iiM a^^ ^"^^O \^. #< IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) *^% * .^^ i fc Z. K II! !.0 1.1 11.25 l^|2|8 12.5 " i. UUU L8 U. III! 1.6 V] 7] .^^ ^^> 'Cj '^ .9 yvM W Photographic Sdaices Corporation 23 WES1 MAIN STKEET WEBSTER, N.Y. 145S0 (716) 872-4503 '^^ Zi CIKM/iCMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICIVIH Collection de microfiches. Canadian institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques ^ sJs. ;\ iV > ©1984 Technical and Bibliographic Notes/Notes techniques at bibliographiques The Institute has attempted to obtain the best original copy available for filming. Features of this copy which may be bibliographically unique, which may alter any of the images in the reproduction, or which may significantly change the usual method of filming, are checked below. S D D D D D D Coloured covers/ Ccuverture de couleur I I Covers damaged/ Couverture endommagie Covers restored and/or laminated/ Couveiture restaurie et/ou pellicul6e I I Cover title missing/ Le titre de couverture manque I j Coloured maps/ Cartes gdographiques en couleur Coloured ink (i.e. other than blue or black)/ Encre de couleur (i.e. autre que bleue ou noire) I I Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ Planches et/ou illustrationo en couleur Sound with other material/ Reli6 avec d'nutres documents Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion along interior margin/ La re liure serrie peut causer de I'ombre ou de la distortion le iong de la marge intArieure Blank leaves added during restoration may appear within the text. Whenever possible, these have been omitted from filming/ II se peut que ctirtaines pages blanches ajoutdes lors d'une restauration apparaissent dans le texte, mais, lorsque cela 6tait possible, ces pages n'ont pa^ 6t6 filmies. Additional comments:/ Commentaires suppl^mentaires; L'Institut a micrufilmd le meilleur exemplaire qu'il iui a 6t6 possible de se procurer. Les details de cet exemplaire qui sont paut-dtre uniques du point de vue bibliographique, qui peuvent modifier une image reproduite, ou qui peuvent exiger une modification dans la mithode normale de filmage sont indiqu6s ci-dessous. I I Coloured pages/ D Pages de couleur Pages damaged/ Pages endommagdes n Pages restored and/or laminated/ Pages reutauries et/ou pelliculees r~7| Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ Pages ddcolor^es, tachetdes ou piqu6es Pages detached/ Pages ddtachees Showthrough/ Transparence f prid igale de I'impression tuppltimentary materii Comprend du materiel supplif/ 12X 16X 20X 24X 28X 32X The copy filmed here hes been reproduced thenks to the generosity of: Legislature du Quebec Quebec The imeges appeering here mn the best quality possible considering the condition and legibility o' the original copy and in keeping with the filming contract specifications. Original copies in printed paper covers are filmed beginning with the front cover and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, or the back cover when appropriate. All other o/iginal copies are f Jmed beginning on the first page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impression. The last recorded frame on each microfiche shall contain the symbol — ^ (meaning "CON- TINUED"), or the symbol y (meaning "END"), whichever applies. Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included In one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand cornw, ^eft to right and top to bottom, as riiany frar.>ies as re(:uired. The following diagrams illustrate the method: L'9xempl&ire n\m4 fut reproduit grice d la gAnirositi de: Legislature du Quebec Quebec Les images suivantes ont 4t* reproduites avec le plus grand soin. compte tenu de la condition et de le nettet* de rexemplaire filmi, et en conformity avec les conditions du contrat de filmage. Les exemplaires origlnaux dont la couverture en papier est imprimis sent filmto en commen^ant par le premier plat et en terminant soit par la dernlAre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impresslon ou d'illustration, soit par le ssvcond plat, selon le cas. Tous les autres exemplaires origlnaux sont filmte en commenpant par la premlAre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impresslon ou d'illustration et en terminant par la dernlAre page qui comporte une telle empreinte. Un dee symboles suivants apparaftra sur la dsrnlAre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbols -^ signifie "A SUIVRE", le symbols y signifie "FIN". Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent Atre fiimis A dee taux da rMuction diffirents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit en un seui clichA, il est filmA A partlr de Tangle supirieur gauche, de gauche A droite, et de haut en bas, sn prenant le nombre d'Images nAcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mithode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 ■ .^^. ^'*.<^^%9^ » QUEBEC: PRINTED AT THE *'MORNING CHRONICLE'' OFFICE. 1868. ■^•"^PWP" INVESTIGA.TIOI^S or A NATURALIST BBTWEBN MINGAN AND WATCHICOUTI. LABRADOR. Labrador has always been an interesting region for the investigation of nature. Its aboriginesand their modoRof living. Itsmag- niticent lakes and picturesque rivers and fisheries, and other sources by which man can subsist on this rock-bound coast, are subjects which should claim attention at this age of advancement in human knowledge. It was visited by Audubon prior to the issue of his great work on the " Birds of America." In- deed, he knew that without a thorough orni- thological tour of research through this northern breeding-ground for birds, his book would contain but few facts in addition to those given by Wilson and other early writers on our quadrupeds and birds. The naturalie^t who can now go to the trouble of retracing Audubon's foot-steps on the coast, miy ascer- tain the accuracy and truthfulness of thin clever writer. This was one of the objects of my late visit to the north coast cf the St. Lawrence. 1 intimated to several of my cor- respondents, in the United States and Canada, that i« was my intention to make a trip along the coast during the summer of 1867, for the purpose of identifying, collecting and study- ing the eggs of birds found breeding on the coast, and, as far as could bo ascertained, in the interior of the country. To cover my expenses, I requested subscribers to this col- lection. The appeal brought no response from Canadian students, but from the United States, one gentleman, E. A. Samuels, Esq., of Boston, came to my aid, and subscrib'^d for four shares, which he kindly sent in advance. Through the kindness of P. Fortin, Esq., I obtained a passage in the schooner Notre Dame de la Vicloire, Capt. N. Blais, who sailed from Que- bec on the 1 7th May. After a passage of 12 days, wo arrived at Esquimaux Point. I had a young companion on board, named P. Fournier, who was appointed fishery guardian for the Watchsheshoo station, and the Govern- ment supplied him with a good keeled boat, which he had with him on board. As the schooner could not land us easily at Watchsheshoo, wc determined to part from her at Esquimaux Point. Here wo were about 372 miles from Quebec, and amongst strangers. My companion requested nio to accompany him to the Rev. Mr. BeHnd, the Cure of the settlement. After introducing ourselves Labrador fashion, to this extraordin- ary good man, ho requested us to dine with him, and wo passed the remainder of our first day very pleasantly. Mr. Beland was then preparing to go on his annual mission as far as Natashquaun, afterwards crossing and mak- ing a tour of the Island of Anticosti, terminat- ing the island mission at West Point. The mission is altogether performed by sea. House after house is visited by means of a small boat or barge, ac it is called by the people of the coast. These vessels in size and form arc ex- cellent for coasting purposes. Mr. Beland's barge is a model of its kind ; schooner-rigged and very comfortable. Two men are employed to accompany him. They sail the vessel under his direction, cook and help him in the promotion of his mission ; indeed they were treated by the people more like his compa- nions than Bailors. After we got our boat ready and everything.8ecure for a start on the morning of the 29th, we were introduced to lTiT"V^TT^,WW8WR?Wr!T'*^ v?>^ a young muD uanied Owcu Muldoori, ^vho iii- ten'il to go down to WutuIiuhcHluio on l)imi- ucHH. We offfred liiia H iittssago inovided ho would actus pilut TliiH oiler hu iitcuptcd, aud wuput toHcanftur breukTiiHt. Esiiiiimuiix I'oiut is only throu hourK' sail with a luir wind from Mingjin. Tho houaes aro all wooden, ami built on an extensive croscont-formed sand-bar. A very largo iuland runs parallel withthepoint, Hiiailar to that at Mingan, and there is sufficient room and excellent anchor- age for a largo number of vessels. I could not ascertain tho accurate number of residents, but from tho extent of the sand-bar occwpii'd by houses, it is apparently larger and more pros- perous than Natashfiuauu. Tho people were then engaged in tlio herring fishery. On our way down the coast, and a few miles from Esquimaux Point, I shot a beautiful spe- cimen of the Northern Phalaropc {Thalaro^m hi/pcrboreua.) It was shot while sitting in the rough sea. When it was reached and taken into tho boat, our pilot, who has lived many years on tho coast, stated that the bird was a stranger to him, that he never had seen a Bpecimen before. The sail from Esquimaux Poiut as far as Attepctal Bay was delightful, and ali that could bo desired. We had fair ■wind all day on the 29tli. It was only on this day's voyage that I bogan to realise tho wild- Jiess of northern scenery — it was altogether Hew to mo. We sailed down through innu- tnerablo rocky islands, zig-zag and full of diffi- cult passages ; indeed, if we had not been for- tunate in having an experienced guide to steer us through, we could never have made our way in safety. Being anxious to commence my Oo.ogical collection, I visited a few of the Is- lands on our way, Tlie Islands below Esqui- maux Point are celebrated as the breeding places of tlie common Eider Duck (Somatcn'a mollissima,) Black-backed Gull (Luriis marimi^,) and Herring Gull (^Lanis argentatun,) during tho months of May and June, Haying ob- tained sufficient specimens of the species, we proceeded on our way, and arrived at Attepetal Bayin the evening. This fishing station was occupied by a man named Victor Blais, wife and child, Tho nearest neighbor being some distance below at Crow River. On landing, at tho entrance of tho river, I noticed the spotted Sandpiper {Trinffoides macularius.) Our pilot and Mr. Blais were old friends and wo were made welcome. Next morning, 30th, niter breakfast, I wandered into tho woods wiiero I noticed tho Uobin (Tuniua mi>fraloriua,) Wilson's Thrush (Tardus funceiicens, Snow- bird (Junco hyemalis,) and Whi^-crowued Sparrow (Zonotncia Leucophrys.) Tho forests north of this bay aro dense, and thoy bayn a close resemblance t> tho woods of St. Joachim, cast of (Quebec ; in fact, tho general flora as far as I could sec, belongs to that of northern Canadian soil. I noticed tho first Butterfly {Aryi/nnis chanclea.) Mosquitoes appeared iu tho evening. May Slst — To-day is the last allowed bylaw to take away tho eggs of sea fowl, I visited several Islands opposito Attepetal Bay, but the Indians had been on them tho day previous, and took away all tho eggs that they could find. Heard tlio song of tho Purple Finch (^Carpadacus inirpurcus.) One would wonder how tho common Eider duck exists on tho coast, when a person knows that during the months of May and June, scarcely a duck that forms its nest, and Inys its eggs, ci*.n be allowed to hatch tho latter. Rut Providence wills it that the species must exist and foltil its time on the northern coasts. In the first place, tho Eider ducks arc not gene- rally sought after and destroyed for food. It appears also that tho greatest number of tho young ducks mako their way to tho far north, and during their first and second years, aro pelagic, but going in largo flocks from one part of the northern hemisphere to tho other. Tlicyare supposed to produce eggs on the third year. The Indians are enemies of tho Eider duck. Wlien these wandering people arrive on the coast, it is just the time when eggs are abund- ant. From five to seven hundred Indinns traverse the coast westward towards their mis- sion at Mingan, On their cotirsc, all the bird- frequeuting islands are visited by these Iiulianii ; all the eggs are taken off and eaten as food. The down is taken from their nests and sold to the Hudson's Bay Company, or to traders while on tho coast. I have laid down on beds of Eider down made on the coast worth from £10 to X'l 3. Tho Labrador Indians are armed with powerful fowling pieces, and tho Eider ducks being a great relish to them, they aro sent tumbling right and left. If they aro •fP^^VT' ' ' . I "^W T^ 4 spoken to regarding Iho infringnienl of tho law, they Hay in dcfunHO that birds and their eggs aru tho only food which they < au prociiiu on tbeir way to tho niiKsion — that as tho coun- try belongs to them, thuy have a porfuct right to do as they please. Tliu eggs of tliu Eider duck {Somakria molUnisiina), Common GuiU limot, {Uria ringvia,) lUzor-billed Auk (Alca tarda), Grisat Blacli-backed Gull, (Lurus mnri- nua) and Herring Gull, (Larusar.' which they claim their own, and they are apparently contented ; Mingan has its mission, with the privilege of the una of one miln from the mouth of the river for Indians to fish in. If, then, the Government would remedy the evils which I have already related, it would be well to establish a misLion at the mouth of the Natashquaun river, near the Hudsou's Bav Post, giving them the use of the liver during their stay. This, I am satis- fied, would not only put a stop to their presenc determination to destroy salmon on their spawning grounds, but chack revenge, and pre- vent them in a great degree from roaming along the coast, robbing birds of their eggs, and shooting every wild-fowl that chance may place in their way. Then the sea-fowl which frequont the islands between Mingan and Na- tashquauu would not be so greatly molested, for it must be borne in mind that the Indians of Labrador are, generally speaking, good Catholics, attached to their religion, and honest to a degree. They would not willingly leave their missfbn to go a great distance for food, provided salmon and geals were at hand. The latter animal would take up more of their attention, and as they receive three Rhillings per gallon from tho Hudson's Bay Company for lis oil, thoy could obtain sufficient food, in exchange, to pi'cvent them from killing fish and animals out of pure revci.ge. It is posi- tively desirable that the Government should give this matter their serious consideration and attention. lam led to go so far in making this proposition, because tho Natashquaun .J considered an expensive r-ver to the fly-fisher, 'i'hefishin^pools are a great distance from the mouth of tile river, and the Lontirgof food, &c., to the house at the falls must, indeed, be tedious and laborious work. I think it probable that it will not be easily leased again for fly- fishing. However, for net-fishing, it is, I be- lieve, one of the best rivers on the coast. There is another cause which produces en- mity from the Labrador Indians towards the Government ; that is, they say that no assist- ance or compensation has been given them for the ious of their formvi privikgea^-they r 1- I V ^^m 9 aro ander the impression that tho rivers and the couatry still belong to them. They say that unless ■ something substantial is done they will continue to act aa they please. Now, Commander Forttn informed them, at Natash- quaun, that last year the Government granted £500 for their use, audlthat a part of it was distributed at Mingp.u. They denied all knowledge of this. I beliovc, however, the sum expended at the mission was small — only sixty-six dollars' worth of provisions to a few old Indians who were not able to work or hunt. The Commander found it utterly impossible to convince them that a grant uf money was made, and thuy told him as much. Where has this live hundred pounds gone to ? Tho Indians say that they never received a cent of it, and if it has gone from the Indian Reserve Fund, in whose possession is it now ? Through the kindness of Peter McKenzie, Es(i., of tho Hudson's Bay Company, at Minj^an, I had tho pleasure of examining the accounts of the Company against the Governuent for goods delivered to tho Indians at Mingan ; but, in all cases, the sums were small, and the gratuities from the Company to the Indians are much greater than those from the Government. This is strange, but perfectly true. Tho Labrador Indians are a peacea}ilp peo- ple, having great regard for religion and mora- lity. Several of both sexes can read their own language, and when n,t the mission, they rogularly go to church twice a day on Sunday. They have evidently abandoned the savage modes of life attributed to their predecessors. Yet, a stranger can discern a 'ove of fellow- ship existing among them, which is probably caused by the ties of relationship. Like all other tribes of North American Indians, they are happy when together in camp. Each family hunt and work for themselves — jealousy does not exist — ho quarrels arise among tho weaker sex — indeed, tho utmost harmony and good will prevails even when tho wigwams stand close together, and th<3ir occupants number over five hundrod souls. I have seen more real affection exhibited at the parting of two families of these semi-civili^sed people than could be evinced from tho breasts of nations long advanced in civilization. Being poor fishenneD . they do not care to capture fish by auy other mode but with tho spear^au instrumcut which tliey handle with great dexterity. They excel in tho structure of canoes, and the amount of labor and sub- stantial work i>rt on them is astonishing— indeed, it is tho only good piece of work made by them. Canoe-making commence when the mission is over, and after each fami- ly strips their barge, placing :t high and dry, bottom upwards, they resort to their canoes, and proceed up the rivers to their winter hunt- ipg grounds. During my passage through tho islands, opposite almost every cove or harbor stood tho bare poles of a deserted wigwam. There appears to be a general understanding between these people regarding those roofless tene- ments. They are acquainted with the posi- tion of all their resting places, and in case of storm or any other fatality, the locality is made, the barge anchored, and tho female por- tion of the family together with tho covering for the wigwam landed. — In fifteen or twenty minutes, the Indian has a house comfortably erected on n rock, and lays his head down, per- fectly satisfied that he is surrounded by tho sea and safe from enemies. The men gene- rally resemble the European in stature; evidently strong, but having little confidence in their strength, they succumb to , the power of the settler, and will run away sooner than receive a blow. There i.s no ceremony with them on entering a house— in they come, one after the other, without apology, and sit down in silence. If they ate made welcome, tuey become familier at once., and then their true character is shown. Curiosity lead them to examine every article within reach, and even go so far as to open trunks, &c., and look over their contents, but never take anything away. They are fond of music, singing and dancing. Tlie young Indian maiden who is considered a fair dancer and singer is certain of obtaining a good hunter for a husband. Tho women are, without exception, stout and healthy- in fact, stronger than the men. They perform all tho heavy work while in camp, and each take a great interest in her family. Old and young wear a conical cap on their heads ; it is made of alternate pieces of :!d aid blue cloth. Tho latter colors are those adopt id by tho tribe, and the men sometimes wear leggings and gauntlets of these combined colors. Tho Chief's llag was hoisted when tho Hudson's 8 ^m ^ ^^m 10 "Baj Co.'b steamship Labrador arrived opposite the Natashquaun Biver. It was embellished with the sun, moon, star and a beaver. On aslc- ing theChief regarding his a ioption of the three former, he stated that they were Hoavenly bodies, and he thought them appropriate. There is an In:■ ■^ ",' * ■';■■ '' U ) . aod ia the vicioity there is ati old iDdian barying-ground, said to be over one hundred years old. The Arctic Tern occupy rocky is- lands near the river. In several nests were young birds in the down, while in others, freshly laid eggs were found, which is the case with almost all sea-fowl that depend on fish for food. July 16. — I arrived at Mingan at 9 o'clock p.m., Just eight hours too late for the steamer ; however, I was kindly received by Peter Mc- Eenzie, Esq., of the H. B. Co. The Mingan is narrow, but a pretty river, having abundance of sand on its banks. A tributary, called the Manitou, falls into it a few miles from its entrance, and the fishing pools are the easiest of access of any on the coast. About fourteen Indian families were in camp at Mingan when I arrived. Six gentlemen were angling for salmon, and had possesHiou of the river by lease. They were almost daily tormented by these crafty Indians, who represented that they had nothing to eat and were starving. Consequently, they were supplied with as much food and salmon as could be spared. But this was not sufficient. It appears that one of tbem reported in camp that ho had seen a gen- tleman gaff salmon in the whirlpoof at the foot of the rapids. The report took well, and Mr. Brulot, the fishery guardian, was told that if the white men speared or gaffed salmon, they would do likewise, and intimated that on Sunday, the 2 Ist, they would proceed to the pool and spear as many as they required. And when the day came, they were as good as their word. When Mr. Brulot, together with a man from the post and myself, arrived at the pool, we found several fine fish laying in a cavity of the rock. After a good deal of argu- ment, in which they held that th? country be- longed to God and themselves, we induced them n»t to kill any more, and after securing the fish, they entered their canoes and returned to camp. July 22nd — Noticed the ruby-crowned Wren (Reffulua calendula) feeding its yuuug in the woods near the river. In a small clearing behind the post, a small blue Butter- fly (Lyeaena Seudderii) occurred. This species has been found at Lake Winnipeg, also at tho Sascatchewan and London, Ontario. I took specimens of another Butterfly {Argynnia Boisduvalii) at Mingan. Great Slave Lake and Hudson's Bay are the only other localities from which it has been received. It does not occur in Upper Labrador. Mr. Scudder, of Boston, informs me that this species is closely allied to his A iVonlinus, from the White Moun- tains. July 24th — I accepted an invitation from Mr. McKenzie to accompany him to tho Bo- main river, where he intended to angle for salmon. This river enters the sea about half way between Mingan and Esquimaux Point. The falls and fishing pools are near its entrance. We arrived in the afternoon. It rained heavi- ly in the north on the day previous, and tho river was not clear. Fortunately I managed to hook afresh run salmon of about eleven pounds. This was tho only fish seen that evening. Next day tho river was not much improved, and we concluded to explore it. Everything needful having been placed in the canoe, we started, and f n the afternoon our rods were in our hands again at the pools of the north-west branch, about ten miles inland- Salmon are abundant in the branch at this season. There arc three or four fulls, each more elevated as we advance ; one in particular is formed that salmon leap it with difficulty. Therefore the fish collect in the rapids, and good sport can be had about the middle of July when tho water is low. Ou tho following day we returned to MJ igan, where I remained until the 30th, when, through the kindness of Sir Grcville Smyth, who came from Europe to fish the Mingan, I had a pass- age in tho schooner Mary, Captain Joncas, for Quebec. ea ,ho ng r- les tha ook St