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'Ill
.IIILII).
wnir NOT
i'i;i.\Ti;i) in
rjKOLOfaCAL SUIiVEY OF CANADA
(!. M. IJANVSOX, C..M.(;., LLI)., F.lt.S., Diiikctok
i{ i<: poirr
ON ■IIII-: Cdl N-niV IIKIWKKN
! l;:|
.VIILIII.ISCA LAKIi IP CIIDIICIIILL lill
wnil NOI'KS ON TWO HOC'I'MS 'I'li.WI'.M.KD HICI\V|;i-,\ I'llh; ciMliCIIII.I.
AM) S.\M\Arcili;\\AN KIVKHS
IIV
.). lUKI! TVIilMlLr., .M.A.. V.C.fi., }■]
As>i^i-i;ii la
I). II. uowi.iNi;, ii.A.sf.
( ) TTAWA
riilNTKl) I'.V S. K. DAWSON, I'lMN'I'KK 'I'O TIIKj ilKKN S MOST
i:.\ci:M,KN'r ma.ikstv
1 H'M>
(Jkoh
HE
Miii,-
),y ii iiiii;
extciidin
oriptions
Willi fi\-,
the work
(
J>0l)IOn;|C'i|
I'.nii
H
'I
I- i
CKoiiriic M. Dawson, CJf.C, T.L.D., F.U.8., .^c,
Director (l(?ol();^ical Survey of Ciuiiulii.
Sill, — 1 Iiiivii tlie honour ti) invsciit licrcwitli a Itcpoi't, iit'companied
by a map on tlie scalu of twenty-tivti miles to one inuii, on the country
extciuHni,' from Athabasca Lake to Ciuirciiiil Uivei-, with l)ri('f des-
criptions of the routes followed between the t'liurchill atid Saskatche-
wan rivers. The rejiort has been somewhat delayed i)V my lonj^
absence durihi; two seas<i;is in tlie far iini'th, since the completion of
the work to which it relates.
1 have the honour to be, sir,
Your obedient servant.
J. nuwii tyi?1!i:ll.
(ieoloijical Survey Othce,
l'.)lii .Mav, 18!)t).
i I
u
ATHA
XOTK -77/' ///
111' riiJidiK
•lii'i-< f/lri'ii //iroiij/iii'if //lis r.
'/>!irl rr/rr /,, //„■ //
TllC |1|'C.-
<>ut. in tlic >
sliiirc of |,a
I'ui'intt 1>
tiie same ki
taut. Duii
surveyed iin
betwt'eii (|ii(
Tile jfeo^'r
niiule in- J,i
^\ lii'n iiiKicc
iiiiule l)v the
Tlie iiiii])
i^UWlill^r f,.y,
"f t^luircliill
C'liij)j)euy;,n,
Mr. W. Oifilv
The Chuicl
of I lie enter])
bined to torn
fornietl duo of
i
IIKPOKT
ON 'IIIK COINTUY lir.TWKKX
U ■
ATHABASCA'LAKE AND CHUHCIIILL HIVEIl
HY
J. I'AWn TYRIJELL,
ASSIS'l'Kl) liV 1). II. l)0\VI-lN<i.
'IJr
iNlltoDUCTION.
The |)rt's('i>t report is chii'lly tlic ivsiilt fif an exploration ciirricd
out ill the .suiiiiiicr ot' 1S'.I2, to wliicli is addcii tiie survey of tlie north
sliore of Luke Athiibasu i, inaiic in tiie suMuiicr of It^'J.'S.
hurini,' part of the summer of iiS'.)L', whih' we were tiM\(!liinL( alnni;
tiie same routes, 'Mr. I). 1'.. Dowliii;; acted as my topni^rapiiieai assis-
tant, hurin;,' tiie remain(hM' of tlii! suiiiiiiur lie ti'avelied over and
surveyed indepi'iident routes, and his reports on these are ineiuded
lietween ijuotatioii mariis.
The j,'eoL;r.ipiiieai surxcy of the iioi'tli shore of Lake Atiiahasea was
made liy .Limes W. Tyrrell, C.l''., in IS',*.'!, actiiii,' as my assistant.
When iliiaceompaiiied by either of these gentlemen t hi' siiixcys were
made by the writer.
•
The map aecompaiiyiiii; this rejiort has been compiled by Mr.
Dowling from the above surveys, with the addition of the survey
of (;)huridlill Hiver by Mr. T. I''avveett, D.L.S, The po-ition of j-'ort
<.'liip])evvyaii, near the west end of Lake .\thabasca is taken from
Mr. W. Ogiivie's map of Athabasca Mivcr.
The Churchill JSiver was tirst ascended from Fiol; Portage by soni(>
of the enterpiisiiig fur-traders from Montn'al, who afterwards com-
bined to form the North-west Company, and since that time it has
formed one of the principal canoe-routi's into the more distant country
.\-.>l<t:l
Map.
Ivuly trailc
rmitcs,
»!
1/
(') l>
ATIIAIIASCA t.AKK ANI> ( 111 lirllir.l, lll\i;il.
'1'. h'liuc.ll.
I', 'riiniri-.
I). Tll.^lnl.-.
A. S. C.L-li
rune.
nil I 111' l)iiiiks iil'tlic Alliiilmsci iiMil M.iiki'iizio livers. Sir Ali'xmulcr
.MiU'ki'ii/ii', Sir .iDlm l'"raiikliii, Sir .lulm liicli.irdMin and Sir (Jcnrijo
hack, all I iiiNclltMl aliiiii;' tliis stream mi tlii'ir \\i\\ In ami t'roiii tlio -
nortli ami lane ;;i\('ii many yliiwiiii; ai'cininls cit' tlic iii'aill it'll! sci'iicry
on its lianks, while maps of the ri\ i-r, eliielly liased mi t he surveys miiih*
l)y l>a\id 'riinmpsmi, afterwai'ds iistronomer un the liiteriiatiuiiiil
jimimiary (/miimissimi, are inililished in their work-'.
[ii JSSs, '{". |'"aw('ell, l>. I,.S., made a mirinmeler siir\ey nf tiie river
t'roiii .Meliiy i'lirta^e in Vnv^ l'mtaj,'e, Iml I he j,'ei)li);;ieai iliaraetir of
its hanks, and ot' the surrdiindiiiL,' emiiitry have, up tn the preMlit,
remained iinknnwn, exi-e|il tor the hriet' desniplimi hy Sir .lulm
1! ii'liai(Niiii.*
In I7'."l. I'hilip 'ruiiier was sent hy liie Urilish ( hi\ ci iiment tit
I'ort ( 'hippewy.'in In determine the triilh i>t' snme reports alimit the
nearness of that piaee to the I'aeilic ( ter.iii. In the follow iin,' year,
after il'.'lerminitiu' t he lal it ude iiinl |nii;;iiude of the fort, lie made a
survey of the north shore (or ;ierhaps of hot li slimes) of l.ake .Vtha-
hasea, as far eastward as the mouth of Stone liiver. His survey was
doiihtless incorpmaied in .\rrowsmitli s mapof I'liilish North .\inrriia,
liut no aci'oiint. of his Journey is known to he in existence.
In IT'.'li, I >a\ id Tlimnpsmi left his 'i'radiiiL; 1 Ioum' on ( 'huichill liivei'^
and ascended lieindeer liiver to lieindier lake, followed and surveyed
tile w est side of t his lake to Canoi liiv er, ascended Canoe liiver, crossed
Wollaston Lake, and deseeiultd .'^tone Kiver to its mouih in Atl:a-
hasea i.,ake, stopjiiiii;' at a "lolistick, "eul hy i'hillip Turner at tluM'ii.lof
his survey live years liefore. Mis map of the route is incorporated in
his I.UL;e maiiust!ri])t map of the Northwest Territories now in the
posse-sion of t he ( 'lown i<ands department of < Int.ii io.
In iS.so atul l.^SI, the late Mr. .\. S. ( 'ochiaiie, then a topoyiaphiral
assistant mi the (!eoloL,dcal Survey, made a lrack--.uivev from ('undier-
land Mouse on the Saskatclievvan, norl!;vvard hy l''ioi; l'ortai,'c to liein-
deer Lake, thence noilhwaid and westward up the ( 'ochiane or Ico
|{iver, down Stone liiver and alon;;' the north .■■hore of Athahasca Lako
to l'\)tt Chippewyan, thence .southward u]) Athahasca. liiver to I''ort
.Mc.Murray, and tlienco eastward up Clearwater Miver and down
Churchill liiverto I'ro;,' I'mtai^e, thus t liivellini,' round the area treated
of in this report. No report of this expedition was ]irepare(l or puh-
lislied, hut Mr. ( 'oclirane s note hi.oks were of consideiahle service as
1861.
*.\r(-tic Siiiix'liiiit,' Kxiii.litMiii liy .Sir .lolin Kiiliiuilsdii, vol. 1., |i|i. H'iHrJ, Lipiiiimi,
a >,'uide (I
Coclirime
Of tll3Lr
line of tia'
was delinit
In carrv
I'hielly in I
with prisii
when poss
Were meas
and lieinil
were estiin
taken alino
of t he jmir
Survey for
The tota
iiiined hv n
liad heen c
I oronto, ai
In l■ei,^■ll•
nienl oiied
K. i>. Allan
iSui'vey,
'i'lie prese
miles, hoiini
on (he wes
liy Atlialia>
Hatchet !.,a
east hy the
iU'rv Uiver.
e.ist lon^it 111
lietvveen
cxiuninfid, oi
Ilo f'l la (Jr(
by Montreal
Nortli of
main stream
'IIYSICAt. lil'.Oiai APIIY.
7 l>
11 >,'iii(l(' diiriii!,' tlio iiscciit (if Stiiiic liivcr, iiixl tlio iippiT |iiiitioii of
(Jnclii'imc IJivcr is laiil down on the imii|i tVinii liis sufNcy.
< It' tli;' j.'('u^ia|)liy ot' tlu' iiilciioi' n( tlic louiiiry williiii .Mr. ( 'iiilirjim''H
linn of liiiv.i, I'liiiii'jicin;,' an iiica of ahoiit (iO.UOO .siniarc miles, notliini;
was (Iclinitcly known hi'toic llif iiic^cnl cxplor.il ion was iiM<lcTlakfn,
In farryin;,' out. the surveys lieie n'|iiirteil on, tlie piiiy liavelliil M(»|,.Mi.f
cliielly in I'cleihoidULrli eanoes. 'i'iu' healings iImouljIiouI wcreliiUen '''"^'■■^'
with |ii'isnialie or liy sol.ir eonipass, oitservalioiis liein;; made duly,
wiien possihle, for vaiialion, I'lie dislances on i.ikcs and (|inet water
were mcasiiie:! with a .Massey's lloatinj; i)o.itdoi,', tlio^e on (ho Ston^
and lleindeer I'ivcrs with a IJoehon miemmeter, and the remainder
were estimated liy the ivite of travel. ' iliM'ivat ions foi- latitude W( i(!
taken almost daily with a se.\tant of .s jneh r.idius. A short itinerary
of the journey of IS'Jii is j^iven in tiie Sunn nary l!i port of the* ' i)lo;;ieal
Sur\-ey for that year (pp. I L' a-'Joa.)
The tolid ienuiliof .Xth.iiiasra Lake, surscyed in \S\):\, was deler-
ndned hy means of a jiockel chronometer { {'"rodsiiani, No. IHi'.t? ), which
had lieeii carefully rated iioth at the Meteoroloj,'ical ( )l)ser\ alory in
'roronto, and durin;,' our slay at l'"ort Chippewyan.
In |-ei,'.ird to the niierosco|)i(; deternunat ion of some of the rocks I trt.rMiiii-
menl oned in I he s'lpiel, F doii'e to acknowied^je the assistance of I'rof. ''' "" "'•
I'. !•. Ad.ims of .McCill I'niversity, and .Mr. W. 1'. I'errier of this
Surscw
I'm\sic \i. (I i;oi.i; \\'\\\.
The jiresenl report I'efei's chielly to an .irea of .•dioul (')(), IIOI) sipiaie Ana,
miles, lioundid on the south l>y the Churchill and Cle.irwater rivers ;
lui the west liy the lower port ion of .Vth.iliiisc.i Uiver: on the 'lorth
liy Alhaliasca Laki', Stone l!i\('r, with its expulsions, lilack and
Hatchet l.akis, Wollaston Lake and t'ochrane or ice l!i\er; on the
east liy the lower part of CochiMiie Kixcr, l!eind<'er Lake and Itein-
i\rt'\- l\i\er. It lies lietween north latitudes ."li") i'(J' und •"lU .'i7 , and
eist lohiiitudes 101 ;ind 111 ;'>0'.
Iictwicn the Churchill and S.i'-katchewan risers two lines were
examined, ont." from J^rince Allii'rt northwestward hy (ireen l^ake to
Ilo a la Crosse, and the other fi'om Staidey .Mission south-westward
by Montreal Lake to Prince AUiei't.
North of .the Saskatchewan liasin the country is drained liy two |tl\,.i ,v>ti u
main streams ; the Churchill River, which tlows eastward, and tlually,
I , ';
"'k, W
S II
ATllAHAHrA I.AKK AM) f IIT l»'II I I.I, KIM.II.
riiiiiviiill
Kiv.r.
Rivir.
Hai.i.l M
afltr a ('(nirsc iit' iilioiil I 1(J0 inilt's, (liHclmr^oH its wiitcrs iiiiu ilio
wost Hiil(» nf lludsiin lliiy at old I'ort Priiico of VN'iiIoh ; iiml tln' Atliii-
biiscii-.Miickriizin KiviT, wliicli I'lirrics its wiit(M's inirtliwiiril to tlii«
Arctic < )('riiii. Tlicsc two tlniiimj,'!' sv.stt'iim iiiciNciiliilc in W'oliiiston
Ldkc, \\liicli iliscliiirf^cs liy aiinost <<i|ual Htrcaiiis iiilc Ijotli.
( 'hiii'cliiil |{i\iT, iVoiii il.s iioitlicrii soufc'c at I'ortanc la l.oclic, t'ollow ■
inj,' its \viii(iiii;{s, lias a icii^itli of ISO niilcs to tlii' inuutli of itciiulfcr
iiivcr. It is II long scries of very irrcjiular lakes lilliul willi dear liluc
water, connected l>y Nliort and usually rapid reaches. Tlu" hanks iiro
low and thickly wooded with spruce and |io|ilar. Some of the rapids
are produ<cd hy rocky harriers, whili! others are o\ei' houlders and
between iiaiiks of till, such as underlies iiiucii of the siirroundim,'
country. i'lir a consideriihle part of its coiirsi- it a|)pcais to llow near
the line of coiilact. of the Archicaii and overlying' unaltered rocks,
th(Mii,'i! the tc)po;,'iaphy is uiodilied hy the occurrence of stroii;j jrlacial
features.
The idisencc of a valley, e\ ell where tile channel iiiiuht lie easily
erodeil, ,uid the oceurronc'o of tiic numcidus lakes and rapids, show s
that the river is, Lieolonically >iicakiii^', very new.
'liie larL(est i liluiiaries llowiiii; into ('luiichill Hiver from the south
are llea\er, Sandy and Uapid ii\eis.
I!ea\er Itivi'r ri.ses on the Cretaceous plateau, not f.ir from |,ac la
liiclie, and llowin;; first east ware! for two hiindred and lifty miles, and
then noil hw.'i I'll fur a hiiinircd miles, eiii|ities into (he south end of
lie a la Crosse l^ake. Jls course northward was alone .siiivc\e. I. Ilert!
it is a rapid stream from KMJ to I'UO feet wide, llm\ in;; lieiween low
clay banks lieaiitilully woiideil wit ii sjuuce ,iiid popla-. .Much of the
land aloiiLt its course appeared to he ,\cll adapted for a;-''icull ural pur-
poses, and the rank veifeialion i;ave promise of .iliundant harvests.
Of Hapid or l''orks l!i\cr, .Mr. I low lin;,' writes as follows :
"This liver enters the (."liurchill ,it !'"orks Lake, lielow the lake-
i'.\]iaii-ioii at Stanley Missifin. It is the outlet at Lac La lionise,
a lar;,'e o\ ;il slia]ie(l lake liaNiiiir a leiiuth of nejirly I hirly fnc miles,
situated at a short distance to thi; southwest. This short stream
has a heavy fall or series of rapids near the condiieiice with the
En;;lish River. One of the trilnitaiies eiiterini; the sniitherii end of
Lac l,a l{oii;,'e is the liii; Stone [{ivcr, from a lake of the .same name
a short distance above, and haviii;,' for its chief branch the .Montreal
J{iver, coming from the northern slope of the plateau eidwned by
Montreal '.
thirty mil
several nih
to hear r>i;
posits, but
surface of I
in the \ ii'ii
with spnici
'I'lie prill
the .Miiilial
]Muil|;itii
length, gc
in the botti
obslriicled
jiiirt over li
sian pine ai
purpfiscs.
iiaultaii
about as lar
Foster I!
is allogethc
it plunges d
gneiss until
I Icre it eiiti
densely wm
sweeps muii
iJl.ick l!c,ir
lifiiidecr
sout liw aid f
Its banks ar
rocky hills v
Keiiidctr
•-'-'00 .s.|ii;uc
water is \ei'
dotted with
ing geiierall;
C'orhraiie III
Lake. Jt ti
and then soi
is chai'iuleri
I'lnsK Al. <iKii(iltM-ll^,
D
Mmiriciil .Mniintaiii. Ft druiiiH Mithtrcitl fjikf wliirh Iiii< uii oxfont of
lliiily miles ill l('nj,'tli liy iiliout i'i;,'lil liruiid, iis well uh I>cci' l^iiki' iiiul
Mincial uiIk'I's lit' Ipsnhi' Hix.o tii tlin soiitli-woHt. From Mmit iciil Ijiko
III lii'iir Itiy iSliiiii' f.iiki' till' sliciim rills 11 valley t lil'iillj,'ll Mlliily tlt'-
IMisits, liiit lii'liiw ijiis llicrt' is Mil well ijftiiii'il MtUi-y. 'I'lio jii'iiiTiil
■surt'dii' of tin- iipiHT |);iit is Hiiiidy, sustiiiiiinj(ii yrovvtli ofsniiill piiit', but
ill till' vii'iiiil y lit' liiii; l^ii Uiiii^ti' tlii' |ii'i'\aiiiiii,' I'liiinirtiT is iiiuii' roeky,
with s|iriin' ill till' low itriiund. "
Till' |ii'iiiri|i,il li'iliiitarii's lit' till' Cliiirrliill liixiT t'l'mii tin* iniilli iii'i>
till' .Miiiliatii'k. llMiiJiaiii, l''usti'r and lli'iiiilri'r iimts.
Miiiljatick liivi'i' is a swit'i, « iiiuiii;,' -.1 icaiii almiil ei^lity mill's in Muiliiiiiu
li'iiiilli, ••I'lii'iajly lliiwiiif,' in a slialluw rlianiicl 1 lii'ciiii,'li a sandy jiliiiii, ''^'''
ill till' ImiIIciiii lit' a widr di'iircssimi lii'twci'ii i'i(l;,'i's iif uniniti'. It is
iilisinicti'd liy ciiiiijianitivcly few iii|iids, and iIii'm- arc t'lir tlio must
jiiirt iivt'i' iidj;f's nt' ImuldiTs. its liaiiks arc lliinly NMindcd with IJaiik-
sian piiii' and spriiri', and tliiTi' is im soil ut' any \aliii' tur aurii'iill iiial
|lUI|i(isi'S.
Ilaullain i!i\t'r was imt I'Xiiiiiiiii'd, hut ul its niuiith it si'i-ms In he Ihnilhiin
aliiiill as lar^'r as Muiljatiik i!i\<'r. "^'''
i''iisti'r lliMT is M'l'y similar in si/.e in llic '('iidjatick llivcr, hut it l''isiii l!ivii'.
is alliii;i'|liir a \\ ilder and nm^dii'i' strfiiiii. itisini; in the l''iisl<'r Lakes
it iiliin^es (Imw n a series ut' heavy rapids ii\er i'iili,'es nt' yianile and
gneiss iiniil it a]i])rnaelii's wiiliin a tew miles nf Chiirehill liiver.
Ilereii enters a rniintry mnie thiekly cnvcred with drit'l, and mure
densely Wnnilel. A 1 landnllilli,' ils direct enlirse sniil li-\>, l'-«t ward, it
sweeps rniind in a lniij,' eiir\e and linally t'liipties into a imii hern arm nt'
itlaek iJear l.ake. one nt' the e\ |iail-inns nt' ( 'hurehill Iiiver.
iieindecr i{i\rr is a wide, ipiiel streaiii seventy miles Iniin, llnwing Kiiniliii-
sniilhward t'l'iMii iieindeer ivike. 1 1 is nhslriieled hy hut t'niir rapids. '>'^''''-
its hanks are yeiieralK- Inw, and the >ireaiii rarely iiiijMiiyes ,i ;aiiist the
rni'ky liill> whieh eiiinpnse i he siirrniliidiiii,' enuntry.
iiiMiideer iiake, t'rnin which iteindeei' llivcr iluws, lias an area nf about ,, ■ ,
' 111 null ij'
■_'1.'(>0 sipiare miles, and an elevalinli ahnve llie sea nf ll-")!) feet. its I..il<i'.
water is \ ery piiri^ and clear. It has a \ery iire;,nilar cnnliair, and is
dntted with inmiiiierahle rncky islands, these and the rncky slmres he-
inif i;i'nerally I liinly cn\ered with as|)arse i,'rii\N th nf small black spruce.
Cnrhrane nr ice l!iver is the larjicst stream llnwinj,' intn Keindeer
Lake. Jt takes its rise in Wnllastiin i,ake, and tlnws at tirst eastward
and then sniithward thrnu^h a thinly wnniled country, niiich nf which
is characluri/ed by irregular sandy anil stniiy hills.
10 I.
AIIIAIIASCA l,AKi; AMI IIII liCIIII.r. .'ilVKH.
\V..ll,(~lnll
Cl'ikic l,'iv<
Walir,-li.'.|.
Stnlll' IvlMT.
('ill' l!i
Allialia^ra
Lalic.
Wolliisldii fjikcs lliiiu,i;li siiiiillci' (liiiii Itciiidccr Liiki", is vci'y
similar Id it in i^cMicfal cliaraclcr. Its incL^iilai' sliorcs aiv I'liielly
rciii|i(is(';l of (liiiiiv wniiilci! fiicliy iiills, wiiilc si'ry many I'nciiy islands
lisc al)iii|itly out. nt' ils clear lilin' water.
<!('il<ic Uixcr is, as tar as kiuiwu, tlif pi'iiii'i]ial tributary of Wollas-
toii Lake. It rises in siinie small lakes near tin? source if i'\)ster
!,i\t'r, anil llows nnrlli eastward thiouiili a thickly drift-co\ ercd
connirv lielween low sparsely wooded hanks. I'Vir loni^ st retclies it i;;
straight and williout eurrcMit, ^iviiii,' it the appearance ot' a wide, (pilot
ri\er or chain ot loiii; narrow li'.kes.
Wollasion Like is the (li\ idint; li^ie hetween the wateis llowiiiLj to
("liurchill l!i\ er and those llowin^,' to (lie .Mackenzie, for it is not only
drained liy the Cochrane KImm', Inil Moiie iiiver llows from its iiorth-
weslcrn ani,'le.
This Litter slreain llows i,'enerallv wi'stA^.ard, at. first lliroiii,'li ^ever.al
Miiiall lakes in a counlrs underlain hy granite and gneiss and then,
in a shallow channel, lliroiii;li a gently slopiiii; country underlain liy
horizontal sandstone. In this portion of ils course it is a swift sl/eam,
oh.si ractcd liv man\' rapMs, in which the w iter rushes o\er Icdi^es or
irregular mas.scs of sandstone. 'Ihe hank are sandy and jioor, su|i-
porlinu liiit a short ifrowtli of small spruce and lianksiaii ]iine. Ti>
the ,o\\er part of ils c airse i; ]i:is-es throiii^h IMacl; Like, hclow which
it tails in a scries of liea\y rapids inio the east eiul of .\thahasca Lake.
Several I liluil iries JDiii ihe .Stone Itiver frum the south, hut onlv
one, theCrei' Uiver was ex.miii ed. This stream is \ery siniil.ir in
character to Stone liiM'r itself, llowiiitj from Cree Lake in a shallow
ehannei, through a lesel sandy count ry. It is ohstruiled hy many
rapids, where the water p.isses over roUi;h hrokeii masses of sandstone.
The siii'roundiiiy country is sandy and \ery harren, support iiii,' hut a
scanty growth of hlack spruce and I'lank laii pint", with \erv little
underhrush.
Athahasea Lake is a loni,' and com]iarati\ely narrow sheet of water,
extendinu westward fr(un the mouth of I'llack Itiver to wlien^ tho
Athahasca-.Mackenzie l!i\-er drains thi^ country towards the north.
It lies in tiie hottoni of a L;'i'eat valley exc i\ jited alontj the line of
contact of the .Vrclucan liianites, etc., to the north, and the undi.s-
turhcil I'.da'ozoic sandstiuii' to the south. On its south side is a
1,'reat sandy ]ilaiu, rising- at its east end to a heli;ht of TjOO feet above
the lake, and '(ladually slopiiii,' westwaid towards the Athal)asea-
Mack"nzie valley. The country to tlu^ north is comjiosed of rugf,'ed,
i-oeky hills,
tli(! lak(^ th(
south. To
pure, but a
discharu'cd
The (hsi
Churihil
surface chi
etc., and tl
consists of
feet in hei'^
tori zed by -■
eoiitainiiii,'
latter is a
|iorl ions, is
Jjakes are c
surface in -^
is low anil
area, for th
abo\e the s
shed, in till
le\ el. and si
deep valley
preu'liU'ial r
to the irlaci
stream'* no'
seem to tlo'
on iiivot ii;
row ridges
The ciiui
very dillen
Albert, siti
of 1101) fe(
ward to a
the (ireen
feet. l''ro
tir.st with .
the chain i
district di
south of tl
boulder-cli
I'irvsHAf, (;i;oi;ii.\i'iiv.
I i>
rocky liilN, willi ii ni'r'.criil slope in tin' saiiK! (iiicit ion, lull seen t'roin
tll(! lilk(! till! slol^' is not. so |ii'oiioiltir<'(i iis ill the li'\rl (jouiilry lo llu!
soutii. Towiirds tilt' caslciii cimI oI' the iiiki' t he wmIit is clear aiul
pure, lull, ill its western end it is reiidei'ed tmliid i)y the niiiddy water
diseliai'i,'ed into it \>y tlie Athabasca liiver.
'I'iie district at ]iresent- under consideral ion, lyinu' north ot' llio
(Jliin'iiiil lii\('r, may lie dixided into two |iarts lia\in;,' diireicnt
surface cliaracterisi ics tliat un<lerlain liy Ardiican ;,'neisses, liranites,
etc., and that undi'i'lain li\' lini i/mil al I 'al;eci/oic rocks. The former
consists ot' low, rocJ;y liills and i idifes from (ifiy to a hundred and lifty .NuIkimh
feet in iiei^ht, lietueen which .r'e more or les< e.\teiisi\(' ai'eas ehaivu;- '
terlzed liy --and or liy lioidilei' da , , I hi kly u led with vtu lit cd spruce,
coiitainiiii; small irreL;ular lakes of lieautifnl ti'ansp-ireiil watci- ''"' i' ilinzi>ii'
latter is a monotonous sterile plain which, in its litter drained i"'''-
poi'lions, is thinly wooded with r.aiiksian pine, uithout underlirush.
J/ikes arc Ciinspicii mslv ali-,enl, uhili ihe sin.dl streams tlow o\ci' the
surface in shallow channels. 1;; liolh sidxlix isions i he surface contour |,,,u r.iitniir
is low and little ]iroiiounceil, the lower lands around the mari^in of (he
area, for the most part lyiii;; at an clcwitinn of moie than lOl.iOfect
al)o\'e the sea, wliili' llu^ lakes and ]il.iiiis in t,h(^ \icinity <if the water-
.slieil, in the centre of the area, are from 1 oOO to ll^i(lt) fcit alio\e sea-
le\el, and some of the surroiiiidiii:,' hills m.ay lie i-'iO feet liiL;he|' \o
deep \allc\-s ihal iiiiulu have hcen cut liv the present streams or their \,,^.,ii,.v<
|ire:,daeial repi'es(Mi|al i\es were seen. If such \alleys existeil previous
to the Lflacial epoch thev ha\c liccn tilled liy glacial di'-liris, an I tlm
.sti'cams now llou in ^ji dlou chaiitir! -. In places, some of the st reams
seem to lldw in the liotlom of \alleys from liJlf to 200 feet deep, lint
on iii\e>i ii;ation the steep lianks are discoveicd to lie the sides of nar-
row ridijes of "glacial di'lir'is, descrilied on a later pa^c as Ispalinows.
The country Letucen the Saskalcheu.in and the ('huirhill risers is , .|^,,,||,|,,^||_
\erv dilU'ieiit tmm (hat north of the latter stream. I'"i om I'rince i'l'ii'ini-
All lert, situate! I on the lianks of tli( North Saskatchewan, ;it an elevation
of 1 10(1 fe(!t aliove tile sea, the surface ri--es with a nentle sl()| e north-
ward to a heavy s'ony morainic lidire. the liii^hcst |ioint of which, on
tlio (ireen Lidie trail, was found to have an elevation of about '-'^L'O
feet, h'roin this liiij;h ridj,'e the country slopes ^r.idmdly northward, at
lir.st with Ji ^'ciitly lollinir, and afterwards with a more even surface, to
the eliiiin of lakes and extensive swamps that lie alonu tin' edy;e df the
district directly underlain hy Arclia'an rocks. .Most <if the stream.s
.south of thelii;;h morainic^ ridj^o How in deep valleys excavated in the
boulder-cliiy iiiid the underlying; soft ( 'rcta uis rock.s, while to the north
I i'
12 I)
ATIIAIIASCA LAKK AM) (■IIUltCMILL lilVKK
of till' I'idgf^ Green Luke lies in tlie bottom of an old valley which is
not ini|)rol),il)ly of pie^laciai aj,'e. This country lias very iiiuoli iho
.i,'eneral ap])eariince of that portion of north-western Miinitoha to tlie
west of lakes Manitoba and Winiiipegosis, including tlie l)uck and
Riding iiiDuntaiiis. ])reviou.sly describe ! by the writer.*
KlixMiidiis. 'be folio .ving is a list C)f elevations of some of the more important
points, (lelermiiied by aneroids, compared with standaid meieurial
barometevs read at Prince Albert and Cliipi)ewyan : —
Feet.
Siihiuiit, t lii'cii L:iki- 'l'i':iil "Jl'L''!
(iiv.u Liiku IIIIP
ilc ;i lu ('n.ssi. l,:iki' MVM>
Kni'i- l,.,Ki'. ('Iii:ivliill l!i\ci- iLT'd
Civr l,ill<.- l.Vio
r.,..cl< I.akc HMKI
\Vc.ll:i.>tciii l,:ilii' Kllili
l''iist.T l,:i1<c lileo
WlwU lii^ai- \.»k,: Cliun liill liivcv Il'dii
j''niv>t irii!.. The country is g(>iiei-ally forested, though most of the timber is
Miiid! black spruce (I'ir'ii niym) and tamarack (Lorlr Annricifiui).
Hanksian pine [I'itins Jinii/,slaiiii) forms thin park-like woods on the
sandy |ilains. ^^''lite .-.jiruce (ricm hIIki) forms some groves of fair
size in the bottom li.iids near the Churchill Itivcr, but farther nurtli it
is rarely ^eell except rii some particularly favomable localities. One
small iMilated giMVe of white -pruce, was found on a high sandy inland
in llatcliei Lake, standing out conspicuously in the midst of the sur-
rounding forest of smdl black spruce. \\i]>\ixv ( /'d/m/ii.i fri'iiiii/iili/ii<)
and bii'rli ( llilnlti jiiiiij/i'iji ra ) ai'e the oidy rcniaining foi-est trees of
any importance. They are found chielly in the \iciriity nf ('huichili
River', though small scalteied trees were seen on the banks of Stoiin
River.
ISfM-ii.s. Ill |)lal■c^ scime 111' thr mure noi'theni bi'iiics gmw in great ]l^ofu^ioll,
chief amony which arc the cciinmim hucklcbcr'iy ( Vncn iii/im < 'luniiii'ii-
m) and the sniall craidii rry ( Wn'cniiiiin \'ifi.< /i/im ). 'I'lic furiiier'
gr'ows in the deciduous woods along the ( 'hurchill lliver'. whiir i !'•■ latter
cover's the dry slnpi's fi'om the Saskatchewan northwar'd. Tl c blue
hucklcbi'r'ry ( Vdrti mii m nl n/i luisinn ) gvicv^ on the b.mks (if ( 'ree
and Stone river's, but the bushes did not seem any\slicrc i<p liear
much fruit. The raspberry ( Hulms strKjuxitu) gi'ow> on the richer
gr'ound bv some of the slr'canis. 'J he yellow swamp bcr'ry ( Ji'iiluis
c/ntiiiii hKiriis ) is found aliundantiv in the moss of tiie wet spi'uce and
tamiirack
drier land
/laiidjlnriiii
in the sout
The faun
species, but
The nioi
wooded
pi'obablv 11
all wei'c sc'
bou ( lid lllji
the di>ti'i(
gi'oiuid cai
the south I
and l''ostei'
iiut- a \-er'y
shot in .In
( l.ji ii.i' ('((II
more soutl
llCC((li'l(llll (S
(( '((lli.l /ll/Cl
one ha\ ing
SOUI'CI' of i''i
district.*
l!cd, blac
niar'leii ( .1/
risiiii^ and .'
abundance
r..ck'<. Tb.
ncith to S
o\ ci' the wl
met with ii
in the unti
cannciuen
co\-cr'v, an(
winter'. '!
the stream
found e\er''
whei'c abu
'■ l''lUlll<'l
• Aiiim.il Ii. |.nil tJi'.il. Sui\. (':iii., \..l. \'.. ]..iii I''.., IS'.iii'.il.
I'llVSirAL (IKOdliAl'IIV.
i;5 I)
taniiivac'k swiiiiiiis. Tlic crowherry ( Hnqv Innn uiyrKm ) oi'curs on tlie
(lri( r land towanls tti(^ north, iind tln^ I't'nihina licriy ( Viliiirinnn
/laiicijliirinii )<^n>\\H in tliL'iloi'iiluou.s wckhIs ln'sidc tliostioanis, (.•.s|i{'fiiilly
in till' .soullu'in port inn ot' the district.
Tlic fauna of tho district is r(']ir('siMitt'd by a considerables niiiid)C'r of
species, b»t in many cases the iiuiid)ci' of in(li\idual8 is not lar;,'e.
The moose (JAvn Ann'rirn mtn) roams tiirout^h the more thickly Miiniiiiiils.
wooded ]iaiis of \.\\v conntrv as far' north as Stone Hiver, which is
probably near the nurtlieiii lindt of its ranj^e. Seven iii(li\idnals in
all uor(? seen (111 iinj4' the course of the summer'. The woodland caii-
\niu (/I'lnit/i/ir I'lirUiiiii) is said lo occur in the more soutlu'rn portion of
the district, ncai' Churchill Itixcr, but none were seen. The barren
,t;r'oiind caribou (/iimi/ijir (I'r" ii/dtiilii'ns) comes south in winter to
the south end of Iteindeer Lake and t he u]>per portion of Mudjatick
and {''osier rixers. It tra\els north in spring to the liarreii (irounds,
l)Ut a very few aidmals are occasionally left behind, one liavinu' been
shot in .(uly near thi' iu)i'th endoM'ree Lake. The Canada lynx
{/.i/ii.r f'(iiiii(/fiisis) is iModerately abundant in some seasons in tlu;
more southern part of the district. The .uray wolf (''(////.v liijnix
iiiu-iili'iiiiilix) roams over the country, but is n'lt jiletitiful. The covoti-
(Cinii.i /iifnnis) is found occasionally as far north as the height of land,
one lia\ inif bren sliut by llie writer on one of the small lakes iiear tlie
source of l'"oster liivcr. It is. howcvc'. certainly not connnon in the
district.*
Itcd, blai'k and cross fo.\es( I'lil/ns m/c/nris), wohcrene (fin/ii /iiycus),
marten [Mush la Ann /■'iiniii), weasel yj'ii/nrlits rii/(/iiris), ndnk ( /'.
nsiiii) and skilidc (.W'/>/n//s nir/i/iifird) are all found in greater or less
abiuidance in the rolliiii; unodcd country underlain by .Vicha'an
rocks. The ottei- ( /-"'/''( CdiKi'/nisls) wtis found on all the streams
ni till lo Stone l!i\er. The black bear (i'rsiis Aiii' r'n'n mis) roams
oNcrllie whole country. \ few beavei ' (Cuslnr liliir) may slill be
met wiili in many of the streams. A considerable colony was found
in the unl ravelled country near the source of (ieikie l\i\-er, but <iur
canoenu'ii brouyhl liack word of this (tolhe I ndians) important dis-
co\cry, ami doubtless the beaver were killed durinu' the following
winter. The iniiskrat (Filnr •.ilir//ii,iis) was seen swimnnng in all
the streams. The rabbit or ^Vinerican liaro (Lcjnis Aiiifiriciinii.i) is
found every ivhere in the densei' woods, but it did not .seem to bo any-
where abundant. The porcupine (/■'nf/ii-.i)// (/nrsn/ns) was iilentiful
l''iullii'i- wi'st, it tiiiclsits iidrtlii'iii limit ul .Atliiiimscu [..uiiliiig. (i. .M. I).
1 1 i>
ATirAIIASCA LAKK AND (III liCIl 11,1, lilVKIi.
1111)1111(1 V'Wv \jAni, iiiiil ill lli()s(> poi'lions of i\w sjiiidy country tliiit
hiul not rct'fMitly licen liunlcd o\(!r by Indians. 'I'Ik? red s(|uirr('l
{iSi'iiirii.i //iidsdiiliis) iind i\w. nortliorn clii]iiiiuiilc {'/'nininn Axin/lrus)
wor(^ found ((vcrywlicn^ in the wooded country. Doiiht less iiiiiny otiiei'
of tlic smaller species of iniiiiinials (jccur, liut tliey wvvf not oKserved.
Vi'niU. Tlie t.iiiie ut our (lis))osid did not. jierinit. us to iiiak(! ii close exaiiiinii-
tion of tiie birds seen, but j,'(!ii()rally speakinj,', exiiept dloiif,' tin; biiiilis
of ("liurcliill liiver, wIkm'c duck.'* breed in ;j;reat nuinbors, birds are not
at all numerous in the district explored. AVitii the excei>tion of oiu!
or two -pccies of iner;;;anser, but few ducks were seen, as t.lier(^ is \u:y
little food for them in the clear lakes ,iiid ri\-ers. 'I'Ik- yreat northern
and red throated divers were nioderately abundant on the lakes. No
swans and \'ery lew j{e(!sc of any species were seen. Coveys of rul'e;!
f;roll^e and spruct! parlridj,'e were found in the thick r woods cM-ry
where. A few snowy owls and b;dd headed eai,'les wen; observed, and
!i larjj;e Liolden cai;le \va- shot beside its nest on a rock}' clifl' overlook-
in<^ Stone liiver.
I'i>li. Fish seem to be (>veryw here abundant in the lakes and streams, but
tile number of species is nciv limited. The lake Iroiit (('rls/iroiinr
iKiiKi'i/rtis/i) is, how(>\er, the lar;;cst of (he liniiv trib(>s. One was
c;iUL.'hl near the mouth of Stone Kiver wei^hiiii; twenty live [Miuiids.
The wliit(^ ti^li (('iirfijiiiiit.i rhi/n'ij'itniils) is found cNcry where tlirouyh-
out the district, but more especially ui the shallower lakes. The blue
li.sli or l'a(!k's yrayliiii,' ( '''/(////"'///'.■.■ .v/V/;m'/c/-) was ciujiiit in Stone lUver
at the foot of the heavy falls below liliick Lake. I'ike (A'.vii.c /ik'Iiis),
pickerel ( Si'i-.iiKl'lhiiiiii rifr'iiin), methy i^Liiln luriistris) and two or
more speci(>s of suckers {C"f<"'/'iiiiiis trvns and My.ioslnnut tii(icrii/f:j>i-
(hild) were t'ound in almo.s' .all the water stretches.
N:iii\'-. The number of Indi.ins who IInc in ,iiid travel tiiroiiL:li the "'Uintiv,
obtainini,' a precarious existence by huntini; and lishiiif,', is very small.
They are centred around four tr;i,lin;; posts, namely, Methy l'ortaj,'(S
He a la Crosse, Hapid liiver nv Si.inley, .-ind the south end of iiein-
deer iiake. Those lli.it trade at the la^t two jiosts are cliiclly Crees or
Nahathaways, while those at the two former |iosts ar(! mostly Cliippe
wyans. ,\ few Chippcwyans also come south-west into the countrv
from Du l!'<ichcl I'o-t, at the north end of Keindecr Lake. 'I'he total
nu!nb(M- liuntinLC in the (list rid is jirobably not more than three or
four hundred in all, or about one person to (!very IfiU s(piare miles.
The rock
and descril
follows ;
Present 1
Sand phi
Ancient sIk
Till, drui
.Viiilirarii
Alhilhll^Ci
sandv shale
White i]
ihinlv foj'al
I jornblei
ifabln'os, of I
The nam
altered, cm
inj; in thi^
ttranites, ai
nzu, I
cKNKH.M, (;r,()i,oiiv.
l.j I)
(!ENi:i!Ar. (iKOLOCY.
'I'lic rucks cxiiiniiiccl in (lie (listri(!t c .vct'O'l liy tin' present re|i(H't,
aiifl (le.sci'ibfMl in detiiil in its hitcr jiorlion, iniiy lie" t,iil)iil.ite(l as
follows ; —
1{|;<'i:nt.
I'i'osent laki^ lieiiclies, anil ll(i()(l-)i!ains ot the jiresent streams.
IM.KlSlilCIAK.
Sand ]>lains near the heiu'ht of land, alon'.; Mndjatiek !!i\er, kc
Ancient shore-lines around I ly|iei'-('ree, Lake, 1 1 ypcr-Iilack Lake, iVc.
Till, drundins, nioraincrs, Uanies, eskers, isiiatinows.
liAriflATIAN.
Tiio name Liuirentian is applied in tlie aiijireiiatc to the crystalline, llascinint
alter('(l, crushed and contoiteil rocks of the liaseniiMit complex, loiisisl- """I""'-
inj,' in this I'CLjion of hornlilende-;;r;inites, hiotite granite niuscosilu-
ifranites, and itraniloid ijncisses of the same coinjiosition, with t(al)l)i'os
(•iii;r.\<i:ors.
/'Irrrr i)ark ,i;ray shales.
.yiiiliriini/lrii/o)!. — C/'alcar(!()Us shales.
Diikiitii. Sanijstones, mostly incoherent.
CAMHlil.W.
A'l.iilidscd SiiiKlsttiif ( /\r, /rriiii/nni ). -Ited santlstoncs and niottk'd
sandy ^liales, in more cir less hori/or.tal position.
IIIIIOMAN.
White (|uart/it,cs, line red <',alcarcoiis sandstones, hilllellintas and
thinly forated L;rccn schists, seen on t!:e north shore of L ike .Xthahasca.
l.AIIIICMIAN.
llornlilcn<ie- and mica uraiiites and u'rainloid L;neisses. in -rites anil
i;al)liros, often shouinj; signs of severe crushing,' and contortion.
ll
ii; i>
ATIIAHASCA l.AKK A\l> CllUliCII II,I, KlVi;i{.
Kxt.'lltof
iiixli'i'liiiii
urea
(Jiililmi
Niiril.
Jiiid iKiritcs. 'riicsc iirciill wcldcil cliiscly tinjcllicr, iind, iiltliur.^ili smr.e
ace olciirly iiitiMisivc in (lie others, and tlicret'orc youiiiitM', tlicy iire
m>i'(!ssiii'ily I'l.isscd in oni> ;,'rfiit ;.'r()\ip in di'faidt of cn idenco I'i'ndcrinjj
it jios,sil)lo to ai t'!iii;,'o llicin in any definite time seiics, in tliis reyiun.
Tliese roek.'i are found outero)i|iini; on ('liiirelull l!iver. t'ldjn two
miles helow tlie mouth ot' M udiatiek liiver eastward to the mouth of
l{eintleor I'iver, l)e\-otul which tlie river was not examined. Thence
northwaid thev oeeuiiv the whole, or almost the whole of theeiisterii
part of the distrii't, whili' further west lliey extend northward to Cieo
r,ake, wlie!'e tiiey disa]i]iear undrr the o\erl\ iiij; Athahasea sandstones.
North of tlie sandstone area they oeeupy most of the nortiu'ra
shores of Athahasea and Hlaek lakes, 'riirou^hout the i,'reater portion
of the .irea, tht; roek consists of li;;ht reddish ,L;ray liorid)lendc-t;ranite,
and liiol iteL;r;inite or granitoid gneiss, worn iulo low rounded jiills and
ridges. The ijMeiss does not appe.'ir to ha\e any very p^'lsislent strike.
In thin sci'tions uiuier the luirrnseope, mifh of tin" i;neiss exhihils
catarlast ic sti'ucture. sliouinu it to haxc licen suliiceled to severo
str.ain and crushinic. Some aicas wen- found to lie underlain liy a
white musc( ite itraiiilc. This is typically de\eloped e.ist of H.itchet
liiike ai\d in some island- in W Ollaslmi Lake, and is (liiid)llcss int riuled
through the siirrouiidini,' horidjlende -ijranite uneiss. i »n .Mudjatiek
l!i\{'r the roik is for tin- most part a similar wiiilish uiaidlc. which,
however, is often fouiul to lie more or less <listiiictly t'oliatcd.
On the iii>rtli shore of .Vthahasca Lake, west of ImukI du i/u-, is an
area of uieilium grained reddish j^'ahhro, in places crushed and show-
iiii; a distinct foliaticui, hut how it is rcl.ited to the surrounding;
gni'isses was not determintd. (Mi the sjunc sluuc, twenty miles east
of Foiul (hi l.iac, a ranu'c of dark-^ray, rocky hills rises to a heii.'ht of
se\eral hundred feet ahovc the water, and continues eastward for lifty
miles, to the iKJrtli-west sluu'c of lUack i.,ake. The rock, which doubt-
less r<'jiresents an intrusive mass, eoiisists es.sentiallv of .a jileochrcjie,
ort horhomhic pyicixcne, prohalih' hvpi'isihi'ne (often altered to hiown
hornhlende). pla^'ioclase, some (piarl/and ihneiMte. It may therefore be
classed as a norit;'. In sonu' jilaces it, is liea\ily jointed and almost
massi\-e, while in other places it shows a well marked ;;neissi,' structure.
Xcai' lh(> shore it is occasionally seen in contact wit li reddish .'ray hiotite-
i,'neiss, and near the; line of conta'l ^'arneis have heen develojied in
the norite in ureat abunilance. They are also found, thouj^h not
<|uite so abundantly, in the biotite-j,'neiss.
As far as
district sole
biwca. Till
of I Mack \U\
sists of a
can often b
strikes in ;i
lar;;e /\ shii|
with the iul
often associ.i
hill, this rii
alon;,' the si i
\e;ir the 1
oiuan is reprc
schists, assoc
rounded pebl
west, on the
hullellinta, in
were also see
mouth of ("yi
I'lCt ween t V
wyan, llie si
calcari'ous ipi;
with nearly v
of {..aurelitiaii
line-;,'rained, i
This is an (
eoimloinerale.-
and iiiieissis.
at two places
in th(! Cam I
stone."*
* Hi'|ii>rt 1111 :
l!c|iell (icel. Sll
(iKNKKAL (JKOt.OUY.
llntuM.W.
As t'.'U' lis is ;it prcst'iit known, tlio lliii'onian is t('|in'scnl('(l in tliis
(listi'ict soli'ly by tlu'oo small ureas on the mn'tii sIkhi' <it' Lake Ailia-
liiisoii. Tlic most iin|ini'timt of tlicso is jusi cast ot' tiic Ion;; jioini cast
of iiiaok I'ay, finil extends t'oi' sixteen miles along I he slioii'. h con-
sists ot' a iiai-d, white, (.■nisjieii (iiiai't/.ite, in which hca\y licdilini;-
can often he detected. It lies on tlu? i;neiss in a wide synciinc and
sti'ikcs in a more or l(>ss norliieriy direction, a|i|)arcntly co\(iini;a
1 irire /\ shaped area. < )n its (M>tcrn lionier, ncartiic line of contact
with the ailjoinini; uneiss, is an exleusivt! duvolopiuent of ha'matitc,
often a-suciatcd with a coarse (|iiart/ite hreceia. From the top of i
liill, this rid^'c of h:cmalitc uas seen to extend a long distance iidand
alcin'4 tlie si rike of I lie ipiart/itc.
Near liic nor'tli-wcsl anijle of lllack Uay. on Slate inland, the Ilnr
oiiian is icprescnteii hy darkd)rown thiidy foliale(l ferruginous chlorite
schists, as-oi-iated with a liand of coarse i,'reen con;;lomerate, witji well
roimded ]icl)lilcs and a scanty chloritic matrix ; and luo miles fnrther
West, on the main shore, is an exposure of thickly foliated lii,dit<{reeii
litlllclliiita, inter'aminated with hands of jiriidie. Simil.iri,'reen schists
were also seen on the shore fur several miles t > the .soutli-we.st of the
iuouth of ( 'ypress l!i\ er.
iietwecn lucnly tl- a:.d ihirly miles north-cast of ''orl ('hi]i|ic
wyan, the shore is hordered for several miles liy ^reen and red
calcaii'ous (|U,irtzos{; schists, strikiui,' [lar.illel t<i the cdi^e of the lake^
with nearly xci'tical dips. 'I'hey lie at the fool of a rathei' hii^h ridu'e
of Laiu'cntian ;,'nciss, and towards the south tlic\' seem to pass into a
tinc-gr.uncd. highly altered, red c.alc.ireous sandstone.
('AMniMAV.
Alliill'Kirii Sii ii'lsliiiii'.
Arrii unil
liiiii l.y
iiu.nt/.itr.
!••
■iriifiliiiiiis
■-r
lists ;lt
SI
Itf lsl;iM'!
C.iUai
st'llists
\ li
'Phis is an extensive .series of i^eneially horizontal rod sandstc.ips and
conulonnMates. restinij on the uneven surface of the Arcliaan granites
and niieisscs. The sandstone was ]ire\ iously seen hy .Mr. Mc('onnell
.It two places (ui the south sidi- of Lake .Vthahasea, and placed 1)V hin
in tlie Camhrian, with the local desiy;nation of •' Athaliasca Sand-
stone."*
' l;i|iiiit uii M |KiriiiiM ut III.' Iiisiiict cif Atlmliiisca, liy l{. (}. McComiell, Ainuia
It. ■pull Cc'.il. .Sm\. (':iii., v.il. \'. (N..S,|, ISiMllll. |.. M n.'
IS I.
AI'IIAIIAiSCA I.AKI', AM) rilC KCIII 1.1- KIVKll,
Iliiri/iiiil:!
1 11 1 Sli'2, no fiii'llu^r iiifiirKiatioii rosjicctini,' tlic iii,'(( of tlicsc sandstoiios
\Mis olitaiiM'd Ity the wiitci', lull in llic I'ollowini; yi'.ir, while cxiilorini;
till' ciiiint I'v noitliwanl towiirds < 'licstcilii'ld I nlcl, siniil.ir siindsloncs
wi'ir found oNcilyini; lln' Arcli.i'Mn, iissociiiUMl with (|iiiii't/ |)or]ihyii(!H,
dialiasi's, iVc , like t hose of ihf Ki'cwcnawan rocks of Lake Sii|n'iior.
The likrncss is so jjioiioiinccd I hroiii,dionl, lh;il tliiTf would sci'in to In-
litlin diuilil ihal ihi" two sets of locks hclon;,' to LIk! same i,'t)olo^'ii;al
)iori/<in.
The foiinatioii is e\crvwliere much llie same in tliis districl., coiisist-
•llvof
a reddish, moderalel v coars(
At
of I.
-ome iiiaces near I he hase o
Ih
)f til
'aiiied i|uart/ose sandstone,
:'s, es|icciallv on llu^ north shore
Alhaliasea, I he rock hei'oliies a coarse eonyloinerate, with well-
rounded ]ieipl)les of while cl.isl ic (|uart/ite like that, of the ne:i,ddiouriiii,'
1 1 uiDuian rocks. I n ot her places, as on Wapala Lake, it is a linc.
jL,'raiiicd, thin lieddcd red shaly sandstone, mottled willi rcainded spots
of a ui'i'i'iiisii I'rav colour.
|li;ilill-(Mlvl<.
It is almost (everywhere lus'irly horizontal, tlie excoptions to tin's
rule liein'' .sli'dit and li
it was nut fouiiil to 1(0 cut by eruptive
ro<-ks exi('|)t at one point (Ui the west shore of Cree Lake, where a dyke
of coarse, lii;lil-L;rcen uralilic dialiase has cut throuiili it, and altered
le sandstone on hotli sides to a
iiard
luart/ile.
Vrca iiiiilii ■■ The lolal area underlain \>y this sandstone formation is very lari,'e,
extendini,' from ("ree Lake on tlie south to Alliahasca Lake on the
lain liv siiMil
.stime.
lortli, anil troiii \\ ollasloii
W'l
Lak
(! on the east, dou
l)t less to llio vicinil v
of the \alley cpf .\thal)asca I!i\er on tin? west, and perhaps much fur-
ther under the coNcriiiL; of later rocks, ("ree Lake lies lar"(>lv within
tl
le area underlain
l.y tl
ir,-r rocKS, and
Athal.i
T.ak
e seems
to li
entirclv wii Inn it, for the r<
dslones q()m]iose many of the islands
and more prominent points of its northern shore.
'l'lii(kiio<s nf On account of the ijenerally horizontal position of the heds, and tlicir
■"*""'• similarity in character throui,diout, it wa.s impossihlo to determine its
greatest or total thickness, hut near the east end of Lake Athahasca
elUFs of sandstonie rise on the south shore to the heii;ht of hetween 400
and riOD feet, !,M\in!,' a M>rli<'al seetiitn of o\er 100 feet at this point,
l'<ast of tlie basin of Athabasca Uiver, in the region explored, no
rocks of later aj;o than the Athabasca .'sandsttme were seen north of the
Churchill. If any such were ileposited they have long since been
denuded away. That at some uncjertain period previous to the; Glacial
epoili the country stood at a much higher Unci, or sloped much more
Itocks iii'V
lli.iii,( 'am
lii'i.iii.
m-
{^} f^f
f. r
Ntt'l'|ily we.'
till' ^'ITiit \
<'l<Kll'(i Wlli
it'id ill tlio
Tcitiary |ii
(lcjiiisii|.|| ,,
presoiit villi
On Clni,
•Mli<lj;itick
iiui f tJK
lll.it j'ultro:
limrMdiii's,
iiiiu'lit III' fii
As cviclciici'
lilllcstdiir, cj
a 111 Ci'ds-c
IfivtT, a Ijii
Iii'aii'il l(, |)|.
hanks i,( |!i
Oii-iiii. I'.iii
('aiiil)ri)-Silii
null li, aloiii;
on fit- ,1 la
fossils as .1/
'■"ill, rtc, am
111 t lie null
seen i)iiitr()|.|
Fire-I.,..^ I!iv.
South lit' til
liiiii In- Cretai:
to tlio Pieite
On tli(> soiit
He u lii Crosse
ligiit-yelli.w sa
careoiis irons
Tiioiif,'li no i-c
believed that t
■of the Dakota
TVRIIEll..
liKNKKAI. <;Kii|,u(iV.
lit I,
slt'i'|)ly wi'stwaid, tlinn it, iIcm's at |in'scnt, is sIkpwii liy tin- cxisliMice of'
lli(';,'rcat Millry iiccupifil liy Atliiiliasua Lake. I'ossiliiy this valley wan ol.l ^,11, y.
<'i()(liMl wliilc tlit^ ( 'rctai'coiis saiKlstKiics and HJialis wcif hriiii,' <li'|ius-
iliid ill till! Mi'as then Htit'li'liiiii; away U> tlie smilli, nv at'tt-rwartls in the
Tortiiiry periDil, <liiiiiii,' pari of wliiili days and sunds woe lioiiii;
di'posid'd on llii! lioiloin of' a nulf then occupyini; tin- po>ition of' ihc
jin'x'lil. valley of llie lower readies of Maekeii/ie l!i\er.
On Cliui'diili l!i\er, lietweeii lie a la ('rosse and llie nioiitli of' ( 'niaiiiy
Miidjatick l!i\er, ilie eounlry is lliiekly eo\cied wiili drift, ho that''
noi f I lie undtirlyin^' roeks were seen, hut it is liiijlily probalile
tliat I'alieo/oie and prohilily ( ' imliro Sdurian, Silurian or Devonian
liuiesloiies, or all three, similar to those of' the W'iiinipe;; basin,
inij;llt Ip" found lienealh the drift, o\erlyiiii,' the Ardinan gneisses.
As evidence of' the presniee of these roeks, l)ouldeis of I'aheo/oie
limestone, carried with the drift from the north, were f'luind on lie ., ,, ,
a la Cros-e l,ake and southward. At (iraiid Kapids, on jicavcr r;il,i''Ziiic
Miver, a limestone lidiikler was seen, lioldin;,' fos-ils, one of which ap
jicareil to lie a Ti'iirlioiii'niii oi the type of 7'. nniliil ifntiUK. ( >n tlu^
liaiiks of I'ii; ISiver anotlier houlder was found holdiiiii h'' (■r/i/nrii/i/r.'i
Oirciii. i'liilh these liouldeis were e\idcntly deriveil from rocks of
( 'ainliro Sihiri.iii ai,'e, and iiidii'ate the pieM'iiee of such rocks to the
north, aloni; the southern ed^'e of the .Vrdiiian, Some of the liouldei's
on lie a la Crosse Lake are of doloiiiiiic limestone, coiit;iinini; such
fossils as A/ri//iii ri/irn/iiris, /■'iiiis/i//ii ri /vf C.';, a lat'j;o Stroiiiatopo-
roid, etc., and were, douhtless, (leri\ed from Devonian rocks.
llllli-'tiiMl'.
la tl
rth-wt'st porti
.f tl
le distil
•t, I)c
evonian limestone was
seen outcroppim; for several miles in tht
liott
Olll (I
f tl
10 \alle'
if
Fire!)
>:\>' l!i\ er, one of t \n'.
-^mall trilaitaries of .Vthal
)asca l»i\'ei
Cni:r.\ii;ors.
South of tliu Churdiill Miver, tlio I'ouniry is almost entirely under-
lain by Cretaceous rucks, iiingiiig in age from the Dakota sandstone up
to the Pierre shales.
( )n the .south shore of lie a la Crosse Lake, a few miles west of .s;:,ii(l-tniir on
Ilea la Cro-se jiost, there is a low outcrop of soft, liori/oiilally bedded, ''■ ■' '■i *'i">sc
light yellow sandstone, associated with thin beds and nodules of cal.
caretms ironstone. It contains many caiboni/.ed pl.iiit remains.
Though no recognisable fossils were here found, it is eontideiitly
believed that these beds belong to a lioii/.on not far from the bottom
of the Dakota .sandstone.
20 I)
\ I II MIAMI \ i.Mvi: ASH I iiriiciiii.i. iiivku.
TVHIUll,
1
l>,ik(<l<i
Niulirnni
hIiiiIm,
< tii |l('ii\cr I{i\rr, jiixl iihuvc tlii' inmitli iit' IViii' llivcr, i>i'<> soinii
liiinks niiii'ty fcrt lii;^li n\i Mit'l innihi'ifiil wliitr nr linbt-vi'llnw ~iiiiil-
stniii', \ I'ly siiiiiliir ill cliainctcr to iiiiiili ut' I lie I )iil<()tii miikIsIoiic of
iiiii'lli \M>s<t-rii Maiiitiiliii, iiiid |iriil)uMy itlsii of hiikotii iiu'i'. In lliu
\,ill('yof I'irc li;ii; I'Imt, four fi'i'i of 'iiir Hiiiulstoiics' ( |)iikotii.') wcro
seen ovcllyilli,' till* I li'Voliiilli lillicstolir,
< <ii r.'';k\<'r IiImt, ho ( "iftiKi'oiis roi'Us wci'i' ici'o','iiiT(l iiImim' tlio
liol'i/oii iif till' l»al<ot,i, lull Ml till' ( liMiiil liiipiilsa liiiiildcr of ( 'irtiu'c-
olis liiiii'stoiic WM-. follli(l lioldilii: fi ai.'iiU'ii(s (pf ,1 (')//""" lil<'' -lirll,
licl'lmp- (li'iivi'd from soiiii' of tlic lourr lirds of the Niolii-iiiii in tlii>
vii'illity, or a slmit dislaiu'i' farllii'i' iioitli.
Ni'ar t III' >iiui li iiid ol' ( lii'i'ii l< ikc, ly|iii'al Nioliraia sliali', lontaiiiin^
liu';,'!' miinlifis ipf {''oiaiiiiiiift'ia, frannicnls of slnlN oi' liiiu'craiiiiis, Ipoiu's
of lislic^, ,v ■ , w IS ^I'l'ii near tlic cduc of tlin wati'r, luiviiiu' sliildi'ii out
f loll I till' font I if till' lii-ii lianW. 'I'lic irniu'iiit ion of N juliiaia loi'ks on
< ilrrll Laki' lailirs t III' know jciiur of t lie oi'ciirrciicc of I Ills liol i/o|i I.'"')
mill's nortli SM'stwani fioiii llic lu'airst |ioiiit at wliiili it had pre-
vimislv liiiii fpiiiid, ni'ar tin' iioitli wrst coini'i' of ilii' |iro\iiirr of
Maiiitolia, and iic than half way fnan that |ioinl t.i tln' Alhahasca
Uivi'r. l'"roiii (ii'ct'ii Lakr Mill til ward to tlir f>a>i\iit(ln'\van IliM'i', the
I'ouiitrv appears to lie I'litiri'lv iindi'ilain hy i'ii'rri' sliaii's, tlioii;;li \('iy
fl'W (WpoSlll'fS WI'll' SCl'll.
Afli'l' till' rliisi' of till' ( 'ri'taii'olis prriml, a lillir of roni illi'lltal
i'li'\alioM iniisi ha\r si't in. and apprars to lia\i' coniiniird tliioin,'liiiiit
till' 'I'l'itiary and down to tin' pl•l'■^^nl tiiiii'.
lii.xt irrpiit •fli
|iortion of
Atlialiasca.
di'ti'itcd.
'I'lir fill iiw
map :
.Ma.l!
Ii'ivir
<'lrr I,;,
Chill, I,
W I,
ItllU'k It
AtllllllllMI
(ililiilltr
suil'aci's.
Ki'Watili
• ililcilT.
1'i.i;isio<'i.m;.
W'hrii'v cr till' surface of llir iiiidi'ily iiiLr rock is seen, it has iieeii
sexcrelv iilaeiatcd, and any rocky piuininenies are roiiiided on the side
lookiiii; towards llie direction from which the j,daeii'r llowcd. and ioii'.;li
and liidl;eii on the opposite side. The surfaces arc not -mootli and
polishcil as they are in many jilaces further si)ii;|i, for the (ill that had
been dr,ii,'u'ed oxer them hy the glacier contained \eiy little clay or
other tine polishim; materi.d, hut was rather eomposed of sand or loek-
tl'iur. Coarse grooves and striie were often seen, though they ;iie nut,
everywhere present. 'I'heir direction is siiowii hy t lie arrows on the
aeeompanyinj,' map. The most of them ijeloni^ to one period of ;;laci-
atioii, and were iiiiido by the south-western extension of the •,'reat glacier
centrin<{ west of liie nortiuTii part of Hudson JJiiy, and for which 1
have proposed the iiami; Keewatin i,dacier. They indicate that tlii-^
I'.lacU l,;il.
1
I'l.KlsHMKNi;,
:;i I.
lust irrciit j{liifiiM' lliiwcd lictwcrn S;S.\\'. and S.W. iici(i>s tin) ;,'ii'iit('i'
poftioM (if till- iirni, Ih'Iii;,' divi'i'lrd westward in iln« v.dlt'V ot' Lakf
At liidiasi'ii. No •{I'litMal ^liiciatioti, iliHtiiicl froin ilic aliuM'. rcmld In'
(ll'llTlcil.
Tile till uwiiiL' is a list <it' tlic ''laciil sdin' (•i)s('i\c'd in (In' iiri'a ut' tlin '•'■i''i''l
ip;
I'laci'. 'I'liii' I'll Mfiiij,'.
MiMliiilicK li'iviT. Mi'iiv iiiiiiitli . S. 17 W.
Int. ."1(1 l.s'. .S, •.'•.' \V.
" l.cln« <;i;lM.I li:l|.llU S. .V.' W.
l'(.iU» .... S. •_••.' W.
iiliiivc ('nrkH S. 17 W.
liiMitl.iwiiin N. loCiiM' r.i.Ur S. L'Tt7 NV.
('ill' liiikr, (Mini, at S. .11.1 .s. ;i7 \V.
Hiicdl Maiiil. S. L'7 W.
" wiiidwt.iiicciitr 111 s. \v. -i(ic s. ;t7 w.
:it II.. nil .11.1 S. 17 W.
r.hiilv I.mK. . wibl -Ilu.., s.iiilli 111 SI..I1.. I!i\(.|. ,S. 7l' w.
\V.....|,...,I< r,.itiii;.. N. 7:1 \V.
H..HI (iiil ,s. 71 \\ .
r.i.iik uiv.c N. .'ls w.
N. i;:( \v.
I1..I..H |..Ui-t |«nl;i.rf(; S. 77 W.
N. .'<M W.
,s. (i;t \v.
.Vtliiiliii,-.':! I.iiKi' ifr.iiii (..■isi i.i \M-.<t) S. .Vi W.
ciirli. I- i.tiiii... . S. 71 W.
N .s7 \V.
(.lllil..|' Htl I.C
N. 7" \V.
S. -Jd W.
S. Cil w.
,s. .-ii \v.
s. ."i:! w.
s. rc' w.
.liitti' siiiic. . s. :ti w.
!<. I\\ \V.
S. 11 \v.
s. .■.,«< w.
I' I.iu 1.
.S. 71 \V.
S. Til W.
\. ,SL' W".
(•a^l iif l'.,.:i\.i' IliMC S. lid W.
west .if Mcuv.!' Itivci' ... S. IL' W.
iiciii' Itf.l tlill S. 4.") \V.
S. K. ..f llli.i'k lin.v .S. 7.-1 \V.
11. ar < '> in'i'ss l!ivi.r S. 50 \\'
l,at. .Vl I'l M'
W.
r.ia.u 1.
Stall. liii),' Sail. I l'..iiit S. (l."i W.
X. 7."i W.
N. 7ti W,
S. l.s W.
. . .lat.-i .■.tiiii' s. i;s w.
Kiirf ('lii|i|H wvi
.1st. .Ill- Islaii.l ....
Sail
|i<iiiit (if ^laiiiti
i)
•
22 iJ ATllAll.iSCA r.AKK AND (11 UHCIlll.L iUVKli. 1
I'l.l.v.
Pnir Hearing',.
I'.Im.K Lake, l-.l;niil
S. .■i(i W.
S, 71 \V.
S, ,-iS W,
S. 7(1 W,
" lioillf (III IMU'tll slinlT
Ilillclnt liivil-, lil\M^t linllaur
S, S7 W.
" aM-i-iiiliii^' till- ■.Iccaiii
S, 711 W,
S, 71! W,
tt ti
S. lil w.
S, 7S W.
....''. "^^yy.....
" I'fi |Mii.iiriiliir lliick
.s;, ,-,1 w.
S, II w.
s, 'J;! \v.
Ilalilnt l,akr
s. :.m; w.
S. 11 w.
Wiilla.-tiiii LaUr, (I'liilii liiiitli tu mmiIIi'
tt tt
S. 11 w.
tt It
S. -J'.i \v.
tt ft
tt It
S. ,t| w.
s. x\ \\.
s. -j: w .
( ii'iki. It'i\i'r. 1 111, alni\i' I'ltiir I''i>li lti\ IT ....
s. ;fi) \v.
S. S7 w.
S, IS w.
iiiii-rli nl' I'ii.' S.'iinly I„ikf
S. L'S W.
s. ;;7 \v.
•s. ;{,■, W.
al..iM'laK.'
lal\f IH'ai- Miinri'
s, it w.
S. •_>.( \v.
oMi'i' -lliav .
s. ;i.-. W.
S. Ill w.
i.al..' «.-! o! l',,M.r l.alf
latllr \\liiliti>h l.al<i, iiaiinus
s. :ii w.
s, :y \\,
S. L'L' \V.
l.aki l..|,,u l.iltl.- Wliil. lUl, l.aki'
.1 uini'iiiu il' I lii-\\ alii' I<akf
S. Ill w .
.\l"lltll of l''n>li r If nil-
s, ;!i; w .
( 'km ill ill JiiviT, iirai- l''ii>tfr Hi mi
•s. ;;;i W
\M-I I'llll nf Niflllf l-akr
S. -Jl w.
*' nil tilt li »(t' Si niris lli\ I'C
S, k) w .
S. ,')ii w.
mar llav Ititfi- . .
S. i:i W ,
l.nWlst 1 liiT lta|lii|
S. I'll w .
Till.
()'.cr llic riiuntiy iliiccllv iinilrrlaiii liy Acrlia'aii rucks, lln-rc is but 1
a scanty coatiiii;' ul' till, cliiclly lyiii;,' in llic iHiltuiiis o
■ the (lc|ii('ssi()iis, 1
Init 111! till' iiioic i'\cn smtaci' nt' tlic I'al.cd/iiic
flick- the till is 1
jp|('s(;iiL ill iiiiicli laiLjci' ;iiiiiiiirit, ot'tcii asiiiiiiiii,' a '^
'litly iiiiilnlalinu; 1
cdiitoiir.
1
MnniilMN.
Lai';,'!' well ilcliiicil iinnaiiiic ridges ace sclilniii seen lowai'ijs tlic- 1
liiii'lli, anil tlio^c wliii-li can lie iiiailrniil consist, of'
an acciiniiilatii'ii
(if fi orcal. nuniix'c of limililcfs ; liut t'lii-tlici- soulli a i;
fcat Illumed iiiur-
tunic ai'cii cxlcnds iilnii;,' tlic oicst of tlic count ly lictw
ccn tlicCliuicliill
TYRRELL, 1
and Hiiskatchc
tlie Duck and
Dninilins mi
UiviT, wlici-c
l\ allies. Of (
tlio inofainie a
I'ivofs.
Sandy cskci
llalcliet and ^
The most CO
howcvef, oceui
the bulks of Si
difection of li
less than a y
to one mile ii
a chafaclei'ist i
in llei^ht. 1 he
which tiiey fi
assoft(>d mate
boiddei's, I'n
jiactcd of o\ er
mit is not foii
downwai'ds, th
at. iMifther, tl
eijial ones e,\ai
tliey seem to
desciiiicil, I V
wofd fof a coll
'I'hcif sha|ie,
induce one to
ice-slu'et, wiiei
Stf'ams lliiwii
yofi;es and cai
bottiiin of the
nows nii^ht Ik
icy walls reciu
'.vmild assume
.Nofth of th
till! lakes apjii
I'LKlSIfX^KNK,
l'.\ I)
and Saskiitcli(!waii livci.s, foi'iiiin;,' a i'('j,'l()ii similar to tin; sumiiiil of
tlie Duck and iiidinii niDUntains in .Manitoba.
Dl'undins occur in a nuinljci- oi:' |)1;"m's, as in tlic Nallcy of .Mudjatick I 'luinliiis.
Hiv(>r. \vli('i(i many of tiii'in have cores of the underlying rock.
i\ames, or disjointed ridges of sand and gravel, were seen in some of Kaincs.
the morainic ai'eas, esjieciaily on th(^ uppiir part of SIoik; and <!eikie
rivers.
Snndy eskors occur, ruiniing witli tlie sti'iii', in a few pku'es, as on I'Micis.
Ilatciiel and Wollaston lakes, and on the i)atd<s of (ieikie I'iscr.
The most conspicuous and iiileresl ing drift iiills in the whole region, u,,;itiiiii\\'^.
howcN'er, occur in tiie iiasin of C'li'c Lake, around lUacI; Lake anil on
the h inks of Stouf KImt. They are sleep, narrow ridges, paralli'l to the
direction of glaci.ition, with the sides joining in a crest that may Ik;
les.s than a yard in width. They aM'i'a^e from a i|uarter of a mile
to one mile in length, and rouml down liciiiK' to liolh ends, with
a characteristic drumlin like contour, and Nary from 70 to L'5l( feet
in height, the average heing aliout IJD feel. Unlike ( skers, or kanies,
whii-li they rcseinlile in some re-'p((ts, tliev are not composed of
assorlecl material, hut. rather of una-<sorted rock-llour iiii.\ed with
lioulders. I 'nlike drunilins, they do no, semi to hav(^ lieeii e\('r ccjui-
pactcd or o\erridden liv llu' ice, as th" iiuiterial is loose, and the smn-
nut is not rounded oil' from siih- to side, Iml r.ilher from the crrst
(lownw/irds, they descend in as sleep a slope as the material will stand
at. I''iirther, they all lie in the IjaNins of large po^l ulacial lakes, tile prin-
cipal ones examined lieing in Hyper Crre and Hyper Ulack lakes. .\s
they sfi'm to dill'er from any drift hills that ha\() heen detinitely
(lescrihed, I would sui;.;esl for Miem tin; name ispiitinow, the Cr( e
Word for a con^pi<-uous hill.
'I'hcir shape, and I he characli'r of t heir materia!, with their po>ii ion, \|,,ili"i.|
iniluce one to helicNc that the\' weir t'ormcd in narrow gorges in the '"""'' '""•
Ice-sheet, when the front of the glai'ier was iMMinded liy a. dre[i lake,
Stl'"ains tlowiiigoii or near the surface pUini;ed into those ire hound
goi'grs and carried their load of detritus intolhr ([uiet water at the
!)ottom of I he gorge. 1 n some such way as this these narrow ispati
HOWS nnght have heen formed of loose unassorted material, and as the
icy walls rececled or nu'lted away and the lake was drained, the siiles
would assume .a slope as stivp as possihlr.
.Norlh of tlir watershed between (,'liuichill and Stone rivor<, most of (;i;„.i:il lali ~,
the lakes a|ipear to have stoo<l at a higi;er level than they do at pr(^-
•24 1)
ATllAliASCA l.AKK AND CM llifll H.l. lilVKli.
llv|..r.('
llv|.,i.|',
sent, in tlir time iiiiiiicdiatcly suli>.('i|iu'nt to tlie rcl ircniuiU uf tlic
yri'.'U ici' slicet. The iiatuiiil iiitcrciKC! is tliat tlicy lay lictwci'ii the
face <it' tiic waiiiiiu; it'i'-slieol and lii<,'ii('r laiul o\ er wliicii llio water
llowi'tl to form tiio i^rcat ri\i'rs of tiie ,i,'lafial period. Iiiordci'to
a did a iiiultiiijirity of iiaiiii's that ai'c dillii'ult to rt'iiicmlicr. aiu' nmie
of wliifh can 1k! lot'ated from an ordinary t,'eoi,'i'a]>liic map of llie pre-
■-(■nt day, it is iici'e pro])os('(l to aild tiie prefix lnjpjr - to the name of
the pi-c-i lit lal-;i' oi' i'i\('r to (l(>siL;nate tlie formec Idyii IcncI lake that
f)Ciii|ii('d its ha--iii or valley. I'or ex.iniple, around the soutliern and
wcslcrn shores of Cree Lake, well-detined shoie lines were found up to
ei;;hly feet al)()ve the ])resent water level. Tt is proposed to call the
lake that formed these old shorelines llyperCiei' Lake. This lake
i'Xt<iided from the heinhtof land northward to aluiut the norlh end of
Cree Lake, where its waters |ii'ol);ilily la\('d the foot ( f the l\e(>\\ ,i(in
ulacier. 'I'owards the east ami the west its extent is unknown, hut it
co\('i'eil what ai<' now wid(> sandy plains, extendiuL;- out in these two
dire<-t ions.
'J'lie lake did not exist for any ^i eat length of time, as it.-i shores arc^
hut slightly marked, its ^r.i\el heai'hes liein^; small, and its I'oast-
elill's hui sliLiiitly eut. even in sut'i niateiial, < )n \\ < soutii side, form
inu 1 he ]);'esent height of land, is a wide sand\ j)lain, in whit-h are manv
deep elosed dejiressions. proliahly indicatilii.' thi' )iosition of iie;ivv
masses of iee. Si ret'^hini; soul h\\ ard finm this plain, down the course
of Mudjatiek i!i\er. is .i lari,'r amount of sandv matei il, of(en
stretehiuL;' out into wide sandy ]ilains. This extent of s.ind doulit less
marks the line of one of the w.iier coursi's drainin;.' the fare of the
i;laeier at almut the time that llypert'ree Lake came into existence.
L) t hi' same way II y pel I! lack Lake si I one hundred and I went y-
li\e feet al)e\c the pri sent level of lilack Lake, and extended for ;i
loni; distance wy ( 'ree .ind Slone ri\(is. llyper-Athaliasca Lake i-ose
alio\f ihe pr<>sent le\el of Lake .\ ! haliasc.a, as is shou ii liv the
beautiful raised beaches on I lea \'er Iodide Island, ;iiid the wide s.-mdv
]ihins seen l)y .Mr. I)o\\lin^'on William liivei' : hut wheiher it at ;inv
time was i-onlluent with I lyperd'il.ack Lake was not determined.
Iiy]ier AN'ollaston Lake occupied llie iiasin of W'ollasion Lake, and
extended a <'onsiderablc distance up (icikie liivcr. I l\'per I'hurchill
Like lay !.i the present \alleyof t'hurchill Liver, and, when .at its
L'l'eatest hciiihl. seems to ha\e extended southward as far .as the sand-
Idlls .-iround Cleai water Lake on the < d'een Lake liail.
It is hij;hly prolnible tliat some of the ^'reat post-^laci.d lakes of the
t'cirioii were .at times coiinei-ted, hut much further exjiloration would he
be needed m
ship to each i
The shores
deeply cut cli:
flow- in shallo'
when llowin;.
a i)asedevel of
isheil stre.'im
valleys, ne\er
pre.sent sire
e.\tent.
North of til
several miles o
the sand hills
.■lho\ I' the se.i ),
yond w hich. to
larue prairie oj
liiver, where i
lliiw iuL;' sw ifl Iv
bridije, thinly ■
and then the n
alluN i il l.inil w
of SturL,'eon Ki
liiittoin of a 1
a Inmilied feel
'J"he level liotto
urowl h of shor
lliriMiLih three
keejiiiiL;' lo l he
Shorlly lict'oi
Liver, hills of I
roumliiiL; plain,
the valley. Tl
liivei', as Well ;
water Mowing; f
Jieiiod.
(iUKKV LAKK VHAIL.
j.)
1)0 needed to define llieir co.ist-liiu>s, uiid to tlcterniiiie their ii'lation-
sliip to I'lic'h otliei'.
Tlic slioi'cs (if tlu- jircsciit liil<('s :iiT nowli^M'c stniiiu'iy iiiiuki'(l Iiv I'n-ini -hurc
deeply <'Ut clilis or' lie.ivy Ijeaclics. liitlic iiorllicrn iirtii tlie strejiiiis
tlow in sliallow ciiaiincls, liavinu' only in rare and loeal insiaiu-es, even
when llowiiii,' tinouuli clay m' incilicrcnt sand, I'ut down tlirir Kcds to
a i)as(>-]e\H'l ot' eldsion. On the C'rclai-eoiis plateau, the small diniin-
islied stfeanis ot'leii wind thfoiiLih the l)ot tom-lands of (h'ep, wide
valleys, ne\er e\cn inipini,'iiiL; a:;ainst theii' hii,'h !j;rassy baidcs. The
present sti'e .s ai-e not dcepenin;; t hese valleys to any appivrjahlr
extiMit.
I)i;S('|;ilTI()N OF IKMTI'S.
(,'rrrii J,ltl,-i Tfilll.
Xol'tli of the Saskatehi'wan, the luad fl'oin I'linci' ^Mliei't passes fol' ( )1.1 -hcinliiu'.
se\t'ial miles o\ rf a ranuc of hai I ell sand v hills at the same elevation as
till' sandhills hctween I'linee Allieit and the l-'oiks (about I I'Jo feet
alio\t' the sea), and doiilitless fofined as dunes on the si'inc old shore, he-
voni] wliii'h, to the efossiny' of St ini;ron lli\ii'. is a |ilea-;ant eountfv wit h
lai'ijc jirairie o]ii>ninys, and <lotti'd witli -idves of po]ilaf. Stui'geoii
River, wheii' crossrd, is a stream lifly tcrt wide and three feet deeji,
Mowini,' swiftly in a c'haniiel ten fci'i drcp. Wrst of Sliiri;con l!i\'er
hridi;!'. ihiidv uiHidi'd suidv hills are aLT'iin crossed for several miles
and then the road passes for twelve or tifteen miles over rich Unci
alhivi d land wooded with ]>oi lar. to the liaid< of Shell Creek, a liraneh Slu'll Civik.
of Sturgeon lliver. This stream winds in a shallow chainiel, in the
liottom of a wide sallev with m'litlv slopinu- sides from fifty to
a hundred feet hi^h, and from half a mile to a mile and a half apart.
The level liotlom-land is chietl v of sanil or line L;ra\ el and liears a close
t,'rowt h of short i,-rass. Tl.c trail fipllows i his liottoiii-land westward
ihroiiuh three ranges of townships, and then turns northward, still
keeping- to tln^ liottom of the same valiey, which is here very wide.
Shortly liefore leaching; f^andy l,ak(>, which lies to the west of .Shell
lliver. hills of loose sand and iMHilders licy;in to rise above the stir-
rounding,' plain, and boulders lie-in to be scatteiiMJ over (he bottom of
the valley. The hills are doubt less inorainic, iinil the valley of Shell MmMinir
Kiver, as well as others in the vii'inity, were apparently formed by the " ""■
water tlowiiii; from the face of the glaciers at tlie dost' of the ^lacial
iieriotl.
'M!i
26 D
AIIIAIIASIA I.AKK AND ( 11 T liClllI.I, lilNICK.
.IK lilMT.
A t'l'w miles luirtli of Samly l<iikt', Slirll Kivcr is criissfd, in llin
iiii(l(lliM)t' a \vi(l<! siiiidy tlat, at an (■icvatiuii uf 17n() t'cci ai)i>\i' tlic sra.
This sandy llat, aiipaitMitiy tlic iiottoni of a dct'i) wide vall<'y, is
followed l)v tlie li'ail iiortiiward, alonu tlie east side of Devil's Lake,
to the c TossinLf of Itii,' liiver, at a distiinec of six miles lieyond Slii4l
Itisei', and at an elevation of 171") feet alio\(' the sea.
()l,l v-i]||.\. I''i,i; l!i\ei- is here fifty feet wide, with a gravel lioltolii. It is said
to llow into (.'rooked Lake a few mil(>s helow this ford, which lake dis-
c'liaiL;es by Dori' l!i\er into I>eaA-er Itiver a triluitary of Chtnchill
IMver. The watershed liel ween the Saskatchewan and Clnirchill rivers
Watiishi'd. was therefore crossed on n sandy {)lain in the lioltom of a deep valley
rnmuiii;' i.orlh-v.'est and south-east. I'iIl,' Hiver enters the west side of
this valli'v not far al>o\c the fold, lint the \,illey coiiliiuies on towards
the north west for an unknown distance, its hotloni heim; occiijiied hy
a series of shallow Lake.-. I'leyond JiiL; I!i\er ford, the trail keeps
to the huttoni of thi;. v.illiv foi' nine miles, until it ri>es to an eleva-
tion alioxe the sea of |S."ili fcrt. Then the trail leaves the \allev and
ascends it-, west haidv, which has here a height of two hundred feet,
liiyond which, for live miles, ari> hi,i,'h sandy niorainic hills, scattered
Siiiniiiit .ill viith lio.dili'rs. The hiu'hot jioint on the trail is in a heavy spruce
"."."■■"""■ forest iu these lulls, the elevation beim; abiuii i.'L>JI) feet abovi the sea.
Beyond t hese hills is a jfravel ]ilain at an appro.ximate cicv ati(jn of
:2tl(>(J feel, th roll :;h vvliicli r.ijjKi.i llows, in a beautifully terraced
\allev, half a mile wide and I >>0 feci dn'p. Its sides are s|cc[i and
yiassy. not >trevvn with boulders, and are apparently underlain by
I'ierr" shales, but no scarped baid<s were ol served, for the present stream
does not ajipcar to be I'lodin:;' or diepcnini; I he \ alli v to an v appre-
ciable extent. As the valley is ascended it becomes ifiailiiall' iiallovver,
not so much thretiiili the rise of the but to, n as on account of the westerly
.s|op(,' of the country away from the liii;li stniiy jiill.s lately pas^i'd
over. Finally it widens out into an extensive s[ ruce ;ind t.imarack
swamp, at an elevation of about I'.KJII f( el above the sea. ;ind only
thirty feet below the sun oimdiiii,' couuliy.
Le.ivinu- the valley at .'i small tribiit.iry crei k, the tr.'iil for ei^lil or
ten miles crosses a rollini:. iiliillv prairie, underlain by a .-anily till,
with .-111 elev.itiiin of about IJOtJI) feet above the. ,i. The country
SaiicMiiU-;. then begins to have a ileliiiite slope norl liw ai'd. and rou;,di, steep, sand v
lulls, ihinlv wDoiltil with llanksian pine, make their appearance, .ind
continue aloiiir the line of the trail for sixteen miles, in which distaie e
the country has declined about 'J'lll feci. These sand-hills do not
.seem to be niorainic iu character, but rather t(» reuresent one or more
old coastlines o
north in post j; I
North of thes
spruce .ind baks
fe^w botddi'i's, ex
< ireen Lake is
an elevation of
valley two huiu
iuLC to forty feet
densely wooded
e.xtinds southw.i
is lar^elv couipo;
(plarl/ite, white
termineil, but li.>
twenty to thirl;
lake !,'ets its nan
collects on the si
< In the west
ty|iical calcarcou
line of small liou
shale was found
on edee, as if il
far from the part
iucludinu' (I'/nliiiji
of .Manitoba, toi;
prisiii.'itic shells 1
a niunber of fies
stone, doubtless
< )n the east .-
l::ild< is one hum
uiit is a scaijied
beiided w ith liiu
relationships wei
ylat'ial ai;-e.
i'hree miles ai
a scarp sliowini;
Cretaceous shale
(juartzite, vein (j
•]
i:iiKi:\ i.AKi; AND i:i;avi;u liivicu.
•27 i>
ukl t'oiist-liiins on the slioro of ii grout liikr lliat cxlciulcd ;i\vay to tlu!
nortli in [lost f,'l;u'iiil times.
Noi'tli of tlif'si: iiiils a Lfciitly slopiiiL,' ovcM pliiiii, wooiiol willi jiojilar,
sjinu'c and lialsaiii, and iiadcilaiii iiy a sli,i,'ln'y sandy clay, with vci'y
fi!W liduldiT.s, cxtiMids to llir ('di.;(' of tlic wdli'V of (ircch iiakc.
<trrrii 1,(1 l,r (ui'l 1)11 n-ir Ji
inr.
(ireen Tjako is a nari'ow body of wator oigiitci-n iriil(>s loni,', lyin*,' at OM \a11.\'.
an olcvation of 1 I 10 tVel al)ov(! tlic .sea. It nestles in the liottoni of a
valley two iiumlicd feetde(>j)at its southern end, and 1,'raduaily shallow-
iniT to forty feet deep at its northern end. TIk sicles are slopinu' and
densely wooded with |io])]ar and s|iruei'. l''roni the lak(^ the valley
extends soulhu.ird an undetermined dist.inee. The heaeh of the lake
is lari;('l\ iMimposed of roundeil t lansjio- ted lionldei of granite, white
(|Uart/it(', white limestone, i<i'e. The depth of the water was not tle-
termined, hut tishermen li\ ins,' in the vieinity report de]iths of from
twenty to thirty fathoms, prolialily towards its northern end. The
lake L;ets its name fi'om the ihiek eo.itini; of lloatinii L'reen ali,':i' whieh
collects on t!ie surf.ice in the autumn.
< (n the West li.ink, a short distance north of the end of ilu^ trail, Nii,ln;ii:i
typical calc.ireoiis Niohrar;'. shide is scattered aloiii; the beach liehind a ""•"''■
lini' of small Koulders, and .-it the edi^e of the t,'rass :i line of the s:ime
shale was found .'MendiiiLr for about lifty yards, standiiii; more or less
on eilue, as if it h.id -liddcn finin the baid< behind, imil evidently not
far from tiie parent rock. It coiil.iin-^ a laru'e ninnliciut foranunifi'r.a_ I'l.iaiuiiuti i.i
includinu' (i'/iil>li/i rnm rrifurni and other forms foinid in the Niobr;ii,i
of .Manitolia. t<ii,'ether with frai,'ments of tish rem:iins and of the thick
jirismatic shells of I inn'i ninois. ( )n the beach in the vicinity wer(> also
a nnnibi-r of freshly iuoken fragments of lignite and nodules nf iron-
stone, doubtlc^-s al:-o derived from the Cretaceous shale ot' the bank.
< >ii the east shore, three miles north of theend of the trail, tlleStratlti.il
1 iid< is one Imiulred and tifty feet hi^h, .■iiul thirty I'cet from the sum- "' '' "
mit is a scar]ied face showiiiLj thilty feet of soft sti-atilied sand, inter-
bedded with line sandy L^raxel with well namdcd pi'bbles. Itsexact
relationships were not determined, but it is probably uf j,;laci,d or post
glaci.'d ai;i'.
Three miles and a half further north and ten feet abo\e the lake, is till.
a scarp sliowini; four feet of lii;hl unst latitied till, composed lari,'ely of
('retaceous shale, but lioldini,; pebliles, sonu' st liated, of nianiie, white
(pi,irt/ite, \ein ipiart/, limestone, iroiistoiu', iVc.
ATIIAIIASCA LAKK AM) (11 T li( 11 1 1,1. lllXKli.
Cillill l,:iKr
i;.;,N,.i i;i>
llV|..T
CIlllKhill
(Ii.iihI K:l|
r...iii.i.i-.
(iici'ii Liiki' l!i\('r, a small slui^iiisli strc.uri live miles Ioiil,' iinii sixty
tri't wide, with reedy li.iiiks, ((iiiiicrts tlie noith etui of (ireen Liiko
with Itciivcr IJi\er, the ciiiTfiit sc metiiiics rumiiiij,' out of l\n' \nkv, niu\
sometinips into it. .\ low lyra.ssy ihcikIow ('xtchils on hoth sides of
tills river, uiiderl.iiii hy ten feet, mori? or less, of stratitied sand and
clay. riene.'ilh this elay is a lied of ]ie,it eNteiidini,' beneath the level
of the water, and often lont.iiniiiL; lartje niimliers of sm.iU fresh-water
.shells, |»(inl)tless the stratitied sand and clay is eom|iosed of m.iterial
liroiiuli! down from I lu; west liy j'.e.iNcr ll;\er in liiuis (jf hiL;li water,
and spread out at the nepllth of ( Ireen l,.ike.
, , r>eji\er l\i\er rises more th.in 200 miles fin-ther west, in th" vicinity
of Lae la liiehe, .ind Mows east \\ai<l tothetireen L.ike l!i\er. Here it
turns ,it rinht angles, .issnuiiii!,' the eoiirsi' of the latter si ic.nii, ;iiid
llows nuit hw.ird to the s<iuth end (pf Me ,i la Crosse Lake. .\t first
the hanks are low and comiiosecl of stratitied allmial elay without
lioulders. The surrounding eount ry seems to lie a level plain, fl(jm ten
to t went V ti\ e fe( t .iliove t he river, and well wooded vv il h poplar.
H.-iid^s of str.it iiied s;ind soon licLtin to.! eon hot h sides of the river
l(. heiifhtsof foi'ty oi' lifty feel, ami the str.iim is hroken hy r.ipids over
a hed of houMers. 'I'he surriaimliiij.' eoiinli'v ajijiears to lie level or ^eiil Iv
.slopini;' no) tliward, and the ini're sandy |iarts |)rolial)ly represent shore-
lines of I I vpel' I'hurchill l„ike, the liost-Lllilrial 1.1 !■■ th.lt covered
il ureat tr.iet of country sout h of Churchill J{i\er. The li,ink> .iL;;iin
decline tow.irds i he iiioiil li of W ate r hen itiver, a consideralile irihut.irv
from the west. They continue low ,ind con-.ist of el;iv for sever.-i! miles,
and then cliani,'e to stratitied sand and rise to a iiei;,'ht of eiijhty feet,
prohalily along another ancieil sh<ire. .lust lielow this is the last and
liil. heav iest rapid on this portion of the rivei, known .i- llr.ind IJapid,
with .1 fall of aliout twenly-li\e I'eel. The lied is of lioulders, and the
hanks, ahoiil thirty feet high, are of <lark L(r.iy. slight ly jointed, un.-.t rati-
fied saiidv till holding pelililcs and houlders. The lnuilders are chiclly
of .•! rather line gr.iiiied i-eddi-h v'r.'iinte, l.ni very m.'inv aii' of u;reen
lluroiiian (.') rocks, a coiisiderahle niimher .ire of compa. I white I'ake-
o/oic lime.stone. one <if which contained '/'rnr/nni' //cr, or .•in allied form :
a few are of li.ird while (pi.arl /it ic sandstone, t wo or I line snrdl ones of
soft lirow n I ).ikol;i ( f) sandstone, and one large sl;il) of porous (-rela
ceous limestone containing ('i//ifiiiii suh/rn/n -.i/Dnii is, or .n somewhiit
similar species.
lielow (Ir.'ind U.ipids. thestre.iin llows with .'in easy and gradually
shu-keninu curient, and lioulders soon disappear from the liiinks,
\vhi<-h .are gener;dly low and wooded with lials.nii popl.'ir. Ilowevei',
just al)oV(^ the
clifTs of white
of Dakota .1^'
( )ll the top of
which is a ni
and this sand
Dakota from
Cn^taceous sh:
from its close •
stom> in iioi-il
Kivei' I he lianl
feet, (low n to a
t if 111 urovvth
throuiih the hi
hi^h. Toward
like ex]i.uision
I'oiinded hills
in pkh'e was si
l'"our miles f
Lacrosse Islam
aliove I he la''e,
with co.irs'- s;ni
feet high, the
sand. .\t the
rounded liouldi
gran!:e, while i
Som(> are of ;i
agi'. V. hile a t'e*
i; tirillili'is, ,Vc,
roundim;' shori
liistorv w.'is no
deposit formeil
Two miles ai
Like, is a l.irge
tlu^ fur trading
a Lii'litli- slope
ers. .More lli:
indicating the
though it was
ii.K X I. A citossi'; [,AKi:,
->9 1)
just above tlio luniitli of Lowci' l)or('' Hivci', a tiihutiiry from tlic iMst,
cliffs of wliitc imil li.Lflit yellow, well hcddcil, soft saiidstonc, iirohiilily
of Diikotii iii,'!'. ri-o to a liciulit of ninety feet on llu^ west hanU. I '.i1;nt;i >;niil
On tlie top of the saridstoiie is a line oi peliMes and Ijoulders, over
wliicli is a 'oot or two of sandy till. No ti'ace of fossils was found,
anil this sandstone is merely proxisionally assii;ne(' to the ai^'e ot the
I)akota fidhi its |iiisition near the lia^e of the slopi' underlain liy
Crelaeeous shales, ite., from its lieini; oscrlain hy aeajipin'^ of till, and
from its close similarity to many of the ini'olierent heds of hakoiasand
stone in nurl li Western .M.initoha. Ili'low the niiuidi of Lower l)ori'
liiver the hanks are ;,'enerally alluvial, \iiryini,' in hei^jht from twi'he 1."" liaiiK~.
feet down to a low marsh, all hut the latter lieiui,' wooded with a lieau-
tiftd ;:rowth of poplar. < l.'c.i^ionallv we eoidd see tli.'it we w .re winilin'4
through (he liollomof a, wiile \allev with hanks about se\'enty f et
iiiL;h. 'Toward^ its mouth the ri\er bee nies a series of marshy lak(!-
like e\|i.insiMns, with m.iny of the points covi^red with boulders.
Hounded hills of sand and Imuldeivs rise here and there, but no imk
ill jilaee was seen.
I 'I
//'■ ('( III ( 'rii<sr Liil,'\
{•"(Uir miles fioMi the nioul h of r.ea\-er l;i\er is He .a la ( 'rossi- or l.;iiTn";e
i.,aerosse island. Its -uinmil is a le\el sandy jilain about forty feet
above tlu^ la'c, while its sides are sleep and fir the most ]i,irt covered
with coarse s.'iiid. .\t its south end, wheri the bank is but twenty
feel hi^h, the uppi'r ten t'eet is a lilie li:.;hl lirowii (^\enly stivitilid
sand. .\l the liorlh end of the island the beach is composed of small
rounded biailders, .duput t hi'ce i|uariei s of which are of red and i;ray
^l'aii.:e, while most of ihei'est .are of hai'd \\hile ,ind red sandstone.
Some .are of a soft hiL;hly ferrueiiious s.indstinie. pidl)abl\' of I ),akola
age, v.hile a few are of |)evonian do!omitic limestone holdini,' Atri/jui
vliciiliir'i", .Vc. This sandy island is \eiy conspicuous, as tlie sur-
riJiindini:' shores are I'oiii] osed almost entirely of till. Its ei'olo!,'ic;d
liistory w.as not clearly ;ip|>arent, liut it may represent a sjimly (udta
(lo]iosit foniieil ill the mouth of a super-glacial stream.
Two miles and a cju.irler from this island, on the west shore of the l„icresse
Like, is a lariff l{oma;i ( '.it holi<.' mission establishment, .and iic.ir it is ,','., "j^l,,/.,,, "^^j
the fur tradiiii; store of the i I udson's Hay ( 'omp.'iny. These are built on
a ueiilh- slo[ie of li;;lil-ij;ray sandy till holding pebbles and a few bould-
ers. .More than half of the boulders arc of hard white sandstone,
indic.atine the pi-esencc of this sandstone* in the immediate \ieinity,
thou.iih it was not seen in any natural outcrops.
hi|.h I
I HI
30 D
AIIIAIIASCA I.AKi: AM> Cllf liCII f 1,1. lilVKK.
Soiiic a^li liMvcd in;i|il('s li.ul liccn ]iliuitc(l in (lie LCiudcii i>i llic
lliiilsdiis \\:\y ('(iiii])aii\ s post, wliicli me now tVoiii liii to tit'ti'in t'"('t
liiuli, unilc licallliy, anil Ix'iiriii;^ iibundant sci'd.
I),,]^,,,., I''i\(' miles and a halt' noitliwcst of tlic Mission, on llic south west
.-MiiilstiiMi'. shore ot' the lake, lirhind tiic liracli of liouldcis, is a low oiit(.To|i of
liu'hl yi'llow, l)r-owii wi'athiTini.'', ffiahic sandsloni', hoii/ontally hi'ddcd,
lint often showinj; eleiir false heddini,'. !l coMtains many small
nodnles of iionslone, and is overlain liy a thin hand of ii'oiisione, mixeil
u ith a vandy clay shale. 1 1, contains many fiaj;nieiitafy r<'iuaiiis of
ll.iiils, now entirely c.ul)oiiize(l. .Mthoii^di the <,'('i)lo!,'ieiil iv^o of this
hed could not lie delinitely determined, it is prohahle that it rc))reserits
some of the lower layers of the l).iki,ia sandstone.
It .-. oxcrlain hy a clilV of soft s.mdy clay, with lioiildcrs. most of
which .lie of uray gneiss, hut some are of limestone, whih; others iiro
of yrceii trap, h.ird j,'ra\ sandstmie, tine conudoiiier.ite, etc. 'I'he land
lichind is nio(lc'';itely level and ucll wnded with poplar.
At lie .'i la Crosse three cariocnicM wire en<;aj,'ed for the summer,
and on the :.".ith of .Iuim', ISltJ, we started iiort liw.ird.
I],.;, I,, Jle .1 li ("rosse l,ake extends northward from the .Missi(in for
l.msM'.i.nUf. tliirty-niiie nul(?.«. For the tirst twenty inne miles we followed its
west shore, which is ifeiierally low ,nid indented hv deep liivs, the
licich liein;,' of sand or lionlders. The I'.ist sid ■ is much slrai!.'hli'r,
iind ris' s in a hiuh wooded ridjie parallel to the like. 'J'his ridne is
said n.it to he s.-indy, hut to he eonijiixed of cl.iy and lioulders, :ind
the thick forest covcriiiL; it wuuld coidiiiii this st.'itement.
Ka~t .<liciv. At lh(^ end of the above distance is a loie/ u'favel iioint. from which
we crossed the lake, here oidy about a mile and a half vvide, lo i\h\
east shoie, which was found to be composed of u'r.ivel and boulders,
almost all of granite, thoui;h some arc of sandstone N'me of lime-
stone cotild be found, indical iiiu' that vve were now further north than
till' ciIl;!' of the jios^ihly underlyiiii; limestone. The country behind
the east shore is here L;<'iierally low. No rock in pl.-ice wis seen
around ihisp.-irt of the like.
Cliuicliill
l.'ivcl,
.'s|l:l;.'^^cllll^^
l-lll<c.
l'"rom the north end of lie a la Ci.isse hake, Churchill Hiver llovvs
eastward .as a rapid stream from iifty to seventy yards wide, over a
1) 'd of i)oiilders, with low banks of sandy till. lielovv this rapid the
river ojhmis into ShaLfwenaw Lake, a beautiful sheet of clear water,
dotted with many wooded islands.
l''or seven i
j;entle cm i.
water, or over
where theie
three rapids.
The l)anks tl
seein to 1
Mudjiitir
streams in ll
.")" , and llou ii
'nto Churcliili
llio^t of till' CI
banks of stra
they seldom c
few r.ipids, am
rp to the
it beyond wha
ISl'.) .•ind lS'_'i
the .\thabasca
( »n the 1st C
was then a; cn
rapid current,
where ovcrhui
e.inoes with a
since the bed c
was, theii'fore,
to the banks, i
that vve vvcic
the rvish of till
back further d
bars would In
then its uppin
of a huire cmi
Three miles
iiii,' through tli
of some rid!,'es
which rise to ;
ML'D.IATICK Hl\i;il
il I*
l''iit' s('\on mill's licluw tliis hike, tlic fi\< r is widt; anil <Iim'|i, with a
;;(Mitli" clli'ii'iit. Till' l)aiiks ail' low ami wooilcd to llic cdiii' "t" liu'
water, or (ivci'^^'iowii willi j^iass ami st'd^c, cxi't'iit at sonic ot' I lie jinints
where there is II l)ai(( st fin;; of bunkleis. JSelow this (|uiet water are
three rapids, with descents res))ecti\ elv of aliout six, ei;;ht ami ti\e feet.
'J'he hanks throiiLihout arc low and of till, and ihe heds of the rapids
seem to lie entirely of houNh rs, no rork in place liein;; \isil)|e.
uMiii/jiilii/i J'iri r.
li-rUv Ut\U
Miidjatiek or Had Cariboo ijiver. rises in several small lakes and
streams in the low roi'ky count ry a short distance north of latitude
o? , and tlowirif,' almost directly southward foi' eighty mihis, empties
'nto ( 'hureiiill l!i\cr, liiirleen mile-. Iielow Ilea la ( 'ro>se Lake. I'or
most of the coursi! it llows in a shallow u imlinu' channel between It vel
baid<s of siratihed sand. Ilocky hills may be seen on both sides, but
t he V seldom clo-e in on the rivei', and I he si ream is (ib>triiclod by but
few r.ipi<ls, and nio.-t, of these are caused by .iccUMUilat ions of boulders.
l']! to the date of the present e\ploi;it ion nothinn' was know ii of
it beyond what is indicated on the face of .Sir .lohn I'raiddin's map of
|SI1) ;irid l^'Jl*. bv the followini,' note : "."stated to allonl ;i passage lo
the .\thid)asca L.ikc bv crossini,' a heiuhl at its source."
( )n the 1st of .luly, !■"'''.'-. we enti'i'cd the nioul h of t he river, which Hi-liuatcr
was then at extreme lii;^h water, and bei;;in the toilsome ascent of its
rapid curi'ent. The water w.is up in the willows, which almost e\erv-
where overhung the channel, s<i tli.it it was impossible to track the
cinoes with a line from the banks. roling w;is also outof the (|uestio!i
since I he bed of I he ih.uiiicl is composed of shifliiiL; i|uicks.iiiil. It
was. therefore, necessary to ascend entirely with paddles, keeping .lose
to the b.'inks, and occasionally clutching the low bushes. Macli time
that we Were obliged to I'l'iiss the winding ch.innel in order loa\oiil
tlu" rush of the current on the outer sides of the bends, we were swept
back further dow n the stream. I n lowei- water, when many of the s.'ind-
bars would be dry, the rixcr would jirob.ably be easy to ascend, but
then its upper stretches might be too shallow to permit of the passag(>
of ;i laruf canoe.
i' i|
Three miles up the stream, or just abo\e the mouth of a brook llow-
ing through the hills to the west, the river tlows for a mile near the foot
of some ridges of rather line and even-grained red biotile graniti' gneiss.
which rise to a hei'ditof fi'om thirtv to a humlred teel on tlii' east side
l!i.l!.'e<..f
'_'lici^s.
e i
.•L' I.
ATIIAIIASCV I.AKK. AMi (irililllir.l. iin Kll.
of till' \allry, an 1 cxtfiid tnwiuds ( 'liunliill l!i\i'iiii a diiccl inn S. | ,"i !•'
'I'licir sili'facc is jjciicrally .Sdiiicwiiat iiiin.'h and w oallii'icd, lail nianv
lit' the IniiliiT jxtiiits lire Ix'iiutit'nlly sinudllicd and iiuliNluMl and show
tlliuial-tiiif. liiK-, hut well marked ;,'lac'ial . stria', I rciidin;; S. 1") \\ . The direction ot'
;i.'l'iiial motion i'^ shown l)y tlio roundint^' down of the sunt hern sides of
many little pits; while at tiie same time the northeast sidi s of the
hills are rounded and tlie south-west sides are liroken and sir, wn with
fra'^iuenls of roek.
'I'wci mih's al)o\e t he last and hiiihest of I hise i.'ranile iiills, a port am-
is slated to run eastward In a jal'ie w hieli eonnei'ts with ( 'iiurchiil l!i\ er.
'I'he Indians often use lliis route in a\iiiil tiie lahorinus aseent of tiie
lower part of tiie ri\er.
Siiinly ii]aia.
liral' l;,,|.i.|.
I'n.l.ai.l
Ijiuraliir
A short di-tanee alio\e this pui'tai,'e, oi tlie west hank of ihi' river.
is a i;rove of |!aid<sian pine on an open sandy plain, loindnir llie lii'st
Jilr.isanI jiiece of div l.ind that we had seen since lr;ivini; ( 'liiirijiijl
l!i\er. l'"roni tiiis throve to IScai' ii.ipld, the river llows with an i\tn
cnrrent 'if aliout four miles an hour, throui,'h willow eo\ered tlats, with
here and lher<! groves of open pine woods. No I'crek could lie seen fi'om
t he canoe.
I'lcar llapid is a swift chute w ilh ;i f.'dl of ,'diiait two fc 'I, p,'isl which
is ,1 •Mirt.iL.'e track, one hundred yards in leni,'th, on the wc^t lumk.
The rapid is |irol)alily I'aused hy a ledi,'e of smooth cm k crossing thi'
I'hannel. l)\it the wiiter w.'is so hiuh ih.il none cciuld lie seen.
AlioM' I'li'ai' Itapid, the ri\er continues to wind thrni^h ;i sandy
plain to the fool of a series of rapids caused hy aecunuilat ions of
houlders in the lieil of the eh.-innel. I Ii adders are also scat tered in eon-
si ieralile ahundance oscr the llats on lioth sides of the river, thoiijih
\('rv few or none were seen lielow this point. .\t some places the
lioulders are piled in lonj,' ridu'es, which priiliahly re]ii'esent a moraine
formed hy the last glacier that extended southwiird in this region.
The rapids .'ire four in numlier ;iial extend for two ndlcs and a half,
but noni' are so imiietuous as to rendei- it impossihle to tr.ick the
canoes up them with a stout line.
Ivisl of the lowest of these rapids is a i id^e of I'cd hioliteu;r;inito,
ineludiniT lenticular masses of well foliated gneiss. ( )ne isolated hoss
was ('(anposed of dai'k uray, line grained, hii;hlv hoi-nhlendic gneiss,
associated with ;i line-grained diorite cli;irged w-itli sulphides.
We.st of the uppermost of the four rapid.s is a more or less rounded
boss, tliirty feet high, of dark, green, line graiiHMl. liighly altered trap.
A mile fui'tl
of .simd, is
and with ,in
wit h pyrrhol
A mile an
on I he west
cut hy m.'iiiy
si retches aW;
iiiile furl hei'
V. hile on .-I >i
heautifuily
Alio\e tlii
]il;iin, clill's ot
pe iring on I h
Old Wives
through a nar
ridge le.ids p,i
e.•lnoe■^ up the
Among till'
white Ath.ilia
nort h, an<l lic'is
north of t're(>
The adjoiiui
posed of a red.
S. f<U K. Till
1)0 detected, la
and on the fac
glaciated --urfa
l''or the nex
L'OO feet, an in
hour, and passi
imd-soutli dire
a boss of whiti'
highest point o
trees are giowi
]iine. At the
.across a dry i
m.aile to .'iNoic
•5
i
^""""i I Mrii.i\ii(K uivKii. ;i;i I)
A mile t'lii'tlicr ikhiIi, cm llu' cii-.t li.iiiK-. inul at tlir iimlli i ml nt' ;i fidu'i-
ut' suikI, is u smiill nuti-rop nf «liitisli i|u;irl/it<' stcikiiif,' X. S.") |.;_^ '.'n "'■'i'".
(ukI with iui iiluiust xcrticii! <ii|i. 'riii.si|iiiii'l/ilt' is wvv lii;,'lily rliuigcd
with pyrrliotitc, mid thi' immiiiuiss whs stiotijly dclli'ctfd Inwards it,
A iiiilc and 11 li.dl' I'lirllicr iinrih, a nuindid iiili tit'iy tiM'l hi^h r'i-i's
uiiihr west -.idc of tin' ri\ it, ('i>iii|i()srd ut' liuhti,'ra_v i;raiii(i' gneiss,
cut i>y many MMiisot' ii'd |ic'i,'niat iir. I''niiii tin- hill a Ion;:' saiiil ridijc
stit'li'hcs away ill a din'itii)ii S. "Jli Iv A Imss (if similai' i.'rii'iss, a
iiiilc fiift her ii|i I ho stream, sliuws a line fnliatiuii striking; N. Ml Iv,
\v hill' nil a siiiuulli siiifarc cld.r til till' watiT, u'larial uriiii\iii;;s ari"
lii'aut ifii.ly sjidwii trriidinuS. lMi W.
Aliii^r this hill ihr slicain fur sc\i'r;d iiiilrs \\iiids tlirmiiih a saiidv
jilaiii, rlills (if sliatitii'd siiiid fniiii tiiiity to forty ft'ct in hci^iit a(i-
pc iriiiLt "11 ' hr lianks.
• lid \\i\cs l!a]iid iiri'iirs at a shai ]i ciiix c in the si ream as it, passes (ilil Wimh
ihnuiu'h a narriiw L;ap in a i,'raiiile ridnc. A piirtai;e ii\er a. sciiililiv
I'idLte leads past it on the west side, hut it was possilile to haul nur
canoes up the rapid with a Imii,' line.
Alniini; the lioulders .seattel'eij ii\er the siutaee lure, are a few of
white Athabasca sandstone, uhieh ha\c lieen I ransportcd fium the
north, and have apparent ly heeii deri\ cd fnim the ^a mist our urea I viii^
nort h of C'ree Lake,
The adjoinini;- hills rise to a heiylit of ahoiit l.">0 tVel. and are coin- 'I'll- 'f
posed of a red. hiudily 'elspathie yranite i,'neis>, foliated in a direction
S. S(l Iv The tiijis of the hills are weathered so that no striie could
lie detected, liut there were many short J,'rl"•^es trending S. 'iO W.,
and on the face of the hill, near the edge of the water, are polished
glaciated surfaces showing grooves trending in the same direction.
I 'or the next eiiflit miles the river I;, is an aver.ige width of ahout
iJOO feet, an average depth of six feet, a eiirreni of almul li\e miles an
hour, and passes between !iii;li sand ridges trending in a general north- ""''''" '"'-'
and siiiilh direction. At the iioilh end of each ridge there is usually
a boss of whil i--li mie;i dinrite-giieiss, but the sand rises .-ibiue it, and the
highest ]ioiiil of each ridge is south of the rock. Small jioplar and birch
trees are ^lowiiiL; b\ the river, and the hills are wiiudcd with I'anksian
pine. .'\t theenil of this distance is a port.ige forty yards in length,
across ;i f\vv .--andv ridge, woodid with large pines. This portage is
made to a\oid a long bend of the river, into which rmler (.'I'cck is
;-{
:n I)
AlllAIIASCA I,\Ki; \M( < III li( (lll.l. l;IVi;i(.
Ilolilrrv
Kitiil III fiii|ii V. Tlii' CI I'i'k was -ii.ilril in lluv\ trniu I'lnlci' Lakf, «liiili
lie- six III' Mi'M'ii liiili'' I'.iil ii( Miiiljalirk IIImt.
A mill' ;iii'l M hill' .iliinr this |Mirl!ii;c. llcdiliTV Cii'ck, /i slrriiiii
lNV<'ii(yli\i' t'rii wiili', with a ^wit'l riiiiriii, lliiws ill tViiiii the wi'st, and
JM saiil til ri^r ill lli'ilili'iv LiiUi'.
\yiiitl«li iiiiiii- AlitiM' till' iiiiiiiiii 111' this I'icck is a I'nui.di'il iiili I'inlitv tVi't hii.'h, of
i|iiMitrtfliii'<-, I ., . , . 1 ••. • . 1 I .■ !■ 11 ' • I 1
wtiilish iiiii'a ilmiitc KiicH^, M'l'v iiivjjiiiai'iv tniiali'ii, liiit willi ii gciii'ial
(ii'iiii I'Msl ami wi'st.
'I'hr liver i-oni iiuii". in a i|i'|)ri'-siiili licl u rrii hilU iit' tllis yiii-is-^ t'nr
tlir iii'M t'mir iiiili'-. anil ihrii lin' liiJIs fall away mi imIIht -iili', ami
it iriMT^i's a sanily plain in a vulli'v wliicli L;rat|iiall\- ini'ii'aM's
111 a ilrplh III' HM) t'iMt. Till' lull III' till' rivi'f is -ami, wiilmut
li 'illili'i s, hilt a t'ru hi mlilci s may 'irrasiuiiallv lii' si'i'ii i m I lir -iiii ciiiinl-
ini,' plain, niaiiy nt' ih in lii'ini; whiti' i'ala'n/.iiiu samlstunr. rii|iliii' has
liiivv ahiiii-t I'litiii'ly iiisa|i|H'ari'il. a few lii'i'sut' hlaik -[irini' ami
tainiiark aii' urii\\in>; hy thi' liM'i, Init llir hanks ami ii|ilaiiils air
w iiiMlrii u ith |<ini'.
In latitml" ."al ;)."i , hill- nl' iji ay hiotiti' i.'ni'l-> risi' ahnM' this >aml\-
I'lain, anil in latilinli' ."Hi .'{S the ri\ci' s\\ci'|is a'.'ainst t hi' rastiTii siih-
lit' a hill 111' ri'dilisji i,"ay. liii,'liiy liintiiic i.'ii('iss. wrll t'nliatcd and stiik-
iin;- N. L'n Iv Tin' sini'ai-i' siiuws a nuinlii'r nl' stiuiiL; iilariiil L;riiii\i's,
tii-nilin:: S. .'ill W,
I ilMll'l
lt;i|ii<l-
A milt' and a h.ilt' mirlhnl' llii-hill, wr ii'arlii'd Ihi' I'mit ul' the
(iiaml li'ijiids, \\ Iiiti' the wati'f I'alls i'ij;ht I'ri'i .ait ;t li'di;c nt' i^iiriss,
111 Ilk I'll intii t \Mi sti'|is. A |iiirla'_'i', nini'tyyai'ds in It . a,ii\fi ii saml vtlat,
nin- ]iasi it nn thr rast siilr. Thf rm-k i- a i;ra . hintitf manitf i,'m iss,
well I'll iati'd, St likiiiL,' N. !•"> K., and diiiiiiiiL,' at a hiiili anyli' tti tin-
fast. A t|iiai'ii'r 111' a iiiili' alitnt' thf |Miii;ii;f is a hnii,' rajiitl unit fni'k
and hiiiilili'is, with a t'a d nt' six I'rfl. |ia-i wiiifli uf irafki'd ihr t-anni'
\villi a lint' nil thf ui'sl sidr. .\ Imin .• t ii'.uid Ihijiids thi'iiMT, imw
aliiiilt thiily I'fi'l uiilf, (lows tinin .i inndt'iatfly ui'll ilrliniil valli'V.
Hi>,'li -all' I ahull I a i|Uailt'r m' a mi If w iilf. ! lit' hanks nj' whifli a if nl'lf n a hiimlffd
t'i'ft in hf iL:lit, M'ly stff I', and rniii|iii-i'i| laiuf ly nl' sand, i hnniuli w liirh
.iif sca'li'ifd a t'l \v hniildfrs .ind pflihli's, all ul' llif lattiT hfin^ watiT-
wmii. Till' siiriai'i' ,ihii\t' i> nniliilaliiii,', risini; into hills alMiiit L'OO
t'fft aliii\ r t hf rixfi-.
'riiiff r.i|iii|-. In lliis \allfy art' thl'if rapids, thf Inufst nl' wliifli li.as a I'all nf ti\t'
t' ft, iiM'fa Ifduc 111' itray unt-iss with a ijfnfr.il strikf \. L'."i Iv An
almost Vfilical cliU'of ijnciss rises tin lli(> east. side. The iiiitltllf ra]iii|
l.s vei'y slliiil I
iiliicly yard-
I'all- ihiff I'll
Iiiiil; Ifails |iii.s
At II, lifiii
• iirai'tl l!i\i r.
stream IrMiii tl
( >n thf ur-
saiidy plain, ri
liii»tite-iiraiiiti
granile.
Thf rivfr ll
l'"nrks lit' the (
run tii:;ft her i
hfiin; I'nrty ,iiii
lurks is a h.iii'
S. |."i i;. and
f Insf tn till' fdi;i
'I'lif .Mudjati
tlirniiuli three s
The I'lninlrv
are inli'iiiiptfd
.\i thf I'.iik
liivfi', uhich I
pas-ini,' thf nil
t.iiiff. I'nr I'm
rminilfd, at a ili
and ill dfliiiftl.
Iiiiih s.intly plait
valley is marslr
V'ish sirfaiii, I'l
Sandy Lakf. u li
I'M'tiiiiL; 111' .) nl\
111' I his l.ikflet, a
< )nf small, h.i
111' t 111' lake, fill
.strikiiii; N. \'>
with a li-ht ^r
Mlli.lAlli K IIIVKII
;i:. I.
is Very siliiilai' in I'linrui'lcr In I lie Hist, |i;isl wliiill llli'lr is M |iul'tli;{f!
Iiilioty yiirils in Icinitli mi llir wrst sjilc. Al llio lliini i.i|iiil lln- ri\iT
fiilU (iii'i'f I'iM't (i\cr II Icili,'!' lit' ;,'i:iy L;iii'iss, wliilr ;i |i(p||iii;i' sixty imci's
liiiii; li'iiils piisl it nil till- I'list, li.iiik.
At a lii'iiil ill tlio \;iili'y, a iiiilc iiihI a Ii ilt' alioM' liic last raiml, < Hianl \'o\<t;
(iiiaiil IiImt, II swift, sliallow slicalil lit'ty tVrt widi', jniiis I In' iiiiiiii
stl ram tiiiiii t li" iMsl,
< )ii I III' West Itaiik, ali(i\ I' I III' Miiiiit li lit' ( iiianl IlisiT, ami Ki'liinil a
MMiiily jiliiiii, lisc i'iiiniili'<l liills nt' iiii'iliiiiii niaini'ii d iik inlilisli uray
liiutiti' L;iaiiiti'-;,'iii'iNs, iit'li'ii iiitrii'alcly tujilfil ill with ii ciiarsf ivd
^.'raiiilc.
Till' liM'f lliius I hl(iilL;ll till' |iilii'-ci)\i rrii s;iiii|\' |ilaiii U|i tu I lir I lu illiin
l''nl'ks lit' the (iv\illiiii anil M nil jat irk livrr^. w lirir I lir [wn slfraiiis
I'Uli tiiLirthrl' t'liPlli ii|i|Mi-.itr siilrs iit' a lulu,' saiiily |iiiilll, llir t'lMllirr
liriiii,' t'ipily ami t hr lal Icr sixty t'rri v.iilr. ( >ii liic wrsi iiaiik at ihr
t'liiks is a liarr hill nt' liiir uraiiinl, rril hiul ilr niaiiitr yliri-s, strikilit;
.S. 1 "i !■;. ami iii|i|iiiii,' N. 7"i I'l. at an aiii;lr ut' 111). Tlir siirt'arr,
<'liisi' til till' I'lli,'!' lit' Ihr watrr, is NM'll ulariatrd, st riir t inidiiii; S. I'll A\'.
'Ihr .Mliiljalirk l!i\rr is -.aid In llnu trmii llir iiurlhrasl, [iissiiiL;-
thriiiluh tlirrc small lakrs in its riiiii--(..
Ihr riiuiil ly iiiiu lirriiiiirs iiiuir Irw'l and swaiii|i\', and llir sirraiiis Mi.ir Lul
air iiilriiii|i|,d liy lakrs and -I rrlrlirs nt' i|iiirl walrr. t"iiiiti\.
Al ihr I'.iiks, \vr Irt't thr main slrrain and riilrird thr (iuillim
l!ivrr, which llnws t'nr riL'ht milrs t'lmn a nmi h ursirrly dirrrl inn,
Jiassini,' ihr ninr.th nt' llhiiiL;n iliwr almiii ihr midd'r nt' thr ilis- lihiii'.'" liivir.
tanrr. I''ni' t'niir niilr-. it uimU thrmiu'h a Irvrl marshy [ilaiii, sur-
I'nundrd, al a distaiu'r, liy hi'^h imky hill-. Thr hanks arr ntirn Inw
and ill drliiii'd. Ni ar the niniith nt lthin;,'n l!i\ n, sandy hills, or a
liiyli sandy |ilain, a]i|irnarhrs nn Iml li sidrs ; I ml still thr Imttnin nt thr
vallry is marshy, uilh many ahandniinl ri\ rr-rhannrls, and thr slut;-
I'ish stiram, t'rini'rd uilh \'rlliiu- walrr lilirs, rxtriids up In Litllr l.iftlr S;mily
. . ' . I,:ll>r.
Sandy Lakr, wliirli is -.nn rindrd liv hii,'h wnndrd sanilv hills. < )n llir
rvriiini; nt' .)id\ ■'■th wr ia;ii|i'd in npi'ii |iilir Wiiiiils ,it thr nmlh rlul
nt' this lakrlrl, a ln\rlv .'-aiidv lirarh rMrndiir^ lirt'iirr nur Irnls.
( )lir small, liarr, rnrkv island risrs mil nt thr rriitrr nt I hr rlrar walrr |;,,^.i,\ i-|:uul.
ot' ihr lakr, rniisistiiii,' nt a dark i;ray, thinly t'liliatrd t,'r.inilr-L;nriss
.strikinu' N. I") N\ . ami (liii|iin!,' at a liiiili aii;;lr, S. i'l W., intrrhrihliHl
uitli a linlit i,;ray cnaisr-yiainrd j,;ariietit'('fous liiotitr-f^iuiiite-gm-iss.
'
;ii;
\ril MIASCA I, AM-; AND CM IIJCII I I.I, lilVI'.U.
Cliil .1 irii.'
Ilvvillilii
\'ui'i;iti'i|i n
lllr Clllllp.l-
stii-.illi.
S.ni.l l.;ili'-~.
Ill ilii' ri\or, tliriM' c|iiiirt('rs of a milo iilinNr tlic lake, is a small isluuti
lit' similiir liii,'lilv .i;aiiu'l it'croiis ^^nciss.
A sIkhI (lisliiiici' alii)\(' this jslaii I, 1 lir ri\ it ( urns alniu^l al liulil
angles tuwanls lln' imri h run'.'n'asl , ami llir \aili'\', uliicli his liccii
II inou- aiiil i|('i'|i tVdiii the laki', licfniiics u iili' ami nicn'i' (lill'usc. The
wiilc >ltrt. Ii i,> luii iiiilrs ami a-lialt' Imiu;-. Xrar ils nnithri'ii cml tlif
, wi'sl hank lit' ihi' siirani is uNrrhiiii!; hv a hiirli niL;,Ui''l ilill ut' u'l'av
Uranili'-uiu'iss. inln laniinaii'J uitli liamU nt' hii,'hly tri rii^iiiuiis ami
(jiiarl/ilii' ynciss, in i;rniTal the laniinalinn is ni'ai ly hiiiizniilal, hut
ill ili'tiil it is iiiiirli ciiiiiiiricil.
In niiilh lalitmlc "ili ."i.'i'. lhr\alli'\ I urns shai|iU rasi w aril ami liai'C
rl ill's 111' Nam I ri-r In a hrii^ht dt'rinhly t'rrt on its nniilp'rii siilc. 'I'hf
\alli'y maintains thi-. rasiuanl Wiii'd inn t'nr tun miles, uiailually
ili'i-rrasim: Imlli ill wiiltli ami ilrplli, whilf lintli thr liillsiilrs and the
Imltniiint' till' \allry hccninc rnSiM-ril with iiniildcis. Till' slrram is
thirty li\i' I'crt wiilr, with a riirri'iii n|' three iiiile> an Imiir. I'mm I he
(•ml lit' this sireteli the ri\er ai;ain liirns tn a iiurt li iinit heasterlv
ilireetinn thruiiiih Inw lami, to the smith eiiil nt' (iwilliin Lake.
(iuillim K.ike is a lile.asant njieii Imily nt' ele.ar w.iter Ivilil,' in a imith-
aml smith ilireetinn, with a tiie.at 'st leiiu;th nt' li\e miles and alialt' ami
a ureatesl width nt' a little innre than a mile. 'I'iie eastern siinrc is
eeiierally low and sandy, tlimiLjli hcliiml an .ali.iiidnneil Iradinu |inst nt'
tile Hudson's I'.ay ("oiii|iaiiy are some rather liii,'li lii,'litly wooded hills
that seem to he eo\ered with Imiilders. Ileliimi the western and
north eastern shores arc smnew hat jirnmiiieiil hills nt' i^neiss.
'i'lie ( iw illim l!i\er (lows inio the imrth western end nf tlu> hike, hut
the eanne-roule leaves the lake at a low sandy heiieli at its northern
eiiil. and our eaiioes were earrieil for .'iOU yards on a sandy |ilaiii
ihrmiLth ii]ien wnods nt' small Itanksiaii |iim', tn the liank of the narrnw
winilini: St ream,
.\t t his portaire I li(> eonijiass w as fouml to iiave a variation nf "27
east.
.\l)o\ e ( Iw illim Lake, the iliininislieil st re.aiii is \erv eronked, w ind-
ini,; at llrst hi'tweeli low sandy w illnw en\ ered li,lliks, thrnlH;ll sw:illl[i
thinly wnnded w illi s|iruee and liireh. The li.inks i;radiiall\- rise tn
liei;d,ts of thirty feet. Iieiiii; enm|ioNed of st r.it ilieil sands, and at the
end of two ,'ind ;ilialf miles, mi'iisiired in a direet line ii|i the
\alley. the river is lirnken hy a rapid n\cv limilders, in whieli there is
a lnt,il limp lit .ihniit lifteeii feel, j'ast this r,ipid is a purtau'i' mi the
wost side •_',")()
i'>,'inksiaii pin
smiie nf whir
si line. I'"inm t
of a rieh 1ml
wards toward
liill lUI) feet
dulal illi; \ ert
also st rewii w
Solitude La
stream, is ;i i ■
wit h low e\ en
of sandy lieael
arnuiid it, luit
forest. The c,i
the cinoes and
I ."ill vards line,
wooded with sm
of the ri\er, re;
twenty ll\ e t'eet
from Soliliid
fnr three lni!e^
lifleen feet deep
w il h liu'lil i;'ieeii
.\t one point SOI
emisistiii;,' nf r
irreuiil^i rly I'olia
.\t the end nt
llnw I'rniii I he 111
earried im a in
pl.iiii liy the Mill
end nf t lie porta:
from live to eii;]
t wenty feet dee|
Al the west
diameter, wit ii \
lieliind whieli ai
lake, in iioi'l II la
elevation of 1 li."
(H'tween the ill
Min.i Aiii'K i!ivi;u.
■ n i>
west side L'liO yards Idii^. 'I'lic porla^c is t,liruiii,'li t liiii woods of sniiill
li.inlcsi.iii |iiiH', Mild over a slii;lit sandy laioll stl'cwn witli liouldcis,
sonii' ot' wliich ai'f of wlnlc saiidslniic. |irul)al)ly of Al liahasca sand-
stone. I'" Ton I till' tc)|) of (liis knoll 1 111' liviT is seen to How in I lie liottom
of a lifii liiit ralliiT siiallow (roiii;li, with roeky sides, exteiidini; north-
wards low aids Solil iide Lake. Soul h of I his knoll is the point, of a
hill IDO feet, iiiuh, <'oiii|ioseii of a coarse, red liiot ite j;neiss with iin-
diilatinit vertical fi liation strikiiii,' S. I'U !•",. 'I'lii! sides of this hill afe
also sti'Cwn with hoiilders.
Solitude liMke, a mile and a half north of this |ioi'tane on the same Snlitiulf
stream, is a rounded liod\- of clear water a mile and a half in length. "' "'■
with low e\en wooded shores, in front of wliieh are occasional stretches
<if sandy heacli. No houlders, or rock in ]ilace, are seen anywhere
around il, liiit in the liack^rouihl are hi^li roundnl hills covered with
forest. The canoe route traverses the lake to its northern end, whei'e
the canoe-, and i,'oods are kanded, 'I'hev are then carrieil hy a portage
l-~i(> yards I01C4 in a iioit h imrt Ica^lei'lv direct ion, over a sandy pl.iin
w IK II led with sin ill r.ank--iaii pine. This port .luc cuts across a lonii liend
<if the river, re.ichin^ it al a point w lieie il has a width of ahoiit.
t went V tiv e feel .
I'lom Solitude Lake the ri\er was t'ollowed in oUf canoes northvv ird
for three nii!es. as it wound in a very loiluous ehannel ten to
lifteen feet deep, across an alliio-.t level plain of tine vvhil e sand cov ereil I'l.eii <■(' liiif
■11-1 11 I I • 1 111 II 1. I • " '''"'■ ~:ni'k
Willi IiltIiI uieeii hclieii, anil thinly v\ led witli --mall l>aiiksi.in pines,
.\l one |ioiiil some low, rounded, roekv hills rise' .■iliovc the wcot liink,
<'i>nsi-.t iiii.f of r.itlier co.arse, riislv. rcildishijray liornlilende i;nei>s,
irrei;ul.irly loliat'd Strike S. To F..
.\l the eiiij of the ahove dist.ince. (Iwiliim Itiver, which continues to l.i.ue
I'roiii I he northiiorliie.ist.
W.is let!, and the c;ii|i
and I'oods were
liwillili
carried for a mile in .-i noil liw esiedy direii ion over 1 hi' level sandy
pl.iin liy llie Miiith Imik of a small Iriluilary lirook. Ne.ar the vve>t
end of t he port a^c the count ry lienins to rise ,1, little, and the lirook, lieri!
from live to ei^
t went V" feet del
it feel vv ide. III
svvitlly ill the hottom of a valley
II
At the west end of the ]ioriaue is a lake, :i third of a mile in Siuiill tiUi
diameler, wilii water of ;i li:;lil-l)i'ow n colour, and low weedy shores,
liehind which are sandhills thirty to forty feel in heiiiht. This small
111 noil II lal it iiiie .1 1
7, and west loii;^itude III? "_",•, ;iliii witii an
i\ south of the watershed
lak
elev.ation of 1 li."in feet ai
lietwci'ii the drainaiie basin of Churchill Kivcr, and that of Laico
love sea level, lies ju
Il.i-lil- .f-
l.lllil |".ll;r.'.
Saii.l I,
HmuiII UiU,
lill ..f
.iiM.i-
.p^ i>
ATllAltASCA I.AKi: ASH < ' II T Id ' II ri.l. liUKIi.
WatiT-iu il. Alliilliascii. l''riPin ll :\. ji(ii'l;ii,'C L.'()l) viinls Idiii; leads up a .slci]> mainly
.sldjiC t'dity !'('( t. lii,l,'li, acniss a saiulv iiili;('. ami inln a li i^iii sliapi'd dc-
prcssidii lit'ly t'ci'l (It't')i, ill tlio Imttniii ot' whii'li i> a small lala' of (.'Irai-
blue water, without, nutlet.
'i'liis lake, a little iiHU'e than a i|uarler ot' a mile in width, was
crossed in eanors to the southern end ot' another iiorta^e, I lllO yards
kuii;. The path ascends a slope fitly t'e.^t lii,i,di at one end, and descends
a similar slope at the other. In the middle it is over an irrei;tilar
countiA. with deep liasin shaped depi'e-sions and liii,'h hills, coinposed
ot' moderately line, wiiite sand, witlKUit pelihles or boulders. The north
end ot' the portage is in a. small yroNC ot' IJaidisian pine at the -oulli
end ot a laki! of clear water whicli (Hscliarges northward towards ( 'ree
Lak'c and Stone lii\er. Thus the two last |iortaj,'es cross i hi- heiulit
of land. i)ut no rock in jilace was seen in the \icinitv or lu'arer th;iu
the "liinitc knolls on the west hiink uf (iwillini Hiver.
Tl
Cn ' /I'iv' r (I lid l.iilf .
le lak'e north of the height of land lies anioiii^ woo(l:'d sandy
hills a hundred feet in heiv:lit. < 'n the mornim; of .'uly 1 ''>t h i h ■ i .tily
left camp amoni; tlic jiines at the south end of this lake, and li;i\ellcd
north-eastward for two-thirds of a mile across the lake to a marsh,
oxer which the canoe- w. ri' dra'ju'i d for a hunilred and lil'ty yards to a
sm.all stream, which was descended a (|uartei' ()f a mile between banks
frim,'ed with vellow water lilies, to .-iiKither lake with low marshv
shores, womled with small spruce, larch and Hanksian pine. ll lii s in
a north westerly direction, and is a mile and a third in length. i'rom
its north-western end ttows a winding' sti'eam thirty feet wide, and ti\e
feet deep, wiih a current of two miles and a half an hour, b' twecn low
marsln baid<s. at tirst well detlned. but afterwaids ver\' irre^iular and
broken. After llowinu' eastward for two inili's and a-lialf, the ri\cr
riuis aloiiu' the north side of a hill eoiiijiosccl of lari.'e boulders of led
L.'raiiite-i;i)eiss, while on the o|iposil(> side of the \, alley is a ridi,'(> of
apparently similar i;neiss in ]ila<'e. l*'or the ne.\l two miles and
three i|Uarters, the river is wide and indi'linite, in the midst of an
extensive marsh. ( Mi a low wnoded ridae composed of sand and
rounded ]iebbles, many of which are of while sandstone, the latitude
was found to be 'u 10 "il. The sides uf the \alley are steep escaip
,S:uiilv li ri;ui . inents of sand, rising to a sandy terrace eij^dity feet aliov(> the ri\cr, at
al.'out the same altitudi' as the siiminit of the height of land jKUtaiies,
In latitude oT 1 1 'M)" the \alley contracts ami the ri\er llow s be
tween liiyh clills of red biotito-jiratiite-i^neiss strikiiii,' .\. do W. The
lllt,'hest )ioints of
direction S. 70 N
After ])assiii^ t
on the sides of wl
the water, and
tween a liiimbei-
fresli-water spoii.
the ch'ar uatei' u'
islands,
Crei^ Lake is a
in a L,'(>neral north
foitv nine milt"
from Indians win
li.'is a total ai'c.'a
taken in oiien wa
fifty live to a hui
determined by ni
The temperature
ri.'i I''.
The course fol
its northern e.xti
lowini; descriptii
line of tr,i\
l''iiim till' moll
meter, i'- crossed
ill w idtll betweci
pw-c'd chielly of I
rather co.arse. •ci
( liir tirst cami
this strait, at tlr
hei-ht of I-J(l fe.
boulder of yiK'is!
on ,a smaller bcui
trending S. .'io
white sandstoiu'
niliceiit view l
surrounding ci
wooded with s
vision. In utlu
tvhheu. ] CMKI'. I.AKK. ■>'.• H
lii!,'li('sl points ot' the stirtact^ arc iiolislicd and t'iiin' 1 y sli'iatcd in a
(liroctioii S. 7(> W.
At'ltT passiiiL; lliinui^ii tiiis nicky uap, t he i'i\cr cnlci'^ an ii|icii ')asiii, < 'n.. I.aki'.
on till' --idi's i\( wiiicli arr sand tcrrarrs i-isiui; t wi'iily livi- tci'l alioNc
tlit^ water, and a mile and a halt' nciilli iit' llu' nap il passi'^^ lie-
twi'cn a n.inilit'i' nt' l<i\v li(ij.'^v i,-jlands into Cric l.akr. Many lar;^e
t'l rs!i-\vatri' sponj:i's ( .\f''i/r/itfi jhicin/i/in, Ijinii.) could lie seen throu'dl
t hr cli'ar ua'.cr u'fowin^' on sidinii'ii;f(l t w i^s and slicks Ijcsidc I licsc
islands,
Crcc T/dsi- is a laryc ('loni.'atc(l hody of pure traiisiiai'ont watnrlyint; .\ii;i.
in a ^;(>n(M'al north-east and soulli-sves! diiejl ion.wil li a. i,freatest lenj^tli of
fill ty nine mile-- and a wiihh as yet undelennineil, liiit sketches olitaiiu'd
from Indians who had I nivtillcd I'ouiid the l.iki', would indieale that it
has a tolalari.'a of almut font' hundred square miles. The soundings
taken in ojien water aloiii; tiie line of travel, i,'aM' depths varying froui
tift\' i'wr In a hmidied and liflv feet. The allilude of the surfaee, as
determined hy numerous aneroid reailini.'s, is 1 "i. ''ill feet ali()\e seadevel.
The teiiiperature of tiie water in llie open lake on •' tdy 14th was
ril) !•'.
The course followed from its soulhern extremity to its nutlet near ('d^n-c
its northern e.\tiemil\. was i;in('rall\ aloin;' its west siile, and the fnl-
lowin:,' liescript ion ;; plies exclusi\ily lo the country seen on this
line of 1 ia\
{''rum the moiilh of the ri\-er. a hay alioul a mile and adialf in dia-
meter, is crossed in a norlheiK' direct ion, to a trait a hundre 1 Narih
in 'Aidth lielween steep sandv liilN. The suiiinindinu' eounlrv is com-
|iw-ed ehielly of low rounded hills of sand, with occasional points of a S:iiulliills.
rallier co.use, ••eddish |,'ray yiieiss.
' >ur iirst camp <in the shore of the lake was pitched a mile east of Hill jit trneis
this strait, at I he fool of a hill of (oarse uray "iieiss, that rises to a
leinlit of I'JO feet ahove the water. ( tn th(> top of tlie hill is a largo
liouldei' of gliiMss seven feet loiii;, t he soutliern side of which is perched
on a smaller lioulder. I'nder it glacial grooves are si roiiglv marked,
treivtling S. .'io W. .Many of the other houlilers around the hill are of
wliiti> saiidsl(Mie. Since the hill is the highest in the vicinilv, a mag- .Sinii.uinliiitr
nilieent view may he liad from its summit, of tlie lake and the '"""">•
surrounding country. l'"rom easi to south, wide sandy plains,
wiioded with small liaiiksiaii ]iiiies, stretch away to thi^ limit of
vision. In other directions tliu country is composed of gently rouiidod
,11
10 I)
aiiiahasca i.akk anh (iiuiiciiiLi. inxKit.
M,i
liilis wdiidt'd uitli small [liiics. with iiccasidiial sandy ('sraipiiiciils
t'ac'iir.': Uir lake. 'I'lir lalic sIkhc is \fv\ irrc^'iilar, and six Mnall wiuxIimI
islands incal' the siK't'ac'c nf till' lilui'-u'i'i'i'M water. A few sniall
scatlficd ti'ct's (II wliitc hircli <,'iiiw hy tlic slioic, hut m' [uiiilar liad
lii't'u srcn sinvc Ifaxini,' Sdlitiidc l,al;i'.
The \arialion ni tin' cimiiiass was line drit'nninfd at ■_'•"> .'iU' I'/.
.\ mile and tlirci'-i|iiaiti'is ni)i'tii ol' this cainii is a i,'i(m|i nt' lince
snnll woiidrd islands, the most southerly ot' wliieli is cumiioscd nt a
fatljci' (Maisc. may, liii,'ldy t't'ls|iatliii' iiiotite gneiss, with, in plan's, a
modiT iti'ly well mil ki'd sinuous t'liliatiiin strii<iiii,' S, ."i.'i 1'. I'ai'i ot'
the island is coxcrcd wiili till, consisi !iij; ut' sand and liouldiTs, iiiaiiv
ot' whu'li arc ot' sand--tiini'. '{"lie surt'aiM' ol' the i;neiss is .^niooihed,
and shows j;laeial urimx inu- I rendiiii;' S. iT) W.
'i'hree iniK's and I lirer i|uarlers in a direrlinn N. ."ili \'„, (i\cr ojieii
water a\eiauinu' 1 !'• teet deep, aeinss the iiioulh ot' .a deep liav, is a
point on the west shoie. liehind which is a hill I'Jil teet hiL;h, tlie MJiith
Mill "f L'li' i— . side of uhiell is cuniposed ot' i;lieiss verv similar lo that sei'ii on the
i^lanil. while the iop an i ea^l --iile iire eom]ii)'-ed ot' sand ;iii<l houlih'rs.
'J'lie laki' here eontr.iets to a widlli of .■dioiit i hii'e (piariers ot' ji mile,
and hiliiiid tiie eastern shofe is a hill, t'oiaiied. .apparently, ot' gneiss.
These liills of gneiss, on liolli sides of this strait, appear to form p.irt
of a rid^e that runs N. >>'> W . across the country, and lhe\' were the
la-t expii^iires i.f Ari'haaii rock seen, on this line of tr;i\cl. ■>oiiili of
the nort hern -liores nf ['.lack and .\tlialiasca Lakes. Itetueen tli^'-e two
jilaees the cuiinlrv is undiilain iiy .\lhaliasea sand--toiie. ( 'ree
l,;ike. iheii'fore. adds one more to the list of the laiLTe liodiesi,f w.aler
uhicli, in i 'anada. lie al'inu the line of contact of the comparal i\ e|\-
unaltered I',al,eo/oic and th ■ hii^hly allered .Vrch:vaii rocks.
I'\il' the iie.xt two miles, the West shore is low and is protecteil hv a
wall of iiiunded lioiilders. lie\ond wliich our cour-e tinned north west-
ward to 1 he north shore of a low island, wooded with lil lek s|irtiee and
hireh. the imint of which is piled six feet hirh with houlders of white
sandstone, A meridian altitude of the sun ohserved here ^axc the
laliti.ih' as .".7 1'.)' .'it) north.
.\ mile and three i|ii,irt('rs across optMi water brouiflit us to a Ioiil;
low point of Luid surrounded hy houlders of sandstone. ISuuth of this
line lii:,'h clills of sand were seen to skirl the shore, .Miotit tlie middle
ll'i|ii.>i iif I he distance, a depth of 1 .'lU feel w ;is found. h"inL;- I he deepest sound-
s' •iiiuhng. . I • ' ■ I 1 1 1 1 ' I 1 , ,
uij; ohlame I in I he lake, thouuli periiaps I he w.ater mav he much di'eper
fartlier from land.
NMithcvii
lliiiit 'it
.\li'li.i;ili
l.'cKv
l'"rom I hi-- si(
I'ne miles ih'ep,
of till, to tlie w I
hasca sandstone
The sandstone
from t w o to six
not \cr\ I'oiMpac
are 'uoderately
heeii fossils, hut
tlie rock is p
s. .■;."! W.
l'"rom I his dill
i|iiaiiers, past so
iioulilers, to I he
rain, on the c ■. u
wooded with sm;
A third of a
ispatinosv 1 L'O fe
lo|ii,'est diaiiiet<'r
the \ ic'iiity. \l>
feet in w idl li, is (
coiihlcs iir ti a,i,'iiu
rises from 1 he le\-
slii,'litly for iwi.
plain. The iioill
similar iidee, wl
simili^r i-haracier.
'I'lie two ancici
1 he lake, .are also
;ip]ii oachiiii; I he I
lint il a c(j|jipaci |
.■i scarp six t'eci h
height of I he low
of the L.Kc. Ahi
strewn wit h hoiil
!i,' :. of Well roiiiH
shown at t he nor
arched hcacli rid
.No signs of till
weM' seen iiruiind
( I!i;k i.akiv
II I)
Finiii tills stony ]Hiiiit we iii,'iiiii crossed llic iiioutli of ii luiy aliout
(i\i' Miilts (liH'ji, in ii (liii'il ion N. I") W., |i,ist scvci.il ishuuls ajiiiaicntly
ot' till, to the west slioiv ot' llie lake, where a rlill' of lii;tit fed Atlia- AtliiiluMn
^;i:iit»tipiii'.
li.isca sandstone rise's Iwenty-olie feet iihove the level of tlici water.
The sandstone is hoii/onlally sti'atitled in heds Viiryiiii; in tliicUness
from t w o to six inches, and often shows (list in<t, falscheddiii!,'. It is
not \ery eoni|iarl, and i|iiile unaltei'ed, and t he indi\iihial (jilart/ plains
iii'(! moderately wil roiindeii. Some soft calcareous sjiols lia\(,' Jiossihly
l)een fo'^sUs, hut they now show no trac ■ of structure. The surface of
the rocl-- is polished and marked liy(.^ tinci glacial striie trendin;;
s, ;):i \v.
From this clifV tlie sliore was followed northward for a mile and three-
ipiarters, jiast some luw eiirl's of sandstone, and |i(iints surrounded liy
iioulders, to the hoi tout of a h.iv where eaniji was pilclied, in he:i\y
rain, on the ( ■ 'iiinL; ol' the 1 lih of .lidy, on a le\-el sandy plain thinly
wooded with small jlanksian jiines.
A thirl <if a mile north of camp is a narrow e|on,i;ated hill or N|.:itiiiii\v.
ispatinow 1 L'n feet liii,di niodilied liy sul)^i>i|uenl wa\f aclion. with its
lolii^'cst dianc'lcr St retching; S. lio W"., parallel to the L;laiial striie in
tlie xic'nity. Ilssummil, which is rounded and from thirty to sixty
feet in width, is comjioved Imth of luunded ai;d njorc or le <s aiiuiil.ir
iiiMilcs or tia^'inents of sandstone iudie(ld''(l in >and oi- ruck-liour. it
rises fi'om t he le\ el of t'le jilain lo the south we>t, and I lien un adatini;'
^iiu'hiiv ii"f twii hundred yariis, drops moi-e smldenly ai;ain to ihc
plain. The north-west side sjoprs to .a valley, heyond which isanothi'r
-imilai' iidne, wiiile in the di^laiire are olheis, proliahly also of a
si!nil;(r rharaed'r. I'he soul h-wi -t side is rat her ahrilpl.
The I w o anricnt shori- liiii -, marked liy the-andv terraces siuitli of Ain'iiut .-hmv
1 he lake, are also disiinci ly shoWii .'11 t he side of ihis ispatinow. I )n "" "'
.ippro.ichiiii; the hdl from camp a j;i'ntlv risini; sandy plain is cihsm.iI,
until a compact pavement of larne sandstone lioulders is reachiMl, with
a si-ar|i si.\ feet liii;h hehind it. The I'oi t of this M-arp, niarkini,' the
height of the lowest old shore iine. is forty feet al)o\e the picsent level
of I he L.KC. .\ hove I his -carp t he slop.' is sli'eper and is rat her I hick ly
strewn wilh houMcrs, At a liii^ht of seveiily feel ahove the lake, a
!' of well rounded colililes marks anotlu r distinct shore. It is hesi
shown at the nortli-eiet end of the iiill, lound whieli it curves as an
arched heach ridn'c of water wiirn pelililcs.
No siijiis of the upper shore lini' at approximately the same altitude |l\|„.i.('i'(.,.
uf: e seen around an\' of the man\' hills farther north. There is .lo '■■'''•■
IJ I- \lll\l;\>( A I.VKI, \S|i ( MM.M llll.l, iii\i;ii.
hiiid ill tli;U ilircil iiii) siilliriciil Iv 1i'l,'Ii lii Ini'iii the iicul licrii slmri' nt a
laki' si'M'lily t'l'cl ,iliii\c 111!' Ir\cl o, llir |ircNC'iil hikr, and lliiii' si'ciiis
\i> liavi' Im'cii MTV lillli' uiir|iiii,Lj lit' I if I'i'iisl silirc llic i;lari il liliic-i.
Il ,\i>iilil I lii'icluii' sri'iii Miuil'Tati'ly ccitaiii that u c lia\ c lnTc |iiirl i(.iis
(it' till' aiii'icnl ^l..iiT liiir ol' a lake llial lay lirluci'ii llif t'miil nl' the
Kcrwatiii gkicit'i' not mtv t'af to tlic imrtli ami tin- lii,:,'lii'r laiul In
till' siiiitli. At its liinhcst Ntayc it must liaxc disi'liar^ril user tlic lirii^lil
ut' kind -uitli lit' Cici- l/ll^l•, llic ancient ri\rr llnwini; dnun llic wide
\ailcy in llir linllniii ut' wliit'h imu winds llir Mudjalii-k l!i\iT.
I''iiiiii llic ranip near the t'lmt nf this hill, uc |iadillcd S. ;ln I-',, for a
nii.'c. III a lii.v jminl, and t hm tor a mile and a ([iiaiter cast u a id aemss
the iniiiitli lit' a dce|i hay Idanuthcr low |iiiint , |iiled aiiiuiid with an
iec-hii\id wall ut' sandslune Imiddeis ti\c I'cel in height.
^1 ^i.^^i,- j-'ruin lhis]iuinl nurt h cast ward. I he Hurt li wcs; .-Imieut' the lake i^
•I'liilil'i"- yeiicially thickly strewn with liunlders. with neeasiunal luw hilUut'
huiililers a shui t di>tani'i' iidanil. At a plaee where ue sl(i|i|icd t'ui'
luneli in null h latitude •">" -■> (HI a L;ruve ut lai'.;e I'anksian pines
ci)\('i> a sinily jiiain in ticint ut' a hill ut hiuildcis, and under the trees
were uruwiu;;' niaiiy lluwcrs fi the hcautit'iii 'adic^' sli|i|icr (/'.'//''''
/iii/iiiiii iii'diili, 1^.), caUiiii;' tu mind the Ium'Iv wuuidainl yhnh's then
I'ar tu the suiiiii. Halt' a mile farther nurtli, a hill I'lli feel hiL;h rises
l)i,(lKiM il\l<e. fruiii the Clitic ui the ualcr. The central iiurtiun lA the hill consists uf
a dyke ahuut Imh hundred feci wide. i\<i a cuai-e li^lit ^rccll iii-alilic
dialiasc. a|i|iarentlv riinninu' S. li'i W . Kxaniiiicd inieruM'u|iieallv.
this lock is seen to consi.^t of jiia^ioclasc, much of uliieli is ahcri'd
to cah-itc and ^clil•itc ; horiililcndc, which has |iriilial)lv resulted fro'u
the dccoMi]iosiiion tif auLtite, and some of which is altering; to chlorite ;
liioi ilc in >iii:dl amouiil ; i|uart/ in t;raiio|i|iyre sli iid ure ; and i I men it e.
altcrinu to Icucuxcnf.
Alli:ili:iM'.
-»ii'Ui.iii,.
Tic hill is I hick I v cii\ere(l with lioulders, I nit near its summit, al out
twenty feel of liiuhly altered (liiikish Alhaiia--ca sandstone is "\]iosed
north wi'-t of t Ir,' dia'iase dyke. it dips al an aniilcof four deurces
awa\' from the dvkc. a, id hecomes lc-.s altered as it recedes from il.
1'lie caiiues here left the --hure and struck uul inlii the lake in a
north easterly diieciiun ainoiiL,' a n u n il ler uf hi'.;h thinly wouded islands
uliich. seen from the end. appear as sh.ir|ii\- pointed cones rising from
the water, and seen trom the side as dill'usc ilonies. Unc of these
islands, at a distance of three miles and a half fiuiii the trapiUkc.
rriis|i.ci Hill, was named rrospecl Hill. It is a narrow iiill risinjr to a iiciiiht of
17U feet aliovc the lake, and as a depth of seventy feet of watcf was
found iioi very
J 10 feel. it II
;,'lacicr last iim
for a widl h of
stand, while t hi
ill" seen it is c'l
i;ra\cl. It sin
well walerworn
and like the hi
iiills around an
dcsci'ihed on p:
i'"riiin t he lup
and I 11 sunuui
open [ilain si lel
to he studded w
nature, more or
a liiiihcsl point
tot he course of
undcrlyin'4 rock.
I he lower aicas
surrounding; iiii
ha-ty e\annnal r
licull to ilclermi
conditions that ^■
may lie here lirii
tiatheriiiL; u'loiiiu
^outli w estward,
receded from tht
distance nurt h o
liV ii\per('ree
around t he soiitl
dually ret iriii^ \i
Would lluw un i
narrow crc\assc'
of tlie adjoining
liy the stream '
walls. .\s the
remain as narn
aiiv external si
formal ion uf the:
water, would sei
were seen, while
(KICK I.AKK.
i:; i>
t'liiind mil \('i'y fur tVinii il, it may ln' said to liavc a total liciLtlit ot'
-10 t'cct. It liciids N. "i") !•;., |iarall('l to tlir direct ion in wiiii'h tlie
H'lacit.'r last iimvcd across this region. 'J'lic sinnniit is nearly Icxcl
t'or a widlii ot' a iiuiidri'd t'cct, liic sides arc as ^lee|i as liic earth will
stand, while the ends round dnwii c.isiK- to the slmrc. As tar as can
he seen il is i'iiiri|iiiscd entirely ot' sand and lioiilders, uilhoiil inund d
L;ra\('l. It shows no si;,ni of si rat ilieatinn or ol' licioL; coniiM)-;ed of
well watcrworn inaleiiil, Imt, consists ratheiof loose, unassorted till,
and like the hill near the lasi caTn|i, and hnndieds of ollici' similar
hills around and fart her noil h, il is .i I \ pica I e\ain|ile of t he cle\a lions
dcsci'ilicd on |iai;c L'.") as is|jatinows.
r'roiii the lop of Prospect hill a beautiful view niav bo had of t lie lake ^'i'"' "' ^'i''''
l,;U<e.
and ih suii'oundin'4 country. Toward the northwest, a wid(> almost
open plain >t n'lclii s away towai'ds W'hilelish Lal;e, i'\-i'i- Lakeissi'cii
to be stucldi'd wilh thinly wcioilcd islands, all apparently of the same
nature, more oi' le>s oval in shape, and roundinu uji finm each end to
a hiiihcst point near th(> middle. All lie in the same diiccl ion jiarallcl
to the course of the la->t j^laciation, and none --how anv outcrops of the
iinderlyin'4 rock. These ispatinows are seen to be more numerous on l-i'.iiim.u--.
till' lower areas, now co\eied by thi' walci' of the laki'. than on the
surrounding higher land. In the alisence of all'.' sections, and on the < ''imlitiiMis iit
l"llll'l'l"M.
iia^t\' e\aininalion which the writer was able to ni.ikc, il is \-ery dil-
lii-ult lo determine the exact mode of format ion of Ihc^c hilU. but i he
condition-- that seem lo lia\e jne^ailed at the time of their formation
mav 111' here briellv --I iti'il. The ulacici-, spieadini,' out fiipin a f;reat
Uathcrinu ,1,'roiind in the \icinity of N'alh kyed i/d<e, was here nioviii;;
south westward, parailel to the loin; axis of ( "ree Lake. Its front had
receded liom the .\rch:i'an rocks to the south, and was. therefore, ^ome
distance north of the present height of land, and its foot w a- washed
liv llvpi'i'Cree Lake, wlios" strands are >o distinctly marked
around the southern end of < 'ree Lake, 'i'nw.irds its front this yra-
du.'illy rcliriiiL; glacier would be much rcdiici'il in thickness. Sli'cams
Would llow on ils surfaci'. bill when these streams jilunccd into tlie
narrow cre\asse-. or niouliiis the water wcuild at once reach the |c\c|
of 1 he ad joiniiiL; lake, the current wmihl cease, and the material c.ivried
by the stream would accumulate in one place belwecn the n.irrow
walls. As the walls melted away these accunr.dat ions would thus
remain as narrow cloiiiiatcd ridges of unassorted material, wit hout
anv exieinal sImh of stratilication. The above explanation of tlio
formal ion of lliese hij,di ispatinows bet ween narrow w alls of ice, in ipiiot
waler, would seem to iip]ily throu^^hout the north wln'rever thcsi hills
wcT'c sei'ii, whili- wliei'e the water from the glacier had a free <'ourse
' i I:
i I'l
I h
\rilAllVM A I AKM AMI ( III IfCIIII.I, l;l\i;ii.
S:,u.lllll
I, iU ^I..llV
CM I.'.-.
«.U|ll>tll|M'.
liiwaid- Imwit i,'i(Min(l, ridnc-' nt' ihi- cliariu'tcr do imt st'cii In liaxc
liiTii t'lii'iiii il, anil wlii'i-c llii'waliT llcwi'd t'lrcly lirlwffii icy .\alU,
cskci's wi'i't' in'iiiluci'd, sonit' iiiauiiiliii'iil rxaiiijili's ol' wliicli may Iicm'cii
ill tlic cciiiiii ly i'm tlitT iKirili.
l''MUr mill-- nmili ca'^t nl' l'riis|ii'i-l Hill, caiiiii was pil i-licil on t lii>
cavl >i(li' lit' a ihiiily unodrd ^aiuly island, at llir t'lmt cii' a --iinilar hill,
si.\iy-ti\i' t'i'ct lii.iili, tlic sniMinit n( wliidi was tiiii'Uly strewn with
tiuiildcis iif sainUtoiif. 'I'lic \ariali(in nt' tile coniiiass at tliis platf was
diii'finini'il as Jll .'10' fast.
TIm' next inciininu llic jiuirncy was conl iniii'(l in the sanir iKirlli-
caslcrh' dirirlinii, across the lake, hclwrcn llii' nunn'roiis island--, on
niaii\' ot' wiiii'li fuse siinil.ir nariou hills. .\i a!)oul nin • inilrs iin N.
latiiudc.")? ■-'•'i' !• ") W( sto|i|i('d t'or luiirh at a rather liiu'li |ioint of a
laryf i-.lan(l, lieliind which is a hill of loo c sand sixty feet hiL;h, with
,1 f.u lioiilders si'attered over its sides ami siiminit. lieyond it are
other similar hills, with l>asin-lil;e de|iressions .amoim them. Similar
hills a^ain stretch aw,i\- to the nurlh eastward ,iiid form i--laiids in the
lake. The\ h.-ivc \eiv mmh the ;i|i]iearaiice of heiie,' wind formed
dunes,
l'"rom this |) lint we jiaddlcil in a direction N. |0 \'.. for two miles
ai.'il a-h;df .•u'ross ojieii water, lo lln- west shore, al a |ioint |iilcd wiili
liiPllldcIN of saiiiUtoiie. 'The ^rcatcsl deptll of w.iler t'oiind wln'li cross-
in IJ' I he lake he II' w as TJO feet. The character of t lie conn I iv had now
i'haiiL;i i|. 1 he i>|ial iiiow s ;ind iiiimeiiiiis islands liaxiiii; heen li'fl liehiiid :
1)111 low >!onv rid^'i's were still to he seen, the kind li-iie..; in a mod
eralelv iCLiilkir slojie to a height of aliolll ciu'h'V feet, aliove the water.
'J'his ui.adilallv declines to the north-eastward to ,'i hcli;ht of forly led.
The shore in fronl of this slo]ic is irremilar. with low slon\ ipoinls.
The Lake here contricts to a w idl h of alpout, h.ilf a mile, lint whether
llie ea'-t side ol the n.'irrows is ;i laii;e isl.-iinl or the main east shore
w.is not defeiinined.
< In ihc w<".t --liore. at the north end of the strait, there is an ex-
posllle alio\e the ciIl;!' of lie water of three feet of I hick-1 icdijcd soft
white .\thaliasca s.ihdstipne. 'I'he ]irinci|ial lines of si r.it ilical ioii .-i re
hori/.oiital. Imt: in [ilaces a fal-e-heddiiiij can he detecleil. The suif.ice
is smoothed and shows yjaeiai LCi'ooves ti-eiiiliic^ S. 1 ."i \\ . This is the
third and last ex|iiisiire of sandstone >cen on ( 'rei' Lake, Imt the L;en-
e:-,d a|i|icaraiicc of the adjoining,' country would indicate that it is ,dl
underlain liy simil'r rock.
I'"()ur miles N. '2i> I), from this sandstono outcrop, and a iiiilo soutli-
wesi, of the outlet of the lake into C.'ree l!i\iM', wt; caiiijed <m a sandy
I'lain anioiiLi tl
was a low rise I
of reddish e.n n,
iaii {,') schist,
('hiireliill ilive
loiiiidcil grains
emits a shar|i lii
llere !.'a\e the |;i
Whelc ihc < 'l
alioiil L'nn yards
sinall lianksiaii
witli a cmreiit f
fra'^mcni ■> of .-,;i
of a loni.; rapiil, 1
descent of from i
Near the head ol
stone is seen on
i-' com|iosed filiiii
a mile fart her do
feel of hori/oni a!
s.ilmon colour.
• Illsl iieloW il, is I
l.iri,'e niimlier of 1
\ CIV few houldel
Half a mill' fiiitli
aliiu|il walls of s,i
o\ erhane'ini; sides
foam. 'I'lie sand
flesh fracture, hi
sandstone is a elill
siirroundin;,' couii
coin|iosed of roll;.'!
The r;i|iid is a \
t I'ackcd with a lit
of I he swift ness (
irree-iilarily of th
it is dillieult to ol
catch hetween t h
ascend t his ri\er,
ascended il in I hi;
( hie of t he caiK
feet and lei's wen
■■]
r\t\:K iMVKi!.
1.". i.
|i|.iill miiiuiil; lliiii wikmU lit' lluiksiaii |iilir, IIidU^Ii lii'liiliil I lie ciliili
was R low lisc tliickly strewn with liimldi'is. Aiiinni; tlicsc iiic many l''"iiMii-.
of I'cddisli i;aiiu'lif('iiiiis and L.'iay !,'ni'iss, ami ot' ((niiipai't l;ici'ii Huron i
ian (.') ^^lli^l. No liouldiTS .ot' liincst<pnc iiad iiccn sfcn sinci' IimnIml;
Ciniri'liill itivcr. 'I'lic sand on tlic iicacli iici'i' is . iMnposi'd cit' w ell
founded ijcains of i|iiarl/ of \ri\ regular si/e. W'lirn walkc'd on i( Mii-h:,| -:iimI
emits a sliarp I'iiiu'in;,' noli- A nieiidiiin alliiiale of tin' siin ol>-,er\ei|
liere ua\ e 1 lie lal il tide al 'u I '_' .">•>".
W'liei e I he < 'ree l!i\ er llou s from I he nctrl h end of ( 'lee (,ak-e it is ( 'i,.,. Ilivri.
alioul L'nil yards wiile, with sandy liottom, and low hanks wondi d wil h
small I'laidcsian [line and spruee. The si ream soon heeonies vei'y ia|>id,
with a einaent of finm six t ■ eiL;hi miles an hoiiro\c'r a lu'd of hmken
fragment s of sandsl one. Six niiles 1m 'low I he lake ue i each ed l he head
I'f a loni: ra|>id, known a- llawk i!a|iid. in whieh the liverhasa lolal Ihiwl^ l!;>{.i<l.
deseenl ot from (hirly lo forty feet in a distance of ahoul two ndle^.
Near thi' head of I he rajiid a small exposure of white Imri/ontal sand-
stone is si'en on the east liank, while the low plain to the ncu'llieast
is eomp<ised almost entirels' of roui;h ina^Ncs of this sandstone. Ilalf
a mile farlliei' down, on I he same hank, i^ an e^eaipment sliowinn' ten
feel of hori/onlalK' heilded, hard, coarse i^rainei I sandstone, of a liuht,
salmon eoloui'. Its surface is well polished hut without L;laei,d siria'.
Just ijelow it, is a elilV thirty feel hiuh of iinst ra.l ilied till, holdinu' u
l.irye numher of i»adder> of sandstone inihedded in a matrix of ^and.
\'ery few honldei-, of gneiss anil noneof lluionian ineks were pr<'senl.
Ilalf a mile fuither down, the liver rushes in a wild torrent lietwceii
ahrujil walls of saiuUtone ten feel in liei^hi, ami ar(uuid the \ertieal or AiImIui-i'ii
o\erhaiit;in:,' sides of llawk Island, which stands up in the iiudst of the -'"I'l-t"!!'',
foam. 'I'lie sandstone is coarsegrained and well stratitied, while on
fre^h fracture, hut wc.ii lierini,' to a lii^ht hrown colour. Ahovc the
sandsloiK.' is a clilV of till twenty feet in heii,dit, risiiii,' to the level of t he
siirroundinj,' country. 'I'lu' llood-pluins of the rivciiu'iir the rapids arc
composed of rou;,'li liiMl.en mas.scs of sandstone, uploaf(K>t in diameter.
The ra]iid is a lony; and h.iil <uie, w ilhout .any ( haimel It cannot he
tracked with a line and wadin^in I he water is very dillicult on .iciount
of t he swift ness of i he (airrent, the sluirpness of the stones, and the
irrei.'ularily of theslonv hars. I'addlin^ is i;eiierally im|iossil)le, ami
it is dillicult to oliiain ;i propel' Nct for the poles, ,as they slip dou n and
catch lietwi'cn the larue stones. < »n this accoiini the I ndians rarely
ascend this ri ver, our I 'hippew vans I ellini; us ih.it hut one man h,id
ascendeii it in the ji.ist seven vears.
( Ine of I hi' canoes had heen hadiv hroken in I he rapid. ,a mi I he men s < ';iii. » .In. -Ki ii.
feel .and leL;s were cut with \\ .idini,' ov er the sh.irp stones in t he u ,ater.
ill'
Dl i>
.\1II.\IIAM'\ I.VKI'. \M> lllllti 1111,1. lflVi;i!.
Mor:iiiiii'
hilN.
Cliiiriic'li 1- Ml'
niiiiil.s.
\\ I' t licirt'iirT caiiiiFt'il a mil'' ln'liiw ihc ra|iiil, aiiiniiL, scatlciiMl
llaiik-iaii |iiii('s <iii a sandy plain hm llic west liaiik iit' llw i'Init. Scmn'
low liills ill till' \i(iiiity arc n)\ itimI \vi(li lunililris. Into tlic lioltmii
(it'll little lia\ near tin- i'aiii|i a small sticaiii, tw I'lity 'im' tVi't wide ai. 1
tlii'ci' t'lM't tl"fj), with a ciiiiciii of ji milt' an Imitr, lluw.s tViim llic MUitli-
wc-i.
For si'Nci'al mill's In'luw ijic iiioinli nt' lliis Innul;, tin' iImt at tiiiirs
cNpanils into wiilc i|iiirt si rciflirs, and tln'ii iiishrs dnwn lu'a\y stony
iii|iids, lluwiiii,' tliniuijli an iindiilal inu' sandy cuiinl ly. At a distani'i"
ot'c'ijillt inilrs lii'low till' liliiuk .ilid alinilt a liiilr lirliiw a sliai |i lii'lid In
till' wi'st. .six fi'cl ut' siiiiilar pink luiii/.inital sand.stum' is i'\|i scil mi
'lir west liaiik. .\ sliiifl distaiirr licliiw tlis sanilsliiiii', llir lii;litly
lulliiiL; sandv I'liiiiitrv is Irlt lii'liind, and llir imw iinrM'ii suit'ari' liscs
in iiTi'uiilar iiiin'ainii' hills ot' Imnl'li'is a liundird iVct in height. 'Mi
tlu'sidi's lit' I lii'si' hills sipinc small aspen pnplai's ^luu , the tilsl that
had lii'i'ii seen iiniih lit' till- lirit;ht of l.ind. 'riicsc moiainic hills ion-
tiniii' tor a shorl di^lamr, and then llii' niorr sandy lountry is airain
ciilrrril.
h'or twi'iity miles the heavy rapids smceeil eai'li other in ipiiek
siiceession. 'I'liev are all very similar ill I'haiarter. 'I'll.' stream lirst
hiTomes \-erv narrow and suitl. otieii uilli a eurri'iit of irii or tweKe
miles an lioiir. .nid then irrailiially e.xpands, iinlil it is spread thinly
over. -I wide lull of i;ra\e| and lioiilders, o\er which it is almost in
varialilv nccc^sarv to wade, and ..'r.ispinM the canoe liv llie gunwales.
\l,,,,ii,,, ,,, lift it sloulv aloii'.'. 'I'lie ii\er iiou here llows in a deep \ alley. thoUL'h
•'"'■>• the liinks are mostlv com]iiised of easilv eii sihle s.-ind ami sandy idl,
which Would he ijuicldy carried down hy the impeliioiis ciirrenl. 'I'lie
reasnn tli.al .al onn' sUL':;esls itself for the aliscni f \al|i>ysin this, as
l!i'a.'<nio'i'-ucli «'<'ll iis in most of the other ri\er.s in the far north, is that ilie ice
sheet has liut conipar;it ivcly recently retired, lea' inu' the siirf.icc free
to he remodelled liv the streams thai now llow over il ; Iml il must
he hoinc ill mind that the si rciiiis arc fro/.en over for mo.,1 of the \ear.
and when l he ice lircaks up in carl \ summer il slio\c- I he hoiilders and
loo-e mas-e.. (if rock into com|iacl limilder w.alls .aid pavi'inenis in the
hank and lied of ihe stream formiiiu' "Url'.ices t hat resist stream erosinii
alnio-t aselVectually as the solid rock itself.
In iiorih lai iiuiie .")S On' oil ' a low ('\]iosine of similar stratilied
sandstiiiie mav he seen on the west hank near the foot of a r.ipid, and
in lalitmle .'"i."^ ."i' ."ill, clitls six feet hiL;h, of precisely similar co.arse
sandsloiie I'orm the cast hank. .Midwav li Iwien t hese t wo oiilcrops,
rounded li:lls of sand, from liftv t^iei^ditv feet lii'di, rise on each side
alwciii
ot the ii\ I r.
Ilyper-lllack I.
sticmii of hii
streiim from tl
w mled i^l.inds,
slwiliow eliillilie
camp was piti
miles hclow the
lerracc. A ine
.'i.s S' III) ".
'I'lie next III
w hen we w ere
mile III lenu'lii,
hanks to lieinlii'
ill the foot of ,■
liiiML;rely w omlci
il to 111' compose
of rollini.' stoin
up I lie st re.iai,
I'lom I he sani
course in .a liiil'I
in the hill lolii of
.\l the foot of ih
mouth of l!apid
lalilude as ."iS |-
feel u ide. llow in;
'I'uo miles and
pe.it rise on tlir
lilt tor a coiipli
liioileralel\- deep,
of the surroumlii
sterile hills of hii
In appidximal
t liree miles in lei
Hills of hoiilders
on each side, and
f dlen from lioth
row, wliili' the lo
of this rapid, ,is t
.scai'iied hank t ui
rid.i: i:i\i:i{.
I i>
lit' till' ii\ir, iinrtiii'^lv i'c|iri'-i'iil in;; iliinrs un :iu jiiniriii slmrr nt' Aiirimi
llyiK'r-lllai'k l.iikr. Jiisi Inflow ilic Ihwit rlill', f.ittle ('rrf l!i\iT. a "'
, , . , . , ... . I.iiili' ( 'ill'
.slii'iuii (it ni'owni.'ili wiitci', witli a .slnnis,' I'lirri'iil, jcoiih thi- niaiii liivn..
strciiiii tVoiu till- soutlicast. it^ iiiniitli hciii;; liiildcii liy many low
w ciili'il i-laiids, wliicli lirrr liit'al< tlir ('ri'c l!;\t'i inln nniiirriiu> .swit'l
sliallnw I'liiiiini'Is. ,\f'ti'r a Icm;,' ami lia/aiduus d ly ot' iiiccssaiit toil,
laini) was |ill(licd <iii t lie I'vcninu' of •! uly I'Hli on tlw cast liank. two
mill's lii'iow till' moiitli lit' l,it I If Ci ri' liixcr. at tin' luil ot a low -^andv
tcrraiT. A liii'i idian oli-<i'i'\,itioii oil .Mtaii' L;a\ r llic Lililndr licri' as
A.S ,^' UU ".
Till' iirxl inorniiij^, we liad hciii in oui' canoi's lint a tiw miniltfs
wlii'ii wi' \M'ic in till' middli' ot' a ili'i'p heavy rapid I hiri' i(iiarii'rs ot a
mile III li'iiLjtii, at llii' liottoin ot' whirh sinily tci'i arcs ri-i' on hot li
lianks to heights o|' I'orty t'l'i'l alio\i' tin- rixi'i'. Nim' iiiiirs Im'Iow ramp,
at, the foot, ot' a similar rapid, the Irrracr is >-lill t'o'ty 'fi'l lii'^h, and
nu'.n;ri'lv uoodrd uilh Miiall liank^iaii piiii'^. A sr.-irprd t'.'irn shows S:iiiil i-i'iii|i-
1 ' 1 .■ -,* I I rii I- ' . Ilirats.
It lo hr loiiipiiM'il ot stratitiiil siuid. I lie sur rounilini; coiMilry ronsists
of lolliiiLr ston\ hilU. I III' aimular mas.ses of fock, so juovalcnt liii,difM'
ui> llii' stream, lirini; no Ioniser srcn.
{■'riiin till' smid r-rarpmi'iils. ihr rivrr takrs a m'it slraiiihl '.^I'nrr.-il
I'oiirsi' ill ,'i iiorlli norl hi' isirrly diiTriion, h'twi'i'ii lou mar-hv liaiiks
in till' hoiiom of a xallcy a third of a mile widr and forty fi'i'l deep.
At till' foot of this st ".liLjIit iiiursi'. and a i|uarl('r of ;i mi'.i' aliovc the
iiioiilli of l!a]iid li\i'r. a iinriilian oliscrv at ion of tlir mih ^a\i' iIh'
lal it iidr as ."iS I'. !'•_'. iiapiil I! ivia' is a swifl shallow >tr('ain. ^rvcnl v l>':ii'i'l liiM r,
fi'i't u idr. llowiiiu' from the cast.
'i'wii mill's and a liaif hciow lli • inoutli of llajiid Hi\iM', low clill's of ( 'liir~ of |iiiit.
piMt risi' on \\w wi'st hank of thr rivrr, hrlow which the hanks aic
lilt tor a roiipic of miles. 'I'licn hc^ins a scries of he "v. lliouuh
moderately deep, rapids, si paraled liy stretches of i|uii't water. .Much
of the surrounding' eountiy is a sterile sandy ]ilain. varied w itii cipially
sterile hills of houlders.
In iippioximalc latitude ."iS :j^ , the cano. - eiilercil ;i heavy rapid
three miles in lentil, in which the ri\cr has a fall of .iliout forty t'eet.
Hills of houlders from a hundred to a hundred and liflv feet hiuh rise inn.; ,,('
on each side, and the lied of I lie st re> ii is formed of Imulilers that havi
fillen from lio'ili side--. Tlic upjier | art of the rajiid is dce|i and n,ir-
row, while the lower stretches are wide and shallow, .iiisl at the f(K>t
linllMrls
lit this rapid, as the ri\er expands to ijuict water, on the west side, a
scarped hank lweiity-li\t' feet high wliows. at the Ijoltoni, tifteeii feet of
IS II
\rii\ii\sr\ i,\Ki: ASM riiiiK iiii.r. invi;ri.
vt lull -.umI
xtiilli'.
l!iii;iiiil Ii'iri/iiiit.illy stiiililicil, latlicf liiii' i;riiiiii'(l siiiiilNtuiic, liuili wliiic iiiul
lilinllt I'cil JM ccilcilll'. 'I'lli' rril suii(l>|!>|i(' (IciCS IKil t'nl'in I'l'irnllir In lis,
lull r•llll^ cluwn iii'c'i.'iiliiily iiilu tlif wliil'. Ii i-, Imwci it. iisiiiilly
I liiii lii'ililnl mill sliit'y, wliili' tlu" wliih' is (il'lrii iiimlnMlrly IJiiik,
lirililrd. 'rill' VM'MflliTcd slll't'.ii'i' lit' I'll' ITil lirils i, liliilcliiMJ willi
niiiiiili'il ji^lilcr' s|i(it^. \(i fiissjU ot' iiiiy Uiinl cniiM lir t'luiiiil in ilir-.i'
SlinilHtlllKV
It is (liillhl li'S> lit' Kci'Uih;
ii'. llir s,iiii.' ;is the
ciiiiisi' sMiiilstMiif si'i'ii lii.'lii'r Mil I III' in IT.
{■'ill' llili'i' mill's lirldu llic lii';i\y i';i|iiil. llii' iImt is \\\i\,\ wilji l(p\>
milks. < )ur r;iiii|i wiis jiiti'lii'ii mi llii' I'.'ist luiiiii in a '_'i'ii\ !■ ut' siiiiilj
ly llli-^ ipiii'l |iMrii<iri nt' iIh
lirl.
W r;llll]l till' rlMT IlllWS Willi Mil t'M'll rlllTl'lU. Illlll llll'll ,1 siTll'S Ot
sl Irani. l''iT a inilc ami a Imlt'
III
ia|iiilslit".:iiis,iii(li>xt(«iiilst'i)r t'liitr 111 ill's, to ihi' iiiiintli nt' l'«ail waliT IliM
liinl Willi r
liJMI'.
11,1.1 W.lliT I
{Imt is a liiinilii'il 1 11 'I u nil' at il - iiiniii li, sliallow. u illi
iiililv liiittiiiii. Its waliT is rli'.ir ami it is saiil in II
.1 I Mill I I
IltIii mil
mill's Iiiiil;, i\in.
Ill tl
lU Innii a l.'iki'
ir r.l-l. ill llir iniilsl nt' an rxli'lisivc
su;im|i. I'"iiiiii till' nil Mil II 111' I'luI u ,iIit JliMi'. ( 'h'i' liiM'i ruiil iiiiii's tn
lliiw iinr! Iiw nil I'm' lliiri' miles, 1.|ii'i)iil;1i luw iiinliil.il iir.;' s.niily inuiiliy,
anil tiirii it liiriis sharply ui'stuani tn llm inniiih nf 'rmiil iiiviT,
(ii'srciiiliiii; till' last ia|iiil in ils iiii|ii'i iimis cniiisi'. .\ --liiirt liisiam'i'
iLlin\i' llir IicIkI, a iiiiiiiIht nt riilli:iiil;s, nii the sii|i"~ iit wnniliil liills,
.-liiiw si'cl inns nf sand anil i.'r.i\i'l. rmisisl in:; ni ininiili'il waliTWnni
pi'lililrs and t'lililili's nf saiidstniii'. 'I'lic ii.iiiks arc wnmlrii \\itli I'lank
si, 'in ]iilli' n|- widnw SITU 1 1 In tin- ( (1l;i' i if 1 In' waliT.
'riiiiit lii\ii'. 'rrniil l!i\ii' is a si ri'am nf liiilil lunwi! watiT alimit lunlitllis tlir
si/i' (if Crcr l!i\i'i', tliniiLrli it is slu!.'i;isli at ils innulli, sn thai it is ilif
tiriill In I'sliinati' its I'xact si/c. 'I'ln' Iniliaiis I ravclliiii,' sontliwiinl
fiiniKTlv iisi'd tn asi'ciid it and pnilayc acinss frniii its lii'iiil into Crt'c
Ji.ikc, ratliiT tliaii (isi'ciid Crcc l!i\t'i'.
Six lilinill'i'il \lU'ils In till' wrst .1 lii,'lltlv wnml' I liill rises, clii-e tn
the riviT, tn ,'l liei^ht nf r_'ll feet. Il isenlil|in>iMl alllliist ellt il i Iv nf
sand, thnil'.'h a few lioulders ate > ;itteii'il hmt its siiiinnit. I''rniii its
, (Test a. verv extensive view can lie had nf the siii rnuiidiii'.,' cniiniiv.
Siii'i'iiiiiiijinir ,„ , ■ , , , I 1 • I ■ 1 1 1 I • 1
tuuiitix. Ill the we>l , a i,'ri'llt lc\ei s,inily nr linLJ:,'\ |i|.ilii. Ililcklv wnnileil uitli
pine, stretches away inwards smne low distant hills. 'In the imitli .1
siinilar cnuiitry e.xtends tn the hills snutli ni lilack Lake. .\ sm.dl
lake lies a ciiU]ile (if liiilcs In llie sniithuesl, lieyninl uhich are snnu^
Inw hills. Tn the east, the \ icw is lint sn e\lensi\c, and the riiunliy
linl s'l h'M'l.
l-'rnni the innuth nf 'J'i'nnt l!i\ei. which was found to li(> in latitude
"ii's :'i7 Pi . Crec l!i\('r llows N. .In I'"., for sixt(?cii miles, measured in
a straight lim
rent, 11 Kem-ia
In line |iliii'e, 1
fiirins the ms
narrow sandy
(heir appeiirai
niiinerniis as I h
oppnsile the II
ei;,dily feel. I
llolh sides, sl.i
c'oinpnscd aliiii
ovor its top an
one, prnhalily :i
I'liiin the nil
ward, around t
course nf li\|.
empties intn the
wide willnw ciiv
i|Uiirlei's i.f a iiij
piti'hi'd nil the e
sun detcrinined 1
'I'lie niniilh III
hi'cn nccilpied i|
fall is lietweeii .'»(
•"'''^ S' is 11 |-,,,,|.|
the rate of fmin 1
ipiite so had, llim
gradually sl.icken
U'apus Isl.md
lyin;,' S. lit) W.
and a little |aie
thinly strewn u it
Two miles Unit I
rapid with a fill
hedde I, nften sli;d
of llio .strait seem
of the same a<;e as
W'apata Lake iii,'ai
and a mile and a-lii
iinrlh shore are ap
1
< lIKi: IMVKK.
CI I)
II .slriii;,'lit liiif, til 'lie niuiitli nt' Siiiitly Hivci'. It li.is u initdfriilc I'lii-.
rent, iv ki'ih'I'hI wi'ltli ot' t'r<im 1*)0 to '200 yiinls, mid ii sMudy liottiHii.
III one |iliic't', II I'lill' tliiity fret '. '.'^\\ (tf uiist riitilifd till with Imuldfis,
tnriiis tiic ciiHt liiiiik, l)Ul (illuTwisc tilt' Itiiiiks urn low. I'ili>ii;;iiti'd,
iiaiinw sjiiidy liills or ispntiiiowH, siiiiiliir to tliosc on Civ l.jtUc, make •"puiUHiwi..
tlicir ii|i|iciiraiici' at tilt' iiicnith of Troul. MImt, and hi'cdinc vciy
iiuiiiciiius as till' ii\i'r is dcM-ciidi'd. ( )iii' clothed witli jtanksiaii jiiiics,
o|i|>osili' till' iiiiMilli of Handy Kivcr, I'iscs to ii lu'i^'lit ot' a hiindri'd and
I'inlity fi'i'l. It slopes li^jhtly towai'ds Imlh ends, and is very steeji on
hoth sides, slaiidiny; u[i liken knife edge trendiiii; S. (>.*) \V . It is
t'oinposed iilinost entirely of sand, hut ii few limilders are seattered
o\er its top and sides, From it niiiiiy other siiiiilar hills may he ■•een,
one, in'iihahly .'Ino tVet liiijh, lyiiiir in a direction \. .''<.'") |''.
l'"i'oiii the nioiilh of Sandy liivei', t'ree Kiver turns sharply west-
wai'd, around the iiurtli end i>f the hiil just descrilied, and after a
I'liiirse (it live miles, pa^t sexeral olliei' lii,'li sandv ispatiiiows,
em|itit's into the southwest ^ide of W'apata Lake, in llie midst of a \\':i|i,iiii L.tix. .
wide willow eovered marsh. W'e here crossed tlii' lake for three
ipiiirters of ,1 mile lo the easi end of \\ apfis Island, wheie camp was
pitched on the ewniiiL,' of •Inly L'lst, ami where an ol)scr\al ion of the
sun ilcteiinined the \,iriations of i he coiiipa^> as "J'.l I').
The mouth of I'rec l!i\er had now heen reached, fiur days having ( lincnil
heeii occupied in it^ de-ccnl. Its leni,'tli is lOS niilcs, , and its total ','.",',|,'''|','|'^',,i.''
fallis lielweeii ."illO .ind tWjOfcel. Its upper pall, to north latitude
."iS N' is a roarini;. foaming torrent, riishim; iiloni,' in many jilaces at
the rate of from ten to Iwehe miles an hour. The lowei' part is not
i|uite so had, lliouj,di much of it is vei'y swift and shallow. Tin; current
i,'railu.illy sl.ickens to the Like.
W'apus Isl.mil is a low narrow iidi;e nearly Iwd miles in leni,'th, \\;i|,usl>laMil.
lyini; S. (iO W. It is thickly w led with spruce, hiich, white poplar
.'ind a little larch. The north-west shore of the lake is also low and
thinly strewn with houlders.
Two miles north west fr in W'apus Iskmil is a strait in which is a sti.iit in
rapid with a fill of a foot. .Manv fragments of mottled imd thin )\'M':"a
*. . l.aUf.
hedded, often sh.ily. sandsiono iire lying in the watei', and the hottom
of the strait .seems to he composed of this rock, which is undouhtidiv
of the same age as that previously seen on the ri\er. ISelow the strait,
W'apata Lake again opens out to a hody of water ahout si.\ miles long
and a mile and a-lialf wide. A high hill on an isl.md and another on the
north shore are apparently similar to those on the lower pare of the
I
r
1
no I)
ATIIAHASCA I.AKh; AM> i 11 T liCII I I.I, UlVlIli.
•I'll
iiif is hciummHv s.iiiilv (ir slrt'wii with siiiiill Ixmlder.-
J'iiii' i!i\(M' ('hi|ili('s into tile soulli t'lid ot' this Like It is said to he a
iaiifi' rapid sti'eaiii "•liK'ii camint lie ascended tar in eaiiiies cm aecDUiit
of l'aj>
mil fallen liinhe
The river, llowiiii,' fioin t ho west side of the lake, is at lirstwide,
lith a si-arcely .ippieciMlile eiifrent. A iiiili^ and a-iialf down stream
|)ose(l
IS com
a hill rises on the iioilh l>anli to a height of I 10 fei't. It
of sand and some hoiilders. A clill', sLindiii'' fortv-live feet ahovi
tli<
ake, shows a sectioi
OM l.r,l.'lir,s,
I liiji lllinnv
■ll.MlllH'l.
\ of sand, eol)l)les and hoiddcrs, all fairly
well rounded. ( )n the sides of the hill. at. li<'ii,'hts of se\enty, oij^lity
and ninetyli\(' f^M't ahovc ilit^ lake, res|iecti\t'ly, are three well marked
heaeli-ridm's of !\. <iided gravel, and the summit is composed of rounded
coD'jies,
all showing' distinct shore-lines of II y|ier-l>lack Lake, which
iiiusi haxe covered a l,iri;e area of the surroiiiuliiii; country.
At the point of this hill the ri\('r turns sh;irply northward, and
Hows for a mile as a nipid deep stream a hundred and tifty feot wide,
hetween low dills of lif^hl pink .sandstone. It then ('\]iaii(ls, and in a
iiiile and a quarter ujieii.s into the south end <if Ulack Lake. At this
It tl
le west shore is low
ind ''entlv
<V
to a licach of l)ouldei>
Wllllt
hill
till! east shore. The count rv isthii'klv wocmNhI with
small spruce
I'lack r.ake is a lon<i; narrow liody of clear water lyiiii; in a ijeiioral
north-east and south-west diri-ctioii, with a i,'featest length of forty-one
miles, a ^'reatest width of nine miles, a shore-line of about I lit miles,
and a total are.i, includinif islands, of two hundriMl scpiare miles. On
.lulvtlth, iS'.l.'i, its water had a tem]ierature of .")S !•'. Its present
naiiie .seems to have been Ljivon to it l>y l>a\ id riioin]ison, ]ierlia|)s from
he dark hills of noritc which o\erlook its north
west shore,
l!v th
( 'hilijiewy.'in I ndians of l''ond du Lac it is called I )<'ss-da tir.i-tua, cir
lout lis of Cree, Stoiu^
M'l
.Mouths of Three Kiveis Laki', alludin]H to tl
and Chipmaii ri\crs wliicli empty into it.
I'
shaiicd
lav for tl
r roiii I lie tunnel-shaped mout li or » ree iiiM-r, our course lay tor two
miles and ai|uarter in a iiiu'th northeasterly direction across the most
southern hay of the lake to a narrows with low houldery shores, and
tlKilice onward in neai'ly the same direction for two miles and a-half,
past ;i low sandy shme to the east viu\ of a narrow cli,iniiel ruiiiiiiiL,'
hetween a larj;t! island and the iii.iin shore. This channel is a hundred
and lifty yards wide, with steep sand esca rp men t,s from ('ij,'hty to a hun-
dred feet iiiirl
>S0 W. The
od for three 1
oil acro,ss tin
f.Kamiiie it fu
hi'iii.i,' tli(! lirst
may, for a sIk
lake to the sou
h'vel, in which
river which liaH
l'"or six miles
irreiful.ir, usu.i
hlaek sprui c ,ii
■■^oi f the poii
'Ik' lake expand
comes much mo
round. >d hills oi
west shore runs
meiit L'.'JO feet ii
t)oyond the end ,
<)f (Stone iJiver.
iiu'iit, it is hound
The oscarfjiuent i
father coarse ipi.i
line conylii r.itv
f<'t't, hut tile .sand
the face of the i
di.stinctly striated
ancient, hut post--^
feot hi:;li. the foot
(.•>stic sliapes hy tl
that this luMch wa
on the summit of t
■ Vflei' following,'
Ihe shore swin,i;s in
ami then for two n
terrace, .North e;i
'i' a proininciii, p,,i
lliit'k-heijded, cars
this p.iint ,Stono l!i
of the Arclia.,ni aiu.
4h
1 1 LACK r.AKK.
51 1)
tlri'd tVet liiijli on liot'ii sidi^s, and runs i|iiili' sliaijilit in a (lirrcliou S.
SO W. The water in it is ili'i'ii ami witliout ciiiTcnt. It wms t'oliow
0(1 for three (luartt'i's ot' a mile, ix-yond wliieli it a]iiirarcd ti) continiio
on aiTuss tiie island, l)ut the tinio at oiif disposal diil ..ot jicrniit us to
cxaniinc it t'urthcr. < hi the sand-hills some white sjirucc^ grows,
l)eiiii,' the first seen north ut' the ("hurehill l!i\('r. 'I'iiis san<l ridge
may, I'or a shorl time, have fornuMl the north siiore of that, part of the
lake to the south, and hisve held its waters higher tliaii their present
level, in which easi' this valley would mark the channel of th<' ancient
river whirli has rapidly cut thi'ouuh the easily eroilcd s iiidy ridge.
l'"or six miles north of this deep narrow i'hanni>l the shores are veiy
iri'(>gular, usually \i>w, and more or less thickly wooded with sin, ill
lilaek spriuc and ])ine. High sand dunes form conspicuous hills at iiii,'h s.uul.
some of the points on the east shore. .\t the end of t he aliov e distani'c
the lake expands In a width of ne.irly three miles, and its outline lie-
eoiiies iinieh more r(>gtilar. its southiMst shore is sandy, with high
rounded hills of sand or houhiers towards its north end. Its north-
west shore runs for scNcral miles .along tlu" foot of a sandstone escarp- SmikIsIi.hi-
nieiit -'lO feet ill height, which extends away towards the south-west, ''^'■"1 "'•
heyond the enil of the lake, and north east to within ii short distance
of Stone |{iver. Where the west shore leaves the foot, of the escarp-
ment, it is hounded liy sand plains or terraces of greater or less height.
The escarpment is composed of hori/ontallv lieddeil white or lii;ht-pink, \ili:il':i-<i"i
rather coarse (|uait/ose, ri|)plc-inarke(l sandstone, otten changing to a
line conglomerate. (>ther liner lieds iiiav occur in the U|iper seventy
feet, hut the sandstone throughout the lower Hit) feet is all exposed on
the face of the clilV. The smooth rock on tlu> summit nf t lit> dill' is
distinctly striated in a direction S. 7l) \\'. At a height of I '27) feel, an ( )|,{ v|„iir line.
ancient, Init post-glacial, siiore line is distinctly marked hy a elill' twenty
feet high, the foot of which is carNcd into ca.es, pillars and other fan-
last ic shajies hy the jictioii of ihewjitcr. It would appear |)rol)al)le
that this heach was formed at the same \\aler-lc\el as the gi';i\el har
nil the suinmil of the hill helwceii W'apata and I'ljack lakes.
.\fter following the foot of the rocky i-scarpnicnt f(ir several miles,
the short' swings more to the east. It is at lirst strt^wn with lioulders,
and then for two miles is iHuinded hy ,i clill'of sand rising lo a sandy
terrace. Norl h east of I his again, is .-i low shore si rewn with houlders,
lo a prominent point on which is an exposure ten feel in hi'ight of
thick-hedded, coai'se wliil(> sandstone or line conglomerate. North of , .^ ||,.|^ | ^ j-
this point .Stone l!iver tlows out (if the lake along the line of ctuitact •\"'l'' •"! ■""'
of the Archaean and the {'aheo/iMc rocks. Half a mile N. .'it) 1']. from i-,«k-.
4i
■
II
Sdiilli >liiiii
;):.' I) AI'lIAltASCA LAKIO AM) CIIUHCHILL RIVKH.
tlie last point, iind cm tlio opposite side of the river, is n rouiuled boss,
tit'ty foot iiinii, of reddisli-^Tiiy, wi'll foliated, slifj;litly hiotitio <iranite-
Uiieiss. striking N. 3o Iv and dippiiif; X. 5")' W. at an angle of 75".
Its surface is rounded and covered witli black liclien. In thin sections
this rock is seen to be composed of .|uarl/;, consiilerabiy crushed ;
plagioclase, altered to some extent into sericite ; orthoclase (?) ; and
liiotite slightly altcicd to chlorite.
From here Black Lake opens '.;. into its largest expansion, the
south-east shore turning shivrplv to tlie east, and tlio north-west shore;
continuing in a north-e.isterly direction. No sandstone is seen on the
latter shore, it being composed of a high, ridge of Laiirentian gneiss.
The south shore was followinl by Mr. howling, who gives the follow-
ing descrijit ion of it : —
" From the narrows, to which the long portage from Middle i^ake
leads, the shore eastwards is coinp'irati\'ely straight, broktMi iiuly by
a few salient points. Stratilied sands, deposited in an ancient lake-
basin, are exposed in a bay near' the uioutii of .Stone Ri\er, showing
in ail a thickne-s of forty feet. .V ]>rdminent feature on tlu; shore to
tlie south is the ])resence of a seri(!s of oval hills about 1 ■")() feet high,
all lying in a broken chain, parallel to the shore or about eastand-
west.
"The shores are mostly boulder-strewn, with sand behind, a, i the
underlying rock is exposed in oidy ()n(> pl.ue, just west of the upper
Stone Kiver. There sandstone slabs are piled up on the ])oint, an-'
about two feet (if sandstone in jilace is exposed at the water's edge.
The beds are une\en and ili-delined, but are about a foot thick, of
c(jarse grain and stained with red.
" 'I'he Stone Kiver discharges into lUack Lake by two mouths, in-
closing an island of dark gneiss. Thus the boundary between the
Archa'an and tlie Keewenawan sandstone iier(( is al the westei'ii
mouth iif tills river."
l-'rom Stone Kiver, the north-west shore of the lake has a general
trend \. 40 E., for fifteen miles, keeping close to the foot of a ridge
from L'OO to 100 feet in height, of a dark amjihilKtlite, sometimes
almost massivi', and somi'times varying to highly horid)le.'idic gneiss or
hornblende-schist, striking with '.he trend of tlui ridg(! and dipping at
a iiigh angle away from the lake. r)ld sliore-lines were not so dis-
tinctly niirkeil her," as on the face of the sandstone escarpment further
south, but thirteen miles fidni Stone Kivei', one ancient beach was
seen fifty-fivi
zontal line of
Fir Island
with an an
throughout b
this white hi
feet abov(! th
forty feet liig
Its other sidf
of the sandsti
7o W.
About lifte(
torrent lifty fei
schist to join tl
leaves the tout
tliough it is stil
blende-schist.
r)It 17':U", one
the overhaiigiiii.
on the canoe roi
their hunting gi
Telzoa Hiver tic
country of the E
gained the expec
without guides,
mouth at the he;i
Just i)ack froii
liigh, composed j
large. 'J'hese co
gneiss, — none bisi
the West.
Tlie shore to tl
and then with dis
entrance to the p
this rock and the
side of the b ly is
granite. iJehind
nias.ses of similar
A mile and ah
long low point of
ulack lake.
53 D
seen fifty-fivo feet above the present water-level, inai'ked by a hori-
zontal line of rounded peV)l)les.
Fir Island lies oft' this shore. It is a larj,'e rudely trian;;ular island
with an area of about twelve S(|uare miles, doubtless underlain
throujiliout by hoi'izontal sandstone. .\t its south-west point, cliffs of
this white htn'izontally bedded sandstone rise to a heii;;ht of fifteen
feet above the water, and alons,' its nortli-west shore ai'o eliffs itf sand
forty feet hii^h. Its northern exlreniity is a loni,' point of bnuldi-rs.
Its other sides are low, but wiipe not elosely examined. The surface
of the sandstone at its souiii end is .strongly glaciated on a liearing X.
7.-) W.
.About tiftcen inile.^ frOTU Stone Kiver, (,"hi[)man Uiver, a rapid
torrent fifty feet wide, tundiles uvt.'r masses an<b poinis of gneiss and
schist to join tin^ lake. Fri)m the mouth of Chipman Kiver, the shore
leaves the foot of tiie high rock)' ridge and swings more to the east,
thougii it is still composed of very similar .Vrcliiean gneiss and horn-
blende-schist. Two miles along the shore, in observed north latitude
T)'.! 1 7' •> 1", one of our Indian <'anocmen pointed out a ])lace among
the ovcihaiigiiig willows, where he stated that a )ioitage left the lake
<m the canoe route by which the Chippewyan 1 iidiaus aiuniallv travel to
theii' bun till'.' grourids at the lieail of the Tel/.oa Hi\('r ; adding tiiat the
Tel/cia Kiver flows an unknown distance towards the north, into the
country of the i'^skimos and the mw^k oxen. On the information here
gained the expedition of the following year was lar'gely ])lanned, when,
without guides, the Tel/oa Kiver was descendi'tl for 800 miles to its
moutlial the head of Chesterlield Iidet.
•fust \>nvk fi'om the shore and parallel to it, is a ridge seventy feet i
hiL;h, composed almost entirely of lioulders, some of which ai'e very
large. Tiiese consist chiefly i>f a fine and even-grained retl granite-
gneiss, — none being seen like the dark hornblende-roi'k in tiie ridge to
the west.
The shore to the eastward is composed of granite, at first massive. '
and then witii distinct gneissic foliation, and th(> bay north-east from the "
eiitiance to the portage si'enis to run .along the line of contact between
this I'ock and the hornblende-schist to the west. A point on tiie west
side of the b ly is eoin])osed of a very coars(>, massive white muscovite
gi-anite. Iii'liind this point is a hill sixty-five fei't higii, of ii I'cgular
masses of similai' rock.
A mile and ahalf to the south, past some low granite islands, is a
long low point of even-grained reel ^ aiute. The general surface is
mill.
I'(.r
I.. 'I
l!iv
tafji' route
r.'lzoa
or.
;iili;e.>f
«.nlc|rl>.
iiaiiiti- and
mi.....
\[
^^
.-ll I)
ATIIAHASt'A I.AKF. AND CIlfliCIllM, lilVICli.
rises ill pliicivs to ii iu'iylil of a iiimilrt'd t'cct. 'I'lic imk is iil
giu'iss, mixed with simiia.' i,'raiiite, or cut hy yniiiite veins.
(iliu'ial ^^'"-'ll Hiiioothed iiiul luiirlced by gliiuial grooves trending S. 72 W.,
Hi-diivts. while some lee surfaces show distinct grooves trending S. h2 W ., pro-
baiily made hy the same glaeiei' at an earlier date than the others.
Tliree-(iuarters of a mile east of this point, is anotiier low point com-
posed of similar granite, witli a strike N. 75 I'i., and a di]) N. 15 W.
< '_'5 . h'or tlie next mile and a-ijuarter we travelled hy a low shore
strewn witli liouldei's, to a small low island of very irregularly foliated
gray gneiss, cut by veins of reil pegmatite Itssurfat'c? is well
smoothed, and marked by glacial giooves trending S. tiO \V.
l>laii<ls of 11(1 l''or the next six miles numerous rounded islands, thinly wooded
t''"'"^^' with black spruce and birch, lie oil" the moderately straiiiht shore, which
a reddish
it, is oc-
casionally Jointed, bicakinu' <lowii into little clilN, hut the islands gen-
erally descend more or less yently on all sides to tli(> water. (ilacial
.vtri;e ail run bet we 'n S. i',0 W. and S. 7"> NV.
I'"rom this jioint, wlieic ui' left the north shore, the lake continues
eastward for a couple of miles, to the foot of a liiL;h ridL^e of locky
hills. W'e turned southward, passing the jioint^ of an island of loliattd
I'.a-i -li"i.-. hdi iiblende-granite, to the eas; sIku'c in north latitude "I'.t l.'i' i^S ' at
a sand beach in front of high rocky hills of very similar gneiss, stiik-
ing east and clipping scnith at an angl<> of H) . A mile and a (pnirter
further south is tht? nniutli of Stone lii\i'r, which is here ;$(H) feet
wide. ( )n each side rise little rounded hills of sand, wooded with
spruce, p'lie ;ind birch.
A//iii/ii(.-r,i l,(tl,i'.
This lake lies in a general east -northeasterly and west -southwesterly
direction, along :he line of contact of the com|iaiat i\eiv undislui'lied
and unaltered Paheo/oic sandstones to the south, and the nuu'h (lis
turbed and highly altered Archican gneiss, schist, Ac, to the north.
Area. It has a gr(!atest length of I '.•."! miles, a greatest width of '■\'\ miles,
;i shoreline of IJ") miles, and a total area of 'li^hO square miles.
According to -Mr. .Mct'onnell * it has an elevjition of GHOfeet above the
sea. Its depth has not yet been determiiu'd.
'rriliutaric^. Its principal Iributaiies are the Athabasca Itiver from the south,
and the Stone Iiivei' from the east, while siveral other smallei' streams,
"HilHirt 111! a I'ertioii of the District of Atlml)ii.sca, li.v Ii. < '<. .\li< 'oimi II, < )llawa,
lS!i:(. .\iiiiuil 1!i'|"ii-t, llrnl. Surv,, Can,, \nl. V. (X.S.I, ls;to.iil. |,. l'T n.
nujutioned or
countr)-.
The .s(nith
tin' tributary I
in the summ(|
cxaiuined and
portion of the
by his assistant!
and th" results!
and state in mj
with reference
On the norti
post of Fort ("h
century. To tl
grown up. occii|
fur-tiaders for-
clnrru'h and rruss
l)ay, the Koman
merit, around w
sloping land a ft
country consists
small lilac k spru(
banded hoi'iiblen
glacial slr'iii' r-uni
From ( 'hippew
foi' twi'lve miles t
ot hill:, compose
the ,t,'enei;d dii'ecl
Poplar' I'oini, the
of the clilVs of i,'n(
i-ounded boulder-s,
\\ l'"rshing I'oi
light and dark gr'i
veins of opacpn' w
green chloritic ;ini
and highly alter'cc
I'OI' the ru'Xt III
coinjiosed of a ligl
elase, chlorile, biot
A'llIAliASCA I.AKi;.
iJU I)
mentioned nr (l(!sci'ihecl later on, di'ain into it fi'oni tlio surrounding
i:ountry.
Tile south sliore of tlie lai«', with the lower courses of some of Suim ys,
the trihutary slroam.s. was (examined and surveyed by Mr. fowling
in the sunmusr of hS'Ji.' ; the north shore, east of l'"ond du Lao, was
examined and stirveyed hy the, writer in the same year; the reMwiininj;
portion of the north sliore was examiiu'd l)y the writer, and surveyed
by his assistant, James W. 'I''3'rrell, C'.E., D.L.8., in ihosumnierof IS'.).'!,
and th" results then olitainecJ are included here in ordiu" to represent
and state in nuire eoneise form the infor nation at present available
with reference to the geoloi^y of the lake.
On th(! north shore of the lake, neai' its west (Uid, the fur trading |.',i,.t
post of Kort Chippewyan has stood sinet! the early part of the present * li'l'l""\'i'i-
century. To the west of it, facing the lake, a row of small houses has
grown up, occupied by natives who ai'e more oi' less depend(,'nt on the
fur-tr.'ulers for support, and at the end of this row is an I'lpiseojial
church and ndssiciri Ikiusc. .\bout a mile to lli(> west, ai'ross a small
bay, the Komaii Callinlics hive a church and large mission establish-
nieril, iironnd which is a small but- will tilled farm, on low gently
sliiping lanil a few feet abuvc the le\el nf the lake. The surrcninding
country consists of evenly rounded rocky hills thinly wooded with
small blai K s)iruce. The rock is generally a red and dark regulaily
binded hornblendic gneiss, and its suiface is strongly marked by
iicial stri;e runnuii
!■
rom ( hippcwyan, tlu' n(
N. 7.". W.
till' north shore of the lake runs north-easiwai'd Neitli shi
for t\\('lv(! miles to I'oplai' Point, along t!;e foot of a rather high ridge
•oni|iosed of similar banded gneiss striking parallel to
III
of 1
the gt
eiieial direction of the sin
ore, and more or le;
ne;irlv vert ical
At
Poplar i'oint, llit^ gneiss contains many green epidolic bands. Fn front
of the clitVs of gneiss ai'e exposures of sand, containing pebbles and
)ne or conulomeratc.
rounded boulders, most of which .'ire of sandsti
\[ {''ishing Point, two miles further id
light and dark-gray gneiss, very irregularly foliated, and cut by many
the shore, the rock is
lull),' 1 iiiiU.
veins of opa(|Ue white ([uart/, with some Ncins or narrow dykes o
id
reeii chloritic .and epidotic schist, which wdiild seem to lie a crushed
)f dark
h
d h
iglily altercil erupti\(
I
liti:
l''or the next mile, the shore is very rocky, and at th<^ long point is
I'omposed of a light-green chloi'itic gneiss, consisting of ipiart/, piagio-
clase, chlorite, biotite ,iiid epidote. The i|uart/, which is present in 'i.^e
51) I.
ATIIAIIASCA I,AKI'. ANI> CM fllCllll.l. llIM.lt.
TYnRElL
•1
ninouiit, is very iiiul'Ii ci'usIkhI nnd Wr'okiMi. riic ft'lspiir is jirt'SHnt,
(il'icn ill large gniiiis, wiiicli ]ii(i)(hI <m the wi-ailicrcil surtMcc. 'i'liis
'iieiss forms tlic sliorc sdihc (
list.
iiiec iinrtii\viii(
.111(1 lljcii recedes t'loni
■t\\r> liiki', after wliirl'. tlic hcai'li is sandy. A dct'ii ruiinilcd l)ay is next
Clitl'^ I if >;iliil. passed, ill till
bottt
uf which are some rather lii<;h cliffs of sand.
'MiKlv ti-n'iu'i
■ li.-li
^'nii«<
ihile tie.varcis tli(> north it is terminated hv .i
low sandy sp
it.
Sorao large islands lyin;; oil' this portion of the shore ,ire low and
tliicklv wfioiled. Thev are prolialilv underlain liv Atlialiasca sa dstonc.
Can
i]i was jiitched on the
:an(
ly spit,
near its l)aso.
('
St of .1
se to this plai
line on the north suk; o
low 1 1
if hi
f til.
;lil\
altered calcai us sandstone, possihly of lluroiiian ai.'e. It is handed
icddish and greenish hands, strikes west, uiid dips noil!
nyle of 30 In thin seetii)iis it is seen to I
le coin]H)HHd ot (|uart/., ortho-
I at an
tlr
clase, plagioelase, calcite, niuscovite, (?) ehloi-ite. pynte .ind magnetite.
In places it is cut by thin irregul.ir \ciiis of i|iiart.-. and often shows
an iin|)erfect slaty cle.ivage. Its surface is stronirly marked liy glacial
"rooxes, trendini; S. (i
W
ilidf a mile further northeast, is a rock of very similai' eomjiosition,
hut liner grained and hiu'ldy schistose, the strike nt I he schist, hiMiig
along the shore, mikI the dip .iIiimjsI verti",d. I'>eliind the rocky lie.ich
a sand\' tei'race rises to the height cif iwenlv-llve feet above the
ak.
half
a mile
is a ridire of irranite hills from i •")() to
L'Otl feet in heiiiht. l''or tlie next seven miles, the shore is f )rnie(l of
vertical or overhanging dills ot schist, rising in |)laces to a height ot
forty feet, but a still' uiishoi'e wind, with a dense fog. pn veiileil a
closer exaininatioii.
in ohseiM
il latin
'.I ('.' :!•.
iltl.
andv lieach oU'ered a saf(
ace. and we went ashore nciir the mouth of ii lin
four feet
wide, aroiiiK
I th
)iitli of which a good deal of ice was still cliiiL.'ing.
TliC beach is in front of a low terrace, .■ind close to it is a boss of liirlit
ildish gray gneiss
>t likm
N. i:. 1-:
for llle scllisl
las now u;iveii
out.
The surfiic:e of thu gnei.ss is beautifiilh smoothed and striatei
in a direction
lobe.'H :{0E
\.
W. Tl
le \'ariat'on i
if tl
i(^ comiPiiss was here toum
''roiii here the sliori' turns more to the easluard and 1 omes lower
and more irregulai
it
consists of points of reddish gray biotite-
granite or gneiss, without any persistent s
trik(
betwetMi which are
saiu
Iv 1
)ays, where the sand is ottcn ]>iled into hi
'h ilu
lies.
Cam)) was pitchi'd at night on the bank of l''isliing Creek, on a
pleasant ilat covered with short gras.s and wooded with small Hanksian
piiKvs. A he.'ivy si
iiig day. Fishing
milt! from the lake
from a swamp. 'I'l
granite, similar to
Creek the shore \n
(Jray-willow Point
a high ridge som
with .1 sandy plaii
back towards tin
willow I'oint. Scot
and is composed
Athabasca sandsti
l''rom Scorched (
nearly seven miles
The shore of the b
to be a low boss
until it is out of s'
( )n this plain rise
not determined.
Maurice I'oint
angular lilocks ol
diameter, that lia\
hand. This iiiegi
tanee of 'JDO yard
westward into the
formed when the
l'"idui .Maurice
deep bay, for sev
was pitched on th
woods of small 1 >:
respi'ctively t wen
inilicatiiig liigher
slabs of reddish
the south side, CO'
ami must have 1
the ice. Scattei
a large number
green amphilioli
moderately well
iiicl\es in diamet
ATllAlfASCA I.AKK.
.), 1)
il'nW
pines. A ii(M\y sloi'iii di'tiiiiied us in this caini) thr(Hij,'li()ut tlio fnllow-
inj; (lay. l''isliing Cfeek is 200 feet wide, but without current, and a
mile from the lake it contracts to a small ln'oolc ten feet wide, llowini,'
from a swamp. The hills hehind are coniposcMl of reddish-gray hiotile-
jjranitc, similar to that on the shore. From the mouth of Fishinji
Creek the shore was followed foi' si.xteen miles, past Cypress Point to
(jray-willow Point. The ^'ranite hills recede from the lake, forniin;.;
a hii,'h ri(lj,'e .«omi' distance inland, and the shore is low and sandy,
with a sandy plain, tit'teen oi' twenty feet al)ove tiie water, stretching'
l)ack towards the hills. A milt! and ihrei -c|uartirs lieyond tlray-
willow P(»int, Scorcheddoj,' Island lies a short distanc(i oil' the shore,
aiui is conip(»sed of sand and boulders, most of the latter l)ein;,' of red
Athabasca sandstone and conglomerate
I'riPMi Scorciied-doi; Island Wi' travelled in .i direction N. 05 E., for Saii'ly sIkhc
n(!arly seven miles across the moutli of a shallow hay to Maurice Point.
The shore of the liay is .sandy, except alone point, whci'c theie seeni(>d
til lie a low boss of rock. The rid<,'e of i,'ranite hills contiinies to recede
until it is out of siyht, and a sandy plain stretches back from the lake.
On this plain rise some rounded wooded hills, but ihi^ir character was
not detei-mined.
Jlauriic Point is piled to a height of twenty feet with irregular
angular blocks of reddish Athabasca sandstoiu', some ter feet in
diameter, that have doid)i!ess been derived from rock in ')lac(; near at
hand. This irregidar mass of sandstone blocks extends back to a dis-
tance of •J(K) yards ficin the lake, and from it a gra\c'l bar stretches
westward into the wcods, with a liei..;ht ol fifteen feet abovt> the water,
formed when the lakestoidat a somewhat iiigher level than at ])reseMt.
l''rom .Mauiice Point, we ttavcllcd N. 'M) \'. . across the mouth of a
deep b;iy, for seven miles to Sining Point, just north of which camp
was pitched on the evening of .lune -ttli. iJehind camp, within the
woods of small Panksian pine, are two well rounded old gravel beaches,
res[)i'ctively twenty aiul thirty-live I'eet above the ]iresent watei-level,
iiulicating higher stages of the lake. The ]ioinl is composed 'argely of
slabs of reildish .\thnbasca sandstone and ( onglonierate, which, on
the south side, cover'all the uppci' portion of ihi' slope. All are angular
and nmst have lieen broken from rock close at hant' ami piled up 1 v
the ice. Scattereil alon,' the shore, with the masses of sandstone, are
a large number of rounded boulders of gneiss, green schist, massive
green iimphibolite, aitd red or green Muronian conglomerate, with
moderately well rounded ]iebbles of granite and gnei.s.s up to eight
incl'.es in diameter.
.\Iaiu ifi
TniMt.
■■liriiii; Point.
'
t :;
.jS I)
AIIIAIIASCA I.AKi: A\l> ('II UHCII I I.I. KlVKli.
t'lili.nt.
!.fiii*l.
Tlio iie.xt (lay wii.s .•<t(iniiy, liut witli (■oiisi(l('i'iil)k' dillifulty a distain'o
of ('le\on miles was inado. Several low wooded islands wei'o passed,
and the heacli was for (iie most part low and sandy. At eairip the
shore was composed of a hard, evenly foliated schist, varyint,' from i,'i'een
ti; reddish-hrowii in colour, ami pi'ohahly of lluronian aj,'e. In this
seel inn it is seen to he a confused mass of decomposition produels such
as serpentine, chlorite, etc.
At a point a mile and a-ipiarter down the shore, similar schist out-
crops, nuieh re(ldene(l with iron. It is cut by many irrej^ular veins of
quart/., lioldin;,' liaiiiatite. Its surface is smoothed and striated, S.
.")U W.
.\l the next point, two miles distant, similar dark j,'reen schist is
expo-ed stiikinji north, and dippiiii,' west nl an ani;le of 7ll . Ft lies
.ig'iinst a boss of red hiulily felspathic j,'ranite, and is very much eou-
t(M'te(l.
I'roin here onward to the mouth of Cypress l\i\('r, the shore seems
to be cumposed of similar schist. l>eyoiid Cypress liixcr is a r'nh^i) of
r.iunded wooiled hills between iOU and KM) feet in hcijilit. possibly of
i.'nciss, l)Ut we were not able to visit them, and th(Mr exact nature is
Uh<i'rtain.
.•^outh 7.") east, I wo miles and :i-h.ilf, .across the uioulh of I he bay into
which the Cypress l!i\i'r Mows, llilf way Point consists of a h.iril and
iMiiupai-t, line ;;raincd, thinly foliated urecii lluidiiiaii schist, inlerlam-
iiiatcd with iiands of tine u'l'.iined criished j,'ranilf or i;neiss, all with a
Very ii'i'etiidar strike, but u'enerally dipping more or less towards the
shore.
• 'liistir ■-ilii-t. In this section the schist is seen to be a clastic I'ock composed of
more or less rounded i;iains of orthoclase, jilaixioclase, (piart/, and a (ine-
U'laincd sericitic i,'roundmass. The tine foliation is due to the parallel
disposition of numerous minute scales of liijht -coloured biotite, under-
Hiiini,' alter;ition tip sericite. With these ai'c associated small particles
of splie(;!i, and small black dust-like incluMoiis, probablvof iron oxide,
rh;il the rock has been submitted to ;^real pressure is shown bv the
uneven extinction of the larger ci'ystals and the idter.il ion of the
groundmass.
Ilalf-vw
I'l.iiit.
(Jnuiitc. Th<; granite is composed of (piartz, orthoclase lai'gely replace(l by
microcline, plagioclase, augite, muscovite, biotite kirgely altered to
e'.dorite, titanite, epidote and ealcite. (Jener.dly speaking the granite
is very j)oor in ferroinagnesian constituents, and the i|uart/. and fel-
spar have been granulated by jjressure.
ATMAIIASCA LAKi:.
59 11
At tlio soutlicrn |ioiiit of Sliitc Isliiiid, two miles eiistwiiid of Jliilf Sliti' l-l.nnl.
way Piiiiit. fifty fci^t of thickly fdliiitiMJ duik-lirowii lluroiiiaii schists
outci'op, striking wi'stwiird, and di|i])inn southward at an aiiu'lo of CO .
To the north of these sehists is a hand of coarse green liurouian eon-
1,'loniciatc, with well rounded jiehhles .'ind a matrix of i,'reen chloritic
material.
The \aiiat ion of the compass was here detiM'min.'d to lie "J" lO' I).
At the south-east point of the same island, is a clill'of thinly foliated
rc(l sdiist, very similar to thi' last, hut not so finely jointed, it is
very evenly handed, and not n.uch contoited, with a strike nnrtli, and
Vertical di]i.
I'ive miles southeastward from Slate Islanil, oil :]{' IS" was the
latitude cilitained from a meridian ohseivalinn of the sun, on the oast
pdini iif a sniall island lyinij; oil' the southwest side of a larj^e low
wooded inland. Near hy was a low exjiosure showing' thi'ce feel of
typical ^'ray or reddish eo irse-L,'rained horizontal Athahasca sand
stone, oci'asionally cdiilaihinL; a few rounded ipiarlzite pehhles. Tlie
larLTc island also seems to he uompiised iif the same sandstone.
\tli;iliiisi;i
sll|i|>tolir.
Nui'ih-east (if this isl.uid ("harlot l!i\er llows into the tli side df < 'IimiI.ii liivir.
the Lake. I 'p this ri\er t he CJ!iip|iewy;in Indians ha\(' a <anoe-riiule
to a series i)f lakes, from which tlicv descend aiidthei' stream tn the
siiulh side iif (ireat Sla\e Lake. While crnssini,' .\thaliasea l-ake s inie
Indians were met who had just descended Charliit liiscr from Chariot
lidsc, neai- tlu; watershed, where they had been huntini,' durinif the
winter.
|-i(ini L'lr'rli'it i!i\erthe shoie for sex'eral miles siiuthward is Ncrv
rocks, liiith iiills slopinj; steeply to the water. ' >ne pnint, in latitude
o'.t ,")'J, consists of a red and ureen gneiss, rather thinly foliated, strik- leil.iinl },'n'en
iny N. (ii* Iv and dippin;,' S. .'!() \']., at an an<;le of .'10 . It is cut liy
my irrej,'ular veins of white, op.upiecpi u
t/.. In tl
HI section the re
•k
s seen to have In en crusheil a
nd rccrystalll/ed. havinj; lieeii s
uliiect to
,'l'eat pressuic. The (piart/ and ort hoclase are arraniicd in (!lonj,Mted
thouiih a few nf the felspar crystals have
miu'li orokeii auLren masses
surviveil the crushiiif,'. The orii,dnal hisilicates \ui\v disappeai'i'd, and
ai(? r(i)laced hy hornhlei.de. wdiicli is now lari;ely altered to hiotite
and cliloiite. Tt also contains some muscovite, a few laige /.ircons,
and a Ljood deal nf secondary iron ore.
The next |ioint, foui' miles further south, is also compnsed o^' similar
;neiss, heii' strikinj; I'ast and dippinji sou
th at an aiinle of li"
IM
(;o i>
CliicKiiii;'
Ntolll' I'lillll.
IIui''>lii:iii
<Hi;irtziti-.
|)i|i Mill!
sti'iki-.
I'li'aM'i'ii
l>laiiil.
ATMAHASCA LAKK AM) (III EiClIII.l, IIIVKII.
Ill' MiriiitKiii (
if 111
ipllsH WHS lu'ic t'dllliil ((» he .'il.' .'iO' cast.
w
<■ next crusscc
1 II ill
■|i liiiy, ill .1 (lii'i'ctiiiii
S. :il \'].,(
(ir scviMi miles
iiiid 11 li.ilt' to Ci'iickiiiif-sloiic Point, t'liHl <it' wliitli ii stci'p nicky wiili
t'Xteiuls iilun^' the soulli side of iIk? Imy. Tliis point is coiiiiioscd of
inassivi", lij,'lilrc<l and j^rccii course altered liornlileiide ;,'iiiiiite, wliieli
rises ill roiiiidi'd ^lucialiMl kiiol)s, on tlio siiniinilH of wliieli are stroii;^
i,'i!ieial stria' tiendiiij; S, 7"> W.
l''roin ('rackiiiif-stone I'oiiit, we turned sliar])ly east ward, and kept
in narrow olianiiels helweoii islands of ^jraiiiti^ similar to the last. .\t
aliout three milcH ilistaiit, eamp was pitched on the cvenini,' of .luiit(
'Jllth, ill a little sandy cove o\ersliadowed liy aspens. The rock on the
adjoiiiinj,' iiills is a well foliated reddish j,' ray hoi nlilende ;,'iieiss, the
heavy hands strikini; N. 70 K., and dipping S. L'O I'",, at an aiiyle of
l'"or the next four miles, wc wound amoni,' islands wooded with
spruce, poplar and hirch, in a direction a little south of east, ty a point
composed of ji hard white recryslalli/i'd iiuri^nian (]u;irt/itc, which in
thin section shows clear e\ ideiiee of pressuro and ( rushiii;,'. No
stratification could lie seen in the rock at this point, it is o\cilain,
|irol)dily uncoiiformalilv, liv a ncarlv hori/onlal, coarse, red coiiLtlom
elate compijsed of roun<lcd jielihlcs of white c|uart/ite in a '-oaise
sandy matrix. It- was im]iossil)le to make i ihorou:,'' examination of
this r ck. lint ihouuli il is much more hi;,'lily altered tli.iii most of the
.\thahascR sandstone ami c. iiinlomcrate around the lake, il is pinhalilv
I i the same aye.
'or a considerahlo distance eastward froi
f tlie white lliironian ijuart/ite.
int the shore is
composed o
.\t: a point two miles and a cpiarter east, in
ititud
e .)'.!
iiarl/.ili' is redtlisli m colour, liiijhiy allerci
hh
d ant I
very co
.">(»■, the
in|iact. hut it
■ally seen to strikt- N. 40 Iv and to dip S. TiU I'',, at
an aiii,'ic o
")0 . The cpiart/ite continues to form the moderately strai<;lit shore ti
a point SIX mi
les and a-half distant, wli(>re it is heautifullv white and
so much join
ted .'iiid liss
Ul'f'i
that it is
lossihiu to he sure of lli
true stratitication, thoiii,'li it ajipears to strike N. 120 H. and to dip
S. 70 K. at an aii,!j;le of 70 .
.\ mill
d a half out in the lake, iJeavcM- lod^'c Island ri
ses as a iiit;ii
rountled dome of white (piart/ite. The west side of the island is heauti-
fullv terraced, the plains of (|uart/it(> jjiavt'l exteiidin;,' step ahovi* step
to the summit.
On the north slion
from aOO to dOO feet.
lAiiir niilcH and a
(|Uart/it(, ;;reatly cm
grains of <|uart/, a sn
laminated with thin
rock. The rock has
N. 2.') \V., uiul thod
At a distaiuM- of
N. ()li I']., a conspicti
ahriijit red clilT stam
north casteni side, at
schist, very much n
at an anijle ol' In .
(iuart/.it(>, interlicddec
forms the larger par
humlrcd yards in
(juartzite, milif^led wi
hij^her points. In
])cl)li|cs, and a matrix
in till' distance on I In
here and in the \ icini
Camp was pitched I
tliit on the hank of a
Near at hand is a hos
in<; N. 10 K. and d
sections this is seen ti
1,'raiiis all uraiiulaled,
of serpentine, which |
It is, therefore, proha
of reddish rnie-,t,'raine(
l''or the next seven
tinned in a dense foi;
A stop was made at t
a rounded hoss of red |
marked with ula.ial <
( )l(l .Man Point is i
schist, strikin;^ N. 1;"
on the west sidi> of t
East of (.)ld Man 1
ATirAIIANIA LAKi:.
(il 1)
Oil till' iKirtli sliiii'i' of tilt! Iiikf, the lie ' •'!' Hills vim; tii a heij^lil tit'
fioiii 500 to (iOO tVi't.
Four milt's iiiid a lialt' fiirtiitT cast, wo latidi'il on a small islaiul of
i|iiart/ili, j,'it'atly fiuslii'tl and it'L'rystalli/i'd, aiitl iiiiitaiiiiiij,', lit'sidi.-H
;,'i'aiiis of i|iiart/, a siuiill amount of cliloiitt^ and sci'icitc. Il is iiitur-
laiiiinati'd witli thin Imiulsof lif^ht-^reoii coiirsely crystiillino jiyroxeiu)
rock. Till' I'Ofk liivs tlius a wt'll fi-liatrd aii|)oaraii(:i', tlio strike liciii^'
N. •_'-"i \V., aiitl till! flip S. (in W., at an an;,di' of 10 .
At a distant't' of a iiiili' and a-lialf from this islaiul, in a iliroftioii llill'if
N. (id I'!.. II foiisjiicuoiis ri'il hill risos lL'5ft't't alioM' the wati'r, its i',.,,',, ,„,,.
aliriipt It'll flilT stanilinj; out holdiy towanls thi- Miiiih-wi'st. ( >n its
iiorthi'astt'rn siilf, at its hast', it is I'oiiiposcil of thinly lissilt- (|uartz(isi'
schist, very iniicli reddened, striking' N. .">(i W'., and flipping,' S. tiO W.,
at an aiiL,'li' ol' III. I'"arther up the siile of the hill the ri.ck is a
i|uai't/ite, inttu-liedtled with layers of liieniatite, which in some places
forms the lart;er part of the mass, 'I'he summit of the hill, se\t'ral
liiiii(lri'd yards in lciii,'th, is composed of a liii,'lily hicin.atitic
ijuart/ite, mingled with .i larije ipiantity of liiiKinitc, es|iecially on the
higher points. In places the rock is a coiiLilomerate, with ipiariz
)n'l)l)les, and a iii.'itrix of limonite. ( )ther similar red hills can he seen
in the distance on t he strike of the rocks, and the total amount of iron
lieri' and in the \ icinity is douhtlesa very large.
(fillip was pitched two miles anil a-lialf farther east, on a little day
lliit on the hank of a small hrook, amnng a few poplars and willows.
Near at hand is a hoss of thinly foliated d irk gr.iy hiotite schist strik- liiutiti -siliist,
ini; X. 10 K. and dipping S. ."it) Iv, at .in angle of ."io , In thin l""';'''']>' ■'
sections this is seen to he a very much si|uee/ei| rock, with the ipiartz triililiin.
grains ,ill L;raniilated, a large amount of secondary hiotite, and cores
of serpentine, which proliahly icpreseiil porphyiitic crystils of augite.
It is, therefore, proliahly a crushed galihro. .lust to the north is a hill
of redtlish line-gr.iined gneiss, with the same strike ami dip.
l''or the nc.xt seven miles, to < )ld .Man I'oiiit, the journey was con
tinned in a tlense fog throiiL;h n.irrow channels hetwecn small islands.
A sto|) was made at one island almut half wav, which was found to 1 e
a rounded hoss of red granite, 'I'he surt'ace is well smoothed and stronnlv
marked with i;la:ial grooves trending S. I.'i W.
Old -Man Point is composed of a dark, regularly foliated horiiMendc i){,| ^i.,,,
schist, striking N. 15 I'i., and, at the old house, with vertical tlip ; hut • '"'i''
on the west side of the point the dip is S. 75 1']., at an angle of .'fU ,
I'last of < Md Man I'oint the islands are composed of reddish-gray
I
• IL' H
ATIIAIIASCA I.AKi; \NI> ( II I HCII I I.I, ItlVKII,
CiiliKi
licavily Liiiiiii/itrd i;iifiNS, liiit ii |i<iiiit, tniir iiiiii a lialt' iiiilo diM.-inl,
WHS ftMiiid to ((Piisisi lit' )i iMiiiiiiatril ;,'al)liii) -.t liking' N. 1"> Iv ami ili|.
|iiiij,' S. I") 1)., Ill, an aiiuli' nt' 70. 'I'lic jialiliiu roiisisis csscnl iaily of
|ila;,'iiiilast', aiiniti' ami liiiitltc, tlio aiiitilc lirin;; iiimli alli'icil in set'-
poritirit! ami cliliuitc. I'yiiti
acccssoiy tniistitui'iits. It
.1.1
patitc ami /iicmi arc pirsi'ni as
<|iiait/',
IS I'ut liv st'vcriil M'iii.s lit' wiiiii
cw sand
< iaiMi'tllrlcill^
t'liii".
ciiiryiiif; a ciin^iilcialili' .it;:'.:icity iiniii'iiiali(t' aiio pyiiti'.
I'"iii' till' next Icii miles the hIkii'o is xcry nn'ky, with a t
(ir uniM'l IxNirlit'-. .\t a point tlu'i-c miles cast of the muutliuf liciivrr
liivcr, till' inck is a liiii' and cvon-^i'iiini'd Imli fiyslaliinc, ii'ildi-ii
t'liliatcd i;al»l)rn stiikini,' N. 2") \V. witii MTtiial dip. 'I'lir ;;al)lirii
(■iinsi-.ts lit' liytiiwnilc, dialla;;!' and a cun-idi'ialiii' ammint ot' liiown
biotitf. Tiir dialli'.Ljc .shows inripicnl alteration In hiiriiiplemli' and i^
.'•tained with hy<lrivted o.\ide of iron, which is chielly deposited alon;;
the planes of partinj; The surt'act^ is marked liy sti'onj,' ;.'lacial
i,'ioo\es, lrendini;.S. fit) \V.
Mi'dit miles farther, ciiiiii was iiitilied on a rorkv island iiehind a
aih ot coirse i'ia\t
1. Tl
le nil
k
IS a co.irse ''arneiitcious ''nciss
■itrik
111'' cat, ami with alinosl vertical d
lip. T
le timlicr III the \ ninitv
L'hielly IJanksian pine, hut there is aNo some small white and hlacl
spruce, small lialsam poplar, ami aspen up to six inches in diameter.
The iie.xt morninjL; we tniNelled ehncn and a lialf miles tliroiii,'li hei\y
seas to the now deserted tradiiii,' post known as p'ond du l/ic.
This was I lie most westerly point reached on the lake in L"^'.'L', and
the descriptinii of this point /md of the remainini; portion of the north
sh
.f L
.\thalHisca is drawn from the writer's survey and
K.,1,.1 ,1,1 L;
e.xaminatiiiii made in tiiat year.
'I"he lake is here hut two miles wide, and tlie tradillj^ post is .situiited
on a low piint of saii I and rock on its north shore. It consists of a
numher of well huilt lot; houses, with a yard surrounded l»y a pallisade
of .stout posts. In 1,hI)l' it was in char!,'e of .lost' Mer,
Histennf old Fren.'h half hr
till- |)(i>i.
celt se\i
nty live years of
fcdi, a veiieiahli
who had li\ed then
I'ontinuoiisly foi t he ]iast forty-seven ye.irs. I ii the immediate vicinit;,
1. ujiere a priest lives durini;' tlii
is H lioinaii Cathiilii' mission clmrc
winter. Mr. .Mercredi inforiiieil me that in the early part of the cen
fury the Hudson's Hay Coiiip.uiy had a tradini; post on a point on the
south side of the Lake, lyini,' in a direction S. 'JO \V,, and that the three
inhutiitants weie killed hy Chippewyaii Indians. .\t tlie ,ime lime
the \ortli-west Company had a post on a point on the north ■-hore
(I short distance farther east, hut after tho murder of the Hudson's
Hiiy ( 'omp.iny'-- men
shore. The place wa'
eredi arrived and Inii
lines of travel of the
tions north and soiitl
The vai'iat ion of tl
mean of two oh.cva
the latitude at .'»!» |.s
The rock is a iri
irret,'ular strike, hut
S. •_'() W. ,it an an
of red pi'um.itite. 'I'll
S. r.i W.
Mere on the I'Slli o
howling, hriiij,'in;,' |)rii
had descended tiie .Vi 1
of tli(> lake to this plac
(•ollections made up t
forwarded up t he .\tli;
< >ii .Inly 3i)lli we a
south shore ,is lieforc
and lioat-lo;^ of t he no
l'"rom l''oiid du L ic e
a distance of nine ni
isl.iiuls lyiiii; oil' it, ar
varyiuit in strik<' from
is an island of compaci
trendini; S. 7"i W. 'I
posed of d.'irk Ljreeii we
S. (1(1 Iv at .111 allele i
.V C'liippowyati I iidi
from him we learned t
Malihit .Mountain Lak
this liike a larye river
\ short distance e
point, composed on it.s
<,'neiss oontainiiif,' a la
inner side it consists
ATIIAIIASCA l.\Ki;
(•,.", I)
Itiiy ( ;i>iii|Piuiy's iiit'ii tlicv moved acruss in thi' |i<iiiii nii llic suutli
sliurc, Tlie |)liu!t' WHS iit'tci'wiirdH iil)iiii(li)iit>i| until Is (."i, \\li(>ii Moi'-
fii'di iirrivcd imil liuilt tlu' |>i'fit'iit |ii>st. 1 1 is mi uiic nt' ilic pcinciiial
lines (if travel lit' tiie I'arrcii ( Ir'umid eai'llmci, in ilieir ii'milar iiiiura
tiiiiis riDi'lli and smitli.
Tlie varialiiin ut' (lie cdiniiass was liere t'ouiid tn lie ;i| K., and tlie
mean (it' two ol)<ecviltions takt'li in tlie yard of (lie poHt fietennined
the latitude at ."I'l l,s' riif.
The nick is a u'l'ay iiiiartzose giiriietiferous j^iuii.ss with rather
iire^iilar strike, hut neiieraliy ahout S. 7l) K., and a dip ahniiL
S. '20 \V. at an ani;le of \'> , It is cut l)y a nuniher of veins
of ii(l pi'i,'iiiatite. The surface is well scored hy glacial sti iie, trendiiiL;
S. :.i \V.
Here on tlio L'Stli of July, IH'.)'.', tlu^ writer was joined hy Mr. D. 15. .Ieiii.(l l.yMc.
I>(iwlinir, lii'inf,'in;,' provisions for tliu remainder of the journey. Ife
had desccndeil the Allialiasca ISiver. and had surveyed the south shore
of I he lake to this place. Ilisrejiort 'vill he found on a later |ia;;e. 'I'lie
collections made up to this lime were sent to l''orl Chippewvan, to lie
forwarded up the .\thaliasca l!iver and thence to (tttawa.
nn.lulyJJDlh we a;,'aiii started eastward, Mr. |)ow liiii; takini,' the
south shore a.s liefore, while tiic writ u' made a survey with compass
and lioat-loi; of the north shore.
I'ldiii I'liiiddu Lie east w.ird to the mouth of ( irease Mountain Kiver, '■(•ii-i- M.hiii-
,. ^. . ., , till lit 1 '■II" lii^'i'.
a distance ot nine miles and a-(|uartor, tho shore, aiul the many low-
islands lyiiii,' oil' il, art! composeil of f,'neis.s of very uniform character,
varying; in sti-ike from N. l"> to N. 70 I'). ( )11' the mouth of tin- river
is an island of comjiact j,'recii gneiss, .sliowing stroni,' i;lacial uroovini^a,
trendini,' S. 7'> W. The point oil' the mouth of (Jrease l{ivcr is com
posed of dark 1,'reeii well foli.itcd schist, stiikiiig N. ;iO i'), and dipping
S. fill !•;. at an ani.de of SO .
.V Chippewvan Indian was here met and eiiteitained to dinner, and • 'nn"' niutctn
1 ■ 1 111- 111 1 • • ''i" ""I'll-
troiii him we learned that his |ieople lia'l a canoe roule up this river tn
l!:il)l):l .Mount.dn Lake, on the edije of the iiarrcn (irounds, and from
this Like a lari,'e riser llows northw.ird into unknown country.
\ short distance east of (irease Uiver I'oiiit, is a rounded rocky (liuiictitVr<ms
point, comiiosed on it.s outer side of a dark-j,'reeii (j[arnotiferous hiotite- """''■■h''>'>ss.
(,'neiss (.•ontaiiiiiii; a larj^e (piantily of plagiodaso fels|iar, while on its
inner side it consists of a red, mui'h sheared gneiss, containing hut
04 1)
ATIIAHASCA I.AKK AND CHl'IiClllM, HIVKH.
Twii srts i.f
inrial striii'
M.,i
Ifi' iImiii
a sniiill iiinoiiiit nt' Ipioiilc, 'riic two uvo scpfiniti'il by a. f.iirly sliiii'p
vertioiil liiu.' of citiitiU't, stiikiii!.' N. Ci.") ]■]. |iHiiillcl to llic t'oliatinii of
tlic j,'ii('iss on ciicli side.
Half a mile fiiitliiT cast, on a small island olV a point, tin- ioi'k is a
dark-;;reiMi tliinly fn'iaicd ^^ainciift'idus liiotit('t;tii'iss, contaiiiint;
many iihcnocrysls of red orlliociasi". Tlic hiotitc is iariii'ly .lilcrwl to
cldoiitf. It is iiiryiilarly and sinuously foliatt'd, and i-ut l)y many
windini,' xcins of line plained comiiact icd uraiiitc. Tin; sui'faco is
smooth and slronL;ly nidoM'd in a diiiTtion S. "iS W.
I'"i\i^ miles and a ijnaitiT cast of (liiasc iJivci' Point, the sui'facc ot a
small i'laiid of similar iiiccn tliinly foliated jiiiciss shows clearly two
ilistinct sets of i;lacial sliia', an ciiiiiec one lien<linnS. ().") W., jiar-
allcl to the other slii.e seen almost t\ civ where aloiitj the shore, and
(loulitlcss made Ky the iee sheet from the northeast, and a later
one trendinij S. .'l") W , juoiiahly made \>\ a local j;laeier
(icsccndini; from the hi;.'h land to the north, after the !,'rcatcr ice sheet
had withdrawn. Half a mile further east, a |iorlion of the moraine of
this later local ulaeier mav l>e seen as a yreat stretch of Iuiltc liroken
masses of rock, foiniiiii,' a |iromincnt jioint, and coicrini;- the shore for
a considcralile distance lieyond it. Half a mile still further cast, on 'h(^
surface of |ior|)hyritic l)iotile tjiieiss, the same two sets of stria' are
i'\cn hettor shown, the older one, seen on Ice surfaces, runninu; S.
<)•') W. as l)ci' irc, while the later one, which is stron;,dy marked over,
the surface i;(Ml('rally, trends .•-;. '20 \V. across the lake tow.irds a
valley on its south shore. Athabasca hake is here livt; miles wide, a,nd
lies in a loni,' nariow valley with a steep satulstone escarpment be-
tween inO and 'lOd f'ct hi<,di on its south side. The later glacier
from the north tlowi d into tiie valley at this point, ami probably
rea<'lied across to the smith side, I'ompletely lilliiii; it and dammint,' up
the water fi-om the cast to the heij;iit of the sandstotK? plain on the
south, which is at about tie! level of the lii^di lieaehes previously
dt'scribed on the banks of Crec l<i\t'r anil aloii„- the west shore of
r?;iek Lake. The occurrence of an icedain across i!e valley accounts
fully for the foi'iner existence! of a larue like in the present basin of
lUack Fjake. Without the ice-dam, )r soiiu! other dam of which no
e\i(lenc(! can be f<iund, tlu! water of lUack Lake could not liaxc stood
niucli above its jirescnt li'\ I'l ill j,'lacial or pot ;,'lacial times for the
yreat valley of Athabasca Lake, which extends eastward to iSlack
Lak", dates back to a period lonj,' before the Lflacial epoch.
The rock on which the glacial striie are shown, is a dark line ^'laineil
bi<ititej,'iieiss, with small porphyrilic cry.stals of orthoulase, strikinj,'
TVRREll.. 1
S. 00' K. and
half a mile fa
N. 70 ]•;., an
Two miles
of very siniil
an<^l(> of 7") .
heavily jointi
i'"roin t his
I''., to a smal
pyroxene uiie
surface, stril'
no. interbi
larijc (|uant it
sandy island
beai'li of roiii
sian j)iiie. ( )1
as nil I -)' .-in
south, a ste(
stone rises to
tlio north Hi(
iiorit<', which
yood white s[
the points.
For twenty
width of one
The north si
of norite, ott
strik(! at the
Tn places it i;
atioii belli",'
lontiiludc 101
dark ^'reeiiis!
In thin secti
biotite, tli(! h
one tlirection
typical biotit
ffiieis.s cuts, (
The rocks
ally t.reiulinjj
5
LAKK \'I'II,\II.\S(;A.
()•") II
S. do' V). and (lii>|)iii>,' S. .'iO W. at an aiif,'l(M>t' .'57 . At iniother point,
half a inil(! farther cast, a similar iMirpliyritic ynciss lias a wavy strike
N. 70 1']., and a dip S. liO 10. at an ani;lr of ")") .
Two nnl(!s farther south-east, across a (U'cj) l)a
lii-l
1 rocky point
of ver\ siiiiilur i;neiss, strikini,' N. (iO Iv, and dippini; S. ."lO I'], at an
an,i,'le of 7i") . At, the point of tiii^ clilV it. lieconies very coarse and
iiea\ily jointed.
Ill this |)(piiit. a <icep l);iy was a^'ain crossr
H., It
sniiii
low hare islam
I of
ily >^>
(1, in a direction S. .'!■"> N^ii
th
iiiu'l iterous ortlioilionilnc-
pynjxene-uneiss or foliiited norite, weathering with a roiii^li pilled
surface, striking- N. 7<> K. and dippiiii;- S. liO V.. at an aiii^le of
"lO . Interhediled with the gneiss art^ some ipiartzite hands iioldini; a
aiije (niantity of pyi
rite.
.\ mile and iihalf to the south-east
1<
sandy isl.nid, on which c;inip was ]iit('lied for the iiiLcht, hehind a
Iieacli of roiuiilcd houlders, in open woods of liircli, spruct! and Uank-
sian pini
as .'.',1 1
Ol
iservatiiins on the sun taken here deterniiiied tlio latitude
am
i tl
le variation o
f th
le compass as
;i7 K. To th
south, a steep uiihroken esc.upment of liori/.onta! Athabasca sand- ,\
stone rises to a liei:;lit of het'
four
d ti
hundred feet ; while
ilmlu
mUt.
the north ihore is irreiiular and l)iH)keii, coiii])(>sed chiefly of foliated
norite, which rises into hills several hundred feet in height. Some
fjood wliiti^ spruce, up to fourteen inches in diameter, is urowiiii,' on
tlio points.
I'\ir twenty-three miles, the lake continues eastward with a L,'en(M'al
width of one mile, ihouyh towards tli(» end it e.\paii(ls to two miles_
T'lie north shore is indenteti with small hays and is chietly compostid
of norile, often hiu'lily i)la,L;ioclastic, folded in an easy anticline, tlui
strike at the different places lieinj; shown on the accompanyiiii;; map.
In places it is garnet iferous, and it is j^enerally well foliated, the foli-
• itioii heinu' distinctly hrmiyht out on the weathered surfaces. In
lonttitude lOti '-'0', there i^ a hiiili hill lieliind the shore, compiised of a
(lark ;;reeiiisli ;,'ray, compact, tiiie-^'iained. he;ivily jointed L;ranite. i ;,„iiiii.
In thin section it is seen to he composi'd of (piartz, orthocl.ise and
hiotite, the latter hein;,' fairly evenly diss(!iiiinated, and all oriented in
one direction. The tjuartz shows wavy extinction. J t is therefore a
typical l>iotite-<;raniie niiei.ss. On adjoinint; ] arts of the shore this
gneiss cuts, or is interl.uiiinated with, the i;reenish norite.
The rocks are almost evCiTwheri! glaciated, the glacial striu' gener-
ally trending westward, down the valley of the lak(>.
il' 11
()6 1)
ATIIAHASCA LAKE AM) CllUHCIIII.L lUN EH.
At the (vist end of t'.ie lake, is a gently rounded hill or ridge tweiity-
ii\e t'eet high, consisting of sand and a great number of uell-rounded
liouldeis, chietly of sandstiMie, though a few are of giuMss. The hill,
Mniaiiii( liill. wiiich now forms the east end of the lake, ajipoars to he niorainic, and
r
)l.;d)h
a small recession m iraine of the glacier thai llowed west-
Siiiitli >li<ii
waicl down the \alli'y.
,f The south side of th lake, fi-oni the miaith of Atliahasca IJiver to
Mu^K
chill iictir.
here, and the lower ei avs
if the streams that tl.)\v in:o it, were ex-
ined and surveyed liy Mr. Dowlini
d 1
lis rejjort is as follows
Tiie
streams entorin'' Athabasca l!i\er fr
tl
le east are smal
with the exception of the Clearwater, which drains a considerable por-
tion of the country lying to the north-east of l'"ovt McMui'ray. The
hills that form the watershed between the streams flowing northward
to Lake Athabasca, westward to Atliaba?ica Itiver or southward to
t'learwater Itivor, are irregularly scattereil o\('r the suiface of the
rllilt-. jiliiteau, but are spoken of
dly by the Indians as the Muskeg
M
ountams or
lii
The source of the Clearwater ]{iver is near that
Lak
e, near its west
of Old Fort ]{iver, which empties into Atliab;
end or just east of Athabasca lliver. In the spring of the; year the
Indiii
itl
ans, witli small canoes
11
sed f
rom one o
f th
ese streams to
the other, by a portage which takes them two diys to cross. Ity a
I.
]):)rtago they can cross from the headwaters of C
carwater
Kivfr to l-'ire-bag Uiver, the largest stn
between l-'ort McMurrav and its mouth
iterin'' Athabasca Uiver
Firi'-hnij Ji'inr.
"This stream, though not of any considerable si/e, has in the lower
part of its course cut a deep \alley through the niodilied drift and
sands of the plateau, and in its l)ed are exposed rocks of Cretaceous and
l)e\(inian age. The surface of these rocks rise but slightly abo\e the
ilood ])lain of the Athabasca Uiver, so that low exposures only are
seen, while the main exposures of the escar]inients in the v.ailey are of
the overlying drift a.id stratified deposits extending southward from
Lake Athabasca basin.
" Foi' twc ' : miles abi ve its mouth, the stream occupies a wide \'alley,
winding from side to sioe, cutting into the banks, but ex|)osing mdy
sands and <'lays, apparently either redeposited river silts and sands or
matei'iul slidden from the sides of the valley. Higher up the stream
small exposures of l)e\onian limestone are found in its bed, causing
rapiils or small falls. The first one shows horizontal beds of hard
thin-bedded liuu
signs of fo.ssils.
stone, resemblin:
Winnipegosis, ;u
Sulphurous sj)rin
yellowish to oran
ashy gray.
"At the Forks,
the most clearly d
against the east b;
in the clays and si
forming the platea
fl • of the vallev
' tar sand.' I'\irt
carried away by gl
the surface of the
" The section at t
as follows ; —
!. Stratitici) s:
J. .Sinitilicilcl
:!. Till s.ni.l II
"(1) The beddii
satur.ited with tar.
irregular shape are
half is false-bedded
of the iieds and ser
"(L') At tlie top
nates with thin piirt
in thickness and in
middle of the expos
approaches shale in
the lower part and
the ' tar sand,'
TvunEU ] FIKKli.VO lilVKK. G7 D
thin-bedded liiiiestoi>o containinj^ triii-us of ntvomalopura, but no otlier Divdninn
signs of I'ussiis. In this vicin'ly, the top bed oidy is of condlino lime-
stone, resembling somewh<at the lower part of the Devonian of Lake
Winnipegosis, and below this are thin beds in a shattered condition.
Sulphurous springs were noticed issuing from these. The to]) bods are
yellowish to orange in colour and the lower ai'e bright yellowish to
ashy gray.
"At a distance of eighteen miles in a south-easterly direction from
its mouth, the stream divides, the smaller branch coming from the
north-east and apparently di'aining nearly all the country as far as tiie
head-wateis of .lacklish River, which enters the delta of the Atha-
basca. The main stream continues in the same south-easterly direction,
coming from the hilly country near the sourei; of Clearwater liivor.
" At the !'\)rks, the sections in the banks of the valley are perhaps
the most clearly ilelined of any in the district. The stream, impinging
against the east bank, has cut it away and foi'nied a steep escarpment
in the clays and sands, e.xposing over 140fe(!tof the stratified deposits
forming tiio plateau. The Devonian limestone, which has formed the
lloor of the \alley fur five or six miles, is here overlain by four feet of 'I'mi- siimi.
' tar sand.' [''urther down the river this sand seems to have been
carried away by glacial action, leaving occasionally small patches on
the surfaci' of the limestone.
" The section at the forks of the Fire-bag Kiver, is in descentling order, Sictimi of
as follows ;— il,.|„,>,ts.
1. Striititii'il s:iiiil , W (<-<-X.
2. .Stnititicdcliiy li> "
;!. Tiir sand (DiiK-nta) I •'
"(1) The bedding in this is accentuated by dark streaks of sand
saturated with tar. In tin? u|)per part, nodules and small pieces of
irregular shape are arranged on the lines of bedding, while the lower
half is false bedded, but the tar streaks ajipear as saturated poitions
of the beds and serve to strongly mark the nature of the bedding.
"(■_') At the top a line I'ed clay, in streaks three inches deep, alter-
nates with thin partings of gray clay, (iradualiy the red bands decrease
in thickness and in three or four feet the whole mass is gray. The
middle of the exposure is a hard clav slightly darker in colour and
approaches shale in compactness. A few small pebble> \vere seen near
the lower part and the clay smelt of petroleum, and probably rests on
the ' tar sand.'
5J
I- ■ .
* i ili
11
G8 I)
ATlIAUASrA LAivK AND CHUKCIIIM, lilVKU
<;i,-ici:il >tr
I'.i^.' I'..iiit.
(II. 1 Knrt
<ll<l I'.iit
Stiatitiivl
ola\>.
" At a short distance from this exposure, tlu! limestone (Devonian)
was ajjain seen, showing tiie ' tar iand ' (Dakota) rcstinj^ on its surface,
so that in tlic precedirn,' section the limestone was probal)ly at no great
dejitli.
" The suifaee of the limestone was striated in a direction about west-
south-west and in the lower part of the valley boulder clay was seen
at the i)ase of the sections or beneatli the stiaiilied clays and sands.
"The surface of th • country is covered with a small growth of
Bank.iian pine, while in the valley sj)ruce and occasional l)lack poplai'
and i)irch »vere seen. "
77/1? Smilli S/ioi-i' iif Liikr A/iiiilxi.tca.
" Just to the east of the delta of At'-abasca l{ivei', a high ridge comes
out to the lake on the point near ti. ; mouth of f)ld l'"ort Uiv; i-. 'I'lie
ridge is proV)ably of morainic material, ])Ut is tlanked by terraces of
gravel and santl. fts trend is S. 1%. ;ind N. W., aiul it forms a divide
between the waters discharging by the Old I'ort River and those of the
Jacklish Uivei', running on the west.
'• The outlying islands are composed luaiidy of loose material, (loose
Island is low, and is made up of sand and gravel with sandstone boulders
on the shore. The islands in the bay east of Big Point are similarly
composed of loose material.
"Old Fort Point is formed by an oval hillci sand and gravel similar
to the islaiuls, but connected with the main land b^-a low si.ipof ground
Hanked on botii sides by marshy and swampy tracts, forming bays on
either side. In the eastern bay, whicl. is much the deejier, a small
stream enters. This is found to come from the south, and is rejioi'ted
as being much longer than any of the streams entering the south si(U»
of the lake. It is known locally as the Old Foi-t Kivcr, and seems to
have a larger tlow of water than the l''ire-bag or William rivers. In
its low<!r part it cuts through the later deposits and reaches tiu>
Athabasca .sandstt>ne, whicli here a))pearv in be<ls lyir.gabout hori/ontal.
The higher land south of Old l''orl Hay, lies about four miles from the
mouth of the stream, an<l the sections made in it by the river show
seventy-five feet of stiatiC'd sand lying above ten feet of fint; blue
clay a part of the similar section seen on the Kire-bag liiver, except
tlij't here, the r(Hl colour at the top of the c.ay is wanting, and no tar
was notic'd in the sand.
"At a distance of eight miles from the lake, solid rock is met for the
lirst time, in the bed of the stream, li is in the form of a line-grain 'd
TlHRELL.T
and very liarci san
of Eastern Canadi
beds, lying alumt
of this rock, and f
over a nund>er of .
strip of smooth w,i
"The hills, attl
apiM'ar in ri<li.|.s n
the river, show till
to a nn'.vtuie of ic,
from the disinteg
stratified dej.osits
<in the uneven surf;
above the stratified
"'I'lie sandstone
liasca, .It Stone I'l.ii
iie.xt point fi\c niile
and Stone Point,
generally low and
south-west from St
it. This spit is co
ha\e encroachei! so
" The shore east w
sand iicLch with .s
empties about half
which is the most |
formed is call,.,! |'„i,
near its extreme nor
*m the eastern side o
'■ llii' Athabasca s
its nujuth, and tlienc
the river was exploret
feet, in short cascades
low llat sand-plaiir, •
spruce. Tire higher
tinuat'on witii the m,
sarrd, forrrurrg a plate
exploralioir. 'I i:c r
■]
ATlIAIl.VfSC.V I.AKK.
r,9 D
Atlmli,
UK'.
l;.'(ll><
(■lav.
luldcr-
jind veiy hard siimlstoiio, .siiniliu- in tt'.xtiuo to tlie Pot.sdiini .sandstinie
of Ea.stcrn Canada. It is liniit coloured, wcatlicrinj; ruMly, and in thick
hods, lyinn al)out horizontal. 'J'ho river has cut down to th<; surface
of this rock, and for a considcial.ile distance above this the stream falls
over a nundxu' of steps, forniini; small ca.scadcs at eacli heil with a short
strip of smooth water helween.
"The hills, at the distance of eiijht ndles and a half from the lake,
appear in ridi;es runniiiLj W'.S.W. and I'i.N.lv, and \\ Ikmc ■ uI into hy
the river, show till and houlders with a colouring of red, d'ii)t)tless due
to a mixture of red sand and sandstone fragments, pi ohahly derived
from the disintegration of a red sandstone in the vicinity. The
stratified deposits s(>en in the lower part of the valley were laid down
on the uneven surfaced) the till and th' hills in some cas(!s protrudi'
alpov(! the stratified heds.
"The sandstone is exposed again on llu; shore of Lake Atha- Stmn I'liint.
i)asca at Stone Point, and loose blocks of large si/e are found on the
ne.xt point live ndles farther east. The shore "jet ween < )ld |'"ort Point
and Stone Point, or Pointe de Hoche, east of Old I'ort l'>ay, is
generally low and marshy, but a long s|)it or point extending to the
south-west from Stone I'oiiit, incloses a ]iiirt of the bay to the east of
it. This spit is coscred by sand hills and on the lake side the waves
lia\(' eiicroachec! so that (here is a continuous low clilVof sand.
'• The shore eastward to the narrows is very monotonous, geuer.ally a c;'liiu:iit(i' of
sand beach with sand clill's just behind. William Kiver, which ^',|'|',y''^' "'
em])ties about half way along the south shore, has foiined a delta Willi.iiu
which is the most prominent feature on this side. The pohit thus
formed is calle(l Point William, and the iriouth of the sire.im is found
near its extreme north-westei'n end. A small channel also comes out
on tluM'astern sid(> of the point."
Willi It III River.
'• The Athabasca sandstone is iiLet in this stream twelve miles above
its mouth, and thence upwards for seventeen miles, which is as far as
tli(( river was explored. The river in this distance falls about forty-eight
feetr, in short cascades over the i)eds of sandstone. Tin; delta is mostly a
low tiat sand-jilain, covered with IJanksian piiu- and occasional black
spruce. The higher ground is found to connnence (.n a line in con-
tinuation with the main shore, and consists of a great thickness of Sainlsinur.
sand, fornung a jilateau extending to the south, past the limits of our
exjiloration. 'J i;e section in the river-valley shows hori/oiitally
,il ^ !
4 !
f, 'I
iii.. '
ro I,
ATIIAIIASCA LAKi: AM> CIH'HCri 1 1.1. HIVKI!.
TvnNEll.,
linnldn
riil}.'i'>-.
Atlmliasc
siliulstdlli
Kisli M.
tains.
stifititied hiimtl n\> to ahuut (iiic liuiidrcd feet, hut on tlic .siiri'dci' of tlu;
plateau, wliicli i.s ino.stly bare, sand-liill.s iis(^ in some eases nearly a
liuadred f(>et al)o\o the tjeneral level. Oeeasiorinlly on the summits
of these hills lai't;e ))oulders oc ani.'iiliii' fragiiuMils of ii
iliii'k "inv I'neiss
are toiind
A liouldef liilye, which seems to be bem^ath and protrudini; tiircjuyh
es the fiver about nineteen miles from its mouth.
le sands, cross
Tl
IS ridj^e IS made u]i ot nior(^ rounded matei'ia!, and seems
to b<
■ontiiniation ot a lii>;li ri
(It;.' or .-t
ries of loiif; hills which lie to the
( ast, called the l''ish Mountains. These hills are |)robalily of the same
character .as th(" ispiitinows aimind ( 'I'cc and IMack lakes. .\bo\i'
the ridi,'!' the surfaces is more even and coNcrcd with a sni.all j,'rowtli of
Hanksian pine.
"At th<' tirst rapi<ls the barrier is found to be a li-^'ht coloured band-
.sto:ie, in thick
leds ivm
about horizontal. No li'ace of fossils c(ail<l
tound m any ot the
beds. Two ;nul t hrcr-ciuaiter' mi
first rapid about liftcen feet of s.indstone 1
icds are exposec
lies all
(1. Til
til
beds arc stained rf>(l and ]iinkish, while the upper ones ;ire of coarser
Lirani a
11(1 linhtcr in colour, a ad six to fii,'lit feet ihi(
\\
love the
boulder ridji;e, at ,i fall of li\t' feel, the s,iiid.stone seems sli;;htly dis-
turbed and is dippini,' S. at an ani;le of ."> the beds show some local
false-beddini,', but the textui-e and i;ener;d appe.'irance is similar to the
last, (;
aciai striie run .■>.
W
r.et
wc(>n the moutli (
.f W
illiam liner .ind
ie,i\ r l\i\ei
th.
shore is \eiv rej,'ular, broken in only one ]iliice by a prominent
point, 'i'his is a small hill of i;ia\t'l and sand which idinos! forms an
island, but is connected to the m.iinl.ind by is\o b.irs of .>aii(l inclosin;,'
a small pond. Tli ainlry behind risi's more .iiiriiplly. The l''ish
Mountains or Hills ;,?-e seen as a wooded I'id^e L'OO feet hi^'h about live
miles iul.'ind, .and are the cd^r,. ,,f a hij;her plat( au which Lrradually
ijiproaches the lali
lie. At i'l'avci' IJiverthis hi
iiintiy
;h
to within .1 short disi.in f its mouth, and the lower part of the
stream cut- a short u'oryc throui,'li it, in which are ni.iny fills and
ra]iids. The Indians call this stream the (Jrarid l!a]iiils iJiver, and it
is |irobable the rixcr iiere falls o\er a consi(lerabl(> series of saiidstoin!
steps, as the surface of the sandstone terrace seems to ri-e rapidly
toward the e.ast.
•' A small section was seen on the lake, se\'enteen miles west of
Beaver Kivei, at the m >uth of a .small creek.
" The section
biK'lit trri'vi-l
"f "> ill. :ii
llp'keii till.
fiills nisily.
til.- I.,.,|
'I'llill sliiily >..|
tllill pint,.-
.\t lli|. Iiase :i
tl' ciint.iiii II
lii;lil ^'ri'i.ii I
" I'rom Poplar
iiel, the south sin,
low, mostly boidd
behind. Occasion,
]'oplar Point is uim
ridi,'e of fr,ii;ments
seen on ,a small isl
" The hii,'h escarp
shore east of Kond
stone beds with jios
exposed in a seri(>s i
feet. Near the to)
point ( IT) miles ea.st
The bed.s lanye from
a hard pinkish sand,«
oruaiiic. This escai
approaches the east
iioiih forms a narrov
river like -iret.-li of \
on the summit of tin
and ;500 feet. It w.i
a thickness of (i\cr •
to the west sii that iv
dined to about the If
Stone Uiver Hows
around the north siiU
boundary of the lake,
the r;re;it \allev betv
T^nHEi-i.] ATIIAIIASCA LAKE. 71 D
" Tlif? section is 12 ft, 10 in. in lliiclvnosH, .md is coiiiposod of: — Sictimi nf
-Mllll-tuMi'
lirlir liclviT
I.itjlit (.'riiyi-'li-vi'llii"' tn wliifc saii(lstiini\ imt very liiinl. in lirils l.'ivrr.
nf .■) in, iiTid ('( ill,, splittiiif,' lliimiir, ( 'li':iva)>i' i-nick.-< liavr
lii'"l\i'ii tln' IicmIh into liliicks 1 tu 2 ft, scpiaii'. sd tli:it tlii' wlmli-
fulls easily. A fi'W ^'ri'i'ii iKiiliilis lire fduml sriitti'inl tlilnngli
till' licl 7 ft,
'I'liiii sliiily siiii(l.>it('iu'. K''''''" I'li'l ''''il niMttlid, split rradily intu
thill plat.-. ."p ft,
.\t the liasi' a lii'd of li^dit colniiri'd Hiii'^'iaiiicd smidstniic is fmind
111 I'cint.iin many .small disc-like iiddiilcs (if iili'j,'iilar sliapr, nf a
lifrlil trri'i'n I'luity matiiial 10 in.
" I'^'oni Poplar I'oint to it.s oast end, the lake lies in a narrow chan-
nel, the south shoi'e of which, for fifteen miles east of I'^ond du Lac, is
low, mostly houlder-covered, with a lii^h escarjjmcnt of saniislono
behind. <)ccasi<pnally small low e.\[iosures of sandstone are found.
I'oplar I'oint is undeilain \>y sandstone anil the shore is made up of a I'nplar Pnint
ridjje of fragments of this rock, ('oaisf grained sandstone beds are
seen on a small i-jlund near the point.
"The high escirpmeiit I'ising to the south of tlu! lake comes out on tin,' i:~(aipmi nt
shore east of l''on<l du La.c, and -.erms there to he nearly all of sand- " ~'
stone heils with possibly a ca]i of till. On the shore the sandstone is
exposed in a scries of steps, rising gr.adually back to a height of eighty
feet. Near the t()]i of the hill the beds ai'e .seen again and at this
l)oii>t (1.") miles east of the post) the thickness e.\])osed is 1 L'O feet.
The beds range from eight inches to two feet in thickness, aiul are of
a hard pinkish sandstone with a few o\al impressions which may be
oiganic. This csc.ir|iini>nt seems gradually to rise to the e.ist as it.
approaches the east end of the lake, and with the high land to the
nnrlh forms . a narrow gorge in which tli.' lake is coiillned to a narrow
liver like st leti'h of water. .\iigles of elevation were taken on ti'ees
on the sunniiit (if the ridge in t \wi places, giving heights ,if l.'il feet -I'lij^.i^,,,,^^ ,,f
and .'500 fcf^t. It would thus aiipear that the sandstone lieie attains Atliatiasca
a thickness of i)\er |l)0 fe"t. and that the surface has ,i slight dip
to the west so that at the mouth of th(> .Vthabasca Kiver it has de-
clined to about the l.ike Icvi'l,"
S/(iitr Rinr.
Stone Kiver llows iiuierly into the east end of Lake .\thabasca
around the north side of the morainie riilge that foi ms the eastern
boundary of the lake. It comes from the eastward in the bottom of ( ;,.,,,,, valliv.
the gre.it valley lietwcen the highly altered Archican rocks to the
4
( > • ',
' 1;
'. 1 1
; iS 1;
7:: II
ATIIAIIASCA I.AKK AND ClUItCIIII.I- lilVKIi.
Hill Mf nurli.
1,M» l.aiil.-.
I'ir-l |Mprl,iu''
nni'tl), and tlie comparatively uiialtorod Athalmsca sandstdiics to tho
soutli, a \allcy wliirli, farllicr west, lias bfcii sliuwu to he OLi'iipicd liy
Atiialiasca l<aki' itself.
' >|i|iosite the iii()i'aini(,' ri'';;e, (he north iiaiik ot' the river consists of
a nia>s of ho'ildc held' 'lieli is a hill L'TO feet, hiL'li, of daik yray
foliated norile, tl ' v,;v;-,.i: on of rthieh comes out strongly in weather-
in,!;, and is general i;' :ln,•^ less iiori/ontal. Fn thin section, tins
noritt! is seen to he c ■';'..)f-,i .^r 'dy (jf orthoihomhic pyroxene, [n
]>laces tlm surface is ijuite sniw .. iind siiows stroni; tflacia! ^'rooves
tren<lin^' X. SO W. Tile sides of tht! hill aiv. wooled with small hircli
and [)oplar, while its stmiiiut is hare of cverytiiin;,' hut a little black
lichen.
FrocM'odinj; eastward, ll<' ri\er is found to have an axcraije width of
fiMin 201) to ."500 yards ; tjic hanks are Ioa- aiul overhunj; with willows,
ami 1,'eiier.illy consist o' alluvial c'ay, hut a point on the south side,
four nnles ahove the mouth, is composed of similar foliated noiiti^ or
pyroxene irneiss, striking,' S. )S0 I-^ ind dippini,' N. 10 lv.it an ant,'le
of -J.J .
Ahove this point the cui'rent hi'comes i,'radually Htroni,'er', to the foot
of a rajiid with a de>c(;nt of about eiuht fet;t. The canoes were landed
at a sandy !)each on the north bank just below the rapitl, and from
this beach a ]porta;;e (JdO yards in li'nj;th was made throut;h pine woods,
over stitr clay and rock, to a liay hehintl a rovnided boss of rock at
the head of the rapids. 'I'he rock is a dark-;,'ray Ihuvfjrained norite,
weathering to a very liyht ;,'ray colour, and in jilaces 8lij.ditly foliate(l
S. .'{.")° E. The summits of the knolls show distinct ;,dacial urooves
trending' N. (iO W. .lust west of the ln'ad of the poila^e, a roundeil
hill of sinular <,'neiss rises boldly to a lieij^dit of ITjO feet out of the
middle of the valh^y, its sides i,'reen with small pojilar, birch, and pin(!
through and o\er which the smooth rock, blackiMied with lichen,
projects in rounded bosses. ( )n both sides of the hill a wide bottom-
land, wooded with pine and po])hir, stretches away to sloping hills, tlie
sky-line to the south being oven, that to the north rugged and broken.
'J'lie low banks of the river are ((verhung with willows.
.\bove the rapid the river o|iens into a wide lak(!-like expansion,
into the north side of which Carp Hiver empties. Tlii.s stream is a
hundred feet wide, and its water is white with suspf^n led clay.
Above the moutii of Carp I'iver, a prominent point projects into the
north side of the; lake. Tlii- rock compo.'^ing the point is a dark line-
gi'aiiii'd massive uhk
hornblende and pi;igi
titaiuferous iron ,nr
tered from pyroxene,
riorife composing mo
ciiart/itic granit(^ rui
fid of tile l,,„g point,
.i,'n)ove,| in th(!directi
the south-east, and tli
Above this p„i„t th
creases, until it change;
At a point on ij,,, „,„
foliated gneiss, strikin-
(:(mtaet with the <lark ^
just where III,, river tui
.■ii:d (lows betwe,.,, boss,
consists of narrow dvk(
■'Straight along the rivei
tJirougha reddish gn.'ixs.
They nls,, cut the gneiss
A humlred yards back, ii
1"'0 feel hi-h. uf the's,
Threo-ipiarters of a mil
broken "water, we came tc
wiMch the water has a tot
'■>^abe,uitiful<.ase:ide wh,.,
j<"'iied amphib.lii,., an<l
Miles of ,1 ,ugi,'ed rocky is!
consists of green and ivd f,
^'- l'-' i:., at an angle of ]
A -piarter of a mile h,>l,
the .'anoes were pushed i
swampy flat to the be-inni
we rousc'd a woodcock {/'/,
cios.sed it, this bird i)eing ,
Opposite th.. end of the
rather coarse-grained amp!
flirection, and sp„tt,.d with c(
It is cut by veins of red g,
contains many large crystal
.STOSl', IIIVKli.
r.\ l>
gruiiKHl niiissive nmch-jointed t;ariiotit'on)us anipliiholite, uoiisistiiii; of AMiplnixilnc
liortil)lt'ii(li' jiiid planiocliisii, with ii liir;,'e luimhcr uf Karnots ami sonii)
titaiiifcrous iron ore. As the lioriil)ieiul<; would si'tMii to have been al-
UtmI from pyroxene, tliis roek is prohalily a niotlilied form of tlie
riorite eomposinj? most of this sliore. It is eul l)y wide bands of
(;uart/itie granite runninij S. 00 I"]. The surface of tlie roeU, at tlie
end of the long |)oint, and elose to tlie wuler, is well polished and
grooved in tho direction N. o.") \V., the smooth I'ounded surface facing
the south-east, and the jn^'Ued broken one the Tiorth-west.
Abov(^ this point the ri\-er ;^radually narrows, and tho current in-
creast!s, until it ehanges loa swift narrow stream with steep rocky walls.
At a point on the north baid<, thr(>e miles further up stream, a red
foliated j^neiss, striking N. l').") ]■]., ,ind with xcrtical dip, is in irregular
coi\taet with th(! dark green massi\c aiiiphiliolite. A mile farther up,
just wliert! the rivei' turns sharply to the south, the str.ani is narrow
and Hows betwe-ii I losses of .Xrehiean rock. 'The roek on the north side
consists of narrow dyke like bands of dark-griiy amphibolile, striking
straight along the river. These bands are almost xci'tieal, and run
through a reddish gnei^^s, whieli is well banded in ihi^ sam(Miirection.
They also cut the gneiss ii-reguliii'ly, and send ii'regidar arms itito it.
A hundred yards back, across a little swamp, is ;i rugged vertical clifT
\')0 feet hii;h, of the same dark greenish-gray amphibolite.
Three (juai't'rs of a mile abo\ e the bend, having passed through rapid
broken water, W(( eanu; to the foot of a sei'ies of very hea\y I'apids, in
whieh the water has a total fall of abmit 1(10 feet. The lowest rapid
is a beautifid easeade wherc^ the water tumbles over a ledge of irregularly
jointed amphib iliie, aiul then rushes in two narrow gorges on both
si<les of a rugged roeky island. .\ small islaiul a shiit distance b(>low
consists of green and red foliated gneisses sirikiiiL; S. 7"' 1'". and dipping
N. IT) ]■]., at an angle of ''> .
A cpi'ii'ter of a mih^ below the fool of the rapid, on the south bank,
the canoes were pushed in among the willows over a soft muddy,
swamjiy tlat to the beginidng of W'oodcoi'k Portage, so called because
w(^ roused a woodcock {I'liilnlula niiiior), in one of the swamjis as we
crossed it, this bird i)(Mng exceedingly rare so far north.
((ppositc the end of the ])ortav.'' is a ocky knoll consisting of dark,
rather coarse-grained amphibolite, generally foliated in an easterly
i direction, and spotted with conspicuous clusters of eryst.ds of horid)lende.
it is cut by veins of red gneissic grainte, neir which the amphibolite
contains many large crystids of garnet.
Il.niy niimls
\V..u,l,.,,(.k
1 .iltMKC
'<4'
'/*•■.
1 I>
ATHAIIAHCA r.AKi; ANI> flllJItC II I r I, mVKIt.
rvKxiu.
. Iltl.
M:ii>
I'-
I.;ilo
Kli/,;i
I '..It;
i.ith
WcKidciick I'otliij,'!' liiis a lutiil li'ii;,'lli ut' 11)1 stiilutd iiiilos. It is on
I lie wliiilc scry IiikI, liaviiii,' loiij^ HtrcitclicH of .swiimii, and steep liills,
tlio sidi's of wliii'li ar(* oovcrtMl witli ln'okdii masses of rough saadstoiic
derived from the uiulerlyiii;,' niek. In tiie tirat iiiiarler of a iiule tlie
iiiniost im)iei'ee|)til)le traek leiids ii|i the face of a steep elilVof coarse
Atliaimsea saiidsloiie, strewn with sliar|i itni;ular masses inokeii fi'om
roeky ledges, u)) wiiicli it was necessary to c.irrv tiie sii|i|ilies in iiaif
loads. A liundred feel up the face of the clilTis a moih'i'aleiy rej^ular
terrace, appai'eiitly represent iii;i; an oh! siiore Hue of li.ike .\thahasea,
wlien it stood at one of its iiii;iier stages. l'"roni tiie top of tlie sand-
stone escarpment a maj^nilicent \ iow may lie liad down tlie wide valley
wliicii wo had just iisceiuled from liako Athahasca. 'i'owaids the
noi'th rise the rounded Areluean hills, wliile to the soutli is the sinuouH
ed;;e of the hi^'h escarpment of stratified sanilston(\ MetwefMi is tho
j,'enlly sloping' wooded \alley, in the hottom of which lllack Kiver
winds as a ioni; i,'litteriiiLC line of water.
l''iom tiie summit of I lie dill of sandstone the port a j,'(^ track descends
into a deep marsh and then passes throu<.;h a tamarack swamp. It then
passes for two thirds of a mile over a sandy plain in piact's lij^htly
undulatini;. wooded with small Manksian pines, to some hills of white
sandstone. I >n the summit of one of these lh(> rock is heautifuily
smoothed, and shows L;lacial yrooves, trendiiiL! N. 70 VV. I'Vom tho
font of this hill, a slopinit plain extends eastward for UTjO yards, declin-
im; in this distance thirty feet. The plain is thickly scattered with
boulders, chielly of saiidstiuie, aii<l con;,'lcimi'rate. iuit some of !,'neiss.
The edije of the ]iliin drops suddenly in a little cliil of <'lay twehe ft-et
iiii,'li. to a iiiirrow willow-covered tiat on the margin of Middle I^ake.
Aliout a i|Uarter of a mile to the north, tiie river llo« s out of tiie north
end iif the lake to the heavy rapids helow.
Middle Lake was crctssed in a southerly direction for two miles and
a-(|U.iiter. to a sandy lieach, where the canoes were attain uiilo.idid
)ire)iaratoiv to carryimr everything; over I'jli/aheth l'orta!,'e. The
micrciinetcr survey showed the leiii,'th of this portaiie ti^ he ,">•."):!
miles, and the aneroids showed its southern etnl at lilaik L.ike to he
r_'0 feet nliovo its northern end at Middle Lake. (Senerally speakinj{
the track is sandy, dry and hard, so that, altlioui;h it. is nearly twice
as loiii,' as Woodcock Portaj,'e, it may he crossed with less ditliculty
and fatigue, thoujih in bright weather one is tormented by myriads of
black tlies. No rock of any kind is to be; seen on ttu; portaj^e. The
followinj,' jiaced survey will i,'ive a jjood idea of tlie character of the
portage, l.'()00 paces heiny counteil to each statute mile.
From the sandy
•Jli.") |ri(|.
» DMT 11
;i!C. ..
IlldClT
\\l
•.'.•>( 1 •■
aiMiws
|«I0 "
k'fiillv
1 1 '
M
IS.-) ..
..^illiil:!
"•">
Id a
Ih
80 ■■
mTDMf
10.-.0 ..
alliiD>
M
.|1>() ..
up il !
i:io ..
1'
U\..l
2'-'< '
in a )
17SI) .•
(ivcr
n
42(» '
:it>ll)
as:, ■
tllI'Dl
f
4;«t
D\cr
Kill
. ,l..w
The .ibove de.s<
beaches and sa
Middle Lake, l
Lfike Athabasca,
the morainic rid;
the glacier from
or whether it ha
and what connei
the glacier wliie'
liac, were (juest:
dispf)sal.
Kli/abeth I'oi
tho lowest of wl
Falls, from hav
of that name,
lenf^th, biokeii
The north l)aiil
gently to soin
Ifpf
HTONK II I VEIL
(•1 IP
From tho Hiindy lieiioli ot' Middle Fiiiku-
•_'li."i ip'uc's iiviT II -aiiily pl'iiii wiiimIkI wiili liaiil>Niiiii |iiiii'.
U!l."i " niiii'iTlltily li'Vrl |i|;iiu (if »:iiiil iiinl liniKin iriii''^i'n df H uiiIhIiiiici',
WixhIi'iI with Hiiiali piiii'.
L'.M) " aciciHM s\Miiii|i iitiilii'lalii liy liniUni iiii).'iilai' iiiasi-rK of Haiiil-tipiic.
■4(10 " gi'iitly riMiii>.' sandy |ilaiii, uikhIciI uilli s'liiiti'd piiirM two feet liivrli,
to a low >aiicl\ I'litr, till' 111 ill f wliicli is alioiit lifty fnl almvi
Miiliili' lial«>.
\K'i " Hiiiiilac sandy plain alioiit tm tVi'l lii),'lMT.
7.") ■' 111 a swift lirooli twchr fiit widr and two fict dci'p "illi sandy
liottoni.
HO " aiToss sHaii.p to sandy lianii tfii fret hi^'li.
Jll.MI " almost li\rl III- piilly riHin>f sandy plain, opni or cimrid witli
sIlMltl'd pillrs tWll fret llijfll.
■IJO " up II slijtlit risr, and ovcf ii sandy plain lliiiin>,'li woods i,f liaiilisian
pinr.
IIIll " lip a siniilai' ri~i', and omi' a similar w led sandy plain.
L'LTi ' in II small \allrv ln'twcrn sandy I'idu'i-s.
1780 " oviT a tliinly wooilid sandy plain, till' lii~t liKl paces lifinj,' aloiiu' tin-
nortli sidr, anil at tlin foot, of, a stii p v. lid slonr, at an I'Irvii-
tilin of idioiil I.M) fi'i't aliov<' Miildli' l.akr.
■CJO " iiloiiK a ^.'laM'llx slopr, with ii hill to thr Koiith loo I'lrt liihdi.
|S."i '• tliroiiKli Miiiiilsof sniall lianUsian pini' omt sand and piliMi's, at tlii'
tool i.f till' hill si'Vi'iity fi'ct hikdi.
•i:ii ui- Moodril (oiintiv thicUly stivwn uilli Imiildirs. lias all llii'
appi'iiianci' of a nioraiiiii' riilK'i''
Hill " down till' sidi' of a hill tliicklv Mird with lioiildrrs, with a drop of
alioiil folly fcrt, 111 till! lianU of ,Sti,ni' Uivn-, just wliiTr It lli.WH
from lllark r,aKi'.
Tlic .d)i)ve d(«.sf!'i|itiuii shows tlie exist oiico uf fxtonsivo post-f^lficial I 'ost glacial
hoaeiu's iiiid sand |iliiiiis, from twenty tn a iiiiiidi'(>d feet ahovc "'•"'"""•
Middle Lake, inarkiiii; lii;,'liei' stai;i's of llie wlidie m- part of
Lake Atliiilmsca, and lliey woidd ap|ieai' tn !)• clusidy connected wilii
the muiainic tidi^e at tlie south east end of the portii.i;i'. ISiit whethiir
the i;lacier froiii the east stood at tliis lid^e wlicn tiiey weie foiiiied,
or whethcf it had tiien
(led fiirtlier towards the east of iiort ii ciist.
d
and what connection thert; is lu'twcen these lieaches and tei'i'ace.''
the ^{lacier wliicli hiocked the valiijy a short distance east of Fond du
Lac, were (juustions that it was impossibli! to settle in tlie time at our
disposal.
Eli/alieth l'()ftai,ai is made to avoid a Ioiilt chain of impassable raiiids. I'llizuln i
the lowestr of which, near the foot of the L'ori'e, I have called ICii/abeth
falls.
Fails, from havini; visited tlie snot on the birthday of a belov
c(l sister
of that name. The river here furiiis a wild rapid about a mile in
leni.'th, broken by hca\y cascades and falls, eij;ht to ten feet in heijilit.
The north baidc, thickly wooded with black spruce and birch, rises
gently to .some distant green hills, the sloi)e being underlain by
ji
IP
Clllolitir
lila
LaK(
I'nltil
I )> n
ATII.MIAMCA I.AKi; ASn ( IIIIIUFI I t.l, IIIVKIi.
Iiiic j'niniiMl iliii'K,
<l<livll
;,'flilifl it'cl'oiis lllll'l|l)l(>n(lt^^ll(■isM. 'I'lic
wiutli sido of tli(» \iillcy is i'(iiii|iost'(l i)t' rt'il, li<iri/.i)iitnlly Mtriiti(i(>(l siiiid-
stonr, wliicli rises in abrupt Imii' cliU's, ot'icn Nci'tinii, to ii li('ij,'iit, ot'
1 00 tVi'l iiltovc tilt- wilier. Itoiuided bosses of j,'iiei.ss also riso in the
lieiids of tlutsoiitli l)iini\, and wooded islands and ja^'^ed granite loeks
constantly inipedi; and iireak up (im foandni; torrent. 'Die total (hup
here is /d)out ei:;lity feet.
A >inall island lies out in tlu' rixer at the head of the rapids, and
opposite it is a little elilt'of^'rc 'nisji line ^'rained yni'is-*, the biotite
bein;; niiiih altered to ehloiite. 1 1, strik'-s S, .'tit \\'., and dips
N. (iO \V. at an ati'de of
A htindre<l yards further down, tl
bank eonsists of masses of coarse ainphiliolite, for two-thirds of a nnle.
Heyoiid this the roek eon-'istsof vertical red ;,'n(iiss, striking S. ;it) W ,,
interlaininated with leiitieidar i)ands of ^'reen ainphibolite. I'lli/.abeth
I'ortji
ds
the \>iu\k of the river close to lilack I-ak
nMmcIi lia
ditady been described on pp. "lO-.M. W'e may therefore? |i»ss on ti
that part of .'^l one iiivei' abo\ e t h
W
re .Stone l!i\er Hows into the southeast
is about .'{()l) feel wide, .uid on each side
lire
.ide of j'.l.ick Lai
liiil
e It
e rouiicleil
sand and liniilders woodi
(I wi^.h spr
pine and liiicli
.After ascenilin^ the river for three-ipiarters of a mile, the foot of
lieavv
fall
•bed,
d tl
u' canoes Were
ded
I lie boitom of an adjcpininit l)ay on the north side, frum uhich
]]oint e\ eiyt hinj,' was cariied o\fr a poi t.'c^e
loi;
in length, to the
III the dist.uice anil risiriii
bank of the river aboxc, p.issinj,' three f.dls
forty seven feel. Tin' trai k ascends a sleep slope from Ihiilv to forty
feet liijih at each end, and in the middle rises to a heii,dii of TJO feet
above lilack Lake. ft ]iasses for the most ])art over sanily or slightl\-
clayey land, wooded with I'lanksian pine. Its west end is on low
land
id wooded wit li spiiK
and birch, while its east end is in a 'Move of
willows. Opposite the head of the poriaf,'e the ii\(>i' is about I oO
ards w ide. « itn low '
th
^y
iiaiiks Clin
lly
oded with 1)
sprue
•lust to the west of this willowy
it the banks
are conijiosed entin
of red and uray biotitegneiss, slopinj,' to tl
le w;ile
III
th
e iiortii sidt
d
iidken aiK
1 er
^my
lift
ween two iiicky points, the watcM
in tlie
ith
lirsl rushes in a sinootli slieet
over a leil;.;e of reddish j;iay gneiss, and then in a foamiiij,' cataract
for .'iOU yards between iii^'h, bare walls forty feet apart, to a :mall
island where it divides .•ind the 1,'realer pai't of the water IIo\,s to the
rij;ht in a narrow slraij,'ht >,'orye with a drop of twenty-live feet Ueluw
TVRMLl.
this a;;aiii the ra
end of I he porla'j
siinimei, the falU
beheld.
\'\)t' four miles
liKht-Kray Kneiss,
ii're;;idar ineliisioi
smooth rounded p
;,'rass and willows
mo(leralely e\en
hi;,'li, whi'" to tin
ually reeedi a^ th
.\! a distance c
from ihu north b
water, .'iOO feet w
current of two j
Lake, from which
very i()u;;li I'ocky
many swift iinpas
Kiver offers an eii
used as a canoe-r<
\\ the iiioiith o
behind, and tiirni
parat ively level si
stone, similar to t
down Cree liiver,
birch.
Two miles alio
is an outcrop of
sandstone or fini
fairly distinct di)
bed either of Hat
.Miove this ra|
another heavy co
wher(! it flows i
wliitt' at the top,
on each side are
l)Ut some of fjne
from the edge of
Hi
MTONK HIVBU.
I I I)
thin ii^iiitj till- rii|)i<|H i'ikI ill 11 liivi'ly (lis iili'd t'.ill ii|i|iiisiri> i.ir lnwi r
I'liil lit" Ihc' |)iii'tiii<f. Seen nil II cli'ur liri>{lit duy tiiwiinis t lit' I'lnl nt
•-uiiiiiii'i, till- fulls were iH'iliii|is tlif iiicot liciuilit'ul llml I liiul cvit
Ix'lirlil.
I'\)l' four miles iilioM' this rajiiil llic l)JiiiUs aif low iiiiil c()iii|Hi.sfil ol' l.iu'ht wray
IlKlit-Ki'tiy untiisH, often irre.iiuliirlv foliiited luid tdiitiiiiiiiij,' iniiny diirkei' *•''"''""•
iiie;,'ulur inclusion-. On Ixitli sides of tlio Htrpivin the roek juts out (is
smooth rounded points, lonnected with low sandy rid;,'es eovered liy
^{I'liss and willows, liehind whieli are small lakes. To the south is a
niodi^rately e\eii iid;,'e, pi'obuhly of sandstone, alioul a hundnd ft^et
hi;,'h, whi'" to the north are hills of t,'iiei.ss \'>0 feet hii;li, whii'h ^rad.
ually ri'ceili a* the river i-; aseended.
At a distaiiee of ei^lit miles above the rapiil. Stone |{i\er is joined r<itrii|>iiii'
from the north hy l'ori'U|iint) Uivor, a lar;,'e stfeam of dark lirown '''^''''
wiitor, .'100 feet wide at its mouth, iippaiontly deej), and llnwini; with a
current of two miles an hour. It is said to take its rise in Selwyii
Lake, from which ('hi|iiiian l!i\er also flows, and Ik jiass tiirou;,'Ii a
very rouLfli rocky country in deep ;,'or;,'es, in the liottom of which are
many swift impassalile rapids. On this accoiir , and liecaiise ('lii)iman
Hiver oilers an easier I'oad to the sami! place, L..e river is rar(!ly, if e\er,
used as a canoe-routo by the Indians.
At the mouth of the I'lircnpine |{i\erthe .Vrchieaii j;iieisses were left 1,,..,^,. i|i,
behind, and turnini,' sharply toward the south west we entered a com Aoliicaii.
paralively level sandy country underlain by the red Athaliasca sand-
stone, similar to the country through which we travelled on our way
down Oreo Uiver, and like it wooded with Itanksian jiine and small
birch.
'i'wo miles abo\e i'orciipine {{ivcr is a rapid, at the foot of which
is an outcrop of three feet of heavily and liorizon'ally bedded red
sandstone or line conirloinerate. The rapid consists in all of four
fairly distinct dips, between which is more or less swift wjitei', with a
bed either (if flat IviiiL' sandstone or small rounded boulders.
Above this rapid is u uile of fairly ([uiel water, beyond which is ,,
another hea\y continuous ipid, widi- and shallow near the bottom,
wheii- it flows over a bed of small boulders, and very swifl and
white at the top, where its bi .1 consists of larj^e boulilers. The llats
on each side are underlain by roended boukh'rs, chiefly of sandstone,
but soiiU! of fjiu'iss, fSic. A slopin<r gras.sy or stony beach extends
from the edge of the woods down to the water, on which the men
iivy r;i|iiM
rs 1)
atiiahasca i.ake and ciiuitniiLi, hivkh.
f'lii|i|M\\ yiiii
llllluills.
Whir
('lilts.,t
walkt'd MS tlicy Irackcil tlio ciiiiccs witli a lino agiiinst the heavy
curreiil.
Alxmt two miles ahove Pcm'cIi iiivi-r, a small triliutary from the east,
we iiuU. s(!veral eaiioes full of ('liip|) 'wyaii Indians descending the
river, liavini; come down from WoUaston I.ake in liirce days. Thev
were on their way from I'eindeer ljd<e to I'llack Lakts whei't^ they in-
tended (() join ollief Indians and ti'aNcl noithward to n.eet, the deci'
near tin; southern edi;e of tin; IJarren Lands. .\s hut one of our
Indians had e\er lieen on tiiisrivei- hefore, and that was s) lonj,' ago
tiiat lie h.i i now almost entir<'ly for,i;otf(>n it, we eamix'd heside our
new friends from Reindeer Lake, to learn the |)resent eoiidition of the
stream, the eharaeter oft he |iortaj,'es, \-c. They also toiil us -omethint;
of a eanoe loute northward from iieindeer Lake to Kasha or ^^llite
Partridge Lake, and tiieiice northward down the Kazan l{iver.
The follovviiiii morninj,', Allj,'iist IHh, vv(> continued the ascent of the
river. Imii' eleven miles it is wide and lake-like, with a ]ierce|il ilile
current only at the narrowest ])arts. The haidis are e\'erywhcre low
and sandy, with a very fe.v boulders here and there. In the jirotected
hays willows ai'o growing to the water's edge. Hack from the river a
few lenticular hills, or ispatinows, from lot) to 200 feet high, follow
the general direction of its haid<s. hi the upper ]iart of the distance
these ispatinows clos(> in on the river, and their liurnt sides were seen
to he thickly strewn wiili moderately well rounded houldeis, cliiiilly of
sandstone, but also ol' gray gneiss, dark and light green trap, green
chloritic schist, \c.
Thirteen miles above Percli liiver is a lapid a mile in length, with
!i total tall of about fifteen feet. liike tlie others it is fairly deej) at
the to|i, but wid.'atid shallow at the bottom. The lied of the rapid is
tilled with liouldeiN. The ;'ats above the rapid aicMomposed of broken
fragments of sandstone, mi.xeil with roundeil lioulder^ of gneiss. The
ijanks by the lower part of the rapid are verticil or oxerhaiiging
clitl's from ten to tifleen fi'ct high, of light red coarse sandstone or
line conglomerate, wil'i well I'ounded pebliles. It shows strong llow-
bedding, but the general stratilicat ion is horizontal. Here, as else
where, fossils vvi'i-e cjirefidly searclieil for, but nom-cou'd hi- found. The
surface is for t he most part rough, but in (tiw, place strong glacial grooves
were found running S. '^tl W. ,\bove this rapid the rivei' comes from
the south for a mile, when it turns sharply and ll<iws from the cast
between two high stt^ep ridges, the more northern one having its side
thickly strewn wit h boulders,and both being ajiparcntly long ispatinow.s.
|jrK)king eastward tlii^ con(>-shaped ends of other ispatinows were seen
in the <listance.
h'ive miles above t
llfty feet wide and t\
side of Stone J{ivor, i
ing from a .small lakc^
of which it falls in
about S. 10 W. ithin
i).iidvs of sandstone, at
across into tlu! east br
Uiver to the Churcl
lieach at iis mouth, n
llawk-rock Uapiil,
fall of from eight to
posed of ten feet of
Its surfac(' is wc^ll niai
i'^rom the head of
of ipiiet \vat(M', with 1);
height. The next rap
tracked u]> the lower,
side a narrow ridge of
parallel to the bank,
boulders are lather sin
very scanty matri.\ of
.Moose [^ake, is a qii
with a length of si.\ mi
a third of a mile, h;
inmiediate i)anks art!
stec'p wooded side of tl
f(UMning a, regular e\(
.'.cattered with roMndc(
The •i\(>r flows into
nearly a mile in leng
island. It; is called
foot is a wide bottoii
reddish-gray gneiss, th
Huronian rock, jirobal
in tll(^ viciiMty of Kasl
boulders consist largeh
.\ j)oint on the batd
.seen above lilack Lake,
l)eing the northern hu
STONK lUVKll.
711 I)
li'ivo miles iibovo the l)i'H(l, Hawlc-ro'jk Iviver, a swift cleiir stream Jl.iwl; mil;
tit'ty feet wide and two fc(!t deep at its moutli, llows into tlie soutli
side of Stone Kiver, down a rajiid willi a descent of two fe(>t, discliat'g-
iiig from a small lake a (|iiartei of a mile aeioss, into the opposite side
of wliieli it falls in a wid'' shallo'v i'ai)id. It secmecl to lome from
about S. 10 W. Ithingo, tine of our ("hippewyans, said that it has jiigh
banks of sandstone, and that lli("re is a [ira 'ticalile eanoei'o ito up it.
across into the east braiu'h of Mudjatick UiNcr, and down .Mudjatiek
Kiver to the Chui'chill. Many round(Ml boiddefs are lyinj,' on the
lieach at iis mouth, most of which ai'e of gray gneiss.
Hawk-rock Uapid, just ai)ove the moutii of Hawk rock I!i\cr, has a )|ilu1<-im(I;
fall of fr'im eight to ten feet. I n its upper part tlnMianks ai-e <'om- ''"
posed of ten feet of reddish sandstone similar to that ah'cady seen.
Its surface is W(^ll marked by glacial gi'ooM's, tr(Miding S. lio \V.
I'^rom the head of this rapid, for a mile and a (piarter, is a sti'etch
oi (piiet water, with banks of sandstone up to thirty f(!et or more in
height. The next rapid is in two cln'ites, both short. The canoes wei'e
tracked up the lower, and |io]ed up the upper chute. On its south
side a narrow ridge of boulders from iiflcen to twenty feet iiigh runs
parallel to the bank, and is soarjicd byth(> swift current. All the
l)oulders are rather suiall and well rouniled, and they are iiedded in a
very .scanty uiatri.x of sand. l*robal)ly tiie ridge is a small csker.
.Moose Lake, is a cpiiet e.xpansion of the river ju.it above this ra])id. Mip.»i ],■.[],,■.
witii a length of si.x uiil(!s and a-half, and a width of from a ipiarter to
a-thii'd of <'i mile, having the appearance of a large river. 'J'lu'
in-.mediate lianks are generally low and sandy, but above them the
steep wooded side of the isjiatinc m.s rise to heiglits of 100 to '200 feet,
forming a, regular ev(>n valley. 'i'hese hillsides are usually sandy,
i.cattered with rounded boulders of gneiss and sandstone.
The iver tlows into the east end <f Moosi' Lake in i<. hea\y ra|iid, I'.i.i". \ l..il<i'.
nearly a mile in length, and di\i;ied into two channels by a large
island. It is called by I >a\ id 'I'hompson "iJrassey Falls." At its
foot is a wide bottomland composed entirely of boulders, chicilly of
reddish-gray gneiss, though some are of san<lstone, aiul a few are of
Hui'onian i-ock, probably transported from the ai'ca of lluronian rock-
in the vicinity of Kasba L.ike, discovered in IS',)|. These lluronian
boidders consist lar'gely of coar'se conglomer/ile, and white (|uart/ite.
.\ jwirit on the bank is covered witir small balsam poplars, the Ih'si i.,. ....;,„
se(Mi ai)()\e lUack Lake. I'x'i r'ies were ver'V plentiful, the most aburulant
being the northern huckleberry [Varcliiiiim nlif/iiiiisuin) and tin; cran-
80 D
ATlIAHAhCA LAKK AND CIIUHrilllJ, KIVKH.
Hill .
Ann
fniiii
Hi.-
(jiiiti
beri'j' {Vncrlninin V'tix-Lhia), wliile tlie coinaiou liurklcborry ( Far
riniinn Cftnadensix), red and black cuiTiiiits (Nlbrn rnhrinn and li.
liu'/saiiianiini), goosebeiTics (Ri/n'.i ii.iyr.anf/ioidi'K), erosvborries (Eiii-
pefrnm nigrum), Pembina hQvv'wA {Vilnirntiin jiaKcij!(,r>nn), etc., arc
also found.
,f siuid- To the SDUtli of lirassey Falls is a bill fifty feet bi^'li, fonsistini; of
wliite Athabasca sandstone, dij)ping N. 20 W. at an an^le of 10 .
Its summit is well smoothed and grooved, the grooves running S, <S0
AV. This ridge of sandstone strikes the river at the hea-d of the rajiid.
and the banks and the betl of the stream below are composed of lai'^'r
I'ounded boukUirs, over which the men struggled with great difticulty,
as they walked i)esid(^ the canoes and hauled them up the current.
A mile above Brassey Falls, a cliff of .sandstone fifteen feet high rise;;
on the north bank to the edge of a w'uh' sandy plain. Opposit,. to it,
on the south sitle of tlie river, is a very stee[) h:u\k 100 feet I'lgh of sand
and boulders. On ascending this bank it is found to l,- tlu^ side of a
knifc-c(lL,'ed ispatinow about a mile long, comj)osed <'l'sand and lai'gc and
small boulders, chietly of gneiss. The summii is very narrow, and thi'
sides a!i, as steep as the material wll! stand.
; Ku'inl. A short distance farther up the stream we asceiuled iirink
llaj)ids, a mile long, with a total descent of about twenty five feel,
tracking and poling up the lowei' part, and making a portage on the
north side past the upper part, where the water rushes over several
ledges of sandstone, 'i'lie banks are low dill's of sandstone, and a
ridge of saiulstone stretches along the north side of the river.
On the evening (.f August KHh, camp was piti'hed near the east end
of the portage. The black llie.s, which breed in tlu^ clear running
water, had for some time past been swarming around us in countless
numbers, and had turned every mouuMit of warm sunshim- into a
moment of agony. At night, rolled in our blaidctits, under a tent
of cheesecloth to keep oil' the mos(|uitoes, we s(\cured a few hours' rest.
Most of the rapids had been ascended by walking in the watiir and
hauling the canoes, and in order to gel a foothold on tin* smooth
stones and to stem the swift current, thi^ men were oftc^n naked up
to tliei: waists, and con.sequently suffered very severely from the black
flies.
Above this camp the north bank of the river is formed by a higli
ispatinow, and other's rise at a short distance^ back on the .south,
side. The immediate banks are composed of Hat-lying .sandstone. At
a distance of a milt? and a-half up the river, on the south bank, is a
vaiu
iliac!
II'
liill of similar sands
X. r)0 W. at angle.'
strea,n the sandstoi
^Iri.ight cour'se fron
ci.rrent, between .sa
'outh, .around a .san(
cliff .seventy feet hi
fos) have had a nest
The river (lows fr,
stone fr'orn ten to i
tVoiii t||(! e.'ist for' hv
between long lentic
shows (III its iijuiks.
water, the ri\er agaii
swift ra|jid with a fa.
"11 the north side.
boulders, which arc
south side is ;i dif}' .s]
on the nor'th side is a
swift wa'er or rapids
I'alLs, high scarped b
and ther'e.
•Manitou I'alls was
one of its channels d
'J'he \v:iU'v tumbles ovt
sticains. into a narrr
which, part of il„. watt
part runs for' about t w
into ,1 wide, slmllow,
lieiglit, and past it is
Here our I'anif) ujis pit
'lie iii.rth east an elonj.
.sandst<in," to a height o
fall in the ri\(M' showeo
feet aboM- \',\nvk l.ake.
l''roin the head of tl
ag.iirist a ver'y swift ci
lif'b'en to thirty feet in
yai'ds long.
Tiie portage lirsta.sceii
and then passes thi'ough
S1'0\K HIVlvK.
81 I)
,
Saililstnllc
IlilllUs.
hill lit' siniiliir simdstone forty feet liigh, strikipf^ N. 'W E. and (liiipiinf
X. no W. at iinglos from 20 to -10 . Two liuiidrod yards fartli(>r uj)
stifriiii the sandstone is aj;ain horizontal. The river continues in a
slii.ij;ht eoui'se from east-southeast for thre(! niiU.'s, with a nioderato
CI. rrent, liet ween sandstone hanks, and then turns sharply from the
iouth, around a sandstone hill, on the east side of whieh is a beautiful
elilf seventy feet hii^li, where a pair of jiolden eagles (.!(//'//« cA/'y.svf;-
/()") have had a nest for a nuiiiher of years.
Till- liver (lows from the south for a mile, iictween hanks of sand-
stiiiK' from ten to twenty feet iiigh, when it again turn.s and comes
from the east for ti\e miles, in the hottoin of a wide swampy valley
hetwei'ii loiii; Icntiiular hills of lioulders '"*'• feet high. \o rock
shows on its hanks. At the end of the live-mile stretch of (piiet
water, the ri\er again turns sharply and flows from the south down a
■-wifl ra|iid with a fall of (ifteen feet, up which we trackeil th(> canoes
on the north side. The hcd of the rapid is coinpnscd entirely if
hoiildi'is, which are prolialily resting on a lieil of sandstone. ( )n |ie
south side is a clilV showing forty feet of horizontal saiKKtone wlnle
on the north side is a widi^ llat of large rounded boulders. From here,
swift wa'er or rapids extend for three miles up to I h(> foot of Manilou
I'^alls, high scarped hanks of santtstouo overlooking the stream here
and there.
Manitou I'^alls was so called hy the Indians because the wat<';- in
one >\\' its channels disap|iears under the rock for a short distance.
The water tiimliles over the face of a rocky sandstone ledge in two
streams, into a narrow ilianncl aliout twenty tivc feet wide, from
which part of the water rushes to the left in an ojien ch.miuil, while a
part runs for about twenty yards inider the lock, iioth stri ams fallini'
into a wide, shallow, rocky ba--iii below. The fall is lificen feet in
height, and past it is a portage 1 L'O yards l..iig on the south side.
Here our camp was pitched, on the evening of .\ugu^t 11th. Towards
the iKirth-east an elongated (i\al hill of glaci:t,l dt'bris rises aboxe the
sandstone to a height of lot) feet, wooded to the top. '| h, estimated
fall in the ri\er showed the foot of Manitou I'alls to be idioui l.")0
feet at)o\e I'lack Lake.
l''rom the he;id of the falls we ascended the ri\-er with paddles,
ag.iinst a scry swift current between pei'iiendiciilar sandstmie u 'ills
lifteeii to thirty feel in height, to a portage on the south side ~;iO
yards long.
The portage lirst asceiuls a loitgh saiulstone hill thirty-live feet high, I'mtap'.
and then passes through pine woods over fairly level country. North
i;
.Manitou
K:ill~.
if
Sl> I)
ATIIAIIAHCA LAKK AND CIIUUCIIILI, UI\ Kli.
'l'llcHU|i-"ll
l^lpill.
CluiMHi' III
of rivii'.
Siiuill Ilk.
i)t' it tlie rivor has a fall of about fifteen feet in a heavy rapid between
sandstoni' banks.
Iininecliately above the portage the channel is very (-rooked, ami
there is a stitf rapid with a fall of about twelvt! feet, wiiioii we ascended
with a line, aliovc which is a stretcli of moderately easy water, up
whicJi we paddled, with tiie assistance of a stiff breeze, to the foot of
Thompson Rapid, one of the heaviest rapids on tiie river. Tiie lower
part, in >vhich the banks arc low, was i-eadiiy ascended with a line to
a short portage, thirty-live yards long, across a point on the noitii side,
where wc camped on the night of .Vugust 1 Jth. .Vbov(^ tliis short
portage, ahiiost to the loj) of tlu; rapid, tin? l)aid<s are from ten to
lifti^en feet higli, and consist of llat-lying sandstoni', generally under-
cut by the water. Past part of this cascade we portaged all oui' slull'
for ."iOO yards on the north bank, merely tracking up our empty canoes.
The total fall in the rapids is about thirty teet.
it was here, on the "Jth of July, IT'.K), that David Thompson, the
famous geograpliei' ami explorer of north-western America, and after-
wards the British astronomer on the International r>iiundary Sur\ *v,
was u]i-iet from his canoe, and lost all his guns, ammunition, food,
clothing, and the records of his ^ • and on th<' sandy beach in tiie
little bay at the foot of the rapid lie doubtless hauled out his broken
janoe.
< In the north ■ ' le of the rapid is a tliickly wooded high hill. ]irob,rl)ly
an ispatinow.
Thompson IJapii is sixty miles aho.e 'Hin< Lake, or almost midway
on Stune Ki\ I'r bet\^ ecu i i.it lake and its ,urce in Wollaston l.akt'.
'I'o here tiie river has flowed with an almost i;onstiint current, in a well
defined channel. From this ]ii)iiit upwards tlieii" is less detrital
niat(Mial o\erIying the rock, tlie river widen;; out in jilaces into small
lakes, between which are sliortcr or longer stnrtches of narrow
stream.
Alio\(' 'I liompsiin Rapid, tin- river ojiens into a small lake two miles
long, with high hills to the north, wooded down to the waters edgi',
while pleas.mt sandy beaches extend along the soutli side, with hillsnf
bouldei s from fifty to seventy feet liigii in I lie background. The only
rock seen was in two little eliU's of sandstone near wlitu'e the river Hows
from tlie lake.
r.oni this lake we ascended the stream, at tlie mouth of wliicli is a
stiff rapid with a fall of six feet. We tracked up this rapid, and
At Perpendicul
•1
STONE lUVEH.
83 D
piuldled up another light rapid with a drop of two feet, to tlie western
arm of Otter Liilce, and then for three miles and a half throutjh this Ottn Lake.
beautiful little lake, whose shores are low points or wooded hills, to the
mouth of the river, where it Hows into the south end of the lake over
a bed of small boulders in a wide shallow stream. The boulders an;
almost all yray <;neiss. Just within the nioutli of the I'iver. in a
deep bay, empties a small stream eijj;lit feet wide, fallin<^ fi>ur feet in
a little stony rapid. It llows from a lake half a mile loni^ running,' N.
70 K.
Vuv n mile and three-quarters up the rivi^-, to JV-rjienilicular llodk.,
the current is swift all th(i way, and most of th(! distance was ascended
with the line. The banks are for the most part low, and composed ol'
bouldei's, though at two ])Iaces sandstone was .seen.
.Vt I'lTperidieular Uock, tlu' stream is nuKJerately narrow and swift, l',in>»niilim«i»'
witli overhanging cliffs of sandstone tifteen feet high on each side. "^
The cliff' on tlu^ north sid(>, is the face of a small isolated hill of sandst<ine,
an old channel of the river v'*xtending behind it. 'I'lie cliff' on the south
side is iiiucli longer, and back from its summit were found some
smooth \^ ell glaciateil surfaces, the glacial gr<iu\c>< on wliirli run ' "'5 W.
i'^roiii Perpendicular Koi'k the ra])id stream « - .isccndcd for thi'i'e-
ipiai'ters of a mile to a jioint when! i* brciks into s. \eral chivuiicl'; I ti the
channel followed, art; two rapids with drops of ten and fi\.- feci respec-
tively. At. the first are ov<!rhanudng l>»nks of .and^'one tift«M'n feet
liigli, while at the .second the banks are low. Ab(»velli' ' Merisafiiw
stretcii of good water for three miles and adialf, witi ittle rapid
about the middle, to tlm i'llbow. Here the main cliannei onlinucs
eastward into a deep liay. liiit. the fixer falls dircctlv inlu the south
side of this clianiiel in a heavy, though no'., very long ia|iicl called Kecj |;,,,| Hi,,ik
l$ank {''alls. < »n tlu^ east side of this is a low scatjied batdi, slmwing I'.ill-.
six feci of more or less ihin-hcddcd rcil .>,iti(lsloiie iiiid congloincr.itc
with white tpiart/ite p('lil)les. .\l)ove this lieavy ra])id are iwo short
still' rapids, at narrows in the stream, before Kosdaw Lake (so named
after one of l)a\id Thompson's Indiiins) wa^ rearliiMl, on the west
shore of which wc camped amiwm pines dii .i litt Ic Unoll uf sand .iiid
lioiildcr-;, (in t lu> evening cif Saturday, .\iigust Lith.
Kosdaw Lake is about live miles long, and a mile and a half wide, |<,.,.|;iu l.aUi
broken by several large islands, and with the river flowing into its
south eastern and out of its ninth vvcstcrn side. It is suiioiiiuled by
low wooded hills, the woo Is aliimst (everywhere descending to the edge
of the wa'er. A few sand-heaches lun along the shore near the mouth
•of the rivi'r, but none of the underlying rock is to be .seen.
6*
!
84 ij
ATIIAI1.\S( A LAKi; \M> (1111(01111,1. IIIVKK.
Sioiic liiver fulls into tlio lake in ii r.ipid a
Icni'tli, witli
total (i{!Si('i>t of twenty feet. It.s
]iarl is ivitlicr .shallow, and was
ascended with poles ; th(! up|ior pait is (hu-per, and was tfacked on
the northeast side. The banks are for tlie most, part low and eon'-
poseil of Koulders, but iicai' tlic top the left, baidc shows thiiilc-bedded
sandstone, witii .i very iniieh broken siuf:iu(!. .lint below this outcrop
of sandstone a brook tt.'n feet wide llows in fi'oni the oast, over a bed of
.Swift ."triiii
For the ne.\t 1 1
d tl
liies and a-half, to a lake, the current is ver
swift, and the stream was ascended l>y tr.'ickin;; or polui
Tl
le oanks
are i;eneialiv low. with willows to the edi'i; of the waiei, and no I'ock
wa.s seen, tliou'd
bi'oki
11 sandstone is coiimieii ncfM- the l.aiik.
The lak(^ is narrow and three miles and a-half li
hi' most
of the shores are low, with very low hills in the l)ackjj;r()ui.d, l)ut at
the south end is a hi^'h well-rounded eloin,o'ited o\al hill.
I'or ;v mile above the lake, to a ])ortaj;e, the river is i'aj)id, and we
ascended it with poles. At the portaj,'o the curr(?nt in very Hwift, with
heavy wa/es, and tile Indians usually carry their canoes on tlu! south
le for ISO yar(]s. II
tlr
owe ver, w(> wa
Iked, in the water, and hauled our
canoes u;) aloni; tlie sou
ith b;
the h
»vy waves.
At the foot
of ih
)f w
ipid,
hiti
the north side, is a litlh
dst(
one, uliilc on the .south side is a
rouiK
led
I'DI'/ICK null
itllll
ine-i
hill t
.venty feet
hitjh, composed cliielly oi boulders of red and uiay i,'i
Tl
ad-
]oinin<.; coun
try i.'onsist.s of
ded
nils thicKlv wo(ii|e(
1 with spruce
Mni.iiiiii liill>. .lust above the rapid the ti'a\cller a.^cenlin,^ the river enters a descdate
country, of low, a'mo.st bare hills from lifty to .seventy teet hiK'i, cotn-
I"
d of b
dors imbedded in a mati-ix of barren reil sand, fjow hills
of sand aie .ilso seal tvred aiiKiiiL' thos<; of bouldei
de th
ar(^ saiulv
the banks of the river
.ainic area in wh"' h are sc.altenMl saiK
T
ly 1<^
lese stony lulls indicati' a mor-
morauue ar>
)r einht miles, sj
in^ out III the iiiid(
Tl
th
le river tr/iverses this
of the dis-
tance int'> a Ion- narrow laki', on tlie banks of which .'ire some hori
zont',1 outcrotis
oarse white sandstrau
()U\ ~Im>o
line-.
.\ iiill Mil the s.cuhwest shore, which was more particularly (!.\-
amined, i,-; seveiitv fee; hif^h, wit li a siiinmit, of barren sand scattered
witli boulders. ' (n if i side, twelve feet above tlu; lake, is a terrace of
boulders, and liftceu feet higher is a st<.e|i bank of bouldi^rs, both
denoliiii,' old hoie-hiies. i'"rom this hill a dec'p bay extends in u.
south nesterly direction towai.ls the mouth of Waterfoun.l River. At
the bottom of ;!i(' liay are several well rounded, lif;litly wooded,
(li uiiilin-like hills.
Two miles abov
rapid, we camjied
stone, which extei
or old rivcr-clijunit
and tji'ooved by fxl
.sides of the rock
.about a mile loni,',
north-west side of
high, and between
ers are chieliy of i
LClc'inerate, white ;
of this boulder rid.
found l!i\cr llows
eiirhteeii inches dei
'here is said to b
heiiiht of land, and
abo\-e the mouth oi
from the north, fori
rapid over a ln.d ,,);
'J'lie next r.ipid
it the canoes were t
in si/e, beiiii; ()iil\- 1
Tliree-(iuartcis of
ra|iid, iij) which th
Indi.iiis coiniiionlv
yard.s. The bed of I
stone has formed tin
of Waterfoiiiid IJiv
basca sandstone sc(
lilack Lake ;dl the (i
ei'al'y horizont.d and
ness. r.eyond Cvint
,i,'r,inites and ■,'neisset
narrow, windin;; bod
miles. The water is
The shores of the |;
thick ijrowih of wil
wooded hills about si
Stone Kiver emptii
with a fall of about t
red biotite-^'ranite, Ik
■]
sroN'K nivKii.
85 n
Two miles abovo tliis liill, and a iiiilo aii'l a cuiartcr below tlie next
I'apid, we caiiijicd on the soulli l)ank, on a low boss of tlatlyinj; sand-
stone, wliicli extends from the bend in tiie river back to a narrow lake
or old river-channel. Its surface, thougli <,'enerally rou;;li, is scratched
and <j;rooved by fflacial inarkinuts runninif S. b") W., the stoss and lee
sides of the rock being clearly shown. The lake, back of camp, is
about a mile long, aid lies in a nairow valley running S 45' W., the
north-west side of which is composed of a lidge of boulders thirty feet Kiilj,',Mif
higli, and iK'tween L'OO and 300 yards wide. On ibis lidge (he boulfl- '"'"''''"<•
ers ar'e cliielly of red and ui'ay gneiss, but some ari' of lluronian con-
glomerate, white and giay ([uart/.itc, crystallini' dolomite, etc. West Watiiinmid
of this boulder ridge, ai'c two other small lakes through which AN'ater- •'■''■'''■
found Hi\('r Mows. I'.ctwecn th(! lakes it is tlfty feet wide and
eighteen inches deep, llowitig swiftly o\ er a giavcl bed. {']> this rivei'
t.hei'c is said to be a canoe route to Churchill l{i\i'i', crossing the
li(>ight of land, and ))as-;ing down llaultain Uiver. A short distance
abo\'e (he mouth of Wadrfound Uiver, a sti'eam joins the Stoni; Hivei'
froni (lie noi'tli, forty feet wide at its niuutli, where it tlous inashidlipw
rapid over a lied of boulders.
The next rapid is very swift, with a drop of about ten feet, and up
it the canoes were taken by hand. Stoe.e Uiver is now much reduced
in si/e, beini' onl\' between eiL;hlv and one hundred feet wide.
Three (luarters of a mile farther u]i the stream is nnnthi'r swift
rapid, U)i which the caiio(>s were alsn taken by hand, althouuh the
Indian-; conuiionlv carrv (lieir canoes on (lie smi
(h bank for 1000
The b
if (1
le stream is of boulde
M's, but tli(? hoii/on(al and- i.a^t
rntcl'ci|i
stone has formed the banks mon
of W'aterfound Hiver to here.
ss eoni iiuiou-ilv trc'in the nwaitli
lis was the
last
isca sandstone seen in
th
aseen
I of (1
IIS
river.
if .\tli;i
Since lea\in
if .\tli:ili:is(M
-:mils (jiie.
iiUlenip
15hi
ack hake all (lie oulc'ops have lieen \ery similar in cliarac(er, gen-
erally horizontal and uiulis(url)ed, and none showing any great tliicl:
lu'ss. r.eyond Crooked Lake, which lies just abo\t', the Aicl-Mean
"raniles and I'neisses attain come (o (he surface,
Crooked Lake i
s a
narrow, windiiis,' liodv of wa(er, throiiL'h which we tra\
.1 f
or seven
l.aki
iked
Tl
le wa(er is I'lear but dar
and seems to be rather s
halh
The si
tl
Hires
ot (I
lak
are
ow aiK
1 St
onv,
UKl are covered wit
iicl.
/rowtli of willows that overhaiii' the water.
A f
ew siiais(
ly
(led hills about sixty fee( hi'di rise in the
iiael
tStone Uiver empties into theeasteiul of the lake in a heavy cascade,
with a fall of about twelve feet, over a rounded ridge of rather coai'se,
red biotite-granite, heavily jointed and massise, except for an occasional
80 I)
ATIIAHASCA LAKK AND ClIUUCniLL HlVEIl.
Lniirf'iitiiiii
Kl'llllitr,
Ki'il (.'III i>
Hat
chit
•Siiutli sliiiiv.
Niirtli Miiii
(M>t >lin|i--.
slii;lit li(iriy,fiiital foliation. Crooked Lake, tliereforc, li(>s alonj; the
line of junction of :)ie Arclia'an {^laiiites 'ind ynoisses and thy oscrlyinj;
Athabasca sandstone. A poitaj^e ;iOO y irds long leads past this fall
acro.s.s a bend on toe nouth side, at nrst through swanij), then over
bouMers, and linally over a granite knoll wooded with sniall spruce.
la the next mile are two rapids wiili dio|)sof six ami eight tV'.'t respec-
tively, over large boulders. At the upper one the banku are composed
of red granite siniii.M' to the last, but finer grained ami generally
f(>liate(l. The camies were cirried jiast it on a rough portage .'!70 yarils
long on the south side ovei' a rounded I'll! of gneiss, the surface of
which is broken and irregular. Above the portagt^ is a small lake
with high bi)ld shores of red gneiss. On the evening of Itith August,
camp was pitched in a little sandy l)iiy on the south side of this lake,
at the foot of .some rounded hills of boehU'rs. The latitude as deter-
mined was .')S 40' 47'
From this lake we ascen<led a heavy rapid over boulders to Hatchet
Lake, The rapid has a total fall of about eighteen fe(!t. At its foot
the descent is very steep : near its head it is divided into two cliannels
bv an island, and the nien hauled tl
le canot:
s by hand up the n(-i'th
channel. .\t, the head of the rapid the south bank is formed of red
granite, while the north bank consists of boulders on the edge of a
vei'v wet spi'uce swamp.
lb
let Lake is a small rectangular body of clear water, with
'th oi twehe ni
a ijreatest widtii ut se\t'ii
milt
and a siior(> line of thirtv-ni
ne miles.
.Mr. l)nwiing sui-veyed tiie south .•-hore, and found it to be compo.sed
ciiielly of boulders, with occasioiuil outcrops of reddish gneiss at the
points.
Tiie writer surveyed the north and east sliores, which were fou. d tc
)( u'eiK ra
Iv 1.
itl
ow, witll lietlclie:
co\ered with boulders, alteinating \\ ith
oc<'asuinal stretches ot sand in the
ittoms of the bavf
iieli
nut the
beacii
IS a lew WoiHlt
•d cduiil I'V, with SOUK! I'ounded iiills in the distaii*
i)OIIUS o
n tl
le nor't li shore ai''
UIK
lerli
lin by \nassive red granite, or
reditisli-grav gneiss.
T
le oast, sliore is composei
(of
I massive meilium-
^rained wliite biotite-granite rich in plagiodase.
(iiacial sti
w(!re oiiservi
■d both on the east and
wes
t si
lores, in
both cases lunning .S. l'o W
The islands in the
lake are generally low and underlain by ivd
granite. I>ut near the imrth west angle sonu' stand out higher thai
the others. One of
found to bo an eskei
25 W, pat al lei to t
tirely of loose .sand,
small boulders, up ti
where it overlooks th
little valley, beyond
sand ridge. 0„ t,,j,
much as six feet in e
tliis country winch is
On our airival at
corner of the lake. :\l
to continue the asi^en
Lake.
Wooded lijll.s, [iiol,;
of the river.
A mile above its m
south, and winds fur I
rapid over boulders, w
out diflieulty. IVimi I
eighty feet, and Hows
throuiih a marsh or g
low wooded hill.s „f sa
about six feet, iind was
the ri\er gradually wii
hills of boulders back fi
rapid was found to eons
in .some places, and fa
seemed to be composed
l''oi four miles above
exposures, and the livei
swift current. At thv' i
high, stands out con.spic
thesti'eam. It consists
i. and with a dip varvi
IS heavily jointed appn
that its .south fac(! f()i'iii>
and a point on the sout
aio also coinpo.sed of sim:
steep cliir of sand and
8T0NK lUVKH.
87 I)
tho others. One of these was nioro piirticuliirly ('xiiinined, iiiul wii.s
found to he iiii eskor or "larrow lent uliir hill 70 feet hij,'h running' S. |,;^|;|.,.
25' \V. parallel to the glacial .striation. It is ccmiposed almost en-
tirely of loose sand, iniiifiled with a few wi'll-i'ounded |)fhl)les and
sMiall huulders, up to ten inches in diameter. Its west face i> scarped
where il overlooks the? lake. f'iUst of the main ridi^e of the esker is a
little- valley, l)eyond which, on the sann; isl;ind, is another' lower pai'.illel
sand ridtje. On to]) of the esker are somi^ lin(> tall white spruces, as
nuich as si.x feet in circumference, forniiiif; very conspicuous olijeets in
this country which is generally wooded witji sm.ill hlai/k spruce.
On oui' arrival at Stone Ki»"er, which empties into the southeast Sinn. Ui\ii-.
corner of the lake, Mr. |)owlini^ had not yet arrived, so we determined
to continue! the a.scent of the stream and wait for him at W'ollaston
Lake.
Wooded hil
if the river.
proliahK of lioulders, rise on each side; of the mouth
fl'Ct
A mile above its mouth the river turns shai'ply, comin<; from the
.south, and winds foi' thr(>e(piarters of a mile through a marsh, to a
rapid ovei' hoidders, with a fall of three feet, up which we poled with-
out difliculty. l''rom here therivei' has an even width of from sixty to Uiv.i
eighty feet, and (lows with a current of about two miles an hour ^Jj"'!!,^
through a marsh oi' grassy meadow. Hack from the river are some
low wooded hills of sand or boulder.'-. The next I'apid has a drop of
abiuitsix feel, and was ea-ily ascendt<d with poles. .\bo\-e this rapid
the I'iver gradually widens, ami the baidcs are mostly low, with low
hills of boulders back from the i'i\er. .\ small islanil a mile below the
rapid was found to consist of red biotite-granite, with a slight loliation
in sonu? jilaces, and farther north a hill .djout a hundi'cd feet high
seemed to be composed of white granite.
L'oi f(n>r miies above this islanil the country is low and without rock
e.vposures, and the liver is wide excej)! at one point, where thei'e is a
swift cui'rent. .Vt th.' end of this distances a rounded hill, sixty feet
high, stands out conspicuously from the north bank into the middle of
the stream. It consists of a reddish-gray biotite gneiss, foliated X. l)."i nm ,,| i,,|,,in,
i-'t. and with a dip varying from vertical to a high angle S. l'.") I'!. It
IS heavily jointed approximately at right ai\gles to the f illation, so
that its south face foi'ms .-i wvy pr<'cipitous dill'. Two small islands,
ami a [)oint on i\w south shore a mile and a ([uartt>r abo\e this ciirt',
arc also composetl of similar gneiss, while the north bank opposite is a
steep clitl' of sand and boulders. A short distance above the latter
I!
lip''
«S I)
ilpplills.
Art'n.
Diaiiicd li\
lliiw iiitr ill
,.|.|».Hlr
(lilictinll-.
( 'oi'liniiii-
liivti.
Xnl'tli-Wl
luy.
1"
It til
A'lllAltA.SCA I.AKl'; AM) (III IK 1111,1, IMVKII.
(lisa|i|i('itrs, iiiid t'luiii llicrc upwarils tii Wullasiun li
till! h.uiks iiri! liiioil with Ixuildcrs. At tlio point wlicrr tlic rjxci Mows
out ut' a hay at tiic indlli-wcst eoi'iicr of tlio lake, it is rati
iiT narrow.
and lias a iiiiKh^ratc' cuiicnt. Tlif lii'd of tlic stream could not bo
seen, Inn I Ik
l)aiii<
;<.s were eomi
luoscd (Mitirclv ot' sand and Imuldt
Wdl/nsfiiii /,ii/,i
W
(illaslon
Lake is a laiL,'"' liody nt" hfantit'uliy clear transpa rent watv'r
lyini; in a <;ciieral norlli-and-soutli direction, witli a i,'reatest leiijitli oi'
iiliout' (it'ty-tive miles, and an ajipruximate area nt' SOU sipiare miles
Tt
s contour is ixcccdinylv irret-'ular, its sliore-line beini; indented liv
ilerp liays, and its surface dotted witli iinnieKais rocky isliimU. Two
trilnitaries were d '^covered tlowinj,' from liir soutli-\Ncst into its west-
ern side, while it holds the unii|Me ])osition, for so l.irj,;e a lake, of
lieint; <lraiiicii liv two almost eijual streams wliirh llow in oppositi'
directions. • Stone itivctr, one of these, has just lircn dcscrilied from
where it Hows out of the north west aiiLjIe of tlie lake to its nioiilli in
Lake Alhali.isca, wlu'ic its waters join those of the .Mackcn/ie l!i\ei-
and arc carried northward to the Arctic Ocean. Cochrane, or Ice
liivcr. which was lirst ascendcil hy the late .Mr. A. S. t'ochraiK? in iSSli
flows from the nortli-oasterii aii^ile of tiie lake, and after a course of l'OI)
miles empties into iicindccr Like, from which the water llows liy
itcin<lecr ,ind ('hnrchill ri\-ers into lluiison l!ay. Thi! name ( 'ochrane
Itivcr is jiidposcd for this stream iuslcad of Ice Kiver, to a\did con
fusion with ley iii\cr, which llows into i> Jrc.it l'"isli l!i\ci-, and ;is a
(ittiiii; tiiiiute to the memory of my friend, .Mr. C ichrane, who wjis
the lirst white man to ascend and siiiNiy the stream, and to set at
rest the question whether Wollaslon Lake is drained liv two streams,
as marked mi |)avid Tliom|isoii s map, or Ky only one, as posilivelv
asserted liy Ahlii' I'etitot.
The hay of Wollaslon Lake, from which Stone l{i\er (lows, isainile
and a half loni; and three (piarters of ;i mile wide, and on the cast side
of it Wi' ]iitclied our camp on the cNcnin!,' <it the l^tli of .\u;,'ust, to
wait for Ml. i)owlin;,'. The latitude was <lelerinined as ."iS L'li' 41",
and the \ariation of the compass to he '27 east, '{"he slior(> is
generally lined with lioulders. hut there are a fi'W little stretches of
sand, at one of which we hauled up our canoes. iiehind caiiiji a low
v'ul'^Q coinjHised of sand and lioulders of i^ranite, well wooded will)
spruce and Lanksian jiine, runs soutliward to a low prominent point
that appeared to lie a favourite Indian <'ainpin^' ground.
TYRHr'l. 1
•Mr. l»owliiij;iurii
we started soutliwai
line of lioulders. In
small Mack spriici
an eskerdikc ridi^eut
lightly wooded with
its .south end, adei'i
of a terrai'e of loi
ancient lake shore
in
.\ mile sdiitheast
in the mouth of a n
like hills and ridges s
lietwceii which are
poiiils. The sides of
their liases are friiii;e
I'ollowing the shore
with was on a smal
chielly of iirlhoclasf. m,
mlain-. sonii^ iiiclusii
liiii, like most of the r
l''or ten miles souti
-•ecn ill place, hul tli
of which are of .\il
the heacli is a rather st
sandy plain wooded wi
west shore of I'lve Lai
angular, and their ;iresi
with the general sandy
elusive evidijiice of the
niediati' vicinity. The
lake, as well as all the (
lies along the line of eo
Collins ( 'reek is, at i
ruiiniii'4 "^er ,i l,c(l of 1.
and its 1 inks an? grov/i
hottoin of ;i hmg narrow
We followed the low
miles, to a point heliiid
foliated biotite-gneis^, si
angle of 50 . In son e j
•]
UiiM,A!STnN I.AKi;,
89 I)
Mr. howliiii' tirrivcd on tlic fiiUowini; iiioriiiiiL' iiiul sliciitlv iit'lcrwiirds W >
^ ' . V
wo stni'ttid sotitliwiud ili'wu ilir west side of tlio liikc, 'I'lic liciich is a j
.1 >liul-i' 1)1
\\nlla»tli|l
line ot' l)nuldi'is, hcliind wliicli ilic cimiiiI rv is low imd
dfd willi
siiia
II M;
ick siinirr.
Til
I'i'f unit's soil
ill ot' the liciid of Sinric itivcr, i.s
an cskci'-liUc ridijcot' siind iviid liinddns lii'tui'i-ii •_'0U iitid .'!()() tVct liii.'li, l'-l<'i-
lij,'litlv \vood('(l with jiaiiksiiiii pint'. itciiiiid a littlo sandy liay nrai'
its smitll end. a deep mossy lio;,' sticte'lics U|i a j{(Mltlc' slope to tlic cd;,'!'
of a tornice of roiiiidi-d yi'avt>l nixty tVot aljove tin- iaki', nlal■kin^' an
ancient lake slioic.
A mile sontli-east of tlii-i slopini; lioi; a loni; and n.urow island lies
in the mouth of a imniilini; liay. It is made up of \ei'y steep esker-
like hills and ri)l;,'es seventy feet hiiih.nf sand and well rounded lioulders.
hetween which ai'e dee|i kellle holes, occasionally containing small
ponds. 'I'lit! sides of the hills are lis steep as the sand will stand, .ind
their liases ,ire friuijed l)y rinys of liouldei's.
I'ollowinj; the shore on warils for foiii' mihis, the first rock in place met
with was on a small island of red ,t;raiute. The granite is composed Iti'l t-'nuiit
eh icily of orthoclaso and (piarlz. with a little plai,'iiK'lase and hiulite and
mtanis some inclusions of foliated gneiss. The surface is snioi-th,
tint, like most of the rock-sui'faces in this r(>Lfion, it is not striatetl:
l*'or ten miles southward, to the mouth of Collins Creek, no lock was
seen in plice, hut the sIkh'c is mostly strewn with houlders, many
of which are of Athaliasca sandstone and conulomeiate. ISehind
the heach is a rather steep slope, risini; fioni ten to twenty feet, to a
sandy plain wooded with IJanksian pine, similar to the plain on the
west shore of Cree Lake. .Many of the saiulstone masses aic (pute
ani^ular, and their preseni-e here, and notfarthei" north, taken toi^ether
with the jioneral sandy character of t he surroundini,' counti'y, is con
clusi\i> evid('iic(M)f the o'currence of .Atlialiasca s.indstone in the im
mediate vicinity. The occui'rence of the sandstone here shows that this
h.l,-,.
M.srilCl. of
■tlin-.
AlliiiliascM
SMlllUtiilll-.
as well as a
II th
tl
le other large lakes throuu'li which we hasc ]iasst'(
hich
lies aloui; (he line of uontactof the Archa'an and I'aheo/.oic
Colli
MIS ( reek IS, at Its mouth, a small stream tori\-li\c' teet w'lde, ( ',,111,,^ ( ■
iiinin'' over a lied of liuuldcrs. Its
and its 1 inks are ''i'(
hotl<
ith
own witli snrucc! and willows
Water is o
1
f a lii'ht-hrowii colour,
It 11
ows into the
of a long narrow hay with lieaches of sand and liouldi
\N"e f.
miles, til
d th
■ast shore of Collins liay outwards for six p,
int. I't
)int hehi'id whicl
1 IS a higli r
ounded hill of daik-grav well ^-''
foliated hiotite gneiss, striking N. 'JO Iv and di|>pingS. 70 E. at an
iingle of TiO . In .son is places it is very coar.se, and full uf biotite, aiul
^'iu
..*'. %
%s
V]
<P
'/#/
c>^
M
O
7
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)
1.0 fM IIIIIM
I.I
'^IIIIM 115
If i^ III
12.2
tuUi-
1.25
12.0
U ill 1.6
Photographic
Sciences
Corporation
i.
^
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A
y
^
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^
23 WBST MAIN STREET
WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580
(716)872-4503
. C)^
90 D
ATHABASCA LAKE AND CHURCHILL KIVER.
Wl.it.'
gianiti'.
Hdriihli'iiil
lii(ititi'-t;nri
l)(l)t!i i)f
wiiti'r.
is much broken by irregular veins of coarse red pegmatite. Its surface
is smooth, and shows strong glacial grooves, trending >S. 10 W.
Two miles and a-Iialf farther around the shore, is a long point of
massive, coarse white granite, containing inclusions of dark biotite-
giieiss, while just behiml is a high rounded hill of dark-gray biotite
gneiss striking N. 45' E. and with a vertical dip.
From the top of this hill a magnificent view may be had of tlie lake.
Towards the north and east it is dotted with many islands, while
towards the south is an extensive stretch of clear blue water. Its
shore-line is very irregular, and behind it rise low, gently sloping hills
thinly wooded with spruce and pine, often separated by extensive
swamps wooded with sniaU spruce and larch.
From this place we struck southward, at first j)ast some points of
white granite, and then for five miles straight across the open lake to
the east point of a large wouded island, composed of greenish-black
thinly foliated, fine-grained hornblcnde-biotite-gneiss, striking N. 45°
]\i. and dipping 8 45' E. at an angle of 75 . Interlaininated wiih the
gneiss arc somi; bands of wiiite quartz. The surface is smoothed, and
on tlie summit are glacial grooves trending S. 15 W. In the last
stretch, the water in the lake was found to have an average de])th of
twenty-eight fathoms, with a greatest depth of thirty-two and a-half
fathoms. From this island we crossed for three miles, to a small bare
island of massive \ery coar.se white granite, consisting chieily of
(juartz and orthocla.se, with a sTuall quantity of biotite, and black
tourmaline in large crystals. A mile and a-half farther on, ir a large
island of similar white, but finer grain(,'d, granite. Two miles farther
is a long bar of boulders, forming the north point of a very large rocky
island or peninsula. A mile and a-half farther south, we camped on a
boggy spot at the foot of a hill on the south side of a point, in north
latitude 58 7' 40". The hill is 250 feet high, <ind is composed of a
coar.sely granular red biotitivgneiss foliatt.'d N. G5 E.
For nine miles farther south, the .shore is very irregular and com-
posed of similar reddish gnei.ss rising in hills from 100 to 300 feet
in height, with a fairly persistent strike, N. 40' to G5 E. The summits
and south-west sides of many of these hills are covered with sand and
boulders. Wherever glacial striie were observivl they trend S. 30' W.
I.IIW >llCll'l'.
From here we turnt^d south-westward for eight miles, along the strike
of the gneiss, in a channel from a mile to two m "
large island to the east and the low shore to tiie west
a large island or of the mainland was not determinecj
wide, between a
t, but whether of
This shore is
TYUnELI.. 1
thickly strewn with b(
were seen at but a fe\
shore are low and chie
From the end of thi
granite islands piled ai
Indians had lately bee
and banks of sand, bei
places along the shore,
nothing could be detc
hills. Among the peb
line limestone.
From this sand-beac
to a point, and tlien s
Bay, which is fourteei
similar red granite and
narrow esker-like ridge
camji was pitched on tl
beach ten feet above th
.shore-line five feet high
on a b(id of boulders, 1:
with spruce and pine,
almost all the surface i
ing a I'lrge number of i
The next morning wi
Nekweaza Bay, where
course for a short dista
into an irregular arm c
a small band of Chipp
could catch in tlwur no
able to shoot. We in(
canoe-route from this li
to C^hurchill River. 1
bay a short distance
IndiaiH u.sed to travel i
lliver, but that it had
fires had doubtless kill
be blocked up by wind
information as they h
mation was rather dis]
of a river Mowing from
of one of its branche
lliver was not far dist
•1
WOLLASTON LAKE.
91 I)
thickly strewn with boulders, and low exposures of reddish-gray gneiss
were seen at but a few places. Some wooded islands lying oif the
shore are low and chiefly composed of boulder?.
From the end of this channel we struck westwai'd, past some red
granite islands piled around with boulders, to a sandy beach where
Indians had lately been camped. High sand-hills rise here and there, Siiiid-liills.
and banks of sand, being sections of these sand hills, occur at various
places along the shore, but their faces are so covered with talus that
nothing could be determined from them as to the structure of the
hills. Among the pebbles found on the beach was one of white crystal-
line limestone.
From this sand-beach we turned eastward for two miles and a-half,
to a point, and then southward down the west shore of Nekweaza Xekwiazu
Bay, which is fourteen miles in depth. The shore is composed of '"*-^''
similar red granite and gneiss, and some of the islands lying off it are
narrow esker-like ridges of sand. On the evening of August 23rd,
camp was pitched on the shore in north latitude 57° 48' 48" on a gravel
beach ten feet above tiie lake. Just behind the camp was an old gravel
.shore-line five feet higher. Towards the .south- west was a swamp lying
on a bed of boulders, beyond which was a high rounded hill, wooded
with spruce and pine. Its centre co'iisists of a reddish gneiss, while
almost all the .surface is covered with a fine reddish sand or silt, hold-
ing a hirge number of rounded boulders.
The next morning we travelled down to the southern extremity of
Nekweaza Bay, where it ends in a wide marsh. We retraced our
course for a short distance, and then turned westward for four miles,
into an irregular arm of the buy, near the bottom of which we found
a small band of Chippewyan Indians in camp, living on the Hsh they Indinu cmiii).
could catch in their nets, and what partridges and ducks tiiey were
able to shoot. We imjuired from these Indians about any available
canoe-route from this lake through the unexplored country southward Hcmtutu
to Churchill Riv.M-. They informed us that a river flowed into this i{'\'."',';''''''
bay a short distance south of their camp, and tliat nuxny years ago
Indiana used to travel up tliis riven- and ci'oss to a tributary of Churchill
River, but that it had not been used for a long time, that many forest
fires had doubtless killed much of the timber that the portages would
be blocked up l)y winilfalls, but tliat they could not give any certain
information as they had never tiavelled over the route. This infor-
mation was rather dispiriting, but at least it told us of the existence
of a river llowing from the south, that had been followed to the source
of one of its branches from which a passable tiibutary of Churchill
lliver was not far distant.
I
,: -i
' ' ' II
: I;
92 D
ATHABASCA LAKK AND CHURCHILL RIVER.
J
woi,t,.\s-
])l\ i>inll(.rilll
p:iilv.
It was deckled to divide the party. The provisions, about ten days'
rations jier man, were a]iportioned to eacii. The writer took one canoe,
with the three men employed at Ilo a la Crosse, who, after consider
abl(! hesitation and an evenin;^'s talk over the matter amony tlieiii-
selves, afjreed to accompany him, and bej,'an the ascent of the river,
here c died Geikie Uiver, in honour of Prof(^ss()r -lames (leikie, of Ivl-
inhurgh, who has done so much to foster the study of j,dacial yeolony.
Mr. Dowling took two canoes and four men, with instructions to
follow the south shore of Wollaston Lake, and |)avid Thompson's
Canoe Hiver to Heindeer Lake, where supplies could bo obtained at
the Hudson's Bay Company's post. Thence he would fiontinue tlie
survey southward to the south end of Heindeer Lake, down iteindeer
Hiver to its junction with the Churchill, anil up that I'iver to
Stanley .Mission, connecting with the survey of t\w i'iver previously
made by Mr. Fawcett, of the Dominion Lands l>ranch of the Depjlrt-
nient of Interior. l'''rom Stanley he was to continue southward by Lac
la l{()nge, and the Montreal River to Prince Albert.
>rr. Dnulirit;'^ The following is Mr. Dowling's account of the work done by him on
ivi.urt.
liioiitli of
Bay.
C!
iicml -tnif
llilMinnl,.
iun -lutli
.-1m.iv,,| W
lii.st..M l.iik.
tins journey : —
" Xekweaza Hay, riiinnng soutii-westward to th" mouth of (Jeikie
l{i\er, is i)roken on its western side by many smaller bays, but its eastern
side seems to be more regiUar, and part of the shoi'o near the main lake
is nearly straight, terminating at the north in a low point, off which is
a series of long low narrow islands. Down the centre of this bay. .i
string of islands stretches from near the mouth to the easter'n shore at
the bottom of the bay. Tlu)se wiiicli were \ isited seemetl to be made
up entirely of drift, and, juiiging from their shape, many of the
others are of like material. They lie S. l'."» \\'., with theii- longest
diameters nearly parallel and approximating to tlit^ general direction
of the glacial stria'. The stria' observed on the eastern shore run
S. .'{0 W., or more nearly parallel to the side of the valh>y.
'■Several of the low narrow islaiuls oil' tiie ])oint and in the bay to
the east, are also of drift and have the same general orientation. The
larger ones and the main shore arc of Archa'an gneiss and granite, and
hav( bold shores.
'The hills bordering the south shore of the lake.are high, but sloo.!
graduallj' from the beach, with the exception of those at tlie entrance
to Compidsion Hay, where they are much steeper, rising to nearly :200
feet. Ivist of the bay higher hills are seen, some probably reaching
400 feet above the lake.
"The rock eximsui
foliation running S. VV.
Hay this is broken into
ward the granite .seems
places a slight foliation
\yn//a.-
" The country betweei
route which lea\es the so
series of small lakes to tl
llowing to Reindeer Lak
rough and rocky with li
showing a considerable
of this stream and Wolla-
low strip of land, bordere
rocky ridges of the south
several high hills, forminL
general level of this lak
western lake "out forms i
the point reached on the i
" The portages on tin? I,
and, enumeratiMl in order
(1.) Portage 300 yard>
small lake thirty feet abo\
{•2.) Portage 1200 yard
ridge of slightly foliated
to be at about the same el
{.'?.) Portage 1.^)50 yar
similar to that oi; tiie west
is well covei'ed with bo
through the burnt countrj
(4.) Portage, in low w
separating a small narrov
Middle Lake. This lake 1
into two parts by a large
miles and it varies in widt
half a mile to the south. 1
and it is possible that this
outlet wius not seen. Th
J
WOLLASTOX LAKK TO UKl.VDKKK LAKK.
m I)
"The rock exposures near (JeiUie Kivei' are of (lark-ttray ij;ii(;iss, tiiiciss imr?
folia ti(jn riimiin<,' S. \V. to S. oo W., hut iieai' tlii^ inoutli Nek\v(^aza "^
l>ay this is broken into hy i i(!(i unfoliated granite and tiienee east-
ward tlie granite seem-; to have replaced the darker lock, though in
places a slight foliation was noticed."
Wiillaston Lah' to Rnludi i-r Lakr.
.■I •
■ ?
i "'.
f I
" The country between these two lakes was traversed o i the canoe-
route which lea\ es the south-eastern end of WoUaston Lake, crossing a
series of small lakes to the head-waters of a small stream, Canoe Uiver,
tlowing to Reindeer Lake. The general character of the country is
rough and rocky with little soil, and in the valley of the Canoe River
showing a tMinsiderable deposit of sand. ISetween the head-waters
of this stream and Wtillastoii Lake, the lakes crossed apjjcar to occupy a
low strip of land, bordei'ed on the south by a continuation of the high
rocky ridges of the south slioreof WoUaston Lake, and on the north by
si'veral high hills, forming tiius a wide valley opening to the east. The
general level of this lake country is but slightly above that of the
western lake but forms a pilateau sixty feet above Canoe Hivcr at
the point reached on the route.
" The portages on tin; lake portion of the route are nine in nund)er,
and, enumerated in order from the westward, are as follows ; -
(1.) Portage 300 yards, from east side of Compulsion l>ay to a
small lake thirty feet above Wollaston Lake.
(2.) Portage 1200 yai'ds, mostly through swamjt, l)ut crossing a
ridge of slightly foliated granite. The lakes at either eiiil appear
to be at about the same elevation.
(.'i.) Portage X'lhO yards. This crosses a ridge of dark gneiss
similar to that on tiie west side of Wollaston Lake. The country her(>
is well covere<l with boulders, many appearing on the trail and
through the bui'iit country.
(4.) Portage, in low water made ovei' a narrow strip of swamp,
separating a small nai-row lake from a larger one to the east, called
Middle Lake, 'i'his lake lies in a north-and-soutli direction, divided
into two parts by a large island. The extreme length is abt)ut live
miles and it varies in width from a mile or more at th<' north end to
half a ndle to the south. There seems to be lower country to the east,
and it is possible that this lake drains to the Canoe Kiver, though its
outlet wfvs not seen. The succeeding lakes are all on a lower level,
('li:ir;ictiT iif
liilii- country
cast cif ( '(Mii-
piilsiiiii liiiy.
I'lirta^rrs on
laiiiif nnitc
triiMi Wdlla.s-
lull I.aUc to
< 'aiidf Ivivrr.
.Mid.llc Lake.
: S
i !
94 n
ATHAb'^SCA f.AKK AND CIIUItCHILL RIVKH.
Viill.'.v of
Canoe River.
Sand tcniict'.
( illeiss of
louci- part of
CiUiiM' Rivir.
!••;
ill iM river.
and the intervening barriers in a great measure appear to be of
boulders and saim.
(•").) Portage, 900 yards. A ridge twenty feet higli separates Middle
Tiake from the next lake to the east, which is n-ai'ly twenty feet
lower. The barrier is composed of boulders and small stone.i, and may
allow the passage through it of the surplus water from Middle Lake.
(0.) Portage, 200 yard-!, to the western side of a shallow pond, dotted
with large boulders.
(7.) and (8.) Portages cross narrow strips of low country separating
three lakes, draining to one another an<l to the Canoe lliver.
(9.) Portage, ii'M yard-*, from the last lake of the chain to the Canoe
liiver. The lake is situated on the edge of the valley and is sixty feet
above the bed of the stream. A small ri'ulet trickles down the slope,
oozing out thi'ough the boulder and gi'avei-strewn margin of the lake,
and joins the stream just above the portage camping place.
" The valley of the upper part of Canoe iiiver is cut through a sandy
plain wiiieh appears to be the surface of a deposit of considerable
depth, hiding nearly all the underlying rock except the tops of what
aj)pear to be gi'anite ridges. A distance of li'.e or six miles down the
stream to the south-east brings us out of this sandy country, and then
the river traverses a low swampy flat by ma'i_v crooked windings till it
joins a small lake variously named Swan Lake or Martin Lake. From
the hills at the eastern side, the country to the west has the appearance
of a rough ridge, smoothed in outline by the sand deposit which seems
to be in the form of a belt or terrace running north and south flanking
the eastern edge of the high country.
"To the east, between Swan Lake and Keindeer Lake, is again ii
rough rocky country, but at a general level much below tiiat of the head-
watei's of Canoe ]{iver. Through this the stream follows an irregular
depression or valie}', falling over many letlges of rook or barriers of
boulders, l^'ine reddish gneiss is seen along the eastern side of Swan
Lake, terrii<;es of gravel and sand are cut through by the river below
the outlet and at the second rapid dark hornblende-gneiss is exposed
in small ledges. The lower [lart of the valley is covered by a thick
coating of glacial debris and no exposures of rock were noted.
"The fall in the ri»'er, from the highest point reached, is estimated as
about forty feet to Swan Lake with an additional eighty feet to
Reindeer Lake.
"Middle Lake
Reindeer Lake."
" I5y I'eferonce to
very extensive am
narrow towjvrds th(
The total length, fr.
at the north end, is i
part averages 30 m
numerous array of isl
Vermilion Point cm
the northern part
seen dotting the moi
of a rough, rocky ch.
though glaciated anc
nund)er of islands s
country at the nortl
iiills appi-ar as bare
small birch 's, howev
Tlie western shore, s
wooded, though the s
" The rock near tlu
the western shoi'e
crystals of felsjjar is
south-west, though In
whitish granite, wliiel
islands, as well as da
sions. On the east s
Porcupine Point the
felspar being ai'rangec
trusive veins of a lig
same intrusive graniti
miles north of Pi'it'st's^
coarse in texture, witl
gives the appearance e
" The western shore
so that the eastern sh(
nearly all bosses of ro
covered with a slight
RKINIJKEH LAKE.
Of) D
" -Middle Lake is estimated as standing at about 200 feet above
lleindeer Lalie."
Reindeer Lake, /rest shon'.
" iJy I'L't'eronce to tiie map it will be seen that this lake, which is
very extensive and of large area in its northern V)art, becomes
narrow towfvrds the south, ending in a long arm tilled with islands.
The total length, from the outlet to the Hudson's Bay Cimipany's post (iimnil
at the north end, is more than 135 miles, wliile the width of the northern '''■^"'i|''i"i'-
part averages 30 miles. The shores generally are flanked by a very
numerous array of islands of all sizes, and a stringof islands reaching from
V^ermilion Point on the west to Porcupine Point on the east, divides
the northern part into two large portions in whic!' other islands are
seen dotting the more open spaces. The whole of the western shore is
of a rough, rocky character. The uneven surface of the Archa'an ro.'ks
though glaciated and the hills partly rounded, is clearly shown by the
number of islands scattered all along the shores. The surface of the
country at the north is very poorly wooded and islands and several
hills appi'ar as bare rocks. A blender growth of black spruce and
small birch -s, however, found to the extreme northern limit of the lake.
The western shore, southward from near Oanoo ]{iver, is fairly well
wooded, though tiie soil is thin and is found mainly in the lower parts.
"The rock near the north-castei-n part is chiefly a red granite. On (iiaiiiti •irmis
, ,. . . • 1 , ... Ill MOlllltlll
the western shore a reddish gramte-gneiss witli large porpliyrilic pint of lukf.
crystals of felsj)ar is the prevailing rock The foliation runs about
south-west, though local variations from this are found. liands of a
whitish granite, which may be intrusive, are seen on sonif! of the small
islands, as well as dark dioritic patches which also appear to be intru-
sions. On the (!ast side, the same granitic-gneiss was seen, and near
Porcupin(! Point the foliatioii is more distinct, the large crystals of
felspar being arranged more in the form of interrupted bands. In-
trusive veins of a light flesh-eoloui'd peffuiatite cut the gneiss. The ,
." . . IlltlllSlVI'
.same intrusive granite is seen Mgain on a point at the west side sixteen gnmiti'.
miles norlli of Priest's Point. It is in the form of a large bo.ss, and is
coarse in texture, with the peculiar arrangement of the quartz which
gives the appearance of graphic granite.
"The western .shore from N'ei'inilion Point was followed southward, Wist.sliorc
so that the eastt!rn shore is still indefinite. The numerous islands are v','!,.„',i"i,,„
nearly all bos.ses of rock more or less roundeil by glacial action and l'"i'i^
covered with a slight groM'th of small spruce, the immediate surface
i 1
I- I
i*
fir
) I)
ATlIAllASf'A LAKK AM) CUUHCUWA. ItlVKIt.
TiiiilHi'.
lloniM.inlr
'rii(iiM|isiiii
Maii.l.
I'iiiid of (liir
iiiica-scliist.
I'yiitr^ in
^'iiHiss on
('.■iinpini,'
MillKl.
buck from tlie wiitpr-miirk heinj^fjcin'riilly carpeted with ntliick growth
of till' lij,'lit yollow icitidecr moss. Tliou,i,'h tlicsc ishiiuls arc usually
high, the main land is gi-nuruUy still higher, aud ofttMi the main shore
is easily traced because bare from forest tires, while all the islands, with
a few exceptions, are still green. To the south, and especially in the
nari'ow portion, Ixith the hills forming tli(^ mainland on both sides and
the islands, appear to rise higher than at the north, giving that partof
the lake a very picturesque appearance. The timber also, in the south,
is of a more varied nature. There, spruce, poplar and birch are found,
but nortli of the middle of the lake, poplar is rarely seen anil tin; small
spruce is the prim ipal tree.
" The rocks at \'ermilion Point are of spotted red granite-gneiss,
which extend northward to the limit of the lake and appear in about
the same position, the beds standing at a high angle running H. \V.
and N. K. .\t Thomj)son Tsiand, the largest and highest south of
Vermilion Point, they give place to a series of hornblende-inica-
gneisses, followed on the |K)int to the south by t'mv.v, lanunated beds ap-
proaching schists. These to the east arc^ found to alternate with granite,
and for a consideral)le distance south, to near Priest'.s Point, the rock
is a banded series of granites and thin beds of mica schist i)roken into
l)y the graphic granite numtioned previously. N(!ar Thompson Island
the beds run \\'. S. W. and Iv N. K., Init again in a short distance are
found slightly twisted or wavy, although preser\iiig a general parallel
strike to that first noted.
" From Priest's Pointr, the lake gradually narrows from a minimum
width of four miles, to a narrow inlet l(;ss than a mile wide at the
outlet, and the course of this part lies very nearly S. W. and N. E.,
following in a general way the strike of the rocks. A band of dark
k mica-schists is crossed, reaching from near Priest's I'oint to twenty
miles S. W., and along the couise followed through the islands many
small dykes of a quartzose fine-grained granite were found, in which iron
pyrites is freely developed. The beds of fine-grained gneiss on Camping
Island ten miles south from Priest's Point, are also found with many
veins of pyrites and on the hill in the centre of the island many of the
beds are very much rusted and decomposi^d. The pyrites is found to
contain a small percentage of nickel and traces of coljalt. At the
north side of a small creek on the west shore, south-west from Camping
I.sland, the Indians report a soft soapstone or serpentinous rock from
wliich they make pipes, but a visit to th" locality did not result in
finding this rock, which was then said to 1)8 obtained in mall pieces
from the shore ami generally under the water. The rock tliere, wa.s
rvDReu.]
however, a light gi
or less cleavable po
named. The? strati
ing gnei.sse.s, could
out, so that it is j
highly altered \hu,
south is a dark gari
to the outlet of the
"Reindeer Hi ver
one of the largest hi
all of clear water, am
clear and cold, fori
Churchill aboxc tlu.
which it I'uns is an i
the gneiss. From i
e.\ist by which the w
expansion to the sout
rocky island, it ]>asse
rapids and falls separ
river and turns to the
in heiglit, over ledges (
rocky islet (ifty yards
The second, which is
sand Portage, so nar
opposite the portage.
gnei.ss running S. ]')
river in this course ru
there to the Churchill
eastward of this line.
sand Portage, and on
wliitish intrusive gran
"The river narrows
a low swamjiy Hat con
swampy stretch, there
over ledges of dark giu
steep banks make it dt
name of the Devil's Rii
treacherous place.
1
.]
KI'.INDKKU UIV|-,I{.
'J7 I.
liDWcver, a li^jlit "trccn scricitc scliist, iiiul it is possiljle that unfoliatetl Scricito-
oi' loss cU'avalilo ]ii)i'ti()iis (if this mi;,'iit Ik; sot'l (.'n()U,i,'li for tlic purjiosc
iiiidumI. Tiic stratij^raphical rclatioiiH of this band witii the suri'ouad-
inj^ fjnoisses, could not in tlio time at tho disposal of the party bo inado
out, HO that It is probleniatital wiictlioi' this may be a small area of
hijiiily altfi'i'd lluionian 1)(m1s or not. Tin! next rock occuitIhj; to the
south is a dark liarnetiferous gneiss, follower I by reddisii granitic gneiss
to the outlet of the lake."
Ji'n!iidi'>'r River.
w
\'ii11.y of
lit inili'iT
"Roiiult'or 7? Ivor drains Ucindcer riakoinlnChui'chill Hivrr, and forms
one of tho largest branches of that river. The lakes to the north aro
all of clear water, and lleindpor liiver is remarkable in being beautifully
clear and cold, forming thus a contrast to the dark water of the
Ciiureiiill above the junction of the two streams. The? valley through
which it runs is an irregular depression following roughly the trend of
the gneiss. l''rom the south end of {{eindecr Lake, two outlets
exist by which the waters How with slight cui'rent to a round lake-
exjiansion to tiie south. T'iionce, falling out by the east side around a
rocky island, it passes in succession through two lake-expansions with
ra])ids and falls separating them, before it assumes the dimensions of a
river and tui'ns to the south. Tho tirst fall on leaving the lake is ten feet
in height, over lcdg(>s of gneiss. The portage past this is across a narrow
rocky islet fifty yards wide, and is known locally as the Rock Portage.
Till! second, which is between tlie next two lakes, is called the White-
sand Portage, so named from the elifVs of sand on the north side,
opposite the portage. The rock expo.sed on the portage is a dark
gneiss running S. 1.^ \V. or N. !•") E., and standing vertical. Tlie
river in this course runs to the eastwards about live miles, and from
there to tho Churchill bears due .south, though tho main part lies to the
eastward of this line. The dark iiornblende-gneiss found at the White-
sand Portage, and on the lake to the cast, is cut in a few places by a
whitish intiusiv(! ttranite.
"Tho river narrows after turning to tlu! south and flows through
a low swampy flat confined l)(!tween high ridges. Before entering the
swampy stretch, tliere is a shar]) bend at which tlie river falls slightly
over ledges of dark gneiss, and the many eddies along the face of the
steep banks make it dangerous for small boats. The plat^e bears the
name of the Devil's llapids, and expresses the Indian's fear of this as a ''''^'.''■'
•^ '^ Kiipiils.
treacherous place.
ItiicK' mill
W'liitvsaiiil
l».rra(.'cs.
1 (
1
'a
1
1 ■
t
[ '1
j
i i w
\¥
I (
98 i>
ATIIAIIA8CA LAKK AND CIII'KCIIII.r, ItirKli.
" In tills swampy tniut, tlic banks aio mostly a mossy swamp and
tli's current is not strong, l)Ut vtM'y rej^ular. Turning sliglitly to
tln! oust, a wide lllk('■(^\J)ansilln is ri'osaed. lligli hills surround this,
and a nari'ow passage of a nuarlor of a milo coiinei'l'i with anotlitr
called Red-hill Laki!. A branch of tlie river is said to leave the lake
above Devil's Mapid, and by a detour to the oast to again join the
main stream at Mod hill Lake. On Mr. Cochrani 's survey, this branch
H((l llill l<uk<' is called the Stump itivcr. To the east of the mouth of this river, a
pronunent hill with red colouring along the I'idge, forms a veiy
marked feature. On a nearer vi(!w, this rod colouring is found to
be duo to the dci)ris of a decomposed band occupying the crest of the
ridge. The rock has been very higlily charged with iron o.\id(;s and
pyrites. The strike of the beds is S. 10 K., with dip eastwaril at
angles vai'ying from (30 to 80 . Several lai'go seams of reil granite cut
into the hill and break up the beds somewhat.
1111(1 Stiniii
Kivcr.
lU'il Hill.
Oclm
liitnisivr
Wliitc ItiMi-
miitc til
(Jliiiicliill
Hiv.i-.
Stccii Ilil
I'ortagc.
" A section of the hill shows a light, coarse gneiss near the bottom,
with a dark mica-schist, followed by a bed of light rusty coloured
gneiss having a thickness of about Hvo foot. This in some places seems
to have been vt^ry rich in i)yrites and is weathei'e<l out to a reddish
ochi'o. The outcrop is just below the crest of the ridge, and from it
the t)chre falling down, stains the whole face of the hill. Above, on
the sunnnit the rock is mostly a dark-rod gneiss.
"The river between Ked-hill Lake and Steep J lill Portage, r'nis
directly .south, passing through .several .unall lake-like expansions, on
which the rocks are found to be generally gneiss, dipping to the
north-east, but cut into by largo dykes of red granite. Large bosses
of this same intrusive nuiterial are seen at the middle distance or just
north of tlie mouth of White River. Above^ the Steep Hill Portage,
the river broadens out to a lake about two miles in diameter. Into
the north-western corner a branch of the l{eindeer River enters from the
west. This stream, the White River, drains White Lake, iito which
tw(» branches fall — one from Whitefisli Lake and the otlur said by
the Indians to bo a small channel draining from the Churchill River
above Stanley Mission. The usual route from Staidey to lleindeer
Lake is by this stream and the White River. Another route, said to
be feasible for large York boats, is from Roindeei- Lake up tlie \'er-
milion River, which enters on the western shore, to N'erniilion Lake,
thence up still farther to a second lake and southward to the Churchill
by a stream said to be large and of easy fall to the English River near
Stanley.
"At the Steep Hill Portage, light clay is soon in greater <]uantities
than farther north. A ridge of clay thirty-five feet high is crossed
*Hl'|H)rt of PrOglL'H.S, (ifol.
KRINDKBIt RIVeit.
90 n
in iiiiikiiit; the ptirtiigc. Tlio lako iihovo drains to tlie ooHt unci falls
over a Htoc^p IihIj^c, Ijctwcon tlir('(! islands, at the KXitlicast corner,
nmkiiig ahout twenty ft'ct fall. The boats liav(! to ix' portaged hero as
well as the gofula. The sides of the valley are niorci thickly tiniiu'riui
with pf)plar, and a few small trees of white spiuee were nnti<'ed a few
miles helciw I he Steep llill i'oi'tage. Th<^ livi.'r makes a lung Ik^ikI to
the <'ast and then south, jiassing through a wide Irtke-likfi expansion
with many islands, narrowing at places, in vhieli the current is found
(piit(( strong, i)ut geniMally, from the .Stee|i Uiil IJapids to near the
mouth of the river at the Deer i{apids, tlu; river is wide with little
current. Fi'om its eastward bend it tui ns to S.S.W, and inaintains
a very uniform course to its mouth, following a valley which is parallel
to the strike of the gneiss. The sides of the valley are clutlied with
small poplar, shuwing patches of the darker foliage of the spruce.
X'eins of a I'cddish pegmatite are occasionally seen cutting the , "leiss,
and larger masses occur on the (Nist shore ahove Deer Mapid.
'I'he last interruption to the navigation of the stream is at i)eer Diii' l!iii)icl».
Uapiil, ahout two miles north from Churchill Miver, where there is a
fall of about five feet over a ledge (»f gneiss. Uelow this is a wide
deep channel, in which the current is almost inijuirceptible. The
junction of these two streams may h". said to occur in a narrow nioon-
shaped lake, occujiying a depression in the valley conunon to both
streams. The Reindeer Hiver enters at the north end and the Churchill
at the .south-west ; while the outlet is from the east side by a narrow
gap, through which the river pours in a wild rapid. ISelow this the
Jjidians report the remains of a trading post, which is probably the
site of old Fairford House.
"The water of the Churchill is found to be vei'v much darker in ciiariictci- of
colour than that from the north, and evidently contains '"uch niore ^"^''Ji', j,'l'^.^'i;||j"l
01-1,'anic matter, as the shoi'es show a grcat(?r profusion of aijuatic jilants <[lini(liill
and the submerged surfaces of rocks bear an abundant growth of
sponges and th'i smaller forms of alga'. On the IJeindeer Hiver and the
lak(!S above, all the submerged rocks appear bare and clear.
A chemical examination of tlu; waters from Reindeer Lake and
Churchill River was made by Dr. ¥. D. Adams in the Laboratory of
the Survey in 1882.* In summing up the general results, Dr. Adams
says ; — " Of the foregoing waters that from Reindeer Lake is remark-
able for the small amount of dissolved solid matter which it con-
tains ; in this regard it would take rank with the waters of Bala
t.'.
•'; li
*Ui'|>()rt()f I'rogius.s, (it-ol. Surv. Can., 18S()H2, ]>. i> H.
I i
i i
I \
I '
lit
100 i>
ATIIAIIASCA I,AKK AND CIIUIICIIIM, IIIVKU.
rvmiii.
('Iiiiii'liiil
liaiul III' (lark
fC'liist in
Cflltl'C of
viillcy ni'iii-
Triidr I'di-
'I'la.I.'
^lll■lil^,'••
t,'llri.sscs.
( lllci^scM (ll
Cliiinliill
l!i\ri' aliiiv
'I'la.lr I'm-
taj.'!'.
T.ivkc, .Mnionotlishir*', WiiIch, and Lorli K.itriiu', I't'illishirc, Hcot-
tTiiid * * *."
"Tilt! lii'st full on llic ('liiirchill Ilivn- iilioNt' tho mouth of licindicr
Hivci', is II si('t'i> descent if lifleen fcei, over dark ^reeniili scliisis,
folininj,' svlial is ealled tlie Kettle l''all. A poftuge of I .'!U yards is
made on the mii'lli side o\oi' a led^e of these schists,
'■ I'p to Ciinjiirini,' Creek, the course is iilili(]uely across the strike of
the ^jiieisses, and those crossed are of the followiiif; vai'ieties. — A dark
t'lieiss, forniiiit; a wide liand. follows the valley of the Iteindeer Hiver and
is expose<i on the Churchill u)i to near tlie Kettle l''all, where we cross
dark green hornhlende-sehists, fornuii^' a hand nearly a mile wide
I'unninj,' to the south. A f,MaMitic j,'iieiss iiccujiies most of the lake
al)o\e Kettle {''all, hut at the western extremity a dark hand of line
j^raiiied hoi'nhlendic j,'nei.ss, in many places a black scliist, is found to
occupy the hottom of a \alley, which here reaches the lake comiii;;
from the south and south-west, and in which the upjier extension of the
Churchill Hiver runs. This dark band appears to have been more
easily rlenuded than the i.'ranitic rocks ajiparently tlankini; it on both
aides, so that to near the Trade I'ortajje it occupies the islands in the
channel and strips and jioints alon;,' the shores. The Trade l'ortaj;e
rocks are of the li;;ht('r granites and gneisses whicli lie along the east-
ern border of the dark band. The strike of these gneissc's above the
Trade Portage, bends more to the west and th(! dark band is seen at
intervals to Key liapid, the second above, where a long island divides
the channel into two parts. The rocksdiphero N. N. K. <' 80 . 'I'hey
are mica and garnet schists and cleave into thin lamina'.
'' Al)ove, is a long lake-expansion in which are many largv^ inlands
forming a continuous string with smidl openings between, to the end of
the lake. The north side and parts of the islamlsari! of the dark schists
ruiming about west. The U[i]M'r part of tlu; river now leaves the dark
rocks, which art! dellected to the north, and on the next lake abo\e
are found a .series of gneisses and gii'cnish schists running more in
a northerly diriH'tion, giving place on the west to lighter gneisses,
broken by many granite v(!ins and dykes. Forks Lake, into which
the outlet of Lac la Honge empties, is of larger dimensions than
those immediately below, and on it the rocks ai'e found trending to
the north and north-east. A light-coloured gneiss is found to I'ontain
a wide band of crystalline limestone, the first seen in the Lam-entian
At the end of the hike several of the small islands
are of red granite, in which patches of the gneiss occur as inclusions,
and large bosses and \eins of the same granite ar'' seen at several
places along the south shore to near Stanley Mission.
( 'lystalliiii'
liiMistu.ic nil i„ this district,
I'urKs I,aUi
"The rocks are eve
the granitic rocks thi
gneis.o's and schists ;
Trade Portage, the di
are about S. :\-2 W,
" 'I'he gneis.ses of
follow roller), ly tlm Cll
turbance, merely a ;
Hearing Staidey Mj.ss
prominent dark band
succeeding b ds on th
past which the gneissi
" From Staidey .Mis
of south, and the u
canoe-route leads are
same band is followed
moifth of the Mig Ston
found to run is about
" These gneisses are
laii,'!' phenocrysts of
black uiatiix. Unde
is ajiparent. Farther
be.ided structure —the
arranged in a series of
of finer gnei-isic and sd
contrast in colour briii;;
by th(> accompanying j
end of a long point or i;
live miles north of the i
" The succeeding bedi
route near Staidey, Th
approaching a schist, f(
narrow band of less tha
coai se-grained gneis.s.
" A covering of drift
the south-west corner of
apparently covered in
forming a plateau exten
eight or ten miles of the
of the nature of the rod
Ill
I'P
1
(MIUHCIIII.I, ltIVI.lt,
1(1 1
" Tlu' I'Dcks iiri! cvcrywlicn' j,'liii'iiitf(l and inoi'i' or loss polislud. < 'ii ( ;iaciiil Mni\<
thr. iffiinitic rocks the striiu) lire vory ol)scure, l»ut on tln' fiimr (^niiiud ij'n ,,,.'."" "
;;ii(!is:t('s 1111(1 .scliists iiro lioltiir niiirki'd, ^Vt tlio Triidi' fjiikc, iilioVo
Trado I'orta^f, llu* direction is S. 40 \\'., iind iialf way to Stiiidcy tliry
ai'o aliout S. ',\'2 \V.
"Till' j,'iit'iss('s of tlic Inwfi' ]iai't of rinncliill liivcr arc* seen to ('li.in^,'!' in
follow rou'dilv tli(! coursi^ of (lie xallcv, without any i/rcat local dis- "''•'''',. „,,
tiirhaiHC, iMcrt'ly a I'ciicral liciidini,' to follow llic Imii' curve. Mut ^I'l'i'il'V
... . . , .Ml^sluU.
iieariii;,' Staidey Mission the chaii^'e in strike! is seen to carry the
prominent dai'k hand hy a rather sluirjier curve to the north, and the
succeedint; h'ds on the west l)ec(un(! broken into hy a lij^ht ;,'raniti>,
past which the gneisses are found to he running,' to tiu! east of nortii.
" l'"roiu Hlaniey .Mission to liiic la l!on;;e the course is to the west
of south, and the yneissic hands exposed on the i)ay into wiiich the
i'aiioiMipute leads an; apparently the sivnie as at the Mission, while tiio
same hand is fuliowcd tlirouj,'li tlie cliain of islands which extend to the l!,iiiil nf
mouth of the l!iLC Xoms Kiver. Ihe ficneral direction m which iliis i.s '
found to run is ahout W.S.W.
'■ These 1,'neisses are porphyritic iji sevcr.d places, heiii;; spotted with
larye ](henoerysts of plajjiocla.se, surrounded hy a darker-almost
hlack matrix. Under tiu' microscope a decided cataclastic structure
is aj)parent. Farther south, the s(iU(M>zin<; has developed a ropy or linidid
headed structure — the uoar-.er erystalliiu' ),'ranitic materi.il heiiig ^"''""'"
.■irraii;,'c(l in a scries of lenticuhir and oval patches hetween thi^ layers
of liner j^'iieissic ,ind schistose rock that is much darker in colour. The
contrast in colour l)rini,'s out the structure very plainly as will lie seen
l)y the aeeompanyim,' plate, 'I'lie phot()j,'rapli was taken at the ,soutli
<Mid of a lonj,' jioint or island on the west shore of Lae la l^)ii;,'e, aliout
live miles north of the mouth of lilt; Stone IJiver.
"The succeeding,' heds to the westward were seen only on th(> canoe-
route near Stanley. Thoy appear to he of a line-jj;rained (;rcenish j^neiss,
apin'oachinj; a schist, forming' with the spotted <;neiss of the lake, a
narrow hand of less than a mile wide, followed to th<; west hy reddish
coai se-),'rained gneiss,
" A c(»verin|,' of drift conceals the underlying rock of the vicinity of
the .south-west corner of Lac la Uonge and extends southward, being
ajiparently coxered in turn hy a thick de|)osit of stratified sand,
forming a plateau extending north fnaii Montreal Mountain to within Drift cUpcwits
eight or ten miles of the above lake. Tn this area the only in^lication h',"|{,in^'c,'
of the nature of the rocks below is to be derived from the bouhlers,
I i
.ni
I i
102 D
ATHABASCA LAKE AND CnUUCIIILL RIVER.
Montreal
Lake.
'Icnaci' I if
>itratiti('(I
xaiifl.
TimlwT of
ccmntry m :
Muiitrcal
Lakf.
and is of course very uncertain. At the trading post between Ej,'g
Lake and Big Htone Lake, several fragments of a light-yellow dolomite
or limestone were noticed, and would seem to indicate the presence of
rocks of this kinil in the vicinity or to ihe northwaiil. Trie Indians re-
ported •''xposures of a similar rock on the south shore of Lac la Ronge,
so that the extension of the limestones of Lake Winnipegosisor of Pine
Island Lake may he expected as far north as Lac la lionge.
" INIontreal Lake is a shallow basin about thirty miles long and
from five to ten miles wide, lying to the ?>orth of Montreal Mountain
and on the sandy plateau above nicntioned. The outlet is by a small
stream tlowing northwards. This cuts gradually through the terrace,
and near the northern edge shows a section of sixty feet of stratified sand.
To tho north of the sandy terrace, the stream turns to the east and pass-
ing through several small lako-i in the drift-covered region, reaches the
south-west corner of Lac la lionge.
" The timl)er in the njcky country bordered by the southern shore of
Lac la Ronge is not large or abundant. Southward there is some im-
provement, and large individual spruce trees occur occasionally. The
'lob sticks' at I'lig Stone, Ilutlson Bay Company's post, are tine ex-
amples of these. On t!ie Montreal Kiver, small Banksian pine cover
the eastern slope of the sandy plateau. No large timber, spruce or
pine, is seen till near the lake, where at the southern end some groves
of large spruce occur. On the watershed south of Montreal and
Deer Lakes the largest tiinbe; is seen. Here the formation of the
country is evidently morainic, but southward the country slopes gently
toward the Saskatchewan River."
( ! |-,( 1
Geikie River.
^ ,,i
l.:.inv
Narrows.
Geikie River opens with a bell-shaped mouth iito the bottom of
Nek weam Bay of Wollaston Lake. The water is clear, but of a slightly
brownish tinge. At the first narrows, in which there is no percept-
ible current, are high hills oi dark-gray well-foliated biotite-gneiss,
striking N. 60' E , :infl with \ertical dip. Above this is another
stretch of (juiet water studded with high elongated or dome-shaped
rocky islands, while similar hills also rise on the shore. C)ne arm of
this lakelef. runs off S. GO W. on the strike of the gneiss, but the smoke
that filled the air, caus'3d by forest fire started by the Indians, prevented
us from seeiiig how far. On the eastern shore one high point was found
to consist of CI. arse red granite. The eastern arm of the lakelet was
followed through a strait into another lake-like expansioti, the shores
(ii:(ii.(ii;ic.\i. Si iivi;v oi- ('.\N.\hA.
Anmai. I!i:rniii', \'(ii,. \'lll,, I'aut I).
i
t
.1 it
I). I!. |).)WI.INii. -I'lidto., Sept. 27, IH!1L'
r.KADKI) (INKISS
Siiutli-wi'siirii sliiiii'iif |,ac 111 I!
iiif,'.'.
IVRHEU. ]
of which are a
and thickly st
come to the ec
distance, and
recorded abov
On the eve
in latitude 5
small Banksii
Three-quar
out at a roi
dipping S. 20
with bands o
the foot of a
narrowest pa
high sandhil
gneiss were i
feet over a li
on the east s
river here c
mouth of W
Two mile!
the channel
sandy slope
57° 35' 45",
canoe. Th(
a gently ris'
and across
down forty
There is no
as shown b
This clo
straight va
and a-half,
of the san
i-ounded se
it flows b
River, a si
Above "
shores of
some higli
•]
GEIKIE UIVEK
103 D
of which are at first high rocky ridges of gneiss, and then become lower
and thickly strewn with boulders. The underlying rock here does not
come to the edge of the water, though it rcay occasionally be seen in the
distance, and is then apparently micaceous gneiss, the same as that
recorded above.
On the evening of August 2oth camp was pitched on the west bank I'lain of whiti)
in latitude 57' 38' 30", on lightly rolling white sami, wooded with
small Banksian pines.
Three-quarters of a mile above this camp, the dark-gray gneiss crops
out at a rounded point on the east bank, striking N. 70' E. and
dipping S. 20' E., at an angle of 5;")". It is cut by, and interlaminated
with bands of red pegmatite. For three miles and a-half further, to i{ivcr diM!))
the foot of a rapid, the river is deep and a hundred yards wide at its cui'icnt.
narrowest parts, with a scarcely perceptible current. In some places
high sand-hills rise on the west bcank, and occasionally low outcrops of
gneiss were also seen. The r'lpfd here reached has a fall of about three
feet over a ledge of gneiss. An island lies in the middle of the current,
on the east side of which the canoe was tracked up with a line. The
river here carries about as much water as Stone River, below the
mouth of Waterfound River.
Two miles further up stream, there is a heavy long rapid, in which Long Rapid,
the channel is wide and full of boulders. The cargo was landed on a
sandy slope on the west bank at the foot of this rapid, in latitude
57° 35' 45", and two of the men continued up the stream with the empty
canoe. The cargo was carried for 1800 yards across a portage, first up Purt.ojic.
a gently rising sandy plain, sprinkled with boulders, then into a valley
and across a deep bog, 115 yards wide, then over low sandy hills and
down forty feet into a valley, to the reedy shore of an arm of the river.
There is no sign of the underlying rock on the portage. The total rise
as shown by the aneroid, was forty-five feet.
This closed arm of the river was followed south-westward in a o, , .
Straight valley, between steep sandy banks fifty feet high, for a mile viillcy.
and a-half, until the river was again reached, flowing in a continuation
of the same valley, out of the side of which it cuts between two
rounded sand-hills, to rush down the rapids below. Above this arm
it flows between sand and gravel banks to the mouth of Poor-fish r(H>r-fiBh
River, a stream, navigable for canoes, flowing from the southwest. Kucr.
Above Poor-fish River, Geikie River widens to a small lake, the
shores of which a.'e generally wooded with spruce, through which rise
some high hills of sand and boulders. Near the south end of the lake
' • H' in!
^ \
mn
r- <•)
W
1 I
i ji
104 D
ATHABASCA LAKE AND CIIUItCHILL RIVER.
Rapid.
Rapid.
Hill of 'giieis
■Wliito'Spruct
Rapid.
is a small island of coarse, red massive biotite-granite, cut by quart/,
veins, and scored by glacial markings, trending S. 30' W.
Two miles and a-lialf further up the currentless river, between
wooded hills, there is a heavy rapid over a bed of boulders, with a total
fall of about thirty-five feet. The men hauled the canoe up this rapid,
but an easy portage GOO yards long can be made over a sandy plain on
the east bank.
Three-fiuarters of a mile above the rapid, up the river, now wide and
with swani))y banks, camp was pitched beside a little knoll of gray,
slightly reddish, very compact biotite-gneiss striking N. 00 E., and
dipping S. 30°, E. 35°.
For the next two miles the river is generally rapid, running over a
bed of boulders, and has a total fill of about thirty-iivo feet. Low
outcrops of gneiss were occasionally seen. Above these rapids, for
fourteen miles, the river is straight and wide, like a long narrow lake,
with current at a couple of places near the middle of the distance. The
shore is composed of sand-hills and wooded sandy banks, with occasional
• banks of peat. A few hills of gneiss also apj)roach the river. One of
these, six miles from the north end of this straight reach, is a high
rounded hili of an indistinctly foliated dark -gray biotite-gneiss. The
summit is well smoothed and shows many distinct parallel glacial
grooves trending west. As they differ so greatly in direction from all
the other glacial markings found on the river, they arc supposed to
have been formed by a local glacier, after the retreat of the Keewatin
glacier.
Above the quiet water of the lake the canoe was hauled up two
rapids, a quarter of a mile apart, between, hills of boulders, then
paddled for half a mile along a wide shallow piece of river to the foot
of White Spruce Kajiid, a swift narrow rapid with a fall of about
eighteen feet. The canoe was landed on the cast bank and carried
on a portage 1100 yards long beside th(^ river, over a stony hill,
and along a stony hillside through small black spruce woofls. The
rapid is a very picturesque one, the water tund)ling over a .series of
rocky barriers of gneiss, and then over and between large rounded
boulders. In places the west bank is low and sandy, and wooded with
some fine large white spruce, the first observed nn the river. Under
the trees pembina beiries, raspberries, kc , were growing in profusion.
Camp was pitched at the head of the portage on a slope covered with
reindeer moss, and a short distance back from the marshy border
of the river.
TrRHELL.'l
The next moiii
quiet river, betw
rather fine-graine(
the west bank for
pines.
For the next th
rapid, flowing bet'
silt, mixed with re
material here, as
mouth of the rive
Stone and Cree
vegetation.
At this point tl
posed of sand, but
white sand. Thes
and but one smal
striie run S. 20' W
A moo.se was hei
meat, so that we n
the morning the di
Above canij) w(
boulders, in which
The river flows in i
what irregular plai
which rise occasio
second rapid a na
biotite-gneiss outer
genei'ally parallel t
veins. At one pc
massive red and ]
fibrous hornl)lendf
iron ore. Above
feet, where tne i
on the west side i
striking along the
granite. The cam
the smooth surfac
fall.
Above the fall a
five and two feet, :
•■]
1 ;
(IKIKIK lilVER.
105 D
The next morning we continued for three miles up the straight
•quiet river, between sand ridgps, co a fall over a ledge of massive Saml ridges.
rather fine-grained red granite, past which the canoes were carried on
the west bank for 180 yards over a stony hill, through small Banksian
pines.
For the next tliree miles, the river is for the most part shallow and
rapid, flowing between hills and ridges comj)osed of fine reddish sand or
silt, mixed with rounded waterworn cobbles and boulders. The sandy
material here, as well as that along the banks all the way to the
mouth of tlu; river, is much finer and more silty than that seen on
Stone and Cree rivers, and supports a nmch stronger growth of
vegetation. „
At this point the country changes. The hills are no longer com- rimiiK'c in
cimracti'i
ciiiMitrj'.
posed of sand, but consist of gneiss or boulders inibedded in silt and '''"""'^'^'''' ''■
white sand. These boulders are almost entirely of granite or gneis.s,
and but one small one of Athabasca sandstone was found. Glacial
stria' run S. 20' W.
A moose was here shot and the following night was spent drying the Monse.
meat, .so that we might be able to cany it more readily with us. In
the morning the dried meat was put in one flour sack.
Above camp we tracked and poled up two heavy rapids over Heavy riii>i(ls
boulders, in which the river falls respectively thirty and twelve feet.
The I'ivor Hows in a sloping valley 30 to 40 feet deep cut in a some-
what irregular plain of sand and travelled cobbles and boulders, above
which rise occasional rounded liills, probably of gneisa Above the
second rapid a narrow lake four miles long was entered. A gray j;,,,.,.^^^. \.^]^f,
biotite-gneiss outci'ops at jioints here and there on its shores, striking
generall)! parallel to the course of tlie river, and cut by many granite
veins. At one point on the west side, there is a low exposure of
ma.ssive red and green granite, composed chieHy of orthoclase and
fibrous hornblende, but containing a largo (juantity of titaniferous
iron ore. Above the narrow lake is a fall, with a descent of eight -pMn.
feet, where tlie river flov/s between vertical walls of rock, that
on the west side a well-foliated biotite-gneiss with vertical dip, and
striking along the stream, that on the east side a fine-grained red
granite. The canoe was carried for 350 yards on the east side, over
the smooth surface of the granite, to a little grassy baj' above the
fall.
Above the fall are two rapids, with descents respectively of about
five and two feet, to the north end of what is known as Big Sandy
M i
it
n ^
h ' ^
Ml!
Ml';
! iilitiil
'Si
'd
t :!
106 D
ATnABASCA I-AKE AND CHT HCHILL IlIVER.
Hiv.r
Htrai);lit.
Hocks
uii|«ilislii'(l.
liiK Siuidv
Lake. ■
Kivci- a'lovc
tlic lakd.
Moraine.
Dtei) valley.
Lake. Thus far the river trends remarkably straight in a southerly
direction, its course being determined by the strike of the gneiss.
The surrounding country is much more heavily covered with drift than
most of the Arch-van areas further north and east. When e-xposed
the rocks are not polished, and glacial markings are not common.
Big Sandy Lake is fifteen miles long, from a quarter to half a mile
wide, and like the river, lies in a north-easterly and .southwesterly
direction. Generally speakinj,', it lies along the line of contact of the
massive red granite, holding a large quantity of titaniferous iron ore,
to the east, and the gray biotite-gneiss to the west. For three days
we were detained in camp on its western shore by a heavy cold storm
of wind and rain. Camp was pitched in open pine woods on a sandy
terrace ten feet above the lake. Behind us rose a gentle sandy slope,
scattered with a few boulders, to a rounded hill, a hundred feet high, of
granite and gneiss in very irregular contact and in about equal
amount. On the fourth day, September 2nd, the remainder of the
lake was surveyed in the drizzling rain. Dn both sides were ridges of
rock, or sand and boulders. The country gradually became more
barren, until the small, thinly scattered pines appeared to f(irm but an
open stubble over the surface.
The river that was found flowing into the south-west end of the lake,
does not bring in more than a third of the water that leaves the lake.
It is about fifty feet wide and is spread out thinly over coarse rounded
gravel. It comes from the east across the strike of the gneiss for a
short distance, and then turns again fi-om the south-west. On both
sides ;ire high barren hills covered with boulders. Many of the
hills have a core of gneiss. One, which was ascended, was found to
be 180 feet high. Its summit is of gray biotite-gneiss striking N.
55' E., and with vertical flip, cut by bands of red granite. Its sides
are scattered with boulders. Other hills are composed entirely, as
far as could be seen, of water-worn sand and gravel, with a few scat-
tered boulders. No definite regular arrangement of this detrital
material could be detected, but it was probablj' deposited at or near
the face of the Keewatin glacier as it gradually retreated towards the
north.
CfMup was pitched a mile find three-cjuarters above the lake in north
latitude 57 1' 15", in the bottom of a valley fifty feet deep. In front
of the tents flowed the shallow rapid stream, now only thirty feet
wide.
For half a mile above this camp the river flows in a sloping valley
a hundred feet deep, when it turns from the south-west and flows
]
OEIKIE RIVER.
'IT
11
|; IHI
107 D
through a plain of sand and gravel, above which rise occasional rounded
knobs of gray gneiss. Again it turns from the south-west in a very
narrow valley, to the north-west of which is a narrow kame composed Kiunc.
of sand and gravel. Beyond the .south-west end of the kame, on the
west bank, is a high cliff of well-foliated compact reddish-gray biotite-
gneiss striking N. 60" E., and dipping N. 30' W., at an angle of 70'.
A quarter of a mile above this hill a small lake was entered. This lake
lies live miles in a direct line from the Big Sandy Lake, and, as has
been seen, the whole of the intermediate country is buried under
stones, gravel and owirso sand borne from the face of the Keewatin
glacier.
Into the western angle of the lakelet the river issues, and above it, for
three miles and a half, it passes through a moderately level sandy
country, the boulders and coarser material becoming less frequent
up the stream. At the end of the above distance we entered another
lake, passing to the east of a narrow sandy esker-like ridge that pro- Kskcr or
jects as a long point into the water. This lake, like the others, lies in '^•""^•
a south-westerly direction, but its shores are broken and irregular. l,,|;,,.
The course followed through it, from one end to v'e othov, was eleven
miles, as measured by a boat-log, and its greatest width i i about three-
quarters of a mile. Its shores are high, with thickly wooded slones Y^■ , si,„ros.
extending down to the water, l" e islands are for the most p. rt
ridges of sand and gravel, but both they and the su'TOunding hills,
some of which rise to heights of 300 feet or more, are underlain by
gneiss. In one place glacial grooves were observed, trending S. 35 W.
Camp was pitched on the east shore, on the edge of a swamp, behind
a sandy beach, in north latitude 56' 52' 45". Behind us was a low
hill composed at the top of a well-foliated gray gneiss, striking S. 25'
W. and dipping S. 65 E. at an angle of 45 . Its surface is generally
strewn with boulders.
The river, where it flows into the south-west angle of the lake, is 35
feet wide and a foot deep, with low sandy hills flanking it on each I,o\» ."andy
side. The little stream then winds in a very crooked channel, with " "'
strong current, through an extensive marsh. At a point a mile from
the lake, a hill rises on the east bank to a height of a hundred feet
above the marsh. Near the base it is sandy, while at the top it con-
sists of a well foliated biotite-gneiss, striking south and dipping east
at an angle of 60'. Its rounded surface is rather roughlj' weathered,
but shows distinct glacial grooves, running S. 35' W. To the west is
a wide sandy valley, wooded with Banksian pines, stretching out noith-
westward into low land as far as the eye can see. In other directions
he whole surrounding country is sandy, with a few isolated hills.
I
^
l^i! ,
i I
i; -t
■ ' t
'' ti
w
108 I)
.^TIIAIIASOA LAKIO AM) rilUKCIIlLL KIVEB.
■1
Jiiiivi'i-ilmii.
West lir.iiK'li.
< Iniy liiiititr
^'ll(•i^s.
.Saiiil plain.
\.$
S.'Hirft' I if
Oeikii' Hivcr.
South-west of t\w inai'sli tlio strciiin sproads out into little elongiitcd
ponds, often not inoro tiiim a liundrpd yiirds in widtii. At one pliico
it was blocked by a beaver dam, over wlii(;li we were oblij^ed to carry
the canoe.
Camp was aj,'aiii pitched in latitude .^O' Ki', on a sandy plain
wooded with Hanksian pine at the junction of two forks of the littln
river, both of which were blocked by beavor-daiiis. The surrounding:;
country is undulating and sandy, but to the west is a hiyh hill,
the north side of the sunnnit of which is composed of gneiss, while the
south side extends into a long ridge of rounded boulders.
\V(> struggled up the west branch of the little I'iver, widcli here
varies from six to twenty f<!et in width aiul tlows through wooded sandy
country, to another small oval lake thret^ nnles long and three(|uarters
of a mile in greatest width. IJoth its east anil west shores are formed of
ridges, ap]>arently of gneiss, from 100 to .'500 feet high, and its islands
are also rouniled bosses of the sauu> rork. Many of tin; highei' points
are smoothed and polished, showing glacial striie trending S. o") W.
At one p<iinL the rock is a light-gray almost ma^si\e biotite-gneiss, the
surface of which is beautifully ])oiished and shows two sets ni glacial
stria', often separated by sharp angles, thi^ older one trending S. I3;5
W,, and the later S. 20' W. In some places the shore is composed of
a wall of boulders. The water in the lake is beautifully clear.
The stream flowing into the south end of the lake is from six to
twelve feet wide, and winds in the bottom of a shallow valli»y tlii'ough
a plain of sand and gravel. After a course of a nnle i( comes from
another small lake three-([uarters of a mik; long with wooded rocky
shores. Half a mile fai'thei' up the creek fiom this laki^ is another
small shallow lake surrounded by high s|)rucecovered hills, and almost
divided by a narrow wo (led island, appai'ently composed of sand and
boulders. A little rapid streamlet was ascended for ha'f a mile from
this lake to another shallow straggling lake, on the south shore of
wdiich camp was pitched on the eveiung of S(>[)tendjer oth, on a sandy
plain with a thick growth of small Banksian pine, in north latitude
nC 37' 35". Around us the country was low, but to the south lose a
high unbroken I'idge of spruce-covered hills, barring further progress
in that direction.
We had now reached the source of Geikie River, or at least of the
branch of it that we had lately been ascending, and it was necessary
to find some practicable route by which the canoe could be taken
across the height of land to the head of some stream llowinsi soutli-
ward towards (|
examine lli'- shij|
hunting in this
rouli! than the
the lake we crcl
brook, and eiiterl
on the east side
lighted to tnid
blocked and baiil
was (i"i0 yards I
hard sandy groiiil
sian pine, 'i'iie
lake, from the oj))
of low land into
There was no sigi
we turned southvs
on its shore are
K. 30 W., and <l
by a thin coating
again turned nort
north end of the li
into it. On each
sand and boulders
brook for eighty y
sauK! direction as I
Passing up thii
for half a mile, w
ste(^]) slope of .san(
first *Jl'5 yards bt
ridge of gneiss fo
across a sand-plai
last. This lake is
wooded .shores. V
north bank we ci
rather larger lake,
its outlet in a br
night in north lati
found to be 2'j' ea:
The work of the
which we had jus
waters flowing to
•1
IIKKJIll' or LAND.
109 i>
ward towards Churchill River. The liist iImiii; to \>i' done was to
exainino th" siioic foot hy foot, in order to discuver wiictlicr Iiidiiins
lumtin;,' in tliis \ ieiidly luul evei' entered or left this lake hy any oilier
route than the one Ity whieh we had entered it. .\t tlii! e/ist end of
the lake we crossed a narrow wooded sandy neck of land beside a
brook, and (entered another little lake a (|uarter of •>. mile in diameter,
on the east side of whieh, aft(M' lonj; and careful s.'.uch, we were de-
lij{lited to lind traces of an old ]iortai;<' route, thouf,di it was now nld |«iitii|,'i.'-
blocked and barred by underbrush and much fallen timber. The path '""'''•
was f')")0 yards luni,', and when chopped out was a very jjotid one, over
hai'd sandy ;^roiind tlii'ou;,'li a thick f,'iowth of small spruce and liank-
sian pine. The eust end of this portaj^e opmis on /i narrow, irre;,'ular
lake, from the opposite side of which a little brook Hows across a stretch
of low land into anoth(>r small lake, beside which are hinli rocky hills.
There was no sij^n of Indians havii.jj; ever travidled down this brook, so
we turned southward to the south (Mid of the lake. The rocky points
on its short! are rounded, and consist of red biotitcgneiss, striking Itiil liidtid-
S. .'50 W., and dipping S. (iO K. at an angle of .")0 , but blackened *-'■"■
by a thin coating of /;•/;((■ ila rarlt'-i. Finding no signs of a jxirtage, we
again turned northward and searched tlit! shores for two miles, to the
north end of the lake ; where a brook three feet wide was foiinu (lowing
into it. On each side were high narrow elongated hill;; or eskers of
sand and boulders, trending S. 4o W. Carrying our canoe past this
brook for eighty yards, we entoreil another small lake lying in the
same direction as the last.
Passing up this lake, to the west of which ri.se high wooded hills,
for half a mile, we found a portage; on the east bank at tiie foot of a IIrii;lit-i.f-
stee]i slope of sanil and cobbles. The portage is 32.") yards long, the '"" '" ''^'*''
tirst "J'-T) yards being up a slope of sanil and rounded cobbles, over a
ridge of gneiss forty-five feet above the lake, and the last 100 yards
across a sand-plain to the end of a lake lying tiansversely to the
last. This lake is narrow and throoquarters of a mile long, with low
woorled .shores. From its east end a brook tlows eastward, on whose
north bank we carried tlie canoe for eighty yards to another and
rather larger lake, across which we travelled for a mile and a-lialf to
its outlet in a brook si.x feet wide, near which we camped for the
night in north latitude 56" 38' 18". The variation of the compass was
found to be 2'J" east.
The work of the next few days showed us that the low sandy country T.ow smuly
which we had just crossed lies on the height of land between the '^'""" '^"
waters flowing to Wollaston Lake and those flowing to Churchill
'\..
,; i.
i'
no I)
ATll.MIASCA r.AKK AND CllUUrnil.I, IlIVKR.
•1
!i!'
1 I
River. As we Imvcscon, tho country to the luu-tli of tliis watcislicd
thickly cnvcrwl witii ch'tritiil niivtcriiil, l)ruiiM;ht liy tlic great Keewi
gliicicr iind its ;,'lat'iiil streimis luid IoiIljciI iit'iir its fioiit us it re',
tu tlie aurth.
/•'iis/f'r L'iki' II ml Jili-fr.
From ciiliij* we tlesceiKJeil ii little hrool;, that tunihled iiver lionldei's
III'iHiU MiiwiilK
wiiitliwaiil. i„ n woucleil viilley, for u iiuarterof a mile, to ii fall over u. ridyo of
green and red liornblende-j^neiss ('ontainin<{ a eonsiderahle (|uaiitity of
titaniferous iron ore in small grains. The canoe was carrii'd for I'.tO
yards on the south-east hank to the foot of the rajiid.
Hinall laki'. ''"' hiofik (inters the .south-westei'n extremity of a lander lake of very
yellow muddy water, with rather low shores fringed with lioidders,
hut with occasional points compo.sed of gneiss striking in the direction
of the long axis of the lake. One smoothly jiolished sur'face showed
' glacial striie, trending S. JS W, Tho lake is five miles and ahalf
long, and its south-Pa.st shore was followed to its north-easterri end,
where a short rapid stream was found tlowing eastward into another
lake, which was not recognised at the time, hut which we afterwards
learned to lie an ai'm of Fostei" Lak(*, so called in honour of lloiu (1. K.
Foster, Finance Minister of Canada.
yii.Mtcr LiiUe Three-quarters of a mile south-east of th" mouth of the hrook, i«( a
high island of gray hornblende-gneiss, striking S. 20' W., and with a
high dip to E. S. E. From the top of this island the lake; is seen to
extend a long distance north-eastward with a high esker-like ridge on
its north-west shore, and on the southeast shore some cliffs of sand.
Gem-rally speaking, however, the surrounding country is rathei' low,
undulating and thickly wooded.
At the time it seemed to us that this might be a laki; lyitig on the
Vermilion Kiver which flows into tho south-west side of Heindeer
Lake.
Again turning southward, for we wei'o anxious to find a passable
canoe-route in that direction, we paddled for two miles to the mouth of
a little brook two feet wide flowing into the bottom of th(! lake. Mere
({(■(■('lit triicKs we had the good fortune to find a portage newly cut out by Indians
apparently travelling .southward to He a la Crosse, and we at onco
decided, if possible, to follow them.
The portage was 250 yards long, over a flat composed of broken
fragments of gneiss. Tt leads to tho north shore of another lake four
:)f liKliiiiis,
miles long with thi(
beach is often comi
Mohind a smal
trail was again foui
this portage was u|
to the top of a hill
■iO W., while the s,
swampy sjioi'c of
was ])itchi'{l on this
Tlui next lake wi
a portage eighty yar
of gneis.s, to anotlu
liy a little brook eigl
hei'e, so we seareheil
portage, ft was !)")(
over roliitij^ countrv
is a portage 2U0 yi
beach at the bottom i
lak(( known to the In
The wind had now
progress was nnii'h ini
cold water. Its cont(
roughly e(|ual parts by
rocky, rising into hit;h
valleys. The rock is
gneiss, with a generai
large and small veins <
and the I'ock is almost
ings trending S. .'iU V
wide, with still" currei
A third of a mile low
anothtir irregular lakt
Lake. On a low rock,
on the evening of the
Circling to tin; right
seven miles in search (
a mile from where we
was run with the hal
anoth(!r winding lake i
dark-gray hornblen(le-<
■down in vertical cliffs.
-1
FO«Ti;U r.AKK AND HIVKI'
111 I>
inil»iH long with thickly wooded rooky hills oa both sides, though the
IioiilIi i.s ot'toti eompiisrd ut' lioulderH.
Itoliind II small island at the south (Mid of this lake, the fresh Indian
trail WHS iif,'ain found on a portaj^c! '2'2i) yai'ds Ion;,'. The tirst half of
this |)orta!;(f was up a saiuly slope wooded with small Manksian pine
to the top of a hill of ;,'i'ay, not very oveidy foliated gneiss, striking S.
'.'0 \\'., while the second half was down a very gentle slope to the
swampy shore of a small lake thirfy-livc feet above the last. Camp
was j)iti'hi'd on this porta^'e, in latitude ">ti 'MV 'M) .
Th(! ni'xt lake was oidy a ipiaitei' of a mile widi>, li<>yond which was
a portage eighty yards long, over a tlat composed of broken fragments
of gneiss, to another lake thrive cjuarters of a mile long, discharged
by a little brook i-ighleen inches wide ; but the Indians had not passt'd
here, so we searched back around the eastern shore till we caiue to the
portage. It was !)r)0 yards long, and led south of a high rocky hill
over rolling country of sand and Ijovdders to a small lake from which
is a portage "JUO yards long, over a saiuly litlge, to a sloping sandy
beauh at the bottom of a bay of what was afterwards found to be the
lake known to the Indians as Little Wliitefisli !.iake.
The wind had now risen very high and it began to I'ain, so that fiur
jirogress was much impeded. Tluf lake is a very prt^tty body of clear,
cold wat<M'. Its contour is very irregular, nnd it is divided into two
roughly eipial parts by a strait 7'2i) feet wide. Its shores are rugged and
rocky, rising into high thinly wooded hills and ridges, sefiarated by deep
valleys. Thf rock is an evenly foliattid reddish gray granular biotite-
gneiss, with a general striki^ S. 2") W'., and a high dip, cut by many
large and small veins of red pegmatite. There is but little sand or till,
and the rock is almost everywhere well glaciated, showing glacial mark-
ings trending S. 30' W. The lake is discharged by a stream fifty feet
wide, with still' current, (lowing between low rugged points of gneiss.
A third of a mile lower this stream tlows over two little rapids into
another irregular lake similar to, but smaller than, Little Whitefish
Lake. On a low rocky point on its shore we camped, in pouring rain,
on the evening of the eighth of Septembt-r.
Circling to tlu; right round the rocky shores of this lake, we travelled
seven miles in search of its outlet, which we at length found less than
a mile from where we entered it. The rapid at the head of the river
was run with the half-loaded canoe, and a short distance below it
another winding lake was entered. At its entrance is a point of coarse
dark-gray hornblende-granite-gneiss, cut by many joints and breaking
•down in vertical cliflFs.
Siiial
mill I
iirtiij{i-
T.-itflr
ti.sli L
Whitr
m
I'
11 'J I.
ArilAIIASI'A I, \KK AMI (III lull I I.I. IIINKII.
TiMlll.
Wo iHiKHod t'lir ilii'cc miles iiml n <|uiitli'r muli'i' tlic luikv ii.inks iiiid
LhIiiikIh (it' tliis cnidkiMl lake, iiml down ilie liscr tnr ii mile uikI tliicc.
i|iliii't<'rs itvvr l\V(» little rapids, to its ininilli in ii hike wliieii was suli-
hi«iii- j.iikc. >*"i|iieiitly t'iniiid In lie l''(istei' l,ake, and wliieli tlie Indians at Il(>ii In
riiiM.I.
lliKlin
KostiT [•:\Upm.
CriiHse at'tei'\\ai(ls told
us, was
til
iailie lake we liad let't tW(i d
ayn
liet'.iic. W'e paddled for t lii'ee(|iiai'leis (if n mile, In a lii^'li point
lit' heavily laminated ^^neiss sliikini,' S. |."i \\'.. and with almiKt nci'
tiialdip. I''i'(im tliJH point we pas.sed out into the lai'ji{e hd\e, studded
with Isl.uidH, wiieii Heddcry, one of our Cliippewyan Indians, .sud-
(jeidy recof,'iii/.ed a point where he had taken dinner in the previous
sprini:
II
e at oiiee reca
lied t
o initK
I \hi' fif
if tl
;e(if^rapliy oi the Kurroundin;,'
eoiiiitry, and as he had many times dcHeonded the river llowin;; froi'>
this lake to C'hurehill Ivivcr, all uncertainty as loour eouise was at an
end. W'e were on the re;,'ulai' liunlin;,' ijrouiuls of the lie a hi ( 'rosse
It'!' 'if our i'our>(> to that tra'liiii,' |i(ist was
Ind
iilians, aiK
I tl
le remaiiK
known tolioth our Cliippewyan.s.
W'e iunuediately turned into a Imy, rather more than half a mile
deep ami icaelied a river of eonsider.ilile size at a heavy rapid. This
ipper pjirt in ii f,'or;,'e lietweon
id
lias a (lescen
iidy ten feet ap
it of ten feet, the
• ind the lower
I't wide and over a lied of
\nv^t> lioulders. The canoe was iMiried for l!"!' yards on the north
li.iid< to a 1,'rassy ll.it at the lioltom of the rapid. .\ hundred yards
lielow, tli(! i-i\cr (i|iens into the side of a Ion;,' niii'row lako, strotehiiig
north east and south west, lielonj,'inf{ to the ;;r(iup ot lakes here ealk'd
Foster liako-i. We tarnud southward for a inilt; aiul ii-ijuarlcr and
camped on it.s we.st shore, beiiind a litthf .sandy heacli at the foot of a
.steep cliff of gneiss, slrikin;^ south-west and dipping,' north-we.st, at an
anj,de of tin . The enuntiy passed tlirouj,di duriii)^ the day rises in high
rojky hills, sand plains and hills of houlders being conspicuously
absent.
The country now slopes southward, and the deti'ital material derived
from the (h'aiiia;^e of the Keewatin glacier appears, for the most pai't,
to ha\c 1)0(511 carried away by the rapid strc.'ams, instead of lodging near
the foot of the glacier, as it had done north of tlie wattirshed.
FosttM- Lakes are said to consist of three long irregular bodies of water,
connected by short slr(!tches of ra[)id riser, and like W'ollaston Luke,
to discharge by two outlets in (i|)|iosito din^ctions, the \'(!rniilion Rivei'
(lowing north-eastward to KtundiMO' Lake, and Foster Hiver (lowing
.southward to Churchill Itiver. But the latene.ss of tlie season, and
the almost exhausted state of our provisions, prevented us from ex-
ploring the lake in aiiy other direction than towards th(; iiead of Foster
Hiver. 'i'his arm
■seeiiiled to tlu'he.id
a mile wide, but nai
arc 'ninposed of hij^
Htriking south west
Id a beach of bould,
from the head of tin'
wooded hills. Just
long iiaiiow esker lil
.vooded with a |
fertile country fiiith
would burn only pop
hill 17.'! feet high, coi
interlaminated with i
the rest of the way to
gainetifcrouH gneiss.
From the lake, Fost
the strike of the giu'is
line, it is one almost
well rounded bouldei'
poles. The river seldi
seen the rock is a darlj
of the dist.ince meiitio
stretches of (piieter w
make th(;ir appearance.
crooked rapid with a
carried on the west bai
a hill of sand and hoiiN
Half a mile furl her
ratlicr coar.segrained r(
and (lipping \. ;{(» \\',
and there with occasion
with a large pid|iortion
On enttiiiig this coui
sloping basin shaj)ed dep;
river takes a very stn
moderate current, excep
cross the stream. At tin
rospecti\ely L'7r», 200 am
winds for thnn- miles an
8
KlIKTKK I.AKI'. VM) IIIXKII.
ll.'t 11
|{ivi-i'. Tills lU'in oi llii' liike, troni llic iiioutli nt tlic iivci just, di--
Mueiuli'd to the heiitl of Fostt>r River, in lit'ti-eii milcH loiiKinul iilwut half
a mile wide, hut nario\vin<{ ill one place to l"iO feet wide. Tlu' sliores
lire .'ompoMed of lii^jli ridj^es i)f ratlicr dark rnie^raiiied l)iotite gneiss
Mti'iking soiitli wi'slw.ird. their sidt's di-seendiiig in wnuded slopes
to a l)i!aeh of lionlders. At the Handy Narrows, four mi es north-east
from the head of the rivei', there is n still' current iietwccn 'ligh lliickly
wooded hills. Just iit the f"o| of the current, on the «csl shore, is a
lung niuiMW csker like ridge of sand and houldeis, running S. .'JO W,, |.;,
tvcKHJed xsitli a pleasaiit grove of a.sptMis, giving promi.se of more
fertile cmintry furtlier south, where, as the Indians said with glcr, we
would burn only poplar. To the south-west of the .sandy ridge is i
hill IT'i feet high, composed of (hirk liighly garnetiferous hiolite gneiss,
interlaminaled with many hands of very coarse white pegmatite. lAir
the rest of the way to tin' head of the ri\er the siiores consist of sinnlar
irarnetiferouH gneiss.
l'"rom the hike, I'Vister |{iver cunlinucs to tlow in a deep \allcy along |,',
the strike of the giu'iss, and for eighteen miles, measured in a straight
line, it is one almost continuous series uf heavy rapids over a lied of
well I'ounded liouldcrs. Most of these rapids were desceiiiied wit h
poles. 'i"he ri\er seldom impinges against the rocky hanks, hut where
seen the rock is a dark gray hiotile-iineiss or schist. Towards the end
of the distance mentioned, the rapids iire separated by wide shallow
stretches of (pneter water, and hills of san I and boulders begin to
make theii' appearance. At tiie end of the eighteen nnles is a heavy
(^rooked rapid with a (h'scent of tiMi feet, past which the canoe was
carried on the west hank for •JSOyaids, cm a sandy slupe at the fool, of
a hill of siinil and lioulders, and then over a tlat of lai'ge li<iulders.
Mti'i' Kiver,
Kalf a mile further south, the river touches the foot of a hill of
rather coaisegrained I'cddish hiolite-granite-gneiss, striking S. (10 \V.
and (lipping N. .'50 W. at an angle of 10 . It is intei'laminated here
,ind there with occasional distinct dark bands of gneiss or mica-schist,
with a large projiortion uf hiotite.
On I'ntcring this country of red gneiss, the valley .s|ircads out into
sloping basinsluiped(h'pressions. At lir.st, for live nnles and a half, the
river lakes a very straight cour.se between wooded hills, having a
moch'rate current, except at thice heavy rapids where rocky bai'riers
cross the stream. At these rapids portages w ere made on the east bank»
re.specti\ely '-~^>. '-^00 and 1.M0 yards in length. Afterwards the river
winds for thnn' miles and a-half, measured as the crow tlieg. in a very
8
lllllell
1,'Ml'isS.
I'spaiul
I II
.1 ;;
It
Ill l>
\ III A I \K \ I .\K i: ;\Mi I nil r Mil i. i:i\ I u.
1/ltlll' Wllitr
tisli IJixiT.
C'liaiij;c ill
Cdursi' (if
•i(iv:\iii.
Siiii'l |i|;iiii.
sliurcs.
fruiikcd cliMiiiicI willi reedy Imiiks, '„lirmn,'li :i Iciw iiiiiisli, (ieeu)>yilig tliu
linttcini (if a basin suirouiuied hy nieky liilis.
i'elou tills iiiai'sli it diip|is in a very lieautit'ul tall, wliere a harrier
of reddish gneiss criisscs its eoursc. The ear.oi! was carried for Kit)
yards on the east hank, over rock and ihrougli swaiiij), to the foot of
tho fall. Aliout 'M){) yards helow the foot of this portage the canoe
was again put ashore on the west bank and carricid for 7i)() yards over
gently undulating sandy ground and o\er a bench of sand and rounded
cobbles, to the foot of a long rapid in which are two abrupt falls over
bands of similar gneiss.
lAir half a mile t'ari •■!■, the ii\('r continues to Mow in the same
southerly direction, until it is joined by Little \\'hilelis!i Kiver, a
stream of considerable si/e Mowing from the west.
Thus far i''oster l!iver had been a rapid torrential stri'am, Mowing in
a \eiy direct course southward in a, woll-(h;fined channel and nut
expanding into lakes. 1 1 ere it turns sharply eastward and at a distance
of a third of a mile, readies the liead of anotlier rapid, past which the
canoe was carried for L'7o yards, on the south bank. o\('r a little
hill, the centre of uliicli is of reddish gneiss, while the sides ari^ of
siind and rounded cobbles. A short distance below thi.s hill a
rounded boss of dark-gray gneiss shows distinct glacial grooves, trend-
ing S. .'ii! W. Tlirce-ipiarters of a mik' lower down the stream the
water rushes over ledges of reddish giuMss, with a descent of eight
tcet, down which tin? empty canoe was run. The load was carried
for "-'"lO vards on the south bank along a sloping rtiuniled hillsidi' over
broken fragments of slippery rock.
The count r\ uou changes considerably, the rocky hills almosi
entirely disa|)peur, and the river Mows in a narrow crookiid \alley
tiirough a sand and gra\'el plain or terrace that rises forty feet iibovi;
it. This plain gradually descends until, in latitude ;")") 58' 45" it was
found to be but three feel above tlie water. Thi^ ri\(>r, 150 feet wide,
here runs with an easy t'urrent in a chnnnel 'iverhung witii willows.
( )nc of iheni'ii was observed writing in syllabic ciiaracters on one
of the trees, and on being askeii what he had written lie answered,
" \auiukakw('> mecliiiu ' (no food at all). h'or the reinaindcM' of our
journey to lie a la Crosse w c depended on ducks shot by the way.
I'lclow this place, the sandy plain desc(Uids to the level of the
river, which tlows through a low marshy tract, until passing through a
bed of reeds, it enters a lake with bold rocky shores. Xhrefj-quarter ■'
of a mile above t
ridge, lainning
slightly foliated,
giained dark-gr;
boulders are sea
Mour. The laki
east being ahnos
west are genera
rushes down t wi
reddish gneiss.
the north bank,
second it wiis cai
gneiss, with low
A mile and
winding lake, Sa
wide, Mows in fn
below three sliorl
south bank. < )ii
stinking willow {
of the iL'th of Se
Uelow this can
northeastward f
ward to u h(>avy
gneiss, striking !"
on the west bank
light gray silt, iiu
I'liis line sand li(
Tliree-ipiai ters ol
descent of live fi
carried for IM) \
silt.
The ri\er conti
three inih;s, until
each side of whic
poplar and sjiruci
Melow ihelaM
the middle of the
tiiickly wooded s
descent of about
west side 000 va
i^*.v
KOSTI'.K IIIVF.H.
1 1"> I.
of a mile iihovc Llie lako, llic river itupin^jcs ai;aiiist lJi(> foot of a liiuli
ridijc, luiiiiiiij,' S. 15 \\'., of :\ iiicdium-iiraiiicd ri'd itraiulc, in jilacrs
slii^htly foliated, and iiitcrlaniiiialcd with occasional i)ands of niediuni
i,'raino(l dark-j^'ray mica dioritc gneiss. In tlic Ice of tlio rocky liilj
l)ould(!rs are scattered, iird'cdded in a fine white sanily claj' or rock
llour. The lako is tiirei! miles and a-iiajf lonj,', tlu> shore to the soutli
east being almost hare red granite, wliiie the rocky hills to the north-
west are generally covered with forest. IJelow the lak(! the ri\(M'
nislies down two rapids hardly a (|nai'ter of a mile a|>art, hoth o\-er
reddish gneiss. I'ast the first, the canoe was carr'icd for .">(I0 yards on
the north baidc, o\-ei' stony land covered with scrub; and past the
second it was carrie(l for "lOO yards on the soutli side over a ridge of
gneiss, with low country on hoth si(h's.
A mile and a ipiarter below the latter ]iorlage, past a iiai'row S.-mdy ( 'iitI;.
winding lake, Sandy Creek, a stream between twenty and thirty feel
wide, flows in from the noith ; and three-<piarters of a mile farther,
below three sliort rocky rapids, is a portage eighty yards long on the
south bank. < )n this jiorlage, among wockU of small while bhcli and
stinking willow ( Viliiirinini Irniinio) c.anip was pitched cmi the evening
of the I'Jth of September in hititude o'i .">' .'i.'",
I'x'low this caiup th" river continues to llovv bclween rocky banks i;i\i.|- tiiiiis
norlheastwiird torn mile and m half, and then turns sliar])ly s(juth- """"'"
ward to a heavy rapid viliere the water flows over red and dark-gray
gneiss, striking S. 10 W. Here the caiine was en rricd for .'ISO yards
on the west bank, idong the foot of a hill of gneiss, over a soil of line
light gray silt, made uji chiefly of small .'ingular grains of ('Icar <|uart/.
This line sand li(>s in all the little depressions in the rock surface.
Tlir<'c-(|uai ters of ,v mile Iowim- is anothei- short swift rapid, with a
(h'sceni of five feet over I'cddish gneiss, ]),is|, which the canoes were
carried for 1 IH vards on t he east bunk, over gneiss and the soil gray
silt.
The river continues to flow southward with a decreasing current for
three miles, until it empties into a narrow lake, three miles long, on
ejrch side of which are high gneissic hi
poplar- and s])r'irci'.
thicklv wooded with sin.'ill lfij;li ','iiiissic
hill.-^.
I'.clovv the last Lake, the river is again welldetined for- two iiiili-s. In
the middle of the distance it pass(>s tlir-ough a dee]) narr-ow valley, with
thickly wooded slopes on each side, to a i-.->pid over- boulders with a
ilescent of about fifteen feet. This rapid is passed by a por-iage on the
west side 000 vnrds lonij. throiiLch thick woods over- ,-i nart-<ivv mor-.-iinic
I 1
N
IKi I)
ATHABASCA r.AKE AND CHURCIMI.r, niVKR.
■1
I'll
.hiiii|iiiit,'-i
tlii'-wiitrr
Laic...
lliKliwull
<;iiciss.
till' I'iviT.
(ininiti'
highly
pyriti-.
with
liill, composerl of boulders imbotlded in the light gray silt. On tho
bank, at the foot of the jiortago, is a little gravel terrace. No rock in
place is exposed in tho vicinity.
The river then opens into the northern arm of Juniping-into-the-
water Lake. This lake is nine miles in length, gradually narrowing
towards li'ith ends, and bellying out towards the east, in the middle.
Its northern end has I'ather low easily sloping shores, with some
sandy beaches, while its southern shores ai'o very rugged, steep barren
rocky hills rising from the edge of the water. A pohit on a wooded
island near its centre was found to be compcsed of highly garnetiferous
biotite-gnei.ss striking S. 45' W., and dipping S. 4o K., at an angle of
T.'i . Tlie rounded surface of this gneiss is much decomposed, but shows
strong glac'al grooves trending S. 10" W. Camp was pitched on the
ovenini;' of Septem')er 13th near the south end of the lake, aniong
small poplars, at the foot of a rocky hill of reddisii-gray gneiss rather
unevenly foliated S :!.") W.
The rivei' (lows from the south end of the lake on the west side of a
high abrupt wall <>f gneiss, and sliortly afterwards tumbles down a
heavy rapid over broken masses of gneiss to (juiet water again. The
canoe was carried for 300 yai'ds on the east bank, thiough woods of
small poplar and pine, over a soil c imposed of gray clay or silt, os'er
lying a dark-gray i'ather irregularly foliated biotite-gneiss.
The next and last obstruction on this rivei' is three miles lower down,
where the water Hows in a heavy double I'apid with a descent of about
twenty-five fecit, chietly over a bed of iioulders. The canoe was carried
past it tor "iOO yards on the west baidc on a good track over a low hill
of soft gray clay or silt. The surrounding country consists chietly of
high barren rocky hills.
Two miles lower, tin- river tlows through a narrow rocky gap intn
the bottom of a ileep bay of oj-.e of the lake-like expansions of Churchill
liiver. < )n the west side of this gap is a steep rocky slope, underlain
by a rather coarse plagioclase-granite often highly charged with
pyrite. Till' pyrite has cominiuily been dissolved from the face of the
riK.'k, leaving a red or yellow porous mass and gi\ing the whole
face of the clill'a wry rough spongy appearance. At a low point just
outside the gap, a dark-green hornblende-schist lies in very irregular
contact with tiie gneiss, and at tv.\ adjoining exposure; the schisti is
irregularly I'lit by many veins of light red pegmatite. The surface of
the r.ock here is scored by glacial grooves trending S. .'{.") W.
Foster River lu
from Foster Lake;
of too feet. The
Wollaston Lake
Churchill Hivcr t
necessity of shoot
way.
The Churchill I
D. L.S., and our .^
to a recognisable
our attention was
the line of Mr. ¥
portages, camps, ai
After leaving Fi
liccome lower and
slopes from the roc
.\t the Lower X
band of thinly and
gneiss striking S. '2
interlaminated wil
granite. The surf
rougii points anil
wer<! obliged to car
liest protected by s
The Middle Nei
containing a large
rjitlier fine-grained
very nmdi jointed
is a thinly t'oliatec
granite. Needle L
long distance south
northern shore. .\
iind another south .
riilge of sand, TIk
small poplar and sf
of dark i)iotitegne
west, and further
granite rising in V
CHURCHIIiL RIVEK.
117 n
Foster River liacl now been desuendecl throuf^liout its wiiolo courso
from Foster Laivca, a distance of ninety miles, and with a total descent
of 400 feet. Tlie journey througii the unitnown country south of
Woliaston Lake had been accomplished, and it remained to return up
Churchill Hiver to Tie a la (^"rossc as cjuickly as consistent with the
necessity of shooting ducks enough to furnish us with food by the
way.
' 11
Churi'hiU Hiver.
The Churchill River had already been surveyed by ^Ir. T. Fawcett,
D. L.S,, and our e vey was continued from the mouth of Foster River
to a recognisable point on an island in Clniri'hill River, after which
our attention was devoted to sketching in additional topography filong
the lino of Mr. Fawcett's surxcy, and examining tlu' country at the
portages, camps, and at any othei- points whore we were obliged to land.
After leavirig Foster ]ii\er, the liigli hills disappear, and the shores
become lower and more gently undulating, rising in tiiickly wooded
slopes from the rocky banks.
.\L the Lower Xeedle Falls, the water drops about four feet over a
band of thinly and evenly foliated greenish-gray tine-grained biotite-
gneiss striking S. '2'i \V. and di|)ping N. (>•") W. at an angle of 80 ,
interlaminaled with some swelling and contracting bands of red
granite. The surface of this rock has been weathered into sharp
rough points and edges, and on their account, the voyageurs, who
were obliged to carry their hea\y loads over it with feet bare, or at
best protected by soft moccasins, gave it the name of Needle Portage.
Tiu^ Middle Needle Falls are over the same thiidy foliated gneiss
containing a large number of (juart/. inclusions and en,.ssoeiated with a
rather fine-grained light reddish-gray ((uart/ite. It is everywhere
very mudi jointed and broken. At the Upper Needle Falls, the rock
is a thinly foliated gneiss, irregularly interlaminated with bands of
granite. Needle Lake is a considerable body of water extending a
long distance south tif the line of travel, while deep buys indent its
northern shoi'e. A few liills rise here and there, one extending east
and another south of the lake, the lalter having the appeai'ance of a
ridge of sand. The country is more or less gencritliy wooded with
small poplai and spruce. Tiie shores towards the east are composed
i)f dark biotitt>-gnei.ss, generally dipping at a low angle toward the
west, and further westward this rock is replaced by a coarse red
granitf rising in barren rounded hills. At the west end of the lake
Kudof sMivi'v.
I,<1W( I'
Kails.
N,.,.(lli"
Mi<iaii>
Nc,.(lli'
Knlls.
U|)|IC]'
Kail.-.
.'It
118 I)
ATHABASCA LAKK AXF) CHCRCHIIJ, HIVEf!.
Siimis l{ivcr.
the rock is a whitish, red-weathering, jjranuhir graiiite oomposctl nt'
quartz and niicrociinc, in places showing,' a slight giieissic fnliatimi.
The surface is well rounded and smoothed, showing glacial mai'kings
trending S. iT) W.
Souris or Mouse River, tlows into Churchill River in a wide marsh,
circling round the north-ea t end of a high range of hilla of red gneiss,
striking S. 30~ W. Glacial grooves were observed in two places
trending respectively 8. 4.'5^ AV. and S. 50 W.
A mile and a-half above the mouth of the river is an oid fur-trading
outpost, occupied only in wintei'.
Opposite the mouth of Trout Creek are three small parallel
drumlin-like islands composed entirely of sand and boulders.
Souris Lake is a long stretch of open water, the shores of which are
for the most part well wooded with poplar. Occasionally low points
of red gneiss may be seen liere and there, but the beach is generally of
sand !ind boulders, and most of the low hills that lie back from the
shore seem to be of the same composition. W'liere we turned again
into the river the lake coiniiaied soutl.wai'd beyond the lii'iil of
vision.
Siiiikc' I\:iiii(l. Snake liapid, a mile and a-half lonj. over a bed of boulders, con
nects Souris and Snake lakes. On its north side is a sandy terrace
fifteen feet high, which gradually rises until it seems to merge in alow
Souris liukc
hill of sand and bouldf
On its south si(h! is a low hill, the summit
of which is a moderately l(!vel plain, covered with Arclncin l)oniders
ehietly of local origin. ( )n the jiortage-track beside this rapid, an In-
dian living a short distance higher up the river had two large steel
bear traps concealed and set, and some one of the j-arty would have
almost certainly been seriously injured but for a letter- written in
Chippewyan .syll>bic characters and hung on a pole waining ev,,ryone
to " look out for the hear traps on the poi-tage.'' Uidess our men had
been able to read Chippewyan, this hotter would have been of littli'
service in warning us of the danger.
.^nnke r.aUi'
ii'nake Lake was crossed against a hea\v west wini
<o rocK w;is
seen, the surrounding country being composed of woiided hills of
boulders, the highest being the ridge to the south-east of the lake.
.\ shoit distance above Snake Lake, the rock again makes ilv, a|i
jiearance, as a eoar.-e red garnetiferous hornblende gneiss, striking S.
;?0' to 3ry w,
and nior
■oi- less nearly vertical. IJelow the ' -ith of
Haultain River, it Hows with a strong current through a wide mai'sh
between long lidgt
north side of Cli
;iOO feet wide.
liac de (ien"au
bent around a Ion
This point, and, n
vv ich a forest of p(
of gneiss pi'oject
commonly strew n
The Low(>r J\iu'
lirst over a ledge
of boulders. The
of light-gray sandy
to an even san(l\
Kapids ai'c arouiu
and contains iiion
The shores of L
reddish gneiss, lisii
< )n the east sid
gneiss woodecl wit
weathered, but it :
which aic many ty]
lieaid shooting at tl
crossing the lake, w
way from He a la (
Haultain and l'\)sl
suthcient. for th(! re
Pelican liapids i;
ii red medium grail
plaee-i slightly folia
a terrace of sand ai
l''or sevei'al niiU
north-west with a i
hung with willows,
M the lowest Di
coarse led gneiss st
of GO . The surfii
polished, and up tl
•1
CHUKCIIIM, tUVKI!.
119 I)
between Ioiil' ficl''('.s of ^cneiss. Haultain Hiver, where it tlows into the lliuiltaiii
north .side of (!hur(.'hill I'ivci', o\er a slialk>w bar of s.iiid, is about
.".00 feet wide.
Lae d(! <ieii"au oi' Knee Lake is a iai'ne stretch of fairly open watei', Kiifr Lake.
i)ent around a Ion;; naiiow point extending towardi^ the south-west.
This point, and, in fact, most of the shore, consists of low hills covered
sv ich a forest of poplar, through which bare rounded points and knobs
of gneiss project lier(> and there, lietween these points the beach is
commonly strew n with boulders.
The Lower Knee Kapid is a long shalliiw stretch of water tiowing at i,;,,,,,. [{.,., |,|s,
lirst o\ er a ledge of moderately co.irse i(>d giunss, and then over a bed
of boulders. The noil li bank is a clitr t liirty feet or more; in height,
(if light-gray sandy till, holding a laige nundu'r of boulder and rising
to an even sandy plain or terrace. The -Middle and Upper Knee
llapids are around a long point of red gneiss, which becomes grayer
and contains more plagioclase on its west side.
The shores of Luke Primeau ari' generally low and composed of riiiiniiu
it'ddish gneiss, rising to some rather high hills towards the north.
< )n the east side of i'elican J^ake is a low point of reddish-grey I'.lican l-aki
gneiss wooded with poplar and willow. The surface is somewhat
weathered, but it show.- clear glacial grooves runidng S. iQ W., in
which are many tvpicid cross fractures opening .southward. Here we
heard shooting at tin mouth of the river, about four miles distant, and
crossing the lake, Wi' caine ti> a large band of (,^hippewyans on their
way frt)m lie I'l l.i (fosses to their lumting grounds in tht> north on
Haultain and {'"oster ri\ei's. l''rom tlieni provisions were obtained
sullieieni, for the remainder of Dur jnurney.
I'elicin I{a]iids is a cascade with a descent of about eight feet o\er Pdicaii
a red medium-grained biotite-gneiss, generally almost inassisc, but in '^•M'"''".
places slightly foliated X. 50 \V. The north bank below the fall is
a teri'ace of sand and boulders twenty feet high.
For several miles above I'l'lican Rapid, the river tk ws from the
north-west with a moderate current, between low sandy banks over-
hung with willows, beyond which lh(> country is wooded with poplar.
At the lowest Deer Hapid, on the south batdi, is a roundcil hill of ^^^,^,^. i{,,|,|ii.
coarse red gireiss striking S. L") W., and dipping 8. 7.")' K. at an angle
of (iO . Tilt! surface is smooth, and in many places tpiite brightly
polished, and up the stoss side and on the summit, line and coarse
!
1 I
,1
120 I)
ATIIAIUSCA I,.\KK AND CIIUHCIIILL lUVKli.
Last i'X)M).siirr
I if ArcliiiMii
rocks 1)11
("luiichill
Hiv.T.
slriii' c!in be; clearly seen ruiiiiiiig 8. 22 W. On n polished surface in
a sligiit hollow on the .summit., older strin' I'un south, but it is not
probable that tlicre is much difference in the ages of the two sets.
Above this rapid, for half a mile, to the next rapid, the rivei' (lows
from the south in a trough of this coarse red granitoid gneiss, the
sloping rock on each side being beautifully smoothed and grooved all
down its side, by the action of rlie ice-shent, which moved directly
along the a.xis of tlie trough.
A slioit distance above this rapid, a iiill of red granite rises on tlie
.south bank, being the last outcrop of Archa'an rocks .seen in the
ascent of the Chui'chiil l{i\er. A littlt higher up stream, the mouth
of .Mudjatic ]\iver was pissed, and we wei'e again in country that wo
had passed through nearly three months before.
Our circle of explorations through the country to the north had
been completed, and we huri'ied on and reached lie a la Ci'o.sse on the
evening of the i'Oth September, just as i, heavy equinoxial storm
set in.
i
Legend
t rr',11^,,1,,.
''tiiiih.-i.ii, :,\i.
httftti \( ', Sn iti si ,-,,
B
//i//,...
^,j- :"!' I.'iunnl,.,,, C.n.it,,,,/ ,/,„;sS.m
C-J^^:- M'/.'^m linitiilir l(iu/\'
/filM, /■'f1l/,lnr:\ .\i,ri/r l,fil,l,n, <■/,
fitfl' til/ .Sllfff
,/
u■^ !),■!, II, /./■ i,v//ci- m:,I t'n II II, i„f,„
ll'.lll flmi/il ,il,„yr ,v,v-
I'ur.'x: I'diIiji/i.s ! Irimlfi 11, rim,,,,;,
Kill: Kill', Ills
mil
\ .1 ' '
(^)i'iikiml*
OEOROt v>vyjON
[flS^
/*■/%
;\
/
• ■ ;
J ■ i
I
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V '
5 K
/ 'Reported /e,., ' /
g'
j 1,-
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^USKil • ...
. "••tit
.'!(?■
V :
r-
?(?
^^1"
■'i-h
!("'
.^"
r
I 1'' : A I a. A- J, \ J^'" . O /
OEOROiiV^WaON.^ MO.LLO IR.SJI, OIRECTOR
Mar
lOlo
WHO
IM"
IM"
UNt"
' t.'"'
<'^ I 'Jlfnr.itr. I
^..V li — ,1 — ^ —
Tflu Haiti tun
AL((lm\flltufy> 1. 1
•It'l
(I'l /ftir*Oc-
II
i^..^«^'
y
SB"
W)wp»tlM' hi-Hvn lU*^ L
S7"
H'Aifc •>'«"</ ^.
A>«4
A^o.
! SB"
Legend
/
K
l'lll'l:'l,lll i.M
H
B Ik.
ffnt^'u .Sifiii \t'^*i I
- ^ . I.'llimihiiii HiiOiIIoi,! ilhi'i.ssrsi
*' 'li'^'J^*'"^-' .Vr/..<'1> i:n,iiil„ li'n.fis
^ lilifv:! Slri'r
li'.KP flrn/hl ii'i'tv, sen
l*«u*.'ti- /^orfiii/f''"*' < lt*riifl^t It' rh'iitisl
Hii/i l\'iij,iil\
^''^'^ iUUs
.;
^t
( ' /•
'V v^^ ,•/ €i<^y\:. / ,(/, 'y^ .•■•'• \ X-'
/O
../
■(■ -( —
■'"'Ml. I /
"%'
^■^
.n
/ ■>
lin"
,, , , , ■ "■vmvji<,(r'-
So.'40Es OF Information
M
■hrnnc rivers from surveji by J. li. Tyrf'-,
(1 south shore (if L:.k<; Attiab.T^ca, by I). II.
TiTri'Il i?fiT. 1*1,111 I iKirl nf f'.irbr.Ttm Rlvrr
'^O', 43, '^1. S«an, Kcin l-.^r, hbj. ' ,, -'i' y,' •■'"■'.-"i ■■ »" l"" "' Coc'irano rivers from svirveyi by J. II. Tyrr-' ,
I'owliiig, iSgj. No.ib ^,llO!•c'or I'jk,. \ ■ .''■■'"' "'«>. Woli.Tlon l.akf anil south shore of I,:.li.i Alb.tb.T:ci, by D. I!,
by A. S. Oxbrar.i;, idSl. R':i'i<l.'rr'l'.,;',"'; V ' '' ^'"l*''" ^'"" ^^' •'• ^^' '•'Vf'^l'. '^'.'• ^'I'l" ' 1«'" "f Co.hr.iiie Rivci
riv.T5 by W. Osilvic, iSS^. Clcii-iv i,' '"•'- ' ' >'' '''' ^'"'"t, >82o. and "• "• D"«ling, i3l2. I'u.-.t, .Slave and Aliiahlsca
" ' ' ' ' '"11 it'ti, by T. Kaw:eit, iBSS, with .idditions by J. K. Tyrrell, i3o3.
.,1
COUNTRY BETWEEN L'ME AIH,
I ii;irt of Corhraiic River
'.asca
BSHI
.Natural Si';il
[liHT__: — r^ l-- ■ -^Ta f
/
':j
\)
L IKK
L.-'
\
-f^-'t-j^^^^'^r \/ fX^ yt^:\ \ I ^ f^
Ft ,.,U''
Kill
1 i- . nso'
LA/CK'' '
I
,,-.117
)t'^i'<>)'<v/'</ ^.
.#-#■■'
s^^^^'
ll//^,
157'
JvV'"
5 / i ^
C'^anwiUf For
ii i/^'
103»
102"
/
y\xy
ol the
^IRY BETWLtN IJ'I A'Ha\BASCA AND CHURCHILL RIVER
. lix-omfMnyuuf Hut D. . huuiaj Rt/jort lot JTll. 'i'(/S
ic('::ipiiin Hi|i,ii t ofJ liiiri'lyrrell, M.A
Natural >i;ilo — i. sni.ooo.
'^cair, i.'''' iiij/fs to / tttcji..
HJilHKHt-:
■to SV