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 PKINTKD BY GKOIIQE EDWARD EY1{E AND WILLIAM SPOTTISWOODE, 
 
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 BRlTIiSH NORTH AMERICAN EXPLORINC. EXPEDinON. 
 
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 TvLPT* JOHSr TALLISER, 
 1868 185». 
 
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SKETCH MAP 
 
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 of 
 CAJ"'.'' PALLISER. ^ Mf^ SULLIVAN 
 
 duriruf 18 59. 
 
 V S Rcundar\ 
 
 * lot 4S'37' W 
 
 REFERENCE. 
 
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I 
 
 
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 I AM 
 
 your directi 
 information 
 
 First, as t 
 it for an En 
 
 The adva 
 would coiisi 
 were requin 
 tenance woi 
 Governmon 
 as it is near 
 
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 information 
 visits, (viz., 
 
 Tiie avei 
 lakes ami ri 
 
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 which ])rec( 
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 cold is in i 
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 this time tl 
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 cases too I 
 cattle are f 
 not only su 
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 new grass 1 
 that month 
 however, s 
 but the cli 
 vegetables. 
 
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 exceptions, 
 the State o 
 the beginn 
 often occur 
 
rURTlEER rATEllS 
 
 BKI.ATIVE TO THE 
 
 EXPLORATION OF BRITISH SORTII AMERICA. 
 
 ■ i 
 
 } ■! 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 Copy of a LETTER from Captain Pali-tskr to tlie Undeii-Secretary 
 
 OF State for the Colonies. 
 
 Fort Edmonton, Saskatchewan, 
 May i-'Utli, 18.5(j. 
 
 My Lord (Rcccivi'd Sciitcmlicr .>, IS;)!).) 
 
 I AM in receipt of your Letter to me dated July .'3rd, 18.38, and in compliance witli 
 your directions I transmit my opinions oii the four points tlierein contained tor tlie 
 information of Secretary Sr E. H. Lytton. 
 
 First, as to wlietiier the Red River Settlement po.sscss qualilicationswiiicli would adapt 
 it for an English Colony. 
 
 The advantages that would accrue to Great Rritain from the possession of this Colony 
 would consist in enabling the British (Jovernment to siipjjort trc>t)ps in case their presence 
 were required in that |)ortion of the empire; without that Colony all supplies for their main- 
 tenance would l)c necessarily cutoff; but if that Colony were adojjted by Her Majesty's 
 Government, it might in a short period become very important head quarters, situated 
 as it is near the boundary of the United States, and almost in the centre of the coiitiiient. 
 
 I shall now endeavour to state its capabiliiies as an agricultural settlement, from the 
 information I have received, as well as from my own observations during three different 
 visits, (viz., in July and in November of 1SJ7 :i"d in April 18.^8.) 
 
 Tiie average winter commences in the middle of Xovombjr ; shortly after this the 
 lakes and rivers set tiist, and the ground acquires its permanent clothing of snow. 
 
 The winter lasts till about the .second week in April, although during the month of 
 March there are many warm genial days, but with hard frosts during the nights; but in 
 addition to this ])eriod of five months there is a previous frost of two or three weeks, 
 which precedes the taking of the rivers; this frost is severe enough to stop agricultural 
 operations, so that the winter may be estimated at si.\ months' duration. The extreme 
 cold is in the month of February, when the thermometer falls to about '15° below zero. 
 The winter is the most favourable time for the transport of heavy materials, such as those 
 required for building purposes. Thaws rarely occur before the montii of March, and at 
 this time tlie existence of horses and horned cattle becomes precarious, owing to the 
 thaws by day being succeeded by tr:>sts at nights, causing a crust on the snow, in many 
 cases too hard for the animals to remove in order to feed. But if horses and horned 
 cattle are properly j)rovided with a sufficiency of hay to meet that emergency, they will 
 not only survive, but continue useful and .serviceable during the whole of the winter and 
 spring. Spring jjiogresses with great rapidity ; in a few days snow disappears, and the 
 new grass has already commenced to grow ii|) by the beginning of May. At the end of 
 that month agricultural ojjerations might be commenced. During the month of. June, 
 however, severe night frosts frequently occur, rendering the wheat crops very precarious, 
 but the climate is well suited to the growth of barley, oats, j)ot.itoes, and garden 
 vegetables. 
 
 The heat during summer is very great, ripening all fruits rapidly with some curious 
 exceptions, among which are apples, which will not grow ei'her there or in the north of 
 the State of Mine.sota. Tlie harvest for hay, which is in great abundance, commences in 
 the beginning of July, and that for the cereals about the lUtli Aui;ust. Great damage 
 often occurs at this time to the crops from thunder storms and also from grasshoi)pers. 
 
 A 2 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 K ■ , i 
 
\ 
 
 ^': t 
 
 i 
 
 4 PAPERS RELATIVE TO THE 
 
 The soil is that of an ancient lake bottom, consisting of variously proportionod mixtures 
 of clay, loam, ami marl, with a remarkable deficii-ncy of sand. It is overlaid by a great 
 thickness of vegetable mould, varying tiom two to f()ur or five feet in deptii. 
 
 The settlement at present occupies an area of aiiout .W square miles in extent ; its 
 centre is at the forks oltlie As^ineboine and Red River in lat. I'/ .3,'' N., long. i)('f 53' \V., 
 and at an elevation of 800 feet above the level of the sea. 
 
 The chief wealth of the agriculturist would be dt-rived fiom tiie rearing of cattle ; 
 large quantities of very nutritious grasses abound everywhere. Hemp, flax, and hops 
 grow admirably. 
 
 Query ^'nd. "What should be the dimensions and the boundary line of such Colony, 
 " and whether it wouKl be advisable to include the Saskatchewan District in it so as to 
 " establish one great border line from the new Colony of Hritish Colmnbia up to t!ic lied 
 " River Settlement, untler a sway and jurisdiction distinct from the Hudson's Bay 
 " Company's authority ? " 
 
 In answer to this question I can only state, that I camiot see any object in limiting a 
 new Colonv to such narrow bounds as'the mere district of lleil Uiver, and feel decidedly 
 in favour of annexing not only the Saskatchewan, but also the Swan Kiver District in one 
 Colony, and so estiiblish onegreat borderline from the new Colony of Hritish Columbia 
 up to the Red River Settlement. 
 
 The occupation of tiie territory will only be a work of time ; in proportion to the 
 increase of population at Red River, settlers will advance into the Swan Iviver and 
 Saskatchewan Districts. 
 
 The country drained by the Saskatchewan is very diverse in character, but although 
 not presenting the same luxuriance of vegetation as tiie valley of Red River, there are 
 many localities, both there and in the Swan Uiver Districts, where fine arable tracts arc 
 to be found. The northern part of the Saskatchewan is a })artially wooded country, 
 havinir at one time been covered bv an extension of the great pine forests of the north, 
 which have been removed by successive fnes. 
 
 The soil consequently alioiiiids in vegetalilc mould, and is far superior to the prairie 
 lands projier to the south, where there is in geik'ral but a very scanty growth of herbage. 
 Tiie northern i)ortioii of tlie Saskatchewan District is well adapted for the rearing of 
 cattle, also for the raising of slieej), if housed ami tl-d iluriug the winter anil spring. 
 
 Its climate is somewhat similar to that of Red River, but decidedly milder in the 
 southern ami western jwrtious ; the western jiortiou of Swan River District is mucli 
 the same as the northern parts of the Saskatchewan ; wiiile the northern and eastern 
 parts, which consist chiefly of lakes, are valuable for their abundant supply of excellent 
 fish. 
 
 To the north of the north branch of the Saskatchewan there is also a line of lake 
 country crowning the watershed between that River and English and Athabasca Rivers, 
 from which abundant supplies of fish can be obtained. 
 
 If then the united territories of Red River, Swan River, and Saskatchewan, were 
 adopted by Her Majesty's Government, I would suggest the following boundaries : — 
 
 The southern boundary of the Colony should be the IDth parallel of north latitude, 
 commencing on cast shore of the Lake of the Woods, to where it meets the crest of the 
 Rocky Mountains in long. 115" W. The eastern boundary of the Colony should be 
 defined by a line commencing at the l<f)th parallel on the western shore of the Lake of 
 the Woods, and following the western margin of that Lake to the watercourse wiiicli 
 unites the Lake of the Woods with Lake Winipeg, fiom thence extending around the 
 eastern shore of Lake Winipeg, and following the water course of that lake to the .Okii 
 parallel of N. lat. in long. 9S° W. The norlheru bouiulaiy ot the Colony might run from 
 the above point of intersection along the parallel of 51" of N. lat. to the point where 
 it intersects the crest of the Rocky Mountains in 118° of W. long. 
 
 The whole would thus include a territory of '21.(),()()0 square miles. 
 
 In reference to the concluding portion of the second query in your Lordship's letter, 
 viz., whether such colony should be under a sway and jurisdiction distinct from the 
 Hudson Bay Company's authority, I have no hesitation in expressing my conviction that 
 it is imjjossible for the Hudson's Bay Company to provide a government to meet the 
 exigencies of a growing colony. Indians they can govern well through the medium of 
 the trading shop ; but the interests of a commercial conunuuity, which at all events must 
 be adverse to their own, would not be likely to prosper under their rule. But as this is 
 only an opinion perhaps it will not be out of place here to state a case. On my return 
 (last May twelve months, from Red River to Fort Carlton) I visiteil Manitoba I'ortage, 
 a flourishing settlement, which tiiouj^h situated not more tlian (iO miles fiom Red Kiver 
 S».itlenieiit, the general cause of complaint was that when they brought cases ot theft, 
 
 trespass, or 
 were at one 
 informants \ 
 compelleil t 
 
 In answei 
 " of access 
 means of ac 
 
 The dire( 
 Superior, ar 
 manner in 
 possessions 
 country, am 
 the settlemi 
 
 In answc 
 " judging f 
 " fiicilities 
 " remote oi 
 " taking bi 
 have no lit 
 from Red 
 route wouli 
 
 An amoii 
 sufficient to 
 the Rocky 
 
 In my lei 
 to the two '. 
 found jjiact 
 Columbia 1 
 for carts, an 
 
 On the r 
 the mounta 
 leaves the 
 traversed, 
 others we 
 the descent 
 the low al 
 upon the 
 project of 
 entertainei 
 
 In cone 
 with my it 
 of the Col 
 exist, or o 
 of the Col 
 receiving 
 which lU) 
 
 In the 
 American 
 mend that 
 letter fion 
 years in c 
 
 This uu 
 to be the 
 
 The II 
 of the Iiu 
 District, 1^ 
 River (a 
 have sugg 
 irrespecu\ 
 
 The Undc 
 
EXPLORATION OF BRITrSH NORTH AMERICA. 5 
 
 trespass, or any other such cause of complaint, l)efore the tribunal at Red River, they 
 were ;it once dismissed on the plea that the district was beyond their jurisdiction, and my 
 informants went on lo say, tiiat if matters were allowed to go on thus they would be 
 compclleil to institute a lynch law of their own. 
 
 In answer to the third query contained in your Lordship's letter, vi/., " What means 
 " of access exist for Hritish immigrants to reach tiiis settlement," I think there are no 
 means of access to be recommended save tliose via the United States. 
 
 The direct route from Kngland via York Factory, and also that from Canada via Lake 
 Superior, are too tedious, dillicult, and expensive iov the generality of settlers. The 
 manner in which natural obstacles have isolated the country from all other IJrilish 
 possessions in the East is a matter of considerable weight ; indeed, it is t/ie obstacle of tiie 
 country, and one, I fear, almost beyoiui tiie remedies of art. Tlie egress ami ingress to 
 the settlement from the east is obviously by the lied iiiver X'alley ;nid tiirough the States. 
 
 In answer to the Ibiuth cpu-ry contained in your Lordship's letter, viz., *' Whether 
 " judging from the explorations you iiave already made, the country presents such 
 " facilities tor the construition of a r.iilway as woulil at some period, though possibly a 
 " remote one, encourage « ler Maj(!>ty's (Joverument in the belief that such an untler- 
 " taking between the Athnitic and Pacific Oceans could ever be accomplished?" I 
 have no hesitation in stating that no obstacles exist to the construction of a railway 
 from Ked River to the eastern base of the Kocky Monutaius, and probably the best 
 route would be found in tiie neighbourhood of the south branch of the Saskatchewan. 
 
 An amoimt of capital very small in projjortion to the territory to be crossed would be 
 sufficient to accomplish tlie untlertaking so fiir, l)ut the continuation of the railway across 
 the Rocky Mountains would iloubtl(!ss rei[uire a cousideral)le outlay. 
 
 In my letter to Her Majesty's (Joverument, dated 7th October ISOS,* I have referred 
 to the two Passes examined by myseif anil mv Secretary. Mr. Sidlivan, both of which I 
 fouiul practicable for horses ri<>lit across the main chain of the iiocky Mountains to tiie 
 Columbia Kiver, and tiiat a small outlay would render the more northern one practicable 
 for carts, and even waggons. 
 
 On the return ot Dr. Hector from his branch expedition, 1 found he iiatl also crossed 
 the mountains as tar as tlie valky of the Columbia River by the N'ermilliou Pass which 
 leaves the valley of How River nearer to its source tiian the pasvs I liad myself 
 traversed. In that pass he had observed a j)eculiarity which ;!istingiiis!ies it from the 
 others we had examined, viz., the absence of any abrupt stej) at the commencement of 
 the descent lo the West, both ascent and descent being gradual. This, combined with 
 the low altitude of the greatest elevaiiou passed over, led him to report very favourably 
 upon the facilities of this pass tor the clearing of a waggon roatl, and even that the 
 project of a railroad by this route across the Rocky Aiountaiiu. might be reasonably 
 entertained. 
 
 In conclusion I wish to draw your Lordship's attention to the fact, that, in accordance 
 with my instructions, we ilid not continue our explorations westward beyonil the valley 
 of the Columbia, I am tlieretore unable to tbrm an opinion on any facilities ihat may 
 exist, or obstacles which may oppose the further eontimiauce of a railway liom ;lie valley 
 of the Cohnnbia River to the shores of the Pacitic, 1 am in hopes, however, of soon 
 receiving an answer to my letter to Her Majesty's tiovernnient, dated 7th October 18.38, 
 which lU) doubt will contain further instruetioiis as to my explorations in that ilireetion. 
 
 In the event of Her Majesty's (Tovernment deciding on the adoption of a North 
 American Colony, comprising Red River and the Saskatchewan Districts, I would recom- 
 mend that the Swan River shouKl also be included in that Colony, and I beg to submit a 
 letter from W. I. Christie, Ls(|., an oilieer of the Ilutlson's Ray Com])aiiy, tor some 
 years in charge of that district i)revious to his recent promotion to the Saskatchewan. 
 
 Thi> enclosed letter will explain what are coiisiilered by the Hudson's Ray Company 
 to be the bounds ot the Swan River district. 
 
 The Hudson's Bay Company Territories, are divided into districts for the convenience 
 of the Indian iraile. The valley of the Swan River does not embrace the Swan River 
 District, nor does the Saskatchewan District contain the whole valley ot the Saskatchewan 
 River (a ])ait of whose waters run through the Ciimberlaiul District), ami therefore I 
 have suggested, in answer to (piery 2, boumlaries for the Colony under consideration, 
 irrespec'iivcly of the districts or parts of districts which they comprise. 
 
 I have, &c. 
 (Signed) JOHN PALLISLR. 
 The Under Secretary of State for Colonies. Comnuuuling Exploring Expedition. 
 
 
 
 i :• 
 
 i k 
 i - 
 
 * lulc I'apcVH pvosentoil Juno 1859, p. 29. 
 A 3 
 
6 
 
 PAPERS RELATIVE TO THE 
 
 Enr.l. ir 
 No. 1, 
 
 m 
 
 r 
 
 No, 2, 
 
 Enclosure in No. 1. 
 
 Edmonton llousp, Saskafcnewan District, 
 Sin, ITtli AIny, isr.y. 
 
 Ar.nKKADi.Y to your rc(|UPst, I l)o<j leave to submit to you the foilowinu information rpganiinn" 
 the extent and resources ot'tlu' Swan Kiver District oi'tiic Hudson's Hay territories, 
 
 Tiie Swan Kivcr districts extend from tlic Mauitoliah j)ost on flic south, and of Manitoltah lake, to 
 ■nitliin three days of Fort ("arlton on tiie north branch of tiie Saskatclu'wan river. It emliraccs the 
 country as far south as the Imiuidary line from loufjitudc !)',) W. to lo(i \V. To tiic west it bouuda 
 witii tiie Saskatciicwan district, and on tiie north with the Cumberland district. 
 There iu'c seven tradinjj posts in tiie district, viz. : — 
 
 Fort Elhce. 
 
 Fort I'elly. 
 V.jxg Lake. 
 Shell Kiver. 
 Maiiitobah. 
 
 Toucliwood Hills. 
 (^•'Aiipelle Lakes. 
 
 pioviMdiis from the plains, while Shell River 
 
 Of these, the three latter are jilaiu posts, the trade at them being mainly for provisions, the otlierg 
 lying witliin the thiekwood country, arc fur trading jiosls. 
 
 Fort IVliy is tiic iiead (|uarfcis of tlie district, the aral)le land round Fort Pelly is not of any great 
 extent, owing to the ])icvalcncc of sandy soil and swampy land, cavercd with tiiick wood. 
 
 On the few patciies which liave been Ijrougiit under cultivation in tiic iicighiionrbood of the Fort 
 barley, potaioes, and all vegetables are raised to peifccfioii. Wlicat has been tried, Imt invariably fails'. 
 
 Tlio ])asture^ around Fort Felly is excellent, and the cattle raised here have produced I)eef of very 
 fine quality. Tiie Hiidson"s Hay Coiiiiiauy liave a considerable stock of cattle at this post, and rear 
 some fiiie horses, tiie l)recds Iia\ ing iiceii iiiiiioitcd direct from Fnglaiid. 
 
 At all the tliickwood posts in tliis district, tlicre is almndaiicc of timber for buildin" and other 
 purposes, consisting of spruce, ])iiic, and poplar. " 
 
 Fort I'cUy and Egg I.akc arc entirely supjilied witli 
 and Mauitoliah posts arc siijiiiortc d by fisli. 
 
 Tlie country around F(U't Filicc and tlie 'I'oucliwuod Hills is well adajited for cultivation, and the 
 rearing of cattle; tlie soil is good, Imt tlicre is a great scarcity of timiier cither for fuel or buildiu" 
 pur| loses. " 
 
 The Q'Appellc Lake jiost is liir out in tlie idaius.aiid the countrv anuiiid it is almost de\oid of wood. 
 There is an excellent lishcry at the (j'Appcllc lake.-: white lish are speared here in .rieat numbers iu* 
 the autumn. " 
 
 The tliickwood ])opulatioii of tlic Swan liivcr district is about lOOO: but owing to the wanderinn- 
 habits of the ]irairie liidiaus it is diliicult to form an estimate of their numbers. " ° 
 
 _ The cotniilcnicnt of ollicers, clerks, and men ciiii)loyc(l l)v the Hudsoirs Uav Company in this district 
 IS as follows, viz. : — ■ i j » 
 
 One Connnissiiincdolllcer, f. Clerks, 7 Interpreters, and aliout 70 men, iiriiicipallv half-breeds 
 
 1 he (listri<-t IS conipictcly ovcirini by free traders from the Ucd !{iver settlement, who come up hi 
 the fall and pass the winter along the frontier of the district, dciicudant entirely nnon IJntfalo for 
 tiieir sui)))ort. ' ' 
 
 There is one settlement in this distri.'t at the south end of the Manitobah Lake, where there is a 
 -Missionary settlement, with a iiopulatiou of about i:.o souls who are entirclv sui.portcd bv fi-hin.r 
 raising a few potatoes only. ^\ beat however grows well there. There are besides this nHssi(mar"v 
 settlcinciit, two nu^sumanes in the distrn't, one slati.med at Fort I'clly and the other at (^'Appelle 
 l^akes, all belong to the ( liurch Missuniarv Society. ^^ 1 1 
 
 Hoping the above inforination will be suliicicnt, 
 
 John I'alliscr, Esq,, 
 Commanding Exploring Expedition. 
 
 I have, 
 (Signed) 
 
 AV.M. J. CnuisTii;, 
 
 No. 2. 
 Copy of a LETTER from Captain Vmaasvm to Ilim Majksty's 
 
 OECUr.TAliV OF StATK I'OU Tllr; Coi.oMi:s. 
 
 Fori; Ediiionton, Saskatchewan. 
 
 ^^Y Lord, (Received September 6, 1859.) 
 
 I AVAii myself of tl.c opportunity nfTordccl by the departure of the II -Ison's Ray 
 
 ST"^' n ; ?'■^,'''''^' ";:".^''' ^" ^'^<l"'='i"t your Lordship of the r.t.Mt, of Mous. 
 Boi.rgeau (botanist ol the expe.htion under my command) to Enn-land 
 
 I have oreat pleastne in testifying to M. Ronrgeai.'s zeal and aetivity in every way. 
 In acKl.tton o h.s acqt.ireme.us^as a botanist, he possesses the tnost tnUiring energy, and 
 in camp no fafgues deter htm from immediate attention to tlie scoring and pre erva ion 
 or Ins specniicns. " i<ivai.i vauun 
 
 He now leaves the expedition in order to return at tlie end of this his third season to 
 
 suSmtndncr;:;' r^i''^ '""^r.^' ""•^ <^""^^"^-'"» ^^•"'' ^'-^ -pcdition u'r ile 
 
 superintenilance ot Dr. Hooker at kew. 
 
 I regret t 
 district, I ar 
 of Buffalo, t 
 qucnccs, I tl 
 letter addre.^ 
 while make t 
 which time 
 
 I regret t 
 all in my po 
 
 I have spc 
 the RIackfee 
 with many c 
 with in all ( 
 RIackfeet an 
 RIackfeet he 
 
 Doctor H 
 exploration ; 
 
 I am hapf 
 the exceptio 
 for his activi 
 Hector and i 
 
 Her Mi 
 
 Secretary of 
 
 Sir, 
 
 I HAV 
 expedition u 
 27th of May 
 
 Owing to 
 buffalo from 
 sooner than 
 had not yet , 
 yet received 
 was to recrc 
 with buffalo i 
 Hector with 
 
 Our party 
 friends of mii 
 in the coinmi 
 opjioitunity ( 
 and their nv 
 chargeable to 
 theiti for the 
 and cheerful 
 alacrity with 
 
 On 2nd of 
 however inar 
 we fell in wit 
 (Lat. 51" 32' 
 await the arri 
 the 14th of. I 
 an unsuccess 
 them liospita 
 whom the Rlj 
 
EXPLORATION OF BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 I regret to say that in consequence of the total faihire of provisions in this part of the 
 district, I am compelled to start with the expedition immediately to the south in search 
 of Buffalo, the delay of even one day in the present crisis might be of serious conse- 
 quences, I therefore cannot wait for the arrival of further instructions in answer to my 
 letter addressed to your Lordship, dated October 1S58, but must hasten soutii, and mean- 
 wliilo make the best arrangements in my power for receiving my letters on the plains, until 
 which time I will take no decided step with respect to further explorations. 
 
 I regret to say that the war is just about to be renevved, but 1 shall endeavour to do 
 all in my power to cement the peace again. 
 
 I have spent the greater part of the winter at the foot of the Rocky Mountains among 
 the Blackfoet, and am personally acquainted with almost all the principal men, and also 
 with many of the Piegan and Blood Indians. I have found them much easier to deal 
 with in all questions of jjcace or war than their neighbours the Crees. Because the 
 Blackfeet are richer in horses, war is the greater object to the Crees in order to steal the 
 Blackfeet horses. 
 
 Doctor Hector also during the winter proceeded to the mountains, and the result of his 
 exploration and observations will be reported in due course. 
 
 I am happy to state that almost all our horses have got through the winter fairly, with 
 the exception of four deaths, and none have been stolen, and I have to thank i\Ir. Sullivan 
 for his activity and zeal in looking after them during tlic protracted absence of Doctor 
 Hector and myself while we were in the mountains. 
 
 I have, &c. 
 (Signed) JOHN PALLISER, 
 
 Her Majesty's Principal Commanding Exploring Expedition. 
 
 Secretary of State for the Colonies. 
 
 . 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 Copv of a LETTER from Captain Palliskr to Her Majesty's 
 Secretauy of State for the Colonies. 
 
 Fort Colvile, October 22, 1859. 
 
 SjH (lieceivwl Dcccmbor 27, 1859.) 
 
 I HAVE the honour to resume the account of the proceedings of the exploring 
 expedition under my command, since our departure from Fort Edmonton, on the 
 27th of May 18,51). 
 
 Owing to the great scarcity of ])rovisions at Edmonton, and the total absence of 
 buHIilo from that ])art of the country, I was compelled to start with the expedition 
 sooner than 1 would have wished, both on account of the condition of my horses, that 
 had not yet sulKciently recovered from the severities of winter, also, because I had not 
 yet received further instructions from tlie (\)!onial OfHce as to whether my expedition 
 was to recross the Ilocky Mountains. I therefore determined to endeavour to tiill in 
 with buffalo as speedily as jjossible, and there to await my instructions, and left Doctor 
 Hector with directions to follow as soon as the mail from England had arrived. 
 
 Our party c;)nsisted of IG men, including my secretary, Mr. Sullivan, and myself, two 
 friends of mine, Captain Brisco, of tiie lltli Hussars, and Mr. Mitchell, who joined me 
 in the commencement of last winter, and who were anxious to avail themselves of this 
 opportuiuty of traversing the Blackfoot country. Tiie accession of these two gentlemen 
 and their men to my ])arty enabled me to save some expence by hiring tewer men 
 chargeable to the expedition, and I have had ever since cause to feel most thankful to 
 them for the zeal and kindness, with which they have followed my directions, the patience 
 and cheerfulness with which they endured many ])rivations, and the steadiness and 
 alacrity with which they undertook the guarding of the horses by night. 
 
 On 2nd of .June we reached Buffalo Lake, where our provisions were exhausted; we 
 however managed to support ourselves on ducks and beaver until the 11th, when 
 we fell in with buffalo on the Oochischis Wachee or Hand Hills, in the Blackfoot country 
 (Lat. 51" 32' N., Long. 111° 20' W.) Here I established my camp, and determinetl to 
 await the arrival of Doctor Hector tioin Kdniontou, with the letters from England. On 
 the 14th of .June we were visited by a war party of 15 Blackfeet, on their return from 
 an unsuccessful invasion against the Crows. Having now plenty of meat, I received 
 them hospitably, and dissuaded them from turnmg their arms against the Crees, from 
 whom the Blackfeet had recently received great provocation, and persuaded them to 
 
 A 4 
 
 No. 8. 
 
 « "1 
 
 
8 
 
 PAPERS nrXATIVE TO tllE 
 
 iV 
 
 Ifi 
 
 If 
 
 f 
 
 I 
 
 return to tlicir ciiiiip. We wore subsequently visited hv several war jiarties, wliicli, on 
 the whole, were not very troublesome, but, uiif()itiniately, siieei'ciied in fiij;lUenin<r one 
 of my halt-breeil hunters and most of the men so nnich iha' I had no small anu unt of 
 trouble to prevent my men from desertniu; and abandoning the expedition altogether, 
 partieulaily when I intbrmed liiem of my deternn"nalion (in pursuance oi'my instnietions 
 of April lSo7) to penetrate in a south-easterly direeiion to the tbrks of the Red Deer 
 and 15ow rivers, thenee to the (Vjireis mountains, and along tlie boundary line to the 
 Rocky mouiUains. 1 was tiiially obliged to compiomise the matter by consenting to 
 send back to Ethiionton and engage tivf more men from Lake St. Ann's. 
 
 ji,iu> li). — Doctor Hector arrived witii instructions Irom the Colonial OHice, and I 
 determined (without sacrilicing any of the objects of the expedition in the country 
 eastward of the Kocky mountains) to pursue my route to tiie westward over the passes 
 discovered last year, as tar towards the sea :!s tlic season woidd iiernn't. 
 
 On 'JOIN of June I despatched Felix Monroe, one ol' my hunters, to Kdinonton, with 
 directions to u)n.ige five additional ellijctive men; 1 took the precaution of sending 
 provisions '.vith him tor the use of liimself and these men (>n tiieir return journey back 
 :o mv canij), ilirecting I'Vlix to make a cache of the i)rovisions when he came within 
 two davs ot'the Fort, in order to prestMxe them from the hungry ])opulation at Ivlmonton, 
 for theiise of tiie men on their return, but tiie fearfid state to which the Kdmonton 
 poj)ulation were driven was such thai the men sent hack to the cache, and gave up the 
 provisions to tiie women and children, and reached my camp on the Ith of .luly, having 
 had iu)thing to eat li)r three and a lialf days, an account which their fearfully Haggard 
 features fidly confirmed. 
 
 The Hlackfeet com])lain very bitterly of the Hudson ])ay ('om])any, and certainly 
 not without reason, for tlu- injustice of t!;e tariff and the enormous liitference between 
 the price i)aid hy a C'ree ;uid by a l!Iackl()ot at the same Fort, for the same article. 
 Also, they complain of the utter iusulliciency of the goods that remain at the Fort 
 dining the sununer montiis. *' 'i'lierel()re,'' said their cl.iels to me, " lei them see how 
 Well tiiey can do witiiout us now I" However, 1 persnatleil them to go into Etlmonton, 
 and bring them jjrovisious, a.iul have since heard that these Indiaiis fulfilled their 
 promise to me. 
 
 Owing to niv iiavinu, hien so nuieh in the l)lackl()ol comifiy, both in the sununer 
 of ISjb and tiie winter of IS,;S-!) all liie chiefs and principiil men know me, and 
 fre(iiiently said to mo " Desire lis to do anything you please and we will do it." Doctor 
 liector also has acipiired a great inliueiice among theui In removing some triHing 
 complaints from tlie men, and a great success in his pioliession among tiie women and 
 children. Neither is tiiis trieiiilly leeling coiilineil to the Riackleet alone, liir both 
 Piegans ami Diood Indians, whenever they came in any numbers to visit me, always rode 
 unarmed into my camp, which is the greaiest coinpiiment that these Indians can 
 possibly pay. 
 
 M'e have now travelled tiirougli the whole of their territories, a jiortion of country 
 hitherto considered so dangerous as to be almost inaccessible, and we have neither had 
 a horse stolen or a gun pointed at us by any of these tribes. However, I do not wisli to 
 infer that a total stranger would be ecjually sale, nor that any one accompanied by a 
 military force (unless that fierce were a very large one) would also bo safe; 1 think in 
 either case they woidil run very great risk of having all their horses stolen. These Indians 
 tent in very large camps, fi-om lUO to (iUU tents together. 
 
 The Oochischis Wacliee or Hand Hills in Lat. .51" 32' N., Long. 111° 120' W., are a 
 plateau, elevated about I.jO feet above the level of the surrounding jnairies. The grass 
 and land were very good, but the timber not of any value, being chiefly wdlovv and 
 poplar. With the exception of very few similar spots, the whole prairie over which we 
 passed to our crossing place on IWd Deer River (about 40 miles above the forks of 
 Red Deer :uid How rivers) is a sandy country, the grass very scanty, and no wood. 
 
 On July l.Jth we crossed Red Deer River, and tollowcd along its south bank until 
 we arrived opposite the site of where the old Fort called Chesterfield House once stood ; 
 with the exception of the bed of Ueil Deer River the whole of that region is valueless, 
 the grass being very scanty and timber very scarce. 
 
 Ha\iiig now reaciied the lloth degre of longitude, I considered the whole of that 
 region sufiiciently explored, being now witiiin AO miles to the westwaril of that point 
 of the Bow River which we had reacheil fioni the eastward, at the end of September 
 1837. 
 
 The general barrenness and absence of valuable timber along this whole region of 
 country, has been the cause of great disappointment to us, as all the previous accounts 
 we liad heard of the south branch of the Saskatchewan or l}(jw River, hud led us to 
 
 believe, tlia 
 examined al 
 up to the p( 
 no means a 
 
 There is i 
 places, here 
 four luuuln 
 appear. 
 
 We were 
 July 19tlj w 
 all rode una 
 with them t 
 and mvself 
 30 feet in d 
 spoons, anil 
 Fort Benton 
 
 Our BlacI 
 regret, as I 
 
 On Uiim\ 
 by wrappinji 
 .swimming o 
 Cyprees Mo 
 men to trav( 
 I told them 
 unless the j( 
 made an c.\y 
 a Black foot i 
 Edmonton h 
 
 He being 
 to induce hi 
 me, but the 
 kicked out c 
 
 1 am hapi 
 succeeded c 
 persuasion. 
 
 The Cypr 
 feet above tl 
 well watered 
 east anil wes 
 of the elhov 
 our return t( 
 
 W'e remai 
 Here our bn 
 exhausted, s; 
 side of the 1 
 
 From thi^ 
 expedition, i 
 \859. I ac 
 with instruct 
 year, and en 
 ward, by the 
 Columbia R 
 succeeded In 
 
 On 3rd A 
 we broke up 
 Saskatchewa 
 to Fort Bent 
 to the Chief 
 your time wi 
 latitude, bet' 
 the very in 
 appearing lie 
 wholly depei 
 sidphatcs, an 
 
EXPLORATION OF BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 believe, that if, would Iiave I)een a most desirable place for settlors, but liavinir now 
 examined all tliat river, we find the wiiolc reuioii Crom the elbow in longitude 10/° .'37'W. 
 up to the point where the meridian of 11'2°\V. intersects the "line of the woods," by 
 no means a desirable district for settlement. 
 
 'i'here is throughout the whrle of this reunion a great scarcity of rain; but in a few 
 places, here and there, where the land rises above the plain to the height of three or 
 lour hundred i'eet, good grass and some timber, as rough bark, poplar, and willow 
 appear. 
 
 We were now not far from the IJlood Indian Camp, pitched to the southward of us. 
 July lf)th we were visited by a grt'at number of the Indians, headed by their two chicfi?, 
 all rode imarmeJ into our camp ; they spent the day with us, and insisted on our riding 
 witii them the following day to their camp, where they received Capt. Hrisco, Dr. Hector, 
 and myself most hospitably. Their tents are the largest I have ever seen, some of thorn 
 30 feet in diameter and of a proportionate height, well supplied with kettles, dishes and 
 spoons, and frequently with American luxuries, such as coil'ee and sugar. They trade at 
 Eort Benton O) the Missouri. 
 
 Our Blackfeet guides deserted us here, from fear of these Indians, which I did not 
 regret, as I found them expensive and useless. 
 
 On !212nd July, we crossed to the south bank of tlie lower Saskatchewan or Bow River, 
 by wrapping up our baggage in leather tents, so as to form them into circular boats, and 
 swimming our horses across. From thence wc proceeded in a S.W. direction to the 
 Cyprees Mountains in longitude 111" W. Here I had groat difliculty in inducing my 
 men to travel any further, they were literally terrified, but we forced them onwards. 
 I told them they would have no pay nor any assistance back to their country from me 
 unless the Journey were performed, a threat they knew I would execute. I had already 
 made an example of one of them when at the Hand Hills where I lost my old hunter, 
 a Blackfoot half breed, who had faithfully followed me across the mountains and back to 
 Edmonton last year. 
 
 He being an old man, I allowed him to return when all my persuasions and promises 
 to induce him to advance had failed. I paid him up to the time he had remained with 
 me, but the Hrst man that i)roclaimed his intention to follow his example, I collared, 
 kicked out of the camp, and refused his pay, as well as j)ermission to return. 
 
 1 am happy to say 1 was not obliged to ailopt this course on any other occasion, but 
 succeeded ever after in keeping my men together principally by ridicide and partly by 
 persuasion. 
 
 The Cyprees Mountains in hit. ■il)° 38' N., long. 1 10° \V. are a range elevated 1,G00 
 feet above the level of the plains, covered in fine timber, abounding in excellent grass, 
 well watered, and fiiirly though not abundantly stocked with game. They run luarly 
 cast and west, and are connected with the Coteau des Prairies about 40 miles to S.W. 
 of the elhow of the south branch of the Saskatchewan which we reached previous to 
 our return to the northwTird, iu order to winter at Carlton in October 1857. 
 
 We remained some days in the Cyi)recs Mountains to hunt and make provisions. 
 Here our bread and tea, which we had hitherto oidy enjoyed twice a week, was at length 
 exhausted, save one bag of flour, which I carefully kept for the doctor's use on the west 
 side of the Ilocky Mountains, where I knew all other resources would fail. 
 
 From this point I deemed it advisable that Dr. Hector should start on a branch 
 expedition, in conformity to my instructions from the Colonial Oilice dated 8tli February 
 1859. I accordingly fitted him out with Ki horses, four men, and an Indian hunter, 
 with instructions to procicil and enter the mountains by the "pass" he explored last 
 year, and endeavour to discover and explore a route practicalde f(:)r horses to the west- 
 ward, by the valleys of Fnizcr and 'i'bompson's Rivers, and to avoid the valley of the 
 Columbia River. Also, that if he faileil, he was to join me at Colvile, but if he 
 succeeded he was to go on to Fort Langley. 
 
 On 3rd August, having converted the red deer and buffalo we bad killed into pemican, 
 we broke up camp. Dr. Hector started for the headwaters of the south branch of the 
 Saskatchewan, anil my two friends Cajjtain Brisco and Mr. Mitchell proceeded southward 
 to Fort Benton. Mr. Sullivan and 1 proceeded due west, nearly along the 49th parallel 
 to the Ciuefs Mountain situated on tiie boundary line. It would be needless to occupy 
 your time with a minute description of the country traversed by the 49th parallel of 
 latitude, between longitudes 109" W. and 113° 50' W. It is a level, sandy, arid plain, 
 the very iusigniticant tributaries to the south Saskatchewan were nearly dried np^ 
 appearing here and there in pools of water. The few swamps on which we were almost 
 wholly dependent for water, with a few exceptions, were brackish and impregnated with 
 sulphates, and the grass barely sutKccd to feed the liorses. 
 
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 PAPERS RELATIVE TO THK 
 
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 We crossed tlic mountains easily in 2.^ days from the place where we abandoned the 
 
 "onthelSthof Aii-,nist we arrived at two Kootanie tents. Those people 
 ,ws as well as oxen and horses, and had milk in nhiindaiu'e. \v e oxchan-ed 
 
 possessed 
 
 sonic tired 
 
 hol^s'wilh them; and tnuled a very loan yonn^ hnllock, as our prov.sions were nearly 
 
 Lhanst( 
 
 AIv ii 
 
 cows as 
 horses w 
 
 '"''""In'tention had been from this place to have turned to the northward, tullcwed up 
 
 we found the Indians very hadlv off for provisions, and the fishing unusually 
 
 In order to obtain a inore oMondod knowlod,u-o of the country, I bou.t^WU an Indian 
 canoe at this ])laco, and ongayod two Indians lo take me down the KMotanie River to the 
 Flat Bow Lake, thence into the Columbia llivor to Fort Colyile, leaving the men and 
 horses in charge of Mr. Sullivan, to jjrocoed by land lo Fort Col vile. 
 
 As the general course of tiio rivor now ran in a north-westerly tliroction, I was soon 
 in British territoiy again, aii.l arrived late in the evening of August 2'Jth, at a camp of 
 
 Flat Bow Indians. . , , . 
 
 These Indians, like the Paddlers, live by lishing, seldom hunt, nor UKieeil, is there 
 much to shoot in their countrv, save at a short period in the I'all of the yea.-, when they 
 are sometimes visited by wiliflowl in ,i!)uiidaiK'e. I killed a few ducks and geese which, 
 together with dry fish and fresh salmon, enabled my party to flue very well. On 4th 
 September, I arrived, early in the morning, at Fort Shepherd, on the Columlna, a day's 
 journey to the south of the Columbia Lakes. 
 
 This post of the Hudson's Bay Company on the right bank of the river, has been recently 
 built in expectation of the tinie'when the' American (iovernment will exclude them from 
 trading at Colvile. At present, there are no goods, nor is any trade carried on there. 
 The fort is about a mile north of tlie 49lh parallel, and about half a mile north of tiie 
 mouth of the Pendoreilles river, a tributary from the opjjosii.." side. 
 
 Here I first learned of the gold discoveries upon that ri>er, the Columbia river and 
 the Similkameen, where harvests as rich as those oi' Frazer and Thompson's rivers are 
 confidently expected. 
 
 On Monday the 6th September, I reached Colvile. Mr. Sullivan and the land party 
 had already arrived the day before. They had suffered severely from want of provisions ; 
 the berries which made into cakes, and wliieh are tiie princij)al food of these Indians, 
 had disagreed with them very nuich, and caused an attack of cramps in the stomach, 
 which gave them great uneasiness. The whole party were most liosj)itably received by 
 Mr. McDougall, a settler in Colvile valley j a little laudanum and brandy, with good 
 wholesome food soon restored them ail. 
 
 1 found the United States mail, via California about to start, time did not permit me a 
 fuller report of myself and my companions than my letter to the Colonial OHico, bearing 
 date 6tii September, 1859, which was confined altogether to the monetary matters of 
 the ex])edition. 
 
 On my arrival at Fort Colvile, a letter from Sir George Simj w n, Governor. of the 
 Hudson Bay Company 's territories, purporting to be a circular, and ;iddressed to George 
 Blenkiiisop, Esq. (offieer in charge of Fort Colvile) was read to uio, by which I learnt 
 with surprise, that all the engagements of the Hudson Bay Company, to furnish provisions 
 and necessaries to the expedition, as well as their undertaking to honour my drafts on 
 hem for wages of men, &c. had been retracted. 
 
 With respect to the monetary matters of the expedition, I understand that the 
 Hudson Bay Company are pressing at the Colonial OHice for payment of an account 
 amounting to 301'^/., but I cannot understand why the Hudson Bay Company have not 
 submitted that account to my inspection, previous to their demand for payment. 1 have 
 as yet, received only two priceil accounts of the Hudson Bay Company, each of which 
 I promptly paid by bills on the Paymaster General. 
 
 The incoi 
 the |iayment 
 Sinipson, vi/ 
 I am also fin 
 arc then i\n 
 Her .Majesty 
 and |)ievi()iis 
 Majesty's G( 
 of the expei 
 General. 
 
 In additio 
 have agreed 
 sent u|) the 
 sum due to 
 made out) ti 
 
 I am happ 
 searches froii 
 bitiou to roll 
 
 Mr. Bleuk 
 kindly undei 
 my bills on t 
 
 It gives in 
 Secretary, ?' 
 from Kdmon 
 Colvile, and 
 to this, I pi 
 49th paiallel 
 by reaching 
 119° 30' wi's 
 
 I shall n<: 
 as possible, ; 
 to him. 
 
 On nth 
 'MHli parallel 
 " the moutl 
 " Kootanie 
 " pleting till 
 " the valley 
 
 On 14tii'; 
 49th ))aralle 
 the lluilsoii' 
 Range at M; 
 
 I secured 
 own horses, 
 taking than i 
 and cariied ( 
 
 On the 17 
 first three r 
 their exact 1 
 1,100 feet, 
 where we ha 
 half a mile t 
 
 Sei)tembei 
 and pursued 
 this we had I 
 to horses, pr 
 6 P.M., whc 
 three miles. 
 
 Septembei 
 severe ; day 
 ward of last 
 then jumpiii 
 the Indian's 
 small swamp 
 of the mares 
 
EXPLORATION OF BRITSIH NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 11 
 
 t mailc by Sir (ieorge 
 
 lied to the expedition, 
 
 ■J'ii« p unpriced bills 
 
 I clii! n on tl - part of 
 
 'cy iiivu I'' II priced, 
 n oiico rci. iidinl Her 
 
 The inconvcnieiice of delay at present experienced by the I 'udson Hay Company in 
 the jtayiiient of their accounts, is entirely owint^ to an arrany n 
 Simpson, viz. ; — at each of the forts, where sii|)plies are li, ui 
 I am also tornislied with blank or unpriceil bills for my sittnai., • 
 are then forwarded to Sir (Jeorge Siinjjson, to be priced, an. 
 Her Majesty's Cjovernnient, the right of seeing those bilK iil'tei 
 and previous to their being paid; li>r this reason I have more tii 
 
 Majesty's Government, not to pay or allow to be paid, any sums ol inoney for th purposes 
 of the expedition under my conmuuul, save those drawn by myseli' on the l'jyma*ttr 
 General. 
 
 In addition to this obvious reason, there is another to be urged, vi/. — The Compat 
 have agreed to lake b.ick all the goods reinaiuing over anil above those that have bcciji 
 sent u|) the country for the use of the expeJilion, v. Iiieii will considerably reduce tfif 
 sum due to them, and enable me (when the Cr. as well as Dr. side of tlie account is 
 made out) to draw IJills on the Paymaster General for the balance. 
 
 I am happy to say that I have not met any inconvenience in the prosecution of my 
 searches from this point (Fort Col vile) in consequence of Sir George Simpson's prohi- 
 bition to render ua further assistance. 
 
 Mr. IJIenkinsop, the ollicer in charge of tlie fort is himself a merchant, and has most 
 kindly undertaken to iurnish us in i^vvvy way on his own private aceoimt, and accepts 
 my bills on the Faymaslor General, to defray the expenccs of the expeililion. 
 
 It gives me great pleasure to he able to inli)rm Her .Majesty's (ioverinnent:, that my 
 Secretary, Mr. Nullivan's, and my own endeavours to lind a route ])ri:elicable for horses 
 from Kdmontoii westward across the lioeky Moinilains, as far as the longitude of Fort 
 Colvile, and entirely within IJritish territory, have been perfectly successful. In addition 
 to this, I pursued my way f()r more tluin ,)() miles to the westward, still north of the 
 49tli parallel, until 1 arriveil and terminated my ex])lorations on the 11th of October, 
 by reaching the camj) of the United States Uoumlarv Commissioners in longitude 
 119° 30' w..' St. 
 
 I shall now endeavour to submit a detailed account of these explorations as briefly 
 as possible, also Mr. Sullivan's description of that portion of them which was entrusted 
 to him. 
 
 (^n 11th September I ilesi)atched J\Ir. Sullivan with (Jrdcrs to recommence on the 
 •MJth i)arallel at Fort Snephenl, there to "cross the (Columbia lliver, and proceed from 
 " the mouth of the 1 endoreiiles River in an ea>lerly direction to that point on the 
 " Kootanie lliver wheie our explorations terminated in the season of lS.3iS, so com- 
 " pleling the route across the country fiom the western base of the Rocky Mountains to 
 " the valley of the Columbia." 
 
 On 14th September I started myself for Fort Shepherd there to recommence on the 
 49th parallel, and endeavour to make my way to the westward until I fell on the trail of 
 the lluilson's Bay Company, which bears to the northward, passing over the Cascade 
 Range at Mansen's Mountain. 
 
 I secured the services of an old BlacUfoot half bred hunter together with two of his 
 own horses, widch were in much better condition tor the severe journey I was under- 
 taking than mine, and was accompanied also b;- an Indian ; we three started on horseback 
 and eariied our provisions on two pack horses. 
 
 On the 17th Septembi r w'e left Fort Shepherd, crossing a country of wooded hills, the 
 first three ranges of which we crossed without much diiiiculty. 1 could not ascertain 
 their exact height having no barometer, but they probably averaged between iSOO and 
 1,100 feet, We then camped on the edge of a small lake of an insignificant size, and 
 where we liad a suiliciency of water. To reach this lake I had to cross the 4^" N. about 
 half a tnile to the south. Distance made seven miles. 
 
 September 18th. — Started at 7 a.m. After breakfast returned a little to the northward 
 and pursued a western course through the hills. Latitude at noon 49° 0' 15" N. After 
 this we had to cut our way with axes through a country which, although not impassable 
 to horses, presented great difficulties in the accomplishment of a road. We worked till 
 6 P.M., when we camped, having found water but no grass for the horses. Made 
 three miles. 
 
 September I9th. — Breakfast early ; started at 7 a.m. ; the chopping and climbing very 
 severe ; day cloudy, could not take tlie latitude which fiom our course was to the north- 
 ward of last night's camj). We continued alternately chopping through 20 or 30 yards, 
 then jumping and driving up the horses, but before we arrived to where there wa.s grass 
 the Indian's horse fiiiled and could proceed no tiirther ; but soon after this we came to a 
 small swamp, wiiere by great exertion we brought and left him. In the afternoon one 
 of the mares rolled down a precipice, pack and all ; we climbed down and carried up her 
 
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 load, and by taking? a circuitous route bionplit licr up atjain. Hero llie Indian declared 
 lie could not .stand the work Ioniser; took oil liis coat and .sliirt (payment made in 
 advance lor the trip), tlu'ew them back to me ami de|)arted. Wc alhiwecl the hoise.< to 
 feed lor a short time, then descem'.cil a deep ravine, where we Ibuiid no grass lor the 
 iiorses. Here wc camped having' made four miles. 
 
 .September 2()th. — We breakfasted before sunrise, commenceil to chop throu.tjh the 
 fallen timlter, which was terrible; we had to ascend a mountain about 1, '.'00 fret high, 
 which was both steep, rocky, and ileiisely l>ileil with liilkii tindier; we reacheil the 
 summit a little after live; cauic down an easy descent ami along a valley, and camped 
 about 8 I'.M. MadeHve miles, lindiiig both grass ami water. Here our ludian rcturneil 
 tons; I received him kindly, restoreil his property, and he continued liiithful to mc 
 throughout. 
 
 September 21st. — Rained hard all night. The horses sufl'ered so much from want of 
 food that 1 determined to remain there a day to recruit them. Lat. l!»" 3' lu" N. 
 
 September SJnd. — Our labours not so severe ; the mountains not so steep, and the 
 fallen timber not so heavy as heretofore. Passed the hor.ses over one very bad place, 
 across a face of rock. This place at first apj^eared impassable for lioises, but by availing 
 ourselves of the slate shingle, which wc levelled with our hands, building it up in some 
 parts and rolling it over the precii)ice in others, we made a causeway aiul jiassed 
 triumphantly. Camped on a little tributary to the Columbia, calleil Sheep ilivcr. 
 Made seven miles. 
 
 September 2Jrd. — Wc had some dilUculty in crossing Shoop River, after which very 
 heavy timber to cut through. Found grass at noon. Camped ; made one mile, but 
 proceeded to chop for to-morrow's journey. I.at. ID" 2' 41" N. 
 
 September 'vJitli. — Crossed the second fork of. Slice]) River; ascendedabout l,l()i)feet 
 of mountain, very grassy in many })laces ; rode along the crest of the hill in a north- 
 westerly direction, aflerwards in a westeily. Maile nine miles, auil cami)cd at half-past 
 ibur p.m. Here there was grass but no water, l.al. 1!)" .V ID" X. 
 
 September U.Mli. — A good deal of chopping and clinibin:; in the latter part of the day, 
 but evidently the worst of thejoiu'iiey was then over. .Maile about nine miles. 
 
 Se|)temberfJ()lh. — Started very early. It had rained all niglit ; made more than three 
 miles before breakfast. Ourtourse continued to wind through a valley considerably to 
 the north of west, and then to a:;eend a grassy hill to the height of about !)0U teet. Pro- 
 ceeding along tbo cre.st of this hill for several miles, we at length came in sight of u lake 
 called by the Indians Lake N'iclielaam, to which they repair to fisii late in the autumn 
 from the south, and to which an Indian trail forks off from the Colvile roail. My 
 companions were greatly rejoiced to find themselves once nu)re within a mile or two of 
 a known piece of country. My two mares here broke down for want of food, want of 
 water, and the constant jumping over the fallen timber. One of them from the first start 
 was not previously in sufliciently good condition for the trip, the other, unfortunately, 
 owing to the constant jimiping, slung her foal ; we were obligeil to abandon them. We 
 had now but Pichena's two horses remaining, and we endeavoureil to descend the 
 mountain to the lake that evening. Not being able to accomplish this, we were obliged 
 to camp in the cliffs without water, and consequently without anything to eat; havung 
 nothing but flour we could not cook it. Made 11 miles. 
 
 September 27tli. — Since yesterday at 1 i'.m. our course has been S.W., reached tlie 
 southern extremity of the lake at half-past 8 a..m. Could not obtain tliu latitude at iioi»n. 
 It rained hard last night, snow fell in the mountains. 'I'his lake (Nichelaam) is about 
 7 or 8 miles long, and from '-'to 3]^ wide, surrouniled by mountains rising above its surfiice 
 from 700 to 1,1UU feet in height. After breakfiist, struck on an Indian trail, leadiu" 
 south, which we rightly guessed would take us out on the road to Colvile, distan't 
 about 50 miles. I determineil to go to Colvile, obtain more horses, amd return a<'ain to 
 the lake, from thence to renew my exploration to the westward, we camped at the Colvile 
 Road, which follows the Ne-hoi-al-i)it-kwu or Colvile River. About 8 miles S.K. from 
 the lake where we found good grass we encamped, cleared up at night, took observation 
 lat. 48° 57' 58" N., therefore southern extremity of lake is somewiiat about 4 or 5 miles 
 north of the line. 
 
 September 2Sth.— Started early, camped not far from Colvile. 
 
 September 2<Jth.— Crossed the Columbia River, reached Colvile at 8 a.m. 
 
 On the 5th October I again started from Colvile for Lake Nichelaam, accomnanicd by 
 two half-breeds and an Indian. ^ ^ 
 
 * * 
 
 October 7th.— Reached the southern portion of Lake Nichelaam, where I had left off 
 on September 27th ultimo. Took observation for latitude 49° 4' 30" N. 
 
 October S 
 carrying a c 
 meet u.s, u li 
 
 My reaso 
 country wit 
 very dense, 
 could spare, 
 a valley in t 
 view of prai 
 We commei 
 below the ^ 
 noon I detei 
 
 October 1 
 pit-kwu, am 
 wild ducks ( 
 further to S 
 rode into tli 
 day with tlu 
 
 I was grc 
 for latitude, 
 an Americai 
 north the ot 
 of results ca 
 which I beli 
 service. 
 
 I understi 
 snpjdied wit 
 visiting wei 
 experiv need 
 panieil by I 
 Topographi 
 them by the 
 society. I 
 for Englaiu 
 engineers ii 
 
 Having r 
 Cohnnbia ri 
 beg leave tc 
 starting poi 
 Rocky Moi 
 
 Sin, 
 
 Yofn 
 ex])lor(' the r 
 of till' tort, ii; 
 first sifjlit 1 w 
 
 I t)l'LC to SI 
 
 sUotcii map, ! 
 
 Oil Sl'lltCK 
 
 on tlie cveiiii 
 lO same tri 
 explore. Pr 
 quarters of a 
 joins tlio Col 
 procct'ded mi 
 liidian >j;ui(lc 
 till' valley, ai 
 point llic w! 
 Anicriean soi 
 
 The {jold 
 miners are oi 
 ppr day with 
 
 Tiicy arc ] 
 ."IS the aiisi'iu 
 neighbouriuf 
 
EXPLORATION OF BRITISH NORTH AMKRICA. 13 
 
 October 8tli. — Started on foot to ascend the liills, on tlio liills on tlio west of the I;ikc, 
 carryinji a couple of days provisions with lis, and sendinj? the horses round Uy tlie road to 
 meet us, u httle on the west side of norlli fork of the river. 
 
 My reasons in senthn;^' the horses round, were not because I deemed the section of 
 country with whicli I was enf,'!i;,'e4l impracticable for iiorses, but the falk-n timber was 
 very dense, and recjuirod more time to chop it tlirouj^h than I at that time thoiij^lit I 
 could spare. NVe had a great deal olscramblinf,' tilrouijrh this timlier, and passeil al'iif? 
 a valley in direction W.N.W., and !• r.M. readied a liei;^ht of land commaiuliiij; a line 
 view of prairie country, aUbidiiii^ a cimiec tor eoiitinuiiig a roail in several directions. 
 Wc eoininenced our descent to tiie S.W., came out on the Ne-hoi-al-int-kwu, a little 
 below the N. fork at I* a.m. 'I'lie horses arrived with my sextant at 11 a.m., and at 
 noon I determiiK d the lat. 40° '2' !J0" N. 
 
 October 11th. — Started early, |)ursninf? our western course again along the Ne-hoi-al- 
 pit-kwu, and shortly caught sight of a soldier in American miil()rm in piiiMiit of some 
 wilil ducks on the ri er ; he intiirmed me that the surveying party were camped a little 
 further to S.W. I' ilowiiig his directions, I soon came in sight of their observatory, and 
 rode into their cam)). I was most hospitably received, piessed to remain and pass the 
 day with tlietn, an invitation wliicli I gladly availed myself of. 
 
 I was greatly pleased with the instrument with which they carried on their obsirvations 
 for latilmle. 1 am not aware that the iiislriiment is known or used in Knglaiid. It is 
 an American invention called the zenith telescope, used in observing jiairs of stars (one 
 north the other south of the zenith) of nearly the same declination. A far greater number 
 of results can be obtained in a given period than by means of the transit iiiMtriiment, 
 which I believe (but I speak under correction) is the instrument generally used in our 
 .service. 
 
 I mulorstand there arc three parlies on the American Boundary Siirvev, each party is 
 i;„.i ...;.!. .... ,.K.,....-.,.. -.,.,,, ....t..!. .,.,.1 ..»,,.,....... ..I,.... '11. I r....r»i i r 
 
 them by the Colvilc road to the foit, ami enjoyed their frank hospitality and ino>i. agreeable 
 society. I could not learn nuicli resiiectiiig Colonel Hawkins, except that lie liad started 
 for England on a (piestion concerning tiic Island of .San Juan. Tlu party of our 
 engineers under his command have had a great many ditliculties to coiiten i with. 
 
 Having now terminated my account of the explorations cHected by myself fiom the 
 Columbia river westward to where the liUli parallel intersects the Cascade Range road, I 
 beg leave to subinit the report ot my Secretary, Mr. Sullivan's explorations from the .same 
 starting point on the Columbia River to the point where we returned to recross the 
 Rocky Mountains hi September 1S58. 
 
 Sin, I'ort Colviio, Octobor 1859. 
 
 Yot'n instniPtions of 8tli Scptpnilicr, IS;")!), diri-ctuig mo to start i'nmi Tort .SliophiTii, and 
 ex])U)ri' the n-jfidu ol' coniitiy to llic iiortliwanl of tlic -I'.itli parallel of noitli latitude, and to the eastward 
 of the fort, liavc liceii carried out, and I am rejoiced to say, with a result I'ar more satisfactory than at 
 first si<;ht I was led to aiitieijiate. 
 
 I hejj to suhiiiit for your information, the following detailed aocount of my branch expedition, also a 
 sketch niap, showiii;' the route we pursued. 
 
 On .September 11, I started from Fort Colvile, lat. 18' :37' 4f>" north, and arrived at Fort Shepherd 
 nn the evening of the l.'Uh At this place I engaged three baiiihk Indians, and despatciied two more of 
 lO same tribe in search of the only Indian who was said to know the country that 1 was about to 
 explore. Previous to starting also, I obtained ol».iervations for latitude, and found the fort to l)e three 
 quarters of a mile to the north of the frontier line; consecjuently the point at which the I'endoreilles 
 joins the Columbia River, is in Hritish territory. Having crossed the Columliia on the lijth, we then 
 proceeded u]) the valley of the IViidoreilles for twelve miles, and encamped to await the arrival of r-r 
 Indian guide. An observation at this place gave latitude 4'J 0' ;i(i" north. Six miles still further up 
 the valley, and wc struck the nmuth of Salmon Ixiver, a small tributary of the I'endoreillcs. Up to this 
 point the whole of the river valley is in IJritish dominion, but beyonil, the IViidoreilles is in 
 American soil. 
 
 The gold mines on this river arc at present confined to this small portion of the valley, and the 
 miners are engaged in mining the ilats and bars of the river only ; they reali/e from 15 to '20 shillinga 
 per day with the rocker, and from 3.j to 40 shillings with sluices. 
 
 They are jjrcvented from reaping rich harvests owing to the quantity of water in the stream, as well 
 as the absence of capital for the purposes of ditching and carrying water to advantageous places in the 
 neighbouring mountains. 
 
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 Vvnvv nrn«noi<t i« in favour of till' rounti-v lu-infi auvitVnnis ; the jruld becomes coarser the further 
 thrinhuM-n<lvance"'into the bod of the .-tremn, an.l the adjacent momitams possess every indication ot 
 
 coutainiiii; uold. .^^^^ ^^^^^^ .^^ j,|^,^^, ,,,.,f „ijt;,iiu'd lavjre dividends from vvorkiiur the mountains 
 
 ';i;'n i'/"hne not as'vel .ommenee.l oiieratious in the mountains of this ,,art of the eountry, but 
 " ' ;i,i i„. aiiinly repaid, were they ■•Mm their attention to tlie mines on the 
 
 of fall 
 
 from all aicouut- they won 
 
 ^'iSS' i'nlntion of the mines, provi^ons and "very otliev necessary brin- enormously lii-h nrices, 
 
 , , , uMi'e i-^ til it till' mini-v- here, uho are not ni possession ot more extensive means tor 
 
 mi.unu^han 1,'y tV.e eonminn rocker and shiiee, tiiul great dillieulty in d .in- more than ju.t to provide 
 
 for tlie iiassing day, 
 
 Till- 
 
 pold, that is, a miieh larj;er Diiiu o 
 
 "lighter" than Californian 
 
 .add foniid in this part of the eouniry is to use a miner s expression, », ,, . f 
 
 hu i'^ a mueh larger bulk of Tendoredle gold is reciuisite to weigh an ounce than that of 
 California, "indeed, 1 ha^e heard tliat Californimi gold is one-eighth luavier. 
 
 The bed rock on the I'endoreiUes, a^ well as that on liie t.olmnlna, beween Colvile and I'ort 
 Shei.herd, is a blue slate with a large admixture of (luart/, veins, liie mnnediately ..verlying voek 13 
 a very hard -rey .naiute. In manv places, miea is m great abundance, and up the baluion Kivor 
 
 especially, niua is 
 
 Liryelv distributed. 
 
 'biVour'arrival at tins "river, I " prospecte.r' myself in the stream and washed .mt 'J^./. in one pan 
 of dirt, and 2,1 in another. One of my Indians, nun-e lortunate than 1, picked up in the crevice ol the 
 rock, a niece of gold which valued ITis. (i-A ,. , , , .,.,,-, j 
 
 Here our inirtv experienced great dillicultv in pushing thrnngh the mas-es ot iallen tmibcr, and 
 den«e under-'rowth, which latter was so tiuhtly interlaced as Mhnost to defy the p.-wcr ol the axe 
 alton-ether My Indians were in favour ot iciuniuig to the lort, I t.-ld them tiiat it was my deter- 
 mination to advance, and at ,mce packed tiu- lu.rscs ^yilh all the jiriicles that were not absolutely 
 neces-arv for the journev, including aliont ball ilie provisions \Mtli «hicli we had letr fort Colvile, and 
 senttiieirt back to Fort 'Shepherd under the charge of a liali-biveik wtio was mining at the mouth of 
 the Salmon River. Then, dividing the remainder of our ]lrovi^i(ms ;ind baggage into as many parcels 
 as there were iieople in the partv, 1 told the Indians that both Mr. .Margary and I. intended to 
 carry the same weight as thev, so that the Mioiier we started the sooner the journey would be done. 
 
 Mr. iNIarn-arv, tlie ixciitleniini belonging In the Hudson .Jay Company's service, whom Mr. lilcnkinsop 
 had (lesireif should aecompanv me, was of great assistance on this as well as on many subsecpient 
 occasions; he exphuned to the Indians my ileterininatieii, and took to his pack as cheerfully as he 
 would have done to a more pleasanl occnp.uiiin. ,,.,,,, , , , „ 
 
 It wa- with rchictance at very best, thai the Imlians billowed our examples ; at length, all our 
 loads strapped, we forced our wi"y through the wood-, and enjoyed a good supper and a most com- 
 fortabic night's rest at the forks of Salmon river. . ,, . 
 
 It would be iieedle-s to journal the .leeount of each day's march here, and it will sullice to inform 
 you, that in five days from this point, by I'oUdwing the more easternly branih of the Sahuoii Kiver 
 we had attained the summit of the dividing ridge between the Cohnnl>ia and the Kootanie, or Flat 
 Bow River, at an elevation of l-'itm ft>ct ai)ove Fcnt Shepherd. An observation for latitude here, 
 assured us that we were still in llrilish territory, it being 4',i .V'J-i" north, and judging from our course, 
 I consider, that we did not diji to the south of the 4',itli parallel throughout tlii' whole of the distance 
 from Fort Shepherd to the height of land. 
 
 The ascent to reach this highest point of the dividing ridge is very gentle, and there is not the 
 slin^htest obstacle to jirevent the accomjdi-hment ol' an excellent road. The descent, on the contrary, 
 to 'the stream which is tributary to the Kootanie or I'lat J5o\v Ri\cr, is rather abrupt, but fortunately 
 it is only for about J'.OU feet, when the river v.illey is reached. 
 
 At the height of land I was in Impes that ve iiad stiiick an Indian trail, when suddenly our guide 
 informed me that we had been travelling for the la-t hair-liour. not upon an Indian, but a carrihanif 
 road, and that now we \vere forced to leave it t'arribiculs freijuent tiiis part of the country in large 
 numbers, as the woods are traversed by their beaten j>atlis. 'I'hey are induced to \isit this tract of 
 country hi order to feed upon a very large leaf which grow.-i in great abundance on the moist lands 
 high up in the moiuitains. 
 
 From this place a most extensive view of the country was obtained; the rugged mountains to the 
 south-eastward, which border the right bank of the Peiuloreilles in the American territory, rising to 
 uH elevation of about 'JoOo feet, and clothed to their summits by dense pine forests, seemed to bid 
 no hopes to strangers passing there; while the gentler undulati.nis from the Columbia valley up to 
 this point, oll'ercd no inijiediiiieiit bnl those resulting i'roin decaying masses of vegetation, the young 
 scrub pines which had risen on their nuns, and the stunted undergrowth; obstacles which disappear 
 entirely before the woodman's axe. 
 
 On September 2t lb, we made a very long and tedious journey in our descent towards the Flat Bow 
 Lake, crosshig and re-crossing the stream to avoid fallen timber, and such obstacles as could ,he 
 avoided at the expenee of a little wetting, which, eonsidering rlie (niantity of rain that fell for a 
 few days previous, was productive of little iiiconvcnienee. At nightfall of this date, the rain com- 
 menced in earnest, we were very comfortalile however, having constructed an excellent shelter with 
 the branches of the ''-dar, and being provided with as much vvdod as we v.cre disp sed to burn. 
 
 On the iiCth September we arrived at the Flat How Lake, and an observation showed us to be in lat 
 49' 1;J' 7'' N., or 1,5 miles to the north of the bduiidary line. We were all glad to have come to iho 
 end of our journey, (as far as walking was concerned,) for we were all more or less fatigued, and needed 
 mocassins. 
 
 I should remark here, that that jiicec of country extending from the summit of the dividing ridgo to 
 the shores (if the Flat Row Lake, ineseiits nnich greater dilliculties than the slo|)c towards the west; 
 but at the same time I consider that with a sullieii'iit number of men for the purjiose of clearing, and 
 the time necessary for micIi an undertaking, 1 ini;;ht have Mieeeeded in luaking a verv practicable trail 
 for my horses. The greatest obstacles ihrouglioul the road from Ft. Slie|)herd, eastward to the Flat 
 
 Bow L.ikc, is 
 
 cniiiifn/ ii'iis ('/ 
 
 The land ti 
 the distance ( 
 extend along 
 current in thi 
 with wild dm 
 the fall of till 
 
 From tliesi 
 artiide that si 
 them to otliei 
 
 As soon as 
 inquired as t( 
 the country t 
 
 Ry referrii 
 road as " Ko( 
 out of use, it 
 precipitoin n 
 a desire to tr 
 Kootanie chii 
 •' cut throng 
 " camp lire 
 " blocked u] 
 
 The next 1 
 Indians desei 
 
 I made a f 
 horses, and tl 
 Lake, and su 
 provisions wi 
 which I turr.i 
 
 At 110011 01 
 miles, crosse( 
 day, having 1 
 
 I'ursuing ( 
 map as '• ^Ir 
 nightfall in a 
 
 The fidlow 
 we were acci 
 fnmi obtainii 
 or two miles 
 
 Ry rcferet 
 " Practicable 
 the country 
 and which ' 
 dominion, as 
 Indeed, the 
 shapes, the 1 
 mountain, ar 
 many ways. 
 
 On the ev 
 south, and p 
 bank. 
 
 October 
 offering no o 
 camping phi 
 this part in 
 of them had 
 were keepin; 
 
 October G 
 for latitude 
 to the niu'tli 
 most eastern 
 Flat Row R 
 
 Our Koot 
 from the cro; 
 at tlie small 
 of five miles 
 border the 1 
 broail open 
 
 Up to th 
 country ; a ; 
 Indeed, in tl 
 concerned, I 
 comparative 
 Lake and th 
 
EXPLORATION OF BRITISH NOR'I'II AMERICA. 
 
 15 
 
 ///(' triinrsf iif f/iiK /n'lrc of 
 
 Bow Lake, is fallpii tiiiibiT: and >rroat advantapfos for a road exist, .siiii-f 
 roiiiifri/ inis flf'ci->nl. In/ //(»• r il/r/fi of fir:> r/i-crs^ ffi'' ir/m/r (if f/ir inn/. 
 
 Tlio land to tin- soutiuvard of flic Flat I5ou Lake is Hat and ,s\vaipi|iy, and ])r('si'r\cs this ciiaractor to 
 tlio distance oClT) mill'.-, to tlic sontli-castuard of its southern cxtrcniitv, when* a rani'C of nuunitaina 
 extend aloiiir tiie course of the Kootanic liivcr, and ])revents its continuation. 'I'iie ri\('r itself has no 
 current in this part of its course, and on either hanlc tlieri' are innncrous sloughs and s\vam])s teeming 
 with wild ducks, jreese, and other aijualie hirds, tli.it make tluv-e marshy lan<ls a special reiidezvoud in 
 the fall of the year, when they d(>s( rr the less <;-enial climate of the north. 
 
 From these swamps also, the Kootanic; Indians obtain the klusquis or thick reed, whicli is the oidy 
 article that serves them in the cou: truction of their lod<;cs, and the klusquis is an article of harter with 
 them to other tribes wliose lands do not produce this necessary. 
 
 As soon as we arri\e(l at the lake we were met by the Kootanies, and treatc(l ver\- hf]Spital)lv. 'I'liey 
 inquired as to the oiqcct of our visit, and furnished me with a hu>;e amount of inl'ormati(jn relative to 
 the country to the eastward. 
 
 l?y referrins to the sketch map aceompanyinff my letter, you will ob-:erve that 1 have laid oown a 
 road as "Kootanic 'I'rail to the Cohuubia Lakes (.Mbandouc-d).'' 'I'his ro.id has been for many years 
 out of use, it is altogether in Hrilisb territory, but accordinnj to the accounts of the Indians, twovery 
 pceciiiitoiH mountains have to be crossed before aniviugat the oriiiin of ilie L'ohuubi;i river. I expressed 
 a desire to travel this road, and was assured that at present it is entirely impracticable for horses. I'lio 
 Kootanie chief said, "if you take all the youiin' men of my tribe and furnish tlicni with axes, they will 
 " cut throush but a very small )iiece in a day, your camp lire of one night will bo in sight of your 
 " cam]) lire the night following: the fallen tindier is too bad, the trail that once was clear is now 
 " blocked u]) by reason ot'the tires." 
 
 The next road laid down, and which I have called "' Mr. .Sullivan's Trail," is the one which the 
 Indians described as very jiracticablc, and which, for many reasons, was the one adopted. 
 
 I mad(> a few jiri'sents to the chiel's ami iirinci]ial nun. and obtained from them the loan of (bur 
 horses, and the services of two young men as guides. Om- .Sauihk Indians we left at the I'lat How 
 Lake, and supplied them with ;inununition with w liich to suj)port themsehcs during our absence. Our 
 provisions were very small, consisting of ;5oll)s. of ihuu', (all my meal had been consumed,) 1 jibs, of 
 which I tin-i;cd o\er to the two Kootanies, and retained 1/Jlbs. lor Mr. Margary and myself. 
 
 At noon of ,'^e])tember ,'Jo|h, we lelt I'lat Iiow Lake, and kee[)ing a south-easterly course for a few 
 miles, crossed tht> Kootanie Uivcr in lat. -1!) [V (>" X. by observation, and ciicamjicil here for a whole 
 day, having lost one of the horses. 
 
 I'ursuing om- south-easteinly course for about nine mile-, we struck thi> road laid down in the sketch 
 ma]) as '• Mr. Sidlivan's tr.iil, " and after making an ascent of "itm feet, we descended and encamiied at 
 nightfall in a small iiraiiie all'ordiiig excclleul water and gra~s for our horses. 
 
 The f(dlo\ving nuM-ninj;- our horses li;id strayed liackwards on the track towards the Kootanie camp, 
 wc were accordingly delayed from starting till '_' ji.m. The day was cloudy, so that I was j)revente(l 
 from obtaining the latitude, but from in\- dead reckoning 1 consider that oiu'cncamianent was about one 
 or two nules to the north of th(> IDtli j)arallcl. 
 
 I?y reference again to the sketch ma]), you will observe that there is a tract of country indicated by 
 " Practicable Trail." I wish to ren.ark that this trail is imt really in existence, Imt from the nature of 
 the coinitry 1 am inclined tobilieve that a road may be made in that direction with no degree of trouble, 
 and which woidd have the material advantage of throwing the whole road altogether into Ib'itish 
 domiinon, as well as the secondary advantage of escaj)ing the ascent of aUO feet alluded to above. 
 Indeed, the mountains here may be iicnetrate<l in many directions: they do not assume impracticable 
 shapes, the highest does not exceed '_'(Hi(i feet, many do not attain the altitude deserving the apjiellation 
 mountain, ancl their gently sloping sides with wide valleys between, seem to oiler facilities for roads in 
 many ways. 
 
 On the evening of the 4th of October, wt; struck a tributary to the Kootaine River, going off to the 
 south, and i)roceeding a little distance up the stream, we encanqicd on a iiiie ])rairie close to its right 
 bank. 
 
 October ."ith we were oil" before suiu'ise, and followed u]) the stream through a most beautiful valley, 
 offering no obstacles whatever to our ])rogrcss, water and line grass e\erywhere, and wt- ])assed the best 
 Cami)ing j)laccs that I have seen to the west of the Jiocky Mountains. The Kootanie Indians resort to 
 this ])art in search of licaver and carrilio'ufs, and from the indications at tln'ir old eami>s, a large j)arty 
 of them had ])icecded us by alxuit four or live days. An observation for lalituile showed us that we 
 were kee])iug to the north of the frontier line, being lat. 4!)^ C 48" N. 
 
 October Gth we reached tlu' highesl [-.oinl since leaving the Flat V>«w Lake. At noon an observation 
 for latitude was 49' \b' 14" N., and at our night camp ot this date we were at least 10 nules still further 
 to the northward, for we made a very long jourm^v froro our dinner camp. Here we had arrived at the 
 most easternly of the two small lakes from which the tributary stream issues to join the Kootanie or 
 Flat Bow Uiver. I estimate the elevation to be ;5;50O feet above Fort Sheiilierd. 
 
 Our Kootanie gindes now gave us the wi'icomc intelligence that wc were oidy one day's journey 
 from the crossing place on the Kootanie Ui\cr, where the Indians traverse the stream on their road to trade 
 at tlie small Kootanie post situated near the wcstcin base of the Ifocky Mountains, and at the distance 
 of five miles to the south of the 4'Jlh jiarallcl. 1 ascended a moiuitaiii and saw the heights wdiich 
 border the right bank of the Kootanie Iviver, and I estimated the distance at 12 miles, to which point a 
 broad open valley extends without any obstruction. 
 
 Up to this point, since leaving the Flat How Lake, we had travelled a most practicable piece of 
 country ; a good horse trail exists, ami with the greatest ease a waggon road may he .iccomplishcd. 
 Indeeil, in the event of the re(piirenients of ccnumerce, as far as my ex])erieiice of the mountains is 
 Concerned, 1 could not point out so extensive tract of country where a railway may be brought with 
 comj)aratively so small exiicnse. Then- is lu) one jjlace on the whole of the trail between the Mat Bow 
 Lake and the borders of the Kootanie or Flat Bow Uivcr, where a sudden ascent of 150 loot is requisite. 
 
 li 4 
 
 a: 
 
 
 '} 
 
 '4 
 
 i ' 
 
 II 
 
16 
 
 PAPERS RELATIVE TO THE 
 
 a 
 
 / 
 
 m 
 
 i 
 
 The whole aspcnt to the two lakes is small and very gradual, and the valley of the tributary river is 
 ^rid_e open aiid flat. _^._,__ ___, ,„,, „„;„„, ^^ j,,„,„ j„.„ ^^^^,_ „„,] fi,^ Indians told us that 
 
 across 
 
 Our provisions were entirely exhausted on our arrival at these two lakes, and the Indians told us 
 '•or the next dav's journey on to the Kootanie Kivcr, a large quantity of burnt timber was lying ac 
 'the road, and there wasupossibiUty on this account that we .hould require two days to cut our way 
 through, but they assured me at the same time that it was only timber that would be troublesome to us, 
 nothing beside lay in our way. 
 
 Great dependence, as you 
 Kootanies never steal, rarely H 
 tribes among whom our travels have led us. 
 
 tning Dcsuic lay 111 our wiiy. r *« •„ *-:u„. tu« 
 
 Great dependence, as you are aware, can be placed on the word of an Indian of this tribe: the 
 ^nfnnio, novpr stPRl. rarelv He. and are decidedly the best converts to Christianity of all the Indian 
 
 I was very reluctant to abandon this 12 miles of country, but under the circumstances there remained 
 but one alternative, viz., to retrace our steps. 
 
 We had been living on two meals a day on the upward journey, and as our Inihans were certainly 
 cifted with most extraordinary appetites, their small supply of flour was soon consumed, and they made 
 demands on our own little store, wliieh we could have easily managed without their assistance, feo now 
 we were entirely dependent on tlie few small pine pheasants wiiicli chance might throw in our way. 
 
 I should certainly not have returned were it not that I was thoroughly convinced of the entire 
 practicability of a road from that point on the Kootanie River, where the expedition penetrated in 
 September 1858, right up to Fort Sliepherd in the valley of the Columbia, more than threc-tourths of 
 which might be rendered available for a railway, and considering the stupendous triumphs of engineering 
 art in modern times, I should be sorry to add that the remaining fourth is beyond the bounds of 
 
 practicability. , ,„^, , ,./..wi . 
 
 We returned to the Flat Bow Lake on the 10th of October very hungry, having fasted two days, and 
 found our Sanihk Indians anxiously awaiting us. The following day I hired two bark canoes, crossed 
 the Flat Bow Lake, descended the Kootanie River, from thence into the Columbia, and arrived at Fort 
 Colvile on 15th October. ^ . „ 
 
 In conclusion, I beg to express my sincere thanks to Mr. ]\Iargary for his most friendly society and 
 cheerful assistance throughout a trip which I shall ever remtMiiber with unspeakable pleasure, and I 
 trust that hereafter I may hear of him occupying a high position in the service of tlie Hudson Bay 
 Company, for which both by his intelligence, energy, and management of Indians, he is eminently 
 
 fitted. 
 
 I have, ire. 
 Capt. J. Palliser, (Signed) JOHN W. SULLIVAN, 
 
 Commanding Expl. Exp., Secretary. 
 
 &c. &c. &C. 
 
 The wliole of the country which I have travellcil from the Columbia to the westward 
 is auriferous ; there was liardly a creek of any importance in wliich more or less gold 
 cannot be washed. This has rendered the prices for all articles of clotliing, food, &c; 
 enormous, as you will see hy glancing over the accounts for the articles fiirnislied to tlie 
 expedition on tlils side of the mountains. Flour is now '2l. IJs. a bag of lOU lbs. and 
 I'ork 2*. llrf. per lb. Articles of clothing and food are the only pay with which you can 
 engage Indians for a journey. Money cannot circulate in the country owing in a great 
 measure to the absence of coin. 
 
 Horses which I had been led to suppose would have fetched a high price in this part 
 of the country, change hands at exactly one third of their value east of the mountain. 
 The American soldiers brought up a large number here (having been eHjiecially allowed 
 to do so) ; after their arrival, being compelled to sell, horse, saddle, and bridle went together 
 for 5/., the price of a new Spanish saddle ! 
 
 Under such circumstances, it was utterly impossible to form even an approximate 
 estimate of the expenses that I have since been obliged to incur. But I can only say, that 
 I have always endeavoured and will always continue to confine the expenditure of public 
 money within the smallest limits. 
 
 Gold commences to be found abundantly on the Sjmilkameen ; all tiiose tiiat come 
 from thence seem imjjressed with the idea that it exists in great abundance somewhere in 
 the mountains surrounding its source. A man who airived here only yesterday informed 
 me that he had washed out 2 ounces of gold dust in one forenoon. I regret that I have 
 neither time nor funds to make a tour through the valley of the Similkameen. I am credibly 
 informed that it abounds in tine timber, and a most fertile soil, and is a far more eligible 
 place for settlers than the valley of the Columbia. 
 
 If I may venture an opinion concerning a piece of country, over which I have not 
 myself travelled, also concerning which 1 can oidy speak fiom collected information, I 
 would suggest that the easiest way to open :i road in the west of this country from the 
 sea would be from Fort Hope to follow up the valley of the Fiaser Uiver, thence a little 
 south of Shooshewap Lake to the Great Okanagan, jKssing on cither side of that lake, 
 
 and thence to the western shore of the move northern of the CoUnnbia lakes, probably 
 latitude .'50° '20' N. about, A .steamer down the Columbia -lakes would cornicct t.... 
 road with the soiitli extremity of the lakes, only a very short distance, say 1.5 miles, 
 from the line of country already explored and described in Mr. Sullivan's report. 
 
 m 
 
 his 
 
 One object 
 advantages to 
 mountain do\> 
 
 Should sue 
 would be to a 
 Trail, which i 
 Skagit River, 
 the valley alo 
 explorations. 
 
 I hope, ho> 
 by this time 
 question. 
 
 Snow has c 
 the directions 
 to a close. I 
 travel on hor;^ 
 oouver, wliert 
 nuinicating m 
 for balance of 
 
 Her Majesi 
 for 
 
 Copy oI 
 
 My Loitn Di 
 In ref 
 attention to t 
 that we have 
 Mountains t( 
 
 I did not I 
 longitude, be 
 bearing away 
 words, .Mr. > 
 Pass of the li 
 the cascade 
 
 This Hud 
 (on the wes 
 neighbourhot 
 aware of thi; 
 Palmer, R.lv 
 way from Fi 
 to cross the 
 attended mo 
 knowledge, v 
 Hudson's B: 
 Lieutenant V 
 
 Although 
 covcreil fron 
 moreover ent 
 I think it lai 
 a series of al 
 
 Dr. llecto 
 prematurely 
 his way thro 
 four miles a 
 accompunyin 
 
EXPLORATION OF BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 17 
 
 One objection to this line of route would be tlmt it would not aftbid as manv 
 advantages to agricultural settlers as one passing the Cascade Range over or near .Maiisen's 
 mountain down into the Similkaineen valley. 
 
 Should such a very arduous undertaking he atten)|)ted, the best course frou) Fort Hope 
 would be to ascend the valley of the Kleh-Kwuunuin till you fall on the \\hatcouib 
 Trail, which you follow up for a short distance, leaving this to pursue the vailey of the 
 Skagit River, cross the niouutains there to the head waters of the SimilUaineeu, and down 
 the valley along the Hudson's Bay Company Trail to the western extremity of our 
 explorations. 
 
 I hope, however, to obtain additional information from Doctor Hector, whom I expect 
 by this time to have arrived at Vancouver, after having traversed the country in 
 question. 
 
 Snow has commenced to fall, the season of 1850 is terminated, and in conformity with 
 tlic directions of Her Majesty's Government, I am drawing the affairs of tiie cxpcilitiou 
 to a close. I shall start, accompanied by Mr, Sullivan, next week for tiie ')ailcs; we 
 travel on horseback a journey of about lil days, thence we shall take the sleauK-r for Van- 
 couver, where I hope to meet Dr. Hector. I shall then have the honour of again c im- 
 nnuiieating with Her Majesty's Government, and shall draw on the Paymaster General 
 for balance of salaries, homeward expenses, &c. 
 
 I have, &c. 
 
 Her Majesty's Secretary of State (Signed) JOHN I'ALLISKIJ, 
 
 lor the Colonies. 
 
 
 Commanding Exploring Expedition. 
 
 1 . 
 
 ~4 ^ 
 
 No. k 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 Copy of a LETTER from Captain I'ai.mskr to Her Majesty's Puincipal 
 
 SECUIiTAUY Ol StATK FOIl lilt; Coi.ONIKS. 
 
 o my letter or 'Jifii i.»ctouer ^^■>I>, i oeg leave to draw your i.i races 
 as one of the residts ol' the expeililiou under my command, viz., 
 ed in finding a way from Rcil River Soltlement across the llocUy 
 outh of Eraser River, entirely within Hritish teriilory. 
 
 London, July S, lS()i). 
 My Loud Duki:, (UucuivLd July lo, imi) 
 
 In reference to my letter of 'i2d October 185!), I beg leave to draw your Grace's 
 attention to this fiict, as one of the residts ol' the 
 that we have succeetlei 
 Mountains to the mou _ , 
 
 I did not deem it necessary to prosecute the exploration f'urther than 11!)"' of west 
 longitude, because in that neighbourhood I fell upon the Hudson's IJay Company's track, 
 bearing away over Mansen's Mount, altogether north of the bountiaiy hue ; in other 
 words, .Mr. Sullivan and I explored and discovered a route connecting the Kauana-^kis's 
 Pass of the Rocky Mountains with that i)oint on the Hudson's Bay Company's trail over 
 the cascade range, from which that trail passes, altogether througii British territory. 
 
 This Hudson I5ay trail, which is used f()r luinging in siip])lies from Fort Langley 
 (on the west coast) to C'olviKi, crosses the boundary line for the flist time in the 
 neighbom-hood of the Lesser Okanagan Lakes, in long. 11!)" 10' W. Teii^ already 
 aware of this fiict, and being subse(piently confirmed in this opinion by Lieutenant 
 Palmer, R.E., who maile a reconnaissance of the Huds in's Bay Company's trail all the 
 way from Eraser River to Fort Colvde, I ilid not think it necessary or justifiable 
 to cross the Cascade Range so late in the season; such a ciuuse wouhl h:ive been 
 attended most ])robably with the loss of all the horses, ami no liirther iuerease of 
 knowledge, with regard to this old established trail, than that already known to the 
 Hudson's Bay Company, and already supplied to Her .Majesty's Government by 
 Lieutenant Palmer. 
 
 Although I consider this fact established, viz., that a line lor a route has been dis- 
 covered from Red River Settlement to the west coast of the continent, and that line 
 moreover entirely within British territory, yet 1 wish distinctly* to be under.stood that 
 1 think it far from being the best that coidd be diseovered. Time ilid not admit of 
 a series of attempts in a more northendy direction. 
 
 Dr. Hector's explorations, when within (iO miles of his exit on Thompson's Riv(M-, was 
 prematurely close(l by the advance of winter and the absence of provisions, while forcing 
 his way through tind)er so thick that he could not penetrate liister than from three Ij 
 four miles u day, and for a more detailed accoiuit of which I refer you to his report 
 accompanying this letter. 
 
 C 
 
 ' ^'- ' 
 
 H 
 
 ■:i 
 

 1 
 
 ! I 
 
 a 
 
 f 
 
 ! % 
 
 18 PAPERS RELATIVE TO THE 
 
 riio qiiaiitilv of territory cast of the Rocky >Ioiitit;\ins explored by tlic expedition in 
 
 tlic Hvisoti of 18.)') was so lar.ue 
 
 tlial 
 
 \cr 
 
 liUlr tmu' iomaiiK'd 
 
 the further ])rosc- 
 
 c'litioii of our scarchi-s to tlic westward of tlic C'oliiniljia River, in a country where 
 winter advances very rajjidly. 
 
 I very nnieh retirelte'l thit time did not enaiiie me to recc.mneiHe at the forks 
 of the Colunil'ia and McCiilhvray's lliver, and in a canoe to ascend the Columbia, said 
 to be navin-able for steamers all the way up to the great Colinn'Ma Lakes, to a large 
 table land,°alon<i which it is .ihUI that horses may travel, pas-;n'V ( ither north or south 
 ol' the (ireat Okanagan Lake to the iiirks ol' the Fraser and Thompson's Rivers. I 
 only speak of the natural advantai'cs vX tiiis line of route fiom hearsay, but my 
 informants were an intelligent ollicer i.f the Hudson's Ray Company, Mr. McDonnell, 
 who was for many vearsin'that country, ;dso several hall-breeds wiio iiave travelled there 
 with horses and nudes. I iiave already alluded to this jjrojjosed route at the termination 
 of mv letter dateil 'J'2d October IS,''!). 
 
 'liie connexion oi' tiie Saskatchewan 1 lains east of the Rocky Mountains with a known 
 route 10 I'ritish Columbia may be considered as the la-t of the results of the 
 
 expedition. 
 
 1 shall ;ow give but a slight sketch oi'oiu' joiu'ney to Vancouver's Island, as it was 
 through American territory. We started fioni Fort Colvile on 'id Xovember 1850 with 
 horses. Although the road is quite as good, and betier than many in civilized countries, 
 vet the conntrv beyond the innnediate valley of the Cohnnbia at Fort Colvile is quite 
 misettled, an iwe iiail to carry our jirovisions along witii us, and continued, as we had 
 hitherto tlone, to camj) out at night. 
 
 We assembled at Colvile (after the terniinali. n of our several branch expeditions), in 
 lat. iS° ;37' X., long. llS" W. Fort Colvile is situated on, perhaps, the only spot 
 favourable to agriculture for many miles of country through which that ri\er flows, being 
 an alluvial tongne of laud formed by a bend of the river. Many emigrants came over 
 some vears ago from \\ci\ River under the erroneous impression that there was un.ieh land 
 in that counlrv available ti)r the purposes ol'agriculliire ; they were, however, disappointed, 
 ami wandered in se.uc'i of land soulhernly. a few only setlluig on a tributary of the 
 Cohnnbia, the valloy of which alU)rds a narrow strip of aralile land for about M miles 
 south-east of Co'vile. i he rest finally settled at U alia Walla on the Wilhamct valley. 
 
 The discoveries of gold on ibc iMmilkameen has raised the i)riee of ])rovisions very 
 considerably ; antl tliat, with a large camp of American troops, render tiie supply very 
 inailecpiate to the large demand upon its produce. Conse(iuently large trains of American 
 waguous ply u]) and down between the Colvile camp and the nearest ])oiuts on the 
 Columbia accessible for steamers, which vary acconiing to tiie state oi the water. Since 
 the di>eo*ery of gold on the Sini;Il<ameen, the mities on Claim's Fork, discovered in liS5'.2, 
 have III en comparativily deserted ; some few miners still remain there, however. The mines 
 on Clark's Fork have this disadvanlage, from the steej) and rocky nature of the banks it is 
 diHictdt to gain access to the betl of the river irom which ihegold is procured. A project 
 therefore has been for some time in contemiilation, vi/., to cut oii'all the water from the 
 rivi'r, a.nd send it into the Spokan by mtans of a canal rnnning in a southernly tlirectioii 
 to a point on the Spokan, where these two rivers are only .'JJ miles apart. This is a 
 ))roject on a scale worthy of Calilbrnia, but at presi'iil far be\ond tlie means of settlers 
 a' d miners in the eoiuitry. 
 
 On 'Jd Noveml:er we commenced our joiu'rii.y lioii.cward, our parly (piite assuming 
 tiie (limiu^ions of a caravan, as we were accompanied by the fuuily of Mr. Rlenkinsop, 
 under the charge of his second in commaml, Mr. 3Iargary. We followed the waggon 
 road, which has been constructed at great expense for tiie use of the American army. 
 If kavcs ;lie Columbia at first loilowing the course of .Mill Creek ; the first tiO miles lay 
 through magifificeut f()rest, composed of the " piinis ponderosa," a tree which stands free 
 ot' underwood, uniil crossing the Spokan, wlien we (iileri I the (ireat Cohunbian Desert. 
 'i'liis tiistrict of country, extending for about iHo miles, i composed of tabular flows of 
 basalt, covered with lyose sr.ndy soil, sup|iortiug a scanty growth oi' bunch grass. So 
 little feeil is the re, that in crossing this tilain corn is always carried (iir the use of the 
 animals. Water is only to be f()Uudatlong intervals, and there is hardly any wooii, a want 
 which is severely liLdt by the traveller, as there is no " hois do vach'es" to supply its place. 
 
 After crossing Snake River, tiie southern branch of the Cohnidiia, a swift and magnificent 
 river a hall a mile wide, and flowing through a wonderful rei t in the basaltic rocks, 
 which form these plains, we arrived at Walla Walla, where (here is a large garrison ol' 
 Americiiii licups. Here we v.ere kin lly eiilcriair.ed by Caj l. Dent, the oilieer miiu- 
 niaiuiiiig, and the other oliicers attached to the division, li is necessary to keej) this 
 
 large corp 
 
 Indian tri 
 
 American; 
 
 repulse in 
 
 during a c 
 
 travelling 1 
 
 wit!) the w 
 
 attempt to 
 
 where we 
 
 We acc(] 
 
 whom we I 
 
 Columbia 
 
 steamer, w 
 
 arrival the 
 
 We wer< 
 
 books, inst 
 
 the neighl 
 
 schooner \\ 
 
 one of our 
 
 the prevail 
 
 It was m 
 
 I determim 
 
 Des Chute; 
 
 In order 
 
 maps, instri 
 
 should reti 
 
 baggage in 
 
 most wretc! 
 
 Indians de 
 
 uj)per watei 
 
 Of these 
 
 and at best 
 
 the l)es( h 
 
 after rinmii 
 
 river lo slei 
 
 timber on i 
 
 l)ush on far 
 
 At the 
 and the coi 
 distance be 
 American 
 into rapids 
 steamer at 
 is construct 
 end of the 
 It may n 
 ward joinni 
 gat ion, con 
 mouth it is 
 a boarded 
 second ste; 
 steep wagg(| 
 distance of 
 steamer hov 
 her while t( 
 the nu)utli 
 lor a coiisid 
 Priest's Ra) 
 that a stean 
 nagan is a I 
 tiie navigat 
 Colvile thei 
 Pendoreille 
 
EXPLORATION OF BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 19 
 
 larfie corps at Walla Walla, in order to protect tlio .settlers from the incursions of the 
 Indian tribes on the border, wiio in tiiis part o! the; country ar^' hostile towards the 
 Americans. Only a few years aj^o a party of American troops experienced a severe 
 repulse in the neighbouriiooil of tlie S|)okan Uiver, whieli, liowever, was amply avenged 
 during' a eamj)aign of the ensuing sunniu r. ^\ e had exj)erienccii very severe weather in 
 travelling to this place, l)ilter cold, accompanied with heavy liills of snow ; this, together 
 with the want of fixxl, had so reduced our horses, that we wcro strongly advised not to 
 attempt to proei'ed any iarther with them, as there was much high ground to be crossed, 
 where we might be delayed by deep snow. 
 
 We accordingly left them in the hands of an agent for sale, dismissi\ig the only man 
 whom we had brought down from C'olvile, and proceeiling to old Walla Walla on the 
 Colmnbia River, distant 3U miles. We had liopetl to avail ourselves of the American 
 steamer, which plying between this point and the Des Chutes, but unfortunately on our 
 arrival the agent informed us that she had blown up. 
 
 We were now very much perplexed to know how to proceed with all our luggage, 
 books, instruments, itc, down the Columbia ; there were no boats, nor any Indians in 
 the neighbourhood. At length some Imlians arrived with the intelligence that a 
 schooner \'vas making its way up the river, and the American agent, who had become 
 one of our party, calculated that the se'hooner would not arrive f()r some time, owing to 
 the prevalence of a contrary wind and disadvantage of course up stream. 
 
 It was now about the miildle of November, and I feared being caught in the ice, 
 I determined theriifore to purchase two canoes from the Indians, and descend to the 
 Des Chutes. 
 
 In order to carry out this j)Ian wo were obliged to leave our luggage, such as books, 
 maps, instruments, &c., with the agent, to be tbrwardeil by the sciiooner whenever she 
 shoulil return. We preferred incurriug this delay to running the risk of taking our 
 baggage in the canoes, which on this part of the Columbia are very small and of the 
 most wretched description. The whole of this district is devoid of tiiid)er, theretbre tlie 
 Indians depend solely on the logs of drift-wooil which iioat down from liie Columbia's 
 upper waters from time to time. 
 
 Of these lliey take the best suited for the purpose, burning and hollowing them out, 
 and at best they are always small, misshapen, rotten, and dangerous. We ran down to 
 the Dos Chutes, 1 !() miles, in 'J j days, arriving there at 10 o'clock at nigiit on the third day, 
 after running the rapiils by moonlight. We hail engaged one Indian who knew the 
 river lo steer the foremost canoe. On this oiu- last day in li.e canoes we found no 
 tind)er on the banks of the river to light a lire and camp, conseipiently were obliged to 
 })ush on far into the night. '1 he ice actually l()rnied around us we arrived. 
 
 At the Des (Chutes the Colmnbia tiills in a succession of rapids as l;u- as the Dalles, 
 and the communication is open between those places by an excellent waggon road. The 
 distance between the Des Chutes and the Dalles is about 1'2 miles. At the Dalles is an 
 American steamer, plying between that place and the Cascades, where the Columbia falls 
 into rapids for only a very short distance, not exceeding two miles. On leaving the 
 steamer at the Caseailes, the passengers walk along a boanled |)latl()rm, on which also 
 is constructed u train to convey the luggage to the other steamer in waiting at the lowoi 
 end of the portage, liom which point the navigation is open lo the Pacilic. 
 
 It may not be out of })lace here to diverge lor a little from the account of our home- 
 ward journey, aiul give a description of the capability of the Colmnbia lor steamer navi- 
 gation, connnencing liom the mouth at the I'acilic Ocean. From Astoria at thi> ' or's 
 mouth it is navigable by steamers as liu" as the Cascades, a distance ol 1,3,) miles. Here 
 a boarded ])ortage and tramway not two miles in length enables the traveller to reach a 
 second steamer, which runs up to the Dalles, distant about 18 miles. At this jjlacc a 
 steep waggon road, which is kept in good oriler, takes the traveller lo the Ues Chutes, a 
 distance of I'J miles, win re a third sieamer riuis up as liu- as Old M'alla Walla, this 
 steamer however, wlu;n the occupation of the upj)er country by troops rendered it worth 
 her while to take freight further up the river than usual, ran up to Priest's Raj)itls above 
 the mouth of Snake River, and actually ran up Snake River itself, and t()und it navigable 
 lor a considerable way. iAgain, the Columbia River is said lo be navigable liom the 
 Priest's Rapids to the mouth of the Okanagan River; aid I have heard since my return 
 that a steamer will be placed thue by a private American Company. -Mjove the Oka- 
 nagan is a 10 mile rapici, anil above this the river is said to lur'e but one rapid to impede 
 the navigation all the way to Fort Colvile. From the upper part of the kettle Falls at 
 Colvile there are but two portages interrupting tlie steam navigation to the mouth of the 
 Pendoreilles River in Rrilish territory, and liom this [loint I am credibly informed the 
 
 C 2 
 
 ^1" i 
 ? • > 
 
 r 
 
 ■■ I 
 
 U:. H 
 
 ! ' I 
 
20 
 
 PAPERS RELATIVE TO THE 
 
 I 
 
 HI I 
 
 liver is available for stoani navigation to beyond the upper of tlic two great lakes of the 
 Columbia to a point where a road might be made across a level plain (as I have mtn- 
 tioiu'd above) either north or south of the Great Okanagan Lakes to the forks of the 
 Eraser and Thompson's River (see above, also letter dated ^'^d October 1S.5<)). 
 
 On .'-iOtii Ndvend)er we arrived at Vanconver, and were most hospitably received l)y 
 :\Ir. (iraham, the oflicer in charge of tiie Hudson's Ray Company's fort there. Vancouver 
 is tiie head-qnavters oftlie Ameriean troops stationed in Oregon, under the command of 
 Cieneral Harney, whom we found shortly after his return (iom San Juan, and who 
 
 received us most hospitablv. . . , , , , , 
 
 The IIiulsou's Bav Company's establishment at Vancouver is considerably reduced at 
 present, and tiielr American neighbours offer them great annoyances, even so far as 
 seizin? their landed property, by a |)rocess termed in American pai lance, "jumping their 
 claims^" A "ood deal of correspondence was being carried on wiiile I was thereupon 
 
 the subject. 
 
 The M'ilhamet River flows into the Columbia ata short distance below Vancouver ; on 
 it is situated Portland, one of the most flourishing towns in Oregon. Erom this town 
 there is regular steam communication twice a month to San Francisco. These ocean 
 steamers afso call at Victoria, taking passengers, and delivering British letters for Van- 
 couver's Island. • /. T 
 
 The American steamers start from San Francisco, pass down the straits of Juan dc 
 FiK a, carrying the letters ))ast Victoria, up Admiralty Inlet and Puget Sound, to Olympia, 
 then on tlieii" return call at Victoria, S'ancouver's Island, deliver the mail and land the 
 ])a>seiii:'ei's. 
 
 i:ml)arkiiiLi' ou board one of these steamers, Mr. Sullivan and I started for Vancouver's 
 Island, leaving Dr. Hector at Fort \'aneouvcr, with diiections to wait one fortnight for 
 the lugLi.ige, tSrc, and then to join ns at \'ictoria. 
 
 At \ ic\oria we found great commercial industry, and much promise of progress. The 
 inhabitants are Kngli>h, Scotch, Americans, Chinese, and Indians, who rove about ihe 
 streets the flirmer seeking and commencinu- to find employment, the latter begging, 
 driiikiim', and nut likely ever 'o become useful to the community. A handsome service- 
 able wooden bridge, James's IJay, connects the (iovernment buildings with the town. 
 The Hudson's Bay C'omi)any "jiave one of their lorts or picketed enclosures in the 
 centre of the town, splendidly snp])lied with almost every kind of nierch uidise. Besides 
 this, wai chouses, stores, and sho|)s carry on a good business ; money is worth about '^i per 
 per cent, a niontii,on good security ; good tradesmen can find abundance of employment. 
 As there is a great scarcity of wotiicn on t!'e islaiui, female servants arc in universal 
 demand, and ol)tain very high w.'ges from oO dollars to .'JU dollars a month. 
 
 'J'lie niaiki ts are abundantly sup)>lied with the best beef, mutton, fish, poultry, eggs, 
 and vegetables. 
 
 The town when I left is not yet lighted by gas, but I have no doubt that will shortly 
 be aceonipli^licd. 
 
 Ivcpiimault Harbour is about three miles from \'ict()ria, where the " Ganges" (Admiral 
 Bayiu's) and several other steamers are lying. E-(juimault is also the head-quarters of 
 the Boundary Commission, uinlerCol. Hawkins, and then uiuler Capt. Ilaig. 
 
 We were niost kindly aiul hospitably entertained by Governor Douglas, Admiral Bayp.es, 
 and all the ollicers ot the fleet ; also l)y Captain Ilaig and his brother oHicers. 
 
 On the .Mil .ianuary I despatched ]\Ir. Sullivan to England, with directions to join nic 
 again as ;-oon as I arrived in London; and waited my.-elf for Dr. Hector's arrival in 
 Victoria liom the ( olinnbia River. 
 
 Dr. llector joined me at Victoria on the Kith January 18(iO, with news of the luggage 
 biing as yet sale, but fVozi n in on the Cohnubia, about .'30 miles below old Walla Walhu 
 I then despatelu'd Dr. llector at his own request, and in conformity with the wishes of 
 Sir U. I. Murehisoii, to eNamine the coal structures at Nanaimo, and make a short tour 
 in the vicinity of that portion of the island. He accordingly started with my servan , 
 James Beads, in a canoe, with bediling and provisions lor a week's trip. Although the 
 time which I allowetl Dr. Hector was but short, neveitheless he acquired much valuable 
 inibrmalion, and received every assistance fiom Mr. Nieol, the Hudson's Bay Company's 
 otlicor in charge of ihe coal mines, in effecting his object. 
 
 Shortly after this I went myself to visit a part of British Columbia, and was most 
 kindly and hospitably entertained by Ca])t. Par.sons, Coi. Moody, and the officers of the 
 Royal Engineers quartered at New Westminster. This place is situated on the right 
 bank of Eraser'^ River, about 1 '2 miles above its bar. The bank chosen f()r the site of 
 the town is very disadvantageous; first, on account of its steepness, and again by the 
 
 Tl 
 
 lie 
 
 Saskatcl 
 
 Tl 
 
 lie 
 
 throiu 
 
EXPLORATION OF BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 21 
 
 the 
 itn- 
 tlic 
 
 by 
 ivcr 
 ilof 
 who 
 
 id density of the timber, causing tlie clearance of it to l)e( 
 
 attcr of 
 
 L'comc a matter of such an 
 enormous expense as far to exceed the fee simple vaUicof any huul in a still unoccupied 
 country. This advantage would be possessed, however, l)y New Westminster, should it 
 ever l)ecome a Hritish town, that Hunard's Inlet, which is a most excellent harb-nn-, woulii 
 be easily accessible from the town, seven miles over land. The site, distant on the river 
 about \}^ miles above the town, chosen by Col. Moody and the engineers as the site for tho 
 barracks and officers' houses, is preferable to that chosen for the site of the town. Hut it 
 is worth serious consideration, whether it would not be more a(Ivi^al)le to ])roceed about 
 18 miles up the river and choose the site where Eort Langley now stands, whore there is 
 a good deal of naturally cleared land, and the tind)er not fbrniidable. The site of Fort 
 Langley for a Rritish town would have this disadvantage, it is on the same side of the 
 river as the American boundary line. 
 
 On Hlh March our baggage arrived in Victoria, and almost at tlie same time with the 
 American steamer for San Francisco. Ry some exertion we maiiag(-d to get our b;iggage 
 and ourselves on board in time, and started from Esquimault for San Francisco. Dr.llector 
 and I arrived at the latter place on '20th March IHGo, and found it impossible to get room 
 on board the steamer about to start for Panama and Aspinwall, being obliged therefore to 
 wait for a fortnight, we employed our time in the interior of California visiting the gold 
 mines of Grass Valley and Nevada, and also the giant trees in the Sierra Nevada range. 
 Returning for the steamer on the .0th of April, we travelled together as far as Panama, 
 when I proceeded, via the Ilavannah, New York, and Montreal, to England, leaving 
 Dr. Hector to await for the British steamer via SoutlMmpton, and by which he antici])ateJ 
 my arrival in England. 
 
 The territory which has now been examined and mnppcd by this expedition ranges 
 from Lake Superior to the eastern shore of the lesser Okanaaan Lake, nnd from tho 
 boundary line to the watershed of the Arctic Ocean. This large bilt of the continent 
 was explored in three seasons. 
 
 The first season was devoted to the examination of its south-eastern portion from 
 Lake Superior to the elbow of the south branch of the Saskatchewan, and from the 
 British boundary line or IDth parallel to Fort Carlton, in lat. ."O'J" 52' N., long. 100° IS' W. 
 
 The second season was devoted to the examination of the territory bctwec;i the two 
 Saskatchewans, to the exploration of the Rocky Moimtains, and to tlie discovery of the 
 passes available for horses in the British territory. 
 
 The third season eonuuenced with along journey from our winter quarters at Edmonton 
 in lat. 5,'^° (jf N., long. 113° '20' W'., through the Blackfoot coimtry to the mo>t western 
 point in the neighboiuhood of the boundary line, previously reached by the expedition 
 from V c eastward in 18.07. A westward course was then resumed alon^; the country 
 between the South Saskntchewan and the British boinidary line, thence once more 
 across the Rocky Mountains. J-'inally, the connexion of a route practicable for horses 
 was eflectcd the whole way from Red River Settlement across the continent to the Gulf 
 of (leorgia, entirely within British dominions. 
 
 This large belt of country embraces districts, some of which are valuable for the 
 purposes of the agricidturist, while others will for ever be comparativoly useless. 
 
 The extent of sinl'ace drained by the Saskatchewan, and olhe tributaries to Lake 
 Winipeg, which we had an o])poitunity of examining, amoun' .n round nmnbers to 
 l.OOjOOO scpiare miles. This region is i)ounded to the north by what is known as the 
 •'strong woods," or the southern limit of the great circum-arctic zone of forest, which 
 occupies these latitudes in the northern hemisj)here. This line, which is indicated in the 
 map, sweeps to the noith-west from the shore of Lake Winipeg, and reaches its most 
 northeridy limitabout .>1.° 30' N., and long. 109' W., from where it again i)asses to south- 
 west, meeting the Rocky .Mountains in lar. 51° N., long. 115° W. Between this line of 
 the "strong woods" and the northern limit of the true prairie coimtry there is a belt 
 of land varying in width, which at one period nuist have been covereil by an extension 
 of the northern forests, but which has been gradually cleared by successive fires. 
 
 It is now a partially wooded country, abounding in lakes and rich natiual j)astinage, 
 in some parts rivalling the finest park .scenery of om* own country. Throughout this 
 region of country the climate s( ems to preserve the same characttr, although it jiasses 
 through very different latitudes, its form being doubtless determined i)y the curves of the 
 isothermal line. Its superfici;d extent embraces about (i.5,()00 square miles, of which 
 more than one-third may be considered as at once available for the purposes of the 
 agriculturist. Its elevation increases (iom 700 to 'l^OOU f et as we ajiproacii the Rocky 
 Mountains, consequently it is not equally ada|)ted tiuoughout tothe cultivation of any one 
 
 C 3 
 
 
 11 '" 
 
 
 : m 
 
 u 
 
 !- 
 
i 
 
 k 
 
 22 
 
 PAPERS RELATIVE TO THE 
 
 crop, ncvcrtlieless at Fort Eilmoiiton, which has an altitude of -J.OOO foot, even wheat is 
 souu'liiiios cMillivatc'ci with .success. 
 
 Tlie le;i-t vahi ible portion of tlie prairie country has an extent ol" about 80,000 square 
 miles, and is ti)at lyiiii; alonir the southern branch of the S.iskatehewan, and soutliward tioni 
 thence to I lie boundary line, wiiile its northern limit is known in the Indian lan;4uages 
 as "the eil"e of the woods," the ori,:xinal line of the woo. is before invaded by lire. 
 
 On the western side of the Rocky Mountains, in the coinitry which we examined, there 
 were but few spots at alUitted for the agricultmist, and these form i.solated patches in 
 valleys separated by mountain ranges. 
 
 As the next result of oin- explorations, I shall briefly mention the different passes 
 throui^h the Rocky Mountains which we explored, alludiui;' to the chief advantages and 
 
 disadvantaiics of each. 
 
 The Kananaskis Pass and the Rritish Kootanie Pa.ss were examined by myself. Of 
 these 1 consider the Kananaskis Pass the preferable one, both on account of its direct 
 course through the mountains and its easier a.scent. 
 
 The ascent tn the height of land fi'om the east is through a wide ger.tly sloping valley, 
 and the innnediate watershed is formed by a narrow riilge, which, if pierced^ by a short 
 tunnel, would reduce the smnmit level to about ijOOO feet above the sea. The descent 
 to the west, into which Kananasi<is Pass o])ens, is comparatively ea.sy. 
 
 The Rritisli Kootanie Pa.ss also opens out into the Kootanie River valley, but the 
 altitude here to be overcome is much greater, amounting to (i.OUO fe. t. There are 
 likewise two lidges to be passed, wliich fact would form a very strong objection to 
 this pass. 
 
 'J'lie \'ermillion Pass, whicli was traver.sed by Dr. Hector, presents on a whole the 
 "•reatest natural facilities for crossing the mountains without the aid of engineering work, 
 as the rise to the height of land is gradual from both sides, a feature whicii seems to be 
 peculiar to this pass. It would thus be imiiossiblc to diminish its sinninit level (which is 
 less than 5,iit)0 feet), as is pro|)o.sed in the case of Kananaskis Pass, but on tiie other 
 hand it would i)e the most suitable i'or the construction of an fns// /nnrn(,/i nxiL 
 
 Tliis, like the other two passes I have nieiitioneil, also strikes the Kootmie River close 
 to its source; but la>t summer Dr. Hector crossed the mountains by another pass fronj 
 the head of the north briuicii of the Saskatchewan, directly to the Columbia River, in 
 the vicinity of tlu' boat encampment. 
 
 Leaving" this latter pass out of consideration for the present, as all of the others open 
 to the Kootanie Uiver, it becomes necessary to consider the coiuse by wid. h it may be 
 practicable to the coast of the Pacific without crossing to i!ie soutii or American side of 
 the bouiularv line. It was with great diHiculty for this purpose even a partial exami- 
 nation of the country could be effected, owing to the nigged valleys which intersect it in 
 a direction parallel to the mountains, and which, thotigli not formidable themselves, are 
 covered With such dense forest as to present obstacles to the traveller. Notwithstanding 
 these difliculties, Mr. Sullivan succecdeii in making iiis way on the north side of the 
 boundary line, and at the same time following a .system of transverse valleys, which might 
 allow of the construction of a road without much trouble from the month of Kananaskis 
 Pass to the Columbia, iibove I'ort Colvile. Prom this jioiiit westward I myself ascer- 
 tained that it would be possible to reach the v.dley of the Okanagan, by which I believe 
 the Americans have already commenced to connect the waggon road of the Columbia 
 with the upper coimtry of th'; Praser River. While jiointing out the circumstances that 
 .seem to favour the po.ssibility of carrying a road tliroiigli British territory, from the 
 Saskatchewan to the Pacific, I wish to refrain from expressing any opinion as to the 
 expediency of uinlertakingat the j)reseiit time a work which woulil involve a vast amount 
 of labour and a corresponding heavy exp.iuliture. For how long a time in the year 
 such a road would remain open, is a question as yet unanswered, and which has a most 
 important bearing on tlie subject. In addition, the difhculty of direct comnumication 
 be; ween Canada and the Saskatchewan country, as compared with the compaiatively easy 
 route through the United States by St. I'aul'.s, renders it very unlikely that the great 
 work of constructing u road across the continent can be .solely the result of British 
 enterprise. 
 
 Not the least important results of the expedition are the meteorological observations 
 whicli have been carefully conducted during the whole period of the explorations, both 
 in the winters and summers, whether we were stationary or travelling. I lay stress upon 
 liiis uict, as it r.ffords n:aterials for ascertaining the exact nature of the climate and 
 me.iUs ('>ir a correct comparison between its naliire and that of Canaila. 
 
 The hourl; 
 assisted by th 
 were not, ho 
 Lieutenant 1 
 attended to. 
 
 'I'hc astroi 
 Mr. Sullivan, 
 determined ] 
 unsteady to I 
 
 The large 
 Kew Clarden 
 inspection of 
 
 Dr. Ilecto 
 Roderick Mi 
 much time n 
 
 In concilia 
 energy of m; 
 the expeditit 
 
 Her Majest) 
 
 U.ilo. 
 
 1 ,s.-)i». 
 
 March 'i.j 
 
 .Juiif 12 
 ,. :io 
 
 July 7 - 
 ,. l:) 
 „ \r, 
 
 „ 17 
 
 „ 19 
 
 ., 20 
 
 „ 21 
 
 „ 2(i 
 
 » 27- 
 
 ,, 29 
 
 ,. ;to 
 
EXPLORATION OF BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 23 
 
 The hourly majjnctic ohsorvations wore coiidiictod by EioiitcDiint Hlakiston, H.A., 
 assi.«tc(l by fhi' other meiiibirs of tho c'X|H(litioii, (hiriiij^- the winter of I8j/-S. TIh^u 
 were not, liowever, all carried on diiriiit;' tiie winter lH,OS-<), owing to the return of 
 Lieutenant Hlaki.ston wilii the instruments, the magnetic decliiialions however were 
 attended to. 
 
 The astronomical observations and computations were placed in the iiands of 
 Mr. Sullivan, and tiie geographical position of the several salient points of the map are 
 determined principally by his hmars, the rates of elirononieters being, of course, too 
 unsteady to l)e depended on while travelling through so rough a coimtry. 
 
 'I'he large botanical collection of oiu' botanist, M. Hoingeau, has already been sent to 
 Kew CJardens, where the specimens have been carefully arranged by himself under the 
 inspection of Dr. Hooker, who highly values them. 
 
 l)r. Hector's specimens of fossils, &c. were from time to lime transmitted to Sir 
 Roderick Murchison at the Jermyn Street Museum, but from the nature of the subject 
 nujcii time must elapse l)el()rc his restdts can be laid before Her Majesty's (iovernment. 
 
 In conclusion, I have great pleasure in i)earing testimony to the unceasing /eal and 
 energy of my companions, whose valuable assistance has been instrumental in bringing 
 the expedition to so successful a termination. 
 
 I have, &c. 
 (Signed) JOHN PALLISER, Capt., 
 Commanding North Ibitish American Kx|)loring Kxpedition. 
 Her Majesty's Principal Secretary of State. 
 
 ^ ■ 
 
 Kiiciosui'i' 1 ill \'i. t. 
 IiiX'dUii iif AsTiidN'oMicAi. ()i;si:iiVATio.s'S (iiiriiii' 1S.")(). 
 
 I'licl. 1. in 
 Ko. 4. 
 
 Date. 
 
 
 If<59. 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 Marcli 2,5 
 
 
 .JUIIL' 12 
 
 - 
 
 „ :io 
 
 - 
 
 July 7 - 
 
 - 
 
 ,. l:i 
 
 • 
 
 „ ir, 
 
 
 „ 17 
 
 - 
 
 ,, 19 
 
 - 
 
 „ '-'0 
 
 - 
 
 „ 21 
 
 - 
 
 „ 2.i 
 
 - 
 
 „ 27- 
 
 . 
 
 „ '29 
 
 .Aufjnst 1 
 
 Place. 
 
 a RcK-kv Mt. Ilo. 
 Iliiiul Mills 
 
 ,1 I.IIKC* 
 
 Pi'iiirif iiciir Kill Dctr itivi'i' 
 Kii kui^iilip Crci k 
 It.tl Dtii- Itivir 
 
 I'rairie . . . 
 
 1() mill's ti) iiortii of How Uivcr 
 S iiiik's to 1101 ill of How Rivtr 
 Crossing I'lice, l!oa Kivcr 
 a (.'ypvc'f's Mount, west flank 
 
 •» >» 
 
 ^ »» >» ■ 
 
 noli, south of Cypree'M Mounts 
 Milk Uivir 
 Cyprci; s Mounts 
 
 
 Ol.s 
 
 All. C. 
 
 II. for 
 
 1. 
 I. 1". 
 
 l.uii;;ilinli' hy 
 Afi-oiillt 111- 
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 13 
 
 
 (ii 
 
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 :i'2 
 
 111 27 
 
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 21 
 
 41 
 
 
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 <) 
 
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 111 12 
 
 51 
 
 11 
 
 19 
 
 
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 I 'J 
 
 
 1 10 58 
 
 50 
 
 r>3 
 
 1 
 
 
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 110 .fl) 
 
 50 
 
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 r>'2 
 
 
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 ■I 
 
 10 
 
 IK) 20 
 
 .-.0 
 
 53 
 
 47 
 
 
 ;J9 
 
 56 
 
 :50 
 
 109 51. 
 
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 10 
 
 22 
 
 
 59 
 
 51 
 
 20 
 
 - 
 
 50 
 
 .';4. 
 
 25 
 
 
 59 
 
 1(5 
 
 11 
 
 110 2S 
 
 50 
 
 27 
 
 42 
 
 
 5:) 
 
 21. 
 
 :io 
 
 110 -12 
 
 49 
 
 47 
 
 27 
 
 
 59 
 
 12 
 
 5-) 
 
 110 36 
 
 •19 
 
 15 
 
 38 
 
 
 59 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 110 :!5 
 
 19 
 
 41. 
 
 38 
 
 - 
 
 58 
 
 59 
 
 22 
 
 110 ;i5 
 
 •19 
 
 ;u 
 
 22 
 
 - 
 
 59 
 
 19 
 
 
 
 HI 
 
 4S 
 
 58 
 
 10 
 
 - 
 
 58 
 
 8 
 
 10 
 
 110 35 
 
 49 
 
 38 
 
 32 
 
 ;1 :i i 
 
 • Longitudu very rwcuratcly (luteruiiiicd lure by mcana of a set ol'limnr distances. 
 
 C4 
 
I 
 
 ' 1 
 
 ■"5 
 
 ^ 
 
 yJ 
 
 24 
 
 PAPERS lllXATIVK TO TlIK 
 
 I.'ci'iinl of A-li'iiiiiiiiiiiMl OlisiTMiliciiis (luring ISV.) -iini/iiDiiil. 
 
 \hu: 
 
 I'luco. 
 
 Olisir. MiT, 
 Ale. for. fori. K. 
 
 l.dii^itiiiU- liy 
 
 .\t'i'oiiiii or 
 
 OliHcrviiiion. 
 
 T.ulUiiiIe. 
 
 - - 
 
 
 
 o 
 
 . 
 
 
 W. 
 
 
 N. 
 
 
 IS.l!). 
 
 Aiijriisi 1 
 
 CyjucH'.s Mounts, west Hiiik, Sni.ill 
 jtrfiiiii. 
 
 57 
 
 'JV 
 
 15 
 
 
 
 111 
 
 
 
 
 
 +9 
 
 1 
 
 35 
 
 21 
 
 ,. « 
 
 litlly Itivcr . ■ - • 
 
 ,'() 
 
 n 
 
 .'>() 
 
 11 J 
 
 .V2 
 
 ■1!) 
 
 ■17 
 
 V 
 
 ,. i' 
 
 OiiL- mill' soutli-wcst of tributary to 
 n.Hy Hivur. 
 
 .^.'i 
 
 .")•_' 
 
 ."l 
 
 • 
 
 ' 
 
 I!> 
 
 W 
 
 :i5 
 
 ., 10 - 
 
 Hills ii'-'iir tril)iitary to Ik'Uy llivcr 
 
 ').') 
 
 4'.' 
 
 :)() 
 
 li;t 
 
 r>o 
 
 19 
 
 n(i 
 
 it 
 
 „ IS - 
 
 *Ki)citaiiii.' Vallry 
 
 r,:\ 
 
 .-)i 
 
 10 
 
 11.-) 
 
 V2 
 
 1!) 
 
 
 
 u 
 
 
 Kootaiiic liivtT ... 
 
 .'),'! 
 
 
 
 IT 
 
 11. -1 
 
 
 
 ■IS 
 
 ;)'.' 
 
 
 
 „ '-'t • 
 
 Kooianic Hivcr (It. 15.) 
 
 .-.'.' 
 
 i;- 
 
 .') 
 
 11.-) 
 
 10 
 
 ■IS 
 
 ■2:i 
 
 51 
 
 „ 26 ■ 
 
 !• 1' ■ " 
 
 ,-.1 
 
 I:) 
 
 
 
 11. 1 
 
 .'iO 
 
 ■IS 
 
 •2r, 
 
 29 
 
 „ '-'7 • 
 
 ,1 >> " 
 
 .-)! 
 
 !) 
 
 17 
 
 11.-, 
 
 1.-, 
 
 •IH 
 
 ;ts 
 
 .'13 
 
 .. 2H - 
 
 (Pa.ldlcr'.s Lake) - 
 
 .'>() 
 
 1,-, 
 
 K) 
 
 iii; 
 
 
 
 ■ts 
 
 u 
 
 41 
 
 ,. .'iO - 
 
 Kootaiiif llivur . . - 
 
 !•!» 
 
 1-: 
 
 '22 
 
 
 • 
 
 ■IS 
 
 57 
 
 '20 
 
 „ 31 ■ 
 
 „ 'JO miles from PaJillcr's 
 Wmc 
 
 1!) 
 
 1 
 
 •M 
 
 lit; 
 
 ;i(; 
 
 w 
 
 15 
 
 ;j3 
 
 St'ptc'Uilier 1 - 
 
 Larfic I.ako, iiortli slioro, .'j iiiilfs cast of 
 «i St extremity. 
 
 W 
 
 '-'I- 
 
 ■"JT 
 
 • 
 
 ■ 
 
 19 
 
 ;)(i 
 
 25 
 
 <> 
 
 Portage, west e.xlrei'.iiiy of sccoiiillake - 
 
 18 
 
 u 
 
 lO 
 
 * 
 
 m 
 
 1<) 
 
 '29 
 
 50 
 
 ,. :i - 
 
 Kootanie Hiver ... 
 
 •1-7 
 
 M 
 
 ;f7 
 
 • 
 
 - 
 
 v.) 
 
 IS 
 
 4S 
 
 „ i - 
 
 .Moiilli ori'eiulureille's Huer 
 
 1-: 
 
 .->[■ 
 
 17 
 
 lis 
 
 
 
 i'J 
 
 
 
 ;ji 
 
 ,. fi •• 
 
 Tort (.'ill vile - . . - 
 
 hi 
 
 1.S 
 
 o 
 
 IIS 
 
 12 
 
 IS 
 
 .'f7 
 
 48 
 
 ., i: ■ 
 
 I'ort SliC|ilienl ... 
 
 I'-' 
 
 .IS 
 
 17 
 
 lis 
 
 
 
 19 
 
 I 
 
 7 
 
 „ ]s - 
 
 Oosirvaliiiii Mount - - • 
 
 I'J 
 
 ;i,-. 
 
 17 
 
 - 
 
 
 ■19 
 
 
 
 1.- 
 
 „ '2'2 ■ 
 
 West ef I'lirt Slie|ilier(l ... 
 
 K) 
 
 .".<) 
 
 l;i 
 
 - 
 
 
 19 
 
 ;! 
 
 10 
 
 „ 2;! - ! 
 
 », M " " 
 
 K) 
 
 .'!() 
 
 ■M 
 
 - 
 
 
 !!• 
 
 <2 
 
 41. 
 
 0.1 . ' 
 
 M -* 1 
 
 ,. .. • ■ - 
 
 lO 
 
 10 
 
 i;i 
 
 - 
 
 __ 
 
 19 
 
 5 
 
 19 
 
 N.Ii. a in.lie.ites liuiar distances olj.-erveii 
 
 .\|iril 'J.'ird, IS.If), at (i li. 'JO ni. .\.m. Mean Time, ;]t Plaeo iiraily f Hoeky Mount Ho.) in Latitude 
 5'J '22' ()" Niirtli. tlie fulloainj; Mean of Luiui;- Distauee-i were observed :— 
 
 T. Mean Time at Place, '22 d. Isli. 21 m. t2 s. observed distanee a • • 107 S' .")" 
 
 I. E. + 1. 40 
 Computed longitude - - 11.', 10' I-.'," \V. 
 
 Marcli 29tli, Isl!), at l{ocky Mount Ho. tlic followlni; variation of C'ompass was determined :— 
 
 '2(i ,;o'E. 
 Also on the s;iine date - - - - ... on jo' |.;, 
 
 i(y 
 
 Variation of compass, Mean - 'jfj '20' K. 
 
 (Signed) J. W, Sui.i.iv.vx, 
 
 SeeiX'tiuy. 
 
 » Longiiudc obtained at this point by a serici of lunar distances, the mean of whicli it here tabulated. 
 
 Sin, 
 
 liKFOK 
 
 necessary that 
 
 winter <iii;irtei 
 
 ill of tlie snow 
 
 purpose of ast 
 
 of my track ol 
 
 A^niii in tii 
 
 in the end of 
 
 opportunity ot 
 
 forniinc; a inor 
 
 III tlie innnl 
 
 Deer Kiver, a 
 
 connectiiiir my 
 
 intcrs'eiiiii!^ si 
 
 Mari'h, wiien, 
 
 branch of tiie 
 
 mo'.intains at . 
 
 The three (i 
 
 but tlie tiinhei 
 
 vahial)le featu 
 
 and Fort I'itt i 
 
 extent it uiToii: 
 
 Tliis winter 
 
 and bcariiiir a 
 
 shelter to aniii 
 
 difficiiity in fe* 
 
 grounds ; and 
 
 to feed in well 
 
 'I'lie iMopiirt 
 
 driest period c 
 
 seems to he no 
 
 deeper in liie i 
 
 'I'he winter i 
 
 yet tiic averaji 
 
 inciies llir()n!»l 
 
 'i'owiirda the 11 
 
 of April, aftei 
 
 visited the iieij 
 
 feet of snow Ol 
 
 On the l-Jih 
 
 River, ti'avellii 
 
 tiiiiliercd conn 
 
 separates the 
 
 tlie foiinh rcae 
 
 The Alhaba 
 
 yards, and IIdm 
 
 I'or fourteci 
 
 prou;ross tedioi 
 
 Jaiiii.'iry. 
 
 Ailing; the 1 
 exhibited on t 
 s.'iine tpiaiility 
 .hi-por lions 
 iniHiiitains, wli 
 the fort to ahi) 
 ascend to the I 
 eastern flank 
 accniniilatiiiir 
 course of the 
 forms to a gre 
 iiioiiiitains, as 
 nit,dit we re.ic 
 doLi; sledjfes on 
 ill obtaining f< 
 iuiiitiiiLj of tl 
 riiiiaininu; b.h 
 Acci.mpanie 
 followed U|> till 
 piss braiiciies ( 
 closely hemniet 
 sooner than I ' 
 
EXPLORATION 01' nillTISII NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 25 
 
 
 I'inclosure 2 in No. 4. 
 Siti, London, .July 8, 1800. 
 
 Tlr.iouK ciilonng on an nicotint of my rxplorntions in llic Rocky Moinitiiins last sinnnur, it in 
 noccssary tiiat I Alionld brioHy notico four dilU-iint jouiiK^ys I niailc while tiic expedition uiis in 
 winter <iuiirtcrs at Tort Kdmontoii, iVoni Octolier IH,J8 to May Isj!). 'rhe fust was l)e(ore the 8cttinj{ 
 in of the snow, when 1 made u trip often days aionj; the Saskateliewan to ilio Snake l'oitaj,'i', for llio 
 purpose of ascertaining the nature of tiie distriet included by the great hand of thin river and iiortU 
 of my track of the previous winter from Fort I'itt to Kdinnnlon. 
 
 Again in tiie following spring cireumstanees obliged me to travel to I'ort Pitt, on the crust snow, 
 in the end of March and to return in April, ininiedialely on the opening of spring, giving me an 
 opportunity of ob-erviiig this very interesting district at the most unfavourabi'.' season, siikI thus 
 forming a more accurate estimate of its capabilities. 
 
 In tiie months of November and l)cceiid)er I examined the country in the nei;.;hbourlu)od of |{e<l 
 Deer Kiver, and along the b.ise of the Kocky Mountains, from tlicuce to the old Mow l''ort, tliu.s 
 connecting my work of the preceding winter with that of the main parly of the expedition during tho 
 intervening sununcr. 'I'he fourth trip I have to notice was in .lanuiuy, I'ubruary, and a j)art of 
 March, when, by passing to the north from Edmonton, I struck the .Vthabasca, the most southcrnly 
 branch of the Macken/ic llivor at the site of Fort Assineboine, and following it up, entered the 
 mo intains at .Taspcr's liinisc, as shall be described. 
 
 The three (irst-mentione 1 trips embrace country of much the sanu' character, partially wooded, 
 but the timber being of the usual infirior (juality, comnu)n to the whole Saskatchewan. llic most 
 valual)le feature of this belt of country, which also stretches from Touchwood Hills, Carlton, 
 and F"'ort I'itt south of Fort Ldmonton to the old How Fort at tho itocky Mountains, is the imnienso 
 extent it aflbrds of what I shall term winter pasturage. 
 
 'I'hia winter pasturage consists of tracts ol country partially wooded with poplar and willow clumps 
 and bearing a most luxuriant growth of vetches and nutritious grasses. '1 he clum|<s of wood alford 
 shelter to animals, while the scrubby brush keeps the snow in such a loo-e state that they find no 
 difUcidty in feeding ; the large tracts of swampy coimtry, when liozen. also form admirable foi'ding 
 grounds; and it is only towards spring, in very severe winter.*, that cattle and horses cannot be left 
 to feed in well chosen localities throughout this region of country. 
 
 The |)roi)ortion of arable land is aUo very con.-iidcrable, and even late in autumn, which is tho 
 driest period of the year, and when thi' .Saskatchewan lor some wei'ks is lordable at Fdmonton, there 
 seems to be no want of water in the form of ^niall slieams and lakes. Jn spiing 1 lind the snow 
 deeper in the neighl >urhood of Fort I'itt than at Fdmonton. 
 
 'i'he winter of I8j8-1) had been innisually severe, as far as the (luantity of snow is concerned, and 
 yet the average depth of snow, when uiuli>tinb.d, as in the woods, was only about eight to twelve 
 inches throughout a large district between IJatllc Kiver and the North Saskatchewan at Kdnionton. 
 'i'ottarda the mountains, in a south-west diriclion, the (piantity is still le>s; but during the c.aly part 
 of April, after 'he snow hiid nearly disappi'ared from iMlmonton, a series of storms from tho north 
 vi-ited the nii:,'ibouih(iod of Fort I'ltt, so that in the middle of .Aprd there were from three to four 
 feet of snnw on the ground. 
 
 On the I'Jlh .Fainiary 1 started for .lasper llou-o by way of I'ort Assineboine and the Athabasca 
 lliver, tiavelling of course with dogs. I'lie track to Fort Assineboine pi;s-es through very densely 
 timbered cotnitry to the north-west. On our second (Lv we crossed a low height ol laiul which 
 separates the valley of the S.iskaichewan from the waters wliieh flow into the Arctic Ocean, and on 
 the I'ourd) reached the de-erted fort of the llnd-on's i{,iy C'ompiny. 
 
 The .Vlhabasca is here a larger river than the North .Sa-katchewan al Fdmonton, being about 300 
 yards, and llowing ihroui^b a valley -M feet deep, and iVom one to two mdis wide. 
 
 For fourteen days 1 followed up this river on the ice, the great depth of the snow rendering our 
 progress tedious, until wiihin forty miles of the Uoeky Mountains, where wc arrived on 31st 
 .lanuary. 
 
 Along the banks of this river were observed .sections of the same coal-beaiing strata tint are 
 exhibited on tln' Sadiatchewan and the Kcd Deer Kiver. 'I'hcre doi's not, however, seem to be the 
 same (]uantity of coal. 
 
 .Ia-|)er House is in hit. ;j3^ 1'2' \., and stands in a. wide vall-y within the second range of tho 
 mountains, which pre-cnt a luagniiieent appearance here. 'I'ho Koche a iliette rises just o()|)ositiJ 
 the fort to about r>,l()0 ftet above the river. Although it was the depth of winter, 1 was able to 
 ascend to the height of ;5..}()l) fee', or 7,;J()it feet above the sia, bo singular is the climate along the 
 eastern (lank of the mountain-, as thaws alternate with severe cold, preventing the snow fioni 
 aceiniuilaliiig to any ureal depth. The win<ls are either frtnn the north or the south, foUoiving the 
 course of tho Atliabi-sca valley, which traverses the uiouiitains in that direction. Althongii ico 
 forms to a great thickness on the lakes, there are but few places where the river i'reezcs within tlio 
 mountains, as even a alight lapiility of current serves to free the ice duiing a pirtial thaw. 1 he 
 night we reached Jasper House we had to ford a rapid on ti.e Athabasca breast deej), carryuig our 
 dog .^lodges on our sliouhlers, allhougli the lliermoiiuter was 11° beh.w zero. Finding a(liiHculty 
 in obtaining food for mv :i men and Ki dogs at this little outpost, where their sole trust is on tho 
 hunting of" the big h(n"n sheep, I desp t.hed ihein back to Ivlniontoii by the i\n\tQ we came, 
 riinaining b.hiiid my-elf to make a fin tiler examination of the iiiountaiiis. 
 
 Acc(;inpanied by Mr. Mowberly, the gentleman in charge of the place, and a half-breed Iriquois, I 
 followed up tho Athabasca for four or live ilavs, taking horses with lis as tiir as the point where tho 
 piss branches olf to New Caledonia. We turned from wluro the AthiOasca is but a small rivulet, 
 closely hemmi'd by [irecipitous mountains. Want of food compelled us to return to Jasper House 
 sooner than I would iiuve wished. 
 
 D 
 
 Kncl. 2 in 
 No. 4. 
 
 -I \> 
 
 ; 'J 
 
 \ 'I 
 
 -1 : 
 
96 
 
 PAPERS RKLATIVE TO THE 
 
 1 
 
 l! 
 
 f 
 
 Bi'sidi's liis kindnrsn in iirc'om|)iiiiyiiig mo on lli'in Imnl trip, I nnt nlsto iiulchti'd to Mr, Mowhi-rly 
 for a viilu.i'>li' nii'icorolDjjical registrr, ki'|)i until tin- inintli of April, tin.' obsiTvations being nmiii' 
 with instrnnicnts I lift nt J.ispor Hnuse lor that puipoHL'. 
 
 Having thns tnivi'llcd in the Itocky ^l(luntaill^' ill llio most nntavi)iirai)!u lu'rind ol' an iniU'^iially 
 irviTi' winter, 1 am iMiaiili'd to state, that uhatcvcr may be tlie amount ot snow on tiic hi'i^ihls of 
 land and tlitir wislern Hank, tlii' valli-ys of tho iMstcrn rangos aro actnally loss cninnnbi'reil by snow 
 than niiiili of the prairie eonnlry. 
 
 On I'.dii I'ebrnary i atarteil on my retnrn to I'ldinonton, keeping a direet conrse tiiroiigii tlie 
 woods for that place. I ua.s aeeonipanied by an rri(|nois and a yninig liaif-liro'd lad; \M' earriid 
 our blankets and a small (|tiaiitity of provisions on our backs, trusting to our killing raltliils oi' other 
 gume on llic route. In lliis however, we were dii<ap[iointed, and we weri' foiced to make thiee days' 
 provisioiiB last for 10 days, when the Irii|ii(iis killed a moo-e <leer. On .")lh March I reached I/ike 
 St. Aim's, ail 1 was ho-ipitalily enlerlained for a dwy by the lloman Catholic Missionaries at that 
 place. A single ni;:hi'» run on a "ell-heaten traik bronght me lo Mdinontun, which is .'iO niilcti from 
 the Mission. The Cdimiiy passed over on this route is very irrei;nlar and densely wooded Om' 
 course lay for a ronsideralile distance along MeLeod'if Hiver, a tributary ol' the Athalia«cu from 
 the south. At the place where I crossed Pend)ina liiver, another tributary of tin- Athabasca, a lied 
 of coal is exposed on its baidvs, which is about eight feet thick, and at one point hat* previousily been 
 on fire. 
 
 Having now given a brief sketch of the manner in which I employed my time during the winitT, 
 I will p.iss at once to the more especial object of this re|i(Mt, which is to <lescribe the contiiiualioli of 
 tlie exph)ratlon of tlie Itocky Mountains made during the sne<'eediiig sumiiier. 
 
 After speiidiiig the early jiart of the summer with the main body of the expedition, in examining 
 the country fif the Sonili Saskatchewan, as has already been deiaileil in your letter to Ilcr Majesty's 
 Government, d.\t''d September IHjli, I left you at the Cypree's Mountains on .'bd of August. 
 
 My |)arty ronsi-ted of myself, four men, and my Sto ey hunter. Ninirod, with 17 horses, eight of 
 which were pa<ke(l with my supplies, consisting of 210 lb~. ol' piinmicaii, 60 lbs. of Hour, and .')0 lbs. 
 of sugi'.r, along with a good sup|)ly of animiinition. 
 
 Kc( |)ing on the whole nearly lo the iinrth-wist, and crosging Bvlly Uiver where it joins the 
 South Sit.katchewan, in lat 4!)° 17' N., I reached the m innlains at the old liow l''ort in ten davs ; 
 besldcr. meeting witli a large bin I of I'iegaii Indians, who alone of all tlie tribes we have nut showed 
 n disposition lo be more than ijiiportuiiate, I spnit a day in a camp of the mount. lin Assiuehoinc-s, 
 nt the miuith of the Ispas,|uelion HiviT. 'I'liey had been obliged to have tli.' Thickwood.o, owing to 
 the scarcity of game, and were here kdiing a considerable (|naiitity of elk and ;,'ridy he.irs. 'I'hev 
 are almost tiie best dispo.sed Indiins we have seen, and have been ((UiviTted to (.'hri.-'tianitv tliron"ii 
 the inllmnce of the Wesleyaii missionaries. Some of tin in cultivate little plots (if ground in the 
 neighbourhood of the Wesleyan Mls-ionary Sialiou al Pigeon L;:ke, and a!so at the (dd |5ow I'ort. 
 'J'heir principal crops are turnip- and potatoes, which liiey grow more as curio.slties than practically 
 sujiplying ilii'in with food. 
 
 l''roin ihi' site of the liow Fori I fillowed up my track of the preceding Miimner, along the valley of 
 How liiver, until 1 readied Castle .Mount o|)posite ih,' Veniiilliou Pass. Iiiste.id of crossiii.r "tli^ 
 watershed at this place, the hoj)e (M' |)iocuiiiig g.iine and adding to niv stock of pinvisioiis, to which 
 up lo this lime we had avoided having recourse, iiidiici d nu' lo gel to the \.W. as l.ir as possible, 
 keeping on tiie easlcrn slope of the iiioiintaiiis. I accordingly passed from the South to liie Jsorlh 
 Saskatchawaii by the Pipe Stone Pa.s, which is fiirihei to tiie" east than ill.,' Little Fork I'ass, by which 
 I crossed this (ransvcr.se divide in the preceding Miinmer. This pass follows up a small tributary to 
 J3owKiver from the north, and affr having traversed a height of land at an alliiiule of about 7,1I00 icet, 
 descends what I name the Siflleur liiver to the norih biaiich of the .Saskatchewan at the Kootanie 
 plain. Here I left my Indians, as they had by tin ir hiiiUing adilcd 70 His. to my sine of peiiimican, 
 and they were now likely, from the nature of the eonnlry 1 was about to lra\erse, to coiisume iiiore 
 than llicy would kill. 
 
 Altering my course to the .S.W., I followed up the Saskntchcwan lo its .source, and searched for a 
 pass to tlie Columbia, of the existence of which I had been informed by the Indians. 
 
 Choo iig the middle f irk, I found it to rise in three branches, two of which are dciivcd fioni 
 immense glaciers, while the third is merely a small stream, issuing from a wide valley, the bottom of 
 which is level and heavily wooded, and without any perceptible dividing ridge gives lisc also to a 
 branch of the Columbia flowing to the south. 
 
 This height of l.iiid is al an altitude of about 4,800 feel, and is in lat. 'tX" 4(i' K, long. 117° ."JO' W 
 In reaching it the ascent is iniperceptibie, but the valley of the great fork is closely hemmed by 
 lofty precipices, its whole width of about half a mile being occiiiiied by shingle deposits, showin-r ,l,ut 
 during the floods the channel of the " . ~ ... •. . .. >. n 
 
 •luring the floods tlie channel of the river must be of great breadili, and the valley aimosi impassable. 
 
 One of the glaeiurs in which this river ri.s,.s is of magnificent diinension.-, even exccedin-r those "o 
 the one at the Glacier Lake which was examined the preceding smnnier. It must be at Tea.st nim 
 
 ne 
 
 miles long and three wide, and desceiuk from the same « mer de glace" that envelopes the hieher 
 portions of the mountanis for a considerable way to the north. 
 
 On 7th September I commenced the descent to the Columbia by Hlaoberry River, a .stream which 
 lapully increases in size, and descends about 2,000 feet through a very contra'cled valley in its course 
 of aliout 3o miles. At various points we llmiid traces of an old trail, which had evidently been out 
 ot use lor many years, .so that 1 have no doubt that this wa,s the pass traversed by Ilowse in An-'ust IHIO 
 as laul ilown ,11 M,-. Arrowsiuith's most .eecni map. It was al that time use.l as a portage i"ute fioni 
 tlie eas lo the west side ol the mountains, but was abandoned in favour of the more iiorthenily route 
 by the boat encampment. ^ 
 
 The ditliciil 
 growth, and tl 
 nine da\s in di 
 117 .10 ' W. 
 flats of roundel 
 spring flooils. 
 
 The Coluiul 
 sluggish and d 
 il.s right risi' fi 
 A lanye of 1 
 deep rocky cai 
 down to Its grt 
 endeavour lo |i 
 valley of the ri 
 nut anticipate ; 
 forest. I spen 
 follow, but f.iih 
 canoes, and kec 
 Likes. 
 
 1 had only n 
 long fast ihey 
 them lo eat, a 
 by which, if I 1 
 horses. \Vi' ha 
 iiigly with grea 
 iiig up the Cob 
 This great vi 
 on the west slo| 
 by the valley tl 
 liiller Kool \a 
 eontiiiualion of 
 north, l>illowin;i 
 could be ell'eclei 
 of the head «ali 
 As far south 
 the woods with 
 a bend which 
 aspect, Uvi.' W 
 tree being th 
 predominale. 
 The Colniii 
 the valley tin 
 mountain sircii 
 lakes in its bei 
 From abon 
 formed of bei 
 phenoinenon 
 Mount axis, 
 A narrow 
 separates the so 
 the south. Hi 
 observed by C 
 enters the great 
 of the Kootanii 
 Following d( 
 From this placi 
 far south as 48' 
 Paddlers' Lakt 
 horses so late ii 
 followed down 
 who told me tl 
 difKculty in crc 
 by following d 
 I arrived at tl 
 Vancouver. 
 
 You have all 
 arrival in Vane 
 In the end o 
 panied by Mr. 
 iSanaimo is ! 
 the coal is pr 
 importance in 
 very interestini 
 
KXPLOR ATION OK nUITISII NORTH AMKIUCA. 
 
 n 
 
 til.' 
 
 I lull 
 
 Dtlicr 
 .lavs' 
 
 ,;iki' 
 
 tliitl 
 friiin 
 
 Otir 
 from 
 
 Ix.l 
 bt'C'ii 
 
 'I'lie (litlicnliiis of .le.-iciiulinp lliia valloy mi' very fiiiat, iiiisiiii; fiom tho iKiiMiy .if tin- fonst 
 giovvili, ami till- .•onlinciion of lliu viilloy at various |)oiiiis by itiiky liiii licrs. \Vu wcro (tccupiid 
 iitiiu (lavs in (iis.i'n.lin}^ a liinlanct' of .">.» niil.-s to its iiioiitli, wliiih U in hn. 51" 2rt' \., loiij^. ahoiit 
 1 17' .">()' \V. Wli. IT it cMittrs the vall.y of tlii' Coliiinliia Uivir, IJIatiuiiy Hivtr win. Is over inunriise 
 flats of iimiidf.l sliinf,'li', Icslifyin^ to the ainoiiiit of maliiiai liidiigiit down from the inuiiiitaiiiii hy iho 
 *|)rini; flooils, 
 
 Tlio ("nliimliia at llii- point wliriv wc .-truck it id (lowiii^r to N.W. alioiit '210 yar.ls wide, and very 
 slu^J{i!^ll and dti'it. Il» valley id from llii.c to fonr miles wi.li', and liounded \>y mountains, vvliicli to 
 its light rise iVoin :»,(»(>(( to •.('OO fuel abovo its levul, but on the left are ahout I, ()()() l.tt lower. 
 
 A raiiiii! .if low lulls occupy (he c.ntre of tlie valley, through which nhub.'iry l{iver iia>i»es in a 
 deep r.iiky caiion b.foro joiiiinj? the main stream. It w.is now my wish to follow tho (.'oluinbia Hivcr 
 d.iwn Id il.s (^re.it beml at the boat . iieampmoiit, an. I thence foMowiiiMr np the valley of {'anou Uiver, 
 enileavonr to |ia-s to the liea.l waters of the '1 hotnp^oii's liiver, and s.t r.ach Hriti.-ii t'olnmbin. 'I'lic 
 valliy of the riv.r appeiirs to be wid.-, and the mniiniains Hieiii s.) open with rolbng oml'...i., that I did 
 not anti.'ipat.' any great dilliinlty in following sncb a course, d' it had not liieii for the density of the 
 forest. 1 spent some time in ^earehin^ for any trace of n trad leadin;^ in llio <lirectiiiii I desired to 
 f.illow, but f.iileil, as tlu' Shooshcwap III. Hans who inhabit this region of oniitry travel s.tlely by 
 canoes, and keep the very lew lioiscw which tlicy possess in the n.ighboni hood of the U[>[icr Columbia 
 L ikes. 
 
 I had only now provisions f.)r 10 or I'J .lavn, and many of my hor-cs were much enfeebled by tho 
 loll},' fa-t they iia.l undergone in descen.llng lllaeberry Kiver, wh.re there is little .)r nothing for 
 them t.) eat, an. I having only onu axe, I did not feel myself jiisiili.. I in attempting to liillow a c.turse 
 by which, il 1 I'ailed to penetrate, I .lionid have to retrace my steps, probably with the lo^s of all my 
 hur^is, We ha.l also enc.rinter.'d several .«now -tonus, warning iis id' the coining of winter; acc.ird- 
 ingly with gnat r. lii.'tan.!o I turned to th.^ south on the IMib of Septeiiilur and .'omnuiice.l fullow- 
 ing lip the (.'ohiniliia to its source, where 1 arrived on .'Ir.l October. 
 
 This great valliy linoiigh wiiich the ('oliiinl)ia (lows is one ot the most singular I'eatiir.'.s .)liserve.l 
 on the west 'lope of the llucky M.mntaii'is. It is contiiine.l to the south from the Columbia Lakes 
 by the valley tlir.)iigh which tiie Ivootanie Uiver tlows, and the famous wintering gr.. mills in the 
 Hitter i{o.)t N'alley, to which the settlers Hock from Colvile and .)ther places, is, williout doubt, the 
 continuation of the same great natural feature. It is the b.liel that this valley is conliniiid to the 
 north, liillovving the c.mrse of ( 'alloc Kiver, that makes me -o .sanguine tiiat by this route a passage 
 colli. I be elfected int.) the valleys of either Ihoinpson or Finser's Uivi'r. However, we kii.iw s.) little 
 of the head watirs of th.ise rivers, tiiat 1 think it would be [ireinatnre to oiler an .)pini.in on this point. 
 
 As far south as lat. .'il'' \. I f.iund great dillicnlty in truverMiig this valley, from the iiatuie of 
 the w.i.i.ls with which it is cl.illieil, consisting of a t<)rist growth .>f imrthcrn character. After passing 
 a bend which .icciivs in that latitude however, the torest assumes almost suddenly a Calii'oriilan 
 asjieet, Iree from nnderw.iod, aii.l stretches of open prairie cl.itlied with bunch grass, the prevailing 
 tree being till' pinus ponder.isa ; vvhcr I'afarther down the Columbia ami to tho north spruce tirs 
 pred.iminate. 
 
 'I'lic Columbia Uiver .ontiimes to be of large size to its source, as from the small inclination of 
 the valley through which it ll.)ws, it preserved more the cimrncter of a sluggish canal than of a 
 mountain stream. It win. Is through its valley boiinde.l by a natural level, and ineluiling large swampy 
 lakes in its bends. 
 
 l''rom ab.iut the 'list parallel southward, however, the river lu'comes hemmed in by high banks, 
 f.irme.l of beds .if sand and shingle, whi.h fill tin- valley, forining terraces of .liileri'iit levels, ii 
 plieiiomeimii common to all the valleys further to the south vvliidi are contiguous to the itucky 
 Mount axis. 
 
 A narr.iw belt of open timbered land, only slightly elevated above the npper Columbia Lake, 
 separates the source of the Columbia from the Ko.itanie Uiver, a swift stream of large size (lowing to 
 the south. Hel.ire reaching this point the Kootanie Uiver breaks through a rocky caiioii, as was 
 observed by Captain Paliiser in his exploration of the preceding year, and it is at tliis point that it 
 enters the great longitudinal valley, through which it (lows to the south, forming the camping grounds 
 of the Kootanie Indians. 
 
 t'ollovving down this river, which flows to the K.S.E., I reached tlie Kootanie Post on 7th October. 
 From this place I Ibllowed the Hti.lson's Hay C.)ni[)any's trail along the Kootanie Uiver, which dips as 
 far south as 48" '25' N., before it ben. Is again to the north to nwettlie Columbia. Helbre reaching the 
 Paddlers' Lake, where we left this river, we were obliged to swim it twice, a very severe trial to the 
 horses so late in the season. From the Kootanie Uiver we crossed to the Kullespelm Lake, and thence 
 followed down Clark's Fork for about '20 miles. Here 1 happened to meet a Colvile half-breed, 
 who told me that the snow was lying s6 deep on the Knllespelni mountains that we should find a 
 difKculty in crossing them. Accordingly 1 travelleil to the south until I came to the Spokan Uiver, 
 by (bllowing down which I can'e on the Columbian waggon road, about ^0 miles south of Colvile. 
 I arrived at this place on the '2fith October, and joined yon an you were preparing to start for 
 Vancouver. 
 
 You have already inf.)rmc(l Her Majesty's (lovernment of my movements from that time until my 
 arrival in Vancouver's Island on ,lanuary Ifltli, lf<fi(». 
 
 In the eiiil of .lanuary I started for Nanaimo, travelling in a canoe with (bur Indians, and accom- 
 panied by Mr. Nind, of the local Colonial Oflice. 
 
 Naiiaimo is situated about 70 miles tip the oast, north-west of Victoria. It is from this place that 
 the coal is procured which is already rendering Nancouver's Island of considerable mercantile 
 importance in the San Francisco market. I had only a few days to spend in the examination of this 
 very interesting district, but I saw enough to convince me of the value and considerable extent of this 
 
 D2 
 
 n 
 
 ] K 
 
 i I 
 
28 
 
 PAPERS RELATIVE TO THE 
 
 conl deposit. This co.il, wliiol), however, is more propcily spcnkinp; a lignite, is about 10 per cent, 
 less valuable tbnu the true coal of the carbonifennis epoch. It is worked at Nanaiiiio by the 
 
 . Tiie fossils which I have collected have not yet arrived iu Kngland, but they will 
 letcrniinc this point with groat exactitude. Mr. Nichol, the gcutlcmau in charge, 
 I of Mr. Dallat!, on behalf of the Hudson's Bay Company, afforded me every facility 
 )n of the njines and the surrounding country, allowing me tc) have access to the 
 (iiiicrcnt maps and documents connected witii the mines under his charge. In the course of another 
 trip from Victoria up I'rasier's liiver, 1 learned some further details concerning this interesting group 
 of coal-bearing strata of the I'acific coast, and which information, together with »)bscrvations made in 
 California, will be cond)ined in the general report of the geology of the expedition to be submitted 
 through you to Her Majesty's Ciovernnicnt as soon aa it is prepared. 
 
 Captain Palliser, 
 
 Exploring Expedition. 
 
 I have, (Sec. 
 (Signed) JAMES IIEC'i'OR, M.D., Ediii. 
 
 AsTUoxoMiCAL OnsEUVATiONs, 1858-9. — Dr. IIectok. 
 LongiluJc, itpproxiniate. Latitude, diurnal only. 
 
 Dili'. 
 
 |S 
 
 h. U 
 
 riiu-t 
 
 1Hj8. 
 Ndvemlicr 'JO 
 Dcieaibcr I 
 
 1) 
 »i - 
 
 ■1- 
 
 (J 
 
 i» 
 
 „ 10 
 
 ., 11 
 „ 1.3 
 KS,-)!). 
 Janu;(ry \.'> 
 „ 17 
 ., '-':i 
 ,, '-'5 
 ., 2.) 
 February 'J 
 „ ' H 
 ,, I'J 
 „ 1:J 
 
 Au-ust 8 
 .. 9 
 „ I'i 
 „ Ui 
 
 „ •-•;< 
 ,. 21. 
 
 „ 2i> 
 
 „ :h) 
 
 Seplembur G 
 H 
 „ 10 
 » 11 
 .. 1.'. 
 „ 17 
 
 O t 
 
 ,, 2;t 
 
 „ 2.-) 
 
 :jo 
 
 October 1 
 ,, 2 
 ,. -i 
 
 .. r, 
 „ 
 
 „ H 
 „ 10 
 
 „ 12 ■ 
 „ 13 
 
 Niirili side of Battle River - - . . 
 
 Red Deer Rivir - - - . . 
 
 „ „ n]ij)()sit<' Af.lIiT - .. . 
 
 „ „ above I'orks - . . 
 
 I.iltle Rod liter River - - . . . 
 S >iirie of I.iltic liod D.cr River 
 
 l)i.:id M.in'.-i River - - . . . 
 
 Indian C.iiiip Edgi' Ci'. • . . . 
 
 Tliii'kwooiN, lii'twecn I'enibina River and Puddh^ River 
 I'lilt As>iiH'bniiiL" " - . . . 
 
 Al..al)a><M River - • - . . 
 
 Rtdow Dead Man's Rapid - - . . 
 
 Jasper House - ... . . 
 
 ,, - •. . . .. 
 
 Maligne River - - . . . . 
 
 forks ot' Allial)a>cM and Whirlixui! Ivivor, trail to Boat 
 
 Eiic iniprn'. nt . • - . . 
 
 South of IJow River - - . . . 
 
 Small Lake .... . . 
 
 Monlli, is|)is(inelinM Itiver - - . . 
 
 SoiilJi of liinv River - - . . 
 
 Ten niiks above Vermillion - . . 
 
 Opposite Oliservatioji I'oiiit ... 
 
 Ill igbt ufknul. Pipe River ... 
 
 li. bank of Nonli IJraiicli • ... 
 
 (ireat (il.ieier ..... 
 
 liliieberry Itiver ..... 
 
 Rii;lit sidr valley, niaibeiry River . . . 
 
 iilaeberry River . .... 
 
 Montii, Blaeberry River ... 
 
 Columbia River ... 
 
 Lower t'oliunliia Lake 
 Source of ('obind)ia 
 Kootanie River 
 
 I.OIV'illl.ll', 
 
 FCoolanie Post 
 Koulariie liiver 
 
 ♦I • • 
 
 Si'cond transverse valley 
 Kootanie River, third transverse valley 
 
 W. 
 
 IL! 
 
 ]\i 
 11 -1 
 Hi 
 
 II,-. 
 
 11a 
 HI- 
 
 Hi- 
 nt 
 
 11. -> 
 11(> 
 117 
 IKS 
 
 118 
 IIS 
 
 118 
 112 
 ll:t 
 li;j 
 n.-. 
 ll(> 
 110 
 IKi 
 lit) 
 il7 
 117 
 117 
 117 
 117 
 117 
 117 
 117 
 117 
 111) 
 
 llfi 
 Il.> 
 11,3 
 11.3 
 11,3 
 11,3 
 11.3 
 11,3 
 11,3 
 
 ;i.3 
 10 
 ,30 
 ;iO 
 
 
 .3;) 
 
 ;j 
 1(> 
 
 18 
 •1-8 
 •It) 
 ■1<> 
 18 
 10 
 10 
 12 
 
 fi 
 IG 
 
 (i 
 ;3S 
 
 7 
 
 IG 
 20 
 21. 
 ,30 
 ■M 
 2,3 
 :!0 
 :J.5 
 35 
 .30 
 :fO 
 
 20 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 •-'() 
 
 IG 
 ,30 
 
 lo 
 
 10 
 
 5 
 10 
 '.'() 
 .'JO 
 
 J.aliiuili', 
 
 ,32 
 ,32 
 .32 
 ,31 
 ,31 
 ,31 
 
 ,-l- 
 ,31. 
 5t 
 .3t 
 
 .3:i 
 
 .53 
 
 ,32 
 50 
 .30 
 ,30 
 ,31 
 ;3I 
 .31 
 51 
 ,31 
 -)1 
 51 
 ,31 
 ,31 
 .31 
 .31 
 .31 
 51 
 51 
 50 
 50 
 50 
 I'J 
 •I!) 
 I!) 
 ■M 
 ■18 
 
 N. 
 
 ■16 
 
 18 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 50 
 
 2;) 
 •Ji 
 It 
 
 '.'5 
 12 
 
 ;ti 
 
 19 
 1*2 
 50 
 12 
 12 
 
 IG 
 1,'t 
 'J.i 
 V.i 
 8 
 ll» 
 22 
 •JH 
 5H 
 ■Ki 
 •K) 
 
 ;tfi 
 ;io 
 
 25 
 
 It 
 
 9 
 
 ;) 
 t7 
 29 
 
 7 
 50 
 .'IG 
 2:» 
 5t 
 10 
 
 2G 
 l:i 
 
 :jg 
 
 26 
 
 28 
 28 
 10 
 
 ;) 
 
 21 
 
 1 
 t 
 36 
 21. 
 51 
 21 
 5 
 50 
 
 51. 
 
 ,5 
 39 
 
 8 
 '20 
 
 
 29 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 33 
 •t9 
 39 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 50 
 19 
 
 5 
 55 
 
 :i 
 :» 
 
 41 
 
 2J. 
 18 
 42 
 1-8 
 28 
 
 IH 30 ai 
 18 25 23 
 
 The longitudes given arc those used iti calculating tlic latiludea inerely.-J. II. 
 
 James HEcron, M. D., Edin. 
 
!i-. 
 
 
 It 
 
 
 26 
 
 
 l;{ 
 
 
 'Mi 
 
 
 •2H 
 
 
 '..'S 
 
 
 28 
 
 
 10 
 
 it 
 
 
 '2\ 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 1. 
 
 
 :«) 
 
 I 
 
 '2^ 
 
 ) 
 
 51 
 
 ; 
 
 '21 
 
 J 
 
 .5 
 
 > 
 
 50 
 
 ;( 
 
 5r, 
 
 7 
 
 •i 
 
 9 
 
 :i;{ 
 
 7 
 
 11 
 
 
 
 •2V 
 
 r> 
 
 18 
 
 !:t 
 
 •1'2 
 
 >)• 
 
 IH 
 
 
 
 '28 
 
 iO 
 
 ni. 
 
 i5 
 
 '2a 
 
 Ldiii. 
 
 1 
 
so 
 
 (O, 
 Mi 
 
 
 Ciuf4 
 
 j£>Jji 
 
 '••hrn 
 
 x4 • 
 
 SECTIONS 
 
 /V? / T«£ KOOTANIE PASS 
 
 it 
 
 
 hi 
 
 u, ' TOACCO 
 
 5 'i 
 
 It '^0(1 
 
 GEilC. fllLCa 
 
 Uariumtal .Sraie f! Gm»\ MiUx '/> an Inch 
 
 VfrtiutI S/d/r ■Ullh) f^f{ ti- an Inrh 
 
 N". 2 BO 'NDARY PASS 
 
 finoo„ 
 
 -H 
 
 
 c'fli»/( Arrim,;>rutJi Ulhii llitn 
 
I'ofiii A'-i ,m.;i!ut/i l.tlliii mini 
 
 Extract of 
 
 Sir, 
 
 In ac 
 
 in your lett( 
 enclose a re 
 Pallisei's exj 
 in carrying ( 
 
 C. Fortcs( 
 &c. 
 
 British Nor 
 generally, but 
 dilTeront provi 
 map it will he 
 extensive rcgi 
 great lakes a 
 size tlie rem; 
 uiiilcr regular 
 as " Indian te 
 
 T/ic Intcrioi 
 in the fur trac 
 want of a nai 
 tion that the ( 
 the most nor 
 expect to thn 
 Hence thegri' 
 of the House ^ 
 the country o' 
 the natural i 
 intlacncc, can 
 example : a st 
 produced over 
 fact that donu 
 Btuck farming 
 there is some ( 
 shores of tlie 
 America," it 
 from reliable i 
 from which a 
 
 Sources of L 
 the interior f 
 has the trade 
 country has Ix 
 most countric! 
 view has been 
 Companies en 
 as astronomicij 
 Taylor, beside 
 been ably car 
 over, Ilowse, i 
 
EXPLORATION OF BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 29 
 
 No. 5. No 5. 
 
 Extract of a LETTER from Captain Blakiston, R.A., to C. Foutescue, Esq., M.P. 
 
 Sib, Woolwich October St, 1859. 
 
 In accordance with tlie iHrcctions of Iii« Grace »he Duke of Newcastle, contained 
 in yonr letter dated Downin,;,' Street, '22d Jidy i;i.ii), I have the honour herewith to 
 enclose a report, drawn nj) from information collected whilst attached to Captain 
 Palliser's expedition as Magnetic Observer, and also, after sei)aratiiig from tlujt expedition, 
 in carrying out my original instructions, 
 
 I have, kc. 
 C. Fortcscue,Esq., M.P. (Signed) THOMAS BLAKISTON, 
 
 &c. &c. Captain, Royal Artillery. 
 
 REPORT. 
 Enclosure 1 in No, .'». 
 
 iNTUODLCrlON'. 
 
 British Xorlh America. — The prcvailinfj ignorance in the United Kingdom of North America 
 generally, but more es[)ccially of the Uritisli jjoisesslons on that coniiiicnt, is such, that all the 
 dilTerent provinces and teirilorii'S are usually inchided in the term "Canada." Now, on looking at a 
 map it will he seen that Canada is but a comparatively small portion of Hiitish North America, wliich 
 extensive region, stretehing from the Atlantic to the Pacifie, and toncliing the United States in the 
 great lakes and forty-ninth parallel, is limited to the north only by the I'Vozen Ocean, and rivals in 
 size the remainder of this iioriiiern continent. Included in this are several thriving provinces, all 
 under regular governments, and more or less peopled, but there is still the greater portion remaining 
 as " Indian territory." 
 
 T/ic Interior. — Tins, then, which until lately has excited little attention, except to those interested 
 in the fur trade or Arctic exploration, is the country to which this rei)ort specially refers, and for 
 want of a name must for the present be called " the Interior." And when we take into oonsidcr.a- 
 tion that the extent in latitude of this tr.ict is as great as from the almost tropical Gulf of Mexico to 
 the most norliierii confines of the American Union, where the winters are nearly Arctic, we must 
 expect to find it likewise varying very greatly in respect to climate, soil, and natural productions. 
 Hence thegre ter part of the apparently contradictory evidence produced before the Select Committee 
 of the House of Conunons on the Hudson's 15ay (luestion in 1857 is to be attributed to the fact that 
 the country over which that Com[)any had control is of so great an extent, that a statement concerning 
 the natural productions, fitness for agiienlture, or anyihiiig which climate or physical nature would 
 intlncnce, can only be taken as referring to that particular part and not to the whole country. For 
 example: a statement that good wheat grows in Ihipert's Land does not prove that this grain can be 
 produced over the whole country, of which the waters lind their way into Hudson's Hay; nor can the 
 fact that domestic cattle thrive in the Hudson's Hay Company's territories induce us to believe that 
 Stock farming (notwithstanding that we have evidence that on the banks of Hack's (Ireat l'"ish River 
 there is some of" the finest grazing country in the world ") would he a profiiable undertaking on the 
 shores of the Arctic Ocean, so that in the following " I'e[)rn't on the Intciior of British North 
 America," it has been my endeavour to bring each part forward in its true light as fai; as possible 
 from reliable Information and my own observations. I will t'^ercfore enumerate ihc (liH'erent Bourcca 
 from which a knowledge of the interior has been gained. 
 
 Sonrci'S of Iiifoniiution. — During two centuries the fur trade has been gradually extending itself into 
 the interior from three principal points — Hudson's 15ay, Canada, and the Pacific; and so lucrative 
 hag the trade been, and such competition was there for some year.s between rival Companies, that the 
 country has been traversed in almost every direction, and the routes taken being usually water (in 
 most countries the prin»itive means of coinnuinication , the mapping of it in a geographical point of 
 view has been generally very thoroughly carried out. Since the times of Ilearne ai"! Mackenzie, the 
 Companies engaged in the fur trade have at dilVerent times employed men of eonsic erablo qualifications 
 as astronomical surveyors, among whom may he nuMitioned the late ^Ir. David Tliorapson, Tidier, and 
 Taylor, besides which the Hudson's Hay Coni|)any has itself fitted out Arctic expeditions, which have 
 been ably carried out by Dease and Simpson, Dr. llae, Messrs. Anderson and Stewart; arul, more- 
 over, Howsc, known as the author of the Creo (iranuuar, made considerable explorations in tho 
 
 Da 
 
 End. 1 in 
 No. 5. 
 
ao 
 
 PAPERS RELATIVE TO THE 
 
 1 
 
 i N 
 
 i 
 
 f 
 
 Rppkv Mountain^ in IF<1!>-10-1I, while in lliat stivico. Otiicr traTclloii have pap.«C(l throiifjh the 
 country in'i''lv ''>' '''*^' means piovitl.d hy the fur tra(li>, animij,' whom may he mentioned Sir Oeorge 
 SMnp^ciii, (iovei-nor of tlie tenitoiiis of the HuiIjou's IJay Coiiipany, Colonel Lefroy, Hoyal Artillery, 
 David l>on"Iii3, ami Mr. Urumniond, holh liotanists ('aplaiii Warre, and Mr. I'aul Kano, whoso 
 inteic*tin"^\vork, '• The \Vandenn!j;s of an Artist," has 3erve<l lo throw mncli lif^ht on the mode of 
 life in tiic"inlcrior. Aij;ain, Aiciic Amciiea and the regions of Lakes Suiurior, Winipeg, and the 
 lower Saskiitchcwnn have hecn snrvcyed hy the several fJoverinnent expeditions under Franklin, 
 Back and Hichard>on ; bi^ides which the Intirnatioiial Commissioners ran liie line of bonndary in 
 lfci2')'alonj,' the old eanoe ro\ite as fir as the Lake of the Woods. 
 
 Lakf Krplorations. — AW this had been done, and sever il sportsmen and others had penetrated into 
 the'conntrv of tlie SaskatcliewaM previous to 18,')7, when, at the recommendation of the Royal 
 Gco^rapiiical Society, an expedition was dccidcil upon hy Her Majesty's Government for the purpose 
 of exploring the country hclwecn Lake .Superior and the Itocky Mountains, together with the passes 
 to tlie west side. Thi- expedition, initlcr tlir diivetion of Captain Palliser, left Knglantl in the spring 
 of |H.')7 and the several reports of its progrc>s, up to the winter of 18J8 and 1859, will be found in 
 the Parliamentary papers dated June L^.'>!». 
 
 During th nue season (1S.")7), the I 'anadian Ciovernmrnt having granted a sum of money for the 
 purpose.'an I edition was despatched fron\ Canada for the jmrpose of surveying the canoe route 
 between' Lake Siijierior and lied River SetiKincnt, with a stalf of Hienlitic gentlemen and their 
 assistiints, the whole under the superintendence of Mr. <ll,i(lmaii. Tiio work, I believe, was accom- 
 plished satisfactorily, the results of whidi, together with explorations of Mainttdia and Winipegosia 
 Lakes the Assiniboine liiver. part of the south braiieh and Lower Saskatchewan, as well as ii careful 
 Stirvev of the sctllemiut on Red River, wire carried out by Messrs. Dawson and Hind during that and 
 the fi)llowing vear. .\n account of tin. -e expeditions is to be loiind in another blue book, (" Explora- 
 tions of theVoimtry between Lake Supenm- and Red Ri\cr Settlement,"') also dated .Line 18;")9. 
 Moreover, dnriuii the siimnier of l^,")?, a company of Royal Canadian Rilhs proceeded Irom Montreal 
 by ship to Hud-on's Ray. and thence by the n«nal inland navigation to lleil River Settlement, and 
 reports having been calleel for from lacii olHcer of that detaebment. the Conunander of the Forces in 
 Biitish North America is doubtless in pos-essiou of some valuable information concerning that 
 route. 
 
 Cai'tain 1!l.*kisto.\'s Phocuedings, 
 
 Tl 
 
 Gov 
 om 
 
 This bein" the (irnt opporfiinity I h.ive had of making any report direct to Her jVInjesty's 
 
 vcrnmeiitjT shall now give as brief a statement of my proceedings as Is consistetit with clearnesa, 
 uiiiiitiiif all (.bsi rvations of | laces or things tlo results of which have been embodied in the following 
 report, and e(pi;dlv tho-e matters of personal interest or slight importance which would only be intro- 
 duced to enliven the dull monotony of a narrative. 
 
 Appiijutmcnt. — Having been attached at the recommendation of the Royal Society to the exploring 
 •xpediiion under Captain Palliser for the purpose of prosecuting the required magnetic researches 
 and assisting in the geographical (ibjects of the expedition, I recei\ed instructions, dr.'xwn up by a 
 Conunittee of that Societv and saiutioned by the Colonial l)c[)artmcnt, coneeriiing the magnetic 
 desiderata which it miiLiht be in my power to supply. On the '21st of .lune 1^*57, 1 sailed out of the 
 Thames on board the IhuLon's Ray Comp.iny's ship '' Prince of Wales,"' luid alter a seven weeks' 
 vova"e, the latiir part of which, namely in Hudson's Straits and Ray, was mostly through ice, we 
 rciiched York Factory, the seaport of liiipert's Land, at the mouth of Hayes River. 
 
 On landing I was engaged every day for upwards of a week in magiU'tio observationa, the results 
 of which have been discussed by Alajor-Cicneral Sabine, Royal Artillery (see " Rcntarks oti the 
 Magnetic Observations transmitted fron» York Fort on JLidson's Ray in August 1857." — Proceedings 
 of Royal Society, 7th of January 185H), The Hudson's Ray Com[)atiy lijrt containing the only 
 dwellings at this desolate place, 1, in cotnmon with some missionaries and other passengers, sliared 
 the hospitality so readdy allcinled, and it is but justice to say that while living at any of this 
 Company's establishments no charge was ever made, and the gentlemen of the service seemed anxious 
 to rival one another in good oihces towards a stranger. 
 
 Start for the Interior. — Having been supplied with the necessary equipments and provisions, on the 
 31st August I left York Factory, having a passage provided in one of a brigade of six boats which 
 was proceeditig to the interior. An aecount of this voyage (.Vppeiidix I.) having appeared in the 
 Parliamentary papers on Captain Palliser's expedition, I need say no more than that alter 
 travelling 400 miles, in which tlistance 05 portages were made and one house oidy seen, on the 
 20th .September wo arrived iit .Vorway House, a post of the Hudson's Ray Company, situated 
 near the north end of Lake Winipeg. Here, the brigade with which I was travelling being bound 
 for Ri d River, my traps were turned over to another boat, which being manned by " green 
 hands,' was to proceed up the' Saskat<'hi'wan as the " fall boat " in eh.irge e)f an experienced 
 steersman. I remained ou shore for two nights, and the day inte'rvening being taken up in magnetic 
 determinations from sunrise- to sunse't, I was unable to vi.sit the liulian settle'ment of Rossville, under 
 the auspices (jf the Wesleyan Missionary Society, situated on Play Green Lake at a short 
 distance. 
 
 Lake Winipeg, — Starting witli our single boat on the 22d, we camped a few miles short of the 
 
 entrance to 
 the north e 
 heaviness c 
 caused, no 
 the men to 
 roughly. ] 
 
 Canicular 
 reakagi' ol 
 to this shi 
 remainder i 
 the Saskatc 
 
 Grand 11 
 upper end 
 the lower j 
 portage anc 
 
 Saskatclii' 
 of Cross La 
 the ce)untry 
 almost in ai 
 
 Having 1 
 Lake, on th 
 Weather, I ' 
 f'llowing (h 
 queiitly hig 
 where lindii 
 the "jad of 
 already fori 
 above bel'o 
 who were b 
 the gentlen 
 voyage. 
 
 Arrival a 
 of the expc 
 had left »e)n 
 seum'wbat s 
 dition was I 
 to procuic i 
 
 I ne'ed hi 
 my special 
 folio weil wi 
 by some as 
 making all 
 possibly otl 
 
 Jlourli/ (, 
 M. IJourgci 
 in 1853 au( 
 " cxpcditio 
 " station of 
 aid in the w 
 observatory 
 
 Until the 
 observations 
 instruments 
 veiuber wa: 
 the tempera 
 and hygron 
 taking the t 
 with unintc 
 
 The liou 
 at night foil 
 meter, whic 
 no means pi 
 the duty wa 
 " liarel time 
 all the fami 
 lime Mr. Si 
 Company, 
 williugnesj 
 
EXPLORATION OF BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 31 
 
 entrance to Luke Winipcg. The following day, getting a I'air wind, we ran acro:»8 tlic "icatcr part of 
 the north end of tho lake, but were forced to init asliore at the " Tlirce Islands " on account of the 
 heaviness of the sea. We were, moreover, disturbed during the nijilit by the rising of the water, 
 caused, no doubt, by the strong southerly wind lieapiiig it np to this end of the lake, which oblij;e(l 
 tlie men to divest the boat ol" her cargo and liaid her up in the dark, a feat aeconipii^hed rather 
 rougiily. Luckily none of my magnetic instruments, which bel'ore leaving Kiiulauil 1 iiad taken 
 
 Canicular care to secure in the boxes by strips of india-rnbber, siiU'ered any damage; but the 
 reakage of two inoiniiaiu barometers, which could only be carried loose in the stern sheets, 1 attribute 
 to this shaking. Managing to get under weigh about noon the day following, we crossed the 
 remainder of the lake, and canipeil near the foot of the " (Jraiid Kapid," just inside the moutii of 
 the Saskatchewan. 
 
 Grand Itaphl. — IJy the evening of the next day we had succeeded in getting boat and cargo to tlie 
 upper end of the Knpid, which was accoin|ilislied i;i the usual way by hauling the boat by a line up 
 the lower p:irl to the " carrying place," thence transporting the '• pieces " (cargo) over the mile 
 portage and towing the boat by a rop,' up the Kapid under the elills along the south side. 
 
 Susktitchiwan Itivcr, — Some rapids which are shoal at this season of the year occur at either end 
 of Cross Lake; after which Cedar Lake is reached. From this we continued up the Saskatceliwan, 
 the country on either side of w hich is so little clevati'd above the river that it is jiossible to pass in 
 almost in any direction in canoe. 
 
 Having p;is8ed " the Pas" Mission we arrived at Cumbiiliind House, situated on Pine Islaiul 
 Li\ke, on the 4lh of (October, where, alter eigoying a Suiulay of the most lovely " Indian suininer " 
 Weather, I was cond'ortably put up for the night, and we proceeded on our upward voyage the 
 f dlowing <lay. The (ountry becoming gradually of greater elevation ;nul the river banks conse- 
 quently liigher, we arriveil at '• Tort a l.i Corne," l.'i miles below •' tln' forks," on the 15tli t)ctober, 
 wiiere (inding another boat on the point of slaiting foi- up river, we made our way in company I'util 
 the '-'3(1 of October, when we reached FortCarlion, the winter ([narters of the expedition. Ice was 
 already forming along the shore, and it being thought that the boat woukl not reach the next fort 
 above before the closing of the river, the nun with whom I had tr.ivelKd, mostly Norwegians, 
 who were bound for the up|<er posts, were despatched overland. 1 was received by Mr. liardisty, 
 the gentleman in charge, and was installed into eund'ortable (piarters, after a fifty-three days' boat 
 voyage. 
 
 Arrival at ]Viiitcr Quardrs. — Here 1 found M. 15ourgeau, the amiable and hard working botanist 
 of the expedition, the other gentleman being olf on excursions into the country. Caj)taiu I'alliser 
 had left sometime previous on his ri'turn to lied Uiver, en route for the l.'niteil Stales; and 1 was 
 soniewhiit surpi i>ed at limling neithei- letter nor even message liom him. My position on the expe- 
 dition was not defined; I hail work to be done in which assisiance was ri'ciuired, and yet jio authority 
 to procure it. 
 
 I need hardly say that my position was by no means enviabh', but I iU once decided to carry out 
 mv sjjeciid iiistiuctions and interfere in no matters concvrning the expedition. This course I 
 followed without deviation, and alliiough in doing so I may havi' cause<l myself to be looked upon 
 by some as an unwelcomi' addition to the ex|)edition, yel 1 have the saiisi'aciion of knowing that in 
 making all private I'ci'ling succumb to the reijuirenu'iii.s of duty, 1 have carried out that which 
 possibly others more yielding might have failed to accomplish. 
 
 ILmrhi Ohscrviitiims — On the ariival of Dr. Hector and Mr. Sullivan 1 showed them and 
 M. Bourgcau my instructions, in which, referring to hourly observations made on the Arctic coast 
 ill 185.'1 and IS.")-!, this clause occiu's: " It is hojied that, with the aid of some of his colleagues on the 
 •' expedition. Lieutenant IJlakistou may lie able to accom[ilish similar observations iit the winter 
 " Blation of at least three or four mouths' continuance. ' Tluy inuncdiatily expressed their desire to 
 aid in the work; I therefore applied to the gemleman in charge, and the construction of a rouirh 
 observatory was commenced without delay. 
 
 Until the completion of this the greater part of my time was occupied in making the out-door 
 observations, to which the approaching cold weather would jmt a stop ; when, having j'i.\cd the 
 instruments, gone through the necessary adjustments, and everything being ready, on the I'Jth No- 
 vember was connnenced a series of hourly observations of the changes of ilu- magnetic declination, 
 the temperature of the air, and state of the weather, together with six-hourly readings of the barometer 
 and hygrometer; besides the daily self-regisleriiig tlurmometcrs ; M. llourgcau at the same time 
 taking tlie temperature of the ground at the depths of two and three feet daily, which he conducted 
 witii unintcrrupied regularity. 
 
 The hourly series was carried on by n system of watches, each relief during the day being six and 
 at night four hours, the observations being made at the exact minute of time according to a chrono- 
 meter, which I kept regulated by astronomical observations. For the first month the work was by 
 no means pressing, as lour observers took their regular turns; but Dr. Hector leaving at this time, 
 the duty w'as carried on for the next two months by three of ms. I'nluckily it was a winter of rather 
 " hanl times " at Carltoi?, and in I'ebritary the liu't boeon.iiig nuieh reduced in provisions, nearly 
 all die lamilies were sent olf to the plains to shift for themsi'lves near the bulfalo, and at the same 
 time Mr. Sullivan, accompanied by the exjiedition cook, left for another post of the Hudson's IJay 
 Companv. Thus reduced to two, I consulted with M. IJouigeaii, who immediately expressed his 
 williugnesi to devote himself to llic work as long as 1 thought proper for the good of Bcieiicc, For 
 
 D4 
 
 
 ' r 
 
 I i 
 
32 
 
 PAPERS RELATIVE TO THE 
 
 ) 
 
 I i 
 
 ^ 
 
 1 
 
 I 
 
 two montlis, conscqiicntlv, were tlio observations canied on by M. Boni'f^cau anil myself, the inetru- 
 niciits being registered every bour, (lay and nigbt, and it was not until live months were conipielcd, 
 and the snriii-'liDtaiiical collecting coninicneed, that 1 brought the series to a close. 
 
 Credit dill' "to the O/wcrirn?.— Considering that the use of iho magnetic instrument employed was 
 entirely new to the observers, I cannot but say that the greater part of the observations were made in 
 a manner most creditable to themselves, and on the comiilction I addressed a letter to Captain 
 ralliser, which was delivered to him on his arrival from the United States, but which not appearing 
 in the I'arliamcntary papers, I here insert a copy. 
 
 wg,,, " Fort Carlton, Saskatchewan River, April IG, 1858. 
 
 " A scries of hourly ma"nctic and meteorological observations continued uninterrnptedly 
 " ni"ht and day for five months, having been this day brought to sucei ssful termination, I have the 
 " honour to express my tiiaiiks for the co-oporation of the members of the expedition under your 
 " command, who, on my arrival here in your absence, voluntarily niulerlook the work which I had 
 " no power to coniinand. 1 wouhl more particularly mention, for the information of Her M.ijesty's 
 " Government, the untiring zeal manifested by M. IJnurgeau during the whole period, but especially 
 " for the last two months, when he devoted himself to the somewhat arduous undertaking of sharing 
 " the watches with only myself, so as to carry on the series without omitting any of the hours of the 
 " day or night. 
 
 " I have, &c. 
 (Signed) " Thomas Bi.akistov, 
 " John I'alliser, Lsq., " Lieutenant, Uoyal Artillery. 
 
 " Commanding Exph)ring Expedition, &c." 
 
 I also wrote to Major-General Sabine, ('.oprcially mentioning M. Bourgeau, to whom science is 
 so greatly indeblod, thai had it not lieeu for liitn this imjiortant scries of observations could never 
 have been accomplished ; and I do hope, lliat taking into consideration the most complete botanical 
 collection which lias been made by that gcntieniaii, Her Majesty '.s Government will be induced to 
 add a bonus to the scanty allowance which be has received for eacli season'^ work. 
 
 Maf/ihiic Ohfrrvdtiims. — The fire months' lunirly magnetic observations idiove nienlioncd have 
 been discussed by (icneral Sabine in the voluine couei'rning magnetic observations and surveys now 
 in the pres.' ; but having at llie same time made iletermiiiations of the magnetic elements at regular 
 intervals dining the course of the winter and spring, 1 should here observe that the result:: of all my 
 magnelie observations, from Hudson's liay to the Koiky Mountains, will appear in a comple account 
 whicl< I have beiii requested to draw up for the Itoyal Society, after the arrival of the instruments 
 and tlieir verification at the original base station " Kew." 
 
 Mitcorol'fiical OJiscrvations. — 1 have before said the nuteoiological observations were included in the 
 liourly series ; but that terminating on Kith Ai)ril, ibey were ■alterwards kept up three times a 
 day until the expedition left it.s wintir tpiarters in ilie middle of June ; I, however, If ft a thermometer, 
 which was registered by the gentleman in charge and those under him, during summer ami autumn 
 while I wasabstnt; and on my having Carlton for good in Oecember 1^58, i still left it there, and 
 have now reccivid another six months' observations. The climate, therefore, of this sir.tion is likely 
 to be well determined. 
 
 Aslromwiiciil Olisnrntions. — Astronomical observations wire made by ^Ir. Sullivan and myself 
 during the winter and spring f'jr the correct determination oi' the geographical position of l''ort 
 Carlton, and their agreements are as near as can be expected, the latitude being the same, namely, 
 5'2° 52 5 nurtli, and the longitude, dodneeil from lunar distances, — ■ 
 
 Sullivan - - lOC)^ 15 3 we>t (mean of three). 
 
 I'llakiiton - . 1(10'" 2;) 8 „ „ seven;. 
 
 Procerdim/s, Summi'r iif \8')S. — I need say little concerning the ])rocecdings of the expedition 
 during the smniner of 185S, whieli have been described by Cai)iain I'alliser I'see I'arlianicntary 
 papers), it is sufficient fir r.e to meiition that while carrying out his orders, I made magnetic deter- 
 minaiions at iiipiired stallons, and earcl'iilly mapped the eonniry thriniuh whic b I parsed, and having 
 rejoined the expediiion near '-Cache Camp " to the south of theHed Deer Kivcr, we proceeded to the 
 soiilh-ea-t over prairie until Inffalo were fi.und at what I called " Slaughter Camp." Here a 
 council was held, and Captain I'alliser decided on what part of the exploratimis of the mountains was 
 to be uiuleitaken by each individual, and whieb he has detailed in his report, but with the error that 
 h" has siateJ, " Lieutenant l>lakiston to proceed through the mountains by the two known Kootanie 
 " passes, returning by the .■<ouihern one ;" whereas the fact is, the information of the half-breed who 
 was consulted on this part of the mouiiaius was, in his own words, '• lis y en a j)lusieurs des places on 
 " les Koolonaiis sont accouiunics de fiiiv le travel's." At the same be said that he had only crossed 
 by o.ie of these, whiib was that generally used, and among the natives known by the name of " the 
 " Kootmay pa?s." 'fhis known pi^s. theief >ie, Captain I'alli.-er desiiel ine to survey, and 
 determine whether it was wholly in I'.ritish terril.iry; if it proved not to be so, he left it to' myself 
 to endeavour or not, as I ehu.^c, to search lor another north ol it. 
 
 rroposition to vxjdorr r.jn-trd.— At tliis council, which was held on the 2d August, I proposed that two 
 men should be left at the site of I'.ow Fort on How Kiver (at which point the parlies were to 
 separate), for the purpo.-c of constructing a canoe, in whicii, alter returning from the mountains 
 (havii'jj culoulattd the lime rtquiredj, 1 proposed to descend liow Uiver and the toutb branch to 
 
EXPLORATION OF BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 33 
 
 the Forks of tlic Saskatcliowaii, tlierelw Kf'""-? ^ kiiowlc lfj[c of ilic wliole li'nrt'i of tlic livor «>iul 
 tlie country tlirou<;li wliicli it flows. This proposition seemed to be fiivounibis ontertaiiicd at the 
 time, but on tiie following niorninf; I was informed that it was an unknown river ; I need only 
 further say that it is still equally unknown. 
 
 Srparatiuii from Exphriiuj E.rpnlUion. — I wa«, moreover, told (after Imvinj; at last demaiuled to 
 know my position in the expedition), that I was to consider myself under tiio ordi-r of anotlier 
 member ; inuncdlately after makiiifj which declaration, C'ai)tain Palliser rode oil" on an ex[)loralion 
 to the southward, and I accompanied the remainder of the expedition to the " site of JJow Fort," 
 where, after n»ature di-liberation, I wrote a letter (see Parlianu'ntary Paper, June I8.>i)) which I left 
 for Captain Paliiser, wherein I threw off bis conunand; but in order that the objects of the expedition 
 should not be frustrated, I jiroceeded with tlu; exploration which I had previously undertaken, which 
 will be found detailed in a " Report on the I'ixploration of the Kootonay and ]!oun(lary Passes of the 
 " Uocky Moimtains in 18ri8." This, althou<rh in the possession of the Colonial Department, I liavo 
 attnched as an appendix (Ajjpeudix 11.) for the sake of reference. As to the statement of Captain 
 Paliiser with respect to the Kootonay I'ass in his report see I'arliamcutary l'a])ers, June IS.')!)) of 
 %vhich the words are " Lieutenant Plakiston's exploration may, perhaps, have a value hcreaiter as a 
 " corroboration of my own,'' 1 have only to say that unfortunately in his map or description 1 am 
 unable to recof^nize, exc»'pt in its "ineral position, the " Kootonay I'ass," which I had previously taken 
 so much pains accurately to lay ti wu ; and the tone of that statement leaves me under the inipression 
 that it was, perhaps, made but half-inteutionaliy in the basic of writing. It may possibly be some 
 explanation of the course taken by Captain I'alliser, that previous to my separation from him, on 
 11th August IHJ8, I had been altojictber but fourteen days in his company siiuie the expedition 
 left England in May 18.>7 ; and before that we had met so few times that wliatever Captain I'alliser 
 knows of me must be from report. 
 
 livtiirii to EnijUind. — The appendix above referred to and a letter which reached the Colonial Office 
 contain my procecilings till arriving at Carlton at the end of October 1858. Subsequently I travelled 
 during the winter, walking in snow shoes driving a train of dog«, a distance of 800 miles, arriving at 
 Red River Settlement on the 1st of March 1859. Here I remained until I received SirK. 1!. Lytton's 
 reply to mv oner to prosecute further exploration or magnetic survey, after which I took the earliest 
 opportunity on the breaking up of the winter of proceeiliiig by the overland route to Saint Paul on 
 the upper Mississip[)i, ilistaut 5;10 miles from Red River Settlemeut ; after this my travelling was 
 throu^jh civilized parts. 
 
 Contents of Repoht. 
 
 It is not without some degree of hesitation that I now offer this Report, which notwithstanding the 
 labour bestowed upon it, nmst necessarily be very imperfect. It will, nwreovcr, I feel sure fail to 
 give that con ect conception of the state of things that actuidly exists, which it has been my endeavour 
 to ponrtray ; but such as it is, I have arranged as follows : — 
 
 iff^or/.— Section A. Physical features. 
 
 „ Natural productions and climate. 
 
 „ IJ. Inhabitants, present state, missions, &c. 
 
 „ C. Devi'lopment of resouiccs. 
 
 „ 1). Futiue government and colonization. 
 
 Appmdix. — .Appendix I. " Report on the route between Hudson's Bay ami Liiko Wimipeg."' 
 
 „ II. " Report on the exploration of the Kootonay and Uoutulary I'asses of the 
 Rocky Mountains in 1858." . 
 
 
 )f 
 
 SliCTION A. 1. 
 
 PllVSICAL FlCATLUES. 
 
 Gt'iirral Fi'(ilim'.i, North Amirlca. — The continent of Ncutli America is divided into several great 
 basins, determineil bv the general slopes of the surface and coiisc(puM)t direction of the How of its 
 waters, of which the liritish or northern portion comprises almost the whole ot that draiiud to the 
 north and north-east, as well as a part of the western or Pacific slope. Besides these water systems, 
 the great features which influence the climate and the progress of civilization are, first, a continuous 
 chain of nunuitains running through the whole length of the continent, dividing it laterally 
 into two distinct portions,— the warm chaldron of the Gulf of Mexico to the south, with a counter- 
 balancing reservoir of ice penetrating deeply into the 'northern part of the continent; and lastly, 
 those extensive inland sheets of fresh water commonly called " The (Jreat Lakes." In an extra- 
 tropical continent thus formed, it would be natural to expect a very varied climate, aw\ such heiiig 
 actually the case, we find consecpieiitly in a comparatively short distauce great diversity in the habits 
 and occupations of the inhabitants. 
 
M 
 
 PAPERS RELATI\r TO THE 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 / 
 
 4, 
 
 Till- Inttrittr. As tl)is report purports to trcnt only of the intprior of Urilish Nortli America, 
 
 I shall coiidiii- iiivM'lf to 11 ^ri-iionil sk. ich of llif i)hysual feniiiros of that country, which, to speak 
 Hunonillv, mav hi' thus divide'l : — 
 
 I. nic northern or Arctio hasin. '-'. Hudson's Hay. .'l. The (Vntral Plains. 4. 'I ho Uocky 
 Mountains. 3. Tiu' Pacific Mope ; and iri'anadii "cro included it would lie a sixth, the St. Lawrence 
 basin. Thcv ■"'"i' "'1 «" distinctly marked that then- names at once almost delinc tluin. Aj^tilu, 
 hi(^kin" at die country from a jreojoijical point of view, the fnst point that must strike the attention 
 U tliMt^ at an averaiie distance of KXt or ITid fieofiraphieal miii s from the south aii'l west shores of 
 lIiidsDii's llav commences a distri( i of priinilive formation, and which, when defined on a map, 
 aiipears as a ^'reat he ( or hand of from l.')0 to '-'<»('• miles in width, coming' from tin northern part ot 
 Canada east,'"skirtinij the up])er (Iriat Lakes, cui vinj; round to Lake Winipei:, and thence lakinjj; a 
 norih-easterlv direction, rea( hiiif,' the Arctic Sea in the rejjion In twcen the I'oppermine and llaek'rt 
 tireat Pish Uiver. In this ■,'raiiiH' axis, as it shoidd perhaps he called, hut innstly on its western 
 edi^'C, lie the principal lakes of the interior, c(unmencinfi with Winipeu, wlios«> eastern and western 
 »horis, apuroaeliini; within two iiules of one .mother, exhihit on the one hand secondary, and on the 
 other primarv rock. Deer Lake, .\lhab;isc,i, Slave, and Orcil liear Lakes carry on the cminexion 
 to till' Arctic Se;i. where Coidiiation (Jnlf occurs, It is n peculiarity of tin- helt that no rivers run 
 interrni)teillv tliriui}.'h if, and the water is so dammed up that the whole country is intersected with 
 nundjerless lakes. It is almost needless to say that this tract is extremely ro< ky. The jjeological 
 natiu-e of the country interveninfj hetween this harrier and Hudson's Hay is favonrahle, hut the 
 intlucnce of that icy >ea on the climate is such that we must class th ' whole ol' that refjion as most 
 inhospitahle. 
 
 Oiifrnl I'laiiis. — Beyond this primary belt, and limited on the west hy the el nin ot thi' Kooky 
 Mountains, is an exten^ive rciiion of secondary torniation, throni^h the northern part of which (lows 
 the Macken/ie, the trreater part of the valley of which river, from its .\rctic situation, heiriij unlit for 
 pa-tura^iC an<l worthless for aj^ricultural |)urposes, tluTe only riMnains the country between Lake 
 \\ inipei;. the Uocky Moinitains, and forty-ninth parallel, to which we can look as all()rdin;r soil and 
 climate adapted for settlement hy a civill/ed eonmninity ; ami it is to this area, iucludinij also that 
 portion hetween the wi'stern houndary of ( 'anada and Lake AVinipej», to which in this Keport I would 
 most particularly draw attention. It is this district, I may obseive, which (ills the gap between 
 Canada and Mntish Cohnnbia, and may before lonj; he recpiired to complete the chain of depen- 
 dencies of the liritish Crown, stretching from the Atlantic to the Pacific. 
 
 Many would divide the central plains which occii[)y the greater part of the country just mentioned, 
 und are hut the northward extension of thi' high plateau in the territory of the P^nited States west ot 
 the .Mi.ssissippi, between the .\rctic l)a.sin and thiit of Hudson > Hay, becaiist' of tin' rivers which (low 
 through them ulti.nately find their way to the north and north-east, i cannot, however, ilo this: but 
 must consider the irrcat central plains as a distinct district, having the '""leral form of a triangh', ol' 
 which the 4!)th parallel (international boundary), from the Uocky NIonntains to the Lake of the \\ oods, 
 forms the base, while the apex is to the north of Peace River, near latitude (U)". This is also in 
 accordanct with the views of Sir Alexander Mackenzie, the greatest Xorth American traveller at the 
 end of the last century, and who, in speaking of the tract usually ealle<l the " barren 
 " grounds'' gives as its southern limit a line " from Churchill (Hudson's nay)along the 
 " north border of Deer Lake to the north of the Lake of the Hills (Lake Athabasca) 
 " and Slave Lake, and along the north sideof tiie latter to the Uocky .Mountains, which ti'rminate in 
 " the North ,Sea. latitude 70^ north, and longituile IS')° west, in the whole extent of which no trees 
 " are visible, except a few stunted ones scattered along its rivers, and with scarce anything of smfiue 
 " which can be called earth; yet this inliosj)ita'ile region is inhab'ted by a people wh(j are aeciis- 
 " tomed to the life it re(|uires," and which has been so distinctly confirmed by later travellers. In 
 connexion with this subject is the " limit of perpetually frozen giound," north of which the subsoil 
 never thaws: its general direction is much the same as that of tliu " barren groinuU," but considerably 
 to the southward, namely, froai the southern extremity of Hudson's Hay, touching the north end of 
 Lake Wiiiipeg, and thence taking a north-westerly direction. These climatic liiu's have been 
 marked on the map No. I. 
 
 Arctic Itei/iuiis. — To despatch in a few words the north and north-eastern portion, properly called 
 the .\rctic Uegions, we see that the greater part is included in the "barren groinids," and besidis 
 the Mackenzie is (lraine<l hy Hack's Great Pish Uiver and the Coiiperiniiie, both (lowing into the 
 Arctic Sea ; the more southern and western part of the country is however wooded, as is, I believe, 
 the whole length of that noble stream, the Mackenzie, except at its most northern parts. The climate 
 is cold in the extreme, and a consiilerable porticm of the country is within the Arctic Circle. The 
 inhai)itanis are l'Ls(iuiinaux, Chipweyans, and some Crecs in the south. The trading estjd)lishments 
 are kept up on deer, meat, and fish, with potatoes and barley, which are grown at some posts. The 
 8up|)lies and returns of the fur trade are annually transported in boats, but there not l)eing time for 
 tlioai' belotiging to Mackenzie's River to go to and return from Lake Winljieg, cargoes are exchanged 
 at " Portage la Loche," between the English and Athabasca rivers, in latitude o<i^ north, with a 
 brigade sent from the depot. 
 
 Iliuhoiis Bay. — Again, the region around Hudson's Bay is generally of much the same character 
 as the wooded portion of the Arctic regions, but owing to the Ibrmation of the country, causing so 
 many rocky obstructions in the rivers, the extent to which the country is in many parts submerged 
 is alino-it incredible, except to one who has witnessed it. Few of the rivers, of which there are imuiy, 
 a;e ii.ivigible lor anyiliinu' larger than boats, and it i.-> with tiie greatest ditticuliy that even these are 
 got through many parts (see Appendix 1.) 
 
 CliiiKific 
 
 DivisKlll.'l. 
 
 The tiinl 
 
 t )! eour.si 
 sca, but as 
 who have li 
 
 In this d 
 Pactory, tla 
 
 'I'heri' is 
 mouth of tl 
 of water in 
 in the mout 
 interior, is 
 north, at tli< 
 days of the 
 
 'I'he depi' 
 I'"actory, at 
 being direc 
 to the interi 
 
 .Numerou 
 object than 
 
 H'iuipi'r;,- 
 I'lains, with 
 
 This di-l 
 width of 75i 
 inMiann;d at 
 Indian, and 
 the part of 
 ac(jnaiuied. 
 
 Between 
 level eoiint 
 itilo British 
 formation o 
 shore, and < 
 the mass of 
 geological 
 Uiver to I 
 successive 
 the sea. 
 
 Si)eakin^ 
 portion is 
 of .Maiiitobi 
 longitude 1 
 generally p 
 southern p( 
 '.uwards the 
 which havi 
 
 The ext. 
 the north o 
 on Peace I 
 except at tl 
 
 The prai 
 black inoni 
 in the Unit 
 the dry ari 
 the line th' 
 the (by pi 
 praii'it', wh 
 land, whici 
 table soil, 
 are genera 
 considerab 
 greater or 
 
 Crossing 
 are the rise 
 nmimting ( 
 have been 
 shown in tl 
 
KXTLOUATION OK HUITISir NORTH AM KRICA. 
 
 3:» 
 
 'I'lif timliiT is siuiill uikI 8tiiiili!il, jmrticiiliirlv in iln' vicinity dI'iIic \n\y. 
 
 1)1 ('i)ursf, Janii'H' Hay luin^ tlu' most Hoiiiluiii, is ilic nio't siiliil)rii)iH portion ol" tlii.s gront inliuul 
 .■•ea, l)iit as I iiiivc no pcrnonal knowlrli^i' of iliat |i;nt, I l.iivi! "tin' iiilDiiiuition j;.iini'il IVdUi [KTsons 
 wlio liavc livi'd tiicri'. 
 
 In llii". (Ii>iii(t, on llu' >iioi'c ol liii.l^ini'-. II:ii :ii tlic iiioiitii of Haws an. I iNflsoii ii\ir<, i, York 
 I'Mctory, till' nival (if|)ol of the Hudson'^ May l'oiri[)any lor llii; inlanil trade, 
 
 'I'Iktc is a road ont'^i.if, wliicli is, liowovcr, niiu'li cxijosi-d, liut a ^afc aU(lioraj,'c i-xisis in.sidc the 
 Mioiilii of tlic lornuT river for a liiniti'd number of vt-.>els, not drawinj; niori; than I ."» feel (tiie deplh 
 of water in ihc l>ar), and I have lilile dould tliat a harliour lor vessels of larj^i' size wonlj l)t. found 
 in llie nioulh of N'elson lliver, wliieii beinj; \\\f onilei of the S.iskatehewan and other rivt'rs of the 
 interior, is of iari^e si/.e. Then' is also another post on tiie wi si ^idc o| iIh' liay, hat mine to the 
 north, at tiie mouth of l',ntj;lish lliver. 'I'hii is I'ort ('hurehiil, ,i piaee of iinportanee in the early 
 days of the I'ur trade. 
 
 Ihe depot fur the southern departim-nt, which a vessel of ahout ;">()() tons annii illy visits, is .\loo-ii' 
 I'aetory, at the soudiern extremity of ,hinii's' liay, of the <'oiiutry aiound whieli I am ijfnorani, hut 
 hein;^ directly north of iind not far ri'moveil from the eonfmcs of L'aniida, niaiters iittle with reij;ard 
 to the interior. 
 
 .Numerous trading posts are scattered ihrou diout this thickly wooded region, hut with no othci 
 object tiian the proaecutiou of the fur trade. 
 
 WiNIPUfi, 
 
 IVinipi'fi. — In referring; to this remainiuj; district, I have as yet oidy spoken of it as the Central 
 Plains, without reference to its rivers, lakes, or mountiiins. 
 
 This distri(!t contains ahout :iH(t,()(t() s(|uaro miles, or extendiii;^ in latiiiide 7", witli a general 
 wi<llh of 750 miles, is as hir^'e as l''rance ;ind Spain totfciher, ami i-- the portmn ol" country which, 
 tinnained at present, I have preferred to call after its principal lake " Winipey." The word i-; Crec 
 Indian, and as with most of their niimes, is descriptive of liie lake " Muddy water." This being 
 the part of the interior likely to bo of use for civilization, and beinji that witli which I am moat 
 Hcquaintod, I propose to treat of it somewhat in detail. 
 
 Hetween the valley of the Mississippi and the IJocky Mountains is a large c'Xtont of elevated and 
 level country which is now- generally called the ''High Central Plains. '' These plains extending 
 into Hritisii territory, constitute the country of which wi' have now to s])enk. Leaving the (primary 
 formation on the cast sliori' of Lake \Vinipeg, a secondary limestone is vi-ible ah)iig the entire western 
 shori', and on the Ked Ivlver, and this nnist extend wtstward, but very little is seen of it owing to 
 the mass of " drift '' which covers the cinintry as fir as the mountain-, which coiisi'ipicntly is the 
 geological natiu'e of these jilains, which extend witiiout break from Lake Winipeg and the Red 
 lliver to the Kocky Mountains, ()eing at their eastern extremity a little <iver (KHI, and rising by 
 
 succi'ssive steps until at the base of the mountains tiii'V havi 
 the sea 
 
 m altitude of I,(H)() feet above 
 
 t: .tea. 
 
 Speaking generally, the nature of the soil of these jjlains is ^andy. and almo.'.t the entiie soutliern 
 portion is prairie, trees only occurring in the rivei' bottoms. Uut north ol a lino from the south t-nd 
 of Maiiitoba Lake, running towards the forks of the .Saskatchewan, and following the north i)ranch to 
 lonifitude 1 1 1"^ west, and afttr this sweeping soiith-we,-t to tlu' Uiu'ky .Mountains, the country is 
 gonerallv partially and in parts thickly wooded, =m,ill aspen lnjing the common tree, but in the more 
 southern portion the oak and elm flourish, while the si)rnce and pine are only found in patclusexcept 
 tuwiirds the north. There is usually a good depth of soil in the wooded portions and on thosi' prairies 
 which have oriiiinally been forest laud. 
 
 The exti nt of this kind of coinitry northward I am iniabie exactly to defnie, but the region to 
 the north of the Saskatchewan is not, as ha^ 'ocen stilted, alloi:ether thiik lorcsls, for there are prairies 
 on Peace lliver in latitude 5(i° north, so that we may presume tiiat the partially wooded country, 
 except at the l)ase of tlie Ilocky Mountains, has consiilerable range in a north-westerly direction. 
 
 Tin; prairies arc of two kinds, the ' aralile '' and the "dry," the former having a good depth of 
 black mould, while the soil of the latter is usually limited to two (n- three indu'S. The arable |)rairie 
 in the United States is found to extend throughout the valley of the .Mi-sis!,ippi, but west of that 
 the di'y arid prairie extends without inti'rruption to the Hocky Mountains. On the Lritish side of 
 the line the same dillerence exists, the arable prairie being coidined to the bain of lied lliver, «hile 
 the dry prairie extends west to the mountains. liut besides these tsvo there is another kind of 
 prairiej which, for sake of distinction, 1 call ' Willow Praiiie," it was [probably originally wood 
 land, which being by the continual prairie llies cleared of trees, there now remains a fine vege- 
 table soil, on which vetches and plants ol' th.it kind flourish, besides the grass, while some willows 
 are generally found, often very small, i)ut after the alisence of fire for some years, they grow to 
 considerable si/e. Along the edge of the line of woods is usually a belt of this willow land of 
 greater or less wiilth, but often separating the trite prairies from the woods by some miles. 
 
 Crossing this generally level district there are what are called "Coteaus," which, in my opinion, 
 are the rises of the successive steps of the plains as they gain altitude, and in travelling westward, on 
 mounting one of these coteans, you do not again desceiul but continue at a higher level. They may 
 have been coast lines of the sea at dillereiu periods of submersion, llie effects of which are so clearly 
 shown in the '-river levels" which have been described in Appendix U. 
 
 : II 
 
 '\ 
 
 I 
 
 ' 5 
 
 I , 
 
 S I.- 
 
 J 1 
 
 ^ ■ - 
 
86 
 
 PArEIlS RELATIVE TO THE 
 
 1| 
 
 f 
 
 t 
 
 
 7?,)<7<// M<m„f„hi.<-'r\w llocky Moimtaiiis loiiniii},' tin- wcsicin boiiiidrtry ot llio pinliis «!i'«onl)c.l, 
 »u.vi« ft"^fiitial (liiittion !.-.N.\V. and S.S.K.., »n.l aif clia.aclfri/.o<l by n K«vat ahioiic.. ol prumiiu'iil 
 i,i.'ik« luiiii: in liu't ^flu-rally .» ninnlur ol' paiallil ridfi.v- «.ili ii.t.Tv. mnu valloys I l.cy n|.|.fnr to 
 rii'ul'i'llifii Ui'iiti''' lui^ilit, i:>,(MM) 10 Ki.OdO I'crl, ahont latilmli- .VJ° noitli, wliicli also K-oin* to be 
 tlii'ir br.iadi'st imrt nortli of 49'. « , . . , ■ .. i ■ 
 
 'I'lii' lini' or«aUi>liid, as lai- as latiliidi- 'jl" nnitli, is near tin- tasteni rdp", liiit Ironi llicnco noilli 
 it >,.ii)s to Iiiid nioiv to thf «i-uvar(l. and at llir m-vitmI j)laa-s wluif it lias lurn cro-std is ni-arly 
 of tlic -aiuf aililiidi', vi/., from ft.dOO to (!,(100 fit I al)ovi' tlif sia liv.l. To llu' xonlli of oT, liut 
 iiailicuiailv near till' inlii national bom.daiy, iIk' ian>,'i' is vitv nanow, not ovit K) niiirs in width. 
 It is 11 inaikalili' tliat no jiiiniitivi- lork lias Imii found in llii-si' mountains bi'twton .5'J' north and 
 llif lioundarv, wliilo it ixi>l> in the la-cadr rniif,'!- of Uritisli C'olumliia, hiiur wo may infix thai it is 
 not i.rol.ahlc' that jiold will hr found en tlii'ir .asti'rn sidi-. _ .,,,,. 
 
 (hviii" to ihi' Linat ailitiiiU' of lh<' I'lains tl.o mountains do not ajipcar ol any ronsuK lahlo cli'vation 
 whin -trii from dio lasi ^ld^•, and it is a fait that most of llu- wisti-rn an- much nioro jiriTiiiitouo 
 
 than till' lastiin sloius. ,..,., ,. i • • n • ■ 
 
 'Ihi'ti- mountains, in thi' jiait ol which I s|uaK. niv fjiiurally, iscopt nt thiir sumnntf", will womhil ; 
 but owiu" to thi> cliinati- tlif ^mowiIi of thi' trtvs is inl'iTior on tin- laiiirn dii-livity, while from 
 Slime otliiT cause the lloia of tlie two sides is (iiiiie distinct. IVrpelual snow only rests on some of 
 the hi'dur peaks; hut duriii}; the smuniir falls of snow occur, but tiie snow (hits not lie long; a small 
 glacier or two liavi' heen sei'ii. 
 
 Jdicii. Of the rivers of the distiict, I'esides the Athabasca, a trihiitary of thi* Mackenzie, up 
 
 which boats can he pu-lml to Jasper's House in the Hocky Mountains and the Assinilioiiie and its 
 trilintarifs, which can lmr<lly he said to he lit hir anylhinji hut canoes, there remain Hed River of 
 the ninth, ririiii; near tiie Mississippi, 'Jt<() mile* south of the boundary, and runninj; into Lake 
 \\ iniiiei; and tlie SaskaK Ik wan, dischaifiinir into the north end of the came lake the waters of the 
 Hockv Mountains. '1 h' - two diller con.siderahly, the former heinj,' slujijiish and diep, while the 
 latter is swift ami shallow. 
 
 Jldl ]{i'vir,— ]U(\ Itiver camiot in lenjith be compared with tlie Saskatchewan, hut for the present 
 iiiteiesis of the interior it is of more importance than the other. It is somewhat tortuous, but is 
 n;ivi"ahle for -mall >teaiueis from Lake Winipc;; a considerable distance into the territory of the 
 Vnired Males, and 1 have just heard that a steam-boat, which was built by some Americans last 
 winter, arrived at lied Hivei' Settlement on its first trip on the lOth of .lune last. 
 
 This river rises with the breakinjr up of the ice, which occurs from the beginning to the end of 
 April, and on two occasions during the memory of the settlers has risen so high as to Hood the 
 whole country, destroying houses, cattle, and human life. It gradually begins to fall in June, and is 
 lowest in the autumn. 
 
 Sadatcliiu-dii Itivrr. — The Saskatchewan, unlike the river just described, obtains nearly the whole 
 of its water fiinn the moimtains, and has consetpienlly little or no sjiring (lood, but begins to rise 
 fnm the lOih to 15th of .lime, with the melting of the snow at those high elevations, ronlinuing 
 liij;li tor six wicks or so, and begins to subside again in August ; as the cool wiuther comes it 
 falls rapidly. 
 
 Xdvii/alii'ii. — Taking either binnch of this river, it is navigable for boats from Lake AVinipeg to 
 mar the base of the Uocky MountaiiiB, a distance of about 1,'J0() miles, but for steam navigation the 
 river is but ill adapted, and 1 am glad to say that I was fortuiiote to travel on it from its mouih to 
 roil KdiiionloM, l.ntlO miles up, at a time of year when I saw the water at its lowest, otherwise 
 I niii;ht have li)riind niii-t erroneous impressions. Commencing at its mouth, there is a good entrance 
 finm Lake Winiiieg, and a safe and sheltered harbour inside ; just above this, however, is the foot of 
 a laige and siiong rapiil above '2^ miles in length, caused by the breaking of the river through 
 a holt of limestone, this is called the (jrand Rapid, and is a barrier to the ascent oi' loaded boats, 
 which the ill St mile anil a half are hauled or "tracked" up in half cargo, and lor the remainder or 
 strong part of the rapid are entirely discharged, the cargoes b'ing carried over the mile portage on 
 the north side, and the boats themselves hauled up along the south shore uiiiler the limestone 
 dill's. In making the descent the boats arc "run" with full cargo, but not without some risk of 
 sinking rocks or stones. For a description of the kind of boat, number of men, cargo, and other 
 particulars, see ' Rejiort on the Route between York I'actory and Lake Winipeg," Appendix I. 
 
 The worst part of the rapid for steamboat navigation is the lower half, in which the water is 
 shoal the whole way across. As for the upper part, although very strong, a steamer might 
 perhaps be warped up. 
 
 'i'his is the greatest, and supposed by many to be the only rapid in this river, it having been 
 stated in the House of Commons, on apparently good authority, that "with this one exce})tion you 
 " could take a vessel of considerable size up to the foot of the Rocky Mountains." This is, however, 
 far from being the case. 
 
 About five miles above the tlraud Rapid, during which distance the river ia nearly half a mile wide» 
 Cross Lake is entered, between some inlands where there is a considerable cm'rent; at the western end 
 of Cross Lake, and between that and Cedar Lake, there are some small rapids, which, during high 
 water, may peiliaps be passed, but in the fall of the year boats have to discharge the greater part of 
 their carj^oes. Cedar Lake (as will be seen by the map) is one of considerable size, containing 
 numerous islands, and about it is timber available for building purposes, which may also be said of 
 the country east to lake Winipeg. The south side of this lake is only separated from Winipegosis 
 
 i -i 
 
EXPLORATION OF BRITISH NORTH AMKRICA. 
 
 87 
 
 Lnkc by n littlo over four inili'H of IuikI, and wlit-ro my winter tro'''\ U shown ns pasHiiiff ncronH in llic 
 '♦ Mossy I'orti^;!'," Ibinii-rly used liy tin- liouU of the Swan lUvvr dintrict ol tlie I'lir tiadi' in j<oinj; 
 to mid Iroiii lliiiison's Itay. 
 
 Lake NViniiH'^iosiis has iM'cn di-ti'iniiiii'd to bo four feet above Cedar f.ako in the spriiifj, but in 
 pa.Htin^ over as I did, without time to measure it, 1 was uudcr the iin|ir('ii:iiuii that C'liiar Lake wai 
 niucii till- lii^'iii'r. 
 
 To roiilimii- tiie Saskatoliewaii Uivcr Cor llic next IhO miles or so, to tin- loot ul' 'I'hobon':! Hapid, 
 just above the " Moscjiiito I'oiiit," ouinp; to the very U-vel and low country ijirou;;!! wiiicli it Mown, 
 is tortuous, ami lor aliout 70 niiles weiit of (.'eilar Lake tlic waters are divided into two channels, 
 one passing mar Moom; Lake, wiiih' liie otiier run.-< tiiroiiiih Mmhiy Lake, in tlie centre ol' wliieh 
 tlicre is at low water a small rapid. 'I'lu- northern channel is snmi'what lonj^er, and alter they unite 
 the river continnes ol' con.siileralile depth, |)asMn^ south of Pine Island or Cnmlierland Lake, with 
 which it is connected by streams navii,'al)le for boats, and into or out of which the waters How 
 according tu the height of the nmin river. 'I'lirougli this lake is tiiu route to Englisii Uiver uud 
 the north. 
 
 Thobon's Uapid is certainly not navigable for sti'aniers at low watiT, and I should much doid)t if it 
 were even at hijili, but the dillerence caused by the slate of the water in a rajiiil is so great that 
 it is hardly s:ife to give an opinion. Kroiii this the elevation of the country Ix'giiis, and there is no 
 rapid until the Nepowewin, about MO miles below " the Toiks ; " but I should think that at high 
 Water till'' wiiuld be capable of being suriiiouiited. 
 
 'I'lins, ill summing up the Lower Saskatchewan Uiver, itr Saskatchewan below '.lie Forks, we may say 
 that at high water a steamer could run from Cedar Lake to 'I'hobon's Kapid, and from thence to tlcj 
 l'"orks. 'I'here are, however, a good many shoals, sand bars, or " batte<'.;s,'' as they are called by the 
 Voyagers, below " I'einmican I'oint.'' Of tin- south branch I know little, except by report. It is of 
 a strong current and stony bolloiu near its niouth, and after that '•batti'iirs" are numerous to 
 within a .short distance of the juiu'iion of Ued Deer's Kiver, the former site of Chesti'rlield House, 
 and it is said by the few persons who have ascendeil it in boats to be navig.ible for steamboats during 
 high sunmu'r water. 
 
 For some miles above the Forks the north brandi is obstructed by a iieces'-ion of small • ipids, 
 usually called the " Col Ilapids," this part is certainly impassable for laij j craft during low water, 
 i)Ut those who have seen these rapids in high wati-r think there would be ro obslriiction o a steam- 
 boat. l'"ioin the head of these rapids the bed of the river is lilli'd with batteurs o' sand i^ars as far 
 as the monili of Vermillion Crei'k. about '2't miles above Fort Fitt, after which tht: bottoir is usually of 
 a strong nature, which continues to I'ort Fdmonton, some distance below wh,. h there ; . • small ra;' Is 
 and shoal places in the fall of the year. Of the distance to which a steamer would ascend in r;li 
 water 1 can give no po-itive information, but I should supprse that one .idapled for that H'. ; d" 
 navigation might possibly reach Fort Fdmonton, but in low water little could be accompli.- !,eu in 
 most parts. 
 
 This river is usually chjsed witii ice for five months from the second week of " n-. ilier to the 
 Becoiid week of April, but ot C(nirse becomes navigabli' much sooner than the l,ike> whic . jire never 
 clear ol' ice until .lime. On the whole it can hardly be coiisidereil as a river oireiini;- much advantaue 
 to steam navigation, on account ut its small si/e in comparison to its length, which need not 
 appear so extraordinary when we consider that it runs through a great extent of level plain.?, from 
 which it receives no waters, there being a remarkable absence of tribntaiiis. In fact the 
 Saskatchewan does not drain the plains, but travi r>e-) the country as a canal fed from the Kocky 
 jMonntaiiis, it may tlierelore be said to have no basin, and conseipiently " ilie fertde valley of the 
 " (ireat .Saskatchewan, containing an nnlimiled extent of arable land," really does not i-xist. The 
 water ol the .Saskatchewan, except near the mountains, is very earthy, especially during flood, and 
 helpa to give to Lake \\ini[U'g its expressive name. Many of those persons who "summer inland," 
 as it is called, that is remain at the forts during the voyaging sea>oii, aio alVected more or less 
 with the goitre, which is attiibuti'il to the water. From the Forks upwards the river is generally in 
 a deep nariow valley about "JOI* feet below the level of tlu' surrounding country, and in many 
 parts having precipitous banks. 1 ascertained the current at Fort Pitt during high water to be two 
 and a half knots per hour, but during spring and fall it woul 1 ir \-.'.ost parts probably not ex"i:ed 
 two miles. 
 
 'Ihe fall of the north branch, as determined by barometric observations, is from Edmonton to 
 Lake \Vinipeg, including the (irand Hapid, at an average of l"f feet |)i r statute mile, but the rise 
 above Fort Edmonton is ]n'obably much greater. Of the sonth, branch there are no observations 
 between its mouth and the site of How Fort, which, taking tV.- wliole, would give a fall of 4 feet per 
 mile, but of course it would be greater than that in the ■ ,iper anil much less in the lower parts; 
 however, taking its tributary, the lle<l Deer Kiver at it-, fr./ks, would give from thence to the forks of 
 the .Saskatchewan an average of nearly three I'ei'l per mile. We may therefore sal'tly suppose that 
 the fall of the south branch from the site of Chesterfield or its forks to its jiinctioii with the north is 
 not over '2 feet per inile, and this is what my observations givi' on the fall of the north branch from 
 Fort Pitt in the same lonjiitude as the site of (,'lKSter(iekl House to the iuiietion. Alter a fi'W davs 
 of warm weather during summer the river is sure to ii.se, owing to the increased melting of the snow 
 in the mountains, and in spring, should the ice ebuj\e in any part when running, it causes 
 considerable rise above that point. The thickness of ice in mid-winter is from three to four feet. 
 
 Boats ami Stianil/onts. — With regard to the navigation of any part of a river, it is not to be thought 
 that because boats iiave considerable dlttieulty it would be impassable for steamers, for boats are, when 
 "tracking," limited to a certain distance from the bank by the length of the line, while steamers can, 
 if required, keep mid-channel. Cord wood for the use of steamboats would be procurable at rJniost 
 
 F 
 
 . ) 
 
 li 
 
 
 ill 
 
38 
 
 PAPERS RELATIVE TO THE 
 
 J 
 
 f 
 
 i 
 
 anv i)iirt of the Lower Sn>k;itclu'waii and north hraiich. lint thi'iv will iiiohahiy [)e I'ouinl to be a 
 si-iiiTitv nil the Miutii: it however I'.jiild he ralieil down t'roni near tiie mountains. 
 
 /_„/,,< 'I'lii- lakes are a <ireat t'ealme in tin' eastern jiart ol' this <li>tiiit, anil trom their eoin]iarative 
 
 shallowness iiiav he eiilisiileri'il the lowest of the unat .-lips ol which this eoniitrv is made up. 
 'I'lii' iirineipal ones, ami wiiieh nre eoniueieil with eaeh other, are \Vinipeij;, Slanitoha, and 
 ^\ iiiipeuiisis or Little W'inipei;. Owiii;:- to the levil ol tiie eoiitilrv to the wt'sl of the lirst and 
 siirroiiiidim.' the other-, ihiv are of virv irre<jular forms, and tiiis is so much the easi' to the north of 
 those I'liniiieiated that the whole eonntiy alioiil (^uniherlaiid anil '• the I'as " is nolhinn hut eonneeted 
 lakes and swainrs, verv eoiiveiiieiil for eaiioe travihini,^ in ,-iimmer. as well as iuiiiL; a great resort for 
 ninltitiules of waterfowl, in thi' uppei ]>arts of the eonntrv the laki's are detached, althoi'jjh in some 
 parts pretty numerous, and are imistly valuable as (i^hin..:- placts. 
 
 The altitude of Lake W'inipeii; is found to l)e hut a [\\\ U et above Lake Superior, Iiaving been 
 determined hv the C'anailian surveyors to be tV-W leel above the sea. Manitoba is sonu'wiiat above 
 it, aiitl there is s.iid to be a dilleiciiee of live leel in I'.isonr of \\'inipeL;or,is over the latter. 
 
 The i;reate-t depth of Lake W inipeu as far as yet a-eertaiiU'd is (id. while Manitoba is merely 
 L") to L"^ feet, and with ,i jieiier.illy level bottom, the reinaiiiing one diHeiing- very little, except at 
 its upper end, where it is said to be deep. 
 
 A.— II. 
 N.\riiiAi. I'lioDL'criD.ss. 
 
 The natural pioduetions ot' a tract ot' eouiitry of such extent as the interior of Ih'itish \ortli 
 America mav readilv be suppusid to bi' very vaiied. but various a> tiny are. they may be all classed 
 under the threi^ head- -Miner.il, Veuet ,ble. and .\uimal. 
 
 Minrrnh. — Lrom our impertect knowli'dije of the greater portion of the country in a gi'olojiical way, 
 little can be said in relation to its minerals ; but to eohimenci' with the metal-. The province of 
 Columbia ami her uolil lieKls not cumiiiLr under the appellation of "the interior." 1 e.innot record the 
 existence of gold in any part of the coiiiitry. iind the ueolouical strueture of tlii' western portion 
 is far trom iioldinu onl any pro-picts in that w.iy. Of conise tliere havi- been here as else- 
 where reports of the discovery of gold in cerlaiu [ilaei's. but, as is ol'ii n unlbrtunalely true, all 
 glitteiiii!.!; substances are not gokl. 
 
 Sir Jolni Uiciiardson's ".iDurnal ot a lioat N'oyagt" ' I'oniaiii- the gri'ater pari of the reliable infor- 
 mation concerniui:' the miner.il resoiiici'> nl'tln' nortii. and iVoin that and oilii'i tateineiits from actual 
 observation «e gain the tdilowing inlnraiation : — that both copper and mulaihite exist in the region 
 of the Coppi'r .Mine I'iver in sulHcieiit ijuantilies to pay the working in lime to come when the 
 soulherii porlion of the coini try becomes peopled, prixiiling that dependence can be placed on an 
 uninterrupted summer of siitlicieiit length : that plumbago is found on Laki- Alliabiisca, as will as 
 iron and mineral pili'ii, which latter is in almmlanee. and will probably be for many years of more 
 use than any of the otiieis. 
 
 Again, «illi rt?peil to >all, iK.-ides that statid to be found in " a very pure ■-late near Great 
 Slave Lake." llierc are miiiieroiis salt ,-pring> on the borders nf Lakes .Manitoba and \\ inipegosis, 
 some of which are now worked to advantage and used at '■ the .sittleiiient '' on Ued Ki\er. Kveii with 
 the primitive nuHle in u>e salt of a very l.iir (piality is inaiinlactioi d, and tVom the report "f Professor 
 Hind, will) geologically examined that district, tlu're is every reason t'l su[ipose that salt could be 
 produced in sutfieieiit iiuanlily lor the whole consumption of tiie eountry. I"he nati\e >all sells at 
 Ked Iiiver .Settlement for liV-, per bu-liel. all tiie remaining ("all coming from Lnglalid or llie I'niteil 
 States, bv either of which i.iules :iie iViigiil is neee.-sirilv high. 
 
 LimotoiU' occurs r,t lied Itiver and the west side of Laki' W'inipeg. suitabh' for building purposes 
 or the iiianiifaelmc ot' lime, and tliire is aii iuexhau-tibli- supply of granite on the east side of that 
 lake luid the country through tn Lake .Superior and liudson's May. On the .Saskatchewan, where 
 tiiere is but little limestone to be found, ami where there aii' no means of burning it, ii kind of clay, 
 known liy the name of "white iimd." i- n-ed for whitewashing and other purposes, and in sucli a 
 dry climate makes a good substitute for lime. 
 
 Ol'coal. 1 believt' that none ol -ecoiid.o'y fdrmation has yet l)eeii louinl. except in the ,\rctii' Sea; 
 but what is eonsiileicd to be a tertiary coal or lignite ha- beiii di-coveied in seMial places, and. 
 curioiisly i uough. the district in whieli it exi>ls i> that in which wood iieing rathi'r -e.irce, it will in 
 lime to come (should it prove m. liable t()r donustic and steam piir|)Oses' be in l.irge demand. 
 
 A siiiidl ceam of nine inches in ihickne.-s was tliscovered l>y Dr. Ilietor on the Assonri Hivir. near 
 llie intern. itional linmidarv, in longitude 1(14-' W. It also exists in beds fnun 1 to ii), feel in tliiek- 
 licss on the bank- uf the i mill bi-iinh of llie Saskatchewai;, at I'orl lidmonto: . and it is -aid, wilii 
 liitlc iiiteiiuption, to IlocKy .Mnunlain 1 loii-e. •_'t)0 mile- ab,)ve. and a- the formuioii cDiitainilig tiiis 
 deposit extend- ci>ii-ideralily to the -outh ligiiiu- being found mi the upper waters of the Mi--onri), 
 the same substance will pmbahly be found in most of the iiibiitaries of the sniilb brancii. It has 
 already l)een discovered on lied Deer lliver, in l)eds .-n clnhc that out of L'O feet of strata \'i were ol 
 coai. This coal of tiie I'pper Saskatchewan is considered to be of a diibrenl age to ihat liisi found, 
 but no rejiort has yet appeared of its (pialitv. 1 have seen it in ii.se at i'orl IMiiiontoii for llie 
 forge, wiiere it i- there prel'erivd to charcoal, but i- -,iid to reipiire rather a strong draught. 
 
 } iijihtUc I'lDiltittiuii.s.- -The vegetable pioduetions of the counliy, altiioiigii iiuini roils, are not such 
 as are likely to cause any great tiallie with other parts, but will b.' found" of considerable doiiieslic 
 value. 
 
 Prom all aceoimU the best limbered country is iielween lied Uiver and Lake Superior, many of tlie 
 
 "urishiug iheiewhich do luii t xist in oilier part<, wliih' the size of the timber is greater. ' There 
 
 rel'ort', be no want of wood lor building purposes in iliat distiiel. 
 
 tre 
 can 
 
EXPLORATION OF nUITISTI NORTH AMERICA. 89 
 
 Trirs. — Tlio oak is not i'ound to tlio iKirtli or north-west of Red UivtT and Lnko Maiiitohn. The 
 ash extrn<ls to tlie lower jiMi'l of ilie S.iskalclicwaii only. One species of maple (ash-leaved) exists 
 on the Saskatchewan and lhnnii;lionl the soiitlurii country, which is nnieh nsi'd l>y the natives for 
 the inaniii'aoture ol'sni;ar. I''.lni reaches only to tiie Lower Saskatchewan. Both halsain, poplar, and 
 aspen are the eoninion trees of tlie j)lain conntry, the lornier heiiiu; i:;enerally confMied to the sandy 
 and moist intervale land aloiifj; tlu- rivers, while liie hitter, which never attains lari;c size, is to be 
 found everywhere, and is the only tree existing on tiie edij;es of tin- dry western prairies. I'ossibly, 
 llie consiilerahle rise in the elevation of these plains may limit some of tiie species. 
 
 The usual members of the pine linuily are the white spruce {ii. iilf'ti), the .American larch or Juniper, 
 tiie lir (((. fxilsaiwiA, and Hank's pine, tiie last never attaininjj larije size, and the fir lieiiifr of little 
 value as timber. Muildinu; and Imal timber is iisiiaily cut from tiio spruce (called ''pine" in the 
 countrv), exeeiit when re(|nired of particular durability or for some special purpose, 'riiis wood has 
 the advantage of beini; li.^ht, easily worked, and of siillicicnl strength for ordinary purposes, but 
 unless of t;ood size it is by no means free from knots. 
 
 White orl)assw()od is used for some purposes at l{eil River Settlement, but is confined to the most 
 southern parts of the territory. I shonlil liave said that birch exists to a considerable distance nortli, 
 and is used for carts and sleds when oak is not attainable, as balsam jioplar is also sometinies used for 
 buildin<; jmrposes. 
 
 'I'lie sides of the Uoeky Mountains are well wooded, and 1 doubt not that they will be ri'sorted to 
 to supply the prairie country with timber by ini'ans ol the rivers. As yon jiroeeed northwards, 
 particularly approachin<x Hudson's i?ay, tlie trees become more and more stunted until you reacii the 
 reition called "the liarreti (irounds," 
 
 (Irasf. — Of other vcpetable productions existinjj; in a >tate of nature, !j;rass liu' hay is to be found 
 in abinuianee on the numerous swamps, and in such a rei^ion, when' the summer is so dry and hot, 
 re(|uires little or no trouble in making. 
 
 tirass tor pasture is abundant all throughout the plain country, that on the dry prairie being 
 short, but at the same time nutritious, while on tlie tracts of the tbrmer woodlands it is often thickly 
 intersiiersed with dill'erent sorts of vetch, excellent liiod forcattli- ami dorses. 
 
 Jhrriis iiiiil Uiuilf.- -Merries of dillerent kinds :\re abundant in most parts of the country, including 
 cranberry, sa>k<tooni, pemliinji, currant ''the black being very line), gooseberry small), rasplu-rries, 
 and strawberries, and tluse are found of great use and much sought alter by the natives, where 
 lariiiaceoiis I'ood is so scarce. N\'il<l rice is ])leiitifiil ii. the region of Uainy Lake. A root which 
 grows on the prairie is dug up by the Indians mid greatly used by them; it is called the prairie 
 "turnip," but assimilates to that root only. 1 think', in growing under ground, being more the shape 
 of a carrot or rather .b'rusalein artichoke. an<l by no means ol the most teinler nature. Other roots 
 and barks are usid for medicinal and ilyeing purposes. 
 
 Aiihntils. — I now ooine to wh;il may be called the .~taple nalinal piodnce of the interior, the animaks, 
 for it is on these, their llesh, their skins, their rnis, their lallow, and tlieir oil. that the whole of the 
 nativis exist, lusides being a great source of wealth to those Europeans and others engaged in tlio 
 Indian trade. 
 
 It will be needless hero to eminu'rate the dilVerent t'ur-bearing animals, and out ol" place to enter 
 into the details of the fur trade, wliieii will be touched upon when I come to speak of the devt'lo])- 
 nienl of the resonries ol the country; I shall, therefore, ri'fer simply to those animals tm whicli the 
 natives depend for tlu'ir snjiport. 
 
 The use to which the Indians put the larger m:immalia, such as the deer and builalo, is in the 
 manul'actiire of their -kins into initaniied leather for wearing ajiparel. telils, horse and dog harness, 
 and tor the purposi- of cords or lines of all sorts, canoes, \c., besidis curing the meat and tallow 
 wiiii'h they get from the carcase for food. 
 
 Those tribes inhabitinu' the niM'tli, Hudson's liay. and other woo'led |)(n'tions of the eountry exist 
 ehietly on the two kinds of reindeer or caribou and the moose, be-ides which the black bear, mnsk 
 rat, porcupine, beaver, and that most useliil of all animals in times of scarcity, the never failin" 
 rabbit or rather hare, together witii fish and fowl. Tlu' mnsk o\ is eoiifincd to the lau'tli. 
 
 liiiji'dlo. Those Indians belonging to the prairie and semi-prairie parts of the great plains de]ien(l 
 for their support almost enliii'ly on the hiill'.ilo. or. as it should, perhaps, be called, strictly spe?iking, 
 tlie bison : and as the Indians of this district outnumber all the otiieis. w Idle at the same tiiiu' the 
 greater portion of the voyagers uuil others t'ligaged in the fur trade ari' fed on provisions manufac- 
 turi'il from this animal, together with the hall-breeds of Ued Uiver, and also, eon.sideriug the numbers 
 wiiieh are wantonly slaughtered, it cannot but appear evident that this animal must exist in iimnensu 
 numbers. Having taken some trouble to obtain t'le most reliable datii in resjiect of tlie iniinbers 
 annually killed, in which I have been aided liy gentlemen in the fur trade, 1 consider since 18-12, 
 wiien the Hudson's Hay Company first commence(l to trade to any great extent in robes, there have 
 been no less than I l."»,t>(H) bullido annuidly killitl in Hriiish lerritory ; while (Ml (he great prairies on 
 tile y\iiiericaii side, where the trade in builalo robes Ims been cariii'd (ui to a liir griater extent, the 
 aniount annually slaughtered at the early pari of the piaiod mentioned was upwards of l,()0O,(l(t(\ but 
 this trade is now saiil to have decreaseil on the Missouri one-half. In IH.'i.'i.on the Ibiti.sli side alone, 
 there were 'iD.OOIt robes and skins received at Vork l''aetory on Hudson's May, which, making all 
 allowances, would give about •-•.'Itt.OtUt slaughtered the previous year. 'l'U'\^ in a civilized eountry, 
 allowing '-'lbs. per head per <lieni, a very liberal allowtmce, would have si'i'ved to sustain a population 
 of a ([iiarter of a million, while, probably, ."Id, 0(1(1 only benelite<l by this slaughter. 
 
 I'roiii tlie-u Htateinellts it is lmt> leasoiiahle to sii|)])ose. that although tlu> builalo still exist in 
 iiniiiense niiiiiliers, tliev must lie on the decrease, ar.d it is well known that in the southern prairies 
 
 F •_> 
 
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 7 
 
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 40 PAPERS RELATIVE TO THE 
 
 they arc becoming* very scarce, und on tlio west side of tlio mountains are extinct ; wliiio in tlic 
 country of the Srskatilu'wan, notwithstaiiiling that the contrary opinion is hchlhy many, ihey are 
 also decreas'ln!,', beini,' now unlvnown in jjlacos wiierc tlit-y were formerly abundant. TIiih the Indians 
 know well, and may yet know to .heir cost, for if some decided measures be not taken, Indians and 
 bulValo will disappear sinndtaueoiisly. ^Ve may, nevertheless, look for their I'xisK-iue yet for many 
 year's, for the decrease in the bulValo on the Saskatchewan does not seem to be jjroporiionate to the 
 numbers killed, and it is a prevailing,' idea with some pi'Oi)le, that the animals ;ire beinj^ ilriven norili 
 from tiie Missouri on to IJritish ground : this may to some extent be the ease. 
 
 OfhiT Large Game. — As I biforo stated, the prairie Indians depend almost entirely on bullalo 
 for their support, and the only mode of cnrinji; the moat is by drying or "jerking," which may or 
 niav not be by pouniling and mixing with grease, formed into "pemmican." Hut those Indians 
 inhabiting the slupes of the mountains and semi-wooded country around the edge of the prairies 
 also kill tor the sake of their skins and meat, the wapiti, two smaller kinds of deer, the prong-horned 
 antelope, black and itrislv bears, big-horn and moinitain goat, besides the fur-bearing animals, and 
 as is the'case witii ail Indians, resort to rabbits in case of luvessity. 
 
 jiirils, As to birds, many Indians (but more particularly those called " Swampies ") exist for 
 
 a considerable time both in spring and iiill entirely on ducks, geese, ami other water-fowl, at tlio 
 kiUin"' of which with the least possible expenditure of amnninition they ari' very expert ; and from 
 the nature of the lower parts of the country, water-fowl are in so great demand for food that they 
 are killed for the purpose of .<altiiig. As I hope soon to he in po.'^sessiou of returns of the numbers 
 aiuniallv killed for that juirpose in Hudson's IJay, I shall j)robal)ly insert some parlicidars concerning 
 this in a paper on the '' liirds of the Interior of Uritish North America," which it is my intention 
 to draw up for the Zoological Society. 
 
 The white partridiics (grouse and ptarmigan are also in use as provisions in the north. 
 Ilavin" "iven this necessarily cursory view of the land animals, I come to the iidiabitants of the 
 waters. 
 
 Aiimitic Animah. — The Kscpiimaiix of the coasts make use of the se, 1 as an article of food and 
 for other pur|)oses. and this, together with the waburs and white bear, is foinid amongst the Arctic 
 Islands to Hudson's Straits an(i in the May. 
 
 Then there is the large white porpoise, commonly called by the residents the '• white whale," 
 which is abundant in Hiulsou's Hay, usually during sunnner keeping abcait the numtlis of the 
 rivers. This animd has been made a source of some prolit to the Hudson's Hay Company by the 
 import into Ijigland of the oil extracted from it; and tliey have of late years cst.d)lished a regular 
 fisliorv for the same at l.itlli' Whale Kiver on the east main. Of the (piality of the oil I can only 
 gay, tiiat I have heard it is found to answer the same piMpo>es as that of the sperm whale, 
 
 ^.'/s/j. — The fish, pir excellence, of the interior is the white fisii (coreyonns albus), which may be 
 said to bo tmivcrsally distributed through the numerous lakes. It is in the opinion of all who have 
 liad opportunities of judging, tin- oidy lisli of the eounti'v wliieh one can live on e<nninu,dly without 
 tirinii of it. The average wi'ight may l)e taken, perhaps, at from - to 3 lb>., but in some lakes 
 thev iirow to large size, and I have myself seen them wi'igliing upwards of 1 1 lbs., and the average 
 of 2(tO from ,") to 7 lbs. A smaller s[)ecies ol' white fish is found near the mouths of riviTs emptying 
 into Hudson's Hay. The ii>li next in re(piest is the sturgeon, ol whieh there are two or more 
 species inhabiting the lakes and rivers; anil although they do not in these iidand waters reach the 
 ei/e ot' the Columbia River (ish, yet they are met with in the Winipeg and Lower Saskati'liewan 
 districts to 160 lbs. To givi' >onie idea of the rations re(|uired to feed the inmates of a trading [lo-t, 
 including the dogs, 1 may mention that at Cund)erliind House, llieri' are yearly taken .JOd to 7(10 
 sturgeon and lO.OltO white li.^h, while at the sanu' time potatoes, barley, and a little wheat are 
 grown. There are many other kinds of fish, pike, gold-eyes, trout (some of which attain imniense 
 size), cat-fish, suckers, &c., wbieh all serve to kei'|) the pot boiling during liaril tiine.s. 
 
 The general mode of fishing thronithout the countrv (sturgeon iiududed) is with the net, summer 
 ^ ■ '\ I....; .1. . 1 : ai! .. i ....' i .. .i '. !^ . 4 ... . i. <• .i 
 
 an 
 
 id winter; durinji tlic latter time the nets 
 
 are set under the ice. A grt'at advantagt 
 weather ol winter i.- that fi-h as well as all meat reipiires no curing of any sort, but 
 and in the bullalo c(iUntrv it is usu.d to 
 
 of the severe 
 
 , --- ^ ..,_. - kept frozen; 
 
 con>tnui ici' cellar^ on the a[)[)ruacii of spring, when a 
 
 large »upply of meat may be kept during the ensuing warm weather. 
 
 A.-IH. 
 
 C'l MATi;. 
 
 Climate. — Having giving a griiei,. I description of the natural productions us well as the |)hysica[ 
 features of the interior, it is necessary, bel()rc speaking of the development of its resources, to give 
 some idea of the climate, and in so doing I shall omit the ccientilic and uiiiiecessary details, wjiieh 
 would ratlier confuse than elucidate. 
 
 There have been and po>Ml)ly still exi>l, more |)artieularly in ( 'aii.ida, ino>l erroin ous opinions 
 concerning the I'ountiy and cliinale of the Ueil Kiver and" the wot; I have .sveli il <lcsei ilied as 
 Buperior evi'u to the south-western ]peiiinsiil;i of Caii.ida, which to any observant per.-on must appear 
 absurd; and those wlio have been led away by such .statements need" only have looked at any map 
 cf the conlinent to have been convinced that, in the fice of .'j" tliflereuce of latitude between even 
 the central part of that peninsula and the most southern limits of the interior, notwitlistanding the 
 Westing, this was most improbable. 
 
 M(il<r'Mh.—'X\w materials from which a knowledge of the climate of the country under considera- 
 tion baa been drawn are the rcsulls of regular lueieorological observations carried" on sintultaiieously 
 
EXPLORATION OF BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 41 
 
 in (lie 
 ■y arc 
 i(liaii3 
 
 I.S iliul 
 
 iiiaiiy 
 to tli'o 
 iiorlli 
 
 at Red River Settlement ami I'ort Carlton on tlu- Saskatrliewan Kivcr ; two jjoinis uliicli could 
 hanlly liave bci'n nioie liappily situattil liad tlu'v bvvn silictcd |)iiip()S(ly. At lUd Uiver Iv.v. 
 tlistiiict sets of obscivatioiis were kept up, one at tlie Hospital ol tlie IJoyai Canadian l{i(lis under 
 the direction of Dr. Strana<;lian of tlie Medical Slafi', while tiie oilier was the; eonliniialion ol' a 
 rejjister kept by Mr. Donidii (lunn, of St. Andrews; to both of ihe.-e j;entlenien I am f;reatly 
 indebted for fidl copies of their observation.s. That at l'"orl Carlton was of observations made dniinj^ 
 the stay of Captain Paili.ser's expedition, and afterwards kept up by Mr. Iticliard liardisty, the 
 gentleman in charge, and those under iiim. All the above observations have been discussed for IS 
 months, connnenciiifj November 1H.")7. 15ut besiilcs these .simidtaneotis obsfrvations, others have been 
 made on former occasions, amonjr v.hich I may meiitiou those of laeutenant now Colonel l.eliov, 
 Il.A., at Lake Athabasca and Fort Simpson in IH-j;J-4; thoje of Sir John Kichardson and Dr. I!ae 
 at (iroat 15ear Lake in 1H48-!); those of Franklin's two journeys; besides a ninnber of rej;isters 
 and detached observations collected in Sir John Hicbardson's "Journal of a lioat \'oyai;e." Also, 
 with a view to assist mo in drawin;; 'i comparison with the climate of Canada, I'rofis-or Kiuf^ston, 
 in charf;e of the " Provincial Ol>i'va'ory " at Toronto, has kindly furnished me with numerous 
 records of mcteoroloj;ical obscrvatici.s. 
 
 From those several sources then ha.s the information been drawn, of which, althouj;h the results 
 appear small, yet the labour required in carrying out, as well as discussing the observations, is very 
 considerable. 
 
 CUmnti' of Intirior. — rroni the maxima, minima, and means deduced from these observations it 
 appears, taking the climate of Toronto a.s a base, that while the !ue;in summer temperature at lic<l 
 lliver dill'ers but little, that of winter falls far below it ; and speaking generally, the climale of 
 the interior may be said to be one of extremes. I have drawn the annexed plate in order to show 
 at a glance the corresponding temperatmes at the dillerent places selected; which, ilthough luit 
 giving the details which would appear in u more scientific paper, yet may be sullicient for the present 
 purpose. 
 
 Division of till- Sinsons. — I have not followed the general mode of dividing the seasons, which, 
 although adapted to temperate regions, fails to give a good idea of a climate where the transition 
 from an Arctic to an almost tropical temperature is so sudden, I have therefore considered the wintir 
 Ecason as embracing live months, which leaves summer as usually taken, but cuts oil' the coldest 
 month from both spring and autumn. 
 
 Stations. — The diirercnt st!itions have been selectetl as those which, from their positions niid the 
 Dumber of meteorological observations made at them, would afford the best general iiitoriiiatioii of 
 tlu' climate of the whole country. There are, of course, certain situations wlu'ic iulbu'Oces ofa local 
 nature .seem to modify the climate, but tliise are only exceptions, and do not enter into the 
 general view. 
 
 rm-ts rrliifiiii/ fi) t/ir ('limati: — IJeforc attempting to draw any general coiiciusion,s, I will direct 
 attention to a few facts which ought to be kept in view. l''iist, thi' mi'an annual ti'iiiperature of the 
 whole '"'erior is lower than CaiKida ; second, that while the mean summer teinperalure in the soulhern 
 part is nearly equal to th;it of Toronto, the wiiiier elim.ite is iim<'li more severe; and lasiiv. the 
 spring tenq)erature of the western plains in I.ua'.iiie ."i.'l M., uotwiihstandiug their elevation nearly 
 eipials Toronto, 8° further south. 
 
 Iiijfimire of f.ti/irs. — Then with respect to the country ilseif, it iiiu^t be api)arent to any one that 
 Hudson's Hay and the Lakes have very great inllueuceon thi' crnnaie, particularly with n spect to 
 the spring anil summer temperature. Ibnce the wide iiiscre]iancy beiwcMU Fort iSinipson anil York 
 Firtoiy or the south of I ludson's IJay, which having annual tiuipeiatures ciju.d lo and above the 
 fust, fall so much short of it in the spring; ai.'ain tlu- backward spring siason of Lake Supoiior 
 results from the ice it contains, while the coin, ess of the diep water dtirii'.g suniiinr aid- in Icnipcring 
 that season : the sauir holds good lor Lake Athabasca. And lastly, the coiiiparati\cly low s])iiii<r 
 (piirticularly A|iril) ti'iiiperature of Iteil Itiver conip ired w ith the Sa=katiheuaii at so much greater 
 elevation is no doubt due to its proximity to Lake \\iiiipeg. 
 
 In a reiiort contained in the I'arlianieiitaiy I'apeis (dated .luue Its.")!*), concerning the e\ploiatioii» 
 of the country between iiake Superior and Ked lliver Setticiiieiil, carried on under theCanadiau 
 (iovernment, there is a comparison givi'ii of the climates of Ked Uivir .Settlement and 'i'oronto, and 
 which from its authority might be liable to lead many into error, liiil it appears thai only one vear's 
 observations having been takiii, and the means deduced Irom ci'rtaiii hours of the day without cor- 
 rection, it has made the siimiiicr temperature of Ked Kiver 4° higher than that of 'I'oronto; and 
 again, owing to the estimated aiiiouiit of rain at the former having been compared with the actual 
 amount at Toronto, has given no les.s than '21 inches in favour oi Ked Ki\er I'm' the summer season 
 alone. Now, iilthough lliis may be the case, it is hirilly prnhable : and although il'e iiili,;l iiai.ts it" 
 Hell Kiver Seltleiiielit slioldd take into aici Ulil the geod as Well as li e h..llii ilniie ly.la lri(jii, i,( 
 thunder storms wbuh pass over thai ngioii dining the hot siiliinu r weather, yel 1 iiiusi liol.i to 
 the opinion that the I'all of rain has beni soiiuwhal exiigneiateii. 1 in ed onlv le'er to tie pl.ite on 
 the following page for the result', of eiireriilly corieeled n gistrat.oiis of llir leiiii'eiatiiie of the 
 whole year and several seasons, which will, 1 think, be found not very wide of the liuih. 
 
 Cold Aif//its. — It should here be observed, with nspect to the climate of the Ked Kiver and 
 Saskatchewan country, that alllioiigh the suiiimer temperature is high, yet the theriiioiui'ter {leiierallv 
 fulls to the free/ing point at the end of May and August, and octasionallv frosts occur in 
 
 F 3 
 
 
 >i ,■ 
 
 ' I 
 
42 
 
 PAPERS RELATIVE TO THE 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 
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 V 
 
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 M 
 
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 Aiiiiiiiiii 
 
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KXPLORATION OK BlUTISII NORTH AMKRICA. 
 
 4S 
 
 iiii_- 
 
 every moiitli in llii' yoiir. T liiivc tnyselt', at '2, ((00 li-ct above tlie sea, n'i;;ister('(l tlie tlicntioim'tcr at 
 80° oil tlif 17tli .Inly in laiiiiide M°, anil hnt nine days at'tiT, nut liavinj; clianjreil my allitiitlr- more 
 than 1,(100 lect, and to tlie soiitli of liie roriiuT position, seen it at 'U° at sunrise. 
 
 IVintir, — Winter may be said to set in wiiii Noveiniier and last till the end of March or middii' of 
 April; but the (u'sl snow falls sometimes in the commencement of October and lasts until May. 'I'lie 
 thermometer ranifes over 110" of lahrenlieit. 
 
 Tliere somelimes occur most exceptional |)lienoiiiena ; tlins, in March lHj8, after two days of 
 niajriiiliceiit auroral displays and iiitens*' iiiaj,'neti(; disturbance, a cyclone or rcvolvin<r storm, wliicli 
 at Ked Uiveron the 14lh was accompanied by thunder, passed over the country, brinj^iiii:; rain and a 
 rapid thaw ; a few days after the tliermoiucter was at *2°, and had been 25° below zero on the 1st of 
 the month. 
 
 liiciTs and Lakia Icc-huiinil. — Althou<rh Lake Winipej; is seldom navij^able bellnv .lunc, yet the Red 
 Ilivi'r and Saskatchewan having been closeil for the previous five months usually break up about the 
 middle of April; howi'Ver this al^o varies, for on the 1st of May of the present year 1 crossed tlii' Ucd 
 River at 49° parallel on the ice with horses ; while oil the same day, the snow being on the ground, the 
 thermometer rose to 74°. 
 
 Wind and Haiu. — The prevailing winds at Red Hiver Settlement arc north and south, the former 
 being about one-fourth and the latter one-third of the whole from thi' eiglit principal |)oiiUs of the com- 
 pass ; the remainder being mostly on the west side. At Red River and on the Saskatchewan, when a 
 north-east or easterly wind springs up, thick weather is certain to follow, which in summer is usuallv 
 attended with rain and in winter snow ; this is, no doubt, entinly owing to the presence of ice at the 
 former and open sea ilnring the latter season in llud>on's May ; and it should be ri'collected tiiat the 
 bay has a greater innueiice on the climate of the more northern jiarl than any other feature of the 
 continent. Were it not for the h.iy the l{rili>h territory would be no better than the stcriie waste on 
 the eastern flank of the chain of the Rocky Mountains, which is already being felt as such a 
 formidable barrier to (he ])r()gre>s of western enterprise beyond the Mississippi valley: and moreovi'i-, 
 when we con>i(ler that Lake Raikal and Winipeg are very similarly situatid in their respective 
 continents, and that while their mid-winter tem[)eratures diller biil little, the isotlieiiiiid of ,hily for 
 Red River passes considerably to the south of the Siberian Lake tiirongli Central France and the 
 Azores, we cannot but feel thankful that the Anglo-Saxon race was guided towards the New 
 World. 
 
 C/imatrs of Old and A'cic If'or/i/s. — Many iiujuire, why the clinialc of North America diil'ers so much 
 from Miat of Kurope .■' Rut the converse should rather be askiil : why does Kuropc diller in climate 
 so greatly from North .Ainerieai' which could be answered ii\ tlie fiw words, — (ui account of the gulf 
 stream. And in comparing the climate of tlie two continents, we should rather contrast Kurope with 
 the Pacific .side of North America and the eastern or greater portion with Asia ; thus we bring 
 together two regions having for the amelioration of their climate similar causes, namely, the gulf 
 stream of the North Atlantic, and if we may so call it, the I'ai'iiic gulf stream, while the two other 
 m.isscs of land are under iiincli the same conditions, with the exception, perhaps, of Siberia con- 
 taining no eciuivaleiit to Hudson's Ray. 
 
 K 
 Tin: Inhauita.nts. 
 
 'l"he inhabitants of the vast but thinly populated interior of Northern America are separable into 
 four divisions; namely, North American Indians, Ks<iuiiuaus, whiles, anil half-breeds; llii' al)origines 
 being the most numerous, and the whites considerably in the minority. 
 
 L ' 
 
 AllOltllilNKS. 
 
 Kti/iii'nifinr. — First, in speaking of the Ksipiimaux o, Arctic natives, T wil, j;,m •■• ,i ii» ..diub 
 such information as I have gained from the works of explorers and by intercourse with gentlemen of 
 
 "ive in a lew word 
 
 the fur tradt 
 
 sal 
 
 The !•: 
 d he 
 
 iipiimaux, as one person rcmarki'd to nii', " are i 
 
 :)t Ind 
 
 laiis, we never ea 
 
 II tl 
 
 lum 
 
 Ind 
 
 lUllj 
 
 th 
 
 lire as distinct from the rea 
 
 .il 1ml 
 
 ians as the neuro from the white man ; the 
 
 more like {'".uropeans in apjiearance, traditions, and mode o. life." Little doubt exists but that the 
 Ksciuimaux of the Arctic regions of Lurope, .\sia, and America arc the same race: but I shall leave 
 to I'lhnologists to determine where was their original habitat, or how and for what puiposi: tliey were 
 distributed as we now (ind them, as well as the origin of the Indians of this lU'W world. Resides 
 nssimilaling to the whites in appearance, the Ks(|uiiiiaiix possess a ((iialily in common with them, which 
 I may say is aImo.--t unknown among Indiana, nauu'ly, providence; thus, in tlie season when the 
 animals are plentiful on the shores of the Arctic Sea, they iu:ike "caches" of large iiuantitie.s of 
 nicat for winter use. 
 
 Speaking generally, this nation is eonfiiied to the shores of the Arctic Sea, tlu' northern and 
 eastern parts of llud.sou's R.iy, and Labrador; and missionaries have only come in contact with the 
 
 in 
 
 uu 
 
 the east main and last-niLMitioned place. Parties of them, inhabiting certain districts, arc 
 
 spoken of as being treacherous, and others again as ([uite the reverse 
 
 The art of dog and i-leilge <lriving is kn.iwn ahiiosl to perfection among them. 
 
 Localities of Indian Natinns. — In enumciating the did'crent nations and tribes ol Lidlans inhabiting 
 the interior; 1 shall not include those of L'anaila, for whom provision is made iii that province, nor 
 can 1 siicak of the numerous inhabitiiiits of the Pacific coast. 
 
 F4 
 
 l\i 
 
 ' ■■) 
 
^1 
 
 / 
 
 i 
 
 44 
 
 PAPERS RELATIVE TO THE 
 
 Acconlin.' to i.tlnioloirists, tl.e dinoivnt tribes inlmbitinj,' the country an; vanffo.l un.ler five great 
 mtions-the Alsomiuin: Uucotali, Cl.iimeyaii, the Kutchin, ami those ot the I'acilic slope, whieli 
 severally iiielu(U- ilie tribes ar* here emiinerateil:— 
 1. Aborigines. — 1. Crees of the coast. 
 '2. Swanipv Crees. 
 ;3. Thiekwood Crce;?. 
 
 4. I'rairie Crees. 
 
 5. Mountain Crees. 
 
 (i. Saulteau or Ciiippcway. 
 
 •J. Dacotali. — 1. Sioix- ...... 
 
 •_>. Assiniboiue or Stone Indians (prairie and wood). 
 ;). IMackfeet (iiieludiiiM; IJJood and I'icgaui.) 
 a Chipwcyans.— 1. Chipwoyaii (proper). 
 'J. Ihire Indians. 
 ;i. Dog Kibs. 
 4. Heaver Indians. 
 I-. Luerec (Circees.) 
 4. Kutchin or Loucheaux. 
 j. — 1. Kootoiiays. 
 •_>. I'lathoad*. 
 a. Sliousliwap.s. 
 
 To liegin with the north, the dilVerent tribes of Chipwcyans extend from the north-western part 
 of lludsou's I'l.iy across the continent to the Pacilic, bordering the Ksiiniinanx on the iU)rth, except 
 westward of Mackenzie's Hivcr, wlurc the Kulchiii iiilerposc, who extend into the Hussiaii dominions, 
 and are .slid to be a people of laigo stature and warlike nature. 
 
 To the south of the Chipwcyan b.irricr comes the Algur(|uin nation, whose representatives in the 
 interior are the dilii.'reiit Crees and the Cliippeways or .Soolteaux ; the latter are almost exclusively 
 conlined to the south part of Lake Winipeg and the country thence to and around Lake .Superior. 
 Ihit tlie Crees are distributed over the whole country anuind Iliulson's Hay, and west to the llocky 
 iMoiuitains: thev are nuinerous, and fioin the fact of their iiaving always been favourable to llic 
 traders and the tiist to obtain lire-aiiiH. are a powerful people. There can b<' little doubt but that 
 they were in former liines Indians of the woods and conlined to the east of Lake Winipeg ; and 1 
 think that .Sir Alexander Mackenzie's theory of the progress of the diU'eient natiims is not far from 
 the truth when lie .-ays that the Algoiigains have progressed westerly, the (_ hipwcyans easterly, and 
 the Uacotahs northerly. 
 
 The Dacotahs, of which the Sioux tribe fiu-iu the greater part, being of themselves 30,000, arc 
 mostly confined to the territory of the I'nili'd States; but the .V.-siniboine or Stone Indiana of 
 the plains of the Saskatchewan arc of the Snrix tribe, altluuigh they have been lor many years 
 scpnate irciii it, and the lilacklcet, three divisions of which tribe extend to the Saskatchewan near 
 the Rocky Moiiiitaius, are all suid to belong to the .siiue nation. 
 
 ^ihiiiisliini/is. — On the I'acilic side, but near the llocky Mouutaiiw. are the Shoushwaps, who, 
 inhabitiiig the iip[ier part of I'razer s Uiver and the north toi k ot the Columbia, have :il\viiys behaved 
 peiiecabK lowanis the wiiite>: but in search alter the precious metal, unthinking personjniay yet make 
 i'ormidable enemies out of beings heretofure coii.-idurcd harmless. 
 
 h',)(ili)ii(ii/s. — 'I'o the -oiith of these are the Koolonays, who it would appear are not a iimnerons 
 tribe; they livi' in peace with their southern neighbours, the I'latbcails. who, as they seldom come 
 mirth of 4!)''. do not propirly come under ob>erv;ition here. Tliese two tribes have in times gone by 
 joined for the iiurpose ot' eariying on war with their mutual I'liemies, tlii' Hh'.ckli'ct, who have usually 
 coiiiniemed the (|uanel by -traling lior-es, in which thesi' western slope Indians are rich. Although 
 aiinie!, peacelul. and hoiu^t tribe, tlie KiKJtoiiays are said to be remarkably brave, and have on (bllerent 
 occasions made such a di-play of -tieiigtli tli.U ilieir foriiur enemies arc now glad enough to keep on 
 terms of Irieiulsliip with tiie.'M. .Soiiie ot' the lilackl'eet, tbcrefure, usually meet them yearly when 
 they come to the ca.-t side of the mountains (which they do regul.irly in the spring and fall for the 
 purpose of killing biilfalo. and curing the meal lor their own subsistence and trade) for the purpose of 
 irallic and excliaiige of horses, guns, blanktits, and other inili-pciinabli's of savage life. 
 
 ."•oi.ie years ago they went ,so far as to excljangc two lads for the purpose of learning each other's 
 languages, one of whom (a Kootoiiay) became iimI'uI lo me ,'is an inteipretiT when amongst his 
 people. Another one, who acted iis guide and interpreter in my second passage of the mountains, had 
 when young lived a considerable lime with l>oth the Crees and IJlackfeet, and boa-ted that he could 
 count ten in as many languages as he had fuigeis on his hand, namely, Koolonay, Mathead, liiiickloot, 
 Crce. and Kieiieh, he having learned the last I'rom the half-breed French Canatliaii traders. 
 
 From these circumstances, ilic care they bestow on their horses ami cattle, and from not being 
 addicted lo begging or stealing, the Kootunays contrast favma'ably with the Indians of the east side, 
 and as I have already mentioned ^sec Appendix II.;, I am at a loss lo know lo what to attribute this 
 marked dilfcience. If, as I have premised, it can be attributed to their partial Christiauization, still 
 it remains a contrast to the ellicts produced elsewhere. It appears to me that they arc in a state 
 highly favourable lo further civilization ; and I woulil select the tobacco plains (the centre of their 
 country) as a point well adapted for one of the Indian agricultural settlements, which I slumld pro- 
 pose to be established by this country for the benefit of the natives of the interior, When, indeed, 
 
 I)ii/i/ i 
 
 Will 
 
EXPLORATION OF niUTISH NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 4b 
 
 wc look on tlic state oftiio aljoriijiiK's tlir()iij>lioiit the world, hut iiioi'i- piirllt ularlv in North America, 
 when- ihf march ol'civili/aiiuii ha'* bi'i-n so rapid, wc cannot hut K el ihaf wo owi' sonulliin^ to thnsu 
 poor iiiiciviii/cd people whom we ili|)rive huih ol' their lands and nc'iiii^; of eXMeiiee. '] his his been 
 so ably pointi'ci out hy Mr. Jb>pkin>on in a f-pci'di on the Seminole war on the door of (. oii^rc.^s, 
 that I make lu) apoloj^y ibr giving his preei»e words: — 
 
 Duly towiinls thr Iiidiatis. — " I may say, however, tii?t I i)resuiiu' the oriu'in ol'lhi'i war is the; snnio 
 " with all oiM" Imhan warn. It lies deep, beyond the power ol eradie.ition, in the mighlv wroni;.s wo 
 " have heaped upon the miserable naliims of ihi'-e lands. 1 eainiot refuse ihemmv iuarifelt svmiialhy; 
 " relK'ct upon what they were, and look upon them a.s they are. (iii'.it nations dwindled down into 
 " wandering tribes, and powerfid kings degraded to lu'ggarly chiefs. Once the Bole jios.sessori ot" 
 " inunea!«ureal)lo wilds, it could not liiive entered into their imagination that there was a force on 
 " earth to disturb their |)ossession and overthrow their jiower. It enleied not into their imagination 
 " that from beyond that great water, which to them was an inipassalili- limit, would come a r.u i' of 
 " beings to desjjoil them of their inheritaiu'e, and sweep them from thi' earth. Three lumdred vears 
 " have rolled into the bosom of eternily .since the whiii- man put his foot on these sili'iit, .shore*, and 
 " every day and hour and evi'ry moment has lieeu mark< d with some act of cruelty iind oppression. 
 " Imposing on the credulity and ignorance of the aborigines, anil cverawing tlii'ir fiars by the use of 
 " in-ti'iuneuts of death or inconct'iv.ihle terror, the straugi'rs gradually established themselves, 'm- 
 " creasing the work of destruction with the increase of their stieniith. 'I'lie tide of civilizatieii, for 
 " so we call it, lli'd Iroin the inexliaii-tible sources in l'>nro|ie, ;u< well by its own nieaiis oi' aug 
 " ineiiiation. swells rapidly and pres-e> on the savage. He retreat'- from forest to foresi, from iiioun- 
 " tain to mountain, hoping at eviry remove he has h'ft enough fur hi-, invaders, and may enjoy in 
 " peace his new abodi- ; but in vain, it is only in llii- grave, the last retreat of man. that lie will find 
 " repose. lie recedes befori' the swelling wateis ; the cry (>f his complaint becomes more distant 
 " and feeble, and soon will be heard no more. I hear, sir, ol beniiiec nt plans for civili/in;r the 
 " Indians and seeming their posses-ions to tin iii. The great men who make these elforls will ha\e the 
 " approhalion of (iod and their own consrien ■', but this wdl he all their succe.'^j. 1 ciiusider the fate 
 " of the Indian as ineviialily fixed. He mil.-; perish, 'i he decree of e.xterniiii ition has Iniig since 
 " gone forth, and the execution of it i? in r.ipid progie-s. Avarice, sir, has counied their acres and 
 " power, thi'ir force and avarice and power inai'ch on together to their destriietioii. Von talk of the 
 " s.alping knili', what is it to the liipiitl poison you |ioar down the throats of these wivtcheil beings'' 
 " Von declaim against the murderous loi aliawk, what is it in coiniiarison with your ii nis, yuiii 
 '' di-cipline, your uinnhers ? The contest is in vain, and eipially vain are the elVoiI- of i* haiii!l'iill of 
 " beiievok'nt men again-t a coinbinatioii of force stinmlated by avarice and the lemjitalion.s of 
 " weailli. ^\"lltn in the dociiinelits on your table 1 see in the Iiiuniplial march of ( ieiieral .lacksoii 
 " he meets from time to time (the only enemy be saw) group of old men ami wiimen anil ehildien 
 " gathering on till' edgi' of a morass, their vill.'mes di'stroyed, their corn and provisions carried oil", 
 " houseless in the depth of winter, looking for death alternalely to laniine and the sword, iiiy heart 
 " sickens at a scene so charged with wreteliedi.es^. To r lu^e us fiom a symp.ithy .-o d. e|). so 
 " irre-isijble. we are told ol' the scidping knife and the tomdiawk of our slaUL;!:!ered wi.iiien and 
 " children. We .-peak of lluse things as if' wiiiiien an 1 childrci \y\w nnknow.i to ihe li.ii'.ins, a.i if 
 " thev had no such being among them, no •iich iieir and dear icl.itioii. as it' llu'V bel.inj; only to u*. 
 " It is not so. Tlu' poor Indian mother, crouching in her miseiable wigwam or rc'^iing under the 
 " broad caiio]iy of heaven, presses her naked infinl to lii'r besom with as true anil fond emotion aa 
 " the fairest in our land, and her heart is torn with as keen anguish if it perish in her sight." 
 
 MaiKii/i iiK III of' Iiiilidii .///('(/.'•.<, I'ltilnl Slii/is. — The people of the I'nited States have so far taken 
 this subject into consideration, that a large sum is annualiy granted f(>r the benefit of the ahorijiinc-, 
 a portion of which h ■ ol late years been expended in a manner likely to lu' of moie permanent 
 benefit to tluni iliaii ''.e former svstini nf liidi.m (Micallidi " presents " siill cair.ed on in Canada. 
 In the Central govi'rmncnls of the I'nited Stales the ol'lice of Indian all'.iirs is a branch ol' the depart- 
 ment ol the Interior, tin- bn^iiuss couiuited with which is ur.,ler llu' eonlrol ol the " C'omnii-,-ioiier ol 
 Indian Alhiirs,'' who annually ni.ikes his report, which accomiMiiies that of' the Secrelaiy of the Interior, 
 and is puhli-hed by the cinintiy and di.-lribuled among tlu' memher.'i of Congress; and I have now 
 befiire me tlu' ri-pint fur lh.")M, by which it apjiears that scatierid throughout the I'n on are about 
 S.'iO.lltMl Indians, among whom are located mar a hundred siipirintcndcnts, agents, teachiis, and 
 farmeis, whosi' reports are i.l! auinially puhli.-luJ. 
 
 With respect to the manner o! triating thi' Indians, the words of' the (.^imuiis-ioiur are " l'".xpeiieiici' 
 " has lU monsir.iti (1 that at least ihrei' serious, and to the Indi.ius f.it.il, 1 1 rors have hithci to marked " 
 the l'nil"d Statis policy towards llu m, " vi/., their len.oval lunn pi, ice to place as whiu' population 
 '• advanced, the assignment to them of' too iiie.it an esteiii of e aiu'ry to be held in eomiiion, and the 
 " allowance of largo sums of money as annniiies for thi' lamU ci ded by them, 'I'hi-i' error.'', I.ir 
 " more than the want of ea[iacity on the part of the Indian, h.ive been the cause of ihi^ very limited 
 " success of emit ml elVorls to donirslieile .ind civili/e him.'' 
 
 liul each v>ar more altenlion is now being diiecled to the e-taidi>lime'.it of -cIhmIs lor favniing and 
 useful art^, aiul in some places ihi' Indians seem to have already di lived much I e.u fit. 
 
 'J'/ie Indium on tin' I'.n.^t Siitr. -liefore making this digle-sion, I su'imiltid s cue g ii r.d slaleinelits 
 
 coiU'ern.ng the ill 
 
 nx 
 
 fh 
 
 t ualionsof Indians, and having; in a former report (-ee Ai.|iciid;N 11.) (h 
 
 'Crme, 
 
 iiv particularly those Indians which I came in cjitael with on the wtst side. I .-iiail now pro ■, e I 
 
 to notice till! Iiilies whose liuniin;: groniii 
 
 properly the iibori_;ines of the country tri'Ute I id in thi.^ leporl. 
 
 Is I e to the ei.st of the Uockv Mounlaiiia, and \>lio are n;oio 
 
 ! ivi 
 
46 
 
 PAPERS RELATIVE TO THK 
 
 1 
 
 -^ 
 
 .. 
 
 \\ kno\vlf(li;i'. but tlio Cli 
 
 itii tlx 
 
 Chipnri/an.—Of llie nortliorn tribes I Imvc no personal knowlfd^'i". but tho lihipweynns, with tlie 
 exception' of om- iwiul ori{,'iii;iily llciivcr IiKliaiiH, who now livi- on inu Sa.skiitohevvaii priiirii'S under 
 the nimif oflirfirn or SuiTei's', are jiurely Wood Iniliaiis, and arc said, when the laiiu;uaj;e is accpdred, 
 to lie i)v 111) iiu'aiis diltii'iilt to deal with; and tiieir eoiintiy heinjr inoslly liiiek woods, aiul intir.-eeted 
 by iiniiienins rivers eomiiriinn- the iliU'ereiit iakis, their mode of hie diU'ers jitth' Ironi other inhabi- 
 tants ol similar di>tricti<, wiiere the horsi heine; unknown, tlu' t'leilitie.s tor franspost are eordini'd to 
 the canoe and snow siioe. Traders having,' becu anioiijf ihi'iu lor many years, they are now, in conunoii 
 with others, dependent ou the wliitis for articles of every-ilay Use. 
 
 Coiisf Kiiil Siawi/ii/Cnv.i.—'r\w country around IIikImiu's May, and intlndinu; its souliiern extreniiiy, 
 called James May, is tiiinly inhaliited by Coiot and Swampy Crees ; and ih" latter exi.nd as tiir 
 inland as Knulish Uiver, Lake Winipeu'. and the lower part of the Niskalehewan ; there are also 
 many at the fndian settlement near the monih of Ucd Uiver, but they have only been drawn tliore 
 by the advantam's allbrded by civili/.ation, and of these there art; few that can be called pure Indians. 
 This is liiucli the case thronudioiil the whole swampy [lortioil of tiie Crees, owiiisf to their haviiij,' been 
 loiver associated with whites than any other tribe, in fad, tin- Crees i^eiierally may thank tho 
 trailers for the ureater part of ilie interior they now have in their hamls, for it is not a iiw-.xt many 
 years since the Mlackfeet held tiie whol'- Saskalehewaii plains, at which time liie Sloiie Imlians or 
 Assiniboiiies inhabited the country lying alonir the river of that name, and tlio Crees were conliiicd 
 mostly to the thickly-wooded country to tiie north of Lake \Vini|iejj, aiul bi'twien thai lake and 
 Ilnilson's Bay. On the I'm- traile, however. beiiiL; pushed up the Sa-kalchewaii and the Crees 
 obtainiii',r lire-arms ot tiie traders, they drove the Mlaekl'i'ct and Fall rndians, or (iros Wnlres. west, 
 at the same time taking to horses, they gradually became I'lairie Indians, and forming a league with 
 the Stone Indians, who, as late as 181!), couhl not obtain guns in trade at the lorts, siicci'eded in 
 contining Mlacki'eet to the limits they now r.irely oveiste|), namely, fioin the uiijier waters of the 
 t>a>katchewan in a line towards Fort L nion on the Mi-soiiri, as shown on the iiMp. Crees also 
 inhabit ilic country to the north of the Saskatcliew.ui, where they are mostly what arc called thick or 
 .strong-wood Indians, there licini;- only a lew horses among them. 
 
 'rrciitiiiiiit i>f Horses. — The Crei'S of the prairies, or as tlu'V are usually calleil by thi' I'jiglish 
 speaking portion of the inhabitants, " IMaiu Crees," show a great want of knowledge and feeling in 
 the trcitaient of their horses, which is also l.irgi'ly sliari'd in by their ■ half brothers," who call them- 
 selves civili/ed. A horse by them is tre.iled like a di>g (and dogs certainly do not experience the 
 kindc-t ireatnu'ut at llie hands of the liiiiian wonu'Ui. an I iliey are so given to barter, that it any 
 kind of iiriite having fmr legs and a head is ollered, and :.oiiie trilling article to boot, a Cree will close 
 the bargain; there are, of course, esception-. 
 
 There can be little doubt that the Crees oriiinally had no horses, which their word tor a horse 
 " .Mistatiin" (big dog) cicirly sliows. We may, liowever, say that of all the Imlians, if we art,' to 
 believe that the aniind did not exist in America before the inv.ision iiy the .Spaniards. 
 
 '1'Ik! Stone Indians or .\.ssiiiibi)iiies show crpial ignor.ince of the horse with the Cives. 
 
 The lilackfeet, lieiiig fnrlher west and south, tr.Mt their animal.s belter, and havi' more of tlioni ; 
 but the Kootonays beliue spoken ol', living on the wesr side of the Koeky .Moiiniaiiis, have more 
 knowledire, take more care of, and own many more horses in proponion lo iheir iiiiin'iers than any 
 of the trioes on the (.'a^t side, besides which they are adejits at the use of the I.hso. 
 
 All Indians own large numbers of dog.;, whieli are iiscil in haidiiig lodge or tent poles ami otliir 
 loads. Tiicy live oil uhat they can pick up or steal, and are managed by the women. They have 
 mo-tly a very wolfish look, and often breed with tiio^u liym.is of the iiorili, 
 
 Clii/i/iiiniijs.—'I^Uo Chippeways, or as they are also called .Saultcanx and Ojibeways, are in langu.ige 
 and Iwibils nearly related to ihe Crees. 
 
 They are, I tliiiil<, generally >[)eaking a line r.ice, as I have seen many men of large >tatnre among 
 theiu, and on an average (although I have not data on which to L;ive a deeided. opinion) are probably 
 over the lniglil of Anglo-Saxons, from whom the Indians jren<.r.illy diller little, although they 
 are usually not so stoutly tbriiied ;is the white iiiaii. 
 
 The Clii[ipi'way country is .iround Lake .Superior and Red Kiver, a few being to the west of 
 Lake Winipeg. They are e>>eiitially Wood Indians, but some few, a^ is aluavs the case, bordiaiiig 
 on the pr lirie Indian-., have fallen into their mode of life. They seem to be, if we may judiic Iroin 
 the reports of liMvell, IS tlir.iu'jh dieir country, Miinewhat noted for their eloculion, but to make a 
 little too mikli out ot' Indian speeches is an error into which m.nu persmis fall. 
 
 However the Chippeways are :i good deal mixed up with half-breeds and Swampy Crees iit Ilcd 
 Uiver Setileiuent, tome going under the name of Christians, and ;irc generally very favourable lo 
 the whiles 
 
 Siini.r Xiitioii. — 1 have last to speak of the .Sioiix or Daeolah Indians, the mention of whose name 
 strikes terror into the mind yf may a young half-breed, brought u[) to regard theiu as inveterate 
 aud bloodthirsty enemies.' 
 
 Stdiic Jntliniis. — The Stiuie Indians or Assiniboiucs were of this people, but in limes i >ng past 
 .separated from the main tribe, and now live at peace with the Crees from the Mis-^ouri to the 
 Saskatchewan, l.isidcs a h w fainiliis along the Rocky Mountains. Within the memory of man they 
 Ijave been dreadfully reduced by tjiat scourge of savage life, the small-pox. In habits they diller 
 little Iroiu the Crees, but were formerly considered much greater thieves. 
 
 Siiinx. — 'I he Sioux proper do not live to the north of the international boundary, but as they 
 aie oltcii eiieouiiteierl by the lied Uiver half-breed hunters, who are their inveterate enemies, 1 
 considered that I was bound to introduce them here. They are mimerous, and said to be brave, 
 
 md Ol 
 
 oiilv lie 
 
 Mo,/r 
 inliabitii 
 thick-wi 
 plains t( 
 manner. 
 
 Thirl 
 families 
 at thi> 
 find ill 
 coming 
 power- 
 pro>eell 
 
 more pe 
 
 they li; 
 sub^l^te 
 great 
 
 iSoliu 
 supplies 
 and mil 
 they [I 
 It is en 
 a prese 
 rc'^ulali 
 I must 
 by th 
 
 l'r,i,\ 
 tiie sun 
 camped 
 at a till 
 portiiui 
 Uocky 
 or 4(1 () 
 nnd ut 
 
EXPLORATION OF BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 47 
 
 and tlie Snltoaux (Cliippownys of Red River) nre their perpetual enemies, and sometimes join tlio 
 liaH'-breed-s fur the piiri)()>e of cliajstisiii<r tliciii. 
 
 liliirhfht. — The liiaekU'et, who arc sail! to be of tlie Daeotah nation, and of whom thi' diU'crent 
 hranehci*, lllackfcet proper, I'ie^ani, iUooil Indians, and (iros-X'cnues or l'"all Indian-* are still in 
 lariie mnnbers, eon>titiite a pow'-rfnl trihe. This people is, perhaps, of all the Indians east of the 
 Rocky MonntaiiLs the least dependent on the whiles, atid havin<r in limes past canned considci'ablu 
 annoyance to the traders hy their depredations, and, moreover, heiii}^ seldom at peace with the Indiana 
 around them, they rcci'ived a had name, whieii has elunj; to them. Since, however, 1 have had 
 opportnnities of judijini; of ilieir character com|)arcd witli that of the other triliis inhahiiin;,' the 
 plains, 1 have formed a more liivoiirahle impression of them. They are, in common with their 
 iiei;,'hhonrs, tju' '.'ri'cs and Stone Inilians, great thieves, as also l)eL,'i_'ars, but on aecomil o|' liavinj; 
 licen brouLjht le>s in coniact with the whit(Ns, they have a inori' indepeiiileiit manner. Their chiefs 
 also have some command over their men, which is bnl veiy sli<.jhtly the case amonfi either .Stone or 
 ('ree Indians. They are true I'rairiu Indiana, and ocenpy the wholi' country I'roin the .Missouri on 
 the sontli lo the Saskatchewan on the north, near the Ivoeky Mountains. Their territory I'ormerly, 
 as has been .said, exiended far to the east. The bulDilo is their main support. Frinn cc)nver.-..itioiis 
 which I liad with several of tliein, it woidd appciu° that they are l'avi)nr:.l)ly inclined towards the 
 introduction of civilization ainoiii; them, which has as yet hardly been attempted, 'i hey are aware 
 that the butValo are rapidly ducreasinj;, and foresee that their ile.-ceiidants will have to lake to s^oine 
 other way of iivimr than the la/y yet not luxurious modi' lollowcd at present. The cu-toin of 
 piilvfiamy is more prevalent amons.; them than with the t.'rees, but the w(nnen are better looking 
 and far cleaner than their neighbours. The men are also I tliink giMierally more robust. Owml' to 
 the laws of the I'nited Slates prohibiting^ the sale of spirituous liijuors to the Indians, they i an 
 obtain very little on the Misxiuri, :uid altlii>uu;h they !;o there to jjet their jfoods at the cheaper rale, 
 yi't they often travel live or six hiuidred miles lor the purpose of obtainint; the much coveteil 
 commodity at the Ilud-on's l>ay Ciunpany Iradiiiir |)osts on the Saskatehewan Uivei', where they are 
 never refused if they pay in horses or dried piovisioiis. The scenes which ensue on these visits of 
 bands (d' Indians for the purpo-e of liipau- trade are beyond descripiiiui. It is iu)t uncommon for 
 wives to be oU'ereil in trade lor rimi. They are so fond of the li(pior that, althouiih ihey know that 
 they becom- poorer by taking,' it in phev of uicfnl ailicles, yet they say that they hope it 
 will not be ])roliihiled. Certain it is that if there wvw a law eid'orced ajjaiust it on the IJritisli side 
 of tlie line, the trac'e in Inillido rol)e^ and provisions woulil decrease considerably on tlii' S.iskalchewan. 
 However, let US jiope that such a slate of things will not nuich longer exi-t, but that a law being 
 enacted, it will be lli(> duty <d' an Indian) C,'ommissiun>'r and his agents lo put a stop to this 
 deiiiorali/ing tratlii'. All misr,ioiiaries agree on tins |)oint, that they can make nothing of the Indians 
 w!:< re li(|U ir i> in use, and L have been repeateilly soliritei'l to u-e my best endeavours lor its 
 suppression. Mori'ovcr, th<' geiulenu'ii of t!:e t'ur trade, wlu) deal diieclly with tl e Indians, would 
 tniiy be too glad to sec the system of li(|Uor irafHe or ''presents'' entiri'ly abolished. 
 
 Miittr of Lifr of' Iiii/idiis. — In speaking of the mode of living of the Indians, we mn>t se|iarate those 
 iiiliabiting the thickly woialed country from their brethren of the prairies; and taking liist of all the 
 thick-wood Indian-', iiubiiling the dill'eriiit tribes that extenil over the wiiole country, e.\cepl the 
 plains to the south of the .Saskatchewan River, they may be said to live much in the following 
 maimer. 
 
 'I'liirh-u-niul Imliniis. — During the simmier tliey move about by means of canoes, iisiidly a few 
 familii's together, living- on the lilt of the land, namely, waterfowl, (ish, berrie.-, cSic.. while fur taken 
 at tlii> season being ■ : little value they live a rather la/y life. l!el()re the end of the aulumn they 
 Hud '.lieir way to their separatt- trading po>l-. ancl then take a number of supplies reipnred for tlm 
 coining winter ' in ilebl,' the amount of which dipeiiils on the trader's o[>ini(>n as to their hunting 
 pouer--. With ilii< they make oil' to the region of iheir intended winter hunting grounds, st'iiu times 
 prosecuting a (isheiy before the setting in of winter. Dining the winter they form their tent-- in a 
 more pi riiiaiii Ml in.'iiiner, in orihr to resi.st the cold, and ilo not ofieii shift tiicir cain[)s, from whence 
 they trap, l.uul. and gradually accumnlali- fur. .Some keep a (islu ry going the whole lime loi- their 
 subsistenei-, bill necasioually, oil the fiilure ol' this and the searcilv of .game, ihev are reduced to 
 great straits for e\i>lence ; caninbali>m i-, however, rarely h^ard of. 
 
 .Siaue of the men may vi>it ihe fort during llu' winter for the |iiiipo~e orobtaining a few ailditional 
 supplies. When ti;e rivers open in the -priiig they depend largely on waterfowl for their sup|)iirt, 
 and make their way to tin" foils, «liere, it they have been successful in hunting dnriiig the winter, 
 they [iiy oil' their debts, and procure amiiiiiiiilion and other ici|iiisites with the iialaiue of their furs. 
 Il is customary aUo in the country .iround Lake \\ini[iegaiid tlie .Sa-halciiewan to givi- eacli Indian 
 a present of rum on his p.iying oil' hi-, debl, and moreover (allhough 1 believe it is against the 
 regulations of the lluilsoii's iSay (.oiiipany) to sell him more liipior if he w ishcs il for his i-xira furs. 
 1 must .say, hovvevi-r, that the gentlemen of the fur trade ;ii\' in many ca^es driviii to this practice 
 by till' competition kept up in some pariB of the couiuiy by the petty traders. 
 
 I'niirii; IikHhiis.' 'l\\v lite ol' a Prairie Indian is of a more free and independent nature. During 
 the summer he roams about the plains lollmving the biiifalo, and living on them, and in the winter, 
 camped Usually in the shelter of woods, he still lives on bulfalo, of which he oiien catches numbers 
 at a lime by mentis of the "pound." These Indians, although inlialiiting the comparatively small 
 portion of prairie country, oulnimiber all the other Indians sCiiltered over the inlerim- east of the 
 Rocky Mountains. They live usually in large bamls, seldom less than -11) tents, l-JO lighting men, 
 or fint souls together, '1 li< y exist entirely by the billfalo, the skins of wiiieli are dies-c.l for shoes 
 and other clotliiiig, aud uloo for their tents. They seldom eat unythiuj^ but buUalu beul) uiid 
 
 G 2 
 
 i' i 
 
■IS 
 
 rAPKIlS UKLATIVK TO THE 
 
 h 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
 accuimilnto tlii> diiid nu>nt and ifrcaci- of tlio nnlnial, as well as the skins, for trade. 1 lu'y own 
 mmiln'r.; of iidhIc-s ,iii>1 '.Ic),'s, Wlicii Aunt of Minmnnitioii, tobacro, knivf^ or otiicr lU'CTs-^arit'o, tliey 
 visit one I'T till' iiMiliii:; lort-i, wliirli, mi iiit'diiiil ot tlic iimnhiT-i d' Indians who copu- in tn tiadc at 
 till- same tiiiii", arc- "^iimimidoil l)y lu^li Moi'kadi's lor drl'i'mr in iMse of distnrbanco. Spirilnuns 
 lirioMis arc traded »r/ ///"V"w, and tlu'Mrnitt of driiiduMuicss an<l riot witneHsed on liie arrival of 
 a i.aiid of prairie Indians are almost beyond dc^eription, snlHee ii in lliis jilaee to say that the anionnt 
 of "ill-wa'.er d rnni wliieiiis ^ivcn in exclianne is o!' bnt slij^iit value when roiiiparcd with the 
 prov liions, skins, and lior.-es ohiaineil from the Indians. .So well is the knaek i)f de:diiijr with 
 Indiiins k'lioivn by lliose enj,',i;;ed in the trade, that it is rare to hear of any serious distnrbanet.'. 
 GiMis, blanki ts, eiolh. lobaeeo, ainnnniition. knives, Ke. are t)btained by tliese Indians at the forts, 
 but tliev are not nearly so niueh depiiideiit on the whites as the wood Inthans before deseribed. 
 
 Xiiiiihirs iif IikHivih. — Aeccu'dinj; to the most ri'iiable estimates, the nnnd)er of wood Indiius of nil 
 tribes east of the IJoek Monnt.iins, exehidinj,' Canaila, is '.'(l.tHKl, while the prairie Indians trading 
 on tlie Saskaeliew:iM. As-iniboine. and (JuMppelle Ivivers have been estimated at "JCi, ()()(). 'I'liia 
 inebides tho-e who aJM) trade on tin' Missoiiii, and live as mueli on one side of the line a.s the other ; 
 but didnetimi lliem, 1 think this estimate is eoiisidtrably biyimd the mark, and I regret ihiil the 
 return^ of a census ni;;ile by the orders ol tiie IhuUim's May C'ompiiny durinjj; the winter of 1K>7 anil 
 IB'iS have not vet reached this eouiiiry, which would iiave allowed tne to Irive givi^n aceiiratc returns 
 of the diir^'rent'lrilus. The l'!s(iuiinaux, who are not inelnded in the above numbers, are supposed 
 to be about 4.0(1(1. 'riins there are ahout 4(»,(tt)l) souls, whose welfare it would be but rifflit to 
 eon-ider wluii makiiiu' ])i i-ion lor the fr'>verinnent of the eonntry they iidiabit. 
 
 There is Imt one tiiM( \ in e.\isleiue wilh any Indiairs on the Mrililh siile of -1!)°, and this was a 
 bargain in.rle bv LokI Selkirk with ihe t'liiif of the lied River t iiippeways, for the land on either 
 side of lu(l Kiver abine what is known as^tiie " .Suijar I'oint," extending: as far back from the river 
 as " on a clear div a man can be di-tiiiifuished from a horse ; " while the Americans have made 
 tnities and boii'rlit liuid to the verv jiiot ol' the lioeky Mountains. I5ui this sysu-m of treaty making 
 wiili alioriu'iiie^ mav be id)ust'il, and witlmnt doid)t the payment of an annual sum and his removal to 
 a distant loeilitv cm hardly be called a reeomiienee lo the Indian, who, if be j^oci not willinirly, is 
 forcL-d lo 1,'ive wav ;o (lie while m:'ii. If he coiiid still li\e in tlii' way in which he h.is been bronoht 
 np, then tlu' i>avinent of beads, blanket- and other iiiticle- of Indian n-e would be a liur reconipeiiie ; 
 but wilh civilization ch)sin!i in upon him the-e tliin!,;^ only serve to hel[) liiin to drag out a mi-erable 
 , existence in a (t . h lu) miserable country. No, the permanciu benefit which 
 Itfii Irnrfi. ^^,|,,|jj K, [„, coiitencd oil the Indian i>. that ;■ s lie cannot live much longer by the 
 chase he sliould !)i' laii^iif lo live by the soil, Th. Indian- alihon^h they are i)rten called " wild 
 " iiiiiutoi'ed lieii'.es, ' when lliey do spi nk ii-iially speak io the [loint : and as wlu'ii travelling in the 
 inieriiir I loik every o]ii)oriunity of conver-iii^f with tin ni on the subject of which iliey conid give mc 
 the l)e.-t .iiforin.itidii, namely, '.heiir-elves, I sludl here .i'>' .-ome ol their i<leas on their present state 
 and their v, i-hcs i.a to the future. 
 
 Liiliiiii 'J'iilL<.— I ni;iy ju'enii-c by -aying. that in holding a tulk " with Indiiins, I always fust 
 nlaiiily -; iti'd that I hiid been -ciil out by I ler Mije-ly i()r the piiipo-i' u\' i xaminlngand mapping the 
 eouiilrv. and \'<v iiejiiiri'ig into the stati' of the Indians of the liiirennl tribes; that thi' (^lucn li;id 
 .=eiit iliviii no pre-eiits because she did not know whether they were good or bad pi ople ; and I 
 nsualy ^l;■^■d that the reason of my travelling with so fiiuill a party was because I inisled to 
 ihw. i.v.... \v and goiiil faith: at the same time explaining to tliini tii:.t in our C(iUnlry we hull 
 very luge mms which would kill ,"t a long dijlanee. and that in one battle there were as often 
 nii 111 inv kilhd as iheir wliMie inhe nninhcred. I would add that I v. - sure Her ^lajesty would 
 be ,t;laii to hear a geol r. poi t of them, and if tlieyhid any ine.-sagi.- lor Her that I would lake 
 it down in writing, in which ihi-y h ive ure.it l.iiih. I made no piomises of rewards for good 
 conduct, or anything; of that sort, but siid that I should report wdiat I Ic 1 seen. I refused all 
 presents of hoises, robes, or oth' r things, telling I'leiii that I couM not take as I could not repiiv , for 
 Uiey always expect pp.ymcnt. 
 
 Alur the spiechcs were over we u^ed to c ury on .'i go: 1 deal of talk in (jue-liiuis and answers, 
 which elicited much Viduable infoniiatioii. 
 
 Slatr of LkHiiiis. — There Were very few who on commencing losjiak did not ii eiitioii that they 
 were v. ry poor, that they were very thin' fill lo Her Majesty for thinking about them in the inanner 
 detailed in a portion of a sp'.'ech given hi Ai'.peiidix H. 
 
 The Indians of the S.i.-katchewan have generally the idea that the Ib'ilish have a right to 'he 
 
 country in which the Hudson's Day C'onipaii\ tiade, ::nd they do not wi-h llial it should eo into the 
 
 hands ol'ot: • rs, altiinucrii they lue awaie that the Indians on the Americin -ide receive payments for 
 these hinds, and in jai t many of die IJIaekfei t, who-e hiinling jjroiiiul is div, tied by the boundary line, 
 unil who actually rcci ive the yearly paymenis, have told nie tlial they do not wish pavmeiit for their 
 lands, for they have the idea tliat the payments bring sickness am:)ngst tiiem. The" Indians of the 
 prairie arc, however, ojipo.sed to the country becoming settled up like the Red River, which many 
 have seen and all lie:ird (4'. They would wish there to be plenty of wild aninrd-, and tliat the traders 
 (whom they consider to be under the immediate eonind of Her Majesiy) i^honld be made lo pay them 
 good prees lor the produce of the chase. This, however, they know cannot last long, for vear by 
 year inc'v see t!ie animals dicrea-e, and allhongh they consider that they will last tlnir time, and that 
 by them they ^^lll be able to keep themselves m toliaeco, aminiinition, and oiher rei|nisites, and have 
 an occasional drinking bout, yet they know too well, as one man expressed himself to mc," II' this 
 " coniinucs ourchii'iien cannot live;" and wik reon 1 have ^aid thai in our coiiniry we were alile lo 
 /ivii in 'epeiideiitly ol il.e chase by keeping domcslie cattle, growing crops, making "cloth, &e., I have 
 
 certain 
 some km 
 Indian I 
 of the C' 
 the dille 
 means at 
 shonhl li 
 which tl 
 who nnd 
 rien nsei 
 at these 
 gtronu;lv 
 The" 
 laid out 
 The doll 
 seld.)n» I 
 agency, 
 in the si 
 
KXPLOUATION OF BRITISH NORTH AMKUICA. 
 
 49 
 
 nhvnys hoon nskcd to use niv best iiilliR'iuc to Imvc people sent out to l)iing up tlieir cliililren to iliis 
 way of livinj,'. 
 
 ,l//,s',> /»«»■, — y\iu\\ of tliem liiive .-rcii nii-i^inii.iri. ,.iirl some liavc, peiliiips, dciived S|Hiitiiiil heneCu 
 
 from tliem, l)iit as they sny of tli( " llic.-e piayiiii; rliiefs te.l ih wlmt wi- mi;;lit to do {iiiil .-oiiu liiiiiH 
 
 " give u.>< loliaeeo wlicii we atteiiil llicir elmri'li j^iillieriiii:^, l)iit ue eauiiot iilwiiys live in one place 
 " as tliey do, JK-eiinse we niii->t liniil t'ur «)ui' iihii-teiiee ; liiii llu'V ean do .-n liciMiije lliey have ;,fo()ds 
 " Bent over tlu' "en with wliidi llit-y buy llie provioioiis whieli we furninh. If it were not for us tiiey 
 " eoidd not rein.dn hire. ' 
 
 'I'iii:! is true (iioiigli, and as these reniarkrt have led to the sidijeet, 4 willhire noiicc the progress 
 of niissioniiry cnlerpri,«e in tlie interior. 
 
 15—11. 
 I.vniAN Missions and Si.iti.I^.micnis. 
 
 Mtssioiiaru's. — 'I'he first ndrtsionary wiio (.niered Itiiperi's Land, Mr. \\'i'st, was sent out hv the 
 CInn'eh Mis^-ionary Society in IH^O. Hi' 1 -tahlished a uii^'ion at l!cd Uiver .Settlenunl lor the 
 beuelit of Scoich -etticrs, half-iineds, and Indians. Siiuc tliat tinir tliire have been many uiisbionaries 
 HCiit out by lliid aiul other .societic'^, and tlicv innnber at presiiil — 
 
 t hnreli of Kn^laiid - - - -Jt) 
 
 Wesleyans - - - - 5 
 
 I'resbyleiiaii - - - . 1 
 
 Hourwi C'alhidic. about - - - l.> 
 
 be.sides many nalivi' and other sih'iolniasti rs. 
 
 Out of the -411 cli'rg\uie:i one half arr at the Iliil l!ivc r Sciilenicnl, where tlie jirealcr part of ilii'ir 
 work Is ainoni; the hall'-brceds and white re*idenls, who, ii' hit to theior.elves, wmilil be well aiile, 
 and. ill most eases, widiui; to support their own eleriry riid schools. At iieil IJlvir, however, liic 
 neec<sarii s ami many of the Inxiu'ies of eivili/e(l life are to lie hail, be^idv'-i whiili a rvuiilar po-lal 
 coininiiniciit ion beinj:; kept up with the Inited .*>tati .■', it serves a^ a sort of traiirillon ehandier in 
 whieli the luisiienarv, fle^h Iroin the relilieiiienls of home, may !)»• somewhat iiie[iared for lil'c jn the 
 wilds. The remainder aie scaiteied thrnuiihi'Ut the Indian eoiiutry, from 1 In ison's Day to ne;ir iho 
 l{u(!ky Mountains, and from lUnl Il'iver lo i'oit .Sim[)-,on on Macki'iizit- Kiver. tiie e-.tal)lished stations 
 belli!,' inarkid on the inai). 
 
 EffWls proiliir:!. — I'lie ell'eets produced by the missions are not so apparent as Iroiti the missionary 
 reporis (diaritable snb-crilu is would lie led to Mippn-e, wlicn lliey se ■ a ^ain of ro ni.inv hundred 
 C'hri.tians or a certain iinmber of extra eoininnnieaiits over the year previous. I'or how niaiiv of 
 these s i-called (-'hri'ii ins are even in oiitw,ir<l loriii woriliy of the n line ■* 1 .nil sonv to sav ( hut 
 were I not t > d 1 so I -.hoiil I be eoiirliiiif ajipiobation at the e\pense of truth that there are but 
 verv few "Chrislim Indians ' who do not still ri'|) i-.^' im|iliiit laith in the coiijiiiinij tent and 
 medicine m.in. lew, indeed, there .ire in eivili/e'l life wh) eaii or on'.,'lit to he e.dled re.il Clirislians. 
 I will not eoiunient on the ineril-, or deim rils . " niis.^louaries or of the system, biil as the •' li,'ht of 
 " Christianity ' is S) favonrie an exprcs-ion, I wo ild adi how can it be e.x[iei!ted that this li.;lit can 
 be disseminati'd without the atmosphere of eivili/:ition. 
 
 At two place-; only has the doiiie-ticiition of the Indians been in the ler.s! elfected, ii.nnely, lio--;vi!le 
 near .Soruay House, by the \Ve-.liyaii .Mis-iouary .'^ociity, and at the ■• Indian SellleinenI ' on lied 
 KiviT by the Church Missionary Sueiety, At these tlu' impiovemcnt is aopareiit ; althuiijli the 
 uiissionarics b.ive neither tlie power nor the mi'ans of cairyiu:; out all their objects. 
 
 The fact of missionarii's beiiii,' by llieir positimi forced to trade and bari^ain with the Indians hat) a 
 bad elleet. for the Inliaiis eoine to look ii[ioii them as traders workinu; for tiii'ir own beneiii. .\nd 
 anothi r evil which iint'oi lunalely eiiuiot so e isily be remedied i^, when the Indians si e a iul>sic>nai'y 
 ef oin' persuasi'in worl.iiiL; :i'.jain-t one of another, they liei.;in to think uhieh ol the two is to be 
 believed, for each says the other is doiiiLC wronu'. 
 
 Jiiiliiiii ('iimiiiisahiiii'r nil I Sitllniifiils. — Takiiiu; into consiileralioli all tli.il biis hem ui!j;ed, I wcuihl 
 p.".)|)ose the appu'iiilnieut of an Indian Coinmi-'sioner lor the interior of lirilisli North .Vinerica, whose 
 iu-st duty should be to travel tliroufih the eoiiiitry, vi.sitiug thedill'ereut tribes of Indians, and selecting 
 certain locations in the more liahii.ihle portion for Indian a^ricultnr.il settlements; r.ltluaiLih, with 
 some knowhd^'e of Indian character, he should be at the same lime in no «ay connected with the 
 Indian by blood, but au;ents whom ho would employ minht be hall' liiei'ils or others used to thew.avs 
 of the eonutry. \ cert lin sum bciitjf placed at his dispo-.il, he would procce(l to e-talili-h aneiiciesat 
 the dillireiit points selected, and in carry in.j; them out he should select at lir-t (aeeordiiig to the 
 means at his disposal) one or two place-, where the buildinLjs and other recpiisites of the ;iL;euey 
 shonbl he completed, iind the au:riculiur;d iinph'uients and stock be supplied as soon as[iossibIe; after 
 which the stall' lor the a'^eiicy >lionld be located. This would probably consist of a superintendent 
 who nndi'r.--tood limning; a m'IiooI teai'her. a cirpeiiter, and ]i,rliaps a blaek-initli. wi;h I'.vo or more 
 men used to f.irmiii;; and gener.d wurk. Missionary societies should be invited t < e-tablish mi-sions 
 at tlii'se .settleini tits, a certain portion of land bi'ing allotted for that [iiirpo-e. I v.icil I, however, 
 strongly ri'commend no favour being shown to any p.irtienlar :-ect. 
 
 The Indians of a ci'rtain disiiict would be I'ueonraged to settle on lauds which wMiild be ivgnlarly 
 laid out on tin- reserves, and they w(mi1(I receive help from the agency in imtting n|) buildings, \e. 
 The domi'stiedion of old per-ou-;, who all their lives havi- been ;u'cn.«tomed to roam at huge, must 
 seld am be looked for; but the great [loint is lo get them to live about or frciinently to visit the 
 agency, so that the children (whom they have great objection to part with) m ly lie ni.-itr;icie,l, both 
 ill the Bcliool and fariii or workshops, yiiiidav should be given 14) for religious instruction luiJ 
 
 * G 3 
 
50 
 
 PAPERS RELATIVE TO THE 
 
 itoixlcnt xhoiild be iillouod in iii> way to iiitcituro will) the iiiinHiniiiiricN of 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 
 f 
 
 (I, iind fvcrv Iiuliiiii should 
 
 rppiviition, nnd the fiiipcriii 
 
 wlmtfViM- ilonoiniiiiilion. A imiiliir cciili' of puyiiuiiis !<hoiil(l In- adoplid 
 
 ivci'ivi- rcinimci'iitidii lor miv work duiu' on llif iiyciicv. 
 
 Kvcrv ('.\fi-tioii>lioiilil lie iiM'd to j,'allur a lar(,'i' aiiioiiiit olfloik as early as portsililr, liicaiii.o many 
 (it'iln- inoiT iiiT'il individuals iniulit take to sucii work as latili' ktvpiui;, ami tin rcliy livin;^ about the 
 placv allow their liiildren to he iiistrueii d. A un'dicid man should he inider the orders td" tiic 
 C'oMinii^sioiu'r. who eould iravid ahout, vi^itin;,' the liulians lor the lunpce of vae«inatiii^' them and 
 <;ivin ; niediial advice. 
 
 ImlliiH llifinrs. I would reeonnneud that the dilVerent portions of country to he kept as Indian 
 rc.si'rvi's he at oiu'e delinrd, and due notice uivpu that any persons beside,- Indian- selllinL,' on these 
 iraetswoMul, when re((nireil. hau'toi;i\e up po,--e--ion without leunini ration. Moreover, in order 
 to previ'Ut llidians heintj dispus-^esstMl of their I, Hid-, a law simuld he inacled |ireveulio;; the tran-fer 
 of laml from the Indian to tlic white man or half-breed. 
 
 Tiintiitiiif of lniUiins.~\ have previoiifly mcntioiu-d (Appendix II. ) that ahhoiiuh I travelled amonj; 
 InrfU' numbers of Indians, I liad never any dilllculty wiili iliem. This I atlrii)ute mainly ii> having 
 always appeared to repose entire conlidence in them, an 1 never atteniptiufi to pass throiii{h any 
 partOf tile (cnntry un-een, lor the Indians are such adept- at stealiuj.', deccivinii. and other under- 
 lianil iiractiei'.-, that if ruMUivse he had to the-e meai<nres, they are laiiy too ready to follow up to your 
 dis.ulvantaixc ; hut ou the eoiitrarv, deal w ilh an Indian openly, and tru-t to hi- honiuir, (■' there is 
 '• honour aiuoni;- tliie\os."} and you may usually rely u|ion his actinij; fairly. 
 
 Missiiiiiani ISi/stnii. — In the c .irly pages of thi- -ection I lia\e endeavoured lo i,'ive a f.iilhful jiieturc 
 ot' the pre-eiil state ol the .aborigines, w hiU' in the latter pari I have -el forlh (hut necessarily omitlin<^ 
 iiniui'rous details) ui\()\Mi view- of the manner in which they may be most lieiieliled, liu' I am 
 inclined to the oj'inioii that the wild man is not altof^eiher incapable of eivili/aliou ; but at llu' same 
 time, from the imuierons examples of the obji'cts of the pre-eiit missionary .s_\stem which hiive eome 
 under mv notice. I am convinced that scatterinj,' abroad the seeils of Christianity without simnl- 
 taut'ousiy prepaiiiiLt the nnlnnkeu iauti Itir its reception is of little avail. .'*ome seeds of course I'allini^ 
 in favouii'd sp its, s[irin;j: up and hear fruit, hut tlu-e are only excc|ition>, uhich do j^ood only so far 
 . s to show Us what the soil is ea]iable of prodnting. Many of the iiiihi-irioiis ,ind self-denyinrf 
 missjdiiariis would repeal llie-e worils, but the I'.iidt <loes not rest with them, they carry out all that 
 their niians will allow, and can only look to a chani^e in the system for the advancement of the 
 cause. 
 
 I feel sure that, owiuit to the piev.iilinu; opiiTuni of mi-sionarles and mi-sionary work, some of my 
 siateiueiits wiU not be icceived without he-it ilion. but 1 mu-t simply say. that in the eas(^ where the 
 inti't'estsif m;iny .are at st ike in opposition to the prejudices ol a i'vw, I have only indeavoiired to 
 prcsont the picture ill an iiiipaitial huhl. I might have entered into det.dls and proliieiil eXiimples 
 in order to -ubstantiati; llie-e htalemelits. but this, while seiving to increase the volume of an imperfect 
 
 yet la'ionous eoiupilatioii, wouli 
 
 d only 
 
 ive "convinced ayram-t tliiir w 
 
 ill •' tir 
 
 lose who W(HI 
 
 Id 
 
 of the saiui opinion still." I therefore elo.si' the remarks w itli the expression ol' a w i>h that son 
 
 remain 
 
 liiy 
 
 le iiu 
 list ice. 
 
 bleed to hiok into this m.'itter, so intimiitelv connected with the calls of hnmaiiitv, relitjion, and 
 
 1!.— m. 
 
 \Viim;s AM) IIai.i-miu.ds. 
 
 /(////(• (///(/ lliill-lii-riil Iiili'il.ilimlf. — I have thus far spokin only of the aboriginal inhabitants. 
 There are ye! two other cla-cs, tln' whiles and the lia.ll breed-; the iiirmer mostly ( )ikiiey and ,Scotcli 
 Millers, and tiieir iKscendaiil- at the lied Hivir Seltlemeiit, and o.llceis and men who h.ive been or 
 lue at present in ihi' fur tri.de: while the latter are the oll'-piiiig of the loriiiir Jiiid Indians, a- well as 
 their desi cudaiit-, and being of all shades, Iroi'i the alino-t pure icil iiiaii lo the white, are a molley 
 J iipiila'.iuii. Altogtil.er the uhi;^' and hall-breed iiopidatioii of the interior numbers about h-MlOO, 
 I Iwhieli one-half are at l{id llivcr, 'I he liall-bneds, who con.stitute by far the greater propoiiion, 
 leinLr about fivi' to one. aie diMiKcl into two c l.i.sses, uenerally ealleil in the country I'"ri iicli and 
 iinglish, the fnriiier being di'sceii ad from I'rencii Caiiadians. and the latter from .Scotch and Knglish, 
 < re(MS the mother tongue, but almost the whole also s|ieak either Cinadiaii i'rencii or lOngli-h. 
 i lie occupation ot mo-t of ihe-i' p-ople is hiintiii!r an I vovagiiiLi'. the (irst on their own account, and 
 the iatler in the [lay of the Ilud-on's Hay Coiiipaiiy or Ued lii\er na'rehauts. '1 hey are rem.irkablv 
 adapted for either of these eiiiploymenls, hut there are very lew who make good larmers. 'I'lie old 
 .Scotch settlers and their de-eendants are the real farmers at the IJed Uiver, where the soil being 
 I scellent, the only drawlack to agriciilinre is the short and soiiu'times intirrupted duration olTiot 
 Mcatlicr. 'J he hall-breed- aie iialiirally intilligent, anil are nio-lly very ,ipt at [licking up any handi- 
 craft, tlii'lr principal failing being instability of character. 
 
 MHitari/ r'ciiri; — Should there be occasion foi' a military force to be kept n]> in the interior, an 
 I iiicieiit ciirps of inounled troops could be raised at lied Uiver, which, for rapid movements and 
 lecoanoiiring or outpost duty in a couiilry where the means of snbsisieuce for man and horse have 
 lo be drawn from the wilderness it would be particularly adajited, whih- it would be diUlcnlt to Iind 
 a class of people more suited to this kind of service thanthe half-breed-. The raising of such a force 
 on an emergency would be a task of very short duration, as the general lire-arms in use in the 
 country are all of one calibre, and a large store of ummiiiiition, incliuiing ready-made bnlleis, is 
 always on hand. 
 
 a iaige cl 
 and aiiotl 
 
 i!e-i(h| 
 of ( )llelj 
 in:ieilinei| 
 boat wasl 
 There wl 
 of traiis[| 
 distaiice.| 
 
 J wil 
 just desc 
 
 The 
 exteiule 
 it gave 
 lusted til 
 
KXl'LORATION OF BHITISII NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 At 
 
 0— I. 
 DrvFLoi'MPNT 1)1 IlrsouniK.s. — Mi;ans nv Com.mink atids with nir. lNTi;nii)ii. 
 
 Ilimlf* ,0 till- Iiifiriiir. — 'I lii' m-vitiiI lines ot'iiitt mill coiiiiniiiiiiulioii wiili tiir iiuiri' iioitlu'i'ii |mr(H of 
 till* t'oiitiiic'iit iirNiiilli Anicrii'i luiii;; ititiinitclv ('iiinicclcil with tlu' ili'vi'lii|iineiit nf ilic rt'iouri'iM 
 of till' riiiiiiii V iiiiclcr I'lin-iilciMiiiin. i will lici'i' i iiiiiiu'ralc tlit'iii, cuiiiiiicnrin;; with tlic iioitli. W'c 
 liiiil ii rivir (ililic {\\*\ chi'S, tiic M.icki'n/.lf, lloAiii;; iiitn tlu' Airtii' Sir,; cii ili" west the C'nliimlii.i'a 
 hrani'lii'n ciii'in iii;^ ilic \\('->lri'ii uiilri-. I'niiii rlivcii ilr^ici'^ ol biiiiiiilc of iln' Itiii'kv MuiiiitaiiH to the 
 I'lU'ilif Auaiii. iVoiii lln' (iiilt Hi .Mexico, tln' iiaviialilc uaici'* iil' ilic .Mi-.-.i-.-i|i|ii aii<l Mi-~i,iiii reach 
 till* latitiiilc'* <il' l.'i 1111(1 't<^° iinrtli, ill llic Very out I'l' nf tlu- CDiiiiiiuiit, and tliu I'liiim (.'tcil > liaiii of 
 tlic (ti'riit liuko I'xli'iiiliii;; <»■<' tlioiisitiil iiiilr.i \«(<<l 1)1' till- All.iiitic ."ca-hnai'il, wliijc tlic iiiii'tli-cast 
 U |it III iiatrd (Ic i'|ily li\ ill)' i^riat iiilaiiil ~fi\ nl Ilii'Non'H IViy. iSiit -'I'ltln;; aMiilc llit* M.ii'ki'ii/.ii' on 
 iiccoiiiit III' il-. Aii'iir >itiialiiiii, and tlic ( oliiinlii.i, wliii'li. alilion'jii <<t'i'\ iri'.dili' to tlii' Nuiih l'a>'||lc 
 Stall s of till' Aiii; I'iiaii I liinii, ran liavi' l)ill lilllo iiillni'iu'c on llrili-li trii'itoiy, tlici'i' ii'IiliIii luiir 
 |)iiiiil- lo w>iii'li llir ciiinuitiniialiiin rniiii tlii' t'iviji/id wmlil ir< hy uatrr, and wliicli wc may call ha-ics 
 of a|>|)i'iiarli lo till' iiiti'iioi' ol' iirili^'li Noilli Anii'i'lca. 'I licy an' llnil^on's itay, l.iiku SiipL'i ior, the 
 licad ol' tlic iiaviiralioii ot'llic Mis^i-iippi, and tlic iiio."<t norilicrii part ol ilu Mi-souri. I'loiii the first 
 tiii'i'o ol'tlicM* coniii'xion with the inlcrior kia.-i li«cn hillici'to inaintaincil. and aUhoii;;li a lai'i^c Indian 
 Inidc has lici'ii pinsi'iiiicd on the Ujiper Mi--oiii-i, yet, owiiii; to the ali^'enee of any xtllcMicnlH in 
 thai le^^iou, it li.i- not i'xleii<led into ilie liriiish pip.i'<e->iiins. il is ainio-i needless to s.iy, tliil cMei nal 
 I'oinninnii' iiioii liy -leainlioaf^ eaii he kept up during; the entire ^iiniiin r -e isim wiili the iliiee -oiiihern- 
 most of tlie.-c ha'-ii*, while tlii' iinpediinents ollered liy ice to the iiavi;r,iiiiin of Hudson's Siiait.s and 
 Hay precludes the ii^i' of that Imse for more tlian from xix to ten weeks of llii' latier part ot'siniiiimr 
 and aiiliniin. 'I'liiis, althouirh it is principally liy means of llmt route that the fur trade has licen 
 pushed to its pre-eiil exleiil, yet we can h.inlly look forward to its heiii;^' iiscil to a iiiiich i,neater 
 extent in fiilnre. We have, iherefore, three li.iseti left, whiih, with their inlenial and extmial ron- 
 licxioiis, are of the fiii'ali st importance to llie fiilnre uf the eoniitiy under eon-idciatioii. 1 -liall at 
 present, hoHcver, only descrihe the roulis as hitherto in use, leavin;; the con>idei'.itioiis with respect 
 to tin- eiU'ourajiemeiit of any particular channel for the next section of this report. 
 
 J/iii/son's Jliii/ (tiiil J.(i/if Sii/Mriiir Jloiilis, — 'i'lie ordinary lioat route hetwecii lliidson's May and Lnke 
 \\iiiipeii, and the lioals in n-e on it, has hecu desisrilied (sei' Aiipni lix I.;, and in its presiiit .slate 
 has been nsed for many years as the principal outlet of the interii.r. The other water CDiiiiexion, 
 nsnally called the "( anoe Koiile,' has heen fully it'porled on l>y the iheCanadian expedition in 
 Ir^.")/ and lf<.")^ (sei- I'ailiameiitary Paper, il.ited June Irt.'dl^. 'I'his was in lieipieiit use at the time 
 of the (!()iiipelitioii lictween the Hudson's l>ay and Nortii-west I'lir ('oiiipaiiies, hut from llii! niiiiU'rous 
 ohsiriictions precliidiicj; the Use of any craft but hark »'anoe.s ovi'r a ^{real portion of it, it has lallerly 
 I'allcii into disuse, except for personal coiivcyanoc. 'I'he distanci' from Lake .Superior to Lake 
 Winipcji is .")(!(• miles. I shall have to speak of a inodilieatioii of this route proposid liy the Cauadiun 
 cx|iedition in its jiroper place. 
 
 idil /lln r (111(1 St. I'diil I'diiti . — Till' third iili'ans of cominniiication with the eivili/ed world, allhou^di 
 not thronjfli Hrilish leiritory. yet haviiii;- heen for some years extensively used liy lirilisli snhjects, 
 who carry on hy iis means .i yearly angmentini,' trade, is eiitllled to a description lure. 'I'his is the 
 overland route hetwcen lied IJiver and .Saint I'aiil on the Mississippi, and may he said to consist of 
 two reiiularly frei|Ueiitcd trails, alt1ion<;h iiiiich of the country lieiiiif of an open charocter, ii is not 
 necessary ,,iway.- to follow these trail-. The one hy the east is iisu illy called the "wood road," and 
 the other, i,ee|iiiiy; more on the o|ieii prairie to llie west of lied Kiver, is ealli il the *• Prairie " or " Plain 
 lload." Small parties have usually followed the loriiur, on aeeoiiiit of the ho^iiliiv ol the .Sioux 
 Indians, who fre(|iieiit the I'ounlry nnne ])ai ticularly to the west of lied River. ISotli these trails will 
 be .«ceii marked on map. 
 
 The iiiodiMif Iraiisptut employed for merchandise is by means of lijiht oak carts drawn bv sinirlc 
 horses or oxen (see '* Means ol 'rraiispoil," c. iv.), and the conntry luiii;;- in a state of nature, ilic 
 travelling is -o rough that tlii' roads are not l:eav\ iior is the pro'^rres-; ra;iid. Ilic distance, which dilVer.'i 
 little by I'ither trail, is fnuii l''ort (iarry to .Saint Paul ahout ."lilO miles, which distance is accomplished 
 ill from three to four weeks, according to the load> and state of the country. It ha- been n^iid for 
 a large caravan of traders to leavi.' Kid Uiver Seltlenient liom the l^t to the lOtli of .luiie annually, 
 and another trip is usually luade in the fall of the year. 
 
 iiesidcs this land route there is ii way of getting by canoe up the Hod Itiver, and by a poriai^c out 
 of ()tter-tali' Lake on to C'raw-wiug Kivir llowing into the .Missssippi. And in hrin^ing the 
 macliincrv and boiler for a sle.ini mill from tiie I'nited .Slites in l.-^.jli, a '• skow " or llat-liotlomcd 
 boat was constrncted on the upper pari ol Kid lliver, by which it «as traiis|)orled to the selth iii'Ut, 
 There Was, however, this season, a small steamer plying on Ked Kiver, which wid lacilitaie the nieana 
 of transjiort at the iiortherii end of the route, by [iroviding water e.irriage for nearly half the entire 
 distance. 
 
 1 will now jiass on to give a sketch of what has been achieved with tiie means o\' coinmiHiication 
 just described, and in comuieiicing 1 would dr.nv attention to the fur trade. 
 
 ('.— 11. 
 TiiK I'm Trade. 
 
 Till! fur tiade commenced on the shores of Hudson's liay nearly two centuries since, and gradnsllv 
 extended inland ; but when the Nortli-we--t Compaiiy pushed their w;iy from Canada into the intirior, 
 it gave an inipul e to the ellorls of the llii.Isoii's liay riiiiip;;iiy, and deling the i oiujieMl.on uhicii 
 lu»teil till Iti'Jl, the connlrv wiu explored luid the trade pushed to great uxient. Since ihe union of 
 
 G 4 
 
 I -< 
 
1 
 
 f 
 
 k 
 
 r*} 
 
 52 PAPERS UKLA riVK TO TIIK 
 
 tlu< tw„C.mipaiii.>s, tlic frulo liiis bciii (.iu'ri.<#riilly, alilioufjli inoiv juicily pursiiod. and nnlwitli- 
 «tui.liii"- ilMt witliiii tlu- l.i>t iVw MMi-s till' i>n.\imity of an Ahuiumm maikit has m.huv.l a nmnl.er 
 ill ilu' mli'biliiiis 1)1' til.- iiiKst SDUllifiii iii.rtimi ol i1k> iiiU-rior to trallii' in I'ms, tlior.'ln- r.iiMnt; (lie 
 pi-iir- in tliat luit ; vtt tlif trail.' vamini ..n bv tlu- llu.lscn's l?ay ' '..nipany in oiIut ilisiiu-is has 
 alti'iiMl lull litili', sivi- in its fXlonsiDn nmtliwaul ; an.l as l.nt little is known ol the I'oniluct ol tins 
 iHiuliir irado, I will pvi- s,.nK- ilisiTii.lion olil. ,,,,,,,,,,, , 
 
 y/«,/.W.v /.Vv (•«////.,(;,y.— Til.- I'm- traili' a- imiiumI on l.y tl..> lliiilsoiis May ( ompauy ov.r tlu- 
 wholi- iiurtliiM-n iiart of tlii> coDtiiuMit. Iroin tlu' Atluitu- to tiu' l\uiiio, is on a nio^t mul..nn an.l 
 I'OMipi'.h.'iisivi- sv>toni. 'I'lip \y\\vW uriit.ny is .livi.l.il iiit.> livo (l.'pariniiMits, in .ai'ii oi' uiiii'li tliiTO 
 is .1 I'.Mtain luinllur of I'stai.iislic.l \. .sts. One of tlio-o is tlu< <l.|M)t «li.'ii- liii' i;.io.ls for the tiailo 
 are iva'iv.'d Ironi Knulaiul l.v shii's ami tiii'iia- ili-tii'uiti-tl anion- the «lioh-, 
 
 lVp,.n,..nts. ■ . I ''I""- . , . „ N.-.ofr.M-., 
 
 1. Nortiiorn - \ ,iik ract.)iy. lln.Uon s liay - - (>'.' 
 
 •_>. Sonthcrii - - - Moosr I'ai'toiy - - - -l-' 
 
 :i. M.mtival - - l-arhin." " , , " ' ' '-\ 
 
 •\. Clii-on - - - ' '"■' ^ aiifonvir. W.T. - - l(> 
 
 T). U.ruiii - - \i.toila. \'.l. - - - - !•■» 
 
 Makin" alt..ui'llu r. ox.'lu<iv.' of livin.L; posts, l(il iv^nlar istalihshin.nts.^ ol win.h l(i aiv on 
 
 Aiiicrieaii uionmi. ;t7 in I'ana.la. an. I It in llio piMximi' of (.'oiuniliia an.l Vaiiconvi-i- I>lan<l. 'I'hc 
 
 in.liaiii tradiii'i at tlnie plai'.s aiv ationt l.".t».OiMt, Ini'lmiii'^ yonn;,' ami .li.i. 
 
 l\ic[fw Ihvutmnits.—'Ww t«.) (li'| artnuiit~ in tlu' I'acHic ai.' n.iw k-pi .init.' .Isiiiu-i from tin- 
 r.inaind.'i-, tlioiv not having Ihcii for sivcral year.- any r.'^'iilar I'oiiniiniiii'ation k. pt np aero-s the 
 Uoek\' -Monntaiiis. ... 
 
 I'.iifl.ru /),/',irfmriit.i. — 'l.nc\.\»i.\ lu'ar Montreal, the i-.'>idiiiei' .>t the (iovernor ol the territories, 
 forms the iKail-ipiailcrs of a'l the tr.ido on the ea.-l side of the Ihieky ?loniitain-. and thither the 
 aceo'.inls of the sipaiate departments are transniitl.'d yearly. Oftii.' Montr. ,d ihpartnu nl, which 
 curries o\\ the trade in ('anid:i, I know nutliin;:; while of the s .iiihern .hji. rlnu-nt, h:ivin^' ii.s depot 
 nt the southern extrnnily .if llii.U.ui's Hay. I know s.mply that a vessel of ah.mt ."jito t.ms sails 
 anniia!lv from Knjliiul t.i this point, with men, l'oo.Is. and provisioius for the prosecution of the 
 trade, carry iiiii hack to Knjiland the fur reinriis. The i-onntry i:i which the ira.le is prosectitcl I'ldm 
 lllene-.' is "i,Mleiallv thickly wood.'d, uiid th.' I.ii 'jer aniiiiaU not heillfi almiidanl, many skins are 
 iipplieil f.ir the use. affile s.rvanti from the n ulh.'rn cien.irtin.'lil. while >all meat and llonr are used 
 ill pla.'.' of pi'inmican. 
 
 .\i'ii'i(rii /Jry>,(///y«, •(/'.- The noiihi'in put. in which it ha- he 'n my ..aty to travel, an.l which is the 
 cniinirv more paiiiculaily in.'hi.l.il in tliis r.'port. is hy far tli.- hir!,'esi in extent ,i- w. II a- the rielie-t 
 in p.'itVi.-; and .IS a knowlcdue .)f the inl.rnal icnnmy . I ti i^ will uive a i;enerul idea of the whole, 
 1 ^llall pioi'eed t.i dcticrihe it. 
 
 Siqti'lii iif tlir Dip'i!. — .V ship annually h-i\.s th.' TIr ine- in the iiionth of .Inne. having- a very 
 mix.. I carii.), in.luiiiii'r l.laiikel-, inatciials lin- and irlicle- ..I' wearin;,' ajiparel of uoollin :,iid .•otloii 
 luamifa. tnr.'. i.ar.lwar.' ami e.irthcnware. h.a.',-. . .oh.nw, p;pes. (iie--te. Is ami other misc. 'ILine. mis 
 aftii'les ; als.i tea. .(ih..', sii^ar. li.c, ra sins, w.ne, l.iliai.'.i, -all. ilour. j^niip.iw.ler. -hot. Ii.ill. (iio- 
 arm-, iS:c. \\'hil.' another i> n-n,illy e'.iarteied hy the I'.aiipany lor the conveyan.e ol estr.i siippli. s, 
 and till' property ol' led Kiver nier. h.;!0 ; ami tln' mi-M.niH. I'lusi' lv\o ve.-.Mds, il. pending' on the 
 fclate.ifihe He in IIiiI-'h's ."^tr^.its ami lie- May. i,'eiKr,illy arr.ve .it York la.l.n-y towaiils the 
 mi.ldU' .)1' .\nun-t. Ilcr.' the di-.'haijiiiL,' of the e.iri'.o hy me.in- ot' .-.■h.i.mers (,is the ship .animt 
 c.iiiii' \iiiliiii li\.' mil.s of the liirt ) is cirri, il .in a- rapidly a possible, and liall.i.«t ol' sioius liavin;^ 
 he.n t.ii.eii in. .me ship .mly is load.'.! with tin- pack- of III'..-, -kins, and robes, and lli.'y ii-mdly, if 
 i,o-ilil.'. Hi't I'.u.iV hv ihi' middle ol S.'pt.inb.'r. in ..rd. r to have liLihl liii^hts f n' the n.ivijiati.m .d' 
 llinlsoii'- .'^tiails. 
 
 'I'hiH is the .li'iiol fur tlu' inlerim' -nppli.'il ye.irly wiih ii.'e.'-.s u-;.., fur and r.diev. .1 .if the ri'tnriis 
 of the Imh.an ti.ide ; but t.i pro\ id • atrain-l thee ii-. ipieiir.s of any iiiif. r.se.n ac.iileiil piiVi'iiting 
 till' arrival of lIu' ships, ih. re is alw.iys a tw.'lv. month - .'Xtra supply .m hand th.re. 
 
 I'.iiminiii/ I'l' tlif lull rliir. — 'I he er.iiioiiiy .if ih.' int. ri.ir i- re.iilv nolhiiiLi mor.' than the ^'eiieral 
 system carried out in parti. 'iilais. 
 
 'I his .U'[iartinint 1- tlivlded into ten iii-liiet-, . a.'h .il whi.h 1- iind.'r ih.' Miperinteml. la'e of a 
 chief fa.tor or .•hief li.id.r, a-, the .'a-e may he, who, a- in any mililary system, is r. >|ioii-ililo for 
 his whole dlsiiirt, lakiii; care that th.' work is cairie.l on pr.ijH'ily by cl.ik- or po-ima-t.rs in 
 el'arjj:e of till' -eveial istahlislmti ni<. lie has. if the dislrict he lari;e, one el.'ik eniploy.'.l as an 
 uccoimtiint, wh.ise iliiiy il i- l.i .oil. el an.l arian.e the reliirn> and a.'connls of th.' dill.r.nl l.nt-. 
 
 '1 lin peisons in th.' . iiiploynii'iii of the I liid-oii's May Coini my are a mi.\ttire of linrojn' ins ami 
 hall-hreeds, th.i-e for tiu- hi^lier urad.s enteiiiiL; :he former as appreniiee cl.'rks, and th.' latter 
 U(<.ially as appieiitice po-lin isieis. Imt e.i.'h liav.' th.' .ham e of liMiiLr to th.' ollie.' of chief il.rk, 
 whi.h il t!;e hi'^lust yiaih' to which a •.■■jjiilar s.d iry is allaelieil. anil from thence tdilainiiitj a com- 
 mis-iiin, on whicii he b.'comei a partner in tiie fnr Irad.', lir-t as chi.'f trad, r, ima.'.itiin per- 
 centage, ami ••Iterward- as chief factor with a hi^^h.'r sliar. . an.l afhr servinif a .•eilain ninnlier of 
 year-, .a ri'iirinj^ pension is all. we. 1 him. 
 
 All iir.mi.itions and appoiniineiit-, a- Weil as till' ijeneial arraii:;eiiK'nl f.ir the |iroiecntl.iii of th." 
 trade, are nnd.r the "oiitrol of a lonncil .if . oinmi--ione.| i,'.nil.'im'ii .•olleeie.l Itmn .lill. re'it di-triils, 
 who m.'.'t I very sinnmer at NoiHay lions.', at the north end of Lik.' Winip.'r, heaile.l by the 
 (i.-veino.' ol lla' t.riilDiio-. \vh() iiialM'- a hiii;.;' v.iv.iiv annnally li.i.ii .M.iiilrial for that piirpos.'. A 
 standinir accuimt \h ke[it np helweeii the ''liir trade" anil the " .sliurehulders '' uf the iindson't 
 
 Hay Cnmjiii 
 allotted. 
 
 Sum III IT J 
 at the time i 
 their boats . 
 their wages 
 year's ^v:•.J^e^ 
 
 Aeeordiiii 
 f.n- the dille 
 with their b. 
 times ill th 
 linmlri'd mi 
 " green hair 
 man is serve 
 
 // 'intiriiiij. 
 each party 
 ]>nt in repii 
 have eolleeti 
 the coming 
 all this is ovi 
 the ordinar; 
 Imilding wo 
 si.Mi.'il tradii 
 Christmas, i 
 packet," or 
 c.inrse of eo 
 " lirst goose. 
 
 Sjiriiii;.—, 
 the expeiidil 
 jiroperly ma 
 and bid. ling 
 f.'vv who r.'ii 
 
 llilihim's 
 trade, ami v 
 are in the s: 
 I'lymonih, : 
 th.it many 
 with tw.t o 
 hee.miiiig ti 
 greatest se 
 there ar.' w 
 been exp.i-. 
 civili/.'.l 111 
 
 'J '/if Soil 
 boats of 1 
 
 This is II 
 only eoin.- 
 the fir iiorl 
 car'jo.'s at 
 
 I'nilJii: 
 bringing in 
 it is direct 
 at so many 
 exists only 
 secondly, b 
 
 to .1 lix.'ll 
 
 whi.'h tlu' 
 " go. Ill Ira. 
 
 Furs. I 
 allowed th 
 h.'.'ii Hlatei 
 Indians hi 
 ill greatesi 
 badger, er 
 this coiinti 
 robes, besi 
 the " robe 
 greater pa 
 
 ( 'oin/ii/ii 
 llie exclns 
 a certain ii 
 traders lit 
 
KXTLORATIOX OF niU'riSH N'OUTII AMKinCA. 
 
 r)[i 
 
 i : 
 
 Way Company, ami ii rctjiilar yi-arly lial.im'o struck, out of wliicli the siwimI proporliims an* 
 allotted. 
 
 Snmiiiir roi/iifji/ii/.—'Vhv lirij^adis Ix'loiiLiiiiL; I" llic si'Voial districts in'iiiLrcui lluir \v:iv to llic depot 
 nt tin' time of till- council Jiisi dcMMiiicd, tlic oliiccr- in cliari,n' procrcci wiili ijiciii, and di-cliaij;e 
 tiu'ir boats of p;icl\s of furs, tlic proceeds ol' tiic pre\-1i)iis year- trade. Here liie > .ivajjiTs are paid 
 their waives in .noddies of any kinil xvliicli tiie depot all'ords, lakiiii; advanees on icconnt ot tiie next 
 year's w-.^es. 
 
 AcecirdinL; toa <ieniaiid (so faras alloued l)y conncil) made out the prececdini^ wiiiti'r, the snpplics 
 for tlio diileri'nt districts are fiiveii to tiiosc in chari^e, w ho as somi as every thing is jireparcd start 
 with tlii'ir boats on tile relm-n voyaLji' to liie inh rior, arriving at ilieir » inter cpiariers at dillcrinl 
 limC'* in the liiil of the year, accoiding to tiie distance, «hii-ii in iiio-i ca^i s aiiionnis to many 
 hniidri'd miU's. 'I'hc return of the voyagers to their wives and f.imilics. and liie iniiiaiion of tiie 
 " gri'cn iiands" into flu' realities of ln<lianlife, alliird an oppoiuinily for a siitrhl tcstivily, and each 
 man is starved with a " ri'gale " of liinior. 
 
 Hiiifiriiii/. — riic work of pre|)aration lor winter now goi s on ; •• I, ill fi>lieries arc esiahlishi'd, 
 each party is despatched lo its wintering jiost with a siipjlv nl' gowds for tin" tr.ide, the fort is 
 ])nt in I'opair, hiMi>es ''nnuhlcd" t poiiiteil i, ami other work got through: while the Indian^, whu 
 have collectc<l in expectation of the arrival of the hoal-, are furnished with miineron^ supplier for 
 the coming winti'r, on aceonnt of the tins ihcy will prohahly Iniiig in in the spiing, |{y ilic tin:o 
 nil this is over winter scls in rapidly, the lakes and rivias clusc with ici', snow covers the ground, ami 
 the ordinary winter occupations of the inmates tif the |i. its, --lu'h .1^ hoal-hiiihiing, haiiling lire and 
 liiiilding wood, lelchiiii; provisions with dog trains. Making petiiniican. sorting furs, and oci'a- 
 sional trading with Indians are taken np and continne(l with little intei nii>>ioii. >,ive a dinner at 
 t'hri-linas, a dance on the coming-in of the new year, and llie p.is>iiig of the ordinary ' wintir 
 |i,icket," or express, hringing lellers perliap- a ycai old, and l.ikim; away oilier-- which have been in 
 eoiir-o of concoction lor two or tliii'e months, and again all is (|iiiet until tin- welcome arrival oi' the 
 " fir.st goose." 
 
 S/ii iiii/.-~,\\\ is now activity, and sncccssl'nl hiinlcrs make ihc reinrns ol' the clia-e p,iy well for 
 the expinditnre of aiinniin, ion, 'I'lieii the river opens, the furs are presM'd and hound in packs 
 jtropeily mai ivi'il, and on the arrival of the l)oats from " ii]) river,' their niiinbers are ,ingiiiciited, 
 and bidding adieu to their wives ami families, llie vova'/ers and genllemeii, x\ilh the cMeption ol' a 
 few who iiiiiain " inland, " start on llieir siiiiiiiicr vova^e of perhaps hall .1 yenr'- diirarKni, 
 
 Ifitil.idii'.'i liiiii Ciiiii/iiiiii/ S,rrli;\ Such is ilu ordiniry yeirly life of iho-e > "g,:ged in this peculiar 
 trade, and when it is con-ideiei 'lial the tr.idiiig e-tal)li^lii;iriit- -eittn ed ovi r ihrir esteii-ive region 
 arc in the same lel.itiv proporlhii as if in (ileal liiilain. ihcie wa- 01.' al London, anolher at 
 I'lvmonlh, another at l.ivt rpool. and the fourlii at {'.dinbiirgh. witii no roads eoiiiiectiii'j. llaiii. and 
 that many of these so-called forts cmi-ist of one or two log honse«. where a sinnle I'.niope.iii i> loealed 
 with two or three lialldiri'i'ds only, on whom he lia-< to depend \><v a^^'slan'.•e in c,ise ol' the natives 
 bi'coinillg troublesome, I shall be l;elicv( (I when I say that in this >er\ice are in be Imiiid nun of the 
 greatest self-reliance, who an- at anv time readv to face aliiaj-l iiisiirinoiiiilabh' d;lhciiltie> ; maiiv 
 there are who have been reduced lo the vreal'sl ,siraits for means ot' .--ubsi-ienee ; other.- again have 
 been expo-ed to nnmcrims dangers by land a. id water, and yet tlnre .lie lew who when they return lo 
 civili/.i'd lili' do not wish themselves back in the di'i.ny iiniili. 
 
 'I'/if A'«/7/(.^'l"hcre are some exceptions lo llie general slatemeiil which 1 mad. \\\i\\ regard lo the 
 boats of each district going to the di|iot. 
 
 This is not till .'ase with either the .Vthabasca or Maekeir/.ie Kiver hiigade-, llie foinier of which 
 onlv comes to Norw.iy Ibmse, where they find their siippli. -. while llial Irnni Maikiii/ie IJiver and 
 the I'.ir north is mel .'t " l*ort;ige hi 1, 01 he ' by a brig.ide spii ;,illy employed, w iili w lioni they ixcliange 
 cargoes at this nine mile pinMage. 
 
 7'/v///i'c. — .\t Red ibver the trade is carried on by money, iiaper and cnin; an Indian or halfiirccd 
 bringing in fur is paid in cash for it, and he uses this ea>li in die purchase of gooib. In other parts 
 it is direct barter, article for article, or, a-, is iiiiieh the >aiiii' ihiiig, the furs and goods ■.\w reckoned 
 at so many '• made bi'avir ' or '•skins," and the good-, are pi'ci d liy the sanu' unit of value, which 
 exists only in imagiiialion. .Spirit is kept ii|i in the trade, lii-t. bv the nlheeis being pailiiei^, and 
 secondly, by a .system ol coinpi'lilioii fostered bv the letiiriis of ihe .-eveial ili-lricts, priced according 
 to a lixeil larill' ^^^not liece>saril_\ the home prices), being 'inmially l.iid before the council, and lioiii 
 which the members often judge of the capabilities of a man by seeing whither or not hi' has made a 
 " good trade." 
 
 Furs. I need not here enter into the delails of the fur trade, siillin' it to say, ihi't the goods 
 allowed the Indians for tlii' furs are in proportion to the Kiiro|iean prices, and ii i.s not a fact, as has 
 been slated, that highi'r payment is given for those le-s valiialile, in nrder to preserve others. The 
 Indians being very iiidoU'iit, are, I think, geiieiaily fairly [laid for lluir produce. The furs 
 in greatest deiimnil lire the marten or sable, lisher. mink, oiter, benver, iiiiL-k rat, bear, lynx, 
 badger, I'linine, woif, and Ton, of which the variety tailed black or silver fox v II sidl sometimes in 
 this country for 5t»/, per skin. There is, moreover, a considerabh' trade now cariied on in biilhdo 
 robes, besides which goose cpiills, isinglas-, castmaim. and oil ai'" imporled iiilo I'.iigland. Most of 
 the " robes ' go to the Amerii'.in ina"kct, but there is annually a sah" ol liirs in l.iaidon, in which the 
 greater part are brought up by continual dealers. 
 
 Com/ii/itiim. 1 have mentioned before that although the llndson's IJay t'ompany have nominally 
 the exclusive trade of all the country drained by the rivers rii'Miing into Hudson's May, yet there is 
 11 certain an°.miil of o|iposilion in that part bordering on the state of ISIiniu'soi;!, ciinsed by ,\mericiiii 
 traders liuviiig pushed up there from the Mississippi. 'I'h's is cairied fmllier iiilo the cuuiilry by 
 
 H 
 
 ■ I 
 
M 
 
 I'Al'ERS REI.ATIVi: TO THE 
 
 t 
 
 I 
 
 f 
 
 half-l)roi'<ls. wlio, Irimi hi'inir iiiitivis. clMiiii ilic rii^lil ot' .r:iili', and iliiriii^ wiiitiT iiiaki- trips to 
 or live ill crrt.i'm |).irls ol' the cDiintrv iicir I/ikc ''> iiiiiic;; :iii I in' S i>kati'lii'"iiii, and iliori' trade 
 witli till' Indians, iisiiij; a fjrt'at dral of liad .-|iirii- olitniiicd Iroiii ihi' I'niti'd Slato. Tiu'sf 
 people laki' tlii'ir liir- lo Krd lilvcr Setilcim'iit ; inn ouiiin in tin' lliuisoii's Hay ('nnipaiiv allowiiiir 
 a« iniu'li :is the .\iiuri>aii and oilier iiici't'liaiit-. ami wiiiiin ,i little ul'ilie prices at Saint I'aiil, distant 
 ■)ViT ."iOlt miles. llie u'l'i'aler pari Tail into tlicir liaiids. alllioiii;li. ot course, there i» not so niueli prolit 
 on tlieiii as irolilained direet Iniiii the Indian^. 
 
 I his eoiiipeliruiii. alllioiiuli it olit.iiii~ IiI^^Im : |i. iei'~ lor llie Indians, d<ii'> iiol In iielit tlii'in, lor it 
 introiliiee!! ■-pirit-, the leniplalion ol which they caiiiiol « iih~laiiii. Iliil were Hie Indian liipior 
 trallie |ii'oliiliited. a^ it oiiiihl to he. tluii eoinp. lltioii would l>e a prcseiil lieiielil to ilie liiiliaiis liv 
 allowing' them higher prices, and a liiliire lieiu lit liy de^irovint; ixe liir trade ol ilie southern jHirtioii 
 of the loiiiitrv : as iiiilil this U accniiiplishi d little pidi;ri -.s «ill lie iii.ide in airriciiltiire h\ them, or 
 by the lariie niajorily of the li;ill hieed.-. 
 
 J'riirisldiis. — riie >iipply of pldvi^i'ilis reipiired for ll.e i^'ieater pari of llie voyauiiiff l)y >iiiiimer 
 and » inter travelliiii!; in coniuA.on witi tin fio' trade i- mo:<ily <lra\\u from the luiifdo: peinmiiaii or 
 dried meat heinu the usual 'onJ on -iieli occasion?- lor all tin' .-otilliern part ol tiie eouiilrv. |->iit 
 in the district of Mackeii/i( "s Hivei lli' iiiiinerini- deiraoil oiler aiiimaU liiiiiisli their eontrihiitioiis 
 towards the support of in. in. -n tli.il it i> > rr(p|ieiin> lo siip|)o.-e thai the trade could not lie earned 
 on ill the iiorlli without iiiilliilo. 
 
 Ill the hiijliilo eoiillliy lisli is liille ii>e i. hilt in llu wnodv di-trici- it eolistitiilc -. liinetlier 
 with jMitaloe^. iiiiiwii at -oiiie po^ls. tin' >t iple article .flood. Iloiir. which i> supplied from Kiiffjand 
 and Ued Klver Setllc neiil. i< iiol niiiih used in llie iip|ier p.ir!-. of the comiirv. on aecoi.ni ul its 
 cost of trilii>poit. .\t iiiany leiis tin ii.iii.;ti.- Miih(. l.\< lar lieitei tli,,ii tlic\ iiou dn. did they 
 cultivate tlii' soil to a uic.iter c.xtcii' Iml iliey aii' ii-iiall\ ol >o indolent a nature that rather than 
 employ s|iare tiiiii' in that "ay tiie\ lto uitlioiit tlm-e tliiii:.s which are looked npoii as necessaries in 
 a civili/ed coiitiiiy. 'rini-, with the e\cc|ition of lud li.ver. wiiire many live bv it, airrieiiltnre 
 is almo.sl unknown. In the more norllieiii and eastern parts of the coiintiv of coiiim' it i.s 
 iuipossihle. 
 
 In de-criliiiiy ij,,. (m- Hade. I think I iii.iy .^.ly llial I li,i\e included all the resources of liie 
 country that have a- y,t lieen developed, with the i xieplioii of w ii.it li.is heeii done at Ued Uiver 
 ill the way ol' liu-minu' ; >o tli il I will cndca'.inir to ^ive >ome ide.i of the -tale ol that -ettlenieiil as it 
 now is. oinittinii the iiiiiiicroiis -tiiii^irlo ol ihe culy >etia r- III contendiiiu' with tlu' many luiiural 
 and othi'i- obstacles. 
 
 C— III. 
 
 IJr.ii Kivin Si 11 I.I .Ml \r. 
 
 Orii/iii. — Those interested iii the ri-e ,iiid pr>.er.» of tlii> distant colony have Iml to peruse a most 
 COIllplele hi-lory of it by llie , t. .Vhx.ii.der Ko-s, entitled •• lied li'iver Settlement." I diall 
 liere simply >late tiiat t'e idea orieinateil with the Karl ol Selkirk, who. obt.tiniiii; a tract of lerrilory 
 IVoiii the Hudson's D.iy C'iim|i my i l,s||. ,eiii out ihe ori-,nal Scotch >ettler.s. and eiiteied iiii'o 
 treaty with tlii' Indian- of iled Uiver. 
 
 Aiiioiiij: the (liiiieiiiiies uiili wliicli the .M'liler- have had to Contend, I may imntion the viMl.stion 
 of .irrasshopp. r- in r, riain _\e.ii-. iinin.iai ion- caiiM'il by the ri>e o|' the' river, the dilHciilty of 
 priicuriiiLj sinik and mipleiiieiii v .nid ilie w ml of a iiiirkei. iUit nolwlihst.iiidiiij; these and other 
 dis.idv.nilaL'es, iiieliidinu dim. it., under which ihi' nii.aiiilanls iiave laboured, there at present esisis at 
 Ked liiver a thii\iin:r>rilisli community of whites ^md b.ll-bi ecus. iinmiieriii<i about t; ."i(li( >i)iils, 
 separaled tioiu the mo-t ,,dv,iiicei| point ol ciMli/ati.in li\ 100 miles of wilderness. 
 
 Pnsfiit Sliiti — Ked liiver Settlemeiil is neitiier a cit\. lown. or (Veil a xilliiLie. but. as llie n.inie 
 indicates, a .sett Uineiit euiisisiin, ol a slraiinbm;' eiiam o'f small farm est.il lishi'oenls, e.\teiidiiiH' for 
 a (list nice of forty miles aloii.: the banks, but mostly on the west b.iiik of tiie Ibd h'iver of the north, 
 the dwelliiii;s iiiinu- (Voin fitly yard- to a mile ap irt. while at iiilervals aloiii.' this line ale a lew" 
 churches and windmills, besides two .•siidill-hmeiils of ihe llud.-oifs l!av Companv. buill in the 'orm 
 of forts, one at llie jmu lion ol tlie .\ssii,iboine wiili lb.' main river, and the oilier t"weiitv miles b, low. 
 On the north bank of the Vssuni,,,;,,,. ;,1,,, „ i,,,!, lias a yeiieral e.isi .■ourse, the settiemeiil e.Memls 
 about •_>.•) miles up. mid .iboiit .■)() miks liiriher is aiioih.r sin.dl c.)4i'ciioii of homesieads. usiial'y 
 called " ihe Portage." 
 
 ropnhltion.— Vwnn the lalesi eelisi,, ( iM.v; It appears that there were llieii l.d.-U' fimilles, of which 
 8I(! were natives of ih,- country, the remaimier beloimin,; to the L'liited Kiiiudom and Caiiadu 
 Ihe Ireiu'h Canadians ami lueir od-priiiy;. usually called '• I'r, neli lialf-bie.'ds," 'who iiiimber about 
 one-halt ol the whole popidaiion, are cmilimd iii..>ily m the .\s,iniboiiie aii<l \\m[ Uiver above - the 
 l-orks;' the Kuiepealis and their (hsceiidaiits. pure and mix.'d, beim; lorate.l b.'tweeii tli.' iwo Idrt'^ 
 and a couple ot imleu below il,e lower one : wiule the .so-calle.| Chrisiian Indian.s, numlurin- aboiii 
 40(1 or .i(H» souls, are conlined to the lower part of the river, ii-millv desij-milcd the 'imlian 
 Oettleineni 
 
 7^ //'//■../, ,/W 0,r,,//«^-,,«.v. -.The setileinei.t i- divided into parishes, ami there are nine churches 
 and seventeen H'hools ; thefremh part of the popidation beinjr jreiuTally Uoman ( iitlmlies. whih' 
 i\v.' iMiolisliand Iii.liansareKpiscopaliansand I'reshyterian. Not one-half of the population are 
 larmeis lor there are but 400 barns for the !>(i() Imuses, m'commoilaiin^r ..liove l.tHKi liunilies ibe 
 rc.iia.nder beiiif,' Imnters, who Mmy be said to live entirely on ,..., ;„illalo and the fur trade These 
 are or the mo.^t part, French famidian half-breed.s, who,-e occupations are well exemplilied in the 
 .iinall nun.ber ol larnis existin- in the parish.s which they inhabit, li.r wlnle the population i« co.ml. 
 ^here are but ninety barns compared to the '.'UO in the reniuiuing punslieu. 
 
 Ldiiil mill 
 con.siderable 
 and other cri 
 small, but tl 
 ))urposes to I 
 tli4' sevi'i'e at 
 down the riv 
 panv. in lots 
 
 ( iiiri riinii II 
 by the I liid- 
 liohlini; tlieii 
 local courts 1 
 little road in 
 imports, (ilie 
 
 I'riiilr inn 
 Red Uiver. < 
 (lepariment. 
 there is one 
 at anv rati' < 
 
 Wiiiskey i 
 home use. 
 on Maiiitobi 
 biiHalo hiiiit 
 their iiiipl'ov 
 
 .li/riiiil/iin 
 stock is only 
 H,Mt(i iieivs! 
 from Saint I 
 
 l''armiiii; i 
 manulac; re 
 operations f 
 ]iiim|>kiiis. a 
 immense sw; 
 the farmers i 
 
 (Irnirtli of 
 bill owiii^- t( 
 from new- lai 
 
 in sill I'CsSIOI 
 
 sometimes d 
 si/e. Mel 
 
 S'/ii,/t Fill 
 lo w liieli -c 
 loads per i 
 \a cut oil' ilj 
 for other fill 
 
 ol llle lllllltl 
 of the liali\l 
 
 Sheep llij 
 inolieN . 
 alter. 
 
 The call( 
 ph'iitv of 
 and otiiei l| 
 made for tl 
 are milked 
 
 1 1 is ll-lll 
 
 on ihe Sa- 
 stock fariiii 
 sitnaiion-, 
 swamps inj 
 kepi ura/iil 
 my opin.oil 
 
 ihe llallVe^J 
 al lied llil 
 stiiek cd' 111 
 
 Til.' III! 
 puny of 19 
 
 t'lii'iiiiiik 
 progress <1 
 Usually cil 
 be coniiml 
 
 (ifiiirl/M 
 .md ;;anl 
 
KXPLOllATION OF RRITISi! NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 ^ 
 
 licil Uivcr, rvi ly iiiitii hciiii; Ills own curiiciitt'r, siinili, iii.isiiii. iV( ., iiiiil llic woincii takinif llic ('lipthiiii; 
 (lc|iariiiu'iil. 'riicic ;ni> a ihiiiiIh r of uiiid (lour ini'ls hut ;rl tln' iiiilliis Iimvc otlicr c,c<u|i:iliiiii - : l)ut 
 till' If i> one ^tc.■aIll mill iiii|Hiiic(l innii the I iiitrij Stiitrs. u liiiii i- kcjit [n'ctty coiiiiiiiiMliv in oiii'riiiioii, 
 at any rate liming; winter. 
 
 \\liiskfy i.i niaiiiilai tiiri'tl ; Icalliir i^ idii^'lily taiiiud, I. lit, as wltli tiic making' ol' liccr, ^iin|ilv tor 
 lioiiic use. Sniiar is niailr tVoin tlir iiiaiilf, ami suit, as lias liicn licloif nit'iitioiuil. i> niaiiliracturi'il 
 on Manitoba Lake, lint nut at jirrsc nt in >ntli<'i('iil ([iianliiy tor tin- sii|i|)ly ot' the cotintrv. I'lu' 
 
 hntl'alo liniili'r> and voyai;rr> aic ali-cni Iminili' Si iiliimiit st ol the siniiiiirr, and owinir to 
 
 their im|iid\ ideiice, are olli n ic'iiicid to j; real trail- linm tlii' want ot provi-ion^ (hiring; winter. 
 
 .Ii/rifiil/iin: — iarminu' ciiiiiol h ■ -aid to lie ear, ied on to a ^I'lat extent. "In ii the wlio'e iiiimUer ol" 
 slock is only, cattle '.•.i.tMI. -!iee[i •_'.2(li', .iiid \i\\i^ .■'>,(>IM). and llie ainonnt ol' land iinder cultivation is 
 HjMIC ucre>. 1 hi' auricnltur.d iiiiphuienl.s not con-lriieted it the .settlement aii' iio-il\ oluained 
 iVoin Saint I'.iiil on the Mississi|)|)i, au'l a (cw leaiiiiiL' lu.iehiius lia\e lieeii .dready iniroilnced. 
 
 l'"anniii!i ojieralions eoin]ireliend tlieeiowih ot whe.it. harli'y, oats, ln<liaii coin, and |polatoes, the 
 mannlac; ro ot'elieese and huller, cu I the kee|iiiiir of cows, horses. |iif{-, anil sliei p. hcsides jrnrdeniin^ 
 ojieraiion- I'nr the culture ol luriiiii-. onions, peas, caliliage. rhnliarh. ladi-hes. iiiaii'.:k' carrois, liii|is, 
 piinipkin-. and iiiclon . which all appear lo lliiive in (udin vy seasons. I'lie periodic.il vi-its of 
 immense swarnis of L;ras hoiiper-, win, cat dnwii i vi ly ':i( ni ihiiej, i- .1 -oiii ci' ol' i;ri'at .iiildvance. to 
 the farmers of lied l!i\er, as wli ■- in souie puis ol' tin' Lite ol .Miniiesnta. 
 
 (jruirtli (if' Crii/i.i. I'irst, in re-pect to the mnwlli of wheal, llie.soil -eeiiis |iarticularlv \\el! adapted, 
 1)111 owiiiif to the clunale it is oci asioiially cauiiht liy the e.irly Irosls. I.ar^e returns are ohlained 
 froin new land, someliliies up to Kl hiisliels per acre. . ii' tl e -o;i will luar cioppiny I'm' many vear.s 
 in sncccssioii. IJariey anil oats do widl. and are nevci' daniaii'id hy the I'rost ; Imt Indian mrn is 
 soinetimes destroyi'd. I he ui'i'i'" crops tlmirish ; potatoes. turni|is. a .d onions attainiicj; verv larj^o 
 si/.c. Melons are said to come to maturity in the opi 11 air. 
 
 S'/iii /i Fiirniiiii/. In n uard lo stock f.ir niiiir, the L;i<ite-t diawh.uk i- the leu'.!lli of winter, owiiii; 
 ....!.:.. I. .'.1.1,...; ' '...^.i r.,.. .1... .,!..' ,_ , i. ..Ill ;,...!_. ii 1 ii 1...; 1:..., 
 
 IS 
 
 for 
 
 ol 
 
 of 
 
 Sfdt/i Fiiniiiiii/. In n uard lo stock f.ir niiiir, the L;i<ite-t diawh.uk i- the leu'.!lli of winter, owiiii; 
 
 which -o much h,iy is reipiirpd for tin' siils|,i,.|ice ot thi' aiiiiii d-: the 11 ual .dl'iw.iiice heinu' live 
 ads per ox and h' per horse for the winter months, hut the loriiur feeils also 011 -iiaw. '1 hi' liav 
 
 cut oil' the swamps, where it is met wiiii oi lolei.ihle ipialily. !ii uieat ahnndaiic ■ ; hut I'or this as 
 r other fiiiniiiii oper.iiion- there is alv.avs a iiieal scan ily ol lahnnn is. on account ol' the ahsi me 
 
 the hunters and vo\a;_r,.|,s fmni the -ettlemeni dniiiir suiiinier. iw well ir- from the natural dislike 
 'the natives to any -leady employment. 
 
 Sheej) thrive well at Ived liiver, where iheie ,ire hiil few uolves, owiiil; to there heinu; " head 
 
 lllllli'd out where ihileare e,ik wnml- I'lipiile llo lookilltj 
 
 -t, .I'l^ , llllMlf, lllf III. 
 
 ,,,,|, ..,, at Ived liiver, where llii 
 
 nioiie\. I'iiis ilii 11111,11 kaiily w ' 
 atli'i 
 
 altir. 
 
 The cattle diiriiie- -uiiiliu'r roam al l.iriie at the h ,ek of the enliivatid land, where tliev liiid 
 pl'-nty of exeelleiit pasinra;re, l.nt owiii,, lo the .iiinoyani e caused li\ tin •' hull doe;s," mosipiitois, 
 and other Hie-, tliev ;ri'iier,i ly diiriie.; sumiiii r mil, et 111 the smoke of siiniiilderiii.; /lies which are 
 made tor their proii ciioii, hut in the tall wander oil and aie oltec, not seen li-r w,eks. 'Ihe cows 
 are milked refill, irly iwiei .1 d.iy. 
 
 It is iisu.il at Wed Kiver to keep the cattle I -ed and I'l'd duriiii: "inter, hut ,is cattle sometimes 
 
 on the ,>askatehaw.iii remain out all the winiii in the same way as lior-i s, I think, in the event of 
 stock f.iriiiiii'4 lieiiifj; can le 1 , n to any eMeiit. herds of cattle mii,dit he winieied out in sheltered 
 silniitions, with lie assistance ol .1 litlh' h.iy. winch woiili! he cu! in the pii'vioiis smiinier oil' the 
 swamps in the Iracl of country where it was propoM d to winter the cattle; and the animals wmild he 
 kept era/iiijr in other pirls uuld the severe p.iil ot' the winter: and wliil-i -jicikillL; of stock tiirminfj;, 
 mv opiinon is, that the country to wliii h I am now ciiilinu' alleinioii is not ill adapted tiir it, 'Nliile 
 the natives would he more iiidiiied to t.ik, to 1 pastoral thin .111 aeiicullnral lite. .\s it is as presi'iit 
 at Keel liiver, manv cattle ,iiid horses are lost every winter troii. die people not layiiii; in a snllicieiit 
 stock of III, v. 
 
 The lliid-oii's I'liiv ('oinp,inv mw l.iiui lo a eoiisideialde eMeiit. 1 ,-iiice tho arrival ol a C'um- 
 [lany of llitles in Ih.'iT liavi' imported a nipiihcr ol o\eii Iroin MiniiJ-oi.i. 
 
 h'liiiiiiiii/ O/icnitiiiiis. — 'I "•" coininenecineiil ol t'arminu opviations de|)ends allofxether on the 
 iirojrress of the season, hii' . is seldom that wheat sowiimj is comineiiced hel'ore .Way, anil it is 
 Usiiidly I'lit hefore the eiiil ol .'lUiiUst. i'he cllltin^r of hay on imlilic l.iiiil is not allowed hy law Ut 
 he eoinmeneed luM.ue the ■Jdlli ,luly, -" lli,ii every one mas ha\, m eipiai chance. 
 
 (irmctli iif' I'li/iltililis III ii//iri I'lirls. ."so miieh lor auricnliuie at lle'i liiver, hut as a little farmiiij^ 
 ciiiU u'urdeiiiiiii is done at some ol liie I'orts and mission siutions, 1 insert the lolluwiiig inlurniuliun, 
 
 *' *^ H '^ 
 
 Py 
 
56 
 
 PAPERS RELATIVE TO THE 
 
 ( 
 
 f 
 
 ii. ■■^ 
 
 which may l)c of use ill coinpiinn},' one i)art of tlie country with another; I will promiso tliat tlio 
 
 notatoe <liseasc is iiiikiiciwn. , , , • i 
 
 Uaiiiv and xviioat tlu ivo on aiiv part of tlu- Sasl^atcliewan. hut tho latter sonu-tiines «Iocn not npcn 
 
 if jrmw.i in li)W siinations. All'tla" ordinary vom"tal)i.'s of a tpniporato cUniale comu to pcrloclion 
 
 on^thf Sa-kaiilu'waii. potatoes and turnips irrowinu; to a very iariro size. 
 
 \t tiie noitii I'nd of I.aivo W Inip.M,', l.ui.v. potatoes, onions, carrots, turnips, peas, and punipisuis 
 
 nourish in the op.'ii air. and laelon- .'an be fr.iced. At York Kaetory wiiite turnips i.mw, li,it not 
 
 (if lame si/e. . , , , i ■ i 
 
 At ChnrehiU on Ihidson's Hay potatoes have been tried, hut they j^rew no la rj,'or tiian musket 
 
 bails. , , .,.,,. ,.11 
 
 On Holy T-akc, latitinle r^s' \., Ioul'. !»."»", potatoes do not always attain hill size. iMneli, iiow- 
 cver, depeiuls on the -itnation. for at Sorway House llio>e planlrd near the woods have heen frost- 
 bitten, wlTde oilicrs in open uroniid "ere not. 
 
 I'arlev is -ikium as far north as I'ort Slinp-on on Maeken/ie liiver, latitude r.-J°. hut this is owinj^ 
 to its wrsterFv siuialiou nlvin:; it such a liij.di siiinnur tmiiieratuie. (.Ser Cliiuate, Section A.) 
 
 It is Sir .lohu Kiriiaidson's opinion iiiat tiie eiiiiivalioii of irraiii emild be earned onl Miliieicntly 
 to support sitllriuent as far north as I'uaee liiver. 
 
 7;.(y((.;7.v.— Willi the exeepiioii of furs, the exports from lied liiver amount to very little. 
 
 A .Miiall aiiionut of lie.f. pork. Hour, butter, and cheese being .-upplied to the Hudson's lliy 
 CiiMipanv. eaitle and hoi.scs li.ive been exported to the Unite<l States, but latterly the former have 
 been imported. ,. , 
 
 /)«/«)/•/.<.— He-ides the Iaii;-e (|iiinlity ol' nurchandi-e aiiiuialiy imported Iroin Kniiland by way of 
 IlluUonV r.av. a eoii-ideraiih' tratlic has diiriuu; the last few years >pninj,' nj) with Saint I'aiil on the 
 Jlississippi. aiul be-ides drv unoils. hardware, airrieulliirai iiiipleineiits. groceries, amimniillon, \-c,, 
 a large (piaiitity of whi>key is aumi.illy brought into the settlement, both for the Inrlians' trade and 
 hoimMousuiiipiiou: and Ihave not yet heard that any siepi have been to retpiire all engagi'd in 
 Beliiiii: siiiriluous licpe "s to lie pr.ividiMl with a licelice. Ilor-es and cattle iiu- the iinproveiiieiil of 
 the breed have been iinpcu-tid from laiuiaiid as well a- from the I'liitid Slat<'>. wiieiiee tiie first 
 etoik was procured by the early -ettiers. 
 
 Mild Srn-ici. — A bi-iiionthly po>ial service U kept up tiie whole year by the I'nit.d Slates between 
 the Mi=sis>ippi and a siii.dl .-ettleineiit of fijr Ir.iders and ball-breeds near the I'.Hh parallel, with 
 which a connexion is kept up from the Ueil Itiver .Settlement, so that letters can be receiv. 1 from 
 laii,'l,iiid within the iiioiilh. but the usual ti'riii is six weeks. .Vnother mail route was opened 
 during the >uiM:iier of I. -.").■<, between Cinada.ind Ued liiver Settlement, and was ke])t up dnriiip 
 most of the following winter, and is 1 believe, again in operation; but owing to the very great 
 distance through ini-eltlid co'intry. tlie (1( lay to letters going iiy this route i> >() great that lew are 
 sent by it. 
 
 There is no reLinliir internal mail, but the llmUon's May Comp.my forward letters and small 
 parcels by their brigades of boats and winter expres- to their diU'ereiil ports and the mission stations 
 free of ehaige. 
 
 Atiiirirnii Sitlkvinits iintr tin- Jtniiiiiliin/.— It i- siip|)o-ed by many that lluri' is a considerable 
 Aliurii-an >eltleiiieiit and ludilary po-I near the internalnMi.il boundary on Hed liiver; thi-. however, 
 is not the case. 1 here luiin; milv about .i do/eii loghou-i'i where lied liiver crosses the boundary. 
 
 occiipiel bv traders and half-breed-, whih liie settleinent of ."^aint .loseph, commonly callet 
 " I'embin 1 .Mountain."' .iboiii liiirty mile- to tbi' <ve-t, con' 'Mis about one thou?aiid hall-breeds am 
 Indian^, the chief oe iip.ition.- of wlimn is the eiia-e. 
 
 C.-IV. 
 
 Mkans 111 Tit.xNsi'uin'. 
 
 IVnlif 'I'rtiii.-'/iiirf - The erall in g( iieral use thidiighont the eimntry are canoes anil boats, the 
 latlei as de-cnli. (1 .\ppendix li. «hiletlie former aie made nf liirch bark from I iJ 'o '.'.S feet in 
 length, ilie largest carrying "J.^ioo lb-, ol cargo, wurl 'd by ei^lit men, and ca|ialile of being e.ariied 
 wiieii empty by two. Canoes of larger size aie, ImWeM'r, il-ed on J.,ake Snpeiior, but are not 
 a^lapteil I'm' the mole int'ie.in' n.ivigatinii of the inter' ". 
 
 With llie exeeplion of the route betwe n Lake .Sii|,. ior and li.iiny Lake, the .'id feel keel boats 
 are in ifeiieral n-ed la' ih' tiau-poii of mei chandisr. and haw many advantages over c.inoe.s, wliiTo 
 tile portages are nut over loie^ or the naviifatiim very intricate. Canoe- made out of solid timber, 
 n-iially called " diiL' outs." are in tl-e at Ibd Kiver, being very bandy as crossing bouts, for they 
 rei|nire no care. Canoes I'ormed of the hides of biiHido ale al-o used oil the Saskatcbew.in for 
 de.-ci liding the >treain loaded lilh provi-ions or robe-, and being ea-ily coiislrucled of tin' materials 
 always at hand, are often u-ed in cros-ing rivers when iraveHi.i._. A canoe of tlii- sort, ma le limn 
 huiralo skins iiiid managed by two men, will contain alxml '.MHO lbs. or mie-fourlh of the cargo 
 jiiil in a boat whin goii.gdown tlie -ireaiii. I'lal -bottoiiie(l •■ -kows," made of rough plank anil 
 caulked with Indian leather and gn a-e, are also used for de-cending rivers with Large ciiioes. 
 
 'I'lie co-t of boat trail-port, including portages, is en an average one liallpeniiy per 100 lbs. per mile, 
 or one -hilliii'j; per diem, 
 
 Liniil 'Jniiisi- ii—Ciirt.i.— 'llu' land transport thronghoiit the whole of the lied liiver and Saskat- 
 chewan couniiy ii [lerfortned during t!ie >iimmer season by light carls of liinm^ inaiiufautiire, drawn 
 by single horses or oxi n, the load drawn by the liirmer being u-ually (iOO Ihs. for a long trip, ami 
 the latter, which ir- iiariie-sed by means of a collar (.-oniething liki' a hor.-e collar put on up -.le <lown), 
 hauls about 900 lbs The rate of tra\e!lin;j with loaded carts, including stoppages, is from 20 to "26 
 
 T/ir I„ 
 
 eoniiirv. 
 North ".X 
 goverinni 
 well as w 
 civilizali( 
 
 I'irxriil 
 of the 11 
 the part 
 Comjiaii 
 '' lillperl 
 
 1 hav. 
 lirilish 
 moreove 
 till' right 
 them, ar 
 yet ha\ ; 
 These 
 nation 
 altlioiiul 
 the l.ius 
 
 I'm 
 tlioll';hl 
 presenl 
 Ihll it II 
 Itefoiv 
 has lo b 
 
 ( 'iiiiiii 
 between 
 and lb 
 States il 
 will, if - 
 
 whole I 
 
 ,ijradnall 
 
 pi. lied e 
 
 I W<| 
 
 prolecli 
 
EXPLORATION or IJIIITISII NOIITII AMKUICA. 
 
 T)? 
 
 i; 
 
 miles a day, and wlicii loUowiiif? a beaten trail tlicrc Ih usually l)ut one man t" evi'iy tlino cMits. 
 The animals are uiiliout shoes, an<l live entirely on the paslin-e lound hy the way. The lied iliver 
 (Nirt.-s, in tiie mainifaetnre of which no iron is used, are certainly well-adapted for the mode of 
 travelliiif; in Use, hein^i easily " man-handli'd " al creeks, bo^s, or other dirticnlt phucs, and beiiiff 
 constructed entirely of wood and with little extra boaidini,' about fiiem, they float well and oiler little 
 resistance to the current in crossiiij; rivers; besides which, ihi' wheels are nseliil Tor the formation of 
 '' skow.s '' in which to ferry over the bajr^afje; but al the same time carts are in ri(ii;,di travellimj very 
 severe on the animals, as every jolt of the wheels is eomiuunieated to them, and there is in addition 
 always a wei<;bt on the backs, frecjuently the soiM'ce of sore backs. 'I'he cost, of this travelling is, 
 perhaps, a little more than by water. 
 
 tl'(ii/f/iiiis. — The Ked Kiver people have a threat objertion to waijiions, owiuij;, I fancy, to a dislike of 
 the American wajiiions in use in Minnesota, which are of that narrow wheeled and neatly finished kind 
 in very ^{'neral use in the North-wcrtern Slates, which is ill-adnpted to traveilinn' in a rou^ili eonntry, 
 where swamps ari' numerous and iron and sn.itlis unknown; but, perhaps, more particularly because 
 they have always used carts. 
 
 It beiiiir sjenerally admitted that two oxen haulinj^ by the yoke will do twice as nnicli work than if 
 workinu: separately, 1 would recommend the eon.-trnction at iJed Itiver of wairfioiis maile on the same 
 principle as the carts, haviui; perba[is but one or two pins of iron in their eoiisiructiiui, the wheels of 
 which shoidil be hi,t;b and rather broad in the fellies, which would enable them to >urmouut obstacles 
 and pass over sol'l |)laceswith tolerable ease. 'I he nidy drawback th.it I can see to the u«e of «ai;!j()ns, 
 causing a considerabK- diMiinution in the e.\peiiditure oi horse and o.\ flesh, is, that more men would 
 be recpiired to extricate a wagLton than a cart in ditliculty ; but then it must bi' borne in mind that in 
 a train of waiT'^ons the drivers woidd not be so far separated as at pnsent, and the help applied to one 
 waggon Would be ecpiivaleut to that applied to four earls. 
 
 '/'nirciils. — 'I'he use of '• ir.ivails, ' b )tli lior>e and dog, is gener.il among the I'rairie Indians, and 
 consists in the animal having to drag a load, supported on two poles, the larger nul^ 1 uhieh trail on 
 the ground behind, while the othi'rs cross over the back, and are made fi-^l to a n.iinh [lad and breast 
 ■strap. 
 
 SIrds.- — -In winter .sleds are used ; thosi' for beaten tracks wi;li horses or oxrii being liainrd with 
 runners, while those lor liog travelling and single horses aw ly from civilizition are what are termed 
 " flat bij.l-. " 'i'he loads are about the .same as lor carts. 
 
 1).-I. 
 
 I'l ri lit; GdVf.iiNMF.Nr .\M) ('oi.oni/.aiiov. 
 
 77/'' liihr'titr. — Having in the fon'i;oing pages attempted a general dc'^criptinn of the nature of the 
 eonnlry, inhabitants, nataral pioductions, eliniate. anil -tale of eiviliza.'on of the interior nf Ibitish 
 N(Mth Auu'riea. I siiail now proceed to oiler a few siiggesti^ais having reference to the future 
 government of that territory, founded on some knowledge of' the widies of the pre-ent inh.ibitant-, as 
 well as with a view to the strinLrliiening of Ibifisli power and the advauctnieni of ( 'hristianilv and 
 civilization. 
 
 J'irariif S''i/i. i'he whole inl' lior, which has been bi'fore defined, i^ virtually tmder the guvernirent 
 of the llonour.dile lluil-'>n's ISay Coiupauy. Ibit since the expiration of the i.cence in M.iv I's.'j!), 
 the jiart now in their hands and t'nr anything yet pioMil to the enulrary, the propertv of this 
 Company by Koyal I'harteri is that iiortion of which tlu' waters run into Hudson s Jiay, known as 
 " Jiupi^rl s Land." 
 
 I have previously shown tliat tlieri' exist.s in the heart of this tirritory a conununiiy who, mo-tlv 
 Ibilish and their descenii-.nls, claim to be called by the name of tlx" n.other count ly : and that, 
 moreover, scattered tlnoiigh the length and hreadth ot this ( xteusive track is a race of liunian beings, 
 the rightlul owner- of the soil, who, ihouiih < hanged in many respi'cls since whili> men went anumg 
 them, all' stdl mil .^ iil/eil ; the-e, allhoULlli they cannot claim to be ealh d by the name of faiglislnnen, 
 V<'t having lieen so long as.-nciated with us may reasoiiaiily expect our s\mpathv if iiol siijport 
 'I'hese inhaliitaiit.s of a portion of the Ibitish dominions are eiiiitled t'l he pl.ucd bv tlu I'niiisli 
 nation on an ei|iiality with their neiulu.,.urs inhabiting the lerrittMVol the I'niti (i .^•late- ; and 
 .ilthoiigh pi rliaps llie liesliny of" the aboriginal race '• m,iy be seen in the .sitting sun, ' yet it is against 
 the la"s of hunianity to oiler any ob-M.ii'le tu the prii',Mesi of civili/atiim. 
 
 I iiinii ii/' llrilif/i Xcrf/i .Inn riciiii J'ii>i'iiifis.— \lm\\ has been talked about, but perhaps le-s really 
 thoui.tht of the union of the Ibitish North .\meiiean l'rovinct;s, a scheme which, altlidugh in the 
 present age, might be thought sninewhat spi'ciilative, may yet not oidy be pro'n'ctid but accomplished. 
 itnl it nnisl lie a work of time, and such time as ii<any may become impatietit. even in couti'ni|:latiug. 
 ilefoie a union can take place a comiexion must be made, and in making this coiiiKxinn eiah link 
 has lo be boiiitd to its ailjoining one, and liew links supplied wheri' ictpiired. 
 
 ('(iiiiii.riiiii iri/li /lir L'lii/iil Srn/n. I liave before pointtii out that tiie means oj" comiiiunic.ilioii 
 between the eonnlry nildei- eoieider.ition and the civilized world are of very indilfereiit deseiiptions, 
 and thai in the |ii'esenl stJite of those coiumuniciitions it is more nearly connected with tin- I'niled 
 States than either I'aigland or lier provinces. This connexion, which is year by year incr<asing, 
 will, il' some steps are not taken Itir the opi'iiing of a practicable I'laite with Canada, monopoli/c the 
 whole Iratlie el the interior, and llius drawing those strong ties of commerce and mutual inlmesls 
 ^jradnallv tighter, may yet co-l Kngland a province, and oiler .an impassable harrier to tlie eoutem- 
 jilaled ciiiinexion of her Alia;. lie and I'acilic ' oionies. 
 
 I wdidd iiol at preseiil nndeilake to .say, that if the oiler weri' maili' by a neiglibiini i;ig pov, er of 
 protection, the inhabitants of iled Kiver Settlement would cease to own allegiaiue lo I'nul.uid ; Ijiit 
 
 II :i ' 
 
 ' i 
 
r)8 
 
 I' I'KRS RELATIVK TO TIIK 
 
 1 do ln'licvo tlial in a ff"- yi'ai>' '»""'• >\wM llic i.r.'-ciii I'orni of .-rovcrmiifiii (vniiimc, wliicli, 
 allioii'li liv no ni.an< <)i.|iivs>iv.', \rt it muim '••• o»ii..i i- iiol cxacllv (l.volcd lo llif intcirsls of 
 nvili/.ilion."Mirli a (U'MiomsUv.Iiou u.iul.l !.>■ 1)V no inr;:n- iin|.iol).il.lc ; and as to llu- po-Mlnlily. tlicre 
 is at inc^iiit no power to pi'i'Viiil il. 
 
 ! ir,t Sf,/: miiiirnl. Tlif lir-l ilical Me]! r.(|uir.d loHard> o|i, iniii; np llic inl.rior ami (■.ninoclinj; 
 it uiih ilu' tM>irrn pi-oxin.c^ i^ tliV lorniaHon of a mode of .■onininnic.iioi! !..-!rtcfn l.ak- Sii|„nor 
 and li.d llmr .NitLnicnt, wiiioii. in -iwnj;- fa. ililu's to a Iiadcwitli Canada in I'.ntisli niaiinfailnrcs 
 'w,.idd cicair a [liaciMif ini|.oitin.v on l-aki' Siip.rioi-. and til- foinialion of small Mlilmi.ols alonj; 
 til, rouir. li,-idi- -nidiii-- llic <ct of w.-tciii (ini-iMiioM thnniuli rn-iiisli <i>A. I lie •vali'i- roni.s I'on- 
 ii.MiiiiT Laki'rt Supi'iiov and Winip..: liavo Ix.n . vainin.d ami fidlv r. p.M 1. d npon hy conipricnt 
 1). r-on'^. wlio liavc uivcn il a.s lluir opinion thai no contimions watrr connnnnii alion can lie 
 I'sial'lisiu'd. l)nt havc^proposcd a -flifino of a partly «aicf ami pai tlv land ronic from l-'.ni W dliain 
 on linimloi liav to Id'd llivor Sctlliincnt. wliicli to my mind, takiin: into rooMdiration llic v.rv 
 lar^ic CNp.iiditniv nrpincd to carry out llii«. at lic-t. iiitcrrMptcd .•(.nnnmncalion. appears far from 
 I .' l; oia' suih d to Ihc riMpnrcnicnts of tlicoasc. I lie dctaiU of lliis ■.clicinc aiv to 1m' lonnd in tlif 
 1' rllnu. ntaiy I ap. I- uImIi I liiv.on -rvcral o. cations rctcrrcil to. dated .liinc !>:•!•. On il,i- a 
 ( ..mpai.\ «a- lorm.d in (.aiiiida, under ihe name ol ilie - \oi iliwesi I rail-portation ami Land 
 rompaliV.' tlie olije. t ol aliieli «as to op.ll tins liinle and irade willi ihe inlcrior ; hut the ^lock 
 fa liiiii lo lie lakeii np in Kncland, lilili' lia- lieeii heard of il ol late Su( li an nnderlakini,' i- one of 
 the fi~w wliii h are lallior the work of (iovernmelit than jirivale coinpanie-. who could not expect 
 rciiiiineratii>i) lor tin' outlay in any rca-o, ,,l)le liiiie. 
 
 yVoyii/xii/ /,.///./ /A'//A.-.\l pl-eseiil we know lillle or llolhinu' of ihe di^trid ofri.iiiilry lielweell 
 Lake Mljier III and liie Lake of lleU.',„|s, except jll't aloiii' the •canoe ionte;'liii| my o|iinioii 
 lonu -iiicc e\pre--e.l ( -ee AiipriidiN 1.) i-. that a land route is leipiired from a harl».iii- on the north 
 short of Lake Slip' il... , ' 11' the north end of the Laki of the Woods to lied l!i\ei s.,.| i l,.|iient And 
 tin- rea-i'ii I sav imrlli -:.'■ . . Iiee.m-e il an\ port .laild there lie louiid. siieji - Nipi-i.n Hay (il it 
 slionM pi-ove .ivail'll'l. ■;; .',oidd, ln-idi « !>elliu' a» iicir tiie north end nf ll,e Lake of tin Woo L ihe 
 soiilliern p.irl el'MJii ' ! ki' i- in Ameiiean tiarilory . a» I'oit William, he on the liiu' of an ultimate 
 himl roll' •• liu "rt nl -ellled part- m t'anada. Tins wonid neecs^iiate the formalioii of alioiil 
 i;.,. |i,i,, ' ,,.ii,., ,,| r.ad, throii^'ii prol>al)ly a ditlii-nll coiiiilry I'mi in usini; the word road. I do 
 
 n I wish * to !• iindr'-iood thai a reunlar si.i,r,' roa I i- rei|iiiicd to I oii-lrneted. for it wonlil in 
 
 the lir-I i > ;i)ee :i- liii!.- min thill eiitlin.; away the tree-, wide eiioin;ii Inr a Hark, ihe partial 
 loveliiiiLr ■ -'line lit' , ' •■ ?oii;;he-l place-, ihe formalion of imii-cw lys nver ini])a--alihj -wam|i-. and the 
 roiiLdi hri .cilU er :i,m'iiu -lope- iiilo the smaller creeks; whil,' the liiLier iimi- wiiiihl he leli lor 
 cros-iiii_' h\ nie :i s nf lin.ils or tlvniji bridges, winch would lie e-lalili-heil liy -i ttler-, who miyht In 
 etii onraueil to -etile aioii;:' the road by the re-lrictioi; of free i,'rant> ol' land to that poiiion of the 
 
 coiintiy. 
 
 'Llie\;eiieral dir.'clion of thi • road ciiiild iiiosi ea-ily he laid onl liy one accii-lomeil lo I ravelliii',' 
 dnriiii; wnilir. "lull ils entliiiLT out iiiii,dit he eonnuriiceil the following; spritii;. 'I'lie wintir trail 
 uoiild nitiirallv deviate from die -iimiinr road, fur the pnipnse el kcepiii;.' on the lakes ,iiid -wamp- 
 wheri' the travelliiie- i- li'Vel, !ail slill il woaldin iim-l part- fillowihe cut road: and if -i tilers, 
 a- has cell lieliiie ohsirved. \\eie indiicil lo iocile alon^' ihe Inie. they would, hy ciitlinj^ 
 hav oil the mimeiDii- -aaiiips dnriii- -inumei, he ah'e lo supply the want- of pas-iiiL,' travellers 
 dniitii.' w inler: llii- wnnld. I doiilit not, caii-e the r nite to he much ii-i d diiriie.; ih.ii -eason, when 
 the lioLT-. liM r-, ami I ike- are Iroz. n. .Vnother reason in fav<i'ir ol tin- route is thai it would he on 
 the line ol, and i-oii-cipuMil iy ai! i oii-.deiahly, in the con-triiilain of a railioa I, l)e-iilis lieinj; 
 Will rtinoved liom the nilernalioiial homidary. 
 
 'I'lii- till II i- die lii-l Lrreal -tep reipiired. and when we -ee with what rapid -tride- -eiiliMnenl, and 
 con-ripieiillv civili/atlon. is eXtelidniiJ lo the we-l and nortliwe-l liom the upper w.ilei- ol ihe 
 Mis-is-ippi, whiiiee a navinahle river llow- into liilti-h lerntory. 
 
 I c.inniil lull think that the ahcive propo-eil iindcMakiii^ i- of iialiooil Importance, and would, 
 tliLMefore, press it on the atlenlioii nl Her Nlaje-iy - (iioeinnieiil. 
 
 Iiiilimt /'■illii/. With re-pecl to the j^oVi rnmiiit of th' inti rior il i- hardly my place to olUr 
 8»i>x;iestion- : hut iii the event of any chanjre heiii;,:- leade in the present slate of ihiiiLis, ilu' iniere-t- of 
 all the panic- conierned hoiild he kept in reiiiem ir.oice : an I while in reijard lo the coloiii-t then is 
 pu'vioii- experience for a niiide. we h.i'.e no piece' nit a- lo die Imiiaii. I have lor that lea.-on 
 paid particular atli nlinti to the policy of the I'nilcd State- in •euai'! to the ahoi ij:i:ie-, and 
 after liavinu' well wciijlieil and coti-iilered Imtli -id - i ' the ip,c-tioii. I have hecn led lo the concln-ioii 
 that they -lionid he taken under the -peci.d eare of till' ( iovellilin II' ; and that while provision JH 
 Miiidi' liir ihein hy the leservalinii n| a ceilain proportion of toe pmceeds resuhin;; i|oiii the sale of 
 Crown or ralhii Indian land-, that ;dso in llie fraiaiiij of the law-, and -talnle- of a new enloiiv 
 paiticid ir allemion -honld he paiil to the ap|iroprialioii of Indian n-erve-, the prevention of whiles 
 " hnviliLT out" Indians, imd the piohiiiltioii ol ihe lii|nur irallii. 
 
 Out of the'" Indian limd " ahove propo-ed an Indian Coniini— ioiu r and stall' would he paid, who 
 in alteiidiiiir to the iiitere-ts of the Indians wnnld have the inanamnient of liu' >• Indian aeiieiiliiii-i| 
 Settlements" and school- meiiiioiud in a Iminer pari of ihls repori, the expeu-es of wlneli, as well as 
 t'Verytliiiiii fonnecli'd with the Indian.s, would he defraved oy tiie fund. I shoiiid not. however, 
 advocMte the system of licences for the Indian iraile, lor the halldn-i eds liriinr n.iiive-, eonld not he 
 compelled to have licences, and the expense would only nlinnalelv fall on ijie Indian, who wonlil not 
 •ret ins iroods .so cheaply a- il llieic wtac free Iraile. 
 
 sctileim 
 ill re^aK 
 tijipi ar- 
 the I.Mll 
 
 'lliis 
 marked 
 flow-, h 
 with thi 
 count rv. 
 
 I ha'M 
 and III 
 ol iLiinal 
 good -I 
 of ilichc 
 of this 
 termed 
 are iinim 
 for I he 
 called 
 the norti 
 
 or les-e 
 prairie li 
 ree; (HI a 
 that ho 
 thai altl 
 
 liiWfl 
 
 j^euer ill 
 the civi 
 and the 
 hand, i: 
 lliev Wo 
 
 niiM'iate 
 amonu; 
 liy the 
 in seltl 
 lialf-hre 
 aljuiidui^ 
 
KXl'l. ORATION OF MIIITISII NOiCm ...MKRICA. 
 
 ^'9 
 
 Mllitiiri/ I'li/icr. — It would, inorcoviT, he iircc-,.s jry loi llie iiiaiiiliiuiiK't ol' law and ordci-, tlic 
 r'liliiiro-iiiii III the lii|iioi' IndHc. and liic |ii'i'M'rv.ilii>ii ol jMai'i' widi and animi;^ llir liiuiaii Iiiln'^. to 
 i'>tabli^li a pi'oviiii'ial niilitarv |p()liiH', .soiiu'wlial nii tlic system cd' tin- lii-.|i cunsiahnlaiy ; siicn a hndy 
 vMiidd, nioictiviT, siTVf as tlii' iiiicK'iis (jii wliudi in build .--hnuld (•iii-iiiii->taiH is ii'ijiiili', and it might 
 be t'asHy I'uisi'd Iroiii aiiioiig llic |irt'sfnt |iii|)ulatii>.i. 
 
 liifi'niiitiiiiKi/ Iliiiiiiiliiri/. — It Willi 'd 1)1' a(Ivi-.al)lc tlial at an rally dale tlic hiiiiiKJarv -laiidd l)c inn 
 wi'slward rimu tin; Lake nl' tlit; \Vnnd», wlnic the ('ominis.-iuiuis nndci llic treaty nl I licclit 
 teiMiiiiaiid ilieir lalmnrs in \f*'J'i : and i'vnin tlie iialnic (if the cnuiitry, llii.i niiiilit lei.dily lie diinc by 
 a sjnall pai'ty, Anieiieaii and r>rili>li, in a >li<irt time, anil at little e\|ieiise. I lie inaiklii;,;' nf it mi tlie 
 |il'ail'ie I'ar away 1111111 all >etdriiieiil s, nr the elialiie ol any liir ^oiiie lime to lenie, enidd lie ia>ily 
 acioiii|pli.-.|ii'd hy the ereeliiin ol mnuiids or cairn- at ei'-lain intervals in |iroinineiit |iositionj. 'J his 
 is at iii'i'si'iii rather ini|iiirlant in thi' region of lied liiver. liir the |>iisitiiin ol' the iioiiiidaiy having 
 only liei n detennnu'd liy |iat«sing ti'aMdlei> with the aid ol ordinary sextains, is not known ulthiii a 
 i|iiarter of a mile; and ihis Ixiiig only 7.'> iiiile- Iroin the ct'iitre ol' the Itritisli settleiiicnt on lied 
 l{ivi r, while Ameriians an' (iusIiiiil; down ihi- vallev, slmiild any revenue or oilitr e:-tal)ii«linieiit he 
 located on thi' wrong side ol the liiii' liy liiher eoiinlry, it might hereal'lei' piove the Miiirie 
 ul' some dilliinlty. Agi'.in, in the eoniilrv ol' the lilaekliiot Indian.-, towaids the Koeky .Moiiniains, 
 some ol the VNaterx ol tin- Mis^onii eiriaiidv eoiiii' tioin llntiish ground; and a> inatie.'- are now 
 being loiiiifd with these lii(lialis liy the I'liited Mates lor the sale of their land- the lioimdarx -liould 
 be known in that |riit. The locality of the lioiindary ha- Imiii lUtennined in thr mountain-, and at 
 their basis on liilni -ide (-ci- Appendix 1 1. ). where I havr dia'Mi alleiition to the pi en liar em 1 1 ig ma I ion 
 ol the moiiniains at that pari. Init tln' rortv-iiinlli parallil i- in no way maikeil. At aiiv rale lh-> 
 deli'i'hniialion ol the bound, iry in the inmuiliate iieiglilioiirhuod of Ked Kivcr should be alteiidcd to 
 Wilhoiit ililay, 
 
 Fntiin Sitllniii'iil. — (.'oiii'i rning the eaiiabilities ol thr sod and climate iov tlif piii|)iise of agriinlliue, 
 1 bavi- n liaiiied Irom making gimral stateimni- which mii^hi lead to ernnieuns eonclu-iolis, but have 
 colilinid myscir 10 speaking ol' iIiom' portions ol' which 1 have pi'isonal knowledge, or concerning 
 which reliable evidence \# to l)e obtained. From ihe inrurnialion i have gleaned. 1 liiink thai the lirst 
 I'le-h -eilleiuent lormedwdl be in the region of .Manitoba and \\ inipegosi- Lake- and the I pper 
 Assiiiiboiiie Kiver: and that .is immigration iiurease.-, seltleiueiils will reach the ."Saskatchewan about 
 il> loik>, and thence u|i the north branch. H.itlle and Wed Deer liivi r-, where timber i- comparatively 
 not so scarce as III the more soulhern part of tlii' connliy: and doubtli^s. in lime to come, a con- 
 siderable business will be carried on in bringing timber down the .Saskalchewan Irom the Koeky 
 Monntaiiis. .My reason for mentioning the country about the lakes and I'jiper Assiniboine is, 
 becaiiM' all iho-e who b.ive vi.-iled this di.stricl riport that tlu' greater portion is well adapted for 
 settlement, liie soil very fertile, and the crimale prnbibly dilfers little I'npiii that of l{ed Uiver ; and 
 in re'.;aid to the means of coinmunicalion, liu liordeiinL; I. ike- would oiler cou-ideiMMe lacililie-. as it 
 iippi ar- that -teiinei - of light diMie.; lit mignl run Irom Wed l!;ver ."seillement in Lake \\ inipeg iln oiigli 
 tin; l.illle >asl. Ill 111 wan to Lake .Maiiiiolia. and tlieiici to llie Watei hen KiMT into W luipeiio-i- Lake. 
 
 1 his i« one roilie winch ha- been piopo.-i d |o the .S.i-k.itehi wall, the ill-lalice across the Mu— \ I'oilage, 
 marked on map belwi en the l.i^t named lake and I'ed.ir Lake, tlirongh wdiich the .Sa-katchewaii 
 How-, bciiiu oiilv liini mile- : but 1 sin ma I much doubt w Inllier tin- liieiilloii- line ol coiiiiiimiic.ilinii 
 with till I pper .Ni-k.ilehewan would iiolil ii- mMi ai;a;ii-t the iliieri I. mil iraii-imil ihrongh tin plain 
 CDiintry. 
 
 I have -aid that agiicliltural -eltleineiil- are likely to llourisb about lb;' l'ork> of the .^a^katcliewan, 
 anil tiieiice to e.Meiiil Wi-iw,ird iMtlier dian -oiiili-we-I. .My rea-on lor this staleiiH nt i-, that the 
 original pr.iiiie lai.tl, wherever I have -ei n il. 1-. a> well as beiiii; deslitnle of wood, also waiilmu' in 
 good -oil. for windier of a -aiidy, ciaviy, orgr.ivelly suliMiil. Iliiie i- mIiIoiii more than ••. eniiple 
 of inches ol' VI letable mould, and the soulliern part of the ."sa-kalclu'w 111 countiy i- yeneiallv -jie iking 
 ol tins nalnie which irael siielihiiig southward bevoiid the Mi--onri, has in part- not iiiaptlv been 
 termed *• de-i I . " Il musi not. however, be inlirred from the lli.it all piaineland i- -teiile. for theic 
 are ininn ii-e prairie- in the v.illey ol ihe Mississippi, which i \teiid up to bake Wiiipeg. and accoiint 
 for ihe great fertility ol die Led Uiver Valley, which arc ipiite of a ilillereiil ch.iraiter, and are now 
 called •■ arable prairie." in eoiitraifutinctioii to the •• dry upland, m' rolling prairie;' while aroiiiij 
 the nortbein limit ol ilu original prairie, and between it .mil the w.>,ideil disliict, is a belt of gieater 
 or li>-er width, whiidi hav ing once been woods, ha- been cleareil by the exteii-ioii of the In unent 
 prairie fires, and is now a c,oin|iaratively ipeii cinmtry. having a fine lilack vegiiable soil; siicdi is ilio 
 reg'oii about the forks of the Saskatchewan, and much of the country to the north iind west, while 
 thai bordering on the lov^'er part of the .Sa-katchewaii is -o litile elevated above the lakes and rivers, 
 that althongh a great resort for w alt rfowl, il must for ages ii'in.im in its present state. 
 
 liiiiijil /ii /III iiilrriiir f'riiiii a ('iiiiiiiiiiiiicnHiiii with tin- VirU'wil ll'iirlil. — Hut to sjieak of the interior 
 ginenlK, and the lunelit il would deiive from the improvement of tin.' means of commmiic.ition with 
 the civili/.ed wiirlil it cannot but be suppo-ed that many of lh,i>e enterpn-iiig individuals in ( anailii 
 and till' Lower I'rovincis ;; impresM'd wdb the :de;i el " going west would, if the mean- were at 
 hand, rather make lor the somewhat rigorous though luaithy climate of the iiorlhern prairies, where 
 ihev Would still be under the goverimieni to which they have bei'ii aceustoiiied, ih an. as they now~ do, 
 migrate to the Missi>sippi .States. 'I'liiis would .1 class of hardy and striving peoiile be inlrodnced 
 aiiionu the -omewhal indolent yet must capable ii(>pul,ilioii of thi' interior, while others, teinpteil 
 Iiv the ollir of flee giants along the line of land ro.id between Lake Superior and K 'd Uiver, 
 i!i settling would siip[ily some of the rii|uircd link- in the chain of civili/alioii. .\gain, the 
 half-breeds being a class brought up from tln'ir youth to voyaging by land anil water, wdiiIiI 
 ubunduntly supply that, in u country of ijuch extent, much needed element, v.liile many uiisuited 
 
 Ii 4 
 
 :■] 
 
60 
 
 I'Ai'KKs up:lativk to tiik 
 
 i; 
 
 f 
 
 to tlic steiulv work of an ngrlciiltiiral lilc would find tiiniloytm'iit iis slock-kci'iuTs, liimbiiviw, and 
 siii'li like. 
 
 'i'/ir l'ii.is,softlf llwlii/ Miiiiiitiiiii.i.— \n aiilifii.aiion of On- oialilisliiiifiil of a conliimoiis rouli- 
 
 tliiouuli itrili,-li Noilli AiiuTk'a, it is proiiir luTi' to ii'tir to the jia^.-i's ol'lhc luuky Moimlaiiis north 
 
 ofkiliiiKli' 4!)". or, ill other wordti, in Urili^li territory. 'I'liero are many points at wliicli tin- ciiaiii 
 
 ol tiK'.sc mountain?' can be traversod, l)iit omittinLf lor tlic prt^ent that known as '• IWl'ti 
 
 .Sortlurn ,.|^,^,|. |,.|^^^,. ^j,],;,, ,|„, \yt.^\,. nu-\v: that from' TranM-'s Lake to IVIly Hanks at tiic 
 
 J'<tssi.i. i|,.;,il „at(M> of ihe Vonkon in latitnde ('i-2'', as will as one from l)ea.-eV House to 
 
 Stickeen, and others only known to tiie iiardy fnr traders of thi' far north, we eome to three, one of 
 
 •.vhicli erosseii fnnn ihe i-'indlay hraneh of I'eace Kiver to Hahine lliver, tiie northern lioiiiidary of 
 
 tlic province of C'ohnnhia; wiiile tiie other two, at the very iiead waters of I'caee Itivir in latitude 
 
 h:)^ uortii, connect with Fraser's lliver at its most nortiiern lund, one of whicii was deserilied as long 
 
 iit;o as \7'M\ Ity tiiat intrepid traveller Sir Alexander Mackenzie. 
 
 Pauses to Biilisli ('.//«»//'/■(/. -i'lie eonnexioii with llie.se lieilij.'. however, by water, and rather far 
 north on the east side, 1 shall i)ass on to ennnieiale llie known passes more to the southward, and 
 which mav be c:dled the l'a«es to 15rili.sli Columbia. In coiunieiicing with the north they stand 
 thus; - 
 
 I. Cow Dini;: Lake rorlairc or '• Leather I'ass." latiitiide 
 •J. ISoal I'.ncampinent on original .Vthabasca I'ortage ,, 
 .'!. How SI'S I'ass ----,, 
 
 I. Kickiiii; Horse I'ass - - - i, 
 
 5. VirmilJioii l'a>s - - - - ., 
 
 G. Kananaski or Kmigrant l'a>s - - ., 
 
 7. Crow Nest Pass - - - ., 
 
 fs. Kootonay I'a-s - - - - ,. 
 
 'I'lie first of ;lie.>e coniiecls the Iiead waters of the 
 
 .-)4 
 
 {)' 
 
 y.r 
 
 (»■ 
 
 i-)P 
 
 4.V 
 
 51" 
 
 •_'5' 
 
 .jL 
 
 l(t' 
 
 m^ 
 
 M)' 
 
 \. 
 
 I 
 
 •111' 2.")' 
 .\tliabasca Hiver with the great fork of the 
 Fraser. and has invi r been ll.Jed iscepl as a '• poriagi' " belwi'cn llie>e two rivers. 
 
 •J. The sicond i- thai wiiieli until the la-t lew years was nsi'd regn'arly by the Iliid-on > I'.ay 
 Company for ijie conveyance of a li'W furs, as well as de.-patches and servants, Irom the easi ^^idi' lo 
 till' I'acilic by way of the Columbia lliver, and fruiii the " lio.it Lucampmeiit " is navig.ible for 
 (•mall craft ; but this p:\>s, like the (ir.-t, has not been used in connexion wiih any land route on the 
 west side. 
 
 .">. 'J'jie third was prob.ably (ir>t n>ed by eilhcr 'rhoinp-on or How»e ianthin- of the •('lee 
 (uMiiiinar t, who, I'dllnw ini.' up tiie north branch of the Sa^k.itciicwan cinssfd llie waler~hed of llie 
 iianintaiiis to (he iiorili fork ol'the Columbia, and tlience lo its source, the Colnnibia Lakes, where 
 striking tl e Kootonay River, he followed it down to the smilh ol 4!l" north. 
 
 •I. 'i'lii' •' Kickinir Horse l'as«," so named by Dr. Hector, crosses the water-bed iVoin lu ;'.r the 
 head walc-r- nl ISow \\\wv to those of the Kootonay, aod may be reached by ioUowing np either the 
 nortli or south biMiiehes of the Sa-kalchewaii by land. 
 
 ."). While aiioilicr (<v<.- I'arli.inuntaiy I'.ipi'rs, .Iimc 1H.")!>), tlu' " Vermillion I'.is-," also traversed 
 and l.iid liov.ii by i)i'. Hector during ilu' summer of 1^*.")H, occurs aUo on liow Itiver, !»o near the last 
 naiiU'il one that il is iiiiforliiDate that the westi'i'ii edge of the inoimlains was not reached. a-> it 
 Would tlieii h.ive been proved whether thi'se passes can be of value in connexion with a coiitiniions 
 route across the coiintrv. 
 
 (!. The next pa-> wliicb enters the iiioiintaiiis in conniion with the lillli on How Kiver has been 
 li:'me I the " Kananaski l'a>s " (see i'e liameiitary I'api'rs, .liiiie Ifs.,!*). and was laid down by filitiide 
 and lon;:ilncle oL-ervalions dining llie >uinnier ot |S.')M by Captain Pallixr. Tlii- al>o bads to the 
 Kootonay lliver, passing mar the Columbia Lakes. It is geiuially supposi'd that llii- p,i--?i wa> oiilv 
 di-coverei| last year, but a de-eri|)lioli of il is to be foiiml in " An Oveilanil .lonriay round the 
 Woriil, ' by Sir lieorue Simpson, who, together with a p.irt\ ol' einigranls about .511 in number, under 
 till' late Mr, .lame- Sinclair, pa-scd llnoniih. but not «illi carts a.- has been stated > sei- Lvidence 
 before the Select Coiiniiittce, lliid-on's l>a_\ t^ue.-tioii). lo the lowi'r part of the Columbia in |S4I, 
 be-ides which il ha- been iiseil by other travellers, Il we are lo eoii-ider its western e.xlieinitv lo 
 the soiilli of the Columbia Jiakes. it i- a long and indirect pass, but as yet it has <inly been iisid for 
 following the valley of the Kootonay, and thence into Aiiieriean territory. In the event of the 
 country west of the Columbia L.ikes proving suitable lo a land road, this as well as the previous 
 three would prove available for cro-sing from the Sa-kateliewan north of latitude .">!". 
 
 I'or one huadred gtograpliical miles of the iiiountains south of Mow Kiver no pass is at present 
 known to exi-t until wc come to Mocowans or Kelly Iviver, a tributary of the .Siiith Saskatchewan, 
 on the br.iiiches of which four ]»a-bes outer the n ountain-, the " Crow 2Sest," the '• Kuotonav," the 
 " Koundaiy," and the " Flalluad." 
 
 7. Of the first of these we know only rsec Aiipendix II.) that its eastern entrance i.s on the river 
 of the .same name, while it emerges in the vicinity of the "Steeples" or .Mount Deceplion, while 
 neliher of the two last are entirely in Kritish territory, hence tlu name of " lioiiiidary I'ass ' lor that 
 one which has it- culminating point, norili of 4!> " and"whicli has hww des.riiied (.\ppe'iidix II.) 
 
 H. llie "Kooioiiay I'ass," the most siailhern, iiiid, of those yet known, by far the slioi te-t in Kritish 
 terriiory, having bei^n already <U-iril)ed in dei.iil, as well as a plan ami section having appearid 
 (-ee Appendix 11.), requires no Inrtber notice, but I will here observe that there is one point on 
 wiiich I may have been miiilaken, namely, that the river at its western extremity, into which the 
 .ngwain Kiver falls, in pirliaps not the main Kootonay Kiver which I fell upon luar'the 4'.)th parallel, 
 I'llt may be the Stag m Llk Kiver, a branch of it. On reference lo my map, however, it will be ,seen 
 that seven miles of the cour.se of this nvcr is only dotted (signilying'that 1 bad not actually seen il 
 '' ' ' ' uitiy take place in thai inteivul, 1 have eoiidequeiitly 
 
 Kiver 
 one o 
 
 I 
 ill lb' 
 count 
 iIk' n 
 in a 
 to tl 
 earriii 
 Atl:i 
 
 I 
 
 betwi 
 
 Shi 
 lim 
 capil. 
 of Li 
 the 
 iiortl 
 tliiH 
 mud 
 
 v; 
 
 New 
 year: 
 ■ind 
 iH)nli 
 
 /; 
 
 there' cso tiiai the junction of these two riverj 
 
KXPLOllATION OK BRITISH XORTII AMKRICA. 
 
 61 
 
 iniiili' till- nltcrnlioii in ird on tlic Diij^iniil in!ij> (si-c .\|i|niiili\ II. \iu{ In I'ultnl liin.t us inicfrhiin, and 
 I tiiki- liii^ iipiiniinnily til' >luiin;i tlini uliii'.evi'r apiti ai^ on anv niap ol' m\ own in iniitiiiiinl liii's /.v 
 yWiw (((•/»(// (///.<(■;•/•,/'/(,», notiiinj^ olilaini'tl liy icpoll, liowcvcr icliiilil.-, Iicinif ai'nplcil as ci riain. If 
 lliis piMctifi' wi'ii' nioic m'nfrally rullnwcil l)y iiiivcllcrs, lln' ^icih r |iiit ol'ljios' nii>iak. s ami 
 inconsi^ti'iii'ii's wliii'ji can^c >nrli trouble Id lln- nia|ipri- wonlil lie picviiiud. \>liatrvi'i' course tlif 
 river aliiivi' allndcl In lakes, tiu! (•\tn inity oi" Kooionay I'.i-.s remain- uiiil;an;,'i'd. lor in proceidini? 
 westward out of it ttie direction woidd not be alon;^ hnt aero-s the river, on to the tuli.iLi'o plains, as 
 Bliown in till- section I, Appendix II. 
 
 The passes nt° which the allitndes are known do nut dilltr lireally, and I refrain iVoni ( oniineMtinf; 
 (111 tiicir relative merits, liecanse, Ixd'ore any piirticnkir one ciin he selected for the eonstrnelion ol a 
 road, the easiest laml ronic I'roin Hop", at tiiir we-iern hend of I'faser's liiver, shonld he ascertained, 
 wiiich, consideritij; the distance, wonid he no very u'reat nnd<'rlakin;Li. in eonclnsion, 1 wonid oidy 
 remark tiiat ((/ /in. ■mi/ no y»(.s< in liritisli li rrifori/ is /inn-fii'ii/ilr Jnr w/iri/nl niiri.ii/is. 
 
 C'linitrii Smith of' llif Siishiitfliewiin Uivi r. ()\\ reference to the maps it will be observed iImI the lale 
 explorini,' expedition has hit a i.nj^e portion of the country in the neij^hhourliotui of the south lir.iiicli 
 ol° tlje Saskaieliawan, and the tract between that rivi r and tlie niternational lionuijarv, |!iiallv 
 lineX|ilored, but in order to remedy this <iei'iet I have enllected all the relial)|e inlormalion ii\ my 
 power, and I should here inculion that tlie ^neater part of this I obtaineil from Mr. Ilarrioll.a iclired 
 chief factor of the Hudson's Itay Company service, now living; at Kcd Kiver SctiKineiii, who has 
 travell.d over the yrcater part of that country as far as the Missouri. 
 
 It .appears that the soutli bratich of the Saskatchewan is almo-t entirely destiinle of wood up to 
 the vicinity of tin' junction of licii Deer and liow liivers, the whole country lieiu;.' pj-.iirie, but abiuit 
 seventv miles siuitli of that point there is a rao'je of low W(jo(led InlU, liaviiiir .m c\ii'n-ion east \.\\i\ 
 west about ci;^htv miles. 'I'hi'-e hiljs are n-ually called the " ( 'ypre--. Mouniaai," Ir.iui the fiel of a 
 specie-, of pine, kluiw ii bv tiie naiiu- of "■ ( 'ypr(' " to ihe I'rench hall-bnids, jirow in;4 thei i' in abnndani'e, 
 and appear to lie the watershed between the .Saskatchewan and Missouri, lor lliri-e are sireaurs 
 descrilicd as runinin; toward- iiotli river-. There, nu)reover, seems to hi' a iiooil supply of buildiui,^ 
 timber, "hi<'h may yet prove of much value, llcinj; about .seveiily mile-, north of the iioiuuiiry, it is 
 well «illiiii 15riii-h teiritoiy. 
 
 Iliiiilf //iriiiii/li till' Jiitiiinr. — ,\s to a route from lied liiver Scithnu'nt to any of the more >outlu'rn 
 pa-si's, it wcudd follow the trail now in nsi; to I'ort Idliee. thence alonii; tlie (^luippe'.le liiver and 
 Lakes, striking: the south branch near its elbow, and then followiiie- the geiuaal dneciion of that rivi-r 
 towarcls the moiMitains, taking whii'hcver br.tnch led to the selecteil pass. This wamid d<ud)tless be 
 entirely a laud route, for the Assiniboine beiui; very tortiu)ns, and only lit for canoes, and the 
 (Jn.ippclle bciu'^ in places not even iiavi'^'able for these frail craft, no water traiispiu't would be 
 available except on the .Saskalcluwan, and if the country \vi re examiiu d, probably uood hailing; ])lacos 
 W(udd be found which woidd allow of a direct cour-e beiUL; uiadi' fri>'n tlie " IHImiw '' to " Ilaii'ioll's 
 (Jvpri'ss M(unilain," which would materially shorten the disianee to tin- three lorks ol' the l>ell\ 
 Kiver, near the most -ontluru pa-scs, 'i'he ili-tauee Irom lieil liiver to the we- tern exlreuiit; , 
 one of the pas-'-s would lie ]irol)ubly !)!)(> miles by tin; wiiulinus of a tr.iil. 
 
 I have previously nu-ntioiud that to the west of the Kooky .Mountains no land riuile to the i'a;ilic 
 ill lirilish terriiory is at preseni known, but we are aware I hat from Hope on l'ra-er\ Ki\er the 
 couiilry Ill's been traver-ed with [ ,ck animals, keipinij north of l!'* as I'lr ea-t as I'orl Shepherd on 
 the iiorlh link of the Columbia, -o ihat there reiiia lis from the base of lln' inoniilains but I Id miles 
 in a direct line to be ero-sed in order to e-labli-li the tact of a land nuite Irom I'l'd liivei' Settlement 
 to the Pacific. 'I'his would, howevi'r, be alter arrivinj; at the miMiulains nnivailalile for wheeKd 
 (•arria^^es. It remains, iherel()re, to be considered by the projier authorities whether the state of the 
 Atlantic and I'acilic proviiicis demand the opeiiiinj; of a waiiijDn road. 
 
 ;j 
 
 i).-ii. 
 
 TEi.f,i;ii.\i'ii .\ND M.vii, lioi ri:. 
 
 I have now to propose tiie cstabiishmeiit ofan uniiilerruptcd ciunmunieation by electric telep;ra[ili 
 bi'tween the .Xtlautic and I'acilie tbrouLjh Krilish Ninth .\meiica. 
 
 Slinrli.it DistiiiurJ'roin Alhinlir lii I'mific. It is wcu'lby of notice that the " j^reat circle" (shorlos' 
 line on the jrlobe) passinj; through Montreal, llie seaport ol Canada, and New Westmin-ter, the 
 capit.il and seaport of Ibiti-h Columbia, follows the valley of the Ottawa, theiiei' to the north shore 
 of Lake Superior throuj,di Ki'd liiver Setliement, toncliiii^r tlie South .Saskatchewan, ai;d so across 
 tin,' Rocky Mountains; and this is the only dirict couliniKUis line for a land route through the iiioro 
 northern part of the continent, clearinj; as it does both Lakes Superior and W ini[)eif, and it will be 
 tliiH roun- that the coiilimious line of r.iilway through the Uritish provinces, whenever that shall be 
 iimde, mils 
 
 '/;/. 
 
 //'■"/' 
 
 t folic 
 
 i/( mill Itiiilnutil. 
 
 ;ain. 
 
 flc 
 
 rapli coinmiinication is at present completi 
 
 iin St. ,Iol 
 
 Newfoundland, and Halifax, Nova .Scolia, to the nio-t we.-lerii settled iiarts of Cana<Ia 
 
 III. 
 
 wliili' in ji few 
 
 meiit of t 'anadti. 
 
 ycr.irs ihe line ol' r.iilroad \wll be coniplele between Ottawa, the fuiuiv seat of (io 
 
 and Halifax, Nova ."^eotia, the niMrcsl port to Llirope in the uiaini.ind of .Noitli .Xiiicrica, whi 
 
 lly opi 
 
 contiiilia 
 Distil 
 as follows: — 
 
 II dm III'' winter. 
 
 Tl 
 
 le di-tance across the entire continent, not aiiowint; lor the sn 
 
 curve < 
 
 are 
 
 llalif.ix, N.S. to Montreal 
 Montreal to Ottawa 
 
 Ottawa to Nipi<;on May, Lake Superior 
 Nipi;,'(Mi Kay to Red River Settlement 
 Kcd Kiver .Settlement to Koeky Mountains 
 
 I 
 
 Miles 
 
 G.")(» 
 100 
 
 or.o 
 u»o 
 
PAPERS UFXATIVK TO THE 
 
 J 
 
 "# 
 
 .™ 
 
 Mild. 
 Horkv M()iiiit.iin'< tci the 'Juirordi'orjiiii - ... 40O 
 
 lliilitax, N.S.. to (iiiU'ofCii-or^m - . - - ;J,0(I0 
 
 Allimtii' MiiimuT port olMiiiitii'iil III (iuir<ir(u'or!{iii - - '2,!VtO 
 
 Wfstciii I'Xlromitv ol' ('Miiiulian iiilniiil ii.ivi},MliiiM to (iiill' of Oi'orj^iii I, (>()() 
 Ol'tlu' total (liKianci', 7."j(l iiiilci ol H'l(Mira|iliic c iimiiiiiiicatioii is al presi-iit I'Htiiblislicd, Iimv'ii-j llu' 
 roiiiaiiiiiij; tlinr-loiirtlii \vi to In- iiccomiili-lii'il. 
 
 l'n>iiosfil 7'ilii/rii/ili.— \l would hi* iiiiieuloii> to cxpwt lor many years to come a continuous 
 railway I'oiiiimmicatioii tliroiijfliciiit liii> iiiiiiiiii-i- ili.-iaiu-i', Inii Irom llu- Tact ol ovi'r oiic rnurtli ol'iln' 
 (iistaiiic l)ciii^ now (•(iiii|ili tr, ami ioii-iil«'riii}.' tlu' iiualiiililile licni'lit tin- rnitcd Kiiijjdoni and tier 
 distant nlonii's woniil lUrive Irom iMiini'MoM liy tili'i,'ra|iii, 1 am fncimr;i)i('d to aiivoiatf warmly 
 till' carrviiii; out ol' this i'nl<'i|iri»f. \'' ere ilir I'lilirc line in workinji oidiT, and .•'M|>|)o»nii; tin- 
 '• AtlaiilU' Tcli'jjiajih" not in fXisfiMicr. IJriti-h t'ohnibia on tlio I'ai'ilic wonhl Ix* within irn days of 
 Kn!.'l;ind. wlnUt al |iri'stnt four timo> that pi'iiod docs not nuHict' lor the coiivt yancc of nrwH, cviii 
 throUL'li a rorcijjn slate. 
 
 It Would ciiii»ei|nenllv a|i|H ar advis.dile to lii\e this line at once marked init. All that portion 
 thronuli the wooded dislriet lioin Ottawa to NipiL'on M:iy. and liience to Red Uiver Settleim'iit .(und 
 be aeeompiinhi'd with the least I'xpen-e dnnni: wmler, uliile the remaiiniiL.' portion, a considc'.i' :•.■ 
 part of which is well known namely, from Ueii Uiver >pttli nient aero-.s the Roeky Moimtiiiiis to the 
 month of I'faser's River mi^ht he performed diirin;; the follow in>j summer. 
 
 A mail ronie mi;;hi he istaiilidied without mneli ilitHeniiy. bnt the ohjertion whieli I see to it tit 
 present is. that on ai eount of no eontiiinons railw.iy lieiiifi 111 exi-tenee from Halifax, N S,, to (Jneliee, 
 the lorwardiMj; of letter- entirely ihron^^h I'lriiisli territory eonld oidy he :iccom|ilislied with aiiytlnnj,; 
 like despatch wiiile die port of l^iirhee wa^ open duriiii,' tlie sniniiur season. However, this (ilijeciion 
 in no wav applies to the lelecriaphie com'iiniiK'atioii, which is of eonrse open diirini,' the whoK- year, 
 from Newlonndland and NLva Scotia to the west ol Montreal, liein}^ oiie-fointh ol the whole 
 distance. 
 
 Tile eonstnii'tion of an .\tlan'' and I'aeilic r.iilroad. wiiieh lia.s .so loni; eiij;ros!»ed the minds of 
 Americans, is pow in that eoiiniiy hifjiiininji to he con-idtred 11 most l'ormidal)le nndei takiiii.'. and 
 the citizens if the I'lMled .States are veiy inneh divided as to ihi' line of route. .NO le-s than live 
 dillereiit illle.^ have liein surveyed hy the ( Iovim iiment : that iii'ar the lioinidary of Mexico appearing' 
 to he the most leasihle. lint in all of them tiieie is il very i;reat amonnt of sterile land to he yone 
 tliron^h: and it would appear that a eonsideialile portion ol the line from .St. I'.iiil at the head of the 
 navigation ol tile .M:s.i--i|'pi n«iialiy kiiuwn a- the "North I'aeilic route.' which has lieeii laid out 
 so I iose to the international hound. iiy. could In- niiist easily e.irricd oxer Hritish t;l()niid. It seems 
 therefore woitliy ol euiisideiiitiuii vvhciher tlii- could not he made a joint internatiunal iindirlaking. 
 
 C'llNl 1,1 SION. 
 
 In the introilnction to this report, ti u'eiieral sninmary only has been i;iven of my own i'roceedinf;s, 
 the di tail- of exploration and scieiililie impiiry which Wduld enter into a persoii,il narralivr liivin;^ 
 bei n pniposeiv omitleil ; bnt III order thai olln r- may he able to jndue of the d( i;re<' of ili ji. ndence 
 to be |)l,iced on tlie iieottrapliical and other inlornialion beiein jjiveii. 1 will enumerate tin |iiinci|iul 
 iiistruinental and oihci .■iil,'- employed. 
 
 Iiistnimints. — -The instriinieni.- 11,-ed for ^'eneraphical determinations and exploratory snrvi'yii;;^- 
 were ; — 
 
 Ki^dit-inch sextant, the property of \I.i\, Obsi'rvatory Department. 
 
 Artificial hori/oii, 
 I'rismatic cimp.iss, 
 Pocket ditto. , 
 
 Ciironomeier, , 
 
 W .itch, , 
 
 Aneroid barometer, . 
 
 Hoiiiii;,'-point apparatus. , 
 J ii.rmometers, , 
 
 'lelesoope, 
 
 ^Mairneiic instriniients, , 
 
 Besides which I emploved note 
 
 Kxploriii;; expediliiill. 
 
 .><eif 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 Admiraltv. 
 
 Self. 
 
 I'lxploriiiir expedition. 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 Ditto. 
 Self. 
 
 Colonial 1 )epartment. 
 
 and astKiiiiimical eonkputation books, in the p!annin<j 
 
 ce. 
 
 which 1 was much aided by others, as well as a blank map in pifccs, forsake of convcniiiici 
 
 ]\Ii)ife of hiTjiiiii/ liirnrili. — 'I'lie reliance which 1 am now able to place on the country ma|i|)ed is 
 on account of my haviiifr always ke|it a re;.nilar dead reckonilifj of the courses, time, and e>tiinateil 
 rate of tiavclliim, which, lo^i iher w ilh the >ket< h of each day's route, i^ preserved in my '■ loii books," 
 this rcckoniiii; bein;.' (becked a> often iis pos-ibh by celestial observations, and the little difficult I 
 find in ^iiinin(r an idea ol the jreneial featiiies or details ol any part of the country is from bavins al 
 the lime kept full notes, leavinjr little or iiothin<r to nieinory. 
 
 F.lf'i-iifl/ms. The elevation above the sea, dejiths of valleys, and other measurements of lieii;ht» 
 were made by an aner.)id barometer compared at intervals with the teinpcniture of boiliiif^f water, 
 determined by an instrninent of the most improved construction, and have beeti, when necessary, 
 iiiserieil in ibt- acconipanyini,; maps, or n lirred to in the course of this report. 
 
 Ciiif/iii/i/iical I'usitinnn. — The follovvinfi latitudes iind longitudes arc deduced from celestial obser 
 Viitions, except those underlined, which are "by account " from careful dead reckoning. Those lii 
 the sei 011(1 colniiin are what 1 have adopttd when mv positious have diHired from thoae of other 
 observers, or the r.ite of mv chronometer was irrcfjular: — 
 
EXPLORATION OK niUTlSH NORTH AMKRKU. 
 
 ()3 
 
 riac 
 
 Ohwnaliiiij anil Amiiiiil. 
 
 A<Im|.i.'.I. 
 
 Kll 
 
 Yiirk Kiictory 
 
 •1 • - - 
 
 Nttfwuy lliiii-i' 
 
 Kiirl Carlloii 
 
 .lack !'i^li (ri-.kiil I'ikc l.»kr 
 
 Fori Till - - 
 
 Vcriiiilliiiii Creek, heml rrciiii N. In M. 
 
 Vei'liiillicjii ( veek, I'ICI eiiil iif eliiiiii iil' 
 lilkeH - - - - 
 
 Most Noi'ilieni i'dini of Kilnioiitoii iiml 
 Fori Till trail 
 
 .. ,. •• ■ • 
 
 Fori Ivlinontoii ... 
 
 .. ... 
 
 Twill KrioiN .... 
 
 \Voli% K'niid, lOiiiile. N.N.F,. or F.lliow of 
 Hed Deir Kiver 
 
 Jlllielioii of I.itlle ninHireal Hcil I )oer 
 lfivei> .... 
 
 •• 1. - - - 
 
 ("iiei.e ( 'ain|i .... 
 
 Slaiicliier I iiiii|i 
 
 I'oiiil nf WooilV Vailev 
 
 Site of Hon Fort 
 
 Dead Imliaii ( reek ... 
 
 SiiikImv N'alley .... 
 
 niooil ClVrk .... 
 
 IJrily Uix.r .... 
 
 Ijilraiiee i.r Kooloiiay l'a>.< 
 
 Waler-lied .... 
 
 Fliil-liead liiMr 
 
 WiLMvaiii Itivi r. North and Soiilli liliillV- 
 K. ,|ona_v I nuliiij; IVl. M. li. C. 
 Kooloiiiiy ('aiii|i ... 
 
 I'lal-liead Kiver 
 Heilsloiie (reek 
 
 North liiid oi' ■• Walerloii " or " Cliicl's 
 Moiliilaiii " l.iike.s 
 
 .'.;> .i!>S N. 
 
 "..I .VCON. 
 
 :>-2 .•)•-'•.•) N. 
 
 KM) L'.fs \V. 
 
 .•,;l (»•.■, N. 
 
 ID!) :i.rii 
 
 .'..t ;iri> N. 
 
 l(»<) ;i;r(t w. 
 
 :,:i ;i(i",' N. 
 
 no i7"o \V. 
 
 o.t Kt'i' N. 
 
 Ill I I •(> W. 
 
 ■i;t :,-2--j N. 
 
 Ill' L'7'0 \V. 
 
 M H'J- i S. 
 
 II. I .!,-.•() \V. 
 
 .',!» .vr: N. 
 
 II.! L'T'ii \V. 
 
 .'.•_' ;i-J"i» N. 
 
 1 1;! .'idMi W. 
 
 .'.:.' '.'•o N. 
 
 1 1 1 L'iro w 
 
 I • 
 
 .-. I L' I • •_' N . 
 
 1 I I lliO \V. 
 
 .:i !•• I N. 
 
 I I.-, UOO \V. 
 .-,1 .fl N. 
 
 1 11 :,<)■{) w. 
 
 .".() Ill N.^ 
 
 1 1 1 i;n) \v. 
 
 .-.() •_';:• I N. 
 
 II I lOMI w. 
 
 H) .;['u N. 
 
 I I I a|-o \v. 
 (!) ;if(i N. 
 
 II I ^arii \v. 
 
 " l!» '.'7"0 N. 
 
 II l_ .•.()•() NV. 
 liT'lir IN^ 
 
 III .vvov. . 
 l!i IT'o N. 
 
 1 1.-) I.V(» \V. 
 
 IS .'..■) •.-. N. 
 I |.-,'":il •() \V. 
 
 Ki ."i.Vfi N. 
 
 II.-. l!i(» \V. 
 
 Ill .-..VOW. 
 
 I i.'i :i()-i) \V. 
 
 I I.-) L'J'O \V. 
 
 is r,7-:i N. 
 
 Ill l(i-() \V. 
 
 I!) T'l; N. 
 
 I II ls-(t \V. 
 
 II I -JT'O \V. 
 
 K) (I 1' N. 
 
 114 !»•() \V. 
 
 I II Ki'O W. 
 
 !«i L'li (t \V. 
 
 ')S 7() W. 
 
 KKi :.'(»•(» n . h_v lunar oli-ervil- 
 lioii^. 
 
 113 ;{.V() \V. 
 
 .-.I .•,:;•!» N. 
 
 Ill .vow. 
 
 :,\ L'o's N. 
 
 I I.I .-,0-n \v. 
 
 115 '20 W, 
 
 t'hroiioiiieler. 
 Lunar. 
 
 Aeeoiint West. 
 Aecoiiiit I'^ii.^t. 
 ll,-)^ 2.V0 W. 
 
 Ill L>7'0\V, 
 
 111 Ki-n \V. 
 
 1 ' 
 
 N.B — Dugreus, ininutoa, and tenths of a iiiimite nti' used ; no .seconds. 
 
 y 
 
IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-3) 
 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 « 
 
 1.0 
 
 1= 
 
 11.25 
 
 mm |2.S 
 
 ■ SO "^^ ■■■ 
 
 1.4 mil 1.6 
 
 
 Photographic 
 
 Sciences 
 Corporation 
 
 23 WEST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, N.Y. MS80 
 
 (716) 872-4503 
 
 l\ 
 
 SJ 
 
 s> 
 
 [V 
 
 
 ci^ 
 
 
64 
 
 PAPERS RELATIVE TO THE 
 
 M . 
 
 A',„„^,_Ia,n responsible f..r but tVnv proper name., for uhcnovor I was able to discover tlic 
 
 IndiM,. iiMUR. ofanv Urt, 1 l.avo (unl.-ss too long or nnpronounceabkO.-nserted it, and .1. interpre- 
 
 Zi. in Knrli.h. • Wlurc tl.i. I.as not b. on the case, I l.avo fjenorally gnvn t be .m.nes ot trav. lers 
 
 ;;; ;;'u,,,aliH!'; s., ,l>at I an. not rosponsiblo for snch as ' Ik-lly Uiver/' "Devd-s Head,' and the bkc, 
 
 wliicl) :ue Iransiations from tlie Indian. . i • . i- • . 
 
 MrA/,,.. Mv sketciR.s of the passes of the llocky Monntanis, torts, and other objects of niterest 
 i„ ,!,.. country 1 have not inserte:! here; but if it should be considered advisable lor copies to be 
 made of any of them, I shall be ,ulad to place then, at the service of lUr Majesty s t.overnnient. 
 
 Aid of Ihnhons liuy Compu,„/.-l cannot j.ass over the aid which has been allorded me by the 
 Hndsoi/s IJav Company, who," besides refusing remuneration lor the hospitality aHordcd at their 
 estahlishmeius, have rendered everv assistance to the prosecution ol my journeys through tlie.r 
 territories, as well as supplying necessaries i)rocnrable only trom their own stores 
 
 J'nrours ncnv.d at m,.sfm>>/f,n>.--Thc {ayouvs conferre.l upon me by the I nited States Government 
 authorities at Washington, which I visited on my way to Kngla.ul lor the purpose ot obtaining the 
 latct maps and other 'informatiou concerning the natives and country near the international houiRlary, 
 1 «hall not easily forget, for on my mentioning in what capacity 1 had been employed by llcr iSlajestv s 
 
 snail iioL uasiiv luimi, u>i dm mi •..w.i... ,., _.., . ^ „ 
 
 Jovernmeut I'was in-csented with the Ciovernment maps drawn up under the \\ar Depari.neut, the 
 atest report on their well regulated '■Indian alfairs," and I, moreover, received from the i>>mithsonian 
 Institution many scieiililic and other publications. , .,, 
 
 Coiirliiuon III (ir.iv.in.r liiis report to a coiiclnsion, I would wish it to be understood, with respect 
 to the exi.lorii."- expediiion on xvliicji I at first served, that the ccnirse I pursued was the only one t(>_ 
 my mind compatible with the position of an officer in llcr ^Majesty's service, and the carrying out o» 
 the wisiies of the Government. 
 
 I IIOMAS Ul.AKISTON, 
 
 Woolwich, October --'l, le.')!). <-''l't- 1^")"' Artillcy. 
 
 Apfi;NDix I. 
 
 S[„^ Tort Carlton, Saskatchewan River, January 0, 1858. 
 
 As the subject of a communication between lied River Settlement and some civilized p()rtion 
 of the British dominions is beginning to attract some amoiuit of public attention, and as two indill'erent 
 routes are at present in use, one of which, namely, that from Canada, via Lake Superior, Rainy Lake, 
 and the Lake of the Woods, you have this last season traversed, and will no doubt have made a report 
 on tiie same, wiiile during tiu- same season 1 have passed the other, namely, from England, via York 
 Factory, on Iliulson's I5ay, and Lake Winnipeg, I have the honour to lay before you my observations 
 on the'saine for the infurmatioii of iler Majt'sty's Government. 
 
 DcscrliJtioii, of BiKit used in Iliver Naviyation. 
 
 Til the first place, the mode of transporting passengers and goods between York Factory, Hudson's 
 Day, and Red Rive:-, wiiicli is at present aild has been for many years in use, is by means of largo 
 wolxlen boats built in the country, and well adapted for this kind of navigation. Each boat is of the 
 following constnuaion:— Length of keel ^tt feet, over all 42 feet, which gives considerable shear equally 
 to bolii stem and stern-post; breadth of beam !) feet, sharp at both ends, depth inside . "J feet, and wiien 
 loaded with 70 "pieces" (about .jfi cwt.), besides the crew, oars, sail, mast. kv. draws two feet of water; 
 it is steered by means of a long sweep passing througli a ring made fast to the stern-post, except under 
 „„:i ...!.„., .. ,'.,.,1,1,,.. ;o .i,;,^.„,',i 
 
 sail, when a rudder is hliipi)od. 
 
 Each boat is manned by one steersman, one bowsman, and six or seven middlemen, who, mostly half- 
 breeds of Freuch-Canadiau or IJritish ilcscent, laljour in the service of the Hudson's J5ay Comi)any 
 for very moderate wages ; their food, liowever, which consists of "pemmican" and Hour, boing 
 supplied by die Company, as ini.ici. as they have need of; in fact, were it not that they have plenty of 
 good working food, they certainly could not continue this laborious work. 
 
 ■DrsrrijifioH of the Route 
 
 • /I , _i .-1 |,.,.v...7, ......... I..,. v,.» ..-. ..,-....,,.-, ..J.., ^ 
 
 continual bends of the river and the strength of the current prevent the use of the sail, tiie mast, ,'i 
 rough pole, is thereloic thrown overboard, and tracking with occasional {loling is continued until 
 the Ruck Portage is reached, 124 miles above York Factory. 
 
 Work of Mvn. 
 
EXPLORATION OF BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 65 
 
 tlic 
 rpre- 
 ■llois 
 
 like, 
 
 Time, occupied. — Nature of the Coimtn/. 
 Tliis 1'24 miles of river, in my rase, triivellin,;^ witli a brigade of six boats, lightly loaded, namely, 
 with .')() pieces, was aceoinpiislied in six days. The river rnns in a deep cliannertlir'ougli alluvial soil, 
 where not a ])ieoe of rock is seen, save the boulders in liie hod of the river ; from this lirAl impediment 
 westward to liake Winnipeg the geological formation is primitive, the rock, which is nearlv always at 
 the .-iurface, being granite and scliist, and the whole coniiiiy being but little elevated above the water. 
 
 lirscriptioH of f/ic Itoutc. 
 Portage after portage, with occasional intervening lakes, sneceed one another in rapi<l succession, over 
 some of which the boats ha\c to be carried, but at others hauled up the ra[)ids by roi)e^, and the eari'oes 
 tarried over land ; snllice to say, that in the next 40 miles 20 jjortages are made, taking five days. 
 After this two lakes of considerable size, Knee and lloliy Lukes, are pas.sed with foin* portages between 
 them, soon afnr which the llivcr Wepinapanis narrows so nuich that the oars sometimes tcnich <n'anite 
 rock on each side, which rises vertically to a considerable height. IJeAn-e emeririn" from this nanow 
 gorge, which continues for some miles, some very bad rapids have to be surmounted, and again before 
 arriving at Whin-water Lake a portage for cargoes and boats of two-thirds of a mile has lo be made, 
 in order to avoid the White Falls. The end ot a narrow lake is within a lew yards of the source of the 
 Eehiamamis, a small stream whose waters flow to the westward; when sufficient water is only ketit for 
 the passage ol"boats by two dams six miles apart, these were formerly the work of i)eavers, but are 
 now kept up by the passing boats. At the passage ol' a boat a portion is pulli'd away, the boats 
 run tlo'ongh, and it is again shut securely. This stream, which on account of dams has" little or no 
 current, is for the most part through marsh, and so narrow that the willows nearlv meet over head, 
 and the boat sometimes touches the bank on each side. At a distance of ;i.")tt miles IVoin Hudson's 
 Bay Sea liiver is entered, when, by making the last of the ;5.j portages, and pnlling aL;ainst stream, 
 >,'orway House, .1 post of the Hudson's Bay Company is reached, from which to Lake Winnipeg is 
 but '20 miles without rapids. 
 
 Up-passugo, Distance, and Time. 
 
 T'hns, from York Factory to Norway House, a distance of 400 miles, is accomplished only after 
 laborious work i'or three weeks. The time for the passage across Lake W innipeg to Hed l\iver, yOO 
 miles, depending entirely on the wind, may be taken on an average at seven duvs ; making the entire 
 distance from York Factory, Hudson's 15ay, to Hed liiver Settlement, 700 miles, in four weeks on the 
 upwaril p:isjage. 
 
 Down I'lis.tat/c. 
 
 The passage down stream from Norway House to York Factory being accomplished in nine days, 
 making id)out half a do/en portages, at three of which the boat is carried over, one bein"' the two- 
 thirds of a mile portage, all the other rapids being "run," not, however, without considerable risk, 
 makes the passage from Ued River lo York Factory sixteen days. 
 
 J-:nti 
 
 re Passage. 
 
 Thus to go to and from lied Uiver to Hudson's Bay without stoppages is about seven weeks. 
 
 Another Itonte. 
 
 The outlet of the waters which are collected in Lake Winnipeg from the Saskatchewan, Swan River, 
 Red River, &c. is from the north end of the lake by Nelson River, which (lows into Hudson's Bay 
 at the mouth of Hayes River; but the falls and rapids are said to be so very heavy on this river, 
 besides its being the longer route, that it is now never used. 
 
 Inijiossihilili/ of Improvement for Steamers. 
 
 It has been proposed to improve the former route in order to allow of the passage of steamers, this 
 however from the foregoing desciiption will be seen to be impossible: for, if by cutting throngh 
 solid granite and swamp, and the construction of locks, the portages could l)e avoided and the 
 smaller rivers widened, yet in the lower rivers the waiu of water eoulil only be overcome by dredging, 
 which operation woidd be entirely destroyed by the spring llooils ; and I think that it would l)e the 
 opinion of any observing person passing throngh this route, that it woidd be ini[)ossib!e so to innirove 
 it as to allow of the navigation ol' anything larger than the boats : previonsly described) at present 
 in nse ; and ci'rtain it is, that the future produce of the vast western plains could never be 
 transported in this manner. 
 
 Hud.inus Bay. 
 
 But were w route practicable there exists a consideration, which is above all others; namely, 
 diat Ironi the outlet of Hudson's Bay being so far north, and the amount of ice in the bay itself, 
 vessels cannot remain more than six weeks out of the whole year at York Factory, with a chance of 
 iilterwurds being able to nnike their way out again to the Atlantic. 
 
 Natural Outlet. — Land Route proposed. 
 
 No donbt the natural outlet of this great western district is across an easy coimtry to the water of 
 the Mississippi and Missouri, which if first established the west is lost to Britain. It behoves us, 
 therelore, lo establish a route through our own territory, lor the eneonragcuKMit of emigration to and 
 the transport of the future ])roduce from Red River and thr great Western Biains to Canada. Now, 
 as the water route from Lake Superior to Red Uiver which you have traversed is of a still more 
 
 I 3 
 
 
66 
 
 PAPE.:.- RELATIVE TO THE 
 
 amphibious nature tlinn tlu- more nortlicrn one dosicribed in this report it seems natiiriil tlint we 
 slioiiUl look for a liiiul route ; I would tiieret'ore sum>est a >eareli for sueh a one, foiisid.'niMv to liie 
 nonh of the eastern jiart oi'tiie canoe route, nainely. from a port on tlic iiortli >liore of Laiic Nipenor 
 
 crossini; to tlie north <'nd of tiie T.ake of ilir 
 
 as hcinir (|Uit(' as <'o 
 
 nvinietii tor 
 
 the lake navigation by steamers, would lie ou the line of a e.u.linuons railway from other jiorlions of 
 Canada and the United States, besides being nnieh more preferable in a n)ilitary point of view than 
 a route near the boundary line. 
 
 Minns of Travaporf. 
 Steamers will no doubt navigate T.nke Winnipeg and Red Hiver, but the Saskatchewan being 
 obstructed at its niontli by a large rajiid, and ai other places by minor ones, besides the upper part 
 containing numerous shifting sand bars, will likely be little u-ed for navigation, parlieulaily on 
 account of the very level nature of the country westwanl from WvA Hiver and Lake Wiiiiiipeg. so 
 euitable to the fornlation of railways, which I doubt not will be the first means of transport on a large 
 ■caie 1 these plains. 
 
 Piisfii/ Cdtiiiniaiirafion thromjli Uiiifrd States. 
 At present tliere exists no postal eomniunication between Canada and Reil River except through 
 the Uniteil States. 
 
 I have, iSrc. 
 John Falliser, Esq., (Signed) TiioMAa I^lAkiston, 
 
 &c. &c. Lieut. R. Artillerv. 
 
 P.S. -liv tlie arrival of the packet, I hear that the C^madian fiovernment having granted a smn of 
 5,000/. f'M- the establishment of a route hetwccu Ijake Sn]ierior ioid lu'il River, an cniiiMceiing parly 
 is at present eni|)loye(l ill la\ ing out a road I'roni the Lake of the Woods to the setliimenl ol Red 
 Hiver, to tbrm the wistern section of the route. 
 
 January '29, 18j8. '1". 1!., Lieut. R.A. 
 
 Appendix \\. 
 
 ir mill liouiuhiri/ Pitsscs of flir Hurl:!/ Moiiiitiiins in i H.")S. 
 
 I'.v 
 
 lodv of tile exploring exprilitiiiM at tlie 
 "ong. I I. >° •_'(>' \V.. and after crossing the 
 
 Report cm tlie Explornt'wn of the Kootniii 
 Captain Blakiston, Royal Artilleiy. 
 
 On the l'2th of August l.'S.),^. I jcit tlie camp of tl)e main 
 site of How I'ort, base of the Rocky Mountains, iat. .) 1° !)' N. _ ^ 
 
 15ow River l)y a ford about four miles above that point, I gained ground to tlie eastward, so as to 
 get clear of the broken and wooded country on the edge of the niotintains. 
 
 My party consisted of three Reil River half-lireed voyagems, 'I'honias ."Sinclair, ,\inabU' IFoLTg. ami 
 Charles llaeette, i)esides a 'riiiek-wood C'nc Indian '• .hiiues," whom I had enLia^ed as Imnter to the 
 party. 1 had ten hor?cs, live of whicli were used tor riding, and dii' rest carried the paiks. conlain- 
 ing a quantitv of ball and powder, tobacco, a few- knives, and other articles r)t'.>;uiall value fur Jndian 
 trade; also some drieil meat and |)enunican. with tea. sugar, and salt, as well as two boxes eiiiitaining 
 my instruments, liook>, Kc. 
 
 Soon after leaving Row River we crossed one of its ti ibut.iries, the Kanana^ki or I/iko River, a 
 rapid sti'e. nil coming out oi the mountains from the south-we-t ; lure we s.iv the reii aiiis <if many 
 wooden carts which had been abandomd by a ])ar(y of cuiigrants from I{ed River Sclthnient. under 
 the late Mr. James ."^imlair, on their way to tlie Columbia in \>^.')4. who had round it iuipossihie to 
 drag them further in. o the mountains. liiis pass, 1 helievi', i'ollows the course of the river to its 
 source, and is the one by which Sir (ieorgt' Simpson, governor of the territories of the Iliulson's 
 Bay Company, as well as another party of emigrants crossed in the Kocky Mountains in ISII. 
 In the past sea>on it was travelled by Mr. I'alliser. 
 
 The forests consist of spruce («/«V.< (///«/). a small pine (/). binihsiuini). and another rough-looking 
 ahics which grows to a large si/e. .'iUd a few balsam poplar, and asjieii. In travelling through these 
 mouiuain hn-ests, the greatest obstruclicm is the fallen limber, which, lying ;ihoul in .ill directions, 
 causes much ixeition to the hordes, and confines them to a slow pace. It was during llii> (li>i day's 
 travel that I noticed the deva-^lating elleets of a tempest; numbers of trees had been blown down, 
 and many broken short oil 'Hie work of destruction had evidently been of this year, but there were 
 also signs of former work of the same character. 
 
 The 'ollowing day. our c(mrse still tending a good deal to the eastwtird, carried us farther and 
 faither from the mountains, l)ul we pas>ed within twilv(> miles of a marked outlier, which Irom its 
 peculiar form. I called "The I'aniily. " .After this a^ we travelled along through a partially 
 wooded country, and receded from the near hills wliieh obstructed the view, a sharp peak entirely 
 covered with snow opened to us at about forty miles distance. 'I'lie wind was from tlie wistwaid, 
 and to the east of the stinunii of the jieak resti d a nias^ of white cloud, which was very markid, for 
 there were no other chmds to be mcii. with the exception ola few light cirri over hiiid. '1 Ins 
 atteiKling loud gave the mountain the ap])earanee of an active volcano, and theel'.ecl agaiii>l ihi' clear 
 sky was extremely beautiful. 'I"he plienomeiion was caused l)y the acpieous vapom of the warm 
 Pacific breeze b<'ing condensed by the coldness of the snow, and appearing iis a cloud to the leeward 
 
 of the jieak. 1 took cariful bearings of this nu tain, to wliicli 1 gave the iiami' of '"'J he Pyramid. ' 
 
 We camped at the fiirks of a creek, called by our liunler the " Strong Current.'' iiere he was 
 successful enough to procure a few fine mountain trc' whicli proved a v« ry agreeable change to our 
 ordinary fare, which consisted of dried bulliilo meat, containing by no iniaiis too l.nge u propuriioii oi 
 
EXPLORATION OF BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 67 
 
 liV 
 
 fat, waslicd down by tea. Bread was not in our bill of fare, and I may hero state, that durinrr the 
 wiiole sunnner while travellini;-, with the exeeptinn of two Sundays, I never tasted a iiiorsel of farina- 
 eeous food. This may ajijii^ar atonisliiii,';, liiu uln'u eoalinually travellinif, with the appetite sharp- 
 ened hy a ride over the prairie in the euol i)reeze of tiic nionntainK, one becomes ai'eusuimed to do 
 withoiil liour. siill, sUifar, \e., wliieh under other cireninslanees would Ite eonsiilereil indispensable. 
 
 1 he luxi day was Saturday ; wi' rose early, paeked the horses, and made a start as u>nal about 
 sunrise, and travelled on throuiiii nuieh the same sort ofeountry, llie ii|)-lunds lieinir generallv wooded, 
 while ihe boitom.s were partially covered by scrub willow and other bushes. \\ c lialti'd between 8 
 and !) A.M. lor bri'akfast, i;ivin{j[ the horses a " spell" ot' a eonple of hours or so; then started ajfaiu, 
 and ^iiineil a .-ouu'what I'levated position, from which we had an extiMisive view of a fine vailev, 
 watered by two clear mountain str.ams, wlin^h as lliey neared tlii' t'uife oT the jire.it plains, hlrelehin"^ 
 probably uilbont bieak for 70(1 miles eastward, united, and «itli mingled waters, pursued llieir eonrst; 
 towards iiow Kiver, nllimately to poin- themselves into the icy ba.-.in of lIiuKon's Hay. I continued 
 on till we reached the southernmost of the two creeks, within ten yards of which, under the shade of 
 some line poplars, I pitched my -mall patrol tent. '1 he valley bottom was a tine piece; of prairie 
 pasture lor the luu'ses. and presented a most suitable restiiiii-place for a Sunday camp. 1 had (for it 
 Was only two o'clock) lialtel in sulHcient limi' lo allow mi' to obtain an ()b.-;ervation of the sun 
 dnrinii' the afternoon for comparixm with one I hoped to obtain on the morrow, and so rate my 
 ehroimnieter. This important iiistrmm lit was earrii'd each day, turn about, by one ol the men, who 
 for that <iay did nothin<;- I'l.-e but carry it as eartd'ully as po<:-ilile. 1 would reconunend this i)lan to 
 futm-e e^.pl(]rel s. In a larj^e party, ,i few of the steadier hands shoidd be selected lor this service ; 
 but the same niiii should never be obliged to carry tiie instrinneiit every day, lest he become careless. 
 
 My ordinary mode of triivellinu; i^ave the horses six lo seven hours' work per day, with the cxct'p- 
 tion of .Sundays. I'l'i'ipielitly I iialtcd from bieakiast till noon, in order to oblain an observation 
 for latituiie, in wiiichcast' ! camped later. I never, however, i:;avc u[) the plan which 1 adopted from 
 the first, of niiiking an early start, and getting the best part of the day's work over before noon, 
 'i'liere are many reasons in fivour of it. The horses were mostly Indian ponies, which are hardy 
 and work well on glass. Tliey grow somewhat lean while living out during the severe winter weather, 
 but fatten rapidly with the appearance oi the new grass in the spring. They are not accu-tonied 
 to shoes, but I had some on three of them, whose feel 1 considered loo much worn down for the 
 rocky gioinid of ihe moinitains. On camping, the hoises alter being waleri'd, are left to themselves 
 for tile iiiLtiit, die line legs ol lliost' likely U) wander being hobbled with a piece <.)f' soil leather. 
 They are viry sagacious in following a trail. The Ijth of' .August was a Sunday. \\ bile continually 
 travelling, il will be found tliat rest one day in seven is reipiired by man and horse, the former 
 taking advantage of it to wash and mend clothes. 
 
 'Ihe weather continued fliii', and this day the thermometer rose to H5" in the shade, with a clear 
 sky, and fresh bret ze olf the mountains in the afternoon, the ilay closing with a calm evening. This 
 mountain breeze appears to be a regular occurrence during the fine .-nmmer weather of this season. 
 ( )n each of three successive days of line weather which we enjoyed at the site of IJow l''ort, I'.ie morning 
 was calm, at about 7 j .\.M. the wind commencid ligiitly from about W.S.W. off the mountains, and 
 graduaiiy increasing; in the middle of the >lay ami afternoon it iilew a Ire.-h breeze liom the same 
 point, win usually Mime (7n*/«// over ihe nionntaiiis, which disappear bef ire reaching the plains ; in 
 the evening the wind fell, and the night as calm. The e.xiilanalion of this phenomenon is the same 
 as thai of the >ea breeze so unvarying in iropiciil island>, namely, that as the sun gains altitude, the 
 great plaiiH which are entiri'ly praiiie become heati'il, and eoiisiu[neiitly the air in contact with them 
 ascends and is rc[ilaced by the cooler air from the mountains. 
 
 Our general course fiir the next thiee days was a pnini east of south, for we were now as lai' out 
 from the numntains as our Indian ihoiight retpiisiti'. We were, however, within the outlying ridges, 
 which are nnmeroiis, and all run )iaiallel to the larger ranges of the great chain, namely S.S.li. 
 Thus travelling the course wi' wi're on, we had vi'ry seldom to surmount any high land, but passed 
 along till' valleys between lhe.se ridges. 
 
 'Ihe country was less wooded than that previously pas>ed, being for a considerable |iart fine [irairie 
 slojies. ihe main range or watt'r shed, as I supjiosed it to be, was occasionally visible, through gaps 
 in the nearer mountains, at a distance of about thirty mile.s. 
 
 On the hitli our hunter was lucky enough lo procure us some fresh meat in the shape of wupiti 
 or wa-\vaskasew (red deer) of thi' C!rees. In order to lighten the burthen of the horses and presi'rve 
 ilii; meat, tin; bones were taken out, and it was cut into thin flakes and half dried over the niufht 
 cam 1 1 liri'. 
 
 1 le -:ime afti'rnoon, as we arrivd at Traji Creek, just abovi' its junction with High Woods lliver, 
 wi (iiind six tents of 'I liick-woiul Stone Indians who were just [iri'paring their eucaiiipnient. 
 \\ e camped along with them, and as usual, whin with or near any Indians, my (lag, a St. (ieorge's 
 ■lack, Was hi) --led on a pole in Iroi.t of ilie lenl. I gave them a present of some tooacco and fresh 
 meal. These Stone liidiaiw, with whom are associated also a few (.'rees, and whose hnnling uround 
 is the Wooded iuid semi-wooded country aloiif the base of the mmiirtaiii .i: the liead waters of 
 the Saskatei.e van, are a harmless and well-iiisposed people towards the wintcs. cilucalion has, 
 thanks to the liirmer Wesleyaii missionary, the Uev. Mr. [{undle, anil his successor, the Kev. '1 homas 
 WoUey, made some little progress amongst llieni ; a few being able to reail and write the C'ree .syllabic 
 ehiiraclers. now in general use among the niis*ions of the north-west. 
 
 Dining the afternoon I held a talk with these Indians. I told them [ilainly lor what reason we 
 had lieei! sent to the country; that Her Majesty was always glad to hear of their welfare, and tliut 
 an\ mes.sage which they might have for Her, I wmdd take down in writing. 
 
 I 4 
 
i 
 
 I' ! 
 
 ■l 
 
 I 
 
 \f 
 
 "a 
 
 68 
 
 PAPERS RELATIVE TO THE 
 
 " "NVo are "■liid," said an old man, " that tlio great woman ('hid' of tlie Whites takes rompassion 
 " upon us, \vc tiiiiili she is iiiiioraut ol' tiie wav in wiiich the traders treat \\*\ tliey {,'i\e us very little 
 " yoods and aininiiiiitioti tor ^n\\■ I'urs and -kins, and if this continues our children eainiot live. We 
 " are poor, hut we work well for the whitis. 'I'iie Indians of tin- plains treat us badly and steal our 
 " horses, but we do uothini: to thcni, for the miniver tells us so. " In answer to (]uestions from myself, 
 thev said that they would wihh white peo[)le to eome and livi' among them, and teaeh them to farm, 
 uiiiice clothes, \-e.", so that "their children might live," for the animals arc getting every year more 
 scarce. I niav here slate, that I have been fortnnat(! enough this year to fall in with many camps of 
 the diil'erent tribes of Indians inhidiiting this country, trom whom 1 always obtained as nincli infor- 
 mation as possible on their [jrcr^eut stale, and their wishes as to thi" futinc; and 1 hope to draw up a 
 report on the same for the infoiiiiation of Her Majesty's (iovernnient : for without deubt, w hen 
 decidiii"- on the future of this iduntry, some provision should be made for the poor uncivilized beings 
 to whom by right the soil belongs. 
 
 From tli'ese Indians J oblaiiicd a pair of sadiile-bags, of which I was in want, and by giving in 
 boot a little ainnuniition and tobacco. 1 changed a lame horse which I had brought with me ibr that 
 
 puipose for a good strong Indian pony. 
 
 CrossiniX Sinichee or High Woods River on leaving the 
 
 siniciiee or iiign xoods ixiver on leaving me Indians in the mortdng, we travelled over 
 undulating prairie all the tbreiioon, crossing another tributary of this river. During the latter part 
 of the (lav we passed through a narrow wodded ravine between rugged liills, covi'rid with burned 
 forest, anil camped on a small creek. Here I determined to make a cache. 'riiereli)re selecting a 
 "ood thick spruce tree, we enclosed in a box some annnunition, tobacco^ and a tew other things, 
 which with half the bag ot pennnican which still remained intact, rolled iij) in a piece of biitfalo robe, 
 we suspended from a l)rancli about fifteen tiet from the ground. 
 
 AVc were delaved some time next morning by some of the hor.ses having strayed a distance into 
 the woods (luring the night ; iiowever, when Ibund they were ipiiekly uidmbbled, saddled, and 
 packed, and we started not very long iifter our usual hour. The Indian trail led between mnnerous 
 wooded ridges, bur the greater part of tlie wood was burned. The soil of the valleys was usually a 
 deep dark mould, .■-uii]iorting a luxuriant vegetation of the smaller plants. This is the nature of 
 most of these mountain valleys. \\ he re the strata are npheavod to the surface, the groiuid is of 
 course rocky ; such is, howevi-r, not often the ca>c in the valleys, but the lines ot' strata rumiiug along 
 tile ridges are distinctly visible even when the grass is growing, owing to the ditl'erence of colour (jl the 
 gras? on the almost bare rock. The strata run in the direction of the ridge?, namely, a little east 
 of south, and usually dip ti'om, but in some few cas.s towards, the mountains, and at a consideruble 
 vei'tical angle. 
 
 In the al'ternoon v.-e passed clo-e on the lel't hand a very rtinarkable feature ; it was a mass of 
 rock projecting u])\vards from liie top of a hill, and visitile at a considerable distance; from its 
 pecn'.iar t'orm 1 called it the " (hopping J5lock. ' Soon after we gained the height of laud between 
 tile waters of the Spechec and Mocowans, or Belly Uiver, and the wide prairie valley of the 
 latter broke upon o\ir view. We descended a short distance and camped at the fir.st wood and 
 water. 
 
 IJcfore gaining IJelly River in tl;e morning, the ((iiick and ])raclise(i eye of the Indian caught 
 sight of a herd of bulfalo in the valley; lie therel'ore went ahiail, and by tin; time we had halted on 
 th(,' river, and I had oiiiained an oliservation, he had killed one animal. 1 remained here until noon, 
 in Older to obt.'iin a iheridian altitude, and so coinpIet(! my observation lor latitude and longitude, 
 occupying a porliou of ihe time in nieasm'ing the heights of the successive river levels with the 
 aneroid barometer. 
 
 These '■ river levelj" are a very gener.il t'lMture in tliis portion of the Western Continent; I have 
 observed them on all parts of the .Saskatchewan above the i'orks, and its tributaries issuing from the 
 Rocky ]\Ioiintains, as well as on the Kootauie fork of the Columbia on the west side, and the Flat- 
 head River in the inouiitains, from an altitude of 1,000 to upwards of J-.liOO feet above the sea. They 
 are in some jilaces very marked, and appear as a su('cession of steps from the bed of the river to tlu' 
 level of the plain above, often in sight tiir miles, and rumiing li(n'izontally along either side. The "■ 
 tread of the step is of greater or lesser width, the rise nearly always .dirinit and well marked. 
 They were very decided in the valley of Bow River at the base of the mountains, where they appeared 
 cut with niatheinatieal accuracy. 
 
 'J'iie levels measured at Bellv River were: — 
 
 .VtiDVp (lie sea. 
 
 - 1,0:21. 
 
 - KOSj 
 
 - 4,17() 
 
 Present bed of the river - . _ 
 
 Isl river level - . . 
 
 2nd „ . . - . 
 
 yrd, the level of the valley ... 
 These liver levels are for the most part, on the lower portions of the braneiies of the Saskatchewan, 
 on a somewhat larger scale in vertical iuti^rht than near the sources. 
 
 I w;is now on Belly Rher at about the same altitude as on Bow River at the site of Bow 
 Fort, namely 1,000 above the sea, allhougli .s7 miles (geograjihical) in a direct line S.S.K. from it. 
 From this point the route of the party may be traced on the plan attached to this report. The 
 plan does not include the country to the northward, which has no connexion with the passes 
 rejiorted upon. I have, however, the whole country mapi)e(l on a smaller scale. 
 
 'I'lie bed and siiles of this riv(!rure rocky, the strata of hard grey sandstotie, much inclined, and 
 the current obstructed in places by immense granite boulders. We foinid no diiHculty in cros.sing, 
 the water, though running swiftly, being not deeper than three feet, and about 25 yards across. 
 
EXPLORATION OF BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 G9 
 
 Looking through tlie gap in the near range through which tlic river issues, I saw a very (Ucidiul 
 dome-shaped mountain. It afterwards proved to be, when seen from the plains, and also from 
 tlie top of a mountain in tlie Kootanie pa^s, tlie highest and ahnost only peak rising above the 
 others in this part of the mountains. After tlie distinguished liritish naturalist, I named it 
 " Gould's Dome." The gap tiirough which I had seen this mountain was in the eastern or near 
 range, of very regular form, extending, with the exception of this gap, for a distance of five and 
 twenty miles without break. The crest of tiie range was of so regular a form that no i)oint 
 could be selected as a peak, I therefore gave the whole the name of "Livingston's Range;' it 
 is a very marked feature when seen from the forks of Helly River and the plain outside. 
 
 On leaving IJelly River wc rose considerably, and keeping along under Livingston's Range the sun 
 had dropped behind this great curtain before we camped. The spot was 540 feet above Relly River, 
 which we iiad left behind to the northward. Looking to the mountains aliead ol' us I pickedOut the 
 most prominent, and took bearings of them before the Indian, who was in the rear hunting, came up. 
 There were two near one another bearing :)() miles south, one of which, from the resemblance to a 
 castle on its sunnnit, I named " Castle Mountain ;" to the cast of these, but at a greater distance, 
 a portion of the mountains stretched out to the eastward. From'reports which I had previou.-^ly heard, 
 I took the most easterly one, standing by itself, to be the " Chief's Mountain," which the Indian "^n 
 coming up confirmed, and pointed out the place where on the morrow wo should turn into the 
 mountains. 
 
 This oil'set range occurs, as I afterwards discovered, just at the 49th parallel or international 
 boundary line. 
 
 The morning of the 20th of August was thick and hazy, with occasional sliowcis of rain, which 
 entirely prevented me from obtaining the good view of the country which I had hoped lor, having 
 seen but little in the iniccrtain light of the j)revious evening. 1 iherefore travelled on, crossed Ciow- 
 nest lliver, and soon alter noon gained the entrance of the Kootanie pas«, where another of 
 the branches of Relly River issues from the mountains. Here we siruck a narrow but tolerably well- 
 beaten track, which the Indian informed us was the Kootanie tiail, by which thcsi; Indians had 
 crossed the mouiUains the past spring. Making a turn therefore to the W.S.W., nearly at right 
 angles to our former course, we followed this track, which led up a narrow valley along the left hank 
 of the river, and between high wooded hills ; the travelling was good, for we were on the even 
 grassy river levels, and we camped at a spot where a small mountain stream entered the river from 
 the north. 
 
 We were now fairly in the mountains, and had already overpassed the spot where our Indian guide 
 knew anything of the ro.id but by report ; he knew that ifall went right wo should be some three or four 
 days in crossing, and had been told that there was but one track, and that v, c wcie not likely to miss 
 it. It may be asked, why was I without a guide ? The fact was, that a guide had been allotted to me 
 by Mr. Palliser, but on leaving the camp of the expedition on Row lliver, I had started without 
 him on account of the sickness of his wife. He promised to start the following morning and oveitake 
 the party ; which he failed to do. It will be seen subsequently, however, that I did not sull'er by his 
 absence, and I am now glad that he was not of the party, for I have no great faith in the so-called 
 " guides," and think they arc seldom worth their pay. 
 
 The entrance of this pass is in latitude 49° 31' N., and longitude 1 14° 34'W., being (consequently) 
 40 English miles north of the boundary line. I have omitted to insert the latitude and longitude of 
 lioints where I obtained observations, because by referring to the map the geographical position of 
 any place may be seen. 
 
 We started at 5.40 in the morning, with the sky ovcrc.ist and a drizzling rain, and soon entered 
 thick woods and uneven ground, with a great many fallen trees, which caused the horses to travel 
 slowly. We continued travelling in this way and gradually ascending along the course of a small creek 
 running into Railway River, which we had left where the trail parted from it ; this river was so named by 
 me from the striking advantage ollered by its "levels" for the entry of a railway iritothe mountains. 
 Gradually the stream became less and less until after gaining considerable altitude it dwindled into 
 a small quantity of water falling in a cascade. Here we passed Hero's Cliif, an enormous vertical 
 escarpment, facing the east, of hard red sandstone or quartzite, with the strata dipping at least 45" to 
 the west. Wc now rose rapidly as will be seen by reference to Section No. 1 (the Kootanie Pass) ; the 
 trees became smaller, and wc soon reached the region of rock and alpine plants; here were some 
 large patches of snow and a couple of ponds of clear water ; we passed over a quantity of debris of 
 hard grey limestone, of which the peaks on ourright baud, namely to the N. W., were composed. As 
 we were now clear of all shd^ter, we felt the cold damp east wind which blew afresh breeze, and drove 
 along scudding cloud.s which prevented any extensive view. Wc were now on the watershed of the 
 mountains, the great axis of America ; a few steps farther ami 1 gave a loiul shout as 1 caught the 
 first glimpse in a deep valley, as it were at my feet, of a feeder of the Pacific Ocean. It was 
 the Flathead River, a tributary of the Columbia. At the same moment the shots of my men's guns 
 echoing among the rocks announced the passage of the first white man over the Kootanie Pass. I 
 halted for the purpose of reading the barometer, which showed an altitude of .5,!)(iO feet. It was 
 just five hours since leaving our previous night's camp, at an altitude of 4,100 feet. 
 
 This is no jihice for a di.«scrtation on the physical geography of North America, but I may simply 
 Btate, that in that portion of the Rocky Mountains conqirised between the parallels of ;4o° and 54° 
 iiortn latitude, rise the four great rivers of the continent, namely, the Mackenzie, running north t ) 
 the Arctic Ocean, the Saskatchawan east to Hudson's Bay, the Columbia west to the Paciiic, and the 
 Missouri south to the Gulf of Mexico; thus we may say, that in a certain sense that portion of the 
 monntitins is the culminating point of North America, and I now, on the Kootanie I'uss, stood as 
 nearly us possible in the centre of it. 
 
 K 
 
 i^- 
 
70 
 
 PAPERS RELATIVE TO THE 
 
 
 .■) 
 
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 f 
 
 \ rapid desciiit of two lioiirs l)ioii<rht ns to tlie Flathead River, a clear and quick running stream, 
 dividin"' a bcautil'iil piutiallv wooded vallev enclosed bv nioiintains; here we halted soon after mid- 
 ({•IV haviii"' P^ismhI the great watershed, and descemlecfi.gaMi I,4tt0 feet without breaklast. 
 
 Durin^-Suiiduv I did not move from mv plea.^ant c.imp, where was wood, good water, and good 
 mslur;M'o, evervthinir to he desired l>v the "trHveller. I wa>. engaged in obtainnig ohservalions for 
 
 paSllll .l^'.J V,.^.^' V _, »- ^- --..^ '^' "^, 111 1 1.11' 
 
 latitude and longitude, and eouipntinu: them, wntmg up my notes, &c. ; and I also made a sketch ot 
 the mountains over which we had passeil the previous day. 'I'lic men brought in some ducks, grouse, 
 and trout, which made an agreeable ch.uige in our diet; two or three hummnig birds wore seen 
 
 about the camp. _ ,,■,,■ • , • , 
 
 I'lie track now led up to the course of Flathead lliver, through thick forests willi oecasienal 
 opciiiniis crossing several mountiun streams, feeders of the river. We halted for breakfast on i.n 
 oi)en pTece of swahi|)y ground. On moving on again we plunged into thick forest, where the track 
 Wiis groatly obstructed bv fallen timber. '1 he kootanies cut through a good many of the lallen .-ticks 
 to alTow of the passage of the horses, but still the greater number remain as they tall, and cause 
 much twisting, turniim, and branching of the track. We ascended gradually, passing a few fine 
 pieces of open meadow, until we arrived near the head waters of the river, when the different streams 
 composing it becanui mere inountiiin torrents. Here we commenced a steep ascent, the jiath 
 ascending'in a /ig-zag up the hill: the trees, mostly spruce and fir, became smaller until we gained 
 the suunnit of tins knile-like ridge, from wliieli an extensive view of the mountains was obtained. 
 1 halltd to contemplate the seeiie, take bearings, aiul read the barometer, which showed an altitutie 
 of G,fOO leet. All appeared, however, utter eonhision, such slight dilferences were there between the 
 ditle'reiit mountains and ridges. One peak aUme showed itself above the general surliice. It lay to 
 the northward about thirty' miles distant, and I recognized it as " Gould's Dome,' whieh 1 had 
 previously remarked tVoni"lhi> edge of the plains. 1 estimated it to be not more than 1,000 feet above 
 my pre.sciit position, which would give it an altitude of about 7,000 feet. The rest of the mountains 
 appeared all about the same level, and bul few of greater altitude than the ridge from which I 
 surveved them ; there were visible the main range or watershed, then a number of ridges and 
 mountains densely wooded, and of somewhat less elevation ; after whieh, to the westward, higher 
 mountains, the ranges generally taking a N.N. \V. and S.S.E. direction. Such was the scene to the 
 north of my position, but to the southward the mountains appeared to have no general direction, as 
 many runniing crosswise as lengthwise. 1 was now on a height of land between two branches of the 
 Columbia; the rock was the same hard grey sandstone as observed all along the base of the mountains 
 on the east side, no granite showing anywhere. 
 
 Heavy dark clouds were gathering rapidly, and the louder and louder rumblings of thunder warned 
 us of an approaching storm. We had descended but a few yards of the great westei'n slope when the 
 tempest broke with all its violence, and we were wet to the skin in a few moments ; my own habili- 
 ments were far from waterproof, being simply a flannel shirt and pair of leather troweers, with a 
 striped cotton shirt over all. I'lie descent was very steep, the horses having in some places difficulty 
 in keeping their legs, although the path was zig-zag, and the continual descending on foot was very 
 trying to the legs. After some distance, however, tlie descent became less steep, and we continued 
 our course tor a couple of hours before coming to any place fit for camping. Although camping in 
 the woods is always to be avoiiled with horses, we were at length induced to hall from the appearance 
 of some old skeletons of Indian lodges, not knowing how far we might have to travel before coming 
 to any open place ; and we camped, tor the first time, in a Columbian forest. 
 
 The ctiange in the vegetation was first made evident to me on descending the mountain, by the 
 appearance of a beauiitul and regularly formed cedar, which, lor the sake of remembering the tree, I 
 then called the " Columbian Cedar." It flourished at an altitude of about 5,000 feet, and I subsequently 
 observed it as low as y,000, but 1 feel doubtlul as to whether it descends to the Tobacco Plains. 
 IBesides this 1 tound, to me, a new abies something like the balsam fir of the Atlantic slope, but 
 with a rough bark, and growing to a large size ; the spruce and supposed Bank's pine remained with 
 a few baUam poplar ami birch, some of good size ; also maple and alder as underwood. A new 
 larch appeared, an elegant tree; and around our camp were the dead steins of many deprived of life, 
 no doubt in years past by fire, rising to an immense height, and tapering upwards perfectly straight, 
 without a limb, to a fine point. 
 
 The ne.st day we travelled on through these forests, continually descending, and before noon 
 arrived at Wigwam lliver, where it passes between two high rocky hills, which, from their imposing 
 appearance from this spot, 1 called the North and 8outh IJlults. The bed of the river was deeply 
 cut in the valley and exposed grand sand clifls from two to three hundreS feet in height, portions of 
 these cliUs were broken, and pinnacles and blocks of different forms were left, having at a short 
 distance a most fantastic appearance. The track leaving the river and ascending a steep bank, 
 carried us lor live miles over a very rocky piece of country, where the trees were of stunted growth 
 from want ot soil, to the junction of Wigwam lliver with the Kootanie Fork of the Columbia, or its 
 tributary the Elk lliver. The former was forty yards wide and two to three feet deep, and the latter 
 sixty yards across with a depth ot four to six feet, both running with a swift current, their beds being 
 rocky and siony. The Kootanie Fork could be seen coming down a valley from the N.N.W., from 
 near a well-marked mountain about twenty-seven miles distant, whieh has been called " The Steeples." 
 I believe that not far above the Wigwam tributary another, called the Elk River, comes in from the north, 
 down a long narrow valley in the mountains. We descended about 300 feet, crossed the small river, 
 and having lost the trail, camped for the night, the Indian's opinion being that we must also cross 
 the main iivii-, wliich would have occupied more time than the decreasing daylight would allow us. 
 Un going lower down the river in search of a better croasiug place, 1 luckily struck on the proper 
 
 trail h'l 
 ,«aiisfacl 
 To tl 
 of the 
 lU mile 
 line, bo 
 The K( 
 Heiii 
 bilities 
 that 1 1 
 advantii 
 the moi 
 the nu); 
 every r 
 will be 
 The 
 to the 
 18 Knii 
 Its len 
 11.5° 
 above 
 
EXPLORATION OF imiTlSH NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 71 
 
 trail It'iKlin;; up the side ol' tlu» riviT hfink towards the south ; so wo turni.'d in thiit nijfht "itii the 
 smist'aclion ihnt we were still to travel in the inorninj^ on dry laud. 
 
 To the west of us, on the other side of tlie riv(!r, was a level imrli:illy wooded country, a portion 
 of tiie Tohaeco Plains, which, as will he seen l)y relerence to tiie plan, is a tract of country of about 
 10 miles in width, stretfliiui;- from near Mount Sabiui' on the unrtii to llie southward of ihe houndary 
 line, houtuled on the we^t hy low wooded hilU, anil skirliuif the foot ol' (Icdtou's Kcnge on the east. 
 The Kootanie Fork in its southern course traverses these pliins. 
 
 Heinu' now at thi' wesiorn extremity of tlie Kootanie I'ass, I will pause to ])oiut out the capa- 
 bilities it alfords for a railway across the moutUains widiiu the Uritish possessions. 1 should pieuiise 
 that I have not suHicieut evidence to be able to state that the Kootanie I'ass is ab^olutelv thr most 
 udvantaijeons place for the cros>in<f of a railroad from the Saskatchewan I'lajns to the Pacific, because 
 the mountains to the north have not yet been suthcieully eN|)lored ; but I am able to say that it is 
 the most southern line wiiliin the Ib'itish territory, and, as yet, by far the shortest; moreover, I have 
 every reason to believe that the most suitable portion of the mountiiins for the paasajfe of a railroad 
 will be l()nnd to the south of Bow River. 
 
 The Kootanie I'ass crosses the Hocky Mountains from the (Jreut .Saskatchewan Plains on the east, 
 to the Tobacco Plains on the west, its extremity on the former side beiuf^ 40 and on the latter 
 l8 I'Jmlish miles to the northwar<l of the international Ijoundary, the 4!)ib parallel of north latitude. 
 Its length is 40 lieoifraphical or nearly 47 Knj^lisli miles, extendiuff from louifilude 114° .'14' to 
 li."»° 24' west. It leaves the Saskatchewan Plains where they have an altitude of about 4,000 feet 
 above the sea, rises '2,000 feet to the watershed of the mountains, descends to Flathead Hiver, af;ain 
 to an altitude of 4,000, foihnvs up this river to its head waters, then crosses a i)reeipitous ridge, 
 reachiny; an altitude of (!,000 feet; it then descends the yreat we-tern slope, falling 2,000 feet in 
 two miles of horizontal distance, ai'ler which, by a nearly unifoi'ui i^rade oi' 100 feet per jjeographical 
 mile, it j^ains the Tobacco Plains at the point where the Wigw.im branch enters Kootanie or 
 KIk River. 
 
 Py reference to Section No. I, it will be seen that liiere are three obstacles to the passajfe of a 
 railroad ; namely, two moimtains and one sleep slope. As to the mountains, they could, I consider, 
 without dithculty be pierced by tunnels. The great western slo|)e is a more serious obstacle; 
 however, in the following; details I ho))e to show that it also may be overcome. 
 
 Prom the forks of iK-lly Uivw on the east side the line would traverse the gradually ascending 
 prairie to the entrancu' of the [)ass where Uailway Uiver issues trom the uiouut.iins. This river 
 would be followed up with a grade of I in 180, or 04 feet per geographical mile for 7^ miles, the 
 " river levels " alfoi'ding considerable advantages; leaving this river it would follow the course of" 
 my track marked on the map. A cutting of about Oi miles would lead to a tuiuiel of nearly 
 5 miles in length, vhich woidd pierce the Waterslu'd moiuitain, and come out in the valley of Flat- 
 head lliver, the whole having a grade of 1 in 1;U), or 47 feet per geographical mile. On <Mnerging 
 into the valley, the line would skirt the base of the mountaiun to the north ol' the track, thereby 
 avoiding a stei'p descent, then following up the river with a grade of 40 feet per geographical mde, 
 it would reach the rise of the western ridge at a height of 5,100 feel above the sea. I'liis woidd be 
 the culminating point of the line, from which in a distance of 10 geographical miles it has to fall 
 1,900 feet to the North and ^^outh IJlulf, and after that, by a slope of .')4 ieet pi'r geographical mile 
 for live miles, to reach the Tobacco Plains, crossing the Kootanie Pork by a bridge. This I propose 
 to accomplUh in the f'lllowing manner: — Prom the cidminating point, to pierce the ridge by a tunnel 
 of three geographical miles, and continue the line along the side of the hills to the north of the 
 track until reaching the North PlidV, the whole with a grade of 190 feet per geographical mile. This 
 portion of the line of ten geographical miles would have to be worked by a wire rope and one or 
 more stationary engines, ilegarding the remaining five miles to the west of the North and South 
 Pliitt'?, a careful survey is required to determine whether a grade not too steep ibv l-.)coniolives can 
 be made. My measurements, taken with so uncertain an instrument as an aneroi( '• .iometer, must 
 not be <!epeniled on to a few feet ; they give a fdl of .J4 feet per geograiibical mile, or ! in 1 12. 
 
 As regards the country to the west of the Kootanie Fork I can say nothing, but that no mountains 
 Were visible to the distance I could see, neither have I any personal knowledge of the Saskatchewan 
 Plains to the eastward of the forks of Pelly Ilivcr; but it is probable that these great prairies stretch 
 without break from this point to the Ued Hiver Settlement, and that in the construction of a 
 railroad little more labour wouhl be required than that of laying down the rails. The following 
 statement of distances to be traversed by a railroad to the Pacific within the British territories may 
 be of interest: — 
 
 Geog. Miles. 
 Pake iSu()erior to Ked Uiver Settlement ... ;}oo 
 
 Red River Settlement, vid Klbow of South Branch of Saskatchewan to 
 
 Rocky Mountains - .... - 700 
 
 Kootanie Pass - .___-- 40 
 
 West End of Kootanie Pass to Mouth of Eraser's River, Oulf of Georgia .'UtO 
 
 Total, Lake Superior to Pacific - - 1,>'3()0 
 
 Probable length of railroad, 2,300 miles English. 
 
 Tluis it will Ik- seen that out of the whole distance one-half is'^over level prairies, and but 40 miles 
 through mountains. 
 
 K 2 
 
72 
 
 PAPERS RELATIVE TO THE 
 
 
 V 
 
 To rosumc tlic nnnativc of my journey :— On the morning of the 25tli of Auj^ust at starting we 
 wvw ()l)lii,'oil to cliinl) tlic face of a steep liillsidc for the imi'iiose of keeping on the left bunk of tlie 
 Koolaniel'ork or lilk Hiver, which here sweeps !n close under an outer range of the nioniunhia, 
 Imviiii,' a north and houiIi direction, and which I liave called "(ialton's Hange." We gained a con- 
 biderahlc altitude above the river which ran at Dur leit, and of whose course 1 liad a view for sonic 
 distance. The banks were vertical and rocky, and the stream appeared to continue swift. Jloth 
 horses and men had encnmh to do in elimliing' up, aiul tlien coining down ayain I'nini llie iieights. I 
 was v.eli repaid for my climb by the remainder of the day's travel, which was through magnificent 
 open fine>l8 with i)ate"iu\s of prairie sometimes of considerable extent. 'I'liesc fori'sts were the finest 
 it had lieen my good fortnne to see. A splendid species of pine and the larch previously spoken of, 
 with ilieir bright red b;r«ks, rose from tlie ground at ample distances; no brushwood enenmberej 
 their feet or olVered impediment to the pingress of waggons, which might move in every ilireetir)n. 
 
 .Vs we ailvanced along the prairie tlie trail forked, and our Indian took the branch which led 
 nei'.rest the river, as from information lie had received he believed it to be that which led to the 
 trading post. Towards evening, according to my ri'ckoning, we crossed the boundary line, and 
 camped about two miles within the Ainer.caii territory, and not more than a mile I'roin the river. 
 In a few minutes a Kooianie Indian came to us on horseback. My Indian guide ".lames," knowing 
 but a few words of his language and a little lUackfoot, and he not knowing one word of Cree, we 
 had some difHculty in coinpreheiiding that he wished to inform us that liiere wfre no people at the 
 trading post, which he described as being (piite close. A small present of tobacco and something 
 to eat were thankfully reeeiveil by him, and he took his li'ave. Shortly after there came several 
 more from the same camp, having a chief among them. They were mounted on good looking horses, 
 and raced up to our camp as hard as they could gallop, no doubt with the idea of creating nil 
 impression. The evening was spent in a talk with them, erne of them understanding HIaekfout. It 
 was dark before they took their deiiartme, having promised that they would meet lis in the morning 
 at the trading post, to guide us to their camp, where they wished us much to come, saying they liacl 
 some provisions. 
 
 Tollowiiig the track still S.S.W. the following morning in a thick fog, we came on the river, and 
 witiiin a liw hundred yards found three diminutive log houses. Two of thein, not over ten feet 
 square, and to enter which it was necessary to crawl through a hole as an apology lor a door, had 
 evidently been n;cd for dwellings; the other, sonu'what larger, witiiotit a chimney, we were informed 
 was the Kootanie chapel which had heeii eiecleil the previous s])ring wiien a priest was there. 
 
 The Kootanies afterwards informed me that while people always c(mie in the fall, reimiining the 
 winter tr.iding with them, and returning to Colvillc, eight or ten day.-.' journey, in the spring. These 
 are the Hudson's IJay Company's people, and this post is what (igiires on maps in large letters aa 
 " Fort Kootanie." 1 remained here till noon, and obtained observations, which placed the jiost in 
 latitude 48° 55''5 X., and longitude 115"^ ;)!' W., thus a little over live Knglisb miles south of the 
 bonndaiy. 
 
 In the afternoon I rode four miles across prairie in an easterly direction with n chief, the pack 
 animals following, and ai rived at the Kootanie camp, where I was under the necessity of shaking 
 hands with every man, Wuinan, and child. The people had a rather tlirty and wretched apjiearance, 
 but their herds of horses, and some few horned cattle, showed that they were not poor. 
 
 Having pitched my tent at a short distance from the lodges of the Indians, which were in a pleji- 
 sant situation near a small stream with some woods along it at the base of Galton's Kange, 1 was 
 soon inundated with presents of berries, dried and fresh, dried and pouiuled meat, and cow's milk. 
 Of conise, although no payment was asked, I paid tliese people for their food in tobacco, 
 ammunition, i^-c. 
 
 Seeing thai there was no chance of starving, I determined on remaining here some days for the 
 sake of the horses; the next five days were therefore spent in trading, and exchanging horses, buying 
 provisions, &c., and obtaining by actual observation and Indian roort such knowledge of the country 
 as I was enabled to do. 
 
 The weather was fine and generally calm, but rather warm, the thcrmomeler ranging from 47" 
 to 8'2° in ihe shade. 1 should have said, that in my passage over the mountains I had experienced 
 no cold nights, the teinperatnre at sunrise being usually about 50°, once only so low as 37°. 
 
 I made an excursion to the north of the boundary with my sextant, to obtain as near as possible 
 the precise position of the line; I fo.,.,'. no remarkable feature to mark it, but noted the place where 
 it crossed the hills. I al.so obtained a sketch of the mountains to the northward, .Mount Decepiion, 
 or, as I had iny,«elf named it from its peculiar form, "The Steeples," standing out cjnitc distinct 
 from the rest. I may here say, that it was in the neighbourhood of this mountain that Mr. I'alii.ser, 
 followinir the old emigrant pass which he had entered at How Kiver, emerged from the mountains 
 alter a six or eight days' journey ; he then recrosscd by the Kootanie Pass, wiiich 1 had previously 
 explored. 
 
 1 found the Kootanies communicative, and from them gathered thefoUowing information : — 
 That Colvillc, an American settlement on the Columbia, was about eight or ten days' journey 
 \yith pack horses, and that thoy could descend to it by the river in canoes, but there were too many 
 falls and rapids to admit of its being ascended; that the Flathead Kiver, which I followed up in the 
 mountains, runs to the south and joins Clark's Fork of the Columbia, on which is the Flathead 
 Mission, which they described as ihree days' riding south of this; that there are large lakes to the 
 N.W. of the Kootanie Post, from one of which a small river (lows and joins the Kootanie Fork 
 before it falls into Clark's Fork. 
 
 They also told me that there was a pass entering the mountains a little to the .southward of their 
 camp, and which came out on the east side near the Chief's Mountain ; that there were long hills, but 
 
 
EXPLORATION OF BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 73 
 
 not 80 steep ns to the Kootanio Pnss, and that tlicy used it sometimct when the horses were heavily 
 loaded. 'lli!.s iiiformation of another pass in a portion of tho mountains tiiat I know should bo 
 explored caused nic at once to decide on reerossiiij; the moinitains hy this pass, alllioii^h I knew that 
 it n>U9t lie wholly or partially on American f^roinid. I, thi-refori', prevailed upon a Kootanio to 
 accompany tin- party across as unide. 
 
 There are some considerable tracts of the Tobaco Plains which are prairie. The ji;rnss<, however, 
 does not j^row close and thick, but in small binicncs with bare frround between, and the pasture is 
 noiliinir to be compared in appearance to that at the base of the mountains on the east side. Tlii.^ i» 
 perhaps chielly owin}^ to the nature of the soil, which in the latter case is a black mould, while on the 
 Tobacco Plains it is sandy, and iu metit parts stony. At this season the grass was <piite dried up and 
 yellow. 
 
 As to the Kootanio liulians, their lauf^uaue at once strikes one as beiiij^ uu)st f^tittural and tnipro- 
 nounceablc by a Kiu'opean, every word appearing to be brought up from their lowest exlrmiities 
 with (lilKculty. 
 
 They are netirly all baptized Uoman Catholics, and are most particular in their attendance at 
 nu>rning aiul evening prayers, to which they ari' sumninned by a small hand-bell. They always 
 pray before eating. On the Sunday that I spent with them their .-iervice, in which is a good deal 
 of singing, lasted a considerable time. One of their number preached, aiul seemed to be well 
 attendetl to. 
 
 Their food at this season appears to be ahuost entirely berries; namely, the " Saskelooni " of the 
 Crces, a delicious fruit, aiul a small species of cherry, also a sweet root, which they obtain to the 
 southward. 
 
 They grow some little wheat aiul a few pea*; a jiateii of the fornu'r, about forty yards square, 
 which [ saw near their camp, although rather snudl-headed, looked well, a proof that this grain 
 thrives in latitude 4!)° at an altitude of •J,rj(»(t feet above the sea. 
 
 They po.ssi'ss more horses than any Indians 1 have seen or heairl of on the east side, a camp of 
 only six tents having about l.jO old and yomig. They also, iu tlieir ireatuunt, are kind to ami 
 show some knowledge of the animal, 'ihey are adepts at throwing the lasso, being brought up from 
 their youth to its n^e. They possess a certain amount of domestic cattle, six tents having twelve or 
 sixteen head; and I heard of some individuals at a distant cau)p who owned as many as twenty or 
 thirty each. 
 
 They are perfectly honest an<l do not beg, qualities which I have never yet met with in any 
 Indians. I extract the following from my journal, written on the spot ; — " ()n now taking leave of 
 " the Kooianics, with whom I have been camped for nearly a week, it is but justice to say, tliat the}' 
 " have behaved in a very civil and hospitable manner; and although our clothes and other articles 
 " liave been lying about in all directions, we have (with the exception of some hide liiu's, mocassins, 
 " and other articles of leather, which the half-starved dogs have eaten) not lost a single article." 
 M'bether this honesty is to be attributed to the knowledge of Christianity spread among them by 
 the ministers of the Roman Catholic church, or whether it is innate in them, I can oidy say that it is a 
 great contrast to the effect produced by the missions in the Indian territory on the cast side. 
 
 The Tobacco Plains form the country of the Kootanies, but every spring and fall they cross the 
 mountains to the Saskatchewan Plains for the purpose of killing buHldo ; they return with supplies 
 of dried meat, i\c., with which they trade for blankets, knives, tobacco, Ike. with the Hudson's 15ay 
 Company's traders at the Kootanie Post. They also sonuUimes cross during the latter part of 
 winter, when there is sufficient crust on the (h-ep snow of the raoimtains, on snow shoes, also for 
 the purpose of obtaining provisions, for there is little or no large game on the west side. 
 
 On the *2d of September I set out on my return journey across the moinitains. The morning 
 was clear and sharp, the thermometer being two degrees below freezing. After I had lost sight of 
 the Kootanie camp, and was riding ahead of my jtarty on a S.S.K. course over undulating prairie, 
 I felt satisfied that I bad done all that came under the spirit of my instructions, and was happy to be 
 able to recross the mountains by another unexplored route; my only regret was, that this time it 
 was not my fate to see the Pacific. 
 
 Leaving the Tobacco Plains at a point where they were pretty thickly wooded, we followed a 
 narrow trail which, turning the south end of Galton's Kaiige, followed up a small creek towards the 
 north-east. We crossed a considerable mountain stream coming down a valley from the north, 
 which, as it may be of use to the Boundary Commission, I have taken care to mark, and camped at 
 an altitude of 4,070 feet. The following day we crossed soon after starting some high land, and 
 ilien descended for the remainder of the day through thick woods till we arrived in the valley of Flat- 
 head Iliver. The day after we descended by successive steps to the I'lathoad Eivcr, where it is 
 joined by a creek from the N.W. Here I remained till noon for the purpose of fixing the position 
 of this part of the river, which was just twenty-five miles south of where I had fallen upon it in my 
 progress westward. Several peaks of the mountains showed well from this valley, and I did not 
 lose the opportunity of sketching. A storm coming on drove me to camp earlier than I had intended. 
 VVc halted on the creek spoken of, and only about half a mile south of the boundary, which, 
 according to careful bearings, crosses just over a mountain, which itself has its length nearly in the 
 exact direction of the line. Much rain fell in the afternoon, and by the next morning, Sunday, 
 had changed for snow, which continued nearly all that day, giving the nioimtains a good white coat. 
 
 On Monday the 6tli of September we regained British ground immediately on starting at (J a.m. ; 
 we travelled up the creek till 10, when we halted for breakfast. It was cold, raw, and clouded. 
 Here we found that the Kootanies, four men and two women, with whom we were travelling, and 
 who had camped here on Saturday, had started this morning for the traverse of the mountains. 
 Suspecting that we had a good day's work before us, I delayed us little as possible at breakfast, and 
 
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 74 
 
 PAPERS RFXATIVE TO THE 
 
 in U'«s thmi an lioiir and a half we were ngain under wei^h travelling up the course of the creek, 
 
 wli'uli has ^<)fllc iii(fures(|ue liills and ciwciuieB, caused by tlic inclined striUii of red shule and nand- 
 stuiie. Alti r two or thiio miles we bejinn a steep ascent, and were Boon on >,'ronnd entirely covned 
 with snow, in whiili the tracks of the Kootanics who had jrone before us were visible. WV passed 
 aldiii,' llif iil'.H' of a viry >tfi'p hill, and it wns as niiicli as the horses or onrai'lvcH could do in some 
 )(la(e-i to keep footinLt. Wo now descended, crossed a tiiickly wooded foully, .iiid then connnenced 
 till' a-cnr to ihe wuter-slird thr(iU!,di thick wood. The snow inen'a^((l in depth as we asreiukd 
 until, on aniviiifi at tlu' crest, it wa< two lect on the level, and in placid heaped up to douhlc that 
 depili. It wa> cold work truiinintj throujjh the snow in thin leather mocassins without socks; and, 
 to nialvc matters worse, it was hlowinj; anil siiowinit id! the limi'. 1, however, on arriyinj; at the water- 
 shed, with the as-istnnce of the Indian "James," whom I alw.iys found most w-illinfr, unpacked the 
 horsi' with the instnuneiit boxes, and obtained a reading of the barometer, which gave an altitude 
 ol' U,0:)(> I'cet. We ascended iiliwi/ the ridge about H»(» feet more, and then by a /ig-zag track 
 coinineiiced a steep descent. It was not, however, very bad. and we soon arriviil at a siuall 
 motnitain torrent llowini,' eastward, thus regaining the waters of the Atlniitie after an absence of 
 sixteen (lavs. 'Hie trail contiinied mostly through woods down the valley due east. The rocks on 
 the lops of the mountains on either side were often of very curious shapes, and the strata in places 
 much contorted; there were also some magnificint clitf's, and the cascades of snow water tailing 
 down the narrow gullies added motion to the grandeur of the scene. Tlu' snow gradually decreased 
 as we (lesceniled. On arriving at the spot where the valley joiiieil another I found the Indians 
 cam])cd on a patch of prairie, where I was glad enough to let my horse free, as we had travelled this 
 day irom six to six, with a halt of oidy 1^ hours. 
 
 The horses had the first half ol' the following day to rest, and I took the opportunity of testing 
 my aneroid barometer by the boiling water apparatus, making the ordinary observations, and taking 
 a sketch of a very peculiar peak just above our camp. After two hours' travelling on level ground 
 along Ited-sione Creek we emerged on the Saskatchewan Plains, just six geographical miles north 
 of the r.i ' parallel, and camped at Waterton Lakes, two miles east of the moutli of the pass. 
 
 i'iie jxisition of the Waterton Lakes, as will be seen on the plan, is just where the offset range 
 before >poken of strikes out to the eastward from the main eliain, having the Chief's Mountain at 
 its extremity. The uppermost ami largest of these lakes lies in a gorge in the mountains, and is 
 crossed by the boimdary line. The scenery here is grand and picture8<iue, and I took care to make 
 a sketch from the narrows between the upper or southermnost and second lake. 
 
 1 was liere fortunate enough to discover 
 
 a stunted species of pine which M. liourgeau, the 
 I gave him the specimen of this, as well as of some 
 
 botanist of the e\|)edition, had not obtained, 
 lerns and other plants which I hiul collected. 
 
 i was much struck by the comparative greeiniess of the prairies on this side, after the burned-up 
 a])|)earance ol' the Tobacco Plains, which we had left but a few days, 
 
 i remained camped at this pleasant spot two whole days for the sake of the horses, and in order to 
 examine more careiully the nature of the country. Game was abundant, including grisly bears, 
 and we obiained both fresh meat and fish. The trout and pike in the lakes were of large size. 
 
 The t'iiief's Mountain was not visible from the camp, but I obtained a good view of it from a 
 kiioll on the prairie about four miles distant, which with my previous bearings enabled me to lay it 
 down, and curious enough, the boundary liiu' passes just over this peculiar shaped mountain, which 
 stands uiii in the plain like a landmark. 1 also made a sketch of it. 
 
 It will i)e seen that sonic of the waters of the .Saskatchewan take their rise from the offset range at 
 the bouii(li:ry line, and from information gained from the Indians, I believe there is a tributary of 
 the south branch, which rises to tiie southward of the Chief's Mountain, tiiis may be the Ihill-pound 
 Iviver of .Airowsmith ; if so, this olfset range has nothing to do with dividing the waters of the 
 Missouri and ."^askatelK^wan, and some of the waters of the latter must come from American 
 ground. 
 
 We experienced a gait; of wind from the south-west on the night of the 7tli, which on tlie following 
 nioriiing ceased very suddenly, and an opposing wind from the iiorlb bronifht rain and snow, which 
 gave another coating of white to the mountains. This corner of the mountains appeared to be a very 
 windy s|)Qt, and when ft was not blowing much on the plain, a strong breeze came from the south 
 down the gorge in which is the Upjier Waterton Lake. 
 
 On the loth of Septenilier I turned my face towards Fort Edinonton, the previously appointed 
 winter (piarlers of the ex|)eclition, which lay more than three hundred miles to the north, and as will 
 be seen on the plan, passed several creeks, and over a country mostly prairie. I remained at the 
 Forks ()f lielly Uiver on Sunday the l'2th. From this place I visited a camp of forty-five 
 tents of Hlackfoot Indians, accompanied by one of my men and "James," the Cree Indian. I was 
 received with the usual hospitality, and having expressed a desire to change a horse or two, 1 bad no 
 troii'ile the following morning in exchanging one and buying another for ammunition, tobacco, 
 blasikets, old coat, &,c. This tribe has the credit of being dangerous, but from what I have seen of 
 them, I consider them far better behaved than their more civilized neighbours, the Crees. I made 
 It a rule never to hide from Indians, and, although I had but a small party, to go to them as soon as 
 1 knew of their proximity. I also always told then for what reason the British Government had 
 sent the expedition to the country ; and I never failed to receive manifestations of goodwill, neither 
 was there one attempt made to steal my horses, a practice only too prevalent among the Indians of 
 these plains. 
 
 I need not describe iny northward journey ; suffice it to say that I kept to the east of my former 
 track, along the base of the mountains, except when I turned in for the purpose of raising the cache. 
 I rested at liow River on Sunday the 19th, travelle.l t»!ir piuirie till crossing Ued Deer Uiver, the 
 
EXPLORATION OF BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 75 
 
 other fork of the south branch of the Saakatchcwan, on thf'iSrd; then imssing through a piirtially 
 wooded country, which I had surveyod in tlic siininu-r, arrived at Fort Kdnionton on the north 
 branch on the '29th September. 
 
 In this account of the return passage of tlie llucky Mountains, by wiuii I have culh'd the liouiidary 
 I'ass, I havo not entered into sucii details as in the ease of the Kuotanif Wxm, hccausi', as tvill l)i> 
 Been by the accompanying phm and sections, more thiin one half of it lies in Anii-rican ground ; hut 
 I have given the same amount of attention to the mapping of il, as I lonBidercd a knowledge of that 
 portion of tlie nu>untains would be of service to the Intrrmitioual lioundary C'lHnmissioni.'is at present 
 engaged on tiie west side. Moreover, I do not consider the lioundary I'ass so well suited for the 
 passage of a railroad as tlie Kootanie I'ass. 
 
 It will be perhaps noticed that I have said nothing concerning the fitness of the Kootanie Pass for 
 a waggon road. My reason is simply that where a railroad can be constructed, a waggon road can al.-<o 
 be made ; without considerable expense a road coidd not be nuide to pass over the two high [loints 
 (through which a lailroad would tunnel) in the line of the pack-horse track followed by me; but 1 
 have no doubt by taking more circuitous routes, both of these heights might be passed by >loiies 
 adapted for wiieel carriages. In other parts tiie road would follow the line proposed for the 
 railroad. 
 
 I iiave not mentioned the existence of two other passes across this portion of the mountains, called 
 the Crow-nest and Flathead Passes, the former in the British and the latter in American terri- 
 tory. 
 
 The Crow-nest Pass, of which 1 iiave marked the general direction on the plan, follows up Crow- 
 nest Iliver, a tributary of Belly River, into the mountains, and gains the west side near " The 
 Steeples." By report of the natives it is a very bail road, and seldom used. 1 observed the old 
 trail coming in from the plains on the left bank of Crow-nest Uiver. 
 
 Tiie I'lathead Pass enters the mountains at the 4yth parallel of latitude, follows the west shore of 
 Lake Waterton, and gains Flathead Uiver, which it follows to the Flathead Mission on Clark's Fork 
 of the Colund>ia, about 80 miles south by east of the Kootanie Trading Post. It is used l)y the 
 Flathead Indians when crossing to the Saskatchewan Plains for the purpose of obtaining builalo 
 meat. 
 
 Fort Carlton, Saskatchewan River, 
 December 15, 1858.