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ENTRANCE to SAN

l,oHI)MN..T(ni:i>»!lniK''

ro SAN FRANCISCO BAY

FaceTuie

1 .ON OON , .TnsM lim-x' * (k<tt

CISCO BAY

Face Titie

NORTH PACIFIC PILOT: PART I.

THE

WEST COAST

01^

NORTH AMERICA,

BETWEEN

PANAMA AND QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS*

INCLUDING

PORT SIMPSON AND SITKA SOUND*

JAMES F. IMRAY, F.R.G.8.

TitlAD BSITXOIV.

LONDON, E:

JAMES IMRAY & SON,

OBA&T ANJi NAUTICAL BOOK PCTBLISHfiRS

89 & 102, MINORIES.

1881.

■■■■■■iMM

SIP

\iiiAje Mill

N.B.-North Pacific rUot, Part II., eomprites " The hlandi of the North Paeifib

Ocean ", by W. H. Roster. For list of New CharUfor the Pacific Ocean, Ac,

puhlithed by Ja:ne» Imrdy d- Son, tee end of Book.

*** Communications for the futuhe Impbovehent of tiiib ob any of our Works,
will bb thankfully bkoelved and acknowledueu.

Preface

Since the pablication of the first edition of this Work great and important changes —
both political and commercial — have ooonrred on the western sea-board of the North
American Continent ; not only have vast territories passed into other hands and new
boundaries been determined for various statas, bat the discovery of extensive " gold
bearing " districts, which at first drew thither a large body of immigrants bound for
the "diggings," and who went there merely to search for the precious metals and for
minerals, has finally resulted in the settlement of richly productive agricnltnral tracts;
thus villages have become to\yns, — and towns, cities, — while the formerly unfrequented
harbours and roadsteads have become marts of commerce to which the shipping of all
nations resort, — and so, as regards navigation, calls for better and improved charts^
and sailing directions.

The lack of information which rendered the first edition very incomplete 7an now d6
longer be pleaded. In the interval the dififerent maritime nations have been emulous
in the production of good surveys, and hence what formerly could only be presented to
the Navigator in detached fragments, becomes a connected description of the entire
coast from Panama to Queen Charlotte islands, — not so perfect as a continually
increasing commerce may ultimately demand, but still sufficient for its present 6xigen>
cies. The deficiences will be supplied as opportunity offers, as new ports are opened,
and as the increasing traffic of the older ports improves, — as changes resulting alike
from physical and human causes occur.

the present (third) edition of this Work has been enlarged, revised and corrected
up to date by ]\[r. Iloury D. Joiikins.

J. F. I.

Dec. 1880.-

AUTHORirrES.

The following are some of the publications oonsnlted io the compilation of thi9
Work:—

. South American Pilot. Vol. 2.

Dampier'a Voyages. 4 vols.

Voyages and Travels by Captain Basil Hall, R.N.

Central America; describing the States of Guatemala, Honduras, Salvador, Nica-
ragua and Costa Rica, the natural features, &c., by John Baily, 1850.

Remarks on the Navigation of the coasts between San Francisco and Panama, by
W. H. Parker, P.M.S.S. Co., 1871.

The Isthmus of Tehuantepec : being the results of a survey for a railroad, &c., to
connect the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, by J. J. Williams, principal assistant
engineer.

A voyage round the world in the years 1740-4, comtnanded by Lord Anson. Com-
piled from his papers and materials by Richard Walter.

Travels ifi Mexico by Lient. Hardy, R.N., 1826.

Report of the reconnaissance of the Gulf of California and Colorado river, made in
1850-61. By Lieut. Geo. H. Derby, U.S. Navy.

Remarks of Commander George Dewey, tJ.S.N., on the coasts of Lower California
and Mezioo, 1874.

Reports of the Itnited States Coast Survey, presented to Congress to 1875.

Coast Pilot of California, Oregon, Washington territory. By George Davidson^
ot U.S. Coast Sorvey, 1869.

Coast Pilot of Alaska, Part first, from Southern Botilidary to Cook's Inlet. By
George Davidson, of U.S. Coast Survey, 1869.

Vancouver Island Pilot.

Nautical Magazines to 1880.

Annales hydrographiques to 1880i

. Narrative of an Exploring Expedition to the Atlantic and Pacific Ocean, by Captain
Charles Wilks, U.S. Navy, 5 vols.

AUTHORITIES.

Surreys of portions of the coast of California in the vicinity of San Fraiicisoo bay,
b^ Gommander Oadwalader Ringgold, U.S. Navy, 1852.

Narrative of a voyage round the World performed in H.M.S. Sulphur, during the
years 1886-42, by Captain Sir Edward Belcher, R.N.

Narrative of a voyage to the Pacific performed in H.M.S. Blossom, under the com-
mand of Captain F. W. Beechey, R.N., F.li.S., in the years 1825-28.

Voyage of discovery to the North Pacific Ocean and round the World, performed in
the year 1790-95 by Captain George Vancouver, R.N.

A voyage to the South Atlantic and round Cape Horn into the Pacific Ocean, &c.
By James Colnett, R.N., 1792-4.

Reconnaissance hydrographique des cdtes ocoidentales du Centre Ameriqne, executee
par la corvette La BrilUante, sous le commaudement de M. T. de Lapel>a, 185:2<.

Instructions Nautiques snr les cotes ouest du Centre Amerique et dn Mexiqae,.
redigees d'apres les travaux de M. le Contro-Amiral de Lapelin, &c. Far M. A..
Pailhcs, Lieutenant de vaisseau, 1879.

Renseignements sur le Centre Amerique recueillis pendant le voyage de La Melanie,,
1828', par A. Maire, capitaine an long cours.

Reconnaissance hydrographique des cotes occideutales du Centre Amerique, province
de Veraguas (Nouvelle Grenade) par M. de Rosencoat, capitaine de firegate, com-
mandant L'Obligado, en 1854.

Exploration du territoire de I'Oregon, des Californies et de la mer Vermeille executee
pendant les annees 1840, 1841 et 1842, par M. Duflot do Mofras, attache a la Legation
de France a Mexique.

Voyage autour du monde, sur la fregate Ln Venus, commundee par Abel du Petit-
Thouars. Par C. de Tessan.

Gran Almanaque Mexicano y Directorio del Comercio, 1867.

The Alta California, Almanac and book of facts for 1880.

Tenueut's Nautical Almanac, Tide Register for the Pacific coast and Marine Digest;
^r 1880. Published at San Francisco.

Numerous "Notices to Mariners" and Charts issued by the Governments of the
'Suited States, Great Britain and France.

CONTENTS.

General Reuabks on Gentbal America — '

Guatemala, San Salvador 2 ; Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Kica B ; lakes and
mnustAins 4 ; products 5.

fjlULF OF PaNAhJJA

Cape Conientes 6 ; Cabita bay, Utria, Solano bay 7 ; Cupica bay, Octavia bay,
Pinas bay 8 ; Garachine bay, San Miguel bay 9 ; Darien harbour, Tuyra and
Savana rivers 11 ; Trinidad river, Chiman river, Pelado island 12 ; Chepillo
island, Cbepo river, Panama 13 ; Perico and Flamenco islands, &c 17 ; Taboga
island, Urava, Taboguillo 18 ; Chame bay 19 ; Otoque and Bona islands,
Parita bay, cape Mala, Pearl islands 20 ; winds, currents, &c., in the gulf of
Panama 24 ; passages to and from the gulf 25 — 26.

pAPE MAI4A TO CaPB CoRRIENTES

The Frailes, Montijo bay 27 ; Cebaco and Gobernador islands, Bahia Honda 28 ;
Monita and Bosario bays 29 ; Pueblo Nuevo 80 ; San Lorenzo bay, David bay 82 ;
Boca Chica, Parida island, point Burrica, Coiba island 85 ; Hirrarons, Bancberia,
Contreras 87 ; Secas, Montuosa, Ladrones, gulf of Dalce 88 ; cape Matapalo
89 ; Punta Arcnltas 40 ; Golfito inlet 41 ; ppint Sal-si-pnedes 42 ; point
Llorena, Cano island 48 ; point Mala de los ludios 44 ; point Ubita, point
Quepos, &c. 46 ; port Herradura 46 ; gulf of Nicoya, Punta Arenas 47 ; cape
Blanco 48 and 50; Culebra bay 51 ; Murcielagos islands, Elena bay, Salinas
bay 52 ; San Juan del Sur 68 ; gulf of the Papagayos 54 ; Brito 55 ; Tamarinda,
cape Desolada 56 ; Corinto or Realejo bay. Cordon island 58 ; Corinto 60 ;
Manzana or False Cardon island 61 ; Speck reef. Mesa de Holland, point
Poseguina 62 ; gulf of Fonseca, Estero Real, Playa Grande 63; Amapala point,
La Union 64 ; Farallones, Manguera, &c. 66 ; Amapala 67 ; port Jiquilisco
69 ; river Lempa, Concordia, Libertad 71 ; point Remedios, Acs^utla 78 ;
Istapa 76 ; San Jose 77 ; San Geronimo, Tecojate, San Louis 79 ; Champerico,
Tonala bay, Tehauntepec lagoons 80 ; Yentosa bay 81 ; Salina Cruz 84 ; Saliua
del Marques, Morro Ayuca, Guatulco 85 ; Sacriflcios, port Angeles 91 ; Mal-
donado point 92 ; Dulce river, Acapulco 98 ; Sihuatanejo 97 ; Mamata,
Manzauilla bay 100 ; cape Giaham 108 ; Navidad bay 104 ; Tenacatita bay,
Perula bay 105 ; capo Corrientos 107.

CONTENTS.

▼»•

Capk Cobrientes to Mazatlan —

Band«ras bay, Corralies 107 ; Ylapo barbonr, Penas village 108 ; point Mita,
Tres Marietas, Corventena rock 109; San Bias 110; Isabel island, Maria
islands 115 — 116; Santiago river, Asadero Sstero, Oamichin Estero, Boca
Tecapan, Chamatla river 117 ; Barron river 118 ; Mazatlan 118 — 122.

Gulf of Ca^ifornu —

Gem:! remarks 128 — 126; Piastla river, Elota river, Boca Tavala,
Guliaca.i .iver 127 ; Altata 128 ; Tlaya Colorado 129 ; Boca Navachista,
Topol< bampo, point San Ignacio, San Iguacio Farallone 181 ; Abome river,
.^n abamp^i Sant:\ Barbara bay 132; Claris and Lobos islands 188; Gnaymas
184 ; Ec 'enad^ de San Francisco 136 ; San Pedro point, San Pedro. Nolasco,
San Pediu Martir, Eino bay, Pelican island, Tibnron island 137 ; cape Tepopa,
Patos island, cape Lpbos, cape Tepoca, George island 188 ; Rooky and Sboal
points, port Isabel, Coloraao river 189 ; San Felipe 148 ; Consag rock, San
Lnis island, San Lnie Gonzales bay. Angel de la Gnardia, Puerto Befagio 144 ;
Reinedios bay, Angeles bay, Las Animas bay, Sau linfael bay, San Gabi el
point, San Lorenzo, &c. 145 ; cape San Miguel, Trinidad point, ca£)e Yirgenes
146 ; Sun Marcos island, San Lucas cove, Tortnga island, Santa Agueda point,
Purgatorio 147 ; Santa Inez point, Mulege or Concepcion bay 148 ; Pulpito
point. Mangle point 149 ; Coronados island, Loreto 150 ; Puuta Coyote, Car-
men island, Salinas bay 151 ; Dunzaute island, Sau Marcial point, Santa
Catalina island, Montserrate island, Nopolo point 152; Mechudo bead, San
Josef island, Amort^jada bay, San Francisco iBland, Las Animas, San Diego
island and Santa Cruz islands 153; Espiritu Santo inland, San Lorenzo chan-
nel 154 ; La Paz bay, Pichilinque harbour. La Paz harbour 155 ; Yentaua bay,
Ceralbo island 156; Muertos bay, Palmus bay, Sau Jose del Cabo bay 157;
Palmia point, Cabeza Ballena, cape San Lucas 168; Sau Lucas bfiy 159.

Qape San Lucas to Point Concepcion — •

General remarks 160; La Tiuaja, San Pedro, Todos Santos, Santa Mnrina
bay, Santa Margarita island 161; Magdalena bay 162; cape San Lazaro,
point San Juanico, Ballenas bay 165; Asuncion bay, San Roque point, point
Sn^n Pablo 167; San Pablo bay, San Cristobal bay, San Bartolome, Kelp point
168; point San Eugenio, Cerros island 169; San Benito islands 170; Nativi-
dad island, Dewey channel, Sebastian Yisoaino bay 171 — 174 ; Lagoon head
172; Santa Rosalia bay, Playa Maria bay, Blanco point and bay 174; Sacra-
mento reef, San Geronimo, Rosario bay 175; port San Quentin, San Martin
inland 176; Sau Ramon bay, Colnett bay, Sauto Tomas anchorage (south of
point Soledad), Todos Santos bay and islands 177; Descanso bay, Bouuiiary
Monument (between Mexico and U.S.), Coronados islets 178; point Loma,
Sau Diogo 179; False bay, San Luis Rev 182; San Juan Capistrauo, Auaheim
point Fermin, Sail Pedro 188; Santa Anna lagoon 184; Monica bay, port
Hueuemo, San Buenaventura 185; Santa Barbara 186; point Coucopciou 188.

"TIU.

Tqe Islands of Oalifobnix-

CONTfJNTS,

Cortez bank 190; San CIeinentel91 ; Santa Gaialina, Pandora cove, Baperbay
192 ; Santa Barbara ^island, San Nicolas, Begg rock, Anaoapa 108 ; Santa
Cruz, Anacapa bay 194 ; Santa Rosa, Becber bay 196 ; San Migael, Cuyler
harboar, Ricbardson rock, &c. 196.

Point Concepoion to .Point Reyes —

Point Sal ancborage, San Lnis Obispo bay 197 ; Esteros bay 19S ; San Simeon
bay, Piedras Blancas 199 ; Carmel bay 200 ; point Pinos, Monterey bay 201 ;
Santa Oruz harboar 204 ; Santa Cruz point 205 : Pigeon point, Half-Moon
bay 206 ; point San Pedro 207 ; San Fraucisco bay 208 — 217 ; point Bonita
208; point Lobos, Fort point 209 ; Golden Gate 210 ; Alcatraz island 211 ;
Yerba Boena, Angel island, Saucelito 218 ; San Pablo bay. East Brother and
Mare islands 214 ; Ballenas bay 217 ; Drake bay, point Reyes 218.

The Farallones —

South FaralloP. 219 ; Middle Farallon, North Farsllones 220; Noonday rock 221.

Point Reyes to Cape Classet —

Fort Ross, Haven anchorage, point Arena 224 ; Albion river, Mendocino bay
226 ; Shelter cove 226 ; cape Mendocino 227 ; cape Fortuno (False Mendo-
cino), Eel river, Sugar Loaf or Haystack 228 ; Humboldt bay 229 ; Trinidad
head 280 ; Trinidad bay 281 ; Redding rock, Klamath river, Croscont City bay
282 ; paint St. George, Crescent City rocks. Pelican bay 284 ; Ghet-ko cove,
Mack reef 286 ; Rogues river, Roguc<i River reef, port Orford 286 ; Elk river
287 ; Cape Orford and reef 288 ; Coquille river 2S9 ; cape Arago or Gregory
240; Koos bay 241; Umpquah river 242 ; Hacetahond. capo Perpotna 248 ;
Alseya river, Yaquina river 244 ; Yaquina point 245 ; cape Foulweathur 246 ;
Nekas river, Ooscade head 247 ; capo Lookout, cape Meares 248 ; Tillamook
bay 249 ; Nehalem river 250; cape Falcon or FuIho Tillamook, Tillamook
head 251 ; point Adams, cape Disappointment 252 ; Columbia river 2oSi! — 9 ;
Sand island 255 ; Baker bay. Young bay 256 , Astoria 257 ; Shoalwater bay
259 ; Gray harbour 262 ; Copalis river, point Grenviilo 204 ; Destruction
island 266 ; Flattery rocks 267 ; Tutoosu island 268 ; Duncan and Duutze
ppks, cape Classet (or Flattery) 269.

Strait op Juan ue Fuoa —

General remarks on and directions for tho 8trnit 270 — ; Noo-ah bay 270 ; Cal-
1am bay, Pillar point 278 ; Freshwater bay, port Augolos 279 ; Now Dungoness
bay 281 ; Washington harbour, Protection isluud, port Discovery 288 ; point
Wilson 285 ; Kan Juan bay 286 ; Sooko inlet, Secretary island, Beohor bay
B88 ; boutiuok island, Race islands 289; Podder bay, Parry bay 200 ; Esqui-

CONTENTS.

malt harbour 291 ; Victoria harbonr 292 ; Brotchy ledgo 294 ; Trial islands,
Enterprize channel 295 ; Gonzales point, Oak bay, Cadboro bay, Mayor
channel 296 ; Chain islets, Discorery and Chatham islands, Hecate and
Plnmper passages 297 ; Baignes channel 298 ; Cot^atance and Foute banks 299.

Adihbalty Inlet, Puget Sound, and Hood Canal —

Smith island 299 ; Admiralty inlet 800 — 7 ; Wilson point, port Townohend 801 ;
Admiralty head 802 ; point No-point, ports Madison and Orchard 804 ;
Dnwamish bay 805 ; Commencement bay, the Narrows, Puget sound 807 }
Steilacoom, Nisqnally, Olympia 808 ; Hood canal, port Ladlow, port Gamble
809 ; additional remarks on Puget sound 811.

F0SBRS910N Sound and Anohobaoes —

Whidbey island, Fidalgo island, Deception passage 812 ; Possession sound,
port Susan, port Gardiner, P^n cove 813 ; Vancouver's remarks on Peni^
cove 814.

Habo OB San Juan Archipelago —

Boundary line (of British and AjMeWcnn territory), Haro strait 815 ; Rosaria
strait 817 ; Alden bank, general remarks on currents, &c. 821.

Gulf op Georgia — E*8tehn side to Burhard inlet —

Bcllingham bay 822 ; Birch bay, Drayton harbour, Semi-ah-Moo bay, point.
Bioberts 828 ; Fraser river 824 ; New Westminster 820 ; Derby or New
Laagley, North Fork, Burrard inlet 827 ; point Atkinson 828.

South-west Coast of Vancouver Island —

General remarks on Vancouver island 328 — 834 : capo Beale 384 ; Barclay
sound 885 ; Clayoquot sound 887 : Refuge cove, Ilosquint harbouf 839 ;
Nootkft sound 840 ; Friendly cove, Marvinas bay 341 ; Plumjwr harbour,
Resolution cove, Deserted creek, Head bay 842 ; Nuchatlitz inlet, Esperanza
inlot 844 ; Kyuquot sound 847 ; Barrier islands;, Ou-ou-kiush and Nasparti
inlets 348 ; Brooks peninsula, cape Cook, Brooks bay 849 ; Quntsino sound
850 : Forward inlot, Koprino harbour 862 ; San Josef bay, Sei^ Otter cove,^
cape Hcott 856 ; Scott islands 850.

Coast of British OoxjfMitiA north of Vancouver Island —

Quoon Charlotte sound, Shadwoll jmssngo, Piiin and Storm islands 857 ; Scaled
passage, capo Caution, Smi Otter group 868 ; Blunden bay, Iron rocks, Egg
island and rooks, Sniitli souud IKU) ; Alexandra passage, Boavev passage, Tublo

CONTENTS.

island, &e. 861 ; Long point, Barriflr islands, Takcsh harbonr 862 ; Smith
inlet, FitzHngh sonnd, Crt^nstown point 868 ; cape Calvert, Schooner Retreat,
Joachin island. Frigate bay 864 ; Safety cove 865 ; Kwakshna passage. Gold-
stream l^arbonr, Namn harbour, 866 ; Burke ehapnel, port John, Lama passage
867 ; Cooper inlet, McLaughlin bay 868 ; Bella Bella islands, Klick-tso-atli
harbour, Ea-Eoosh-dish creek. Gunboat passage, Seaforth channel, Eynumpt
harbour 869; Millbank sonnd and Finlayson channel 870 ; Carter bay, Graham
and Fraser reaches, Home bay, Grenville channel ^71 ; Stewart harbour, port
Simpson 872 ; Dixon soqn4 878.

QoEEN Chablottb Isiands—

General remarks 878 — 7 ; cape St. James, Houston Stewart channel 877 ; Rose
harbour, Cumshewas harbour, Skidegate harbour and channel 878 ; Masset
harbour. Virago sound 880 ; Parry passage 881 ; Hippa island, Inskip channel,
Moore channel 882 ; Mitchell and Gold harbour, Douglas harbour, Tasso
harbour 888 \ geographical positions 884.

^^BRiTORT OF Alaska —

General remarks 884—8 ; Fort Tongas, Wrangle 888 ; Sitka sound 388—897 ;
Biorka island, Symonds bay 898 ; Vitskari island, Eulitch rock, Zenobia rock,
Mokuatoi island 894 ; Eckholm island, Pritchard shoals, &o., Eeene rock,
Whiting harbour, Jamestown bay 895 ; Survey group 896 ; changes in names
of principt^l islands ip Sitka sqund 897.

laLANDS AND IloCKS OFF THE COASTS OF CeNTRAI, AMERICA AND CALIFORNIA —

Cocos island 898 ; Chatham bay, Wafer bay 400 ; Malpelo island, Clipperton
rock 401 ; Revillagigedo islands, Socorro 408 ; San Beqedioto island, Roca
Partida 404 ; Clarion, Al^os rooks, Guadalpupe 406 ; Reed rocks or Falmouth
shoal 406.

APPENDIX.

Winds on the Western Coast of America anp in the Pacific
General ReivrARKB on Passages to variotis Ports, &o.

PaSSAOES to and from VARIOtlH PoRTS I?» THE PacIFIO

Bm: E'ranciroo Harbour Reoulationh, &c., &o.
Reuulatiuns for phkventinu Collisions at Sea
Tide Tables ... ... ... ... ...

TaRLEH Of GeOURAPUIOAL POUITIUNS ... ...

407—418
418—428
428— 48U
480—487
4{ . -441
442—444
445—458

PONTENTS.

XI.

U^T OF PLATES,

San Francisco Bay

Panama Road

Libertad

Port Cuiebra

Salina Cruz Road...

San Jose Road ...

Maldonado, ...

Mazatlan •••

Salinas Baj^

San Lorenzo Cbannol

San Jose del Cabo

San Lucas Bay ...

Magdalena Bay ...

Ensenada Anchorage

Santo Tomas Anchorage

Point Sal Anchorage

San Pedro Anohorftge

Santa Barbara

Cortez Bank

p-'^-'^r Bay, &c. ...

Monterey Bay

Half-Moon Bay ...

Bodega, Somalea and Drake Bays

Mendocino Bay ...

Trinidad Bay

Crescent City

Chetko Coyo

Mack Reof

Cape Orford

Sacramouto Roof ...

Hunter Covo

Socorro Island and Braithwaite Bay

Guadaloupe Island

Alijos Rocks

Boca Partidtt

To/ac€ Title.,
„ paije 16

.. 71

:::t

77^

118

151

154

157

169

162

177

188

180

190,

192

201

206 V

222-^

225.

281

28^

285

280.

288

240

408

406

LIGHTS,

The following is a complete list of the Lights shown at this date, December lat.
1880, within the limits of the Navigation described in this work. As a AUl description
of them is given in the pages mentioned, it is unnecessary to add more detailed par-
ticulars ; —

Panama

Punts^ Arenas . . .
Port Corinto (Realejo.)
Port La Union . .
Libertad ....
Act^utla or Sonsonate

^an Jose de ClnatemaH
MazatUn ....

Ban Diego ....
Point Fermiu . . ^

Point Huencme , ^
Santa Barbara . ,
Conccpcion Point . .

Pledras Blancas Point
Montoroy Bay • . .
8auta Cruz ....
Pigeon Point . . .

Ano Nuevo Island ,
Montara Point . . .
^an Francisco Buy

PAOB.

A small ^;re(2 reJ light, on end of railway pier . 16
A small fiaxd white light, on San Jose rock

(occasionally) 18

A small ,^:ir«(; light 47

On Cardon island. Fixed; visible 15 miles . . 59-

Fixed: visible 8 miles 66

FLved; visible 7 milea ........ 71

Fijced {red to southward, green to northward and

white between) ; visible 7 miles. . . . , 74

On custom-house. Fijced; visible 10 miles.

Doubtful 7^

On Creston island. Fured; visiblp 20 miles {See

addenda) lia-

On point Loma. Fi^-ed; visible 26 miles . . 1,79
FhsJies {red and white) every 10 seconds; visi-
ble 19 miles . 188

F{.r^ and ^n«/(ni«/,- visible 12 ipilua ...... 1^5

Fixed; visible 17 miles 1,86.

Berqlrcs every half minute; visible 28 miles.

Steam fog-whistlo \%%

Fixed (flaah every 16 seconds); visible 10 miles 109

On point Pinos. Fixed; visible 16 miles . . 201

Fixed ; visible 14 njiles 206

FUiithei every 10 seconds ; visible 18 miles.

Fog-whistle ,206

Fog- whistle 206

Fog-wliistio 207

On point Bonita. Fixed ; visible 18 miles. Fog-
trumpet 208

On Fort Point. Fixiui (with red flashes) ; visible

16 miles. Fog-bell 210.

Alcatra/. isluud. /'V.m/ ,- visible 1 1 miles. Fug-b«ll 21\

LIGHTS.

San Francisco Bay

»>

Point Bdyea -,

South Farallon
Point Arena
Cape Mendocino

Hamboldt Bay . . .
Trinidad Head ; . .
Crescent City . . .
Cape Orford (Blanco)
Cape Arago (Gregory)
Yaquina Point (Head)
Tillamook Bock . ^
Columbia River . .

Bhoalwater Bay ^ . -,

Cape Classet (Flattery) i

Ediz Hook . . . . .
New Diingeuess . i .
Point Wilson ....
Race Islands ....

Esquimalt Harbour . .

Victoria Harbour
Smith Island .
Admiralty Head
Point No-Point
Eraser River «
Burrard Inlet .

lITanaimo Harbour
Cape Beale. »

PAGE.

Yerba Buena. Fixed; visible 15 miles. Fog-
whistle 218

On E. Brother island. Flashes every 80 seconds ;

visible 18 miles. Fog-trumpet .... 214
On Mare island. Fur^e^ ; visible 14 miles. Fog-bell 214
Flashes, every 5 seconds ; visible 14 miles. Fog-
whistle .219

Flashes every minute ; visible 26 tuiles. Fog-siren 220

Fixed; visible 19 miles. Fog-whistle . . . 224
Revolves (flash 15 seconds, eclipse 15 seconds) ;

visible 27 miles 228

Fixed; visible 12 miles. Fog- whistle . . . 229

Fixed [flash red every minute) ; visible 17 miles 281

Fixed {flash every 1^ minutes); visible l5 miles 2B8

Fixed; visible 28 miles ...*.;.. 288

Fixdd {flash every 2 minutes); visible 15 miles . 240

Fixed; visible 19 miles. {See Addenda) . . 245

Light intended 251

On point Adams. Flashes (red and white j ;

visible 16 miles; Fog- whistle . . . . ; 252

On cape Disappointment. Fixed; visible 22

miles. Fog-bell ........ i 258

On Toke point. Fixed {flash every 2 minutes) j

visible 14 miles ......... 260

On Tatoosh island. Fixed, visible 20 miles.

Steam fog-whistle 268

Fixed; visible 12 miles . 280

Fixid; visible 14 miles. Steam fog-whistle . 282

Fixed; visible 12 miles. Steam fog-whistle . 285
Flashes every 10 seconds ; visible 18 miles.

Fog-bell 290

On Fisgard island. Fixed {white and red sectors) ;

visible 10 miles 291

On Berens island. A small blue light . . . 298

Revolves every half-minute ; visible 15 miles . . 299

Fixed ; visible 17 miles 803

Fixed; visible 10 miles 804

Lightvessel at onti'aL'^e. Fixed; visible 11 miles 824
On point Atkinson. Revolves every minute ; visible

15 miles 828

On Entrance island. Fixed ; visible 14 miles . 881

Revolves every 80 sooonds ; visible 19 miles . . 834

ADDENDA;

During the progress of this Work through the press the ToUbwibg corrections aiid
ia'dditions became necessary : —

ixon. — The population of the city of Leon is about 85,000 not 8500 as given in
text. Page 60.

^jk linxoti. — The lighi at Lia Union, San Salvador, is located on the end of the
wharf, and not on the Comtnandaut's house. Page 05.

jiaxAPAXiA. —A white bn6y how guards the shoal situated 4 cables north-west of t)ie
borth-west point of Tigre inland. Page 68.

jBMPA bboal. — The following information relating to a shoal on tliis coast ot
Salvador, known as Lempa shoal, and considered doubtful as regards its position, has
been received by the U.S. Hydrographic' Office from Commander J. W. Philip, U.S.N.,
commanding U.S.S. Tuscaroru, (1880) : —

This shoal (centre) lies in lat. 13° 7' and long. 88° 80'*, and forms a bar off the
mouth of Jigdlisco bay. It extends in the form of a horse-shoe across the mouth of
the ba^, from side to side, and its outei: edge or bend lies about 4 miles from the
beach. At high water in calm weather, or with light hreezc's, the bar is perfectly
Smooth, but at all other tidies the sea breaks heavily all over the shoal.

The following bearings were taken from the Tuscarora just outside the breakers : —
San Mlgud voltfano N. 28" E. ; San Vincente volcano N. 48° W. ; San Salvador
Volcano N. 56° W. Pilge '69.

KA2ATXUkN. — A lighthouse has recently been ei'ccted on Ureston island at the
«htrance to the bay of Mazatlan ; it exhibits n fixed white light, visible 20 miles. Its
approximate geographical position is lat. 23" 10' 36", long'. 100°'27'. Page 118.

AMO MVBiro i8i:.Aito. — The fog-siguul at Ano Nuovo island, in lat. 37° 0' 42",
long. 122° 10' 61" has been altered in character. In future it will give a blast of
10 seconds duration, followed by an interval of 65 seconds. Page 206.

•OUYB FABAl^LON. — A steam-siren has been established at a station about 200
yards S. 81° E. from the lighthouse on South Farallon. During fog it will be sounded
for 6 seconds at I'ntevvals of 46 seconds. Piige 220.

TiBiBBK ovtibH. — Gommtinder W. Coffin, U.B.S. TJassIer, reports a dangerous
patch of foul ground off the entrance of Timber gulch, 2^ miles E'.S.E. effort Boss,
California.

The patch lies irtim One-half to three-quarters of a mile from the shore, and contains

*' AflohrdiViR to this InnKitudo nf tho shoal, lliu Appniximuto positit^n uf Port JlgafliBoo gitou iu text
ii about I'i niiinitoB too far oast.

ADDENDA.

several rocky heads — one nearly awash at low water, others with from 8 to 15 feet
water, with 4 tb 6 &thoms between them, and 9 fathoms close at hand, ontside. At
the tinle of thte survtey, October 1879, kelp, extending out from the shore, covered the
#dstiammost half of the patch; tt is not often these rocks are marked by breakers^
their i&rea being small.

Thirty fathoms of water are occasionally found in this vicinity within half a Diile of
the rooks, and it is dangerous for vessels coasting to pass inside that depth. Page 228.

TAiQViirA POZMT. — The latitude of Yaquina poiiit lighthouse given in t^xt is
incorrect ; accdrding to the latest U.3. List of Lights it should be 44° 48' 80".
Page 246.

OOZiirasBZA xrvxH.-— The following information as to the state of the Coliinibia
iriver bar is fikmished by Lloyd's Agents at Portland, Oi'egon, under date April 29th
1880, in consequence of a report having got abroad that the bar is shoaling : — There
ai'e always ^6 feet at high water at this time, upon the shoalest parts of the bar of the
Bouth channel ; and the bar being smooth, a vessel drawing 22^ feet Can cross out:
This ohanilidl has been shoaling a little ; but these shoal areas, arising frdm sand lui{ipi^
of recent deposit, must wash out in the month of June, when the Columbia river will be
much swolleti, or a nei^ opening must be formed, somewhat to the northwatd and west-
ward of the piresent outlet. It is in consequence of this shoaling tha^ the North channel
has been used more, pilots preferring to cross in smooth water the shoal eastward of
B&nd island rather than cross the more exposed parts at the entrance of the South
channel. Thd South channel is crooked, and a vessel is much longer iil going out
than by the North channel.

In the inside of the North channel there are always 22 feet at high water in the
shoalest parts across the shoal east of Sand island, but during spring tides this depth
is increased to from 22^- feet to 28 feet. To the north-eastward of this shoal to capei
Disappointnienti following the line of the channel, there are from 26 feet to 28 feet.
Farther seaward, along this channel, the water deepens rapidly to from 80 to 85 feeti
nntil the bar proper is crossed.

Note. — The latitudes of the lighthouses on point Adams and cape Disappointment
giten in text are uncertain: according to the latest (1880) U.S. List of Lights the
lat. of point Adams lighthouse is 46° 11' 86" and of oape Disappointment lighthouse
46° 16' 88". Page 258.

1ISQVZBIAZ.T BABBOvm.— Thetis cottage, one of the objects forming the leading
fai&rk for entering Esquimalt harbour, has been demolished during recent heavy falls of
toow. As a substitute a wooden beacon has been erected on Dyke point ; it is 281
feet above high water, pyramidal in shape and painted white.

Note. — Dyke point beacon just open of, or in line with, the Western Inskip rock^
bearing K. by W. j> W>t leads in mid-channel to Esquimalt harbour< Page 291<

l)eoember Ist, I88O1

U.P BUOYAGE*

tn cohibirtaiity to the terms of the Adt of Congi'ess apjiroved SepteiUber 28th, 1850,
prescribing the manner of colouring land numbering the buoys along the coasts and in
the bays, sounds, rivers, and harbours of the United States, the following order must
te observed, viz, : —

1. in approaching the channel, Sb6., from seaward, red buoys, with even numbers,
will be ^oOnd on the starboard side of the channel, and must be left on the sMrboard
hand in passing in.

2« Itt approaching the channelj &c., from seaward, black buoys, with odd numbira,
will be found on the port side of the channel, and must be left on the pon hand in
passing im

8. Buoys painted with red and black horizontal stripes will be found on obstruc-
tions, with channel ways on either side of them, and may be left on either side in
passing in^

4. Buoys painted with whit* and black perpendicular stripes will be found in mid-
ahannel, and must be passed olose-to, to avoid danger.

5. All other distinguishing marks to buoys will be in addition to the foregoing,
and may be employed to mark particular spots.

6. Perches, with balls, cages, Sic., will, when placed on buoys, be at turning points,
the Dolour and number indicating on what side they shall be passed.

SAILING DIRECTIONS

FOB THE

WEST COAST

NORTH AMERICA

*** The Bearings and Courses throughout this Work are Magnetic. The Depths

are those at low water spring tides. The Distances are in Nautical miles of 60 to a

Degree of Latitude. The Nautical Mile is about 6086 English feet, ustially reckoned as

6000 = 2000 yards=1000 fathoms: also the Nautical Mile=1855 metres=V855

kilometres.

N.B.—ka the Latitades in this work are North of the Equator, and the Longitudes are West of
Greenwich, the distinctive letters N. and W. are smitted.

GENERAL REMARKS ON CENTRAL AMERICA.

Central America inclades all the territory lying between Mexico on the north, and
the isthmap of Panama, on the south. In length 700 miles, and of very variable
breadth, it nevertheless contains 164,900 English square miles. It has a population
of about 2,600,000, about a quarter of whom are whites (creoles of European parentage),
the remainder Indians and Mestizoes, of mixed descent. Situated in the torrid
zone, between latitudes 8° and 18°, longitudes 81^° and 93°, it <>^ once separates the
Atlantic from the Pacific ocean, and unites the continents of North and South America ;
a position as important commercially, as it is geographically remarkable and unique.

It includes the independent states of Guatemala, San Salvador, Honduras,
Nicaragua,* and Costa Rica, with the British colony of Belize, or British Honduras.
It is bounded on the north by Mexico ; on the south-west by the Pacific ; and on the
east by the Caribbean sea, and the bay of Honduras.

* The Mosquito territory, formerly under Britisli protection, is now included in the state of
Nicaragua.

2 CENTRAL AMERICA.

The five states of Central America nearly correspond, at the present time, with the
" Intendencias," as they existed under Spanish Colonial rale. Their boundaries are
pretty clearly defined, and vary but little. They are subdivided into departments, and
districts ; the latter applying to the less peopled, though often extensive tracts, covered
with almost impenetrable forests.

Th« state of onatemaia includes a considerable and populous highland district to
the south and west, while to the northward, vast territories, such as those of Yera Paz
and El Peten, are but thinly inhabited. It has the largest population (nearly
1,200,000), and fiur sorpasses the other states in importance. Its trade, which is con-
siderable, ia almost entirely confined to its port in the gulf of Honduras on the Atlantic
side. The principal port on the Pacific coast is San Jose de Guatemala, which
is an open roadstead of some importance. The exports are numerous, consisting
chiefly of cotton, wheat, cocoa, sugar, cofiee, indigo, metals, mahogany, and cochineal.
In 1678 the imports amounted to £619,000, and the exports to £900,000. Great
efforts are being made to improve the agricultural resources of the country, which are
naturally wonderfully rich, yet the wheat crop of 1878 failed, and the Government
was forced to reduce the duty on imported grain by one-half. Coffee cultivation is
being largely extended, and liberal terms are offered to immigrants to settle in the
country and introduce permanent improvements in the way of irrigation works, roads,
ice. Attempts are being made to open the oil deposits on the Atlantic coast in the
neighbourhood of the Lampara and St. Vincent rivers.

New Guatemala, the capital, is in lat. 14° 41', long. 90° 86' ; the old city was
abandoned on account of earthquakes. New Guatemala, though a comparatively mean
looking place of one storied houses, may on many accounts be considered as the prin-
cipal town in Central America. It is situated on the border of one of the elevated
plateaux of the main Cordillera, known as Los Llanos de las Vacas, (the valley of
Harmita). This plain is surrounded by bold ranges of mountains, among which stand
prominent the two lofty volcanoes of Ar/ua and Fuego, and a third known as El Volcan
de Pacaya, ^hich is scarcely, if at all, inferior to them. The plain is about 6000 feet
above the level of the sea, and is 15 miles wide and 18 broad. The climate, though
considered inferior to that of Antigua or old Guatemala, is mild and salubrious. The
thermometer rarely rises above 70° Fahr., and still more rarely descends below 64°.
The number of inhabitants, who are chiefly Ladinos, the mixed or Mestizo race, and
pure Creole Spaniards, the unmixed descendants of Spanish colonists, is estimated at
40,000 ; and in importance and wealth, it is second, in Spanish America, only to the
city of Mexico.

Tb* State of San Salvador is situated on the western coast. Its climate is hot, but
more healthy than that on the eastern shores — perhaps because the land is better
cleared and cultivated. The chief products of this state are indigo, coffee, sugar, and
tobacco. The city of San Salvador, 'ts capital, only a few miles distant from the
Pacific ocean, was nearly destroyed by an earthquake in 1854, prior to which it con-
tained 20,000 inhabitants ; but it is now reviving ; daring a short period it was the
seat of the Federal Union, and like Washingtoti, it had at that time a certain territory
around the city, distinguished as the Federal District. Cojjatepeqae is an important

III

CENTRAL AMERICA.

town with 15,000 inhabitants, and Sonsonate with 10,000 inhabitants is famous foritd
distilleries. The principal seaports are La Union, Acajatia, and Libertad ; the first
named is a fine harbour, but the others are mere open roadsteads. In 1876 the
imports amounted to £721,005, and the exports to £873,817.

Tta* Stats of Bondnras takes its name from the bay of Honduras, (signifying depths),
which forms its northern boundary. The first navigators so denominated it, because
they with difficulty obtained soundings in it. The surface of the ground is, in this
state, even more generally uneven than elsewhere. Its population is scanty in com-
parison with the two former states ; and, like Guatemala, it still comprises vast
districts of virgin forests, partially peopled by Indians. The climate, like that of the
other states, is varied, being generally temperate in the interior, which is notable for
its mines, — and hot near the coasts, which abound with rivers, from the banks of which
much pahogany and sarsapunlla are obtained. Comayagua (formerly Yalladolid), the
capital, is a city of some importance, with 8,000 inhabitants. This state possesses two
sea-ports, Truxillo and Omoa, which were active as military and commercial depots of
Spain, but are now fallen into comparative decay. Tegucigalpa has gold, silver and
copper mines in its vicinity.

Vh« stmt* of NioaraBna is exceedingly fertile, and generally salubrious ; but, not-
withstanding its possessing several advantages over Honduras, it is but little more
populous. This may partly be accounted for by the absence of any leading branch of
ilidnstry, or any considerable activity in its commerce, but still more by its frequent
civil wars. In a land surpassingly volcanic, this state is pre-eminently so. Managua,
possessing a population var'^'^sly stated between 6,000 and 12,000, is the present
(1878) capital and seat of liovernment ; but Leon, the former capital, with an esti'
mated population of 25,000, is the largest city. These large cities once enjoyed great
Wealth and commercial prosperity ; but, like all chief towns in Central America, they
have suffered much from crime and consequent internal disorganization, as well as from
civil wars, political commotions and misrule. They are now in consequence little
better than ruins, scantily inhabited, and, where best, affording abundant evidence of
both earlier and more recent devastations. Leon, between lake Managua and the
Pacific, is said to have contained at one time 82,000 people. Granada, one of the
oldest cities in Central America, has about 10,000 inhabitants ; it is beautifully situ-
ated on the north-west shore of the lake Nicaragua. Tho town of Nicaragua, about 86
miles south-oast of Granada, though inferior in size and importance, gives its name to
the state and the lake. Like Granada, it is advantageously situated on its banks,
opposite the populous island of Ometcpee, which is in the lake, and contains an active
volcano. Great interest at present attaches to this state and its waters, in connection
with the long formed and often talked-of project of connectiug the Atlantic and Pacific
oceans at this point.

oosta Blea, the Central America state which at present enjoys the greatest degree
of tranquility and political pi'ospority, lies to tho southward of Nicarngua. Its isolated
position on the nai-rower part of tho isthmus of Piinaina, making communication with
tho other'states difficult^, has preserved it in a great measure from participating in the
wars that have desolated the rest of the country ; a circumstance which, conjointly

CENTRAL AMERICA.

with a great aceesaion of commercial vigonr, arising oat of the snccessfal cnltiTation of
coffee, has givep it of late an impluse anknown to the sister states. It also yields gold,
silver, tobacco, sarsaparilla, indigo, sugar, cocoa, and dye-woods, &c. While other
large cities have been decaying, San Jose, its new capital, has risen into importance
.within a very few years, and already numbers upwards of 30,000 inhabitants. Cartage,
the former capital, and two other towns of some magnitude (Heredia and Alajuela)
occupy with the modem capital, an extensive table-land stretching almost across the
isthmus. These towns, together with two or three small ports on each ocean, include
almost the entire population (150,000) of this compact and thriving state.

XAkM. — The principal lake in Central America is that of Nicaragua, whose surplus
waters descend to the Atlantic by the river San Juan del Norte. It is an inland sea 90
miles long N.W. to S.E., and about 40 miles broad. In many places the water is 10
to 16 fathoms deep, and it is stated that there are but few shallows. It contains a
small archipelago of islands, and on one fertile and populous island, named Ometepee,
there is a volcano. This lake is also connected with that called Managua, itself no
inconsiderable body of water. The shores of these magnificent lake<- which are likely
to afford important facilities for commerce, are of surpassing fertility, and as salubrious
.as they are beautiful. It is from the lake of Nicaragua that the canal is proposed to be
cat, connecting the lake with the port of San Juan del Snr, on the Pacific.

MonntaiH*. — Not far from the western or Pacific coast, the country is traversed from
north-west to south-east by a continuous Cordillera or unbroken chain of mountains,
unbroken at least as far as the lake of Nicaragua, which are covered with diversified
vegetation. This forms a kind of connecting chain between the rocky mountains of
. the North, and the Andes of the South American continent. Some of the loftiest sum-
mits are 12,000 feet high. Frequent spurs or offsets from the "Sierra Madre," the
main ridge, intersect the plains at right angles, and sometimes extend to the sea shore.
At various degrees of elevation along the sides and on the summits of the mountains
are numerous plateaux or table-lands, like so many natural terraces, some of them of
great extent, and all delightfully temperate and luxuriantly fertile. These regi'jiis
especially seem to invite the residence of man, and to invite the culture of his hand.
They constitute a distbguishing feature of this and some neighbouring countries. Bat
none of these countries, and probably no part of the earth, presents a greater diversity
of level on a snr&ce of equal extent than does Central America ; consequently, no
coantry possesses such variety of climate, or offers such facilities of adaptation to all kinds
of productions and to all constitutions of men, from the sun-burnt inhabitants of a
tropical plain, to the hardy mountaineer inured to perpetual snows.

Most of the highest peaks and isolated mountains are volcanoes. The rooks are of
granite, gneiss, and basalt ; but volcanic formatious and ejections predominate. Not
less than thirty volcanic vents ai'e said to be still in activity. The traces of remote, as
well as recent earthquakes, are clearly di'^cernible in the fissures and ravines that
everywhere abound. Extinct craters, rent rocks, beds of lara, scoriot, vitrified, charred,
and pumice stones, tog<)tbcr with hot and sulphureous springs, all mark it as the most
volcanic region known. Indeed, shocks of earthquakes, generally slight, are periodically
felt at the opening and closing of the wet season.

CENTRAL AMERICA.

' prodttets. — The productions of Central America are nameroas. Abundant materiala
for exchange with other nations are afforded in cotton, coffee, sngar-cane, arrow-root,
ginger, tobacco, and even silk Tvorms, though but lately imported ; but especially in
" anil " (indigo), and " grana " (cochineal), which, becaase most lucrative, absorb
almost all the attention of the planter. Other mai'ketable productions are not wanting;
but both known and unknown sources of w<>?.lth decay in the forests, or lie hidden beneath
the soil. Besides these, the more temperate regions yield all, or nearly all, the pro-
ductions which are raised in Europe. Wheat and barley are cultivated sometimes by
the side of the sugar-cane, on the elevated plains ; and the markets of the larger towns
are supplied at once with the productions of torrid and of temperate climes ; so that,,
at <M seasons, the green pear, tho cauliflower, and oos-lettnce, are sold along with the
avocato-pear, olive, capsicum, or chillies, and many other productions of opposite climates,
less delicate, perhaps, bat more common and useful. Ofadiblefruits, those most common
are the banana, pinft-epple, orange, sweet lemon, lime, shaddock, water-melon, musk-
melon, sapote, mango, guava, fig, tamarind, pomegranate, granadilla (fruit of the passion
flower), sea-grape, papia, mammae, star and custard-apples, cocoa, cashew, ani ground
huts. There are said to be in all " more than forty genera," including probably, those
introduced from Europe, such as the apple, the pear, quince, cherry, &c., which, though
they are found to thrive, are little appreciated, and none of any sort can be said to be
■ cultivated with care. The same remark applies, though with frequent exceptions, to garden
flowers, which are still more varied.

It has been well observed, that " the precious metals of Cmtral America, together
with quicksilver, copper, lead, iron, talc, litharge, and most other minerals that are in
nse, only await the labour and ingenuity of man to extract them from the earth, and
convert them into objects of convenience and beauty ; and seams of coal, ochre, gypsum,
sal-ammoniac, and wells of naptha, are also ready to yield^their valuable stores. Jasper,
opal, and other precious stones are also found ; and pearl fisheries have long existed
upon the coasts. In fine, there is no lack of anything tb;;:t nature can bestow to sustain,
to satisfy, and to delight. So abundant are the necessaries of life that none need want ;
80 profuse are the bounties of nature that tbuy are suffered to decay through neglect.

Lying between the parallels of 10° to 18°, and almost insular as to any influence of the
continent on its temperature, tbo climate of the coasts and lowlands is hot and humid.
That of the interior varibs with the altitude, and is generally mild, equable, and salub-
rious. The two seasons aptly designated the ' wet ' and the ' dry, ' are well defined. They
may be said equally to divide the year, though they vary considerably in different
districts. The rains, everywhere copious, are more continuous in some parts, and the
drought is more severe in others, but the dry season is occasionally interrupted by
refreshing showers, and the wet is everywhere relieved by an interval of dry
weather.

In the highlands of the interior, the seasons are singularly regular. The dry
weather commences about the close of October, and terminates on the 12th or 18th of
May, rarely varying even a few hours. It is most frequently on the 12th that the
rainy season commences. Tho sky in then suddenly obscured with thick clouds,
which burst simuUaneoasiy. oftim accompanied with thunder, and sometimes with

CENTRAL AMERICA.

hail. This is confined to the afternoon, and retnrns on the following days, or
perhaps for snccessive ^^eeks at the same hoar, or a little later. Daring the whole of
the wet season, which is by far the most agreeable, the forenoon is almost invariabl;
cloudless, and the atmosphere clear, elastic, and balmy. The rains ore often
confined to the evening and night, or to the night hours only. Daring the dry
season, tb9 mornings and evenings are often so cool and bracing as to predispose to
active exercise, though fires are never resorted to. Through the day the sky i«
seldom obscured, and light clouds only are to be seen sweeping rapidly along th9
plains (luiing the short twilight that ushers in the equinoctial day, tbenoe they rise
and hang in clusters round the tops of the mountains till the sun has gathered strength
to dispel them; in the evening they return to atteud its setting, and add inimitablo
beauty to the scene. At all seasons the entire disc of the moon is distinctly visiblo
through all its phases, but now it shines with such uni"' arrupted clearness, as entirely
to supersede, when above the horizon, the necessity of artificially lighting the streets;
and even in its absence, the brilliancy of the stars dispels all gloom. In soma
districts on the < astern coasts, through local influence, it rains more or leas all the
year; whioti, however, adapts them for the growth of certain vegetable prodaotions ;
while thfa districts where the dry weather lasts the longest are alone suitable for the
cultivation of others. On the moie elevated plains, such as those of QuesaltenangOi
iu the department of Los Altos, the heat is never so great as during the sanunor
months in England ; and though snow is said socuetimes to fall in December and
January, it immediately dissolved, and the thermometer n«ver desoet^ds >o low as
freezing point,"

GULF OF PANAMA.

Variation nhnut Gi" E. in 1879. There is little, if any, rimninl chantfe.

The Boathem limits of the gulf of Panama are usually oonsidorod to be point Gara*
chine and capo Mala. The coast immediately south of the gulf is not properly
included within the limits of the present work, but as many Hliip-masters using it, may
make the gulf from southward, it is advisable to commence our description of the coast
with cape Corrientos, Now Granada.

OAva OOBRIBNTIIS, the south-west extremity of which is in lat. 6° 28' 40", long.
77° 82' 88", may bo easily known by the domo-like peaks of Anana, about 1500 feet
high, which rise directly over it ; this is the first high land north of Monte Ghristo (in
lat. 1° 8' 40", long, 80° 40') and generally makes like nn island from southward. It
is densely wooded from the summit to high water mark, and the almost constant rains
give a bright grcon colour to the peaks. At about 8 miles northward of the oapo ii

UTRIA; CABITA AND SOLAIIO BAYS.

Alnsea point, the northern extreme of the promontory. The water off this projecting
point of lapd is deep, 60 fathoms being found close to the rocks, and 100 at a distance
of less than 8 miles. In the vicinity of the cape the current appears to set constantly
northward.

cablta Bay. — On the south side of cape Corrientes is Gabiti. bay, situated eastward
of a high rocky point, distant about 8 miles from the cape ; although open to south-
ward, there is here good anchorage, with a capital watering place. Vessels may
lie in 18 &thoms at about throe-quarters of a mile from the stream in the bight of the
bay, with the we'-'^ern horu bearing S.W. by W. At about 6 miles south-eastward
from the watering-place is the mouth of the river Jeya, southward of which is a remark-
able perforated rock named Iglcsia (or Church) de Sevira. On the eastern side of
the bay the high bold land suddenly terminates, and a beach, with low river land
commences, extending, with the exception of the cliffs north of the river Buenaventura
«■ (in lat. 8° 49') and that of Cascajal point, as far south as the river Esmeralda, a
distance of 400 miles.

The coast from Alusea point northward trends eastward 14 miles to the river
Nnki, a small mountain stream ; the shore between consists alternately of bluffs and
sandy beaches, with a few rivulets. At about 8 miles N.N.W. from the river Nuki is
a cluster of high rocks, facing, at the distance of 2 miles, the liver Ghim, another
mountain stream ; and 8 miles northward of these rocks is the Morro Ghieo, a pinnacle
of a similar nature. From these rocks the coast runs in the same direction, high,
rugged, and woody, nearly 8 miles to port Utria.

vtria. — This harbour is about 8 miles long in a noi'therly direction by half a mile
broad, and has an average depth of 12 fathoins. .Tt is formed on the east side by a
lofty but narrow persinsula, which has two islets and some detached rocks off its south
point. The entrance is south-eastward of these ; it has no hidden dangers, the shores
being steep. The eastern side consists of a sandy boach, which runs out to a spit
2^ miles within the entrance ; at this point tho harbour is only a quarter of a mile
across, but northward of it, it widens and forms a commodious basin.

The situation of port Utria will be easily known by Playa Baia, a beaeh about
4 miles long, fringed with cocoa-nut trees ; this is immediately northward af the
peninsula, and the land behind it is lor. At tho north extreme of the beaeh is the
mouth of the little river Baia, off which is a rocky islot.

■oiaao Point, in lat. U" 18', luug. 77° 27' 80", about 12 miles northward of the
river Baia, is a long, rocky, tonguo-liko projection, on the eastern side of whiah is the
bay of Solano. A roof, consisting of rocky patches with deep water between, extends
1| miles from tho point, and has soumlings of 10 to 80 fathoms close to it; it must
therefore be carefully avoided. The coast southward of this point is high and rocky,
with occasional small bcaolies. Thoro is a patch of rocks 8 cables from the shore, at
about G miles southward from tho extremity of the point, and the water i» deep
(40 fathoms) within a mile of the coast.

■oiane Bay is a deep but spacious anchorage forn>ed by Solano point on the south-
west, and a lofty promontory, which juts out some 8 miles on the north. It abounds
in fiah, wood, water and cocoa-nut palms ; and there are oonsiderui^ie groves o£

CUPICA, OCTAVIA, AND PINAS BAYS.

.vegetable hrory, a palm-like plant found in low damp localities, in the vicinity of the
sandy beaches. At about 2 miles south-westward from the north point of the bay,
there is a small chain of rocky islets, nearly a mile long, the centre of which hae a
remarkable sugar-loaf form : they are barren and frequented by large numbers of
gannets. The soundings i^. the bay are from 60 to 15 fathoms, the latter being oloso
to the shore.

Cnpiea Bay. — From Solano bay the land trends northward about 20 miles to Cnpioa
bay, which is about 5 miles wide, and justly considered one of the best anchorages on
this coast. It is formed on the west side by a projecting point named Cmoes, having
off it some dotached islets, the outermost of which is distant about 2 miles. Vessels
may anchor in any part of the bay in a convenient depth, and find shelter from all
winds except those from southward. The approximate geographical position of point
Cruces is lat. G" 39', long. 77° 80' 80".

When in Cupica bay, the nearest and most convenient mode of access to the Naipe,
a tributary of the Atrato, is from Limon bay, on the eastern shore ; the land above it
is about 600 feet hi?h, over which is a watorfall named Quebrada del Mar. The bead
of Cupica bay is a sandy boach 4 j^ miles long, at the west extreme of which ia the
month of the river Cupica ; on its banks there is a village with some plantations from
which vegetables can be obtained.

It is high water, fhll and change, in Cupica bay at 8h. 80m., the rise being about
18 feet. The current in the offing sots northward.

Ootavla Bay. — From Cruces point the coast trends north-westward 15 miles to point
Marzo, in lat. 6° 50', long. 77° 40' 80", which is of a similar nature, and also has
detached islets extending 1^ miles southward from it. The bay eastward of Marzo
point named Octavia, although smaller than that of Cupica, possesses convenient depth
for anchorage. In addition to the detached islets off point Crnces there are high
barren rooks of fantastic shapes lying about 1 i miles southward of them ; the passage
between is deep and clear.

Tba OOA8T on the western side of point Marzo is bold, rugged, and thickly wooded ;
it runs in a northerly direction nearly 8 milos, to some detached islets, lying one mile
from the coast with 10 frtthoms in-shoro of thorn. Thence the coast bonds sharply to
the eabtward for 2 milos ; the cliffs ceasing at the mouth of the river Coredo, a small
stream easily entered by a boat, from which a coutinuous Hue of beach, with low lands
behind it, extends to tho north-wost for 14 miles, as fur as Ardita bay. On this part
of the coast are tho mouths of two small stroains, tho Curachichi and the Ouredo, both
of which are haired. This whole coast, like that to tho southward, is thinly inhabited,
huts being generally found in the bays and in tho vicinity of the numerous small rivers.
Ardita bay may be kndwn by a small islet lying off it. From Ardita bay to Pinas
point, a distance of R2 milos, tho con»t is high, rugged, and thickly woodi-d, having
deep water close to tho shore, with the exception of two small bays situated about
20 miles northward of Ardita ; the northern one, Gusgava, has oouvonimt auohorage ;
— there is also a beach dirootly south of Pinns point.

rinaa Bay is about ti milos northward of Pinas point. It affords tho best anchorage
between Octavia bay and (laraohin*' point. It is 2 milos deep by li miles wid^, with

GARACHINE AND SAN MIGUEL BAYS.

an average depth of ** '' .titnomB, and is open to south-westward, from which quarter
occasional squalls in the wet season, throw a considerable swell into it. The head of
the bay, the geographical position of which is lat. 7° 84' 87", long. 78° 9' 50"., con-
sists of a beach, little more than one mile in length, with low land behind it; the sidea
of the bay are high and rocky. Good water may be obtained from a stream at the
west extreme of the beach, which is protected from the swell by a small natural mole
on its western side. Vessels may anchor at about half a mile from the watering place
in 8 fathoms ; in the wet season they should keep more on the west side of the bay in
12 fathoms, with the end of the mole bearing N. by W. Off the western point of the
bay are the Centinelas, two high barren rocks.

oaraehin* Bay. — From Pinas bay a high, bolJ, and wooded coast trends northward
88 miles to point Garachine. At about 8 miles sonth-west from this point is cape
E^carpado, oiT which is an islet namad Cajualo. The land over point Garachine is
lofty, and mount Zapo (5 miles frora the coast) will be noticed as a sharp conical
peak, rising to an elevation of abcut 8000 feet. Garachine bay, north-eastward of the
point, between it and Patena point, is shoal ; its shore consists of low mangrove land,
forming the months of the river Sambo, which is fronted with mad banks extending
8 miles from the coast. At the entrance of the western month is the Pueblo of Gara-
chine, a small collection of huts. Fronting the bay, in a direct line between Gara-
chine and Patena points is a bank 5^^ miles long, with patches of 15 feet water on it,
and 4 and 6 fathoms inside ; and 4 miles N.W. by W. frx»n the former point, is a
small patch of 4^ fathoms, with 6 and 8 fathoms close to it.

There is anchorage close off either of the points of the bay, the water bnng deep in
their vicinity.

SAir MxaTrBZi bat is immediately north of Garachine bay. The entrance is
6^ miles wide, between Brava point on the north and Patena point on the south. At
about 2 miles E.S.E. from Brava point is Iioreuzo point, off which, within the bay
are Iguana and Napoleon islets, the former is about 1^ miles long, and is the larger
of the two ; 8 miles northward of these is llie mouth of the river Congo.

From Iguana island eastward the bay opens, being nearly 11 miles across, and at
7 miles north-eastward of the island is Pierce point, a rocky projection on the north
shore. The western side of the bay between Lorenzo and Pierce points is little known,
but is reported to bo shoal. The eastern side has plenty of water along it ; off Patena
point, which is just separated from the muiu enough to make it an island, there is no
known danger ; at 2^ miles inside this, in a N.N.E. direction, is Colorado point, bold
and rocky, with u conspicuous patch of reddish clay on its face, the coast between
forming a bay. Thu luud thou fur 1^ miles gradually decreases in height to Hamilton
point, when it falls back to the eastward, and beads round again to the north, forming
a bay 8} miles across, with low mangrove shores, having a village and anchorage in
it ; but as there are some lodges of rocks in this bay that do not always show, great
caution is uooessary in using it, and a boat should bo first sent in to point out the
deep wator.

In the entrance to San Miguel bay, at a short distance from the north shore, there
is an extensive bank, named Buey, upon which the sea breaks heavily ; it is miles

SAN MIGUEL BAY.

in ciromnferetice, and some of its patches are dry at low water. Its inn«r edge lies
nearly 1^ miles south-westward from Lorenzo point ; the passage between shonld not
be nsed, as there are only 10 feet least water in it, and generally a heavy dwell. A
spit of 12 feet extends H miles from its south-west end; and as only 4| Cathoms are
found at nearly 5 miles south-west from the bank, vessels should not stand within that
depth. Colorado point, kept oprai of Patena point bearing N.E., is a good mark to
dear this bank, and also for running into San Miguel bay.

At about 12 miles eastward from Lorenio point, and- consequently within the en-
trance of San Miguel bay, is Washington island, an islet 8 cables in length, as many
broad, and densely covered with wood. It lies nearly 8^ miles N.N.E. from Hamilton
point, and between it and the nearest shore are several islets and rocks. The channel
np the bay is northward of this island, between it and Jones island, a coaspicnoas
little rock about 20 £aet high, and covered with grass, lying H miles to the N.W.
by W. of it.

The coast from abreast of Washington island takes a northerly direction for aboot
6 miles to Stanley island ; in this space aru several little bays, lined with mangrove,
the points generally being of small elevation, rocky, and covered with bndi. The
channel is between the coast and a group of islands on the west, of which the eastern-
most is named the Strain ; this little island is about 25 feet high, covered with trees
9nd scrub, and surrounded by a ledge of rocks extending a short distance off it towards
the channel, but connected by mud banks with two islands westward of it. At this
point Barry rock, an islet 20 feet high, and eovered with eatti, lying about 8 cables
from the eastern shore, contracts the channel to one mile in width ; apparently there is
deep water all round this rock, but the passage on its west side being by far the widest,
most direct, and sounded, there can be no object in using the other. The channel
continues of about the same breadth to Virago point, a distance of 2^ mile«. When
working through do not go within a line drawn from one island to the other, and avoid
Bains bluff, one mile soathwutd of Virago point, where there is a dangerous ledge of
rocks at 3 cables from the shore.

Stanley Island, a low wooded island 1^^ miles long by ono mile broad, divides the
channel into two passages, both lending into Darlen harbour ; the principal one, or
Boca Grande, being a continuation of the bay of San Miguel in a northerly direction
past the west and north sides of Stanley island, and tho other, or Boca Ghica, between
its southern side and Virago point. The latter channel, although much shorter, is
too narrow for a sailing vessel to use with safety, on account of the rapid tide in it.

Boca Chica. — This has two dangerous ledges of rooks at its outer entrance, one on
each side, the passage between them being barely \\ cables wide ; the southern ledge
lies uoai'Iy 1 cable west from Virago point and only shows at low-water spring tides.
The Trovan rock on the north side of the cutrauoe uncovers at half tide about 2 cables
from the shore of Stanley island. Mary island, the northern of the group before
mentioned, kept just midway lotween the summit and north-west extreme of Jorey
island, bearing S.W., is an oictllent mark fur clearing those dangers, recollecting that
if brought on with the summit, the vessel will get on the northern ledge, and if open
to the westward sho will be on ilie opposite one; when past these rooks keep in mid-

ch
is

re
6

DARIEN HARBOUR.

channel. A small ledge runs out a short distance from the soath-east point of Stanley
island, having passed which the vessel will be in Darien harbour, and may anchor, as
convenient, in 5 to 10 fathoms, sand and mud. The Boca Chica is not, however,
recommended, unless used at slack water, for during the strength of the tide it runs
6 or 7 knots ; the eddies making the steerage difficult.

Boca Grande. — This lies between the rocks, outside the Boca Chica and Milne island
on the western shore, is one mile broad, and continues nearly the same width for
li miles between Stanley island and the shore. Mter passing the Boca Chica steer
north-westward, so as to shut in Mary island by Milne island, and do noi approach
Stanley island within 8 cables, as a dangerous rock, showing only at about three-
quarters ebb and connected by a ledge with the shore, lies off its north-west point.
Milne island just touching the eastern end of the islands connected with Strain island,
bearing S. i £., is a good mark for running; and if working, when northward of Milne
island ' ■ . directly Mary island opens of it on the one side, and when Edith island is
shut iii on the other. The navigable channel at this point is three-quarters of a mile
wide, and begins to turn to the eastward round the north end of Stanley, narrowing to
half a mile between Ray and Jannette islands on the north, and a large flat rock,
nearly always uncovered, and a little wooded island about a cable off Stanley island on
the south; following the channel, it bends back to the south-east, and continues of the
same breadth between Ellen and Paley islands on the west, and the main land on the
east, into Darien harbour.

Dwrten Barbonr is a magnificent sheet of water extending 11 or 12 miles in a south-
east direction as far as the village of Chupigana. It is formed by the junction of the
Tuyra and Savana rivers, and the depth of water in it from Paley island as far as the
mouth of the Savana, a distance of 2 miles, is from 10 to 4^ fathoms, beyond which
there is not more than 12 to 18 feet at low-water springs. The best place for anchoring
is in from 7 to 10 fathoms, off the village of Palma, one mile southward of Price point,
at about 8 cables from the western shore. The Vaguila rock, showing at about half
tide, lies off the mouth of the Savaua, East IJ miles from Palma point, with a good
channel between it and Oraham point, the west point of entrance to the river. The
shores of the harbour are almost without exception ono continuous line of mangrove,
with densely wooded hills from 100 to 800 feet high a shoi-t distance inland. Palma
appears to be situated on the best spot, and has an abundance of fresh-water.

The Hirer Tmjrn rises in lat. 7" 40', and enters Darien horbour near the village of
Chupigana. Twenty miles from this point, near the junction of the river Chuqunaque,
are the ruins of the old Spanish fort of Santa Maria, near which were the gold mines
worked by the Spaniards in the 17th century. The river is desciibed as being navi-
gable miles beyond the town, " abreast which it was reckoned to be twice as broad
as the river Thames is at London. The rise and fall of the tide there was 15 feet."
The river Chuqunaque rises in lat. 8" 50', westward of Caledonia bay on the Atlantic.

The Savana liiver rises in lat. S" 44', and a few miles from its source meets the
river Lara, whore the bottom is level with the half-tide. From this point the depth
increases, 8 fathoms at low water being found 8J miles to the southward, and from
thence to the mouth, a distance of 12 miles, the depth varies from U to 12 fathomi

TRINIDAD AND CHIMAN RIVERS, Ac.

oyer a soft mnddy bottom. The navigable entrance is nearly one mile wide between
Graham point and Haydon bank, and the shores are low mangrove land, skirted with
hills from 200 to 800 feet high, within 2 miles of the banks. H.M.S. Virago anchored
in 8| fathoms, one mile to the north-east of Graham point.

It is high water, on the days of fall and change of the moon in Darien harbonr at
4h., and springs are said to rise 24 feet. The tides in the narrows run proportionally
strong, and great care should therefore be taken.

Brava and Lorenzo points, forming the north side of San Mignel bay, are edged
with reefs and outlying rocks, on which the sea breaks with great violence ; this fact,
together with the proximity of the Buey bank, makes this part of the coast dangerous,
and it should therefore be avoided, even by small vessels.

' Farallon Ingles, — ^This is a small but high island, on the edge of the shoal off the
river Buenaventura, at about 5 miles northward of Brava point ; there are 12 and
15 feet water on its western side. At 4 miles northward of it is Gorda point, which is
bold and woody with a depth of 4 fathoms close to it.

The Pajaros are two small rocky islets lying off the coast, 4 miles northward from
Gorda point ; there is a depth of 4 and 5 fathoms off their west sides, but only 12 feet
between then and the shore. At these islets a shoal commences, with 5 fathoms on
its outer edge, which fronts the whole shore of the bay of Panama as far westward as
Chame point.

BiTor Trinidad, 2} miles northward of the northern Pajaros is'et, has a low rooky
projection forming its south point of entrance. A 8-fathom channel was found into
this river, extending 1^ miles from the point, beyond which it was not examined. The
borthem bank of the river is composed of mangroves, which continue along the coast,
with the exception of the bluffs of the rivers Ghiman and Ghepo, as far as Panama, a
distance of nearly 70 miles. Shag rock, a barren islet, frequented by birds, with shoal
water round it, lies 2^ miles from this entrance.

Mangue and Mnjaguay, 7 miles from the entrance of the Trinidad, are high, wooded
islets at tide time, but not at low water, being situated on the south-west edge of a
large mud flat, which extends from the north bank of the river Trinidad. There are
10 to 12 feet water westward of them.

Xlvar Oblman, 4 miles northward of Mangne and Mojngnay, is wide at the mouth,
but shoal, being dry at low water, with the oxccptiuu of some small channels deep
enough for canoes. Tho entrance is well marked by the islets just mentioned and the
wooded bluffs on each side. On the eastern side, under a hill, is the small town of
Ghiman.

PcUido Island. — At about 4 miles W. by S. from Mangue islet, and directly off the
mouth of tho river Ghiman, is Pelade, a small flat island, about GO feet high. It ia
steep on all sides, and useful as a mark to vessels bound up the bay for Panama,
which should not go eastward of it.

The coast between I'uludo and Ghopillo islands, the latter distant 81 miles to the
north-west, oonsists of low river land covered with mangrove bushes. In this space
are several small streams, the principal of which are the rivers Hondo and Gorutn ;
but these are shoal at tho entrance. Tho laud north of those rivers is of some elevation ;

PANAMA.

Colnmi) peak and Asses ears, about 12 miles north of Chiman, and Thnmb peak,
at the vest extreme of the range, are conspicuous. Extensive mud banks, dry at low
water, extend from 2 to 4 miles off the coast ; outside these the water is shoal for some
distance, hence vessels standing towards the main should tack in 9 fathoms.

Chepillo island, in about lat. 8° 26^', long. 79° 7', lies off the mouth of the river
Chepo, at about 2 miles from the coast. It is one mile long by half a mile broad, low on
the north side, and rises by a gentle ascent towards the south, over which is, or was, a
remarkable tree, which forms an excellent mark to vessels bound up the bay. The
southern point of the island may be approached as near as a mile, but the other sides
are shoal, and a reef runs off its northern point in the direction of the river.

Cbapo BiT«r extends some distance into the interior, having its rise near the head
of the Savana river. The entrance is westward of Chepillo island, through a 10-foot
channel, about 8 cables broad; there is a small hill, with a cliff under it, on the
eastern bank, which, if brought to bear N.E. i E. (1847), will lead through the
deepest water.

At the west bank of this river the mud flat commences, and continues to Petillo
point, immediately northward of Panama. It is shallow some distance out, in front of
this flat, hence vessels should not approach the coast between Chepillo island and
Panama, nearer than the depth of 6 fathoms.

TAVAXHA is a regular and was formerly a well-fortified city, standing on a rocky
peninsula. It has a noble appearance from the sea, the churches, towers, and houses,
showing above the line of the fortifications, stand out from the dark hills inland with
an air of grandeur to which there is no equal on the west coast of South America. It
is rendered still more conspicuous by mount Ancon, a beautiful hill, 540 feet high,
rising nearly a mile westward of the city, to which it forms a pleasant background ; on
each side of Ancon are flat hills, with copses of wood and savanas, grassy slopes and
wild thickets, while southward of the city the cultivated islets of Flamenco and Perieo
complete the scene.

The site of Panama has once been changed. Tho old city, built in 1518, which
was taken and destroyed by tho buccaneers under Morgan in 1G78, stood at the month
of a creek, about 4 miles north-east of the present city. The spot is now deserted,
but well marked by a tower, which, together with an arch, two or three piers of a
bridge, and some fragments of a wall, are the only remains of a once opulent city.
The tower, in the afternoon, is still a conspicuous object from the anchorage.

The expectations formed of the modern city of Panama, as seen from tho sea, are by
no means realised on landing. The principal streets extend across the peninsula from
sea to sea, intersected by the Calle Ileal or Royal street, which runs east and west,
and has a quiet and stately, but comfortless, air. Heavy balconies in the upper stories
are but little relieved by any variety in the buildings. The houses, mostly in the old
Spanish style, are of stone, tho larger having courts or patios : tho public edifices
comprise a cathedral, five convents, a nunnery, and a college, but most of these are
in ruins. Tho cathedral is a largo, lofty building, on tho west side of the Plaza,
but the structure ia hardly worthy of its situation, tho towers olono redeeming it
from insignifioanoo, and forming in the distance an ornament to the city. A groat want

PANAMA.

is felt ia Panama with regard to drainage. This is caused by neglect ; for the eleva-
tion of the peninsula on which the city stands, together with the great rise of the tide,
offers considerable advantages for cleansing the city, which duty at present is performed
by t^a heavy rains of the wet season.

The gold discoveries of California and British Columbia, by increasing the coloniza-
tion and developing the great agricnltural resources of those countries, have effected a
ehange in the fallen fortunes and grass-grown streets of Panama; and comfortable
inns and large well-stocked stores have been called into existence by the continuous
transit of emigrants from Europe and the United States to San Francisco and Victoria ;
this traffic has, however, decreased since the establishment of the railway from New
York to San Francisco.

The suburb of Santa Ana, situated on the isthmus which connects Panama with the
mainland, is almost as extensive as the city, though not so well built. At its northern
extreme is the terminus of the Panama railway to Colon or Aspinwall, on the Atlantic,
a distance (by rail) of 47 miles. This railroad was only completed in January 1855,
since which time the company has been constantly making improvements.* The line

* The problem of oonstrncting a canal across the istbmnB of Panama to connect the two great
oceans, the Atlantic and Pacific, has lately been again revived. In the spring of 1879 a Congress
was held in Paris for th« purpose of discnssing the various schemes which have from time to time
been pat forward. At its termination the report of the Technical Committee on the seven schemes
which it had conridered was Mad and may be briefly sammarized as follows ; — The Tehuantepec,
240 kilometres, 120 sluices, 12 days transit. Nicaragua, Menocal-Blanchet schemes each 292
kilometres, 17 sluices; cost of cuu-.l^ruction, including sluices, 77O,O00,00Of, total cost O00,000,000f;
4i days. Panama, level «anal, 73 kilometres, one sluice, sis kilometres of tunnel ; construction
l,070,000,000f, total cost l,200,000,000f ; two days. Panama, sluices, 73 kilometres, 12 sluices ;
construction 570,000,000 ; total cost 700,000,000 ; two days. San Bias, 63 kilometres, 16 kilo-
metres of tunnel; construction, l,27O,000,000f, total cost l,400,000,000f ; one dny. Atrato
Napuipi, 290 kilometres, two sluices, four kilometres of tunnel ; construction 1,000,000, OOOf, total
cost l,130,000,000f ; three days. The expense of working and repairs was set down in each case,
oapitalised at 6 per cent., at 130,000,000f. As to the Tclmantepeo route, the committee had no
data on which to estimate the cost, but believed it would greatly exceed that of any of the other
•chemes. The Nicaragua prqject offered »n inexhaustible reservoir of water, and u port could easily
be made on the Pacific side ', but serioqs diiUculties were to be apprcliended at certain poicts. The
Panama schemes offered excellent ports at both ends, and the existing railway would facilitate tho
transit of material. Subject to tidal sluices at tho Paoifio end and the complete isolation of the
^ters of the Chagres and its affluents, the level scheme was quite satisfaotory. The Darien projects
were not acceptable. The committee objected also to the Nicaragua scheme, though technically
fiMsible, on account of the volcanic nature of the country and consequent liability to destruction of
the work. The Panama route, on the other hand, had long b-sen free from volcanic action, and was
decidedly preferable above all others. The choice lay here between a level canal and one with
sluices, and the committee decidedly preferred the former. — A report was likewise presented by the
President and office-bearers on the Congress at large and those of the various committees. This
document cited the Sues Canal traffic and charges as proof of the remunerativeness of the enter-
prise, and advocated a flat canal, through which 50 ships could pass daily, and capable of sheltering
at least GO ships at a time. It recommended the Congress to adopt the following resolution :— The
Comgreit kiddi that the euttinu of an inter-oceanic qanal of uniform level — a work so de$irable in
the intereit of commerce and navigation — u practicable, and that the maritime canal, in order to
tneet tlie indiipentabU facilities of access and utilisation which ought to be offered by a passage of
this kind, should be made from the Oulf of Limon to the Day of Panama." Tho r^ll was then
«alled, aud eooh member of the Congress was asked to vote upon tho rssolution. it. do Lesseps

PANAMA.

ifl only a nngle one bat there are foar eidings, ooe at each of the following places : —
GatuDr Barbaeoaa^ Matacbin and at the saminit (263 feet above the sea-level). It is
naintained in the greatest efficiency by stations, situated 4 miles apart. The time
ooeapied in the transit is about 4^^ hoars, and the fare is (or was) 25 dollars. A
telegraph is established between its termini.

A regular mail service is established from England to the West Coast of South
America, via the Panama railway. After touching at all the principal ports on the coast
Valparaiso ia reached in 42 to 50 days.

The trade of the isthmus of Panama is extensive ; it is carried on mainly by a large
fleet of first-claaa steamers, many of them registering fi'om 2000 to 8000 tons. These
steamers, or others on the same lines, make regular semi-monthly trips direct from
the isthmus to upwards of 50 different ports, in no less than 15 distinct countries.

Panama affords the usual supplies which are to be obtained in tropical regions.
Provimons of excellent quality may also be obtained from the United States ; and, whea
time will admit of it, getting such from the States is preferable to purchasing in the
markets of Colon or Panama. The United States squadron have all their stores and
provisions sent across the isthmus.

Water can be obtained at Panama from the tank of the U.S. mail steamers ', but it
is cheaper at Taboga, where it may be purchased at two dollars a ton. Coal may be
bought here at timp'^ from the mail companies, but it is generally dear ; the cost of
coal imported into . iuama by way of Cape Horn being 16 dollars per ton, and by the
railroad 15 dollars (1860). Consuls of all nations reside of Panama.

Large quantities of Peru bark, balsam, cochineal, cocoa, coffee, bides, india-rubber,
indigo, logwood, oil (whale and cocoa-nut,) sarsaparilla, vanilla, gold, silver, and
hundreds of other commodities of the Pacific, seek a market via this great central route
of the globe. The population of the city is estimated to be about 12,000.

The geographical position of the isthmus of Panama, the absence of high mountains,
and the vast extent of forests and other uncultivated parts, tend to produce a hot and
rainy climate, which nevertheless, with the exception of a few localities, as Chagres,
Colon, and Portobello, is healthy and more favourable to the constitution of Europeans
than that of most tropical countries. The most prevalent disease is intermittent fever,
which makes its appearance daring the change of the season ; remittent fever is less
frequent, but generally proves fatal. On board ship, Panama is by far the most
healthy place on the coast of Central America.

The seasons are regularly divided into the wet and dry ', the former commences in
the latter end of May and lasts till November. Slight at first, the rain gradually
inoveases, and is fully established in June, when it falls occasionally in torrents.

voted in ita favour, and Sir John Stokes also voted affirmatively. The reiolutiou wns ooi-ricd bj
74 to 8, there being 16 abseutees.

To carry out this gigantio work a Company, under the name of the " Inter-Ooeanio Canal Uni-
versal Company " baa been started (August 1879) under the Presidency and Direction of M. Ferdi-
nand d« Lesseps, Presideut-Direotor of the Suez Canal. The work is expected by the promoters, to
oooupy abgat 8 or 10 yean, bat it is doabted by many whether it will ever be aceomplished.

PANAMA.

accompanied by thander and lightning ; tho air is loaded with moisture, and calms or
light variable winds prevail. The temperature varies from 75° to 87° Fahr. ; still
the atmosphere is oppressive, until cooled by the heavy rains and thander storms
before-mentioned. About the end of June the rains are suspended for a short time ;
and the occurrence of this phenomenon is so regular that it is looked forward to by the
inhabitants, who call it the veranito (little summer) de San Juan, probably from its
taking place almost simultaneously with the feast of St. John (June 24th.) In
December the violent rains cease and the north-west wind sets in, producing an imme-
diate change, and the climate now displays all its tropical beauties.

Dampier's remarks on the climute of Panama are too true to be omitted : — " There
are no woods nor marshes near Panama, but a brave, dry champaign land, not subject
to togs or mists. The wet season begins in the latter end of May, and continues till
November. At that time the sea breezes are at S.S.W., and the land winds at North.
The rains are not so excessive about Panama itself, as on either side of the bay ; yet
in the months of June, July, and August, they are severe enough. Gentlemen that
come from Peru to Panama, especially in these months^ cut their hair close, to preserve
them from fevers ; for the place is sickly to them, because they come out of a country
which never hath any rains, but enjoys a constant serenity; but I am apt to believe
this city is healthy enough to any other people."

The Port. — The port of Panama is formed by Petillo point (a black rocky promontory
with two small hills over it, between which is a rivulet admitting boats at high water)^
1^ miles north-eastward of the city, and the point upon which the city stands, the
shore between forming a bay nearly three-quarters of a mile deep, the head of which is
of mud fronted by a sandy beach. A great portion of this bay is dry at low water
springs ; at its entrance there is a depth of 8 feet. It is here that the terminus of the
railroad across the isthmus is situated, consisting of an iron pier 450 feet long, up to
which the smaller steamers come for the transport of passengers and merchandise
between the shore and the ocean steamers at Perico or Tobago. Large canoes, well
fitted for the navigation of the gulf are also employed for the minor trade as they are
useful in transporting the various tropical productions of the isthmus to the port of
Panama.

Light, — A fixed red light is exhibited from the end of the railway pier, which is
situated a quarter of a mile to the northward of the city.

Petillo point, the north point of the bay, is surrounded by rocky ledges, which ex-
tend out li cables, and have a depth of 10 feet at their extremity. Buey point, the
southern horn of the bay, is the north-eastern point of the long rocky lodges that
surround the eastern and southern shores of the peninsula of the city ; it is only
visible at low tide. These ledges extend 8^ cables from the north-east bastion,
5 cables from the south-east bastion in an easterly, and 2,^ cables in a southerly direc-
tion, forming a bay southward of Buey point, in which is easy landing after half-flood,
on a sandy beach in front of the Monk's gate, one of the principal entrances to the
city. The general landing, however, is north of Buey point, at the market place on
the northern side of the town. Abreast the suburbs on the southei'u side, another
ledge runs off for nearly three-quarters of a mile, eastward of which are Los Hermanos,

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PANAMA ROAD.

three black rocks visible at first qnarter ebb. Detached rocks, with 8 and 7 feet
water between them, visible only at low water sp iuga, lie oflf the south-east extreme of
the rocks, the outer one being 3 cables from the reef. These ledges, composed of rock
with sand patches between, although dangerous to boats, afford evei^ facility for erecting
substantial piers and improving the port. As yet (1879) no attempt has been made at
works at this description, but the daily increasing trade must ultimately necessitate
improvements of this kind.

Guinea point, 2 miles south-westward of Panama, is the northern extreme of a large
round hilly projection, which forms the western side of Panama road. Between it and
the town are the mouths of the Grande, Arena, and Falfan, small rivers, with culti-
vated banks. The water on this side of Panama road is shoal as far as Tortola and
Tortolita islands, which lie 2 miles southward of Batele point, the south extreme of the
hilly projection above-mentioned. One mile E. by S. i S. from Batele point is Chan-
garmi island, surrounded by the Pulperia reefs ; and to the south-west of the point
are Bruja and Venado points, rocky and projecting, with the outlying islets of Cocovi
and Cocoviceta. Although these dangers are mostly above water, this part of Panama
bay should be avoided.

Tarieo and Flamenco, with the outlying rock of San Jose, are A group of islands,
forming the south side of Panama road. Ilenao and Gulcbra, the western and southern
parts of Perico, are connected with Perico by an isthmus of beach and rockf? : but at
high water these present the appearance of throe islands. Perico is the bead-quarters
of the United States mail steamers, the bay On its northern side forming a convenient
anchorage, while on the isthmus, which is sandy on that bide, steamers of 2500 tons
have been easily beached. Vessels using this anchorage after passing Flamenco should
keep close round the noiih end of Perico, and anchor when the isthmus opens. Large
vessels drawing over 20 feet may coal at Perico by passing west of the group at half-
tide, with Ancon hill (which on that bearing makes like a cone) just open of Ilenao,
N.N.W. ; pass about a cable from Ileno.D, and anchor off its noi-th-west end in 24 feet,
when Perico opens. In both cases attention must be paid to the time of tide. The
passage between Perico and Flnmenco is shoal, and should not be used ; that between
Flamenco and San Jose is deep, and both islands are steep.

Dandide Rocks. — These patches of conical rocks, lying on the eastern ridge of
Panama road, E. by S. %\ miles from the south-east bastion, have only 15 to 18 feet
water on them, and %^ and 4 fathoms on all sides. They lie awkwardly in the track of
vessels standing for the anchorage; keeping their luif' with the land breeze. The Her-
manos rocks, in line with the hill between the rivers Grande and Falfan, bearing
W. by 8., lead northward of them; and the south steeple of the cathedral kept half-
way between the east and south-east bastions, W.N.W., leads southward of them.
This spot is a favourite fishing-place, and vessels should avoid canoes seen in its
vicinity, as they are probably fishing on the rocks.

Sulphur Rocks. — This dangerous reef, cables long by 3 cables broad, lying one
mile north-westward of the Danaide, has a rock awash in its centre, with C and 9 feet
around it, and outlying patches of 12 and 14 feet. The railroad flagstaff on with the
centre of Ancon, bearing W. ^ S., leads northward of the reef in 15 feet, but this

PANAMA ROAD.

(

passage should not be used at low water springs ; and the Hermanos rocks in line with
a round peal, over the river Grande, lead southward of the reef in 18 feet.

The Knocker and Tahoga are two rocks, with only 6 feet water on them. The
Enocker, which is, or was, marked by a red buoy with staff and jiarj on it, lies nearly
one mile E. i N. from the south-east bastion ; the Taboga lies a little more than
2 cables south-westward of the Enocker buoy, with 16 feet water between, and 12 feet
in-shore of them, but no stranger should attempt to pass westward of the buoy.

VABOOA XB&AMD, with Urava and Tabognilla, a group of islands about 4 miles long
by 2 broad, are situated 9 miles southward of Panama. Taboga, the largest and
westernmost, is 086 feet above the sea, well cultivated, and has a considerable village
on its north-east side. Northward of the village is the mono of Taboga, a small hill,
connected with the main island by a low, sandy isthmus, covered at high water ; this
is the head-quarters of the Pacific Mail Company, who have here a steam factory and
coal stores, also a gridiron, 800 feet long, on which H.M.S. Mayicienue, a vessel of
1265 tons, was repaired in 1858.

Vessels visit Taboga from Piinama to obLiin waior and supplies, both of which are
more readily obtained than at the city ; water can be procured from the Company's
tank. The anchorage ofif the village is convenient, being about 8 cables from th<. shore
in 10 fathoms, with the peak of Urava on with the high cliff of Taboga, and the church
from S.W. i S. to West.

vrav* is a small lofty island, separated irom Taboga by a narrow and shoal channel;
off its southern extreme is the small islot of Terapa.

TaboKoiiia, 710 feet high, is well cultivated, with some islets off its south-west
extreme, and forms the uorth-eact island of the gi'onp, with a wide and deep channel
between it and Urava, in the vet.' i'e of which is a sunken rock just awash &t low water;
the sea seldom breaks over it at high water and it must be carefully avoided by closing
either island, both being steep-to, or vessels may pass south of it by keeping the
isthmus of the morro open, bearing N.W. by W. i W. Farallon, a small islot, also
lies in this channel, but it is steep-to with 11 fathoms between it and Tuboguilla.

Tides. — It is high water on the days of full and ohnngo, in Panama road at 8h. 28m.,
springs rise from 15 to 22 feet, and neaps from 10 to 16 fuet. Tho ebb sots south
from 1 to li miles an hour, and is stronger than the flood, which runs to the uor'iii-
west. The long swell which occasionally sets into the road always ceases with the
flowing tide. It has been remarked by tho oflicers of tho U.S. Pacific mail steamers
that there is more rise in tho small b:^y north of the town, and also in their own
anchorage off Perico, than in tho more open parts of tho road.

Diraotinas. — Sailing vessels bound to Puuaaa shoulJ endeavour to ;:;ot within 8 or
4 miles of Chopillo island, especially between DoL'ombar and Jnno, and ho have all tho
advantaged of the prevailing northerly wind. From this poHition Ancou bill will bo
Been, and should bo kept a little on the port bow, as tho wind iiauls to tho westward
ou approaching Panama. YosboIb drawing over 18 ftet ihould pass south of tho
Danaide rocks, by keeping Ban Jose rock* open of tho west point uf Taboga island,

* Wo believe i\ light, viiiblo 7 milei, ii exhibilcd ou '^' \n Joi6 rook, when the iteaiuorB from Sau
FrAnoiioo are oxpooted.

CHAME BAY.

. 23m.,
south

bearing S.S-.W. i W., until tho cathedral towers are open eastward of /lcou. Having
passed tho Danaide rocks the ship is fairly in tho road and may anchor according to
her draught; — if no n.ore than 18 feet draught she may have Tortola island just phut
in hy Ilenao, bearing S.S.W. J W., and San Jose rock open east of Tahoguilla island.
Vessels drawing 24 feet may anchor north of Perico, with the peak of Urava island on
with the east point of Flamenco, bearing South, taking care not to open Changarmi
northward of Perico. If it is necessary to work up tho road to an in-shoro berth, tack
on the western side just before Perico and Flamenco touch ; and in standing to tho
eastward do not open San Jose of Taboga island.

Vessels drawing 14 feet can pass north of the Danaide and south of tho Sulphur
rocks, with the Hermanos rocks on with the right side of the peak, between the rivers
Grande and Falfan ; then San Jose rock on with the peak of Tahoguilla bearing
S. i E. leads between the Sulphur and Knocker rocks ; and they may anchor north of
the Knocker buoy in 10 feet, keeping it between Perico and Flamenco, with Gabilan,
a small rocky peninsula west of the town, just shut in by the south-east bastion.
During neap tides they may anchor still farther to tho N.W.

Panama road, although shoal, may be considered secure ; the ground being muddy
holds well. A resident in Panama for live years, stated, that during that time there
was no known case of a vessel being driven from her anchor; and with good ground
tackle and common precaution a vessel might lie there all the year round with ouo
anchor down. Attention to tho tides and soundings of tho roadstead will enable a
vessel to lie close in at times for the discharge of cargo.

Oeoffniphical Posit inn, — The position of tho south-east angle of the south tower of
Panama cathedral is lat. 8" C7' G"-15, long. 79° 82' 12"'8. The longitude was deter-
mined by telegraph from Aspinwall, by Lieut. F. M. Com. Groen, U.S. Navy, in 1875.

cbama Bay. — Tho coast southward of Panama bet\/ceu Bruja point and Chamo point,
a distance of 16 miles, forms a shoal bay, with several outlying banks and rocky islets;
hence vessels bound to Panama should keep near the island of Taboga, and not approach
this shore within the depth of 5 fathoms. Viqne cove, in which is a small village, is
5 miles westward from Driya point. About ouo mile north-eastward of Vique is a
lofty troblo-peaked hill, called Cerro do Cabra, a conspicuous object to vessels bound
to Panuuia, and frequently mistaken for Taboga by those coming from eastward.
Vacamouto point, tha western side of Vique cove, is the only break in tho mud flat
which fronts this laud, and extends out nearly 2 miles from shore.

Cliaun' bay, at the hoad of which is a sniuil river of the same name, is nearly filled
up by largo banks, tho largest of which, tho Cubra spit, lies in tho middle, and has on
it an islet named Tabor. Chuini) point, the southern horn of this bay, is a singular,
low, woody proiiioutory, rtj miles long by half a mile broad. Between it and Cabra
spit is a convenient harbour, 2 milts in longlh by about throo-quortors of a mile wide,
with from 8 to » f;itli;;:ur, water in it, and from 1(5 lo IH fi^et eloso to tho beach of
Clliami' point. To tho nortli-wcst (if liio river is a high rungo called Sierra Caprro,
and to tho southward are tho Corrj Chamo, a group of wooded hills.

Meloiuix Itilinid is a small rocky islot 21 miles north-westward from Taboga, liaving
al about hiiU" a mile northward of it, a rock of the same name above w.itcr. Tho inland
is steep, but vessels should be careful not to pass westward of it.

PARITA BAY AND PEARL ISLANDS, &o.

Chame Island, with the Perique rock, are of a similar character to Meloncs, and
situated about the same distance southward of Taboga.

VaUadoiid is a large rock, nearly 2 miles south-westward of Chame island, having
9 and 10 fathoms close to it.

otoqas and Bona Xaianda, with Estiva island and tho Bedundo rock lying 6 miles
soath-eastward from Chame point, form a group similar to, but somewhat smaller than
Taboga and Taboguilla. A village, named Golota, is in the bay on the western side
of Otoque. Anchorage, in from 10 to 14 fathoms, may be found in any part of this
group, and all dangers are above water. Tliese islands being high and peaked, form
good hnd-marks to vessels on this side of the gnlf of Panama.

PARITA BAT. — From Chame point t}-i a*..''' ^vm south-westward 45 miles to
Parita bay, and consists throughout of a butifL naa/t Playa Grande, which is backed
by a low wooded bank. There is a depth c 1 a-d 5 fathoms at about 2 miles from
this beach, except S.8.E. i E. of the Cer.'o Chame, where there are only 4 fathoms at
nearly 7 miles from the land, tho bank extending from that to Chame point. To avoid
this, vessels from Parita bay should shape a couiso to pass about 2 miles southward
of Bona until Taboguilla is nearly touching Otoque, bearing N. by E. ^ E., when they
may steer up the bay, inside but nearer to the islands.

The mud-flats are found again on tho western side of Parita bay, the coast being a
low mangrove shore, intersected by tho mouths of no less than five small rivers ; the
land to the westward is also low with several hummocks. Al Liso point, on the sonth
side of the bay, the hard bank with sandy beach in front ugvn commences and con-
tinues as far as cape Mala, a distance of 88 miles, the const irr iJing to the south-east.
Parita bay is about 18 miles long north and south, ar '• j 'uiles deep, and has
soundings of 18 fathoms at lU miles from the shore, t!:: u:.<^ ■.' '(i>lly decreasing to
the Innd. It is exposed to all windii blowing from eastwi V).

Iguana Island. — At about 80 miles south-eastward of Liso -n t, 'jr d milos north-
ward of cape Mala, Iguana island, which is a little iiighor thuu mo adjacent coast,
forms a conspicuous object. A ledge extends about 8 cables from its southern and
also from its eastern point, and a reef is said to stretch to tho N.N.E. from its north
point, but otherwise the island is stoep-to with 15 falhuuis in tho channel between it
and the main.

It is high water, full and change, at Iguana island at 4h. ; tho rise and fall being
15 feet. Tho flood sets northward, and tho ebb soutl;-- 1 'wiivd, tho latter being con-
siderably the stronger, especially between December o:.J : ■".

Cape Mala, which forms the western point of eutrnncu " ilio guif of Panama, is a
low but clitfy point with outlying ro'iky ledges, having dot>i) water close to them. The
laud from the north-west slopes ;,'vr:!l.iUilv to tho sea at tliis point from ii considerable
distance, making tlie oxact k.ij,o diiru-v" ♦a dirilinguish, unltiss tho breakers are seen.
On opening tho gulf rom\t this taj^t, a strong southerly sot is generally experienced,
especially in tho dry season.

FBABXi ISLANDS. — ThoRC form an archipelago on tho onfitorn side of Panama bay,
consisting of sixteen iHlands and several roekw, Key is tlio I'lrgesl; San Jose, Oon-
zaluM, Canaya, Suboga, and Pachuca are of Hocouilury, and the rest of vxiuot iiuportanco.

PEARL ISLANDS.

•^

There are from 80 to 40 fishing villages scattered ahout these islands, the inhabitants
of which are chiefly engaged in the pearl fishery. The islands are low and wooded,
the soil fertile, but not much cultivated, and the numerous cocoa-nut groves, and bright
eandy beaches, intersected by small rocky bluffs crowned with trees, give them a
pleasant appearance ; most of them belong to merchants at Panama, who employ
negroes to plant and cultivate them.

Pacheca, Sahoi/a, and Confradora Islands, with the islets of Bartholomew and
Chipre, form the northern part of the archipelago, and between them is a good and
capacious harbour, well suited as a depot for steamers. Saboga, the largest island, ou
the east side of which is a considerable village, has a reef extending 1^ miles in a
northerly direction ; Coutradora has 5 fathoms close to its north-west shore, which is
low and well adapted for wharves. This harbour, which is about 2 miles long by
nearly one mile broad, with an avcrngo depth of 9 fathoms, has Saboga on its western
side, Oontradora on its south -cast, and Pacheca and Bartholomew on its north side; it
has three entrances, each possessing a 5-fathom channel, which may be used according
to wind and tide. The Pacheca channel lies southward of Pacheca, between it and the
reef extending from Saboga ; the Gontradora channel is round the northern end of
Gontnvdora island; and the Saboga channel is between that island and Coutradora.

It is high water, full and change, at Saboga island at 4h., and springs rise 14 feet.

Vessels using the Pacheca channel should pass within half a mile of the islet west of
Pacheca, and stand southward until the centre of Bartholomew island bears E. by
S. i S. ; then keep it on this bearing until T>\ck islet off Saboga opens westward of
Saboga bearing S. i E. which will lead to the anchorage.

Euteriug by the Coutradora channel, vessels should pass half a mile eastward of
Bartholomew island and not stand to the westward before the nearest islets north of
Saboga open northward of Saboga ; theso islets kept just open bearing W. by S. lead
through. Care must be taken not to open them too much, as there is a 2-fathom
patch off the north-east cud of Coutradora.

Vessels from eastward using the Saboga cliaunel should steer in with the outer islet
ou the reef oxtoudiug from the south end of Saboga bearing W. i S., as this will lead
clear of tho Sunk rock, a patoh lying nearly a mile off the south side of Coutradora ;
and, when Pacheca is shut in by Siiboga, bearing N. \ W., they should steer northward,
and run through tho channel which is stoop ou both sides. There is a ohannol north-
ward of the Sunk rock, but that south of it is wider and better.

Approaching tho Saboga channel from westward, sail close to tho islet of Santa
Cataliuii, which lies about IJ miles south of Chipre, to avoid tiie shoal extending from
the latter island. From Catalina steer N.i". for the north end of Chapcra, tho island
ne.xt south of Coutradora, until Pacheca louehoH Coutradora, bearing N. by W. ; then
steer N.N.W. i VV. for a huiuH liill on Subnga, If.king cure not hi shut in Pacheca with
Haboga unlil tlio norlli point of Cbipt',. bears southward of West, and tiiat Pacheca is
skill iu before tho south point of SaLogii boars West, thou stand for mid-chauuol as
before.

Cluiperu and Vnjnros, tho islands immodiatoly southward of those just mentiouod,
are separatod by a 4-fttthom channel in which the ground is foul and consuquently not
safe to navigate. A shoal with 18 t'o(>t water on it lies one mile eastward of Pujnros,

B ri

PEARL ISLANDS.

and Bonthwai'd of that island the soandings are rocky and irregular. No vessel should
attempt the passage south of Chapera and Pajaros islands — between then and Rey island.

Casaya, Bayoneta and Viveros, are the largest among the numerous islands on the
reef extending from the north-west point of Rey island ; the passages between them all
are foul, with occasional suong tides. At nearly 4 miles eastward of the north point
of Casaya is a bank 1^ miles long by three-quarters of a mile wide, having only 9 feet
water on its shoalest part ; and at about 2 miles from the north-east point of Viveros
are the Caracoles and Cangrejo islets, with foul ground around them. The whole of
these islands may be avoided by vessels bound up the bay, by not approaching their
western side nearer than just to open San Jose island eastward of Pedro '.lonzales
island, bearing S. by E. ; while on their eastern side, they should not open San Pablo,
a small islet off the north-east point of Rey island.

Bay, the principal of the Pearl islands, is about 15 miles long, in a north and south
direction, by 7 broad ; it has several peaks on it, the highest of which is about CiOO
feet above the sea. Numerous islets, having deep water between them, lie 8 miles off
its western rfhore, and these ehould no*, be approached by strangers within the depth
of 10 fathoms. Cocos point, its southe.n extreme, is a remarkable j^roraontory,
4 miles long by about one wide, the extreme cliff of which was crowned in 1850 by an
umbrella-shaped tree. On the east side of this promontory is the bay of St. Elmo,
where is convenient anchorage, and a good stream of water at Lemon point at its head ;
the soundings in this bay are lU to 6 fathoms, the latter being at a short distance
from the shore.

The eastern shore of Rey has also islands off it, which may be approached to half a
mile, with tho exception of that named Canas. This is an island about 6 miles norths
ward from St. Elmo bay, tho larger of two islands separated from the shore by a
narrow chauDcI; it has off it a sunken rook at nearly a mile distance, and three-
quarters of a mile outside this is a patch of 8 fathoms ; — to avoid these sunken dangers
do not open Mongi'i islot, eastward of St. Elmo, until Pablo islet opens eastward of
Muerta, a small barren islet lying about 1^ miles north-eastward of Cauas.

■an SHiKn*], the principal town of the Pearl islands, is on tho north side of Roy,
It iH of considerable bi^o, and has a conspicuous church, but is bailly situated, landing
being difficult at low water. Two hills— the Corro Congo and Cerro Vali — rise south-
ward of it, tho former being 481 foot high, Vesnela having to lie off tho town should
run In l)otwcon Camcolos and Cangrejo, and anchor in alout (5 or 7 fathoms, when the
church is shut in or behind \fuora, an islet lying off tho town, bearing 8.E. by S.
The bottom in this anchorage is irregular and locks are numerous, hence more than
ordinary cave is required.

(jnlern, an islet lying 71 miles E, } S. from Cocos point, tho southern extremity of
Roy, is gononiliy the first hind niudo by vessois bound to Panama from Houtii-eastward ;
its approximate googniphieiil position is Int. 8" 11. J', long. 78" 45i|'. lis southem side
consists of a cliff .sloping down to a beach on the 'lorth, and to tho southward a roof
runs off for nearly .i mile. It should not bo approached within the dopth of 10 fi'thoins,
but there is a good pasnago botweou it and Cocos point, by uuiug which vessuls will
bo dear (if the San Josr bank.

PEARL ISLANDS.

San Jose Bank lies about 9 miles in an E.S.E. direction trom Galera island, and
immediately faces the entrance to San Miguel bay. It consists of a bank of 7 or 8
fathoms, which extends N.W. ^ N. and S.E. J S. 8 miles, ar'l Is m no part more than
three-quarters of a mile broad. Close to it all round is a depth of 12 to 18 fathoms,
which in a westerly direction deepens to 80 fathoms at less than a mile. In the centre
of this bank is the Trollope rock, having only 2 feet water over it at low tide ; it bears
W. i S. 16 miles from Garachine point, and E.S.E. 9 miles from Galera island. The
shoal upon which this rock stands is one mile long by about three-quarters of a mile
broad ; the depth close to the rock is 8^ to 6 fathoms, and there are 7 and 8 fathoms
on its outer edge — vessels should not therefore approach it within the depth of 10
fathoms. The rock may be easily avoided, either by keeping on the main shore until
Garachine point bears southward of East, or by passing about 2 miles from Galera
island, taking care at the same time not to run on the shoal patch and rocks off the
southern side of the latter.

Fedro aonzaJes is separated from the islets off the west side of Bey by a broad
deep channel. It is about 12 miles in circumference, and has on its northern side two
small bays protected from the north by the islands of Senora and Senorita. These
bays, known as Perry and Mngicienno, are divided by the little peninsula of Trapiche,
off the east point of which is a rocky ledge, terminating in a shoal with 14 feet water,
at a distance of nearly 8 cables from the point ; inside this, to the southward, there is
a small anchorage in i^ fathoms. Magicieune bay is small and shoal; on its western
side a stream of water runs into the sea. Perry bay the eastern one, is about a milo
in extent each way.

Senoru and Senorita, including the shoal off their eastern side, are about ono milo
long, and lie nearly the sumo distance northward of Trapiche, with a 7-fathom channel
between, steep on both sides.

Tides. — It is high water, on the days of full and change of the moon, in Perry bay
at Bh. 50m. ; and the rise is IG foot. Tbo tide stream is not felt in the anchorage,
but there is a cousiderablo set off the island, tho flood running to the northward,
the ebb to the southward, tho hitter being generally stronger.

Directions, — Vessels may pass on either side of tho Senora and Senorita ; if on the
east side, avoid the shoal oxteuiiii)<^ from them by keeping the eastern point of Gonzalos
island, a rocky pouinsula, open of tho point next north of it, bearing S.S.E., until the
north end of Senora is shut in by Senorita, bearing N.W. by W. J W. Going into
Perry bay, a good look-out must be kept for the shoal running off E.S.E. from
Trapiche island.

Vassaffo llock. — At nearly 1\ miles S.S.W. } W. from tho rook off tho south end of
Pedro Gonzalos, there is a dungorous rock, awash or nearly so at low tide, named
Passage rock, lying in almost mid-cbunncl botwoon Pedro Gonzales and San Joso. It
has soundings of 12 and 1) fathoms close to it, u..! 7 to 5 fathoms at a short distance
northward of it. Iho mark to lead rather more than half a milo southward of it is, —
the peak next south of tho highest on llcy island, just open southward of Coco islet,
one of the outlying islots off tho west side of Roy, bearing E. by N. J N. Vossols
should keep between tho San Joso shore and this mark.

WINDS, CURRENTS, &o., IN THE GULF OF PANAMA.

San Jose Island, four milos South of Gonzales, is about 6^^ miles long by 3 miles
broad, and its summit consists of table laud. At nearly 2 miles south-eastward from
Iguana point, its northern extreme, is a large waterfall, flowing into the sea, and form-
ing an excellent watering place. At the south-east side of the island there is a bay,
in which are soundings of 8 to 5 fathoms, but, as the swell sets in there with great
violence, it is not convenient for shipping. Off the southern point of the island are a
number of high rocks of singular and fantastic shape ; this part of the island should be
avoided. The western shore is bold and cliffy, with a small bay near the centre.

mrzicDS, ciTBBBnrTS, fte., In til* atrzir or PAirAMA. — The navigation of the ap-
proaches to the gulf of Panama, situated as they are in the region of the doldrums,
with the land of Central America considerably affecting the northern trade, becomes to
a vessel unaided by steam ono of tho most tedious, uncertain, and vexatious under-
takings known to the sailor. Stuum power will considerably simplify these difficulties,
but tho experiences of a sailing vessel may materially assist tho navigation of the
auxiliary screv/ steamer in this portion of the Pacific.

winds. — Between cape Corrientes and Panama, the prevalent winds are from north-
ward and westward, with frequent squalls and wet weather from the south-west between
tho months of June and October.

In tho gulf of Panama tho winds are regulated by the seasons ; the prevalent wind,
however, is from northward. In tho fine season, commencing in October, these winds
are regular and constant, bringing fine dry weather. Southward of tho gulf they blow
much harder, and off tho coast of Veragua a double reefed topsail breeze in January
and February is not uncommon. In April and May the northerly winds are less regular,
and have more westing in thorn, with calms, light sea, and land breezes, with occasional
squalls from the south-westward. In Juno tho rainy season sots in, and the southerly
winds become stronger. Still tho old north-wc.^it wind is mostly found after noon, and
vessels sailing from Panama at all seasons will generally have a fair wind until south
of cape Mala.

Between tho Galapagos islands and tlie coast, westward of tho meridian of 80°, and
southward of the parallel of 5" N., tho winds are between South and West all tho year
round, nnd, except between the mouths of February and June, they are of sufficient
strength and duration to make tho mivigatlon easy ; but northward of lat. 5° N., between
80° and 110° W., is a region of calm and doldrums, accompanied by rains and squalls
of a most voxntious description. The weather met with can hardly be better illustrated
than by the facts that in May 1818 II.jM.S. Herald, in her passage towards the Sand-
wich islands, although towed for G days as far west as 80° 20', still took 40 days from
Panama to 110" W., owing to keeping between tho parallels of 8° and 10° N., and in
March of tho following year, in tho meridian of 87", and tho lat. of 8° N., only made
BO milos in days.

CorrentB. — Tho gulf of Panama is also stilijoct to varying currents, partly caused
by the peculiar forimition of the land, and ap[).uent!y influenced in turns by the Poruviau
or Mexican streams, according as tho relative strength of each predominates. Thus
Malpelo island is surrounded by a strong current, having muuh thu appearuuoe uf

PASSAGES TO AND FROM PANAMA.

brealters. Here one navigator found the current setting strongly into tlie gulf N.E.
by E. at the rate of '2,^ miles an hour, while others describe it as running violently in
the opposite direction. That these varying statements should be equally correct is not
at all incompatible, considering the position of the island amidst conflicting winds.
This ancertaiuty is another embarrassment to the navigation between Panama and the
Galapagos. A steady current, however, has generally been found to set northward
after passing cape San Lorenzo, extending off shore for about CO miles. This stream
runs along the coast of the continent, round Panama bay, and then sets with consider-
able force, especially in the dry season, southward down the western side of the bay.
After passing cape Mala it meets the Mexican current from the W.N.W. and thus
causes the numerous ripplings and short uneasy sea so often met with at the entrance
of the gulf. This troubled water will be found more or less to the southward, accord-
ing to the strength of the .contending streams.

FASSAOBS. — Bound to Panama: — From the foregoing it will be s en that the
passage from southward into the gulf of Panama is easily made during the vf'eater part
of the year, by keeping about 60 miles from the coast north of Guayaquil, and after
crossing the Line shaping a courso for Galera island, at the same time taking care,
especially 'n the dry season, to stand in-shore with the first northerly winds. By so
doing vessels will most probably have the current in their favour along the coast ;
whereas by keeping in the centre or on the western side of the gulf, a strong southerly
set will be experienced.

After making Galera and clearing the San Jose bank, the navigation between the
Pearl islands and the main is clear and easy, with the advantage of being able to anchor,
should the wind fail and the tide be against the vessel. As a rule, this passage should
be taken, but with a strong southerly wind, the navigator is teupted to run up the
bay, in which case he should keep towards the western shore of the Pearl islands,
where anchorage and less current will he found should the wind fail, an event always
to be expected in these regions.

Vessels bound to Panama from northward should make the island of Hicaron, which
lies about 50 miles westward of Mariato point, and from this endeavour to keep under
the land as far as cape Mala. If unable to do this, they should push across for the
opposite coast of the continent, when the current will bo found in their favour. On
getting eastward of cape Mala the safest plan is to shape a course for Galera island
and to use the eastern passage. At the same time, if tempted up the gulf by a fair
wind, vessels should endeavour to get on the western coast of the Pearl islands, which
have the advantages already explained.

Bound from Panama. — The great dilliculty, however, is the passage out of, or rather
from Panama bay. The best plan for sailing vessels, whether br un " north or south
from Panama, is to push to the southward and gain tlie South-east tr ulo ; by so doing
they will not only avoid the doldrums and vexatious winds before described, but will
Lave the additional advantage of salubrious weather, with the sea at a temperature of
75° instead of 88° Fahv. The passage northward has boon made by keeping close in
shore after passing cape Mala, and navigating by the sea and land breezes ; but this
should only bo attempted by vessels that are well found and manned, unless they are
bound to the ports of Central America, when it is their only route.

PASSAGES FROM THE GULF OF PANAMA.

■ n

The following directions, especially mtended for eailing vessels, are chiefly by Lient.
Maury, of the U.S. Navy : —

From the bay of Panama a vessel should make the best of her way south until she
gets between lat. 5° N. and the equator ; on this course lot her endeavour, if possible,
to keep near the meridian of 80° W. From this make a S.W. course if the winds will
allow. Should the wind be S.W. stand to the southward, but if S.S.W. stand to the
West, if a good working breeze ; but if it be light and baffling, with rain, the vessel
may know that she is in the doldrums, the quickest way to avoid which is by getting
to the southward.

From lat. 2° N., between June and January, vessels may stand off from the coast to
the westward, and pass northward of the Galapagos islands, taking care to keep south-
ward of 5° N. As far as 85° they will have South and S.S.W. winds ; but after passing
that meridian the wind will haul round to the southward, and vessels bound to the
South Pacific may consider themselves fairly in the trade. Vessels bound northward,
after passing the meridian of 105° may edge away for the Clipperton rock ; after
passing which they may push to the northward for the northern trade.

Between January and April it may be better to cross the Line between the Galapagos
islands and the coast before pushing to the westward. This may probably take a week,
which outlay of time, hnwAver. is far preferable to encountering the baffling weather
met in that season north of the Galapagos. In this route it must be remembered that
southward of lat. 1° N. the wind hauls to the eastward as the vessel leaves the coast,
and in the meridian of 88° it is frequently found eastward of South ; but at the same
time, vessels in standing off before crossing the equator, must take care to avoid being
driven to the northward of that latitude. In fact, there are few passages in which so
much depends on the skill and experience of the pilot as in leaving the gulf of Panama.

Vessels bound to the northward in the above season should keep south of the Line
until westward of 10o°, when a course may be shaped for 10° N. and 120° W., in which
track they will probably find the northern trade.

The above difficulties will be easily avoided by auxiliary screw steamers, which vessels
may at once proceed to the starting points above mentioned. The best plan will be to
steam for the meridian of 85° W. on the equator, from which position a course may be
shaped, according to their destination, and to the season of the year. From that
point their sails will be found to be as powerful as their engines.

The following facts will show the singular advantage uf even small steam power in
these regions : — In 1859, an indifferent, old, screw steamer, the Columbut, belonging
to the Panama Railway Company, had been running with great regularity for upwards
of a year botwoon Panama and San Jose de Guatemala, a distance of about 1020 miles,
calling at Puuta Arenas, Rcalojo, La Union, and Acajutla, both going and returning,
at each place discharging and receiving cargo and mails, — and sailing from Panama on
the 17th of every month, and returning to that port on the Gtli of the following ; thus
making the round in 19 days. It is estimated that it would take two months for a
ahi..^.- sailing vessel under favourable < nmstances to perform the same work.

CAPE MALA TO CAPE CORRIENTES.

Magnetic Variation in 1879 —At Coiba Island 6' 50' E. ; Oulf of Nicnija 6" 55' E. ;

Salinas Bay T 5' E. ; Oulf of Fonseca 7° 10' E. ; Acajutla or Soiisonate

Road T 25' E, ; Oulf of Tehuantepec T 50' E. ; Acapulco

8' 20' E. ; Manzanilla Bay 8° 80' E. ; Cape Corrientes d'E.

There is little, if any, annual change.

The coast from cape Mala trends sharply westward, and continues low so far as
Guanico point, a distance of 22 miles. From this point it gradually rises for 7 miles
to the Morro Puercos, a lofty headland, which forms the commencement of a range of
high coast land. North-eastward of Guanico point is an open bay, into which two
small rivers, the Tomosi and Juera, empty themselves.* From Puercos point the
coast trends 27 miles to Mariato point, a bold headland at the termination of the high
land of which Morro Puercos is the commencement. This point is a good landfall for
vessels boand to Panama from westward, as by keeping under the land eastward of it
they will avoid the southerly current setting from the gulf.

Frailes. — These are two low barren islets situated 11 miles south-westward from capo
Mala, and about 18 miles north-eastward from Puercos point. They are distant from
each other 2 miles in a N.N.W. \ W. and S.S.E. ^ E. direction, and are clear of outlying
dangers, with the exception that a reef extends out about a cable from the north-west
point of the southern islet. The depth within half a mile of them is 20 to 80 fathoms.

At 18 miles westward from cape Mala is a projecting point named Raia, off which is
an islet and reef of rocks, known as the Benado. At about midway between the
rivers Juera and Tomosi, is a patch of rooks at a short distance from the shore. A
reef, 8 fathoms under water, lies about 8 miles north-eastward from Puercos point,
and another, above water, is distant 4 miles westward from the point ; the latter is at
about a mile from shore. Thence to Mariato point, the soundings are very deep, as at
8 miles from the shore the bottom is not reached with a lino of 100 fathoms.

From Mariato point the coast trends 5 miles north-westward to Naraujas island, a
rocky but wooded islet lying about half a mile off a bluff ; it is steep, with 10 and 20
fathoms at a short distance from it. Northward of this islet the low laud again com-
mences, and continues into the bay of Montijo.

MOHTZjo BAT.->From point Mariato the coast trends N.N.W. 20 miles to the
eastern entrance of a largo bay, named Montijo. This bay extends northward about
14 miles, with an average breadth of miles, and is fronted by two islands, Cobaco
and Gobornador, of which the former is the larger and southernmost. Witlin the bay,
pear its head, is an islaud named Leones, having on each side of it a river accessible

* In this bay vessolB oooasionally anohor, with tho wind from tho land, near the islet Benado,
Bud obtain froBh-wator from thu river Juera. As the anchorage is exposed to southerly winds, it
can be oousidered uuly u temporary stopping place.

BAHIA HONDA.

only by boats. The bay is of little value to shipping, the soundings in it being ex*
tremely irregular, and over the greater part of its surface only 10 to 12 feet ; hence it
is but seldom visited.

Oebaeo is an island of irregular shape, 13 miles long in a N.E. by E. I E. and S.W.
^y W. i W. direction, and 3 miles wide at its eastern end, its broadest part. Some
detached rocks lie off its western end ; and a sunken rock lies abont a mile from its
eastern point, leaving no safe channel between. When entering the bay by this, the
east channel, it is necessary on account of this sunken rock to keep nearer to the main
than the island, — in steering thus the depth will be 12 to 10 fathoms ; continue now
in a north-westerly direction and pass St. Juan rock, distant about 1^ miles from the
land, on its west side ; -the depth will novr have decreased to 4 fathoms ; hence to the
east side of Leones island the passage is < westward of several rooks lying off the shore,
in soundings of 6, 7, and 9 fathoms.

oobaraador island, between the west '^nd of Cebaco and the main, is abont 1^ miles
in extent, and divides the western entrance of Moniijo bay into two channels, either of
which can be taken, although the northernmost is the better, being wider and less ex-
posed to the strong outward current from the bay. The depth in the southern channel
is 9 to 7 fathoms, and in the northern 16 to 6 fathoms. When the bay ia fairly entered,
vessels of light draught may anchor on its west side, and find good shelter from almost
all winds.

When tacking in Montijo bay the utmost caution is necessary on account of the
shoal of 12 feet which extends the whole length of the bay and connects the northern
side of Cebaco island with Leones island. This shoal occupies a large part of the sur-
face of the bay, and leaves but a narrow channel on each side of it.

BAHIA HONDA. — From Montijo bay to the entrance of Bahia Honda the distance is
20 miles in a W. by N. i N. direction, and the shore between is rugged with several
islets and rocks ofif it. At the distance of 2 miles from the land the soundings are 27
to 35 fathoms, the latter being in the vicinity of Bahia Honda. In the event of running
from one bay to the other,, the coast should have a berth of not less than 8 miles.

The bay consists of an inlet nearly 8 miles in extent in a N.E. direction, and about 2
miles broad, in which are soundings of 20 to 10 and 4 fathoms. It affords shelter
from all winds, and a birth may be selected according to circnrastances in almost any
part of it. The head of the bay, north-cast from Talon Island (subsequently men-
tioned) is shallow, but may be safely approached by the lead. When running in it is
only necessaiy to keep in mid-channel.

The entrance does not stand out with sufficient prominence to be distinguished from
a great distance, but a near approach reveals it with distinctness. The north point,
Guarida, is bold, with a dopth of 14 to 10 fathoms close to tlie rocks at its base. The
south point, capo Jabali, has two islets off it, named Scntinela and Cuui. of which the
former is the larger and northernmost ; these islands nro connected by a sunken reef,
and there in a narrow passage between them and the shore only suitable for boats.*

* TUe French olmrt No. 1703 shows a detached sunken reef at about one-sixth of a mile north-
eastward of Scntinela island. Although this rent does nut appear on the English (Admiralty) chart
No. 1929, it may possibly exist, and should therefore be carefully guarded against.

BAHIA HONDA.

Within the bay and immediately facing the entrance is Talon island, having two small
islets close to its west side, of which the larger aud nortberninost is named Pueril ; the
island close to its south end is named Espuela. Talon island is about 120 feet high,
and divides Bahia Honda into two parts, known as Chiuche and Legamo bays ; Chinche
bay is west of the island. Only vessels of very light draught can pass round the
north end of Talon island. In 1854, the island was inhabited by some Indian families,
from whom were procured eggs, fowl, and various kinds of fruits, and as the bay affords
abundance of excellent fish, such could also without doubt have been obtained from
them.

Fresh-water can be procured here in great abundance and especially from a stream
named Cobre, which falls into tl j south-east part of the harbour, and can be ascended
some distance in a canoe. There is a watering place on the sooth side of the bay,
S.S.E. from Talon island ; a boat may in calm weather anchor alongside it and obtailn
supplies by means of a long hose. Very good water may also be procured from a
cascade outside the harbour, on the north shore, at about 1^ miles from point Guarida.

It has been mentioned that anchorage can be obtained in almost any part of Bahia
Honda, but that which is perhaps the most convenient for large vessels is westward of
Talon island, in Chinche bay, in about 14 fathoms water. The only known dangers
in the vicinity of this anchorage are a sunken rock of 8 feet at 1^ cables northward of
point Guarida, and a reef at about the same distance north-westward from Fueril
island.

Tides : — When the French surveying vessel Oiligado was at Bahia Honda, in 1854,
the tidal observations showed the flood aud ebb to have nearly equal strength, of the
two the ebb preponderating. High water at full aud change 8h. 80m., and the sea
rose 1\\ feet.

Making Bahia Honda. — Coiba island and the little island Afuera (between Coiba
and the main) immediately face Bahia Honda, hence these islands will be first seen
from whatever quarter tho ba; is made. At about 2 raWet from the harbour are two
islands named Medidor and Pacor ;■ . tuated off the north shore, of which the former
is the larger, of moderate height aud nearer the laud ; these islands must be left io
northward when running for .he bay. The entrance is by no means difficult, but it is
recommended to avoid the southern headland because of the reefs surrounding Seu-
tinela aud Cono islands.

heaving Bahia Honda. — The most convenient time for leaving Bahia Honda is
during the morning, because then advantage can be taken of the East and N.E. winds.
If these winds ara weak it may bo necessary to haul the vessel out by the boats.

Monita and Bosario Bays. — The coast from Bahia Honda northward, a distance of
10 miles, is very irregular and forms several bays, of which those named Monita,
Bosario and Pajaro are the principal. Th« first mentioned bay is immediately north-
ward of point Ventana, 2 miles from Medidor island ; it has an islet covered with trees
in its northern part close to tho shore, aud affordc good anchorage and shelter only
with winds from the land, being exposed to all others. Nortli of Mouita bay is Bosario
bay, which will be easily recognised by an islet near its middle, at about a mile from

* Named Truoha in Sir Edward fielohor's (R. N.) chart, No. 192'J.

!'*'

PUEBLO NUEVO.

tbe shore, named Maela h Caballo ; thia bay is bonndcd on the north by point Maerto
and on the south by point Gorda, between which ia a projecting point dividing the bay
into two parts, the southern of which takes the name of Pivay, — in each of these little
bays is a river. As Rosario bay is exposed to westward, the anchorage is safe only
with winds from the land. Pajaro bay, immediately northward of that of Rosario, has
a depth of 16^ fathoms, and is also unsafe with winds from westward. All this coast
is free from danger at a moderate distance off.

The shore from Pajaro bay northward for a distance of 9 miles ia fronted by a bank
of 6 to 18 feet which extends out about 2 miles. The edge of this bank being very
steep renders the utmost caution necessary in approaching; at night a depth of 22 to
16 fathoms will be quite near enough; — usually, the sea breaks heavily upon it. At
the south end of this bank ia the river Lavenia, and at the north end the river Tava-
sera; the latter is not barred.

WEBLO ifinivo. — At about 8^ miles northward of the Tavasera is point Cayado,
the south side of entrance to the river of Pueblo Nn '"o. The entrance to this river
may be at once recognised by the peculiar formatio' he hills between it and Tava-

sera river, which are 800 to 400 feet high, and app . two islets from a distance.

A hill 650 feet high, and having the form of a sugar-loaf, situated close to the shore
on the north side of the river, is also a good landmark. In front of the entrance,
almost due West from it, are two islets named Silva and Silva de Afhera, of which the
latter is the westernmost ; these are also good marks for the river.

In the entrance to the river are two large marshy islands formed of the soil brought
down by floods; these are named Espartal and Porcada, — the latter is the southern-
most. The channel between the islands is too shallow, and too much obstructed by
shoals to be navigated except at high tide, and then only by boats, the entrance to the
river is consequently south of the islands between them and point Cayado, and is about
three-quarters of a mile wide ; the channel north of the islands is also unnavigable.
The depth in the principal channel, in 1854, was G to 8 fathoms at low tide, and it
was then sheltered on the north aide by the Belitre bank, partially dry when the tide
was out, extending westward from the south end of Porcada. Immediately within or
eastward of this bank is a rocky islet named Perdono.

The best time to enter the river of Pueblo Nuevo is during the flood and with the
wind from seaward. Special care ia required on account of the shoal extending aea-
ward from Porcada islet, the limits of which are indicated by breakers while there is
any sea. Having entered, steer for Perdono islet and pass it on its south side ; the
depth hereabout will be 4} fathoms, deepening to G^ and 7 fathoms, fine sand. Good
anchorage may be found ioimediately southward \.>i Perdono islet, in 4 to 6 fathoms
water.

Perdono islet is steep and safe to approach; it may bo rounded (1854), but there
will be little occasion to go north of it, the chanuel south of it being wide and the main
body of the river. In the event of going north of it, keep close to it on account of the
shoal from Porcada island. Tbe depth eastward of the south point of Porcada island
is very irregular, and frequently does not exceed 8} fathoms ; hence it is not a con-
venient anchorage for large vessels, but for small vessels drawing less than IG feet it

PUEBLO NUKVO.

offers the advantage of being well shut in and protected from almost all windp.
According to the inhabitanta, westerly winds, freqnent from Jane to October, occasionally
send into the river a very heavy sea, which caases considerable inconvenience to vespels
anchored near Perdono island ; at such times it will be advisable to ran farth( r into the
river, and obtain shelter under the south-east side of Porcada, — the best passage is
westward of Conejo, an island situated about a mile from Perdono.

The village of Paeblo Nuevo is at some distance within the river, and such is the
difficulty of the navigation 1>hat it is necessary to be guided to it by a native. Here,
although it is but a small place, almost all kinds of provisions can be obtained in con-
siderable quantities.*

The best time to leave the river is when the land-wind is blowing and a little before
the end of the flood. Steer so as to give point Cayado a berth of about a cable, and
pass southward of the islands Silva and Silva de Afuera, after which such a course
' may be run as may be convenient. If necessary, a vcoctel may run between the two
Silvas, but the channel eastward of the easternmost islet is safe only for those that
draw 10 to 15 feet ; an isolated rock off the north-west side of Porcada, at three-
quarters of a mile from shore, must be carefully avoided. Tbe north end of Silva
island has a shoal extending from it nearly a mile.

Tides. — It is high water full and change at 8b. 44m. The tide apparently rises
8 to 9 feet.

The foregoing description of the river of Paeblo Nnevo is based chiefly upon the
observations of the French surveying vessel Ohligado in 1854. According to the chart
of Sir Edward Belcher, B.N., 1859, a spit of 2^ fathoms runs off about a cable from
the west side of point Cayado, and on the south side of the point are some rocks close
to the shore, named Nueces, which are above water. The shoal extending northward
from Silva island has not more than 10 feet on its extremity, and as it nearly joins the
sandy spit jutting out from the north end of Porcada island, the channel north of the
island cannot be considered safe. The soundings between the Silva islands are 9 to 12
fathoms, the latter being near Silva de Afuera. Sir Edwai-d Belcher says, " the port
consists of the outlet of a largo river, which takes its name fr-om a small village of huts,
situated on the river Santiago, at some distance from the entrance. It is formed by a
neck or island about 8 miles in length, which affords good anchorage for vessels of any
class. Three larger streams discharge themselves into the main basin at the western
end of this inland, where the apparent great entrance is situated ; but so studded with
rooks and shoals, as to be unnavigable for anything larger than boats. It is in fact,
an extensive archipelago, as most of the regions towards the Chiriqui territory will be
found to be on future examination.

Water cannot be procured in any quantity, although it may probably be procured by
digging Wills. The principal article of trade was sarsaparllla, that of this neighbour-
hood being esteemed of superior quality. The stream runs fresh at some miles up,
but we did not either meet it, or succeed in finding the town. Sugar-cano, of good

It is said that the serpents in tbe various islands of tbe river, and also in tbo maruhy lanri im-
mediately bordering it, ore of a veuomoaa obarooter.

SAN LOREVZO AND DAVID BAYS.

quality, <va8 offered ; and tortoise shell, one of the articles of trade, can be procared
at the BL'iSon."

The OOilBT from Pueblo Nuovo lakes a siuldea turn in a westerly direction, and at
the diptancrt of 23 miles is point Juco or Ojo, the east side of David Bay. Nearly all
this shore is low and fronted by a sandy strand. In the interior, at about 12 miles
from the sea, is a chain of mountains of consideiablo ultitude, one of tlio peaks, in lat.
8° 23', long, 81° 55', being 3140 f(;ot high ; the country at the foot of these mountains
consists in general of a well wooded plain. The entrances of the various rivers can
usually be easily recognised by the white trunks of the mangrove trees, only the tops
of which are in leaf ; these rivers are barred, and the approach to them is known better
by the nature of the bottom than by the depth, it being sandy in their immediate
vicinity and muddy outside. Along all t'uis coast as far as David bay there are no
knovm sunken dangers, and vessels may run along it at the distance of 2 or 3 miles in
soundings of 11 to 9J fathoms. At about IB miles from Pueblo Nuovo is the com-
mencement of some cliffs of a red colour, which are very conspicuous ; these continue
some distance, and then the coast turns oharply southward and forms point Juco, the
east side of David bay. On the east side of point Juco are some islands named Benado,
which are a good mark for the bay to vessels approaching from eastward.

Ban Xiorenio Bay. — The bond of the coast just mentioned, terminating in point Jnco,
forms a bay named San Lorenzo, from a river of that name which falls into it. It is
BO thickly strewn with rocks that all vessels should avoid entering il ; from the same
cause the river cannot be approached except in boats. There is rather a considerable
village on this river at a few miles from the sea.

DAVID BAT is included between Juco point and a large island named Parida, Hi
miles south-westward from the point. In it are numerous islands and rocks, but with
the assistance of the Admiralty chart No. 2816, little dilliculty will be experienced in
selecting an anchorage. At about a mile south-westward from Juco point are two islets
connected together and surrounded by a reef, named Monitas, the southern of which
boars a close resemblance to a saddle ; aud, at 2ij miles S. i W. from these islets is
an isolated rock named Viuda, having a reef extending from it about half a mile in an
E. by B. i S. direction — as this rock and I'oef are both steep, with soundings im-
mediately around them of 10 to 12 fathoms, they rtsquire great care to avoid. It is
said that to vossols approaching David ' .." from southwanl the presence of the Viuda
reef may generally be known by breakers, but whether this be the case or not, it is a
very formidable danger.*

In nearly the middle of David bay is a very dangerous rock named El Hueif which
is only visible at half tide, and for which unfortuna^ol) .o well defined landmarks can
bo given. Its position is 3 niileb W. by N. from the soutliornniost Monitas islet, and
about Ijf miles N.E. )t E. from the lurj^ost San Jose islet. Its extent is but small,
and tho soundings close to it are 6 to 7 fathoms.

• A BUiik u ruck, tlie I'xiHioiicu r)l' wliicli tluii'i' is groat rnaHon to dimbt, linit boon reportoil at about
4 niiloB S.B.K. froai tho Viuilft. The l'"i'oaoh hiirvoyiiiK viiikoI OIHijuiIk Hotinht lo« it uiiBuo'U'BHfiilly,
aUhoU'{li UBHiHtud in tho sourch by a iiativo of tlin 0(Miiitry, wlio Htntod thiit ho bnd noon thn broakcra
upon it. Tlio ilillloulty of fliidiiii,' iin IsolntcMl Buiikcn rook iu doop watur is well known ; hsuoo it
will bo prudent to ox^roiae luovo tlmn oidiuary vigilauoo whou in tho vicinity of tliii roportod dnuyor.

DAVID BAY.

David bay is so namod from tlio river vrVijcli fhlls into it, upon A.hioh is situated at
the distance of 3^ leagues in the interior tie principal city of the province of Chiriqui
in the state of Panama ; tho city boars tlio inmies of David or David Chiriqiii, and is in
lut. 8° 27', lonj^. 82" 26' ; it can only bu reached by boats, throup;li a very intricate
navigation.* At a short distance to tho westward is the boundary between tho Con-
federation of New Granada, and tiie Republic of Costa Rica.

The channel between tho Monitas islands and point Juco is not considered safe,
although the depth is 7 to 8 fiitboms ; hence vessels seeking tho anchorage in David
bay almost invariably pass southward of those islands, between them and the Viuda
rock, or between tho latter and tho islets off the east side of Parida island. The mark
to steer for is the Sun Jose islands, a small group of islands 4 miles westward of the
Monitas ; as those are covered with trees, and at low water tho little sandy channels
which separate them become dry, Ihoy are easily recognised. Vessels may approach
tho San Jose islands to a moderate distance, if ordinary precaution be taken to avoid
any undiscovered outlying danger thcro may bo about ; having made tho islands, bear
up a little northerly and arudior, or anchor about midway between tho islands and tho
Monitas. The only known sunken reef in tho bay is tho Buey rock, already mentioned,
for which a good look-out must be maintained.

Buey rock, being an isolated danger at a considerable distance from shore, can bo
passed on all sides. To pass it on the nr^t side, give San Jose islets a berth of about
half a mile, and steer with them bearing South to S. by W., until the bottom changes
from mud to gravel, when tho vessel will bo inside tho rock. If, on the contrary, tho
intention be to go enstirard of tho rock, pass the Monitas on tho south side, and steer
for Carre island, 1^ miles W.N.W. from Juco point, and afterwards continue along the
sooth side of the chain of islets as far as the entrance to Boca Chica, off which there id
anchorage in -IJ to 5 fathoms. This anchorago is safe during the fine season, as it
affords good shelter from tho prevailing breezes, and especially from northerly winds,
which at thut time have occasionally considerable strength ; but during winter, when
S.W. winds [ ovail, it is better to anchor farther out under shelter of tho San Jose
islets.

x'he coast north of tho chain of islands cxtondlug from Juco point to tho entrance of
Boca Chica forms a bay named Playa Grando, in tho north-eastern part of which is aa

• The eily of Daviil liRd in 1861 a pniiulatiou of nbout fiOOO. Its diHtftnco (Vom tho sea Is about 10
inilcB, but tlio Dopa Knn Pedro, the uioutli of th.o river Dnvi.l nearest to it, hna a bnr across it wliioh
Is, wp bt'lieve, so Khallow ns to \w luijmKMiblo ; henoo vessels are obli(;;e{l to resort to tlio Uocn Cliioa,
lis iiiiioH oastwurd of it, 'imking a total lUstaiifo of 'Jli milos from tlio city. Around tlio city aro
euitiTstod lands wliioli roach to tlio foot of tho extinct vOoii'.o oi «. liiri(iui. There is but little
commerce, and Hint clihn" with Piuiiunn,

From tho summit ot the voii^mio otOliirii|ui thn waters of tho Atlantioaiid Pnclfiooanbe porcoivod,
Kud it has been proposod to eonsliucta rsilwiiy noross the level country bolwoi'ii the two oceans. It
ia said that there are no ntiHlaohiH to the coustruetlon of sueli a means of eonnnuniuatioii (greater than
ftu euKiueer of avi>rii|;e iiliilily woulil be able to ovi'rronio willi ciise. The proposed route was from
Almiraiitebay on the north side ol'thi' iHlbnius, to David bay on the smtth nide, taking thn city of
David on Mio way ; hence veHsels would have a shcllercd ancliornKf at each terminuH. A lied of coal uf
oousidorabij vhIuo Iravcrsea the whole dlHlanoo.

W-

1 •

BOCA CHICa and PARIDA ISLAND.

inlet, known aa Ghneltogal bay. Flaja G^rande has not beea closely examined, and is
reported to have many sunken reefs in it ; tho eounflliugs over its surface are probably 4
to 8 fathom?. The country behind Chuchegal bay affords abundaat pasturage for cattle.
Boea obioa, the narrow channel between Paino and Yentana islands, is 8^ miles
W.N.W. from Juco point, and is the only entrance to the river David practicable for
vessels, which must be of very light draught, there being at low tide only G to 10 feet
water in some parts of it. Boca Chica may be r^ogniscd by the rocks of Ventana
island, which have been pierced by the sea. On the eatit side of the entrance is a rock
named Lavandera, an isolated danger visible except near high wat^r, situated about 1^
sable? southward from Saino island, and which must be carefully guarded against, thero
being a depth of 4 and 6 fathoms close to its south side.

At the village of Boca Chica (also known as Puerto de San Lorenzo), on the north
side of the river and 8i miles from the sea, the usual articles of provision can bo
procured, such as poultry, eggs, fruits, vegetables, &c. Meat cannot be ohiaincd in
any quantity, but cattle can be oought without ditllculty. Fresh water of excellent
quality can be got from the stream immediately east of the village.

Tiden. — It is high water on the days of fall and cbaugo of the moon at Boca Chica
at 8h. 15m. The rise of tide is about lOj feet. During the Ohlii/ado'a visit, the
flood at the anchorage outside the cnirauce was observed to Aow N.N.W., and the ebb
the contrary, with an average strength of 1 milo per hour, which diminished in foico
towards the San Joso and Monitas islands. Within the entrance and in the river, the
current was much more violent.

When leaving David bay, if obliged to go westward of the San Joso islands, it is
recommended to approach nearer those islands than to Palenque, because of the rocks
extending from the latter ; the dopth in the channel between is G and 7 f&thoms. In
the French chart No. 281G a sunken rock of 11,^ feet is inserted at about half-a-milo
westward of the south part of the San Jos«'> islets. Having cleared thi:^ sunken rock, a
wide berth should be given to some rocks situated 1 i miles almost due South from the
San Josu islets ; the depth throughout is 8 and fiithoms.

rarlda islanA. — This is an island of irrc;»ulrtr shape, 8] miles long in a N.N E. and
S.S.W. direction, and about 1.^ miles wide in its broiulest part, it is well wooded and
there are rivulets affording abundance of wuler. Nuuiurons islets, having among
them many sunken reefs, are scattered uhout on its oiiHt and south-east sidci to the
distance from it of 8 to 1 miles, the largest (and almost furtliost to seaward) of which is
named Boiano ; these islets and reefs make the approach to David bay from south-
westward a proceeding of some little risk. Among the islets and reefs there aro
doubtless chauuols which might be navigated in boats, but vessels must keep outside
them, as they havo not boon closely exnniincd.

The only commodious anchorngc near I'arida island is at its north-east end, under
protection of uu island which offords shcUer from soiitliwnrd ; the depth is (»i falhonia
on mud, and thero is a little sandy bay wliore a landing can bo effected. If from David
bay, vessels may pass either on the west or south sides of Han Joso islands ; if the
former, it is necessary in the boards to westward to tack iniiiMHliately tlio depth becomoa
4j fathoms. If this anchorage bo approached from seaward, steer for thu Viuda rock,

POINT BURRICA AND COIBA ISLAND.

aad, passing it at the distanco of aboct Ij miles on the west siJo, direct yonr course
for the San Jose islands ; leave these islands to the northward, and then steer for the
north end of Parida island, maintaining a dopth of 7 to G fathoms, but decrensing to
8i fathoms as the anchorage is approached ; — wten it deepens again to GJ fathoms,
Anchor. The lead should be kept going, and a good look-out kept for any undiscovered
sunken rocks. At this end of Ptirida plenty of good water may be obtainoi.

Cldmiiio bay, — At the south-west end of Parida island is a little bay named Chimmo,
where is a depth of 10 to 2.J fathoms ; good fresh-water may bo obtained here. In
front of the bay is a little islet known by the name of Santa Cruz ; the passage in is
north of this islet, because some rocks extend from it southward to the shore. A reef
also runs off southward a shoit distance from some islets on the north side of the bay^

When Bailing round tho south-woat point of Parida island, it should have a berth of
about; a mile, on account of some sunken rocks, half a mile from it, which have a depth
of 15 and Ifl fathoms cKise to them.

From Purida island northward lo the archipelago of islotsfrontir,^ tho coast, there is»
with the exception of a narrow channel of 8 to 3| faJioms close round tlio nortli ud of
the island, a bed of rocks through which there may be channels fit for boats. Tho sea
usually break- upon these reofn when there is any wind,

Point Burrica. — From th<' south end of Parida island to tho extremity of point
Buri'i tho bearing and distance are W. by S. i S. 84 miles. Tho coast between forma
aliirgt, <,,y which recedes 20 miles from a supnDsed line connecting tbuse points. Tho
shore in the nast pnif of the bay oonsists if low islands forming tb. delta of il;3 rivor
David. Tho prj'iiupui entrance to the river, tho Boca Han Pedro, is between Hevillia
and Bau Pedro islands, and a« alreuiy noticed is impracticablo for vossola. ISovillia is
the easternmost island ; it abounds with i;aiuo of various kinds, which can easily be
obtained. San Pedro is the wmtorumo!-. ifilio luige islands if the river ; from this
island the coant trends westvard and southward to point Burrica, and along the
northorn shore are met with in succession the rivers Piodra, Pinos and Bartolomo. In
all this bay thero is no sheltered roadstead, nor does it possess any advantage which
fihould make it a placo of resort l'<'i- \ ols.

OOXBA xsZiAns. — Thi < is t! rgcst island off the coast between ]\Iariato and
Burrica points, as it is 19 miles long in a N.W. by N. and S.E. by S. direction, and
about 12 miles wide in its broadest part. It is covered with forests, and there ia
abnndance of good water in every part. Vessels may anchor off it on all sides '''na(
fine weather, but uul'ortunately it possesses no bay nor harbour in which shelter m ,., bo
obtained from all winds. As it is at present (1851) uniuhabitod, it is seldom visited.
It was suivoyed in IBifl by Lieut. Wood, K.N., and a chart (No. Iij28) of it was
subsequently published by the yVdiniralty. To this chart we nmst refer the reader, for
tho variou'^ details of its const and outlying reefs.

The western coast ofCoiba ishuul appears, from tho survey, to be of moderato height,
and bold, and there are no known dangers outside those abutting on lliu shore. At
about halfway down thero is an open bay, mimed Uermosa, in which is a depth of 20 to
14. fathoms.

Ou the eastern coast of tho island is Danias bay, C ur U miles in extent, which

i> 2

COIBA ISLAND.

affords a good depth of water and excellent shelter from westward. The Bonndings arc
from 30 to 15 t'lthoms, shoaling to the shore ; and water may be obtained in the
northerL part of the bay. Good holding ground, mud, will be found 5 or 6 mileso AT
shore, in 80 to 85 fathoms. Off the southern shore of the bay rocky slioals extend
nearly a mile out, so that care is required to avoid them. Tu the middle of the bay
the land is low, and hove there is a small stream, named San Juan, at the entrance to
which are some sandy flats.

Few vegetables or fruits are to bo found hero, but shell-fish may be bad in plenty ;
there ore also other fish to bo caught. Whales sometimes frequent these shores, but
not in any great numbers. Wild beasts, birds and reptiles ai'c said to abound, hence
a visit to the island should bo conducted with caution.

In the account of Lord Anson's voyage, by Richard Walter, published in 1776, thero"
is a description of Coiba island, in the following terms. It should be premised that
the anchoring place of the squadron was in Damas bay : — ■

" The island of Coiba is cxti'emely convenient for wooding and watering, since the
trees grow close to the high-water mark, and a largo rapid stream of fresh water mn8
over the sandy beach into the sea : so that wo were little more than two days in laying
in all the wood and water we wanted. The whole island is of a very moderate height,
excepting one part. It consists of a continued wood spread all over the whole surface
of tho country, which preserves its verdure all the year round. Amongst other wood,
we found abundance of cassia, and a few lime trees. It appeared singular to ns, that,
considering the climate and the shelter, we should soe no other birds than parrots,
paroquets, and mackaws ; indeed, of these last there were prodigious flights. Next to
these birdn, the animals we found in most plenty, were monkeys and iguanas, and these
wo frequently killed lor food ; for, notwithstanding there were many herds of deer opon
the place, the ditRciilty of penetrating the woods prevented our coming near them ; so
that, though wo saw thorn often, wo killed only two during our stay. Our prisoners
assured us that this island abounded with tigers ; and we did once discover the print of
a tiger's paw upon the beach, but the tigern themselves wo never saw. The Spaniards,
too, informed us, that there was frequently found in the woods a serpent, called tho
flying snake, which, they said, darted itself from tho boughs of trees, on either man or
beast that came within its reach ; and whose sting they belicvow to be inevitable death.
Bosidei these dangerous land auimais, iho sea hereabout is infested with numbers of
alligators of enormous size.

Whilst tho ship (Centurion > mtiuued hero at anchor, tho Connnodoro, attended by
some of his officers, went in a boat to exaniine a bay which lay to the northward ; and
they afterwards ranged all along tho eastern side of tho island ; and in the places where
they put "on shore, in tho cours(5 of this expedition, tlieylgenerally found tho soil to bo
extremely rich, and met with great plenty of excellent water. In iturticuliir, near tho
north-east puint of tho island, tlii7 dineovered a natural casr^ule, which Rurpassod, as
they conceived, everything of this kind they had over soon. It was u river of clear
water, about lOyards wide, which rolled down a declivity nearly 150 feet in longth. All
tho uoighbourliodd of this stream was a lino wood, and cvon tho huge masses of rock
which overhung the water, and whieh, by their various projections, formed tho iu-
cqualitios of tho channel, wore covered with lofty forest trees."

HICARONS, RANCHERIA, &c., CONTRERAS.

Bear-Admiral Sir Greorgo Seymoar has remarked of Coiba island, " It is about the
same size as tho Islo of Wight. Off the points, ledges of rocks generally extend ; but
there is an appearance of an anchorlug-place in the intervening bays on tho east side,
along which I proceeded in tho Sampson steam-vessel. The soil on the coast is good,
bat the interior is nearly inaccessible from tho steepness of the cliffs and tangled vegeta-
tion. We found traces of pearl-divers having visited tho shores ; but there ai"e no
inhabitants (1847) except at tho small islet of Rancheria, between which and the north-
cast end of Coiba there is good anchorage. A Frenchman, of the name of Sorget, is
resident on Rancheria ; and this situation, as far as I could judge on a cursory view,
seems more favourable for an establishment than any wo saw ou the larger island."

Tides. — When Coiba island was visited by navigator Colnett, in 1794, the flood
came from north v^ard, flowing seven hours and ebbing Ave, and tho perpendicular riso
of the tide was 2 fathoms.

Btearons. — Southward of Coiba are tho Hicarons, two small islands lying north and
south of each other, being separated by a narrow channel. The small island, the
southernmost, about a milo in extent, is entirely covered with cocoa-trees ; and the
large one, 3J miles long, bears an equal appearance of leafy verdure, but there are
very few trees of tbo cocoa kind. Hicaron is 830 feet high, and tho most extensive
look-out, says Captain Colnett, is from tho top of this island, for it commands Coiba
and the whole of tho coast and bay to tlio northward. Tho small island is known as
Ilicarita. Tho approximate geographical position of tho south point of tho southern-
most island is lat. 7" 12' 10 ", long. 81° il.'

The channel between Hicaron aiul Coiba is about 4 miles wide, o,nd has an irregular
depth of 6 to 10 fathoms. It is cKnir of sunken rocks ; but as there aro somo dangers
uoar the south-east point of Coiba, it will bo moro prudent to pass southward of the
islands than to attempt the passage within theui. Tho principal danger to be avoided
is tho Hill rock, a small patch of feet water, lying 2 miles H. } E. from llarca island,
a small islet close to the shore of Coiba, and 5i miles E. ■] N. from David point, tho
eastern point of Uicaron island ; close to this rock are soundings of 10 to 15 fathoms,
80 that it is very dangerous.

B«nota«ria, ftc. — Oil' tho north-oast point of Coiba island aro several islets and rocks.
Tho largest islet, named Rancheria, is IJ miles in length, and lies about IJ miles from
tho shore, from which it is separated by a channel of 7 and 8 fathoms, but, as thoro
are sovoral rocks in this psissiigo, it will not bo prudent to attempt to run througli. i=
North-eastward of this, about 4^ miles, aro two smaller islets, named Afuora and
Afuerita, which aro surrounded (for a very short distance) by rocks. A reef extends
from tho south-cast point of At'uorti. tho larger island, about 2 cables ; at its extremity
is a black rock, almoxt covenul at lii^'li tide.

Contraraa. — Tliis group is about it) inilos northward from Coiba, and is composed
of two principal islands surrounded by many small islets and rocks. Tho northern
island is named Uriucanco, tho southern Pajaros. Among them thoro is no good anchor-

• Tliero in good aiifiliornun H.H.1'1. of RuiiolKrm, opiKiHito a munly l)i'n(*li, wlioiicp wood and water
OAU be oaitily pruciirud from tliu iBliiiid. Honiu Biiollcr is fiiriiiiilRHl by ii liitjli vumid iHlniid.

GULF OF DULCE, Ac.

age. The OlUgado anchored north of Brincanco in 1854, opposite a little bay in
which were anchored the boats of some pearl and tnrtle fishers, and foand the battom
very bad for holding, although composed of gravel.

Vessels may approach the Gontreras without hesitation if due precaution be taken,
as it is believed that there are no sunken dangers among them, the positions of which
are not shown by breakers. The soundings immediately around them are 30, 85 and
40 fathoms, the latter being close to their south-west side, and there is a clear channel
between the two large islands in which the depth is 83, 21, and 84 fathoms. At about
2 miles south from the islands is the Prosper rock, a pinnacle having the appearance
of a black tower ; uUhough this roek is steep on all sides, it will be prudent not to'
attempt to pass between it and the islands on account uf a reef partially dry at low tide
situated about midway in the channel.

Peqas. — This group of islets and rocks is situated nearly 15 miles fVom the coast
between Pueblo Nuevo aud David bay. About and among them are no known sunken
rocks, the positions of which are not usually indicated by breakers. Here there is
good shelter for small vessels, and upon some of the islands a landing may be effected,
but there is very little inducement to go ashore as no water can be obtained. If the
approach of night or failure of wind oblige a vessel in their vicinity to anchor, the best
anchorage is in 10 to 12 fathoms on sand.

At about 3 miles eastward from the Sooas is a dangerous rock named Bruja, which
is almost awash at low tide. T4ie position of this reef makes it a very formidable danger,
especially at night ; there are souuJIugs of 20 to 21 fathoms close around it.

BKontaosa. — This little island is situated about 22 miles westward from Coiba island,
its approximate geographical position being hit. 7° 28', long. 82° 14.J^'. It rises to a
considerable height, ami has its summit covorod with cocoa and other trees. A
narrow roof, above and under water, extends from it about 3 miles in a north-westerly
direction, aud a reef also runs otf from its soutli-oast side. Oaptain Colnett landed
here in 1794. He mentions that the bottom on the south side of the island, aud also
the shore near the Hoa is rocky. A sandy beach was found behinu iomo little crcoka
between the rocks which all'orded a safe landing fur boats.

Ziadronas. — These are two islands situated about 15 miles southward of Parida island,
their approximate geographical position being about hit. 7° 52', long. 82° 25'. They
are barren, of modorato height, aud together are not more than a mile in extent. They
should bo approached with caution as sunken rocks may exist in their vicinity. The
only known dangers aro some rooks about a mile uoi'thward of thorn, aJid a roof is
reported to lie 4 or 5 iniloR from them in the same direction, upon which at low tide is a
depth of only Ofoot; as tlie jmsition of this lultor is uncertain, and as it is only shown
by breakers when there is a stifl' breeze, it must be very carefully guarded against.

ovi^r or DULOB,— Point b..«i»«, tiio extremity uf the laud on the south-east side
of the gulf of Dulce, appears like uu island at adlstanco, and maybe readily recognised,
whether seen from south-westward or south-eastward. It advances seaward consider-
ably from the main hind, and its summit rises into three hills of apparently equal height
and distance from eacli other. A nearer approach brings into view the low point which
tecniinatus it ; this also rcsemblus an island from a distance. At rather uuoro than a

GULF OF DULCE. 89

mile from its extremity is a high isolated rock, serving as an excellent object for recog-
nition when making the laud from seaward ; in the channel between, and also around
this rock are breakers, upon which account it will be prudent for vessels to give it a
wide berth. Point Burica is sufficiently lofty to be seen in clear weather from a distance
of about B5 miles ; in its vicinity the flood tide sets N.W. with some strength, hence
it is recommended to avoid being becalmed on its south-east side.

From point Burica the coast trends about 12 miles in a north-westerly direction to
point Platanal, at the entrance to the gulf of Dulce. It is bold throughout, especially
at point Platanal, where the mountain immediately over it rises to the height of 2,330
feet, and faces the sea in an almost perpendicular' cliff. This mountain is succeeded in
a northerly direction by a moderately flat country, not visible from a distance, hence
the cause of the land between points Burica and Platanal appearing like an island from
seaward. It is said that in all this coast there is but one place where a landing can
be effected, and that is in a little rocky creek into which a rivulet falls.

With a westerly wind it will be advisable to give the coast just described a wide
berth. Although not absolutely unsafe, the sea in its vicinity is very deep and rocky.
At 2 miles from the land the lead fails to touch the bottom, sounding 80 fathoms, and
with a strong wind from south-westward breakers of extreme violence are to be met
with in-shore. For these reasons, vessels bound into the gulf of Dulce are advised to
bear away for cape Matapalo, the western side of the gulf, after making point Burica ;
within the cape is good anchorage and a more moderate depth of water.*

The gulf of Dulce extends into the Innd about 40 miles in a north-westerly direction,
with an average width of 14 to 10 miles. It is but little fretjuented, and until 1852
was almost unknown to Europeans ; at that time its population consisted only of 12 to
15 families located at point Arenitas, on the west side of the gulf. Its soil is extremely
fertile, and it is asserted that its navigation is by no means difficult. It possesses
numerous excellent anchorages, and there are no known sunken dangers at a greater
distance from the land than a mile, with the exception of the bank facing the river
Goto, on the east shore, at about 15 miles within the entrance ; this is the principal
danger in the gulf, but as the sea almost always breaks upon it, and its position is well
indicated by the soundings in its viciuity, there is but little difficulty in avoiding it.

Cap* Katapaio, on the west side of the entrance to the gulf of Dulce, is high, pre-
cipitous and covered with trees ; whore the trees have fallen on the steep slopes the
soil has a reddish appearance. This cape is the south-east'^rn termination of the high
laud Sal-si-puodes, which can be seen from a considerable distance ; hence, with the
high land terminating at point Burica, the situation of the gulf of Dulce is well marked.
At about a milo from the capo in an E.S.E. direction there is a rock 10 to 12 foot
high, known as Matnpalo rock, which stands out promiuently from the coast, and when
viewed from south-westward or north-eastward, appears very conspicuously ; it is safo
tu approach, but as there are breakers between it and the land, vessels should always

* It is probable that the width of the eutrdii e to the gulf ia not bo great as represented ou the charts.
The distance between point Platanal and capo Matapalo is reported by many observers to bo not more
than 10 miles.

GULF OF DULCE.

pass it on its south side. The coast on the opposite side of tho gulf is bolioved to bs
clear of all outlying dangers, but what are visible.

All the western shore of the gulf consists of a flat well wooded country, sandy to tho
village of Arenitas, and afterwards alluvial. At about 6 miles northward from Mata-
palo rock is point Sombrero, from which a reef extends about half a mile ; and 8 miles
farther in the same direction is Tigrito point, also having a reef from it to the distance
of three-quarters of a mile— these reefs are the only known dangers on the western side
of the gulf which vessels have to fear in the approach to Arenitas from southward.

Punta Arenitaa. — At about 9 miles from Tigrito point is Punta (or point) Arenitas^
a low sandy projection of the coast, the greater part of which ia covered with trees.
The houses which formerly stood on its extremity have been destroyed by an earth-
quake, and the inhabitants, numbering about 400, have established themselves a little
iarther north and have named their village Santo Domingo. At about a cable east-
ward from the point, is a coral bank, which partially di'ies at low tide ; this bank has an
extent of only 2 cables from cast to west, and as its eastern edge is so steep that
Boandings of 14 to 12 fathoms may be obtained close to it, more than ordinary care is
required when approaching the point. Small vessels may pass between this bank and
the shore, the narrow channel having a depth in it of IG to 13 feet ; it is necessary
to use tho lead.

When approaching Punta Arenitas from cape Matapalo, tho sea is too deep for anchor^
age until point Tigrito is approached, tho average soundings being 35 to 80 fathoms.
Oflf this point (Tigi-ito) is anchorage in 13 to 16 fathoms, sand and sliolls ; or farther
out in about 20 fathoms, green mud. At Punta Arenitas thei-e is anchorage either
N.W. or S.E. of tho point ; tho latter is preferable if it be intended to remain only a
short time, on account of its exposure to the sea breeze and the consequent freedom
from the excessive heat felt northward of the point. The best position for anchoring
south-eastward of the point ia at about a mile from the laud in 10 to 12 fathoms,
green mud, with the flagstaff (1852) bearing W. by N. i N., and point Tigrito S. J E.

The anchorage north-westward of the point is very good, and convenient for efitcting
general repairs; but, if it be nooessai'y to heel tho vessel over, tho Golfito, on the
eastern side of the gulf, will bo found a far more suitable pluco. Tho depth is 16
fathoms at a third or half a mile from the laud, on greeu mud ; eastward and north-
ward of this position the soundings are 33 to 55 fathoms.

The landing place at Punta Arenitas is on its north side, at tho entrance to a little
creek which is dry at low water. The point is almost as steep as a quay. No water
can bo obtained hero to supply a vessel, but suflicicut may bo got from tho river Tigre,
5 miles north-westward from it ; when oft" this river it is advisable to send ashore at
half-flood, that tlie stream may bo ascended as far as possible, and it is recommended
to leave tho river at halt'-obb ; because tho sea fulls rapidly. It is high water at Punta
Arenitas on the days of full and change of the moon at 3h. 15m.; tho highest rise of
tide observed was 12 feet.

When the Ihillinute was at Punta Arenitas in 18C2, a small quantity of fresh pro-
visions was obtained from tlie village. Cattle could only be procured from the hacienda
of Tigre. Tho neighbouring forests were ascertained to bo rich in spars, and timber
BUttablo for building purposes. Fish was abundant.

GULF OF DULCE.

Point Tif/re. — From Areuitaa to point Tigro the distance, as before observed, is
5 miles in a north-westerly direction; the coast between, covered with mangroves, is
so steep that at about a quarter of a mile from it the depth is 15 to 30 fathoms, on
sand. This point is formed by a mud bank, dry at low water, which extends out
about half a mile. It is on the north side of tho point that the little river Tigre,
already alluded to, falls into the sea.

From point Tigre to ElRincon, the head of the gulf, the distance is 17 miles, along
a shore destitute of any objects sufficiently remarkable to be mentioned. At 5 miles
from the point is the little river Agnja, which has, or had, a hut at its entrance; and
9 miles fi'om this is Palma point, a very slight projection of the land, recognised by
its two cocoa-trees, which are the only trees of the kind on all the coast from point
Arenitas. The river Rincon is 8^ miles fi'om Palma point; it has two entrances which
can only be entered by boats.

The soundings between the rivers Tigro and Agnja are not so deep as those south-
\rard of Tigre point; but they increase in depth as Palma point is approached, and
also towards El Rincon, the head of the gulf.

At El Rincon the coast suddenly turns N.E. by E. \ E. and trends in that direction
11 miles, when it changes to E.S.E. and maintains that line of bearing throughout
almost the whole of the cast side of the gulf. In a very considerable part of this coast
the mountains rise almost from tho sea, and are covered with impenetrable forests ;
this description of coast prevails so far as tho GoJfito, when the mountains roccJo from
the shore, and are succeeded by an almost flat couutry. At tho head of the gulf, at
not more than half a mile from tho north shore, arc some islets, surrounded by coral
banks.

Eiver Esqmnaa. — On the north-east side of the gulf, distant 4 miles from tho islets
just mentioned, is tho small river Esquinas, which falls into the sea through a marshy
plain. Fronting it is a bank of mud and eand (soil brought down in rainy seasons),
which extends from the shore about 1 ^ miles and is for tho most part dry at low tide.
A channel into the river has been reported as existing across this bank, but in 1852
tho bank was dry over tho whole of its extent; there may therefore bo a channel only
during £oods in tho interior.

From the river Esquinas tho coast trends 4 J miles south-eastward to point Esquinas
and is bold all tho way ; tho soundings met with in succession aro 8 to 10 and
IG fathoms at a very short distance off it, the latter being close to the point. From
this headland to point San Joso the distance is 9V miles in an E. by S. ^ S. direction,
passing at about midway a bold projection of tho land ; around point San Joso aro
rocks, oif which is a pearl fishery at the depth of GJ to 10 fathoms. From this point
to tho entrance of the Golfito the distance is about 4 wiles.

When running down the coast from tho islets to the Golfito, it is advisable to give
tho shore a good berth, as it has not been very closely examined. The soundings
close to the land aro represented as deep, which the mountainous nature of the country
in its immediate vicinity would lead one to infer.

GoljUo. — This is an inlet of irregular shape running into the coast about 8^^ miles,
tbo upper or bouth-oustorn part of which is very shallow. Tho entrance is well defined

POINT SAL-Sl-PUEDES.

on the north side by point Golflto, a high bold promontory having a depth of 6 fathoms
close o£f it, and ou the south side by a hill 790 feet high having at its base a low sandy
peninsula ; the latter is veiy narrow, andlhas, or had, a few cocoa trees upon it. The
entrance is about a third of a mile wide, and is in the direction of N.E. by N. ; at first
the depth is 18 to 7 fathoms, being shallowest o£f the southern shore, and thence it
gradually decreases to ^ fathoms as the extremity of the sandy peninsula is approached.
Immediately within this sandy spit, ou its south side, the soundings are 4^^ to 2
fathoms, and vessels may enter, if caro be taken to use the lead frequently to avoid
any shallow spot that may have escaped the detection of the surveyors. If unfortu-
nately it be necessary to heel the vessel over to repair, it may be done in the Golfito,
as there are many places suitable for that puq)ose. Squalls and heavy rains are very
prevalent here.

The regular winds of the gulf make the navigation of the channel leading into thd
Golfito comparatively easy, and with the land-wind vessels can leave it without diffi-
culty. There is anchorage in mid-channel in about 4^ fathoms. If desirous to anchor
eastward of the peninsula, it will be advisable not to do so northward of the house on
its extremity bearing W. by N. J N.

River Colo. — From the Golfito the shore trends 7J miles S.E. by E. to the river
Goto, and afterwards 1 5 miles south-eastward and westward to point Banco, the latter
portion of coast forming the bay of Pavon; it is low and sandy throughout, and backed
by a flat well timbered country. The river Goto is the most considerable stream that
falls into the gulf. It is said to have two entrances, C to 6 feet deep with sufficient
water therefore for the admission of boats, but fronting it is a bank, already alluded
to, which renders approach to the river difficult ; this bau'- extends from shore about
2 miles, and lines the coast northward as far as the entrance to the Golfito, its breadth
gradually decreasing as it approaches the sandy peninsula into which it ultimately
merges. The sea, even in calm weather, generally breaks on the bank ; hence, although
its outer edge is very steep, it can usually be avoided without difficulty.

In Pavon bay the soundings at a mile from the shore are 5 to 3 fathoms on sand.
Vessels may anchor there, but only in very fine weather, and with the wind from
eastward.

Point Banco is bold and steep, but not so lofty as point Platanal miles south from
it. It is well wooded, and at its base are some rocks too near the laud to be dangerous
except to vessels close in shore. At about a mile south from it is a little stream,
named Claro. It is advisable to give the coast between points Banco and Platanal a
good berth, as it is believed that rocks extend off it a short distance.

Point 8ai-Bi-puedes.— From cape Matapalo the coast trends W.N.W. 16 niiljs, and
then westward about 4 miles to point Sal-si-puedes, a high precipitous point. It it*
low and sandy all the way, but immediately behind, it is high land, visible from a con-
siderable distance. Except in very fine weather it is unadvisable to approach this
coast closely, tho sea off it being deep, and there being usually extremely heavy breakers
upon tho beach ; in somo parts there is no bottom, sounding 60 fathoms, at less than
half a mile from the shore.

Chonclia relonu . — At about a mile southward from point Sal-si-puedes there is a

POINT LLORENA AND CANO ISLAND.

iroitnd bare rock nameil Ghoncha Pelona. It is possible that there may be a clear pas-
sage between this rock aud the shore, but as such has not been ascertained it will be
advisable fur vessels to keep outside it ; it is believed that deep water exists at a very
short distance from its south side.

Corcovado Rock. — From Sal-si-puedes point the coast trends in a north-westerly
direction 14} miles to point Llorena. At about midway between the headlands is the
Corcovado rock, which is 88 feet high, and viewed from a moderate offiug, stands oat
very prominently from the coast ; it is apparently joined to the shore by a sunken
ledge which is probably the seaward termination of a bank fronting the small river
Sirena. It will be prudent when passing the Corcovado to give it a wide berth, as the
locality has njot been closely examined ; at 1} miles south-westward from it the depth
is 14 fathoms, and it is said that there is no bottom at 30 fathoms at a short distance
southward from it.

When approaehing the Corcovado rock from north-westward, it is strongly recom-
mended to avoid the coast between it and point Llorena, as the bottom is extremely
irregular, and the low sandy coast presents no prominent marks to prevent a vessel
getting too near.

Foiat iiiorena. — This is a high, steep, and almost perpendicular headland, well
wooded, and partially covered with a luxuriant vegetation ; it will bo easily recognised
by a fine cascade which falls from one of its dill's. At a short distance from it are
some islets and rocks, some of which are well covered with slirubs.

From point Llorena the coast runs miles iu a northerly direction to point San
Jose, a bold, bluff headland, having it is believed, deep water at a moderate distance
from the rocks at its base ; this point may bo recognised from a good offing by a spot
on it bare of trees. At about midway is point San Pedro, a cliffy projection having
rocks about it under water. At nearly 1^^ miles from this part of the coast is a little
rocky islet, named San Podro, which is covered with trees and has sunken rocks about
it extending seaward a cable or more. As this little islet is probably joined to the
shore by a rocky ledge, it will be ]>rudeut when running down the coast to keep west-
ward of it, giving it at the same time a wide berth. The islet aud reef snelter a little
bay under poiut San Pedro, the situation of which, in 1852, was further distinguished
by a rock with a single tree on it, and also by the huts of the native Indians.

The beach on the south-east side of poiut Sau Jose is bordered with cocoa and
banana trees. Boats can land here under the rocks extending from the point.

canoialand. — Off this part of the coast, at about 10 miles distance, is the island of
Oauo, which is about a mile in extent from E. by N. to W. by S., aud half a mile
across. It is covered with trees, and the surfiico of the island is so level, that their
sununits present from a distance tlio appearance of almost a horizontal line. Its west
extremity is surrounded by a reef under water, extending out, it is considered, about
half a mile ; upon account of which, and also because the current sets strongly upon it,
vessels should give this end of the island a wide berth ; — so steep is this reef that close
to its edge is a depth of 15 fathoms, and at a cable from it 88 fathoms. The north-
oast poiut of the islAud has also some rocks about it, above and under water.

The lauding place on Cano island is on a sandy beach at its north-west side. Iq

e^WMWMiVM.

POIXT MAL\ DE LOS INDIOS.

8t<>rniy woiitlier, with a strong wind from westward, it will be impra-lent to attempt to
go on shore, as these winds always bring a heavy sea.

In the channel between the island and the shore thero is no known danger. The
depth midway is aboat 85 fathoms, which diminishes gradually eastward and westward ;
it is perhaps less deep nearer the hmd than the island.

When steering from the island southward towards point Llorena the bottom hecomes
Tery irregular, as the soundings change suddenly from 27 to 32 faf^oms ; but near the
point it again becomes regular. Northward of a supposed line joining the island to
point San Jose, the lead brings up a green compact sand ; southward of the line this
sand is mixed with fine sand and broken shells.

River Aijuja. — Following the shore from point San Jose ahont 3 miles, we meet
with the little river Aguja, which can be entered by boats. This is the only stream ca
the coast between the gulfs of Dulce and Nicoya, whence water can be obtained with facility.

Sierpe Bay. — From the river Agnja, a high wooded shore, trontod by a narrow beach,
trends northward 5 miles to Sierpe bay, where is a little river. Thr lay is surrounded
by high land, and can be recognised from an offing of 8 miles " " 'arge bare part
called the rastrado. The soundings across the entrance to the buy are 16 to 13 fathoms,
on green sand of considerable tenacity.

The north point of Sierpe bay, named Violine, is a bold and rugged projection of
coast. Off it is an islet covered with trees ; around this islet is a sunken rocky ledge,
which may possibly extend to the shore, — hecce, vessels "-jliould always pass this islet
on its west side, giving it a wide berth.

Sacate Islet. — At about 2 miles from Violine islet in a N. by W. direction, is a little
islet named Sacate, which is distant nearly 3 miles from the nearest shore. It is
believed to be surrounded by a rocky ledge.

Voint Mala de loo indios. — From point Violine the coast bends sharply round east-
ward and forms the little bay of Violine, into the north side of which the rivers Gunjumal
and Matapalo fall. It then trends northerly 19 miles, suddenly turning to the westward
near point Mala de los Indios. All this land is low, well-wooded, and in the interior
marshy ; it contains several rivers, which, in succession from the Matapalo, bear the
Dames of Brava, Chica, aud Goronada. The coast is believed to have no sunken dangers
off it, and it is asserted that the soundings in its vicinity are regular, averaging 15 to
10 fathoms at 3 to 2 miles from shore ; the bottom is, however, as might bo expected,
ehallower in the immediate neighbourhood of the rivers.*

Point Mala de los Indies is bold aud rugged ; at a mile south-westward from it tho
depth is 16 fathoms. This pciint is the commencement of some high land, tho Cerro
de Ubita, which extends along the coast in a north-westerly direction ; from this
circumstance it is easily recognised, and especially too, as tho land eastward and south-
ward of it is low.

From point Mala de ios Indies the coast trends 7 miles in a north-westerly direction

• It is probable that all the rivers on this part of the coast are in some way connected in tho
interior, ns it is stated by the natives, that u cauoo outeriug tho river Sierpe, at point Violine, coii
rejoin tho roa at point Mula do los Indios.

POINTS UBITA, DOMINICATi, QUEPOS, &a.

to point Ubitft, niTii is in general bold iimi cl'iffy. At r.ithor more than 9 miles from
point ^i.ila do los Indios, ii cluster of rocks iibovc water, named Bullenitn, will be
recognised by their pecnliar form, being slender in sh-.ipe and pointed. Outpide these,
at a mile more to seaward, is a large i-ock, the Ballona, covered with guano ; it is
surrounded by a rocky ledge, w}iich extends from it some little distance in n W.S.W.
direction, and should consequently be iipproached with care ; — it is said that the sea
always breaks upon this ledge.

Point vbita has sonio rocks jutting off from it, and these are followed by a reef, nnder
shelter of which, in what is called port Ubita, vessels of any size, it is said, may obtnin
shelter. Boats can land here without difficulty, and water may be procured from a
river which hero falls into the sea by two mouths, one eastvard and the other westward
of the point.

Foint sominieai, distant 6^ miles from point Ubita, is easily distingnished by its
dark appearance, owing to the peculiar vegetation that covers it. The various projecting
points between are well wooded, and there are several creeks of little importance. A
wide berth should be given to the coast hereabont as sunken rocks exist, as far out as
IJ miles. At 2 miles westward from point Dominical the depth is 20 fathoms, muddy
bottom, and here vessels may anchor in fine weather, or nearer the shore, according as
it may be convenient ; the ground is good for holding.

Foint Qnepos, Aw. — Point Dominical is succeeded by a low sandy coast which trends
17 miles in a W. by N. i N. direction to point Naranjos, a bluff projection, and this again
is followed by a low coast for a distance of 4 miles to point Quepos. Ir, this extent
there are four rivers, namedDominic&l,Barru, Savagro.and Naranjos, the last mentioned
being on the east side of the point of that name ; none of these can, we believe, be
ascended for any distance even by canoes. The Saragre is the most important of the
rivers, and its banks are the most visited by the Indians.

The coast between points Dominical and Naranjos is believed to be clear of sunken
dangers. It is stated that vessels may run along it at the distance of 2 miles in a depth
of 19 to 24 and 27 fathoms, green mud. A nearer approach than this should not be
made, the locality having been only very imperfectly examined.

lu the vicinity of Naranjos point is a group of islets, having sunken rocks about them;
the largest and easternmost is c^ reddish colour. At a mile outside these islets the depth
is 25 to 27 fathoms, mud.

Quepos point is of moderate height and covered with trees. On its west side are
some rocks situated some distance from the land, under shelter of which boats may
anchor. In the immediate neighbourhood of this point, between it and Naranjos point,
are some islets of similar character and appearance to those described in the preceding
paragraph ; the largest, Manuel Antonio, shelters a umall sandy creek, which is
occasionally a resort for turtle fishers. There is no passage between these islets and
the land.

Point Mala. — Fi'om Quepos point to point Mala or Judat<, the coast trends westerly
about 24 miles, and is low and flat the whole distance. At about a mile from Quepos
point is the little river Veija ; 2 miles from this ia that of Las Damas ; and 55 miles
farther westward is the river Pirri. These rivers are of no value to shipping. Upon

PORT IIERRADURA.

the wbole of this coast the surf beats with great violence, rendering a landing almost
impossible with a strong southerly wind. The soundings at 2 miles from shore are 12
to 10 fathoms, fine sand, which increase as point Mala is approached, and the sand
becomes mixed with mud.

Point Mala is very low, and covered with trees and mangi'oveS. A reef extends from
it in "^ R'^ntberly direction about 1^ miles, upon which are some islets and rocks. The
bottom in the immediate vicinity of this reof is very irregular, changing suddenly from
18 to 11 fathoms on a bottom of coarse sand and broken shells. When rounding the
point, more than ordinary care is required, there being no objects on shore by which
the position of the outer part of the reef may bo known ; the current off it is always
•westerly, but varies in strength from 1 to il miles an hour, according to the wind. It
will be prudent not to get into u loss depth hereabout than 80 to 25 fathoms.

From point Mala a low sandy coast continues in an almost straight line GJ- miles in
a N.W. by W. direction to a bold headland known as point Guapilon, the termination
of the high land which at only 3.^ miles N.E. by N. from it rises to the height of 2172
feet. All this coast has a slioal extending from it Home distance, causing breakers in
blowing weatlier. At about hnlf a mile olf the headland there is a dangerous rock, awash
at low water, known as Escolio rock ; on account of which it will be prudent not to
approach the coast hereabout nearer than tlie depth of 24 fathoms. At 2 miles north-
westward from point Mala is the little river Tusulubro, the position of which is readily
recognised.

Fort Berradnra. — Fron point Cruapilon the coast maintains tho direction of N.W. by
W. for 8i miles to a little bay named Hfirradura, v/here good shelter may be obtained
from all winds except those from westward. It is formed on the north side by a bold
rooky point, from which a reef extends nearly 3 cables ; and on the south side by a
similar point of iand, but bolder, as it consists of a rounded hill with very high land
immediately behind it. Attached to t'le south point by a reef dry at low tiJe is an islet,
named Gano, which is nearly of tho same h(jight as the point ; this islet has also a reef
extending about a cable from it on all sides. When the bay was surveyed in 1852, the
islet was covered with trees.

Port Ilerradura has an extent oast and west of about IJ miles, ;ind is IJ miles wide
from shoro to shore. Tho soundings decrease from 20 fathoms at tho entranco to 5
and 4 fathoms close to its head. It in, or was, nninhabilod, nnd as it offers but few
inducements tor a visit, vessels soldom resort to it. Good witor in great abundance may
be obtained from a stream which fulls into its north-east part ; it is said that 20 caskn
may bo filled at a time, if they are rolled into the basin. Communication with tho
interior is very dithcult.

Tho only known danger in port Herraduni is a rock, named Havannah, situated in
uuL.'ly tho middle of tho bay, upon wliich the sea breaks at hulf-tido. It has a depth
over it of only 2 feet at low water sprlnj^-tides and is sometimes visible when there is a
swell. It lies witii a house on the beach bearing N.E. § N. yVi "f i^ mile, and Cnno
pmnaole B.W. by B. ^% uf a mile. A.t full and change of the moon the tid<« rises
Ui feet.

Whim running iut;> joi^, Uerradura, it should bo remembered that tho roof on caclt

GULF OF NICOYA AND PUNTA ARENAS.

side is very steep. Having entered, the nsual place of anchorage is off the watering
place, in about 5 fathomr. The approximate geographical position of tho watering
basin is lat. 9° 38' 30", long. 84° 36'.

ovZiF OP NZOOY A. — This large gulf is one of the most important places of resort on tho
west coast of Central America. It extends about 50 miles into the land in a north-westerly
direction, and is 25 miles wide at tho entrance — between port Herraduia and capo
Blanco, bat it soon begins to decrease in width and at its head is only 6 miles across. It
contains numerous islands, all lying olT the western shore, some of which are of con-
siderable extent ; most of these are covered with trees, and in 1852 were uninhabited.
Chira, the largest island, is at the head of the gulf ; vessels of very light draught of
water can sail round it, but as the channel is intricate, it is necessary to obtain the
assistance of some one having a knowledge of the locality. Ban Lucas island, im-
mediately opposite Punta Arenas, has good anchorage on its north sido, to which vessels
may run with facility. At present, 18G7, the only place of trade is Punta Arenas, oa
the east coast, at about half-way up the gulf.*

East coast of the Gulf. — From Ilerradura point tho coast trends northward about
2^^ miles to point Sucia, off which a rocky ledge extends westward one mile, and partly
shows at low tide ; close to the outer edge of this ledge, there is deep water of 18 to
25 fathoms. Thence the coast turns round to N.E. 5 N. 4^ miles, and then trends
north-westword, 10 miles, to Calderas bluff, a high rocky point, eastward of which is
port Calderas, formerly the principal port in the gulf, but now deserted. Calderas
was generally considered to bo unhealthy to all new residents, and tho higher author-
ities usually managed to excuse residence.

Vonta AransN. — From Calderas bluff the coast trends round to tho north-west-
ward 8 miles, to Arenas point, off which a bank of 3^ and 4^ fathoms extends 2^ miles
in a southerly direction, havkig a small spot of 10 to 12 feet upon it ; this spot lies
with the extremity of the point bearing N. J W,, li miles, and the Pan de Azucar
W.S.W. ^ S., 8J miles. Tho bank is very steep on the western side, deepening
suddenly ii'om 7 to 22 fathoms ; but not so on the eastern side, the soundings from it
to the eastern coast being 5 to 8, aud 7 fathoms.

Arenas point has a shelf of mud extending about a mile westward from it, which is
awash at low water. It forms the south bank of a small stream, which has its outlet
immediately northward of it. On tho north iiide of this river there is another shelf of
mud, which also becomes dry at low water. Upon this point there is a small fijccd light,
the visibility of which is reported (1878) to bo very feeble.

Punta Arenas was ouco a free port; but siuco January 18G1, customs' duties, i^c.,
have been oolloctod. It is (or was) tho most important eomniorcial place on tho
Pacific coast of Central America; and it is tho only port of tho State of Costi\ Rica, on
tho Pacific, frequented by vessels. During recent years it has greatly deteriorated,
owing to the partial filling up of tlio harbour and the roHtriutivo policy of the pruKcut
Govtiriuneut.

* When bound into tlio gulf of Nicnya, flljipinaHtorH al)nul(l proviilo theinBolvcs with the Ailiulralty
oJinrt No. IttUl, a» it ihuwB tho tmvigntioii on n largo gonlo.

GULF OF NICOYA.

Tho village of Punta Arenas, has, wo believe, n population of about 1500, The
inner anchorage, named the Estcro, situated northward of the point, admits at high
tide vessels d'T.vmg 10 to 13 feet, and can be entered only with a pilot's assistance.
The outer anchorage, south' .ard of the point, will accommodate all ordinary vessels,
tho depth being 5 to 7 l^ithonis; but this anchorage, being exposed to southerly winds,
can be considered safe only during fine weather or with tho wind from the land.

The anchorage usually selected during tho fine season, from November to June, ig
immediately southward of the point, with the Pan de Azucar bearing about S.W. \ W.,
or Aves islet S.W. The vessel will hero br' at about a mile from tho beach, in 5^ to
6^ fathoms on fine muddy sand, and in a position to communicate freely with the
village. In winter it is necessary to anchor farther out, on account of the incon-
venience occasioned by tho heavy rollers sent in ironi the south-westward, which tend
to carry the vessel on shore. Tho position recommended is in 5i to Oj fathoms, mud
over sand, with tl'o custom-house bearing N.W. by N., or the lighthouse N.N.W.,
and the Pan do Az'icar about W.S.W.*

It should bo rcniarkcd that the soundings which in tlio passage from tho Nigrctaa
islets to tho anchorage decrease gradually from 20 and 17 fathoms, to 4.y fathoms on
tho bank bounding the anchorage, increase again towards tho eastern coast to 10 and
fathoms. In the immediate vicinity of Calderas blufl", the depth is 15 to 12 fathoms.

When at anchor it is recommended to moor S.E. and N.W. Tho holding ground lA
not good, and tho anchors are liable to be fouled by the flux and reflux of the sea, and
by tho moving of the vessel during tho sea and land breezes.

It is high water on the days of full and change of tho moon at 8h. 10m. The tido
rises about 10 feet.

Water for shipping is obtained at tho river Baranca, 7 miles eastward from tho
anchorage. Tho bar can bo crossed only at half-flood, or a little before half ebb. Tho
best water is obtained at about a milo from tho entrance. Only boats can ascend tho
river, and tho channel is very tortuous. The vessel should be anchored at about H
miles from the river, in Oi fathoms.

We believe, abundance of fresh provisions can he obtained at Puuta Arenas, but
Bome difliculty may bo experienced in obtaining cattle.

WesL const of the (iiilf. — Cape lUiuico, tlio west extremo of tho gulf of Nicoya, is of
moderate height and covered with trees even to tho beach. 'J'he land, of which it is tho
southern termination, is safHcieutly liigh to bo visible from a distancs of about 25 miles,
especially when bearing about N.N.W. At a considerablo oiling it somewhat resoniblcs
an island, but a nearer approach reveals some wliito spots which help to distinguish
tho cape from the back land. At about a mile southward Irom it is an ish^t, of light
colour, without V(U-dure. This isli't is Kiirroundod by a rocky ledge, which dries at low
tide, and has deep water of 10 to J'.O laUi'.nns ininiediately southward of it ; between it
and tho shore tho depth is 'ij to !) fathoms.

• Mr. Hull, n.N., II. M.S. llavniui, 183!) sayH " llin liulit ixt, I'unta Arnnnii iBplnliily visible m)ntli-
ward of the Hni! rock, ll.v nut liriiiKiiif? It cnHtwanl of N.N.W. vomtiOn will lui olnir of nil ikiij^or till
tlin niicliorni^o liu rcncliiMl. Wti ctmio tu in I'lillioniu, willi tlin li^lilliouHii lioiiriiig N.N.W. 1 W.,
tliitniit U inilva. Dotli olih and lloud Rot Ktrongly uvor tlio I'utita Arenas liniik,"

GULF OF NICOYA.

•19

From cape Blanco, the western side of the gulf trends 11 miles to the N.E. by N.,
and is free from outlying dangers, except that at about 2^ miles from the cape, a ledge
of rocks, partly above and partly under water, runs one mile oflf the shore, and has deep
water of 17 fathoms close to its outer edge. At the end of this distance, 11 miles,
the coast bends a little inwards, forming a small bay, named Bullena, where are
soundings of 18 and 9 fathoms, shoaling gradually towards its head, which is low land
covered with mangroves. The north side of Ballona bay, Ballena head, is of moderate
height, and steep, having H fathoms at a short distance from it. Thence the coast
trends N.E. i N., about 8 miles io the Nigrt-tas islands, and there are, at about midway,
two islands separated from the shore by a narrow channel navigable by boats, named
Jasper and Alcp'.raz, of which the former is the easternmost. The Nigretas are two
islands close to each other, wliich run off 2i| miles from the coast ; from the eastern
one a ledge of rocks extends a quarter of a mile eastward, and has near its extremity a
largd rock known as the Sail or Ship rock.

From the Nigrutas islands the coast trends to the N.N.W., 6^ miles, and has several
islands off it, lying more or less near the shore ; of these, the largest, about two nuius
westward of Nigretas islands, is named Cedro. At the end of this distance are the
islands Aves, Pan de Azucar, and Sau Lucas ; these are surrounded by shoals to a short
distance, but separated from each other by soundings of 7 to 11 fathoms.

The channel up the gulf northward of San Lucas islands, between them and the bank
extending from point Arenas, has a considerable width and depth of 18 to 27 fathoms,
muddy bottom. Thence up the gulf, and failing a pilot, the eye and steady use of the
load will be the best guides.

Directions. — The entrance to the gulf of Nicoya is so wide that no difficulty whatever
is experienced in making it. It is usual to steer for cape Blanco, keeping a little east-
ward of its moridiau, and afterwards to direct the course into the gulf; but it appears
probable that some advantage would be gained if the land about Horradura were mado
instead of the capo, as the effect of the westerly current would thereby bo to some extent
neutralised, — a mile or two would also be saved in the subsequent route to Punta Arenas.

Having entered tlio gulf, keep along the oastorn shore, as it is shallower tlian tho
opposite coast, and also because tlio oll'octs of the ebb stream, which southward of tho
Nigretas islands flows south- westward, will not bo so strongly felt. The soundings,
although great, are not so deep, but tliat the anchor can be let go in tho ovc ut of being
overtaken with a calm and a contrary current. Ths Hood has occasionally considerable
strength, and requires to bo guarded against as its tendency is towards the Nigretas
islands, in tho vicinity of which tho water is very deep ; close to tho south sido of tho
Bail rock the depth is 21 fathoms, deepening rapidly seaward to 3G fathoms. Tho courso
tbouco to Punta Arenas is direct and clear of any known sunken danger. Tho bank
extending southward from tho point has already been mentioned.

Tho following iuHtructioiis wero written in 1813, und are added because they supply
Bome useful hints : —

" The entrance of the gulf issalo ; the tides, h(nvever, at times run ntrongly, eiqiecially
at tho full and change of tho moon. There is ebb and Hood, I it tho fornjor is of longer
continuance and much strongcir than the latter.

To run in, keep eastward of tho meridian of cnpe Blanco, which is tho westerly part

GULF OF NICOYA.

of the gulf; and should you round the cape at the distance of 1 to Smiles, the course
will be about N.E. ; or, if you should be about half-way between the cape and port
Horradura, the eastern side of the gulf, it will be a little more northerly.

Having sighted the Nigretas, on the port bow, a rocky point will be observed a little
eastward of them, having the appearance of a vessel, and hence called the Ship rock, to
which give a good berth, leaving it on the port hand. Haul then over to the starboard
coast, that in the event of it falling calm and an ebb tide, you may anchor in shallow
water ; whereas, if becalmed, with an ebb tide, when near the Ship rock, it would be
difficult to find anchorage, at leasii la not less than 20 to BO fathoms ; and if unable to
anchor, the ebb tide, which is very strong in this part of the gulf, would drive the vessel
back again past cape Blanco. Steer along thu starboard coast, so as to pass the extreme
points at a distance of from 2 to 3 miles, and you will soon perceive the custom-house
of Punta Arenas, towards which shape your course, and as soon as the village is seen,
bring the custom house to bear N.N.W., or the middle of the village N. by W., when
you will bo in from 18 to 8 fathoms, and see in the distance the point named Punta
Arenas. Farther out there is a heavy breaking of the sea, occasioned by some sand
banks, which run out a great distance, and partly dry at low water. Westward of these
banks are the islands of San Lucas ; eastward of wliich, between them and the banks,
there is good anchorage, but in deep water.

Merchant vessels prefer lying closer in, on account of the proximity of the landing-
place and stores. The course indicated above loads ships to tb'° anchorage. The
leading mark is the custom-house on with the flng-staft' of the port. The depth is
about 8 fathoms, muddy bottom, at from a half to 3 cables fi'om the shore.

The banks above alluded to have a tendency to augment BE'i change their position,
and the safest course is to keep the custom-house a little open eastward of the flag-staff,
keeping the lead constantly going ; and should the water shoal, to haul immediately to
starboard. If desirous to come to anchor on heaving a ship to, at some 2 or 8 miles
from the port, in order to obtain a pilot, it may safely be done, until one comes off and
carries you to the place desired.

The custom-house is easily known by its white painted roof ; but it should be care-
fully borne in mind that, from the rapid progress the soa appeared to be making upon
this spot, it may soon be removed and another built clBOwhcrc."

It has been stated that sliips from southward should make cape Blanco, to obtain a
frosii departure for their intended port. Such is the course recommended by the writer
of the foregoing directions, who considers it better than to make a direct course for the
volcano of Beija, because in winter the winds are light, variable, and attended Avith
Calais, and it is froqticntly llie case that tlie high lainl is obscured by mists or haze,
which ronilors navigiilion diHicult even to tlidse well uciiiiaiiited with the coast.

iiciii/riijiliirdl l'<isiiii)ii, — The approxiuuito position of cape Blanco (islet off the
cape) is lat. l)'^ 33', hnig. 86" 1' 10".

Tho COAST from capo Blanco trends north-westward and westward nearly 40 miles
ton point of hind named Morro Ilonnoso, from which a reef extends a short distance ;
aftorwanlH it bends round to N.W. ] N., '28 miles to point Velus, so named from its
resemblance to a sail, oif which are some islets and rocks. It is recommended to give

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CULEBRA BAY.

all this land a good berth, to avoid any sunken dangers there may be ; for it has not been
closely examined. It k represented to bo, in general, high laud covered with trees,
with occasionally some siindy plains and small deep bays. From point Volas the coast
trends 14 miles north-ep.stward to ])oint Gorda,the south-west extremity of Culohra bay. =•■

The coast between points Velae and Gorda is quite unknown. It is said to have some
islands oft' it, the outermost of which u named Brumcl. Point Gorda, viewed from
southward, appears as a great rounded hill with a slight indentation in the middle of its
sumii 1 ; it is higher than the country in its vicinity and its highest part is near the sea.

CVLF.BRA BAT. — Port Culobra, the north-eastern part of Culebra bay, is an inlet
running about i miles into the coast, in a north-easterly direction. At its entrance it
is about a mile wide, with soundings of 10 to 20 fathoms, which depth increases
gradually towards the head of the bay, where there are 9 to G fathoms. On the south
side of tho entrance are some islets, or rocks, at a short distance from the shore, called
the South Yiradores ; and on the north side are also two similar rocks, called tho
North Viradorcs. Captain Sir E. Belcher observed the head of the bay to bo in lat.
10° 30' 55", long. 85° 83' 30". After mentioning various difficulties experienced in
finding the port, he describes it in the following terms : —

" At daylight on Sunday, the 25th of March, 1838, wo were close off the port, but
not being able to detect the Viradores, wo wore, and intended i-nnning further south;
as Kellot had informed mo that, in his search for me, he had been unable to find it.

While in the act of wearing, a gleam of sunshine showed an island in-shore, which
induced me to make another attempt, and on reaching to windward we opened the heads
and discovered the Viradores ; but even then could only ascertain from the mast-head
that any recess of tho bay lay within. At noon wo entered the heaiir, and at 8h.
anchored in 8 fathoms in this splendid jjort, justly doser-, ing that appellation.

The port is certainly magnificent, and, from information derived from tho natives,
I learned that it is connected with Salinas, and thence on to Nicaragua, Granada, &c.
If any railway bo contemplated in this quarter, it ought to enter at tho bay of Salinas,

* Tlio con.it wfiptwnril of capo Dliiuoo as far as Culebra bay is very imperfectly represented in
obarU, as llio (lelineatioii is chiefly defiveii from a sketch obtained duriiif; a runniug survey by Oapt.
T. A, Hull, H.N., in is^it. M, Laivlin of tho French surveyinj^ vessel liriUUintf in 18r)2, gives the
niinio of 0"ii>ii('8 to a p<pint of land 30 miles W.N.W. I'roni capo Blniico, which wo Hiipposo to bo
tho Morro llernioso of Hull's cliart, although tho latter is there represented M miles further west-
ward. M. Lapelin approached cape lilanco from westward nnd observes " All the coast between
points Qordrt and Onionos i) high and wooded and bonlered with a strand of white sand iulerru|iteil
here and there by elilfs of reddish colour having rocUs at their base over which tho sea breaks. Wo
coasted it at the distance of 2 to H milos, and had soundings of 21 to 27 fathoms. I'oint Yelas is
unknown to the pilots. In tho iiositions assigned to points Velas and Morro Ilernioso wo found
heilher point nor hdl ; it was only in lat. !) ' o!!', long. 8')" C2', that is to say, in a position 21 miles
more HoMlh aiid 12 miles nioro west than that assigneil to point Vidiis, that wi met with a (;reyish
coloured clitT sni mounted by trees, aud having breakers at it.s base to tho dislanco seauurd of
ajiparontly li niilee. The soa broke \\\mw some detached rooks, which lie in a considcrubio ninnber
southward of a white sandy islet, upon whieli are two rock"; resembling sails at a distance. lla\inn
from this |>oint run along the coast about 20 miles in an \'\. by t:). dirocllon, we discovered Unit {\a
laud tlioa trended S.K. to capu lUanco. All this coast is steep nad covered with trees; the liil.s
were seldom more lofty than those id' the eountry behind tho enpe ; nnd tho sandy bcnth intcispi rscd
ill many jilaccB by rotky poiuts which formed In lie sheltered bays, olTorcd (treiit facilities for a
landing."

MURCIELAGOS ISLANDS, ELENA AND SALINAS BAYS.

II \\i

which woald render these two ports important. When this portion of the country
becomes settled, civilized, and more populous, I little donht but Colebra will be better
known, and probably the cliief port of the state of Nicaragua.

Water, fit for consumption, was not found at the beach, but may be obtained a short
distance up the creek, which a boat may enter at high water. If wells were dug,
doubtless it would be found at the N.W. side, and the surrounding country is moun-
tainous. Another indication in favour of this is the thickly wooded sides and summits,
as well as bright green spots of vegetation throughout the bay.

Brasil wood is very abundant. Mahogany and cedar were observed near the beach,
but, as people have been employed cutting the brasil, probably all the mahogany and
cedar, easily attainable, has been taken."

Prom port Culebra the coast trends to the N.N.W. about 20 miles to cape Elena,
northward of which are Elena and Salinas bays. All this shore is quite unknown and
as usually represented in charts is believed to be very badly delineated ; it is said to
have some islets off it of considerable size. Cape Elena is an elevated promontory of
ft triangular form, the ridge of the promontory being veiy iiregular in outline, having
ft somewhat serrated aspect, while its northern side is an unbroken steep escarpment
without any indication of verdure.

ixnreieiagoB Islands. — On the southern side of the remarkable cape just described
is a cluster of islands, known as Murciclngos or Bat islands. They are but imperfectly
represented on the chart, as little is known concerning them. Two rocks extend sea-
ward of them more than a mile in a westerly direction, hence they must he cautiously
approached. These islands form almost two distinct harbours ; in the inner one vessels
can anchor in 82 fathoms, with a hawser fast to the shore. Springs are numerous
and there arc tolerable rivulets, where fresh-water can be obtained ; but the surf is
very great, and gulf squalls are frequent and violent.

About 8 miles north-eastward of cape Elena is the point of the same name,' whence
the coast trends easterly and then northerly, forming tlio bay of Elena.

Biena Bay. — Elena bay is an open bay having an extent from north to south of
about i miles; at its head in its south-east corner, is a small inlet of 11 to 4] fathoms,
named Tomas bny, in which vessels might perhaps bo able to anchor and obtain pro-
tection from westerly winds, — but this is nncortaiu. Elena bay is quite open to all
winds from westward. Off the entrance of Tonias bay, at about a mile from the shore,
are some rocks above water, known as Viigares; and at about 2 miles N.N.E. from
these is the small island, Juauilla, insidn of which is a depth of 7 to 11 fathoms. Tho
north shore has also an islet off it, named Despciisa. The water in this bay is very
deep, there boing 80 futlioms at 2 miles from its head; whence it shoals gradually to
Juanilla inland. As there is good anchorage in Salinas bay vessels seldom enter
Elena bay.

BALirvAa BAY, northward of Elena bay, is separated from it by a hold headland,
terminating in point Dcscarte. It in a littlo more than iJ miles in extent, with sound-
inffi of 12 fathoms at tho entrance, wliicli decrease gi-adnally to 4 J and 2 fathoms nt
its head, ou sand and mtul. Tlio northern Klioro is highland; tho southern is com-
paratively low and flat. In the south part of tho bay, at a short distance from the

SAN JUAN DEL SUR.

beach, aro some roclcs above and ander water; and near the centre of the bay is a
little island, named Salinas, auder shelter of which vnssels anchor during winter, and
find protection from westerly winds. The geogmphical position of Salinas island,
according to the determination of Capt. Sir £. Belcher, Ii.N., is lat. 11° 2' 50",
long. 85° 89' 9".

Whan bound into Salinas bay it is advisable to give a wide berth to point Desearte,
because reefs are said to run off from it, in a westerly direction, npwards of a mile. A
{;ood mark is the north peak of Orosi, 5200 feet high, situated about 12 miles inland,
bearing E. } S. (S. 83° E.), as this will lead to the bay. The depth on the south-
east side of Salinas island is shallrw for nearly half a mile.

The Coast from Salinas bay to San Juan bay trends 12} miles in a N.W. i W.
direction; it has not been surveyed, and should have a wide berth given to it. Cape
Nathan, in lat. 11° 8', has some rocks off it above water, and there are ali^o soma
similar rocks at about midway between this point and San Juan ; all these rocks lie off
the land at a considerable distance, and as there may be suukoa dangers ia their
vicinity, it will bo prudent to avoid approaching near them.

Moantaina. — In approaching from seaward considerable assistance in discovering
port San Juan is afforded by the mountains Mombacho (4182 feet high), Ometepo
(5050 feet), Madera (4190 feet), Orosi (5199 feet), and Miravalles (4700 feet).
Mombacho, in lat. 11° 48}', long. 85° 54}', bears a strong resemblance to the volcano
San Salvador (in lat. 13° 49', long. 89° 10'), but is not sufficiently lofty to be seen
from all directions by an observer at ouly a few miles from the land. The pointed sam-
mit of Ometepe, in lat. 11° 32', long. 85° 84, and the large saddle-shaped summit of
Madera, in lat. 11° 27', long. 85° 27}', can bo seen in clear woa her abovo the hills
between them and the coast. The volcano Orosi, in lat. 10° 59', long. 85° 25', is
frequently obscured by clouds ; when not so hidden it will be recognised by its double
pointed summit, which resembles the pointed roof of two towers, connected by a vast
ridge. Mimvulles, in lat. 10° 39' 40", long, about 85°, can also bo seen from almost
all directions seaward. • From San Juan, the summit of Ometepe bears N.E. by N.,
and that of Madera N.E. } E.

SAN JV&xt BSZi BUB. — The bay of San Juan del Sur is small, being only about
luilf a mile across. It is situated in about Lit. 11° 16', long. 85° 49', and is by no
mean esasy to find, even when running down the coast, tho little bays being all of similar
character and apponrnuco. High land sarroands the bay on every side, excepting
towards tho S.S.W. and W. by S. quarters, in which directions it is open to tho ocean.
At its head the beach is low and sandy, and on each bide the luud juts out towards the
eea, forming promontories of 400 to 500 feet high,. Tho entrance from tho sea is
elear, with a depth of water of 9, 8, 7, and fathoms, decreasing gradually to 3 fatboma
at the distance of 800 yards from tho beach. In every part there is moderately good
anchorage, geuenilly on a muddy bottom; and the rise of tide is from 10 to 14 foot.

Tho prevailing wiuds on this part of the coast aia North and N.E., which blow
occasionally with considerable violonco ; and when such is tho case, vessels may some-
times oxpcrieuce some difficulty in making the bay. Fresh-water can bo obtained at
a short distance from tho beach. Tho nearest town ii Nicaragua which is distant 7 or
6 leagues.

GULF OF THE PAPAGAYOS.

Directiotts. — Vessels approaching the port of Juan should bring the conical peak of
Ometepe (which rises 5050 feet out of lake Nicaragua, 22 miles distant from the coast)
to bear N.E. by N., and run in on that bearing till the peak is hidden by the coast
range; they will then have the harbour ahead, distant about 5 miles.

Coming along the coast from the southward, when within 5 or 6 miles of the port,
three isolated rocks will be observed standing oft* the coast, apparently about one mile
apart, and when near the entrance, which is bold on either side, a small house near a
large tree may be seen on the hill over the right-hand side of the bay.

The usual anchorage is in 6 to 6 fathoms near a large iron buoy moored in 5 fathoms
opposite the town.*

At the distance of less than a mile from San Juan del Sur, there is another port named
Nacascolo, which is of nearly the same size and figure ; and, as the land between them
is lowand nearly level, they might be united by a cut, were it thought necessary.f

M. de Lapelin, 1852, does not write favourably of the bay of San Juan. " It is usual
to anchor outside the port in 8i{ to .11 fathoms, nearer the south than the north side of
the bay, and always close to a little bed of rocks which reduces the breadth of the
entrance. The bottom, consisting of sand and broken shells, is a very indifferent
holding ground against the violence of north-east squalls, and its sharp declivity towards
the sea still further increases the difficulty of the anchor retaining its hold ; this declivity
is, however, of some advantage during the prevalence of West and S.W. winds, which
Bometimes in winter blow with considerable violence. At this outer anchorage, with
on-shore winds, the loss of a vessel is unknown, although instances have occurred of
vessels dragging their anchors.

The port consists of a little buy open to all winds from seaward. The bottom, of
the same description as the exterior anchorage, does not hold better, and as the
anchoring ground is very limited in extent, it will be prudent not to enter the bay but
remain outside. Except perhaps in winter, small vessels may, however, obtain shelter
behind the rocks of the north point.

It is not difficult to effect a landing, as boats ground at some little distance from the
beach and the surf is not very heavy.

Water is obtaine(^ from a well, and is of indifferent quality ; it is small in quantity
and not easily got. With the exception of fresh provisions at an extravagant price, wo
could obtain no supplies."

ovz.r or the papaqayos. — The portion of coast described in the preceding
paragraphs, from Port Culebra to the bay of San Juan del Sur, or perhaps as far north-
ward as cape Desolad, (see page 5G), is known as the gulf of the Papagayos ; these
are violent winds, which blow with such considerable strength as frequently to cause
the loss of spars and rigging.

They commence about the meridian of Leon, long. 80° 50', and when approaching

• Oapt. G. F. Emmons, U.S. etonmer Oesipee, 1869.

t Tho povtriimont of NioarnRua decreod iu about tho year 1840, tlio erpction of lionsrB ami tlio
buililiiiRB neccBBary for making Han Juan bay a port of oommorcc, but in 1852 tliore wore only a few
wooduu buildinga pompously called botels.

■■n

GULF OF THE PAPAGAYOS.

from westward, are first lelt off cape Desolada, about 10 miles eastward of Realejo. They
decrease about sunset, and attain their greatest force about uiuo or ten o'clock in the
morning.

Captain Sir E. Belcher, R.N., says of this wind or breeze, that its limits may be
considered to be iucladed in a line drawn from cape Desolada to point Yclas ; aud it is
rather a curious phenomenon, that its strength seldom ranges so far as this chord, but
eeems to prefer a curve at a distance of 15 to 20 miles from the land.

Captain Marie says "In this part of the coast and as far as the entrance of the gulf
of the Papagayos, the winds are very light, with frequent calms ; the tides setting strong
from the N,W. Custom recommends steering along the coasts in the gulf, as by so
doing it is thought that the squalls are less severe, the winds more steady, and the sea
much smoother. I have frequently crossed the gulf, sometimes close in shore, and at
other times been forced, by strong winds from N.N.E. to N.N.W., to keep the offing.
In the summer time I have navigated in this locality both near to, and at a distance
from the coast, and in both cases met with strong winds, accompanied with sudden and
heavy squalls, which are almost immediately followed by calms ; great care is therefore
necessary. I have always taken the precaution to keep from one to three reefs in the
topsails, taking care promptly to shorten sail when the squalls came on, and then keeping
as close to the wind as possible, with a good full sail, so as easily to make cape Desolado,
and have thus been enabled to cross the gulf with this sort of weather in about 12 or
15 hours. The winds generally enable ships to make a N.W. course, but in order to
keep in with the coast itii desirable, as the squalls subside, to steer, if possible, a little
to windward of that point."

M. de Lapeliu states " la the gulf of Papagayos, and on other parts of this coast,
northerly gusts come without any announcement, being felt suddenly with a cloudless
sky equally as when there is a calm or fog. In accordance with the opinions of most
navigators, I consider that it is better to keep along the land at the distance of 5 or 6
miles than to get out to sea, because at this distance the gusts, although perhaps more
sudden, have less strength and have not such long intervals between them — sometimes
indeed these intervals did not exist at all, and instead of them is met a continuous
breeze freshening every moment. If the opinion of Sir E. Belcher, Il.N., be correct
that the gusts prevail most at the distance of 15 to 20 miles from land, it follows that
if the shore cannot bo coasted at the distance of 5 or C miles, it would be better to keep
outside at about 30 or evcii 45 miles from land ; the gusts will there to a considerable
extent lose their force and become less sudden, the sea also will not be so heavy and trying.
As the vessel advances nortlierly towards the coast, the direction of the wind becomes
more easterly, and it is often possible to reach Realejo in a direct course withouttacking."

Th« COAST. — From San Juan del Sur to Tamarinda river the coast trends about
N.W. 3 W. 76 miles ; it is somewhat bold but remarkably little undulated, and it contains
hero and there sandy creeks* and clills against which latter the sea breaks with violence.
This coast is very imperfectly known, but it is believed that, with the exception of the

• Drito, a small bay about 8 miles nortliward from San Juan, hns been proposed as a terminus of
a caual from tlio lako of Nicaragua. Northward uf Urito arc sovoral Himilar Bmall bays of littla
importance.

^^m

TAMARINDA, CAPE DESOLADA.

Industrie rock, a 15-foot patch lying 3i miles off shore, in lat. 12° 4' 40", long.
86° 43' 10 ", there are no detached sunken dangers, beyond the distance of one to 1^ miles
from the coast. In the vicinity of Tamarinda the coast is described as drowned land,
being of a much lower elevation than that to the southward or northward.

Within the coast just described are the great lakes of Nicaragua and Managua, and
near the bead of the former will be seen the volcano of Mombaoho whicli bears a close
resemblance to that of San Salvador, being a rounded mountain whose Bunomii rises to
a peak.

TABKABiNnJi. — The river Tamarinds, situated in lat. 12° 9^', about 28 miles B.E.
ijy E. {true) from Corinto (Ilealejo), is oue oi the principal places in Nicaragua, whence
Cedar wood is shipped. The depot, composed of a few huts, lies G or 7 miles within the
entrance of the river. It can be reached at high water springs by vessels drawing nearly
20 feet, but great caution is requiretl as the bottom is rocky and very in'ognlar. Out-
side the entrance the depth is 4 to 6 fathoms ; hero vessels may anchor, but only daring
fine weather, as it is extremely dangerous during the bad season. The entnince-cbannel
is considerably narrowed by sand-banks, also by two rocks, the north^n of which is
covered at high water.

If intending to enter the river a vessel should first moor close in shore, and, while
waiting for wind and tide, place buoys, &c., to indicate the channel. When proceeding
up the river it will be necessary to tow or warp to the trees. In the channel the least
depth is 15 feet ; the rise of tide 8 to 12 feet. At springs the flood-tide isvery violent.
Supplies. — Besides fresh meat, which can be obtained only once a week, do provisions
are obtainable, and water cannot be procured without much difficulty.

Tho COAST. — North-westward of Tamarinda the coast becomes gradually more
elevated, forming an extensive escarpment ^riV/m unknown as Cos/rtTosca, which has the
appearance of having been scorched by a tropical sun. Costa Tosca is succeeded
by a low sandy shore, which continues until the cliffs of cape Desolada are reached in
lat. 12° 21', long. 8G° 58' 51".* The whole extent of this coast is noted to be extremely
unhealthy.

Between Tamarinda and cape Desolada 11161*0 arc throe small loading places, the most
important of which is that named San Martin. This small port is about 10 miles
from Tamarinda and consists simply of a few huts, abreast which vessels can anchor in
10 fathoms water, good holding ground. Communication with the land is very difficult
in consequence of the surf which exists continually.

Abreast the coast at Tamarinda the soundings appear to indic-ate the existence of a
flat bottom of 16 ftithoms depth. At 6 miles off Costa Tosca, tho bottom, consisting of
mud, has a depth of 10 to 18 fathoms, fulling suddenly to 22 fathoms a short distance
further off. Northward of Tamarinda as fur as San Martin, rocks extend off shore to
the distance of a mile. (Description of coast here yiven is uncertain.)

Cape Desolada may be recognised by its desolate appearance. Its rocky cliffs, though

* This position of cape Desolada ia in accordance with tho duacriptiou of the ooait given by French
navigators. According to English charts cape Desolada is situated about 30 miles farther sootbward,
in about lat. 12^ 1', long. 86° 37i'. See Instructions Natttiques {I'M)) mr le$ colea oumt du
Ci-ntrc-Amerique et du Mexique, by M.A, Pailliig, 1879, pp. a3~36 ; also AfinaUi Ilydrogra^hiquttt
vol. xl., 1877, pp. 893-397.

MARABK)S MOUNTAINS.

not of great height, are steep ; and, as rocks extend seaward from them a distance of
about 4 miles a wide berth should be given them by passing vessels. On the western
side of the point is (or was in 1852) a little plateau, with stunted trees upon it, and its
south-east side is of reddish colour and bare of vegetation. As cape Desolada is
approached the sand beach will bo observed to be bounded in some places by little
wooded cliffs, while in other parts rocks extend out a short distance into the sea.

From cape Desolaia to Castanon bluff the coast is very low and sandy, but well wooded.
It is believed that there are no detached dangers lying off it, with the exception of the
Conway,* a dangerous reef situated about three miles south-eastward of Castanon bluff,
in about lat. 12° 25', long. 87° 5'. In this locality the bottom, which consists of sand
and mud, is much deeper the same distance from shore than to the northward of port
Corinto (Realejo), there being soundings of 10 to 22 fathoms at a distance of only 2 to
6 miles from the shore.

asonntains. — The mountains in the vicinity of Realejo are very lofty and visible from
many miles at sea ; they are known as the Marabios mountains. Commencing with
Mumotombo on the !-' ore of lake Managua, which is said to be 6000 feet high, they
advance almost parallel to the coast and terminate in that named Coseguina, on the
south-east side of the gulf of Fonseca, which is estimated to have an elevation of 3800
feet. AVhen viewed from the sea off 1 ^ealojo, at an offing of some miles from the land,
at least eight of these remarkable mountains can be seen at one time, supposing th^
weather to be favourable ; of those Viejo and Momotombo are very conspicuous and
easily recognised not only by thoir great height but by their form and position. The
peaks in succession from Momotombo are Axusco, Las Filas, Orota, Telica, Santa Clara,
aii.l Viejo.

Viejo mountain appears in the ofiing opposite Realejo as a magnificent cone, having
a perceptible cavity at its summit ; it is 5557 feet high, and apparently rises from other
mountains, of which the smallest and westernmost has a well marked conical form.
Momotombo, an active volcano, is a lofty mountain whose sides are at a very sharp
angle ; it rises from lake Managua, forming as boldly and well defined as a pyramid, and
hence cannot fail to be recognised at once, especially as it terminates the chain of
mountains in an easterly direction. When viewed IVom the sea at some distance south-
ward of Realejo, Momotombo appears as an immense isolated mountain, but when seen
from Cardon island it is joined to Axusco, a volcano of less height, the two mountains
then revealing themselves as perfect cones.f Las Pilas, 8015 feet high, has two rounded
Buiumits of almost equal height which give its top a saddle-shaped appearance ; it is
not sufficiently lofty to be seen from the ofling ; this volcano became active in 1850,
after remaining quiet many years, a crater having then opened at its base. Telica is

• Tho Couway reef should Imvo a wide berth piveu to it, as the bottom in its immediate vicinity
la BO very irregular tiiat there may bo dauRcrons sunken rocks near it. If the west point of Cardon
island bo kept open of Castanon bluff, about N.W. i W., it will clear it in 7 fathoms on its south
Bide; this is quite close enough to approach the reef.

+ In the lake Matiagna, near Momotombo mountain, is an island which rises into a mountain of
oouical form, named Momotombita. Tliia is of iniich less elevation than Momotombo and not visible
from tho port of Realejo, but it is very distinctly seeu over tho land, when advancing southward along
tho coast. The two mountains are similar in shape.

PORT CORINTO OR REALEJO.

the most remarkable of the mountains between Las Pilas and Viejo ; it is a cone of
extremely regular outline, which appears to beconnected to Viejo, of which it has aboat
half the altitude, but from which it is in reality separated by a wide interval containing
the mountain Santa Clara ; — on the eastern side the mountain Orota is between it
and Las Pilas.

Having obtained sight of and recognised these monntafns, it ia easy to make the port
of Corinto (Realejo), even from a considerable distance in the offing, for both Viejo and
Momotombo are visible at about 60 miles from land. If Viejo is brought to bear N.E.
by N., and kept thus in approaching the coast it will lead to Gardon island, which ia
sufficiently high to be visible from a distance of 7 or 8 miles, where are soundings of
88 to 45 fathoms. When Viejo is recognised, if it should be on a bearing eastward of
N.E. by N., a course should be steered to get Momotombo on the bearing of E. ^ N.,
or Telica N.E. by E. i E., either of which will also lead to the port.

If it shonld so happen that the mountains are hidden by clouds, it is necessary to
make the land south-eastward of the port, somewhere in the vicinity of cape Desolada,
because of the current which is almost always to the N.N.W.* The coast should then
be followed in about 10 fathoms water, and care should be taken as Corinto (Realejo)
is approached, to keep the west point of Cardon island well open westward of Castanon
bluff, to avoid Conway reef ; on getting nearer the port the same end of Cardon island
should not be brought westward of North on account of the Castanon shoals.

co&XHTO (BBAZ.iurO). — Port Corinto, or Realejo, formed by the outlet of two rivers
named Realejo and Telica, is situated in about lat. 12° 28'. It is without doubt one of
the best harbours ou the whole Pacific coast of Central America. It is protected from
the force of the sea and winds by the peninsula of Castanon (on the southern side) ; also
by the islands of Cardon and Asserradores. The beautiful basin (estero) within has
soundings of 4 to 8 fathoms over the greater part of it. The land ou each side of the
entrance for some distance is low and wooded ; that south-eastward of it, close to the
sea, is higher than that to north-westward, but its elevation is not more than 80 feet,
and Castanon bluff is only 40 feet high.

Cardon Island, iv front of the port, divides the entrance ^'ntotwo channels, the Cardon
on the north and the Barra Falsa ou the south. This islai d is abou^ three quarters of
a mile long and a cable broad at the south end, .whence io increases a little in width
towards its other extremity. Though its greatest elevation is only 80 feet above the
eea, it appears high v.'hcn compared with the surrounding low lauJ. Its north-west
part, cape Ponente, appears of a brownish red colour ; on the side towards the land are
cliffs, which are almost perpendicular. When viewed from some distance in a S.S.B.
direction the north-west extremity of the island has the appearance of a huge rock
separated from the island by a narrow ch.'unel. Viewed from seaward Cardon island
appears not unlike a wedge, of which the higi^cst part will be the cliffs just alluded to.
Its western end consists of a sandy beach, and at its southern extremity are some

* This is chiefly neccBsary in the months between November and May, as the usual winds are then
from uorth-oastward and blowoccaaioually with considerable violence out of the gulf of the Fapagayos ;
at such times a strong current sets along shore to the north-westward.

PORT CORINTO OR REALEJO.

detached rocks. In 1852 there were only a few trees on its north and east parts, the
remainder was covered with little shrubs. These trees formed a valuable means of
distinguishing the island from Manzana, an islet off the coast a few miles north-west of
Corinto, which otherwise so closely resembles it as to be called the False Garden. The
lighthouse, lighted in 1875, also affords an excellent means of recognising the true
island.

Light, — k fixed white light is exhibited from an octagonal wood lighthouse, painted
white, erected on Cardon head, the north-east point of Garden island. The light is G4
feet above the sea and visible 12 to 15 miles. Its geographical position is lat.
12° 27' 55" long 87° 7' 4'.".

Barra Falsa. — This, the southern channel into Bcalejo harbour, is now partially filled
up (1875) aud only fit for boats ; it lies between Cardon island and Gastanon bluff.
The latter will be easily recognised because it is the western part of three islands running
off from the main and connected to it and each other at low wtter by dry sand. This
channel is three-quarters of a mile wide from shore to shore.

Oardon ObAiin*!. — This is now (1875) the only navigable entrance into Gorinto
(Realejo) harbour. It lies round the north end of Garden island, between it and
Asserradores island, and is nearly three-quarters of a mile wide from shore to shore, but
the breadth of the channel way is only one cable, being contracted to that width by the
Sawyer bank, a shoal running off from the south-west end of Asserradores island ; the
channel is consequently close under Garden head. The depth on the shoalest part of
Sawyer bank is only 8 feet, and its edge is very steep, the lead at once falling from 3
fathoms into 9 and 10 fathoms ; sometimes this edge is indicated by breakers, but more
frequently not, for which reason and also because the tendency of the flood is towards
it, additional care is required when in its immediate vicinity.

Shoal water, having a dangerous patch at its extremity named Gorgon shoal, extends
out a short distance from the north-west side of Gardon island. This patch lies nearly
a cable North from the rock off Ponente point, and there is a depth of about 6 fathoms
close to it.*

Gardon channel should not bo attempted without p pilot, and especially because there
are reasons for believing that considerable changes in it have taken place of recent
years. It is reported that soundings of 28 feet are to be found at low water on the bar
in the channel, and it is not considered safe then for vessels drawing over 20 feet to
enter. The leading mark for making the channel is, the low south end of Asser .-adores
island well open of Garden head, until Ponente point bears S. by W., when it is
necessary to change the course to south-eastward in such a manner as Ko sail close
round Gardon head.

Having entered the port through Gardon channel, soundings rf 6 and 7 fathoms will

• Gorgon shoal or rock was discovered in 1849 by Commander J. A Paynter, B.N., of H.M.S.
Qorgon. It had then 11 feet water upon it, and from it the south point of Aserradores island bore
N 80° E. ; Cardon head S. 87° E. ; aud point Pouente S. 14° \V. (Variation 9° E.) To avoid this
rook, steer towards the entrance with Cardon hoaa touching Icacos point, and when distant a good
cable from point Ponente stand out N.E by N. until Caatanon bluff opens out from Cardon head,
then round Oardon head at a short dislanoo, remembering that the current flows over Sawyer bank.

!«"

CORINTO.

Ml!

II i'

\" i

;

't^

be found for some distanco withiu. There is complete protection from all winds, and
Curdou iHland and the shoaln at the entrance keep out all heavy seas.

Pilots. — A pilot will proceed to sea as soon as a vessel is signalled from the look-
out on the north-west part of Cardoa island. Pilotage is compulsory, unless there in
unreasonable delay on the part of the pilot coming off.

Corinto, the present settlement, from which the port takes its name, is situated, we
believe, about 500 yards northward from point Icacos, the south-eastern extremity of
Asserradores island ; it does not come into view until the point is doubled. The
village of Realejo, about 4 miles higher up the river, was formerly frequented by vessels;
it is now, however, superseded by Corinto, in consequence of the river having becomo
shallow and unnavigable. Corinto possesses a custom-house and several other build-
ings ; a dagstaff will also bo observed which is used as a mark for anchoring. It is iu
communication with Leon, a city having a population of about 8500, distant about
18 miles eastward from the port. The road leading to it, is on the opposite side of
the estero, and faces the village. Since the establit hment of Corinto, the town of
Chinendega, G miles northward of Realtgo, has deteriorat<jd in couimarcial importance,
while Leon Las improved.

The port ia capable of accommodating a large number of vessels completely sheltered
from bad weather. There is never any surf on the beach and landing is easy. Vessels
anchor about 1| cables distant from the flagstaff of Corinto, in about 5 fathoms water,
ooze, good holding ground. This anchorage is extremely unhealthy during the r Hy
season, at which time the heat is oppressive, and intermittent fevers, of a very severe
kind, are prevalent.

Provisions are 80,arcG and of infcbr quality; only such being provided as are
necessary for the Pacific Mail S.S. Company, whose steamers call regularly every 14
days. If ship's storofl be required they must bo obtained from Leon ; the prices are
higtt. Good fresh water may be obtained at a place called Lemon, or 8 miles distant
from Corinto; that found at point loacos ia aoi, considered good. Wood may bo cut
on Asserradores island, but care must be taken to avoid the serpents which are almost
us numerous there as the shaiks in the estero.

Exterior Anchoraije. — The anchora^je oitside Cardm island is safe only during fine
weather, consequently when it is intended to niako a lengthened stay at the poit it is
more prudoni to outor Iho river, A very l:i,rgo vessel shoiild anchor with the uorlh
point of the island bearing East or E. \ N., iu O.J to H fathoms, bottom of mud and
black sand; if in a position more northward than this, the samo soundings will bo
found at a greater distance from the land but not from the shoals, and if more scmth-
ward a heavier sea is generally met with. This is the winter anchorage for <tll vessels.

In line weather, vessels may anchor close in at about a milo W. J N. to W. by N.
from Cardou island, with Viojo mountain bearing N.E. by N. ; the depth hero will bo
d.^ to 5 fathoms, sand and mr.d.

In 1852 the Frer.ch survey ing-ves!,! Ji'iUianto anchored hero in 41 fathoms, with
Viejo mountain boi.ring N. 84" E.; JV* wiotomho in one with Cardou island N. 87" E. ;
Telica N. 08° E. ; and the north-west point of Cardon S. 88" E.

I'iilcs. —Jt is high water at Canlosi island on the days of full and change at 8h. fim.
Spring tides riso 11 foot. An the rivor is iiscendud the timo of high water is later; at

1 t

MANZANA.

(il

7 miles up the diircrciico is 1 hour. At tho outer anchornffo the flood Htrciim flows
from N.E. to E.N.E. mid the ebb the coutrary, with a moiin velocity of about Vo <>^ ".
knot per hour.

The COABT.* — From Canlon island the trend of tlio coast is about N.W. by W.
along Asserradoves isliuul, which is low and well wooded, and has a sandy beach. A
wear approach to this shore is not rccomniended, because, if the wind should subside,
t.i current and swell would soon drift the vessel on shore. A safe distance is 5 miles,
in not less than 10 fathoms water. During winter, when tho wind sometimes blows
from South to S.AV. with rainy weather, there is also danger in remaining at anchor
oft" it, as the sea runs very high.

xtzanzana, or False Ciu-don imland, about 12 miles N.W. by W. from Oardou
island, is a small low island covered with trees, aud encircled by a beach (of
gravel) of a whitish colour.+ The island is only 1(5 feet high, but the trees upou it
render it visible at the distance of 8 miles; as these trees are almost of equal height
their tops form nearly a level line. It terminates in a very gentle declivity, especially
on its south side, where its extreme point is connected to Asscrradores iHland by a
rocky bank under water, apon which the sea almost always breaks, and over which
there is such little depth that it completely closes the channel. It is dangerous to
attempt this passage, p?en in a boat, unless in very fine weather aud at nearly high
W! ter. Between Manzaua and the main is-, another passage, even more dangerous than
that just mentioned; for, although the sea i\y it brer.ks less, and consequently does not
80 readily show the rocks and sandy shouls, there is much less water upou them than
is found in the southern passage.

It has been already stated that vessels bound to Corinto (liealejo), and unacquainted
with the bearings necessary to make the entrance of that port, have occasionally mis-
taken Manzana for Cardon, and Asserradoros for Castanon, and the passage mentioned
for the entrance to liealejo, hence navigators should be cautions to avoid being decnived
in the appearance of tho land, and should remember that, whereas Manzana is very
low and completely covered with trees, Cardon island has only a few trees oa its north
and east parts and a lighthouse on its north -oast head.

M. T. Do Lapolin of tho I'ninch surveying vessel Ihilliniile, 1852, remarks: — "lu
the event of the 'nountaius being seen it is almost iujposfliblo in mistake Mauzana for
Cardon, for Viejo boars E.N.E. from tho former island and N.E. by N. from the latter.
Viejo is so lofty that its summit i» often hidden by clouds; in such an event, tho
volcano jf Tolica, a perfect cone south of and not very far from it, wliose tummit is
rarely concealed from view, is very useful as a mark,- -from IVIanzaua it bears East,
aud fr >ni Cardon E.N.E. ; "

Tho false entrance of Manzana, in which so many ships have been wrecked through
the mistake occurring mentioned above, is fronted by a reef known as tho Bubosos,

• Tho ooatit bctwoi'ii llonlrjo aiul tlio gulf of Ponseoa hna not been Bnrvpjed, and ib known to bo
Tery imperfectly tlolincntcil in clmrtn, licnoo op.r 'luBcrirtion of it id nocoBBarily uuBatisfnotDry.

t Tlio iHiniiil of Mnn/nnn iu onlliul by llio iiilots of tlin country AHserrnilorcH isliuid ; nnd tho
latter i* known to them i\a Corinto isldtiil (Juilnirticnn NdiUi'ino, No. .'iltil, p. -Kt, 1H7'.)).

{ If the volcano of Toliua ig corrootly i)laocil uu the Adniiiatt) chart ^2117) thoso bcariugs muat
be true.

MESA DE HOLLAND AND POINT COSEGUINA.

wliich extends senward from the island more than i) miles. At its extremity arc somfl
dotathed rocks which never uncover. To clear this danger it is recommended not to
approach the coast nearer than 5 miles, uor to go into a less depth than 11 or 12fathoms.
Between the false entrance of Manzana and the Boca del Padra Ramos, the entrance
of which is divided h)' an islet, the coast is skirted by a line of reefs which extend sea-
ward a distance of 2 to 8 miles, and in which there are several passages for boats. At
4 miles from this part of the coast the soundings vary from 11 to 14 fathoms.

spock Roof. — About 7 miles N.W. by W. from Manzana island and 20 miles
B.E. by E. from Coseguina point are some dangerous outlying rocks collectively known
as the Speck reef. There are in fact two distinct rocky shoals, the outer oi which is
distant about 8 miles from the shore and separated from the inner by a channel half a'
mile wide and fathoms deep. The direction of tliis channel is S. by E. and N. by W.
[true). The outer reef is known by the nali\es as the SequedaJ de Pf^'^"nUepe ; it was
explored by the French surveying vessel VaiidreiiU, in 1872, which is ; .nchored in
the channel between the two shoals. The Scquedad de Petacaltepe is said to be ex-
tremely dangerous, as at half-tide, with a heavy swell, there are no breakers upon it,
whilst the sea breaks furiously at that time on the inner reef, which uncovers at low
water. Some rocky heads of 16 feet water have been found on the outer reef and the
pilots state that at low water springs three small pinnacles of rock are visible, awash.
At the anchorage of the Vaudreuil, in 6 fathoms water, in the passage between the
two shoals above described, the following true bearings were taken : — the centre of
Manzana island B. 51° E. ; Viejo mountain N. 80'^ E. ; the Mesa de Roland N. 83° E. ;
and point Coseguina N. 49° W. These bearings place approximately the position of
the vessel's anchorage in lat. 12° 40', long. 87° 22.^'.

Mesa do xioUand, in about lat 12° 46', is the extremity of a little mountainous chain,
which runs from the interior in the direction of the sea. It is easily recognised by the
plateau of which its summit consists, and by the largo reddish-coloured spots which
0. -cur in parts whore there are no trees. Similar spots may also bo observed upon
a lother Hat topped mountain, situaled a little more in the interior."*'

North-westward from the Rolland the land becomes very depressed and flooded, so
that it has the appearance of a largo csicro (or estuary) when viewed beyond a depth of
8 fathoms water. The shores of this apparent breach in the coast are lined with
breakers, towards which the poundings dicreaso gradually from 10 fathoms water,
which depth is distant C miles from tlie breakers. Proceeding in a north-westerly
direction this drowned land is succeeded by a sandy beach, which, at 6 miles from Coro-
guinii point, gives place to steep cliffs, rising gradually in elevation as point Coscguiim
is reached.

Point cotiegulnn. the soutli-oast point of the gulf of Fonseca, in its western and
southern parts presents to the sett moderately liigli and almost perpendicular clillH; its
northern part is, on the contrary, very low, as it consistH uf a Hiiiidy beacii. VohsoIs
may safely approach it from all directions, even to within the distance of a mile, if a
depth of H to (5 fathoms bo muintaiued; but during the flood, this ofllng would not bo

• If tlu'Bo peculiar Hppcarauoes aro ocoaiioiiod by drought, they will most probably he green durijiB
tlio rainy Boaioii.

GULF OF FONSECA OR CONCHAGUA.

sufficient, aa it might carry them into the Estero Eenl, towanlii which it flows with n
strength of IJ to 2 knots.*

<iVX.F or roNBECA. — This is one of the most important hays on tho rucific coast
of Central America, being of great extent, and remarkable both for its security and
surpassing beauty. It contains two principal harbours — namely. La Viiinii (or San
Carlos), which belongs to San Salvador; and Amapaia, a port belonging to Honduras.
Sail Lorenzo (belonging to Honduras), on the river Nacaome, is not visited by foreign
vessels. The bay, reckoning from shore to shore, has an extent of about 23 milea
north and south, and of nearly 80 milea east and west; over nearly the whole of its
area, wherever the depth of water is suitable, there is excellent anchorage. Although
known chiefly by the name of Fonseca, it is also called Araapala, Conchngua, Co^o-
gnina, Omatapa, and San Carlos ; by English shipmasters it is recognised as the gulf
of Fonseca.

In the north-western part of the gulf are several islands of considerable size, of
which that most to seaward is Manguera. These will bo described subsequently.

The mainland is divided between the states of Nicaragua, Honduras, and San Sal-
vador. The islands belong only to the two last mentioned states, and these aro
arranged as follows ; Honduras possesses Amapaia or Tigre, Sacate Grande or Velas-
quez, and Disposicion, — San Salvador owns Conchaguita, Manguera, Peiez, and Puuta
Sacate. The islands are all of volcanic origin and extremely beautiful iu appearance.

Butaro Seal. — At nearly 12 miles north-eastward from Coseguiua point (described
on page 62) is point Monypenny, which is low and swampy, and has im:r.cdiately under
it a lagoon. Thence the coast takes a sudden turn in a south-easterly direction, about
14 miles, to the mouth of the Estero Real, and is low all the way, but rises inland to
high mountain land. This arm of the sea is fronted by a bar, having over it a depth
of 16 feet at low tide; all vessels that can cross this may sail about 80 miles into tho
interior, and those of only 1 feet draft fully 60 miles. The depth within tho bar is
5 fathoms, rapidly deepening to 6 and 7 fathoms, which is maintained for many miles.
Sir E. Belcher R.N. ascended it about 80 miles in the surveying vessel Snlphi<r, and
could easily have gone further, had not tho strong head winds rendered the toil of
towing too heavy. In reference to it ho says "I am satisfied that tho stream could
have been followed many miles higher, and have not the slightest doubt that it is fed
very near lake Managua. I saw tho mountains beyond tho lake on its eastern side,
and iio land higher than the intervening trees occurred. This, therefore, would bo
tho mO' t advantageous lino for rt canal, which, by entire lake-navigation, might be con-
nectwl with the interior of the states of San Salvador, Hoiuluvas, Nicaragua, and
extended to the Atlantic. Thirty navigable miles, for vessels drawing 10 feet, wo can
vouch for ; and tho natives and residents assert 00 more ; but steamers will bo abso-
lutely necessary, to tow against tho prevailing breezes."

:piaya Qrandc, in tho Estero Keal, belonging to Nicaragua, is on the loft bank of tlio
stream, and ho rarely visited as to he a iilaco of but little cnnimorcial importance. It
is merely a port occuniod by a few soldiers.

* Bel'iher'ii olinrt toproBcitts a roef tixtciidiiiK n tliinl of a milt! ofl' the poiut; also at 8 i uiilos further
northward a reef ir hIiowu ruiin.ug nfi' the ouaat a Bimllar Jliitauoo.

GULF OP FONSECA OB CONCHAGUA.

I .1

About 8 miles vitbin Ooseguina point is the volcano of that name, notorious for its
frequent emisaiona of dust, aslies, and water. Its summit is 284;8 foet above the level
of the sea, and can bo seen at the distance of nearly 70 miles in clear weather. The
verge of the crater is half a mile in diameter. The interior walls fall perpendicularly
to a depth of about 200 feet, when the bottom of the cniter becomes flattish, with a
small transparent lake in the centre. The last grand eruption of this volcano occurred
on the 20th of January, 1835, and was attended with the most disastrous eflects.=i=

From the Estoro Real the coast tr.>nds round N.N.W., about 80 miles, to the head
of the gulf, and has soundings of H to 3^ fathoms, at 4 miles from the shore ; some dry
patches lie in the direction of E. by N., 6 miles from Monypenny point.

Amapala Point. — The western side of the gulf, point Auiapala, is of moderate height,
and bordered by a reef of rocks and sands extending some distance into the sen, and
causing heavy breakers ; thus enabling it to be easily avoided. Outside the point, at a
short distance, is a depth of to 8 fathoms.

From point Amapala the shore bends in north-westward to the outlet of a small rivp»',
and then turns north-eastward, 9 miles, to Chicareno point, round the no; in side of
which is port La Union.

The volcano Amapala, the summit of which is 1^ miles inland in a W.S.W. direction
from Chicarene point, rises to the height of 4340 feet. It has not the conical form so
characteristic of the volcanoes in this part of Central America. It is a large mountain,
with two summits contiguous to it ; of which, the highest has a gradual slope and is in
parts crowned with trees, — whilst the other, of a very rounded form, is covered with the
herb named Sacale.]- The second summit is the true crater of the volcano, and has been
extinguished for many years ; it differs little in elevation from the first.

Zia vnion. — Immediately northward of point Chicarene is the bay forming port Ln
Union. It extends 8 miles in a north-west direction and is about 8} miles broad,
reckoning from shore to shore, but the whole of this is not available for anchorage, as
extensive oyster bods and mud flats, dry at low water, lino tho northern shore, and
contract the space in which shipping can be accominodatod to not quito half that extent.
The western and northern shores of tho bay are low. Tho town, or village, stands on
tho southern shore, at about 4^^ miles from tho entrance.

From the foregoing paragraph it will bo seen tiiat tho doopost water in the port is off
tho south shore. The depth from point Chicarene to the town is (or was) 8 to 84
fathoms, and vessels may iiuclior in almost any part of it if jdccaution bo *,akon not to
got 80 close to the mud Hat as to ground whou tho tKio falls. It is cominon for very

'I'

* :

* The flumiiiit of the volcano fell in ; until thini the numiitHiii was almost nn lofty as \i(jii. It
now |)rt>B(iits BO roniiirknblo an appoiiranci', that coupltMl with itf mat vlcitiit) to tho »i'.ii it cannot bo
mistaken I'nr other nioiiutainH on th. ciniist. JlchOior givRS tliu hclglit of Cuti('f{ntiui volcano a» 8800
feet, and of Anm|>ala voicauo iiu HHliG fout.

f The horb SacaU covers the whole oninitry ctxoopt where there are truvB. It ho* a lun({ and
Htron),' flbri!, ami in thr dry Bcasun (;iv( » the landn cuvcrod li\ it a (vi'ciiliar.vftllow appearance, Bothnt,
wore it not for ihnir (;roat extent tluty might bo niistakcn for Jli'ldo of ripr Torii, Ah tlio termiuatiuii of
tbo dry Beasoi. ni>proaoheB the whole oontitry covered by it in |»»rclied and arid to a degr»«, and then
nppourN of n reddish colour ; nnniodiatoly after tho oomnioncemunt of the raiiii, this chaagM to u jmlo
Ijreen colour uiul prcKuuts ILc appearanou of j/jung lugar o<u»«i.

GULP OF FONSECA— LA UNION.

largo vessels to anchor just within the entranco in 6 to fi fathoms, rautl, boforfi the
north point of Punta Sacate conies on tho bearing of East, as they aro then sufficiently
sheltered from tho heavy seas sent in by st'ong winds from southward avd not exposed
to the intense heat prevalent further withiu tho bay. Vessels of 300 or 400 tons
generally anchor at 2 miles south-eastward from tho town, ia about fathoms, mud,
nearly midway between the town and point Chicarene.

If it be intended to remain only a short time in this part of the gulf of Fonseca, and
it be not convenient to enter the bay of La Union, vessels may anchor in the cliannel
formed by the islands Conchaguita and Punta Sacate and the coast, Tho best place
will bo at about three-quarters of a mile southward of the watering place* of Chicercno,
in 6 or 7 fathoms, mud, with point Chicarene bearing about N. ^ E., and the north
point of Conchaguita S.E. by E. i E. Such a berth should bo selected as may place
tho vessel as much as possible out of the influence of the violent sea which prevails
here when the ebb is opposed by a strong sea breeze ; and, it is recommended to moor
north and south because of the current.

Tho bay of La Union affords a land-locked anchcrago. It is not considered dosirablo
to take up a berth directly opposite the town, because in summer tho wind occasionally
blows so hard from northward, that if the anchor drag the vessel might bo on shore
before another could be let go. In some parts of it tho holding ground is not good.

The town of La Union has a population of about 1200 ; it derives its importance
mainly from its proximity to the city of San Miguel, which in February and November
(when its fairs are held) becomes a busy commercial town. Since tho creation of the
port of Aniitpala and the re-opening of that of Libertad, La Union has lost much of its
fiirnier importance. The gradual shoaling of the harbour, in consequence of the growth
of tho soft mud-flats, has also contributed towards its deterioration. A small wharf, or
jetty, ru»s off the town for tho convonionoo of boats, whicii aro able to eomo along side
it at half-tide. At low water landing is almost impossible, as tho mud-flat uncovers
far beyond the extremity of the jetty, and tho only means of going on shore is by
employing canoes which slide on tho mud. A few provisions may bo had ; there aro
fowls and fruits, but supplies for a voyage caur.i!. ])o obtained bore.

Liyht. — \ji.ved white light is exhibited fvoin tho Cdinniandant's house at tho innor
part of tho jetty ; it is 8;} foot above tho sea and visible 8 miles. Its approximate
geographical position (accoriliiig to tho observations of M. I.Iiet, coininaiulaut dii
UlhumUle, 1871) is lat. 13" 1(1 80', long. 87° 47' 10".

7'/V/<'.v. — It, is high water at La Union on tho days of full and change at 8h. lam.
Springs i iso lOil feet ; neaps 8i| foot ; noaps range 7 feet. Tho tides aro regular,
except in the rainy season, when the obb continues ratlier h)ngor than the flood ;— at
the entranoo of the bay between Chioarono and tho island Tunta Sacato. they flow
(especially tho obb) soiajti non at tho rate of 8 knots aud cause a strong raeo whicli hn

* Tliis wftt«.iin« vlftOQ in at rntlior more thBii a Mi1«» nonth^cgtwurd 'ro:n V')?!.f. iJliienrcu.^.
AUIiourIi tlio Hiirf lii'io i» iicoftuwually very l^rnvy, t'Kpc.-i^lty >iiiriiij{ a Iiiuoko from MuHwnril iviid nt u\\\
»w\ cliftiiR.' of tlio moon, wat«r can bo obt!»!noil with ilfc^My either by tliu hoso or by lllliiiK tho barrvU
oil Bhoro. Tlio wafer it »«ry aaperior in (niNlity to ib«t obtiiiiu'.l from Hio wi IIh of U Uuiou.

GULF OF FONSECA— LA UNION.

h W'

tho appearance of breakers, — In the vicinity of the town the rate is seldom more than 2
knots.

Directions. — When bound to the bay of La Union, steer for the islanr' Conchaguita,
(subsequently mentioned,) and pass it at a short distance on its west side, as you will
thus avoid getting into the bay on the north side of Amapala point, towards which the
flood tends. If obliged to tack there is plenty of room, but Amap;ila point should not
be approached nearer than the depth of 10 or 9 fathoms, because of the reef which
iiurrounds it, the edge of which is steep ; as the sea usually breaks on this reef it is not
difficult to avoid. It will bo prudent to preseiTe an offing from the land at least 1^
miles when in the vicinity of this point.

When passing through the channel between Conchaguita island and the coast it is
rncommended to keep over towards the shore of Amapala volcano, to obtain the advantage
of tho flood which here flows northward ; and, this course should be followed even as
far as Chicarone point, because immediately Conchaguita is left astern the flood divides
into two streams, one flowing northward iuto the bay of La Union, and the other north-
eastward batween Punta Sacate and Perez islands. Some care is required to avoid a
dangerous reef extending southward a third of a mile from tho south-west end of Punta
Bacate ; but which, as it is never entirely covered, presents no great difficulty. The
channel here is but little more than half a mile wide, and has a depth in the middle of
14 to 20 and 28 fathoms ; having passed through this, the bay of La Union opens to
view, and such an anchorage can be selected as may bo convenient.

Faraiionea — On the eastern side of the fairway to the bay of La Union, and just
within the entrance to the gulf, is a dangerous group of rocky islets, named the
Farallonos, among which aro some rocks under water. They lie with Monypenny point
bearing East 5i miles, and the centre of Cosoguina volcano S.E. by E., 9 miles ; close
to them all round is a depth of 8 to 10 fathoms.

XManguera. — Of the islands in the gulf of Fonseca this is most to seaward, it is
consequently tho first mot with in the approach to La Union from southward. It is
oval in form, and its extent from N.N.W. to S.S.E. is about 8^ miles, its breadth being
1} miles. Its shores are clifly, and its suran>it has an elevation of about 000 feet.
Close to it on tho south, west, and north sides, ia a depth of to 8 fathoms ; but its
eastern side has a sandy flat of 12 to 15 feet extending from it half a mile, beyond
which aro soundings of 1 and \\ fathoms. A small rocky island, named Manguorita,
lies about half a mile fi'om its south-east point ; in tho channel between is a depth of
10 to 18 fathoms.

Ooacbagulta is tho name of tho ialnnd situated 2 miles north-westward from
Manguera. Its extent is 1} 'nilr vA its form is almost circular. This inland rises
to the heighi. of about 500 feet, jd may be safely approached on all sides except tho
north-east, wlience a fli\t 10 feet under •■ .ttor, extends halfway over to Perez island, and
18 succeeded by other slmllo',\j of similar depth, Tho chainiol to La Union bay is
westward of this island, aud has a ilopth of (! and 7 fathoms ; while tlie channel cast-
ward of it, betweou it and Manguera (that which is usually followed by .< jhoIs bound
to Amapala in Tigro island), has a depth of 11 to 9 fathoms.

yam. — At 2i miles from Conchaguita in a norlh-casierly direction is Perez islund,
tiituatcdon tho vostoru odgo of a 2i-fathom flat which extends from Conchaguita in a

GULF OF FONSECA— AMAPALA.

ttOtili'easterly direction to Disposicion island, and thence to tho Bhoro. Close to the
western side of this idhind is a depth of about 1 fiilhoms, which increases to 9 and 10
fathoms towards the shore of Puuta Sacate.

As Perez island is joined to Conchaguita by a flat of only 10 to 15 feet water, vessels
approaching La Union bay (the eastern side of tho ajiproach to which is bounded by the
islands and flat) must take care that they do not get too far eastward, especially at
low tide. The flood hereabout sets north-eastward, and therefore has a tendency to
carry vessels towards the flat.

Panta 8aeat« is the name of tho island north-westward of Perez. It bounds tho
channel into La Union bay on tho east side, and is of irregular shape. A reef, already
mentioned, extends a short distance south-westward from its south-west point. Between
the island and the shore northward of it, is no safe passage, almost the whole space
being occupied by a mud flat which dries at low water. At a short distance from its
east side is an islet named Chiquito.

Oarova, Ingleaera, Sisposlelon, Valasqnez and Tlgre are islands eastward of those
just mentioned. Of these, Valasquez is the most extensive ; it is close to the shore,
and its summit has an elevation of 2220 feet. These islands are all, more or loss,
situated on the extensive shallows which prevail in tho northern part of the gulf, and
among them are many islets and rocks of which special mention need not be made. On
the north-west side of these islands is Cismuyo bay at the head of which is port La Brea,
of little importance. Disposicion is the name of tho island off the south-west side of
Valasquez, and about 1\ miles north-westward from Tigre ; it is recognisable from a
distance by its rounded summits, of which tho highest has a height of about G50 feet.
Tigre, the island most to seaward, has an extent of about 8 miles, and is almost circular
in form. It is the highest of the islands of the archipelago just mentioned, as its sum-
mit has an elevation of 2590 feet. A bank of 2^ fathoms extends 2 miles from its
south-west side, in the direction of Manguera, leaving between it and that island a
ch'knnel 2 J miles wide, and about 4 fathoms deep ; the east sido of the island, in the
direction of San Lorenzo bay, is so shallow that it is only for a short distance that
vessels can got near it ; its north side is unapproachable ; consequently, it is only along
its west sido that an approach can bo made to tho port of Amapala, whicii lies on its
north-western shore.

Amapala, since being made a free port, has rapidly grown in importance and is now
more frequented by vessels than La Union. It belongs to Honduras and is the only
port of that state on the Pacific coast. Its anchorage is extremely good, being sheltered
from almost all winds and having good holding ground, green mud. Tho usual
auchorago is in 7 or 8 fathoms about 4 cables distant from tho shore, abreast the
village, with the flagstaff bearing S. 41A° E. [tnii].

Provisions are moro easily obtained at this pltico than at Lii Union ; a kind of
market is held. Water of questionable quality can be obtainwl froui a ciisteru near tli«
shore. Among its vegetable products Iho chief are colVoe and Indigo. Tho exports
consist principally of cattle, MwUm, dye woods and other fancy woods. In gmioral th«l
climate is healthy, and, altliough intermittent fevers sometimes prevail, lliere is no
hospital to go to. Loading and discharging cargo arc carried on by means of lightora

:„e^!Kii;!i*i^?.l

GULF OF FONSECA— AMAPALA.

I)
i' f

and in general there in very little delay. Landing is easy, as the beach is sand abreaei
the village; it will, however, bo greatly facilitated when the proposed mole Is con-
Btracted.

Directions. — If, when bound to Aniapala, it be intended to nse the chamcl hetweeit
Conchutjnita and Mantjnera, steer as mach as possible midway betv/een these islands,
as thereby the deepest water will bo preserved; the deplh will be 9 to 11 fathoms.
As the north end of Manguera is rounded, the second hill of the summit of Tigre should
be brought on a N.E. by E. bearing and continued thus until the shore of that island
is distant about half a mile, when the channel to the port will become open ; in this
latter course the soundings will gradually decrease from 10 to 8 J fathoms, on mud
mixed with sand, — the lead should be kept going, especially when nearing Tigre.

The channel to Amapala is along the west shore of Tigre, between it and the ex-
tensive bank of 6 to 15 feet upon which are seated the islands Conchagnita, Perez,
Inglesera, Disposicion Ac, and which extends northward to the land. It is not quite
three-quarters of a mile wide, and in it are soundings of 4^ to 8 and 10 fathoms; as
the channel is so limited in breadth, the lead should be freely used, and especially
because the edge of the bank is steep. When running through the channel, a little
islet will bo observed close off the west shore of Tigre, to which it is connected by a
Sana bank dry at low water; it is named Caracolita, and upon it are shrubs and a few
trees. A dangerous rock lies close to the westward of this islet, which must be cau-
tiously avoided ; it is (or was) guarded by a buoy. From Caracolita islet to Amapala
the distance is about 1 } miles, and the course is along the coast of Tigre, keeping off
it a moderate distance; there is no other danger but what is close in to the shore.*

The channel eastward of Manguera, between it and the bank extending south-west-
ward from Tigi'e, is also occasionally used, especially by vessels under 16 feet draught.
From the little islet Mangaerita, off the south-east end of Manguera, steer in a N.N.W.
direction and keep the lead going to avoid getting on the bank extending from Tigre
island, and as soon as Disposicion island bears N. \ W., steer for it on that beanng
until Caracolita comes into view. When the latter bears N. \ E., the channel is open
and may be entered and followed as before.

Tides. — It is high water at Amapala on the days of full and change of the moon at
2h. 56m. The rise of the highest tide observed was 11 feet.

At the north end of Manguera the flood flows in an E.N.E. direction with a. strength
of about a milo per hour ; the ebb, on the contrary, flows between Conchagnita and
Manguera, S.S.W., at the rate of \^\ miles. It is high water here on the days of full
and change of the moon at Bh. 15m.; the rise of tide is about 10 feet.

The best time to leave Amapala is at the end of the flood and with a breeze from tho
land ; no further instructions are necessary than to reverse those already given for
entering.

nionntaina. — The mountnins nninnd tho gulf of Fouscca are very conspicuous from
the sea. Some have been mentioned in tho course of the procedinj» remarks on tho
gulf, and it now only remains for us to allude to those named Viejo and San Miguel.

* When npproQoliitiK tlin port ttio diroctinn and influence of Ibe tidal stream muBtnot be forgotten.
Tlio (loud itU nuitLward and towarUu Ibe bauks.

POKT JIQUILISCO.

«»

Towering above all other mouutaius eastward of the gulf, will be seen iu clear
weather the volcano Viejo which lias an elevation of 5557 feet. This mountain cannot
be mistaken for others, its height is so great that it bounds the view iu the eastern
horizon; hence in clear weather it is a valuable landmark. When inside the gulf, in
the vicinity of Manguera island, it will bo observed over the bay of the Estero Ileal on
a bearing of about S.E. by E. i E.

San Miguel, in about lat. 13° 24^', long. 88° 5', is north-westward of the gulf of
Fonseca. It rises to the estimated height of 6520 feet, and is a perfect cone having a
very large base. Its summit (the crater) is almost a level, there being only a very
slight concavity in the middle. The great elevation of this mountain causes it to be
conspicuous above all the hills in its vicinity; when viewed from westward it appears
detached from the surrounding land. It was in full activity iu 1852, when its summit
,was frequently hidden by a white cloud.

The COAST. — Point Amapala or Candadillo, the western limit of Fonseca bay, is
encircled by a bed of rocks and sand which extends seaward about one mile. This
danger is easy to avoid as the sea breaks continually over it. From Amapala point the
coast trends in a westerly direction about 26 miles to port Jiquilisco, and is for a few
miles fronted by a sandy beach, which is succeeded for a further distance of about
10 miles by a bolder coast, cliffy in some places ; this ceases on the bearing of San
Miguel mountain N. 18° E., and is followed by a low shore as far as port Jiquilisco,
These sandy beaches give a very deceptive appearance to the land, especially at sun-
rise and sunset, at which times it does not seem to be at the distance &om the vessel
that it really is, and the surf also apparently breaks farther from the coast than it
actually does ; hence it must bo approached with extra care, and especially too as it
has not been surveyed, and is almost unknown. The soundings fi-om a distance of
some few miles in the oflSng are believed to decrease gradually to the shore, and it is
stated that vessels may anchor off the coast if overtaken by a calm, which it is perhaps
most prudent to do, — the currents being variable, sometimes to eastward and some-
times to westward, with a strength of about 1^ miles an hour.*

At a mile distant from the shore the soundings are 8 to 10 fathoms until San Miguel
comes on a N. 4° E. bearing, when they diminish to 7 aud 5 J fathoms at 1^ miles
off the coast.

PORT jiQViLisob, named also Espiritu-Santo and Triunfo do loa Libres, consists
of a bay situated iu about lat. 1^" 10', long. 88° 18'. It has not been examined, and
the few particulars wo possess of it are not of a reliable character. It is scarcely
known in San Salvador, and it has no trade whatever. Its entrance is intricate and
much obstructed by sand-banks, upon which the sea breaks heavily. These shoals
extend about 4 miles seaward and are dangerous to passing vessels.! Within the

* Voynge of the SMeuse, in the Annalcs Ilydrognqihiqucs, Vol. 10.

t A iliviif?«r(ni8 glioal, witli about 12 feet water over it, lins been report-oil as existing oflf this
linit of tiie couHt, in lat. 13" 2', k)n^'. 88" I'J' ((iii|iroxiuiatt). Aceonliiig to tlio Btatcmont, it is
a miles lou« in a N.K. and S.W. direction, and from its centre San Mif/uel volcano beiirn N.N.E.
Two vessels are asserted to Imve struck on it, at au estiiuatod distance fr^m tbo shore of about
10 miles. It is known as the Leiuiia shual.

The existence of this rciioited shual is discredited. Tlio rxuniinatiouB of this locality made by

PORT JIQUILISCO.

'■/!

entrance are some islands, one of which, named, Pajaros, divides the bay into two
parts. The average depth in the channel is stated to be about 8 fathoms; honce, if
this be correct, there is water sufficient for large vessels. When intending to enter, it
Trill be prudent to send a boat ahead to sound the passage, should it so happen that a
pilot cannot be obtained.

M. Jamin of the French ship Genie wrote thus a few years ago : — «' On the evening of
the 25th January wo got under way from the river Lempa, with a good S.S.E. breeze,
which enabled us to I'un along the coast in about 8 fathoms, and at sunset we observed
fiome breakers opposite us which appeared to extend a considerable distance from the
land; we then anchored in about 8^ fathoms, soft mud. The next day we got under
way again, and it was then easy to see the breakers, which extend across the Estero
in the form of a horse-shoe, in such a manner that the bay can only be entered by
going round them ; the sea broke over them with considerable violence, but there are
places among them where in fine weather there are no breakers, which might con-
sequently be easily traversed by boats.

The depth in the deepest part of the channel at low water is 15 feet; the rise is
about Of feet. It is therefore possible for vessels of considerable tonnage, to get
within the breakers, where there is a much greater depth of water, with the exception
that in two or three places there are some small banks ; those may, however, be easily
avoided.

The ebb current leaving the Estero forms eddy streams in which there is a good
depth of water, and these eddies are also to be seen in the deepest places on the reef ;
hence the position of the navigable channel is well indicated. The current flows in an
opposite direction with the flood, — at the rate of 2 or 8 knots at full and change, when
the bar is very dangerous, except at the time of high water."

M. Lapelin of the French ship Brit nte, 1852, says "The coast between the river
Lempa and port Jiquilisco is low and wooded, but the beach, which in the neighbour-
hood of the river is of very white sand, becomes here of a well determined gray colour.
The soundings ofl" it at the distance of a mile are regular, the depth at that offing being
7 fathoms, on a bottom consisting of sand covered with a very tenacious slimy mud,
good for holding; apparantly there are no sunken dangers. Near Jiquilisco, the coast
(similar in appearance to that immediately westward of it, being backed by some wooded
hills, and fronted by a beach so low as frequently to be hidden by the heavy surf that
breaks on the bar) is intersected by several rivers. The bay of Jiquilisco, unliko what
may be remarked of the rivers Lempa, Paza &c., has not about it large mangrove trees
BO conspicuous with their white trunks, but clumps of thickets of a dirty pale green
colour, or great bushes comparatively leafless.

Wo approached the breakers as near as half a mile, coasting them from West to

M. Lapolin of the French ship Brilliante in 1852, also by M. Lefevre of the French ship Vaudreuil,
in 1872, establish tlio fact that uo danger exists beyond the diatanco of 4 milca from the coast. It
is couBe'iuently considered probable that the reported shoal is one and the same as th,; which ia
known to extend about i miles off the entrance of Jiquilisco bay, — an opinion which is not only held
by the last numcd surveyor but also by tho Spanish pilot at San Job6 de Guatemala.

IMAGE EVALUATIOM
TEST TARGET (MT-S)

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I.I

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s la 1 1 2.0

Photographic

Sciences

Corporation

14 111.6

33 WIST MAIN STRUT

WHSTIM,N.Y. MSIO

(716) •73-4S03

7.1

fiutp<i0* 71

LonuOM. Jtmit Imrior J; Sou .

RIYEIi LEMPA AND LIBERTAD.

East, and had never less than 6 fathoms. When wa were eo tax from them aa a mile
to 1^ miloB, although the colour of the water was a very marked yellowish green, we
had soundings of 7i to 8^ fathoms. Duriag oar rauning survey we '^jund the bottom
vety even, and the neighbourhood of the bar was always indicated by a gradual decrease
of the soundings. The bottom consisted of a very fine gray sand, which offered but
little resistance; hence if there is an intention to remain here for a short time,
anchorage should be sought at about H miles westward of the bar, where is slimy mud
mixed with black sand excellent for holding."

BZVBB ZiiiMrA. — The entrance to this river is similar in character lo the others
westward of it, large trees, with white trunks and bare tops rising above the lower
wood, being observable on its shores. It is situated a few miles westward from port
Jiquilisco and runs within a league of one of the arms of Jiquilieco estero.

The Lempa is the largest river in the state of San Salvador. Notwithstanding its
great length and breadth and the immense quantity of water it contains, it is not
navigable for more than 8 leagues from its entrance, — that is, with river steamers.
Farther up, owing to the numerous sandbanks and rapids, navigation is almost im-
possible. Its bar which extends out a mile or li miles from the land is said to be
impassable at the present time (1872) : it should be carefully guarded against by vessels
coasting in the locality. From the entrance the volcano San Salvador bears N. 60" W.,
that of San Vicente N. 16° W. and that of San Miguel N. 60° £. The mean velocity
of the current of the river is 4 to 6 miles per hour. On the left bank are (or were)
«me fishermen's huts.

From tbe river Lempa to Libertad, a distance of about 60 miles, the coast is believed
to be free from outlying sunken dangers, and it is said that there are regular soundings
off it, which decrease gradually from the depth of 60 fathoms. At a mile from tho
land the average depth is 7 fathoms, fu fine sand and mud. The land, bordered with
a belt of white sand, consists of an extensive plain, from which rises in the distance
the volcanoes San Vicente and San Miguel ; these are of great altitude and visible from
a distance of many miles.

Oon«ordia, a port of recent creation, is at tho entrance of the river Jiboa, at about
11 miles westward from the mouth of Lempa river. This anchorage serves as the port
of the town of San Vicente. We have no further information respecting it.

ZiiBBBTAJ). — This port is almost an open roadstead, with scarcely any shelter. It
is one of tbe ports of entry of San Salvador and is connected with the capital of the
republic by a good cart road about 26 miles long. The village of Libertad consists
merely of a few houses (or huts) attached to which is the custom-house establishment.
It possesses a mole which is about 220 yards in length and has at its extremity a white
building which is the first house observable when coming from seaward.

Light. — Ajiived white light is exhibited from the western angle of tho balcony of tbe
custom-house, visible 6 or 7 miles. Its approximate geographical position is lat.
18° 80' 40", long. 89° 16' 80". The light is obscured by a building between the
bearings of N. by W. and N.N.W. i W.

Teleijraph, — Libertad is in telegraphic communication with the capital, San Salvador,
also with Aof^utla and Sonsonate ; tho telegraph terminates at tho frontier of Quatemala.

LIBEBTAD.

Supplies. — Very few supplies ore obtainable at Libertad ; meat of inferior qnslity, s
few fowls, also live oxen are the most likely things to be had, bnt there is no frnit.
Water is obtainable with some difficalty, from the little river Qaelama, situated at rather
less than half a mile westward from the houses. The port can be considered a safe
roadstead only during fine weather, or when the wind is from northward; it should not
be visited from July to October.

Directions. — When bound to port Libertad, vessels from southward should sight the
volcano San Salvador, and steer with it bearing N. i E., as it will then lead them to
the roadstead. If from eastward or westward, a better course cannot be adopted than
to follow the coast at an offing of 6 or miles, supposing the weather to be favourable
for so doing, there being no objects immediately over the town sufficiently conspicuous
to be visible from a distance.

If approaching the port directly from southward, soundings of 27 and 25 fathoms,
mud, will be obtained at about 8 miles from the land, which thence decrease gradually
to the beach. A nearer approach will bring into view a large white warehouse covered
with tiles, having on its east side a flag-staff, and on its west side a large white house ;
the house is perhaps more conspicuous than the warehouse. And, when still nearer
the land, the cottages thatched with palmetto leaves will rise into view.

The depth at a mile from the land is about 8 fathoms, muddy sand. Although this
depth is perhaps considerable for some merchant vessels to anchor in, it is a bettor
anchorage than nearer the shore, the bottom closer to the beach being not so good io
quality, it is however a little too far out for loading and unloading cargo. Near the
beach the bottom consists at first of fine sai.'? and afterwards of pebbles or gravel.

The rollers which set in on the beach curl and break at times in 4 or 6 fathoms, at
least a quarter of a mile off. Those within, which are the most dangerous, aii<e cansed
by the offset, or efflux.

The anchorage is said to be uneasy, and unsafe, and should be avoided near the full
moon. Sudden rollers come in, which are apt to snap chain-cables, unless with a long
range.

Til* OOAST. — From Libertad to Ac(\jutla the distance is about 80 miles, along a
coast believed to be free from any outlying sunken dangers and supposed to have a bank
of soundings from it to the distance of 10 or IS miles. At 1 to 2 miles from the beach
the depth has been ascortainod to be 18 to 10 fathoms, muddy sand. Westward of
Libertad for a distance of 6 or miles the shore consists of grey sand with mangroves,
and is of moderate height. This sandy shore is then succeeded by land of greater
elevation, which is known as the Cute du liaume or the Costa del lialsamo. It consist!
of a succession of rocky undulating points and perpeadioular cliif^ separated here and
there by little bays having beaches of sand and shingle. This district produces an
article known commercially as the Balsam of Peru, from its having been sent to Lima
for export to Europe ; it is collected solely by the aboriginal Indians who inhabit the
locality. The wosteru oxtroino of this part of the coast is terminated by a oonspiououa
rooky capo, with a well wootlod summit, and having in its iniraodiato vicinity several
romarkublo hillocks, covered with trees. Thence as for as point Romodios, Aoi^atla»
thi) coast consists of au uulutorrupted grey sandy shore, surmounted by mangroves,

POINT REMEDIOS AND ACAJUTLA.

.73

behind which are seen hillocks partially covered with trees. lu the vicinity of Acajutla
the country ia less high, more level and well clad with trees.

The volcanoes Yirola, San Yiceuto or Sacatecolaco, and San Salvador, situated some
miles inland, are a great assistance to vessels bound to ports Libertad and Acajutla,
as they are visible from a distance of many wiles at sea.

Yirola, situated in lat. 1& 26' between the volcanoes San Miguel and San Yicente,
consists of high lands among which can be distinguished a mountain with many peaks
as well as a cone having the appearance of an old volcano ; this cannot be seen from a
great distance.

San Yicente, in lat. 1 ;° 85', long. 88° 69' H" (M. Lapelin), has an elevation
of abont 6900 feet. It rises in the form of a truncated cone, the summit of which,
viewed from eastward or westward appears cleft, one summit being more rounded than
the other.

San Salvador, in lat 18° 48' 80", long. 89° 21' 21" (M. LapeUn), has an elevation of
about 6480 feet, and can be seen when at the distance of fully 60 miles from the land.
Yiewed from the sea it appears behind the mountain chain in the form of a very large
mountain, with a flat summit, in shape not unlike the back of a tortoise. At its ex-
tremity is a peak rather more lofty than itself.

Veint XMiMdioa is a low cliffy headland, thickly clad with mangroves and easily
recognised. Rooks above and under water, over which the sea breaks violently, extend
two or three miles off the point in a south-westerly direction. To avoid this danger
Tessels should not approach the eoast hereabout nearer than 4 miles, nor within the
depth of 18 fathoms. The bay eastward of the point is shallow, the depth at 1}^ miles
from the shore being only 6 or 6 fathoms; as the point is rounded, coming from east-
ward, the soundings gradually increase.

AOAjrvrxji.— From point Remedies the coast has a direction of N.N.W. for about
8^ miles to Acigntla, the port of Sonsonate, and consists of oliffs intersected with little
beaches of white sand. At the end of these cliffs is the landing place, the town itself
being situated on the summit of the cliff ; the town is but a small place defended by a
battery, and conspicuous among the huts will be seen a tiled building occupied as a
custom-house, near which is a flag-staff.

The roadstead is merely an open bay, exposed to all winds from westward ; these
occasionally send in a very heavy sea, hence it is not considered a desirable anchorage,
especially in winter. Acajutla is one of the principal ports of San Salvador having a
population of about 600 souls ; its geographical position is stated to be lat. 18° 85',
long. 89° 48' 80" (Captain W. U. Parker, P.M.S.S. Co.). At about 4 leagues
from this port, in the interior, is the town of Sonsonate, situated at the foot of the
▼oloano Isaloo ; this town has a population of 6000 to 6000.

A well-built mole extends out about 60 yards from the custom-house, which is situated
on the summit of the eliff. Upon the greater part of this mole is constructed a shod,
with a white roof ; the latter affords a ready means of recognising the place at a con>
siderable distance. The heavy seas which break upon the beach have formed a
dangerous bar, which is distant more than 100 yards outside the extremity of the mole,
rendering lauding exceedingly diflioult at tiuios,

ACAJUTLA.

Liyht. — k fixed light, visible 7 or 8 miles, is exhibited from the extremity of the mole.
It shows red to southward, green to northward and a irAt'te sector between. The direc-
tion of the best anchorage is in the sector of white light. To clear the danf^ers off
Remedies point do not bring the light to bear to the northward of N.N.E. ^ E.

Baoys are moored 60 yards from the mole-head, one on each side, to fiMilitate
communication.

Direetioju. — ^When bound to port Aoigntla it is recommended to get sight of the
volcano Isalco, and bring it to bear N.E. by N., as that bearing leads directly to the
anchorage. The mountain is situated about 12 miles from the coast, is 4972 feet
high, and behind it are others of much greater altitude ; it is easily recognised,
although there are peaks in its neighbourhood very similar in appeararce, because it
is an active volcano. The column of smoke and steam constantly ascending from it and
the frequent eruptions of molten lava, render it conspicuous both day and night,— it is
also not of sufficient height to be so frequently hidden by clouds as are the more lofty
mountains in the interior. From these circumstances it is a very useful landmark to
vessels seeking the ports of San Jose, Acf^utla and Libertad.

The usual anchorage in fine weather is abreast the extremity of the mole in 7 to 10 -
fathoms, sand and mud, abqnt half a mile from the shore, with mount Isalco bearing
from N. 88° E. to N. 80° E. During the rainy season, when the swell of the sea is
very great and the winds from S.S.E. to B.W., occasionally very violent, it will be
necessary to anchor farther out, in not less than 12 fathoms.

A good mark when running for the anchorage is the flag-staff in one with the large
door of the custom-house store. If it be necessary, vessels may tack without hesitation
as there are no sunken dangers, with the exception of those already mentioned aroond
point Remedies, and the soundings are an excellent guide.

The anchorage cannot be considered convenient on acconnt ofthediffioalty of loading
and unloading eargo ; it is however safe in fine weather. Unless oironmstances compel
a visit it is as well to avoid it during the months from July to October, because at thaft
time very heavy seas are sent in by strong winds from seaward. Nor, can the holding
ground be considered good, for the Heroine when anchored in 16 fathoms mod, dragged
both her anchors although the chains nere 142 fathoms long.

It is high water on the days of full and change of the moon at 2h. 85m. The rise
of tide is about 9 feet. The set of the current is variable ; during the fine season,
however, it is generally E.S.E., at the rate of V^f of a mile per hour.

SupplUi of fresh provisions, as well as cattle, wood, sugar, &e. &c., can be obtained
at Sonsonate, at reasonable prices ; it is necessary, however, to give two days' notice
if a large quantity of provisions is required. Coffee, sugar and indigo are cultivated
in the locality. Water may be procured at the mole-head, whither it is carried by meana
of iron pipes.

Actgutla was visited in 1869 by H.M.S. Havana, Captain T. Harvey. " Starting
from San Joso do Guatemala on May 24th, we worked down to Ac^jutla. Between
these places a ship may stand in safely by the lead, as it shoals gradually and regularly
to 10 and 12 fathoms at 8 miles from the shore. In the afternoon of the 20th we
anchored at Aoc^ntla, with point Itemedios and the shoal from it ahelteriog as from south-

ACAJUTLA.

OMtward. Here we found a Babstantially bailt wharf, at which there is generally a
fiiur landing, although at times the surf is suzh as to prevent any approach. Merchant
ships discharge and receive cargo by their own boats. On the 27th the breakers on the
shore were so trifling that our cutters landed on a wooding expedition in parts of the
bay without the slightest difficulty ; but on the 29th the surf was so heavy that it was
extremely hazardous even at the wharf, and four hours were occupied in watching oppor-
tunities to embark supplies. Beef, stock, vegetables and fruits may be obtained in any
quantity from Sonsonate ; but two days' notice must be given to secure any consider-
able amount. The pier, happily, is provided with cranes, which we had to use in
getting off bullocks. We anchored in 12 fathoms with the landing place beanug
N. 66° E. A vessel should not stand nearer to Remedies reef than the depth of
20 fathoms, unless with a good breeze and clear weather. The volcano Isalco was
burning during the whole of our stay, — no lighthouse gives a better light. This volcano
bearing N.E. by N., is a good mark for the port."

Captain W. H. Parker, F.M.S.S. Go. (1871) gives the following instructions for
Ac^jntla : — " In making this port from the westward you can run the coast from San
Jos6 2 or 8 miles off-shore. The low land and beach extend to Actgutla, which
is on a moderately high bluff. As you draw near yon will make the custom-house and
wharf on your port bow, and point Remedies and reef on your starboard bow. The
reef shows well out of the wcter and breakers extend some distance beyond the rooks.

Actgutla is on a bluff, as already observed, and from the town to point Remedios there
are strips of sand-beach showing much whiter than the beach to the westward of the
bluff. At the back of the town and point the land breaks in moderately high hills,
which will be seen when the mountains and volcanoes are obscured. In the dry season
there are so many fires on the mountains that Isalco cannot always be distinguished.
The land, though, to the eastward is high down to the sea — to the westward low, with
many huts on the beach — detached and in groups.

Making the port from the southward you will see the custom-house 12 miles off, with
a good glass. Keep 4 miles off point Remedios and anchor as hereafter directed. In
making Ac^jutla from the eastward, you will open the white house on the wharf as you
round point Remedies. Having cleared the reef, steer about North along the land,
until you open the old custom-house clear of the bluff, and having the wharf bearing
about E.iN.E. run directly for it, and anchor in about 10 fathoms water.

I anchored here in 9} fathoms, sticky bottom, and lying with 80 fathoms of chain
out, with the ship's head to the southward, I took the following bearings : — Old
oustom-hf use, N.E. ^ N. ; end of wharf, E. J S. ; point Remedios, S.S.E. f E. ;
wharf distant about three-fourths of a mile. When the ship swung with her head to
the northward, I had the street leading to the wharf in view.

Keep the old custom-house open vtith the bluff to avoid some rocky patches."
«»• OOABI.— From Aciyutla to Istapa the distanoo is about 66 miles in a W.N.W.
direction. The coast oonsistd of a beach of greyish-coloured sand, backed by a well-
wooded shore, interrupted in a few places by some rivers among which are those named
Grande, Oaota, Santiago, Paza and Esclavos ; the entrances to these are generally
indicated by the white trunks of mangrove trees, but none are of importance. The

ISTAPA.

land at a few miles from the coast rises into moontains, among which will be noticed th«r
Table of Apaneca, 6709 feet high, sitnated a little westward of the meridian of Aet^atla,
and the Morro de los Esclavos with its ronnded summit, the elevation of which is
estimated to be 4828 feet ; between this latter and the meridian of Istapa are
moautains of even greater altitude.

Agua rises in the form of a perfect cone to the height of 18,468 feet, and it
apparently connected on its west side to Fuego volcano by means of a ridge of eon*'
siderable altitude ; the hitter mountain has two peaks at its summit, of nearly equal
size and appearance, one of which is always surmounted by a panoply of smoke ; — the
height of this volcano is estimated to be 14,000 feet. It is only in very olear weather
that the lofty volcano westward of Fuego can be distinguished ; it is either Atitlan or
T^jamnlco>i< ; if the latter, it has a height of about 11,480 feet, and its summit formi
three peaks, one of which, the middle and highest, is active. Paeayo, eastward of
Agua, is 9694 feet high, and easily recognised by its jagged and irregular sommiif
which conveys the idea of a crater fallen in.

The surf upon all this coast is extremely heavy, especially when a strong wind has
prevailed a few days from southward. It is believed that no sunken dangers exist off
it, and the soundings obtained indicate great regularity in the bottom, which consists
apparently of muddy sand. The depth at about half a mile from the beach is 18
fathoms, and at from 1 to 8 miles 22 to 28 fathoms ; in the neighbourhood ot A' ;\intU
the bottom is not so steep. The usual direction of the current appears to be bom
West to East, following the coast, at the rate of a half to 1 mile per hour.

XsUpa. — Istapa, formerly a port of some importance but now quite deserted, is an
open roadstead, exposed to all winds from southward. The usual anchorage is at half a
mile from shore, in 16 to 18 fathoms, muddy sand. In 1862 the BrUliante anchored
with the volcano Agna bearing N. 8* 21' W. ; right peak of Fuego N. 16° 81'- W. ;
volcano of T^amulco N. 84° 68' W. ; left summit of Paeayo N. 12" 48' E. ; and the
left summit of Esclavos N. 79° 16' E. (Variation 7* 89' E.). The depth at 4 miles
from the land is 20 fathoms, mad, whence it gradually decreases to the beach.f

If mount Agua is brought to bear N. i W., Fuego N. by W. i W., or Picayo
N. by E., it will lead directly to Istapa. When on any of these lines of direction the
depth at a few miles from the land is 80 to 26 fathoms, whence it diminishes gradually
to the beach. A low sandy shoro, covered with wood, at last comes into view ; and
among the trees will be seen a few grass huts, forming the village of Istapa.

The bar at Istapa is so bad during July, August aud September, as frequently to
prevent a landing. The bottom at the anchorage at this season is so much influenced
by the heavy seas sent in by the strong on-shore winds, that much dependence cannot
be placed upon the anchor holding. The coast being very steep, the bar is not fax frv>m
the beach. With a northerly wind and at the period of full aud change of the moon
the bar is frequently impracticable.

* T%|«mnloo is tituatod in lat. 14" 86', aud is about 38 miles weitward from latopa ; AUtkm la
in about lat. 16° I'i'.
t Istapa Las boon clusod as a port for foreign vessel* siuoe 1853, whan it wu mpersaded bj Baa

iotti, tlie t^resent port of Quatemala.

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LONDOH. Juntii Imii^StSon.

8AM JOSE OE GUATEMALA.

The edrrent follows the line o' coast, flowiag from West to East, at a rate of
tV to l-rV miles per honr.

SAW joaa. — ^From Istapa the coast treads abont 8 miles in a westerly direction to
San Jose de Guatemala or Zapote, bat which is better known nuder the name briefly
of San Jose. Its approximate geographical position is lat. 18° 56', long. 90° 45' (Nav.
Officers, H.M.S. Tenedos, Fantome and Petrel, 1874).

' San Jose has a popolation of 800 to 1000; it is a port of some importance as the
only landing place for goods on the coast of Guatemala; with this exception, it has no
olaim to the name of a port, being merely an open roadstead. The few grass honses
composing the town are bnilt among the trees on a high dark sandy beach ; a large
white storehonse, which can be seen at a distance of 6 miles, forms the only mark
on the coast for the port. San Jose is in telegraphic communication with the capital.

The anchorage is opposite the white house, in 8 to 18 fathoms sand, distant about

I or 1^ miles from the land. An iron pier, 8Su yards in length, furnished with all the
necessary appliances for loading, &c., has recently been constructed; at its extremity
the depth is 6i fathoms. .A steamer from Panama calls here once a fortnight.

A strong wind from southward sends in so heavy a sea that at times a landing cannot
be effected, and at the same time disturbs the bottom so much that the anchors fre-
quently drag ; hence it can be considered a safe anchorage only during the fine season.

There is some difficulty in finding the anchorage of San Jose, the cobst line in the
neighbourhood being one unbroken line of beach and trees ; the best marks, however,
on coming from seaward, are the remarkable volcanic peaks of Guatemala, generally
visible at dawn ; four of these peaks can be seen from the anchorage on the following
bearings: — Tiyamulco N.W. } N., El Fuego N. by W. i W., La Agaa North, and
Pacaya N. by E. i^ E. El Fuego and La Agna being the nearest and most con*
spicuous, the former may be known by a deep notch in its summit, while the latter
being brought to bear North, forms the best guide till the white storehouse can be
distinguished.

Light. — kJUced white light is exhibited from the custom-house, visible about 10 mileii ;
it is not, however, to be depended on. At the end of the pier a small iron tower stands
which was intended for a lighthouse, but no light is now shown from it. The mark
for the best anchorage is the light at the custom-house eclipsed by the tower on the
pier-head.

Approachbg San Jose from eastward or westward the land for a short distance from
the port may be coasted at a moderate offing, as it is believed to be free from sunken
dangers, but it must be borne in mind that, as it has not been surveyed, more than
usual care should be exercised ; giving the shore a berth of 2 or 8 miles will be as
dose to the beach as a prudent shipmaster should get, and he will then have soundings
of 22 to 15 fathoms, — if this distance is maintained the land breezes will be of con-
siderable advantage. In the event of the wind prevailing from S.W. or W.S.W., it
will be safe in the boards to get as close to the land as one mile, in soundings of 10 or

II fothoms, but not nearer. The lead should be frequently hove, the soundings being
an excellent guide, as they shoal gradually. If the sea wind fail without being suc-
ceeded by a strong land wind, it is recommended to anchor for the night, that the
jprQgreuiJuind doriDg the day may not be lost.

BAN JOSE.

If the port be approached directly from touthward, the volcano Agaa sbonld he
brought to bear North, or that of Faego N. 14° W., as either of those bearings will
lead to it. When these monntains are hidden by haze, it is recommended to make the
land about Istapa, and thence approach the roadstead until the flagstaff of the eostom's
establishment bears N. 20° W., when the anchor may be east in the depth most eon-
▼enient.

The nsnal supplies for shipping ean generally be obtained at San Jose bat only in
small quantities, and at high prices. Beliance should not, however, be placed upon
getting them, as the village consists of but little else than a few hots i.ihabited by the
staff of the custom-house ; even water has to be fetched from some distance in the
interior.

The winds at San Jose, as on other parts of the coast c! Central America, are, from
November to May, generally from S.S.E. by South to West, frc>m lOh. a.h. to 8h. or
9h. P.M., a short interval of calm then follows, which is succeeded by a light wind from
North to N.E. From June to Novjmber a vessel should not anchor here nnless at a
distance from the shore snfScient to permit her to beat off with ff.eility when the winds
are from South and S.W. which often blow with very great force and raise a very
high sea.

Captain W. H. Parker, P.M.S.S. Co., makes the following remarks on San Jose
(1871) : — " Approaching San Jose a large white house will first be observed on the
port bow, after which yon will make out a long wharf extending into the sea, with
launches moored off it. Keep the buoy off this wharf a little on your port bow, - ound
to off the end of the wharf, 100 yards outside of the buoy, and anchor in di or 10
fathoms water and you will then be about one-third or one-half mile from the end of
ihe wharf. Do not go to the buoy as it is rather dose in.

You will find tolerable holding ground, generally mud and sand. The Oommandante
informed me that there is 81 feet water at the end of the wharf, and 7i fathoms at the
buoy at low water, but you should not go into less than 9i fathoms.

At this anchorage the flagstaff on the custom-house (large white house) is in one with
the end of the wharf, and will bear about N. i W.

The wharf at San Jose is built with iron screw piles, and is, I believe, 900 feet long.
All freight is pat into the boats or taken from them by cranes at the end of the wharf,
outside the breakers. A railway runs from the cnstom-houso to the end of the wharf,
with cars moved by hand.

There are many launches here and the Captain of the Port sends them off as soon
as you anchor. San Jose ie in lat. 18° 58', long. 90° 49'.

There is a light here on the top of the custom-house (not in the lighthouse at the end of
the wharf), hnt it cannot he depended on. I have never yet found it lighted when
making the port at night. I believe it can only le seen 6 or 6 miles at sea.

As a general rule no work is done at San Jose (nor at Acojutla nor Libertad) at
night. Leaving Aoapulco for the former place, if yon find it impossible to reach there
before night, it is better to slow down, and aim to reach there at daylight. In this
way you economize in coal, avoid unnecessary risk, and save yourself much anxiety.

If the weather is good, however, and the night moonlight, they will sometimes worhi

SAN GEHONIMO, TECOJATE, AND SAN LOUIS.

as the last time I was there nnder these circomstanees, I took in 898 sacks of cuffuo
and 110 of sugar, between 6 p.m. and 7 a.m., detention thirteen hours, working two
lannches.

In the rainy season it may be better to anchor a little farther ont from San Jose,
bnt yon will be governed by the weather. A sooth-easter brings in a heavy sea, and
sometimes communication is impossible. This whole coast is at that season subject to
very violent squalls ot wind and rain, attended with heavy thunder and very vivid
lightning. These squalls are called Chubascos."

Currents. — No reliance can be placed on the sei oi' the currents oo this coast. Off
Sbci Jose it will sometimes ran west for three day i, vind then east for the same length
of time. I have been set in both directions ;t dilT(M-«nt times when running for the
anchorage from the southward. I think generally tbo eaFlorly set proTaiis.

When apnroaohmg the coast for the Gralf of ToLrrtntepeo yon will frequently be set
in towards the shore, and you must be on the lookout for this, particularly in dark
nights. Keep the lead going. I have been set to the eastward a knot ox uiore an hour
from the Gulf to San Jose.

When making this anchorage from the S.E., the only safe way is to be sure and
make the land to the eastward of the port. The beaiing of Agaa volcano is of great
tssistance to yon here, if it can be taken."

Tb« OOAST from San Jose to the frontier of Mexico is very little knovni, hence we
are not able to describe it satisfactorily. It is reported to be low, sandy and inter-
sected by lagoons, which communicate with the sea by means of narrow passes,
accessible only by boats. The mountains lying behind this flat coast are of great
elevation, many of the voloanio peaks being visible at the distance of 40 miles from
the shore.

San OMTonimo. — This village, distant about 26 miles westward from San Jose, is
situated at the mouth of the river Guacalate, on which are the towns of Ghimaltenango
and Antigua, in the interior. It consists merely of a collection of huts, with one large
house, where sugar is stored ready for shipment. Its approximate geographical posi-
tion is hit. 18° 62', long. 91° 16'.

There is good anchorage off the village, in the fine season, in 6 to 8 fathoms, with
Agua volcano bearing N. 17° E. Being an open roadstead it is exposed on all sides,
and should be avoided in bad wer.lher.

The port of clearance for this port and for the other small ports of this part of the
coast, is San Jose de Guatemala.

TMojat*. — This port, situated nearly 8 miles north-west of San Geronimo, is very
inferior as an anchorage to the other ports of Guatemala, because the bottom is com-
posed of sand of a shifting nature which necessitates the anchor being raised eveiy
day. Teoojate is built on the right bank of the entrance of Coyolate river; on the
opposite side stands the village of Tiquisate. The nearest town is Santa Ana Mixtam,
distant about 10 miles in a north-westerly direction.

man iMoiM. — This place is known by two large sheds (probably storehouses for coffee)
with huts on each side. It in situated at the entrance of the river Samala, and its ap-
proximate geographical position ialat. 14° 13', long. 91° 47' (Oapt. Parker, F.M.S.S. Co.).

rw^m

CHAMPERICO, TONALA BAR, &c.

Daring the fine soanon, ft-o'.n the middle of Octoher to the end of May, vessels can
anchor here without risk ; but at other times of the year the anchorage shonld bo
avoided, ns dangerons. This port is connected by road with tho principal towns of
the province ; namely — Maz^tengo, Retaluleu, and Qaezaltenango.

Cbamperteo. — Champerico, 12 miles north-west fiom San Lonis, may be known
from seaward ly a large white bouse, a white flagstaff and a number of hnts. Its
approximate geographKiuI position is stated to be lat. 14° 20', long. 91° 57' (Captain
Parker, P.M.S.S. Co.}, and it is distant about 76 miles from San Jose. During
the dry season many vessels load coffee here ; daring the wet season, from July to
November, the anchorage is extremely bad, as the sea then breaks fnrioasly a considerable
distance froin shore. The anchorage may be fonnd by steering directly for the flagstaff
until the lead indicates a depth of 6 to 8 fathoms From this anchorage Fuego volcano
will bear N. 65° E. ; and Agaa volcano, distant about 80 miles, N. 68° E. The
merchandise exported from this port, which is increasing in importance, comes chiefly
from tho towns of Retalulec and Quezalteuango, which are 20 to 80 mil(>s inland.

Ttaa COAST. — From Champerico the coast trends north-westward and westward
about 200 miles to the entrance of the great lagoons of Tehuantepeo, named the Boca
Barra, also known as the San Francisco bar. Of all this coast we possess little or no
information, and we believe that it contains no ports that are frequented by foreign
vessels. It is said to bo low and sandy, and to contain many lagoons vhich communi-
cate with the sea by means of narrow channels navigable only by boats. The mountains
behind this low flat shore rise to a great height, and many of the volcanic peaks are
snfliciently lofty to be visible when at the distance of 40 miles from the land.

The soundings off this coast are regular, and no known danger exists at a greater
distance than one mile off shore. The whole coast from Tonala bar to San Jose can.bA
run at a distance of 8 miles, in abi^ut 7 or 8 fathoms water.

In lat. 14° 48', long. 92" 30' we are informed there is a village known as San Benito,
where vessels visit in the dry season, to load hides and India rubber. In lat. 15' 61',
long. 98° 89' is Socontusco bluff, at the back of whioh, in the interior, is a volcano about
6000 feet high, known as Soconusco volcano.

Toaala Bar, in about lat. 16° 10', long. 94° 10', extends out a few miles seaward and
it is advisable to give the shore in thirj locality a bnrth of at least 4 miles Westward
from Tonala there are many detached huts along the shore, and there is a village, in
lat. 16° 18', long. 94° 40', on tho beach near Ban Francisco bar, distant about 80 miles
from Tonala bar. It is statod that in lat. 16° 13', long. 94° 87', about 2 miles east of
San Francisco bar, is a remarkable hill or morro, marked with white strips of sand : it
has high land in its rear and moderately high bluffs to the right and loft, with very low
iuad intervening. In lat. 16° 14', long. 94° 47' there is a village with a conspicuous
church having a white cupola and backed by tho beach. There is another similar
village 9 miles to the westward, in lat. 10° 15', long. 94° 50'.*

TBHvaifTBFBO lAoooivS: — Tlioso lakes extend into tho land about 12 miles and
have an extent east and west of nearly 40 miles. They are, wo believe, useless for the

♦ Captain W. H. Parker, P.M.S.S. Co., 1871.

' " Il' i ' f 1 » ""

VENTOSA 6At.

p>i»|>ose8 of navigation and are mentioned chiefly because at a few miles westward from
them are the thriving towns of Jachitan and Tehuantepec, having populations respectively
of 6000 and 13,000; at the latter town are sixteen churches, and a college was estab*
lishcd in 1850. The apprbximate geographical position of the entrance to the lakes*
known as the Boca Barra, is lat. 16° 18', long. 94° 52'; the latter is too shallow to
admit vessels even of moderate size. On the bar breakers constantly prevail, which
add greatly to the difficulty experienced in running in. Within the entrance aro
numerous shoals of shifting sand.

The soundings immediately outside the Boca Barra are 2^ to 4 fathoms, fine clayey
sand. The current from the lakes through this boca, in November 1850, flowed at
the rate of 7i miles per hour.

From the Boca Barra the coast trends westward about 22 miles to the bay of Yeu'
tosa, and is throughout low and sandy, consisting for the greater part of this distance
of a narrow beach separating the Tehuantepec lagoons from the sea. The soundings
at 1^ to 2 m'las from it are 5^ to 8 fathoms, on clayey sand.

viiNTOSA BAT is situated in about lat. 16° 10^^', long. 05° 16', or about 1^ milea
south-eastward from the town of Tehuantepec. It is not very extensive, being only
2 or 3 miles across ; but it presents seme advantages which the other bays on this
coast do not possess. Although open to southward and eastward, vessels may safely
ride at anchor in it, as the holding-ground is excellent, and the depth of and 7 fathoms
which prevails over almost all the bay, is very convenient. The soundings are gradual
from 8 fathoms at the distance of 100 yards from the beach, to 7 and 8 fathoms at
1000 yards; and the anchorage is on a muddy bottom extending E.N.E. from Morro
point, its south-west extremity. The western shore consists of low sandy land, en-
closing some lagoons, which receive the waters of the river Tehuantepec. This bay
has been proposed as the Pacific termination of a railway across the isthmus of
Tehuantepec from the Gulf of Mexico, the construction of which is reported to present
no difficulties of greater magnitude than an engineer of ordinary ability would be ablo
to overcome.

VciEkt ventosa, the western extreme of the bay, is a high sandy point; it is easily
recognised as it is the last of the high land when coming from northward. Eastward
of Ventosa the land is very low. On Ventosa point (know ^ also as the Mono) is a
tolerably high Htuuo tower, roofed in and with windows near the top; near it is a flag-
staff. Thin tower cannot bo seen to the westward of North ; consequently to vessels
going eastward it comes into view as they pass the point. It should also be borne in
mind that to the westward of the point the water is very deep, while to the eastward
there aro regular soundings.

Mr. Temple says "I aw of opinion that Ventosa bay is not only the best, but Iho
point for a hurb.mr on the Pacific coast of the isthmus. It is a fur hotter nud safer
port than either Valparaiso or Monterey ; ports in constant use the year throughout.
I speak from personal observation, as well as from an oxiiiuiiiatiou of the several
charts, and the similarity of outline has suggested the comparison ; for, although tho
indentation of the coast is possibly a little deeper at each of those places than at
Ventosa, yet they are both open to northward, and as tho general trend of tho coa^^t is

IfTT

VENTOSA BAY.

nearly oorth and south, the prevailing gales blow directly along shore and into these
harbours, creating a heavy swell, and often forcing vessels to slip and go to sea for
safety: whereas, at Yentosa the trend of the eoast is east and west, so that the
f northers" blow directly off-shore, and create no swell whatever. The danger being
from the fudden strain brought npon a cable by the surging of a vessel in a sea-way,
and not from tue steady strain caused by the wind, it follows that "northers" may be
disregarded in an estimate of the safety of this anchorage, as was satisfactorily shown
in the case of the Gold Hunter. But "northers", although frequent during the winter,
and seldom occurring at other seasons, are the only gales that blow in this region.
The southerly winds, characteristic of the summer and autumn, are said to be nothing
more than thunder squalls of short duration, and incapable of raising a sea. Even the
fresh and steady sea-breezes that prevailed during the latter portion of our stay at
Yentoua bay were unaccompanied by any increase of swell."

The following is an extract from the report on Ventosa bay by the engineer, P. E.
Trastonr, Esq. : —

" The western extremity of the bay is formed by the Cerro Morro, an isolated rock
of obloog shape, rounded at the summit, about 160 feet high and 2600 feet in circum-
ference ; and a little more to the south by a pointed rock, separated from the former
by an interval filled in with sand, and forming an angular projection into the sea,
known UuJcr the samo of the point of the Morro.

On the west, the point of the Morro is contiguous, by its base, to an uninterrupted
series of rocky hills, lining the beach and covering an extent of 6000 feet. They cut
perpendicularly the fiank aud rear of an agglomeration of moderate heights, somewhat
rugged and precipitous at their summits, and forming together a thick cluster of grani-
toidal structure disposed in stiata wherein feldspar and amphibole are predominant.
It is the last link of that chain which, detaching itself at the uorlh-wcst from the
Cordillera of Ouxaca, descends by an irregular series of decronsing heights, passes to
the north of Huamolula, turning it p.t the south-east, and tormiuatcs nt the Pacific
ocean, whore it separates the bay of Ventosa from tbo bay of Sulina Cruz.

The snndy strand of Ventosa commences at the foot of tlie lateral portion of the
Cerro Morro, facing the east, and describes from the south to tho north-east an arc
nearly 2J miles in length ; then takes an easterly and almost rectilinear direction, but
drawing a little towards tho south, extends on about G miles farther, where it runs into
tho sea ; after which it turns back again abruptly and inclines towards the north,
tliough trending all the while in an easterly direction.

From tho summit of the Cerro Morro looking towards tho east, tho beach loses itself
in a distant horizon, and uui'ohls to the eye a long bolt of white sand from 200 to BOO
feet wide, terminating inland by a vast plain, scarcely broken upon by the isolated
hillocks of Huazoutlan. This plain, of a sl'ghtly undulating nature, is composed of
sand, clay, and vcgoluble earth. It is covered with trees of niodorato size, which grow
both thinner and Kuiu'.lcr, as one advances towards the east. But in the direction of
the Cordillera which separates the isthmus into two parts, north and south, this alluvial
country is generally fiat, presenting at rare intervals detached heights, easily avoided
in tho planning of a road of any character whatever, oiToring to the view fields of corn,

VENTOSA BAY.

indigo, sngar-eane, palm-trees, nopals, bananas, orange-treos, cocoanat-trecs, and
plants of which the vigoar and variety bear witness to the great fertility of the soil.

The sandy beach of Yentosa itself is cut by lagoons of little depth, having several
outlets into the sea, and by the bed of the Tehuantepec river. At the time of the
periodical overflow, this carrent flows over a low country .before reaching the Pacific
ocean, in which it then empties itcelf, not only by its mouth, but also by means of
those lagoons, its sole outlets during the dry season.

The volume of the water of the river is subject to very great variations in the course
of the year. In the rainy season it reaches 12 feet depth, in years of an extraordinary
character.

The rainy season usually commences in the month of June and finishes in the
beginning of October. The isthmus, in general, ofiers as many different climates as
localities, differing from one another by their situation, the nature of their soil, the
atmospheric phenomena, and the position of their mountains in respect to the cardinal
points.

Advantatjes. — The immense basin of Yentosa presents a safi and commodious har-
bour to vessels of cU sizes. Closed at the west by the heights of the Morro, it is open
at the south and east. This configuration of the bay allows vessels to have ingress
and egress, irrespective of the quarter from which the wind blows. Throughout its
great extent, and on entering it from the sea, no shoals are to be met with ; eveiy*
where a good anohort^o is to be found. The bottom is of compact sand, and a groat
proportion of it is mixed with clay.

The depth is almost regularly graduated ; it presents at from 850 to 8000 feet
distance from the shore, a progressive running from 17 to 58 feet, and averaging, for
the first 1000 feet, 2 feet increase per 100 feet, and about 6 inches per 100 feet for
the following 1000 feet.

The greatest difference that has been observed in the level of the water was 6} feet.

Winds. — Besides the variable winds, which are rather light, and the land and sea
breezes of the morning and evening, ... ; provalent winds, the N.N.E. and S.S.W.
winds, reign during a great portion < P the year on the southern coast of the isthmus.
The first of these two atmospheric currents is not felt at GO miles east of Yentosa,
beyond the Barra do Tonala ; nor at 62 miles west, beyond the mountain of Ghahube,
which bounds on the west the lagoon of Tengulunda.

The N.N.E. wind usually begins to blow about the 16th of October and OMtses In
the fore part of April. In the month of November it blows without interruption, and
nt that time it reaches its maximum. Towards the middle of December it ooases
during intervals of from 10 to 12 days, and then begins anew to blow one or two weeks.
These alterations or interruptions and renewals are reproduced at short and unequal
periods. But the length of tho period of discontinuance goes on gradually increasing
till tho wind only blows one day, ami flu vlly coiisos couiplotely.

T] fndians of Santa IMiiriii del Mur arc fainiliiu' with the iudicntions lumonuciug
tha coming of tho N.N.E. winds. In tho ovouiug ut about sun-down, if the Hunimita
of tho mountains of Guichicovi and San Miguel Cliinialapa (seen from the eoasl) are
concealed from tho view by quantities of slato-coloured vapour, it is indicativo timt tho

oil

•w

BALINA CRUZ.

"northers" will blow tho day following, and will last as many days as the sammits of
those Cordilleras continue to be covered with similar clonds. Yaponr of a correspond-
ing hae, seen at the same hoar, at the horizon of the Pacific ocean, announces that the
R.S.W. wind will blow on the day following.

The S.S.W. wind, which in winter socceeds the North wind, daring one or two days
at most, is the only general wind prevailing daring the months of Jnne, Jaly, and
Angast. After some gales of more or less intensity, which may be compared to the
violence of the North wind, and not exceeding 1^ to 2 hoars' duration, the soatberly
wind is definitely fixed. Towards evening its intensity decreases till the next morning,
when the same phenomenon is renewed. Still, this wind is subject to more interruption
than the North wind, and the intervals of repose last longer. The B.S.W. wind,
passing over the ocean, reaches the coast of the isthmus laden with vapours, which at
certain boars of the day resolve themselves into abundant showers.

In winter and in summer, during the prevalence of the southerly and northerly
winds, the current of the sea is firom east to west; its greatest velocity is about
1| miles per hour. This continual moveiuont in the waters of the Pacific is only dis-
cernible at a distance of about 6000 feet from the shores of Yentosa.

The bay of Yentosa is much safer than the harbonr of Yera Craz. Yiolent tempests
frequently render the latter inaccessible during several days, and even when the North
wind blows, the communication between the town and the vessels in the harbour is
interrupted. During our sojourn at the isthmus of Tehuantepec, we never had to
record one tempest or hurricane on the Pacific ocean.

In December 1860, while we were at Yentosa, the N.N.E. wind blew (off shore)
with extreme violence from the 7th to the 17th of that month, and we remarked, with
surprise, that the sea was not agitated.

To enable one to appreciate the condition of the sea at Yentosa, such as it actually
is, it would perhaps be well here to mention that our soundings were effected by means
of an open boat, 6 feet beam by 18 feet long, which wo had brought from New Orleans,
and which was conveyed across the cordillera ; with this boat we were able to sail oat
8 miles into the open sea."

0ALXNA CRVZ. — This bay lies to the westward of Yentosa point; from this point
the sandy beach of Sulina Cruz trends westerly for about 2 miles and bending to the
southward terminates at Baliun Cruz point, a rocky projection, off which are several
clusters of rocks, above and under water, to the extent of a cable ; outside those rocks
the water is deep, the soundings being 8 and fathoms. In the bay the depth
increases from 4 fathoms near the shore to 8 and 10 fathoms at 8 cables from the
gaudy beach. The village lies on the westorn corner of the bay, and on tho side of a
hill to the right of tlir ' m<v are tho ruins of a largo building of a reddish colour. At
a quarter of n. mile north of the point, at tho foot of the high ground, is a spring. The
anchorage is said to bo superior to that of Yentosa and equally well sheltcitd from
northerly winds.

Tho geographical position of Salina Cruz point, according to tho U.B. surrey of
1871, is lat. 10° »' 54", long. 05" 20'.

It is intended to construct a breakwater which will extend out from the east side of
Saliua Cruz point about 4 cables in an easterly direction.

GUATULCO, &c.

■aliaa Aal ikwiiimb lies to the westward of Salina Cms and is similarly formed,
about 2i miles in extent, with lagoons at the baok of the strand.

The town of Tehuantepec lies to the northward of the bays just described and ia
distant about 11 or 12 miles fi-om port Ventosa in a north-westerly direction.

Xofxo Ayaea. — From Salina Cruz the coast trends in a W.S.W.-ly direction, about
40 miles to the Morro Ayuca, and is but little knovm. This is the southern point of
an open bay, the extent of which is about li miles, and whose shore is low and sandy.
Here vessels may anchor in 6 or 7 fathoms, fine sand, at three-quarters of a mile from
the land, but only when the wind is from northward, for a strong wind from southward
or south-eastward sends in so heavy a sea as greatly to endanger the vessel being
driven on shore. A reef, with a depth of 8 and 4 fathoms almost close to it, surrounds
the Morro for a short distance, and extends from its northern side about H cables;
some of the rooks are, we believe, always visible. The Morro is a bold cliffy point,
and its position, according to Sir E. Belcher, R.N., is lat. 15° 51' 66", long.
95° 48' 66".

•VATU&oo. — From the Morro Ayuca the coast continues to trend in a similar direc-
tion as that just mentioned, about 25 miles to the little harbour of Guatulco, which
according to Sir E. Belcher, B.N., is in lat. 16° 44' 24", long. 96° 8'. It is formed
by a rooky point which encloses on its. west side a bay having a width not exceeding a
third of a mile, and which extends nearly half a mile to the north-westward. The
soundings are 9 to 4 fathoms, gradually decreasing to the beach at its head ; a flat of
1^ to 2i fathoms water extends from its north-eastern side nearly a cable, so that
the deepest water is in the middle or over to the south side of the bay. A reef, having
some rooks upon it above water, extends out in an easterly direction from the rocky
point about 1^ cables; and, outside this a short distance, but separated from
it by a narrow channel of 10 fathoms, are some rocky islets, having sunken rocks about
them.

Port Guatulco affords shelter from all winds except those from south-eastward, which
blow directly in ; hence it is a convenient anchorage in the summer months.

Mr. Masters says of Guatulco and the coast eastward of it* : — " On entering the gulf
of Tehuantepec, near the shore, we found the current setting to the W.S.W. 1^ miles
per hour. As the wind was easterly and light, we made a stretch to the southward,
and in lat. 16°, long. 05" 81)', I had a boat lowered and tried the current, and found it
setting S.S.E., 1 mile per hour; there had been a fresh breeze from the eastward the
day previously. The followiug afternoon wo wore close in-shorc, and found, as we
approached the land, that the current had gradually altered, and was setting to the
W.S.W. We came to an anchor the uamo eveniug in the bay of Bamba, which is to
the south-west of Morro do Zipegua, tho current sottiug to the W.S.W. nearly 2 miles
per hour. After a fresh S.W. or southerly sea breeze, the current close in-shore has
ran to the S.E., but this is not general, and does not last a long time.

• Navtical Maga»ine 1880. — Tho positions of Mr. Masters are about 7 miles northward and
9 miles westward of those by Sir E. lielcher. Tho whole of this ooast is very imperfectly known,
and many of the plioes moutirned by Mr. Maalers cannot be reoogiiiMed on existing charts.

QUATULCO, &e.

11
I il

Whilst we were getting to the eastward in the golf of Tehnantepeo, wo experienced
a slight "norther"; as wo stretched off-shore it haaled ir^'^ the N.E.; a disagreeable
short sea arose, the wind blowing in gnsts, and the weather hazy.

Santa Cmz, port of Gaatulco, in lat. 15° 61', long. 96° 17', is very difficalt to make.
It is situated in a small bay, aboot half a mile wide at its entrance, and mns in north-
ward upwards of H miles. At the bottom of the bay is a sandy beach, and on its
eastern side ai*e two hats which cannot be seen nnless close in-sfaore. At three-
quarters of a mile E.S.E. from the eastern point of the bay is the Piedro Blanea, a
reef of rocks estcuding east and west about a quarter of a mile. The western part of
the reef is about 40 feet high, and for about one-third of its length it is of the same
elevation, but the remaining two-thirds to the eastward is low, and in places level with
the water. When abreast it, and off shore a few miles, it appears to be a part of the
coast. Although it is called Piedra Blanea, it is a dark irregularly-shaped reef of
rocks.

Tho anchorage in Santa Cruz is said to be good. It is well sheltered from all winds
except between East and S.E. by S. ; but, as the strongedt winds blow from north-
ward, except in the rainy season, it may be considered a very safe port. It is the
only place that can be considered a harbour, eastward of Aoapulco ; and even in the
rainy season, I was informed, a vessel might lie there in perfect security. The depth
of water in tho bay is from 7 to 9 fathoms, with a clear bottom.

About S miles E.N.E. from Santa Cruz, is the island Tangolatangola, which is
separated from the main by a channel a quarter of a mile wide. This makes from the
westward as a part of the main land ; the outer part of it is quite bluff, or rather a
cliff of a brownish stone, the strata of which are horizontal, and have tho same geo-
logical appearance as the land on the main nearest it towards the N.E., and of the
same height, namely, about 1 50 feet. Within the island and round the western side,
is the entrance of the bay of Tangolatangola ; it runs in about N.E., 2 miles. At the
bottom of tho bay is a line sandy beach. The anchorage is said to be very good in it,
but not equal to Santa Cruz. Its entrance is nearly a mile across, and continues
nearly the same to tho bottom.

Westward, half n mile from tho head which forms the western part of the bay or
harbour of Santa Cruz, is a bluff point or bead, under which is a good leading-mark
for knowing the harboar. There is a cave in oao of the rooks, level with the water,
and close in-shore, aitd every swell that hoavos in throws a quantity of water into it,
and as the cave has a small bporture in tho upper part of it, tho water dies up resem-
bling the spout of a largo whale. It hau often been taken for one by strangers, and
deceived us by its appearance. In tho night time, or foggy weather, when it is oalm,
or blowing a light breeze, tho sound can be hoard at some distance, like a whale
blowing. This place is called tho Bufadero.

When about 5 miles off tho shore from tho Bufadero, the western extreme point of
land has a broken rocky appearance, and is not so high as the land adjoining. When
about 2 longnos off-shore from the Buftidoro, another capo, further westward, can be
seen. Its extreme point is rather low, but rises gradually inland to a moderate
elevation.

OUATULOO, &o.

Westward of Santa Craz are two blaff heads, which, when abreast of, might be taken
for islands. The first is about 8 miles from the port; the other is 2 miles further
westward, and has a white sandy beach on its western side. On the eastern side of
the eastern head there is also a small sandy beach, from which to the Bufadero the
coast is rocky. The land which crowns this part of the coast is covered with stunted
trees and brushwood. About 4 or 6 leagues N. 8° 30' W. is the Cerro Zadan, having
a bell-shaped top, and a ridge on the north-east side connecting it with the higher
range of the Cordilleras. The Cerro Zadan is elevated above the sea rather more than
6000 feet. The mountains farther inland, a few leagues, cannot be much short of
10,000 feet high, as they can be seen over the Cerro Zadan.

The port of Guatulco is so bad to make, that vessels have been upwards of -a t6rt-
nigbt in searching for it ; and it was by the greatest chance possible that we had not
passed it, although wo were not 1^ miles from the ehore. The two huts, which were
on the beach, can scarcely be distinguished from the trees near which they aie built.

From Morro de Ystapa the coast runs about E.N.E. to Fuuta do Zipegua, in lat.
16° 1', long. 95° 28' 80". Between these points are several bluff headlands, which dp
not project far out from the general line of the coast, and afford no shelter. Punta de
Zipegua forms the eastern part of wb!<kt is called the bay of Bamba, and is a very
remarkable headland. From the westward it shows itself with a bold dark cliff to the
sea, about 400 feet high. It projects out from the western line of coast nearly a mile,
making like a double head. A short distance within the outer bluff is a peaked hill,
with the appearance of a light-coloured sandstone, and quite bare of vegetation.
Farther inland, between 1 and 2 miles, the ground rises higher, in small hummocks,
a few of which are quite bare, and others have a small quantity of stunted trees and
bushes scattered over them.

The head, forming the western side of the bay of Bamba, is not so high, nor does
it rise so suddenly from the sea as Punta de Zipegua. It is also covered with bushes.
The eastern side of Punta de Zipegua is covered with bushes and trees, the sand only
showing through the soil in a very few places. When abreast of it, and off the shore
from 2 to 8 miles, the current was running to windward W.S.W., from 2^ to 8 miles
an hour. About N.E. from Punta de Zipegua, 4 or 5 miles, is a high reef of rocks
called Piedra de Zipegua, or Machaguista, in the chart island of Eschevan. Its
greatest elevation is from 60 to 70 feet ; and its length is about a third of a mile in an
E.S.E. and W.N.W. direction, xt, is said that there are no dangers near it but what
can be seen. Between it and the main, from which it is about 4 miles distant, in a
N.W. direction, is good anchorage ; the best anchorage is close to the reef. The pearl
oysters ire plentiful near this reef; they are caught by the divers in the rainy season.
The general line of coast, from Punta de Zipegua towards Tehuantepec, runs about
N.E. by N. easterly.

As I had now passed northward and eastward of the position where, by my instruc-
tions, I was led to believe our cargo was, we hauled to the wind, with a fresh breeze
from the southward, and made a tack or two to fetch the bay of Bamba. At 4h. p.m.
we came to anchor abreast the western part of the beach, in 9 fathoms, sandy bottom,
off-shore 1^ miles. As soon as we anchored, I wont on shore to ascertain where the

mm\

GUATtJLCO, &c.

wood was cat for oar cargo, and, with diffloalty, got to speak with an Indian, who was
greatly alarmed at seeing such a large canoe (as he called the brig), and thought we
were come to plnnder the coast.

Shortly after landing, the proprietor came down on horseback, and stated that he
believed there was some brazil wood at a place called Bosario, (in my instructions it
was called St. Francis de Guatnlco), and that Bosario was several leagaes nearer
Gnatnlco. He said that onrs was the only vessel larger than a canoe, that had been
on this part of the coast for a great number of years. No vessel had ever loaded
hereaboats. The beach, or Playa de Bamba, is about 6 miles long, and must I '^ry
bad to land on, with a fresh sea breeze. There was more eurf on it when we ied
than was quite agreeable ; and the boat was half-filled, althiugh the wind was blowing
along the coast. We remamed at anchor nntil the momiug, and got under way with
the land breeze, keeping at about half a mife from the shore, excepting when abreast
of the headlands, lo the evening we came again to an anchor, in 9 fothoms, sandy
bottom, opposite a srmll sandy beach, 1^ miles from the shore; having seen nothing
during the day like wood piled up, or anything in the shape of a signal. In the
morning we again got under way, and stood to the westward; and at lOh. a.m. were
off the port of Guatnlco. I sent the boat on shore to enquire for the place where our
«argo was lying; an Indian got into the boat, from whom I learned that we had passed
it, and, as he knew the place, I kept him on board, and made all sail, with the wind
8.W., for the place, and at 6h. p.m. came to an anchor in the bay of Bosario.

The town of Guatnlco is 8 leagaes from the port, and this is the only port in the
state of Onjaca, where goods can be imported. Its commerce can be easily imagined
when the person who is administrator of the customs, is also captain of the port, &c, ;
indeed he is the only individual, both in the marine and custom-house departments,
with the exception of an old man, who lives at the port, and sends him information
when there is any arrival. Mexican vessels can load on the coast by having an order
from any custom-house in the Bepublic where they may have touched at ; but foreign
vessels are compelled to touch at Santa Cruz to pass the custom-house visit.

From the island Tangolatangola to the bay of Bosario there are several small head-
lands, which do not project much beyond the general line of coast, with the exception
of Morro de las Salinas de Bosario. Most of them have a steep eliff facing the sea, with
fine sandy beaches between them, at the back of which are scattered a few small trees
and bushes ; the land rising in very irregular-shaped hills towards the Cordilleras.
Abreast of the beaches, between the beads, I found the anchorage quite clear ; and
when in 9 to 12 fathoms water, the distance off-shore is about a mile, with sandy
bottom.

The west side of the bay of Bosario is formed by the Morro de las Salinas de Bosario,
and is in lat. 16° 60' 25", long. 0G° 2'. It projects about a milo beyond the line of
coast. On its western side is a beach 4 or 6 miles in length to the next head. When
abreast of Morro de las Hulinas, it appears like an island with two large rocks abreast
its eastern and western part, but the whole is connected with the main. What
appears to be the eastern rock, is a broken rocky head, about IGO feet high. The
western is about half that elevation. Both these heads terminate with a broken cliff;

OUATULCO, 4o.

ihe tops of them are bare and of a greyish colonr, bat the lower part is qnite black,
caused by the sea breaking against them. Between these heads is a small sandy bay,
at the foot of the Mor/o, which rises gradually from the beach to the top of the hill ;
this is abont 180 to 200 feet high, and presents a verry barren appearance, having bat
a few straggling bashes on it. The beach of Bosario is 10 miles long, from Morro de
las Salinas to Morro de la Lagnna Grande which is its eastern extremity. At about
half the distance between the Morros, is a rock on the beach, about 40 feet high, and
nearly the same diameter at spring tides. The water flows round it.

During the time of our lying in the bay of Bosario, which was from the 12th of
February to the 1st of April, we had three smart " northers," which came on at full
and change of the moon. At this time the surf runs very heavy on the beach. Oar
boat was capsized several times while we lay here, io landing and coming off. At times
the sea broke very heavily in all parts of the bay, that is, on the beach. I was caught
on shore, a few days alter arriving here, during the first "norther," which came on
Boddenly, with a parching hot wind. A cross confased sea hove in from the south and
north-east. The wind must have blown strongly out in the gulf, from the t>ttme direc-
tion; and, though it blew heavily for three days, with the wind at times to the westward
of North, the sea kept up until some time after the " norther " had censed blowing.
This is not generally the case, for a strong "norther" (and particularly if it veers
round to N.N.W.,) beats the sea down ; at which time the landing is attended with little
or no risk, which was the case when we had the last two " northers ". I was informed
(and, judging from appearances, I think correctly,) that very often when the wind is
North or N.N.W., close in-shore, it is N.E. in the offing, which makes it impossible to
land on the coast. I remarked whilst lying here, at the full and change of the moon,
and when no " norther " was blowing, that, although the surf ran so high that no boat
could land, the vessel lay without any motion. We were moored at less than 800 fa-
thoms from the shore. The surf appeared not to be caused by a swell rolling in and
agitating the sea at the surface, but to rise from below, and without any apparent cause,
as we had light winds and fine weather the most of the time we lay here. On another
occasion, I was caught on shore with a boat's crew for three days. In attempting to
get off to the ship, the boat was capsized and stove. It was then, and had been for a
week previous, nearly a calm. The heavy ground-swell invariably hove in from the
S.S.W. We fortunately escaped from this beach without losing any of our people,
which was more than I expected, having had three laid up at different times, who were
saved from being drowned by a mere chance.

In addition to what has been said about this part of the coast, it can be known by
the low land at the back of the beach of Bosario, which runs in from 1 to 2^^ leagues
before there is much rise in it, and is thickly covered with trees. Prom North to N.W.
of Morro de las Salinas, nearly 2 leagues from shore, the rising ground is formed by a
number of small barren hillocks. From our anchorage, at the place where we loaded,
the following bearings were taken, lying in 9^ fathoms, sandy bottom. There are two
large patches of a whitish appearance, the farthest range of the Cordilleras ; the eastern
is the lowest, and bore N. 69^° W. The appearance cannot be seen, unless from a
little to westward of Morro de las Salinas. This has every appearance of being a

QUATULCO, Ac.

■;

^i^

waterfall, and rises from the other patch in a N.W. direetion, at about an angle of 46°.
It issues from a small valley in the Cerro del Ghonga. The highest point of this range
has but a small elevation above it, and is covered with trees. The waterfall inclines
towards the south, and can be seen for several hundred feet descending, before it is lost
sight of amidst the forest below. Cerro de Zadan bore N. 89° W. ; the extreme bluff
of Morro de las Salinas, S. 86° W., 8^ miles ; the eastern point well within the bear-
ings, and Panta de la Lagnna Grande, N. 71° E., 6 to 7 miles ; the rock on the beach,
mentioned as being 40 feet high, N. 65° E. ; and the galena or shed, nnder which the
cargo was piled, N. 26° W., half a mile.

At the western part of the bay are four palm trees, close to the beach. The distance
from the Morro de las Salinas is about half a mile, and between these trees and the
Morro is a large cluster of palms. Between these two clusters is, at all times, the best
place to land, as a boat can beach here with comparative safety, when, at every other
part of the bay the sea runs very heavy. At the neaps we found the place quite smooth,
with the exception of a sea heaving in about every 10 or 15 minutes ; but it causes no
risk to a boat, provided she is kept end on.

At the south-western part of the beach, and where a small pathway leads to cross the
Morro de las Salinas, close to the sea side, in the cliff of a rook is a small spring of
excellent water. We always found it clear and cool, even at noon ; my consignee said
we could fill the ship's stock of water from it with dispatch, but I soon found out that
he knew nothing about it. The quantity that could be filled in a day did not exceed
80 gallons ; and, after having landed all our water-casks, we had to te-ship them,
through a great deal of surf, and land them at the galena, abreast of the ship. We
filled our Virater at a well about a mile from the beach, but the supply was very limited,
it being the only well that had water in it up to the day of our sailing. We did not
complete our stock.

Near the Morro de la Lagnna is a large lake, from which the headland takes its
name. A few miles farther eastward is the Morro de Santiago de Ystapa (in the chart
it is called Morro de Aynta), near which is the entrance of the small river Ayuta, the
Btream that runs by Haamiluin and Ystapa. There is a bar across the entrance. The
canoes land on the beach in preference to going over it, as it is attended with danger."

The following remarks are by Captain Parker, P.M.S.S. Co., 1871 : — " Port
Guatulco, in lat. 15° 45', long. 96° 4', is recognized by the Bufadero. All this coast,
from Washington bluff to port Sacrificios can be approached within two miles.

The current in the dry season (winter) is generally to the S.E. and East along the
land ; during the summer months (May to November) with southerly weather it is
supposed to run to the N.W. and west. As you are constantly in the influence of the
tides yon will find it very variable at all seasons.

You will now enter the gulf of Tehuantepec, and if in the summer or rainy season,
a course should be shaped for the coast of Guatemala if bound for San Jose ; or for
capo Blanco, if to Panama via Panta Arenas.

If bound to Panama direct from Tartar shoal, shape a course about E. by S. } S. for
Montuosa island ; in the months of May, June, July, August and September by doing
so you avoid the heavy rains and squalls found closer in-shore.

; J ;

J 1.

PORTS SA.CR1FICI03 AND ANGELES.

Yoa will find it necessary to keep more to the sonthward, say E.S.E. after the first
day, as from that time nntil passing cape Blanco a strongN.W. or W.N.W. carrent will
be experienced.

In the winter season (from October to April) it is advisable to haul np round port
Sacrificios towards the head of the gulf of Tehaan tepee ; the object being to keep under
the lee of the land, in smooth water, in case it blows from the northward.

I would here remark that, a gray mist hanging over the mountains and a red sunset,
— the red extending toward the zenith, — are sure indications of a norther ; and if on
entering the gulf, either from the eastward or westward, you meet with a north-westerly
swell, a norther will surely follow. Sometimes double-headed clouds are seen to the
northward, with clouds or mist hanging over the tops of the mountains ; at others it
will blow a fresh gale without a cloud in the sky. The barometer does not indicate
them, nor does the temperature of the water. These winds commence from the N.E.
or N.N.E., veer round to the northward, and as you advance into the gulf veer to the
N.W., and finally die out at West as you approach the coast of Guatemala.

From Sacrificios to Ventosa you can follow the land at a distance of a mile. The
whole coast between these points ie put on the chart about four miles too Jar to tho
westward.

Estrete island lies in lat. 16° 58', long. 95° 29' ; it is a large white rock. In about
lat. 16° 59', long. 96° 20', is a remarkable sand down, a high bluff, visible a long
way. It is about 16 miles from point Ventosa, and tho first after passing Sacrificios,
though there are one or two between it and Salina Cruz. About half a mile off the
first bluff to the N.E. of Estrete island, and between it an-' *he sand down there is a
rock awash, the only known outlying danger."

■aeilfloioa is a little port situated about 10 miles south-westward from Guatulco.
In front of it is an islet, about a quarter of a mile in extent, which shelters the bay
from easterly winds ; this islet is surrounded by ro'sks, and the shore of the bay is also
lined with rocks to a considerable distance. The depth of the anchorage is about 4 fa-
thoms on sand. The approximate geographical position of the bay, according to
Capt. Parker, P.M.S.S. Co., 1871, is lat. 15° 48', long. 96° 12'.

It is high water on the days of full and change of the moon at Sb. 16m. f.h. ; the
rise of tide is about 6 feet.

A rock, on which the U.S.S. Tuscarora touched three times when attempting to get an
anchorage off the entrance of Sacrificios bay, is stated to be about 1^ cables S.S.E. i E.
from the south-west point of Sacrificios island. The rock has 11 feet water on it at
low tide.

Port Sacrificios is difficult to recognise. It is recommended therefore always to take
your departure from White rock, an excellent mark, lying a mile off shore about
IQi; miles to the westward of the port. White rock, according to Capt. Parker,
P.M.S.S. Co., is in lat. 15° 40', long. 96° 80'.

Port Ancciu is a small harbour suitable only for schooners, &c., lying about 16
miles westward of port Sacrificios and li miles eastward of the White rock mentioned
in the previous paragraph. It is a port of entry for the city of O^jaca, and has been
open to foreign commerce since February 1868. The landing here is said to be bad,

MALDONADO POINT.

behmd soma rocks, and the sarf is very violent. We have no instrnotionB of recent
date relating to it.

Tb« COAST westward of port Angeles, as far as Aeapnlco, a distance of about 200
miles, is very imperfectly known ; it shonld, therefore, have a wide berth given to it.

It is stated that in lat. 15° 50', long. 97° 8' there is a high bluff with hats on it
among the trees, and 8 or 4 miles eastward of this, a river, probably the Rio Sioaleta,
6 miles eastward of which is another river, the Rio Colotepeo. In lat. 15° 55',
long. 97° 21' are two white rocks, known as the Aleatrazes ; to the westward of these
are a few hats. Aboat 11 miles westward of the Aleatrazes is a large high blnff,
6 miles wide, known as Monro Hermoso, the geographical position of which is stated to
be lat. 15° 68', long, 97° 82' ; 7 miles farther westward a smaller blnff (Little Motro)
will be observed, close to the eastward of which is a reef and at the back of it a large
lagoon. In lat. 16° 59', ' jng. 97° 48' is a river known as the Rio Verde ; in rainy
weather the water in the neighbourhood of this river is frequently much discoloured.
There are a few huts midway between the Littli Morro and the Rio Verde.*

anodoiutdo votnt and adjaoant Bboaia. — Maldonado or Escondido point, the western
extremity (El Reeodo) of which is in lat. 16° 18' 40", long. 98° 82' (U.S. Government
Survey, 1878) is a tolerably well defined point, but cannot be recognised from the west-
ward except when close in-shore, and when coming from eastward it disappears after
passing the bearing of N.N.W. The shore trends from the point S.E. by E. } E. on
one side and N.W. on the other. Close under and westward of the point is a small
bight in which is a good boat landing, one mile from which fresh-water is found in
abundance.

The coast to the westward of Maldonado has a sandy beach, and for a distance of
six miles is composed of a series of sand cliffs, 200 to 800 feet high, divided by ravines,
which render them good landmarks. The coast to the eastward is rocky for a distance
of 2 miles, with the exception of two small spots, each of which has a sandy beach.
Within a distance of one siile from the point are several sand cliffs, about 260 feet
high, which are prominent and show white to the southward. The entire country in
the vicinity of the poiut is 800 to 400 feet high and thickly wooded. Gnacanl peak, on
the eastern side of the point and close to the sea, is 400 feet in height ; the Bee Hive,
8 miles north-west of the point and nearly a mile inland, is of similar elevation.

As the high land and land near the coast are frequently obscured by smoke at the
close of the dry season, navigators are apt to be deceived as to their distance from the
coast. Hence it is considered prudent at this time of the year to keep the liead going
and not pass inside the 20-fathom line.

About 2 miles south-westward of Maldonado point is a cluster of dangerous rocky
patches known as the Tartar shoalsf. They have recently (1878) been examined by

• Captain W. H. Parker, P.M.S.3. Co., 1871.

t Captain Miguel Gurcier, coast pilot at Aeapnleo, statea, that from 2 to 8 miles off CnaoanI poiut
(about 12 miles S.E. of the river Dnlce and the first break in the sandy head to the eastward) there
is deep water and anchorage in 8 to 10 fathoms ; thence a shoal extends upwards of 4 miles seaward,
breaking in the rainy season with 8.W. gales, and having as little as 10 feet water on it,— and this
ioformation has been eorroborated Ly the evidence of the captains of several coasting •chooners.

Faa page 92

\ 1

LOMDOir. Jamel Imra-V ^ Son

ACAPULCO.

9i»

the U.S. sarreyare (see plan on Admiralty chart No. 587, 1879) and the following in-
formation is derived from their report . —

The shoals lying off Maldouado (Escondido) point, regarding 20 fathoms as the ont-
side limit of danger, '-rd inoloded between the bearings from the point of S.S.E. ^ E.
4 mile?, and W. J N. 5 miles. Within these limits the most dangerous rocky patches
may thus be described : — A 8-iathom patch, extending E. by S. and W. by N. three-
quarters of a mile, lies S.W. by S. 2 miles from the point, and near its western
extremity are two rocks which have respectively 7i »eet and 13i feet water over them.
A 8-fathom patch less than half a mile in extent, with a rocky head, on which there is
only 16 feet water, lies S.W. by W. i W., 2 miles from the point. These two patches
lie within a 6-fathom curve, with 9 fathoms all round. At about 1^ miles W.N.W. i W.
from the point and about the same distance from the shore abreast is a shoal with 2 to
8 fathoms water over ii and about half a mile in extent. On the southern extremity of
this shoal lies the wreck of the steamer City of San Francisco.

For a distance of about 8 miles westward of the 5-fathom line the depths are irregular,
varying from 6 to 11 fathoms, but beyond that distance the soundings increase gradually
in a W. by S. diireetion to 40 fathoms, and in a southerly direction to 100 fathoms.

Note. — The actual dangers to navigation are situated between the parallels of 16° 17'
and 16° 21' and the meridians of 98° 85' and 98° 40', but to ensure safety the caution
not to pass inside the 20-&thom line should be carefully observed when passing these
i^hoals.

Curfent. — The current sets in a sonth-easterly direction, varying between E. by S.
asd StS.E., with a velocity varying from a half to 2 knots an hour ; strongr.bL on tii.<)
ebb, E.S.E. Clv^vo into the point the flood sets to the northward and westward. It is
said that during the wet season the current sets W. by N.

About 6 miles S.W. of Maldonado point very heavy tide-rips were observed by the
surveyors ; the depih in their locality was 18 fathoms.

Dale* iuv«v lies about 12 miles north-west of Maldonado point. A sunken rock is
inserted iu some ch&rts opposite the river Dulce, on the authority of the ship Clio, at
about 8 milet; from the shore, in about lat. 16° 28', long. 98° 44' ; the depth around it
is stated to be 6 fathoms.

AOAPTyz.oo. — The port of Acapuico consists of a bay about 1^ miles deep and
having an extent from East to West of about 8 miles, in which are soundings of 20 to
10 and 7 iuthoms. It is considered to be one of the finest harbours on the west coast
of Mexico ; and, for its size, one of t^A most complete in the world. It afi'ords
sheltered and land-looked anchorage in 16 fathoms water, over an extent of about
one mile square. The bottom is sandy at its surface, but clayey beneath, and holds
well.

All round the harbour, on every side are high mountains, which, on the north and
east sides, range itom 2000 to 2700 feet in height, and on the west side from 800 to

II.M.S. Tartar, when Blandioff aleug thia part of the ooaat on the 4th March, 1863, ground'ol on a
sboal Bouth-oRBt of the river Duloe, in lat. 10° 11', long. US" 82'; the veaRel's draught was 18 feet,
but the least water obtained was 0| fuitiouiH.

ACAPULCO.

600 feet. They afford considerable shelter to the harboar, and may be seen at a great
distance at sea.

Eastward of the port, and just outside the entrance, is a little bay named port
Marques, having an extent of about 1^ miles in au easterly direction. The soundings
in it are 20 to 6 fathoms, mud, sand and rook, and there is good shelter from all but
\tresterly winds, which blow directly in. Its southern point, named Diamante, has a
reef extending from it a short distance ; there is also a small islet or rock on the north
side of the bay at about a cable from the shore, and at nearly the head oi the bay is a
sunken rock ;^these can be easily avoided. Vessels seldom enter port Mar(|nes, the
bay of Acapulco possessing superior advantages.

Westward of the port and also immediately outside the entrance, is an island named
Boqneta or Qrifo, which extends nearly East and West one mile and is of very irregular
shape, but is about a third of a mile across in its broadest part, the middle. Its
eastern and western extremities have each a reef extending seaward nearly 1^ cables,
parts of which are above water ; in other respects the island is clear of any known
suuken danger beyond a moderate oiSng. At a quarter of a mile from the island, there
is a small islet or rook, 60 feet high, named Morro, outside of which is a depth of 20'fa-
thoms. The passage between Boqueta island and the shore is about two cables wide,
in its narrowest part, and has >i depth of 16 to 20 fathoms ; it is known as the Boca
Chica, while the channel between tho east and west points of the harbour is termed the
Bocp Qrando.

At a third of a mile almost due east from the Morro islet, is a rock only 4 feet above
the water, and having a depth slose to it of 10 and 12 fathoms. Its position is
a dangerous one to vessels making Acapulco from westward, and rounding Grifo islabd
rathor closely.

Tho town of Acapulco is on the west side of the port, and has long been in a state of
decline, owing to the bad custom-house regulations, which cripple the energies of its
merchants, Its market is but indifferently sapplied; but fowls, and excellent fruit and
vegetables, are readily obtained. Its position, according to the Admiralty chart No.
1944, is lat. 10° 60' 60", long. 99° 62' 15".

In tho north part of tho bay are somo rocks named San Lorenzo, situated at a shoi*t
distance from the shore, between which is no safe passage. About half a mile eastward
of these is uuother rocky islet, called Obispo, of a white colour, and about 148 foot
high. Tho depth on the seaward sido of theso rocks is 7 to 10 fathoms. <•>

Somo mountains north-westward of Acapulco bay, named the Paps of Coynca, are
considered to be a good mark by wliich tho situation of the bay may be known. The
following remarks uro by Captain G. H. Richards, U.N., of H. M.S. Hecate 1808 : —

" Tho port of Acapulco is 90 miles in an E. by S. i S. direction from Mangrove
bluff, subsequently mentioned. In approaching it from westward tho Paps of Coyuca
are :; good guide ; they are two distinct conical summits, and tho mountain is about

• A rock, noarly Bwtish at low tide, wasdiacovcrod Bome years uro in tlie nortliorn part of Aoapuloo
bay hy tlie Frniich «)iip Serteute Rtriking upon it. Tho depth over it was IS foot (?) and the position
assigned to it was, 1000 niotiep or 101)8 yards N. 70" E., true, from fort Son Diego, which places it
nearly on a supposed line from tht> fort to Obispi- islot.

}■

AOAPULCO.

4000 feet h!gb ; it lies N.W. by N. nearly 80'' miles from Aoapnico, and 20 from tho
coast. Tbe land westward of Acapulco is high. At the distance of 10 or 12 miles
from the coast two distinct ranges are seen ; the nearer one about 2500 feet high ; and
the TP'jte distant one, of which the paps form a portion, over 4000 feet. When the Paps
of Coyuca bear N. by E. ^ E., a red stripe, or land-slip will be seen on the coast right
nnder them. A square table-topped mountain rises just westward of Acapulco, to be-
tween 2000 and 8000 feet. When within 8 or 10 miles of the port, Boqueta island is
seen, which has a high, yellow, cliffy coast ; as also the point of the main land northward,
forming the entrance of the Boca Ghica.

Diamante point, which appears as the eastern extreme of the land, shows as ^u
island at the distance of 7 or 8 miles ; the head of port Marques, of which it forms the
south point of entrance, being low. Making Ac)>,pulco, from the sonth-wer;!; or south-
ward, the entrance is remarkable, from the yellowish cliffs of Diamance point, and
lloqueta island which may be seen at a considerable distance. The Paps of Coyuca
are also seen, but the eastern peak appears cut off. There is also a white wooden
tower on the summit of Boqueta island, which is used for a lighthouse and seen 6 or
7 miles off. The light is only exhibited when the Pacific mail steam company's vessels
are expected."'

8ir Edward Belcher, B.N., says "I cannot persuade myself that the Paps of Coyuca
are nseful for making the harbonr, although in the offing they may be if not obscured.
Acapulco may be approached from southward or westward, by keeping the western cono
open of the land, which will lead up to the Boca Cbica entrance, or until Acapulco port
is so close under the lee, that no Airther marks are necessary. There is not any hidden
danger in the entrance to Acapulco. Keep a moderate distance from either shore ;
6 fathoms will be found alongside all the rocks, and 25 to 80 in mid-channel. Bound
point Qrifo (the western point of the harbour) sharply, rather than stand over to San
Lorenzo, as the wind, generally westerly, heads on that shore. If working, taok when
the rocks on the south point of Town bay show in the gap.

The two best berths are off the rocks alluded to ; that outside is preferable, but in
either case let the outer rock bear W.S.W. or W.N.W., so that a hawser fast to the
rock may keep your broadside to land or sea breezes, and prevent a foul anchor.

It would naturally be inferred that, as tho harbour is surrounded on every side by
high mountains, tho breeze would scarcely be felt and the heat be intolerable. This
is confined to the town limits ; at our^ observatory, and at the port, San Carlos, we
enjoyed a constant breeze.

In all harbours there may bo objectionable berths, but in that of Acapulco, if care be
taken to keep in the line of what I have designated the 'West Gap,' or neck of the
peninsula, open of the south point of the town bay, both laud and sea breezes will be
felt in their full strength, and free from causes which would heat thorn before entering
the port, the nock being but a few feet above tho soa-Iovel.

Water of good quality was found at several points between the fort and Obispo rook ;
but the two best streams are between the fort aud San Lorenzo."

The following remarks are by Capt. W. H. Parker, P.M.S.B Co. (1871) :—

•* Making Acapulco from westward, toko your departure from point Tejupan and

ACAPULCO.

White Hock point, and steer for Morro Petatlan^ Pass this point at a distance of 2
miles, and point Teqnepa one mile. Bun along the beach 1| miles off, and verify your
position by taking the time when the bluff, 29 miles from the buoy at Acapulco, is
abeam, and again by the ridge and peak 18 miles from the buoy. The light if shown
will make a little on the port bow. Pass one-third of a mile from Grifo island, and
with the starboard helm follow round to the buoy, keeping close to Grifo point.

The only outlying danger is the rock lying N.E. by E. i E., three-eighths of a mile
from the outer edge of Grifo inland, in a line with point Guitarron. If very dark steer
about E.N.E. (heading about for point Bruja) until point Grifo is abeam — then haul
up sharp for this point and you will clear the rock whether you see it or not. Yoa
will be pretty snr j, however, to see the breakers on it.

If there is no light on the buoy, steer midway between the two gaps in the land to
the right of the Company's coal-sheds and you will find it.

If running for this port from eastward, take a departure from the White rock
off port Angeles and shape a course to pass just outside of Tartar shoal ; verify your
position, and ascertain the vessel's speed by noting time of passing Morro Hermoso.
Having passed the shoal, haul np about W. by N. J N. for Potrero point. The current
frequently sets strongly to the eastward, and yon may be set in with the land about,
the river — 21 miles from the buoy — in this ease haul out, and remember that the trend
of the coast thence to Petrero point is about N.W. by W. i W. When the light bears
N.W. by W. i W. run for it, and you will clear Potrero point.

Pass one-third of a mile from Potrero, haul np and pass close to Bng'a point, and
then run across and pass close to Grifo point, and so to the buoy.

These points are readily distinguished in the darkest nights. There is no difficulty
in leaving this harbour at any time."

M. de Petit-Thouars of the French surveying vessel Venus, 1838, says "The
currents are not felt in the road, but, outside it they run to the S.E. with a strength
varying from a half to 2 miles. This current is more rapid during the ebb.

In the fine season, that is to say from December to May, the land and sea breezes
are regular enough. They are feeble during the night, coming from N. to N.E. and
E. ; and from S.W. to W.S. W. and to N.W. in the day. In the other months of the
year this coast is dangerous, and but little frequented.

The usual anchorage is to the south of the fort, and before the town, in 11 to 18 fa-
thoms, muddy bottom ; it is perfectly safe. In case of uocossity, anchorage can also
be obtained in the Boca Grande."

It is high water at Aoapulco on the days of full and change of the moon at 8h. Cm. ;
the rise of tide is about 1 ^ feet. Wo believe that a small light is shown near the
south-east end of Grifo island, when the steamers of the Pacific Mail Company ate
expected.

Tb« OOABT. — From Acapulco bay the coast trends about 80 miles in a W. by N. i N.

lirection to point Tequepa, on the eastern side of which is the river Coyuquilla. We

have ud information of this part of the const until wo got to Morro Potatlan, 20 miles

farther to the north-westward, off which are some rocks named the Wliite Friars from

SIHUATANEJO.

tlieir finpposed resemblance to a cross. They have been described by Lord Anson, in
iho following manner :—

<'The hill of Petatlan may be at first mistaken for an island, although it is in reality
ft peninsula, joined to the continent by a low and narrow isthmus, covered with shrubs
and small trees. The bay of Sihuatanejo extends from this hill a great distanoe to the
westward, and has, at its entrance, just off the hill of Petatlan, an assemblage of rocks,
white with the dung of boobies and other tropical birds. Four of these rocks are high
and large, and, together with several smaller ones, are, by the aid of a little imagina-
tion, made to resemble the form of a cross, and hence are called the White Friars."

BiHVATARfiJO Is about 7 miles westward of Petatlan. It is a small but excellent
harboar, of aboat a mile in extent, and open to all winds from south-westward. At
its entrance are soundings of 10 fathoms, decreasing gradually towards the head of the
bay, where there are 2^ to 1^ fathoms. T^ : 'n been surveyed by Captain Kellett, B.N.,
who places it in lat. 17° 38' 3", long. iJl" 80' 52". Lord Anson has described it
in the following terms : —

"It is about 80 leagues westward of Acapulco, and may easily be found by keeping
well in with the land, especially if sailing down the coast from Acapulco. There is a
beach of sand exteuding 18 leagues from / capulco to the westward, against which the
sea breaks so violently that we found it impossible to land with our boats ; yet the
ground is so clean, that, during the fair season, ships may anchor in great safety, at
the distance of one or 2 miles from the shore. The land adjacent to this beach is
generally low, full of villages, and planted with a great number of trees. On the tops
of some small eminences there are several look-out towers, so that, altogether, the face
of the country presents a very agreeable aspect ; for the cultivated part, which is the
part here described, extends some leagues back from the shore, where it seems to be
bounded by a chain of mountains, which extends a considerable distance on either side
of Acapnico.

The beach described above is the surest guide to those seeking Sihuatanejo ; for
6 miles westward of the extremity of the beach there is a hummock, which at first
makes like an island, and is in shape not much unlike the hill of Petatlan, though much
smaller. Three miles westward of this hummock is a white rock near the shore, which
cannot easily be passed by unobserved. It is about 2 cables from the shore, and lies
in a largo bay about 9 leagues over, tbe west point of which is the hill of Petatlan.

The harbour of Sihuatanejo is easily distiuguishcd by a large rock, 1^ miles S. i W.
from the middle of the entrance. I may add that this coast is no ways to be dreaded
between the middle of October and the beginning of May, uor is there any danger from
the winds. In the remaining part of the year, there are frequent and violent tornadoes,
heavy rains, and severe gales, from all points of the composs.

These are the marks by which the harbour may be known by those who keep well in
with the land ; but there is no mark for those who keep at a considerable distance at
sea, who must, consequently, make it by the latitude ; for there are so many ranges of
mountains rising one upon another inland, that no drawings of the appearance of the
coast can bo at all depended on, every little chaugo of distance or position bringing
new mountains into view, and producing an iufluity of different prospects, which render
all attempts at delineating the appearance of the land impossible.

SIHUATANEJO.

The entrance of the harhonr id bat half a mile broad ; the points which form it, and
which are faced with rocks almost perpendicular, bear from each other S.E. and
N.W. The barboar is surroanded on every side, excepting the western, with high
mn^n^ttimfi covered with trees. The passage in is very safe, on either side of the rock
that lies off the entrance, though we, both in going in and out, left it to the eastward.
The gronnd withoat the harhonr is gravel mixed with stones, but within is soft mad.
It is neeessary, when coming to an anchor, to make a good allowance for a great swell,
which fireqaently causes a great send of the sea ; as, likewise, for the ebbing and
flowing of the tide, which we observed to be about 6 feet, and to set nearly East and
West.

The watering-place is at the head of the bay. During our stay it bad the appear-
ance of a large standing lake, without any visible outlet into the sea, from which it is
separated by the strand. The origin of this lake is a spring, which babbles oat of the
gronnd nearly half a mile inland. We found the water a little brackish, but more
considerably so towards the sea-side ; for the nearer we advanced towards the springs
head, the softer and fresher it proved. This hid us under the necessity of filling our
casks from the farthest part of the lake, and occasioned us some trouble ; and would
have proved still more difficult, had it not been for our particular management, which,
on aecount of its convenience, deserves to be recommended to all watering at this
place. Oar method consisted in making use of canoes drawing but little water; for,
on loading them with a number of Bmall casks, they easily got up the lake to the
spring-head, and the small casks being there filled, were in the same manner trans-
ported back to the beach, where were some of the hands to put them into casks of »-
larger size.

Though this lake, daring onr risit, appeared to have no outlet to the sea, yet there
is reason to suppose thai in the lainy season it overflows the strand and commuuicatea
with tha sea, for Dampier speaks of it as a large river. Indeed it is necessary that a
Tast body of water should be amassed before it can rise high enough to overflow the
strand, since the neighbouring lands are so low that a gi-oat part of them must be
covered with water before it can run out over tbe beach."

Vh« OOabt. — From Sihaatanejo harbour tbe coast trends north-westward and west-
ward about 66 miles to a low, well-defined point of land, named Mangrove bluff,
situated in let. 17° 54' 5", long. 102° 12' 41", and forms thereby a largo open bay, at
the head of which are what are termed in tbe charts, tlie Canuta or Salt-pits. Over
the east side of Salt-pit bay is a high and very roniarkablo mountain. '*■'

At a short distance from the north-west side of Sihiiatanejo harbour, are throe white
islets or rocks, known as the Tlancos islets, of which the easternmost is the largest ;
they are square in form and not unlike a haystack in shape ; and are very oonepioaous
from the offing.

The depth at nearly 2 miles immediately south of Mangrove bluff is only 14 fathoms,

* A little river, tlie Bncatnla, ia repreeented in an old clinrl as fnllinf; into the sea on the eaat aide
of Mangrove bluff, but Captain Riclmvdg, R.N., Bays tliat if tlicro h a stream it muat be n very imall
en*, for Doihiug of the kind oonld be dieting iehed from the uiait-liead at the diatance of 1} milea.

MANGROVia BLUPF, &ti.

t>tt a bliingle bottoii), and this depth continnes eastward of the blaff ut the same distance
from the shore, for about 8 or 4 miles, when it suddenly deepens. At 8 miles west-
ward of the blufif, singularly enough there is a depth of 1B2 fathoms, on mud, at
scarcely 2 miles from the be«ch.

From Mangrove bluff the coast trends W. by N. about 50 miles to a low cliffy
headland, named Lizard point, in about lat. 18° 11', long. 108" 5', and is throughout
Dearly straight and without any remarkable feature. Some of the mountains close to
the sea are llOO feet high, and at 6 miles eastward from the point is one which rises
to the height of 1500 to 2000 feet. The soundings at miles westward from the bluff,
and 8 miles off shore; afe 60 to 70 fathoms, mud, which soon decreases to 40 and
85 fathoms, and this latter depth is maintained as far as 8 miles eastward from Lizard
point at a corresponding distance from the land, — namely 8 miles.

From Liaard point, the coast (which is generally steep and rises abruptly to thd
height of 2000 feet) trends W. by N. ^ N., a distance of 27 miles to Tejupan bluff, a
low point, with several large rocks or islets off it. Vessels frequently anchor here in
the dry season, close inshore and inside of the islets. At 10 miles before reaching the
bluff there is a bold projecting point of land, known as White Rock point, from the
circumstance that three white rocks lie off it in an S.S^E. direction; inside of these
rocks is a fertile looking spot with a village, and probably landing and shelter for boats.

At about 11 miles from the sea, and nearly midway between Lizard point and Teju-
pan bluff, is the mountain named the Paps of Tejupan. It is 6800 feet high, has a
double nipple summit, and appears conspicuously to a vessel passing up or down th0
coast, but not so distinctly when viewed directly from seaward, as it is then over-
shadowed by the ranges of mure lofty mountains behind it.

From Tejupan bluff, the coast, composed alternately of sandy beach and high cliff,
trends about N.W. to Black head, a distance of 18 mileSi The hills rise in successive
ranges parallel with thd coast-line ; those near the sea have an estimated height of
1500 to 2000 feet, while those farther inland are much higher. Black head, in lat.
18° 8B' 18", long. 108° 41' 61", is a cliffy peninsula, connected to the shore by a sandy
neck. A small white rock, 47 feet high, lies half a mile NAV. of the northern extreme
of the peninsula, and a bay (where there is anchorage in fine weather in 14 fathoms at
Ij- miles from the shore) lies northward of the rock. There is also anchorage in
10 fathoms at about 7 miles south-eastward from the head, at one mile from the shore.

The depth at 8 miles off Tejupan bluff is very great, as the bottom was not reached
by the Mtfe^fora with a line of 172 fathoms, and this deep water was found to exist, at
a similar distance from shore, foi* 20 miles eastward of the bluff or aS far as Lizard
point. Northward of the bluff, this deep water is succeeded by soundings of 55 to
40 fathoms, decreasing as Black head is approached, off which, at 2 miles due West^
is a depth of 88 fathoms, sand.

The mountains in the interior of this part of Mexico Are very lofly. That named
Colima, 12,000 feet high, the summit of which is estimated to be in lat. 10° 24' 42"«
long. 108" 88' 1", is very remarkable when seen distinctly ; but the hazo, which
generally hangs over the distant land, renders this seldom the case, and it therefore
cannot be counted Upon as a land-mark. It is a saddle-shaped mountain, having twei

100

MANZANILLA BAY.

tiharp conical summits, of apparontly nearly the same height ; the borizolitfll measure*
ment between them from ofl' Tejnpnn bluff is 45 miles.

Mttuaxa, a new Mexican port, about 5 miles no .ih-westward from Tejnpan blnff, is
situated on the nortb side of a creek commnnicating with a larg? lagoon and the sea.
The village consists of the castom-hetise (a hut made of palm leaves) and four or five
Indian huts. Its approximate geographical position, according to Commanders Main'
waring and Long, R.N., 1875, is lat. 18" 27', long. 108° 83'.

The anchorage is bad, being exposed to all winds from seaward except N.W., and
the shelter from that quarter is indifferent ; the bottom is loose sand. Coasters anchor
in Si fathoms about 200 yards from the shore. Food is scarce and water bad. The
locaGty is unhealthy. Communication with the interior is by bridle-paths only ; the
nearest town of importance is Colima, 150 miles distant. Brazil-wood is shipped
daring the fine season occasionally.

Gold diggings exist on the river Ostula, about 15 miles northward of Mamata, and
silver mines near Coalcoman, a town situated 120 miles in the interior, and con-
taining about 1500 inhabitants.

From Black head to the Sail rock, off point San Francisco, the eastern point of
Manzanilla bay, the distance is about 43 miles in a W.N.W. direction. The coast
between is low, being not more than 20 to 27 feet high, and is fronted by a sandy
bdauL

KAXVSAiffXXiX>A 8A-r. — ^Manzanilla and Browning bays (the latter a small bay
immediately north-westward of Manzanilla bay, from which it is separat"a only by »
little narrow projection of coast, named Pelican point) have an extent together of about
5 miles in a nwrtb-westerly direction ; from a supposed line connecting the outer points
of these bays the coast recedes 3.} miles. The soundings at the entrance are about
40 fathoms, and these decrease gradually to the beach, off which at a moderate dis-
tance is a depth of 5 to 8 fathoms. The village of Manzanilla is in the south-east part
of the bay, and consists of only a few huts. Behind it is a large lake which, with the
marshy land surrounding it, makes the port very onbealthy, especially in the fine
season.

In Manzanilla bay there is good shelter from southerly winds but not from those
directly from westward. Browning bay is open to southward, and is consequently safe
only mth off-shore winds. The anchorage in Manzanilla bay is at about a third of a
mile northward of the houses, in to 10 fathoms, and it is said that the ground holds
well. When approaching either of the bays from westward, a good look-out must be
maintained for the Sisters, a cluster of rocks above and under water, situated rather
more than half a mile S.S.E. from Gowllaud point, the west extremity of Browning bay.
Manzanilla is the port of Colima. a large city about 90 miles in the interior, which
is reported to have 80,000 inhabitants. It has been open to foreign vessels a great
many years, but is still far from prosperous.

Manzanilla bay was surveyed by Captain O. H. Richards, R.N., in 1868, and the
west end of the village ascertained to bo in lat. 10° 8' 18", long. 104° 17' 41". He
observes "The bay may bo known by White islet, 2i miles westward of its western

MANZANILLA BAY.

101

point of entrance.* A high rock liea close off this point ; and another white rock
(100 feet high), resembling a sail, at a quarter of a mile off the eastern point. From
the westward they are both remarkable. Approaching Manzanilla from westward, the
Vigia Grande, a remarkable cone-shaped hill, will also be seen just inside the Sail rock;
it is 740 feet high, and rises immediately over the anchorage. As neither the houses
nor shipping can be seen from seaward, this is a good mark to steer for, passing from
1^'to 2 miles outside the White islet, and the same distance from the west point of
entrance, when the Vigia Grande will bear E. i N., and may be steered for.

This course will lead more than a mile southward of or outside the Sisters, a gi-oup
of five rocks, the largest of which is 10 feet high. They lie in a direct line between
the west point of entrance and the Yigia Grande, distant from the former 2} miles.
A very remarkable table-topped mountain, 2G00 feet high, rises over the western point
of the bay, and is an excellent guide for the port. The anchorage is immediately
ander the Vigia Grande, about a third of a mile from the village, in 9 or 10 fathoms
water ; over mad, and good holding ground.

The bay is safe with all winds except gales from West or S.W., which do not occur
between the months of November and June, — the dry season, and singularly enough,
the least healthy ; fevers and ague prevail, more or less, at all times, but are more
fatal during the dry season. It is not recommended to lie here more than four or five
days at a time, and to take an off-shore berth, where the sea breeze will reach.

Fresh beef and vegetables, as well as other necessaries, can be obtained here. Fresh
water should on no account be received on board ; it is desirable that the crews o(
vessels should land as seldom as possible, and not be exposed in boats when avoidable."

The following remarks on Manzanilla bay are from the work of M. Duflot de Mofras,
18-1<1 : — " Manzanilla or Salagua port is infinitely superior to the open roadsteads of
San Bias and Mazatlan. It contains four excellenl anchorages, and vessels of considerable
draught of water can anchor in it s,t ail times. To find the bay, when at a distance
from the land, it is ueoessary to get into its latitude and then steer in for the coast,
having as a kuilmark the double peak of the volcano of Colima. When near the port,
the entrance of which is wide, it will be seen that it is divided into two bays by Pelican
point which runs to the southward ; the eastern bay is named Manzanilla ; the western.
Browning, and it is in this latter that the best watering place is to be found. When
the wind is from southward, it is preferable to anchor in the eastern bay, which may bo
reached from the entrance by stucring in a N.E. ^ E. direction ; the anchorage is in
Oi to 9 fathoms opposite Sau Pedrito rock. The wexlent bay may be reached by steer-
ing N.E. i N., and passing the Frailes rocks, which surround the second point of
Jiiluapan, the anchor should be cast in 5 or 6 fathoms behind the hill, at a short

• Known as Piedra Blanoa, an islet 300 feet liigli, and in lat. 19" 6", long. 104° 27' 30", according
to the chart of Captain G. II. BiohardB, 11. N. It is il miles westward from tlie anchorage in the
bay, and lies about one mile bom the shore. It is n quarter of a mile long, appenrJng wpdge-shaped
when seen from westward, and remarkubly white, being the resort of nmuerous sea birds. This
islet is the mark for Manzanilla bay, and may ho seen from westward iramodiattly on rounding
Navidad bead, a distanoe of nearly 20 miles ; it then appears just inside the extreme of the land.
It oan be seen easily from a vesBers deck at a distance of 15 miles, when bearing from E. i S.,
round 1^ north to W.N.W.

102

MANZANILLA BAY.

distance from the shore.')' To attain the anchorage in this bay with a leading wind steer
North a little easterly or westerly to avoid Pelican rock off Pelican point, which point it
has already been observed is directly opposite the entrance. The tide ocoars every
24 hoars, the flood in the morning and the ebb in the evening; it rises aboat 7 feet,
and the current runs to the southward.

Manzanilla is at abont 20 leagues from the city of Golima, the capital of the territory
of that name. The road from the sea is sufficiently good for carts, and the distance
might be considerably diminished by means of a short cut which wonld place the port
in commanication with the salt lagoon of Cayutlan, navigable by large flat boats. With
the exception of frequent earthquakes (and goitres, with which the inhabitants of Golima
are affected) there is nothing remarkable in the city ; the population amounts to about
20,000, who are wholly occupied in agriculture and commerce.

At 8 leagues from Manzanilla bay in an E.N.E. direction is the yoloano of Colima,
the most western of the Mexican volcanoes. Its summit is 11,995 feet high ; it is in
activity and emits sulphureous vapours, cinders and stones, but no lava has flowed from
it for a long period. The diameter of its crater is 492 feet, and its edge jagged. The
sides of the mountain are barren and cliffy. The sulphur on it is of bad quality. At ft
league northward of the volcano there is an extinct crater, the summit of which is
covered with snow ; this is 690 feet higher, and consequently has an elevation of
12,690 feet. The great height of these mountains renders them vinble from a con-
siderable distance at sea, hence in clear weather they form an excellent means of
recognising the land when approaching Manzanilla.

The valley in which Colima is situated is apparently formed of volcanic products and
decomposed lava. No minerals are found in it, but only very beautiful specimens of
porphyry. The vegetation of the plain consists of palms, aloes, pomegranates and fine
orange trees. Upon the higher lands are forests of sombre pines, covering the part of
the Sierra Madre which extends almost to Yalladolid."

The following remarks are by Mr. G. H. E. Horn, of the Hamburg barque Colima,
1860 *. — " When making tbe port of Manzanilla, the white rooky island of Piedra
Blanoa is an excellent mark, as it is seen from a considerable distance, standing out in
contrast with the darker hue of the coast behind and of the rocks near it. Having
sighted this islet, bring it to bear about N. by W., when a lofty peak in the interior will
bear N, ^ W., you then have Manzanilla, behind point San Francisco, about N. 80° E.,
on which course steer for the port. Approaching the coast you will obsen'e the heads
of several islets and rocks that lie about 1 or 2 cables off shore and around which is
deep water. From off point San Francisco, the bay has a regular decreasing depth
from 27 fathoms outside to 5 fathoms within a cable's length of the shore. Give this
point a good berth, as off its extremity, at the distance of about 80 yards, there are
teveral rocks, above and under water ; it is also advisable not to carry more sail than
necessary to keep steerage way on the vessel, for the harbour of Manzanilla being small
you must anchor almost immediately you have passed the point. When at the anchorage

* The Bisters rooka appear to be in tbe way o( this course. See the plau of Mansanilla bay ia tb«
Admiralty chart No. 610,

MMMMi

MANZANILLA BAY.

108

vessels can moor in perfect safety within half a cable of the beach ; — it will be much in
your favour to bring up as near the shore as possible, as you can then discharge and
load with greater rapidity. Making the bay you must not expect to see an inhabited place
of importance ; to the westward, in the small harbour of San Antonio,* there is a
rancho of eight or nine huts, while to the eastward, in the harboar of Manianilla, is the
town of the same name, containing a few houses and about fifty huts, but these are not
visible until you have rounded point San Francisco. The harboar is quite safe in both
seasons.

The crews of vessels frequently suffer from sickness here, occasioned by exalations
from the great swamps near Manzanilla ; added to which there is no good water to be
procured in the harbonr."

Captain W. H. Parker, P.M.S.S. Co (1871) gives the following directions for making
Manzanilla : — " In making Manzanilla from the westward it is better to get hold of the
" Frailes," then Navidad head, Cape Graham and White island — passing about one
mile from these points. The only out-lying danger is the Sister rock, about half a
mile off Gowlland point. If very dark or thick, you can easily make sure of avoid-
ing this rock by keeping over towards the starboard shore — run five miles from White
island and then haul up, bringing the Sugar Loaf (Vigia Chico) on your starboard bow ;
as you pass this close to, the lights of the town will open. Should there be no light
on the buoy, it may be found by steering (about E. by S. i S.) directly for a high peak
with which the buoy is in line.

Bound into Manzanilla from the eastward pass point Tejnpan at a distance of two
miles, and verify your position by taking the time when Black head is abeam. You
have then but 42 miles to run to Manzanilla point, and there is nothing to excuse
your ininning by the harbour. Manzanilla point is a bluff headland, and yon will be
sure to see it if you keep close enough to the shore. Sail rock will make out to the left
of the point, unless you are set off, in which case it will be on with the point and
cannot be seen.

Pass one-third of a mile from the rock and point, and follow the land round with a
port-helm to the buoy. It is all a bold shore."

Tbe COAST. — From Manzanilla bay the coast trends W. by N. about 20 miles to
cape Graham, the south point of Navidad bay, situated in lat. 19° 10' 80", long.
101" 40' 30". Throughout nearly the whole of this distance (for 13 miles eastward of
the cape) it consists of a low s'lore, not moro than 15 or 20 feet high, fronted by a
sandy beach, and having behind it a lagoon. In the interior the land rises in distinct
ranges to between 8000 and 4000 feet. On this sandy beach boats may generally land
during fine weather, and there is safe anchorage in 18 fathoms at half a mile from the
shore.

Cap* orabam is about 700 foet high and has a high peaked rook close to it, as well
as a smaller one, which, ho-.vever. do not readily appear as detaohedfrom the land from
any position that a vessel would bo iu. There is also a small rock (12 feet above low
water and always visible, being a few fuet above the surface at high tide) at about half

* Wo suppose that this is Bi'nwniii^ uay uf Captain Itioliards' chart.

104

NAVIDAD BAY.

a mile S.W. from tlm cape; on account of tbia rock, some caro is required vrhea
approaching Navidad bay from south-eastward.

JVAVZOAS BAT is formed by cape Graham and a very white projecting point of
land named Harbour point, 2^ miles N.N.W. from it. It has soundings shoaling from
25 fathoms at the entrance to 6 and 5 fathoms at a short distance from the beach, or
sand. The anchorage is in the north port of the hay, in 6 to 7 fathoms, under Harbour
point, which protects it from south-west winds. At nearly 6 miles westward from the
anchorage is a bold headland, named Navidad head, which is a conspicuous point of
land especially when viewed from north-westward. Navidad bead and bay are thus
described by GaptainG.H. Richards, B.N. ; — " Navidad headis awedged-sbaped summit,
about 400 feet high, falling in shore to a low neck, and is remarkable when seen from any
direction. On approachibg it within 8 or 4 miles, it is. seen to be an island, separated
from the main by a low locky ledge, which the water rises over. Off the head are
three remarkable rocks, extending in a south-west direction ; the centre one being white
with a smooth round top, covered with vegetation, and about 70 feet high. These
rocks give the head some slight resemblance to Farralone point, with the Frailes
rocks (9 miles westward from it) when seen from the north-westward ; but the peculiar
shape of the wedge island would prevent the possibility of a mistake after the first glance.

The White rock of Navidad has been mistaken for the White islet of Manzanilla by
strangers, and accidents have occurred in conseqneDce, but this mistake could only have
arisen in the absence of any chart. The Navidad rock is small, the centre of three, and
stands off a prominent headland. The White islet of Manzanilla, 20 miles to the south-
eastward, is very much larger, remarkably white, and stands alone, a mile from the
shore, but, being rather in a bight, cannot be seen projecting from any iv»<"'tion a vessel
would be in. Besides the three high rocks off Navidvi head, there is a sunken one,
which occasionally breaks, and lies S.E. i E. fioia Wiute rock, distant a short mile.

After rounding Navidad head from the north-,\i»nl at the distance of 2 miles, the
white sandy beach of Navidad bay will be seen, bearing E. by N., distant 7 miles. At
2 miles southward from the White rock of Navidad there are 60 fathoms water, and
steering thence for the anchorage it gradually shoals to 40 and 80 fathoms. The
north beach of Navidad bay is in lat. 19° 13', long. 104° 41' 25".

As the bay is approached, Harbonr point, a very remarkable high white point, will
be seen on the northern shore. Immediately round and inside this is the anchorage,
a very fair stopping place during the fine season, but it is not recommended for a
sailing vessel at other times, as there is a difficulty in getting out with a S.W. wind ; —
the best berth is in 7 fathoms water, sandy bottom, with Harbour point bearing S.S.W.
a quarter of a mile, and the same distance from the eastern shore of the bay, — sailing
vessels may anchor farther out, with the point bearing West, in 10 or 11 Mhoms, but
there will bo more swell.

A single house stands in the north hook of the bay, and a lagoon within a few
yards of the beach, where the water is fresh, and the natives say good, but it is not
recommended to use it unless a vessel is in distress. At the south-east end of the bay
is the north-west end of a long lagoon which here opens into the sea ; a strong stream
runs out of it, and there is sufficient depth fur boats at half tide. There is a small

TENACATITA AND PERULA BAYS.

105

village here, aad some supplies of fresh provisions may bo obtained. The anchorage
o£f this end of the bay is not recommended."

TBHAOATZTA BAT. — From Navidad head the ccast turns sharply northward fur
about 4 miles, and then trends westerly about 5 miles to Brothers point, tlie coast
between these headlands forming a large bay named Tenacatita. The direct bearing
and distance of Brothers point from Navidad head are N.W. by W. ^ W 5 miles.
Brothers point has a rather remarkable double hill immediately over it, which from
northward appears like an island; off the point is a high, square, perpendicular rock,
and there are also some smaller ones about it above water, and others farther out which
from their position are dangerous. The most dangerous of the known rocks are the
Porpoise, 7 feet above water, lying 14 miles W. by S. from the point ; and another,
upon which tbo sea breaks, S.E. by S. 8^ cables from the point. On account of these
rocks. Brothers point should have a berth of 2 miles,

Tenacatita bay is about 2^ miles deep, and is said to contain one or two rocks in its
north-west part. It has not been minutely examined, and should consequently be
entered with caution. It is asserted that there is good anchorage in its north-west
comer, where protection may be obtained from winds from north-westward. Sheltered
anchorage may be found off the village, on the east side of the bay, during the wet
season, and in West bay during the dry season. Tamarinda bay, on the east side,
also affords a secure anchorage, but there is more swell than off the village.

Tenacatita bay is considered preferable to Manzanilla as an anchorage, and is said to
be more healthy. It is easy of access, and appears free from hidden dangers, with the
exception of the rocks off Brothers point. The soundings are regular and the rocks
appear steep-to. After passing the line joining Brothers point and Tenacatita head, do
not approach the west shore within half a mile nor the eastern shore within a quarter
of a mile. If bound to West bay, pass eastward and northward of Bird islet, which is
10 feet high and has 8 fathoms water close-to.

A good berth off Tenacatita village is in 10 fathoms, with the village open north-
ward of the outer rock off Breakwater point avA Flat rock (3 feet high, and having 8
fathoms close-to) showing a little inside Tenacatita head. From the berth recommended
the water shoals regularly toward the shore, and a vessel loading may, if desii'ed, anchor
closer in 7 fathoms.

Water may be procured either near the village or in Tamarinda bay. Fire-wood is
abundant. Cattle abound in the vicinity of the bay. Coquita nut shells are abundant.*

FBBUXiA BAT. — From Brothers point the coast trends about 18 miles in a i orth-
westerly direction to Flat . Top point, the south extremity of Perula bay, which may
be easily recognised by the remarkable flat-topped mountain, 1100 feet high, which
rises over it and is conspicuous from northward and westward. When running along
this shore, the Frailes, situated about 6 miles from Brothers point, will present them-
selves to view as two needle-shaped rocks from 80 to 100 feet high ; and at about 7
miles from these is a low projecting point named Farralone.

Perula bay is formed by Flat Top point and a projection of the coast nearly 7 miles

* The above information respecting Teuacatita bay is mainly derived from a report by Com.
B. Long, H.M.S. Fantome, 1876.

106

PERULA BAY.

north-westward from it, named Rivas. In its north-wbat corner there is excellent
anchorage ia 8to 9 fathoms, sand, but nnfortanately it is directly open to southerly winds,
which frequently send in a very heavy sea. According to Captain G. H.Richards R.N.,
whose description of the bay we subjoin, the position of Rivas point is l»t. 19° 84' 81",
long. 105° 6' 38".

" Ferula bay, a spacious and convenient anchoi'age, is easily recognised from any
direction by two islands, which lie in the centre of it ; the northernmost of which,
Fassarera, 130 feet high, is remarkable from its perpendicular white cliffs which are
seen from a long distance. Colorada, the southern island, is rather lower, and has a
slightly reddish appearance. The best anchorage is in the northern part of the bay.
The entrance is between Rivas point and Fassarera island, and is a mile in breadth ;
the depth of water from 15 to Id fathoms.

Rivas point is bold and cliffy, with some dotached rocks 1^ cables off it, the onter
one of which is 80 feet high. From this rock a reef^ 2 feet above high water, and
on which the sea always breaks, lies East, distant 1^ cables, with deep water close to
it. There is anchorago iinywhere within a line between Rivas point and Fassarera
island, in from 10 to 14 fathoms water, but the most sheltered is with the high rook off
Bivas point bearing S.W. by S., distant about half a mile, or midway between it and
the sandy beach on the eastern side of the bay, where there are 4 and 5 fathoms at
1^ cables from the beach. Small vessels may anchor in the northern bigh» of the bay,
and be more out of the swell.

At the south-east end of the bay, nearly 4 miles from Rivas point, is the village of
Chamela. Vessels wishing to anchor near it should enter between Golorrda 'slandand
the small islands to the south-east of it ; this channel is two-thirds of a mile wide, and
free from danger. Large vessels may anchor in 8 fathoms, with the south point of
Cclorada island bearing S.W. by W., and the viUiige of Ohamela just open of San Fedro
islaud, midway between the island and the shore of the bay. Small vessels may anchor
in 4 fathoms inside Cucina iHland, whore they will bo two-thirds of a mile from the
village ; insido this it shoals rapidly, and oil' the village there is only one fathom water.
From Fassarera island a bar extends to the opposite sandy point of the bay, distant
two-thirds of a mile ; the lea^t depth of water on it is 8 fathoms, so that vessels of greater
draught cannot pass from the northorn auchorago to the southern part of the bay, but
must go outside the islands. The bottom is sandy, but good holding ground. Duriug
the fine season, from November till June, the sea breeze from N.W. is regular during
the day, and the laud wind at night, and the anchorage is perfectly safe ; but with
S.W. or S.E. wiudfi a heavy swell sets into every part of the bay.

Supplies of fresh beef, putiipkius, and water-melons may be had at the village, by
giving a day's notice ; thnro is also good water from a stream close tu it. Dy6-wood
is exported, but of an inferior quality."

Tu« COAST.— From Rivas point the count trends N.W. | N. about 60 miles to eapa
Oorrioutes, and tho land throughout is lofty, rising into peaks of 500 to 1100 feet
elevation* Whou sailing down tliis Co., ♦ from north- westward, it will bo observed that
a sandy beach connnuucus inunodiately southward of the cape. Soundings of 45 to 65
fathoms may bo obtained at 3 miles from tho laud, whei< 4 miles southward of the capo,
and wbeuovor a sandy beach liuu is mot with, a depth of 10 or 20 fathoms water will

CAPE CORRIENTES.

107

generally be found within a mile of it, where vessels maj' anchor if necessary. This
coast is not considered safe between.June and the erd of November, during which time
S.E. and S.W. gales are prevalent, bringing in a heavy sea.

Between 5 or 6 miles southwai'd of cape Oorrientes is a rather dangerous reef, known
as Cucharitas. That part of it above water projects from the land westward about
1^ miles, and consists of three or four small rocks, against which the sea breaks heavily.
Two sunken rocks are stated to exist about half a mile outside these ; hence the coast
hereabout should not be closely approached. The land is somewhat low about
Cucharitas, but rises at a short distance from the beach.

CAVii COBBXBNTB8 is a bold and lofty headland, with rather a flat summit,
which rises to the height of between 2000 and 8000 feet ; hence it is visible from a
gieat distance at sea. Its extreme point is estimated to be in lat. 20° 25', long. 105° 89'.
From northward and westward it does not present a remarkable appearance, but firom
southward it is bold and projecting. There are no known sunken dangers off it, and
the sea ie very deep in its immediate vicinity, as the surveyors when 4 miles westward
from it failed iu touching the bottom, although sounding 106 fathoms.

CAPE CORRIENTES TO MAZATLAN.

Maijnetic Vanatkm in 1879 x—At Bamieras Day 9° 10' E.; San Bias 9° 20' E :

Tres Marias Islands 9° 25' E. ; Mazatlan 9° 40' E. The annual increase

is estimated to be ^ or "i minutes.

BAMDBRAB BAT. — At capo Corrieutcs the coast trends N.E. by E. ^ E. 28 miles,
then northerly ;ibcuf, 8 miles, and afLerwards almost West to a narrrow projecting
point of land, known as point Mitn ; the bearing and distance from the cape to the
point being N. by E. ^ E. 24 miles. The space included within these limits is the
buy of Banueras, which may bo considered to ha^e an extent of about 20 miles from
West to East, and to bo 17 to 9 miles broad. The southern coast of the bay as far as
the river Real at its head, a distance of 28 miles, is high and precipitous, with occasional
valleys, through which small frosh-wator streams descend to the sea. From this river
to point Piodra Blanca, about 11 milos to the northward and westward, the shore is
low, sandy and covered with bushoH; it then rises into broken bluffs 10 to 20 feet high,
with occasional sand-beaches, which coutiuno us far as point Mita. The bay in nearly
every part is ntposod to the full force of westerly winds, the only places of shelter
being in CorralieiJ hnrhour, aud off its noithoi-n ^'.loro under point Piedra Blanca. At
a very short distance from its soutlicrn coast there is no bottom at 60 fathoms, but a
bank extends from its northern nlioro a cousidoruMe distau^e, the depth being 22
fathoms at about 8 miles south-westward from point Piedra Blanca. It is believed to
be clear of any sunken rocks exrept tliu roofs off poiui Iglesia, mentioned subsequently.

Oenraiits. — At about & milos oustwurd from cape CorrioutcH is the little harbour

103

YLAPO AND PENAS.

Corralies, in which vessels can anchor and ohtain shelter from all winds except those
from north-westward ; bat as only fine breezes ever come from that quarter, its pro-
tection may be considered complete. The entrance is free from danger beyond a few
yards from the shore, and there is deep water almost close to the rocks or coast ; the
harbour also so singularly resembles a basin or slip in its perfect smoothness and
safety, that a large ship could anchor near the laud and get oat fasts, thus lying in
perfect security. The land rises abruptly around it, particularly to the southward and
westward. There were no inhabitants in 1869, and it was believed to be destitute of
fresh water. The country in its vicinity is heavily timbered.

The depth in the middle of the basin or inner harbour is about 80 fathoms, and
within an oar's length of the beach t fathomi ; near the rocks within the same dislo^noe,
it is 7 fathoms, sandy bottom. The water is wonderfully clear, conseqnently any
sunken rocks can be readily seen. The only disadvantages of the bay are, it is small
and very deep.*

Point Iglesia, about 4 miles N.E. f £. from cape Gorrientes, may bo easily recog-
nised by a castellated rook which stands out from the land nearly a mile, and viewed
from westward appeat-s like an irregular cube. Outside this rock, perhaps a mile, are
two reefs 9 feet under water, over which the sea breaks occasionally. On account of
these reefs it is advisable to give this part of the coast a berth of at least 2^ miles.

Tiapo. — From point Iglesia tho coast trends 1^ miles N.K. | E. to point Obimo,
then E.N.E. i E. 4} miles to point Teioniala, and afterwards E. ^ N. 3J miiee to
Ylapo harbour, at the mouth of a small river of the same name, which is only a break
in the rocky shore extending into the laud about half a milo. From seaward the har-
''our appears broader than that of Corralios, and its depth of water is probably not so
'» iiderable. It is stated to be free from sunken daugorH, and to afford good shelter
V, ^>n S.W. gales. Vessels anchor in 15 to 20 fathoms, and obtain supplies of water
irom the river.

From Ylapo harbour the coast trends E.N.E. J E. 3} miles to Quemisto, a bight
with a sandy beach in which partial shelter from south-wuHtcrly winds can bo obtaii el.
Here are, or were (18G9), numerous lar}:;e houses or barracks which are used as (|uartora
for the men employed to load ships with log-wood.

From Quemisto to the Boca do Totnutlan tho distance is about 8 miles E. A B.
This harbour is very small, being merely a dock or slip in tho rocks at the mouth of
the little river Tomatlau. It is of more liiiiitod extent than Corralies harbour, and
quite as deep ; it will consequently accommodate only very small vuhhoIs.

About 2 miles eastward of the Boca do Toniutluii are thrco rocks near the shore,
named ArcuH, the largest of which is 210 feet high. The others aro 20 and PO teot
high respectively.

r«nas. — Four or Ave mites northward from the Arcos rocks is t>;e mou-h ' . U.9
river Ileal, whoro is the village of Ponas, which in frcqiioutod for dye-nood. Here

• Ooniniander Qeori^o Dewey, U.S. NHvy, doc h not re])iirt mi favourably of Onrrnlicii liarbonr. He
Bays " it ll itnpotiible to Riiohor there, A BuiiktMi rock, on wbieh tlie boa lirrnki in roiiKli weather,
liei off the haibour about U oablee from the ihorti." Probably thia ii cue of the reufi off poiut
Igloila.

up?--
."!■■■*

TRES MARIETAS, &c.

109

vessels anchor dating faTonrable weather close to the beach. Excellent fresh water
can be obtained from the river.

From Penas the coast trends 4 miles northward and north-westward to the Boca de
Tomates, the outlet of a lake which receives the river Valle or Piginto ; and, then,
north-westward 7 miles to point Piodra Blauca, under which vessels occasionally anchor
in 4 to 10 fathoms daring north-westerly winds. From this anchorage to point Mita
the distance is about 8 miles.

Veint auta. — Point Mita, a low, narrow, prcgecting point, is dangerous in con-
sequence of the numerous outlying rocks and reefs in its proximity, one of which (under
water) lies half a mile southward from it, and occasionally shows its presence by
breakers. About a mile inland from the point is a prominent hill, 590 feet high.
Vessels frequently anchor in about 7 fathoms on the south-east side of the point, at
about 1^ miles from its extremity, and obtain shelter from noiih-westerly winds ; it is
considered to be an excellent anchorage.

ir«» BKarietas. — About three miles S. by W. i W. from point Mita, and ' separated
from it by a clear navigable channel 8 to 24 fathoms deep, through which vessels may
safely pass by keeping nearer the islands than the const, are the two largest Marieta
islands, neither of which is so much as half a mile in extent. The eastern of these is
179 feet high; the western 182 feet. The third islet, a white rock 40 feet high, is
distant 7 miles S.W. by S. from the point. A small rock, only 16 feet high, lies half a
mile westward of the last-mentioned islet.

In the channel between the second Marieta islet and the third islet, the outermost,
there is a very dangerous rock, only one foot above the surface at high water, which
must be specially guarded against. It lies in nearly midway, being rather nearer the
second islet than the third.

oorv«nt«aa Book. — The Corventena, believed to be the outermost of the rocks to
seaward of Banderas bay, is distant 17 miles W. by S. i S. from point Mita, and
21 miles N.N.W. } W, from cape Corrientes; it is 8 cables in extent, east and west,
of whitish appearance and only 25 feet high. Its geographical position is lat.
20° 44' 10", long. 105° 47' 80". From its western side a reef extends a short distance.*

Th« COAST. — From point Mitathe const trends N.N.E. i^E.22 miles to point Raza,
and is bold, with occasional sand beaches. Off it at a moderate distance is a depth of
9 to 22 fathoms, the latter hoing about a mile from the land. Between points Mita
and Raza, and 9 miles distant fvoni the latter, is Monterey point, off which is a sunken
rock. The coast range of hills, rising 800 to 1000 feet, borders on the sea throughout

• Much to our atirpriso, in tho aflornoon wo npproncliod a small blaok (? white) rug^jud .ook, or,
more properly Bppakiii);, a closely connected clustsr of hninll rocks. The space they occupy does not
npponr to exceed the dhn('n<<i()ii8 of a lnr(?() ship's hull, nor arc they much higher. Tliey are at a
great distance from any land, and, so far as wo could perceive in passing them, — at the distance of
alinut half a league, — t)i« water near them nppi arcd to be deep in every direction. We could not
Kain soundintrR dose round tlirm with the Imnd-liuc, nor did this small rooky group seem to be
Bupported by any bod of rock or shallow bunk. Tho shorcH of the main land, eastward of them, at
tho dislanco of about H Icftgueg, appeared to bn broken, and about 10 miles within them are two
amall islets. These rockx, according to onr observations, Ho from the southornniost of the Marias,
B. ttO" E. (true), at tho distance of 13 ur lU longuei. Vi.ncouvtr.

110

SAN BLAS.

the whole distance ; behind it are lofty nioantains, of which the Oerro Vallcgo has an
altitude of 5086 feet. Point Baza, a reddish-colonred point about 80 feet high, is the
Bonth-vrestern boundary of Jaltemba bay, an open roadstead in which vessels sometimes
anchor with soath-easterly winds.

At about 2^ miles eastward of point Raza, and a mile from the shore, there is a
small islet 80 feet high, between which and the beach vessels anchor and load dye-'
wood.

Ten miles N. by E. i E. v r^ point Baza is the little ba> of Cbncola, in whirh small
TCP lols occasionally anchor; a c ales N. by \V. from this is point Custodios<

where a river falls into the sea.

From point Gustodios the coast trends N.N.E. 7 miles, and for the greater part
consists of bold cli£fs 75 to 100 feet high ; it then sweeps round in a curve to the
N.W. by W. i W. to point Gamaron, the eastern point of the Estero San Christoval.
The bay thus formed is known as that of San Bias. It is an open bay, exposed
throughout its whole extent to westerly and south-westerly winds, and we believe con-
tains no safe anchorage. The mountains immediately behind it rise to the height of
1000 and 1500 feet, and 10 miles in the interior, in the direction of N.E. by E. ^ E.
from point Gustodios, is the saddle mountain of San Juan, which is 7550 feet high.
When viewed on the bearing of E. by S. the two peaks of this mountain are strikingly
oonspicnous. Port San Bias is within the entrance of the Estero de Arsenal.

BAIT BLAB. — ^The town of San Bias is on the summit of a rather steep hill about
450 feet in height ; it is now of little commercial importance, the increasing trade of
the neighbouring port of Mazatlan having caused the principal merchants to remove
thither.')' Eastward and westward of the town is a stream ; that westward of it, known
as the Estero del Arsenal, is fronted by a bar of 7 to 8 feet waterf, immediately within
which is a depth of 12 to 18 feet and it is here that small vessels occasionally anchor; —
that eastward of it, the San Christoval, is almost dry at low water. The west point of
the Estero del Arsenal has a reef extending from it along the coast in a north-westerly
direction nearly three-quarters of a mile, parts of which are above water. As the depth
close to this reef is 12 to 18 feet, rapidly deepening seaward to 4^ fathoms, care is
necessary to avoid it when approaching the port from north-westward.

Piedras Islets. — At nearly a mile S.VV. from the port of San Bias is a rock or
islet 55 feet high, known as the Piedra Blancade Tierra, near to which are two smaller
rooks, the whole lying in a N.E. and S.W. direction and surrounded by shoal water,
immediately outside which is a depth of 5 fathoms. And, about 11 miles W. } N. from
the Piedra Blanca do Tierra ia the Piedra Blanca del Mar, a small white rock 145 feet
high and 420 feet long, in the immediate vicinity of which is a depth of 9 to 12 fathoms.
These rooky islets are excellent marks for the port of San Bias. The last mentioned

* In 1805 the town of Ban Bins was in rttins nnd the popniatinn hnd almoBt diisppoared.

t Tbo depth on the bar at the entrance to tlie Gstcro del Aracnat at low water is 13 feet, and 10
or 17 feet at high water. VeiRrls mnst mnnr Iicnd and stern in tlie Eflt)>rn, tlie ohannnl baing very
narrow ; ooce inaide, ihipi are iheltered frmn every wind. Commander Ueorye Dewey, U.S. Navy,
1874.

■Mi

SAN BLAS,

111

islet is in lat. 21" 84' 45", long. 105° 27'; from it monut San Juan is distant 80 miles in
the direction of £. i S., and the month of the river Santiago 5 miles E. by N. i N.

Directiong. — In making the port of San Bla-i tbo saddle-peaked mountain of San Juan
(7550 feet high), 18 miles E. by S. from the town, is an excellent mark. It should
also be borne in mind that the land to the southward of the port is high, while to the
northward it is low.

Vessels spproaching San Bias from southward should keep westward of Corventena
rock, although the wide channel between it and the Marietas may probably be safely
traversed, as it is believed to be free from sunken dangers beyond what are represented
on the .hart. Approaching from north-uestward, they should pass the Piedra Blanca
del Mar on the south aide, and steer thence for the Piedra Blanca do Tierra, pass it also
on its south side, and thence steer for the anchorage, where a birth may be selected at
convenience. The reason for the recommendation to go southward of the islets is that a
shoal extends about 8 miles from the coast in the vicinity of the Santiago river, on
parts of which is a depth of less than 8 fathoms.

Anchorage. — The usual anchorage at San Bias is in 4^ fathoms, sand, at nearly half
a m'^e eastward of the Piedra de Tierra, or farther out in 6^ fathoms at about the same
distance south-eastward from that rock. If the former anchorage be preferred, a good
spot is at half a mile S. ^ W. from the low rocky point of the harbour, with the two
Piedras in one. The roadstead is very much exposed to winds from S.S.W. to N.N.W.,
hence ships should always be prepared for sea, unless it be in the months in which
northerly winds are settled. In the event of the wind veering to westward, and a gale
from that quarter being apprehended, no time should be lost in slipping and endeavour-
ing to get an offing, as a vessel at anchor is deeply embayed, and the holding-ground
is very bad. In case of necessity, a vessel may cast to westward, and stand between
Piedra de Tierra and the Fort bluff, in order to make a tack westward of the rock ;
after which, it will not be necessary again to get northward of a line connecting the two
Piedras.

The anchorage should not bo frequented between the months of May and December,
because, during that period, the coast is visited by storms from southward and west-
ward, attended by heavy rains, and thunder and lightning. It is, besides, the sickly
season, and the inhabitants having all migrated to Topic, no business whatever is
transacted at the port.

Supplies of fresh beef, vegetables, wood, and water may sometimes be obtained
here. The latter, of excellent quality, is found in the Eusenada Matenoheu, 2i miles
eastward of San Bias. (1874).

I'idea. — It is high water at San Bias on the days of full an J change of the moon at
Oh. 45m. Spring tides rise about 0^ feet.

The following notes, made on a passage to San Bias, are by Lieut. Sherard Osbom,
R.N., 1846 r—

" Supposing a vessel, bound to the western coa^t of Mexico, safely round Cape Horn,
and rounding before the southerly gale which almoijt constantly blows along the shores
of South America, she ought to shape a course so as to cross the Equator in about
08" or 00° W. long., so that when she gets the Nurth-eaat Trade she will bo at least

■fi:

112

SAN BLAS.

G° or 7° eastward of her port, — San Bias or Mazatlan ; and have at the same time a
saiScient offing from the Galapagos islands to avoid their currents and variable winds.

We crossed in 105° long., having been recommended to do so by some old merchants
at Valparaiso, and were consequently, although a remarkably fast-sailiug ship, a
lamentably long time making the distance.

Our track led us to be exactly in the same longitude as our port, when we got the
2'rade, and it hanging well to the northward, we were consequently increasing our
distance, nntil in the latitude of San Bias, when an in shore tack, of course, shortened
it. iBnt, by the course I have recommended, the ^rs^ of the North-east Trade will drive
the vessel into the meridian of her port, and she will thus daily increase her distance.

Care mutit be taken when standing in for the land not to go to leaward of San Bias,
as there is a strong southerly cnn'ent along the coast, especially off cape Corrientes.=^<
If pcssible keep San Bias on an E.N. E. bearing. The Marias islands, off the port of
San Bias, are convenient points for making ; and here a master could leave his vessel
in perfect safety to water, while he communicated with his consignees, or got his over-
land letters from his owners at home. There is a safe mid-channel course between tho
middle and sonthem islands ; — we brought a saddle-shaped hill on the main a little
south of San Bias, one point open of the south island, and steered by compass
N.E. by E.

The two Piedras are excellent t^irks for the roadstead, which, by Beechey, is in
lat. 21° 82' 20", long. 105° 15' 15". A good anchorage for vessels awaiting orders
(for which purpose San Bias is now almost alone visited, except by English men-of-war,
and Yankee clippers), will be found with Piedra del Mar, N. 70'' W. ; Piedra de Tierra,
N. 43° W. ; and the village in the Kstero, N. 26° W.

Since the days of Hall and Beechey, the town of San Bias has vei^ much changed.
Its population of 20,000 has dwindled to 8000 residents, and their unwholesome
appearance fhlly accounts for the decrease of residents ; and nearly all its trade has
been transferred to its rival — Mazatlan.

The large town of Tepic, in the interior, with a small factory, owned by an English
merchant, causes a small demand for European luxuries, and a cargo or two of cotton ;
which petty trade is carried on during six healthy months in the year. A great deal of
smuggling is carried on from the neighbourhood of this port, the extensive bay, to the
southward affording great facilities to tho men-of-war's boats in that employment.

The town is built on the landward slope of a steep hill, which is almost perpendicular
to seaward, and has its crest crowned by the ruins of a custom-house ; but as this
is about three-quarters of a mile from the beach a large assemblage of huts has been
formed at the landing-place, in the Estero del Arsenal, for the convenience of supply-
ing tho shipping ; the occupants being, for the most part, grog-venders, fishermeDi
and an agent to the harbour master.

• In reference to tbe cnrreuU In the nciglibourhood of CKpe Corrientes, Commander W. H. Parke^.
r.M.S.B. Co. (1871) says : -" I must cnuUon you against one of tlie moat marked curranti on the
ooaat ; tho enrrent runnhig from cape Oraham (tho east point of Novidad bay) along tlie coaat,
towards cape Corrient«8, generally about N.W., but aometimeB Retting North, with conaiderable
velocity into Navidad, Tenacatita and Pernia bays." This statement would lead one to eipeot a
northerly onrrent in tlie vicinity of cape Corrientei.

BAN BLAS.

118

In the Estero del Arseiial, siflall craft, of less than 10 feet drattght, will find con-
venient anchorage, means of heaving down, &c. The watering-place is, at least,
8 miles from the above anchonigo ; and to assist the boats in this heavy work, it ia
always advisable to shift the vessel into such a position that they may make a fair
wind off and on whilst the daily sea-breeze blows.

The watering-place is at the northern extremity of a large open bay, south of San
Bias ; the beach is shoal, and the casks have to be rolled 800 or 400 yards through
the jangle to a stream of water. This stream, during the spring tides, is occasionally
brackish ; but we succeeded in obtaining supplies, by immersing the empty cask with
the bung in such a position that only the fresh water (which, of COursCj]^ Would be on
the surface) could enter. i

By rigging triangles with spars in such a position that the boats could go under them
to load, we snccceded in embarking daily B2 tons of water.

Many Useful and ornamental woods are to be procured on shore, for the mere trouble
of cutting, especially lignum vitas. Fresh beef we found good in quality. Game
moderately plentiful; oysters good and plentiful; vegetables scarce and «xpen8ive4
The climate may be summed up by the word 'execrable.'

On November Ist, the dry season cou^mences; the tempetattire rises steadily, and
the land yields all its moisture, until, by the month of May, the heat of the atmosphere
resembles that of an oven, and the air swarms with musquitoes and sandflies. _ ^The
sky is cloudless, the laud and sea-breeze regular, but not refreshing.

Eftvly in June, heavy banks of dark lowering clouds, charged with electricity, collect
on the high lauds in the interior, lowering masses of clouds hang to seaward. The
change is fast approaching, and before the 16th of June the rains commence and
deluge the land, iiccompanied by heavy squalls and a tumbling swell from seaward.
All vessels now have the coast unless able to take shelter in the estero j though of
late, inen-of-war, in eager search for freight, have held on, and found that the gales do
not, iu the winter, 'blow home.' At this season all the inhabitants, whose means
iitTord it, quit the coast for the interior.

For tli(! first inoutli, or six wooUs, the parched land absorbs the rain'; but, by the
niiiltllo of August, it becomes moist and swampy ; — the haunts of alligators and aquatic
birds. In September the action of the sun on water soddened land generates fever of
the most violent nature, and it behoves these who arrive early in the dry season to bo
cn'efil of exposure to the malaria."

The following notes on San Bias are from the work of M. Duflot de Mofras, 1844 : —
The roadHtead of San Bias is open and exposed. The anchorpge is safe in the dry
season and less dangerous during the rainy months than that of MaJiatlan. The extent
and configuration of tlie roadstead renders an appionch to it easy, and when leaving it
the prevailing current often aftbrda coiisidoiable assistance. It is recommended to
avoid remaining in it during the scoson of the cimloiiazos. The harbour has the great
advantage of being a little bay, called pI }>n:.o, which is closed in and sheltered from
the sea by a natural jetty of rocks. In this harliour there is considerable nccommoda*
tiuu for careening ; it is however to be rrgrctled that there is not room for more than
five or six vessels, which should not be of n greater draught than 10 feet or they will
lie Duablc to cross the bar.

\'i\

:' 1

114

SAN BLAS.

It is very easy to make San Bias, so many landmarks serve as gaides. After having
doubled the Marias islands, which are about 60 miles to seaward of the port, a course
may be steered for the land, and mount San Juan will be seen to the eastward. This
mountain is about 7550 feet high and situated in about lat. 21° 20' ; behind it is the
town of Tepic. When steering for the mountain, the Piedra del Mar or Afuera cannot
fail to be recognised as it is an enormous white rock about 150 feet high, and soon
after passing it at a short distance on its south side, another white rock will come into
view, named Piedra de Tierra or Adentro; this latter is the smaller rock, and exactly
marks the anchorage. It is eastward of the Piedra de Tierria where the anchor should
be cast, in about 8^ (?) fathoms.

The anchorage may be run for either during day or night. The two Piedras are
nearly East and West from each other, distant about 11 miles. All the coast of the
bay is quite clear from reefs and the soUndings are regular. While under sail it is
necessary to take notice of the direction of the current, which runs southward, some-
times with considerable strength.

San Bias is very unhealthy, especially during the rainy season when malignant fevers
prevail. There are clouds of mosquitoes and gnats whose stings often cause painful
eruptions, ophthalmic complaints, and serious inflamatory disorders ' — hence shipmasters
should not permit the sailors to sleep on deck, on shore, or in any place where they
will be exposed to these disagreeable pests.

Merchandise discharged at San Bias supplies the district of Colima. Some goods
are sent to Mazatlan, Durango, San Luis Potosi, and to Zacatccas. The vessels
usually retui'n in ballast, but occasionally go either to Mazathin or Banderas bay for
brazil-wtfod. If they arrive at San Bias in July, August or September, or even later
in the year, the cargoes are more easily disposed of than in the earlier mouths, as they
are then forwarded to the fair of San Juan de los Lagos and are privileged with a dis-
count of 58 per cent upon the charges of entry. San Juan de los Lagos is situated upon
the road from Mexico to Guadalajara, at 40 Icfrgues from the latter city; it is a small
place, but its fair is very important, as it coutimies 8 days and roeeives goods not only
from Mexican territory but also from Guatemala.

Seasons, Winds, dc. — The J'eor is divided into the dry and rainy seasons, the changes
into which take place generally and at variaMo periods. During the dry season the
weather is constantly fine. The winds prevail regularly during the day from N.W. to
West, following the direction of the coast and are replaced at night by a light breeze
from the land or by a calm.

Tito rainy season, which commences in June, is at ftvai indicated by calms and slight
showers; as the season advances the sbowurs become heavier and more frequent, and
instead of prevailing only at night they commence in the afternoon and terminate in
very violent tempests accompanied by thunder and lightning and violent winds from all
quarters of the horizon. This went 'er continues till the end of September and it fre-
quently occurs that the season is terminated by a violent hurricane, vivh usually
takes place from the Ist to the 6th of October, the period of the fete of 8:»:ut Francis.
These xtorins, which always prevail from S.E. to S.W., are of short duration; but their
violeuoo is bo great, and the sea which accompanies thou e > high, that nothing eau

Makia Islands.

lis

Insist their innuen'ce ; — whence they are known in the country by the term cordonazos di
San Francisco de Asis.-^ When overtaken in the roadstead by one of these storms the
anchor should be immediately raisedj or the cables cut, and the vessel run ashore (sic)*
At the approach of the cordonazo the offing should be run for^ or if obliged to anchor
in the roadstead it should be at such a distance from the land that it will be easy to
get away on the first intimations of its commencement. These observations are not
applicable to roadsteads entirely open, fur such should be avoided during the months
of September and October. Occasionally the cordonazo, contrary to the experience
of seanlen, occurs later than St; Francis' day; for instauccj on November 1st,
1889, twelve vessels supposing the season to have passed, were surprised in the port
of Mazatlan and were almost entirely destroyed. On November 1st, 1840, three
vessels, under a similar error, were lost in the roadstead of San Bias, and several
people were drowned^ without it being possible to render them any assistance^

Although this coast is within the region of the N.E. trade, yet such is its configuration
that a S.W. wind occupies its place in the Gulf of California ; it is not however felt on.
the coast northward of lat. 28°."

z«ab*i xsiantf. — This barren islet is situated in lat; 21° 52' 80", long. 105° 50', or
about 40 miles W.N.W. from San Bias. It is nearly 2 miles in length, N.W. by N4
and S.E. by S., 280 feet high, and about half a mile wide. There are several detached
rocks near it, the most conspicuous of which are two pinnacle rocks, nearly white, near
its uorth-eastei'n side. On the eastern and south'eastern sides of the islet are sand*
beaches, where boats may laud in good weather; The soundings in its immediate
vicinity are 15 and 21 fathoms and it is believed to be clear of sunken dangers beyond
the distance of a quarter of a mile from the rocksi'^'

BZARiA isXfANDB. — These islands lie about 70 miles to the westward of port Sad
Bias, between latitudes 21" 10' and 21° 40', and are three in number, — but really four,
if San Juauito, a large low rock of table form, situated about 4 miles northward of thei
northern island, i.*) included. They are known to the coasters as the tres MariaSt
Among nnd around thiun are many small rocks, whose heads are just above the water.

Maria Madr*, the northernmost of the large islands, is 11 miles long, and 8 to 6
miles broad. It lies in a S.E. and N.W. direction, — which is also nearly the line in
Vrhich the islands lie from each other. Its height is sufficiently great to render it
visible at the distance of nearly 18 leagues. Its highest part, near the middle, is
estimated to be 1094 feet, whence there is a gradual descent to the north-west ex-
tremity, a low projecting point. Off this end of the island a dangerous reef extends
■early a mile toward San Juanito ishind. Its south-eastern extremity also tormiuates
in a low projecting point, with some rock.s lying off it. There is tolerable anchorage
off the south-eastern part of tliis island, and a bench to the eastward of the south
point, where boats may land in good weather.

: 1

-hi

• Cordonazo — Spanish — Siroko with a cord or ropo.

t Tsftbol island is of moderate hoiplit, iicarlv Imrrrn, nnd its herbage and grasses ran Boarcoly bii
ifistinguiHlied. Neitlier wood nor water rtro to lie obtiiined from it. The bcacli is lined witli rocltSj
Willi tlio esoeption of a small H»ndy cove open to westward, wliere boats may bo hauled up on th«
atiora. The inland is only frccpiented by sealei.i. Ihi Petit Thouars, tomo 11<

■J

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118

MARIA ISLANDS.

San JuanitOf tlio northcrumost and smallest of the group, lies 2 railes north-west-
ward of Maria Madre island; it is 2^ mibs long, N. by W. and S. by E., aud 150 feet
high. A reef extends oflf its south-eastern aide nearly a mile toward Maria Madie,
rendering the channel between them very dangerous. A white rock, 150 feet high,
lies a mile off its western side.

Between this island and Magdalena island, the next to the southward, is a passage
about 6 luiles wide, with soundings of from 12 to 22 fathoms, sandy bottom, which is
believed to be free from sunken dangers.

MagdaUna island is about 8 miles long, east and west, and 2 to 4 miles wide; on
its southern side are several detached rocks. The shores, in general, but more «o on
its northern and eastern sides, descend gradually from the centre of the island (whose
summit is 1C90 feet in height), and terminate at the water-side in a fine sandy beach.
This island is more verdant than the other, as its vegetable productions exten J from
the more elevated parts to the sea, and grow with some luxuriance, although it'i soil is
principally of a sandy nature. The chief valuable production is lignum vitte; besides
wliich there is an almost impenetrable thicket of small trees and bushes of a thorny
nature, together with the prickly pear, and some plants of the orange and lemon tribe;
the whole growing as close to the water-side as the wash of the surf permits. A variety
of fish, common to the tropical regions, abound about the shores.

cieopba, the south-easternmost island, is nearly circular and only about 8 miles in
diameter. Its highest peak has an altitude of 1820 feet* A pinnacle rock, 100 feet
high, lies about three-quarters of a mile oH" the south-east point, and a white rock,
225 feet high, half a mile off its western side.

When navigating around these islands, some detached rocks are visible about their
shores, but all are sufficiently conspicuous to be avoided ; and there is reason to believe,
from the regularity of the soundings, that secure anchorage may be obtained against
the prevailing winds, at a convenient distance from them. These islands are of
volcanic origin. The western sides of all of them consist of high inaccessible cliffs,
perfectly barren, while the eastern sides are geuernlly low and sandy, with plenty of
vegetation.

Of these islands, Captain Boechey R.N., says : —

"The Tres Marias, situated 1° 15' west of San Bias, consist of three large islands,
steep and rocky to the westward, and sloping to the eastward, with long sandy spits.
Off the S.E. extremity of MiigJulena island (the centre of the group), we found the
soundings decreased rapidly from 75 fathoms to 17; and that after that depth thoy
were more regular. At 2 miles from the shore we found 10 and 12 fathoms, bad
holding-ground. There is nothing to make it desirable for a vessel to anchor at these
islands. Upon Magdalena there is said to be water of a bad description ; aud the
landing is in general very hazardous.

There are passages between each of the islands. The northern channel requires no
particular directions; that to the soutlnvard of Magdalena is the widest and best; but
pare must be taken to avoid a reef lying one-third of a mile from its S.W. point, and
a shoal extending 1^ miles from its south-eastern extremity. I did not stand close to
Cleopha island, but cocld perceive that there were breakers extending fully three-

MARIA ISLANDS.

Ill

quarters of a mile from its S.E. extremity; and I was informed at San Bias, that some
reefs also extend 2 to 4 miles from its south-western point. There is an islet off the
north-west part of this island, apparently bold on all sides ; but I cannot say how
closely it may be approached."

The COAST. — From San Bias the coast trends about N.W. ^ N., 120 miles to
Mazatlan, and is for the most part low, and covered with trees. It is believed to be
clear of sunken dangers beyond a moderate distance from the beach. In the vicinity
of Mazatlan the sea is said to be deeper at a corresponding distance from shore than it
is near San Bias.

SanUago Bivor, 8 miles W. by N. f N. from the entran. e to San Bias harbour, has
off its mouth a dangerous shoal which extfiuds nearly 3 miles toward Piedra Blanca
del Mar, leaving a safe passage by keeping near the rock.

Asadero Extero.- -Four miles northward of Santiago river is the entrance to the
Asadero estero. Here vessels come for cedar, dye-wood, &c., and anchor in 5 or 6
fathoms half a mile from the beach.

camichin Estero, about 8 miles farther northward, is also resorted to by vessels for
cedar, dye-wood, &e. The anchorage is in 5 or 6 fiithoms water hall a mile from the
shore.

Boca Tecapan. — From the entrance of the Camichin estero the coast trends in a
N.N.W.-Iy direction 45 miles to the Boca Tecapan, the barred mouth of an extensive
lagoon, into the northern part of which the river Bayona flows. The auchorage is
about 2 miles off the entrance to the estero, in 6 or 7 fathoms- The approximate
geographical position of the boca is lat. 22° 30', long. 105° 41'.

There are two channels leading into the estero, with 2 fathoms in the northern and
2i fathoms in the southern, at /ii;/h water. The sea breaks over the bar even in
moderate weather. The best time to enter is in the early morning before the sea-
breeze springs up. There is a small Indian village near the entrance, where tolerably
good fresh-water may be obtained,

Chamatia River. — This river is distant 24 miles N.W. ^ \V. from Boca Tecapan;
in the dry season it is navigable only by small boats or canoes. Its west point of entrance,
according to Lieut. E. Belcher, R.N., is in lat. 22° 47' 80", long. 105° 58'. Near the
mouth of the river arc llio Charaatla hills, 500 to 800 feet high. A lew miles up the
rivor are the small towns of Chamntia and Rosario. The anchorage is in G or 7
fathoms, a niilo off the eutranco. Tho depth on the bar is, wo bulieve, usually about
4 feet at low water.

About 18 or 20 miles from tho coast is a mountain range from 2000 to 3G00 feet
high and behind it another still higher.

From the entrance to Cliamulta river the coast trends N.W. ^ W. 34 miles to Maza'
Ian. All this coast is low and saiuly. and cut red with bushes. There are no know
outlying daugeiB, the water dcipjuiiig gradually from the shore to 10 or 12 fathoni -
2 miles distant. Midway between Mazatlan and Chamatla river, and 9 or 10 mil-
from tho coast, is a remarkable sierra, from 1200 to 1760 feet high, known as Lt.
Cabeza de Caballo.

-■■ i

t'l

1 1

1X8

MAZATLAN.

Jti'wn, 10 miles southward of Mazatlan, like the Chainatla, iu the dry seasoii
is only n);vigable by small boats. The moath of this river is in lat. 28° 6', long,
106° ^5'. ^

¥'hen beating up the coast between San Bias and Mazatlan, the lead shonld bo
fre([uently hove, as the soundings are an excellent guide and give a good indication of
the jiear vicinity of the land. Some of the low hills npon the shore, 27 miles fronj
Mazatlan, are shaped like cones. The current has a southerly set, at the rote of IB to
20 milos per day, but its direction and velocity are much affected by the prevailing
wind.

WAZis Til AN. — The river Mazatlan is about half a mile wide at the entrance where
the harbour is, and so very shallow that it can be entered only by small ve«sels at high
tide. The sands are nearly all dry at low water, at which time the depth over the ba»
is only about 6 feet, and in the channel within 9 to 12 feet.*

This port is easy of recognition, in consequence of the many islands with lofty conical
peaks in its vicinity, there being no other port on this part of the coast which is fronted
by a group of islands.

In 1827 the harbour of Maaatlan was surveyed by Captain Beechey, U.N., since
'^(hich time it is believed that considerable changes have taken place in the depth of
water, hence a piict's assistance is indispensable to vessels entering the port. Large
vessels anchor outside, iu 4 to 6 fiithoms water, to the southward of Creston island,
hereafter described. This anchorage is sheltered from N.W. winds, but the bottom is
said to be hard and not gQod holding.

Mazatlan has of late years supplanted the harbour of San Bias in its commercial
importance. The town stands on the west bank of the river, about a mile within thQ
entrance. During the busy season it has a population of 14,000 to 15,000, but less at
other times of the year. To the southward of the town is a pier extending off the
custom-house. Between the pier and the fort there are several dangerous sunken
rocks, hence it is necessary to give the shore a good brrtb here, and ipake for the head
of the per. A si;,-""! station is established on the hiil (200 feet high) behind the fort,

Lighters are employed for loading and unloading, the charge for which is 20 to
60 dollars. Custom-house dues &c., are high. The wants of a ship can be supplied
but the prices are exoessiye ; and only rain water is obtainable. The balhitjt consists
of sand ond shingle.

The principal exports are silver and other minerals. A large quantity of the former
is sent to San Francisco, coined and in bar.

There is a hospital at the town, which is of great utility during the rainy season, as
seveie fevers are then common.

Creston Maud is small but lofty r.nd of roundish form ; its seaward side rs perperir
dicular, giving it the appearance of a white cliff. Near its southern extremity it liscg
to a conical peak, 484 feet in height. Bluff point, its southern extreme, is, according
to Captain Beechey, K.N., in lat. 23° 11' 40", long. 10G° 2B'. In the rocky channel

• BhipmnBtcrs bound to the port should bp provided with the Ailitiiralty chart by Captain
Bcpchey, R.N., (l^o. 1876j, uud to this chart we must refer our readers, as a written description wilj
not convey so good an idea of thp port as an inspection of the chart.

Taa pagt JIB.

■hiiinttSilUP^apm. Vf. ct
\Ci£rvo I dtarsBlossanWf

06'25'6;BW.

MAZATLAN

Halt' !«au.tic Mile

o 1 2 s 4 b Cables

Soundings in Tathoms.

LONDON . Junu Imiiv & Son.

!l!

MAZATLAN.

between this island and the mainland to the northward is Azada island, with reeks
adjacent.

Blacic Rock, 7 feet high, lies aboEt three-quarters of a mile S.E. fro;n the summit of
Creston island, and about the same distance S. | W. from Ciervo island. The latter,
2.'>0 feet high, is situat-d on the east side of the harbour's cutrauce, and has shoal
water, over which the surf breaks heavily, between it and the mainland. About half a
mile eastward cf Ciervo is Gama island, 162 feet high, having numerous rocky islets
and shoals in its vicinity.

Blossow Uocic, distant about a quarter of a mile S.W. by S. from the higliest point
of Ciervo island, has only 10 feet water over it. It is (or was) guarded on its north
side by a ilag-b'^ )y.

At two-thirds of ii mile north-west of Creston ishxnd, are two rocky islets known as
the North and Sanlh Hermanos, lying N.E. and b.W. of each other and a quarter of a
mile apart. The latter has several rocks about it and at a quarter of a mile W.N.W.
from it is the Tortugas rock, about 5 feet above water. The soundings between these
islets and Creston island are and 7 fathoms,

Pajaros and Venado islands, 800 and 510 feet in height respectively, are situated
about 4 to 5 miles N.W. of Creston island. Venado is of irregular shape, and distant
about two-thirdh of a mile from the shore, to which it is joined by a flat of 2 J fathoms.
It is not so lofty as Creston, but 1ms a very similar appearance, and both islands can
be seen from pjaward a considerable time before the laud behind the town of Mazatlan
comes into view, hence they are good marks when approaching the port directly from
southward. Pajaros island lies about a mile N.N.W. from Venado, and is also con-
nected to the shoro by a flat of 2j fathoms or less. All the coast within these islands
is low and satuly. The low beach commenGca at the blull' point of Mazatlan river and
extends some miles north-w« oL>vard from the islands. Uctwccn these islands and the
main is a roadstead where v jssels occasionally anchor. This anchorage is considered
preferable during the rainy ieason to that southwar'' of Creston island, as, unlike the
latter, it is sheltered from southward and Houth-wept\uird.

Winds. — During the summer or rainy season, • , .'lich genorally lusts from the middle
of Juno to the end of October, the prevalent winds are from the South and S.W. ; they
frequently blow with great violence, rendering the anchorage otV Creston island highly
dangerous. During the winter or dry season N.W. winds are the most common and it
is at lliis season that vessels are able to visit port Mazatlan with safety. The direction
and strength of tlio current greaily depends on the wind.

During the stay ol'tlie sloaincr \'<irr<i;/iinscil from the (!th tt) tho 18tli February (187.'))
uorth-westerly winds were experienced during day and calms at night. The thermometer
ranged between 70" and 75° Fahr.

Tides. — It is high water at this placu at l)h, 40n),, full and change; springtides
rise 7 feet.

Tho following remarks on Mii/,;dlan are from tlm work of M. Duflot de Mofraa,
1841 : — " Miizatlan is distant from San UIiim about 120 miles ; tiie navigation between
is very easy and usually occupies 2 to 5 days. The intormodiuto coast is evorywhere
safe, and has ofl' it at a modorato distance a depth of to 1\ fathoms, and at some
miles in tho otling 88 to CS fatboms,

i^l

120

MAZATLAN.

The roadstead of Mazatlan, like that of San Blaa, la open and exposed, altliongh in
the dry season a vessel may anchor in it in security and find protection from the pre-
•vailing winds, which are then always from N.W. and from seaward. During the rainy
season, the port is exti-emely perilous ; if at this period a vessel be diiven on shore,
it would in all probability become a total loss, for the coast is strewn with rocks against
which the sea breaks with violence.

Large vessels anchor south of the town, and are sheltered on the west side by Creston,
a small but very lofty islet on the north-west sido of the roadstead ; this islet ia
separated from an island north of it by a channel only a few fathoms wide, and this last
islet is itself only a cable from the land. When approaching the port directly from
seaward, the object of recognition is Creston islet, which appears isolated ; to the north-.
T7estward of it are two islets named Vonado and Pajaros, which are nlso useful marks.

The anchorage at Mazatlan at present resorted to is southward of Creston island, but
the islets just mentioned form with the coast a roadstead wliich in former days was
mtch frequented by Spanish vessels and which is certainly to be preferred during the
rainy season. In this latter roadstead, there is shelter from southward and sontht
westward and the vessel, ii need be, can get to sea either through the channel between
the islands or between them and the coast ; but as during the dry season the prevailing
north-westerly winds are there very much fult, and the heavy seas tliey raise break ou
the beach with great violence, the discharge of cargo is rendered so dilUcult and
dangerous that vessels now prefer the roadstead southward of Creston whore these
inconveniences are not oxperienced.

The port of Mazatlan has been opened to foreign commeroe for some years ; the
official name applied to it by the Mexican government is La villa de los Coatillns. It«
population amounts to about 15,0UU during the rainy season, but is much larger during
the dry season or the period when foreign vessels arrive, for at that time the merchants
of the provinces of Chihuahua, Sonora, Coliraa, Sinuloa and Duningo, resort to it to
make their purchases. The trade is almost entirely in tha hands of foreigners who
realize considerable profits.

The town of Mazatlan is open on all sides, liaving neither fortifications nor batteries,
A few imliflorently equipped solliers forming the entire gmrison.

Ships ought to get their water in the peninsula wlrtli forms the sonth side of the
road; everywhere else it is brackish. Although Mazatlan is Kiss iinliealthy than Sau
Bias, severe fevers are common during the rainy season, un 1 as tlmro is no hospital ii)
the town, shipmasters should be strict in not allowing tlieir men to run into any
excesses, which might be followed by dangerous consequences.

Mazatlan is the only port in this part of Auierica, north of Guayaquil, wh'ire a ship
can procure a complete supply of provisions. A bullock costs 8 or \2 piastres. I'loup
from Ouaymas, which is excellent, is from 1*2 to l-l piastres for 12 arrobas (800 tb
English). Bail-cloth, pitch, tar, cordage, chains, anchors, and timber, partly fronj
wrecks) may bo procured in the stores (1810).

At lU leagues eastward of the port, on the road loading to San HIas and T(q)ic, and
B leagues from the sea, is the old presidio of Mazatlan. This village is now scarcrly
ipore thau a ruin ; for since the removal of the trade to the port, it has lust ul| itif

MAZATLAN.

121

military importance. Tbere are no vestiges of the old fortifications, aud the fine
barracks built by the Spaniards only serve now to shelter a few cavalry solJiei s ; tlio
population is about 500. The Rio de Mazatlan which runs near the presidio, and falls
into the harbour, is not navigable."

The following notes made on a passage from San Bias to Mazatlan, are by Lieut.
Sherard Osborn, H.N., 1846, " Leave San Bias with the first of the land breeze, and
after passing Piedra del Mar, endeavour to steer such a course as to be enabled to make
(0, good in-shore tack with the sea breeze on the morrow, taking care not to stand closer
to the shore than 8 fathoms in a large vessel, or 5 fathoms in a smaller one ; or,
should the sea breeze be found to have much northing, stand well off, when a con-
tinued wind instead of the land and sea-breezes will be obtained, and the strong
<3outhorly set in-shore be avoided. The ColUwjivood made the in-shore passage in
April, 1846, and had light airs with frequent calms, being generally too fur off shore at
night to benefit by the land-breeze ; she consequently was five days going 120 miles,
whilst the Spy did it in two and a half days by going well to seaward.

Mazatlan is easily recognised by the two bluff headlands which form the entrance to
the river, the northern and more conspicuous of the two, Ctcston, being an island, and
affording a little shelter from the northerly breezes wl;;ch prevail from January to May.
To the westerly and southerly breezes it is perfectly op. u, iinl has the only recommenda-
tion of being good holding ground. Tlie coasters run up tlio river oil' tlio new town of
Mazatlan, which has risen to considerable iii fnnco within a very recent period, not-
withstanding the disadvantages it labours una< > (xom the pnncity of supplies, both
finimal and vegetable ; and from water being both bad ' nee.

Mazatlan is now the outlet for the products of the vaiuublc mining district of San
Bebastiau, and imports directly and indirectly large cargoes of Knglish go^iiia. The
general healthiness of the climate, as compared with its more ancient inij.'' imr
San Bias, has materially tended to an increase of its population. The town, from being
built on the crests of some heights, clear of mangrove and swauij , had an air of
.cleanliness and pure ventilation rare in this part of America.

Vessels must invariably moor in the roadstead, open hawse to the W.S.W. but too
/olose a berth to Creston island is not advisable^, as tlio sijualls sweep over di great
etrongth. The ('(illiiu/ivodj drove, though slio hail »")() faliionis on each raole.

Watering is attended with great risk at all tinios at this place, especially at full and
iclmnge, the boats having to cross the heavy surf of tli(^ bar, formed between a long spit
which runs down the centre of the river, and a b ink Joining it from the south shore,
fievenil boats and li\.<8 are annually lost here. Wiien puiiing in care should bo taken
to cross the surf pretty close to the middle ground ; ami when through the first rollers,
to pull over to the south shore, and keep it on board up to the watering place. In
/coming out, no casks ought ti. bo allowed in the head sheets, everything depending upon
the buoyancy of the bout ; inattention to this point, caused the loss of two lives, to my
own knowledge.

The water is protiured from a number of wells dug by seamen, on alow alluvial island,
formed on a quick sand in the bod of the river ; none of thorn are consequently mort)
than 10 feet deep. The water is 1^ no moans sweet, but merely sea water, whicljL
nndergoei a partial purification in filtering through the soil.

i2d

MAZATLAN.

Supplies of all sort come from Oie neighbourhood of San Bias ; and as the bullocks
are driven that long d'" mce, and as on arrival they are instantly killed, from the want
of grass, the beef is necessarily lean and bad. Pork, fish, and oysters are however
plentiful ; vegetables are scarce. The river abounds in turtle of excellent quality ;
wood of various descriptions, principally hard, was plentiful, and at a short distance oak
and cedni might be obtained.

Old Mazatlan, which lies about 20 miles up the riv«r, was well known to ancient
navigators, as far back as 1587. " Master Thomas Gavaudish in the talle shippe
Desire, 120 tons, refreshed his gallant company before cruising off cape Lucas, for a
Spanish galleon ; and Don Sabastian Vizcaino, in an expedition to convert the
Californians to the Catholic faith, recruited his squadron iu the Bahia de Mazatlan."

The following remarks on the anchorage at Mazatlan are by Captain W. H. Parker,
P.M.S.S. Co., 1871 : — A good berth is iu 8 or 9 fathoms water, with South bluff, Greston
island, hearing W. by S. i S., Black rock S.S,E., and tiie town of Mazatlan N. by
W. i W.

To pick up t.Ms anchorage from the westward, pass Creston island at the distance of
half a cable, and steer E.N.E. Giervo isknd will then be a little open on the port
bow ; and when Black rock is abeam (S..S.E.) and the town of Mazatlan two-thirds of a
point forward on the port beam (N. by W. J W.), drop amshor^ Thie town will come
into view only a short time before it is time to anchor.

To pick up this anchorage from the douthw^rd, pass west of Black rock distant one
cable, and steer N. *} W. The town will then be in view, a little on the port bow.
Stand on until Greston island (South bluff) is half a point abaft the port beam (W. by
B. i S.) and ike town of Mazatlan about half a point on the port bow (N. by W. ^ W.),
when anchor.

In both cases, be sure to keep Monte Siila well open westward of Ciervo island, so
as jto keep clear of Blossom fock.

The above, I think, will be found a good anchorage during the greater part of the
year, and with the marks I have given can be taken up witb great facility.

■Should you wish to anchor nearer the town, steer about N, ^ E. from the position
above given ; but the lead must be kept going, and he sure not to open Azada island
with Pala point.

The objection to going too close iu, is the dilBculty of getting under weigh in a large
ship, as there is but scant room fm- manoeuvering.

During tlio bad season, September and October, you may wish to auiUor further out ;
but you will be governed by the weather and tlio length of your stu-

It is not popsiblo to mistake the port. Creston i« a small but very high island,
running to a sharp point— a very remiukablo coue. Ciervo umi tiaijua iulauds uro
very small, iu fact, huge, conical white rocks.

The current between Isabel igland and Mazatlan is probably geuorally to the southward.

Off Mazatlan, the soundings are vtiry bold. I have sounded with (iO fiitlionis line —
po bottom — 15 miles offHliorc,

Should you arrive off the port at i»ight you will see the lights of tbt town to the
^ttorthwftfd of C>'eHto» isjaud,"

!■ i- ':i

GULF OF CALIFORNIA,

fS/agnetk Variation in 1879 ; — At the entrance of the Gulf about 0° 50' E, ;

Guaymas Harbour 11° 80' E,; mouth of Colorado Biver 13° E. I

Ballenas or Whale Channel 12° E. ; La Paz Bay 10° 20' E,,

The annual increase is estimated to be 2 to 8 nunutes,

emitmAX, nuta^LKKfi. — Tl\e entrAnce to the (>ulf of Ctjilifornia may be consider^^
^0 be betijreeii Ma^atlan on tbe east, and cape Sau Lucas (at the south extremity of thd
palifornia Peninsula) 09 the west. It was designated bv the Qrst Spanish navigators
Jhe Red or Vermillion ^ea (ikf«r Ifvyo, Mar Vennejo), on account of the colour of its
water, and its resen^blance to the Red sea. The learned Jesuit Qissionaries, who
traversed it froi^ epd to en^i called it Seno Mar Lauretaneo, which me^ns gulf p^
sea of I^oreto.*

The length of the gulf i^ about 700 miles ; its greatjcst breadth is 180 miles at its
entrance ; but tbroughout its extent the distance from one side to the other varies froiQ
60 to 120 miles. Beyond the thirty-first parallel, its breadth rapidly diiQinishes to the
Rio Colorado, >yhich falls iuto it at its head. '|'he con^gurt^tion of tb^ Adi'iAtlc give^
fi very good idea of th^t of the Qulf of California,

It has been often remarked, that a singular phenomenon occurs here, which science
does not explain, and of which we possess but fevy examples ; — it is that of rain falling
>vhen the atmospbere is (][uite clear, and the sky perfectly serene. Humboldt and
Capt. Beechey have ^elated the fact ; the ^rst having testified as tp it^ occurring inland,
jthe second }n the open sea,

The two coast? of the Gulf of California run almost parallel with each other toward
jbhe N.W. ; they p.re fpr the most part low and full of salt marshes, tenanted by alligar
tors, reptiles, and iusoct^. The general aspect of the country is said to be naked and
desolate. There is an entire want of water and vegetation ; only piangroves, and some
J,horny plants, such as tlje cactus, maguoya (aloes), or acacias, beiug visible, Orango trees
or palms are rarely mot with, and one must proceed some Ici^gnos into the country to find
vegetable moi)ld. Tlio sho^'e is formed by sand and lauds (|uite unfit for cultiva|>ion.

In addition to a great nijmber offish, of various species, two kii^ds of immeuso shark
are found in tjie gulf, wbich often seize the pearl jfishors. Whiijes are also met with in
contsiderublo uuii)bers, i^ud on the islauds are numer nis seals and sea-calves, the fur^
pf which are very tliick, The poar| fisjiiory is, or nitber wi)s, carried on |n the gulf.

1 !

I ,' i

r Tlierfi nro apparoiitly only two rcasonB wliy the gulf of California was called tlie Vermillion Sea |
tlioHo nro indliably — l8t, tlio colour iiiiiMirlcd to tlip watejf during tlio rainy Kf asoii 'ty tlio rjvorH ilmining
a IVrruninoiiB country, the river Colorado CBpccijilly, and— iiiuily, llic bcantiful purple colour wliicli
the wavL'B take at punset and sunrise. In the day time the waters arc blue ot ^roon according as tlip
cIduiI.h intorccpt or modify the solar rays, conjointly with the nature and depth of tlic i>oltoni of tne
^en. It is also possible that the colour may W nmn\i to banks at its surl'^oo, cumpusod of niyrii^dg (if
piiiBtacea louiewhat similar to the prawns of the coasts of Europe.

124

GULF OF CALIFORNIA.

At the entrance of the gulf, on the eastern side, may be seen in the distance, the
Bummits of Sierra Madre ; these separate the provinces of Jalisco, Sinaloa, and Sonora,
and those of Nuevo Mexico, Chihuahua, and Diirango. The coast of Lower California
presents, without interruption, a aeries of rugged peaks of volcanic origin, and'^without
any vegetation. This mountain chain, which comes down from the North, and extends
throughout the whole peninsula, gradually decreases in elevation as it approaches cape
San Lucas.

The eastern side of the Gulf of California, between latitudes 28" and 82°, consists of
the coasts of the departments of Sinaloa and Sonora, which are divided by the river
Fuerte. The population of these two provinces is about 800,000, of whom perhaps
00,000 are Indians. The climate is temperate, and the lands in the interior are fertile,
but the principal sources of wealth are the mines of gold and silver ; it is said that
upwards of two hundred places have been explored and worked, and that these precious
metals are met with everywhere. In these two departments are some considerable
cities. The most important are in the province of Sinaloa, CtiUacan, where reside the
governor, bishop, and the prefet of the province kc, population aboiit 10,000, —
Rosario, having a population of possibly 3500, and where the general commanding the
forces ojf Sinaloa and Sonora resides. In the province of Sonora is Aiizpe, the
capital until the year 1839, when in consequence of the incursions of the Apache Indians
the seat of govorameut was transferred to the ancient mission of San Jose de los Urea,
40 leagues to the southward, — population 7000. In this province the port of Giiayvins
concentrates all maritime commerce, but Hermosillo is the centre of its trade and riches.
Besides these towns there are in these two provinces many large villages or pueblos.

In no part of the many miles of coast between Mazatlan and Guaymas is there a
town. At a short distance from the beach there is a depth of 7 to 8 fathoms, and at
] 5 to 20 miles from it 44 to 55 fathoms. The principal rivers, sailing northward
from the port of Mazatlan are the Pia^tla ; the Elota ; the Tavala ; the Culiacan, with
a small port named Altata (the sea in front of this river is so shallow that large vessels
ought to give the entrance an offing of 5 or G miles) ; the Tamasula ; the Macapule ;
the Sinaloa, — to the north-westward of which is point San Ignacio, whence a reef
extends seaward about 8 miles. North of point San Ignacio is the river Fuerte or
Santa Maria do Ahome, It is said that at the river Fuerte, it is necessary when
anchoring to get a mile north or south of tho ontnmco to obtain a depth of 5 to 6.J fa-
thoms. About 50 miles northward from Fuerte river is the mouth of the river Mayo
which \i almost closed by a bar. In the vicinity of Guaymas is the river Yaqui,
the banks of which are inhiibitcd by an Indian tribe of tho same uanio.

Although none of the rivers, just mentioned, arc nnvigablo, their eutrancoa will receive
coasters, which bring mcrcliaudise from Mazatlan, Guaymas and sometimes oven from
San Bias. Tlio goods are carried thonco on the backs of mules to Culiacan, Villa Feliz
de Tamasula, Sinaloa, Villa del FucrLo and Alamos,

Ofl" the coast of Sonora northward from Guaymas there are some islands which bear
the names of San Pedro Nolasco, San Fedro Martir, and in about lat. 20" that of
Tiburou. The last mentioned island is inhabited by the Seris tribe of Indians, who
have some huti on this main laud ; it is 10 leagues long, nnd is the only island in th«

GULF OF CALIFORNIA.

125

gnlf whicli 18 inhnbited. The channel eastward of the iaianu, between It and the shore,
is narrow and dangerous, and is fronted at its northern end by Fatos island.

All this part of the province of Sonora is banxu and inhabited only by stoma miser-
able Tepocas Indians. As far as the river Colorado the coast is for the most part very
low and barren, and the wind continually raises from it clond» of very tine sand.

The Colorado river has its source in United States torritoiy, in about hit. 40° ; its
length is estimated to be about 1 500 miles, of which aboi>t 000 miles is navigable
for vessels of small draught.

When descending the ueatern side of the gulf, from north to south, we pass the
watering places of San Felipe, San Fermin, Santa Ysabcl, La Visitacion, San
Estanislao, the bay of San Luis de Gouzaga, San Juan y San Pablo, Los Remedios,
the bay of Los Angeles, San Rafael, capes San Miguel and San Juan Bautista, the
islet of San Barnabe, cape Trinidad, Santa Anna islet, and the eape of Las Yirgcnes,
which ia the last extinct volcano in Lower California, and which, according to the
Jesuits, was still in activity in 1746. There is much sulphur iu the neighbourhood of
the crater of this volcano.

Upon the parallel of the volcano of cape Las Virgenes, at 5 and 8 leagues in the
interior, are the missions of Santa Maria Magdalena and Nuestra Benorade Guadalupe.
In lat. 29° ia the island of Angel de la Guardia which ia long and narrow, and forms
with the coast the Balleuas channel, where a great number of whales have been met
with. Opposite the island, at 9 leagues from the shore, is the mission of Sftu Francisco
de Boija.

Opposite the island of San Marcos, in lat. 27° 12', but at 6 leagues inland, there
still exists the mission of San Iguacio. That of Santa Rosalia lies half a league from
the sea on the banks of the river Muloge, Pearls are, of were, found here, and oq
the banks of the river fruits and grain are grown.

From Mulege bay to Loreto there ia always, near the land, a depth of 20 to 80
fathoms, and the coast contains several good anchorages ; the points met with are
Concepcion, Santa Teresa, Pulpito, San Juan,, Mereenarios, point Mangles, and
San Bruno cove.

At 8 leagues northward of Loreto the little island of Coronados offers shelter
from the north-eastward. Near the beach of the mission there is a depth of 4 fathoms,
and under the lea of the island of Carmen 18 to IG fathoms.

The mission of Real de Loreto, opposite Carmen island, was ooee the capital of Lower
California, but in 1844 it had only about 200 inhabitants ; it was then so much decayed
that the authorities had transferred to the Real de San Antonio. The presidio, the
mission, and the church, were iu ruins. These buildings, very substantially built by the
Jesuits, were intended to serve, iu case of attack, as an asylum to the inhabitants.
They are surrounded by a thick wall, which turns the waters of a torrent that descends
from the mountains ; and which several times washed away the houses and the
vegetable earth. The presidio was defeuded by some small bronze artillery, which was
never used. The church, for a long time after its decay, contained many pictures,
pilver tossels, and dedicated jewels of considerable value, which, though left quite
exposed, were considered safe from s^. liation.

1 ■

126

GULf' OF CALIFORJIiA.

At 15 leagues in the interior, westward of Loreto, are the missiotaa o^ San ^ose dti
Comandn and San Frandsco Xavier.

Southward of Carmen island are the iTanzantes islands, the Pearl hanks', the Galefaa
islands, Catalana, (3 leagues in length), Monserrate, &c. The only points visited hy
shipping are the harbours of La Piiz and San Jose del Cdbo'.

La Paz (where Cortez landed, May 8rd, 1535, )ris in lat. 21% long. 110''(appi'oximate)^
It iff the most c^ommercial port of Lower California, and the seat of the terri-
torial government. Vessels from San Bias, Mazatlan, and Guaymas, often come here
to purchase shell ect from IG to' 18 piastres' thequinfal, ftUd nrother-of-pearl shells at
d piastres the hundred-weight.

At La Paz, the Bio Yaqtfi, and Guaymas, small vessels of 20' to 46 tons each,
ate, at were formerly, fitted out for the pearl fishing. Hie divers afe all Yaquf
Indiaas, who often descend to a depth of 10 or 12 fathoms. The fishing begins la
M^, and ends in October. The principal pearl banks in the giilf afS iff th6 bay of
La PaZ, neaf Lofeto, the S.W. point of Carmen isla!n'd, Puerto Escondido, Los
Coronados, Los Dauzautes, San Bruno, and San Marcos islands.

tvinda. — The ^evailing winds in the gulf of CalifoVnia, fifbm Novembeif to May, Are
frow the north-west, afid froni May to K^ovember, from the south-east.

During the season of thef north-west winds the weather is always fine; though,
toward the head of the gulf, during the months of Decrenlber, January', and February ,t
moderate gales- from the north-west are frequently experienced.

During the rainy season, or from May to November, south-easterly gales may be
expected at any time below Guayrtas, tfnd occasionally a local htfrricane or cyclone,
known as "El Cordonazo," blows with great violence. This latter is generally toward
the end of the rainy season. After this the weathei* clears, the Eforth-weist witid sets
in, and fine weatfeef for six or seven months follows.

Cfirrents and Tides. — The currents depend in a great measure u'pon ibe prevailing
winds. Between Guaymas and San Bias they ai'e strong atfd ifi-egfttlar during the
rainy season.

Tides are felt throughout the Gulf of Culifornia; their height varies with the direction
and force of the wibd, artti the coufigUraltion of the coUstsf thus it is 7 feet at Mazatlan,
the road of \»hich is open; and at Guaymas, the port of which is strewn with islets,
and bheltered fronif the wind, it does not exceed 5^ feet.

In the ipper part of the gnlf, nbovo Gunynias, the tides ebb and flow regularly,
increasing in strength until tbo month of tho Colorado is reached, where the ebb tide
frequently flows at the rate of 5 or C knots per hour.

Th«i OOA8T. — The coast between Mazatlan and Gaaym:as is low and daftgerous and
should only be approached with the greatest caution. During the rainy season the
currents are strong and variable, particularly off the mouths of the small rivers and
esteroa.

About 8 miles N.N.W. from Pojafos island is Camftron point, a roeky bloff 60 feet
high, with a hill 885 feet high about n mile inlands Thence the coast trends N.W. i W«

BOCA TAVALA, CULIACAN RIVER, Ac.

127

2ij^ miles to Punta Piasthi, ti rocky headlatxl, 110 feet high, T,Vith a reef extending
ofif a sboi't distance to the southward and westward. The coast between these two
points is low and sandy, except at Grueza point ; midway between them lies a rocky
bluff surmounted by a hill 90 feet high. Nine miles to the nortbv/ard and eastwaM
of Grueza point is a double peak/ 2120 feet high ^ 5 miles to the westward of which
is a solitary table -peak 1220 feet high.

FUstia R*ver, 8 miles northward of the point of the same name, is a mere creek
until the rainy season converts' it into a torrent. Vessels which come here for dye-
wood anchor in 5 or fathoms, half a mile from the beuek and abreast a pier and some
huts on the shore. The approximate geographical position of the entilaBce of the
river is lat. 28° 42' 20", lonj?. 106" 45'.

Biota Btvdk', 15 miles north-west of Punta Piastla, like the Piastia, is merely a creek
in the dry season, but during the rains a turbid torrent. About 80 miles up the river
is the village of Elota. The approximate geographical position of the entrance of the
river is lat. 28° 54', long. 106° 5a'.

BvD* Ta^aia. — From Panta Piastla to Boca Tavala, or entrance to Ban Lorenzo
river, the coast trends N.W. f W. about 60 miles. The coast between tbem is low
and sandy, but free from outlying shoals. About 15 to 20 mile? inland 19 tbe Sierra
de San Sebastian, from 1000 to 5000 feet high,' and extending for 80 miles almost
parallel with the coasts The approximate geographical position of Boca Tavala is lat;,
24° 15', long. 107° 21' 80". The anchorage outside the entrance is in c or 7 fathoms
water, 2 miles from tbe beach, with tbe round-topped peak of the distant range of
mountains bearing N.E. by N. This peak is 4700 feet high, and distant &1 miles
from the anchorage.

The San Lorenzo river in tlie dry season is onfy navigable for coasters' drawing
6 feet. The distance from the mouth of the river to the village of Quila is 17 miles;>
Ships come here for dye-wood.'

ouuaoan Biv'Ai^. — From B>ca Tavala tlie trend of tbe coa«t i^ 1*1 ,W. by W. i W*
89 miles to the entrance of Altata estero and Guliacan river. All this coast is low
and sandy, the low land extending many miles inland to moderately high ranges of
mountains.

The channel into Ctfliaea'n river lies between heavy breakers which extend nearly
8 miles seaward of the entrance. The depth on the bar between these breakers varies,-
averaging 2^^ to 4^ fathoms.

The anchorage off Altata estero is in 6 fathoms, 8J mihes from the entrance, with
the saddle of El Dorado (2G21 feet high), in range with the distant Double peak (6897
foot high, 55 miles inland), bearing N. 43° E. Tliis is, or was (1873), also the range
for entering the estero, with 2i fatlioms on the bar at low water. Small vessels find
excellent anchorage, sheltered from every wind, off the village of Altata, inside the
esterov

Schooners and vessels of 50 or 100 tons can enter tbe river at any time, provided
they have sufficient wind in their fn'our to enable them to stem the tide, which has o-
■trength ocoasioually of 4 to 5 knots. The obb tide carries discoloured water several

iJii

•< i

128

GULF OF CALIFORNIA.

miles to sea; this is often mistaken for shoal water. The eonndings from seaward to
the bar decrease very regularly ; at the bar the depth decreases suddenly. The river'
above Altiita is reported to be navigable for a distance of 10 or 12 miles, with an
average depth of 5 fathoms.

Altata, the seaport of Culiacan, is a small village near the Culiacan river, which
empties into the ostei'o about 3^^ miles from the mouth of the latter.

The approximate geographical poi^ition of the village (assuming Creston island,
Mazatlan, to be in long. 106° 23) is lat. 24° 30' 30", long. 107° 63'.

It is high water on the days of full and change of the moon at lib. 80m<; spring
tides rise about C feet.

Supplies. — There is but a poor supply of drinkable wafer, and provisions are scarce.
Cattle can be procured from the rancho of Tule, at 6 miles from the landing place.

There is a good road from Altata and also from Salina to Culiacan ; it runs along
the river Culiacan which fulls into the cstero of Altata. On both banks are Indian
villages, the inhabitants of which cultivate maize, beans, &e. The distance from
Altata to Culiacan is 3U miles. Provisions and various means of conveyance can be
obtained at Altata.

Culiacan is the capital of the province of Siualoa. It was founded in 1634, thirteen
years after the taking of Mexico by Cortez. In 1853 the town was pillaged, since
then its importance has greatly diminished, so that it contains now (1867) only about
8000 inhabitants. If a time of tranquility were to return it would in all probability
soon regain prosperity, its geographical position being excellent. Its corameree is
chiefly in dye-woods, cotton, and maize.

The following instructions for Altata are very imperfect, and are added because they
may be of use in the event of the services of some one having a knowledge of the
locality not being obtainable ; — a pilot should be got if possible.

Captain Horn of the Hiirnbnrg barque Culima, 1860, says : — "As it is difficult to
rucoguise the locality of Altata, particularly in the dry season, a coaster with a dull
craft, well acquainted wiUi the coast, may possibly make a quicker passage than a
stranger in a fast clipper. Leaving Manzan- la in the dry season, which is best done
with the land breeze, it is advisable to make long tacks and carry as much canvas as
possible to stem the current, not doubling cape Corrientes too closely, the current there
being very strong. Having reacbed the parallel of 21", stand in for the coast, and
make the land in the vicinity of Piedra dtl Mar, in order to anchor, if it should fall
calm, as it generally does at night. lu the Cnliuia (JtSO tons) we brought up with the
small hedge (2J cwt.) and a 6 inch warp. The depth of water between Tecapan river
and Mazatlan, at about a mile from sIkwo, varies from 9 to 12 fathoms; there are no
known dangers but what are visible, tlio lead showing the distance from the land ; —
the vessel, beating to windward, should never leove anchoring ground, as the cun-ent
runs southward at a rate of 80 to 40 miles in 24 hours, and it would in a calm, drift
back a considerable distance.

On leaving Manzanilla in the rainy season, a passage to Altata ia very easily made,
carrying a fair wind all the way; but in the dry season when the N.W. wind is blowing,
much difficulty is experienced, as strong winds and currents are against you at thai

ALTATA, PLAYA COLORADO.

12»

tiftie. It ifl advisable to hng the Mexican coast, in order to anchor, in case it bLonld
fall calm, as it generally does at night ; — by standing out of anchoring ground it is
probable that the vessel will drift back in the calm, nearly as much distance as ^ras
gained when beating up. On the passage, sight will be obtained of the Sierra de San
Sebastian. Having approached about lat. 24° 89' or 2i° 10', long. 108° 10', the
saddle-shaped hill of Tamasula will bear N.N.E. ^ E. and the vessel will then be
W. by 8. from the anchorage, distant 7 miles. Steer E. by N. and anchor as soon
as in 8 fathoms water, muddy bottom. On steering for the anchorage of Altata, if the
lat. of 24° 85' be passed, take care not to approach the shore too much, as there are
reefs stretching out several miles to the southward. It is by no means safe to anchor
too near the shore. In case it should come on to blow it is requisite to slip anchor
and stand out to sea until the weather moderates."

Captain Clemenceau of the Bordeaux vessel Elizabeth, 18.58, srtys of this river,*
"The anchorage of Altata is in lat. 24° 42', and a little north of the entrance to the
river Culiacan. When approaching it from seaward, the first land seen is the moun-
tains of Agua-pepe, which are situated some miles in the interior of the country; these
present four detached summits, and it is the most northern of them that has to be
kept in view when running for the laud, — it should be kept eastward of N.N.E. in
order to avoid the bnks southward of the anchorage, which are said by the coasters
to extend 8 miles to seaward, but this distance there are reasons for believing is
exaggerated.

As all this coast is excessively low, it would be impossible at night to see any part
of the shore before striking on the banks just alluded to ; hence the lead must be
freely hove, especially if there be reason to suspect that the vessel is in their proximity.
The soundings are an excellent guide, and it is recommended not to get into a less
depth than 15 or 13 fathoms.

The coast at the anchor;ige trends S.E. and N.W. inclining a little to westward.
At a little more to the north it forms a point known as point Baradeta, off which are
some shoals which extend out a considerable distance, piiliaps 5 or miles. The
anchorage of Altata is between these shoals and others situated 4 miles to the south-
ward.

The fine season for visiting this coast commences in November and continues till
June. Daring this time vessels are in complete security."

From the entrance of the estero of Altata the distance to Boca Playa Colorado is
about 89 miles in a N.W. direction. All the intervening coast is low and dangerous,
as shoals extend off a long distance, particularly otf Tule estero, 10 miles above Altata,
and as far to the northward and westward as Altamura point, 9 miles above Boca Tule,
where shoal water (4^ fatlioms) is found 8 miles from the land.

riaya Colorado. — The entnince to the estero of Playa Colorado lies between two
lines of bhoals on which the sea breaks oven in moderate weather. The depth of
water in the channel is usually only 9 feet, but during the rainy season there is'
said to be 12 feet water on the bar.

■i

• Annalei Hydrographiquei, Vol XIV., Page 309.

GUI/F OF CALIFORNIA.

The anehontge is in 6 or 6 faihoms about 4 nileR from the motith of the estero, snd
at the head of the banks or shoals making oiT to the southward and westward.

To enter the estero make for the beach to* the eastward of the entrance, to within
half a mile of the shore, and then proceed parallel to the shore-line, passing between
the two lines of breakers, and carrying from 9 to 12 feet at low water. The tides
rise 6 feet.

The little town of Playa Colorado is 4 or 5 miles from the month of the estero, and
contains about 200 inhabitants. Its approxinnite geographical position is lat. 25° 15',
long. 108° 16'. Large quantities of dye-wood are annnaflly shipped from here.

The following observations on making Playa Colorado are by Captain Eisenmenger,
1969: — " Sailing for Playa Colorado from M&zatlan, I should recommend keeping the
Mexican coast on board as far as Tavala nvountain in about lat. 24° ; the coast thus
far may be considered tolerably clear, but always keep the lead going when standing
inshore to take advantage of land and sea breezes. Then stand across to the Lower
California coast, — where you ought to be able to make the south end of Ceralbo island,
but there is a strong current setting to the southward in mid-channel; then beat up
till abreast the north end of Espiritn Santo island, and you will probably be able to
fetch your port on the port tack. When in lat. 25° 10' or 25' 15', — or better still,
having sighted the Faralione of St.^ Ignacio (a conspicuous white roek in lat. 25" 26',
long. 109° 21'), steer due East inland, always keeping the lead going, till in about
6 fathoms; if you are then too far to the northward, run in this depth and at this
distance from the shore to the southward, till you see the breakers on the Altamura
banLs far out to sea in a S.S'.E. and almost South direction from you; yen may then
anchor in 6 or 6 fathoms, with the entrance of Playa Colorado inlet bearing obont N.E.,
and about 5 miles off the breakers on the bar.

There is a difficult bar before the entrance to this inlet ; part of it is a dry sand
bank, separated from the main land to the northward by a shallow channel, and on
which the sea continnaHy breaks. The entrance to the inlet is weH to the southward
of this sand bank — where you will find an opening in the breakers; having entered,
the channel' leads in smooth water in a northerly direction along the breakers on tho
bar, and the south bank which fronts Saliacca island (south of the entro.nce). When
up- with the above-mentioned dry sand bank, you may keep away and steer for the
furthermost point of land to the northward, where yon wiH fitid yotfrself in a beautiful
wide bay with- 6 to- 7 fathoms of water, p>;otected from all winds. The bay would
Meommodate hnadreds of ships. Coasting' vessels always enter over the bar, on whicb
there is about 18 feet at high water ; rise and fall of the tide about 7 feet.

The bay extends some' distance inland, nnd there is a channel' inr/ide Saliacca island
and the main by which small coasters and boats are snid to go to Altata.

The mainland fronting this bay is an extensive mangrrve swamp, cut through by
many riverlike inlets, which stretch a great way inland and then terminate suddenly
where the country begins to rise. These inlets are called estei'os ; and the latgiest of
them leads to two places whence the dye-woods come, Colorado and £1 Manglon. To
find the mouth of this estevo, after entering over the bar, follow tho north shore of the
bay as far as a high sandhill, which stands close to the shore ; then steer across the
kay, nearly midway, or latber uefM:«r the north shore, just keeping the northernmost

P^AYA COLORADO, Ac.

181

bush on Saliacca island open; this will lead yon (in a channel between two shallow
sand banks) up to the mouth of tho es'rro; follow the branch to the right; after passing
some bends you will find anothor branch to the right, which you must not enter, but
tho next fork beyond branches off to the tWo places, and yoii are then within a short
distance of either, — the branch to the right leading to Colorado, tho one to the left to
El Munglon. The right branch of the estero leading to Colorada is very crooked, with
many little creeks And openings in it, and now you mnst follow your own judgment,
keeping in general towards the feft hand ; from a boat's mast or a tr6e ou shore, you:
can see the masts of the small coasters 6r lighters, or even the houses and piles of
dye-wood at Colorado. The custom-house and port-captain's Office are at La Bregha,'.
about 12 miles from; Phaya Colorado, but rather nearer El Manglon.

Vessels from Mazatlan generally take a pilot at about $60.

Boca Navaeaista is distant 25^ miles W. by N. ^ N. from the entrance to Playa
Colorado. The tfnchotage otitside the eat'ero is in 6 fathoms, between 2 and 3 milesT
from the shore. The etitranc'e is* narrow and intricate, with 7 feet on the bar at low
water. It has become so shallow that the town of Navachista is fast becoming depopu-
lated, and its* rival, Playa Colorado, increasing to a corresponding extent. (1874).

Seven miles to the northward and westward, in the lagoon, is a remarkable white'
rock, 75 feet high.

On the small sand-island of Yitiorhmtf, wTiich lies b'etween the islands of San Ignacio'
and Macapule, tolerable good ft'esh-water may be obtained by sinking wells. Thsre
are several cotton farms or ranches on this island.

About 16 miles eastward of Boca Navachista is the nioiith of the riter Sinaloa,-
useless for navigatiotr.

Topoiobampo. — This harbortr Kes 2^^^^ filile^ W. by N. ^ N. from Boca Navachista.
Its entrance is between two lines of breakers and is exceedingly narrow and intricate.
The depth is (or was in 1874) 2i^ to" 3 fathoms on' the bar at low' water, b ' as the
shoals constantly shift no dependence Can be placed on the same depth being maintained
any length of time. Before entering this fine bay with a vessel drawing more than-
12 feet, it wouM be nebessary to soimd tmd buoy the channel.

The approximate geographical positiorr of the entrance to Topolobampb' harbour iff
lat. 25° 32', long. 109° 7'.

The FarallOne of San I^acio (hereafter described), a small ban-en lotsk, 10 miltds
S. by £. fronr San Ignacio' point, and the highlands of Topolobampb and San Ignacio,
are excellent landuiarks for making the anchorage off the mouth of the harbour.

Inside the shoab there is excellent anchorage in 7 or 8 fathoms, sheltered from
every wind.

Foint San zgAaeio, in about lat. 25° 30', long. 109^ 20', is distant I'H miles
W. i N. ft-om the entr'jce to Topoiobampo harbour. The intervening coast forms an
open bay known as the bay of. San Ignacio. There is good anchorage in this bay in'
north-west winds, but to southerly winds' it is entirely ex^wsed. A dangerous shoal
extends off the point 3 or 4 miles to the westward, also to the southward about a mile >
close around this reef the sbundiugs are 19 and 20 fathoms.

San zgnacto Faraiione.-^At about 10 miles S. by E. from San Ignacio point is a-
tmall rocky island (perhaps 1^ miles long) of the same name, which rises to the height'

lii

18SI

GULF OF CALIFORNIA.

: i

of 465 feet, and is the resort of numerous seals, sea-lions and birds; its position is
about lat. 25° 26', long. 109° 21', and its situation in the gulf makes it a prominent
object to such vessels bound northward as may get too far over to the eastern shore.

From point San Ignacio the coast turns sharply to the northward and for about
20 miles consists of a low shore with extensive lagoons (or esteros) behind it.

Abom« iilT«r. — The entrance to Ahome, or Fuerte. river is in about lat. 25° 55',
long. 109° 24'. Shoal water extends a long distance off the mouth of this river, so
that it is only navigable by small coasters. The village of Ahome is situated about
10 miles from the sea ; from this village a road rune along the left bank of the river to
Fuerte, a distance of about 80 miles. In the rainy season large quantities of dye-wood
are floated down in rafts and flat-boats. The anchorage is ofi' the entrance in
6^^ fathoms water.

About 11 miles N. by E. from the mouth of Ahome river is the entrance of
Alamos river, which is only navigable for the smallest coasters. Four miles to the
Bouthwatd of this river is a remarkable hill, 406 feet high, known as Alligator hill.
This hill serves, with mount Alamos, ns an excellent landmark f()r finding Agiabampo.

Agia^' •npo. — Agiabampo estero is distant about 10 miles to the uortliward of point
San Ignacio. The southern or main entrance channel is narrow and iulricato, being
between shoals and sand bars, upon which the sea breaks. The least depth on the
bar in this channel in 18GG was 6 to 12 feet, but it is subject to change. The depth
immediately outside this channel is 4 to G fathoms. On the souchem side of the
entrance of the port is, or was, a cross standing on a sand-hill 75 feet Ligii. To enter
the estero bring this cross, or hill, to bear East, asid steer directly for it until iuaide
the northern shoal, then haul up and run parallel to the shore. (1874),

The town of Agiabampo is 9 miles from the crosa. Dye-wood, silver-ore, and
treasures are shipped from this port. Tho distance from ihe landing place of Agia-
bampo to Alamos is 45 miles, and to Fuerte 47 iiiiles, along carriage roads.

The geographical position of the cross on the hill is considered to be lat. 20° IG' 18",
long. 109° 15'.

In 18G9 there were two navigable channels in use; the northoiii channel, round the
north-east extremity of the sand-bar fronting the port, then carried G feet water in flne
weather.

Captain Townsend, ll.N., who visited the harbour in 18GG, says "Agiabampo is
difficult to find as the coast " . composed of one loug lino of low sand-hills covered with
bushes ; mount Alamos to the north, and Alligator hill to the south are the best guides
to it. The best anchorage is in about 7 or H tathoms, with Alligator hill bearing
S. i "W. ; mount Alamos N. by E. .} E. ; and the cioss on the hill E. ' H. The sound-
ings decrease very regularly until ndr the bar, wiien from fJJ fathomn the water shoals
suddenly to 9 loot. The best timr for boats to outer in the morning, before or with
the first of the sea breeze. Schooners of 50 to 100 tons go in ftud out with tho sea
and laud winds. Treasure fi'oui Alamos Is uow shipped hero ; it is, ounKcqueutly, much
frequented."

Santa Barbara Bay. — From Agiabampo tho coast trends northerly and then westerly
tu tlio euiiaucc of £Iayo rivor, a distauue of about <15 miles ; 10 miles tai thur westward

CIARIS AND LOBOS ISLANDS.

188

is a low reddish point, known e.s Panta Rosa, the western limit of Santa Barbara bay.
The approximate geographical position of Punta Kosa is lat. 26° 40', long. 109° 38'.

On the western side of Sunta Barbara bay, and about a mile insido Puuta llosa, is
an excellent anchorage in north-west wi)}ds, but entirely open to those from the south-
east. The best anchorage is iu or 7 fathoms thi-ee-fourths of a mile from the shore,
with the ruins of an Indian house on the beach bearing N.N.W.

The country in this vicinity is fertile and well watered, and quite thickly populated.
About 8 miles from the mouth of the Mayo, and on its right bank, is the Indian town
of Santa Cruz.

The Moyo, like all the rivers on this coast, is closed by a bar, leaving a narrow
channel on the eastern side of 2 fathoms in the dry season. About 82 miles north-
east from the mouth of the Mayo, is mount Alamos, 1980 feet high, an excellent land-
mark in navigating the coast.

Santa Barbara is the port of Alamos, which is distant 82 miles along a carriage
road. Provisions are, or were, plentiful.

From Punta Rosa the coast trends W.N.W. 12 J^ miles to Arboleda point and is
fronted by shonl water to a considerable distance. A few miles inland of Arboleda
point is a remarkable clump of trees, the only trees in this locality, and an excellent
landmark.

Claris laiand, separated from the main by a narrow estero of the same name, forms
the coast-liBo to the northward of Arboleda point, as far as the entrance to the estero.
It is a low island about 12 miles in extent and is distinguished from Lobos island,
farther to the northward, by the absence of the palm-tree.

From the north-western end of Ciaria island to Lobos point, in about lat. 27° 20',
long. 110° 85', the distance is 42 miles and direction W. by N. ^ N. This coast is
low and sandy, covered with bushes and cut up by lagoous, oft" the entrances to which
shoal water extends from 1 to 2 miles. Lobos point is the south-west extreme of
LoboS" island; a dangerous shore makes off nearly 2 miles to the northward and we'jt-
ward of iliis point.

laoboB Island, about 4^^ miles in extent, is low and sandy, and is separated from the
inaiulaud by the narrow Estero de la Luna. The highest part of the island is a
remarkable grocu tnouiul, 75 feet high, about a mile south-eastward of Lobos point; it
is iaiown as Monte Verdo. lUtwoon the hill and the point is a solitary poun-tree,
by which the locality is recogiiistul by the caiiHtors.

About 40 miles E.N.E. from Lobos point, and to the south-eastward of Sierra
Yaqui, is the siuiill range of Buroyeca, the highest peak of which has an altitude of
8298 feet.

From Lobos point the coast trends northerly for about 82 miles to Cerro Yaoicoris ;
it is vorj low, cou.-iiHting nuu'oly of a narrow stoop of saiul, separating the sea from
the numerous lagoons boluud. Midway of the above distance is the inouth of tho Now
Yaqui river. 'J'ho entrance of the Yaqui is filloil with shoals and sand-bars, and in the
dry season is only navigable for tlio smallest coasters. All tho country watered b;, tlio
rivers Yaiiui and Mayn is exclusively inhabited by Indians. Formerly the mouth of
Yaqui river was just to t!ic iMislward of Cerro Yacicoris.

About 20 miles inland, and to the eastward of Corro Yaoicoris, is u range of moun-

J94

GULF OF CALIFORNIA..

!■

iaina known as tke Sietis, Yaqui, the highest peak of which, mount Bacatele, has an
altitnde of 8842 feat.

From Gerro Yaeicoris the coast, consisting of a smooth sand'heaeh, trends westerly
Aboat 18 miles to Morro Inglese, at the entrance of Guaymas ha^'bour.

ocTAYasAS, the most important harbour in the Gulf of Galifornia, is situated on the
north-east side of a hilly peninsula, of which cape Haro, 5 miles South {true) from the
town, is tl]« extremity. Gape Uaro, according lo Cnpt. Kellett's observations, is in lat.
27° 50' 80", long. 110° 51' 40". The harbour is 8 miles in extent, is protected by
several islands, and has a depth of 6 to 2 fathoms, the latter being immediately off
the town. The population in 1874 was about 4000.

The outermost island, Pajaros, is 212 feet high, and connected on its northern side
to a low sandy neck of land, th£ Playa de los Dolpres, by a shallow flat of 15 feet ;
the proper passage into the harbour for large vessels is consequently westward of
this island, between its south end and the coast, through a channel half a mile wide
.and about 6 fathoms deep. The island of Trinidad, to the westward of the entrance, is
now known as San Vicente. When within, vessels are sheltered from all winds, and
anchoi'age may be selected according to the ship's draught of water.

This port, although small, is one of the best on the coast of the Pacific. It is
perfectly sheltered from all winds, and is sufficiently deep to accommodate frigates.
Vessels of light draught can approach the mole, which is in a bad state, and if the
water in front of this were dredged so as to increase the depth 9 or 10 feet, almost all
commercial vessels could get to it. (1867).

Supplies. — Fresh-water is of indifferent quality and expensive ; the same may be
said of the wood. Excellent flour, fresh bread, and beef, may be obtained in any
quantity and at moderate prices. No salt provisions or ship's stores can be purchased.

At present (1874) the Golorado River Steam Navigation Company has a small
quantity of coal for steaming purposes deposited here.

Tides. — It is high water on the days of full and change of Ihe moon at 8h. and the
rise of tide is about 4 feet, but dependent upon the winds which sometiiqes in rease it
to 10 and 12 feet,

Some of the hills immediately over the town are lofty, of these mount Vigia, having
an estimated height of 1585 feet, is considered to bo the highest. Mount Ban Rafael
over capo Haro is probably 1310 feet high.

The following notes on Guaymas are extracted from the work of M. Diiflot de
Mofras, 1844 : — " The port of Guaymas may bo recognised from tiie offing by a
mountain surmounted by two peaks which are supposed to ri'somblo the teats of a goat ;
hence the mountain is named by the Moxifians Lns Tetus do Ciibra. Wlien tliis is
distinguished, run along the coast, leaving it a little to port, nuJ Pajiivos island, on the
east side of the entrance, will soon bo seen ; steer new so as to leave this iHland to
starboard, and you will pass through tlio channel which it forms with the shore, nnd
soon gain sight of the town and port of Guayn^as. It is neceflsary to pass westward
of rujarits island because a bank runs from it northward to the blioro. Tiio rntranre of
the harbour once doubled, two islands are seen ip tlie inuer part of the buy, and the
pasHiige in between these to roach the anciiorage, near or otf the land, according to the
vessel's draught of water. Vcnsels under 100 tons make fast to the landing place, and

GUAYMAS.

1S5

those drawing 12 to 16 feet anchor a quarter of a mile off, in 8 or 4 fathoms. Large
vessels should cast anchor ontside these islands in 6 or 7 fathoms water. This
harbour, which would hold a considerable number of vessels, is very safe in all seasons ;
the bottom is good holding ground, aud it is sheltered from all winds, and forms a large
basin, strewn with islands, which prevent any heavy swell from reaching it. The bank
in front of the entrance is tbu only danger to shipping but it is easily avoided with
leading winds, by keeping along the laud, A vessel obliged to beat in, must be careful
not to touch this sboal.

The town of Guaymas has usually about 5000 inhabitants during the fine season, —
during the rainy season about 2000 return to the small towns in tbe interior. The port
possesses neither fovtifications nor garrison. There are numerous military aiii naval
oflScers residing in this town, but as for the vessels of the latter they exist only on paper.

Tbe low price and excellent quality of the flour at Guaymas offer considerable
advantages to shipping requiring such. The merchants export the flour to Mazatlan,
San Bias, Loreto, and La P^*.?. Bnllocks are sold for about 12 piastres. Vegetables
ar.'i very scarce and dear, and the water in the harbour is so bad that it is usual to send
boats for it to the river Yaqui r.bout 12 miles eastward of the port.

Guaymas is surrounded by high mountains, hence the heat is very great in the rainy
season. Tbe same fevers prevail here as at San Bias and Mazatlan."

Guaymas was visited in 1850 by Captain A. H. Wilcox, of the U.S. Transport
Jnvincible, who anchored in 4J fathoms ; his remarks ou the harbour are as follows : —
" The harbour is one of the best upon the coast ; it is perfectly land-locked and pro-
tected by its numerous islands from every quarier. It,, has been so often and so well
surveyed, that it is unneetssary for me to enter into a minute description of its merits.
It is to be regretted, however, that it has not more water, from 4 to 5 faihoms being the
average depth, which is insufliciont for a ship of the line, or even a first class frigate.
We found Guaymas a dirty place, with a dirty population of about 1500 or 2000. The
houses being built of adobe witli the roofs sloping towards the interior, have a very
unfluishcd appearance, and from the harbour the town presents the appearance of having
been abandoned when half built. There aro two small piers in a ruined condition ; and
near the lauding a largo pile of eartii, suuuounted by two or three crumbling walls,
over which float)* from a lofty staff tho flag of Mexico, marks the sight of the adobe fort
knocked down by the guns of tlio Dale during the late war. There aro several wealthy
individuals in Guaymas, who monopolize the whole of the business with the interior of
Sonora, but tho mass of tho population aro in a state of wretched poverty. Ono or two
small vessels from Ban Fraucisco wore lying in tho harbour, the proprietors of which
had purcluiHod everything ju the shapo of Irosh provisions to bo obtained. Sheep in
large numbers thoy had purchased from tho interior of Sonora with the intention of
lauding them at IMoloxo, on tlio California coast, thence driving them overland to San
Francisco. FowIh, tuila,ys, duclis, goats, everything that could be purchased for one
real and sold for twenty had diHiippuaied, causing us no little dijljculty in obtaining
fresh provisions, even atconipnrutivoiy high prices. Tho water at Gnaynms is obtained
from wells, aud is slightly brackish. Excellent oysters (ire brought from tlio river
Yaqui, which omptioH into the hay about 20 iiiiKm south of tho town, and 8ol(( to tho
•hipping at n dollar a bushel ; the Mexicans, however, make no use of them,

? M

■I n

3186

GULF OF CALIFORNIA.

The time of high water at full and change of the moon at Guaymas is not very
accurately determined ; it is, however, hetween 8 and 9 a.m. The ordinary rise of
spring tides is G feet, neap tides 4 .feet. The phenomena of four tides in 24 hours has
repeatedly occurred here, as I am credibly informed. The prevailing winds in May,
June and July, are from the South-east and South-west. The thermometer during the
summer months ranges fi'om 92° to 98° Fahr., the maximum 119° ; during winter
fiom 56° to 60°, minimum 45°. Guaymas is in lat. 27° 54', long. 110' 49' 10".*

Captain Henry Trollope, R.N. gives the following directions : — " Guaymas once
having been seen cannot, with ordinary attention, be mistaken ; the whole coast is so
jremarkable that one is only at a loss to say which is the most prominent landmark ;
nevertheless, as Pajaroa island lies right before the entrance when 10 or 12 miles to
the eastward, it is a blind harbour ; a stranger without a chart might well be in doubt
as to the entrance. Cape Haro, a bold blufl' headland, jutting out duo South to sea-
ward, and rising with a wall-like clifl' 200 feet from the water, is the best mark for the
harbour ; it has 14 or 15 fathoms touching the rocks, and the entrance between
Trinidad (an island so caJlod from the distinct manner in which it is formed in three
divisions united at their base^ and Pajaros is clear and free from danger, only taking
care to give the points, particularly Punta Baja, a berth of half a cable ; the lead is quite
Bufficiont guide for going in. Secondly, the white smooth beach of Cochore, extend-
ing uninterruptedly from the Morro luglesc, at the entrance of the harbour, 12 miles to
the eastward, and terminated sudvlenly by a still more remarkable hill, called Cerro
Tordillo, or as wo termed it, Mori o Afulva, lies in such contradistinction to the extra-
ordinary mass of hills forming the peninsula, out of which the harbour of Guaymas is
hollowed like the crater of a volcano, that it is from the contrast almost equally re-
markable. Further to the northward are the remarkable peaks callad Tetas do Cabra
(goat's teats). Some have recommended these to bo made, as the prevalent wind is
from N.W. and there h certainly no advantage to bo gained by getting over on the
Cochore shore, while by making the land to the windward of cape Haro a ship will
have the prevalent breeze and current in her favour. The Tetas de Cabra are about
10 miles N.W. by W. of capo Haro ; they stand on the west shore of a largo deep
bay, which hns povcral patches of rocks and islets in it. Pajaros isle forms of itself an
excellent harbour: in fact, the space between Trinidad, Pajaros, and Morro Inglese is
equal as far as security, and superior as to depth of water, to the harbour itself ; the
advantage the latter has, is in there being a better access into the interior. The tides
are very irregular, except at full and change ; there appears to bo only one tide in the
twelve hours, but tlien llio usual interval occurs between liigli and low water. The
greatest rise and fall wo observed during 'lur stay, was 4 fout. High water 8h. a.m."

Bnaenada da Ban Franeiaoo. — Westward of cape Haro, distant about 4 miles, is capo
Arco, 970 feet high ; 8 miles beyond which is point San Antonio. The coast between
the two latter points forms a bay which is known as the Eusonada de Francisco.

f This nhiioit oxnotly n);rooi with tbe obnflrvationi of M. FiBiiunt of Ihu Frciioli covvette
I. a Daniiidi;, IHIO, who pluoflB tlio inland Alinagrito, oppoalto thi town, in lot. '27° 5U' f)0",
loug. 110" 4y' 26."

»^

1.
p i ■

TIBURON ISLAND, &c.

187

'There are several islets in this bay from 10 to 15 feet in height. On its east side is
the anchorage of Bacochibampo, sheltered from south-east winds. Here fresh-water,
fresh beef, fruit, &c. may be obtained. About one mile i\orthward of this anchorage
is the cerro of the same name, 1 1 "lO feet high.

Two and a half miles to the ea ^waid of point San Antouio is the entrance to Puerto
de San Carlos, or Escondido. This small port is complately land-locked, and affords
an excellent anchorage for small vessels, there being B and 4 fathoms water inside.

About one mile eaitwiird of point San Antonio are the remarkable peaks. Las Tetas
de Cabra, already alluded to. Two mi ' s northward of point San Antonio is a group
of small islands, known as the Algodones, the outer Venado island being about one
mile from the shore.

Ban Fedro Point. — N.Y7. by W. J W. 10^ miles from point San Antonio is a bold
rocky headland 515 feet high. To the southward of the point is a small open bay of
the same name, in which a ship may find shelter in a nortii-west wind.

San Pedro Hoiaseo is about B miles S.W. i S. fronr San Pedro point. It is a
barren rocky islet of volcanic origin, about 2 miles in leng .h parallel with the coast, and
500 to 1000 feet in height. There is a sunken rock lying off its south-east end. It
is inaccessible on every side. The approximate geographical position of its north-west
extremity is lat. 27° 5!)', long. Ill" 22'.

From San Pedro point the coast trends N.W. \ W. about 16 miles to Morro Oolorado ;
a remarkable headland of a reddish colour, 560 feet high. This part of the coast is high
and barren throughout, affording neither shelter nor anchorage. Six miles S.E. | E,
from the latter point, is a white rock 60 feet high, distant about 1^ miles from the
shore. This and three others close in-shoro are known as Las Piodras Blaucas.

Northward of Morro Colorado distant 4^^ miles is the small estero of Tastiota, at the
bottom of which fresh-water may bo obtained.

San Pedro Martir.—This islet bears from Morro Colorado W. i S. 49 miles, and
from the south end of Tiburon island S. J E., 22i^ miles. It is 1052 feet high and
Btumls nearly in midohannel. The approximate geogi'uphical position of its centre is
lat. 28" 23', long. 112" 17'.

From the entrance of Tastiota estero the coast, which is liw and sandy, trendy
westerly for about 14 miles and then north-westerly for 22 mijds to Kino point. AIJ
this part of the coast is known as the San Juan Bnutista flats.

Kino Bay. — Northward of Kino point is an opou Imy of the same name, in which
email vessels can find shelter from north-west and south-east winds. At the bottom of
this bay is the entrance to La Ornz lagoon.

Peiioan Zaiand. — About 2| miles N.N.W. from Ki'40 point is a small island kuowo
as Pelican, lying closu to the mainland : it is 540 feet in height. Its approximate
geographical position is lat. 28° 48' 80", long. 111° 57'.

TIBUAON I8I.ANO. — 'j'he souUi-east end of Tiburon island bears W. by 3. J S,
16 miicH from Pelican island. Tiburon Ih 2!) miles long, H. by E. and N. by W., and
10,1 miles wide; it is high and rugged, its peaks varying in height from 1000 to 2500
feet. It is separated from the main land by ft narrow intricate chauuel, knqvvn us E\
luferuillo, about 2 miles wide.

i'!

188

GULP OP CALIFORNIA.

Off the northrwest side of the island is a svall ensenada, aaiped Fresh Water bay.
Here ships may find shelter from sonth.-east winds^

Off the southera end of Tibaron island, abpat 1| miles distant, is a small barren
island abont one mile in length and 800 feet high, which is named Turner island.
Between it and Tiburon is a small rocky islet, 150 fe^t high, leaving a clear channel
8 cables wide between the two last. A dangerous rock, awash at high water, lies
6 cables B.S. W. f W. irom ibis rocky islet.

Cap* T«pepa, 8 miles N.N.W. i W. from the northern end of Tiburon island, is a
bold headland, 1857 feet high. It forms the north side of the entrance to El
Infemillo channel.

Fatea zaiand Me^ S. by W. ^ W. 5^ miles from cape Tepopa. It is small and low
except on the north-west side, where it rises in a conical bill to the height of 810 feet.
It is nearly white from the deposits of guano and entirely barren. Its approximate
geographical position is lat. 29° 16' 80", long, 112° 26' 80". Th£re is a tolerable
anchorage, in a north-west wind, on tbe southern side, Iq 6 fathoms, sandy bottom, a
quarter of a mile from the beach. Spring tides rise 10 feet, neap 7 feet.

From cape Tepopa the coast trends N.W, f N. 89 miles to cape Lobos ; it is low
and sandy, the coast-range rising to an elevation pf 600 to 2800 fe^t a short distance
inland.

pimt ^<^pf, off which are some sunken rocks, is the e^treniity of a rocky promontory
the summit of which is 11 BO feet in height. Immediately to tbe south-eastward of the
cape is the anchorage of Libert^d, where a vessel will be well sheltered from north-west
winds. This anchorage is in 8 or 9 fathoms water about half a mile from the head of
the bay. Spring tides rise about 12 feet, neaps 9 feet,

CapeTapeea is 800 feet high and of a reddish colour. When first seen from north-
ward it appears as an island. Another higher hill, of 640 feet, just to the northward
of the cape, of a dark red colour on a yellow bed, is an excellent guide to the anchorage
in Tepoca bay to the southward of tbe cape. The extreme western point of the bay is
low and rocky, with a reef covered at high water, extending off a short distance to tbe
southward. Qood anchorage may be found inside this point, in 5 or fathoms at low
water, well sheltered in a north-west wind. Spring tides rise about 15 Coet and neaps
about 12 feet.

About 18 miles N.W. by "S. from cape Tepoca is the entrance to San Ignacio river,
in lat. 80° 86', This river only breaks through the sand- bar at its mouth during the
rainy season, but frosh-water may be obtained at all times just beyond the sand-hills.
Thence to the north-westwaril the coast is of less elevation and consists, as fur as Shoal
point, of low sand-hills, and )vith the eiiicoption of some Iqw stunted buslujs, is entirely
destitute of vegetation,

acorga xaiand, iu lilt. 81° 0' 80", long. 118" W, is merely a barren rpck, 206 fee
high. Rocks extend about 1^ miles to the northward and westward of the islet,
some of which are above water and others awash at low watfir.

A tolerable anchorage in a south-east wind may be found on the northern side of the
islet, off a small sand-beach covered at high w^ter, lyhiob connects the islet with the
pearest rook.

COLORADO RIVEK.

189

The coast northward of George island carves roaod in a westerly direatlon and forms
an open bay, known as George bay, off the shores of which shoals extend a con-
siderable distance, almost filling the bay. The whole coast thence southward, as far
as cape Tepoca, is fronted by shoal water to the distance of 1^ to 2 miles from the
sandy beach.

Soekyro|«t, a low black point 24 miles N.W. J W. from George island, forms the
eastern limit of a small open bay of the san)e name. About 5 miles westward of the
point is a headland 408 feet high, known as Rocky bluff, which forms the western limit
of Rocky bay. Westward of this bluff is an extensive open bay, named Adair bay,
which is BO full of dangerous shoals as to be nnnavigable by the smallest class of
coasters.

Shoal Point, a low rocky point distant about 40 miles W. ^ N. from Rocky point, is
on the eastern side of the entrance to Colorado river.

Fort z«ab«i. — Above Shoal point there is a channel, with 2 to 5 fathoms water in it
at low water, as far as the slough of port Isabel, which is situated on the eastern side
of the river's mouth. The only safe guide is the lead, as the flats and shoals are
constantly shifting.

Tides. — The tide runs with great strength at the foil and change of the moon, at
times as much aa 6 miles an hour. It is high water at port Isabel (F. & C.) at
2h. 80m., and an hour earlier at Shoal point. Spring tides in summer rise 82 feet,
in winter 28 feet.

'Jl

'■ U

OOLOBASO BTimK. — This river, now in United States territory (except near the
mouth), rises on the western slopes of the Sweetwater mountains and the Sierra de las
Grullas, between latitudes 40° and 44°, It divides the State of California from the
territory of Arizona, Its length from the upper sources of its tributaries is about
1500 miles, — the country in its vicinity being inhabited chiefly by Indians. It has but
little depth, especially in the dry season ; its banks, also, are so low that after heavy
rains and the melting of the snow on the hills at itq sources its waters overflow and
inundate the flat country through which it passes. Its month, at the head of the gulf,
is nearly 6 miles wide and divided into three channels by two small islands, named
Montague and Gore islands. The main channel is eastward of the islands ; it is
narrow aud dangerous and has only 5 or 6 feet water in it. Within the river are many
banks dry at low tide. Near the mouth there is no vegetation, but higher up, the
shores are thickly lined with rushes, willows, &c., and the interior country is clad with
a coarse sharp grass.

At about 70 miles in direct distance from its entrance the Colorado receives the
Rio Gila, which falls into it from the eastward, after it is increased in volume by the
Rio de la Ascencion, formed again by the junction of the ll'os Verde and Salado. All
these rivers rise in the branches of the Sierra Madre, have but little depth, and during
the rainy season overflow their banks. The country in their vicinity is very fertile,
and furnishes abundant evidence of the existence of gold ; it is inhabited by Yunms,
Axuas, Coconiaricopas, Apaches and other Indian tribes, in number about 20,000.

On the southern side of the, junction of the Colorado and Gila rivers is Arizona citji

: I

140

GULP OF CALIFORNU.

and on the northern side is fort Ynma, the first station of the Colorado Steam Naviga-
tion Company. At this place the sammers are intensely hot (rising to 126" Fahr. in the
shade) ; hat the winters are mild, the thermometer never registering below 84° Fahr. ;
there is scarcely any rain.

The Colorado is navigable for small steamers and barges drawing under 2 feet, as far
as Colville, in lat. 86° 18', a distance of about 600 miles from the river's month.
Throughout this extent it varies in \nith. from a half to 1^ miles, and its depth aver-
ages 4 to 8 feet ; there are no serious obstructions from rapids or other causes.

Above Colville the Colorado runs through a wonderful natural phenomenon, the
Grand or Black Canon, a gorge 8 to 10 miles in length. Through this, it is said, the
river flows with a deep current, and has an average width of 200 feet. The water is
smooth and unbroken, and no rocks obstruct the passage. A large portion of the
distance perpendicular walls rise to the height of 1000 feet on either side, in some
places almost shutting out the light of day, and awaking in the mind of the voyager,
the most profound admiration and awe. In solemn grandeur and native sublimity, it is
said, no spot on earth equals the Black Canon of the Rio Colorado.

Tides. — At Shoal point, near the entrance of the Bio Colorado, the tides rise 25 to
80 feet at springs and 16 to 20 feet at neaps : high water full and change at Ih. 80m.
The tidal currents are very strong, running 5 or 6 knots per hour, or oven more. At
about 40 miles from the river the tidal motion ceases entirely.

Captain Wilcox, U.S. Navy, 1850, gives the following description of Colorado
river: — "We landed on the 25th, both on Montague island and the main, and found
the soil clay detritus, and the vegetation scanty. The two inlands situated in the
mouth of the river, Montague and Gore, are low, flat and sandy. They are separated
by a channel about one mile in width, and extremely shallow. They are evidently
formed by the accumulation of the sand and detritus from the river, and are gi'adually
increasing in size. We commenced the survey of the river upon the 2Sth, which we
continued from day to day as we ascended. On the 27th, by taking advantage of the
tide, we had succeeded in reaching Uuwin point, off which we anchored. The log gave
ns at this point a current at ebb tide of ii miles per hour, which we found to be the
average velocity, except at spring tides, when it is much increased.

On the 28th we left our anchorage at 7h. a.m., and beat up with the flood tide until
about 9h., when we grounded off Charles point. The soundings had been from 1^ to
8j fathoms. At this point we found the water devoid of any brackish taste, but ex-
tremely muddy, resembling iu its character that of the Mississippi river. We continued
daily up the river, sounding the channel at low water, and marking it by stakes,
starting with the flood tide and floating with it until the i.bb set in, when wo anchored
and went on shore to continue the survey. The shores of the river (here from 2 to
4 miles wide) continue of the same character, the grass growing somewhat more thickly
as wo ascended, however, and upon Grequhithe point, off which we anchored upon the
1st of January, wo found a thick growth of aitemkiu. We had experienced no little
difficulty in crossing from CharloH point to Gretuhithe point ; the channel is extremely
narrow, and nearly at right angles to the direction of the river, and we had twice been
$wept from it by the tide, and grounded upon the bank above. Upon the 1st, however,

COLORADO RIVER.

141

we were favonred with a strong breeze, taking advantage of which we soon crossed and
anchored in the channel upon the southern side. We landed upon Greenhithe point,
(formed by two small indentations in the crumbling clayey bank,) and found the land
on the south bank to be a perfectly level plain (the soil clay detritus), extending to
the south and west for miles, and intersected by numerous sloughs, apparently filled
by every spring tide. The river westward is bounded by the high hills of the Lower
California chain, at the distance apparently of 15 or 20 miles. Trunks and limbs of
large trees, some recently deposited, others in an advanced state of decay, are thickly
scattered about, evidently left by the fresuets. The river bank is abrupt, and about
20 feet in height; the water is gradually undermining it, and large pieces are con-
tinually dropping off, falling into the water with a sound as loud and not unlike the
distant report ef a musket. We discovered two new islands in the reach above Green-
hithe point ; they are low and sandy, separated by a small channel and covered with
coarse grass ; they have undoubtedly been formed within a few years. The bed of the
river is filled with (]iuickfiand, and its current at the time of spring tides is so strong
that the channel is continually changing. I named these islands Gull and Pelican
respectively, from the numerous flocks of these birds continually hovering or afloat in
their vicinity. We discovered the remains of a rude Indian hut near the shore, and
observed many tracks of horses in th« vicinity. During the night of the 1st the vessel
grounding sit ebb tide, s>vung around upon her heel, and thumping violently was
carried by the tide (draging her anchor) some 2 or 8 miles, grounding finally upon
the shoal of Gull island; at flood tide sail was made on her as soon as she floated, and
we succeeded in getting her back into the channel. As the vessel grounded at every
ebb tide, and on the return of the water was violently swung around, thumping on her
bottom, and swinging on her anchor, I began to see that it would be neither prudent,
nor in fact possible, to ascend the river much higher, and we accordingly commenced
making preparation for a boating expedition ; the tides were now on the increase and
on the 2nd I observed, with the log, the velocity of the current at ebb tide to be
6i miles per hour. We observed on the 2nd, for tiro first time, the singular phenom-
enon of the tide coming in, in a bore or wave, while tlie ebb was still rushing past the
vessel towards the Gulf. On looking in the direction of Greenhithe point, a bank of
water some 4 feet in height, extending clear across the river, was seen approaching
us with considerable velocity ; it moved steadily onward, occasioualiy breaking as it
rushed over the shoals of Gull and Pelican islands ; passing the vessel, which it
swung around on its course, it continued up the river. This phenomenon was of daily
occurrence until about the time of neap tides, and shows the truth of Hardy's assertion,
that "there is no sueh thing as slack-tvater in the river Colorado." I took the whale
boat on the afternoon of the 2nd and proceeded up the river with the flood-tide ;
rounding Howard point, {so called by Hardy) wo found ourselves in a broad but shallow
bay about 4 miles in width. At the north-east and north-west extremities we found
the two branches of the river, the former of which he mistook for the Gila; this is in
fact the main channel of the river, the other being merely a slough which divides the
river, about a mile from its entrance, into two branches, one of which terminates in a
aipall lagoou about 4 miles from its mouth, the other communicating with the rivev

!i ;J1

GULF OF CALIFOMU.

above. As ther^ is ndt water enoagh in either of these branches to tfoat & whale boat'
at low tide, it is evident that the river must have altered entirely since Lient. Hardy's
visit, or that he never ascended it as he says be did with tbe Brijd, a schooner of
25 tons. We Aoanded right across the' bay and found a depth of 2^ to 7 feet. As
tbe schooner was drawing 8 feet* this settled the question as to her navigating the
Colorado above this point/'

After somd interesting remai'ks apon tbe Indians who inhabit tbe Country bordering
ott the rrver. Captain Wilcox continues " The bar at the mouth Of tbe Colorado is
about 10, possibly 16 miled in width ; the soundings upon it are from 10 feet to
4 fathoms; it is a very loose, muddy bottom, and with a' stiff bi'eeze a vessel could
force her way over it, even if drawing a f6ot or more thafr the lead would indicate.
The distance from tbe junction of the Gilai and Colorado to tbe motftb of the latter, by
watet, is about 104 miles, owing to the many bends of tbe river, though the difference
of latitu'de is biit little inbre than half that distance.

The navigation of the gulf of California presents none of those difficulties which we
bad been led to anticipate. The wind we found invariably from the north-west,
Whicb, at this season of tbe year, is its prevailing direction ; it is only during tbe
months of Jan'e, July, and August that the gales from the south-east are prevalent ;
except in Wh^le channel we noticed none of the strong Carreats so frequently men-
tioned as eitstiug in the Gulf.'

It would be difficult to mistake th« entrance to the Go'lotiido, it being in fact the
heia^ of the gulf, which gradually narrows froin 40 to 8 miles when it is joined by tbe
liVer^, whose tufbtd stfeam di&'Coloui's the gnlf for many miles to the southward, in
BdtmdiDgs of 12 and 14 fathoms. On the Sonora coast,' bo^vevcr, exists an indentation
some 15 or 20 miles in depkh, called by Hardy, Adair bay; the shoals of this can he
seen ffom the mast-head, a view from which would prevent one falling into the error
which we did of sifpporing it a nrouth of the Colorado. The angle at the junction of
ther sfongh and the main river is culled Arnold point, and from the mouth of the river
(after crossing the bar) to this point, the channel varies in depth from 15 to 80 feet,
at ordinary high tide, ami muy, as we have practically demonstrated, be afwsewded by a
vessel having a dramght of 8 or 9 feet, by taking advantage of the flood, which has a
velocity of fronr 3 to 5 miles per hour. It is impossible to sail up, however, for
although the river varies in width from 8 miles to- 600 yards', tbe channel is narrow
and the navigation elsewhere obstructed by the numerous sand bars. Tbe proper
method, after passing Gore and Montagae islands through tbe western channel of the
river, iff that which we adopted, to drift with the flood tide, keeping close to the highest
bank, sounding contioually, and anchoring before the time of high water; in this way
we progresued slowly but steadily, making, perhaps, 4 or 5 miles per day, uutil we
arrived at the point where we finally landed tbe stores, and whieh I have named
Invincible point.

Above Arnold point tbe riVer is very circttitouff, the swell of the tide rapidly decreases,
the channel becomes narrow, and the water has less depth. At this season, therefore,
Arnold point may be considered the head of navigation for vessels of 9 feet draught ;
above this point we found always from 8 to 16 hei of watev i» the channel^ whoa»

COLORADO RIVEH.

143

width varir^ from 60 > 800 ytrds; and as the river at thdt time was at its lowest
stage, I ha^ d no hesitation in saying that it may be navigated at any season of the year
by a steam-boat 6f 18 to 20 feeb beam, drawing 2^ to 8 feet of water. A small steru-
wheel boat, with a powerful engine and thi^ik bottonr, I would respectfully suggest to
be a proper deseription of vessel for this navigation, where a strong cmreui has to be
contended with, and the channel (somewhat obstracted b small snags and sawyers,)
is quite narrow in several places. At the present season (January, February, and
March,) supplies from vessels arriving from the Galf may be lauded near Arnold point,
upon the eastern bank, and a road being made from the post (a work of little difficulty
over a level sandy plain) they nright be transported by waggons across in three days.
It would be preferabie, however^ to establish a depot by anchoring a hulk near Charles
point, laden with storesy from which a small steam-boat could can7 more to the post
in 24 hours than a hundred waggons eould transport in a week. Either of these
methods would be far preferable to the present slow, laborious and uncertain mode of
supplying by waggons and pack ranles across the desert from San Diego.

The time of high water at full and change at Arnold point is 8h. 20m. p.'M., and the
rise of ordiAmry spring tid«s about 12 feet ;• but during the >a«on of freshets the river
throughout its extent (judging from the statement of the iuciians and the iodicatioDS'
upon the banks)' is at least 15 feet h^her thna at the tim« of otrr visit, and the velocity
of the corrent whicb, above the efiFect of tbe tide, was from' 1 to 3 mile" an hour, iff
nearly doubled ; the action of the tide ceases about 40 miles from the month ; the
banks of the river' are k>w, fliat, and cither sandy or of cmmbling elay which appears to
have been deposited in successive strata. Near the mouth there is no vegetation, but
higher up the shores are thickly lined with eane, rushes, small willows, acacia and
cotton wood, and the country iA tho interior covered with a coarse sharp grass.
Invindble point is in lat.- 81° 50* 26", tong. 114° 46' 43".

The large shoal south of the point is an island, except at spring tides, and is gradually
increasing in size and height."')'

WBtaTiiHii AZDB OV ^ttB ol^Zir.' — The doast on' the western side Of the entrance
of Colorado' rrver as far as poiat San Felipe, in about lat. 31° 2 J', consists of low plai' i
rising gradually towtn-ds a range of mountains, 1600 to 2006 feet high, several miles
inland.- Mud flats aad shoals extend nearly to the Sonora shore, having a narrow
channel, with 2 to 6 fathoms water, between the flats and the mainland. Southward
of point San Felipe,- which rises to a height of 600 feet, is the small bay of the same
name,- in' which sonw shelter can be lojnd in a north-west wind.

W. by S. } S. from point Felipe is the mountain of Calamahae, 9180 feet high,

:!|

* Sftn Fmucibco raerohants are much interested to secure tbe trade of the Upper Golorado. whicli-
opena a navigable route to GolviUe, 420 miles from Salt Lake, and is fast acquiring commercial
impoftaAffe. Two different companies, eieh owning tliree steamers are engaged in a brisk business.
Cargo for tlie Colorado river is delivered from San Francisco at fort Isabel', at the head of the Gulf
of Calitornia, where it is taken- up by the small steamers aud carried to its different points ef desti-
nation.

Between Colville and Salt Lake is a good waggon road, along which there are no less than fbrty^
two thriving townrand villagn. Nev York Journal of Gommeree, April a4tb, 1€G7'.

144

GULF OF CALIFORNIA.

said to be the highest in Lower Culifornia. It is nearly white on the top and jagged
in appearance.

conaae Rook bears N.E. by E. from point San Felipe, distant 19 miles. It is
small, 286 feet high and nearly white, and is sometimes called Ship rock from its
resemblance to a ship under saih There are several rocks extending nearly half a
mile from it in a south-westerly direction.

The coast from point San Felipe to abreast the island of San Luis, in lat. 29° 58',
trends about S.S.E. ^ E., and is low and sandy the whole distance, the coast-range
rising to a height of several htindred feet a few miles in the interior. The water is
shoal, there being from 12 to 15 fathoms 5 ur 6 miles from the shore.

Ban ZMi» Island, distant about 2^ miles from the coast, which is here low and
sandy, is of volcanic origin. Its highesf peak is 729 feet. A sand spit extends nearly
a mile from the southern end of the island, leaving a safe passage of a mile and a half
between it and the mainland. Good anchorage for either of the prevailing winds may
be found here; on the southern side of the sand-spit for a north-west wind, and on the
northern side for a south-east wind.

About 2 cables from the northern end of Sa'n Luis, and connected with it by a
reef covered at high water, is the high rocky islet of Cantada. There are several
rocks covered at high water in this vicinity. To the north-westward of these are
three small islets, 800 to 600 feet high, lying parallel to the coast and distant from
it about 3 or 4 miles.

Btta ZiTti# Ooniaies Bay/ to the southward of ^n Lais island, affords good anchorage
during south-east winds but is open to northerly winds. Its eastern limit is formed
by Final point, from which San Luis island bears^N.W. distant 12 miles.

From point Final to point Eemedlos, in about lat. 29* 15', the trend of the coast is
S.E. by E. i E. and the distance about 46 miles. All this part of the coast is high,
rocky, and precipitous, affording uo shelter or anchorage the entire distance. Remedies
point is low and sandy,' with tbtj high coast range a short distance back.

ANOBi. DB X.& OVABDIA. — Off this puit of the coast is the great island of Ange-
les, or Angel de la Guardia. It extends 40 miles parallel with the coast, and is high,
rocky, and perfectly barren. The whole western side is inaccessible and without
anchorage ; but on the eastern side there are several open bays where anchorage may
be found in north-west winds. Off its northern end are several small islands, the
largest of which is known as Mejia island.

The channel between Augeles island and the mainland is known as Ballenas, or
Whale channel. The tide seta through here at times with great force. A current of
at least 3 knots per hour has been experienced.

rnerto Befagio. — Between Angeles and Mojiu islands is a fine harbour called Puerto
Refugio, in which vessels may anchor, sheltered from every wind. AboUt 1} miles
south-westward of the entrance to this harbour is a remarkable white rock l')7 feet
high, known as the Sail rock. To enter the harbour from the westward it is nt essary
to pass to the northward of Sail rock, as there are several dangerous rocks, c )veTed
and awash at high water, bearing N.E. by E., distant rather more than a mile from
Sail rock, and 4 cables from the shore. There are also rocks lying off the southern
extremity of Mejia island, about a cable from the cliffs.

ANGELES AND SAN RAFAEL BAYS.

The approximate geographical position of the south-east point of Mejia island is
lat. 29' 33' 7", long. 113° 82'.*

B«in«dle« Bay, southward of Rcmedios point, affords shelter during north-west winds.
The best anchorage is in 10 fathoms a third of a mile from the beach, off a red hill
200 feet high.

AasaUs Bay, 22 miles S.E. from Remcdius point, is about 6 miles wide at the
entrance and 4 to 5 miles deep. It is fronted by no less than fifteen islets, the largest
of which, Smith island,is nearly 4 miles in length and one mile in width. This island ia
high, flat-topped, its greatest altitude being 15r>0feet.

To enter Angeles bay from northward, follow the coast, passing between it and
Smith island, keeping about a mile from the shore, until the ^priug is opened, to the
southward of the sand-spit mentioned below.

To enter the baj from southward, it is better to follow the coast, passing in between
the first island oia the mainland.

On the western side of the bay is a small cove formed by a Sand-spit extending to
southward and eastward. Here excellent anchorage may be found, in 7 or 8 fathoms
water, sheltered from all winds. Spring tides riso about 12 feet in this bay.

Fresh-water may be obtained from the springs near the anchorage. These springs
are at the foot of a high round-topped mountain, 3420 feet in height, and are marked
by reeds and bushes in their vicinity.

x>aa Animas Bay,' {be next bay to the south-eastward, is about 6 miles deep, and
affords good anchorage for either of the prevailing winds. Its entrance lies between two
headlands, the eastern of which is known as cape Las Animas.

Three miles southward of this last-named cape are two dangerous rocks known
as Barnabe rocks. They are rather more than half a mile from the shore, and have
but 2 feet on them at low water. There is a tolerable anchorage southward of the reef
which unites them to the shore.

San Bafael Bay.' — From cape Las Animas the coast trends southerly about 20 miles
and then curves to the eastward, forming the open bay of San Rafael. The eastern
termination of this bay is point San Francisquito, which is low and rocky.

San aabrtal Point, aibout 4 miles eastward of point Francisquito, is low, with high
volcanic hills just behind it. It is distant 30 miles S.E. i E. from cape Las Animas.

Immediately to the westward of San Gabriel point is the fine bay of San Francisquito,
in which a vessel may find shelter from either north-west or southeast winds.

Islands of Ban Lorenzo, Eateban, &c. — Off the part of the coast just described lie
the islands of San Lorenzo, Sal-si-puciles, Isla Raza, and Ishi Partida. The passage
between these islands and the mainland is known us the Sul-si-puedes channel.

San Lorenzo, the southernmost and largest of these islands, extends 12 miles W.N.W.
and E. S.E. It is between 1^ ""<! ^5 nuUm in width, and, like most of the other
islands of the guflf, is" high ami barren. It is of volcanic origin, and is entirely destitute

n
I?

• 1

I 1

' 1

^f^'

* A plan of Puerto Refugio is published on the Adrairnlty chart No. 2248, edition 1879, to whiohf
we refer our readers.

I4d

aVhV OF CALIFORNIA.

of vegetation. Tlio 'lighest peak, near the southern end of tlie ishmd, has an eleva-
tion of 1592 feet. About 2i miles from its northern end is a narrow boat-passage
through the island.

A mile northward of San Lorenzo is the small island of Sdf-si'-piiaks, about I^ miles
long, W.N.W. and E.S.E., aud not more than half a mile across in its widest pai't.
Tho highest peak is 37G feot. There are several detacliod rocks near the islaiid.

There is a tolerable auchornge under the northern end of San Lorenzo, in a south-
east wind.

hla lund is about 100 feet in gi'oatest height. It lies T) miles N. by W. | W.
from Sal-si-puc(les, aud is nearly Avhite from the deposit of f,'uano on it. There is a
small white rock about 1^ luiloi! north-westward of tho i«Iii.nd, and another awash
between the two.

Fiv , miles north-westward of IsTa Raza is a small island known as Ida Partida,
from the fact that at a distance it has the appearance of being two islands. It is
about 1\ miles long, nearly north and south, and is formed of two peats about
•100 feet high, joined by a low and imiTow strip of land. Two niilos northward of this
island is a rock about 175 feet high, with a roof making off to i\w northward and east-
ward about a mile, and ending in a rock 2 feet above water at low tide.

About 10 miles E.N.E.-ward of San Lorenzo island is tho island of Salt Estebait,
about 4| miles long and 3 miles wide. It is from 800 to 1700 feet high, and is rocbj
and barren. There arc two tolerable anchorages off its southern end on either side
of a low sand-spit.

San Fodro Martir island, already mentioned on page 137, lies E. J K. SO miles fn>ni
San Gabriel point. It is a barren triangular rock less than 2 miles m extent, the
highest part having an altitude of 1052 feet. There are three small iskta off its
southern ond, the smallest being half a mile distant.

The coast, from San Gabriel point to capo San Miguel, in lat. 28° 12', « distance of
1'1;| miles, is gouerally low, being formed of low bluffs and sand-boaches, the ecK.si
rMgo being a short distance inland. A inilo to the southward of San (iabriol point is
tbe small open bay known as Santa Teresa bay, v.hore oxoellcnt anchorage iu north
west winds may be found in 7 or R fathoms a third of a mile from tbe beach.

c»v« San mxisuai is a bold rocky blulf, iT-i feet high, with several ontlying rock? a
she L distance eastward of it. Southward o*. this ciipo is an o.xcelJent anchorage iu
north-westerly winds, iu 7 or 8 fathoms, half a mile fioiii tho small sand-beach, a milo
inside tho cape.

Trintdad Point, about 21 miles S. by E, ;'; E. fronj capo San JMigiiel, is a moder-
ately lugli blulV, with a hill 137 feet high just behind it. Close to tho uorthwiwd of this
point is tho open bay of Sati Carlos, on the novlhern side of which is San Curios point.
This latter point is low, with a small open buy northward of it, known aa San Jaan
Bautista bay.

Onv virfsenea, 200 feot high, is distant about 27 miles 'A.iL b' T. J E. from
Trinidad point. Tho intervening coast is low, the mouutain-range be .■,• several miles
in tlie interior. About 11 miles westward from capo Virgenes is Santa Anna poiut,
b(«youd which is an open bay of the uauic name, where shelter may be found iu a uuuUi-

SAX MABCOS ISLAND, PURGATORIO, Ac.

147

east wind. A suiiiU fiosli-wuter creek eiuptios into the sea hero; it may be recognised
by the grass and trees on its banks.

From 12 to 11 miles inland iiro tlie three remarkablo mountains known as Las Tres
Virgcnes, the highest having an altitiido of (')517 foot, lietwcon the Yirgcnos and tho
coast is Santa Miina mountain, iJiOi? loot high.

From caie Yirgenes the coast trends south-easterly to abreast San Marcos island
and then curvt's to the eastward, ter.i'nating in point Chivato, in lat. '27" 5',

San ns.ircod Island lios 2.1 to li.,;lesolV this part of tho coast, its contro being
in about lit. 27° I'd', long. 112" 2'. It is about j") miles long, nearly parallel with tho
coast, and is from 1 to 2.^ miles wide. The highest peak has an altitude of 891 feet.
Lobos rock, 20 iwi high, lies half a mile ofl' the south end of tho ishiiid, and a reef,
with one fathom water on it, extends a mile farther to tho southward, leaving a clear
and safe channel of 5 and G fathoms, about a mile wide, between the island and tho
mainland. llucks above water extuud about a mile northward from the north end of
the island.

Tliere is exfellont anchorage for small vessels under tho south end of San Marcos
island. Fresli- water may be obtained. ,\n excellent quality of gypsum is found hero
in large (piaiititios.

In the vicinity of San Marcos i-;lanil is a pearl fishery which in former times was
fished with eoiisiilerablo success, ()p^)^lsi^o the island, or in the vicinity of cape Sau
]\r,ircos (wliicli capo is in latitude about 27 28 j, and at tho distance of two leagues
trom the co.ist, are what reumins of the mission of San Ignatio, establiuhed in the
year 172,->.

Ban Lucaa Covo. — The entrance to San Lucas cove lies nearly n)iles W. by S.
from tlie northern end of Sau Marcos island. It aftbrds excellent anchorage in all
winds for vessels di'awing 7 or H feet.

Tortuga iMand.— About 11 miles N.E. by N. from the north end of Kan Marcos
island, is the highest peak of Tortuga. This island is about 2 miles long, oast aud
west, and its highest peak is 1210 feet.

Santa Aguoda Toint lies N.W. by W. i W. H miles from the north end of San
Marcos island. It is low, with a small lock 10 feel above water, lying half a niilo
northward of it. Santa Maria covo is distant about 10} mih:s N'.W. { N. from this
point.

There aro several canons along the coast, known as I'rovidencia, Purgatorio, Solo-
dad, and Santa Uosalia, and extensive copper-mines at each one a few miles from tho
coast. Sandi Maria cove all'ords shelter "n nortli-west winds, but is open to tin; south-
easters.

jPur;iatorlo.--This (loit is in hit. 27" 2!C, and is disiiuil about 20 miles S.W. by W.
from Tortuga island. It is an open roadstead, and in winter, which is tho best season
to visit it, vessels anchor in about fathoms water, bottom of conrso sand. Thero
nro no inhabilants, the port being sinijly a depot for the copper (uo which is extracted
in great abundanci from tho copper mines already alluded to. Water is tho only
commoility obtainable here, but it is necessary to search for it about milea in the

lulurior.

u»

GULF OF CALIFORNIA.

Santa ln«z Point, 2 miles southward of Chivato point, is like the latter low and
sandy. About 2 miles distant from it i.s the largest of a small gi'oup called the Santa
Inez ialandg. These islands extend about 2 miles, nearly north and south. They are
Burrounded by shoals and sunken rocks, leaving a narrow but safe pasiage between
them and Santa Inez point, where a ship may anchor and find sheltor in north-west
winds. Southward of this group of islands is the bay of Santa Inez.

KUXiEOB or coivcxiFCXOXV BAT. — The entrance to this extensive bay, in about
lat. 26° 53', long. Ill" 50', is between Gallita and Concepcion points, and is rather
less than 2 miles in width; it faces the north. In nearly midway of the entrance
points are some rocks with deep water close to them ; on account of which care is
required when running in. The bay extends south-east about 22 miles and varies in
width from 2 to G miles. There are numerous smuU islands scattered over its surface,
and several small harbours where vessels may anchor sheltered from every wiiul.

Near the bottom of the bay, on the west side, is a remarkable well of fresh-water,
which rises and falls with the tide.

»Kuiese. — The anchorage off Mulege is about 10 miles southward from Santa Inez
point, and as little to the northward of Sombrcrito rock ; it is in 9 or 10 fathoms, half
a mile from tli« beach. Sonibrerito rock, which is 119 feet high, is at the northern
entrance of the smnll Rio Santa Rosalia, on the banks of which, 2 miles from the sea,
is the village of Mulege. Behind Sombrerito a short distance is a high hill of a
reddish colour, known as Colorado mountain, 880 feet high.

The entrance to the river is narrow and shallow, with several rocks in the channel
covered at high water. There are never more than 9 feet at the mouth at high water.
The tide rises 5 feet.

In standing in for the anc'.orago off Mulege, do not bring Sombrerito to the west-
ward of S.W., as there is much foul gi'ouud between that rock and Gallita point.

Mulege contains from 800 to 1000 inhabitants. Wood, water, and excrllont fresh
beef may bo obtained at all times, and several varieties of vegetables and fruits in their
season. There are several fine pirdena on the bat'ks of the river, and a (^eat deal of
enterprise is shown by the inhabitants.

In reference to Santa Rosalii do Mulogo, Lieutenant Hardy R.N., 182G, says :—
" Being abreast Sombrerito, with the wind easterly, we bore up, and stood directly for
the coast, with our bond about a quarter of a point to the southward of that hill, in
order to avoid a reef of rocks that riniH off from it for some distance. When within
150 yards from the shore, Stmibrerito then bearing oil' us N.N.W., and being in-shoro
of the roof, we hauled up, and stood for the centre of the hill, till within H5 yards
of it, when we dropped our anclmr, and run out warps to the shore on both sides
of u«, to prevent the vessel from cither drifting or swinging, for which there ia no
room.

The water on the bar is so shallow, that wo touched twice in going over it ; but as
it was composed of only soft sand, the vessel received no injury, although it blew
fresh from the eastward, with a heavy swell on the shore. In the situation where wo
ultimntoly moored, there are 3 fathoms close by the hill, and it is well sholterod
from wind and sea.

►

MULEOE OR CONCEPCION BAY.

149

There is a small rivulet here, extending above the mission, wliich is at the distance
of 2 leagues from the coast. From the sea, the hill of Sombrerito hides all appearance
of the ravine ; but from the shore, the date, olive, and peach-trees, as well as planta-
tions of vines and maize, present a cheerful show of verdure by no means common in
Lower California. About the distance of a league frouj the mouth of the rivulet, tho
water is fresh, aud I took advantage of it to refill our empty casks."*

The mission of Santa Rosalia de ilulogo was established in tho year 1700 by the
Marquis do Villa Puente, as it is supposed, and its distance from Loreto is about
45 leagues. It produces wine, spirits, and soap, which are exported chiefly from tho
capital ; besides grapes, dates, figs, and olives, all of good quality. These form the
principal branches of its commerce.

About G or 8 leagues from Mulege, at some distance from tho shore side, is the
mission of La Madalena, established about tho same period as tho former ; but by
whom is not known. Its productions are tho same as those of Mulege ; but tho
quality of the spirits which are made from the mczcal, growing wild about tho moun-
tains in its neigh'^ourhood, is said to be tho best of any made in Lower California. Ita
population is about equal to that of Loreto.

From Concepcion point to Santa Teresa point the trend of tho coast is about
S.E. by E. 20 miles. The latter point is low and rocky, with many outlying rocks in
its vicinity. Thence to Pu.'pito point tho coast trends south-easterly for 12 miles and
forms a large open bay, known as San Nicolas bay. The land about this bay is low,
the coast range being farther inland tliau to the southward. Abreast this bay and
distant 6 miles N. by W. from Pulpito point is the small islaud of llilu/oiiso, 887 feet
high, a mere barren rock.

Fuipito PC .nt, so called fruni its imagined resemblance to a pulpit, is a bold headland
470 feet high, aud when first seen from the southward appears like an island, the land
connecting with the coast-range being low. To tho southward of this point is an ex-
cellent anchorage, in 5 or fathoms, half a mile from the beach, where a ship is well
sheltered from north-west winds.

Mangle Point, about 15 miles S.S.E. } E. from Pulpito point, is a moderately high
bluff, with dill's of variegated colour, 200 to SOO feet higli, to tho northward. Between
these two hcadlauds are several bays, the largest of which is San Basilio, a few miles to

• It appears from the fullowiiiR that laeut. Iliirdy oximricncf-il aoiiio difflciiUy in loaviiiR tlio
liarbour of tl)c mission of Mulrnc " Not Imvi' ;; hccii ciiciu'ssfijl in my siurci'i fordivors, I dctt-rmiuoil
to prococil to Hra. Tlio wiinl wan Rtill di 'nl itpon tlio alioro ; niiil iisi it wiis not poHHibIn to attempt
taking tlio vcsatil out tlii'uiigli tliu channel. wiMioiit lur hning iui;vitahly drivtm ou to the boach, I
Rent tiio biiRl alioad with a rope, and we t<ueccoded in towing the /fn^'ft tiiningh the midst of the
rooltH, wiiieli were pcifeetly distinRuiHli'ililci at iiit< rviils hy tho lieiive iind fall of the waves, which
enalded uh to avoid tliem. llaviuf^ (>ol fiiirly outride of them, we eliippnd on Hail, shaped our coiirBe
Blunt;; "hare, nud in two hour* time went tlirongh tlio pintitage formed on the left by tiiu low point of
Santa Inez, and on the ri^fht by the iuiand iiiimi'd ufter the finnic saiiil, carrying 4 and .'> fathoniR
water, llitving iloiiblid the point, we c.inio to imohor oii tlie south- weHl hide of tho iHiand of Han
MarooH, roniid wiucli I hred been given to undoiBtiitid I'eiuls had been formerly lidiud, We found,
however, only a few unproductive sliellH. ()u thiH inlantl Ihuru are uumberK of wild goata, and 1 aout
thn captain and a park of the crew to hunt them."

This part of tho Uulf of California Ih bo rarely visitod Hint it i.^ but littlo known.

150

GULF OF CALIFORNIA.

ill

■ ft*

the southward of Pulpito point, and Lstween it and Basilio point. About '^ miles
northward of Mangle point is Mcrcenarios point, a rocky cliff of dark sandstonn, sur-
mounted by a red cone, 519 foet high. Above this latter point the coast recedes,
forming, with Basilio point, a small open bay known as San Juanico cove. There are
several rocks above and under water in .liis bay, and it should be used with great
caution. San Basilio point is a low rocky cliff, about 50 feet high, formed of red
sandstone.

To the southward of Mangle point is a good anchorage in a north-west wind. The
only dangers to be apprehended are some low rocks, 2 feet above higii water, at about
2 miles south-east from the point. In standing in for this anchor:igo, it is better to
pass close to the point, whore is plenty of water and no hidden danger.

coronados Island, tlie centre of wliich bears S.E. g S., distant 10 miles, from
Mangle point, is of small extent, rising to an altitude of 928 feet. A low sand-spit
extends off sotno distance from its south-west side, leaving but a narrow clianuel
between the island and the mainland. It is only safe for small vessels. Northward of
this sand-spit is an excellent anchorage in a south-easter.

The shore between Mangle point and Coronados island is bold, and immediately behiml
it the land is 1500 to 2000 feet high.

Xioreto. — This is a small villiige situated iu about lat. '20"; it is distant 5 or
miles southward from Coronados island.

Above Loreto tho coast sweeps to tho northward and eastward 31 miles to!the low
sandy point of Terra Firma. In this bay tlun-e is an excellent anchorage sheltered
from every wind except from the northward and eastward. In good weather tho best
anchorage is off Loreto, in 8 or 9 fathoms, half a mile from the beach. In standing in
from the N.E. bring the church and Sugar Loaf peak in range, and anchor as directed
above.

Loreto contains about 150 inhabitants. There are two or throe line gardens, where
oranges, iigs, '.iates, &c., and in their season, vegetables, arc raised. Fresh beef,
wood and water may be obtained at all seasons. (1871).

In former days Lor( to wiis n place of considi;! iili)(! ti iul(s luit tliis wiis many years ngo ;
it is now in a state of decay. It was founded in tli'> year lODH by i>()ii Juan
Caballero y Osis, who wrote a long iiceount of it, and eiuisiilcred its lo<'iility us one of
groat importance, and 8ulisr(|uciitly it bocaiiK! the eiipital of Lower ("aiii'iiniia. The
ftuchoiago is open to winds from North, N.!'".. and S.I''.., and when these prevail with
any fitrongtli, so heavy a sea is sent in, that it is lemlered by no nuinis snle lor a vessel
not well founl in ground tackle. Carmen island affords h1u'II( r IVom i asiwiud, and tho
mainland from westward. Tho following description of Tioreto wus writlcn in 1820 by
Lieutennnt Jlurdy, B.N. : —

" Loreto stands in a valloy of about 2000 or liOOO feet wide, surrounded by wild and
sterile mountains, of which tliat called Laltiganta is the highest and least piclnresquo.*
There are two gardens in the place in wliicli the vine, p('ach, fig. i|;iiini'e and dgt*

* 'I'liis iiKiinilniii iH CRUnintfid to 1 e ")"'.»( IVct liinli. ll in oi volcuiiic oiigiii, iis is all tlic rtst ot
tlio uliiiiii wliicli I'liiiH tlii'«)iiKli tliu Ciilil'urniiiii lu'iiiiisula.

amuHH

-mfim

Fact pc^* 161

-^1

CiVRMEN ISLAND.

151

are cnltivaleil. A. considerablo quantity of wine is annually inado, noiwitlistnndingtlio
fruit is conimou property to all the inhabitants. Peaches uuJ pears are ilr.'ed us well
as figs ; the dates are preserved ; and these fruits are afterwards exchanged for wlioat
and Indian corn, brought to the mission iu small schooners from the port of Guayniiis.

The hills whicb surround the town are chiefly composed of primitive roclv, granite,
and hard sand-stone, all iutcrmiuglcd, witli scnrculy any appearance of soil upon them.
They are thus capable of absorbing but little mi»isture ; and during the heavy rains,
which happily do not occur more frequently than ouce in 5 or G years, the rush of
water through every part of the town, as it comes down the ravine, is so great, that
instances have been known of some of the houses having been actually carried away.
Although the natives arc perfectly sensible of thuir perilous situation in cousequcnco
of these floods, the love of their dwellings is so great as to extinguish all fear for tho
future, and all desire to change their resideuce.

The inhabitants of Loreto are of a dingy, opaque, olive-green, which shows that
there is no friendly mixture in the blood of tho Ri)aniard and the Indian ; or it may bo
that by degrees they are returning to the colour of the aborigines. They appear to bo,
the same squalid, flabby, mixed race, which is observed in almost every part of tho
Mexican coasts."

Pnnta Coyote, about 11 miles southward from Loreto village, forms the eastern side
of a small bay, known as Puerto Escondido, a perfectly secure harbour for small vessels
in all weathers. Just above Punta Coyote is another small bay, named Chuenque.

From Punta Coyote the coast trends easterly and forms an open bay in which there
are many rocks above and under water. Off the easternmost point of this bay several
detached rocks lie to the northward and westward. Eastward of this bay is a pro-
mineut point, off which are several detached rocks lying to the northward and westward ;
three of these, 70 to 80 feet high, and pinnacle-shaped, are known as Los Candeloros.

OARmEN I8LAIVD. — About 4 miles eastward of Punta Coyote is the southern
extremity of Carmou island, situated in about lat. 25° 47' BO". This island is
10 miles iu length N.N.E. and S.S.W., and its breadth gradually increases until
it becouics 5J~ milos wide near its northern end. It is of volcanic origin and bus a range
of peaks its onliio length, from 100 to 1500 feet Iiigh. Its shores are steep, there
being a depth of 7 to 10 fathoms at a very moderate otling, wliich increases to -10 fa-
thoms at i.OdUt a mile from the cliff-;.

Saltnaa nay, on the eastern sido of C^ai'iU.Mi island, near its nortliern end, is a fine har-
bour, in wliicli proti'<'ti(»n may lio (il)lained in nil winds except tlioso from the south-east.
Tho best anchorage is in 5 (tr fathonis, ouij mile south of tho white house with a
cupola, at tho heail of the bay. A salt-mino is situated at tho head and about half a
mile from the beach. The goographical position of tlie head of this bay, according to
the Admiiiilly chart No. 2'Z\H (lH7i»), is lat. t>iV 59' Jit", long. 111° 4'. Mok. point,
known also as i'untii, do Perico from its supposinl resemblance to a parrot's beak, tornis
the eastern limit of the bay ; it is a sliarji, rocky cliff, surmounted by a peak of reddish
colour, 400 f(!<'t high; close to the ptinl is around detached rock, southward of
which, distant one cable, lies a dangerous sunken Vock,

, x.obos point, the northern extreme of Carmen ihland, is a niodcnitely high rocky
point Burroundi'd by dolachod rocks.

152

GULF OF CALIFORNIA.

Between Lobos and Tintorera points is a small open bay known as Paerto de la
Lancha, in which protection may bo obtained from southerly winds.

A small low sand islet, named Cholla, lies off the north-western end of Carmen island
and near to it. Southward of this islet is a small bay known as Puerto Ballandra.

Sanzante Island. — About midway between the south end of Carmen island and the
mainland is the islanl of Danzante. It is 3^^ miles long, nearly parallel with the coast ;
in form it is slightly crescont-shaped, very narrow, and 100 to 450 feet in height.
There is a clear passage nearly a mile wide between it and Carmen island.

San axarelai Point, g. moderately high rocky cliff, surmounted by a peak 600 feet
high, is distant about 25 miles S.E. ^ E. from Pjinta Coyote. The interyening coast
is of the same general character as that to the southward, rising rapidly from the sea
to a height of 100.0 to 2000 feet.

San Marcial rock lies about one railo N. by E. from San Marclal point, and is sur-
rounded by reefs and shoals ; it is of small extent and 25 feet high. There is a boat-
passage between it and the point.

Three miles r tward of San Marcial point is the small bay of Agua Verde. There
is good anchorage here in ordinary weather, and fresh-water may be obtained from the
rancho near the beach. Distant 3^ miles above this ii San Cosme point, a rocky cliff
about 225 feet high.

The small rocks San Cosmo and San Damien, the former 75 feet high and the latter
45 feet, lie about a mile to the northward of San Cosme point. About 7f miles N.N.W.
i W. from San Cosme point is a small white rock, 30 feet high, lying about 8 miles
from the mainland.

Southward of San Marcial point is the small bay of San Marte, where a vessel may
find anchojage in good weather. There are 10 to 12 fathoms water within a third of a
mile from the small sand-beach at the bottom of the bay. A dangerous reef extends
off about a mile south-east of the point, on which the sea breaks in nearly all weathers.

Santa Oatalina Island. — The south end of Santa Catalina island bears N.E. by
E. i E. about 15 miles from San Marcial point. It is between 7 and 8 miles long,
north and south, and from GOO to 1500 feet high. The approximate gQographical
position of its north extremity is hit. 2')° 42', long. 110° 44'.

Montserrate Island. — The south end of Montscrrate island bears N.byW. J\V. 8 miles
from point San Marcial, and about the same distance from the mainland. It is about
4 miles long, parallel with the coast, and 1 or 2 miles wide. It is 200 to 700 feet
high and presents a more inviting appearance than Santa Catalina. It is, however,
like all the other islands hereabout, of volcanic origin and perfectly barren. Three
miles north of the island arc two low rocky islets, known as Las Galeras, northward of
which is a dangerous rock only one foot above high water.

From San Marcial point the coast trends S.E. J S. 38 milps to Nopolo point, abreast
which, distant 2i| miles, is the northern extremity of San Josef island. About midway
between the above points, in lat. 25" 1(5,J ' ('? 14'), is an isolated rock, 55 feet high, about
amileoff the shore, known as Black rock. Other rocks lie off the coast to the southward
of the lllack rock ; one of those, the Habana, DO feet high, is situated in lat. 25" 7'.

Hopolo Point is a rocky cliff with a rugged peak 1G50 feet high immediately behind

■l^'MWfrAl&BJ^fWMiil

HAN JOSEF ISLAND.

153

it. From this point to San Evaristo point, a distance of Gj milns S.E. J E., tho luiul
is high and precipitous.

About 2 miles southward of San Evoristo point, a low sandy point makes out, south-
ward of which is good anchorage in 5 or 6 fathoms, half a mile from tho beach.

BXaetando Head, 12 miles S.E. by S. from San Everisto point, is a bold perpendicular
cliflf of variegated colour,about 200 feet high, surmounted by a dome-shaped hill 750 feet
in height. Behind this hill, and a short distance inland, is mount Mechudo 3000 feet
in height, and the highest land in this vicinity.

. SAir JOBEF ISX.AND. — The south end of San Josef island bears N.E. ^ E. about
6 miles from Mechudo head. It extends nearly 18 miles nearly parallel with the coast,
N.W. i W. and S.E. i E., and is from 2 to G miles wide, the northern end being
narrowest and terminating in a narrow, sharp point. It is rather higher than Espiritu
Santo, several of its peaks having an altitude of over 2000 feet, and is of volcanic origin.
It is separated from the mainland by a deep channel 3 to 5 miles wide, except
abi'east of Nopolo point, where it is 2J miles in width. Here, a low sand spit makes oflf
fi'om the island toward Nopolo point.

Amortajada Bay. — There is a good anchorage in Amortajada bay, on the south-we§t
side of San Josef island, in 7 or 8 fathoms, where a ship is sheltered from every wind,
particularly the dreaded " cordonazos " or south-easterly gales. In the centre of the
bay, about 1^ miles off the entrance of San Jose river, is an islet, named Caijo, with a
dangerous reef extending off its northern extremity about a quarter of a mile. Fresh-
water may be obtained here. The position of the north-west point of tho bay is lat,
M" 54' 80", long. 110° 85' 40". (See the Admiralty Chart No. 2248, edition 1879),

San Francisco Island. — Several rocks and islets lie off the south-western end of San
Josef island, the largest of which, San Francisco, lies nearly 2 miles south of it, This
is 600 feet high, nearly 2 miles long, and about one mile wide. The passage between
it and San Josef is dangerous, as it contains many rocks above and under water.

There are two dangerous rocks, about 5 feet high, known as Seal rocks, lying off
San Francisco islet, about 3^ miles from tho mainland, with the following bearings : — -
north-western end of San Francisco, East nearly 2 miles ; Salinas point, N.W. by N,
5^ miles.

In using tho channel between San Josef island and the mainland at night or in thick
weather it is better to keep the mainland close aboard, as there are no known dangers
on that side.

i.aa Animas. — About 9 miles E. by N. ^ N. from tho north end of San Josef island
are tho rocky islets of Las Animas, about 90 feet in height. Thcro is a deep passage
between them and San Josef.

Ban siego Island lies N. J W. 5^ miles from the north end of San Josef. It is
nearly a mile long, N.E. and S.W., and its highest point is 722 feet. A reef makes
off about a mile from its south-western point, ending in a small rock awash. There is
another reef Ij miles south of tho highest peak, witli from 4 to 5 fathoms on it. A
reef also makes off about half a mile from tho northern end of San Josef, leaving a clear
passage, about Smiles wide, between that island and San Diego ; but it should bo used
with caution, as there may be other rocks in it which tho surveyors were unable to find,

Santa Cruz Island lies 4^^ miles N. by W. from San Diego island. It is about

GULF OF CALIFORNIA.

8 miles long north and Roath, and about 2 miles wide. It is 1500 feet high, and
extremely barren and rocky.

ESFiniTTT BANTO ISI..^ND, about 20 miles S.E. by S. from the south end of San
Josef island, lies in the entrance to the bay of La Puz, and is separated from the mainland
by San Lorenzo channel, which is 3.i miles wide. The island is 9 miles long, N.N.W.
and S.S.E., and from 2 to 1 miles wide. It is of volcanic origin, and from 200 to 1200
feet high. A remarkable red cone, 197 feet high, near the south-western end (Dis-
pensa point) of the island, is an excellent laud-mark in navigating San Lorenzo channel.

The approximate geographical position of Lupona point, the southernmost point
of Espiritu Santo, according to the Admiralty Chart No. 2248, edition 1879, is lat.
24° 24' 13", long. 110" 17'.

Several detached rocks and islets Ho off the western side of Espiritu Santo island, the
largest of which, Ballena (or Gallo), is about a mile northward of Balleua bay. There
are also two or three off the northern end of the island, known as Los Islotes.

At the south-west end of Espiritu Santo island there is a little bay named San
Gabriel, in which vessels may anchor in about 10 fathoms, and obtain shelter from
northerly and easterly winds, but they must not go fixr in because the depth suddenly
decreases to 8^ and 2 fathoms, whence to the shore it is very shallow. In the middle
of this shallow part there is a ledge of rocks, which extends out 4 cables from the
beach. The western limit of the bay is known as Piieta point.

At about a mile northward of Gabriel bay, and cfu the same side (the west) of
Espiritu Santo island, is an anchorage in what is known as port iJallena. It consists of
an open bay fronted by two small islets, named Gallo and Gallina, of which the first men-
tioned is the largest and most northward. The auchorago is at about midway between
the islets in 5 i to G fathoms, and shelter is afforded against eastcrl}' winds.

£an Lorenzo cbannel. — The channel south-westward of Espiritu Santo island,
between it and San Lorenzo point, is 8 J miles wide and has a depth of 5 to 8 fathoms,
the depth of 5 fathoms being on a bar which connects the island to tho shore. Upon
this bar is a reef of 12 foot (in some few spots less than 7 feci) water, situated in nearly
mid-channel, but nearer the island thiiu the shore, known as San Lorenzo reef. About
half a mile north-east of the latter are the Suwanee rocks with 9 feet water over them.

Shoals also extend off the southern shore of the channel, the outermost of these was
discovered by the officers of H. M.S. Snuil in 1808. Tliis rocky patch has a depth of

9 to 12 feet water over it, is distant nearly lA miles from the south-cast shore of the
channel, and discoloured water was oljscrved to extend soiue distance northward from
it allhougli a depth of not less than 0! fathoms was obtaini^d. From it, the centre of
n gap next southward of the highest peaks of Ceralbo island bore E, by !^. : tho eastern
extreme of Espiritu Santo N. \ E. ; North rock (breakers N. tJ E. ; and the highest
land on the California shore just open north-eastward of tho redmound on Dispenaa
point, the southern end cf Espiritu Santo. Tlieso bcariiij^'s place it N.W. ^ N. 1 1 miles
from Arranco Cabella point, N. by E. j E. 21 miles from San Lorenzo point. Scout
shoal is guarded by a buoy on its northern edge.

This channel should be used with great caution, as other dangers may exist, its
hydrography being buji imperfectly known. It is liigh water on the days of full and
change of the moon at Hh. ;}()ni. ; s))iings rise feet.

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LA PAZ BA^.

155

Directions, — Toenter the channel from the southward and eastward , stcor W.X.W. ^VV.
for the red mound on Espiritu Santo inland, giving Coyoto point a berth of halt' a
mile. When Lohos point bears N. by W. and San Lorenzo point S.W. by S. stocr
W. by S. until you open Lobos rocks beyond Diablo point ; then the red nioiuid will
bear N.W. i W. and you will be clear of all dangers.

There .'s another channel with 4 fathoms water near Espiritn Santo island, between
it and San Lorenzo reef.

Arranco Cabello point is low and sandy, sloping back gradually to mountains 1000
feet high. San Lorenzo and Diablo points are moderately high blutl's.

XiA FAZ BAV. — The bay of Ija Paz, the largest on tiie eastern side of Lower
California, is nearly 40 miles deep and 16 to 20 miles wide. The western side, from
Mechudo head to the bottom of the bay, presents a bold shore with precipitous cliffs or
high mountain-slopes, affording no anchorage or shelter for ships ; thence IG miles to
El Mogote point, the coast is low and sandy, with shoal water making off one or two
miles. At about 5 miles within the bay on its east side is the harbour of Pichilinque ;
and farther on, near its head, is the harbour of La Piu,.* A pilot's assistance should
bo obtained to enter either of these harbours.

Plohlllnquo Barbonr. — The entrance to Pichilinque harbour lies about 4 miles south
of Diablo point. Colorado point, to the southward of the entrance, is low and of a I'ed
colour.

Pichilinque harbour, though small, is one of the best on the coast. It is formed by
the island of San Juan Nepomezcino, which is about 1^ miles in extent N. by W. and
S. by E. and about a quarter of a mile broad. The islaud is distant from the shore
only about a third of a mile, but in this space there is a depth of 4^ to 7
fathoms on mud and sand ; hence it forms an excellent harbour, where shelter may bo
obtained completely from all winds. The entrance is from southward, because the
north end of the island is connected to tlic shore by a shallow flat of less than 10 feet
at low water ; in this entrance the depth gradually decreases from 10 to fathoms. Old
writers speak of the excellent pearl beds to be found in this harbour. The south end
of San Juan Nepomezcino, according to the Admiralty Chart, No. 2248, edition 1871),
is in lat. 24" 15' H5", long. 110" 17'.

x.a Fas Harbour. — Priota poii't, the entrance to La Paz harbour, lies S.E. by S.
2 miles from Colorado point. It is a sharp perpehdicular bluff, about 50 feet liigli,
the land sloping back gradually from it. lia Paz is situated about .'hniles southward of
Prieta point.

The harbour of La Paz is formed by a projecting point of low marshy land, known as
El Moffote, from which a slioal of only B to 4 feet water, extends about 2)t miles in a
north-easterly direction, or nearly to Prieta point, the north point ()f the harbour; the
channel in is, consequently, dose under that point. A ship drawing 10 or 17 feet may
enter at any state of the tide, but should take a pilot, as tiio channel is narrow and
tortuous. The bar has upon it a depth at \>,\ fathoms at low water, and innnrdiately
outside it are souiulings of 5, and 7 fathoms at the some period of tide. The harbour

• Liratfniiiit R. Odborn, R.N. Imn nl>s(>rvi>il tlmt a vtssrl iiii\iiiin to korp on tlui oonut of Mexico,
or its nci^'liliourliixul, iluring tlin bnd nciiitnii, cnniiot dn l» tier lliiiii run over to tlio b»y of Ija Par. ;
he ipenki of it on a diilcmiid harbour.

150

GULP OF CALIFORNIA.

consists of a narrow channel of 8| to 4 and Bi fathoms, between the shoal jast referred
to and the eastern shore, and vessels at anchor off the town are sheltered by the shoal
from seas sent in by north-westerly winds. The best anchorage is half a mile to the
southward of the wharf in B.J fathoms water. The depth in the channel-way opposite
the town is 8^ to 4^ fathoms. The geographical position of La Paz, according to
Com. Dewey, U.S.N., 1874, is lat. 24" 10' 9", long. 110" 10' 58".

The harbour is protected on its western side, as already observed, by a low marshy
peninsula called El Mogote. There is a boat pansage to the bay near Mogote.

La Paz is the seat of the territorial government of Lower California, and contains
about 2000 inhabitants. The climate is said to be healthy.

Supplies of various kinds, such as fresh beef, bread, wood, and water may be
obtained in small quantities, but they are very dear.

Coyote Folnt, the south point of the entrance to San Lorenzo channel, is moderately
low, with a small out-lying white rock a few feet from it. About 16 miles S.E. by
E. f E. from this point is Gorda point, a bold rocky bluff with high land behind it.
Between these points the coast is bold and rocky, with occasional sand-beaches, the
country at the back being broken and mountainous. In some parts sunken rocks lie
close off the shore,

v«nt«n» Bay. — From point Gorda to point Arena de la Ventana, a distance of
12 miles E.S.E., the coast recedes, forming the largo open bay of Ceralbo, about 5 miles
deep in its deepest part ; it is called by the natives Ventana. To the southward of the
bay lies an extensive plain covered with cacti and stunted bushes. On the north-
western side of the bay, the high coaf^t-hills rise abruptly from the water's edge.
Anchorage may be had in any part of the bay near the coast.

Ventana, a small settlement, lies about 9 miles to the westward of a low sandy point
named Arena de la Ventana, and at tlie bottom of the bay. Fresh-water, cattle, hogs,
poultry, &e. may be procured hero.

OBKALBO ZBLANB, of volcanic Origin, high and barren, lies off this part of the
coast. Its highest peak has an altitude of about 2500 feet. Tho island extends about
14 miles N.W. and S.E., and its greatest widtli is about 4 miles.

The geographical position of tho northern extremity of Ceralbo island, according to
Com. Dewey, U.S.N. , 1874, is lat. 24° 21' 35", long. 100" 50' 3".

There is a fine channel between this island and tlio mainlaud, 5 miles wide at point
Arena de la Ventana, and 0^ miles at point Gorda. It is apparently free from al|
dangers.

Anchorage may bo had on tho south-wost side of tho island to the northward of a
»and point. Tho tides set through this clianncl witli considorablo force, at timea
2 knots per hour.

Thete is a small dangerous rook (named Hoiil rock), about 12 feot high, 6^ miles
N.W. I N. from the northern ond of (Jcnill)o island ; and a nnnkoi) rook, known at
Montana, lies about 100 yards south of iU south-oust extremity, with oply 12 feat
water on it,

volat rorioo, about 8 miles south-eastward from point Arena, is bold and rooky ;
the coast between thoso points is low and sandy, broken 'roriueutly hy rooky patchfi
10 to 20 feet high.

JIJ

Fact poft 1S7.

CO
en

SAN JOSE DEL GABO BAT

Nanlic MUe

o 1 t > 4 t loOaUu

Soundlnrt in Fathoms

:.onif.l09'37 52"W:

LONUON. Juuti \mytj t i<an

POINT PESCADEKOS, SAN JOSE.^EL CABO BAY, &c.

157

Point V«aoad«ros, 15 miles south-eastward from point Perico, is similar iu character
to the latter and has hills around it, risiug to a considerable height. The land recedes
between these points, forming the open bay of Muertos. At the back of this bay the
land rises to a height of nearly 5000 feet, with a gradual descent on the south side of
the bay to a sand beaeb, 10 to 50 feet high, and on the northern to a broken rocky
shore. Anohorage can generally be found within half a mile of the beach, in 8 to
16 fathoms.

AniikPelBt, called Observation point by Com. Dewey U.S.N. , lies 19 miles
S.E. f E. from point Pescaderos. It is a low point, with sand-spits and heavy surf
on its northern and western sides. Tbe coast between the above points falls away
8 to 5 miles, forming Palmas bay. This, like all the other bays between San Lucas
and San Lorenzo channel, is entirely open to easterly winds, and affords no shelter in
the dreaded south-easterly gales.

In the northern part of Palmas bay, the hills extend to the water with rocky cliffs.
The sontbem part is less broken, the coast being low and sandy, rising gradually to the
coast range of mountains a fiew miles inland. On the south side of the bay is quite an
extensive plain covered with cactus and low bushes.

Immediately southward of Arena point is an open bny, 1^ to 2 miles in depth. The
point and southern shore of this bay should not be approached nearer than a mile
without the greatest caution. Anchorage may be found 2 miles inside the point one
mile from shore, in 7 fathoms water. There is a bar a quarter of a mile in-shore of
this anchorage extending nearly to the point, with B to 5 fnthoms on it and indications
of sboaler spots.

Bleb Biuir, about 6^ miles S.E. by S. from point Arena, is a rocky bluff, 71 feet
high, surmounted by a hill 884 feet high. Shoal water extends off this headland a

short distance in every direction.

Gap* rnimo, 4^ miles S.S.E. from High bluff, is a bold rocky bluff 410 feet high,

surmounted by a hill 706 feet high. There is a small white outlying rock, about

12 feet high, half a mile northward of the middle of the bluff.

Cap* PorSa, a boM rocky headland 8^ miles S. ^ E. from cape Pulmo, may be

recognised by its light grayish colour, differing several shades from other points in the

vicinity. Sunken rockr lie close off the cape.

OapaPoifla, 10 miles S.S.W. from cape Porfia, is low and rocky, with a heavy surf

breaking upon it at all times. Tbe coast between these two eapes is moderately low and

rocky, with occasional sand'beaches sloping back gradually to the mountain range in

the interior. About midway between the points is a low sand point, with discoloured

water extending off a mile or more. A few miles south-west . of capo Polfia is point

Gorda, a round roeky bluff, 800 fuet high.

■aaJea* daioabo Bay. — Point Gorda forms with point Palmia, 8.| miles farther

Bouth'vestward, an open bay known as Ban Josu del Gabo. Here a vessel may anchor

in 6 to 9 fathoms water, a third of a mile fi'om the beach in any part of the bay ; but
' the be»t anchorage is about a mile to the northward of Palmia point, in fathoms,

■audy bottom, and abreast of a small sund-beaoh. Here, too, is the best boat-lauding.

A heavy swell sots into the bay at all times, making anything but a desirable

auoborage or lauding.

158

GUW OF CALIFORNIA.

The land nbont the bay consists of low snnd-beachcs and rocky patches, rising to
moderately high hills a short distance inland, with the uiouutaiu ranges of Victoria
and San Luzaro farther back.

The river San Jose empties into the sea about three miles from Pahnia point, water-
ing an extensive valley of the same name for many miles in the interior. The village
of San Jose del Cabo is on the bank of the river about a mile from the sea. The
geographical position of the entrance to the river, according to the Admiralty Chart
No. 1900, edition 1879, is lat. 23° 3' 15", long. 109" ii?' 52". Here a ship may obtain
a supply of wood, water, beef, and vegetables at a moderate price. The salt-marsh
between the beach and San Jost; is known as the Sitl<ttett.

Faimia Point, the south-western extremity of San Jose bay, is low and rocky, with
detached rocks ; it is backed by a mound 815 feet high. A short distiiuce to the west-
ward and on the coast is Cerro Colorado, 5-10 feet high, and of red sandstone. This is
an excellent landmark, being the only formation of the kind between capo San Lucas
and San Joso bay.

CabAsa Baiiena, 9^ miles S.W. i \V. from Palmia point, is a rocky bluff 200 feet
high, Oi" dark colour and with detached rocks extending a short distance from the point.
For about 3 miles to the northward and eastward the coast is rocky and moderately
high ; thence to Palmia point it is low and sandy, sloping gradually to a mountain
range a short distance inland.

OAFB BAN X.VCAB. — About i\\ milcs S.W. i W. from Cabeza Balleua is a group
of rugged rocks, some being 250 foet high, rising perpendicularly from the water.
These rocks form the extremity of Cape San Lucas and are known as Los Fiailet. On
certain bearings these rocks are grotesque in their outlines, and are backed by a conical
mound, 200 feet high, ending a short range of hills. The approximate geographical
position of the capo is hit. 22° 53', long. 109° 60'.

Cape San Lucas is of moderate height, and a few leagues northward from it the land
rises so high as to be soon at the distance of 20 leagues. When in this neighbourhood,
it is recommended to keep the lead constantly going, because the low shore is
occasionally bidden by the hazo which frequently prevails even when tho weather is
clear out at sea. At the distance of 27 miles from this coast, the depth is about
70 fathoms.

From cape San Lucas the coast trends westward about 8 miles to capo Falso, which
is so named because at a distance it bears some resemblance to, and has consequently
been frequently mistaken for, cape San Lucas. The coast between is a succession of
sand-beaches and bold rocky bluffs, against which the sea breaks heavily even in the
finest weather.

North of cape False, a short distance inland, are tho Paps of Sau Lucas, two
I'emarkable peaks about GOO feet high.

Captain Wilcox, U.S. Navy 1850, rounded cape Sau Lucas at the distance of about
15 miles. When the capo bore N.E. by E. and cape False N. by W., the land
appeared high, bold, and in the vicinity of the capes mountainous. He remarked
especially that the wliite chalky cliffs rendered the coast easy of recognition as they
are visible at a considerable distance. The harbour be alludes to, '<ve consider, can
scarcely b« the well known bay of San Luoaj on the east side of the cape, as that bay

mmmmim

wmm

/Vim pan* 159

LONDON -JunM Itnxf le Son.

«APE SAN LUCAS.

ir>{)

is sheltered from northerly winds and nsposcd to those from snutli-onstward, but must
be on the north side of the oape ; it is not mentioned on uuy churls uf the coiist we
have met with. He says " We ran into the little harbour of capo San Luc:is
anchoring in IG fathoms water, within a cable's length of the shore. The harbour is
but 2 miles in width, protected from the south-east by a high rocky bluff, but perfectly
exposed to the north and west. It is an extremely dangerous anchorage, as a heavy
surf is continually rolling in, and no bottom is found at 100 fathoms, till close into the
beach."

Ban Xineas Bay is on the cast side of the cape ; the anchorage here is very limited,
being conQned to the north-western side, f'.d deep water exteuding almost up to the
beach.

In entering the bay steer about W.N.W. for Ritchie's, a large white house of two
stories and the first object seen in making the anchorage. Have the anchor all ready,
as the bank is very steep, and come to in 6 or 7 fiv.homs, a third of a mile from the
beach. This is an unsafe anchorage in the summer or wet season, as south-easterly
gales are both frequent and heavy.

Siqyplies. — Excellent fresh beef and vegetables can he obtained here at moderate
prices, and there is also an abundance of tolerable fresh-water. The best water is
obtained at the wells sunk in the bed of the arroyo, about half a mile from the beach.
Wood can also be had. The settlement consists of about a dozen houses, with a
population of l.'SO.

In reference to the bay of San Lucas Captain Sir E. Belcher, R.N. observes " they
were nearly making a sad mistake, after shortening sail, by finding after they cast in
10, they had no bottom with 88 fathoms, just as they were about to let go the anchor.
This shows the necessity of keeping the lead on the bottom before letting go an anchor.

This bay was first named Aguada Segura by the Spaniards, and afterwards altered
by Yizcaiuo to that of San Bai'nabe, it being the festival of that saint when this
navigator entered it, in IGO'2. It is the same bay in which Cavendish lauded his
prisoners, 190 in number, when he anchored there with his prize, the Santa Ana,
taken from the king of Spain, in 1587. Some Amei'icans and Californians now reside
there, who supply the whalers which annually resort there with water, wood, cattle,
vegetables and fruit. The country is mountainous and sterile about the cape, and the
supplies are brought from the valley of San Jose, about 20 miles to the northward,
which is well cultivated. The water, which is procured from the wells, is sweet when
dra\\'n, and is very bright, but is impregnated with muriate of soda and nitre, which
pervade the soil. It consequently soon putrifies on board."

It has been remarked in Captain Rogers's account of his voyage round the world, in
1710: — "This port is about a league eastward of a round, sandy, bold headland,
which some take to be capo Sau Lucas, because it is the southernmost land. The
entrance into the bay moy be known by four high rocks, which appear like the Needles
at the Isle of Wight (England) when seen from westward. The two westernmost are in
the form of sugar loaves, and the innermost of them has an arch, through which the sea
makes its way. Leave the outermost rock about a cable's length on the port hand, and
steer into the deepest part of the bay, being all bold, where vessels may anchor in from

• i

160

GULF OF CALIFORNIA.

10 to 25 fathoms depth. Here you may ride land-Ioeked from all winds, save those
between E. by N. and S.E. by S. Yet it would be bnt an ordinary road if the wind
should come strong from the sea. The starboard side of the bay is the best anchoring
ground, where vessels may ride on a bank that has from 10 to 15 fathoms depth. The
rest of this bay is very deep ; and near the rocks on the port side going in there is no
ground. This is not a good recruiting place."

CA^ SAN LitCAS TO POINT CONCEPCION.

Magnetic Variation in 1879; — Off Cape San Lucas 9" i")' E.; at Magdalena
Bay 10° 20' E. ; Ballenas Bay 11° E ; SebuKutn Viscaino Bay 12° E. ;
Colnett Bay 18° E. ; San Dleyo Bay 14° E. ; Point Concepciuri
14° 60* E. The annual inrreate is estimated to be about 2 minutes.

OBHBBAli latnaKAmKBr^llie entire coast of Lower California, from the United
States boundary-line to La Paz, with the exc^eption of San Lucas bay and the valleys
of Todos Santos and San Jose del Cabo, is barren in the extreme. The land is
generally high aind precipitous and its approaches bold. There are many places where
a ship may anchor and find protection from the prevailing coast-wind.

During the suiilmer months, strong south-east gales of short duration are frequent in
the vicinity of cape San Lucas, but they rarely extend so far north as Gedros island.
During the months of June, July, August, and September, winds from northward and
westward are experienced on the Pacific coast of the peninsula. The nights are
ordinarily calm, with heavy dews. The breeze springs up from the westward about

9 a.m., hauling gradually to the northward as the day advances, and attaining its
greatest force about 8 p.m. Occasionally there are light southerly winds ; but the pre-
vailing winds are from northward and westtrard.

Between San Diego and Gedros island, during the month of September, the weather
is said to be misty and foggy during the night, cleairing up every morning about

10 a.m., and for the remainder of the day it is clear and pleasant. Southward of
Cedros island fog is mucli less frequent, the mornings clearing earlier, the temperature
lower, and the winds lighter.

The tides are infiuenced by the prevailing wind, and sot from one-quarter to three-
quarters of a knot per hour. A strong current has been observed setting to the east-
ward aroand cape San Lucas.

Til* ooABT. — Cape San Lucas has already been described (see page 158). The
coast thence to the westward is a succession of sand -br aches and bold rocky blufis,
against which the sea breaks heavily even in the finest weather. About 8 miles west-
ward of cape San Lucas is cnpe Falso (or False San Lucas), a rocky blufi*, with many
detached ftnd outlying rooks in its vicinity. Here the coast bends round to the north-
iweatward and the first point met with is SanCbristobal, distant 7miles N.W. by W. iW.
iront oape Falso.

SANTA MARGARITA ISLAND.

161

FelaY BAi Oiurlatobal is a bold rocky blaflf, about 50 feet high, with many outlying
rocks around it. About 5 miles northward is the Cerro do las Playas, a conical hill
about 500 feet in height.

Xik TlnaJA (the pitcL^r) is distant about 10 miles North from point San Christobal.
It is' a rocky bldff of moderate elevation, so called because of a cavity or basin on its
summit, which, filling with water during thu wet season, affords a watering-place for
the cattle of the neighbouring raiicho.

San Pedro Point, 80 miles northward of San Christobal point, is the eastern extremitjf
of a rocky promontory about 200 feet high, of .u. >'h Lobos point is the western
extremity. Th^ intermediate coast consists of a successio. uf sand-beaches and rocky
patches (forming slight projections in the coast-line) and is in general low, rising to a
height of 600 to 1000 feet a short distance inlanr

*hv i^adro is a small settlement, situated on the bay of tliat name, 2 miles fi'om San'
Pedro point. Landing is said told practicable here ir or>aaary weather.

Seven miles to the southward of Lobos point is the open bay of Pescaderos, having
a small fishing village half a mile from the beach.

Todoa Bantoa. — Northward of point Lobos, distant about 2 miles, i'^ point La Poza,
the end of a table-land extending from the vicinity of point Lobos. It is a peqiendicular
bluff p.bout 50 feet high, with numerous outlying rocks. At this point the river Todos
Santos empties into' the sea ; it is a small stream flowing the whole year and watering
the fertile valley of the sfaiue name.

Todos Santos village, containing about 800 inhabitants, is situated about three-
quarters of a mile behind the beach. This is an excellent place for a ship to get fresh
provisions and water.

This Valley is' said to be one of the most fertile on the peninsula, there being an
abundance of water for irrigating purposes. The gardens and fields are many acres
in extent. Figs, oranges, and sugar-cane are produced, the last being by far the most
important,' many thousand pounds of sugar being manufactured every year.

About 3 miles northward from point La Poza is a grove of palms situated quite
near the beach.

Point Bxiurqais, in latitude 28" 56' 30", is low and rocky, forming a sharp projecting
point on the coast-line, and is the first rocky formation seen after leaving Rio Todos
Santo§.'

m con«Jo Point, ih' latitude 24° 'i '. 47 miles N.W. by W. J W. from point
Marquis, is'on the eastern side of the bout passage, which leads into Santa Marina bay.'
The east extremity of the low sand island, named Cresciente, about 10 miles in extent
E.N.E. and W.S.W., forms the western side of this boat passage. El Conejo point
is" low and rocky, backed by a dome-shaped mound about 50 feet high.

Thfe coast bfets^een Lobos and El Conejo points, is low, sandy, and barren, with table-
lands, 100 to 200 feet high, a mile or two back, rising gradually to an altitude of
2000 feet 20' miles iuland. A ship may anchor oft' any part of this coast in fine
weather, in 8 ot 10 fathoms, a mile or two from the beach. The soundings are
regular, shoaling gradually toward the beach.

I'ASOAKXTA zBZiAND. — From Santa Marina point, the south-west end of

162

LOWER CALIFORNIA.

Crescieute island, to cape Tosco, the southern extremity of Margarita island, the
distance is nearly 4 miles and bearing S.S.W. ^ W. Between these points is a passage
into Magdalena bay, named Rehusa channel ; it is, howevor, too shoal and intricate for
anything bat boat-navigation. Margarita island is about 20 miles in extent,
W.N.W. and E.S.E., and 2 to 4 miles in width ; it is high and barren,, and of volcanic
origin. It presents a bold rocky face its entire lenpth, except nliout midway where
the Coast falls away somewhat, forming an open h ly called Pequena ; here the land
is low and sandy. Mount Maigarita. near the southern end of tLo inlaud, is 2000 feet
high. The two remarkable peaks just soutli of Pequena bay, about 1000 feet high, ore
known as the Sisters. On the southern end of the island there is a spring of excellent
water.

Cape ToBco is a bold rocky point, with a reef of rocks extending off S.S.E. about

3 cables, over which the sea breaks constantly.

Cape nedondo is a round rocky headlnnd, nearly 100 feet high, the land rising
rapidly behind it to a height of 500 or 600 feet. A reef extends off to tbe north-
west about 8 cables from the cape.

BKAaDAiiBNA BAT. — This extcnsive inlet lies between longitudes 111" 80' and
112° 15'. It is protected from the sea in a south-westerly direction by the large island
of Margarita, and has soundings over nearly the whole of its extent of 20 to 10 and

4 fathoms. Its principal entrance is at the west end of this island, through " channel
8 miles broad, and here the width of the bay (from the entrance to the main land
opposite it) isabout 12 miles : consequently there is ample room for the accommoda-
tion of nlmost any number of vessels. Entrada point, the western point of the entrance, .
is a (lomo-sbaped hill about 200 feet high, connected with the mainland by a narrow
strip of sand and rock but a few feet above high -water. There are several out-
lying rocks from 10 to 12 feet high quite near it, and a reef making off south-east
about 3 cables, over which the sea generally breaks. The channel between the reefs
ofl" capo llcdondo and Entrada point is at least 2 miles wide aud free from all dangers.
I'he tide runs with considerable force through this channel, at the rate of one to two
liriots per hour. Capo 8an Lazaro, which may lie considered the north-western bound-
arv of the bay, is 1800 feet high.

Magdalena bay was surveyed in 18)7 by ('a])tain Du Petit Thonars of the French

K.'ivy, uud in 1839 by Captain Sir Edward Helchor, R.N. To the chart of the latter

iitifier, published by the Admiralty (No. 1930), we must refer our readers, as a written

Ivrription of the bay will necessarily convey a very inadequate idea of the advantages

.1 poSKCHSOS.

'I'lie Rlioro on both sides of the bay is lined with rocks, so that it is recommended to
■■■.w]) as near the middle as possible, where will be found 12 to 18 fathoms water, rocky
' "Hum, with shclLs. When within, there is a similar depth on saud and shells. At
• ■ head of the bay, iu its north-west corner, are numerous sand-banks having between
thoni a channel 5 fathoms deep, which runs up the coast past capo San Lazaro as fur
iiorth as lat. 25° 80' or even farther ; northward of the capo this channel is divided
(Vnin tlte sea by a very narrow bolt of low land covered with sand hills. The land
< lii lin Mjo north side of the bay is so little above the sea level that when off the
\ t cud of Satitu Margarita iuland it cannot bo scuu from the deck,

Ftu»pa0t 2S2.

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Soimdi

■^P'

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l.oNliKN .Uti\«i liiirav Jl'

illMMU* Ut.

I.ONIioN ,I«iim Iiin»v *• r^nii .

Magdalena bay.

163

Captain Da Petit Thonars says : — '■ The high land of cape Sau Lazaro affords an
excellent mark for making the land, as it can be seen at the distance of 10 or 12
leagues. The entrance of the bay is 8 miles wide and very brief. It presents no
difficulty, if only care be taken not to go too near the sonth point, becaase of a
detached rock, on which the sea breaks, situated about half a mile from the point. In
tacking, when within the bay, care must be taken co avoid the Venus bank ; it is
necessary also to keep sufficiently far from the low land to the East and N.E.

Anchorage can bo obtained in the north-west part of the bay, or in the south part
of it, according to the prevailing winds. The holding ground is moderately good.

The bay offers no resources, as there are neither houses, wood, nor water.

Outside the bay, the current rui^s southward, with a strength of about one-third of a
mile per hour.

The tides are regular, and occasion very strong currents at the entrance of the bay.
It is high water, on the days of full and chango of the moon, at 7h. 87m. The tide
rises about 6| feet.

The following remarks on making Magdalena bay are by Captain W. H. Parker,
P.M.8.S. Co., 1871 : — In entering this bay keep over towards point Entrada. The
best anchorage, at all seasons, is probably abreast the spot marked "Obs'y" on
Belcher's chart, about 7 miles N.W. from point Entrada. To reach it you have only
to follow the land around from tho point, at a distance of three-quarters of a mile and
anchor in 10 or 12 fathoms water.

During the prevalence of northerly winds the best anchorage is, perhaps, at the
head of the bay. It is here I have generally seen whalers at anchor. To reach it,
run about N. by E. } E. from the entrance to the harbour, and anchor in 7 or 8 fa-
thoms ; observing not to bring point Entrada to the eastward of S. by W. J W. This
will insure your being clear of Dupetit spit.

The anchorage on the eastern side of the bay, towards Mangrove island, is more
e-^'^ed to the winds.

At present, when we have passengers for Magdalena ba^, they are met by a boat off
point Eutr.iila. It is not yet determined where the anchorage for our steamers will be
when wo outer tho bay. This will depend upon the permanent location of the colony.

There is not tlio loiist difficulty in entering the bay by day or night. You will, of
course, keep tho lead going."

Sir Edward Belcher, ll.N,, observes, " I was fully prepared to have found, as the
name imported, un extensive bay ; but on entering the heads, which are about 2 miles
asunder, no Uuul could bo discerned from tho deck, from N.W. to N.E. or East ; and
even after entering, it was quite a problem iu this new sea where to seek for anchorage,
our depths at first, even near tlie shore, ranged from 17 to 80 fiithoms. However, ns
the prevailing winds appeared to be westerly, I detorniinod on beating to windward, in
which it eventually proved I was correct. About 4h. p.m., wo reached a very con-
venient berth iu 10 fathoms, with a very sheltered position for our observatory. Pre-
parations wore immediately made for tho examination of this extensive sea, or what I
shall in future term tho gulf of Ma;;;daleua.

It is probable that this part of tbo coast formerly presented three detached islands

164

LOWER CAtiromiA.

viz., San Lazaro range, Magdalena range, and Margarita range, with one nnnamedsaod
island, and nnmerous sand iBlets. It is not improbable that its estuaries meet those
from La Paz, forming this portion of sontberu California into an imiuv«ase archipelago.

The tirst part of our expedition led us up the northern branch of what held out soma
prospect of a fresh-water river, particularly as frequent marks of cattle were noticed.
In the prosecution ef this part of cur »urvey we noticed that the San Larazo range is
only coDBeeted by a Tery narrow belt of sand between the two bays, and that the
■ommit of soma sand-hills were covered in- a most extraordinary manner, by piles of
fragile shells, which resembled those recently found in the gulf. The cliffs tbroagbonfe
the Gulf also abomid in organic remains.

Having explored the westernmost estaary, about 17 miles northward of onr observa-
tory, until no end appeared to its intricacies, I resolved on attempting a second, whicb
afforded a wider entrance, and afforded deeper water. This was examined about
4 miles beyond the last, and it still offered ample scope for employment, the advanced
boat being at that moment in i fathoms, and distant heads iu view ; but coudderiug
that sufficient had been done to show that no hope offered of reaching fresh-water, and
that th« still^ unexplored state of the gulf would engross all our spare time, I determined'
on adhering to- its raai.v outlines, which eventually offered so many intricacies as almost
to baffle our patience.

One circumstance connected with the exflmiuation of the second estaary afforded
tery strong proof that no fiesh-water streams were in the vicinity. It was the fact of
iinding near onr advanced position many large specimens uf the asteria n>odu9n, or
enryale, an asteria seldom found but in pure, and genoruUy deep salt water. At least
twenty were taken by the dredge.

By the 9th of November we had reached the eastern end of the first gulf, when the
ship was moved into the second, the channel or strait connecting thorn being not more'
than a quarter of a mile wide. I had been very Bauguine in my expectations that we'
should have discovered a safe channel out by the eastern end of the island of Margarita ;
but until satisfied upon that point I took t^to Stiniiii;/ and boats to explore. I found
that our boats, and, upon emergency, the Starliui/, might have passed out, but it was
far too doubtful and ii.tiicalo for the ship.

After all the time expended (18 days) on this immense sheet of water, it will-
naturally be enquired, \shat nrivautagos docs the port offer ? The reply is : at the
present moment, sholter ; and irom several water-courses nearly dry at the time of our
visit, it is evident that very powerful streams scour the valleys in the winter season,
Vlhich in this regi(m is reckoned botwen May and October.

Fuel (mangrove) can be easily obtained in the pwtoros.

As a port for refit after any disaster, it is also very oonvcnient ; and for this purpose'
either our northern or southern observatoi'y bays may bo selected. Tlio latter would
afford bettor shelter, but the former is certainly more convenient, and less liable to'
difficulty of navigation, the access to it being entirely free from shoals.

In war it would bo a moat eligible rendezvous, particularly if watching the coasts of
Mexico or California, as no one could prevent the formation of an establishment, with-
out adequate naval force ; and the nature of the country itself would not uiaiutaiu an
opposing party.

CAPES CORSO, SAN LAZARO, kc.

165

The island of Margarita woald afford an excellent site for a deposit for naval stores.
Martello towers on the heads of the entrance would completely command it, and, ex<
cepting on the inside, no force could he landed.

Water would doubtless flow into wells, of which we had proof in spots where the wild
beasts had scraped holes ; but from some (no doubt removable) causes, it was intensely
bitter. There is nothing in the geological constitution of the hills to render it so.

The ranges of hills composing the three suites of mountains, vary from 1600 to
2000 feet."

Cape Oorao, 10^ miles N. W. by W. from Estrada point, is a bold rocky point,
fronted by a white sand bluff, which nearly encircles it, the coast between being a
succession of rocky points and iuterveuiug sand-beaches, the laud rising abruptly to a
height of 500 to 1600 feet. Mount Isabel, the highest point, is 1592 fe«t high.

CapaBontazaro is a high remarkable-looking headland of volcanio origin, which
can be seen for many miles, and when first made out has the appearance of an island.
It extends about 4 miles N. by W. and S. by E. and is 600 to 1300 feet high.
Its southern extremity is distant about 7^ miles N.W. i W. from cape Corso. The
coast recedes between these two points, forming the bay of Santa Maria, 8 miles deep,
where good anchorage may be found in 7 or 8 futhoms, a mile from the beach. The
land around the bay is low and sandy.

From capo San Lazaro the coast trends nearly North 77 miles to San Juanico point,
in about lat. 26° 3', From the former point to within 10 miles of the latter the coast
is merely n low sand-beach, with high land many miles in the interior ; thence north-
ward the laud is higher a short distance back.

In lat. 25° 16' there is a shallow entrance to the lagoo called Boca Soledad, and in
lat. 25° 30' another called Boca de San Domingo. Neither of these entrances can be
used except by boats or flat-bottomed vessels of light draught. Shoal water and
breakers extend off all these entrances, as indeed off the whole of this coast. Tho
soundings are 7 to 12 fathoms 2 or 3 miles from the beach, the entire distance
between the points.

Foint San Juanieo is low and sandy ; south-eastward of it is an open bay where ships
may anchor in 5 or 6 fathoms, a mile and a half from the beach, and find shelter from
the coast wind, avoiding the sand-spit which makes off about a mile to the southward of
the point.

Here is the entrance to the Sun Juanico lagoon, which is used by the small coasters,
carrying or 7 foet, at the highest spring tides. The lagoon extends inland several
miles, but is very shallow.

Foint San Domingo, 27 miles N.W. by W. i W. from point San Juauico, is a re-
markable perpendicular rocky cliff, of dark colour, the cliff extending several miles
above and below tlio point.

The coast between points San Juauico and San Domingo is formed chiefly of sand-
hills, 100 to 200 foet high, with high tabio-liiuds a few miles in the interior.

About 15 miles north-west from point Sau Juauico is a small cove, known as Peq^uena
bay, where a vessel may find shelter from the coast wind.

Sauanaa Bay. — From San Domipgo point the coast trends N.W. by W. -J W. for

166.

LOWER CALIFORNIA.

about 40 miles and then bende ronnd to the westward and southward, forming Ballenas
bay; this coast is low and sandy with several lagoons close behind the beach.

Ballenas bay is so named on account of its being a favourite resort of the hump-
back species of whale. The western limit of the bay is formed by Abreojos point, here-
after described. The soundings in it are reported to be regular and to extend a
considerable distance from the shore ; at less than a mile from the beach the depth is
asserted to be 8 fathoms, whence they increase gradually seaward. The bay affords no
shelter, as it is quite exposed to southward and south-westward, from which quarters a
heavy sea is sent in when the. wind blows with any force.

In the eastern part of Ballenas bay, in about lat. 26° 45', is the entrance to a ve^
extensive lagoon, which is probably deep enough in some parts to admit vessels drawi
not more than 12 feet at high water ; it is known as the San Ignacio lagoon,
principal branch is abon^^ 2 miles wide at its mouth ; after running northward for
8 miles, it turns a little to westward and doubles its width at C miles from the bar,
then gradually contracting it ends at 8 miles farther up, making the whole length
14 miles. A small branch, making from the south part of the entrance and taking a
more easterly course, rni' ■ through a low flat country 12 to 15 miles when it reaches a
high table land. Another small estero, 15 miles farther south, emptying into the sea,
joins the southern branch of the main Ingoon.

Near the head of this sheet of water are two islands, not more than 4 miles in length
and 1 in width ; both are very low. The upper island, on its highest part, has a growth
of trees and low bushes, which gives it a pleasant contrast with the surrounding
country. The southern island is quite barren. The face of the country, immediately
in the vicinity of this inland water, on either hand, is low, quite level, and extremely
barren ; a few stunted shrubs and trees are now and then met with, and a species of
rush grass is found in many places, but so scattered that no appearance of anything but
a sandy desert plain is seen a short distance from the shore. To the south-eastward
rises a long table-land, to the height of 1000 feet or more, and then comes a wild
mountainous country as far os the eye can see.

It is stated there is trail leading from this lagoon to another, called Ojo de Lievre,
the distance being 70 miles. The native name of this lagoon is Sana Maria. In a
northerly direction from its head, distant B5 miles, I'ises a mountuiu, showing three
swells of land at its summit ; it is called San Ignacio, and at its foot is a mission bear-
ing the same name. As this mountain is viewed from the coast, a still higher elevation
is seen, standing aloue, with rounded peak. At its base are hot sulphur springs.

The entrance to this fine body of water is shoal, narrow and extremely dangerous,
on account of the strong currents running in different directions at different stages of
the tide. A depth of 7 feet of water only is found at low tide ; the rise and fall is about
G feet. A heavy swell usually rolls on the bar at full and change of the moon, and it is
only practicable for small vessels of light draught. =«

At the head of the bay is the entrance to another lagoon which extends inland about
8 or 10 miles in a northerlv direction.

* See tlie Mercantile Marine Magazine, Vol. for 1860, from wliioh the description of tliio lAgoon
is chiefly taken. All the coast between Hagdalena bay and San Diego, io lat. 82° 41', is rery little
known, and is believnd to be very imperfectly delineated in the charts.

ABREOJOS POINT, &o.

167

The entrances to all of the lagoons above described, with the exception of that to
the San Ignacio lagoon, are narrow and shallow, being merely boat passages in smooth
weather ; heavy breakers and shoals extend off the mouths of all of them.

Abreojoa Point, the western point of Ballenas bay, is low and sandy ; its approximate
geographical position is lat. 26° 42', long. 118° 82'. A reef extends a short distance
south of the point, and many detached rocks on its eastern side.

A dangeroas reef is situated about G miles W.S.W. from Abreojos point ; the passage
between the reef and the point is dangerous and should be used with great caution. A
small rock known as the Whale rock, about 4 feet high, is on the inner end of the reef.
Shoal water makes off 2 or 8 miles south-east from the point. Indeed, the whole
locality is dangerous, and no vessel should approach this part of the coast nearer than
8 or 10 miles except by day, and then with caution.

About 6 miles north-westward of Abreojos point is the entrance to a small lagoon.

Ban Bipouto Point, W.N.W. 27 miles from Abreojos point, is low and sandy, with a
shoal making off to the southward and westward about a mile.

Ban Hipolito bay, immediately to the eastward of the point of the same name, is
formed by the coast falling away 3 or 4 miles between the points. The coast is low and
sandy, rising gradually to a height uf 200 feet, with table-lands of considerable eleva-
tion a few miles inland.

AsnncionBay. — From San Hipolito point to Asuncion islet, in about lat. 27° 6',
long. 114° 16', the distance is about 19 miles in a north-westerly direction. This islet
forms the western limit of Asuncion bay ; its north end is distant one mile S. by E.
from Asuncion point, a low bluff with a cone-shaped mound, 75 feet high at its outer
extremity, and moderately high hills a short distance inland.

Asuncion islet is about one mile in length, N. by W. and S. by E., and half a mile
wide. It is entirely barren, and is highest towards its southern end, where it reaches
100 feet. It is surrounded by detached rocks and kelp, and a reef extends nearly half
way across the passage between the island and the opposite point. This passage
carries 5 fathoms water, but should be used with caution and only in cases of emergency.

Asuncion bay is 3 to 4 miles deep and is said to afford good anchorage. The coast
is low and sandy between the points, table-lands of moderate elevation rising a short
distance inland. - '

San Boque Point, 7^ miles W. by N. ^ N. from Asuncion point, is a light-coloured
bluff 80 to 60 feet high. Between these points is the open bay of San Roque, the
shores of which are low, with table-lands a few miles inland. Two miles soutli-east of
San Roque point and about the same distance from the bottom of the bay lios San
Koque islet. It is a low rugged rock, about 10 feet high, partly covered with gravol
and light sand. It is about a mile long, N.W. and S.E., and a third of a mile wide.
The passage bciwocu the island and the luainiaud is lillcd with rocks and reefs, and is
Bnl'e only for bouts.

Point Ban Pablo, 5 uiiles N.W. } W. from San Roque point, is a dark slate-coloured
bluff, 636 feet high. In its vicinity a few miles in the interior are extensive table-
lands. To the northward and near it is a remarkable range of bare peaks 2000 to
2600 feet high, of variegated colour and great beauty, probably the range of mountains
named Sierra Pintada by Sebastian Viscaino, iu 1590.

^68

•LOWER CALIFORNIA.

Table mountain, 12 miles eastward of San Pablo point, is about 2200 feet high, and
jcan be seen many miles at sea.

Ban Pablo Bay, between points Ban Roque and San Pablo, is about 2 miles deep,
apparently free from all dangers, and affords good anchorage in 10 to 15 fathoms, half
a mile from shore.

Ban crutobai Bay. — From point San Pablo to Morro Hermoso, a bare rocky cliff in
lat. 27° 82', the distance is 25 miles in a N.W. ^ W. direction. Between these points
the coast recedes several miles, forming the open bay of San Cristobal, and consists
generally of bluff? and sand-cliffs, 50 to 100 feet high, the coast-range rising to a
height of several hundred feet, a short distance inland. The soil is of seyeral colours,
brown and gray predominating.

Thnrioe Head, 7 miles north-west of Morro Hermoso, is a long cliff, high, rocky,
and steep on the western side, with a more gradual slope on the south-eastern side, and
many outlying rocks and kelp in its vicinity.

BAIT BABTOZiOMB. — This bay, or harbour, is situated close to the northward of
Thurloe head ; it is 3 to 4 miles iu diameter; circular in its general form, and perfectly
land-locked in its south-eastern part, which is called Turtle bay. A reef of rocks runs
in a north-westerly direction about a mile from cape Tortolo, its eastern part of entrance,
eastward of which a ship may anchor in 5 to 8 fathoms, sheltered from every wind.

Cape Tortolo is a rocky point about 20 feot high, rising rapidly to an elevation of
425 feet. Mount Belcher, a mile south, is 436 feet high. The land about the bay
consists of high bluffs and is entirely barren, the Santa Clara range rising to an altitude
of 3000 feet a few miles in the interior. There is no indication of fresh water here.
It is high water, full and change, at 9h. 10m. ; springs rise 7 to 9 feet.

Kelp Foint, the north-west limit of the bay, is about SO feet high, with many out-
lying rocks, the whole surrounded with kelp. Mount San Bartolome rises to a height
of 850 feet a short distance from the point.

The geographical position of Kelp point, according to the observation? of Com. Dewey
U.S.S. Narrafjansett, 1874, is lat. 27° 3i)' 85", long. 114° 54' 27".

Respecting the bay of San Bartolome a writer in the Mercantile Mating Magazine,
18G0, says — " In the southern part of the bay of San Bartolome there is a fine
anchorage sheltered from all winds. The harbour is much frequented by the whalers,
who resort thither to cooper their oil, — or to pass a few days in fishing or catching
turtle. It is usually called ' Turtle bay,' by them. Wood may be procured here, in
case of extreme necessity, by searching for low green bushes in the level land about the
shores ; the roots are found running near the top of the ground and are 8 or 10 foot
long and often 6 inches through ; they burn readily, and produce the required heat.

At the time sailing vessels were plying between Panama and San FranoisQO,
occasionally some oftho number, in actual distress for many of the nepessary articles (jf
provisions, put into port San Bartolome, hoping to have their wants, to some extent
relieved. One vessel is said to have anchored hero with nearly all her crew dowgwith
the scurvy, and several of them died. Numbers of hapless adventurers have founii
a final resting-place along the shore of the inner bay, and on an islet that breaks the
pcean swell in front of the harbour. Hero are found grave-boards, some rudely (carvcd,

tarn

GKRROS ISLAND, 169

giving the date of interment ; Qther graves are only marked by rough stones, and
countless nnmbers of sea-birds nightly cover the ground above them."

Abont 6 miles north-westward from Kelp point is Breaker point, about 20 feet high,
off which are many detached rocks, over which the sea breaks heavily. Thonce the
coast trends north-westerly about 10 miles to Ban Eugeuio point.

Point BanBngcnio is the extreme west point of the lofty promontory which forms the
southern side of the great bay of Sebastian Yiscaino ; its approximate geographical
position is lat. 27° 50' 80", long. 115° 3'.

Point San Engenio is low, dark and rocky, projecting toward Natividad island ; from
it a reef extends a quarter of a mile W.S.W., and another somewhat longer of rocks
above water in a N. by E. direction. A small rock, covered with guauo, and known as
Chester islet, lies about a mile noiihward of the point ; another smaller rock is situated
between it and the point.

CBBBOs zsZiAND. — From point San Eugenie to Morro Redondo, the southernmost
point of Cedros, or Cerros island, the distance is 12^ miles, and direction N.W. i N.

Morro Redondo is a rocky cliff about 80 feet high, with many outlying rocks, and a
round hill or cone of moderate elevation just behind it ; its approximate geographical
position is lat. 28° 2', long. 115^ 9'.

There is good anchorage northward of Morro Redondo, in from 7 to 10 fathoms,
sandy bottom, half a mile from the beach. About 5 miles northward of Morro Redondq
on the east side of the island, is an excellent watering place. It may be recognised by
a patch of tall rank grass behind a sand-beach about 250 feet in length, and the only
one in that vicinity. It is about a mile southward of the easternmost point of the
island, and the first arroyo to the southward.

The depth at less than a mile from the island is about 40 luuuoms, with the excep-
tion that a bank of 5 to 10 fathoms extends 8 miles south from its south-east point in
the direction of the west end of Natividad island, and to nearly the middle of the
channel between, them.

Cedros island is 18 to 22 miles in length, N. by W. and S. by E., and 8 tq 8 mile^
in width. It is a high, barren island, of volcanic origin, and evidently contains much
mineral wealth. Occasionally in the valleys there are a few stunted bushes and a little
coarse rank grass. The highest peak, near the spnthern partof the island, is 8955 feet
high, and may be seen on a clear day 60 miles.

In the Mercantile Marine Mayasine, Vol. for 1800, is the following account of
Cerros island : —

'< Cerros is an island of mountains throughout its whole extent, being a mass of high,
abrupt peaks, the highest of which is 2500 feet above the level of the sea, and may be
distinctly seen, in clear weather, 60 miles. On a near approach, t'ae sombre barreq
appeaiauco of all brought to view is anything but inviting. Many of the southern
slopes present a dark red hue, interspersed with high variegated cliffs, that give a little
change to the otherwise dull scene. On lauding, one is at once fully sensible of the
extreme dry atmosphere prevailing; still there must be, occasionally, heavy rains,
produciug mountain torrents, which have cut their way through the sand and grave|
bottoms that skirt the Bouthern bases. These, however, are of rare occurrence, for

170

LOWER CALIFORNIA.

whalers best acqaainted with the island, who have been living temporarily there, or
along the noighboaring coast for the last 6 or 6 years, have never known it to be
visited by anything more than light rains, and those at long intervals.

On the N.E. side, at about 8 miles from the extreme north end, a low sandy point .
makes out ; southward of this is good anchorage during the prevailing coast winds.
In a ravine near it, is a small stream of fresh water ; and likewise in several of the
valleys leading from the shore line, to the southward, water rany be found within a
mile of the beach. At one of these places it is of excellent quality. The only practi-
cable place, however, for a ship to obtain a large supply, is on the S.E.^side, where
there is a spring running among rushes at the foot of a high peak close to the shore.
Tbe jasks are filled by placing them within a few feet of the running stream, and con-
ducting the water into them by means of a rough wooden spout, on the side of which
are the words: — 'Whoever uses this will please to put it in its proper place, for the
benefit of those who may come for water.'

Anchorage may be had off this spring, within two cables of the shore, in 20 fiithoms
of water; but a mnch better place for a ship to lie is 2 m'les farther south, off a low
shingle beach — where it is not so deep, and the gusts that come down the mountains,
when the wind is from the west, are not nearly so heavy as at the other anchorage.

A vessel can always find shelter from the N.W. winds on the south side of tbe
island, in depths varying firom 6 to 25 fathoms ; these winds blow with the regularity
of a ' trade,' from May to October, and the only precaution to be kept in mind in
choosing an anchorage is to avoid fixed kelp. From October to May the winds are
generally light and the weather delightful. Occasionally s strong 'norther,' or a light
S.E. gale, blows the first part of the winter, and strong gales from the N.W. again set
in about the Ist of May.

It is said by those well versed in such things, that there is every indication of ex-
tensive mineral deposits, in the shape of quartz rock and copper, scattered over many
parts of GerroG island. Whether they really exist there remains to be proved."

Ban Smito Island*. — Nearly 20 miles N.W. by W. from cape San Augustin, the
south-western extremity of Gedrcs island, are the San Benito islands, a. group of three
small barren rocks, extendinr^ about 8 miles east and west, and one mile noiih and
soath. The westernmost is the largest; it is a circular, flat-topped island, about 200
feet high, with a mound in the centre about 650 feet high. At its north-east end is a
low point running out a quarter of a mile to the westward. The middle islpnd is low,
and about two-thirds of a mile long, east and west. There is a narrow passage filled
with rocks between this and the western island. The eastern island is about a mile
long, north and south, and has a peak on its northern end about 500 feet high.
There is a boat passage between this and the middle island, a quarter to half a mile
wide,^with several rocks, some above water. The islands are surrounded with kelp
and detached rocks.

The geographical position of the summit of the largest (western) San Benito island,
according to the observations of Com. Dewey, U.S.S. Narrayanaett, 1874, is lat.
28" 18' 8", long. 115° 86' 10".

There is^anchorage south-east of the western island, in 12 fathoms, sandy bottom,

SEBASTIAN VISCAINO BAY.

171

ontside the kelp; and a good landing on tbe north-east side of the same island on a
shingle beach northward of a red rook.

Two sharp pinnacle rocks, with only 6 feet water on them, are situated 1^^ miles
W. by S. from the monnd on the western island. They are about SO feet apart N.E. and
S.W. ; the southern one about 80 feet and the northern one 10 feet in length on ton,
and 2 to 4 feet wide. The sea breaks on them in all weathers. At 100 feet east of
the rocks the depth is 12 fathoms, and no bottom at 20 fathoms at any other place
around them at the same distance.

HatlTidad Island. —From Monro Bedondo the eastern point of Natividad island
bears S. by E. } E. 10^ miles. There is a clear passage 8 miles in width between
Cedros and Natividad islands, with 16 to 80 fathoms water (excepting the 5 to
10-fathom patch already alluded to). This passage is kno vn as Eellet channel.

Natividad island is about 4^ miles in length N.W. and S.E., and half a mile to a
mile and a half in width, being widest at the south-eastern ( xtremity. It is of moderate
elevation, hilly, entirely barren, and surrounded with keip. The highest part is near
the western end, and is about 500 feet. This part ii- very rocky, having a reef running
rut, mostly under water, connecting it with an islet known as Maria rock. In fact,
the channel is almost entirely surrounded by rocks above and under water.

E.N.E. from the southern part of the island is a square flat-topped rock, about
25 feet high, connected with the island by a reef, upon which the sea breaks continually.

Sail rock, 40 feet high, lies about 2 cables ofif the southern point of tbe island ; ofif it
a reef, on which the sea breaks occasionally, extends S. by W. half a mile.

s«w«T Obumai, between Natividad island and the mainland, is 4 miles wide. On
the Natividad side there is much foul ground. A 8-fathom shoal, having 9 and 10
fathoms around, lies about 1^ miles East from the south end of Natividad island. The
sea breaks over this shoal only at long intervals in fine weather. A large field of kelp
stretches off for several miles southward of point San Eugenio.

In using this channel, keep about a mile and a half from the point, until the kelp-
patch is passed, then steer parallel with the coast.

sxsBAsTi&i? xnsOAXSto BAT. — At point San Eugenio, already described (pagel69)
the coast suddenly turns eastward and after continuing in that direction many miles,
gradually curves northward and north-westward and forms with Cerros island tbe great
bay of Sebastian Yiscaino, the entrance to which, between Cerros island and the north-
east coast of the mainland, is aboct 50 miles in width.

Tbe coast immediately eastward of point San Eugenio is rocky and mountainous,
the mountains being near the shore. As the entrance to Scammon or Ojo de Lievre
lagoon, about 40 miles eastward of the point, is approached, the coast gradually becomes
lower and more sandy. The mouth of this lagoon is in about lat. 27° 54', long.
114° 16', it is recognised by white sand-bluffs on each side, SO to 40 feet high.
Extensive shoals extend off hereabout in a northerly direction, only 4 fathoms water
being found 6 miles from the land.

From the mouth of Scammon lagoon the coast, consisting of a low sand-beach, with
numerous hillocks 10 to 80 feet high, trends N.E. by N. 16 miles to the entrance of
the Black V/arhor lagoon. Shoals make off for a long distance north-west of the

172

LOWER CALIFORNIA.

entrance of the lagoon, the depth at 5 miles from the land being only 4 fathoms, with
heavy breakers within. Another lagoon, known as the Mannela or upper lagoon, lien
a few miles farther northward, having its entrance about 4 miles southward of Lagoon
head.

Xiagoon H«ad, in about lat. 28° 14', long. 114° 5', is a lofty headland; its highest
peak is 474 feet above the sea, and visible at a distance of 30 or 40 miles in clear
weather. When viewed from a distance of a few miles at sea it looks like an island,
as the low land inside it cannot be seen.

From Lagoon head the coast turns abiiiptly to the eastward about 2 miles, B'veeping
gradually to the southward, and forming a small op«n bay, which affords good anohorag*
anywhere near the land, in !3 to 9 fathoms, sandy bottom.

High land extends about 2 miles east to a point near the northern end of the upper
lagoon ; thence, to the eastward and southward, extensive plains and marshes stretch
away to the great lagoons, high mountain-ranges being visible in the interior.

The following description of the lagoons in Sebastian Yist; ''no bay 's extracted from
the Nautical Magazine, I860; —

"The coast of Lower California, from San Geronimo island to the great lagoon,
trends Li.E., presenting a nearly unbroken range of rugg«d mountains, scantily clothed
with cedar trees, but in many places barren of all verdure; and, to judge by the
appearance from seaward, unfit for human habitation. For about 30 miles the sierra
closes on the sea, throwing out bold rocky promontories, offering no shelter for vessels,
although promising deep water close in shore. Hero and there long stretches of white
sandy beach appear, on which the surf rolls heavily. Following the coast down to
where Cerros island bears about 8.W., a headland will be observed in the main land,
known by the name of Lagoon head, from rising abruptly out of a low country which
is passed after leaving the mountain ridges already mentioned. This headland is high
find black like a hummock, but appears to have no other elevations inland from it.

Immediately southward of this is a lagoon about 10 miles long by 7 broad, to which
no name has yet been given. It was entered by whale-boats, and partially explored;
but there is not depth enough for a ship to pass over tho bar, ou which a heavy surf
breaks in westerly winds. The land subsides again into a low marshy country from
Lagoon head for about 12 miles, when, in following the coast to the S.E., the mouth
of a second and larger kgoon is opened. This is about 15 miles long by 8 wide, and
has depth of water suthcient to ffoat a ship ; but the bar is very dangerous. It is
known as the Ban Domingo lagoon. Navigators will bo very apt to mistake this or the
first one for the big or whaling lagoon (that named Ojo do Lievrc); but care should be
taken to pass by two entrances before standing in for the land. The whaler Black
Warrior was lost at the mouth of this second lagoon, wliilo uttumpting to enter, haviug
uiistaken it for tiie largo one, whicii is kIiII turthor soutliward. On leaving Lagoon
bead, a ship may stand along 3t a distance of miles from the bei^ch, keeping ii^ about
7 fathoms water.

After passing the second Ingonn, al)ont 10 milos from the head, the outer breakers
^t the entrance of the big 'iigoon may bo plainly seen, as well as those on the bar,
jltretohing 4 or 6 miles seaward ; keeping inside pf il^ese the inner breakers wiU apptwiF

SEBASTIAN VISCAINO BAY.

178

iti siiore, aod the chaDnel lies midway between the two lines. This channel may be
plainly seen, it opens gradually, shoaling until on the bar, which has 2 fathoms at low
water and 8 at high water spring tides, and is from half a mile to 1 mile wide. The
bar is about a quarter of a mile across, a.ud when passed, the water rapidly deepens to
4, 6, and 6 fathoms, xhe entrance is then plainly visible, formed by two sandheads,
about 80 feet in height. The deepest water is midway between the heads, after passing
which the right hand shore should be kopt aboard, and with the lead going there will
be no difficulty in running into the lagoon.

This lagoon (Ojo de Lievre) was first entered by Captain Scammon in the spring of
1866. While whaling in Magdalena bay, a Mexican informed him of it, but never
having been there, he was unable to describe its situation, although he judged from
the low character of the country and the receding of the mountains in that direction,
that the lagoon must be there. Ho accordingly set out on an exploring expedition,
and first struck the small or northern one, which with the next, he partially explored,
and was three days getting down to the big one, the approach to which looked very
dangerous to a stranger. Having sounded the channel with his boats, ho took his ship
in. The explorations which have thus far been made lead to the supposition that these
three lagoons weiO, at one time, a single body of water, and it is thought that, owing
to the marshy character of the country, there may still be, during the rainy season,
communication by sloughs or branches ; but this is not known. The mountains, with
their serrated ireaks, traversing the Lower California peninsula, generally close with
the coast, either within a few miles of the beach, or from jutting headlands washed by
tbu waves of th« ocean. The chain opposite to where the lagoon is, turns inland about
20 luiles, u);t>ning a sort of amphitheatre, forming the bed of the lake, whicb id tilled
from the ocean, lud the only inlet or outlet to which, thus far discovered, is the
entrance already described. A small space of rising land intervenes between the
western border and the foothills of the mountains, which are wooded in a few places,
but appear generally to be sterile and valueless.

Around the borders of tlie lugoou are ranges of sand hills, extending in every direc-
tion, being apparently the collection of agos, drifted in from the ocean. This feature
gives to the vicinity an aspect somewhat similar to that of the ocean beach opposite
San Francisco, but without tiio rocks and headlands. These sands are ever moving,
ftnd changing, in consequence of being thu^ driven by the fierce ocean winds. A boat
which was left for a few days near the southern border of the lagoon was completely
filled with sand, and would, in another week, have been entirely hidden from sight by
it. Of course no trees nor herbage c*" any kind exists there, nor can any kind of
eultivatiou be carried on. Changes in tiie face of the country are going on constantly.
Logs of redwood, 8 or 4 feet in diamator, are even found half covered over by sand,
and sometimes several miles from the water. Those are evidently of Oregon growth,
and have either been tlivowu into th« ir present position by the surf, in some tremen-
dous storm, or being onee lodged on the beach, the sands have encroached on the
water, leaving the logs far inland in the course of time. Their presence is accounted
for by flurrents setting down from the northward. Fresh-water and wood are very
aoaroo, atul should an unhap^v wayfarer chance to get lost in these trackless wilds,
•tArvation would bo inevitable. Sevarnl iustanoeg of this are very well known.

174

LOWER CALIFORNIA.

The lagoon from its entrance expands at once into a vast sheet of water. In every
direction nothing is to be seen on the shore but scrab bnshos and stunted grass. To
tue southward, a small lagoon, about 8 miles in extent, is connected with the larger
one, and is navigable. It is known as fort Lagoon, but whales seldom go into it. The
iagouu contains several islands, covered with stunted grass and weeds, with the ex-
ception of two, which are supposed to contain guano, although this conclusion is not
yet well established. The distance from the bar to the western border is between
80 and 40 miles, but counting the northern lagoons already described, and which are
believed to have been at one time a portion of the main one, this body of water would
be upwards of 70 miles in extent. The breadth is between 20 and 80 miles. In every
part, except close to the shore, may be found from 2 to 6 fathoms, and good anchorage
everywhere."

Santa Boaaiia Bay, about 20 miles northward of Lagoon head, affords good anchorage
with northerly winds. The point forming the southern limit of the bay is low and
dangerous, rocks and shoals making off from it at least a mile ; its approximate
geographical position is lat. 28° 84', long. 114° 7'.

A short distance northward of Rosalia point is a small bare rock about 40 feet high
known as Elide island. There is a little guano on it, and it is covered with sea-fowl
and seals. It lies about half a mile from the mainland, and there is an anchorage on
its south-east side.

From Rosalia point to Maria point, 22 miles N.W. i W., the coast is moderately
low, with high ranges of hills a short distance back. It is a succession of points with
shallov bays mterveniug.

l»aTla''Foint is low and rocky, with sand-hills rising to a height of about 80 feet a
quarter of a mile inland ; when seen from southward it appears as a dark low point,
with a red coue (Gone point) above it. Its approximate geographical position is lat.
28° 54' 80", long. 114° 29'.

Tiaya Maria Bay. — This bay lies to the south-eastward of Maria point, between it
and Bluck point; it is about 6 miles in width and 2 miles iu depth. Black point is a
low dark rock, backed by white sand a short distance inland.

The land about the bay is low and sandy, and as barren as most of this coast.
A hill, known as Station peak, 260 feet high, is situated near the head of the bay.

There is good anchorngo iu G fathoms, about a milo from the beach, where a nhip
mny lind'sholtor from the northerly coast winds. It is high water, full and change,
at Uh. 20m,; springs rise 7 to 9 foot.

Gone Point' •i\ niilos N.W. by W. J W. from Maria point, is a r.imarkable red cone
200 foot high, with.niuny detached and outlying rocks extending of about half a mile
to the southward. When first seen from the northward it looks liko an island. Falsa
bay lies between Coue and Maria points.

Blanco Point, 17 i miles north-westward of Cone point, is a perpendicular sand-cliff
about 100 feet. high with the coast rongejust behind. The intervening coast is a
succession of points and bays, one of which, Blanco bay, affords good anchorage with
a northerly wind. In about lat. 20° 11' ia a rock, 20 feet high, situated close to
the shore.

Oanoaa Point is about 24 miles W.N.W. iVom cape Blanoc ; it is a porpondicnlar

SAN GIlRONIMO ISLET, &c.

175

sand-bluff about 224 feet high. The const between thes" ^.vyiuis recedes about 5 miles,
forming an extensive open bay, known as Cauoas bay.

San Antonio Point, in about lat. 29° 45', long. 115° 40', is distant about 85 miles
W.N.W. f/om Canoas point. The intervening coast consists of sand-bluffs, and is
vaf1>er iower near San Antonio than at Canoas point. High table-lands rise imme-
diately from the coast to a height of 1000 to 2000 feot.

Sacramento Beef, on which the P.M.S.S. Co. steamer Sacramento, was lost in 1878,
bears S.W. by W. i W. 8^ miles from point San Antonio. It is about a mile in
length, north-west and south-east, and half a mile wide. The aijproximate geographical
position of the centre of the reef is lat. 28° 44', long. 115° 44'. There are several
rocks awash and above water, and the sea constantly breaks over them. The reef is
surrounded by thick kelp, which extends nearly to San Gcronimo island (8^ miles
N.W. i N. from it) and about half way to poini San Antonio, between which and the
reef there is a passage with 6 to 12 fathoms water. Although there if shoal water for
many miles southward of the island, there are no indications of ro'^ks or reefs; still
there may be many bidden dangers, and a vessel should not approach this part of the
coast without using grtat caution and sounding before running through the thick kelp.

San aeronlmo. — This islet lies about 5^ miles W. by N. i N. from point San
Antonio, is about a mile in length, N.N.E. and S.S.W., and a third of a mile wide.
Seen from northward it shows three hills of moderate elevation, the highest 170
feet, and it is low at both ends. The island is covered in many places with a mixture
of sand and guano. It is surrounded by kelp and outlying rocks, except on the south-
east side at the foot of the higkust peak, where there is a small shingle-beach.

There is a passage about 4 miles in width between the island and the mainland ;
but it should not be used, excopt in cases of great emergency, as kelp covers nearly
the entire space, and no doubt covers many hidden dangers.

The geographical position of San Gcronimo island, according to the observations of
Com. Dewey U.S.S. Xdmii/nnsett 1874, is lat. 29° 47' 5", long. 115° 47' 44".

Roaario Bay. — The coast betwccu point San Antonio and point Baja, 14 miles
N.W. i N., recedes a few miles and forms near the latter point an open bay named
Rosario. Here vessels may find protection from the coast winds. The country about
the head of the buy near point Diija is fertile and cultivated, and supplies of vegetables,
fresh beef, and water may be obtained there. The old mission of Rosario is a few miles
inland.

There is a reef and line of kelp extending a short distance southward from point Baja,
and vessels entering the bay of Rosario sliouid givo it a good berth.

Oapa San Quentin is distant 251 miles N.W. by N. from point Bnjn. The interven-
ing coast is for tlio most part low and sandy, especially in the vicinity of San Quentin
bay ; tliore aro high hills a slxirt distance inland.

Mount Mayo, tlie highest part of the cape, is 210 feet in height, and is in the centre
of the peninsula forming the western side of port San Quentin. Entrada point, the
eaateruniost point of the peninsula, is low and rocky but may bo approached within a
quarter of a mile. Thcnco westward the coast is of similar character with numerous
projecting points and outlying rocks ovor which the sea breaks heavily. Reef point,
the westernmost point of tho head, is dangerous to approach, as numerous rocks, above
and under water, lio off it.

176

LOWER CALIFORNIA.

Fort Ban Qnentin. — The land about port San Qnentin is low and sandy, and entirely
without vegetation. The five remarkably placed mountains qf volcanic origin, on the
north side of the bay, caused one of the early navigators to call this the " Bay of Five
Hills." These mountains are from 800 to 1100 foet high, except the western end
previously mentioned, which has an altitude of 4^60 feet.*

No vessel drawing over 12 feet should attempt to enter this bay without either buoy-
ing the channel or sending a boat ahead, as the channel usually shifts with every
south-east gale, and i^ narrow and tortuous with not over 8 fathoms on the bar. For
omall vessels it is a most excellent harbour, affording perfect protection from every
wind.

To enter the port, steer for Entrada point (the last rocky point passed in entering),
giving it a berth of a quarter of a mile ; then steer N.W. about 4 cables, until you pass
a sand-spit making out between Entrada and Sextant points ; then head up forthelatter
point W. by N., passing it close to, as the channel at this place is very narrow.

Sextant point is low and sandy. After passing it, follow the shore-line, and anchor
in 5 or 6 fathoms half a mile inside the point.

The approximate geographical position of Entrada point,- on the western side of the
entrance to San Quentin bay, is lat. 80° 22', long. 115" 57'.

Ban Martin Zalan .. — About 10 miles north-west of cape Sun Qnentin and 2.^ miles
off the coast (which is here cliffy, 200 foot higli) is San Martin island ; there is a clear
passage between it and the mainland, carrying 10 to 15 fathoms water, apparently
free from all dangers.

San Martin island is of volcanic origin, nearly circular in form, and is about 2 miles
in extent in an east and west direction. It is quite barren, producing nothing but the
prickly pear, and a little stunted brush growing among the rocks. The highest peak
is 600 feet and is the crater of an extinct volcano, its diameter being 850 feet and its
depth about 40 feet.

There is good iineliorngc on thesouth-cast aide of the island, off the mouth of a small
lagoon ; and a bettor ouo on the north-oast side, in a snug little cove, named Hasslcr
cove, where a ship may anclior in 8 or 9 fathoms protected from all winds except those
from north. The eastern side of the cove is formed by huge boulders which extend off
to the northward, making an excellent breakwater.

The geographical position of the anchorage on the north-east side of San Martin
island, according to the observations of Com. Powey U.S.S. Nnrnv/nnsftl, 1874, is
lat. 80° 29' 4", long. 110° 0' 80".

Jienn Itock lies S. \ W. 8^ miles from the eastern end of San Martin island. It
lias from 9 to 12 foet water on it with 5 fathoms close to, and no bottom at 17 fathoms
2 cables from it. The sea does not break on it in moderate weather.

The coast between San Martin iHliind and Reef point (the western point of capo
San Quentin) is formed of low sand-hiilH, except at about 5 miles to the northward of
the point where one of the "Five HIHb " borders directly on the sea.

* Tbig port is of no couniieniial importftiico, and in very rnroly viRitod. It was surveyed in 1889 by
Captain Sir £. Bolohor, R.N., and a plan (No. 1U'J4) of it waRsiibipquontly publielicd.

/a« page 111

TODOS/ SANTOS

^ ■•% ^ "

:« Solidadllff'iPD' „ ^ •

%,ri.ofMhin\.i«± Santo Tomas F?

_-,^_ — —

ANCHCKAGE OK

SANTO TOMA.S

^SSk

Nautdc MU«

I.ONUOK, Jiuucti Inirftv X- Sou.

TODOS SANTOS ISLANDS, &c.

177

' Ban samon Bay. — Foar miles northward of San Martin island is the bay of San
Bamou, formed by a slight indentation in the coast-line, which is here of low sand-hillg
50 to 100 feet high. At the soathern extremity of this bay, extending 2^ miles, is a
remarkable perpendicular cliff of dark rock 150 to 200 feet high.

The coast northward of San Martin island for about 20 miles is low and sandy ; the
water shoal, with heavy surf off the part northward of Ramon bay. Thence to cape
Goluett the coast is skirted by numerous fields of kelp making off 3 or 4 miles from
the land.

Cape ooinett, distant 30 miles N.W. f N. from San Martin island, is a remarkable
headland, nearly semicircular in form, with perpendicular cliffs 100 to 350 feet high,
of a dark-coloured rock (nearly black), on a bed of light saudstuue, the coast retaining
the same appearance for about 10 miles northward. The cape bearing E.N.E., distant
7 miles, shows dark with yellow sand beyond.

Ooinett Bay. — From cape Goluett the coast trends north-eastward for a short dis*
tance, forming Coluott buy, where good anchorage may be found in to 8 fathoms,
sandy bottom, sheltered from northerly winds.

The geograpliiciil position of the head of Colnett bay, according to the observations
of Com. Dewey, U.S.S. J^arragansett, 1874, is lat. 30° 57' 30", long. 110° 17' 22".

Point soiedad is distant 41 miles N.W. by N. from cape Colnett. The coast
between these points recedes several miles and is generally low, rising rapidly inland.
Point Soiedad is low and rocky, rising abruptly to a height of 500 feet. Southward
of the point, near two houses, there is good anchorage in fi'om 8 to 10 fathoms,
sheltered from the coast wind.

Soiedad rocks, one mile west of the point, arc of small extent. They are 20 feet
high, and surrounded by kelp. There is a clear passage between them and Soledud
point, keeping clear of the kelp on both sides.

Point Banda, 12 miles N.W. ^ N. from poiut Soiedad, is the extremity of a pro-
montory forming the southern side of Todos Santos bay. It is high, the highest peak
being 500 feet, with outlying rocks extending three-quarters of a mile iu a north-
westerly direction.

The coast between point Holcdad and Danda point is high and precipitous, with deep
water close-to. There is a whaling-station about 3 miles eastward of Bauda point, in
the bay, with a good uncliorage sheltered from all winds, except those from westward.

The channel between poiut Banda and Todos Santos islands is about 3 miles wide
and free from all dungors, except the outlying rocks off poiut Banda mentioned above.

Todoa Santos lelanda, diistant about 3 miles N.W. ^ W. from Banda point, front
the buy of the snnie name. Tliey extend about 2 miles iu a north-west and south-east
direction. The western one is about one mile iu length, cast and west, a quarter of a
mile wide, and 30 to GO feet high ; the eastern one is about the same length, north-
west and south-east, half a mile wide, and 250 feet high. Both are -surrounded by
detached rocks and kelp ; there is a boat-passage between them.

Todos Bantoa Bay. — Cape San Miguel, the northern limit of Todos Santos bay, is
high and bold. Thence to Euceuada poiut, a distance of about miles E. by S., the
coast is bold, with cliffs 60 to. 200 feet high. There is u largo field of kelp near
Euoeuttda poiut, with IU fathoms water at its southern end.

178

LcrwEft oaliforkia.

From Eaeenada pomt, which is 870 feet high, the coast recedes id a north-eastefly
direction, forming a snng little anchorage, where yeRsels may anchor in 9 to

7 fathoms, sandy bottom, perfectly sheltered from all winds, except those from tbcr
Boath-west.

From the west end of the ssnd-beaeh, where it joins the bloffs of Eucenada point,
the land sweeps aronnd to the sonfhward and westward to point Banda, which i^
8| miles distant, and is the southern limit of Todos Santos bay. The land at the head
of the bay is low and sandy, and the soundings, at the distance of one mile, artf

8 to 6 fathoms.

The geographical position of the anchorage at the noi-th-east eofner of Todos Santotf
bay, aocordmg to Com. Dewey, U<S<S. Narraganaett, 1&74, is lat. 31° 51' 26", long.
\U' 87' 55",

From cape San Miguel the coast trends N.W. by W. 12 miles to point Sal-si-
Paedes, and consists of samd-blafiTs and rocky cliffs about 50 feet high, with high hills
JHst back ; the mountain range a few miles bland presents the appearance, howeTer/
to one a few miles at sea, of being immediately on the coast.

Oap« Smeaaae is about 16 miles N.W. ^ N. from point Sal-si-pnedes. The coast
between these points is generally sandy, with an oceasionel rocky cliff, and monntaintf
rising a short distance inland.

Southward of Descanso point the land recedes somewbitt, fm-ming l>escanso bay^
Sngar-loaf rock in the middle of the bay bears S.E^ i E. 2^ miles from Descanso'
point ; it is a small low rock about 15 feet bi,^, and aj^arantly the only danger here-
about. There is an anchorage southward c^ the roek which i» often used by the smal)
coastenr.

Boundary Monument. — About 16j miles N.W. by N. from Descanso point is a table
bluff rising from the low land south of San Diego bay, upon which is a monumeni
marking the western point of the boundary between Mexico and the Biiited States. It
consists of an obelisk of white marble, about 20 feet in height, resting u[)on a pede8tal.r
It stands near the edge of the bluff, about 200 yants frooa the shore, and its position
is lat. 82° 81' 58", long. 117° 6' 11". Theuce the const is low aud A\t, running
N. by W. for about 7 miles, and then curving gni-Tuitlfy westward until it is nearly
East and West at the entrance of San Diego bay. lu tint interior arc high mountains^

Between Descanso point and the mominieut the coast is gcncmlly bl'ui)', 50 to 80 feet
high, with a range of hilU about 500 feet high » few miles inland and a range of moun-
tains at the back of tbem. One of these, the Table mouutuin, 2800 feet high, \9
remarkable ; another, a triple-peaked mountain a few miles south, is 2700 feet high.

OOBONAOOB xsaTS. — These roeky islets, belonging to Me»iee,'lie about 7 miles frony
the coast ; the largest of them is ia lat. 82° 28' 4(V', long. 117° 18' 21 '. They fornr
a group of high, botd, and abrupt roeks and islets, of which thclttrgeBt(16 miles S. by E,
fi*iHn ]>oiut Loma, San Diego) is aboat 2^ miles in length by a third of a mile in
breadth, lying in a N.W. and S.E. direction. It is a wedge-shaped mass, 800 feet
high, entirely destitute of treeti. At about a quarter of a mile eastward of the islet
there is anchorage ; and, there is but one landing place upon it, which is difficult.

On the west and north-west sides of the large islet, half a mile distant, are twv

SAN DIEGO.

179

stuailer ialets, or rather masses of rock about 50 feet high, and destitute of vegetatidu.
Bxcellent anchorage is said to exist in the vicinity. Another islet, the outermost, lies
N.W. by W. distant 2^ miles from the large islet ; it is a hugh barren rock, about a
mile in extent; tvith a very sharp summit.

Point Loma and XAght. — Point Loma is the termination of a remarkable narrow spur
of coarse, crumbling sand-stone, which rises South of Puerto Falso, or False bay, and
west of the town of San Diego, to the height of 800 fe6t, and after stretching south for
about 5^ inilesi gradually increasing in height to 422 feet, terminates very abruptly;
It is covered with coarse grass; cacti, wild sage, and low bushes. Upon point Loma
is a lighthouse, consisting of a dark grey tower, from which is exhibited a. fixed white
light, at 492 feet above the Sea, visible 25 miles. Its geographical position is lati
82° 40' 14", long. 117" 14' 88".*

BAN Dmoo. — The port of 3an Diego is formed on the nest side by a bold projecting
point of land, of which the southern extiremity is named point Loma ; and, on the east
side by low flat land covered with thick bushesand grass, named the ' island ', although
it is really a peninsula — being connected to the eastern shore by a very low and narrow
strip of beach.f

Next to that of San FrunciscU, no hai^bour on the Pacific coast of the United States
approximates in excellence that of the bay of Sau Diego. It is readily distinguished^
easily approached, and a depth of 22 feet can be carried over the bar, which is three-
quarters of a mile east of the southern extremity of point Loma, and between it and the
tail of the Zuniuga shoal: The width of the bar is about 8 cables from the outer to
the inner 5-fathom lines;

Vessels coming from ndrth-westward make the ridge of point Loma as a long, flat-
topped island, when about 25 iniles distant. This appearance is occasioned by the
bay to thd south-west, by the low land to the north-east, and by the Puerto Falso at
the north;

A thick field of kelp lies along the western shore of point Loma; the inner edge
being but one mile ofi* shore, and having a breadth of half a mile; The outer edge
marks the line where the depth of water suddenly changes from 20 to 10 fathoms.
The field couiraencre oft' the b.ar at the entrance to False bay, and stretches southward
*i'i miles south of point Loma; Approaching the south end of Loma, along the outer
vd^e of the ktilp, puss through a ])artial break in it, and when the point bears N;Ei
Ih- l<)., distant U niiieSi keep tilung the northern edge of the kelp in 4^ fathoms, and
about half n niilu from the point;

* The longitiKlo above i<ivon is tliat adopted by tha United States Ooast Survey, 1879. Coui.
George Dewey, U.S.N., 1874, assUiucB the longitude of point Loma to b« ll7° 9' 40', and all hia
positiouB on the coast of Lower Citlifurnia given iii this publidation, are dependent on that assump-
tion.

f Bee the plan of the harbour of San Diego on the chart of the coast of California, issiied by tlie'
pablisherB of this woik (Messrs. Imrat and Son). In this chart are inserted plans of most of thd
harbours on the coaat between capo Corrientes and Snn Francisco. The port of San Diego is frddtuJ
bj) « bar whiob is tolerably pormaneiit in its gffiieral foatureB ; the instruotiunB here giTeu far it iH
ttom the United States Coast Survey lUport for 18<i2.

180

COAST OF CALIFORNIA.

As soon as the point is passed, a long, low beach of shingle is opened, making out
from the east side of the point and forming a natural breakwater, formerly called Pnnta
de Guiranas * by the Spaniards, but now designated as Ballast point.

Round up gradually until Ballast point is brought in range with the easternmost
house of La Playa (distant one mile from Ballast point and on the same side of the
bay), and be careful not to open more of the village, as the shoal called Barros de
Zuningo f stretches south from the east side of the entrance, parallel to the ridge of
point Loma, and distant only three-quarters of a mile from it. Between point Loma
and this shoal runs the channel, which is less than half a mile wide within the 8-fathom
lines. With the least swell the breakers show the position and extent of the shoal,
and at low tides part of it is bare. It has been said that a rock, having bat 6 or
6 feet of water npon it, lies in the channel ; its position being marked by a patch of
kelp, which is, however, torn away in heavy weather. The pilot boat Fanny reported
being upon it in 1851, but the examinations of the Coast Survey have developed no
Bach danger, and the report has been, generally discredited.

During the summer keep as close to point Loma as the draught of the xeewel will
permit, and lay on the Tfind up to Ballast point, off which 4 fathoms can be carried
within a ship's length, with 10 fathoms in mid-channel, and a very strong current od
the ebb and flood tides ; the former setting over the Znninga shoal. After passing
Ballast point steer for La Playa, and anchor anywhere in from 4 to 10 fathoms, with
good holding-ground. Inside the point, and about 250 yards N. by W. from it, is a
shoal having only 12 feet water upon it, in a line from Ballast point to the western*
most house at La Playa ; it is a quarter of a mile long. The shoals on the starboard
hand, after entering, are plainly in sight, except at very high water ; the channel,
however, is buoyed, and cannot be missed. From La Playa to New San Diego,
4 miles distant, the channel corves to the right and contracts, but about 6 fathoms
water may be carried that far. A mile or two beyond the town the bay becomes shoal
and filled with flats, yet a very narrow S-fathom channel runs close along the eastern
shore, nearly to the head of the bay.

Coming from the south, run for the extreme end of point Loma until Ballast point
and La Playa are in range, as before, (ind follow the foregoing directions.

When inside the harbour vessels are perfectly safe, but dnring very heavy sonlherly
weather the kelp is said to drive in such masses as to make vessels drng their anchors.
We have never known such a case, and doubt if a vessel with good ground tackle and
proper attention would suffer from this cause. Certainly there is not reach enough
for the wind to raise a swell, and the holding ground is excellent. In heavy south-
east weather the sea breaks over Ballast point.

From Ballast point the bay runs about north for 1^ miles ; thence it curves gradually
to the eastward for 8 miles to New San Diago ; thcnco to the head of the bay, south-
east, 7 miles. The average width of the bay after passing La Playa is H miles, but

• Or Funta de loa Ouijarros.

t Named bj Yisoaino iu 1602. I>on Qiispar de Zuaiuga, Ooaut de Monterey, despatched th*
expedition.

SAN DIEQO.

181

at New San Diego, after contracting to a trifle over half a mile, it again expands to
about 1^ miles, with low shores and extensive marshes and flats.

Tides. — At La Playa the corrected establishment is 9h. 88m. The mean rise and
fall of tide is 3*7 feet ; of spring tides 5 feet ; and of neap tides 2*3 feet. The mean
direction of the flood is 6h. 25m. ; of the ebb 6h. ; and of the stand Oh. 30m.

The following remarks on San Diego harbour are by Mr. Davidson, Chief of the
U.S. Coast Survey on the Pacific Coast (1871).

" There is a depth of 22 feet water on the bar at the mean of the lowest low waters.
The average rise and fall of tide is 3*7 feet. The average rise and fall of spring tides
is 5-0 feet ; of neap tides 2-3 feet. The width of the channel over the bar, carrying
the foregoing depth, is about 600 yards ; the distance across the bar, between 100 and
200 yards.

San Diego compares very favourably with other harbours on this coast. On San
Francisco bar there is a depth of 5.^ fathoms ; on Humboldt bar, generally over
8 fathoms, but sometimes not over 15 feet ; on the Umpqaa bar, 12 to 18 feet ; on
Coos Bay bar, 7 to 12 feet; on the Columbia river bar, 4^ fathoms ; on Shoal water
Bay bar, 4^ fathoms. All these bars change much, except that of San Francisco; and
although the Columbia River bar has more water than that of San Diego, its advantages
are partially counteracted by the frequently heavier swell, and the greater difficulty of
running iu by the landmarks.

The depth of water on San Diego bar compares favourably with the depth on the
entrances to Atlantic harbours. Boston has about 18 feet; New York, 23}; Phila-
delphia, 18} ; Charleston, Mobile, and New Orleans, less than 18 feet.

There is a noteworthy fact in relation to the depth of water on the bar of San Diego
bay ; a comparison of the surveys of Dalrymple, in 1782, and Vancouver, in 1793,
and the last United States Coast Survey examinations, shows no change to have taken
place since the former date.

The bottom is uniformly good. No rocks have been discovered in the bay or
approaches. The position of San Diego bay with relation to point Loma is such that
there is rarely much swell on the bar; in summer there are not many days of heavy
S.E. weatlicr. As a rule there is less swell on this bar than on any other bar on the
Pacific coast.

I consider the approaches, the channel, and the facilities of entering and leaving,
good, at all ordinary seasons, for all vessels not drawing over 20 feet of water, and at
high water for vessels drawing 22 feet.

Large vessels can go about 7 miles up the bay — reckoning from Ballast point — with
an average width of channel of 4 cables between the 4-fathom lines at low water.
This indicates sufficient capacity to accommodate the wants of a large commerce.

The course of the channel within the bay is a regular curve, and buoys are needed
on each side of the channel, from La Playa to Kimball's wharf.

There is less rain, fog, and thick haze, and more clear weather in this vicinity than
at all points to the northward, and the entrance is less difficult to make and enter on
that account." (Met: Mar. Mag., 1871, p. 282).

Captain Sir E. Belcher, R.N., has obierved "Port San Diego, /or thelter, deserves

COAST OF CALIFORNIA.

all the commendation that previons navigators have befltowed on it, and with good
tackle, a vessel may be perfectly land-locked. The holding groand is stubborn, bat in
heavy southerly gales I am informed anchors 'come home,' owing to the immense
volume of kelp driven into the harboar. It was stated to me by an old sailor in this
region, that he has seen the whole bank of fucus ^aniens (which comprises a tongna
of 8 miles in length by a quarter broad) forced by a southerly gale into the port. This,
coming across the bows, either causes the cable to part, or bring the anchor home.
No vessel, however, has suffered from this cause. Th« chief drawback is the want of
fresh-water, which, even at the prosidio, 8 miles from the port, is very indifferent."

Commander Wilkes, U.S. Navy, observes as follows — " Port San Diego is of con-
siderable extent, being, in fact, an arm of the sea. It is 10 miles long, and 4 miles
wide, and, from being land-locked, is perfectly secure from all winds. The entrance
is narrow and easily defended, and has a sufficient depth of water, 20 feet at lowest
tide, for large vessels. The tide rises 5 feet. The tongue of kelp off the entrance uf
the bay must be avoided by large vessels, but small ves:>el8 may pass through it with
a strong breeze. During gales, this kelp is toni up and driven into the bay, where it
becomes troublesome to vessels by the pressure it brings upon them, ^ther causing
them to drag their anchors or part their cables.

There are many drawbacks to this harboqr ; th^ want of water is one of them, the
river which furnishes the mission with water disappearing in the dry season before
reaching the bay; and, the surrounding country may be called a barren waste of sand-
hills. The town is situated on the north side of the bay, on a sand flat 2 miles wide.
The mission establishment is 7 miles from the town, up a valley to the nnrtheast ; and
hore, there is a good supply of wate^ the year round. This river, in the rainy season,
discharges a considerable quantity of water into ihc h»y, bringing with it much sand,
which has already formed a bar across a part of Win bay, rendering it useless, and
well grounded fears may be entertained that it v'\\l eventually destroy this harbour
also ; this occurrence, however, may he prevented at slight cost.

The whole country around San Diego is composed of volcanic sand and mud, mixed
with scoria. The land is unfit for cultivation, and covered with cacti, one of the many
evidences of the poorness of the soil ; this leaves the port of San Diego little to recom-
mend it but the uniform climate, good anchorage, and security from all winds."

raise Bay.— At the north eua of the ridge of point Loma is an extensive shoal bay
oalled Puerto Falso, or Fals?i bay. The bar at its entrance lies N. by W. i W.,
distant 5^ miles from the southern extremity of point Loma ; and having but 8 feet of
water, it can be crossed only in the smoothest weather. The entrance just inside the
line of heavy breakers is about a quarter of a mile in width, but rapidly contracts to
)ess than half that width. The northern point of this bay is about 2 miles in length,
Yeiy narrow, and covered with low sand dunes. To the north ai^4 ^yest of this the
flhore becomes compact and unbroken, except by the valleys of San Lui^ I^ay and
pan Juan Oapistrano.

From the southern extremity of point Loma the coast rons N. by W. for 22 miles j
WHNxee to the east point of San Pedro bay, N.W. by W. i W. nearly 60 miles.

p%^ %vAu Bay. — Tn the above extent of coast occurs themisvonofSanLuis Rey, the
^ree|t in Californii^, situated in about lat. 88° 17', long. 117" 29'. It is in a part q{

Face pa^eJ83.

J' to a

n III 17

liONDOM .JuaiH imrv ^ Son

SAN PEDRO.

'tiid ooantty nnequalled for salubrity ami produetiTenesa, but the scarcely of rain a
an insuperable drawback to its prosperity. The anchorage is very restricted and
Kcarceiy ever vieited, as it is quite open to westerly aid southerly winds.

Ban Jaan Oapiatrano, a mission similar to that of San Luis Bey, is situated in '
about lat. 88° 27', long. 117° 43'. The anchorage is rocky in soundings of less than

6 fathoms, and is unprotected *- the landing is also bad. The bay is formed by a high
cliffy head to the north-west, and terminates in a southerly direction in low sandy
beaches. It is stated that when entering it from north-westward some care is required
to give the bluif point a wide berth, because some dangerous rocks lie off it to a con-
siderable distance.

Commander Wilkes, U.3.N., says " This bay has at its head a fertile valley, in
which is situated the town and mission of San Juen. The bay is entirely unprotected
and is a bad roadstead, the bottom being very foul inside of 5 fathoms, and the
landing at times impossible, on account of the surf. It can be safely visited only
during the fine season. Provisions and water are easily obtained ; the latter from tho
icountain streams, which empty into the bay, and also enable the inhabitants to irrigate
their lands by which mode of cultivation they are made extremely productive. The
shore hero becomes quite bold, making the communication to the northward by the
land very ineoiiveniout."

From San Juau Capistrano to point Fermin, on the went side of the bay of San Pedro,
tho distance is about 80 miles in a W. by N. i N. direction ; in the space between,
known a^ tho Bahia dc los Troinblores, are several rivers (tho Santa Anna, Bolsas,
and San Gabriel rivers), ulso tho landing wharf at Anaheim, a place rapidly rising in
importance. Tho cliffs along this side of the coast are steep. Only very little water
is to be obtained here, and tlie little that is required for the supply of the inhabit .nts
has to be brought (\m a di.stauce in the interior. San Pedro hill, over point Fermin,
is 1600 (eat high.

volnt ruvmin Ught. — A fln^hing light is exhibited from a lighthouse on point
Fermin, showing nUernato ,-fil aud white Jiashes at intervals of 10 seconds, each flash
being followed by au eclipse. The light is 151 feet above high water and visible
19 miles. Tho t«»\ver, GO feet high, is square, of a light buff colour ; its geographical
position is lat. 83° 42' 19", long. 118" 17' 87". Near the point is a rock with only

7 feet water over it.

■AW PBDRO. — This bay is formed on the west side by the high bold land of which
point Fcrntiu in tho oxtreiuity, uud on tho oast side by the low coast of the main land.
It is open to all poini.8 from S.W., by the souihwaid to S.E., and is consequently
exposed to tho full foroo of tho winter gales ; but during spring, summer, and autumn,
it is an exodlcut roadBload. A litllo ir,lot named El Moro, lies half a mile from the
beach, and h,is close to its oast side a depth of 18 to 12 foot ; between it and the
shore there is no passage.

At about 20 miles in the iulerior, almost North from San Pedro, is tho town of
Los Angeles, which is tho eonti-o of an oxteusive grazing, agricultural, and grapo
growing country. Tho quantity of grapos, and fruits gonerally, shipped from San Pedro
to San Francisco during tho proper season, is very largo.

Puri»s tliA y»tivr 1875 the exports of San Pedro atnouutcd to 14,600 tons, among

■! -l

IBi

COAST OF CALIFORNIA.

which were 7,000 tons of grain, 1000 tons of fruit, and 1500 tons of wool. The im-
ports amounted to 21,000 tons (exclusive of 12,000 tons for the railroad).

From point Fermin a line of bold bluff runs exactly north and south for about
2 miles, and averages 60 feet in height. Point Yiucente, the western point of the
high land of San Pedro, is also bold and has deep water in its immediate vicinity.

Vessels approaching San Pedro bay from westward through the Santa Barbara
channel make Sai' Pedro hill, as nn island projected against the mountains to the
southward and eastward. Approaching point Vincente, which is the south-west point
of the hill, vessels can keep it close aboard, there being frcsi 50 to 80 fathoms within
a mile of the shore ; round point Fermin within half a mile, in from 6 to 10 fathoms,
and open the small island El Moro, run for that Island, and when abreast of the
landing (readily recognized by the houses on the bluff), about one mile north of point
Fermin, anchor in 8 fathoms, hard bottom, at half a mile off shore. Vessels must
anchor a mile off to get 5 fathoms.

Coming from the southunrd with northwest winds, beat in boldly until abreast of
the landing ; keep the lead Roing imd anchor anywhere in its vicinity. Do not approach
the low shore, to the north and east uf El Moro, closer than 1 mile, at which limit
4 fathoms water will be found.

In winter, anchor farther out, and moro to the southward, in order to be able to slip
the cable and go to sea should a heavy south-easter spring up.

The waters of the lagoon, inside of the low sandy beach, and a mile or more north-
ward of El Moro, find their principal outlet bet ween that island and the bluff point half a
mile west of it. The entrance is very narrow and crooked, and has or had two buoys,
about '^-OO yards apart, to mark it. In 1850 it was stated that the " bar at the
r'Ai-Mic/o .o "jhe creek remains about the same, as it did in 1852. At moan low water,
ij ..wuig -ii the half tides, only 2 foot of water can be carried over it." A small tow-
boa- uow, wo bolievo, used for taking vessels to New San Pedro, situated about
d miles inside the bar.

Wood and tvatcr are not readily obtained, and charges are high. The beef raised
here is remarkably tongli.

The position of the lauding place, W.S.W. 5 8. from El Moro, is considered to bo
lat. 88° 48' 20", long. 118" 10' 8". The conoctod establishment of the port is
Oh. 89m. The mean rise ami full of the tides is JJ? foot ; of spring tides 4*7 feet ;
and of neap tides 2-2 foot.

Santa Anna lAtiioou. — At about 15 miles from San Pedro in an E. \ S. direction,
2*8 the Santa Anna lagoon wliicli roocivos the waters of tho Santa Anna river. Wlion
examined in 1801 it >»iis found to bd 5 miles long, nnd separated from the oceaw by n,
narrow strip of low saud boacli, over wbicli waslios dm hoiivy swell from tho no.'li 'vst
and south-east. The lagoon has a breadth of onl} a li w hundred yards, and i mout'i
about 60 yards in width, with a narrow bar, upon wiiieli it is Hupposed 10 or 12 feet
of water might bo found at high tide. On this bar tliero is a very heavy break rt all
fltngos of the tide, rendering it dangerous to cross in boats of any kind. There is said
to bo no safe anchorage off tho entrance, and tho low straight beach, with a trend
nearly east and west, affords no protection whatever. Tho Kan Pedro wind gap liee
between San Pedro hill and the Sierra San Juan, to the Mutb-oa^t of the Ha'ta Anna,

PORTS MONICA, HUENEME, &c.

185

and the snmmer winds di aw directly on the land, causing the north-west swell to roll
upon the boach with great force. In winter the swell breaks square upon this wholo
line of coast, and would prevent any vessel passing into or out of the lagoon, or riding
at anchor near it. In summer the Santa Anna is said to frequently dry up before
reaching the lagoon. Santa Anna lagoon is also known as Newport bay.

9Kontea Bay. — From point Vincento the coast trends N. by W. i W. 16 miles ;
thence W. by S. to point Dume, in lat. 34°, long. 118° 42'. The curve in the
coast thus formed is known as Monica \>^y ; at its head, in about lat. 34° 2', long,
118° 28', is a port bearing the same name. The trade at port Monica is small; in
1875 the exports and imports did not exceed 1000 tons respectively.

Point Dume rises into a dome-like form 202 feet high ; the land immediately behind
it falls away, so that in making it from westward it rises into view as an island close
under the high mountains. Eastward of point Dume the mountains spring directly
from the water.

From point Dume to point Hueneme the coast trends about W. by N. 22 miles ;
nearly midway between these points is Mugu point. Two miles westward of point
Mugu is Laguna point, close under which is very deep water, the 10-fathom line
running within 250 yards of the shore.

Port Huenemo. — This port lies, we believe, a short distance southward of the point
of the same name. It carries on a considoi'ablo trade ; in 1875 its exports figured a,t
10,500 tons.

Foint Huenoma Light. — k fixed oaA. Jlashbifj light is exhibited from a lighthouse on
point Hueneme, at an elevation of 54 feet above high water, visible 12 miles. It
shows a fixed light for one iniitute, followed by six consecutive flasli.es of 10 seconds
duration each. The tower, 4G feet high, is painted light buff colour ; its geographical
position is lat. 84° 8' 39", long. 119° 12' 30". Being of slight elevation it shows very
nvomineiitly against distant hills,

I3etween point Mugu aud Buenaventura the coast is low, flat, and sandy, being the
opening of the valloy of Santa Clara, through which flows the Santa Clara river ; this
stream is nearly dry during the summer, and tormiuates in lagoons and marshes, but
in the rainy season a volume of water is brought down having sulfloiout force to break
throuah tho narrow sand boach and flow into the ocean.

Tho eastern entrance to tho Santa Barbara channel lies between tho eastern end of
Anacapa island and point Hueuonir-, which is about half-way botwoon point Mngu and
Buenaventura. From Anacapa, point Iluouemo boars N.E. by N. J N., distant
lOJ miles. Directly oft' this point is found a ronjarkablo example of a sub-marine
valley, commencing with a depth of 10 fathoms, 2 cables from the boach, increasing jta
50 fathoms in about luilf a mile, and to 113 in loss than two miles. Its gonoral.dire* dot»
is South, with a width of a milo, and bounded on oitlior side by depths of 12 and 15
fathoms. Tiio bent landing is directly on the point ; landing in the bight eastward and
leeward of it is inipraticablu.

Ban Duanavantura. — There is excellent holding ground ofl* Buenaventura in 10 fathoms,
but tho landing is not good. The 3fathoin lino lies about a quarter of a milo oiT-shore.

Tho mission of Buenaventura, situated at the foot of tho dividing ridge of tho valleys
of San Buenaventura aud Santa Clara, about half a milo from the shore, was founded
March fllst, 1782. Its position is about lat. H4" 15', long. 119" 15',

J80

COAST OF CALIFORNIA.

In 1675 the trade at San Buenaventura was as follows: — exports/4, 500 tons,
imports 8,200 tons. The climate is temperate and the soil is remarkably fertile.

At about 15 miles westward of Buenaventara, on the coast, there is a rich deposit of
sulphur, surface specimens of which have yielded 60 per cent. Around the locality we
ashes and scoria. The ground is hot, and the gas emitted is almost suffocating.

8&NTA BAXBABA. — From San Buenaventura the coast trends nearly W. by N.
23 miles to Santa Barbara. This roadstead is open to all winds except those directly
from northward ; it is however i : i '^^ha^ sheltered by the islands Santa Cruz,
Santa R' ^a, and San Miguel from tur - swell sent on the coast by south-west

winds. The depth at half a mile from the iuh is 6 fathoms, and it is believed that no
sunken dangers exist in the kelp which prevails in some provision along the shore.
When there is any swell the surf is very bad. not falling square on to the beach but
cutting it at a sharp angle ; at this time landing is difficult. There is anchorage
within the line of kelp in about 4 fathoms, which is resorted to in summer, but not in
winter, because at the latter season the gales detach and dri''3 it shoreward in such
vast quantities that, coming across a vessels' hawse, it helps to bring home her anchors.
We believe tiiat vessels generally put to sea when there are indications of a gale
coming on from south-eastward. >:<

A dangerous sunken rock lies 12 miles westward of Santa Barbara and one mile off
shore ; it has only 15 ieet water over it with a depth of 7 fathoms inside it.

The shore at Santa Barbara consists of a low sandy beach, which is terminated to
the westward by a bold bluff, named point Castillo. The hill over this bluff is kuowu
as La Vigiii. The usual landing placo is at about half a mile eastward of point Castillo.
The shore is low and flat as far as the town, thrce-qniirters of a mile distant, but grad-
ually rises to the mission, a prominent object about 2 miles inland.f The town is of
considerable importance ; It is situated in the midst of a rich agricultural district, running
east and west at the southern base of the Sierra Conoepoion, but of limited breadth.
The trade with San Francisco Is not extensive ; but this being one of the greatest
stock-raising districts on the const, vasts droves of cattle pass through and are sent to
San Francisco and the mining districts. In 1875 the exports amounted to 2800 tons,
and the imports to 5,500 tons. Regular communication by steamers and sailing
vessels is maintained with Sun Francisco and other ports. Wood and provisions in
abnndance can be obtained hero. Water is plentiful, but not so readily procured.

Light. — As a guide to vessels approaching Santa Barbara fVom westward and south-
eastward, a liglithouso has been erected on tho point, at about 2 miles Bouth-weotward
from the landihg place. It stands 183 yards trom the edge of the bluff, and shows a
fired white, light at 180 feet above the soa, visible 17 miles. Its position is cousidorod
to bo hit. 84° 23' 44", long. 110* 48' 16".

If approaching Santa Barbi^ra from uostunni and noitth-wMlunird, tha uill La Vigta

(WiJ

* See the plan of Bnnta Barbara on the chart of tho coait of Catifurnla, publiihcd by Mcsara.

lUnAT JIMB SOK.

t This mission ii abottt 200 feet above the sea. It was founded Deoember 4tb, 1786, and soon
beoanie one of tlie largest and best establiahmontB of the kind in California, and in tlie gardeni
Itttaoiied to it the gri\p« and oHre were ouUivated with great snooeu.

„)

* t.F. (180*»I

.^tiiiMvSvtft^^

2SS.

I-
'I

i^iy V i V ^ y t^vy.' •//Av^\jj^V.'i^^

SANTA BARBARA

tV*!**

{TUttmJ

l«

Iff

HA.

■ •X.i

'tf-^f

't^^

LONDON _Jun»« liuriy «• Son.

lac* pag€ 188.

j^ti^lte^'i'V'^^^

21'25'IT.

'■A

r.ONUOM Jnim liurny * Son,

SANTA BAIIBARA.

187

will be a prominent object. Steer for the hill, and upon approaching the anchorage
keep ontside the line of kelp (here nearly half a mile wide) : gradually ronnd the
point upon which is situated the lighthoase, and keep along the kelp until abreast of
the town, off which anchor in 7 fathom?. Or, pass through the kelp and anchor inside
of it in 8i fathoms, hard bottom. Ontside the kelp in 9 or 10 &thoms, the bottom is
sticky ; vessels oooasionally anchor here.

The approach to Santa Barbara from Mstimrd or sonth-mstward requires no special
remarks. Vessels may pass either eastward or westward of Anacapa island.

Captain John Hall's experience of Santa Barbara agrees with the foregoing — " this
bay is only sheltered from the N.W. winds, being exposed to the South and S.W. The
anchorage is not very good, being hard sand, and overgrown with sea-weed. We had
such a quantity of this on our anchor when we hove it up, that it entirely impeded the
ship's progress until we got it clear. We found no tide or currents, but there appeared
to be a rise and fall, in-shore, of about 2 fVet. All kinds of provisions are cheap here,
as also fruits, viz. — grapes, pears, apples, and plums, in the season."

Vancouver has remarked of Santa Barbara, " To sail into the bay requires but few
directions, as it is open, and without any kind of interruption whatever ; the soundings
on approaching it are regular, from 15 to 8 fathoms ; the former, from 1^ to 2 miles,
the latter within 1^ cables' length of the shore. Weedi were seen growing about tho
roadstead in many places ; but, so far as we examined, which '^as only in the vicinity
of our anchorage, they did not appear to indicate shallower water, or a bottom of a
different nature. The shoros of the roadstead are far the most part low, and terminate
in sandy beaches, to which, however, its western paint is rather an exception, being a
steep cliff, moderately elevated."

Th« COAST. — From the lighthouse at Santa Barbara the coast trends W. by S.,
Q7 miles to point Goncepcian. At a very short distance behind the coast is a range of
rugged hills, over 2(J00 feet high, farming part of tho Sierra Conoepcion (sometimes
called the Sierra San Inez), whoso sides are sparsely covered with timber, and through
some of whose gullies and gorges pass small streams abounding in the finest trout ;
from others issue warn^ springs having a temperature of about 117° Fahrenheit, and
highly impregnated with sulphuretted hydrogen ; — these springs are behind the village
of Montecito, eastward of Sapta Barbara, and by barometric measurement are about
1200 feet above the sea.

At about 8 miles westward of Santa Barbara is a large bitumen pit, which empties
directly into the sea, and the bitumen, floating on the water, works offninst the summer
or north-west winds even beyond point Goncepcion. Very frequently, in calm weather,
a great extent of the surface of the channel becomes iridescent from the thin film of
bitumen spread over it. The rocks along the shore, even westward of point Goncepcion,
are covered with it. Sulphur, in large bods and of superior quality, also exists along
the seaboard, and manifests itself in all the warm springs.

xi ooxo. — At about 2 miles eastward of point Goncepcion is the anchorage of
El Coxo, off the entrance to tho valley of that name. This anchorage is better than
that off Santa Barbara, and the kelp is not so compact. When approaching it from
westward, pass poii^t Goncepcion at the distance of about three-quarters of a ntile, steer
{), b^ N. and gradually round the bluff w!iich is a mile East from the point, givirg it

188

COAST OF OAUFORNIA.

a berth of half a mile ; run on a N.N.E, course for three-quarters of a mile, \rhen the
valley will open with a sand beach o£f it. Anchor outside cr inside the kelp, according
to the choice of depth ; 5 fathoms baing obtained within a quarter of a mile of the
shore, with hard, sandy bottom. At half a mile from shore the depth is 10 fathoms.
7here is a large ri^noho ^t ill Coxo, and it is one of the very best tracts for grazing.
The beef has a finer flavour and more delicacy than any on the coast. At the head of
the valleys and in the mountains is a species of large live oak, very brash when newly
cut, but growing hard by seasoning. Willow, for fuel, and water can be obtained here,
but neither in abundance. The water is disagreeable to the taste.

voiHT coircsvoxoif is a remarkable headland, rising to the height of about 220 feet.
It is so conspicuous and prominent an object, that it is said, when once seen it will
never be forgotten. When made from northward, or from eastward, it rises as an
island, but, a nearer approach, discovers it to be a high promontory, stretching boldly
into the ocean, and terminating abruptly. The land behind it sinks comparatively low,
and at first gradually, but soon rapidly rises to the mountains, which attain an eleva-
tion of about 2500 feet. Between 800 and 400 yards south of the face of the cape is
a large rock nearly awash, upon which some of the California steamers have struck in
very foggy weather.

Vancouver says of this point — " It is remarkable by its di£fering very much in form
from tbe headlands to the northward. It appears to stretch out from an extensive
tract of low land, and to terminate like a wedge, with its large end falling perpendicu-
larly into the sea, which breaks against it with great violence. Off the point tbe
current sets to tbe north in the early spring months."

UKht.— The lighthouse upon point Concepcion is 35 feet high, and shows a light
revolving every thirty seconds at 250 feet above the sea, visible 28 miles. The building
is white, stands near the pitch of tbe point, and is considered to be in lat. 84" 2G' 52",
long. 120° 28' 8". A steam fog- whistle, stationed seaward of the lighthouse, is
Bounded in thick weather for 8 seconds every minute.

From the lighthouse, Bichardson rock, off the west end of San Miguel inland, bears
8. i E. distant 22 miles; the east end of San Miguel island S.E. by S. i S. 26 miles;
and the south-west end of Santa Cruz island S.E. by E. ^ E. 40 miles.

Mr. Davidson of the United States Coast Survey says — "Next to the islands of the
Santa Barbara channel, point Concepcion is the most prominent and interesting feature
between San Francisco and the peninsula of Lower California. It has very justly and
appropriately been termed the ' cape Horn ' and the ' Hatteras ' of the Pacific, on
account of the heavy north-westers that are here met with on coming through tbe
channel, with a great change of climate and meteorological conditions ; the transition
being remarkably sudden and well defined. An investigation of the temperature of the
ocean, north-west and east of the cape, would be highly instructive, as some character-
istics would naturally be expected from the abrupt change in the direction of the
mountains and coast line. We have frequently seen vessels coming from the eastward
with all sail get, and light airs from the north, in a very little time reduced to short
oanvftd qpon appcoaching the cape, and vessels from the north-west coming before a
spanUing breM» Iqoso it within a few miles after passing the cape into the channel.

ISLANDS OF CALIFORNIA.

189

These last would be fortanate in reaching Santa Barbara in a day. We have knovrn
a vessel to be 8 days working firom San Buenaventura to Santa Barbara, whilst a ten-
knot breeze was blowing west of point Goncepcion.

During some summer seasons the fog is almost interminable, but more particularly
among the islands. For the space of sii weeks, with clear days and nights at the
cape, the islands have been invisible ; rising, however, to an elevation of 1000 or
1500 feet, the observer plainly sees the summits of the islands over the sea of fog
which envelope them.

When the fogs prevail, they generally roll in from seaward at sunset, and clear away
about 10 o'clock next morning."

THE ISLANDS OF CALIFORNIA.

Magnetic Variation in 1879 ; — At San Clemente, 14° E, ; Santa Catalina,
San Nicolas, and Santa Barbara 14° 20' E. ; Santa Cruz, Santa Rosa,
and San Miijuel 14° 40' E. The annual increase is estimated to
be about 8 minutes.

These islands commencing with the southernmost are named San Clemente, Santa
Catalina, Santa Barbara, San Nicolas, Anacapa, Santa Cruz, Santa Rosa, and San
Miguel. They are separated from the northern shore by the Santa Barbara channeli
which is about 20 miles wide.

When making Santa Barbara channel from northwestward, shipmasters readily
estimate their approach in thick foggy weather by the peculiar odour of the bitumen
which, issuing from the large pit already mentioned (page 187) as situated on the shore
about 8 miles westward of Santa Barbara and floating upon the water, v • 'ci. against
the summer windr. far beyond point Concepcion. This set westward is found to exist
for about 4 miles from shore, and it runs at a maximum velocity of 1^ miles per hour;
further out the current is variable, but oven there its greatest velocity is attained when
running westward. From point Concepcion its direction is southward and westward,
being doubtless influenced by a current from the upper coast.

Vancouver directs attention to this bitumen, as follows — "The surface of the sea,
which was perfectly smooth and tranquil, was covered v.ith a thick slimy substance,
which, when separated or disturbed by any little agitation, became very luminous,
whilst the light breeze that came principally from the shore brought with it a strong
smell of tar, or of some such resinous substance. The next morning the sea had the
appearance of dissolved tar floating upon its surface, which covered the ocean in all
directions within the limits of our view, and indicated that in the neighbourhood it
was not subject to much agitation."

Sir Edward Belcher, in October, 1880, also observes — "Off this part of the coast,
westward of Santa Barbara, we experienced a very extraordinary eensation, as if the

ISLANDSl OF* CALIFORNIA;

ship was on firO. and ifter a very close investigation attributed it to a acent from th^
tbore, it being moro sensible on deck than below ; and the land breeze confirming
this, it occurred to me that it might arise from naphtha on the surface."

Among the islands, as far as San Nicholas, the current runs southward. On the
Cortez shoal ft frequently runs against the N;W. wind at the fate of neaHy 2 miles
per hour. At other times it has been found to run in an opposite direction with nearly
as much strengths

The rainy season here commences in the early part of November, and continued
until the middle of March. The quantity of rain that falls does not average over
15 inches, but some seasons are marked by excessive drought; During the winter
8.E. gales prevail, and sometimes during the summer months southerly weathe'r will
bring up hedvy raini

oortes Banki— This bdlilc, ^Hthin the depth df 50 fathoms, has aH extent of about
l5 miles ib & W. fay N. and E. by S. direction, its east end being in lat. 82° 24'i
long. 118° 59' 80", and its west end in lat. 82° 82', long. 119° 17' 80". It has aii
Itverago and nearly uniform width of 8^ miles. The bottom is hard, composed of white
Band, broken shells^ and fine coral at the south-east portion; and sand, with broken
shells, at the north-w<^8t. The shoalest and mont dangerous part is that known as the
Bishop rock) which is 5 miles from the south-east tail of the bank, and has but
2i fathoms of water upon it. Around this danger the depth increases gradually, and
in an extent of 2^ miles in the general direction of the bank reaches but 15 fathoms.
Tbo rock is Considered to be in lat. 82° 25}', long. 119° 5', and from it the north-
west end of the island of San Nicolas bears N.W. by N., distant 57 miles; and thd
south-east end of the islpnd of San Clemente N.E. i N; 46 mileSi

A shoal spot of 10 fathoms is also situated in about the middle of the bank; it is of
limited extent, being only half a mile square within the 16 fathom curve. Its position
is considered to belati 82° 26 j', long. 119° 10^', and from it the north-west end of
San Nicholas bears N.N.W< i W., distant 54 miles; and the south-east end of Sad
Clemente N^E. J B., distarit 50 miles. From the Bishop rock it beai'S W. J N.,
distant 6 miles. North-westward uf this shoal spot the depth is uenrly uniform at
49 fathoms for 7^ miles, and between it and the Bishop rock tbo depth is tiuifurm at
abotit 48 fathoms.

Upon the 6orleE bank the current is vaHable, frequently settiiig against the strong
~ N.W. winds with a velocity of nearly 2 miles per hour, and producing at all times a
heavy swell, and even in moderate weather breaking heavily upon the rocks. When
passing over the bank ut night its locality may be known bt the inCrtiesed swell. Id
the detailed examination of 1856 it was found that the general set of the current wad
southward and eastward, and the greatest velocity 1. J miles per hour; but no statement
was made concerning tbo prevailing wind.

The Cortez bank lies in the direct route now followed by the Panama and San
Francisco steamships, and was discoverod by Captain Cfopper, of the steamship Cortez,
in March 1858. His position was determined by bearings of San Nicolas and Sad
Clemente, and was very close, being within a mile of the later and best assigned
plaoe. He says that the water around it was in violent commotion, and thrown upf

911

CORTEZ BANK

Nantieldet

n 4 i ) 1 » »

Soundings in Fathom

LongU9'5'10"Vr.

faa pug* 190

'53

LOUDON Jaiiies Imray 8; Sou

SAK Oti^MENTE;

thidddnly in columns at regular intervals of 4 or 5 minutes. At ^rsi he thoug'il lid
saw breakers ; and occasiunally the water broke as on a I'eef, but lie became confident
that the disturbance was owing to submarine volcanic ageucj. The speeimeus of the
bottom negative this ideai He found his depth of water reduced from 42 fathoms to
Ui from whieh it is evident that he was on the shoal spot in about (he middle of the
bank, and saw the water breaking upon the Bishop rock; — the same appearance thut
he witnessed having been seen many times since by others, and the nature of the rocky
bottom and depth of water supporting the assumption. The position of the bank was
afterwards more closely determined by the commander of the steamship Pacijic; but
in the Coast Survey operations the 10-fathom spot was found, and the survnyiug
schooner used in that duty was anchored on it 5 days.

Attention was subsequ itly called to a more extended exauiinatioin of the vicinity by
the clipper ship S.S. BisliDp, of Philadelphia, striking (1855) upon the rock since
called by her name, andy under unfavourable circumstances, two points of rock were
supposed to exist, to which approximate positions were assigned. In 1856 the bank
was sounded over to the extent of IBO square miles ; and from a consideration of the
highly favourable circumstances under which this last survey was made, confidence is
expressed that the point of rock above moLtioned is the only one existing ; but as it ia
very difficult to find detaehed single points of roek below the surface in a sea-way, it
will not be supprising if others be eventually found. At all events a prudent navi-
gator will give this bank a good berth. Its existence forcibly suggests the probability
that other submanne ridges lie parallel to the coasti

8AM CLuauiiiTa is a lofty bold island, the south end of which is in lat. 82° 49' 80",
long. 118° 24' 15". From this point it extends 16 miles iu a N.W. by W. direction,
with an average breadth but little exceeding 8 miles, and at the same time gradually
decreases in height; its greatest ele I'ation is estimated to be 1500 feet. From ita
south extremity point Loma, San Dirgo, bears E< \ N. distant nearly 60 miles. The
island is very barren and neither vood nor water can be procured from it. The
soundings around it show a depth of 80 to 180 fathoms ' )8e in shore^ except off
the north-west point, from which a reef makes out about a . <ile. In 1862 there were
no inhabitants and the only animals upon the island at thi u time weie wild sheep.

At the northern end of the island a small indentation of the shore line in lat. 88° 2',
long. 118° 82' 80", forms an anchorage having a width of three-quarters of a mile, by
half a mile in depth, with soundings decreasing from 12 fathoms (on the lino of a large
rocky islet at the west side to a point E. by S. from it) to 4 and 5 fathoms close in
shore. Kelp will be found in 10 fathoms^ but the bottom is tolerably regular and
hard. It is anything but a pleasant or safe anchorage in bad N.W. weather, and even
in heavy southerly weather the swell must roll iu disogreeably.

There is also anchorage under the S<E. cud of tiic iKJaud, in the deepest part of the
iuduntation of the shore, but the bottom is rocky and irregular. The S.E. point is a
vast sandstone pyramid ; and when it is brought to bear North, and the shore three-
quarters of a mile distant, the anchorage will lie W. by N. i N. 1} miles, inside the
kelp, in 10 to 16 fathoms, and a third of a mile from the narrow sand beaoh at the
foot of the cliffs. Outside of the kelp the depth ranges from 10 tu 80 fathoms. This
ftuuhorage affords protooliou iu heavy, uorth-wost weather.

tfi;
■ftlil

ISLANDS OF CALIFORNIA.

SANTA CATAXiiiVA. — The South-east end of this island is in lat. 88° 20', long.
118° IG', and bears N. 5 W. from the south-east point of San Clemento ; thence the
island extends W. by N. f N., 17^ miles, with an average breadth of 5 miles in its
southern, and of 2 miles in its northern part. It is very lofty as it rises to the height
of about 8000 feet, and is remarkable for a great depression, at 5 miles from its north
end, which runs partly through it and forms a cove on each side, in either of which
(according to the direction of the prevailing wind) vessels may anchor and obtain
shelter. This depression in the island bears S.S.W. from point Fermin, San Pedro
bay, distant 18^ miles. The land between the two coves is not more than 80 feet
high ; but the hills on each side rise to the height of 2000 or 8000 feet, so that when
Santa Catalina is viewed from a good oflSng, north or south of it, it appears to be two
islands.

randoraoove — The cove on the south side of the island, just alluded to, is only
about a third of a mile in width, but its approaches are bold, and, so far as known,
free from hidden dangers. To find it, run along the south-west side of the island and
make for the depression ; then stand ic for the opening, keeping a little left of mid-
channel until a third of a mile inside of the heads ; thence keep in mid-channel until
abreast of th* long, low point on the right, and anchor in 5 fathoms, soft bottom.
There is a depth of 8 fathoms immediately inside of the low point, with hard bottom,
but not room enough for a vessel to swing. If the wind is blo\^ing from the N.W.,
vessels will lose it at the heads, and perhaps require to be towed in.

Baper Bay. — The cove at the depression on the north sid6 of the island is also
small, with a reef in the centre and two large outlying rocks. A Steamer could run
in on the west side of the rocks, and anchor off the low beach in 10 fathoms, when the
reef would lie N. by E. from her, distant one-eighth of a mile. Small craft will hero
find protection from the prevailing winds, but experience difficulty in getting out, as
there is always a swell setting in, and the wind blows in flaws and eddies on account of
the high hills. Between the two points forming the anchorage the distance is half a
mile, and the depth a third of a mile. According to the plan on the Admiralty chart
No. 2797, edition 1875, the low shore of this covo is in lat. 88° 20' 23", long.
118" 25' 7".

The soundings around the islaud show deep water, from 19 to 70 fathoms, close in
shore, with no outlying rocks except off and near the north covo. The hhores aro
rocky, and on the southern side fearfully abrupt, but on the northern shore there aro
Beveral indentations, whore boats may laud at almost any season. Deep and pre-
cipitous gulches are formed by the ridgos of rock running diagonally across the island
ftom N.E. to S.W., ftnd occasionally a small valley varies the scene. A few settlers
cultivate these spots, but their iuconsiderablo extent precludes the realizing of anything
beyond a bare sustenance. At about midway between the north-west extremity of tlio
island and the great break there is a spring of good water, and at the south-east point
good water has been obtained by sinking wells to a depth of 60 feet or moro,^but in tho
intermediate places water found at the same depth is brackish. Thoro is a largo pond
CD tho low laud between tho anchorages, but tho water is very brackish. Scrub-oak is
obtuiuod for firo-wood| and n growth uf thorny busb^s covers tho wholo islaod, rondoriug

Faa pagt 131

ANCHORAGES IN

SANTA CATALINA

ioCilUu

Q ^SetdUB!^

SANTA BARBAllA, SAN laCOLAS, ANACAPA, &c.

198

iravelling very difficult. The island Is partially stocked with cattle and sheep, and at
one time vast numbers of wild gcats abounded, but they have helped to supply the
Culifornia market with fresh meat.

SANTA 8ABBABA. — This little island is distant about 23 miles in a W. by S.
direction, from the north end of Santa Catalina, and its centre is in lat. 33" 30', long.
119° 2'. It is situated almost mid-way between the northern end of San Ciemente
and the east end of Santa Cruz, and at an equal distance from the shores of Santa
Catalina and San Nicolas. Its extent does not exceed 2 miles of shore-lino ; its
elevation at the highest part is about 500 feet, and the top has an area of about
80 acres covered with soil. There is no water, and not a vestige of wood.

The shores of the island are rocky and abrupt, presenting on the north-east and
Bouth sides perpendicular cliffs exposed to the full force of the sea. Landing is at all
times difficult and dangerous. The water around it is deep, anu there are no out-
lying rooks. It Is said to bo much more enveloped in fogs than the neighbouring
islands.

BAN RIOOLAB IS distant 25 miles S.W. from Santa Barbara, and is farther from
the land than any of the isiauds ; it is also the driest and most sterile. It is 8 miles
long W.N.W. and E.S.E., and has an average breadth of 3J miles. Its height is
about GOO feet, and, like San Ciemente, it is comparatively flat-topped, but falling to
the southern end. The sides are bold and precipitous, and composed of coarse sand-
stone. The depth ai a moderate distance from it is 10 to 48 fatlioms ; at 2J miles
northward from it are soundings of 40 and GO fathoms. From its north end point
Fermin, San Pedro, bears N.E. by E., distant G5 miles.

The south-east end of Sau Nicolas island is a low sandy point, the approximate
position of which is lat. 83° 13', long. 119" 25'. Vessels may anchor off this end of
the island in 10 fathoms, hard bottom, but some inconvenience is occasioned by the
Bteady southerly current ; this makes a lauding difllcult, as the surf cuts the beach at
an acute angle.

Breakers extend from the north end of the island about 2^ miles, and it is said that
they also extend from the southern point to the distance of 1 j miles ; this is doubtless
in heavy weather.

B«Kg Book. — At about 7 miles W.N.W. from the north-west end of San Nicolas ia
tho Begg rock, wliicli is about JO feet high, bold, and so well defined as to be distinctly
visible from the dislnnco of 10 miles. Its position is about lat. 33° 22', long. 119° 89'.

The depth near tiio south-east side of the Begg rock is C2 fathoms, and near its
nortii-west side 52 fathoms. Between it and Sau Nicolas, the bottom is irregular and
rocky, ond at nearly midway are soundings of 10 to 45 fiithoms, coral.

ANACAPA, although always spoken of as one ishiuil, is a curiously formed group of
three islands, extending in nearly an K.N.E. direction 5 miles. Tho geogrnpiiica'
position of its west end is hit. 34" 0' 55", long. 119° 21' 15". From its west ond the
east point of tho island of Santa Cruz bears W. i S. distant 4 miles ; and, from its
east end Banta Haibara light bears N.W. ^ W., 28 miles, and point Huencmo, the
Dearest point of the main land N.E. by N. ) N., 10.^ miles.

The W08t«iu island of Auacapa cousists of a peak 980 feet in height, with a base of

194

ISLANDS OF CALIFORNIA.

over 2 miles by three-quarters of a mile ; this is separated from the middle island by a
gap 10 feet wide, through which boats can pass. The middle island is nearly 2 miles
long by 500 yards wide, whilst the eastern island is little over a mile long by 500 yards
wide. The gap separatiug the middle and eastern islands is over 200 yards wide, but
so completely filled with rocks as to be impassable for boats, which can, however, land
on the north side of the island.

The whole group foiming the island of Anacapa is composed of coarse dail: grey
sandstone, very rotten and crumbling. The sides are perpendicular, and from 250 to
800 feet high. The main peak is marked on the north »ide by several deep gulches
with almost vertical sides, running from the summit to the bluff. The whole forma-
tion is filled with innumerable cavities, giving it the appearanse of an enormous blackened
honeycomb. At the eastern extremity is found a very beautiful arch in one of the
outlying rocks. The soil is loose and thin, and not a drop of water is to be found on
the islands.

The depth immediately off the cliffs of Anacapa is generally from 5 to 6 fathoms,
which increases to 17 and 25 fathoms at an oiliug of about a quarter of a mile. Close
to the arched rocks are soundings of 9 to 11 fathoms. The island is almost entirely
encircled by kelp, which extends in some places about half a mile off shore. The
general depth in the channel between the island and Santa Cruz, is 80 fathoms, grey
sand, coral and shells ; in some places, however, as much as 85 fathoms occurs.

SANTA ORUZ.-^This island, the largest of the California islands, lies about
20 miles from the coast and opposite to, or almost due South from, the town of Santa
Barbara. It is nearly 25 miles long, east and west, and has an average width of
4 miles ; its western part is the broadest. From its east end (San Pedro point), Santa
Barbara light bears N.W. f N., 24 miles ; from Prisoner harbour, this light bears
N. by W. i W., 22 miles ; and from its north-west end (Negro point) the same light
bears N. by E. i Fi., 21 miles.

The island, composed of coarse dark grey sandstone, crumbling and rotten like that
of Anacapa, is bold and nearly 2000 feet in hcij»lit. Its eastern part is extremely
irregular, barren, and destitute of water ; and the surface of the north-eastern portion
is thickly strewn with large angular pieces of stone, broken as if with a hammer. Its
greatest elevation is 2.110 feet above the sea. On the lower parts of the surface grass
is abundant and for some years has sustained a stock of sheep so considerable that
16,000 to 20,000 head have been taken from the island annually.

On the northern side of the island, and near the middle, the shore makes a moder-
ately deep curve, forming a roadstead named Prisoner harbour, at the opening of a
valley, where plenty of wood and water can bo obtained. Anchorage may bo had at a
quarter of a mile from the middle of the beach in 15 fathoms, sandy bottom; but there
is no protection from the heavy swell setting in with a north-wester, — it, however,
affords excellent refuge from gales from south-eastward. The approximate, position of
this harbour is lat. 84° 0' 80", long. 110° 80' 80".

Anaeapft Bay. — At the eastern extremity of Santa Crnz island, immediately to tho
southward of Son Pedro point,is anopenbay.knownaa Anacnpabay (Seo plan on Admiroity
chart No. 2797). Vessels anchor in 18 or 14 fathoms, about a third of a mile from

* <3

■i'

SANTA CRUZ AND SANTA ROSA.

196

the boat-landing in the northern part of the bay ; here are moored two liuoys. The
greater part of the shore hereabout is lined with kelp, and rocks extend off several of
the projecting points of the bay. The geographical position of Observatory point ia
lat. 84° 1' 19", long. 119° 26' 57".

The soundings round the island show deep water close to the shore. There are
rocks showing quite plainly at one mile from the south-west part of the island, and
others lying off Eraser point, its westernmost extremity.

There is a well-marked submarine plateau extending from the north face of Santa
Cruz island, and a remarkable canon off the south-west corner of the island. The
canon has been traced to its head, in Santa Oruz channel, where 100 fathoms have
been formed with 40 fathoms on each side. In reference to this remarkable depression
in the sea-bottom Lieut. Com. Taylor, U.S. Coast Survey, 1874, says :— '•' Com-
mencing at about the middle of the southern part of Santa Cruz channel, the canon
turns at once to the eastward and sweeps along parallel to the south shore of Santa
Cruz island for some miles, when it again turus southward and goes to the deep sea at
a point a little east of Gull island (?). It averages 800 fathoms in depth for the
gieater part of its length, with 40 and 50 fathoms on its seaward side. The bottom
is rock and shells as far as the turn to seaward, where the ooze of the deep sea begins
to show."

The U.S. Coast Surveyors, 1874, discovered several good anchorages and boat-*
landings at Santa Cruz, additional to those heretofore fesorted to, and the positions of
some good fresh-water springs were ascertained.

SANTA B08A. — This is the middle island of the group off the coast between Santa
Barbara and point Concepcion. Its general shape is that of a parallelogram, with the
direction of the longer axis almost east and west, and 18 miles in length ; and the
shorter north and south, giving it a width of 9 miles. Farts of it are elevated more
than 1200 feet.

About a mile northward of the north'west point of the island is a coral reef with only
10 feet water over it.

There is a good passage (Santa Crnts channel) between Santa Cru^ and Santa ttosa«
having a width of 6 miles, and one also between it and San Miguel of 2^ miles. Both
passages are frequently used by the California and Panama steam ships.

The soundings round the island do not show such deep water as that existing roUnd
the others. On the north' west and north-oast sides a depth of 15 to 20 fathoms
is found at 2 miles from the shore ; on the south-east and south-west sides the water
is much deeper.

The outline of the island is bold, but not so high as Santa Cruz ; its shores are steep
and broken. The hills are undulating and covered with coarse grass and bushes.

Baohcr Bay. — On the north-east side of Santa Rosa island, between Carrington (off
which is a reef) and Skunk points, is a bay in which vessels can find anchorage
protected from westerly and southerly winds ; it is named Becher baji (See plan on
Admiralty chart, No. 2797). The anchorage is in 7 or 8 fathoms, half a mile off
shore, nearly abreast a fresh-water stream. The sbure uf the bay is lined with kelp
which extends as far out as the depth of G fathoms inside this line of kelp the wats^

196

ISLANDS OF CALIFORNIA.

i ;

becomes shoal and irregular in depth. The geographical position of Observatory point,
about half a mile northward of the fresh'water stream , is lat. 84° 1' 10", long.
119° 58' 2".

SAR Kzouso. — San Mignel, the westernmost of the California islands, is 6 miles
long in anE. by N. and W. by S. direction, and has an average breadth of 2 miles.
From its west end point Concepcion bears N. by W. ^ W. distant 25 miles, and point
Arguello N.W. by N. i N. 85 miles. This end of the island is bold and narrow,
gradually increasing in breadth until it attains 8^ miles ; as seen from south-westward,
it appears to be several hundred feet in height, and composed of sand dunes, therein
differing from all the other islands. Off the western end of the island, near the Castle
rock, breakers extend about 1^ miles seaward.

Cnyiar Barbour. — On the north-east side of the island is a small bay named Cnyler
harbour, off which lies a rock or islet more than a quarter of a mile long, and several
hundred feet high. From this islet to the head of the bay the distance is 1^ miles,
and the course S.W. Close under the western side of the bay is anchorage in
6 fathoms, secure from every wind except the North, which rarely blows. The eastern
part of the bay is full of rocks and reefs, and ought to be avoided. The reef in the
middle of the bay bears S.W. from the west end of the islet, distant half a mile ; it is
the same distance from the west point of the bay, near the anchorage, and bears from
it E. by S. At about a third of a mile S.W. by S. i S. from the west end of the islet
is a rock, and rocky bottom ; and on the same line of bearing, but half a mile distant,
another. The southern part of the islet is about half a mile from the east shore of the
bay. The bay shores are high, steep, and undulating, and covered with coarse grass
and bushes. There is no water here in summer, but during the winter water drains down
the gully at the beach in the middle and southern part of the harbour. The approximate
geographical position of the south-west part of this harbour is lat. 81° 2' 60", long^
120° 11' 80".

The sea round San Miguel island is deep, a depth of 22 fathoms prevailing at about
a mile from its shores. In mid-channel, between it and point Concepcion, there is no
bottom at 120 fathoms.

Tides. — The corrected establishment of the port at Cuylcr harbour is Oh. 26m.
The mean rise and fall of tides is 8*7 feet; of spring tidos S'l feet; and of neap tides
2-8 feet.

Bichardaon Book, ^e. — This rock, showing well above water, lies N.W. by W.
distant 4^ miles from the western extremity of San Miguel ; it bears S. i E. distant
22 miles from point Concepcion, and S.S.E. 80 miles from point Arguello. Off it a
reef extends a short distance in all directions. Deep water is found around the rocks,
and vessels may pass between them. Another rock lies N.W. by W. 2 J miles from
Harris point, the northern extremity of Sau Miguel; it is known as Wilson rook.

197

POINT CONCEPCION TO POINT REYES.

Magnetic Variation in 1879 ; — At San Luis Obispo 15° 15' E. ; Sun Simeon

15" 80' E.; Monterey Bay 16" E. ; San Francisco Harbour 16° 30' E.

It is estimated to increase annually about 8 minutes.

Vli* OOA8T. — From point Concepcion the coast trends N.W. by W. i W. 12 miles
to point Arguello. The shore is bold, curving slightly eastward between the two
points, and the mountains immediately behind are not less than 80U0 feet in height.
At QOO or 800 yards off point Arguello are some detached rocks, npon which the
steamship Yankee Blade struck and was lost on the 1st of October, 1854, and 415
persons perished.

At 8 miles northward of point Arguello is a small stream named La Pnrissima,
iirom the mission La Purissima Concepcion situated a few miles inland ; it rises in
long. 119° 20', at about 15 miles from the coast, and runs parallel therewith behind the
Sierra Concepcion.

The first point northward of point Argnello is point Purissima, from which a reef
extends about a quarter of a mile to the S.S.W.* Between points Purissima and Sal,
in lat. 84° 54', long. 120° 40', a distance of 7i miles, is a small stream named
Guyamas.

Point Sal anchorage is in the bay close to the southward of point Sal ; here
Teasels anchor in 9 fathoms water, about a mile off the shore. The bay is skirted by
breakers.

From point Arguello to point Sal the distance is 19 miles in a N. by W. f W.
direction. Point Sal is marked by streaks of yellow sand, except at the extreme point ;
the extremity is formed by high, round, black rocks, off which are several sunken rocks,
extending half a mile southward and westward. This stretch of the coast is very
similar to that behind points Concepcion and Arguello, but, after passing point Sal,
the mountains fall back, and the shore is formed of sand hills. The general trend
thence is North, until the shore commences sweeping westward to form the bay of San
Luis Obispo, and the shores become high and steep.

■Air XiVXS OBiBFO. — At about 17 miles northward of point Sal, and at nearly 36
miles from point Arguello, is the bay of San Luis Obispo, which is an open roadstead,
exposed to southward and by no means a desirable anchorage, for even during heavy
north-west weather a bad swell rolls in, rendering it extremely uncomfortable. The
landing is frequently very bad, and often impracticable, but the best place is in the
mouth of the creek, keeping the rocks at its mouth on the starboard baud. Fresh-

* This point is knowu on the coast as point Pedernalcs, signifying point of Flints, but noir
generally aud erroneously printed Pudro Nales. Pormeny it was called San Peilro Nolasco. Near
this point the iteamBhip Edith was lost in 1849. The state survey of California places point Peder<
nales only 2 miles northward of point Arguello,

108

POINT OONCEPCJON TO POINT REYES.

water may be obtained froiq a small stream opening on th^ beacb at balf a mile west-
ward of the creek.

The distance from the rock off point San Luis to the month of the creek is 1| miles ;
from the san^e rock to a white rock the bearing t^nd distance are E, by N . ^ N. 2| miles ; —
fk black rock lies half-way between the white rock and the mouth of the creek.*

The estimated position of the hlnff at the east side of the small fresh-water stream
westward qf the creek in San Lnis Obispo bay, is lat 85" 10' 37", long. 120° 43' 81".

Tides. — The corrected establishment of the poi-t of San Luis Obispo is lOh. 8m.
The mean rise ai^d ^ of tides is 8*6 feet ;; of s|tripg tides, 4*8 f<?et i and of neap-tidas
2-4 feet.

At abont 10 miles inland from the bay of San Luis Obispo is the town of the same
name, situated in the middle of an e^^tensive and excellent grazing country. Commn-
pication is maintained between the bay and Sai^ Francisco aqd otber ports by steamers,
fui'l lines of packets.!

ISsteres Bay. — From point San Luis the coast trends W.N.W., for a distance of
8 miles to poiqt Ejachon ; close along this shore are several large rocks. Thence the
coast bends abruptly i^oirthward, running to the high conical rock known as El Moro,
distant 8 miles — these two shores forming the seaward base of mount Buchon, which
rises to a grat^t l^ei^ht (^nd is readily distinguished in (joming from the northward or
[southward.

From El Moro fhe shore gradually trends westward, and forms a deep indentation
known as Esteros bay. Behind El Moro are several lagoons or streams, and the high
land retreats for some distance, leaving the shore low and sandy, while the north shore
is rugged, and guarded by rocks. The north-west point of the bay, named point
Esteros, bears N.W. ^ N. fropi point Buchon, distant 13 miles ; within these jpoints
the shore line of the bay recedes about 5 miles.

From poiqt Esteros to the western point of the anchorage of San Simeon the coast
runs nearly straight N.W. by W., for a distance of 16 miles, The shores are not
BO bold as those southward or northward of it, and the mountains full well back,
leaving a fine undulating country of no great elevation, a**! well suited to agriculture.

* Daring the prosecution of U.S. Ooast Survey in 1874 tbree sunken rocks, dangerous to navi-:
gation, were discovered in San Luis Obispo bay. One of tbese, in 14 feet water, is stated to lie a
^ile southward of i^cky bluff; the others, in 18 feet water, are about half a mile apart and lie
^bout 1 1 miles south-^ifest of Whaler island at the extremity of point San Luis.

f ^t is stated that there is a sunken rock at about 8 miles S.S.W. from point San Lnis, upon
which kelp has been found at the depth of i fathoms. On the old Spanish charts of this coast, an
island appears laid down in that direction, but distant about 8 leagues. One of the |>acifia mail
Rteam ships laid-to in a south-east gale and thick fog off point Concepciuu, and drifting porthward
pame flue^^pectedly upon ^ sunken rock, upon which the kon was breaking heavily. The commander
supposed the ycsbpI to ho then off point Sal, atid had so plotted the rock upon his chart ; but upon
Veing informed of the alleged existence of a rook off San Luis Obispo, he was satisfied that he had
l^een near it, but unfortunately had no opportunity of determining his position.

This locality demands a thorough examination, as it is in tlif direct track of the whole California
^ft^de from San I'ranciBcu,

SAN SIMEON BAY.

189

' BAif siBKBOir BAT. — This is a small exposed roadstead, situated in lat. 85° 88' 24",
long. 121° 10' 22"*, in which tolerably good anchorage may be obtained daring north-
west winds, but it is unsafe with southerly winds. The south-west point of the bay
bebrs N.W. by W. from point Esteros, and is distant 15 miles. The shore of the bay
trends northerly for about half a mile, and then sweeps away westward about 1^ miles,
gradually taking a south-east direction. The land behind the bay is comparatively
low and gently undulating, the high hills retiring well inland.

Vessels from northward may run boldly round the S.W. point of the bay, within a
few hundred yards of the shore, in 8 or 9 fathoms ; they should then bear up north-
ward and anchor anywhere off the sand beach, in 5 fathoms, hard bottom, at a little
more than a quarter of a mile from shore. The beach is half a mile long, stretching
well oat, and rendering the landing disagreeable with any swell ; but in such cases it
is usual to land on the western part of the beach. Eastward of the sand -beach the
shore is bluff and skirted with rocks. Vessels from southward must make short tacks
close in shore, or they will assuredly miss the bay. The only sure marks for it are
the Piedras Blancas, subsequently mentioned, and the lighthouse in their vicinity.

ncdras Bianoas and zasbt. — From San Simeon bay the coast trends W. f N.,
4 miles to the Piedras Blancau, two large white sharp-topped rooks, situated a short
distance from the shore, the outer and larger of which is in lat. 85° 89', long. 121° 15'.
They are very conspicuous rocks, and as there are none like them on this part of the
coast, they are an excellent mark for the bay of San Simeon. From them, point San
Luis bears S.E J E., distant 88 miles ; point Esteros S.E. by E. \ E,, 18 miles ; ami
point Arguello S.E. i S., 72 miles.

A lighthouse is erected on the point immediately behind the Piedras Blancas rocks.
It exhibits a fi-ved white light, Jiashiiig every 15 seconds, at 170 feet above the
sea, visible 19 miles. The structure is a conical brick tower, painted white ; the
lantern and dome are red. Its ai'ju'oximate geographical position is lat. 85° 10',
long. 121° IG'.t

Th* COAST. — From the Piedras Blancas the coast trends N.W. J W., a distance
of 67 miles, in an almost perfectly straight line. At about 18 miles from these rocks
the above mentioucd bearing cuts a bold bluff and rounded point named Punta Ciorda,
off which, and for 2 or 8 miles along the shore northward, there are many rocks. J
Continuing on the same bearing, and at a distance of 19 miles from Piedras Blancas,
is point Sur, which extemds out nearly half a mile. As seen from northward or south*

• The place of observation was ou the rise just off the beach, and bearing N. 5° W., from the
BOuth-wcst point of the buy.

t The rock on wliich the Harlech C(i«</c was wrficked lies about 1.) miles north of Piedrns
BUnoaB, about two cables iuBidc the kelp line and iusido the lino adjoining the adjacent points north
and south of it. Tiio depth is 10 fathoms one mile outside the rook and '^ or 1 fathoras inside ; and
it is said to have 11 feet water upon it. (U.S. Const Survey, 1870),

} This point is the cnpe Sun Martin of t'abrillo. As there is a point under cape Mendocino,
more generally known as Puuta tiorda, it lias been Buggested that this point retain the name given
to it by Cabrillo.

:'(

200

POINT CONCEPCION TO POINT REYES.

i is

ward, at a distance of 10 miles, point Sur appears as a high, largo, ronnd-toppod
island ; bat upon approaching it a low neck of land is seen, connecting it with the
main. Its approximate position is lat. 80° 19', long. 121° 52'.*

The highest peak of the range bordering the coast lies 6 miles in from point Sar,
and attains an elevation of 4414 feet.

Still continuing on the same bearing, 57 miles from Piedras Blancas and 7^ miles
from point 3ur, another slightly projecting point is passed, at about one mile eastward
of the course. Thence the coast trends more eastward, running N.N.W. for 8 miles,
to point Cypress, and passing point Carmel, the south point of Gunnel bay.

From point Arguello to point Sur the bearing is N. 44° W., and the distance 120 miles.
From point Sur to point Reyes the bearing is N. 43° W., and distance 118 miles.

The mountains, which had fallen back behind Los Estcros, gradually approach the
ghore-lii ,) north of San Simeon, and nbout 10 miles north of Piedras Blancas they
come down abruptly to the coast, and run parallel with it to point Carmel, forming one
of the boldest shores ou the California coast, and attaining a uniform elevation of
nearly 4000 feet. These mountains are known as the Sierra de Santa Lucia. From
their precipitous faces may be st'en cascades falling from a height of 40 or 50 feet
directly into the sea.

Carmel Bay. — Between point Carmel and Cypress, which are about 8 miles apart,
lies the smnll, rocky and unsafe bay of Carmel. At the southern extremity is a small
cove, sufficiently land-locked and protected for small vessels. In the vicinity there is
an extensiv J quarry of granite, and several small coasting vessels are employed for its
transportation to San L'raucisco ; but there is so little space that they are compelled
to warp in and out by buoys placed at the entrance. Point Cypress, the north point of
the bay, is low, and covered with cypress to the water, and is the first wooded point
met with in coming from southward. The upper branches of the trees are spread out
by the iuflucuce of the strong prevailing winds, nnd present a flat or umbrella-like
appearance. The Misnion del Cainiolo is situatou but a short distance from the shores
of the bay, and can be seen from the water in ccrtaia directions.

Tho COA&T. — From point Cypress to point Pinoa the general direction of the shore
is N. f E., and tho distance 4 miles. Point Pinos makes out as a low rounding point,
bringing the pinos, with which it is covered, within a quarter of a mile of the shore, off
which the rocks make out a quarter of a mile, and the line of 8 fathoms nearly half a
mile, when the depth suddenly increases to 10 or 15 fathoms, and at a mile reaches
40 or 45 fathoms. The 3-fathom line follows the shore within a third or half a mile
into Monterey, whilst outside of that lino the depth increases as suddenly as off the
point. VesHols should always give point Pinos a good berth, u,s a very heavy swell
almost iuviuiably sets upon it. This point is the northern termination of the long and
elnvated range named Sierra de Santa Lucia, extending southward (^nd forming the
bold rocky coast-lino to San Luis Obispo.

* The steam pliip Ventura, in Apiil 1874, ran upon some rocks about a mile north of point Sur.
Outlying rnvks aiirl kelp were observed to the south-east of this rock at a considerable distance off
pbore. (U.B. Coast Survey, 1876),

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1.0>*DON .Inimui Inn i

HMiii

MONTEREY BAY.

201

Point rinos Light. — The Hghthonse upon point Pinos is 85 feet high, ard shows a
fiited light, at 91 feet above the sea, visible 15 miles. Its geographical position is
lat. 86° 87' 52", long. 121° 55' 59".

BKONTEBET BAT. — Point Pinos forms the south-west point of this bay, and point
Santa Cruz (the western point of the anchorage of Santa Cruz), the north-west point.
A line joining these two points runs N. 27° W., 19| miles, and the greatest width of
the bay, near the mouth of Salinas river, 9^ miles.

The only part of Monterey bay in which vessels can anchor in security is near its
southern part, oflf the town, at about 3 miles south-eastward from point Pinos, where
is good riding, and tolerable shelter for a few vessels. In order to be protected from
the sea, it is necessary to lie at no great distance from the south-west shore, whence,
either at night or in the morning, the prevailing wind from the land permits vessels to
leave the bay, which otherwise would be a tedious task, by the opposition of the wind
along the coast, the general direction of which is bptween N. W, and N.N.W. To these
points of the compass the anchorage is wholly exposed, but as point Pinos to some extent
protects it from the swell of the sea, and Ihese winds seldom blow stronger than a
moderate gale, the anchorage is tolerably aafe and convenient ; notwithstanding north-
westerly winds !\rc com on throughoi'.c the greater part of the j'ear, there are few
instances known of their buing so violent as to affect the safety of vessels tolerably well
found in anchors and cables. The s fundings are regular, from 30 to 4 fathoms, on a
bottom of sand and mud ; and, the siiores are sufficiently steep for all the purposes of
navigation, — without rocks or any known sunken dangers.

From point Pinos to the anchorage off the town of Monterey, the course is E. by S. ^ 0.
The shore towards the town is rugged, composed of granite, and covered with a heavy
growth of fir ; but eastward of the town ib .'•. long, sandy beach, backed by sand duneg
of slight elevation. For a distance of 10 niilos along this beach the line of 3 fathoms
lies at a distance of 150 yards from the shore, the water deepening rapidly beyond that,
and the bottom almost everywhere hard.

Vessels approaching ]\Ionterey from northuard, should follow the coast from point
Ai\o Nucvo to point Santa Cruz, then run well into the bay, but not too far, for fear of
losing the wind, and to avoid the set of tlio heavy swell rolling towards the beach.
Leaving point Santa Cruz and keeping on a S.l'I. by E. course about 15 miles, will
bring them into 25 fathoms, and nearly 2 miles from tho beach ; tlienco a South course
for 8 miles will bring them to tho anchorage in 10 fathoms, and I'lilf a mile from the
landing. These precautious are necessary, because point Pinos, with tho wh9le bay,
is almost continually enveloped in a denso fog. Very I'mjuently tho coasting steamers
have to run for the beach, and then be guided by the route to tho anchorage.

A direct course from point Amo Nuovo to the anchorage is S.E. \ E., and the
distance 80J miles. From point Pinos to point Afto Nuovo the bearing is N.W. \ W,,
and distance 31 mile!).

Py anchoring well in at tho western side of tho anchorage vessels will avoid much of
tho swell tliiit comes in with tho heavy north-west winds, but never suflicient to make
any berth tliero dangerous. In heavy southerly weather point Pinos breaks the swell,
but the wind draws very strong over tho anchorage. Tho wu,tor shoals from 15 to 3

202

POINT CONGEPCION TO POINT REYES.

1 5

fathoms in a distance of 800 yards, and the lead shoald be ased to avoid running in
too far.

When the California mail steamships stopped at Monterey they frequently ran oat-
side of point Pinos, or in very daugerons proximitr to it. This led to their firing a
gun when approaching the harbour during foggy oi- dark weather, and upon the report
being heard at the fort a gun was fired in answer, and the exchange kept up until the
steamer was safe at her anchorage.

The approximate geogrtphioal position of the end of the wharf, abreast the custom-
house at Monterey, is lat. 86° 86' 17", long. 121° 52' 27".

Tides. — The corrected establishment of the port of Monterey is lOh. 12m. The
mean rise and fall of tides is 8'4 feet ; of spring tides 4-8 feet ; and of neap tides, 2-6
feet.

The town of Monterey presents a very pretty appearance as seen from the water.
Immediately behind it the country rises in plateaux, diversified by hill and valley, and
beautifully dotted by oak groves. It was the capHal of California while under the rule
of Mexico, and for some years after it became a State.

Begular communication is kept up w.'th all parts of the coast by steamers and
numerous sailing vessels. Stages communicate with Santa Cruz and all the towns to
San Francisco.

Capain Beechoy R.N. (1827) says of Monterey — " The anchorage is in the south
angle of the great bay extending between point Afio Nnevo and point Pinos. It is
necessary to lie close to the shore, both on account of the depth of vater, and in order
to receive the protection of point Pinos, without which vessels could not remain in the
bay. It presents to the eye a ve"y exposed anchorage, but no accidents have ever
occurred to any vessel properly found in cables and anchors, in which respact it very
much resembles the bay of Valparaiso, nearly in the same parallel in the southern
hemisphere.

The town and presidio of Monterey are situated upon a plain between the anchorage
find a range of hills covered with woods of pine and oak. At the distance of a league
to the southward of the presidio lies the mission of San Carlos, situated in a valley
pear the river Carmel, — a small stream emptying itself into a deep rocky bay. The
shores of the bay, and indeed of the whole of the coast near point Pinos, are armed
with rocks of granite, upon which the sea breaks furiously; and, as there is no
anchorage near them on account of the great depth of water, it is dangerous to approach
the coast in light or variable winds. Fortunately some immense beds of sea-weed lie
ofi' the coast, and are so impenetrable, that they are said to have saved several vessels
which were driven into th^m by the bwcU, during calm and foggy weather.

Ships should not enter the bav in light winds in any other part than that used as
tvn anchorage, as tlierq is generally a heavy swell from the westward, and deep water
clopo to the shore.

It is impossible to mistake point Pinos, if the woallior bo at all clear, as its aspect
}s very different to that of any part of tho bay northward of it. It is a long, sloping,
Tocky projection, surmounted by pine-trees, from which it takes its namo ; whereas tho
poast line of tho bay is all sandy beach. There is no danger in approaching point

MONTEREY BAY.

208

Pinos, except that which may eneae from a heavy swell almost always setting upon the
point, and from light winds near the shore, as the water is too deep for anchorage.
With a breeze from southward, point Pinos should be passed as closely as possible; a
quarter of a mile will not be too near ; and that shore should be hugged in order to fetch
the anchorage. In case of having to mak< a tack, take care to avoid a sboal at the
south-east angle of the bay, which may be known by a great quantity of seaweed upon
it ; there is no other danger. This shoal has B^ and 4 fathoms u^on its outer edge,
and 7 fathoms near it. With a fair wind steer boldly towards the sandy beach at the
head of the bay, and anchor at about one-sixtl of a mile offshore in 9 fathoms, the
fort upon the hill near the beach bearing W.S.W., and moor with the best bower to
the E.N.E.

This anchorage, although apparently unsafe, is said to be very secure, and it ia also
stated that the only danger is from violent gusts of wind from the S.E. The north-
westerly winds, though they prevail upon the coast, and send a heavy swell into the
bay, do not blow home upon the shore ; and when they are at all fresh they occasion a
strong off-set in the bay. This I believe is also the case at Callao and at Valparaiso
to which, as before mentioned, this anchorage bears a great resemblance.

There is no good water to be had at Monterey, and ships in want of that necessary
supply must either proceed to San Francisco, or procure a permit from the governor,
and obtain it at Santa Cruz, or some of the missions to the southward. There is very
little current at the anchorage."

Monsieur Du Petit Thouars of the French navy 1837, says of Monterey — " When
making the bay, it will be known by a depression in the coast, while the land rises (q
an elevation of more than 8000 feet at the northern and southern extremities. When
in the latitude of point Pinos (8G° 39'), and near the shore, great white spot/i are seen
westward of the point, which render it sufficiently marked. To anchor, with a fail*
wind, run in to within 2 or 8 cables' length of the rocks seen from this low point, and
follow at the same distance the western coast of the bay, uptil point Pinos is shut in by
point Almeja. You are then in 15 or 16 fathoms water, on a bottom of sand and A
little mud, with good holding ground ; that is the anchorage ihr large vessels.

Small vessels run in nearer to the bottom of the bay, and anchor verj' nearly in a^
range with the battery, in 9 or 10 fathoms water, on a bottom of muddy jand, having
point Afio Nuevo (the northern extremity of the bay) shut in by point Almeja. Oa
account oi the calms, which frequently oblige vessels to anchor, it is necessary to
follow the western shore of the bay, neither too far off nor too noar. During adverpe
winds, vessels may safely beat about in the bay of Monterey, as the two coasts are
safe, the only danger being in the bottom of the bay, in the south-east anchorage,
This is a bank of rook, on which are from 4 to 10 fathoms of water ; but it is showi
by the kelp which floats on the surface. Fogs are very frequent, and sometimes render
it difficult to make the land j and it oftcu happens that it is foggy in the offing bui
cleat near the coast. During the rainy season (fron^ November to March), the win4
blows from S.E. to S.W. ; — S.E. is the wind of bad weather.

During tho ^ry season (March to November), the winds blow generally from N.W,
tp J^wth ; — N.W. is tho wind for good weather. Tho N. wind causoa a heavy bwqII iq

'ns

20i

POINT CONCEPCION TO POINT REYES.

the bay, but it is freqnoDtly less severe than in the oflBng. There is no perceptible
current in the bay. Outside it the carreuts are not strong, and appear to run north-
ward near the coast, and southward more iu the offing."

The Shore of Monterey Bay. — From the town of Monterey northward the shore
presents a uniform sand-beach running neaily North, backed by low dreary sand-dunes,
producing sparsely the coarsest grasses aud bushes, and entirely destitute of fresh-
water. This waste extends to Salinas rivsr, of which we reach the great bend at
about %^ miles from Monterey, and only 100 yards from the beach ; from point Pinos
this bend bears N.N.E. f E., distant 8^^ miles. From this bend the river follows the
line of the beach, just inside of the low saud-duues, for a distance of 4^ miles, and
then disembogues. This river rises in the latitude of the Piedras Blancas ; one branch
about 20 and the other 33 miles from the coast. These branches meet at San Miguel,
and thence the streams run parallel with the coast and behind the Sierra Santa Lucia.
From its mouth, which is only GO yards wide at low water, to the entrance of the
river Pajaro, the distance is 2.^ miles ; the shore trending to the N.N.W. ; the
entrance of that river bears N. by E., 14 miles from point Pinos.

From the river Pajaro the coast runs N.W. nearly straight to Atos creek, a distance
of, 7 or Similes ; this creek is about G miles E. by N. from Santa Cruz, and the shore
between is rocky and steep.

North of Salinas river commence rich meadow aud table lands, affording spots
unsurpassed for productiveness, even iu tho prolific state of California.

A remarkable sub-marine valley, similar to that off point Hucnemo (in lat. 84° 10')
haf? been discovered in this bay, and to some extent traced out. The head of the
valley is five-eighths of a mile south of the mouth of Salinas river, and the 20-fathom
line is at only a quarter of a mile from the beach, the depth increasing to 50 fathoms
in the next quarter of a mile. At this distance from the shore the 20-fathom lines are
three-eighths of a mile apart. Tho general direction of the valley for the next 2 miles
is S.W. ^ W. wher^ is a depth of 117 fathoms, and tliu 50-fttthom lines lie about five-
eights of a mile apart ; thence tho valjcy runs about West, reaching a depth of 170
fathoms in a mile, and 240 fathoms in 8.^ mile», with 42 fathoms less than a mile to
the north of this. The souiidiiigs as yet are not numerous enough to trace its outlines
in deep water ; but tlio indications are that, for 10 miles of its length, it runs S.W. by
W. i Wm v'i*h no bottom at 815 fathoms. Tho only available boat landing upon the
beach of the bay shorcR is at the head of this submarine valley. There are no indica-
tions on the laud of this peculiar formation, except that at its head the bay very
gradually reaches its greatest easting.

An extensive valley, called the Salinas plains, tlirough which flows Salinas river,
extends inland from tho eastern part of Monterey bay, nearly to the mission of San
Miguel, situated on a plateau of the San Bruno uionntiiinH. Tiiis valley is said to be
nearly 00 miles in length, and in breadth varying from 2 to 10 miles. It contains
some . 200,000 acres of good agricultunil lands, and tho remainder affords excellent
pasturage for horned stock, horses, and sheep,

HANVA CBOS. — This harbour or uuchorago is at the north-west part of tho bay of
J\Iontercy, and is of very limited extent. It is protected from all tho winds from north-

■

SANTA CRUZ.

205

ward, bnt exposed to the fall sweep of southerly gales, and many coasters have been
driven ashore during the winter season. It is about three-quarters of a mile in depth
northward, by 1^ miles east and west.

VpsssIs coming from northu-ard, after leaving point Ai'io Nuevo, follow "the coast-
line on a general course E.S.E. fur about 18 miles. The shore for this distance ia
steep, rugged, and moderately elevated, with a range of high hills or mountains,
whose summits in summer are almost continually enveloped in fog. Skirting the shore
at a distt nee of half a mile a depth of 6 to 10 fathoms can be carried, and upon making
point Sania Cruz, the top of which is moderately level for some distance back, sound*
ings of 4 fathoms are obtained within a quarter of a mile of it ; round up and run along
in 5 fathoms until abreast of the beach, where good anchorage will be found at half a
mile from shore.

Vessels from snuthu-ard in summer keep well into Monterey bay, to escape the full
force of the north-westers and the heavy head sea.

During the winter months it is recommended to anchor well out, so aa to be able to
clear the shore westward of point Santa Cruz in case a south-easter springs up.

Landing on the bench is generally disagreeable, as it extends out some distance, but
boats usually land at the embarcadero, at the foot of the bluif in the N.W. part of the
harbour.

The beach is over half a mile in length, and between its eastern extremity and the
bluff point empties the San Lorenzo river, a small stream running past the town and
mission, which is situated a mile inland.

The country about Santa Cruz is exceedingly productive, and now thickly settled.
A steamer runs regularly in the trade between this place and San Francisco, and
numerous coasters find abundant freight from here and the Pajaro country to San
Francisco. Regular stage communication is also maintained with San Francisco and
Monterey.

Light. — At about 100 yards from the extremity of Santa Cruz point is a small
square tower, from which is exhibited afi.ird white light, at 69 feet above the sea,
visible 14 miles. Its geographical position is lat. 30" 56' 56 ", long. 122° 1' 33".

The high mountain, N. 25° E. 12^ miles from Santa Cruz, is named mount Baohe,
and attains an elevation of 8701 feet.

Tides. — The corrected establishment of the port is lOh. 18m. The mean rise and
fall of tides is 4*1 feet ; of spring tides, 5*5 feet ; and of neap tides, 2*9 feet.

Th* COAST. — From point Santa Cruz to point Afio Nuevo the distance is 18 miles,
and the general direction is W. by N. } N., at first curving to the sout)\-westward of that
course, and then to the northward, until within 8 miles of tlie rock off point Ano Nuevo,
when the shore curves well to westward (fur the last mile to the south-west), and forms
an anchorage protected somewhat against the heavy swell from the north-west, in
which is a depth of 6 fathoms within less than half a mile of the shore, and 10 to
16 fathoms at the distance of a mile.

At a quarter of a mile from the point lies a black rugged islet, consisting of a sloping
ledge of rocks covered with a stratum of yellow clay about 4 feet thick, and this

;i I

r I

206

POINT CONCEPCION TO POINT REYES.

again covered with a mound of sand about 80 feet high.* The point itself is com<
posed of hills of shifting sand, varying from 20 to 100 feet in height, vhilu
behind them rises the Santa Cruz range of mountains.

Steamers coming upon the coast from southward in thick weather, always endeavour
to make the land near point Alio Nuevo, and then follow the coast to San Francisco bar.

From point Ado Nuevo the coast trends north-westerly about 5 miles to Pigeon point,
2 miles beyond which is a rocky point named Bolsa. The high mountain (Black moun-
tain) eastward from point Bolsa, bearing N.E. i E., distant 18 miles from the point,
attains an elevation of 2809 feet.

pfscon Feint xashti— On the extremity of Pigeon point, in lat. 87° 10' 46", long.
122° 28' 86", a light, flashing every 10 seconds, is exhibited from a conical brick
tower, painted white. The light is 150 feet above the sea and visible 18 miles. A
steam fog-whistle, 100 feet west of the tower, gives blasts of 4 seconds duration, with
alternate intervals of 7 seconds and 45 seconds.f

Two miles north of Bolsa point is the mouth of the PIscador, a small stream running
through a valley of inconsiderable extent.

From Bolsa point to Pillar point, forming the south and western point of Half-moon
bay, the general direction is N.W. by N. ^ N., and the distance 18 miles. At 8^ miles
above the Piscador is the San Gregorio, another small stream, and 2^ miles still farther
is the Tunitas. The seaboard between the valley of the Piscador and that of the San
Gregorio undergoes a striking change : instead of table land we meet with a spur of
the coast mountains running into the sea, and having an elevation of 000 feet within
a mile of it. The shore-line and the coast generally presents a very broken and
ragged appearance, occasioned by the deep gulches cut through to the ocean.

■Axr>xooir bat. — This anchorage is 6 miles S.S.E. from point San Pedro,
and 18 miles S. by E. from the Golden gate. The south-western point of the bay is
formed by a bluff table*land about 160 feet in height, called the Corral de Tierra, 825
yards south of which stretches a number of black rocks, which show as one when seen
coming up the coast, but as three or four when approached from north-westward ; the
largest is nearly as high as the bluff, and locally known as Sail rock, or Pillar rock.
The point is known as Pillar point, and from its south-eastern extremity rooky and
foul-bottom, marked by kelp, extends S.E. i E., seven-eighths of a mile, dropping
suddenly from 14 feet to 5 fiithoms; this is the inner reef, and makes the bay available
as a summer anchorage. At If miles south-east from the same part of the point a
narrow ledge of rocky bottom, a third of a mile long, and marked by kelp, stretches in
the same general direction. The passage between this outer and the inner reef is
three-quarters of a mile wide, with rocky and uueven bottom, from 8^ 1 . 10^ fathoms.
These ledges lie parallel with the coast mouutains, and with the shore-line from which

* On the Beaward side of Ano Nuevo island (in lat. 37° C 42", long. 122° 10' 61") a eteam fog-
whistle is established, which during fuggy weather is sounded for 15 seconds at intenrals uf 45 seconds.

t Pigeon point is about 38 miles south of " The Ooldon Gate," and 26 miles north of Monterey
bay. Fartllon light bears N.W. by W. i W. distanl 42 miles ; point Piuos, S.E. i E. 30 miles.

I!! ,1

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Faapa^e 206

LONDON , Jiuuri 1— truy *Snu

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S i

HALF-MOON BAY AND POINT SAN PEDRO.

207

the eastern extremity of the

the

the outer one is distant 1 1 miles. ^''

runs N.W. by N. foracj xrter ofanj.io; then N.E. for three-qnartersof amile, curving
to the eastward and south-eastward in a long bend, for 2^ miles to the mouth of the
Arroyo de los Pillarcitos, down which comes the only road crossing the peninsula of
San Francisco, between the Laguna de Mercedes and Santa Cruz. The highest part
of this road, which crosses a depression of the peninsula, is near the Coast Sui-rey
station " Bidge," which is 1098 feet above the ocean, and but a few * f.t higher than
the road. The outer reef is nearly abreast of the Pillarcitos, from which the coast
runs South 4 miles to Miramontes point, which is S. 48°£., 5 miles from Pillar point;
thence to the month of the Tunitas the distance is 4 miles S.£. The greatest extent
of the bay may be said to be between Pillar and Miramontes points, but the part near
the former only is available.

The soundings between the rocky ledges and the shore are quite regular, decreasing
from fathoms to 8 fathoms at less than a quarter of a mile from the beach, with
sandy bottom. The passage to the anchorage is between the inner and outer reef,
with the high, bare-topped mountain bearing a little north of East, and Pillar point
open to the westward. This mountain is steep, with stoaggling redwoods on its flanka,
and the summit bare. It is locally known as Bald Pate ; but, on the ": inish grants,
as Cumbra de las Auras. When inside the reefs beat up until Pillar point bear^
about S.W., distant half a mile, and anchor in 4^ fathoms hard sand. With southerly
light winds a heavy swell sets in ; but upon the approach of heavy south-east weather
it is necessary to go to sea.

The mass of redwoods cresting the mountains of the peninsula cease abruptly abreast
of Miramontes, and only stragglers are seen to the northward. They are a good mark
for recognizing this part of the coast when coming in from sea.

Around Half-moon bay is a limited extent of agricultural country at the seaward
base of the mountains, and small coasters carry the produce to San Francisco.

About one mile along the coast to tha north-westward is a small boat harbour,
100 yards wide, formed and protected by outlying rocks, and having 8^ fathoms in it.
In the autumn months it is used as a whaling station.

Point Ban Pedro lies N.W. by N. ^ N., 80 miles from point Afio Nuevo, and
S. by E. from point Lobos, at the entrance to the Golden gate. It is a black, bold,
rocky promontory, over 500 feet high, having a high, large, rugged rock at the
northern part, and is a prominent and excellent mark for making the entrance to San
Francisco. The principal rock is nearly 100 feet high ; its south face is white, and
shows the lines of stratification plainly ; — it is connected with the main by some low
rooks. Half a mile to the north-east of the point is the valley of San Pedro, from
which the point takes its name.

Fotj-uhistle. — A steam fog-whistle is established on Montara point, in lat. 87° 82' 2",
long. 122° 81' 9" ; during tog it is sounded for five seconds, with an interval of
25 seconds, then a blast of 10 seconds, followed by an interval of 20 seconds. It ia
distant 8^ miles S. by E. \ E. from point San Pedro, and 2| miles N.W. by N. from
Pillar point.

The range of mountains forming the north-eastern shore of Monterey bay, and

208

POINT CONCEPCION TO POINT RE^ES.

extending to Santa Grnz and point Ano Nuevo, is mimed Santa Crnz. Thence north-
ward to the Golden Gate, and forming the peninsular of San Francisco, hy hounding the
bay on the west, the mountains are known as the San Francisco or San Brnno range.

The extent of shore line from point Goncepcion to point Bonita is about 286 miles.

BAT or BAN FB&NOZBOO. — This bay affords the finest aud most commcdions
harbonr on the Pacific coast of the United States. From its discovery it has com-
manded the admiration of navigators, and, since the wonderful rise of California has
well sustained its reputation. Its geographical position, its size and depth of water, its
noble entrance and bold shores, the Sacramento and tributaries, draining the rich
agricaltaral valleys and auriferous slopes of the Sierra Nevada, the prosperous city npou
its shores, and the salubrity of its climate, have conspired to make it emphatically the
port of the Pacific*

The entrance to the bay is known as the Golden Gate ; it presents the character of a
great cleft or fissure in the sea-coast range of mountains, thereby connecting the bay of
San Francisco with the Pacific ocean. On approaching, it is difficult to imagine that a
deep channel lies ahead, so clear is the atmosphere, and so well defined the Contra
Costa mountains, behind the bay. Both shores are bold, broken into points, and
rocky ; but the northern is much the bolder, rising almost perpendicular from the water,
attaining an elevation of about 1000 feet, but a short distance back, and in 7 miles
rising to 2600 feet. On the south side, between the points, are stretches of low beach;
the hills are undulating and of moderate elevation, increasing very gradually in altitude
to the southward, and reaching a height of 1250 feet in about 6 or 8 miles.
' Point Bonita and z.igiit. — The north head of the entrance is formed by this point ; a
narrow, precipitous, rocky cape, nearly 800 feet high, and stretching from the light-
house about half a mile to the S.E. Behind it the mountains rise rapidly to an eleva-
tion of 1500 feet. During the dry season the deposit of sea birds accumulates in such
quantities on the ridge outside point Bonita lighthouse, as to make the bluff show
white, but the first heavy rain carries it off, and then, throughout the rainy, season,
the point exhibits its natural colour and tippearance. There are no dangers off the
point, the line of 3 fathoms rarely extending 300 yards from any portion of it. When
the clipper ship San Francisco was lost on this head, we are told that she first struck
the bluff inside the heads ; was carried by the currents around the point, and then
cast ashore on the outside. A depth of from 5 or fathoms can be found on every
aide of the point within 2 cables.

The new lighthouse on point Bonita is situated on the extremity of the point, and
consists of a brick tower painted white. It shows a Ji.red light at 806 feet above the
sea, visible 18 miles. Its position is lat. 37° 48' 48", long. 122° 81' 44". From this
light to that on Fort point the distance is 2] miles, and the bearing E. J N.

The old light-tower, white, is about a quarter of a mile northward of the new building
and is used as a day-mark only.

Upon point Bonita is a fog-signal house stationed behind the new lighthouse. It is

* Sae the large plan of the bu}' of San Fraucisco on the chart of the coast of California published
by Messrs. Imray and Son.

BAY OF SAN FRANCISCO.

209

provided >irith a powerful siren trumpet, which during foggy weather is sonnded for
14 seconds, at intervals of 85 seconds.

roint i«bos. — The soatl. head of the entrance to San Francisco bay is formed by
this point, which is 875 feet high. Upon the round-topped hill behind the point is a
telegraph station, having connection with the city of San Francisco. Southward of
the head the sand dunes are conspicuous and easily recognised features in approaching
the entrance. The quantity of sand driven in from this beach by the strong N.W.
winds of summer is enormous, aud it.^; accumulation has greatly modified the topo-
graphy of the peninsula.'!'

Off the western face of point Lobos lie a number of black rugged rocks about 50 feet
high, but all within the 5-fathom line, and close in shore. They are k' .own as the
Seal rocks, and one of them shows a large arch from particular directions. The outer
one bears from point Bonita S.E. by S. ^ S., and is distant 2^ miles. From it the
shore runs in a north-easterly direction for nearly a mile, to a short jutting high point,
off which lie the Mile r-.-:.ks. From this point the shore runs well to the eastward for
a uiile, gradually trending to the north for 1^^ miles to Fort point. In the deepest
part of this bend the shore is low, with small hillocks rising from the general surfiaoa
aud slope of the hills, and fronted by a long sand beach.

The Mile rocks are two small islets l>ing near each other, and having a height of 15
feet above water, with a good depth of water all around and close to them ; but the
current whirls aud eddies about them in such a manner as to render a near approach
anything but agreeable or safe with a light wind. The inner and smaller' rock is a
third of a mile northward of the small jutting point inside of point Lobos, and very
nearly 2 miles S.W. i S. from Fort point. Vessels running in on the line of I^'ort
point and Ajcatraz island pass less than half a mile from tho oytter and larger rock.
The rockji bear almost S.E. from Bonita light, distant 1} miles.

Fort Point and Liffbt. — This promontory is but a few feet above high water ; upon
it is a large fortification, which is mounted with guns of tho largest range and calibre.
Upon the hillside rising behind it are houses for the accommodation of tho soldiers, &o.
Eastward of the point is a wharf for receiving stores and ordnance.

Several largo vessels have been lost on Fort point by venturing too close during light
airs and strong irregular currents. Two rocks, dangerous to navigation, have been
discovered lying near the point ; a red buoy is moored outside them.f

fif

m
m

* We believe it is intended to erect a lighthouse uu point Lobos.

t The positions of two dangtious sunken rocks off Fort point, at the entrance to San Francisco
Itarbour, have been dctermiucd as follows : —

The first rock lies 840 feut off shore, N.W. by N. from Fort Point lighthoase, with 9i feet ou it
and 3 fathoms close to it, the water deepening to 7 fathoms at a distance uf 500 feet outside.

The second rook lies 3G0 feet off shore, N.E. Sy N. J N. from Fort Point lighthouse, with 11 feet
on it aud 4 fathoms close to it, the water deepening very rapidly outside. A rock, bare at low water,
lies half way from the second sunken rock to the shore, and ni'arly in range with the eastern edge of
the fort ; and another, bare at low water, 300 feet W. i S. from the latter.

It will be apparent that these sunken rocks are well inside the fair-way of the channel : but the;
are especially dangerous on account of the violent eddies of the tidal current which prevail in the
vicinity of the point, a close approach to which should be carefully avoided. (1874).

210

POINT CONCEPCION TO POINT REYES.

Upon Fort point is s lighthouse which shows & fixed light varied by red flnnhen.,
at 83 feet above the sea, visible 15 nnles ; the angle of visibility sertwanl is bouuiled
by the extremity of point Bonita bearing V/. \ 8., and poiot Lobos bearing
B.W. by. S. i 9. The light is fixed uhile for one minute, foIloi\e(l timing the next
minute by /our consecutive red fiashes. Its geographical position is lat. 37° 48' 81",
long. 122° 28' 86".

A fog-bell is stationed on the bastion of the fort. During foggy weather it is struck
at intei'vals of 10 seconds.

San FranciMo Bar. — The least depth on the bar off the entrance to the bay of San
Francisco is ^ I fathoms (1874) at the lowest tides. Its general form is that of it
horse-shoe, commencing 4 miles southward, stretching ont gradually to 6 miles
abreast point Lobos ; and when nearly up to the parallel of point Bonita, running
in shore towards that point and forming the " 4 fiithom bank," from a distance of
4 miles down to one. The average breadth of the bar within the limits of the G-ftithom
curve is about 2 miles. It falls off outside to 12 fathoms in half a mile, and deepens
gradually inside. The depth over the bar when pciut Bonita light bears between
N.E. by E. i E. and N, by W. i W. is not less than 4^ fathoms.

No vessel should anchor upon the bar if it can possibly be aveided ; frequently a
heavy swell sets in without wind, and if the current is running strong ebb, it allows
little chance of escaping from an uncomfortiblo berth.

The flood tide mates on the bar about fil minutes earlier than at San Francisco.

Three fainvay Iraoys are placed as a guide for vessels crossing the bar ; they are in
line with Fort point, bearing N.E. J E. The outer bnoy, bli/cl,- and nhite, is outside
tho bar, in ISJ^ fathoms, 10 miles diskmt from Fort point j it carries an automatic
fog-whisllo. The tniddlo buoy, block and vhife, is in 9^ fathoms water, 5^ miles
distant from the outer buoy. The inner buoy, hlnrk and vhitf, is in 20 fathoms water,
between I^nita and Lobos poiots and distant 2^ miles from the n;>iddle buoy.

The fog sometimes stands like a wall outside of a lino from Fort point across tho
entrance, while the bay inside is beantifiiliy clear. After tho greatest heal of tlie day
is passed tin-' fog creeps in and envelopes laud and water.

ronr-tauiam bank. — The shallow part of this Imuk, having a gtmnral depth of
8} and 4 lathoms, is about 2^^ miles in extent, east and west, and nearly a mile in
width. Its eastern extremity is about a mile westward of Bonita point ; the chfinjiel
between has a depth of 8 to 10 fathoms and is frequently used when tho b«! is inipass-
ftb)?. Two black buoys mark the Inuk ; the cast bnoy lies in 5.i fathoms, W. hy
B. i S. Ijj miles from Bonita point ; the west bnoy, off the west end of the bank,
lies "\V. by 8. i S. 8i miles from the cast buoy. The west buoy is not to be de-
pended on.

OotcT'jn Oat«. — On the north side of the (lolden Gato the whores are ver}' precipitous,
wit^i an occasional short stretch of snnd beach at the huso of the bluiFs, aifording a
bont landing. Point Diablo is the firsil ixiial inaiile Bonita, and bcavs N.E. l)y 10. ^ E.
distant 1 .v miles from it ; Ix'tween Hioho tlie Nluiro is indente(' about throe qmir',. i .i o'
a mile, alTordiug a bout landing during smooth wtiathor for the lightliouse peop) ■. In
the vicinity of Diablo the faces of tho cliilB show of a roddisli purple colour. Th(*

BAY OF SAN FRxVNCISCO.

211

•i
t4

red specks found ua the bar are duubtloss derived from the disiutcgraiion of these
reddish elitfs.

From point Diablo the shore is rugjjed and irregular to Limo Point bluff, 495 feet
high, distaut one mile, and bearing N.E. f £. Off this point are several high rocks,
but they are so close to the bluff as to be distiuguir^hable only from cortaiu directions.
From Lime Point bluff to Fort point the distance is barely a mile, and the bearing
B. by E. i E. This is the narrowest part of t' '■ Golden (Jute. Thence the bay
begins to open well to the uorth-cast.

On the south side, eastward ii'om Fort point, the shore is lew, flat, and murshy to
point San Joso, distant 2i miles, and bearing E. by N. This point is moderately
high, with a few houses clustering upon it, and is locally known as lilack p'nat. Off
this reach was the ' outer auciioraga ' of former navigators, and the Presidio of San
Francisco is seen a short distance behind it.*

From point San Jose to North point, at the base of Telegraph hill, the distance ia
one mile, and the bearing E. I N. All this space forms part of the city of 8au
Francisco, and is covered with houses. The shore-line is denominated the North
beach, and from about the middle of the lowest part projects a long wharf ov.r the flats
to 8 fathoms water. This has naturally caused a great deposit around .'o, and now
only 4i feet of water can be obtained at the north-west part of the wharf at mean low
water.

Telegraph hill rises to a height of 801 feet above the level of the bay, and is covered
with house i Its summit wherever building room can be obtained. The position of
the hill is considered to bo lat. 37° -18', long. 122" 28' It)".

Upon this hill was formerly a telegraph or semaphore, by which intelligence of tlio
arrival of vessels off tliu Golden Gate was made known to the city — hence the name of
the hill. In 1875 the summit of the hill was given to the City of San Francisco for
the purpose of a pleasure resort.

jUcatras Island and li^bt. — This, the first inland that is opened in entering the
Golden Gate, is nearly GUO yards long, in a W.N.W. direction, by about 2G0 in width,
and rises to an elevation of 135 feet above high water. The summit is flat, falling
away gently on all sides for some distance, and then at the sides dropping perpendi* '
cularly. Deep wator marks exist all round the island, and, with thi exception of one or
two places, tlie sides uro so steep that a landing is effected witli i' .lioulty. Extensivo

* " It ia a curious and iiitiTcstirig fact tliat tlie sand hr:\ch li'.ween Fort point and point Bun
Jost liiiH Ik'cii tlirowii up liy the mirf upon an extoiiHivo ulluvial d( posit, wliiuh Iiuh tli« olmractor nf a
\K'ftt lioK orswnniii. Wljcn tlic tidu ia very low tlie cd^'o of tiiiH )■ out formation may be aeon. Ijiirjio
luaHseH of tlio p'lat nro alao broken out dutin^' 8torni8, und tliiown up on the Hand of tlic bnncb.
Tbix Hiiiid and nil tlie Iikivo round boulderH, from U to 8 inelioB, or more, in diameter, reat upon a
foundation of tlic peat ; and the contiiiuRliou of tlio V'^xt is found in tlie Bwnaip or Hal aundow land
tvbicli lieH in.sido the belt of Band, and bet\ve(n it and the base of llie sandt^toiie liillH. It in my
ditHoult to aouount fur the I'ortuatiun of tliis Hwamp under ooucnionB like tboBn at preaout exixtijg.

A strong eunent in eonutautly sotting backward and forward throui^h the cliuuuel, and the action
of the surf constantly nnilenuines and eiieroanlien upon tlio boacli, bo tiiat the present action is
dentruutivn, and the swamp could not po^aibly liaru buou fornuid wlulo the Uolduu (late wan open
ai we now find it." Ocohjjiral lirport of the coaii of CuliJ'uniia, by \V. P. Blake, Esq.

p 2 4

t^l

t.i

;'T

212

POINT CONCEPCION TO POINT REYES.

fortifications are in conrse of constmction upon it. Ai iLe south-east side &.mnnU pier
has been built to receive stores, ordnance, and materials. Off the north- we»t part, foal
bottom makes out about 1^ to 2 cables.

The lighthouse on the summit of the island bears N.W. from Takgraph hill,
distant If miles; and from Fort point N.E. ^ E., distant nearly B miles. It exhibila
a fixed light at 166 feet above the sea, visible 14 miles ; its position is 1-it. 57° 49' 27",
long. 122° 26' 18".

On the south-eastern extremity of the island, close to the water's edge, is a fog-bell,
which is about 80 feet above the water. During foggy weather it is struck four times
at intervals of 9 seconds, followed by a pause of 28 seconds.

Shoals In tiia Bntranoa. — The following dangers occur inside the entrance, eastward
of the line from Fort point to Lime Point bluff : — *

Presidio shoo.i, having 8^ fathoms upon it, lies 1^ mile» inside of Fort point, and
bears N.E. by E. } E. from it. The shoal is about 8J cables long within the 4-fathom
curve, and over half a mile long within the 5-fathom curve. It is very narrow, shows
Bandy bottom, and has deep water all round it. Its general direction is on the above
montioned bearing. From the shoalest part the Presidio ffng-staff bears S. ) E. Near
the middle of the shoal is a buoy, coloured bUfck and ri>d in bands. f

Anita rock shows above water at low tides, and is situated IJ miles inside of Fort
point, and bears E. by N. from it. It is only li cables from the low beach, and has
deep water close '.vouud it. An iron beacon, surmounted by a cage, is placed on the
rock ; it is painted black and red in bauds. Vessels should not approach this beacou
within a cable, as a strong current sots across tho r(x;k.

Bird or Arch rock is a small pyramii'al rock, about 45 feet iu diameter, 18 feet
high, !',nd bearing W. f S., distant sevoneighths of a niilo from tho lightliouse on
Alcatraz island. When seon in the direction from or towards tho Presidio shoal, it
presents a perforation at low tides.

It I
4

• Tho following note was publioliod in the ypar 1874 : — In the recent Burvey of the Snn Francisco
bur, Nevernl Bhonl spots were discovered, having i>) nnt one fathom less than thn »v(-rsgo depth : and
the line of beat water acrusM the bar was doterinined.

1. A small spot, with 4i fntlioms, lies S. 6i° W. distant C miles fVoui Bonita lighthon.^e, and
S. 27° W. 4-2 milcB from Seal rock. A second spot, with tho simu water, lies W. { N. 413
yards from tlic former.

2. A Hinall spot, with H fathoms, lies B. 20" W. diHfnnt (i miles from Donita lighthonHe, and
S, 4!)° W. 4'2 miles from Seal rock. A second spot, witli tho sumo wntor, lies N.W. 1)45 yards
from tho former.

0. OlTtlip west end of the " Fo ir-fathom l)Bnk," o Rmall Hpot, with C-fatlionis, lirs B. 55° W.
distant C> miles from point lionita, and H, H2" W. 5-5 miles from Hoal rook.

The deepest water over the bar is wh«n Alcatraz island ia open a little more than its width from
Fort point, wlinre the bar is very narrow, and 6 fathoms can he oarriud ';v('r it.

t In the rcci jit nurroy of Han Francisno '.my (1871) a ridge having Icsx than 7 fathoms npon it was
develop«d. Tho ridge strctchos in an irregular curved linn from the /wirth-west point nf Alratraz
inland to tho rnstorn end of the PrAvidio nlioal, and lias an avcingo width nf H\ rahlcs within tho
7-fathoMi lino. Tho depth of water upon ii in nnt r*>gular, and tho slioaluMt spot yet disooverod Iihb
only 22 lt:it water upon it. at U>w sjiring tides. This spot lies in tho regular track of vosHels and ia
a danger to fhoso of large draught. It is about 100 yards long, luid tlic watrr around it dcepena
giodmilly to (i fathoms H. by W. and N. by E. It lios H.K. by E, { E. 7D0 yards from Bird rock,
Mid B.W. by W. k W. 1260 yards from Alcatraz. light.

BAY OF SAN FRANCISCO.

213

Shag rocfc is a low white-topped rock, about half a mile nearly N.N.E. from Bird
rock. From Alcatrax Island light it beare W. by N,, distant one mile. For about
H cables towards Alcatra* island the bottom is foul and in*egular, but outside that
limit 10 fathoms are found. The rock shovrs about 4 feet above the highest tides,
being then not more than 8 or 10 feet in extent.

Blossom rock, a ledge havinj* 22 i^ fett water upon it at the lowest tides, lies almost
utidway between Alcatraz and Yerba Buena islands ; it is about a cable in extent,
within the 4-fathom '•urve, with deep water outside these limits. A buoy, coloured
red and WocA; in bands, is moored on the rock. Vessels should not nppi-oach this buoy
from any direction nearer than 2 cables as there is a heavy tide-rip in the locality.

ir%a*a Bnena and Ugiit. — Yerba Buena is the large high island opened to the east
and south of Alcatrax after entering the Golden Gate. The western point of this
island beni"s N.E. by E. distant IJ miles fiom Telegraph hill. Its peak is 340
feet high ; the sides steep and irregular, and rising to a ridge running nearly east
;-;■'! west. On the western or San Francisco side the water is very deep closo in shore,
but from the north-west point a y-fathom bank extends 1 J miles N. W. by N., spreading
to the eastward for half a mile, nnd 'Ihcnce running to the north-east point. Close oft'
the north-west side of tlio island this bank is very shallow, there being aa little as one
foot water in some place. .

On the south-euat extremity of Yerba Buona island ajixed vhite light is exhibited,
at 97 feet above the sea, visible 15 miles. The lighthouse is a low hexagonal wood
tower paitttei light-buff colour. Its geographical position is lat. 37" 48' 17 ", long.
122° 21' 45" ; from it Fort Point lighthouse beai-s W, by S. k S. distant 5^ miles.

In front of the lighthouse is a fog-siguni station, at which a whistle is sounded for
4 seconds at intervals of IG seconds during foggy weather, A bell is sounded till the
eteiim is up for blowing the wb'stle.

Wi.ntward of Yerba Bueua island, distant three-qnartcrs of a mile, is the head of the
Oakland railway whaif ; the depth abroast the end of this wharf and iu the elmnnel
between it and the island averages 8^ fathoms.

AnK«i Island. — When passing through the narrowest part of the Golden Gate this
largo island bears iilwut N.N.E,, and is seen as an island for a very short time when
in the narr^nvest part <»f tito Guidon Gute. It baa an irregular and bold shore-line of
uboat 5 miles, and tin M<f% of one square mile. It rises to a height of 7/1 feet, is
covered with grass and bushes, and cut iii every direction by deep gnlleys. As seen
from the wuith-eastward it appears part of the northeiu peninsula, but is divided from
that on it« N.W. fiice by Raccoon straits, threo-quarto) < of a mile iu width, having a
deplii of water nuii^iii^; fn»iH 10 to il() futlioms, and a vory strong cttrrunt. A narrow
bigh JMttiug jH)int makes oiit from the S.K. portion of tiio island, bearing N. \ W.
from Alcatnii! ishiiid light, and distant IJ miles. From thifl head the general trend of
the southern fiico (or over a mile is W. by S.

aauo«iitd, — Half a mile N.N. W. from Tdmo Point blnff is point Cavnilo ; the shoro-
liiie between tlu'se points falls slightly Imrk, nnd a very small valloy maker, down fiom
bigh hills boliiud. From point Cavnilo tho gouoriil trend of tlio ahoro is N.W. by N.
for 1| mileti to point Haucelitu. One mile from point Ciivallo ia tho nm-horngc of

.'1

' 4

'"'h\

lis!

! i

214

POINT CONCEPCIOX TO POINT llEYES.

Saucelito, where men-of-war and whalers forraerly anchored. It lies abreast a few
houses forming the town of Saucelito, whence much of the wa'er u?ed in San Francisco
was formerly taken in steam water-boats. North of this anchorago is a )f»rge bay,
with but a few feet of water. From Saucelito point to the western point of Angel
island the distance is 1^ miles, and the bearing N.E. by E. I E. To Peninsula
poiui , forming the south-western part of Raccoon strait, the distance is one mile, and
the bearing N.E. § E.

Ban Pablo Strait, about 6 miles northward of Angel island, is a deep channel,
leading into St. Pablo bay, between San Pedro and Snn Pablo points ; it is about
li miles wide and 8 to 16 fathoms deep. From San Pablo strait to Mare island, at
the junction of the Mare and Karquines straits, the distance is about 10 miles in a
north-easterly direction. The numerous dangers in the vicinity of San Pablo strait
and in the channels between it and the Golden Gate may best be understood by
inspecting the large plan of San Francisco harbour (Admiralty chart No. 591), to
which we refer our readers. It will bo necessary, however, to describe the light on
East Brother island and that on the southern extremity of Mare island.

rast Brother Island z.lgbt. — East Brother island lies off San Pablo, point, on the
eastern side of San Pablo strai '. It has several shoals about it and should not be
closely approached. It exhil its a Yight Jlidihinfj every 80 seconds, at 63 feet above the
sea, visible 13 miles. The lighthouse consists of a square wood building ; and its
position i° lat. 37° 57' 40", long. 122" 25' 59". A fog-whistle, placed on the eastern
end of the island, gives blasts of 8 and 4 seconds, with intervals of 24 seconds
during foggy weather. From the liglithouso Penole point, San Pablo bay, bears
N.E. by N. i N., ii>a raihs; point San Pablo N.E. i E. ^% mile; wharf at Sau
Quentin S.W. 2^^^ miles.

Mare Island Light. — k fixed ivhite light is exhibited from the extreme sonth-easteru
end of Mare island, at the entrance from San Pablo bay to the strait of Karquines.
The light is 76 feet above the sja and visible 14 miles. Position, lat. 38° 4' 17",
long. 122° 15' 10". During foggy weather a boll is sounded.

The hills to the northward of the lighthouse rise to a heiglit of about 300 feet above
the water, forming a dark back-ground. Tiio red buoy, No. 4, at the juncture of
Mare and Karquines straits, is distant half a mile E. .} S. from the lighthouse.

Sireetiona. — When approaching tho coast every opportunity should bo seized for
dclorniitiing the vossd'a position, as fogs and thick weather prevail near the land.
Vessels coming froui snutliuard make tho coast about point Afio Nuovo (lat. 87° 7'),
and follow it at a distance of 4 or C miles up to tho bar. Steamers keep close under
the laud ll,'' fear of losing it in fi>ggy weather. (Owning from we»tuanl they first sight
tho South Fanillon island (Int. 87° 42), and keep upon eitlior side of it; but it is
proferablo to go southward of it, especially in tliick weallior and at niglU, as tho vicinity
of tho island has not yet been minutely surveyed (1875.) From South Farallon light-
house point lUmita light bears N.E. by E. distant 23J miles. Coming from nnttli-
MeHwnrd vessels make point Reyes (597 foot high, in lat. 88° 0', long. 128" 0) and pass
within 2 or 8 miles of it, 15 fathoms being found within a quarter of a mile from it»
but they ure apt to lose tlic wind b) getting too dose under it. From the wcsleru

BAY OF SAN FRANCISCO.

215

extremity of this point Boiiita Poii't light bears E. ^ S., distarut 25} miles, the liuo
passing over the tail of Duxbury reef, at a distance of 17^ miles from point lieyes.

Three fairway buoys (described on page 210) are moored on the prolongatiou of tha
range from Alcatraz island to Fort point, giving a course N.E. § E. for vessels
entering the Golden Gate, and designated by Belcher the " fair-way line." In clear
weather and with a favourable wind a vessel can cross the bar in not less than
4| fathoms from the line, having the north end of Alcatraz island just open of point
Bonita (N.E. by E. J E.), round to the sLore south of point Lobos (N. by W. J W).
Northward of the former line the -l-faLhom bank (having 3J fathoms on it) commences
vue mile west of Bouita, and stretches out over 8 miles, with a breadth of one mile.

Between the eastern extremity of the " 4 fathom bank" and the shore, the distance
is § of a mile, and within tJiis space can bo found the deepest water for entering tha
harbour, but it would be daugcrous far a sailing vessel to attempt it with a dood tide
nnd light winds. While it is breaking on the bank only a heavy swell is found through
this 8 ^-fathom channel, and small sail-boat ■< have passed in safety when they dared
cot try the bar Close in under the cliti's, or 2 or 3 miles above Bonita, is anchorage
iu 8 fatlioms, with muddy bottom.

During clear, moderate weather any vessel can cross the bar, withiu the limits we
liave mentioned, without running until she has" got on the ' fair-way line,' whereby
she might lose her slant of wind. Should tha wind fail, or be light, and the current
adverse, anchor outsid^i the bar in 15 iathoms, mud and fine sand ; or, after crossing
the bar, in C to 10 fathoms, fine gray sand, with red specks iu some places. Bun in
mid-channel between the heads ; avoid too close proximity to the northern shore, not
only in entering, but in leaving ; the high, bold bluO's causing culms and baffling airs,
even with a south-easter blowing out, iietweeu Fort point and the opposite shore,
take special care not to approach Fort point too close, Uxjau.so the currents sot around
it irrcguliuly and with great rapidity, and tho botti>m is uneven and rocky.* A
depth of GO Hithoms is in the centre of the channel. In the Golden Gate an ebb
current has been measured running about G miles per hour. As a general rule, the
winds increase within the heads, drawing in very strongly abreast of Fort point. When
off tliis point steer for Alcjitraz lighthouse until the north point of Telegraph hill
boais E. by 8., then steer to give it a berth of a quarter of a mile, running through
among tho shipping.

In making the port at night it is customary to run for tho whistle buoy and
croH? the bar with Fort Point light on witii Alcatraz Island light, or bettor, the
latt'T a little open to tho northward. But (iiis practice frequiwjtly involves macU
delay and annoyance when the wind will not permit a vessel to attain this position
without a tock. With Bouita light bearing from N. by W. to N.E. by E. a
tttssel may boldly run on within those limits, and, unless there be a heavy swell,
safely crosH the 4fiithom bank. Give Bonita a berth of a mile, and when withiu tho
h*-A(lH, and lionita abeam, ^radunlly open Alcatraz light north of Fort point, until abeam
of tbe latter ; then run for Akatra/ until i he lights of tho shipping show the vessol'i

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POINT COMGEPCEON TO POINT REYES.

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position. Hauling np for them, anchor off the north beach in 10 fathoms, or offtbe
north-east front of the city in 10 fathoms, soft mud.

In coming upon the coast in thick foggy weather, sailing vessels shonld not mn into
less than 60 fathoms because the water around the South Farallon, and o'f points San
Pedro and Reyes, h very bold. It is believed, however, that a 80-fathom bank exists
at a considerable distance westward of the latter. South-west of the line passing
through the Farallones and Noonday rock, the lOO-fathom curve is only 4 miles distant,
and the 50-fathom curve only 2 miles, with a very in-egular bottom. If the Farallones
be made, a course can be easily laid for the bar, but it would be unadvisable to mn
into less than 10 fathoms, soft mud, if the whistle-buoy bo not heard, as the set and
strength of the currents oif the bay are yet undetermined. Belcher says that, being
caught in a fog, he anchored in 15 fathoms, to the southward of the bar, and deter-
mined *' that southerly of the fair-way line the ebb tide set N.N.E., flood S.S.W."
We suppose he means from the N.N.E., and from the S.S.W. During the season of
freshets in the Sacramento and tributaries the discoloured water outside the bar will
frequently point out the position of the entrance.

Steamers in thick weather used formerly to run close along the coast, and en-
deavoured to make the land north of point San Pedro, running in until they got about
^ -J I'dthoms, and then laying a course for the bar, shoaling upon it to about 5 fathoms,
and then gradually deepening, while the fog-gun (now replaced by a siren-trumpet)
gave the direction of Bonita light.

The U.S. sloop-of-war Vincciines, during the cruise ';f the Exploring Expedition,
anchored on the bar in a calm, and, when the flood tide made, it brought up a swell
that broke over her.

In heating out, the best time to start is on the Inst quarter of the flood. Having
avoided the Blossom rock (on which the depth is .',2^ feet) proceed westward through
the channel between Alcatniz and the south shore, avoiding Pird rock, one mile
west of the south end of the island, and giving a good berth to Fort point, past
which the ebb current rushes rapidly (with a strong tendency towards the south shore) ;
a couple more tacks will carry clear of the licnds. If the vessel be bound northward,
and the weather shut in thick, Avith the wind to the north-west, tack off shore south-
ward of the For»ulones ; if the weather be clear make short tacks off shore until up to
point Reyes, because the sea to the leeward of that headland is much smoother and
the current lobs; then stand off until a cohiro can be niailo for the port of destination.
^■rinda. — From April to October, inelnsivo, the ]novailiii^ wind is from the north-
west, ohanguig to west in valli\vn opening u])im llio const, but in no case so strongly as
throogh the Go'ddn (i^ate. During thes nninier the wind sets in strong about lO/i. a.m.,
iiutreasing until nearly sunset, when it liogins to die away. During its height it almost
regularly bring* m a dense fog, which, working its way ovor ilic poniusuln, meets that
already advanced thrt>a>»b tlic (ioKlen (tuto, and ciivolopes San Francitico nud the bay
by sunset. Ah a rule, tlid broozo docs not dispell the fog. It' n fog exist outside, the
wiud 18 sure to bring it m, but the heated oiirUi dissipates it for a time.

From Novdmler to March the wind is frequently from tlio south-oast, blowing
heavily, working round to the south-west, with a largo and broken swell from the H.W.,

n i

BAY OF SAN FBANCISCO.

217

weather tbick, rainy, and squally ; the wind not unfrequently ending at N.W., with ar*
ugly cross sea. During heavy south-easters the sea breaks upon the Son Francisco
bar, clean across the entrance, presenting a fearful sight. The sound can bo heard at
the anchorage in front of the city.

During some winters a hard '•norther" will spring up and blow steadily and
strongly from one to five days, with a clear blue sky, and cold bracing weather. Winds
rarely blow from points between North, round by the east, to South-east.

The further north we advance, the heavier blow the gales in the winter. The north-
west winds are not predicted by the barometer, but, those from the south-east, almost
invariably ; the mercury falling one inch from its usual height of 80 inches. When
it begins to rise, the wind may generally be looked upon as soon to shift round by the
west, and to decrease.

On the tops of the mountains bordering the coast, light variable and easterly airs
are frequently experienced whilst the north-west winds are blowing freshly along the
seaboard. Upon Sulphur peak, in latitude 88° 4G', and 26 miles from the coast, fresh
breezes from the E.N.E. have been experienced whilst the usual north-west winds
were prevailing off shore.

Tides. — The con'ected establishment of the port at San Francisco, is 12h. Gm.
The mean rise and fall of tides is BG feet ; of spring tides 4*8 feet ; and of neap tides
^/8 feet.

TJi« OOA8T. — From point Bonita to Duxbury point, forming the west side of
Ballenas bay, the course is W. by N. J N., and the distance 9^ miles. The point,
sometimes called Ballenas, is a table land about 100 feet high, which stretches along
the coast for a mile or more, and gradually rises to a narrow, nearly treeless ridge,
1889 feet high at its greatest elevation, and running in a straight line 25^ miles
N.W. i W. to Tomales point. The old Californians expressively call it the Cuchilla
Grande. Parallel to this ridge on the east, and starting from the west end of the
great cross ridge of Table mountain, runs another to the north-westward, and the
depression between them, abreast of Duxbury point, forms Ballenas bay, as it does also
Tomales bay further up the coast. This depression forms a long narrow valley, well
watered and timbered, and in many places cultivated. Two streams, running into each
bay, have their sources nearer the bay from which each runs.

Duxbury reef makes out IJ miles S.V,. ^ S. from the southern extremity of the
point, and stretching towards point Bonita, forms a safo anchorngo in northerly
weather. From the tail of the reef ij the rocky point E.N.E. from it, the distance is
8 miles, and from this line to the greatest bend of the bay tho distance is IJ miles.
In tliis bay tho H-futhom lino makes off thrce-fju triors of a mile from tho south-cast
face of Duxbury point, but approaclips tho low sand beach cast of tho narrow entrance
to the lagoon. From 4 to 8 fathoms water, with a regular bottom of sand and mud,
are found in tho bay, and (5 fathoms quite close to tho reef. From Duxbury point to
the bluff at tho outranoe to the lasjoou, tho distance is l\ milos N.E. by N.

Tho lagoon north of the bay is at the foot of tho mountains, and, except small
crookod chaniiclH, is bare .d low tidi'S, and fillod with hiiiiiH islrtH. Tho south side of
this lagoon is bounded by a long, narrow sand spit, strelciiiug ho nearly across it as to

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218

POINT CONCEPCION TO POINT REYES.

■■■«:

eave an entrance of but 100 yards wide at the south-west part of it. Only a few
small vessels run between this place and San Francisco.

The shoi-e north of Bonita point is bold and high, presenting a marked and peculiar
undulating surface at right angles to the sea front.

North of Diixbury point the hold rocky shore con .ues bold and high, but gradually
merges into cliffs, consisting chiehy of yellowish clay and sand resting upon granite,
and, as the surface is regularly undulating, with the direction of the alternate ridges
and valleys at right angles to the shore, the wearing action of the surf forms a con-
tinuous series of round-topped, bright, vertical bluffs, averaging nearly 100 feet in
height, and presenting a very noticeable feature from the sea.

The mountains in the back ground rise over 2000 feet, and the ' Table mountain '
of Beochey, attaining an elevation of 2G04 feet, stretches nearly 2 miles inland at right
angles to the coast, and forms a prominent mark from seaward and from the bay of
San Francisco. A few large trees are seen along the top of the main ridge running
parallel with the coast and beliind the valley, connectiug Ballenas and Tomales bays.

Table mountain is a very sharp ridge, showing flat-topped only in two directions.
From South Farallou liglithouse it boars N.E. ^ N., distant 24 miles. The geo-
graphical position of the eastern peak is lat. 37° 55' 8G ', long. 122° 83' 88".

Drake Bay. — From the tail of Duxbury reef to the west end of point lleyes the
cor.rse is W. J N., and distance 17i miles. To t^e east end the caurse is W. by N.,
distance 14§ miles. From Duxbury tho shore is bold and compact, running nearly
N.W. by W. for about 10 miles, then curving regularly to the westwai-d, changing to
a low shore, until it reaches its greatest latitude at the Estero de Liraantour, which
bears N. by E. -J E. from the east end of point Reyes, distant 3 miles; thence the
line curves to the southwai-d and south-west, one mile west of the point, leaving a long,
high, narrow point stretching to tho east, and off which the breakers extend half a
mile. This curving shore-lino forms Sir Francis Drake's bay, which affords a large
and admirable anchorage in heavy north-west weather ; and by anchoring close in
under the north side of the point, in 4 or 5 fathoms, hard bottom, good but contracted
anchorage is obtained in south-east gales, us tho swell rolling in from the S.W. is
broken by tho reef.

Several esteros or lagoons open into the north side of the bay, but their entrances
are very narrow and shoal. The largest is tho Estero do Limantour, which stretches
to tho northward over 8 miles, and one of its numerous arms approaches within a mile
of the occau beach, 5 miles north of point Reyes head. The entrance to this lagoon
has 8 feet of water, and is generally marked by breakers on either hand. Coasters
can enter with the prevailing north-west wind.

rozKT nEYBS. — This is the most prominent and remarkable headland north of
point Concepcion. It is distinctly visible from tho entrance to San Francisco bay,
and the summit of the ridge presents an irregular rugged outline, with the highest
part about one-fourth of its length from the weslcru extremity. Its southern face is
a precipitous wall of hard sieuitic granite, rising boldly from the occau, attaining an
elevation of 697 feet in 800 yards, and stretching nearly iu a straight line E. by N.
and W. by S. for 8 miles. This direction is peculiar ou tho coast, and would not bo

POINT liEYES.

219

expected from a consideration of the trend of the coast mountains niid of the Furull-
oues, which are in line N.W. aud S.E. On the north aide the cape fulls away regularly
to a low undulating neck of land, cut up by esteroa making in from Drake hay. Wlien
made from southward it is raised as a long, high island ; but on approaching it from
westward it is projected upon the mountains running north from Tabic mountain, and
its characteristics are not so readily recognized. Its base is very broken and rocky,
and bordered by crags and hundreds of rocks, but may be boldly approached, and
8 fathoms, hard bottom, obtained within less than a quarter of a mile. Ofi" the eastern
extremity a reef makes out half a mile in continuation of the point. Upon this roof
the sea breaks heavily in bad southerly weather, but 9 fathoms can be had close to the
breakers. 0£f the western head a depth of 12 fathoms is found quite near to the rocks.*

Point Beyes Ugbt. — On the pitch oftho western head of point Reyes is a lighthouse
from which is exhibited a light jJashuitf at intervals of 5 seconds ; it is 290 feet above
the sea and visible 24 miles. The lighthouse is constructed of iron and is sixteen-
Bided; its geographical position is lat. B7° 59' 30", long. 123° 1' 21". During fog a
steam-whistle is sounded for 8 seconds at intervals of 52 seconds.

From point Reyes lighthouse point Bonita lighthouse bears E. J S., distant
27i miles ; South Farallon lighthouse S. by E. | E., 17| miles ; point Arena light-
house, N.W. i W., 67 miles.

Vessels bound to San Francisco from northward always make point Reyes, and,
when up to it, sight two mountains on the southern peninsula of San Francisco as
islands. One of these is Blue mountain, 1100 feet high, and the other, Abbey hill,
1250 feet.

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THE FARALLONES.

SOUTH rARAZ.x.oi7. — The southern and principal one of the six rocky islets known
as the Farallones de los Fraylcs, lies off the Golden Gate at a distance of 23.^ miles ;

* A shoal had long been known to exist some miles westword of point Reyes, a cast of 30 fathoms
liavioR been made in that vicinity as early as 1853. Wlicn surveyed in 1873 " tlie least water found
was 25 fathoms, about one mile S.E, i E. from the central point of the shoal. Within the curve of
00 fathoms the shoal is 5 miles long, with an average width of IJ miles ; but it is 12 miles long,
and 5 miles wide within the 60-fathom curve. Its longest axis is in a direction N.W. and S.E., or
nearly in the prolongation of a line through the Fiirallon islands." Sounding within the 30-fathon)
curve, the lead failed to bring up specimens of bottom, it proving to he rocky; the armed lead
brought up live barnacles. Outside of this curve there is a deposit of white shells, broken fine.
Beyond the depth of 40 fathoms, course black sand, mixed with gravel and broken shells, was found.
The peneral set of the current appeared to be in a Boutherly direction, with a velocity of about one
to IJ knots per hour. The water grodually deepens from the shoal toward the mainland, attaining a
depth of 70 fathoms, after whicli it shoals again toward the shore. It is probable that depths of
less than 25 fathoms may yet bo found within tlie limits of this shoal, it will therefore receive further
attention, because of its importance to vessels coming from the northward in thick weather. A
ohange of sffell is rapidly perceived upon the shoal.

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THE FARALLONES.

the whole groap is disposed in a nearly straight line running N.W. from the sonthem
one. This is the largest and highest, extending nearly a mile east and west, attaining
an elevation of about 840 feet above the sea, and presenting to the eye a mass of
broken rugged rocks, upon which no vegetation exists, except a few stunted weeds. The
rocks are sharp angular masses, which, becoming detached by the operations of natural
oauses, roll down upon the more leval parts of the islet and cover it with irregular boul-
ders. A more desolate and barren place can hardly be imagined. From the hills about
the Golden Gate the South Farallon is plainly visible, rising in regular pyramidal form.

Vessels from westward, running for the Golden Gate, should keep southward of the
South Farallon, especially in thick weather and at night. Westward of it a depth of
60 fathoms is obtained at a distance of 3 miles, shoaling to 20 fathoms in 2 miles ;
whereas, inside of it, the bottom is very regular at 80 fathoms for 10 miles, and then
decreases regularly to the bar. On the south-east side of tllie island there is said to be
^ood holding-ground iu 15 fathoms. The San Francisco pilot-boats cruise off the ibland.

tight.— The lighthouse on South Farallon is in lat. 37" 41' 49", long. 128° C 4",
it stands on the highest peak of the rock. The light flashes at intervals of one minute,
is 360 feet above the sea, and visible 26 miles over the entire horizon. From it the
North Farallon bears N.W. by W. J W., 6| miles; western head of point Reyes,
N. by W. i W., 17i miles ; point Bonita lighthouse, N.E. by £., 28^^ miles; and
point San Pedro, East, 28^ miles.

About half a mile S.E. i E. from South Farallon lighthouse is a sunken rock having
a^ fathoms water on it, and 13 to 16 fathoms between it and the island ; the sea
breaks on it only in heavy weather. The pilots report having observed breakers
between the South and Middle Farallones ; this rock is supposed to have only 8 or
4 fathoms water over it.

avzDDX.li FABALXiOir. — This is a single rock, between 50 and 60 yards in diameter,
and rising 20 or 80 feet above the water. It lies N.W. by W., distant 2J miles from
the lighthouse on the South Farallon. Its geographical position is lat. 87° 48' 82",
long. 123° 1' 55".

A sunken rock, with 5J fathoms water on it, and 8 to 10 fathoms close around it,
lies about half a mile S.S.W. J W. from the Middle Farallon and 2J miles
W. by N. I N. from the South Farallon lighthouse. With a high sea running
breakers have been observed upon it. The depth between the rock and the Middle
Farallon is 18 fathoms, and between it and the South Farallon 15 to 20 fathoms.

IVORTB rARALLONBS. — These lie nearly in line with each other and the Middle
and South Ftinillones, and consist of a group of four islets, having a pyramidal
appearance as their name denotes, and comprised within a space of little more than
half a mile square. The northern three are quite high and bold, the highest peak of the
middle one attaining an elevation of 160 feet, whilst the southern one of the group is a
mere rock of about 85 yards in diameter, and hardly 20 feet above water. Viewed
from Bouth-wcflt or north-east, breakers extend across from the largest islet to the next
one south-east, and during a heavy ground swell, an observer on Reyes hill has
watched the sea breaking on an isolated sunken rock lying apparently between the
northern and largest islet. From certain directions a small pyramidal detached
peak shows cloio to the north side of the uoithorn islet.

«OOKDAY ROCK.

221

The northern islet is in lat. 87° 46' 11", long. 128° 6' 25", and has an extent of
160 yards.

It is said that a rock of 4 fathoms, upon which the sea breaks in bad weather, lies
2 miles sonth-eastwnrd from the North Farallones, aud that it has kelp around it,
except when torn away by storms. In good weather the fishermen are reported to fish
around it.

xroonday Hoek. — This danger lies nearly on the prolongation of the line from the
South Farallon, through the North Farallones, and is distant about 8 miles W. by N.
from the latter. It is of very limited extent, and has 20 to 80 fathoms immediately
around it. When examined in 1874 it was discovered that the rock terminated in
three pinnacles, and that one of the peaks had only 14 feet water over it at mean low
water. In very heavy weather and low water the sea breaks upon it, but this indica-
tion seldom exists, and must not be depended upon for ascertaining its position. From
it point Reyes (western head) bears N. by E. ^ E., distant 18V(t miles; North
Farallon, E. by S., distant 87^0 miles ; South Farallon lighthouse, E. by S. f S.,
distant 9^0 miles ; and point Bonita lighthouse, E. by N. | N., distant 80 f'^ miles*.

In the description of the South Farallon, and in the directions for approaching Snn
Francisco, we have heretofore advised vessels approaching the Golden Gate at night
and in thick weather to keep southward of the South Farallon light. This advice has
now more significance, and should be followed. With point Reyes and the Farallones
in sight, vessels bound in and running between them should keep the western head of
point Reyes open on a N.N.E. course, coming nothing to the eastward, until the
North and South Farallones are in range, then bear away for the Golden Gate. In
that position the rock r/ill bear S.E., distant 2^ miles. Coming from north-westward
at night, vessels should not bring the South Farallon light to bear anything east of
S.E. by E., which will clear the rock by 2 miles, and the North Farallones by one mile.

South-west of the line passing through the Farallones and Noonday rock, the
100-fathom curve is only 4 miles distant, and the 60-fathom curve only 2 miles, with
very irregular bottom,f

POINT REYES TO CAPE CLASSET.

Magnetic Variation in 1880 :— Off Point Beyes 16i° E. ; Point Arena 17^ E. ;

Cape Mendocino 18° E. ; descent City 18^° E. ; Cape Orford 19^° E. ;

' Cape Foulwoather 20i° E. ; Columbia River entrance 21^° E. ;

and Cape Classet {or Flattery) 22^° E. lite annual increase

is estimated to be 2 minutes.

Th« OOA8T. — Northward of point Reyes is a long reach of broad white sand beach,
backed by sand dunes, and extending in a N. i E direction about 12 miles, curving

• It is intended to redace the dangerous character of Noonday rock by blasting. One of the
pinnacles litis already been removed ; and its former site, over which there are now 34 feet water,
is indicated by a large buoy. (1879).

t In 1803 a shoal with 5 to 7 fathoms water on it, was reported to lie about 80 miles S.S.W.
from the South Farrallon. Its approximate geographical position from the above data is lat. 36° 42',
long. 121"' 10'. Its existence is considered very doubtful.

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222

POINT REYES TO CAPE CLASSET.

to the north-west, and changing to a high precipitous coast running to point Tomalefli
which bears N. by W. 15 miles from point Reyes. Three-quarters of a mile before
reaching the point, a rocky islet, 80 feet in height, is seen close in shore. Eight miles
above point Reyes is the opening to an estero, the north point of which is low and
sandy; the wider arm runs one mile towards the head of the western branch of tho
Estero de Limantour, a little more than that distance from it ; the other aim runs
nearly 1 i miles to the north-westward. The ridge forming Tomales point and the
western shore of Tomales bay is the northern extremity of that starting from Dnsbnry
point. About 4^ miles from the point the ridge is 673 feet high, with slightly lower
ground a few miles south. It is where the sand dunes strike this ridge that the
coast changes its character ; thence to the point it is bold and rocky, with breakers
about a third of a mile oflf the point, and on the prolongation of the ridge, which
averages less than three-quarters of a mile in breadth for the last 4 miles.

The bay of Tomales extends from Tomales point S.E. i E. for 12^ miles, with an
average width of nearly a mile. The entrance is narrow, and obstructed by a bar
having a depth of 10 feet, between sandy lumps of 7 feet. The bar lies nearly half a
mile east of the extreme point, and 2 cables from the bluffs. It is exposed to the
full force of the north-west swell, and with the least swell from seaward it breaks
across the whole entrance. For 2 or 8 miles this bay is contracted, but has a narrow
deep channel close under the western shore. Four miles within the point lies a small
island near the middle of the bay ; beyond it the depth of water becomes more regular.
Its shores are becoming thickly settled, and ti-ade in agricultural products bat
increased so much that a small steamer has been put upon the route to S'^n Francisco.

Bodega B«ad. — This point lies N.N.W. 18 miles from point Reyes, and forms thu
northern point of Bodega bay, Tomales puiut being the southern. The head is
200 or 800 feet high, with a slightly rounding summit, and continues of nearly the
same height for a mile or two northward, whore it changes to a broad sand beach with
low country near, but high hills in the back ground. The face of the land about here
begins to change from its uniform want of trees to hilla partially covered. The highest
part of the head is about 205 foot above the sea. The position of the head (one mile
from its south extremity) is kt. 88" 18' 20', long. 128° 2' 47".

BODBOA BAT. — From Tomales point to Bodega head the course is N.W. } W.,
and the distance 4} miles. Tho average width of the bay eastward of the above line
is 1} milor with tho shore running nearly a parallel course. It is bordered by
numerous rocks, is abrupt, and roaches a height of 5U4 feet less than a mile inland.
The anchorage lies between the head and the mouth of tho Estero Americano (called
Avatcha by tho Russians), which lies E. by N. i N., 2f miles from the head. One
mile west of the Estero a low narrow sand-spit, 1^ miles long and covered with bushes,
stretches towards tho head, within 100 yards of it, whore a passage cxiHts fur the waters
of the extensive lagoon north of the sand-spit, having small and intricate channels,
but almost destitute of water at low tides. The anchorage is half a mile outside of
this passage, and about N. | E. of the rocky islet, in 6 or fathoms, hard bottom of
coarse sand and small patches of clay. It is protected by tho head and tho low rocky
slot and roef, about throe quarters of a mile off the south-east face, from the full force of

Fcu»pa^€ •

BODEGl^TOMALES ABRAEES

BAYS

Nantic Ifilei

1 • > « 6

Sounding in Faithoms.

1 .MluiN ,Imii»« liHrnv,« S,>

mpp'

BODEGA BAY.

828

the north-west swell, which generally rolls in disagreeably in the open part of the bay if
the weather is heavy. The reef is densely covered with kelp, and the breakers usually
indicate its position. Between the islet and the head there is a narrow 4i-fatbom
passage opening directly npon the anchorage. In coming from the north-west in
summer this channel is available ; but in beating out it is too contracted to be safe.
During the winter season it is necessary to anchor well out, to be ready to slip and
run, as the sea-room is very contracted and swell heavy. Some vessels have ridden
out heavy south-easters, but several have been lost. In beating out, the only danger
is the reef off the head.

On account of the general depression of the coast-hills behind Bodega bay, to
about COO or 600 feet elevation, and the valley in which the Estero Americano lies
being perpendicular to the coast line, the summer winds draw in towards the Petaluma
valley with great force. The trunks of the oak trees rise straight for about 10 feet,
then bend almost at right angles, without a branch for 10 or 16 feet, and terminate in
a clump of branches all dragged out by the force of the wind. Fogs are found
drawing in sooner and more frequently than upon any other part of the coast.

The country in the vicinity of the bay is very productive, both in the valleys and
npon the bills. The produce is placed in lighters at the " port " or embarcadero,
about one mile within the lagoon, and carried by the current to the anchorage.

Tides. — The corrected establishment at the port is lib. 17m. The mean rise and
fall of tides is 8*6 feet ; of spring tides, 4*7 feet; and of ueup tides, 2*7 feet.

rertmoM. — At about 16 miles from Bodega head, and 82 miles N.W. i N. from
point Reyes is Fort Koss, off which vessels occasionally anchor, but it is by no means
a desirable place to ride in as the anchorage is rocky, contracted, and consequently
unsafe. The largo while buildings of the Russians on the rising ground, and about
100 feet above the sea, are the only marks for making it, and the shore is so steep and
skirted by rocks and recfH as to render approach dangerous. No trade is now carried
on here. Its geographical position is lat. 88° 80', long. 128° 18'.

The shore between Budcga head and Fort Ross curves slightly to the eastward of
the line joining the two places. Sand-dunes commence 1^ miles from the southern
point of the head, and extend 2^ miles to the mcuth of a small stream called Salmon
oroek ; thebo dunes are bordered by a '^oad Rand-bcach. At Oi miles from Bodega
head the Blavianska (known as Rusjian river) empties into the sea, breaking through
the coast-hills that here reach an elevation of 2200 feet. Dnring the summer months
a dry bar forms completely across the mouth of the river, so that the trail along the
coast passes over it. It requires heavy rains to break through it, und forms again
after a few weeks of dry weather. During the summer the bed is dry above Healds-
burg, 80 miles from the mouth, and can be forded in several places in that distance.
Before breaking through the coast-hills it comes from the northward through a broad
fertile valley. The arroyos and streams opening into the Russian river near the coast
are filled with a very dense growth of heavy redwood ; and in 18U0 a tram road was
being constructed along the coast to the lagoon inside of Bodega head to carry the
lumber from the mill on the river.
From Ross mountain, 2108 feet in height, the discoloured water of the river has

224

POINT REYES TO CAPE CLASSET.

boeu frequently obflerved to work along close in-shore to the northward, bat oeTer to
the southward. The iiHhermeu experience the same eddy cnrrent.

Northward of the Klnvianska again commence the high coast-hills, covered with
timber, which gradually a.iproach the coast, and reach it abont half way io Fort
Ross. The Russian vessels used this us a distinctive mark for making the anchorage.
Where the timber commences to skirt the coast a bold spur of the mountains comes
directly upon the sea. At Fort Ross there is a small extent of open, cultivated ground,
moderately low, but backed by the high wooded country. The coast and coast-hills to
the northward are mostly covered with dense forests of immense redwood, pine, and a
thick undergrowth.

Two miles above Fort Ross is a small contracted anchorage, called Timber cove,
where a great deal of lumber is sawn, and carried by coast^ra to San Francisco.

Eight miles above Fort Ross is another contracted anchorage, under Salt point,
where coaskrs load lumber. '

From Fort Ross to point Arena the coast is almost straight, running N.W. by
W. i W., for 87 miles. It is compact and bold the whole distance, covered with
trees to the water's edge, and backed by an unbroken ridge of hills about 2000 feet
high, and wooded to their summits.

KaT«B Anetaeras*. — About 24 miles north-westward along the coast from Fort Ross
and in lat. 88° 47' 68", long. 128° 84' 1", is a confined nichoroge under high pre-
cipitous rooky islets, with a short stretch of beach on the main, affording a boat
landing. There is protection, when anchored close in, against heavy north-west
weather ; but it would be very difficult to recognize the locality unless the position of
a vessel approaching it were accurately determined.

Northward of this anchorage high bold rocks line the coast for 4 or 6 miles. They
are generally known as " Fishing rocks."

A few miles south of this anchorage is the mouth of the Walalla river, open in the
rainy season, but having a dry bar in summer. It rises south of Fort Ross, behind
the first range of coast-hills. One of the Coast Survey stations, on the north side of
river, and 8 or 4 milos from the coast, has an elevation of 2102 feet, and this may be
taken as the general height of this coast range.

VolBt jLTsaa and Ugbt. — This is the first prominent headland north of point Reyes,
firom which it bears N.W. i W., distant 07 miles. Approached either from northward
or southward it presents a long level plateau, stretching out about 2 miles west of the
highlands, and terminating in a perpendicular bluff that averages about 200 feet in
height, except the extreme north-west part, which is comparatively low, partially
covered with sand, and destitute of trees for some distance inland. When seen from
southward, with the Run shining upon the face of the bluff, it shows remarkably white
for the length of 2 miles. Deep water is found close off the point, outside the kelp,
which, stretching along to the southward, shows the set and comparative strength of
the current which runs southward along the coast at the rate of 1 to 2 miles per hour.*

* Point Arena and the ooait louthward of it are time desoribod by Vanoourer, *' Point Arena ii a
eonapiououi mark on the ooaat, the Rboraa to tlie north of it taking a N. 10° W. direotton. Ita

er to

I with
Fort
orage.
comes
ronnd,
lills to
and a

cove,

point,

.W. by
id vith
HO feet

rt Ross
gh pre-
a boat
■th-weet
lition of

They

n in the
, behind
i side of
1 may bo

t Reyes,
jrthward
tst of the
feet in
partially
leen from
biy white
the kelp,
rength of
ler hour.*

Arent is %
loiion. Iti

Faeepagm 2'<l&

MENDOCINO BAY

Half Nautic MiIf

I r I

Soundings in faXhoma

U)Nt)uH. .Uim^K liiiri^r ^ Sou.

ALBION RIVER AND MENDOCINO BAY.

tlrn

»-,«x

ifl

24 te

At about 100 yards from the north-west extremity of point Arena is a conical brick
tower, painted white, from which is exhibited Ajia-ed uhite light, at 156 feet above the
sea, visible 19 miles. At 863 feet west of the tower is a low frame building containing
a steam-whistle, which during fog gives a blast of 5 seconds duration at intervals of
25 seconds. The geographical position of the lighthouse is lat. 88° 57' 10", long.
123"' 44' 42".

At about 2 miles southward of point Arena a small contracted valley opens upon the
shore, and off it is an anchorage for small vessels, moderately well protected from the
north-west swell, but open to the south-west. Several schooners have gone ashore
here. A large bed of kelp lies off the anchorage.

At about \\ miles N. by W. from point Ai-ena are several rocks showing just above
water, and upon which the least swell breaks. These were noticed by Vancouver in
October 1708. A high sharp pinnacle rock lies off the shore to the southward of
point Arena with some rocky islets inside, and breakers well out beyond the pinnacle
rock, yet northward of it ; these rocks are visible from off point Arena and appear to
be less than a mile from shore.

At about 10 miles northward of point Arena is a small stream named Nevarro, upon
vhich is a lumber mill. Articles floating from this river are occasioually found on the
coast northward of it.

Albion BlT«r. — From point Arena the first point to the north-westward is 24 miles
distant, on the bearing of N.W. by N. § N. After passing point Arena the coast
trends eastward of North, and for 6 miles presents a low shore line with sand beach,
changing suddenly to a straight high bluff shore with a few trees, and backed within
half a mile by hills 2000 fcut high, covered to their summits with ,'ood. At 16^ miles
from point Arena is the mouth of the Albion river, a very small stream, with the barest
apology for a harbour at its mouth. A suw-mill upon this stream induces coasters to
obtain freights here, but a great many of those trading have been lost. In 1858 the
Coast Surveying steamer Active passed in, but broke her anclior on the rocky bottom.

Kcndooino Bay. — At 20^ miles from point Arena, and 4 miles northward of Albion
river, is an inlet named Mendocino bay, which is available for a few vessels in summer,
but dangerous in winter. The northern and southern points are about three-quarters
of a mile apart, and the eastern shore retreats nearly half a mile. At the southern
head are several small rocks, and one large islet surrounded by rocks, off which are
heavy breakers. Midway between the beads is a small reef upon which the sea breaks
boavily with very little swell ; deep ^Yater is found close around this reef. Off the

northern side is uornposcd of binok ruR)»orl roolcs, on wliifili tlio sea breaks witli great violence ; to
the south of it the const trends S. B5' E. Its Dontheru side is ooniposed of low sandy or clayey
cliffs, remarkably white, though intorRporriod with streaks of a dull 'green colour. Tlio country
above it rises witli a gentle ascent, and is chequered with copses of forest trees and clear ground,
which gives it the appearance of being in a high state of cultivation. Tiie land, farther south, is
high, steep to the sea, and presents a rude and barren aspcot. As vfo npproncl"'.l the ihore ad-
vancing to the southward, the country became nearly destitute ef wood and verdure, at least that
part of it in the vicinity of the sea shore, which was nearly straight and compact. The more interior
bllU, riling behind thoss foriniug the ooast, were tolerably well wooded."

I I

tS6

POINT REYES TO CAPE CLASSET.

northern head are nnmerons rocks and islets, ontside which are breakers. Into the
north-east part of the bay enters the Big river or Bio Grande, between 200 and 800
yards wide, having a bar at the month with but a few feet of water, and npon which
the sea always breaks. The eastern shore of the bay is bold and rocky; in the soath*
eastern part is a sand-beach, with a reef extending from its centre.

The bay forms so slight an indentation in the coast-line that it is difflenit to find
wlthont acquaintance with its minute peculiarities, as there are no prominent marks
by which to determine it. The north head, npon which is situated the town of Men*
docino City, is a table blu£f about 60 feet high, and destitute of trees to the northward
and some distance bshore. The south bluff is likewise destitute of trees, but more
irregular in outline than the other. Vessels bound for this place in samraer work a
little to windward ; then run boldly in towards the North Entrance point, after rounding
which they anchor in 6 or 6 fathoms, hard bottom, about a cable c<«stn'ard of the point.
It is a bad berth in summer, and in winter a vessel must anchor far enough out to be
able to slip her cable and go to sea npon the first appearance of a south-easter.
Several vessels have been driven ashore here. In passing the North Entrance point
give it a berth of at least a cable, as reefs extend off it in a southerly direction.

An extensive saw-mill is, or was, situated on the north side of Big river, about
three-quarters of a mile up.

The geographical position of the North Entrance point, Mendocino bay, is lat.
89° 18', long. 123° 48' 82".

From the point jnst north of Men 'ocino bny — the first one made from point Arena —
the shore runs nearly straight for 28 miles in a N. by W. i W. direction, being low
and bounded by rocks for 12 miles, when the hills reach the water and present an
almost vertical front 2000 feet in height.

At about 16 miles northward of Mendocino bay is the entrance to Ten-Mile river,
in about lat. 89° 88'. This, like most of the rivers on this part of the coast, closes
np for a period near the end of the dry season, the sand then forming a bar at the
entrance.

From the deepest part of the bight (a short distance northward of Ten-Mile river)
the general trend of the coast to cape Mendocino is N.W. J W., and dlHtancd 46 miles ;
and for the whole of this distance it is particularly bold and forbidding, the range of
hills running parallel to the shore and rising directly from it. It hns been fonnd
impossible to travel along this stretch of seaboard ; and the t -ail turns well into the
interior valleys.

Btaaitar Cor*. — Just to the northward of lat. 40° a bluff, 60 to HOO feet high,
destitute of wood, juts out about half a mile from the coast line, and affords on its
south side an anchorage from north-west winds. This cove may, perhaps, be regarded
as a harbour of refuge for small coasters which have experienced heavy weather off
cape Mendocino, and are short of wood and water, both of which may be obtained
here from one or two gulches opening upon the sea. From point Arena Shelter cove
bears N.W. by N. i N., distant 65 miles.

The whole sea-face of the bluff, just mentioned, is bounded by thousands of rocka
above and below water, and vessels coming from northward for shelter mast give it a

CAPfc MENDOCINO AND BLUNT RBEP.

Wide berth, ronnding it within a third of a mile. The anchorage is in 5 fathoms, hard
bDttom, at about a third of a mile from shore ; in this position fresh water comes down
a ravine bearing about North, and an Indian village existed in 1853 at the bottom of
the wooded ravine, a little farther to the eastward. There is always a swell here, and
boat landing may not be very easy.

The south-east part of the bluff (place of observation at about 60 feet above the sea)
is in lat. 40° 1' 14", long, 124° 8' 8 ".

Sanken rocks extend nearly a mile off the coast, from Shelter cove to cape Men-
docino, hence vessels should not approach it too closely.

Point oerda^ — From Shelter cove the coast trends 1*7 miles in a N.W. by W. ^ W.
direction to point Gorda, which, as its name implies, is a bold rounding point. At
half a mile from it there is a rocky islet, and rocks also lio close inshore, north of
tbe Tjoint. From point Arena point GorJa bears N.W. ^ N., distant 81 miles.

OAFS MBiffDOClNO. — From point Gorda to cape Mendocino the distance is
12i^ miles in a N.N.VV. § W. direction, hence the cape is 93 miles N.W. i N.
from point Arena. Here the range of coast hills from southward appears to meet a
range coming from eastward, the junction resulting in a mountainous headland of about
8000 feet in height. The cape is the western limit of the north-west trend of this
section of the coast, and its geographical position is Lit. 40° 25', long. 124° 22'.

At about 8 miles off the cape is a group of sunken rocks, just under water, known
as Blunt reef, upon which the sea generally breaks. Between Blunt reef and the cape
are numerous sunken rocks and the passage is in consequence considered exceedingly
dangerous to navigation.=i<

* Tbe positionB of the dangers off cape Mendocino have recently (1873) been accurately determined,
■nd the depth of water upon most of them r.scertaincd. They brciik only at low water, with a very
iMTge swell on.

The bearings and distances of these danpef^ from the Lighthouse arc as followa :—

1. The " Great Break," a rock, having 25 feet wa'. 5r upon it, bears S. GS" W. 'i miles distant ; from
the south rook of Blunt reef it bears S. 5'' E., di»lant threr-qnnrtcrs of a mile, tt seldom breaks,
and has 15 to 20 fathoms around it. 2. A rook, havini,' 11 fi-et water upon it, B. 72° W., 2f miles
distant ; from the south rock of Bhint reef it bt'ars S. 30" E., dit>tant half a mile. 3. Heavy ground*
breitks over an area of a quarter of a mile, in U and 10 fatlionia, S. 77'^ W., 2 miles distant. 4. A
rock having a sharp well-defined breiiker, S. 52' W., l( inlles distant; it has 15 fathoms wnter,
alongside it. 6. A rock, having 7 feet upon it, S. "Jo" W., one mile distant ; it has 12 fathoms
outside it. 0. A ledge, several hundred yards in extent, having 12 feet upon it, S. 7" W., distant
li miles; it lias 12 fatiioms outside it. 7. A roeli, liaviii' IJJ feet of wiitcr upon it, S. 75° W.,
distant H miles; it has 13 fathoms rtiound. 8. A rod;, N. 82' W., distoiit one mile; it gives a
sharp and well defined breaker ; another rock lies ahout a quarter of a mile north-eost of this. The
first has 11 fathoms alongside it. 9. A rock, Imvin;; 22 feet upon it. N. CO" W., distant 1| miles ;
it has fathoms around it. To the southward of this luok ore three hca>y ground-breaks in 8i to
10 fathoms water. 10. A rock, having 12 f( et water upon it, \V. i S., distauL cables from the
Cape rock, lying off capo Fortuuas ; it Uas 13 rathnms aniund it.

In 1875 another sunken rock was discovered between the rape and Blunt reef. Tiiis rook is about
one yard in diameter and has G feet uu it at low water ; it lies S.W. } W. dislaui 7 cables from tbe
lighthouse.

Note. — The dangers lying off cape Mendocino are oharacteriBtic of several points on the coast,
and until thorough surveys are made, vesBcls should not attempt a passage inside of outlying rocLt,
aud ihould also give them a good berth in passing outside.

298

POINT REYES TO CAPE CLASSET.

Bonthward cf, and immediately off the pitch of cape Mendoeuo, are nnmeroas rooks
and rocky ialets, the latter being large and high, with a pecaliar pyramidal or sngarr
loaf appearance. None of them seem to he more than half a mile from the Bhore»
which ia almost perpendicular and dctititnte of a beach.*

The face of the cape is very steep, rocky, and worn. In its vic'nity the general
apoearanoe is undulating, and the surface covered with timber. The pyramidal isleta
off it are very readily distinguished in approaching from northward or southward.

Ufiiit. — An iron lower, in shape a polygon of 16 sides and painted white, stands
on the western slope of cape Mendocino. It exhibits a white revolving liqbt ; duration
of flash 15 seconds, of eclipse 15 seconds. It is 423 feet above the sea, and visible
about 27 miles. Its geographical position is lat. 40° 26' 21", long. 124° 24' 14" ;
from it cape Blanco bears N. by W. i W. 145 miles ; Crescent CiL^ . 7 ithonse N. by
W. i W. 79i miles ; Trinidad head N. i W. 89 miles - point Arena S.E. i S.
93 miles ; ana point Iteyes S.E. i S. 160 miles.

Blunt reef lies W. f S. distant about 8 miles from cape Mendocino lighthouse.

At about 7 miles south of cape Mendocino is a small stream named Mattole. Upon
the sides of the hills in lower Mattole, and not above a mile from the Pacific, coal oil
springs were discovered in 1861. Along the course of this stream are nnmeroas
bottom lands under cultivation.

Cap* rortnno (False Mendocino) lies northward of cape Mendocino, distant 6 or
6 miles, i\nd is another bold spur of mountainous headland, similar and almost as high
as tha^ cape. Between the two the shore recedes slightly, is depressed, and forms a
beach receiving a small stream known as Bear or McDonald creek, which descends through
a narrow valley. Bear river, like most of the rivers on this coast, becomes closed by
& bar near the end of the dry season. Off cape Fortuno are several rocky islets pre-
senting the same peculiarities as those off cape Mendocino, and a rock, with 12 feet
water over it, lies 6 cables W. i S. from the Cape rock. There is no beach at the
base of the almost perpendicular sea face.

Soundings have been reported well to westward of the cape ; should such prove
correct, the fact will be of importance to vessels, especially to steamers, bound north
or south, when near the coast and enveloped in fog, as it would enable them to judge
of their position and change their course.f

Bel Xiver. — Northward of cape Fortune, the shore changes to a straight low sandy
beach, with valleys running some distance inland. At 14 miles from cape Mendocino
is Eel or Wee-ot river, a small barred stream; it is very contracted and crooked,
receiving the waters of a great many sloughs near its mouth, and draining a most
fertile valley, which is rapidly filling up with settlers.

An extensive business in salmon fisheries is carried on near the month of Eel river.

• The isolated rock lying jait off the pitch of the cape, and known as the Sngar Loaf or Haj-
■taok, is 828 feet above the sea, and bears W. by S. | S. distnnt a third of a mile from the light.

t Lieut. Knox, U.S. Navy, ift reported to have discovered a reef at about 8 miles N.W. by W.
firom the rooks off cape Mendocino. We saspeot that this is Blunt reef, the distance being probabljr
over estimated.

HUMBOLDT BAY.

229

The first yessel known to have entered it was a schooner, in the spring of 1850, when
searching for Hamholdt bay. The bar bad at that time a depth of 9 feet npon it at
high tide. It rifles by two sonrces in about latitude 89° 80', about 80 miles from the
coast, and rans nearly parallel with it.

BVBKBOL9T BAT. — The entrance to this bay lies 21 miles from the lighthouse on
cape Mendocino. The bar is 1^ miles from the entrance between the sand points, or
2 miles from the south-west and highest point of Bed blu£f, which is the second bluff
abc'.v) Kel river. As with all the rivers on this coast, the bar undergoes irregular
changes depending much npon the prevalence, direction, and strength of the wind,
bene J ii is not prudent to attempt to enter the bay without the assistance of a pilot,
"■■ the heip uf a tag.

A bel.hnji IB moored in 16 fathoms water off the bar : from it Humboldt lighthonso
bear^ £. { N. distant 2 miles, and Bed bluff S.E. by E. i E. (18712).

About 1852 a steam-tug was stationed in the bay, and has since rendered the most
efficient t'ervice in determining the changes of the bar. When vessels are seen
approaching the bar a flag is hoisted on Bed bluff, and the tug goes out to take them
in. If it is breaking so heavily on the bar that the tug cannot get through it, and it
is yet practicable for the vessel to run in, she takes up a position and hoists Ldr flag
as a signal for the vessel to steer for her.

za^tat. — A lighthouse is established on the north spit of the bay, at threc-qnarters of
a mile north of the entrance, and about midway between the bay and sea shore?. It
shows tkjixed light at 53 feet above the sea, visible 12 miles. Its gcogi'aphical posi-
tion is iat. 40° 46' 4", long. 124° 13' 6".* During foggy weather a whistle gives
alternate blasts of 4 and 8 seconds duration, at intervals of 24 seconds.

Tidea. — The corrected establishment at the port is 12h. 11m. The mean rise and
fall of tides is 4*4 feet ; of spring tides, 5*5 feet ; and of neap tides, 8*5 feet.

Humboldt bay, also known as Qual-a-svaloo, is situated immediately behind the low
eaud spits and dunes, and extends miles north and 4 miles south of the entrance ;
being contracted to less than half a mile in width between the south spit and Bed bluff,
it then expands to nearly 3 miles, and runs 1^ miles to the eastward of Table bluff.
The single channel running into this part of the bay divides into two crooked ones,
which contain from 1 to 3 fathoms of water ; all the rest shows a bare mud flat at low
tides. Abreast the entrance it is nearly a mile in width, with extensive sands, bare at
low tides, lying midway between the opposite shores, and running nearly parallel with
them. To the northward its average width is half a mile for a distance of 8^ miles ;
it then expands into a large shallow sheet of water, having two or three crooked
channels through it, but the greater part is bare at low tides, showing extensive mud
flats, bordered by a grassy flat nearly a mile in width. In the channel way close to the

• A light on Bed bluff, which is ncRrly 100 feet high, would always serve as a leidinj; rauge, as
the flag-staff and ensigii placed thcro are now thus used by the ))ilnts. It would be distinfrtishabla
readily at sea, when the present one might be obscured by tlio mist hanging over the surf on the
beach. Daring the day the «hit43 buildings would be a capital mark against the groeu ^iJ's and
trees in the background.

POINT REYES TO CAPE CLASSET.

north spit, not less than 8 fathoms may be carried, increasing for 8 miles to 6i fathoms.
One mile north of the entrance, and on the eastern side, enters a small stream called
Elk river. Two miles north of the entrance, and on the east side, is the town of
Bucksport, off which a depth of 8^ fathoms is found within 150 yards of the shoro.
Vessels are got alongside the saw-mill wharf here at high tide to load, at low tides they
rest upon the muddy bottom. The military station of fort Humboldt is on a bluff
about 100 feet high, immediately behind the town; the latter is on the south side of
Bed bluff. On the same side, and 4 miles north of the entrance, is the town of
Eureka. Vessels lie at the wharves, resting on the mud at low tide. Abreast Eureka
lie several low marshy islands cut up by sloughs and ponds. Areata, formerly Union-
town, is situatotl on tlio north-east shore of the bay, and can only be reached by boats
at high tide. It is tbo starting point for the Trinity and Klamath mines. From it an
extensive wharf stretches fur out over the mud flat, which vessels can reach at high
tides.

The southern spit from the entrance to Table bluff does not average a quar^T of a
mile in width ; it is formed of low sand dunes and grassy hillocks, and bordered on the
bay side by marsh. At the southern extremity rises Table bluff, which the name well
desciibes, to a height of about 200 feet, its western point nearly reaching the sea
beach, and forming a good landmark for making the bay. Five miles east of it the
hills commence rising. Abreast the north end of the south spit rises Red bluff, pre-
senting to the entrance a perpendicular face, composed of sand and gravel ; it has a
reddish colour near its surface, is 90 feet above high wiiter, and destitute of tree or
bush. On this bluff the pilots have a flng-stuff to range with known points of trees
beyond, by which tbey cross the bar and keep the run of its changes.

The north spit averngcs half a milb in width, and its southern extremity is composed
of sand dunes and grassy liillouks disposed in a marked manner parallel with the
direction of the north-west winds. Two miles from the entrance trees cover the
hillocks and run northward one mile, when a space of a mile occtirs without them;
after that they continue along the shore.

In 1854 the town or village of Humboldt consisted of eight or U-n houses, but in
18G0 it had only two houses. At Bucksport there are several liousos and one saw-
mill. Eureka has eight saw-mills and a grist mill, and presents a thriving appearance.
Areata has one saw-mill. (1BG2).

Mad river, — This stream has its outlei at about a mile north of Hiimboldt bay. It
averages about 100 yards in width, with a ba" at its ontranoe that prevents egress ;
but the vast amount of timber in the valley must eventually find a passage through a
canal to the north-west point of Humboldt bay. A deep >. augh from the latter ia said
to approach quite close to Mad river, thus favouring the execution of such a project.

Trlnldikd H«ad and Li^ht. — From the bar of Humboldt bay the coast trends 17^
miles iu tt N. i W. directini to Trinidad head, which boars North 89 miles from cape
Mendocino. The low sand boaoii off Humboldt continues past Mad river to within
2 miles of Trinidad buy, when it cluinges to a bluli, guanlod by innumerable rooks.
For the entire distance of the low beach a depth of 10 to 15 fathoms may be found
%\, one mile from the shore,

Tcum p^t 2Sl

.:■>

lO lOl

TRINIDAD BAY.

S»l

A pyramidal brick tower, painted white, on Trinidad head, exhibits a fixed white
light flashing red at intervals of one minute. The light is 198 feet above the sea and
visible 17 miles. Its geographical position is lat. 41° 8' 4", long. 124° 8' 56".

TRINXSAD BAT. — The bay or roadstead of Trinidad (or Sho-ran), on the south-
east side of the headland, is of very limited extent, but as the vrater is deep, and all
known dangers are visible, it forms a moderately good summer anchorage. The head,
forming the western shore of the roadstead, and a prominent mark when seen from
close in, is about 880 feet high, and covered with a low, thick undergrowth of scrub
bushes ; it has very steep sides, and close to its southern base is a depth of 8 fathoms.
Off its western face, for nearly half a mile out, lie several high rocky islets ; between
these islets and Trinidad head are numerous sunken rocks. A rock, known as
the Pilot, 101 feet high, liep. half a mile south of the head, having soundings of 6 and

9 fathoms close to it. From the south face eastward to the Sfathom curve the distance
is one mile, and the depth of the bight northward of this line is about half a mile, with
half a dozen rocks lying outside the B-fathom line, but well above water. In tho
northern part of he bay there is a sand beach extending about half a mile ; thence
eastward the shoj-e is very rocky, being lined with rocky islets and shoals. The town,
formerly a place of importance, fronts the north-west part of the roadstead, and the
boat landing is on the north side of a round knoll making out about 100 yards from
the low neck running to the head. A wharf is, or was, built here, at which vessels
lie to load lumber. A considerable quantity of seaweed lies off the shore.*

When working into the anchorage beat in boldly past the outermost rock until the
rock just off the eastern side of Trinidad head is in range with the knoll (having a few
trees upon it) between tho town and the head, with the south face of the head bearing
W. Ly N., and anchor in 7 fathoms, hard bottom, within one-third of a mile of the
rock oud head, having the neck visible westward of the knoll, and a sugar-loaf rock
beyond the neck showing over it. A swell will generally be found setting in.

Trinidad bay is a dangerons anchorage during winter, and if a vessel is unluckily
caught in it, her chances of riding out a south-easter are bad. Several Spanish vessels
were wrecked hero when it was visited by them, and a number of vessels have been
lost within the last few years.

From Trinidad head tho shore runs N.W. by N. for about 5 miles; and is remark-
ably broken and rocky, terminating in a headland, known as Rocky point. At about
one mile off this point are several rocks known as the 'Turtles,' southward of which
distant about 1} miles is tho Gone rock, also a milo off shore.

From Rocky point tlio shore lakes a gcutlo sweep eastward, making its greatest
indentation at tho north end of tho once famous Gold blnlV, in lat. 41° 21', long.
124° 8', and then trending wt'stwai'l to Crescent City. Gold bluff has an extent of

10 miles, and is very bold and high.

Between Rocky point and Gihon lloff, which is tho first one to the northward, there

• Tlio town of Trinidad is nearly deserted iliiritiff winter, but ft brifik trndo is carried on in summer.
Tli8 land in this vicinity is very rich and well ndaptod for ngriculture. The red-wood trees grow in
the neighbourhood ud attain an •nonuous sixe.

POINT REYES TO CAPE CLASSET.

is a stretch of low sand beach, immediately behind which is an extensive lagoon several
miles in length, and from a quarter to one mile in width. It lies parallel with the
beach, and at some seasons is not connected with the ocean, but at others an opening
exists at the northern extremity. The Indian name of the lagoon is iB-shoe-sho-ran.

Redding rock. — At 4^ miles from Gold bluff is the islet known as Bedding rock,
which is situated in lat. 41° 21', long. 124° 10' 80". It is an isolated rocky islet
about 100 feet high, having all round it an average depth of 20 fathoms, with
apparently no outlying dangers. The islet is about balf a mile in circuit and its sum-
mit consists merely of a narrow ridge of quartz rock. It has been asserted that a reef,
commencing at tbo shore 2 miles above the rock, stretches out towards it.

Rlamatii siver. — The mouth of this river is in lat. 41° 88', long. 124° 5'. It is,
perhaps, 200 yards mde, having a long sand spit on the south side running north-west,
and parallel with the high hills that form the north shore. South of the entrance for
1^ miles are outlying rocks, and at the north side of the entrance are several others.
It is reported that the depth upon the bar is about 2^ fathoms. Upon passing it in
1853, within less than a mile, the sea was breaking across it, and no appearance of a
eafo channel was presented. Small schooners are occasionally able to enter it ; but
the mouth was completely closed in the winters of 1851 and 1860, and the bar changes
with every change of heavy weather.

At 8 or 4 miles northward of Klamath river is a small sharp indentation at the month
of a gulch, off which lie one large and several small rocks ; but from a distance of
H miles the surveyors were unable to determine whether any stream opened here.
It has, however, received t^e name of False Klamath, because it has misled small
coasters seeking for the Klamrth although there is no sand point on either side, as
exists at the latter. The coast thence continues bold for several miles, when the hills
begin to recede and the shores present many pleasant slopes, unincumbered with
forests and now under cultivation. The shore is low and r^'ffiilarly sweeps to the wet-
ward for a couple of miles, forming the roadstead of Crescuni Oity.

Between Klamath river and Crescent City bay are several outlying rocks. The
Sister rocks, above water, lie Imlf a mile off the coast, in about lat. 41° 40', 6} miles
Bouthward of Crescent City lighthouse.

A dangerous sunken rock lies one mile off the point near Wilson creek ; it is distant
4 miles S.E. by S. from the Sisters and half a mile W. by S. from Far island. The
rock is about 4 feet in diameter, has only 8 feet water over it, and 16 fathoms dose-to
all round ; the sea rarely breaks upon it, and there is no kelp to mark it.

OBBBOBifT oiTY BAT. — This, the most dangerous of the roadsteads nsually
resorted to on the coast, lias acquired much importance on account of the town (Cres-
cent City) being the depot for the supplies of miners working the gold diggings on the
Klamath, Trinity, and BalmoTi rivers. It is filled with sunken rocks and reefs, and
has a considerable number showing above water. No vessel should think of gaining
an anchorage hero without a pilot, or peifect knowledge of the hidden dangers. In
the approach to the bay there is a sunken rock known as the Chase ledge ;
it is several hundred yards in extent, has 8^ fathoms water over it and 18 to
14 fathoma all round. This danger is distaut uearly a mile B.B.E. i E. fioui Bound

.i-.ii.rf

Face pagt 2>J

Imri^l

CRESCENT CITY BAY.

283

rook, and S. by W. i W. 8 cables from Massel rock ; being If miles off shore and
directly in the course of steamers to and from southward of Crescent City it is con-
sidered highly dangerous, especially as it is not well marked by kelp. The usual
anchorage is on a line between- the lighthouse and the north side of the large islet
(Whaler island) three-quarters of a mile east of it, in 8^ fathoms, hard bottom. To
reach this position steer for Bound rock (42 feet high, S.E. f E. seven-eighths of a mile
from the lighthouse) ; pass it on either side, giving it a berth of 50 yards. Thence steer
towards Faantleroy rock, on which is, or was, an iron beacon painted red, 25 feet high ;
pass close to this rock, leaving it on the port side ; then haul up and anchor in
8^ fathoms with Flat rock in line with Battery point. It is necessary to keep Fauntleroy
rock close aboard, because a sharp-pointed rock, having only 2 feet water upon it,
lies 200 yards to the eastward of it. To enter or leave at night, as is done by the mail
and coasting steamers, requires a perfect local knowledge of the dangers and pecu-
liarities of the land-marks. Coasting steamers, in fine weather, usually .anchor close
inshore to discharge freight, which is received in lighters.

A wharf has been built out from Battery point, and landing is now easily effected in
good weather ; in south-easters the breakers wash over it.

The following report (1859) shows clearly the dangerous character of the roadstead,
and the knowledge required to enter it — "During the progress of the re-survey of
Crescent City harbour, several new dangerous rocks were discovered ; but as they are
not in the channels followed by steamers, and do not interfere with the anchorage in
use, it does not seem necessary to notice them further. The rocks at that place are
of a peculiar character, standing isolated like bayonetp, with their points just below
the surface, and ready to pierce any unlucky craft that may encounter them. After
completing the survey, aud a fair-way had been selected for a sailing line, a very sharp
rock was found almost directly in the passage, with its point only 8 feet from the
surface, and deep water all round it. This is mentioned to show that, although the
greatest care was taken in the survey, the character of the points of rocks is such that
it cannot be surprising if new ones be found for several seasons to come."

In summer there is always some swell here, but in winter it rolls in fearfully, and
vessels must choose a position to be ready to run to sea at the approach of a south-
easter.

Communication is maintained with San Francisco and other ports by mail and
coasting steamers, which goncrally carry as many passengers and as much freight for
this place as they carry to the Columbia river.

The town lies N.W. from the anchorage, immediately on the low shore ; old drift-
logs, in some instances, forming the foundation for wooden houses. In August 1853,
there were about 185 houses of all descriptions. In 1860 the population was 558,
aud the number of houses 170. The lands adjacent are being cultivated ; a grist-mill
has been built which turus out 76 barrels of flour per day, and a good trail leads to
the "diggins"on the Klamath and lUiuois rivers. The S.W. point of the bay is
elevated '^^.out 25 feet aud this height continues to the westward.

Usht. — The lighthouse at Crescent City bay sLauds on the rocky islef about 800
yards from the point, which is ooDneoted to it at low tides by a brokeu mass of rooks,

POINT REYES TO CAPE CLASSET.

over which a single foot-bridge is constructed. It shows a fixed light varied by t^flatk
every 1^ minutes at 80 feet above the sea, visible 14 miles; its geographical position
is lat. 41° 44' 84", long. 124° 12' 23", and from it cape Mendocino bears S. by E.,
79i miles.

Tides. — The (approximate) corrected establishment of the port at Crescent City is
llh. 44m. The mean rise of tides, 4-7 feet.*

Point saint o«ors«. — From Crescent City light the coast trends W. by N. 2^ miles
to point St. George, which rises to the height of 150 feet, with table-land some distance
back. It is bounded by bun ' 's of rocks, some of which rise perpendicularly 200
feet from the water. Three ( mr of the largest present a remarkably white appear-
ance, which serves to distinguish this point. The extensive reef in its vicinity may
have led to confusion among the old discoverers, by their confounding it with cape Orford.

Orescent city Boeka. — The rocks and reef extending W.N.W. from point St. George
for a distance of 7 miles are known as the Crescent City or Dragon rocks. There is
a passage inside the reef, which is invariably used by the mail and coasting steamers,
when entering or leaving Crescent City bay. There are ten or twelve outlying rocks,
and many sunken ones, with the passage running between them and those close to
shore. This passage is about a milu in width, has 10 fathoms in it, and the general
course through is nearly N.W. and S.E., but not straight. Among the multitude of
rocks on the land side of the passage are three very large and prominent ones about
200 feet high. It has been already stated that several of the largest rocky islets have
a well-marked white appearr.nce, occasioned in part by the deposits of sea birds.

Peilean^Bay. — From point St. George the coast runs straight for 12 miles N. i W. ;
thence W.N.W. for 9 miles, and forms an indentation, named Pelican bay. For
10 miles from point St. George the shore is low f3r some distance back, and fronted by
a sand beach to the mouth of a small stream known as Smith river, the northern bank
of which consists of a low perpendicular bluff. The approximate geographical position
of the mouth of Smith river is lat. 41° 55', long. 124° 12'.t

Ualf-way between Crescent City and the mouth of Smith river there is a small sheet
of water called lake Earl. North of this small stream the coast acquires an elevation
of about 100 or 200 feet for a short distance inland, and is bounded by high mountains.

From point St. George, the coast northward is composed of high steep precipices

* In the interior, along the coast just describee), there is a range of very high mountains rnnning
in a direction parallel with tlic shore, the summits of which can be seen in clear weather above the
hills which form this iron-bound crast. One of these moiintnins, nnnicd mount Shaste, is alwayi
covered with snow, and appears as though composed of larpe blocks of rock ; its conical shape
indicates its volcanic character, although no crater ia visible. The position of this mountain is about
lat. 41° 20', Iciig. 121" 46'. The party under Captain Wilkes, U.S.N., had a fine opportunity of
observing this mountain, when travelling overland in 1841. " It presented a magnificent sight,
rising as it does to a lofty height, its steep siilca eniergiiij; from the mists which envelope its base,
and seem to throw it off to an immense distance ; its cleft summit gave proof of its former active
state as a volcano. The snow lies in patches on the sides and part of the peak of this mountain ;
bat there is a great difference in the position of its snow-lino from that of mount Wood, or Bt.
Helen's. Its height is said to be 14,390 feet.

^ Abreast the north side of the entrance of Smith rivev and distant about 2 miles from the ooait
U a Buukeo rook, with only 12 feet water over it ; it is named Hassler rook»

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LONDON . Jamei ImriQr te Sou

CHET-KO COVE AND MACE REEF.

285

And deep ohasma, falling abruptly into the sea. The inlaad monntnins are very lofty,
and appear to be tolerably well covered with trees, apparently pines, although there
are some spreading trees of considerable magnitude. Some of the mountains are
barren. Along the coast are a number of rocky islets.

Boundary. — About 4 miles northward from the head of Pelican bay, the boundary
line of California and Oregon, in lat. 42° , strikes the coast near a remarkable high
pyramidal mound, rising abruptly from the plateau, which is destitute of timber.

ch«t-ko Cove.— Northward of Pelican bay, and in lat. 42° 2' 29", long. 124° 17' 87",
empties the Chet-ko river, a stream which is 50 to 60 yaids wide at its mouth, with
banks about 100 feet high, and bounded half a mile in shore by very high hills. It
appears deep and sluggish, and in August 1853, was completely closed at the mouth by a
gravel beach. The anchorage in the covo cff the mouth of the river is in 6 to 9
fathoms ; it is opor and exposed from West to South, with several reefs and islets in
and around it. The shores of the bay, or cove, are skirted by numerous rocks and
shoals, some of which extend nearly half a mile out.

The Indian name of this stream is Ghit-ko.

naek B««f. — About 12 miles north-westward from Chetko cove is an anchorage, in
6 fathoms water, inside a group of rocky islets, the southernmost and mosi; conspicuous
of which is known as Mack Arch. This rock is 226 feet high ; it has an arched
appearance in consequence of having a large opening through it, and is distant about
three-quarters of a mile off the shore, southward of Mack point. Its geographical
position is lat. 42° 13' 37", long. 124° 24' 46".

Vessels can f*eet in for the anchorage, with Mack Arch on any bearing from
N.W. by N. to Hi. J N. When distant about 2 cables from the Arch, and carrying
not less than 15 fathoms water, the course changes to pass to the eastward of the Arch,
not nearer to it than 60 yards, and then leads along the line of the reef towards
its inner or northern end, where the reef appears to join the shore. With Mack Arch
bearing S. by E. i E., and Mack point N.N.E. ^ E., there is good anchorage H to
2 cables off the reef, in 6^ fathoms water, sandy bottom. Inside of this is an inner
anchorage, separated from the outer by a thick bolt of kelp, stretching from the beach
to the reef, but through which there is a clear chaunel.

With the highest point of Mack Arch bearing S. i E., the course through the
channel leading to the inner anchorage is N. i W., to 4 fathoms water; care is
necessary to avoid a sunken rock, with only 2 feet on it at low water, which lies at the
edge of the kelp on the eastern side. From the northern or inner end of the channel,
the course leads to the westward, and good anchorage is had just inside the kelp, in
4 to 5 fathoms watei', sandy bottom — Mack point bearing E. | N., and Mack Arch
S. by E. i E. ' .

There are passages between the rocks, leading into the inner and outer anchorages,
apparently free from danger ; but it is recommended that they should not be used
until they are closely surveyed.

Wood and water can be obtained here, but no other supplies.

The coast between the Cbit-ko and Mack point is high, bold, compact, and bordered

ii*a

(

286

POINT REYES TO OAPE CLASSET.

by Tast nnmbers of rocks, mih Tory deep water close in shore. From Mack point thfe
shore mns nearly N.W. by N. ^ N. for 40 miles to cape Orford, making a long gentle
curve of 4 miles to the eastward, and being in general high, abmpt, and rocky.

Besn«a Bivar. — Within the long stretch just referred to is found the entrance of
Bogaes river, in lat. 42° 25', long. 124° 22', (both approximate), having a long low
sandy point on the south side, and a high steep hill, with two large rocks off its base,
at the north side. It comes from the interior between high mountains, and it is next
to impossible to travel along its course. The stream is very rapid, and, at a short
distance within the bar, is reported to have a depth of 4 or 6 fathoms. Just within
the entrance and on the north side were large Indian villages in 1668. When passing
it in moderate north-west weather the sea was observed to be breaking heavily across
the bar, and this is reported to be generally the case. It has not been surveyed, and
the depth of water on the bar is variously reported to be from 10 to 18 feet ; the
former is doubtless nearer the truth. Lieutenant McArthur, of the U.S. Coast Survey,
reports 10 feet on the bar, and that the channel is too narrow ''>r sailing yessels to
turn in. In the spring of 1850 the New York pilot-boat W. G. Hagataff entered the
river, and we believe was attacked by the Indians, deserted, plundered, and burnt.
The schooner San Roberta entered the river in July of the same year, but got out
safely.

Near the entrance to Rogues river commences the detached deposits of auriferous
sand and gravel, which are found northward along the coast to the Coquille river.*

xogn«s Bivar Beef. — At a shoi't distance northward from Rogues river is the
Rogues River reef, the rocky islets composing which are not so large as the Dragon
rocks, and run more nearly parallel with the coast line. The southern group of rocks
lies W. ^ N., about 4 miles from the north bead of the entrance to Rogues river, and
stretches northward 8 miles, where a gap occurs between them and another cluster
lying 1^ miles from the shore. 0£f this inner group lie several dangerous sunken
rocks, which must be sharply watched from aloft when the sea is not heavy AT^ough to
break upon them. As seen irom southward, the inside rock of the outer group shows
a perpendicular face eastward, and sloping back to the west. The channel through
this reef is perhaps a mile wide, but more dangerous than any other on the coast. No
hydrographic survey has been made of it, and it is never used by the coasting steamers.
In 1858 the Coast Surveying steamer passed through it.

Abreast of the northern part of this reef is a 5 mile stretch of low sand beach,
backed by high, rugged, wooded hills, when the shore changes to an abrupt and preci-
pitous face to port Orford. Many rocks closely border the shore, and 6 miles south of
port Orford a high rocky islet lies nearly a mile off the base of the hill, about 1000 feet
high.

rOBT OBFOBB. — This is the besk summer roadstead on the coast between point
Reyes and the strait of Juan de Fnca. From the extremity of the western point oast-

* The name of the river was snggeBted hy the dishonest propensities of the uaiiTen in its vicinity.
On maps it is varioasly.named Toutounia, or Too-too-tat-na, or Klamet. The Rogoea river Indians
have long borne the character of being a varUke and tronbleiome race.

s^a—^^^

MACK REEF

Faet pmg* 139

«o

IiOMDON, June* Imri^ t Son.

.ft-

PORT ORFORD AND ELK RIVER.

287

ward to the main shore the distance is 2 miles, and from this line the hend of tho
shore northward has a depth of one mile, forming port Orford. The soundings within
this space r^ii^tj from 16 fathoms close to Tichenor rock, forming the western point of
the hay, to 8 fathoms within a quarter of a mile of the beach on the nor*h-east side ;
¥nth 6 fathoms at the base of the rocky points on the north-west side towards Tichenor
rock. One mile off the shores of the bay the average depth is about 14 fathoms,
regularly decreasing in-shore.

The point forming the western part of the bay presents a very rngged, precipitous
oatline, and attains an elevation of 850 feet. Its surface is covered with excellent soil
and with a sparse growth of fir. From this point the shore becomes depressed to
about 60 feet at the northern or middle part of the shore of the bay, where the town,
or village, is situated. The hills behind are covered with a thick growth of fir and
oedar.

The anchorage is usually made with the eastern end of the town bearing North,
being just open east of a high rock on the beach, in 6 fathoms water, hard bottom,
having a sharp high point bearing N.W. by \V. a quarter of a mile distant, the beach
in front of the town distant a quarter of a mile, and three rocks just in the 8-fathom
line E. by N., distant half a mile. Steamers anchor a little eastward of this position,
and closer to the town, in 4 fathoms. Coasters from the south in summer beat up
close iu-shore, stretching inside of the outlying islets to avoid the heavy swell outside.
Coming from northward they keep just outside of a high rock a third of a mile off the
westeru head, and round Tichenor rock within half a mile. In winter vessels should
anchor far enough out to be ready to put to sea when a south-easter comes up.

The usual landing is north of the auchorage, between the rock named Battle rock
and the point of rock close on its west side. A road is cut from here up to the town,
which consists of but a few houses. Sometimes a landing is made on the beach a
quarter of a mile westward of Battle rock, in tho bight, where a sloping grassy bluff
oomes to the water ; but this lauding is over a rocky bottom.

At the head of the bay, a mile eastward of its westeru point, is a group of rocks
which extends off shore about half a mile ; another cluster of rocks lies off Coal point,
the rocky point forming the south-eastern limit of the bay. Several streamlets fall
into the bay.

Several attempts have been made to open a road from this place to the mines,
about 60 to 70 miles eastward, but hitherto without success. Upon the opening of
such a road it would become a large depot of supply for the interior. In the neigh-
bourhood of port Orford are found immense quantities of the largest and finest white
oedar on the coast, and for some years a saw-mill has been in operation, affording a
small supply for the San Francisco market.

The high mountain about 12 miles oast of port Orford is known as the Pilot knob.
The approximate geographical position of tho western point of port Orford is
lat. 42° 44' 20", long 124° 80' 40. "

Tides. — The corrected establishment at the port is llh. 26m. The mean rise and
fall of tides is S-1 feet ; of Bpr'og tides, 6'8 foot ; and of neap tides, 8*7 feet.

Bik nivar.— From the westora extremity of port Orford, cape Orford bears

I'm
"■1

288

POINT REYES TO POiNT CLASSET.

N.W. i N., distant 6 J miles, the shore line between them carving eastward aboat A
mile. About one mile N.W. by W. from Tichenor rock is another rock named
Klooqueh, lying io the westward of the port. The shore immediately north of port
Orford is composed of a very broad loose sand beacn, backed by a long uniform sand
ridge 100 feet high, covered with grass, and a few firs ; while behind this the ground
falls and forms lagoons and mavBhes. This ridgo extends nearly to the mouth of a
stream named Elk river, 4^ miles from Tichenor rock. It is a narrow stream,
fordable at its mouth at low tides, \vhich comes for miles through broad marshes
covered with fir and white cedar, and an almost in-penetrable undergrowth. The
south side at the mouth is low, sandy, and fiat ; the north side, a slope rising from
the marsh in-shore and terminating on the beach in a perpendicular bluff, averaging
100 feet high, covered with timber to its very edge for a couple of miles, when the
timber retreats some distance inland. At its base a sand beach exists which may be
traversed at low r.ater.i'

OAPB OBFOBS and U«ht. — When making cape Orford (or Blanco) from northward or
southward it first has the appearance of an island, because the neck connecting it with
the main is comparatively low, flat, and destitute of trees, the cape itself being heavily
covered with trees to the edge of the cliflP. It is, perhaps, over 200 feet high, but the
trees upon it make it appear at least 100 feet more. The sides are very steep, and
worn away by the action of the sea, showing a dull whitish appearance usually, but
bright when the sun is shining upon them. At the base are mauy black rocks and
ledges stretching out to form the inner part of Orford reef. In the bend, south-east
of the cape, rises an isolated rock of considerable elevation, about 100 yards from the
beach. The approximate geographical position of the cape is lat. 42° 50',
long. 124° B8' ; it is consequently the most western part of the main land until we
reach latitude 47° 50'.

On the highest part of the cape is a circular brick tower (white), from which is
exhibited & fixed white light, at 256 feet above the sea, visible 28 miles. The light ia
shown over an arc of 220° (from S.E. I S. westward to North).

From this headland capo Mendocino bears S. by Ji. I E., distant 145 miles ; cape
Disappointment light, at the north sido of tlie entnuicc to the Columbia, N. by W. \ W.,
distant 207 miles; and Tatoosh island light oil' cnito Chisset N.N.W., 882 miles.
From the line joining capes Orford and Disuppoiutmeut the coast does not, in any place,
leave it mere than 12 miles.

Orford B>i«f. — At about 4 miles from the coast, between port and capo Orford, lies
a group of rocky islets and sunken rocks, known as Orford rtef. There are seven
large high rocks within an area of one sqiuu . milo, with small ones that are just
awash, and others upon which the sea only breaks in very heavy woatiier.

The south-eastern rock named Fin has a porpoiulicuhir face to the south-west, with a
sloping surface to the north-east ; near it are several low blacl rocks. Fin rock lies

• At tlie mouth of the Elk rlvor, 5 bnttlo neorly burled In llie (i»iid, wnii picked np on tlie 18tli of
May 18(10, with a nieiiiuraiuluni, Binliiig tliat it Imd 1)0^ thrown from the Rtemufiliip Brother
Jomlhanin Int. 42° U', Ioih;. 124° 6U', on tl o 2.'lr<1 of Mnirli IHCO, tlio vtind nt tbe iinio itrong
from the louthward. It hod travelled nearly Nortli about 60 uilci.

5559aS

Tcuot pagt 233

(Soundinf^ in Fathoms )

L.t.'^'50'TN.

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Blanco Reef

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17 ^. u

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CAPE ORFORD REEF

ICautie Miles

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LONDON. .Innifa Inimy & Son

COQUILLE mVER.

2S9

W. } N., distant 4j miles from the western point of port Orford, and the general
direction of the six others is N.N.W. from this rock. West from port Orford, and
distant 4^ miles, is a small black rock, and near it a smaller one, upon which the sea
breaks only occasionally. W. by N. ^ N., distant 4 J miles from port Orford, lies"tlie
largest of the seven islets, riang up with high and perpendicular sides. On the same
coarse, and 1^ miles farther out is a small rock, and half-way between them a rock
awash. This is the northern limit of the group.

Stretching S.S.W. for 1^ miles from cape Orford are numerous rocky islets and
sunken rocks, with large fields of kelp ; but ceasing at that distance, a passage is left
1^ miles wide between them and the northern islets of the other c:,roup. There is a
passage with 10 to 14 fathoms water between Orford reef and the dangers (Blanco reef)
ofif the point, which is in constant use by mail and coasting steamers, but great care
]'- necessary to avoid the sunken rocks on either side.

One mile north of cape Orfurd empties the Sixes, a small stream having a great
number of rocks oflf its mouth. The village upon the Sixes is named Te-cheh-quut.

The COAST. — From cape Mendocino the hills upon the seaboard range from 2000 to
8000 feet high, running parallel with the coast at a distance of 3 to 5 miles, receding
somewhat at the Eel river valley and point St. George, and at other points coming
abruptly to the ocean. The whole face of the country is covered vith dense forests,
and offers almost insurmountable obstacles to the opening of roads intended to strike
the trail leading along the valleys of the Sacramento and Wallamut.

Northward of cape Orford the appearance and nature of the coast assumes a marked
change. Long reaches of low white sand-beach occur, with sand-dunes, broken by
bold rocky headlands, and backed by high irregular ridges of mountains. On the sea-
face and southern sides of many of these prominent points no timber grows, but they
present a bright green appearance, being covered with fern, grass, and bushos. The
general altitude of the mountains appears the same as to the southward.

Ooqniu* sivtr. — From cape Orford to the mouth of the Coquille, in lat. 48° 7',
the coast runs North for 17 miles, with a slight curve of 1^ miles eastward, and a
short distance north of cape Orford consists of a low sand beach, immediately behind
which are long shallow lagoons receiving the water from the mountains, but having no
visible outlet to the sea. Along this shore the soundings range from 7 to 15 fathoms
at a distance of a mile.

The south point of the entrance to Coquille river is a high bluff headland, whilst the
north point is a long low narrow spit of sand, overlapping, as it wore, the southern
head, so that the channel runs parallel with and close under it (1851). A short
distance off it lie several rocks, but not of sufQcicut size to lesson the western swell
which breaks continually across the bar.

The widest part of the mouth is less than 200 yards, after which the river spreads
out into a largo sheet of shallow water, about 2 miles long by three-quarters of a mile
broad, and bounded by low ground. Into the north-east part of this lagoon enters the
river, which has been followed a distance of about 80 miles in a north-easterly direction,
and having a depth throughout of not less than 15 feet, and an average width of
40 yards. It drains a very fertile region, densely covered with many varieties of wood.

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POINT REYES TO CAPE CLASSET.

Numerons Indian encampments were foand along its banks from the mouth, and qnite
extensive fish weirs were discovered and destroyed. Aboat 15 miles from its month
there is a portage of 1 ^ miles to Koos river.

In 1859 the officers of tho Coast Survey found only 8 feet of water on the bar, and
it is reported inaccessible for vessels of ordinary draught. The north point is a long
stretch of dreary sand-duues, and Las an isolated bold rock at its southern extremity.
The channel makes out straight from the southern head, and north of the rocks (1859.)
The approximate geographical position of its entrance is lat. 43° 7', long. 124° 24'.

Tides. — The (approximate) corrected establishment is lib. 80m., and the mean rise
and fall of tides 5 koi.*

OAPB ASAOO and Ugbt. — Between the Coquille river and this headland a low sand-
beach continues for 10 miles to the southern part of cape Arago (or Gregory) which
rises up very precipitously ; the hill (attaining perhaps 2000 feet elevation 2 miles
back) runs in a straight line northward for 3 or 4 miles, and bounded by many rocks,
slopes northward to a sharp perpendicular point, about GO feet high, and peculiarly cut
and worn by the action of the sea ; thence it takes a sharp turn to the E.N.E. for
2 miles, to the entrance to Koos bay. Tho cape, as seen from southward, shows a
couple of rocks a short distance from its western point. Along the low shore sound-
ings in 10 fathoms are found at a mile off. It has been asserted that vessels anchoring
close under the north face of the cape may ride out heavy south-east gales. If so, it
is very important, no other place between Drake and Nee-ah bays, except, perhaps,
under Destruction island, afibrding that protection. If a south-easter should haul to
the S.W. and then N.W. as they usually do, the chances of getting out would be bad.

Upon an islet at the north-western extremity of cape Arago is a lighthouse, which
shows a fixed light, varied every 2 minutes by a flash, at 75 feet above the sea, visible
15 miles. Tho duration of flash is 8 seconds, and that of eclipse also 8 seconds. The
geographical position of the lighthouse is lat. 48° 20' 88", long. 124° 22' 11".

Cape Arago was seen by Captain Cook, and described by him as follows — " This
point is rendered remarkable by the land of it rising immediately from the sea to a
tolerable height, and that on each side of it is very low." Vancouver says — " This
cape, though not so projecting a point as cape Orford, is nevertheless very conspicuous,
especially when viewed from northward, being formed by a round hill on high perpen-
dicular cliflfs some of which are '.vliito a cousiilorablo hniglit from tlie level of the sea ;
above these cliffs it is pretty well wooded, and is connected to the mainland by land
considerably lower. About a league northward of the pitch of the cape, the rocky
cliffs composing it termiunto, and a compact white sandy beach commences, which
extends along the coast 8 Itaguus, without forming any visible projecting point or
headland."

* Mr. DavidBon U.S. Const Survey, observes "When off the entrance to tbo Coquille river in
1864 we saw about a dozoii liouftes which had been built by the minora engaged in washing the
auriferous sand and gravel at the back of the beach. In npprnnching this coast we encountered a
Very heavy swell, with the water changing tu a dark brown colour, and after passing through it tacked
off shore, hove tu, and aouuded near its outer limit but found uo bottom with 84 fathom* of line."

Faoe page 240

LONDON .Juu«i Inr v^ & Son .

KOOS BAY.

24t

XOOa DAir>— At nearly 2 miles E.N.E. from the northern extremity of cape Arago
is the wide and well-marked entrance to Eoos bay. The south point, named Kooa
head (off which, distant about a cable, is an isolated rock, named Guano rock), is high
and bold, being the base of the hills forming the cape ; it consists of a precipitous
rocky bluff, extending from the inside of the entrance as far as cape Arago. The
north point of the bay is low and sandy, with shifting sand-dunes that reach 100 feet
in height. In 18G1 a narrow channel across this point formed a tolerably large
island, which was washed away before the close of the season. Such changes are
constantly taking place, and involve changes in the bar and channel. The points lie
nearly north and south of each other, and about three-quarters of a mile apart.

An automatic siynal-hiioy , painted black and white in vertical stripes, is moored in
15 fathoms water, outside the bar at the entrance to Koos bay. (1880).

In 1854 a depth of only 9 to 9.^ feet could be found on the bar ; in 1861 its maxi-
mum depth was 13 feet, and during that year the bar was observed to have moved north-
ward. In 18G5 the channel had completely changed, and ran directly from the north
point of the head N. by W. \ W. 1:^ miles, with a very narrow mouth between thQ
breakers, having 4 fathoms water there, but only 7 feet in the shoalest part of the
channel about 6 cables from the head. The entrance to the channel had thus moved,
about 6 cables to the N.N.E. Vessels enter and leave on the flood tide because the
bar is smoother ; with the ebb there is a heavy break, unless the sea be remarkably
smooth. The currents run very strong, as might be supposed from the extent of the
bay and the size of the channel.

The sea has been observed to break completely across the entrance in moderate
north-west weather, and in 18G1 the party cxaniiuing it could get but one day's work
on the bar during several months in consequence of the surf.

The trade of Koos bay consists of lumber, lignite, and coal. Of the former, the
laurel, myrtle, &c., are extensively used on the Western Coast in the manufacture of
furniture. There are at present (ISGl) two saw-mills in operation, capable of turning
out about 15,000 feet per day. A tug-boat is employed at the entrance for towing
vessels over the bar.

Tides. — The corrected establishment at the port is llh. 26m. The mean rise and
fall of tides is 5*1 feet, of spring tides G'S feet, and of neap tides 8"7 feet.

The bay is very irregular in outline, and its general shape is somewhat like the
letter U, with the convexity to the north. One saiall branch stretches southward
behind Koos head ; it is called the south slough, and has but 2 or 3 feet of water in
it. North of the entrance the bay proper begins, and has a good depth of water.
Abreast the north point the width is 3 cables, and the depth from 3 to 7 fathoms;
thence northward it increases in width to nearly a mile, and runs very straight on a
N. by E. ^ E. course. The channel runs on the eastern side of this part, the western
half being filled with sand flats and shallows. A sunken rock, called "Fearless", is
on the eastern side of the channel, abreast tho upper part of the rocky shore. The
vrhole length of the bay is believed to be about 25 miles, tho head of it being a little
farther south than the entrance. Koos river empties into the head of the bay, and
will give passage to boats for 20 miles from its mouth, whore a small slough that

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POINT REYES TO CAPE CLASSET.

empties into the Coqnille river is so near as to leave n portage of only 1^ mileS
between the two waters, and about 15 miles from the mouth of the Coqaille.

Excepting the peninsula, which forms the western shore of the bay north of the
entrance, the entire country is an immense forest of various kinds of pine. No land
for ealtivation is found without clearing, and even on Eoos river the bottom lands,
which afford excellent soil, have to be cleared of the thick growth of laurel, maple,
and myrtle. The coal mines are beyond the great bend, near the head of the'bay,
and on the western side.

The peninsula which separates the bay from the ocean is composed entirely of sand,
Bomb of the hills on it attaining an elevation of 100 feet. The sand has frequent!/
been observed to shift considerably.

waquAB axvxK. — North of Eoos bay to the Umpqnah river is another straight,
low sand-beach, with sand-dunes, backed by a high ridge of hills densely timbered.
The shore runs nrariy North, presenting a very white appearance when the snn shines
upon it, and having 10 to 15 fathoms water about one mile off the beach. The
southern point of the entrance to the river is a marked spur of the mountains from the
south-east, and is bordered by sand-dunes. The north side of the entrance is a long
range of white shifting sand-hills, running with the coast for 2 miles, and suddenly
changing to high rocky hills covered with wood. The river is the largest stream
entering the Pacific between the Sacramento and Columbia rivers. It is 51 miles
N. i W. from cape Orford, and 21 miles north of cape Arago. The lower reach of
the river is long and narrow, running nearly North for G miles ; on the south side it is
bordered by a rocky wooded shore ; on the north, for 2 miles, by loose sand-hills, changing
after the first mile to sand sparsely covered with coarse grass, bushes, and fir, and in
4 miles to steep high rocky banks covered with large trees. An immense flat,
mostly dry at low water, stretches southward from the north point to within 800 yards
of the south side of the entrance, through which narrow space runs the channel, having
(1853) a shifting bar with only 13 feet upon it, and less than 100 yards wide.

In January, 1858, the bar was marked by two nun-buoys, painted white and black
in vertical stripes. The inner buoy was placed just within the bar, and in SJ fathoms
at mean low water, and could be passed on either baud, but only close to it. The
outer buoy was moored just outside the bar, in 10 fathoms at the same stage of the
tide, and could also be passed on either hand.*

In light weather the bar can be readily determined by the breakers on each side,
but with a heavy swell the sea is terrific. In October, 1852, the Coast Survey steamer
Active lay off the bar two days trying to get iu, but found it impracticable. Several
steamers have thumped heavily on tho bar, one nearly carrying away her stern-post,
and in 1858 the mail steamship Columbia in coming out had her decks swept fore and
aft : in January, 1861, when going in, this steamer suffered still more terribly.
Several vessels have been lost at its entrance, and within a very recent period no
pilots belonged to the river, because the trade was too small to pay.

Daring the early part of November, 1858, the bar at the entrance to the Umpquafa

* Wi! are ignorant if tliia bsr is still buoyed. It ia subject to suoh great ami frequent ohaugea
that a BtrangiT must not attempt to enter the rircr without having the asBistance of aome one well
M^oainted with it.

UMPQUAH RIVER.

24d

changed greatly, and the depth of water upon it was so mnch decreased that the steam-
ship Columbia, which thumped over it, could not leave the river for several weeks.
Upon soanding at the entrance it was found that the channel across the bar had
moved about half a mile northward of its former position.

Abreast the meeting of the sand-beach and bluff on the south side lies a rock,
Tisible at low tide, upon the B-fathom line ; its pusiiion has not been accurately
determined. From the blufif point vessels steer across the river to strike the east side
of the north point about a third of a milo from its extremity, then haul across E.N.E.
to the other shore, close along which the cLauncl runs. This course takes them clear
of a flat and rocks in mid-river, and bearing E.N.E. frum the south end of the north
point, and North five-eighths of a mile from the bluff point on the south side. The
inlet, known as Winchester bay, on the west side of the entrance is shallow, being
filled with an extensive mud-flat. Three miles inside the entrance the river continues
half a mile wide, then expands to one mile, and is filled with numerous sand and mud
flats.

The Umpqnah is said to drain an extremely fertile region, abounding in prairie land
Well adapted to agriculture and grazing. A pine tree has been discovered in the Ump-
quah valley measuring 216 feet to its lowest branches, and being 57 feet in circum-
ference. The Indian name for the river below the rapids is Kah-la-wat-set, and to the
upper part they apply the name Umpt'quah.

From the Umpquah the coast runs in a remarkably straight line N. by W. i W., to
(he south point of the entrance to Columbia river, in no case varying more than
8 miles eastward of the line joining these two places.

Heaeta Batiks — N.W. by N., distant 6G miles from cape Orford, is the southern end
of a bank extending parallel with the coast for 30 miles, and about the same distance
from it. The least depth yet discovered upon it is -13 fathoms, and the nature of the
bottom is very variable, there being blue mud, coarse blue sand, coral, pebbles, gravel,
mud and shells. Coasting vessels have often reported passing over localities having a
heavy swell upon them, and one frequently so reported near the Umpquah led to the
examination which discovered this bank.

B«c«ta Eload. — The seaward face of this headland is about 1^ or 2 miles in extent,
and the northern extremity is in about lat. 44° 9'. It is quite noticeable when coming
from the southward as being the northern limit of a long extent of low sand-dunes,
backed by low wooded hills, stretching from near the Umpquah river. Northward of
it the shore is moderately high, but broken by sandy patches of sloping bluff. The
summit of the head is about 800 feet above the sea, and covered with wood, but the
seaward face is green to the edge of the cliff. Two small cascades are seen near the
Boathern part, and a small sandy cove near the northern. To the westward of thia
cape lies the Heceta bank, above described.

Cap* r«rp«tna.-^After leaving the Umpquah 2 or 3 miles, a bold rocky coast, with
high steep hills covered with timber, runs straight for about 8 miles, changing to low
sandy beach with sand-dunes, backed by a high ridge of hills. This continues foi*
15 miles, when the hills stretch out to the shore and crowd upon it for 18 miles, to
end abruptly in steep bluffs forming cape Perpetua. The face of the cape is nearly

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POINT REYES TO CAPE CLASSET.

6 miles long, very slightly projecting from the shore-line ; it is very high, and has a
regnlar althongh steep descent to the shore, bringing the trees to its edge. The
approximate geographical position of the cape is lat. 44° 19', long. 124° 6'.

From the Umpqnah river to cape Ferpetna, at a distance of a mile from the shore,
are sonndings of 8 to 14 fathoms. Abont 8 miles northward of Umpqnah river
is the entrance to Tahkenitch creek, 4 miles beyond which is the month of another
creek which is known as Tsilteoas river,- this latter is in abont lat. 48° 58'.

AiBoya KlvMr. — At 8^ miles northward of cape Ferpetna is the entrance to Alseys
river, with a broad sandy point forming the north head. This river expands nearly to
the size of the Yaqaina, but the depth npon the bar is unknown. For 4 miles north'
irard of this river to the Seal rocks, near Beaver creek, the shore is marked by sand-
itanes ; thence to the mouth of the Yaquina river the shore is low and thickly wo:;aed.

Northward of cape Ferpetna the coast range of hills is eat by namerons valleys,
through which flow many small streams to the ocean.

TAQVXNA BivsR. — As Been from south -west «'ard the entrance to this river
exhibits a bold sandy bluff on the north side, with a clump of firs on the top, near the
aoutbern extremity. Stretching abont 4 cables S. by W. from this bluff is a broken
line of low black rocks. The southern poiut of the entrance is lower than the
northern ; it is sandy, an 1 thickly timbered to within a short distance of the beach.
Heary and constant breakers exist on each side of the entrance, narrowing the passage
over the bar considerably.

The comitry briiind the shore exhibits hillocks covered with pine, about 4 or 5 miles
from the sea, and thickly timbered to their summits.

The north head is me extremity of a peninsula about one mile long and half a mile
wide , its sea-shore stretches northward for about 8} miles to Yaquina point (or head).
TtU shore is a long line of bluff composed of hard sand and soft rock, 100 to 209
Seet in height.

The bar cf the Yaquina river lies at the south point of the reef, making out about
4 cables southward from the northern head, and is about half a mile wide off the
southern point. It is quite narrow, and never free from breakers except at extreme
high water, when it appears about half a mile wide. The depth npou it at low water
is not more than 9^ feet. A vessel drawing 8^ feet has been taken over at low water,
just touching her keel. The water on the bar is reported smoothest in June, July,
and August. The current is very strong in the channel between the heads, being
estimated at 5 or 6 knots when strongest ; a whale-bout cannot pull against it. The
summer winds are favonrable for both entering and leaving. It is said that S.E. gales
do not change the bar, and this appears probable on account of the rocky nature of
the north side.

A beacon has been built upon the north head, as a guide in making the entrance,
and two beacons are placed on the southern point, W. by S. i S. and E. by N. i N.
of each other, as a range for crossing the bar. They are about 400 yards apart, and
form an excellent channel mark. These particulars are uncertain.

The approximate geographical position of the eatrauoe of Yaquina river is lat*
44° 36', long. 124° 4'.

YAQUINA RIVER.

840

Abont three-quarters of a mile from the shore, and a quarter of a mile outside the
bar, a very dangerous reef of rocl: : extends in a north and south direction, having
many dangerous uarrow chanDcIs across it. It is about li miles long, being composed
of a number of rocks, with 6 to 18 feet upou them at low water. Inside of the reef
is a channel running nearly nui th and south, a quarter of a mile wide, and bounded oa
the eastern or inshore side by the breakers of Yaquina bay. This reef, which forma
8uch a dangerous obstruction to the approaches of the river, serves, however, as a
natural breakwater against the westerly seas, which would otherwise render the bur
impassable except at high water, and in the smoothest weather. As it is, in heavy
weather it is not possible to cross the bar.

There is a dangerous sunken rock, with only 12 feet water over it, lying south-west-
ward of the entrance, and a little over a mile off the shore. From this rock the
western range beacon bears N.E. by N. i N., and is distant 2 miles. The beacon on
the north head bears N. by E. | E. distant about 2 miles. These bearings will enable
vessels lo avoid the shoal (1867).*

The town of Newport is situated on the east side of the north head ; and the river
has a general course N.E. by E, ^ E. for 12 miles to Elk City, where is the com-
mencement of the military road to the Willamette valley ; by the windings of the river,
the distance is about 23 miles. A depth of 9 feet can be carried to Elk City, which
is the head of tide water. lu the first great bend where the river expands there are
two small islets. The banks of the river are covered with a thick growth of spruce,
pine, and alder. A small steamboat plies occasionally between Elk City and Newport.

Trade was drawn hither by the oyster beds in the river. These have now been
exhausted, and a small traffic is maintained in lumber. There is one saw-mill on the
river, cutting eight to ten thousand feet per day.

Yaqnina Point and z.igbt. — About 8 miles north of the entrance of Yaquina . r ia
the headland known as Yaquina point, whose grassy heads, when 2 or 8 a ics off
the river, show against the bolder headland of cape Foulweather. It is a higi bold
point, extending into the sea abont half a mile from the beach to the southward. 11
has on it two t jnical hills, 800 to 400 feet high, and similar in shape. On its extreme
point stands a lighthouse, painted white, from which is exhibited & fixed white light, at
101 feet above the sea, visible 19 miles. Its geographical position is lat. 44° 80' 80",
long. 124° 5'.

Yaquina poict (or head) serves as a good mark for vessels making the mouth of
Yaquina river. It has sometimes been mistaken for capo Foulweather, a headland
lying several miles farther to the northward.

Siroetiona. — The following directions for entering Yaquina river have been, compiled
from the results of the U.S. Coast Survey in 1868 : —

Coming Jrom the southward, vessels should first make cape Perpetua, 22J milea
southward of Yaquina river, and, if possible, keep the shore in view up to the entrance.

* We are uncertain whether the beacons above referred to are still in existence.

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POINT REYES TO CAPE CLASSET.

Cape VeTf.tna may be recognised by its steep bluffs, thicky wooded, which jut oni
boldly into the water.

After sighting cape Perpetua steer North a little westerly for the Yaquina. When
Tip with the entrance, bring the beacon on the north heud to bear N.N.E., and steer
for it 1^ miles, until the outer or western rango beacon on the southern aide bears
N.E., when steer N. ^ W. for about half a mile, until the two beacons come in range.
Cross the bar on this range, steering E. by N. | N., and eoBtinne this course until
the beacon on the north bead bears N. by W. ^ W., when steer N. by E. } E., and
round the point at a distance of about 100 yards, until abreast the town of Newport,
when anchor in 4 to 5 fathoms water.

Of these courses, the first (N.N.E.) carries you about 2 cables to the northward of
tho detached rock mentioned above, and you will have not less than'6 fathoms water.
The second (N. ^ W.) passes one-eighth of a mile to the eastward of the outer reef,
and has nothing less than -1 fathr ms water. In crossing the bar the shoalest sounding
will be fl feet, and the passage will be closer to ibe south breakers than to the north.

In one place the range passes within 60 yards of the edge of the breakers. But, as
the depth is uniform here, you may, should you get too close to the south shoals, edge
a little over to the northward without fear of finding less water.

Commrj from northuard vessels shonld sight Ynquiua point (the headland 3J miles
northward of the river), run in to within 1^^ miles of it, and steer S.E. by S. J S.,
until in 15 fathoms, and have the beacon on the north head bearing E. J S. Now
steer for the beacon and continue your course for about IJ miles until the extreme
western point of Yiiquin? head bears N.N.W., when haul round S.S.E., which course
continue for fivo-eighths of a mile, until tho two beacons on the south head come in
range; thence proceed as bsfore directed.

Of these courses, the fu'st (E. ^ S. for the north beacon) leads across the north -
western end of tho outer reef, through a break in its line, and between two rocks
with 11 and 12 feet water on theui. Tho course gives both rocks a berth of at least
150 yards, and the depth is not less than 4 futhoros at low water. The second courue
(S.S.E.) leads up tho cluuiuel between the outer reef aud the bar, in not less thao
4 fathoms, and leads to tho bur, which may be crossed in the same water and on the
name range as in entering from soutliward. ( U.S.C.S. Const I' tint, 18v 9/

OAFS rouLVTBATSiBH.— Neaily 4 miles northward of Yaquina head commences
the long bold face of tho headlaiiJ known as cape Foulweathor. From Yaquina head
for 4 miles tho shore is bordered wu)» low yellow broken cliffs, covered with standing
burnt timber. A low flat Wuck rock lies ttb(*ut linlf a uile off shore, and nearly
8 miles north of Yiiquina hend, while n larpe one, the same diistanco off shore, licit
just south of the southern liiuit ol' ciipo Foulweathor,

The whole face of the cnpo is about fij miles in ertonl, N.N.W. and S.S.E., and
marked by six or seven sloping grassy heads, ri'aci.ing from the sea-cliffs to the heavy
timber which crowns thenj, while timber fills t'lo gulches between them. Tho eleva-
tion of tho cape is apparently about 600 feet ; its wcHtcrnniost point is about,
7 miles northward of Yaquina head. i.>oith\vard of this part of the cape and behiud
« black point of the same height, is an opening to a small cove, with yellow <;Uf( «a4

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Band-beach within. This black point is marked by a d'^nae cluster of woods. The
northern extremity of the cape is about 9^^ miles from Yaquina head and in about lat.
44° 40', long. 124° 4'; thence northward the shore ia comparatively low, and bordered
by a sand-beach.

This cape was named by Cook on the day he made the coast, March 6th, 1778. At
uoon he was in lat. 44° 33', and the land extended from N.E. \ N. to S.E. by S.,
about 8 leagues distant. In this situation he had 78 fathoms over a muddy bottom,
and 90 fathoms a league farther off shore. He describes the land of moderate height,
diversified by hills and valleys, and principally covered with wood. At the northern
extreme the laud formed a point, which he named cape Foulweather, from the exceeding
bad weather he met with soon aftei*. The expression "northern extreme" has led
some geographers to place the cape as high as lat. 45^°, but he judged the Fqul-
weather he named to be in 44° 55'. Being here driven off %e coas^' by continued bad
weather, he had no opportunity to verify his position, and did not sight the land again
until in lat. 47° 5', thus passing by the entrance to Columbia river. Vancouver places
it in lat. 44° 49'. Both of these determinations evidently refer to the n«rthcrn part
of the high laud.

N«kas »w«r. — Soon after passing cape Foulweather the shore becomes abrupt and
moderately high, with an iucreasod depth of water immediately off it. Four miles
south of the Nekas, which is in lat. 44° 60', it chauges to low sand-dunes stretching
into a narrow point, funuiug the south poiut of tho stream, while the north point is a
low bluff. Tho entrance ia very narrow and shoal, aud inside the river is reported to
spread out into u bay of about a mile in extout, aud to receive the waters of a stream
draining a valley coming from tho east.ard.

From the Nekas river to cape Lookout tho distance is 24 miles, the courao N. by
W. i W., with a shore-line broken b) several small streams, amongst which are the
Nechesne in lat. 45° 2', immediately to the southward of Cascade head ; the Nes-
tuggah in lat. 45° C, having a large rock off its mouth; and the Nawuggah in lat.
45° 13', haviuq on the south side of its cutrauco a single rocky islet, known as the
Haystack hereafter described.

Caaeade Head. — In about lat. 45° 8', long. 124° 2', a rugged headland, having a
sea-fuco of about ono mile iu extent, shows prominently when a vessel is close inshore.
The south face, overlooking a cove, is without trees aud appears very green; the
summit of the ridge, which attains a height of about GOO or 700 feet, is covered with
spruce trees. About two-thirds of tho distance from the southern extremity of the
head a well-defined valley makes out upon the sea, and a cascade from a height of
40 or 60 fcot falls upon tho rojky shore. A short distance northward of this is a
fjmaller caocado, but it is soon shut in. These pooularities have caused the point to
be named Cascndo head.

Winsu approttehcd from northward, with the soutlicrn extremity of tlie head bearing
B. by E., two rocks appear just touching tho south point. Tho outtr one is com-
paratively low and broad, with two arches through L; tlio inner arch is the larger,
aud tbi-ough it is seen the beach beyond. As seeu from southward this head iu

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POINT REYES TO CAPE CLASSET.

particularly noticeable by baving two or three large spmce trees standing alone mi
above the surface of the second higher seaward slope, at an elevation of perhaps
500 feet.

A small inlet lies a few hundred yards southward of the head, from which extend
ont three low black rocks. The width of this cove is about half a mile, and the depth
the same; at its head is the opening of a small valley, through which rans a stream
with a shanty near its bank. Sonth of this, again, for 4 or 6 miles, the immediate
fihore is low and sandy with signs of a lagoon or marsh inside ; perhaps the waters of
the Nelras.

Northward of Cascade head the shcre '•etrc iin ".oniflwhat, and a steep-sided timbered
valley opens upon the sandy bei»r>h. F;o ? ^^■': fsf i^h of the valley northward there
are undulating hillocks pleasantly green -m simmit to beach, which continue to the
opening of a stream which is about 9 miles north of the south part of Cascade head.
The outermost point of the sand -beach on the northern side of the entrance has a high
rock off it.

Haystack Bock. — About 12 miles northward from Cascade head is a high rocky
islet of regular shape, named the Haystack. It appears to be nearly half a mile off
the point, and possibly has a passage around it ; its height is estimated to be 807 feet,
and it is approximately in lat. 45" 18', off the Nawnggah river. Haifa mile north-
eastward of it is Haystack point, a low cavern-worn clifl" of sandstone, with its snmmit
covered with grass, and its inshore slope with timber. About half or three-qnarters
of a mile from this cliff a small stream is seen cutting thr>-u^,a the sand-beach at low
water.

Cape Xrfiokont. — This capc is approximately ah '» AC '^5', long. 124°, and is
distant about 18 miles northwaiJ from Cascade h»;u i ^ ij'i ots somewhat sharply

into the sea for liiilf a mile, and as seen from the sout.. '' ■: tfto is tolerably flat and
regular; its highest part is considered to attain «••: cievatu. ■ ' JOOO feet. The face
directly toward the ocean is perpend iculiir and high ; toward tbo south it is destitute of
trees. About 8 milos southward of it the Il'iystack rock, off the Nawnggah, may be
observed, standing well out from tho low sand-beach behind it. No rocks lie off this
c.^pe, but one appears very cIdso inshore, about a mile northward of it.

T'le souiidiu "s from ovpc Foulwoatlior to cnpo Lookout show from 18 to 81 fathoms
of water at tho distance of a mile from tho shor^; ncrcasiug from 18 fathoms north
of lat. 45'.

Capo i»aa^«B. — Two or throe miles after leaving . wko/'.t the land falls to a low
sand-boach, boli'ud which is a long lagoon, called il.o Nata-hals, coming from the
Boulh-oastward. sti-et'liiii^i; >.;!'. huard, and having an opening under tho south head of
tho well marlicd poi naaicd iw^'-- Moarcs. This capo is tho termination of a spur or
ridge running frou' tho stxiiL-aasiward, prt'setitiiig an abrupt front to tho ocean for
about 2 miles, and being ^iart of the western boundary of Tillamook bay.

Cape Mcarna (or Lu Mca) is estimated to bo about 1200 feet high; its faee is
broken and blufV, increasing n elovalion as it retreats from tho shore ; it is covered
with spruce. Hovcral arched r^'cks lie off tho cape by which it may readily be known.
Approached from southward four l.vrgo rooks show off the cape, and two of them bav«

TILLAMOOK BAY.

249

arches throngh them. These rocks are about 150 feet high, except the outermost,
which is comparatively small. Four rocks are laid down off the south-west face of
this cape on the Coast Survey reconnaissance of 1850, and one on the north. Three
large rocks and one small one are laid down off the south-west face in the original
sheets of the reconnaissance of 1858, the most distant being one mile from shore, with
several small ones between them and the shore, a^d two or three others off the north-
west face.

In 1775 Heccta placed La Mesa (the Table) in latitude 45° 28' — a flat-topped
mountain, seen at a great distance.

In July 1788, Meares, in the Felice, after passing cape Falcon (False Tillamool'),
says — "The distant southerly headland we called cape Lookout. This cape is very
high and bluff, and terminates abruptly in the sea. At about the distance of 2 miles
from it there rose three large rocks, which are very remarkable for the great resem-
blance they bear each other. Tbe niitldle one has an archway, perforated, as it were,
in its centre, through which we plainly discovered the distant sea. They more
particularly attracted our notice as we had not observed between King George sound
and this place any rocks so conspicuously situated near the land ; their distance from
each other might be a quarter of a mile, and we gave them the name of the Three
Brothers."

In 1792 Vancouver described it as a small projecting point, yet remarkable for the
four rocks which lie off it, one of which is perforated as described by Meares. He
places it in lat. 45" 82'. fU.S.C.S. Coast niot, 1869/

TlXiZiAiiiioox BAT. — The entrance of this bay is about 4 miles northward of cape
Meares, and 23 miles southward of Tillamook head. From cape Meares the land falls
to a low narrow ridge of sand-dunes running N.W. by W. and covered with spruce for
8 miles ; then with grass and bushes for another mile to the entrance to Tillamook
bay. The hillocks of this peninsula appear to be only 40 or CO feet high. Tbe north
side of the entrance to this bay rises abruptly to wooded hills, 1200 feet high. Just
within the entrance, on tbe northern side, is a remarkable hill, known as Green hill ;
it has a bright green appearance, is destitute of trees, and is about 420 feet in height.
Green hill is a proniinout feature in recognising the entrance and in crossing the bar;
the approximate geographical position of its .summit is lat. 45° 82', long. 124°.

About 1^ miles nortii of the bar, is a double-headed rock, connected with the beach
at low water, with no rocky ground near. Tlie^e rocks are gray, about 80 feet high,
and stand out conspicuously against the bright Hand-beach. The southern rock haa
an arch through it, when seen from the southward.

The entrance to Tillamook bay u 8 cables wide, bul the channel between the 12-foot
curves is only two-thirds of a cable wide. The narrowest part, with a depth of 4 to
8 fatiioms, is close to the foot of Green hill, and the breakers always show the south
side of the channel. The two points of the entrance are N. \ W. and 8. ^ E. of
eaoh other.

The bar in April 1807 was situated S.W. by W. i W. li miles from the foot of
Green hill, and tiiroe-quarters of a mile S.W. by 8. i 8. from the nearest part of the
north head. The channel was narrow but quite straight, and a depth of 16 feet oould

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POINT REYES TO CAPE CLASSET.

be carried across the bar at low water. Oatside the bar the depth increased rapidly
to 5 fathoms in one-oighth of a mile and one mile outside the kur the depth was
19 fathoms.

In entering bring the highest pa^t of Green hill to bear N.E. by E., and ran for it
over the bar ; after crossing which, gradually haul for the lower part of the hill. When
its extremity bears N.N.W. steer for the eastern shore of the south point, running
close to it in 2 G feet water, with a hard fine sand-bar, with only 4 feet water upon it,
a cable from the shore. (1867).

Inside the entrance of Tillamook bay its general direction is B.E. by S. i 8. for
2^ miles, then E. f S. for 2^ miles. It rapidly expands as it stretches southward,
and there is a small shallow cove lying to the northward and eastward of the parallel
of Green hill. The bay is mostly occupied by flats that are bare at low water. The
principal channel through it runs from the inside of the south point of the entrance
towards the south-east part of the bay; and after reaching the middle of the bay, just
south 0^ Mematnet head, it runs parallel with the eastern shore at an average distance
of half a mile, until abreast Shell point, wLcv <t runs southward a short distance and
abruptly turns to the S.E., runv'ng close alongshore. It is said that vessels drawing
8 or 10 feet water can go up the slue about 6 miles above the head of the bay at high
water. Up to 1867 there had been three vessels built here, the largest about 40 tons
burden. One of these was eugaged, in 1867, in making occasional trips to Portland
for flour and other supplies. The exports consist of a little butter and a few hides.
The whole imports and exports do not exceed 50 tons yearly. There is a considerable
amount of timber, consisting of spruce, fir, hemlock and cedar, adjacent to the bay,
but as yet nothing has been done to develop its value.

nabaiam Bivar. — About 1^ miles north of Tillamook bar stands the double-headed
rocks described above ; thenco the coast runs 10 or 11 miles nearly straight to cape
Falcon, receiving a considerable stream called the Nehalem river.

The mouth of this rivci is in about lut. 45° 41^', and for 8 miles from its entrance
it lies parallel and close under the west side of a blulT covered with trees and running
nearly north and south. Around the north-west point of the bluff the stream comes
sharply from the eastward and is about three-quarters of a mile in width at high water,
with 18 feet depth at that stage of tide. Butwoon the river and the sen lies a long
narrow strip of sand-dunes, about 25 feet high, its extremity forming the north point
of the river's entrance. Abreast this point the river contracts in width to 200 yards,
with vbry little depth of water, while upon the bar the sea breaks almost unceasingly.

Inside and abreast the southernmost sand-dune there is as much as 80 feet water,
with a rocky ledge on the eastern side. Within the entrance the Nehalem spreads
into a lagoon 4 miles wide with a length of 8 miles, where it decreases in width ; its
general direction being N.N.E. The hills behind the Nehalem appear out by many
valleys. The tongue forming the ocean boundary to the lagoon runs N.N.W. to a
double-headed peak, about 12U0 foot high, about three-quarters of a mile south of cape
Falcon. This peak is covered with grass to the summit, with a few burnt trees in the
gorges: it is known by the Indian name of Ne-ah-kah-nie. At the base, on the south
|iide of the mountains, is a large house.

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TILLAMOOK HEAD.

251

GIarke» when about 6 miles south of Tillamook head, says that "the principal town
of the Eillamucks is situated 20 miles lower (south) at the entrance to a creek called
Nielcu, expanding into a bay, which he namef^ IQllamucks bay. Upon this bay were
several Killamnck towns. Killamuck river is at the head of the bay, 100 yards wide,
and very rapid; but having no perpendicular fall, is a great avenue for trade. There
are two small villages of Killamucks settled above its mouth, and tb? whole trading
portion of the tribe ascend it till by a short portage they carry their canoes to the
Columbia valley, and descend the Multnomah to Wappatoo island." This information
be obtained from Indians and traders. On this short expedvcion he made all his
distances from cape Hancock and point Adams too great, and reducing the foro-
mentioned 20 miles by the proper proportion, it would give us 18 miles as about the
position of the Nehalem. His name seems to agree with this, but the description
applies to what is generally known as Tillamook bay.

It was in this vicinity that Meares stood in for an anchorage, (July 1788), until he
found bottom in 10 fathoms, but hauled out again and named the place Quicksand
bay, and the adjoining headland north, cape Grenville.

Cap* raloon or raiae Tillamook. — The northern part of this headland lies in laf .
46° 47', long. 128° 58'. Its sea-face falls precipitously to the ocean, and its elevation
is about 720 feet. 0£f the capo are several rocks, one of which, 60 feet high, lies
thre9-«}narters of a mile off the nearest land ; it is known as Falcon or Last rock.
About 2 miles north of the cape and neoily a mile off shore, is another isolated rock,
113 feet high. Seen from southward the top appears irregular and the hills inshore
fall away. Like some other headlands in this district, the southern face of the cape
is destitute of trees, but covered with a thick growth of grass, bushes, and fern. Two
miles south of it is a stretch of sanJ-buach and sand-dunes behind which is the
Nehalem river.

From cape Lookout to this headland a depth of 20 fathoms may generally be found
at A mile from shore ; but, as upon the wiiolo coast, a heavy regular swell always rolls
in from the west.

TXLiiAxaooK HBAD. — This prominent cape, in lat. 46° C8', is 12 miles N.N.W.
from cape Falcon, and 19 miles S.E. by S. i S. from cape Hancock (or Disappoint-
ment). The cor st from cnpo Falcon curves slightly to the eastward; it is bold and
rugged, skirted by many high rocky islets and reefs, and in several places bordered by
a low sand-beach at the base of the cliffs. Two miles south of the head is a creek,
80 yards wide at its mouth, named £1U; northward of which are some rocks off points
of the coast. One of these, known as Arch rock, is 140 feet high and lies a quarter
of a mile off a point iu lat. 46° 66'. From the south bar of Columbia river the
summit of Tillamook head appears flat for some distance back ; it has an estimated
height of 1200 feet. Off the face of the capo, which is very Hteep, lie several rocky
islets; one of them, named Tilla- ook rock, 116 fuot high, is high and rugged, and
stands out about a mile from the soulh-wcsl fuue. Around it the water is believed ta
be deep, a steamer haviug been seen to approach almost upon it in a thick fog; but
inside of it lie several high rocks. The rocks off the head are a resort of thousands
of seals. '•■

* it is int«n4«d to trtot a lighthouM on TilUmook head.

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POINT REYES TO CAPE CLASSET.

About midway between Tillamook rock and Tillamook bead is a rock, jnst above
water. The least water close to either of these rocks is not less than 16 fathoms. A
strong current, generally to the northward, runs between them. Vessels shonld not
approach the shore between Tillamook and False Tillamook inside of a line joining
Tillamook rock and Last or Falcon rock.

Tillamook head is a good mark for making the mouth of Columbia river, no such high
headland occurring on the coast northward of it for over 70 miles, and before being np
with it the moderately high land of cape Disappointment is seen and made as two
islands. The face of the cape is much broken, and formed principally of yellow clay,
presenting a bright appearance in the sunlight. It has been said that at 1200 feet
above the ocean occurs a stratum of white earth, used by the Indians as paint; and
that the bill-sides slip away in masses of 50 to 100 acres at a time.

The coast from point Orford to Tillamook head is well diversified by high hills and
valleys, presenting a country well watered by numerous small streams emptying into
the ocean. It is densely covered with various woods, and for a few miles inland looks
favourable from the deck of a vessel. At some distance in the interior are ranges of
mountains, the general direction of which appears to be parallel with the coast-line,
which attains its greatest elevation and compactness between cape Falcon and Tilla-
mook head, after which a sudden and marked change takes place, and a stretch of low
sandy coast commences and runs for nearly 100 miles northward, only broken by cape
Disappointment, the north point of Columbia river.

The coast at 2 mihs northward of Tillamook head is followed by and consists of a
peculiar line of low sandy ridges, running parallel to the beach towards point Adams,
(the south point of entrance to Columbia river), and appearing like huge sand waves
covertid with grass and fern. Between some of them run small creeks, whilst the
country behind is low, swampy, and covered with wood and an almost impenetrable
undergrowth. About 8 miles north of the head is a small stream known as the Neka-
nakum creek.

Foint Adams and Ugbt. — Point Adams is low and sandy, covered with bushes and
trees to the lino of sand-beach and low dunes ; and although it is repoi-ted to have
washed away over half a mile since 1841, the surveyors were able to detect only com*
paratively small changes since the survey of Broughton in 1792.

On a low ridge on the western side of point Adams is a square tower, from which is
exhibited a Jimhincf light, showing alternate red and white flashes at intervals of
10 seconds. The light is 9!) feet above the sea and visible lU miles. A fog-whistle,
situated 190 feet from the lighthouse, is sounded during fog as follows — blast of
7 seconds; interval of 14 seconds; blast of 4 seconds; then an iuterval of 85 seconds.
The geographical position of the lighthouse is lat. 40° 7', long. 128" 67' 16".

From tills lighthouse Tilliunook head bears S. by E. \ E. distant 16 miles; and
cape Disappointment light N.W. \ 'V. distant nearly 6 miles.

OAFB DisArpoiKTmBNT and i.icht. — This capo is the only headland from Tilla*
mook head to lut. 47° 20' that breaks the low line of shore. It presents a geological
formation not before mot with on the seaboard, being composed of horizontal columnar
basalt, rising to an elevation of 287 feet, disposed in a sucoession of huge round hilli,

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COLUMBIA RIVER.

253

liroken on the sea front by short strips of sand-beach, and covering an irregular area
of about 8 miles by one mile. The sea-faces of all the hills are destitate of trees, but
covered with grass, and bashes, and have an excellent thongh thin soil.

As seen from southward, when o£f Tillamook head, cape Disappointment is made as
two round-topped islands ; approached from north-westward it rises in a similar manner ;
from the westward and south-westward it appears projected upon the mountains inland,
but the slightest haziness in the atmosphere brings it out in sharp relief. The Indian
same for cape Disappointment is Eah-eese.

When the evening fogs from the northern bays do not cover the cape, a dense fog
has occasionally been observed rolling down the river about sunrise, enveloping every-
thing below the top of the cape which consequently looked like an island of less than
100 yards in extent, and surrounded by the river fog. The evening fogs are bo regular
that the surveyors state they were 85 days on the cape before obtaining a single night's
observations.

A lighthouse has been erected on Hancock point, the southern extremity of cape
Disappointment. The tower is whitewashed, and being 40 feet in height and pro-
jected against a dai'k green background, shows well in daylight. It exhibits a Jixed
white light, at 280 feet above the sea, visible about 22 miles. Its geographical position
is lat. 46° 12' 20", long. 124° 2' 20".

A powerful /o^-be/^ placed on the bluff in advance of the light-tower, is sounded
during foggy weather. The machinery is on a level with the ground, in a frame
building, painted white.

From cape Disappointment point Grenville bears N.W. by N. ^ N., distant 02 miles ;
Destruction island N.W. by N,, 84 miles; and Flattery rocks N.W. i N., 118 miles.

ooZiVaKBiA BZVBB. — The great valley of Columbia river is by far the most im-
portant and interesting part of Oregon, not only on account of the variety of soil,
productions, and climate, but also from its being the great and only line of communica-
tion between the sea coast and tho interior. The river is estimated to be 750 miles
long, and is navigable from its entrance, a distance of about 100 miles, as far as the
Cascades, by vessels drawing over 12 feet of water. Although it possesses at all times
a good depth of water, it is difficult and dangerous to enter.

The channels of the entrance to the river are subject to changes in width, depth and
direction, but the buoys (hereafter described) are located to correspond therewith. Of
late years the Bouth channel has been the wider and deeper, occasionally reaching as
much as 27 feet at low water, whilst the North channel has been decreasing in width
and depth; it now carries about 21 feet. Range beacons for loading in are erected ou
Sand island, and are shifted as required to meet any change of tho banks. No vessel
thould cross the bar without a pilot on board.

It is said a vessel drawing 22 feet can safely cross t) e bar of the Columbia.
It is not safe beyond that depth in rough weather, though vessels drawing 24 feet have
crossed, and can cross safely at high tide in calm weather. When the Willamette
river is at its lowest stage, vessels can safely load to 14^ feet. At Rauier they load to
17i feet, and at Astoria to 22 feet. The depth of the water on the bars is influenced
yery much by the winds. Thus a ship going down with the wind N.E. has touched at

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16 feet, whereas, a week afterwards, after a S.W. wind has been blowing, a tossel
passed up'^freely, drawing 16 feet 8 inches.

The entrance to the Colombia, the great river of the Pacific coast, is 5 miles wide
between the nearest parts ofcape Disappointment and point Adams, bearing S. 58^° E.,
and N. 58^° W. from each other ; but the passage is obstructed by extensive shifting
shoals that lie 2 or 8 miles outside of the line joining the points. The South channel,
whichi^is nearly always used, is one mile wide, and the least water on its bar is 24 feet
at low water. The North channel, between the North breakers and Middle sands, is
more contracted than the South channel and as already stated carries only 21 feet
water.

The mail and coasting steamers enter the Soath channel, close to the beach south of
point Adams ; but, with a heavy swell from westward, the^ roll very much after rounding
the point. In heavy weather some of them prefer entering the North channel, although
it gives a detour of some miles. Sailing vessels cannot beat into the South channel
against the summer winds blowing from north-westward, but almost invariably come
out through it. The heavily laden vessels of the Hudson Bay Company have always
used the North channel. The buoys marking the channels are described below.

During heavy weather, and especially in winter, the sea breaks with terrific fury
from north-west of cape Disappointment well to the southward of point Adams.

When off the entrance in fine clear weather, the beautiful snow peak of mount St.
Helens shows over the lowest part of the land inside, and apparently in the middle of
the river valley. It is very regular in outline, and presents a pyramidal appearance*
having a base equal to either side. It is more than 75 miles eastward from the
entrance to the river, and attains an estimated elevation of 18,500 feet. It is volcanic,
and occasionally discharges volumes of smoke. On the 2drd of November, 1842,
during an eruption, the ashes from it fell over the Dalles of the Columbia like a light
fall of snow. On the 18th of November, 1848, mounts St. Helens and Rainier were
both active.

Pilots. — It is at all times considered advisable, when up with the bar, to wait for a
pilot. The pilot station is at Astoria or fort George, situated about 12 miles inside the
bar. Vessels arriving off the bar are signalled from the lighthouse on cape Disappoint'
ment to the signal at the pilot station, when a pilot is sent out in a steamer, the vessel
taking her pilot and steomer to tow her in at the same time.

The'pilots are appointed by the Qovernment, and under its control. There are two
classes of pilots — the Sea pilots, taking charge from sea to Astoria, more especially
for the bar navigation ; and River pilots, from Astoria to Portland, and vice vend. A
tug-boat is always at hand to tow vessels in and out, so that the chances of detention
are very few. These tug-boats or steamers are private property, but tariff of rates foi'
towing is fixed by the Qovernment.

Buoys. — An Automatic signal-buoy (whistle), white and black in vertical stripes, id
moored off the entrance to ' j South channel, in 14^ fathoms water. From it cape
Disappointment lighthouse bears N. by W. i VV., 7^ miles, and point Adams light'
bouse N.E. by N., 4} miles. Distant H miles N. | E. from this signal-baoy is the

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COLUMBIA RIVER.

26g

Oater Bar bnoy of the South channel ; it is painted black and white in vertical stripes,
and moored in 12 fathoms. No. 1, black, buoy lies at the south-east extremity of the
Middle cand. No. 2, red, ou a shoal between Middle sand and Clatsop spit. No. 4,
red, at the northern extremity of Clatsop spit.

The Outer Bar buoy of the North channel is moored in 9 fathoms, S.W. by W.
8^ miles from cape Disappointment lighthouse ; it is painted black and white in vertical
stripes. Another buoy, similarly coloured, lies 2 miles E.N.E. from the Outer Bar
buoy, in i^ fathoms. No. 1, black, lies in 4^ fathoms, 7 cables South from the light-
house on cape Disappointment. Then follow, — red buoy. No. 2, ou the east side;
and black buoys, Nos. 8 and 6, on the north-west side of the channel. (1878).

The buoys are altered in position as required to meet the changes that take place
in the channels. The range beacons on Sand island are also shifted for the same
reason.

Tidal Current. — Off Sandy island, in the South channel, the strength of the ebb
current was measured in 1851, and found to be nearly 6^^ miles per hour. The
observations made by the Coast Survey in 1868, however, show a maximum velocity
of only 8'4 miles in the same position. These observations show, first, that there is
no slack-water at the change of tides from flood to ebb ; secondly, that off the entrance
to the North channel the maximum velocity of the flood is 2 miles per hour, and the
set E.S.E. ; the maximum velocity of the ebb is 2*8 miles, and the set S.W. by S. i S.,
almost in the direction of the channel. In the North channel, between the Middle
sands and the S.W. point of the North breakers, the velocity of the flood was 2*5
miles, and its set E. by &., or nearly across the channel. The velocity of the ebb
was 2'7 miles, and its set S.W. ^ W., directly down the channel. At the junction of
the North and South channels, one mile east of Sand island, the flood was E. by
B. i S., li miles per hour; and the ebb, W. ^ N. 4 miles per hour.

Off the South channel entrance, 1^ miles south-east of the south end of the Middle
sands, the ebb attains a velocity of 2 miles per hour, with a set at its maximum,
8. i W. The flood sets E.S.E. , when it attains its greatest velocity, which is
1*8 miles. Off the north-west end of Clatsop spit, flood, at its maximum, sets E. by
N. i N., at the rate of 1-4 miles; and the ebb, S.W. | W., 8 miles per hour. In
mid-ohannel, south-east of the eastern end of Sand island, the ebb attains a velocity of
8'4 miles, and sets W. by S.; while the flood at its maximum sets E. i N., with a
Telocity of 1*9 miles.

Tides. — At Astoria the corrected establishment is 12h. 42m. The mean rise and
fall of tides is 6-1 feet, of spring tides 7'4 feet, and of neap tides 4*6 feet.

The tide makes 40 minutes earlier at cape Disappointment than at Astoria.

BmnA xaUad. — This island, the first met with after passing the bar, is about
1^ miles long, and is separated at high water into two parts. These two parts lie
E.N.E. and W.S.W. of each other, and are about 480 yards apart. They consist of
loose sand raised a few feet above the river, and covered with trees, drift logs, &c.
From the western end of Sand island a sand-bar, three-quarters of a mile long and
bare at low water, extends in a W.S.W. direction; and from the end of this bare spit
the Great Middle sands make out, separating the North and South channels.

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POINT REYES TO CAl'E CLASSET.

Bay lies between cape Disappointment and Chinook point. It runs 2^ tnibf
northward of the cape, and receives the waters of the small Rtrearas which head
towards Shoalwater bay, and is connected °;rith them by a small portage. The
western and largest stream is the Wal-la-khat; the eastern, half-way between the
cape and Chinook point, is the Wap-pa-loo-chee.

OlUnook Point, on the northern side of the river, lies N. by E. 2} miles from point
Adams, and E. ^ N. 4| miles from cape Disappointment. It is a long low strip of
sand at the base of high wooded hills. One of the hills, known as Scarborough,
is readily recognised by a great part of its southern slope being destitute of trees and
covered with fern ; no other hill near this vicinity possesses this peculiar feature.

A number of fishing and Indian huts are situated upon the Chinook beach, the
people being engaged in catching and curing salu^on, with which the waters abound.
The mode of catching them is by means of nets. The fish are the largest on the
coast, often exceeding eighty pounds in we'ght. Fish weighing between fifty and sixty
pounds are caught upon the beach at the sea-base of cape Disappointment. They
commence to run about the end of May, and become remarkably plentiful by the third
week in June.

Chinook point was the special location of the once powerful tribe of Chinook Indians,
and here the celebrated one-eyed chief, Concomly, held sway. In 1869 the tribe bad
dwindled down to less than a hundred persons who were in a miserably poor and
demoralised condition.

The point was named Village point by Broughton, in 1792. In 1889 it was called
Cbenoke point by Belcher. The Indian name is N6se-to-ilse.

VoUit EUie*, on the northern side of the river, is 2f miles eastward of Chinook
point; the sand-beach between the two is in some places nearly a mile wide, running
at the base of the hills, and surrounding a large lagoon near Chinook. From point
Adams it bears N.E., distant 4^ miles.

Behind point Ellice rise two hills, the southern of which is sometimes used as a
range with point Adams for denoting the entrance to the South channel, but of course
the relative position.- vary with every change of the bar.

It was called Ellis point by Belcher in 1889, and point Ellice by the United States
exploring expedition in 1841. The Indian name is No-wehtl-kai-ilse.

Toong Bay lies between the eastern part of Clatsop beach (called Tansey point) and
Young point. Into it empty Young river, discovered, and named by Broughton;
Lewis and Clarke rivers, examined by them in 1805 ; and one or two small streams
and slues.

Smith Point, on the southern bide of the river, is a prominent point about ii miles
eastward of point Adams. Immediately behind it the land is high and densely wooded;
and around its southern face opens Young river.

Smith point was named point George by Broughton in 1792; George point by
Belcher in 1839; Yoang point by the United States exploring expedition in 1841;
Smith ppint by the Coast Survey, in 1862; but it is, wo believe, generally known as
Smith point.

vonguo Point, on the southern side of the river, bears E.N.E., 8i miles from poin^

COLUMBIA RIVER.

257

Adams. It is a high hla£f covered with trees, n'"^ connected with the main by a
moderately low narrow strip of land. As first made, off the entrance, it appears like
a low wooded island. Close to it rans the Woody Island channel. The Indian name
of Tongue point is Soo-knm-its-e-ak.

Astoria. — On the northern side of the promontory which terminates in Smith point
is situated the harbour and tovm of Astoria, now a thriving commercial place ; it is
distant about 6 miles from point Adams. A cnstom-hoase is located here, and it is
connected with Salem, the capital of the State, by a military road. Vessels bound up
the river here exchange the " bar-pilot " for a " river-pilot."

rottngnma* WA'-i is on the north side of the river, N.N.W. 8^ miles from Tongue
point, and N.E. i E. 5| miles from point Ellice. On the north-east side of Portuguese
point is Gray bay.

Portuguese point was named cape Broughton by Belcher in 1839, but was called
Gray point by the United States exploring '■expedition.

The head between point Ellice and cape Broughton was named Chatham head in
1839.

From the entrance to the mouth of the Cowlitz river the general course of the
Columbia is E. by N., and the distance in a straight line 46 miles from the bar, and
by the windings of the river about 52 miles. The Cowlitz runs N.N.W. for 24 miles ;
thence N.E. to its headwaters in the Cascades ; it is navigated by canoes about 28
miles to the Cowlitz landing. The stream is very rapid, and boats have to be poled
the greater part of the way ; at high stages of the water they are pulled up by hauling
upon the bushes growing upon its banks. At the Cowlitz landing travellers take mules
or horses through to Puget sound, a trip of 52 miles. On the west bank of the Cowlitz,
6 miles above its mouth, are a few small houses, locally known as the town of Monti-
cello. On the south bank of the Columbia, opposite the Cowlitz, is another small
settlement, called Rainier.

From the Cowlitz ' ? next course of the Columbia is S.E. by S. for 29 miles to the
mouth of Willamei,;- ■ t»r. About 16 miles above the Cowlitz the Warrior branch or
slough of the river makes in from the west side and runs around Multnomah island,
coming into the Willamette 2 miles above its mouth. The Willamette continues the
same general course of the Columbia for 16 miles to the falls, where is situated the
town of " Oregon City," destined to become a place of importance, on account of the
extensive water-power ; the river there falling perpendicularly 88 or 40 feet. Six
miles lower down on the Willamette is the rapidly improving town of Portland, situated
at the head of ship navigation, with a population of nearly 6000. The valley of the
Willamette is well settled, contains several thriving towns, and is remarkably productive.

The Willamette takes its rise on the western slope of the Cascade range, in about
lat. 48}°, between the snow peaks of mount Jefferson and mount Laughlin ; then runs
westward to within 50 miles of the coast, and nearly in the latitude of cape Perpetua,
turning sharply to the northward, and very slowly leaving the coast.

From the mouth of the Willamette the general course of the Columbia to fort Walla-
Walla is N.E. by E. i E., 170 miles.

Fivo miles above the Willamette, on the north side, is the military post of fort

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POINT REYE3 TO CAPE CLaSSET.

Vancouver, which, with the town of Vancouver, covers part of the grounrls formerly
occcpied by the Hudson Bay Company as a mercantile station, but then designated as
fort Vancouver.

About yO miles farther up the river we reach the foot of the Cascades, which are a
series of rapids 4 miles long, where the river bursts through the eastern part of the
Cascade range of mountains, the basaltic walls of which rise precipitously over 8000
feet on either side, presenting a maguiiicent sight. Below the rapids the current
rushes by with great velocity and depth, but small steamboats ply regularly from Port-
land and Vancouver to the foot of the rapids ; thence passengers are carried by stages
to the head, where one or two fine steamboats convey them 50 miles to the Dalles.
The Hudson Bay Company can'ied their large trading boats up tbe.rnpids by a system
called cordelling. Steamboats have gone up 1 or 2 miles, and, in one instance, a brig,
with every sail set and a moderate gale astern, was carried safely to the foot of tho
railroad, which runs from the head to '• 'a 1^ miles of the lower end. At each
extremity of the rapidd are small military

The snow peaks of the volcanic mount tit. Helens and mount Hood lie exactly in
lino with the Cascades, the former N.W. J N., 85 miles distant ; the latter S.E. \ S.,
28 miles distant.

Mount Hood is an extinct volcano covered with cellular lava, and, according to Dana,
is between 15,000 and 10,000 feet high. Acconling to other authorities, it attains an
elevation of 18,816 feet.

At the Dalles the river is contracted between narrow perpendicular walls, and during
freshets rises 100 feet above its ordinary level.

East of the Cascades the forests cease, and above the Dalles stands the only tree in
a stretch of 60 miles beyond Walla-Walla, where the river makes a great bend to the'
northward, in the direction of its source at the base of tho Rocky mountains.

On the lower parts of tho Columbia and Willamette many saw-mills have been
erected since the gold discovery in California, and a huge trade is carried on in
lumber. Between San Francisco and Portland a very large and increasing general
trade exists.

Commander Wilkes, U.S. Navy, makes the following generul ohser^'ations on Col-
umbia river — " The principal dangers in tho entrance are the cross tides, their velocity,
and the influence of an under-current, together with the heavy swell. These become
greater from the distance of the leading marks for the channel, and their inJistinctness
when the w( ather will permit entrance. It is necessary to use them, in consequence'
of the compass bearings being of littlo or no use.*

It is safest to enter the river on the ebb-tide, with the usual north-west wind, which

» After nlluding to the loss of his consort, the Peacock, on the bar, he eiiys — " The croBS-tidrs
change every half hour, and are at times so rapid, that it is imrossiWe to steer a ship l)y her com-
pass, or maintain her position ; and no sniling dircetious can possibly cnihrnce the varions ('ffrct*
prodnoed upon them by a vessel. A singular fact in illustration of this remark is that the safest
time to cross the bar is when both the tide and wind arc adverse ; and this is tlie only port, within
my knowledge, where this is the case. During the sommcr, haze and fog occur almost erory d»y
in the afteruoou."

SHO.-'T WATER BAY.

250

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Bets in al)out 10 or llh. a.m., duriiif^ the summer months. The entrance should never
be attempted with a flood-tide and X.W. wind, unless the Clatsop channel be followed,
and the sea is smooth.

When passing cape Disappoiutineut, care must be taken not to be becalmed bj' it ; if
this should happen, the culy resource is to down anchor at once, and wait a favourable
tide. The current will be found very strong ; it sometimes runs from 5 to knots an
hour — a perfect mill-race — and no boat can make way against it when at its strength.

When entering the river, the following precautious should bo attended to : —
-1. The entrance should never be attempted when the passage between the north
and south spits is not well dufiued by breakers ; it is equally dangerous, whether it bo
concealed by the sea's breaking all the way across, or so smooth as not to show any
broak.

2. The wind generally fails, or falls light, in the passage between the north and
south spits, if it blows but a moderate breeze ; and leaves a vessel at the mercy of a
strong tide and heavy swell.

8. The best time to enter and depart, is after ebb, and before quarter flood ; the
tide then runs direct through the channels, and is confined to them. With the pre-
vailing westerly winds, for tbosie intending to take the north channel, the best time to
enter is after half-ebb, though the wind may be scant ; yet the ebb-tide, acting on the
lee bow, will enable the vessel to keep to windward, and avoid the spits on the middle
sands."

BHOALWATZSB BAT. — The bold cliff's of cape Disappointment*, after extending
about 3 miles northward, change suddenly to a low broad sandy beach, runn'ng
N. by W. i W., 18 miles, in nearly a straight line to the southern point of the entrance
to Shoalwater bay. At IJ miles behind this beach lies the southern arm of the bay.
Its waters reach within 1 or 2 miles of the north side of the cape, and the portage
from them to thp Wappalooche, emptying into Baker bay (Columbia river) is said to
be about a mile long, and is always used by the Indians and settlers. The peninsula
thus formed is covered with trees and a dense undergrowth of b:ishcs. Within half a
mile of its extremity it becomes very low and sandy, and has a covering of coarse grass,
but no trees. This point is known as Leadbetter point. The Indian designation is
Chik-lis-ilh. Its approximate geographical position is lat. 40° 86' 45", long.
124° 0' 45".

From Leadbetter point to capo Shoahvnter (the north point of entrance to Shoal-
water bay) the bearing and di;jtaucc are N.W. by N. .} N., 5} miles. Haifa mile of
this point is low, sandy, and doslitute of trees, but some tolerably high land covered

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* The coast from cape Disappointtnent nnrthwnrii to Juan de Fuca st.rait is rocky, much brokpti,
and iiffords no harbours, except to very eninll vessels; it must, therefore, be considered as extremely
dauRevous, and particularly on account of its outlving rocks. The soundings, however, serve as a
sure indication by which danfjer may be avoided, and safety can nlways be insured by not nppronciiing
the land into less than 70 fathoms. The bottom is believed to be regular, and to shelve aImo<<t
griidualiy, until the depth of !tO fathoms is reached; but a short distance beyond that diVtli, and at
about 15 miles from the laud, the bank suddenly falls otT, and no bottom ia obtained with a line
200 or 250 fathoms long.

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1151

with wood risas immediately behind it, being the only elevated ground between cape
Disappointment and point Grenville that approcches the nhore-line. On acconnt of
tliis formation of the point it has been said that the entrance resembles that of Colnmbia
river. The isolated position of cape Disappointmsnt and the seaward face of its bold
cliffs without trees form a peculiar feature. This, with Scarborough hill, partly bare,
lying 5 or 6 miles eastward of it, the high mountains inland, and in clear weather the
beautiful snow-peak of mount St, Helens, have no counterparts at cape Shoalwater,
and should remove all doubt in regard to general -.esemblance.

xigbt. — The lighthouse upon cape Shoalwater (Toke point) is 85 feet high, and
shows a Jixed light (fashing every two minutes), at 8t'5 feet above the sea, visible
about 14 miles. Its geographical position is lat. 40° 43' 4", long. 121° 4' ii8".

The navigatioa of Shoalwpi-er bay is too intricate to be attempted by stranf/ers Kithout
a pilot, and it is believed that the channels are subject to great and frequent changes.
The bay is seldom entered even by coasting vessels. In less heavy weather than would
cause the sea to break on the Columbia river bars, it breaks here with fury quite across
the entrance.

Four miles off the entrance a depth of 10 fathoms is found, and when well off shore
ft high double peaked mountain shows to the eastward, well inland. Meares noticed
it, and placed it in latitude 4C° 80', quite close ca the coast, designating it as Saddle
mountain, a name it still retains, although one of the same name is found S.E. of point
Adams.

In 1656 there were two channels, denominated from their position the North and
South channels, with a large shoal called the Middle sands Ij'ing between them, and
partly outsido of the line joining the two points.

The bar at the South channel had 4 fathoms water upon it, was a mile wide, and
was situated 2 miles off the beach south of Leadbetter point, with the northernmost

trees bearing N.E. by E. Coasters do not entei this channel except with a southerly
wind, and always pick out the channel from aloft. In summer they have a leading
wind out, and start on the first of the ebb.

The bar at the North channel had about 8^ fathoms upon it in 1855, and bore
B.W. by S. \ S., 8 miles from the southern extremity of capo Shoalwater (Toke point).
It WHS about a mile in extent within the 8-fathom Hue, and bore N.W. by N. f N.,
distant 5 milos, from the jo'ith bar.

There are buoys to mark the channels, but their positions are shifted to suit the
chati^ieH which arr constantly taking place in the sand-bars at the entrance of the bay.

The Middle sands lie between the two channels. The southern tail is S.W. 1 j miles
from Lcadbctter point, runs N.W. by N. 8 N. for 2i miles, then N.N.E. 2^ miles,
and E.N.E. 1^ miles, with an average width of 1^ miles. One mile outside of it
Boundiiiga are found iii 7 fathoms.

Bhuulwatcr bay, as its name implies, is so full of shoals that at low tides about one-
half uf its area is laid bare. Good but narrow channels are found throughout its extent,
but i:f> direction can bo given for running them. Without a knowledge of these chan-
nels, or without ft pilot, follow them only at low water. The currents then run with

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261

great velocity, and it is very difficult and ft^qnentl^ impossible to keep a course against
them. The arm stretching southward ioward Baker bay is 15 miles long from Lead-
better point, with an average width of not leHs than 8^ miles, whilst the upper portion
stretches to the N.E. for 9 miles to the north of the Whil-a-pah river, reckoning
from the middle of the line joining cape Shoalwater and point Leadbetter.

The principal stream emptying into the bay is the Whil-a-pah, at its north-east part.
At about 9 miles from cape Shoalwater it is less than a quarter of a mile wide, with
low swampy banks and steep bluffs on each side about 1^ miles apart.

The mouth of the Palnx, or Copalux, lies 5 miles N.E. ^ E. from Leadbetter point.
It is half a mile wide at its mouth, contracts very much in 2 miles, and is bordered by
marshes, with numerous sloughs ruuniug through them.

The Nasal enters about 11 miles south from the Palux, and abreast the middle of
Long island. It has over 20 feet water at its mouth, with bluff banks for some
distance, until it begins to expand, when it is bordered by flats.

Several streams open from the north side of the bay. One of these, the Ncco-
inanche, near the Whil-a-pah, has 6 feet in the main channel, and shows 1^ miles wide
at high tide.

There are three islands in the bay. Pine island, about 1^ miles N.W. by N. from
the mouth of the Palux, is a small sand islet of only 4 or 5 acres in extent, and
occupied by oystermen. It is near the channel and the oyster beds which stretch for
a couple of miles to the N.N.E. of it. The Indian name of this island is Nass-too.
The north end of Long island is 8 miles from Leadbetter point. This island runs
irregularly about S.E. for G miles, and has an average width of 1| miles. It is
covered with a dense forest of fir an^ undergrowth. One mile S.S.E. of Long island
is a very small islet named Rouud island, of only a few acres in extent, covered with
wood and bushes. The shores of the bay, except on the peninsula, are mostly com-
posed of low perpendicular cliffs of a sandy clay.

The peninsula is a long sandy plain, elevated but a few feet above the level of the
sea, ait i covered, like the entire surface of this country, with a dense growth of
gigii un forest trees, principally spruce, fir, and cedar, with a few specimens of maple,
asbi r.ad black alder. The spruce frequently attains a diameter of 8 feet. The Indian
name of the peninsula is Too-choots.

The shoals are covered with shell-fish, among which the oyster is the most abundant,
and the principal article of export. They are small and have a coppery taste. Cod-
fish and halibut abound ; sturgeon, said to be of good quality, are plentiiul, and salmon
of several varieties and excellent flavour exist in infinite numbers. In spring vast
shoals of small herring enter the buy. In wiati,. .•'■l ^"wl are innumerable, but these
have been made shy by the bad shooting of the Indians. Black and white swan,
geese, mallards, canvas-backs, ^c, always reward the experienced sportsman.

The yearly shipment of oysters is about 80,000 bushels, aud of piles and spars
about 80,000 foot. The average value of exports is j*{ 120,000. The number of
vessels entering yearly is about 25, nearly all of which are sohootiers, counting an
aggregate of 2600 tons. In 1855 the population on the bay w.s about 250.

bhoalwnter bay was discovered by Lieut. John Mearos, July 5th, 1788, in the Felict,

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when proceeding iu search of the Rio de San Roqne of .Heceta. He I'pproached it
until the water shoaled to 8 fathoms, v}]en the breakers ahead warned him to haul off.
"From the mast-head it was observed that this bay extended a coosidiirable way
inland, sprcadiiJg into several arms or branches to tlie northward and eastward, and
the mountainous i'lnd behind it was at a great distance from us." He saw "what
appeared a narrow tutrance at the north-west part of the bay," but it was too remote
for him to discover whether it veally was so, or only low land.

It is asserted by settlors here that boats, canoes, S(c., which have broken adrirt and
gone out of the bay, have, in every instance, been found on the beach north of tho
entrance, and generally between it and Gray harbour.

From capo Shoalwater to point Hanson, the southern side of the entrance to Gray
harbour, the distance is 13^ miles, and the hard ocean sand-beaoh furnishes an ex-
cellent rond that can be travelled at half tide by WKEfgous. Tho slightly elevated sandy
bank is level, coverod with coarse grass, and free from timber for nearly half a milo
hack, and to within 2 miles of the harbour. Buck of this and parallel with the coast
is a cranberry meadow, G miles iu length, and separated by a narrow belt of scrubby
fir. This meadow is drained by two small rivulets forcing their way through the sand
to the ocean. San Francisco is the market for the cranberries, which are gathered by
Indians and carried to Shoalwater bay and Gray harbour. Land otter and beaver have
their homes around the meadows and small streams.

GRAir IIARBOWR. — The following is the description of tho bay according to the
surveys of 18(12 and 18G7. The bar at tho entrance shifts so tVoqitontly and appears
to be subject to such very great changes that instructions for entering it soon become
useless, stnmiicrs inii.st there/ore obtain the assisldiice of a pilot.

Tho entrance to this bay is formed by point Hanson on the south, and the southern
point of ]''ild island on the north. The northern end of this island is connected with
the outer part of point Brown at low water, but at high tide the beaches are a quarter
of a milo apart. The south end of the island lies N.W. by W. \ W., 18 miles from
point Hanson; its length is Ij miles, and direction N.W. i W., with n breadth of
2UU io "100 yards. Half-way between point Hanson and the island lies tho north-east
end of a shoal or middle ground, bare at low water, and stretching S. by VV. 3 W. for
li| miles, with an average hrtiadth of 4 cahKs. The channel iu is between the north-
east end of this shoal and the south end of Eld island; it had in 1H02 u width of lesa
than () cables and a depth of ItJ fathoms. In 18(17 the channel ran thenco nearly
H,VV. 2i| miles to the bar, which had 25 feet water on it, and was situated B^ miles
W. by H. \ S, from fort Clieliulis flagstafl', half a mile south of tho extremity of point
Hanson, and H.W. i S. 2'j miles from the south point of i'ild island. At timt lime the
channel was str-iight and indicated by buoys, the positions of which wore changed to
correspond with the changes of tho bar and channel.*

• In lHOO tlip Rurvcviiif,' In in luiuidlfrotj, (Imwitiu 10 fort of wntor, livid off tlio bar Kovcnil (liiy«,
Mill heavy bri'nkcrH iilouj.' tlio wIkiIo hIkmiI allowing' no chir- to tlio luir, uiiU tlio ili'ptli of water upon
it iiiiluiiiwn. At n coniiiniulircly hiiiooIIi tiuiu tlio bar wua roiiikIuiI wiili ii bout itud tbu vcrhoI
I'lilliiwiil, erohHiii(,> (111 till) Iu«t iiimitcT of tlip ebb with '1\ fiitboiiiH. In lH(ll tlm tiitrmicn »hh re-
Utjiled tultii'iibly good, and coiii|mriiigfuvounibly witb tlie other bar barbourB north uf i^uu i<'ruiiciitoo,

ajMMMiii

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GRAY HARBOUR.

263

\P\

In 1880, while the surveying vessel was lying off the bar, a current running to the
northward at the rate of 1^ miles per hour was distinctly noticed. Immediately off the
harbour this current strikes the ebb current of the bay and deflects the mass of water
to the northward. With the flood current the mass of water sets over the south sands.
It is estimated that the off-shore current runs across the bar at an average rate of
8 miles.

The Indians use a small swash channel under point Brown, to avoid crossing the bar.

The ptninsula terminated by point Hanson is about three-quarters of a mile in
breadth and 8| miles long, and covered with fir to within half a mile of the point,
which is a low sand-spit embracing a small marsh. The general direction of the
peninsula is north-west, and inside it lies South bay, with a width of half a mile,
affording the safest, and in fact the only safe anchorage near the entrance. More than
half of this bay is occupied by mud flats. To secure the best position hero, bring the
northernmost trees on point Hanson to bear S. 71" W., distant three-quarters of a mile,
and anchor in the channel in 3^ fathoms. This position places '.iie vessel out of the
influence of the eouth channel running to the Chehalis (18G2).

The anchorage under point Brown is not only uncomfortable but unsafo I" a vessel
without li. ivy ground tackle. At this point there is no protection against the full
sweep of tlie heavy sniiiincr winds, which, blowing at times counter to tho strong
OH'""nt» in the bay, cause a very disagreeable, short sea. Another circumstance tends
to this anchoriigo unsafe : betwof n point Hanson and EIJ iwland lies the Miildlo

shoal, which, beiii;^ bare at low water, f onlinea the water to a murow regu. ,r channel ;
but when thi - rises sufliciently to cover this shoal the conflicting currents cause a
heavy overfall, espe ally on the uirge titles, strong cnou^-^h to tear a vefcsi.l from her
anchors (1800).

The peninsula terminated by point j rown, is about a milo in breadth and 4J miles
long ; its general direction is S.E. by S. The bay shore is covered with fir. The
oilier shore is tho connneuciuient of a sand waste, stretching towards the Copalis river,
lit tweeii the timber and this waste is a lagoon, and outside that the sand is covered
with coarse grass and stui'tt".! bn a. From the north end of Eld island a body of
water stretches into the snnil > parallel with and near the ocean beach for about a

mile. Close under the bay hliore of this peninsula runs a narrow crooked channel,
which in 17i)2 had a depth of 1 fathoms.

From point Hanson the mottlh of the Chehalis river bears N.E. ft F distant
12 miles ; and this course is tho general direction of tho south-cnst side ot ' j bay,
except tho indentation forming South bay. The first bluft' inside tho point is named
btearus. Around the south-west side of this blufV comes John river. Within 1^ miles
of the mouth of the Chehalis tho Neuskah'l enters, coming from the smith-east.

'Ism

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, Hi

In Juno \H(\'i, tlin Rtinio vr.sRol laid off the Imr Boverul dayfl, and lliidinf,' no pnssiliilily of croasini,', rnu
into Slicmlw.'ilt'f liiiv, iind tlit> vin'iy i'>u\,: uiiHlile to jiiocuio ii i>il(it llml could t'ain In !• into Cirivy
liiirliour, liud to work iVoui tiif foruuT bay. Tliero woro only tliric ilnys (luiinn tho mciikou wliun
work c.oulil lio oxocutcd on tho Imr, and tlio rosult hhowotl thiit no wi'll-dctloed ohnnno! tlion cxintod
aoroHH till' bar, wliicli was vory uneven, luinpy, ond in one placo had only 9 foot U|ion it, Tho
oliannel was not slrniKlit, im untiiMpatcd, bul tliu genward ond ouivod w«dl to tiiu iiorthwurd.

S64

POINT REYES TO CAPE CLASSET.

From point Brown point New bears N.E. ^ N., distant 4| miles; off the latter are
two rocks, named Ned rocks.

Brackenridge blaff commences about tbree-qnarters of a mile east of point New, and
extends 8 miles eastward to the low land bordering the Hoqoiamts river. From point
New the shore-line runs nearly straight to the Chehalis, distant 8 miles, and the point
of Stearns blnff lies S.E. ^ S., distant 4| miles.

N.N.W. of the line joining points New and Brown lies North bay, cciisisting of an
immense mud flat, bare at low water, and having an area of 22 square miles. At its
head lies Saddle hill. In the stretch of 4 miles north-west of point New are three
small streams, known as the Typso, Chinois, and Humtolapy, emptying into North
bay. They work narrow crooked channels through the mud flats, bat at low water
there is not sufficient depth to carry a whale-boat through them.

More than nine-tenths of Gray harbour is bare at low water. Inside of the entrance
the area of the surface of the water, bounded by the flats, bare at low tide, is only
4ti square miles. This will give a fair idea of the limited extent of the harbour.
Through the flats lying between this available space and the Chehalis run two con-
tracted channels. The northern, which commences at a point 2 miles E.N.E. from point
Brown, is the only available one, and would require buoying out for its entire length.
For about 6 miles it is, or was, about i cables wide, with a depth of 4 fathoms. The
south channel commences just inside point Hanson, and is very contracted ^nd shallow.
The flats are so extensive, and the mud so soft in places, that it is impossible to reach
the shore, except at high tides. This fact has retarded the development of the trade
in lumber, although the shores are heavily timbered.

The Chehalis river has been navigated by a small steam-boat for 20 miles, to the
mouth of the Latbop, which comes from the northward. This is the head of the tide-
water; but enterprise would render the river navigable much higher. Boats have
come from the bend of the Chehalis, at the mouth of the Skooknmchuck, near the road
passing from the Cowlitz river to Puget sound. The country behind the bay appears
low and flat, and well watered by the Chehalis and tributaries, which drain a section
well timbered and dotted with many small prairies and bottom lands.

OopaUs RiT«r. — From point Brown the shore-line trends about N.N.W. for 10 miles
to the mouth of the Copalis. The barren waste of point Brown continues along this
shore, commencing with a breadth of over one mile, stretching from the ocean to a
dense forest of fir, nid growing narrower as it approaches the Copalis, where the timber
comes to the water'^ edge.

This stream in about 100 yards wide, but the mouth is almost closed by a bar.
Upon its bankFi inido the Copalis tribe of Indians, from whom the river derives its
name. Like till the streams on this coast it abounds in salmon, but those caught here
are celebrated for their richness of flavcmr. Their general appearance is similar to
those of Columbia river, but this variety rarely ixoeeds 2 feet in length. They weigh
from 6 to 10 lbs.

reint OMnvUU.— From tlio Copalis river to this point the shore runs N.W. J N.
about 10 miles, and eonlinuoH low, nearly straight, and bordered by sand-beach, which
changes to shingle, disposed in long rows parallel with the coast. These ridges of

POINT GBENVILLE.

265

shhigle dam the mouths of many email streams and form ponds, ahocnding in tront,
and well stocked with beaver and otter, according to the accounts of the Indians. The
high land also approaches much nearer the beach, and forms sandstone cliffs, with
rooky ledges projecting into the ocean.

Point Grenville is a bluff rocky promontory, stretching westward about a mile, and
then southward about a quarter of a mile, forming a very contracted and exposed road-
stead. The 8-fathom curve extends about half a mile from the beach, compelling
vessels, except of very light draught, to anchor so far out thai the point and the rocks
off it afford but little protection from the north-west winds. It is useless during the
winter months. The point has high hills lying behind it, and many rocks immediately
off it; two of these rocks, about 75 feet high, lie E. by S. 400 yards distant; another
lies S.W. % S. half a mile distant, — this has a depth of 5 and 6 fathoms all around it,
and, we believe, is the one that shows a large perforation through it when vinwed from
the south-east or north-west. Other rocks stretch along the coast to the north-west ;
one of them, when seen from southward, resembles a sail. The bluff itself is com-
posed of fine sandstone, is very steep, and may be ascended by a difficult trail, which
is used by the Indians. It is said to be a gi'eat resort for sea otters, which are hunted
by the natives. Its approximate geographical position is lat. 47° 20', long. 124° 14'.
From cape Disappointment light it bears N.W. by N. i N., distant 62 miles, and from
tho cape soundings may be had in 8 to 15 fathoms, 3 or 4 miles from the shore.

In June 1855, the surveyors discovered in the direction of W. by N., distant 16 miles
from point Grenville, " a bank having 15 fathoms upon it, with very soft mud bottom;
at 21 miles distance, 17 fathoms; and at 29 miles, 86 fathoms; and 8 miles S.S.E.
of the first position we struck 16^ fathoms, with the same bottom, in all the soundings;
but had not time to make an extended examination. In April 1856, we found
46 fathoms in lat. 46° 54', long. 125° 8', being 16 miles broad off shore. The sound-
ings of 17, 18, and 10 fathoms, one mile from shore, would indicate a greater depth
than we obtained. Vancouver has 50 fathoms inside of our first soundings."

North of point Grenville to capo Classet the shore is bold and rooky, with occasional
short reaches of sand-beach. The timber comes down to the water; moderately high
hills approach tho coast, through which empty numerous small streams, whilst the
irregular Olympus range looms up far in tho interior. In winti these mountains are
covered with snow, which lies in the gorges and valleys nearly the whole summer.
Mount Olympus, the highest peak of the range, is estimated to have an elevation of
8188 feet.

From point Grenville, the coast begins to increase gradually in height. The shores,
in passing, will be observed to differ in some respects from those southward of it.
They are composed of low cliffs rising perpondiuularly from a beach of sand or small
stones, with many detached rocks of various remarkable forms lying at the distance of
about a mile from them. Tho soundings are regular, of 16 to 19 fathoms, soft
sandy bottom.

Along this part of the coast there appears to be a current setting northward at a
uniform rate of nearly half a league per liour, as Vancouver remarks, that after passing
eape Orford he was oarried northward more rapidly by 10 or 12 miles per day than h«

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266

POINT REYES TO CAPE CLASSET.

iRfi

expected. He also observed that in the vicinity of Destruction island, the strong
current or tide set him in-shore, so that he was obliged to anchor in a depth of
21 fathoms, on a bottom of soft sand and mud, at about 3^ miles S.S.W. from the
island. This in-shore Bet of the current was also experienced by Commander Wilkes,
U.S.N.. 1841.

The coast from De&truction island continues to increasA in height to the northward.
Off it are many rocky islets and sunken rocks, extending in some places a league from
the shore. Soon after passing the outermost of these rocks cape Classet, the south
point of the entrance of Juan de Fuca strait, may be plainly distinguished.

Quenintl River. — The mouth of this small stream is between 3 and 4 miles N.W.
by W. from point Grenville, and is almost closed by the shingle and gravel thrown up
by the surf; there is, however, a contracted opening for the passage of canoes in calm
weather. The closing of the entrance has so dammed the river as to form a small lake
inside, upon the banks of which is situated a village of the Queniutis, a race of Indians
hostile to all other tribes. Combined with other Indians to the northward they have
ever been notorious for their hostility and vindictiveness to the whites. Several
Spanish, English, and Russian vessels and their crews were, in former times, taken
and destroyed. Hence we meet with the names Destruction island, Isla de Dolores,
Punta de Martires, &c., in this immediate vicinity. The river is said to flow from a
lake at the foot of the mountains.*

For 4 miles above the Quenintl the coast trends in the same direction, N.W. by W.,
is composed of sandstone cliffs, and bounded by many precipitous rocks, the height and
direction of which are generally that of the cliff. In the Coast Survey reconnaissance
of 1852, one is placed 2^ miles off shore in latitude 47° 27', and the vessel's track is
laid down inside of it. A great many largo rocky islets lie close in-shore in this
vicinity, but northward the coast is nearly clear to Destruction island. It makes a
slight curve eastward, and alternates with bold yellow cliffs and low shores.

Seatruetlon Inland. — This island is the only one on the coast deserving the appella-
tion after leaving the Farnlloncs, off the bay of San Francisco. It is about 75 feet
high, flat on the top, covered with grass, but destitute of trees, and has high perpen-
dicular sides of the same height as tlio cliffs on the main. It is said that there are
some remarkable perforations through a rock near it, but these are doubtless, only
seen in particular directions, for, in passing close to it, the surveyors did not observe
them. On the eastern end were formerly some rude Indian huts. In Vancouver's
time two or three dwarf trees grew at each end.

When running along the coast, 10 miles off, it is very difficult to distinguish

• The UBUJO of this river is usually known by tlic old sottli^-H as Qm'-noitli, but the Indians ivro
said to proiionnco u c^a IT n|H'llcd Qiu'-iii-uil, lut'iMitiii^ tlio lirst ayilublo strongly, iiml the lust so
softly tlint mniiy iiorsons consider (hey call iht msulvi^s Hiinply Qiic-nai. A tribe still raillicr north
is called the Qiic-nait'-satI,. The JIiikkawH call it tho (inin-aitl. 1)(^ Molriin calls it " Kinint."

Tlu'se luiliims, when travelling by canoes along tliu low snndy beach south of point Grenville,
push out into the rollers, keep between tho lino of two Heus that liave broken, and polo the caiiue
tlirough tho surf. This peculiar mode is rather apt to excite the ftors of thoBO iBUorttUt of whut a
cauoc ciiu bo made to do when itkillfully liaudlud,

DESTllUCTION ISLAND, FL.VTTERY ROCKS, Jcc.

2(57

this island, becaase, being within 8} milos of the main, it is projected against the
coast cliffs and cannot be distinguished from them until close upon it.

The general direction of the island is N.N.E. and S.S.W., its extreme length is
nearly half a mile, and its width is about 800 yards at tho widest part near the
southern end. Towards the north it tapers to a small round point, from which projects
a gravelly tongue about 200 yards long, curving to the north-west. Just beyond this
tongue is a ledge sweeping to the westward one-third of a mile, with a few detached
rocks awash outside. Off the northern end of the island and ledge a number of large
detached rocks, with 3 and 5 fathoms between them, extend in the general direction
of the island, nearly a mile from the edge of the bluff, heavy breakers generally exist
throughout this rocky patch. The western approaches to the island present a very
rocky uneven bottom entirely unfitted for nnchorage. About 220 yards south of the
extremity of the reef at the southern end of lue island and a quarter of a mile from the
island there is a sunken rock with IG feet water upon it. The whole extent of the
island and reefs ip not more than 1§ miles in length by half a mile in width. It
affords no protection whatever against S.E. winds ; in fact, proximity to the island at
6uch times is highly dangerous.

Between the island and the main the soundings range from 7 to 12 fathoms, and
northward of it from 10 to 14 fathoms. The approximate geographical position of the
north end is lat. 47° 41', long. 124° 25'. From capo Disappointment it bears
N.W. by N. 84 milcs.-i=

From Destruction island northward the shore is composed of cliffs which form a
regular curve to a point bearing N.W i W. from the north end of the island, and
11 miles distant ; thence tho shore runs nearly straight on that course for 10 miles to
two high, abrupt, and well marked rocks, standing a mile from shore. The outer one
is bold and covered with tall trees, but tho inner one is bare. They are in about
lat. 48°, long. 124° 40'. Many others, but smaller, lie inside of them, and 19 fathoms
are found close outside. Along this stretch the shore is irregular and bluff, with many
high rocky islets oQ" it. About 15 miles from Destruction island, off the mouth of a
stream, there aro two rocky islets covered with trees, showing a cave in the sea-face of
the southern and larger one. They are close to the low beach, and behind the larger
one is a stockaded village. About 3 miles northward of these rocks is Table rock,
about 70 feet high, and one or two miles off shore. f

riattary Roeka. — From the rocks off tho coast in about lat. 48° to cape Classet,
in lat. 48° 28', tiie course is almost N.N.W., passing through a group of high, well-
marked, rocky islets, in lat. 48° 11', named tho " Flattery rocks." Before reaching
these tho coast-liue curves about a mile eastward, with a bluff shore nearly free from

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* Tliis iHlttrid is called Islii de Dolores upon old SpnniBli uiaps. It icctivod ita prosput unnio (by
wliicli only it is kuowu ou llio coiisl), in 17^7, I'lom Captuiu Berkeley, wl'.o sent n loii(,'-boat from
Kiiifi (ioorj.;o soiiud to explore ns t'nr Boutli bh liilitiulo -iT". The erew of a snmller botit entered a
bIioIIow river iiiid rowed up soii>e distunce, wluro tliry were nttiicked niul murdered by the Indians.

, t Maares calls the curve of the ^oast about Destruotiou inland, " Queeuhythe boy," evidently a
corruption of the Que-ni-alt, or Qur'-noith,

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268

POINT BEYES TO GAPE CLASSET.

rocks for aboat 8 miles, when a large white rook, half a mile out, looms ap prominently,
and is distinctly seen against the main land.

Flattery rocks extend between 2 or 8 miles from shore ; the enter ledge is awash
with one islet in it, and the track of the coast sarveying steamer is laid down inside of
it, with soundings in 9 to 20 fathoms. High islets, covered with timber, lie inside,
with their ocean faces nearly perpendicnlar, about 160 feet high, and sloping landward.
Where destitute of trees, these are covered with grass, bushes, &e. The approximate
latitude of the rocks is 48° 12'.

From Flattery rocks a high rocky coast, bordered by outlying rooks, continnea
for 8 miles, when a low sand-beach occurs, receiving a small stream which runs E.N.E.
and finally North, behind the mountain constituting cape Classet, to within 200 yards
of the beach in Nee-ah bay. A rise of 20 or 80 feet of the sea would make cape
Classet an island, extending 5 miles W.N.W. by 8 miles in breadth. This creek is
nsed by the outer coast Indians during the prevalence of heavy winter gales, when the
passage outside the cape would be impracticable.

From point Grenville to cape Classet the hills rising from the coast are about
2000 feet high, densely covered with trees, and cut np by innumerable valleys.
The shore is inhabited by numerous tribes of Indians, accustomed to war and bitterly
hostile to the whites.*

Tatoosii Zaiand and Usht. — This island lies W.N.W. half a mile from the point of
cape Classet. It is composed of small islets connected by reefs, is quite flat-topped,
and without trees. The surface is 108 feet above high water, and the sides are
perpendicular ; the entire mass is composed of course sandstone conglomerate with an
outcrop of basalt on one of the reefs. There is a depth of 2 or 8 feet of soil upon the
top, which was formerly cultivated by the Indians, who resorted here in summer,
about 160 strong, and had several houses near the only boat landing on the inside of
the island (1862). A reef extends a quarter of a mile o£f the west side of the island,
and the whole extent of the island and reef is only half a mile W.N.W. by a third of a
mile. Deep water is found upon all sides, except between it and the cape, where a
reef exists upon which the sea breaks very heavily in bad weather. It has been asserted
that small vessels have gone through this channel when caught by an unfavourable
wind ; — in so doing great risk must have been incurred, as the currents in the vicinity
run very irregularly and strong.

From the top of the island a leaning rocky column, about 140 feet high and 60 feet
in diameter, is seen to the south-eastward close under the face of the cape. It is
sometimes called Fuca's pillar.

The lighthouse standing on the highest part of the island consists of a brick tower,

* These Indians are far superior to those fouud along the coast to the southward. Their
Tillages arc heavily stockaded, and the houses raaAei of cedar hoards, which they have cut with great
industry from the tree ; some of these boards are over 4 feet wide and 20 feet long ; — the outside
edges being about an iAch thick and 3 inches in tlie middle. Their houses are very large, and
partitioned off into stalls for each family. The numerous streams emptying upon the coast afford
them a never failing supply of the finest salmon ; and to obtain means of barter with white traders
they fearlessly attack and capture tba different ipeciei of whala on tht coMt.

CAPE CLASSET OR FLATTEUY.

S60

whitewashed, rising from a dwelliqg and sarmonnted by an iron lantern painted red.
It exhibits & fixed white light, at 162 feet above the sea, visible abont 20 miles. Its
geographical position is lat. 44° 28' 20", long. 124° 44' SO". The arc of illamination
seaward from the lighthouse, starting from the land southward, is 268°, hence it is
also a useful guide to vessels in Juan de Fuca strait. A fog-whistle gives blasts
of 8 seconds duration at intervals of 52 seconds, during foggy weather.

Duncan Bock. — This is a small, low, black rock rising above the highest tides, but
always washed by the western swell, which breaks over it. Deep water is found close
around it. From Tatoosh island light it bears N.W. by N., distant rather more than
a mile, and many vessels pass between them, as the chart shows 25 to 40 fathoms ;
but a rock having been reported in abont midway, it would be prudent to avoid this
channel until the doubt is set at rest. Vancouver's vessels passed between them.

During a three months' stay at Nee-ah harbour in 1852, the surveyors tried upon
several occasions to land upon this rock with canoes, but without success.

Duntze Rock. — At nearly a quarter of a mile N.W. by N. ifom Duncan rock, and
consequently with that rock in one with Tatoosh island, is Duntze rock, upon which is
a depth of 8 fathoms. The sea usually breaks upon it with great violence. Close to
the north side of this rock is deep water, of 60 to 100 fathoms.

With no wind, a heavy swell from the west, ebb current, and proximity to these
outlying rocks and island, a vessel's position is unsafe, and great caution should be
exercised in navigating this part of the entrance to the strait of Fuca.

OAVB cx.ASSBT.'i' — Cape Classet (or Flatterv) forms the southern head of the
entrance of the strait of Juan de Fuca ; it has a bold rugged sea-face, about 100 feet high,
much disintegrated by the wearing action of the ocean ; in a mile it rises to an irregular
hill of 1500 or 2000 feet in height. The Gape is cut up by gorges and covered with a
dense growth of fir and almost impenetrable underbush from the edge of the cliffs to the
summit. The shore-line round lo Nee-ah bay is of thie same forbidding character,
bordered by rsefs, and having but one short stretch of beach at the foot of the hills.
Upon this beach is situated (or was in 1852^ Clisset village. The soundings half a
mile from shore are deep and irregular, reaching 68 fathoms. The current runs as
much as 8 miles per hour, and during the ebb sets irregularly round the cape, Tatoosh
island, and Duncan rock. When seen from south-westward cape Classet looks like an
island, on account of the valley 8 or 4 miles eastward of it. The best position for
seeing this is when a single rock off the cape shows itself detached. From this
direction the high mountains on Vancouver island loom up and stretch far away to the
north-west and to the east.

At the entrance to the strait of Juan de Fuca, 15 miles (by estimation) W.N.W.
from cape Classet, is said to be a bank, having 18 fathoms upon it, which is much
frequented by codfish. When the surveyors were encamped in Nee-ah bay, in 1862,

• So named by Vancouver in 1792, probably from the tribe of Indians, or chief of the tribe
inhabiting that region, and by this name British geographers asaally recognise it ; but in the
American coast nurvey ohsrti it ia called cape Flattery, Captain Cook having given it the latter
aama ia 1778.

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STRAIT OF JUAN DE FUCA.

the ludiaus frequeutly went out upon some bank off the strnit to fish for cod, but their
assertions were looked upon with distrust, as it was believed that they caught tie fish
inside of the strait. Circumstances have hitherto prevented aa exarainatioii of this
bank.

STRAIT OF JUAN DE FUCA.

Magnetic Variation in 1980. — At the entrance of the Strait 221° E. ; Off Royal bay
22 i" E. The annual increase' is estimated to be 2 minutes.

Juan de Fuca strait has its entrance between latitudes 48" 23' and 48° 36', on the
meridian of 124° 45'. It runs eastward as far as long. 122" 45', or as far as the west
'coast of Whidbey island. Its geographical position makes it liable to all those sudden
vicissitudes of weather common to high northern latitudes ; and in few parts of the
world is the caution and vigilance of the navigator more called into action than when
entering it.

The breadth of the strait between cape Classet or Flattery, its southern point, and
Bonilla point, (Vancouver island) its northern, is 13 miles ; within these points it
soon narrows to 11 miles, and carries this breadth on an East course for 40 miles, or
until Race Islands bear N.E. by E., distant 10 miles ; it then takes an E.N.E.
direction for a farther distance of 14 miles to the shore of the continent, or more
properly Whidbey ibland.

Between Race islands and the southern shore the breadth of the strait is 8 miles,
after which it immediately expands to 17 miles, leading northward to the British
possessions by various channels among the labyrinth ')f islands known as the Haro
archipelago, and southward to those of the United States, by Admiralty inlet and
Puget sound.

The coasts of Juan de Fuca strait are bold, abrupt, and covered with a heavy
growth of varied timber and dense underbush. They are remarkably free from danger,
and may be approached safely within half a mile ; there is one breaking rock which
lies nearly that distance off the west point of Crescent; bav on the southern shore.'''*
The soundings in the centre are of great depth, no bottom being found in its deepest
parts with 150 fathoms of lino ; but within 1.^ miles of either shore there is generally
under 40 fathoms, and on the uorthuru side when 5 miles eastwara of port Han Juun,
8 to 12 fathoms will be found within a mile of the shore, and, if necessary, vessels

* It may be hero remarked that almost all tho rocky shoals and dniifiprs in these latitndeci Rra
well marked by kelp; indeed the Sulp line, to a stranger, is in every iiiBtanoo the danger line, and
should be hvoided, for though it *iU sotiK'timcB sliow in a depth of even 40 fathoms, it is iiUiiyB
indicative of the presence of rocks, and should not be ventured into unless it has been w«U
ascertained to be free from suukcu dangers.

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271

may anchor. On both sides of the strait there are several anchorages or stopping
places which may he taken advantage of by vessels, either iuuard or outward bouml
when meeting with adverse winds; — those on the southern side are Neo-ah and
Callam bays, port Angelos, and New Dungeness bay, all westward of the harbours of
Admiralty inlet ; on the northern side are port San Juan, Sooke inlet, and Becher bay,
all westward of the Race islands, eastward of which excellent anchorage may be
always obtained with westerly winds.

On the northern or Vancouver island shore of the strait the hills rise gradually and
are densely wooded, but near the coas^t attain to no great elevation. On t!io
southern side the almost perpetually snow-clad mountains known as the Olympian
range, rise moi-e abruptly and vary in cleviilion fcdui •10(;0 to move than 7000 feet ;
but though exceedingly grand in their rug;j;ed outline, present no very marked summits
as seen from the strait nor any great variety in tlicir features ; — on this shore a steep
cliffy coast commences at 30 miles from cape Classet and continues for about 50 miles, —
it is 50 to 200 feet high aud a flat country behind extends nea)ly to llie base of the
Olympian range and stretches further southward as the eastern part of the strait is
approached. On the east tlie face of Whidbey island is very steep ; it is about
250 feet high and appears flat, as does the whole country eastward to the sharp-cut
outline of the Cascade range, stretching its serrated ridge northivard, where the snow-
peak of mount Baker is distinctly seen, and to the southward, where the higher peak
of mount Rainier attracts the eye, — this mountain is believed to be more than
15.000 feet high.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at cape Classet at noon and at midnight ;
the ebb stream there commences to run strong at 2h. a.m. and p.m. and continues for
about G hours.

In the outer part of Juan de Fuca strait there is no very great strength of tide ; it
varies from 1 to 4 knots, seldom so much as the latter unless near cape Classet ; but
when approaching the more contracted part in the neighbourhood of the Rice islands,
which I'eceives the first rush of the pent up waters of the strait of Georgia, strengthened
and diverted by the labyrinth of islands which choke jp its southern entrance, it is
not surprising that eddies, races, and iiTogularities occur which almost baflSe any
attempt at framing laws which may not rather embarrass than assist the seaman ; the
result, however, of observations continued throughout an entire year atEsquimalt, and
partially on other parts of the coast durug three seasons, appears to warrant the
following conclusion, viz : —

The flood tide sets to the northward along the outer coast of the continent and
Vancouver island. It enters the strait of Fuca at cape Classet, running with
considerable velocity, sometimes 3 or 4 knots over Duncan and Dnntze rock ; it then
turns sharply into the strait, passing through the various channels among the Haro
archipelago into the strait of Gi orgia, and within about 5 miles of cape Mudge, where
it is met by a flood from the northward, which, sweeping the western coast of Vancouver
island, enters Golotas channel and Queen Charlotte sound at its northern extreme,
in lat 51°, thence southerly down the narrow waters of Johnstone strait and Discovery
passage, meeting the tide wliich enters by Fuca strait, and reaches about midway

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between the northern and sonthem extremes of YanoonTer island, or close to the spot
vhero the broad expanse of the strait of Georgia merges into the iuutow channels
adjoining it.

On the western side of the island the tides were fonnd to he regular — flood and ebb
of 6 hours' duration, the times of high water on the full and change at Nootka sound,
and at the entrance of Goletas channel varying very little, and occurring near noon,
the greatest range 18 feet; nor is any marked irregularity observable in Johnstone
strait and Discovery passage, except the not unusual circuu»:'tance that the ebb stream
continues ta run to the northward for 2 hours after it is low water by the shore, the
water rising at the same time, the ebb stream being of 7 hours' duration, the flood
about 6 hours.

The great and perplexing tidal irregularities may therefore be said to be embraced
between the strait of Juan de Faca, near the Race islandu, and cape Mudge, a distance
of 150 milet ; and a careful investigation of the observations made at Esquimau,
and among the islands of the Haro archipelago, shows tha^ luring the summer months.
May, June, and July, there occurs but one high and ou' low " ater during the 24 hours,
high water at the full and change of the moon happening about midnight, and varying
but slightly from that hour during any day of the three months ; the springs range
from 8 to 10 feet, the neaps from 4 to 5 feet. The tides are almost stationary
for 2 hours on either side of high or low water, unless affected by strong winds outs:de.
During August, September, and Ccto1)er, th«>:e are two high and low waters in the
24 hours ; a superior and an inferior tide, the high water of the superior varying
between Ih. and 8h. a.u., the range during these months from 8 to 6 feet, the night
tide the highest.

During winter almost a reversal of these rules appears to take place ; thus, in
November, December, and January, the 12-hour tides again occur, but the time of
high water is at or about noon instead of midnight.

In February, March, and April, there are two tides, the superior high water
occurring from Ih. to 8h. p.k. Thus it may be said that in summer months the
water is low during the day, and in winter low during the night.

The ebb stream has always been found to run southward through the Earo
archipelago, and out of Fuca strait for 2^ hours after it is low water by the shore, the
water risi;ag during that time ; the ebb is stronger than the flood, and generally two
hours' longer duration.

The tideu during those months when two high and two low waters occur in the
24 hours, are far more irregular than when there is only one 12-hour tide, and another
anomaly exiuis, viz., the greatest range not unfrequently occurs at the first ana last
quarters, instead of ui the full and change of the moon.

Currents, — A southerly current has been found to prevail on the western coast of
Vancouver ibland more or less throughout the year, particularly from August to
November, probably in some measure caused by the N.W. winds which blow
constantly during the summer. This current joining the ebb tide out of Fuca strait
has been known to set vessels between 4 and 6 miles an hour to the southward, and
during fogs there is great risk of being drifted oa to cape Classet, or some of its

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STRAIT OF JUAN DE FUCA.

273

off-lying dangers ; extreme caution should therefore be observed in entering the strait
at such times, especially near the full and change of the moon, when the tides are at
their strongest.

Winds. — Withiii the strait of Juan de Fuca, in the winter season, the winds usually
assume its direction either up or down. During summer, the prevailing winds from
N.W. or S.W., take a westerly direction within the strait; while the S.E. gales of
winter blow fairly out.

Although a westerly wind may be blowing within the strait, it frequently during the
change of the seasons blows heavily outside at the same time from S.S.W., or some-
times suddenly changes to that direction, from a light easterly wind on opening the
entrance, which makes that part of the coast of Vancouver island between port San
Juan and Bonilla point a dangerous lee-shore to a ship without steam power.

The coast winds in summer prevail from S.W. and N.W., the former during the
early months, and the latter blow fresh and with great regularity during June, July,
and August. In September and the early part of October the winds are very uncertain
and there is generally a great deal of calm, gloomy weather.

The barometer usually stands above 30-00 inches during summer ; should it fall to
29*90 a south-easterly wind with thick rainy weather may be expected, but of short
duration and clearing up with a westerly wind as soon as the barometer rises.

The winter winds are S.E. and S.W., more frequently the former; they set in
towards the end of October, and continue until the middle of April. S.E. gales are
generally preceded by a short interval of calm, cloudy weather; they spring up
gradually from East or E.S.E. veering to the southward, accompanied by rain and
thick weather, the barometer falling rapidly; when the barometer becomes stationary
the wind shifts suddenly to S.W. and blows heavily with clear weather, but frequent
squalls of rain; the barometer bf ms to rise immediately the wind veers to S.W., from
which quarter it generally blows from 12 to 20 hours.

The violence and duration of these S.E. gales are always proportioned to the fall of
the mercury; with the barometer at 29'50 a strong gale may be looked for from this
quarter; it seldom falls below 29 '20, when very bad weather is certain to follow. On
two or three occasions in as many years it has been known to fall to 28-90, and has
been followed by S.E. gales of great violence.

A S.E. gale sometimes springs up, though very seldom, with the barometer above
80-00 inches. On such occasions the wind has always been preceded by calm, cloudy
weather and rain, with a high but falling barometer; such gales are not violent and of
short duration.

S.E. gales are always accompanied by thick dirty weather, and rain ; they seldom
continue from that quarter for more than 12 or 18 hours, unless the barometer falls
very low, and almost always shift to S.W.

When the S.W. gale of winter is not preceded by the south-eastern, the barometer
seldom falls ; it either remains stationary, when the gale may be expected to continue
longer, or rises slowly, when it will gradually subside and fine weather follow. S.W.
gales are accompanied by heavy jbanks of clouds, and passing showers of rain, some-
times 8U0W.

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The barometer has been known to fall during winter as low as 29'45 and has been
followed by no gale or bad weather, but on such occasions there has been a heavy fall
of snow on the bills, and a sudden fall of 15 degree^ iu the temperature.

A fine northerly or N.E. wind frequently occurs at intervals duriuf the months of
December, January, and February; it is always accompanied by a high barometer
above SO'O, and at such times a continuance for several days together of clear, cold,
frosty weather may be looked for ; the barometer on these occasions will sometimes
rise as high as 3070, and the fine weather will then probably last a fortnight or more.

Foffs. — Although fugs in this region are not nearly of such frr auent occurren'ie as
on the neighbouring coast of California, where 'hey prevail almost uninterruptedly
during summer and as iate as the middle of October, yet from August to November
they occasionally occur m Juan dc Fuca strait, and are sometimes very dense over the
entrance for several days together. They are generally accompanied by calms or very
light winds from N.W., which renders them more dangerous to sailing vessels closing
the laud.

Soundiuijs. — Between the parallels of 48° and 49° the IflO-fathom bank extends for
82 miles off shore, and for 5 or 6 miles on either side of the parallel of 48° 80', which
passes through the centre of Juan de Fuca strait, no greater depth tlian 55 fathoms is
found at the distance of 40 miles from the entrance. Stccrint^ for the strait within
these limits of latitude, viz., a few miles on either side of 48° 80', from 55 to 60 fathoms
will be carried for 20 miles, the bottom fine dark sand, pometimi's varied by gravel and
Bmall stones, when it will deeprn to 80 iind 1)0 fathoms, generally muddy bottom, for a
farther distance of 10 miles; a vessel will then be within 8 or 10 miles of the strait :
if to the northward of 48° 80' the water should shofil to SO and 40 fathoms rocky or
gravel boUom ; if to the southward it will continue deep and will increaso to more than
100 fathoms, when within 8 or 9 miles of capo Classet.

The outer edge of the bank is rather steep, falling from 90 to 150 fathoms and then
no botto'n with the ordinary line. There is one peculiarity which should not pass
unnoticed; the deep channel of over 100 fathoms, which runs through the centre of
the strait, on entering the ocean is deflected to the southward, probably owing to the
superior strength of the ebb strcnm and the southerly current, and a zone of deep
water about 8 miles in width, with from 140 to 150 fathoms, extendi in that direction
to the 48" paralhd; between it and the shore, a distance of about 8 milen, the depth
decreases suddenly to 80 fathoms fine dark sand, uud immediately outside it from
67 io 80 fathoms will be found.

Mr. Davidson, U.S. (loast Survey, sayrf, 1800: — "During dry summorB the Indiana
aud settlers set fire to the forests in every direction, and the country soon beccmea
cuvrlopod in a vast smoke thu' lusts for two or three months. At such times it is
freqiii^utly impossible to make out the shore at half a mile dii*tftiieo. The s'.rotig
westerly winda coming up the strait disporso it fur a\shilo, but only to fun the fires and
give them renewed forcf3 nnd activity.

In summer the prevailing wind draws into the strait, incrcnsirg towards evening,
and IVequcutly bluwiiifj a 10-kuot breeze before midnight; but unless the wind is strong
MKLklde littb) i felt iu the strait, aud very frequently vessels are a week from cape

STRAIT OF JUAN DE FUCA.

27£

Classet to Admiralty inlet, or vice versa. In winter the south-east winds draw directly
out, and create a very heavy cross sea off the entrance, the great south-west swell
meeting that rolling out. In such cases trading vessels try to gain Ne( -ah bay or San
Juan harbour, and remain at anchor until the wind changes. In beating in or out
vessels may run as close under either shore as wind and currents warrant, as uo hidden
dangers have been found half a mile off shore, except at the west side of the small
indentation called Crescent bay, near Striped peak, 44 miles inside of Duncan rock.

At the entrance the currents acquire, during the ' large tide ' of each day, a velocity
of 4 miles per hour, and after strong north-west winds, a very large, short, but regular
swell is encountered west of Neo-ah bay during the ebb current. If the wind is light,
and no steerage way on the vessel, the feeling is decidedly disagreeable, especially as
the current seems constantly to set close around Duncan rock and Tatoosh island. If
a vessel falls into the trough of this swell she is bound to fetch away something.

Settlers are gradually advancing from Puget sound and Admiralty inlet along the
strait westward, and are destined to meet those coming up the coast from Gray har-
bour and Shoahvater bay.

Washington Territoiy has a climate excelled only by that of California. We know
not where to point to such a i-amifioatlon of inland uavigatioi^ save in the British
possessions to the northward. For depth of water, boldness of approaches, freedom
from hidden dangers, and the immoasurablo sea of gigantic timber coming down to
the very shores, these waters are unsurpassed."

DirActions. — Vessels from southward or westward bound for Fuca strait, except the
coasting steamers which all carry pilots, should make cape Classet ; there is no induce-
ment to hug the coast, on which a long rolling swell frequently sets, and this swell
meeting the south-easterly gules of winter, causes a confused sea. The cape and its
off-lying rocks should not bo approached within a distance of at least 8 miles, as the
tide occasionally sets over Duncan and Duntze rock with great velocity, an additional
reason why these dangers should not bo too closely approached. It is equally
necessary either in entering or leaving the strait to avoid the coast of Vancouver island
between port San Juiui and IJonilla point, when there is any appearance of bad weather.

It is recommended to pass at the d'dtanco of at least 10 niilcs from the coast, unlesa
working to windward against a lino northerly wind, which is frequently found during
Buuimcr, when it may bo safely appioachcd within 8 miles or loss.

To vessels making the strait in bad weather it will bo more desirable to run in and
seek shelter than to remain outside. If tho laud has boon made either to the south-
ward of capo Classet or on the Vancouver island shore within a moderate distance of
the entraueo, or if the latltiule can be relied upon wiLliin 2 or 8 miles, it will bo
Oidvisable to run for the strait. Tho powerful light on Tatoosh island (capo Classet)
will, unless in very thick weather, or fog, bo seen at a considorablo distance, and bfl
soon as a voseol is actually within the strait she will havo comparatively smooth water,
with sufficient sea i'oom, and may run boldly up the ocniro for tho light on Race islands,
or by tho assistance of that on Tatoosh island, maintain h.or position in tho strait if
preferred. It is to ho rennirkoil (hat wlicu Tatoosh island liglit is brought to boar
we8t.ward of W.S.W., it beconioa shut in by tho land about Noii-ah bay, au«i that tho

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RacA island light from a similar cause becomes obscured by Beechey head when brongfit
to boar eastward of E. by N. ^ N. ; therefore, when either of these lights are obscured,
the distance from either coast will be accurately judged, and in the latter case a ship
will be getting too close to the northern shore.

Coming from westward with a heavy westerly or north-west gale, thick weather, and
uncertain of the latitude, it would be prudent to lay by at not less than 80 miles from
the entrance to the strait, or on the edge of the bank of soundings. These galea
seldom last more than 12 hours, and if they veer towards the S.W. the weather will
clear, and a vessel may immediately bear up for the strait.

With a S.E. gale it is recommended to close the land, smoother water will be
obtained, and the bank of soundings off the Vancouver island shore will give a vessel
pretty accurately her distance from the laud. Gales from this quarter sometimes
continue in the winter season for 80 hours, and when a vessel strikes soundings on the
ed,?3 of the bank in 90 fathoms, and carries them into 60 she may put her head to
the S.W., and will have plenty of room for drift.

It is of great importance in making the strait during bad weather to strike the outer
edge of the bank of soundings, as the ship's distance from the land will then be - "cu-
rately known. It has been already observed that after running 20 miles eastward the
depth increases from C 5 to 80 and 00 fathoms, which latter depths, if the lead has
not been previously kept going, might be mistaken for the outer edge.

Should a sailing vessel be overtaken by one of those dense fogs which sometimes
hang over the entrance of the strait, she should not close the laud but stand off suffi-
ciently far to avoid being set by the southerly current too near capo Classet. If a
steamer has made the land or light, and is certain of her position, she should get the
northern or Vancouver island shore aboard, when, with the assistance of the chart and
lead, she may feel her way in. When -8 or 10 miles eastward of port San Juan there
is anchoring ground ii> 12 fathoms a mile from the shore, and if the fog is very dense
a stranger should anchor ; it must be remarked, however, that not anfrequently the
weather ia clear a few miles within the strait while the entrance ie totally obscured.

SOUTHERN SHORE OF THE STRAIT.

in>li-AH BAT. — From the lighthouse on Tatoosh island the coast trends 4 miles
E.N.E. to Koitlah point, the wostorn side of Net: ah bay. From capo Classet the
shore is nearly straight, high, ond rugged, backed by hills about IfiOO or 2000 feet high,
and covered with timber. Peep water is found within a third of a mile of the bluffs,
and at a di^^auce of half a mile, a depth of 20 fathoms is obitiiucd. Within a milo of
Koitiah point was n largo village of the Mukltaws, in 18/32.

Neu-ah bay is about 1\ miles long S.S.E., and tho same in width ot the ontrnnoo.
The western side iw high, precipitous, and bordered by cinf(py ont-cioppiiig rocks JlOOor
400 yards from the shore. The H-fathom line rangos about (100 yards from the foot
of tho bluff. The general direction of this side is H.E. for one uiilo, when the hillo
suddenly cease, and a low shore, with sand beach backed by woods, curvcH gradually
to tho N.E. by E. for 1^ miles to Ba-adduh poiut, formed by a spur of the hills.

NEE-AH BAY.

277

The east side of the bay is formed by Waaddah island, the northern end of which
lies H miles from Koitlah point in an E. by N. i N. direction. This island is a
narrow high ridge, about 250 yards wide, and half a mile long, covered with trees, and
having a direction S.E. ^ E., pointing towards Ba-ad-<lah point, and presenting the
appearance of a continuation of that spur, but separated from it by a 4-fathom channel
600 yards wide. Off the south-west part rocks extend for 250 yards, and the 8-fathom
line is 600 yards distant. Along the sand beach the 8-fathom line is within 200 yards
of the shore, the depth increasing to 7 fathoms, then decreasing to 5 in the middle of
the bay, and ogain increasing ic 10 on the outer line of the bay. Much kelp abounds
in this hpiboar, even in deep water.

The best anchorage is in the south part of the bay, in about 5 fathoms, being then
o? the small stream which comes in at the eastern foot of the hills. No direction can
be given about anchoring off any particular village, as the Indians change their location
80 frequently ; but near this stream will generally be found some houses, with an
abundance of fresh water. During southerly weather little swell is felt here, and the
wind can do no harm ; but when a large westerly swell is coming up the strait it
reaches here, and a vessel rolls uncomfortably unless she rides head to it.

The low ground abreast of the anchorage, and but 200 or 800 yards from the beach,
ia the head of a small stream that runs through the low prairie lands behind cape
Glasset, and empties into Kisco bay south of the cape, near a winter village of the
Mukkaws, called Wa-atch. This stream is frequently used by them in winter, when
they cannot take their canoe<i outside the cape.

Observations made behind the beach at about 400 yards eastward of the small
stream before referred to, determined its geographical position to bo lat. 48° 21' 49",
long. 124° 87' 12". From the N.W. end of Waaddah island it bears S. by W. i W.,
dist^ant 1} miles.

" A good berth will bo found in Nee-ah bay, in G fathoms sandy bottom, with the
outer point of Waaddah island N.E. by N., and Koitlah point W. by N.; a short
distance within this position kelp grows in large patches all over the bay, and some
care is necessary in selecting a berth. Largo sailing vessels may anchor in 7 or
8 fathoms r little outside the above boariugH, in the centre of the bay, with the outer
point of the island N.E. by E.

A vessel should loave this bay on any indication of a uoi-th-eant wind, and if too
late, and unable to weather Wuad'tah island, she may, with the assistance of the chart,
run between it and the main; the passage is 2 cables in breadth, and the least water
21 feet; she must, howevor, bo careful to avoid the ledge off the south-west end of
Waaddah, and in hauling out should give the eastern side of the island a berth of at
least a quarter of a niilo. Vessels have ridden out north--,vc8t gnlcs close to the south-
east cud of Waaddah in ti futhonis, but it is more prudent to get out into the strait at
the commencement of the gale. During strong westerly or south-west gales, or after
they have boou blowing outside, a cojKideniLlo swell rolls into the bay, which renders
it at such times a somewhat disagn cable though not unsafe anchorngu; small vessels
may go close in and get smooth water, even a; loug the kelp which grows in 4 and
& fathoms." — Vancouver Island I'ilot, 1804.

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Tides.— The corrected establishment of the port is 12h. 88m. The mean rise «nd
fall of tides is 5-6 feet; of spring tides 7'4 feet; and of neap tides 4-8 feet.

At about 2 miles eastward of WaaddaL islaud, and within the limits of the kelp, is
a rock 150 feet high; behind it enters a small stream.*

CAXiLAxa VA.Tr. — From the eastern point of Nee-ah bay to Sekou point, the western
part of Callam bay, the course is E. i S., and distance 13J miles. The shore-line is
nearly straight, bluff, and bordered ty rocks, with an occasional stretch of sandy beach.
At a mile off shore the average depth of water is 20 fathoms. The bay is at tho
western termination of a high, bold, wooded ridge, running parallel to tho shore, with
an almost perpendicular water face, and falling away rapidly in-shore. This ridge is
about 1000 feet high and 7 miles long; — its western extremity lies E. 4 S. IG miles
from Wia,addah islaud, and is called Slip point; its eastern is designated Pillar point.
The width of the bay from Sekou point to Slip point is 2 miles, and the bearing
E. by N. i N. Outside these limits is a depth of 15 fathoms ; in about the middle of
the bay the depth is 6 fathoms. • Into it empties a small stream from the south-east-
ward, having low land on its eastern side, and a small rise on the west. Some sunken
rocks are said to lie off Slip point.

Callam bay is quite open to all winds from northward and north-westward, and is
consequently only safe during the prevalence of those from southward and south-east-
ward. The usual anchorage is in 8 to 6 fathoms. It must be considered only as a
temporary stopping place.

The water along the face of tho ridge (just mentioned) is very deep, and the bottom
rocky and irregular.

nuar Foint is in lat. '18" 13', and nearly 23 miles E. J S. from tho north end of
Waaddah island. This point is named I'illar point from tho circumstance that it
terminates in a bare columnar-shaped rock, slightly separated from the main ridge by
a depression ; it is conscquenlly a rather remarkable object, where iVom tho character
of tho country, gaiicrally thickly wooded from summit to water liue, few objects present
themselves by which vessels may accurately fix their position. From this point tho
shore trends S.S.E. about a mile, and roeeivi's a stream coming from the westward,
called Canel river. An Indian villiige exists here. Tho Indian name of the stream
is Pisht-st.

From Pillar point tho next prominent objoct is a woodid LIU call d Striped peak,
bearing E. by N., and distant 17 miles. Within this distance tho shore retreats to
the southward of this liue of bearing (E. by N.) about 3 miles, having alternate bluff
and low shores with many little ptreams oponiiig upon them, and at 11 or 12 miles from
Pillar point is Low point, at tho mouth of a stream called tho Lyre.l- Hocks abound
close along the slioro. Tiio kelp g'.jicrally cxleiuls out to H fatlunns, and tho averugb
depth of water, a milo off, is 10 lathoms. Ouo mile before reaching the western part

* Tliii rock Hlnit in \i\i\i tlio Boutb-east cud of Waaddah iBknd is Ktid to al«ar the rockn ex-
iaudiiiK fruui Kuitlnli iioint.

t TLe Indian ntiue uf tho rirer is Kwa-La-uiiBh.

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FRESHWATER BAY AND PORT ANGELOS.

S79

of Striped peak is a sunken rock, upon which the a«A breaks kit low water.>!= A slight
indentation of the shore here has received the name of Orescent bay.

Striped peak is several hundred feet high, and wooded ; the base of the hill towards
the water presents a straight line, running E. by N. for 3 miles, with deep water off it.

rsEBBWATEn BA7,~ -The eastern part of Striped peak forms the western
boundary of Freshwater bay ; it is named Observatory point, and has several rocks off
it. The eastern side of the bay is the low delta called Angelos point, at the mouth of
the river Elwha, and the two points are distant from each other 8 miles in an E. by
N. J N. direction. Inside of this lino the depth of the curve is about IJ miles, with
water ranging from 10 fathoms in the middle to 4 or 5 close in-shore. Tho western
efcore of the bay is bluff, the eastern low, with bluff in the rear. The waters of the
Elwha bring down such quantities of earth that a dopth of only 10 fathom's is found at
a distance of three-quarters of a m'le from its mouth.f

Freshwater bay, being quite open to all winds from northward, should only be used
as a temporary stopping place. It is usual to anchor in 9 to 6 fathoms.

FORT ANaz:x.os. — At i miles eastward of the river Ehvha commences a long, low,
very narrow sand-spit, stretching out from the bluff in a general E.N.E. direction for
8 miles, to the point known as Ediz hook, which lies 1^ miles off the main, thus
forming an excellent and extensive harbour, with deep water of 25 to 30 fathoms,
sandy bottom, close under tho inside of the sand-spit, almost to the head of the bay.
Through the centre of the bay the surveyors say they '-found a line of 15 fathoms,
sticky bottom, and between that and the main it shoals very regularly with the same
kind of bottom." On the outside of the spit very deep water is found close to it, and
the hook may be rounded within a cable's length in 25 fathoms. In the indentation
between Angelos point and the head of the bay- tho wate/ is ahoal, 10 fathoms being
found at 2 miles from shore. |

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• This rock is tho only kiiowu detached sunken diinger off tho soutlicrii coast of iho etrait, with tlia
exception of a, rock 11 ftat under water, a sliort diHtuuoe from the land, at about Oj miles westward
frcn the liglithouae on New Dungcness. Westward of it flome kelp growS a sliort tlistanoo from
tlie beach ou tho somewtiat eheltertid part letvioii Striped peak and Pillar point, and here tha
depth of water at a mile Irom the shore varies IVom tj to IG fathoms ; westward of Fillar point it
deepens to M fathoms nl that distance.

f At the lime of 'lio survey, this river had two mouths, but as it runs for flrime distance oloso to
tiie btach, it is likely that the position and nunibir of tliefo entrances depend very mnch nnon the
melting of tlie snow, and from other sources of supply in the Angelos valley, wlienco this river flowB.
From Auts'elof. point, the hills rocede, and have a level spaeu between them and tho const ; thenco
tl.oy 1180 nulJuiily to u (^real liiighL, their aummiu ciipiied with snow, even in suniiuor, forininjj
Borne of tho highest peaks of tho indiint Olympus nun,'o. The most conspieuous brc.ik in these
nionntains is a decj) and nairow valley abreast this point, called Angelos valley, wlicnoc, as before
remarked, tho river Elwha Hows in a good siKod dtreani, having sulllcient water to admit boats. The
whole of this country is covered with Una wond, and ahounds in detr and otlur game, but it in diUl-
cult to poiKtrute, from tho underwood and fuileu trees. There are Eeverul Indian lodges on and
near the coast,

{ It may bo remarked hero that, in every instance these reniarkallo shinglo spits are thrown out
in tho direction of the Hood stream, and it is probublo that this is a rule which obtains in every part
of tho world, for wherever a shingle spit is thrown out, it gmorally takes thn direction of the flood
Blream, let tho prevailing winds bo what thoy may. This eircinustnncc may be a useful hint, in tho
oonatruolioa of worki forprevcntinj; the growth of shingly spits.

lily

280

STRAIT OF JUAN DE FUCA.

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.*.

The hook is covered with coarse grass, and in many places with driftwood, showing
that the sea sometimes washes over it ; it is so low that at a distance it can only be
distinguished by its lighthouse. At the head of the bay is a large salt-water lagoon.
Fresh water is found on the south shoie in several places, but the extensive flats
render it hard to obtain. The bluff, 70 feet high, comes directly to tho high-water
line, and is covered with trees. Three Indian villages of the Clallums * existed on its
shores in 1852.

Light. — Near the eastern extremity of Ediz hook is a lighthouse, which exhibits a
Jixed white light, visible 12 miles. The tower is square, painted white, rising from
the keeper's dwelling. Its geographical position is lat. 48° 8' 21", long. 128° 24' 7".

Coal of fair quality is reported to have been found within 8 miles of port Angelos.

Captain G. H. Richards, R.N., says — "Ediz hook curves from a high bluff in an
E.N.E. direction for nearly 8 miles, and forms a large and good harbour. On the
north or spit side the water is deep, varying from 15 to 80 fathoms; but southward of
a line drawn through the centre there is excellent anchorage in from 7 to 10 fathoms
in any part of the port. The outer part of the spit is steep and may be closely
rounded, after which the port extends for 2^ miles in a westerly direction, by more
than a mile in breadth. Although open to easterly winds, they do not blow home."

Th« OOA8T. — From the extremity of Ediz hook to the lighthouse on New Dun-
geness the bearing is N.E. by E. and distance 12} miles, being a chord of a large but
not a deep bay. From the Indian lodges abreast the entrance of port Angelos to
Green point the bearing is N.E. by E. J E. and distance 5 miles ; this coast is com-
posed of high sandstone cliffs, mostly bare. With reference to port Angelos, it will be
seen that the cliffs on both sides are for the most part bare of trees, and composed of
white sandstone ; whilst those within the harbour are nearly covered with trees, and
thus form a dark break or interval in the white line of clilf, which is easily distinguished
from seaward. At 2 miles from the lodges there is a break in the cliff, where a small
river or brook finds its way to the beach ; an Indian lodge is close to it. The beach
is mostly shiugle and sand, but at low water the flat portion as well as all the salient
points are found to consist of Boulder stones ; this is particularly tho case at Green
point, where another small stream runs out, and a break in the clifl" affords access to
the country by means of a narrow valley. From Green point to the bight or turn of
the bay, which is marked by another break in the cliff, tho bearing is N.E. by E. J E.
and diiitance 2^ miles; this part of the coast makes a awuop or bend, and is formed of
the same high inaccessible sandstone cliffs, as before described, and it may be remarked
here that they preserve this character all the way to the turn of the Duugcuess cliffs^
and that there is but one break in them.

At high water spring tides, the sea washes tho foot of these cliffs, but as the water
recedes, a road is formed by the ilno sandy beach, which the Indians and wild animals
prefer to forcing their way through tho thick forest above them. At 1^ miles

* The triboH now genermlly but orronoously known by this nnino call theuiBelTes the Nus-klai-
yum ; they occupy tbo American side of tho strait from the O'ko-ho, 18 miles boui Me6-ah bay.

NEW DUNGENESS BAY.

281

N.E. by E. from Green point, and half a mile -from the beach, lies a sunken rock,,
having only 11 feet on it at low water, but 6 to 10 fathoms all round; it ia well marked
by kelp, and only lies in the way of vessels working up under the lee of New Dnnge-
ness. From the before mentioned bight or break in the cliff, the coast runs north-
easterly for 4 1 miles; of this only 2 miles are cliff, for it then makes a sudden bend
to eastward for 2^ miles, forming the base of the long curved Dungeness spit, which
commences at the spot where the cliffs turn, and where they become less steep, and
are clothed with trees. From the termination of the above straight line, the spit
sweeps round, and runs N. 49° E. 1^ miles to the point. The whole of this spit is
composed of shingle and sand, and is very narrow, except at the northern apex of the
interior lake, where the junction of the inner and outer coast lines forms a broader and
higher belt. With this exception, when the tides are high and a strong westerly wind
is blowing, the sea washes over the whole of it, covering its summit with abundance of
drift wood, amongst which are some very large trees.

Within a supposed line connecting Ediz hook and New Dungeness, the soundings
are regular, shoaling from 18 and 25 fathoms to 5 and 8 fathoms, the latter being at
a quarter of a mile from the beach. Outside the line the soundings increase very
gradually to 80 or 90 fathoms, but abreast the turn in the spit the deep water
approaches very close, and continues to do so up to the shoal that runs from the end
of it, as much as 50 fathoms being found at less than one-third of a mile from the
beach.

In easterly winds, anchornge may be had in this bay, but it is too much exposed to
westerly and north-westerly winds to be recommended.

From the extreme end of Dungeness point, a shoal 3xtends in a north-easterly direc-
tion nearly half a mile, having only 2 to 2^ fathoms over it at low water spring tides.
It is narrow, but very steep, the lead falling almost at once from 5 or 6 fathoms just
off its extremity into 20 to 80 fathoms ; therefore, when hauling round the point, be
careful to give this shoal a wide berth, as the tide sets over it with considerable strength,
causing a strong overfall, and in bad weather a very nasty sea.

ITBW sviffOBin>8S BAT. — The spit just described encloses a large space available
for anchorage, where shelter may be found from any winds, from North, round by the
west, to S.E., in from 5 to 10 fathoms, and even with the wind at S.E.; this space is
known as New Dungeness bay. The Inud immediately eastward of the bay around
port Discovery and Protection island prevents any great sea, which is consequently not
felt till the wind gct» about East. The bottom is stiff mud, forming a very tenacious
holding-ground, and there is but little tide. Very good water may be had in a cove at
the bottom of the bay close to the entrance of the lagoon. At low tide, however, the
flat which lills up this bight and extends some distance out is a great hindrance to a
watering-party. When going either up or down the strait. Now Dungeness bay is a
more convenient place to wait for tide or daylight than port Discovery, or the anchorage
under Protection island, as it is more easy of access and egress, and has less depth
of water.

The outside of the spit has been described ; the inside is precisely similar, except
that the beach, which shoula off very gradually, leaves a mud flat, narrow towards the

If-

282

STRAIT OF JUAN DE FUCA.

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point, but gradually widening as it sweeps into the bight of the bay, where it extends
three-quarters of a mile off the shore, and is mostly dry at low water springs, leaving,
howe\er, a very narrow channel into the lagoon. The sonthem part of the spit,
enclosing the lagoon, is of the same character as that outside, but narrower and not so
high. The entrance to the lagoon is narrow and choked with shoals, but at high
water a small vessel may enter, and find sufficient depth within to float her at Uw
water. The southern side of the entrance is formed by two points or spits, the inner
one of which runs out from the east end of the cliff before mentioned, and almost over-
laps the North spit. The outer point is the end of a dpit of shingle which forms the
commencement of the beach that runs to the eastward and makes the coast line in that
direction.

Xiigbt. — There is a lighthouse, coloured black a d white, on the extremity of the
sand-spit. It is 89 feet high, and shows 9. fixed white light at 100 feet above the
sea; visible 14 miles. Its geographical position is lat. 48° 10' 52", long. 123° 6' 81",
and from it Race rocks lighthouse bears West, 18 miles ; Esquimalt harbour light-
house, N.W. by W. i W., 20 miles; Smith island lighthouse, N. 31° E., 18^ miles;
and point Wilson, E. by N., 14J miles.

Upon the outer extremity of the spit a fog-whistle is established, which gives blasts
of 6 and 3 seconds at alternate intervals of 12 and 39 seconds, dnring foggy weather.

Mr. Davidson, U.S. Coast Survey, thus describes New Dungeness bay: — " The shore
from point Angelos gradually curves to the north-eastward, and about 8 or 9 miles
from Ediz hook another long, low, narrow sand-spit, covered with grass, leaves the
bluff shore and stretches in a general N.N.E- direction for 8 J miles, forming the
uorth-western shore of the roadstead of New Dungensss. On the inside, one mile
from the eastern extremity, another narrow sand-spit makes IJ milei southward
towards the mnin shore, forming a large inner shoal bay, with a narrow opening,
through which the water paf?ses, as over a rapid at low tide. Abreast this point is a
small stream, affording an abundance of fresh- water but boats must obtain their supply
at low tide, and come out when the tide has sufficiently risen. The western aide of
this stream is a bluff CO feet high, and upon it is a largo village of the Clallums. The
eastern shore of the stream is low, swampy, and covered with trees and brush. It
forms the southern or main shore of the roadstead, and off it lie extensive mud flats,
which are bare at low water for five-eighths of a mile, and run as far as Washington
harbour. Shoal water exists some distance outside of these flats. Soundings of about
20 fathoms pre found at a quarter of a tuilo southward of the lighthouse, the depth
regularly decreasing across the bay, with a soft, tenacious, muddy bottom. The usual
aud best anchorage is to bring the liglithouso to bear about N. by E. J E., half a mile
distant, when 10 fathoms water are found at one-third of a mile off tho bcacli. With
the lighthouKO bearing N.W. by N. thiee-qnarters of a mile distant, tho same depth
and I'otlom are found. The nearest shore will boar South IJ miles, and tho mud flat
three-quarters of a mile in the fianio direction. A south-cast wind drawing out of tho
strait blows directly into this harbour, but tho bottom will hold any vessel with good
ground tackle. The only difficulty will bo to got tho anchors out of the mud after
riding a couple of days to a gale. In the last position a vessel can readily got under
way and clear tihe point.

fFI

PORT DISCOVERY, &c.

283

A shoal with 2J fathoms makes out from the end of the point for half a milo, and »
heavy tide-rip runs over it at the change of the currents.

Tides. — The approximate corrected establishment is 3h. 3m. ; the mean rise and
fall of tides is about 5 feet."

From New Dungeness harbour the coast trends in an E. by N. direction 14J miles
to "Wilson point on the east side of the entrance to Admiralty inlet, the channel leading
to Puget sound. Within this space are Washingtor and Discovery hai-bours, of which
the latter is the easternmost.

nrasbisstcn Barbotur. — From New Dungeness roadstead to the entrance of this
harbour the immediate shore is low, flat, covered with trees, and bordered by an ex-
tensive mud flat ; but behind it, at a very short distance, rises a level plateau. The
bluff at the N.£. point of the harbour is seen from Dungeness point. The entrance
to the harbour is nearly closed by a low sand spit stretching across it from the east
almost to the west coast, where a nari'ow chan^iel way exits having a depth of 2 fathoms
through it ; this cannot be seen from Dungeness point, which is 6.^ miles from it in a
N.W. direction, on account of the outward curving of the intermediate shore. Inside
of this spit are soundings of 17 fathoms shoaling to 8 fathoms as the head of the har-
bour is approached. The width of the harbour is a little over a mile, and its length
is about 8 miles ; its general direction is S.E. by S. The depth at a mile outside of
the sand spit is 10 to 12 fathoms, deepening rapidly to 80 and 85, with a bottom of
stiff mud. The Indian name of the bay is S'quim, by which it is generally known to
the settlers.

rrotaetlon Island. — The western extremity of this island lies E. I S., distant
7i miles from Dungeness lighthouse, whence it extends If miles N.E. i E. ; it is a
narrow island, curved outward to the strait, and having a low point at each end, with
dhoal water stretching from the western. Its sides are very steep, and about 200
feet high, the seaward part covered with timber, and that towards port Discovery un-
dulating and covered with fern. It lies 2 miles directly off (N.W.) the entrance to
port Discovery. Southward of it is very deep water, but northward or outside it a
line of kelp, about half a mile out, marks the 4-fathom curve, and from this a bank
runs out N.N.W. for 3 miles, having from 5 to 15 fathoms upon it, with a shoal spot
of 8 and 4 fathoms at about 2 miles from the island. Upon tliis bank, named Dallas
bank, is good anchorage with light airs and strong adverse currents; the bottom is
irregular and fulls off" suddenly.

Protection island, with ports Angclos and New Dungeness, affords the first examples
of the peculiar feature of low, sandy, and gravelly points covered with coarse grass and
bushes, making out from the high cliffs, whore tlio tendency of sti'ong currents would
seem to be to cut them .off.

It was called Pi-otectiou island by Vancouver in 1792, and on account of its position
in relation to port Discovery is very aptly named.

70BT siacovEKT. — From Dungeness light the west side of the entrance to port
Discovery, called Challam point, bears E. by S. i S., distant 9 miles. From Wash-
ington harbour the distance is 4. miles ; — the intermediate shore is composed of high
qteep cliffes. Cape George, the eastern point of the eutranco, bears N.E. ^ E. 1^ miles

;

■ 1

281

STRAIT OF JUAN DE FUCA.

'Wit

from Challam point, and is a steep blnff rising directly from the water. The average
width of the bay is nearly If miles for 9 miles of its length, and then decreases rapidly
to the Salmon river at its head. It makes four general courses from the entrance to
the head, as follows: If miles South, 4 miles £. by S. J S., 2^ miles S. by E., and
1| miles S.W. by S. The shores are abrupt, and covered with wood to their edges,
and the projecting parts are all terminated by low points stretching out short distances.
On the second point, on the eastern side, were the remains of an extensive stockaded
village of the Clallums in 1856. Mount Chatham lies off the south-western part of
the bay, and reaches a height of 2100 feet.

When well in this bay Protection island so completely shuts np the entrance as to
make it appear as a large lake. The great drawback to this port is the depth of
water, which in mid-channel is not less in any place than 25 fathoms, and in some ia
40 fa'thoms. Under the second low point on the east side the surveyors could not
find less than 26 fathoms at a few ship's lengths from the beach, but found good
anchorage in 20 fathoms, soft bottom, on the western shore, 2 miles S.S.E. from
Challam point, and abreast of a low swampy beach.

Vancouver says " The projecting points in port Discovery usually acquire a form
somewhat circular, though irregular; and, in general, are nearly steep-to, extending
from the cliffy woodland country, from 100 to 600 yards towards the water's edge, and
are composed of a loose sandy soil. The surface of some was almost entirely occupied
by a lagoon of salt water, or brackish swamp ; others were perfectly dry ; not one of
them produced any trees ; but were mostly covered with a coarse cpiry grass, inter-
spersed with strawberrios, two or three species of clover, samphire, and a great variety
of other small plants, some of which bore very beautiful flowers. On a few of the
points were some shrubs that seemed to thrive excessively, such as roses, a species of
sweet-briar, gooseberries, raspberries, currants, and other small bushes, which in their
respective seasons, produce most probably the several fruits common to this and the
opposite side of America. These all appeared to grow very luxuriantly ; and from the
quantity of blossoms with which they were loaded, there is great reason to believe them
very productive.

We had little trouble in clearing a sufficient space for our encampment, which was
commodiously situated, close to the north side of the stream or brook. In my excursion
np the harbour, I found that it extended about 4 miles from the ship, and then
terminated in a muddy flat across its head, about a quarter of a mile from the shore.
The water, which was 7 fathoms deep close to the flat, gradually deepened to 10, 20,
and no fathoms, good holding ground. On this bank were found some small indifferent
oysters. The shores beyond it are low and thickly wooded, and through them there
appeared to run a very considerable stream of water, with several smaller ones,
emptying themselves into the harbour. The back country had the appearance of a
Bwampy fen for a considerable distance. We landed not far from the largest rivulet,
where we found a deserted village, capable of contaiuiug about 100 inhabitants."

If port Discovery lies under any disadvantage it is its great depth of water ; but the
bottom is excellent holding-ground, and free from rocks. Towards the upper part of
^e harbour it decreases in depth, and there is perhaps not a more eligible spot for

JiM

,Ui,;

PORT DISCOVERY, &o.

285

riding than off the first low sandy point on the western shore, about 4^ miles from the
entrance ; here Yancoaver anchored, and obtained supplies of wood and water. The
conntr; in the neighbourhood of the port is of moderate height, although bounded on
the west side by mountains covered with snow, to which the land from the water's edge
rises, in a i leasing diversity, by hills of gradual ascent. The snow on these hills prob-
ably dissolves as the summer advances, for pine trees are produced on their very
Bummits. On the sea shore the land generally terminates in low sandy cli£fs ; though
in some spaces of considerable extent it runs nearly level from high water mark. There
are few places where the variety and beauty of the flowers are so great as they are
here ; the general character of the soil around this harbour is a thin, black, vegetable
mould, with a substratum of sand and gravel. The vigour and luxuriance of its pro-
ductions prove it to be a rich fertile mould, which might possibly be considerably
improved by the addition of the calcareous matter contained in the marrow-stone that
presents itself in many places. The trees grow so closely, that in some places the woods
are almost impenetrable. The timber consists principally of pine, fir, and spruce. Of
the latter tb > are two species, one of which resembles the hemlock-spruce of the
United States ; it has a very tall growth, and puts out but few*, and those but small,
lateral branches. Some maple-trees grow in the open ground and on the banks, but
they are too small to be of uuy service to the settler.

Port Discovery was visited in 1841, by Com. Wilkes, U.S. Navy, who rrmarks: —
" After passing Protection island, an extensive bay opened, on the hliores of
which we saw the long poles mentioned by Vancouver, and represented in his book.
The use of these he was unable to discover, but the Indians informed us that they were
for the purpose of suspending nets for taking the wild-fowl that frequent these shores in
great numbers.

The description of Vancouver is so exactly applicable to the present state of this
port, that it was difiicult to believe that almost half a century had elapsed since it was
written. The beautiful woods and lawns of Protection island, in particular, exist un-
changed. The lawns still produce the same beautiful flowers and shrubs, and though
closely surrounded by dense woods, do not seem to have been encroached upon by their
luxuriant growth, although there is no apparent reason why it should not, long ere this,
have overran them.

The name of port Discovery was given by Vancouver. Protection island covers it
completely to the north, and would render it easily defensive against the most for-
midable attack. The only objection to it as a harbour is the great depth of the
water, which in the middle is nowhere less than 40 or 50 fathoms, and is often as much
as 16 fathoms close to the shore.

rotnt Wilson and zaght. — At about 6 miles eastward from port Discovery is point
Wilson, the western point of the entrance to Admiralty inlet. From Dungeness light
it bears E. by N., distant nearly 15 miles, this course passing over the outer edge of
the 8-fathom shoal (Dallas bank) off Protection island. The extremity of the point is
composed of low sandy hillocks, covered with coarse grass ; but west of it the hill rises
200 or 800 feet, and again fulls inshore.

The lighthouse, painted white, on the point, exhibits a fixed white light, at 53 feet

286

STRAIT OF JUAN DE FUCA.

above the sea, visible 12 miles. A fog-\vhistle gives blasts of 8 seconds duration at In-
tervals of 52 seconds. The geographical position of the lighthouse is lat. 48° 8' 41",
long. 122" 45' 5".

Between point Wilson and port Discovery the shore is high, with steep yellow cliffs^
and abont mfidway a sliifjhtly projecting angle is formed, called Middle point. To the
north-west oi the point 15 fathoms can be obtained a mile from the shore, but the
water shoals suddenly, and when running in a fog the lead must be kept going. Off
the eastern end of the point 20 fathoms can be got at a ship's length from shore.
During ebb tides a very strong eddy current sets to the eastward along shore between
port Discovery and point Wilson. The surveyors state that " in 1855, when coming
out of the inlet on the large ebb, with scarcely any wind, we kept outside of the rip
showing the line of the eddy. A vessel 2 or 3 miles ahead was in the eddy at the same
time. We were carried past Protection island, but she was drifted back to po-.us
Wilson. The Indians when bound to Dungeness keep well out in the ebb."

The country between ports Discovery and Townshend, of which pofnt Wilson is the
northern extremity, consists of a peninsula 8 miles in breadth and 10 miles in length,
offering great advantages as a location for a town. It is known as Quimper peninsula.

NORTH SHORE OF THE STRAIT TO CHATHAM ISLANDS.

From point Bonilla to Owen point, the western head of the entrance to San Juan
bay, the shore runs 13 miles in an E. ^ N. direction. It is nearly straight, rocky, and
bluff, with high mountains rising immediately behind it, and all heavily wooded. A
depth of 10 to 20 fathoms is found within half a mile of the shore. Vessels are apt to
lose much of the wind when close under either shore of the strait, and at present it is
impossible to say where the strongest currents run.

8AIV TUAit BAT. — This is the first bay on the north side of Juan de Fuca strait
eastward of Bonilla point. It is a good roadstead with all winds from the land, but
not with those from south-westward as it k quite exposed to that quarter, and whan the
wind blows with any strength in the offing a heavy sea is sent in. Although the swell
can generally be avoided to some extent by anchoring well within the bay, at a moderate
distance from either side, it is not considered advisable to remain when there is an in-
dication of the wind veering to the south-westward, but to weigh immediately and seek
shelter either in Nee-ah harbour or in some convenient bay within the strait. Nee-ah
harbour bears S. by W. lOJ miles from this bay.

Port San Juan can be recognised from a considerable distance, in consequence of the
opening making as a deep {^ap between two mountain ranges.* From the lighthouse
on Tatoosh island (cape Classct), the entrance bears N.N.E. i E. The light is visible
from the anchorage, and is of service to vessels entering or leaving the bay.

• Mr, Davidson, U.S. Coast Survey, saya " Tlio sides of port San Juan are steep, high, and
backed by heavily timbered billH and mountains. At a distance in very clear woatlier it is difficult
to distinguish the entrance unless one is acquainted with the locality, but in moderately hazy
weather the indentation is readily made out. When steering up tho bay a mid- channel oourso
uloars everything well."

9rm

SAN JUAN BAY, Ac.

287

■Jj

The Kest polut of port SaQ Juan is knowu ss point Owen. It has eome rocks aboat
it. and a low flat ruck, named Owen island, lies off it at rather more than a cable's
length ; this island is awash at high water, and at a very short distance from its south
side is a depth of 8 fathoms. "Within the bay, on the west side, are other rocks and
broken ground to the distance of about a mile from Owen island ; and extending ont
2 cables from shore. The outermost of the rocks is a small patch awash at low tide
situated N.E. ^ E., 4 cables from Owen island, and as much as 2} cables from shore ;
as there is a depth of 4 fathoms, rapidly deepening to 6 and 7 fathoms, close to this rock,
it requires some care to avoid.

The east point of port San Juan is about 1^ miles E. i N. from the west point, and
is readily known by the Observatory rocks (some high pinnacles having a few trees
growing on them, and about and around which are other rocks) a short distance off it.
At nearly half a mile northward from these rucks, and on the same side of the bay, a
reef, partly above water and named Hammond ro-*.ks, extends out from the shore
li cables.

From the entrance the bay rzns nearly 8*^ miles in a N.E. by N. direction, and
maintains throughout a bi'eadth of 1^ miles. Its head consists of a beach of muddy
sand, at the north end of which is Gordon river, and at the southern end Cooper inlet ;
tbeee streams are sufficiently deep at high water to permit the entrance of vessels of
light draught. On the south bank of the river Gordon is an Indian village named
Onismah.

The soundings at the entrance to port San Juan, midway between Owen island and
Observatory rocbs, are 13 to 11 fathoms. From this depth they gradually decrease
towards its head, where at one-third of a mile from the beach is a depth of 14 to 17
feet ; in this latter part the sea breaks during heavy gales. A swell usually prevails
in the entrance. Throughout the bay the bottom consists of fine muddy sand.

The nsual place of anchorage is in 7 to G fathoms at about 1^ miles from the head
of the bay, with Owen island bearing S.W. and Adze head (the second projecting point
of the east shore, from Hammond reef) E.S.E.

The approximate geographical positior of Observatory rocks is lat. 48° dl' 80",
long. 124" 28' 15".

Tii« COAST. — From port San Juan the shore of Vancouver island trends East 24
miles to Sherringhau poiot, and presents no very remarkable features ; the country is
thickly wooded, and the land rises to a considerable elevation. At 8 miles eastward of
port San Juan is Providence cove, a small inlet only fit for boats ; rod at the distance
of 7 miles farther eastward, in a small bight, is a stream nan^c'. riombrio river. The
river Jordan, a considerable stream, is 18^ miles eastwari from port San Juan, and
Bi miles westward from Sherringham point. The sor.ndings off this coast so far as
Sombrio river are deep and not very regular, being from 10 to 20 fathoms at a mile
from the shore, then suddenly dropping into 50 and 60 fathoms. Between Sombrio
river and the river Jordan the depth is 7 to 10 fathoms at a mile from the land ; off the
latter river the depth of 1*^ ^«*'ioms extends farther out than 2 miles. At a mile
southward from Sherringham point are soundings of 40 to 50 fathoms.

Eastward of Sherringham point the shore curves a little to the northward, and at a

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STRAIT OF JUAN DE FUCA.

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distance of 4i miles in an E. i N. direction is Otter point. From Otter point the
entrance to Sooke inlei is E. by N. ^ N., distant 3i miles, the intervening coast form-
ing rather a deep indentation named Sooke bay, in which vessels may anchor in fine
weather at rather more than half a mile from the shore in 8 fathoms. Generally speak-
ing the projecting points on the north aide of the strait are not remarkable nor easily
distinguished unless viewed from close in shore ; some of their extremes are partially
bare of trees. Vessels running or working up the strait at night should be careful not
to get so near the north shore as to shut in Race island light by Beechey head.

800KB IWX.BT.— /This is a narrow channel, 8^ miles long, leading into a wide
basin 2 miles in extent, which is perfectly landlocked, and has a depth of 10 to 15
fathoms. The inlet is difficult to navigate, on account of its winding direction. On
its northern side the water is shallow, and sends oflf several spits of shingle, one of
which joins Whiffin island, so that the entrance is limited to a few yards in width.
The depth is from 8 to 9 fathoms, and the course in is along the eastern shore ; but
such is the strength of the tides, and the intricacy of the channel, that it is recommended
not to attempt to enter without a pilot.

Vessels may anchor in 10 fathoms at half a mile outside the entrance of Sooke inlet,
and, if necessary for shelter, may with a fair wind run inside Whiffin island, where
there is sufficient space to anchor.

Whiffin island is low, gravelly, and as already noticed is always connected with the
western shore of the inlet. Its eastern point (bearing N.N.E. distai ihioe-quarters of
a mile from the centre, between the two entrance points) must bu rounded close,
leaving it on the port band, as a reef lies only half a cable eastward from it. On
rounding the point dror i,he anchor at a cable's length within in 8 fathoms ; here there
is a space of dfeep water 2 cables in extent.

From the depth of 10 fathoms outside the er Lrance to Sooke inlet a high hill on the
eastern side of the inlet, namRd moun^ Maguire, will bear about N.E. It is partially
covered with trees, but the bare rock sho\'8 distinctly in many places, and this feature
now commences to distinguish the south-e ist part of Vancouver island. The shore in
many places is bare and rocky, with patch js of land covered with fern and d«8titute of
trees, and the houses of settlers begin to appear.

Baorotary Zaland -Ou the easiorn side of Sooke inlet, and at IJ cables from the
coast, is Secretary island, a small, but bold rocky islet, separated from the shore by
soundings of 15 to 10 fathomn. Itn approximate geographical position is lat.
48" 19' 85", long. 123° 4lV 40".* The depth at H niiles southward of it is 80 to UO
fathoms.

B«ch«r Bay. — From Secretary island to Beechey head, the west point of entrance
to Becher bay, tho distance is 2i miios in an E. \ H. direction. Tiie shore between is
bold and steep, and lias deep water almost close to it. Tho head, a bold wooded cliff,
baa soundings of 4U to CO fathoms immodiatoly off it ; around it tho currents have very
groat strength, hence t»i;.io tl;an ordinary care is required when socking anchorage in

* Dupendent upon Diiutzu htad, Kaquimalt harbour, being in long. 128* 2C' -IC"
name of the inlet ii T'lok.

The ludiau

) "3

BECHER BAY, kc.

289

Becher bay.t When bouu'l eastward through the strait, the land about this headland
should have a berth of 2 miles if it is intended to pass southward of Race islands. The
approximate geographical position of the head is lat. 48' 18' 30", long. 128° 89' 27".=!=

Becher bay has an extent of 1 i miles. Its east point, cape Church, is distant from
Beechey head 2j miles in an E. by N. ^ N. direction. The bay, as an anchorage,
cannot be recommended, as it is open and exposed to the full force of southerly winds.
About and around it arc liigh rocVy hills, and even in fine weather inconvenience is
occasioned by the strong gusts which descend from the mountains ; vessels bound west-
ward through the strait and meeting with a southerly wind are therefore recommended
to seek in preference the anchorage in Parry bay, as they wi.'l then be sheltered from
heavy seas by Race islands.

Off cape Church are three rocky islets, of which the outermost boars tho name of
Church island ; this has a depth of 9 fathoms close to it, rapidly deepening to 2r) and 40
fathoms, the latter being at about one-third of a mile from it. Westward of these, and
on the eastern side of the bay, are several small woodod islands, called the Bedford
islands. Within the bay are Frazer and Wolfe islands, with some small islets about
them ; the easternnost and largest island is that named Frazer, — the westernmost is
Wolfe island. Some small islets also lie in tho eastern part of the bay, close to the
shore.

The depth a', the entrance to Beci'or bay, midway between Bedford islands and the
western shore, is 50 to 40 fathoms on i rocky ond irregular bottom ; thence it gradually
decreases to 9 and 6 fathoms at its hcsA. The passage in is between Frazer and
Wolfe islands and is 4 i-ablos wide. From these islands the course to tho anchorage is
north-easterly about thrtp(|uarter8 of a mile. The usual place of anchorage is at
about a quarter of a milo N.N.E. from the centre of Frazer island in 10 fathoms water.

Bentlnek Island. — From Becher bay to Bontinck island, oft" tho south-easternmost
part of Vancouver island, the coast trends irregularly 2i miles. This island is rather
more than half a mile in extent, is about 100 feet high, and, like tho adjacent land,
covered with pine trees ; its southern and eastern side;! are fringed with kelp, outside
of which it is believed there are no sunken dangers. Its shape is very irregular, as it
is almost divided in the middle.

The na 'row channel between lieutinck island and the shore is so thickly strewn with
rocks as to be scarcely navigable ; it is however sometimes traversed by boats. Coasters
who are well acquainted with the locality occasionally anrho?- in the eastern entrance
ti this channel, and obtain shelter from southerly winds. Tho currents hereabout have
;jreat strength, and also run tlirough the passage with C()nsidoi'al)l() velocity.

Rao* Islaads and Littht, — These are a duster of low rooky islets, situated a short
distance south-eastward of Beiitinck island. The outermost end largest islet is 6 miles
E. by N. from Beechey head, and one mile S.E. from Beutiuck island. Tho extent of

+ " Tho currents pn bv Boetihry lieod with a rnsh. In tliin vicinity, we rooolleot tlio instance of a
United Htntos revenue cuttor strikiiia tl;.- bold jiioro witli licv tlying jll)-bn«m, and only striking lier
forefoot after tlic jib-boom lind l)een carried away." Mr. Davidroii, U.H. Coast 8urv«y.

* See note at foot of pa^e 'ISis,

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STRAIT OF JUAN DE FUCA.

the group is rather more than half a milo north and south, and the same east and west,
and all the islets are bare of trees or bushes. The bottom for about half a railo
from them in a south-easterly direction is irregular, with points of rock in 5 fathoms.
The tides among them run '.rom 3 to G knots per hour, and during had weather heavy
and dangerous races occur. In light winds the islands should have a good berth,
especially when eastward of them, as the ebb sets strongly towards them.

The outermost, or Great Race islet, is 1^ cables in extent, and 25 feet high. It
should always have a berth given to it of about a mile, at which distance is a depth of
from 40 to 60 fathoms; it may, however, be rounded at a less distance, the outermost
danger from it, the Rosedale rock, 5 feet under water, being nearly half a milo from it
in a S.E. by E. direction.

The lighthouse on the Great Race islet consists of a stone tower, painted with alter-
nate horizontal black and white bauds. It exhibits at 118 feet above the sea, a light
flmlwKj every 10 secniuh, visible 18 miles. Its appiw,; u.iite geographical position is
lat. 48° 17' 30", long. 123' 32' 15". From it, the iig' t it Esquimalt harbour bears
North, distant 8 J miles ; entrance to Victoria harbour N. by E. J E., 9 miles ; Dis-
covery island N.E. by N., 15 miles ; Smith island light N.E. by E. J E., 26^ miles ;
and New Dungoiioas light East, 18 miles. Attached to the lighthouse is a fog-bell.

The channel between Bertimk inland and Race islets is nearly half a mile wide, and
with the exception of some rocks (covered at high water) at a cable westward of the
north islet, is believed to be free from (huigtr ; its least depth is 14 fathoms. Thia
passage may be taken by a steamer ; but it is not recommended for a sailing vessel under
ordinary circumstances, on account of the strength of the tides, and races caused by
the irregular rocky bottom. The course through is N.N.E. and S.S.W.

Fedder Bay. — Immediately northward of Bentinck island is Pedder bay, an inlet
having an extent of nearly 2 miles in a W.N.W. direction. It is about three-quarters of
a mile wide et the entrance, where is a depth of 18 to 7 fathoms, and decreases rapidly
in width and depth toward? its head ; its western part is consequently only available
for vessels of ligiit draught. As thia bay is quite exposed to easterly winds, it should
only be frequented when the wind is from southward and westward ; it is a convenient
stopping place for awaiting the tui'n of the tide off Race islotn.

The usual place of autliorugo is in 7 fathoms with cape Calvor, tlio soutli point of
the bay, bearing B.E. by S., distant about half a milo. The holding ground is good.
Close to the cape is a small patch of 8 fathoms.

In the narrow part of the bay is a depth of 4 to 2 fathoms, 'and this gradually
decreases to 7 feet, at its head. The upper part of tho bay is therefore rarely visited
except by boats.

rarry Bay. — Immediately northward of William head, the north point of Pedder
bay, is Parry bay, an open roadstead facing the oast. Its north point, Albert head, in
moderately high and slopes to the sea, it is also bare of trees at its extremity, but
wooded immediately behind ; at i» cable from it is a reef. William head somewhat
fesemhles it, but is lower. The depth off these lioadlandH is too groat for anchorage.

Till' HoiindingB in Parry bay grndunlly decr'^ase from 20 fiithoms at three-quartprs ot
a mile from the shore, to G and 5 fathoms at 1^ cables from the beach. The usual

i4'

ESQUIMALT HARJ30U11.

'2!)t

anchorage is in 9 fathoms with Willifttn heail bearing S.W. by S., distant from half to
three-quarters of a milo. With a south-easterly wind there is ample room to get under
way, which a vessel should imiuodiately do, and if not able to round Race islands, and
proceed to sea, should run for Esquimalt harbour.

The shelter in Parij bay is from westerly winds, and the ground holds well. All
winds from eastward, between North and S.E., blow directly in.

E8Qvz»iAT.T HASBOUR. — From Albert head the coast trends northward nearly
8 miles to Esquimalt harbour, the space between forming what is known as Royal
roads. Here vessels may anchor in 10 to 12 fathoms, at about three-quarters of ii
milo fromtho shore, and find good shelter from all winds except those from eastward
and south-eastward. A berth that is recommended is at about a milo S.S.E. \ E. from
Fisgard light, as the harbour will then bo open and can bo entered if necessary.

XJjSbt. — The lighthouse on Fisgard island, on the western side of entrance to Esqui-
malt harbour, shows & Jived light at G5 feet above the sea, visible 10 miles. The light
shows white between the bearings from it of S. \ E., easterly, to S.E. by E. i E., and
red from S.E. by E. ^ E. easterly and northerly to N. by W. 3 W. ; hence when
approaching tho harbour a vessel is in safety so long as the white light is visible.

" Esquimalt harbour* is a safe and excellent anchorage for ships of any size, and
with the aid of the light on Fisgard island may bo entered at all times with great
facility. The entrance, which bears North 8,J miles from tho lighthouse on Groat
Race island, is between Fisgard island and Duntzo head, and is 3 cables in breadth,
opening out immediately within.

Tho only dangers are the Scrogg rocks which lie on tho eastern aide, S.S.E. 8 cables
from Duntze head, and cover at three-quarters flood. Inskip islands kept well open of
tho head leads cloar to the westward of them, but tho best murk for entering with a
leading wind is Thetis cottage, a conspicuous white building on Dyke point, just open
of tho western Inskip rock, bearing N. by W. ^ W., which leads in niid-chanuol.

Fisgard island should not be passed within a less distance than one cable, keeping just
without the kelp, which extends about half a cable eastward of it, for a rock with 7 feet
water over it lies three-quarters of a cable north-east of the liglithouse.

Vessels entering tho harbour at night with a strong wind after tlicm should take care
to shorten sail in time, as tho space for rounding to is somewhat limited ; and it is
desirable to moor if any stay is intended, as the winds are changeable.

Tho best time to leave the harbour is oarly in tho morning, when either a calm or
lig''it laud wind may be expected ; there is little strength of tide in tho harbour, or for
•OLIO distanco without, and it sets fairly in and out.

Tiio strongest and most frequent glllo^^ Mow from S.W. and S.E. which iiro l(>ading
winds in, but rarely from N.VV. Tiie S.W. is a summer wind, generally fiosli, and
brings fine v/eather, unless it blows a galo. S.E. winds may be looked f(>r during tho
winter months, or between November and March, and generally a strong galo once io

• The in8truotinn8 for EHiiuiiiuilt ami Viotoria ImrbourB and the coiiBt to Cliatlmm JBlaiid* aie
from lliu Vauouvur hlaud I'llot, ISUI.

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292

STRAIT OF JUAN DE FUCA.

a Kiouth with rain and thick weather. The N.E. wind rarely blows with much strength,
and always brings line clear weather ; a direct South wind, to which some parts of the
harUor.r are open, seldom blows, and there is never sufficient swell to render the anchor-
age inconvenient.

Whale Uoelc. — The Whale rock, with only 7 feet on it at low water, lies W. ^ N.,
2 cables from Inskip ielau.^s, or nearly midway between them and the western shore of
the harbour. This rock is of sninll extent, and not marked by kelp ; it has a clear
passage on either side, that to the eastward being the widest. Yew and Rodd points,
just touching, point to the rock ; Yew point, just touching the lighthouse on Fisgard
island, S. by E. ^ E., leads nearly a cable westward ; and when Ashe head is well
shut in by Inskip islands, a vessel will bo clear to the northward.

Anchorage. — The most convenient anchorago is in Constance cove,* on the eastern
side of the harbour, immediately round Duntze head, the general depth being 6 fathoms,
and the holding ground good ; there is, however, safe anchorage in any part of the
harbour, in not less than 4^ fathoms, as far noi-thward as Dyke poin*. About a cable
above this point the water shoals to 8 fathoms, and thence to the head of the harbour
is a flat with only a few foet on it at low water.

Thetis cove in Plumper bay, on the eastern side, immediately north of Constance
cove, is a snug anchorage, with the harbour entrance just shut in by Inskip rocks, in
4i fathoms ; but vessels proceeding above these dangers must take care to avoid the
Whale rock.

Water may be obtained during the winter months without difficulty from the many
streams that empty tbeniaolves into the different bays, caused by the great quantity of
rain which usually falls at that season ; but in summer watering is a tedious process,
and boats must be sent either to Rowe stream, at the head of the harbour, or to the
salt lagoon just outside the entrance. Both offer difficulties unless at or near high
water.

Water, however, might bo conveyed at all seasons, and at a tiifling expense, from
the chain of lakes just over tho western side of the liarbonr, near Colwood farm.

vzcaORlAHABBOUR is a little more than 2 miles ouHtward of Esquimalt, with its
entrance between Ogdon and Macliaughliu points. Macanlay or Sailor point, a re-
markable projection nearly midway botwoeu tlie two harbours, is a bare flat jtoiiit about
bO feet high, showing as a yellow clay clitT, worn by the action of the seu and weather
into a rounded nob at the extreme. Tho coast on either hide of this point for a mile
is fringed with sunken rocks, and is dangerous for boati in bad weather, many fatal
accidents having occurred.

The entrance to this harbour is phoni, nnrrfiw, and intricate, and with S.W. or S.E.
gales a heavy rolling swell sots on the < oast, wliiijh r(;uderH the anchorag*- outside un-
safe, while vessels of burthen CBuuol run iu for siielter unless at rr ncur b^h water.
Vessels drawing 14 or 15 feet water may, no<i«r ordiowy eirc.iniw'unces, enter at such
times of tide, and ships druwing 17 fttt Lave entertd, though only at be top of
spiing tides.

• The space west of Thclin iiland, on t.li« southefn dlde of Consttae* ooTe, hfti be«n euelOKd by
k doable row of piles, to mark the site ut' ilic dock in course uf ooiietrnution (1ID78).

VICTORIA HAUBOUR,

298

The channel is buoyed, ■^ but it is necessary to take a pilot, and the space is so con-
fined and tortuous that a long ship has considerable ditUculty in making the necessary
turn ; a Inrge per-centage of vessei^s entering the port, small as :vell as large, constantly
run aground from tiiese causes, or aom trying to enter at an improper time of tide, or
neglecting to take a pilot. Such accidents, however, are seldom attended with mora
than delay and inconvenience, as the shoalest and most intricate part of the passage is
sheltered ; when within, the port is perfectly land-locked, and vessels may lie in 14 to
18 feet at low water, but the harbour accommodation is limited.

Light. — h. fixed blue light is exhibited on Bercns island, on the west side of the
entrance ; it is 44 feet above high water, and visible 6 miles. Position, lat. 48° 25' 20",
long. 123° 24'.

Doubtless Victoria harbour is susceptible of improvement by artificial means, though
it is improbable that it can ever be made a safe and convenient port of entry for vessels
of even moderate tonnage, at all times of tide and v«'eather, and it appears not a little
remarkable that with the excellent harbour of Esquimalt within 2 miles, Victoria
should have been continued as the commercial port of a rising colony, whose interests
cannot but suffer materially from the risks and delays which shipping must encounter
in approaching the commercial capital.

Victoria is a free port, the government site, and the largest and most important town
in these colonies. It enjoys a considerable foreign and coasting trade, which is annually
increasing. The resident population is upwards of 7000, and the town has made great
progress since 1858, when it may be said to have sprung into existence ; it now covers
a large extent of ground, substantial and handsomo sione and brick buildings every-
where replacing the wooden structures first erected.

Along the eastern side of the harbour in front of the town there are about 100 yards
of fair wharfage, with a depth of 10 to 10 feet at low water spring tides. Between
Songhiesf and Limit points, on the opposite side of the harbour, is a small slip capable
of receiving vessels of about 200 tons burthen ; larger ve^sils, however, may heave
down alongside the wharves.

Supplies. — Provisions of all kindr, nnd of an excellent quality, ma> be procured at
nearly the same prices as in England, and water is to be had from a floating tank
capable of going outside the harbour, the charge for it being about 4s. 2d. per ton.
Supplies for refitting and repairing vessels, except timber, are scarce and expensive,
but of fair quality. Coals arc plentiful, varying in price from 25 to 40 shillings
per ton.

Aiwlmrat/e. — Vessels anchoring oiilsuio the harbour to wait for tliu tiuo, ui woui
other causes, should not come within a line bctwoou Ogdon and MacLfuighliu points,

• The oiilranoe to Viotori* liivrboiir is miirk»vl by hUick baoya on Urn southern side nml red buoyg
on tlip northern Kuio.

'I'iio buoys iniirkiiiH the northern ed^fi of thi- sboal fixtcmliny froin Shoiil point iind Chnnnoi rock
(lying 100 yanls south west of I'flly UHiuV) an- of a i>'jnimiil'it *\ia\ie, Hurinou'itfil by ii hall. Th«
buoy formerly markin;; the position of M.'«'|H.'r rock bus boon uniovi'd (1878).

t nea*tr Rock, lying E. by 8. ft-oia Swighics point, diitt-uit 150 yarde, is in process of ronioval
(187B).

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204

STRAIT OF JUAN DE FUCA.

the former being W. i N., the. latter E. ^ S., midway between, or a quarter of a mile
I'rom cither ; this is a good stopping place with off-shore winds or fine weather, but is
by no means recommended as a safe anchorage for sailing vessels during the winter
months, when bad weather may be looked for with little warning.

i'/7o/s.— There are three or four pilots attached to the port, who keep a good look-
out for vessels off the entrance. Pilotage is compulsory to all merchant vessels, except
coasters, but the charges are moderate.

Brotchytedge. — About 4 cables from Holland point, and right in the fairway of
vessels entering Victr ria harbour from the eastward, lies the Brotchy ledge with 5 feet
on its shoalfist part ; it is covered with kelp, and about a cable in extent within the
fi-fathom line. There are 9 fathoms between the ledge and the shore.

A conical red bell-buoy is moored 1^ cables S.W. of the 5-foot spot.

Fisgard island lighthouse, the north part of Brothers island, and Macaulay point
in line W. \ N., leads a cable north of the ledge in 9 fathoms, between it and the
shore; and the lighthouse, just open southward of Brothers island W. by N. J N.,
leads 2 cables south of the ledge in 21 fathoms.*

Oenerai Bemarks. — After rounding Race island lighthouse at the distance of a mile,
the course for Esquimalt harbour is N. ^ W. 8^ miles. The lighthouse on Fisgai'd
island is very conspicuous, and will be seen immediately on rounding the Race islands ;
a course direct for it will clear all dangers, but attention must be paid to the set of the
tides. The ebb runs almost directly from the Ilaro and neighbouring straits towards
the Race islands, and a sailing vessel unless with a commanding wind should give them
a berth of more tliiui a mile, and steer N.E. by N. for 3 or 4 miles, before she bears
up for the harbour ; the tlood sets in the opposite direction to the N.E., and with light
winds vjsscls are liable to be carried to the eastward, and if near to the Vancouver
island uhore, up Haro clmunel, whore the water is generally too deep for anchorage ;
therefo 'o with the flood the coast of Piury bay should be kept aboard if possible, where
good aLchorage may be had in moderate weather and with all westerly winds, less than
a mile from the shore iu 10 fathoms.

By night, when Fisgard island light bears N. by W., a vessel may steer boldly for
it. The only precaution necessary is to keep the white light iu full view; if it becomes
dim or shaded, she is getting too near the shore, and should immediately haul out to the
eastwai'd until it is again distinctly seen ; the two lights by their bearings will imme-
diately show a vessel how she is being alVoeted by the tides.

Entering Esquimalt luubour, the Fisgard island light should be left from 1 to 2 cables
on the port hand ; when it bears N.W. by W. \ W. the light changes from white to
red, and shows the latter colour within the harbour ; and wheu it bears S. by W. at a
convenient distance, a vossol may anchor in 7 fathoms, or stand into Constance cove if
prol'crred. The Scrogg rocks on the eastern side of the entrance of the harbour must
be avoided; they bear E.S.E from Fisgard island distant nearly 4 cables. If not
desiring to cuter the harbour at night, good anchorage may bo had in Royal roads in
9 fathoms ; Fisgard island light beaiiug N. by W. from half a mile to a mile.

* The beaoouR on Dcacou bill, t'onuorly used aa donring murkB fur Brotoliy Icdgo, lisve been

rtjRioYCd (1878).

TRIAL ISLANDS, &c.

2<J5

The entrance to \ictoria hi>rbour b^ing only 2 miles eastward of Esquiiualt, thesama
precautions are necessary as regards the tides. Tho course from a mile otl' the Race
islands is N. i E. ; during day-time Christ church, a couspicuoaa white building with a
spire, and standing on an eminence, will be seen shortly after rounding these islauJfl,
bearing N. by E. ; it should be kept just on the starboard bow. At night or during
bad weather it is strdngly recommended not to run for this harbour, as it can only be
entered at certain stages of the tide, and the anchorage outside is at such times exposed
and unsafe, while Royal bay or Esquimalt harbour is always available and safe ; but if
it is decided to run for Victoria, it must be borue in mind that when Fisgard island light
changes from white to red, a vessel will be very near the shore.

Tbe Coast. — The coast from Victoria harbour trends in an easterly direction for
2 miles to Clover point, and is for the most part faced by white sandy cliffs, varying in
height from 10 to 80 feet ; a sandy beach extends along the whole way, and at a cable
off in many places are rocks and foul ground. At 2 cables east of Holland point, and
a cable off shore, are the Glimpse reefs, which cover at three-quarters flood, and have
7 fathoms just outside them.

Beacoft hill, a gentle rise of the land, 2 cables from the water's edge and a mile east
of the harbour, is grassy and bare of trees ; its height is 1^0 feet.

Clover point, at 2 miles eastward of the entrance to Victoria harbour, is low, bare of
trees, and projecting ; it is steep-to, and off it are some strong tide rips, dangerous to
boats in heavy weather. Ross bay, eastward of it, is open, but sometimes used by
small craft if waiting for the tide, — there being 4 to 5 fathoms water at 2 cables off
bhore.

Foul bay, nearly a mile north-east of Clover point, is of small extent and filled with
rocks. Off its entrance are the Templar rocks, about 4 feet under water, and marked
by kelp.

Foul point on the east side of tho bay is rocky, but has not less than 4 fathoms at a
cable's distance ; the laud at the back of tho point rises to a height of 230 feet, form-
ing a rocky riJge or summit, known as Gonzales hill.

Trial Islands. — Those are situated nearly IJ miles eastward from Clover point, on the
south sideof Knterprizo channel; they are two in number, bare and rocky, but generally
appear as one. Tho south or largest island is 80 feet high, and steep-to at its outer
end ; the northern one is low, and from it foul ground oxtouds some distance. Strong
tide ripples prevail off the southern island, especially during the flood, which runs
nearly knots at springs just outside it.

Bntorrriaso Channel, between Trial islands and tho Vancouver shore, is a narrow,
tortuous, but deep channel, umch used by steaniors and coasters trading to Victoria
harbour, as a slight saving of distance is effected, and less tide experienced than by
going south of the Trial islands ; its length is about a mile, its width in tho narrowest
place half a cable, and there are not loss than 24 feet in the shoalost part.

^fc^'eil 11(11/, on the north side of the channel to the eastward of Foul point, is
upwards of cables in extent, with from 2 to fathoms water ; it is open to the south-
ward, and foul ground exists in its east part, but the bay is much used by small vossela
waiting for the tide.

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293

STRAIT OF JUAN DE FUCA.

Mouatt Reef, in the eastern part of the channel, 8 cables from Trial island, and
nearly 2 cables oflf shore, is about a cable in extent, and covers at a quarter-flood ; this
rock is dangerous for vessels using the Ente/prize channel, as it lies north of the
fairway.

Brodie Reef, with 3 fathoms on its shoalest part, lies nearly one mile N.E. \ N.
from the summit of Trial island ; it should be carefully avoided by vessels using
Enterprize or Mayor channels.

Oonsaies Point forms the south-east extremity of Vancouver island. It is a low
salient point, rocky, bare of trees, and steep-to on the east side.

o<ot Bay. — From Gonzales point, the Vancouver shore trends northward, and at a
mil. :'rom the point forms a sandy bay which is somewhat less than a mile in extent,
and affords fair anchorage near its north part in 8 to 4 fathoms.

The best anchorage is northward of Mary Todd islet, in the south part of the bay.
This islc't is bare, and about 80 feet high ; at 2 cables east of it is Emily rock, 4 feet
above high water, and the same distance t juth of it is Bobson roef, which uncovers
at low water.

Cadboro Bay, 2:^ miles northward of Gonzales point, is about half a mile in extent,
and open to the south-eastward ; no sea, however, rises within it, and there is good
anchorage in 8 to 4 fathoms near the entrance.

The shore from Gonzales point to this bay is low and lightly timbered with dwarf
oak and pine trees ; northward of Oak bay it is clear of danger at a cable's distance.

BKayor Channel, northward of Gonzales point, and west of Chain islets, is about
2 miles long in a northerly direction ; its breadth in the narrowest part is 8 cables,
and the soundinga in it vary from 9 to 13 fathoms. The channel is bounded on the
west side by Thames shoal and Fiddle reef, and abreast the latter on its opposite
side lies Lewis reef. The tide seldom runs more than 8 knots through this channel,
and it is the one generally used.

Thames Shoal, of 2 fathoms water, is of small extent, and marked by kelp; it lies
nearly half a mile N. by E. from Gonzales point, at the south-west part of the Mayor
channel. Channel point in line with the west side of Great Chain islet, N. by E. ^ E,,
leads a cable east of this shoal, and the highest part of Trial island in line with Gon-
zales point S. f W., leads half a cable west.

Lee Rock, which only uncovers at low water springs, lies li cables westward of
Thames shoal ; it is marked by kelp and stecp-to on the cast side. Between this rock
and Thames shoal is Mouatt channel, a cable wide, with 7 to 9 fathoms water.

The highest part of Trial island in line with Gonzales point, S. ^ W., leads midway
between Thames shoal and Lee rock ; also through the fairway of the north part of
Mayor channel between Fiddle and Lewis reefs.

Fiddle liccf, at the north-west extreme of Mayor channel, and upwards of a niiio
from Gonzales point, is of small extent, and awash at high water spring tides; it may
be approached close-to on the cast side.

Todd Rode, at 2 cables west of Fiddle reef, in the outrauco to Oak bay, covers at
two-thirds flood, and is marked by kelp.

Lewis Reef, at tlic north-east part of Mayor channel, nearly !) cables south-east of

'' l\

DISCOVEIIY AND CHATHAM ISLANDS.

297

Fiddle reef, and 2 cables west of the Chain islets, covers at high water, and may bo
approached close-to on the west side. The passage between it and the Chain islets is
filled with kelp, but has not less than 2 fathoms.

Ctaain Xsleu, midway between Discovery island and the Vancouver siiore, are a. bare
rocky group, three-quarters of a mile long in a westerly direction, and half a mile wide.
The largest, called Great Chain islet, is about a cable in extent and 80 feet above
high water; it lies at the south-west side of the group, and its south part may bo
approached to a cable's distance.

Spencer Ledye, off their east side, at a distance of 2 cables from the easternmost
hign «d,ter rock, is marked by kelp, and has 9 feet on its shoalest part ; if going
through Hecate passage it requires to be guarded against. Cadboro point, open west
of Channel point N.N.W. i W., leads a cable east of this ledge through Hecate
passage.

Caroline Beef, at the north part of the group, and connected to it by a rocky ledge,
is of small extent, and covers at a quarter flood, but is well out of the track of vessels
using any of the channels. Foul ground with from 3 to 4 fathoms, and marked by
kelp, exists upwards of a cable west of it.

DZBOOVsay and CBATBABS xsLAitDB. — Discovery island is 2 miles north-east
of Gonzales point, at the junction of the Haro and Fuca straits. It is wooded,
about three-quarters of a mile in extent, and its shores on all sides are bordered by
rocks, extending in some places more than 2 cables ofi". Eudlin bay on its south-east
side is filled with rocks, and should not be used by any vessel.

Chatham islands, to the north-west of Discovery island, and separated from it by a
narrow boat pass, are of small extent, forming an irregular group, low, wooded, and
almost connected with each other at low water, the tide rushing with great strength
through the passages between them ; their west side is steep-to.

Leading point, at the south extreme, is a bare rocky islet at high water ; to the
eastward of it is a small boat cove. Channel point, their west extreme, is also bare
and steep-to ; the tide runs strong past it.

Strong Tide islet, the north-west of these islands, is rocky, about 50 feet high, and
wooded ; its west side forms the eastern boundary of Baynes channel, and is steep-to ;
the ebb tide runs very strongly past it, nearly G knots at springs.

Refuge cove, on the east side of the Chatham islands, is small, and has 1^ fathoms
in the centre ; coasters or small craft entangled among these islets may find shelter in
it. Alpha islet, the easternmost of the group, is bare, aud 10 feet above high water ;
it is steep-to on the east side, but only a boat ought to go westward, or inside it.

Fidford Reef, 8 cables north of the Chatham islands, is about a cable in extent, and
covers at three-quarters flood. Vessels using Baynes channel should keep well to the
westward to avoid this reef, as the tide sets irregularly in its vicinity.

Becate and Plumper FassaBes. — Diiscovory island is separated from the Chain
islets by a passage half a mile wide in the narrowest part, forming an apparantiy clear
and wide channel, but near the middle of the south part lies ( 'outre rock, which has
only 8 feet over it, and though marked by kelp, this, from the strength of the tides, is
often run under, and seldom seen. Ihero is u deep passage on each side of this

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298

STRAIT OF JUAN DE FUCA.

danger, the one to the westward being called Hecate, and the eastern one Plumper
passage ; the latter is wider and best adapted for large steamers, but the tide sets very
strong through both of them.

Cadboro point, open west of Channel point N.N.W. 4 W., leads through Hecate
passage in mid-channel, west of Centre rock.

Cadboro point, well shut in north of Leading point N.W. J N., leads through
Plumper passage in mid-channel, east of Centre rock.

Baynes Cbannei, between Cadboro point and the Chatham islands, connecting these
inner channels with Haro strait, is upwards of a mile long and half a mile wide; the
soundings in it are irregular, varying from 4^ to 80 fathoms, and the tide at springs
rushes through it with great velocity, strongest along the eastern side.

The Five-fathom shoal, lying in the centre of the channel, is not mai'ked by kelp ; if
wishing to avoid it a vessel has only to keep a little over on either side of mid-channel.

Cadboro Point, on the Vancouver shore, at the termination of the inner channels,
is nearly 3 miles north of Gonzales point, and three-quarters of a mile west of the
Chatham islands. It is about 50 feet high, rocky and bare of trees. A small islet
lies just off it, also a reef which covers; in passing do not approach the islet within
2 cables.

The coast west of Cadboro point to Cadboro bay, is low, very much broken, and
there are some off-lying rocks. Jemmy Jones islet, \Yhich is bare and 15 feet above
high water, lies 3 cables off shore, midway between the two points ; foul ground exists
around it for upwards of a cable in some parts, and though there is deep water between
it and the shore, none except small craft should go through that passage.

Directions. — None of these inner channels, though deep, should be used except by
steamers of moderate size or small craft, unless in cases of necessity. Coasters and
small steamers, when taking advantage of them, generally proceed through the Mayor
channel. If using this channel, after passing Gonzales point keep the .west side of
Great Chain islet in line with Channel point N. by E. i E. till within 2 cables of the
islet, when the vessel will be clear of the Thames shoal, after which haul to the north-
west bringing the highest part of Trial island in line with Gonzales point S. ^ W., and
with that mark on astern steer N. 3 E., which will lead between the Fiddle and Lewis
reefs, and on through Baynes channel, to Ilaro strait. When past Lewis and Fiddle
reefs, a vessel may, if necessary, haul a little to the eastward for the fairway towards
Strong Tide islet.

The Hecate and Plumper passages are nearly straight, and better adapted for Inrge
steamers than those west of the Chain islets. If using either of them, after passing
half a mile south of the islets on a north-easterly course, bring the loading marks
(given above) on, and keep them so till noithward of the Centre rock, when steer up in
niid-chauuel towards Cadboro point, and through Baynes channel into Haro strait.

Tides. — The high water at full and ciuuigo is irregular and much influenced by
prevailiug winds; the greatest rise and fall of tide at Discovery island is 12 feet.
During summer mouths in these channels, the flood stream commences at lib. 15m.
A.M., running with great strength till nearly 8h. p.m., after which but little tide is felt
till ih. A.M. on the following day, when the ebb commences and runs strong till nearly
lib. A.M.; the time of low water by the shore.

SMITH ISLAND, &c.

299

Constance Bank, lying ia Juau de Fuca btrait, nearly luilos S.E. by E. \ E. from
Fiagard island lighthouse, 3 miles S. by W. from Trial island, and 7 miles N.E. from
Race island lighthouse, is upwards of a mile in extent, and has upon it a depth of t) to
l-l fathoms. A vessel should not anchor on it, as the bottom is rocky.

Fonte Bank, about a mile in extent, with from 3^^ to 5 fatiioms and marked by
kelp, lies nearly in the middle of Fuca strait, 6 miles S. i W. from Cattle point (Sau
Juan island), 8 miles E. by S. from Discovery island, and 8 miles W. i S. from Smith
island lighthouse.

This bank ought to be avoided, as there may be less water on it than is shown on
the chart."

ADMIRALTY INLET, PUGET SOUND, AND HOOD CANAL.

Maijnct'w Variation in 1880; — Entrance of Admiralty Inlet 22;}" E. ; in Pui/et

Sound 22° E. , and in upper part of Hood Canal 22 J° E, The annual

increase is estimated to be 2 minutes.

Bmitb Island and z-ight. — On the north-eastern side of the approach to Admiralty
inlet is Smith island, which we now proceed to describe because it is an important
object to vessels making the inlet either from Rosario strait or from westward. The
direct course from Juan de Fuca strait into Admiralty inlet is between this island and
the lighthouse on New Dungeness.

Smith island lies at the eastern termination of the strait of Juan do Fuca, within
6 miles of Whidbey island, and 7 miles from the southern entrance to Rosario strait.
It is small, not occupying half a mile square, and rises regularly from the eastern to
the western extremity, where it attains a height of about 55 feet, with an almost per-
pendicular cliff of clay and gravel. There is no fresh water to be found on the island.
A small low islet lies one mile north-cast of Smith island, and at very low tides is
connected with it by a narrow ridge of boulders and rocks. A field of kelp, with
6 J fathoms water, extends westward of Smith island for 1^ miles, and has a width of
a mile. The bottom is hard and sandy, and no rocks have been discovered in it.
Another smaller field is seen westward of the one just moutioned.

There is good anchorage on the north side of the island, east of the kelp, in 10 to
5 fathoms, and on the south side, east of the kelp, in 10 to 8 fathoms, hard bottom.
Very deep wa'.er is found close to the eastern end of tho small islet.

The lighthouse on Smith island shows a rcvulrinn light, fJai^liiiif) every /uilf-iiiinute,
at 90 feet above the sea, visible 15 miles. Its goographii-al position is lat. •18° 19' 4",
long. 122" 50' 8G". From it Discovery island bears West, distant 10| miles; Race
island light, S.W. by W. i| W., 20..i miles; New Dungeness light, S.W. by S.,
13J miles; Point Wilson light, S.E. J S., 11 miles; and cape Colville, tho south-
west point of the entrance to Rosario strait, N. i W., Oj miles.

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ADMIRALTY INLET, PUGET SOUND, &o.

ruids off Mmip. — At 8 miles southward from Smith island is an extensive field of
kelp on a bank lying off Partridge point, Whidbey island. Within the 10-fathom
onrve the bank is 8 miles long, E.S.E. and W.N.W., and li miles wide. The north
and east sides fall off sharply to 20 fathoms. A considerable part of the bank is
covered with kelp, which is much under-run by strong currents. The bottom is
generally sand, gravel and boulders, except near the shoalest spot, where it is rocky
and thickly covered with kelp. The depth on this spot is only 14 feet and the general
depth on the bank is 5 to 10 fi»thoms. The 14-foot spot is distant about 8^ miles
from the nearest shore of Whidbey island, and about the same distance south-east of
Smith island lighthouse ; it is guarded by a buoy moored in 20 feet water off its
southern side.

At 8 miles W. i S. from Smith island, is another field of kelp nearly a mile in
extent, named Fonte bank, mentioned in page 299. The depth of water upon it is
very uniform at 6 fathoms. Recent partial examinations show that this field marks
the north-east portion of a bank lying nearly north and south, with a length of
4 miles, and a breadth of li miles withir the limits of the 20-fathom line.

At a milA southward of the south-eastera point of San Juan island, and Bj miles
N.W. by W. i W. from Smith island, lies a small field of kelp about half a mile
square, with 6 feet to 8 fathoms upon it. Recent examinations show that this is con-
nected by a 4-fathom bank with the fouth-eastern end of Sun Juan island, and stretches
S.S.E. therefrom for 2i miles, with a breadth of three-quarters of a mile within the
limit of the 10-fathom line. It is named Salmon bank.

All these fields and patches of kelp should be avoided, as they denote rocky bottom ;
and isolated points of rooks frequently exist among them and escape even a very
careful survey.

AOBKZBAZ.TT xHXiiiT. — Admiralty inlet, at the south-east extremity of Juan de
Fuca strait, may be described as a vast canal, running in a general S.E . by S. direc-
tion for 60 miles to the south end of Yashon island. It has for that length an average
width of 8i miles, and then branches into a multitude of arms, which cover an area of
about 14 by 22 miles : the general direction of these is S.W. | S., and they comprise
what is called Pnget sound.

At 10 miles from the entrance to the iulct an arm known as Hood canal opens upon
the western side, and runs 60 miles S. by W., with an average width of 1^ miles. At
26 miles from the enirance of the inlet another arm opens on the eastern side, runs
north and north-west behind Whidbey island, forming Possession sound, ports Oardner
and Susan, &e., and loads on to the strait of Juan de Fuca through Deception pass, at
the north end of Whidbey island, in lat. 48" 24 i'.

The shores of these inlets are guueruliy blufl's, ranging from 60 to 600 feet in
height, with their sides kept bright by the gradual wearing action of the water, and
their tops covered with trees and thick undergrowth to thoir very edges. There is so
much sameness in the shores that it requires some acquaintance with the different
points to recognize them by their trifling peculiarities. The depth of water in the
channels is remarkably great, and it is sometimes difficult to find anchorage sufficiently
far from the shore to afford room for getting under way. Many superior harbours are

ADMIRALTY INLET.

801

fonnd in every dh-ection, and smadl settlements are gradaally springing np in favourable
localities.

Admiralty inlet, Po7et pound, and Hood canal have an aggregate shore-line of not
less than 800 miles, yet the number of dangers known to exist in them is remark-
ably few.

We shall not attempt to give in detail all the pecnliarities of this vast area of waters,
but, following the mid-channel courses, will only note generally the objects as they
oome under the eye of the navigator.

The entrance to the inlet lies between point Partridge (Whidbey island) and point
Wilson (on the main), on which is now a lighthouse. The bearing of the latter point
from the former is S.E. by S. ^ S., 4^ miles ; and the bluff head lying 2 or 8 miles to
the east of this line, and destitute of trees and marked by a lighthouse is Admiralty
head, around which the ebb current, and an ebb eddy on the flood, sweeps with force.

The first course inside the entrance of the inlet is E.S.G., 6^ miles, passing port
Townshend on the South, Admiralty head on the North, and changing the course
abreast of Marrowstone point.

Point Partridge, the western point of Whidbey island, and directly facing the strait
of Juan de Fuca, is very steep and yellow, and flat on the summit, which is covered
with spruce, fir, and cedar. The point is so rounding that it is not easily recognized
on coming from westward, but from southward and northward, it is well marked and
prominent.

The highest part of the point is about 260 feet above low water. 'Xhe approximate
geographical position of the southern part of the point is lat 48° 12' 59", long.
122° 46' 7". From point Wilson lighthouse it betfrs N.W. by N. i N., 4.^ miles; and
from Admiralty head lighthouse N.W. by W. | W., 6^ miles.

WiUnn Point Light. — A fixed white light is exhibited on the extremity of point
Wilson from a square wooden tower ; it is 68 feet above the sea, and visible 12 miles.
Its geographical position is lat. 48° 8' 41", long. 122° 45' 6". A whistle is sounded
in foggy weather, giving a blast every minute.

rert Towashand. — This harbour is favourably situated at the termination of the
strait of Juan de Fuca, at the outlet of the waters of Admiralty inlet, Puget sound, &o.,
and in proximity to the great inland waters of British Columbia. The entrance lies
between point Wilson and Marrowstone point, the latter bearing E.S.E. 8^ miles from
the former. Upon this line, and even outside of it, lies a bank extending two-thirds
of the distance from Marrowstone point, and having upon it from 6 to 15 fathoms,
with hard, sandy bottom. Inside of point Wilson, which is composed of low, sandy
hillocks, lies another low point called point Hudson, distant If miles 8.E. by S. { S.

Starting from the entrance line, about 1{ miles from Marrowstone point, the mid-
channel course of the bay is S.S.W., 8 miles, with an average width of 2 miles; thence
S.E. i S. for 8^ miles, with an average width of 1^ miles. The depth of water
throughout is very regular, and ranges from 8 to 15 fathons, with soft, muddy bottom
inside of point Hudson. Vessels coming from the strait steer for point Hudson, aa
soon as it is opened by point Wilson, passing the latter moderately close, as 20 fathoms
are found 100 or 200 yards off it. Upon approaching point Hudson, and when within

■ 1

803

ADMIRALTY INLET, PUGET SOUND, &c.

hiilf a mile of it, gradaally keep away about a quarter of a mile in 5 to 10 fathoms,
and, as it opens, ran quite close, with the summer wind off shore, to save making a
tack ; keep along half a mile to the town situated under the Prairie bluff, and anchor
anywhere off the end of the wharf, in 10 to 12 fathoms, about a qnurter of a mile from
shore. In winter anchor farther out, to clear point Hudson in getting under way with-
a south-easter.

When coming down the inlet, bound into the bay, with the current ebb, pass Marrow-
stone point nearly three-quarters of a mile before heading in for the town, and so avoid
a very strong eddy which comes out of the bay along the bluff shore west of this point.
If the wind be light and the current strong, pass the point quite close by ; run along
the outside of the rip, and try to get upon the bank as soon as practicable.

In summer vessels frequently drift about the entrance for days, without a breath of
wind, and in very strong currents.

Tides. — The corrected establishment of the port is at 8h. 49m. ; the mean rise and
fall of tides is 4'6 feet, of springs 6'6 feet, and of neaps 4 feet.

The town of port Townshend has increased very much since the discovery of gold on
Fraser river. No fresh water (1862) is to be had, but vessels can obtain a small
supply near the military post, 2i miles S. by W. from the town. Some fine farms lie
near the town, and vegetables are plentiful at reasonable prices.

On the east side of the bay, abreast of the town, lies a long sand spit, nearly dosing
the north entrance to Eilisut harbour, which runs parallel to the inlet, and is separated
by an island one mile wide and 6 miles long. At high tide this harbour communicates
by a crooked boat channel with Oak bay at the south end.

At the head of port Townshend is a narrow channel opening into a large fiat,
bounded by a low, sandy beach, separating it from Oak bay. The Indians frequently
use this as a portage.

The shores are generally bluffs, about 120 feet high, and covered with wood, except
behind the town. Between the town and fort Townshend are two low pieces of grass
and sand beach, backed by marsh and ponds. The 6-fathom curve extends but a few
hundred yards from any part of the shores. A small pa(:h of kelp lies off the southern
point of Prairie bluff, and another off the north face of Marrowstone bluff.

MarrowBtone point is a low sandy point stretching 800 yards eastward from the base
of the bluff, and forming an indentation on its southern face, where anchorage may be
had in 12 fathoms, with a current or eddy invariably running ebb. Email craft coming
out of the inlet with a head wind can easily take advantage of this fur 2 or 8 miles
above the point.

Admiralty a«»d and liigbt. — Abreast the entrance to port Townshend, is a per-
pendicular cliff 80 feet high, iiilliug on the oostoru Bide to a low, pebbly shore, which
runs 2 miles to the E.N.E. and strikes the high cliffs on the oaRtorn side of the inlet.
Behind this beach is a large lagoon, and off it is Admiralty bay, with hard, sandy
bottom, in irregular ridges, and a depth of 16 to 25 fathoms of water. A strong
current always makes out of the bay, and it is exposed tu the full sweep of sonth-
easters. The current is so strong that a vessel rides to it, and consequently lies in the
trough of the sea

ACMIRALTY INLET.

808

The lighthoQse on Admiralty head exhibits ajixed white light, at 119 foet above the
water, visible aboot 17 miles. The tower is square, painted white ; lantern red. Its
geographical position is lat. 48° 9' 16", long. 122° 40' 84". It illaminates an arc of
270° of the horizon, and commands Admiralty inlet and the approaches. From point
Wilson it bears N.E.by E., distant 8^ miles ; from Marrowstone point N. by W. ;^ W.,
distant 8^ miles.

Starting from abreast Marrowstone point the mid-channel conrse up Admiralty inlet
runs S.E. by S. | S. for 7 miles. The shores on either hand are blaffs of apparently
nniform height, covered with trees. After running thns about 6 miles there will be
passed, on the eastern shore, a low point, with one or two clumps of trees and bashes,
to which has been given the name Bush point. On the western shore is Nodule point,
a rounding blu£f a mile north of the north-east point of Oak bay ; off this point is
good anchorage in 12 or 15 fathoms. The high bold headland, several miles directly
ahead, is Foulweather bluff, and that to the E.S.E. destitute of trees, except one large
olamp, which marks it conspicuously from this direction, is Double bluff. The deep
indentation between it and Bush point, with low land in the rear, is Mutiny bay, in the
northern part of which exists a narrow bank of 11 fothoms, affording an excellent
fishing ground. At the end of the course Oak bay opens to the westward, and stretches
towards the port of Townshend.

The opening west of Foulweather bluff is Hood canal (subsequently mentioned).
Vessels bound into it keep close to the western shore of the bluff, and pass two low
points lying near together. The water off them is deep. Off the north face of Foul-
weather bluff, for nearly a mile, a depth of less than 16 fathoms may be found. Kelp
exists nnder the face of the bluff, and vessels may pass around it in 6 or 7 fathoms.
The bottom along the edge of the kelp is rocky. On the west side of the entrance to
Hood canal is port Ludlow, which will be described hereafter.

Tbe next or third course up the inlet is E.S.E. for 10 miles, passing on the east-
ward Doable bluff, which stretches north-eastward for a mile, and rises 800 or 400 feet,
having its top covered with wood. The bluff running also to the northward forms
Useless bay. This has deep water over the greater portion of it, with a large shallow
bay called Deer lagoon at its head. The high bluff forming the southern point of Use-
less bay is Satchet head. A similar b'- T lies 2 miles E. by S. of it. These form
the southern extremity of Whidboy island, in latitude 47° 64', and are the turning
points into Possession sound.

The two heads are about 800 feet high, covered with wood, and separated by a
depression, which is in part overflowed at high tide, and then presents the appearance
of a small bay. From the eastern head round the western, and a mile towards Useless
bay, the low-water line makes out half a mile, the shore being bare where some recent
maps have deep water. For nearly a mile south of both heads a depth of 8 and 10
fathoms and smooth sandy bottom can be found. The surveyors found, when anchored
for several days off the eastern head, a strong under current running into Possession
sound, and an upper current setting to the westward, at all tides.

On the western side of the last mid-channel course is Foulweather bluff (already
noticed), which is perpendicular on its N.N. W. face, and about 225 feet high, with

:?1

804

ADMIRALTY INLET, PUGET SOUND, Ac.

heavy firs npon its snmmit. It slopes tovards the east to a blaff 40 feet high, bnt it
steep on the side next to Hood canal. The low point with a lighthouse on it, 4 miles
eastward of Fonlweather blnff, is point No-Point, making well out, and dr;8titnte of trees
or bashes. Between it and thv blafif is a deep bight, and the distance across the neck
to Hood canal is only a quarter of a mile in one part. On the south side of point No*
Point is good anchorage in 10 fathoms ; and thence the western shore mns nearly
straight S.E. by S. for 10 miles.

Point No-Point Light. — A Jilted white light is exhibited on point No-Point from a
low square tower painted white ; it is 27 feet above the water, and visible 10 miles.
Its geographical position is lat. 47° 64' 41", long. 122° 81' 6" ; from it Admiralty
head light bears N.W. i N., distant 10 miles. A bell is sounded in foggy weather at
intervals of 10 seconds.

At 8 miles beyond point No-Point the inlet expands to a width of 7 miles. Thence
an E.N.E. course for S^ miles carries to the entrance of Possession sonnd, the first
6 miles through which run N. ^ W., with a width of 2 miles and bluff shores ; it then
turns to the north-westward to port Oardner. The water is deep in tha entrance, and
afibrds no anchorage. The low point on the shore, 4 miles after entering, is point
Elliott, and the bay opening to the north-east receives the Sinahomis or Scaget river.

The next, or fourth, mid-channel noui^e np the inlet is S.S.E. for 21 miles to Allen
bank, which lies a mile off the north end of Vashon island. Five miles on this course,
or 7 firom point No-Point, brings us to an excellent little harbour on the western side of
the inlet, called Apple Tree cove, having a low point on the north side, with a soft
mud flat extending several hundred yards up the inlet. A depth of from 6 to 12
lathoma on sticky bottom are found off it and in the cove. There is no fresh-water in
the vicinity, but very good timber may be procured suitable for boats spars and booms.
On the eastern shore of the inlet, abreast of Apple Tree cove, are two low points, a
mile apart, making out from the bluff. The indentation between them forms a good
though small anchorage, and the chances are good for fresh water at high tide. The
southern point is named point Wells, tho surth point Edmund. The inlet is here only
8 miles wide, and continues so to point Jefferson, 2 miles southward of Apple Tree
cove. This is a moderately low, straight bluff, with the ground rising behind it, and
covered with timber. Extending off its eastern face for three-quarters of a mile is a
8-fathom shoal, which affords good anchorage for vessels when drifting with lighi, airs
and adverse currents.

At night. — Vessels entering Admiralty inlet from Juan de Fnca strait should stand
for Admiralty head light on an K. by N. course, keeping point Wilson light open on ihe
starboard bow. When ppint Wilson light boars S.S.W. } W. a S.E. \ E. course will
lead through Admiralty inlet direct to point No-Pniut. When Double bluff bears
N. by E. { E. change course to E. by S. until point No-Point bears South, when alter
course to S.E. \ S. for the southern part of the sound (187U).

Porta MadUon and Orehard. — Point Jefferson is the northern side of the entrance
to port Madison, which runs 8 miles W.S.W., with an average width of 2 miles and a
great depth of water, except under point Jefferson, where anchorage may be had in
10 and 16 fathoms, hard sandy bottom, with patches of kelp inshore.

■

ADMIRALTY INLET.

80&

The south-east point of the entrance is low and sandy, making out from high wooded
groond. One mile west of it is the narrow entrance to a natural canal, upon which, in
fall view, are situated the port Madison saw-mills. At the south-west part of the bay is
the very narrow entrance to port Orchard. The channel is somewhat crooked, but it has
8 and 4 fathoms water in it. On the western side of this entrance are some white
patches of beach, formed by clam shells. In 1857 an Indian village was situated
here, and an Indian snb-agencj Both sides of the entrance are bluSs. Vessels not
well acquainted with the channel must enter under easy sail, and keep a lead going on
each side of the vessel to ascertain where the deepest water lies. After getting
through give the point, one mile off ol ^he western side, a berth of nearly half a mile,
to avoid a shoal which makes out east from it. Thence it is plain sailing in 15 to 25
fathoms of water. After passing the first point an arm opens to the N.W., and many
vessels load there with spars. Ten miles up the southern channel is, or was, a saw-
mill. In coming out of this port vessels should not trust the southern entrance, but
leave as they entered. See subsequent remarks under heading " Restoration point."

Bainhridye island lies between port Orchard, port Madison, and Admiralty inlet. It
is 8 miles long by 2^ miles in breadth, and its general direction is S.E. by S. A few
loggers' huts stand on the western side and the Madison saw-mill at the north end. On
the south-east part it is indented by two small harbours.

Bawamlsbaay. — Abreast port Madison the eastern shore of Admiralty inlet retreats
and there receives Sdveral small streams, but it gradually extends out into a very
long low sandy point, named West point, which forms the extreme north-west part of
the entrance to Duwamish bay. The bay runs E. by S. 0^ miles and has a width of
2 miles. To the south point, known as Battery or Roberts point, which is low and
bare, with a curiously shaped mound rising sharply behind it, the course is about
S.E. by S., and distance 4^ miles. Under West point there is anchorage in 10 to 15
fathoms after getting towards the bluff, but on the north side of the point the water is
very deep. Through the centre of the bay the depth ranges from 88 to 40 fathoms.
The beach is smooth and very regular, being composed of saud and gravel. On this
side of Battery point is the deserted town of Alki (the Indian phrase for " by and
by"). There is nothing about the town to command trade.

The bluff hebd within the bay, 2 miles N.N.E. of Battery puint, is Duwamish head.
It is steep, about 150 feet high, covered with timber, and the beauU at low water
stretches out over a quarter of a mile N.N.W. from it. The head of the bay receives
the Duwamish river, and for 1 or 2 miles ia an exteui^ivo flat, bare nt low water.

The town of Seattle is on a small point at tho uoith-east pnrt of the bay, a little
over 5 miles inside of West point. It consists of n fuw bouses and stores, a church,
a small saw-mill, and a number of other buildings. It has but little tnide.

The usual anchorage is directly off thu wbaif iu 10 to 15 fathoms wtitei-, with the
large white house ou the extreme point beuiing about East, or E. by S., ami at a
distance fi'om the beach of about 2. J cables. This position will enable a vessel to work
well out by making the first tack to tho southward towards the flat. It' it be high
water this flat cannot be distinguished, and tho lead must bo lu'pt going. Whcu a

■' !1

:; 1

800

ADMIRALTY INLET, PUGET SOUND, Ac.

depth of 16 &thoins is stniok go aboot, for it shoals to 8 fathoms yerj saddeuly, and
keeping on woold soon bring np a vessel on the flat.

lUttoration Point, — ^From the south-east point of port Madison to this point the shore
is blaff and somewhat irregnlar, and is indented first by Eagle harbour, having a long
pebbly spit making out li to 2 cables S.E. from its north point ; and next, at point
Restoration, by Blakely harbour, having off its entrance a large rock, 15 feet high,
trith deep water all round it. The rook bears nearly N.N.W., three-quarters of a mile
from the point, and the bottom between is irregnlar, the depth ranging firom 20 to 40
fiithoms. Blakely harbour is only a quarter of a mile wide and three-quarters long,
with 18 &tbomB sticky bottom at its mouth, and shoaling gradually inside, but most on
the south side ; it is. not so commodious as Eagle harbour.

Restoration point is in some respects very peculiar ; no other in these waters, except
Battery point, presenting the same formation. For 800 yards its south-east face is
flat, about 10 feet above high water; inshore itriites np sharply about 100 feet, its sides
covered with grass, and the summit with fir trees. On the upper levels of the high land
adjacent are several small lakes.

From the extremity of the point a ledge, bare at low tides, makes out 1^ cable> , but
the depth is 6 fathoms at 100 yards from its extremity, and 16 fathoms at a quarter of
a mile. Anchorage may be had 8.8.E. of the point, distant a quarter of a mile in 16
fathoms, sticky bottom ; a rule To. finding anchorage, is to bring the rock north of it
to range just over and inside of the point. Kelp exists along the southern face.

The geographical position of Restoration point is about lat. 47° 85', long. 122° 28' ;
from it Battery point beara E. by N. \ N., distant 2| miles.

Tidta. — The approximate corrected establishment at Restoration point is 4h. 4m.
The roean'rise and fall is about 7*4 feet.

<.< South of Restoraticm point, Admiralty inlet opens westward for a couple of miles into
a bay, in which is situated an island about three-quarters of a mile in extent, called
Blake. From the north-west part of the bay, a narrow crooked pass 8 miles long,
leads to the southern part of port Orchai'd, which spreads out into several arms. The
pass is obstructed by rocks and is difficult of navigation. The winds are variable, light,
and uncertain at its narrowest part, where it makes a sharp turn, and is only 200 yards
wide, with a rushing current. The channel generally used, although narrower than
the one just mentioned, is that leading into port Madison.

Allen Bank, off the north end of Yashou island, is nearly a mile in extent, and has
as little as 10 fathoms upon it, with a variable bottom, in some places mud, and iu
others hard sand. Between the anchorage and Blake island the water regularly
deepens to about 18 fathoms soft mud. The eastern point of Blake island is low and
pebbly, and called by the natives Tatugh ; under it is anchorage in 17 and 18 fathoms,
soft mud. The north-west extremity of Yashou island is named point Yashon ; the
point abreast of it is point Southworth ; and the channel commencing between the last
two points is Golvos passage, running west of Yashon island.

The main body of Admiralty inlet continues about S.E. for 8 miles, then S.S.W.
8 miles farther, with an average width of 2 miles. In this stretch the currents are
moderately strong, the chances for anchoring few, and it is sometimes calm while a
fine breeze is blowing through Colvos passage.

PUGET SOUND, &o.

807

Brace point lies on the east side of the inlet, about 4 miles south-eastward of Roberts
point. Point Fully, a round-topped point having two or three lone fir trees upon it,
and situated on the same side of the inlet, is distant 4 miles above Brace point. The
geographical position of the summit of point Pally is lat. 47° 27' 7", long. 122° 22' 21".

There is a small bight north of Brace point, and between it and another low point, is
an inlet called Fauntleroy cove, having good anchorage in 10 and 12 fathoms, and
fresh-water is easily obtained in the vicinitv. Between Brnnfl nninf. mA nnint. Pniw

18
U

s,
le

re
a

a small peninsula, on the east. In this bight is anchorage in 15 fathoms, with whurl-
ing eddies. On the south face of this peninsula, and outside of the kelp, anchorage

may also be had.

rvaBT movtm. — This collection of inlets commences after passing " The Narrows,"
and covers an area of 14 miles by 22 miles, in the general direcilon of S.W. i S.
Thv> aggregate shore-line of this sound, and the adjacent part of Admiralty inlet,
with Colvos passage, to the north end of Vashon island, is not less than 870 miles.
Upon its shores are situated the settlements of Stcilacoom, Nisqually, Olympia,

and Newmarket.

806

ADMIRALTY INLET, PUGET SOUND, &a.

aepth of 15 fiithoms is struck go about, for it shoaU to 8 fethoms yery suddenly, and
Hooping on would soon bring np a vessel on the flat.
^^raHon Point.-From the south-east point of port Madison to this point the shore
"f ^^ «>"»«''hat irregular, and is indented first by Eagle harbour, having a long
Sl'T K i,?*, !**« 2 cables 8.E. from its north point; and next, at point
B* toration by Blakely harbour, having off it. entrance a large rock, 16 feet high,
with deep water all round it. The rock bears nearly N.N. W., three-quarters of a mile
from the point, and the bottom between is irr«^l«r tha ^.«*k ;.» a.^^.. .„

[To face page 807, North Pacific Pilot, Part l.j

OemaMBMmaBt Say. — Port Tacoma (Commencement bay), the terminus of the
Northern Pacific Railroad on the Pacific, is looming up into prominence as a possible
rival of San Francisco, now that the Northern overland route approaches completion.
Tacoma possesses many natural advantages. It is the centre of the largest lumber
forest in the world, and extensive deposits of fine bituminous coal, which, extending
80 miles back, runs through five veins, estimated at 236,700,000 tons, besides rich
tributaries. This " black diamond " field should give the new port an enduring
vitality. There is also considerable iron ore in the appendage, enough to sustain an
enormous industry. Its recommendation as a port exists in the fact that from the ocean
to the Tacoma docks there is not a bar, rock, reef or sandbank. The entrance to
Puget sound is 18 miles wide and 600 feet deep, maintained from the mouth of the
Straits of Fuca to Commencement bay, which is the Tacoma harbour. Pilotage and
towage could be dispensed with by incoming vessels. Arraugementc by railroad are
to be made that will make this a great wheat shipping port, commanding the wheat of
Eastern Washington Territory and North-Eastem Oregon and Idaho. Tacoma has
now a population of 4000 people, which is being increased so rapidly that the saw mills
are not able to supply the demand for lumber, though kept running night and day.
The Northern Pacific Railroad Company is projecting shops and buildings on a scale
commensurate to the size of a great city, and it is a question of months rather than
years when this place will be one of the controlling influences of the North-West
Coast.— iVew York Shipping List, April 1888.

. °^- f'''°»'*-™' "ta-""? of V.,bo„ i.l.nd i, ....ed point VaBlo. ; iU

lwopon,l.i.Ool,o.pMMg,,n>nnu,gwertofV..ho.i8l.„d «"'«el«*

lb. mrin bod, of Adminll, inlel continue, .boat 8.E. for 8 n>ile,, tten S S W

n^.r.t.1, ..j^ng tb. cb.nc«> for .nohoring fo„, ..j u u .„.«„„ ^^ ,.„,';
lUi. bmze M blowing tbrongb Colvoa (asug..

PUGET SOUND, io.

Bract point lies on the east side of the inlet, about 4 miles soath-eastward of Roberts
point. Point Pally, a ronnd-topped point having two or three lone fir trees upon it,
ud sitaated on the same side of the inlet, is distant 4 miles above Brace point. The
geographieal position of the summit of point Pally is lat. 47° 27' 7", long. 122° 22' 21".

There is a small bight north of Brace point, and between it and another low point, is
an inlet called Faontleroy cove, having good an';horage in 10 and 12 fathoms, and
fresh-water is easily obtained in the vicinity. Between Brace point and point Pally
two or three streams disembogue, and another from the valley a mile east of the high
bloff at Pally point. Off this valley a flat makes oat with deep water at its edge.

Colvos passage is the nsnal roate towards Paget sound. It is about a mile wide,
with high bluff shores, varied by numerous small low sandy points making ont from the
&ee of the bluff, and having deep water off them. The pasE ige is 11 miles long to the
BO.th end of Vashon island, named Dalco point, and it runs with a nearly straight
eourse 8. by E. At li miles inside of point Vashon there is a small curve in the
shore line known as Fern cove, with excellent anchorage in 5 and 10 fathoms. Abreast
Daloo point on the western shore there is a small harbour, with a narrow and shoal
entrance, known as Gig harbour. Looking out of the passage to the north, mount
Baker shows distinctly in clear weather.

Oemm«ae«Bi«nt Bay. — When abreast Dalco point this bay, at the termination of
Admiralty inlet, opens to the E.S.E., and over its low background shows the high
snow-covered peak of mount Rainier. The general direction of the bay is E. by S. i S.,
with a length of 8 or 4 miles, a width of 2 miles, and a groat depth of water up to tha
line of the extensive flat at its head, which is backed by marsh. There are no settle-
ments upon it (1862).

Vashon island, lying between the southern extremity of Admiralty inlet and Colvoa
passage, is Hi miles long, with an average width of 2i miles. The island is high,
with steep shores, covered with wood .'uid undergrowth. Its surface is marshy in many
parts that are quite elevated.

Point SoAaae* mad ths If axrowi. — The high sharp yellow bluff facing the south
entrance to Colvos passive is named point Defiance, and between it and the western
shore pass all the waters of Paget sound. This passage is known as the Narrows. Its
average width is three-quarters of a mile, and very uniform ; the shores are high, bold,
and in some places, rocky. For 2 miles to the S.E. its coarse is a regular curve.
The neXu turn is to the southward, and at a distance of 2 miles in that direction the
waters of the sound open ahead, with a narrow pass between the main and Fox island to
the west : and a small indentation, backed by low ground, and formed on the south by
a small peninsula, on the east. In this bight is anchorage in 16 fathoms, with whirl-
ing eddies. On the south face of this peninsula, and outside of the kelp, anchorage
may also be had.

rvaBT BOVifO. — This collection of inlets commences afler passing " The Narrows,"

and covers an area of 14 miles by 22 miles, in the general direction of S.W. f S.

The aggregate shore-line of this sound, and the adjacent part of Admiralty inlet,

with Colvos passage, to the north end of Vashon island, is not less than 870 miles.

Upon its shores are situated the settlements of Steilacoom, Nisqually, Olympia,

and Newmarket.

808

ADMIRALTY INLET, PUGET SOUND, &c.

■tcUMoom. — On the eastern shore of Paget sound, 9 miles south of point Defiance,
is sitoated the town or village of Steilacoom, npon a rising blaff. It consists of only a
few honses. Fort Bteilaeoom stands about a mile inland, npon a piece of graTelly
prairie, and roads lead from it to tbo town and the creek.

The neighbouring country is only moderately well adapted to agriculture, except
along the bottoms of the small streams.

The usnal anchorage is off the small wharf, in 16 fathoms, hard bottom, and about
2 to 2i cables from the shore. An island lying 2^ miles westward of that position is
named McNeil (or Duntze), and between it and Fox (or Rosario) island, to S[^e northward,
there is a passage li miles wide. The passage on the south side of McNeil island,
between it and Anderson (or Fisgard) island, is generally known as Balch passage. It
bears about S.W. by W. from the anchorage, and is marked by a t: i v ' rooded islet in
it, named Eagle island, off which lies rocky bottom, and Tero^ls keep closer to the north
shore. This passage is the direct channel to Olympia, instead of following the broad
one Bouthwori of Steilacoom.

The north end of the island, showing to the southward, and 1^ miles from the
anchorage, is Kitson island.

One mile north of the anchorage is the mouth of a small stream called the Steila-
coom river.

When approaching Steilacoom, or bound direct for Olympia, a patch of kelp, with
foul bottom and less than 8 Tathoms of water npon it, must be avoided. It bears
S.S.E. one mile from the south end of Fox island, and N.W. by W. IJ miles from
Steilacoom wharf. The tide-rip npon it and abreast of the town is very great ; quite
sufficient with a little wind to swamp a small boat. The shores of the main and islands
are bold, nearly uniform in height, and covered with trees.

Tides. — The corrected establishment of the port is 4h. 4Gm. The mean rise and
fall of tides is 0*2 feet, of spring tides 11*1 feet, and of neap tides 7*2 feet.

NUqoaUy, 6 miles south of Steilacoom, and on the same side of the sound, is, at
present, a place of no trade or importance. It was one of the early posts of the
Hudson Bay Company, and is still (18G2) occupied by them. An extensive mud flat
exists off the mouth of the wide marshy valley, but the depth of water is very great close
to it, and the anchorage room very much contracted. The river Nisqnally empties
here, and we believe there are two small saw-mills npon it. The name is Indian.

Olympia. — It would be almost useless to attempt to describe the route to Olympia
from Steilacoom, as a local pilot is absolutely necessary in making the passage. The
mid-channel course is 21 miles in length, and its width from half a mile to H miles.

Olympia is situated at the head of Budd inlet, which is G miles long and three-
quarters of a mile wide, and runs nearly South. The shores are ste<«p and wooded, and
the head of the bay is an immense mud flat, behind which is the town. It acquires pro-
spective importance by being the capital of the territory, but especially on account of
its proximity to the Columbia river valley, and to the headwaters of the Chehalis.
There is a saw-mill at Newmaikot, 2 miles south, on the Tumwater, and three others in
the vicinity, besides one or two grist-mills.

at
iie
at

»ia
be

le-
ad
•0-
of
is.
in

HOOD CANAL, kc.

809

A depth of 8 fathoms can be carried on the west side of Bndd inlet, within 1 \ miles
of the wharf; and one fathom within a mile on the eastern side. Vessels are brought
Dp to the wharf at the highest tides, and then rest in the mud until ready to leave.

The greatest difference between the highest and lowest tides is reported to be about
34 feet, and is doubtless more than this when we compare its position with that of
Steilacoom. The approximate corrected establishment is 5h. 8m., and the mean rise
and fall of tides 9*2 feet.

xLi r.pproximate geographical position of the wnarf at Olympia is lat. 47° 8',
long, i.'l':'," 55'.

Kooo CAiTAX.. — The entrance to this arm of Admiralty inlet lies between Busait
- nut auu Foal'.vouther bluff, the latter bearing £. \ S., distant 8^ miles from the
former.

The iiist mid-channel coarse is S.E. for 4 miles, pointing directly into port Gamble,
At the entrance to which the houses and mill are plainly visible ; and passing a high,
round, wooded peninsula on the west side of the channel, and connected to the main
by a narrow neck of low sand beach. This is frequently mistaken for an island, and is
known as Hood head. Between this head and port Gamble the canal changes its course
and runs in nearly a straight line S. by W. 40 milca, with an average width of
li miles. In lat. 47° 21' it makes an abrupt turn, and runs for 12 or 18 miles
about N.E.

Foart iindtow. — Close to Basalt point lie some rocks, with others about half a mile
S.E., known as the Colvos rocks, among which is one 25 feet high, but of small extent.
Close in-shore, and abreast this, is a rock just awash at high tide, but between the two
runs a channel with 15 fathoms water, having soft muddy bottom. The bright bluff
head 1;^ miles S.E. of the Colvos rocks, and about 2 miles S.W. by W. from Foul-
weather bluff, is Tala point. Halfway between the Colvos rocks and this point is the
usual entrance, over a sand bar having \^ fathoms. The 8-fathom line stretches half
• miles S.E. of Colvos rocks. If the wind and currents do not suit for this channel,
run inside of the Colvos rocks, carrying deep water and 8 fathoms, soft, muddy
bottom, anywhere inside of Tala point, even past the saw-mill, if necessary. The
general direction of the shore from Basalt point to the eaw-will on the low sand point
inside, is S.S.E. 2^ miles. Abreast Tala point the width of the bay is three-quarters
of a mile, but it gradually coutracts to less than half a mile at the saw-mill, at which
vessels load. Inside of the saw-mill point is an excellent anchorage in 7 and 8
fathoms.

Of all the small harbours in these waters this has the preference, as it is completely
laud-locked, and protected from gales from every quarter by the high land and high
trees around it. The approach to port Ludlow is, or was, indicated by buoys.

Fort aambu. — After passing Foulweather bluff keep closer to the eastern bhore than
to the western, to avoid the strong current passing rouud the low poi;it which makes
out from Hood head. Run for the saw-mill, plainly in sight, on the western side of
the entrance to the bay, and when within a mile of it approach the eastoru bluff within
one-third of a mile, in about 10 or 15 fathoms, gradually drawing clos^i m-shore,
and passing between the outer white and inner black can buoys. At the lowest tides
the white one is in 15 feet, the black in 12^, and the small spar buoy between thorn in

€

810

ADMIRALTY INLET, PUGET BOUND, &c.

mid-channel in 17 feet, bnt it rarely sbows aboTe water at any tide. After passiog
these baoys the mill bears almost S.S.E. half a mile distant. Steer B.E., or half-way
between the mill wharf and the east point, pass to the east of the white quur buoy,
which is in 12^ feet water, and ran through the entrance, passing the wharf at aboni
one-third of the distance between the points. Do not roond up to the eastward, as a
shoal makes ont almost parallel with the point.

If the wind be ahead while beating up, it will be impossible finr a large ressel to get
in, as the channel is half a mile long, and not over 100 yards wide at the narrowest
part. Anchor o£f the buoys, and drop in with the early flood, or warp in with the last
of the ebb. On the shoal forming the western side of the pasugo 10 feet water may
be found until up with the white spar buoy.

Inside of the points the bay appears to open well under the easterb one, but the
S-&thom line makes out on a line with the end of the point. On the western side is a crib,
around which a shoal has formed — anchor just beyond it in 5 fathoms, ioft muddy bottom.
The depth of water throughout the bay is from 4 to 9 fathoms, with mad bc^ttom.
The length of the bay is 2^ miles, its width three-quarters of a mile, and its direction
south-east. The shores are steep, but not high, and ai'e bordered by sand and pebble
beach. We believe there is a road from this place to port Madison.

In summej* the wind generally blows into the harbour lightly; in winter the B.C.
gales draw directly out. Loaded vessels must warp out in summer, or trust to a light
southerly air in the morning, with an ebb tide. None but small, smart working vessels
can beat out, and few of those have done so within the channel limits.

The approximate geographical position of the eastern point of the entrance is lat.
47° 51' 82", long. 122° 88' 50".

At about 8 miles from Hood head, '>n the western side of the canal, is Snqdamish
harbour. A large saud bank occupies its centre, and extends a mile in length N.N.W.,
by half a mile in width. The approaches to the shoal, which is in part bare, aro
detected in thick weather by the lead, the soundings decreasing regularly from 20
fathoms. Keep, however, close under the northern shore, which rans 2 miles W.S.W.
from the low point known as Terminatiou point.

At 14 miles from Hood head the canal curves more to the southward, and then to
the S.S.W. around Hazel point, on the west side of which a large arm rf the canal
extends in a northerly direction for 10 miles, bifurcating near its head. Oo its western
side the eastern spurs of the Olympus rai.^o reach its waters, and form the western
shore-line of the canal to the great bend.

At 2 miles south of Hazol point, and on the eabtcm side of the oanal, is a fine
harbour, formerly called Hahaiuidh harbour, but the nam-' has been changed by
settlers, who have lately built a small saw-mill there. It is formed by Seaboek island
on the west, and is about a niilo lung by half a mile wide, with good bottom in from
10 to 15 fathoms, the depth docroasiug to the head.

South of Habainish harbour Hood canal is slightly contracted in width, but continnes
in the same general direction to about latitude 47° 21', (" Yanoonver's farthest"),
where it takes an abrupt turn, and stretches E. by N. i N. 4 miles. The width in
that part contracts to half a mile, and the shores overlap. From this it takes another

PUGET SOUND, &c.

811

slight- bend, rnns N.E. by N. 8 or miles, and reaches within 2 or 8 miles of the
northern extremity of Case inlet, an arm of Paget Bound. A large lake lies between
the inlet and the canal.

The following remarks on Paget soand, &c., are abridged from an article that appeared
in the Mercantile Marine Magazine, 1868 : — " Paget sound has fine natural advantages
and unrivalled beauties, while the thriving towns and numerous large lumbering camps
indicate that enterprising men with means are there. To enter ii:to brief detail, then,
we begin at the head of the sound and go northward : —

Olymvia, the capital of Washington Territory, is 140 miles from Portland (per
stage) and 480 milos from Victoria (per steamer). Two miles above, the Tumwater river
fulls 60 feet in 500 yard^, affording a very fine water-power. There is a large fionr-
mill just below the falls, also a saw-mill and tannery ; and a village has grown up
along the banks of the Tumwater. Olympia is in tri-weekly mail connection with Port-
land, overland, and weekly with Victoria and various ,way-poiuts by steamer. The
population is 800.

Steilacoom, the county seat of Pierce county, is 25 milos below Olympia. Fort
Steilacoom (now unoccupied) is 1^ miles from the town — back from the water. The
population is 160.

Seattle is 80 miles below Steilacoom, on the east shore of the sound ; it is situated
on an eminence overlooking Seattle bay, and contains a saw-mill that cuts 20,000 feet
per day. It has a good harbour, and three steamboats ; and it employs three vessels
shipping piles to San Francisco. The present population is 500. From Seattle to
port Townshend the distance is 60 miles.

Port Maditon. — Passing across the sound from Seattle to the north-west, and around
a point on the north shore of Bainbridge island, we enter Port Madison bay, which is
800 yards wide and completely landlocked — one of the cosiest bays on the sound.
Port Madison is 15 milos from Seattle, on the east shore of the bay, and about 85 miles
from port Townshend. There is here a steam mill, cutting 75,000 feet of lumber per
day ; also, 600 feet of dock.

Tekalet (Port Gamble) if 8 miles by trail, or 25 miles by water from port Madison,
aud 20 miles above port Townshend. At this poiut is the most extensive lumbering
eHtablishmc 't on the sound, if not on the Pacific coast. Tekalet employs 800 men,
and has machine shops, stores, and hydrant water.

Port LvALie. — Seven miles from Tekalet are the noted Ludlow mills which out
76,000 feet per day, besides lath and shingles. The harbour consists of a well pro-
tooted crcsoent-formed bay. The town site has a southern exposure. It is 10 miles
from port Townshend.

Port Townshend, which is near the entrance to the sound proper, and 40 miles from
Victoria, has the custom house. It is also the county seat, and has an increasing
population. The residences are mostly situated on a high bank, commanding a fioa
view. The climate of the port, though somewhat disagreeable in winter, is exceedingly
salubrious. The population of the town is 800.

There are other points on the naund where lumber is cut. At least five other fine
mills are now (1808) working, uumoly :— one at Seubcok, catting 60,000 foot pur day ;

812

POSSESSION SOUND AND ANCHORAGES.

others at port Orcbard, port Discovery, and Utsalady, each abont the same capacity as
that at Seabock : and one at port Blakely, trhich is a little smaller.

Poget soand, then, being a fine, capacious harbour, in range with the Trade-winds
of the Chinese seas and East Indies ; supplied with abundance of timber, enough
to last for three centuries to come ; surrounded with a fertile agricultural country, and
possessing nnlimitod water power, inexhaustible coal mines, and valuable fisheries,
must become in the future a very important section of the Pacific slope."

POSSESSION SOUND AND ANCHORAGES.

M(if/netic Variation in 1880 ; — Possession Soiiud, south entrance, 22^° E. ;
Ports Gardner and Susan 224° E. ; Deception Passage 221° E.
The annual increase is estimated to be 2 minutes.

WBiSBZiT X6ZiAan>. — This long crooked island has been already mentioned as lying
at the entrance to Admiralty inlet, and forming for a considerable extent its eastern
shore. It is about 83 miles long, and so irregular is its outline, that in some places
it is not more than a mile broad. The soil is represented to be good, and the timber
to be excellent, and it is said that there are also several open plains suitable for
grazing purposes. On it are many small villages, and the inhabitants, which are of the
Bcatchat tribe, are more numerous than in any part of Juan de Fuca strait or Puget sound.

The channel between Whidbey island and the main, named Possession sound,
contains several places of excellent anchorage, of which the principal are ports
Gardner and Susan, and Penn cove. The water throughout is in general deep, but
believed to be not so deep as in Admiralty inlet.

The western shore of Whidbey islaad has been already referred to on pages 800-1, also
the bank lying off Partridge point. We are unable to give a detailed description of
the shores of this island, as the locality has not been minutely surveyed. It is possible
other banks may exist off its shores besides those mentioned.

riOAMMO iBX>AiffD. — At the north end of Whidbey island, and separated from it by
a narrow and dangerous channel, named Deception passage, is Fidalgo island. It has
an extent of about miles, and on its eastern side is almost connected to the main,
the land between being marshy and traversed only by a narrow channel of no great
depth. Mount Erie, in its centre, rises to the height of 1260 feet. On the western
side of the island is Burrows bay, which is protected from westerly winds by Allan,
Burrows, and Young idiots. In this bay vessels may anchor in about 10 fathoms and
wait for a suitable wind to carry them through llosario strait.

The country around Fidalgo ihlaud presents a very different aspect to that farther
southward. The shores are composed of sleep rugged rocks, whose surf i varies con-
siderably in respect to height, and exhibits little more than the barren rock, which in
some places produces a little herbage of a dull colour, with a few dwarf trees.

s«ea|ition PaMMAacommunicates with Possession sound, and is a narrow intricate
channel, which, for a considerable distiuioo, is not dO yards in width, and abounds wiUi

POSSESSION SOUND.

818

rocks above and beneath the earface. These impediments, in addition to the great
rapidity and irregnlarity of the tide, render the passage navigable oulj' for boats, or
vessels of veiy small harden. In front of the western entrance is a small islet, having
a sunken reef ofif its south side.

' vossrsBXOir BOVHO. — ^This is the exteneiTe sonnd between Whidbey island and
the main ; its principal and indeed only navigable entrance for ships is from
Admiralty inlet, between the doath end of the island and the main shore, in lat. 47° 54'.
On the eastern shore, near the entrance, is the ontlet of the Sinabomis river ; off which
h a small high island, in the middle of the sound, having a depth of 12 to 20 fathoms
close to it all round. The shores of the sound are in general regular, and of but moderate
elevation, and Yaitconver observes : — " We found the shores of ibe inlet to be straight,
oompaot, and abovp 9 utiles apart. In several places we attempted to land near the
npper end, but found ourselves as oftien repulsed by a flat sandy shoal, which extended
direotly across. The land there seemed of a swampy nature, was thinly wooded, and
through it was the appearance of a shallow rivulet falling into the sea ; farther back it
was morv"* elevated, and the surrounding country being covered with timber, made us
oonclu'le that it was fertile." '

At about miles within the entrance of Possession sound is Allan point, tho
southern extremity of Camano island. This island is nearly 14 miles long, and its
upper part is joined to the shore by a track of swampy land, through which a small
stream flows ; behind this the country is more elevated, and covered with timber.

Pert BnaaB. — On the east side of Camano island is port Susan, which extends
11 miles to the north-westward, and has deep soundings all over it, excepting at its
head, where is the swampy land just noticed, which is fronted by a quantity of kelp.

On the eastern side of the entrance to this port is a small bay, into which flow two
excellent streams, but so nearly on a level with the sea, that Vancouver could procure
water only at low tide, or at some distance up the brook, which latter was easily
affected, as the boats could go up as far as where the fresh-water fell from the elevated
land.

Port aurdaw is on the west side of Camano island, and is merely a reach of
Possession sound ; in it there is deep water of 80 fathoms, and good shelter from all
winds. In the western part of the port there is a deep bay, extending into Whidbey
island about 6 miles, the shores of which, with the exception of some rocks off tho
eastern shore at the entrance, are believed to be clear of sunken dangers. From port
Gardner the trend of the sound is towards the N.W., about 8 miles, to Penn cove.

Pcnn ooT* is an inlet on the east side of Whidbey island. It is a very excellent
and commodious harbour, and has regular soundings of 10 to 20 fathoms, good holding-
ground. The extent of the cove is about 6 miles, and when within there is shelter
from all winds. The head of the cove is not more than a mile from Partridge point,
the western extremity of the island, so that the island is here* nearly divided. On each
point of tho harbour Vancouver found, in 171)2, a deserted village.

From Penn cove, Possession sound rnus northward about 8 miles, and has a very
contracted channel, allhotigh deep enough for vessels. From the eastern shore an
extensive flat rans out nearly over to Whidbey ialand, and narrows tho channel to the

814

HABO OR SAN JUAN AROHIPELAQO.

width of abont three-quarters of a mile ; on this flat there are several islets and rooks.
In the northern part of the sonnd is the entrance to Deception passage; and between
Fidalgo island and the main is a narrow tortuoas channel over the marshes, leading
into Bellingham bay, fit only for boats.

Yaneonver (1792) says of Penn cove : — " The stirroanding epantry, for several
miles, from most points of view, presented a delightful prospect, consisting chiefly of
varions meadows, elegantly adorned with clumps of trees ; amongst which the oak bora
a very considerable proportion, in size from 4 to 6 feet in circumference. In these
beautiful pastures, bordering op. an expansive sheet of water, the deer were seen playing
abont in great numbers. Nature had here provided the well-stocked park, and wanted
only the assistance of art to constitute that assemblage of surface which is so much
sought in other countries, and only to be acquired by an immoderate expense in manual
labour. The soil principally consisted of a rich black vegetable mould, lying on a
sandy or clayey substratum ; the grass, of an excellent quality, grew to the height of
8 feet, and the ferns, which, in the sandy soils, occupied the clear spots, were nearly
twice as high« The country in the vicinity of this branch of the sea is, according to
Mr. Whidbey's representation, the finest we had yet met with, notwithstanding the
very pleasing appearance of many others; its natural productions were luxuriant in
the highest degree, and it was, by no means ill supplied with streams of fresh water.
The number of its inhabitants he estimated at about 600, which I suppose would
exceed the total of all the natives we had before seen;^ the other parts of the sonnd
did not appear by any means so populous, as we had been visited by one small canoe
only, in which were five of tb^ natives, who civilly furnished us with some small fish.
The character and appearance ot the several tribes here seen did not seem to difier in.
tmy material respect from each other, or from thos') with which we had fdready met."

In the bay westward of the north point of the entrance to Possession sound, there is
a shoal at a short distance from the shore. It is generally visible; and is easily dis-
covered by the soundings gradually decreasing to 10, 7, and o lathoms, so that it
cannot be considered as any material impediment to the navigation of the bay.

HARO OR SAN JUAN ARCHIPELAGO.

Maijnetic Variation in 1880; — about 22}° E. The annual increase ii estimated to

be 2 mintUet.

Between the south-west end of ^'uncouver island and the main is the extensive group
of islands known as the Haro or Ban Juan archipelago. It would not be consistent
with the limits of this work to furnish a detailed description of all the islets com-
posing this archipelago ; so numerous are they that an inspection of the charts will
aloQc give an adequate idea of their configuration, and of the winding obannels which

HARO STRAIT.

815

separate them. We therefore rnfer oar readers to the Admiralty charts (Nos. 2689,
677, 284Q, 602, and 611,) and to the Vancoaver Island Pilot, publications resalting
from the surrey of these waters by Captain G. H. Richards, R.N., dnring the years
1669 to 1866. The latter work contains a complete description of, and directions for,
every anchorage and navigable channel among the islands.* The following general
remarks npon the archipelago are from the report of tho U.S. Coast Survey 1862.
It is necessary to premise that the islands are separated from the YaDcouver shore by
a broad and very deep channel known as Haro strait; and from the main land by a
passage almost equally broad, bnt not so deep, named Rosario strait.

The Boundary line of British and American territory runs through Haro strait, so
that the whole of the San Joan archipelago belongs to the United States.f

BABO BTBAXT. — ^The Bouthem entrance to this strait may be said to lie between
Discovery island and the point of San Juan island ; here the strait is about 7 miles
in width. Starting from this line and about 8 miles from Discovery island, a course
N.W. by N. for 16 miles will run through the first stretch of the strait; thence an
abrupt turn is made towards the eastward and the way out can be readily seen between
the islands. The next course is N.E. i E. for 11 miles; finally, N.N.W. 2^ miles,
and a run of 7 miles on that course will carry a vessel into the middle of the gulf of
Georgia.

Commencing at the starting point, we have San Juan island to the eastward, a^d
pass it at the distance of 1^ miles. Its mountains rise to 1070 feet, and somo of
them are only partially covered with wood. The blufifs are very precipitous and
inaccessible, and the depth of water close to them is as much as 160 fathoms. The
greater extent of the strait is to the westward, stretching off into bays and passages
«mong the islands. Cormorant bay is the only available anchorage about this entrance.
It commences at Gordon head, 6^ miles N.W. by W. i W. from Discovery island ;
then stretches westward for 2 miles, and gradually curves to the N.N.W., with a long
high bluff, broken and bright, at Cowiohin head. Back of the south-west part of the
bay rises a bold rocky-topped hill (named mount Douglas), which reaches a height of
696 feet. Fresh-water is obtainable on the southern shores of the bay. The northern
limit of the bay is Darcy island, N. ^ W. 4 miles from Gordon head, and on this
course, 1) miles from the head, is Zero rock, a small white rook, showing a few

I
II

* We cannot too strongly reoomraend tliipniasters bound to Vanconrer island to Airnish tbem-
lelves with these excellent works by Captain Biohards, R.N. The charts of Vancouver island and
harbours with the inner waters, published by the Admiralty, are in about forty large sheets.

t The Oregon Treaty of 1846 divided the western part of the North American continent between
the two countries by a line to be drawn along the 49th parallel of latitude. Bnt in order to preserve
to Oreat Britain the whole ef Vancouver island and its harbours, &o., it was agreed that the
boundary should go " to the middle of the ('utnncl which separates the continent from Vancouver
island, and thence southerly, through the middle of tho said channel and of Fuca strait to the
Pacific Ocean." The interpretation of this clause of the Treaty subsequently gave rise to the well-
known dispute between the two countries. The boundary line claimed by Oreat Britain was the
strait eastward of S^n Jnan archipelago, known as Rosario strait ; that insisted on by the United
States was Haro strait, lying to tho westward of the archipelago. In the year 1872 the dispute was
referred to the Emperor of Oermany for settlement, who decided in favour of the United Statoa.

910

HARO OR SAN JUAN ARCHIPELAGO.

feet above water, with plenty of water aronnd it, bat foal bottom and a pateh of kelp a
few bandred ytuC^z N.N.W. of it ; 1^ miles westward of it is a sanken rook. In the
bay a depth of not over 20 &thoms is found, decreasing irregalarly in advancing, bat
in the soathem portion affording good holding ground in 10. fathoms water. At
li miles E.S.E. from Gordon head are patches of kelp and fool bottom.*

When 8i miles within the entrance the width of the strait decreases to 8^ miles,
having Darcy island (low and wooded) on the west, with a small islet off its N.E.
&ce, and very large fields of kelp stretching far off the sonth-east point into the strait.
In one of these fields lies the Unit rock, a sharp-pointed rook, which uncovers 2 feet
at low tides, and is situated three-quarters of a mile E. by S. i S. from the south-east
point of Darcy island.

Since the discovery of Unit rook several other rocks, distant nboat 1^ to 2 miles
£. by S. i S. from the sooth-east point of Darcy island, have been found. They are
marked by a field of kelp, and one point nnoovers at the lowest tides. Near mid-
ohanuel a depth of 166 fathoms is found.

The island to the eastward, nearly abreast Darcy island, with a small cove at its
soathem end, is Henry island, having a high rocky precipitoos front, and a whirling
current around it. Farther on and to the westward is the south-east end of Sidney
island, 1^ miles northward of Darcy island, with the Dot rocks between then), bat
nearer Sidney island. This island is not high like those on the other side of the
channel, and a landing is easily made at any point. The channel here, 10 miles from
the entrance, is 2} miles wide ; to the eastward it opens beyond the north end of
Henry island, with high mountainous islands bounding the view ; to the westward lie
a couple of long narrow islands a mile from Sidney islands, and between them and the
latter is good anchorage and capital fishing ground for halibut; that near the strait is
named Halibut island. Some moderately low wooded islands lie 8 or 4 miles ahead,
on the western side of the channel ; between them runs the inside channel for steamers
to the Nanaimo coal mines. The background of the view is occupied by wooded
islands, overlapping each other and appearing like a continuous shore. The large
high island on the eastern side, 16 miles from the ontrance, is Stuart island, and Iha
strait is here contracted to a breadth of only 2 miles, this being the narrowest part.
At 2| miles W.S.W. from the western point of Stuart island is situated a rock covered
at a quarter flood, and having irregular bottom around it for the space of half a mile,'
with soandings of 6 to 20 fathoms ; another rook, which dries at half-flood, lies about
2 miles S.W. i S. from the same point. At a mile north-west of Stuart island is a
depth of 190 fathoms.

Stuart island in many places is very high and precipitons, and covered with timber,
but in some parts sparsely. Near its south -west head a perpendicular wall of rook
serves also to distinguish it. After passing the western end of this island at the dis-
tance of a mile, the channel takes an ubrnpt turn to the eastward, and the gulf of
Georgia is seen. The course now is N.E. ^ E. for 11 miles, having on the north-west
side Satuma island, which rises into mountains. Monarch head, near the eastern

* Apparently on Johnitone reef (0 feet under water) of tho Admiralty chart. No. 2089.

BOSABIO STRAIT.

extremity of this island, stands np perpendicolarly nearly 700 feet, bat the extreme
part of the island, known as East point, is a long sloping point, in many places destitute
of trees. The island lying off its north shore is named Tnmbo.

On the east side of the strait the waters open well to the soath-east, and the islands
rise in high hills and moantains. The large island opposite Monarch head, to the
Bonth-eastward is named Waldron ; it has good anchorage off its south-west side,
where the shore-line curves well in. The western point of the island is low and sandy :
the southern, known as point Disney, is perpendicular, high and rooky. Off its northern
&ce lie two islets, named Skipjack and Penguin; the western one, about a mile from
Waldron, is moderately high, and wooded ; the eastern is smaller, about 40 feet high,
destitute of trees, but covered with grass ; and lies a mile east of the former; — between
these islets lies a sunken rock, and the current rushes by with great velocity.

When East point (Saturna island) bears N.W. by W. | W., 2 miles distant, the west
end of Patos island will bear N.N.E., 2^ miles ; and the west <^ad of the Sucia group,*
E.N.E. 8^ miles; from this position a N.N.W. course for 7 miles leads out into the
middle of the gulf of Georgia, passing between Patos island and East point, which are
2} miles apart. Close off East point is a depth of 120 fathoms, and off Patos island
170 fathoms. All these islands are moderately high, rugged, and covered with wood.

Plumper reef is distant about a mile W.S.W. from the south-west point of Sucia ; it
has less than 2 fathoms upon it, and is marked by a large mass of kelp.

The approximate geogi-aphical position of two or three points will serve to check the
courses above given. East point of Discovery island, lat. 48° 25', long. 128° 14' ;
west point of Stuart island, lat. 46° 41' 17", lo^g. 128" 14' 80" ; and west point of
Patos island, lat. 48° 47' 8", long. 122° 57' 81".

The number of islands and the intricate channels lying between Haro and Bosario
straits we shall no^j attempt to describe. A proper appreciation of them can only be
obtained from the chart.

B08ABI0 BTBAZT. — Bosario strait is the eastern of the two principal channels
running through the Haro archipelago, between Vancouver island and the main. Its
southern entrance lies N. by E., distant 7 miles from Smith island, and is 4^ miles
wide. The western point of the entrance is formed by cape Colville, which runs out
from Walmouth hill;f this hill is 460 feet high and on the south-east part of Lopez
island. Off this cape lie several rocky islets, with deep water among them and a
rushing current. The outer one, named Colville island, is about 50 feet high, rocky,
flat-topped, destitute of bush or tree, narrow, and about one-third of a mile in length,
east and west; half a mile E. | S. from it lies Davidson rock, which dries 4 feet at
low water. A patch of kelp exists upon and around this rock, but the kelp is generally
run under the surface of the water by the strength of the current.

The whole southern face of Lopez island is skirted by rocks and reefs. The island
itself is very rocky and moderately low.

■m

* Suoia Bignifles muddy. The harbour on the eaat side of it has a soft muddy bottom.
Indian name of the island is Choo-aa-nung.

f The ladlan name ii Noo-ohaad-kwum.

The

818

HABO OR SAN JUAN ARCHIPELAaO.

I' I

On the eastern side of the entranee to Bosario stmt is a small wooded islot known
as Deception island, at the month of Deception pass, an intricate and very narrow
8-&thom channel, 8 miles long, rnnning between the north end of Whidbey island
and the sonth end of Fidalgo ishind. Distant about If miles S.W. by W. i W. from
Deception island is a dangerous sunken mok known as Lawson rock ; the least water
on it is 8 fathoms, and within a short distance from it the depth is 80 and 60
:fathoms.

When at the southern entrance to Bosario strait, and 1^ miles from the western
side, a direct course of N. by V '■ W. for 19^ miles will carry clear of ererything
from one end of the strait to tV .her. This course passes between Bird and Belle
rocks, and almost touches poim uawrence, on Oreas island. Taking the courses
through the mid-channel we have the following : — N. by W. f W., 11^ miles; N. by
E. i E., 8| miles ; and N.W. i W., 6^ miles — making a total of 21i miles.

The shore for the first two miles on the western side is moderately high, declining
to the point (cape St. Mary), a quarter of a mile off which lies Eellett ledge, bare at
the lowest tides, and having deep water all around it ; the ledge is marked by a mass
of kelp. Thence the shore makes a deep bend for a mile to the westward, with a low
beach and marsh, over which Lopei sound ean be seen. This bend is known as Davis
bay, and has 6 to 10 fathoms for a mile oat, with level sandy bottom. In mid-channel
of the strait rise the Bird rocks, abont 80 feet high, consisting of three small rocky
islets very close together, and running in a northerly direction. They are somewhat
pyramidal in form, and daring the summer show yellowish, on account of the parched
grass and the colour of the rocks. Abreast |them, on the western side, is Maury
passage, a narrow opening into Lopez sound, between the two low rocky heads of
Lopez and Decatar islands. The anchorage of Davis bay continues some distance
northward of this opening, and abreast some, moderately high white bluffs. N.N.E.
three-quarters of a mile from Bird rocks lies the Belle rook, directly in mid-channel of
the strait, and from its position very dangerous. It shows 4 feet above the lowest
tides, and is covered by kelp. This rock is particularly dangerous on account of the
strength of the tide, which runs over it 2 to 6 knots per hour ; on all sides of it the
water is very deep. The extent of rock above water is abont 20 feet square. Between
it and the Bird rocks there is a submarine ridge with plenty of water, but marked by
strong eddies.

After passing Deception island, on tbn east side of the entrance, the face of Fidalgo
island is high, precipitous, aud bare for 2 or 8 miles in a north-west direction; this is
named Sares head. It then sweeps to the north, changing to the westward until abreast
and 2 miles from Belle rook. In the bight thus formed, known as Burrows bay, are
several islands ana shoals. Allan island is distant about 8i miles north-westward of
Deception island ; it is about three-quarters of a mile in extent, and 200 feel high,
with its southern face partly bare ; a quarter of a mile off its south-west face lies the
Dennis rook, which is never bare, but its position is marked by a patch of kelp. Half
a mile southward of Allan island is a cluster of rocky islets, 22 feet above high water,
lying well off shore ; they are known as Williamson rocks.

North of Allan island, and separated from it by a channel a quarter of a mile wide,

BOSABIO STRAIT.

819

18 Borrows isUnd, li miles long S.E. and N.W. by half a mile in breadth. The
island is between 600 and 700 feet high, and has a remarkably flat top, is wooded, and
may be seen from the strait of Joan de Faca. At the eastern end of the passage,
between the last two islands, is a snudl one named Yoang island. Through all the
channels formed by these islands a good depth of water exists, and no dangers have
been diseovered. Upon Fidalgo island rises mount Erie to the height of 1250 feet ;
it is oovered with woods and presents a flat appearance from certain directions.

The breadth of Bosario strait at Belle rock is 8^ miles ; but it is soon contracted by
James island, on its western side. tT<\mes island consists of two heads a mile apart,
and 250 feet high, bnt connected by a narrow ridge ; the southern head is the higher,
and not Tery heavily timbered ; — close to the west of tie ridge lies another head, con-
neoted with Deoator island by a low sand beach. '

Immediately northward of James island is an opening on the west side of the strait
between Deeatnr island and Blakely island, with a depth of 25 £athoms in it, bnt a
rook, coTQred at a qnarter flood, lies exactly in the middle of the entrance. The
channel lying lo the* north-eastward of James island is known as the Bellingham
channel; it is about 2 miles wide at its entrance, bnt a short distance within it is
divided into two channels by Gnemes island. Off the north entrance point, which
is the south-west point of Cypress island, are some rocks and foul ground extending
about half a mile in the direction of Burrows island. Around this locality extends a
large body of kelp. The southern face of Cypress island consists of alternate per-
pendicular white cliffs, and sloping ground covered with fern or trees. On its western
side, and 1^ miles from the south-west point, is foond a snug little harbour known as
Strawberry bay,* off which is an outlying rocky islet named Strawberry or Hautboy
island. In this bay excellent anchorage is found in 6 to 10 fathoms water, muddy
bottom. Good fresh-water is abundant here. A high white cliff is seen to the south
of the harbour, from the shores of which rise rapidly the Lake mountains to an eleva-
tion of 1525 feet.

Abreast the Strawberry island the strait contracts to a width of 1)^ miles, where the
bold rocky face of Blakely island rises to a height of between 000 and 1000 feet ; the
greatest elevation of the northern port of the island is 1044 feet. Nearly half a mile
S.E. from its east &ce lies a very small low rook known as Black rook, and half-way
between it and the south end of the island is White rock, a quarter of a mile from the
shore. In this narrow part of the strait the depth of water is about 60 fathoms, and
the current rushes through furiously. When at anchor in 10 fathoms, under the low
point 11 miles north of Strawberry island, the surveyors found the current running
4 miles per hour. Thence the strait widens northward, and at the north end of
Blakely island, 2 miles above Strawberry island, two channels lead to the westward
around Obstruction island, which lies between Blakely and Orcas islands ; both are
narrow, and off the entrance to the southern one lie some sunken rocks, and others
above water. Blakely island and Orcas island are three-quarters of a mile apart.

When in the narrowest part of Bosario strait, a very marked perpendicular rocky

* The Indian name for Strawberry lay is Tutl-ke-teh-cas.

820

HARO OB SAN JUAN ARCHIPELAQO.

peak on the north end of Cypress island, is seen to the northward over the low point of
Cypress island, and soon shows, rising abruptly from the water's edge to a height of
750 feet; it is known as Bald peak.* Abreast it the channel takes the first tom^
changing its coarse to N. by E. f £. for 8} miles. Half a mile off the north end of
Cypress island is a small islet covered with trees, known as Rook island. A third of
a mile W. i S. from Bock islet is a dangerons rocky patch (with kelp), covering at
half flood, named Cypress reef. The low island half a mile N.N.E. of Cypress island
is Sinclair island, the highest part of whioh is towards the eastern end. Off the north-
west face of Sinclair island, and stretching half a mile, is Panama reef, which is
covered with kelp. Some parts of this reef uncover at half-tide; a large bonlder
^nds on the inner part of the reef. From the western point of the .island the reef
bears North, distant three-quarters of a mile. On the north side of the island is
anchorage in 10 to 15 fathoms water half a mile off shore.

Three miles frnm Sinclair island lies Orcas island, on the north-west side of the
strait. It is a large mountainous island, broken by several extensive sands. The
easternmost point, which is low, is known as point Lawrence ;' the low treeless islets
and reef passed 1^ miles before reaching this point, and lying over half a mile off
shore, are the Peapods ; deep water is foand close to them. When upon this same mid-
channel conrse, the island ahead is Lnmmi island ; the southern half of this island is
very much higher than the northern, and attains an elevation of 1560 feet. The rock,
nearly 100 feet high, off the highest part of the ridge, and one-third of a mile from
shore, is the Lnmmi rock, and a good boat harbour is found on its north-west side.
A mile off the south end of the island are the Yiti rocks, whioh are about 25 feet high,
and have plenty of water around them.

Abreast point Lawrence the strait is more than 8 miles wide, and it there changes
to N.W. ^ W. for 6i miles to a line joining the Matia group with the north end of
Lnmmi island. From point Lawrence, along the north face of Oreas isknd, the shore
isrocky and precipitous, and rises by two or three plateaux to mount Constitution,!
which is less than a mile in-shore and 2428 feet high. The geographical: position of
mount Constitution, as determined by the Coast Survey of 1854, is lat. 48° 40' 87",
long. 122° 49' 1".

The conrse out from the strait passes on the west some rocky islets called the Sisters,
marked by one or two stunted fir trees ; then Clark island (with a little islet named
Barnes close under its western side,) leaving a channel a mile wide between it and the
north shore of Orcas island, with very deep water and no anchorage. Abreast Clark
island, on Lnmmi island, is a contracted anchorage and shelter from northerly wind!^
under a low point named Village point ; the anchorage is in 10 to 15 fathoms, but
there is no fresh-water, and the large Indian village is now deserted. After passing this
point anchorage may be obtained tic half a mile from shore in 8 to 15 fathoms water.
Close to Clark and Barnes islands the depth is 50 and €0 fathoms, and a very strong
current runs near them. The channel between Village point and these islands'is
2 miles wide. -

* The Indian name ii Sheh-nng-tlb, signifjring tlie home of the Thunder-bird,
t The Indian name is Sweh-lagh.

BOSABIO STRAIT.

891

W.S.W. from the north end of Lnmmi island, and 4 miles distant, are three islands
Tery close together, called Matia. At 1| miles westward from them lies the Saoia
islands, consisting of one large and six small islands, with a reef off the north side of
the group, and enclosing a beantifhl harbour a mile long and half a mile wide, opening
to the east, and eanying 10 to 15 fathoms, sticky mad bottom. To the westward of
this group lies Patos island, already mentioned on page 817.

The geographical position of the north end of Lnmmi island is lat. 48° 44' 68",
long. 122* 42' 12".

The following geographical positions will serve to check the courses and distances
giyen for sailing through Rosario strait : — Matia island, east end, lat. 48° 44' 87",
long. 122° 48' 29"; south end of Strawberry island, lat. 48° 88' 84", long.
122° 48' 27": and Colville island, off Lopez island, lat. 48° 24' 58", long. 122° 48' 84".

AUaa Bank, 2 miles in extent north and south, and one mile east and west, lies in
the centre of the noiihem entrance of Rosario strait ; its southern limit is 2 miles
north of Matia island, and there is a channel 8 miles in breadth between it and the
eastern shore.

The depth of water on this bank varies from 8 to 7 fathoms, and in one spot as little
as 14 feet is found ; the bottom is in some parts rocky, with patches of k<)lp growing on
it ; in other parts it is sandy and offers convenient anchorage for vessels becalmed or
waiting for tide. Vessels are recommended to pass on the eastern side of the bank.

CMnarai Xamarks. — In consequence of the violence and velocity of the tidal currents
the navigation of the locality just described is exceedingly difficult for sailing vessels,
if becalmed. Throughout Haro strait the roar of the conflicting currents can be heard
for miles, anu Jie main current runs frequently 6 miles per hour. No anchorages
exist in this channel, except at Cormorant bay ; but it is free of known hidden dangers,
except Zero rock, Eelp reefs, Unit rock, and the continuation of the reef off Darcy
island.* It is 10 miles longer than Rosario strait, and makes a right angle in its
course, but is a mile wider, and has much deeper water. Rosarip strait is less curved,
has several anchorages and known dangerous rocks, and a current of about 1^ miles
less per hour. For steamers, either channel, or even some of the intermediate channels,
may be used ; but for a sailing vessel Rosario passage is preferable, although the total
distance from the middle of the strait of Juan de Fuca to the middle of the gulf of
Georgia is 5 miles longer. The winds are apt to fail in both channels, and during
summer frequent calms prevail.

Once in the gulf of Georgia, through either channel, the 8-mile face and timber-
covered bluffs of point Roberts (showing almost as an island) is seen to the north-
west. On the west the mountains of Yancouver and its bordering islands rise up
precipitously, and on the eastern or main shore a series of wooded cliffs 200 feet high.
Far to the eastward the Cascade range is seen rising above intermediate ridges, with
the snow-covered summit of mount Baker, which rears its head 10,900 feet above the
sea. To the W.N. W. stretch the waters of the gulf of Georgia, 9 miles wide abreast
of point Roberts, where it is narrowest, but spreading out to 20 miles, and having a

• For the positions of these dangers, f«e the chart.

. i

828

GULF OF GEOROIA.

length of 120 miles. A sbort distance above the 49th parallel it receives Eraser river
(the third great stream of the north-west coast of America), the branches of which
spread towards the Cascade range of mountains.

If bound up the gulf, vessels hold wall to the eastern shore to avoid the mshing
currents, and to take the chances of an anchorage if the wind fail.

GULF OF GEORGIA.

EASTERN SIDE TO BURBABD INLET.

Magnetic Variation in 1880 ; — In Bellingham Day 22f * E. ; mitranee of Fraser

River 28" E. ; Burrard Inlet 28^° E. It is estimated to increase

about 2 minutes annually.

■ BBXAZwoBAaK BAV. — After leaving Bosario strait, the course upon entering
Bellingham channel, southward and eastward of Cypress island, is N.E. for 2 miles.
The width is at first 2 miles, it then decreases to a mile npon turning sharp around
the south-east point of Cypress island , to the eastward are seen the bluffs of Guemes
island. Between these two islands the channel runs about 8 m'les on a N. by W. i W.
coarse. Abreast the north end of Guemes island (which is a steep bluff), and on
the west side of the channel, are several small high wooded islets, known as the Cone
islands. The moderately low wooded island facing the channel is named Sinclair ;
.vessels pass between the south-east point of it and the north end of Guemes island.
The island 2 miles to the N.E. is Yendovia. Pass north of Vendovia island, but south
of the small islet (off Eliza island), which is 2 miles N.E. by N. from the north-west
.point of Yendovia island, and the southern part of Bellingham bay opens to the south-
east; — its northern part opens to the N.N.W.

If the current be flood and the wind light, keep close around Guemes and Yendovia
islands, so as not to be set past Sinclair island. The low bare rocky islets, 1^ miles
N.W. of Yendovia, are the Yiti rocks ; and the point between them and Eliza island
is the southern extremity of Lummi island. From the islet last passed, a point on
the eastern shore lies nearly North 5 or 6 miles distant. Run past this and follow the
trend of the shore for 2 or 8 miles to the deepest part of that part of the bay, when
houses, &c., will denote the position of the mines and the villages of Sehome and
Whatcom. Half a mile from shore is good anchorage in 4 fathoms, soft bottom, and
jbhe bay there is very smooth.

. The general direction of Bellingham bay is S.E. and N.W. ; its width 8 miles and
length 14 miles, extending from lat. 48° 83' to lat. 48° 48'. The depth of T..^ter
ranges from 8 to 20 fathoms, with good sticky bottom.

We believe there are several companies mining here, but the amount of coal cLtained
is not great, and its quality is not considered good.

The florth-west channel into Bellingham bay is betvieen Lummi isla^ ^ and the shore.

BELLINGHAM BAY, &a.

82ft

At rather more than 2 miles from the north end of the island, in a N. by W. direction,
is Sandy point, a lew point projecting from the main land. From Randy point to point
Whitehom the general trend of the shore is N.W. ^ W., and the distance 7 miles.
The shore is a steep bloff, about 160 feet high, and covered with wood. At Whitehom
point the face of the point if worn away by the action of the sea, and shows bright, with
rocks at its base.

BirehBay. — The Bonthem point of this fine bay is point Whitehom, and tho north*
west shore is formed by a long rounding high bluff, bearing about N.W. from White-
hom point, and distant 8 miles. The bay runs N.N.E. 2^ miles, with a width of
H miles. The bottom is very uniform, with good holding-ground of soft mud in 4 to
10 fathoms. The immediate shores are low, and edged with marshy patches, thick
nndergro^'th, and heavy wood. No directions are necessary for entering, as there is a
depth of 16 to 20 fathoms a mile outside, and 10 fathoms water on the line of the
enti^anee. During the heaviest south-east weather no swell is felt here in a properly
selected anchorage. Search has been made for fresh-water, but none found in the
space of more than a milq along its south-eastern side. The approximate geographical
position of point Whitehom is lat. 48° 68' 7", long. 122° 46' 27". The Indian name
of the point is Tsan-wuch.

Drayton Harbour. — Passing the bluff N.W. of Birch bay the shore trends about
N.N.E. for nearly 8 miles, and terminates in a long low sandy point, behind which
lies Drayton harbour — a small land-locked bay having a depth of 10 fathoms just
inside the entrance, but very shoal over nine-tenths of it. It opens to the north at
the extremity of the sandy point. With the end of the point bearing N.W. by W. ^ W.
half a mile distant, the anchorage would be in 6 fiithoms. South of this position it
shoals gradually for over half a mile to 12 feet, with sticky bottom.

The approaches to the bay do not shsw over 6 fathoms at a distance of a mile from
the shore, and the same depth is found on gradually nearing the end of the low point.
The south-east shore of the harbour is flat and marshy, and is not separated by much
more than s mile from Birch bay.

In this harbour the United States and British steamers attached to the North-
western Boundary Survey were accustomed to anchor (1857). The American com-
missioner encamped on the bloff about a mile north of the boundary, the site having
been selected on account of fresh-water, but it has an extensive flat in front.

■•ml-ah-xeo Bay. — This extensive bay stretches 8 or 4 miles to the westward of
Drayton harbour, and is bounded on the north by a bluff from 800 to 400 feet high,
covered with fir. The bottom is very regular, and the depth ranges from 10 fiithoms
about 2 miles south of the bluffs, to 8 fathoms within half a mile of them.
■ Tides, — The corrected establishment of the port is 4h. 50m. The mean rise and
fall of tides is 5*0 feet ; of spring tides, 10*9 feet.

Stretching to the north-west from this bay is a large shallow marshy bay, fringed
with trees and bushes. From its northern shore low laud extends as far back as
Fraser river. The western boundary of the bay is formed by the eastern shore of
point lioberta. It is mimed Mud bay on the United States Coast Survey map.

roint RobMTts. — When seen from the northern entrance of Haro and 'Bosario straits;

! i

824

GULP OF GEORGIA.

this point stands oat near the middle of the galf of Georgia as a bold wooded island.
From Bosario strait the sonth-westem point bears nearly N.W. by W. about 18 miles.
From point Whitehom it bears West distant 12 miles.

On the outer or gulf of Georgia side of point Roberts the shore runs about
N.W. i W. for 9 miles to the southern and principal mouth of Fraser river. To the
moath of the river at the outer edge of the Sturgeon bank the bearing is W. by N.
and distance 9f miles. The south face runs E.N.E. 2^ miles, and presents for nearly
the entire distance a bold bluff about 160 feet high, and covered with wood. Half a
mile off this shore anc!'orage may be had in from 10 to 16 fiithoms, but in southerly
weather it must be avoided. The eastern shore of the point runs nearly parallel with
the western fo: 4 or 6 miles. Off the south-east point rocks and foul bottom stretch
out S.E. for quite a mile. The geographical position of the south-western point, as
determined by the Uiiited States Coast Survey, is lat. 48° 68' 16", long. 129° 4' 10".
It is therefore nearly 2 miles south of the north-western boundary of the United States.
Between this station and the bluff lies a marsh.

rsABBB XTVBK. — Fraser river,* in point of magnitude and commercial import-
ance, is second only to the Columbia river, on the north-west coast of America. This
river is comparatively free from risk of life and shipwreck, because its waters are
received by a sheltered strait, scarcely 16 miles across ; and the neighbouring island
of YanooQver serves as a natural breakwater, preventing the possibility of any sea
arising which would prove dangerous to vessels even of the smallest class, unless they
ground.

The river, with its numerous tributaries, has its rise in the Rocky mountains,
between 400 and 600 miles from the coast in a northerly direction, wherca it .^brces
its way in torrents and rapids, through one of the many great parallel valleys which
intersect this region, confined by gigantic mountains, with large tracts of country, rich
in agricultural resources on either side of them, until it reaches the town of Hope,
which is about 80 miles by the windings of the river, in an easterly direction from its
entrance.

Above the city of Lytton, which stands at the fork or confluence of the Fraser and
Thompson rivers, 65 miles above Hope, many rich deltas occur, or as they are termed
by the miners, bars, and among those known as the wet diggings, gold was first dis-
covered in British Columbia.

At Hope the river assumes the character of a navigable stream ; steamers of light
draught reach this point and even the town of Yale, 15 miles above it, during 6 to
9 months of the year. In June, July, and August, the melting of the snow causes
BO rapid a downward stream that vessels of even high steam power are rarely
able to stem it, and during these months numbers of large trees are brought down flrom
the flooded banks, which offer another serious obstruction to navigation. Between

* Thtwi remark! tra ftrom the Vancouver Itland Pilot, edition 1864. A lightveik^l is now moored
•t the enlrapoe to the river, in about 10 fathomi water. The light, fixed, can be leen from a
diitapee of 10 milei. A bell ii sounded in foggy weather. From it Garry point boari M. by E. | B.
taiterly, diatant 6 A milaa ; North Band head buoy, K.N.W. | W. 7 onblea ; and the South Band head
buoy, E.N.E. 2 oablea.

FRA8ER RIVER.

828

'i'\

Bope and Langley the latter SO miles from the river's mouth, there is always a con-
siderable strength of carrent, from 4 to 7 knots, at times more ; but at Langlej the
river becomes a broad, deep, and placid stream, and except during the three summer
months the influence of the flood stream is generally felt, and vessels of any draught
may conveniently anchor. The depth is 10 fathoms ; the carrent not above 3 knots.

Midway between Langley and Hope the Harrison river falls into the Fraser and by it
and a long chain of lakes extending in a general N.W. direction, a comparatively easy
route has been established, by which the upper Fraser is reached at a point just below
the Bridge river, in the heart of the gold region, thus avoiding that difficult and at
present almost impassable part of the country between the town of Yale and the Foun-
tains, by the main river a distance of about 90 miles.

Vessels of moderate size may enter the Fraser river near high water, and proceed as
high as Langley with ease, provided they have or are assisted by steam power. The
only difficulty is between the Sand lieads and Garry point, the entrance proper of the
river, but while there are competent pilots and the buoys remain in their positions,
this difficulty disappears. It mast be remembered, however, that the tides of the strait
of Georgia sweep across the channel of the entrance, and a large ship is recommended
to enter or leave with the last quarter of the flood.

The great quantity of deposit brought down by the freshets of summer has created
an extensive series of banks, which extend 6 miles outside the entrance proper of the
river. The main stream has forced an almost strnight though somewhat narrow
channel through these banks,* and at its junction with the current of the strait of
Georgia, which runs at right angles to it, has caused the wall-edged bank before alluded
to, extending to Roberts point on the south, and Gray point on the north.

The river is at its lowest stage daring the months of January, February, and March.
In April it commences to rise from the melting of the snows, and is perhaps 2 feet
above its lowest level ; the flood stream k strong enough to swing a ship at New West*
minster up to the end of this month. In May the water rises rapidly, the river is at
its highest about the end of June, and remains up with trifling fluctuations until the
eud of July or middle of August. During these six weeks the banks are overflowed,
end ejitensive plains above Langley are covered for a space of several miles ; the
strcugth of the stream between Langley and Hope being from 4 to 7 knots, and in the
narrow parts even more. The usual rise of the river at Langley due to these floods is
about li fuet, but from the testimony of an officer of the Hudson's Bay Company, who
has resided more than 80 years there, it has been known to reach 26 feet.

From the middle to the end of August the waters begin to subside, and in September
the stream is not iucouveuieutly strong. September, October, and November are
favourable months for tbo river navigation, as the water is then sufficiently high to
reach Hope, and the strength of the current considerably abated. The shallow BterU"
wheel steamers have got to Hopo as lute as December ; between this mouth and April,

* The ohanoel over the landa at the mouth of FrRBf r livor (in 187G-7) ooutinued to icoiir to tlie
northward, audwai more tortuor." than formerly; it wotiUl not be uuattended with danger to ntleinjit

■■m

■ \ .* i

m
m

I
I

to tako n vpssel to or from New WcstmiiiatLr with a greatir draught than 14 feet.
notice, No, 1, 1880.

Uydioj/ia^liic

GULP OF GEORGIA.

I i

owing to the shoalness of the water and the great quantity of ice formed, navigation,
even by these vessels (only drawing 18 inches) is attended with great difficalty, and
rarely practicable at all. The snags or drift trees which become embedded in the river,
also form a serious obstacle to navigation at this season.

In April the steamers commence again to run ; in June, July, and August the
rapidity of the current is the great obstacle, but these high-pressure vessels (com-
manding a speed of 11 and 12 knots) frequently accomplish the voyage, though at
much risk.

The Harrison river route (page 826), obviates some, but not all these, difficulties.
At New Westminster the freshets raise the level of the river about 6 feet, but the
banks being high no inconvenience is felt and the strength of the stream is rarely
6 knots, during the winter 2 to 8 knots ; for some miles within the entrance the low
banks are partially flooded for a month or six weeks. The rise and fall due to tidal
causes is 8 to 10 feet at springs, between the Sand heads and the entrance of the
river proper at Garry point ; at New Westminster it is G feet, and at Langley scarcely
perceptible.

Directwni. — There are no natural marks sufficiently well defined, or which are not
too distant, or too liable to be obscured in cloudy weather, to enable a vessel by their
help alone to hit the narrow entrance between the Sand heads with accuracy. A large
spar buoy is placed on the south Sand head, and the northern edge of the channel
within is marked by similar buoys, somewhat smaller, for the colour of which see
chart ; the Sand head buoy can bo seen well at a distance of 2 miles.

To make the entrance of the river approximately, the following bearings will be
found useful. From the eastern entrance of Active pass, which is now the usual route
for steamers from Vancouver island, the entrance bears N. by W. ^ W., 11 miles ;
from the entrance of Portier pass, which shows as a very distinct gap between
Galiano and Yaldes island, the entrance between the Sand heads bears N.E. } £.
distant 11^ miles; and when that gap bears S.W. | W., and the extreme of the trees
on Roberts point spit E. | S. a vessel will be within one mile of the entrance, and
should have from 46 to 60 fathoms water.

Mount Provost, a remarkable sharp peak on Vancouver island, kept on a bearing
6. S.W. ^ W., will also load for the Sand heads. In coming from the northward,
Passage island, at the entrance of Uowe sound, kept on or just open of a remarkable
peak on Anvil islund within the sound, bearing N. by W. } W., will clear the edge of
the Sturgeon bank until the bearings just given are brought on for entering.

When at the entrance a remarkable solitary bushy tree will be seen on Garry point,
the northern entrance point of the river proper, strait fc" which is the general direction
of the channel ; it bears from between the Sand heads N.N.E. a little easterly, and ia
just 6 miles distant.

To proceed up the river strangers are reoommoudod to obtain a pilot's assistance, as
the channel over the bar has grown shallower than formerly and moro tortuous ; see
note at foot of page 826.

Haw ^rcatniutar, the capital of British Columbia, stands on the north or right
lank of the Eraser river, just above the junction of the North Fork, and 16 miles in a

PHASER RIVER, BURRARD INLET, &a.

827

general north-easterly direction from the entrance proper. It occupies a cotnmanding
and well chosen position, being within an easy distance of the entrance, and having
great facilities for wharfage along its water frontage, a good depth of water, and
excellent anchorage.

The river bank is somewhat precipitous in places, and the conntry at the back is
like all the lower parts of the Fraser (unless, indeed, in the immediate neighbourhood
of the entrance, where it is swampy grass land, subject to inundation daring the
freshets of summer) densely wooded ; a considerable clearing, however, of the timber
has taken place in the vicinity of the town, which already assumes a prominent and
thriving aspect, and when the facilities for entering the river and its capabilities are
better known, will no doubt rise more rapidly into importan<;e.

The camp of the Royal Engineers, a mile above New Westminster, ia a most
picturesque spot, commanding an uninterrupted view of the Queens reach, a broad,
deep, and magnificent sheet of water. From the camp to port Moody, a harbour at
the head of Burrard inlet, the distance is 4 miles in a north direction ; a good trail exists
between the two places, and a waggon road is in course of construction to the outer
harbour of the inlet, which, when completed, will be an important work. At 5 miles
eastward of New Westminster is the entrance to the Pitt river, which runs in a general
direction from N.N.E. to N.E. for 28 miles, terminating in two remarkable lakes
enclosed between almost perpendicular mountains, and navigable to the head for vessels
of 14 feet draught, the depth in places being far too great for anchorage. A large
tract of low grass land lies on both sides of the entrance of the Pitt, which, however,
is generally overflowed, or partially so, during six weeks of summer.

B«rby or iTaw Xiangloy is 12 miles above New Westminster in an easterly direction,
on the south or opposite side of the river; the channel between is deep, and there are
no impediments to navigation. This spot was first selected as the capital, and as a
town site it is unobjectionable, having a considerable tract of good cleared land in its
neighbourhood, and all the requirements of a commercial port ; the depth of water
here is 10 fathoms. Large vessels may proceed with ease 7 miles beyond Langley,
the navigation then becomes somewhat intricate, and the current too rapid for any
vessels but steamers of light draught and great power.

North rork. — This is another entrance to the Fraser, navigable for vessels drawing
to 8 feet water, and is generally used by the natives proceeding to or from Burrard
inlet. Its junction with the main stream occurs immediately below New Westminster,
whence it runs in a westerly direction, and enters the strait of Georgia through the
Sturgeon bank, about 6 miles northward of the Sand heads ; a low island, partially
wooded, lies in its entrance, and splits the channel into two arms.

In many parts of the North Fork the water is deep, in holes, and the bottom
irregular ; it can only be considered a boat channel.

BURRAXO miiiiT. — This is the first great harbour which indents the shores north
of the 40th parallel. Its entrance, which ia between Qrey point on the south and
Atkinson point on the north, is 14 miles N.N.W. from the Sand heads of Fraser river.
Howe sound immediately adjoins it to the north, Atkinson point being the eastern
limit of the sound. Burrard iulot is extremely easy of access to vessels of any size,

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VAN<X)UVER ISLAND— GENERAL REMARKS.

and possesses convenient anchorage in almost every part of it. It is divided into
three distinct harbours, viz., English bay or the outer anchorage, C'onl harbour above
the first narrows, and port Moody at the head of the eastern arm of the inlet.

Uffht. — A light revolving every minute is exhibited from a square white tower, on
point Atkinson, the north entrance point of Burrard inlet ; it is 119 feet above the
sea and visible (over an arc of 87°) 16 miles. Position, lat. 49° 19' 40", long.
128° 15' 55 ".

SOUTH-WEST COAST OF VANCOUVER ISLAND.

Magnetic Variation in 1880. — Near Barclay Sound 28° E.: Nootka Sound 28i° E.:
Cape Cook ii° E. ; Scott Islands 24J° E. It is estimated to increase about

2 minutes annually.

omia&AXi BBKABXS.* — Vancouver island, first made known to us by Captain
Cook, is situated between latitudes 48° 20' and 51°, longitudes 123° and 128°. It is
separated on the south from Washington territory by the strait of Juan de Fnca, and
on the east from British Columbia by the gulf of Georgia, and by Johnstone strait.
Essentially a mountain ridge, its buttress-like walls descend for the most part abruptly
to the shore, fringed, however, in many places, more especially on its south-eastern
and eastern sides, by the undulating country, thickly wooded in general, but here and
there containing patches of open grass-land.

The island is of an elongated oblong form, nearly 800 miles in length, by 80 to 60
miles in breadth, attaining, at mount Victoria in lat. 50° 8^', long. 120° 9', an
elevation of 7*184 feet. Its outline is boldly picturesque ; its shores are characterised
by abrupt cliffs, rocky promontories, sheltered coves, pebbly beaches, and fine harbours.

The whole western side presents u dreary aspect. Numerous arms of the sea,
fiord-like in character, penetrate between the walls of metamorphic and trappean rock,
which, on either hand, rising into lofty peaks and ranging into broken sierras, or
sloping from rounded dome-shaped masses, form the buttresses of the land, opposing
and resisting the fury of an ocean, for the greater part of the year anything but pacific.
Along the eastern side a more open and more undulating country marks the existence
of underlying sedimentary rocks, which, in the form of carboniferous sandstones and
limestones, at intervals fringe the coast.

The whole country is moro or less densely wooded, excepting just where the summit
of a mountain aifords no hold for plants, or where, as in the neighbourhood of Sooke,
Victoria, Cowitchin, and Gomux, limited ranges of open grass-lands occur.

The surface is diversified by mountain precipice, hill and dale, wide-spreading lakes,

* Those intorosting rrmftrks upon VancouTer iiland are chiefly extraoteil from the Jonroal of tb»
Boyal Geographioal Society, 1864. See also an article On the lame subject in the Mercantile Marint-
Uagaxine, 1867.

VANCOUVER ISLAND— GENERAL REMARKS.

829

ftnd solitary tftrns, eat ap by nomerons artna and inlets of the sea ; in no ca?e does the
water-shed suffice to give a navigable stream. There are no rivers, in the stricter
sense of the word, such streams as flow through the country being simply the short
watercourses, which discharge the overflow of lakes or the surface-watei s of the neigh-
bouring ridges — torrents in winter, nearly dry in summer, valuable only as a power
for driving grist and saw-mills.

As might be expected in a country having a clay subsoil and covered with material
through which water readily percolates, springs are numerous and the water excellent.
Where the clay, however, forms the surface-soil, some inconvenience is experienced,
as in the neighbourhood of the town of Victoria.

The remarkably low temperature which characterises, all the year round, the ocean
that washes the shores of this island, has a considerable influence on the climate ; this
ocean is boreal in character, its temperature being kept low by Arctic currents which
sweep down the coast, even to below the latitude of San Francisco, and by the
quantity of melting snow discharged by numerous rivers and moautain torrents on the
British Columbian coast.

Climate. — The climate of Vancouver, in the succession of its seasons and general
thermal conditions, approximates closely to that of Great Britain, modified by special
cironmstancen connected with its physical geography. Situated close to a continent,
the mountain rangesi of which are clothed or capped with perpetual snow, and sur-
rounded by an ocean remarkable for its extremely low temperature, certain peculiarities
present themselves to the notice of the climatologist; and these are well and specially
marked in the south-east end of the island, owing to its proximity to the Olympian
jrange of mountains in Washington territory. This range, running east and west,
presents its northern aspect to Vancouver island ; and since, on this aspect, the snow
remains on the mountain peaks all the year round, the winds which blow from this
direction are necessarily cold and chilling. Other winds, blowing over the cold sea
water, also have this chilly feeling, and give this peculiarity to the climate, as far on
in the year as the 21st of June, of a fine clear atmosphere with a bright sun and cold
winds, like a late spring in England.

The seasons in general take the following course : — After the gales with rain, which
generally mark the period of the equinox, fine clear weather sets in, and continues till
about the middle of November. At this period rain begins to fall continuously for
days, and gules of wind are frequetit on the coast.

The barometer ranges from 20*50 to 80-10, and falls rapidly on the approach of a
southerly gale. Rising gradually to 80*20 and 80*60, a northerly wind springs up,
and 8 days of fine clear weather, with hoar-frost generally follow. After the third day,
the barometer slowly falls, and again the gale springs up, and the rains come down,
to be succeeded, after a few days, by a rising glass and frosty weather, which, as the
season advances, occasionally becomes intense, and is accompanied by hail and snow.
The latter seldom lies for any length of time; the winters of 1852-68, 69-00, and
61-62, the last especially, being remarkably severe exceptions. These exceptional
seasons occur in all climates, and here prove the rule that an open wet winter
oharactorises Vancouver island.

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VANCOUVER ISLAND— GENERAL REMARKS.

There is a great amoant of rain, bat it is to be regretted that there ig no register io-
ehow what the rainCftU actually is.

The great quantity of uncleared and undrained land tends to make the spring later
and colder than in England. The summer is drier, with a more scorching sun.
Little or no rain falls from the middle of April till the Equinox, or the end of October.
The prevailing winds daring these summer months are from south-west to north-west,
blowing freshly during the day, the nights tranquil and clear. Northerly winds occa-
sionally prevail, and, blowing over the heated land, are, in the southern parts of the
island, hot and dry.

The autumn of the American climate is finer than that of the European, and the
fine weather (the Indian summer) extends farther into the year. The winter months
in ordinary seasons are much the same as in the west of England ; in the severer and
exceptional, more like the Midland Counties and east coast of Scotland. There are
thus, as it were, two seasons, a wet and a dry. The rainfall, it may be noted, is
greatest at night. On the whole, the climate of Vancouver may be fairly described as
very fine, healthy, and enjoyable.

In ordinary seasons the Isothermal line (line of equal temperature) of Vancouver
island would pass through the southern counties of England. Taking the average
annual maximum temperature at London in June as 86°, the minimum as 22° Fahr.
in January, the range will be 64°. In Vancouver, the maximum temperature for the
year is 81° in June, the minimum 14^°, which gives a range of 69^° Fahr. But this
fall to 14^° for a day or two in December must be looked on as exceptional, and the
usual minimum standard of 22° Fahr. accepted; this gives a range of 62° Fahr.,
almost the same as that of London.

The register kept on shore has been taken in preference to one kept on board, in
making the above compurison, the conditions being more equal ; for it must be borne
in mind that, strictly speaking, there are two well-marked climates in Vancouver, viz.,
a littoral and an inland climate : the former, due to the causes already mentioned,
cold arctic currents, &c., &e., has a lower range, as shown by registers kept on board
ship.

The whole area of Vancouver island comprises about 12,000,000 acres, the greater
proportion of which is mountain and barren rock.

Following the districts as herein set down, it will be interesting briefly to set forth
their special characteristics and capabilities.

Of the surveyed districts, beginning at the south-eastern extremity of the island,
Sooke first claims our attention, and it will be found to possess some feature of con-
siderable importance. Situated advantageously and conveniently on the strait of Juan
de Fuca, but for difficulties connected with the approach from seaward to its magni-
ficent inner harbour, this district must have long ago asbumed a position commercially
of high importance. There is reason to believe that these difliculties may in time be
overcome, and by the aid of steam-tugs vessels may be safely anchored in a harbour
safe and land-locked.

A carboniferous deposit in this district has been proved by "bore " to the depth of
84 feet, and two thin seams of coal have been passed through. A promising vein of
copper has been found, and is now being worked.

iitaiUi

VANCOUVER ISLAND— GENERAL REMARKS.

331

Esquimau district eontaiuB 12,426 acres. The soil, generally, is poor in qaality,
covered with Bcrobby timber, a great deal of rock, and many lakes and large swamps.
The great importance of this district consists in its excellent harbour, described on
p. 291.

The village or hamlet of Esqnimalt consists of a few scattered houses, chiefly hotels,
dependent for support on the mail-ateamers and ships of the royal navy there stationed.

The districts o{ North and South Samtich contain respeatively 10,767 and 12,216
seres. These districts contain some of the best agricultural land in Vancouver.
There are indications of copper, and a coal-seam of inferior quality crops out on the
eastern coast.

The district of Nanaimo has a very important geographical position, and possesses
a very interesting, and economically valuable, geological history.

The working of the valuable coal-field of Nanaimo has been carried on very irregu-
larly ; and only of late have any steps been taken on a scale commensurate with its
importance.

Rising behind the settlement of Nanaimo, is mount Benson, a trappean mass,
attaining the height of 8866 feet.

On Chase river, which flows along the south-eastern spur of mount Benson, are
three outcrops of coal. The Douglas seam, now being worked, furnishes the best coal
as yet taken out, and is reported as most favourable, both by analytic chemists and
practical men.*

Nanaimo settlement is prettily situated. The site of the town is now (1867) being
laid out which will probably soon be a port of entry.f

The Valley of the Comiix, another fine agricultural district, as yet unsurveyed, lies
north of Nanaimo. Its special characteristic is the existence of successive terraces of
open prairie-like land, marking separate periods of slow upheaval. But, partially
explored, no further special account of its capabilities can be given than that, in its
general character, i!. closely resembles the Cowitchin valley.

Proceeding north and west, passing Valdes Island, and through Johnstone strait, an
excellent route for steamers, abounding in good anchorages, the extreme north-west
point of the island is reached, where fort Rupert, a trading station of the Hudson Bay
Company, is established.

The western coast of the island, commencing at cape Scott, possesses a great
number of remarkable and interesting features. From this cape a group of islands
extends westerly for 26 miles. Between the cape and the nearest islands there is a
good clear passage 10 to 80 fathoms deep.

* The excellent quality of this coal is now indispntable. It yields a hard, lustrous, fissured, and
little swollen coko. It contains little hydrosuopio moisture, and burns well, with a steady heat and
a brilliant flame— spec. grav. 1*317. Its steaming properties have been very favourably reported on
by the engineers of H.M. ships and other vessels on the coast. In stowage, Welsh coal has the
ndvantnge over it of about 12 per cent ; Newcastle (English) 2 per cent. ; but with most north country
coal, and all Scotch, the advantage would be in favour of Nanaimo coal (Douglas seam) by 2 per
cent.

t A Hghthonie has recently (1876) been erected on Entrance island, on the south side of the
entrance to Nanaimo harbour. The light iajixed white, visible 14 miles. Position lat. 40° 12' 60",
long. 128» 48' 46". •

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VANCOUVER ISLAND— GENERAL REMARK&

Immediately south of cape Scott is Qaatsino soand, an important inlet, stretcbing
across the island nearly to fort Rupert, on the eastern aide. Coal has been foand
he ve,, which with other resources, copper and fine timber, and so forth, will make this
a place of importance.

Cape Cook Heparates Qnatsino from Eynqnot, a district which extends to Nootka
soand. This latter is a deep inlet, possessing few harbonrs or good anchorages. The
small harbour or cove at its entrance is famous as the scene of the Spanish occupation
dispute, and an anchorage nearly opposite has a special interest as having been
Cook's first.

Clayoquot sound differs from all the other inlets of this coast, its entrance being full
of banks and shoals of sand and gravel, instead of a deep muddy bottom. This region
is probably rich in mineral wealth.

Barclay sound, situated close to the entrance of the strait of Juan de Fuea, has a
Tery important geographical position. It is a somewhat open sound, studded with
numerous islands, it possesses several good anchorages, one within very convenient
distance of cape Beale, on which a lighthouse has recently been erected. At the npper
end of the sound a very remarkable cleft in the mountain-range, known as the Alberni
canal, leads to a level country of considerable extent, heavily timbered, with the finest
specimens of pine and other woods perhaps anywhere to be seen. Through this flows
A stream, discharging the waters of a chain of lakes, which penetrates northerly into
the interior. The anchorage is good, and the whole sound, canal, and harbour, can
nowhere be excelled in the facilities they afford for the protection and defence of
commerce.

Such is the general character of Barclay sonuii. Its political and commercial im-
portance merit a more special detail. The Alberni . canal is entered through the
Devil's gap, the rocky sides of which run so sheer down into the deep water that the
largest ship could make fast alongside to the pine-trees, the shores on either hand
not being more than a pistol-shot apart. The convenience of the Devil's gap for
refitting ships is great; timber for masting or repairing purposes . being plentiful.
There is also plenty of fair farming land, and fresh-water in abundance.

The hi{;h and rocky sides of the Alberni canal end on the right hand with a bold
outstanding rock, known from its colour as Copper mountain ; and from it the canal
opens into a wide oval-shaped basin, at the far end of which the buildings of the
Alberni settlement are seen. The river Somass runs into this basin, and at the
junction there are considerable fiats of good meadow-land.

Several schooners and other vrssels have been built at Alberni. Fish curing has
been carried on to some extent; the abuudunce of salmon and cod in the neighbour'
hood making this a favourable place for such operations. A coasting trade is carried
on with the Indians for furs, oil, fish, and su forth.

A great portion of the area of Vancouver island is unavailable land, perhaps four-
fifths of the whole being barren rock. Heavy and very valuable timber now covers
many fine districts, which, as they become cleared, will become available for cultiva-
tion. The expense of clearing is at present great, from £6 to £14 per acre. The
richer alluvial soils, bearing willow, poplar, and alder, are cheaply and readily cleared

TANCOTJVER ISLAND— GENERAL REMARKS.

888

by fire. In the agricaltnral districts described, there is, howeTer, enongh for fanning
purposes on a small scale, into which the farmer can at once put his plongh ; the
clearing of the timber from the land keeping pace with the wants of a farm, for oat-
bnildings, and other parposes.

Fanning operations are conducted on the same rotation four-course system as in
England. The crops generally raised are wheat, barley, oats, and peas. The green
crops are, turnips, ijaangel-wurzel, vetches, potatoes, and all kinds of vegetables.
Nowhere does the potatoe flourish more or attain a better flavour.

In its soils, Yanconver island possesses all the qualifications necessary for raising
food for man and beast ; and these soils are by no means so limited in extent or
inferior in quality, as to preclude the possibility of the island being a grain producing
eolony. The mineral resources of Yanconver may be summed up as coal, copper, and
possibly silver and gold. The latter is widely spread over the country in {the drift
days and gravels; and of late, auriferous quartz has been found in the neighbourhood
of Yictoria.

The following will give some idea of the resources of Yanconver island in woods of
economic value. The list is according to popular names. White fir, spruce fir, balsam
fir, white pine, yellow pine, cedar, vine-leaved maple, broad-leaved maple, alder, willow,
poplar, yew, logwood, cotton-wood, crab-apple, service-tree, hemlock, oak, arbutus,
yellow cypress, &c. Of all these, the white fir or Douglas pine {Abies Douglasii) is
the most important ; it grows to an enormous size, and is one of the best woods for
spars known. This is the tree of the colony, and it is the commonest on the north-
west coast. The cedars are very fine ; they are found in great abundance both at
Sooke and Nanaimo.

The fisheries will one day prove a source of great wealth to the colony. Extensive
banks lie off the south-western extremity of the island, and also in Puget sound and in
the gulf or strait of Georgia, off Burrard inlet. All of them are well stocked with
fish, especially cod, the true gadus, an excellent fish of its family, small but very good.
In the neighbouring streams and lakes, and surrounding seas, are salmon (five species),
trout (many species), herring, haddock, smelt, halibut, sturgeon, whiting, several
species of rook fish, and sea perch, eulachon, &c.

Maklas «h« Island firam Mawurd. — When approaching Yanconver island directly
from seaward, the mountains will necessarily be the first part of it that will come into
view in clear weather, when they will appear as an unbroken range ; on a nearer
approach it appears thickly wooded, and apparently fertile, intersected with many deep
openings and valleys, which in most cases are some of the inlets already alluded to.
The coast is generally low and rooky, but rises immediately to mountains of con-
siderable height. It is fringed by numerous rocks and hidden dangers, especially near
the entrances of the sounds, and to avoid those the exercise of great caution and
vigilance is requisite ; therefore, on no account (except necessity) should a stranger
attempt to enter any of the harbours or anchorages during night or thick weather.
When about to make the coast, it cannot be too strongly impressed on the mariner to
take every opportunity of ascertaining his vessel's position by astronomical observations,

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SOUTH-WEST COAST OP VANCOUVER ISLAND.

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as fogs and thick weather oome on very suddenly at all times of the year, more especially
daring the summer and antamn months. .

Tidal Current. — ^The flood stream appears to set along the Aoast north-westward,
and the ebb south-eastward ; neither are of great strength, except in the vicinity of
Juan de Fuca strait and Scott islands. Daring the summer months a set is generally
found to the southward, and in winter in the opposite direction, but as a rule the
currents are irregular, and apparently influenced by prevailing winds.

Soundings. — At the entrance of Juan de Fuca strait the 100-fathom edge of the
bank extends upwards of 80 miles from the shore ; it then runs nearly straight in a
N.W. by W. direcikioD, gradually nearing the coast, until abreast cape Cook the depth
of 100 fathoms is within 4 miles of the shore ; north-westward of cape Cook the 100*
fathom edge does not extend more than 10 miles off shore, and southward and west*
ward of Seott islands even less.

The nature of the bottom, when under 100 fathoms, appears to be ganerally of sand
and gravel, and does not differ enough in one part from another to afford any guide
for ascertaining a vessel's exact position on the coast ; the bank, however, extends
sufficiently far from the shore south-eastward of cape Cook to give a seaman due notice
in thick weather of an approach to the land, as the edge of 100 fathoms does not come
within 18 miles of it, and the bank ohoals very gradually.

Tb« ooAar. — The south coast of Vancouver island having been fully described in
the section on Juan de Fuca strait, it remains for us to add a few remarks upon the
hiarbours on the south-west side of the island. For a complete description of these
harbours and the coast, also for the channels separatiug the island from the main land,
we must refer oar readers to the Vancouver Island Pilot and the charts published by
the Admiralty.*

From Bonilla point to cape Beale, the eastern point of entrance to Barclay sound,
the coast trends almost due West 28 miles. At about 6 miles from the point is the
entrance to Nitinat lake, a narrow and shallow channel having a depth of less thau
.12 feet in it, and across which the sea usually breaks with great violence in bad weather.
The lake is of considerable size, extending to the northward. The hills immediately
northward of it are estimated to be 2000 feet high. At 2 miles southward from the
lake the depth is 27 fathoms.

A remarkable waterfall named, Tsusiat, situated on the coast — in lat. 48° 41^',
long. 124" 68', is an important landmark to vessels approaching Juan de Fuca strait
from southward. It can be recognised from a considerable distance.

In long. 125° 8' is a bay named Pachena, having in front of it a small islet, only
10 feet high, known as Sea-bird islet. The bay extends 2 miles in a northerly direc-
tion, is nearly three-quarters of a mile wide, and has a depth of 6 fathoms at the
entrance Bhoaling gradually to 8 feet at its head. It in safe only with winds from the
land, for southerly and south-west winds send in a heavy swell, consequently vessels
Very seldom enter it. At its head is a stream which will admit boats.
• Cap* 8«ai« Ucht. — A light revolving every 80 seconds is exhibited from a square

^ * See the Note at foot of pige 816.

BARCLAY SOUND.

885

tower on cape Beale, the eoatb-east point of the entrance to Barclay Bonnd; it is 164
feet above the sea and visible 10 miles. Position lat. 48° 47' 80", long. 126° 12' 60".

Note. — This light should not be brought to bear to the eastward of E. ^ N. ; as foul
ground extends off the entrances to Barclay sound, and mariners are cautioned not to
attempt to enter Barclay sound at night without local knowledge or a pilot.

BAmoiJiT soiran. — In this extensive inlet are many places where a vessel may lie
at anchor and be completely protected from the prevailing wind. Scattered about it
are islets of various sizes, which are separated generally by passages of depth su£Scient
for ordinary vessels. The sound is 14 miles wide at the entrance and maintains this
breadth for nearly 12 miles inland, when it separates into several narrow inlets or canals,
the most extensive and deepest of which, the Albemi canal, extends 28 miles in a
northerly direction, its head reaching within 14 miles of the eastern or inner coast of
Vancouver island. The depth in front of the settlement at the head of this inlet is
6 to 4 fathoms. The mountains immediately on each side of the inlet are very lofty,
some of their summits reaching an altitude of 8000 feet.

The navigation of Barclay sound is too intricate to be attempted by strangers, unless
in the exercise of very great caution. It is recommended to have the Admiralty
charts Nos. 684 and 692 at hand for reference. It should be observed that generally
speaking the shores are low, except in the northern part and among the canals where
they become high, rugged and mountainous.

BMfli. — The reefs in the entrance to Barclay sound, those most to seaward, and
which may consequently be encountered by vessels sailing along the coast and not
intending to enter the sound, are named Danger, Channel, Western, Black rock. Star-
light, and Humphries. In addition to these a reef extends out from cape Beale, the
east point of entrance, about three-quarters of a mile in a south-easterly direction.

Danger Reef. — This isolated reef is in the south-east part of the entrance to Middle
channel, the wide channel leading into Barclay sound between Deer islands on the east
and Village island on the west. It is 8^ miles from cape Beale in a W. ^ N. direc-
tion, and from it Ship islet (96 feet high), the southernmost of the Deer islands, bears
N.E. by E. i E. distant 2i miles. Its extent is but small, and the sea breaks upon
it in heavy weather. The position of this reef makes it a very dangerous one ; the sea
around it is also very deep, there being soundings of 20 to 40 fathoms almost close to
it. The marks that have been given for clearing it at the distance of about half a mile,
are ; on the ea»t side, Swiss Boy island just open west of Entrance island, bearing
N.N.E. ; on the west side, Mark islet open northward of Bagged island, bearing N.E.
(mount Blenheim, 2408 feet high, i? on the same line of bearing) ; and on the touth
side. Sail rock (100 feet high), in sight westward of Storm island, N.W. by W. i W., —
this mark also leads sonth of Channel reef, the reef mentioned next.

Channel Reef. — This reef lies nearly in the centre of the entrance to Middle channel,
its position being 8^ miles W.| S.from Ship islet, and 1^ miles W.N.W. from Danger
reef. It is about a cable in extent, uncovers at low water, and close to its eastern side
is a depth of 27 fathoms. In the channel between it and Danger rook is a depth of
19 to 60 fathoms. The mark given for clearing Danger rock on the west side dears
this reef on the east side.

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Wtattrn Reef. — ^This reef lies in the soath-west part of the entrance to Middle
channel, its position heing 6i miles W. i S. from Ship islet, and one mile south of the
islands composing Broken groap. It is abont a cable in extent, awash at low water,
and shoald not be approached within half a mile.

Black Rock. — This rock is at the sonth-west side of the entrance to Western channelt
the wide channel into Barclay sound westward of the cluster of islands known as
Broken group. It is 10 feet abore high water, of but Rmall extent, and some sunken
rocks extend from it 2 cables in an easterly direction. From it Sail rock bears N.E. by
E. i E., distant 8^ miles.

Starlight Beef. — This is a cluster of rocks above and under water abont half a mile
westward of Black, rock, its centre being in lat. 48" 63', long. 125° 80^'. It is abont
three-quarters of a mile in extent, and upon it the sea breaks heavily in bad we8,i:l.dr.

Humphries Beef. — This is a cluster of rocks 2 cables in extent, situated abont one
third of a mile southward of Lookout island, an island 160 feet high, on the west side
of the entrance to Ugly channel, the westernmost of the channels into Barclay sound.

In a southerly and westerly direction from Barclay sound is a bank of sand and
gravel which extends 20 to 25 miles from the land and has upon it soundings of 88
to 48 fftthoms. In the middle of this bank is a deep hole, the east part of which is
6 miles sonth-westward from the entrance ; thence the whole extends 19 miles in a
W.S.W. direction, with depths varying from 60 to 100 fathoms. This bank and hole
are a valuable means of ascertaining a vessel's position when approaching the sound
from south-westward in thick weather, as by attention to soundings her position can be
ascertained within a few miles. Southeastward of the entrance to the sound the
water is deeper, there boi^g at a distance of 10 miles from the shore a depth of 60 to
70 :7a'hom8, on sand and mud.

It '<M high water in Barclay sound on the days of full and change at 12h. The rise
sjii i fall of the tide is about 12 feet.

•tha OOA8T. — From Barclay sound the coast trends W. by N. ^ N., about 17^ miles
to point Ck>x, the east point of entrance to Glayoquot sound. The land in the vicinity
of the sea may be considered as rather low, and when viewed from a distance, bears
the appearance of being well wooded; the coast consists alternately of rocky cliffs and
sandy beaches, and has many detached rocks lying at a little distance from it. The
surface of this low country is very uneven, and at a short distance from the sea meets
a compact body of rugged dreary mountains, whose summits are covered with snow
during the greater part of the year, which, says Vancouver, extended on many, though
not on all of them, a considerable way down, and impressed us with no great opinion
of the fertility of the country.

The depth at abont 4 miles off this shore is 20 to 27 fathoms, and it is recommended
when coasting along to give it a berth of not less than 2^ miles.

Point Cox is a rocky projection which may be easily recognised by a hill, named
Vargas cone, 488 feet high ; this rises just within it, and is a conspicuous object when
viewed from the westward. The point ought not to be approached nearer than half a
mile. Vargas cone is in lat. 49° 6' 80", long. 126° 62' 80".

When approaching Glayoquot sound from south-eastward, care is required to avoid

CLAYOQUOT SOUND.

837

'in

the Gowlland reef, consisting chiefly of a elustor of bare rocks, from 10 to 15 feet
above the surface at high tide, situated 2 miles from Vargas cone in a S.E. \ S.
direction. It is three-qnarters oi a mile from the coast, and should have a berth
of at least a mile when passing. Between it and the land are rocks above and under
water.

oiiATOQiroT SOURS is comprised between point Cox, just mentioned, and Sharp
point, a low rocky projection forming the west side of entrance of Sydney islet, the
most western part of the sound. Sharp point forms with the main land on its western
side a narrow inlet, named Refuge cove (subsequently described) ; its extremity is in
lat. 49° 20' 20 ", long. 126° 15' 60". From Cox point to Sharp point the direct bear-
ing and distance are W. by N. } N., 21 miles.

Glayoquot sound is 80 miles long in a westerly direction, and 16 miles broad. It
contains many large islands, one of which, named Flores, is of square form and 7 miles
across. Its shores are broken into several inlets of considerable size and depth, the
most eastern of which is known as Tofino inlet. Fronting the sound are many
dangerous rocks which require due caution to avoid ; at a mile outside these the
depths vary from 20 to SO fathoms.

The mountains in ucd about Glayoquot sound are very lofty, and visible many miles
at sea ; among them, the Gat-face mountains are conspicuous. The latter consist of
a remarkable fiat-top range, which rises on the main shore of Vancouver and fronts
Ship channel, the only passage into the sound that ought to b .' attempted by strangers ;
on its south side are some patches of cliff and have rock. The highest of the Gat-
ittce mountains has an altitude of 8870 feet, and is in lat. 49° 16' 20", long. 125° 59'.
Mount Colnett, in Meares island, is 2616 feet high ; and the most lofty mountain in
Flores island has a height of 8000 feet.

As the navigation of Glayoquot sound is too intricate to be followed by stra*", rs, it
is useless to give a detailed description of its islands and channels ; we thert ^ro loiei'
our readers for a fuller account of it to the Vancouver Island Pilot and the A '■■ iraltj
chart No. 584, without consulting which no shipmaster should attempt to enter. S'^v^o
are several apparently deep channels into the sound, but they are all, with the excep-
tion of Ship channel, tortuous and filled with rocks ; Ship channel is consequently iu6
only safe passage in. The latter channel may be easily recognised in clear weather by
its position with regard to the Cat-face mountains,* but if in doubt, there is generally,
when in its vicinity, little difficulty in obtaining the services of a native of sufficient in-
telligence to pilot a vessel in. Tho inner waters of the sound should only be navigav i
by a steamer or a handy vessel of light draught of water, and the chart is the best
guide. . The following remarks on Ship channel are extracted from the Vancouver
Island Pilot just alluded to.

" Bh: p oiiMui«l lies westward of Vargas island, between it and a number of small
islands and rocks. Its entrance is nearly 11 miles westward of Cox point, and the
channel is 6 miles long in a N.N.E. direction, with a breadth varying from three-
quarters to H miles. The soundings in the south part vary from 20 to 22 fathoms,

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* It Um S.S.W. i W. from the north Bummit of the Cat-faoe range.

998

SOUTH-WEST COAST OF VANCOUVER ISLAND.

i ■

•

decreasing to 6} fathoms in the shoalest part near the north end ; the tide mns
throQgh it from one to 2 knots.

Bare Itltt, at the sonth-east entrance point of the channel, is small, rising to a
snmmit 40 feet high in the centre ; it forms a good mark for identifying Ship channel ;
a roek which breaks lies 5 cables E. by S. from it, but there are 20 fathoms within
half a mile of its sonth-west side.

Plover l^efa, on the east side of the channel half a mile north-westward of Bare
island, are of considerable extent, stretching one mile from the west side of Blnnden
island, and some parts are 6 feet above high water ; there are 5 fathoms at 2 cables
west of them.

Hobbs and Burgess Islets lie at the north-east part of the channel, 2 cables from the
west side of Vargas island, and nearly connected with it at low water ; they are small,
and maybe approached to 2 cables, where are 7 to 8 fathoms water.

Sea Otter rock lies at the sonth-west entrance point of Ship channel, 2 miles W. by N.
from Bare islet ; it is very small, only 6 feet above high water, and there are 5 fathoms
close-to off its east side.

Sliark Beefs, some of which cover, while others are 6 and 10 feet above HgL water,
lie on the west side, 2 miles N.E. by N. of Sea Otter roek ; they are about 8 cables in
extent, and should not be approached nearer than 2 cables on their soath and east
sides ; between them and Sea Otter rock there are 14 to 24 fathoms.

Lawrence Islets, on the west side, nearly 8 miles from Sea Otter rock, are small, low,
and wooded, bat steep-to on the east side.

Bartlett Island, half a mile westward of the Lawrence islets, is low and wooded ;
its shores are much bio^^a, and a number of rooks extend a quarter to half a
mile on all sides of it, and the island ought not to be approached within the latter
distance.

Twin Islands, at the north-west point of Ship channel, 4 miles from Sea Otter rook,
are low, but wooded, and connected at low water ; kelp extends one cable sokith of
them.

Entering Clayoquot sonnd by Ship channel (vhioh latter will eablly be recognised
by Bare islet. Boa Otter rock, and a remarkable summit inland, the Lone cone*),
round either Bare islet or Sea Otter rook at the di»tauce of half a mile, and steer up
the channel with the Twin islands in line with the north summit of the Cat-face
mountains bearing N.N.E. i E.* Keep the above mentioned mark on till within half
a mile of the Shark reefs, when haul more to the eastward for the west extreme of
Vargas island, which may be rounded at a distance of 8 cables. If going on through
Hecate passage into Hecate bay, to clear Half-tide rock keep Hobb islet open west,
of Burgess islet S. by W. i W., until the Twins come in line with the west Whaler
island W. by S., when steer up the passage with that mark on astern, which will lead
north of Half-tide rock and south of the North baiik. When past the latter, steer
through Deep pass, and anchor in Heoate bay midway between its entrance points, in
9 or 10 fathoms.

* Set view D on Admiralty ohkrt N». SUl.

HESQUIAT HARBOUR, &c.

sao

Daring heavy south-westerly gales the sea is said to break right across Ship chai/ucl,
between Lawrence and Hobbs islands."

Befus* OoT* is a very narrow inlet which runs about .1^ miles in a N.N.W. direc-
tion. It is a convenient and easily accessible place of shelter to a vessel embayed
near this part of the coast. There is good anchorage within it in 4 to 5 fathoms,
and protection is afforded from all winds, although those from the S.S.E. blow directly
in. The entrance is narrow but clear of danger, with the exception of a rock 7 feet
under water at nearly 2 cables N.N.W. from the extremity of Sharp point ; to clear
this, keep over to the western side as you sail in, after passing within the point of
entrance.*

When approaching Refuge cove from westward and south-westward it will be necessary
to look out for the Canoe reef, a ledge of rocks just south-westward of the entrance and
three-quarters of a mile westward of the extremity of Sharp point. It is 4 cables
from the shore, and 2 feet above the sea at high tide ; being steep-to on its south and
west sides it must be approached with groat care. Between it and the land is no safe
passage.

" Entering Refuge cove from seaward, bring the ""♦ranee or Sharp point to bear
N.N.W. i W. and steer for it, so as to pass one cable west of the point ; then keep
close to the eastern shore and anchor in ii or 6 fathoms, about 7 or 8 cables within
the entrance." Vancouver Island Pilot.

aesqtuat Buboor. — From Refuge cove the coast trends 7 miles in a W. by N.
direction to Hesquiat bluff on the eastern side of Hosquiat harbour ; — which will be
easily recognised as it is a low wooded point with a shingle beach around it. The
eastern shore of Estevan point, subsequently mentioned, forms the western side of the
bay. The bay extends into the land about 4 miles N.N.W., and is at first upwards of
2 miles mide, it then increases a little in breadth but as its head is approached it con-
tracts in width to less than a mile. The soundings within are 5 to fathoms, and
across the entrance is a bar, 8 cables wide, upon which is a depth of 8 fathoms.
Depths of less than 6 fathoms throughout the bay are generally indicated by the pre-
sence of kelp. The shores of the harbour are low and wooded.

When entering give the shores a berth of more than half a mile, till within the bar,
when they may be approached to the distance of 2 cables. Hesquiat bluff, especially,
requires a wide offing, because a reef, dry only at low tide, extends from it half a mile
in a south-westerly direction ; this roof has a depth of 5 fathoms close to its extremity.
Having passed within the bar, anchorage may be obtained in any cunveniont part, but
the best place is near the centre of the harbour, at about half a milo from Boat basin
at its head ; here the depth is 8 to 7 fathoms, on sand.

Boat basin is a little creek having a depth of 4 fathoms. A stream falls into it
from which good water may bo procured if necessary.

Hesquiat harbour is of access to sailing vessels even with a foul wind. Although
during strong emth or south-westerly winds thu nm broiilvH heavily upon the bar, the
sea within is comparatively smooth ; hence the anchorage is always safe. A lauding ia
at all times practicable in Boat basin.

■Hi

* See the plan of tlie cove in the o'mrt No. 684.

840

SOUTH-WEST COAST OF \ANCOUVER ISLAND.

The moaDtains on the east and north sides of the harbour are very lofty. That
named Leading mountain at the head of the harbour is 2726 feet high ; if this peak is
brought to bflu N. bj W. ^ W., it will lead across the bar clear of all sunken dangers
on either side, but directly over a i^mall spot of 8 fathoms.

fisUraa PelBt, on the western side of Hesqniat harbour, terminates in a low wooded
projection, bordered by a sandy beach strewn with boulders. Its south-west point,
Hole in the Wall, is in lat. 49° 22' 7", long. 126° 32' 82" ; it is so named on account
of a remarkable gap in the trees at its extremity, which is conspicnons when viewed
fruir* the south-westward. At Ij miles due South from this gap the depth is 20 to 27
fathoms, sand, stoues, and gravel, on "u ?u ?t6 i bottom.

From the western side of Estevan fciJ. % hiifi^ of rocks extends out upwards of a
mile, and outside this at a short dist&c ' u; i-> duaken rock, named Sunday rock ; hence
this side of the point must have a wide berth, indeed, it will not be prudent to approach
it nearer than 2 miles. From the extremity of Estevan point to the entrance of Nootka
sound the distance is 18 miles.

HOOTXA sotnro. — This extensive inlet contains some of the best sheltered and
most commodious anchorages on the west coast of Vancouver island ; it has, however,
lost the importance that once attached to it. The inlet proper is a sheet of water of
about 6 miles in extent, containing several islands, and from its north and north-east
sides deep narrow canals with precipitous shores extend into the land 7 to 18 miles.
The depth over the sound is generally about 80 fathoms, but there are parts where
there is mncb more water. In consequence of this gr-iat, depth the middle of the
sound is not suitable for anchorage, and vessels are oM; "- )o seek the little bays and
inlets formed by the shores and islets. The fr 'lort,;' usually resorted to are
Friendly cove (jnst within the entrance of the so id, ■->}•. \'h ivestem side) ; Marvinas
bay (on the same side of the sound at about 4 mileti i'::i-" )!';:'.oudly cove) ; Plumper
harbour (2 miles from Marvinas bay, and at th^ cuirancv. U? .^ndrick arm) ; Besola-
tion cove (just within the sound, at the ^uuth-east end of Bligh island) ; Deserted
creek (in Tlupana arm); and Head bay (at the northern termination ofTlupaua arm) ;
— it is however seldom that vessels enter the sound so far as to attain either Kendrick
arm or Tlupana arm.

The entrance to Nootka sound lies between Escalante and Maquinna points, distant
from each otner 4 miles in a W. by N. i N., au(? ^'. by S. i S. direction. Escalante,
the eattem point, is low and rooky, and has Si' c 't'oall ialcts and rocks off it to the
distance of upwards of a mile. Maquinna point '>< ' u \)w und wooded, and has at its
extremity a remarkable bare-topped conical rock C" <.r 70 feet high ; — some rocks ox-
tend 8 cables from it in a^. oa Hfrly direction, and as there are also rocks along the coast
from it eastwhi'd m !.]^' ".s far <s the entrance of Friendly cove, the shore ought not to
be approached neeter thaL' tb. nb Aiuarters of a mile till near Lhe latter place.

The narrowest part of tae untrance to the souiul is at Friundly covq, whore the distance
to Bnrdwood point on the opponite shore is only 2 miles. From this point to Esca-
lante point the shore is bordered by rooks, and when entering the Houud should have a
berth of at least a mile until cluse to Bnrdwood point, which (as it is steep and clear
of rocks with the exception of Aose at its base) may be rounded at the distance of
U OAblea.

NOOTKA SOUND, &o.

841

Bajo Point and Beef. — From Maquinna point the coast trends almost due West
6.} miles to Bajo point, a low rocky projection forming the extreme soath-west point of
Nootka island ; this point is outside the entrance to the sound, and is mentioned here
because it (with its surrounding reef) is a prominent danger to vessels approaching tho
sound from westward. A ledge, named the Inner Bajo reef, lies 1| miles from the
point in a southerly direction ; the outer edge of this reef has a depth of 12 fathoms
close to it, and it is believed that there is no safe passage between it and the shore.
In addition to the rocks surrounding Biyo point, there is a very dangerous reef at about
8 miles S.S.E. from the point, upon which the sea breaks in heavy weather ; it is
named B^jo reef, is about 2 cables in extent, and from it Maquinna point bears N.E. by
E. i E., distant 6 miles.

Bajo reef has deep water of 8 to 10 fathoms at a very moderate distance ftom it, and
as the sea does not always break over it tho greatest care is required when in its
vicinity. The mark to clear it at the distance of 1^ miles on its south-east side is
Yuquot point, the east extreme of Nootka island, kept open eastward of Maquinna
point, N.E. \ E. ; and at If miles on its west side, Bight cone (a remarkable summit
on the south side of Nootka island) kept well open west of Bajo point, N. by W.

rricadiT OoT* is about 2 cables in extent and sheltered from the sea by a small
rocky high-water island on its east side. The entrance to it is from the north-east*
ward, and only a cable wide. The anchorage within is in 9 to 5 fathoms, and of such
limited extent that there is only room for one vessel of moderate size to lie moored in
the middle, though several very small ones would find shelter. The shores on both
sides of the cove are rocky a.d about GO feet high on the north side; at its head is a
small space of clear cultivated flat laud, around which during summer the natives build
an extensive village.

If intending to anchor in this cove, round Observatory islet*, the east entrance
point, ciose-to. A large vessel should moor with anchors S.S.W. and N.N.E., letting
go tho first immediately on entering the cove. Sailing vessels, unless with a fair wind,
would find some difficulty in entering ; if unable to shoot in, it would be preferable to
warp or proceed farther up the sound to Plumper harbour.

This place was visited in 1887 by Sir E. Belcher, B.N., who says, "We anchored
in Friendly cove, Nootka sound, the very interesting point of Cook and Vancouver's
operations. At first I doubted my senses, that so small a space could have occupied
so much type, and until I had examined it myself in my boat, did not think that it
could afford shelter to two vessols. However, by placing one anchor outHide, one well
in, and the streura cable ti the rocks, tho Sulphur became well secure, with tho Star-
li>iij within us. Tho greatest distance between any two points does not exceed a
qnarter of a mile, and mostly rocky."

aKarvinas Bay. — From Friendly cove tho distance to Marvinas bay is 4 miles in a
N.N.W. direction. Tho coast between is rocky, and in its south part has some islets
at A short distance off and puralle 1 to it. There are two bmall creeks with entrances

* Tho geographical position of thin rook U lat. W 86' 81", long. 136' 87' 83". For Nootka
sound, $te tho Adiuirall^ charta .\oi. 661) au>l lOlfi.

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842

SOUTH-WEST COAST OF VANCOUVER ISLAND.

too narrow for a vessel to enter; the northernmost of them, the Booa del Infiemo, lies
ahreast the north part of the above-mentioned islands, and 1} miles from Friendly
cove.

Marvinas bay is open to sonthward, and only large enough to adinit a coaster ; there
is a large fresh-water stream at the head and jnst south of it, convenient for watering.
In former times this bay was in considerable repute, for although farther from the sea
than Friendly cove, it possesses over it several advantages in point of security and
accommodation. The land in its vicinity continues to be low to a greater distance
than about Friendly cove, and is apparently composed of less rocky materials. The
harbour being well protected against all winds, and its distance from the ocean pre-
venting it being much affected by the swell, a vessel can ride in it in perfect security ;
and as there is a fair navigable channel from it in a southerly direction, a vessel can
leave whenever the land-wind prevails sufficiently to enable it to clear the sound,
with infinitely more ease than from Friendly cove; out of which it is frequently
necessary to first warp a considerable distance, and where there is anchorage not only
in an inconvenient depth of water, but on an uneven rocky bottom, in addition to
which, in the event of the wind suddenly setting strongly in from the sea, the situation
becomes by no means pleasant. The departure from Friendly cove, although not
difficult in summer, is said to be subject in winter to great inconvenience, and indeed
danger, from the heavy sea that rolls in stormy weather into the sound, especially
during the S.E. gales, against which, from its vicinity to the ocean, it is not sufficiently
protected.

nomper Harbotur, a small bay on the east side of Nootka island, is about 8 cables
in extent and affords good anchorage in 12 fathoms. It is protected on the east side
by two small wooded islets from 80 to 40 feet high ; on the west side the shore is
rather swampy, and there are several fresh-water streams.

The passage between the two islets is clear ; vessels may also pass northward of the
northern one, passing it at a cable's length, and being careful to avoid a 10-foot reef
which extends from the shore. When inside, there is room for a vessel to ride at
single anchor. This is the best anchorage in the sound, its only drawback being its
distance from the sea.

xaaoiuuon Gov* is only a slight bend in the coast, and is a very inconvenient
anchorage for largo vesseld, being exposed to south-westward. The bottom is deep
and rocky. It is named after one of Captain Cook's vessels which was refitted here
in 1778.

B«Mrt«d Crack is 2 miles long in a westerly direction, and at its entrance, on the
north shore, is a covo, named Island bay (from the circumstance that there is an islet
in its centre). The best aiichorago in tho crook is in 12 to 14 fathoms, at about one-
third of a mile from tho stream which fulls into its head ; vessels may also anchor in
Island cove, in 12 fathoms, on the west side of the islet. At both places there is good
shelter from all winds.

Btad Bay is nearly a mile long in a westerly direction and 4 cables wide. At
its entrance on the northern side are three small islets just above the surface at high
lido, tho inner oqo of which is connected to tho shore by a sandy flat dry at low water.

HMH

Si:

NOOTKA SOUND, &o.

848

The anchorage is in 14 to 16 fathoms at about one-third of a mile from the head of
the bay, and is well protected from all winds.

In the bay eastward of Head bay, formed by Perpendicalar head and the coast north-
ward of it, vessels may anchor in 16 to 18 fathoms. Perpendicular head is very lofty,
its summit being 2600 feet high.

siraetioas. — The land surrounding Nootka sound presents to the seaman in fine
weather many striking features, which render it almost impossible for him to mistake
the sound for any of the numerous inlets on the west coast of Vancouver island.
Estevan and Maquiuna points are both low and have breakers o£f them; the peculiar
shaped hill, Nootka cone, 1619 feet high, situated almost immediately behind Friendly
eove, is a remarkable object, and when N.N.E. (the bearing upon which it would be
seen when making the sound from seaward) is very conspicuous. Mount Lombard,
behind Burdwood point, is 8000 feet high ; and E.N.E. from this is mount AlbermarlA,
8756 feet high. Gonuma peak, in the interior behind the sound, in lat. 49° 49^',
long. 126° 18', has an altitude of 4889 feet and can be seen from a considerable dis-
tance ; its summit is steeple-shaped.

The soundings at the entrance to the sound vary from 60 to 40 fathoms. South-
ward of the entrance, and extending 6 miles westward of Estevan and Escalante points,
is a bank of 22 to 80 fathoms, deepening gradually in a south-westerly direction. In
the vicinity of Bajo reef, and westward of it, are from 20 to 27 fathoms ; but at the
distance of 7 miles southward from Nootka island is a depth of 40 to 60 fathoms. In
fine weather, the natives will be met with in canoes in considerable numbers on these
banks fishing for halibut, which are very plentiful along this coast.

Approaclimg tlve sound from southward, after rounding Estevan point steer about
N.N.W. for the entrance, which will be easily distinguished by the rocks off Escalante
and Maquiuna point ; keep about 2 miles from the eastern shore till past Escalante
point, and then steer up in mid-channel into the sound.

If bonud to Friendly cove haul over to the west side of entrance for Yuquot point,
which may be approached to the distance of a cable; round the islets sharply, and
anchor or moor in the core, as most convenient, in 9 to 5 fathoms.

If bound to Plumper harbour, after passing Yuquot point keep about half a mile
from the north-east side of Nootka island, on a N.N.W. or N. by W. course for a
distance of 6 miles to the entrance of Kendrick arm; steer up the latter in mid-channel
till abreast Plumper harbour, which may be entered by passing between Bold and
Pass islets (the ielots fronting it on its oast side) or by going northward of the former.
Anchor in 1 1 to 1 2 fathoms near the centre of the harbour.

Should it be desired to anchor in any of the anchorages within Tlupanii arm, steer
as before directed till wiiliiu half a mile of the entrance to Kendrick arm; haul then
to the north-eastward, pass westward of Junction and Bligh islands, and steer up
Tlupana arm in mid-chaunol, or closo-tu on cither shore. Deserted creek and Head
bay arc dear of danger and may ho entered without difficulty ; if provided with the
chart no directions whalovor are necessary.

Knterinrf Noolica aniiiid from ueiilwind, on uearing Biyo point do not approach tlio
south shore of Nootku island within -1 miles, nor shut in Bight couo with lia^o point

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SOUTH-WEST COAST OF VANCOUVER ISLAND.

N. by W. until Ynqnot point comes open eaatward of Maqainna point N.E. ^ E.,
which will clear the Bajo reef; a vessel may then steer for the entrance of the Boand,
abont N.E. by E., not approaching the shore between Maqainna and Ynqnot points
nearer than a mile, nntil breast the latter, which may be roonded close-to; proceed
then ap the sonnd as before directed.

If beating into Nootka sonnd, when standing to the westward, keep Ynqnot point
open eastward of Maqainna point N.E. ^ E., as this will keep a vessel v6\l clear east-
ward of Bajo reef. In standing to the eastward do not approach Escalante point
within 1^ miles, nor bring Bnrdwood point northward of N. by E. nntil abreast it,
when the shore may be approached close-to. When standing towards Maqainna and
Ynqnot points on the west side, avoid bringing the latter to bear eastward of N.N.E.
until abreast it, when it may be approached close-to.

Nootka sonnd is the easiest place of access on the whole of the west coast of Van-
ooaver island, the entrance being nearly 2 miles wide in the narrowest part; and by
attending to the above directions any sailing vessel may beat in or out of the sonnd.
Provided with a chart, if the night be clear, it may be entered without risk by bringing
the entrance to boar N.N.E., and in a steamer bat little difficulty would be experienced
in picking up the anchorages of Friendly cove and Plumper harbour.

liircBAVZ.ZTZ ufUiT. — Point Ferrer, the west point of Nootka island, is a low
and rocky projection, which may be readily recognised when viewed from westward by
a remarkable hill 850 feet high immediately eastward of it ; this hill has a conical
summit, is known as the North-west cone, and is situated in lat. 49° 44' 50", long.
126° 58' 50". The depth at about 2 cables south-westward from the extremity of the
point is 14 fathoms.

Nnchatlitz inlet runs into the shore of Nootka island north of Ferrer point, about
10 miles in a N.E. i E. direction. It is 8 miles wide at the entrance and gradually
narrows towards its head. Its shores are high aud rocky, and much broken into creeks
and small bays, in some of which there is doubtless shelter for small vessels. The
depth is 17 to 5 fathoms, the latter being in- Mary basin at 6^ miles from point Ferrer;
in Inner basin, eastward of Mary banin, the depth is 40 to 18 fathoms.

The only place that can be recommended as an anchorage in the inlet ir< a small
bay on its north side, named port Laiigford. The depth here is 8 to 6 fathoms.
Vessels anchor at about half a mile from its head in 6 fathoms, mad, and are well pro-
tected from almost all winds.

In the entrance to the inlet are several rooks and detached reefs ; hence strangers
. should not attempt to enter without a pilot. There is generally a heavy sea over and
about these reefs. =)<

asraHAivzA iiriiBT. — This inlet lies between tho north-west side of Nootka
island and the main of Vancouver; it is about 16 miles long in a winding north-
easterly direction, and its average breadth is about one mile, narrowing at the head,
which is connected by a narrow pass, Tah-sis narrows, to the Tab-sis canal in Nootka
sound.

Bee the Admiralty oharli Nos. 680 and 660 for NuohaUiti and Eipannia inleU.

ESPERANZA INLET.

845

The sbores are nearly everywhere steep-to, rising on both sides to monntnins of
considerable height. The sonthem shore is indented by three bays of moderate
extent, which however afiford no anchorage ; and from the northern one three arms of
considerable length penetrate the Yanconver shore for several miles in a N.N.W.
directbn. In the western arm, named port Eliza, is the only anchorage within the
islet.

The sonndings in the entrance vary from 12 to 20 fathoms, deepening within to
upwards of 100 fathoms in many j>art8. Scattered about the entrance to this and
Nuchatlit2 inlet are the following dangers, Danger rock, Nuchatlitz reef, South reef,
Blind reef, Needle rock. Middle reef, Low rock, Black rock, besides others between
Gatala island and Tat-chn point, the western limit of Esperanza inlet.

Danger Rock, situated upwards of a mile N.W. i W. from Ferrer point, is the worst
danger in the entrance to Nuchatlitz inlet, as it is of very small extent, and only breaks
in heavy weather. It is steep-to on all sides, there I eing 11 fathoms close to it.
Mark hill, at the head of the inlet, on with the nort'T part of Fitz island bearing
N.E. i E. leads south of this rock, also midway between it and Ferrer point, and
through the fairway into the inlet.

Nuchatlitz Beef, in the centre of the entrance to Nuchatlitz inlet and a third of a
mile north of- Danger rock, is about three-quarters of a mile long in an E.N.E.
and W.S.W. direction, and a cable wide. This reef generally breaks, and at its inner
extremity is a small rock awash at high water. There is a clear deep passage between
it and Danger rock, and also one apparently northward of it, but neither should be
attempted by a stranger, as no leading marks ^an be given for going through them.

South Reef. — This reef lies just within the entrance to Nuchatlitz inlet on the south
side, at one mile N.E. by N. from Ferrer point aud about 8 cables off shore; it is nearly
2 cables in extent, and covers at half flood. Mark hill, on with the north summit of
Fitz island, bearing N.E. ^ E. leads 2 cables north of it.

Blind Reef lies at the south-east extreme of Middle channel, the principal entrance
to Esperanza inlet. It is 8 miles N.W. i W. from Ferrer point, is about 2 cables in
extent, and only breaks in bad weather. At a cable northward of it is a small rock,
aud at the distance of 2 cables from its south and west sides is a depth of 18 to
19 fathoms.

Needle Rock. — This small rock lies two-thirds of a mile North of the Middle reef;
at the distance of 2 cables westward from it is a depth of 14 to 16 fathoms.

Middle Beef lies at the south-west entrance point of Middle uhannel and separates
it from the North channel ; it is about 8 cables long in a northerly direction, and a
cable wide. This reef generally breaks, and at its south extremity is a small rock
4 feet above high water; this part of the reeC lies 4 miles N.W. by W. \ W. from
Ferrer point. The depth at about a cable from the reel on all sides is 5 to 20 fathoms.

Leading hill in line with Black rock N. by W. leads two-thirds of a mile west of
Blind reef, one mile west of Needle rock, half a mile east of Middle reef, and through
the fairway of Middle channel.

Low Rock. — This rock is distant nearly a mile due West from Middle reef, and the
depth between is about 20 fathoms. It is 6 feet above water at high tide, aud is

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846

SOUTH-WEST COAST OF VANCOUVER ISLAND.

steep-to. It is the outermost of the dangers off the sonth-west side of Catala island,
and consequently most to seaward. From it the Twins bear N. by E. i E., 1^ miles ;
the space between is all foal groand, — among the rocks is the outer Black rock,
10 feet high.

Black Rock, 20 feet above the surface at high tide, is situated a third of a mile
eastward of the east point of Catala island; between is no safe channel, and there is
also foul groand at a cable south of it. The eastern side of this rock should not be
approached nearer than 2 cables, nor should an attempt be made to go westward of it.

Half-tide and Obstruction Reefs, dc., — The space between Catala island and Tat-oha
point, distant from each other 8| miles, is occupied by numerous reefs of which Half-
tide and Obstraction are farthest from the land ; hence it should always have a wide
berth. Tat-cha point is in lat. 49° 51^', long. 127° 10' ; it is a cliffy projection of
coast and has a reef at its base extending nearly half a mile out. At 1^ miles inland
from the point is Eliza dome, a remarkable mountain 2819 feet high; which is a very
conspicuous object from seaward.

DUrMtieas. — The reefs fronting Esperanza inlet form two channels, each having
sufficient depth and breadth for the largest vessels; Middle channel is, however, the
widest. It is only in the western arm of the inlet, port Eliza, that anchorage can be
obtained, and here vessels may lie in perfect security from all winds. The usual and
best place to ride in is at about half a mile from its head, in 14 to 16 fathoms; but
anchorcige may also be obtained in Queen cove, a small inlet on the east side of the
port at rather more than a mile from the entrance. The following sailing directions
are from the Vancouver Island Pilot, and should be ased in connection with the
Admiralty charts already referred to.

" A stranger entering Esperanza inlet from the southward, through the Middle
channel, and intending to anchor in port Eliza, should pass Ferrer point at a distance
of about 8 miles, and keep on a northerly course till nearing the entrance of Middle
channel, when steer to bring Leading hill in line with Black rock N. by W., which
will lead through the fairway, and clear of the dangers on both sides of the channel.
When the south point of Catala island bears W.N.W., the vessel will be inside the
dangers at entrance, and should keep about N.N.E. for the entrance of port Eliza,
passing from 2 to 8 cablos east of Double island. In entering the port steer through
Birthday channel, passing a cable east of Harbour island ; when past the east point of
the latter, keep about N.W. by N. for the entrance of Queens cove, or farther over to
the eastern shore, to avoid Channel reef ; in entering the cove, pass to the west of the
island at its entrance, and moor immediately the vessel is inside, anchors N.W.
and S.E.

If going to the head of port Eliza, keep on as before directed till within a cable of
Queens cove, when haal sharply to the westward, keeping about one cable off the east
shore, till Fairway island comes on with the east point of Harbour island S.E. by E.,
when the vessel will be wes' ' Channel reef, and may steer up the port in mid-channel,
anchoring near the centre, ui>out 4 or 6 cables from the head, in 15 or 16 fathoms.

No sailing vessel of any size should attempt to enter port Eliza unless with a steady
fair wind.

<H'

KYUQUOT SOUND.

347

If bound to Rolling roadstead, enter the Middle channel as before directed, bnt
inntead of steering for the -entrance of port Eliza, keep on a N. by W. or N. ^ W.
coarse (passing about a quarter of a mile east of Black rock), until the outer extreme
of the islets off the north-west part of Gatala island comes open north of the low grassy
point on its north side bearing W. by S., when haul in for the roadstead on that mark,
which will lead midway between Arnold and Entrance reefs ; anchor in 6 fathoms,
with the extremes of Catala island bearing W.S.W. and S.E. by S.

Entering Esperanza inlet from the westward, keep an offing of 2^ or 8 miles from
Catala island (if Kynquot hill bo made out, by keeping it open west of Tat-chn point,
N.W. by W., a vessel will be well clear of any dangers off Catala island), till Double
island comes in line with Black rock, N. by E. i E., and entering the inlet through
the North channel with this mark on, which will lead in clear of danger. When the
Twins bear W. by N., haul more to the eastward, passing a quarter of a mile outside
the Mid and Black rocks, and steer for Boiling roadstead or port Eliza as before
directed.

If the weather be clear and the marks can be made out, both North and Middle
channels are equally good, the latter being wide enough for a vessel to beat through,
though it would be a hazardous thing for a stranger to attempt, as no turning marks
can be given.

Generally a heavy swell prevails off the entrance of the Nuchatlitz and Esperanza
inlets, and no sailing vessel should attempt to enter, or leave either of them, unless
with a steady fair or leading wind.

Soundings from 20 to 40 fathoms will be found extending for nearly 20 miles west-
ward from the entrances of Nuchatlitz and Esperanza inlets ; to the S.S.W., at a
distance of 10 miles off shore, are from 70 to 80 fathoms."

KTUQVOT mojrm. — From Tat-chu point the coast trenas 7 miles in a N.W.
by W. direction to Bagged point on the eastern side of the entrance to Eyuquot sound.
It is indented by several small bays, in some of which boats may find shelter ; and,
fronting it are some islets and reefs, so that it should always have a wide berth. The
danger farthest to seaward, East Entrance reef, is 2^ miles from the land, and has a
depth of about 20 fathoms close to it ; it is 4 feet above the surface at high tide.

The sound is a large broken sheet of water extending 14 and 16 miles inland in two
large arms, and several smaller ones. The large inland at the entrance, named Union,
is 1848 feet high ; it divides the entrance into two channels, of which the eastern one
only is fit for large vessels ;, there are also several islands of smaller size within. The
shores are generally rocky, and very much broken, rising to mountains 2000 and 4000
feet high.

The soundings outside the sound vary from 40 to 20 fathoms, generally on sand ;
at the entrance the depth is from 40 to 60 fathoms, but within the depths increase in
many places to upwards of a 100 fathoms. There are three anchorages, Narrowgat
and Easy creeks, and Fair harbour, the two latter being of considerable size but at a
distance of 18 and 10 miles from the sea ; the former is very small, and only 6 miles
within the sound, on its eastern side.

The eastern (Kyuquot) channel leads into the sound eastward of Union island. It

'■H

848

SOUTH-WEST COAST OF VANCOUVER ISLAND.

is nearly straight, aboat 6 miles long in a N.N.E. direction, and its breadth is little
less than a mile. The soundings within it vary from 80 to upwards of 40 fathoms,
increasing gradually to the inner part. When mnning through, keep in mid-channel
and all danger will be avoided. It is, however, to be remarked that no sailing vessel
should attempt the channel unless with a steady fair or leading wind, as generally a
heavy swell prevails outside, which in a light wind would render her position critical ;
and no stranger should attempt to enter nnless provided with the Admiralty charts
(Nos. 588 and 717), the weather clear, and the leading mark for the channel well
made oat. This mark is the summit of Leading island midway between Bagged and
Chat-channel points, bearing N. by E. } E.

BABXXBB irnxuLxma. — Faci ag this part of tho shore of Vancouver is a multitode of
islets and rocks, which extend n some parts asmnch as 6 miles from tho land. They
commence at 2 miles westward from Tat-ohu point, and continue for nearly 20 miles
along the land in a W.N.W . direction, or as far as the inlets on the east side of
Brooks peninsula. Through them are two known navigable channels, the Eyuquot
(into Eyuquot sound) and Halibut (leading to Clan-ninick harbour), but as a rule no
stranger should venture into them, or among the islands, unless the weather be clear,
and there is a pilot on board.

Highest island, one of the Barrier group, lying 2 miles south of Union island, is a
remarkable bare rock 98 feet high, and useful in identifying the Eyuquot channel. It
is in lat. 49° 57' 45", long. 127° 21' 80".

Table island, on the east side of Halibut channel, is the largest of the Barrier
islands, being nearly half a mile in extent, and about 150 feet high; some rocks,
mostly above water, extend half a mile from its south side, the outer one being 50 feet
high, with 15 fathoms 2 cables west of it. Trap bluff on the west side of the island
is conspicuous.

Half a mile eastward of Table island is an anchorage for small vessels having a
depth of 4 to 6 fathoms. It is tolerably sheltered by some islands, and much used
by coasters in summer months ; the entrance to it being rather intricate, no stranger
should attempt to enter.

In thick weather it is imprudent to stand nearer the Barrier islands than the depth
of 40 fathoms.

ov-ov-KXirBB and irABPABTi XRXiiiTS. — These iulets are in the bay eastward of
and under the broad and lofty promontory of which cape Cook is the south-west ex-
tremity ; Nasparti is the westernmost inlet. In neither is there anchorage except
with winds from the land, and access to both is too difficult to be attempted by a
stranger. Facing the approach to them are many rocks and detached reefs, causing
heavy breakers when the wind blows strongly on shore. The outermost of these
dangers, Sulivan reef, is a patch of rocks situated in lat. 60° 4' 80", long. 127° 41' ;
it is nearly 8 miles outside the entrance of Ou-ou-kiush inlet, 2i miles W. by S.
from Clara islet, and nearly 4 miles S.S.E. of Hat island in Nasparti inlet. This
patch is about half a mile in extent East and West, and steep>to — there being a depth
of 10 to 11 fathoms close around it.

The entrance to On-ou-kinsh inlet open N.N.E. leads 1^ miles eastward of Sulivan

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BROOKS PENINSULA, BROOKS BAY, &c.

8(9

reef; Solander island off cape Cook jast open or uhnt in by the land east of the cape
bearing West, leads 1^ miles southward of it ; Hat island, in the entrance of Nasparti
inlet, in line with a sammit on the west side of the latter, bearing North, leads 1^ miles
westward of it ; and Hat island seen between the Haystacks N.W. by N., leads three-
quarters of a mile north-east of it. The reef is extremely dangerous as it is only
occasionally that the sea breaks over it.

BBOOK8 PBinirsv&A. — Westward of Nasparti inlet is Brooks peninsula, a lofty
promontory of an oblong shape, which projects into the sea in a S.S.W. direction
about 9 miles ; its breadth is 6 miles. The shores are generally very rocky, and rise
almost abrupt!* to upwards of 2000 feet, while its mountains are from 2500 to 8000
feet high. Off it are several dangers, some of which extend upwards of a mile from
shore ; of these, Banks reef, at three-quarters of a mile from its south coast, is dry
until three-quarters flood.

- Cap* Oeok, the south-west extremity of Brooks peninsula, and the most projecting
point of the outer coast of Vancouver island, rises abruptly from the sea to a summit
1200 feet high. At nearly a mile westward from it lies Solander island, which is
bare, 680 feet high, and has two sharp summits ; between it and the cape the channel
is filled with rocks, hence no attempt should be made to go eastward of the island.
BoUnder island is in lat. 50° 6' 31", long. 127° 57' 20".

The depth at about 2 miles off cape Cook and at the same distance off the south
side of the peninsula, is 20 to 90 fathoms ; as a rule no vessel should approach nearer.

BBOOKB BAT. — The bay on the north-west side of Brooks peninsula is about
12 miles wide, and 6 miles deep. In it are several rooks above and under water, upon
which account it should not be entered. In its two inlets, Klaskish and Klaskino,
vessels may anchor but as these anchorages are difficult of access, no shipmaster should
attempt either unless embayed and unable to get out of the bay. Brooks bay is quite
open to all winds from westward, and when these prevail with any strength a tremen-
dous seals sent la.

CUrke Eeejr \i about 6 miles northward of cape Cook are two islets, Single and
Double, of which the latter is distant from the shore about a mile. Outside these are
Clerke reefs, a cluster partly above the surface, extending 2 miles from the land and
occupying an extent of fully 2 miles ; these reefs are extremely dangerous, and should
alwayj have a wide berth, — to clear them at the distance of a mile on the west side, do
not approach them nearer than when the extremity of cape Cook bears S.S.E. i E. ;
and at the distance of 1^ miles on the north side, Small islet, on the north side of the
entrance to Klaskish inlet, should be brought in one with Leading cone, a hill 500 feet
high, situated at the head of the inlet, N.E. by E. ^ E.

Ship Bock. — This is a rock of very limited extent situated about 8 miles N.N.W.
from Clerke reefs, and in nearly the centre of Brooks bay ; it is consequently 2 miles
from shore, and from its position a very dangerous reef to vessels bound into either
Klaskino or ELlaskish inlets. The depth close to its southern and eastern sides is 17 to
20 fathoms, and upon it the sea generally breaks heavily. To clear it at nearly three-
quarters of a mile on its south side, bring small islet in line with Leaaing cone
(already mentioned), N.E. by E. i E. ; and at nearly 2 miles on its north-west side>

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SOUTH-WEST COAST OF VANCOUVER ISLAND.

Twenty-foot rock (at the entrance of Klaskino inlet), in line with the lower part of the
stripe in Bed Stripe moantain (on the north shore of that inlet), N.N.E. } E.

QVATsnvo 80VHB is at about 8 miles north-westward from Klaskino inlet, round
s projecting point of land, of which Lawn point (a low shore, having rocks extending
from it about half a mile in an easterly direction) is the extremity. Immediately
within Lawn point the land is very lofty, being about 1900 feet high ; the depth at a
short distance outside the rocks is 10 to 20 fathoms.

Qnatsino sound is an extensive and very deep inlet, containing in many parts good
well-sheltered anchorages. The shores are generally lofty, and near the sea very
irregular ; Gap mountain, on the east side of entrance rises in two peaks, of the
respective heights of 2204 and 2088 feet ; the mountain over the west point of
entrance is not less than 1275 feet high ; and Nose peak on the north side of the
entrance is 1780 feet high, and easily recognised by its sharp rocky summit. These
lofty mountains render it by no means diT ^ult to distinguish the entrance, especially
when viewed directly from southward.

The extent of Quatsino sound is npvt„. ^i 25 miles in a north-easterly direction.
The breadth is at first nearly 6 miles, narrowing to less than a mile at a distance of
6 miles within ; it then runs in a north-easterly direction 18 miles, when it branches
off in two arms, one extending to the south-eastward for 12 miles, and terminating in
low land. The other lies northward of, and is connected with, the sound by a straight
narrow pass about 2 miles long ; its length is 22 miles in an east and west direction,
and the eastern extreme, Rupert arm, is only 6 miles distant from Hardy bay on the
north-east side of Vancouver island ; the western part terminates within 12 miles of
San Josef bay on the outer coast. Just within the entrance of the sound on the north
side is Forward inlet, a much smaller arm, about 6 miles long in a northerly direction,
and containing the best anchorages of the sound.

The soundings in the entrance, and from 8 to 6 miles outside, vary from 80 to 70
fathoms, but within they deepen in many places to upwards of 100 fathoms. There
are several dangers along the south shore at the entrance ; in the fairway are two very
dangerous rocks, which only break in heavy weather, and it requires great caution on
the part of the navigator to avoid them when entering or leaving the eonnd.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Quatsino sound at llh. ; the rise and
&11 of the tide is about 11 feet.

The islands and reefs at the entrance to Quatsino sound are the following : — Danger
rocks. Entrance island. Pinnacle island. Surf islets, Bare islets, and Pilley shoal.
Within Forward inlet on the western side ai'e Low islets and Robson island.

Danger Rocks. — These small rocks are at about a mile within the entrance, nearly
in the fairway, and consist of tw<^ very dangerous pinnacles steep-to on all sides.
North Danger lies 7 cables E.N.E. from Entrance island, and breaks at low water.
South Danger is half a mile S.E. of the north rock, and is awash at low water spring
tides ; — there is deep water between them.

Pinnacle islet in one with the east point of Low islands (in Forward islet), bearing
N.N.W. } W., leads nearly 4 cables westward of Danger rocks, and midway between
the north rock and Entrance island. Robson island in Forward inlet, open north of

QDATSINO SOUND.

861

I!'

Entrance Mount point N.W. by W. i W., leads 8 to 4 cables eaatward of the rocks.
Village islet, on the east side of For7'«rd inlet, just touching Brown point, N.W..
leads sbont three-quarters of a mile eastward of them, and midway between them rmd
the Surf islands. Bedwell inlets, within the sonnd on the north side, open north of
Bold blnff bearing N.E., leads a quarter of a mile northward of North Danger rock ;
and Bold bluff in line with the gap in the centre of Surf islands, bearing N. by E. f E.,
leads nearly a mile south-eastward of South Danger.

As the sea very seldom breaks over Danger rocks, great caution is required when
entering or leaving Quatsino sound, to avoid them. Between the rocks and Surf
islands the passage is Ij^ miles wide, and clear of danger.

Entrance Island is a small rocky islet, about 140 feet high and covered with a few
stunted trees, situated on the north-west side of the entrance to the sound at about a
coble's length from the shore. It is steep-to on its south-east side, there being a
depth of 16 to 22 fathoms at a very short distance from it. The narrow channel
between it and the shore is filled with rocks, but it is sufficiently deep to permit the
passage of boats. The geographical position of the island is lat. 50° 26' 80", long.
128° 8'.

Pinnacle Island. — This is a little islet three-quarters of a mile northward of
Entrance island, and on the same side (the western) of the entrance to the sound. It
is a small rcgged rock about 40 feet high, having a few trees on its summit. Its dis-
tance from the shore is 2 cables, and at a cable from its east side is a depth of 15
fathoms. When off this islet Forward inlet appears open.

Surf Islets. — These consist of a chain of small islands one mile long in a N.W. and
S.E. direction, situated about a mile S.S.W. from Bold bluff, and 8 miles within the
entrance to the sound ; they are consequently nearly in mid-channel. Some of them
are covered with a few stunted trees, and are about 40 feet above the surface at high
tide ; a short distance from them are a number of breaking rocks, and at only 8 cables
from their south and west sides is a depth of 10 to 80 fathoms. Although there
appears to be deep water between these islands and the east side of the sound, it is
not advisable to go through that passage, as it has not been sufficiently examined.

Bare Islet lies off the north shore of the entrance to the sound, at a little eastward
of the entrance to Forward inlet. It is a very small bare rock, only 12 feet above the
surface at high tide, and almost close to it is a depth of 24 fathoms. The passage
between it and the shore is not more than 1^ cables wide, and too shallow for anything
larger than boats.

Pilley Shoal is a small patch of 8 fathoms, situated off the north shore of the
entrance to the sound at about a mile north-eastward from Bare islet ; from it Bold
bluff bears almost due East, distant one mile. It is 1^ cables fi'om the shore, has a
depth of 10 to 12 fathoms almost close to it, and is marked by kelp.

Low Islets. — These are small wooded islets situated nearly a mile within the entrance
to Forward inlet, on its south-western side. They are steep, and close to them on all
sides is a depth of 17 to 20 fathoms.

Robson Island is about half a mile north-westward from Low >slets, on the same side
of the inlet. It is about half a mile in extent, 885 feet high, and is separated from

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352

SOUTH-WEST COAST OF VANCOUVER ISLAND.

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the westeru shore by a narrow channel of 12 to 27 and 80 feet. Its shores are rocky,
and on its north and east sides free from danger beyond the distance of a cable. On
the western side of this island is North harbour, in which is excellent anchorage.

Forward Inlet. — On the north side of Qaatsino sound, at a mile within the entrance,
is the arm known as Forward inlet. This inlet is about 6 miles long, first taking a
north-westerly direction for 2 miles from its outer part, and then turning to the N.N.E.
for 4 miles and contracting in breadth as it approaches its head, where it terminates in
large salt-water lagoons. The breadth at the entrance is about a mile, but in the
upper part it contracts to less than a quarter of a mile in some places. Within it are
two anchorages, named North and Winter harbours, in which vessels may ride in per-
fect security and be sheltered from almost all winds.

North Harbour, as alreai^.y mentioned, is on the west side of Kobson island, and its
position makes it the moFC convenient of the anchorages in Forward inlet. Its ex-
tent is nearly half a mile, and within it is a depth of 4 to 6 fathoms. The entrance
is 8 cables wide, and easy of access to sailing vebsels. The western part of the
harbour takes the name of Browning creek ; this part is 1^ miles long, but very
narrow, with from 2 to 5 fathoms water, and terminates in a shallow basin, dry at low
water.

On the north side of the entrance to North harbour is Observatory islet, a small
bare reck connected at low water to the main ; its geographical position is lat.
50° 29' 25", long. 128° 8' 89".

Winter Harbour comprises the N.N.E. part Oi Forward inlet and is a capacious
anchorage having a depth of 8 to 11 fathoms. Its shores are low and bordered by a
sandy beach, and the harbour becomes shoal at a distance of a mile from the head ;
its breadth varies from 2 to G cables.

Log point, just outside the entrance on the east side, ia low, and bordered by a
sandy beach. Southward of this poiAt, and < xtendiug 4 cables from shore, is New
Bank, with 8} fathoms on the shoalest part, which contracts the breadth of the
entrance passage to {lie harbour to less than a cable ; when running in keep a little
over to the west side as soon as abreast North harbour, by which means this bank may
be avoided and Winter harbour entered without danger.

At the narrowest part of the entrance to Winter harbour, on the west side, is a low
grassy point bordered by a sandy beach and steep-to, there being id fathoms within
half a cable of it.

Koprino Harbonr. — At about 8 miles within the entrance of Quatsino sound, in the
centre of a bay on the north side of the sound, is Koprino harbour, a perfectly land-
locked but small anchorage, sufficiently capacious to accommodate one or two ships.
It lies northward of Plumper island, which is about half a mile in extent, low, wooded,
and steep-to on all sides, there being a good passage on cither side of it into the
harbour.

Dockyard Island, in the west part of the harbour, midway between Plumper island
and the north shore, is small, bat may be closely approached. The least water between
it and riumpnr island is d fathoms ; — at about 1 ^ cables north-eastward of it, iu the
middle of tho harbour, is (» small patch of 15 feet, known as the mud bank. There is
good anchorage at a cable southward of Dockyard island, in 14 fathoms.

iAm

QUATSINO SOUND, &o.

858

Wedg« Island lies at the eastam limit of the anchorage at about a cable northward
of Plumper island. It is very small, covered with a few busheti, and there is a deep
passage into the harbour close to it ou each side.

Observatory Islet, — At the north-east extremity of the harbour is a bare rock about
12 feet high, named Observatory islet. It is 2 cables northward of Plumper island,
and 8 cables from the north shore, to which it is connected by a bank dry at low we.ter.
The geographical position of this islet is lat. 50° 30', long. 127° 52' 16".

East Passage leads into Kopriuo harbour, eastward of Plumper island. It is half a
mile wide at the entrance, narrowing to 2 cables at its termination, is clear of danger,
and the soundings in it vary from 16 to 80 fathoms. East cove, in its north-east
part, appears to afford a good anchorage in 6 to 10 fathoms ; but the entrance to it has
hardly been sufficiently examined to recommend its being used by a largo vessel.
Prideanx point, the east entrance point of East passage, is low, bordered by a sandy
beach, and may be approached to a cable's length.

Siraetloiu. — The following instructions for Quatsino sound are from the Vancouver
Island Pilot. For a full detailed description of the sound and its inlets, reference
•hoold be made to that work, and also tu the Admiralty charts, Nos. 582 and 570.

" Entering Quatsino sound from southward, gi"e Reef point, its south-east(irn en-
trance point, an offing of about 2 miles, and steer North till ^old bluf comes in line
with the gap in the centre of the Surf islands, N. by E. ^ E., which mark kept on
will lead south-eastward of Danger rocks ; when the west side of Bobson island comes
open north of Entrance Mount point in Forward inlet, N.W. by W. i W., or Village
islet (on the east side of that inlet) is jusi torcLing Biown point, bearing N.W., a
vessel will be well east of these rocks. If bound ay the sound, round the north cud of
8urf islands at a distance of about half a mile. li going to Forward inlet, stuer
about N.W. by W., taking care not to shut i'l tlie south side of Kobson island with
Entrance Mount point, until Bedwell islets come open north of Bold bluff, bearing
N.E., when she will be well north of the Dangor rucks. Pass from one to 2 cables off
ti' J east sides of Low and Kobson islands, and rounding the north point of the latter,
At the same distance, enter North harbour, and anchor in from 4 to G fathoms, near its
oentre.

If intending to anchor in Winter harbour, when abreast the north part of Robsou
island, steer N.N.W., keepiug well over to the west shore to avoid New Bunk, and
when past it eater the harbour in mid-channel, anchoring in 11 fathoms at about half
a mile north of Grass point.

Winter and North harbours are the best anchorages in Quatsino sound, and easily
available fof sailing vessels, which could beat into the latter harbour. As they are
situated near the entrance to the sound their position is very advantageous.

Bound to Koprino harbour, which can only be entered by steamers or sailing vessels
with a fair wind, round the north-wost point of Surf islands at about half a mile dis-
tance, and steer up the sound in mid-channci until abreast the harbour. If in a largo
vessel, go through the East passage, keepiug from one to 2 cables off Plumper
island ; enter the anohorago close-to ou oithor side uf Wodge island, and moor im-
mediately the vessel is west of it, — anchors north and south. A vussul may also
eater by West passage, and anchor in 14 fathoms south of Dockyard island.

.' Ill

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854

SOUTH-WEST COAST OF VANCOUVER ISLAND.

When navigating the sound eastward of Koprino harboar the chart is the best guide,
and a mid-chancel course is everywhere free of danger ; sailing vessels of any size
should not, however, go eastward of that harbour, as the anchorages beyond are rather
difficult of access for them. If wishing to anchor in Hecate cove, enter it in mid-
channel, passing north of Limestone island, and moor immediately the vessel is inside
the entrance points ; the tide runs from one to 8 knots abreast the entrance, and should
be guarded against.

Going through Quatsino narrows, keep well over to the north shore, pass north of
Round island, round Tarn point close-to, and guarding against the tide, steer up the
narrows in mid-channel. These narrows ought not to be attempted except at slack
water, or with a favourable tide, unless in a full-powered steamer.

The best anchorage north of the narrows is Caul harbour in West arm. If wishing
to go' there, a N.W. course for 2 miles from the narrows will lead to its entrance ; a
vessel may anchor near its centre in from 12 to 14 fathoms. In navigating West arm
keep well over to the south shore, when in the vicinity of the Pot rock and Straggling
islands.

Entering Quatsino sound from uestward, give the coast an ofiing of about 2 miles,
till Entrance island bears N.E. or N.E. by N., when steer to pass about 2 cables east-
ward of it, but not farther off. When abreast it haul to the northward, bringing Pinnacle
islet in line with the east side of Low isltts, bearing N.N.W. \ W., and steer up with
that mark on till Bedwell islets come well open northward of Bold bluff, bearing N.E.,
when Forward inlet may be entered, or you may proceed further up the sound, as
before directed.

If, when coming from southward, Pinnacle and Low islets can be well made out, a
vessel by keeping the former in line with the oast part of the latter, bearing N.N.W. i W.,
will pass S cables westward of Danger rucks ; but as a rule it would bo more prudent
to go eastward of them.

If the weather be so thicic that the marks fur cloaring Danger rocks cannot well be
made out, a vessel, if able to diHtinguish Eutrauco island, may enter the sound by
steering for it on a N. by E. or north-easturly bearing; pass close to its cast side,
and haul to tiio northward when abreast it ; by keeping half a mile on that course,
she will be well clear north-west of Danger rocks, and may proceed anywhere up the
sound. On a clear night in fine weather a vessel may also enter in the above manner.

There is room, with a steady breeze, for a smart working vessel to beat into the
sound southward and esistward of Diiugor rocks, though without previous knowledge of
the phico it woukl be rather hazardous to attempt it. If obliged to do so, when stand-
ing northward towards Danger rocks, tnck when Piold bluff cumes in lino with the
centre of the northernmost (wooded) Surf island, bearing N.N.E. } E. ; and when
standing to the south shore, tack when Bold bluff comes in line with the south-oast
extreme of the Surf islands bearing N. i E. or N. by E. When the suulh side of
Robson island comes open north of Entrance Mount point, N.W. by W. i W., she
will be eastward of Danger rocks, and may stand farther to tlio northward.

Boating between Surf isluuds and Danger rocks, tack at about B cables off the
former ; and iu btauding towards the latter, keep Robson island open an before directed,

SAN JOSEF BAY, CAPE SCOTT, &c.

855

till Bedwell islets come open northward of Bold bluff, N.E. If going to North harbour,
when inside Forward inlet, guard against New bank."

The OOABT. — From Qnatsino sound to cape Scott, the north-west extremity of Van-
couver island, the coast trends W.N.W. about 26 miles. It is in general rocky and
iron-bound, and from its projecting points sunken ledges extend a considerable distance,
hence it is always prudent to give this coast a wide berth, — an offing of at least 2 miles
is recommended. The mountains over the cliffs are occasionally more than 1000 feet
high ; of the headlands, cape Palmerston, in lat. 50° 80' 45", rises to the height of
1422 feet, and has rocks at its base to about half a mile out, immediately beyond
which is a depth of 6 to 10 fathoms.

Ban Josef Bay. — This inlet is on the north-west side of cape Palmerston, and
should only bo used as an anchorage when the wind is from the land. It extends
8 miles in a north-easterly direction, and has a breadth at tho entrance of nearly
2 miles, narrowing gradually towards its head. Its shores are high, and off the south
side are several isolated rocks. Although tlie depth of the bay is i ! to 4 fathoms, it
affords shelter only with nortlierly winds, and should not therefi be used as a
stopping place unless the weather be fine ; generally a heavy sea sets inUi it, and a vessel
caii^'lit tliore with a south-westerly gale would inevitably go on shore. At its head, on
the south side, is a stream of considerable size, which boats can enter at high tide.

'J'he host place of anchorage in the bay is near the middle in 7 or 9 fathoms, with
the entrance points bearing Soutli iind West.

••a otter Cave. — Outside the entrance to San Josef bay, on its Uvirih-west side, is a
clustui , islands about 40 feet high, bare and yellow-topped, which with the coast
northward o' Miem form . little bay, known as Sea Otter cove. Thi bay extends into
the land about a mile iu a uortliorly direction, and is nA more than one-third of a mile
wide. It has a depth of 6 to . fiithomn, and is exposed to southerly winds. There
are several sunken rocks within it, and the shelter is very indifferent ; it should be
entered only by thobu well acquainted with its dangers.

Sea Otter cove is formed on its west side by capo Uussnll, a remarkable headland,
870 feet high, which is vor onspiouoas, especially when viewed from north-westward,
as it stands out from th .ouoral line of coast. This capo must bo roundod with very
great care, on account of some sunken rocks which extend off it about a mile in a
southerly direction. From this headland to cape Ssott there i i no place of shelter,
and tho bold coast frequently rises to the height of GOO feet.

The soundings off shore between Quatsino sound and cape Scott a. - <>op, as might
be inferred from the mountainouH character of the adjoining land. At tho distance of
2 miles the depth is 20 to !)0 fathoms, saud and rock, and tliis deepens to 100 fathoms
at 10 to 11 miles out ; southward of Scott islands tho depth of 100 fathoms is probably
not more than U miles from them.

OAPB SOOTT is a bold headland 500 foot high, which will bo recognised at onoe
from whatever direction it may bo viewed ; for when boiiriiig duo F-ast the sea will be
observed to wash its north and south -sides, and wliou bearing either Nxrtli or South
the low sandy neck imuiediutuly behind it (only a cable wide, and which connects it to

AAa

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866

SOUTH-WEST COAST OP VANCOUVER ISLAND.

li*

the shore of Vanconver) makes it appear almost isolated. Its geographical position is
lat. 50° 46' 41", long. 128° 26' 45". The country in the Ticinity of the cape is not so
lofty as that along the coast we have been describing soath-eastward of it.

Cape Scott shoald always have a wide berth given to it because of the rocks at its
base, which extend cut nearly thrb<)-qnarters of a mile ; as these are steep, with a
depth of 16 to 20 fathoms almost close to them, more than ordinary care is required
when in their neighbonrhood. The flood here comes from the southward, and ronnding
the cape sets into Goletas channel, its strength Taring from one to 8 knots.

There is anchorage for boats and small craft in each bay on the north and south
sides of the cape, formed by the sandy isthmus, bnt in neither ia it safe to remain
when there is a prospect of bad weather. The south bay has a depth of 6 to 2 fathoms,
is exposed to Sonth winds, and facing it is a cluster of rocks, some of which are 10 feet
high. There is also shelter for boats in a little creek, among the rocks immediately
west of the sonth bay : it is difficult of access, but affords protection when within even
against southerly gales.

800TT zsx.Ain>B. — The highest part of Cox, th<> easternmost island, is 6| miles
W. by S. i S. from cape Scott. The channel between this island and the shore of
Vancouver is safe and believed to be ftee from sunken dangers, with the exception of
those already mentioned as surrounding c&pe Scott ; its depth is from 19 to 40
fathoms. The tide runs through it at the rate of one to 8 knots, end there are
some strong tide rips on its east and west sides. When beating through do not
approach the shore of Cox island nearer than half a mile, nor that of cape Soott
nearer than 1^ miles.

The islands extend from Cox island about 20 miles in a westerly direction, the
west point of Triangle island (the farthest to seaward), being in lat. 50* 61' 68", long.
129" 6' 82", and 25i miles W. by S. J 8. from cape Scott. They are five in number,
and rt'ckoning from eastward are named Cox, Lanz, East Haycock, West Haycock, and
Triangle ; but adjacent to them are some smaller islets or rooks. The depth along
their north sides, at the distance of 2 miles is BO to 50 fathoms ; at 2 miles westward
of Triangle island it is 46 fathoms, and at 5 or 6 miles southward from them 80 to 100
fathoms.

Cox Xsiand has an extent of about 2} miles. It is the largest of the islands, and
rises to the height of 1017 feet. Its shores are very bold, and should not be closely
approached becans of detached rocks and sunken reefs. Vcseels in fine weather
occasioiinlly nnchoi off the north shore in 14 fathoms; but it is safe to do ao only
when the wind is liom southward.

ZiMiB. — This inland is distant from Cox island about half a mile ; the channel
between is 17 fathoms deep in the middle, but should bo used only on an emergency,
as the shore on each side in rocky. Lan/. is 2 miles long in a westerly direction, one
mile broad, and is the highcgtof the Scott isluuil!^, — its summit being 1177 feet above
the sea.

!>■■« Hftyceoli is 2} miles south-westward from Lauz island ; it is very small, has a
rugged outline, and is covered with a few stunted trees. Some islets or rocks extend a
short distance N.W. from it.

;iF

BCOTT ISLANDS, &o.

857

VMtHayeoekia distant 5 miles W. i S. from East Haycock. It is small and
rocky, and about 180 foot high ; some small islets extend upwards of a mile south-
westward from it, foul ground existing around them for half a mile.

Txtansto, the westernmost of the Scott islands, is 26 miles W. by S. from cape
Scott. It is 680 feet high, about a mile in extent, and differs from the other islands
in being very precipitous, and bare of trees, and has a remarkable gap in its summit.
A ledge or reef extends one mile north-west from it ; eastward of it are three low islets,
the outermost of which, 40 feet high, is IJ^ miles from the island ; there are also two
islets at a short distance from its south side.

The Scott islands have not been closely examined, but it is known that strong tide
ripples and overfialls prevail in the channels separating them. Upon this account,
and also because these channels have not been sounded, vessels should abstain from
yenturing near or among them. The flood sets northward and the ebb southward
through the islands, and at times with considerable strength.

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COAST OP BRITISH COLUMBIA NORTH OF VANCOUVER ISLAND.

Magnttie Variation in l9S0:—:Qiu«n Charlotte Sound 24^° E. ; Seaforth Channel

25i° E. ; Principe Channel 27° E. ; and Chatham Sound 28° E.

It it estimated to increase 2 to d minutes annually.

The following sailing directions relating to Queen Charlotte, Smith, and Fitz-Hugh
sounds, with channels leading to Milbank sound, are by Navigating Lieutenant Daniel
Pender, R.N., in charge of the British Columbia Admiralty Survey, 1867.*

QVBXiiv OHABX.OTTII SOUMD-Bliadwau Puaut*. — The south peak of Magin
saddle (on the west end of Galiano island) in line with the east end of Centre island
bearing S.S.E., leads through the northern entrance of Shadwell passage, passing half
a mile east of capo James (north-west point of entrance), and 1^ cables west of Breaker
reef, in 9 to 17 fathoms water.f

rin* and Storm Islands. — These islands with their surrounding islets and reefs
occupy the middle of the western approach to Queen Charlotte sound, and form the
eastern margin of dangers between Shadwell passage and cape Caution.

Pino island, bold, rocky, and covered with trees, about 260 feet high, is 4j miles
N.E. by N. from cape James.

■torm Islands aru a narrow chain of islands lying in an East and West directinu
about 2 miles long, and form a most useful land-mark when crossing Queen Charlotte
sound. The wostorn of those islands boars from Pine island N.W. by N. 8 miles ;
from capo James N. \ £. 6} miles; and from cape Cautiop S.E. by S. diatnnt 8 miles.

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• Reprinted from the Admiralty Hydrographic Notice, No. 24, 1877.
t See Admiraltiy chart "Ooietas channel to Quatsino louud," No. 68'i.

1:1

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858

COAST OF BRITISH COLUMBIA.

There are no oatlying dangers beyond 8 cables. The tops of the trees are 160 to
200 feet high, and on the western part is a single tree which is conspicuous.

A sunken rock, on which the sea breaks in bud weather, lies about 5 miles N.E. of
Shadwell passage; from the centre of the rock Bright island bears S.E. i E., distant
1^ miles, and Pine island, West li miles.

■•ai«d Passage, 6 miles to the northward of Shadwell passage, between Pine island
and Storm islands, is about 2} miles wide, and has a reef (Blind reof), on which the
sea breaks in heavy weather, extending nearly across ; close to the west edge of Blind
reef there are 17 to 40 fathoms, rock. This passage should not be attempted.

Beid island, the easternmost of the Storm islands, on the north side of Sealed
Assage, is about 800 yards long E.N.E. and W.S.W., and 150 yards broad, having
» rock above water half a cable ofif its west end.

Water can be obtained at the Indian fishing station on Storm islands.

Beutb sook, awash at low water, lies about If miles north-eastward of Blind, reef ;
from the centre of this rock. Pine island bears S.W. by S. 8 J miles nearly, and Reid
island W. i N. If miles.

iiBiddie Bock, on which the sea nearly always breaks, is covered at three-quarters
flood, and lies N. by W. one mile from South rock.

Korth Book, on which the sea nearly always breaks, is awash at high water, and
lies N.E. three-quarters of a mile nearly from Middle rock. Harris i.^let a little open
south of Janette island, bearing E. by S. i S., leads half a mile to the northwai'd of
North rock.

OAPB CAVTZON (Ka-Klees-la), tho north-west entrance point of Queen Charlotte
sound, is of moderate luiight and level, the tops of the trees being about 200 feet above
the Bca ; the shore is white, and of granite formation, with a few rocks off it; the land
north-east of the cape rises gradually in a distance of 5 miles to Coast nipple, 1350
feet high, 2 miles to the eastward of which lies mount Robiuson, 2100 feet high.

Soinidinfis. — In a south-westerly direction from cape Caution, at a distance of
8 cables, there is a depth of fathoms, rocky bottom; at one mile, 16 fathoms; at
If miles, 48 fathoms, white sandy bottom ; thence for 7 miles in the same direction
the average depth is 70 fathoms, rocky bottom. At 10 miles S.W. by W. from the
cape and 2J miles S.E. ^ S. from Danger rock the wator shoals to 40 fathoms dark
Bond, and again deepens to 80 and 00 fathoms a short distance to tho southward.

8BA OTTBB OROVF. — This group, conHistiiig of several dangerous rocks, islets,
and shoals which cover a space about 12 miles in extent north and south and 10 miles
in an east and west direction, lies G or 7 miles from tho seaboard of British Columbia,
fronting the coast between capes Caution and Calvert.*

Dtinrjer shoal, on which the sea is roportcid to break in heavy weather, is the
southernmost outlying danger of Soa Otter group, and lies W. by S. i S. lOi miles
from cape Cautiuu ; near the centre of this shual there is a depth of 9 fathoms, with
22 fathoms close around. Shoaler water probably exists.

• See Admiralty clmit, " ApproaoheB to Fita-Hugti and Smith Bouiidi," No. Ui8, and " Caps
Caution to port BinipBon," No. 1038, A and U.

; •) !

SEA OTTER GROUP.

850

Tirgla Soeks, near the vestern limit of the gronp, consist of three ^liite rocks, the
largest of which (50 feet high) lies N.W. hy W. i W. 7i miles from Danger shoal,
and West 17 miles from cape Caution. Southward of these rocks the 80-fathom lino
is 4 miles, and in a westerly direction it is ti miles distant : rounding this pai-t the
soundings should not be reduced to less than 80 fathoms.

Wateb Reek, 74 feet high and black, lies near the northern limit of the group,
N. J E. 7i miles from Virgin rocks. The rock is steep-to.

Vxi 9oek«, the northernmost of Sea Otter group, comprise several rocks above
and below water, extending 1^ miles in a north-west and south-east direction ; the
largest rock (15 feet high) lies E. by N. 3 milos from Watch rock, and the south-
east rock, on which the sea always breaks, lies S.V;. by E. one mile from the largest
rook ; there are 16 to 81 fathoms wat^r close-to on the north side of Pearl rocks,
and 70 to 80 fathoms just eastward of them.

ssTii Book, the north-eastern outlying danger, lies N.E. ^ E. 1^ miles from the
largest Pearl rock, and S.S.W. i W. nearly 8 miles from Sorrow islands. The sea
seldom breaks on Devil rock, {md there is apparently deep water close around. There
are 80 to' 40 fathoms between the rock and cape Calvert.

H«w Fatob, on which the sea generally bi'eaks, is nearly 2 miles in extent, and lies
S. by E. 4^ miles from the largest Pearl rock.

Otaann«i Reef, the easternmost danger of Sea Otter group, has about 6 feet over it
at low water; from the centre of this reef. Table island, at the entrance of Smith
sound, bears E. by N. i N. 4f miles and Egg island E. i N. 8^^, miles. The sea
seldom breaks on Channel reef, and there are GO fathoms close eastward of it.

Hannab Rook, the south-easternmost outlying danger on which the sea is nearly
always breaking, is situated about 2^ miles south of Channel reef; Hannah rock is
awash at high water, and from its centre cape Caution bears E. ^ S. 8 miles, Egg
island N.E. by E. 5J miles, and Danger shoal S.S.W. J W. 4-j'o miles.

The south extremes of Egg and Table islands in line, bearing N.E. I N. leads clear
to the south-eastward of Danger shoal, and all other dangers on the south-east side of
Sea Otter group.

Olreotiono. — To enter FitzJIwjh sound fiem southward, after passing cape James
(Shadwoll passage), a N.N.W. I W. course should be steered (or for Entry peak, 1200
feet high, the south conical mountain over cape Calvert) until past the Storm islands ;
when, Addenbrooke island open of, and the oast shore of Fitz-Hugh sound (beyond)
shut in by cape Calvert, bearing N.N.W. { W., will lead midway between Channel
reef and Egg inland, and up to the entrance of Fitz-Hugh sound. Allowance should
be made for tidnl streams : the flood sets to tho eastward into Queen Charlotte and
Smith souu(Ls with a velocity at springs of nearly 2 knots. See p. 857.

From Hcstu'ard. — Vesstls from westward, bound for Fitz-Hugh sound, should uso
North passngo, between Sea Otter group and Culvert island ; this passage is about
8 miles wide, with depths of 89 to 71 fathoms ; lleJIoy patch with fathoms water
(probably less) lies in the west entrance to North passage, at 8i miles N. 4 W. from
Watch rock. See description of Sea Otter group, p. 8.ih.

Boutta Faasage. — This passngo, leading to Smith and Fitz-Hugh sounds from the

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P

860

COAST OF BRITISH COLUMBIA.

■"'i

Bonthward, lies between cape Caution and the sonth-east limit of Sea Otter groap,
where it is abont 7 miles broad, with irregnlar soundings varying from 84 to 74
fathoms. False Egg island, its own breadth open west of Egg island, bearing N. ^ W.,
leads through South passage, nearly in mid-channel.

Binnden Bay, a slight bend in the coast between cape Cantion and Neck point,
at 1^ miles N.W. i N. from it, is about one mile wide at its entrance, and nearly a
mile deep ; Indian cove, which lies in the noiihem part of this bay, affords good
shelter for boats ; it is the Indian rendezvons on their canoe voyages, when passing
between Queen Charlotte and Fitz-Hngh sounds.

From Neck point the coast trends N. by W. 2 miles to Good Shelter cove, midway
between which lies Uoop reef, abont one-third of a mile from the shore ; this reef is
three-quarters of a mile north-west and south-east, and one-quarter of a mile broad.

Iron Boeka. — South Iron rock, on which the sea seldom breaks, lies three-quarters
of a mile to the westward of Hoop reef, and nearly If miles N.W. ^ W. from Neck
point ; there are 85 fathoms close-to, on the north side of the rook, and 25 fathoms in
the channel between it and Hoop reef. North Iron rock, which dries 7 feet, lies
nearly in the faii-way of Alexandra passage, N.N.W. ^ W. three-quarters of a mile
from South Iron rock ; there are 7 to 9 fathoms close-to, and no bottom at 40 fathoms
within a quarter of a mile of North Iron rock.

False Egg island in line with West rock, off Table island, bearing N. by W. i W.,
leads 4 cables west of South and North Iron rocks. The west extreme of Surf islet
and the small islands near the south point of Shower island in line, N.E. by N., leads
through Alexandra passage, between North Iron rock and Egg rocks.

Bgs laiand, immediately fronting Smith sound, and standing boldly out from the
coast, is the prominent landmark between Goletas channel and Fitz-Hugh sound.
The island is 280 feet high, covered with trees, and is remarkable for its egg-like
shape ; it lies N.W. i N. 5 miles from cape Caution. From the south-west side of
the island rocks extend out about a cable, and on the east side lies a small island,
which is separated from Egg island by a narrow gully, giving the appearance of a split
in the island itself, when seen from north or south.

Use noeka, on the west side of Alexandra passage, are a cluster of rocks lying
nearly three-quarters of a mile W.N.W. from North Iron rock, and S.S.E. about
2 cables from Egg island; these rocks extend about a quarter of a mile N.N.W. and
S.S.E., the northernmost being 80 feet high.

A sunken danger (Donny rock), on whic' the sea seldom breaks, and is a source of
anxiety in thick weather, lies a quarter of a mile W.S.W. from the southernmost Egg
rock. The west extreme of Ann island open west of Egg island bearing N. by E.
leads about 8 cables west of Denny rock.

BinzTB SOUND. — This sound lies 6 miles N.N.W. from cape Caution; it is about
8 miles long N.E. and S.W., with an average breadth of 8^ miles; the entrance,
between Joues point and Long point, being 5i miles across in a N.N.W. direction.
Six miles within the entrance on each side of a duster of islands is » channel leading
into Smith inlet. In almost every part of the sound the depths are over 40 fathoms,
and there is generally a heavy swell.

BHi

SMITH SOUND, &o.

861

The Bonth-east shore of Smith sonnd, for a distance of 4 or 5 miles from the entrance,
is fronted by several small islands and rocks having deep water close-to; good shelter
for boats will be obtained in a small cove aboat a quarter of a mile north of Jones
point, the sonth entrance point of the sonnd, also in a cove one mile south of Jones
point, abreast Egg rooks.

The entrance to the sound is protected by a plateau, on vhich stands a collection of
islands, islets, and rocks; some above, and many under water, prominent amongst
them being Egg and Table islands, already described. Access to Smith sonnd may
be had on either side of these islands.

Aiazandra Vaasas*. — The sonth passage is between Egg island and the south-
eastern point of entrance, the narrowest part, between Egg rocks and North Iron rock,
being 6 cables : here as elsewhere, however, the dangers are so steep-to, that the
quickest use of the lead is enjoined. A general leading mark through Alexandra
passage (making allowance for heave of swell and tide) is, the west extreme of Surf
island in line with the islets near the sonth point of Shower is7'.nd bearing N.E. by N.

Bcavar Puias** — The northern channel into Smith sound is between the islands
fronting the north point of the sonnd and Wood and White rocks, the northern and
north-western extension of the above mentioned plateau, see detailed description of the
several dangers. In Beaver passage the bottom is irregular, 20 fathoms being the
least depth obtained. The course through the passage is E. i S., the east extreme of
Search islands just open of the west end of Surf islet on that bearing, leads in mid-
way between John reef (on sonth side) and False Egg island (on north side), where the
width is 6 cables. This western entrance to the passage being the narrowest part;
with the usual amount of sea and swell, good steerage, and vigilant attention are
required.

Tabu iBiand, the largest of the group of islands occupying the entrance to Smith
sound, is about one mile long ncrth and south, and half a mile broad, with the tops of
the trees 120 feet above the sea, nearly flat. Table island when seen from abreast
cape Caution makes with two summits.

A cluster of rocks, several of which are cove^'ed at low water, extends half a mile
from the west side of Table island, having 24 fathoms water close to the outer rock.

Aan Island, about half a mile in extent, is separated from the north end of Table
island by a channel (a cable wide in some parts) in which shelter will be found for
boats.

Oinatw R«*ffe, consisting of several rocky heads and shoal patches, extend froni
Table island in a northerly and north-westerly direction into the entrance of Smith
sound. George rook, on which the sea breaks at low water, is the north-westernmost,
and lies N. by W. } W. one mile from Ann island ; Edward reef dries 7 feet, and lies
E.N.E. three-quarters of a mile nearly from George rock. Wood rocks, which are
awash at low water, lie E. by N. a quarter of a mile nearly from Edward reef, consist
of three rocky heads, and are the north-easternmost of Cluster reefs. Bertie rook,
with 8i fathoms water, lies near the eastern edge of Cluster reefs ; from the centre of
this rook the north-west extreme of Ann island bears S.W. i S. distant nearly three-
quarters of a mile.

Ifj

H i

,!■

862

COAST OF BRITISH COLUMBIA.

The west extreme of False Egg island in line with Kelp head, bearing N. | W.,
leads to the westward; and Limit point, midway between Long and Shower islands
E. by N. f N., leads to the northward of Glaster reefs.

Wlilt« Boeksj 85 feet high, and very conspionoos, lie in the west entrance of Beaver
passage, and 8^ miles N. by W. i W. from Egg island, and nearly one mile north-
west of Cluster reefs.

At 8 cables N.N.W. J W. from White rocks and 6 cables S. by W. i W. from
False Egg island, lies John reef, which dries 8 feet at low water, with 9 to 20 fathoms
close aroand ; it forms the north-western danger, on the south side of Beaver passage.

The east extreme of Search islands just open south of the west end of Surf islet
(east side of Smith sound) bearing E. ^ S., will lead 3 cables to the northward of
John reef, and into Smith sound through Beaver passage.

raiM Bss Island, resembling Egg island in shape, but smaller, is 160 feet high ; it
lies on the north side of Beaver passage, and is the outlying landmark for this northern
entrance to Smith sound.

At about 8 cables W. i N. from False Egg island lies James rock, the position of
which is somewhat doubtful ; the sea breaks on this rock at low water, and between it
tind False Egg island the bottom is foul.

The west part of the large Canoe rock bearing North, or in line with Quoin hill (on
Penrose island) passes three-quarters of a mile westward of James and John rocks,
and leads clear westward of all dangers at the entrance of Smith sound.

Xioas Point, the north-west point of Smith sound, lies E. by N. three-qaarters of a
mile from False Egg island. Tie island, which is nearly a quarter of a mile in extent,
lies close westward of Long point, and is separated from it by a boat passage, in which
there is a depth of 4 fathoms. Ada rock, wbloh is awash at low water, lies S.S.E. i E.
2 cables from Tie island.

Brown Island, on the north-east side of Beaver passage, lies S.E. i S. half a mile
from Long point; the island is 250 feet high, nearly half a mile long N.N.W. and
S.S.E., and a quarter of a mile broad, with 17 to 23 fathoms close to its south point.
Between the south part of Brown island and Wood rocks, the eastern part of Beaver
passage is 8 cables across with 30 and 40 Mhoms.

Surprise patch, on the uoiih side of Smith sound, lies N.E. by E. J E. IJ miles
from the south extreme of Drown island ; there is a depth of 6 fathoms on this patch,
7 to 17 fathoms close around, and no bottom at 40 fathoms 2 cables to the northward.

Judd Ruck, with loss than (3 feet water, lies N.E. by E. J E. three-quarters of a
mile from Surprise patch, and W. by N. three-quarters of a mile from Long island,
the largest of the Barrier islands ; there is no bottom at 40 fathoais in the vicinity of
this rock.

Barriar Xaianda, at the head of Smith sound, consist of two large and several small
islands covering a space of about 5 miles in extent N.E. and S.W. Blakeney passage
on the north, and Browning passage on the south side of these islands, each leading to
Smith inlet, are each about one mile wide, with no bottom at a depth of 40 fathoms.

Taknab Harbonr, on the south shore of Smith sound, 6 miles within the entrance,
and 1^ miles east of Barrier islauds, is 2 miles long, north-east and south-west, and

SSSSSB

t *

FITZ-HUan SOUND.

86ft

one mile broad. This is the only anchorage which a ship can make for shelter when
crossing Qaeen Charlotte soand. Vessels of large size can lie here secure.

The entrance is three-quarters of a mile wide, with no bottom at 89 fathoms,
decreasing to 22 fathoms, rock, in the centre of Ship passage, which is 2^ cables wide,
and is formed by Gnarled islands on the west, and Fish rocks (dry 8 feet at low water)
on the east side.*

Fly Basin, at the head of Takush harbour, perfectly land-locked, is about one mile
long E.N.E. and W.S.W., and one to 2 cables broad, with 2.^ to 8 fathoms in the
western and 6 to 8 fathoms in the eastern part of the basin. The entrance to Fly
basin, which is about one cable wide, is contracted to a quarter of a cable by a shoal
extending from the east entrance point, with a rock (dry 2 feet at low water), and a
patch of 9 feet on its western edge ; between this shoal and the west entrance point
there is a depth of 9 fathoms. If required a small vessel conldbe taken into Fly basin.

Anchorage in Takush harbour will be found in 10 or 11 fathoms, mud, in Anchor
bight, midway between Ship rock and Steep point, with the north extreme of Bull
point bearing N.E. by E. f E., and east extreme of Bloxham point N. by E. ^ E.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Takush harbour at lb. Om. ; springs
rise 14 feet, neaps 11 feet.

Directions. — When bound to Takush harbour, it is recommended to pass through
Browning passage, and, after passing North point — sec i>lan — keep the north extreme
of Bright island a little open north of that point bearii.g W. by S. J S., until Berry
point (south side of Fly basin) appears midway between the entrance points of Fly
basin, S.E., which will lead through Ship passage ; and when Steep point is well open
of the southernmost Gnarled island bearing W.S.W. a course may be steered for the
anchorage in Anchor bight, passing midway between Anchor and Gnarled islands.
Good steerage is required here, speed should be proportionately slow, the leads quickly
kept going, and the water not shoaled to less than 7 fathoms.

Smitb XniAt (Quas-cillah), the continuation of Smith sound, is about S miles wide
at its entrance, between eastern part of Takush harbour and Dsoolish bay ; it is said
to extend nearly 25 miles in an E.N.E. direction. The inlet has not been surveyed.

rzTZ-Bvan souivb. — This sjuud, the entrance to which lies 6 miles to the
northward of Smith sound, is 39 miles long in a general N.N.W. and S.S.E. direc-
tion, having an average breadth of 3 miles, with no known hidden dangers throughout.
The southern entrance to Fitz-IIugh sound lies between Cranstown point on the east,
and cape Calvert the southern extremity of Calvert island on the west, 6 miles W. i N.
from it.

Cranstown Point is at once the south entrance point of Fitz-Hugh sound and of
Rivers inlet. The coast from Long point extends N.W. by N. 2i miles to Kelp point,
from which Cranstown point beara N. by W. distant one mile.

Canoa, Spur, and Paddle Rocks lie about a mile off Kelp point, and occupy a space
of 1^ miles in a N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction. The space thus enclosed being foul.

* See Admiralty plau of Tukusli Larbour, on sheet
souuda," Nu. 24i8.

Approaches to Fitz-Hu(,'h and Smitb

864

COAST OF BRITISH OOLUMBU.

and more or less covered with growing kelp. Canoe rook, the centre and most promi-
nent of these rocks, is bare, 25 feet high, and stands boldly oat from the coast, making
a good point for identification. See clearing mark, p. 862.

Open bay, on the north-east side of Cranstown point, affords anchorage in 7 fiiithomi
about 2 cables from the shore daring sammer or with off-shore winds, bat there is
generally a swell in the bay, and it is only used by local craft as a temporary anchorage.

OAFB OAiiVUBT, the south extreme of Calvert island, is the southem termination of
Cape range (2000 feet high). At 2 miles north of th.* jape lies Entry eone (1200 feet
high), which is conspicnons, and forms a guod mark for recognising Fitz-Hagh soand
from the southward, and westward; cape Calvert is fronted by the Sorrow islands,
which are steep-to, of granite formation, and covered with gnarled and stunted trees ;
between these islands and the cape fair shelter may be found for boats in Qrief bay
(Telakwas), but during south-east or south-west gales, a swell is more or less ex-
perienced, rendering landing difficult and sometimes dangerous. This bay is an
Indian resort when travelling, or engaged in hunting tb'^ sea otter.

BOHOomiB BBTBBJLT.* — Scboouer retreat (or I'a-ni-'lsh), on the east side of Fitz-
Hugh sound, is the name given to the anchorages among a cluster of islands at the
south-west end of Penrose island, which here separates Fitz-Hugh sound from Rivers
inlet. The retreat affords a secure resting place, and with care may be safely entered
by steam-vessels.

j'eaeiiim Siduid, the sonth-eastnrnmost and largest of this cluster of islands, is 400
feet high, 1^ miles long north and south, with an average breadth of half a mile ; the
north extreme of this island is separated from Penrose island by a boat passage.

Ironside island, the eastern part of which is 200 feet high, is the next in size, and
is separated from Sea bluff, the north-west point of Joachim, by the channel into
Schooner retreat.

Safe entrance, between Joachim and Ironside islands, three-quarters of a mile wide,
has in the middle from 8 to 17 fathoms water ; on the west side of Safe entrance lies
a rock awash, about 50 yards from Grey islands, having a shoal extending 1^ cables
in a northerly direction, with 2 to 8 fathoms on it, and 4 to 10 fathoms dose-to.

Comber rock, on which the sea often breaks, is an outlying danger at the north side
of the entrance of Schooner retreat ; the rock covers at three-quarters flood, and lies
S. by W. three-quarters of a cable from Surf point, the south-west extreme of Ironside
island.

rrisata Bay , the sonthernoioBt anchorage in Schooner retreat, is a space about half
a mile long north-oast and south-west, and a quarter of a mile broad, with depths of
9 to 20 fatlioms; it is bounded on the south by Joachim island, and on the west by
Ironside atid Maze islands. The best anchorage in this bay will be found just within
Safe entrance, off a clean sandy beach, in 18 fathoms water, with the north-east
extreme of Ironside island bearing W. ^ S., and the north-west extreme of Sea bluff
S. i W. It is necessary to moor in this bay.

Max* Zsianda are a cluster of small islands on an extensive shoal projecting in a

f: ''

* See Admiralty plan of Sohuoner retreat on sheet No. 1901.

fsaam

FITZ-HUQH SOUND, &c.

86ft

northdrly direction from the north-east end of Ironside island ; the north-east prong of
this shoal extends nearly across to Penrose island, having a naiTow channel with 5^ to
9 fathoms water, which leads from Frigate bay to Secure anchorage.

Secure anchorage may be found north-west of Frigate bay, about a quarter of a mile
long north-east and south-west, and H cables broad, with depths of 9 to 11 fathoms ;
it is protected from seaward by Ironside, Bird, and Highway islands. Yemey passage,
leading to Secure anchorage from the westward, between Ironside and Bird islands,
is nearly half a cable wide with 7 fiEtthoms water in mid-channel, but it is contracted
to about 80 yards by the shoals on either side, and having Chance rock at the entrance
is only suitable for small coasting vessels.

During S.E. and S.W. gales the gusts are furious, but with good ground tackle and
care, there need be no danger in Schooner retreat.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Schooner retreat at Oh. 80. ; springs
rise 14 feet, neaps 11 feet.

Directions. — Vessels bound to Schooner retreat should at all times use the Safe
entrance ; — from the southward Quoin hill (880 feet high), at the west part of Penrose
island, brought in line with the hill, 200 feet high, on the east end of Ironside island,
bearing N.N.E., will lead to abreast Karalake point, the west extreme of Joachim
island, when Safe entrance will be open. After passing Karslake point steer very care-
fully and proceed at a moderate speed towards Bluff point until Quoin hill is in line
with Centre island bearing N. } E., which will lead through Safe entrance in mid-
channel, and to the anchorage in Frigate bay.

The soundings between Karslake point and Safe entrance are irregular, varying from
24 and 80 fathoms abreast the point, to 40 fathoms no bottom within 2 cables of the
entrance, thence decreasing gradually to 15 and 20 fathoms midway between Sea bluff
and the southern Grey island.

saftty Oem.* — Safety cove ^or Oat-so-alis), on the west shore of Fitz-Hngh sound
and 7 miles to the northward of cape Calvert, is about one mile long W.S.W. and
E.N.E., and nearly half a mile wide at its entrance, to the westward of which the
shores of the cove extend parallel to each other at a distance of 2 cables apart ; there
are depths of to 17 fathoms within half a cable of the shores, and 14 to 10 fathoms,
soft mud, in the middle of the cove, but the head is filled by a shoal extending out
8 cables, with 7 fathoms close to its edge. The north entrance point of Safety cove
has two small islets lying off it, which are useful in identifying the entrance, especially
when coming fiY>m the northward.

Good anchorage will be obtained in 18 fathoms, mud, in the middle of Safety cove,
abreast a water&U on the north shore. Entering at night, a vessel should keep in the
middle of the cove, obtaining soundings, and anchor as soon as 17 fathoms are struck.
During south-east or south-west gales, strong gusts blow across the valley at the head
of this cove.

The stream which runs into the head of Safety cove affords excellent water, but is

!.3

• See Admiraltj plan of Safety cove on sheet No. 1901.

ST5

COAST OP BRITISH COLUMBIA.

B 1

liH

liuHl

1 n

fflS
iHH ,

difficult to obtaiu by boats. The waterfall on the north shore, unless in exceptionally
dry weather (August and September), will afford a good supply.

TUies. — It is high water, full and change, in Safety cove, at Ih. Om. ; pprings rise
14 feet, neaps 11 feet.

Observation spot, on the north shore, about 1^^ cables westward of the waterfall,
is iu lat. 51° 81' 49", long. 127° 5G' 23", depending upon Shell island, Beaver
harbour, being in long. 127° 25' 7"".

Fitz-Hugh sound, at 4 miles north of Safety cove, is contracted to IJ miles by
Addenbrooke and adjacent islands, which lie on the east side of the sound ; the
shores on both sides are, however, steep-to, and the depths in the channel from 80 to
140 fathoms.

Kwakshna Faasaga, 7^ miles north of Safety cove, leads to tho sea, and lies between
Calvert and Hecate islands ; this passage is only partially examined ; it has, however,
been nsed by coasting vessels.

sakaiPaaaas*, 6^ miles north of Kwakshua, is an unexplored channel leading to
the sea.

ooldBtraam Barbour,'*' at the soiitii-east entrance of point Hakai passage, affords
good accommodation for small vessels ; it is about 2 cables long 7iorth and south, and
2 cables broad, with depths of 7 to 15 fathoms, sand and mud. 'iiie entvance to this
harbour from Fitz-Hugh sound is through an intricate passage a little over half a cable
wide, between the north extreme of Hecate island which forms the south shore, and an
island about one mile iu extent which forms the north side of Goldstroam harbour.
Evering rock, which dries 8 feet at low water springs, lies near the middle of the
passage aboat 2 cables within the entrance ; it would, therefore, bo advisable in the
absence of good local knowledge, to place a boat near this rock (when covered) before
mtering or leaving the harbour, and proceeding at slow speed, keep in mid-channel,
whore there ia a general depth of G fathoms.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Goldstream harbour at Ih. Om. ;
springs rise 15 feet, neaps 12 feet.

Naiau Faaaase, 4 miles north-westward of Hakai, is an unexplored channel leading
to uio sea.

If amn Barbour,* at tho south entrance of 13urko chanuHl, and one mile south of
Edmund point, east side of Fitz-Hugh sound, lies N.E. by N.G miles from Nalau. It is
three-quarters of a mile long, E.N.E.uui^ W.S.W.,and three-quarters of a mile broad,
with depths of 20 to 28 fathoms ; iu the entrance of tho harbour lies a i wash, a round
island, 200 feet hij^h, a quarter of a mile iu diameter, and covered with trees. South
passage, between iviwasli and Plover island (160 feet high), which forms tho south
entrance point of Namu harbour, is nearly half a mile wide, with 28 to 28 fathoms
water; North passage, between Kiwash and Cliff island, on the northorn side of tho
harbour, is 8 cables wide with 85 to 18 fath )mB water. Namu harbour may be
entered either by North or South passage.

Am-h(ira(je. —Largo vessels should anchoi in 20 futhoniK, in the centre of Namu
harbour, with tho north extreme of Kiwabh islai'd bearing West, and the west extreme

* .!>'« Admiralty plan of thii harbuur on sheat No. lUOl.

mssmmmm

y . v.. ■
! VI

BtTRKE CHANKEL, LAMA PASSAGE, &c.

867

of Plover island S. by E. Small vessels may anchor in Whirlwind bay on the east
side of Namu harbour in 12 fathoms, clay, with the north extreme of Kiwash island
bearing W. by S., and the centre of Clam island (a small island south of the bay)
South. During the autumn and winter months the anchorage in Whirlwind bay is not
recommended as the williwaws blow with furious strength over the mountains
(3000 feet high) in its vicinity. This anchorage is moreover confined by Loo rock
with 8 feet water, lying nearly in the middlo of the bay, and E. by N. J N. 2 cables
from the south extreme of Sunday island.

There is a large stream and an old Indian camp in Whirlwind bay.

Burka Ohannal, on the east side of Fitz-Hugh sound, 8 miles northward of Namu
harbour, leads to Bela-Kula anchorage at the head of North Bentick arm, a distance of
66 miles in a general north-easterly direction, from its junction with Fitz-Hugh sound.

Edmund Point, the south entrance point of Burke channel, has several small
islands near it ; and Walker point, the north entrance point to the channel, is formed
by an island situated 2 miles north-west from Edmund point ; this island is steep-to,
but at a distance of 2 cables the water is not deeper than 2G fathoms, mud bottom,
deepening quickly a short distance farther, a position which might be used in a fog for
anchoring.

Temporary anchorage, north of Walker point, might on emergency (with care, and
■ending a boat ahead) be taken up, but thuro are many covering reefs.

Kiltik, on the west side of Fitz-Hugh sound, opposite Edmund point, is a narrow
creek (less than 2 cables), extending nearly a mile in a westerly direction, with aa
average depth of 20 fathoms in the centre, but shoal for one third of a mile from its
head. This creek it is supposed might be used by moderate sized vessels ; but was
not examined in detail.

Fog Rocks, situated rather on the east side of Fitz-Hugh sound and 3 miles north
of Walker point, consist of six rocks ab( vc water, the highest of which is 26 feet high,
with a few shrubs on it. These rocks (which appear nearly in mid-channel from south-
ward) may be passed on either side at a distance of 9 cables, but the main route lies
to the westward of them — there is a depth of 108 fathoms, mud, between Fog rocks
and tho eastern shore of Fitz-Hugh sound.

Fort^oha. — Four miles north of Lama passage, on the eastern shore of Fisher
channel, and B miles northward of Fog rocks, is an indentation with port John in its
northern part, immediately under Remarkable cone ; and terminating in Evans arm,
to the southward.

Port John (of Yanouuvor) affords anchorage in 20 fathoms, but is much confined by
Mark rock nearly in the middle of tho piaco, and by tho flat extending ofi* the stream
at the head. There is also anchorage at tho head of Evans arm in 20 fathoms, which
may bo reached through South passage, but tho iinmediato approach to it north of
hoot island is foul, and a vessel of size should bo preceded by a boat. North passage
should only be used after temporarily buoying Peril rock.

ijkMA yfAWAAXkti* is the main passage connecting Fisher chauuol (which is the

;. ' 1,

:: 1 •

■.1 '

r
1 1

Ste Aduiiralty cliurt, " Luiuft paudHge auJ Soiitorlh obnnnel," No. 2449.

COAST OF BRITISH COLUMBIA.

northern ooutinnation of Fitz-Hogh soand) with Seaforth channel and Milbank sound ;
its eastern entrance, on the west side of Fisher channel and 6 miles north of Fog. rooks,
may be recognised by a conical moantain, 1000 feet high, on the north-east point of
Hanter island, and by Pointer island, on the sonth side of this entrance, where it ia
nearly a mile wide. Thence the passage trends west 2 miles to abreast Serpent point
on the sonth shore, the breadth being abont half a mile, and the soundings 180
fathoms in the middle, 26 and 26 fathoms near the shores ; it then widens and trends
W.S.W. 4 miles to abreast Twilight point (the south- west point of Denny island) with
no bottom at 88 fathoms near the north shore, and 28, 12, and 20 fathoms dose to
the points extending from the south shore.

The entrance to Plumper channel, which is a mile wide, lies opposite Twilight point,
from which Lama passage turns to the north-west for 4 miles to Grave point, which has
several Indian graves on it ; from 2^ miles north of Twilight point to Grave point the
passage is contracted to 2 cables, with uniform depths of 25 to 80 fathoms.

oeopar xaiirt, situated on the southern shore of Lama passage, 6 miles from the
eastern entrance, is deep and contains several small creeks and rocks ; but in fine
weather anchorage may be obtained in 14 fathoms water under Westminster point, its
north-west point, by bringing it to bear W.N.W., and Harbourmaster point, its north-
east point, just open of the reefs off Charles point N.E. by £. } E.

Jane creek, in the south-east corner of Cooper inlet, may be used by small vessels.
Charles point, its north point, has two reefs extending one cable from it in a north-
westerly direction, the outer of which dries 9 feet. Good anchorage may be had in
this creek in 9 fathoms water, with Charles point in line with the east point of Canoe
bight (on the opposite shore of the passage) bearing N.W. i W., and George point,
the south entrance point of Jane creek, S.W. by W. Large vessels may anchor in
about 18 fathoms midway between Charles and George points ; the bottom in this
creek is generally rocky.

Camp Point, at the south-west extremity of Denny island, and whi'ih is the turning
point into Lama passage, should not be rounded nearer than half a mile, as the
bottom is foul for a distance of 8 cables, with patches that uncover 2 feet at low
water springs.

Mex«iisiiiui Bay,* on the west shore of Lama passage, half a mile south of
Grave point, is a good stopping place ; it is about 4 cables wide and 1 i cables deep,
with 8 to 14 fathoms water. The south point of the bay has a bare summit, 150 leet
high, which in thick weather ia a useful guide to a stranger. The anchorage is in
11 fathoms off the centre of the beach about a cable from the shore, with Grave point
open east of south-west point of Narrows island bearing N. ^ W., and Archibald point
open oast of Napier point 8.E. by E.

In this bay is the site of an old Hudson Bay trading post, which in 1808 was again
used as such, the Bella Bella natives simultaueously migrating hero from the Bella
Bella islands ; there is a small quantity of cleared ground at the foot of a rocky hill

* See Admiralty plan of MoLaugLlin bay on sheet No. 1001.

■.Siii^ttUMiilil

SEAFORTH CHANNEL, &c.

869

200 feet high, a quarter of a mile from the beach, on the west side of which there is 8
lake.*

B«u«8aiuzaiands, bare and about 15 feet high, lie three-qaarters of a mile north of
Grave point ; these islands were, until recently, inhabited during the summer months
by the Indians of the formerly powerful Bella Bella tribes, numbering now however
only (1867) about 45. Temporary anchorage may be had to the eastward of Bella
Bella islands, off a green bushy flat, the old winter residence of the natives.

Kiiek-tao-atu Harbour, on the north side of Denny island, |ind 1^ miles east of
Bella Bella islands, is about half a mile in extent, with depths of 9 to 18 fathoms, and
affords excellent shelter for vessels of any size. Harbour island, off the north-west
point of Elick-tso-alti, has a reef extending one cable from its east end.

Steamer Passage. — The channel south of Harbour island is one cable wide, with a
depth of 7 fathoms, and is suitable for small vessels; large vessels are recommended to
pass north of Harbour island and through Wheelock pass, which lies between a
8-fathom patch near the centre of the channel and Noble point, the north-east entrance
point of the harbour, off which a 8-fathom shoal extends three-quarters of a cable in a
Boath-westerly direction.

The west extreme of Cypress island in fine with the east extreme of Meadow island
bearing N.N.W. \ W. leads through Wheelock pass in 11 to 10 fathoms water, and
when Harbour island bears West a vessel may anchor in 12 fathoms.

If in a large vessel and not wishing to enter Klick-tso-alti harbour, secure anchorage
may be obtained in 16 fathoms, with Harbour island bearing S.S.E. \ E. distant
8 cables.

Ka-Koesh-dtsh Or««k, just north of Noble point, is suitable for small craft, but is
barred across by kelp, having SJ fathoms.

Onnbeat vaMas*, between Denny and Cunningham islands, is narrow and intricate,
containing many rocks and kelp patches. From its western entrance it trends about
E.by N. 6 miles, thence North 2 miles to its eastern entrance, which is at the junction
of Fisher and Deane channels.

. Gunboat passage should not be attempted unless in small handy coasting vessels,
with good local knowledge.

■BAroBTB oeAWNliL. — This is the main channel connecting Lama passage with
Milbank sound ; it is 14 miles long E. by N. and W. by S., with an average breadth
of one mile ; the land on both sides is much broken by islands with cbauuols between
leading north and south ; the water is gouerally deep, and with the Admiralty charts
there should be no difficulty in navigating, in ordinary weather.

Kynumpt Harbenr, on the Rontli slioio of Seafortb channel, and about 2 miles
westward from its junction with Lama pussnge, may bo recognised by Grassy islet,
20 feet high, and Regatta roofs, both of which aro conspicuous, lying in the middle of
the channel U miles eastward of' the harbour, also by White stone, a conspicuous bare

• A rook is saiil, from Indian report, to oxiHt in Lama pauBftgo abreast McLftUKhliu bay, and to
lie half a cable from tl:o Bastorn Hliore, with Napior kioiiit bearing S.S.E. digtuut nearly 6 cables;
thia reported danger may be avoided by keeping in raid-ohaunel.— U.M.S. Amethyst, 1870.

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870

COAST OF BRITISH COLUMBIA.

rock 12 feet high, lying 2 cables west of Kynumpt. This faarbonr is 4 cables long
N.N.W. and S.S.E., and averaging 2 cables iu breadth, with 6 to 16 fathoms, mud ;
tho best anchorage is in 7 to 9 fathoms with the north extreme of Berry point betuing
East, and the west extreme of Low island N.N.E.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Kynumpt, at Oh. 80ro. Springs rise
14 feet, neaps 11 feet.

Observation spot, on Berry point, is in lat. 52° 12' 20", long. 128° II' 87", con-
sidering Shell island, Bearer harbour, to be in 127° 25' 7".

Sail Fatob, with less than 6 feet water, lies half a mile N.N.E. from the entrance
to Kynumpt harbour; from the centre of the patch Defeat point bears 8, | W.,
distant 8^ cables; White stone S.W. by W. ; and west extreme of Low island
S. by W. ; a shoal of 8 fathoms extends 1^ cables to the westward of Dall patch.

To avoid Dall patch, it is recommended to keep tho southern shore on board, which
in this vicinity may be approached to within 1^ cables. Or, if wishing to go north-
ward of the patch : — Grassy islet, in line with the sooth extreme of Hnndyside
island bearing IC. f N. loads nearly midway betweon Dall patch and liegatta reef.

Cod Bank, with 27 fathoms, sand, lies in the middle of the western entrance to
Seaforth channel, N. by W. 1^ miles from Sound point, the south-west entrance point
to Seaforth channel ; there are 58 fathoms on the south side and 1G8 fathoms, rock,
close-to, on the north side of Cod bank.

Anchorof/e. — Between Sound point and Gale creek, at 2^ miles to the eastward of it,
a bank extends about three-quarters of a cable from tho south shore of Seaforth
channel ; on its outer edge — which is steep-to — there are deptlis of 28 and 80 fathoms,
decreasing to IB and 10 fathoms close to the shore for a distance of one mile east of
Sound point. Thence to Gale creek, reefs with 9 fathoms close-to extend about 3
cables from the shore. During foggy weather, temporary auchorago may, with careful
use of the lead, be obtained on this bank.

The following direotious us far us Port Simpson, are compiled from tho Coast Pilot
o/ Alaska, U.S. Coast Survey, 1B69 :—

asiLBANK BOVNn and riirx.ATBON CBAiCNBL. — The entrance to this sound,
in about lat. 52" 13', lies betwoeu tho Bai'dswell group of islands on tho south and
Price island on tlie north ; it is about 8 miles wide and has a grcMit depth of water.
Its south-east poii»t is cape Swaiue, and its north-west point is point l>iiy, olT which lie
several barren rocky islets. The southern side of the sound, being entirely covered with
trees and having low shores, is very pleasnut in appearance, but its northern shores are
wild, consisting of low rugged cliflfs, fronted by innuniorubia rocky ialetsnud rocks.

A short distance within the sound, on its eastern side, is the entrance to Seaforth
channel, described on page 800. Northward of Milbauk sound the strait, taking tho
name of Finlnysou channel, runs nearly North for 82 miles to Carter bay, with an
average width of 2 miles. From tho south entranoo of tho chuuuol a peculiarly
marked high pyramidal mountain is soon to the N.N.E. This mountain is 2020 feet
high and is wooded nearly to its summit ; it is named Striped mountain, on account of
a great white streak down its south side, evidently the rock denuded of soil and trees.
Tlie land at tho base of the mountain is flat, sparsely covered with herbage. It ia the
first uiitimbered spuco met with in going north through these chauuols.

BBB

GRENVILLE CHANNEL.

871

In lat. 52° 48' Finlayson channel divides ; a narrow continnation runs N.N.E. and
an arm, known as Ship passage, stretches E.N.E. to Mussel inlet.

Carter Bay. — Facing the south, with a channel to the north-west and another to the
north-east, lies the opening of this bay, having a wooded mountain 2180 feet high on
the west and another 2310 feet high on the east. Carter bay is one of the most con-
venient anchorages in these channels ; it is about a mile deep by half a mile wide,
gradually decreasing to the head where a flat has formed at the mouth of a small rapid
stream. The best anchorage is in 15 fathoms, muddy bottom, about .*)00 yards from
either shore, and 400 yards from the flat. From the anchorage, looking towards
Finlayson channel, a splendid view presents itself ; precipitous mountains overhang
the vessel on either hand, and high mountains are seen in the distance on both sides
of the channel.

arataam and Fraser Beaches. — North of Carter bay the main channel trends in a
north-westerly direction for 34 miles to Kingcome point, where it makes a sharp turn
to the westward. This channel averages about half a mile in width, with very preci-
pitous shores, and a great depth of water. Five miles from the southern entrance of
this narrow strait is » dangerous rock, known as Hewitt rock, lying in mid-channel
and having only 10 feet water over it. To avoid this danger " keep the north shore
aboard." In about latitude 58° 5', on the western shore, is a cascade formed by agi'eat
body of water pouring over a rocky incline from a lake at the base of an immenso
circle of perpendicular mountains. In about latitude 53° 12' there is an island in the
middle of the strait, abreast which, on the east side, a deep bay opens and stretches
2 miles northward. Off point Kingcome, at the head of the strait, and to the west-
ward of it, are soundings without bottom in 18!) and 171) fathoms.

At point Kingcome one of the three groat arms stretches northward 40 miles ;
about 8 miles from the point, on tho east shore, there is anchorage at the mouth of
Fisherman or Ribachy creek. From point Kingcouio the main channel runs westward
9 miles, where great channels open to the north and south, but the diicct route is
through Grenville channel, the southern entrance of which lies N. GO" W. 8 miles from
the north point of Horno bay. ,

Borne Bay (or Holmes bay) is one of the few anchorages in this vicinity, and is
situated directly under the point 7 or 8 miles westward of point Kingcome ; it is con-
tract(.'d, very deep, except at the head, where vessels anchor in 17 fathoms water,
200 yards from the beach. It is open to the north-west.

OBENViLLB CHAXfNEZi. — Froui tlio south entrance, in lat. 58° 21', this remark-
ably straight and narrow channel runs 45 miles in a north-westerly direction, separating
the island of Pitt, on the west, from the mainland. Tiio depth throughout tho
greater part ranges from 01 to li) fiithoms, over rocky bottom, and 70 fathoms over
mud. 'i'lio narrowest part of tlie strait is not more than 700 yards wide, and on account
of the groat height of tho shores appears much less. The scenery is very wild and
mountainous, some of tho mountains rising to the height of ^000 to 8000 I'eet.

Lowe InUt, on tho cast shore of tho channel, 14 miles from the southern entrance,
affords good anchorage in 18 fathoms water, half a mile inside the entrance. Tho
approach to this inlel tVom thf soutii is indicated by a bare iiill, 400 feet liigh, on tho
westoru shore ; it is situatod 2 miles south-east of tho entrance of the iulct.

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872

COAST OF BRITISH COLUMBIA.

Stswart Harbour, 5 miles from the northern entrance of Grenville channel and on
the western shore, also affords anchorage in 10 fathoms water, on the north-west side
of a point forming the eastern side of the harbour. Half a mile north-west of the
extremity of this point are some dangerous sunken rocks. {See Admiraltj chart,
No. 1901.)

The northern end of Grenville channel expands to 8 miles in width, but the middle
is occupied by a large group of comparatively low wooded islands, known as the Gibson
group. The usual channel is to the westward of them, and when abreast them the
wide passage to the sea, known as Ogden channel, opens to the south-west. North of
Gibson islands the waters expand into large arms and sounds ; the principal of these,
Chatham sound, lying nearly north and south for 40 miles, connects the waters above
described with those of Dixon sound and the straits of the Alexander archipelago.
There are numerous rocky islets and shoals in Chatham sound, but their positions on
the chart are considered doubtful. On the east side, in lat. 64° 20', lies Tugwell
island, connected with the mainland by a low sand spit, nearly 2 miles long east and
west, and formin" the bay of Metlakatla on the south, and Duncan bay on the north
side. A thriving village is located here. «

POXT 8UCFBON.=^ — In the easternmost part of Dixon sound, where it meets tho
noiih part of Chatham sound, and 15 miles north of Duncan bay, lies the harbour
known as Port Simpson ; it is open to the west, but in a measure protected by a large
reef and by Bimie island. The noi'thern shores of this bay run north-west and south-
east for nearly 4 miles, and the south shore lies nearly east aud west, over 2 miles.
On the north side of the south-west point is the usual anchorage, off the station of the
Hudson Bay Company, and the large village of the Chim-shyans. Two miles west-
ward of fort Simpson lies the north end of the moderately high wooded island named
Finlayson, from which the south end of the wooded island, named Bimie, is distant
1^ miles in a northerly direction. Two passages lead to the port ; one, the southern,
lies between the east shore of Finlayson island aud the main ; it is 8 miles long and
half a mile wide in the narrowest part, with a very narrow passage through the reef.
Another, the northern and safer passage, lies between Birnio island and the northern
side of Harbour reef; this channel is half a mile wide, has 17 to 24 fathoms water,
and is known as Inskip passage. Vessels should pass within a quarter of a mile of
the south rocky point of Bimie island, steering E.S.E. one mile, or until the eastern-
most Indian houses bear U.S.E., aud run for them until the stockade bears S. \ W.
about 8 cables distant, when anchor in 10 or 11 fathoms. Vessels approaching the
port by the northern passage must be careful to avoid an extensive reef, named iho
Pointers, lying 8 miles westward of Bimie island.

Tidet. — It is high water, full and change, at 12h. 85ra. ; springs rise 2H feet,
and neaps 14^ feet.

rerl Simpson is a stockaded post of the Hudson Bay Company, and tho most
important in this part of the country. It consists of a square tiuibered palisade, with

* Stt idiniraltj plan of Port Bitnpion, No. 3430.

SSBSBaUi

iiailliiiilMMi

DIXON SOUND.

878

a front of 200 feet and depth of 160 feet having wooden bastions nt the nurth-west
»nd south-west angles. It is entered by a large gate opposite the beach and has one
or two smaller doors at the rear, leading to the gardens. Within this stockade are
large wooden buildings for the traders, &c. ; the great building on the west side is
for the reception of furs until ready for shipment.

The habitations for the Indians number about 100 and are generally built of wood,
SO to 40 feet wide, 60 feet long, and 15 to 20 feet high. Before most of these houses
there is a tall thick post, carved with grotesque figures. When all the tribes are
assembled they nomber about 2000; very few are hunters, most of them being inter-
traders.

The approximate geographical position of fort Simpson is lai- 64° 88' 85", long.
130° 22' 49" (U.S. Coast Survey).

socoir BOVzn>. — This sheet of water, opening upon the Pacific Ocean, lies between
the north side of the Queen Charlotte group and the south capes and shores of the
Alexander archipelago, between latitudes 54° 10' and 54° 85', and longitudes 181°
and 188° 80'. On the northern part are the entrances of several extensive straits and
sounds ; at tho north-eastern part is the channel leading to Portland canal, the southern
dividing line between British Columbia and Alaska.

Dixon sound is comparatively free from dangers, having, however, a few rocks on
the north side, the positions of which as laid down on He chart are considered
doubtful.

1 .. "

(^UEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

Ma;iiif!tic Variation in 1880. — 26° to 27° E. It is estimated to increase about

8 minutes annually.

These islands although among the British Possessions are but little known, and the
few shipmasters who have visited them have scarcely increased our acquaintance with
them. The following instructions are almost entirely fi-om a hydrographic notice by
Mr. George H. luskip, R.N., of H.M. steamer Virago, 1863. The remarks on the
physical geography of the islands are chiefly compiled from an article on tho subject
by Mr. Ilobort Brown, F.R.G.S., 1870.*

OBirsRAZ, BI1MARX8. — The Queen Charlotte islands, so named in 1787 from the
vessel commanded by Captain Dixon, one of the earlier explorers of the group, extend
100 miles in a N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction. The greatest breadth of the group at the
northern extremity, is about (30 milcH, whence it gradually diminishes to cape St. James,
the southern extremity, where it terminates in a point, — giving tho whole chain of

-i i

* Reference should be made to the Admiralty charts Nns. 2480 and 2168.
See also the interesting remarks upon tlie islands by Mr. Iiiukip in the Nautical Magazint, 18S6,
and those by the officers of U M.S. Virago, in the Nautical Magazine, 1864.

'4 I

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874

QUEEN CHAJiLOTTE ISLANDS.

islands a wedge shape form. The group, consisting of three principal islands and
several smaller ones, is situated approximately between latitudes 51' 5i' and 54° 21',
longitudes 131° and 133° 5', and at distances, varying from 20 to 80 miles according
to the trend of the coast, from the nearest islands lying immediately off the mainland.
It is only on very clear days, and at the narrowest portion of the strait that Queen
Uharlotte islands can be seen from the mainland or vice versa, and then only as a hazy
outline.

The channels separating the larger islands are named Houston Stewart, and Skide-
gate ; the former channel runs between Prevost and Moresby islands, and the latter
between Moresby and Graham islands.

The western shores of all the islands are much more rugged and precipitous than the
eastern, and the southern islands are much lower than the more northern ones.
Moresby island is said to be high and mountainous in the interior, but having a long
stretch of flat land skirting its eastern coast.

The interior of the Queen Charlotte islands has not yet been explored, but it is believed
to be very mountainous, and thickly covered with forest trees and undergrowth. In
fact, the whole country in this region of the North Pacific is densely wooded, rendering
the operations of exploring parties both difficult and arduous. The absence of large
game in these islands also adds to the difficulty of exploring them. From certain
localities the Indians are in the habit of passing through the islands, but they do not
appear to be m\ich acquainted with the greater part of the interior.

The Nativeti. — The only people permanently inhabiting the islands are the Indians,
generally known by the name of Hydulis ; they are one people, speaking the same
language, and having a similar appearance, but they are divided into several tribes
under different names. Physically, they are perhaps the finest race on the North
American continent ; as warriors they are very bold, and they are said to be cruel and
vindictive iu the extreme.

It is reported that they hold slaves, and frequently treat them very cruelly. Tliey
are fond of travelling, and make voyages of several hundred miles in their canoes,
visiting Sitka to the north, and Victoria harbour (Vancouver) to the south.

Some of the woman are very good lookinf;, though often full in the face. They
have, however, a most hideous custom of di&figuriug the lower lip by inserting through
it a bono ornament, concave externally and internally, which has the effect of causing
the lip to protrude in a shelf-like form. Of late years, however, the young ones havo
been giving this practice up, finding that it is not agreeable to their Caucasian
admirers. The men and woman are tall, muscular, and erect. The face is full, with
well-formed head, not iu any way disfigured or compressed, as in the more southern
tribes. Their hands and feet are small, and well-formed. Their colour is very fair,
and in the women, who are not much exposed to the weather, there is a mixture of
red and white in their cheeks, not seen in any other aboriginal American race. Their
eyes are horizontal, eyebrows rather sloping upwards, and not bushy. Tatooiug on the
back of the hands and arms, often into fanciful resemblance to the human features, is
occasiontilly seen, and sometimes, as in the women, a few slight streaks (in blue) on
the chocks ; but this is not universal. The women have their wrists, and somotimcs
their ankles, profusely ornamented with bracelets of native mauufacture, made out of

GENERAL REMARKS.

87S

silver coin, obtained from the traders who visit them. They also wear ear-ringa and
rings of the same metal ; and often these pieces of jewelry display wonderful skill and
taste in the workmanship.

The Hydahs are divided into seven tribes : — 1. The Skider/ates, claiming the whole
of the Sound of the same name, and the greater portion of the outside coast of Gra-
ham's island, and down to Gumschaw harbour. 2. The Laskeeks ; these claim the sound,
and divide the rest of the east coast not appropriated by the Skidegates between
themselves and the next tribe. 8. CUws, about the southern portion of Moresby
island. 4. Kuntj-at-adi, on St. Anthony's island, aud near capo St. James. They
claim all the coanti^ up to near Tasso harbour. Ihere are no Indians here, but the
(5) Skitons, or Gold harbour Indians, claim all the coast up to cape Knox. The
northern end of Graham's island is claimed by the (6) Ma.saels. Masset harbour runs
for about 20 miles in • southerly direction, with a large and beautiful river flowing iu
at the head. There are two Indian villages on the right-hand side of the harbour,
and one on the left. The tribe is the largest and most powerful in the island. The
Massets travel south to Skidegates village overland, keeping, for a short distance, by
the sea, and take, according to the state of the trail and place where they strike into
the interior, from one and a half to three, and even seven days. The Skidegates also
travel by this way, and theii* journeys are generally taken in winter, when they are
afraid to venture on the outside with their canoes. They are, however, very skilful
and courageous men ; they cross over from the islands to the mainland iu large war-
canoes. In Virago sound are afso several Indian villages. Stanelys river here
empties into the sea. It is said to How out of a large lake in the interior, in which
the river at Masset harbour also takes its rise. On this lake the Indians declare there
is a powerful tribe, who would slay the coast Indians if they ventured there. 7. Tho
Cfumchaus claim the harbour of the same name, and the adjoining territory.

The total population of these tribes has been variously stated, but in all probability
they do not now exceed 5000, though formerly they numbered more,being estimated
at 8000 to 10,000 in 1839.

Minerals, <I!t. — Tho general structure of these islands appears to be beds of conglo-
merate, slate', coal, and sandstone, resting upon erupted greenstone, the whole being
much contorted and altered by the agency of heat.

The coal found iu Skidegato bay has all the character of anthracite, but is meta-
morphosed by the presence of igneous rock. Some portions of the scam are soft, like
gimpowder ; while scattered here aud there through this are seams of hard anthracite.
This coal is said to be almost as good as Pennsylvania anthracite for smelting purposes,
its heat-glviug properties being immense. In the neighbourhood of Masset harbour a
coal, resembling cannol coal, has been observed. Copper (chieHy iu sulphates and
carbonates) has been found at several places on the island, and at Gumshaw harbour,
on Moresby island, a company was engaged for some time in working the ore. On
some of tho northern parts of the island copper has also been found, aud one specimen
gave an analysis OG lbs. to the ton — value about .^IIUO the ton. Half-way between
Tasso harbour and Awee the Indians say there is plenty of copper. Gold has been
found iu quartz veins on the island in considerable quantities. As far back as 1850
or 1840 tho ludians were iu the habit of bringing rough gold to Port Simpson, on the

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S76

QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

raaiuland, opposite Queen Charlotte islands. This gold they obtained from .. locality
on the west of the island, now called Gold harbonr. The Indians lit fires over the
vein, then dashed water over it when hot to disintegrate the quartz, and with the aid
of tomahawks grubbed out the pieces, which they sold. To this day Indians bring
pieces of gold to Victoria, and a periodical semi-excitement ensues over them. The
vein as originally found (in Mitchell harbour, an anchiiage of Gold harbonr) was
7 inches wide, was traced for 8C feet and contained 25 per cent of gold in many places.
The heaviest specimen of pure gold yet obtained from this locality weighed 14 to 16
ounces.

Among- other economic minerals steatite has been found on the shores of Skidegate
ebannel. Boiling springs are said to be found at Clew, on the sonthemmust island.
These hot springs are found at different places in British Columbia, and many in
southern Oregon ; sometimes a boiling and an icy cold one are within two or three
yards of each other. There are no volcanoes, either active or extinct, in these islands.

Vegetation, dc. — The whole of the islands with the exception of some insignificant
patches of open land, are wooded down to the water's edge, the sea in many places
washing the very roots of the trees. This forest consists of the ordinary coniferse and
deciduous trees common to the North Pacific. Menzies spruce is the most common
tree, and in some places attains gigantic proportions. The undergrowth is mainly
"salal" which, in this wet climate, attains much greater luxuriance than further south.
No sort of cultivated plant is grown by the natives except potatoes, which are produced
in more considerable quantities than by any tribe or race of Indians, and in very
excellent quality.

Zoology, dc. — Must of the wild animals of the North Pacific are found on these
islands or frequeutiug the sea, laving their shores. A remarkable exception is, how-
ever, any species of deer or wolf, a natural sequence, though both are most abundant
on the mainland immediately adjoining. The beaver is reported to be found. Bears
and sea otters abound, and on the west coast and oi Prevost island are many large
fur seals. Only one species of salmon visits the ishuds, which is said to arrive in
May. Accordingly, most of their supplies of salmon are bought from the Tsempsheans
and other tribes on the mainland. Sea-fish are abundant enough. Halibut are caught
in great quantities on the west coast of Graham's island, and hither the Indians resort
every year to catch, split, and dry them for winter use. Immense fiocks of wild geese
and duck at times visit the islands. Potatoes, fish and other products are all to bo
bought either for money, strong cotton shirts, cotton dresses, plain cotton, knives,
tobacco, mother of pearl jacket buttons for ornamenting their blankets, or any of the
articles commonly bartered among savages.

The bears, martens, sea and land otters are caught for their furs, which are taken to
the Hudson Bay Co.'s establishment at fort Simpson (port Machlochlin), or to Rupert
fort (Beaver harbour) in Vancouver island.

Climate, dc. — Though situated so far north, the climate of the Queen Charlotte
islands, from their insular position, is much milder than that of the mainland. Some men
who wintered upon them described the temperature as being moderate, little snow and
a great deal of rain. Indeed, all north of Fraser river the climate is very moist. At

^auas

mamm

TT1

HOUSTON STEWART CHTANNEL, 4c.

877

Sitka it rains almost eontinnoosly, the average rainfall amounting to nearly 89 inches
per annum. The tides, us all over the north-west coast, where there are so many
inlets and circuitous hays, coves, and sounds, are very irregular, and Httle dependence
can be placed on them. At Skidegate harbour, on the 17th of April, 1866, the rise
and fall of the tide was found to be 27x''o feet.

OAFz: ST. JAMBB, SO named by Mr. Dixon from the saint's day upon which it was
first seen, is the southern extremity of Prevost island ; its approximate geographical
position is lat. 61° 54', long. 181° 2'. The land about it has very moderate elevation;
but, similar to that in the northern part of the islands, it rises gradually to the rugged
and uneven mountains, which occupy the centre of the group. When approaching the
islands from southward, it is the high land behind the cape that will be first seen.
The cape is formed by several islets and rocks, and until the sea in its vicinity is
examined, must be approached with extreme caution, for it is said that a sunken ledge
extends from it 8 to 5 miles between the directions of S.S.E. and S.E., the edges of
which arc probably steep."*: With the cape bearing W. by S. f S. about 8^ miles, and
the outermo' rock above water S.W. i S., a cast of 90 fathoms have been obtained.

BOV8TON STEWABT CBAivinix,. — From cape St. James the eastern coast of
Prevost island is much broken, with one round thickly wooded and conspicuous island
and several little islets and rocks along it, and trends nearly N.W. to a well defined
headland, which after rounding the eastern entrance to Houston Stewart channel and
Rose harbour will opeu out. At about 4 miles from the entrance there arc '. ' fathoms
water, and the depth gradually shoals to 20 fathoms to within a mile of it ; from this
distance off, the soundings are very irregular, varj'ing from 30 to 7 fathoms, over a
series of ridges or bars of rock, sand, shell, and mud.

Enteritiff from Edstward. — In the eastern entrance to this channel, which is about
three-quarters of a mile wiuu, i,uere are 20 fathoms water. Within Forsyth point, on
the north side of the entrance, is a snug bay, bordered by a sandy beach, in which, at
nearly three-quarters of a mile from Forsyth point, and at a third of a mile from the
beach, is a very secure and convenient an<^horage in 16 fathoms.

At a quarter of a mile inside Forsym point, and a little to the northward of the line
of direction of the channel, is a rocky piitch with kelp, having only one fathom on it
a vessel therefore should not haul to the northward too soon afler entering. On the
southern side of the channel are some small wooded islands, here and there fringed
with outlying patches of kelp, which latter should always be avoided. W.S.W.
1^ miles from Forsyth point is the Trevan rock, lying nearly mid-channel, and con-
tracting the passage on its northern side to rather less than half a mile ; patches of
kelp and the largest of the islands before mentioned render the other side impassable,
excepting for boats ; close to the north side of this rock the depth is 7 fathoms. At
a mile farther in, the channel branches off both to the northward and southward.

Entering from Westu-ard. — The southern arm of Houston Stewart channel is about

' ii

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I I:

* Mr. Qray of the Columbia informed Vancouver that he had struck and received material damage
upon a Bunken rock at a much greater distance from tlie cape than a league, though in the same
direction an that mentioned, between 6.S.E. and S.£.

■M ■ :

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878

QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

8 miles long, and three-qnarters of a mile wide, with several small islands at its
southern end or entrance from the Pacific. The shores of both sides are bold and
densely wooded. ' A vessel coming from the southward and wishing to go in by this
entrance, when abreast cape St. James, should close the land to 1^ miles, and after
coasting it for about 12 miles, the entrance will open out. After passing a convenient
distance isoathward of the largest and outer island at the entrance, named Anthony
island (off the southern end of which an extensive ledge of rocks projects in a south-
west direction), the channel will show itself ; the other islands are all wooded ; a bare
flat rock which lies much nearer tho western than the eastern side, and which should
be kept on the port hand, will be a good guide. There is an Indian village of the
Shangoi tribe on St. Anthony island ; the natives are very wild, and persons visiting
or trading with them should be on their guard.

Bom Barbonr. — This secure and capacious harbour forms the northern arm rf
Eouston Stewart channel. It runs up in a northerly direction for 8 miles Lorn its
junction with the channel, and is a continuation in nearly a straight lino with the last-
mentioned portion of it. For the first 2 miles the average breadth of the harbour is
three-quarters of a mile ; the western shore rises boldly with deep water close-to ; the
eastern shore although high, has kelp along it, with shoal water. The harbour then
contracts to half a mile, between two low points forming its head. Beyond these
points is a basin, about 2 miles in circumference, filled with rocks and woody islets ;
the land on its north and west sides is high and mountainous, whilst that on its
eastern side is low.

Tho country around this locality is mountainous, and thickly wooded ; but the
timber is smaller and less valuable than that in the magnificent forests of Vancouver
island. The soil is poor, but there are indications of copper in different places. The
sea otter, the fur of which fetches very high prices iu China, are numerous.

Tii* Coas*. — About 8 miles northward of the eastern entrance to Houston Stewart
channel, and at about 2 miles off the coast, is a ledge of rocks, lying a little above
water ; the sea breaks violently over Va^.m, and for a considerable distance around ; —
other rocks encircle these, but they are under water. From Houston Stewart channel
to Cumsbewas harbour, ou the eastern side of Moresby island, a distance of about
60 miles, the coast is high, and broken into numerous inlets, with many islets along
it, probably affording good harbours. Cumsbewas harbour is in about lat. 53°.

Cumsbewas Harbour trends nearly E.S.E. and W.N.W., and is reported to be both
large and safe. A spit, on which the sea breaks heavily, runs off its southern point of
entrance nearly two-thirds of the way across to the northern side. The channel in is
over a bar with 8 fathoms water on it : this bar connects the end of the spit with the
northern shore, inside the north point of eutrauce, and off which lies a small island.

BxnmaATXi habbovb and OHANNSZ.. — About 20 miles north-westward of
Cumsbewas harbour is the t itrance to hikidogate harbour and channel. The inter-
mediate coast is lower and m ire level than that to the southward, with an extensive
bank along it for some miles before coming to Skidegate, the depth being as little as
7 fathoms, at 8 to 4 miles off shore.

Skidegate harbour is very spacious, and communicates with the Pacific at Cart-

msmm

SKIDEGATE HARBOUR AND CHANNEL.

879

Wright soand, near Buck point; the channel, however, is intricate, and only navigable
for canoes a portion of the way through. The southern point of the eastern entrance
is low and woody, and a spit, with only from one to 2 fathoms on it at low water,
extends in a N.W. direction for ahout 4 miles, to within one mile of Dead Tree point,
which is the northern point of entrance, and receives its name from the number of
dead trees upon it. A rock, just awash at low water springs, lies near the outer
extreme of the spit, about one mile from this point, but the available passage between
is not more than half a mile wide, as the spit extends beyond the rock, and the shore
near the point is not bold.

Directiotis. — "Vhen bound into Skidegate harbour, first get well to the northward of
its entrance, and run along the shore keeping about half a mile distant from it, in
abunt 7 to 8 fathoms water, and paying strict attention to the soundings, until Dead
Tree point bears W.N.W., wher the water will deepen to 15 fathoms; then steer more
to the eastward, and the water will shoal again, and if the weather is clear, a remark-
able promontory (looking like an island) will be seen ?t the head of the harbour, also
the two village isla ids, unless it be very thick, can always be recognised.

Keep the promontory just touching the eastern side of the village islands (when in
one), bearing South, and it will lead in over the bar in 5 fathoms ; after passing the
bar, the water will deepen to 15 or 16 fathoms, and the village islands can be passed
on either side. If the inside passage (which is about a quarter of a mile - wide) is
used, keep in mid-channel, and follow the shore for about 2 miles, round two small
points to the anchorage, which is in a capacious and pleasant looking bay, in 13
fathoms water, over muddy bottom, at one-third of a mile from the beach ; the sur-
rounding land is moderately high and thickly wooded.

The village of Skidegate is situated in the bay, off which are the village islands, and
consists of many houses fronting the beach, all of which are dirty and smell strongly
of fish. The Indians are a finer race than the Vancouver islanders, and although very
dirty, are much cleaner in their personal appearance. A space of ground near the
village is cleared of brushwood for potatoes, which thrive exceedingly well. Plenty of
wood and water can be obtained, and the natives will gladly assist if paid with tobacco,
&c. for their labour. Some distance from the anchorage, and on the sirld of a moun-
tain, are large quantities of coal, of a description very similar to that discovered at
Nanaimo in Vauciuver island ; it is, however, in too inconvenien; a position to be
worked.

Ttae Coast. — The coast between Skidegate and Rose point, the north-east extreme
of Graham island, being rather low, with dangerous fiats runiiing off it, should be
given a berth of at least 6 or 7 miles, and the lead \ept constantly going whilst
running along it; the soundings were from 9 to 11 fathoms. Cape Ball, nearly
20 miles from Skidegate bar, is very conspicuous, having a remarkable white cliff on
it, with lower cliffs cu either side ; it cannot be mistaken, for there is no land like it
between Skidegate and Rose point. Captain McNeil, of the Hudson Bay Company's
Bervice, found a rock with onlv S fathoms on it lying East about 6 miles from cape Ball.

Rose point is low, and has a dangerous spit ruimingoffit in a N.E. direction for
nearly 5 miloa. With the point bearing W.S.W. about 6 miles, a round shaped bill»

ill
I

1 f 1^

' }■.

880

QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

named Macroon, will open out clear of the land off vihiih this spit runs; the hill is
about 800 or 400 feet high, but shows out so distinctly as to look almost an island.
This part of Dixon channel, between the land near Rose spit and Stephens island on
the continental side, is about 20 miles wide, with soundings quite across. When the
centre of Zayas islind bore N. by W. i W., and the north extreme of Stephens island
E. by N. f N., whi?.h is about half-way between Rose spit and Brown passage, the
depth was 15 fathoms.

The bank of sounding', between Ro&e point and Stephens island was found very use-
ful on one occasion, during a strong breeze from the S.E., with thick weather, when
the Virago anchored on it and remained until it cleared np, and the land became visible.

The coast from Rose point to Yirago sound is low, and thickly wooded for some
miles from the shore, which has a bank running off it, and should be approached with
caution, with the lead constantly going. At 8 miles N.N.E. ^ E. from the east point
of Yirago sound, the depth was 62 fathoms over sand (there are soundings outside this
for several miles) ; at 5 miles off, the soundings were about the same ; at 2 miles
there were 28 fathoms, sand, aud the water then gradually shoaled in to the shore.
From Yirago sound to North island, the coast is tolerably bold, excepting in one or
two places, where there are some rocks, but they do not extend far off, and are
above water.

MASBBT HABBOTTB. — Rather moro than 20 miles S.W. J S. from Rose point is
Masset harbour, the entrance to which is formed between a low p nt, with a ledge of
rocks half a mile off it covered with kelp, on the western side, and Uie point of a long
spit partly dry (the surf usually breaking the whole length of it), on the eastern, the
pnssnge between having an extensive bar. With the outer western point bearing
W. by N., one -niie, the depth is 5 fathoms at low water ; from this position the coui-se
in is about S. by E. ^ E., the scundings over the bar varying from 8 to C fathoms, for
about 8 nilies, to abreast a village on the western shore, a little more than a mile from
what may bo termed the inner or proper entrance to the harbour ; the water then
suddenly deepens to 9 and 11 fathoms, the channel lying in the direction of the eastern
point of what has been cnllotl the inner entrance, and the depth, at about 2 cables from
the beach that forms it, being from 10 to 13 fathoms. Just inside, and round this
point, is a pretty bay, with a beacli, containing the principal village, off the centre of
which there is anchorage in 10 fathoms. The ebb tide runs very strong, making this
by no means a good anchorafjo.

At this part the width of the harbour is nearly 2 miles, a large sand bank filling up
its western side. The natives describe the harbour as running in a southerly direction
for many miles, and widening out considerably, with deep water, aud that several years
ago, ships (some having three masts) used to anchor in it.

In 1852 the Indians belonging to this place seized, plundered, and burnt an Ameri-
can schooner, the master and crew being spared through the influence of the
chief; this should plu'j ^uy one who may happen to visit these people on their
guard.

TXKAOO Bovifo. — Hetwoen Masset harbour and Yirago sound, which lies about
10 liiiles to the westward, there is good anchorage in some places, in which a vessel

lis

id.

on
the

VIRAGO SOUND AND PARRY PASSAGE.

881

mtght remain a night instead of keeping under- way, or craising about with a S.E.
wind, and thick weather.

The outer anchorage of Virago sound is sheltered from all winds to the southward
of East and West. With two small wooded islets on the west side of the entniuce,
bearing W. J S. 1 mile, the east point N.E. J E. 2 miles, and the opening to tlio
inner harbour South about 2 miles, the depth is 7 fathoms water, over sand and shells ;
the shores are low and fringed with kelp, but the lead will be a safe guide, as the
water shoals gi'adually towards the land.

The inner harbour of Virago sound (the native name of which is Nadeu,) is capacious,
and sheltered from every wind. For about ovie mile outoide the entrance there are
several banks, formed probably by the sand, &c., washed down by the ebb stream;
which runs with considerable strength. The rise and fall of the tide is about 13 feet.
The narrowest part of the entrance is aboul half a mile wide, with a deep water channel,
which for the first 2 miles is intricate and should not be attempted until properly
sounded. The western side of one part of the channel, which may be called the
narrows, is completely blocked up by rocks, which show towards low water ; within
these the channel is much clearer, and runs up in a southerly direction for 2 miles
farther, and then widens out into an extensive and magnificent harbour, several miles
in circumference, having, it is believed, sufficient water for any vessel. Two streams,
navigable for boats, empty them&<)Ives at the head of the harbour, and some small jr
ones exist in other parts of it.

The village is to be built inside it point on the western side the narrowest part of
entrance. Some ground near it ia cleared for potatoes, which are much used by the
natives, and form one of their principal articles of food.

rjuiST FABBAoa, named after the late Sir E. Parry, separates North island
(which forms tiie north-western extremity of the Queen Charlotte islands,) from Graham
island. Rocky ledges run off its southern side for about a mile, but there is a good
and clear channel between them and North island. The tidal streams rush through
thA passage, and form a perfect race. On the south side of the passage is, or was, a
village.

Just without th«j eastern entrance of Parry passage, and on the south side, is a bay
with r ichorage in it. A line of kolp friuges the bhore, which is studded with rocky
patches and stones. This is not a good anchorage, as the flood sets into it from the
passage, forming a number of eddies, and rendering it almost impossible to lie ui single
anchor without fouling it. The country at the back is low and covered with trees,
with hero and there giassy spots.

On the south side of North island, in Parry passage, is a snng cove named Henslung,
in which whalers occasionally anchor. The Virofio anchored in it in 30 fathoms water,
and had but just room to swing clear of the precipitous rocks which form its western
side. At the head of the cove is a sandy beach, with a stream of water running
through it. The whole island is thickly wooded.

On the eastern side of North island there is said to bn a good anchorage in a bay
which was formerly often used by the vessels belonging to the old North West company.

Directions. — When leaving the we8t«rii ouiiauco to Parry pucsugc, get v. good ofiiug

jiiS

•: t '

tip

■ 1

,1^

s^u

I f

882

QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

■

before hauling to the southward, as a rocky ledge runs off cape Knox for about 8 milefl
in a westerly direction, the sea breaking with great violence on several parts of it.
When well out, Frederick point will show like a low projecting point of an island,
(which it is,) about 18 miles to the southward. At 2 or 8 miles southward of Parry
passage is an indentation of the shore, which might be taken as its entrance by a vessel
coming from southward, — a mistake that might lead to serious consequences, as the
whole coast, as far as Frederick point, appears to contain several open bays, with out-
lying rocks off each of them. The Indians, in their sketches of this part of the coast,
do not draw any harbours, but merely exposed bays.

Hippa Zaiand, lying 25 miles southward of Frederick point, is high and bold to
seaward. This portion of the coast is higher and more broken than the former, the
openings appearing deeper, neither does it seem to have so many rocks lying off it.
The Indians show some good harbours towards Hippa. When abreast Hippa island.
Buck point, 80 miles distant, and also cape Henrj 1 w i r 12 miles farther to the south-
ward, can be seen, the coast presenting the same ii.j^.^ md broken appearance as the
preceding 25 miles. All the points along this part much resemble Buck point, which
is rather low and rugged, jutting out from the high land at the back.

Buek Point is on the southern side of Skidegate channel, which leads through to
Skidegate. It has a large high island just northward of it, and there is another, much
smaller and peaked, standing out clear of the land, at about 8 or 4 miles farther north-
ward, and lying in the entrance of Cartwright sound, which is formed between Buck on
the south, and Hunter point on the north. Just southward of Buck point, in Engle-
field bay, is an opening, probably leading into a harbour.

insxiF CHANiVBZi. — Englefield bay has Buck point on the north, and cape Henry
on tho south, with Kuper or Kennedy island in its southern part. This island has a
channel on either side leading into Mitchell harbour, known also as Gold harbour.
The northern, or Inskip channel, which leads round the north side of Kuper island,
was first used by the Viraf/o in 1853, its entrance being a few miles south of Buck
point. It is about 8J^ miles long, and half a mile wide. A little without it, there are
some small islands on either side, but there will be no difficulty in discovering the
passage in. In the channel there was no bottom at 00 fathoms, but at the eutrarco a
cast of 85 fathoms was obtained on a halibut bank. At a short distance inside the
islands, on tho port side of the entrance, is a village belonging to tho Kilkite tribe.
Farther in, on tho same side, and about 8J miles up, is a deep opening, and where
this and Moore channel meet are two other openings to harbours, with some small
islands lying near them. This cliannol is no doubt equally as safe as tho other.

BSOOiiB CHANNEL, ou thu Houth side of Kuper island, is named after Mr. Moore,
laiQ Master of H.M.S. Tliclii. This officer mado a survey of both it and, Mitchell
harbour whilst in that ship, which was sent to protect British intorcstH in 1852,
during the time that a large number of adventurers from (California Imd ooUoctod
here to dig and search for gold, some of that metal having been discovered by tho
Indians. This channel is 5 miles long in an E.N.E. and W.B.W. direction, and half
a mile wido, tho shore on each side being hold of approach, high, and covered with
trees nearly down to tho water's edge. In mid-channel there is no bottom al 70

MOORE CHANNEL, TASSO HARBOUR, Ac.

nH3

fathoms. On the north side, just withont the entrance, are some small rocky islets,
named Moresby islands, and on the south side a few rocks close in shore.

Kltehcll or aold Barbour, about 2.^ miles deep and hal'' a mile wide, is surronndrd by
precipitous and densely wooded hills, from 700 to 800 feet in height, and at its head
in Thetis cove is a sandy beach and a stream of water. At l] miles up the Imvbonr is
Sansum island, a small spot covered with trees, and the ruins of a number of huts.
The anchorage lies inside this, in Thetis cove, keeping Sansum island on the port hand ;
the passage being a cable wide with deep water. This cove is completely land-locked,
but squalls, frequently accompanied by rain, come over the hills with considerable
violence. At a good half mile from the mouth of the harbour, on the starboard side
going in, is the Thorn rock, with anly 3 feet on it at low water ; it lies about a cable from the
shore, and on the opposite side not quite at so great a distance from the land, but
a little farther out, ia another rock. These are dangerous to vessels working in or out ;
but there is nothing to fear if the wind be fair, and the ship kept niid-chanuel.

Douglas Harbour. — At one mile to the westward of Mitchell harb(.'iir, and on the same
side of Moore channel, is the entrance to Douglas harbour, apparently very similar to
the former, from which it is separated by Josling peninsula.

Directions. — The hind being very high on both sides of the channels leading into tlio
above harbours, influences the direction of the wind, which is either right in or out.
Winds with any westing blow in, and those with easting the contrary. A sailing vessel
leaving Moore channel with a S.E. wind should keep well over towards Hewlett bay, to
enable her to fetch clear of the Moresby islands, as the wind will be very unsteady
until well clear of the high land to wind\vard.

TA880 HaRBOVB. — Cape Henry lies 3 miles southward from the entrance to
Moore channel, and terminates in a steep slope with a hummock at the extremity ; 18
miles southward of this is the entrance to Tasso harbour, the intermediate coast being
high, and rising abruptly from the sea. The entrance is short and narrow, but the
harbour itself is extensive, with deep water in many places ; the anchorage in it is near
some small islands on the port hand going in ; it has only been visited by a few of the
Hudson Bay Go's, officers.

Th6 couat. — Between Tasso harbour and cape St. James are other openings, which,
according to Indian report, lead into good harbours, the southernmost of which is that
leading into Houston Stewart channel and Rose harbour. Inside Anthony island, and
close to Houston Stewart channel, is an opening, called by the natives Louscoone, and
reported to be a good harbour, not unlike Rose harbour. This coast is also apparently
very bold, excepting off Anthony island, and like tiie previous 18 miles. Tlie land near
capo St. James has fewer trees on it than that to the northward.

WiitilH. — S.E. winds are prevalent, and are almost invariably accompanied with
thick rain ; those from the opposite quarter genernlly bring line weather. The weather
is very uncertain, and cannot bo depended on for 2 1 hours at a time.

Tides, — The following brief account of the tides along thi^ north and north-east coasts
of the Queen Charlotte islands is given by a Hudsun Bay (company's ofHcer.

Tho course and rate of the tide streams are not regular, being greatly iuUucuced by

■ 'fs 'vn

l» ) /lil

884

TERRITORY OF ALASKA.

the winds. At full and change they run with great strength. Time of high water,
about l?.h. 30m.

The flood, coming from the westward round North island, sets along the Masset
sho'.e for Brown passage, spreading about 15 miles round Rose point, towards cape
Ibbetson, where it meet^ the flood from the southward, from Skidegate, Banks island,
and the Principe channel ; consequently between Rose point, cape Ball, cape Ibbetson,
and thence S.E. 4 or 5 leagues, the tides are very irregular.

The tides between cape Murrdy, P^ircy point, and Zayas island are the strongest and
most irregular, causing a heavy and confused sea, so much so, that in bad weather it
has the appearance of breakers.

oaograpbieai resitions. — The geographical positions of the principal points and
headlands of the islands as given in all charts at present existing, should be considered
as only approximate to the truth. There has not as yet been even a running survey
of the group. The following determinations are from observations made by an officer
in the Hudson Bay Co. service.

o * of

Cape St. James

Oumshewas island (north-east point)

Skidegate harbour

,, ,, Bar rock

Cape Ball

Rose spit point

„ ,, point of reef

North island (north point)

Devils ridge

Rose spit to Masset harbour S.W. ^ S. 20 miles.
„ to Cumshewas S.S.E. 70 miles.
„ to Skidegate S. by E. i E. 50 miles.

lat. Ei

long.

180

131

181

131

181

188

181

TERRITORY OF ALASKA.

Magnetic Vuriatiou in 1880 :—Sill(n Soutd, W E.

OBNERAL BEMABtJin. — Tlio wlioldoftho American coaBt, north of latitude 54° 40',
formerly' It uown as UusKiau Auioricu, uowbelougitiothe United States, and is deouuiiuatixi
the territory of Alaska.

Huttonj, do, — The colonization of this extensive territory was originally andertaken
by the RuisianAiuerican Company, which wati estabU*h«^d undor charter from the
Empnror J'liul in tho year 1799 ; it was granlud to thorn to oecupy and bring und#;r
the dominion of UuMnia. Tho RusHiuu company thuH furrnod iiHitnatcly came into
eoUision with the Hudson Bay Company, which had )ieun foublishcd in the north-
west torritoties of BriliHh North Amoriou ever itiuco the year 107U.

1 \mfu

It S rtM.i.' i'

turn

■MHMIIII

Kif

GENERAL REMARKS.

885

In 1825, however, the boundary between tlio Russian and English possessions was fixed
by treaty. The line commences in latitude u4° 40' N., between longitudes ISl"" and
183° W. ; it runs northward along the Portland canal as far as the parallel of 58° N. ;
than north-westward along the summits of the mountains, parallel with the coast, to
the meridian of 141° W., always piovided that this line shall not exceed the distance
of 30 miles from the coast.

In 1834 an expedition was fitted out at considerable expense by the Hudson Bay
Company, to endeavour to establish trading ports on the great river Stik'no ; this
procedure, however, was resented by the Russian-American Company. The Russians
established a blockhouse at the mouth of the river, and sent a corvette to prevent the
designs of the English Company being carried out, a!t]iough the latter claimed the
privilege of navigating the rivers flowing from the interior of the continent to the
Pacific, across the boundary-line established under the treaty of 1825. The Lrltlsh
Government demanded redress for this infraction of the treaty ; and, after negotiations
between the two governments and the two chartered companies, it was agreed, in 188'.),
that from the 1st of June, 1840, the Hudson Bay Company should enjoy for ten years
the exclusive use of the continent assigned to Russia in 1825, and extending from
lat. 54° 40' to cape Spencer, near long. 58°, in consideration of the annual payment
of 2000 otter skins to the Russian-American Company.

The charter of the Russian- American Company, granted in 1700, was renewed in
1839, when they had thirty-six hunting and fishing estahlishmcnts. Sitka, or New
Archangel, founded in 1805, was their chief post, and here all the business of the
company centred.

The extensive but comparatively useless region, known as the territory of Alaska,
was purchased from the Russian Government by the United States, for the sr.iu of
7,200,000 dollars, in coin, the treaty for the transfer being signed on May 28th, 18(J7.
The sum of 200,000 dollars was added to the amount Cor the purpose of extinguishing
the claims of the Russian-American (V>iiipany, whoso hcad-(iiiiirtors wore at Sitka, and
of an ice company established in liodiak, who had special privileges conceded to them.

The population of the territorj' tit the time it was ceded to the United States, was
estimated to be about 2000 whites, and G0,000 Creoles and Indians.

I'liysicnl Geotjiaiihij.- — The coast, of Alaska, commencing from the north shores of
T)ixon sound, swoops in a long regular curve to tlu* uortli westward tor 550 miles, to
the viciuity of i'riiico William sound, and thence it treads south-westerly for a distance
of 725 miles to the extremity of Alaska peninsula, whore the chain of islands, known
as the Aleutians, stretches towards the coast of Kamtchatka in a long curve, with tho
convexity to the southward.

Tho higliost latitude of the grcnit bend of the main ooast-line north of Situa is CO',"
in long. I45.i . iu Controller bay; >tnd the wosteru and southern pnjnt of Alaska
peninsula is m lat. 55" aud long. KiH , where it is sepaiatod by the impassable strait
of Jsanotsky from the extensive but ueai-ly snow-cUtd island of Uuiuuik, rendered con-
epicuouB by its volcanic peaks covered with perpctnul snow. /

Nortli of tho peninsula ol Alaska tho coast has a i;euoral diroction northward to tat.
00' iuthe Arctic sea, indented hy four large bays or sounds, rospoctivoly named Bristol^

)v.S|

886

TERRITORY OF ALASKA.

Kouskoqnitn, Norton, ancl Kotzebne ; and receiving among others the great river
Youkon, which has its sources in abont long. 180° W., in British America.

The cxtoiisivo shcot of water north of the Aleutians to Behring strait, in lat. 65 J',
and between the Anicricf-n and Asiatic continent's is known as Behring sea, and, so far
p,B Bounded, coDHirftH of very ext/;nsive submarine levels of remarkable evenness of surface
at a vary small dtptb. In it are several large islands, upon two of which, St. Paul
and St. Gporge, are located Russian factories.

Off tho south-eastern shore of the Alaska peninsula lies the large island of Kodiak,
which has numerous adjacent islands separated by narrow and navigable straits.
North of the Kodiak group, and forming part of the eastern shore of the Alaska
peninsula, is Cook's inlet, 159 miles long and 50 to 20 miles in width, penetrating the
territory to lat. 61°, long. 150°, and receiving two large rivers near its head.

The great extent of v^ter lying in the curve of the coast between Dixon sound and
the south part of the Kadiak group has been named the gulf of Alaska.

From Dixon sound, in lat. 54° 40', to the Chilkaht river, in lat. 59° 40', the main land
is fronted by a vnst archipelago of large islands, most of them having high mountains
throughout, and all covered with a dense growth of vegetation. These islands occupy
a space of about 75 miles east and west, and 265 miles N.N.W. and S.S.E.; they are
divided by numerous navigable passages, one of which, named Chatham strait, stretcher
in a direct line 195 miles nearly N.N.W. from cape Ommaney, in lat. 56° 10', to the
mouth of the Chilkaht, in lat. 59° 14', with an average width of 7 or 8 miles, and
great depth of water. This great strait has numerous anchorages and small bays,
and several largo passages connecting it with the other straits to the eastward, ancl
two important ones with the sea to the north of Bitka. Of the latter, one passes
through Peril strait and Salisbury sound to the gulf of Alaska, about 20 miles north
of Sitka sound, with a navigable branch to Sitka, and the second through Cross sound,
or Icy strait, to tho gulf of Alaska, about 75 miles north of Sitka sonnd. The north
shore of Cross sound is the southern part of the peninsula of the mainland lying
between Chatham strait and the gulf of Alaska, and the termination of the great range
of coast mountains that embraces mounts St. Elias, Fairweather, and Crillon. The
group of large islands above described, embracing a shore-line of nearly 7000 miles,
has been named tho Alexander archipelngo.

From Icy strait the const is very slightly indented by bays up to the extreme
northern part of the gulf of Alaska, in long. 144°. Hero the extensive inlet with its
islands and peninsulas, known as Prince William sound, stretches inland to the base
of the great mountains for 60 miles, with a width of nearly the same distance. About
100 miles westward of this sound is Cook's inlet ; the land lying between these two
sounds is known as tho Kcnai peninsula.

The mountains of the Alexander archipelago attain an elevation of 2000 to 8000
feet. They have no valleys for cultivation between them, bnt they are densely wooded
with firs and cedars, Ac. Westward of Icy s^^rait the coast mountain range rises to the
height of about 8000 to 0000 feet, covered in most part with perpetual snow ; on it are
some magnificent snow peaks, one of which reaches the great height of neaily 20,000
feet, and is frequently seen at a distance ol' 150 miles at sea. Mount Crillon, in lat.

UENERAL REMARKS.

887

68* 40', long. 137*, U 15,900 feet high; mount Fairweather, in lat. 58* 55', long.
187" 80', 15,500 feet; mount Vancouver, in lat. 60° 12', long. 189° 85', 18,100 foet;
mount Cook, in lat. 60° 12', long. 140°^ 16,000 feet; and mount St. Elias, in Int.
60' 20', long. 141°, is 19,500 feet in height. The latter rises from a confused mass
of broken mountains behind an elevated plateau, and is connected with mounts Cook
and Vancouver, lying to the eastward, by a range of mountains of great elevation.

The peninsula of Alaska appears to be formed by a continuation of mount SU
Elias range, broken or deflected at Prince William sound, and embraces some very
high and volcanic peaks. The south-east shores of the peninsula are generally bold
and rocky, and as far westward as abreast the island of Kodiak there is timber on the
low margin of the coast, but gradually becoming scarcer to the west of Kodiak, wbea
it ceases altogether.

Climate. — The North Pacific presents a peculiarly striking analogy to the North
Atlantic in the existence of a great warm current, similar to the Gulf Stream, which
sweeps along the eastern coast of Asia to the north-eastward, crosses the Pacific Ocean,
and washes the north-west coast_ of the continent of America. This warm current
brings to the shores of Alaska an enormous quantity of warmer water than is due to
the latitude, which has an appreciable efi'ect on the climate and temperature of this
part of the American continent. In consequence of this accession of warmth there ia
a ^reat development of animal and vegetable life. The sea swarms with fislj in great
variety and the land is for the most part densely and luxuriantly wooded with trees of
gigantic growth. The rivers and fiords: also possess au endless supply of salmon and
other fish. Upon these fish and mollusca, the sea-otter by land, and the whale in the
sea exist, and are at present the chief objects of profit to the natives and settlers.

According to the observations (1847 — 1864) carried on at the Sitka Maguotic and
Meteorological Observatory the mean temperature throughout the year at Sitka is
42°-9 Fahr.— m spring, 41°-3; summer, 54''-3 ; autumn, 44''-2 ; winter, 31"-9.
The average annual amount of rain, snow and hail, that fell during the period of thess
observations was about 83 inches, and the yearly average of days upon which rain,
snow or hail fell, or heavy fogs prevailed, was 245, or two days out of every throe.
This enormous rainfall is in consequence of the prevalence of S.W. winds, which ara
charged with a vast accumulation of moisture after passing over the warm ocean
current described above. The whole extent of country subject to these rains is covered
with a kind of moss, known as sphagnum from one to two feet in depth ; even on the
steepest hill-sides this carpet is found to exist and to be saturated with water.

The prevailing winds in winter are easterly, and if from the southward are accom-
panied with rain and snow ; but when from nortli-oast the weather is generally clear
and cold. The stormy weather commences in October ; storms and tempest;! aro
frequent in November and December, and from the vicinity of Sitka the aurora borealis
is frequently seen during clear cold nights. The wintor weather breaks up about the
end of March and vessels prepare for their first fur trading early in April, when the
weather is cold but comparatively dry.

Military Pottt. — Six military posts wore established in 1807 by tho United States

u 2

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888

TERRITORY OF ALASKA.

' ♦!

Governnient, vie :T-fort Kodiak, fort Kenai, Sitka, fort Koutznon, fort Wrangle and
fort Tongas.

Fort Tongas is situated on a small island, one of the Wales island group, im-
mediately north of Portland inlet, and but a few miles above the southern bonudarj' of
Alaska. The vegetation at Tongas is almost tropical, some of the trees cnt down in
clearing for the military post were 7 and 8 feet in diameter. There is plenty of good
.timber in the immediate vicinity — principally fir, hemlock, and cedar. Fish of ex-
cellent quality can be caught in qnantities right at the post ; brook-trout of large size
abound in the streams; venison, bears, ducks and geese can be purchased of the
Indians, at nominal prices ; the beach supplies clams and mussels.

Wrangle is pleasantly situated on Wrangle island, in the bight of a beautiful bay,
called Etpline harbour, a few miles south of the mouth of the Stikine river. The
scenery around this place is very fine. There is a large Indian village in the im-
mediate vicinity. The timber on the island is mainly spruce, hemlock, and cedar.
There is good grazing on the island ; corn, potatoes and other vegetables are grown.
The country has not yet been explored ; no doubt valuable mines will be discovered
when the proper explorations are made. Coal has been found in several places;
Captain Mitchell, of the Safjinaw, transported 60 tons from a mine near Sitka, to
Victoria. Wrangle, from its proximity to the Stikine river, through which a large
trade with th Indians of the interior can be carried on, its central position, and con-
tiguity to the best salmon fisheries, will undoubtedly become a place of importance.
A few gold miners still work the bars of the Stikine, but no large strikes are reported.
(1867).

Space will not permit us to give a detailed account of the coast, sounds and islands,
&c., of Alaska. We shall therefore conclude this chapter by simply giving a full
account of the principal harbour on the coast, i.e., Sitka or New Arkhangel.

SITKA BOUND. — The harbour of Sitka, in about lat. 57° 3', long. 135° 18', is a
very picturesque one, with plenty of water for the largest ships to pass in and out, but
a dangerous one, owing to the large number of islets and rocks, between which pasa
narrow channels, any of them with sufiicient water to float a ship, but hardly sea-room
enough to bo safe. The entvanco to the harbour is superb. Mount Edgecumbe towers
up nearly 8000 feet above the level of the sea; its immense crater, filled with snow,
marks the north-western boundary of the harbour, and can be seen at a great distance;
Branor island is made up of mountains piled on mountains, having peaked summits
and irregular outlines.

The town of Sitka, formerly Now Arkhangel, is situated on a point of land jutting
out into the bay, from the base of the mountains, probably containing about 1000 acres,
and from the character of the soil appears to have been made by the washings of the
ocean. On the point is a lake of fresh-water, in front of which, along the edge of the
bay, are about 150 log houses, scattered about promiscuously. There is but one
street, and that extends through the whole length of the town, and is continued for
about a mile to Indian river, a little mountain stream emptying into the bay at this
point. This is the only road on the island; beyond this, and in fact, on all sides of

SITKA SOUND.

889

and

im-
rj' of
m in
good
ex-
size
the

the island, for some distance before you reach its termination, the thicket is iBipue-
trable. This little river furnishes good fresh-water, cold as ice, and seems to get its
supply from the melting snows on the summit of the mountains. To this little river
the road leads, and was made by the Russians for the purpose of getting water, as the
lake water is hardly fit to drink. There is not a well or cistern on the island, a Urge
proportion of the water used being carried in small ciisks sluug on a pole, ou the
shoulders of two men or women.

The Indians have a market here ; they furnish any quantity of fish and game,
charging a fair price for it. The following are some of the articles obtainable, with
their prices, viz-. : — deer, from three to four dollars ; grouse, 2.'5 cents each ; ducks,
25 cents each; wild geese, 75 cents to $1 ; snipe, CO cents a dozen; clams, 25 cents
a basket; halibut, as much as you can carry for 75 cents; cod, 50 cents for a big fii>h ;
salmon, during the season, froia 10 to 25 cents each.

The following information respecting Sitka sound and harbour is by Assistant
George Davidson, U.S. Coast Survey, and is extracted from the Coast Pilot of Alaska,
Part 1, 1869 :*—

"Between point Woodhouse, Biorka island, and cape Edgecumbe, lying N. 40° W.,
18 miles distant, is the entrance to Sitka sound, having a depth of 00 fathoms outside
the middle of the entrance, and very bold water in every direction.

Biorka island is comparatively low and wooded, about 2 miles in extent north and
south, and the same east and west. It has a sunken rock one mile southward of its
south point, and several islets, but along its west and north faces the water is 80
fathoms deep close in-sbore. On the north face of Biorka, 1^ miles east of the north-
west point, is a small cove, opening to the northward, witii soundings of 11, 9, and
7 fathoms inside the heads. Off the entrance tothis cove are soundings in 25 fathoms,
sandy bottom. The Russian navigators assure us this would make a good pilot
station.

Two miles westward of the islet which lies off the north-west point of Biorka is an
isolated sunken rock, where a heavy sea breaks only once every 5 or G minutes. It
is said to have 10 feet of water on it, and, if so, must be very pointed.

The Russian navigators inform me that they have repeatedly watched the break
upon it, and that the rocky patch of nearly a mile in extent laid down ou the English
chart^f Sitka sound. No. 2887, does not exist.

All the adjacent islands are low and wooded, but the main-land is well marked by
very high mountains.

Capo Edgecumbe is notedly marked by the extinct volcano of mount Edgecumbe,
bearing N. 52° E. distant 4 miles from the extremity of the cape. Tlio shores aro
covered with timber to the edges of the bold high bluffs of rock and lava, fringed with
innumerable rocks. The capo presents the appearance of a wooded plateau extending
to the base of the mountain, interrupted only by two small hills between the cape and

* More recent information about this locality will be foiiitd on a Hubsequeiit i^agc. See report of
Lieut. F. M, Sjmonds, U.S. Navy, U.S.S. Jamestown, 1871)— tiO.

L-A^'

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890

TERRITORY OF ALASKA.

mountain. But the great feature and landmark is the mountain itself, which ig
peculiarly marked, and has no counterpart in this region. It rises 2855 feet aboTa
the sea, and the top, forming the rim of an ancient crater, appears nearly horizontal,
and has a diameter of 2000 feet.

Lisiansky says the basin of the crater is 40 fathoms deep.* The sides, from the
summit down, have a gentle and regular -.lination of about 25 degrees, are roarkevl
by deep furrows, destitute of trees or herbage, and present in sunlight a dull reddish
appearance. In winter it is covered with snow. It is situated upon Pitt or Kruzoff
island, of which the south and east sides form the north and west shores of Sitka
sound and the passages northward, while its north side forms the south shore of
Salisbury or Elokatcheff sound.

Otf cape Edgecumbe the mountains Crillon and Fairweather, distant 125 miles to
the N.W., are distinctly visible in clear weather.

From cape Edgecumbe the north shore of the entrance to the sound runs a general
and nearly straight course of E. i N. for 7 miles to Otmoloi point, or Point of Shoals,
off which, at the distance of a mile, lie Low island and rocks, with a passage
reported between the point and island. Nearly midway between these points, and
1^ miles off shore, lies the moderately high wooded island of St. Lazara or Cape
island, with 20 to 5 fathoms water between it and the shore.

The south shore, inside the entrance to Sitka sound, is broken by innumerable rocks
and low wooded islets, and indented by large bays. The whole shore is covered with
spruce, making it difficult to distinguish the islands. No sunken rocks are known to
exist nearer the entrance than Williams bank, 5^ miles N.N.E. fi'om the north-west
point of Biorka, and lying some distance off the low islands inside. The bank appears
to consist of four or five sunken rocks, upon some of which the sea invariably breaks.

Within the entrance the sound contracts its width to 6 miles between Point of
Shoals and Williams bank, with deep water to and inside that line. From Point of
Shoals to Bouranoff point, forming part of the south shores, the bearing is E. by S.,
and distant 7i miles ; and on this line the sound is contracted by Low island and
rocks, one mile from Point of Shoals ; by the Vitskari and adjacent rooks, 3 miles
distant; by the Knlitch rock and adjacent sunken rocks, 5 miles distant from the
same point. Deep channels exist between Low and Vitskari, Vitskari and Eulitch,
and Kulitch and the islets off Bouranoff point, with, however, dangerous rocks in the
latter. Between Vitskari and Otmoloi, Lisiansky gives soundings in 18, 17, 20, and
17 fathoms.

But the channel invariably used by the Russians is that between Vitskari and Kuli-
tch. On the English chart this channel is erroneously contracted by the laying down
of a sunken reef extending one mile east of Vitskari, nearly on the line towards Euli-
tch. In 1809 the Russian naval officers laid down 60 fathoms, two-thirds of a mile
from Vitskari, on this bearing. The captains of the Russian-American Company state
they have passed Vitskari along its south-east face within half a cable when steering

* The height of mount Edgecumbe given on the Admiralty chart is 2800 ; Belcher estimated it
at 8 ISO feet; and LisiaDBky, at 8000 feet.

sauia

SITKA SOUND.

391

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itka

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a direot course to Mokhnatoi, a course N. 62° E., trut. We have made it close aboard
when comiug in at evening, with very thick, heavy weather from tha S.E., and saw uo
breakers to indicate such a reef ; in fact, were misled by not finding tiie broakera
according to the chart.

Yitskari islet appeared, from the distance of a mile or two, to be about 40 yards
long and 10 feet above high water, with a rough irregular surface ; in smooth weather
it has been landed upon.>t= From the north-west point of Biorka it bears N. G" E.,
distant 7 miles. From the rock off Biorka it bears N. 21° E., distant 7^ miles.

Eulitch rock, situated about 2 miles E.N.E. of Yitskari island, is about 20 feet
high, and less in extent than Yitskari. There are snuken rocks to the northward and
S.S.\Y. of it, about half a mile distant, and one towards Yitskari, about a quarter of a
mile off, with deep water and dangerous sunken rocka between the Kulitch and the
islets off point Bouranoff.

For a distance of 4 miles inside of Yitskari rock we find clear deep water, up to the
range of the wooded islands and rocks lying for 2 miles outside of Sitka harbour.

Through this barrier of islands there are three channels to the anchorages oast and
west of the town. These passages are known as the Eastern, Middle, and Western,
the former being the longest, and the middle one the shortest, to either anchorage.

The approaches to these passages are free of all known dangers, except towards tho
Eastern.f The Zenobia rock has been imperfectly laid down ; it has only 1 5 feet
upon it at low water. A quarter of a mile eastward of it is the Kadiu rock with 12 feet
water. It is a-sharp pointed rock, of very limited extent, and has 10 to 17 fiathoma
close to it.

In approaching the islands lying off Sitka in thick weather, the oflicers of the com-
pany endeavoured to find the island of Mokhnatoi |, which is 20 to SO feet high, rocky,
and covered with a thick growth of spruce, the dark foliage of which, with the black
rocks beneath, brought out in relief by the surf breaking along its frout and ou the
outlying rock, makes it discernible through the fog when other islands are invisible.
This islet lies between the Middle and Western channels, 5 miles N.E. by E. ^ E.
from Yitskari, and a vessel making it can take either, and safely run for the anchorage.
When the fog is lifting, from the coming in of a westerly wind, this island appears
first. Abreast Mokhnatoi the Western channel is about three-quarters of a mile wida,
with a large reef, bare at low water, forming the western side; and the Middle channel
is contracted by sunken and exposed rocks to a much narrower width.

The harbour of Sitka is very contracted. In the western anchorage numerous
mooring buoys have been laid down near the town, although this part of the harbour
is narrow and has three sunken rocks in it. The eastern harbour receives the greater
sweep of the south-easters, and a heavy swell is said to be brought in from tho sound,
80 that the company's vessels prefer to anchor in the western, as they can discharge

* A lighthoase has been proposed on Yitskari islet.

t Since these instruotimis were written several sunken dangers have been discovered in these
passages, see report of Lieut. F. M. Sjmouds, U.S. Navy, of U.S.8 Jamestown, 1879-80, givtn on
pages .H9B-397.

I There is now a beacon on Mokhnatoi island, described on page 391,

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'9,'-

TERRMORY OF ALASKA.

more readily, and especially because during the winter the officers and crews are takea
from the ships, which are left with oulj one keeper. The British men-of-war use the
eastern harbour.

In the great gale of October 28th, 1867 — the severest at this place for very many'
years — three or four vessels broke adrift from their moorings and several were driven
ashore.

As the eastern harbour is larger than the western, free of sunken rocks, and easier
of access, the adoption of it as the better anchorage for large vessels is confidently
recommended.

The geographical position of the Coast Survey astronomical station, between the
new United States barracks and the church, is lat. 57' 2' 52", long. 185° 17' 45".

Lii/ht. — From the cupola of the governor's house a light is shown to vessels entering
the sound at uight, to enable them to reach an anchorage. It is 110 feet above the
sea, and is exhibited when two guns are fired. It shows over all the islands south-
west of the anchorages. (1867).

Tides. — From the Coast Survey tidal observations of two months, from August 21st
to October 21st, the mean rise and fall of the tide is 7*8 feet, and at the full and
change of the moon ll'O feet. The extreme I'ange observed during the above period
was 13 feet, and the Jonst range 2-1 feet.

Sitka was the principal establishment of the Russian-American Company, and com-
prises about 120 good block-houses, storehouses, barracks, workshops, saw-mil's,
churches, hospital, and the governor's headquarters. On January Ist, 1867, it con-
tained 9G8 inhabitants, uf which 81<J were Russians, and the remainder oreoles or
hulf-brecds and Aleutians. Outside the stockade are 40 largo Indian houses, facing
the western harbour, and occupied by not less than 1000 Koloshes during the winter.
The site of the town is cramped, and it is a mere question of time and expansion when
these Indian houses Mill be removed. For years the Russians have had about u dozen
guns directed along the face of the Koloshian village.

It would be useless to attempt to describe the labyriulh of channels and islets passing
in every direction, like teutacula, from the sound, yet a few items may not be without
interest.

About 9 miles S. 5 E. from Sitka (but 18 miles by tho nana! courses) are the rapids,
connecting the waters of Deep luko with tho S.E. part of Oserski bay. At these
rapids, having a fall • of U feet, a scries of fish woirs have been const, acted by thft
Russian Company in a very substuntial manner, from shore to shore, and great quan-
tities of salmon are cuught and cured. In 1867, besides furnishing Sitka, the prodnoft
was 520 barrels, and there is ample opportunity to increase the oatch fivefold.

A good passage exists between tlio north ])urt oc tho sound and the eastern end of
BuliNbury sound, which enters from tlit gull' of Alaska, in 58° 20', and continues
through Peril strait to Challnun strait. The Coast Survey has made several pro-
limlnary examinations through these waters, and changed materially their shapes ou
the English chart ; but they should not bo run without a pilot of good local knowledge.

Tho Neva Passage, leading from the north entrance of Olga strait to Peril strait, is
quite narrow, and has numerous sunken rocks along its shores. Tbe Coast Surrey

SITKA SOUND.

S98I

made a preliminary examiuation of it which indicated plenty of water, bnt made tlie
passage narrower than laid down on the charts. With a thorough survey of this strait
and of Salisbury sound, with its bold approaches, another entrance is afforded to Sitka
sound to vessels driven north of cape Edgecunibe by heavy south-easters or by the
currents in light airs.

A vessel once inside Sitka sound and unable to reach the anchorage, on account of
heavy S.E. weather, will find two small bays and anchorage about 10 miles N.N.E. of
Low point, and north of Yitskari.

Sitka sound was fairly represented by Vancouver, who named it Norfolk sound in
1794, but he did not enter it. La Perouse had very vaguely indicated the existence
of a bay here, but its head was obscured by a fog. He applied no name to it. In
1775 Quadra named it the Bay of Terrors, and named the north point Cape Enganno.
Tebenkoff describes its appearance as terrible in heavy south-east weather ; but it is
neither better nor worse than any other large open sound."

The following information relating to Sitka harbour and its approaches has been
compiled from the report of Lieutenant F. M. Symonds, U.S. Navy, navigating officer,
V.S.S. Jamestown, Commander L. A. Beardslee, U.S. Navy, commanding, who has
just completed a survey of the locality (1880) : —

Btorka Island, on the west side of the entrance to Sitka sound, is about 5 miles in
length, and its greatest width, north and south, about 2^ miles ; it is densely covered
with trees and talL grass, with some underbrush, but not as rank as that found at
localities farther removed from the sea. There is a lake at the eastern end, the
supposed outlet of which furnishes a place where vessels may easily obtain water by
boats.

The western shore of fiiorka island is bluff and may safely be approached to within
a distance of 260 yards. The channel between it aud a rocky patch to the westward
is clear.

Caution. — The passage to the eastward of Biorka island is foul, being studded with
sunken rocks, aud is therefore not recommended.

On the north side of Biorka island, near its east side, is good anchorage in a bay
lately surveyed by Lieutenant F. M. Symonds and Master G. C. Hunns, U.S.N. ,
which has been named Symonds bay.

■ymenda Bay. — Situated on the west side of the entrance to this bay is a nearly
circular rook, CO yards in diameter, which rises about -16 feet above high water mark.
It is entirely barren, and is an excellent mark for that sido of tho entrance; it is known
as Entrance island.

Tho eastern entrance point of Symonds bay is covered with trees on its western
side; off its northern extremity is a small iMlnud, named Huuus. At night it is ro<
commended to give Hunus island n berth uf 200 yards, leuviug it to port. By day it
is only necessary to avoid tho kelp patciius. Tho first kelp patch on entering is on
tho western side of the buy and marks a rock with but two feet water over it at lovir
tide. This rock is tho only danger in tho bay.

At tho head of tho bay is a gradually sloping white beach which can bo seen a con*
tidorablo distaopo at uight.

904

TERRITORY OF ALASKA.

Dirgetiona. — With the exception of the rocky patch to the westward of Biorka islanti
the approaches to Symonds bay are free from dangers. Entrance island on the west
side, and Hanas island on the east side, mark distinctly the harbour. Approaching
the entrance, avoid the kelp patch to the northward of Hanos island, and give the
island a berth of 200 yards to the westward, thon head for the sand-beach, the centre
of which will bear about S.S.E.

Anchor in 7 fathoms, avoiding the kelp on either shore of the harbour. Holding
ground is good and anchorage sheltered against all winds except those between
W.N.W. northward to N. by E. ; N.N.W. winds blow directly into the bay. Fresh
water and wood are in abundance.

Rocky cove, on the south side of Biorka island, is dosed by dangerous sonken rocka
and small rocky islands ; its shores are covered with great quantities of drift-wood.

To a vessel coming up Sitka sound the islands about Sitka appear as one eonfnsecl
mass, but they may be approached boldly until the beacon erected by the Jamt$tovm
on the Beacon group is made oat, after which a vessel's position may be plotted
accurately aru the desired channel chosen without difficulty.

witskart XsUad. — The Jamettown passed within half a mile eastward of this island,
and found uo reef there, nor any bottom at 15 fathoms. Three rocks or patches of
rocks, lying apparently about a quarter of a mile apart, were observed to the N.W. of
the island.

The beacon on Yitskari island is a conical stone building, 10 feet high, standing
near the centre of the island. On the top of the beacon is a staff, 6 teet long,
on the summit of which is a large stone, which is elevated 16 feet above the rock and
41 feet above high water. In clear weather it should be visible abont 11 miles.

Knuteb Book. — This rook bears from Yitskari island E.N.E. \ E., but is difficult
to distinguish, as when approaching the latter island on a N.E. by N. course it u shufc
by the land of Bouranoff (Elouronov) point.*

The western breaker of Kulitch rock bears S. 7° W. from Mokhaatoi (Wooded)
island beacon.

xanobu Seek. — This rook has only 15 feet water over it, and not 18 feet as
previously reported, and as shown on some charts.

Xekliaatel lelaad. — The beacon on Mokhnatoi (Wooded) island has the form of •
triangular pyramid ; it is situated on the sammit of the island. The beacon is 19^
feet high ; on its sammit is a staff, 8| feet long, capped by a large stone, the whole
rising 22^ feet above the island and abont 72^ feet above high water. In dear
weather it should be visible about 15 miles.

From Mokhnatoi beacon the beacon on Yitskari island bears S. 86 i" W.; mount
Edgecumbe S. 04i° W. ; and Kulitoh rock S. 2° W.

A dangerous sunken rook, wiln only feet water over it, on which the sea breaks
during bad weather, lies S.S.W. % W. 4(S6 yards from the east point of Mokhnatoi
(Wooded) island.

' 4> From thii it would appear tint lioth Vilikari island and Knlitob ruok are plaacl en th« prtMnt
•harta loo far north with refereno* to BoarunoT point {V.B, IIydrogr(fphit Offitt).

SITKA SOUND.

S95

, a«klielm Islwkft. — A beacon is alao erected on Eckholm island (Beacon group),
which is similar in size and construction to the one on Mokhnatoi (Wooded) island.

rritotaard Bheala. — A reported dangerous shoal shown on all charts of the locality,
covered by 8 feet and bearing North (easterly) from Passage (Ooloi) island does not
exist in, or near, the reported position, but is nndoubtedly an erroneous position of
the western of the Piitchard shoals.

autebau and Boae Koeks. — These rocks are incorrectly placed on present charts.
They lie near the fairway and should be left to starboard in entering. The centre of
Turning (Povorotni) island, bearing N. by E., clears both, and leads through mid-
channel between the western of Mitchell shoals and a S-fathom spit extending E.N.E.
about 809 yards from Volga island.

The shoal lying nearly west from Passage islands is of greater extent than heretofore
supposed, and narrows the channel between Passage island and Surf rocks (Bolivnoi
islands) to about 250 yards, which renders its use uuadvisable, even in fine weather.

kmb* xeok. — This danger, situated dangerously near the track of vessels using
Middle channel, is about 10 yards in diameter ; the least depth found upon it was
16 feet at low water, with 4 fathoms close to in all directions, and 7 fathoms within a
boat's length from it.

From Keene rock, the west extreme of Nepovorohnoi rock (Rockly island) bears
N. 29° W. ; the south extreme of Volga island N. 88° E.; the western extremity of
Quitoway (Whale) island S. 71° E., and the south ci^treme of Mokhnatoi (Wooded)
island S. 68° W.

The centre of Surf rocks (Bolivnoi islands) bearing S.W. i S. leads one cable south-
east of the rock.

Another rock, with only 14 feet water upon it, lies about 76 yards S.E. by S. from
Keene rock.

Rock, — A dangerous rock lies N.N.W., about 800 yards from the northern extremity
of Signal-light island (on the east side of the Western channel), and from the rock a
shoal with 9 to 18 feet water upon it extends N.W. about 180 yards.

vrntua* Rarbonr. — This harbour, in which the holding ground is good, and ex-
cellent shelter found against north-easterly gales, is situated on the south side of Japan
island, or between the south shore of that island and the islands to the southward of
it, viz. : Survey island and Lodge group.

junastown aronp. — This name is given to the group of islands (heretofore un-
named,) the N.W. extremity of which lies H.W. by W. J W., about 870 yards from
the north-west point of Thompson (Qalankin or Sandy) island, and extends thence
in an E. i S. direction for a distance of about 840 yards.

juacatown Bay is situated on the south side of Jamestown group. Fresh water
may be obtained there, to facilitate which a small jetty has been built by the crew of
the Jamestown,

moekwaii Xsiaad. — This island, the centre of which lies about N. i W. 610 yards
from the centre of Wooded island, is about 226 yards long on a line running N.W.
and 8.E. through the centre of the island. It is wedge-shaped (when looking down
upon it or from a bird'a-eye view), the south-east extremity forming the point and itt

996

TERRITORY OF ALASKA.

north-west side the base, which latter trends about N. by E. and S. by W. for ft
distance of 480 feet.

Bvarmy aronp. — This is a name giren to an important gronp of islands lying aboni
a quarter of a mile N.E. by N. from Signal-light island, and on the right of :h&
entrance to Whiting harbour.

Several other islands of less importance have been named by the Jamestown sur-
veying party, all of which will appear on the new charts when completed.

BliTMUoaa. — Entering Sitka harbour in a sailing vessel with the wind from the
north-westward, it is advisable to give the mount Edgecnmbe shore a vnde berth, as
under the influence of that high land the wind is apt to fail and fall ealm when th&
vessel is in the vicinity of Yitslsari.

Biorka island should be given a berth of at least 2^ miles. To clear th'^ sunkeD
rocks to the westward of this island, keep the beacon on Yitskari island bearing east-
ward of N. i E., or, iu other words, do not bring the beacon to bear to the northward
of N. i E.

In entering the harbour leave the beacon on Yitskari to port half a mile, then steer
for Mokhnatol beacon, leaving it on the starboard hand in passing int» the Western
channel.

Eastern Channel. — After passing Yitskari island steer N.E. J N., until the beacon
on Eckholm island (Beacon group) bears E.N.E., after which Eastern channel may be
entered with safety, care being taken to avoi'l the Zenobia and Eadin rocks, the posi-
tions of which are reported to be doubtfully laid down on existing charts. Yesaeld ar&
recommended to keep well on the south side of the passage, to clear Simpson's shoal
and Tzaritsa rock. <

Middle channel. — This channel is fall of dangers, and the present charts are neither
snfficiently accurate nor complete to indicate the route to follow in order to avoid them.
It is therefore not recommended to strangers, but in case it is becessary to enter by
this channel, the dangers in it will best be avoided by passing between Passage (Goloi)
and Beardslee (Kayaktch) islands, instead of between Passage island and Surf rocks
(Goloi and Bolivnoi islands,) or between Surf rocks and Wooded island (Bolivnoi and
Mokhnatoi islands,) as indicated on the Admiralty charts.

Western channel. — In navigating this channel care should be taken to avoid th&
shoal lying S.8.W. § W., 4(j5 yards from the east point (S.E. extremity) of Wodded
island, which latter is now distinguished by a triangular pyramidal, wooden beacon ;
and also the shoal lying N.N.W., 800 yards fi'om the north extreme of Signal-light
island (see pages 894, 805).

Anchoras*. — With regard to tho anchorage at Sitka, Commander Beardslee re-
marks, that, ordinary gales blowing from S.E. and S.W. outside are deflected to N.E.
and South, respectively, before reaching the inner anchorage. Yery heavy S.E. gales
however, are not deflected, but blow humo with a force greater than is felt ftom any
other direction.

Occasionally a heavy N.E. gale sends through the wlleys, which traverse the island
from Silver bay, heavy squalls from K.N.E.

For these reasons it is necessary to moor very securely, if it is contemplated to
remain during the winter or for any length of time.

SITKA SOUND.

807

Mooriftffs. — The Jamsitown after several trials vas eventaally moored in the western
harbonr with her head about E. by S., abreast the Indian village to the westward of
Sitka town, with the eastern extremity of Harbour island bearing S.E. i S. and the
east point of Japan island S.S.W. i W.

Commander Beardslee recommends the above anchorage to vessels visiting the
harbour with the intention of remaining for a length of time, and suggests, as a necessary
provision against accidents, that vessels be supplied with extra bowers, stream anchors
and cables, because if any of these are lost they cannot be replaced in Sitka.

The hull of a vessel anchored in this position is well sheltered from the heavy
squalls' which rush through the gulch to the northward ; inasmuch as they generally
pass over the ship and strike the water some distance outside of her, the spars only
catching the force of the squall, and for this reason it is well to send down all the
qpper spars when moored for sometime.

nam. — The corrected establishment of the port of Sitka is 12b. 80m. Mean rise
and fJall of tides 8| feet ; extreme range of spring tides (same day) 10^ feet.

CHANGES IN NAMES OF PBINCIPAL ISLANDS IN SITKA SOUND.

New Nahes.

Beacon group ....
Belknap island..,.

Liar rock

Thompson island .
Beardslee island .
Survey island ....

Long island

Rmsian island ....

Whalebone island ,
Luce island .......

Ship island* \
White island*]""
Johnson island* ,
Hawleg island*
Fasset island* ....

Entrance island .
Hormi/ island ....

Oull island

Turning island...

Ball island

Harbor island ...
Japan island ...

Names on U.S. Coast
Survey Chabtb.

Ekgalit-tch

Ekgalit-tch (Southern island)

False rock

Sandy island

Kayaktoh island

Sasedni island

Long island

Bamdorotchnoi

Whalebone island

Emheleni

Error island

Berry island
Boidarka . .

The Twins ,.

Rogova island....
Kukh-kun island.
Turning island .

Aleutski

Harbor

Japanese island .

Names on British
Admiralty Charts.

Eckholm islands

Eckholm (Southern island)

Liar rock

Galankin island

Kayaik island

Dolgay islandi

Bamdo-roshni

Quitoway island..
Emgayten island

Oshipki

Kuch-kan island..

Povorotni

Aloyoutski

Gavanski island . .
Yaponskoi island

* Thane flvo islands wore formerly known, ooUectivelf, as a group, under the name of Boidarka
ISLANDS by the U.S. CoaHt Survey, tud Kutobuma islands by British Admiralty.

ISLANDS AND ROCKS OFF THE COASTS OP CENTRAL AMERICA

AND :alifornia.

Magnetic Variation in 1880 : — At Cocoa Island 8° E. ; Malpelo Island 7i* E. ;

Clipperton Rock T E. ; Revillagiyedo Islands 9° E. ; Ouadaloupe 12^* E.

There is little, if any, annual change.

oooos MLAH9. — This island is about 4 miles in extent, and its northern part,
Chatham bay, lies in lat. 6° 82' 57", long. 86° 58' 22", according to the determination
of Sir Edward Belcher in 18S8. It is of considerable height, particularly the western
part, and vhen viev^ jd from a distance of 18 or 20 miles, on a bearing of N. 78° E. to
N. 81° E., its south-west extremity appears to rise abruptly from the sea, in steej)
rugged cliffs, to a considerable height, and then in a more moderate ascent to its most
elevated part, which is a hill of no great size, whence it descends more uniformly to
its northern extremity, which appears like a detached islet. When viewed from the
northward, opposite the bays, the shores appear to be composed of broken perpen-
dicular rocky precipices, beyond which the surface rises nnevenly to the summit of the
island, the whole covered with a thicket of small trees near the shore, — but on the
more elevated land in the interior, with large spreading trees. This island can be
seen more than 20 leagues off ; but of its interior little is known, except that it is
rooky and monntvnoui, and probably contains a large lake or sheet of v^ater, such
having been seen by some of the party under Sir E. Belcher. Its shores have only
partially been examined, and principally at the northern part of the island, where there
are two bays containing moderately good anchorage. Off the coasts are several
detached islets and rooks, which extend some distance, and particularly from the S.W.
part of the island, where they run off fully 2 miles, and would be dangerous, if it were
not that they are sufficiently high to be seen and avoided. The lower parts of these
detached islets consist of a b«lt of white barren rock to the water's edge, and their
tops are generally covered with trees. The coasts of the island are generally steep
perpendicular cliffs, against which the sea brecks with so much violence as to preclude
an attempt to land in any part except iu the bays on its northern side. In many parts
of these cliffs are falls of excellent water, a supply of which, it is said, can easily be
procured, as wdll as cocoa nuts, and plenty of wood for fuel.*

Captain Oolnett, who visited the island in 1798, says : — "The western side of the
island is the highest, and presents itself in the form of a round hill. The eastern side
appears tc be much broken, the land sloping in most parts abruptly to the sea, but in

* This ia Kooording to VanooaTer ; bat it haa aiuoa baan atetad that all tka treea hava baen ant
down.

cocoa ISLAND.

399

etben presenting bold *nd pei^ndioalar oliffa. The island doe* not appear to possess
• spot where trees can grow that is not ooTered with them or some kind of bnshy plant,
which, when blended with the barrenness of intervening rocks, prodnces a picturesque
effect; while the streams pooring down from their Tarions fountains to the sea greatly
heighten the beauty of the scene. It is Tahiti on a small scale, but without the
•drantage of its climate, or the hospitality of its inhabitants."

Yanconver appears not to have had so favourable an impression of the island, as
Captain Colnett. "This island cannot be considered as having a pleasant appearance
in any one point of view, for although its inland surface is much diversified by hills
and valleys, yet the only low land of any extent that we were certain it possesses is in
the bottoms of the two bays, each of which forms the extremity of one of these valleys,
bounded by craggy precipices, from the foot of which extends a narrow strip of low flat
land that terminates in a beach at the water side, resembling more the dreary prospect
exhibited at the heads of the several branches of the sea we had so recently explored
on the coast of North-West America, than anything else I could compare them to.

Every other part of the shore seemed to be composed of steep broken precipices of
rock, of which substance the interior of the island was apparently composed, as the
naked cliffs were frequently seen protruding their barren sides through the thicket,
which otherwise covered the surface of the island. This thicket, so far as we were
able to ascertain, was chiefly composed of a great variety of trees of a moderate size,
with an impenetrable underwood of the vine or supplejack kind, which opposed any
excursion into the country ; some attempts were, I believe, made to penetrate there by
the water course, but this, from rocky precipices and other obstructions, was found to
be equally impracticable; our knowledge of its productions must consequently be con-
fined to our observations on the small margin between the woods and the sea shore,
the only part that was accessible to us."

The primary advantage of Cocos island is the abundant supply of water which it
affords. This abounds in every part, and is to be easily procured at the stations to
which vessels can sesort. From its purity and limpid appearance, and from its being
destitute of any colour or unpleasant taste, either from dead leaves or other decayed
matter, Vancouver was led to infer, although heavy rains had iallen during his stay in
January, 1795, that the larger streams of water have a more remote and permanent
source than accidental showers. The soil in the immediate vicinity of the streams
falling into the bays is of a poor, loose, sandy nature ; but at a little distance behind
the beach, and in the fissures of the rooks, there is a rich black mould, apparently of
great fertility, and this is probably the case in other parts of the island. All th«
vegetable productions of the island grow luxuriantly. On the rocky cliffs uear the sea,
where the uneven surface will permit anything to grow, there is a coarse kind of grass
which affords an excellent retreat for the sea-fowl, and also a particular kind of tree,
something like the cloth plant of the South Sea islands, but much larger. Some of
these trees grow to the height of 80 feet, and have a brightish coloured bark, free from
branches to the top, where the leaves fall over, giving the trees the appearance of
umbrellas. Besides these trees there are others in the interior, occasionally of a con-
liderabU siie.

400

COCOS ISLAND.

Chatham Bay. — The north-easternmost anchorage of tho island is named ChnthaiU
bay, from the armed tender accompanying Vancouver. It is not very large, and off itd
east and west points are two islets, the western and larger named Nuez, and the
eastern Conic ; these afford protection from the sea, especially the western islet. The
width of the hay from point to point of the islets is about a mile, in a direction of
S. 52° E., and N. 62° W. ; and from this line of direction its extent to the bottom of
the bay is also about a mile. The soundings are regnlar, of from 12 to 60 fathoms,
and vessela may ride very snugly within less than half a mile of the beach, in about
20 fathoms water, but in a less depth the bottom does not appear to be so free from
rocks. Here Vancouver anchored, in January 1794, in 88 fathoms, on a sandy and
gravelly bottom, apparently good holding ground and free from rocks. The east point
of the bay, which is a small conical islet lying close to the north-east extremity of the
island, bore S. 51" E., half a mile; the west point of the bay S. 75° W. ; a steep
rocky islet lying off it, from S. 87° W. to N. 66° W. ; and the watering place at the
mouth of a very fine stream, emptying itself over a sandy beach S. 13° W., about
three-quarters of a mile. Within this the Chatham also anchored, in 26 fathoms,
similar bottom.

Sir Edward Belcher says, that in Chatham bay a vessel may anchor in 6 fathoms,
within a quarter of a mile of the beach, but the best anchorage is in 12 fathoms.
Theire a constant draught will be experienced between the openings of the islets, and a
vessel can generally ei\joy the refreshing sea-breezes, and fetch out at once, clear of
the dangers, which are but few.

From the depth of 20 fathoms, the soundings outside of Chatham bay soon deepen
to 40 and 60 fathoms, the latter at only 1^ miles from the shore. Both this and
Wafer ba^^ .afford good protection from the winds prevailing during the early months of
the year; and from the abundance of the vegetation growing close to high water mark,
it would seem that neither of them are subject to violent storms, or heavy seas.

Water Bay. — At about a mile westward of Chatham bay is Wafer bay, which is
more extensive and exposed than it, and its soundings are neither so regular, nor is
the bottom so good. Into this bay a large stream of fresh water flows, and the sea
breaks heavily. Captain Colnett appears to have preferred this bay to Chatham bay ;
be says : — "It may bo easily known by a small rugged barren rock, about the size of
a large boat, bearing West of the body of the bay about 6 or 6 miles. It lies East
and West, and its greatest depth is not 2 miles, nor is it one in breadth ; but I would
not venture into it in a vessel of more than 200 tons. Its anchorage is in from 7 to
60 fathoms, and is nearly sheltered from all winds. This bay is also preferable to
that at the north point, because the shore of the first is steep ; while that of the latter
consists of a beautifal valley and sandy beach, whore cocoa trees appear in greater
numbers than I have seen in any other place. There is also a rivulet of water 18 or
20 feet in breadth, which is supplied from a basin a mile inland, in which our crew,
to avoid the sharks, went and bathed. Althongh this bay is so small, it is very con-
venient, and as secure as the anchoring places generally are which are not entirely
sheltered. Its principal inconvenience arises from the constant rains, as out of the
four days we were beating off it, it rained during three of them, and sometimes with

MALPELO JSLAND AND CLIPPERTON ROCK.

401

heavy storms of lightning and thnndor. Tlioso on shore exporioncod an equal amount
of wet weather ; and so thick was the rain, tha», for eight hours together, we were not
ahle to see twice the length of the ship ; but this may not be the case at all seasons."

Of Wafer bay it may be said that one of its principal inconveniences is the heavy
rollers, particularly at low water, at which time the flat extends out a considerable
distance. It is also more subject to calms than Chatham bay, and consequently not so
easy of ingress and egress ; and being exposed to westerly, winds, watering at all times
is difficult, and at low tide quite impracticable.

The climate at Cocos was considered by Vancouver to be temperate and salubrious.
The thermometer, in January 1795, was usually between 78° and 80°, yet the heat
was not so oppressive as was experienced farther to the northward, and no inconvenience
was experienced from the heavy rains.

The rise and fall of the tides by the shore are very considerable and regular, twice
in the 2i hours, without any apparent stream, and are ..ot influenced by currents.
The night tides appear to be the highest, and probably rise 10 feet perpendicularly ;
bat at the time of the observations, the surf was too high to permit a very correct
measurement. The time of high water is about 2h. 10m. after the moon passes the
meridian.

Cocos island appears to be well provided with sea-fowls : pigs, also, were left there
by Captain Colnett, which appear to have increased aud multiplied considerably. Fish
are aba idant, bat difficult to catch ; eels are large aud numerous, as also are the
turtles, but they appear shy of coming to the laud. It is said that there are a large
number of rats of the white and brown kinds on the island, also land crabs of a pro-
digious size, and that goats are in the interior, but keep to the heights.

BKAUPBZiO xslahd. — The actual geographical position of this island has not been
ascertained, but approximately it is lat. 4° 0', and long. 81° 32'. It is a high, barren,
and perpendicular rock, visible about 20 leagues. A small quantity of green moss,
and a few dwarf bashes grow in its cracks or gullies, and are the only signs of vegetation
it possesses. It is surrounded with islets, and the whole may extend about 9 or 10
miles in a north and south direction. The centre of the island bears a resemblance
from several points of view to the crown of a head ; aud its being barren accounts
naturally enough for the name Malpelo, which the Spaniards have bestowed on it,
which signifies balil head.

In the vicinity of this island the currents are strong, and have much the appearance
of breakers ; the set appears probably to be to the N.E. by E., r.t the rate of 2^ miles
an hour.

OUPFBKTON BOOK. — This rock is in lat. 10° 17', long. 109° 10' ; it is sufficiently
lofty to be seen from a distance of 12 or 15 miles. When first in sight it appears not
unlike a sail, but on a nearer approach it presents the appearance of an immense casUe.
The colour is very dark, in fact nearly black. This most dangerous rock and shoal is
but little known, and thought by many not to exist. Its vicinity is generally indicated
by the presence of numerous sea-birds — the white gaunot, ^Yide-awake, and booby,
which are often found as much as 50 or 60 miles from the rock.

The above position of Clipperton rock is from the determination of Sir Edward

D D

mmm

402

CLIPPERTON ROCK.

Belcher, bat it has recently been stated that its more correct position is lat. 10° 18' 24",
long. 109° 7' 80". The island is between 7 and 8 miles long, and is almost an
even height from one end to the other, being only A or 8 feet above the sea-level.
The rock in its highest point is aboat 150 or 170 feet ; and tho width of the island is
about 1700 or 1800 yards. The island is composed of the whitest sand, and the only
appearance of vegetation is one eentinaons fine brown line, supposed to be of grass or
rashes. The rook is conical, unequal, and jagged, and at the northern end has a
circular hole right through, about fifty feet from the top. The sea breaks over the
whole extent of the island to windward, and at the north-east and south-west ends, at
different distances from the sand-bank. It has been observed that, " as the calms are
sadden in these latitudes, and the windo variable (Clipperton being on the edge of the
south-east trade- wind), if vessels are anxious to sight, the rock, they should pass to the
eastward of it, as the western side is evidently tbo windward side ; if it becomes calm
when they are in the neighbourhood, there is less danger when ihey are to leeward,
and the swell will throw them off. Clipperton is the most naked solitary danger that
imagination can picture. The sand bank seems ill able to support the weight of the
huge rock, and the rock itself appears to be sinking from its treacherous foondation.
The sight of this tremendous and distressing danger, and the reflection it calls up of the
awful calamities it has been the cause of, reminds one of the sublime truth of M. de
Lamartine's remark, when he was surveying some of the ruins of the hill of Baalbec,
that ' Silence is the only language of man, when what he feels outstrips the ordinary
measure of his impressions.' Ther«>> is au association with the ruins in the midst of a
desert, and this solitary rock standing in the midst of the pathless ocean."

In May, 1889, Clipperton rook was visited by Sir Edward Belcher, and after
mentioning that for a distance of about 15 miles, it presented the appearance of a
brig close hauled, owing to the sun's rays playing on its nearest face, he proceeds to
say : — " The name, Clipperton rock, certainly misled us, and had we made the point
at night, with a fair wind, would, almost inevitably, have severely damaged or destroyed
both vessels. I certainly should have steered to pass it to the northward ; merely
assuming it to be a solitary rock.

Nothing in this name would lead a seaman to imagine a high rock, placed on the
southern edge of a coral lagoon island, three miles long north and south, by the same
east and west.

Its description should stand thns : — A very dangerous low lagoon island, destitute
of trees, with a high rock on its southern edge, which may be mistaken for a sail.

This rock can be seen 15 miles. In thick weather the low coral belt, which
appears like sand, will not be distinguished ustil close to it. Tho breakers on the
eastern side of it do not afford sufficient warning for a vessel to trim or chan<;e course.
On the northern part of the belt the land is a little raised, and appears to be clad with
something like grass.

There are two entrances, which at high water may be safe ; but at the moment we
passed, the surf was too heavy, and the reflux showed the rocks bare. The dangers
from the rock, northerly, extend two miles easterly, and the same north-westerly. On
the beach several large trees were observed, and an object which was thought to be
part of a vessel, near the western opening.

IIP

fknpag* 403

SOCORRO ISLAND

ft BRAITHWAITE BAY

(Soundings in Fathoms)

«-*>'

«i.u.PJS«^ "

Itt. 18°42'57'K.

Nmtie Milci

■f^

LONDON, June* bnray * Son.

'•"^^""'"--

REVILLAGIGEDO ISLANDS.

403

In the centre of the lagoon, as viewed from the mast-head, there is one large hole of
blue water, and a second belt is connected with rock, attaching it to the eastern side
of the island. This literally constitntes two islands, formed by its two openings ; both
are on the weathirr side of the island.

No living trees were seen, but the whole island was covered with gannet, boobies,
frigate, pelicans, and several kinds of tern, which had also been noticed in great numbers
during the previous week, at least 500 miles to the eastward. From this, an easterly
current may be inferred, as these birds generally keep in its stream or tail course. =•=

No bottom was obtained by the Sulphur, with 100 fathoms of line, but the Starlinrj
had soundings with less than 100 fathoms on the northern side of the island.

Sharks, porpoises, and turtle were observed together. The former annoyed us much
by biting at our patent logs, for which one was taken, and made an example of. They
were very large, and literally swarmed. In all probability, they were attracted by a
shoal of file (balistes) and other small fish which had been feeding ofif our copper since
quitting the island of Cocc::."

KBVXiXAaiOBDO zsxJkiVDB. — This is a group of islands in lat. 18° 43', the largest
of which, Socorro, is stated to be nearly 80 miles in circumference. They are evidently
of volcanic origin, and are said to supply neither wood nor water. The name Bevella
Gigeda, or Bevillagigedo as the 'slandi are more generally called, was given by Golnett
in 170B, in compliment to the Viceroy of Mexico, from whom he had received much
kindness and civility.

Boeorro. — This island is lofty, making in several peaks, the highest of which is
about 8400 feet above the sea level. The extent of the island in a N. by W. ^ W.
and S. by E. \ E. direction is about 10 miles, and its average breadth is cbout
7 miles. It may be said to consist of one mountain, which can be seen at the
distance of about 20 leagues in clear weather, falling in a gradual descent on the
south side. It is in a great measure covered with brush-wood, intermixed with the
low prickly pear trees, and occasionally shaded with other trees of a larger growth.
Some few patches of the soil are black and barren, as if fire had lately issued near it ;
and the top of the high laud has the appearance, from a distance, of being an extinct
volcano ; the surface is of a whitish colour, like that of pumice-stone. Although
Socorro has not recently given evidence of volcanic action, there is litl.:^ doubt that
the whole of this group of islets originated from that source.

Off the north and west coasts of Socorro are some detached rocks ; and some rocks
lie off the southern shore, which is a high bold coast {see plan).

There are two bnys on the southorn side of the island, atlbrding anchorage to vessels,
viz : — r.-aithwaite and Cornyrallis bays.

Braithwitite Baij is an open roadstead, exposed to the eastward and southward ; in it
the soundings are 17 to 10 fathoms, sand and coral. Its position is lat. 18° 42' 57"
and long, 110° 60' 58", according to Commander G. I>ewoy, U.B.S. Narraijamett,

* It doe8 not tliereforn follow, as a matter of course, as notiofid by gome writers, that the appear-
anoo of birds denotes land to windward ; they are more likely guided by tide.

dd2

■■

404

REVILLAGIGEDO ISLANDS.

1874, who remarks : — " There is good anchorage in the fine season — that is, from
December to Jane — in Braithwaite bay. This bay, or cove, is on the soath-oast side
of th^ island, and may be recognized by its stony beach, the only one on the island, all
other parts of the coast being iron-bound. There is a good landing-place at the bottom
of the cove, and our observation-spot was on the small sand-spot near the landing-place.

To anchor in this bay, bring the highest peak of the island to bear N.W. by N., and
anchor in 10 or 11 fathoms, a quarter of a mile from the beach.

Cape Henslord, on the north-west side of the island, is a perpendicular bluff 100
feet high. O'Neal rock, 45 feet high, lies l^'^ miles N. by W. of cape Henslord.

Gape Middleton, the northern point of the island, is a perpendicular bluff 60 feet
high. Two small rocks, one 60 feet and the other 15 feet high, lie about a mile
north-east of this cape. All the eastern side of the island consists of perpendicular
bluffs from 15 to 100 feet, with no landing-place even in fine weather.

Comivallia bay, on the west side of the island, affords a good anchorage in easterly
winds. It is necessary to approach quite near to the white coral beach, as the water
is deep. The highest peak of the island bears from the anchorage E. ^ S."

Sir E. Belcher observes respecting this bay (1840) : — " The landing is rocky, with
shores of lava couU, and nothing like a beach. Neither wood nor water was visible,
although from the constant clouds which hang over the high peaks, there must be a
supply in some other point. Lieut. Wood was despatched to examine the westward
bay for wood or water. His report (not having landed) was, * that goats were observed,
the bay spacious, but no indications of wood or water visible.' It is probable that the
goats find water. I found it difficult to penetrate into the interior of the island, even
for a few hundred feet, owing to the prevalence of the cactus.

Ban Banadieto Xaland. — This island is distant about 8G miles N. i E. from the summit
of Socorro, and is in lat. 19° 19', long. 110° 49' (Com. Dewoy, U.S.S. Norraffansetl).
When viewed from southward, it has a barren appearance, with little or no vegetation.
It is about 2^ miles long, in a N. by E. and S. by W. direction, and half a mile in
breadth, and has a few rocks, just above the water, off several parts of it. Its surface
is uneven, and its aspect is described as romantic, as it has the appearance of two
distinct islets, when seen from a distance of 9 or 10 miles. The highest peak is near
the southern end, and has an altitude oi 812 feet. Another peak, 708 feet high, is
near the middle of the island.

On the eastern side of the island, near the middle, is a small shingle beach, where
boats might land in good weather.

There are three small detached rocks off the west side, near the northern end and
\ei7 near the island, from 60 to 200 feet high. A dangerous sunken rock, with 10 or
12 feet of water on it, lies 1 mile west of the extreme western point of the island.

Boea rartida. — This is a dangerous barren rock, 100 yards long, in a N.N.W. and
S.S.E. direction, lying in lat. 19° 0', long. 112° 7' (Cora. Dewey, U.S.S. Narragan-
sett). Its breadth is only 50 to GO yards, and both ends are 80 to 90 feet in height,
the north-west end appearing forked, and the south-east end like a ragged huy-cock.
The two heights are separated by a ragged saddle, which rises 18 or 20 feet above the
surface of the sea, and is nearly perpendicular. At a boat's length from the rock

Factpao* 40£

QVABALOfUPE ISLAND

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ALIJOS ROCKS

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ALIJOS ROCKS AND GUADALOUPE.

405

there are 85 fathoms; and at half a mile off, 50 fathoms ; and afterwards no bottom
with 100 fathoms of line. The rock appears from every direction like a sail under a
jury-mast.

OUrion. — Westward of Socorro and Boca Partida islands is Clarion, a small island
of considerable height, and very similar in its natural features to Socorro island. The
hills are lofty, the highest peak, near the west end, beiug estimated to be 1100 feet
high, and when bearing to the N.E. they make in three hummocks, which give the
island, from a distance, the appearance of three distinct islets. It is probable that
contains but little fresh water, although there must be a great deal precipitated from
the clouds, which almost constantly hang over the high land. Neither wood nor other
necessaries can be obtained, still a vessel in great distress might have her wants to
Bome extent relieved.

The island is about 5 miles long, and 2 miles broad, and has been bat little ex-
amined, particularly the north shore. On its southern side is a small bay named
Sulphur, the east side of which is, according to Commander Dewey, in about lat.
18° 20' 80", long. 114° 46'; in this Sir Edward Belcher attempted to moor, but was
prevented by the breaking of bis anchor. The Qast end of the island appears to be
steep and precipitous.

Commander Dewey says: — " There is a tolerable anchorage in northerly winds in Sul-
phur bay, on the south side of the island, and about midway between Shag rock and
Rocky point. The best anchorage is in 12 or 18 fathoms, -^^ of a mile from the sand-
beach.

All other parts of the coast of this island are iron-bound, consisting of perpendicular
bluffs from 80 to 600 feet high. A remarkable monument rock 200 feet high, with
several others near it, lies off the north-west point of the island. Another detached
rook 25 feet high lies 4 cables off the north side.

A salt-water lagoon is near tho beach at Sulphur bay, but no fresh wator could be
fix . As doves are quite numerous there must be a supply somewhere on the island.

Fi^h and turtle nre numerous, also many varieties of sea birds."

In the v'cjinity of Clarion, several islands have been reported, and Sir Edward
Belcher sought for them for a considerable time, without success. It may therefore
be conclndod that as the position of the island was not till lately accurately ascertained,
it has been seen by various parties, and reported by each as a distinct discovery.

AXiXJOB BOOKB. — This is a very dangerous group of rocks, lying off the coast of
California, in lat. 24° 57' 25", long. 115° 47' 80". The southernmost and largest
rock is about 110 feet high, and there are many above and under water clpse to it.

OVADALOVPII. — This island is northward of the Alijos rocks, and its north point
is represented to be in lat. 29° 10' 50", long. 118° 18' 80". It is about 15 miles long
by 5 miles broad, and is very lofty in tho interior, a chain of hills extending through
the whole length of tho island. The highest of these hills is over 2000 feet high, and
one near the north point of the island is estimated to be even 8412 feet in elevation.
The island can be seen a distance of about GO miles, and will appear, when beai'iug
either east or west, lower at its southern extremity thiin at its northern.

Off the south oud of tho island r.ie two rocky islets at some distance from tlic Nhoro)
the outermost of which is 500 feet high. The shores arc in general bold, but have

406

HEED ROCKS OR FALMOUTH SHOAL.

not been closely examined ; althongh it is sud that a small cove exists on the sonth-
east shore, which is formed by some rocky islets, and contains the only anchorage in
the island, the riding being in 7 fathoms, and the shelter from all vinds except those
between S.E. and E.N.E.

But few snpplies of any description can be obtained here, the island being quite
barren and rocky, and affording very little sustenance for any thing except goals. It
is said that wood and water may be obtained from a cove on the north-east side of t'je
island.

Vancouver says that the Spaniards were accustomed to make this island when bound
southward from Monterey, or from their other northern settlements ; in which route
they passed westward and out of sight of the California islands, for the advantage of
continaing in the strength of the N.W. winds; they thus reached this island, and
afterwards steered a course for cape San Lucas.

Bead Books or Faimoatii Shoal. — Captain Reed of the brig Emma, 1850, is said
to have discovered two rocks in lat. 87° 24' N., long. 187" 27' W., lying N.E. and
6.W., — one 160 fathoms long and 66 fathoms wide, the other about 100 fathoms long
and 88 fathoms wide ; 8 and 6 fatiioms water were found over them respectively, and
in his opinion the se.% would break over the rocks in heavy weather. The U.S. sloop-
of-war Falmouth also saw them in 1851 ; the position given being the same as that
originally reported by Captain Reed. In 1856 Captain Redfield of the whaler Abigail,
saw some rocks with only 10 feet water over them, the largest 150 feet long by 50 feet
broad ; and saw a quarter of a mile S.S.E. of these discoloured water, indicating
another and smaller patch; the position given being 11 miles faitber north and 8'
more westerly than th^t reported by Captain Reed, viz., — lat. 87° 85' N., long.
187° 80' W. All the reports probably refer to the same danger, if it exists, which is
doubtful, as several vessels have since passed over the locality without noticing any
indication of danger.

In 1871 and again in 1878 the site of this reported shoal, between the parallels
87° 15' and 87° 88' N., and between the meridians 187° 5' and 188° 10' W., was
examined by the U.S. Coast Surveyors without finding any shoal spots. Commander
G. Bradford, of schooner Marcij, ran over 1000 miles, and determined 50 positions in
the vicinity ; soundings were frequently taken, but no bottom was found even with
1850 fathoms of line. Commander Johnson of the steamer Hassler, made 100 casta
of the lead in the locality but without finding bottom in 2100 fathoms. The steamer
ran 1400 i^iiles during this examination.

auBm

407

APPENDIX.

WINDS ON THE WESTERN COAST OF AMERICA AND IN THE

PACIFIC.

The following remarks on the winds which prevail in some parts of the Pacific, and
on the North-western coast of America, are by Lieutenant James Wood, H.M.S.
Pandora.*; —

" The prevailing winds of the Pacific, with the exception of those on the coastfl of
Chili and Pern, are little known. A few remarks, therefore, on those that obtain
along the western coast of America, from the river Guayaquil to Vancouver island, as
well as on the more regular and extended aerial currents which traverse the vast ex-
panse of the open ocean, condensed from observations and information collected during
a four years' cruize over the greater part of it, may not be destitute of interest and
utility, especially as the northern portion is but littl" known, and promises, ere long,
to become the theatre of au important trade between the coasts of China and the new
and rich countries which American enterprise and energy are now so rapidly peopling
and raising from obscurity on the coast of California.

The whole of this extensive line may be divided into three portions or zones : —

1. — The intertropical, which is more or less afi'ected by the fine and rainy seasons.

2. — The dry and arid portion which extends from 28" to 82° north, where the winds
blow with almost the regularity of a trade wind.

8. — The more variable northern coast, which is subject to greater vicissitudes of
climate.

I. Tii« Xntcrtropieal. — Ghtayaquil River to Ouaseama Point. — Along the whole of
the coast from the river Guayaquil, in lat. 8° S., to Guascama point in lat. 2" N., the
wind is mostly from south to west all the year round ; the exceptions are few, and
generally occur iu the fine season. Both in beating up this coast to the southward,
and in running down it, the former in the months of May and June, the latter in those
of October, November, and January, we had the wind from S.S.E. to W. (by the
south), with a constant current to the north-eastward, the only difference being that
the winds were lighter, and the weather fin«r iu May and June as ve got to the south-
ward ; whilst the contrary took place in October and November ; and iu January the
weather was generally fine, with moderate breeaes.

Choco Bay. — After entering the bay of Choco, of which point Guascama forms the
southern horn, the winds become more variable ; but during the time we were iu tho
bay (from the niii of January to the middle of March) it never blew very fresh, though
tho weather was often unsettled and heavy rains frequent. The prevailing wind was
from south-west, but north-westerly winds were not uncommon.

Cidniinbira Point to the Gulf of San Miffuel. — When past Chirambira point (the
northern horn of Choco bay) we had the wind more from the northward, aud iu the
latter end of March had to beat up to Panama bay against north-westerly and north-
easterly breezes, blowing a fresh breeze at times, especially as we approached the bay.

See the Nautical Mayazine, 1850.

408

APPENDIX.

In flnrveying this Inst named part, in Jannary 1848, we fonnd the mnis more
variable, heavy rainn almost always accompanying a change to south-west, from which
quarter we once or twice had a stiff breeze.

Gulf of San Migxiel to the Gnlf of Dttlce, including the Bay of Panama. — Between
the southern point of the Gulf of San Miguel and the gulf of Dulce, including Panama
bay and the coast of Veragua, the 'vinds are regulated by the seasons. Towards the
end of December the "northers" begin to blow. These are line, dry breezes which
generally come on in the afternoon, and blow very fresh from N.N.E. to N.N.W. till
near midnight, with a perfectly clear and cloudless sky, and the air so dry and rare-
fied, that objects on a level with the horizon are distorted and flattened, and the same
effects are caused as are seen during an easterly breeze off our own coast. Though
generally a double-reefed top-sail breeze, they occasionally blow much hard' ■
especially off the coast of Veragua, where, in the months of January and Februa
even a close-reefed top-sail breeze is not uncommon. During even the stronges' .
these, a dead calm often prevails 10 or 15 miles off the land, the only evidence of tna
gale that is blowing within a few hundred yards of you being the agitation of the water,
which is raised into short hollow waves, which break on board of and tumble you about
considerably.

Towards the end of M^rch up to the middle of April, the "northers" begin to cease,
and are succeeded by cnlms aud light sea and land breezes, with occasional squalls
from the south-westwari' As April advances the squalls get stronger and more fre-
quent, and by the early part of May the rainy season generally sets in, during the
greater part of which south and south-westerly winds prevail : these are not very
violent within the bay of Panama ; but from cape Mala, westward, gales from the
above quarters are frequent, and sometimes severe, bringing a very heavy sea with
them.

Gulf of Dulce to the Gvlf of Fonseca. — From the Gulf of Dulce, proceeding west-
ward along the shores of Co»ta Rica, Guatemala, and Mexico, we find the winds still
follow the changes of the seasons, modified, however, by locality. For instance, when-
ever the "northers" prevail, we find them blowing off the shore at nearly right angles
to the run of the coast : thus, as soon as the coast of Nicaragua is approached (which
takes a more northerly direction than that before mentioned), we find, during the fine
season, the " northers " exchanged for breezes called ' papagayos.' These blow from
N.N.E. to E.N.E. or E., and are accompanied by the same elear fine weather as the
' northers'; the prevailing wind, however, during this season (from January to April)
is from south-east to north-east. From May to November, which is the rainy season,
tho weather is mostly bad, gales from the west and south-west, with thunder, light-
ning, &o., being frequent and at times violent.

Gulf of Fonnera to the Gulf of Tehuautepec. — After passing the gulf of Fonseca,
where the land again trends nearly due west, the northerly winds are lost, till on
reaching the gulf of Tehuautepec we meet them once more, but under a different name,
and assuming a more violent character. Along this portion where the mountains
approach, and even in some places form the coast line, the winds during the fine
season are the usual tropical land and soa breezes; the former from N.W., the latter
from S. to W.S.W. and W. The remaining months are marked by even worse weather
from the same quarters as is found on the Nicaragua coast.

Gulf of Tehuautepec to Tcjupan Point. — The heavy blasts which blow over the
isthmus of Tehuautepec, derive their source from tho country they cross. They seem
to bo caused by the " northers " in the gulf of Mexico, which here find a vent through
tho opening formed between tho IMcxican and Guatemalian mount'iins. They blow
with great force from Nortli to N.N.E., and raise a very high siiort sea ; their force is
felt several hundred miles off the coast. Duripg the season when they prevail (Decem-
ber to April) every preparation should be made to meet and carry sail through them :
if this can be done they are soon crossed, and 200 to 2C0 miles of westing (or easting)
made ; otherwise, if you are obliged to heave to, 86 to 118 hours of heavy weather
may be expected, exposed all the while to a very high and short sea. In the rainy
season these cease; but the weather here, as along tho whole coast of Mexico, is then
very bad, gales and strong breezes from S.E. to S.W. constantly occur, whilst squalls
Aooompanied by thunder and lightning, with heavy, aud almost inceseaat rain, charac-

jgrngg^gmgrn

APPENDIX.

409

lerise the season thonghont. These gales are at times very severe, rendering the
navigation of snch a coast very unpleasant, as, with one exception, there is scarcely
any shelter from them to be found. Daring the fine season, however, nothing can be
more regular or quiet than the weather on the Mexican coast ; a regular sea breeze
sets in about noon, beginning from S.S.W. to W.S.W., and getting more westerly as
the sun goes down, decreasing with it, and gradually sinking into a calm as the night
closes in. This is succeeded by the land wind off the shore, which is more irregular
in its direction and force, but these winds, and the method of making a passage to the
westward, along the coast, have been so well, and so truly described by Dampier and
Basil Hall, that nothing remains but to add my testimony to the correctness of the
accounts they give, as far as the phenomena fell under my own observation.

As soon as the coast begins to trend northerly again, which it does about Tejnpan
point, we meet the northerly winds which blow down the gulf of California, and which
are found pretty bteady during the fine season a few miles off the coast; by taking
advantage of these, and the daily variations caused by the land and sea breezes, the
passage is made from this point to San Bias and Mazatlan ; but it is always a tedious
beat, owing to a contrary current and frequent calms.

II. Second Fortion or Divlaion. — Caj>e San Lucas to San Diego. — From cape San
Lucas to San Diego, or from 28° to 32° N., the general direction of the wind is from
west to north, but during the winter months, or from November to April, this coast is
subject to violent gales from the S.E., which, as most of the bays and anchorages are
open toward that quarter, are much dreaded. This is especially the case along the
northern portion of this division, as towards cape San Lucas they are less frequent;
however, they always give ample warning of their approach. The only way, therefore,
of making a passage up this coast, is by standing off upon the starboard tack — as
you get out, the wind draws to the eastward — till either the variables are reached,
or you can fetch your port on the other tack. In the summer season the only altera-
tion is that the wind is more westerly in the mornings, and draws round with the sun
as the day advances.

III. Third Dtvlaion. — San Diego to San Francisco — From San Diego to San Fran-
cisco the wind prevails from the north-westward nearly all the year round. This coast
is subject to the same south-easterly gales as the coast of Lower California, but they
are more frequent here, and blow with greater force. All the bays and roadsteads are
similarly exposed with the exception of the above named ports, which are perfectly
secure and defended from all winds. During the winter, therefore, vessels always
anchor in a convenient berth for slipping, with springs and buoys on their cables, so that
on the first appearance of heavy clouds approaching from the south-east, with a heavy
swell rolling up from the same quarter (the invariable signs of the coming gale), they
may be able to slip and go to sea without loss of time. These gales last from 12 hours
to two days, and are accompanied by heavy rain, which lasts till the wind changes,
which it often does very suddenly, and blows as hard for a few hours from the north-
west, when the clouds clear off and fine weather again succeeds. Off point Concepcion
gales and strong breezes are so frequent as to obtain for it the appellation of the cape
Horn of California. They are mostly from north to west, and frequently blow with
great force, especially in the winter, when they sometimes last for three days together,
without a cloud to be seen, till they begin to moderate. But here one of the most
remarkable features of this coast first shows itdclf, viz., the frequent and dense fogs,
which, during more than half the year, render the navigation from San Diego north-
ward most unpleasant. In making the land, the only way to deal with them, is to feel
your way into the coast with the lead during the day-time, as it frequently happens
that a thick fog prevails at sea, while, at the same time, within a mile or two of the
land, a beautiful clear bright sky, and open horizon are to be found : if disappointed
in this, you have but to wear, haul off again, and heave to till the desired change does
take place.

San Francisco to Vancouver Island. — From San Francisco northward to the strait
uf Juan de Fnca, the north-westerly are still the prevailing winds; in the months of
Jiiuo, September, and October, we found them almost constantly so; hard gales from
all points of the cqppass, however, may be looked for here at all seasons, especially

410

APPENDIX.

daring the winter, and the equinoctial months. These begin generally from S.E. to
S.W., bringing thick rainy weather with them. After blowing from these quarters for
some hours, they fly round to the northward (by the west), with little if any warning,
except the increased heaviness of the rain, and blow even harder than before. During
the spring, easterly and north-westerly breezes are more prevalent than at other sea-
sons. In the summer months, westerly winds and fine weather prevail, but from the
end of July to the end of August the fogs are so frequent that many weeks will some-
times pass without a clear day.

Method of HaUas rasaasM vtthia tho Xat Btvlalea. — From the touthward to
Panama Bay. — From what has been said respecting the winds which prevail within
the first division, it will be seen that the passage from the southward to Panama bay
is easily made daring the greater part of the year; but in the fine season, when within
the influence of the "northers", the following plan should be adopted. Make short
tacks in-shore, as there is generally a set to the northward found within a few miles of
the land, and nhere that is interrupted, a regular tide is exchanged for a constant
current fiirther ofif. Between Chirambira point and cape Corrientes the land is low
and faced with shoals, caused by the mouths of the numerous rivers which have their
outlets on this part of the coast, but after passing cape Corrientes, it may be approached
pretty closely, except off Solano point, where some shoal rocky patches extend to sea-
ward, as the coast is in general bold-to. Care, however, should be taken not to run
into the calms caused by the high lands, as it is difficult to get off into the breeze
again, and the swell sets iu-shore where it frequently happens that no anchorage is to
be found till close to the rocks.

In beating up the bay of Panama, in the fine season, the eastern passage, or that
between the Perlas islands and the main is to be preferred, as, with one exception, it
is free from dangers. The water is smooth, and a regular tide enables you to make
more northing than it would be possible to do in nine cases out of ten against the
strong current and short high sea which at this season prevail in the centre or on the
western side. During the rainy season a straight course up the bay is preferable to
entangling yourself with the islands, the current generally following the direction of
the wind.

Panama Bay to tlie Southward. — But the great difficulty, at all times, consists in
getting either to the southward or westward of Panama. The passage to the south-
ward is made in two ways, — either by beating up the coast against a constantly foul
wind and contrary curreut, or by standing off to sea till sufficient southing is made to
allow you to fetch your port on the starboard tack. Both plans are very tedious, as it
frequently takes twenty days to beat up to Guayaquil, whilst six or seven days are an
average passage down.

Panama Bay to tJts Westward. — If bound to the westward during the "northers,"
a great deal of time may be saved by keeping close in-shore, and thus taking advantage
of them ; they will carry you as far as the gulf of Nicoya. When past the Morro
Hermoso, 'papagayos' maybe looked for, and with them a coarse should be steered
ft>r the gulf of Tehuantepec, and it will then depend on the port you are bound to,
whether, after crossing the gulf by the aid of one of its gales, you should keep in or off
shore. If bound for Acapulco, keep in, and beat up ; but if bound to the westward,
you cannot do better than make a west coarse, as nearly all the winds will allow you :
but as the in-shore winds are now under discussion, we will leave the consideration of
the best means of reaching the trade winds for a future occasion.

The passage to the westward of Panama, during the rainy season, is a most tedious
affair, — calms, squalls, contrary winds, and currents, accompanied by a heavy swell,
and extreme heat, as well as an atmosphere loaded with moisture and rain, are the
daily accompaniments. It often occurs that 20 miles of westing are not made in a
veek, and it is only by the industrious use of every squall and slant of wind, that the
passage can be made at all. Opinions are divided amongst the coasters as to the pro-
priety of working to the southward and trying to get rid of the bad weather, or beating
up within a moderate distance of the land. My experience would lead me to prefer
the latter, as the strong winds and frequent squalls which so often occur near the land,
sometimes allow a long leg to be made to the north-westward, while, farther off, this
advantage la sacrificed for only a shade finer weather.

APPENDIX.

ill

a«li«m Obaorratloiis rMpaetins tta« Off-shor« Winds. — With renpect to the
winds which prevail in the open ocean, the same general rales obtain in the Pacific,
as are recognised throughoat the rest of the globe, i.e, a north-eastern trade within the
limits of the northern tropic, and a soath-eastern within the southern ; also as to the
prevalence of westerly winds when either to the northward or southward of those
boundaries. There are, however, exceptions to these rules. Within the tropics,
wherever large groups of islands are found, the trades are subject to great variations
both in direction and force. Also to the northward of the tropic of Cancer, when
bound from the Sandwich islands for the American coast, there are many instances,
during the spring and summer, of 45° or even 60° of north latitude being reached,
before a westerly wind could be obtained.

Galapagos hUtnda to Cape San Lucas. — 1 have already alluded to the difficulty of
getting to the westward from the bay of Panama. The trade wind seems to possess
no steady influence to the eastward of a line drawn from cape San Lucas, in 28° N.,
to the Galapagos islands on the equator. Amongst these islands the south-eastern
trade wind is steady during nine or ten months of the year, and it is only in January
and February, and sometimes March, that they are interrupted by long calms, and
occasional breezes north and north-west, but these are never of any strength. To the
northward of them, the eastern limit of the trade seems to depend upon the time of
the year. In the early part of April, I have found it between the parallels of 8° and
18° North, 900 to 1000 miles farther to the eastward than at the end of June; and in
the intermediate months, either more or less to the eastward as it wa«i earlier or later
in the season, but in no case that I have met with has a steady or regular trade been
experienced till the above line has been reached. It is this circumstance, and the
prevalence in the intermediate space of westerly winds, calms, and contrary eurt'enta,
that makes the passage from Panama to the westward, as far as this line, so tedious.
I have been 40 days beating from the entrance of the bay, in 80° W., to the eastern
edge of the trade, in 111° W., a distance of less than ?i000 miles, or, on an average,
about 40 miles per day.

From the Meridian of Cape San Lucas, Westward. — When once within the influence
of the trades, a passage is easily made either to southward, westr - % or northward ;
but it. must bo borne in mind that the eastern verge of this trade seems, in these parts,
to be influenced by the seasons. Thus in June and July, I found it fresh from
N.N.W., and even at times N.W., as far out as the meridian of 125° W., whereas in
March and April it was light from N.N.E. to E. and E.S.E. from our first meeting it
in 98° W. till past the meridian of cupe San Lucas in 110° W., where I jMcked up a
good steady breeze from N.N.E.

As a general rule the wind is found to haul more to the eastward as yon get farther
ofi* the land, and I did not find this rule affected by the latitude, as, although, as I
have stated, the wind hangs to the northward, and even at times to the westward of
north, near the eastern limit of the trade, from the tropic of Cancer to the variables
near the equator, I found it about the meridian of the Sandwich islands, as far to the
eastward on and near the line as it was in 85° north, in which latitude the westerly
winds are in general met with.

From the Sandwich Islands to ths Northward and Eastward. — The passages, there-
fore, from the Sandwich islands to any part on the north-west coast of America, are
made by standing to the northward till the westerly winds are reached, when the run
into the coast is easily made, taking care, however, if bound to a port to the south-
ward of yon, not to bear up till well in with the land, when, as I have said, north*
westerly winds will be found to carry you down to the southward.

On this coast, as a general rale, the land should always be made to the northward
of the port you are bound to, as in almost all cases the wind and current both prevail
, from the northward from Vancouver island to cape Corrientes of Mexico.

Though lying between the parallels of 19" and 28° north, the Sandwich islands are
often visited during the winter months with strong breezes and gales from south and
south-west, but for the rest of the year the trade-wind blows pretty steadily. In
making a passage thence to the coast of Chili or Peru, the best way is to stand across
the trade as near the wind as the top-mast-Btaddiug-sail will stand. This, as the

^•

11^

412

APPENDIX.

direction of the wind is in general from E.N.E. to E., will enable yon to make Tahiti,
and pass the Society islands by one of the clear channels to the westward of it. It is
of little use trying to fetch to the eastward of these, &s not only do yon loose much
time by hugging the wind too close, hut also the strong current which sets to the
westward, from 20 to 40 miles a day, is pretty sure to drift you that much to leeward;
and even were this not the case, so difficnlt, tedious, and dangerous is the navigation
amongst the archipelago of low coral islands which lies to the eastward, that unless
you can weather the Marquesas altogether, it it better even to bear up, than to entangle
yourself in such a labyrinth. After passing the Society islands, stand on to the south-
ward, till, in or about the 80th parallel, the westerly winds will be found. These will
carry you into the coast; care being taken, as on the northern coast, not to bear up
when within the influence of the southerly winds, till near enough to the land to en-
sure keeping them down to your port.

Trad* winds Affaeted by Oronps of ZUamds. — I have before stated, when once within
the influence of these island groups, the trade winds are fonnd to be subject to great
alterations and deflections, or lost altogether. This is especially the case during the
time the sun is to the southward of the equator amongst those in the southern
hemisphere. West and south-west, as well as north-west winds are then often experi-
enced, and amongst tho far western groups, heavy gales almost amounting to hurricanes
are experienced, when from their latitude they should be in the very centre of the trade
winds. As a proof of this deviation from the nsnal course of the trade when near large
groups of islands, I may mention, that, when making the passage from the Sandwich
to the Society islands, in June 1840, I had the wind nearly east all the way to the
parallel of the Marquesas (10° S.), when it came from the eoutn -eastward ; but I left
Tahiti at the same month for Valparaiso with a north-westerly wind, though this island
is situated in 17° S. This carried me 600 miles to the westward, nor did I again
meet the trade, though the usual boundary (the parallel of 80° S.) was not passed till
I had sailed with (for the most part) a fair wind, upwards of 2000 miles to the east-
ward.

From the time I left Piteairn island (18th July) to within 100 miles of the American
coast, a distance of more than 8000 miles, I experienced strong winds, and sometimes
gales from south round by west to north-west, only one day's interval ; this being, from
all accounts, the general character of winds in these latitudes."

The following remarks are from the Mercantile Marine Magazine, 185S, " In the
year 1855, in connection with the U.S. Survey of the Pacific coast, observations were
made on the character of the winds of the Western coast of the United States, at three
permanent stations, viz : —

Astoria, Oregon lat. 46° 11' N. long. 128° 49' W.

San Francisco, California - - . - „ 87 48 „ 122 28

San Diego „ „ 82 40 „ 117 12

The directions of the wind were noted in points, and the observations taken three
times each day, at 6 a.m., at noon, and at 6 p.m., except on Monday in each week,
when hourly observations were made. From these, the following general characteristics
may be said to predominate : —

1. The great prevalence of westerly winds, representing a flow of the air at the
surface from the ocean in upon the land.

2. The general absence of easterly winds, showing the absence of a return current
at the surface.

The proportion of westerly to easterly winds is as 8 to 1.

8. 'f he increase of westerly winds in the summer, and their decrease in the winter.

4. That when easterly winds blow at all, it is as a rule during the winter.

5. The N. N.E., and £. v/inds blow more frequently in the morning than in the
afternoon hours.

G. The S.E., S., and S.W. winds, are in general pretty equally distributed over the
morning and evening hours.

7. The N.W. is the prevailing direction of the ordinary sea breexe at Astoria and
San Diego, and tho W. at San Francisco.

WBBoami

APPENDIX.

418

Sometimes the W. wind haa that character at the first named stationu, and some-
times the S.W. wind at the lost named.

As some of the details connected with these observations will be of service to oar
naniioal readers, tliey are here famished.

San Francisco : — At Saa Francisco the great current of air flowing from the sea to
the land comes generally from the W. or 8.W., rarely from the N.W.

In the period from November to March, inclasive, the W. is the prevailing wind,
exceeding in qaautity both the others, the S.W. wind exceeding in quantity the N.W.
In the period from April to October, the W. and S.W. winds are nearly equal, and each
exceeds the N.W.

The W. wind has, in general, the features attributed to the sea breeze, beginning
aft^r the rising of the sun, increasing antil after the hottest part of the day, and dying
oat or mach diminishing at nightfall.

The W. and S.W. winds are prominent features at San Francisco.

The S.W. is the prevailing wind in June and July ; S.W. and W. winds blowing
nearly the whole of those months, not succeeded by an easterly land breeze — but rising
and falling. May and August resemble each other, the N.W. and S.W. winds being
nearly equal in quantity, and each less than the W. wind. In April and September
the N.W. wind has nearly died out. The W. wind dinainishes in quantity through
March and February, and through October, November, and December, to January.
The «.W. wind increases again from April towards December, and is very small in
October and November. The S.W. wind disappears in October, reappearing in
November and December, and increasing towards January. The W. wind has a
maximum in April and May, and another in September and October, the minima being
Jaly and January.

The N. wind in December, January, and Febmary, reaching a maximum in January,
is the only other point to be noticed for San Francisco, partaking with the other places
in ^he general absence of easterly winds, although these show themselves slightly in
winter. There is also but little S. wind.

Astoria and San Diego. — In general, the winds at these two places resemble each
other more than those at San Francisco do either. April, May, June, July and August
have the same general character.

The N.W. wind is the summer wind and has the characteristics of the sea breeze,
but there is no return land breeze. The N.W. wind reaches a maximum in July, and
a minimum in December. It is the great prevailing wind of the year at San Diego.
As it decreases it is generally replaced by W. and S.W. winds of less quantity. In
December the quantities of the three winds are nearly equal.

The resemblanto of these winds at San Diego and Astoria is remarkable, the remarks
just made applying generally to both places. There is, however, much less N.W.
wind at Astoria than at San Diego. Except in June, July and Augnst, there is some
S. wind each month at Astoria, and especially from September through October,
November, December and February. At San Diego this is less marked, the two
agreeing most nearly in quantity in March, April and May.

Tho S.E. wind is a distinct feature in both places in February and March, and at
San Diego in April and June.

The E. wind is prominent at Astoria in Jannary, February and March, and the N.E.
from October to January, inclusive.

Astoria has the most easterly wind, the N.E. beginning in October and blowing until
February, and being replaced by the E. wind in March.

The summer is the windy season on the West coast, — July being one of the windiest
months of the year."

The following gener"' remarks are by Captain Basil Hall, B.N., "On the south-west
coast of Mexico, the fair season, or what is called the summer, though the latitude be
north, is from December to May inclusive. During this interval aloue it is advisable
to navigpto the cnaat ; for, in the winter, from June to November inclusive, every part
of it is liable to hard gales, tornadoes, or heavy squalls, to calnirt, to constant deluges
of rain, ar ^ the most dangeroas lightning ; added to which, almost ail parts of the

»'r<^

414

APPENDIX.

coasts are, at this time, so nnhealthy as to be abandoned by the inhabitants. At the
eastern end of this range of coast, about Panama, the winter sets in earlier than at San
Bias, which lies at the western end. Rains and sickness are looked for early in March
at Panama ; bat at San Bias rain seldom falls before the 15th of June ; sometimes,
however, it begins on the 1st of Jane, as we experienced. Of the intermediate coast
I have no exact information, except that December, January, and February are fine
mouths everywhere ; and that, with respect to the range between Acapulco and Panama,
the months of March, April, and half of May, are also fine ; at other times the coast
navigation may be generally described as dangerous, and on every account to be avoided.

From December to May inclusive, the prevalent winds between Panama and cape
Blanco (gulf of Nicoya) ara N.W. and northerly. Thence to Bealejo and Sonsonate,
N.£. and easterly. At this season, off the gulfs of Papagayo and Tehuan tepee there
blow hard gales, the first being generally N.E., and the latter N. These, if not too
strong, as they sometimes are, greatly accelerate the passages to the westward ; they
last for several days together, with a clear sky overhead, and a dense red haze near the
horizon. We sxperienced both in the Conu-a;/ in February, 1822. The first, which
was off the gulf of Papagayo on the 12th, carried us 280 miles to the W.N.W. ; but
the gale we met in crossing the gulf of Tehuantepec on the 24tb, 26th, and 26th, was
80 hard that we could show no sail, and were drifted off to the S.S.W. more than 100
miles. A ship ought to be well prepared on these occasions, for the gale 's not only
severe, but the sea, which rises quickly, is uncommonly high and short, so as to strain
a ship exceedingly.

From Acapulco to San Bias, what are called land and sea breezes blow ; but, as far
as my experience goes, during the whole of March, they scarcely deserve that name.
They are described as blowing from N.W. and W. during the day, and from N.£. at
night ; whence it might be inferred, that a shift of wind, amounting to eight points,
takes place between the day and night breezes. But, diiriug the whole distance
between Acapulco and Sar. Bias, together with about 100 miles east of Acapulco, which
we worked along, Lank for hank, we never found, or very rarely, that a greater shift
could be reckoned on than four points. Wioh this, however, and the greatest diligence,
a daily progress of from 80 to 60 miles may be made.

Such being the general state of the winds on this coast, it is necessary to attend to
the following directions for making a passage from the eastward : —

On leaving Panama for Bealejo or Sonsonate, come ont direct to the north-westward
of the Perlas islands ; keep from 20 to 80 leagues off the shore as far as cape Blanco
(gulf of Nicoya) ; and on this passage advantage must be taken of every shift of wind
to get to the north-westward. From cape Blanco hug the shore, in order to take
advantage of the north-easterly winds which prevail close-in. If a papai/ayo (as the
strong breeze out of that gulf is called) be met with, the passage to Sonsonate becomes
very short.

From Sonsonate to Acapulco, keep at the distance of 20, or, at most, 80 leagues
from the coast. We met with very strong currents running to the eastward at this
part of the passage : but whether by keeping farther in, or further ont, wo should have
avoided them, I am unable to say. The above direction is that UBUuUy held to be the
best by the old coasters.

If, when off the gulf of Tehuantepec, any of the hard breezes, which go by that name,
should come off, it is advisable, if sail can be carried, to case the sheets off, oud run
well to the westward, without seeking to make northing ; westing being, at all stages
of that passage, by far the most dil^cult to accomplish. On approaching Acapulco, tho
ahjre should be got hold of, and the land and sea breezes turned to account.

This passage in summer is to be made by taking advautngo of the difference in
directio/> between the winds in the night and the winds in the day. During some
months, the land winds, it is said, come more off the land than at others, and that the
sea breezes blow more directly on shore ; but in March we seldom found a greater
difference than four points ; and. to profit essentially by this small change, constant
vigilance and activity are indispensable. Tho sea breeze sets in, with very little
variation as to time, about noon, or a little before, and blows with more or loss strength,

APPENDIX.

41&

till the evening. It was n»nally freshest at two o'clock ; gradually fell after foar ; and
died away as the sun went down. The land breez? was by no means so regular as to
its periods or its force. Sometimes it came off in the first watch, but rarely before mid-
night, and often not till the morning, and was then generally light and uncertain. The
principal point to be attended to in this navigation is, to have the ship so placed at the
setting in of the sea breeze, that she shall be able to make use of the whole of it on
the port tack, before closing too much with the land. If this be accomplished, which
a little experience of the periods renders easy, the ship will be near the shore just as
the sea breeze has ended, and there she will remain in the best situation to profit by
the land wind when it comes ; for it not only comes off earlier to a ship near the coast,
bnt is stronger, and may always be taken advantage of to carry the ship off to the sea
breeze station before noon of the next day.

These are the best directions for navigating on this coast which I have been able to
procure ; they are drawn from various sources, and, whenever it was possible, modified
by personal experience. I am chiefly indebted to Don Manuel Luzurragui, master
attendant of Guayaquil, for the information they contain. In his opinion, were it
required to make a passage from Panama to San Bias, without touching at any inter-
mediate port, the best way would be to stretch well out, pass to the southward of Gocos
island, and then run with the southerly winds as far west as 96° before hauling up for
San Bias, so as to make a fair wind of the westerly breezes which belong to the coast.
An experienced old pilot, however, whom I met at Panama, disapproved of this, and
said, the best distance was 15 or 20 leagues all the way. In the winter months these
passages are very unpleasant, and it is indispensable that the whole navigation be much
farther off shore, excepting only between Acapnlco and San Bias, when a distance of
10 to 12 leagues will be sufiicient.

The return passages from the west are always much easier. In the period called
here the summer, from December to May, a distance of 80 to 50 leagues ensures a
fair wind all the way. In winter, it is advisable to keep still farther off, say 100
leagues to avoid the calms, and the incessant rains, squalls, and lightnings, which
everywiiere prevail on the coast at this season. Don Manuel Luzurragui advises,
during winter, that all ports on this coast should be made to the southward and east-
ward, as the ourreats in this tiine of the year set from that quarter.

If it were required to return ai^ect from San Bias to Lima, a course must be shaped
80 as to pass between the island of Cocos and the Galapagos, and to the south-eastward,
till the land be made a little to the southward of the equator, between cape Lorenzo
and cape St. Helena. From thence work along shore as far as point Aguja, in lat. 6° S.,
after which work due S., on the meridian of that point, as far as 11^° S., and then
stretch in-shore. If the outer passage were to be attempted from San Bias, it would
be neces mry to r-m to 25° or 80° S. across the trade, which would be a needless waste
of distance and time.

Such general observations as the foregoing, on a navigation still imperfectly known,
are perhaps better calculated to be useful to a stranger than detailed accounts of
passages made at particular seasons. For, although the success of a pabsage will
principally depend on the navigator's own vigilance in watching for exceptions to the
common rules, and on his skill and activity in profiting by them, yet ho must always
be materially aided by a knowledge of the prevalent winds and weather. As many
persons, however, attach a certain degree of value to actual observations made on
coasts little frequented, although the period in which they may have been made be
limited ; I have given in the two following notices, a brief abstract of the Coiiwtnj's
passages from Panama to Acapulco, and from Acapulco to San Bias. The original
notes from whence they are taken are too minute to interest any person not actually
proceeding to that quarter of the world.

Panama to Acapulco (5th of Feltruary to 1th of March, 1822—80 days). — We
sailed from Panama on the 4th of February, and anchored on that afternoon at the
island of Taboga, whore we filled up our water. Next evening, the fith, we ran out of
the bay with a fresh N.N.W. wind, and, at half-past two in the morning of tho 0th,
rounded cape Mala, and hauled tc ♦he westward. As tho day advanced, the breeze
slackened, and drew to the southward. In 24 hours, however, we had run 140 miles,

*iMmr^

416

APPENDIX.

and were entirely clear of the bight of Panama. It coat 08 nearly 6 days more before
we came abreast of cape Blanco (gulf of Niooya) ; at first we had light winds from
S.S.W., then a moderate breeze from N.N.W., which backed round to the eastward,
and was followed by a calm : daring each day we had the wind from almost every point
of the compass, bat light and ancertain. Between the 11th and 1 2th, we passed cape
Blanco, with a fresh breeze from S.S.E. and then S.S.W., which shifted suddenly to
the northward, afterwards to the N.N.E., where it blew fresh for upwards of 24 hours,
and enabled us to run more than 230 miles to the W.N.W. in one day. This breeze,
which is known by the name oi papaijmjo, failed us after passing the gulf of the same
name, and we then came within the in6uence of adverse currents. On reaching the
longitude of 92° W., on the 16th, we were set S. 16° W., 77 miles ; on the 17th, N.
16 miles ; on the 18th, E. 51 miles ; on the 19th, S. 78° E., 63 miles ; on the 20th,
S. 62° E., 45 miles ; on the 21st, S. 87° E., 17^ miles ; all of which we experienced
between 91° and 93° W., at the distance of 20 or 30 leagues from the shore ; mean-
while we had N.N.E. and northerly winds, and calms.

After these currents slackened, we made westing as far as 93^^°, by help of N.N.E.
and easterly winds. On the 22Qd, 23rd, and 24th, we were struggling against north-
westerly winds off G-uatemala, between 14° and 15.^° N. latitude. This brought us up
to the top of the bay of Tehuantepec at sunset of the 24th ; we then tacked and stood
to the westward. The weather at this time looked threatening ; the sky was clear
overhead, but all around the horizon there hung a fiery and portentous haze, and the
sun set in great splendour ; presently the breeze freshened, aud came to the north by
west, and before midnight it blew a hard gale of wind from north. This lasted, with
little intermission, till six in the morning of the 2Gth, or about 30 hours. There was,
during all the time, an uncommonly high short sea, which made the ship extremely
uneasy. The barometer fell from 29'94 to 29*81, between noon and 4 o'clock, p.m.,
but rose again as the gale freshened ; the sympiesometer fell twelve-hundredths. This
gale drove us to the S.W. by S., about 140 miles. A fine fresh breeze succeeded
from N.N.E., which carried us 120 miles towards Acapulco, and left us in longitude
97i° W. and latitude 15° N., on the 27th. This was the last fair wiud we had on the
coast ; all the rest of our passage, as far as San Bias, being made by dead beating.
The distance from Acapulco was now less than 180 miles, but it cost us 8 days' hard
work to reach it, principally owing to a steady drain of lee-current running E. by S.,
at the following daily rates, viz., 13, 16, 27, 87, 25, 10, 9, 7, and 9 miles. The
winds were, meanwhile, from N.W. to N.N.W., with an occasional spurt from S.E.
and S., and several calms. We had not yet learned the most effectual method of
taking advantage of the small variation between the day and night winds.

Acapulco to San Bias {12th to 28th of March, 1822 — 16 days). — This passage was
considered good for the mouth of March, but in the latter days of December, aud Ist
of January, an English merchant made it in 10 days, having a fair wind off shore
nearly all the way. A merchant brig, which passed Acapulco on the 6th of February,
at the distance of 150 miles, was a fortnight in reaching cape Corriontes, and nearly
3 weeks afterwards getting from thence to San Bias, a distauce of only 70 miles.
There is, however, reason to believe that tho vessel was badly handled.

It would bo useless to give any more detailed account of tliis passage than there will
be seen in the precodiug remarks. We generally got tlie sea breczo aliout noon, with
which we laid up for a short time W.N.W. , and then broke off to N.W., and so to the
northward, towards the end of the breeze, as we approaclied tho coast. We generally
stood in within a couple of miles, and sometimes nearer, and sounded in from 15 to 25
fathoms. If the breeze continued after sunset, we made short tacks, in order to
preserve our vicinity to the land, to be ready for the night wind. With this we
generally lay off S.W., sometimes W.S.W. and W., but only for a short time. After
passing latitude 18°, the coast trended more to the northward, aud a much larger leg
was made on the port tack, before we were obliged to go about. As wo approached
cape Corriontes, in latitude 20°, tho land winds became moro northerly, and the sea
breezes more westerly : bo that, as the coast also trended off to the northward, a more
rapid advance was made.
. During our stay at San Blaa, from the 28tb of March to the ICth of June, we had

APPENDIX.

417

light land-wlads every night, and a moderately fresh hreeze from west every day, with
the thermometer always above 80°.

Towards the end of the period, the sky, which had been heretofore clear, became
overcast ; the weather lost its former serene character, becoming dark and unsettled ;
and, on the 1st of June, the periodical rains set in with great violence, accompanied
by thander and lightning, and fresh winds from due south. This was nearly a fort-
night earlier than the average period. The heat and closeness of tlie weather in-
creased greatly after the rains set in ; but although our men were much exposed, no
sickness ensued, excepting a few cases of highly inflammatory fever. Tho town was
almost completely deserted when we came away ; the inhabitants having, as usual,
fled to Topic and other inland towns, to avoid the discomfort and sickness which
accompany the rains.

As soon as the rains subside, in the latter end of October, or beginning of November,
the people retarn, although that is the period described as being most unhealthy, when
the ground is still moist, and the heat of the sun not materially abated."

The remarks that follow are by Commander G. B. Hamilton, B.N.='<<
" The west coast of Mexico is considered highly dangerous in the bad season, viz.,
from June to 5th November, and all tho vessels obliged to remain in the neighbourhood
lie up, either in the secure harbour of Guaymas, at Pichilinque, or in the bay of La
Paz, all in the gulf of California.

The hurricanes that occasionally visit this coast are so much dreaded, that in the
months of July, August, September, and October, the ports are deserted, and trade
ceases. I believe the Frolic is the first vessel of any nation, whether men-of-war or
merchant-ship, that ever remained the whole bad season on the coast, — and, that off
the two most dangerous ports, viz., San Bias and Mazatlan. I shall therefore give all
the information I can, relative to the bad season.

The hurricane so much dreaded on this coast is called the Cordonazo de San
Francisco, a name given by the Spaniards on account of the hurricane prevailing about
the time of San Francisco's day, the 4th of October, the word cordonazo siguii'ying a
heavy lash with a rope or whip ; but from my own experience, and all I can learn,
these cordonazos may be expected any time from the middle of June to tho 5th of
November ; the worst ones that have been experienced of late years having occurred on
the 1st of November, although the weather usually clears up about the 20th of October,
and sometimes even sooner ; and as soon as the weather does begin to clear up, a ship
may, with common precautions, venture into the anchorages again, for this reason, — as
soon as the weather has cleared up, the change in the appearance of the sky and
weather will give ample warning of a coming hurricane, whereas, in the previoi four
mouths before the weather has cleared up, the thing that adds to the danger of this
coast is, that owing to the threatening, appearance of the sky every evening, and the
violent thunderstorms and squalls at night, accompanied by heavy rain and lightning,
the wind veering about, you are first led to believe that the hurricane is coming every
night, and latterly you see it is utterly hopeless to ^'oresoe tho coming of it, as, every
night, appearances were as bad as tlioy could be ; tiio barometer here being of little or
no use, and a trouieudous sea occasionally setting in. Thus the remaining olf this
coast during the hurricane season will cause great anxiety.

Tho squalls and gales usually commence about 8.F-., and quickly fly round to tho
southward and S. W. : you have gouonilly tiino to get to sea when it commences at S.E. ;
but, as I have before shown, you must go to sea every night, if you can, if you would
be free from the danger of tlio vord<>na::iiH coming on. But a tremendous swell
frequently sots in whilst tho weather is in this threatening state, and the wind still
light, which makes it impossible to get out. Moreover, if our boats happened to be
out and on shore when the swell came, it was impossible to hoist them in ; and for
this rcitson wo have frequently been obliged to send our boats from the ship, with thoir
crews, to be hauled up on shore, and remain there until the swell went down, that I
might be ready to slip and go to sea.

Baa the Nantical ilunntintf 1840.

■ a

418

APPENDIX.

It appears that the cordonazos come on an average once in 6 or 8 years, and we
experienced none daring our stay, althoagh we had a gale on the night of the 2lBt of
September. I was fortunately nnder way, and had plenty of room when it came on,
having stood out to sea on the evening of the 19th, on account of the weather being
bad, and fearing the full of the moon on the 20th.

It commenced about 9h. 80m. p.m., from S.E., flying ronnd to S.W. ; heavy rain,
thunder, and lightning, with a very heavy sea, reducing us to close reefed main-topsail,
and fore-staysail, washing away a boat, and obliging us to batten down. The squalls
came on very suddenly, the prevailing winds being in the bad season from S.E. to S.
and S.W., aud the heavy swell usually before and after the full and change of the moon.
The swell is such as is seen in the bay of Biscay in a heavy gale, and unfortunately
usually sets into the bays before the wind conies.

I therefore think that a ship caught at anchor off San Bias or Mazatlan by a
eordonazo, would have small chance of escape, especially off the former, as she would
either go on shore or go down at her anchors ; to slip and stand out the instant it
commences from S.E. k her best course.

The range of the thermometer for June was 77° to 86° ; July, 80° to, 87° ; August,
81" to 89° ; September, 88° to 92° ; October, 88° to 90°.

The barometer appeared to be of little service, usually remaining at 80 inches ;
seldom varying above a tenth, except during a heavy squall, when it rose considerably.

Our anchorage off San Bias during the bad season was usually in 12^ fathoms, soft
mud, — Piedra del Mar, N. 58° W. ; Piedra de Tierra just open southward of the bluff
to the southward of San Bias river, N. 47° E. ; point off wateringplace, N. 72° E.

Off Mazatlan, during the same season, in 28 fathoms, soft mud ; centre of Greston
isle, N. 13° E. ; north-west extreme of North Venado isle, N. 28° W. ; southernmost
rook on south side of Mazatlan, N. 80° E. ; smiill black rock nearly covered, N. 28° E.

I should not recommend a ship to lay closer than this, which is the best berth to get
out from, ia case of bad weather.

Excellent biscuit can be procured at Gnaymas, at a vei7 moderate price ; and a most
superior spirit, not inferior to the best whiskey, called Tequella Mascul, can be procured
in any quantity at San Bias, at a very reasonable price, by applying to the consul at
Tepic.

After the 4th of November the coasting and other vessels again make their appear-
ance on the west coast of Mexico. San Bias is very sickly during the bad season.
Guaymas is healthy, although the thermometer stands there at the astonishing height
of 106° in July, August, aud September, and owing to the extreme dryness of the
atmosphere, ships receive much injury, by the wood opening. Furniture, apparently
well seasoned, there cracks aud falls in pieces.

On this coast there are some immense fish of the ray species. I caught one of them,
tad with difficulty hoisted one on board ; it measured 19 feet in breadth across the
back, the mouth was 3 feet 5 inches wide, and the flesh was 8 feet 6 inches deep
in the centre. I had no means of ascertaining the weight, but found I could not lift
it with the yard tackles and 60 men, it requiring 180 meu, with the heaviest purchases
in the ship, to hoist it in.

These fish arc couimuu on the west coast of Mexico and Gulf of California, where
they are more dreaded by the pearl divers than sharks, or any other fish."

GENERAL REMARKS ON PASSAGES TO VARIOUS PORTS &c. Sco.

The following general sailing directions for the coast of California are by Commander
W. P. MacArthur, U.S. Navy (1850),

" Fr'>m March to October the prevailing wind along the coast, aud for many miles
i« the ostward, ia fresh from the north-west, being freshest from lOh. a.m. to 2h. p.m.,
and V'A unfrequuntiy failiug light during the night. During this season of the year,
the north-west wind blows with almost the regularity of a trade-^ind. During the
months of August and September, fogs prevftil to a great extent, and impede and
endanger navigation materially.

11.

APPENDIX.

419

Doring the greater part of the year above-mentioned, there were no heavy gales of
wind and little or no rain. ,

These winds caase a current of about half a knot per hoar along the coast, setting
to the southward.

From October to March the wind is variable, both with regard to velocity and
duration. During this season heavy gales occur from the south-east, south, and south-
west, generally accompanied by protracted rain, and causing a very heavy sea and swell
along the coast.

The current during this season sets generally to the northward, varying in velocity
with the strength of the wind.

These facts being known, it is now to be considered how directions should be given
which would be most useful to navigation.

Sailing vessels bound to the northward from Monterey, or any more northern port
during the summer season, should stand well off-shore, not too close hauled until, about
200 miles fi-om the land, when they will be beyond the influence of the southerly
current, and in a situation to take advantage of a slant of wind, which frequently occurs
from the W.N.W. They would do well not to »"^ ■ nach the land, unless favoured by
the winds so as to enable them to lay their c irse, or nearly so, until up with the
latitude of the destined port.

Steamers should follow the coast from point to point as nearly as possible, always
keeping within 15 miles of the land. They will by this means shorten the distance,
and frequently avoid the strong north-west wind, as they will often find it quite calm
close in with the shore, when there is a wind to seaward.

Vessels bound to the northward in the winter season should keep as close along the
land as practicable, and take every advantage of all southerly winds to make latitude.
They should always endeavour to make the land at least 20 or 30 miles to the south-
ward of the destined harbour.

If bound to the southward keep the coast in sight, and take advantage of either tack
upon which the most latitude may be made, always making tho land to the northward
of the port in summer, and to the southward in the winter season.

Bound to San Francisco or Monterey, use every opportunity to observe for latitude
and longitude, so as to know the vessel's position up to the latest moment, as fogs and
haze, preventing observations, prevail near tho land. Allow generally for a southerly
set of half a mile per hour, until within about 50 miles of laud ; after which, at times, it
is not appreciable. With these precautions vessels may steer boldly on, shaping a
coarse for the South Farallon, an islet about 250 feet high and a mile long, having 14
fathoms water, and good holding-ground on the S.E. side.

On approaching soundings the water becomes of a pale green colour. Soundings
may be had in 80 to 40 fatiioms, soft ooze, if approaching point Reyes. Below 40
fathoms is near the land, and the surf should be heard, if haze prevents the land from
being seen. If the soundings are 80 fathoms or under, and the sea smooth, anchor
with a kedge until the land becomes visible, so as to take a compass bearing, as the
position cannot otherwise be relied on.

If up with the South Farallon and night approaching, or there are appearances of
fog, anchor at the Farallon and wait till daylight, when the morning breeze will carry
the vessel to the bar, or pilot-ground.

Note — Notwithstanding the remarks as to the general fact of the winds prevailing in
the N.W. and N.N.W., quarter during the summer, it is proper to state that, in tho
month of June, 1850, the winds to the northward of Sau Francisco were lignt from
the southward and westward, with showers north of Mendocino for the whole mouth,
and the coasters ran to the northward with all steering sails.

It is, however, yet to be demonstrated whether June is a regular period of southerly

The following is by Mr. Masters, a gentleman in the Merchant service, who was for
gome time engaged in trade on the west ooast of Mexico, (1880.) " On the whole coast
of Mexico (on its Pacific side), from June to November, the weather is very
tempestuous, with rain, thunder, and lightning, and in many parts of it this season is
«1ro very siokly. On tho coast of O^jaca, and in the gulf of Tehuantepoc, the r»iny
leason generally oommenoes about the end of April or the beginning of May, from

B B 2

il'tf

I it I

;j'

420

APPENDIX.

I !

J I

vhieh time the roadsteads are very unsafe, nntil the bad weather breaks np, which
is in December, and on the sea of Guadalajara and Sonora in November.

The diy season is generally fine, the sky generally clear, and the winds moderate,
and rain falls very seldom. From our leaving Mazatlan, in January, to our sailing
from the coast of Oajaca, on the 1st of April, we had not even a sign of a shower.

A heavy fall of dew is almost a sure indication of a breeze from the northward. A
flaw hoars previous to its springing np, the air becomes sultry and parching, and
continues so during the time the " norther " is blowing. In the gulf of Tehuantepec,
particularly, the " norther " is very uncomfortable. A dismal haze hangs over the
land, and the wind comes off in gusts as if it had passed over a furnace, veering from
N.N.W. to N.N.E. On the western coast it is generally to the westward of North.

In the dry or summer season, a vessel bound to the northward of cape Corrientes
from Chili, or round cape Horn, should cross the Equator in long. 105° or between it
and 110°, and proceed due North if possible. The wind in her progress to the north-
ward will haul round ii'ora S.E. to E. and N.E., with a current setting in the same
direction as the wind is blowing, or nearly so, and at times at the rate of 1 mile per
hour. It is very probable that in standing with the starboard tack on board, that
westing will also be made. If a ship be on the port tack, and the wind supposed to be
N.N.E. , she would make a very bad landfall, taking the current into consideration,
even allowing her to be as far north as 15°, but by standing on as far as the latitude
of capo San Lucas, there is every chance, indeed almost a certainty, of having the
wind from the north-west, and at the same time the whole range of coast under the
lee. I stated this opinion to the captain of an American whaler who had been on
the coast several times ; he fully agreed with my observations, and said that the pre-
vailing wind on the coaf;t of California is north-west, and that the best way to make a
«hort passage to the Gulf of California or Mazatlan would be to keep clear of the coast
of Mexico, and stand well to the northward. In the winter, or rainy season, as the
wind is often from the south and east, a direct coarse would be most advisable.

In my passage to Mazatlan we did not stand to the northward, as I afterwards
found, far enough, although we did not tack to the eastward until we were in latiude
18J°, the wind in general being N.E. As we got to the eastward the wind gradually
hauled to the northward, when we made the coast of Mexico, about 40 miles to the
south-east of cnpe Conioutos, from which it took us three davs to get to the southward
of the Marias islands. When in-shore, the wind, when it blew fresh, was from the
N.W. ; and when moderate, from N. to N.N.E. In the morning we had an irregular
land-breeze, the currant setting constantly to the S.E. From the Marias islands we
were two days gutting to Mazatlan, with the wind as already stated.

It appears that in the Gulf of California, in the dry or summer season, the wind is
mostly from tho N.W., strong breezes, with a short chopping sea. The coasting
vessels always keep the California shore aboard in beating up the gulf.

The port of Guayraas is said to be the best on tho whole coast of Mexico. It is also
more healthy than any on tho southern part of the coast. Vessels in the rainy season
lay up here ; it is the only place, with the exception of San Bias, that can be considered
wfe, on this part of the coast.

Lieutenant S. Osbom says : —

" A vessol anxious to keep on the coast of Mexico or its neighbourhood, during the
bad season, cannot do better than run over to the bny of La Paz, on the west shore of
the Gulf of California, and but little to tho north of Mazatlan. This splendid harbour
is formed by tho main land of South California on the starboard hand going in, and a
long chain of islands with shallow passages between, on tho port hand. The most
eawtern island is Espiritu Santo, the north end of which lies in about lat. 24° 80' N.,
long. 110° 2'^' W., and bus a large rock due north of it, distant 5 miles.

Approaching this bay from Mazatlan, the island of Ceralbo will be first made, high
and mountainous, north end lat. 24° 28' N., long, of south end 10!)° 46' W, ; from it
Espiritu Bauto will be seen, bearing r^out W. by N. The bay is at least 80 milei
deep, and for the first 20 miles a deep bold shore on either hand, no bottom with 20
fathoms close to the islands. Large vesseL anohor under the island of Ban Jnan

ia&B

BB^i^MiiiiiB

APPENDIX.

431

Nepomezcino ; bnt small ones anchor within half a mile of the village of La Paz. Fish,
water, turtle, cheese, and fruits are to be obtained here ; and cattle, also, in the wet
season, when pasturage is to be found on the coast. Snakes are very numerous and
venomous.

A knowledge of the tides and currents in the neighbourhood of thi<3 port would be
very serviceable ; it has been much frequented by the Americans during their operations
against Mexico. A vessel bound to California could only have one object in making
the Mexican coast, en route, namely, that of commanicatiug with her owners, by
overland despatch through Mexico, and as that is a possible occurrence, I will give the
few following notes for general guidance.

A vessel making the passage northward from San Bias had better make nn in-shore
tack, until she reaches the latitude of, or sights cape San Lucas, as she will there get
the true wind, which blows almost without intermission along the line of coast from the
northward. A West, or may be south of West course will only be first made good, but
as the ofBng is obtained, the wind will be found to veer a little to the eastward. How-
ever, it will always be the object to make headway, and get out of the t>.'opiu without
any reference to the longitude, as a strong north-west wind will soon in lat. 25° ur 23'*
run off the distance, provided you have sufficient northing.

The attempt to beat up ia-shore amounts to perfect folly, if it does not deserve a
worse name, a strong current ai^compauying the wind ; and the latter must be taken
into consideration, when running in for your port with westerly winds.

Should a vessel, however, be bound to California direct, I would cross the Equator
in the Pacific ocean in about 100° W. long. Cross the N.E. trade with a topmast-
studdingsail set, and thus pass into the limit of the westerly winds, about BOO miles to
windward of the Sandwich islands, and once in them take good cnre to keep to the
northward of my port, for as yon approach the shore, the wind will draw round north,
and the current to the southward inci-ease.

San Francisco has only two drawbacks, that of a narrow entrance in an unsheltered
line of coast, where fogs are both sudden and dense, and the sudden manner in which
the rollers set in on the bar at the mouth. A merchantman, however, is not so likely
to miss his port when its being correctly made depends principally on knowing his
latitude.

The following extract from the remarks of H.M.S. Spy. Lieutenant-Commander
S. 0. Woolridge, as to Mazatlan and Muleje bays, Gulf of California, may prove in-
teresting, though there are in it many points stated, irrelevant to the present purpose : —

" Our passage from Callao to Mazatlan, of a few hours less than 26 days, ia con-
sidered exceedingly good ; indeed, one of the best ever made. As wo drew in-shore,
I found the current afl'ected by the wind. With northerly winds, the current set to
southward, and vice versa. We remained at Mazaolan 10 days, during which time tho
weather was, upon the whole, fine. At night we had occasionally strong sc|ualls,
with rain.

I arrived at Guaymas on the 21st, in four days from Mazatlan. During this passage,
we experienced ttrong currents running to the N.W., from 1 to li iiiilca an hour.
They were much influenced by the wind, which, from tho 10th to tlio 21t;t, was south-
easterly and southerly. Current also runs with more foixe on tho eastoiu shore, which
side we kept.

Capo Haro can be easily distinguished by the Tetas, or Paps, wliich rescmblo the
teats of a goat ; they are to the northward. The island of Sau Pedro Nolasco is just
visible from the deck, to tho N.W. T!io land of the Yagui shore is hi^Jh and peaked ;
keeping this broad on your starboard bow, steer to the northward of a deep bay where
the land breaks off, and you will soon perceive the island of Ptij.iros, which is at the
entrance, or facing Guaymas. The water is deep all along tho island of I\!Jaros, that
is to say 4 fathoms, so close as to throw a biscuit on shove.

A large ship will have to anchor soon after passing Piijaros ; that is, abreast the
Morro, in 6 fathoms. A small ship can anchor inside tho isles of Ardilla and Almagre,
and iu 4 and B^ fathoms, just inside them ; and in 8 fathoms, as far in as tho point

ii^l

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422

APPENDIX.

off the towD. You may go close to either of the isles Ardilla ori Almagre, in 8 add
8^ fathoms.

Fresh heef and vegetables are to be obtained here, bat the prioe depends greatly on
the season of the year. Water is very difficult to b j got ; it is to be obtained by
sending aboat 4 miles for it, or it can be pnrohased . bat owing to its having to be
brought in on mules or in oarts, the price is very high. I wanted 12 tons, which I
found could not be obtained for less than $30, which Would be nearly ten shillings a
ton : I therefore weighed, August 10th, and proceeded to Muleje bay.

Conception point is difficult to make out, when you have about a dozen of the
same kind within a few miles of each other. However, the best marks I can give are
some table-land which is very remarkable, and is rather to the right of Muleje village.
Keep this aboat two points on your starboard bow, and yon may stand in, until yoa
discover some sandy islets which are off a point called Funta San Ynes. When yoa
are east and west with them, yoa will be distant from them about 8 miles. After
passing these islets, steer S. and S.S.W., until you make out the Pyranfid rock, spoken
of by Captain Hamilton. This rock is named Sombrerito, or Little Hat. I think it
bad to call it Pyramid rock, as there is a point which, in standing in, may be easily
mistaken for it, resembling also a pyramid ; but the rock is a pyramid fixed on a round
pedestal like a fort. Another good way of making out this place is, when the wind is
fair, to keep Tortnga island about 20 miles (?) distant, bearing about N.W., and steer
in S.E., till yon make out the sandy islets, and proceed as above. There is a passage
between the islets aud the main land for small vessels, but, though very inviting, should
not be attempted. I tried it, but getting into 2^^ fathoms, I put about as quick as
possible. My anchorage marks in Muleje bay were as follow, in 5 fathoms : — Point
Conception, N. 84° E. ; Tortuga isle, N. 4° W.; Lobos isle, N. 2° E. ; Sombrerito,
S. 67° W. (Pyramid rock of Captain Hamilton) ; Equipalito, S. 22° W. (Rock on
south side of entrance to the river) ; and Pnnta San Ynes, N. 10° W.

This is very close in, but I wished to la^jilitate the watering ; aboat half a mile
farther to the northward, in 8 fathoms, is a very good berth. In going into the bay
after making out the Sombrerito, if you wish to go close in, take care not to bring the
Sombrerito at all on your starboard bow ; that is, do not open the mouth of the river,
as, by sounding, I discovered a rock with only one fathom on it ; it is on a sand-bank
with 8 fathoms all round it, about three-quarters of a mile from the shore ; but the
rock itself has only one fathom. It lies with the entrance of the river open, directly
between the Sombrerito and the Equipalito rocks, distant from half to one mile off
shore.

The report of the facility of watering is very delusive and uncertain. In the first
place I cannot think it possible to water out of the river, as it is salt for at least 2 or 2^
miles, and a great portion of the time, boats could not possibly get up so far. In
going up tho river, in boats, keep close to the Sombrerito, and keep the starboard
shore on board, till yon are one or one and a quarter miles up the river, when you will
encounter a sand-bank in tho centre of the river, and must keep over on the port shore
to clear it. Abreast this sand-bank is the liancho. At the time I visited this place,
in August, owing to the dryness of the season, and the want of fodder, there was no
beef or vegetables to be procured.

The bay is open to north-cast winds and there is no shelter from the sea, which
rolls in heavily ; but with all other winds I think any man-of-war could get out, if she
did not leave it too late, till the sea was too heavy, as there is plenty of room for beating.

The passage from Guaymas to Mnleje bay can be easily done in 20 hours. I left
Muleje again on the 14th, and arrived at Guaymas on the 16th, being 86 hours. On
the 26th of August I sailed from Guaymas for Mazatlan, where I arrived on the 8rd
of September, in eight days. This, at this season of the year is considered very fair,
as south-easterly winds and calms prevail. I kept over, by advice, on the western
shore, and passed inside of Catalina island ; but I think tho more you can keep in
mid-channel the bettor. We experienced little or no currents, but the wind was very
light, and the weather fine all the way.

On the 80th and 81st of August we had an easterly current, about 14m. per diem.
We anchored off Mazatlan, about 4 miles off Greston, on the following bearings, 28

^sm

'"^**'"""

masaaseOBmmMm

APPENDIX.

4»

fathoms water :—Cre8ton island, N.N.E. i E. ; Rock, N.E. ^ E. ; Venado, N.N.W. ;
and Town, N. by E. ^ E. This is a very good berth for a large ship like the Constance,
bat on the 8th I went about 1^ miles farther in, with the following bcarin^rs, in 22
fathoms water :— Creston, N.N.E. i E. ; Town, N. by E. i E. ; and Rock, N.E. i E.
This is a very good berth for a small vessel, and quite far enough off for safely, and
more convenient when you have occasionally to communicate with the shore, with only
one boat fit for the purpose. Here I lay till the 28rd of September : during the whole
time we experienced light winds and generally fine weather. The nights were always
and invariably attended with heavy thunder, and very vivid lightning, and generally
heavy rain with an occasional squall.

On the morning of the 19th we experienced a very heavy squall, which lasted for
about two or three hours, and the water regularly boiling, which, for the time, made
me imagine that it was the commencement of a very heavy cordonazo : but in four
hours, it had passed off, and was quite fine. As far as I could judge, the weather was
not worse than you would meet with anywhere at certain seasons, but the rolling your
boats into the water every now and then is the natural consequence of being anchored
8 or 4 miles off the land, in the open sea where the current at times keeps the ship
swung across the wind.

On the 28rd, the barometer being very low all day, the moon being near the full,
and the sun near the Equinox, it was deemed advisable to weigh, but we experienced
nothing more than very terrific lightning and thunder, with heavy rain.

On the 26th, I weighed for Guaymas again. Daring this passage, of seven days,
we had very light winds, and chiefly from the north-west.

On the 2nd October, we experienced a very heavy long rolling swell, fi'om the south-
east, which lasted two days. It was subsequently accounted fur by being informed that
on that dpy, at Mazatlan and San Bias, it blew a very heavy gale of wind : but in the
gulf we had no wind but only the swell.

We arrived on the 4th of October, and sailed on the 6th for Mazatlan, where we
arrived on the 18th, in seven days. During most of this passage, the winds wore very
light and variable, and I kept about the mid-channel. The last three days though the
wind was from south-east and south-west, the current ran to the southward, from half
a mile an hour. I anchored outside Creston, about 2 miles at first, but reqniriiig about
28 tons of water, and seeing two merchant-ships inside, I weighed on the 16th, and
ran in also.

Anchorage marks :— Town, N. by W. | W. ; Creston, N.W. by W. i^ W. ; Outer
rock, S. i E. At this season it is better not to anchor nearer Creston, as in case of
blowing you have room to drag."

PASSAGES TO AND FROM VARIOUS PORTS IN THE PACIFIC.

The following remarks on passages to and from various ports on the coast of western
America, and in the Pacific, are by Captain Beechey, R.N. : —

" KOTZBBUB 80UBn> TO OAiiiFOBNiA. — These passages were made from October
14th to 7th November, 1826, and October 6th to 29th 1827, when north-westerly
winds prevail, and consequently at a favourable time for getting to the southward.
In both years they occupied exactly 2:) days ; and it is further remarkable, that in
each, the Aleutian islands were passed on the ninth day after oar dc]jarture. The
route pursued by the Blossom was to the westward of King island, and between St.
Lawrence island and the mainland of America, and thence, within sight of St. Paul
and St. George islands, to the strait of Ounimak.

To the eastward of King island the soundings are very irregular, varying from 9 to
6 fathoms ; and as at the season above mentioned the weather appears to be goner<>.lly
bad, it is advisable to go to the westward of the island, where the water is deep.
Between St. Lawrence island and the continent of America there is a bank with 11
fathoms water upon it. If, on approaching it in foggy weather, it be doubtful, from
the shoaling of the water, whether it be not the island that is the occasion of the
decrease of soondings, haul over to the American shore, and the water will deepen.

1.1

414

APPENDIX.

To the southward of St. Lawrence it is neossary only to mention the islands of St.
Paul and St. George, which apparently may bo safely approached within 4 or 6 miles ;
hut I could not get near them in either year to ascertaiu what dangers lie close o£f the
shore.

I should recommend the passage being always made to the eastward of these islands,
as between them and Ounimak there is a strong current from Bristol bay, which in
1B27 drifted the Blossom 85 miles to the S.W. in the course of the day. The strait
of Onnimak, lying between the islands of Ounimak and Ougamok, appears at present
to be the safest opening to the Pacific from Kamtchatka sea. The Aleutian islands
in the autumn appear to be enveloped in fog about half-way down, and to have a region
of mist lying to windward of the archipelago, which makes it necessary for a ship to
be certain of her position, before she attempts any of the channels as she might be led
down 60 close upon the land in the fog, that she would not have rinm to rectify a
mistake, should she unhappily incur any, which is very likely to happen, from the
irregularity and velocity of the currents about the islands. Under these circumstances
I should recommend making the north-west end of Ounimak, and afterwards keeping
along the coast of that island to the southward. As this island lies 40 miles to the
northward of the other islands of the chain, Oumnak excepted, which is three degrees
to the westward, it cannot be mistaken, unless the reckoning of the ship is very in^
correct indeed. And by so doing, in the event of not liking to attempt the passage, a
vessel will still be far enough to windward, supposing the breeze to be from the north-
ward, to weather the other islands of the chain ; and if from the westward, she may
reach into Bristol bay.

We had no opportunity of seeing the summits of either Ounimak or Ounalashka,
which, when clear, are good guides for the strait; but when the low land of the former
can be seen, the south.west point of Ounimak may be known by a pointed rock situated
near the base of a remarkable wedge-shaped cliff, conspicuous from the northward and
north-westward. The narrowest part of the strait is between this rock and Ougamok
island, and the distance exactly 9^ miles, in a S. 1° 80' E. (true) direction. In a
line between these, at the distance of 4 miles from the rock, there are soundings io
80 fathoms, and I understand that if necessai7 there is anchorage close under Ounimak.

Ougamok island is about 4 miles in length, and may be known by a remarkable peak
near its N.E, extremity, in lat. 54° 16' 52" N., long. 164° 47' 6" W.

From the Aleutian islands to San Francisco we steered nearly a direct course, with
winds genei-ally from N.W. and W., aud made point Reyes on the 8rd November. In
this passage the currents were variable. From Behring strait to the Aleutian islands
they prevailed to the westward, nnd near the islands ran strong, but afterwards they
continued between S.K. and S.W. On our arrival off California, the whole amount,
in 1820, was S. 89° W., 64 miles ; and in 1827, S. 26° W., 40 miles.

znonTEBE'r to oahu, banswich i8i.AnDS. — This passage (January 5th to
25th, 1827,) was begun at a period when the north-west and westerly winds are pro-
verbially prevalent upon the coast of Oregon, and extend a considerable distance to the
westward.

We sailed from the bay of Monterey on the 6th of January, and immediately took a
northerly wind, which carried us into the trades; and we arrived off Maui on the
twentieth day. Our passage might have been considerably shorter, had we not taken
a circuitous route in search of some islands reported to lie to the southward, and had
Bail been carried throughout the 24 hours, instead of hauling to the wind as soon as it
was dusk, to maintain our position during the night, that nothing might be passed
unseen within the limit of our horizon.

As we left the extra-tropical latitudes, the atmosphere gradually became more hazy
and humid, the clouds increased, nnd in 18° N. we had some showers of rain. On the
18th, in lat. 16" 18' N., long. 186° W., we had a very strong trade at N.E., with
Equally weather, and a long cross. sea from the westward, which was afterwards found
to be the effect of a gale of wind in the parallel of 21° N. ; but which did not reach ns.

There was very little current in this passage ; this little generally ran to the sonth*
ward and westward, aud averaged 8-6 miles a day. The barometer, though so far
entered in the tropical latitudes, was perceptibly affected by the changes of we»tber,
bat jaaintai&ed its horary oscillations.

SSi

am^soBa

APPENDIX.

42o

On my arrival I fottnd that from the 15th to the 2l8t there hud heen very strong
gales from the westward at Oahu, and from S.W. at Hawaii. This was, no doubt,
the cause of the high cross sea we experienced from the 18th to the 2Brd. I found
also that the Harbinger, an American brig which quitted Monterey nine days after the
Blossom, was obliged to lie-to for three days, from the 20th to 23rd January, in a
strong gale from the S.W. She had steered a direct course from the Sandwich islands,
in which she experienced very variable winds, and, on the whole, had bad weather,
and was only one day less performing the passage than ourselves ; whence I think it
foir to conclude that nothing is lost by running well into the trade. During the winter
season, I should recommend ships gaining tbf 17th parallel before they shaped a
direct course for the islands. This seems to me to be the best mode to ensure a good
passage and fine weather.

BAN ra&ifCZBOO to BAIT BI.AS (MBXZOO). — We found no difficulty (December
6th to 21st) in getting to the southward, the prevailing wind at this season being from
the N.W. It is advisable, however, to stand about 40 or 50 leagues off the coast, to
avoid interruptions from variable winds, which occur near the land. These winds are
in general taken advantage of by vessels bound in the opposite direction to that of our
present course.

The weather throughout this passage was remarkably fine. The wind was from
W.N.W. to N.N.E., until we made cape San Lucas, when it veered to E.N.E., and
obliged us to pass between the Marias islands. This route occasioned the loss of a
day, and I should advise any vessel making the passage to close the land to the north-
ward of cape San Lucas, provided the wind is in the north-east quarter; as in addition
to the inconvenience which a shift of wind to the E. would occasion, there is another
arising from a strong current, which generally sets out of the Gulf of California.
From the cape steer for Isabel island, and thence for Piedra del Mar.

Between 83° N. and cape San Lucas we found a current to the westward, and from
the cape to the Marias islands to the southward. The whole efi'ect of current from
San Francisco to these islands was S. 58° W., 80 miles.

SAH BLAB to AaArut.co and VAZ.FARAIBO. — At this BoasoD (March 8th to
May 1st, 1828) north-westerly winds prevail upon the coast between San Bias »nd
Acapulco, inclining towards the land in the day, and to the sea at night. We passed
4 miles to westward of Corventena (a small rock situated N.W. by N., 19 miles, from
cape Corrientes,) without having soundings in 80 fathoms. On the 10th were within
sight of the volcano of Colima, 12,003 feet above the sea, and on the 18th anchored
at Acapulco.

At San Bias we heard various opinions upon the best route from Acapulco to Val-
paraiso, some being in favour of a passage to the eastward of the Galapagos, by keeping
along the land, and carrying the N.W. wind, and others to the westward, by steering
at once out to sea. We adopted the latter mode of proceeding; and after light and
variable winds, principally from the eastward, crossed the Equator in 99° 40' W. on
the eleventh day of our passage, about two degrees more to the westward than was
intended.

After two days' unsettled weather and hard showers of rain we got the S.E. trade in
8° S. latitude. It was at first held to the soutj^ward, but, as we proceeded, veered
gradually to the eastward, and obliged us to make a long sweep, in which we went as
far to the westward as 108°, and having brought us into 23° S. and 106° W. it left us.
We had afterwards variable winds and squally weather, and found some difficulty in
approaching our destination. At this season very unsettled weather prevails on the
coast of Chili, and storms and heavy rains from the northward are by no means un-
frequent. It appears to me to be advisable at this period to steer direct for the port,
if possible, and to disregard the chances of winds and of currents near the land. The
earrents in the first part of this passage ran about 7 miles a day to the eastward, but
from 8° N. and 98° W. to 19° 8. and 108° W. they flowed in a S. 88° W. direction,
at the average rate of about 28 miles per day, and on our arrival at Valparaiso they
bad drifted the ship S. 81° W., 401 miles, or at the average rate of 11^ miles a day.

On account of these strong currents it is desirable to cross the Equator well to the
eastward, in about longitude 96° or 97° W., and to pass the latitades in which they
prevail aa quiokly aa possible, by keeping clean fall."

!'l

426

APPENDIX.

FBAiraxsoo TO nvu. — The following remarks are by Manry and are ex-
tracted from an article on the sabject in the Mercantile Marine Magazine, 1864 : —

" The best route from California to the gaano islands of Peru, is the track from
California to the United States, until the belt of the S.£. trade winds be crossed ; or
nntil they will allow the guano bound vessel to lay up for her port. Though the guano
islands are in 12° S., vessels bound to them from California will frequently have to go
as far south as B5° to 40°, or even farther, before they can lay up for them.

When a vessel, therefore, bound for Pern, comes out of San Francisco, her best
course is to run down for the Equator, about its intersection with the meridian of 116°
to 120° (126° is not too fur) and with topmast studding-sail set, to stand on to the
southward until'the wind hauls so as to allow her to lay up for her port ; or, when the
wind fails so to haul, she should keep on south across the calm-belt of Capricorn, and
with the west wind on the polar side of these calms, run down easting enough, so that
when she returns to the S.E. trades, they will lead her into port.

The usual passage from California to these islands now occupies from 66 to 70dayb;
by the route here recommended, it should not be so long. The way is plain ; dash
down from California, not caring to make easting until the winds are &ir for Callao.
Every homeward bound vessel from California crosses the track of the guano traders
from Australia.

The Comet, to where she crossed it (lat. 49° S., long, 107° W.), had 28 days ; and
from this crossing (which is out of the route from San Francisco to Callao) the guano
traders from Australia Lave usually from 20 to 26 days to Callao.

The passage from San Francisco to the guano islands of Peru ought not, on the
average, to occupy more than 66 days."

x>ira7iAin> to vahcowxb xsZiAirD. — The following remarks are by Captain
J. F. Trivett late of the Hudson Bay Company's service, and for some time Examiner
in Navigation to the Local Marine Board at the port of London : —

"The colonies of British Columbia and Vancouver island, although so little known
or appreciated at present, are destined at no distant period to become very important
possessions of Great Britain ; the former containing all the elements necessary for the
formation of a Western Canada, with considerable miners* wealth — as gold, stiver, &o.;
and the latter, in addition to its inexhaustible mines of tirie coal, not only possesses
valuable fisheries, but its fine harbours are available at all ti;iies for ships of the largest
size, and in the interior, hemp is found growing wl(\, ?'ltich having been tested in
England has been pronounced equal to that of Bussi.4.

One great drawback in connection with these colonies has been the length of a
voyage from England. May not tbi^ be amended — I shall endeavour to shew that
it can.

The passages from Engi'and to Vancouver island have hitherto been very long, I
admit ; but yet, if we take th<^ average of those passages it will be found not to exceed
that of the passages from England to Calcutta and to Australia, when the navigation
to those places was as little known as tiic proper route to Vancouver island appears to
be at present. I am convinced that a stout; ship, of good sailing qualities, could, on
the average, make her passage from England to Vancouver island under 120 days.

Having made many voyages to that part of the world, my present object is to give
my experience as to the best route to be adopted in making a passage from England to
Vancouver island.

Of that part from the Channel to the Equator — the old beaten track — nothing need
be told ; however for the information of those who may not have seen Commander
Maury's valuable "Sailing directions," I would say — do not bother yourself about
where you are to cross the Equator providing you do not go to the westward of 81°;
but, of course, no roan would choose such a leewnrdly position if he could avoid it. I
have twice crossed in 81°, and found no difficulty in weathering cape San Kuque ; and
I have frequently passed to leeward of Fernando Noronha. — Should you be driven to
the westward after crossing the line, take every advantage of the shiltB of wind, and
stand to the eastward occasionally, so as to keep capo San Boque on a certain bearing,
and do not fall to leeward of it. Maury cites instances of Amerioan ships orossiog th«

APPENDIX.

427

line in 85* west, and even then weathering cape San Koqne without much difficulty.
I consider abips from England should cross the line between 27° uud Bl° W. I have
not crossed east of 27° W. for some years.

After passing cape San Agostinbo, I would keep about 150 to 180 miles from the
outline of the 13razil coast, endeavouring to cross the southern tropic in about B0° W ;
then steer in a direct course to pass 40° S., in about 56° W. If, in the neighbourhood
of the river Plate, about the full or change of the moon, strong S.E. breezes may be
expected : I have generally carried double reefs, and made good runs with them ; off
the river Plate the water is generally discoloured a considerable distance seaward ; I
have obtained soundings in 40° 24' S., 56° 81' W. — 70 fathoms fine sand ; from the
above position I would endeavour to make the land about Valdes peninsula, or cape
Dos Bahias, — if I could do so without loss of time; I consider those places better than
cape Tres Puntas or cape Blanco, as dangers exist in the vicinity of the last named
position and extend some distance from the land. After passing cape Blanco, I %teer
a true South course for cape San Diego or to windward of it.

I consider this to be aa important part of the passage ; and a great improvement od
the old route — outside or east of the Falklands ; along the inner route you frequently
meet with heavy breezes from off the land, which of course, will induce you to keep in
with the land to obtain the benefit of the smooth water, and at such times (under close
reefs and reefed courses), I have made good days ta the southward ; when by the old
route, outside the Falklands, I should have been laying-to, drifting to the N.E.

No danger exists between the Falklands and the main, bat a bank of soundings is
laid down on the charts, by which, in thick weather, it is useful to test your reckoning..
American ships frequently make cape Penas, Tierra del Fuego, which I thiiik not un-
advisable, although I have never done so myself.

If the wind, weather, and daylight serve, always go through the strait of Le Mairo'.
In October 185G, I entered the sirait about noon, with a fresh N.W. breeze, kept
about 5 miles distant from the Fuegian shore, and at 2*80 p.m. was clear of the strait.
With a N.W. wind keep well out from the high land of cape Good Success, as you are
likely to get becalmed under its lee, — at least, such was my case, as also that of a
ship in company — both bad to run out S.E. to get the true breeze. I have twice
attempted the strait since that voyage, but on each occasion was driven back by strong
southerly winds. Daring my last voyage I lay-to very comfortably under the Ise of
Staten island during a heavy gale from S.W. which lasted 80 hours. Bar. 28*77.

There is no danger to apprehend in approaching the east coast of Patagonia, from
strong easterly winds, as Captain Symley and American Captains engaged in the
sealing trade can testify. Captain Symley has passed 22 years of his life between
south Shetland and the river Plate, and for 6 years was never to the rcvlhward of
40° S. ; during all that time he never knew the wind to liow heavy, directly on the
shore, for 12 hours continuously.

The prevailing winds on the east coast of Patagonia are West and N.W. In
steering from the east end of Staten island towards cape Horn, a strong indraught
from the southward towards the strait of Le Maire (to N.N.E.) should be guarded
against.

When up with cape Horn, little is required to be said, beyond what is evident to
the sense of every navigator — make westing — whatever you do — make westing — but to
make it, there lies the rub ; to do so, or to endeavour to do so, very often tries both
ship and crew severely, yet sometimes I have been lucky enough to get round this
abominable cape with little or no trouble. I see no necessity to go so far south as
some recommend ; I would at all times lay my ship upon that tack which makes the
most westing — endeavouring at the same time to maintain a sufficient offing to make
good use of a S.W. wind.

Much difference of opinion exists as to the utility of the barometer in this part of
the world, some Captains go so far as to say a ship is better without one ; for my own
part I have never seen the mercury fall greatly without a change following it — with
wind, rain, or snow ; yet after the change I have known the mercury to remain low,
ranging about 28*50 for several days with very fine weather, and at such times have
generaUy had more wind after the mercury had commenced rising.

>ii

I If

428

APPENDIX.

r T ■

In no part of tho world that I am acquainted with (and I bare been pretty ilrell all
over it) is such constant attention to the appearance or signs of the weather reqnisite
as in the neighbourhood of cape Horn. I have frequently been compelled to take in
sail as quick as possible — from all sail to a close reefed main topsail — :and glad to get
that in also.

After baring rounded the Horn, and attained the longitude of 80° W., it is adTisabl*
to steer about W.N.W., if the wind will allow yon, for the purpose of making your
westing where the degrees are short ; yon can afitrwards steer more northerly in the
8.E. trades, and bring those winds more on the beam ; but it is seldom that such ft
westerly course can be steered in this locality, for the prevalent winds are from the
N.W. quarter, and yon are frequently compelled to make easting with your northing.
It is no uncommon occurrence to make the island of Juan Fernandez, — indeed, ships
may be driven to the eastward of it by the continuance of westerly winds. I oncd
Earned the westerly winds as far north as San Felix island.

Having obtained the S. E. trades, which you will usually do about the sonthem
tropic, steer to cross the Equator in longitude 118° W.

Here again, the Neiv Route, if I may be allowed the term, differs ftom what I shall
call the Old Route. Ships formerly used to cross the equator in about 104° W., and
frequently used to make the Clipperton rook. By thus crossing the Equator too far to
the eastward, yon are more likely to meet with calms, rains, squalls, and the usual
equinoctial doldrums ; and are less likely to meet the N.E. trades until well north — in
the summer time, probably .aot have them at all, and a very long passage may be the
result. From the researches of Commander Maury we have the passages of 446 vessels
from cape Horn to California, with the longitude of their crossing the Equator, and the
result is that the best passages are made by those ships which cross the Equator in
longitude 115° to 120° W. ; the principal cause of this being that they meet with less
calms, and get the N.E. trades sooner than those ships do which cross further to the east.

Having got the N.E. trades, which you do generally in about the parallel of 7° N.,
it will be better to make a fair wind of them ; at least, endeavour to cross the northern
tropic in longitude 184° W. — nv>t to the eastward of that ; as a general rule, the farther
you are from the coast of North America, the more likely yon are to have a buh N.E.
trade.

In January 1850, 1 crossed the northern tropic in the Hadson Bay Company's steaA
vessel (under sail alone) in long. 127° W., the winds gradually failing, until at length
it fell quite calm, when we got up steam : about the same time the Honourable
Company's ship Princess Bnyal, 7° farther to the westward, had a fresh N.E. wind,
which she carried as far as 4T N., showing the advantage to be gained by keeping
well to the westward.

After losing tho N.E. trades, and having got through the belt of calms which some-
times exists outside their northern border, N.W. winds are generally met with ; my
plan is to get cape Clnssot on a N.E. bearing ns soon as possible, and then steer for it,
because N.W. and S.E. winds being very common about tha entrance of the strait of
Juan do Fuca, both those winds will be fair.

Approaching the entrance of the strait in tho night, or in thick weather, a ship
fihould be certain of her latit'ule ; and it is safer to bo in error to the northward than
to the southward. The coast of America south of cape Classet is dangerous to approach,
in thick weather, as rocks lie soiao distance off tho shore. I have remarked, by the
colour of the water, that a bank of souudin<:;s appears to exist off the entrance to
Barclay sound, Vancouver island ; but tho »vater darkens again in colour as you proceed
eastward ; the south coast of Vancouver island should be avoided when there are light
winds : as, should it fall calm, you will bo at the mercy of th' heavy swell almost
always sotting on the shore ; and rendering it at times ditbonlt to get off tho coast.
I once narrowly escaped destruction about honilhi point by drifting close to the shore
during light bailing winds from the southward. I will add, you soon lose sight of the
light on 'iutoosh island (as yon proceed up the strait) by the projecting land about
Nee-ah bay. Tho prominent and pnijocting land about Callam bay and point Pillar is
in each case a very good mark to distinguish your whereabouts during almost any night
a you keep your course along the southern shore, which is generally thought to be^ Uii

APPENDIX.

429

tin
get

nfest. The light on the Baee rocks is an excellent one, and renders the navigation
of that part comparatively easy. A navigator visiting these regicus should provide
himself with the small charts of the several anchorages about the strait, such as Nee-ah
bay, port San Juan, Sooke inlet, fiecher end Pedder bays, &c., as well as the charts of
the various anchorages in the neighbourhood of cape Horn.

Ships from sea bound ap the strait of ISan Jaam de Fuca should steer for the light
on Tatoosh island at the entrance of the strait, and in doing so the latitude at least
should he correctly known ; but as in the winter time, in this climate, the sun may be
oloaded for many days consecutively, it will be necessary to embrace every opportunity
of ascertaining the latitude by sidereal observations, and by double altitudes of the sun
when visible ; it is safer to be in error to the northward, than to the southward — the
coast of Vancouver island being comparatively bold to approach, nud the high land in
the neighbourhood of Barclay sound, a little westward of the entrance of the strait, is
visible at a great distance, even in the night, if it be clear.

When the wind from the southward or S.W., you may expect to feel the influence of
A set to the northward, as you approach the coast.

With light S.fj. or easterly winds, do not approach the Vancouver island shore, when
outside the strait : those winds are very likely to leave you becalmed near the land,
and at the mercy of the heavy swell which is almost always found setting on to the
shore — which 1 once painfully experienced.

Having made out the entrance, pass the lighthouse on Tatoosh island at a safe
distance, say 8 mi'ss, and proceed up the strait, keeping the southern shore on board,
and in doing so, the light will soon be lost sight of, by the projecting land about
Nee-ah bay. The bay is easily distinguished, and although it will afford good anchorage
in case of necessity, it had better be avoided by sailing ships of large size, as vessels
have been driven on the surrounding reefs by the tide, when getting under way, and
before any command of them could be obtained. The Americans geueruUy avoid it.

When abreast of Nee-ah bay, the deep iudeutatiou on the coast of Vancouver island
which forms port San Juan will be plainly visible, even in a dark night.

As yon proceed up the strait, keeping about 3 miles distant from the line of the
southern shore, the projecting land forming the east point of Callam bay is a good
landmark in the night. Callaiu bay is jaid to afibrd shelter during strong easterly winds.

From above Slip point, .he point alluded to in the preceding paragraph, the coast is
bold and may he approa. hed with safety as far as point Pillar, which is another
remarkable landmark, and serves the mariner to distinguish his position even in a dark
night ; when seen from the eastward during the night, it appears like a little round
island, or headland, jut i.ing out into the strait.

^hen abreast of point Pillar, from a ship's topsail-yard, or from the height of 60
feet, in a clear night, the light on the Race rocks will be visible distant about 28 miles ;
and from an ordinary ship's deck, or 10 feet, it will be visible at about 18 miles, a
brilliant /tf^Atn^ light.

Having once sighted the Race rock light, do not lose it by standing over to the north
shore, and shutting it in by Beechey head.

When abreast of Sooke inlet the tide rips and eddies will begin to be felt. These
eddies sometimes take charge of a ship in light winds and turn her round against helm
ond sails, for which reason ships should bo careful to keep out of tho stream of tide of
tlie Race rocks. With light winds, vessob have been carried through the Race channel
by the force of the tidal current, and others, not so fortunate — the Naniwtte, a recent
case for example — was driven on thn rocks and sunk in about 4 fathoms. Ships,
therefore, unless with a commanding breeze, should keep well out from the Race rocks.

With a commanding breeze from tho westward, round tho lighthouse at the distance
of about li or 2 miles, and if bound to Victoria or Esquimalt, in the day time nteer
direct for your port, or to windward of it according to wind and tide. Pilots will couid
out from Victoria upon your making the requisitu signal. For Esquimalt or Royal buy,
the chart and Captain Richards' dirootious will be quite suthcient.

In tho night time, with a commanding westerly breeze round the Race rocks, as above,
and gradually haul up to the N.W. or as far as the wind will allow you, for Parry bay,

/ ll!S

i:l

4S0

APPENDIX.

or antil yea bring the Race ligbt to bear S. by E. ; yon mil then be pretty well tinder
shelter of the land, and may get your heavy sails farled if it be blowing hard, or
otherwise copsidered necessary.

Shortly aft6r rounding the Bace rocks, yon will see the light on Fis^ard island at the
west side of the entrance to Esquimalt harbour. In hauling up for Parry bay, do not
shut in this light with Albert head. You may pass Albert head at the distance of half
a mile or less, then bring Fisgard light to bear N. by W., steer for it, and anchor in
12 fathomp, an excellent berth acd good holding ground.

When passiLg Albert head, yon will have no bottom with the hand lead, but stand
boldly on under easy sail, and yoit will soon find 17, 15,13, and 12 fathoms. Anchor
as above directed.

If bound to Victoria with an easterly wind, and should you be up with the Race rocks
during the night, it will be prudent for a stranger to (Sontinue working to the eastward,
giving the Race rocks a good berth, (and also guarding against Ediz hook, on the
American shore, which is low and very dangerous in a dark night) until the light en
New Dungeness is visible from the deck ; then from the bearings of the two lights there
can be no difficulty in maintaining a safe and weatherly position until daylight, when a
course can be shaped according to circumstances.

Pilots are always in attendance for Victoria harbour ; they are attentive and skilful ;
vessels drawing 17 feet can enter at the proper time of tide with safety. The harbour
accommodation is very limited, and ships discharge their cargoes generally by laying
alongside the wharves, where they ground at low water ; the best and safest wharves
are well up the harbour, towards the bridge.

Vessels from Victoria, bound down the strait, meeting with a fresh westerly wind,
had better remain at anchor in Royal bay, until there is a prospect of a fair wiu(l>- -for
little good can be done in the narrow part of the strait with a foul wind.

Port Angelos, on the southern shore, is a good and safe anchorage ; New Dungenens
should be avoided. But should vessels be well to leewnrd and caught by a westerly
gale, port Townshend will be found an excellent harbour. For these last named
anchorages, the chart with Captain Richards' directions will be found amply sufficient
to enable any stranger to take his ship to a place of safety.

A fixed white light is now placed on Admiralty head, which must be of great service
to vessels running for port Townshend in the night.

Vessels sometimes anchor on what is called " The Bank," between point Wilson and
point Hudson when shelter only is required ; a good berth must be given to point
Wilson to avoid the reef which lies o£f it — also to point Hudson for a similar reason."

SAN FRANCISCO HARBOUR REGULATIONS, &o.*

Bztraeta of Vllot KagnUtloDa-approvad asarob a9«h, 1878.

t>: \i

All vessels, their tackle, apparel, and the furniture, and the master and owners
thereof, are jointly and severally liable for piloty.go fees, to bo recovered iu any Court
of competent jurisdiction. — VoUtical Code, page 4'IH, Section 2482.

Every pilot, on boarding a vcshoI, when required by the master thereof, must oxMbit
his commission as pilot. A refusal so to do subjects him to u forfeit re of U;h cjm-
mission or license, and a recovery of fifty dollars on his bond, in a suit iuH ^.jted for
that purpose by the authority appointing him. — I'oliiit 'il Coth, page 444, Ret lion 24D4

Every pilot carried to sen against his will, or uunoeeHflnrily detained on uoard of u
Tessol, when a pilot boat is in attendance to receive him, is entitled to receive the sum

* ThfliiA liMbour rogalatioua, Ite., &o., ara eztraotsd from Ttnnent'$ Nautical Almanac, for 1880,
pabliahad at San FrauoiBoo.

APPENDIX.

481

of eight dollars per day while necessarily absent or detained, not to exceed in the
aggregate the sum of one thousand dollars in any one case, which sum may be recovered
by an action against the master or owner of the vessel so taking him away. — Political
Code, page 444, Section 2485.

Every pilot in charge of a vessel arriving in the port of San Francisco, must safely
moor the vessel in each position as the master of the vessel or Harbour Master may
direct. He mast prevent all persons, (except officers of the State or Federal Govern-
ments, owners or consignees of the vessel or cargo, and persons admitted on the ex-
press orders of the master) fiom boarding such vessel until she has been safely moored.
To enforce the provisions of this section and other police regulations for the harbour
of San Francisco, every pilot in charge of a vessel entering the harbour of San Fran-
cisco is authorized and empowered to arrest every one who, in opposition to the
master's orders persists in boarding such vessel, or who, having boarded her, refuses
to leave on the command of such master or pilot; when so arrested, he must be im-
mediately brought before the Police Judge's Court, or admitted to bail, as. provided in
the Penal Code. — Political Code, Vol. 1, page 449, Section 2459.

The pilotage inside the Heads to the anchorage opposite San Francisco, and about
the harbour, or between the harbour of San Francisco and the ports of Mare island,
Yallejo, or Benicia, must be at s]ich rates as agreed on between the parties, not to
exceed five dollars per foot draught. — Political Code, page 452, Section 2466.

The following are the rates of pilotage into or out of the harbour of San Francisco:
Vessels under five hundred tons, five dollars per foot draught ; vessels over five
hundred tons, five dollars per foot draught, and four cents per ton for each and every
ton of registered measurement. Vessels engaged in the whaling or fishing trade shall
be exempt from all pilotage except where a pilot is actually employed. When a vessel
is spoken, inward or outward bound, and the services of a pilot are declined, one-half
of the rates must be paid. In all cases where inward bound vessels are not spoken
until inside of the bar, the rates of pilotage and one-half pilotage must be reduced fifty
im' cent. — Political Code, Vol. 1, 452, Section 2466.

Any vessel in tow of a steam-tug between the harbour of San Francisco and the
j.'. :i jfMare island, Vallejo, or Benicia, is not liable for pilotage unless a pilot is
ftct;, Hy employed. — Political Code, pp. 452, 453, Section 2467.

■i \\ vessels coasting between San Francisco and any port in Oregon, or in Wash-
'i»;{t>'7 or Alaska territories, and all vessels coasting between ports of this State, are
t: fiQ^tyt from all charges of pilotage unless a pilot is actually employed. — Political
t t' |.age 452, Section 2468.

If any pilot, in endeavouring to assist or relieve any vessel in distress, sufiers loss
or damage in his boats, sails, tackle^ rigging, or appurtenances, the master, owner, or
consignee of such vessel must pay the valuo cf auoh loss or damage, to be ascertained
by the Commissioners. (Section 2488.)

When cruising off or standing out to sea, pilots must go to a vessel nearest to
shore, or in the most distress, under a penalty of one hundred dollars. For refusing
to go on board a vessel when required, a like penalty may be imposed. (Section
2487.)

When two or more pilots shall ofier their services to any vessel inward bound, the
pilot first oiTo^ug, or one connected with the same boat, shall have preference ; and if
the (.ervices of another be accepted, the vessel, her appurtenances, and the muster and
owner thereof shall be jointly and severally liable to the pilot entitled to such pre-
ference for one-half the amount of pilotage he would have been entitled to had his
services been accepted. (Suction 2469.)

Any pilot bringing a vessel into the harbour (or one connected with his boat) shall
be entitled to take such vessel to sea again when she departs ; provided, such pilot and
those uonuectud with his boat have not in the meantime become in any manner dis-
qualified or incapacitated ; and if such preference bo disregarded by the master of such
vessel, the vessel, munter, and owner shall be liable to tlio pilot entitled to such pre-
ference for nne-half the amount to which he would be entitled if his services had been
Moopted. (HeotioQ 2470.)

■il'

{ i

iti I

48a APPENDIX.

axtraets firom tb« tttalth una Qnuaatina Ziaws for tbtt Harbour of 8aa
rran«laeo.~-Jannary lat, A. D. 1873.

The quarantine gronnds of the bay and harbour of San Francisco, are at the
anchorage of Saucelito. — Political Code, vol. 1, page 562, Section 8004.

Shipmasters bringing veosela into the harbour of San f rancisco, and masters,
owners, or consignees having vessels in the harbour, which have on board any cases of
Asiatic cholera, small-pox, yellow fever, typhus, or ship fever, must report the same
in writing to the Health Officer '^^t^re lauding any passengers, casting anchor, or
coming to any wharf, or as soon ti - ''■>" as they, or either of them, become aware of
the existence of either of these didi a board of their vessels. — Political Code,

vol. 1, page 564, Section 8018.

No captain or other officer in command or' any vessel sailing under a register, arriving
at the port of San Francisco, nor any owner, consignee, agent or other person having
charge of such vessel, must, under a penalty of not less than one hundred dollars,
land, or permit to be landed, any freight, passengers or other persons from such
vessel, until he has reported to the Health Officer, presented his bill of health, and
received a permit from that officer to laud freight, passengers, or other persons. —
Political Code, vol. 1, page 665, Section 8014.

Every pilot who conducts into the port of San Francisco any vessel subject to
quarantine or examination by the Health Officer must :

First — firing the vessel no nearer the city than is allowed by law.

Second — Prevent any person from leaving, and tiny communication being made with
the vessel under his charge, until the Health Officer has boarded her and given the
necessary orders and directions.

Third — Be vigilant in preventing any violation of the quarantine laws, and report
without delay all such violatious that come to his knowledge to the Health Officer.

Fourth — Present the master of a vessel with a printed copy of the quarantine laws,
unless he has one.

Fifth — If the vessel is subject to quarantine, by reason of infection, place at the
masthead a small yellow flag. — 'Political Code, vol. 1, page 665, Section 8015.

Every master of a vessel subject to quarantine, or visitation by the Health Officer,
arriving in the port of San Francisco, who refuses or neglects either :

First — To proceed with and anchor his vessel at the place assigned for quarantine,
when legally directed so to do ; or.

Second — To submit his vessel, cargo, and passengers, to the Health Officer, or furnish
all necessary information to enable that officer to determine what quarantine or other
regulations they ought respectively to be subject to ; or

Third — To report all cases of diseases and deaths occurring on his vessel, and comply
with all the sanitary regulations of the bay and harbour : is liablf in the sum of live
hundred dollars for every such neglect or refusal.' — Political Code, page 566, Section
8016.

All vessels arriving off the port of San Francisco from ports which have been legally
declared infected ports, or all vessels arriving from ports where there is prevailing at
the time of their departure any contagious, infectious, or pcstiloutial disease, or vessels
with decaying cargoes, or which have unusually foul or otluusive holds, are subject to
quarautiue, and must bo by the master, owner, pilot, or consignee, reported to the
Health Officer without delay. No such vessel must cross a right line drawn from
Meiggs' Wharf to Alcatraz Island, until the Health Officer has boarded her and given
the order required by law. — Political Code, page 566, Section 8017.

The Health Officer must board every vessel subject to quarantine or visitation by
him, immediately on her arrival ; make such examination aud inspection of vessel,
books, papers, or cargo, or of persons on board, uuder oath, as he may judge expedient,
and determine whether the vessel should be ordered to quarantine, and if so, the period
of quarantine — Political Code, Section 8018.

No captain or other officer in command of any passenger-carrying vessel of more
than one hundred and fifty tons burden, nor of any vessel of more than one hundred

^UiitiaSOBm

m
'■.":*■

1 fi

APPENDIX,

488

and fifty tong burden having passengers on board, nor any owner, consignee, agent, or
other person having charge of such vessel or vessels, must, under penalty of not less
than one hundred dollars, nor more than one thousand dollars, land, or permit to be
landed, any passenger from the vessel, until he has presented his bill of health to
the Health Officer, and received a permit from that officer to land such passenger ;
except in such cases as the Health Officer deems it safe to give the permit before seeing
the bill of B.ea\ih.— Political Code, Section 3019.

The following fees may be collected by the Health Officer : For giving a permit to
land freight or passengers, or both, from vessels of less than one thousand tons burden,
froq^ any port out of this State, two and a half dollars ; from any port in this State,
. one dollar and a quarter ; from any passenger-carrying vessel of more than one thousand
tons burden, three dollars and seventy-five cents ; for vessels of more than one thou-
sand tons burden, carrying no passengers, two dollars and fifty cents ; for vaccination
of each person, one dollar. — Political Code, Section 3020.

The Board of Health may enforce compulsory vaccination on passengers in infected
ships, or coming from infected ports. — Political Code, Vol. 1. Section 8021.

Whenever any cause of action arises under any one of the provisions of this chapter,
suit may be maintained thereon in the name of the Health Officer, in any District Court
in this State. — Political Code, Vol. 1, Section 8032.

Bxtraota from Barbour Follee Ziaws.

No person shall board, or attempt to board, any vessel arriving in the harbour of
the City and County of San Francisco, before said vessel has been made fust to the
wharf, without obtaining leave from the master, or other person having charge of said
vessel, or permission in writing from the owner or owners, or the agent thereof; or
having boarded such vessel, shall refuse or neglect to leave the same upon request of
the master, or other person in charge thereof, under the penalty prescribed in the next
succeeding section of this Act.

Any person violating Section One of this Act shall be deemed guilty of a misdemeanor ;
and upon conviction thereof before the said Judge's Court of said city and county, shall
be punished for each offence by a fine not exceeding one hundred dollars, or imprison';
ment in the County Jail of the City and County of San Francisco for a term not
exceeding fifty days, or both, in the discretion of the Judge of the said Police Judge's
Court, w]u^ Court shall have jurisdiction in such cases.

The provisions of the last two foregoing sections shall not apply to any pilot or
public officer, visiting a vessel in the discharge of his duty.

The word " harbour," as used in this Act, shall be held to mean and include all the
waters of the Bay of San Francisco, within the limits of the City and County of San
Francisco ; and the word " vessel," as used in this Act, shall be held to moau and include
all vessels propelled by steam or sail, plying or bound on a voyage between the said
port of San B'rancisco and other ports in the State, or in any other State of the United
States, or in any foreign country.

HARBOUR POLICE SIGNALS.

Between sunrise and sunset, the national flag in the miz/.en rigging, and between
sunset and suurisu, a green or blue liglit, at least twelve feut above deck.

Bxtraeta of Oaneral Laws.

Every captain, master of a vossdl, or other person, who wilfully imports, brings, or
sends, or causes or procures to bo brought or sent, into this State, any person who is
a foreign convict of any crime which, if committed within this State, would be punished

F r

484

APPENDI3t.

therein (treason and misprision of treason excepted), or vho is delivered or sent to him'
fi<om any prison or place of confinement, in any place without this State, is gnilty of a
misdemeanor. — Ponal Code, Section 173.

Every person bringing or landing within this State any person bom either in the
Empire of China or Japan, or the islands adjacent to the Empire of China, withont
first presenting to the Commissioner of Immigration evidence satisfactory to snch
Commissioner that such person desires voluntarily to come into this State, and is a
person of good character, and obtaining from snch Commissioners a permit describing
Buoh person, and authorizing the landing, is punishable by a fine of not less than one
or more than five thousand dollars, or by imprisonment in the County Jail not less
than two nor more than twelve months. — Penal Code, Section 174.

Every master of a vessel subject to quarantine or visitation by the Health Officer
arriving in the port of Ban Francisco, who refuses or omits : First. To proceed and
anchor his vessel at a place assigned for quarantine at the time of his arrival ; or,
Second. To submit his vessel, cargo and passengers to the examination of the Health
Officer, and to furnish all necessary information to enable that officer to determine to
what length of quarantine and other regulations they ought respectively to be subject ;
or, Third. To remain with his vessel at quarantine during the period assigned for her
quarantine, and while at quarantine, to comply with the regulations prescribed by law,
and with such as any of the Officers of Health, by virtue of authority given them by
law, shall prescribe in relation to his vessel, his cargo, himself, his passengers, or crew,
is punishable by imprisonment in the County Jail not exceeding one year, or by
fine not exceeding two thousand dollars, or both. — Penal Cade, Section 876.

Every person who, within the anchorage of any port, harbour, or cov« of this State,
into which vessels may enter for the purpose of receiving or discharging cargo, throws
overboard firom any vessel the ballast, .r any part thereof or who otherwise places or
causes to be placed, in such port, harbour, or cove, any obstruction to the navigation
thereof, is guilty of a misdemeanor. — Penal Code, Section 618.

Every person who entices seamen to desert from any vessel lying in the waters of
this State, and on board of which they have shipped for a term or voyage unexpired at
the time of such enticement, is guilty of a misdemeanor. — Penal Code, Section 644.

Every person who harbours or secretes any seaman, knowing him to be shipped, and
with a view to persuade him to desert, is guilty of a misdemeanor. — Penal Code, Section
646.

When steamers meet, each must turn to the right, so as to pass without interfer-
ence, — Polilcal Code, Vol, 1, Section 2380.

When any steamer is running in the night time, her master mnst cause her to carry
two conspicuous lights, one exposed near her bow, and the other near her stern ; the
latter must be at least twenty feet above her deck. — Political Cede, Vol. 1 , Section
2866.

The owners of every steamboat are responsible for the good conduct of the master or
other person in charge employed by them ; and they are jointly and severally liable
for every penalty iucurrcd by the master, engineer, or other person in charge, which
cannot be collected from him by due course of law, as if they were bis sureties. — Political
Code, Vol. 1, Section 2878.

If any master, agent, or owner of any water craft, shall refuse or neglect to obey the
lawful orders or directions of the chief wharfinger, in matter", pertaining to the regula-
tions of said harbour, or removal or stationing any water-craft therein, such master,
agent, or owner, so refusing or neglecting, is guilty of a misdemeanor and upon convic-
tion thereof before any Court of competent jurisdiction, shall be punished by a fine not
to exceed three hundred dollars, or by imprisonment, but not to exceed one hundred
days in the jail of the City and County of San Francisco. — Political Code, Section 2C41.

Three State Harbour Conimimioiier».— Political Code, Section 843.

They have posuession of all that portion of the Hay of San Francisco along the water
ft-ont of the City and County of San Francisco, and adjacent thereto, to the distance of
six hundred feet into the waters of the bay from the line of the water-front, as defined
by an Act of the Legislature of this State, approved March 26th, a. d., 1861, together

APPENDIX*

486-

vith all of the improTements, rights, privileges, franchises, casements andappnrten&ncea
connected therewith, or in anywise appertaining thereto, excepting such portions of the
water-front as are held under valid leases ; and must also take possession and have the
control of any and all such portions of the water-front, with the improvements, rights,
privileges, franchises, easements and appurtenances, as are held U7ider valid leasns, if
any exist, as soon as the leases respectively expire or become void. — Political Code,
Section 2522.

The harbour of San Francisco is hereby placed nnder the control of the Board of
State Harbour Commissioners, and they are authorized to regulate the position of ships,
their moorings and anchorage, and generally to make rules and regulations concerning
them, with power to enforce the same as fully as that formerly used and exercised by
the Harbonr Master of the City and County of San Francisco. — Approved March SOth,
1874.

The Commissioners shall keep the routes of the ferry-boats passing in and out of
said harbour free and open at all times, so that ferry boats can conveniently make their
trips without impediment on the part of vessels at anchor or other obstructions. The
present Harbour 'Master of the City and County of San Francisco * * * shall,
daring his term of office, perform such services in and about the management and
regulation of said harbour as the Commissioners may require of him. — Approved
March aOth, 1874.

Every person who collects any tolls, wharfage or dockage, or lands, ships, or removes
any property upon or from any portion of the water-front of San Francisco, or from or
upon any of the wharves, piers, or landings under control of the State Harbour Com-
missioners, without being by such Board authorized so to do, is guilty of a misde-
meanor. — Penal Code, Section 642.

Every person who attempts, by means of any threat or violence, to deter or prevent
an executive officer from performing any duty imposed upon such officer by law, or
knowingly resists, by the use of force or violence, such officer in the performance of his
duty, is punishable by fine not exceeding five thousand dollars, and imprisonment in
the County Jail not exceeding five years. — Penal Code, Section 69.

Every person who willfully resists, delays, or obstructs any public officer in the dis-
charge, or attempt to discharge, any duty of his office, when no other punishment is
prescribed, is punishable by fine not exceeding five thousand dollars, and imprisonment
in the County Jail not exceeding five years. — Penal Code, Section 148.

Every person who willfully obstructs or hinders any public officer from collecting any
revenue, taxes, or other sum of money in which the people of this State are interested,
and which such officer is by law empowered to collect, is guilty of a misdemeanor. —
Ptnal Code, Section 428.

[Wharfingers and Toll Collectors are public officers.]

Baxbonr Rulas and Ragulatlons mad* by th* Board of State Harbour OommlstloBcrs
by Antborlty of an Aet approved BKoreli aoth, 1 a 74, and to take effeot
on tba lat day of Jnly, 1874.

[Amendments to 1879.] >

Bulk 1. — Vessels must not be anchored or moored between a line drawn from the
end of Jackson Street Wharf to the most southerly end of Goat Island, and a line
drawn from the end of Mission Street Wharf to the point where the southerly end of
the Central Pacific llailroad Wharf connects with the Oakland shore, nor must they
be anchored in such manner as to permit them to swing between said lines.

IluLB 2. — Vessels must not be anchored or moored within five hundred yards of a
line drawn from the out-shore end of Meiggs Whnrf, southerly along the ends of the.
wharves, to the out-shore end of Pacific Mail Company's Wharf.

F F 2 I

436

APPENDIX.

Rule S.— Yessels mnst not be moored in sach manner as to interfere with vessels '
approaching or leaving the wharves.

Rule 4. — YeRsels will not be entitled to a berth nntil application is made to the
Chief Wharfinger or Assistant Chief Wharfinger. And no application will be enter-
tained unless the vessel is in the harbour, and at anchor ; and berths will be assigned
in the order of application so made, the applicant giving the draught of vessel, kind of
cargo, and locality desired : and in no case must a berth be assigned by a person other
than the Chief Wharfinger or Asfiistant Chief Wharfinger.

Rule 5. — Idle vessels must haul or go into the stream to an anchor at the expense
of such vessel, when required to do so by the Chief Wharfinger to make room for
vessels requiring immediate accommodations.

Rttlb 6. — When it is necessary for a vessel to move to allow entrance or exit to
other vessels, they must do so at their own expense.

Rule 7. — ^Vessels, when being moved into a slip or alongside of a wharf, mnst
approach " head on," and when at a wharf must lie head toward the shore. Their
studding-sails, booms and spritsail yards must be rigged in ; their ofi* shore anchors
suspended ready for dropping ; their lower and topsail yards braced " sharp up " on
their in-shore braces, excepting when in actual use discharging or loading cargo ; and
when required by the Wharfingers their movable fore-and-alt spars and martingale
must be rigged in.

Rule 8. — Vessels ready to discharge cargoes given the preference over those ready
to receive cargo.

Rule 9. — Vessels anchored or moored in the harbour, or lying in a slip or dock,
. must at all times, as well by night as by day, have on board at least uue seaman
capable of taking proper care of such vessel. If a vessel shall be required to be
removed, such vessel may be removed by the wharfingers at the expense of the owner
of such vessel, and the owner aud the vessel ahall be liable for all damage that shall
arise thereby,

Rule 10. — When ballast, stones, coals, bricks, ashes, cinders, dust, rubbish, or
other loose matter or thing that will sink, is being landed from a vessel upon a wharf
or landing, or is being transferred from one vessel into another vessel, a canvas, or
shoot, or other contrivnnce, to the satisfaction of the wharfinger, mnst be used to
prevent any part, of such substances from falling into the harbonr.

Rule 11. — Fire must not bo used on board of any vessel for heating pitch, tar, or
other inflammable substance, but may be used on floating stages or boats for the
purpose of heating such substances for repairing vessels, provided such fire is constantly
in the care of a person capable of taking proper care of the same.

Rule 12. — Every steam engine, when used upon any wharf or landing for loading or
unloading cargo, must have upon its smoke-stack a bonnet or spark-catcher that will
efi'ectually prevent sparks falling upon such wharf or landing, or upon the deck of any
vessel.

Rule 18. — The number of piles or pieces of timber, permitted to be unloaded from
the same vessel into any slip or dock before being removed, must not exceed one
hundred, and none mnst remain in a dock or slip during the night without the per-
mission of the wbtirilnger.

Rule 14. — All condemned or dismantled vessels must be moved to such places as
Chief Wharfinger shall designate.

Rule 15. — No substauco that will sink or form an obstruction to navigation must
be deposited in the waters or on the shore of the Harbour, without first obtaining per-
mission in writing from the Harbour CommiHsioncrs.

Rule 16. — All rubbif a or other substance landed upon a wharf or landing upon
which wharfage is not charged, must be removed therefrom by the party landing the
same ; and if not removed by such party, will be removed by the wharfinger nt the
expense of such party. All coal-scrcons or donkey engines must be removed b; tvner
or agent at the request of the wharfinger.

Rule 17. — All lumber lighters and other lighters or barges not being discharged or
empty, must be hauled from the wharf and securely moored in the slip, as may be
directed by the wharfinger.

Rule 18. — No vessel will be put upon half rates until permission is given by the
Chief or Assistant Chief Wharfinger.

APPENDIX.

487

Bulb 19. — All vessels coming from leased premises will be charged the same a^ if
coming from the stream.

Rule 20.— Neither the slips, docks, basins or wharves, nor the space in front of
them, nor the streets along tho water front mast be obstructed by Hny material or
Btrncture. If any such obstruction be not removed within twenty-four hours after
notice to that effect, such material or structure will be removed, stored or sold by the
Commissioners, and twenty-five dollars will be charged for each day that the obstruction
has existed, together with the expense of removal, storage or sale.

RcLB 21. — No persons are permitted to collect dockage, whaifage, I'ent or tolls un-
less authorized by the Harbour Commissioners, and the rates charged by lessees must
conform strictly to those fixed by the Commissioners.

Buiii 22. — If any vessel leaves any wharf, slip, dock or basin, unless forced to do
f(0 by stress of weather, without first paying tho dockage due, such vessel will be
placed upon the delinquent list, and will not be permitted to use any wharf, slip, dock
or basin without first paying double the bill incurred and ten dollars in addition thereto.

Bulb 23. — The master, agent or owner of any vessel refusing or neglecting to obey
the orders of the Chief or Assistant Chief Wharfinger in any matter pertaining to the
regulation of the Harbour, or removal, or stationing of such vessel, is guilty of a mis-
demeanor, and liable to a fine not exceeding three hundred dollars, or imprisonment
not exceeding one hundred days.

T«legrapli Oables ia San Franelaeo Barbonr.

The following landmarks, or monuments, have been erected to indicate the telegraph
cable crossing near Benicia.

On the small island opposite Benicia there is a pole, about ten (10) feet high, with
a white sign at the end of the pole, lettered " Telegraph cable crosses here."

There is a similar pole and sign in a small ravine or cove on the Contra Costa shore,
nearly opposite said island, a little below it, down stream.

The cable extends from the small island aforesaid to the monument on the Contra
Costa side.

Another telegraph cable has been laid between the Market Street wharf, San Fran-
cisco, and the Long wharf at Oakland, as nearly as possible in the centre of the on»
thousand feet reserved by law for the protection of Ferry boats.

Masterb are requested to keep their anchors clear of this roate.

All persons or vessels damaging or breaking these cables, whether by dragging
anchors or otherwise, will be promptly prosecuted. The penalty fixed by law is a fine
of not less than five hundred nor more than ten thousand dollars, to which are added
full damages arising from injury done to the cable.

PaaaanBcr Act of th« State of Oalifomla.

The Passenger Act of the State of California requires all tnasten or commanders of
veascls, arriving from ports outside the State of California, to make report to the Com-
missioner of Immigration within twenty-four hours of arrival. This report is to con-
tain the names of all persons or passengers on board who may be naturalized citizens
of the United States ; also, their age, nativity, occupjitioa, place and date of natural-
ization. The report must also contain the names, ages, nationality, and occupation
of all persons or passengers on board not citizens of the United States. Masters or
commanders of vessels are to require all persons claiming to bo naturalized citizens to
make oath or to affirm the same, giving the time and place whore said naturalization
took place.

Special bonds are required for all "lunatic, deaf, dumb, blind, crippled, or infirm
persons, whose circumstances make it probable they will become a burden on the
State." The penalty for non-report is $200, and $200 per alien passenger not
reported. ,

REQULATIONS

nil

ill

i!(|

FOR

PREVENTING COLLISIONS AT SEA.

(To come into operation on September \st, 1880 J

Art. 1. — In the following rnles every Bteamship which ia under sriI and not
under steam is to be considered a sailing ship ; and every Rteainnhip which is
under steam, whether under sail or not, is to be considered a ship under steam.

RULES CONCERNING LIGHTS.
Art. 2.—-'Ugh.tm. — The lights mentioned in the following Articles, nnmberecl
S, 4, 6, 6, 7, 8, u, 10, and 11, and no others, shall be carried in all weathers, from
■unset to sunrise.

Art. 8.— ughta for steamships.— A sea-going steamship, when under way,
■hall carry : —

(a.) On or It) FhuMx of the Foremast, at a height above the hull of
not less thau 20 feet, and if the breadth of the ship exceeds 20 feet then
at a lieight above the hull not less than such breadth, a bright white light,
so constructed as to show an uniform and unbroken light over an arc of tit*
horizon of 20 points of the compass ; so fixed as to throw the light 10 pointB
on each side of the ship, viz., from right ahead to two points abaft the beam
on either side; and of such a character as to be visible on a dark night, with
■ clear atmosphere, at a distance of at least 6 miles.

{h.) On the Starboard Side, a green light so constrtKited as to show an
uniform and unbroken light over an arc of the horizon of 10 points of the
compass ; so fixed as to throw the light from right ahead to two points abaft
the beam on the starboard side ; and of such a character as to be visible on
• dark night, with a clear atmosphere, at a distance of at least 2 miles.

(o.) On the Port Side, a red light, so constructed as to show an uniform
■nd unbroken light over an are of the horizon of 10 points of the compass ;
so fixed as to throw the light from right ahead to two points abaft the beam
on the port side ; aud of such a character as to be visible on a dark night,
with a clear atmospliere, at a distance of at least 2 miles.

(d.) The said green and red side lights shall be fitted with inboard $ereen$

projecting at least three feet forward from the light, so as to prevent these

lights from being ceeu across the bow.

Art. 4.— zdBbts tor Bteam-tngs.— A steamship, when towing another ship

■hall, in addition to her tide lighti, carry two bright white lightt in a vertical line

one over the other, not less than three feet apart, so as to distinguish her from

other steamships.

Each of these lights shall be of the same construction and character, and shall
be carried in the same position, as the white light which other steamships M«
required to carry.

Art. 6.— Xilgbts far TeUsraph-sbips.— A ship, whether a steamship or a sailing
■hip, when employed either in laying or in picking up a telegraph cable, or
which from any accident is not under command, shall at night carry in the same
position as the white light which steamships are required to carry, and, if m
steamship, in place of that light, three red lights in globular lanterns, each not
less than 10 inches in diameter, in a vertical line one over the other, not less than
three feet apart : and shall by day carry in a vertical line one over the other,
not less than three feet apart, in front of but not lower than her foremasthead*
three black balls or shapes, each two feet in diameter.

REODLATIONS FOB PREVENTING COLUBIONS AT SEA.

y These shapes and lights are to be taken by approaching ships as signals that
toe ship using them is not under command, and cannot therefore f;et out of the
way. The above ships, when not making any way through the water, shall not
earry the side lights, bnt v?hen making way shall carry them.

Art. 0.— Ugbta for BaUfns-aliipa.— A sailing ship under way, or being towed,
shall carry the same lights as are provided by Article 3 for a steamship under
way, with the exception of the white light, which she shall never carry.

Art. 7. — Bxeeptional Lights for amali 8alllng-T«M«l8. — Whenever, as in the
case of small vessels during bad weather, the green and red side lights cannot
be fixed, these lights shall be kept on deck, on their respective sides of the vessel,
ready for use : and shall, on the approach of or to other vessels, be exhibited on
their respective sides in sufficient time to prevent collision, in such manner
as to make them most visible, and so that the green light shall not be seen on
the pott side nor the red light on the starboard side.

To make the use of thefte portable lights more certain and easy, tlie lanterns
containing them shall each be painted outside witli the colour of the light they
respectively contain, lind shall be provided with proper screens.

Art. 8.— Uglits for Bbipa at Anchor.— A ship, whether a steamship or a
sailing ship, when at anchor, shall carry, where it can best be seen, but at a
height not exceeding 20 feet above the hull, a white light, in a globular lantern
of not less than eight inches in diameter, and so constructed as to show a clear,
uniform, and unbroken light visible all round the horizon, at a distance of at
least one mile.

Art. 0.— ughts for ruot-veaa«ii.--A pilot-vessel, when engaged on her
station on pilotage duty, shall not carry the lights required for other vessels, but
ShaU carry a white light at the mast-head, visible all round the horizon, and
shall also exhibit a flare-up light or flare-up lights at short intervals, which shall
never exceed 16 minutes. A pilot- ressel, when not engaged on her station on
pilotage duty, shall carry lights similar to those of other ships.

Art. 10.— Xdighta for nahiag Veaaela and Boats.— (a.) Open fishing boats
aid other open boats when under way shall not be obliged to carry the side
lights required for other vessels ; but every such boat shall in lieu thereof have
ready at hand a lantern with a green glatt on the one side and a red glass on the
other side; and on the approach of or to other vessels, such lantern shall be
exhibited in sufficient time to prevent collision, so that the green light shall not
be seen on the port side, nor the red light on the starboard side.

(b.) A fishing vessel and an open boat, when at anchor, shall exhibit a bright
vhite light.

(c.) A fishing vessel, when employed in drift net fishing, shall carry on one of
her masts two red lights in a vertical line one over the other, not less than tbreo
feet apart.

{d.) A trawler at work shall carry on one of her masts two lights in a vertieai
lint one over the other, not less than three feet apart, the upper light red, and the
lower green, and shall also either carry the side lights required for other vessels,
or, if the side lights cannot be carried, have ready at hand the coloured lights as
provided in Art. 7, or a lantern with a red and a green glass as described in
paragraph (a) of this Article.

(«.) Fishing vessels and open boats shall not be prevented from using a flare-up
in addition, if they desire to do so. r

i/4 The lights mentioned ia this Article are substituted for those mentioned in

\ i\

BBGTLATIONS FOR PREVENTINO COLLISIONS AT SEA.

the liih, T.8tb, and 14th Articles of the Convention between Fnmce and EUigluid
ichedoleri to the British Sea Fisheries Act, 1868.

(g.) All lights required by this Article, except side lights, shall be in globolar
Isntpms so constructed as to show all round the horizon.

Art 11.— 'UBlitflfbraaiilpoTerUkenbyaaother.— A ship which is being
ot ertaken by another shall show from her stem to snob last-mentioned ship •
wUm Ught or a flare-up light.

SOUND SIGNALS FOR FOG, &o.
Alt 12. — roB Blcaals. — A steamship shall be provided with a MteamwhiitU or
other e£Bcient steam sound signal, so placed that the sound may not be intercepted
by any obstructions, and with an efficient fog-horn to be sounded by a bellows
or other mechanical means, and also with an efficient belt. A sailing ship shall
be provided with a similar /oi^-Aorn and bell.

In fog, mist, or falling snow, whether by day or night, the signals described in
this Article shall be used as follows ; that is to say,

(a) A steamship under way shall make with her tteam whittU, or other
steam sound signal, at intervals of not more than two minutes, aprolonged blast.
((.) A sailing ship under way shall make with her fog-horn, at intervals of
not more than two minutes, when on the starboard tack one blast when on
the port tack two blasts in succession, and when with the wind abaft the
beam three blasts in succession.

(e.) A steamship and a sailing ship when not under way shall, atintervals
of not mor? than two minutes, ring the bell.

SPEED OP SHIPS IN FOG, &o.
Art. 13.— Speed during roff.— Every ship, whether a sailingsbip or steamship,
shall in a fog, mist, or falling snow, go at a moderate speed.

STEERING AND SAILING RULES.
Art. 14.— Two BalUne Bbips meetlas.— When two sailing ships are approach'
ing one another so as to involve risk of collision, one of them shall keep out of tha
way of the other as follows, viz. :—

(a.) A ship which is running free shrii I ''ep out of the way of a ship
which is close-hauled.

{b.) A ship which is olose-hanled on the port tack shall keep out of the
way of a ship which is close-hauled on the starboard tack.

(c.) When bulL are running free with the wind on different sides, the ship

which has the wind on the port side shall keep out of the way of the other.

(d.) When both are running free with the wind on the same side, the ship

which is to windward shall keep out of the way of the ship which is to leeward.

(e.) A ship which has the wind aft shall keep out of the way oi the other

ship.

Art 15.— Two Sblps under Btaam meatlnB.— If two ships under steam ara

meeting end on or nearly end on, so as to involve risk of collision, each shall alter

her course to starboard, so that each may pass on the port side ol the other.

This Article only applies to cases where ships are meeting end on, or
nearly end on, in such a manner as to involve risk of collision, and does not
apply to two ships which must, if both keep on their respective courses, pass
clear of each other.

The only cases to which it does 4pply are. when each of the two ships ia
and on, or nearly end on. to the other; in other words, to oases in whioh, by

1. ■i? ,

r !

rtiimifiTmirirmiiTrn

BilSI

Itmmm

REGULATIONS FOR PREVENTING COLLISIONS AT SEA.

daj, eaeh ship sees the mnsts nf the other in a line, or nearly in a line, with
her own ; and by ni^lit, to cases in wliich each ship is in such a position as
to aee both tlie side lights of the other.

It does not apply by day, to cases in which a ship sees another ahead
crossing her own conrse ; or by night, to cases where the red light of one ship
is opposed to tlie red light of the other, or where the green light of one ship
is opposed to the green light of the other, or where a red light without a
green light, or a green light without a red light, is seen ahead, or where both
green and red lights are seen anywhere but ahead.

Art. 10. — Two SUpanndar steam erosalng. — If two ships nnder steam are
tromng, lo aa to involve risk of collision, the ship which has the other on her
own starboard side shall keep out of the way of the other.

Art 17. — Sailing Ship and Sbtp nnrier steam. — If two ships, one of which ia
s sailing ship and the other a steamship, are proceeding in such directions as to
inToIve risk of collision, the steamship shall keep out of the way of the sailing ship.

Art 18. — sblpa nndw Steam to •laeken speed. —Every steamship, when
approaching another ship, so as to involve risk of collision, shall slacken her
■peed or stop and reverse, if necessary.

Art. 19.— Optional Signa'ia. — In taking any course anthorized or required by
these Regulations, a steamship nnder way may indicate that course to any other
ship which she has in sight by the following signals on her steam whistle, viz. :—

One short blast to mean " T am directing my course to tlarbourd."

Two short blasts to mean " / am directing my course to port."

Throe short blasts to mean " / am going full speed astern."

The use of these signals is optional; but if they are used, the course of the
ship must be in accordance with the signal made.

Art 20.— VeaaeU OTertaklng other ▼•■■•to.— Notwithstanding anything con-
tained in a preceding Article, every ship, whetlier a sailing ship or a steamship,
overtaking any other, shall keep out of the way of the overtaken ship.

Art. 21.— steomaiiips in narrow ctiannato. — In narrow channels every steam*
ship shall, when it is safe and practicable, keep to that side of the fairway or
mid-channel which lies on the starboard side of such ship.

Art 22.— ▼•■■•! to k^^p li«r conrao. — Where by the above rnles one of two
ships is to keep out of the way, the other shall keep her course.

Art. 23. — Proviso to save Special Cases. — In obeying and construing these
rules due regard shall be had to all dangers of navigation ; and to. any special
circumstances which may render a departure from the above rules necessary in
order to avoid immediate danger.

Art. 24. — No Ship, vndeb ant CiscuHSTAt ces to Neouict Pbofer Pbs-
CAUTIONS. — Nothing in these rules shall exonerate any ship, or the Owner, or
Master, or Crew thereof, from the consequences of any neglect to carry lights or
signals, or of any neglect to keep a proper look out, or of the neglect of any
precaution which may be required by the ordinary practice of seamen, or by the
special circumstances of the case.

Art. 26. — Reservation or Rules for Harbours and Inland Navigation.—
Nothing in these rules shall interfere with the operation of a special rule, duly
made by some Local Authority, relative to the navigation of any harbour, river, or
inland navigation.

Art. 26. — Special Liohts for Squadrons and Convoys.— Nothing in these
rules shall interfere with the operation of any special rules made by the Govem-
ment of any nation with respect to additional station and signal lights for two or
more ships ef war or for ships sailing under convoy.

442

TIDE TABLES.

[Extracted from the Admiralty Tide Tables, 1880. j

High

Rise.

High

Biae. 1

PI.AOI.

Water,
Full and

FUOB.

Water,
Full and

Change.

Springs

Neaps.

Change.

Springs.

Neaps.

Central America, West Coast,

Cdli/omia and Oregon.*

h. m.

ft.

h. m.

It.

rt.

CabiUBay. . . .

8 40

Puerto Refugio . .

PortUtria. . . .

San Lucas Bay . .

8 28

Cupica Bay . ...

3 30

Mngdalena Bay . .

6 25

Octavia Bay . . .

3 30

Port San Qnentin .

9 30

PinasBay ....

3 15

9 10?

7-9?

————— JJariulOIUo

Chepo River . . .

3 40

Playa Marie Bay . .

9 20?

7-9?

Pedro Gonzales,

Gcrros Island . . .

9 10

7-9

(Tmpiohi Island .

3 50

Sta. Barbara Island

ChamfiBay . . .

Sau Diego Bayf . .

9 38

Taboga

Ensenada Anchorage

Panama Boad. . .

3 23

15-22

10-16

Santo Tomas „

Coiba Inland . . .

3 10

12?

San Juan Anchorage

9 40?

Bahia Honda . . .

3 10

12?

San Pedro Ancb.f

9 45

Port Nuevo . . .

3 10

San Miguel, (Cuyler

Parida Island . . .

3 15

lOi

Harbouit) . . .

9 25

Nicoya Gulf (Port

San Rosa Island . .

9 80?

Herradiiri;) . . .

3 9

Santa Gatalina la.

9 35?

Port Culebra . . .

3 10

10?

Santa Cruz Island .

9 35?

Siilinas Bay . . .

3 10

10?

San Luis Obispof

10 8

Port San Juan del

Moutereyt ....

10 22

gur

3 8?

10?

South Fatallonf . .
Sau Francisco . .

10 87

Port Realejo . . .

3 G

Port la Union, Gulf

„ North Beacht

of Ponseea . . .

3 15

lOJ

Drakes Bayt . . .

11 41

Acajutla Road . . .

2 25

Bodega Portf . . .

11 17

San Jpa6 Road . .

Mendocino Bay . .

10 60

5i?

Humboldt Bayt . .

Menioo,

West Coc

lit.

Trinidad Harbonr .
Crescent City . . .

11 11
11 44

7i
64?

Port Guatulco . . .

1 30

PortOrfordt . . .

11 36

6»

„ Sacrifloios . .

3 15

KooB Bay ....

11 26

Aoapuloo ....

3 6

Columbia RiTer,Ent.

8-8

Perulft Bay . . .

„ Marsh Island

San Bias ....

9 41

Creek ....

1 20

4-7

Muzatlan ....

9 40

Astoriat ....

Culiacan River . .

11 30

Grays Harbour , .

St. Lorenzo Channel

8 22

Nce-ah Harbourf. .

Oiiaymas Harbour .

Port Townshendt .

8 49

Colorado River . .

2 16

25-30

16-20

Fort Steilaooomf. .

4 46

,r:!,

* The tides on tliese coasts are of so oorapUcated a character that the following general explanation
is considorod necessary : — There are generally in each twenty-four hours, or rather in each Ulnar day
of 24h. 50m., two high and two low watern, which are unequal in height and in time in proportion
to the moon's declination, differing most from each other wlien the moun's declination is greatest,
and least when tiie moon is on the equator. The high and low watets generally follow each other
thus : starting from the lowest low water, the tide rises to the lower of the two high waters (some-
times Improperly called " half-tide"), tiieu falls slightly to a low water (which is sometimes merely
indinated by a long stand) ; thou rises to the bighost higii water, whtiDse it falls again to tlio lowest
low water. — Tide Tables for the Pacific coast of tJie United States.

t From the United States Coast Survey, the time o.' High Water leing tiie conected snd i'.ot the
Viilftar EstabliBhmer^.

ii III' iiirffiitfliiWi 'iiiTriiTiyttfciiii^'fii ■ -L ...^ , . ..

^.-silJIiMMiiiHnMikHWiiKAi

L.i«i » .iyii ii <iM in

iiimiiiiliilltp

TIDE TABLES.

448

Plioe.

HiRh

Water,
Full and
Change.

Rise.

Springs.

Neaps.

Vaneauver Iiland, Jvuin d» Fuca Strait, and
Britith Co2um6ta<

Sooke Harbour . .

Baee Islands . . .

Egquimalt Harbour*

Victoria Harbour* .

Inner Channels lead-
ing from Juan <le
Fuca Strait to Haro
Strait • . • •

Ghiffln Bay, Haro
Archipelago . .

Boobe.Har., Haro St.

Port DisooTery . .

Nisqually, Pnget Sd.

Fane Island, Plumper
Sound . . .

Drayton Harbour,
Semiahmoo Bay

Frnser Biver (entr.)

Burrard Inlet, Gulf
of Georgia . . .

Plumper Cove, Howe
Soundt . . . .

Port Gravest . . .

Stuart Channel,
(Oyster Harbour) .

Stuart Channel, (Co-
witohin Harbour) .

Maple Bay ....

Nanaimo Harbour,
Gulf of Georgia .

Nanoose Harbour,
Vancouver Island .

Pender Harbour,
Strait of Georgiaf .

Port Augusta . . .

Hernando Island,
(Baker Passage)
Strait of Georgia .

Surge Narrows . .

BendeEvous Islands .

Stuart Island . . .

Waddington ilarb.,
Bute Inlet . . .

Gowlland Harbour,
Discovery Passage

Seymour Narrows .

Cameleon Harbour,
Nodales Channel .

Forward Harbour. .

BeaverOreek, Lough-
borough Inlet . .

Topaze Harbour . .

Knox Bay ....

f h. m.

ft.

3 or

irr.

7-10

irr.

7-10

irr. •

10-12

irr. •

irr.

2 80

irr.

6 80

7-10

noon.

10-12

12-14

12-U

6 80

11.

noon.

ft.

6-8
6-8

llj
11*

114
111

PliACX.

High
Water,
Full and
Change.

Bise,

Springs,

Neaps..

Port Neville? . . .

Port Harveyl (Call
Creek) . . . .

Beaver Cove . . .

Alert Bay, Cormor-
ant Island . . .

Nimpkiah River . .

Su-quash Anchorage

Beaver Harbour§ . .

Shnshartie Bayf . .

Bull' Harbour, Gole-
tas Cliannelf . .

Blunden and Tracey
Harbours, Queen
Charlotte Sound .

Cypress Harbour,
Sharp Passage . .

Deep Harbour, Fife
Sound . . . .

CuUen Harbour . .

Sunday Harbour and
Dusky Cove, Qn.
Charlotte Sound .

Farewell Harbour and
Sargeaont Passage,
Knight Inlet . .

Quatsino Sound,
Vancouver Island .

Klaskino Inlet . .

Klaskish Inlet, Yau-
oonver Island . .

Nasparte Inlet, „ .

Ou-Ou-Kinsh
Inlet ,, .

Kyuquot Sound ,, .

Esperania Inlet ,, .

Nuchatlitz Inlet ,, .

Nootha Sound ,, .

Hesquiat L ' ',). ,, .

Clayoquot S pund . .

Barclay 'f'Und, Is-
land Ztarbour . .

Stamp Harbour . .

h. m.
30

ft.
17

10
15

30
30
30

15
14
16
15}

12i

noon.

noon,
noon.

16
16

15
154

noon.

noon,
noon.

12
12

noon,
noon,
noon,
noon,
noon,
noon,
noon.

12
12
12
12
12
12
12

noon,
noon.

12
12

Avierica, North-wem, Coast,

Taknsh Hnrbour,

Smith Inlet . .
Fitz Hugh Sound,
Schooner lletreat

,, Safety Cove . .

., Gold'StreaniHar.

,, Niiniu Harbour .

,, Welcome Ilarb. .
Port Joliu, Fislier

Channel . . . .

noon.

15-16

ft.

114

114
114

11}
114

8
12

121

12-16

* May to October, fVom Midnight to 3 a.m. November to April from Noon to 3 p.m.
t From observations made in the month of October.
I From obBervatious made in May.

I'A

TIDE TABLES.

High

Bise.

•High

Bise.

Place.

"Water
Full and

Flaob.

Water
Full and

Change.

Springs.

Neaps.

Change.

Springs.

Neaps.

b. m.

ft.

h. m.

ft.

McLaughlin Bay,

Port Canaveral . .

(Lama Passage) .

„ Stephens . .

Kynumpt Harbour .

Qlawdzeet Anchor-

Port Blakeney, Mill-

age . .

1 80

17-22

14-17

bank Sound . .

noon.

8-10

„ Sound .

Finlayson Channel,

Port Simpson . . .

1 80

17-29

14-17

Nowish Cove . .

noon.

NassBay . .

1 6

Clemtoo Passage,

Observatory Inlet

1 6

Finlayson Chan-

Portland Inlet

1 30

23-27

15-20

nel

noon.

Highfield . .

Holmes Bay . . .

Sitka* . . .

2-8

Coghlan Anchorage .

Behring Bay . ,

Lowe Inlet . . .

Port Etches . .

1 15

Elewnugget Inlet,

„ Chalmers .

13f

■

Grenville Chan-

„ Chatham. .

nel

Ounalasbka Island .

7 30

Edye Passage

Cape Roshnoff . .

7 80

(Rbfuge Bay) . .

1 30

17-22

14-17

Ogden Channel

Queen Charlotte Island*.

(Alpha Bay). . .

Metlah Catlah,

Skidegate Inlet . .

Chatham Sound .

noon.

Port Kuper . . .

I 40

10*

* The tides at Sitka are affected by diurnal inequality.— T/k laU Rev. W. Wheicell on the Tide$
of the Pae\fio.

■HiiiMiHi

IHIIIH

445

PB.

TABLES OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.

Latitude, N.

Longitude, W.

/ w

/ II

28 46

82 33

• • t • ■ •

S6 20

29 25

• • • • • •

58 80

20 20

• ■ ■ • • •

17 55

27 30

■ • • • • •

41 1!)

29 86

■ * • • ■ •

'49 45

• • • • • •

84 87

9 50

• • • • • ■

21 15

• • • • ■ ■

16 20

17 10

11 20

45 45

■ • I ■ ■ ■

6 40

87 40

OS point

12 80

53 45

• • • • • •

65 35

• ■ • • ••

37 10

3 10

5 50

18 25

6 30

20 8(5

24 30

82 20

82 10

R- 35

41 40

rtO 32

67 ;

3. 12

64 30

80 20

33 86

34 5

7!<

40 50

58 10

20 40

87 5

V'.l

27 40

58 30

19 30

7 10

13 45

•^- a

15 15

uo 45

18 80

12 45

45 30

42 80

4 50

1 80

Cape Corrientes, eooth-west extremity

Alasea point, north extremity

Port Utria, centre of south islet ... .

8olano point, north extremity

Cupica bay, entrance of Cupica river
Cape Marzo, south-east extremity

Port Pinas, north-east bight

Garachine point, north-east extremity

Patena point, centre of islet

Oalera island (centre of )

San Jose bank, Trollope rock

Isla del Rey (south end of) — extremity of
„ church of San Miguel ... .

Saboga island, church

Gonzales island, Havannah head

San Jose island, Iguana point

Brava point, west extremity

Pajaros islands, north-west island

Pelade island (centre of)

Chepillo island, the tree

Panama, south tower of

Flamenco island (north point of)

Bona island, peak

Point Chame, extremity

Parita bay, Lisa point

Iguana island (centre of)

Cape Mala, extremity

South Fraile (centre of)

Morro Puercos, south extremity

Point Mariato, extremity

Narunjas island

Cebuco iRland, west extremity

Guburnador island (centre of)

Hicarita island, south extremity ... .

Coiba island, extremity of Negada point .

„ „ Uermosa point .

Montuosa island

Bahia Honda, extremity of cape Jabali
Port Nuevo, Silva do Afuora island ...
Seoas islands, south-western islet ... .

* TlioRe Ideographical poflitions as far as CoronadoB islots off port Ban Diego, California, in lat.
88° 24', are cliiefly from tlio Admiralty cliartH ; the majority of them must bo considered only ap-
proximntely correol, as the cnrtsts of Central America and Mexico have not heen minutely surveyed.
The longitudes from the gulf of Panama to the Oulf of Fonseca, differ so considerably from the
dotermiiuitioiiH of French survevcu's, being generally about 13 miles enstwanl of the latter, that wo
liave also added a tabl« of the rosnlts of the French observations, for which see subsociuunt pages.
A mean of the two may perhaps bo correct.

In some cases the geographical positions given in these tables differ from those given iu the text,
which are from other auUtoritieii.

44G

GEOGRAPHICAL POSEPIONS.

Viuda rock

Parida island, south-west extremity

Ladronos

Ciudad de l)avid

Burrica islaud

Gulf of Dnlce, extremity of cape Matapalo

„ Arenitas point

tf Golfito point

,, Banco point

Sal-si-puedes point, extremity of

Gano island, centre of

Llorena point, extremity

Judas point, mount Judas

Gulf of Nicoya, Herradura point

„ Galderas blutf

„ Sail rock

„ Pan de Azucar

,, Punta Arenas light

„ Blanco island

Guionos point, extremity of

Cape Velas, islet off

Culebra bay, Gorda point

Cape Elena, extremity of

Salinas bay, Salinas islet

San Juan del Sur, south point of bay

Mauut Miravelles or Mii'avaya

Mount Orosi

Mount Madera

Mount Ometepe

Mount Mombacho

Mount Momotombo ...

Mount Axusco

Mount Orot»

Mount Telioa

Mount Viejo ...

Renlejo, north-west end of Cardon island . . .
Gulf of Fonseca,* Amapala point, extremity

„ Chicarone point ... ...

,, La Union

San Miguel volcano

San Miguel river entrance (enRt point)
San Miguel river entrance (west point) ...

Jiquilisco bay (east point)

Jiquilisco bay (west point)

Usulutan volcano

Lempa river entrance (east point) ... ...

Lempa river entrance (west point)

San Vincente volcano

Concardia river (centre of entrance)

Jiboa river (centre of entrance)

San Salvador volcano

Libertad

Latitade, N.

Longitnde, W.

f It

O / 1/

8 6 15

82 9

8 5 60

8^ 20 40

7 52

82 25

8 27

82 26

8 10

82 64 40

8 16

88 17 10

8 82

88 16 40

8 89 80

83 6 80

8 18

88 1 80

8 23

88 84

8 40 15

88 61

8 84

88 42 80

9 81

84 28 80

9 88 80

84 87 16

9 53 20

84 89 80

9 49 10

84 45 80

9 55 48

84 60 2

9 58 40

84 46

9 88

85 4 10

9 55

86 86 40

10 19

85 50 20

10 82

85 42 40

10 58 10

85 46 80

11 8

85 89

11 15 10

85 49

10 89 40

10 69

85 26

11 27

86 27 80

11 82

86 84

11 48 80

86 54 80

12 25

86 27 80

12 26 45

86 80

12 83

86 41

12 85 80

86 46 80

12 42

86 66 80

12 27 65

87 7 47

18 8 40

87 64 60

18 17 10

87 47 10

18 20 5

87 51 6

18 26

88 17 20

18 11 10

RR 22 40

18 11

^ > 28 85

18 9 20

HH 27 40

18 9 20

8 81

18 25 80

M8 28 40

18 12 15

88 48 HO

18 12 80

88 49 55

18 84 20

8H 52

18 20 80

89 4

18 21 26

89 5 40

18 48 10

89 16 10

18 29

89 19 20

* The peographioal ponitioni here given frnm the Oulf sf FonKeoa MneUiiiTe) to Aoi^utU or Son-
■onata rotul are approiimate detartninationi by Com. J. W. Philip, of U.S.8. Tu$earora, 1B80.

■■Mil

GEOGRAPHICAL POBITIONS.

44t

Remedios reef (south point)

Bodegas or Acajutla light

San Jose, the beAch ... •••

Cv* XJUIB •■• ••• ••• ••• «•« ••• ■•• aaa •••

Champerico, white flagstaff ...

San Benito

Soeonasco bluff, Doable-headed volcano at the back of

v*UU • *•■ ••• ••• ••• •■• ••• ••• ••• •■•

San Francisco bar, village on the beach

Ventosa bay

Morro Ayaea, the point

Guatulco, port

Saerifieios, point '

Maldonado or Escondido point

Acapolco, San Diego fort gate

Bihuatauejo

Mangrove blnff

Lizard point

jt^iacK neaci.*. .•• ... ... ... ... ... ««. ...

Monnt Colima

Manzanilla bay, west end of village

Piedra Blanca, islet of

Navidad bay, cape Graham

Perula bay, liivas point

Gape Corrientes, extreme point of

Corventena rock

Maria islands, south-east island

,, San Juanito, the north-west island ...

San Bias, arsenal

„ Pieda del Mar

Isabel island

Chamatla river

Mazatlan, south bluff of Creston island

Piastla river, entrance

Guliacan (Altata) river, entrance

Ignacio point,

Ignacio island,

Agiabampo, cross on the hill

Lobes poiut, extremity

Gnaymas, cape Haro

,, Almagrito island

Angeles island, north end

River Colorado, Montague island at entrance

San Marcos island, centre

Mulege bay, entrance

Loreto village

Pulpito anchorage, point

Maugles anchorage, point

Carmen island, shore of Salinas bay

MontserrattMsland, centre

Catulinn iblaud, north end

San Jonof island, north end of Amortt^jada bay

Animas rocks

Espiritu Santo island, west end of Gollo islet (port
Ballena)

Latitnde,

Longitude,

O 1

18 29

18 84

13 53

14 18

14 20

14 48

15 54

16 18

16 10

15 51

15 45

15 48

16 18

16 50

17 88

101

17 54

102

18 11

108

18 86

103

19 24

103

19 8

104

19 6

104

19 10

104

19 84

105

20 25

105

20 44

105

21 20

106

21 45

106

21 82

105

21 84

105

21 61

105

22 60

105

28 11

106

28 42

106

24 86

107

25 86

109

25 26

109

26 16

109

27 J7

110

27 50

110

27 58

110

29 83

113

81 44

114

27 18

112

26 58

111

26 1

111

26 80

111

26 16

111

25 69

111

25 41

110

25 '

110

24 54

110

24 28

110

448

OEOGRAPKICAL POSITIONS.

Latitade, N.

Hi
i

Espiritn Santo island, south point of San Qabriel 1

San Juan Nepomezcino, south end of

Ceralbo island, south end

,, north end

San Jose del Gabo bay, Salatea village

Cape San Lucas, west end of Frayles rocks (San

Lucas bay)

Magdalena bay, east side of cape Corso

Cape San Lazaro

Ballenas bay, AbrejoB point

Asuncion island

San Bartolome bay, north-west point

Morro Hermoso

Natividad island, east end

Cerros island, north end

San Benito island, westernmost

Playa Maria bay, west point

Geronimo island

San Qoentin, west side of entrance ...

Colnett bay

Coronados islets,* highest and largest

San Diego, U.S. boundary obelisk ...

„ lighthouse on point Loma

San Glemente, north-west extremity of the island

Cortez shoal, the Bishop rock

San Nicolas, south-east end of the island

Santa Catalina, the great transverse break of the

island, (north side)

Santa Barbara island

San Pedro bay, edge of bluff at the landing

Anacapa, eastern point of the island

Point Hueneme

Prisoner's harbour, north side of Santa Cruz island

Cuyler's harbour

Santa Barbara, lighthouse

,, town, at the landing

Point Concepcion, lighthouse

Point Arguello

San Luis Obispo bay, the smnll gully west of the creek

San Simeon bay, near the landing

Piedras Blancas, outer one

Point Sur

Point Pinos, lighthouse

Santa Cruz harbour, the lauding place

Point Ano Nuevo

Point San Pedro

Farrallon, lighthouse

San Francisco, Point Lobos, S. head of entrance to
San Francisco bay

88
84
84
84

24 25

24 16 6

24 9

24 22

28 3 15

22 62 14

24 88 18

24 48 20

26 48

27 8
27 89 68
27 62

27 62 SO

28 19
28 15 SO

28 65 87

29 40 6
80 21 68
80 69 45
82 28 46
82 81 69
82 40 18
88 2
82 25 45
88 14 12

88 26 85

88 80

88 48 20

84 23 85

84 24 26

84 26 47

84 84

85 10 88
85 88 24

85 89

86 19
80 87 52
80 57 27

87 7
87 85 45
87 41 40

87 46 51

Longitude, W.

110 19
110 16 15
109 60
109 66

121
121
121
122

109 87 62

109 52
112 6

8
21

112 16 28
118 86
114 24

114 64 10

115 7

115 11 45

116 14

115 88 15
114 81 20

116 44
116 56 88

116 16 22

117 13 21
117 6 11

117 12 22

118 84

119 6
119 25

118 28 45

119 2

118 16

119 19
119 9

119 40

120 20 27
119 42 5

119 40 18

120 27
120 88

120 48 81

121 10 22

122 19
122 80 84
122 50 6

122 29 40

* The coographicnl pogitinns from Coronados i»l«t8 northward to the north point of Lummi
island in Hnro archipelago, are from the obRervationn of tho U.S. ConRt gnrvcynm.

The ponitiunK given in this table of plaoes in the Gulf and on tho Coast of Lower California differ
■lightly from the more leoent determinations of Commander G. Dewey, U.S.B. Nurragan$ttt i
$»* supplementary table Mo, 2, on a subsequent page.

OEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.

44d

Ban Francisco, Bincon point, N.W. of South park,
San Francisco bay
Telegraph hill, near the " San Fran

Cisco Observatory" ...
Fort point lighthonde
Point Bonita lighthouse ...
„ Alcatraz island light

Panta de los Reyes, landing in Drake's bay
„ lighthouse'i'

Bodega bay, west end of Sandy point

Haven's anchorage, the bluff at the landing

Mendocino bay, the bluff near the landing

Pnnta de Arena, N.W. extremity of the point

Shelter cove, ^point Delgado), the bluff near the landing

Cape Mendocino, extremity of cape

Humboldt bay, Bed bluff

,, lighthouse

Bucksport, town ... .^

Trinidad, town

Crescent City, lighthouse

Port Orford, the bluff W. of the town

Cape Orford, extremity of the cape

Cape Gregory or Arago, lighthouse ... ...

Umpquah, a mile from entrance to the river, (W. side)

Cape Perpetua, middle part of the headland

Cape Lookout, point farthest west

Cape Meares, N.W. part

Cape Falcon, or False Tillamook, northern part

Tillamook head

Astor point, near Astsria, Columbia river

Point Adams

Gape Disappointment, lighthouse

Leadbetter point

Cape Shoalwater, lighthouse .. -

Point Hanson

Olympia, end of wharf

Point Grenville, point of the bluff at the anchorage

Destruction island, north point

Flattery rocks, north-western rocky islet ...

Tatoosh island, lighthouse

Nee-ah bay, near the creek

Port Angelos, head of the bay

New Duugeness, lighthouse

Smith island, lighthouse

Poiut Wilson lighthouse

Port Townshend, extremity of point Hudson

Admiralty head, lighthouse

Port Gamble, East point

Restoration point, Admiralty inlet

Lummi, Sand point on the N.E. side of the island

Latitude, N.

87 47 7

87 47 58

87 48 81

87 49 4

87 49 27

87 69 85

87 59 89

88 18 20

88 47 58

89 18
88 67
40 1
40 25
40 44 40
40 46 4

40 46 87

41 8 20

41 44 84

42 44 22

42 60
48 20 88

43 41 45

44 19

45 20
45 80
45 47

45 68

46 11 28
46 12 80
46 16 83
46 86 45
46 44 11

46 53 44

47 8
47 20 44

47 41

48 12
48 23 16
48 21 49
48 7 52
48 10 59
48 19 11

8 43
7 8

9 22
47 51 82

47 85 6

48 44 2

48
48
48

Longitude, W.

o / //

122 22 82

122 28 10

122 27 88

122 80 50

122 24 19

122 57 86

123 13
123 2 17
123 84 1
123 47 26

123 45

124 8
124 22
124 10 80
124 12 21
124 10 44
124 8 8
124 11 22
124 80 40
124 83 2
124 22 11

9 67

124
124

124

123 58
123 58

124
124
124

123 69
123 49 82

123 56 56

124 2

13
45
2 24
6 54

122 56
124 14 54
124 25
124 43
124 43 50
124 87 12

123 27 21

123 6 7
122 50 11
122 45 5

124 44
122 40
122 83 50
122 28 15
122 40 87

26
8

'*i

* The geographical posiUons of lighthouses on the const of the United States given in this tahle
(attracted from the U.S. Coant Pilot 18G9) will be found to ditfer slightly from those given in the
tail, which are taken from the U.S. Lighthouse liat for 1680, published by the Lighthouse Board.

I'!

460

GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.

Yanoouveb Island and Coast adjoining.*

Discovery island, east point

Trial islands, south point

Victoria harbour, Laurel point

Esquimau harbour, Duntze head

Albert head, extremity

Race islands, lighthouse

Beechey head, extremity

Sooke inlet, Secretaiy island ...

Sherriugham point, extremity

Port San Juan, Pinnacle rock on north side of bay . .

Bonilla point, extremity

Tsusiat wateifall

Bai'clay sooiid, extremity of cape Beale

,, Observatory islet, in Island harbour

„ Observatory islet, in Stamp harbour,

Albemi canal

Portland point, Gowlland rocks

Point Cox, Vargas cone

Clayoquot sound. Observatory island in Hecato bay

Befage cove, village on west side

Hesquiat harbour. Boat cove

Estevan point, south extremity

Nootka sound. Observatory islet in Friendly cove ...
Nuchatlitz inlet, North-west cone on Ferrer point ...

,, Col wood islet in port Langford

Esperanza inlet, Observatory rock in Queen cove . . .

„ Tat-chu point

Kyuquot sound, the shingle point at entrance of Nar-

rowgut creek

Barrier islands. Highest islands

Nasparti inlet, Sulivan reef

,, beach at its head

Cape Cook, Salander islet

Klaskino inlet, Nob point

Quatsiuo inlet, Observatoi7 rock in North harbour ...
„ Observatory islet in Koprino harbour

,, Kitten islet in Hecate cove

Cape Scott, summit of cape

Scott islands, west point of Triangle island

Hope island, north point of ludluu island in Bull

harbour

Goletas channel, islet in centre of port Alexander ...

Beaver harbour, Shell islet

Cormorant island, Yellow bluff in Alert bay

Port Harvey (British Columbia), Tide pole islet

Port Neville (British Columbia), Bobbers nob»

Thurlow island, stream at head of Knox bay

Quathiasky cove. South point of islutfd of Yaldes island
Baynes sound, Beak point in Henry bay

Latitude, N.

48 25 20

48 28 80

48 25 22

48 25 49

48 28 7

48 17 45

48 18 80

48 19 85

48 22 80

48 88 80

48 85 80

48 41 80

48 47 48

48 64 41

40 18 46

49 8 80

49 6 no

49 15 22

49 20 60

49 27 81

49 22 7

49 35 81

49 44 60

49 47 20

49 52 45

49 61 80

49 69 55

49 57 45

50 4 80
60 11 21
50 6 81
50 17 15
50 29 25
50 80
60 82 26
50 46 41
60 61 68

Longitode, W.

128 18 40

128 18 46

128 28 2

128 26 45
128 29

128 82 16

128 89 80

123 42 40
128 66 50

124 27 87
124 44 80

124 68

125 12 52
125 16 54

124 60 7
126 61 80

125 62 80

125 66 17

126 16 40
126 25 27
126 82 82
126 87 82
126 58 50
126 67 5

126 59 55

127 10

127

127 21
127 41

9 80
80

50 54

50 CO

50 42

50 85

50 88

60 81

60 24

60 2

49 86

127 87 58

127 67 20

127 52

128 8 89
127 52 16

127 36 18

128 26 46
6

129

127 56 8
127 39 67
127 25
126 67

7
80

126 16 40

126 4
125 89
125 14
124 61

38
18

TheRe lonnitudoa, from the Admiralty charts, are dependent upon Duntze head, Es^nimalt har-
bour, being iu long'. 123" 20' 4i5" W.

GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.

451

Latitude, N.

Longitade, W.

Nanoose harbonr, Entrance rock

Howe Bonnd C British Columbia j, Plumper cove
Bnrrard inlet (British Columbia J, English bay, Got-

ernment reserve

Eraser river entrance (British Columbia), Military

barracks at New Westminster

Eraser river entrance (British Columbia), Garry point
Point Roberts (British Columbia j. Parallel station,

WoS V Slud •»• ■■• ••• ■■• •*• ■•• ■■•

Semiahmoo bay (British Columbia), Parallel station
Nanaimo harbour. Dr. Benson's house

Eort Simpson, Dixon sound

Portland canal, entrance

ToBgas harbour, anchorage

Wrangle island, Etolin harbonr
Stikine river, south-east point of entrance
Mount Edgecumbe, on west side of Sitka sound
Sitka, U.S. Coast Survey astronomical station
Sitka, cupola of governor's house

The IsiiANDS off the Coast.

Cocos island, Chatham bay

Malpelo island

Clipperton rock

Socorro island, Braithwaite bay . ...

San Benedicto island

Roea Partida

Clarion island, east side of Sulphur bay

Alijos rocks

Gnadalonpe, north point

Queon Charlotte islands, extremity of cape St. James
„ „ Forsyth point in Stewart

channel ..^

„ „ Cumshowas inland on the

north side of entrance to
Cumshewas harbour
„ „ Rock on bar of Skidegate bay

„ ,, Rose spit point

,^ „ Bar of Masset harbonr

,, „ Capo Edensaw in Virago

sound

,f „ North point of North island

„ ,^ Cape Knox

„ pp Sansum island in port Kuper

^9 IS 48
49 24 89

49 16 18

49 18
49 7

49
49

49 10 15
54 83 85

54 42

55 8
6(J 81 80
66 40
57 2 48
57 2 52
57 2 47

5 82 57

10 17 0?

18 42 57

19 19
19
18 20 80
24 57 25
29 10 50
51 57

52 9 7

53 1

53 22

54 IS
54 2
64 4

54 20

54 15

62 66 81

124 8 6
128 29 fib

128 12

122 54 26
128 12 1

123 5 26
122 45 80
128 56 86
180 22 49
180 25

131 25

132 20
182 20
135 40
135 17 45
185 17 8

86 68 22
81 32

109 10 0?

110 56 53
110 49
112 7

114 45

115 47 80
118 18 80?
131 4 0?

181 9

131 22
131 39

131 22

132
132 14

133 0?
133 8
132 9 40

462

OEOOBAPmCAL POSITIONS.

SUPPLEMENTARY TABLE OF POSITIONS, No. 1.

The following positions by M. Lapelin of tbe French snrrejing vessel La Brilliants
in 1852, were determined by astronomical observations and chronometers ; they are
dependent npon the longitnde of Callao, bat nnfortanately M. Lapelin does not state
in his work what he considered that longitade to be. Those with an * attached were
determined by triangalation.

Gnlf of Dnlce, honse of the French Co., at Pnnta

Ar6Dltft3 ■•• ■•• ••• ••• ••» •■• •••

* Gulf of Nicoya, cape Blanco islet

,» ,,

Castom-hoase at Pnnta Arenas, gnlf of Nicoya

Miravelles volcano (position very doubtful)

Orosi volcano, 8665 feet ...

San Jnan del Sor, house of the American Co. ... ...

Ometepe volcano, 5008 feet

Madera volcano, 4104 feet

Mombacho volcano, 4501 feet

* Momo'tombo volcano, 8996 feet

fj fy ••• ••• ■•• •■•

* Telica volcano, 8187 feei

ff ff ••• ■■■ ••• ••• •■•

* Las Pilas volcano, 8015 feet

yy yy ••• ••• ••• •••

* Viejo volcano, 5898 feet

jf yf ••* ••• ■•• ••• ■••

Bealejo, north-west extremity of Cardon island

* Coseguina volcano, 2848 feet ?

,, J, • ••• •••

Point Consegnina

Gulf of Fonseca, M. Dardano's house at Amapala
(Tigre island)

* Tigre island, summit, 2986 feet

* Amapala volcano, 4844 feet

Port Jiquilisco

* San Miguel volcano, 6529

,, ,»

* San Vincents volcano, 6928

»» >> ■•

* Biver Lempa, entrance

>» >j

Mount Virola

* Port Libertad

»» »»

* San Salvador volcano, 6480 feet ...

* Point Remedies

1' Isalco volcano, 4973 feet

• ■ • • • •

Latitude, N*

Longitude, W.

o / r/

• / //

8 82 22

88 26 4

9 84

86 9 14

84 16

85 18 51

9 56 45

84 69 12

10 89 40

84 13 61

10 57 14

86 26 68

11 15 25

86 67

11 41 45

85 26 86

11 84

85 2 21

11 65 26

85 67 11

12 26 24

86 89 87

12 26 48

86 84 68

12 84 46

86 64 7

12 81 65

86 66 11

12 28 24

86 48 7

12 85 40

86 47 44

12 48 14

87 4 47

12 47 7

87 2 11

12 27 17

87 18 42

87 87 19

12 59

87 40 51

12 59 80

87 50 61

18 18 58

87 45 1

18 18

87 42 46

18 18 19

87 54 84

18 18

87 57 51

18 12 0?

88 28 51?

18 25 80

88 17 21

18 26 45

88 19 57

18 85

88 69 6

18 86 20

88 69 9

18 18 9

88 50 18

13 11

88 50 61

18 26

88 82 51

18 26 80

89 22 61

18 28 80

89 22 51

18 48 80

89 21 21

18 49 10

89 19 1

18 84 80

89 68 11

18 47

90 45 61

18 60 18

89 44 26

GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.

458

Latitude, N.

LonRitude, W.

Acajntla, flagstaff

18 87 27

O f II

89 64 10

* Moant Apaneca, 5716 feet

18 50 10

89 59 21

* Mono des los Esclavos, 4829 feet

14 80

90 10 51

»> i»

14 1 52

90 12 2

* Pacayo Tolcano, G975 feet

14 25 80

90 40 51

»» >>

14 26

90 40 51

* Fuego volcano, 14,008 feet

14 83

90 59 81

II II

14 81 60

91 11

Istapa, flagstaff

18 56 16

90 47 6

* Agna Tolcrano, 18,471 feet

14 82 10

90 50 21

II II •••

14 82 50

90 50 81

* AtitlanTolcano, 11,618 leet

14 86 80

91 17 11

SUPPLEMENTARY TABLE OP POSITIONS, No. 2.

The following positions were eiitablished by Commander George Dewey, United

States Steamer Narragansett, 1874.*

La Paz, EI Mogote

Point Lapona

Pnnta Arena

Pichilinque

N.E. point of Ceralbo island

S.W. point of Ceralbo island

Observation point

Ban Jose del Gabo

Cape San Lucas...

Todos Santos (Point Lobos)

Cape Tosco

Cape Redondo ...

Magdalena bay, (Sir E. Belcher)

Point Entrada ...

Cape Lazaro

Boca Soledad

Boca San Domingo

Boca San Georgia

Point San Jaanico

Point San Domingo

Abreojos point ...

Todos Santos point

Colnett bay

Ban Martin's island

Port Saa Quentin

San Geronimo island

Playa Maria bay

Lagoon bead

Cerros island

Benito islands ...

San Bartholome bay

Asuncion island . . .

24
24

10
24

9
16

2.4

110 19 58

110 19 45

109 60 85

110 20 8
109 66 8
100> 52 21
lOO' 28 80
109. 40 15
10& 54 33
llOi 18 52:

111 43 45
1 84
8 50i
8 4»

113
112
112

112 18 80>

112
112
112

7
7
8

112 18 14
112 42 25
118 85 82
116 87 65
116 17 22
116 6 80
115 59 69
115 47 44
114 81

114 5

115 10 49
115 86 11
114 54 15
114 17 50

56
85

• The longitudes depend upon that of San Diego, Cal., being in 117° 9' 40" W., latitude 82" 43' 6" N.
Observation spot near astreaomical station of 1877, marked bj a brick monument.

JAMES IMRAY & SON,

OHAET AND NAUTICAL BOOK PUBLISHERS,
89 & 102, MINORIES LONDON, E.

NEW PUBLICATIONS.

m j

,ii i.

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I '

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* 80TTTB AsniBiOA (Chart iTo. 3 , including Magellan strait, the Falkland islands

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NEW PUE LIGATIONS.

465

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OaUao to Point San Hleolaa. With plans of Gallao, Ghinca islands, Paraca bay, port
Chilca, the channel within Gallan island and Independencia bay. Limits :
latitude 11° 50' to 15° 17' S 4s. Od.

Tatt San Mlcoias to cem«jo Point. With plans of ports San Nicolas, San Juan,
Atico, Lomas, Quilca, and the anchorage in front of Qnilca. Limits : latitude
15° 0' to 17° 0' 8 - 4s. Od.

Oomaje Point to oapo x«bea. With plans of ports Mollendo, Hay, Arica, and Ylo.
Limits : latitude 16° 40' to 19° 0' S 4s. Od.

Capo iMhom to Gap* Paqniea. With plans of Chipana, Patillos, Mexillon, and Pisagna
bays ; the anchorages of Pabellon de Pica and Iquique, &c. &c. Limits : latitude
l6° 80' to 22° 0' S 4s. Ud.

Capo Paqniea to Port P'^oao. With plans of the anchorages of Algodon, Gobija,
Angamos, Constitucion, Ghimba, Antofagasta, and El Gobre. Limits : latitude
21° 50' to 25° 10' S 4s. Od.

Port Papoae to Harradnra Bay. With plans of Carrisals, Taltal, Paposa, Gopiapc,
Pajonel cove, Herradura, Gbaneral, and Tortoralillo bays, Caldero, Yngles,
Flamenco, and Lavata bays. Limits: latitude 25° S. to 28° 10' S. 4s. Od.

Barradnra Bay to Xivar x.iniari. With plans of Huasco, Goquimbo, and Herradura
bays, Tonf'oy bay, Ghaneral island and bay, Pena Blanca, Ghoros and Apolillado
bays. Limits : latitude 28° S. to 81° S 48. Od.

Bivar xamarl to Toro Point. With plans of Valparaiso bay, Lagunilla bay, port
Papudo, Quintero bay, Maytencillo cove, Pichidanque bay, Algarrobo bay, Ligua
roadstead, Gonchali bay and neighbouring coast, Ghigualoco bay, port San
Antonio, &c. Limits : latitude 80° 50' S. to 83° 49' S 4s. Od.

Toro Point to oolinmo Bay. With plans of LUcO and Guranipe roads, Coluimo br v,
Tamana bay, Topocalma roadstead, and entrance to Maule river. Limits : lati-
tude 83° 43' S. to latitude 86° 35' 8. 4s. Od.

CoUumo Bay to Biver Tenelianchico. With plans of Goncepcion bay, Goronel and
Lota bays, Santa Maria island, San Vicente bay. Mocha island, port Yanez,
Quidico or Nena port, Queule bay, river Lebu, river Imperial, and river Tolten,
&c. Limits: latitude 86° 25' 8. to latitude 89° 11' S 4s. Od.

BiTor TenaUenchieo to Port San Carlos. With plans of Port San Garlos (Ancud),
Valdivia, Queule bay, Tolten river, Lamehuapi cove, Gondor cove, Muicolpue
cove, San Pedro bay, Ranu cove, and Milagro cove. Limits : latitude 89° 0' 8.

to 41° 52' 8 48. Od.

• The above one-sheet charts, from tba river Guayaquil to Port San Carlos, are all on the same

scale (about 111 inches to a degree of Longitude), and from the most recent English, Chilian, and

French surveys ; each contains plans of the harbours contained within its limits, and Sailing

Directions for making the ports.

- \

' 'i

West Coast of North America.

WBBT COAST Of AKBBXCA-Panama to San Blaa : on three large sheets. With
plans, on a large scale, of Panama road, Nicoya gulf, the harbours of Acapulco,
Guatulco, San Carios, Realejo, Salinas, Gulebra, Punta Arenas, Arenitas, San
Bias, &c. &e 12s. Od.

.11

NEW PUBLICATIONS.

OAXitrOMfXA (OOAflT Of), ■howlnK the Ooaat flrom San BUa to BUI Frueiaeo Bay,

on two large sheets, with plans of the harbours of Mazatlan, Magdalona bay,
Gnaymas, Monterey, San Francisco, &c. Compiled chiefly from the United
States Coast survey, the surveys executed by the naval officers employed by the
UvS. Hydrographic OflSee, and the surveys made by English and French naval
officers ... 10s. Od,

OBBQOH and VAKComnix isLflkHS (COAST of). On two large sheets. With
many plans of harbours, including St. Juan de Fuca strait, Port Victoria, Nootka
sound, Port San Juan, Beecher and Pedder bays, and Esquimalt harbour 10s. Od.

ni \

Pacific Ocean.

■OBTB FACzrxo OOBAH. (The Equator to latitude 69° N., and from longitude
60° W. to 110° E.). On three large sheets. The plans of islands and harbours
are about forty in number ... 12s. Od.

•OWB PACino OOXAIC. On three large sheets. With about forty plans of
islands and harbours ••• 12b. Od.

VAOXriO OOBAW (ttaa aoutbom or lowar part). A chart for Ihe navigation between

South-eastern Australia and Cape Horn, showing also the northern limit of ice-

' bergs in the Southern Ocean, and specially intended for use hh a track chart.

The beat routes to Cape Horn are laid down. Limits, latitude 25° B. to 70° S.,

longitude 185° E. to 50° W Sa. Od.

* VAOXrzo OOBAH (Waatam part:of,—Ko. 1). Shows the navigation between Eastern

Australia and New Zealand. With plans of Cook strait. Port Jackson, Auckland
islands. Port Nicholson, &o. Limits, latitude 80° to 58° 50' S., longitude
143° E. to 175° 10' W 8s. Od.

* VAOxrzo ocBAir (Waatam part of,— No. a). Shows the navigation northward irom

Sydney (Eastern Australia) and New Zealand to Torres strait, and through the
New Hebrides, &o. Limits, latitude 0° to 88° S., longitude 140° to 172" 40' E.

8b. Od.

* PAOZrxo oOBAir cwaatam part of,— No. a). Limits, latitude 8° B. to 85° 80' N.,

longitude 150° E. to 177° 20' W. In this chart there are about forty plans of
the principal islands and harbours met with in the route from Australia to China
and Japan ... ... •■' ••• ••• ••• *•• ••• 8s. Od.

' FACXrxo OOBAN (Waatarn part of,— Ho. 4). Shows the navigation from New
Guinea to Japan. Limits, latitude 8° S. to 85° 80' N., longitude 120° to
152° 40' E 8s. Od.

* rAOirio OOBAH (Waatam part of,— Ho.RA). Shows the navigation from New Zea-

land to the Fiji auu Samoa islands, &o. LimiiH, latitude 0° to 88' S., lougitude
172° E. to 155° 80' W 8s. Od.

* PAOirxo OOBAH (Waatarn part of,-Ho. s). Shows Tahiti, the Tnuamotou, Mar-

quesas islauds, &c. Limits, latitudu 0° to 88" S., lougitude 157" 80' to 125° W.

8s. Od.

* PAOirxo OOBAH (Waatam part of,— Ho. 7). Shows tho Hawaii islands, &o.

Limits, lautuJe 8° S. to 85° 80' N., longitude 175)" 80' to 1 17" W. Ss. Od.

* These ohartd abow the island portion of the I'noifio on thti larRest toslc yet published. The
series consists of seven oliarts, eacli ounsistuig of two large siieots ; hence it nouiprises fourteen
■lieeti. An Incos Chart auoompauies tho set.

CATALOGUE, 1 883.

CHARTS,

Works on Navigation,

AND

NAUTICAL INSTRUMENTS,

Sfc, &c. &c.

rUULISHEl) 1!V

JAMES IMRAY & SON,

89 and 102, Minories, London, E.

Established i7f'3-

•/ Af<,y h* obiaiHfd at every British Seafort and at nutHtrvHS Fon-ign Paris. CorrtttcndenU,
u<l,tn gim„e orders, ar, ,p<,rlic»larly rt<!ScsUd to refer to this Catalogue, and also to mention
its date.

ADDRESS.

On publishing a new Catalogue, we 'avail ourselves of the opportunity
to thank our numerous Correspondents and Nautical Friends for the
kind patronage with which they have hitherto favoured us, and for the
very valuable and useful information we are constantly receiving from
them. The high estimation accorded to our publications for their
accuracy is chiefly to be attributed to the assistance so received; on
this ground we are always ready and happy to receive suggestions
tending to the improvement of any of our Works.

At the present time many hydrographical surveys are being carried
on, not only by our own Government, but by the Governments of
Foreign Countries, and it may be expected that the intelligence and
skill of surveyors, furnished with superior instruments, will materially
extend our knowledge of important coasts and seas, annually becoming
more and more frequented by our mercantile navy. It has always
been our aim to keep pace with the rapid advance of hydrogiaphical
science, and to introduce to the nautical world, as early as possible,
the most recent additions and improvements in every department ;
consequently, we flatter ourselves tliat for accuracy and extent of
information our numerous publications cannot be surpassed. Everything
new and valuable to the navigator is immediately embodied in our
Charts and Sailing Directories, and will continue to be so, in u/der
that the high character our works have already acquired for correctness
and utility may be fully maintained.

%• Coppespondents ape peminded that when giving opdeps
mention should be made of the date of the Catalogue
used; if the leading wopds and ppice of each apticle
be also stated, there will be less ppobability of
miistake.

Cash pemittances are pequlped to accompany the flpst
opdep.

When measupement is given of Chapts fitted fop the
Counting House, the flpst dimension is the width,
and the F>econd the length hanging down.

ft '

•A

CHARTS.

T/ie World, and Track Charts,

THE WORLD, on Mercator's Projection, on tight sheets, compiled from
recent surveys and astronomical observations. This publication, embracing the two-
fold properties of Chart and Map, is equally useful to the mariner and merchant,
and IS well adajHetl as an embellishment to a cabin, counting-house, or library.
On cloth and rollers for Counting-house, coloured and

varnished ; size 6 ft. I in. by 4 ft. II in. 63/

THE WORLD, on Mercator's Projection, reduced from the preceding one, on

one sheet. Size 41 in. by 27 in 5/-

On cloth for Captains' use 6/3

On cloth and rollers for Counting-house, coloured and

varnished ; size 41 in. by 27 in. 15/-

THE WORLD. An outline chart intended foi ♦he purpose of marking off a
ship's track. It is also a Variation Chart ; having the lines of equal variation to

every 2' marked upon it. On three sheets 12/-

On cloth for Captains' use 15/9

On cloth and rollers fur Counting-house, coloured and

varnished ; size 6 ft. 5 in. by 3 ft. $

31/6

This Churt li.is the Orc.it Circle Tracks marked upon it, .ind is very useful Ip travellers proceeding
abroad, as with its assistance they will be enabled In keep a daily re -oril of the ship's progress towards
the pott of deatinittion. Useful also for a Ship and Insurance Urokcr's Ufficc.

1 "?

1 iP

A a

" i

¥ i

m i\ I i!

lO,

II.

20.

21.

yames Imray and Son's Catalogue,

England, Scotland, and Ireland.

ENGLISH CHANNEL (Downs to Scilly Islands). With plans of many
of the principal harbours. Compiled from recent British and French surveys.
On three sheets. This Chart is on a very large scale and is accompanied with a

Book of Sailing Directions 12/-

On cloth for Captains' use 15/9

On cloth and rollers for Counting-house, coloured and

varnished ; size 6 ft. 5 in. by 3 ft. 5 in. 31/6

ENGLISH and BRISTOL CHANNELS, Ac. (Downs to the Bristol
Channel and River Shannon). On three large sheets. With numerous plans

of harbours. Accompanied vrith a Book of Directions 12/-

On cloth for Captains' use 15/9

On cloth and rollers for Counting-house, coloured and

varnished ; size 6 ft. $ in. by 3 ft. 5 in. 31/6

ENGLISH CHANNEL (Eastern Portion of), on two sheets, showing the
navigation eastward of Beachy Head, or long. 0° 10' E., and exhibiting the Strait
of Dover on a very large scale. With numerous plans of harbours. Illustrated

with views of the coast. Scale 19^ in. to 1° of longitude 8/-

On cloth for Captains' use lo/6

On cloth and rollers, coloured and varnished 21/-

THREE CHANNEL CHART. This chart shows the navigation from Hull
and London to Bristol, Liverpool, Dublin, Cork, and Galway. It contains plans
of the principal harbours, is illustrafetl with numerous views of the coast, and

accompanied with a Book of Sailing Directions 16/-

On cloth for Captains' use 21/-

On cloth and rollers for Counting-house, coloured and

vamishal ; size 6 ft, 6 in. by 4 ft. 3 in. 42/-

RIVER THAMES (Sea Reach to Orfordness and the Downs), with plans
of the River Thames from Sea Reach to London, Harwich, and Ramsgatc Harbours.

On two large sheets. Accompanied with a Book of Directions 8/-

On cloth for Captains' use ... ... ... ... ... 10/6

On cloth and rollers for Counting-house, coloured and

varnished ; size 4 ft. 4 in. by 3 ft. S in 21/-

RIVER

sheet

THAMES, from Ramsgate and Orfordness to the Nore.

One

4/
On cloth for Captains' use 5/3

RIVER THAMES and STRAIT of DOVER (Orfordness and London to
Beachy Head). With plans of Harwich, Ramsgate, Folkestone, Dover, Calais,
and Boulogne Harbours. On two large sheets. Accompanied with a Book of

Directions 8/-

On cloth for Captains' use 10/6

On cloth .ind rollers for Counting-house, coloured and

varnished ; size 3 ft. 5 in. by 4 ft. 4 in. 2l/-

STRAIT of DOVER, showing the south-east coast of England from Ram.sgate
to Beachy Head, and the opposite coast of France from Calais to Boulogne.
With jilans of Ram.sgate, Dover, Folkestone, Calais, and Boulogne Harbours.
Illustrated with numerous views of the coast. The scale is very large, being 19^

in. to 1° of longitude. One sheet 4/-

On cloth for Captains' use 5/3

ENGLAND (East Coast of), from Dungeness to the River Tyne, with
plans on a large scile of the River 1 lumber, Yarmouth Roads, Bridlington Bay,
River Tyne, Hartlepool, Sunderland, &c. On four large sheets. Illustrated
with numerous views of the coast. With a Book of Sailing Directions ... 12/-

On cloth for Captains' use .. ... 17/-

On cloth and rollers for Counting-house, coloured and

varnished ; size 8 ft. 6 in. by 3 ft, 5 in 42/-

ENGLAND (East Coast of), from Dungeness to Plamborough Head,
with plans of Yarmouth Roads, Bridlington Bay, and the River Humber, On three

sheets. With a Book of Directions 10/-

On cloth for Captains' use 1 3/9

On cloth and rollers for Counting-house, coloured and

varnished ; size 6 ft. 6 in. by 3 ft. 5 in. 31/6

'rj.,,.,~J!!^:",vswgg:g^^^

Minories, London,

22. ENGLAND (East Coast of), from Orfordness to Flamborough Head,

with plans of the RiVer H umber, V'armouth Roads, and Bridlington Bay, and
illustrated with views of the coast. On two sheets. Accompanied with a Book

of Directions 8/-

On cloth for Captains' use 10/6

On cloth and rollers for Counting-house, coloured and
varnished ; size 4 ft. 4 in. by 3 ft. 5 in ai/-

NoTR. — This chart and \. t charts of the Estuary of ihe Thames, Nos. 8, 9, or 10, will show the
n.ivigatioii from Dover and ondon to Hull, on a very larg cale.

23. ENGLAND (East Coast of), from Orfordness to Flamborough Head.

On one sheet. Drawn from recent Admiralty Surveys ... ... ... 4/-

On cloth for Captains' use 5/3

24. EAST COAST OF ENGLAND, from Orfordness to the River Tyne,

with plans on a large scale of the River Humber, Yarmouth Roads, Bridlington
Bay, Sunderland, Whitby, Scarborough, Hartlepool, and the River Tyne. On
three large sheets. With descriptive notes of the harbours, views of headlands,
and of the coast. Accompanied with u Book of Sailing Directions ... 10/-

On cloth for Captains' use 13/9

On cloth and rollers for Counting-house, coloured and

varnished ; size 6 ft. 5 in. by 3 ft. 5 in ... 31/6

Note. — This chart, with Nos. 8, 9, or 10, will show the navi(;alion from London or the Downs to
Newcastle on a very large scale.

25. YARMOUTH and LOWESTOFT ROADS. A small plan chart, showing

all the leading marks, lights, &c. .. ... ... ... l/-

220. ENGLAND and SCOTLAND (the Coast included between Flamborough
Head and the Shetland Islands). On four large sheets. Compiled from
recent surveys. With plans of almost all the harbours included within its limits.

Accompanied with a Book of Directions ... ... ... 14/-

On cloth for Captains' use .. .. 19/-

This chart shows the east coa.st of the British Islands northward of Flamborough Head on a very large
scale. If taken with charts Nos. 8 or 10, and aa it will show the navigation from the Downs to the
Shetland islands; or, with chart No. ai from Dungeness to Lerwick ; or it may accompany chart No. 38
(page 7).

Or, the chart may be had in two parts —

FLAMBOROUGH HEAD to KINNAIRD HEAD. With a Book of

Directions 8/-

to the ORKNEYS and SHETLAND. With a

8/-

220a.

220b. KINNAIRD HEAD

Book of Directions

16, ENGLAND and SCOTLAND (the Coast included between Flamborough
Head and the Orkneys), being the three southern sheets of chart No. 220.
With plans of all the principal harbours included within its limits. With a Book

ofDirections 12/-

On cloth for Captains' use 15/9

On cloth and rollers for Counting-house, coloured and

varnished ; size 6 ft. 5 in. by 3 ft. 5 in. 31/6

27. ENGLAND and SCOTLAND (East Coast of), from Flamborough
Head to the Orkney Islands, with plans of Harbours, and a full description of
the signals exhibited at Sunderland anil Hartlepool. Compiled (rom recent
surveys. One sheet. A reduction of chart No. 220 ... ... ... 4/-

On cloth for Captains' use S/3

221. ENGLAND and SCOTLAND (the Coast included between Flamborough
Head and the Firths of Forth and Tay). Compiled from recent surveys.
With plans of Scarborough, Filey bay. Tees bay and Hartlepool. Seaham, .Sun-
derland, the entrance to the Tyne, Blyth, Berwick, Farn islands. Holy Tsland
hiirbour. Coquet island and channel, Leith harbour, Dundee, Arbroath aud Mont-
rose. Accompanied with a Book of Directions ... ... ... ... 14/-

On cloth for Captains' use 19/-

Thi.H inagnificenl chart is on four large sheets, and shows the coast on the largest sciile yet published,
the scale being i8i ir-hc» to ft Degree of Longitude. With charts Nos. 8 and aa it .shows the naviga-
tion between the Downs and the Kirlli of Tay ; or with Nos. ao or at, the navigation between the b^iighsh
Channel and the coast of Scotland as far northward as Montrose ; or it may be taken as an accompaniment
to chart No. 38. Shipmasters proceeding to Leith or Dundee arc also reconmiended to provide them-
selves with chart No. 19,

I I

' ;i:

I' i:i

!■ I.!

James Imray and Son's Catalogue,

\ i

\ f

22a. COAL PORTS of YORKSHIRE, DURHAM, and NORTHUMBER-
LAND. The coast of England included between Flamborough head
and Coquet island ; being the two southern sheets of chart No. 221. With plans
of Whitby, Scarborough, the entrance to the Tees and Hartlepool bay, Seaham,
Sunderland, the entrance to the T)me, Blyth, and Coquet roadstead . . . 8/-

On cloth for Captains' use 10/6

This is a very useful publication for shipmasters bound from southward to any of the ports between
Bridlington bay and Warlcworth. It is a convenient accompaniment to charts Nos. 8 or 10, with 21 or 33 ;
or it may accompany chart No. 38.

29. FIRTHS of FORTH and TAY. This chart of the rivers is on a very large scale

and contains plans of the harbours of Leith, Granton, Burntisland, Anstruther,
Crail, Pittenweem, Kirkcaldy, Dysart, Buckhaven, Elie, St. Andrews, Dundee,
Arbroath, &c. &c. Accompanied by a Book of Sailing Directions, which con-
tains Coloured Drawings of the Signals used at the various Ports. On two

sheets ... 8/-

On cloth for Captains' use 10/6

30. FIRTHS of FORTH and TAY. With plans of Leith roadstead, and several

of the most important Harbours. On one sheet, and on a much smaller scale
than Chart No. 29. Accompanied with a Book of Sailing Directions . . . 5/~

31. WEST COAST and ISLANDS of SCOTLAND (from the Mull of Cantyre

to Cape Wrath and the Lewis Islands). On three large sheets. With plans of

harbours. Accompanied with a Book of Directions 12/-

On cloth for Captains' use 15/9

3a. NORTH COAST of SCOTLAND (Cape Wrath to PenUand Firth) including

the Orkney Islands. One lai^e sheet S/-

On cloth for Captains' use 6/3

19. FIRTH of CLYDE and NORTH CHANNEL, showing the navigation

;ow and

le intro-

8/-

10/6

along the north coast of Ireland, and from the Irish Channel to Gla:
Greenock. Drawn from recent Admiralty surveys and improved by tl
duction of several plans of harbours. On two large sheets

On cloth for Captains' use ...

On cloth and rollers for Counting-house, coloured and

varnished ; size 4 ft. 4 in. by 3 ft. 5 in. 24/-

13. BRISTOL CHANNEL (Hartland Point and the Smalls to Bristol and

Gloucester). On three large sheets. Drawn from recent Admiralty surveys, and

accompanied with a Book of Directions 10/-

On cloth for Captains' use 13/9

On cloth and rollers for Counting-house, coloured and

varnished ; size 5 ft. 2 in. by 3 ft. 3 in. 31/6

14. IRISH (or St. GEORGE'S) and BRISTOL CHANNELS (Trevose

Head, Cornwall, to the Firth of Clyde), with numerous plans of harbours, and
illustrated with views of the coast, lighthouses, beacons, &c. On three large
sheets. Drawn from recent Admiralty surveys, and accompanied with a Book of

Directions 12/-

On cloth for Captains' use 15/9

On cloth and rollers for Counting-house, coloured and

varnished ; size 6 ft. 5 in. by 3 ft. 5 in. 31/6

«6l. IRISH AND BRISTOL CHANNELS. The same chart ns No. 14, but
with a Supplementary Sheet to show the navigation southward, round Cornwall
and the Scilly Islands, as far eastward as Plymouth and Dartmouth. With plans
of harbours, and of the Longships rocks. Limits: latitude 49° 36' to 56° i' N,
longitude 2° 32' to 7° 20^ W. With a Book of Directions 14/-

•«* This chart, with No. 4, will show the navigation from the Downs to ilristol, Cardiff, Dublin,
Liverpool, Belfast, and Glasgow.

15. IRELAND (The West, South-West, and North Coasts of), from Water-

ford to L<jugh Foyle. An accompanying chart to that of the Irish Channel,
Nos. 14 or 261 precetling. Compiled from recent Admiralty surveys. With a

Book of Directions. On three large sheets 12/-

On cloth for Captains' use 15/9

On cloth and rollers for Counting-house, coloured and
varnished ; size 6 ft. 5 in. by 3 ft. 5 in 31/6

Minories, London.

i6.« NAVIGATION round IRELAND, with numerous plans of harbours. With

Sailing Directions 12/-

On cloth for Captains' use 17/-

On cloth and rollers for Counting-house, coloured and

varnished ... ... 31/6

* This publication (No. 16) was formerly issued in this form only, but its size being very inconvenientj it
is now also arranged in two charts. An advantage which follows from this is, that we are enabled to give
more plans of harbours than hitherto. The chart is divided into two, as follows (Nos. 17 and i8j,
but in this form is not accompanied with a Book of [Directions. A Book for each chart can be had if
required, at an extra charge.

*7-

18.

206.

IRISH CHANNEL. With plans of Belfast, North Rocks, Maidens, &c., Tuskar
Rocks, Skerries Rocks, &c., Milford Haven, South Coast of Man, and entrance

to Lough Foyle 5/-

On cloth for Captains' use 7/6

West Coast of IRELAND. With plans of Clew Bay, Broadhaven, Killala Bay,
Killybegs, Sligo Harbour, Teelin Harbour, Kinsale, Galway Harbour, Tralee

Bay, Valentia Harbour, and Crookhaven 5/-

On cloth for Captains' use 7/6

ENGLAND and SCOTLAND PILOT. Containing the following Charts,
viz. : — No. I, The River Thames. No. 2, The East Coast of England, from
Orfordness to Flamborough Head. No. 3, The East Coast of England and
Scotland 10/-

I'f

36.

37.

38.

North Sea, Kattegat, and Baltic.

NORTH SEA, on two large sheets, showing the navigation between the coasts
of England and Scotland, and the opposite coasts of France, Holland, Jutland,
and Norway. With plans of harbours. Illustrated with numerous views of the

Lighthouses. Accompanied with a Book of Directions °l~

On cloth for Captains' use '°/"

NORTH SEA. The same chart as the preceding, but with the addition of a
half sheet to show the coast of Norway as far as Drontheim. Illustrated with
numerous views of the coast, and improved by a full desciiption of the Currents,
Tides, &c., and remarks on the passage across the North Sea. Accompanied

with a Book of Directions '°/~

On cloth for Captains' use '3/9

SOUTHERN PART of the NORTH SEA from Dungeness to Flam-
borough Head on the English side ; with the opposite coasts of France, Holland,
and Germany, from Calais to Hamburg. With plans of Bridlington and Dover
bays, the Downs, Dunkerque Roads, Flushing Roads, the entrance to the Hook
of Holland Canal, port Ymuiden, the Texel Channels, Helgoland, and entrance to

• ■ -■ " ■ '"•■■■■ 12-

15/9

217.

39-

40.

the river Elbe.

On' three sheets. Accompanied with a Book of Directions

On cloth for Captains' use •

On cloth and rollers for Counting-house, coloured and

varnished ; size 6 ft. 5 in. by 3 ft. S in 3'/"

ENGLAND to GRONINQEN, being two sheets of Chart No. 38.
With plans of Bridlington and Dover bays, the Downs, Flushing Roads, port

Ymuiden, and entrance to the Hook of Holland Canal °l-

FLEMISH BANKS, &c. A large chart, on two sheets, showing the navigation
between the River Thames and the ports on the north coast of France (Calais,
Ostende, Dunkerque, &c.), the River Schelde to Antweqi, Rotterdam, &c. It
comprises the North Sea south of latitude 52° 23' N., and is accompanied with

a Book of Sailing Directions °l~

On cloth for Captains' use 'o/o

NORTH SEA (Rivers Thames and Maas to the Texel). A large chart,
on two sheets, showing the navigation north of the chart of the Flemish Banks,
&c., just described, and comprising all the sea includetl between Orfordness and
Yarmouth Roads and the Texel °l~

•I fM

James Imray and Son's Catalogue,

41.* NORTH SEA (Coast of Holland and Prassia from the Texel to Ham-
burg). A chart, on three large sheetS) showing the entrances to the Rivers Elbe,
Weser, Ems, Jade, and Hever. Compiled from recent surveys. Accompanied

with a Book of Directions 12/-

On cloth for Captains' use lS/9

On cloth and rollers for Counting-house, coloured and
varnished ; size 6 ft. 8 in. by 3 ft. 6 in. 31/6

39, 40, 41 are on the same scale, and show the navigation from the English
They form a complete series of charts of the North Sea southward of Hamburg.

• The charts Nos.
Channel to Hamburg.

42. SKAGERRAK, or SLEEVE, extending from the Naze of Norway to Gothen-
burg. On a large scale. With numerous plans of harbours. Illustrated with

views of Beacons and Heiidlands. On two sheets 8/-

On cloth for Captains' use 10/6

aaS.

ENTRANCE TO THE KATTEGAT. A laige chart on i\ sheets, showing
the navigation between Christiania and Anholt island. With plans of the ap-
proach to Frederikstad, entrance to GuUmar and Aby fiords, entrance to Marstrand
fiord, Gothenborg bay, Kongsbacka fiord, Nidingen island and reefs, &c. With
a Book of Directions. Limits : latitude 56° 41' to 60° 5' N, longitude 9° 23' to

I3''27'E 10/-

On cloth for Captains' use 13/9

aag

THE BELTS AND SOUND. A large chart on two .sheets, showing the
navigation between Anholt island and the ports of Apenrade, Flensburg, Schlesvig,
Eckemforde, Kiel, Neustadt, Elsinore (Helsingor), Copenhagen, Malmo, Trave-
munde, Wismar, Rostock, Stralsund, &c. &c. With plans of harbours. Ac-
companied by a Book of Directions. Limits : latitude 53° 53' to 56° 52' N,

longitude 9° 23' to 13° 27' E. 8/-

On cloth for Captains' use 10/6

These two charts (Nos. 328, 339) are on the .same scale, and are intended to accompany each other.
They show tne navigation between Christiania fiord and the port of Kiel ; consequently, the route through
the Kattegat into the Baltic.

43. KATTEGAT (the navigation between the Skaw and Elsinore). Compiled from

recent Danish surveys. On two large sheets. Illustrated by numerous views of

the coast, and accompanied with a Book of Sailing Directions 8/-

On cloth for Captains' use ... ... ... ... ... 10/6

44. KATTEGAT, SOUND AND BELTS. A large chart on three sheets,

showing the navigation from .Skagen point through the Belts and .Sound into the
Baltic. With plans of the principal harbours. Accompanied by a Book of
Directions. Limits : latitude 53° 53' to 58° 10' N, longitude 9° 23' to 13° 27' E.

12/-
On cloth for Captains' use 15/9

This chart is three sheets of the charts Nos. 328 and 229. It is published in this form as a convenient
accompaniment to the chart of the Skagerr.ik (No. 42'.

45. THE BELTS. A large chart, on two sheets, showing the navigation from the

Kattegat into the Baltic. Tiiis chnvt is on the same .scale as that of the Kattegat
(No. 43), and is intended to accompany that cliart. It is for the use of such Ship-
masters as jirefer the wide and clear navigation through the Great Belt to the
nearer but more confined passage into tlie Baltic tlirough the Sound. Accom-
panied with a Book of Directions 8/-

On cloth for Captains' use 10/6

46. SOUND. On two large sheets. With plans of the Channel of Elsinore, and the

Channel of Copenhagen. Compiled from recent surveys 7/-

On clotii for Captains' use 9/6

47. BALTIC (the Sound to the Gulf of Finland and Gulf of Bothnia). With

plans of harbours. Drawn from the latest surveys made by onler of tlie Govern-
ments of Germany, Swetlen, Denmark, and Russia. On two large sheets. A new
chart. Accompanied with a Book of Directions 8/-

48.+ BALTIC (South Part of), on three large sheets, and with many plans of har-
bours. Shows the navigation from the Sound to Danzig, Pillau, Memel, the south
end of the island of Gottland, &c. Limits ; latitude 53° 45' to 57' 13' N. ; lon-
gitude 12° o' to 21° 55' E. With a Book of Directions 10/-

IMRAY & SON'S CATALOGUE

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Minories, London.

* 3

49.t BALTIC (North Part of), on three large sheets, on the same scale as the pre-
ceding chart, and with many plans of harbours. It shows the navigation from the
south end of Gottland to Riga, the Gulfs of Finland and Bothnia, Stockholm, &c.
Limits : latitude 56° 52' to 60° 5' N., longitude 16" o' to 25° 55' E. ... 10/-

50.+ GULF of BOTHNIA, on 2J large sheets. With plans cf the North Quarken
and the harbours of Gamla Carleby, and Hudiksvall. Compiled from the recent
surveys made by order of the Swedish Government. Accompanied with a Book
of Directions lo/-

51. t GULF of BOTHNIA (South of the North Quarken), A large chart on three
sheets, on the same scale as the preceding charts (North and ^outh Baltic,
Nos. 48 and 49) and intended to accompany them. With plans of harbours, and
accompanied with a Book of Directions 10/-

223.t GULF OF BOTHNIA (North of the North Quarken). This chart shows
the navigation frr-..i Umea to Tomea and Uleaborg, at the head of the gulf, and is
on the saro'- acale as charts No. 48, 49, and 51. On two large sheets. With a

Book of L»irections 8/-

On cloth for Captains' use 10/6

52. t GULF of FINLAND, on three large sheets, showing the whole navigation be-
tween Dager-ort and St. Petersburg. With plans of Kronstat, Port Baltic or
Rager Wik, Revel and Hango Harbours. Illustrated with numerous views of the
coa.st, and accompanied with a Book of Directions 10/-

t These are all new charts, engraved in the best and clearest style. They show the navigation from
the North Sea to the (Julf of Huthnia or Gulf of Finland on the largest scale yet published. Shipmasters
bound to St. Petersburg should provide themselves with Nos. 37, 42, 43, 45, 46, 48, 49 and 52; or, if bound
to the Gulf of Bothnia, Nos. 50 (or 51 and 223' instead of No. 52. Ifrequireil to be moimted on cloth, the
price of each chart will be 39 extra.

•rl

Norway, Lapland, and North Rtissia.

53. NORWAY and LAPLAND, showing the navigation between the North and

White Seas. Witli plans of the vicinity of Hammerfest and Tromsoe, the port
of Drontheim, and the bay of Arkhangel. On two large sheets. Accompanied

with a Book of Directions ... ... ... ... ... 8/-

• On cloth for Captains' use 10/6

54. BRITISH ISLANDS to the GULF of OBI. The same chart as No. 53,

but with two additional sheets to show the navigation eastward of the White Sea.
With a large plan of Petshora Bay. (In preparation.)

55. BRITISH ISLANDS to the WHITE SEA (Chart No, i). On two

large sheets. Limits : latitude 56° o' to 63° 5' N., longitude 9° 40' W. to
9"'4o'E 8/-

56. BRITISH ISLANDS to the WHITE SEA (Chart No. 2). On two

large sheets. Limits : luiitude 62° 10' to GS" o' N., longitude 2" <5' W., to
lyo'E. 8/-

57. BRITISH ISLANDS to the WHITE SEA (Chart No. 3). On two

large sheets. Limits : latitude 67° 10' to 72° o' N., longitude 9° 35' to 28° o' E.

8/-

58. BRITISH ISLANDS to the WHITE SEA (Chart No. 4). On two

large sheets. Limits : latitude 68° o' to 72° 35' N., longitude 25° 35' to 44° o' E.

8/-

59. BRITISH ISLANDS to the WHITE SEA (Chart No. 5), Showing the

WHITE SEA. On two large sheets. With plans of Arkhangel, .So.snovets,
Veshnyak, Nokuev, Sem Islands, lukanskie anil Onega Harbours, the Gulf of
Onega, &c. Illustrated with numerous views of the coast, and imp.'oved by many
explanatory notes. Limits : latitude 63° 46' to 69° o' N., longitude 31° 30' '-^

47° 30' E. Accompanied with a Book of Directions 8/-

On cloth for Captains' use 10/6

yames Imray and Son's Catalogue,

12. BRITISH ISLANDS to the WHITE SEA and PETSHORA BAY
(Chart No. 6). Showing fhe navigation eastward of the White Sea to Petshora

Bay. With a large plan of the Bay. On two large sheets 8/-

On cloth for Captains' use ... io/6

Shipmasters going to Arkhaneel should take charts Nos. 53, 55, 56, 57,58,59, as th ose publications
exhibit the whole voyage to the White Sea. With the exception of No. 53 (a genen 1 chart for the
whole navigation) the charts are .ill on the samo scale and each contains many plans of liarbours. The
series is accompanied with a small Index chart (for which no charge is made), and it is requested that
purchasers ask for it, if it be not supplied.

Sea west and north of the British Islands^
including Iceland.

33. SEA NORTH-WEST of the BRITISH ISLANDS, with plans of

the Caledonian Canal and Rockall Bank. This chart is specially adapted to tlie
use of Shipmasters frequenting Rockall Bank and the Fa;roe Islands in pursuit
of the Fishery, as it shows Rockall Bank on a large scale. On two large sheets.
Limits : latitude 53° 50' to 63° 35' N., longitude 0° 30' to 15° 40" W. ... 8/-

On cloth for Captains' liLe ... ... ., ... ... 10/6

34. WEST COAST of the BRITISH ISLANDS. The same chart as No. 33

(Sea north-west of the Britisli Islands), but with an additional sheet. This chart
shows the whole of the Irish Channel, the coast round Ireland, the Bristol
Channel, and the English Channel west of the Isle of Wight ; it also exhibits the
navigation west of the British Islands between the English Channel and the Fjeroe
Ishinds. Limits : latitude 48° 2d to 63° 35' N., longitude 0° 30' to

iS°4o'W. On three sheets lo/-

On cloth for Captains' use 13/9

35. FiEROE ISLANDS to the BAY of BISCAY. On fou- large sheets. 12/-

On cloth for Captains' use 17/-

251 . NORWAY and LAPLAND to ICELAND. This chart shows the naviga-

tion from the North and V/'hite Seas to Iceland, also from the north part of
Scotland to Iceland. It contains plans of Jan Mayen Island, the Fairoe Islar as,
Thorshaven (Freroc Islands), Ilammcrfcst, Tromsoe, Drontheim and Arkhangel.
On three large sheets 12/-

252. NORTH SEA to ICELAND. A large chart on three sheets, showing the

navij,-ation to Iceland from tlie North .Sea, the wostem co.ast of Norw.iy, and the
northern p;trt of Scotland. Witli ,1 jilan of Bergen and the south channel leading
to it ; also one of Rcikiavik Iniy and harbour. Liiuits : latitude 58" 35' to C;"

10' N,, longitude 12° o' E, to 25" 40' W la/-

On cloth for Captains' use 15/9

253. BRITISH ISLANDS to ICELAND.

On cloth for Captains' use

Two sheets of chart No. 252

8/-
10/6

254. ICELAND. A large chart on two .sheets. This publication also shows all that
is I nown of the interior of llie island ; con.seeiuently it is as useful to the traveller

.IS the y.iclitsman 8/-

On cloth for Captains' use 10/6

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INDEX TOTHI CHARTS

of the

ATLANTIC

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Minories, London.

Atlantic Ocean,

263.

ATLANTIC. A chart showing the navigation from Europe and North America
to Cape Horn and the Cape of Good Mope. On two large sheets ,,, 8/-

This Chart may also be had in two parts, as follows : No. 264, 265.

NORTH ATLANTIC (Europe and North Americn to the Equator).

On one large sheet 4/-

265. SOUTH ATLANTIC {the Equator to Cape Horn and the Cape of
Good Hope). On one large sheet 4/-

latitude Jl" N.

264.

60.

ATLANTIC (Northern Part). On three large sheets. Limits
to6i°N., longitude 5° E. to 83° 20' \V. A very useful chart for the North
American trade, as it shows the northern part of the Atlantic on an unusually large
scale. With plans of the coast in the vicinity of Cape Race (Newfoundland),
Sable Island, and St. George's Bank (United States). With a Book of
Directions 12/-

61. NORTH ATLANTIC, from Greenland io the Equator, on a very large scale;

with plans of the harbour of Funchal, liorta and I'im Bays, and Fayal Channel,
and Bermuda Islands. Illustrated with some views. This chart contains much

valuable information on the winds and currents 8/-

On cloth for Captains' use ... 10/6

On cloth and rollers for Counting-house, coloured and

varnished ; size 4 ft. 4 in. by 3 ft. 5 in 2l/-

62. Short Notes on the North Atlantic. A small pamphlet containing Sailing

Directions and remarks on making passages across the North Atlantic, price
1/6, to accompany this chart.

63-

64.

65.

66,

NORTH ATLANTIC (Chart showing the Currents). The fame chart as
No 6l, but with the currents distinctly shown in colour, and with .an additional
sheet of plans, consisting of Track, Magnetic, Tidal and Wind Charts. Accom-
panied by the pamphlet No. 62 " Short Notes on the North Atlantic" ... 12/-
On cloth for Captains' use 15/9

SOUTH ATLANTIC, on two large sheets, from the Equator to 65° south
latitude, on a very large scale ; with plans of the islands of St. Helena, Ascension,
Trinidad, Martin Vas, Fernando Noronha, Roccas Reef, &c. Illustrated with
tome views. Much valuable information on the winds, currents, and temperature

of the water is embodied in this chart ... ... ... 8/-

On cloth for Captains' use TO/6

On cloth and rollers for Counting-house, coloured and

varnished; size 4 ft. 4 in. by 3 ft. 5 in 21/-

Short Notes on the South Atlantic. A small pamphlet containing Sailing
Directions and remarks on making passages across the South Atlantic, price i/-
to accompany this chart.

SOUTH ATLANTIC (Chart showing the Currents). The same chart as
No. 64, but with the currents distinctly shown in colour, and with an additional
sheet of plans, consisting of Track, Magnetic, Ti'lal, and Wind Charts. Ac-
companied by the pamphlet No. 65 " Short Notes on the South Atlantic" 12/-
On cloth for (jiptains' use ... ... ... ... 15/9

NoTR.— This chnrt, with Ihe ch.irt of ihe Nnrtli Atliirtic, No. 63, showii the whole navigiition from
Europe uiid the United Slates to ilic Cape of Good Hi.p<; and Cape Horn, niul will be found very
serviceable, as the directions of all the known cunents .iro delineated.

07,

Scattered Islands in the Atlantic.

AZORES or WESTERN ISLANDS. One .sheet, on a verj' large scale.
With numerous plans of luibours. Drawn piincipally from recent Admiralty

surveys. A beautifully engraved cliart ... ... 4/~

On clotli for Captains' use S/3

I i

68. MADEIRA, PORTO SANTO, and the DE7ERTAS, on one sheet, with

a plan of the harbour of Funchal, and illustrated with some views. Drawn

from recent Admiralty surveys 4/-

On cloth for Captains' use 5/3

69. CANARY ISLANDS. With plans of harbours. Illustrated with some views.

4/-
On cloth for Captains use 5/3

70. CAPE VERDE ISLANDS, on a very large scale. With plans of Porto

Grande, Praya, Mordeira, English Road ; the most important harbours iu the
group. Numerous views of headlands, and remarks upon making the harbours.

Drawn chiefly from Admiralty surveys 4/-

On cloth for Captains' use 5/3

Atlantic Coast of France and Spain;
including Portugal.

73.* BRITISH ISLANDS TO THE COAST OF AFRICA, showing the

navigation from Liverpool and Ireland to Mogador. With plaiis of all the

principal harbours. On four large sheets. With a Book of Sailing Directions 12/-

On cloth for Captains' use ... ... ... ... ... 1 7/-

74.* FRANCE, SPAIN, and PORTUGAL (the West Coasts of), extending
from the entrance of the Irish Channel to Gibraltar. With plans of all the
principal harbours. Accompanied with a Book of Directions ... ... 10/-

On cloth for Captains' use 13/9

On cloth and rollers for Counting-house, coloured and

varnished ; size 6 ft. 5 in. by 3 ft. 5 in. ... ... 31/6

* Either of these charts with No. 33, will .show the ii.-ivigatioii from the Faroe Islands to the
Mediterranean.

7S.t BRITISH ISLANDS to the MEDITERRANEAN, CANARIES,
MADEIRAS, and AZORES. On two very large sheets, and with plans
of harlKJurs. Limits : latitude 26° N. to latitude 56° N. ; longitude 0° 40' W.

to 31° so- W 8/-

On cloth for Captains' use 10/6

f This is a very useful chart, specially intended for the fruit trade and shipmasters bound to the Azores
or Mediterranean.

76.$ BAY of BISCAY. Drawn from recent surveys made by order of the
French Government. With plans of the principal harbours. On two large

sheets. Accompanied with a Book of Directions 8/--

On cloth for Captains' use 10/6

268. WEST COAST OF FRANCE (Brest to Bordeaux). A large Chart on

three sheets, with plans of (^uibcron bay, the mouth of the Gironde, and the
port of Sables d'Olonne. Compiled from recent French surveys. With a Book
of Directions 12/-

269. WEST COASr OF FRANCE (Approaches to Brest). A large sheet

showing Ouessant island and channel, the Chaussee dc Sein, Douarnenez bay,
and Brest roadstead. With plr-.is on a very large .scale of the Chenal du Four,
tljc Goulet de Brest, and Brest harbour and its dock accommodation. Compiled

from recent French surveys 5/-

77.t COAST of SPAIN and PORTUGAL (Cape Ortega! to the Strait of
Gibraltar). With plans on a large scale of the harbours of Cadiz and Setuval,
the rivers Guadalquiver, Odiel, Tinto, Tagus and Douro, Burling islands, nnd the
bays of Arosa, Pontevedra, Vigo, Corrubion and Muros. Drawn from .Spanish
atid Portuguese surveys. On three large sheets. Accomimnied with a Book of

Sailing Directions 12/--

On cloth for Captains' use .. 15/9

t Charts N08. 76 and 77 show the navigation from tho English Channel to the Mediterranean. 'I'liey arc
on thir same scalt;, and follow the one from the other.

78. COAST of PORTUGAL and SPAIN, from C.ipe San Vicente to
Gibraltar. On a viiy large scale. With plans of Ihe j)riiicipal harbours ; Cadiz,
the Rivers Odiel, (juadaUjuivcr, &c. This chait is from recent surveys, unci

published specially for the trade to Pomeron and LuviUe 5/-

On cloth for Captains' use ... 6/3

, with
Drawn

4/-

5/3

views.

4/-

5/3

Porto

ill the

hours.

4/-

S/3

I i

Minories, London.

Mediterranean.

,■ 6
•2

79-

■ .0

5 n

80.

81.

MEDITERRANEAN. On four large sheets, and containing about thirty plans
of harbours, &c., among which are the following: — Malaga, Alicante, Harcelona,
Villefranche, Strait of Gibraltar, Cartagena, Genoa, Ilyeres Road, Leghorn,
Toulon, Cagliari, Algiers, Strait of Bonifacio, Gulf of Naples, Palermo, Strait
of Messina, Valetta, Smyrna, River Danube, Alexandria. Cephalonia, Trieste,
Patras, &c. Illustrated with numerous views of the coast, and descriptive notes.
Drawn from recent surveys made by order of the British, French, Austrian, and
Russian Governments. A beautifully engravetl and elegant chart ... 12/-

On cloth for Captains' use 1 7/-

On cloth and rollers for Counting-house, coloured and

varnished ; size 8 ft. 4 in. by 3 ft. 4 in. ... ... 42/-

This chart may also be had in two Parts, as follows : —

(Part I.) — Gibraltar to the Adriatic, on two large sheets. This chart shows the
navigation between the coast of Spain and the ports in the Adriatic, and contains
many plans of harbours ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 7/-

On cloth for Captains' use 9/6

(Part II.) — Italy to Alexandria, on two sheets. This chart comprises the navi-
gation between the Adriatic, Black Sea, and the Levant, and contains nunicrous

plans of harbours 7/-

On cloth for Captains' use 9/6

82.* MEDITERRANEAN (Western Portion of), on three large sheets, show-
ing the navigation between Gibraltar and Malta on the most extensive scale yet
published. With numerous plans of harbours. Accompanial with a Book of

Directions. (A new chart.) 12/-

On cloth for Captains' use 15/9

83.'* MEDITERRANEAN (Eastern Portion of), on four large sheets, showing
the navigation between Sicily and Malta and the coast of Egypt and Syria, on
a very large scale. With numerous plans of harbours. Accompanied with a

Book of Directions. (A new chart.) 12/-

On cloth for Captains' use 19/-

• These two charts (Nos. 83 and 83) show the wh;)le navi(jation from Gibr.ilt.ir to Alexandria and the
coast of Syria, on a very large scilc. The chart No. 83 being very large, may bt had in two parts, as in
Nos. 84 and 85. ^

84. MEDITERRANEAN (Middle Portion of), on two large sheets, showing

the navigation between Sicily and Maita and the Grecian .\rchipclago. Ac-
companied with a Book of Directions 8/-

85. MEDITERRANEAN (Levant Portion). On two large sheets, showing

the navigation between the Grecian Archipelago and the coast of Egypt and
Syria. With plans of tiie most important harbours. Compiled from recent
surveys. Accompanied with a Book of Directions... ... ... ... 8/-

330. GULF OF LYONS. A chart on two large sheets, showing the South Co.ast of
France and the navigation thence to the Strait of Bonifacio. With plans of the
harbours of Marseille, Cctte, Ciotal, Bandol, .St. N.azaire b.ay, Nice, N'illa Franca,
S.ivona, V.ido, Portofino, Livorno (Leghorn), Toulon, and Ilyeres bay. Limits:
latitudes 40° 25' and 45° o' N., longtitudes, 2° 50' and 10" 50' E. W'l a Book of
Directions ... 8/-

260. SOUTH COAST OF FRANCE, and WEST COAST OF ITALY,
as far south as Naples. The same chart as No, 130, and consequently con-
taining all the plans o( harbours in that chart, but with an additional sheet to show
the n.avigation from Marseille, through Bonifacio strait, to Naples. The extra plans
are Bonifacio strait, Genoa, I'iombino channel, .Spezia gulf, Nap'

Vecchia, Procida and Ischia channels. Limits
longitudes z" 50' and 14" 50' E. Willi a Book of Directions

pies, Gacta, Civita
o' N,

10/.-

latitudes 40 15' and 45

•pi

1 ■ I

If I i

'-: I

( nil

H:l

M ^'1

87.

88.

8g.

90.

91.

227.

92.

93.

94.

95-
96.

97-

98.

99.

James Imray and Son's Catalogue,

86. ADRIATIC, on two large sheets, with numerous plans of harbours and views of

the coast. Accompanied with a Book of Sailing Directions 8/-

On cloth for Captains' use 10/6

GRECIAN ARCHIPELAGO. On two large sheets. With plans of Cervi,
Skiatho, and Doro channels, the harbours of Syra, Kalamitza, and Sigri ; Salamis
and Saloniki bays, the gulf of Smyrna and Khios strait, &c. Drawn chiefly
from recent British surveys. Accompanied with a Book of Sailing Directions

10/-

GIBRALTAR STRAIT. A sheet showing the Strait on a very large scale

2/-
COAST of SPAIN (Gibraltar to Cape San Antonio), with plans of Carta-
gena, Malaga, Torre Vieja, Alicante, Almazarron, Almeria, Porman, Aguilhas,
Portus, Carbonera, Mount Cope, Grosa island, Benidorme, Herradura bay, Ceuta

bay, Alboran island, &c S/-

On cloth for Cr.ptains' use 6/3

COAST of SPAIN (Cape San Antonio to Cape San Sebastian, includ-
ing the Baleares Islands), with plans of Barcelona, port Mahon, Valencia,
Mattaro, Palma, Tarragona, Alfaques, Salou, Denia, Iviza, Cabrera, Palamos,
Fangal, Soller, cape Cullera, Columbretes islands, and the channel between Iviza

and Formentera 5/-

On cloth for Captains' use 6/3

ALEXANDRIA (the port of Alexandria and coast in its Vicinity). A
chart showing the coast of Egypt in the vicinity of Alexandria, on a large scale,
with plans of Alexandria harbour and New Port. Published specially for the

trade to Alexandria 5/-

On cloth for Captains' use 6/3

COAST OF EGYPT and APPROACHES TO PORT SAID. A

large chart on two sheets showing the Delta of the Nile, and the coast of Egypt
eastward from Alexandria to port Said. Also, the Suez Canal, and the port of

Suez 8/-

On cloth for Captains' use 10/6

SUEZ CANAL and PORT SAID. A large chart on one sheet. With a
Book of Directions 3/6

SUEZ CANAL and GULF OF SUEZ. A ch.art showing the navigation
between port Said and the Upper or Northern (the most dangerous part) portion
of the Red Sea. If this chart be taken in connexion with charts Nos. 204,
205, see page 23, the navigation from the Mediterranean to the Indian Ocean \n\\

be shown on a large scale. With a Book of Directions 7/-

On cloth for Captains' use 9/6

DARDANELLES, on one sheet. With plans of the Tenedos channel. Narrows

of the Dardanelles and I.amsaki bay 5/-

On cloth for Captains' use 6/3

SEA of MARMORA, on one sheet. With numerous plans of harbours 5/-

On cloth for Captains' use ... ... ... ... ... 6/3

BOSPHORUS. On a very large scale. With a plan of the Golden Horn and

Oumour bay 5/-

On cloth for Captains' use 6/3

RIVER DANUBE (Sulina Harbour to Galatz). On a very large scale.

With a plan of Sulina harbour 5/-

On cloth for Captains' use 6/3

BLACK SEA and SEA of AZOF, on three sheets. With plans of the Bos-
phonis and strait of Kcrtch, Sulina harbour, Kustenjch, Odessa, Balaklava,
Burghaz, Varna, Soujak, Rizeh, Batoum, Trebizond, St. Douka, Ghelenjik,
Gherz.eh, Ounieh, Anapa, Samsoun, Kaffa, Amastra, and Sinoub. Accom-
panied with a Book of Directions. A beautifully engraved and elegant chart,

1*1-

SEA OF AZOF. On two sheets. With pl.in of Kcrtch Strait ... 8/-

On cloth for Captains' use 10/6

Shipmasters Iioiiiid to the Ulack Sea or Sea of Azof should provide ihcmsclvcs with charts Nos.
83 83, 87, 94, 95, 96, 97, 98, 99, as they show the navigation on a very large scale.

Minorics, London.

Newfoundland, Labrador , Gulf and River

St. Lawrence,

100. NEWFOUNDLAND. On two large sheets. Drawn from recent Tinglish and
French surveys. Accompanied with a Book of Directions 10/-

2i8.«BANKS of NEWFOUNDLAND. This chart shows the whole of the Hanks

from the Flemish Cap to the entrance of the Gulf of St. Lawrence. With plans of

the principal harbours. On three large sheets. With a Book of Directions 1 2/-

On cloth for Captains use ... ... ... ... ... 15/9

• Sec also Nos. 107, 108, 207, which are on the same scale, one chart following the other.

loi. SOUTH COAST of NEWFOUNDLAND. On three large sheets. Com-
piled principally from recent surveys. This chart contains many plans of harbours,
and snows the Banks in an accurate manner, on a very large scale, and will be
found extremely useful to shipmasters engaged in the Quebec and Montreal trade.

With a Book of Directions 12/-

On cloth for Captains' use 15/9

102. COAST of LABRADOR (Strait of Belle Isle to Port Manvers). On
two large sheets. With plans of all the principal harbours. Limits : latitude

Si'Sc/ to 57° 50' N., longitude 54° to 62° 30' W 8/-

On cloth for Captains' use 10/6

Charts Nos. 100 and 102 are on the same scale, and are intended to accompany each other.

STRAIT of BELLE ISLE to CAPE COD (Gulf and River St. Lawr-
rence, Newfoundland, &c.). On three large sheets. This chart shows the
Coast of North America between Belle isle and cape Cod, and includes, therefore,
the island of Newfoundland, the gulf and river St. Lawrence, and coast of Nova
Scotia. In it are plans of Halifax, Conception bay, strait of Belle isle, St. Pierre,
Harbour Grace, cape Race, cape Ray, &c. &c. Accompanied with a Book of

Directions 12/-

On cloth for Captains' use 15/9

On cloth and rollers for Counting-house, coloured and

varnished ; size 6 ft. 5 in. by 3 ft. 5 in. 31/6

BELLE ISLAND TO CAPE COD AND THE BANKS OF NEW-
FOUNDLAND. A large chart on three sheets, especially useful to Fishermen,
as it shows the Flemish Cap, the most eastern known bank. With plans of har-
bours. Accompanied with a Book of Directions 12/-

104. GULF of St. LAWRENCE, on two sheets, on a large scale, with plans of

numerous harbours. Drawn chiefly from the recent surveys of Captain 3Jay-

field, R.N 8/-

On cloth for Captains' use 10/6

105. GULP and RIVER St. LAWRENCE. A large chart on three sheets, show-

ing the navigation from the west coast of Newfoundland to Quebec. With many

plans of harbours, and accompanied with a Book of Directions 12/-

On cloth for Captains' use 15/9

The charts (Nos. 60, loi, and 105) show the navigation between Europe, the south coast of Newfound-
land, and Quebec, on the largest scale yet published. Each clnrt is on three sheets.

103.

2SS-

'if! I

\
■\\\

East Coast of North America.

106. NOVA SCOTIA, NEW BRUNSWICK, and COAST OF THE
UNITED STATES to CAPE COD. A huge chart on three sheets.
With plans of ihe harbours of Halifax, Fourchu, Varnioulli, Annapolis, Salem,
Portland, Portsmouth, St. John, and of luimerous anchoiages ou various parts

of the coast. Illustrated with views of the coast lo/-

Ou cloth for Captains' use 14/3

James Imray and Son's Catalojrue,

256.

107.

108.

BAY OF FUNDY. A large cliart on two 'sheets. With plans of St. John
harbour, river Petitcoudiac, Grand Passage, Petit Passage, DigbyGut, Flag Cove
South-west Harbour and Somes Sound, Etang and Winter Harbours. Limits •
latitude 43° 10' to 46° 8' N., longitude 63° 15' to 68° 35' W ... 8/-

On cloth for Captains' use 10/6

CAPE CANSO to NEW YORK and DELAWARE BAY. A large chart
on three sheets. With plans of the Coast in the vicinity of New York, Boston
bay, and Portland harbour. Accompanied with a Book of Directions ... 12/-

On cloth for Captains' use ic/g

On cloth and rollers for Counting-house, coloured and

varnished ; size 6 ft. 5 in. by 3 ft. 5 in. 31/6

NEW YORK and DELAWARE BAY to the STRAIT of FLORIDA.
On three large sheets. With plans of the most important harbours. Accom-
panied with a Book of Sailing Directions 12/0

On cloth for Captains' use ... ..." ic/q

On cloth and rollers for Counting-house, coloured aiid

varnished ; size 6 ft. 5 in by 3 ft. 5 in 31/5

NEW YORK TO KEY WEST, HAVANA, MATANZAS, NASSAU,
&c. On four large sheets, being the same chart as No. 108, but with an
additional sheet to show the navigation through Florida strait. With a Book of
Sailing Directions ... j./

On cloth for Captains' use ... ... "... ..'. ." jg/I

NoTF..— The Charts (Nos. ai8, 107, 108, or 207) are on the same scale, and one follows the other.
They show the Navigation across the Banks of Newfoundland to the ports on the eastern coast of the'
United Sutes. Vessels from Europe should be provided with, chart No. 60, in addition to these
publications.

28. COTTON PORTS OF CAROLINA and GEORGIA. On three large
sheets, showing the coast of the United States westward of cape Fear as far as
St. Augustine. Compiled from recent surveys made by the United States Coast

Surveyors. With a Book of Directions jj/q

On cloth for Captains' use i^Vg

Note.— This Chart shows the approaches to the principal Cotton Ports of the United States on a very
large scale. It contains plans of St. Helena sound, Charleston, Bull bay, entrance to Savannah' river
Doboy sound, &c. '

207.

109.

IVes^ Indies, fyc.

BAHAMA ISLANDS and BANKS. On 2\ large sheets. Showing the
strait of Florida and adjacent coasts, with plans, on a large scale, of Key West,
east part of Florida reef, Havana, Matanzas, New Providence, &c. Drawn from

recent surveys. Accompanied with a Book of Directions 10/-

On cloth for Captains' use ... 15/-

WEST INDIES and COAST of COLOMBIA. With plans, on a large
scale, of the principal harbours contained within its limits. Compiled from recent
British, French, American, and Spanish surveys. On four large sheets. Published
in two parts, as follows : —

Strait of Florida and Gulf of Mexico, &c. Showing all the coast and islands

westward of longitude 78° 30' W 8/-

On cloth for Captains' use 10/6

iioa. Strait of Florida to Panama and the Caribbee Islands. Showing all the
coast and islands eastward of longitude 79° 35' W., and including the coast of

Venezuela, &c 8/-

On cloth for Captains' use ... 10/6

GULF of MEXICO, and Islands of Cuba, Haiti, and Jamaica, the
Caribbees, &c. On four large .sheets. Shovk-ing the Windward Passages on a

large scale. Price 14/'-- ; or with a Book of Directions 18/-

On cloth for Captains' use 23/-

GULF of MEXICO, and Islands of Cuba, Haiti, and Jamaica, being
three sheets of Chart No. III. With a Book of Directions 14/-

IIO.

Ill

112

1 islands

8/-

10/6

g all the

coast of

8/-

10/6

the

113. GULF of MEXICO. Chart No. I. (Tampa Bay to New Orleans). On
two large sheets, and containing plans of the harbours of Apalachicola, St.
Andrew, Pensacola, Entrance to Mobile bay, and the Passes of the Mississippi.

8/-

114. GULF of MEXICO. Chart No. II. (New Orleans to Tampico). On
three large sheets, and containing plans of the harbours of Galveston, Atchafalaya
bay, Sabine Pass, Matagorda bay. Entrance to the Rio Grande, and Tampico.

10/-

250. GULF of MEXICO. Chart No. III. (Tampico to Cape Catoche).
With plans of all the harbours contained within its limits — Vera Cruz, Miniatit-
lan, entrance to the Laguna de Terminos, &c. &c. On three large sheets 10/-

115. BAY OF HONDURAS (Cape Catoche to Cape Gracias). On two large
sheets. With plans of the Approach to Belize, Tumefie cays, Chinchorro Bank
anchorages, St. Thomas Bight, Hospital Bight, Port Cortez, Omoa, Coxen Hole
(Roatan), East Harbour (Utilla), and Port Royal (Roatan). With a Book of
Directions 8/-

Thesc four charts, Nos. 113, 114, 250, and 115, are on the same scale, and intended to accompany each
other.

u6. CARIBBEAN SEA. Showing the coast of the main land included
between the Caribbee Islands and Cape Gracias. On three large sheets.
With plans of the harbours of Aspinwall, Barcelona, Cumana, Porto Cabello,
Santa Anna, Sabanillo, La Guayra, Chagres, &c., &c. Drawn from recent British
and Spanish surveys. Accompanied with a Book of Directions... ... 12/-

N.B.— See also charts Nos. 214, 215, 210, each of which is in two large sheets. These three charts
comprise the same limits as this chart.

214.* CARIBBEAN SEA — Western Part (Cape Gracias to the Gulf of
Darien and Fuerte Island). On two large sheets, and containing plans of
all the principal harbours. This chart shows the navigation between Cape
Gracias, Jamaica, &c,, and Panama. Limits : lat. 8° N. to lat. 18° 20' N.,
long. 75° 54' W. to long. 83" 55' W. ... 8/-

215.* NORTH COAST of SOUTH AMERICA (Gulf of Darien to Roques
IslaiVis). On two large sheets, and containing plans of all the principal harbours.
Limits : lat. 8° N. to lat. 15° 46' N., long. 66° 52' W. to long. 77° 20' W. 8/-

CARIBBEE ISLANDS. A large chart in two sheets. Compiled, from
recent surveys, and containing plans of the Dragons' Mouths, Serpent's Mouth,
Port Spain (Trinidad) ; Bridgetown, South Point, Kilridge Point (Barbados) ;
Scarborough (Tobago) ; Basseterre (St. Christopher) ; OrangetoNvn (St. Eustatius) ;
Fort Royal bay (Martinique) ; Falmouth and St. John's (Antigua). Accompanied

with a Book of Directions i°/~

♦ See Note on page 18, below Chart No. 123.

2IO.'

117.

CARIBBEE ISLANDS.

engraved chart

Being one sheet of the Chart No. 1 1 1 . An elegantly

... ^ s/-

1 18. CUBA. On a very large scale, and with plans of all the principal harbours,
from Spanish surveys. On two large sheets

Charts Nos. 109 and 118 are on the same scale.

119. HAITI or SAN DOMINGO. Compiled from recent surveys

Drawn

8/-

s/-

270.

PORTS and HARBOURS in HAITI. Sheet I. Miragoane bay ; Juan
Rabel anchorage ; Samana bay ; Port-au-Prince ; Fond La Grange ; Port Paix ;
Salt River and Chouchou bays; Manzanillo bay ; Acul b.ay ; Petit Goave bay ;
Gonaivesbay; St. Mark bay; Fort Dauphin bay ; St. Nicolas (La Mole) bay ;
Tiburon, Jeremie, and San Lorenzo bays ; Port Plata ; San Dommgo ; Tierra-
Baja roadstead ; Moustique bay ; and Port h, I'Ecu Sr

271. PORTS and HARBOURS in HAITI. Sheet II. Approaches to Cayes ;
anchorage at Cayes ; Cayes a I'eau anchorage ; Cape Haiti harbour ; Monte
Christi ; Ctyemites bay ; Port-au-Prince bay ; Jatpiemel harbour ; Caldera bay ;
Trois Bay ; Dame Maria bay ; and Nayassa isL-ind Sr

•i*

IMAGE FVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

I.I

2.0

1.8

1.25 1 1.4

6" —

►

■(^

Photographic

Sciences
Corporation

23 WIST MAIN STRUT

WIBSTIR.N.Y. 14SS0

(71«) •72-4d03

Q>.

James Imray and Son's Catalogue^

laa PUERTO RICO and VIROIN ISLANDS. On two luge sheets.
With plans of St. Thomas' harbour, Road harbour, Gorda sound, South-east
end of Culebra, Christianstaed, Mona island, Sombrero island, Guanica, Maya-
guez, Ponce, and San Juan harbours. With a Book of Directions ... 8/-

121. OUADBLOUPB. A chart of the island firom French surveys. On a kree
scale. Withplansof all the harbours 6/-

3i6. ST. LUCIA. A chart of the island from French surveys, on a large scale 6/-

319. VIRGIN ISLANDS. On one large sheet From recent surveys. With
a plan of the harbour of St. Thomas 5/-

East Coast of South America,

123* COAST of GUIANA, Ac. (Trinidad to Cape. Cachipour.) Showing the
various harbours and rivers of Demerara, Berbice, Cayenne, &c. Drawn from

recent surveys. On two large sheets 8/-

On cloth for Captains' use 10/6

123* APPROACHES to the RIVERS AMAZONA, PARA, Ac. (Cape
Cachipour to Maranhao). With plans of the River Para and MaranliaO.

Drawn from recent surveys 8/-

On cloth for Captains' use 10/6

* The five charts Nos. 914, aij, aio (see page 17) isa, laj, are on the same «:ale, and show the
navigation along the north coast or Central America and South America from Cape Graciaa and Jamaica,
to Puerto Rico and MaranhaO.

262. COAST OP BRAZIL AND THE ARGENTINE CONFEDERACY.

A large chart on three sheets showing the navigation from the Amozona river to
Monte Video and Buenos Ayres in the Rio de la Plata. With plans of Tutoia
anchorage; MaranhaO ; Ceara; the Rocas reef; shoals off cape St. Roque; the
river Pari ; Pemambuco ; Bahia ; Santos ; Ilheos anchorage ; Cabral and Santa
Cruz bays ; Espirito Santo bay ; coast in the vicinity of cape Frio ; cape Frio
harbour ; Santa Catharina ; banks off cape St. Thome ; Abrolhos reefs ; Rio
Grande do Sul ; Maldonado and Lobos island ; Rio de Janeiro ; Monte Video ;
Paloma harbour and roadstead ; and the anchorages at Castillo and Polonio.

Compiled from recent surveys. With a Book of Directions I3/-

On cloth for Captains' use 15/9

I24.t COAST OF BRAZIL (Maranhao to Cape Frio and Rio Janeiro). On
three large sheets. With plans of the most important harbours on the coast.
Compiled chiefly from recent surveys made by M. Mouchez of the French Navy,
and Don. A Vital de Oliveira of the Brazilian Nav^. Illustrated with many views

of the coast. Accompanied with a Book of Directions 10/-

On cloth for Captains' Use 13/9

On cloth and rollers for Counting-house, coloured and
vam' bed ; size 6 ft. 5 in. by 3n. S in. 31/6

i2S.t COAST of BRAZIL (Cape Frio and Rio Janeiro to the River Plate).
On two large sheets. In this chart are given plans of the most important harbours,
such as Rio Janeiro, Marambaya, Santos, Cananea, Rio Cirande, Monte Video,
cape Sta. Maria, &c., and there are explanatory notes which add considerably
to its value. Compiled chiefly from recent French and British surveys. Accom-
panied with a Book of Directions 8/-

, On cloth for Captains' use I0/6

t llieie two charts (Nor. la^ and laj) comprise the whole of the coaut of Brasit, and are laid down
upon the plain scale, not the dutgonal.

126. RIVER PLATE. A large scale chart,on two sheets, showing the navigation to
Monte Video and Iluenos Ayres. With plans of Monte Video, Buenos Ayrei,
Maldcmado, &c Compiled from recent British, French, Spanish, and American

surveys. With a Book of Directions 7/-

On cloth for Captains' use 9/6

lOi

to.

lb SON'S

NttW

• Aa lUes

ATALOGUE

40 30

I NDCX TJ f Ht CHARTS g* Shedanii T*

SOUTH /miRICA

* Tluifunibtrs nfw te ths CaJtalaau*

1*19
30

Miftories, London.

»9

127. RIVER PLATE and RIVERS PARANA and URUGUAY. The i^me
Chart as No. 126, but with a supplementary sheet showing the course of the
Rivers Parana and Uruguay, from Buenos Ayres to Rosario and Paysandu. With

a Book of Directions lo/o

On cloth for Captains' use 13/9

For the convenience of purchasers the Supplementary Sheet (Rivers Parana
and Uruguay) is also supplied separately, price 4s.

/•:

•0

South and West Coasts of South America,

128. SOUTH AMERICA (COAST of) from Rio de la Plata round Cape
Horn to Valparaiso, on three sheets. With plans, on a large scale, of
Valdivia Bay, Ancud Bay, Stanley Harbour (Falklands), the Strait of Le Maire,
and of Cane Horn, and the islands in its vicinity. Drawn from the surveys of
Captains Fitzroy and King, of the Royal Navy. A beautifully engraved and

accurate chart 12/-

On cloth for Captains' use 15/9

On cloth and rollers for Counting-house, coloured and
varnished ; size 6 ft. 5 in. by 3 ft. 5 in. 31/6

226. STRAIT OP MAGELLAN, and COAST and ISLANDS OF

CAPE HORN. A Chart, on two large sheets, showing the navigation through

Magellan Strait and also round Cape Horn. With plans of Harbours ... ^-

On cloth for Captains' use 10/6

129.* SOUTH AMERICA (Chart No. i). Shmuing the navigation from Rio de la
Plata to Magellan Strait and the Falkland Islands. On three large sheets. With
numerous plans of harbours. Limits : latitudes, 34° S. to 54° S. ; longitudes,

54' 40' W. to 69" 30f W 10/-

On cloth for Captains' use 13/9

130.* SOUTH AMERICA (Chart No. a), ituluding Magellan Strait, the Falkland
Jslantls attd Coast round Cape Horn. On three large sheets. With numerous
plans of harbours. Limits : latitudes, 50° 30' S. to 59° S. ; longitudes, 56° W.

to82"2rfW 10/-

On doth for Captains' use 13/9

131.* SOUTH AMERICA (Chart No. 3), from Magellan Strait to Valparaiso.
On three large sheets. With jilans of the harbours of Valparaiso, Concepclon,
Valdivia, Chaneral, San Carlos, Barbara, Otway, &c. &c. Limits: latitudes,

53* S. to 32* S. ; longitudes, 71' W. to 85"" 50' W 10/-

On cbth for Captains' use 13/9

132.* SOUTH AMERICA (Chart No. 4), from Valparau^ .0 Truxillo. On three
Urge sheets. With plans of the harbours of Callao, Pisco Bay (Chinca Islands),
Hay, Papudo, Horcon, Quintero, Coquimbo, Atico, Huasco, Ylo, Arica, Val-
paraiso, &c. &c. Limits : latitudes, 34* S. to 8' S. ; longitudes, 68° W. to

82°5o'W 10/-

On cloth for Captains' use 13/9

133.* SOUTH AMERICA (Chart No. 5). Showing the navigation betnvcen Truxillo
and Panama, On two sheets. With plans on a large scale of all the principal

harbours »/-

On cloth for Captains' use 10/6

* Theta general Chartii (Noa. 139, 130, 131, 13a, and 133) are all new, and hIiow the navigation Trom the
River Plain miind Cape Horn to Panama, on the largMt scale yut published. 1'hey ar« very clearly
and beautifully engraved, are all on the same scale, and no expense has been spared in their production.

331. St. Helena Point to Sechura Bay, including the River Guayaquil. With
plans of all the harbours contained within its limits. Limits : latitude 2° 10 S.
to5*4rfS 4/-

231. Sechura Bay to Paycasmayo Bay. With plans of Lambayeciue Rc/d, port
Eten, and the islands Lobos de Tierra, Lobos de Afueia. Limits: latitude
5' 20' S. to 7' 4or S 4/-

B 2

James Itnray and Sot/s Catalogue,

333. Paycasmayo Bay to Port Chiin<^iOte. With plans of tlie bays of Paycasmayo,
Malabrigo, Huanchaco, and Santa, the Goanape islands, &c. limits: latitude
7' 2or to 9* 3«y S ■ 4/-

334. Port Chimbote to Callao. With plans of the bays of Chimbote, Samanca,
Ancon, Supe, Casma, Huacho, Culebras, Chancay, and Guarmey. Limits :
latitude 9" irf to 12" 30' S • 4/-

235. Callao to Port San Nicolas. With plans of Callao, Chinca islands, Paraca bay,
port Chilca, the channel within Gallan island, and Independencia bay. Limits :
latitude II' Srf to 15" IT'S 4/-

236. Port San Nicolas to Comejo Point. With plans of ports San Nicolas, San

iuan, Atico, Lomas, Quiica, and the anchorage in front of Quilca. Limits :
ititude is'of to i7*rfS 4/-

237. Comejo Point to Cape lobos. With plans of ports Mollendo, Ilay, Arica,
andYlo. Limits : latitude 16° 40^ to 19° rf S 4/-

238. Cape Lobos to Cape Paquica. With plans of Chipana, Patillos, Mexillon,
and Pisagua bays ; the anchorages of Patwllon de Pica and Iquique, &c. &c.
Limits : tatitude 18" 30f to 22° o' S 4/-

239. Cape Paquica to Port Paposo. With plans of the anchorages of Algodon,
Cobija, Angamos, Gonstitucion, Chimba, Antofagasta, and £1 Cobre. Limits :
latitude 21" 50^ to 25° itf S. 4/-

24a Port Paposo to Herradura Bay. With plans of Carissals, Taltal, Paposa,
Copiapo, Pajonel cove, Herradura, Chafierai, and Tortoralillo bays, Caldero,
Yngl^ Flamenco, and Lavata bays. Limits : latitude 25° S. to 28° 10^ S. 4/-

341. Herradura Bay to River Limari. With plans of Huasco, Coquimbo, and
Herradura bays, Tongoy bay, Chafierai island and bay, Pefia Bknca, Choros and
Apolillado bays. Limits : latitude 28° S. to 31° S. 4/-

242. River Limari to Toro Point. With plans of Valparaiso bay, Lagunilla bay,
port Papudo, Quintero bay, Maytencillo cove, Pichidanque bav, Algarrobo bay,
Ligua roadstead, Concbali bay and neighbouring coast, Chigualoco Imy, port San
Antonio, &c. Limits : latitude 30° $</ S. to 33° 49' S. ... 4/-

243. Toro Point to Coliumo Bay. With plans of Llico and Curanipe roads,
Coliumo bay, Tamana bay, Topocalma roadstead, and entrance to Maule river.
Limits : latitude 33° 43* S. to latitude 36" 35' S ... 4/-

244. Coliumo Bay to River Yenellenchico. With plans of '"oncepcion bay,
Coronel and Lota bays, Santa Maria island, San Vicente bay. Mocha island, port
Yanez, Quidico or Nena port, Queule bay, river Lebu, river Imperial, and nver
Token, &c. LimiU : latitude 36' 25' S. to latitri^p 39* 11' S 4/-

245. River Yenellenchico to Port San Carlos. With plans of Port San Carlos
(Ancud), Valdivia, Queule bay, Tolten river, Lamehuapi cove. Condor cove,
Muicolpue cove, San Pedro bay, P.anu cove, and MiUgro cove. Limits : latitude
39*' o* S. to 41° 52* S 4/-

* These charts (No. 031 to Mo. 345) comprise the coast of South America from the river Guayaquil to
Fort San Carlos. They are all on the same scale (about \\\ inches to a Dsgree of Longitude), and from the
most recent Snelish, Chilian, and French surveys, and each contains plans of the harbours contained within
its limits, and Sailing Directions for making the ports.

West Coast of North America,

134. WEST COAST OF AMERICA.— Panama to San Bias. On three large
sheets. With plans of the harbours of Sihuatanejo, Acapulco, Guatulcu, San Carlos,
Kealejo, Salinas, Culebra, Punta Arenas, Arenitas, San Bias, &c., &c. ; and illus-
trated with some views of the coast. Drawn from the most recent surveys 12/-

On cloth for Captains' use 15/9

135. CALIFORNIA (COAST of).— San Bias to San Francisco Bay, on two
large sheets, with plans of the harbours of Mazatlan, Magdalen Bay, Guaymas,
Monterey, San Francisco, &c. Compiled chiefly from the United States Coast
survey, the surveys executed by the naval officers employed by the U.S. Hydro-
graphic Office, and the surveys made by English and French naval officers lo/-

On cloth for Captains' use ... ..< isf/^

Minories, London,

136. OREGON and VANCOUVER ISLAND (COAST of). On two large

sheets. With many plans of harbours, including St. Juan de Fuca Strait, Port
Victoria, Nootka Sound, Port San Juan, Beecher and Pedder Bays, and Esqui-

mault Harbour 10/-

On cloth for Captains' use 12/6

137. North Pacific Pilot (Part i). A Sailing Directory for the West Coast of

North America, between Panama and Queen Charlotte Islands, including Port
Simpson and Sitka Sound. With numerous plans of harbours. New and en-
laiged Edition (1882). Intended to accompany the Charts Nos. 134, 135, and
130. By James Frederick Imray, F.R.G.S. 12/-

West Coast of Africa,

211. GIBRALTAR STRAIT to MOGADOR, Ac. A large chart on two
sheets, showing the navigation from the south coast of Spain to the ports on the
north-west coast of Africa. With plans of Mogador, El Araish, Dar-el-Beida
(Casa Blanca), Mazaghan, Mehediyah, Rabat, Safi, and Agadir ; also of Cape
Spartel. Limits : latitudes 30° d and 37° 30" N. ; longitudes 5° o" and 11° sd W.

8/-
On cloth for Captains' use 10/6

71. GIBRALTAR to SIERRA LEONE. On three large sheets. With plans
of Mazaghan, Rabat and Sal^, Mogador, Gor^ bay, Cazamance river, the anchorage
at Isle de Los, the anchorage at the river Senegal, entrance to the river Gambia,
Portendik, Agadir or Santa Cruz, Sierra Leone, and the coast of Sierra Leone.
Limits: latitudes6°o'N.and4i°3o'N.,longitudes5''o'W.and26'ofW. 12/-

On cloth for Captains' use iS/9

372 GIBRALTAR STRAIT to RIVER OURO, including Madeira and
Canary Islands. With plans of Mogador, El Araish, Dar-el-Beida (Casa
Blanca), Mazaghan, Mehediyah, Rabat, Safi, Agadir, Ouro river, &c. &c. On
two large sheets. Limits : latitudes aq° N. and 23 N., longitudes 19° jd W. and
5°20'W ... ... ... .„ ... ... 8/-

273 RIVER OURO to SIERRA LEONE, including Cape Verde Islands.
With plans of Portendick, Goree, Sierra Leone, &c. &c. On two large sheets.
Limits : latitudes 24' N. and 6° 20^ N., longitudes 26° 10' W. and 12' W. ... 8/-

7a. SIERRA LEONE to CAPE LOPEZ. On three large sheets. With
plans of cape Palmas ; the couBt in the vicinity of cape Falmas ; Tabou river ;
Nf onrovia bay ; Sierra Leouc and shoals of St. Ann, Cape Three Points ; Axim bay ;
Tacorady bay ; Elmina bay ; Chama bay ; Cape Coast Castle ; Dix cove ; Gallinas ;
Clarence cove ; Junk river ; Sinou bay ; George bay ; Sangwin river ; Cestos bay ;
£dina ; and Grand Bassa. Limits : latitudes 10° o^ N. and 3° 40' S. ; longitudes

IS' of W. and 10° 40* E 12/-

On cloth for Captains' use iS/9

258. CAPE LOPEZ to CAPE FRIO. A large chart on two sheets. With plans
of Anno Bom island, the anchon^e at Anno Bom, the Mouth of the Congo,
Vesuvius shoal. Black point bay, Turtle cove, Mayumba bay, Malemba bay,
Kabenda bay, Loango bay, St. Paul de Loauda harbour, Lobito bay, Equimina
bay, Benguela bay, St. Mary bay, Elephani bay, Little Fish bay, port Alexander,
Mouchcsbay, Great Fish bay, and Quicombo bay. Limits : latitudes 0° 35' S. and
l8'3o'S.; longitudes 3° o'E. and 17' tfE 8/-

359. CAPE FRIO to the CAPE of GOOD HOPE. On two large sheets.
With plans of Walfisch bay, Walfisch bay settlement, Spencer bay, port D'llheo,
Hottentot bay, Angra Peouena, port Nolloth, Hondeklip bay, Koodewall bay,
McDougall harbour, Saldanha and St. Helena bays, Dassen island and coast in
its vicinity, and Table bay. Limits : latitudes 18 ao and 34° 45' S. ; longitudes
6° <y E. and 20° (/ E 8/-

ChorU Nos, 971, 173. 71, aj8, ijo, are on th« aame RCale, one following th* other. These Ave charts
■how the whole of the West Coast of^ Africa from Gibraltar Strait to the Cap* of Oood Hope on a large scale.

Janus Iniray and Sotfs Catalogue,

South and East Coasts of Africa,

147' COAST of CAPE COLONY (Table Bay to Algoa Bay). On two

\axge sheets. With pl'^s of Table bay, Knysna harbour, Mossel bay, the coast
about Danger point and Dyer island, Cape Agulhas, Plettenberg bay, Great Fish
river. False My, and Simons bay. Compiled from recent British surveys.

Ulustreted with ^ne'ATs of the coast 8/-

On cloth for Captains' use lo/6

148. COAST of CAPE COLONY (Table Bay to Port Natal). The same
chan as No. 147, but with an additional sheet, showing the coast from Great Fish
river to Port Natal. It consequently contains all the plans of harbours in that
chart, and in addition there are plans of Bird islands, Algoa bay, port Natal,
Kowie and Buffalo rivers. Accompanied with a Book of Directions ... 10/-

On cloth for Captains' use 13/9

This Chart shows thp coast of the Cape Colony on a large scale.

146. SOUTHERN AFRICA. A chart on three sheets showing the navigation
round the Cape Colony to Delagoa bay and Mozambique channel. With plans of
Table bay, tne Breakwater and Docks at Table bay, Mossel bay, port Natal,
Delagoa bay, port Nolloth, Hondeklip bay, Saldanha and St. Helena bays,
Dassen island, Kow'.e river, Roodewall lay, McDou^all harbour, Simons bay, port
Elizabeth (Algoa bay), the Bird islands (Algoa bay), and the coast between the
Capeof Good Hope and Struys bay. Limits: latitude 24' S. to 40* S., longi-
tude 16° E. to 46' £. With a Book of D^rxitions 10/-

On cloth for Captains' use 13/9

357. MOZAMBIQUE CHANNEL. A large chart on two sheets, showing the
east coast of Africa between Delagoa bay and Zanzibar ; also the whole of Moda*
gascar, and the intermediate islands. With plans on a large scale of Zanzibar
channel, Mozambique harbour, Latham island, and several of the mopt important
anchorages in the Comoro islands. Limits : latitude 27° to 3° 20' S., longitude

32" 30- to SI" 30- E 8/-

On cloth fo> Captains' use 10/6

266. ZANZIBAR TO THE RED SEA. With plans of the most important
harbours on the coast, comprising Duniford, Mombaza, KIsimayu, Brava, Meurka,
Magadoxa, Berbereh, Ras Hafun, Cape Guardafui, south coast of Al)d-aI-Kuri,
and Aden. Limits : lat. 7° of S. to if 30* N. ; long. 38° 30^ to 57° 30" E.— the
chart consequently includes the Seychelle islands 8/-

Charts Nos. 146, 157, 366, are on the si^me scale, and follow each other. Shipmasters bound from the
Cape of Good Hope to Delagoa bay, Mozambique, Zanzibar, or Aden, will find them very useful
piiDtications.

Indian Ocean, &c.

138. INDIAN OCEAN (Cape of Good Hope to Bombay, Madrat, Calcutta,
and St. Oeorge's Sound, Australia). The limits of the chart are latitudes
27" N. and 50° S. j longitudes 15° E. and 124° E. On two large sheets. Com-
piled from recent surveys. Improved by many remarks on the tidal phenomena,
currents, winds, &c 8/-

139 INDIAN OCEAN. On three large sheets. The same chart as No. 138, but
with an additional sheet (No. 144) containing plans of the principal islands, the

Maldivh, Chagos, Seychelle groups, &c lo/-

On cloth for Captains' use 13/9

On cloth and rollers for Counting-house, coloured and
varnished 3'/~

140.

141.

i4«.

«43.

INDIAN and PACIFIC OCEANS. The same chart as No. 138, with the
addition of a sheet, to show the coasts of Australia, New Zealand, China, and the
Philippine^lslands. The limits of the chart are latitudes 27" N. and 50" S. ; longi-

12/-
15/9

31/6

tudes 15" E. and 178' E. With a Book of Directions (No. 145)/

On cloth for Captain's use

On cloth and rollers for Counting-house, coloured and
varnished ; size 6 ft. 5 in. by 3 ft. 5 in.

INDIAN and PACIFIC OCEANS. A chart for the use of shipmasters
hsiad to Australia, who may intend to sail on the arc of the Great Circle. In
this chart the best routes are laid down, and the Great Circle Tracts from the
Cape of Good Hope to Australia are also shown. Limits : latitudes 27° IT. to 62°
S. ; longitudes 15* E. to 178" E. With a Book of Directions (No. 145) 14/-
On cloth for Captains' use 29/-

INDIAN and PACIFIC OCEANS. A chart showing the navigation east-
ward of the '"ape of Good Hope to Australia and China, or between latitudes
27° K. and 50" S. ; longitudes 15° E. and 178° E. With a sheet of plans of the
detached groups of islands so profusely scattered over the Indian Ocean. On four

large shee^ With a Book ot Directions (No. 145) 16/-

On cloth for Captains' use 21/-

ARABIAN SEA. A large chart (on two slieets) of the Indian Ocean com-
prised between the Red Sea, the Gulf of Persia, and the coasts of India nnd
Cevlon. It consequently shows the navigation between Aden, Karachi, Bombay,

Colombo, and Point de Galle 8/-

On cloth for Captains use 10/6

144. ISLANDS, &c., in the INDIAN OCEAN. On one sheet. Being the
additional sheet referred to in No. 139. The plans are Maldivh, Chagos, Sey-
chelles, and Lakdivh groups of islands ; Comoro Islands ; Kerguelen Island ; St.
Paul Island; Cocos Islands; Mah^ in Seychelles; and Christmas Harbour. in
Kerguelen Island. All are on a very large scale 5/~

On cloth for Captains' use 6/3

145, Short Notes on the Winds, Weather, and Currents of the Indian
Ocean, together with general Sailing Directions for and Remarks on making
Passages ; with two charts showing the Currents and Tracks through the Ocean.
A pamphlet intended specially to accompany the chart of the Indian Ocean. By
W. H. Rosser 2/6

267. ISLANDS EASTWARD OF MADAGASCAR I imits: lat. 3° S. to 27°
S. ; long. 46" to 65° E. With plans of Seychelle islands, Farquhar islands,
Tromlin island, Rodriguez, port Victoria (Mahe, Seychelles). Tamatave, Foule
point, Fenoarivo (Madagascar). The chart shows the navigation between the
Seychelle Islands, Mauritius, Reunion, Rodriguez, and the east coast of Mada-
gascar.

Nff/e. — Charts Nos. 146, 257, a66 (page aa in the Catalogue) and Chart 367 form a series of charts for the
naviftation of the western part of the Indian Ocean, from tlie Cape of Good Hope to the Red Sea, and
are all on the same seale. They arc from the most recent surveys. In connection with them, the Indian
Ocean Pilot (see page 33) should be taken.

149. MAURITIUS AND R&UNION. On two large sheets. With plans of port
Louis ; the north-west coast of Mauritius ; the north coast of Mauritius ; St.
Denis ; St. Benoit ; St. Rose ; St. Gilles ; St. Pierre ; and St. Paul— briefly, all
the important anchorages in each island. Compiled from recent British and

French surveys. With a Book of Directions 8/-

On cloth for Captains' use to/6

150.

204.'

GULP of ADEN (Socotra Island to the Red Sea). With a plan
of Aden. Illustrated with views of the land. On a large sheet. Drawn from
recent surveys ih

RED SEA (North Part). A large chart on) two sheets. With plans of the
Strait of Jubal, Tor harbour; Kosair anchorage, Jiddah, the Brothers islets. Sue*
bay, the harbours of Sherm Wej'h, Sherm Yanar, Sherm Joobbah, Yenbo, Shenn
Rabigh, and Sherm Hasseyy 8/-

yanus Imray and Sotfs Catalogue,

ap5.* RED SEA (South Part). A laige chart on two sheets. With phuu of the
harbours of Lith, Jelajil, Kunfidui, Gizaa Loheyyah, Ras el' Askar, Farisan
island, Khor Nohud, Mersa Ar-rakiyah, Kanuuran iMiy, Village bay (Disei bland),
Sawakin, Khor Nowarat, Hodeidah, Jebel Zukur bland, Mokha roadstead,
Perim island and harbour, Hamish blands ana fiab-el-Mandeb Small strait 8/-
On cloth for Captains' use 10/6

* Thew charts are on a very larce scale. Each contains plaiu of all the surveyed lupboun and
anchorages within its limits.

151. GULP OP SUEZ. A chait on a large scale of the upper (the northern and
most dangerous) part of the Red Sea. It accompanies that of the Sues Canal
No. 92, and should be used in conjunction with charts Nos. 227, 92, 204, 20^,
as these charts show the navigation from the Mediterranean to the Gulf of Aden m

a veiy satbfaLtory manner 5/-

Gn cloth for Captains' use 6/?

152. INDIA (West (!oast of), from Cape Combrin to Bombay. On two
large sheets. Witl" plans of Bombay, Tudri river, Vingoria roq^tead and rocks,
Muwan bay, ChauJ Kadu reefs, Sedashigur hay, Chitlac bland, Kiltan island, St.
Mary blands and rocks, Goa and Marmagao rcMidsteads, Raj-puri river, Naiakel
anchorage, Kolachel roadstead, Rajapur bay and Viziadurg harbour, Ratnagir.
bay, Ahpee roadstead, Enciam rocks. Cochin harbour, Calicut roadstead and
Beypore river 8/-

On cloth for Captains' use 10/6

153. INDIA (West Coast of), from Bombay to Karachi. On two large sheets.
With plans of the harbours of Bombay and Karachi, and of the coast in the vicinity
of Karachi ... 8/-

On cloth for Captains' <-se ' 10/6

154. BAY of BENGAL. On two large sheets. With plans of Akyab, Bassein,
Trincomalie, Colombo, Point de Galle, Bassas Reefs, &c. &c. With two small
charts attached to it, showing the currents during the South-west and North-east
monsoons 8/-

On cloth for Captains' use 10/6

155.* BAY of BENGAL. (West part of,— Chart No. i). On two large sheets.
Thb chart shows the coast from Cape Comorin to Cocanado, and includes Ceylon.
With plans of Bassas Reefs, Colombo, Point de Galle, Trincomalie, Madras,
Pondich^ry, Cocanada, Paumben Pass, &c. &c. Limits of chart, latitudes

4° 46' to I7» 30' N.; longitudes 76' 30' to 86' 45' E 8/-

On cloth lor Captains' use 10/6

156.* BAY of BENGAL (North part of,— Chart No. 2). On two laree sheets.
Thb duirt comprises the coast between Pulicat and Bassein River. With plans
of Akyab, Bassein River, Kyou Phiouk, &c. &c. Limits of chart, latitudes

13" irf to 23° N. ; longitudes 82° to 95° E 8/-

On cloth for Captains' use 10/6

157.* BAY of BENGAL (East Coast of,— Chart No. 3). On two large sheets.

This chart includes the coast between Bassein River and Pcnang, the Andamans,

Nicobars, north coast of Sumatra, &c. With plans of the principal harbours.

Limits of chart, latitudes 4° 46' to 1 7* 30' N. ; longitudes 91* to 101° 20^ E. 8/-

On cloth for Captains' use 10/6

* These three charts (Nos. 155, 136, and 157) include the whole of the Bay of Bengal, and are on a
larger scale than any hitherto pubfiuied. They form an mvaluable series of charts for the use of
Traders in the Bay.

158. RICE PORTS of INDIA. A chart, on two large sheets, of the east coast
of the Bay of Bengal, between latitudes 13° and 21° N., longitudes 92* and
98° E. With plans of Akyab, Kyou Phiouk, Bassein River, Rangoon River,
Maulmain, and Kalegouk Island anchorage. A very useful chart for ship-
masters bound to Akyab, Rangoon, or Mauunain, as it exhibit j the navigation on

a larger scale than anv hitherto published 8/-

On cloth for Captains' use 10/6

(All these charts of the Bay of Bengal (Nos. 154 to 158) are new publications. The publishers fee'
confident that better or more useful charts cannot be obtained, as resort has been made to every
available official survey, and no expense has been spared in their production. )

11 >

IMRAY ic. SON'S CATALOCUr

Vfl no

■jr INOCX TO TNE CHARTS

I INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO

AMJMf • 24

i i

Minories, London.

159. BAY OP BENGAL PILOT. A nautical description of the coasts and islands
included within the Bay of Bengal. Intended to accompany the charts of the
Bay. With plans of many of the most important harbours. This work
contains the official instructions for making and entering the various harbours.
By James F. Imray, F.R.G.S 8/

East India Archipelago.

160. EAST INDIA ARCHIPBLAQO, on two sheets. Being a general chart

of all the isknds composing the Archipeh^ of the India and China Seas. A

track chart, and not intendra for navigation purposes; the scale being too limited

for insertion of the Reefs with the necessary accuracy. 8/-

On cloth for Captains' use 10/6

161.* EAST INDIA ARCHIPELAGO (Western Route to China,— Chart
No. I). Lunits, latitudes 2* ^d and 7* \d S., and longitudes 105' 30^ and
iio'sc/E 7/6

l62.« BAST INDIA ARCHIPELAGO (Western Route to China,— Chart
No. 2). Its limits are, latitudes 3° o" S., and 5' 40' N., and longitudes 103°

20*, and 110*20' E 7/6

163.* EAST INDIA ARCHIPELAGO (Western Route to China,— Chart
No. 3). Limits, latitudes 3* N. to 16° 20* N., and longitudes 99° 20' to no" E.

7/6
164.* BAST INDIA ARCHIPELAGO ^Western Route to China,- Chart
Limits, latitudes i" atf to ii" S** N., and longitudes 107° 20* to 120°
7/6

165.

BAST
No. 4).
40' E.

BAST
No. 5).

166.*

INDIA ARCHIPELAGO (Western Route to China,— Chart

Limits, latitudes lu" 50^ and 23° 40* N., and longitudes 104° 45', and

uS'ik/E. 7/6

BAST INDIA ARCHIPELAGO (Western Route to China,— Chart
No. 6). Limits, latitudes 10° 50^ and 23' 40^ N., and longitudes 112" 10*, and
122' 45' E 7/6

* These charts (Nos. 161 to 166) of what is popularly known as the Western Route to China,
exhibit the navigation from Sunda Strait to the Coast of China on a very large scale. E.ich consists
of two sheets ; the set, therefore, comprises twelve sheets. They have been compiled from the most
recent British, FrencH, Dutch, and Spanish surveys. lu several of the charts there are notes descrip-
tive of the currents, v-inds, &c., and remarks upon the courses most advisable to follow at certain
periods of the year. If mounted en cloth for Captains' use, the price of each will be as. 6d. extra.
An Index Chart accompanies the set.

167. STRAITS of MALACCA and SINGAPORE. On two large sheets.
With plans of Singap re Strait, Singapore Harbour, Fenang Island, Strait of
Durian, &c. Drawn from recent British sui'veys 8/-

On cloth for Captains' use 10/6

168. STRAIT of SUNDA and BATAVIA BAY. On li sheets. With
numerous plans of Harbours 7/*-

On cloth for Captains' use ;« 9/6

169. STRAIT A SUNDA. On two sheets. This chart is on the largest scale ^et
published. It contains plans of nearly all the harbours contained within its limits,
and Sailing Directions for the Strait. Compiled from recent surveys ... 8/-

On cloth for Captains' use 10/6

224. BANK A STRAIT. A large chart on two sheets. With plans of Lucipara

channel, Nangka islands and anchorace, and Mintok roadstead .. ... 8/-

On cloth for Captains use 10/6

170. GASPAR STRAIT. On two large sheets. It contains the Bearings of all the
principal outlying reefs from the most conspicuous objects in iheir vicinity, and
Sailing Directions for passing through the various channels 8/-

On cloth for Captains' use ,. 10/6

mvi

23$. KARIMATA STRAIT. A large chart on two sheets. From recent Dutch

surveys 8/-

On cloth for Captains' use lo/6

208.

209.

BAST INDIA ARCHIPELAGO (Western Route to China,— Chart
No. 6) ; with an additional sheet to show the coast of China as far northward as
Amoy. Limits, latitudes 10° 50* and 26*4orN., and longitudes 112" 10' to
I23'>4S'E 10/-

JAVA, LOMBOK, SUMBAYA, and CELEBES. Showing the navigation
between Sunda, Banka, Caspar, and ICarimata Straits, and Makassar at the south-
west end of Celebes. Being the same chart as No. 171, but with an additional
sheet to include Sunda and Banka Straits. On three large sheets ... 12/-

Japan, — Chart No. 3), showing the Arafura Sea, Torres Strait, &c
latitudes 2° 30' and 12° 20' S., and longitudes 133° and 145° 15' £.

171.* EAST INDIA ARCHIPELAQO (Eastern Passages to China and
Japan,— Chart No. i). This chart with No. 161 (the Western Route to China,
Chart No. l) exhibits the navigation of the Indian Archipelago eastward of Sunda
Strait, so far as Makassar Strait. Its limits are latitudes 2* 30^ and 12° 20' S., and
longitudes 110° lo' and 122° 20* E 7/6

172.* EAST INDIA ARCHIPELAQO (Eastern Passages to China and
Japan, — Chart No. 2), showing the Banda Sea and great island of Timor,
Pitts Passive, &c. Limits, latitudes 2° 30* and 12* 20^ S., and longitudes
121* 30' and 133* 40* E 7/6

173.* EAST INDIA ARCHIPELAQO (Eastern Passages to China and

7/6

174.* EAST INDIA ARCHIPELAQO (Eastern Passages to China and
Japan,— Chart No. 4.) This chart shows the sea northward of Chart No. I,
and includes Makassar Strait, Celebes Sea, &c. Limits, latitudes 3° 20' S. and
8* 40^ N., and longitudes 116* ic^ and 125* 50^ £ 7/6

175.* EAST INDIA ARCHIPELAQO (Eastern Passages to China and
Japan, — Chart No. 5), showing the Molucca Islands and south part of the
Philippines. Limit::, latitudes 3° 20^ S. and 8° 40^ N., and longitudes 125* and
i34*4<yE 7/6

176.* BAST INDIA ARCHIPELAQO (Eastern Passages to China and

iapanr-Chart No. 6), showing the greater part of the Philippines, the Sulu Sea,
:c. Limits, latitudes 8° and 17° 4^ N., and longitudes 118* 20* and 130*20'
E 7/6

177.* EAST INDIA ARCHIPELAQO (Eastern Passages to China and
Japan,—Chart No. 7), showing Formosa, the Majico-sima Islands, &c., also
the northern part of the Philippmes. Limits, latitudes 16° 30* and 25* 40^ N.,

PP" . w , .

and longitudes 1 1 8*20' and 130 20^ E 7/6

178.* EAST INDIA ARCHIPELAQO (Eastern Passages to China and
Japan,— Chart No. 8), showing the coast of China from Formosa Island to the
Gulf of Pe-chi-li and the western islands of Japan. Illustrated with numerous
views of the coast. Limits, latitudes 25* and 41* N., longitudes 117° 30^ and
l32'40fE 7/6

179.* EAST INDIA ARCHIPELAQO (Eastern Passa^^s to China and

iapan, — Chart No. g), showing the islands of Japan. With numerous plans of
arbours. Limits, latitudes 32° and 43° 54' N., longitudes 127* and 146* E. 7/6

* Theie chuli of the eaitern portion of the Eut India AmhipcUgo and the Eattern and yellow
Seal, thow the varioun itiands and pauagei on the largest iicale yet published. Each consisU of two
large sheets (double elephant sise), so that the whole series is composed of eighteen sheets. Thejr
have been compiled from the most recent English, Dutch, French, and Spanish surveys, and no
expense has been spared to make them the most complete and accurate charts or these seas in existence.
Smpmaiteri proceeding to Eastern Australia from China and Japan should take, in addition to these
Chans, those of the western Pacific Ocean, Nos. 190, 191, 19a, 193. An Explanatory Index Chart
accompanie* each set of charts.

Minories, London.

Coast of Asiay China and yapan.

i8a NORTH-EAST COAST OF ASIA (a continuation of the Series of

Charts — the Eastern Passages to China). This chart shows the navigation

from the Islands of Japan to the Gulf and River Amur. With plans of harbours.

Limits, latitudes 43" o' to 55* 38' N., longitudes 135' tf to 150° 8' E. ... 8/0

On cloth for Captains' use 10/6

181.* COAST OP CHINA— Part x — from Canton River to Shanghae and

Adjacent Islands — on two large sheets, and with plans of the Approach to the

river Min, Approach to Swatow, Approach to Amoy, the Saddle islands, and

Key-lung harlMur in Formosa. Compiled chiefly from recent British surveys 8/-

On cloth for Captains' use 10/6

182.* COAST OP CHINA— Part a.— from Shanghae to the Gulf of Pe-chi-li.

On two large sheets, and with plans of harbours. Compiled from recent British

surveys 8/-

On cloth for Captains' use lo/-

<^ These two charts are on the same scale.

212. APPROACHES to HONG-KONO and MACAO. A large chart showing
all the islands in the vicinity of the.se ports, and containing plans on an extended
scale of the anchorages at Hong-Kong and Macao. Compiled from recent surveys.

On cloth for Captains' use 6/6

213. CANTON RIVER. A large chart in two sheets, showing the navigation from
Macao and Hong-Kong to Canton. Compiled from recent surveys ... 8/-

On cloth for Captains' use 10/6

183. JAPAN (North part of). On three large .sheets. It comprises the south coast

of Yezo, the strait of Tsugar, the northern half of Nipon, and the opposite coast
of the Korea, with plans of Niegata, Endermo, Hakodadi, Yunghing Bay, and
the Eastern Bosphoru.s — all ituluJtd betxvem the limits of latitudes 364° and 434°

N., and between longitudes 127" and 144° 40' E 10/-

On cloth for Captains' use 13/9

184. JAPAN (South part of). On three large sheets. It comprises the southern

half of Nipon, Sikok, Kiusiu, with the islands and straits to the southward, and
the opposite coast of Korea, and contains plans of Kii Channel, Yedo Gulf,
Nagasaki, Hic^, Simoda, Wadasima, and the bays of Eno, Heda, Arari, and
Tago — all included between the limits ij/" latitudes 294° and 37° N., and between

longitudes 126° and 143" 40^ E 10/-

On cloth for Captains' use ... 13/9

185. Indian Archipelago. A work containing a full account of the Winds,
Weather, and Currents experienced in the Indian Archipelago, together with
general Sailing Directions and Remarks on making passages ; to accompany
charts of the China Sea, Indian Archipelago, and Western Pacific. With
charts to illustrate and explain the subject. By W. H. Rosser S/-

|86.*

187.

Pacific Ocean.

HORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. (The Equator to latitude 69" N., and from
longitude 60° W. to 110° E.) On three large sheets. The plans of islands and

harbours are about forty in number 12/-

On cloth for Captains' use 15/9

On cloth and rollers for Counting-house, coloured and

varnished, size 6 ft. S in. by 3 ft. S in. 3'/6

SOUTH PACIFIC OCEAN. On three large sheets. With about forty

pLins of islands and harbours '2/-

On cloth for Captains' use • 15/9

On cloth and rollers for Counting-house, coloured and

varnished ; size 6 ft. 5 in. by 3 ft. S in 3>/6

* These are new publications, and show the great Pacific Ocean on a large scale.

jumes Imray ond Sotfs Catalogue,

188. Pacific. (Short Notes and Sailing Directions, ftc.) A Pamphlet to
accompany charts of the North and South Pacific. It contains a descnption of
the wmd4 weather, storms, currents, &c, together with General Remarks on
making Passages at all Seasons, and a complete synopsis of the Ocean Routes.
With charts to elucidate the text. By W. H. Rosser 3/6

189. PACIFIC OCEAN (the southern or lower part). A chart for the
navigation between South-eastern Australia and Cape Horn, showing also the
northern limit of icebergs in the Southern Ocean, and specially intended for use as
a track chart. The best routes to Cape Horn are laid down. limits, latitudes
25' S. to 70' S., longitudes 135' E. to 50° W 8/-

On cloth for Captains' use 1 1/9

190.* PACIFIC OCEAN (Western part of,— No. i). Shows the navigation
between Eastern Australia and New Zealand. With plans of Cook Strait, Port
Jackson, Auckland Islands, Port I>ficholson, &c. Limits, latitudes 30* to 53° V/
S., and longitudes 143' E. tc 175" id W.

■|?

191.* PACIFIC OCEAN (Western part of,— No. a). Shows the navigation
northward from Sydney (Eastern Australia) and New Zealand to Torres Strait,
and through the New Hebrides, &c. Limits, latitudes 0° to 38° S., and longi-
tudes 140° to 1 72*40' E 8/-

192.* PACIFIC OCEAN (Western part of,— No. 3). Limits, latitudes 3° S. to
35" 30^ N., and longitudes 150' E. to 177" «/ W. In this chart there are about
fort^ plans of the principal islands and harbours met with in the route from Aus-
tralia to China and Japan 8/-

193.* PACIFIC OCEAN (Western part of,— No. 4). Shows the navigation from
New Guinea to Japan. Limits, latitudes 3' S. to 35° 30^ N., and longitudes
120* to 152" 40^ E 8/-

194.* PACIFIC OCEAN (Western part of,— No. 5). Shows the navigation from
New Zealand to the Fiji and Samoa islands, &c. Limits, latitudes o to 38° S.
and longitudes 172" E. to 155° 30* W 8/-

I9S.» PACIFIC OCEAN (Western part of,— No. 6). Shows Tahiti, the Toua-
motou, Marquesas islands, &c. Limits, latitudes 0° to 38' S., longitudes 157* 30'
to 125° W, 8/-

196.* PACIFIC OCEAN (Western part of,— No. 7). Shows the Hawaii islands,
&c. Limits, latitudes 3' S. to 35° 30' N., longitudes 179' 30^ to 147" W. 8/-

* These charts show the island portion of the Pacific on the largest scale yet published. The series
consists of seven charts, each consistine of two large sheets ; hence it comprises fourteen sheets. The
four charts (Nos. 190, 191, 193, and 193) show the navigation between Eastern Australia, New Zealand,
and Japan. An Index Chart accompanies the set.

197.

198.

Australia and New Zealand.

AUSTRALIA, TASMANIA, NEW ZEALAND, Ac. A general chart
showing the navigation between the various ports of Australia, New Zealand,
New Caledonia, and the approaches to Torres Strait, with plans of Bass Strait
and Port Phillip. On four laige sheets. Illustrated with some views of the

coast 12/-

On cloth for Captains' use 17/-

On cloth and rollers for Counting-house, coloured and
varnished ; size 4 ft. 10 in. by 3 It. 9 in. 31/6

AUSTRALIA (South, Bast, and West Coasts of). On three large sheets.
Witli plans of Ports Phillip, Jackson, Newcastle, and Adelaide, St. George's
Sound, King island, &c. &c. Compiled from recent British surveys ... 12/-

On cloth for Captains' use 15/9

On cloth and rollers for Counting-house, coloured and
varnished ; size 6 ft. 5 in. by 3 ft. 5 in 31/6

»99-

300.

201.

202.

203.

Minories, London.

AUSTRALIA (South-East and Bast Coasts of,— Chart No. i), showing
the navigation between Australia Bight and Cape Northumberland. With plans
of Backstairs Passaee, Ports Adelaide, Lincoln, Victor, Wallaroo, Elliot, Rosetta,
Onkarapinga, and Willinga, Lacipede and Rivoli Bays, Troubridge Shoals, &c.
&c. On two laige sheets. Limits, latitudes 31* zd to 39' S., longitudes 129° to
141" E ^/~

AUSTRALIA (South-East and East Coasts of,— Chart No 2), showing
the navigation between Cape Northumberland and Cape Howe, and including
Tasmania. With plans of the entrance to Ports Phillip, Dalrymple, Western,
Portland, and Fairy, Lady Bay, and the approach to Hobarton. On two large
sheets. Limits, latitudes 37' 20' to 44" 30^ S., longitudes 140° to 152' 8' E. 8/-

AUSTRALIA (South-East and East Coasts of,— Chart No. 3). showing
the navigation between Cape Howe and Tweed River. With p^ns of Ports

Jackson,"Stephens, and Newcastle ; Twofold, Botany, Jervis, and Broken Bays.
" ■ Limits, latitudes 28" to 38' S., longitudes 149" 50' to 159°

... ... ••• •■• ••• 8/—

On two large sheets.
loTE.

AUSTRALIA (South-East and East Coasts of,— Chart No. 4), showing
the navigation between Tweed River and Port Denison, with plans of Moreton
- — • " « . ^ .. -r^ ! - o_- o- Q„ j^Q \zxB& sheets. Limits,

- — , 8/-

Bay, Keppel Bay, Ports Curtis, Denison, &c. &c. O
latitudes 28° 30' to if 24' S., longitudes 148' to 157°

20' E.

The HEAVENS. A chart delineating the stars from the ist to the 4th magni-
tude, inclusive, constructed principally from the Catalogue of the Royal Astro-
nom'f"' Society... ,., S/~

yames Imray and Sotis Catalogue,

NAUTICAL BOOKS.

Sailing Directories,

yxi. ENGLISH CHANNEL PILOT fhe Downs to Sdlly Islands and the
opposite coast of France. With full vlA complete instructions for navigating the
Channel. Compiled from recent British and French surveys. With a small plan
chart of the Channel to elucidate the text. By James F. Imray, F. R. G. S. 3/6

303. ENGLISH and BRISTOL CHANNELS PILOT, ftc, containing Directions
for navmating the English Channel, the South Coast of Ireland, the Coast of
France from Calais to Brest, and the Islands of Jersey, Guernsey, Aldemey, Serk,
and Herm ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 5/~

With an Addenda extending to Liverpool and Dublin 6/-

304. RIVER THAMES ; to which are annexed Tables of the New Rates of Pilotage.

2/-

305. NAVIGATION ROUND IRELAND ; comprising the Irish Channel and
West Coast of Ireland. With a Chart of the Tides 4/-

306. SOUTH, WEST, and NORTH COASTS of IRELAND, from Camsore
Point to Lough Foyle, particularly describing the various Harbours, Anchoring
Places, Rocks, Shoals, &c. Compiled from various surveys made by order of the
Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty 2/6

307. IRISH, or ST. GEORGE'S CHANNEL, and part of the West Coast and
Islands of Scotland. With a Chart of the Tides 3/6

308. BRISTOL CHANNEL, in which are described all the Shoals, Rocks, Buoys,
Lights, &c. Witha Chart 2/6

309. EAST COAST of ENGLAND (from Dungeness to the Tyne) 3/-

310. EAST COAST of ENGLAND (from Orfordness to the River Tyne),

particularly describing all the Harbours, Anchoring Places, &c 2/-

311. EAST COASTS of ENGLAND and SCOTLAND (from Flamborough
Head to the Shetland Islands) 2/6

. ... 1/6

311a. FLAMBOROUGH HEAD to KINNAIRD HEAD
311b. KINNAIRD HEAD to the SHETLANDS

312. FIRTHS of FORTH and TAY, including the Coast from St. Abb's Head
to Buddon-ness, particularly describing the Hanx>urs, Sands, ijhoals. Lighthouses,
Buoys, Beacons, &c i/-

313. WEST COAST of SCOTLAND and the HEBRIDES, North of the
Mull of Cantyre. With many views of Headlands and Lighthouses ... 4/-

314. NORTH SEA (from the Thames to the Schelde)

2/-

316. NORTH SEA PILOT : particularlv describing the Coasts of England and
Scotland, from Orfordness to Cape Wrath, with the Orkney and Shetland Islands,
and the opposite Coasts of France, the Netherlands, &c., from Cape Grisnez to
the Skaw 3/6

317. COASTS of HOLLAND, GERMANY, DENMARK, Ac. (Texel to the
Skaw) 2/-

Minories, London.

318.
3>9-
320.

321-
322.

323-

324-

324a-

325-

326.
327-

328.
329-

330-

331-
332.

333-

334-
335-
336-

337.

WHITE SEA, SPITZBBRGEN, and PETSHORA GULF, with
general directions from England to the North Cape of Norway 2/-

BALTIC PILOT. A series of works illustrating and describing the Hydro-
graphy of the Kattegat and Baltic, as follows : —

(Port I). — The Kattegat. The sea and harbours included between the Skaw
(on the one side) and Gotheborg (on the other), and the Belts and Sound 2/-

(Part II.)— The Belts, Sound, &c. Describes the navigation through these
Channels, and the Baltic westward of Cape Arcona 2/-

(Part III.)— The Baltic. The sea and harbours included between the Sound
and Cape Arcona, and the Gulfs of Bothnia and Finland 2/-

(Part IV.)— The Gulf of Finland,
ort and Hango Head

The sea and harbours eastward of Dager-
2/

(Part V.)— The Gulf of Bothnia (South of the North Quarken). The
sea and harbours northward of Stockholm as far as the North Quarken ... l/6

(Part VI.)— THE GULF of BOTHNIA (North of the North Quarken).

A Sailing Directory for the Gulf as far as the head of navigation I /6

Nos. 324 and 324a, bound together 2/6

BAY of BISCAY (from Ouessant Island to Cape Finisterre). Com-
piled from recent surveys 2/-

SPAIN and PORTUGAL (Cape Ortegal to the Strait of Gibraltar) 2/-

WEST COAST of FRANCE, SPAIN, and PORTUGAL (from Oues-
sant Island to the Strait of Gibraltar) 3/-

MEDITBRRANEAN PILOT. A series of works illustrating and describing

the Hydrography of the Mediterranean. Bound in cloth 12/-

It can also be had as follows : —

(Part I.) — The Mediterranean westward of Cape Spartivento (Italy). It
includes the Coast of Spain, that of France, Italy, &c. ; the North Coast of
Africa westward of Cape Bon, the Islands of Sicily, Baleares, Sardinia, Corsica,
&c 3/-

(Part II.) — The Adriatic, Ionian Islands, Ac. All the Coast and Islands
included between Cape Spartivento (Italy), and Cape Malea (Greece), with
Cerigo and Cerigotto Islands 2/-

(Part III.) — The Grecian Archipelago, — all included between Cape Malea,
the Gulf of Symi and the Dardanelles 2/6

(Part IV.) — The Levant. All the Coast and Islands included between the
Gulf of Symi and Cape Bon (Africa) ; it therefore comprises the South Coast of
Asia Minor, the Coas^ of Syria, the North Coast of Africa eastward of Cape
Bon, the Island of Cyprus, &c 2/-

(Part V.)— The Black Sea, and Seas of Marmora and Azov,— all the

Coast and Islands, &c., eastward of Cape Hellas (Dardanelles) 2/-

SUEZ CANAL, ftc. A nautical description of the Canal
NEWFOUNDLAND and BANKS

i/-
3/6

COAST of NORTH AMERICA (Part i), from the Strait of Belle Isle
to Cape Canso ; including the island of Newfoundland and Banks, and the

Gulf and River St. Lawrence ... ... 4/6

SaiKng Directories for the Gulf and River St. Lawrence may be had separate, price as. 6d.

COAST of NORTH AMERICA (Part a), from Cape Canso to New
York ; being a nautical description of the various bays and harbours contained
within those limits. Compiled, principally, from the surveys made by order of
the British and United States' Governments 3/-

i'i

Iff

James Imray atui Sof^s CataloguCf

338. COAST of NORTH AMERICA (Part 3), from New York to the Strait
of Florida. A work similar to the foregoing (No. 337) 2/-

339. EAST COAST of NORTH AMERICA, comprising the entire navigation
from Newfoundland to the Gulf of Florida. Bound in doth 10/-

34a WEST INDIES DIRECTORY. A series of works illustrating and describ-
ing the Hydrography of the West India Islands, die Gulf of Mexico, &c. Bound
in cloth 12/. It can also be had as follows : —

341. (Part I.)— Cuba, the Bahama Islands, Ac. It includes the Florida Reef, the
Windward Passages, &c 2/6

342. (Part II.)— Haiti or San Domingo, Jamaica, ftc. It also includes the Cays
and Banks in the vicinity of Jamaica 2/-

343. (Part III.)— The Bay of Honduras, — all the coast and islands between Cape
Grados and Cape Catoche 2/-

344. (Part IV.)— The Gulf 01 Mexico,— all the coast between Cape Catoche and
Florida ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 2/6

345. (Part V.)— Puerto Rico, the Virgin Islands, Ac.,— it comprises in addition
all the islands south of the Virgins to the cuasi, collectively known as the
Caribbees ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 2/6

346. (Part VI.)— North Coast of South America, Ac, — all indnded between
Trinidad and the Bay of Honduras 2/-

347. COAST OP BRAZIL (from Maranbao to Cape Frio and Rio Janeiro),
including remarks on the Winds, Currents, Seasons, &c., and instructions for the
Routes from Europe and the United States to the principal Forts ... 2/6

348. COAST of BRAZIL (from Cape Frio and Rio Janeiro to Cape Santa
Maria). Compiled mainly from the surveys made by Baron Roussin, M. Barral,
and M. Mouchez, of the French Navy 1/6

349. RIVER PLATE and RIVERS URUGUAY, PARANA and PARA-
GUAY. A pamphlet containing full instructions for navigating these rivers.
Compiled from recent surveys 2/-

301,

62.

REUNION, MAURITIUS, AND RODRIGUEZ.

for these islands

A Nautical Directory
»/-

NORTH ATLANTIC. Short Notes on the Winds, Weather, and Cur-
rents, together with General Sailing Directions, and remarks on making Passages ;
to accompany a chart of the North Atlantic. By W. H. Rosser ... 1/6

65. SOUTH ATLANTIC. Short Notes on the Winds, Weather, and Cur-
rents, together with General Sailing Directions, and remarks on making Passages ;
to accompany a chart of the South Atlantic. By W. H. Rosser ... i/-

145. INDIAN OCEAN. Short Notes on the Winds. Weather, and Currents,
together with General Sailing Directions, and Remarks on making Passages ; to
accompany a chart of the Indian Ocean. With illustrative charts. By W. H.
Rosser 2/6

188. PACIFIC OCEAN. Short Notes on the Winds, Weather, and Currents,

together with General Sailing Directions, and remarks on making Passages : to
accompany the charts of the Pacific. With illustrative charts. By W. H.
Rosser 3/6

358. COAST OF THE CAPE COLONY. A nautical description of the coas
included between Table Bay and Ddagoa Bay, including the Prince Edward and
Crozet Islands : 3/-

Minoriesy London.

General Directories

FOR THE

Atlantic, Indian, and Pacific Oceans, &c,

3SO. ATLANTIC PILOT. A work on the Physical Geography and Meteor-
ology of the Atlantic, with Sailing Directions for the principal Ports. This book
contains full particulars as to the Wind and Weather, Currents and Tides of all
parts of the Atlantic, togetlier with Remarks on the Variation of the Compass,
Deep Sea Soundings, and all the Rocks and Shoals that have at various times
been reported ; ample Instructinrs respecting making Passages from Port to Port ;
notes on Tropical and extra-Tropital Hurricanes, and on the use of Meteorological
Instruments at Sea ; copious Directions for making and leaving all the principal
Ports aud Harbours, the. character of the various Anchorages, &c., and all other
Information useful for the Navigation of this Ocean. Illus.crated by numerous
woodcuts, and plans of Harbours, &c. [In the Press.

352. SOUTH ATLANTIC PILOT 7/-

353. INDIAN OCEAN PILOT. The Seaman's Guide to the Navigation of
the Indian Ocean, including the principal Ports on the South and East Coasts of
Africa, the Arabian Sea, the Bay of Bengal, the North and West Coasts of Sumatra,
the West Coast of Australia ; together with special Descriptions of and Sailing
Directions for all the Islands, and Notes on making Passages. By James F. Imray,
F.R.G.S. With numerous woodcuts and plans of Harbours and Anchoring
places 25/-

355. ATLANTIC AND INDIAN OCEAN. Handy Notes on the Navigation of
the Atlantic and Indian Oceans, together with the China Sea and Western Pacific ;
including a Summary of '"■• ds. Weather, Currents, &c., remarks on making
Passages, brief Sailing D .>..tions, list of the reported Rocks and Shoals, the
Navigation of the Western Pacific between China and Australia, &c. &c. With
illustrative charts. By W. H. Rosser 8/-

185. EAST INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. Short Notes on the Winds, Weather,
and Currents, together with General Sailing Directions, and remarks on making
Passages ; to a ".company Charts of the China Sea, Indian Archipelago and
Western Pacific. With charts illustrating the subject. By W. H. Rosser 5/-

356. THREE OCEANS. (The Atlantic, Indian, and Pacific ; including the
China Sea.) A General Directory for the navigation of the Three Oceans.
With numerous charts and illustrations. This work gives a concise Epitome of
the Winds, Weather, Storms, Currents, &c., together with General Remarks on
making Passages at all Seasons, and a complete Synopsis of the Ocean Routes.
ByW.H. Rosser ... 10/6

139. BAY OF BENGAL PILOT. A Nautical Directory for the principal Rivers,
Harbours and Anchorages contained within the Bay of Bengal ; also for Ceylon,
Andaman and Nicobar Islands, and the North Coast of Sumatra. To which are
added a description of the Currents prevailing during the South-west and North-
east Monsoons, an Account of the Monsoons, and some remarks on Passages across
the Bay. With numerous plans of Harbours and charts of the Currents. By
James F. Imray, F.R.G.S 8/-

NORTH PACIFIC PILOT. In two volumes, as follows :

137. (Part I.) — The West Coast of North America. A Sailing Directory for the
various Bays, Harbours, Roadsteads, &c., along the Coast from Panama to Queen
Charlotte Islands, including port Simpson and Sitka sound. With many plaits
of Harbours. New and enlarged Edition (1882). By James F. Imray, F.R.G.S.

12/-

357. (Part. II.) — The Islands in the North Pacific. This Work contains a
Description of, and Sailing Directions for, the Islands of the North Pacific, to-
gether with an Appendix on the Winds, Weathers, Currents, &c. &c., of the
North and South Pacific. It is illustrated with numerous woodcuts, charts, and
diagrams. By W. H. Rosser lo/-

yames Imray and Sovis Catalogue,

359. COASTS of BRITISH AMERICA and the UNITED STATES.

Complete Sailing Directions for all the Bays, Harbours, Roadsteads, &c. &c.,
Compiled chiefly from the surveys made by order of the British, French, and
United States Governments lo/-

360. ISLANDS of the WEST INDIES AND COAST of COLOMBIA,

containing particular instructions for frequenting each Harbour, and important
remarks on the Winds, Tides, Currents, &c. 12/-

Sailing Directories.

(NOT OP MESSRS. IMRAY AND SON'S PUBLICATtON.)

360a. ATLANTIC OCEAN (Pilot Charts of the). A series of Charts of W^-
North and South Atlantic, showing the prevailing Winds, Currents, Ice Limit ,
the best Tracks across the Ocean, &c. Published by the Admiralty ... 17/6

361. ENGLISH CHANHEL PILOT. Published by the Admiralty. In two
Volumes la/-

362. ENGLISH CHANNEL PILOT. A Pilot's Handbook. By Com. J. W.
King,R.N 7/-

WEST COAST of ENGLAND. PublUhed by the Admiralty

4/-

WEST COAST of SCOTLAND. Published by the Admiralty. In two
Volumes 8/6

BRISTOL CHANNEL. Published by the Admiralty 3/-

COAST OP IRELAND. Published by the Admiralty. In two Volumes. 6/6

NORTH SEA PILOT. Published by the Admiralty. In four Volumes. 15/-

NORWAY PILOT. Published by the Admiralty. Part I.— The Naze to the
Kattegat, I/- Part II.— Naze to the North cape 8/-

DANISH PILOT. Published by the Admiralty

4/6

BALTIC and BOTHNIA GULP. Published by the Admiralty; with sup-
plements 7/6

WEST COASTS of FRANCE, SPAIN, and PORTUGAL. Published
by the Admiralty 6/-

MEDITERRANEAN PILOT. Published by the Admiralty. In three
Volumes 16/-

GULF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE PILOT. Published by the
Admiralty. In two Volumes 7/-

WEST INDIA PILOT. Published by the Admiralty. In two Volumes.

»5/-
SOUTH AMERICA PILOT. Published by the Admiralty. Maranhao to
Panama. In two Volumes 15/-

COAST OF AFRICA. Published by the Admiralty. In three Vokmes.

'5/6

PERSIAN GULF DIRECTORY. With a Supplement ..
HINDOSTAN COAST. Published by the Admiralty

6/6
6/-

Minories, London.

374- CHINA SEA. CHINA COAST and JAPAN iJiRBCTORY. Published
by the Admiralty. In four Volumes 28/-

375-

376-
377.
378.

379-

AUSTRALIA DIRECTORY.

Volumes

Published by the Admiralty.

In three

20/-

NBW ZEALAND PILOT. Published by the Admiralty 6/-

VANCOUVBR ISLAND PILOT. PublUhed by the Admiralty ... 5/6

TAYLOR'S DIRECTORY. A Directory 'or the Indian Oceans ; containing
fiill instructions for visi.ing the various ports of India. By Commander Alfred
Dundas Taylor, r.R.G.S., late of the Indian Navy 38/-

SOUTH PACIFIC DIRECTORY. A Directory fok the navigation of the
South Pacific Ocean, wiJi description of its coasts, islands, &c. ; its winds, tides,
currents, and oth<n' p'ucnomena. By Alexander G. Findlay, F.R.G.S. ... 24/-

3S0. HORSBURGH'S DIRECTORY for the INDIAN OCEAN (in French).
In three Volumes 50/-

381. INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO (in French). By M. Sallot des Noyers. Con-
tains Instructions for Java and the Islands eastward from it. In five Volumes.

382. CHINA SEA (in French). In six Volumes.

'li

Books on Navigation y Astronomy, &c.

384. ASTRONOMY (Spherical). Comprising the Stereogr-iphic Projection of the
Sphere, on the Planes of the Six Great Circles usually drawn on common Globes,
including the meridian, horizon, equator, ecliptic, and the equinoctial and solstitial
colures ; with Tables of formulae and numerous Problems and Rules for deter-
mining the declinations, right ascensions, latitudes, longitudes, amplitudes,
azimuths, and mutual distances, of the heavenly bodies ; the times of their rising,
setting, and culminating on the meridian, with various other particulars necessary
to be known by those who would become proficient in the theory of Navigation
and Geography. The whole illustrated by appropriate diagrams and practical
examples, for exercising the Student in the application of the various rules which
are given in the course of the work. By W. Tumbull 5/ -

385. With KEY to the Exercises, comprising full Solutions of all the Examples pro-
posed for Exercises under each Problem ; to which are added formulae for com-
puting the parallaxes of the heavenly bodies, in altitude, latitude, and longitude.

7/6

386 AZIMUTH TABLES, for correcting compass courses and bearings ; being
the Sun's true bearings corresponding to the time at place between the parallels of
61" N. and 61° S. It is also applicable to all celestial objects, the declination of
which does not exceed 30°. By 1'". Labrosse, of the French Imperial Navy. (The
explanation of the Tables is in English, French, German, and Spanish) 14/-

387. AZIMUTH TABLES. The Variation and Deviation of the compass rectified
by Azimuth and Altitude Tables, from 0° to latitude 80° ; also by the Azimuth
and Altitude Tables are found the true position of a ship at sea, the error of the
chronometer and the longitude ; likewise, a Treatise on ¥ agnetism, and the
deviations of the compass in iron ships, and the method of observing and correct-
ing them by magnets. By Paul Cameron 7/6

387a. AZIMUTH TABLES. The sun's true bearing or azimuth tables between the
parallels of 30* and 60° Inclusive. By .Staff-Comma. .der J. Burdwood, R.N. 4/6

C 2

3«

yames Imray and Son's Catalogue,

387b. AZIMUTH TABLES. A continuation of the previous tables (Burdwood's)
between 0° and 30°. By Captain T. E. Davis, R.N., and Percy L. H. Davis,
F.R.A.S. The explanation of, and instructions for the use of Uiese tables are
given in English, Danish, Dutch, French, German, Italian, Portuguese, Russian,
and Spanish 10/6

389. DAILY ASSISTANT, and Mariner's General Guide to Navigation and
Nautical Astronomy, for short voyages ; with all the requisite Tables. By W.
H. Rosser 4/-

390. EX-MERIDIAN ALTITUDES. By J. F. Towson, F.R.G.S. ... i/-

391. GREAT CIRCLE SAILING. A Treatise on the theory and practice of
Great Circle Sailing, comprising the several cases which require the application of
.Spherical Trigonometiy ; with practical Rules and Examples ; to which is added an
Abstract of the formulse and rules, with outline charts. By W. TurabuU 2/-

391a. LATITUDE, LONGITUDE, AND AZIMUTH. The shortest method
of finding the Latitude, Longitude, and Azimuth — first by simultaneous altitudes
of two celestial bodies, and secondly by double altittides. By W. H. Rosser. i/-

392. LATITUDE and TIME. A work containing new and concise methods of
finding the Latitude by the Reduction to the Meridian ; the Latitude and Time
by double and equal Altitudes : also the Time when the Sun's lower limb is on
the horizon. By R. C. Forbes 1/6

392a. TABLE FOR THE CORRECTION OF LONGITUDE. A Table for
the Correction of the Longitude where error arises from incorrect Latitude. By
Com. Gilbert T. Key, R.N l/-

393. LATITUDE BY THE ALTITUDES OF TWO STARS, and also their
true bearings or azimuths at that time. By John Burdwood, Staff-Commandev,
R.N i/-

394. LUNAR and TIME TABLES. By David Thomson

10/-

394a. LUNAR TABLES. With various methods (Borda's, Turner's, Lyon's,
Ac. &c.) direct and indirect, of clearing the Lunar Distances, and thence deter-
mining the error of the Chronometer and the Longitude. The shortest and best
methods known. With ail the requisite Tables. Compiled ar.d arranged by
W.H. Rosser 8/-

This it an excellent work on Liinars. The methods of working are so simple that they commend them-
selves to the attention of all who follow the sea as a profession.

395. LUNAR and NAUTICAL TABLES, arranged for the purpose of ascer-
taining the Latitude ; Variation of the Compass, Rating a Chronometer by
Logarithms and Equal Altitudes of the Sun or other Celestial object, with the
Longitude b^ Chronometer and Lunar Observations ; whereby Mr. Lyon's Method
of determining the true distance is rendered the shortest that has been hitherto
proposed, as it consists of addition throughout, without any proviso whatever.
By George Coleman, F.R. A. S 14/-

396. NAUTICAL TABLES (Complete set of), containing all that is requisite,
with the Nautical Almanac, for Keeping a Ship's Reckoning at Sea, and for ascer-
taining the Latitude and Longitude by Celestial Observations ; including an
extensive Table of the Latitudes and Longitudes of the principal I'orts, Harbours,
Capes, &c., in the World; with several other new and improved Tables; to
which is prefixed a copious Explanation of the Tables ; likewise Astronomical
Problems for finding the Latitude by Meridian Altitudes and Double Altitudes of
the Sun, and the Longitude by Chronometers or Lunar Observations ; the Rules
being adapted to the Nautical Almanac. By J. W. Norie 10/6

397. NAVIGATION and NAUTICAL ASTRONOMY. A plain and popular
Treatise. With an Appendix containing the principles of Great Circle Sailing,
and twenty additional methods of finding the latitude and longitude. By James
Griflin, but revised and considerably improved and enlarged by Wm. Tumbull.
With Key to the Exercises, in which every question is worked 12/-

398. NAVIGATION, and Guide to the Marine Board Examination. A
complete Epitome of Navigation, with the requisite Tables. By W. H. Ros.ser
(See also No. 436) 12/6

Minories, London,

399. NAVIGATION (Epitome of). Containing all necessary instructions for
keeping a Ship's Reckoning at Sea ; with the most approved methods of ascertain-
ing the latitude and longitude. ByJ. W. None 16/-

400. NAVIGATION. The Practice of Navigation and Nautical Astronomy. By
Lieut. Raper, R.N i6/_

401. NAVIGATION and NAUTICAL ASTRONOMY (Practice and
Theory of). By William Culley Bergen 16/-

402. NAVIGATION. Containing all the Tables necessary to be used with the
Nautical Almanac in .determining the latitude and longitude, and keeping a
complete reckoning at sea; illustrated by proper rules and examples. By
Nathaniel Bowditcn, LL.D. (An American work.) 21/-

403. NAVIGATION. In the Italian language. Containing all the rules for de-
terminii^ the latitude and longitude at sea, with the Theory and Practice of
Navigation. By Vincenza Gallo, Doctor of Mathematics and Nautical Professor
in the College at Trieste, and Honorary Member of the various Continental
learned Societies. In 2 thick volumes 22/-

405. NAVIGATION and NAUTICAL ASTRONOMY. By the Rev. James
Inman, D.D 21/-

406. NAVIGATION and NAUTICAL ASTRONOMY. By John Riddle.
In 2 volumes n/6

407. NAVIGATION and NAUTICAL ASTRONOMY. The Sailor's Sea
Book ; How to keep the log and work it off, &c. ; law of storms, and explanation
of terms. By J. Greenwood ... ... ... ... ... 2/-

408. NAVIGATION and NAUTICAL ASTRONOMY. By J.

R. Young.
2/6
1/6

Nautical Tables to accompany this work

409. STARS. How to Know them and How to Use them. With copious
Astronomical Definitions, and numerous Problems and Tables. Illustrated with
A\a^n.ms, and four large maps oj the stars. By W. H. Rosser 7/6

At sea the Navigator frequently sees the Stars during the night when the Sun has
been obscured by day ; but very few (comparatively) make a practice of taking stellar
observations, owing to not understanding sidereal time. This work is a complete guide
at once to the knowledge of the stars and constellations, and to finding latitude, time,
and longitude from them.

410. SUMNER and PAGEL (Methods of Finding a Ship's Position at
Sea). Sumner's method is by projection on a chart ; Pagel's is the shortest
method of finding the latitude, longitude, and azimuth— 1st, by simultaneous
altitudes of two celestial bodies ; 2ndly, by double altitudes. Edited by W. H.
Rosser 2/6

411. SUMNER'S Method of Finding a Ship's Position at Sea, by projection on
■^creator's chart. (An American work.) 6/-

530. SUMNER'S METHOD. A set of Tables for facilitating the working of the
jiroblem by which a .ship's position is found at sea. By Sir William Thomson,
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531. Books of Blank Forms to be used with the Tables in reducing observations of
the sun and stars i/-

KxTRACT FKOM Prkkack. — " Sumncr's method, although undoubtedly the clearest and coni-
pletcsl mode of interpreting observations, has never found very general favour with navigators. A few of
the most skilful no doubt use it habitually, and many more use it occasionally in critical times ; but ilii
tediouaness has hitherto kept it from coming into every-day use. ! have prepared the Tables which
follow with a view to remove this drawback to the use of a method which I have long felt convinced should

he the rule and not the exception of practice nt sra."
Uy the aid of ttiesc 'I'ables a ship's place

, . place can be deduce' with the usual degree of accuracy from the

ordinary observations of the sun or Mars, with almost no arithmetical calculation, and without the use of
logarithms.

ill'

yames Imray and Sottas Catalogue,

4«3-

4«4-

415-

TRIGONOMETRICAL SURVEYING ; containing full and detailed solu-
tions of all the most important cases of triangulation that usually occur in survey-
ing a country or a sea coast ; the principles herein discussed being of the utmost
utility in determining the position of remote and prominent objects, whether on
land or at sea. The whole illustrated by numerous diagrams, showing the method
of constructing and calculating the several cases and varieties treated of in the
work, ByW. TumbuU S/-

TRIGONOMETRY (Spherical). Comprising the Stereographic Projection
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all the cases of right ana oblique angled spherical triangles, the calculations being
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whole being illustrated by numerous diagrams, and particularly adapted to the use
of geographers, navigators, and astronomers, ByW, TumbuU. ... 5/-

With Key to the Exercises, comprising Solutions in full of all the examples
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three varieties- of each example, selected in their order, from the tables t^' .en in
the work 7/6

Naval ArchitecttLve, Rigging, Seamanship y

&c.

416.
417,
417a.
418.

419.

420,
421,
423.

423-
424.

425-
426.

MARINE and NAVAL ARCHITECTURE, A Treatise un the theory
and practice of Ship-building, Illustrated with more than 50 engravings. By
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MASTING, MAST-MAKING, and RIGGING of SHIPS. A Treatise
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the full and accurate dimensions for jibs, mainsails, &c, &c. By Robert Kipping,

2/6
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SHIPS and BOATS (Forms of). By W, Bland 1/6

SHIP-BUILDING (Iron), With many Engravings, By J, Grantham £2 2/-

SHIPS (for Ocean and River Service), Showing their Construction, By
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SHIPS' ANCHORS, By G. Cotftell ...
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KEDGE ANCHOR ; or. Young Sailor's Assistant. A work appertaining to
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of war and others ; illustrated with seventy engravings. Also Tables of rigging,
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Minoties, London.

437. KNOTS (THE BOOK OF), showing the maimer of making every Knot,
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428. SEAMANSHIP and NAVIGATION. By Captain R. Maxwell... i/-

429. SEAMANSHIP and RIGGING. By James B. Moffatt, Boatswain in the
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430. SEAMANSHIP and NAVAL DUTIES. By Lieut. A. H. Alston, R.N.
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431. SEAMANSHIP. By Captain Sir George S. Nares, K.C.B., R.N. A new and
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Conttnls .—Names of the principal parts of a ship — Masts, sails, yards, &c. — Bends
and Hitches— Knots and Splices — Fittings of Standing Rigging — Rigging of
Masts, Yards and Bowsprit— Fittings of Tackles— Staying Masts and Setting up
Rigging — Tanks, Ballast and Provisions — Rule of the Road and Vessels' Lights —
Sea Terms — Managing Sails — Boat Sailing — Stowage of Anchors and Cables-
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432. THE ENGINE ROOM (who should be in it, and what they should
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going Engineers. It contains instructions on matters connected with a Depart-
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433. STEAMSHIPS.— Tables for use of Steamship Owners, Builders,
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433a. STEAMSHIPS. A Pocket-book of Useful Tables and Formulae, for
Marine Engineers. By Frank Proctor, Associate of the Institute of Naval
Architects 4/-

433b. APPROXIMATE FREE-BOARD. Tables for ascertaining the safe Load-
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Guide Books for the Marine Board
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434. HANDBOOK to the ORDINARY and EXTRA EXAMINATIONS :

being a Self- Instructor in Navigation and Nautical Astronomy for the Local
Marine Board Examinations, as well as for Sea Use ; containing also an Ap-
pendix, giving an explanation of the use of the International Code of Signals,
the Lights of the Channel, the Rule of the Road, the Stowage of Cargoes, &c.,
and various other subjects of a similar character. By W. H. Rosser, Author of
"Notes on the Physical Geography of the Atlantic," &c 8/6

435. MATHEMATICAL and NAUTICAL TABLES to accompany the Hand-
book to the Ordinary and Extra Examinations. By W. H. Rosser. ... 5,-

436. The two works (Nos. 434 and 435) bound together make a complete Epitome of
Navigation 12,6

437. MARINE ENGINEER. The lirst section of this work consists of those
parts of Arithmetic required in the succeeding Sections. The Second Section
consists of an explanation of s(» much of Algebraic Equations as will eiuble the
Candidates to read and understand the Questions in the form that mp.wy of them
are now given by the Board of Trade Examiners. The Author has given just
sufficient of the principles of Algebra to enable Candidates to read and apply the
formulae with facility. Many of the Questions are given in a Fractional form,
and the author has freely applied the principle of cancelling so much used by

4°

438.

439.

440.

441.

412.

443

444
445

446,

447.
448,

449
450,

yames Itnray and Son's Catalogue,

expert Arithmeticians. In the first few Examination Papers every figure required
is set down ; and afterwards, as the work is in an especial manner adapted to the
wants of Engineers at Sea who are preparing for Examination, the principal steps
in the solution of every Question are set down. This Section also contains an
ample selection of Indicator diagrams, many of them taken by a well qualified
Gentleman, and all fully explained by him. The third Section contains the
Answers to the Elementary and Verbal Questions, written by another able Gentle-
man. And the work concludes with a short explanation of Engineer Drawing,
and Detailed Drawings of Engines with Dimensions. By William CuUey Bergen.

7/-

EXAMINATION GUIDE for the MARINE BOARDS. Containing the
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Certificate of Competency as Second Mate, Only Mate, First Mate, and Ordinary
Master. By James Gordon, A. M. ... 2/6

EXTRA EXAMINER for the NATIONAL MARINE BOARDS.

Containing all that is necessary for an extra Master to pass his Examination
before any of the Marine Boards. Including Articles on Charterparties, Bills of
Lading, Bottomry Bonds, Lloyd's Agents, Protests and Surveys, Deviation of the
Compass, Great Circle Sailing, and Law of Storms. With an Appendix contain-
ing Arithmetical Tables, Elements from the Nautical Almanac for 1851, List of
Lights in the English Channel, Description of the Lights of Steamers, and Rules
for Stowing Cargoes. By James Gordon, A. M. Bound in cloth . . . 6/-

NAUTICAL EXAMINER; or, CATECHISM of NAVIGATION.

Comprising Questions and Answers on subjects necessary to be known by tlie
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CATECHISM of NAVIGATION. Being a .series of comprehensive
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2/-
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A Pamphlet containing the requisite elements from the Nautical Almanac 6d.

EXAMINATION GUIDE (Extra Masters).

EXAMINER IN SEAMANSHIP.

ENGINEER'S MANUAL, for the Marine Board Examination,
with numerous diagrams. By Thomas L. Ainsley

REED'S ENGINEER'S HAND-BOOK
EXAMINATION

By Thomas L. Ain.sley,
10/-

By Thomas L. Ainsley ... 1/6

Illustrated

7/6

to the MARINE BOARD

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ENGINEER'S GUIDE to the Royal and Mercantile Navies. By a

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REBD'S GUIDE-BOOK for the MARINE BOARD EXAMINA-
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KEY to ditto, containing the working of each Question

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Stowage of Cargoes ) Dangers in the English Channel ; Leading Lights in the
English, St. George's and Brisl(^>l Channels, and on the East Coast of England,
and other Information useful to Seomeu 2/-

Minories, London,

451, SEAMANSHIP EXAMINER. Containing the Extra Masters' Examina-
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452. STEAM and the STEAM ENGINE. Captains' and Mates' Examiner in
Steam, as required by the Local Marine Boards, with numerous illustrations. By
S. H. Saxby, R.N 2/-

459. SEAMANSHIP. This work contains everything required by the Examiners,
including a Plan of Ship ; Management of Sailing Ships and Steamers at Sea ;
New Rule of the Road ; Manner of doing Ships' Business ; and Sumner's Method
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454. LAWS of SHIPPING and INSURANCE : wth a copious Appendix,
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456. MERCHANT SHIPPING ACTS of 1854, 1855, 1862, 1867, 1871, 1872
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457. LEES' MANUAL. Consisting of a series of Letters addressed to Master
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438. MERCANTILE MARINE ACT. For improving the condition of Masiters,
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460. THE LAW and PRACTICE of the HIGH COURT of ADMIRALTY
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463. A PRACTICAL LEGAL GUIDE for SAILORS and MERCHANTS
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464. AVERAGE (the Law relating to) ; to which is added a Chapter on Ari)itra-
tion. By Manley Hopkins 18/-

464a. LOWNDES' LAW of GENERAL AVERAGE. English and Foreign.

£^ i/-
464b. LOWNDES' ADMIRALTY LAW of COLLISION at SEA. 7/6

465. AVERAGE. Advice about Average, for the benefit of Masters of Merchant
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466. MARINE INSURANCE. By Manley Hopkins 18/-

466a. SMITH'S MERCANTILE LAW. A Compendium of Mercantile Law.
Revised by George Morley Dowdcswell, of the Inner Temple, Esq., one of Her
Majesty's Counsel •;fl 16/-

James Imray and Sottas Catalogue,

466b. ARNOULD on the LAW of MARINE INSURANCE. Revised by
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466c. CRIMINAL LAW of the NAVY. The Criminal Law of the Navy, com-
prising an Introductory Sketch of the Early State and Discipline of the Navy ;
the Navai Discipline Act of i860, with Notes ; Criminal Offences and their Punish-
ment ; the Constitution and Turisdiction of Courts-Martial, &c. &c. By Theodore
Thring, of the Middle Temple, Esq., Barristcr-at-Law 8/6

466d. INTERNATIONAL COMMERCIAL LAW. Being the I-imci'^les of Mer-
cantile Law of the following and other Countries — viz. : England, Scotland, Ireland,
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France, Germany, Greece, Hans Towns, Italy, Netherlands, Norway, Portugal,
Russia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, United States. By Leone Levi, Esq.

£1 is/-

466e. SELECTION of LEADINO CASES on MERCANTILE and MARI-
TIME LAW. With Notes. By O. D. Tudor, Esq., Barrister-at-Law.. . £1 18/-

466f. MERCANTILE AGENCY.
Russell, Esq., LL.B

A Treatise on Mercantile Agency. By John A.
... ... ... ... ... &•• l4/*~

Miscellaneous Works.

ACCIDENTS (FIRST HELP IN) ; being a Surgical Guide in the absence
of iamiediate Medical Assistance, including Bites, Bleeding, Broken Bones,
Bruises, Bums, Choking, Cold, Dislocations, Drowning, Exhaustion, Hanging,
Poisoning, Scalds, Sprains, Suffocation, and other Accidents where instant aid is
needful. By C. H. Schaible, M.D. With Illustrations 1/6

ASTRONOMY. By the Rev. R. Main 3/6

AUSTRALIA (Emigrants' Guide to.) By James Baird.

BRITISH PORT CHARGES. The Port Charges at nearly 600 Ports,
Sub-Ports, and Creeks of Great Britain and Ireland, and the Islands belonging
thereto 12/6

COLLISION DIAGRAM (Illustrating the Rule of the Road at Sea).
A large sheet showing, in a tabular form, the only positions in which two ships
can approach each other with danger of collision, and the course to be taken by
each under the Board of Trade Rules. With notes upon a few legal decisions
in reference to certain collisions. By W. A. Oliver, Solicitor l/-

COMPASS (ELEMENTARY MAGNETISM), and the local attraction
of Ships' Compasses, adapted for the use of navigators. By George Parson 1/6

COMPASS (PRACTICAL INFORMATION on the DEVIATION of
THE COMPASS). For the use of Masters and Mates of Iron Ships. By John
Thomas To wson, F.R.G.S 4/-

476. COMPASS (ADMIRALTY MANUAL on the DEVIATION of the
- "J- Evans, R.N., F.R.S., and Archibald

4/6

477. COMPASS. Practical Hints on the Management of the Compass in Iron and
Composite Ships. With a new diagram and deviation curve. A treatise which
cxplauis the whole subject in a very simple and aotisfactory manner .. 1/6

477a. COMPASS RECTIFIED. Table of the Sun's True Bearing, from o' to
lat. 72° ; also, Remarks on Magnetism, the Deviation of the Compass in Iron
Ships, and the Method of Determining and Correcting it by Magnets. By Thomas
L. Ainsley 4/6

478. DEVIATION of the COMPASS in IRON SHIPS CONSIDERED
PRACTICALLY. For Sea-use, and for the Local Marine Board Examinations,
with illustrations. By W. H. Rosser 3/-

467.

468.
469.
471.

472.

474-

475-

COMPASS). Bv Captain F.
Smith, M.A., F.R.S

Minories, London,

479. DICTIONARIES in FOREIGN LANOUAQBS. English into Danish,
French, Dutch, Swedish, Italian, Russian, Spanish, &c., and vice versd, from 5/-

to8/-

480. DIALOGUE BOOK. A Commercial and Marine Pocket Dictionary for
Travellers, Merchants, Navigators, and Shipping J^ents, in SIX to EIGHT
LANGUAGES, viz. — English, French, German, Italian, Danish, NorwegiLn,
and Swedish. By Charles Kann, translator and interpreter to His Majesty the
King of Denmark 5/-

481. ELEMENTARY MANUAL of the DEVIATIONS of the COMPASS
in IRON SKIPS. By Captain F.J. Evans, R.N., F.R.S 6/6

482. FOREIGN EXCHANGES. The Shipmaster's Manual for the Exchange of
Monies, by which the relative values of money can be ascertained with the greatest
facility. By W. H. Rosser 5/-

483. FOREIGN PORTS (the Dues and Charges at). A Manual of Reference
for the use of Shipowners, Shipbrokers, and Shipmasters. Compiled by G. D.
Urquhart 25/-

484. HARRISON'S FREIGHTER'S GUIDE, and Com Merchant's Assistant,
with Tables of First and Second-class Goods on a Decimal Scale, of which
Wheat is the Standard, forming a complete Analysis of Grain and other first-class
goods S/-

485. HINTS to YOUNG SHIPMASTERS, in drafting and cutting ships' rigging
and sails, placing and titting masts, &c. &c. ; with a form of shipmasters' books
and accounts, and several useful remarks. By James Grange 2/6

486. LIGHTHOUSES (their construction and illumination). By Alan Steven-
son 3/-

487. HYDROMETER. A Manual containing its history, philosophy, mode of
graduating scale, and application to technical and general purposes ; with rules,
worked examples, and complete tables ; chapters on the effects of surface con-
densers ; the cause of oxydation and depositions in marine boilers, its prevention
and cure ; priming ; management of boilers, and superheaters, &c. By Lionel
Swift, inspector of machinery afloat. Royal Navy 3/6

488. LIGHTS, TIDES, and FOG-SIGNALS of the WORLD. Part L
contains a tabular list, in geographical order, of the Lights and Fog-Signals in
every region of the Globe ; giving their position, character, range, and every
particular important to navigation. — Part II. contains a tabular list, in alpha-
betical order, of the tidal hours at full and change at all places on the Globe
where those hours have been determined. This part is accompanied with a
Chart. — Finally, a general account of the Magnetic Variation, with its annual
change, is appended, as useful where no other source is at hand. Thb part is also
accompanied with a Chart. Introductions explanatory of each part are given. —
There is a brief sketch of lighthouse illumination, and the general methods of
buoyage. The progress of the tide wave as it successively brings high water to all
parts of the Globe is described, followed by some general remarks on the tidal
currents of particular seas — especially those of the English and St. George's
Channels ; tables for and instructions as to the method of finding the time of high
water on any day of the month at any particular time, the establishment of which
is known, are given ; the Mariner s Compass of various natioas ; Measures of
I.ength and Depth in use for sea purposes by the chief maritime nations of
Europe ; and lastly, a table of the different Meridians — primary and secondaiy —
> seful in determining positions. (Fourth Edition.) ByJamesF. Imray, F.R.G.S.

7/-

489. THE BETHEL FLAG. A volume of Sermons to Seamen. By Robert
Philip, D.D 3/-

490. MARITIME NOTES and QUERIES. In five Volumes ..

each 7/6

491. MATHEMATICAL INSTRUMENTS (their construction and use,
ftc.). By J. F. Heather 1/6

492. MATE and HIS DUTIES. Containing remarks on Discipline, causeii of
Mutiny, erroneous treatment of Young Mates, Forecastle Bullies, Duties towards
the Master, Duties of the Watch, &c 2/-

!!f

James Itnray and Soiis Catalogue,

493.
494-

49S-
496.

497-
498.

499.

500.

SOI.

502.

503-

504-
505.
506.

507-
508.

MEDICINES (the Scale of) with which Merchant Vessels are to be
furnished, bv command of the Pnvv Council for Trade. By T. Spencer Wells,
F.R.C.S., formerly Surgeon in the Royal Navy 2/6

MEDICAL GUIDE (The SHIP CAPTAIN'S). CompUed by Mr. H.
Leach, the resident medical officer of the late hospital ship "Dreadnought," and
Inspector of Lunejuice for the port of London. Sanctioned by the Board of
Trade 1/3

MERCANTILE COMMANDER. His Difficulties and Grievances. By
one of the Body i/o

MERCANTILE NAVY LIST, A Catalogue of all British Ships, and their
Owners. Compiled from official and other sources by John J. Mayo, Esq.,
Registrar-General of Shipping and Seamen 12/-

NATAL (Emigrants' Guide to). By R. J. Mann, M.D 2/-

NAVAL ARCHITECTS' and SHIPBUILDERS' POCKET-BOOK,

containing all necessary Formulae, Rules and Tables. It forms a handy book of
reference for Marine Engineers and Surveyors. By Clement Mackrow, Naval
Draughtsman and Associate of the Institution of Naval Architects ... 12/6

OCEAN ROUTES. This Work, which is calculated to be of service to all
those interested in the speed and safety of Vessels, describes in a clear ,and com-
prehensive manner the best routes from Britain to all Foreign Ports of any con-
sequence. With Map. By W. C. Bergen 2/-

PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY of the SEA. A work descriptive of various
natural phenomena, the Winds, Tides, Currents, &c. With illustrative charts
and diagrams. By Lieut. M. F. Maury, LL.D., U.S. Navy. (An English
Edition.) 6/-

REED'S SHIPOWNERS' «nd SHIPMASTERS' HANDY-BOOK-

Containing Goods proportioned in Stowage, Newcastle Coal Measure converted
into Weight, Proportionate Rates of Freight of Coal per Ton and per Keel,
Lloyd's Scale of the Minimum Weights of Anchors, and Sizes and Lengths uf
Chain Cables, Hawsers, &c.. East India Tonnage Schedule, New Yoik Rates
of Freight, Baltic and Archangel Rates of Freight, Baltimore and Bahia Tonnage
Scales, Corn Measures, of die , diiTerent Ports of Europe, Black Sea Rates of
Freight, Proportibhata Freight Taljle for Tallow and Wheat, or Indian Com,
from the Black Sea and thd principal Ports of Europe, &c. &c 2/6

SAILOR'S POCKET-BOOK. A collection of Practical Rules, Notes and
Tables for the use of the Royal Navy, the Mercantile Marine and Yacht squadrons.
By Com. F. G. D. Bedford, R.N 7/6

SAILORS' SEA-BOOK: A Rudimentary Treatise on Navigation.
Part I. — How to keep the Log and work it off. Paet IL — On finding the
Latitude and Longitude. By Tames Greenwood, B. A.,of Jesus College, Cambridge.
To which are added the Deviation and Error of the Compass ; Great Circle
Sailing ; the International (Commercial) Code of Signals ; the Rule of the Road
at Sea j Rocket and Mortar Apparatus for Saving Life ; the Law of Storms ;
and a Brief Dictionary of Sea Terms. With numerous woodcuts and coloured
plates of flags. New, thoroughly revised, and much enlarged edition. By W.
H. Rosser 3/-

SIGNALS (Marryat's Code of). In occasional use in the Merchant Service

12/-

SIGNALS (International Code of). The New Government Code. Prepared
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SOUNDINGS. The Use of the Lead, or How to Correct the Soundings ; with
an explanation of the general set of the Tides in the Irish Sea, the English
Channel, and North Sea ; with directions for making an allowance for them. By
Admiral Beechey, R.N. 2/6

STEAM ENGINE. By Dr. Lardner ,. 1/-

STEAM BOILERS (their Construction and Management). By R.

Armstrong 1/6

Minories, London.

509. STEAM ENGINES (Marine, and for Steam Vessels and the Screw).
By R, Murray. 3/-

510. STORMS (LAW of). A work giving a full exposition of the Theory of the
Law of Storms, with Rules for avoiding Hurricanes, &c. Illustrated with nume-
rous explanatory woodcuts. By W. R. Birt, Esq. $/-

Sioa. STORMS (LAW of). By Henry Piddington.
SAILOR'S HORN BOOK

5»7-

519-

5193.

Popularly known as the
10/6

SI I. STORM-WARNING SIGNALS.— Pocket Companions to the Board of
Trade Storm- Warning Signals, together with Remarks On the use of Instruments
in foretelling Weather yi.

512. STOWAGE. A Treatise on the Stowage of Ships and their Cargoes, in which
full instructions are given for stowing away various kinds of Goods. By Robert
White Stevens. For every port in the world 21/-

513. TASMANIA and NEW ZEALAND (Emigrants' Guide to). By James
Baird, B.A.

514. THERMOMETER. Manual of the Thermometer, with some Remarks upon
its history and use as a meteorological instrument. By J. H. Belville ... i/-

515. TIDES. Tables showing the direction and rate of the Stream throughout the

St. George's or Irish Channel. Adapted to Holden's Tide Tables. By Admiral
Beechey, R.N ' 2/6

516. TIDES and TIDAL CURRENTS. An Essay on the Tides and Tidal
Currents of the Irish Sea and English Channel, being the substance of a Lecture
delivered by the Rev. Samuel Haughton, M.A., Fellow of Trinity College,
Dublin, at the Sailors' Home, Liverpool, on the 13th June, 1857. ... 3/-

TIDE TABLES (DAILY), for 24 British and French Ports, with Constants
for 230 other places of the United Kingdom and Coasts of Europe. By Staff-
Commander J. Burdwood, R.N 1/6

WAGES TABLES.

Wages. By — Wilson

Time and Money Tables for Calculating Seamen's
10/-

WEIGHTS, MEASURES, and MONEYS
W. S. B. Woolhouse

of all NATIONS. By

1/6

520. WINDS and their COURSES. A Practical Exposition of the Laws which
govern the Movements of Hurricanes and Gales, with an examination of the
circular theory of Storms as propounded by Redfield, Sir William Reid, Pidding-
ton, and others. By G. Jinman. Illustrated by Diagrams 3/6

521. SEAMAN'S and MERCHANT'S COMPLETE EXPEDITIOUS
MEASURER. Containing a Set of Tables, which show, at one view, the solid
Contents of all kinds of Packtiges and Casks according to their several Lengths,
Breadths, and Depths, from 6 inches to 4 feet least dimensions ; and 1 1 feet I inch
greatest dimensions ; also Rules for determining the Contents of all sorts of
Casks in Wine and Beer Measure, according to the Imperial Standard. By J. W.
Norie. With a Cut Index, 7/- (the Index backed with Parchment, extra,
I/-).

522. MERCHANT'S and SHIPMASTER'S READY CALCULATOR, and

Complete Assistant for all persons concerned in the Freight of Goods ; compre-
hendmg an accurate Set of Tables from i inch to 4 feet least dimensions ; and
1 1 feet I inch greatest dimensions ; exhibiting at one view the Solid Contents of
all kinds of Packages and Casks. By — Goodfellow. With a Cut Index, 7/6
(the Index backed with Parchment, extra, i/-),

N.B.— This and the preceding Book are very useful to persons who have to measure Stone for Public
Works, as Bridges, Railroads, Tunnels, &c.

523. NAUTICAL ALMANAC. Published by the Admiralty. (Can be had three
years in advance ; thus that for 1885 is now ready) 2/6

524. ALMANAC and TIDE TABLES (McGregor's). ConUining Astronomical
Information and Tables required for the purposes of Navigation, Guide to all
British Lighthouses, Course and Distance Tables, Port Charges and Sailing
Directions, Daily Tide Tables for Twenty British Ports, and a General Tide Table
for the Principal Foreign Ports. With Charts of Liverpool Bay, Falmouth,
Hartlepool, and Firth of Clyde. Published annually 6d.

525. ALMANAC and TIDE TABLES (Reed's). Showing the Times of High
Water and the Depth of Water at the River Bar, and the Sea Outlet of the South
Dock at Sunderland ; Times of High Water, daily, at London Bridge, Hartle-
pool, Tees Bar, Hull, a- <l Yarmouth Roads ; and a General Tide Table for
England, Scotland, Ireland and the Principal Ports in Europe ; Tables of the
Moon's Southing, Sun's Declination, and Equation of Time ; and other Informa-
tion of Interest. Published annually 6d.

526. NAUTICAL ALMANAC (Ainsley's). Nautical Ahnanac and Tide Tables.
It contains all that is necessary to enable the navigator to ascertain his Latitude
and Longitude by solar observation. Lights of Great Britain. Tide Tables for
the Ports. Published annually 6d.

527. NAUTICAL ALMANAC (Pearson's). A similar work, with Tide Tables.
The Astronomical part and Tide Tables under the editorship of Mr. D. F.
McCarthy, late of the Ordnance Office, Southampton. Publishwl annually ftd.

528. NAUTICAL MAGAZINE. Published monthly.

l/-

529. ALMANAC and TIDE TABLES. With a chart of Liverpool Bay.
Jefferson's Manx Almanac. Published at Douglas, Isle of Man l/-

53a "WRINKLES" IN PRACTICAL NAVIGATION. A work treating of
various subjects interesting to Shipmasters in the trying circumstances that occa-
sionally occur to them while following their profession. By Captain S. T. S.
Lecky, Lieul. R.N.R. 15/-

531. THE DANGER ANGLE and OFF-SHORE DISTANCE TABLES.

By Captain S. T. S. Lecky, Lieut. R.N.R 4/6

532. MARINE SURVEYING. By Rev. J. L, Robinson, B.A., Royal Naval
College S/6

533. TELEGRAPHIC CODE FOR SHIPOWNERS. Contains above 10,000
classified phrases (with copious index) relating to arrivals, sailings, employment,
accidents, money transactions, &c. &c., of both steam and sailing ships. By
E.B. Scott IS/-

LOG BOOKS, JOURNALS,

&c. &c.

James Imray and Son's Catalogue,

Log Books, &€.

NoTB. — Each book contains instructions for the use of the Log Book, remarks on Certificates, on
the Deviation of the Compass and various causes of error in the Ship's Course ; directlnns in Cases
of Wreck ; management uf Boats in a broken sea ; directions for restoring persons apparently
drowned ; remarks on Hurricanes and the Law of Storms ; extracts from the Passenger Act ; Scale
of Provisions for British Merchant Ships ; Ru'e of the Road : extracts from the Recent Merchant
Shipping Act ; ruled form for List of Passengers and the Ship's Company.

No.

3-
4-

Plain Paper, superfine Writing quality.

For 3 months, i day's work on a page. — Cloth backs and stiffened

sides 92 pages

„ 6 months, i day's work on a page. —Half-bound bazil backs

and comers 184 pages

„ 9 months, I day's work on a page. — Half-bound bazil backs

and comers 276 pages

,, 12 months, I day's work on a page. — Half-bound bazil backs

and comers 368 pages

Ruled heading and faint lines.

5. For 3 months, 1 day's work on a page. — Cloth backs and stiffened

sides 92 pages

6. „ 6 months, l day's work on a page. — Half-bound bazil backs

and comers 184 pages

7. ,, 9 months, 1 day's work on a page. — Half- bound bazil backs

and comers ... ... ... 276 pages

8. ,, 12 months, l day's work on a page. — Half-bound bazil backs

and comers 368 pages

2/-

3/6

51-
61-

2/6

Ah
5/6
7/6

I »■

R\iled in form. One day's work on a page.

9. For r iionths, 1 day's work on a page. — Cloth backs and stiffened

sides 92 pages 3/6

10. ,, 6 months, i day's work on a page. — Half-lwund bazil backs

and comers ... ... ... ... ... 184 pages 5/"

11. „ 9 months, i day's work on a page. — Half-bound bazil backs

and comers 276 pages 6/6

12. ,, 12 months, l day's work on a page. — Half-bound bazil backs

and comers 368 pages 8/-

Printed in form. One day's work on a page.

13. For 3 months, I day's work on a page. — Cloth backs and stiffened

sides 92 pages 3/6

14. ,, 6 months, I day's work on a page. — Half-bound bazil backs

and comers 184 pages 5/-

15- 1. 9 months, I day's work on a page. — Half-bound bazil backs

and comers 276 pages 6/6

16. ,, 12 months, i day's work on a page. — Half-bound bazil backs

and comers 368 pages 8/-

Printed in form. Two days' work on a page.

17. For 6 months, 2 days' work on a page. — Cloth backs and stiffened

sides 92 pages

18. ,, 12 months, 2 days' work on a page. — Half-bound bazil backs

and comers 184 pages

19. „ 24 months, 2 days' work on a page. — Half-bound bazil backs

and comers 368 pages

3/6

s/-

8/-

Minories, London.

Printed In form for STEAM SHIPS and ENGINEERS.

No. 20. For 3 months, i day's work on a pa^e. — Cloth backs and stiffened

sides 92 pages 4/-

„ 21. ,, 6 months, l day's work on a page. — Half-bound bazil backs

and comers 184 pages 6/-

,, 22. ,, 9 months, i day's work on a page. — Half-bound bazil backs

and comers 276paq;es 8/-

II 23. ,, 12 months, i day's work on a page. — Half-bound bazil be :ks

and comers 368 pair's lo/-

l «•

Printed in form for ENGINEERS.

24. For 3 months, i day's work on a page. — Cloth backs and stiffened

sides 92 pages 4/-

25. ,, 6 months, i day's work on a page. — Half-bound bazil backs

and corners 184 pages 6/-

26. „ 9 months, i day's work on a page. — Half-bound bazil backs

and corners 276 pages 8/-

27. ,, 12 months, i day's work on a page. — Half-boinid bazil backs

and comers 368 pages 10/-

Printed in AMERICAN Form.
Two days on a page.

28. For 3 months. — Cloth backs and stiffened sides

29. ,, 6 months.— Half-bound bazil backs and corners

30. ,, 9 months. — Half-bound bazil backs and comers

31. ,, 12 months. — Half-bound bazil backs and corners

92 pages

4/6

184 pages

6/-

276 pages

7/6

368 pages

ID/-

SPECIAL LOG BOOK. Printed in form ; one day's work on a page.

No. 32. For 3 months, i day's work on a page. — Cloth backs and stiffened

sides 92 pages 3/6

M 33- J) 6 months, i day's work on a page.— Half-bound bazil backs

and comers 184 pages 5/-

M 34- >i 9 months, I day's work on a page. — Half-bound bazil backs

and comers 276 pages 6/6

,, 35. ,, 12 u'lonths, I day's work on a page. — Half-bound bazil backs

and comers 368 pages 9/-

N.B. — This Log Book contains columns for the names of the persons on the Look-out,
and the hours during which the Lights are exhibited, accc rding to the Merchant Shipping
Act.

yames Imray and Sotis Catalogue,

y<mrnalsy Cargo, Provision Books, &€*,
Signals, Flags, &c. &c,

SHIPS' JOURNALS.

1 qr.— printed, one or two hours. — Stiffened marble paper sides 3/6

2 qr. „ „ half-bound bazil backs and comers 5/6

3 V* »» »» »» II 11 "■• "• 7/~

SEAMEN'S WAGES BOOKS.— Ruled and Printed in Fonn.

With
with an

No. I.
a.
3-

II
II
II

Tables for readily calculating the amount of Wages due to the day or month,
abstract of the Law relative to the payment of Wages.

For 12 men. — Bound in cloth, Si by 54 inches

tt lo ,,

48
54

II
II
II

■ I
II
11

1/6
*/-
2/6

No.

I.
2.
3-
4.

For Captains' use. — in red ba^;!, '^ by Ji inches
„ half.bouadbazii, io„ 6^ „

Mates'

CARGO BOOKS.— Ruled and Printed in Form.

2/6

1/6

i/-

84 .1 Si «/-

8 ,1 S H

8i .1 54 «/-

Cargo Receipt Book, Ruled and Printed in Form for delivery and receipt of Cargo
from ship, with instructions for receiving Cargoes and Bills of Lading, &c &c.

3/6

II
II

Coasters'

SHIPS' PROVISION BOOKS.
With Wines— Printed in Form.
For 6 months.— Half-bound

•■• • • 1

•1
•1

18
34

II
ft

-•• •••
Without Wines

For 6 months. -
•1 " >>
II '8 ,,
.1 34 II

-Half-bound

•1 ••• •••

II ••• • ■

II ... •.*

-Printed in Form.

2/-

3/6
5^6

7/-

1/6

3/6

R ^1

CAPTAINS' ACCOUNT BOOKS.

1 qr.— plain, in marble paper

2 qr. ,, half-bound

1 qr. — ruled faint, in marble paper

2 qr. ,, half-bounu

I qr. — ruled faint and ;^s. d., in marble paper

3 qr. ,, „ half-bound

• •• ••

1/6

3/6

Minories, London.

Skips' Stationery, &c.

All kinds of Ships' stationery are kept in Stock and supplied tn the most,
advantageous terms. The following comprise the descriptions chiefly in demand :—

Advance Notes. Allotment Notes.

Account of 'Wages.

Agreement, Coasting. Agreement, Foreign.

Coasting Articles.

Certificate of Discharge.

Disbursement and Portage Sheets.

Half-yearly Returns, &c. &c.

Demurrage Notices ^ &c.f

Are sold in books containing ao forms, price i». They consist of the following :—

No. I, that the ship is going to load.

No. 2, that the ship is on demurrage while loading.

No. 3, to be given if a full cargo is not supplied.

No. 4, to be given if no cargo is supplied.

No. S, that the ship is ready to unload.

No. 6, that the ship is on demurrage while unloading.

No. 7, to wharfinger to hold cargo till freight, &c., is paid.

yames Jmray and Sotis Catalogue^

LOG SLATES.

New and of superior make— Polished Beech Pramei.

No. I. Single fold 9 by 12 inches

It 2. ,1 I, 10 II 14 II ... ... ... ... ... •••

II 3' i» f» "4 It '4 »f •■• ••• ••• •■• ••• ••"

Ruled in form for one or two days' work ...

^0. I.

.. 2.

>i :>•

» 4-

CHART CASES— Tin Janiii «'^4
(For preserving publlbC^tions fiO'tr« IS'CiP
42 inches in depth, and 6 inches in diameter

»»

10-

12/-
17/6

INTERNATIONAL CODE OP SVONALS-Roped
and toggled complete.— In painted boxes.

Of the best BMnting Manufattured.

No.

No, of KUga

Size

4 ft.

6 in.

by 3 ft. in.

Sit-

„ 3 ft. 9 m.

.1.

»9

Sit.

6 in.

„ 3 ft. 9 in.

6 ft.

in.

,, 4 ft. 6 in.

6 ft.

6 in.

„ 4 ft. 6 in.

8 ft.

in.

„ 5 ft. oin.

in.

„ 6 ft. in.

Pennants 11 ft.

12 ft.

13 ft.

14 ft.
i|ft.

16 ft.

17 ft.

4 10

5 10

6 6

6 10

'/ o

7 I?

d.
O
O
O

o
o
6
o

Additional Flags in Bags.

These Flags are intended to accompany Marryat's Signals, to enabK -rw. ;
to be made corresponding with the International Code of Signals. The siz>t
to those attached to the numbers above.

No. I. 3. 3. 4. .< 6.

Five Flags 2\s. 26s. 32s. 35X. 40^. 45X.

Seven Flags 281. 35 j. 42^. 50*. S+r. 60s.

NoTK. — These prices are only apiiroximate. We are unable to quote permanent prices owing to the
flttctuating price of wool and trades in connexion with it.

.!•;,, i,..tion8
■ siiTKlor

S'ds.
76s.

NAUTICAL, MATHEMATICAL,
METEOROLOGICAL INSTRUMENTS,

&C, &C,

yames Imray mid Sotis Catalogue^

Sextants^ Quadrants^ &c.

;xtant8 of Pillar and Double Frame Pattern, best make, divided on Silver
to lo", with extra power to the inverting Telescope, and
reflector to the Nonms

,( With solid cast limbs of approved patterns, from £$ 5s. to

„ Medium size, bronzed ditto, with extra power Telescope,
neutral tint shades, divided to lo'', strongly recommended,
and warranted of best quality

f. Oval Limb, Silver Arc, with inverting Telescope, &c.

ft Circular Limb, do. do

„ Dollond Limb with Silver Arc, divided to 30", inverting Tele-
scopes, Mahogany Case, &c., to supersede the wood irame
sextant

,t Ditto do. with Ivory Arc do

I, Ditto Pocket in Sling Case from

£ •• d.

13
12

10
10
to

10
o
4

Quadrants.— Brass, Silver Arc, Telescopes, &c., and Back Shades, in Ma-

hc^ny Case, best

„ Ivory Arc, in Mahogany Case, best

Ebony Handle, Ivoiy Arc, in Mahogany Case, best
Single Observation, Ivory Arc, plain and common
„ with Double Tangent ...

and Vertical Screws
and Back Shades ...

4
15
15

10
18

Telescopes to any of the above ...

extra 080

Artificial Horizons, with parallel glasses and mercury, complete

440

Binnacles.— Dolphin Pattern, with Dome Tops and Lamps

;^io los., £14 14s,, £\s iSs., & 17 17 o

,« Skylight Pattern, crown top ;£'4 4s., ;tS S-s., & 660

Octagon Pattern, wood /6 6s., ;^8 8s., ;{^9 9s., & 11 11 o

Pillar, crown top /^7 7s., /i^9 9s., & 12 n o

N.B. — Binnacles of any pattern made to order.

•I

Minories, London.

CompMsea.^Plain Aamuth, with Sight

fi I, Azimuth „ ... ... ... ..i

Best Prismatic Azimuth> with Sights

With Tripods, £i 55. extra.
Mast Head Compasses, for avoiding the Local Attraction, of
any size. With Cylinder Shade and Lamps. Varums prices.

Amplitude,

Stand for die above

Brass Steering, 8, 9, 10, and 11 in.

Wood ditto

Brass Hanging ditto

Every variety of Brass Boat ditto

Wood ditto

Pocket ditto, in brass

Prismatic, in Sling Case

extra

... from 13s. to

from 6s. od. to

from £1 to

,.. from los. to

from 3s. 6d. to

from

£
3

d.
o
o
o

S
I
6
I

Barometers. — Best rosewood, marine, with Sympiesometer and Thermo-
meter ;f 5 Js- to 660

M Best rosewood, with arm and Thermometer, circular front,

ivory scales, and rack motion ;f2 los. to 330

„ Ditto, with round head, and improved tube and cistern,

common ... ... ... ... -.. ■•• ••• ••• 2 10 o

„ Plain ditto, with Thermometer on the door in front ... ... 2 o o

„ Wheel Pattern, various sizes and mounting, from ;^i Ss. to 660

Aneroid Barometers, ditto from ^i is. to 3 10 o

Sympiesometers ..

from

220

Thermometers.— 8 inches long, with box scale

„ 8, 10, 12, and 14-inch Brewers' ditto, in Japan or Copper

cases •■ from 3s. 6d. to

„ Night and day, for registering the greatest degree of heat or

cold during the absence of the observer, from 12s. 6d. to
„ Marine, in a strong Copper case, principally used for taking

the soundings, and ascertaining the temperature at the

bottom and at the surface of the sea ... from £1 Ss. to

016

o o

I 5 o

440

Bourdon's Gauges, to show Pressure or Vacuum, 7I in.

5 ui.
4 in.

it
n

Telescopes.— One, two, and three draw

„ Of superior quality, large object-glasses

2 17 6
2 12 6
226
I 12 6

from £t to 2 10 o
2 to 660

Double Olasses, especially adapted to the use of Captains and Pilots, &c.,

at night ... £» as. to 5 10 o

Log Qlasses, 14 and 28 seconds, common

„ In brass frame

„ Half-hour solid Glasses ...

H One-hour ditto

„ Two-hour ditto

each

6
6
6
6
o

James Imray and Sottfs Catalogue,

Bar afid Compound Magnets from 15s to

Tape measures, from one pole to six poles in length, divided for land sur-
veying, or the measurement of timber, in leather boxes, &c., 6s. to

Brass Spcakmg Trumpets from 5s. 6d. to

Storm Glasses, or Prognosticators from 6s. 6d. to

Steel Joint Dividers, 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8 in. per dozen, 12s. to

„ with Shifting li^ £1 los. to

Biass Joint Dividers, 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8 in. per dozen, 9s. to

,, with Shifting L^ iss. to

Compasses with Pen and Pencil Points, and Box Scale, in case

„ with Steel Joints

Set of Instruments, with Scale, in Fish-skin case

„ with Gteel Joints

„ and Bow Pen

,, Steel Joint Instruments, with Bow Pen, Ivory
Brass Protractor 7s

,, Turned Check Instruments, and Ivory Protractor

„ Round Shank ditto, with Lengthening Bar
Ebony Parallel Rules, 6, 9, 12, 15, 18, 21, and 24-inch
Two-foot Box Gunter's Scales

,, improved by Don

,, Sliding Gunter's Scale

10, 12, 15, 18, and 21-inch Globes, in black frames ... from £2 12s. 6d. to

,, iii high mahpgany frames ... from ;^4 4s. to

£ 'd.
220

Scale, Sector,
6(1., I2S., i6s..

and
and

from IS. to

o
o

1 10

3 °

1 16
o 4
o 6
o 8
o 10

1 2

» IS

2 2

o 4

O 2

o 5

o 7

to 10

21 10

O
O

O
O
O
O

6
6
6
6
6

6
o
o
o
o
o
6
o
o

REYNOLDS' PENDENT LOQ.

In the use of this excellent instrument the vane or rotator only is thrown overboard,
the other part of the instrument being suspended to the ship's side. It is reported to
register with remarkable accuracy. Price £3 3s.

■ v^ fy

MARINE ODOMETER.

Reynolds* Patent.

An instnuneAt for measuring the speed of a vessel's passage through the sea.

JVote.—THK FOLLOWING ARE SOME OF THE SPECIAL ADVANTAGES THE ODOMKTBR
POSSESSES OVER THE ORDINARY PATEKT LoG :—

1. As the Register is fixed on the Ship's quarter rail, it is ready to be referred to at

any time without the trouble of hauling in.

2. The Propeller alone being towed in the water, is the only part at all likely to be

lost ; and as it is maae exceedingly strong and cheap, the instrument is most
etoHomicai as regards its ultimate cost.

3. Should the Propeller at any time become detached, it is immediately detected by

the instrument ceasing to Register ; thu^ avoiding the danger that might result
from the loss of an ordinary Log when being relied upon for distance.

4. The utmost care and attention being bestowed upon the manufacture, ensures its

durability. The only care requiral is to keep the back part and spindle well oiled.

5. It is an established fact that all Logs vary in their results, according to the speed

with which they are drawn through the water ; also ships not being alike in
build, leave different wakes behind them : hence a Log which gives a correct
distance with one ship, will be fast or slow with another Errors arising
from either of tlicse causes can be corrected by simply allowing mor or less
line, as per instructions furnished with each instrument.

THESE INSTRUMENTS are now used by all the Telegraph Cable Ships, a great
many of the principal Steam Ship Companies and firms in London and Liverpool, and by
the Indian and Brazilian Government Ships.

Price with Rotator, Clamp and Bracket Pieces, &c„ complete, .£5 ss.

"- --^ -■> - -^ ..

James Itnray and Son's Catalogue,

i \

BUSS & WS f#piT Jim^l LOG.

The followii^lire some of the special advantages found in using the TafTrail Log.

First. The dial of the Log can be easily inspected at all times, which is particularly
convenient when xNt>8iAg:^)dtovaBne oi^tbe v«89^, the necessity of hauling in being
avoided. '

Second. The r^|st£Vt$"tgdired on board, and constauently is easily accessible. The
rotator only is overboitrd. The strain upon the line is about one-quarter of that of the
submerged Log, which is variously estimated at forty or fifty pounds, sufficient to decrease
the speeid of the vessel to some extent : besides, the greater strain often causes the breakage
of the line and the loss of th^ entire Log.

Third. This Log will be found, ultimately, the cheapest, because only the rotator is
eixposed to danger of loiss, and when tost, can be replaced at trifling cost.

FoyRTH. The substantial manner in which these Logs are made, and the feet that
the regiMering apparatus is not exposed to the action of salt water, may be taken as a
guarantee that they will last far longer than is possible with any submerged Log.

Fifth. The liability of havine the Log ruined, or at least di£;^bled, when crossing
shoals, by striking the bottom, or neing filled with sand, is avoided.

Sixth. The state of the Log being readily seen, prevents the danger of over-running
a given distance when on any course.

Sevknth. Fouling with sea weed is avoided by the gradual taper of the blades, and
the fteedom from obstructions, such as knots or eyes.

Eighth. This Log will indicate accurateh «* a Icnvtr speed than any submerged Log,
becaust there is less slif, moing to the spiral form of the blades of the rotator.

Ninth. The greater part of the damage caused by hauling in is avoided in this Log,
as that is so seldom required : besides, the b'r Ics being spiraiare much stronger.

Price (complete with line)
Rotator (if sold separately)

C\ 10 o
o 15 o

Minories, London.

BAIN AND AINSLEY'S

COURSE INDICATOR.

This instrument is extremely simple in construction. Any one possessing ordinary
intelligence can use it. By it the Deviation of the Compass can readily be ascertained in
all latitudes from observations of the sun or stars ;fS 'o o

James Imray and Son's Catalogue,

TOOVEY'S AZIMUTH DIAL.

This instmmen^ for determining the errof of the Compass {vtmatum and deviaium
combined) at sea, is a modification of what is called the Dumb Card ; it is used in con-
nexion with Godfrey's 7%me At$m$ttk Chart, and the two will be found verv useful
auxiliaries to all who are in command of iron ships and steamers. Price, wiUi tripod
stand ... ... £i los.

PATENT SELF-REOISl ERING LOGS.

Bliss & Co.'s (New York) Taffrail Log

Walker's Taffrail

Massey's

„ Propeller Log

Reynolds' Pendent L^

„ Odometer (a self-registering Log, with the apparatus fixed on the

. quarter rail of the Ship — the vane or rotator only being thrown

overboard)

4
4

3
3

«.

lO
lO
lO

3
3

5 S

PATENT LIQUID COMPASS.

The Card or Dial consists of a metal plate floated, by means of air-vessels, in liquid ;
it Ls perfectly steady under any amount of vibration, or pitching, or rolling of the Vessel,
and at the same time is as quick in its action as the lightest compass ; and it is guaran-
teed to remain so on the longest voyage ; it is equally as sensitive in fuie weather as in
heavy, and, although especidly applicable to steamers, in which the vibration has hereto-
fore been a ereat detriment in ascertaining the true course made, it is no less useful in a
sailing vessel. — For steam-boats it is superior to all other Compasses in use. Size of
Card, 6, 74, 9, and lo inches ... from ;f4 iQr.

PATENT SOUNDING MACHINES.

Walker's (Birmingham)
Massey's

£ ,.d.
250
3 10 o

LANTERNS, BELLS, AND FOG-HORNS.

Lamps for Sailing and Steam-vessels fitted up according to the New Regulations of
the Board of Trade. These are of various sizes and patterns, and can be had either
in tin (japanned) or in copper. Those with reflecting dioptric lenses are strongly recom-
mended, as they give light of unusual brilliancv, and are but little more expensive.

Bells and F<^-Homs are kept in stock, as the Regulations oblige ves.sels to carry them
for use in thick weather. They are of various sizes and prices.

Minories, London.

Atlases.

The following Atlases, published by Messrs. G. Philip and Son, contain all recent
gec^raphical discoveries. The maps are elegantly and clearly engraved, and the system
of colouring adopted very much increases their usefulness. Being publications of con-
siderable excellence, we recommend them with confidence : —

IMPERIAL LIBRARY ATLAS. A series of new and authentic Maps, engraved
from original Drawings, by John Bartholomew, F.R.G.S. Edited by William
Hughes, F.R.G.S. Accompanied by a valuable Index of Reference. Complete
in one handsome volume. Half-bound Russia, gilt edges £S Sh

GENERAL ATLAS OP THE WORLD. A series of new and authentic Maps,
delineating the Natural and Political Divisions of the Empires, Kingdoms, and
SUtes of the World £3 Zh

CLA8SICAL, HISTORICAL, AND SCRIPTURAL ATLAS. A series of
Forty-nine Maps, illustrating the Ancient Classics, Historians, and Poets ; and
forming a complete vade mecum to the Classical Student, and an interesting book
of reference to the lover of General Literature. Complete in one large voliune.

£i 3/-
THE FAMILY ATLAS OF PHYSICAL, GENERAL, AND CLASSI-
CAL GEOGRAPHY ; Fifty-seven Maps ; accompanied by illustrative letter-
press, describing the soil, resources, and chief natural productions of each country ;
with a copious Consulting Index. Bound in cloth, gilt edges, £i 15s. ; or half-
bound Turkey morocco, gilt edges ;^2 2/-

LIBRARY ATLAS. A collection of forty-two modem, and five ancient Maps, illus-
trative of the important events in ancient history. Accompanied by a copious
Consulting Index. Bound in cloth, gilt edges, 15s. ; or, with the Maps interleaved,
half-bound Turkey morocco, cloth sides, gUt edges £11/-

POPULAR ATLAS OF THE WORLD. A series of forty-two Maps, constructed
from the most recent Autho"ties. With a copious Consulting Index, carefully
compiled. Bound in cloth 12/6

CABINET ATLAS. A series oi thirty-four Maps, embiacing the principal countries
of the world. With a copious Consulting Index. Bound in cloth ... 10/6

POPULAR ATLAS OF PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. A series of beautifiilly

' engraved Maps and Plates, illustrating the natural features of the globe, the

geographical distribution of natural phenomena, and their connection with the

industrial pursuits of mankind. Bound in cloth, gilt edges 12/6

COUNTIES OP ENGLAND. A series of Maps reduced from the Ordnance
SiTRVEY, and embodying an amount of detail and accurate deUneation not to be
obtained in any similar work. The railway information is brought down to the
latest date £2 2/-

AUSTRALIAN COLONIES. A series of Maps, on a large scale, of the separate
Colonies, including a general Map of Australia, and Maps of New Zealand and
Tasmania. The whole constructed from Government Surveys and other reliable
authorities. The routes of the different explorers are accurately laid down, and
the information contained in the Maps is brought down to the present date. '

£1 "/6 I

JAMES IMRAY AND SON, MINORIES, LONDON, £.

James Imray and Son's Catalogue,

.?>>>?.5i\^ K

,1,..

rtn'I .£1 ,'i;««n'M X^ l»f', ■ii'-jq .•■•;;'f;i^

CHRONOMETERS.

A large number of these Instruments is kept it and constantly

rated Purchasers may freely inspect the Rate Book; thus they have
the opportunity of making such a selection as will give them confidence
in the correct performance of the Instrument If not approved after a
twelvetnonth's trial, the Chronometer may be exchanged for another.

CHRONOMBTBRS reisprung, i«>«4juated, ratedi bought, or exchanged.

£ s. d.
Best Chronometers, going two days ... from 25 o o

„ , „ eight days from 35 o o

„ „ for the Pocket, in gold cases ... from 35 o o

SECOND-HAND CHRONOMETERS

Kept in stock, at various prices.

Chronometers Lent on Hire,

Mitiories, London.

Messrs. Imray and Son

Beg leave to inform Owners and Shipmasters, that they are
prepared to supply every description of

Instrument,

CHART, OR BOOK

(English ai>4 Foreign])^

which may be desired for Sea use or for Ship purposes. And
they undertake that they shall be of the best quality, which their
long standing in the Trade, and their extensive connexion with
all branches of it, enable them to offer on the most reasonable
terms.

James Imray and Son's Catalogue.

494A. THE MINIATURE MEDICINE CASE. Prepared and arranged by
Messrs. H. & T. Kirby & Co. Price, fitted with Medicines and Surgical
Dressings 30/-

The selection of Medfcines is particularly adapted for Shipmasters and persont going
abroad. It is not intended to supersede the Regulation Chest, but to supplement it with
active valuable Ready Remedies lor common ailments such as

Cholera and Diarrhoea.

Dysentery.

Fevers.

Faintness, &c.

Coughs and Colds.
Indigestion.
Liver Affections.
Gout and Rheumatism.

Constipation.

Pain and Sleeplessness.

Debility.

Sprains and Bruises, &c.

It contains twelve bottles of Medicine, Surgical Dressings, and a Guide Book, with
a Table of Warnings stating what certain symptonu indicate, and also an Ittdex of
Diseases and the Remedies most suitable for their treatment, together with other useful
information. The remedies are in (lo.se8 ready for use, so that no further compounding
is required, and each bottle is distinctly labelled with the use and dose of the medicine
it contains.

wfmmiimimmFi^'-

^..