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QUEBEC,

Lake St. John

AND THE

NEW ROUTE TO THE
FAR-FAMED

SAGUENAY.

E. T. D. CHAMBERS.

THE Toronto Lithographing Co., limited,

LITHOGRAPHERS AND PRINTERS.
1900.

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AND THE

new Route to tk f ar-famed Saduenay

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AKE ST. JOHN, the mouth of the
Saguenay, and the city of Quebec
fonn the angles, upon the map of
Canada, of an almost equilateral
triangle, the three sides of which
mark the route of the newest and
grandest of Canadian summer tours.
That portion of the trip represented
by the base of the triangle and the
lower half of its easterly side is
famous wherever the praises of the
Saguenay and the Lower St. Law-
rence have been sung. Hitherto its only drawback has been the
necessity of going twice over the same ground in one journey.
Now all this has been changed. A few years ago the line of
railway from Quebec to Lake St. John, which may be said to
form the westerly side of the triangle, opened up to sportsmen
the wildest woods and most plentifully stocked waters of the
Canadian Adirondacks, and to tourists the far-famed yet myste-
rious Pikouagami, or Lake St. John, and itsmarvellous surround-
ings. Thousands of pleasure travelers, explorers, and anglers
have taken advantage of the new railroad to visit the great in-
land sea and its mighty tributaries, and, like the visitors to the
Saguenay, almost all of them returned by the way that they
came.

There was a gap in the present triangular tour, extending
from its northerly angle at Lake St. John to Chicoutimi, nearly
half way down the easterly side of the triangle, which has been

filled by the construe-

tion of the new railway i'L.'-'Jk. i'i::f^^i£iJ^'k'^^'v'^..

extension, that renders

the arrangements for

the round trip complete

without the necessity

of alternate portages

and shooting of rapids

for a distance of sixty

or seventy miles. Now

(^^r-*

well within the time heretofore occupied in making the Sague-
;iay trip alone, tourists may visit by rail the far-famed Lake
St. John, crossing the Laurentian Mountains, and passing the
trout streams and lakes of the Canadian Adirondacks by the
way ; may sleep overnight and take dinner and breakfast at the
magnificent Hotel Roberval, Lake St. John, and may continue,
next day, by rail to Chicoutimi, and thence descend the Sague-
nay by steamer, by daylight, and so return to Quebec by way
of the St. Lawrence; or, perhaps, by Intercolonial Railway
from Riviere du Loup.

How this may be accomplished and what else may be done
by sportsmen and tourists in the interesting country traversed
by the new line of the far northerly Quebec and Lake St. John
Railroad it is the province of the following pages to describe.

The Tour commences and ends with

THE CITY OF QUEBEC,

the ancient capital of New France, the one "walled city of the
North,"— "the sentinel city that keeps the gates of the St.
Lawrence."— and amongst all the cities of the New World, as

Professor Rob-
erts correctly
puts it, "The
grandest for
situation, the
most romantic
in associations
and the most
distinctive and
picturesque in
details." Que-
bec," says Joaquin Miller, "is the storehouse of American
history, and the most glorious of cities — beautiful, too, as a
picture." She stands at the very threshold of this strong and
impatient New World, in this age of progressive activity and
enterprise, like a little patch of mediaeval Europe, transplanted,
it is true, upon a distant shuie, but shutting out by her mural
surroundings the influence that the whole of the surrounding
continent has failed to exercise upon her. There is scarcely
a foot here which is not historic ground, which is not consecrated,
by well-established fact or tradition, to the memory of deeds of
heroism, of instances of undying piety and faith, from the scene
of Champlain's landing in the Lower Town to found his infant
colony, to the world-renowned Plains of Abraham on the heights
above, where Wolfe died to gain, and Montcalm shed his blood
in t!ie vain endeavor to save, the half of a continent.

' " The earliest explorers of the far West, European heroes of
martial strife and strategy and their dusky chieftain allies, noble
matrons and self-sacrificing missionaries, whose doings live for-
ever in the burning pages of Parkman, Lever, Charlevoix, and

LOUIS GATE.

Cns^^rain, have left l)ehtn<l them here tnonunietits of their zeal
for the cause of religion and rutherland, or innnortali/.ed the
ground which once they trod, the soil for which they fiercely
contended, the spot where first they planted the sytnhol of their
religion, or the dust which they reddened with their blood."
Anned with a copy of the little guide-book from which the
above extract is taken,* the tourist will find his stay in the
Gibraltar of America far too brief to enable him to take in all
the att'-actions of the city and its environs, its many historic
localities, its churches and convents, its university, with itP
valuable collection of old paintings an«l well-equipped library
and museum, and the many beaatiful drives, and excursions, by
rail and steamboat, to the Palls of Montmorency, Lorette, La
Bonne Sainte-Anne, Levis, New Liverpool, St. Joseph and the
Island of Orleans.

While taking in these and other attractions of the city and
vicinity, the tourist may make his home in one of the most
modern and most elegantly appointed hotels of the Continent.
Quebec's new hostelry, the Chateau Frotitenac, commenced in
1892 and opened *or the season of 1893, is due to the foresight
and spirit of enterprise of the leading officials of the Canadian
. Pacific Railway. It occupies probably the finest hotel site in
the world, on the far-famed Dufferin Terrace, under the shadow
of the famous citadel built by the Duke of Wellington, and yet
from ^is high elevation overlooking the St. Lawrence and sur-
rounding country for miles around, and stands where once stood
the Chateau St. Louis, so famous in early Canadian history.
This castle was erected by Champlain, the pious founder of
Quebec, and later, was successfully defended against an English
invasion by Count Frontenac, the French Goverjior, who, upon
being sunuiioned to surrender, told the messenger of the English
Admiral to say that he would answer his summons by the
mouth of his cannon. And he kept his word.

The Victoria and the Clarendon are also well-known and
much frequented hotels.

"ALL ABOARD" FOR LAKE ST. JOHN.

The through passenger trains for Lake St. John, to which
handsome parlor cars are attached, leave the nea' and pretty new
depot of the Quebec and Lake St. John Railroad, on St. Andrew
street, at 8.40 a.m. daily, during the summer season, thus afford-
ing ample time for passengers arriving the same morning by the
early trains or the Montreal steamer, and desirous of making
close connections, to take a bath and breakfast at their hotel
before leaving for Lake St. John. Only a few hundred feet
from the railway station is the splendid new irpn bridge span-
ning the SL Charles river, 1,100 feet long and which cost
$200,000 to construct. Immediately over the bridge is Hedley-

* Chambers' Guide to Quebec.

■,«'■■>??

villejunction, whence the Quebec Railway Light and Power
Go's line branches off to Montmorency Falls and La Bonne
Sainte-Anne. But our train has only paused for an instant at
the Junction, and is already dashing up the slope of the nearest
chain of the Laurentian Hills that bound the horizon as we
look northward from the city in the direction of the Lake
St. John country. No mountain region on the face of the globe
offers more interesting features to the geologist than that of the
Laurentides. This range forms the back bone of the oldest
mountain chain upon the crust of our globe. Thousands of
years before Noah's ark grounded upon the summit of Mount
Ararat, or the fiat had gone forth which first shed created light
upon a world of chaos, the mountains,of which these Laurentian
hills then formed the framework, lifted aloft their hoary heads,
white with the snows of a thousand years. There are a number
of indications of this condition of affairs which forbid any doubt
on the subject. On the heights of Lorette, nine or ten miles
from the city of Quebec, where the old discarded line of the
Lake: St. John Railway was cu'. through a heavy sand-bank,
there were found pleistocene deposits of saxicava sand, contain-
ing astarte, saxicava-rugosa, and pecten-Greenlandica shells in
great abundance. These are the self-same shells which are
to-day found inhabited by living mollusks, in the cold salt sea
which washes the base of Greenland's icy mountains. In the
glacial period of our planet's history there is no doubt that a
similar cold salt sea to that of Labrador and Greenland covered
a great part of this Laurentian country to a height of many
hundred feet above the present level of our own St. Lawrence.

CHARLESBOURG.

This typical and charmingly situated French-Canadian vil-
lage is the summer residence of many of Quebec's citizens, who
leave the city in the evening by the 5.20 local express, and
return to business in the morning by the train that reaches
Quebec at 8.40 .M. There are two stopping places for trains in
this village, .le at Charlesbourg, three miles from the city, the
other three miles further on , at Charlesbourg West. The village,
whose double-spired church and neatly whitened cottages and
farm-houses are so plainly seen from the heights of Quebec,
standing on. the slope of the receding hills, stretches all around
and across between the two railway stations. The farming
lands here traversed by the railway, and all those stretching
away from the elevated plateau of Charlesbourg and Lorette
back to the city of Quebec and into the intervening valley of
the St. Charles, are amongst the most fertile in the Province.
The best apples in the district are those grown upon the lime-
stone grounds of this gently undulating .country. A short
distance above the church at Charlesbourg are still to be seen
the ruins of the Chateau Bij^ot, the summer rendezvous of the

shameless and profligate Intendant Bigot, the first great Cana-
dian boodler, who, for his peculations at the expense of the then
infant colony, was recalled to France, indicted, tried, and ban-
ished. In one of the secret passages of the old chateau was
enacted the tragedy described in Kirby's entrancing historical
romance, "The Golden Dog," which resulted in the violent
death of Caroline, the unhappy Indian maid, at the instigation,
so it is said, of her jealous rival, another favorite of the In-
tendant, no less a personage than the beautiful Angdique de
Meloises, Madame Hugues de Pdan, who is described as having
imitated at Quebec, so far as she was able, the splendor and the
guilt of La Pompadour, making the Palace of Bigot as corrupt,
if not as brilliant, as that of Versailles.

LORETTE.

If the tourist has the time to spare, he will find it worth his
while to give a day, or at least an afternoon, to visiting Lorette.
He may leave the city by the 1.30 p.m. train, and return at 4.30
or 9.50. The station, which is eight miles from the city, is in
the very middle of the Indian village, the home of the Christian
Hurons, lineal descendants of those ancient warriors who waged
such savage wars with the Iroquois in the time of Frontenac,
two hundred years ago. These Indians gain their livelihood by
hunting and trapping, and by the manufacture of snow-shoes,
moccasins, toboggans, and fancy bead-work. A visit to their
homes is always interesting.. Their chapel, which is over one
hundred and fifty years old, is of the same model and the same
dimensions as that of the Santa Casa, whence the image of the
Virgin — a copy of that in the famous sanctuary — was sent to the
Indians. The magnificent Falls of Lorette are alone well worth
the journey to see. All the surroundings, where the foaming
waters come tumbling down over rocks and stones and through
picturesque gorges, are exceedingly wild. One can see the
cascade by simply stepping aside from the roadway. But to be
able to gaze upon the Falls in all their beauty, the tourist must
descend the steps which lead to a ravine. Two minutes' walk
will bring him to a moss-covered rock, where he may sit for
hours listening to the noisy splash and watching the dashing
waters as they hurry along, foaming and plunging over the
stones. The Lorette Falls differ widely from the cataract of
Montmorency, but they are just as striking in their way. Some
think them even more beautiful. Just above the Indian village
is the Chateau d'Eau, where, from a miniature lake formed by
a dam across the river, two lines of iron pipe, one thirty and the
other eighteen inches in diameter, draw off the water supply
with which they serve the city of Quebec. From the heights of
Lorette, as from those of Charlesbourg, and from the windows
of the cars as the train rolls along the side of the hill, the view
all around is of the most entrancing description. The city, in

.Tv'r

the distance, is bold and striking, rising up proudly out of the
broad St. Lawrence, while the church spires, parliament build-
ings, and Laval University stand out grandly against the
clear sky.

Four miles after leaving Indian Lorette, the train pauses a
moment at Lorette Junction, and glides on to Valcartier, four-
teen miles from Quebec, an agricultural settlement extending
for many miles back from the railway, and which was originally
settled largely by retired British officers, and their descendants.
No less than nineteen Waterloo veterans are buried in the
cemetery here.

At eighteen miles from the city, immediately before stopping
at St. Gabriel station the train crosses

THE JACQUES CARTIER RIVER.

Here is afforded one of the prettiest scenes that can be seen
from a car window anywhere. The river at this point is of con-
siderable width. For several hundreu feet above the bridge
the fleecy water falls over a long-continued series of massive
boulders, and, sixty feet below the railway, the seething fluid
eddies around preparatory to its violent rush between the abut-
ments of the bridge, only to peacefully rest, almost immediately
afterwards, in the calm expanse of lake into which the river
widens below the crossing of the railway. It is a somewhat
dizzy scene, for the bridge is sixty feet above the water, but it is
a substantial iron structure, and was built by the reliable firm
of Clark, Reeves & Co., of Philadelphia. Notwithstanding its
distance from the sea, the Jacques Cartier is a famous salmon
river, whose praises have been sung by such well-known anglers
as Charles Hallock, R. Nettle, Dr. Henry, Chs. Lanman, and
others. Its name perpetuates the memory of the discoverer

of Canada.

St. Catherines' is the next
stopping place after St. Gabriel,
and then, at twenty-four miles
from Quebec, comes

LAKE ST. JOSEPH.

This beautiful sheet of water,
which is only about an hour's
ride from Quebec, has a crooked
circumference of twenty miles,
being eight miles long and from
one to three in width. It is sur-
rounded by mountains clad in
magnificent hard-wood trees,
reaching down to the water's
edge, and embellished with

LAKK 3T. JOSBPH.

verdure embowered nooks and oft-recurring vistas of charming
scenery. In the middle of the lake the water is very deep and
clear, and gently sloping beaches of hard sand render it most
desirable as a bathing ground. A comfortable hotel, the Lake
View House, and several summer cottages, have been constructed
on the shores of the lake, and the pleasure steamer " Arizona "
makes frequent trips upon its waters. With all these advan-
tages, it is not surprising that Lake St. Joseph should be rapidly
becoming one of the most fashionable of Quebec's summer
resorts. Its waters teem with various species of fish, chief
amongst which are speckled trout, lake trout, black bass, and a
white fish of excellent flavor to which the residents give the
name of freshwater shad. Brook trout grow very large in this
lake, being sometimes captured in spring-time up to three
pounds in weight. Bass are taken here most freely in the
months of July and August, and the lake or fork-tailed trout,
called by the French-Canadian touladi, is caught throughout
the entire season, either by trolling near the bottom of the
deepest portions of the lake, or in fishing the same localities
with live minnows. These fork-tailed trout grow to an immense
size, and have been known to exceed thirty pounds in weight.

Some five miles after leaving Lake St. Joseph station the
railway runs for over two miles along the very brink of Lake
Sergent, a placid but very beautiful body of water, the resort of
perch and bass. Bourg Louis is the next station, and, at the
thirty-sixth mile from Quebec, the train pulls up at

ST. RAYMOND.

This is both the largest and the prettiest village between
Quebec and Lake St. John on the main line of the railroad.
The approach to it by railway from Quebec is very beautiful.
It has been compared to a Swiss village in appearance, hemmed
in, as it is all around, by mountains, along the side of one of
which the train rushes down into the station, affording, on the
way, a delightful panoramic view of the surrounding country
from the car windows, looking towards the north. Through the
village flows the interesting River St. Anne, and in the meadows
along its bauks.shaded by majestic elms, a short distance out of
the village, are some of the most popular grounds for private
picnic parties from the city. Various angling excursions may
be made from St. Raymond to surrounding waters, and, at some
few miles distance is the club-house of the Tourilli Fish and
Game Club, situated on the opposite branch of the St. Anne
nver from the Little Saguenay. The club originally consisted
of Quebecers only, but recently a number of American anglers
have secured membership in it. Some of the trout taken by
members of this club are exceedingly heavy.

Allen's Mill and Perthuis are the next stations, and at neither
of these localities, nor yet at many another along the road at

which the train stops, was there the slightest sign of settlement
before the construction of the railway through these then forest
solitudes. The same remark is applicable to

RIVIERE A PIERRE,

fifty-eight miles from Quebec, where excellent agricultural
ground abounds, and where quite a number of settlers have
already taken up land. Near the station is the junction of the
Lower Lauren tian Railway with the Quebec and Lake St. John.
The Lower Laurentian runs through a country famous for the
fishing to be had in its waters, and for the hunting in its woods.
Caribou and partridges are reported plentiful here in winter.
The road runs in a westerly direction from Riviere k Pierre
Junction, while the Quebec and Lake St. John continues on
towards the north. The Lower Laurentian traverses not only a
splendid sporting country, but several fine agricultural parishes
and rich timber lands, and is destined, it is hoped, in the not
far distant future, to form a link in an important line of railway
connecting Quebec with Parry Sound on Georgian Bay, which
would become the natural and by far th shortest existing outlet
for the wheat of the great West that is now conveyed as far as
Duluth by the western roads of the United States, and thence
finds its way to Eastern seaports by a comparatively long and
expensive route.

GRAND'MERE.

Forty-five miles from Riviere k Piere on the Lower Lauren-
tian division of the railway, is Grand' Mere, on the bank of the
St. Maurice river. Here, since the construction of the railway
a few years ago, there has grown up the nucleus of a large and
flourishing town. The Laurentide Pulp Company has erected
here large pulp aud paper mills, probably the largest in Canada,
and amongst the largest in America. A capital of two millions
of dollars has been invested here by the Cc -npany, which num-
bers amongst its members some of the most distinguished names,
in railway, finance and political life, of Canada and the United
States. The water power derived from the Grand' Mere falls

is something

* ' ' ■ enormous, and
the scenery

r^ 'i here is of the

most pictur-
esque descrip-
tion. The
approach to
Grand'Mere
by the railway
is exceedingly
beautiful.. The
railway bridge

aSiANDMBRB.

crosses the river below the falls, which are seen a hundred feet
beneath from many different points, the railway, on both sides of
the river, taking the form of a horseshoe in approaching Grand'-
M^re. At Grand' Mere there is an admirable hotel known as the
Laui entides Inn. From this point are reached the waters of the
several American fishing clubs in the St, Maurice territory.
Six miles west of Grand' M^re the railway passes within a mile of
Shawenegan Falls, one of the most beautiful cat? -acts on the
Continent. Here the water power has been disposed of by the
Government to a company which has undertaken to expend foui
millions of dollars to develop it, within the next two years.

FISHING CLUBS.

Shortly after passing Rivere k
ing northward along the
St. John R.R., the tourist
of the great fish and
delightfully wild
woods fringe the
way track, and
both white
hunters
cari-

Pierre Junction, and proceed-
line of the Quebec and Lake
finds himself in the midst
game preserves of this
country, Thick
sides of the rail-
here in winter
and Indian
track the
bou.

The

of this
is a perfect
rivers and
which literally
Numerous clubs
to lease the fishing
tions of these waters,
erected handsome
respective head-
them control hun-

TRITON FISH AND GAME
CLUB HOUSE.

whole

territory

network of

lakes, all of

swarm with fish.

have been formed

rights in certain por-

almost all of which have

club-houses at their

quarters. Some of

dreds of miles of

territory, including often no less than scores of lakes, nearly all
connected, or at the best only separated by country that is easily
portaged. Three of the largest and most important Quebec
clubs owning fishing presrves in this district are the Laurentides,
whose club-house is seventy miles from Quebec, and not far
from the railway ; the Stadacona, ninety-four miles from the
city, with headquarters in sight of the car windows ; and the
Triton Club at the io8th mile.

Before reaching these club lakes, however, the railway com-
mences to skirt along the bank of ., ne of the largest and most
beautiful of the many magnificent trout streams of this section
of the country. This is

»3

THE BATISCAN RIVER.

Its course is followed by the railway for between twenty and
thirty miles. It is generally here from one hundred to four
hundred feet in width, running frequently through such narrow
mountain passes as barely to leave room for the railway track
on one of its shores. It is a succession for the most part of
wild, leaping cascades, and dr .hing, foaming rapids, with occa-
sional stretches of deep, dark water that contrast strangely with
the rough and rocky descents that form the chief characteristics
of the river's course through this wild, mountainous country.
The beauty of the scenery all along this Batiscan valley must be
seen to be appreciated, and none who have observed it can ever
forget its wild grandeur. The peculiarly bold abruptness of the
mountains in this part of the country will also attract the atten-
tion of the observant tourist. All the lakes that are drained
into the Batiscan contain immv;nse quantities of speckled trout.
The author of a paper in Outing entitled, "Along the upper
Batiscan," Mr. George R. Mosle, writes: "The sport here
during a stay of fifteen days exceeded anything I have known,
whether in the famous Moosehead region of Maine, or among
the thousand lakes in the peninsula of Northern Michigan and
Wisconsin. After the first day we decided to throw back all
trout weighing les . than one pound, and even then found we
had a good many to spare at the close of a day's fishing. The
largest trout captured by our party was a beauty of five and a
quarter pounds .... The next largest weighed four and a half
pounds. Besides these two largest we got a number over two
and three pounds, one catch of ten trout weighing eighteen
pounds, and one of seven weighing sixteen and a half pounds."

At a distance of 1 13 miles from Quebec is

LAKE EDWARD,

the largest body of water between the St. Lawrence and Lake
St. John. It original and more appropriate name is Lac des
Grandes lies, for in its length of twenty miles are numerous
islands, large and small, all beautifully wooded, and often rising
to a considerable height out of the water. The shores of the
lake are also luxuriantly wooded to the very edge of the water.

A more pictur-
esque lake it
would be im-
possible to
find anywhere.
Its waters are
so delightfully
pure, cold, and
clear, that not
only is it a

LAKE EDWARD.

o
w

treat to drmk them in the warmest weather, but upon clear
days, the reflection of its richly timbered shores and islands
is mirrored in the surface as in a glass, and the angler may
quite often distinguish distinctly the bottom of the lake at a
depth of ten to twenty feet. In these deep pools, some of
which are continually cooled by the upward bubbling of fresh-
water springs, there love to linger in refreshing indolence
those monster trout, — handsome red-bellied specimens of the
trae salmo fontinalis, — weighing often from four to six pounds
each, which have made this lake so famous. Marvellous stories
have been written of how voraciously these speckled beauties
take the fly in the summer season, and that they are plentifully
captured with bait there is not the slightest matter of doubt.
The best fly fishing in the summer season about this lake has
been found by the present writer in the Riviere aux Rats, one
of the lake's feeders that enters it from the West. Here, how-
ever, the trout are not nearly so large as in the body of the
lake. In August and September two to four pound trout rise
readily to the fly in the River Jeanotte, the outlet of Lake
Edward, permission to fish which must be obtained from the
Orleans Fishing Club of Quebec, the lessees of the rights. In
the lake itself, on the contrary, the fishing is free to all patrons
of the railway, — having been i >ased for their benefit from the
Provincial Government. There is an excellent hotel at the
ra''way station, which is on the very edge of the lake, kept by
Mr. Robt. Rowley, where boats, camp outfits, and guides can
always be obtained.

There are also facilities for camping out on the shores of the
lake, as Adirondack Murray, Kit Clarke, and C. H. Farnham,
of Harper's Magaeme, have already done for weeks at a time.
These brilliant writers have all sung the praises of Lac des
Grandes lies, to a recital of whose attractions Mr. Clarke has
devoted no inconsiderable space in his cha.ming little booklet,
entitled ' ' Where the Trout hide. ' ' He says :—

"Beneath the umbrageous protection of majestic forests,
hidden deep in the sheltered recess of a trackless wilderness,
bordered completely by pompous wood-crowned mountains,
reposes in peaceful seclusion Lac des Grandes lies. Imperial
domes of mutable green rear their reverential crests above its
incurvated shores and no sound breaks the stately silence of the
tremendous solitude save the chirrup of the wild birds, or the
measureless sigh of the winds among the unblazened trees.
Its soft, rippling waters bathe the golden sand-shores in undu-
lating swells, while, anon, huge boulders raise their titanic
dimensions in capricious and grotesque outlines. Every vision
is a spectacle of surpassing beauty. Bent, curved, and oddly
distorted, its twenty miles of longitude encompass a hundred
miles of shore, while many of its crooked bays, penetrating
deep between the lofty hills, are as yet absolutely an undiscov-
ered bourne into which no chivalrous civilized creature has

ever ventured. Rich cxlors of balsam, spruce and cedar en-
cumber the cloudless atmosphere with a delicious fragrance, and
every breath of the balmy air is invigorating and strengthening
beyond description.

"Gemmed with numberless irregular, and quaint islands,
some of miles in length and others but the fragment of an acre
in extent, the oarsman becomes entangled amid their intricate
and puzzling watery ways, and unless guided by subtle discre-
tion, he is lost in a labyrinth of wondrous beauty.

"The trout of Lake Edward are exceedingly brilliant in
color, much more variegated than the ordinary fish of the
species, and in size have been taken approximating five pounds
in weight, while still larger specimens have been seen time and
again. The numbers of trout wrested from these wa rs almost
surpass belief, yet they are not absolutely crazy, and will not
frantically seize the decoy at any and every opportunity. Among
all fish the trout is most conceited, contumacious, and pig-
headed. When he won ' t, he
won't, and there's an end.
on't. Great big fellows can
be seen in the clear water,
moving about carelessly and
lazily, tantalizing the angler
as he sits in his boat, vainly
offering every inducen:?nt to
tempt the fish into a breach
of reserve."

Kit Clarke's camp is now
the rendezvous of the Para-
dise Fin and Feather Club,
whose president is Judge
Henry A. Gildersleeve, of New York, and which counts upon
the list of members the names of ex-president Cleveland, ex-
mayor Grant, of New York City, C. B. Jefferson, H. C. Miner,
John C. Davis, Dr. E. R. Lewis, Dr. Wm. F. Duncan, and
several other anglers of note.

THE HEIGHT OF LAND.

A hundred and twenty-six miles from Quebec, or thirteen
beyond Lake Edward; the height of land is reached, and the
streams along the side of the railway are henceforth seen to flow
northwards in the direction of Lake St. John, inst id of south-
wards towf-ds the St. Lawrence, as did those on the other side
of the watershed. This summit is 1,500 feet above the level of
the St. Lawrence, and 1,200 above that of Lake St. John. There
is a perceptible increase, too, in the rate of speed attained
by the train, as compared with the time that was made on the
heavy up grades. Within the last few years both these grades
and the principal curves upon the line have been considerably

improved, at a cost of something like a million of dollars.
Notwithstanding the present excellence of the road-bed, there
is excitement enough, in all conscience in the journey through
the wild mountain region here traversed by the railway. In
places the road has been cut through .solid rocks of gneiss,
granite or lornblende, and splendid granite quarries are now
being worked in the vicinity of both Miguick and Riviere i
Pierre stations. There are some localities w'icie it has been
found nete.s.s{iry to build up lofl> clll^^l'1^lnents for the road-
bed, and in others the railway hugs the si<le of p mountain as it
runs nearly half way around it, while on the ofi side of the
track i;. a precipitous gorge, hundreds of feet deep, down which
the tourist may gaze far over the tops of the highest trees.
Notwithstanding these obstacles of nature, the railway has been
constructed in the most solid manner ; its wide, well -ballasted
embankments, heavy steel rails, .smooth track, and excellent
equipment of new rolling stock, from the best car-building
establishments in America, making it one of the safest and most
comfortable lines that it is possble to travel upon.

The preserves of a number of American fishing clubs are
situated near the line of the railway, between Lake Edward and
Lake St. John.

LAKE KISKISINK.

Cedar Lake, or more correctly Kiskisink, is the first stopping
place for the train after leaving Lake Edward. It i.s 135 miles
from Quebec. Here are the holiday headquarters of the Meta-
betchouan Fish and Game Club, which counts in its mem-
bership quite a number of New England millionaires. These
gentlemen have a handsome club-house alongside the railway
station at Kiskisink, on the margin of the lake of that name —
a beautiful sheet of water nine miles long — and also fish the
famous Bostonnais river, the outlet of Kiskisink, where large
speckled beauties constantly rise to the anglers' flies from early
spring- to the very close of the season at the end of September.
In addition to these waters the Club controls the fishing in the
central portion of the Metabetchouan. Its president is U. S.
Senator O. H. Piatt, of Meriden, Conn.

Twenty-eight miles of the upper portion of the Metabet-'
chouan are leased by the Philadelphia Fishing and Game Club,
of which Amos R. Little, director of the Pennsylvania Railroad,
is president, while the lower part of the same river for some
fifteen or twenty miles, and excepting some ten miles from its
mouth, is fished exclusively by the Amabelish Fish and Game
Club, of Springfield, Mass. E. S. Brewer is president of this
Club, and D. N. Coats, vice-president, and some of the finest
trout ever taken out of Canadian waters have come from the
lakes and streams which it controls. The club-house is some
distance back from the railway, and is usually reached by
driving from Chambord Junction.

OUIATCHOUAN FALLS.

LAC GROS VISONS AND LAKE BOUC HETTE

are l)oth seen from the train, ntul l)oth are well worth seeinff,
especially Lake Horchette, which is an exceedingly beautiful
Ixxly of water, lyitiK away in a partially cleared valley a little
to the west of the railroad. The station at the lake is 160 n:ile»
from Quebec, and here the members of the Nonantum Club
of New Haven fishennen disembark from the train to reach
their preserves, which include the famous I^ac des vommissaires
and all tributary waters. An immense catch of speckle<l trout
was taken here by members of the Club in September, 1892,
several of their fish weighing from two to four pounds each.

The fishing of the river Ouiatchouan, which flows out of
Lftke Bouchette towards Lake St. John, is leased to a club of
gentlemen belonging to Roberval and Quebec. The late Dr.
Lundy, of Philadelphia, and Mr. Eugene McCarthy, of Syracuse,
who obtained permission to fish this stream in August, 1892, took
out of it an enormous number of very heavy trout.

From this point onwards to Lake St. John the signs of settle-
ment grow more frequent, and the tourist may at short intervals
notice the humble beginning of new settlers, attracted here by
the railway, who are gradually building themselves homes and
clearing faitus in what was a few years ago nothing but prime-
val forest,

DABLON

is reached four miles past T^ake Bouchette, and is quite a new
parish, possessing but little interest for the tourist excepting
such as attaches to its name, which it has received for the
purpose of perpetuating amongst the people of this country the
memory of the Jesuit Father, Claude Dablon, who, in company
with Father Druillettcs, went, in 1661, as far as Lake Nikouban,
at the head of the Ashuapmouchouan river, where a great trading
fair was held annually by the Indians. The Relations desjesuites
speak of the journey as "the first voyage made toward the
Northern Sea."

DE QUEN.

This is the name of the station immediately north of Dablon,
at a distance of six miles. It has been named after the discov-
erer of Lake St. John, Father Jean de Quen, who, with Father
Lalemant (subsequently martyred by the Indians), established
the old Jesuit College at Quebec. It was in 1647 that De Queri
discovered Lake St. John. The Indian converts that he had
made at Tadoussac had carried the tidings of Christianity to Lake
St. John in advance of the missionary's visit, but learning that
some of them were ill and very much desired to see him, he
braved the diflBculties of the journey by way of the Saguenaj'

river and the suhsequent ninuntnln portajjes, to av<)5<l the rnpidd
of the (iratid Discharj^c. aiul was t first white man to si't t;H)t
u[)on the shores of tlie inhuul sea. How iiiarvellously exact is
his description of I'ikoujtj4auii, as the Inthans called the great
lake, may be judged from the following extract ; 'This lake is
80 large that it is dIfFicult to see the opposite shores. It appears
to be of a round shape; it is deep, and swarming with fish.
Pike, perch, stilmon, trout, dor^. whitefish, carp, and several
other kinds, are caught in it. It is surrounded by a flat country
terminated by high mountains at a distance of three, four or
five leagues from its shores. It is fed by the waters of about
fifteen rivers, which serve as highways to the different little
nations that live in the lands whence they flow, by means of
which they come to fi.sh in the lake, and to interchange articles
of commerce and friendship with each other."

CHAMBORD JUNCTION,

situated in the midst of a settlement overlooking I,ake St. John,
and named after the royal house of Old France, is 177 miles from
Quebec, and the next station to De Quen. Here the railway
divides into two branches, one running to the east along the
southerly shore of the lake, and thence to the head of navigation
upon the Saguenay at Chicoutimi. The length of this division
is fifty-one miles. That which runs to the west follows the
shore of the lake until about half way up its westerly side, at
the Roberval Hotel, which is fourteen miles from Chambord,
and the headquarters of all tourists and anglers desirous of fish-
ing the lake, any of its tributaries, or the Grand Discharge, or of
remaining for some time in this charnnng country. Even
tourists who are simply taking the round trip should dine and
sleep upon the night of their arrival at the Hotel Roberval, as
by branching off to the east from Chambord Junction they will
not only be deprived of the finest views of Lake St. John and
the surrounding country, but will also miss seeing

THE OUIATCHOUAN FALLS,

one of the most picturesque bits of scenery in these northern
wilds, where the waters of the Ouiatchouan, the outlet of Lake
Bouchette, leap over a rocky precipice to near the level of the
lake, not far from its south-west angle. The Falls are 236 feet
in height, and rival in altitude those of Montmorency, while they
far surpass them in the distribution of their waters, as they are
lashed into foam by the projecting rocks. "Ouiatchouan," in
the Montagnais dialect means "Do you see the fall? there?"
The beautiful Ouiatchouan Falls may be seen for many miles
around, and from every part of the lake, and have given t the
river its name. A fine view of their upper portion may be had
from the car window as the train rushes along between them and

the lake. Just above the railway bridge that spans the mouth
of the river, its waters spread out into a majestic pool, in which
the spring-time fishing for ouananiche or fresh water salmon is
at its very best from about the 2oth of May to the 15th or 20th
of June. There is a railway station at Ouiatchouan, and it is a
pleasant drive of six miles to it from Hotel Roberval. Ihere is
a good footpath in from the roadway to the very foot of the falls,
and heavy trotit are sometimes taken there. The footpath route
affords the tourist some splendid views of the narrow gorge
through which the boiling waters of the Ouiatchouan rush
toward the lake, making a variety of scenes, quite as exciting
as those witnessed at the far-famed Natural Steps above the
Falls of Montmorency. A few minutes' ride on the cars from
Ouiatchouan brings the tourist to the end of the first stage of
his journey, — the modern and elegantly equipped

HOTEL ROBERVAL,

immediately before reaching which the train crosses the wildly
playful, Ouiatchouaniche, or Little Ouiatchouan, which rushes
into the lake over a rocky and rough descent, where its water'
are lashed into spray as they sportively leap in cascade or dash
onward in a succession of picturesque rapids.

Roberval is a name famous in Canadian history, being that
of a French governor sent out to New France more than three
and a half centuries ago, whose mission, however, ended in
disaster, while he himself is said by some authorities to have
been finally massacred in Paris, while others assert that he
never returned from his last voyage up the Saguenay. The
Hotel Roberval is a handsome building overlooking the lake,
and close to both the steamboat landing and the hotel station
of the railway. It has accomodation for three hundred guests,
and is one of the most commodious as well as one of the most
conifortable houses in Canada. It is supplied with bi^'iard
room, bowling alley, and a promenade, ball, and concert hall,
and its dining hall measures seventy by thirty-five feet. The
furnishings are all quite new and exceedingly handsome, and
the house is supplied with hot and cold water and with electric
light and bells throughout, even the grounds surrounding it
being illuminated by electricity at night. The outdoor attrac-

^^^^^^K'

— ''"-' — — _^

^BHHl^MililitlllHl

- ■"

"™**15:^^'|

■

tions are lawn tennis, cro{iuet, fishing, bathing, bonting and
driving. The view of

LAKE ST. JOHN

from the windows of the hotel is (luite sea-like, and, even in the
clearest weather, the vision can scarcely reach to the opposite
shore at the Grand Discharge, a distance of some twenty-five
miles. The inland sea is almo.st circnlar in shape, being some
eighty-five miles in circumference. It is fed by a number of
very large rivers which Mr. Murray declares are well worthy of
a volume to themselves, and mo.st of which bear nnisical Indian
names, while all of them swarm with fish. There is, first of all,
the Peribonca, or "Curious River," over four hundred miles
long; the Mistassini, or "River of the I?ig Rock," over three
hundred miles in length, atid nearly two miles wide at its
mouth; the Ashuapmouchouan, or "River where they Hunt
the Moose," from two hundred and fifty to three hundred
miles long, all flowing in from the north and north-west ; the
Ouiatchouan and Ouiatchouaniche, which have been already
described, and the Metabetchouan, flowing from the south.

STEAMERS

leave the hotel as required, to carry tourists into the mouths of
these rivers, and those who desire to ascend them in birch-bark
canoes may find guides, canoes, camping outfits, supplies,
fishing tackle, etc., at the Hotel Roberval before starting.

In the months of May and June excellent ouananiche fishing
may be had in the lake, immediately in front of the hotel.
From about the end of June this fishing is good in the Grand
Discharge, whither the steamer "Mistassini" crosses daily
from Hotel Roberval to the Island House, a hostelry built on
an island of the Discharge in the midst of the most magnificent
scenery, specially for the accomodation of anglers and tourists.
It is also well .supplied with guides and canoes, is under the
same management as the Hotel Roberval, and has accomoda-
tion for nearly a hundred gue.sts. The "Mistassini" is a per-
fectly new, steel-framed boat, .staunch and fleet, and capable of
accommodating four hundred passengers. It is admirably fur-

. __,____„ . . n i s h e d and

' "' ■ , I equipped with

ever) thing ne-
cessary for the
comfort of pas-
scngers, and
especially of
that of the
ladies. Her
captain claims

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that he would be quite ready to cross the Atlantic in her. The
steamers "Peribonca" and "Undine" are available for excur^
sions to other parts of the lake.

OUANANICHE FISHING.

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Experierced anglers declare that no other fresh-water fish,
excepting perhaps the salmon, affords so much sport to the fly
fisherman as the ouananiche. Anglers and others desirous of
learning more about this famous fish, which has the habit of .
making such extraordinary leaps when impaled on a fly-hook,
that it fights nearly as much in the air as in the water, should
address a postal card to the Tourist Department of the Quebec
and Lake St. John Railway, asking for a copy of the illustrated
guide to the ' ' Haunts of the Ouananiche, ' ' or should order from
Harper & Bros, a copy of "The Ouananiche and its Canadian
Environment," by E. T. D. Chambers. Meanwhile it maybe
said that this wonderful fish, which is very abundant in Lake St.

John and its
tributary wa-
ters, is really
a fresh-water
salmon, and
that by some
epicures its
flesh is con-
sidered supe-
rior to that
of the true
salmo salar. Its name is Indian, and was for a long time
translated "little salmon," but the Montagnais name of the
sea salmon is ouchachoumac. Anglers from all parts of the
United States, even from as far south as Texas, visit Lake
St. John and its tributaries and the Grand Discharge to enjoy
the sport of fighting and killing the ouananiche, and, in 1892,
Captain and the Lady Cecilia Rose, Colonel Andrew Haggard
a brother of the famous novelist, Monsieur and Madame Petit
of Paris, and other distinguished Europeans, crossed the Atlan-
tic for the express purpose of whipping the celebrated waters.

To the north of the lake, twenty miles up the Mistassini, is
a newly established

TRAPPIST MONASTERY,

founded in 1892, and occupied by some of "the silent monks of
Oka," of which curious order a most interesting description
appeared in the Cosmopolitan for December, 1892. The monks
of this order were expelled from France in 1 880. They lead the
most au.stere lives, eat and drink nothing but bread, vegetables,
and water, rise at two o'clock every morning, lash their bodies

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with a whip every Friday, devote their whole time to farm labor
and their devotional exfercises, and never speak to each other
except to utter the salutatory warning, ** Memento mori"
" Remember death. " All business is transacted and all orders
given by a foreman or director of work.

By an an-angement with the Provincial Government the
monks are devoting themselves to the colonization of the vast
country in the middle of which their monastery is situated. So
successful have they been that settlers have flocked in in great
numbers to take up lands, and where a year or two ago was the
forest primeval there is now a flourishing settlement, with over
400 inhabitants. The comfortable steamer " Colon " runs twice
a week between Roberval and the monastery for the convenience
of settlers and tourists, a most enjoyable trip up a beautiful
river almost as broad as the St. Lawrence.

At Pointe-Bleue, only three miles distant from the Hotel
Roberval, on the lake shore, are the reserve and village of

THE MONTAGNAIS INDIANS,

who, in winter, hunt and trap the woods lying between Lake
St. John and Hudson's Bay. These Indians are well worth a
visit. They are amongst the most interesting of the north
American aborigines, and are exceedingly dark of skin. The
furs that they collect in winter, and that form their principal
means of subsistence, are exchanged by them with the factors
of the Hudson's Bay Company for the ordinary necessaries of
life. Very often, if game is scarce in the winter season, they
suffer the pangs' of hunger, and members of the tribe have been
known to die in the woods of starvation. The squaws display
great admiration for gay colors, and wrap their shoulders in the
brightest of bright cotton handkerchiefs, which are also used
as head-dresses for the girls. The costume of a Montagnais
matron is incomplete without the tribal tuque, similar in shape
to the ordinary tuques of Canadian snow-shoers, but with the
point caught down in front to the band, and the whole formed
of alternate pointed stripes of red and black, each stripe piped
in blue. It is exceedingly interesting, when they are home
from the woods in the summer season, to l^ear them sing in
their church, in their own peculiar language, in adoration of
the Virgin. Some few of them, however, are Protestants,
having been baptised at the English mission at Moose Factory,
Hudson's Bay. These have a little church of their own.

Mr. W. H. H. (Adirondack) Murray, in speaking of the
Montagnais Indians of Lake St. John, says : —

"They are the 'Mountaineers' of ancient times and wars,
and dwelt among the Laurentian Hills. They were a brave
stock, and they and the Esquimaux of Labrador were never at
peace. The Moimds of Mamelons at the mouth of the Saguenay
could tell of wars fought on them for a thousand years, could

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their sands but speak. The Monta/^tiais at Roben-al are great
hunters, skilled trappers, great canoeinen and runners. They
are a racial curiosity, and worthy of study on the part of the
intelligent tourist, and the sight of them and their peculiarities
will be entertaining to all."

In the, summer season they are ready to act as guides for
tourists and anglers, and excellent guides they are, too. They
may often, when not otherwise engaged, be found busy building
birch-bark canoes, and every step of their process illustrates the
marvelous exactness of Longfellow's noted description in
"Hiawatha." Wonderful indeed are the architecture and
mechanism of these *^ cheemauns" ; so light and swift, with
their pointed bows, and walls of birch-bark, sewn together with
the fibrous roots of the larch or tamarack ; so stout and strong
with their framework and ribs of cedar boughs ; so close and
dry, with their seams securely closed with "the balm .... the
tears of balsam, and the resin of the fir tree."

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"Thus the birch canoe was builded
In the valley by the river,
In the bosom of the forest ;
And the forest's life was in it,
■ All its mystery and its magic,
All the lightness of the birch tree,
All the toughness of the cedar,
All the larch's supple sinews.*
And it floated on the river
Like a yellow leaf in autumn,
Like a yellow water lily."

The family of the Montagnais was formerly divided into
various tribes, such as the Tadoussaciens, who hunted the lower
part of the Saguenay country ; the Chekoutimiens, farther to
the west, who took their name from Chicoutimi, as the Tadous-
saciens did tl cirs from Tadoussac ; the Piegouagamiens, who
hunted the shores of Pikouagami, or Flat Lake, as they called
Lake St. John ; the Mistassins, whose hunting-grounds lay to
the north, between Lake St. John and Mistassini ; the Chemou-
chouanistes, who trapped and hunted the valley of the Ashuap-
mouchouan, and the Nekoubanistes, a tribe hailing from the
extreme north-west of the Lake St. John country round about
Lake Nekouban, one of the sources of the great river that
may be considered as the commencement of the Saguenay,
and that is quite as far from Lake St. John as the latter is from
Quebec.

Hunting the moose, the caribou, the bear, and other large
game, is attended with great success in the woods surrounding
Lake St. John, while partridges, ducks, and geese are abundant
in their season. The number of the geese supplied by the
Indians at Fort Albany, James Bay, to the Hudson's Bay Com-
pany is 36,000 annually, so that some idea may be formed of the
number that fiy southwards over Lake St. John every autumn.

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JAMES BAY.

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During 1897 the Provincial Government sent an explf)ring
party from Lake St. John to James Bay, through the centre of the
large territory recently acquired by the Province in that district,
covering an area of seventy million acres of land. The result
of this exploration proves that this immense country is nmch
more valuable than has hitherto been supposed, the land being
very level, well timbered, having a good soil and a climate
quite as temperate as that of the Lake St. Jonn district, and a
snowfall about half that of Montreal, It is also reported to be
rich in minerals. The exploration also proved the existence of
an excellent route for a railway from Roberval to the mouth of
the Nottaway River, on James Bay, where there is a harbor
having 27 feet of water, with about four thousand miles of coast
line tributary to any railway which may be built there. This
route will pass over a summit 300 feet lower than that crossed
between Quebec and Lake St. John, and will admit of the con-
struction of a railway with very easy gradients. A charter for
the construction of this road is held by the Great Northern
Company, and, should it be carried out, must greatly enhance
the valueof the Lake St. John property. Mr. Henry O'Sullivan,
Dominion Land Surveyor and Civil Engineer, who headed the
expedition above referred to, reports immense areas of magnifi-
cent spruce forest to the north of the height of land between
Lake St. John and James Bay. Of other sectionsof the country
traversed by him he says: "In the virgin forest, spruce, fir,
tamarac and cypress, or Banksian pine, are the chief conifers,
while the deciduous trees are limited to poplar of different varie-
ties, white birch, willow, alder, hazel, pembina, and similar
undergrowth, with occasionally black ash along the river and
lake shores. I saw no white pine, and although the cypress, or
Banksian pine, is decidedly a native of that region, it is only in
the dry burnt districts, and on the poorer heights in the neigh-
borhood of Lake Nemiskau, on the Rupert river, that it was
seen in abundance. In fact, pine of any kind seldom flourishes
on such rich clay soil as is found in the basin of the Nottaway.
There is an abundance of spruce and tamarac wherever the
country has not been burnt. Here and there, areas more or less
extensive, were swept by fire from twenty-five to fifty years ago,
and are now well grown up with poplar, white birch, spruce,
tamarac and cypress of fair size, according to age, insuring an
abundance of pulp wood for ages to come. Pulp is the industry
of the coming age, black spruce is the king of woods for pulp-
making, and this country is the home of the black spruce."
The immense waterfalls in every part of this country furnish
power for saw, pulp and paper mills.

There has been, as yet, no attempt to develop the mineral
wealth of this country, but, no doubt, it is very large, for Mr.
O'Sullivan says: "Nearly all the metals are found in the Huron-

ian formation honlcnnjj; on lliu T<anrontian, and allliouj^h I did
not find anytliing of snfficicntly remarkahle importance to attract
pM!)lic attention in this hour of Klondyke fever, I have no douht
that a more thorouj^h examination of the country I j;;issed
through between the height of hmd and James Hay, will resi\lt
in the discovery of minerals of economic value. In some places
magnetic iron is sufficiently abundant to turn the compass needle
nearly end for end."

The climate of James Bay is very much milder than that of
much of the country to the south of the height of land sepa-
rating its waters from the rivers flowing into I.ake St. John.
Mr. O'SuUivan bathed in the bay on the 3rd of October, and
enjoyed a refreshing bath in the SJilt water, which, he says,
was no colder than he had often felt it at Tadoussac, Rimouski
and Sainte Anne des Monts in midsummer. At Moose Factory,
Bishop Newnham is .successful in growing splendid celery, toma-
toes, vegetable marrows up to 15 to 40 lbs. each, salsify, koll
rabi, carrots, parsnips, turnips, beets, peas, beans, all kinds of
cabbage, cauliflower, rhubarb, red and black currants, lettuces,
radishes, herbs, etc.

The wealth of animal life in the waters of James Bay is enor-
mous. According to the United States Commissioners of Fish-
eries for 1875-76, American whalers made at least fifty trips to
Hudson'sBay,bringinghomecargoes worth |i, 371, 000, or of an
average value of $27,420 per trip per vessel, during the eleven
years prior to 1874. As many as two hundred white whales
have been killed at one tide at Port Nelson, which, if valued at
only |ioo eacl , give |2o,ooo — a nice figure for one day's catch.
Salmon are so abundant in the bay and in the rivers flowing into
it, that an Ontario explorei expresses the belief, which certainly
appears at first sight extravagant, that the salmon fisheries of
James and Hudson bays are destined to become as important as
those of British Columbia.

The time will undoubtedly come when James Bay will become
a great summer resort. Dr. Bell, of the Geological Survey of
Canada, has pointed out what magnificent pleasure trips may be
made upon the surface of this great inland sea, in full view of
the bold scenery afforded by its interesting shore lines. Only
the construction of a railway is required to enable tourists to
flock there by thousands. Some enterprising sportsmen have
already made the journey overland from Lake St. John. Dr.
Bell, of Philadelphia, did so in 1897, reaching the bay by way of
the Ashuapmouchouan and Nottaway rivers, and returning by
the Moose river to a point upon the Canadian Pacific Railway.
Mr. Archibald Stuart had previously made the trip to Lake
Mistassini and return by way of the Ashuapmouchouan. Both
gentlemen found enormous quantities of ouananiche and trout
upon the first part of their trip, and then' came large lake
trout, pike, perch, pickerel and sturgeon. Mr. O'Sullivan refers
to the countless numbers of wild fowl, geese, duck, snipe,

plover, etc., seen on the way, ami hears Te hy no means the
least inlerestiiiK of the larj^er game that the tourist and th«
siM)rtsman may expect to encounter uiH)n the trail from Lake
St. John to James Hay.

ROBERVAL TO CHICOUTIMI.

The railway trip from Hotel Roherval to Chicoutinii, the
headcjuarters of navigation on the Saguenay, is the most novel,
one of the most inlerestinj^, and the most recently opened up
link in the entire round trip. The scenery that it ofTers is of the
most varied and heautiful description. The distance hetween
the two points is sixty-four miles, which is run in ahout two
hours, thanks to the admirable condition of the road-bed, and
the directness and almost entire absence of curves from that
part of tlie line between St. GJdcon, where Lake St. John is left
behind, and Chicoutinii. Between the Hotel Roberval and
St. GMeon, a distance of some twenty-nine miles, the railway
skirts the shores of Lake St. John, running around fully one-
third of its circumference, and affording very magnificent and
ever-changing views of the great inland sea. The first fourteen
miles of the journey is a return to Chambord Junction, over a
section of the railway already described. The new division of
the road is equal in every respect to the main line from Quebec
to Chambord, and in some respects is superior to it from the
very nature of the country through which it runs. Its embank-
ments are exceedingly wide, its bridges are iron and of the very
best, and it is laid throughout with steel rails.

Five miles after leaving Chambord and branching off on the
new division of the road, the railway crosses the mouth of

THE METABETCHOUAN RIVER,

upon a handsome iron bridge, five hundred feet long, that cost
the Company |io<.d,ooo. Upon the east bank of the river is still
to be seen the old fort of the Hudson's Bay Company. There
are splendid falls a few miles up the river, and at the foot of
these, and in the mouth of the stream, excellent ouananiche
fishing is to be had in the spring and autunm seasons.

Six miles af^er crossing the Metabetchouan bridge, and nine
from Chambord Junction, the train stops at

ST. JEROME,

the centre of an excellent agricultural country, through which
the railway runs for many miles, calling at various stations,
from which are shipped the produce of some thirty butter and
cheese factories, This part of the country consists principally
of rolling land that reminds the visitor of the most highly
favored portions of the Eastern Townships. Frightful forest
fires have swept over much of this country. Here and there
along the line of the railway may still be seen traces of the

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nwful cotifl.iKration of 1870, of which Adirondack Murray says:
" The record of forest (ires, east and west, inij^ht be searched in
vain to find a parallel. It was no ordinary fire, but a cyclone
of flames, that swept the earth as with the besom of destruction.
Before its awful rush the solid forest was swept away as if its
mighty trees were driest stubble .... In seven hours that awful
line of fire had j^one 120 miles; then it suddenly stopped, like a
tiger glutted with prey .... Men, women, and children fled to
the lake and plunged in. Not all escaped. Some were caught
in the woods; their bones, even, were never found. Some
foolishly hid in their cellars; they were roasted alive. A great
wooden cross, l)y the roadside on the lake shore, tells the
passer-by to-day where a group thus met their dreadful death.
Some thought the end of the world had come, so dense the
smoke and liigh the fire, which flamed to the very sky, and said
their prayers as at the threshold of judgment day. The heat
was indescribable. It ate the woods like dry straw. It split the
mighty rocks. Cliffs burst open and fell down with the noise of
thunder .... The fish in the rivers came to the surface as
in boiling water. All living things in the path of the flame
perished on the instant."

ST. GEDEON

is a station five miles beyond St. Jerome, and about a mile from
the village of the same name, which is the home of Mr. Joseph
Girard, M.P.P., the indefatigable representative of this section
of the country in the Provincial Parliament. Not far from the
station the railway crosses La Belle Riviere, which, as its name
signifies, is indeed a fine river, and, nearer to its source, traverses
a country famous for the large game that may be hunted in its
forests. Mr. Wilson, of Denver, Colorado, had splendid sport
here in the fall of 1891.

Some six and a half miles beyond St. Gcdeon station, and
twenty-one and a half f rom . Chanibord Junction, the train pulls
up at

HEBERTVILLE,

three or four miles from the village of that name, which is the
largest in the whole Lake St. John country, containing a popu-
lation of at least 3,000 souls. The parish has several good
country stores, and a stone church that cost |6o,ooo. Hebert-
ville takes its name from the Rev. Mr. Hubert, a former parish
priest of St. Paschal, in Kamouraska county, who conducted
the first party of settlers to the scene of the present populous
parish, which was then, in 1849, covered with virgin forest. A
short distance to the south are the extremely picturesque lakes
Kenogami and Kenogamichiche, both of them swarming with
fish, and to the north the new parish of St. Bruno, possessing
excellent soil, upon which settlement is making rapid progress,
and connected by an iron bridge recently erected by the Gov-

cnnneiit over the Little Discharge, with the still more northerly
parish of St, Joseph d' Ahiui, on Alma Island. It may he
interesting to note that heyond the (irand Discharj^e, which
washes the northern shore of the island of Alma, there are two
more newly formed parishes, laid out upon a portion of the
large tract of fine land hordering upon the lake, hetween the
Grand Discharge and the Perihonca.

Just east of Hehertville station the railway runs throiij^h the
picturesque

DORVAL PASS.

This pass is a narrow opening, cleft by some remarkable
force of nature through the mountains, and forms the bed of
the little river Dorval, beside which pretty stream there was
barely space in some localities, between the cliffs on either side
of the pass, to permit of the construction of the railway. This
pass is over a mile in length, and in and about it some splendid
specimens of iron ore have been found.

JONQUIERE STATION

is reached at the forty-first mile from Chambord Junctioi). It is
close to the Riviere au Sable, where there is quite a flourishing
village. The station is so named after one of the last French
governors of Canada, who ruled from 1749 to J752, in vhich
latter year he died at Quebec. Here, as at H^bertville, St.
Gedeon, St. Jerome, and elsewhere in the Lake St. John
country, is the centre of a rich, happy, and contented agricul-
tural population, thriving to their heart's content upon the
fertility of the soil and the result of the profitable dairy industry
in which the greater number of them are engaged. In their
own methods of life and in their religious faith, simple-minded
trust, happy contentedness and frugalit}-, they remind the
readers of "Evangeline" of the Acadians of the otory, while
their houses and villages might almost pass for those of Grand
Pre, so inimitably described by Longfellow. The resemblance
is particularly marked in these lines : —

" There in the midst of its farms reposed the Acadian village.

Solemnly down the street came the parish priest, and the children
Paused in their play to kiss the hand he extended to bless them.

Anon from the belfry

Softly the Angelus sounded, and over the roofs of the village
Columns of pale blue smoke, like clouds of incense ascending,
Rose from a hundred hearths, the homes of peace and contentment.
Thus divelt together in love these simple Acadi.Tn farmers —
Dwelt in the love of God .-ind of man. Alike were they free from
Fear, that reigns with the tyrant, and envy, the vice of republics.
Neither locks have they to their doorrf, nor bars to their windows;
But their dwellings were open ;is day and the hearts of the owners. "

.^6

Here, too, are to be seen the thatch-roofed barns, bursting
with produce, exactly as sung of the Acadians by the American
poet, and if the tourist steps into the interior of the farm-houses
in this country he may see the counterpart of Evangeline's
picture,

" Spinning flax for the loom, that stood in the corner behind her,"

and spinning it, too, upon the most old-fashioned of spinning
wheels. '^^ ,.

THE APPROACH TO CHICOUTIMI . >

by the railway is magnificently grand. Bursting upon the ad-
miring gaze of the travellers on board the train, four miles before
reaching the town, is an ever-to-be-remembered view of the
Saguenay, more than three hundred feet below. The scene is
truly a beautiful one. There is the picturesque and far-famed
water-course stretching away below, and on either hand and in

front are the
heights of the
northern shore,
and upon them,
just over the
river from Chi-
coutimi, the
pretty village
of Sainte Anne
du Saguenay.
From the point

where the railway first overlooks the Saguenay River it runs
gradually down to the level of the government wharf at Chicou-
timi, with a maximum grade of eighty feet to the mile. ;.' . .2
A mile and a quarter from its destination the train crosses a
bridge, sixty feet high, over a picturesque ravine, through which
the Chicoutimi Rive rushes to mingle its laughing, leaping
waters, by a fall fifty feet high, with those of the River of Death,
as Bayard Taylor calls the Saguenay.

The Chicoutimi River rises near Lake Jacques-Cartier, in
the county of Montmorency, and flows northward into Lake
Kenogami, issuing from it again to run an exceedingly rapid
course of seventeen miles more, descending in this brief, latter
career no less than 486 feet, by seven falls and a continuous
series of rapids. The portage at one of the falls takes its name
of "Portage de 1' Enfant " from the story of an Indian baby
who was left in a canoe that, being carelessly fastened, was
carried away by ths current, and leaped the fall of fifty feet
without upsetting.

Operated by the water of the Chicoutimi .River, and situated
near by the railway bridge, are Price's Mills. These form one
of the institutions of Chicoutimi, and one of the largest milling
establishments in Canada, furnishing employment to a vast

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number of men, and through them, and in connection with their
other ramifications, sustaining many of the other industries of
the place. In fact, the history of the business operations of the
Price family is that of the settlement of the Saguenay valley,
the development of the vast country, known during the first
century of French domination in Canada as Le Royaume du
Saguenay, being due to the immense lumbering operations of
that enterprising firm. The present head of the firm is Mr. Wm.
Price, of Quebec, a nephew of, and successor to the late
Senator E. J. Price, a gentleman of princely generosity who died i
in the fall of 1899, lamented all over Canada and especially ■
in this region. The late Mr. William Price, who came to '
Canada, in 1810, was the founder of the house wlr.ich bears his
name, and erected the first lumber mills, both ai Chicoutimi
and Tadoussac. On one of the loftiest points of land in the
town of Chicoutimi stands a monument to the memory of his
son, the late Mr. William Price, Jr., who died in 1881, after
having represented Chicoutimi and Saguenay for some years in
Parliament. Chicoutimi has a Roman Catholic Bishop, Mgr.
Labrecque, and a handsome Cathedral Church and College, built
of stone, besides two large convents. A new chapel was erected
in the early part of 1893, quite close to Price's mill, upon the
site of the little old Jesuit chapel built for the Indians in 1670,

and replaced by an-
Xf'f ''.•ii. ^.-.•^•*. -,'^.•. other erected in 1727
0^ ^"^ by Father Laure.

Michaux, the French
botanist, who ascended
the Saguenay about
the end of the last
century, described the
chapel as being then
in a good state of
preservation, and con-
structed of white
cedar. In 1850, the
remains and site of the old relic were carefully fenced by Mr.
Price. When the foundations were being dug for the new
chapel, in November, 1892, the remains of a coflfin and human
bones were discovered by the workmen beneath the site of the
chancel of the old chapel. With these remains were found
interred a number of curious relics, including an arrowhead, an
iron socket, the point of a sword, plates of metal, and the teeth
of bears and beavers, that had apparently been used as orna-
ments. Conjecture has since been rife as to the identity of the
remains, which some people affect to believe must be those
either of some missionary to the Indians,or of an Indian chief-
tain or other prominent convert to Christianity.

Chicoutimi has now a splendid aqueduct system and is
illuminated by electric light. There is also a very large pulp
mill, which is supplied with water power by means of a flume

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CHATEAU SAGUENAY, CHICOUTIMI.

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having a diameter of ii}4 feet. Its newly enlarged hotel now
bears the name of the Chateau Saguenay,

MAGNIFICENT STEAMERS.
Regular floating palaces are the Saguenay steamers -vhich
connect with the trains of the Quebec and Lake St. John Rail-
way at Chicoutimi. Their extensive promenade decks are
admirable for purposes of observation ; their staterooms, ladies'
cabins, saloons, dining-rooms, etc., are marvels of elegance and
comfort, while the cuisine, the service of the meals, and the
attendance on board leave nothing to be desired. To promote
the pleasure and the comfort of the passengers is the constant
aim of all the officials of the steamers, from their captains down.

THE SAGUENAY.

At Chicoutimi we are some sixty-eight miles from the mouth
of the Saguenay which, nearly as far again to the west of us,
takes its riae where the surplus waters of Lake St. John are
poured oat into the avful chasm where the Laurentian mountains
were wrenched asunder by some violent convulsion of nature.
No other river on the face of the earth affords such startling
contrasts to the tourist as the Saguenay does. It draws its bright
young life from the commingling of its parent streams upon the
elevated bed of Lake St, John, and is twinfold in its early
infancy, where the prattling and the babbling waters of the
new-born river are divided into two streams by the Island of
Alma. For the first nine miles of its existence, on either side
of the isle, it leaps and gambols in frolicsome display, heedless
of the rocks that it encounters on its way, now basking in
pleasure and sunlight, regardless of the coming night, now
flashing, dashing, crashing in the full vigor of lusty youth
over precipitous declines. After the reunion of the sometime
separated waters, at the foot of Alma Island, there is a con-
tinuation for thirty to forty miles more of the precipitous
cascades, and falls, and rapids, of the utmost violence, until,
some few miles above Chicoutimi, the excitement, and life, and
elasticity, and unrest of youth give place to the splendid a've
and magnificent gloom that settle down upon the adult dark
river, becoming deeper and more impressive as they later
approach the stygian darkness of its latter end. A Dante or
a Gustave Dore might have created a reputation by depicting
the leading features of the Saguenay, either in language or
upon canvas.

The lower Saguenay, pouring down towards the sea its
dirgeful flood o* dark and almost unfathomable waters, along
its bed of volcanic origin, cleft between precipitous banks of
adamantine rock, attracts yearly an increasing number of that
ever-extending class of refined and educated American tourists,
whose chief delight it is to read and study nature for them-
selves from the most fascinating pages of her ever-open book.
One of the most highly cultured and most deeply learned of

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this class— Mr. W. 11. H. Murray— thus describcb the birth of
the Saguenay :

"It is a monstrous cleft opened hy earthquake violence
for sixty miles, through a landscape of mountains formed of
primeval rock.

" In old times a shock which shook the world burst the Lau-
rentian range asunder at its St. Lawrence line where Tadoup''ac
now is, and opened up a chasm, two miles across, two thousand
feet in depth, and sixty miles in length stiaight northward.
Thus was the Saguenay born."

The present writer was not there at the time to see, and so
gladly accepts Mr. Murray's story of the event, especially as it
stands corroborated by the most noted geologists of the day.

Professor Roberts says : ' ' The Saguenay can hardly be called
a river. It is rather a stupendous chasm, from one to two and
one-half miles in width, doubtless of earthquake origin, cleft
for sixty-five miles through the high Laurentian plateau. Its
walls are an almost unbroken line of naked cliffs of syenite and
gneiss. Its depth is many hundred feet greater than that of the
St. Lawrence; indeed, if the St. Lawrence were drained dry,
all the fleets of the world might float in th'j abyss of the Sague-
nay, and yet find anchorage only in a few places."

A writer in the London Times calls it "Nature's sarcophagus,"
and declares that, "compared to it, the Dead Sea is blooming."
He continues: "Talk of Lethe or the Styx — they must have
been purling brooks compared with this savage river." The
Indian name of the river was " Pitchitanichetz. "

From Chicoutimi to the entrance of Ha ! Ha 1 Bay, eleven
miles down the river, the scenery is bold, indeed, but less
gigantically so than that which greets the traveller nearer the
mouth of the stream. Almost immediately opposite to Chicou-
timi are Cape St. Fran9ois and the parish of St. Anne du
Saguenay. Lower down than these, the little rivers I'Orignal,
Caribou, and Outardes flow into the Saguenay. They take
their names from the immense numbers of moose, caribou, and
wild geese respectively that are hunted and killed along their
banks. The parish below St. Anne rejoices in the musical
name of I'Anse au Foin, or Grass Bay, where a saw mill affords
employment to a large proportion of the population. The word
"Anse" signifies Bay, and so we have, on the Saguenay river,
not only I'Anse au Foin, but I'Anse Saint Jean, I'Anse 4 la-
Barque, I'Anse k I'Eau, and a number of other peculiarly named
bays. Another striking name for one of the Saguenay harbors
is "La Descente des Femmes," or " the getting-down place for
the women." And what a getting down it must have been
there ! It is some six or eight miles below Ha ! Ha i Bay, on
the opposite side of the river, and is so called because it was at
this point that a number of Indian women, whose husbands
were dying of hunger in the interior of the country, reached
the Saguenay on their way to seek food and assistance.

HA I HA I BAY

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is a large inlet seven miles deep, that is supposed to have taken
its name from the laughing exclamation of the first French
navigators of the Saguenay, who, having entered it, thinking
that it was the main channel of the river, or the estuary of some
very large river, found themselves landlocked on every side.
Its Indian name is Heskuewaska. Its remotest shores are now
lined with the meadows of St. Alphonse. The little rivers Mars
and Ha ! Ha ! which flow into this bay are noted for their trout
and salmon. Guarding the entrance to Ha ! Ha ! Bay is the
rugged promontory, Cape West, and immediately opposite to it,
on the other side of the Saguenay, is the equally bold Cape
East. The grandeur of these capes is increased by the narrow-
ing of the river at this point to some half a mile in width.
Cape East rises almost perpendicularly to a great height above
the water, while about its base are strewn a number of immense
granite boulders, from the interstices of which spring up a
number of stunted trees.

A few miles after passing "La Descente des Femmes,"
already described, there looms up before the tourist, on the
south shore, about fifty miles from Tadoussac, an enormous
rock of singular form and grandeur, which, at a height of
several hundred feet, presents a perfectly vertical and polished
surface, just as if it were a canvas stretched in readiness to
receive a monster picture from the brush of some aerial artist.
Hence it is called " Le Tableau," or "the picture." We are
now approaching the grandest scenery of the entire Saguenay
trip. Two enonnous mountain promontories, on our right as
we descend the stream, command our attention for some time
before we reach them, by the very boldness and massiveness of
their imposing splendor.

There is an exceptional grandeur, a majestic sublimity about
their very names :

"TRINITY" AND "ETERNITY."

Three different elevations, and yet but one rock ! Three dis-
tinct heights, and yet each about the same in its own individual
extent and proportion ! Three equal steps, yet each distinct
from the other; and one great, awful "Trinity" of cape and
mountain raising aloft its summit to a majestically precipitous
height of 1700 feet ! Some pious soul, mindful of the exhorta-
tion of the sweet singer of Israel to " mountains and all hills"
to praise the name of the Triune God, has endeavored to con-
tribute towards the obeying of the command by planting the
symbol of redemption upon the sunmiit of Cape Trinity. Nobody
who gazes, even for a second, upon this triple-crowned pro-
montory, will think it necessary to inquire the origin of its
name. Nearer and nearer to its precipitous cliffs glides the

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steamer, and in proportion as the interveninj< space f^rows less,
floes the true appreciation of the awful height and maSvsive
grandeur of the cape increase. At last, as the vessel steams
around the point and still nearer in to the adamantine walls of
the frowning precipice that seems ready to fall over upon it,
a feeling of awe possesses everybody on deck, and the contrast
between the relative size and apparent importance of the
steamer and all on board of her on the one hand, and of the
natural surroundings on the other, is for the moment overpower-
ing, and for once in his life the tourist is unavoidably confronted
with an enforced reminder of his own utter insignificance.

The innnense height of these perpendicular cliffs renders
distance deceptive. The steamboat appears to be sailing dan-
gerously close to the precipice, that looks to be but a few feet
distant from its decks. You pick up a pebble from a bucket
b. Miding on the deck, and think it an easy matter to throw it
against the rock. To your surprise it falls far, very far, short of
your aim. The steamer is now in Kternity Bay, that separates
the two great Capes; and, amid the deep solitude of such
surroundings, you start affrighted at the sound of your vessel's
whistle, and are impressed beyond measure by the long-
continued and oft-repeated reverberations of its echo. Nor is
your feeling of awe in any way lessened by the remembrance
of the fact that the still, black water of the river out of which
these mountain capes so abruptly rise is nearly 2,000 feet deep.
Cape Eternity is more than a hundred feet higher than Trinity,
or nearly six times as high as the Citadel of Quebec, and if ever
mountain anywhere deserved a name signifying that it was
what it is, is what it was, and shall be' both what it was and
what it is, that mountain is assuredly Cape Eternity. Yet the
knowledge of what has been, and the belief of what shall be,
reminds us that even this "everlasting hill" is only compar-
atively so, and the man of Uz might have had in his mind the
birth of the Saguenay when he wrote, 3,400 years ago, "He
overturneth the mountains by the roots. He cutteth out rivers
among the rocks."

I^rom Cape Eternity to Tadoussac the scenery is one of the
most sublime grandeur. The river is just sufiBciently win 'ing
and indented with bays to cause a new panorama of majestic
splendor to open out before the tourist as each successive cape
is rounded. St. John's Bay or I'Anse Saint-Jean is about six
miles below Eternity, and affords good anchorage for ships. A
little lower flows in the iHtle Saguenay, and on the other side
of the river we pass, half an hour later, the mouth of the
Marguerite, a famous salmon stream, and the principal tributary
of the Saguenay. But just before this comes a couple of islands
of some two miles each in length. Isle Saint-Louis and Isle Saint-
Bartlielemy, or Isle Coquart ; the latter name having been
given it in honor of the last Jesuit m'ssionary but one, who had
charge of the Saguenay Indians, and who died at Chicoutimi in

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1764- After the mouth of tlit- Mar^'ucrite come Saint-Ktienne
Kay, PavSse Pierre Islets, and the I'oitite hi Roiile, the hitter a
towerinfj cape of granite which, as Professor Roherts remarks,
appears for some time to bar our way. This is but three or
four miles from

TADOUSSAC,

and the mouth of the Saguenay. Two Rocky promontories
guard the entrance to the dark river, the Pointe aux Rouleaux
on our right hand as wc descend, and the Pointe aux Vaches on
the left. The latter was so called after the number of the sea-
cows or walrus that are reported to have swarmed here in early
times, where they were hunted by the Basques. Now, as then,
large schools of grampus, a species of whale, may of'^n be seen
disporting themselves upon the surface of the water, off the
mouth of the river, while most excellent sea-trout fishing may
be had throughout the summer season in the various coves or
bays both around and within the entrance to the Saguenay.
The steamer usually remains long enough at Tadoussac wharf
to enable passengers to land and visit the Government salmon
hatchery which is close by. There is a large, comfortable, and
well-kept sunmier hotel here, and near by is th cottage where
Lord DufTerin made his summer home when (iovernor-General
of Canada. The name Tadoussac, in the Montagnais dialect,
signifies "Mamelon," the huge, round hills of sand by which
the village is surrounded. According to the Indian missionary,
Lafleche, the exact Indian name for Mamelons is "Tatoushak,"
"The Doom of Mamelons " is an entrancing Indian romance by
Mr. W. H. H. Murray, the plot of which lies principally in and
about Tadoussac, and in the interior of the pine-clad, mountain-
ous country that stretches away north of it towards Hudson's
Bay. It should be read by all educated and cultured tourists
who are interested in Indian lore, and in these hugesand mounds,
"which rise in tiers to the height of 1,000 feet or more above
the Saguenay, and are supposed to be the geologic beaches of
the morning of the world, and to mark in their successive
terraces that shrinkage of the waters by which the earth's
surface came to view." Tadoussac has a marvellous history,
having been visited by Jacques Cartier, the discoverer of Canada,
ill 1535' The Jesuit missionaries had a mission here as early as
1639. Only within comparatively recent years have white men
settled permanently at Tadoussac, and one of the chief attrac-
tions of the place, to this day, is the little old Indian church,
built in 1750, on the site of the bark -covered hut which served
as a mission chapel until the first church was built in 1648.
Our notice of Tadoussac cannot be more fitly closed than by the
wonderful legend of the last Jesuit missionary who ministered
here to the swarthy Montagnais, Pere la Brosse, who died in
1782. The Father, so the story runs, had been working hard
all day, as usual, among his converts and in the services of the

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church, and had spent the evening in pleasant converse with
some of tlie officers of the post. Tlieir anuizenient and incre-
dulity may he imagined when, as he got up to go, he bade them
good-bye for eternity, and announced that at midnight he would
be a corpse, adding that the bell of his chapel would toll for his
passing soul at that hour. He told them that if they di'l not
believe him they could go and see for themselves, but begged
them not to touch his body. lie bade them fetch Messire
Compain, who would be waiting for them next day at the lower
end of Isle aux Coudres, to wrap liim in his shroud and bury
him ; and this they were to do without heeding what the weather
should be, for he would answer for the safety of those who
undertook the voyage. The little jxirty, astounded, sat, watch
in hand, marking the hours i)ass, till, at the first stroke of
midnight, the chapel bell began to toll, and, trembling with fear,
they rushed into the church. There, prostrate before the altar,
hands joined in p'rayer, shrouding his face alike from the first
glimpse of the valley of the shadow of dcatli, and from the
dazzling glory of the waiting angels, lay Pcre La Brosse, dead.
What fear and sorrow must have mingled with the pious hopes
and tender jjrayers of those rough traders and rougher Indians
as, awe-stricken, they kept vigil that April night. With sunrise
came a violent storm ; but mindful of his command and promise,
four brave men risked their lives on the water. The lashing
waves parted to form a calm path I'or their canoe, and won-
drously soon they wer:^ at Isle aux Coudres, there, as had been
foretold by Pere La Brosse, was IVi. Compain waiting on the rocks,
breviary in hand, and as soon as they were within hearing his
shout told them he knew their strange errand; for the night
before he had been mysteriously warned ; the bell of his church
was tolled at midnight by invisible hands, and a voice had told
him what had happened and was yet to happen, and had bade
him be ready to do his ofTice. In all the missions that Pore
La Brosse had served, the church bells, it is said, niarked that
night his dying moment.

To this chauning legend the Abbo Casgrain adds: "For
many years the Indians going up and down the Saguenay never
passed Tadoussac without jjraying in the church where reposed
the body of him who had been to them the image of their
Heavenly Father. They prostrated themselves with faces to
the ground above his tomb, ."/id, i)lacing their mouths at a little
opening made in the floor of the choir, they talk<>d to him as in
his lifetime, with a confidence tliat could not fail to touch God's
heart. Then they applied the.r ears to the orifice to hear the
saint's answer. In the ingenuousness of their faith and simplicity
of their hearts they imagii.cd that the good father heard them
in his coffin, that he answered their questions, and afterwards
transmitted to God their jjrayers. This touching custom has
ceased since the removal of the renuiins of Pi.re La Brosse.
The abandonment and ruin into which the chapel of Tadoussac

had fallen decided the removal of these holy relics a good
many years ago to the Church of Chicoutimi. "

From Tadoussac the steamer crosses the St. Lawrence diago-
nally to Riviere du Loup, a distance of some twenty-two miles,
passing, as it nears the south shore, immediately in front of

CACOUNA,

the must fashionable of Canadian w.^ Bering-places, which has
been frequently termed the Newport of Canada, from the wealth
and fashion of its summer guests, who owf cottages there or
take appartments at the St. Lawrence Hall, the large hostelry
owned by Mr. R. M. Stocking, of Quebec, that crowns the
heights overlooking the great river. It is by far the largest and
most popular hotel at any St. Lawrence river resort in Canada,
and has accomodation for four hundred guests.

Rivere du I,oup is also an important watering-place, and
possesses several hotels and quite a number ©f jlcgant private
cottages. The drive from the steamboat wharf to Cacouna
occupies less than half an hour, and is one^of the most pictur-
esque in the country. From Riviere du Loup the tourist may
either proceed to Quebec, Ii6 miles distant, by Intercolonial
Railway, return to Lake St. John by the steamer that meets
here with his own, or continue on board the latter until it
reaches Quebec, which is usually about 6.30 a.m., in which
case the pretty and romantic watering-place of Murray Bay will
have been reached about ten o'clock at night.

At least a short stay at each of these summer resorts — say at
Lake Edward, Roberval, the Grand Discharge, Chicoutimi, Ta-
doussac, Cacouna aud Murray Bay — if recommended to the tour-
ist or pleasure seeker. At each he will find a comfortable hotel,
reasonable terms, and delightful facilities for fishing, bathing,
driving, and other amusements. At each, too, will be expe-
rienced the health-giving eflfects of a balmy and exhilarating
climate, but nowhere more so than at either Roberv?! or the
Grand Discharge. Here, not only is the bracing atmosphere
redolent with the resinous odors of the pine and the balsam,
but the air of this far northern country is so tempered by the
prevalence of so large a body of water, that the months of Sep-
tember and October are here the most comfortable of the year,
and have an average temperature at Lake St. John higher than
at either Montreal or Quebec. Invalids from quite a number of
American States have been sent by their physicians to Lake St.
John, and have derived great benefits from a summer's stay at
this great natural sanitarium.

It well repays the tourist to be up and on deck some little
time before the steamer arrives at Quebec. Passing the upper
end of the Island of Orleans a magnificent view is had of the
far-famed Falls of Montmorency on the north shore, while in
front looms up a scene of incomparable beauty, a city set upon
a hill, regal in the splendor of its commanding situation, and

crowned by the world-renowned Citadel fortress. Crowded
upon a lower plateau, but still high above the river, — their tin
roofs glittering like silver in the morning sun, — are thf) cathe-
drals, convents, colleges, and educational institutions which
have contributed to Quebec's fame, and to some extent, at least,
justify her claim to beingthe Athensof Canada. Behind the frown-
ing guns of the Grand Battery is the Archbishop's Palace, and,
adjoining it, the great University bearing the name of Mon-
seigneur de Laval, the pious founder of its parent institution.
Within its walls are educated the descendants of the old French
noblesse, who form the aristocracy of French Canada, and who,
in Parliament, in the Church, and in the British army, nobly
maintain the prestige of tlit chivalrous nation to which they
owe their origin.

As the steamer glides to her moorings under the shadow of
the vast fortification, the student of history will "well mark her

RACES AT CACOUNA.

battlements," and is constrained to recall to memory the many
stirring events which these walls have witnessed. Now, for 140
years, the bugle notes so dear to the heart of the British redcoat
have succeeded to the beat of the French drums, that marked
the century and a half of Quebec's history preceding the event-
ful campaign of 1759. Only a few hundred yards to the west of
the Citadel are the heights of Abraham, where the 2nd and 3rd
battalions of the 60th regiment (Royal Americans) shared with
the famous 78th Highlanders and other British corps, under
Wolfe, the honour of the victory that was so stubbornly dis-
puted by the gallant Royal Roussillon and their equally brave
comrades-in-arms of the sister French regiments of Languedoc,
La Sarre and Guienne, under the intrepid but unfortunate
Montcalm.

The "Royal American," later the 6oth Foot, and now the
King's Royal Rifles — a corps raised by the American colonists
in 1755, and which has since become one of the most distin-
guished in Her Majesty's "ervice — was with the dying Wolfe
on that memorable occaaioa when he gave orders to iutei'cept

QUEBEC & UKE ST JOHN RAILWAY.

The New Reux lu tk*
PAR.PAMEO SACUENAY.

the retreat of the French army across the River St. Charles,
which fomis the northern boundary of the city of Quebec. By
a singular coincidence, the River Charles at Boston, which, like
its Quebec namesake, forms the northern boundary of a city
fairly reveling in the wealth of its historical associations, was
little more than a decade and a half later crossed by the red-
coats, on that eventful day in 1775 of which Americans are so
proud. And yet another coincidence remains to be noted : More
than a century after its honorable service under Wolfe, this for-
mer Boston Regiment was the last to march out of the chain gate
of the Citadel when the Imperial forces were withdrawn from
Canada in 187 1. The stories of the two historical cities of the

continent are thus strangely
linked ; and it is not unworthy
of note that it is to Francis
Parknian, the cultured histo-
rian of Boston, that Quebec is
indebted for the most pictur-
esque and entrancing delinea-
tion of her own romantic past.

Hardly a stone's throw from
the steamboat landing, at the
foot of the precipice upon
which stands the Citadel, the
brave Men tgomery met his
death in 1775. Bordering upon
the over-hanging Dufferin Ter-
race is the Governor's Garden,
and beneath the shade of its
beautiful trees may be discerned
the monument erected to the
joint memory of the two heroes
of Quebec and bearing the well-
kuown inscription, so touching
in its simple, classic beauty,
*^ Mortem virtus communem,
faniani historia, monuinentum,
posteritas dedit."

NotwithstandJtig the withdrawal of the Imperial troops, there
are still heard from the King's Bastion on the Citadel, resound-
ing over the ground once trodden by Champlain, Frontenac,
Montcalm, De Vaudreuil, Murray, Lord Nelson and Mont-
gomery, the familiar notes of the bugle calls which bring
Tommy Atkins to a sense of his duty, whether he be at Halifax,
Bermuda, Gibraltar, Malta, Cairo, Bombay, or distant Burmah ;
and from the highest point of the fortress still floats lazily on the
summer breeze the red cross of St. George, the emblem of that
empire upon which the sun never sets, and which nowhere waves
over a land more richly endowed by Nature with all that goes
to make up the ideal paradise of the tourist and the sportsman,
than that through which we have now drawn our triangular trail.

FISHING NOTES.

All along the line of the Quebec and Lake St. John Railway
^re watt s that teem with fish. Many of them are well pre-
served by the clnbs that own the fishing of them, and all share
in the benefit resulting from their proximity to the National
Park and from the protection enforced therein.

Lake St. Joaeph, at only twenty-four miles from Quebec, has
long been noted for the magnificent trout found therein. It also
contains bass and touladi, (lake trout or namaycush) which
grow to a very large size. The fishing in this lake is free to all.

At St. Raj-mond, thirty-six miles from Quebec, the railway
crosses the St. Anne river. Good trout fishing is to be had in this
river, a few miles above St. Raymond.

Fair trout fishing is to be had in the Riviere a Pierre, not far
from the railway station, which is reached at the fifty-eighth
mile from Quebec. Here the Great Northern Railway branches
off to the west from the Quebec and Lake St. John Railway,
running through the famous fishing territories of the St. Maurice
country, and traversing a'di strict rich in fish and game through-
out almost its entire course.

Continuing along the line of the Quebec and Lake St. John
Railway past Riviere a Pierre junction, the angler finds himself
in the midst of the great fish and game preserve of this delight-
fully wild country.

Before reaching the preserves of the Laurentide and Stadacona
fish and game clubs, the train runs for many miles alongside
the beautiful Batiscan river. The headwaters of this stream and
the lakes surrounding them are leased to the Triton Fish and
Game Club, but in nmch of the river the fishing is free.

The famous large speckled trout of Lake Ed ward, -one hundred
and thirteen miles from Quebec, -can be fished for by all licensed
anglers who are guests of the liberally conducted hotel at the
lake. Excellent fly-fishing is offered by neighboring lakes and
streams controlled by the Laurentide House.

From Kiskisink station, at one hundred and thirty-five miles
from Quebec, a number of excellent fishing waters may be
reached, including the preserves of the Penn and the Meta-
betchouan Fish and Game Clubs, and the richly-stocked head-
waters of the Upikauba and Riviere des Ecorces.

At Lake Bouchette station, one hundred and sixty miles from
Quebec, the members of the Nonantum and of the Ouiatchouan
Fish and Game Clubs tak .: leave of the tr£:in for their respective
preserves.

Chambord Junction is one hundred and seventy-seven miles
from Quebec. Here the Chicoutimi extension of the railway
branches off to the east. The fine spring fishing for ouananiche
in the mouth of the Metabetchouan is reached by this branch,
and also that of Lac dela belle Riviere and Lake Kenogami. From
Chicoutimi at the present terminus of this line, angling trips
may be made in almost every direction,

Roberval at the terminus of the main line of the railway is
the resort of many well-known anglers. Here reliable guides
and outfits may be had for the trout fishing in the Ouitachouan-
iche, and the Aleck and. des Aigles and Little Peribonca, and for
the ouananiche of the Peribonca, Lac Tschatagama, the Mistas-
sini, Mistassibi and Ashuapmouchouan rivers.

From Roberval, too, steamers cross the lake to the Grande
Discharge, where at the Island House, efl&cient guides and
canoes are furnished for "the chosen waters where the ouanan-
iche is waiting," all the way from the great lake iiself to the
end of the rapids, many miles below, where the outlet of Lake
St. John assumes the dark and dismal character and solitary
grandeur of the lower Saguenay.

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FISHERY LAWS OF QUEBEC.

Fishing by rod and line only is permitted in the inland
waters of the Province, and non-residents, unless they are bona
fidt: lessees of angling waters, or members of clubs owning such
leases, must obtain government licenses to fish, which cost $r
per day up to ten days, or |io for a month. These licenses can
be had from Mr. R. M. Stocking, City Ticket Agent of the
Quebec and Lake St. John Railway, Quebec,

CLOSE SEASONS FOR TROUT,

(Salvelinus fontinalis) are from ist October to 30th April in-
clusive ; for salmon, from 15th August to ist February; for
ouananiche, from 15th September to ist December ; for grey
trout, lake trout or lunge ( namaycush ), from 15th October to ist
December; for bass, from 15th April to 15th June; for mask-
inonge, from 25th May to ist July; and for pickerel or dor^, from
15th April to 15th May.

GAME NOTES.

Large game is nowhere more abundant than in portions of
the country traversed by or accessible from the line of the Quebec
and Lake St. John Railway. Moose have been killed at Charles-
bourg, three miles only from Quebec, but this, of course, is
exceptional. At Lorette station, eight miles from Quebec,
Indian hunters may be obtained as guides. From Lake St.
Joseph station, twenty-four miles from Quebec, the Riviere au
Pin country is reached by canoe in autumn and over the ice in
winter. Caribou are frequently killed in this district and also
in the country about Valcartier, which is only fourteen miles
from Quebec. Farther north from this point there is less of
civilization and the game is not so much hunted. St. Raymond,
at thirty-six miles from Quebec, is in the centre of a splendid
country for hunting. Large game hunters come here from

Chicago, New York and the New England States, and every
season sees a number of trophies of the chase shipped from this
station for the United States, in the shape of the heads and
antlers of both moose and caribou. Several guides live in and
about St. Raymond, and a number of different routes may be
taken from the village in the search for game. The Tourilli
Fish and Game Club has a fish and game preserve at some
distance from St. Raymond, upon which several moose have
been killed, aud where caribou are very plentiful. Big game
abounds in many neighboring localities, both north, east and
west. In fact the whole country from St. Raymond north to
Lake St. John and to the Saguenay is full of game. A few
other olubs, including the Triton, which owns p large territory
south -east of Lake Edward have leased- the exclusive right to
the liunting upon their iiuiitd, but by far the larr^er part of the
country ip tree, at least so far as hunting is concerned, to all
comers, ard the guides are usually well informed as to where
the game is preserved.

Riviert k Pierre station, fifty-eight riiles from Quebec, is the
centre of a good moose country. So abundant are these an tiered
monarchs of the forest that soma ft .-. yet'r s ago, nearly thirty of
them were ruthlessly murdered for their hides by the Indians
in one winter. A better system of protection now prevails.
Caribou are found in large numbers all over the territory about
the next succeeding stations on the line of railway — Talbot,
Laurentides, Miguick, Beaudet and Stadacona. Lake Edward
is -n the centre of another excellent large game country. Here
a caribou was taken alive in the water in June, 1899, and a few
days later a moose was also lassooed, but towed the steam launch
to which he was yoked ashore, and made good his escape.
Several moose and caribou are killed here every season, and the
winter hunting is almost always good. The lurge extent of
country about the height of land between Lake Edward and
Kiskisink is overun with, game and is accessible to hunters.
Kiskisink is one h:indred and thirty-five miles from Quebec, and
by disembarking from the train here and striking through the
country, either east or west past the reserves of the Penn, the
Metabetchouan and other fish and gauie clubs, by •■outes that
are well-known to the guides, riore good hunting territories
may be reached. It 's believr 1 that there is no finer hunting
teritory anywhere, for both moose and caribou, than the country
about the head v/aters of the Riviere des Ecorres. Lake Bouchette
at a distance of one hundred and sixty miles from Quebec, is tho
gateway to other good hunting districts.

In all the big game country so far der.ribed, there is consider-
able bird life and other species of game ^ '^ well. Partridges are
abundant everywhere, as evidenced by the vast number shipped
in the fall and winter season to the Quebec market. Ducks,
including a good proportion of the much sought black variety,
are found upon all the lakes and streams of this abundantly

rv V-

watered country, and so are snipe and sand larks. Hares
abound, and sometimes a black bear may be met and killed,
while the skin of a fox may often be the reward of a lucky shot.
In the fall of the year there is always ^ood duck shooting to be
had on Lake St. John, particularly o.T Pointe Bleue and the
mouths of the Ashuapmouchouan and 1 listassdiii rivers.

The Chicoutimi branch of the Quebec and Lake St. John
Railway passes in close proximity to a number of districts well
stocked with large game. Caribou are quite numerous in ilis
Lac de la Belle Riviere district, and some of the best sport in
the province has often been had here. The guides from Lake
St. John are the best for this territory and are furnished at the
Hotel Roberval.

Chicoutimi is the centre of another good hunting district, ex-
tending for a considerable distance upon both sides of the
Saguenay river. Local guides are obtainable, and full informa-
tion respecting them may be had of the management of the
Chateau Saguenay hotel there.

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GAME LAWS OF QUEBEC.

The game laws of the Province of Quebec provide us follows :

Non-residents of the province must not hunt therein, unless
they are bona fide members of a fish and game club incorporated
under provincial laws, and hunting upon territory leased by
such club from the government of the province for hunting
purposes, or unless they have obtained a hunting license from
the government, for which a charge of $25 for the season is
made. Leases of hunting territories not to exceed four hundred
square miles each may be obtained by individuals or clubs from
%i per square mile up.

The close season for caribou is from ist February to ist
September, except north and east of the Saguenay, where the
close season only opens on the ist March ; and that for moose
and deer is from tiie ist January to the ist September, except in
the western district of the province, including the counties of
Ottawa and Pontiac, where the close season is from ist December
to 1st October.

Wild ducks must not be killed between the ict March and the
1st Septembers, nor partridge, woodcock, snipt, plover, etc.,
between ist February and 15th September.

For the convenience of sportsmen, the government has placed
a number of hunting licenses on sale at the ofl&ce of Mr. R. M,
Stockmg, City Ticket Agent of the Quebec and Lake St. John
Railway, Quebec.

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AGRICULTURAL AND CLIMATIC STATISTICS OF THE
LAKE ST. JOHN DISTRICTS.

The foregroin^ pa^es go to prove the advantages of the Lake St. John
and Saguenay districta from a touriat'i and sporlsman'ii point of view. But
these advantages are ot minor importance as compared with those offered by this
newly opened country tu the lumberman and the farmer. In the year
iSqri the Lake St. John Railway carried over 67,ooo,acx> feet of lumber, being
equivalent to more than half of the total export of the port of Quebec, and
it is estimated that these lumbering operations gave employment to about
4,000 men during the winter months.

The very large area of good agricultural land is attracting new settlers from
•II parts. In the year 1807 the railway transported free of charge, no less than
1,373 BONA PiDB new settlers, namely: —

From Canada 737

" United SUtes 46a

" Europe ,. 83

1871

136.099

Ii7,a49

71,310

I56'996

5,966

148,106

44.77a

■7.493

1881

154.589
311,316

100,183
387,338

"6,347
393. '"7
59.795
67.437
32.409
38.281

|.S7>
and 191 delegates from various parts of Canada visited the district for the
purpose of reporting upon its suitaoility for settlement.

The following figures from official reports go to show the agricultural and
climatic advantages of this territory for the new settler.

AGRICULTURAL

Wheat and all grains ripen and produce abundantly, as may be seen from the
following extracts, taken from the census returns:—

1861

Wheat, bushels 10,913

Oats " 39.316

Barley " 30,933

Other Grains

Potatoes, bushels 101,383

Hay, tons 3.648

Butter, pounds 61,777

Head of live stock 18,746

Tobacco, pounds

Population 10,478

in 1891

Potatoes, carrots and other vegetables yield abundantly and of immense size.
Wheat is of course the great test of the soil and climate of any agricultural
country. Let us then compare its production at Lake St. John with the best dis-
tricts of the Province, viz : the Eastern Townships, and we will find that the
census returns shew in 1881 : —

Popula-
tion.

32.409

19.581

15.556

'5.495

CLIMATE OF LAKE ST. JOHN.

To show the excellent climate enjoyed by the valley of Lake St. John
especially at harvest time, we give below a table of the observations of temper-
ature madefrom the 15th September to 8th October, 1890, by the officers of the
meteorological service at Montreal, Quebec and Roberval.

It will be seen that the mean temperature was two degrees higher at Rober-
val than at Quebec and even at Montreal : —

Average.

Roberval (Lake St. John) 6i|[

Montreal 59*

Quebec 59*

Comparison between the temperature of Lake St. John and that of other
localities in Canada : —

Chicoutimi . . .

Compton

Stanstead . . ,
Huntingdon .

Bushels

Wheat.

154.589

34. "8«

Bushels per
1000 of pop.

4,800

1,800

37.7»7
24.370

3,400
1,600

Roberval ._

Chicoutimi

Moose Factory (James Bay)

Port Arthur

Winnipeg

Montreal

Suebec
alhousie

Rimouski

Averag-e

For whole
year.

Winter.

Summer.

35-9

13.3

59-7

3«.8

1.4

57-3

31.3

3-4

57-6

32.2

1-7

56.0

33.1

0.5

58.8

39-2

10.4

62.5

370

8.7

60.3

36.8

«S-2

590

35-7

'5-2

s^a

QUEBEC Ql lake ST, JOHN R'Y

GENERAL OFFICES:
ST. ANDREW STREET TERMINUS

PRINCKSS LOUISB DOCK

QUEBEC.

FRANK ROSS,

J. G. SCOTT,

Sec. & Manager.

President.

ALEX. HARDY,

Gen. Pass. Agent.

R. M. STOCKING,

CITY TICKET AGENT,

IPPIHRIPI^

•(.V

Ce volume dolt dtre rendu h la dernl^re
date indlqu6e ci>dessous.

^^1^/7^