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JOURNAL

or AN

EXPLORING TOUR

BEYOND THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS,

UNDER THE DIRECTION OP THE

A. B. C. F. M.

PERFORMED IN THE YEARS

1835, '36, AND 137;

'^^ .

,«»r?

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CONTAINING ,,

A DESCRIPTION OF THE GEOGHAPHY, GEOLOGy, CLIMATC^ AMU

PBODUCTIONS; AND THE NUMBER, MANNERS, A»D xyryJfl I

CUSTOMS OF THE NATIVES. . ,f ,.. ...o

WITH A

■i

MAP OF OREGON TERRITORY.

< )

■■*'

BY RBV. SAmUBI. PARKER, A. »«

ITHACA, N. Y.
PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR

MMk, AndriM, * Woodrofl, Friotm

1838,

»-"^

\ I

Entered, according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1638, by
Samuel Parkeb, in the Clerk's office of the District Court of the North-
tan District of New York.

'*•■■

r 1838, by
the North-

PREFACE.

In presenting to the public the Journal of a Tour be-
yond the Rocky Mountains, the only apology necessary to
make is, the hope of promoting a more extensive and par-
ticular knowledge than has heretofore been furnished, of the
condition of that important section of our country. The
author's mode of traveling furnished many opportunities
for observation, being conducted with leisure, and through
one of the most interesting portions of the wide territories
of the west. It is believed that no defects exist in the work,
irreconcilable with a strict adherence to facts. The prin-
cipal merit which is claimed for this volume is, a scrupulous
adherence to truth. Most of what is narrated in this work
came under the author's personal observation, and whatever
is stated which did not, was collected from gentlemen con-
nected with the Hudson Bay Company, whose reputation
for honesty and candor, as well as capability of judging in-
telligently, is well established. This source of information
was available by comparing and collecting the statements
of different individuals, retaining what corresponded with
his own observation, or was well supported by evidence.
The belief is cherished, that the following work contains a
greater amount of statistical information in regard to the

^il

. 1 -.:.: t •

-It

I \

PREFACE.

country, and important facts, than are to be found in any
production furnished by the press. Having traveled over
a greater extent of territory than any who had preceded,
and with the express object of exploring the condition of
the aboriginal population, this position can not be consid-
ered as assumed. Messrs. Lewis and Clarke passed the
Rocky Mountains under a governmental appointment to
explore the country, more than thirty years since, and their
published travels carry with them the evidence of candor
and intelligence, and contain much valuable information ; yet
their opportunities l)eyond the mountains were somewhat
limited. They passed over the great chain of mountains
from the head waters of the Missouri between the 45*^ and
46° of north latitude, and came upon the head waters of the
Cooscootske, and followed that river to its junction with the
Lewis or Snake river, and then proceeded by water to the
Pacific ocean at the mouth of Columbia river, wintered
upon the south side of the bay, and early the following
spring returned to the mountains by the same route which
they pursued on their outward journey. All other persons
who have published any history of their travels beyond the
mountains, were persons engaged in the fur trade, and ma-
ny of their observations upon different sections of the coun-
try are just, but they are deficient in statistical information,
and their productions are mostly confined to personal adven-
tures, anecdotes of battles with Blackfeet or Crow Indians,
starvation, and hair-breadth escapes. Justice to the public
requires fidelity in the historian and traveler. It is not our
business to originate facts, but to record them. The license
given to poets, or writers of romance, cannot be tolerated

)ersons
nd the
d ma.
coun-
ation,
dven-
dians,
ublic
)t our
icense
[rated

PREFACE. V

here, and no flights of a lively imagination, or graphic
powers in relating passing occurrences, can atone for im-
pressions which are not in accordance with truth. While
it was the leading object to become acquainted with the sit-
uation of the remote Indian tribes, and their disposition itt
regard to teachers of Christianity, yet a careful attention
was given to the geography of the country, its productions ;
the climate and seasons, animals, lakes, rivers, and smaller
fountains ; forests and prairies, mountains and valleys, its
mineral and geological structure, and all the various aspects
of its physical condition. The country here described is
sui generis ; every thing is formed on a large scale. Its lof-
ty and perpetual snow-topped mountains rising 20,000 feet
or more, the trees of the forest, the wide extended prairies,
plants of enormous growth, and the results of volcanic
agency which you meet in almost every direction, render
the whole an ever increasing scene of interest to the trav-
eler ; and if any statements appear large, it is because the
facts are so in themselves.

It has been an object in writing this volume to compress
as much as possible the amount of information, instead of
unnecessarily extending it, and the hopt -3 indulged, that
while these facts are perused, the desire may be awakened
if it does not already exist, and if in existence, may be
greatly increased, to benefit the original, the rightful own-
ers, and, (with the exception of a few thousand fur traders
scattered to every point of compass over this territory,) the
sole occupants of this wide field of uncultivated nature.

The map which accompanies this work has been prepar-
ed with much labor and care ; and though some minute^

4^V>f

•(Tw

PREFACE.

parts are omitted^ it will be found to be far more accurate
than any which has heretofore been published. In addi>
tion to surveys of my own, I have availed myself of those
of gentlemen connected with the Hudson Bay Compa-
ny, in parts which I did not visit, and am especially in-
debted to Vancouver and the labors of other explorers for
much that I have dehneated of the North-West coast of
the Pacific ocean, and the Islands.

The accompanying engraving of the basaltic formation
on the Columbia river, was taken for the purpose of ex-
plaining the geology, as mentioned on page two hundred and
twenty-six, not, however, presenting the whole number of
the different sections of basalt, amygdaloid, and breccia,
but a sufficient number to illustrate the subject.

'i -

accurate
In addi.
of those
Compa-
ially in.
3rers for
coast of

)rmation
e of ex-
dred and
imber of
breccia.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

The Tour commenced by way of Geneva and Buffalo ; a brief de-
Bcription of Erie ; of Meadville; rest at Mercer ; Pittsburgh; pas-
sage to Cincinnati in the steam-boat Ohioan ; WheeUng ; Marietta ;
Portsmouth; the steam-boat takes fire; Cincinnati; LouisviJle;
Falls of the Ohio ; the Ohio river ; Ohio and Kentucky ; conflu-
ence of the Ohio and Mississippi rivers ; Point Girardou ; beautiful
appearance of fire on the prairie ; St. Genevieve, old custom ;
Herculaneum ; gambling on board the steam-boats; St. Louis ;
Dr. M. Whitman ; Mr. Fontenelle 13

CHAPTER n.

Leave St. Louis for Liberty; passage up the Missouri; snags; a
walk on shore; Jefferson city; river scenery; steam-boat Siam;
sand bars; Lexington; steam-boat disaster; Liberty; Navahoe
Indians; ride to Cantonment Leavenworth; amusing dialect;
caravan commence their journey ; first encampment ; loway In-
dians; Blacksnake Hills; Nodaway river ; Elk; crossed the Nesh-
nabotana ; rich soil ; rapid rise of the north branch of Neshna-
botana ; mode of living ; mounds of the west ; crossing of the
Missouri; Bellevue; Missionaries. ..;... 26

A,.

CHAPTER III.

Continuance at Council Bluffs ; interesting scenery; Indian curios-
ity ; information obtained about several Indian tribes ; spasmodic
cholera; an Indian chief killed; leave Bellevue for the Black
Hills ; storm of rain ; heavy thunder storm ; Elkhorn river, the
country around ; Loups fork of the Platte ; manner of encamp-
ing; Big Ax, Pawnee chief; Indian feasting; fourth of July;
Messrs. Dunlar and Allis; thunder storm; Indian ornaments;
effects of drunkenness ; bite of a rattle-snake ; buffalo seen ; Prai-

Vlll

CONTENTS.

lie horse-fly ; forks of the Platte ; want of wood ; swiftness of
antelopes; climate; thousands of buffalo; Badgers; prairie dog;
interesting bluffs; old castle ; the chimney or beacon ; an alarm ;
Ogallallah Indians, their lodges ; Black Hills 41

CHAPTER IV.

Black Hills ; day of indulgence ; buffalo dance ; the desire of Indians
for instruction ; met the chiefs in council ; re-commenced our jour-
ney for rendezvous ; anthracite coal ; species of wormwood ; Red
Bute ; traces of grizzly bears ; geology ; Rock Independence ;
Rocky Mountains; perpetual snow; valley through the moun-
tains; "thunder spirits" gone; an alarm; waters of the Color-
ado.

CHAPTER V.

Arrive at rendezvous ; trappers and hunters ; four Indian nations ;
Flatheads and Nez Perces, no reason why so called ; surgical ope-
rations; an interview with the Flathead and Nez Perce chiefs;
their anxiety for religious instruction; return of Doct. Whitman ;
Shoshones and Utaws ; mountain life 76

CHAPTER VI.

Part with my associate; arrive at head waters of the Columbia;
kindness of the Indians ; narrow defile ; geology ; Jackson's Hole ;
wild flax ; trappers go out on a hunt ; mountain prospect ; Trois
Tetons ; danger from affrighted buflfalo; Pierre's Hole; volcanic
chasm ; children on horseback ; interesting worship with the Indi-
ans; burial of a child; scarcity of food; a timely supply; Sal-
mon river; expected battle; geological observations; scene of
mourning 82

CHAPTER VII.

Salmon river and mountains; chimnies; forest trees, new species
of pine; geology; sulphur lake; a rare animal; new species of
squirrels and pheasant ; came to the Lewis branch of the Colum-

lan

CONTENTS.

bia ; ferryman ; basaltic formation ; fine climate ; arrive at Walla
Walla. 108

CHAPTER VIII.

Description of Walla Walla ; the kind treatment of the Indians by
the Hudson Bay Company ; leave Walla Walla for Port Vancou-
ver; loquacious orator; rapids; introduction to the Cayuse Indi-
ans; morning prospect; long rapids; volcanic mountains ; trial
of Indian generosity ; arrival at the falls of the Columbia river ;
the rousing effects of oratory ; La Dalles ; Boston trading compa-
ny; remarkable subsidence ; Cascades; Chenooks are the Flat-
heads and Nez Perces ; dangerous rapids ; Indian burying places ;
Pillar Rock ; interesting water fall ; sea fowl ; arrive at Fort Van-
couver

123

CHAPTER IX.

Description of Fort Vancouver; departure for Port George and
mouth of the Columbia ; mouths of the Multnotnah ; Wappatoo
island ; May Dacre ; coffin rock ; Cowalitz river ; Indian friend-
ship ; Pacific ocean ; Gray's bay ; Astoria 140

CHAPTER X.

Description of Fort George ; mouth of the Columbia ; dangerous
bar; mountainous coast; varieties of timber; good location for
a missionary station; continued rains; dense fon sis ; excursion
in a canoe down the bay ; view of the coast ; disasters at the en-
trance of the Columbia ; ship William and Anne ; ship Isabella ;
Tonquin ; Japanese junk ; reflections ; water fowl ; return to Fort
Vancouver ; the regard Indians show the dead; Indian kindness. 146

'''if ^ m

•'•Ti .

f.k'

' ■• 'V.'

■ -.'if

isies

im-

CHAPTER XI.

Review of journeyings ; school; journey up the Willamette; walk
upon the pebbly shore ; falls ; settlement on the Willamette ; meth-
odist mission; epidemic; voyage down the river; hospitality of
Wanaxka ; construction of liis house ; Port WilUam on the Wap-

1 • -S-''

■'

CONTENTS.

patoo island ; astonishing thirst for ardent spirits ; return to Fort
Vancouver 158

CHAPTER XII.

Services on the sabbath ; obstacles to the gospel ; discouraging case ;
manner of spending time ; description of Vancouver ; fur and farm-
ing establishment; garden productions; lumber; commerce;
peltries ; system of the Hudson Bay Company; waste of life;
hardships of a hunter's life; their perseverance; christian princi-
ple ; worldly principle

CHAPTER XIII.

Indian population; diseases; mortality; attributed to cultivation of
the soil ; destitute of medical science ; holidays ; customs at home ;
customs of the Indians ; resemblance to Jewish customs in pun-
ishment; marriage contracts ; condition of ihe females ; slavery;
division into tribes; two points of dissimilarity; sacrifices; lan-
guage

170

178

The

Convl
earl
the!
call
the!

CHAPTER XW.

Tho various animals beyond the mountains.

186

'hi

CHAPTER XV.

Pish ; description of salmon ; salmon fishery ; dendrology ; shrub-
bery ; nutritive roots; geography; mountains; valleys; plains;
forests; rivers; soil; seasons. 198

CHAPTER XVI.

Qoology.

208

CHAPTER XVII.

Character and condition of the Indinns; Indians of the plains; their
persons; dress; wealth; habits; physical character ; manufac-
tures ; their religion ; wars : vices ; moral disposition ; supersti-
tions ; medicine men 228

n to Port

158

[ingcase;
md farm-
mmerce ;
te of life;
n princi-

170

vation of
at home;
9 in pun-
slavery ;
es ; lan-

178

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER Xyill.

The Indians of the lower couniry.

242

CHAPTER XIX.

Conversation with an intelligent Indian ; meeting with Indians ;
early and mild season ; La Dalle Indians ; their jnxiety to receive
the gospel: ornithology; Nootka humming bird; number and lo-
cation of the Indians in the lower country ; Indians of the north ;
the agitated question ; solitariness 263

CHAPTER XX.

Departure for the upper country ; American hunters ; geology at the
Cascades ; Indian honesty ; escape in a dangerous gale ; the Falls
a favorable location for a missionary station ; tender sympathy ;
famished Indians ; arrival at Walla Walla ; interesting meeting of
Indiana ; opportunity to give them religious instruction ; a walk ;
the nutritious quality of prairie grass 264

Vf.ia

186

shrub-
plains ;

198

208

their
nufac-
jpersli-

226

CHAPTER XXL

Journey to the Ncz Perce country ; funeral of a child ; natural scen-
ery; worship on the sabbath ; return to Walla Walla ; industry of
the Indians ; battle ground ; practice of smoking ; journey to Col-
viUe 275

CHAPTER XXII.

Paloose Indians ; Pavilion river; extraoiilinary excavation ; lost on
the prairie ; Indian principle ; Spokein woods and country ; Indi-
an ferry ; Spokein valley ; Granite ; volcanic curiosities ; fertile
valley ; worship with the Spokeins ; Mill river valley ; arrival at
Fort Colville ; description of the place ; leave Colvillo for Fort
Okanagan ; a mountain of marble: Grand Coule, or old bed of
the Columbia ; Okanagan described ; Long Rapids ; arrive at Wal-
la Walla > tti

-em

' •:"*'.

|..;^

Kky >i

V 1 • "I ,

XII

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXIII.

A summary of the Indians of the upper country ; names of the
tribes, their locations and numbers ; leave Walla Walla for Fort
Vancouver ; swift passage down the river ; run the Falls ; Cas-
cades ; dangerous eddy ; arrive at Vancouver ; steam-boat excur-
sion

300

CHAPTER XXIV.

General remarks ; Meteorological table ; Vocabulary of the Nez Per-
ce, Chenook, Klicatat, and Callapooa languages ; Ornithology.

CHAPTER XXV.

The voyage commenced fo" the Sandwich islands ; passage in the
boat down the river ; take passage in the barque Columbia ; deten-
tion in Chenook bay ; arrival at the islands ; worship in the native
church ; description of Oahu ; the Pari ; the valley of Manoa ; de-
scription of Honolulu ; of Waititi ; heathen temple ; Eva ; Waia-
lua ; Keneohe ; mountains ; salt lake ; geology ; natural produc-
tions ; animals ; government ; tea party of the royal family ; din-
ner to the officers of the Peacock and Enterprise ; decrease of pop-
ulation; unfair negotiations; foreign residents; charity school;
seamen's chapel ; burying place of the royal family ; missionary
success

341

CHAPTER XXVI.

Departure from Oahu in ship Phoenix for the United States; call
at the Society islands; brief description of Tahiti and Eimeo; se-
vere gales of wind ; Magellan clouds ; Martin Vass island ; Trin-
idad ; arrival at New liondon 360

The
tio
Cii
ino
Oh
anc
on
on
cIIcJ

the 1
cond
Is3t i
of th
ical
atten
to t\
God
who

ty.

Miss
to ai
char
for i

li^::

;'j;r

f\ (/*

of the
or Fort
s; Cas-
t excur-

300

fez Per-

logy.

312

in the
; deten-
e native
loa; de-
; Waia-
produc-
ly ; din-

of pop-
school ;
sionary

341

Is; call

|o; se-
Trin-

360

(

PARKER'S TOUR.

CHAPTER I.

The Tour commenced by way of Geneva and Buffalo— a brief descrip-
tion of Erie— of Meadville — rest at Mercer. — Pittsburgh — passage to
Cincinnati in the steam-boat Ohioan — Wheeling— Marietta-— Ports-
mouth — the steam-boat took fire— Cincinnati— Louisville — Falls of the
Ohio— the Ohio river— Ohio and Kentucky— coflnuence of the Ohio
and Mississippi rivers— Point Girardou— beautiful appearance of fire
on the prairie— St. Genevieve, old custom — Herculaneum — gambling
on board the steam-boats — St. Louis— Dr. M. Whitman— Mr. Fonten-
die.

The wide extent of country beyond the Mississippi and
the Rocky Mountains, with its inhabitants and physical
condition, has been a subject of interesting enquiry for the
last thirty years. Many things, relating to the possessioa
of the country, its future probable importance in a polit-
ical view, its population and trade, have occupied much
attention. The christian public have not been inattentive
to the interests, moral and religious, of those whom the
God of providence has placed in these remote regions, and
who are without the blessings of civilization and christiani-
ty. The American Board of Commissioners for Foreign
Missions, appointed an exploring mission to that country,
to ascertain, by personal observation, the condition and
character of the Indian nations and tribes, and the facilities
for introducing the gospel and civilization among them.

p.-

'■-iV

ERIE ^MEADVILLE,

HJ'

!il|:

That difficulties and dangers would be incident to a jour-
ney through a country of such extent, uninhabited except
by wandering bands of Indians, where no provisions could
be obtained besides uncertain game, could not be doubted.
It was not a consciousness of undaunted courage, or in-
difference to suffering, or the love of romance, which fixed
my purpose ; but it was the importance of the object. It
was a trial to leave my family not knowing what was before
us, but when the time came to commence my journey, we
committed ourselves to God, and the enterprise was under-.
taken without reluctance on the 14th of March, 1835.
Spent the next day, which was the Sabbath, at Geneva ;
and the following day continued my journey by way of
Buffalo, travelling day and night, to Erie, Pennsylvania,
where I arrived on the 19th. Erie is a very pleasant
village, of considerable business, situated upon the south
shore of the lake of the same name. It has a good harbor
for steam-boats, which pass up and down the lake, and for
the accommodation of which, wharves have been built at
very considerable expense. The country around is fertile,
and presents much promise for the agriculturist. Had a
night's rest at the hospitable dwelling of the Rev. G. A,
Lyon. On the 20th took stage for Pittsburgh, which is
one hundred and twenty miles south ; and on the morning
of the next day breakfasted at Meadville, a very pleasant
inland village, situated near French Creek, forty milea
south of Erie. Here is a court-house, and a college of
which Rev. T. Alden, D. D. was the first president, who
took a very active part in its establishment. The col-
lege edifice is situated upon an eminence facing the south,
and commanding a fine prospect. There arc also in this
village two churches, and several other public buildings.
From this place to Mercer the roads were extremely bad,
on account of the depth of the mud ; but the difficulties
were overcome by the usual methods of profuse whipping,

al
ii

to a jour-
ed except
ions could
doubted,
ge, or in-
hich fixed
bject. It
vas before
irney, we
as under--
ih, 1835.
Geneva ;
y way of
isylvania,
pleasant
the south
»od harbor
), and for
n built at
is fertile,
Had a
V. G. A,
M hich is
morning
pleasant
rty miles
ioUege of
lent, who
ixhe col-
16 south,
in this
ildings.
lelv bad,
IfTicuIties
hipping,

"■^ PITTSBURG II.

unloading the vehicle, and applying rails to the wheels;
at length we arrived late in the night at Mercer, where we
got an opportunity for a little rest, which was very accept-
able, having only one night's rest out of seven. Continued
in this place over Sabbath, and until Tuesday morning.
How desirable is the Sabbath as a day of quiet and of devo-
tion. I never felt it to be more so. Was invited, while I
should continue in this place, to share the hospitality of

Mrs. P , whose family I found to be very agreeable

and pious. Mrs. P and her brother J. P. S., appear

to be very devoted and ready to do whatever may promote
the glory of God and the salvation of souls.

Took* stage five o'clock Tuesday morning, and passing
through Centreville and Butler, small, pleasant villages,
arrived at Pittsburgh on the twenty-fifth. Dined with Dr.
Herron. Pittsburgh is situated at the confluence of the
Alleghany and Monongahela rivers, nine hundred and sixty
miles above the mouth of the Ohio river. Its location is
judiciously chosen. The country around, agreeably diver-
sified with hills and vallies, together with meadows and
bluffs which skirt the rivers, adds much to its charms. In
point of manufactures, population and wealth, but few places
in the valley of the Mississippi equal this in importance.
Among its manufactories are many large iron foundries,
rolling-mills, and nail factories ; also large establishments
of glass works, in some of which is manufactured flint glass
of an excellent quality and good workmanship. The mate-
rials for making this are uncommonly good. The lx3st of
granular quartz of loose texture is obtained from a location
«ome little distance up the Alleghany river, where there are
inexhaustable quantities. It is more purely white than is
often found. On this account, this place has nn important
advantage over most others for manufacturing the above-
named article. There are also several large cotton, and
many other factories, of various character. There arc

IS*

Mm'',

•J'

I !

i :'

;>|P WHEELING — ^XASIETTA.

such immense quantities of excellent pit coal about this
place, that there is no reason to fear it will ever be exhaust-
ed, or become expensive. The city is well built ; but has
rather a gloomy appearance, caused by the smoke of the
bituminous coal so much used in their factories and dwell-
ings. While Lowell is the Manchester, Pittsburgh is the
Birmingham, of America. » f '

There are in this city, thirteen houses of worship, and
many public institutions for literature, justice, and com-
merce. With the name of Pittsburgh, will always be
associated Braddock's defeat, which took place when he
was sent to take possession of Fort Du Quesne, and with
this event will also be associated the skill and prudence of
Washington in conducting the retreat. Toward the eve-
ning of the day of my arrival here, took passage in the
steam-boat Ohioan for Cincinnati, four hundred and fifty-
five miles from Pittsburgh by the river, and calmly descend-
ed the Ohio, which winds its way through a fertile country
diversified with forests, cultivated fields, and flourishing vil-
lages. On the morning of the 26th, stopped at Wheeling,
Va. ninety-two miles below Pittsburgh, situated on the
south side of the river, upon elevated ground, surrounded
by high and steep hills. The great Cumberland road cross-
es the Ohio here by a ferry. It is a manufacturing town
of growing importance.

Passed Marietta seventy-six miles below Wheeling, situ-
ated on the north side of the Ohio, a little above the conflu-
ence of the Muskingum. It is surrounded with a fertile
country, and is one of the first settled towns in the state.
The first wagon arrived from Massachusetts in 1788, and
Cutler's and Putnam's names are still remembered in this
place. It is a place of considerable business ; has a court-
house, two churches, and an academy ; and from the obser-
vation I could make of it in the evening, I should think it
handsomely situated. ,,

inf
Ol

27^
pa(

nai

thel

vill

on ;j

(teri

.eSiaSf- CINCINNATI.

1 about this
* be exhaust,
ilt ; but has
naoke of the
s and dwell-
burgh is the

'orship, and
)f and com-

always be
ce when he
le, and with
prudence of
ard the eve-
sage in the
id and fifty-
ily descend-
tile country
rishing vil-

Wheeling,
ted on the
surrounded
road cross,
iring town

}ling, situ.

the conflu.

a fertile

the state.

11788, and

;d in this

a court.

the obser-

think it

Passed Portsmouth, situated upon the east bank of the
Sciota, near its junction with the Ohio. This is a flourish-
ing village, and has the advantage of being upon the great
Ohio canal, where it enters the river. The morning of the
27th, we stopped at Maysville, Kentucky. This is a com-
pact, well-built town, situated a little below Limestone
Creek, sixty-five miles above Cincinnati. There is but a
narrow strip of land, on which the village is built, between
the river and a chain of high hills close in the rear of the
village. Manufactures and considerable trade are carried
on ; and its location is favorable for business with the in-
•terior of the state. - •. - - , -i

Arrived at Cincinnati on the 28th. On our way to-
day, near the town of Ripley, the boat took fire in the hold.
There was a very stiff head wind, which blew the fire back
from the furnace down the hatch way, which after taking
out some goods, had been carelessly left open. It caused great
alarm. The captain at once rounded the boat to the shore,
and ran it in among some trees. As soon as the boat
reached the land, many threw their baggage on shore, and
leaped from the upper deck. The hold contained many
combustible cotton goods. But the fire was subdued, and
after considerable difficulty the boat was again under way.

Cincinnati is a large city for so new a country, situated
in the south-west corner of the state, on the north side of
the river, upon two plains ; one about sixty feet above the
other, both of which appear formerly to have been washed
by the river. The lower plain is about fifty feet above the
bed of the river at low water. The streets run parallel and
cross each other at right angles; the principal ones are
paved, also the bank down to the water against the business
part of tlie city, for the accommodation of loading and un-
loading steam and other boats. It is well built, and to a
considerable extent the buildings are made of brick. One

would hardly think from the mature appearance, and from

U 'lv>l

1^' • ■>. <l

^•■'^ I

f ■«.; ,,^

:j'

FALLS OF THE OHIO.

the quantity of business going forvt^ard, that the first settle-
ment was made in the year 1789. It is not only a com-
mercial, but also a manufacturing, place, to a large extent.
The population is composed of emigrants and their descend-
ants from New England, and the middle and some of the
southern states, and also from various parts of Europe ;
and consequently of not a very homogeneous character.
The city is well supplied with schools and seminaries of
learning. There is a medical college in the city ; and two
miles back, upon a pleasant hill, is the Lane Theological
Seminary, which promises much toward helping forward
the interests of religion in the west. Good morals and re-
ligion are as well sustained in this city as in any in our
land.

Took the sieam-boat Chien, Captain Reynolds, for St.
Louis, which by water is six hundred and ninety miles from
Cincinnati. Arrived on the 30th at Louisville. This is a
jflourishing city situated near the falls of the Ohio, on the
Kentucky side of the river, one hundred and fifty miles be-
low Cincinnati. It is a growing place of much commer-
cial and manufacturing business. The falls of the Ohio are
twenty-two feet, and can be passed over by boats in high
water only ; which stage of water does not average more
than two months in a year. To save expense and delay
of portage around the falls, a canal has been constructed
on the south side of the river at great labor and cost. It
is two miles in length, fifty feet wide, and forty feet deep,
and is cut part of the way through solid limestone.

The water being high, we passed over the falls. It was
a sublime scene. The water about Louisville moves slowly
and smoothly; but as you draw near to the falls, it in-
creases in velocity and power. You soon find yourself
in an irresistable current ; and you are anxious to know
whether your pilots are well skilled in their profession. —
You look at them to see if they betray any fear ; you find.

THE OHIO XIVEB— OHIO AN1> KENTUCKT.

1»

irst settle-
J a com-
je extent.
' descend-
lie of the

Europe ;
iharacter.
naries of

and two
leological
\ forward
Is and re-
ny in our

Is, for St.

niles from

This is a

0, on the

miles be«

commer-

Ohio are

in high

ige more

ind delay

astructed

cost. It

eet deep»

It was

Bs slowly
s, it in-
yourself
to know
ssion. —
^ou tindi

while their attention is fixed, their countenances are serene.
Your fears give way to the pleasure of the sublime. The
boat shoots forward with amazing force and velocity, and
very soon you find yourself gliding along in the wide-spread
calm below. , . r .

The Ohio is a noble river, affording in its whole course
romantic and beautiful prospects. It flows in a smooth and
easy current, and is diversified on every side with rich bot-
tom land, rolling hills, and precipitous blufis. These hills
and bluffs, in many places, rise abruptly from the shore of
the river, in other places they recede some miles, but in
every part are in view ; and so varied is the scenery, that
there is no weariness caused by monotony. No where has
the hand of industry been wanting to add interest in pass-
ing through this part of the great western valley. Farms^
and towns, and villages, evince the advantage that has been
taken of the exuberance of the soil. The many swift-
moving, panting steam-boats show that industry furnishes
the means of wide-extended and profitable commerce. One
can not but notice the difference in the taste and habits
presented on the two sides of this river. Upon the Ohio
side, New England modes and habits prevail. Upon the
Kentucky side, the style of the rich Virginian planter is
seen. Though almost all their buildings, except in villages,
are made of logs, yet there are the customs of nobility kept
up. You see a two story house, with two rooms upon each
floor, and a wide, open, airy hall between. One of the
lower rooms is a parlor, the other is a nursery, sleeping, and
an eating room. Around this log mansion are a cluster of
log cabins, the habitations of slaves. Open, frank hospi-
tality characterizes the Kentuckian, which is pleasing io
a stranger. 1 offered a lady in one of these mansions some
tracts, which she at first declined with the enquiry, *' Do
you think we are heathen ?" ** No, madam, for the heathen
cannot read ; but tracts contain much that is interasting

■■■ ■: .if

:•',;■: n

'■ 'i^

« •-'.*•

J.X-

l:::'rn

PRAIRIES ON FIRE.

!■:

to all classes of people, and after they are read, they can
be circulated among those who may not be well supplied
with books." I saw but a very few houses of worship ex-
cept in villages. .a.. / y j.^v
Passed, on the first of April, out of the waters of the
Ohio into those of the Mississippi. The Ohio spreads out
into a narrow sea and meets the Mississippi in the same
form. Both appear to expand themselves into their most
majestic forms, as though each was making an effort to
claim the superiority ; and when joined, they move on with
united grandeur. We should expect, at the confluence of
these two rivers, to find a business-going village, but instead
of such a place, there is only a whiskey-selling tavern,
around which are a few miserable huts. s \i, iia*i * <t.4'.
.si; To-day, a boy ten or twelve years old, playing about the
machinery of the boat, was caught in it by the leg, and
had he not been immediately seized and extricated by two
men standing by, he must have been drawn wholly in and
crushed to pieces. The bones were not broken, but the
calf of the leg was distressingly mangled. There being
no surgeon on board, I officiated in dressing his wounds.
•(►^ Passed, on the second. Point Girardou, fifty miles above
the mouth of the Ohio. It is pleasantly situated upon a
bluflT on the west side of the Mississippi. It has a fine
prospect of the river, and might, under the hand of indus-
try, become a desirable place ; but the French Catholics are
not an enterprising people, and it has the appearance of de-
cay. We moved but slowly against the wind and current.
Witnessed this evening a very pleasing scene, the fires of the
prairies coming over the bluff's. The bluffs are two hun-
dred feet high, and extend one or two miles along the river.
At a considerable distance they looked like an illuminated
city, but as we approached and had a nearer view, the illu-
sion was dissipated. The fires had got nearly over the
bluffls, and curtained them with a moderately ascending

blaze,!
the n
watei
and g^

MaJ
GenevI
river
Frencl
part fij
long s|
would
turning
their o^
Theyo
to the
say, tha
but tha
the shoi
reasonii
ough-go

To-dj
the wesi
It is all
only a i
shot-toM
considei
wliich i
to distal

In tri
few bool
Some nc
tious ch
rivers ai
of their
gave gn

11,;
it

Jill'

ST. OENBYUBVB— OLD CUSTOK.

iiey can
supplied
ship ex.

3 of the
!ads out
he same
jir most
sffort to
on with
lence of
t instead

tavern,
■ '"if^i
bout the
leg, and
I by two
Y in and

but the
e being
unds.

s above

upon a
a fine
indus<

lies are

e of de-

urrent.

s of the
o hun<

|e river,
inated

he illu-
er the

lending

blaze, drawn up on the bluffs and let down in festoons in
the ravines ; and the counter part reflected from the smooth
waters of the broad Mississippi, added much to the beauty
and grandeur of the prospect. ■ - ; jv ^

Made a short stay on the third, at the landing of St..
Genevieve. The village is situated a mile back from the
river on the west side. It is inhabited almost entirely by
French, who, in their customs and manners, are slow to de^
part from those established by their forefathers, who have
long since passed away. To adopt new improvements,,
would be a step next to giving up their catholic religion and
turning infidek It is amusing to see the manner they yoke
their oxen, and to learn the reason they assign for so doing..
The yoke is composed of a straight piece of wood, fastened
to the back side of the horns by straps of leather. They
say, that in this way, they save the whole power of the ox ;
but that the yoke, bowed to the neck, and drawn back ta
the shoulder, loses the power of the head and neck. Their
reasoning may satisfy themselves, but would not the thor>
ough-going New England farmer. ' . ;

To.day had a view of Herculaneum, which is situated on
the west side of the river, thirty-five miles below St. Louis«
It is almost surrounded by high precipitous hills, having
only a narrow space for the village. There are here several
shot-towers, placed on the brink of high bluffs, in which
considerable business is done. Large quantities of lead,
wliich is brought from the mines,, are sold and carried
to distant markets.

In traveUing upon these waters, it is painful to see how
few books of any value there are on board the steam-boats.
Some novels are found, but the most of them are of a licen-
tious character. Thousands of those who navigate these
rivers are going to the judgment regardless of the interests
of their souls, and almost entirely destitute of the bible. It
gave great offence to many, that we should have religious

■•*ir ■

I'4>
ill'.'

GAMBLING.

worship in the ladies' cabin, as we did by invitation. —
Complaints of obtrusion were made — " Obtruding religion
— no place for such things." But profanity and gambling
are no obtrusion ; they are always in time and always in
place. Christians must keep religion out of sight and
hearing, but the wicked may be as open and obtrusive as they
please. They would not have christians cast their pearls
before swine. Gambling is practised on board the steam-
boats upon these waters to a very great extent. It is a fa-
vorite amusement with those whose minds are not suffi-
ciently cultivated to find satisfaction in reading, or intelli-
gent conversation. The number of black-legs who make
gambling their business of life is great, and they are adepts
in their profession. Their success depends very much upon
their skill in cheating, and to decoy the inexperienced.*
Arrived in the evening of the fourth at St. Louis. This

* THE GAMBLERS CONSTITUTION.

Whereas it is admitted by political economists and by some wealthy
individuals, that employment of labor, even upon things which in them-
selves are useless, is praiseworthy, in that it furnishes employment for
multitudes ; — and whereas this country is so fruitful, that should all be
employed in productive pursuits, there would be more than a supply for
our markets ; and whereas we would be as great philanthropists as tnose
who advocate useless labor to give employment to the lower classes of
community, and to keep up our markets ; therefore resolved, that we,
whose names are hereunto subscribed, do form ourselves into a society
under the following constitution, viz.

Article I. This society shall be called the Fraternal Gambling Society.

Article II. This society shall be composed of all shrewd or silly men,
who, to the fortunes of chance, guided by cunning deceit, are willing to
risk their money and spend their time in getting rich by short methods.

Article III. It shall be the duty of this society to spend their time in

?:ambling in any such way as they may choose; by cards, dice, billiards,
otieries, horse racing, &c. &c.

Article IV. It shall be lawful and honorable for any person belonging
to this society, to cheat and defraud as much as he pleases, provided al-
ways, he conforms to mies of honor and regulation^, specified in the by-
laws which may be made from time to time.

Article V. Any person may withdraw from this society when he has
lost all, to try his fortune in theft, highway robbery, or to commit suicide ;
but not to enter upon any labor which might overstock our markets, un-
der the penalty of receiving the scorn and ridicule of all whose interest
it is to promote gambling ; for it is a principle with us to grow rich by
■ taking from each other's pockets, or in any way except productive labor.

grees
Albam
mile fr
tended
are ope
people
Rive,
the plac
violcntl
were ki
zen can
pi river
damage
of less
one, is,
bottom 1
came fr
General
novel thi
In th(
are nan
their pre
from the
tion, wi
for theii
vorite a
object, ^
As gam
rich, en
Drunker
ists, the

. BT. LOUIS.

tation. —
r religion
gambling
ilways in
light and
^e as they
eir pearls
tie steam-
It is a fa-
not suffi-
or intelli-
who make
ire adepts
tiuch upon
need.*
lis. This

me wealthy
ch in them-
iloyment for
hould all be
la supply for
as those
r classes of
d, that we,
ito a society

ling Society.
]r silly men,
re willing to
Irt methods.
Iheir time in
;e, billiards,

belonging

Kovidea al-

in the by-

L he has
lit suicide ;

[arkets, un-
)se interest

Jow rich by
jtive labor.

is a flourishing business place, situated on the west side of
the Mississippi, two hundred miles above the mouth of the
Ohio, and twenty miles below the mouth of the Missouri, in
latitude 88 degrees 30 minutes north, and longitude 89 de-
grees 36 minutes west. St. Louis very much resembles
Albany, N. Y. TUa ground iscends for about a half a
mile from the rivor, and tli( n spreads out into a widely ex-
tended plain, partly covered with slirubbery, back of which
are open prairies. This place was settled by some French
people before the year 1765. Tiiat year St. Auge De Belle
Rive, with a company from Fort Charles, took possession of
the place. On the 4th of May, 1780, the inhabitants were
violently attacked by about one thousand Indians, and many
were killed. The same year the first American born citi-
zen came into this place. In the year 1785, the Mississip-
pi river rose twenty feet higher than usual, and did much
damage. This river does not rise so high usually as those
of less extent ; and one reason, and probably the principal
one, is, on account of its spreading over widely extended
bottom lands. In 1792 the first honey bees ever known here
came from the east. In 1814, the first steam-boat, the
General Pike, ascended this river to this place. It was a
novel thing, and excited great admiration. i

In the parts of the town built by the French, the streets
are narrow. This may have been done to accommodate
their propensity to be sociable, so as to enable them to talk
from the windows across the streets. The French popula-
tion, with a few exceptions, are Roman Catholics, noted
for their indolence and dissipation. Gambling is their fa-
vorite amusement ; and they have houses devoted to this
object, with signs up, like the signs of whiskey venders.
As gambling does not increase wealth, there are but a few
rich, enterprising men among the French population. —
Drunkenness is not common here, and to do away what ex-
ists, the temperance cause is doing much good. Eastern

■■I ' ■ •' "'' '

1 '!«? 'VV

■Sv
',.''" L

. < .■ :,.t

■ ■-.-.■ ^ft

a. f '~ ' ' jSj4

124

DR. WHITMAN.

.-!t|:.

jM^r

■enterprise and influence is gaining ground since the town
has been brought under the laws of the United States ; and
a new impulse is given to business. This is the central
place in the west for the fur trade, which is carried on by
the American Fur Company to a considerable extent ; and
also much business is done in lead which comes from Gale-
A great number of steam-boats and other water craft

1.::.

of various descriptions and destinations, are seen here at
almost all seasons of the year. Adventurers, of almost
every description of character and nation, come here, such
as trappers, hunters, miners, and emigrants, as to a starting
point, to go into the still far west, many of whom seek a
miserable fortune in the Rocky Mountains. The local
situation of this town is such, that it will undoubtedly con-
tinue to be one of the first places for trade in the great val-
ley of the Mississippi. There are five houses of worship,
four protestant and one Roman Catholic. The catholic
cathedral is built of stone, and is a large, expensive building.
The protestant influence is increasing, and there are here
many active, devoted christians who exert a salutary influ-
ence upon the town and vicinity around. The population
is flftcen thousand.

Found Doct. Marcus Whitman here, who is appointed
by the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Mis-
sions to be my associate. He came through the central
parts of Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois, and arrived a few days
before me. On the seventh we had an interview with Mr.
Fontenelle, who takes charge of the caravan sent out by
the American Fur Company. The caravan goes a very
little beyond the Rocky Mountains, for the purpose of car-
rying out goods for the Indian trade, and for the supply of
their men who are engaged in hunting and trapping in and
about the mountains, and to bring back the furs which they
liave taken during the year. There are about three hun-
dred men constantly employed in and about the mountains,

A FIRE.

and more than sixty who constitute the caravan. With
a much less number it would not be safe to perform this
journey, as there are hostile tribes of Indians on the way,
viz. the Arickaras, the Crows, and Blackfeet. Mr. Fon-
tenelle kindly offered to accommodate us with such advan-
tages as may be afforded in his caravan. We found
it necessary to leave this place to-day for Liberty, which is
one of the most western towns in the United States. We
were very busily employed in making preparation for the
journey, and in calling upon and bidding farewell to chris-
tian friends. There was a fire last night which destroyed
a very large livery-stable, in which we lost a horse, saddle,
and bridle. The old cathedral which was used for a store-
house, was also burnt, and in it a very large quantity of
crockery.

■■■i-

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ii!

ACCIDENT.

CHAPTER IL '

Leave St. Louis for Liberty — passage up the Missouri-^snagS'^a^walk
on shore — Jefferson city — River scenery — Steam-Boat Siam — Sand
bars — Lexington — Steam-Boat disaster — Liberty — Navahoe Indians
— ride to Cantonment of Leavenworth— amusing dialect— Caravan
commence their journey — first encampment — loway Indiaff^^Black-
snake Hills — Nodaway river — Elk— crossed the Neshnabotana — Rich
soil— rapid rise of the north branch of Neshnabotana — mode of living
— mounds of the west— crossing of the Missouri— Be llevue—Miseion-
aries. , , .

At five o'clock P. M. went on board the steam-boat St.
Charles, Capt. Shellcross, and ascended the river twenty
miles; anchored at the confluence of the Missouri and
Mississippi, and lay by for the night, it being dangerous to
proceed in the night, on account of the many snags and sand
bars in the Missouri.

On the eighth, proceeded up the Missouri by rather slow
progress, and made our first stop at St. Charles, which is
twenty miles above the confluence of this river with the Mis-
sissippi, and the same distance north-west from St. Louis.
Tliis is a pleasantly situated village, upon the north side of
the river. The country around is interesting, and the soil
of superior quality. An enterprising christian population
would make this one of the most desirable places in the
west. Soon after we left the shore, a boy six years old,
fell overboard. The current being swift, and the boat un-
der full way, there was no opportunity to save him. He
was seen floating a short time, but before the yawl could
be loosed from its fastening, and manned, ho sunk and was
seen no more. His mother was a widow, and with her family
was removing from Kentucky to Franklin, Mo. The moth-
er and the children lamented greatly and loudly.

orr

tell

the

voyi

whi(

ing

feet.

JEFFERSON CITY.

am — Sand
le Indians
—Caravan
ns^^Black-
tana — Rich
le of living
I— Mission-

boat St.
sr twenty
ouri and
gerous to
and sand

;her slow
which is
the Mis-
Louis,
side of
the soil
pulation
|s in the
ars old,
oat un-
Ho
1 could
nd was
family
c moth-

Near the middle of the day, on the ninth, we struck a snag
or rock, so deep beneath the turbid water, that we could not
tell which it was, and it became necessary to repair one of
the wheels of the boat, which was much injured. This gave
us an opportunity to go on shore. Several of my fellow
voyagers and myself ascended one of those high bluff f
which frequently skirt this river. This was done by climb-
ing on our hands and feet up an elevation of several hundred
feet. Here we had a delightful view of the surrounding
country, with its intermingled prairie and wood land, its
cultivated spots, and its hills and dales. But in attempting
to return, a new difficulty interposed. I said we ascended
on our hands and feet — could we return in the same way ?
We were compelled, by descending backwards, to use much
caution, and letting ourselves down by the grass, or some-
times by a shrub or tree, and assisting each other, we came
safely to the shore. We also went to a place, some distance
below this, where Lewis and Clark lay by three days, wait-
ing a better state of water. They encamped under a shelv-
ing rock, which is composed of white quartose sand of excel-
lent quality for making flint glass, equal to that found above
Pittsburgh. Saw many wild turkeys along upon the unin-
habited shores.

Stopped, on the 11th, at Jefferson city, the capital of the
state. It is situated on the south side of the river, upon a
high eminence, a little above the Osage river. It has a great
name for so small a place. The state house is of a size which
would be decent for & small academy ; and the govern-
or's house would do very well for a common farmer's house
in the country, but not such as we should expect for a gov-
ernor in Jefferson City. But the state of Missouri is
comparatively new, and this place may in time support its
name.

Sabbath, twelfth, kept in my state room, and endeavored
to observe the day according to the commandment ; thought

■ \

i-'F

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of my family, and imagined I could see them in the morning
in the sabbath school ; and then with the many children and
teachers, enter the sanctuary to enjoy the privileges of
public divine worship. . ^

Monday, passed Boonsville and Franklin, small villages
which have a country of rich land around them, and when
brought under good cultivation, these villages must rise in
importance. The scenery up this river is sufficiently diver-
sified to excite interest and to charm. The trees along the
shores are mostly oak and cotton wood, with some hacberry
and buckeye. The soil is free and rich. The river makes
nothing of washing away and forming islands. Sand bars
and snags are so common, that, by becoming accustomed to
them, we hardly think of danger. It is interesting to see
how easily and how deep the trees take root in the rich soil
along this river. Frequently, where the banks are washing
away, the roots of the trees are exposed to full view, and
generally there is only a large central root descending ten
or twelve feet with small ones branching out, presenting the
appearance of an inverted cone.

Found the steam-boat Siam, Capt. L. at Chariton, on
board of which the St. Charles put her freight and passen-
gers, and returned ; both boats having so far discharged
their freight that one could proceed with what was remain-
ing. Having got under way, the boat run upon a sand bar,
which gave it a sudden whirl about, apparently threatening
a disaster, but the quicksand of which the bar was compos-
ed, soon washed away, and we went ahead again. Run-
ning aground in this river is a very diflTerent thing from
what it would be in most waters ; for the bars are so gener-
ally formed of quicksand, that in most instances the current
around the boat sets all clear.

Soon after getting under way, on the 16th, we ran upon a
bar where we were detained tWo and a half hours, and so
frequently were we upon bars, that we made only five miles

e morning
ildren and
vileges of

11 villages
and when
ist rise in
itly diver-
along the
hacberry
ver makes
^and bars
stomed to
ing to see
3 rich soil
! washing
>^iew, and
tiding ten
ting the

riton, on
passen-
charged
remain,
land bar,
atoning
ompos.
Run-
g from
gener-
current

upon a
and so
miles

A CONTBAST.

before one o'clock P. M. Called at Lexington. The vil-
lage is pleasantly situated one mile back from the landing,
and is surrounded by a fine country. We made only about
fifteen miles headway to-day, which is so slow, that it would
be more pleasant traveling by land ; and also to be free
from imprisonment with such shockingly profane swearers
and gamblers, most of whom are intemperate.

Nineteenth, another sabbath on board the steam-boat.
How great a contrast to the sacredness of the day when it
is enjoyed in the christian family circle ; or in the sanctuary
where God is worshipped in the great congregation ; or in
the quiet, unobtrusive sabbath school, where attentive minds
sit down to study the word of God, that they may do it ;
and where the teachers are heard explaining and enforc-
ing divine truth upon the young and tender conscience.

As we passed along, I saw many children standing on the
banks of the river. I thought how benevolent persons at
the east had desired their religious instruction, and how
much had been done for the enterprise ; but it had failed to
reach these. I also reflected on the examples of infidelity
and vice around them, by which they are educated for de-
struction, and endeavored to ask the Great Benefactor of
all, to do that fcH* them, which it was not in my power to do.
I contrasted in my mind the difference between kindred
souls in sweet communion in the service of God to-day, and
the unrestrained wickedness of ungodly men, which my eyes
and ears were witnessing, and said, when will the kingdoms
of this world become the kingdoms of our Lord and his
Christ.

About the middle of the day, the captain and his men
appeared to be given up to blind infatuation. The Siam
was a new, well-built boat, had four boilers, and it was her
first season* They appeared to regard no bounds in raising
and applying steam. Such was the power under which

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she labored, that she more than trembled. For a long time
I expected some disaster — ^looked at the captain to see if I
could discover any apprehensions of danger. There was
no want of evidence that there was a free use of ardent spir-
its. Soon the disaster came, less extensive than I feared ;
the main shaft, which was large and made of iron, broke,
and all was over as to her going any farther.

Monday, 20. This day was spent in endeavoring to find
some remedy for the disaster, but all to no purpose. It
only remained to discharge her cargo upon the wilderness
shore, let her passengers shift for themselves, and return
with one wheel like a crippled winged fowl. Two miles
above us lay the steam-boat Nelson, upon a sand bar high
and dry. She ran aground upon the sabbath, and being
left by a fresliet in the river, is waiting for another to
take it off. Our captain remarked at dinner to-day, that
most of the accidents, which happen to steam-boats, take
place on the sabbath ; and that he did not believe it would
be long before they would not run on that day. We en-
gaged a man to take us in a wagon to Liberty, and towards
evening went out into a small neighborhood of Mormons,
where we lodged. They had fled from Jackson county, which
they call their promised land, and to which they say they
shall return. They are a poor, deluded people, and when
they speak of their persecutions, they do not imitate the spirit
of our Savior, who^ when he was reviled, reviled not again
and when he suffered, threatened not.

Rode on the 21st, twelve miles to Liberty, through a
very pleasant and fertile country, sparsely inhabited, well
supplied with woods, and sufficiently undulating and hilly to
render it healthy. It was at that opening season of the
year, when nature, arousing itself from the sleep of winter,
appears with renovated beauty. Not or. \- man, but flowers,
and trees, and birds, seemed to enjoy the season and the
scene. I was much charmed with the wood duck, (A.

ong time
) see if I
here was
ient spif'
I feared ;
in, broke,

ig to find

pose. It

wilderness

nd return

wo miles

bar high

ind being

lother to

day, that

>ats, take

1 it would

We en-

I towards

lormons,

y, which

they

d when

he spirit

ot again

[rough a
ted, well

hilly to
of the

winter,
[flowers,
land the

ik, (A.

LIBEBTT.

Sponsa) which here were numerous ; the variety of its col-
ors seemed adapted to the beauty of the scenery which sur-
rounded us. And the sprightly deer did not seem to accel-
erate its movements more by fear, than by love of flight.

Liberty is a small village, situated three miles north of
the river, and is the county town of Clay. Has a court-
house built of brick — several stores, which do considerable
business, a rope-walk, and a number of decent dwelling
houses.

Continued in this place about three weeks, waiting for
the caravan to get in readiness* At this place it forms —
men, horses and mules, and wagons, are collected and put
in readiness ; and from this place commences the long jour-
ney for the west. While we remained here, we had an
opportunity to collect much information from those who
have been to and beyond the Rocky Mountains, in regard to
the country, mode of traveling, and concerning the various
Indian tribes on the way. Saw Capt. Ford and Lieut. Stein
from Fort Leavenworth. They are both professors of reli-
gion, and appear to be well acquainted with the Indian coun-
try. Lieut. S. has been much among the Indians, was
out with the Dragoons the last year — was among the Paw-
nee Picts ; gives a very favorable account of them, and
thinks the way is prepared to establish a mission among
them with fair prospects of success. He also thinks the
way is prepared, or is preparing, for a mission among the
Camanches, who heretofore have been hostile, but now wish
for peace and trade with the Americans. Saw also a Mr.
Vaun of this place, a baptist professor, who has made two
trips to Santa Fe, and has resided two. years in that place.
He gives a very favorable account of the Navohoes, a tribe
who number about two thousand warriors. Their country
lies between the head waters of the Rio Del Norte and tlie
eastern branches of Rio Colorado. They carry on agricuU
ture to a very considerable extent ; have large herds of cat-

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CANTONMENT LEAVENWORTH.

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tie andliorses, and flocks of sheep ; and do much in domes,
•tic manufactures ; and have houses of good construction.
They are friendly to the Americans, but not to the Span,
iards. Mr. V. thinks they would i-eadily receive protestant
•missionaries, and would prefer them to Roman Catholics,
because of their hostility to the Spaniards. He also speaks
well of the Paches, or Apaches, a small tribe on the Del
Norte towards old Mexico. These have been at war three
years with the Spaniards.

Saturday, May 9th, rode twenty-six miles to Canton-
ment Leavenworth, which is situated on the west side of
ihe Missouri river, nearly twenty miles out of the United
States. The way is through a fertile section of country,
{)art of the distance is an open prairie, other parts are hand-
^somely wooded, and all well adapted to cultivation. I had
An introduction to several of the officers, and put up at
liieut. S's. an agreeable and religious family.

I preached three times on the sabbath, and most of
the people of the garrison assembled, and gave good at-
tention. There are a very considerable number of professors
of religion attached to this station, but they have no chap,
lain to teach and lead them in their devotions, which is a
deficiency in our military establishments. Col. Dodge and
some of the other officers appear disposed to maintain good
order, and I should think they exert a salutary influence.
I had an opportunity, before I returned to Liberty, to take
a view of the fort and adjacent country. There is much
here to captivate. The buildings of the Fort are situated
within an inclosure around a large, beautiful square, which
is covered with green grass, and adorned with shade trees.
The whole is on an elevation of a few hundred, feet,. and has
an interesting prospect of the majestic river flowing on si-
lently below. The fertile country around presents a wide
and fine prospect, and when settled by an industrious popu.
lation, will equal the most favored parts of the earth.

'!»^\]!r:-l^«*

SINGVLAH VIEWS.

33i

Liberty, and the country around, is inhabited by people of
considerable enterprise, and when it shall be brought under
christian influence, there will be but a few places more in-
viting. There is but one presbyterian minister in this
county, Rev. J. S, Y. a man of talents and very respecta-
ble attainments, and who is exerting a good influence. The
baptists in this section of country are unlike those of the
east. They are opposed to the benevolent operations of the
day. Elder H. the pastor of the church in this place, in-
vited Rev. Mr. Merril, a baptist missionary, located among
the Otoe Indians of the Platte, and myself, to preach for him
the first sabbath after our arrival. His people objected, for
fear Mr. Merril would say something about the cause of
temperance, or missionary eflTorts, and Elder H. had to
withdraw his invitation. They profess to act from chris-
tian principles in refusing to give their minister any thing
for support, lest they should make him a hireling.

It is amusing to observe the provincialisms which are
common in this part of the country. If a person intends
to commence a journey some time in the month, for instance,
in May ; he says, " I am going in all the month of May."
For a large assembly of people, they say, " a smart sprinkle
of people." The word " balance," comes into almost every
transaction — " will you not have a dessert for the balance of
your dinner ?" — " to make out the balance of his night's rest,
he slept until eight in the morning." If your baggage is
to be carried, it will be asked, " shall I tote your plunder ?"
This use of the word plunder, is said to have originated in
the early predatory habits of the borderers. They also
speak of a " mighty pleasant day" — " a mighty beautiful
flower" — " mighty weak." A gentleman, with whom I
formed some acquaintance, invited me, when I should make
" an outing" for exercise, to call at his house ; for his fam-
ily would be " mighty glad" to see me.

During our continuance in this place, we were hospitably

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JOURNEY RESUMED.

entertained at the house of J, B. Esq. one of the judges of
the county court. We felt under many obhgations to him
and Mrs. B. not only for their liberality, but also for the
privilege of retirement in so kind and intelligent a family.
Nor would we be unmindful of the hospitality shown us by
Rev. Mr. and Mrs. Y.

May fifteenth, all things bein^ in readiness we com.
menced our journey for Council Bluffs, directing our course
north-west. We did not get to-day beyond the boundaries
of the United States, and for the last time, for a long period
to come, 1 lodged in the houfie of a civilized family.

Sixteenth, traveled to-day twenty miles, which brought us
beyond the limits of civilization, and into the Indian coun-
try. Encamped on a prairie surrounded with wood. The
sensations excited by the circumsta/ices of our situation
were peculiar, and such as I had not iKjfore felt : — in a wil.
derness, inhabited by unseen savages and wild beasts, en.
gaged in setting our tent, preparing supper with only a few
articles of furniture, the ground for our chairs, table, and
bed. But all was conducted in good style ; for I would not
dispense with attention t > decencies, because beyond the
'boundaries of civilization ; and having adjusted every thing
in good order, and offered up our evening devotions, we re
iired to rest. But how to adjust all the anxieties and feel
ings of the mind, so as to obtain the desired repose, was aj
more difficult task.

On the 17th, crossed over the east, or little, Platte, which
is a very considerable river, and spent the sabbath with Mr.
Gilmore, a methodic professor, and governmental black-
smith for the loway Indians. Saw many Indians of the
loway, Sioux, and Fox tribes. Among these a Fox Indian
and his wife were noble-looking persons, having their faces
^painted, the man's entirely, and the woman's in stripes, with
/unmixed vermilion. They felt too important to be seen

I! i

INDIAN TRIBES.

IS-

IS.

« 1

e judges ofl
ions to him I
also for the
it a family. 1
lown us by

s we com.j

T our course

boundaries

noticing what was transpiring around/and seemed to tUnk
themselves the only objects to be noticed. Here is an ex-
cellent fertile tract of country, and nothing discouraging
for a missionary station, except the contaminating influence
of vicious white men. They wish to cultivate their land,
j)robably more from necessity than on any other account ;
for their game is mostly gone. One of them came to Mr.
G. to get some ploughs, and remarked, "it is hard work to
dig up our ground for corn by hand." The Sioux here are

long period B^^'^y ^ small band who would not join Black Hawk in his

aily.

1 brought us
ndian coun.
vood. The
ur situation

war against the United States, and who are now afraid to
return to their own country. The condition of these Indi-
ans is becoming more and more wretched ; for while they
have not the knowledge, the means, nor much of the inclina.
tion, necessary to cultivate their lands advantageously, they

. jjj ^ wil-B^ave an insatiable thirst for ardent spirits; and there are

beasts en-B^^^^g^ ^^ unprincipled men on our frontiers, who, for the
1 only a few ■ sake of gain, will supply them with the means of drunkeness
table, and| and destruction.

On Monday, rode only twelve miles to Blacksnake Hills.
Left Mr. G. with kind feelings, and shall gratefully remem-
ber his hospitality. At Blacksnake Hills, Mr. Rubedoux
has a trading post, and an uncommonly fine farming estab-
lishment on the Missouri river. His buildings are on a
small rise of land, having a delightful prospect in front of
more than a thousand acres of open bottom land, lying
along down the river ; and hills on the north and east par-
tially covered with woods. What has not nature wrought
without the labor of man ? The herds of cattle, and other
domestic animals, have as wide a range as they choose, and
fences are only necessary to prepare fields for cuftivation*

The Indians here have a new mode of disposing of their
dead. A scaffold is raised about eight feet high, upon which
the dead are placed in rudely-constructed coffins overspread
with skins.

I would not
beyond the
every thing
ions, we re-
es and feel-
pose, was a

latte, which

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Intal black
s of the
•'ox Indian
their faces

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to be scon

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CROSSING THE NODAWAY.

11 ■ m.

I preferred encamping out to sleeping in the house, where
I might have been subjected to many kinds of annoyances.
Obtained a good supply of milk.

For several days nothing special occurred. On the
twenty-second, we crossed the Nodaway river with a raft ;
to construct which, and get all things over, took most of the
day. To construct a raft, we collect a number of dry logs,
fasten them together, side by side, with barks stripped from
elm trees ; some few men swim across the river, taking with
them one end of a rope, while the other end is fastened to
the raft ; it is then shoved off, the men upon the other
«ide of the river pulling upon the rope. The raft is gener-
ally drifted considerably down stream before it is brought to
land upon the opposite shore. In this manner they cross-
ed, and re-crossed, until the baggage was carried over.
Then follows the swimming over of the horses, which is
attended with noise enough — ^hallooing of men, snorting of
the horses, and throwing sticks and stones to prevent them,
after having gone part of the way over, from returning.

We saw many elk, but they were too wary to be ap-
proached and too fleet to be chased, and our hunters were
not sufficiently successful to obtain any. They are very
large, and when their horns are on, make a very majestic
appearance. We frequently found their horns on the prai-
rie, some of which were four feet long, with large wide-
spreading branches.

Sabbath, twenty-fourth, passed over a brook near which
ive had encamped the evening before, and remained for the
day, while the caravan went on; The movements of the
caravan are so slow, that we felt confident we could over-
take them without any difficulty, and there being no danger
from hostile Indians, we considered it our duty to rest on this
holy day. The day was very warm for May, the thermom.
<eter standing, at two in the afternoon, atB8^

Monday, twenty-fifth, overtook the caravan before night.

CR0SS1K6 THE NESHNABOTANA.

137

Crossed the south branch of the Neshnabotana on a raft.
Some of the men of the caravan, if not all, were much dis-
pleased, because we did not travel with them on the sabbath.
To express their displeasure, they cut some of the barks,
with which the raft they had made was bound together, and
set it adrift. Providentially it did not drift far before it
lodged against a tree, and, witliout much loss of time, we
repaired it and passed over. *

On the twenty-sixth, came to the main branch of the
Neshnabotana, and commenced making a raft, the finishing
of which and crossing took most of the following day. The
soil of this part of the country is rich, and the grass for our
horses excellent ; but there are none here to till the ground,
nor to gather in the ten thousand tons of hay, which might
be made from the spontaneous growth. This part of the
country does not yet answer the end for which it was cre-
ated. The time will come, when a dense population will
cover this country, who will render the sacrifice of pray-
er and praise to our God.

On the 28th, we rode eleven miles and came to the north
branch of the N. After we had made a raft, we had a very
difficult time of crossing. The water was continually and
rapidly rising, and before we finished crossing, the banks
were overflowed to considerable depth ; and the alluvial soil
was rendered too soft to sustain our horses, and they sunk
so deep that they could not get along. After searching for
a long time, a place was found sufficiently hard to bear up
our animals when unloaded. We had to carry our baggage
upon our shoulders about fifteen rods, part of the way in
water mid deep, going forward and returning, until all was
carried to better ground ; and then we had to ride one mile
to the dry prairie in water one and two feet deep. We re-
joiced to find ourselves once more on firm footing. En-
camped by a stream of clear water, which is rare in this

part of the country, and especially at this season of the
4

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MOUNDS OP THE WEST.

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year. The waters of all this portion of country, especially
of the Missouri river and its large tributary streams, are
very turbid, owing to the nature of the soil over which they
pass. A pail full of water, standing half an hour at the
seasons of freshets, will deposit three eighths of an inch of
sediment ; and yet the water, when settled, appears to be of
good quality and healthy.

Our mode of living, from day to day, had already neces-
sarily become uniform. Dry bread and bacon constituted
our breakfast, dinner, and supp?r. Our bacon we cooked,
when we could obtain wood for fire , but when " out of sight
of land," that is, when nothing but green grass could be seen,
we eat our bacon without cooking. A very few of the sim-
plest articles of furniture were sufficient for our culinary
purposes. The real wants of life are few, artificial ones
are numerous.

Thirtieth, drew near to Council Blufis, and passed down
from the high rolling prairie, through a vale two or three
miles long, and a half mile wide, into the rich alluvial, and
widely extended valley of the Missouri, through a section of
country of uncommonly interesting scenery. The mounds,
which some have called the work of unknown generations
of men, were scattered here in all varieties of forms and
magnitudes ; and thousands in number, and perhaps 1 may
say ten thousands. Some of these mounds were conical,
some eliptical, some square, and some were parallelograms.
One group of these attracted my attention more than any
others. They were twelve in number, of conical form, with
their bases joined, and twenty or thirty feet high. They
formed about two-tliirds of a circle, with an area of two
hundred feet in diameter. If these were isolated, who would
not say they are artificial ? But when they are only a
group of ten thousand others, which have as much the ap-
pearance of being artificial, who will presunw to say they
are the work of man ? But if they arc tlie work of art.

MOUNDS OF THE WEST.

and attest the number, the genius, and perseverance, of de-
parted nations whose works have survived the lapse of ages,
we would interrogate the authors ; but no voice replies to
ours. All is silent as the midnight grave. "The mind
seeks in vain for some clue to assist it in unraveling the
mystery. Was their industry stimulated by the desire to
protect themselves against inroads of invaders, or were they
themselves the aggressors ?" * Are they the monuments of
western Pharaohs, and do they conceal treasures which may
yet be brought to light V There is nothing plainer than
that they were never designed as works of defence. But some
whi'e they admit they were not designed for offensive or
defensive operations of belligerent powers, suppose they
were erected as "mausoleums, and that the difference in their
size was intended to convey an idea of the difference in the
relative importance of those whose bones they cover." If
this theory is true, the La Trappe on the Mississippi, which
I had an opportunity of examining on my northern tour,
which is as much as one hundred and fifty feet high, and
covering about six acres, must inclose mighty bones, or
the bones of a mighty monarch. I would not be under-
stood to dissent from the belief, that there are any artificial
mounds in the great valley of the west, but I believe there
is a great mistake upon this subject. It is said, by those
who advocate the belief that they are the work of ancient
nations, that they present plain evidence of this, from the
fact, that they contain human bones, articles of pottery,
and the like, which evince that they were constructed for
burying places of the dead. That some of them have been
used for burying places, is undoubtedly true ; but may it not
be questionable whether they were made, or only selected for
burying places. No one, who has ever seen the thousands
and ten thousands scattered through the valley of the Mis-
sissippi, will ever be so credulous as to believe, that a five
hundredti) part of them are the work of man.

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PAWNEE MISSION.

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Crossed the Maragine river, which, though very deep,
was not so wide, but that we constructed a bridge over it.
Made our way many miles through the rich bottom lands of
the Mirfsonri, and crossed this noble river over against Belle-
vue, in a large canoe, and swam our horses and mules
across, which, considering the width of the river and the
strength of the current, required much effort. Went to the
agency house, where I was happy to find brethren Dunbar
and AUis, missionaries of the Pawnees, under the direc-
tion of the American Board of Commissioners for Forei/rn
Missions. There is a baptist mission here composed of Rev*
Moses Merrill and wife. Miss Brown, and a christian Indian
Avoman, a descendant of Rev. D. Brainard's Indians. Thev
are appointed by the Baptist Board to labor among the
Otoe Indians, about twenty-five miles from this place, on
the river Platte. These Indians are away from their intend-
ed residence, about half the time, on the hunting excur-
sions.

A little more than a half a mile below the agency, the
American Fur Company have a fort, and in connexion with
which, they have a farming establishment and large num-
bers of cattle and horses, a liorse power mill for grinding'
corn, die

ii.

BEAUTIFUL SCENERY.

CHAPTER III.

Continuance at Council Bluffs—interesting scenery— Indian curiosity-
information obtained about several Indian tribes— Spasmodic Cholera
— an Indian chief killed— leave Bellevue far the Black Hills— storm
of rain— heavy thunder storm— Elkhorn river, the country around—
Loups fork of the Platte— manner of encamping— Big Axe, Pawnee
chief— Indian feasting— fourth of July— Messrs. Dunbar and Allis —
thunder storm— Indian ornaments — effects of drunkenness— bite of a
rattle-snake— buffalo seen— Prairie horse-fly— forks of the Platte— want
of wood — swiftness of Antelopes— cUmate— thousands of bufialo —
Badgers — prairie dog— interesting bluffs— old castle — the chimney or
beacon— an alarm- Ogallallah Indians, their lodges— Black Hills.

Continued in this place three weeks, waiting the move-
ments of the caravan, who made slow progress in prepar-
ing their packages for the mountains. During our contin-
uance here, I frequently walked over the hills bordering
upon the west of the valley of the Missouri, to enjoy the
pure air of the rolling prairies, and to view the magnificent
prospects unfolded in the vale below. From the summit of
those prominences, the valley of the Missouri may be traced
until lost in its winding course among the bluffs. Six miles
below, is seen the Papillon, a considerable stream from the
north-west, winding its way round to the east, and uniting
with the Missouri, six miles above the confluence of the
Platte, coming from the west. Tiiese flow through a rich
alluvial plain, opening to the south and south-west as far as
the eye can reach. Upon these meadows are seen feeding
some few hundreds of horses and mules, and a herd of cattle ;
and some fields of corn diversify the scenery. The north
is covered with woods, which are not less important than

the rich vales. But few places can present a prospect

4»

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MISSIONARY PROSPECTS,

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more interesting, and when a civilized population shall add
the fruits of their industry, but few places can be more de-
sirable.

In respect to efforts for the religious instruction and con-
version of the Indians, I am convinced, from all I can learn
of their native character, that the first impressions which
the missionary makes upon them, are altogether important
in their bearings on successful labors among them.^ In
things about which they are conversant, they are men ;. but
about other things they are children, and like children, the
announcement of a new subject awakens their attention,
their curiosity, and their energies ; and it has been remark-
ed by a methodist missionary who has labored among the
Indians, that many seemed to embrace the gospel on its
first being offered, and that those among the adults, who
failed to do so, were rarely converted. If from any mo-
tives, or from any cause, instruction is delayed and their
expectations are disappointed, they relapse into their native
apathy, from which it is difficult to arouse them.

We had an opportunit}^ whilst we continued in this place,
to collect much information about the Indians in the Sioux
country from Maj. P. the agent appointed by government
to tlie Yanktons, a band of the Sioux. He appears to be,
not only intelligent and candid, but also well disposed to-
wards Indian improvement. The following is the substance
of the information, which he gave js in regard to several
tribes to the north and north-wesi, of this place : that the
Omahas are situated upon tlie Missouri, about one hun-
dred and fifty miles above this place, and number-about two
thousand. They have been well disposed towards the
whites, but, owing to their intercourse witli traders and
trappers, and abuses which they have received from them,
they are becoming more vicious in their habits, and less
friendly. And yet, kind treatment would conciliate their
favor, so that there would be nothing to fear, but that tiicre

MISSIONARY PROSPETS.

45?

might be a mission established among them with fair pros-
pect of success.

The Yanktons are an interesting band of the Sioux, of
about two thousand people. Their village is to be located
on the Vermilion river, where it unites with the Missouri
from the north. Maj. P. thinks this would be a very eligi-
ble place for a missionary station, and says, he will do what
is in his power to aid such an enterprise.

The Ponca Indians on the south side of the Missouri, at
the confluence of the L'eau qui coure, number six or eight
hundred, and speak the same language as the Omahas.

The region of country, from the mouth of the Big Sioux
river and that on the south of the L'eau qui coure, as high
as the country of the Mandan Indians, may be classed un-
der the general head of the Sioux country ; and is inhab-
ited by the following bands of Sioux, viz : the Yanktons,
already mentioned, Santas, Yanktonas, Tetons, Ogallallahs,
Siones, and the Hankpapes, who course east and west from
the Mississippi to the Black Hills, and sometimes as far
south as the river Platte. The real number of the relative
bands cannot be correctly ascertained, but probably it is
from forty to sixty thousand. Their habits are wandering,
and they rely exclusively upon the chase for subsistance.
Their principal trade is in buffalo robes. The traders have
for many years maintained a friendly intercourse with them
and generally speaking, they are much attached to white
men.

The Mandans are a much more stationary people than
almost any other tribe in this whole region of country, and
tlie opportunity to establish missionaries among them is
good ; but on account of repeated ill treatment, which they
have experienced, they are beginning to grow suspicious,
and are loosing confidence in white men.

Our stay in this place was protracted much beyond our
expectations. Two weeks after our arrival, the spasmodic

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cholera broke out with a great degree of malignancy. The!
weather was very warm, and there were showers from day
to day. The habits of the men and their accommodations,
probably had a tendency to induce the disease. Three died, |
and undoubtedly many more would have died, had it not !
been for the blessing attending the assiduous attention of
Doct. Whitman, my associate, and the free use of powerful
medicines. And had it not been for his successful practice, I
the men would have dispersed, and the caravan would have |
failed of going to the place of rendezvous. This was plain,
ly seen and frankly acknowledged. God in mercy provided ;
the remedy before he inflicted the scourge. This alarming |
disease was the means of urging our departure from thisj
place sooner than we otherwise should have done. It was]
necessary to move from this place to the prairies, as the)
only prospect of escaping the farther ravages of the dis.
ease. Not a single new case occurred after we re-com.^
menced our journey.

Whilst at Belle vue, a man by the name of Garrio, a half,
blood Indian chief of the Arickara nation, was shot un.
der very aggravated circumstances. Garrio and his family |
were residing in a log cabin on the Papillon river. Six ori
seven men went down to his house in the night, called him]
up, took him away half a mile, and shot him with six balls,
scalped him, and left him unburied. The reason they as. I
signed for doing so, was, that he was a bad man, and had
killed white men. If he was guilty, who authorized them
to take his life ? The Arickara nation will remember this, I
and probably take revenge on some innocent persons. This,
I apprehend, is the way Indian wars are produced. While
we charge the Indians with inveterate ferociousness and|
inhuman brutality, we forget the too numerous wrongs and
outrages committed upon them, which incite them to re-
venge. They cannot apprehend and do justice to such offen-
ders. Or if they could, would it not be published as a gross I

'■'■S

PRAIRIE ENCAMPMENT.

[Indian murder and aggression, and a war of extermination
jcommenced against them. When Indian offences are pro-
jclaimed, we hear only one side of the story, and the other
jwill not be heard until the last great day.

Monday, June 22. After so long delay, we re-commenced
lour journey for the west. The Black Hills are to be our
[next stopping place. The caravan started yesterday. We
[passed over a rich extensive prairie, but so poorly watered,
[that we did not find a stream of water through the whole
{day. In the afternoon we had to ride in a heavy, cold rain,
[in consequence of which I became much chilled. Overtook
[the caravan, and encamped before night on a high prairie,
[where we could find but little wood, and it was diflicult to
[make a fire. We had some coarse bread made of corn,
[and some bacon for supper. The change from the comforts
to the bare necessaries of life was trying ; but when I had
[wrapped myself in my blankets and laid down upon the
[ground to repose for the night, I was comfortable, and felt
[thankful to God for his goodness.

Being now beyond all white inhabitants, in an Indian
[country, and not knowing what the eventful future may un-
[fold, I thought I could give up all my private interests for
[the good of the perishing heathen, if I could be instrumen-
fal of their temporal and eternal welfare. Come life or
ieath, I thought I could say, "thy will be done," Felt
strong confidence, that God would protect and provide for
us, and derived great consolation from the promise, " Lo I
im \vithyou always." The very pelting of the storm upon
)ur tent had something in it soothing, and calculated to ex-
cite the feeling that God was near.

On the 23d, the storm still continued, and we did not rc-
[move our encampment.

Towards noon on the 24th, went forward on our way
md crossed the Papillon river, which occasioned much de-
lay to get our baggage, wagons, and animals over. We diJ

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not find a suitable place for encamping until about sunset i
where we could be accommodated with wood and water ;
and before we could pitch our tent, a thunder storm, which
had been gathering for a long time, came down upon us withj
great violence, accompanied with wind and hail. The ani-l
mals of the caravan fled in different directions, some packed 1
and somie unpacked. I had but just time to unpack my |
mule and let him go, and it was with much difficulty I
could hold my horse, which had become almost frantic un.
der the beating hail, nor did I escape without some contu.
sions. The lightning was very frequent, and the thunder 1
was almost one continual roar. After a while the fury of|
the storm abated, and in the dark we pitched our tent I
and got our baggage into it, but were not able to make a I
fire. We took such supper as we could provide with our|
coarse bread and bacon, without light and without fire, andit
laid ourselves down to rest. During the night there were!
several showers which created rivulets, some of which found 1
their way under our tent. Got a little sleep towards morn,
ing, with which we arose somewhat refreshed.

The morning of the 25th was very pleasant, and afford,
ed a good opportunity to dry our baggage, and for the
caravan to collect together their goods, which were scatter-a
ed over the prairie. After having spent the forenoon inl
drying and adjusting them, we went forward and arrived atl
the Elkhorn, a very considerable river. For conveyance |
over this river, we constructed a boat of a wagon body, sol
covered with undressed skins as to make it nearly water^
tight. The method was very good, and we commenced!
crossing, but night came on before we finished, and there-J
fore we encamped on the east side. The country here is^
excellent, and tolerabl}^ well supplied with wood.

On the 26th, continued carrying over our baggage, and!
got all over half after twelve, after which we traveled tenj
miles up the Elkhorn, and stopped for the night.

■■■:'' . tH

A FRIENDLY MEETING.

On the 27th, arose very early and pursued our journey,
land made good progress until three P. M. when we met
VIessrs. Campbell and Sublette with a small caravan, return-
ling from the Black Hills. When mountain traders meet
mder such circumstance, there must be mutual exchanges of
friendship, more ceremonious and complicated than can be
rone through with in the passing, "how do you do?" The
two caravans encamped, in due form, and at respectful dis-
tance from each other.

Sabbath, 28th. The caravans continued here through
the day. This gave us an opportunity to rest, and to at-
Itend to devotional exercises in our tent.

On the 29th, passed over, and traveled a good distance up
5hell creek. As a traveler, I should be guilty of neglect of
iuty, if I should not give a description of this section of
country, belonging to the Otoes on the east and the Pawnees
)n the west. For about twenty-five miles since we crossed
[he Elkhorn, and between this river and the Platte, which
ire about ten miles apart, there is not a single hill. It is
j-ich bottom land, covered with a luxurient growth of grass,
[o country could be more inviting to the farmer, with only
be exception, the want of wood land. The latitude is suffi-
ciently high to be healthy ; and as the climate grows warm-
er as we travel west, until we approach the snow-topped
lountains, there is a degree of mildness, not experienced
last of the Alleghany mountains. The time will come, and
jrobably is not far distant, when this country will be cover-
Id with a dense population. The earth was created for the
[abitation of man, and for a theatre, on which God will
lanifest his perfections in his moral government among his
loral creatures, and therefore the earth, according to divine
[rediction, shall be given to the people of God. Although
nfidels may sneer, and scoffers mock, yet God will accom-
|lLsh his designs, and fulfil every promise contained in his
rord. Then this amazing extent of most fertile land will

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not continue to be the wandering ground of a few thousand!
Indians, with only a very few acres under cultivation ; noi'
will millions of tons of grass grow up to rot upon the grounc
or to be burned up with the fire enkindled to sweep over the|
prairie, to disincumber it of its spontaneous burden. Thei
herds of buffalo which once fattened upon these meadows
are gone ; and the deer which once cropped the grass have
disappeared ; and the antelopes have fled away ; and shal:
solitude reign here till the end of time ? No : here shal:
be heard the din of business, and the church-going bell shal
sound far and wide. The question is, by whom shall thi
region of country be inhabited ? It is plain that the Indi.
ans under their present circumstances will never multiply
and fill this land. They must be brought under the inflii.
ence of civilization and Christianity, or they will continue
to melt away, until nothing will remain of them but relic:
found in museums, and some historical records. Philan
thropy and the mercy of God plead in their behalf.

We were awakened on the 30th, at the first breaking o;
the day, by the call, "out, out ; gear up your mules." W.
traveled until one o'clock P. M. more than eight hours, wh«?
we halted and breakfasted. We went again on our way.
and came to the Loups fork of the Platte, and stopped foj
the night. Most of the country over which we traveled i(H
day was a rolling prairie. There is nothing in this sectio!
of country to interest the geologist. I did not see a singij
stone, after passing the Papillon to this place, excepting
few small ones in the place where we crossed that streanij
and which, on that account, is called Rock ford. It is oi
of the peculiarities of the dialect of the people in the wcstj
ernmost states, to call small stones rocks. And therefoi
they speak of throwing a rock at a bird, or at a man. Thei
are no forests in these western regions. The meadovi
spread out almost without boimds. There are only her?
and there some clumps of trees ; and the rivers and smalli

:^Mi:

MANNER OP ENCAMPING.

streams are skirted with cotton wood, elms, and willows.
Whatever propriety there once was, there is none now, in
calling the Indians children of the forest. ' ;

The thermometer stood to day, at noon, at 81*^. ' '

Wednesday, July 1st. Rested the last night as quietly
as I should have done in a civilized country and upon a
good bed. Felt cheerful in committing myself to God, to
awake in this, or in the eternal world, as he shall direct.

We have a small tent made of coarse cotton cloth, form-
ing a cone. After setting this, we stow away our baggage
so as to leave a space in the centre, for our lodgings. My
bed is made by first spreading down a buffalo skin, upon
I this a bear skin, then two or three Mackinaw blankets, and
I my portmanteau constitutes my pillow.

We proceeded to-day a few miles up the Loups fork, and
I crossed over at a good fording place, such as we did not ex-
pect to find. The river here is nearly a mile wide. After
going a few miles up the river, we halted fi)r the night.
The manner of our encamping, is to form a lai^e hollow
squcire, encompassing an area of about an acre, having the
river on one side ; three wagons forming a part of another,
coming down to the river ; and three more in the same
manner on the opposite side ; and the packages so arranged
in parcels, about three rods apart, as to fill up the rear, and
the sides not occupied by the wagons. The horses and
mules, near the middle of the day, are turned out under
guard, to feed for two hours ; and the same again towards
night, until after sun set, when they are taken up and brought
into the hollow square, and fastened with ropes, twelve feet
long, to pickets driven firmly into the ground. The men
[are divided into small companies, stationed at the several
parcels of goods and wagons, where they wrap themselves
in their blankets and rest for the night ; the whole however
are formed into six divisions to keep guard, relieving each

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other every two hours. This is to prevent hostile Indians
from falling upon us by surprise, or from coming into the
camp by stealth and taking away either horses or packages
of goods. We were permitted, by favor, to pitch our tent
next to the river, half way between the two wings, which
made our situation a little more retired.

Nothing special on the second. On the third, passed the
village of the Tapage and Republican Pawnee Indians.
These Indians have buildings which appear substantial and
adapted to comfort. Many of the Pawnee Loups came to
us, and received us with great civility and kindness. Big
Ax, their second chief, had charge of this party. He is a
man of dignified appearance, and his countenance is expres.
sive of intelligence and benevolence. He is very friendly
to white men. These Indians were going out upon their
summer hunt, and upon the same route we were pursuing,
and were not willing we should go on before them, lest we
should frighten away the buffalo.

These Indians manifest their friendship in inviting us to
feasts ; and as we may attend a half a dozen in a day with*
out being surfeited, an explanation may not be out of place.
Big Ax gave the first invitation. It is not customary for
those who provide the feast to sit down with their guests ;
therefore. Big Ax and his associates satin dignified silence
on one side of the lodge, while those of us who partook of
the feast, occupied the centre. The daughters of Big Ax
served us on the occasion, and bountifully helped us w ith
boiled corn and beans. Such are their customs, that to
avoid giving offence, we must eat all that is set before us, or
take it away, and Mr. Fontenelle took what remained.—
In the evening we were invited to two others. The first
consisted of boiled corn and dried pumpkins, and the other of
boiled buffalo meat. I took away what remained. "We
•also gave the principal chiefs a feast, setting before them all
the variety which our bacon and coarse bread could furnish,

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CHANGES OF THB BIVEB.

having it in our power to add a dish of coife, of which lux-
ury we partook for this once on our whole journey.

Admidst the uniformity of the prairies, there is some in-
teresting variety. It was interesting to see the various beds
in which the river has run, and which it has forsaken while
it has formed new ones. Formerly, perhaps not a very few
hundred years ago, this river ran a hundred feet higher
than at present ; and it is this process which renders these
rivers so very turbid. The water of Loups fork, however,
comparatively speaking, is quite clear. The botany of this
section of country is very interesting. Since crossing the
Elkhorn, I have noticed nine different species of grass, most
of which are entirely new. The flowering plants are very
numerous and beautiful, and especially the rose, which is
found of almost every hue. Thermometer, at noon, 90°.

July 4th. This is a day of great noise and bustle in the
states. Orators speak of the deeds and achievements of
our forefathers : their audiences catch the spirit of patriot-
ism. Not so with our company. Having almost expatriated
themselves, they had forgotten their nation's birth-day ; and
knowing that their days of indulgence would be seasons of
reveling, I forbore to remind them of it. How suitable
would be a rational religious expression of gratitude to
heaven, instead of the confusion and riot, which are the
common demonstrations of joy on such occasions.

Sabbath, fifth. The caravan went forward a few miles
and encamped. The Indians were constantly calling at our
tent, through the day. It was painful to witness their poor
degraded condition, ignorant of God and salvation, and
for want of a knowledge of their language, not able to point
them to the Savior, nor to teach them their obligations to
their Maker, and their duty to turn to him with their whole
heart, I hope and pray that the Pawnee mission may pros-
per ; that the disposition which Messrs. Dunbar and AUici

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manifest to fro with the Indians and live as they live, may
1x3 followed up, until their teaching and influence are felt,
and the Indians shall locate themselves upon their lands,
under the influence of Christianity and civilization. Thn
mode which Messrs. D. and A. have adopted of going with
the Indians where they go, appears to be the right one, and
must be generally adopted to bring the numerous wander-
ing nations and tribes to the knowledge of Christ. < » •-

It is all important that the missionary be able to speak to
the heathen in the language wherein they were born. It is
also important that the Indians settle down and cultivate
the soil ; but how can they be induced to do this before they
ai*e taught 1 Do any say by an interpreter ? An interpret-
er may be employed for a while, but the missionary must
become, as soon as possible, his own interpreter. And why
can he not learn the Indian language as well as the trader
and hunter ? He can if he will exercise as much self-de-
nial. ■'

' On the sixth, left the Loups fork very early in the morn-
ing in company with the Pawnees, and directed our course
south-west for the Platte river. Towards night we had a
thunder storm with heavy rains, which continued through
most of the night ; but under our tent wo kept dry and
slept so soundly, that we had our meat stolen frmn us with,
out being awaked ; and in our circumstances, though only
about six pounds, it was a sensible loss.

After we came to the Platte, we pursued our way up the
river, which is broad, but not very deep, as its name indi-
cates. The country begins to diminish in its fertility, but
still is very good. We were kept from making the progress
wo might, if tlie Indians would have permitted us to go on
and leave them. The men of the caravan began to And
fault with the delay, and had reason to do so, on account
of the want of food, having nothing to eat but boiled corn,

BIO AX, A PAWNEE CHIEF.

and no way to obtain any thing more before finding buf.

The intellectual powers of these Indians are very good,
but need cultivation. They are fond of ornaments and va-
riety, and not having the means of gratifying their vanity,
as civilized people have, they resort to almost any thing to
decorate their persons; such as porcupine quills, beads,
wreaths of grass and flowers, brass rings upon their wrists,
birds feathers and claws of wild beasts ; the claws of a gria-
zly bear are an ornament of the first order ; and the tails of
white wolves are in high estimation. But their most uni.
versal and particular ornament is painting their faces with
vermilion. • . . . ,-, i.x ' '

These heathen, as all others, are ignorant of the benign
influence of the gospel, and therefore, while they have many
interesting traits of character, they are cruel to their old
men and women. Their women are compelled to do all the
work — the men only hunt and go to war. Having but
few horses, when they journey, thoy pack their old men and
women, and even the blind and lame — and their dogs. I
did not see among these Indians a single person having any
natural defonnity, nor any one who appeared to be deficient
in common sense.

July ninth. To-day Big Ax came to my tent and sat by
me a long time. Never did I so much wish to converse
with any man and tell him about the Savior, and from the
expression of his countenance, I thought he felt the same.
But the gift of tongues was not imparted to me, and we
could only converse with the language of signs, which can
be used far better than I had anticipated.

By Mr. Fontenelle's making a large present to the Indians,

they agreed to let us go on to-morrow without them. Our

men could hardly have been restrained within subordination

if they had not consented.

Towards the night of the 10th, we had an uncommon storm
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of thunder, hail, rain, and wind. The horses and mules
could not be controlled, and they turned and fled in all di-
rections before the storm. The whole caravan was scat-
tered ; but when the storm abated, they were again collect,
ed without much difliculty, and nothing was lost. If any
hostile band of Indians had been about us, it would have
been easy for them to have made us a prey. But the Lord
not only rode upon the storm, but was also near for our de.
fence. The scene was alarming, and yet grand and truly
sublime. " ' ■ >■■ .:

Sabbath, 12th. We are in a land of dangers, but God is
our preserver, and liow desirable it is, that his mercies
should be had in grateful remembrance, and that portion of
time, which he has set apart as holy, should be observed as
such. The caravan traveled a part of the day, but were
under the necessity of stopping in consequence of rain,
which wet their packages. It is worthy of notice, that
there have been various providences, which have thus far
prevented the caravan from traveling much upon the sab-
bath. But this day has been one of great confusion and
wickedness. In consequence of the men being drenched
with rain, whiskey was dealt out freely, to keep them from
taking cold. Most of them became much excited, and one
of the men, who took an active p?Tt in killing Garrio, stab,
bed a man with full intent to have pierced his heart ; but
the knife, by striking a rib, turned aside and only made a
deep flesh wound.

I think I know the feelings of David, when he expressed
a strong desire after the sanctuary of God, and to dwell in
his tnl)ernacle. . >. . ^ . . . -. -» ,.,^

July 13th. Wo are not traveling through forests, nor a
solitary desert, but so far as boundless meadows are con-
cerned, the country has the appearance of being under good
cultivation. Wc see no fields of grain secured from the
beasts of the earth by fences, nor habitations of civilized

PRAIBIie HOfiSS-PLY.

en, but meadows adorned with a great variety of plants,
ome of which appear to be gregarious. Often some acres
are diversified with great variety of colors and species. '•

There are two species of plants which are said to be a

vereign remedy against the poison of the rattle-snake, the
virtue of one of which we had an opportunity of testing.
One of our men was bitten in the foot, and before we knew
his case, the poison had so far progressed, that not only his
foot, but also his leg had become much inflamed and was quite
painful. One of these plants was applied to the parts af-
fected, and at once the man was convalescent, and in a few
hours was well. The plant resembles the blue flag in its
leaves, but differs in having them serrated. Its roots
contain its healing properties, which are pounded and ap-
plied to the affected parts. Rattle-snakes, though common,
are not numerous. These and other reptiles are prevented
from multiplying by the fires, which every year run over
the prairies.

On the 14th, the announcement of buffalo spread cheer-
.. e 3 and animation through the whole caravan, and to
men whose very life depended on the circumstance, it was
no indifferent event. From the immense herds of these
wild animals, dispersed over these beautiful fields of nature,
we were to derive our subsistence. Although several were
seen to-day, yet our hunters were not very successful in ob-
taining many.

I had heard of the prairie hoi*se-fly, but was not aware,
that it would be so very annoying, or, I may say, so very
tormenting to our horses. Its bite is like the thrust of the
point of a lancet, and when the fly is surfeited, or is brush-
ed off, the blood immediately gushes out. When the cara-
van is in close company, there l)cing about two hundred
horses and mules, the number of the flics are so divided that
they are not much felt : but when for any purpose a horse
is separated from the company,^ he is severely tormented

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BUFFALOES, THEIR APPEARANCE.

until he returns. On one occasion, when I rode forward to
find a crossing place over a deep, muddy stream of water, ^
these flies came around my horse in such swarms, that they
put him in an agony, so that he became frantic, and I was
obliged to return in full speed, otherwise I could not have
kept upon my saddle. I have no doubt that a horse left
alone any considerable time in this section of country in
the season of these flies, would be killed. - v^ - -

The next day, we journeyed as usual, and about noon ar.
rived at the Forks of the Platte. We saw a large herd of
buffalo, from which we obtained a good supply of excellent
meat. The buffaloes present, with their shaggy shoulders,
neck, and heads, a very majestic appearance, and if their
natures were unknown, their appearance would be terrific.
But they are timid and inoffensive, showing no disposition
to injure any person, except in self-defence, when wounded J
and closely pursued. Their strength is great ; and although
they look clumsy, they run very swiftly. It requires a
horse of more than ordinary speed, to outrun them for any
considerable time.

The section of country about the Forks of the Platte is
very pleasant, without any high mountains in sight ; but at
a distance beyond the widely extended rich bottom lands,
bluffs of various forms present a picturesque scenery.
The entire want of forests in a large space of country
around, is a disideratum which cannot be easily supplied ;
but probably forest trees might be cultivated to advantage.
Is it not highly probable, that mineral coal will be found
here as well as upon the prairies in the western states ? We
found no wood yesterday, nor to-day, and probably shall not
for some days to come ; and therefore we have been under
the necessity of making our flres with the dry dung of the buf*
falo. The most thoroughly weather-beaten is selected, and
proves to be a better substitute for common fuel than we |
had anticipated. Although we are in the section of coun*

DEFENSIVE PBEPABATIONS.

57r

irv where we had fears of finding the Arickara Indians^
Ihe death of whose chief has been mentioned, and whO'
lave been residing near this place for several months past,,
ret we have seen no Indians since we left the Pawnees. It

supposed they have gone far up the south Fork of the
*latte, to avoid the United States dragoons under thecom-
land of Col. Dodge, who are on their way to find them to
ball them to account for their conduct towards white men,
ind to form with them a treaty of peace. But they intend
|o keep out of the way of the dragoons, and therefore we
jpe to pass unmolested, * "" "• •

We took our course up the north-west Fork of the Platte,
ind towards night encamped upon its bank in our usual
Ibrm, using particular caution to be prepared for an attack
)f the Arickaras, should any of their war parties be about
\s. Every man was required to see that his rifle was in
jood order, and to have a good supply of powder and balls...
^e all slept with our clothes on, so that, if called with the
jntiners fire, we might in less than a moment be ready for
lotion ; but the night passed away in quietude, and at the
irsi; breaking of the day we were awaked with the custom-
iry call of the guide.

Saw, on the 16th, the bufialo in greater numbers, and in^
learer view, than previously. They are less shy than those
fc first found. They are more majestic than the elk, but
jss beautiful. The antelopes, some of which we have seen
)r several days past, are becoming very numerous. They
ire rightly named ; for their speed exceeds any animal I
lave ever seen. Our hounds can do nothing in giving them
\hc chase ; so soon are they left far in the rear, tliat they do
lot follow them more than ten or twenty rods, before they
jturn, looking ashamed of their defeat. Our hunters oc-
casionally take some of them by coming upon them by
Stealth. When they are surprised, they start forward a
irery small space, and then turn, and with high.Iifted heads,

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CLIMATE AND OBJECTS CHANGE.

stare for a fev^ seconds at the object which has alarmed
them, and then, with a half whistling snufT, bound off,
i<eeming to be as much upon wings as upon feet. They re.
semble the goat, but are far more beautiful. Though they
are of different colors, yet they are generally red, and have
a large, fine, prominent eye. Their flesh is good for food,
and about equals venison. « • • > '

Seventeenth. We did not go on our way as early this
morning as usual, being detained by breaking an axeltree
of one of our wagons. The country is more hilly, and the
bluffs in some places come down to the river. Herds of
buffalo are seen in almost every direction, and they are so
numerous, that they have so eaten up the grass, that our
animals find scanty pasture. The thermometer stood at
noon at 88° Encamped a little below Cedar bluffs, so called
from the few cedars scattered over them, which promise a
better supply of fuel.

Commenced our journey on the 18th, at our usual early
hour, to travel on until near noon before breakfast. From
the change of vegetation of various kinds, birds, <kc.
it is evident we are ascending into higher regions of coun-
try, and an atmosphere more resembling that of the New
England states. As we advance, the flowering plants are
becoming less numerous ; and although the middle of the
day is very warm, yet the nights and mornings are more
cool. The ascent is so gradual, that the change is not per<
ceptible. Rocks begin to appear, and still we are far from
the Rocky Mountains. Limestone of a light brown color
is found in the bluffs, laying in horizontal strata, which
might be easily worked, and to any extent. Very small
black gnats, hardly discernable by the naked eye, for some
days past have been numev*ous and very annoying ; and
the bite is very poisonous. ,«. .,

July 20. Thousands of buffalo were seen to-day and
our men amused themselves with chasing and shooting at

BAD6EBS FRAISIE-DOGS;

them ; but it was well for the buffalo that they made poor
shots. I do not feel authorized to sport with animal life,
but I thought it not improper to try my horse in the chase.
He ran very swiftly, was not at all afraid, and would have
run into the midst of them, had I not held him in check.
He appeared to enjoy the sport. I shot one through the
shoulders, which had received a wound, which must have
been fatal. Not at that time being sufficiently acquainted
with such an undertaking, as our guide afterwards said, I
put myself in considerable danger ; for I dismountoH my
horse, to have an opportunity of taking a more stead) aim,
than I could have done upon hi» back. The danger was,
that, if the wounded buffalo had turned upon me, I should
not have been able to have regained my seat upon the sad-
dle, and with the speed of my horse have fled from his pur-
suit. But fortunately he did not rise upon me, and I re-
turned to the caravan unhurt and unconscious of danger.

Badgers inhabit this part of the country, and from the
many holes, which they dig in the ground for their dwell-
ings, they must be very numerous, though we have seen
only a few, and have killed but one. They keep near their
holes, and run into them on the least approach of danger.
It is of the genus ursus, about the size of the marmot, or
what is often called the woodchuck, of a silvery gray color,
with short legs, and in its whole aspect is interesting. I
did not have an opportunity to learn many of its habits.
A small animal called the prairie dog, abounds in this sec-
tion of country. It takes its name, not from its appear-
ance, but from its barking, which is like that of a very
small dog. It is of a brown Cvlor, and its fur is of superi-
or fineness. It is very shy r.nd difficult to be taken. Was
it not for this last circumste nee, I should think it might be
an important article of trafic. ' '" • ' ' ' '*^'

Passed, on the 21st, many uncommonly interesting bluffs
composed of indurated dry ; many of them very high, with

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THE OLD CASTLE.

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perpendicular sides, and in almost every imaginable form,
'^'^me appeared like strong fortifications with high citadels ;
some like stately edifices with lofty towers. I had never
before seen any thing like them of clay formation. And
what adds to their beauty is, that the clay of which they
are composed, is nearly white. Such is the smoothness, and
regularity, and whiteness, of the perpendicular sides and
offsets ; and such the regularity of their straight and curv.
ed lines, that one can hardly believe that they are not the
work of art.

It was a very warm day. The thermometer stood at noon
at 90°, and five o'clock P. M . at 100°. There were no prai.
rie winds as usual. Almost every day winds blow over the
prairies like sea breezes, or trade winds. They generally
commence about eight in the morning, and continue through
the day. These winds render it comfortable traveling, al.
though the thermometer may range high.

Encamped to-day near what I shall call the old castle,
which is a great natural curiosity. It is situated upon the
south side of the Platte, on a plain, some miles distant from
any elevated land, and covers more than an acre of ground,
and is more than fifty feet high. It has, at the distance of
the width of the river, all the appearance of an old enor-
mous building, somewhat dilapidated ; but still you see the
standing walls, the roof, the turrets, embrasures, the dome,
and -^most the very windows ; and the guard houses, large,
and standing some rods in front of the main building. You
unconcio'isly look around for the enclosure, but they are all
swept away by the lapse of time — for the inhabitants, but
they have disappeared ; all is silent and solitary. Although
you correct your imagination, and call to remembrance,
that you are beholding the work of nature, yet before you
are aware, the illusion takes you again, and again your cu*
riosity is excited to know who built this fabric, and what
have become of the by .gone generations. I found it im.

('(In'"

V. *i-

THE CHIMNEY A RUN FOR LiFE.

possible to divest myself of such impressions. The longer
and the more minutely I examined it, the more I saw to
admire ; and it reminded me of those descriptions of power
and grandeur in ruins, of which we have read, of ancient
times and nations.

Encamped at noon of the 22nd, near another of nature's
wonders. It has been called the chimney ; but I should
say, it ought to be called beacon hill, from its resemblance
to what was beacon hill in Boston. Being anxious to have
a near view, although in a land of dangers, I concluded to
take an assistant and pass over the river to it. The river
where we crossed was about a mile wide, shallow and full
of quicksand, but we passed it without any particular dif-
ficulties. We rode about three miles over a level plain, and
came to the base. This distance from the other side of
the river did not appear more than a mile, so deceptive are
distances over plains without any landmarks. This beacon
hill has a conical formed base of about half a mile in cir-
cumference, and one hundred and fifty feet in height ; and
above this a perpendicular column, twelve feet square, and
eighty feet high ; making the whole height about two hun-
dred and thirty feet. We left; our horses at the base, and
ascended to the perpendicular. It is formed of indurated
clay or marl ,and in some parts, is petrified. It is of a
light chocolate, or rufous color, in some parts white. Near
the top were some handsome stalactites, at which my assis-
tant shot, and broke off some pieces, of which I have taken
a small specimen. We descended, and having finished my
survey, had but just mounted our horses, when we saw
two bands of bufl'alo, six or eight hundred in number com-
ing full speed towards us, taking their course down the
river. We knew some body must be pursuing them, and
as, from indications for two days past, we had suspected
Indians near, we thought it would be the safest for us to

make and secure a speedy retreat to the caravan, and set
6

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SCOTT S BLUFFS.

off in haste for the river, which at the nearest point was
two miles distant. Very soon we saw a man on horse.
back coming full speed towards us — he stopped and gave a
signal for others behind him to hasten on, and at once we
saw a band of men coming full rush. We put our horses
to their utmost speed, and when we thought our retreat to
the river fully secured, we stopped and took an observation
with a large spy -glass, which we had taken the precaution
to have with us, and found they were white men, who had
come from a fort of the American Fur Company at the
Black Hills, to meet the caravan. Mr. Fontenelle, the com.
mander of the caravan, saw the movement, was alarmed
for our safety, and came out in all haste, with a number of \
armed men, to our assistance. But all resulted in friends
meeting friends. There were some Ogallallah Indians near
us, who came to our camp in the evening. Thermom-
eter 90°.

On the 23d, after traveling a few miles, we encamped near
Scott's bluffs. These are the termination of a high range
of land running from south to north. They are very near
the river, high and abrupt, and what is worthy of notice,
there is a pass through the range a short distance back from
the river, the width of a common road, with perpendicular
sides two or three hundred feet high. It appears as though
the part forming the bluffs had been cut off, and moved a
few rods to the north. Instead of journeying, the natural-
ist would desire weeks to examine the interesting scenery
of this section of country, and the more minute his exam.
ination the more would his curiosity be gratified.

This whole country appears to abound in magnesia, so
that epsom salts are found in almost every part ; in some
places in large quantites in a crystalized state. Our her-
ses and mules were disposed to make these a substitute for
common salt. Thermometer to day stood at 90°.

While we were encamped at noon of the 24th, and our

'I.

AN ALARM THE OGALLALLAIIS.

liorses and mules were turned out under guard, and we were
preparing our breakfast, or what should be dinner, we were
alarmed with the call, " secure your animals ! secure your
animals !" I looked around to see what was the cause of
the alarm, and saw at about a mile and a half distance, a
considerable number of Indians coming on horse back at
full speed. Wo had not more than half secured our animals
and prepared for defence, when the Indians were close upon
us ; whether friends or foes we could not tell, until they
were nearly within rifle shot, when they, according to cus-
tom, as an expression of friendship, fired their guns into the
air, and then rushed into our camp, and exchanged saluta-
tions of peace. They were Ogallallahs, headed by eight of
their chiefs. They were clad in their war habiliments, and
made somewhat of a terrific appearance. The chiefs dined
with us, were very talkative among themselves ; for, not
having any good interpreter, we could not join in conversa-
tion with them. Every thing, however, went on pleasantly,
and to mutual satisfaction. They told us their whole vil-
lage was only a few hours travel ahead of us, going to the
Black Hills for the purpose of trading.

On the 25th, the heat was very oppressive in the middle
of the day, there not being as much wind as common. Ther-
mometer 92°. Towards evening came to the main village
of the Ogallallahs consisting of more than two thousand
persons. These villages are not stationary, bul move from
place to place, as inclination or convenience may dictate.
Their lodges are comfortable, and easily transported. They
are composed of eight or ten poles about eighteen feet long.
When they encamp, these poles are set up in a circular form,
the small ends fastened together making an apex, and the
large ends are spread out so as to enclose an area of about
twenty feet in diameter. The whole is covered with their
coarse skins, which are elk, or buffalo, taken when they are
not good for robes. A fire is made in the centre, a hole be-

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91 A SABBATH AMONG THEM.

ing left in the top of the lodge for the smoke to pass out.
All that they have for household furniture, clothing, and
skins for beds, is deposited around according to their ideas
of propriety and convenience. Generally not more than
one family occupies a lodge. These are the finest looking
Indians I have ever seen. The men are generally tall and
well proportioned ; the women are trim and less pendulous
than what is common among Indian women, and all were
well dressed, and for heathen, cleanly. They came around
us in multitude?, and manifested great curiosity to see what,
ever we had. 1 did not know why, but my boots were par.
ticularly examined, probably they had never seen any before,
as moccasons are worn not only by Indians, but also by tra.
ders and hunters.

Sabbath, 26th. The caravan moved on a little way to
the crossing place of the Platte, near Larama*s fork in the
IMack Hills, and encamped for the day. This gave us an
opportunity for reading and devotion. Some of the Ogal.
lallahs came to my tent while I was reading the bible, and
observed me so attentively, that I was led to believe that they
were desirous to know what I was doing, and why I was
spending my time in retirement. I endeavored to make
them understand by the language of signs, that I was read-
ing the book of God, which teaches us how to worship him,
and I read to them aloud, and showed them how they must
read, and they pronounced letters and words after me.
When we in this way read the word Lord, I endeavored to
teach them its meaning, and that He is to be worshiped.
After spending some time in these exercises, I sang a hymn,
which greatly interested them. They took me by the
hand, and the expression of their countenance seemed to
say, we want to know what all this means, and why you em.
ploy your time so differently from others ? My spirit was
pained within me, and I anxiously desired to understand
their language, that I might tell them about Christ, the only

•14

CROSSED THE PLATTE.

Savior. The enquiry arose forcibly in my mind, why
will not some of the many christian young men of the east,
exercise so much self-denial, if it can be called self-denial, as
to come and teach them the way of salvation ? Would it
be a cross to be engaged in such heavenly work ? In such
a cross what christian would not glory ? And if there
should be any tribulations attendant on the enterprise,
would they not, like St. Paul, glory in tribulations ?

At evening passed over the Platte, and went a mile and a
half up to the fort of the Black Hills, and encamped near
the fort in our usual form, , .-^

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BLACK HILLS — A MURDEROUS DESIGN.

CHAPTER IV.

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Black Hills — day of indulgence — buffalo danco--fhc desire of Indians
for instruction— met the chiefs in council— re-commenced our journey
for rendezvous — Anthracite coal — species of wormwood — Red Bute-
Traces of grizzly bears — geology — Rock Independence— Rocky Moun-
tains — perpetual snow — valley through the mountains — " thunder spir-
its" gone — an alarm — waters of the Colorado.

The Black Hills. There is nothing in the color of the
soil or rocks to give them this name, but they are so called
from their being covered with shrubby cedars, which give
them a dark appearance when seen at a distance. The al-
liivial soil upon the rivers and in the vallies is very good, but
upon the higher lands and hills, the soil is thin and rather
barren, and in many parts full of stones which are worn
smooth by the action of water, and are of various kinds
and forms. One spur of the Rocky Mountains is seen from
this place, which is forty or fifty miles distant, and is prob-
ably five thousand feet high.

A day of indulgence was given to the men, in which they
drink as much as they please, and conduct as they may
choose. It was found that ardent spirits excited so many
evil spirits, that they may be called legion.

A Mr. G. shot a man by the name of Van B. with the full
intention to kill him. The ball entered the back and came
out at the side. Van B. exclaimed, "I am a dead man ;"
and after a little pause said, "no, I am not hurt." G. on
this seized a rifle to finish the work, but was prevented by
8ome men standing by, who took it from him and fired it
into the air.

Twenty.cighth. The day of indulgence being past* a

BO manv

BUFFALO AND DOG DANCE.

quiet day followed. The exhilaration was followed by con-
sequent relaxation, and the tide of spirits which arose so
iiigh yesterday, ebbed to-day proportionably low. The
men were seen lounging about in listless idleness, and could
scarcely be roused to the business of making repairs and
arrangements, for the long journey yet before us. The In-
dians were active, and manifested a disposition to be socia-
ble and kind, and also to open a trade with us in various ar-
ticles, such as moccasons, belts, and dressed skins ; and
wanted in return knives, awls, combs, vermilion, &c.

Although the nights were cool, yet the thermometer stood
in the middle of the day at 98°, but the heat was relieved
by the customary prairie winds.

On the 29th, the Indians had a buffalo and dog dance.
I witnessed the former, and was content to dispense with
the latter. In the buffalo dance, a large number of
young men, dressed with the skins of the neck and head of
buffalos, with their horns on, moved around in a dancing
march. They shook their heads, made the low bellowing
of the buffalo, wheeled, and jumped. At the same time men
and women sung a song, accompanied with the beating of
a sort of drum. I cannot say I was much amused to see
how well they could imitate brute beasts, while ignorant of
God and salvation. The impressive enquiry was constantly
on my mind, what will become of their immortal spirits?
Rational men imitating beasts, and old gray-headed men
mars^ialling the dance ! and enlightened whites encourag-
ing them by giving them intoxicating spirits, as a reward
for their good performance. I soon retired, and was pleased
to find, that only a small part of the Indians took any part
in the dance.

One of tho men, whom I tried to instruct last sabbath,
came to mo again, and wished mo to instruct him onco
more. Which I did, and endeavored to point him to God ;
and sang the hymn, "Watchman, tell us of the night.'*

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COUNCIL WITH THE SIOUX.

He, and some others with him, shook hands witli me, as a
token of their satisfaction. He went away and brought
others with him, and I went throujili the same exercise
again ; and they again shook hands with me. This was
several times repeated. These Indians appear not only
friendly to white men, but also towards each other. I saw
no quarreling among them. Their minds are above the or.
dinary stamp, and the forms of their pt^'sons are fine-
Many of them arc " nature's grenadiers." The women also
are well formed, their voices are soft and expressive, and
their movements graceful. I was agreeably surprised to
see tall young chiefs, well dressed in their mode, leading by
the arm their ladies. This was not what I expected to sec
amonff " savages." It is true thev are heathen in all the
guilt of sin, and without God in the world, and without
hope ; but in decency and politeness, as well as in many
other particulars, they differ from those Indians on onr
frontiers, who have had more intercourse with bad white
men, and who have had access to whiskey.

On tlie 30th, met in council with the cliiefs of this trilr,
to lay before them the object of our tour, and to know if
they would wish to have missionaries sent among thom to
teach them to read and write, and esj)ccially how to wor.
ship God. They expressed much satisfaction with the pro.
posal, and said they would do all they could to nmke tlioir
condition comfortable. There can be no doubt, tliat tluH
community of the Sioux would be a promising field for la-
borers. They are inquisitive, and their langunge is dis.
tinct and sonorous.

Nothing special occurred on the 31st. Thermometer
stoo«iat81°.

August 1st. At half past eight in the morning, wc re-
commenced our journey, and our next point is across the
Rocky Mountain where th(» general rendezvous will bo held.
Our wagons were left at the fort of the Black Hills, an:i all

ANTHRACITE COAL.

dO*

our goods were packed upon mules. Several of our com-
pany went out into various parts of this country to hunt
and trap, but as many more joined us for the mountains, so
that our number is about as great as it has been. Mr.
Fontenelle stc'{»p.?d at the fort, and Mr. Fitz Patrick took
his place in ciiarge of the caravan. When we called for
our bill, Mr. Fontenelle said he had none against us ; for if
any one was indebted, it was himself, for what Doct. Whit-
man had done for him and his men. We received from hira
and his men many kind attentions, which we shall grate-
fully remember.

Sabbath, 2nd. Had some opportunities for devotional
exercises, but felt the loss of the privileges of God's house.

We found on the 3d but very little grass for our horses
and mules, owing to three causes ; the sterility of the soil,
the proximity to the snow-topped mountains, and the graz-
ing of numerous buffaloes and antelopes. To save tlie dis-
tance of following the bends of the river, we passed to-
day over some rough and somewhat dangerous precipices*
I found to-day, and also before we arrived at the Black
Hills, some specimens of anthracite coal. Mr. Fontenelle
said this was the first discovery of coal in this region of
country. If it should be found in great quantities, it will
supply for fuel the want of wood. There are appearances
of iron ore, and also of volcanic eruptions. A range of
mountains, a spur of which is seen from Larama's fork in
the Black Hills, runs parallel with the river at ten or fifteen
miles distant, and some of the peaks are very high.

August 4th. The country was more level and fertile. I
I discovered more anthracite coal, and a|)pearances which
indicate tliat it may be found in large quantities ; also, in
one place, yellow snnd stone of reninrkal)ly fine texture.
It undoubtedly would answer an excellent purpose for pol-
ishing metals. A wild wormwood grows in great (jiuinti-
lies and very large'In this region, where the soil is gravelly

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GRIZZLY BEARS.

and barren. Some of it grows eight or ten feet high, and
four or five inches in diameter, and is an obstruction to
travehng. It is generally called wild sage. Scarcely any I
animal will taste it unless compelled by extreme hunger, |
The prairie hen crops its buds or leaves, which renders its |
flesh bitter and unpalatable for food. I saw some granite ^
to-day of a dark gray color, like the granite in the At. |
lantic states. What I had seen before in boulders was of j
the red cast, like that which is found about lake Superior;
but very little of this since we left the United States.

On the 5th, we arose at the first breaking of day andj
proceeded on our route, making forced marches through |
this barren region. Encamped towards night at a place I
called the Red Bute, which is a high bluff* of land, of tlie
color of red ochre, but composed of clay somewhat indura.
ted. This is a central place for Indians traveling east or |
west, north or south. Here the north-west branch of the
Platte, along which we have been traveling, comes from a I
southern direction, the head of which is about one hundred
and fifty miles distant. From the Red Bute we pass over
to the Sweetwater, a brunch of the Platte, which comes
from the west, and is remarkable for its purity. We saw|
to-day tracks of grizzly bears, which were perfectly fresh,
One with a large cub passed out of some gooseberry and
currant bushes near the river, as ve proceeded around to anl
open spot of ground for an encamping place. I did not
have an opportunity to see them, but their tracks manifest
them to be frightful. Their strength is astonishingly great.
Lieut. Stien of the dragoons, a man of undoubted veracity,
told me he saw some buffaloes passing near some bushes,
where a grizzly l)ear lay concealed ; the liear with onr
stroke tore three ribs from a buffalo and laid it dead. It
has been said, if you meet one of those Injars, you must
either kill or be killed. It is not so. Unless you come up-
on them suddenly, or wound them, il" you will let them pass

ifl

GEOLOGY.

off unmolested, they will in most cases withdraw, showing
tliat it is trae that tlie fear of man is upon them as well as
upon other beasts.
Sixth. The geology of these regions is becoming more

I interesting, as we draw near the mountains. I saw to-day,
not only considerable granite in situ, but also a considera-

Ible quantity of the most beautiful serpentine I ever beheld,

jit was semi-transparent, and very deep green. I very much
wislicd to take some specimens, but my journey was too long
and too far west. Encamped a few miles east of Rock

I Independence.

Piissed Rock Independence, on the 7th. This is the first

hnassive rock of that stupendous chain of mountains, which
divides North America, and forms, together wiih its bar-

jrens on each side, a natural division. This rock takes its
name from the circumstance of a company of fur traders

Isuspending their journey, and here observing, in due form,

Ithc anniversary of our national freedom. It is an im-
monsly huge rock of solid gneiss granite, entirely bore and

Icovoring several acres. We came to the Sweetwater, which

Ion account of its purily deserves its name. In one place,

jit passes a small braneli of the mountains, through a narrow
cimsm only tiiirty or forty feet wide, and more than three
hundred feet high. The caravan passed around the poiijt of
this mountain, and to obtain a better prospect of this nnt-

|ural curiosity, I left tlicm and rode to it. A deep-toned roar is
iieard as it dashes its way through the rocky passage. The
siwbt is soon intercepted by its winding course and the
darkness caused by the narrowness and deepness of the av-
enue. Passed to-day several small lakes of crystalized ep-
som salt, from which the water in Ibe drouth of summer in
evaporated. 1 rode into one of them to examine the quality

jund depth, but finding my horse sinking as in quicksand, I
was fv|ad to make a safe retreat. Whatever may Ih3 JH'neath,

j wiicthcr salt in a less solid state than on the surface, or

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APPROACH TO THE MOUNTAINS.

quicksand, yet tons, and perhaps hundreds of tons, of good
quality might be easily collected.

The mountains are indeed rocJcy mountains. They are
rocks heaped upon rocks, with no vegetation, excepting a
few cedars growing out of the crevices near their base. |
Their tops are covered with perpetual snow, which are seen s
on our left and before us. As we advanced, the atmosphere ;
was increasingly more chilling through the night and most
of the day, excepting the middle, which to-day was very I
warm ; the thermometer standing at 84°.

Sabbath, 9th. I endeavored to supj)ly the absence of the . |
privileges of the sanctuary and ordinances, as well as 1 .
could b)'^ reading and recalling to mind portions of the scrip.
tures, hymns, and the doctrines of our excellent, but neg.
lected, catechism. One needs to be on heathen ground to
realize the solitariness of absence from the social worship, |
where

" The cheerful songs and solemn vows
Make their communion sweet."

On the 10th, cold winds were felt from the snow-topped
mountains to an uncomfortable degree. The passagt;
through these mountains is in a valley, so gradual in the as.
cent and descent, that I should not have known that we were
passing them, had it not been that as we advanced the at.
mosphere gradually becjimc cooler, and at length we found
the perpetual snows upon our right hand and upon our leti,
elevated many thousand feet above us — in some places ten
thousand. The highest part of these mountains are found
by measurement to be eighteen thousand feet above the level
of the sea. Tins valley was not discovered until some
years since. Mr. Hunt and his party, more than twenty
years ago, went near it but did not find it, though in
search of some favorable passage. It varies in width from
five to twenty miles ; and following its course, the distance

■'.■>

U'i

THUNDER SPIBITS DEPARTED.

through the mountains is about eighty miles, oi four clays'
journey. Though there are some elevations and depres-
sions in this valley, yet, comparatively speaking, it is level.
There would be no difficulty in the way of constructing a
rail road from the Atlantic to the Pacific ocean ; and prob-
ably the time may not be very far distant, when trips will
l)e made across the continent, as they have been made to
the Niagara falls, to see nature's wonders. In passing the
Black Hills and the Rocky Mountains we heard none of those
"successive reports resembling the discharge jf several
j)ieces of artillery," mentioned by some autiiors as common
" in the most calm and serene weather, at all times of the
(lay or night ;" nor did we witness " lightning and thunder,
|H3aling from clouds gathering round the summits of the
hills" or mountains. " The thunder spirits, who fabricate
storms and tempests," appear to have closed their labors,
and the Indian tribes no longer " hang offerings on the trees,
to propitiate the invisible lords of the mountains."

The geology presents some variety ; for while the main
ridge of the mountains are gneiss granite, yet to-day par-
jallcl ridges of red wacke have abounded. These ridges
appear to be volcanic, forced up in dykes, at different dis-
tances from each other, running from east north-east to west
j south-west. The strata are mostly vertical, but some arc a
[little dipped to the south.

We had an alarm, while we were encamped for noon,
I and the men were called to arms. They all rushed forth
full of courage, rather stimulated than appalled by danger.
Only one Indian made his appearance upon the hill, at the
loot of which we were encamped. This was taken as an
indication that others were near, which was the fact ; but
[he and they retreated.

August 11th. The last night was very cold — we had a

I heavy frost with ice. A little before sunrise the thermom-

Icter stood at 24°. Our early morning ride was not very
7

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JADED ANIMALS.

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comfortable for myself, and less so for some of our men
who were not furnished with over-coats. Our horses and
mules began to show that constant labor, without sufficient
food, was not favorable to strength, and some of them failed.
Passed Big Sandy river, one of the upper branches of the
Colorado, which empties into the gulf of California. Along
its banks are some Norway and pitch pine, and a very
few small white pines, and also clumps of common poplar.
In some of the low vales, there were beautiful little fresh
roses, which bloomed amidst the desolations around. *^ How
ornamental are the works of nature ! She seems to deco.
rate them all, as if each spot was a garden, in which God
might perchance walk, as once in Eden." Encamped upon
New Fork, a branch of Green river.

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[(•1 Jli-w/iii:

■■ .. I

<it

THE RENDEZVOUS.

^ / ^' CHAPTER V.

Arrive at rendezvous— trappers and hunters— four Indian nations— Flat-
heads and Nez Perces, no reason why so called— surgical operations —
an interview with the Flathead and Nez Perce chiefs- their anxiety for
religious instruction- -return of Doct.»Whiiman— Shoshones and Uf nws
—mountain life.

On the 12th, we arose at the first breaking of the day,
and continued our forced marches. Although we were
emerging from the mountains., still peaks covered with per-
petual snow were seen in almost every direction, and the
temperature of the air was uncomfortable. I found to-day
some handsome ealcedony, of which I took a specimen ;
and also green stone, quartz, and trap in large quantities.
In the afternoon, came to the Green river, a branch of the
Colorado, in latitude 42°, where the caravan hold their ren-
dezvous. This is in a widely extended valley, which is pleas-
ant, and the soil sufficiently fertile for cultivation, if the
climate was not so cold. It is like the country we have
passed through, an almost entire prairi';, with some woods
skirting the streams of water.

The American Fur Company have between two and three
hundred men constantly in and about the mountains, en-
gaged in trading, hunting, and trapping. These all assem-
ble at rendezvous and bring in their furs, and take new sup-
plies for the coming year, of clothing, ammunition, and goods
for trade with the Indians. But few of these ever return
to their country and friends. Most of them are constantly
in debt to the Company, and are unwilling to return with,
out a fortune ; and year after year passes away, while they
are hoping for better success.

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DOCT. WHITMAN.

Here were assembled many Indians belonging to fourdif.
ferent nations ; the Utaws, Shoshones, Nez Perces, and
Flatheads ; who were waiting for the caravan to exchange
furs, horses, and dressed skins, for various articles of mer.
chandise. I was disappointed to see nothing peculiar in
the shape of the Flathead Indians, to give them their name.
Who gave them this name, or for what reason, is not known.
Some suppose it was given them in derision for not flatten,
ing their heads, as the Chenooks and some other nations do,
near the shores of the Pacific. It may be so, but how will
those, who indulge this imagination, account for the Nez
Perces being so called, since they do not jpierce their no.
ses ? This name could not be given them in derision, be.
cause those near the Pacific, who flatten their heads, also
pierce their noses. That those names are given by white
men, without any known reason, is evident from the fact,
that they do not call each other by the names which signi.
fy either flat head or pierced nose.

While we continued in this place, Doct. Whitman was
called to perform some very important surgical operations.
He extracted an iron arrow, three inches long, from the
back of Capt. Bridger, which he had received in a skirmish
three years before, with tlie Blackfeet Indians. It was a
difficult operation in consequence of the arrow being hooked
at the point by striking a large bone, and a cartilaginous
substance had grown around it. The doctor pursued the
operation with great self-possession and perseverance ; and
Capt. Bridger manifested equal firmness. The Indians
looked on while the operation was proceeding with coun-
tenances indicating wonder, and when they saw the arrow,
expressed their astonishment in a manner peculiar to them-
selves. The skill of Doct. Whitman, undoubtedly made
upon them a favorable impression. He also took another
arrow from under the shoulder of one of the hunters, which
had been there two years and a half. After these opera-

AN INTERVIEW WITH THE CHIEFS.

tions, calls for surgical and medical aid were constant
every hour in the day.

After spending a few days in collecting and digesting in-
formation in regard to this country and the condition of
the people, we had an interesting interview with the chiefs
of the Nez Perces and Flatheads, and laid before them the
object of our appointment, and explained to them the be-
nevolent desires o( christians concerning them. We then
enquired whether they wished to have teachers come among
them and instruct them in the knowledge of God, his wor-
ship, and the way to be saved ; and what they would do to
aid them in their labors. The oldest chief of the Flatheads
arose, and said, he was old, and did not expect to know
much more ; he was deaf and could not hear, but his heart
was made glad, very glad, to see what he had never seen be.
fore, a man near to God, (meaning a minister of the gospel.)
_ Next arose Insala, the most influential chief among the
19 Flathead nation, and said, he had heard, a man near to
God was coming to visit them, and he, with some of his
people joined with some white men, went out three days'
journey to meet him, but missed us. A war party of Crow
Indiana came upon them, and took away some of their hor-
SOS, and one from him which he greatly loved, but now he
forgets all, his heart is made so glad to see a man near to
God. There was a short battle, but no lives lost.

The first chief of the Nez Perces, Tai-quin-watish, arose
and said, he had heard from white men a little about God,
which had only gone into his ears ; he wished to know
enough to have it go down into his heart, to influence his
life, and to teach his people. Others spoke to the same
import, and they all made as many promises as we could
desire.

The Nez Perce and Flathead Indians present a promising
field for missionary labor, which is white for the harvest,

and the indications of divine providence in regard to it are

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I. .♦•■

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DOCT. WHITMAN S PROPOSAL.

plain, by their anxiety to obtain christian knowledge. Talc.
ing the various circumstances under deliberate and prayer,
ful consideration, in regard to th*. fniiajis, we came to the
conclusion, that, though many ocl; ij* liiiportant stations
might be found, this would be one. So desirable did this
object appear, that Doct. Whitman proposed to return with
the caravan and to obtain associates to come out with him
the next year, with the then returning caravan, and estab.
lish a mission among these people, and by so doing, save at
least a year, in bringing the gospel among them. In view
of the importance of the object, I readily consented to the
proposal, and to go alone with the Indians the remainder of
my exploring tour. Dr. Whitman on further consideration
felt some misgivings about leaving me to go alone with the
Indians, lest, if any calamity should befall me, he should be
blamed by the christian public. I told him to give himself
no uneasiness upon this subject ; for we could not go safely
together without divine protection, and with it, I could go
alone. I felt no reluctance to the undertaking ; having a
confidence that the presence of God would go with me, and
that He would in his providence provide for, and protect
me.

Met with the chiefs again by appointment, and had much
the same conversation as before. I stated to them the con.
templated return of Doct. Whitman. They were much
pleased, and promised to assist me, and to send a convoy
with me from their country to Fort Walla Walla on tho
Columbia river. They selected one of their principal
young men for my particular assistant, as long as I should
have need of him, who was called Kentuc ; and I engaged
a voyageur, who understood English, and also Nez Perce
sufficiently well to interpret in common business, and some
of the plain truths of our holy religion, to go with me while
I should continue with these tribes. i ? r >iuHt ^' t '

We did not call together the chiefs of the Shoshones and

A BLOODY COMBAT.

Utaws, to propose the subject of missions among them, lest
we should excite expectations which would not soon be ful-
filed. We were more cautious upon this subject, because it
is difficult to make an Indian understand the diflerence be.
tween a proposal and promise. The Shoshones are a very
numerous nation, and appear friendly. They are probably
most destitute of the necessaries of life of any Indians west
of the mountains. Their country lies south-west of the
south-east branch of the Columbia, and is said to be the
most barren of any part of the country in these western
regions. They are often called Snakes and Root Diggers,
from being driven to these resorts to sustain life ; and parts
of the year they suffer greatly from hunger and cold. —
They are more squalid than any Indians I have seen ; but
their poverty does not lessen their need of salvation through
Christ. The Utaws are decent in their appearance, and
their country, which is toward Santa Fe, is said to be tol-
erably good. ' .'•..-

A few days after our arrival at the place of rendezvous,
and when all the mountain men had assembled, another day
of indulgence was granted to them, in which all restraint
was laid aside. These days are the climax of the hunter's
happiness. I will relate an occurrence which took place
near evening, as a specimen of mountain life, A hunter,
who goes technically by the name of the great bully of
the mountains, mounted his horse with a loaded rifle, and
challenged any Frenchman, American, Spaniard, or Dutch-
man, to fight him in single combat. Kit Carson, an Amer-
ican, told him if he wished to die, he would accept the chal-
lenge. Shunar defied him — C. mounted his horse, and
with a loaded pistol rushed into close contact, and both al-
most at the same instant fired. C.'s ball entered S.'s hand,
came out at the wrist, and passed through the arm above
the elbow. S.*s ball passed over the head of C. and while
he went for another pistol, Shunar begged that his life might

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HOUNTAIN LIFE.

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be spared. Such scenes, some times from passion, and
some times for amusement, make the pastime of their wild
and wandering life. They appear to have sought for a
place where, as they would say, human nature is not op.
pressed by the tyranny of religion, and pleasure is not awed
by the frown of virtue. The fruits are visible in all the
varied forms to which human nature, without the restraints
of civil government, and cultivated and polished society,
may be supposed to yield. In the absence of all those
motives, which they would feel in moral and religious soci.
ety, refinement, pride, a sense of the worth of character,
and even conscience, give place to unrestrained dissolute,
ness. Their toils and privations are so great, that they
are not disposed to take upon themselves the labor of climb,
ing up to the temple of science. And yet they are proficients
in one study, the study of profuseness of language in their
oaths and blasphemy. They disdain common>place phrases
which prevail among the impious vulgar in civiUzed coun>
tries, and have many set phrases, which they appear to have
manufactured among themselves, which they have commit,
ted to memory, and which, in their imprecations, they bring
into almost every sentence and on all occasions. By vary.
ing the tones of their voices, they make them expressive of
joy, hope, grief, and anger. In their broils among them-
selves, which do not happen every day, they would not
be ungenerous. They would see " fair play," and would
*' spare the last eye ;" and would not tolerate murder, unless
drunkeness or great provocation could be pleaded in extco*
uation of guilt.

Their demoralizing influence with the Indians has been
lamentable, and they have imposed upon them, in all the
ways that sinful propensities dictate. It is said they have
sold them packs of cards at high prices, calling them the
bible ; and have told them, if they should refuse to give white
men wives, God would be angry with them and punish thcni

'■"'.■JJV-I'^

PREPARATIONS FOR A JOURNEY,

lon, and
heir wild
ght for a
s not op.
not awed \
in all the ( |
restraints
1 society, I
all those
ious soc!.
jharacter,
dissolute,
that they
r of climb,
proficients
re in their 1
ce phrases
ized coun*
par to have
e commit,
ley bring
By vary-
)res8ive of I
ong theni>
ivould not
ind would
er, unless
in exten*

eternally : and on almost any occasion when their wishes
have been resisted, they have threatened them with the
wrath of God. If *hese things are true in many instances^
yet from personal observation, I should believe, their more
common mode of accomplishing their wishes has been by
flattery and presents. The most of them squander away
their wages in ornaments for their women and children.

The Indians, with whom I was to iravelj having appoint-
|ed the 21st to commence their journey for their country, a
few days were occupied in writing to my family, the Amer-
iican Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, and
other friends ; and also in making preparations for my jour-
jney to Walla Walla. While we continued in this place,
I though in the middle ot the day it was warm, yet the nights
\ were frosty, and ice frequently formed.

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DEPARTURE OF DOCT. WHITMAN.

CHAPTER VI.

Part with my associate-— arrive at head waters of the Columbia— kind-
ness of the Indians— narrow defile— geology— Jackson's Hole— wild
flax — trappers go out on a hunt — mountain prospect— Trois Tetons-
danger from aflrighted buffalo— Pierre's Hole— Volcanic chasm--
children on horseback — interesting worship with the Indians— bunai
of a child— scarcity of food— a timely supply— Salmon river— expecitd
battle— geological observations— scene of mourning.

August 21st, commenced our journey in company witli[
Capt. Bridger, who goes with about fifty men, six or eighi[
days* journey on our route. Instead of going down on!
the south-west side of Lewis* river, we concluded to tak?,
our course northerly for the Trois Tetons, which are three!
very high mountains, covered with perpetual snow, separai
tod from the main chain of the Rocky Mountains, and arrj
seen at a very great distance ; and from thence to Salmoi
river. Went only about three miles from the place of ren
dczvous, and encamped.

On the 22d, I parted with Doct. Whitman, who return.
cd with the caravan to the United States. My anxioui
desire was, that t'ho Lord would go with him and make liii
way prosperous, and make him steadfast to the object oij
Ills return, until it should be accomplished; and that, wit
next year's caravan, ho might come with associates int
this promising field, and they together reap a plentiful liar
vest. To-day wo traveled twenty miles, throu-^h a soiw
what barren country, and down soverai steep descents, am
arrived at what is called Jackson's Hole, and encamped u
on a small stream of water, one of the upper brandies o:
the Columbia river. It was interesting to find mysolf,
the first time, upon the waters of this noble river. The In

PUBLIC WORSHIP.

dians were very attentive to all my wants — took the entire
care of my packed animals, cooking, «kc. They preserve
particular order in their movements. The first chief leads
the way, the next chiefs follow, then the common men, and
after these the women and children. The place assigned
me was with the first chief.

Found some buffalo to-day, of which our men killed a
small number. These were a timely supply, as our provis-
ions were becoming scarce. The principal chief of the
Flatheads kindly furnished me with a horse to relieve mine.

Sabbath, 23d. Had an opportunity for rest and devo-
tional exercises. In the afternoon we had public worship
with Captain Bridger's company, who understood English,
The men conducted with great propriety, and listened with
attention. I did not feel any disposition to upbraid them
for their sins, but endeavored affectionately to show them,
that they are unfit for heaven, and that they could not be
happy in the employments of that holy place, unless they
should first experience a great moral change of heart by
the grace of God, since the only source of happiness in
heaven consists in serving and glorifying God for ever and
ver. The place of our encampment was such as would
naturally fill the mind with solemnity — just above a very
deep and narrow defile which we had to pass, called by the
hunters Kenyan. So high were the mountains, that some
|of them were tipped with perpetual snow, and so narrow the
passage, that twilight shades obscured the view. The dis-
tance through must occupy more than a half day's journey.

Arose very early on the 24th, and commenced our way
through the narrow defile, frequently crossing and re-cross-
ing a large stream of water which flows into the Snake
river. The scenery was ^-ild and in many parts sublime —
mountains of rock almost perpendicular, shooting their
heads up into the regions of perpetual snow, and in one
place projecting over our path, if a zigzag trail ccn be call-

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A DANGEROUS PASS GEOLOGY.

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ed a path. Often we Imd to pass over the sides of moun.
tains, which incHncd at an angle of 45° foward the atrcani
of water below, and down which packed rnules have fallen,
and were dashed upon the rocks. I endeavored to guide niv
Indian horse so cautiously, that he became unmanageable,
being resolved to have his own method of choosing the way,
I was under the necessity of dismounting and make the
best of my way along. But on farther acquaintance with
Indian horses, I learned that their dashing mode of going
ahead, even in dangerous places, was preferable to the most
cautious management of the American.

Geology. For some miles there was graywacke in
ridges or dykes, at equal distances of six or eight r«ds apart,
and from six to ten teet wide, rising but little above the sur.
face of the earth, running from the south-east to the north,
west ; laying in strata dipping to the west at an angle of
60°. After some distance we came to a red mountain of
similar character, excepting that the strata dipped to the
east, at an angle of 40°. In one place where the strata of
rocks and earth were in waves nearly horizontal, a section
a few rods wide, of a wedge form, had its waving strata in
a perpendicular position, as though the mountain had been
rent asunder, and the chasm filled with the perpendicular
wedge. A great diversity of the strata of rocks and earth
prevailed in every part. Towards the last part of the way
through this narrow defile, we came to what ajipeared to bo
magnesian limestone, stratified, of a brown cobr, and very
hard. As we passed on, we come to dark brown gypsum,
like the gypsum found in the western part of the state ot
New York. Here, for some distance, I was much annoyed
with the strong scent of sulphuretted hydrogen, and soon saw
at the foot of the mountain under the bed of gypsum a
large sulphur spring, which sent up as much as thirty gal.
Ions of water per minute. Around this spring were large
quantities of incnisted sulphur, and so strongly is the wa.

KINDNESS OF THE NATIVES.

(cr saturated, that it colors the water of the river, on the
jiitle next to the spring, a greenish yellow lor more tlian a
mile below.

We passed more wooded land to-day, than all before since
we left Rock Independence ; among which is Norway pine,
balsam fir, double spruce, and common poplar — some low
cedar and mulberry shrul)s, and various species of slirubbery
wiiicii are not found in the United States. The Indians
were very kind, and seemed to vie with each other to sec
which could do the most for my comfort, so that tliey more
timn anticipated my wants. Two little girls brought me
ii quart of strawlnirries, a rare disli for the season of the.
vear. And an Indian brought me some service borries,
wiiich are pleasantly sweet, and somewiiat resemble whortle-
l)crries. We encamped upon a fertile plain, surrounded by
jnountains, where three years before three men weze killed
l)y a small war party of Hlackfeet Indians. There were
seven of the white men, and when they saw the Black feet,
they all fled in different directions, and by so doing euibol-
dcned the Indians to the pursuit. Had they stood firm and
combined, it is probable they would have escaped unip a t.

We traveled four hours on the 2.jtli, to another brand' of
Lewis' or Snake river, and encamped in a large pleasant val-
ley, commonly ciilk^d Jackson's large Hole. It is fertile and
well watered with a branch ^f Levis' river coming from tiie
soutb-^ lat, and another of conieiderable magnitude, coming
from the east north-east, which is the outlet of Jackson's
hke, which is a very considerable body of water laying
hack of the Trois Tetons. There are also many very large
springs of water oi uncommon clearness, which issue from
liie foot of tho surrounding mountains. 'J'his vale is wel-
supplied with grass of excellent quality, which was very
grateful to our horses, and nudes, and the avidity with
which they helped themselves seemed to say, they would be
remunerated for past depri\ations.

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WILD FLAX — A HUNTING PARTY— TRACTS.

Flax is a spontaneous production of this country. In
every thing, except that it is perennial, it resembles the fla;
which is cultivateii in the United States — the stalk, th(
bowl, the seed, tiic blue flower, closed in the day time am
open in the evening and morning. The Indians use it lor
making fishing nets. Fields of this flax might be managot
by the husbandman in the same manner as meadows foi
hav. It would need to be mowed like jrrass : for the root
arc too large and run too decj) into the earth, to be pulled a
ours is, and an advantage, which this Mould have, is, tha
there would be a saving of ploughing and sowing. Is it nc
worthy of the experiment of our agricultural societies ?

Kcntuc, my Indian, brought me to-day some very gooi.
currants which were a feasl in this land. There are sev.
oral species, yellow, pale red, and black. The yellow aniJ
pale red were the best flavored.

Wc continued in this encampment three days, to give
our animals a i opportunity to recruit, and for Captain
Bridger to fit and send out several of his men into tin
mountains to hunt and trap. When I reflected upon the
probability, that I should not see them again in this work',
and also that most of them would never return to their
friends again, but would find their graves in the mountains,
my heart was pained for them, and especially at tlieif
thoughtlessness about the great things of the eternal world.
I gave each of them a few tracts, tor which they appeared
grateful, and said they would be company tor them in their
lonely hours ; and as thoy rode away, I could only lit't up
my heart for their safety and salvation.

A\ hile wo continued here, I took an Indian and went up
to the top of a very high mountain to take a view of tin
scenery around. The prospect was as extensive as the eye
could reach, diversified with mountains, hills, and j)laiiis.
Most of the mountains were covered with woods, but llie
hills and plains were ( overed with grass, presenting Ic's of

bright gr

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A MOUNTAIN PROSPECT A PRESENT.

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brit^ht green, however, than might be expected, if the sum-
mers on this side of the mountains were favored with rains
as on the east. The Rocky Mountains at the east, present-
ed the appearance of an immensely large bank of snow, <»r
large luminous clouds skirting the horizon. The Tr^is
Tetons were in full view, and not very far distant at the
north. They arc a cluster of very high pointed mountains,
not less than ten thousand feet, rising almost perpendicularly,
and covered with snow ; five in number, but only three of them
are so very high as to be seen at a great distance, and th(^re-
forc take the above name. Here I spent much time in look-
ing over the widely extended and varied scenery, sometimes
filled with emotions of the sublime, in beholding the tower-
ing mountains ; sometimes with pleasure in tracing the
windings of the streams in the vale below ; and these sen-
sations frequently gave place to astonishment, in view ing
the courses in which the rivers flow on their way unobstruct-
ed by mountain barriers. After some hours occupied in
this excursion, I descended to the encampment, much grat-
itied with what I had seen of the works of God. The soil
n this valley and upon the hills, is black and rich, and the
lime will come, when the solitude which now prevails, will
l)e lost in tlic lowing of herds and bleating of flocks, and
the plough will cleave the clods of these hills and vales ; and
from many altars will ascend the incense of prayer and
praise. Tai-quin-wa-tish took mc to his company of horses
and gave mc one in token of his friendship, and probably
not without the motive to enlist me in their favor. The
horse was finely made, and of the beautiful color of inter-
mixed cream and white.

On the 2Sth, removed camp, and passed over a mointaln
so high, that banks of snow were but a short distance from
our trail. When we had ascended two-thirds of the way,
a nnmbt;r of buflalo, which were pursued by our Indians.
cmwa rushing down the side of the mountain through the

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J'lERRE S HOLE,

ini(I«t of our company. One ran over a Iiorsc, on the back
of wliich was a child, and threw the child far down tlie de.
scent, hut it providentially was not materially injured.—
Another ran over a packed horse, and wounded it dee})ly in
the shoulder. The butiiilo are naturally timid, yet wiien 11
tiiey have laid their course, and by being affrighted are run.
ning at full speed, it is seldom they change their direction,
let what will be presented.

I noticed nothing particularly new in geology, excepting
upon the highest parts of the mountains granite of very
light color. Our descent was through woods more dcMiso [
tiuin those on the other side, and the most so of any since
we left "the waters of the Missouri. Many parts of the do.
scent wore of almost impassable steepness ; and part of tlio
way down a rough, deep ravine, in which a stream of water
commences and increases iVom springs and rivulets to con.
siderabie magnitude, and winds its way through the valley
of Pierre's Hole ; in the upper part of which we made our
encampment among willows in the prairie vale.

On the 29th, removed our encampment, and traveled live
hours along this valley to the place, where two years before,
two fur companies held their rendezvous. Pierre's Hole
is an extensive level country, of rich soil, and well watered
with branches of Lewis' river ; is less frosty than any j)arl
we have gone through this side the rocky chain of moun,
tains. The valley is well covered with grass, but like most
otiier places is deficient in woodland, having only a scant\
supply of cotton-wood and willows scattered along tlie
streams. Tiic valley extends around to tlie north-west, as
i'ur as the eye can reach. Wc expected to have found but'
falo in this valley, but saw none. As parties of Blackt'eel
warriors often range this way, it was probable they had
lati'ly been here and frightened them away. As we were
on our way from our last encampment, I was shown the
l^lace where the men of the fur companies, at the time of

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BRUTAL CONDUCT OP WHITE MEN.

the back

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nade our

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their rendezvous two years before, had a battle with the
Blackfeet Indians. Of the Blackfcet party there were about
sixty men, and more than the same number of women and
children ; of the white men in the valley, there were some
few hundred who could be called into action. From the
information given me, it appeared that these Indians were
on their way through this valley, and unexpectedly met
about forty hunters and trappers going out from rendezvous
to the south-west on their fall and v/inter hunt. The Indi-
ans manifested an unwillingness to fight, and presented
them tokens of peace; but they were not reciprocated.
The Indians who come forward to stipulate terms of peace
were fired upon and killed. When the Indians saw their
danger, they fled to the cotton. wood trees and willows which
were scattered along the stream of water, and taking the
advantage of some fallen trees constructed as good defence
as time and circumstances would permit. They were poor-
ly provided with guns and still more poorly with ammunition.
The trappers keeping out of reach of their arrows, and be-
ing well armed with the best rifles, mado the contest unc-

! qua], and still more unequal, when, by an express sent to
rendezvou*, they were re-inforced by veterans in mountain
life. The hunters, by keeping at a safe distance, in the

I course of a few hours killed several of the Indians, and aU
most all their horses, which in their situation, could not be
protected, while they themselves suffered but small loss.
The numbers killed on both sides have been diflferently sta-
ted, but considering the numbers engaged, and the length of
time the skirmishing continued, it could not have been a
hloody battle ; and not much to the honor of civilized
Americans. The excuse made for forcing the Blackfeet
into battle is, that if they had came upon a small party of
trappers, they would have butchered them and seized upon
the plunder. If heatlien Blackfeet would have done so, is

this an apologv for civilized white men to render evil for

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THK TEX C0MJIAND3IE.\TS.

evil ? Wliat a noble opportunity thrrc was for our Amcri.
can citizens to have set an cxainple ot' humanity.

AVhen the night drew near, the hunters retired to their
encampment at the place of rendezvous, and the Indians
made their escape. Thus tlic famous battle of Perre's Hole-
began and ended.*

Had worship this evening wi^In lihe chiefs and as many
as could assemble in one of their lodges, and explained to
them the ten commandments — and after showing them their
bins by their transgression of God's holy law, pointed tlieiii
to the JSavior, and endeavored to make them understand
the way they can be saved. My method of instructing
them was to give to the first chief the first commandment,
by repeating it, until he could repeat it ; and the second
commandment to another chief in the same way, and so on
through the ten, with directions for them to retain what
was given to each, and to teach them to their people ; and
the same manner was pursued with other parts of divine
truth ; informing them, that at our next assembling, I shall

♦ Since my return, I have scon an account of this battle, written by a
prnphic hand, in all the fascinating style of romance, representintj the
Indians as having entronchrd themselves in u svi-amp, so densely woodi-d
as to be almost impenetrable ; and there they kept the trapjpers at bay,
untj) they were re-mforced from rendezvous. VVnen the Blackfeet saw
the whole valley alive with horsemen rushing to the field of action, they
withdrew into the daik tangled wood. When the leaders of the several
hunting parties came into the field, they urged their men to entei the
.^wamp, but they hung back in awe of the cfismal horrors of the place,
regarding it impenetrable and full of danger. But the leaders would not
be turned from their purpose — made their wills, appointed their execufors
— grasped their rifles, and urged their way through the woods. A brisk
fire was opened, and the Blackfeet were completely overmatched, but
would not leave their fort, nor offer to surrender. The numerous veteran
mountaineers, well equipped, did not storm the breastwork, even when
the Blackfeet had spent their pov.'d(!r and balls, but only kept up the
bloody battle by occasional firing during the day. The Blackfeet in the
night effected tneir retreat ; and the brave mountaineers assembled thtir
forces in the morning, and entered the fort icithout ojrposition.

With those who have st-en the fii'ld of battle, the glowing description,
drawn out in long detail, looses its interest; for although I saw it, yet I
did not see the dense woods, nor a swamp of any magnitude any where
iicar.

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A

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VOLCANIC CHASM.

cxaniiiie tlicm to see if tlicy rightly understood, and retained
>vliat I committed to each. And on examination, in no
case did I find more tlian one material mistake. I also
found that they took much pains in communicating divine
instruction one to another.

In this place I parted with Captain Bridger and his party,
who went north-west into the mountains to their hunting
ground, but ground which the Blackfeet clnin», and for
which they will contend. The first chief of the Flathead's
and his family, with a few otiicrs of his people, went with
Captain Bridger tliat they might continue within the range
of huflalo through the coming winter.

Tiie Nez Perccs, and witii them the Flatheads, with whom
I go, take a north-west dirocti^ jr Salmon river, beyond
wliicli is their country. Our encampment for the sabbath
Mas well chosen for safety against any war parties of
Blackfeet Indians, near a small stream of water which runs
through a volcanic chasm. We had passed this, which is
more than one hundred feet deep, and in most places per-
pendicular, and encamped on the west side of the chasm,
uith a narrow strip of wood around on every other side.
Here was a passage made for the water by Jirc, The cour-
ses, which are formed for the rivers, as forcibly prove the
creating and directing hand of God, as the design manifest,
cd in the organic part of creation ; and I would as unwil-
lingly account for the positions of mountains, and vallies,
and the channels of rivers, by natural phenomena, without
including the power and design of God, as for the formation
of plants and animals. It is true, there is more minute
and curious organization in the one than there is in the
other, but in both the wisdom and power of God are mani.
fcst. Took much satisfaction in reading the epistle to the
Hebrews to-day, and especially the part which explains the
priesthood of Christ ; and also in committing myself and
family, the churcli, and world of mankind, to God. It wt\s

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CHILDREN ON HOBSEBACE.

pleasant to reflect on the promises, that the kingdoms of
this world shall become the kingdoms of the Lord, and of
his Christ, and he shall reign for ever ; and the time will
come, when all shall know the Lord, and God shall be mer-
ciful to their unrighteousness, and the! ; sins and iniquities
He will remember no more.

Monday, 31st. While the Indians were packing and pre.
paring to leave this encampment, I went and examined this
volcanic chasm. It is of great length, at least several miles,
and narrow considering its depth ; formed with basalt in
columns in many places, and in others of amygdaloid.
Found many large and interesting specimens of pure obsid.
ian, or volcanic glass— ^much lava and vitrified stones. I
took some small specimens. In the vicinity around, there
was clink stone in great abundance, which, when struck by
the horses hoofs, gave a metallic sound very audibly. The
soil is black, and appears to be formed of decomposed lava,
and is covered with very nutritious grass.

The Indians are very kind to each other, and if one meets
with any disaster, the others will wait and assist him. Their
horses often turn their pack, and run, plunge and kick, un.
til they free themselves from their burdens. Yesterday a
horse turned his saddle under him upon which a child was
fastened, and started to run, but those near hovered at once
around with their horses so as to enclose the one to which
the child was attached, and it was extricated without hurt.
When I saw the condition of the child, I had no expectation
that it could be saved alive. This was the second case of
the same kind which occurred since I had been traveling
with these Indians. They are so well supplied with horses
that every man, woman, and child are mounted on horse,
back, and all they have is packed upon horses. Small chil.
dren, not more than three years old, are mounted alone, and
generally upon colts. They are lashed upon the saddle to
keep them from falling, and especially when they go asleep

>■%

A EECONCILIATIOX.

which they often do when they become fatigued. Then
thfv recline upon the horses shoulders ; and when they
awake, they lay hold of their whip, which is fastened to
the wrist of their right hand, and apply it smartly to their
horses ; and it is astonishing to see how these little crea-
tures will guide and run them. Children which are still
younger, are put into an encasement made with a board at
the back and a wicker work around the other parts, covered
with cloth inside and without, or more generally with dress-
ed skins ; and they arc carried upon the mothers' back, or
suspended from a high nob upon tlie fore part of their sad-
dles.

As we recede from the mountains the climate becomes
warmer. We encamped upon another tributary of the Co-
lumbia. Tai-quin-wa-tisii, the principal chief of the Nez
Perces, came to me and requested me to meet in his lodge a
number of their people w^ho had separated, husbands from
I tlicir wives, and wives from their husbands, and explain to
them what God has said upon the subject. I readily con-
sented, and was the more pleased with the proposal as it
was without any suggestion from myself, but the result of
Ills own reflections after what I had before said in explain-
ing the ten commandments. When they were assembled,
I read to them and explained what God has said about the
duty of husbands to tlieir wives, and of wives to their hus-
bands; and of the duty of parents to their children, and
children to their parents. I commented upon the subject,
and told them, that when they marry, it nmst be for life.
They all but two agreed to go back to their ft)rmer husbands
and wives. It was interesting to see that they are ready
to put in practice instructions as soon as received. The
chief said they wish me to instruct them in all that God
lias said ; for they wish to do right. After I left them,
tht^y stayed a long time in the lodge of the chief, which
was near my tent, and I heard them conversing on the sub-

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FEARS OF AN ENEMY.

ject until I went to sleep, which was at a late hour. They
all shake hands with me when service is closed, and say the
instruction is " tois" (good.)

Tuesday, September 1st. We pursued our journey to-day
only about four hours. Crossed Henry's Fork^ which is
another branch of Lewis' river, and is itself a river of con.
siderable magnitude, about twenty rods wide in this place,
and fordable only when the water is low. After proceed-
ing a few miles down on the north side, we encamped at an
early hour in a place upon the bank of the river, well sur.
rounded by cotton.wood with a dense growth of shrubbery.
Fears of meeting a war party of Blackfeet Indians, were in.
creased by seeing three Indians pass who were not known.
Some of our chiefs went through our encampment and ha.
rangued the people, the object of which was to be prepared
for defending themselves against an attack, should any ene.
mies appear. We were mercifully pi*eser\ed in safety
through the night, and arose on the morning of the second
and went on our way, and performed a journey of twenty,
two miles over a very barren section of country. The sur.
face is composed of quartose sand, intermixed with disin.
tegrated amygdaloid, basalt, and obsidian. In some places
were large excavations, plainly indicative of ancient volca.
noes, which had not formed anything conical around them,
but had spread out their melted contents in a level plain ot
hard lava, or amygdaloid. In some places there were con.
ical rocks of different magnitudes at the base and of differ,
ent height — none perhaps over the diameter of three rods at
the base and sixty feet high. They were universally divi.
ded in the centre, as though an explosion had taken place
after they were hardened. At some distance from us were
some very interesting hills, rising in high cones some hun.
dred feet — two of them, I should judge to be not far from
three thousand feet. I did not have an opportunity of ex.
amining them.

INVITATION TO FORT HALL.

We arrived at a small branch of the Salmon river, whiclx
was the first water we found through the day, and upon
which was good grass for our horses. Here, after encamp,
ing, Kentuc, my Indian, caught me some excellent trout,
which was a very grateful change of food.

We traveled on the 3d, four hours and a half, over a
barren tract as yesterday, on which there is no vegetation
except wormwood, which grows very large. We found no
water until we came to the place of our encampment, which
was by a marshy vale, through which a small stream runs
very sluggishly. We found no wood excepting willows
and wormwood in this and our last encampment Thermom-
eter, at noon, 65°.

We traveled on the fourth, five hours, and encamped upon
a stream of water, in Cote's defile, which comes out of the
mountains and is lost in the barren plains below. Cote's
defile passes through a range of high mountains, some of
the tops of which are covered with snow. Most of the
day was uncomfortably cold — some snow-squalls. Ther-
mometer, at noon, 54°.

Received a letter from Fort Hall containing an invitation
from Mr. A. Baker to spenu the winter with him ; but the
object for which I have passed the Rocky Mountains requir-
ed me to pursue my tour, and if possible to reach the Pa-
cific Ocean, and to return to Fort Vancouver before winter.
We providentially learned that a large band of Nez Perces
was a few miles below us, and would come to us to-morrow.
The Indians had become almost destitute of provisions, but
to-day they killed a few buffalo.

The morning of the 5th was very cold. We continued
in our encampment to-day, to give the band of Nez Perces
an opportunity to join us, and about the middle of the day
they came ; the principal chief marching in front with his
aid, carrying an American flag by his side. They all sunp
a march, while a few beat a sort of drum. As they dreW

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P' '.•

CHARLE, A NEZ TEKCE CHIEF.

near, tliey displayed columns, and made quite an imposing
appearance. The women and children followed in the rear.
Tai-quin-wa-tish, and our other chiefs arranged their people
in the same order and went out to meet them ; and when
we had approached within ten rods of each other, all halted,
and a salute was fired in which I had to take the lead.—
They then dismounted, and both bands formed into single
file, and meeting, shook hands with each other in token of
love, and to express their joy to see one come among them
to teach them things pertaining to God and salvation. Tlic
principal chief of the other band, who is called Charle, and
who is the first chief of the Nez Perce nation, is a good.
looking man, his countenance rather stern, intelligent, and
expressive of much decision of character. 1 never saw joy
expressed in a more dignified manner, than when he took
me firmly by the hand and welcomed me.

In the afternoon I took Kentuc and rode five miles to see
a prominence of interesting appearance, which I found to
be a mass of volcanic rocks. It is detached from the main
mountain, stands on a plain upon the east side of Cote's de-
file, is about a mile in circumference at the base, and rises
up abruptly, having most of the west side perpendicular.
It is more than two hundred feet high, has a level horizon-
tal summit of eighty rods long north and south, and twenty
rods wide. It furnishes plain evidence of having been fused
and thrown up by subterranean fires.

In the evening I met with the chiefs and as many as
could assemble in a lodge, and explained to those whom I
had not seen before, the object of my mission. Charle, the
first chief, arose and spoke very sensibly for a considerable
time — mentioned his ignorance, his desire to know more
about God, and his gladness of heart to see one who can
teach him ; and said, " I have been like a little child, feel-
ing about in the dark after something, but not knowing
■what ; but now I hope to learn something which will be

A SANCTUARY IN THE WILDERNESS.

substantial,'and which will help me to teach my people to do
right." I told them to-morrow would be the sabbath ; and
explained to them the nature of the institution, and their
obligation to remember and keep it holy. They expressed
their desire to obey, and said they would not remove camp,
but attend to the worship of God. Providentially there
came to us this afternoon a good interpreter from Fort
Hall, so that to-morrow we can have public worship.

Sabbath, 6th. Early this morning one of the oldest
chiefs went about among th^ people, and with a loud voice
explained to them the instructions given them last evening ;
told them it was the sabbath day, and they must prepare for
public worship. About eight in the morning some of the
chiefs came to me and asked where they should assemble.
I asked them if they could not be accommodated in the wil-
lows which skirted the stream of water on which we were
encamped. They thought not. I then enquired if they
could not take the poles of some of their lodges and con-
struct a shade. They thought they could ; and without
any other directions went and made preparation, and about
eleven o'clock came and said they were ready for worship.
I found them all assembled, men, women, and children, be-
tween four and five hundred, in what I would call a sanctu-
ary of God, constructed with their lodges, nearly one hun-
dred feet long and about twenty feet wide ; and all were
arranged in rows, through the length of the building, upon
their knees, with a narrow space in the middle, lengthwise,
resembling an aisle. The whole area within was carpeted
with their dressed skins, and they were all attired in their
i)est. The chiefs were arranged in a semicircle at the end
which I was to occupy. I could not have believed they had
the means, or could have known how, to have constructed
[ so convenient and so decent a place for worship, and es-
pecially as it was the first time they had had public wor-
ship. The whole sight, taken together, sensibly aflbctod
9

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AN INTEBESTIN6 AUDIENCE.

me, and filled me with astonishment ; and I felt as though it
was the house of God and the gate of heaven.

They all continued in their kneeling position during sing.
ing and prayer, and when I closed prayer with Amen, they
all said what was equivalent in their language, to Amen.
And when I commenced sermon, they sunk back upon their
heels. I stated to them the original condition of man as
first created ; his fall, and the ruined and sinful condition of
all mankind ; the law of God, and that all are transgressors
of this law, and as such are exposed to the wrath of God,
both in this life and the life to come ; and then told them of
the mercy of God in giving his son to die for us ; and of
the love of the Savior, and though he desires our salvation,
yet he will not save us unless we hate sin and put our trust
in him, and love and obey him with all our heart. I also
endeavored to show them the necessity of renovation of
heart by the power and grace of the Holy Spirit. Told
them they must pray to God for the forgiveness of their sins
and for salvation. They gave the utmost attention, and
entire stillness prevailed, excepting, when some truth arrest.
ed their mind forcibly, a little humming sound was made
through the whole assembly, occupying two or three se*
conds. -' .■'" -'-" ... ' " -I, ..' V , •";„'•. <i : '^ --"■ i . - -,. ; ,;

I never spoke to a more interesting assembly, and I wouldl
not have changed my then audience for any other uponi
earth ; and I felt that it was worth a journey across tbel
Rocky Mountains, to enjoy this one opportunity with these!
heathen who are so anxious to come to a knowledge of God. I
I hope, that in the last day it will be found, that good wasi
done in the name of Jesus. If christians could have wit-
nessed this day's service, they would have felt, and they
would be willing to do something adequate to the conversion|
of these perishing souls.

An Indian boy about sixteen years old, who belonged tol
the band who joined us yesterday, died this morning. Hel

A FUNERAL HOSPITALITY.

was speechless when he was brought here. We attended
his funeral in the afternoon. They buried him in a very
decent manner, without any heathen rites, excepting that
they buried with him all his clothes and blankets. I ad-
dressed the people at the grave upon the subject of the res-
urrection and of the judgment. This was entirely new to
them and very interesting. Tai-quin-w&,.tish came to my
tent toward evening, and said, what I had said was " tois,"
it was spiritual, and now he knew more about God. After
I had gone to rest they sent for me to meet with them again
in one of their tents.

Monday, 7th. We traveled five hours to-day. The Indians
make but slow progress in traveling with their village. It
takes them a long time to pack and unpack, to set and take
down their lodges. This is, however, of but little conse-
quence to them ; for wherever they are, it is their home.

They are very kind, and manifest their kindness in an-
ticipating all, and more than all, my wants, which they have
the power to supply. They consult me upon all their im-
portant business, and are very ready to follow my counsels.
They are attentive to furnish little comforts. If the sun
shines with much warmth into my tent, they will cut green
bushes and set them up for shade. A few days since, we
encamped where there were some very fragrant plants of a
species of mint, and the wife of Tai-quin-W£t-tish with a
few other women collected a considerable quantity, rid
strewed them in my tent.

Passed to-day mountains of volcanic rocks and over a more
rich, black soil, where we found a good supply of grass for
our horses at night.

Pursued our journey, on the 8th, as usual. Felt some
soreness in my breast, arising from a cold, which began yes-
terday. My health thus far on the journey has been very
good. '

The Indian mode of living is very precarious, and yet they

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100

SCARCITY OS PROVISIONS — TIMELY SUPPLY.

are not very anxious about the future. When they have a
plenty, they are not sparing ; and when they are in want,
they do not complain. The Indians at this time were al.
most destitute of provisions, and we were approaching the
Salmon river mountains, to pass over which occupies be.
tween twelve and fifteen days, and in which there are no
buffalo and scarcely any other game. I felt a prayerful
concern for them, that God would send them a supply be.
fore we should get beyond the range of buffalo, and was
confident that we should experience the truth of God's word,
that he provides for all their meat in due season ; and as
the cattle upon the thousand hills are his, so he would not
withhold from these Indians a supply of their need.

Continued to pass basaltic mountains ; and also passed
some very white marl clay, which the Indians use for cleans,
ing their robes and other garments made of dressed skins.

Their mode of doing this is by making it into a paste,
and rubbing it upon the garments, and when it becomes
dry, they rub it off, which process leaves the garment soft,
clean, and white. We encamped to-day where they had
before made an encampment a lilt! i below a steep bank.
Near night I was alarmed by shouts of Indians and a general
rush up the bank. I hastened up and saw great numbers
running towards our camp. It proved to be a foot race,
such as they frequently exercise themselves in, for the pur.
pose of improving their agiUty. . .^

September 9th, more unwell. To-day we unexpectedly
saw before us a large band of buffalo. All halted to make
preparation for the chase. The young men and all the
good hunters prepared themselves, selected the swiftest
horses, examined the few guns they had, and also took a
supply of arrows with their bows. Our condition was such,
that it seemed that our lives almost depended upon their sue-
cess. And while they were preparing, I could not but lift
up my heart in prayer to God, that he would in mercy give

THE CHASE.

101

them judgment, skill, and success. They advanced towards
the herd of buffalo with great caution, lest they should
frighten them before they should make a near approach ;
and also to reserve the power of their horses for the chase,
when it should be necessary to bring it into full requisition.
When the buffalo took the alarm and fled, the rush was
made, each Indian selecting for himself a cow with which
he happened to come into the nearest contact. All were in
swift motion scouring the valley — a cloud of dust began to
arise — firing of guns and shooting of arrows followed in
close succession — soon here and there buffalo were seen
prostrated ; and the women, who followed close in the rear,
began the work of securing the valuable acquisition ; and
the men were away again in pursuit of the fleeing herd.
Those in the chase, when as near as two rods, shoot and
wheel expecting the wounded animal to turn upon them.
The horses appeared to understand the way to avoid danger.
As soon as the wounded animal flies again, the chase is ve-
newed, and such is the alternate wheeling and chasing un-
til the buffalo sinks beneath its wounds. They obtained be-
tween fifty and sixty, which was a signal mercy.

It was interesting to see how expertly the Indians use the
bow and arrow, and how well the women followed up the
chase, and performed their part in dressing those buffalo
which were slain. After traveling six hours to-day, we en-
camped in a good place on the eastern branch of Salmon
river, where it is of considerable magnitude. The pain in
my breast changed and seated in my head, on the right side.

On the 10th, my health was no better, and I was obliged

to resort to medicine. I could say with the Psalmist, " I

laid me down and slept; for thou art with me." We did

not remove to-day, for it was necessary for the Indians to

dry their meat by what is called " jerking." The process is

to cut the meat into thin pieces, an inch thick, and to spread

it out upon a fixture made with stakes, upon which are laid
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102

A LOOKOUT FOR ENEMIES.

poles, and upon these cross sticks ; an(' then a moderate fire
is placed beneath, which partly smokes, cooks, and dries,
until it is so well freed from moisture, that it can be packed,
and will keep without injury almost any length of time.
Here we made preparation for the remainder of my journey
to Walla Walla, which will probably occupy about twenty
days.

September 11th. To-day the most of the Nez Perces
and Flatheads left us to continue within the range of buf.
falo, that they might secure a larger store of provisions be.
fore winter, leaving, however, about one hundred and fifty to
go with me towards Walla Walla. Before they left us, I ex.
perienced another token of their regard in a very valuable
present of twenty very fine buffalo tongues, which are a
great delicacy, together with a large quantity of dried meat.
I reciprocated the kindness by making such presents as
were in my power to bestow — among which was a britania
cup to the first chief, which he highly valued, and some
writing paper, requesting that this last article might be pre,
sented to those missionaries, whom I had encouraged him
to expect next year. - *v

After traveling three hours, we encamped upon the same
branch of the Salmon river, to give the Indians an oppor-
tunity to dry their meat more thoroughly. '

Pursued our journey, on the 12th, down the eastern branch
of Salmon river five hours. The valley through which
this river runs is generally fertile, and varies from one to
three or four miles in width, but as we advanced toward the
Salmon river mountains, the mountains upon each side in.
creased in height and converged towards each other. They
presented some noble prospects. It is a custom with Indi.
ans to send out numbers of their best hunters and warriors,
in different directions, to see what they can discover ; and
especially when they are apprehensive any enemies may bo
near. We had evidence, from tracks recently made, that

PREPAHATIONS FOR THEIR RECEPTIOX.

103

Indians of some other nation, or tribe, were about us ; and
therefore more than usual numbers of our men were flank-
in"- and ahead. On the banks of the river down which we
were traveUng, there was a dense growth of willows, ex-
tending, however, only a few rods into the bottom-lands.
About two in the afternoon, we were all very much alarmed
to see our men, who were out as hunters and guards upon
tlie hills, running their horses full speed, in an oblique direc-
tion towards us. Two of them were our principal chiefs.
We knew that they had discovered something more than or-
dinary, but what we could not conjecture. Being in a
country where war parties of Blackfeet Indians often range,
our thoughts were turned upon danger ; and soon our fears
were increased by seeing on the sides of the mountains at
our left, clouds of dust arise, and in the obscure distance
were seen men descending as swiftly as their horses could
run. They were so far off that we could not determine
who they were. At the same time our two chiefs on the
hills halted and made signals, which we did not understand.
In addition to this, some of the Indians said they saw Blacks
feet Indians in the willows, not far off, between us and the
chiefs ; and our belief was confirmed that it was so, by two
deer rushing from the willows towards us, and when they
saw us, instead of returning, they only declined a little
to the left, and passed before us. These enquiries arose in
my mind : Why have the chiefs halted ? Do they see en-
emies between us and themselves ? Are their signals to give
us warning of danger ? What so frightened the deer that
they rushed out towards us ? We were all halted, and had
made what preparation we could for battle. As we did not
know in what part of the willows to make the attack, we
were waiting for our enemies to commence the fire, and
were expecting every instant to have their balls poured in
upon us. It was a moment of awful suspense. We sent
out a few men upon an eminepce to our right, to see what

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104

DISPOSAL OF THE SLAIN.

they could discover, and they soon returned without having
seen any enemies. The two chiefs upon the hills who were
now joined by those who rushed down the mountains, and
who proved to be some of our own men, applied their whips
to their horses, and in full speed came to us ; and Charle,
the first chief, rode up to me, and smiling, reached out his
hand and said, " cocoil, cocoil," (buffalo, buffalo.) Thus
ended the battle ; and the remainder of the day was spent
in killing and dressing buffalo, which was far more pleas.
ant than fighting Blackfeet Indians. This made a desira.
ble addition to their stock of provisions. We encamped in
this place, which supplied a plenty of good grass for our
horses, and where ther^wasno want of fuel. . .

The inflammation in my head still continued with throb.
bing, pain, and fever — my pulse one hundred a minute,
Bled myself again nnd took medicine. Thermometer, at
noon, 73°. : ' < . . •

Sabbath^ 13th. My health no better, and my strength
was failing. I felt that all was right, and that I needed this
trial to lead me to an examination of my spiritual condi.
tion, my motives in engaging in this mission, und whether |
I could give up all for Christ to promote his kingdom in the
world, I thought I could surrender all into the hands of
God, my soul to my Redeemer, and my body to be buried by |
these Indians in this desert land. I felt as though it was
desirable to finish my tour, and return and make my report,
and urge the sending of missionaries into this field, which
is white for the harvest ; and to the bosom of my family
and friends ; but still I would not have any will of my own,
but say the will of the Lord be done. These Indians perse
vere in their kindness, and are very respectful, and ready te
obey as fast as I can impart to them instruction ; and they
say that what I say to them is different from any thing they
have ever heard, being spiritual, and that they wish to have
Sueapo (American) teacliers. If the American churches

11''

PETRIFIED STUMP.

105

will not send them teachers, criminality must rest upon
I them for disobedience to Christ's authority. Are there any
lieathen more anxious than these to be taught the way of
salvation, and where there are so few hindrances to the in-
troduction of the gospel ? The; have no idols, no sacrifi-
ces, no power of caste to combat : and as yet not the de-
1 structive influence which exists upon the frontiers.

September 14th. Re-commenced our journey, and pro-

Iceeded five hours down the river, and stopped a few miles

above the main branch of Salmon river, which comes from

'the south, and has its origin in two small lakes in the moun-

I tains north of Henry's fork.

For some distance on our way, on the l')th, the mountains
I came down near the river, rendering the valley through
hviiich it runs, narrow. Some of these mountains termi-
luate in high bluffs, which in many places present uncom-
Imonly interesting strata. The lowest presented to view was
|white marly earth, about twenty feet in depth, nearly hori-
zontal, and somewhat indurated ; upon this a green strata
)f about four feet thickness ; next a strata of brown of about
ten feet ; upon this a strata of red about the same depth
)f the green ; over this a mould of decomposed lava. This
[marly earth slightly effervesces with acid. The rocks in
most places are basalt — in some places very fine wackc.
[Noticing some unusual appearances in the condition of the
earth near the foot of the mountains, on the left, I rode to the
[place, and found a cluster of volcanic eruptions, which,
[though ancient, appeared more recent than any I liad seen.
[a little way down the descent into one of the craters, I
found a petrified stump, standing in its natural position ; its
roots and the grain of the wood entire. I think it was ce-
[dar, and about eighteen inches in diameter. This stood, un-
[doubtcdly, upon what was the natural surface of the earth,
[and the mound above and around was thrown up by volcan-
|ic tires. While time is mouldering the lava into dust, the

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106

SCENB OF MOURNING.

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wind is scattering it over the country around, to renew the
soil which was destroyed by the great conflagration, which
once fused this whole region of the setting sun. This pet.
rifled stump, found in this position, proves that this country, I
which now is so destitute of wood, was once far better sup.
plied, if not covered with forests. Does not this fact over-
throw many of the theories of the formation of the great I
prairies of the west? From various sources of evidence, it |
is plain that these prairie regions were once far better suppli.
ed with wood than at present, and also that the present sup. |
ply is constantly diminishing.

Passed, to-day, a place which presented a very mournful I
scene, where two years ago thirty Nez Perce young men,
who were killed by the Blackfeet, were buried. They
were all active young men, going out upon some expedition,
the nature of which I could not learn. They had not gone|
but a little way from the village which encamped here, when,
passing through a very narrow deflle on a small stream (i\
water, walled up on both sides with perpendicular rocks, the!
Blackfeet Indians, who had way .laid them, attacked them I
from before and behind, and killed all but one, who mountedl
a horse belonging to the Blackfeet and rushed his way
through the opposing enemy. After the Blackfeet Indians
had retired from the place of slaughter, the Nez Perces
brought away the dead bodies and buried them in this place.
According to their mode, they buried with them their clothes,!
blankets, and buflTalo robes, in graves only about three feet
deep, putting Ave or six bodies in a grave. Some time af-
ter this, the Blackfeet Indians came and dug them np, and
made plunder of their blankets and whatever they thought
worth taking; The Nez Perces, some time afterward, caroe
this way and collected their bones and buried them again.
The graves in which they were first buried, were open
when we passed, and fragments of garments were lyingl
about. Here my Indians halted, and mourned in silence

SCENE OF M0UBNIN6.

107

over their slaughtered sons and brothers. The whole scene
was very afTecting, and I could not but long for the time
to come) when they shall settle down in a christian com-
munity, and cease from their dangerous wanderings ; and
also that the gospel may soon be sent to the Blackfeet
Indians, and that they may imbibe its spirit of peace on
earth and good will toward men. After some time spent in
reflections and solenm mourning, we left the place and pro-
ceeded down the river, and encamped near Bonneville's
Fort, which he has abandoned and which is situated in
a small pleasant vale. This place would be favourable for
fur business, was it not that it is on ground where conflict,
ing tribes often meet.

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108

SALMON RIVER.

■?• I

CHAPTER VII.

•»:;m

Salmon river and mountains— chiranies—forest trees, new species of
pine — geology — sulphur lake— a rare animal — new species of squirrels
and pheasant — came to the Lewis branch of the Columbia — ferryman
— Basaltic formation — fine climate— arrive at Walla Walla.

... ■ . - I • - 1 . ■ . i ■ ■- - - - , t'*-^ i ' •

Salmon river is a beautiful transparent stream; its
shores are covered with pebbles from primitive formation.
In less than a mile from us, upon the mountain on our left,
not far up the mountain is a location of mineral salt, which
I saw, which is pure and crystalized. I saw some whicli
the Indians procured, the quality of which is good. I was
anxious to go and visit the spot, but was suffering too mucli|
from the inflammation in my head, and weakness which re-
sulted from its continuance.

Took an observation of latitude, and found it to be 44"^ I
41'. And after passing down the river two hours in a
north-west direction, we entered into the mountains, leav.
ing Salmon river on our left. And the river literally pass,
ed into the mountains; for the opening in the perpendicular
rocks, two or three hundred feet high, and up these mount,
ains several thousand feet high, was wide enough only fo;
the river to find a passage. It flowed into the dark chasm,
and we saw it no more. During the two hours ride, before
we entered the mountains, the scenery was grand. While
there was some level bottom-land along the river, in every
direction mountains were seen rising above mountains, and I
peeks above peeks, up to the regions of perpetual snow.
These mountains are not so much in chains, as of a conical
form, with bases in most instances in small proportfon to
their height. So much sublimity and grandeur, combined

l|) ■; • 9' 'i

THE CHIMNEYS.

109

with so much variety is rarely presented to view. The ge-
ology was mii'^h as in days past. Horizontal strata as yes.
terday, v:ith interchanges of white, green, red, and brown ;
and in one place, for more than a mile in length, a vertical
tVont was presented, facing the south-west, ^f one hundred
I and fifty, and two hundred feet high, resting upon a base of
cont^lomerated rock. The stones of which are round, of
primitive origin, cemented with marly clay, petrified, and of
tlie various colors already mentioned. The opposite side of
I the river is studded with dark basalt.

After leaving the Salmon river, and going through some
(narrows on a small stream of water coming from the north-
Icast, we came to a more open space, and to what I called
the chimneys, standing near the base of a mountain. There
{were thirty or forty of them, appearing very much like
stone chimneys of log houses, between ten and forty feet
ligh. They are composed of conglomerated rock, of a
somewhat slaty form, which makes them appear the more
like the work of men. From this place we turned more
l^vesterly, and passed a high mountain, parts of which were
rery steep, and encamped in a valley by a stream of crys-
tal water.

On the 17th, we pursued our jouwiey over high moun-
[ains, which, in some places, were intersected by deep ra-
iines very difficult to be passed. Encamped in a grove of
large Norway pines.

September 18th. The villages of Indians make slow pro-
gress in traveling, and being desirous to expedite my jour-
bey to some of the posts of the Hudson Bay Company,
took ten Indians and went forward, leaving the remain-
Ber to follow on at their leisure. We ))assed over a moun-
lain more than six thousand feet high, which took more
|lian half a day to arrive at the summit. These mountains
ire covered with woods, excepting some small proportional

parts which are open and furnish grass for our horses.
10

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110

THE ELASTIC PINE.

The woods are composed mainly of fir, spruce, Norway
pine, and a new species of pine. Tiie leaves of this new
species resemble those of pitch pine, growing in bunches at
the ends of the limbs, being shorter and smaller ; the bark
and the body of the tree resembling the tamarack, the wood
firm and very elastic. On account of this last and peculiar
property, I have called it the elastic pine. It grows very
tall and straight and without limbs except near the top. Thev
undoubtedly would make excellent masts and spars for ship.
ping. On experiments which I made, I found it very diffi.
cult to break limbs an inch in diameter. After passing
part of the way down this mountain, we encamped by a
small spring.

We arose early on the 19th, and commenced our day's
labor, and by diligence went more than twice the distance |
than when we were with the village. We were much an.
noyed by trees fallen across the trail. Encamped upon the I
south-east side of a very high mountain, where there was a
large opening, a spring of water, and a good supply of
grass for our horses.

Sabbath, 20th, Continued in the same encampment, to I
rest according to the commandment. I told Charle he had
better spend a part of the day with his men in devotional
exercises. They all knelt down, and he prayed with them;
afler which he talked with them a considerable time, con.
corning the things which I had taught them. It was truly |
interesting to see these poor heathen upon their knees try-
ing to worship God according to the instructions of the I
scriptures. How can any christian refrain from doing
what he can to give the lamp of life to these benighted
souls, and especially, seeing they are so anxious to know
the way of salvation, and so ready to do* After they had|
closed their worship, I sang a hymn, and prayed, and con.
versed with them.

The inflammation in my head continuing^ I bled myscifl

REFLECTIONS.

Ill

3d our dav's

copiously, which reduced my pulse for a while, but increas-
ed my weakness, so that I could walk but a few rods with-
out much fatigue.

Sometimes, amidst all the evidences of God's mercy to
me, I found my heart sinking into despondency, and was
ready to say, I shall perish in these wild, cold mountains.
It seemed, that such was my failure of strength, and I was
becoming so emaciated, that I could not endure the fatigue
of traveling eight days more over these mountains which are
on an average about six thousand feet high ; and as they
range north and south, with only very narrow valleys be-
tween, and our course was only a little north of west, we
were constantly ascending and descending ; and we could
not discontinue our journey for the want of provisions.
The thought, that I must fail of accomplishing the object of
my mission, and close my life without a sympathizing friend
near with whom I could converse and pray, and be buried in
these solitary mountains, filled me with a gloom which I knew
was wrong. My judgment was clear, but I could not make
it influence the feelings of my heart. At night, I some-
times thought a pillow desirable, upon which to lay my ach-
ing, throbbing head, but my portmanteau was a very good
substitute, and I rested quietly upon the ground, and every
morning arose refreshed by sleep.

Monday, 21st. At a very early hour we resumed our
journey, and our horses being recruited with the rest and
good fare they had yesterday, made a long day's journey,
considering the height of the mountain over which we
passed, and the rocks and trees obstructing the trail. I had
noticed the mountain over which we passed to-day, which
is about seven thousand feet high, two days before we arrived
at the top ; and queried in my mind whether Charle, my
guide, would not depart in this instance from the common
custom of the Indians, which is to pass over the highest
parts of mountains, and to descend i^to the lowest valleys*

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112

A CURIOSITY.

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But we passed the highest part, except one peak, which, in
nearly all its parts, is perpendicular, and rises like an ini.
mense castle or pyramid. It is composed of basalt ; and
around it volcanic rocks lie scattered in great profusion.
At the base there are also excavations, around and below
which there is much lava. This is a granite mountain,
much of which is in its natural state. The way by which
I calculated the height of these mountains is, that some of
them are tipped with perpetual snow ; and as eight thou,
sand feet, in latitude 42°, is the region of perpetual snow,
so there can be no doubt, as these do not vary greatly from
each other, that they average six thousand feet.

I was much interested with a curiosity upon this moun.
tain, which was two granite rocks, each weighing many
tons, placed one upon the other, like the parts of an hour
glass. It was wonderful how nicely the uppermost one was
balanced upon the other. It would seem that a puff of
wind would blow it off its centre. Charle, the chief, seeing
me one day examining, with a magnifying glass, some min.
erals, said, " these white men know every thing. They
know what rocks are made of, they know how to make iron,
and how to make watches, and how to make the needle al-
ways point to the north." They had seen a compass be.
fore, and when I showed them mine, they said, " that would
keep me from getting lost." Encamped upon a mountain
by a small spring, where there was but little grass. A wa-
ter fall was seen descending down a high point of the same
mountain, which, by its continual foaming, looked like a
white belt girding its side.

Left our encampment, on the 22d, at an early hour and
continued our mountainous journey. Parts of the way the
ascent and descent was at an angle of 45° and some places
even more steep ; and sometimes on the verge of dizzy pre.
cipices ; sometimes down shelves of rocks where my Indi-
an horse would have to jump from one to another ; and in

§ h

OEOLOGT.

119

other places he would brace himself upon all fours and
slide down ; and I had become so weak that I could not
walk on foot, but was obliged to keep upon his back. Fre-
quently between the mountains there would be space enough
only for a rushing stream of the purest water to find its
way ; the bank on the one side of which would terminate
the descent of one mountain, and the other bank commence
the ascent of another. The question often arose in my
mind, can this section of country ever be inhabited, unless
these mountains shall be brought low, and these valleys shall
be exalted ? But they may be designed to perpetuate it
supply of lumber for the wide-spread prairies ; and they may
contain mines of treasures, which, when wrought, will need
these forests for fuel, and these rushing streams for water
power. Roads may be constructed running north and south,
so that transportations may be made south to the Salmon
river, and north to the Cooscootske.*

After a fatiguing day's march, we encamped in a lovr
stony place where there was but little grass, for the want
of which some of our horses strayed away. Our men
killed a deer, which was a very agreeable exchange from
dried buffalo.

The mountains, over which we made our way on the 23d,
were of primitive formation, with the exception of soma
parts which were volcanic. Granite and mica slate pre-
dominated. In one place there were immense quantities of
granite, covering more than a hundred acres, in a broken
state, as though prepared for making walls, mostly in cubic
forms. In some places the change from granite, in its nat-
ural state, to amygdaloid, was so gradual, that it would be
difficult to say, where the one ended and the other began ;

*Thename of this river in the journal of Clarke and Lewis, is written
Cooscooakee, and so in all other writings I have seen. This signifies the
water water. But Cooscootske signifies the little water. Coos, water;,
coots, little ; ke, the. The little river.
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114

MOUNTAIN LAKES.

like the change from day to night. While riding along up.
on a narrow ridge of this mountain, I saw two small lakes
a little down the sides ; one on the right hand which ap.
peared to be very black, and the other upon the left was
very yellow with sulphur, issuing from a spring in the moun.
tain side. These two lakes were directly opposite each
other, and not far distant. I should have examined them
more minutely, had my strength permitted me to go down
to them, and again ascend to where I must have left my
horse. There was also much in the scenery around to as.
tonish ; mountain rising above mountain, and perpendicular
above perpendicular.

Encamped in a valley, where there was a small meadow
well supplied with grass. The woods around were very
dense, composed mostly of the new species of pine, which
here were very tall, straight, and not, however, very large
in diameter.

Took an early departure, on the 24th, from our encamp.
ment, and made good progress through the day. About the
middle of the day, we came to where we could look forward
without the sight being obstructed by mountains, and it
was pleasant to have a prospect opening into the wide
world. Continued to descend, until we came into a vale of
considerable extent, through which flows a large branch of
the Cooscootske. Found to-day a new species of elder,
which grows very large, five or six inches in diameter, and
from ten to twenty feet high, bearing berries which are blue
and pleasant to the taste. Kentuc caught me some fine
trout.

Here was a band of horses, belonging to the Nez Perces,
which they left here last spring. They were in fine order. It
is remarkable that their horses do not wander far from where
they are left, although there are no fences to inclose them.
Here some of my Indians changed their horses and took

A RARE ANIMAL, NEW SPECIES.

115

fresh ones, relieving those which were worn down with long
journeying.

On the 25th, we pursued our course down this fertile vale,
until one in the afternoon, when contrary to my expecta-
tions, we had to leave this branch of the Cooscootske,
which was too much of a northerly direction, and ascended
another high mountain, which was densely covered with
woods. Among the largest trees is a new species of fir,
single leafed, the bark thick and rough like the bark of hem-
lock, but the balsam is the same as the common fir. I saw
more birds in this valley, than in all the country through
I which I had passed west of the Rocky Mountains ; robins
in great numbers, the magpie, and with them a new species
of bird about as large as the magpie, its color uniformly a
dull red, somewhat resembling chocolate. Thermometer
[stood at 54°.

On the 26th, we proceeded about four hours on our way,
land encamped on the side of a mountain near its summit ;
[the distance to another place suitable for our horses over
sabbath, being too great. Saw to-day a new species of an-
imal, such as I never saw before. It was about as large as

martin, and probably of that genus. Its color was a
mght orange red, resembling a live coal of fire ; its fur ap-

eared to be very fine ; its head round and large ; its eyes
black, prominent, and very piercing. I was forward of my
Indians, and when it saw me, it sprang about eight feet up

tree, ran part of the way up, but appeared to be afraid to
iscend higher. Attempts were made to obtain it, but with.
Dut success. An Indian hit it with an arrow, but did not
(ill it. It came down and escaped. Saw in these moun-
tains a new variety of striped squirrel, only about half as
jiarge as those found in the United States ; also another
and, in every respect resembling the red squirrel, excepting
its color. It is nearly black, excepting its under parts,
Iwhich are rufous, or reddish yellow. Also a new species of

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116

A CHIEF S ANXIETY.

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pheasant, if it may be called a pheasant. It is much smal.
ler than the common ; somewhat lighter colored, and more
spotted ; its habits are gregarious like the common quail.
It was remarkably tame, as if unacquainted with enemies ;
and when assailed with stones by the Indians, appeared to
l)e amazed, and made scarcely any effort to escape. Their
flesh was very good, and furnished an additional supply to
our waning stock of provisions.

Sabbath, 27th. Continued in our encampment. My
health no better— sweat profusely last night, and yet the in.
flammation was rather increasing — took from my arm a pint
of blood, which, while it weakened, gave me relief.

We had religious services in the fore and after part of the I
day, as last sabbath. Charle prays every morning and
evening with his men, also asks a blessing when they eat.
In the afternoon, he took Compo, my interpreter, and came |
and sat down by me, and said, " we are now near our coun.
try, and when we come into it, I wish you to look over it, I
and see if it is good for missionaries to live in. I know
but little about God — my people know but little — I wish my
people to know more about God." He said he wished to
talk with me much more, and was sorry I had not a better
qualified interpreter. Besides the bible, read part of a lit-
tie book called "Christ precious."

Monday, 28th. In better health. Madealongday'smarcll
and emerged from the mountains, two o'clock in the afterj
noon. Not finding water as we expected, where to rest, we I
were obliged to travel on until near night, when we camel
to another branch of the Cooscootske, by which we found I
several lodges of Nez Perce Indians. A salute was fired, I
and then we were welcomed with a ceremonious, but hearty
shaking of hands. They then feasted us with some excel-
lent dried salmon, for which I made them some small presents.
I was rejoiced to find myself wholly through the Salmon
river mountains, and convalescent. These mountains weie|

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'•',*

MEETING WITH INDIANS.

117

far worse to pass than the Rocky Mountains, as we could
not take advantage of any valley, excepting one in which
y/e journeyed only two-thirds of a day. Excepting the
middle of the days, the atmosphere was cold, and frequently
ice was formed during the night. It was a favor that we
had no snow, which often falls upon the tops >f these moun.
tains very early in the autumn ; nor Ijad we any storms, or
[verv unpleasant weather in our i);issage over. Frequently
heavy gales of winds sweep through these mountains, Jind
blow down parts of the forests ; but we had none to endan-
ger us. ^

On the 29th, we proceeded down this branch more than
Ihalf the day, and found the soil black and good, well cov-
ered with grass, which, however, was dried into hay by the
summer drouth. Here, as on most prairies, there is much
Avant of wood, there being but little besides what is found
ilong the streams of water. This country continues to be
rolcanic, as is evinced by the abundance of lava and basalt,
'ame at noon to six lodges of Indians, who welcomed us
|ivith the same friendly expressions, as did those where we
encamped the last night. Left the branch of the Cooscoots-
^e and ascended westerly to the upper prairies, which are as
jfertile as the lower, and do not suffer any more with the
Jrouth. After a long fatiguing ride over these prairies, we
jescended into a deep gulf, almost enclosed with perpendic-
iiar walls of basalt ; in the bottom of which, we found a
large spring of water, by which we encamped.

Arose very early on the 30th, set forward, and made good
kogressj considering the exhausted state of our horses,
^und most of the streams dried up, and one, which is
generally large, and where we intended to have arrived last
iight, was wholly destitute of water and grass. Ascend-
ing out of this gulf, we found, toward the summit of the
^igh prairie, a good spring of water, with sufficiency of
jrass, where we refreshed ourselves at noon . The horses, con-

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118

DBOUTHS,

trary to my expectations, preferred the dried grass to the
green. In the afternoon, we went through a section of coun.
try well supplied with woods, chiefly made up of yellowl
pine and white oak ; where also much of the soil appeareii
to be very good. Towards night we came to a stream oi
water running west, where we encamped. Thermometerl
82° at noon.

Thursday, October 1st. Arose early with substantially i
better health, for which I cannot be too thankful. After
traveling a few miles, we came to several lodges of Xezj
Perces, who gave us their kind welcome, and seemed, aJ
also at the other lodges, pleased to see their first chicfj
They manifested much the same feelings on learning wliol
I was, and the object of my coming into their country, as dif I
tlieir countrymen whom we met at the rendezvous. ^Vitij
these Indians, I left two of my horses, which were too mucJ
exhausted with the fatigues of my long journey to procewl
any farther. I had fears that they would not endure tliJ
deprivations of the coming winter, without any shelter fioii|
the cold and storms, and with nothing to eat, except \^ha^
they could find upon the prairies.

Arrived, two o'clock in the afternoon, at the Lewis brant
of the Columbia river, near the confluence of the CooscootiJ
ke. Though this is a large river, yet on account of ili
summer's drouth, there is less water flowing down its chaii]
nel than I anticipated.

A squalid looking Indian took us over the ferry in a ca|
noe, which appeared as weather-beaten as himself, and re|
minded me of fabled Charon and his cerulean boat.

This country diflers very much from what I had expected!
for while the soil is generally good, and furnishes a suppl;|
for grazing, yet there is sucii want of summer rains, \\&
some kinds of grain cannot flourish, especially Indian cornj
The crops sown in the fall of the year, or very early in
spring, would probably be so far advanced before the sever!

^rass to the
ion of coun.
ip of yellow!
oil appearei!
a stream oil
rhermometerl

substantially I
ikful. After
(dges of Neil
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learning vliJ
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ly shelter frou
except \\\&

Lewis brand
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boat.

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Indian cornj

early in

lore the seveil

GEOLOGY.

119

ity of the drouth should be felt, that they would do Avell.
In general there is a great want of wood for building, fenc-
ing, and fuel; but at the confluence of these rivers a sup-
ply may be brought down the Cooscootske. This place
I combines many advantages for a missionary station.

I began to doubt the correctness of the statements of
I some travelers, in regard to the great numbers of wild horses,
and the immense multitudes of wolves, which they say they
saw this side the Rocky Mountains ; for as yet I had seen
no wild horses, and only a very few wolves. Encamped
[upon the west bank of Lewis' river, or, as it is more com-
lonly called, the Snake river.
On the 2d, we arose early, but were detained some time be-
jfore all our horses could be found. Set out about eight, and
Ipreceeded three hours down the river to a place where it takes
|a northerly bend, through a section of mountains, which
ire difficult to be passed. Our direct course to Walla
Walla being west north-west, we here left the river and fol-
lowed a small stream up a valley nearly to its source. The
section of country through which we journeyed to-day was
considerably mountainous. One part of the river along
^vhich we traveled was walled up with volcanic rocks. The
lowest part was amygdaloid, about thirty feet high above the
jriver, and very cellular, terminating in a narrow horizontal
)lain, Above this is superimposed columnar basalt ; the
columns of which are regular pentagons, varying from two
|tofour feet in diameter, rising sixty feet high, perpendicular
excepting in one place, where they were a little inclining,
lAbove this formation of columns there was a stratum of
rolcanic stones and disintegrated basalt, of some six or eight
Ifeet thickness, lying in a confused state. Then uj)on this
another section of basalt and amygdaloid of fifty feet depth,
and so on to the height of 300 feet nearly perpendicular.
The pentagons are as regularly formed, and have much the
same appearance^ as those composing the Giant's causeway

■■ \

120

GAMMAS BOOT.

mr'^:

in Ireland. From the best observations I could make, I was
led to conclude that the different sections were raised by
widely extended subterranean fires, and at different periods
of time. The basalt in this place, and also in almost all
other places, which I have yet seen, is of very dark color,
containing augite, or black oxid of iron ; and is what sonie,
who have been in this country, have called black rocks.

Saturday 3d. We took an early departure from our tr.
campment. We had through the day, an uncommonly liitjii I
wind from the west, a pleasant sun, and serene atmosphere.
We have had no rain since the 18th of July, and not inore|
than five cloudy days. The water this side the Rocky
Mountains is excellent, and no country can possess a climate I
more conducive to health. After passing over a somewhat
hilly country well covered with grass, we encamped for tli-;
night, and for the sabbath, in a fertile vale upon an upper
branch of the Walla Walla river. Here we found three
lodges of Nez Perces who were out on a hunt for deer, and
whose women were gathering cammas roots. This root in
some degree resembles in taste and nutritive properties t!ie
sweet potato, and constitutes a large item of food of the I
Indians througout a considerable section of country this
side Salmon river and Salmon river mountains. The coml
mon tokens of friendship were interchanged ; and they pre-
sented us a share of such food as they had, and on my parti
made them some small presents.

Sabbath, 4th. We had public worship, at which all tiiel
men, women, and children of three lodges attended. What
tiiere was of a truly spiritual nature in our worship, waj|
known to the searcher of hearts, but there was the appear-
ance of devotion, and good attention was paid to what was I
said. It is affecting to see the anxiety these Indians mani-
fest to know what they must do to please God, and to obtain |
salvation.

Employed part ol the day in reading Vincent's Explana-

K ■ ;
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1'''

FRIENDLY RECEPTION.

121

tion of thecatech'^^m. This is an excellent compendium of
divinity, and is far too much neglected in families and sab-
I bath schools.

Decamped early, on the 5th, and pursued our journey
I down the Walla Walla river, upon some parts of which
I there is a good supply of wood — yellow pine, cotton- wood,
i and willows, and various kinds of shrubbery, of which the
kvild rose is no small part. Through most parts of this val-
ley the soil is good, and in some places widely extended,
i We find but very little game of any kind. Some prairie
liens and avosets — some robins, and a few other small birds
of new species. The crow is seen everywhere, and hero
Ithey are remarkably tame. The Indians having no induce-
Inients to molest them, they do not fear man as their com-
Imon enemy. Our encampment was on the same brancli
|of the Walla Walla where there were high bluffs on botli
sides.

October 6th. We arose early and commenced our jour-
Iney with animating hope of reaching Walla Walla and of
Being civilized people before noon. Ascended the bluffs
nid passed over an undulating prairie of good soil, leaving
IWalla Walla river to our left. As we drew near the Co-
lumbia river the soil became more and more sandy. Before
ne arrived at the fort, my attention was arrested by seeing
some cows and other cattle, in fine order, feeding upon the
jbottom-land ; and the sight was not only novel, after hav-
ing been so long from civilized life, but the more interesting
3n account of being unexpected. As we came near the
fort, the Indians fired their customary salute, and then rush-
ed forward to the gate. Mr. P. C. Pambrun, the superin-
tendent, met us at the gate, and gave me a kind welcome.
11 never felt more joy in entering a habitation of civilized
[people, and whose language was not strange. I felt that I
liad great cause of thankfulness, that God, in his great mer-
U

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122

THE BREAKFAST BOOM.

cy, and by his watchful providence, had brought me in safe.
ty and with restored health to this place. Soon I was in.
vited into another apartment to breakfast ; and compara.
tively speaking, it was a new thing to sit in a chair y and at
a table spread with furniture — and upon which was placed
ducks, bread and butter, sugar and milk. Bread, butter, and
milk, were great luxuries.

vV '-.

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FORT WALLA WALLA.

123

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* V • f

CHAPTER VIII.

Description of Walla Walla— the kind treatment cf the Indians by the
Hudson Bay Company— leave Walla Walla for fort Vancouver — lo'
quacious orator— rapids— introduction to the Cayuse Indians— morn-
ing prospect— long rapids— Volcanic mountains — trial of Indian gen-
erosity — arrival at the falls of the Columbia river — the rousing effects
of oratory— La Dalles — Boston trading company — remarkable subsi-
dence— Cascades — Chenooks are the Flatheads and Nez Perces — dan-
gerous rapids— Indian burying places— Pillar rock — interesting water
fall— sea fowl- -arrive at fort Vancouver.

Fort Walla Walla is situated on the south side of the
Columbia river, ten miles below the confluence of the Co-
lumbia and Lewis' river, which last is commonly called, by
the people belonging to the Hudson Bay Company, Nez
Perce river ; and one mile above the Walla Walla river, in
latitude 46*^ 2', longitude 119° 30'. Two miles below the
fort there is a range of mountains running north and south,
which, though not high, yet are of considerable magnitude ;
and where the Columbia passes through, it is walled up on
both sides with basalt, in many places three hundred feet
perpendicular height, which renders the scenery pictur-
esque. The soil, for considerable distance around, with the
exception of some strips of bottom-land, is sandy, and for
the want of summer rains is not productive. This estab-
lishment is not only supplied with the necessaries of life, but
also with many of the conveniences. They have cows,
horses, hogs, fowls, &;c. and cultivate corn, potatoes, and a
variety of garden vegetables ; and might enlarge these and
otlicr productions to a great extent. They also keep on
hand dry goods and hardware, not only for their own con.

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124

HUDSON BAY COMPANY.

venience, but also for Indian trade. Most of the year thev
have a good supply of fish ; of which there are abundance
of salmon of the first quality. There is a great deficiency
in religious privileges.

I arrived here in six months and twenty-three days from
leaving home — forty-five from Rendezvous — and twenty
days from entering Salmon river mountains.

Wednesday, 7th. Continued in this place* Settled with
my interpreter, gave presents to my Indians, and made ar.
rangements for leaving this place to-morrow, in a canoe
propelled by Indians belonging to the Walla Walla tribe,
for Fort Vancouver, which is two hundred miles down the
Columbia.

Thus I am putting myself, without fear, into the hands of
Indians, where' a few years ago an escort of fifty men was
necessary for safety, and shall have to pass places which
have been battle-grounds between traders and Indians.

The gentlemen belonging to the Hudson Bay Company
are worthy of commendation for their good treatment of
the Indians, by which they have obtained their friendship
and confidence, and also for the efforts, which some few of
them have made to instruct those about them »n the first
principles of our holy religion ; especially in regard to
equity, humanity, and morality. This company is of long
standing, have become rich in the fur trade, and they intepd
to perpetuate the business ; therefore they consult the pros,
perity of the Indians as intimately connected with their
own. I have not heard as yet of a single instance of any
Indians being wantonly killed by any of the men belonging
to this company. Nor have I heard any boasting among
them of the satisfaction taken in killing or abusing Indians,
as I have elsewhere heard.

Thursday, 8th. My three Walla Walla Indians having
got all things in readiness, mats, provisions, &c. f'Tnished
by the kindness of Mr. Pambrun, and he having givea

A VOYAGE COMMENCED.

125

them their instructions, I went on board the canoe at nine
o'clock in the morning, and having passed the usual saluta-
tions, we shoved off, and gently glided down the river, which
here is three-fourths of a mile wide, I felt myself in a new
situation — my horses dismissed — I was in a frail canoe upon
the wide waters of the Columbia, subject to winds, and with
rapids and falls on the way, and among stranger Indians,
two hundred miles by water before I could expect to find
any white men ; to pass through several nations whose Ian.
guages are entirely different ; yet the change from horse-
back, for months over mountains and plains, through defiles
and ravines, was anticipated with satisfaction.

My three Indians were well acquainted with the river and
with the art of managing the canoe. One of them under-
stood the Nez Perce language tolerably well, was very lo-
quacious and vain, and wished to be thought a man of impor>
tance. He told me he was to do the talking, and the other
two were to do as he should direct. On account of his im-
portant and loquacious habits, I called him my orator. One
of the other two, who took the stern and steered the canoe,
was a stout, brawny, savage-looking man, excepting the ex-
pression of his countenance, which was indicative of inteU
ligence and good nature. The third, who took the bow,
was an able well disposed young man. The channel
through the volcanic mountain a little below the fort, is one
I of the wonders of nature ; how it was formed through
those immensely hard basaltic rocks to the depth of about
three hundred feet, and for the distance of two or three
miles, remains unexplained. But my attention was so much
taken up with the boiling eddies and the varying currents,
that I did not take those observations which under different
circumstances might have been made, and which the scen-
ery and phenomena demanded. In one place, as we passed
out the mountain channel, the river ran so rapidly over a

rocky bed, and the water was so broken, that I felt unsafe ta
11*

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126

CATUSE INDIANS.

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continue in the canoe, and requested my Indians to put me
ashore. My talking Indian said, "toi*," (good.) I told
him, waiitu tois, kapseisy not good, but bad. But still he
said, tois, tois, and I concluded, that they would not decline
putting me on shore, if there were any particular danger,
The man at the stern put off into the middle of the river,
where the water was the smoothest, but where the current
was equally strong, and with his keen eye fixed upon the
varying eddies, applied his brawny arms to the work ; and
whenever a change of his paddle from one side of the canoe
was necessary, it was done in the twinkling of an eye.
Any failure of right management would have been disast.
rous ; but they kept the canoe in the right direction, and we
shot down with such velocity, as, together with the breaking
in of some water, to create solicitude. But this served to
make the smooth parts more pleasant and my mind more
tranquil in regard to future dangers. • i ;• , ;

At two o'clock in the afternoon, we called at an encamp.
ment of Cayuse Indians of about a dozen lodges. My or.
ator, when we had come within hearing, announced our ap.
proach and informed them who I was, and the object of my
tour, and that they must prepare to receive me with all due
respect — that I was not a trader and that I had not come
with goods, but to teach them how to worship God. They
arranged themselves in single file, the chiefs and principal
men forward, then the more common men, next the women
according to their rank, the wives of chiefs, the old women,
the young — and then the children according to age. All
things being made ready, the salute was fired, and I landed
and shook hands with all, even the youngest children, many
of whom, when they presented the hand, would turn away
their faces through fear. I made them some presents, and
bought of them some dried salmon and cranberries. These
were the first cranberries I had seen west of the Rocky
Mountains, and they were a grateful acid. They expressed

MOBIfllfO FBOSPECT^

127

much satisfaction in seeing me, and in the object of my
coming among them. I told them I could not explain to
them what I wished, but they must meet me next spring at
Walla Walla, where I should have an interpreter, and then
I would tell them about God. After again shaking hands
with them, we went on our way.

At five o'clock we landed upon the north shore, and en-
camped near a large number of Nez Perce Indians, who
came about me with the same tokens of friendship and
kindness, which characterizes their nation. Among their
acts of kindness they brought me wood, which in this sec-
tion of the country is scarce ; and gathered small bushes
and grass to make my bed upon. In return I made them
some presents. ^

October 9th. Arose before day, and as soon as any light
appeared, resumed our voyage down the river. The morn-
ing was pleasant, the country around open and diversified
with rolling prairies and distant mountain tops,, mellowed
with the opening beams of the rising sun. It was a time
for pleasing contemplations, such as banished all feelings of
solitude, although no sound broke upon the ear, but the reg-
ularly timed strokes of the paddles of my Indians, who were
urging forward my canoe with an accelerated velocity,.
greater than the current of the river would have carried
The operations of nature were spread out in si-

us.

Ilence. About the middle of the day, the silence was in-
terrupted by the roar of a distant rapid ; the sound of which
continued to increase, until the white breaking water was
presented to view. For several miles the bed of the river
was filled with rocks, and several rocky islands and shoals,
among which the whirling and foaming water was forcing
its way. The only part of the river, which presented any
appearance of safety, was along the south shore. This had
somewhat the appearance of a wake. My Indians made

I no movement for landing, but kept near the middle of the

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128

GOOD PASTUBAOE.

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river. On my expressing some apprehensions of danger
they pointed toward the wake and said, " tois," I pointed
forward and toward the north shore, and said, kapseis, bad. |
They answered, ai, kapseis ; and with the language of sigi
accompanying their words, told me they would keep the I
canoe in the good water, and it would not fill, nor be drawn
into the breakers. My confidence in their skill of man.
agement being well established, I made no objection to their
going forward, and in a very short time we had passed the
apparent danger, and were gliding along over the smoolli
surface on the south side of a large island, about six miles |

During the day, the country around was comparatively I
level, covered with a black soil, which appears to have been
formed by atmospheric agents decomposing the volcanic
substances, which so generally abound. This section of
the country is well supplied with grass, which 'luring the
summer drouth is converted into hay. Who can calculate
the multitudes of cattle and sheep, which might be kept
here summer and winter, with no other labor than the care
of a few herdsmen and shepherds. Encamped upon the
north side of the river among some sand hills, a little below
several lodges of Walla Walla Indianr^, to whom I had the|
usual and formal introduction.

I was pleased to find Indians belonging todifierenttribesl
scattered all along this river, living in harmony without any
fueds or jealousies. It speaks macii in favor of their kind |
and peaceable dispositions. .,

On the 10th, arose before day, after a night's comfortable!
rest, and by the first breaking light we had our baggage on
board and were under way. Towards the middle of the day
we came to a more mountainous tract of country, and at a |
place where the mountains crossed the river, there were very
rocky rapids, but by winding our way among islands near
the north shore, we made a safe descent. About noon, a

TBIAX OF INDIAN GENEROSITY.

12*

head wind, which commenced in the fore part of the dav ,
I had become so fresh and the waves began to multiply their
I ^hite caps, so that it was dangerous navigation for our ca-
noe, and we had to land and wait for a more favorable time.
I We encamped on the north side of the river under a very
high and romantic basaltic mountain ; in some parts- near
us the rocky walls were more than two hundred feet in per-
pendicular height — in one place hanging over. In some
places, and at different altitudes of this immense wall there
were cavities of considerable magnitude, and in others wide^
and deep fissures ; through one of which passes the road
[traveled by pedestrians and those on horse-back. This
Iplace is ten miles above the Falls of the Columbia, which
[the Indians call the tum tum ; the same expression they use
[for the beating of the heart. '

About a mile above us were encamped some Walla Wallas,
[many of whom came to my tent and wished to enter into*
rade with me, offering me beaver at a low price. I told
them to trade was not my business^ any farther than to buy
Balmon, &c. for food. My orator told me one of them was
Mediot, a chief, and would expect a present. As a trial
)f thoir disposition, I told him, they had not brought me
iny wood for a fire, and I would not give them any thing
mtil they showed their kindness. But he said I must make
khe chief a present and buy of them wood. I replied,
caiitu, if he is a chief let him show the generosity of a
shief. Very soon they brought wood, and a fire was made,
rhich I followed with some presents.
Sabbath, 11th. Continued in the same encampment, and
^d my heart's desire much excited for the salvation of
these poor heathen. There were a sufficient number here
to have made a decent congregation had I any medium of
communication. Their language differs from the Nez;
Perces', so that I could have no communication with them
jnly by my orator, who asked me if he should teach these

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Indians what he had learned about God and his worship. \\
gave him permission, though I had fears he was influenced
more by love of distinction than any higher motive; bm
still, if any true light should be imparted to them, I would |
rejoice in it.

I arose the latter part of the night of the 12th, and the I
weather being calm, and the moon shining pleasantly, h J
took our departure for the Falls, where we arrived some
time before day. Above the Falls there is a large island,
on the south side of which there is a commodious bay,
near which and upon the river De Shutes, which here unitej
with the Columbia, there is a village of the Fall Indians ofl
about thirty lodges. Here we landed, and my talker raised
his oratorical voice to such a note as aroused the whole vil
lage, calling upon the chiefs to arise, and with their people!
receive the personage with him in due form. It was butil
short time before their line was formed, the first chief lead!
ing the way, and others according to their rank and m
following, and the ceremony of shaking hands was perforii|
ed ; and all retired to their lodges again.

There is a great want of neatness among Indians in j
eral, but more especially among those on this river, wlio|
live by fishing.

Here we left our canoe, and took horses and proceeded|
by land, upon the south side of the river, by the Falls, an
down the La Dalles, six miles. From the lower end of thtl
island where the rapids begin, to the perpendicular fall, iil
about two miles ; and here the river contracts, when the wa-l
ter is low, to a very narrow space, and with only a shoitl
distance of swift water, it makes its plunge twenty feet perl
pendicular ; and then after a short distance of rapids, dashJ
ing against the rocks, it moves on in a narrow passage,!
filled with rapids and eddies, among volcanic rocks, calledl
the La Dalles, four miles ; and then spreads out into a gen-
tle broad channel. At the Falls and the La Dalles below,

1^- :"■

BOSTON TRADING COMPANY.

131

Ithere are several carrying places, where boats and canoes,
las well as baggage, have to be transported. The geological
Iformation along this distance is singular. With the excep-
tion of a few high hills and bluffs, the shore and lands
iround are but little above the river in the freshet rise ; and
Let the channel of the river is through the hardest basalt
ind amygdaloid. Has this channel worn this solid rock
Iformation 1 If so, at what time ? There is no appearance
)f the channel havin , worn perceptibly deeper, since these
3cks, from their melted state, spread out into their present
ponditioD, which must have taken place centuries and cen-
luries ago. As I have no confidence in theories founded
ipon conjecture, nor in Indian traditions, I leave the sub-
let for others to tell us how these things took place. But
^ne thing is true, the Falls and La Dalles furnish a situation
)r water power equal to any in any part of the world.
lere also is one of the best locations for salmon fishing,
^nd where great numbers of Indians collect in the season of
iking them, which commences the last of April, or the first
[f May, and continues a few months. At the lower part of
le La Dalles, I found Capt. Wyeth from Boston, with a
(lall company of men going up the river to Fort Hall.
'apt. Wyeth, who is an intelligent and sociable man, had
le charge of the business of a company formed in Boston,
31- salmon fishing on the Columbia, and for trade and trap-
ling in the region of the mountains. The plan of the
arapany was to send d ship annually around Cape Horn
ito Columbia river, to bring out goods for trade, and to take
korae the salmon and furs which should be obtained through

Die year. It was expected the profits on the salmon would
|efray all common expenses, and that the profits on the furs
rould be clear, and yield a handsome income. But thus
ir the enterprise has been attended with many disasters,
|nd the loss of many lives — several of the men were drown-
1, and fiome killed by Indians.

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132

BEMARKABLE PHENOMENA,

Here I dismissed my Walla Walla Indians to return, ani
TilkT, the first chief of the La Dalles Indians, engaged to
furnish me with a canoe and men to carry me to Fort Van.
couver. Encamped with Capt. Wyeth, and obtained from
him a short vocabulary of the Chenook language, to enable
me to do common business with the Indians residing alone
on the lower part of this river.

Tuesday, 13th. I left this encampment at nine o'clock
in the forenoon, in the canoe with three men furnished hv
TilkT, and made good progress down the river, which flows
in a wide and gentle current. Many parts of the way, the
river is walled up with high and perpendiculai basalt. At
the La Dalles commences a wood country, which becomes
more and more dense as we descend, and more broken witn
high hills and precipices. Noticed a remarkable phenome.
non — trees standing in their natural position in the river, in
many places where the water is twenty feet deep, or mucli
more, and rising to high, or freshet water mark, which is
fifteen feet above the low water. Above the freshet rise tiie
tops of the trees are decayed and gone. I deferred forming'
an opinion in regard to the cause, until I should collect more
data. About the middle of the day a south wind began to
blow, and continued to increase until it became necessary to
go on shore and encamp, which we did about four in the at.
ternoon.

On the 14th, we did not make much progress on account of
wind and rain. Encamped in a cavern under a large pro.
jecting rock, the upper part of which was formed of basak,
the lower of pudding stone. Although this encampment
was at least six miles above the Cascades, yet the roar oi
the water could be distinctly heard. The same phenome-
non of trees continued. I paid particular attention to the
condition of the shores of the river and adjacent hills, to
see if any evidence could be discovered of their having
sliddc: down from the hills by escarpment ; but as their coo-

REMARKABLE SUBSIDENCE.

133

Idition was the same where there were no hills near, I was

led to conjecture, that I should find at the Cascades the river

darned up with volcanic productions ; and I was induced to

believe it would be found to be so, from the fact, that the riv-

ler the whole distance from the La Dalles, is wide and deep,

land moves with a sluggish current.

On the 15th, the wind and rain continuing through the
{fore part of the day, I did not leave my encampment until
noon, when we set forward and arrived at the Cascades at
two o'clock in the afternoon. The trees, to-day, were still
Iniore numerous, in many places standing in deep water, and
hvc had to pick our way with our canoe in some parts, as
{through a forest. The water of this river is so clear, that
|l had an opportunity of examining their position down to
jtheir spreading roots, and found them in the same condition
IS when standing in their natural forest. As I approached
the Cascades, instead of finding an embankment formed
from volcanic eruptions, the shores above the falls were low,
md the velocity of the water began to accelerate two-thirds
3f a mile above the main rapid. On a full examination, it
bs plainly evident that here has been an uncommon subsi-
dence of a tract of land, more than twenty miles in length,
md more than a mile in width. The trees standing in the
rater are found mostly towards and near the north shore,
md yet, from the depth of the river and its sluggish move-
nt, I should conclude the subsidence affected the whole
That the trees are not wholly decayed down to low
mtet mark, proves that the subsidence is, comparatively, of
scent date ; and their undisturbed, natural position proves
[that it took place in a tranquil manner, not by any tremen-
Idous convulsion of nature. The cause lies concealed, but
[the fact is plain. That parts of forest may in this way
submerge, is evident from similar facts. The noted one on
Ithe eastern coast of Yorkshire and Lincolnshire, England,

lis about fifteen feet below low water mark, extending east.
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134

Tm CASCADES.

waiJ a considerable distance from the shore, of whicb
stumps and roots are seen in their natural position. So
manifest is the evidence of great changes having taken
place by volcanic power, in these regions west of the Rocky
Mountains, both by upheaving and subsidence, that we at«
led to enquire whether there are not now such agents in op.
eration, and upon such materials, that the valleys shall be
literally exalted, and the mountains be made low, and wa. |
ters spring up in the deserts.

The Cascades, so called to distinguish them from the I
Falls, do not differ very materially from 1 hem, except in the
wild, romantic scenery around. There is no perpendicular
fall, but the water concentrates, from its wide spread fonn,
w a very narrow compass, and then rushes with great im.
petuosity down an almost perpendicular precipice twenty or
thirty feet, and continues in a foaming and whirling descent
most of the way five miles farther, where it meets the tide
waters from the Pacific ocean. Above the falls, in the river,
there are many islands, none of which are very large-
flome are only volcanic rocks. About the Cascades, ai
many miles below, it is very mountainous, especially on the I
south side. Their volcanic peaks are as diversified in their |
shapes, as they are numerous, being conical, denticulated, a
needIe>pointed, rising from one t > fifteen hundred feet. While |
imagination generally over-draws her pictures, there wil
be no danger here, even if she should exert all her powers,!

A little above the Cascades, upon the north shore, there
is a small village of Chenooks. These Indians are the only
i«al Flatheads and Nez Perces, or pierced noses, I have
found. They flatten their heads and pierce their noses.
The flattening of their heads is not so great a deformity as
is generally supposed. From a little above the eyes to the
apex, or crown, of the head, there is u. depression, but not
generally in adult persons very noticeable. The pierciDg
of the nos6 is more of a deformity, and is done by inserting

THE FOBTAGE.

135

two small tapering white shells, ahout two inches long, some-
what in the shape of a thorn, through the lower part of the
I cartilaginous division of the nose. I called at this village
to obtain men to carry our canoe by the portage of
I the Cascades. They wished to engage in trade with me in
i several articles of small value, which I declined, informing
them that my business was of a different nature. Whilst
Metained, the daughter of the chief, fancifully decked out in
ornaments, and in all her pride and native haughtiness,
[walked to and fro to exhibit, to the best advantage, her fine,
Icrect, end stately person.

After considerable delay, I obtained four Indians to carry
I the canoe about one hundred rods by the principal rapids,
[or fallS) for which I gave each five charges of powder and
balls ; and an additional reward to one to carry a part of
Imy baggage a mile and a half past the most dangerous rap-
lids, to a bason just below another rapid, formed by large
{rocks confining the river to a very narrow passage, and
Ithrough which it rushes with great impetuosity. My
llndians ran the canoe over this rapid. I was much con-
Icemed for their safety ; but they chose to do it. Two
years before this time, the men of the Hudson Bay Com-
Ipany cordelled several bateau down this rapid — part of the
Imen going in the boats, and part on the shore cordellingn
JThe rope of one broke, and the bateau, in spite of the ef*
■forts of the men in it, was hurried out into the surging and
whirling waves among the rocks — capsized, and all were
Ilrst.

I walked about four miles, until I had passed all the rap^
ids of any special danger. About three-fourths of a mile
I below the uppermost cascade, following an Indian path, 1
I came to a pleasant rise of ground, upon which were several
houses of a forsaken village, which were both larger and far
better than any I had seen in any Indian country. They
were about sixty feet long, and thirty five wide, the frame

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work very well constructed and covered with split plankj
and cedar bark. A little back of these houses, there is a

small lake, in which were a number of wild ducks

enjoying

the comforts of life. As I continued down the Indian I
path, at no great distance from the village, I came to ser.
eral depositories of their dead. They were built of plank I
split from balsam fir and cedar, about eight feet long, six I
wide, and five high, and well covered. At one end is what
may be called a door, upon which are paintings of various
devices, which do not appear to be designed for any other
purpose than for ornament. Some had painting upon the |
sides as well as upon the doors. I had with me two Indi.
ans who paid no particular attention to them, more than n I
should in passing a burying ground. They pointed me to
them, and made a short, solemn pause, without any actions
which would indicate their paying any homage to the pic
tures or any other object. The number of these deposito. |
lies I did not ascertain, as many of them were so far de-
cayed, as hardly to be distinguishable ; but of those in I
good condition there were eight or ten. Below this we
passed several houses of far less magnitude than those above:
and while the floors of those were on a level with the siir. I
face of the ground, these were sunk about four feet below,
and the walls rising only about three feet above the ground. I
It would seem these were designed for winter habitations,
but at this time their occupants were all absent. At the I
distance of four miles below the main cataract, the coun-
try, on the north side, spreads out into a level plain, which I
near the river is a prairie, a little distance back covered
with dense forests ; while on the south side of the river it
is very mountainous.

Toward the lower part of Brant island I re-embarked, and
we proceeded a few miles farther and encamped below Pil-
lar rock, over against an extraordinary cascade of water
which descends the mountains from the south. Pillar rock

\h '

BEAUTIFUL WATEItPALL.

13T

Lg 0^ basaltic formation, situated on the north side of the
river, a few rods from the shore, on a narrow strip of rich

I bottom-land, wholly isolated, rising five hundred feet, on

I the river side perpendicular, and on the others nearly so.

I Upon all, except the river side , there are some very narrow

loflfsets upon which grow some cedars, and also a very few
upon the highest point. The base in comparison with the
height, is very small, giving the whole the appearance of
an enormous pillar. This is one of the astonishing wonders

I of volcanic operations.

The cascade upon the south side of the river is a pleas-

[ ing wonder. According to the best estimation I could make,

j its whole descent is not less than a thousand feet. There
are several narrow offsets, from most of which the water

I descends in a white, foaming sheet, at an angle of sixty or

[eighty degrees, presenting the appearance of a white stripe
laid upon the side of the mountains. In two parts of the
descent there are perpendicular falls ; the last and lowest is
probably not less than two hundred feet, and before the

I stream reaches the bottom, it is so dissipated into spray by
I the accelerating power of the attraction of gravitation, that

I it disappears, until again collected at the foot of the moun.

I tain, and winds its way a short distance into the Colum>

Ibia. ' ■ •

On the morning of the 16th, I arose before day, called'
my Indians, and as soon as any light appeared, we again
launched out into the broad river in our frail canoe. For
about ten miles, the surrounding country was mountainous,
forming bold shores ; after which the mountains recede, and
the river spreads out in some places from one to three miles
wide, and an extensive region around presents the appear-
ance of a rich soil well adapted to agriculture. There are
some fine prairies, but far the greatest part is thickly wood-
ed. In this part of the river there are many fertile islands,

some of which are large ; the current moves on gently, and
12*

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138

CIVILIZATION.

the whole scenery around is fascinating. As I descended
towards the great Pacific ocean, water fowl, such as geese,
swans, and a very great variety of ducks, began to multi.
ply ; also every now and then seals made their appearance,
so that I became cheered with the increasing exhibitions of
animated nature, greater than I had witnessed since leav.
ing the buffalo country. Unexpectedly, about the middle of
the day, on the north shore in a thick grove of large firs,
I saw two white men with a yoke of oxen drawing logs for
sawing. I hailed them, and enquired of them the distance
to Fort Vancouver. They replied, " only seven miles around
yonder point, down that prairie," Soon we came to a very
large saw-miU, around which were large piles of lumber and
several cottages. This looked like business upon a mucli
greater scale than I had expected. I called a short time at
this establishment, where I found several Scotch laborers be.
longing to the Hudson Bay Company, with their Indian
families. Although it was then about noon, they offered
me a breakfast of peas and fish, taking it for granted, that
men who travel these western regions, eat only when they
can get an opportunity. At two in the afternoon, arrived
at Fort Vancouver, and never did I feel more joyful to set my
feet on shore, where I expected to find a hospitable people
and the comforts of life. Doct. J. McLaughlin, a chief |
factor and superintendent of this fort and of the business
of the Company west of the Rocky Mountains, received me
with many expressions of kindness, and invited me to make
his residence my home for the winter, and as long as it
would suit my convenience. Never could such an invita.
tion be more thankfully received.

It was now seven months and two days since I left my
home, and during that time, excepting a few delays, I had
been constantly journeying, and the fifly-six last days with
Indians only. I felt that I had great reason for gratitude to
God for his merciful providences toward me, in defending

PBOVIDENCE.

139

land so providing for me, that I had not actually suffered a
Isingle day for the want of food. For months I had no bread
Inor scarcely any vegetables, and I often felt that a change
laud a variety would have been agreeable, but in no case did
ll suffer, nor in any case was I brought to the necessity of
leating dogs or horse flesh. In every exigency God provi-
Ided something wholesome and palatable.

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140

PORT VANCOUVEK.

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CHAPTER IX.

Description of Port Vancouver — departure for Port George and monilj |
of the Columbia — mouths of the Multnomah — Wappatoo island-
May Dacre— Coffin rock— Cowalitz river — Indian friendship— Pacific |
ocean — Gray's bay — Astoria.

Fort Vancouver is situated on the north side of the Co.
lumbia river about sixty rods from the shore, upon a prairie
of some few hundred acres, surrounded with dense woods.
The country around, for a great distance, is generally level
and of good soil, covered with heavy forests, excepting some
prairies interspersed, and presents a pleasing aspect. It it I
in north latitude 45° 37', and longitude 122° 50', west from
Greenwich — one hundred miles from the Pacific ocean. |
The enclosure is strongly stockaded, thirty-seven rods long,
and eighteen rods wide, facing the south. There are about I
one hundred white persons belonging to this establishment,
and an Indian population of three hundred in a small coin.
pass contiguous. There are eight substantial buildings
within the enclosure, and a great number of small onesi
without, making quite a village appearance.

October 17th. After one night's rest in this fort, I left for I
Fort George, situated ninety-one miles below this, near the
confluence of the Columbia with the Pacific, known in the
United States by the name of Astoria. I took this early
departure that I might visit the lower part of the river and
the sea coast, and return before the rainy season should
commence ; and also to avail myself of a passage in the
May Dacre of Boston, Capt. Lambert, a brig belonging to
Capt. Wyeth and Company, which was lying twenty- five
miles below, at the lowest mouth Oi* the Multnomah. Mr.

WAPPATOO ISLAND.

141

Ij. K. Townsend, an ornithologist, from Philadelphia, ac-
jcompanied me to the brig. Our canoe was large and pro-
pelled by Sandwich islanders, of whom there are many in
this country, who have come here as sailors and laborers.
?ive miles below the fort, we passed the main branch of the

[ultnomah river. It is a large river coming from the

juth, and is divided by islands into four branches, at its
confluence with the Columbia. Here commences the W^p-
[)atoo island, so called from a nutritive root found in the
email lakes in the interior, which is much sought for by In-
dians as an article of food. This island is about eighteen

liles long, and five miles wide, formed by a part of the

[ultnomah, branching off about six miles up the main riv-
er, running in a westerly and north-westerly direction,
ind again uniting with the Columbia eighteen miles below
^he main branch. The branch which flows around and
jfonns the island, is about fifteen rods wide, and of suffi-
cient depth for small shipping most of the year. It was
apon this island the Multnomah Indians formerly resided, but
llhey have became as a tribe, extinct. The land is very
fertile, and most of it sufficiently high to be free from inju-
by the June freshet. Some parts of it are prairie, but
ihe greatest part is well wooded with oak, ash, balsam fir,
ind the species of poplar often called balm of Gilead, and
by most travelers, cotton-wood. At the south-west of this
Island, there is a range of mountains which render a space
Df country broken, but beyond these, it is said by hunters,
khat there is an extensive valley well adapted to agricul-
ture. - ..

We arrived at the landing place of the May Dacre, five
)'clock in the aflternoon, and were politely received on

}ard by Capt. Lambert. The brig was moored along side

natural wharf of basalt.

Sabbath, October 18th. Part of the day I retired to a
Ismail prairie back from the river to be free from the noise

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142

HALLBT*8 COMET.

of labor in which the men were engaged in preparing fop
their voyage ; and part of it I passed in the state room
which was assigned me. There is much reason to lament
the entire disregard manifested by many towards God's
holy sabbath. His justice will not always be deferred.]
Those, who will not submit to divine authority, must re:
the fruit of their disobedience. None can slight and abuae |
the mercy of God with impunity,

Monday, 19th. The brig fell down the river with the I
tide, about three miles, but for the want of wind anchored,
In the afternoon I went on shore for exercise, taking witli
me a kanaka, that is, a Sandwich islander, for assistance in |
any danger. I made a long excursion through woods a
over prairies, and found the country pleasant and fertile. I
The grass on the prairies was green, and might furnish sub.
flistence for herds of cattle. When will this immensely ei. |
tended and fertile country be brought under cultivation, a
be filled with an industrious population ? From time io. I
memorial, the natives have not stretched forth a hand to tiQ
the ground, nor made an effort for the earth to yield a sin.
gle article of produce, more than what springs up sponta.
neously; nor will tney, until their minds are enlightened
by divine tmth. No philanthropise, who is not under the
influence of christian principles, will ever engage in the
8elf>denying work of enlightening their minds and arousing
them from their indolence. As on our frontiers, so on these
western shores, the work of destruction, introduced by those
who would be called the friends of man, is going forward.
The Indians in this lower country, that is, below the Cas^ |
cades, are only the remnants of once numerous and power,
ful nations.

The evening was clear and pleasant, which gave us an I
opportunity to see the comet which was observed by Hal.
ley in the year 1682, and which was seen again in 1759,
and now in 1835, proving its time of revolution to be about

DBBB ISLAND—COFFIN KOCK.

143

seventy-six and a half years. Its train of light was very
perceptible and of about twelve degrees length.

We had a favorable wind on the 20th, which, with the
[current of the river, enabled us to make good progress on
our way. Among the many islands, with which the lower
Ipart of this river abounds. Deer island, thirty-three miles
Ibelow Fort Vancouver, is worthy of notice. It is large, and
Iwhile it is sufficiently wooded along the shores, the interior
|i8 chiefly a prairie covered with an exuberant growth of
and vines of different kinds, excepting the grape, of
irhich there is none west of the Rocky Mountains of natur-
il growth. In the interior of this island there are several
Bmall lakes, which are the resort of swans, geese, and ducks.
This island was formerly the residence of many Indians, but
jthey are gone, and nothing is to be seen except the remains
)f a large village.

Among some interesting islands of basalt, there is one
called Coffin Rock, twenty three miles below Deer island,
kituated in the middle of the river, rising ten or fifteen
feet above high freshet water. It is almost entirely cover-
ed with canoes, ii which the dead are deposited, which cir-
cumstance gives it its name. In the section of country from
^appatoo island to the Pacific ocean, the Indians, instead
i)f committing their dead to the earth, deposit them in ca-
noes, and these are placed in such situations as are most se^
kure from beasts of prey — upon such precipices as this is-
land, upon branches of trees, or upon scafiblds made for the
burpose. The bodies of the dead are covered with mats,
|ind split planks are placed over them. The head of the ca-
loe is a little raised, and at the foot there is a hole made for
i^ater to escape.

A few miles below Coffin island, the Cowalitz, a river of
considerable magnitude coming from the north-east^ flows
[nto the Columbia, which is about thirty rods wide, deep,
md navigable for boats a very considerable distance* The

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144 CAFT. LAMBERT AND THE SKILL00T8 CHIEF.

country up this river is said to equal in richness of goi]
any part of the Oregon Territory, and to be so diversifiec
with woods and prairies, that the farmer could at once reap
the fruits of his labour.

Anchored for the night, on account of numerous sand-bars I
and the windings of the navigable channel. The evenimi
was cloudy, and there was the appearance of a gatheriDpl
storm ; but we were so surrounded with high hills, that tiit|
situation was considered safe.

The wind, on the 21st, was light, which rendered our piul
gress slow. This section of the country is mountaino
the ranges running from the south-east to the north.we$t|
and covered with a very dense and heavy growth of woodi
mostly fir and oak. A chief of the Skilloots with a few ol
his people came on board. He was very talkative and sport I
ive. When he was about to leave he told Capt. L. that ail
they had been good friends, and were now about to separate!
he wished for a present. Capt. L. told his steward to givtl
him a shirt. The chief took it and put it on, and thensalil
" how much better would a new pair of pantaloons look witil
this shirt." The captain ordered him the article asked fori
Now said the chief, " a vest would become me, and increasl
my influence with my people," This was also given. Theil
he added, " well, Tie*, I suppose we shall not see each othal
again, can you see me go away without a clean blanket
which would make me a full dress." The captain anawerl
ed, " go about your business ; for there is no end to yoiii|
asking, so long as I continue to give." Then the chief
brought forward a little son, and said, " he is a good bovl
will you not make him a present ?" Captain L. gave hirail
few small articles, and they went away rejoicing more oval
the presents which they received, than sorrowing for thedc

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* Chief, or gentleman.

fciit

FIRST VIEW OP THE PACIFC OCEAN.

145

parture of the May Dacre. We passed to-day Pillar rock,
which stands isolated, more than a half mile from the
north shore, composed of basalt, and is about forty feet high
and fifteen in diameter. We anchored a few miles below.
On the morning of the 22nd, we waited for a favorable
[tide until nine o'clock, when we got under way with a
brisk wind from the east. Here the river begins to spread
lout into a bay, but owing to many shoals, the navigation is
Idifficult. We ran aground, but the increase of the tide set
[us afloat again, and soon the great Pacific ocean opened
|to our view. This boundary of the " far west " was to me
Ian object of great interest ; and when I looked upon the
irk rolling waves, and reflected upon the vast expanse of
[five thousand miles, without an intervening island until you
[arrive at the Japan coast, a stretch of thought was requir-
ed, like contemplating infinity, which can measure only by
succession its expansion and sublimity. Like the vanish.
\nc lines of prospect, so is contemplation lost in this extent
3f ocean. 'j , ■■.■.■ ' ; ;'.

As we proceeded on our way, we left Gray's bay at the
right, extending inland to the north some few miles, in which
on a voyage of discovery the ship Columbia anchored, and
|from whose commander the bay took its name. Nearly op-
posite we passed Tongue Point, which extends nearly two
(liles into the bay or river, from the south. It is considera-
bly elevated, rocky, and covered with woods. Soon after
this, Astoria was announced. My curiosity was excited.
looked, but could not discover what to all on board was so
plainly seen — I blamed my powers of vision — and reluc-
tantly asked the captain, where is Astoria ? " Why," he re-
plied, "right down there — that is Astoria." I said within
|inyself, is that " the far-famed New York of the west ?"
^ic transit gloria mundi I

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146

A8T0BIA.

CHAPTER X.

Description of Port George— Mouth of the Columbia,— Dangerous \A
— Mountainous coast — Varieties of timber— Good location for ani»l
sionary station— Continued rains — Dense forests — Bxcursion in J
canoe down the bay — View of the coast— Disasters at the entranced
the Columbia— Ship William and Anne — Ship Isabella— TonqujiK I
Japanese junk— Reflections — Water fowl— Return to Fort Vancoutul
•~The regard Indians show the dead— Indian kindness.

When we arrived in the small bay, upon which Foul
George (Astoria) is situated, Capt. L. manned a boat tol
take me on shore, in which he also embarked to pay his n.1
apects to the governor, who had the politeness to meet usul
the landing, and invited us, with hearty welcome, to li|
dwelling. After having interchanged the customary s:
tations and made a short stay, the captain re-embarked aul
made his way for cape Disappointment ; and the wind akj
tide being favorable, without any delay, he passed the d
gerous bar, and shaped his course for Boston. Fort Geor^l
is situated on the south side of the bay, ten miles from captl
Disappointment, is without any fortifications, has only twel
small buildings made of hewed logs ; about two acres clearl
ed, a part of which is cultivated with potatoes and gardetl
vegetables. It is occupied by two white men of the Huil
son Bay Company, for the purpose of trade with thefewre-l
maining Indians, who reside about these shores. Thougil
this is the present condition of Astoria, yet the time musil
come, when at the mouth of this noble river there will be il
place of business, and es|>ecially may this be exj>ected, at
this bay affords the only good harbor for a long distance oil
this coast. I should think the north side of iiie bay a littkl
above the cape, adjoining what is called Baker's bay, wouldl

fc^

' .'if

MOUTH OF THE COLUMBIA.

147

be the most desirable location for a place of business, as

Ithat is the safest place for ships to ride at anchor. On that

side of the Columbia bay, the country is more open and

pleasant for a commercial town. On the south side, where

storia was located, the mountains or higb hills come down

Uery near the shore, are rocky and precipitous, preventing

southern prospect, and in the short winter days of a north

latitude of 46° 17' they almost exclude the sun.

A difficulty, of such a nature as is not easily overcome,
exists in regard to the navigation of this river, which is
|he sand bar at its entrance. It is about five miles across
the bar from cape Disappointment out to sea. In no part
}f that distance is the water upon the bar over eight fath.
oms, and in one place only five, and the channel only about
lalfa mile wide. And so wide and open is the ocean, that
^here is always a heavy swell, and when the wind is above
gentle breeze, there are breakers quite across the bar, and
^here is no passing it except when the wind and tide are
jth very favorable. Without the bar there is no anchor-
age, and there have been instances, in the winter season,
|)f ships laying off and on thirty days, waiting for an op.
}rtunity to pass ; and always a good pilot is needed. Per-
bps there have been more lives lost here, in proportion to
(he number of those who have entered this river, than in en-
sring almost any other harbor in the world. But the ca-
lamities have been less frequent, for some years past, than
9rmerly ; and should a steam-boat be stationed at the cape,
rhen business shall be sufficiently multiplied to warrant the
Expense, to tow vessels over, the delays and dangers would
greatly diminished.

The main bay is four miles wide at the mouth of the riv-
fcr, between cape Disappointment and Point Adams ; ex-
pends sixteen miles up the river ; is nine miles wide between
Jhenook bay on the north and Youngs' bay on the south ;
ind seven wide between tort George and Chenook point.

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146

VARIETIES OF TDfBES.

It is filled with many sand-bars, and one, which is called
Sand island, a little within the capes, seen only when the
tide is down, is dangerous to ships when not in the charge
of skilful pilots. .1 ,,{> .If* '

The section of country about the sea coast is very rough
and mountainous, and covered with the most heavy and
dense forest of any part of America of which I have anv
knowledge. The trees are almost all of the genus pinug,
but I saw none of the species commonly called pine, am
where below the Cascades. The balsam fir, of which there
are three species, constitute far the greatest part of the for.
est trees. White cedar, spruce, hemloc, and yew, are in.
terspersed. Three species of oak, of which the white is far
the most common, prevail in small sections ; and ig
some low bottom-lands, the species of poplar, commoniv
called the balm of Gilead, and by some bitter cotton.wood,
is most general. The balsam fir grows very large ; notuii.
frequently four and six feet in diameter and two hundred
feet high. I measured one which was eight feet in diame.
ter and about two hundred and fifly feet high. As I do not
here intend to enter upon the dendrology of this countr},l|
pass farther remarks upon this subject ibr the present.

There are some tracts of good land, which might easily |
be brought under cultivation, in difierent parts of this mous.
tainous and iron bound coast. One about Youngs' bay, ei.
tending down to and about Point Adams. This would be a I
favorable location for a missionary station, where access
could be had to the Clatsop and Killamook Indians, who are |
said to be numerous.

At this season of the year, there are but few Indiaml
who reside about this trading post, finding it more for their
comfort to retire into the forests during the rainy season ol|
the winter, locating themselves upon small prairies along ri>
vers and streams, where fuel is easily obtained and where I

It ' .

!:i4i>

A WATER EXCURSION.

149

some game is found to add to their winter's stock of provis-
ions.

During my continuance in this place it was my inten-
tion to cross the bay over to Chenook point, and from thence
down to cape Disappointment, which it is said affords a
very extensive and interesting prospect. But from day to
day it rained, and the high winds created such a sea in the
whole bay, that it was not safe to attempt the passage.

On the 24th, the wind was high, and the weather
very uncomfortable, and in the aft^noon the storm increas-
ed accompanied with snow, which, however, melted as fast
as it fell. The sea fowl appeared to be alarmed by the se-
verity of so early and unexpected a storm of snow, and
came in from the ocean in great numbers, flying and
I screaming, as if in search of a safe retreat.

The storm being somewhat moderated, on the 26th, Mr.
I Dunn, the superintendent of the fort, and myself, for exer-
cise took our rifles to go back into the woods to hunt deer.
But so dense was the forest, so filled and interwoven with
various vint-^ ' shrubbery, that it was next to impossible
|to make any ^less, and ^e did not penetrate the woods
|mor3 than one mile, before we gave up the object, and turn-
ed our course back, which, with diligent efforts, occupied
Iflome hours. If a luxuriant growth of trees and shrubbery
lis indicative of a rich soil, then no part of the world can
surpass the country about these shores.

The morning of the 27th was pleasant and inviting for a
yater excursion ; but on account of sudden changes of weath-
er which are common at this season of the year, I did not
think it best to cross the wide bav, but took four Chenook
Indians and a half breed, named Thos. Pish Kiplin who
could speak English, and went iu a large canoe down to
/latsop and Point Adams .line miles from the fort. There
ras a gentle wind from the east, which favored hoisting a

small sail. This gave us a pleasant sail at the rate of eight
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150

A CBITICAL SITUATION.

miles an hour. By this time the waves had so increased
and the white caps were so numerous that to one not ac.
quainted with nautical adventures, the danger in a canoe
appeared great. We could do nothing, except to run be.
fore the wind, and when we were upon the top of one wave,
it seemed the next plunge would swallow us up. Fears
were of no use in this situation, and I therefore kept up such
conversation as was calculated to suppress any which might
arise in the minds of the men. It was interesting to see how
the Indians would take the waves with their paddles so as
to favor the safety of the canoe. But our rapid progress
soon brought us to the shore near Point Adams. Here a
new difficulty, and unexpected to me, arose, which was,
how should we land in the high surf; but my skilful mar-
iners watched an opportunity to shoot the canoe forward as
far as possible on a flowing wave, and as soon as it broke,
they leaped into the water and seized the canoe and light.
ened it over the returning surge, and drew it up beyond the
reach of the waves. This management was an ocular den. |
onstration of the skill of Indians on dangerous seas. 1
took with me Kiplin and walked several miles on the hard |
and smooth sandy beach, so far around to the south, that I
had a view of the coast north and south, as far as the eye
could reach. High, and in most parts perpendicular, ba.
Baltic rocks lined the shores. Who but that Being, who
sets bounds to the sea, and has said to the proud waves,
hitherto shalt thou come and no farther, reared these vol. |
canic walls ? This vast expanse of ocean and these stu-
pendous works of God naturally fill the mind with awe.

In returning, I walked several miles, farther than the |
place where we landed, along the shores toward Youngs'
bay, and went on board the brig Lama, Captain McMel, I
which was on its way up to the fort. In my excursion |
about Clatsop and Point Adams, I saw several canoes cou-
taining the dead, deposited as I have already described.

LOSS OF THE WILLIAM AND ANNE.

151

I have mentioned the bar at the mouth of the Columbia^
and Sand island, as dangerous to those who are not well ac-
quainted with the entrance into this river. In the year
1828, the ship William and Anne was cast away a little
within the bar. All on board, twenty-six in number, were
lost, and it could not be ascertained what were the circum-
stances of the lamentable catastrophe, as no one was left to
tell the story. There were conjectures that after the ship
had run aground, the Indians for the sake of plunder killed
the crew. This is only conjecture ; but it is very strange,
that as they were not far from the shore, and the beach was
sandy, that none escaped. The Indians carried off and se-
creted whatever of the goods they could find. The men of
the Hudson Bay Company sent to the chiefs to deliver up
what they had taken away. They sent Dr. McLaughlin at
Fort Vancouver two small articles of no value. Doct. M*
I with an armed force went down to the Chenooks and de-
j manded a surrender of the goods. The chief with his war~
I riors put himself in the attitude of resistance, and fired
I upon the men of the Hudson Bay Company. They re*
j turned the fire with a swivel, not to injure them, but to let
them know with what force they had to contend, if they
I persisted in their resistance. On this the Indians all fied
into the woods. The doctor with his men landed and
searched for the goods, many of which they found. Whilst
I they were searching, the chief was seen skulking and draw-
ing near — and cocked his gun, but before he had time to
fire, one of the white men shot him down. None besides
were hurt. This was done, as the men of the Hudson Bay
I Company say, not so much for saving the value of the prop-
I erty, as to teach the Indians not to expect profit from such
disasters, and to take away temptation to murder white men
I for the sake of plunder.

On the 23d of May, 1830, the ship Isabella was cast away
upon a sand-bar projecting from Sand island, which is a

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162

OTHER DISASTERS.

little within the capes. As soon as she struck, the men all
deserted her, and without stopping at Fort George, made
their way to Fort Vancouver. It is thought, that if they
had remained on board and waited the tide, she might have
been saved. The cargo was mostly saved.

In 1811, the Tonquin, sent out from New York by Mr.
Astor, to form a fur trading establishment at or near the
mouth of this river, lost eight men in crossing the bar,
The calamity resulted from the ignorance of Captain Thorn
of the dangers, and his great want of prudence.

About thirty miles south of this river, there are the re.
mains of a ship sunk not far from the shore. It is not
known by whom she was owned, nor from what part of the
world she came, nor when cast away. The Indians fre.
quently get bees- wax from her. It is not improbabable that
she was from some part of Asia.

A Japanese junk was cast away, fifteen miles south of
cape Flattery in March, 1833. Out of seventeen men only
three were saved. In the following May, Captain McNeil
of the Lama brought the three survivors to Fort Vancouver,
where they were kindly treated by the gentlemen of the
Hudson Bay Company, and in the following October, they
were sent in one of their ships to England, to be forwarded
to their own country and home. This junk was loaded
with rich China ware, cotton cloths, and rice. In the same
year eleven Japanese, in distress, were drifted in a junk to j
Oahu, Sandwich islands. It is not a very uncommon thing,
that junks and other craft have been found by whale ships
in the great Pacific ocean, in a state of starvation, without
the nautical instruments and skill of mariners to enable I
them to find their way to any port of safety. Undoubted-
\y many are entirely lost, while others drift to unknown
shores.

May not the above facts throw light upon the original
peopling of America, which has engaged the attention of I

Km-

■ •*

DIFFERENT THEORIES OF ORIGIN.

153

men for a long period. While one man demonstrates to hi»
own satisfaction, that the first inhabitants of this continent
must have crossed from the north-east part of Asia, because-
of the resemblance of the people to each other, and the ease
with which the strait is passed in canoes — another with noi
less certainty, proves from the diversity of languages, from*
the impossibility of tracing their origin, and from other
reasons, that an equinoctial union of Africa and America
must have existed in some age of the world i^nce the uni>
versal deluge, and some violent convulsion of nature has*
since dissevered them. Others would confine them to the
descendants of the Jews, and industriously trace in their
customs, the ancient worship, and rites of God's peculiar
people. Some see in them the confirmation of their favor-
ite theory, that human institutions and states, like human
and vegetable nature, have their birth, growth, maturity, and
decay ; and believe that, as it respects these tribes, these
tendencies have already, for centuries, been in operation ta
produce their extinction. But from whatever single or nu»
i merical causes they have had their origin, their own tradi-
tions and the histories of more civilized nations seem unable
I to inform us. Physical causes alone, we think, are ade-
quate to account for the many features of resemblance
which they possess, even though they might, at different
and distant periods of time have been drifted, or in any oth-
|er manner found their way,, from remote countries.

About this time of the year, water fowl of various genera
land species begin to visit the bays and lagoons, and as the
season advances, they gradually proceed into the interior of
the country, and the rivers and lakes abound with them.
[Geese, swans, ducks, and gulls, wing their way over us, and
their screams, particularly of swans, are at times almost deaf-
ening. The swan is not the one common in the United States.
It is the Bewick's swan, but is characterized by the same
unsullied plumage, its attitudes and motions, while sailing

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154

BETUBN TO FORT VANCOUVES.

over its liquid element, are equally graceful, and its voice
even louder and more sonorous. Of the geese there are
four kinds ; the white, white fronted, the Canada, and Hutch.
ins. Of the ducks, there are the black or surf duck, the
canvass-back, the blue-bill, the long-tailed, the harlequin,
the pin.tail, and the golden-eyed. The number of these
water fowl is immense, and may be seen on the wing, swim.
ing upon the waters, or searching for their food along the
shores. They constitute a large item of Indian living ajid
trade, and find a conspicuous place upon the tables of the
gentlemen engaged in the fur business.

Wednesday, October 28th. I took passage on board a
canoe, going on an express from the Lama, recently arrived
from a northern voyage to and about Queen Charlotte's
island, to Fort Vancouver. The canoe was large, carrying
about fifteen hundred weight including men and baggage,
manned by three white men and three Indians. The day
was pleasant, more so than any we had had for many past,
which was a favorable circumstance for passing through
the bay, and around Tongue Point where the current wai
80 strong, that it required the full exertion of the men to
double it. Ten miles further we passed Pillar Rock, a few
miles above which we encamped on the north shore, where
the mountains came down so close to the shore, that we |
hardly found room to pitch my tent above high tide water.
The men maue a large fire, which was cheering and com.
fortable, and the supper which they prepared was eaten with
a keener appetite than many a one amidst all the applian-
ces of wealth and luxury.

On the 29th, arose before day, and was willing to take I
an early departure from a place where tide and mountains
disputed territory. By diligently pursuing our way until
eight in the evening, we made forty-five miles, which was a
great day's work in going up the river against the current,
which is strong when the tide is setting out. I noticed on

REGARD FOR THE DEAD.

155

my return a singular rouky point on the north shore, a short
distance below the Cowalitz, rising nearly perpendicularly
about one hundred feet high, separated from the adjacent
highhillS) and very much in the form of Coffin-rock. It was
covered with canoes containing the dead. These deposito.
ries are held in great veneration by the Indians. They are
not chosen for convenience, but for security against raven-
ous beasts; and are often examined by the friends of the de-
ceased, to see if the bones of their dead repose in undisturb-
ed quiet. And such is their watchful care, that the anato-
mist could rarely make depredations without detection, or
with impunity. And if they have such regard for their
dead, are they without affection for their living relatives
and friends? Are they "callous to all the passions, but
rage ?" Are they " steeled against sympathy and feeling ?'*
And have they no happiness except what "exists in the vis-
ionary dreaming of those, who never contemplated their ac-
tual condition 1" Have those, who charge upon the Indian
character " sullen gloom, want of curiosity and surprise at
what is new or striking,"had extensive personal acquaintance
with many different Indian nations and tribes ; and have they

! gained their familiar friendship and confidence ? I am firm
in the belief, that the character of unabused and uncontam-
inated Indians will not lose in comparison with any other
nation that can be named ; and the only material difference
between man and man, is produced by the imbibed principles

{of the christian religion.
Wishing to avail ourselves of calm weather and a favor-

lable monn, we kept on our way in the evening until thick,
enin^; clouds and descending rain admonished us of the nc-
cessity of finding an encamping place ; and while doing this,

Iwe ran upon a log, which came very near upsetting us in

[deep water. But by two men getting out upon the log and

Ihfting the canoe, with much exertion we got off safely.

lAfter passing round a point we saw a light on the north

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156

INDIAN KINDNESS.

shore, to which we directed our course and landed, where
we found a small company of Indians encamped under a
large projecting rock, giving shelter from the storm. They
kindly shared their accommodations with us, and my tent
was pitched under the concavity of the rocks ; and mats,
«kins, and blankets made me a comfortable bed upon small
stones. A good fire and refreshing supper obliviscited the
labors of the day and dangers of the evening.
*'j-: Arose on the 30th, before day, and although it was a rainy
morning, yet it was sufficiently calm for the express to pros.
ecute their voyage. I so managed my mats and skins as to
shield myself and baggage from the rain ; but the men
whose business it was to propel the canoe were exposed to
the chilling rain ; and after a few hours' labor and exposure,
we arrived at the place where the May Dacre had made her
harbor, near where the southern section of the Williamette
discharges its waters into the Columbia. We brought our
canoe into a small bay indented in the basaltic rocks, and
drew it so far upon the shore, that it was thought safe with-
out any other security ; and all hastened to kindle a fire |
in a thatched building, which was constructed by some Kan.
akas for the accommodation of the May Dacre. This shel-
ter was very desirable to protect us from the storm and to I
give the men an opportunity to dry their clothes. Wliilst
we were preparing and eating our breakfast, the flowing tide,
which swells the river and slackens the current, but does not j
stop it, took our canoe from its moorings, and drifted it a
considerable distance down the river. Some Indians whose |
residence was far up the Cowalitz, and who were descend.
ing in their canoes down the river, saw it, and returned I
with it before we knew it was gone. This act proved them
to be susceptible of kindness, and increased my confidence
in their integrity. It was of too much importance to go|
unrewarded. The canoe contained valuable baggage, ai
we should have been left without any means of going on curl

ARRIVAL AT VANCOUVER.

157

way. We could not have crossed the Willamette nor Co-
lumbia river, and in addition the wood and undergrowth are
next to impassable. Before the middle of the day, the
storm abated, and the remainder of our way to Fort Van-
couver was pleasant, at which place we arrived before even-
ing. We were less than three days in accomplishing the
passage from one fort to the other, and these were the only
three calm days for a long time before and after.

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168

WINTER aUABTEBS.

CHAPTER XI.

iReview of jouriieyings— school— journey up the Willamette— walk upon
the pebbly shore — falls- -settlement on the Willamette— methoditi
mission— epidemic— voyage down the river— hospitality of Wanaxki-
construction of his house — Fort William on the Wappatoo island— as-
tonishing thirst for ardeni spirits^retum to Fort Vancouver.

Here, by the kind invitation of Dr. McLaughlin, and |
Welcomed by the other gentlemen of the Hudson Bay Cora.
pany, I took up my residence for the winter ; intending to I
make such excursions as the season may admit and the ob.
ject of my tour may demand. As this is the principal trad.
ing post of the company, west of the Rocky Mountains, it I
may be expected, that many Indians from different parts of
the country for considerable distance around, may be seen
here during the winter, and more information obtained of their
character and condition than could be in any other course I
could pursue. Here also traders from different stations west
of the mountains will come in for new supplies, of whose |
personal acquaintance with Indians I may avail myself.

Sabbath, November lst» By invitation, I preached teal
congregation of those belonging to this establishment who
understand English. Many of the laborers are French Ca]
nadians who are Roman Catholics, and do not understandl
English.

This trading post presents an important field of labor;!
fi>r if a christian influence can be exerted here, it may tie|
of incalculable benefit to the surrounding Indian population.!
Let a branch of Christ^s kingdom be established here,
its concomitant expansive benevolence exerted and difTui
ed, then this place would be a centre, from which divin

ir»5'-

REVIEW OF J0URNBYING8.

159

liffht would shine out, and illumine this region of darkness.
fhis is ^^ object of so much importance, that all my powers,
gnd energies, and time, must be employed for its accom-
plishment ; so that I do not feel that I have a winter of idle
confinement before me, but enough labor which needs to be

Idone.

Monday, 2d. In taking a review of my journeyings since

1 1 left my home, I can say, though long in time and distance,

yet it has been pleasant and full of interest. So diversified

I has been the country through which I have passed, and so

varied the incidents, and so few real hardsiiips, that the

time and distance have both appeared short. Although this

mission was .thought by the Secretaries of the Board to be

one which would probably be attended with as grer t, if not

greater, dangers and deprivations than any which tliey have

Isent into any part of the world, yet my sufferings have been

small, and my mercies so great, that I can say, that if

[this is taking up the cross let none be dismayed ; for surely

Ichrist's yoke is easy and his burden light. I had thought

Iffluch on the prospect of having an opportunity to se^

|vhether I could << rejoice in sufferings" for the heathen,

'and fill up that which is behind of the afflictions of Christ

lin my flesh for his body's sake, which is the church," but

(the protecting providence of God was so conspicuous and

bis mercies so constant, that the opportunity did not appear

ko be presented. As to want, I experienced only enough to

{teach me more sensihly the meaning of the petition, '* give

this day our daily bread ;" and the truth was '^omfort-

|ing, that '* the Lord giveth to all their meat in dut^ season."

can say, " hitherto the Lord hath helped me." I do not

know what awaits me, but I still trust the Lord will carry

ne through, and return me in safety.

I am very agreeably situated in this place. Half of a new

[louse is assigned me, well furnished, and all the attendance

Khich I could wish, with access to as many valuable books

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160

SCHOOL.

88 1 have time to read ; and opportunities to ride out for ex.
ercise, and to see the adjoining country, as I can desire ;
and in addition to all these, and still more valuable, the so.
ciety of gentlemen enlightened, polished, and sociable.
These comforts and privileges were not anticipated, and
therefore the more grateful.

There is a school connected with this establishment for
the benefit of the children of the traders and common la.
borers, some of whom are orphans whose parents were at.
tached to the company ; and also some Indian children, who
are provided for by the generosity of the resident gentlemen.
They are instructed in the common branches of the En.
giish language, such as reading, writing, arithmetic, gram.
mar, and geography ; and together with these, in religion
and morality. The exercises of the school are closed with
singing a hymn ; after which, they are taken by their teach.
er to a garden assigned them, in which they labor. Find.
ing them deficient in sacred music, I instructed them in
singing, in which they made good proficiency, and developed
oxcellent voices. Among them there was one Indian boy,
who had the most flexible and melodious voice I ever heard.

It is worthy of notice, how little of the Indian complei.
ion is seen in the half-breed children. Generally they have
fair skin, often flaxen hair and blue eyes. The children of
the school were punctual in their attendance on the three
services of the sabbath, and were our choir.

Monday, Nov. 28d. The weather being pleasant, though
generally very rainy at this season of the year, and wish.
ing to explore the country up the Willamette river, I era.
braced an opportunity of going with a Mr. Lucier and
family, who were returning in a canoe to their residence
about fifty miles up that river. Doctor McLaughlin fur*
nished and sent on board a large stock of provisions, three
or four times more than I should need, if nothing should oc
cur to delay us, but which was a wise precaution. Wc leA

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JOURNET UP THE WILLAMETTE.

161

Fort Vancouver about one o'clock in the afternoon, and pro.
ceeded five miles down the Columbia to the entrance of the
Multnomah, and about fifteen up the Willamette before we
encamped. The name Multnomah, is given to a small sec-
tion of this river, from the name of a tribe of Indians who
once resided about six miles on both sides from its conflu*
ence with the Columbia, to the branch which flows down
the southern side of the Wappatoo island ; above this sec-
tion it is called the Willamette. The tide sets up this river
about twenty miles, to v/ithin a few miles of the falls, and
through this distance the river is wide and deep, afibrding
rrood navigation for shipping.

Tiie country about the Multnomah, and also some miles
up tiie Willamette, is low, and much of it is orverflowed in
the June freshet ; but as we ascend, the banks become high-
er, and are more generally covered with woods.

Mr. Lucier told me he was well acquainted with the
country around ; tliat a little back from the banks of the
river, there are fine tracts of rich prairie, sufficiently inter-
spersed with woods for all the i)urposes of fuel, fencing, and
lumber. As we advanced, a chain of mountains, running
from the south-east to the north-tvest, and which crosses the
Columbia river below Deer island, runs some distance near
and below the falls along the west shores of this river.
There are probably as many Indians who navigate with
their canoes this river, as any of the rivers in the lower
country ; many of whom I had an opportunity of observ-
ing tcday in their busy pursuits, the strokes of whosc^ pad-
dles broke in upon the general silence. One company over-
took us towards evening, and encamped with us upon the
elevated shore on the east side of the river. Owing to the
dampness of the day, and previous rains we had some dilH-
culty in making a fire, but at length it was accomplished,
and the wood was unsparingly applied. With my tent

pitched before a large fire, under the canopv of wide branch-

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162

FALLS OF THE WILLAMETTE.

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ing trees, I partook of the stores of my large wicker basket
with as much satisfaction as could be felt in any splendid
mansion. The blaze of dry crakling fir threw brilliancy
around, softened by the dark forest, like the light of the astral
lamp ; and the burning balsam perfumed the air. The lat.
ter part of the night, I suffered more with the cold than at
any time in all my journeying, not having taken with me
as many blankets as the season required.

The morning of the 24th was overcast with clouus, and
rendered chilly by a mist settled near the surface of the riv.
er, and which collecting in a beautiful frosting upon the sur-
rounding trees, exhibited one of those picturesque fancies,
which works of art may imitate, but which only nature can
perfect. Soon after resuming the labor of the day, we
passed several basaltic islands, some of them of sufficient
magnitude to enclose a few acres, others only rocky points,
between which the current was strong, requiring much ef.
fort to make headway. Part of the way from our last en-
campment to the falls, which was six miles, I walked along
upon the pebbled shore, where I found calcedony, agate, jas.
per, and carnelian, of good quality. Two miles below the
falls, there is a large stream which comes in from the south-
east, called Pudding river. Its entrance makes a strong
current, which we found difficult to stem, and once we were
drifted back in spite of all our effi)rts ; but on the second
attempt wc succeeded. We arrived at the falls of the Will-
amette at one o'clock in the afternoon and hired eight
Clough-c-wnll-hah Indians to carry the canoe by the falls,
the distance of half a mile, and proceeded about five miles
farther and encamped. These falls with the scenery around
have much to charm and interest. The river above spreads
out into a wide, deep basin, and runs slowly and smoothly
until within a half mile of the falls, when its velocity in-
creases, its width diminishes, eddies arc formed in which the
water turns back as if luih to make the plunge, but u

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SETTLEMENT ON THE WILLAMETTE.

163

•it!

forced forward by the water in the rear, and when still near-
er it breaks upon the volcanic rocks scattered across the
channel, and then as if resigned to its fate, smooths its agi-
tated surges, and precipitates down an almost perpendicular
of twenty five feet, presenting a somewhat whitened column,
[t was a pleasant day, a mI ^he rising mist formed in the
ravs of the sun a beautiful bow ; and the grass about the
falls, irrigated by the descending mist, was in fresh green.
The rocks over which the water falls, and along the adja-
cent shores, are amygdaloid and basalt. The opportunities
here for water power are equal to any that can be named.
There cannot be a better situation for a factory village than
on the east side of the river, a dry, wide-spread level extends
some distance, and the shores form natural wharves for
shipping. The whole country around, particularly the east
side, is pleasant and fertile. And can the period be far dis-
tant, when there will be here a busy population ? I could
hardly persuade myself that this river had for many thou-
sand years, poured its waters constantly down these falls
without having facilitated the labor of man. Absorbed in
these contemplations, I took out my watch to see if it was
not the hour for the ringing of the bells. It was two o'clock
land all was still, except the roaring of the falling water.
I called to remembrance, that in the year 1809 I stood by
the tails of Genesee river, and all was still except the roar
of the cataract. But it is not so now ; for Rochester stands
Inhere I tnen stood.

Wednesday, 25th. As soon as the day dawned, we went
[on board the canoe and pursued our way up the river which
for thirtv miles runs from a westerly direction, and at half
past one, we arrived at McKey's settlement. This and
Jfirvis' settlement twelve miles above, contain about twenty
families. The men are mostly Canadian Frenchmen with
Indian wives. There are a very few Americans. The
Frenchmen were laborers belonging to the Hudson Bay

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164

FINE COUNTRY METHODIST MISSION.

Company, but have left that service, and having famiUes they
have commenced farming in this fertile section of country,
which is the best of the Oregon Territory which I have as
yet seen. It is well diversified with woods and prairies,
the soil rich and sufficiently dry for cultivation, and
at the same time well watered with small streams and springs.
These hunters recently turned to farmers, cultivate the most
common useful productions, — wheat of the first quality to as
great extent as their wants require. A grist mill is just
finished which adds to their comforts. They have a com.
mon school in each settlement instructed by American
young men, who are competent to their business.

The forest trees are mostly oak and fir, the latter grow.
iig remarkably tall. The misletoe, attached to the body
and large branches of the oak, is very common. Beautiful
dark green bunches of this plant, seen upon the leafless
trees of winter, excites admiration that its verdure should
continue, when the trees, from which it derives its life and
support, are not able to sustain their own foliage.

I rode on Thursday the 26th twelve miles to the upper set.
tiement. and was delighted with the country. For richness
of soil and other local advantages, I should not know where
to find a spot in the valley of the Mississippi superior to this.
I saw on the way a large number of horses, lately brought
from California, fattening upon the green luxuriant grassof|
I he prairies.

Near this upper settlement, a short distance up the river, I
the methodist church of the United States have established
a mission among the Calapooah Indians of whom there are
but a few remaining. Rev. Messrs. Jason Lee and Daniel
Lee are the ordained missionaries, and Mr. Shepard teacher.

Their principal object of labor, for the present, is by
means of schools. They had at the time of my visit four-
teen Indian children in their school supported in their fam>

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EPIDEMIC.

165

ily, and the prospect of obtaining others as fast as they can
accommodate them. Their facilities for providing for their
school are good, having an opportunity to cultivate as much
excellent land as they wish, and to raise their necessaries of
life in great abundance with little more labor than what the
scholars can perform for their support. The missionaries
have an additional opportunity of usefulness, which is to es-
tablish a christian influence among the people of these in-
fant settlements. Mr. J. Lee preaches to them on the sab-
bath, and they have a very interesting sabbath school among
the half-breed children. These children generally have fair
complexions, active minds, and make a fine appearance.
The prospect is, that this mission may lay a foundation for
extensive usefulness. There is as yet one important desid.
eratum — these missionaries have no wives. Christian white
women are very much needeed to exert their influence over
Indian females. The female character must be elevated,
and until this is done but little is accomplished ; and females
can have access to, and influence over, females in many de-
partments of instruction to much better advantage than
men. And the model, which is furnished by an intelligent
and pious family circle, is that kind of practical instruction,
I whether at home or abroad, which never fails to recommend
the gospel.

At the time of my continuance in this place, an epidemic
prevailed among the Indians, of which several persons died.
In some respects it was singular. The subjects of the com-
plaint were attacked with a severe pain in the ear almost in-
I stantaneously, which soon spread through the whole head
with great heat in the part affected ; at the same time the pulse
became very feeble and not very frequent — soon the extremi-
ties became cold and a general torpor spread through the whole
system except the head — soon they were senseless, and in a
short period died. In some cases the attack was less severe,

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166

HOSPITALITY OP WANAXKA.

and the patient lingered, and after some days convalesced, or
continued to sink until death closed his earthly existence.

Friday, Nov. 27th, I rode out with Mr. J. Lee several
miles south to see more of the country. The same rich,
black soil continued, furnishing nutritive grass in abun.
dance ; and also the same diversity of wood and prairie.
This valley is very wide east and west, generally about fifty
miles ; and far more extended, north and south.

Towards evening we attended the funeral of an Indian
boy, who belonged to the school, and who died last night
with the epidemic. Most of the children of the school and
sabbath school attended, and conducted with propriety.

On Saturday I returned to McKey's settlement to fulfil
an appointment to preach to the inhabitants on the sabbath.
I put up with Mr. Edwards who is temporarily attached to
the mission, but now teaching school in this settlement.

Almost the whole of the inhabitants of this settlement
assembled on the sabbath, and made a very decent coDgre.
gation ; but not more than half could understand English.
After service I was called to see a Mr. Carthre, who was
taken severely with the epidemic. I bled him, which gave
him immediate relief, and applied a blister, and as I after-
ward learned, he recovered.

Early Monday morning of the 30th, McKey furnished
me with two young Indians to take me in a canoe to the
falls, where we arrived safely at three o'clock in the after.
noon. Here I engaged two Indians belonging to a small
village of Claugh-e-walUhah Indians, who have a permanent
residence a little below the falls. Wanaxka, the chief,
came up to the falls, where I was about to encamp alone for I
the night, and invited me toahare his hospitality at his house.
I hesitated what to do, not that I would undervalue his kind.
ness, but feared such annoyances as might prevent my rest.
On the other hand there was every appearance of a cold, I
heavy storm, very little wood near, which I could procure

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CONSTBUCnON OF HIS HOUSE.

167

for a fire with only my hatchet, and I should be alone, ex-
posed to ravenous wild beasts — the latter consideration,
however, I scarcely regarded. But believing it would please
the chief, should I accept his invitation, I went with him
to his dwelling, which was a long permanent building on the
west side of the river, up an elevation of one hundred feet,
and near which were several other buildings of nearly the
same dimensions. Besides the family of the chief, there
were two other families in the same building, in sections
about twenty feet apart, separated from each other by mats
hung up for partitions. Their houses are built of logs split
into thick plank. These Indians do not sink any part of
their buildings below the surface of the earth, as some of
the Indians do about and below the Cascades. The walls
of the chief's house were about seven feet high, the roofs
are more steeply elevated than what is common in the Uni-
ted States, made of the same materials with the walls, only
the planks are of less thickness* They have only one door
to the house, and this is in the centre of the front side.
They have no chimneys to carry off the smoke, but a hole
is left open above the fire-place, which is in the centre of

I each family's apartment. This answers very well in calm
weather, but when there is much wind the whole building
becames a smoke house. The fire-place of the chief's apart-
ment was sunk a foot below the surface of the earth, eight
feet square, secured by a frame around, and mats spread
upon the floor for the family to sit upon. Their dormitories

(arc on the sides of the apartment, raised four feet above the
floor, with moveable ladders for ascent ; and under them they

Istow away their dried fish, roots, berries, and other effects.

iThere was not an excess of neatness within, and still less

Iwithout. The Indians in the lower country, who follow
Ashing and fowling for a livelihood arc far from being so

Ineat as those in the upper country who depend more upon

|thc chase^ The latter live in moveable lodges and frequent^

•• •

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168

FOBT WILLIAM.

PIP-*

ly change their habitations. But these Indians were also
kind. They gave me most of one side of the fire-place
spread down clean new mats, replenished their fire, and
were ready to perform any service I should wish. I i^t
them fill and boil my tea-kettle, after which I spread out my
stores so bountifully provided by Doct. McLaughlin and
performed my own cooking. During the evening, the chief
manifested a disposition to be sociable, but we had but a
very little language common to us both, besides the language
of signs. The next thing, when the hour of rest arrived,
was to fortify myself against a numerous and insidious en.
emy. I first spread down the cloth of my tent, then my
blankets, and wrapped myself up as securely as I could, and
should have slept comfortably, had I not too fully realised
my apprehensions.

As soon as daylight appeared, on December 1st, I left the j
hospitable habitation of Wanaxka, and with my two In.
dians proceeded down the Willamette about sixteen miles I
before we landed for breakfast. I find a great difiference in
going with or against the current of these rivers. Since
going up this river, the number of swans and geese had great.
ly multiplied upon the waters and along the shores. Theiil
noise, and especially that of the swans, echoed through I
woods and prairies. The swan is a beautiful and majestic I
fowl ; its large body, long neck, clear white, and majestic
movements place it among the very first of the winged tribe.
The common seal are numerous in this river. It is veryl
difiicult to shoot them with the best rifles, on account ofl
their diving with extreme suddeness at the flash. I bad a
fair opportunity to shoot one to-day, but with one splash hel
was out of sight and did not again appear. When I camel
to the north-western branch of the Multnomah, I proceededl
down four miles to Fort William on the Wappatoo island,!
an establishment which belongs to captain Wyeth and Com-f

I.:

LOVE OF ARDENT SPIBITS.

169

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pany. The location is pleasant and the land around is of
the first quality.

Here some months ago a man named Thornburgh was
killed by another named Hubbard, both from the United
States. A controversy arose between them about an Indi-
an woman. Thornburgh was determined to take her from
Hubbard even at the risk of his own life. He entered H.'s
cabin in the night armed with a loaded rifle. H. saw him
and shot him through the breast and pushed him out of the
door. Thornburgh fell and expired almost instantly. A
self-created jury of inquest aat upon the body of Thorn-
burgh, and brought in a verdict, that he lost his life by the
hand of Hubbard in self-defence.

In Thornburgh there was an instance of a most insatia-
ble appetite for ardent spirits. Mr. Townsend, the orni-
thologist, whom I have before mentioned, told me he was
encamped out for several days, some miles from Fort Wil-
Ham, attending to the business of his profession ; and that
in addition to collecting birds, he had collected rare speci-
mens of reptiles, which he preserved in a keg of spirits.
Several days after he was in this encampment, he went to
bis keg to deposit another reptile, and found the spirits
gone. Mr. Townsend, knowing that Thornburgh had been
several times loitering about, charged him with having
drank off the spirits. He confessed it, and pleaded his thirst
as an apology.

On Wednesday the 2d, I returned to Fort Vancouver well
pleased with my excursion. The weather was generally
pleasant, free from winds and heavy storms. There are no
high mountains, nor hills which would not be capable of
cultivation) and when this valley shall be filled with inhab.
itants and farms spread out in high cultivation, it will be
second to only a few parts of the world. I found the peo-
ple of the fort in their usual active business pursuits, and I

received a renewed cordial welcome.
15

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170

SERVICES ON THE SABBATH.

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CHAPTER XII.

Services on the sabbath — obstacles to the gospel — discouraging case—
i;<anner of spending time — description of Vancouver fur and farming
establishment— garden productions — lumber— commerce — peltries-
system of the Hudson Bay Company— waste of life — hardships of a
hunter's life — their perseverance— christian principle— worldly principle.

Sabbath, 6th. I attended three services, morning, after-
noon, and evening, and expect to continue them during my
residence in this place. Through the week there will be but
few opportunities to do much for the spiritual benefit of the
common laborers ; for in this high northern latitude, the
days in the winter are so short that the men are called out
to their work before day, and continue their labor until near
dark ; and as their families do not understand English, I
have no direct means of benefiting them.

There is another circumstance which operates against
the prospects of benefiting many of the population here,—
the common practice of their living with their families
without being married. They do not call the women with
■whom they live, their wives, but their women. They know
they are living in the constant violation of divine prohibi.
tion, and acknowledge it, by asking how they can with any
consistency attend to their salvation, while they are living
in sin, and are not willing to break off their sins by righ-
teousness. I urged the duty of entering into the marriage
Delation. They have two reasons for not doing so. One
18, that if they may wish to return to their former homes
sand friends, they cannot take their families with them.
The other is, that these Indian women do not understand

THE HUDSON BAY COMPANY.

171

the obligations of the marriage covenant, and if they, as
husbands, should wish to fulfil their duties, yet their wives
might through caprice leave them, and they should be bound
by obligations, which their v ives would disregard.

There is no doubt, but that this subject is attended with
real difficulties, but are they insurmountable ? Has God
given a law, which if obeyed would not secure our greatest
and best good ? Is it preferable " to enjoy the pleasures of
sin for a season," to denying ourselves of all ungodliness,
and taking up the cross by which eternal salvation ma
be obtained ? And what would the enjoyment the whole
world can give, profit a man, if he should lose his sou! ?
But I could not believe, that if these men should marry the
women with whom they live, and do all they could to in-
struct them, and treat them with tenderness and respect,
that there would be many cases of their leaving their hus-
bands. And whatever might be the results, they had better
suffer wrong, than do wrong. If the Holy Spirit should
convince them of sin, what would they not do to flee from the
wrath to come ? But their social comforts are so strongly
bound with the cords of sin, that they feel, as they express
their own case, that it is useless to make any eflfbrts to ob-
tain spiritual freedom, until they shall be placed in diflferent
circumstances.

As much of my time, through the week, was occupied in
study, and in digesting facts connected with the natural sci-
ence of the country west of the Rocky Mountains, and the
character and condition of the Indians, which came under
my observation at diflferent times and places ; and also that
which I should ol)tain from persons whose testimony could be
relied upon and which came under their personal observation,
I shall give them without particular dates.

I have already mentioned my agreeable disappointment,
in finding so many of the comforts of life, atdifierent trad-
ing posts of the Hudson Bay Company ; also I have given.

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THE HUDSON BAY COMPANY.

a brief description of the local situation of Fort Vancou.
ver. These were taken from such observations as I could
make in a hasty view, as I was prosecuting my journey to
the shores of the Pacific ocean. This e?ta'f li Uiment was
commenced in the year 1824. It being -i cof?:'!"y that
the gentlemen, who are engaged in transacti^^g ihe business
of the Company west of the mountains, and their laborers,
should be better and less precariously supplied with the ne.
cessaries of life, than what game furnishes ; and the ex.
pense of transporting suitable supplies from England being
too great ; it was thought important to connect the business
of farming with that of fur, to an extent equal to their ne.
cessary demands, and as this fort is the central place of
business to which shipping come, and from which they
depart for different parts of the north- west coast, and to
which, and from which, brigades of hunting parties come
and go ; the principal farming business was established here,
and has been progressing until provisions are furnish.
ed in great abundance. There are large fertile prairies,
which they occupy for tillage and pasture, and forests for
fencing materials and other purposes. In the year 1635, j
at this post, there were four hundred and fifty neat cattle,
one hundred horses, two hundred sheep, forty goats,
and three hundred hogs. They had raised the same year
five thousand bushels of wheat, of the best quality I ever
saw ; one thousand three hundred bushels of potatoes ; one
thousand of barley, one thousand of oats, two thousand of j
peas, and a large variety of garden vegetables. This est!.
mate does not include the horses, horned cattle, &c. and
produce raised at other stations. But little however, is done
at any of the others, excepting Colville the uppermost post
on the northern branch of the Columbia. The garden of I
this station enclosing about five acres, is laid out with regu.
larity and good taste. While a large part is appropriated

I-

ii? '•

THE HUDSON HAY COMPANY.

173

to the common esculent vegetables, ornamental plants and
flowers are not neglected. Fruit of various kinds, such as
apples, peaches, grapes^ and strawberries, for the time they
have been introduced, flourish and prove that the climato
and soil are well adapted to the purposes of horticulture.
Various tropical fruits such as figs, oranges, and lemons,
have also been- introduced, and grow with about the same
care as they would require in the latitude of Philadelphia^

In connection with this business and farming establish-
ment, the Company have a flour.mill worked by ox power,
which is kept in constant operation and produces flour of
excellent quality ; and a saw-mill with several saws, which
is kept in operation most of the year; This mill, though
large, does not with its several saws furnish more lumber
than a common mill would, with one saw, in the United
States. There being no pine below the Cascades, and but
verv little within five hundred miles of the mouth of the
Columbia river, the only timber sawed in this mill is fir and
oak. Besides what lumber is used in the common business
about this station, one and sometimes two ship loads, are
sent annually to Oahu, Sandwich islands, and is there called
pine of the north-west coast. Boards of fir are not so daw
rable, when exposed to the weather, as those of pine, ner so
easily worked. One half of the grain of each annual
growth, is very hard, and the other half soft and spungy,
which easily absorbs moisture and causes speedy decay.
There is a bakery here, in which two or three men are in
constant employment, which furnishes bread for daily
use in the fort, and also a large supply of sea biscuit for the
shipping and trading stations along the north-west coast.
There arc also shops for blacksmiths, joiners and carpen-
|lers, and a tinner.

Here is a well-regulated medical department, and a
jhospital for the accommodation of the sick laborei*s, in

which Indians who are laboring under any diflicuU and dan^
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174

THE HUDSON BAY COMPAKY.

gerous diseases are received, and in most cases liave gratu.
itous attendance.

Among the large buildings there are four for the trading
department. One for the Indian trade, in which arc
deposited their peltries ; one for provisions ; one for goods
opened for the current year's business, that is, to sell to tiitlr
men and to send off to various fur stations ; and another
for storing goods in a year's advance. Not less than a ship
load of goods is brought from England annually, and aiwavb
at least one in advance of their present use, so that if any
disaster should befall their ship on her passage, the business
of the Company would not have to be suspended. By this
mode of management, there is rarely less than two ship
loads of goods on hand most of the time. The annual ship
arrives in the spring, takes a trip to Oahu, during the sum.
mer freighted with lumber to the island, and bringing back
to Vancouver salt and other commodities, but generally noi
enough for ballast ; and in the last of September, or in Oc-
tober, she sails for England with the peltries obtained dur*
ing the preceding year.

The fur business about the Rocky Mountains and west,
is becoming far less lucrative than in years past ; for
flo extensively and constantly have every nook and
corner been searched out, that Ix uver and other valu-
able fur animals are becoming very scarce. It is ra-
tional to conclude that it will not be many years before this
business will not be worth pursuing in the prairie country
south of the 50*^ of north latitude ; north of this, in tlic
colder and more densely wooded regions, the business will
not probably vary in any important degree.

But very few Americans who have engaged in the fur
business beyond the Rocky Mountains have ever succcedwi
in making it profitable. Several companies have sustained
great loss, and generally owing to their ignorance of the
country » and the best mode of procedure. The lIudiH)D

THE Hl'DSON BAY COMPANY,

175

Bay Company have reduced their business to such a system,
that no one can have the charge of any important transac-
tions without having passed through several grades of less
important business, which constitutes several years' appren-
ticeship. Their lowest order are what they call servants,
(common laborers.) All above these are called gentlemen,
l)ut of different orders. The lowest class are clerks, then
chiet'*^^ lerks ; next traders, and chief-traders ; factor.'^, and
chief.factors ; and the highest, governors. Of the last
office there are only two ; one resides in London, who is at
the he -d of the whole business of the Company, and the
other resides in Montreal, Upper Canada. There ire only
two chief.factors west of the mountains, John McLaugh-
lin, Esq. and Duncan Finlayson, Esq. and with them are
associated in business several chief-traders and traders, and
chief-clerks and clerks. The salaries of the gentlemen are
proportioned to the stations they occupy. This being their
system of carrying on business, no important enterprise is
ever intrustr d to any inexperienced person.

It is worthy of remark, that comparatively few of all
those who engage in the fur business about, and west, of the
Rocky Mountains, ever return to their native land, and to
their homes and friends. Mr. P. of Fort Walla Walla
told me, that to keep up their number of trappers and hunt-
ers near, but west, of the mountains, tlu were under the
necessity of sending out recruits annually, about one-third
of the whole number. Captain W. has said, that of more
than two hundred who had been in his employment in the
course of three years, only between thirty and forty were
known to be alive. From this data it may be seen that the
life of hunters in these far western regions averages abouC
three years. And with these known facts, still hundreds
and hundreds are willing to engage in the hunter's life, and
expose themselves to hardships, famine, dangers, and death.
The estimation has been mudo from sources of correct

4 ,.

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176

CftBlSTIAN PRINCIPLE.

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information, that there are nine thousand white men in the
north and in the great west, engaged in the various depart,
ments of trading, trapping, and hunting. This number in-
cludes Americans, Britons, Frenchmen, and Russians, and
it is more than one hundred and fifty years since white men
penetrated far into the forests, in their canoes freighted with
goods, coasting the shores of the remote lakes, and follow,
ing up the still more remote rivers, to traffic with the In.
dians for their furs, not regarding hunger, toils, and dangers.
These enterprises have been extended and pursued with avid.
ity until every Indian nation and tribe has been visited bv
the trader.

What is the power of that principle which draws thou.
sands from their country, and their homes, a.id all tiie ties
of kindred ? Is the love of gain and hope of wealth the
motive by which courage and daring are roused, and dan.
gers defied ? And shall Christianity be a less powerful prin.
ciple ? Has it only furnished twenty or thirty missiona.
ries, whose sole motive is to carry the gospel to the many
ten thousand Indians in the wide extended country, over
which are raijging nine thousand traders, trappers, and
hunters ? Are these the only evidences the church of God
can give of sincerity in her professions of attachment to
Christ, and to the interests of the immortal soul ? It" 8o,
then christians surely must sutfer in comparison with world.
ly men, and our heavcn-descendo'' religion, if judged of by
its restricted fruits, must Ix^ deemed unworthy of its natno
and origin. But this want of christian enterprise, charac-
terized by the late period in which it is begun, and curried
forward with such slow and faltering steps, is not only lo
be lamented as a blot upon the christian name, but ineom-
parably more is if to Iki lamented that in consequence, ^ven-
eration after generation «f the heathen, to say nothing ol
the tlionsands who are ttafficking among them, aie let't in
their ignorance of t!ie Savior to perish etenmllv* How

CHRISTIAN FBINCIPLE.

177

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\on<f shall it be, that when an adventurous man forms a plan
for traffic in far distant wilds, in a short time a company is
formed with a capital of fifty thousand dollars, and a hun-
dred men are found to face hardships and dangers, and they
are away ? But when a christian heart is stirred up to go
and carry the gospel to some far distant Indian nation, he
may plead and plead for four men and two thousand dol.
lars, and perhaps plead in vain. But it is said a great deal
is DOW doing for the heathen world. How much ? As much
as to give Jive ministers to the United States. All that is do.
ing for the conversion of the heathen is not more than what
it would cost to build, and man, and defray the expenses, of
one ship of war.

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178

INDIAN POPULATION.

CHAPTER XIII.

Indian population — diseases— mortality— attributed to cultivation of
the soil — destitute of medical science — holidays — customs at home-
customs of the Indians — resemblance to Jewish customs in punishinent
— marriage contracts— condition of the females— slavery — division into
tribes— two points of dissimilariiy— sacrifices- language.

I have found the Indian population in the lower counfrv.
that is, below the fulls of the Columbia, far less than I ha(i
expected, or what it was when Lewis and Clarke made thoir
tour. Since the year 1829, probably seven-eightiis if not, as
Doct. McLaughlin believes, nine-tenths, have been swept
away by disease, principally by fever and ague. The ma.
lignancy of this disease may have been increased by predis.
posing causes, such as intemperance, and tiie general yprcad
of venerea, since their intercourse with sailors. But a more
direct cause of the great mortality was their mode of treat.
nient. In the burning stage of the fever they plunged
themselves into the river, and continued in the water until
the heat was allayed, and rarely survived the cold stace I
which followed. So many and so sudden were the deaths
which occurred, that the shores were strewed with the iiii.
buried dead. Whole and large villages were depopulattfi
and some entire tribes have disappeared, the few remainiii!;|
persons, if there were any, uniting themselves with other
tribes. This great mortality extended not only from the
vicinity of the Cascades to the shores of tlte Pacific, hut tar
north and south ; it is said as far south as California. The
fever and ague was never known before the year 1829, and
Doct. McLaughlin mentioned it as a singular circumslanceJ
that this was the year in which fields were plougheu for thel

HOLIDAYS.

179

first time. He thought there must have been some connec-
tion between breaking up the soil and the fever. I inform-
od him that the same fever prevailed in the United States,
about the same time, and in places which had not before
lieen subject to the complaint. The mortality after one or
two seasons abated, partly for the want of subjects, and part-
Iv from medical assistance obtained at the hospital of Fort
Vancouver. The mortality of Indians and their sufferings
under diseases are far greater thu'x they would be, if they
were furnished with a knowledge of medicine. Indian doc-
tors are only Indian conjurers. But I shall have occasion
to say more upon this subject when I describe Indian cus-
toms.

December 25th, The holidays arc not forgotten in
these far distant regions. From Christmas until after New
Years, all labour is suspended, and a general time of indul-
gence and festivity commences. Only this once in the
vhole year are ardent spirits given to the laborers, when
[they have a free allowance, giving them the opportunity to
exhibit fully what they would do, if spirits were easily and
always accessible. On Clu-istmas morning they dress them-
selves in their best attire, accelerated movements are seen
in every direction, and preparation is made for dinners,
whicli are sure to be furnished in their first style, and grcat-
lest profusion ; and the day passes in mirth and hilarity.
IBut it does not end with the day ; for th'^ passions and ap-
Ipctites pampered t* ougli the day, prepare the wuy for the
Inight tu be spent with dancing, and the loud and hoisterouB
^augh, shouts, and revelry, consume the hours designed for
rest. They continue these high-strung convivialities un-
pl they pass the portals of the new year, when labor and
jtoii take their place.

Such too often are the customs of Miosc who profess to be
nser and better people. The expiring year vanishes,
inidst the noise and revels of many, who proless by such

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180

CUSTOMS AT HOME.

methods to honor the birth of our Savior, and theintroduc.
tion of that only religion, which requires perfect purity and
perfect order. And too many give as they profess, but a
decent honor and respect to tiiose festival days, when from
house to house of their best or more indifferent friends, the
wine is circulated until they become genteelly inebriated.
And is it so, that these days are baptized with the name of
holy days ? The piety of primitive christians undoubtediv
led them to observe the supposed anniversary of our Sav.
ior's birth, but whenever such uncommanded observances are
greatly abused, the same piety will exert itself to bring about
a reformation ; and if this cannot be done, then to abolish
the custom altogether. Hezekiah king of Judah, in the
case of the brazen serpent, which was preserved as a nie.
morial of the salvation wrought instiamentaliy by it for
those who were bitten by the fier}' serpents, destroyed it
when the people idolized and burned incense to it. Anda^
the holidays are so generally abused and are become days
of revelry, all friends of t iety should cease from their obser.
vancc and do all in their power to obviate the evils.

The question whetiier there is any evidence that the In.
diana arc descended from tlic Jews, though frequently and
largely discussed, has not been satisfactorily answered.
From all the personal observations I could make, and clfortg
at examination, I could not obtain any thing conclusive up.
on the s'ioject, but am very much induced to believe their
origin will remain as problematical in future, as it has been
infimc past. There are some things in their belief and
customs which favor the idea, that they are of Jewish de.
scent. Their ontir'i freedom from idolatry is a peculiar
chamcteristic, by which th^y are distinguished from all oth
er heathen. It will be remeinbered, that the propensity ol
the Jews to idolatry was entirely subdued from the time
their captivity in Babylon. Among the Indians boyoi
the mountains, I found no idols, nor any appearance of id

[oVP

lESBMBLANCE TO JEWISH CUSTOMS.

181

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atry. They believe in only one God, and all their worship,
so far as they have any, is offered to Him, or as they would
say to the Great Spirit. They believe in the immortality
fif the soul, and future rewards and punishments. They
have no sacrifices, their minds are perfectly open to receive
any truth in regard to the character and worship of God.
They l»ave their superstitions which I shall mention in
another place.

Their custom of punishing the crime of murder, if it does
not differ from that of all other heathen nations, yet co-
incides with what was the custom of the Jews. The near-
est relatives of the murdered person are the " avengers of
blood," the executioners, or "pursuers of blood." They
kill the murderer, if they can find him ; and in their own
tribe or nation, they do not extend the punishment to any
other person, so that " the fathers are not put to death for
the children, neither are the children put to death for the
lathers ; every man is put to death for his own sin." As
the Jews did not regard other nations with the same be-
nevolence as their own, so the Indians make a distinction
between their own tribe or nation, and others. If one is
killed by a person belonging to another nation, if they can-
not obtain and put the miirdcrcr to death, they will take the
hfe of some of tiie relatives of the murderer ; or, if they
jail of this, some one of tr.e nation must atone for the cr'me.
And if this cannot be done immediately, the debt of blood
will still be demanded, though years may pass away l)eforc
it is cancelled.

There is also some resemblance in their marriage con-
tracts. The negotiation is commenced, if not completed,
with the parents of the intended bride, as in the case of

ac's r.arrying Rebekab. Abraham directed his servant

jto jTo to his kindred and take a wife for his son Isaac. Ho

m\i, and when God had shown him that Rebekah was the

ppointed person, he first consulted her father and brother
16

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182

RESEMBLANCE TO JEWISH CUSTOMS.

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and when their approbation was obtained Rebekah's appro.
val closed the contract, and presents were made to the sever.
al members of the family. The customs of the Indians are
substantially the same. The bridegroom negociates with the
parents, and the approbation of the daughter being obtain.
ed, the stipulated commodities are paid and the man takes
his wife. But as much or more is given in dowry to the
daughter. The presents and dowry are proportioned to the
rank and wealth of the contracting parties. Wanaxka, the
first chief of the Clough-e-wall-hah Indians, has refused
more than one hundred dollars for a beautiful daughter,
whom I saw when I shared the hospitality of his house. A
chief at the La Dalles has refused two horses and six blank,
ets, together with several other articles of smaller value.!
It is not however to be understood that marriage is a mere
mercenary transaction ; for fancy and choice have tlieirin.
fluence with them, as well as among more refined people.

Another resemblance between the Indians and the im
may be traced in the estimation in which their females arc!
held. No doubt the degradation of Indian women is to 1
attributed in a large degree to iheir heathenism, and that ud]
uncivilized and savage state in which we find them ; yet ig
their respective occupations we find some features which ar
not dissimilar. Among those nations and tribes who doi
possess slaves, the women cut and prepare wood for fire,
well as food for their families, they pack and unpack \l
horses, set up and take down lodges, gather roots and berrie
for food, and dress the skins for clothing, and make then
into garments. So Jewish women drew water for the flock
and camels, and watched over them ; they gleaned the field
in harvest ; they also performed the work of grinding in tli
mill. Our Savior refers to this, when he foretold the destruij
tion of Jerusalem. "Two women shall be grinding in ill
mill, the one shall be taken and the other left."

Slavery was suffered among the Jews, and undoubtc

service v
have no s
live in tb
termarry
one cruel
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Another

RESEMBLANCE TO JEWISH CUSTOMS.

183

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for the same reasons that polygamy was, and the putting
awav their wives by writing a bill of divorcement. While
the great law-giver did not at once abolish the practice, he
brouglit it under modified restrictions. The stealing and
selling a man was punishable with death. If a man lx)ught
a Hebrew servant, the time of his service was not to exceed
six years. Intermarriages took place between these ser.
vants and the families of their masters ; and the betrothed
maid was to be dealt with after the manner of daughters.
The same restrictions were not, however, enjoined in relation
to those bondmen who were bought of the heathen, until the
days of the prophets, when tiiey were commanded to break
every yoke and let the oppressed go free. So also slavery
exists in a modified form among the Indians west of the
moantains, not generally, but only in the nations in the
lower country. They are bought ; taken prisoners in war ;
taken in payments of debts if they are orplians of the debtor ;
bv selling themselves in pledges. They are put to the same
[service which women perform among those Indians who
! have no slaves. They are generally treated with kin Incss ;
ve in the same dwelling with their masters, and often in-
jtermarry with those who are free. They are exempt from
one cruel practice which their masters inflict upon their
own children, the flattening of their heads. The reason,
which those who own slaves assign for flattening their
heads, is, that they may be distinguished from their slaves
I who have round heads.

Polygamy is practised among the Indians, and with near-
lly the same regulations with which it was practised among
Ithe Jews. Though they do not write bills of divorceuient
land put away their wives, yet they send them away on slight
loccasions. But this brings no disgrace upon the woman's
Icharacter, and generally she is soon married to another, and
jol'ten as advantageously.

Another resemblance between the Javfn and the Indians

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164

RB8BMBLANCE OF JKWISH CUfTOXS.

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is fjfie division of their nations into tribes. The tribes of
the children of Israel were the descendant? of distinguished
families and their government was patriarchal. The tribes
among the Indians are constituted much in the same wav.
Some important personage gains an influence, numbers be.
came attached to him ; and though they do not separate
from their nation, nor at once become a distinct tribe, yet
they are denominated a band, and these bands Uk many cases
grow up into tribes.

There are two considerations which should not be passed
over, and which are against the evidences of the Indians
being of Jewish origin. One is, that they have no sacrifices.
In this they not only differ from that nation, but also from
all other nations of the earth, who are not under the influ.
ence of the light of the gospel. If they are of Jewish de.
scent, it is strange that they have not continued the prac
tice of offering up sacrifices, and especially when there is
so general a propensity among men, particularly among the
heathen, to resort to sacrifices to atone for their sins.
Whatever of truth there may be in the statements that the
Indians east of the Rocky Mountains offer up sacrifices,
yet I have not found the least traces of evidence that the
Indians of the west do so.

Tlie other consideration is the want of evidence in
their language* There are several entirely distinct laD>
guages among the different Indian nations. These Ian.
guages are more entirely distinct than the different Ian.
guages of Europe ; for in all the different languages of £u.
rope there are words derived from Latin, common to each, and
which prove a common relation. Now, if the Indians are
descended from the Jews and of course once had a common
language, the Hebrew, then, notwithstanding their depart-
ure by different dialects from their original, might it not be
expected that there would still remain words and idioms in.
dicative of their common origin. But it is not so, as may

BESEMB LANCE TO JEWISH CUSTOMS.

185

lie seen in a vocabulary of a few languages which I shall
subjoin. In their languages there are some words in com-
mon with Latin, Greek and Hebrew, but these are used in an
entirely different sense from that in which they are used in
those languages. As far as it respects language, the proof
of a Jewish, or even of a common origin, is not only doubt-
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CHAPTER XIV.

The various animals beyond the mountaini.

It is generally supposed that wild animals, in all Indian
countries and especially in the far regions beyond the moun.
tains, are very numerous ; but, excepting buffalo within
their range, which is becoming more and more circum-
scribed, game is scarce. In giving an account of animals
beyond the mountains, I shall not go into a minute descrip.
tion of those which are familiar to all classes of persons.

There are four varieties of bears, though it is supposed
there are only two distinct species. This is a point I shall
not attempt to decide. These are the white, grizzly, brown,
and black. The white bear is ferocious and powerful, but
their numbers are so small in the region of the Oregon coun-
try, that they are not an object of dread. But the grizzly
bear is far more numerous, more formidable, and larger,
some of them weighing six or eight hundred pounds. Their
teeth are formed for strength, and their claws are equally
terrific, measuring five inches ; and their feet which are as-
tonishingly large, exclusive of their claws, measuring not far
from ten inches long, and five inches wide. There are some
even larger. The shades of their color vary from very
light gray to a dark brown, always retaining the grizzly
characteristic. Among a multitude of their skins which 1
saw, there were some beautifully dappled, and as large as
buffalo robes. These were held in high estimation. Their
hair and fur is longer, finer, and more abundant than any
of the other classes. They depend more upon their strength
than speed for taking their prey, and therefore generally

♦, • . 't

ANIMALS.

187

lurk in willows or other thickets, and suddenly seize upon
any animal which may be passing near by. The moun-
tain men tell as many wonderful stories about their encoun-
ters with these prodigies of strength and ferocity, as some
mountain travelers tell us about constant battles with the
Blackfeet Indians, and starvation, and eating dogs. Now
I may be considered deficient in a flexible and fruitful im-
agination, if I do not entertain my readers with 07ie bear
story, after having traveled thousands of miles over prairies
and mountains, through valleys, ravines, and amongst caves
and chasms. But ae I did not myself have any wonderful
encounters, I must borrow from a gentleman of established
good character belonging to the Hudson Bay Company, who
gave me an account of a case which he witnessed. He
and a number of others were traveling in canoes up the
Athabasca river, and on a morning one of their hunters
shot upon the shore a large cub of a grizzly bear, which
they took on board a canoe, and of which they made their
supper on encamping for the night. While seated around
their fire in conversation, the supposed mother of the slain
cub approached, sprang across the circle and over the fire,
and seized the hunter who had shot the cub, threw him
across her shoulder, and made off with him. They all laid
hold of their rifles and pursued, but feared to fire lest they
should hurt their companion. But he requested them to
fire, which one of- them did and wounded the bear. She
then dropped the first offender and laid hold of the last in
like manner as the first, but more roughly, and accelerated
her departure. There was no time to be lost, and several
fired at the same time, and brought her to the ground. The
last man was badly wounded, but recovered. The " great
medicine" in this case I siiall not attempt to explain, but let
every one account for it in their own way.

The brown bear is less ferocious, more solitary and not
highly esteemed either fbr food or for its skin. The black

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bear is somewhat similar in its habits to the brown, but
lives more upon vegetable food and is more in estimation
for its pure black, well-coated skin.

The raccoon is somewhat numerous in parts of this coun.
try, more especially towards the ocean. I could not discov.
er any difference in their appearance and habits from those
in the United States.

The badger inhabits this country, and is found on the plains
west of the great chain of mountains. Having given a
short description of this animal when passing through the
parts where it was seen, it is not necessary in this place to
make any further remarks.

The weasel, the polecat, the woodchuk, the mink and
muskrat, are common, though not numerous, in this coun-
try, and not differing from those on the eastern part of this
continent, do not need description.

The wolverine is said to inhabit these western regions,
of which I saw one in the Salmon river mountains, whicn
my Indians killed. The animal I saw differed in several
particulars from the description given by Richardson. It
was one foot nine inches from its nose to the insertion of
its tail ; its body not large in proportion to the length, short
legs, small eyes and ears ; its neck short and large as the
head, and its mouth shaped like the dog. Its color was
uniformly a dark brown, nearly black ; and its fur was some
more than an inch long and coarse. I had no opportunity
of observing its habits.

The hedgehog is common in all parts of the Oregon Ter.
ritory, does not differ from those found in other parts of
America, and for its quills is held in high estimation by the
Indians, It is interesting to see with how much ingenuity,
and in how many various forms, the Indians manufacture
these quills into ornamental work, such as moccasons, belts,
and various other articles.

There are three kinds of squirrels — two of which I have

■( .V.

ANIMALS.

189

already described. The third is the gray, which differs
from those in the United States in being larger and its color
more beautifully distinct. I saw many of their skins made
into robes and worn by the Indians about the Cascades.

Of the feline, or cat kind, there are panther, the long
tailed tiger cat, the common wild cat, pnd lynx. The pan.
ther is rarely seen, and the difference of climate and coun-
try produces no change in its ferociousness and other habits,
from those found in other parts of America. The long
tailed tiger cat is more common, very large, and of a dull
redish color. Also the common wild cat is often seen. It
is much smaller, its tail is short and its color is like the
above named. I can only name the lynx, as they did not
come under my observation. It is in the lower, wooded
country they are found, and the Indians say they are nu.
raerous.

There are five different species of wolves ; the common
I gray wolf, the black, blue, white, and the small prairie wolf.
The common gray wolf iS the same as others, found in the
United States, and has all its common habits. The black
wolf, which I did not see, as described by Mr. Ermitinger,
a gentleman belonging to the Hudson Bay Company, is
larger than the gray and more noble in its appearance, and
is the strongest of the wolf kind. Those which the same
[gentleman called the blue wolf, are but rarely seen, as also
Ithe white, and so far as their habits are known, do not ma-
jterially differ from others.

The small prairie wolf is the most common, and bears the
reatest resemblance to the dog, and has been called the
dog. It differs from the dog in all the peculiarities of
lilio wolf kind as much as the others do. It is as uniform
|d its color, size, and habits. They are uniformly of a dull
edish gray, never particolored ; the hair is always long,
blended with a brown fur at its roots ; and like other wolves,
py are always prowling and cowardly. They are more

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numerous than the other kinds, and in considerable numbers
follow the caravans to feed upon the offals. Although we
frequently heard them howl and bark around our encamp,
ments, yet they never disturbed our rest.

Notwithstanding all that has been said about the immense
number of wolves beyond the Rocky Mountains, they are
far less numerous than might be expected. I do not make
this assertion solely from the fact that I saw or heard only
a few, but from the testimony of those, whose long residence
in this country entitles them to credit.

The fox which is so generally dispersed through the world
is found here in three different kinds ; the red, gray, and
silver. They do not differ from those found east of the
mountains. The silver gray fox is scarce, and highly es.
teemed, and takes the highest rank among the furs of com.
merce. Its color is dark, sometimes nearly black, the ends
of the hairs tipped with white, and in addition to the un.
commonly fine texture, the fur presents a beautiful glossy ap.
pearance.

Martins are not abundant; some are found about the
head waters of the Columbia in woody mountains, but they
are more numerous and of superior quality farther north.

The inoffensive, timorous hare, in three different species,
abounds in all parts of this country. Its natural instinct
for self preservation, its remarkably prominent eye, its large
active ear, and its soft fur, are its characteristics in this,
as in other regions. The three species are, the large com.
mon hare, which is generally known, the small chief hare
with large round ears ; and a very small species, but five or
six inches long, with pointed ears. If the first named dif.
fers in any particular from those in the United States, it is
in its manner of running, and its speod. Its bound is not
regular, but its motions arc an alternate running and I
leaping at an almost incredible distance, and with such
swiftness that I frequently mistook it, at first view, for the

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ANIMALS.

191

prairie hen, which I supposed was flying near the surface
of the ground. Its flesh when used for food, is tender and
of a pleasant flavor.

The only dress which many of the Indians have to pro-
tect them from the cold, is made of the skins of these ani-
mals, patched together into a scanty robe.

There is a small species of the marmot of which I have
seen no description in any work on natural history, which
is probably peculiar to this country. It is called by the
Nez Perces, eluet ; is five inches long from the tip of its
nose, exclusive of its tail, which is two in length — its body
is one inch and a third in diameter, the colour is brown,
beautifully intermixed with small white spots upon its back.
jthas eight long hairs projecting from the nose, on each side,
and two over each eye. Its habits resemble those belonging
to its genus. It is remarkably nimble in its movements.
The Indians esteem its flesh a luxury.

Among the animals of the deer kind, elk is the largest
and most majestic. It exists in considerable numbers east
of the Rocky Mountains, but less numerous on tlm west
side. It combines beauty with magnitude and strength,
and its large towering horns give it an imposing appear-
ance. Its senses are so keen in apprehension, that it is
difficult to be approached ; and its speed in flight is so
great, that it mocks the chase. Its flesh resembles beef,
but less highly flavored, and is much sought for by the Indi-
ans and hunters. Its skin is esteemed, and much used
in articles of clothing and for moccasons.

I saw no moose. It is said they are found farther north,
in the more cold and woody regions.

There are three species of deer ; the red, the black-tailed,

and the common American deer. Like those found in

other countries, they are of a mild, innocent, timid aspect ;

elegant in form, with slender, nervous limbs. When any

I object or noise alarms them, they throw up their heads,

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erect and move their ears in every direction to catch the
sounds ; snuff up the wind, and bound off with great ce.
lerity. The deer west of the mountains are more lean and
the flesh less inviting than those found in the United States.
This may arise from the nature of the food to which they
are confined, having less opportunity for browsing, and es.
pecially upon such shrubbery as are congenial to their na-
tures, there being but very few of the sacchariferous kinds
found in their country.

The red deer are generally found about the Rocky Moun-
tains and upon the head waters of the Columbia.

The black-tailed deer, while they are of a dusky sallow
color, like the common American deer, are somewhat dark.
er, and their tails are larger and nearly black, which gi\es
them their name. Their eyes are large and prominent,
their ears are also large and long, and judging from those I j
saw, they are smaller than the common deer. When they
move faster than a walk, they bound.

The antelope, which I have already described, are numer.
ous in the upper and prairie country.

It is hardly necessary to say that the beaver, so noted for
its valuable fur, for its activity, and perseverence, — ^its so.
cial habits, its sagacity and skill in constructing its vil-
lage, and preparing its neat and comfortable dwellings, is
an inhabitant of this country. It has been sought with
avidity and has been a source of wealth to many, but to multi.
tudes, of poverty, misery and death. It would be difficult to |
sum up the woes of the last class.

Its flesh is very good for food, and the trapper and I
hunter depend almost entirely, while in its pursuit, upon it
for subsistence. Although I ate several times the flesh of
the beaver, yet I discovered no evidence of the truth of the
assertion often made, that while the flesh of the fore parts is
of tlie quality of land animals, its hind parts are in smell
and taste like flsh« I should think it would require much

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ANIMALS.

193

assistance from imagination to discover the fish taste.
Here also the otter is found, and is somewhat numerous,
^nd next to the beaver is sought with diligence by the hunt-
er and trader. The shades of its color vary from a light, to
a deep, beautiful brown. The fur is rich and in great de-
mand, and there is none found in any country of better
quality than those skins I saw at different trading posts of
the Hudson Bay Company. Its formation is adapted to
land and water, having short and muscular legs, so articu-
lated as that it can bring them horizontal with its body, and
use them as fins in the water ; and its toes are webbed like
water fowl. It subsists principally upon fish, frogs, and
other aquatic animals. It has a peculiar habit, which seems
to be its pastime, for we know of no other motive it can
havd unless it be the love of amusement, which is to ascend
a high ridge of snow, and with its legs thrown back, slide
down head foremost upon its breast. When there is no
mow, it will in the same manner slide down steep, smooth,
grassy banks.

The sea otter, so highly and justly valued for its rich fur,
is found only along the American coast and adjacent islands
from Kamtchatka to upper California. They vary in
size, are generally about four feet long when full grown,
and nine inches in diameter. Its legs are very short, and its
feet are webbed. Its fur is of the first quality, long and glos-
sy, extremely fine, intermixed with some hairs ; the outside
is black, sometimes, however, dusky, and the inside a cin-
erous brown. They are amphibious, sportive, and often bask
upon the shore for repose, and when asleep the Indians ap-
proach and slay them. They have been so much hunted
for their valuable fur, that they are diminishing in numbers.
The hair seal is very frequently seen in the waters of Co-
lumbia river. Its head is large and round, its eye full and
mild. 1 often saw it swimming after our canoe, presenting to

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gree like the mastiff dog. Its hair is of various colors, g^n.
erally a dappled gray. It rarely goes far from its most na.
tural element, water ; but is sometimes seen basking upon
rocks on the shore, and this is the most favorable opportu.
nity for killing it ; for its motions are so quick in the wa-
ter, that it will submerge at the flash of the rifle, and if kill.
ed in the water it sinks, and is difficult to be obtained.

In enumerating the animals beyond the Rocky Mountains,
I am not able, as might be expected, to describe the Rocky
Mountain, or big-horn sheep, as I did not have an opportu.
nity to see it. I am unwilling to state, as facts, the de-
scriptions of others, especially as there are so many wrong
statements made in natural history. I did not see any of
these animals, which I believe I should have done, if they
were as numerous as travelers have said they are. I saw
their horns, which are enormously large, if their bodies are,
as they are said to be, not much larger than a common deer.
A horn which I measured, was five inches in diameter at its
juncture with the head, and eighteen long. Its flesh, of
which I had an opportunity to eat, was far preferable to the
best mutton. They inhabit the mountains, and are said to
aelect the most rough and precipitous parts where grass is
found. They are not covered with wool, but with hair so
bordering upon wool as to render its coat warm in the win-
ter.

The mountain goat, and sheep, did not come under my
observation. I was anxious to obtain specimens of them,
but failed in obtaining only small parts of their skins, not
sufficient to make a description.

I close with the buffalo, which is of the bovine genus,
and is the largest and the most important for food and gov-
ering of any of the animals in our country. I need not in
this place go into so long description, as otherwise would be
important, having already spoken of them as I was passing |
through their range of country. After having seen thou-

* . -

ANIMALS.

195

sands and ten thousands of them, and having had months
of time to examine their forms and habits, I feel at a loss
whether they are to be classed with the bi Jalo or bison of
the eastern continent. Not with the buffalo if historians
have given a correct description of those on that continent.
The flesh of those is said to be black, hard, and very unpal-
atable ; their hides impenetrable, making leather soft and
smooth, — their race so fierce and formidable, that there is
no method of escaping their pursuit but by climbing up
into some immense tree ; for a moderate tree would be bro-
ken down by them, and many travelers have instantly been
gored to death by them and trampled to pieces under their
feet. It is said their voice is a hideous loud bellow. None
of these things are true of the buffalo of our country.

If a true account has been given of the bison of the
eastern continent, our buffalo differ from them in several
material traits of character and habits. Those of the east-
ern continent are said to have small heads, with horns so
wide spread, that three men can sit between them, — that
their eyes are small, red, and fiery, — that they have a hump
upon their backs like a camel, and which is preferred to be
eaten for its delicacy, — that they are fierce and vindictive,
so that men have to fly to trees for safety, — that the bulls
and cowfi live in separate bands. These things do not cor-
respond with the buffalo or bison of our western prairies.

The buffalo or bison of our countiy are generally about
&s large as our domestic neat cattle, and their long, shaggy,
woolly hair which covers their head, neck, and shoulders,
gives them a formidable appearance, and at a distance
something like the lion. In many particulars they resem-
ble our horned cattle ; are cloven footed, chew the cud, and
eelect the same kind of food. Their flesh is in appearance
and taste much like beef, but of superior flavor, and remark-
ably easy of digestion. Their heads are formed like tlie ox,
perhaps a little more round and broad, and when they rua

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carry them rather low. Their horns, ears, and eyes, as
seen through their shaggy hair, appear small, uad cleared
from their covering, they are not large. Their legs and
feet are small and trim, the fore legs covered with the long
hair of the shoulders as low down as the knee. Though
their figure is clumsy in appearance, yet they run swiftly
and for a long time without much slackening their speed ;
and up steep hills or mountains they more than equal the
best horses. They unite in herds, and when feeding, scat.
ter over a large space, but when fleeing from danger, they
collect into dense columns, and having once laid their course,
they are not easily diverted from it, whatever may oppose.
Their power of scent is great, and they perceive the hunter
when he is on the windwaxd side, at a great distance, and the
alarm is taken, and when any of them manifest fear they
are thrown into confusion, until some of the cows take the
lead to flee from the pursuer, and then all follow at the top of
their speed. So far are they from being a fierce and re.
vengeful animal, they are very shy and timid ; and in no
case did I see them offer to make an attack, but in self de.
fence when wounded and closely pursued, and then they al.
ways sought the first opportunity io escape. When they
run they lean alternately from one jside to the other, l^e
herds are composed promiscuously of bulls and cows, except
some of the old bulls which are often found by themselves
in the rear or in advance of the main bands. Sometimes
tin old blind one is seen alone from all others ; and it was
amusing to see their consternation when they apprehend the
approach of danger. The natural instincts of fear and pnu
•dence lead them to fly alternately in every possible direction
for safety. I was pleased to find our most thoughtless young
men respect their age and pity their calamity ; for in no in.
stance did I see any abuse offered them. They are fond of roll*
ing upon the ground like horses, which is not practised by «ur

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ANIMALS.

197

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domestic cattle. This is so much their diverson, that large
places are found without grass and considerably excava-
ted. The use of their skins for buffalo robes, and their
woolly fur with which they are covered, are so universally
known, that a description is entirely unnecessary. Anoth-
er peculiarity which belongs to them is, that they nev-
er raise their voice above a low bellow ; in no instance were
we disturbed by their lowing, even wlien surrounded by
thousands, and in one of our encampments, it was supposed
there were five thousand near by. It has been said they do
not visit any of the districts formed of primitive rocks.
This is said without reason, for I saw them as frequently in
those districts in proportion to their extent as where other
formations existed. It is also said that as they recede from
the east they are extending west. This is also incorrect ;
for, as I have before said, their limits are becoming more
and more circumscribed. And if they should continue to
diminish for twenty years to come, as they have during the
last twenty years, they will become almost extinct.

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FISH.

j4&4 I;' . •

CHAPTER XV.

'Pish — description of salmon — salmon fishery — dendrology — shrubbery
— nutritive roots— geography— mountains— valleys— plains— forests-
rivers — soil — seasons.

I pass to a brief notice of the fish found in the waters of
the Columbia. Their number is great, but their variety is
small. The salmon, sturgeon, anchovy, rock cod, and trout
are all that I shall mention. The sturgeon of good quality
and in very considerable numbers, commence running the
fore part of April, and give relief to the suffering Indians.
I say suffering ; for before the opening of the spring, their
stock of provisions are consumed, and they are seen search.
ing for roots and any thing which will sustain life ; and
though I do not feel authorized to say what others have said,
that in the latter part of the winter and fore part of the
spring, they die with starvation in great numbers, yet they
are brought to great want, and look forward to the time
when the sturgeon shall come into the river with great so.
licitude. I do not in these remarks include the Shoshones
or Snake Indians. A small fish, like the anchovy, about
six inches long, very fat and well flavored, come into the
river in great numbers about the time, or little before tlie
sturgeon. The Indians obtain large quantities of oil from
them by putting them into a netting strainer and exposing
them to gentle heat.

The rock codfish were not known to inhabit the waters
about the mouth of the Columbia, until the present year.
They are very fine and easily caught.

The salmon is far the most numerous and valuable fish

it' * -

FI6H.

199

found in these waters, and of excellent flavor. It is well
ascertained that there are not less than six different species
of the true salmon that ascend these waters, commencing
about the twentieth of ApriL Their muscular power is ex-
ceedingly great, which is manifested in tiieir passing the
falls and rapids, which it would seem are insuperable. They
are never known to return, but are constantly pressing
their way upwards, so that it is not uncommon to find them
in the «mall branches of the rivers near the very sources.
We found them in September near the Rocky Mountains,
where they are said to be foimd as late as November and
December. I saw some with parts of their heads worn to
the bone, and the skin worn oflT, which appears to be the
result of their efforts to ascend until they perish. Late in
the season, great numbers are found dead, furnishing food
for crows, and even Indians ; for I have seen them drive
away the crows and appropriate the remnants to themselves.
When the salmon become much emaciated, their flesh loses
its rich redness, and it is seen in the skin, which gives the
(ish a beautiful appearance, but when in this state it is hard-
ly palatable. It is worthy of notice, that the salmon has
its preferences of water, selecting some branches of the
Columbia river and passing by others ; and those taken in
some of the tributary streams are far better than those ta-
ken in others. While those which ascend the rivers never
return, their young are seen in September descending on
their way to the ocean, in immense numbers. It is believed
these return the fourth year after their descent ; but this
may be only conjecture. It is difficult to estimate how
many salmon might be taken in these rivers, if proper meas-
ures were pursued ; and also what would be the results upon
the numbers which would continue to enter and ascend. I
think without doubt a plan might be devised and adopted to
I carry on a salmon fishery in this river to good advantage
and profit. The experiment was made by a company from

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FISHERr.

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the United States, which failed, for it contained the elements
of its own overthrow. The company sent out large quanti.
ties of rum, probably calculating on the fact that Indians
are fond of ardent spirits, and if they should gratify this
appetite, they should enlist them in their favor, and as In.
dians will do any thing for rum, they would catch and sell
their fish to them. Whatever the object of the company might
have been in sending and dealing out so much rum, the In.
dians were highly pleased with receiving it in pay for their
salmon. But when they had thus obtained it they would be.
come intoxicated and disqualified for labor, and more time was
wasted in drunkenness, than employed in fishing. Besides
their salmon were often suffered to lie in the hot sun until they
were much injured, if not wholly spoiled. The result was,
that the company, as I was informed, obtained only about |
four hundred barrels of salmon, and made a losing voyage;
and the superintendent of Fort Vancouver told me, that]
when the company abandoned their business they stored
many barrels of rum at his fort. My information was not
wholly derived from those who had been in the employment |
of that Company, and gentlemen of the Hudson Bay Com.
pany, but in part from the Indians. The Indians often I
spoke to me upon the subject by way of praise. They
would say, ^* close, Mas lum" signifying, good, plenty of|
rum.

Having frequently made mention of the trees and shrub- 1
bery west of the great mountains, I shall in this place only
enumerate the principal, describing a few. J have said there
are three species of fir, and that they constitute far the
greatest part of the forest trees, and are very large. The
three kinds are the rod, yellow, and white. They not onlyj
differ in the color of the wood, but also in their foliagc.|
The foliage of the red is scattered on all sides of the branch.
lets in tiie same form as those found in the United States;]
the yellow only on the upper side, or the upper half of the

lit! ■

OENDBOLOGY.

201

mgs ; the white is oppositely pinnated. The balsam is
alike in the three different species, found in blisters upon
the bark in the same form as in other countries.

White pine is not found in the lower country, nor far
ffest of the main chain of the Rocky Mountains ; a few
pitch are found in the same region with the white. Nor-
way and yellow pine are found farther west, but not below the
Cascades. The new species, which I have called the elas-
tic pine, is far the most numerous, but I did not see any of
tiiese as far west as Walla Walla.

The cedar is the common species, grows very large and
tall, and is the best of any of the forest trees for various
mechanical uses. The yew is also found among the ever-
greens, though it is scarce. The tamarisk is found in small
sections of the country. The white oak of good quality,
and often large, is a common tree of the forests, and also the
black, rough.barked oak, grows in some of the mountainous
parts. In an excursion down the rich plains below Fort
Vancouver, where there are trees scattered about like shade
trees upon a well cultivated farm, I measured a white oak,
which was eight feet in diameter, continued large about thir-
ty feet high, and then branched out immensely wide, under
which Mr. J. K. T. and myself, with our horses, found an
I excellent shelter during a shower of rain. There are two
kinds of ash, the common wiiite ash and the broad leafed.
The latter is very hard. There is also alder, which I have
I mentioned as growing very large and on dry ground as well
I as on that which is low and swampy.

There are three species of poplar, the common aspen, the
I cotton, and balm. The first is common in various parts of
the United States, and is well known ; the second commonly
called cotton.wood, skirting rivers and streams as in the west-
em states; the third is the bitter cotton-wood, but is that
which is often called the balm of Gilead. Its distinguish-
ing properties are oblong leaves, and a bitter balmy sub-
stance in a glutinous state found in the small twigs but

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SHRUBBERY.

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mostly in the buds. This last species in some places spreads
over large sections of bottom-land, where the soil is uncom.
monly good. White maple is found, but only in small quan.
tities. Willows are very common. There is a tree in the
lower country which grows much in the form of the laurel
or bay tree, but much larger, — the bark is smooth and of a
bay red color, its leaves are ovate. It has been called the
strawberry tree, but I do not know with what proprietv.
There are no walnut or hickory trees west of the great
mountains, nor chestnut of any species, or hard or sugar
maple, or beach, lind or bass-wood, black cherry, cucumber,
white wood, elms, or any kind of birch, except a species of
black birch which grows small ; nor are there any of the
species of locusts, hackberry, or buckeye. I might length.
en out the catalogue of negatives, but the above observations
are sufficient to give a general view of the forest trees ofj
the country.

The variety of shrubbery and plants is so numerous, that I
it would employ the botanist many months in their exarai.
nation. I shall only sketch a few of those which are scat.
tered over the prairies and through the forests. Amongl
these are several varieties of the thorn-bush, many of whichl
are large and fruitful. Those bearing the red apple present!
when they are ripe, a very beautiful appearance. There isl
one species peculiar to the country west of the mountains,!
the fruit of which is black and of a delightful sweet tastej
but not generally dispersed through the country. It is prin.|
cipally found about the Blue Mountains, the Walla Walla
and Ummatilla rivers. The choke cherry is common to alll
parts of the country, and its fruit is very grateful whera
animal food is principally depended upon for subsistence]
The salalberry is a sweet and pleasant fruit, of a darlj
purple color, and about the bigness of a grape. Tlie ser]
viccberry is about the bigness of a small thorn apple, blacli
when fully ripe, and pleasantly sweet like the whortleberry i

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■'A--'

PLANTS.

203

and the pambina is a bush cranberry. The varieties of
the gooseberry are man), — the common prickly, which
grows very large on a thorny bush, — the small white, which
is smooth and very sweet, — the large smooth purple, and the
smooth yellow, which are also of a fine flavor. All of thcje
attain to a good maturity, and those growing on the prai-
ries are very superior. There are three varieties of the
current, the pale red, the yellow, which is well tasted, and the
black. Though these are a pleasant acid, yet they are not
60 prolific and desirable as those which grow under the
hand of cultivation. The beautiful shrub called the snow-
drop, which is found in some of our gardens, grows here
wild and in great abundance.

Besides the common raspberries, there is a new species
i which grows in the forests, the berry, which is three times
as large as the common, is a very delicate, rich yellow, but
I the flavor is less agreeable. There is a new species of
I sweet elder which I have already described. The vining
I honeysuckle is among the first ornaments of nature.

The sweet flowering pea grows spontaneously, and in
I some places ornaments large patches of ground. In some
small sections red clover is found, diflering, however, from
the kind cultivated by our farmers, but not less sweet and
beautiful ; white clover is found in the upper and mountain.
ous parts. Strawberries are indigenous, and their flavor
I more delicious than any I have tasted in other countries.

Wild flax I have mentioned and described on page eighty-
isix.

Sun-flowers are common, but do not grow large ; also a
Ispecics of broom corn is found in many places of the bot-
tom-lands of the Columbia and other streams. To these
may be added a wild grain somewhat resembling barley, or
Irye.

Among the nutritive roots, I have mentioned the w&ppa-
Itoo and the camraas. The w&ppatoo is a bulbous root, the

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204

GEOGRAPHT.

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common sagittafolia or arrow head, and is found only in the
valley of the Columbia below the Cascades. It becomes
soft by roasting and is a nourishing and palatable food, is
much used by the Indians, and is an article of trade. It
grows in shallow lakes, and in marshes which are covered
with water. The Indian women wade in search of this
root, feel it out in the mud and disengage it with their feet
when it rises to the surface of the water and is saved. The
cammas, a tunicated root, is one of great importance to the
Indians, and grows in moist, rich ground, in the form of an
onion. It is roasted, pounded, and made into loaves like
bread, and has a licorice taste. The cowish, or biscuit root,
grows on dry land, about the size of a walnut, or considera.
bly larger, tastes like the sweet potato, is prepared in thej
same manner for food as the cammas, and is a tolerable]
substitute for bread. To these may be added the racine
amere, or bitter root, which grows on dry ground, fusiform J
and though not pleasant to the taste, yet is very conducive!
to health ; also the common onion, and another characteri-
zed for its beautiful red flower, which often grows upon patcli.|
es of volcanic scoria where no other vegetation is seen.

Although a description of the Oregon Territory has beenl
necessarily interwoven in the narrative, yet a condensed|
account of its geography may with propriety be given here.
In comparing the country west with that east of the moun.
tains, especially the great valley of the Mississippi, we ai
impressed very powerfully with the strong contrast whicl
their distinguishing features present. The valley of ik
Mississippi may be called the garden of the world— €ver}j
part abounding in rich soil inviting cultivation. We «
no barren or rocky wastes, no extended swamps or marshei
—no frozen mountains. Destitute of prominent land-markj
to catch the eye of the traveler, he sees in the wide distaiK
before him onlv the almost horizontal lines of level or roll]
ing meadow. No one points him to the peaks of dim moui

wards a
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MOUNTAINS,

205

tains and tell him that the range divides two sister states,
or separates two noble rivers. He sees no clouds resting
on the shoulders of lofty Butes and blending their neutral
tint with the hazy blue of the landscape before him — nor
Tetons rearing their heads into the region of perpetual
snow — and day after day, he pursues his journey without
any thing to create in his bosom emotions of the grand
and sublime, unless it be the vastness of the expanse.

Beyond the Rocky Mountains, nature appears to have
studied variety on the largest scale. Towering mountains
and wide extended prairies, rich valleys and barren plains ;
and large rivers with their rapids, cataracts, and falls, pre-
sent a great diversity of prospect. The whole country is
so mountainous, that there is not an elevation from which
a person cannot see some of the immense ranges which in-
tersect its different parts. On an elevation a short dis-
tance from Fort Vancouver, five isolated conical mountains,
from ten to fifteen thousand feet high, whose tops are cov-
ered with perpetual snow, may be seen rising in the sur»
rounding valley. There are three general ranges, west of the
rocky chain of mountains, running in northern and south-
ern directions. The first above the Falls of the Columbia
river ; the second at and below the Cascades ; the third to-
wards and along the shores of the Pacific. From each of
these, branches extend in different directions. Besides
these there are those in different parts which are large
and high, such as the Blue Mountains south of Waila Walla,
—the Salmon river mountains between Salmon and the
Cooscootske rivers ; and also in the regions of Okanagan and
Colville.

Between these mountains are wide spread valleys and
plains. The largest and most fertile valley is included be-
tween Deer island on the west, to within twelve miles of
the Cascades, which is about fifty-five miles wide, and ex-

tending north and south to a greater extent than I had the
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206

VALLEYS — PLAINS FORESTS.

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means of definitely ascertaining ; probably from Pugetg
sound on the north to the Umbiqui river on the south.
The Willamette river and a section of the Columbia are in.
eluded in this valley. The valley south of the Walla Walla
called the Grand Round is said to excel in fertility. To
these may be added Pierre's hole and adjacent country ;
also Racine Amere east of the Salmon river mountains.
Others of less magnitude are dispersed over different parts.
To these may be subjoined extensive plains most of which
are prairies well covered with grass. The whole region of
country west of Salmon river mountains, the Spokein woods
and Okanagan, quite to the range of mountains which cross
the Columbia at the Falls is a vast prairie covered with
grass, and the soil is generally good. Another large plain,
but which is said to be very barren, lies off to the south-
west of Lewis' or Snake river, including the Shoshones'
country ; and travelers who have passed through this have
pronounced the interior of America a great barren desert;
but this is drawing a conclusion far too broad from premis.
es so limited. So far as I have had opportunity for obser-
vation, I should feel warranted in saying, that while some
parts of the Oregon Territory are barren, large parts are
well adapted to grazing ; and other parts, though less ex.
tensive, to both tillage and grazing.

Upon the subject of forests, I would only observe, that a
large proportion of the country west of the mountains is
destitute, while some parts are well supplied. I have al.
ready mentioned the lower country^ from below the Falls of
the Columbia to the ocean, as being well wooded, and in
many parts, especially near the ocean, densely. The moun-
tains north of the Salmon river, and the country about the
Spokein river, and so on still farther north, are well supplied.
In some other sections there are partial supplies.

The country in general is well watered, being intersected
with lakeS) and many large rivers and tributary streams.

RIVERS — SOIL^oSEASONS.

207

This might be inferred from the fact that there are so many
mountains, upon the sides and base of which are multitudes
of the finest springs. No country furnishes water more
pure and of crystal clearness. As the spring and summer
beat commences, the snows of the mountains melt, and be-
gin to swell the rivers the first part of May, and continue
to increase until June, when the freshet is the greatest, and
overflows large sections of the low lands of the valleys, and
gome parts present the appearance of inland seas. No part
of the world furnishes superior advantages for water power.
The seasons. These are divided into two ; the rainy in
the winter, commencing in November and terminating in
May ; the dry season in the summer, which is entirely desti-
tute of rain, and during which time the atmosphere is remark-
aWy serene ; and the daily prairie winds relieve the heat of
the sun, and the season is most delightful. The climate is
far more temperate and warm west of the Rocky Mountains
than east in the same latitude, there being at least eight de-
grees of latitude diflTerence, as may be seen by the subjoin-
ed meteorological table* There were only three days in the
whole winter of my residence in the country, that the ther-
mometer sunk to 22° Fahrenheit, at Fort Vancouver. Snow
does not fall deep excepting upon the mountains ; in the
valleys, it rarely continues but a few days, or at the farthest
only a few weeks ; and by the latter part of February or
the first of March, ploughing and sowing is commenced.
And not only is the climate uncommonly delightful, but it is
also healthy, there being scarcely any prevailing diseases,
except the fever and ague in the lower country, which, as
has been stated, commenced in 1829 ; and ophthalmy which
is very general among the Indians of the plains. It is
worthy of notice, and is remarkable, that thunder and light-
ning are seldom witnessed west of the mountains, but in
the valley of the Mississippi, it is very frequent and un-
usually heavy.

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GEOLOOY.

CHAPTER XVL

Geology.

I proceed to a more general view of the geology of this
country, which has only been taken up in detached parts.
However quiescent the present stale of the earth is, yet
in this whole region west of the great dividing range of
mountains, there have been astonishing geological changes,
and we are compelled to believe that the whole has been a
great volcanic furnace. Wo are driven to this belief for a
rational and satisfactory solution of the existing phenome.
na. The whole country, from the Rocky Mountains on the
east and Pacific ocean on the west, and from Queen Char,
lotto's island on the north to California on the south, pre-
sents one vast scene of igneous or volcanic formation. In.
ternal fires appear to have reduced almost all the regular
rock formations to a state of fusion, and then through fis.
sures and chasms of the earth to have forced the substances
which constitute the present volcanic form. Such has been
the intensity and extent of this agency, that mountains of
amygdaloid and basalt have been thrown up ; and the same
substance is spread over the neighboring plains, to what
depth it is not known ; but from observations made upon
channels of rivers, and the precipices of ravines, it is evi-
dcntly very deep. The tops of some mountains are spread
out into horizontal plains, some are rounded like domes, and
others terminate in conical peaks, and abrupt eminences of
various magnitudes, which are numerous, presenting them-
selves in forms resembling pillars, pyramids, and castles.

The basalt in this section of country is of a dark color,

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GEOLOGY.

209

from which it appears that augite is one of its ingredients.
Xhe same is indicated by the obsidian, or volcanic glass,
which is black, and is harder than glass, and easily strikes
fire with steel.

There are several regularly formed craters, but these, pre-
senting themselves in depressions or in cones, are rendered
obscure by the lapse of time. That volcanoes have cxisl d
there can be no doubt ; but that they luivo been in fictive
operation recently is more uncertain. There was an un-
commonly dark day at Fort Vancouver, and in its vicinity,
in August, 1831, which some have thought must have been
caused by smoke from an eruption of a volcano. The
whole day was nearly as dark as night, except a little
red, lurid appearance, which was perceptible until near
night. Lighted candles were necessary through the day*
The atmosphere was filled with smoke, ashes, and leaves,,
some of the latter were scorched, and the ashes were very
light, like the white ashes of wood ; all having the appear*
ance of being produced by great fires, and yet none were
known to be in any part of the whole region around. The
day was perfectly calm without any wind. For a few days
after, the fires out of doors were noticed to burn with a
bluish flame, as though mixed with sulphur. There were
no earthquakes. By observations, which were made after
the atmosphere became clear, it was thought the pure, white,
perpetual snow upon Mount St. Helens was discolored,
presenting a brown appearance, and therefore it was con-
cluded, that there had been upon it a slight eruption. The
Indians say they have seen fires in the chasms of Mount
Hood. TilkT, the first chief of the La Dalle Indians, who
is a man of more than ordinary talents, said he had fre-
I quently seen fires iu the fissures of rocks in the last named'
[mountain.

Leaving the subject of recent volcanoes, the enquiry ari-

Isei, when were those fires in operation, which have produc-

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210

GEOLOGY.

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ed such mighty effects, and spread such devastations ? I
th I uk evidently after the flood, and with a very few excep.
tions, very near the time of that memorable event. I am
led to this conclusion, from the fact that no fossil remains
are found in any part of this whole region, with two or
three exceptions^

I have improved every opportunity which has been pre-
sented to make observations ; and have also made many-
enquiries of men who have traveled extensively and for a
long time in different parts of this country, some of whom
are men of science. No evidence of fossil remains have
been noticed by them, with the exception of two specimens,
one a piece of bone, the other a small shell — a Turritella.
The latter, which I saw, was found in a mountain south of
Mount Hood, in the Callapooa country. If this large re-
gion was the abode of animals, they and all fossil remains
must have been destroyed, by that powerful heat, which has
changed all the natural formations. It is not to be sup.
posed there were no fossil remains here as in other coun.
tries, for in the country about and above the arctic circle,
where these evidences of volcanic fires are not found, yet
organic remains are found in alluvial soils, and in the an-
nexed masses of ice ; and of such animals as inhabit warm
climates only. The mammoth elephant, and the fossil re-
mains of many other animals, are found in Eschscholtz,
north of Behring's straits, and in Siberia, near the mouth
of the Lena. The geological formations in and about
Eschscholtz bay are primitive, presenting granite and mica-
ceous slate in their natural position,proving that the northern
regions have not undergone the igneous changes which have I
taken place in these. In the cliffs of Eschscholtz, where
the fossil bones are found, and on the banks below, pebbles
of basalt mixed with pebbles of porphyry are found, and
also a few large blocks of basalt. But there were no rocks otj
basalt noticed, from which these stones could have been del

OEOLOGT.

211

rived. It is thought by those who observed them, that they
were brought to their present situation by oceanic currents.
It is stated by travelers and historians, that in all the far
northern regions of Asia, there is scarcely a large river, in
the banks of which there are not found the fossil remains of
elephants and other large animals ; that from their lofty,
precipitous and sandy banks, fossil ivory is extracted, and
collected for sale ; and although those fossils are found in
every climate and latitude, yet those obtained in the frozen
regions of the arctic circle are by far the best. In some
places, also, the bones of large and small animals lie piled
together in heaps : but commonly, they are scattered as if
they had been displaced by waters, and buried in mud and
gravel. Now if these immense volcanic fires, which have
changed nearly all the rock formations of this country, into
amygdaloid, basalt, lava, and obsidian, had existed before the
Hood, and ceased their operations, with some few exceptions
before, or at the time of the flood, why do we not find
here as well as in the higher regions of the north, and in
most other parts of the world, fossil organic remains ? They
certainly might be expected. If it is asked, why the revolu-
tion, by which the fossil mammoth elephant, and many oth-
er animals have become extinct, and by which their remains
have been deposited in the earth, is ascribed to the flood ?
The following might be offered in reply ;

The animals whose remains are found in the frozen re-
gions of the north, and whose natures required a warm cli-
mate, must have been carried and deposited there by such
agency. Facts are against the theory, that the high re-
gions of the north had a climate as warm as the tropics are
at the present time. If they had,, and a gradual change
took place, how could any animal become incased in ice or
frozen earth, without the flesh having undergone decompo-
sition or decay. The mammoth elephant which was dis-
covered in a cliff* of a peninsula in Siberia, near the mouth

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of the Lena, and was disengaged and fell in the year 1803
must have been suddenly and entirely enveloped soon after
its death, and at a period of intense cold, which intensity of
cold must have continued ever since. This is inferred from
the fact that its flesh, skin, and hair were in a fresh and
well preserved state, when found by Mr. Adams. The fossil
elephant according to Cuvier differs widely from the Asiatic
or the African elephant. Mr. Adams, after having given
a description of the mammoth elephant, farther remarks :
" In various places were seen enormous pieces of wood, of
all the kinds produced in Siberia, and also mammoth horns
(tusks) in great numbers, appeared between the hollows of
the rocks ; they were all of astonishing freshness."

Before this time, in 1771, a rhinoceros was found entire,
with its skin, flesh, and tendons well preserved in frozen soil
in the banks of the Wiluji, a branch of the Lena. Can it
be supposed that these animals inhabited these cold and fro.
zen regions, or that this country was warm, down to the
time of their envelopment ? Is it not far more reasonable
to suppose, that their carcases were drifted from the warm,
er regions of the south, by a cause as sudden and as pow.
erful as the deluge ? Many other parts of the world fur.
nish like evidence of a great catastrophe, by which diluvial
clay and sand were deposited, containing fossil remains of
the elephant, the rhinoceros, and various other animals,
whose species are now extinct, which diluvial deposites are
found in locations of various altitudes ; the circumstances
of which indicate the same cause, a powerful inundation.
There is so much of coincidence in the fossil deposites of
the frozen regions of the north, and those of other and warm-
er regions, that it is certainly rational to suppose, that one
and the same revolution was the cause of both. In both
cases the fossils are of the same species of animals ; they
are imbedded in the same argi'iaceous alluvium of great
depth and extent ; they arc acquiring no new accessions,

'.%

GEOLOOT.

213

dut are losing by existing causes. No operation of existing
seas and rivers can account for such phenomena, without the
ipecial interposition of divine agency. But when we refer
them to one and the same cause, we find them rationally
I accounted for, without assuming that which is without

The fact that there are no fossil remains found in this
large section of country, does not militate against such an
inundation of the world, but only shows that these aston«
ishing volcanic fires had their existence and operation in a
jabsequent period of time.

Some have supposed from the fact that the mammoth ele-
phant found near the mouth of Lena was covered with red-
dish wool and black hairs, that it was formed for that cold
climate, and therefore was not drifted from the south by any
n and violent inundation. If such covering of ani-
was peculiar to the north, and was not found in warm

Iclimates, the argument would have some force. But we find
many animals in warm climates with this covering ; such
IS the hyena villosa, the lion, and the buffalo. Therefore
DO argument can be drawn from the covering of the mam-
moth elephant of the Lena against the catastrophe of the flood;
and certainly none that can explain its sudden congelation
ifld encasement in the ice and frozen earth. Those who
deny the inundation of the world by the deluge, may be fairly
lealled upon to account for the extermination of these ani-
and the condition in which they are found.
It is thought by some, that notwithstanding the clear and
icisive evidence that the polar regions were intensly cold
ihen these fossil remains were deposited, and have contin-
led so ever since, yet it is probable that in a period far re-
te, the climate of these countries was as warm, if not
armer, than our present tropics, and that by successive
hanges it has been reduced to its present state. The ar-
UQients deduced to prove this position are, that " in a few

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■detached spots within the arctic circle," coral reefs are foundj
that " Capt. Beechy found at Cape Thomson, near Behl
ring's straits fossil coral in limestone, and that fossil marinJ
turtles are found in Siberia." Are these arguments suffi)
cient to show that the climate could not have been 00^
at the time and place in which they were deposited ? Mighj
not the same general inundation, which drifted the elephant
rhinoceros and other land animals now extinct, intothj
cold regions of the arctic circle and deposited them in ic
and argillaceous and gravel alluvium, have carried the fossil
marine turtle into Siberia ? And when the fountains of th]
great deep were broken up, might not detached reefs of cora
have been carried into the north seas ? There is nothini
credulous nor inconsistent in believing that the might]
aqueous phenomanon which produced the one, might havj
caused the other ; and that the regions of the arctic circlj
were before the flood, as they now are, intensely cold. And :
so, then there are existing phenomena, which present fu|
evidence of an universal and powerful deluge, which wa
the cause of astonishing changes in the earth. And whili
we have this proof, we have proof carrying with it at leas|
strong probability, that the widely extended volcanic fir
west of the Rocky Mountains existed after the flood, an
by their intensity destroyed the organization of fossil rej
mains. That the intensity of these fires must have produc
«d such an eflfect is evident from the fact before stated, tba
by igneous fusion all the rock formations, with a ^qw excep
tions, have been changed into basalt and amygdaloid.

That these volcanic fires are very ancient, is evident fioij
the condition of the basaltic rocks, and others of igneou
formation ; as also from the nature and appearances of thl
general soils found in this country. Far the greatest paif
is composed of disintegrated basalt, to a great extent m
tliiced by atmospheric agency, to a fine black mould.
few, and only a ^GVf^ localities furnish vegetable mould

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GEOLOGY.

21&

Igome small tracts are argillaceous, often'mixed with volcan-
lic detritus. There are many escarpments of clay of va-
[ious colors, white, red, and green, and not unfrequently in
1 1 greater or less degree indurated. In some places especial-
Ijv near the mountains, quartose sand predominates.

In looking over the geological state of this western sec-
Ition of our continent, and the evidences that these subterra-
Igean fires, in all probability, have had their operation since
flood, the question forces itself again and again upon my
linind, what agency, by the rule of geologists, formed the
Lannel of the Columbia, and other rivers flowing through
Ldges, and mountains of hard basalt ? The channel of the
IColumbia in many parts, is walled up on its sides, and stud-
M with islands of basaltic rocks, rising in perpendicular
jlieight from 20 to 400 feet ; and it passes through a moun-
|luD of the same, below the Cascades, of more than 1,000
Ijeet; the walls receding but little from vertical. It cannot
lie that the river has formed its own channel by forcing or
liashing through the rocks, for they are too solid and im-
Inense. Undoubtedly the flowing waters have worn the
liocks very considerably, and have produced changes, but
Lpon no principles can it be supposed, that they have pro-
ced so long and so deep a channel, as the one through
ihich the Columbia flows, and through such solid rock form-
litions. '■ ^.. ■ ■

Conversing upon this subject with some literary gentle*

en who had frequently passed up and down this river,

ifter several theories were proposed, none of which could

|jven bear the test of probability, one of them remarked,

) had been reminded of his boyish sports ; when he had dam.

cd up water, and then with his flnger had drawn a chan-

el through the sand for the water to run ; so it seemed to

kini that God had with his flnger drawn a channel for the

Diumbia. It was readily agreed, that that was the most

itional one of any that could be supposed.

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This brought to my recollection a conversation Mr.
Schoolcraft and myself* had when passing through Lakei
Huron in the summer of 1834, in which we were consider-
ing some of the difficulties in regard to the evidence of the i
several geological formations. After some considerable!
conversation upon the subject, Mrs Schoolcraft, a vervl
amiable woman, sitting by and hearing, remarked, "gentle.
men, you need not give yourselves any trouble upon this sub.
ject ; God could with perfect ease order all these things."
This must be our resting place. " Every house is builded by]
some man, but he that built all things is God." If we loosei
sight of this great truth, and do not keep it in view, as a land.
mark in our investigations, but look to nature, as our only]
guide and instructor, at work in her great laboratory, the!
earth, to teach us mathematically how the earth is formedj
we shall wander into mazes from which we shall not be able
to extricate ourselves. These remarks are not designed to
detract from the science of geology ; for it is undoubtedly!
very interesting, and may be made very useful. It expand
the mind, and shows more clearly, that the invisible thingsl
of God may be undei*stood by the things which are made ;
and shows us our dependance upon Him for his upholding
and protecting providence. Let theorizing, and reasoning
apriori be laid aside; and none but truly philosophical
reasoning be pursued, which is inductive, and nothing is to
be feared, but much to be hoped, from geok)gical investigaJ
tions. Many geological writers indulge much in theoJ
ry, and to establish their theories, take many things foi|
granted which need proof. To make out their evidenc
many things arc supposed to be the results of mechanical
and chemical agencies, attractions and repulsions, combinaj
tions and transpositions. We are told, " that unless we i
mit that the earth was formed in long and successive epochs
before the creation of man, we deny tho evidence of mi
senses. And it ia cusumed as an undeniable fact, that man

liK-

GEOLOGY.

217

was not created till many generations of animals and plants
had lived and died ; depositing their remains in the rocks,
whose materials were accumulated by catastrophes that also
overwhelmed the organized beings." This is assuming very
much, and what ought to be fully proved.

What is there absurd in taking the language which Mo-
ses uses to describe the creation of the world in its obvi-
ous meaning? And if we do this shall we be under the ne-
cessity of assuming and taking more for granted^ than
those do, who suppose long successive periods of time,
in each of which astonishing revolutions have taken place,
l)efore man was created, and before the earth was reduced
to a fit condition for his residence ? If a series of forma-
tions in regular succession surrounded the earth like the
coats of an onion, and these in all parts had their regular and
particular deposits, then there would be more to induce the
belief, that these hypotheses arc correct, and the six days
mentioned by Moses were six epochs of indefinite duration.
But it is not so ; for many and large portions of countries
ere entirely destitute of formations which are found in other
')laces. In some the transition is wanting, and the second-
ary rests upon the primary. In others the tertiary is want-
ing, or scarcely found. It is also assumed that different
genera and species of plants and animals designate a dis-
tinct formation, and a particular period of time in which it
took place. If it was known to be true that different genera
and species of animals and plants had their existence in the
same periods of time, in all countries of the same climate, or
in corresponding latitudes ; then the age of different forma*
tions might be better known by fossil remains. But it is a
fact, that the genera and species of animals and plants may
differ widely and materially in the same country, age, and
latitude. This is now the case in North America, on the

■•^ id west oide of the Rocky Mountains.

I^t North America now be submerged, and after a long
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GEOLOGY.

time be again elevated to its present position, and let future
generations examine its fossil remains, and by the rules very
generally laid down, would they not conclude that the sec.
tion on the east side, and that on the west side of the moun.
tains indicate two different periods of submersion, and that
there was a Jong intermediate period of tranquillity between
them ? Would not the different genera and species of veg.
etables and animals lead to this conclusion ? Would they
not, from the evident difference of temperature of climate
in the same latitudes on the east and on the west, conclude
that the western section was submerged, at the period when
the earth was much warmer than at a period when the eas.
tern section was submerged ? This would be a rational and
legitimate conclusion from the rule, that in strata of the
same class, dissimilar organic remains belong to a different
period of time, and were deposited under a different condi.
tion of the globe. And the gigantic balsam firs, found in
the west and not found in the east, would as clearly prove a
different climate in the same latitude and therefore a dif.
ferent period of submersion, as the gigantic ferns prove a
different temperature of the earth, and of course a differ-
ent period of time, in which they were deposited.

On the west side, the enormous balsam firs, measuring from
five to eight feet in diameter, and between one and two
hundred feet in height, would be found so numerous as to
constitute whole forests. Also the alder of various diara.
eters, from the small to those of two feet and proportionably
tall ; and also the rush varying from four to ten feet long, and
proportionably large. While the fir, the alder, and rush
would be found on the east side, they would be mere dwarfs
in comparison with those on the west, and also very sparse.
And many genera of trees and plants would be found on
the one side which would not be found on the other. On
the west there would be no walnut, chestnut, sugar maple, |
elm, and many other kinds of trees. And of animals there I

GEOLOGY.

219

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would not be found any of the present fossils of the east,
nor the ox, the ass, the swine, nor common sheep, — the buffalo
would be found east and in the mountains, but hardly be-
yond. What conclusions would be drawn from such data,
if the rules which have been adopted by some geologists are
received as correct ?

If such is now the difference of climate, of vegetables, and
of animals, between the country on the east, and the coun-
try on the west, of our continent, and in the same latitude,
may not mistakes be made in regard to different formations
and different periods of time in which they may have taken
place ? And especially when the periods are so remote, and
the depth of the earth so little explored, and this confined
to so small limits. All that has yet been done is only like
making a few small punctures in the paper covering the ar-
tifical globe.

No doubts need be indulged, but that such advances may
and will be made in the science of geology, that it will become
one of the strong corroborating evidences of the inspiration
of the scriptures, without departing from the obvious mean-
ing of any part of the inspired language. The books of na-
ture, of providence, and of revelation harmonize ; and it is
owing to our darkened and limited understandings, that we
have any difficulty in seeing their harmony ; and the more
correct knowledge we gain of them, the more we shall see
and admire their coincidence. • •

It is also assumed that geology proves, that " man was
not created till many generations of animals and plants had
lived and died," and could not be cotemporaneous with them,
because fossil remains of him are not found in the oldest
strata containing such remains. Before we make this con.
elusion, let us take the biblical account of the creation of
man; that only Adam and Eve were created, and that of
one blood God hath made all nations ; that man had his first
residence in Asia, a part of the world of which we have but
little geological knowledge ; and for a long time after the

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creation, population was not numerous, and therefore there
would be little inducement to emigrate into other coun.
tries, where geological surveys have been more particular •
which emigration did not, perhaps, occur until after the
flood. And besides, mankind have always been very care-
ful in disposing of the dead where they would not become
mingled with the beasts of the earth.. How then is it
strange that there are not relics of man and of art found
with those of animals and vegetables? But it is not true
that no such human remains have been discovered. An en.
tire skeleton of a man was found embedded in coal in a
mine in England, called Ashley's Wolds, worked through
various strata of iron, stone, coal, and solid sandstone, to
the depth of six hundred and seventy-five feet. There
were no appearances of this bed having been formerly ex.
cavated, but it is 'presumed there had been a pit into which
the person fell, and that its sides had fallen, enclosing the
body in the condition in which it was discovered,i

It is difficult to determine how much antiquity is to be
given to fossil organic remains found deep in the earth, es.
pecially since we do not know how many of them may have
been deposited where they now are found, by animals hav.
ing fallen through fissures into caverns, and then ca-ried by
subterranean streams and deposited in different and remote
places. And by the changes, which these subterranean
rivers and streams are making, caves may have been filled
up embodying these deposits. Those, who have made them,
selves conversant with caves and deep wrought mines, in.
form us that such subterranean rivers do exist, and that such
changes take place.

There are various ways by which great and important
changes may and have taken place in the earth, since its
creation, and fossil deposits made without disturbing very
materially, the residence of man more than it has been dis.
turbed, long since his creation. Immense changes may

6E0L00T.

221

have taken place, by gradual and tranquil subsidence and
elevation, so as to have occasioned but very little derange-
ment of strata, and between them there may have been long
periods of repose. At other times and places subterranean
agencies have produced subsidences and elevations with such
sudden violence as to produce great dislocations and confu-
sion in strata and fossil remains. Mountains and islands
have been thrown up, and portions of the same series of
strata have been submerged and elevated at different peri-
ods of time ; and parts of the present continents may have
become dry land at different periods. So that we have no
means of ascertaining, that similar rocks of distant districts
were formed at the same time. Why, according to these sen-
timents, or perhaps it may be said, great truths, and which
are admitted by geologists, need we depart from the obvious
meaning of the term day, as used by Moses in recording
the work of creation 1 Why could not such changes have
fr.ken place after the creation of man, and man in the prov-
idence of God, without a miracle, be preserved in safety ?
It is said, that Hhe calcareous mountains of Jura and the
outer range of the Alps, at the height of six or eight thou-
sand feet, contain beds filled with the remains of marine
animals; that similar phenomena are found in the secon-
dary strata in England, also in the calcareous mountains of
the Pyrenees ; and organic remains are found at the height
of fourteen thousand feet in the Andes ; and that the dis-
tinct characters of these animals prove that they were not
brought into their present situation by any sudden inunda-
tions. Let these facts take place as they may, and by causes
unknown to us, yet it is dithcult to see how they prove that
[man might not have existed before they transpired. And
the admittance of geologists that many portions of the con-
Itinent, at different periods of time, may have been sub-
merged, and again raised, and some parts in the mean time

become dry land, only increases the difficulty of seeing how
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" we deny the evidence of our senses, if we believe man was
created before many generations of animals and plants
had lived and died."

It is said, many remains of animals arc embedded in solid
rocks. And could not man have lived upon the earth, when
these deposits and petrifactions were taking place ? The
work of petrifaction has not ceased to operate, though man
has long existed.

May not the order of organic fossil remains depend upon
the longevity of animals and plants, and not upon long
epochs of time in creation ? In relation to this let us examine
the historical account of the creation in the scriptures. On
the first day of creation God divided light from darkness.
On the second. He formed the firmanent. The third day,
He caused dry land to appear, and vegetation to spring
forth. On the fourth. He created the planets and stars. The
fifth, the inhabitants of the sea, and winged fowls. The
sixth, animals, and also man ; and He rested and sanctified
the seventh day. In this order plants were formed previ.
ous to animals. But in geological surveys, zoophite animals,
such as madrepores and encrinites, are found dispersed
abundantly, with a few of the most frail plants in the trans.
ition formation, which is the first containing organic re.
mains. -- :' ■^' - . : .',■.■

God said on the fifth day, let the waters bring forth abun.
dantly the moving creature that hath life. But the terra |
" moving creature" does not necessarily imply locomotion,
Madrepores and encrinites, which greatly abound, have the |
power of motion, though not from place to place. These
ephemeral animals are found abundantly, with a few frail
plants, in the transition strata, and but few of any other
organic bodies. But in the next formation,'which is the low.
est series of the secondary, plants are numerous, and the most
so of any other relics. Now if each day of the creation
was a long epoch of indefinite duration, why are not plcmisi

0E0L06T.

223

which were created before animals, found chiefly if not en-

jtirely, predominating in the transition formation ?

But if the days of creation were what is commonly un-
^rstood by natural days, and the order of fossil deposits
depends upon the longevity of organic life, and not upon
periods of time, then madrepores and encrinites may be dis-
persed in great abundance, with some few of the frailest
plants, in the first geological strata, containing such re-
mains, although not created until the fifth day.

Some moUusca, chiefly bivalves are also found in the
transition. And although their lives, generally, may be
longer than many plants, yet it is not strange from their
habits, that they should be in a lower formation, than where
vegetables are often found. The moUusca, however, are

Lore generally in the upper series of the secondary strata.
Vertebra ted animals such as flshes, reptiles, birds, and quad-
rupeds, are rarely found in the transition ; but they appear
in greater numbers in the secondary; and still more nu-
merous in higher formations. And in the tertiary, are the
fossil remains of the mastodon, the hippopotamus, the rhi-
noceros, the elephant, and the whale. The same order is
observable in plants. The firm and long lived, such as
trees are rarely found below the tertiary and alluvial forma-

Itions. So the order of fossil organic remains, both of plants
d animals, evidently proceeds from the frail to the more

holid; from those of shorter lives to those of longer, and
the principles of longevity, according to the intermixture of

Ifossil remains, more consistently account for fossil order,
than long epochs of time. And*if so. then in taking the

Imost obvious meaning of the scriptures, we take the most

[rational and consistent way to account for geological phe-

lD0in3na.

It is true the terra day in the scriptures is sometimes used
to express an indefinite length of time, as in Genesis ii. 4 :
In the day that the Lord God made the earth and the heav-

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OEOLOOY.

ens." John viii. 56: "Your father Abraham rejoiced to
see my day.'' Job xiv. 6 : " Till he shall accomplish as an
hireling his day,'' To prevent any such understandinff of
the word day, it seems the inspired writer uses a particular
precaution in giving an account of the creation of the
world, to confine the word day to a definite period. " The
evening and the morning was the first day." And the same
phraseology is used with all the days, including the seventh
which was sanctified, and which is recognized in the ten
commandments. Why this particular caution in limiting
the term day, if it was to be taken for an indefinite length,
a caution which is not used in any other part of the scrip.
tures, and in no other part was so much needed.*

It does not follow from the point of view above stated,
thus the fossil deposits and strata formations were coraple.
ted in a few natural days. The subsidence of the materials
of the several formations, and the fossils found in them, might
have occupied a long period of time, and the work has not
yet ceased. Different portions of the earth, by subterrane.j
an agencies, might have been submerged and again elevated;
changes in various ways might have taken place in accor-
dance with physical laws ; and together with these, tiie in-
undation of the flood performed its part in bringing the|
world into its present condition. While there is an observ-
able order in fossil deposits, yet there is an intermixture, for
which it is very difiicult to account on the theory, that the]
days of creation were long epochs, in each of which ccr.
tain animals and plants were created, and from which, inl

each ep
strata ft
if we ii

licve thi
the orde;
of each
life; anc
see how,
order of
There

iad lived
1 sinn<
»as by c
I by sin,
lion have
of man's (
earth, so *
pain togei
thistles in
same reasc
tor the sar
tion of ur
struction
rebelhon
fore death
1st and die
I see n(
?y. or find
is always

* After writinfj the above, I road Professor Jumeson's critical exnmin
ation of the Htibrew terms, used in the first chapter of Genesis^ and wai
happy to find so much coincidence of his views with mine, in regard to iheHfonize, a
order of creation and fossil deposits of plants and animals, from •belowmi ^j

er and more fraU, to the higher and more durable; although his views ufB ""J?'> «
this order were used to estuhlish his belief in long periods ol time, yctB(})(> scienc
they confirmed my b( ' ef, that I had not taken a mwtnken view of .'1'4
subject, viz: that the order of fossil deposits depends upon the loogevityJ'fctly wnn
as a general rule, of plants and ttnimaw. Mj^. 1 .

•M ': 1

GBOLOOY.

225

each epoch, certain fossils were deposited in their several
strata formations. But this difficulty is not found to exist,
if we take the obvious meaning of the scriptures, and be-
lieve that longevity might have done much to bring about
the order of organic fossils. Durability does not fix the age
of each individual animal and plant, but a general order of
life; and therefore on the principles of longevity, we can
see how, that while there is a mixture, there is also a general
order of fossils.

There is another difficulty in admitting that " man was
net created until many generations of plants and animals
bad lived and died." The earth was not cursed till man
had sinned, and it was then cursed for his sake. Also it
I was by one man that sin entered into the world, and death
by sin. It is not to be understood that the irrational crea-
tion have sinned, and therefore die ; but as a consequence
of man's disobedience, the curse of God came on the whole
earth, so " that the whole creation groaneth and travaileth in
pain together until now, " The earth produces thorns and
iliistles in consequence of the apostacy of man. For the
same reason the world has been desolated by the flood ; and
for the same cause is now reserved unto fire, and the perdi-
tion of ungodly men. It is very evident that all the de-
struction and misery in the world arc consequent upon the
Irebellion of man, and if so, sin entered into the world be-
Ifore death and the curse, and animated nature did not ex-
|ist and die long before man was created.

I see no reason why any one should be sceptical in geolo-
Igy, or find from it any reason to doubt the scriptures. Truth
lis always consistent, and the word and works of God har-
Imonize, and all that is necessary to sec their harmony is a
Itliorough acquaintance with both. Comparatively speaking
IiIk' science of geology is of recent origin, and is butimper-
Ifectly understood, and until our knowledge is more exten-
sive, let us reason and infer with caution.

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226

GEOLOGY.

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From careful examination of the geological condition of j
this country I have been led to conclude, that the great vol.
canic fires continued in operation through a long period of
time and in many series of operations. On examining 1
bluffs, or perpendicular banks of rivers and mountains, I
have numbered from between ten and twenty different strata I
of amygdaloid, basalt, and breccia. These appear to be
thrown up through dykes, or through craters, rising in dif.
ferent succession one above another. In some places thel
lowest formation was pudding stone, above this amygdaloidj
then a stratum of angular fragments of basalt and amygda.l
loid, and someti les intermixed with lava, which may bej
called breccia ; and over these, basalt, frequently in reguJ
lar pentagons, which vary in size from one to five feet ii
diameter, and in regular articulated sections; and upon
the basalt another stratum of breccia ; and again upon thes
is superimposed another stratum of basalt, or in some case
amygdaloid ; and in the same manner strata above strata
in some places to twenty in number. These strata vary in
depth from a very few feet to thirty or forty ; and the whole
series rising from two to five hundred feet. In some locaJ
tions the number of strata are f!e\v. The section of tlia
broken but consolidated fragments, laying between the reguJ
larly formed basalt, or the amygdaloid, is generally only
very few feet in thickness. This presents the appearanc
of having been the surface for a long period of time, until
a partial disintegration and decomposition had taken place
after which a new eruption superimposed another stratuiii
of basalt, or amygdaloid. Thus it appears, that the intcrj
nal fires have had intervals of repose, and then again hav^
Bent forth their volcanic substances. The probability a
that they were thus in operation for centuries, but for cenj
turics past have ceased; so that time has been given forutj
mospheric agencies to decompose the volcanic productions
fiufficiently to form a soil covering most parts of tlie coui

r. ■ f

i ■ ■■.■*■'

GEOLOGY.

227

Itrv excepting the great desert in the Shoshones country, lay-
ing between two ranges of mountains, extending three hun-
Ujed miles from the south-east to the north-west, a id one
kiindred miles in width. It is not to he understood, that
tiere is no other soil in the Oregon country. In some parts
I there are sections of argillaceous earth ; in some other parts
a sandy and gravely soil; but far the greatest part pre-
|«ents evidences of igneous power.

The enquiry naturally arises in the mind, whether it may
[not be on account of the great internal fires of this country

liat the climate is so aiuch warmer on the west side of
[tlie great mountains, than on the east. It is an interest-

ind tact, that the eastern side of North America is the cold-
lesiof any part of the world in the same latitude ; and the

western side is the warmest part of the world in the same
llatitude. And may this not arise from the comparatively
[recent volcanic fires, which pervaded about the whole region
lof the setting sun ?

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228

CHARACTER AND CONDITION OF INDIANS.

CHAPTER XVII.

Character and condition of the Indians— Indians of the plains— their
persons— dress — wealth — habits — physical character — manufactures—
their religion— wars — vices—moral disposition— superstitions— medi- j
cine men.

As it was the principal object of my tour to ascertain the]
character and condition of the Indians beyond the Rockyj
Mountains^ their numbers, and prospects of estabhshing tliej
gospel among them, it will not only be proper but importantj
to give a full and connected description of these particulars,)
In doing this, while I have availed myself of information
collected from men of intelligence and integrity, yet I have
confined my statements to those things which have been
corroborated by^ or came undcr^ my own observations ; feel^
ing it a duty to avoid the many fabulous accounts whicli
have been given of Indian character and customs. Ro^
tnance may please and excite admiration, fiction ma^
charm, but only truth can instruct.

I shall first describe the Indians of the plains. These!
live in the upper country from the Falls of the Columbia td
tiie Rocky Mountains, and are called the Indians of m
plains, because a large proportion of their country is prairij
land. The principal tribes are the Nez Perces, Cayuses
Walla Wallas, Bonax, Shoshones, Spokeins, FlatheadiJ
Coeur De Lions, Ponderas, Cootanies, Kettlefalls, Okana
gans, and Carriers. These do not include probably mor
than one half of those east of the Falls, but of others
have obtained but little definite knowledge^ These all k

h ih' '

COSTUMfi.

229

semble eaCh other in general characteristics. In their per-
5ons the men are tall, the women are of common stature,
md both men and women are well formed. While there is
a strong natural as well as moral resemblance among all In-
dians, the complexion of these is much the same as other
Indians, excepting a little fairer. Their hair and eyes are
black, their cheek bones high, and very frequently they have
aquiline noses. Their hands, feet, and ancles, are small and
well formed ; and their movements arc easy, if not graceful.
They wear their hair long, part it upon their forehead, and
let it hang in tresses on each side, or down behind.

There is a great resemblance in their dress, which gen-
erally consists of a shirt, worn over long, close leggins, with
•noccasons for their feet. These are of dressed leather
made of the skins of deer, antelope, and mountain goats
and sheep ; and over these they wear a blanket or buffalo
robe. The borders of their garments are ornamented with
long fringes, after the manner of the ancient Jews. They
tG fond of ornaments, and according to their means, their
heads and garments are decorated with feathers, beads, but-
tons, and porcupine quills ; the last of which are colored
red, yellow, blue, and black, and worked with great skill
and variety of design. They appear to have less of the
propensity to adorn themselves with painting, than the In-
dians east of the mountains ; but still at their toilet, vermil-
ion, mixed with red clay, is used not only upon their faces,
I but also upon their hair. The dress of the women does not
[ vary much from the men, excepting, that instead of the shirt,
they have what may be called a frock coming down to the
ancles. Many of them wear a laf ge cape made of the same
material, and often highly ornamented with large oblong
beads of blue, red, purple, and white, arranged in curved
lines covering the whole. Some of the daughters of the
chiefs, when clothed in their clean, white dres^ses made of

Untelope skins, with their fully ornamented capes coming
20

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^'S

230

TttEIR WEALTH.

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down to the waist, and mounted upon spirited steeds, going
at full speed, their ornaments glittering in the sun-beams
make an appearance that would not lose in comparison with
equestrian ladies of the east.

Their horses are not less finely caparisoned with blue and
scarlet trimmings about their heads, breasts, and loins, hung
with little braids bells.

While a want of cleanliness is a characteristic of all hea.
then, the Indians of the plains are less reprehensible than
others, and far more neat than those of the lower country to-
ward the Pacific. It is not to be understood that there are
not those who are poor, suffering from the want of food and
clothing.

Their wealth consists in their horses, and in a great de.
gree their consequence upon the number they possess ; some
owning several hundreds ; and that family is poor whose
numbers are not sufficient for every man, woman, and child
to be mounted, when they are traveling from place to place ;
and also to carry all their efiects. In these respects they I
are far better supplied than any tribes I saw east of the |
mountains. While their horses are their wealth, they de.
rive but little from them for the support of themselves and I
families ; for they do not employ them to cultivate the earth;
and the market for them is so low, that they command but
a small price. A good horse will not sell for more than
enough to purchase a blanket, or a few small articles of mer*
chandize. For subsistence, they, of necessity, depend upon
hunting and fishing, and gathering roots and berries. Their
mode of cooking is plain and simple. Most of their food
is roasted, and they excel in roasting fish. The process is
to build in the centre of their lodge a small fire, to fix the
fish upon a stick two feet long, and to place one end in the
ground so as to bring the fish partly over the fire, and then!
by a slow process it is most thoroughly roasted without aDyj
scorching, or scarcely changing the color. The princij

.r-.

•^jr

HABITS.

231

art consists in taking time, and our best cooks might im-
prove by following their mode.

Their habits. The habits of Indians are said to be indo-
lent. As a general remark it may be true, but I saw but
very little to confirm its truth among the Indians of the
plains ; for I rarely saw any of these Indians without their be-
ing engaged in some object of pursuit ; not the most produc-
tive, perhaps, but such as enlisted their attention. While I be-
lieve in the striking resemblance, both physical and moral,
of all the different nations and tribes of Indians spread over
large portions of the continent of America, more so than is
seen in any people of any other country of equal extent, yet
if it is true, that as a general fact, they are morose and
gloomy in their countenances; sullen, or bachanalian in
their dispositions ; that they are rarely so joyful as to laugh,
unless excited by ardent spirits ; that they are taciturn and
never indulge in mirth ; that they are obtuse in sympathy,
and destitute of social affections ; that in proud disdain
they turn away from whatever would excite curiosity ; that
no common motives or endearments excite them to action ;
if these things are true, then the Indians in the Oregon
Territory are an exception to the general fact. In all the
above named particulars, I saw no special difference between
them and other nations. As a part of the human family,
they have the same natural propensities and the same social
affections. They are cheerful and often gay, sociable, kind,
and affectionate ; and anxious to receive instruction in what-
ever may conduce to their happiness here or hereafter. It
is worse than idle to speak of " physical insensibility in-
wrought into the animal nature of the Indians, so that their
bodies approximate to the insensibility of horses' hoofs."
The influence of this kind of remarks is to produce, in the
bosoms of all who read them, the same insensibility which
is charged upon the native character of the Indians. To
represent their characters and their restoration to the com-

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MANUFACTURES.

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mon feelings of humanity so hopeless, is to steel the heart
of even Christianity itself, if it were possible, against all
sympathy, and to paralize all exertions and effort to, save
them from the two-fold destruction to which they doom them
temporal and eternal. Is this the reason that christians
are sitting in such supineness over their condition, and the
heart-thrilling appeals from them for teachers to enlighten
themi Ivak this the reason, that while the philanthropy of
the United States' citizens towards them is so widely bla.
zoned, that those,, who are sent to teach them the arts of civ-
ilized life,.are sitting quiet on the borders in governmental pay,
while the Indians are roaming still over the prairies in
search of uncertain and precarious game ? I forbear to tell
the story.

They have but a few manufactures, and those few are the
most plain and simple, not extending much beyond dressing
the skins of animals, and making them into clothing; male,
ing bows and arrows and some few articles of furni.
ture. In dressing their skins they never make any use of
bark, or tannin in any way. Their process, is. to remove
the hair and flesh from the skins by sesaping them with a
hard stone or wood, or, when it can bo obtained^ a piece of
iron hoop, and then besmearing them with the brains of some
animal, they smoke them thoroughly and rub them until
they are soft ; and after this bleach them with pure white
clay. Their mode of smoking, is to dig or excavate a small
place in the ground, about a foot deep, and over this to con.
struct a small fixture in the form of a lodge, a few feet wide
at the base and brought to a point at the top. Then they
build a small fire in the centre, and place the skins around
upon the frame work, so as to make the enclosure almost
smoke tight. The process occupies about one day. Their
mode of dressing bufialo robes is different. It is by stretch-
ing the skin upon the ground, flesh side up, fastening it
down with pins around the border. Then with an instru,.

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'v'li

MANUFACTURES.

233

ment formed somewhat like a cooper's adz, made of stone, or
^o(A overlaid with a piece of iron, brought to a blunt edge
like the currier's knife, they clear from it all remaining flesh
and let it thoroughly dry. After this, with the same in-
strument, they work upon it with a pounding, hewing stroke,
until they have brought it to a suitable thickness and ren-
dered it soft and white, in the same condition as our buffalo
robes are, when brought into market. It is a work of great
labor performed by the women. We little think how much
toil it costs a woman to prepare one of these robes, and then
how little is paid for it by the purchaser ; a pound of tobacco
or a bunch of beads, is as much as the Indian generally re-
ceives.

Their bows are made of the most elastic wood, strength-
ened with the tendons of animals, glued upon the back side,.
and a string made of the same substance. Their arrows
are made of heavy wood, with one end tipped with a sharps
stone or pointed iron, and the other end pinnated with a
feather. While the first is to pierce, the latter is to govern;
the direction. Their bows and arrows perform astonishing
I execution, and they manage them with great dexterity.

Most of their cooking utensils, which they now use, are
I obtained from traders^ These do not often extend beyond
a brass kettle, tin pail, and a very few knives. They have
bowls which they manufacture very ingeniously from the
horns of buffalo ; and sometimes, those that are larger and
more solid, from the horns of the big horn mountain sheep.
They have spoons of very good structure made of buffalo
horns; also they have various kinds of baskets of rude
workmanship.. Their saddles are rude, somewhat resembling
tile Spanish saddle, having a high knob forward, and rising
high on the back part ; generally sitting uneasy upon the
horse's back. Their bridles are only a rope well made of
|hair, or the shag of the buffalo, fastened to the under jaw of

horsey very long, so as to form the lasso ; this is so coiled

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234

SELIOIOTT.

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in the hand as to form a noose when thrown over the horse's
head, which is done very dexterously ; and when they are
mounted, the rope, or leather thong which is often used in its
place, trails along upon the ground. This is often left upon
the horse's nock, when he is turned out for a short time to
feed, for the convenience of more easily catching hira.

Their canoes, before they obtained iron hatchets of the
traders, were, with great labor and patience made with hatch,
ets of stone ; and even now, it is with no small effort. A
canoe of good construction is valued as high as one or two
good horses. Their fishing nets are another article which is
well constructed, formed of wild flax ; and in every partic-
ular like our scoop nets.

As regards the religion of the Indians, we have already
stated in tracing their resemblance to the ancient Jews, that
they believe in one God, in the immortality of the soul, and
in future rewards and punishments* But while these are
the prominent points of their belief^ their definite ideas of |
a religious nature appear to be extremely limited, both in
number and in comprehensiveness* As much as this, how.
ever, appears to be true. They believe in one Great Spirit, i
who has created all things, governs dl important events,
and who is the author of ail good ; and who is the onlyob.
ject of religious homage. They believe he may be dis.
pleased with them for their bad conduct, and in his displeas.
ure bring calamities upon them. They also believe in an
evil spirit, whom they call cmim A:cweA;i meoJiot cinmo-cimo;\
that is, the black chief below, who is the author of all evils
which befall them, undeserved as a punishment frwn the
Great Spirit above. They believe in the immortality ofj
the soul, that it enters the future world with a similar form,
and in like circunistances to those under which it existed]
in this life. They believe that in a future state, the happi.
ness of the good consists in an abundance and enjoymentl
of those things which they value here, that their presenti

TRADITIONS.

335

sources of happiness will be carried to perfection ; and
that the punishment of the bad will consist in entire exclu>
sion from every source of happiness, and in finding all
causes of misery here, greatly multiplied hereafter. Thus
their ideas of future happiness and misery are found to vary
according to their different situations and employments in
life. It is difficult, if not impossible, to ascertain any thing
of their religious belief beyond these general notions. The
number of words and terms in their language expressive of
abstract and spiritual ideas, is very small, so that those*
who wish to instruct them in these subjects, are compelled
to do it by means of illustrations and circumlocutions, and'
the- introduction of words from foreign languages. Besides,
conscious of their ignorance, they ar«, for the most part,
unwilling to expose it, by revealing the little knowledge
which they posses. Indeed, wherever a feeUng of igno-
rance upon any subject prevails, we find that all endeavors
to elicit the true amount of knowledge^, are repelled or eva-
ded. Even men of talents and education, who converse
fluently upon most subjects, are often silent when religious
topics are introduced..

I am j^r from believing the many long and strange tradi-
tions, with which we are often entertained- It '3 more than
probable^ that they are in nu)st instances the gratuitous of-
ferings of designing and artful traders and hunters to that
curiosity, which is ever awake and attentive to subjects of
this description. The Indians themselves would often be
as much surprised at the rehearsal of these traditions, as
those are,, for whose amusement they are fabricated..

My own opinion is confirmed by that of several gentlemen
of integrity and veracity, who stand at the head of the
Hudson Bay Company, who have long been resident in the
Indian country, and who have become extensively acquaint-^
ed with their languages..

The Indians west of the great chain of mountains, havs;

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236

WAR.

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no wars among themselves, and appear to be averse to all
war, and do not enter into battle except in self-defence, and
then only in the last extremity. Their only wars are with
the Blackfeet Indians, whose country is along the east bor-
der of the Rocky Mountains, and who are constantly rov.
ing about in war parties, on both sides of the mountains
in quest of plunder. When the Indians on the west meet
with any of these war parties, they avoid an encounter if j
possible, but if they are compelled to fight, they show a firm,
undaunted, unconquerable spirit, and rush upon their ene.
mies with the greatest impetuosity ; and it is said that one
Nez Perce, or Flathead warrior is a match for three Black,
feet. The only advantage which the latter have over the for.
mer consists in their numbers, there being more than twen-
ty thousand of the Blackfeet Indians. When an enemy is
discovered, every horse is driven into camp, and the women
take charge of them, while every man seizes his weapons of j
war, whatever they may be, mtwints his horse, and waits
firm and undismayed to see if hostilities must ensue. If a
battle cannot be avoided, then they rush forward to meet
their foes, throwing themselves flat upon their horses as they
draw near, and fire, and wheel, and re-load, and again rush
full speed to the second encounter.. This is continued until
victory is decided, which is as often by the failure of amrau.
nition, as by the loss of men. Very frequently, when the
Blackfeet see white men with the Nez Forces or Flatheads,
they decline a battle, though they themselves may be far
superior in numbers, knowing that the white men can fur^
nish a large supply of ammunition ; and in such cases they
will raise a flag> and come in to smoke the pipe of peace*
The Nez Fierce or Flathead chief, on such an occasion, will
say "we accept your offer to smoke the pipe of peace, but it
IS not in ignorance, that your heart is war,, and your hand
blood, but we love peacCk You give us the pipe, but blood
qJw^ys follows.'

»»■

'^}

VICES.

237

But these Indians are not without their vices. Gambling
1,3 Mie of the most prominent, and is a ruling passion which
they will gratify to the last extremity. It is much prac-
tised in running horses, and foot races, by men, women, and
children ; they have some games of chance played with
sticks or bones. When I told the Nez Perces that gam-
bling is wrong, that it is a violation of the tenth command-
ment ; for it is coveting the property of another, and taking
it frithout compensation, as much so as stealing ; they said
they did not know it before, but now they know God forbids
it, they will do so no more. Most of the tribes of the
plains are remarkably free from the crime of stealing, and
it is scarcely known, except among the Shoshones nation,
vhere it is practised to a considerable degree, but less so
than in former times. Drunkeness is a stranger vice among
these Indians, but what they would do, if ardent spirits
were introduced among them, is not known, and it is most
lievoutly to be desired it may not be known. It is only the
eipense of transportation that keeps back its introduction.
A man from th& linked States attempted to construct a dis-
tlery upon the Willamette river, but for the want of suita-
ble materials failed in his object.

The moral disposition of these Indians is very commend.
able, certainly as much so as any people that can be nam-
ed. They are kind to strangers, and remarkably so to each
otber^ While among them I saw no contentions, nor did I
hear any angry words from one to another. They mani-
fest an uncommon desire to be instructed that they may
obey and fulfil all moral obligations. Harmony and peace
prevail in all their domestic concerns. But in case they
any difficult subject, which they do not know how to
ose of, they go to their chiefs, and if it involves any
important principle, the chiefs bring the case to any white
man, who may be among them, to obtain his opinion, which
is generally followed. They are scrupulously hone; t in all

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238

SUPERSTITIONS.

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their dealings, and lying is scarcely known. They say
they fear to sin against the Great Spirit, and therefore, they
have but one heart, and their tongue is straight and not {
forked. And so correctly does the law written upon their
hearts accord with the written law of God, that every in. I
fraction of the seventh command of the decalogue is pun.
ished with severity.

I have not witnessed many things characteristic of their I
being very superstitious. The practice of the Shoshonesj
in cutting themselves for the dead, I have already mention.
ed. The Carriers burn their dead. When a person dies,]
all the relations must be assembled, to do which often occu.
pies many days ; and if a husband is deceased, the wife]
must sleep with her dead husband to show her affection fori
him ; and when the body is laid upon the funeral pile, she|
must, during the burning, frequently put her hands upon liis
bosom. Their first chief lost his wife. He was asked if
he would show the affection for her, which was required o(j
others. He thought on account of his station he might
excused. The people were urgent, and he consented, and
on account of the pain ho endured, he was willing the prac.|
tice should be ameliorated, and it is hoped it will soon
abolished.

They have no unlucky days, but as a substitute for the
white man's Friday, they have a portentous howling of
large wolf, which they call the medicine wolf. If they
hear this when traveling, a sadness is at once visible in theirj
countenances, as foreboding some calamity near.

Among their superstitions may be classed their mode ol
curing diseases. They have what are called medicine menJ
who make no pretensions to any knowledge of diseases oii
skill in medicine ; but they have a bag in which is deposited
various relics, not to be administered to their patients, hut to
operate as a charm. The patient is stretched upon tlid
ground ; a number of persons encircle around and sing thi

MEDICINE MEN.

239

medicine song. The medicine man enters the circle and
commences his magical incantations ; uses much gesture and
inarticulate sounds ; he pats or kneads the patient with his
hands, beginning very softly, and gradually increasing to a
considerable degree of severity ; blows into the patient's
ears, and practices other like ceremonies. By the process
employed, the patient is often much fatigued, and thrown
into a free perspiration, and his imagination is much excited.
When the friction has been sufficiently employed, the imagin-
ation well wrought upon, and the medicine bag has invisibly
imparted its virtues, the medicine man presents some trifling
article, such as a small bone, a stick, or pebble, and says he
jias taken it from the body of the patient, and it was the
cause of the disease ; or he gives a heavy puff upward, and
gavs the disease has come out of the patient and gone up.
ward, and then asks him if he does not feel better. The
patient says yes ; for he certainly feels better in being re-
lieved from the process. And often the effect is permanent ;
jbr the friction may have been beneficial, and the imagina-
tion often performs wonders. The medicine man stands re-
iponsible for the life of his patient, and if his patient dies,
not unfrequently his own life is taken by some of the rela-
lives of the deceased. He makes a heavy charge for his
jervices, often a horse, and why should he not 7 for who
in such cases would endanger his life without being well
paid ? In some parts of the country, but more especially in
the lower country, the lives of medicine men are short, and
it would be supposed this would deter others from entering
into the profession. But the love of fame and wealth is
powerful among heathen as well as among civilized com-
munities, where there are those who will sell their souls, as
veil as their bodies, to gratify their sinful propensities.
Undoubtedly the medicine men, when they begin their pro-
Jession, know that they are practising deception, but by
continuance in practice, by the confidence others place in

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their skill, and by the effects produced through the mediw
um of the imagination, they believe in the efficacy of their
enchantments, and that they themselves are consequential!
men. • "

I have seen no " root doctors" in any tribe east or west]
of the mountains. The Indians, so far as I have had an op..
portunity of ascertaining, have but few diseases, and fori
the cure of these, they use but little medicine ; nor do theyf
profess to have scarcely any knowledge of remedies beyonii
a few specifics.

They have a practice of producing perspiration, the
object of which is to invigoTate their constitutions, and
as a luxury is practised very extensively. They conn
struct a steam bath in the form of an oblong oven, tw(
or three feet high, about six feet long, made of willows, each
end inserted into the ground, forming an arch, which is cov^
cred with grass and mud, or more generally with skins. Ig
this they place a number of hot stones, upon which the)
pour water. The person, who is to go through the process
enters and is enclosed nearly air tight, and remains until
very profuse perspiration is produced, and until nearly suf
focated. He then comes out and plunges at once into col^
water. No regard is paid to the season of the year, whethj
er summer or winter.

They are wholly destitute of the means of obtaining ai|
education, and therefore are ignorant of all the sciences]
In things with which they are conversant, such as appertaiij
to hunting, war, and their limited domestic concerns, thci
manifest observation, sjkill, and intellect ; but beyond thcsJ
their knowledge is very limited. They necessarily coraputj
by numbers, but their arithmetic is entirely mental. It ij
an interesting fact, that of four different languages, which
examined, the mode of counting is by tens.

The Klicatat nation count with different words up to ten
iaA'5, one; neep% two; and so to ten ; tlien they add wai

"MUSIC.

241

to lah's ; aslah^s wappena, eleven ; neepH tcappcna, twelve ;
neep^t tit, twenty ; and in like manner to one hundred, and so
on to a thousand by hundreds. In the Nez Perce language,
nox is one, lapeet two, metait three, &c. After ten they re-
peat the radical numbers with the addition, tUy as nox tU,
eleven ; laap tit, twenty ; metap tit, thirty. This may be a
Bufficient specimen for the four languages, as the other two
proceed in the same manner.

They count their years by snows ; as, maika elaix, snows,
six, that is six years ; and months by moons, and days by
sleeps ; pinemeek pe-c-lep, sleeps four, (four days.) It is not
common that they know their exact age ; nor, generally
gpeaking, are they very accurate in chronology.

They are very fond of singing, and generally have flcxi-
ble and sweet-toned voices. Most of their singing is with-
out words, excepting upon some special occasions. They
tise hi ah in constant repetition, as we use fa, sol, la ; and
instead of several different parts harmonizing, they only
take eighths, one above em. 'er, never exceeding three.
They are conscious of the -i ^ rity of their tunes to ours,
and wished to be instructed in mis departmeni of knowledge.
In this land of moral desolations, it was cheering to hear
the sounds of melody and harmony, even in the most simple
strains.

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THE INDIANS OF

CHAPTER XVIII.

The Indians of the lower country.

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The Indians of the lower country are those between the I
shores of the Pacific and the Falls of the Columbia river,
and from Pugets Sound to upper California. The principal 1
nations are the Chenooks, the Klicatats, the Callapooabs
and the Umbaqu^s. These nations are divided into a great {
number of tribes, which have their respective chiefs, and
yet each nation has its principal chief, who is head over all
the several tribes, and has a general superintending control.]
These Indians are rather below a middle stature, not gener.j
ally, in their persons, so well formed as the Indians of the!
plains or upper country. Their women are uncouth, in.j
dining to be pendulous : and, at an early age, they appear
old, which is owing to several causes. One among theseJ
is the habit of painting, which destroys the smooth and
healthy appearance of the skin.

These Indians appear to have less sensibility, both physiJ
cal and moral, than those of the upper country. Their de^
pendence for subsistence being mostly confined to fishing
and fowling, they are not so well supplied with clothing a^
the upper Indians, who hunt the buffalo, the elk, the antej
lope, and other game. The lower Indians obtain somd
game, and clothing from the lower posts of the Hudson Baj
Company. I have often seen these going about, half naj
ked, when tlie thermometer ranged between thirty and fortj
degrees ; and their children barefooted and barelegged Id
the snow ; and yet when exposed to fatigue, they canno

THE LOWER COUNTRT.

343

endure the cold half so well as civilized people. I have no-
ticed this, when I have had them employed in conveying
me any considerable distance in a canoe. Their taste and
smelling are obtuse, rendered so by their filthy habits and
contaminated food. But their hearing and sight are un.
commonly good ; rendered so, undoubedtly, by their habits of
looking closely to see their game, and listening attentively
to catch the least sound. These Indians being, from their
mode of subsistence, more stationary than those of the
plains, have more durable and comfortable habitations,
which are built of split plank, after the manner which I
have described Wanaxka*s, near the falls of the Willamette.
Some of them, however, indulge the fancy of making their
doors like the face of a man, the mouth being the place of
entrance.
The lower Indians do not dress as well, nor with as good
taste, as the upper. Their robes are much shorter, and are
made of inferior materials ; such as deer skins with the hair
o, and skins of hares and of squirrels. The women wear a
sort of petticoat, made of cedar bark, or a species of strong
psSf twisted into strands, which, at one end, is fastened
into a girdle, and the other is knotted and suspended from
the band. These Indians are as degraded as those on our
frontiers, and from the same causes. By their intercourse
with those who furnish them with the means of intoxica-
tion, and who have introduced kindred vices, they have be-
come indolent and extremely filthy in their habits, and more
liebased than the beasts of the earth. If we go to the
abodes of the beasts of the field and of the forest, we may
find examples of neatness and industry far above that of these
iieatlien. How perfectly neat are the deer and the ante-
[bpe ; how industrious the beaver and the bee ; how clean is
lie plumage of the fowl ; how well adapted to repose are
heir habitations ; in a word, how diflerent are all their hah-
ts from those of fallen, polluted man. What has brought

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man, unreclaimed by the gospel, into this degraded statft ?
Not the want of rational powers, but their abuse by sin ; and
nothing but Christianity, by which he may be brought back
to God, can ever bring him into the comforts and decencies
of life.

Tell us no more about the happiness of the untaught
children of nature ; poor, miserable, degraded, sinful na-
ture, alienated from the life of godliness ; and alienated from
the decencies of life. Let infidels and novelists scatter
their eulogies of the untutored children of nature to the
wind, but do not let them be found near tl^ habitations of
ignorance, pollution,. i.nd misery. The want of moral in.
struction, the influence of bad examples, and unrestrained
licentiousness, have brouglU the lower Indians into a state
of wretchedness which will be entailed upon future genera.
tions, and which nothing but the healing power of the gos.
pel can ever eradicate. There are some exceptions to these
remarks, but not enough to exert a redeeming power to save
these remnants of once populous nations, if benevolence
and humanity do not soon break their slumbers. It is to be
hoped the methodist missionaries, now in the field, under
God, will interpose a barrier to thcye sweeping desolations.

In their religious belief, they do not materially differ from
the upper Indians. While they believe in one Great Spirit,
they in addition believe in subordinate spirits, or invisible
agencies, to whom they ascribe much the same power as
has been ascribed to witchcraft. We had a specimen of |
this, when the May Dacrc was passing down the river in
October. On the north side of the Columbia, near the con.
fluence of the Cowlitz there were some dark recesses in
the basaltic rocks. An Indian chief on board warned Capt.
L. not to approach those dark places ; for they were the
residence of bad spirits who would destroy the ship and all
on board. Capt. L. purposely passed near the place ; and

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THE LOWER COUNTRY.

245

the Indian was astonished that we escaped unhurt, and con-
cluded there must have been some great " medicine" in the
ship> which defended us. They beUeve in the immortahty
of the soul, and that in the future state we shall have the
same wants as in this life. Under the influence of this be-
lief, the wife of Calpo, a very influential chief of the Che-
nook village near cape Disappointment, on losing a daugh-
ter, in the year 1829, killed two female slaves to attend her
to the world of spirits, and for the particular purpose of
rowing her canoe to the far oflf happy regions of the south,
nhere in their imagination they locate their elysium. She

I (jeposited her daughter, with the two slain females by her

I fide, in a canoe, with articles of clothing and domestic im-
plements. She was the daughter of Concomly, and a wo-

Uan of more than common talents and respectability, a
tirai friend of white men, and more than once saved them
from slaughter. How dark was the mind of this talented

Loman, and how differently would she have conducted un-
lier the influence of divine revelation ! These Indians nev-

|er mention the name of their relatives after they are dead.
It is only in the lower country of the Oregon Territory,
nd along the coast, that slavery exists. It was formerly

[practiced in the upper country, but was long since abolish-
The Walla Walla tribe are descended from slaves

Iformerly owned and liberated by the Nez Perce Indians, and

|ire now a respectable tribe.
Gambling is also practiced among the lower Indians, and

Itarried to perfection. After they have lost every thing

|tliey possess, they will put themselves at stake ; first a hand,

od if unsuccessful, the other ; after this an arm, and in the

ame manner, piece by piece, until all is lost except the heady

Dd at last their head, and if they lose this, they go into

erpetual slavery. If civilized men will gamble, it is de-

ible they should carry the game to the same perfection f

br then they would cease to be a pest in society, and how*
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ever different may be our sentiments upon the subject of
slavery, in this we should generally be agreed, that such
gamblers would not deserve commiseration. The Indians
however, do not set their souls at the hazard of the game^
as civilized gamblers do, when they imprecate the eternal
vengeance of God upon their souls if they are not success-
ful. The Indian gambles away his inalienable rights for
time only.

It is a universal practice to indulge in smoking. When
they saturate their bodies with smoke^ thoy do it in a digni-
fied manner. They use but little tobacco, and with it they
mix freely a plant which renders the fume less offensive. It
is a social luxury, for the enjoyment of which,- they form a
circle, and only one pipe is used. The principal chief be-
gins by drawing three whiffs,, the first of which he sends
upward, and then passes the pipe to the next person in dig-
nity, and in like manner it passes around until it comes ta
the first chief again. He then draws four whiffs, the last
of which ho blows through his nose in two columns, in cir-
cling ascent, like a double-flued chimney. While thus em-
ployed, some topic of business is discussed, or some exploit
in the chase, or some story of the battle-field, is related;
and the whole is conducted with gravity. Their pipes are
variously constructed, and of different materials. Some of
them are wrought with much 'ibor and ingenuity of an ar-
gillaceous stone, of very fine texture, found at the north of
Queen Charlotte's island, of a blue-black color ; and which
is of the same kind of ston& as that found upon the head,
waters of the Missouri, except in color, the latter of which
is brick red. Tiiese stones, . when first taken out of the
quarries, are soft and are easily worked with a knil^, but
on being exposed to the air they become hard, and take a
very good polish.

The Indians in the lower ocuntry are more indolent than
in the upper ; and the common motives for industry operate

THE LOWEE COlrtfTBT.

247-

rcversely from those in civilized communities. The

Lore they can get for their labor, the less they will do ; the

I more they can get for an article in sale, the less they will'
ring into market. Their wamts are but ^eWf and when

I these are supplied they will do no more. They have no dis-
position to hoard up treasures^ nor any enlarged plans tc
execute^ requiring expense and labor. If they have any
particular present want to supply, they will do only what is
sufficient to«atisfy it, and make no farther effort until urged
bv a returning necessity. To make them industrious and
provident, you must induce them to set a higher estimate
upon the comforts of life, and show them that they are at-
tainable, and that there is an increase of happiness growing
out of industry ; and they must be taught by experience.

I Abstract reasoning and theories are of no avail with the
idians. They must be taught experimentally, .at their own
houses, and upon their own lands. An Indi«n^may be taken
abroad and instructedr and convineed of the advantages of
civilization above heathanism, and if sent back to his coun-
tr\' alone, he will become discouraged, and return te his
former habits. Experimental farmers and missionaries
must go among them, and make it the business of their
lives to do them good, and identify their own interests with

I theirs. Charging indolence, and insensibility^ and cruelty,
upon them will never make them wiser or better. He is

I the true philanthropist, who, instead of passing by on the
other side, goes to them, and does all in his power to raise
them from their^ degradation, and bring them to God and to

[heaven.
The Indians of the lower country, -although less anxious

I to be instructed in the things of religion, than in the upper
country, yet express a readiness to receive instructors. I ,
have not found among them, nor among any Indians beyond
the influence of frontier settlements, anything like what
hag been .stated ta have taken place ia other sections of our.-

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country, and in other times : that they will listen to state.
ments made by missionaries, and give their assent to wliat
is said as very good ; and then state their own theories of
religion, expecting the same courteous assent in return.
Neither have I seen any disposition manifested, to say tlie
christian religion is very good for white men, but us red
men differ, they need a different religion and mode of lile.
They have not yet been instigated by infidels to say sijcli
things. They are conscious of their ignorance of God and
salvation, and of the various arts and sciences. While an
indifference and apathy characterize some, which is dis.
couraging, yet there has been nothing manifested which is
forbidding.

While gratitude is a general characteristic of Indians,
yet they have in some cases their peculiar way of express.
ing it. An Indian had a son laboring for a long time under
a languishing and dangerous complaint. Their medicine
men had done all they could for him, but without success.
The father brought his son to the hospital at Fort Vancou.
ver, and earnestly desired to have him treated with care
and with the best medical attendance. The sick son was
received, and in about six months was restored to good
health. When his father came to take him home, he re-
marked to Doct. McL. " my son is a good boy, he has been
with you a long time, and I think you must love him ; and
now as he is about to leave you, will you not give him a
blanket and shirt, and as many other small things as you
think will be good ? We shall always love you "

The lower Indians make their medicine, in some particu-
lars, differently from those farther east. Their professed
object is to obtain present relief, if not a radical cure ; to
assuage the sorrow of the relatives if the patient dies, and
that he may die more easily, and his soul may be rendered
more capable of performing its journey to its far distant
and happy country. The process is simple, and occupies

THE LOWER COUNTRY.

249

five 09 six hours. The patient is laid upon a bed of mats
and blankets, sometimes a little elevated, and surrounded by
I a frame work. Two " medicine men" place themselves up-
on this frame, and commence a chant in a low, long-drawn
voice, each holding a wand in his hand, three or four feet
long, with which they beat upon the frame, keeping time
ffith their tune. They gradually increase the loudness
and the movement of their medicine song, with a corres-
pondent use of their wand, until the noise becomes almost
deafening, and undoubtedly often hurries the patient out of
the world.. During this time the neap relations appear to
be perfectly indifferent to the condition of the sick person,
lest their anxiety should affect the influence of the charm,
and they are generally employed about their common busi-
ness, such as the women making mats,'baskets, and mocca-
sons ; and the men are lolling about, smoking, or convers-
ing upon common subjects. In some cases, especially, if
their confidence in the medicine man issmall^ th^ mani.
fast much affliction and concern ; and in ah cases after the
person dies, they make great lamentation.
, I have already mentioned the practice of the lower In-
dians of flattening their heads and piercing their noses.
But another reported custom, of having pieces of sea-
horse's tusks, or oval pieces of wood an inch and a half
long and an inch wide, inserted into a hole in their under
lip, made for the purpose, is not correct in regard to any of
the Indians in this section of country. Captain Beechy
mentions this as a common practice from Norton's island
and northward ; which was noticed by Deshnow as long
ago as 1648, worn by men, and by women about Prince
William's sound, and which custom, Captain B. says, is
common the whole distance along the western shores of
America, as far as to California. I saw some specimens of
this ornament, or rather deformity, which were worn by
the Indians at Millbank Sound.

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THE INDIANS OF

The wealth of the lower Indians is estimated by the
number of their wives, slaves, and canoes. Every Indian
of any distinction takes as many wives as he is able to sup.
port, and his wealth is supposed to accord with the number.
They are quite destitute of horses, and their almost only
mode of traveling is in canoes ; for the forests are so dense
that they are nearly impeneirable, and they do not construct
any roads. As the upper Indians excel in horsemanship,
80 these excel in the management of their canoes. These
are uncommonly well made, and of various sizes, from
twelve to thirty feet long ; the largest will carry as much as
a good bateau. They are generally made of the fir tree.
Their bow and stern are raised high, so as to meet and ward
off the boisterous waves, and the bow is sometimes decora,
ted with figures of animals. Slaves are employed in pro.
polling the canoes, but not exclusively ; for often the chiefs
will perform their part of the labor, and the women are
equally expert with the men.

Their manufactures do not widely differ from those of
the upper country, only with the addition of hats and bask,
ets of uncommonly good workmanship, mp.de of grass of
superior quality, equal to the Leghorn. The native hats
are a fiaring cone. Their baskets are worked so closely as
to hold water, and are used for pails. Some of them are
interwoven with various colors and devices, representing
fancifully, men, horses, and flowers.

The government of the Indian nations is in the hands of
chiefs, whose ofiice is hereditary, or obtained by some spe.
cial merit. Their only power is influence ; and this is in
proportion to their wisdom, benevolence, and courage.
They do not exercise authority by command, but use their
influence by persuasion, stating what in their judgement
they believe to be right and for the greatest good of their
tribe or nation, or of any family or community. The chiefs
have no power of levying taxes, and they are so much in the

THE LOWER COUNTBY.

251

habit of contributing their own property for individual or
pubJic good, that they are not generally wealthy. Their in-
fluence, however, is great ; for they rarely express an opin-
ion or desire, which is not readily assented to and followed.
Any unreasonable dissent is subdued by the common voice
of the people. Probably there is no goverument upon earth
where there is so much personal and political freedom, and
at the same time so little anarchy ; and I can unhesitating-
ly say, that I have no where witnessed so much subordina-
tion, peace, and friendship as among the Indians in the Or-
egon Territory. The day may be rued, when their order
and harmony shall be interrupted by any instrumentality
whatever.

There are exceptions, however, to the general fact of the
good conduct of the chiefs and the respect which is given
them. Cazenove, the first chief of the Chenook nation, is
one. He was a great warrior, and before the desolating
sickness, which commenced in the year 1829, be could bring
a thousand warriors into action. He is a man of talents,
and his personal appearance is noble, and ought to repre-
sent a nature kind and generous ; but such is his character,
that his influence is retained among his people more by fear
than by affection. I saw him often, and several times at my
room, while at Fort Vancouver. On Tuesday, February
2d, I attended the funeral of his only son, and heir to his
chieftainship, a young man, who had lingered under a pro-
tracted disease. Cazenove departed from the long estab-
lished custom of his nation and fathers, of depositing their
dead in canoes, and had him buried in the cemetery of the
Fort, in the decent manner of civilized people. He had
the coffin made large for the purpose of putting into ic
clothing, blankets, and such other articles, as he supposed
necessary for his comfort in the world to which he was
gone. Every thing connected with the ceremony of his
interment was conducted with great propriety. I was not

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■THE INDIANS OF

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at the time furnished with an interpreter, but addressed
those present who understood EngHsh. Cazenove express-
ed his satisfaction that an address was given, considering it
an expression of respect for his son ; and he appeared sol.
cmn in his affliction, indulging tears only, and not any loud
lamentations. Had he conducted with equal propriety sub-
ecquently, he would have been worthy of commendation.
But he did not, for when he returned to his dwelling that
evening, he attempted to kill the mother of this deceased
eon, and who was the daughter of Concomly, and formerly
the wife of Mr. McDougal. The chiefs say, that they and
their sons are too great to die of themselves, and although i
they may be sick, and decline, and die, as others do, yet
some body, or some evil spirit instigated by some body, is
the invisible cause of their death ; and therefore when a
chief, or chief's son dies, the supposed author of the deed
^ust be killed. Cazenove, on this occasion, fixed on the
mother of this son as the victim of his rage, notwithstand.
ing she had been most assiduous in her attention to him,
during his protracted sickness. Of his several wives, she
was the most beloved, and his misguided mind led him tol
believe, that the greater the sacrifice, the greater the man.
ifcstation of his attachment to his son, and the more propi.
tiatory to his departed spirit. She fled into the woods, and
the next morning, when the gates were opened, she came
into this fort and implored protection. She was secreted
here several days, until her friends at Chenook Bay heardi
of her situation, and came and secretly took her away.
Some days after this, a woman was found killed by the hand
of violence, and it was supposed it was done by Cuzenovel
.or by some one in his employ.

C0NVEB8ATI0N WITH AN INDIAN.

253

* ■
I"

CHAPTER XIX.

'«- » T: '-It .

Conversation with an intelligent Indian— meeting with Indiana— «ariy
and mild season — La Dalle Indians — their anxiety to receive the gos-
pel— ornithology— Nootka humming bird — number and location of the
Indians in the lower country — Indians of the north — the agitated
question — solitariness.

A VERY intelligent and influential Indian from the Cas-
cades called at my room, on the 8th of February, to en-
quire about God. I endeavored to obtain from him his own
system of religion. He said, he believed there is a God,
and he supposed he made all things, but did not know
any thing more about him. I questioned him in regcrd to
his belief of a future state, and what he expected would be-
come of him when he died. He said he did not know. He
supposed, that he should have an existence after death, but
did not know of what sort it would be ; and wished I wouid
lell him. I endeavored to enlighten his mind, and to un-
fold to him the great fundamental truths of God and eter-
nity, and the way to be saved. He listened with attention,
and appeared sober. He told me the Indirns were growing
better ; that they did not kill each other in wars as in times
past ; that they did not rob and steal as heretofore. I told
aim that was good, but to be saved, they must repent and re-
ceive the Savior by faith, as the only one who could
nve sinners. So l)enighted arc the minds of these hea-
then, and so barren their language upon spiritual and invis-
ible subjects, that I had to use such illustrations, as I judg-
ed the best adapted to convoy to his mind divine trttth, and
ido not doubt, but thnt he received some divine knowledge.

The next day he called again, and wished me to take his
22

'»

254

SERVICE WITH THE INDIANS.

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children and teach them how to read and write, and how
to worship God. I endeavored to explain to him the object
of ray tour, and that when I returned, I would use my influ.
ence to have others come and live among them. But he
wanted to have me continue with them and instruct them.
And when I told him I must go, and endeavor to get sever.
al to come and teach in difTereut tribes, he wished to know
how many sleeps it would take me to go, and how many
sleeps before others would come. I told him it would be a
great number. He wished to know if it would be moons.
I answered in the affirmative, and told him it would be at
least two snows. He paused and looked sorrowful. His
very look affected me ; he arose and went out.

Sabbath, 14th. I attended service as usual in English.
There were many Indians from the La Dalles who wisii. i
ed to know if they might be present. We told them there I
would not be sufficient room in the hall ; but a few or|
their chiefs might attend, and that after the English service,
I would have service with them ; and I met with them in j
the afternoon. They were punctual at the hour, and came
in single file, the first chief leading the way. When I
prayed with them, they all kneeled down except two or three,)
and these were reprimanded by the chief for impropriety of
conduct, which was soberly received and implicitly obeyed.!
As on other similar occasions, I endeavoi*ed to instruct them
in the first principles of our revealed religion ; to which
they gave close attention. The first chief, at the close o(
service wished to speak ; and on permission being given, hel
spoke a short time to his people, and then told me ho liad
prayed much to the Great fci>irit, and found his heart was]
no better, but worse. He said, a white man gave them al
flag, and told them to set it up on a pole, on Sundays, and!
meet and pray, sing their songs, and dnnro around the pole
bearing the flag ; and that they had done so a long time'

* The reason assigned for including dancing in rhc services of tho \\o\

'\.

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I-

EARLY SPRING.

255

He wished to know if it was right. I told him it was right
to meet on the sabbath, and pray, and sing, and talk about
God, but to dance on the sabbath was very wrong, and would
offend God. I added farther, that they needed some person
to teach them in the right way to worship God and to be
saved. He was affected, and kneeled down and with tears
in bis eyes said, if you must go away, do send us somebody
to teach us the right way to serve God. We will now
throw away what the man said to us about dancing. We
will go to our people and tell them what you have c^aid, and
we will worship God as you have taught us. I never felt so
much like weeping over the heathen, as on this occasion ;
to see this poor benighted Indian chief upon his knees, and
with tears in his eyes pleading for some one to come and
teach them the way to heaven. What a spectacle for
angels!

March 1st. We have many indications of the presence
of spring. The mildness of the climate, and the soft tem.
perature of the season, west of the mountains, render it one
of the most delightful portions of our continent. The wide
and often sudden extremes of heat and cold, to which the
eastern portions are subject, are almost unknown here, and
while it is more agreeable to our feelings, it is also more fa.
vorable to health* Those who have the charge of the
farming establishment at this place, have commenced thus
early to cultivate their spring crops ; and the gardener is pre-
paring his ground for the seeds. The grass in the yard be-
gins to assume its beautiful, fresh green. The robin and
blackbird have continued here through the winter, and now,
with some others of their feathered brethren, resume their
cheerful warblings in the fields and groves. During the

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ly sabbath, was the fcor, that singing and praying, without dancing,
would not interest the Indians ; and to include it, would not lie so great
a departure from their coromon practices, as to excite aversion to pure
worship.

256

LA DALLE INDIANS.

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winter, the thermometer has not fallen below 22° Fahrenheit,
and to this point only three days. At this date it stood,
at sunrise, at 37° ; at noon, 46° ; and at sunset at 44°.
The rains through the winter have been less constant and
heavy than I had anticipated ; and snow has fallen only ten
days, sometimes in trifling quantities, and at no one time
over the depth of six inches, and has remained on the ground
only a few days. Some have supposed, that the genial cli.
mate of the Oregon Territory is attributable to the proximi.
ty of the great Pacific, shedding the influence of its soft
winds far into the interior. But the fact is, that almost the
only winds through the winter are easterly winds, conse.
quently coming direct from the regions of perpetual snow.

Swallows made their appearance on the 12th of RIarch ;
and among them a new species, characterized by the pfu.
mage of their head and back being a most beautiful change.
able green, with other parts purple and white.

A number of the La Dalles Indians arrived to-day, who
reside eighty miles di-^tant. One of their chiefs stated to
my friend Mr. T. that they had changed their mode of
worship ; that they do not now dance on the sabbath, as
they used to do, but they meet, and sing, and pray ; and
that since they have been better acquainted with the way
to worship God, He hears their prayers, and that now,
when they, and their wives and children, are hungry, they
pray for deer, and they go out to hunt, and God sends them
deer to satisfy their wants. It was interesting to know
that they were disposed to do, as well as listen to, what is
taught them.

Sabbath, 13th. Besides the usual service in the hall in
English, I met the Indians from the La Dalles, and endeav-
ored to exhibit to them the great truths of the Bible. They
listened with deep interest to what I said, and then enquir-
ed whether they might expect, after I should go away, that
some one would como and teach them. I could not promise,

THE NOOTKA HUMMING BIRD.

257

but replied, that I hoped it would not be more than two
snows, before some one would be sent. They enquired if
after one or two sleeps, I would let them come to my room
and hear more about God. I appointed to meet them on
Tuesday afternoon, and spoke with them several succeed*
ing times before their departure.

It seems apparent to any observing christian, that the
present is the favorable time for the introduction of the
gospel and civilization among the natives of this wide in.
terior. Soon the cupidity and avarice of men will make
the same aggressions here, as on the east, and the deadly in-
fluence of frontier vices will interpose a barrier to the reli-
gion which they now are so anxious to embrace and prac-
tice. Every circumstance combines to point out the time
when this work should begin, and not the Ictist is that, which
has enlisted these Indians in favor of white men, and made
them feel that their condition, in all respects, for this world,
as well as the coming one, is better than their own. A
well-established christian influence among these tribes,
would surely be respected by any, who otherwise would in-
vade their rights, and deprive them of a home dear to them,
as our own is to us.

March 24th. The season is progressing in delightful
mildness. Flowering shrubbery and plants are bcgining to
send forth their fragrance ; and the Nootka humming bird
has arrived, and is seen darting from bush to bush, feeding
upon the opening flowers. This most splendid species is
not known east of the mountains. The whole of the upper
part of the body is rufous, its head greenish, its throat cupre-
ous and metalloidal crimson, varying according to the inci-
dence of light. The throat of this species resembles that
of the common, except, that it is even more gorgeous in its
colors, and in presenting the metalic feathers, forms a broad
ruif in the inferior part of the neck, instead of being whol-

ly a component part of the plumage. A new species of
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266

THE INDIAir

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blue bird of uncommonly beautiful plumage; arrived on the
14th. The swan, the several species of geese, and the sand
hill crane, are passing to the north for incubation. Their
screaming notes are constantly heard, and in the night not
the most inviting to repose.

Before leaving the lower country, it will be proper to pre.
sent, in a connected point of view, the best informati(»i I
have been able to obtain of the several nations, their loca-
tions, and numbers. There are several tribes, about whom
my knowledge is too limited, to make any definite state,
ments. Among these are those about Pugets Sound, and the
upper part of the Cowlitz ; also the Chiltz Indians, north
of the mouth of the Columbia and Chealis rivers. And al.
though I have seen many of the Klicatat nation, who re-
side at the north of the Cascades, yet I have not been able
to learn of them any thing more definite, than that they arc
a large nation. The Chenook nation resides along upon
the Columbia river, from the Cascades to its confluence
with the ocean, and though once numei'ous and powerful,
they do not now number more than fifteen hundred, or two
thousand. The Calanooah nation arc located south of the
Chenooks, upon the Willamette river and its branches.
They are divided into seventeen different tribes, under their
respective chiefs, and number about eight thousand seven
hundred and eighty persons, who speak the same language,
radically, with only a little difference in dialect. They are
scattered over a territory of two hundred miles, north and
south, and sixty east and weat. Their country is uncom-
monly good.

South of the Calapooah is the Umbaqu& nation, residing
in a valley of the same name. They are divided into six
tribes; the Sconta, Chalula, Palakahu, Quattamya, and
Chaste. Their number is about seven thousand. South
of this nation and north of California, there was a very
powerful nation called the Kincl&, which, before the year
J 629, numbered four thousand warriors. But, if they have

iP.v..-'

V *.

NATIOlfS.

259

been swept away by sickness, as the other nations of the
lovrer country have, it is probable their whole number of men,
women, and children, would not now amount to more than
eight thousand.

Near the mouth of the Columbia, along the coast, are the
Killamooks who are numerous, but their numbers are not
known. South of these, and at the mouth of the Umbaqu£L
river, there are the Saliutla, and two other tribes supposed
to number 2050 persons.

This estimate of the Indians, in the lower country, makes
the number of those known, to be about twenty-five thou-
sand. This is probably a low estimate. It may safely be
concluded from facts now collected, that there are, between
the 42° and 47° north latitude, in what we term the lower
country, as many as twenty -five thousand more, making
fifty thousand, who at the present moment would gladly re-
ceive teachers.

Gentlemen of the Hudson Bay Company gave the follow.
iog statements of the number of Indians north of Pugets
Sound ; viz. at Millbank Sound, three tribes, numbering
two thousand one hundred and eighty.six. At Hygdna
Harbor, five tribes or bands, amounting to two thousand
ninety-two. At Queen Charlottes Island, eleven tribes,
numbering eight thousand six hundred persons. About
Hanaga and Chatham Straits, there are nine tribes, con-
taining six thousand one hundred and sixty persons. Ma-
king the whole number of inhabitants, at and about these
places between the 47° and 55° of north latitude, nineteen
thousand thirty.eight. At Queen Charlottes Island there is
a field of much promise for a missionary station, where the
necessaries of life could be easily obtained, and for that high
northern latitude, the climate is very mild.

Their summer and winter residences are built of split
plank, in about the same manner as those of the Chenooks.
It is said they are well supplied with fish, fowl, oil, berries,
and potatoes of superior quality and in great abundance ;

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260

DUELING.

and wild meat is sometimes obtained. Their dress is much
the same as what has already been described. Polygamy
prevails, and also slavery. They do not treat their slaves
as kindly, as the Indians in the lower country of the Oregon
Territory treat theirs. They think no more of killing their
slaves than the loss of property. Sometimes when one
chief becomes offended with another, instead of fighting a
duel, he goes home and kills a certain number of slaves, and
challenges the other to kill as many. The challenged per.
son, if he can, kills as many or more, and notifies the chal-
lenger of the number ; and thus they proceed until one or
the other gains the victory; and the one who fails in
this mode of combat ceases to be a gentleman. " The point
of honor " with these barbarous gentry is fixed higher than
in our christian country, for here the life of one satisfies the
powerfiil principle, but there blood must flow profusely to
quench the noble fire of high minded revenge. They are
not unfrequently engaged in wars, which are often very
bloody.

They are much addicted to gambling, singing, and
dancing; and it is said their voices excel. The coun.
try is mountainous, and is generally covered with dense for-
ests, consisting mostly of fir.

On and about McKenzie river there are six tribes of I
Indians, making a population of about four thousand two
hundred and seventy-five. The climate is very cold and
unpleasant ; but as cold and uninviting as it is, the Hudson
Bay Company have found men who are willing to reside
there in sufliicient numbers to make six establishments, for
the purpose of obtaining the peltries which the Indians col-
lect. Their principal establishment, which is Fort Simp-
son, is on the upper part of the river and is a place of much
resort for the Indians.

March 26 th. Rode down once more to the lower plains,
OS they are called, and was delighted with the freshness of I
the wheat fields, which are beginning to wave in the gentle !

THE AOITATXD QUKSTION.

261

breezes, and the forest trees are beginning to show their
leaves, and the plants their flowers. The sea fowl, which
through the winter covered these fields, are gone to their
summer residences, and the little feathered tribes are tuning
their notes, which though less in sound than the swan, are
vet more full of melodv.

Whose country is this? is a question which has been agi-
tated in the parliament of Great Britian and in the congress
of the United States. The natives claim i : as theirs, and
say they only permit white men to reside among them. But
the governments of Great Britain and of the United States
have assumed the right to lay their claims ; Great Britain
claiming the Columbia river for their southern boundary,
and the United States the 49° of north latitude for their
northern boundary. The two governments have discuss-
ed the question, but postponed it until 1838, when it is to
be again taken up for discussion. The United States claims
the 49° on the ground, that as that parallel is established on
the east side of the Rocky Mountains, so by parity of rea-
soning, it should be continued to the Pacific ocean. Great
Britain claims the Columbia river, for her southern bound-
ary, by right of discovery ; Captain Broughton of the ship
Chatham, having ascended the river with two boats, as far
as to where Fort Vancouver is now situated, and having
formally taken possession of the river and country in the
Dame of his Britannic Majesty, on the 31st of October,
1792. Captain Broughton was associated with Captain
Vancouver of the ship Discovery, on a voyage of discove-
ry in the north Pacific, and around the world. The posses-
sion was taken in his Britannic Majesty's name in due form.
A friendly old chief, who did not understand a word of their
language, nor they a word of his, was invited to join in the
ceremony, and to drink his Majesty's health. Captain
Broughton says the chief appeared much pleased with the
transaction. But it may be a subject of inquiry, with

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SOLITABINESS. Vl*!'

which the old friendly chief was best pleased, with the rum
he drank on the occasion, or with the ceremony which was
so full of import ? And farther, did the chief, by partaking
of his Majesty's rum and joining in the ceremony, cede all
this country to be the bona fide property of a foreign na-
tion ? These deep and intricate questions I leave for learn,
ed diplomatists to decide, retaining my private opinion that
the Indians have a priority of claim.

The time has arrived when I expect to resume the work
of further exploration. The weeks and months which I
have spent here have fled rapidly away, while I have been
feebly endeavoring during the winter to benefit the people
of the fort, and the Indians ; and to embrace all the oppor.
tunities that should present, to collect information in those
particulars which pertain to the direct object of my tour.
I shall wander for a length of time, yet future, among the wild
Rcenes of nature, which have so giatified and delighted me
in traversing the wilderness of forest and prairie ; but my
heart looks back to a variety of the interesting scenes of {
civilized life and cultivated society in my own far distant
|and« and I ardently desire to see the wide field lying before
me, brought under the same beauty and cultivation. All the
social afiections of our nature strongly desire the happiness, |
which refined and christian society and its concomitant
blessings can alone give. A feeling of solitariness, and of
desolation comes over the mind as you stand on the banks
of the noble Columbia, and perhaps for weeks, it may be for
months, no whitened sail becomes visible to the gaze of your
watching eye. At length a ship enters its waters, and the
Indians hasten fifty miles to tell you the white man's great
canoe, with its three upright sticks, is on its way, to bring
a new supply of blankets, beads, and tobacco. The most
unimportant incidents become interesting events, where so|
much monotony exists.

Monday, 11th April. Having made arrangements to leave

LIBERALITY.

263

this place on the 14th, I called upon the chief clerk for my
bill. He said the Company had made no bill against me,
but felt a pleasure in gratuitously conferring all they have
done for the benefit of the object in which I am engaged.
In justice to my own feelings, and in gratitude to the Hon.
orable Company, I would bear testimony to their consist-
ent politeness and generosity ; and while I do this, I would
express my anxiety for their salvation, and that they may
be rewarded in spiritual blessings. In addition to the ci-
vilities I had received as a guest, I had drawn upon their
store for clothing, for goods to pay my Indians, whom I had
employed to convey me in canoes, in my various journey-
ings, hundreds of miles ; to pay my guides and interpreters ;
and have drawn upon their provision store for the support of
these men while in my employ.

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264

DXPASTUSB FOR THE UPPER OOVIfTSY.

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CHAPTER XX.

Departure for the upper country— American hunters— geology at the Cas-
cades — Indian honesty— dangerous escape in a gale — the Falls a fa-
vorable location for a missionary station— tender sympathy— famished
Indians — arrival at Walla Walla— interesting meeiing of Indians— op-
portunity to give them religious instruction— a walk — the nutritious
quality of prairie grass. ...

April 14th. Having exchanged farewells with the gen.
tlemen of the fort, whose kindness I shall ever remember,
I took passage in a canoe of an Indian chief belonging to
the La Dalles. Our company consisted of the chief and
his daughter, another Indian who took the bow, a half-blood,
named Baptiste, who took the stern, and two white men, who,
with the chief, helped propel the canoe, making seven per.
sons. These, with the baggage of several hundred weight,
loaded the frail craft so heavily, that its sides were only
about seven inches above water. This, upon a river aver,
aging about a mile in width, with many rapids, and subject
to winds, was not a pleasant undertaking. But at this sea.
son of the year, when the Indians are about to commence
fishing, another canoe could not be obtained.

We proceeded up the river about twelve miles, to what
are called the upper plains, on the north side of the river,
and encamped. This is a rich and beautiful prairie of some
miles in circumference, and at this early part of the spring
was covered with a coat of fresh green grass five or six
inches high. A little back from the river, there is a beau-
tiful lake, which is the resort of water fowl sailing about, ex*
hibiting their unsullied plumage ; and in the rear are
forests of fir, whither the deer, which crop the grass of

GEOLOGY AT THE CASCADES.

265

gy attheCae-
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thy — famished
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the prairie flee, when they see men ascend the river's bank.
\ gathering storm rendered the night dark, cold, and drea-
rv ; for as yet no friendly habitations are reared upon these
fertile tieldn for the resort and comfort of man.

Th( rain continuing with some wind, we did not decamp
on the morning of the 15th, until a late hour ; after which
we passed up into the mountainous part of the country he-
iow the Cascades, and encamped near the high Piliar rock
which I have mentioned. Soon after leaving our encamp,
ment this morning, we met Captain W. with a small com-
pany of men in two canoes lashed together, on their way to
Fort William upon WiLppatoo island. They were wet with
the rain of the morning ; and their meagre countenances
and tattered garments did not speak much in favor of the
happiness of mountain life, or that they had found the hun-
ter's eiysium. But they were in good spirits and passed
merrily on their way.

The basaltic rocks, which wall up the shores, in some
places two and three hundred feet perpendicular, and for
miles, do not loose in interest by review. For more than
half a mile the basalt presented the regular pentagons.
Near these, where the shore was inaccessable, we /ound a
deer almost exhausted with swimming in the cold water.
Its condition and its mild, large, black eye, excited by fear,
pleaded for the exercise of humanity ; but our men, instead
of rendering it that assistance which it needed, shot it, and
stained the pure water of the river with its blood. I could
not help feeling a sympathy for this poor, beautiful animal.

While the men, on the morning of the 16th, were enga-
ged in taking the canoe up the rapids and the Cascades, I
walked five miles, sometimes along the shore of the river,
and sometimes climbing over precipices ; and so laborious
was the task to get the canoe above all the rapids and falls,
that it occupied most of the day, giving me time for

examining the scenery around. Almost every variety of
23

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266

INDIAN HONESTY.

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volcanic production was to be seen, mostly basalt and amyg.
daloid. Large quantities of petrified wood were scattered
along the shores, some of which preserved its natural ap.
pcarancc, but the large blocks on being broken presented
the appearance of mineral coal. The scenery arounu is
grand ; yet such was the misty state of the atmosphere
about the tops of the mountains, which were at this time
covered with snow, and a chilliness accompanying, that the
enjoyment was less than would be felt under other circiim.
stances. After having finished the portage by the Cascades,
we launched out upon the gentle current above, and pro.
ceeded up the river two miles and encamped upon the north
side. Several Indians came to our encampment and man.
ifested & kind and sociable disposition. They told us that
Captain W. the day before, in cordelling his canoes down
the Cascades, lost one, and with it baggage, of which the\
had found some articles, and they would deliver them to
him when he should again pass this way. The Indians are
coming in from their winter retreats, and are engaged in
catching sturgeon.

The 17th being the sabbath, we did not remove. It was
a rainy day, ihe forepart of which, the rain came down like
torrents, which is common about these mountains through
the rainy season of the year. We were not able to makt
a fire for preparing food, until after twelve o'clock, when
the rain began to abate.

On Monday the weather was more pleasant, though chil
ly, and we made very good progress up the river, through |
a country of diversified scenery. Though less mountain-
ous, yet there were some mountains of interesting formo:|
one almost a perfect cone, a thousand feet high, rising at an
angle of 45 degrees, Ijeautifully smooth and covered with
grass. We passed, a few miles above tliis, a bluft* present-
ing a perpendicular semicircle, regularly stellated. In ditTer-
ent places there were red iiills of the color of weil-burntj

DANGEROUS OALE.

267

Itandamyg. I
re scattered |

natural ap. |
in presented i
:y arounu is i
! atmosphere
at this time
ying, that the \,
ither circum.
the Cascades,
>ve, and pro.
pon the north
ent and man-
y told us that

canoes down
of which they
jliver them to
le Indians are
re engaged in

nove. It was

ame down like .

tains through

able to make

o'clock^ when

t, thoiigh cliil-
river, through
ess mountain-
resting forms:
t\\, rising at an
covered with
blufi* present.
ated. In differ.
of well-burnt

brick. We encamped on the north side of the river, upon
a pleasant spot just above a small Indian villap;e, where we
found a good supply of dry wood, which added to both com-
fort and convenience.

A wind which blew very fresh through the night abated on
the morning of the ifth and we proceeded on our way with
a gentle breeze, before which v/e spread a sail made of a
blanket. The wind continued to increase until the middle
of the day, which rei; dered our navigation rather danger-
ous. We came to a large bend in the river, and to save the
distance of coasting around the bend, the men who rowed
the canoe, wished to pass over to the south side of the river,
which was here more than a mile wide. This seemed a
dangerous experiment, because the wind and waves were too
high for our deep-laden canoe ; but as they were anxious to
save labor, I did not persist in my objections. We had not
gotten more than half way across, before the increasing
wind raised waves which rolled and broke three times as
high es our canoe, and threatened to overwhelm us. At
length the men were not able to keep the canoe headed
across the waves, and it turned sideways to them. It seem-
ed that nothing short of a miraculous providence could save
us. After some time, by exertion and by some abatemt nt of
the wind, we got our canoe upon our course, and across the
waves, and safely arrived at the south shore. But our great-
est danger was not over. After coasting a few miles along
the south shore, we came to a promontory called Cape Horn,
a Dame given it on account of the dangers of passing it.
It is of basaltic formation, rising two hundred feet, as I af-
terwards found by measurement, perpendicular upon the
water's edge, extending about a mile in length, and the lower
end projecting several hundred feet into the river. The
wind had so far lulled, that wc did not npprclicnd any dan-
pfcr in passing it. When we had passed the Horn, tho wind
drew around and increased to a gale. The foaming, break-

r«i' ■> La •'

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268

EXTRAORDINARY ESCAPE.

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ing waves ran high, and we could not return against the
wind, and to go forward was to add to the danger of beinw
filled, or dashed against shoreless rocks. Such was the
force of the wind, and such the effort of the men to keen
the canoe across the waves and away from the rocks, that,
in the same instant of time, the bowman and the steers.
man both broke their paddles, and the sail broke away from
the left fastenings, and whirled over to the right. It seem.
ed that all hope was gone. There were only three paddles
left, two of which were immediately put into the hands of the
steersman and bowman. It was impossible to return, and
to make progress against the current, with only the remain-
ing means, up|)eared equally impracticable. A watery grave
seemed inevitable ; but so it was in the protecting mercy of
God, that when the waves broke, it was just without the ca.
noe. It was necessary in order to our safety to be coiiec
ted and fearless, and we cleared the sail, and gave orders as
though no danger was near. Contrary to even our highest
expectations, we continued tj make headway against the
current, assisted probably by one of those large eddys, whicli
abound in this river, until we came to a bay with a sandv
shore, where we put our frail barque in safely, and waited
until the winds and weather Iwcame more favorable.

Indians caiiic to us, of whom we bought prjdles; and
being again cquij)pc(l for our voyage, we proceeded up
the river to the La Dalles, and as far as we could safely go.
and encamped near ii very large eddy, where two years l)0.
fore nine men \\\m-c drowned by l)ein^ drawn into it, and tho
bateau capsi/od. Only one escaped, wiiich he effected hy
layin<]; liol<l of a bag containing some ein|)ty kegs. He was
carried Koine few miles down the river, and taken up by In.
(iiaiis who were passing on the river in a canoe. A nuinl)er
of Indians cauje to us witii horses, wlioui we engaged to
take us and our baggage to tlie navigai)le water above tliu
Fails.

CALL AT AN INDIAN LODGE.

269

The 20th, was occupied in passing the La Dalles and the
Falls, above which we encamped. The Indians in great
numbers are making their preparation for fishing. This
place affords a favorable location for missionaries. The
Indians resort here in large numbers for fishing and remain
usually through the summer, and some of them through the
year. An intercourse would be always open with surround-
ing tribes, and facilities would always be at hand both to dis-
seminate the truths of the gospel, and to obtain the means of
comfortable subsistence.

As soon as we were encamped, the Indians came around
us and their first enquiry was for pi pi (tobacco.) I am
much disgusted with this noxious plant, and am resolved to
diiimiss it as a necessary article to conciliate the Indians
by smoking the friendly pipe. If an Indian is suffering
witli hunger and nakedness, his first request is tobacco. As
we had parted with the Indians who came with us from
Fort Vancouver, we here engaged two others to assist uh
as far as to Walla Walla.

On the 21st, we took a bateau which was left here, and
made slow progress up the river against the current and
frequent rapids. Our progress was much the same on the
2'2d. This morning wliile encamped for breakfast, and the
men were making preparation, I went into a little village
near by, and called at a lodge where I found an elderly and
youngerly woman, and four little girls. I spake to tbcm in
the Chcnook language, but they did not understand it. I
then asked them by the language of signs, whose were those
children. The youngest woman told me three were hers,
but the eldest was an orphan, whom she had taken
to provide for as her own. She then proceeded to toll
mc a lamentable story of her orphan condition. Th i grand-
mother would every now and then put in a f^w sentences,
while she supported her chin upon her hand. So tender

were the accents, and so moving the sound of their voices,
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270

FAMISHED INDIANS.

that 1 felt affected with the narration, although I could not
understand a word of their language. As they proceeded
I could only nod assent. Their tenderness appeared to in-
crease by having a stranger's sympathy, and it was with re
luctance, that I had to leave them without being able to
point them to Him, who is touched with the feelings of our
infirmities, and who binds up the broken heart, and who
saves from sin. I said within myself, as I moved slowly
away to our encampment, surely these heathen are not sav.
ages.

Our encampment, on the 24th, was on the south side ol
the river, at a place of much resort for Indians, but who
had not come in from their winter retreat. There were
here many canoes drawn up a short distance from the shore.
and left without any apprehensions of their being stolen.
showing the confidence the Indians have in each others
honesty. They do not need guards, nor bolts and bars, and
state prisons.

To secure ourselves from a strong, cold wind, we selected
a place covered densely with wild broom corn of last years
growth yet standing, and in the rear of willows which here
skirted the shore of the river. Two Indians came to our
encampment, who were as distressed objects as I have seen.
They were not more than half covered with tattered skins
of rabits patched together ; and they were emaciated with
starvation. To relieve the sufferings of such objects ol
pity, the traveler needs to carry with him a store of cloth-
ing and provisions. It is distressing to see them, without
having the means of furnishing them substantial sup-
plies.

On the 25th, we made slow progress against the strong
current with our poorly manned bateau, and failing of ar-
riving at Walla Walla as we had hoped, we encamped under
the high basaltic rocks, where we found a small spot of soil
furnishing some wood. The next morning arrived at the

FULFILMENT OF PROMISE.

271

fort, where I met at the landing, a number of Nez Perce
Indians waiting my arrival. I felt much satisfaction in
seeing them, and in witnessing their tokens of affection. It
was like meeting old friends ; and there appeared to he so
much unfeigned sincerity in the reception they gave me,
that it inspired the hope, that the disposition they express
to learn the way of salvatio is based on a fouh-^ation more
[)ermanent than novelty. I had told a band of the Cayuse
Indiana last October, on my way down the river, I would
meet them here in the spring, and talk to them about God,
and the way to worship him. Many of them were hero
ready to attend to the fulfilment of my promise, and un-
doubtedly my arrival, at the appointed time confirmed their
confidence. Mr. Pambrun maiifestcd his usual friendship.

As the season is yet early, I judged it expedient to con-
tinue here two weeks, and improve such opi)ortunities as
miglit offer for instructing the Indians residing near this
place, and such as might come here from more remote pla-
ces ; making the best use of such facilities as can be ob-
tained, without waiting for a thorough knowledge of their
language, as the slow prudence of some persons would con-
sider indispensible to the commencement of teaching them
tlir way of eternal life. Their anxious curiosity to know
what the religion of the Bible is, cannot be kept awake while
its gratification is postponed, '^'he danger that delay v»'ill
result in indifierencc or disgusi is as great, as that an ear-
iy attempt to impart instruction may bo connected with im-
perfections.

During my continuance in this place, I i .cached, on the
sabbath, to the white people belonging to the fort in the
morning, and in the afternoon to the Indians of the Cay-
use, Walla Walla, and Nez Perce tribes ; ai>d also improved
other opportunities with the Indians besides on the sabbath.
They always gave good attention, and some api)ear to be
much interested. An instance of opposition to i!ie truths

■■|

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272

A WALK — GRAND SCENERY.

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of the gospel, however, occured here, proving the truth of
the scriptures, that the Savior is set for the fall and rising of
those who hear. A chief of the Cayuses, who several times
came to hear, disliked what was said about a plurality of
wives. He said he would not part with any of his ; for he
had always lived in sin, and was going to the place of burn.
ing, and it was too late for him, now he was getting old, to
repent and be saved ; and as he must go to that place, he
would go in all his sins, and would not alter his life. Those.
who are familiar with liic various methods to which sinners
resort, to avoid the convictions of truth and conscience,
may see in his deep-rooted hatred to holiness, that the oper.
ation of isin is the same in every unsanctified heart. Thii
is the onlv instance of open opposition, I witnessed uumv^
thv' Ju<liians ; nor does it characterize the Cayusu trihc.
Tiiiey ' ory i^nich resemble the Nez Pcrccs in their pciiccahle
di^voi^i^ori, .'«nd desire to be instructed in divine truth, «ind
the^ present in connection with the Wa'isi. Wallas a prom.
ising field of missionary labor.

May 3d. I walked down to the passage of the Colum.
bia through the basaltic mountain, two miles below the fort,
to take a more partic-lar view of the scenery, than cun be
taken in a hasty passage on the river. I ascended tlie moun-
tain, from the top of which I liad a fine prospect of the
country around, opening m every direction as far as the eye
can reach. All parts v,cre covered witli tijc fresh green of
spring vegetation. Very few forests were to be seen in any
direction, exceptii'^; upon the Blue mountains at the south :
but their disianiV presented mor'^ of V.u'. hazy blue, than the
distinctiveness of forests. Even at tliis disiancc, the per-
petual snows of Mount Hood at tlic west could be distinguish-
ed, and at the north-west. Mount Rainier near Pugets Sound;
and at the north and the east various parts of scattered
mountain. After some time employed in looking around
upon tlie vast expanse, I approached the perpendicular walk

NUTRITIOUS GRASS.

273

between which the Columbia decends, which are about three
hundred feet high, as I ascertained by the number of seconds
in the descent of large stones, which I threw from the brink of
the precipice ; the sounds of which I distinctly heard when
they struck upon the shore below. I found a great variety of
scoria and lava, the latter varying much in color and dens-
ity ; some sufficiently porous and light to swim upon water.
Two-thirds of the way down this deep channel, are two
high eminences called the Pillars, to which I descended.
They stand upon conical bases of eighty or a hundred feet
high above the river ; and above these bases rise nearly a
hundred feet perpendicular. They are a curiosity ; but
there are so many singular formations in this volcanic coun-
try, that curiosities became common. 1 returned, though
much fatigued with my long walk over prairie, and preci-
pices, and mountains, yet much gratified with the examina-
tion of the works of nature.

My horses and mule, which I had left with the Ncz Perce
Indians and were kept in their country, one hundred and
thirty miles east'of this place, were in April brought into
this neighbourhood. To-day, May r)th, they were caught
and brought to the fort. I was suri)riscd to find them in
fine order, with their coats shed, and in high spirits. They
had run out on the prairies without any shelter from
the storms, and nothing more to eat than what tlie remains of
the previous summer's growth ufTortled. VVho would liave
supposed, considering tlieir worn down condition, when I
left tliem in October, and with no other fare, tliey would
liave fattened during the winter. This fact shows the su-
jtorior mildness of the olimato, and nutritixe (luality of the
prairie grass, even after being dried up with the sninmcr
drouth. Anoiicr evidence of th(; truth of this remark
may Ix; seen in the condition of the cattl(» kept at this tort.
With nolhini! Piore to 1ml upon than what they finil upon the
itraiiics, thev now are not only in ffood order, Imt some of

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374

HIGH WIND.

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them are actually fat, and in as good condition for market,
as oxen driven from the stalls of New England.

Rode with Mr. P. ten miles up the river to the confluence
of the Lewis, or as it is called the Nez Perce river, with the
Columbia. They are both noble rivers; the Columbia,
near three-fourths of a mile, and the Nez perc6 a half mile
wide. The prospect around is very pleasing ; the soil i»
good, as evidenced by the fresh verdure, which is springing
up, luxuriantly, at this early season. A large band of hor.
ses belonging to a Walla Walla chief, are feeding at this
place. It is a curious fact, that the Indian horses do not
often stray from the place where they are left ; habit, how.
ever produced, is as good a safe guard as inclosures. Along
upon the shores of the river, I found calcedony and cor.
nelian.

The sixth was a very warm day, the thermometer stand.
ing at noon at 84°. Distant thunder was heard, which is
an unfrequent occurrence west of the great mountains. To.
wards and through the night the wind blew very strongly,
and so shook the bastion which I occupied, that it seemed
that it would be prostrated to the earth ; but such wind in
this particular section of country is common.

During the time of my cdntinuancc here, I had more fre-
quent opportunities to address the Indians, and in greater |
numbers, than I had anticipated. From the promise that {
the word of God shall not return void, but shall accomplish I
that where unto it is sent, may not the hope be indulged, that
some good fruits will be the result of these labors. The
Walla Walla tribe, though the descendants of emancipated
slaves, are not inferior to others, and are treated with thej
same respect.

JOURNEY TO THE NEZ PERCE COUNTRY.

275

CHAPTER XXI.

Journey to the Nez Perce country — funeral of a child— natural Bcei>ery~
worship on the sabbath— return to Walla Walla— industry of the Indi-
ans—battle ground — practice of smoking— journey to Colville.

In company with several Nez Perce Indians who had
come down from their own country to escort me, I com-
menced my journey on the ninth, and pursued the same
route hy which I came last autumn. Nothing eventful
marked our journey, and we arrived at the Snake or Lewis
river the evening of the eleventh, where we found several
lodges of the Nez Perces, who gave us a very cordial re-
ception, and a warm-hearted shake of the hand, the common
expression of Indian friendship. The night of our arrival
a little girl, of about six or seven years of age, died. The
morning of the twelfth they buried her. Every thing re-
lating to the ceremony was conducted with great propriety.
The grave was dug only about two feet deep. They have
no spades, and a sharpened stick was used to loosen the
earth, and this was removed with the hands ; and with their
hands they fill up the grave after the body is deposited in it.
A mat is laid in the grave, then the body wrapped in its blan-
ket with the child's drinking cup and spoon, made of horn ;
then a mat of rushes ivS spread over the whole, and filled up,
as al)ove described. In this instance, they had prepared a
cross to set up at the grave, most probably having been told
to do so by some Iroquois Indians, a few of whom, not in
the capacity of teachers, but as trappers in the employ of
the fur companies, I saw west of the mountains. One
grave in the same village had a cross standing over it, which

276

NATURAL SCENERY.

1^'*'?^?/

E.i.i-"'fc.j J

was the only relic of the kind I saw, together with this just
named, during my travels in the country. But as I view.
ed a cross of wood made my men's hands of no avail, to
benefit either the dead or the living, and far more likely
to operate as a salvo to a guilty conscience, or a stepping.
stone to idolatry, than to be understood in its spiritual sense
to refer to a crucifixion of our sins, I took this, which the
Indians had prepared, and broke it to pieces. I then tol<l
them we place a stone at the head and foot of the grave, o»n
ly to mark the place ; and without a murmer, they cheerful.
ly acquiesced, and adopted our custom.

As we proceeded up the river to the confluence of the
Cooscootske, on account of the high water in the river,
we had to pass over the huge precipices of basalt, at the foot
of which we traveled down last fall, and which I have men-
tioned. We were compelled often to approach very near
the brink, where it seemed as if we were almost suspended
over the dizzy depth of three hundred feet. We arrived at
the Cooscootske early in the aflernoon of the third day af-
ter leaving Walla Walla, making the distance about 120
miles. The whole country around had put on the loveli.
ness of spring, and divested itself of the dreariness of win-
ter, and the grandeur of the mountain scenery appeared
to rise before mn with new freshness and delight. The
Indians are assembling in great numbers from different and
distant parts of the country to enquire about the religion
that is to guide them to God and heaven ; and which they
also ihink, has power to elevate them in the scale of socie-
ty in this world, and place them on a level with intelligent
as well as christian white men.

On the north of the confluence of these two rivers, and
down the Nez Perce, the country is diversified with hills and
mountains of a great variety of forms, from five hundred to {
two thousand feet high. The volcanic and argillaceous stra-
ta are generally horizontal, but in some places thrown into I

THE OPTHALMY.

277

various degrees of inclination, from horizontal to perpen-
dicular ; in other places curved or waving. They have all
the regularity of works of art, raised up by human skill {
why should not then the power and skill of an Omnipotent
hand be acknowledged in these stupendous works ?

After having l)een several months where the Indians of
the lower country came daily under my observation, the
contrast between them and these with whom I now am, is
very noticeable. The former are more servile and abject,
both in their manners and spirit ; while the latter are truly
dignified and respectable in their manners and general np>
pcarance, far less enslaved to their appetites, or to those vi-
ces whose inevitable tendency is to degrade. They know
enough to set some estimate upon character, and have much
of the proud independence of freemen ; and are desiroi
possessing a consequence in the estimation of other peopie,
aod for this reason, no doubt, wish to be taught, and they
receive any instruction for their benefit with remarkable
docility.

Saturday, May 14th. Very many of the natives ar^
coining in for the purpose of keeping the sabbath with me ;
but as I have only a small prospect of the arrival of my in-
terpreter, I shall be left, probably, to commiserate their anx-
iety, while it will be out of my power to do them good.

I have frequent applications to prescribe for the opthaI«
my, with which the people are much afflicted, not only at
this present time, but whicii I should think is a prevalent
endemic. Calomel, applied in about the quantity of one
grain to eacli eye, once in twenty, four hours, I found to be
an efficacious remedy. No injurious effects were known to
have occurred from its use, and in most cases it was suc-
cessful.

The Nez Ferces have been celebrated for their skill and

hravery in war. This they have mentioned to me, but

they say they now are afraid to go to war ; for they do not
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278

WORSHIP ON THE SABBATH.

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now believe that all who fall in battle go to a happy coun.
try. They now believe there is no other way to be happy
here or hereafter, but by knowing and doing what God re-
quires. They have learned enough to fear the consequences
of dying unforgiven, but not sufficient to embrace the hope
and consolations of the gospel. I have been interested to
see the reasonings of their minds, and the results of their
reflections, amidst the dimness of so imperfect a knowledge
as they yet possess. It demonstrates that they are not in.
different to what they hear, and that their minds are inquis.
itive, and capable of thought and investigation. Tliey
have obtained light sufficient, at least, to show how great is
the darkness in which they have been enveloped ; and it is
to be hoped, that these efforts will be followed by efforts still
more efficient, until that meridian day foretold in prophc.
cy, flhall fully come, and these heathen be given with all
the remote ends of the earth to the Savior for a possession.
Sabbath, 16th. The interpreter I had been expecting did
not arrive, and consequently much of what I wished to say
to these hundreds of Indians, could not be communicated
for the want of a medium. I felt distressed for them. They
desired to celebrate the sabbath after a christian manner.
When the chiefs came and enquired what they should do, I
told them to collect the people into an assembly and spend
the hours of this sacred day in prayer and singing, and in
conversation on those things about which I formerly in.
structed them. They did so ; and it was truly affecting to
see their apparent reverence, order, and devotion, while 1
could not but know that their knowledge was limited indeed.
The voice of their singing echoed from the hills and vales, I
and I could not but hope, that the time will not be greatly |
future, when they will sing with the spirit and with the un-
dcrstanding. As a proof that they have acquired sonic cor-
rect ideas of spiritual worship, in distinction from the em-
ploymcnt of mere outward forms, Kentuc, my Indian wjiol

•istian manner.

RETURN TO WALLA WALLA.

279

attended me so faithfully on my outward route, came to me,
anxious to describe the different manner, in which he re-
garded the worship of the two chiefs, Charle and Tuetacus.
He said Charle prayed with his lips, but Tuetacus prayed
with his heart. Confession of sin appears to occupy much
of his prayers, and if there is one among this multitude,
who it may be hoped, has been everlastingly benefited by
the gospel, I should believe it is this man.

Monday, 16th. I had hitherto been somewhat undecided
what course to pursue in my future movements ; but came
to the conclusion to proceed to the place of Rendezvous,
and join the returning caravan, provided I could go by the
way of the Grand Round, and to the south-west of the
Snake river, and explore a part of the country which I had
not passed through the preceding autumn. But the Indians
chose to take the retired route of the Salmon river moun-
tains, to avoid danger from hostile Indians, as it was well
ascertained, that there was a party of Blackfcet warriors
ranging the territory west of the great mountains. I wish-
ed to explore the north>east branch of the Columbia, which
runs through an important part of the country, and upon
which, and its branches, many considerable tribes reside.
To return by the way my company would travel, and by
which I came, would be to leave the object of my tour only
partially accomplished ; and after giving the subject as de-
hberate a canvassing as I was capable, I concluded to return
to Walla Walla, procure guides and assistants, and go up the
Columbia as far as CoIviUe, which is the highest post of the
Hudson Pay Company, and about seven hundred miles, by
the traveled route, from the Pacific ocean. I informed the
Indians of my determination, who, though they evidently
preferred that I should accompany them, yet acquiesced in
the decision and showed more kindness than I expected.
They readily appointed Haminilpilt, one of tiieir young
chiefs, to attend me on my return down the river. After

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280

INDIAN INDUSTRY.

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WB'

writing several letters, to forward to the United States from

Rendezvous, we turned our faces to our proposed destina-

tion, and at night arrived at the village on the Nez Perce

river, where we had encamped on the eleventh.

At this place I was peculiarly gratified to notice the in.

dustry of these people. Some were engaged in catching

fish, of which they gave me some excellent salmon ; the
women and children were early out on horseback to pro.

cure the cowish root, which they often manufacture into
bread ; and when we left, only a few old persons and very
young children remained in their village. Five or six miles
from this village, up a small branch of this river, we passed
a spot, which some few years ago, was a battle-field be.
tween the Nez Perces and some other nation, whose name
I could not with certainty ascertain, but probably it was the
*t\ielca. The ground was judiciously chosen by the inva.
ding party, which was just back of a point of land coming
down near the stream of water, leaving only a narrow pass,
around which they opened a fire, while the Nez Perces, not
expecting the approach of a foe, were taken by surprise,
and fifteen or twenty of their number were killed. The
very spot where each individual fell, is now designated by a
pile of stones raised three and four feet high.

The country over which we passed to-day, the distance
of forty miles, was uncommonly pleasant, diversified with
hills and valleys and covered with its self-provided carpet
of lovely green. Several Indians came on after us and
traveled in company. Near night we encamped in a rich
valley, through which a considerable stream of water runs
to the north. Before it was dark a number more, whom I
recognized as former acquaintances, overtook us, apparent-
ly reluctant to separate from our company. I conversed
with them about the practice so universal among the men»
of using tobacco for smoking, a very expensive indulgence,
for which they pay almost as much as for their whole list

^•ii^ •!,?:.

BICH SOIL.

281

of comforts besides. In reply to my arguments to dissuade
them from its use, they said, " white men smoke." I ad-
mitted the truth, but told them that all white men are not
wise in every thing they do ; that they have practices
among some clases which are not good. They call tobac-
co, smoke. They remarked, " we are better then than white
men ; for they eat smoke," — meaning tobacco—" we do not
eat smoke." This to be sure was a mark of much shrewd-
ness, and wholly unanswerable. Such is their attachment
to this stupifying vegetable, that they will part with the last
article of food or clothing, or even with their own hands
take down the poles which uphold their dwellings, and sell
them for fuel to obtain it. In this view I regard it as a vice,
from which they should be rescued if practicable.

The 18th we continued our journey, and rode forty-five
miles over a more fertile tract than we passed yesterday, and
better supplied with wood. On the upper part of the Wal-
la Walla river is a delightful situation for a missionary es-
tablishment, having many advantages not found for some
distance around. It is, however, not so central for either
the Nez Percys, Cayuses, or Walla Wallas, as could be de
sired. Yet a mission located on this fertile field would draw
around an interesting settlement, who would fix down to cul-
tivate the soil, and to be instructed. How easily might the
plough go through these vallies, and what rich and abund^
ant harvests might be gathered by the hand of industry. But
even now the spontaneous growth of these vast plains, in-
cluding millions of acres, yield in such profusion, that not
the fiftieth part becomes the food of organic life. In some
places bands of Indians' horses are seen ; the timid deer
or hare ; the wary marmot, and the swift gazelle.
But these with all the other animals and insects consume so
small a proportion, that it can hardly be seen that there are
any occupants of these wide fields.

We experienced a long detention on tlie morning of the
24*

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282

JOURNEY TO COLVItK*

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19th, in consequence of our horses wandering into a ravine/
to which retreat wc could not easily trace them. They did
not, however, violate their rule, of making our encampment
for the time being, their home. We rode twenty-two miles
and arrived at Walla Walla. Much of the remainder of the
week was occupied in necessary arrangements for my north,
east tour, and in writing letters to friends. Mr. P. assist-
ed in obtaining Indian guides, and designated two French
voyageurs to be my assistants ; one of whom could speak-
some English. I concluded to take horses, and to go up
through the Spokein country, leaving the great bend of the
Columbia to the left some fifty or sixty miles, and when we
should return to take the river. This would give a more ex.
tended observation of the country, of the tribes who inhabit
it, and of their condition in regard to prospects of estab-
Ushing teachers among them.

On sabbath 22d, we had worship as usual, and the fo).
lowing day commenced the journey for Colvile. Our
course was in an easterly direction forty miles, and at night
we found a new place to lay our heads for rest, in a valley,
presenting all the appearance of the farmer's grass fields,
which are to be put under the mower's hand, and from which
he expects to receive a future gain. But the natives not ap-
preciating these sources of profit, neglect them altogether,
and gather only a scanty living from a few esculent roots/
which grow spontaneously in the waste.

PALOOSE INDIANS.

283

i CHAPTER XXII.

Paloose Indians— Pavilion river— extraordinary excavation— lost on th«
prairie— Indian principle— Spokein woods and country— Indian ferry —
Spokein valley— Granite — volcanic curiosities— fertile valley— worship
with the Spokeins— Mill river valley— arrival at Fort Colvile— descrip-
tion of the place— leave Colvile for Fort Okanagan— a mountain of
Marble— Grand Coule, or old bed of the Columbia— Okanagan descri-
bed— Long rapids— arrive at Walla Walla.

The morning of the 24th, we took a more northerly
course, and after traveling five hours over a somewhat high
but diversified country, we descended into a fertile vale,
through which flowed a small tributary of the Snake river.
Here we found a village of Paloose Indians who are a band
of the Nez Perce's. We hired them to assist us in crossing
the river which here is a half mile wide, and has a rapid
current. We had only a small canoe, which the strength of
the current carried more than a half mile down the river be-
fore we could gain the opposite shore. Three times we had
to encounter the stream, before every thing was safely over ;
and the horses made a strong effort to swim to the shore.
This, together with refitting, employed several hours. We
traveled up the Pavilion river which comes from the high
lands which divide the waters of this and the Spokein river.
The distance of fifteen or twenty miles this river is walled
up with basalt, generally high and perpendicular, in various
windings and forms. In some places the walls are spread
out so widely as to enclose large spaces of rich interval ; in
other places so closing upon the river as only to leave suffi*
cient space for the river to pass. The night was cold, the
thermometer standing on the morning of the 25th, at 34°.

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284

EXTRAORDINART EXCAVATIOPT.

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We pursued our way over hills and valleys of an entire
prairie, until we came to the south part of the Spokein
country. Near the summit level, which divides the waters
of the Snake and Spokein rivers, there is an interesting ex.
cavation, walled within by basaltic rocks. The pillars are
regular pentagons from two to four feet in diameter, in sec-
tions of various lengths, standing erect and closely joined,
making a wall from fifty to one hundred feet high. The exca.
vated enclosure though not in a regular form, yet is nearly
entire, containing fifty acres, or more. On the outside of
this wall, the earth is as high as the pillars, and gradually
slopes off* in hills and dales. By what agency this excava.
tion was formed, no rational theory, perhaps, can be given ;
for there is no appearance, as in many other places, of vol.
canic craters, and no signs of the action of water. That
these walls of basalt were forced up in dykes is rational, but
this leaves still unexplained the mystery of the excavation.
May it not have been a subsidence ? I passed through it
leisurely, and surveyed with admiration these huge crystals,
of dark materials truly, but showing not the less for that
circumstance, that certain laws govern the mineral world,
as well as the animal or vegetable. We passed to.day sev-
eral small villages of the Nez Perce and Spokein nations.
They all manifested a perfectly friendly disposition, but
they appeared to be poor, evidently in want of a comfortable
subsistence. We stopped for the night, after a ride of fifty
miles, near one of these villages of Spokeins. Their Ian.
guage differs almost entirely from any tribe or nation I have
yet seen. One of my Indian guides was sufficiently ac-
quainted with their language, to inform them of the object
of my tour through their country, with which they were not
only satisfied, but manifested an interest in it.

We took an early departure on the morning of the 26th,
but had traveled only a few hours before my Indian guides
lost the track and the course they should pursue. Becoming

^^'l'.^:.

LOST ON THE PRAIRIE.

285

confident they were not right, I alighted and set my pocket
compass, and discovered that instead of a north-east direc
tion, they were going west. Enquiring of them if they
knew where to find our course again, a young chief putting
his hand to his head, and with gestures expressing the con-
fusion of his mind, answered waiitu en soko, " I do not
know." Our situation was rather embarrassing. We
had very injudiciously left our rifles behind, and at about
equal distance from Walla Walla and Colvile, on a widely
extended prairie, with provisions adequate to our wants on*
ly for two days, and no probable means of obtaining more
until we should arrive at the fort ; to be lost under these cir-
cumstances was no pleasant affair. The point of a high
mountain we had passed was in view, and we might retrace
our path, and therefore I was determined not to lose sight
of this land-mark, until we should find the trail leading to
the Spokein river. While my guides went oflT in search of
it, I could hardly fail to find, even in our circumstances*
some amusement in the apathy of my two Frenchmen.
They are so confiding in Indian skill to find their way
through any country, as by intuition, that they will sing or
go to sleep with the same heedless indiflference when lost in
a wide wilderness, as when launched upon the waters of a
well known river, or performing the duties of the fort. They
appear wholly unconsious of danger on the approach of
hunger and starvation, until long after the last morsel is con-
sumed, and never borrow from futurity to add to the evils
that afilict them to-day. On this occasion these men spent
the time of our detention in calm repose. Afler some time
our guides returned and told me they had found some Spo-
kein Indians abbut a mile distant, who were traveling to.
wards the south, but then were stopped to refresh their hor-
ses. We proceeded to the place, and I engaged one of
them to assist us in finding the way to the main trail, or to
the Spokein river. He was a tall, intelligent-looking man-

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286

THE SFOKEIN WOODS.

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He mounted his horse, and set off with such speed, that, ja-
ded as our horses were, it was with difficulty we could keep
up with him. After going at this rate more than an hour
he stopped, and pointed us to a lake, and said we should
find the great trail on the east side. Lest we should again
lose our way, I was anxious to have him conduct us to their
village on the river, but could not prevail upon him to go
any farther, although I offered him a large compensation.
His only and unvarying answer was, that he had done foi
us all that was needed, and why should he perform any ur,-
necessary labor for us and take pay. It appeared to be a
principle with him, that it would be wrong for him to take
pay for what we did not need. I was astonished at the hon.
esty of this heathen, and his steadfast adherence to it, \^hen
I remembered how many there are in civilized lands, who,
to be well paid, would lengthen a service to an unnecessary
extent, and who would artfully deceive you to make you be.
lieve it very important. For his faithfulness and Jiaiesty I
not only paid him on the spot to his satisfaction, bu<. after,
ward sent him a present of powder and balls, articles high-
ly valued.

Without any farther difficulty, we arrived at th3 Spokein
river, at four o'clock P. M. A few miles after we left the
lake, we entered the Spokein woods which are very exten-
sive, consisting of yellow, pitch, and elastic pino, some hem.
loc, spruce, and fir; together with various shrubbery.
These are the woods in which Ross Cox was lost, about the
circumstances of which, he gives a very interesting descrip.
tion, but which, so far as I have had as yet an opportunity
to judge, contains far more fiction than truth. But his mul-
titude of growling bears, and howling wolves, and alarming |
rattle snakes, of which I have seen only one, may yet come
out from their lurking places in hostile array.

When we came to the river, which is about thirty rods I
wide, we hallooed a long time for the Indian who keeps a I

i^'-

SFOKEIN VALLEY.

287

canoe ferry, but without success. At length two women
came to the river, and with uncominonly pleasant voices,
together with the language of signs, the latter of which
only I could understand, informed us that the ferryman was
gone upon a short hunt, would return in the evening, and
the next morning at sun two hours high, he would come
and take us over. I never heard voices more expressive of
kindness. I requested them to paddle the canoe over to us,
and my men would perform the labor of ferrying over our
baggage. They declined on account of the rapidity and
strength of the current, the river being in full freshet.
Therefore we had to encamp and wait for the morning.

This is a very pleasant, open valley, though not exten-
sively wide. The North-west Company had a trading post
here, one bastion of which is still standing. These woods
present a fine range for the ornithologist. The magpie is
seen in great numbers, flying from tree to tree, vociferating
their chattering notes. Also thrushes, warblers, and wrens,
are numerous, cheering those otherwise solitary wilds with
their delightful songs, grateful to the weary traveler. Their
carols appear to be designed to animate each other in their
intervals of labor, while constructing their fabric admirably
adapted for the habitation of their tender offspring ; on an
examination of which, the most infidel philosopher must be
astonished, and be constrained to acknowledge, that God
has manifested himself in supplying, instead of reason, a
mysterious, unerring instinct, always sufficient for the end
to be accomplished.

On the 27th, about the time in the morning mentioned by
the two women, the Indian ferryman came, and crossed the
river in his canoe. His appearence, together with that of
his canoe, reminded me of Eneas' ferryman, who carried
him over the Stygian lake.

Canites inculta jacet ;
Sordidus ex humeris nodo depcndet amictus,
Coeruleam advertit cymbam, ripajque propinquat.

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288

VOLCANIC CURIOSITIES.

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After the river, we crossed the valley of level alluvial
soil, where it is about a mile and a quarter wide, and the
east side especially is very fertile. Here the village of the
Spokeins is located, and one of their number has commenc>
ed the cultivation of a small field or garden, which he has
planted with potatoes, peas, and beans, and some other ve-
getables ; all of which were flourishing, and were the first
I had seen springing up under Indian industry west of the
mountains. Our ferryman conducted us through the valley
to the foot of the mountain on the east, and pointed out the
trail we should pursue. As we wound our way up the moun-
tain, I looked down into the vale we had crossed, and which
stretches along the winding river, and I drew in my imagin.
ation a picture of what this valley will be, when this people
are brought under the influence of Christianity and civili.
zation. This section of country presents less appearance
of volcanic operation ; and in several places I found gran*
ite in its natural form and position, and which resembles
that found in the eastern states. When we had arrived at
the height of this mountain, we came to a sandy plain, sev*
eral miles wide, covered with yellow pine forming an open
woods. Over parts of this plain were scattered volcanic
eruptions of singular formation. Hundreds of regular
cones of various magnitudes, from those of only a few feet
in diameter and height, to those of a hundred in diameter
and sixty feet high. They all had the same appearance,
only differing in magnitude ; and were composed of broken
granite, in angular pieces, from those that were very small,
to six or eight inches in diameter, and on the outside
were nearly black, as if colored with rising smoke. They
had more the appearence of being broken by manual labor,
and piled up for future use in constructing roads or wharves,
than of the result of internal fires, and yet no other cause
but the latter can be assigned. The sandy plain around
them was undisturbed, and large pine trees growing about

ANXIETY OP THE SPOKEINS.

289

them as in otlier places. At the south of these were large
rocks of granite, and in one place a basaltic dyke extend-
ing a hundred rods or more.

After passing this plain, we descended and came again to
the Spokein river, which makes a bend around to the north-
cast. In this place the valley is less extensive, and the
mountains more precipitous. We again ascended the moiin.
tain, upon which granite and mica slate prevail, without
any volcanic appearances. From this we descended into
a rich valley, which was covered with a luxuriant growth
of grass, though but just springing up. This valley has
the appearance of having been a lake filled up with moun-
tain deposits. In the centre is a small lake, from which
proceeds a small rivulet passing out at the south-west ;
and leaving this place, we wound around a mountain
in a northerly direction, down a valley less fertile but more
extensive, and at four in the afternoon we came to a stream
of water, coming from the mountains at the east, where our
guides said we must stop for the night.

Near evening, many Spokein and some Nez Perce Indi-
ans came riding into the place of our encampment, and
turned out their horses with ours in the half wood and prai-
rie. The Spokeins who had seen me on my way, and had
learned who I was, sent information out to the various
hunting parties, that a minister was passing through their
country, and as it was the first time any one was ever
among them, they wished to see him and hear what he had
to say to them. They brought with them a good interpre-
ter, a young man of their nation, who had been to school at
the Red river settlement on the east side of the mountain,
and who had a very good knowledge of English. We had
public worship that evening in the Spokein and Nez Perce
languages. One of the Nez Perces, a chief, understood the
Spokein language, and collected his people a little back of

the Spokeins, and translated the discourse us it was deliv-
25

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290

MILL RIVER VALLEY.

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ered, into the language of his people, without any interrup
tion to the service. This was a plan of their own devising.
All the circumstances combined were to me very interest,
ing. If I had not been delayed the three several times,
they would not have had time to collect their people and
overtake me. Some of them had been engaged in the
business of assembling and following a day and a half.
Man} of them were unwilling to return, and expressed their
determination to go with me to Colville. What influenced
these benighted Indians to manifest so much solicitude in
my instruction derived from the word of God ? It must
be the influences of the Divine Spirit. And shall these
influences pass unregarded and unimproved ?

The morning of the 28th was cloudy and some rain fell,
but this did not prevent our taking an early departure ; for
it was necessary to be on our way, as my men had the even-
ng before consumed their entire stock of provisions, and
et what would take place, we could obtain no more until
we should reach Colville. We could not obtain any game ;
for being advised by the superintendent of Walla Walk not to
encumber ourselves with rifles, we had unwisely left them
behind. After traveling a few miles in an easterly direc*
tion we came to a very fertile valley extending north and
south at least fifty miles, and of various extent in width,
from a half mile to two. It is well adapted to cultivation.
The valley is an open prairie well supplied with grass, and
even in this high latitude of 48° cattle could do well through
the whole year, without the labor of cutting hay. The hills
on each side are covered with woods. As we proceeded
down this valley, we came to villages of Indians who un.
derstood the Spokein language, but belonged to another tribe,
probably to the Cceur d'AlSne. Near their principal viK
lage we came to Mill river, which was in full fresh. They
had no canoes, and we found difficulty in getting my bag-
gage acroM. But the Nez Perc6 chief took part of it upoD

FOBT COLVILLE.

291

his shoulders, mounted his horse, and swam over, and cross.
ed and recrossed until all was upon the other side. I then
crossed upon a pole, which was not the most desirable meth-
od, but still it was preferable to a cold bathing on horseback.
After pursuing our course a few miles farther, I divided my
remaining stock of eatables with my destitute French and
Indian attendants, leaving the anticipation of our next meal
to the time when, after a long day's industrious travel, we
should find ourselves safely at Colville.

Towards the lower part of the valley, through which we
were passing, the land is remarkably fertile. A missiona-
ry located here would have easy access to the Spokein,
Sapwell, Sintou-too-oulish, Kettle falls, Lake?, CoBur d'Alene,
and Pondera Indians. I know not of so important a field
within two hundred miles, presenting the natural advanta-
ges of mild climate, good soil, and forests, all combined.

We arrived at Fort Colville late in the afternoon after a
weary journey of sixty miles. The situation of this fort is
on an elevated spot, about fifty rods from the river, sur-
rounded by an alluvial plain of rich soil, and opening in
every direction an extended prospect of mountain scenery ;
and a half mile below are Kettle falls, above which, the riv-
er spreads out widely, and moves slowly, until just above
the precipice, it contracts into a narrow channel, and dis-
appears from the view of the spectator, who beholds it at
the fort, winding its way among rocks below. This estab-
lishment is built for defence and is well stoccaded, but so
friendly have the natives always been, that no wars have
ever occurred among them. It is occupied by some half
dozen men with Indian fimilies, and is well supplied with
the useful animals and fowls common to farming establish-
ments. The winter and summer grains, together with gar-
den vegetables, are cultivated with success and in profusion.
This place does not suffer with summer drouth, as many
other parts of this country do, and rains are of frequent-.

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292

WORSHIP AT THE FORT.

occurrence ; the seasons here not being marked, as on the
lower parts of the Columbia, by wet and dry.

I was much disappointed in not finding Mr. McDonald,
the superintendent of the fort, at home. He had left a few
days before with a brigade for Fort Vancouver ; but the
kindest attention was paid me by those who had the charge
of the fort. I found here an old man, who, thirty years be-
fore, accompanied Lewis and Clarke across the continent,
and had for several years past taken up his residence
here. He is in the employ of the fur company, and acts
as interpreter to the neighboring Indians.

On sabbath 29th, the people of the fort who understood
English, assembled, and we worshipped the God of our lives,
who had protected us hitherto, and from different nations
had collected us in a little group in this end of the work).
The Indians too came about me and expressed great anxie-
ty to be taught the revealed will of God. They endeavor-
ed to make me understand what their former traditionary
belief and practices had been, and to let me know, that
what they had learned from me was reasonable and satis-
factory to them, and that they wished to know all that re-
lated to so important and momentous a subject. But our
medium of communication was inadequate to a full disclo-
sure of that most interesting truth, that God so loved the
world, that he gave his only Son to die for its redemption.

Wherever I have met with the natives of this distant re-
gion they have invariably, with earnestness and with im.
portunity, asked the gift of the gospel from the hands of
christians. But how little of the faith, and love, and liber-
ality of the church is invested in the most profitable of all
enterprises, the conversion of the world. Should some one
propose the construction of a rail road from the Atlantic
to the Pacific, and demonstrate the practicability of the
measure, and show that nature has interposed no effectual

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1, as on the

lo understood
i of our lives,
;rent nations
)f the workl.
I great anxie-
ley endeavor-
traditionary
le know, that
3le and satis-
V all that re-
ct. But our
a full disclc
so loved the
redemption,
lis distant re-
and with im-
the hands of
ve, and liber-
fitablc of all
uld some one
the Atlantic
bility of the
ll no effectual

JOUBNEY DOWN THB COLOMBIA.

293

barrier, and that it would concentrate not only the whole
internal, but also the China trade, and the stock would pro-
duce annually a rich dividend, how soon woijld christians
engage in it.

Monday, the 30th of May, we commenced our journey
down the Columbia. The brigade having taken all the boats
from this place on their late passage to Fort Vancouver, we
were compelled to take horses for Okanagan. I changed
my guides for two others ; one a Spokein, and the other a
Paloose ; retaining my two voyageurs. As we left Fort
Colville we had a fine view of Kettle falls. The Columbia
was in its freshet, and as it rolled down in a broken catract
the distance of one hundred feet, it was a sublime spectacle.
The whole scenery as we proceeded down the river was
marked by variety, wildness, and romantic grandeur, as if
the hand of nature, in decking these remote regions, had
consulted for her own amusement some of her most playful
and tasteful fancies. The mountains around are construct-
ed on a scale of magnificence, presenting almost all the vari-
eties of elevation, precipice, and forest. This is the country
which by more than one of my predecessors in travel, has
been celebrated as the abode of wolves, bears, and rattle-
snakes, to an extent that renders it almost impenetrable,
by ordinary courage ; but we found no indications of the
presence of these animals before this evening, when the
I distant barking of prairie wolves, for once, interrupted the
I universal silence by which we were surrounded.

After a few hours ride, on the morning of the 81st, 'we
recrossed the Spokein river just above its entrance into the
Columbia. This large valley is capable of supporting a
much more numerous, population than now obtain a subsist-
ence by hunting and fishing. The Indians residing here
afforded us very cheerfully all the assistance we needed in
ferrying the river. In the neighborhood of this place I

discovered a mountain of rich and very beautiful marble,
24*

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situated on the south side of the Columbia river ; some sec.
tions are pure white, or saccharine, while others are beau-
tifully clouded with blue and brown. It effervesced freely
with sulphuric acid. This will in time become very
valuable ; for being upon navigable waters, it can be trans,
ported into various countries. Several miles below this
marble location I was interested with the juxtaposition of
granite and basalt. It was on an elevated piece of land one
hundred and fifty feet above the river. Near the river there
were large quantities of solid granite in its natural position,
not having the appearance of its ever having undergone an
igneous influence, and near by to the left was a stupend.
ous dyke of basalt rising two hundred feet, presenting the
appearance of having been thrown up by several succes-
sive volcanic eruptions ; the earth on the back side gradu-
ally rising to a mountain.

At this place we left the river, to save traversing a great
bend, and took a westerly course, expecting to arrive ac it
again before night. We pursued our way over an elevated
prairie, destitute of wood and water. It was evident night
would overtake us before we could reach the river, unless
we should urge forward with all the speed that humanity
for our horses would permit. Before five o'clock we came
near to the great gulf walled up with basalt, which as we
supposed, embosomed the deep-flowing Columbia. Our next
object was to find a place where we could descend to its
shores. After ranging along two or three miles, we found
an entrance by a ravine ; but to our disappointment it was
the Grand Coule, which was undoubtedly the former chan.
nel of the river. With considerable difficulty we descend,
ed into it, and found it well covered with grass, and by
searching, obtained a small supply of water. This quon.
dam channel of the river is nearly a mile wide, with a lev.
el bottom, and studded with islands. Its sides are lined, as
the river itself is in many places, with basaltic rocks

v., , >

tOST ON THE PRAIRIE.

295

of two and three hundred feet perpendicular. This Coule
separates to the leii from the present channel of the Colum-
bia, about one hundred miles below Colville, and is about one
hundred in length, when it again unites with the river.
The basaltic appearances are exhibited here as i \ other pla-
ces, furnishing evidences of eruptions at different periods of
time. A peculiarity in this instance was a stratum of yel-
low earth, eight or ten feet in thickness between the strata
of basalt. Those who have traveled through the whole
length of the Coule represent it as having the same gener-
al features throughout, while the whole distance of the riv-
er, around to the place where it again unites, as I know
from personal observation, has not the peculiarity of a deep
channel, cut through the rocks. We left the Grand Coule
early on the morning of the 1st of June, and with dif-
ficulty ascended the western bank. Before noon my guides
lost their way to Okanagan, and wandered far out upon the
wide prairie where there was no water. Losing my confi-
dence in their knowledge of the country, except on some
frequented track, I directed my course for the river ; and
perceiving a snow-topped mountain in the distance, I con-
cluded the river must lie between it and ourselves, and ac
cordingly made it my land-mark. Pursuing this direction
a few hours with rapid speed we came to a slope, which
gradually narrowed into a ravine, and introduced us at length
to a spring of water. Our thirsty horses rushed into it,
and it was with difficulty we could control their excess in
drinking. We followed this ravine, the water of which
continually gained accessions until it became a large stream,
with a rich valley of alluvial bottom, and united its waters
with the Columbia, a few miles above Fort Okanagan, the
place of our destination.

Fort Okanagan is situated on the north side of the Co-
lumbia, above the confluence of the Okanagan river, from
which, and from the Indians residing in its vicinity, the

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296

FORT OKAHTAGAir.

fort takes its name. It was first built by Mr. David Stu-
art, a partner of the American Fur Company, in 1811.
There is an open space of considerable extent around, but
the soil is of an inferior quality, hard and gravelly, but pro.
ducing grass to supply the cattle and horses belonging to
the station. A few fertile spots of alluvial soil are found
in the vicinity. The Columbia does not appear to have
continued so long in its present channel, after leaving the
Grand Coule, as to form those extensive alluvial bottoms
which exist in many other parts of its course. After leav.
ing the Spokein woods there is very little forest to supply
timber for fuel, fencing, or building. They are dependent
on floodwood which descends the river for their ordinary fu.
el, and the freshets generally furnish a large supply. Not
far distant, at the north there are snow-topped mountains, but
the country here is not remarkably mountainous. At this
place I had an opportunity to see some of the Okanagan
tribe. Their personal appearance is less noble than the
Spokeins, but they are not less peacable, friendly, and hon-
est in their dispositions. This is evident from the fact that
the charge of the fort in the absence of Capt. Ogden, the su.
perintendent, was committed temporarily to a Frenchman,
and several of the Indians. This tribe with the Shooshaps
number about two thousand persons. They are much em-
ployed in the salmon fishery, and large quantities are pre-
pared by drying for their winter's use. Their country does
not abound in game, and hunting occupies but little of their
time. The climate here, as in other parts of the Oregon
Territory, is very mild and salubrious.

Wishing to pursue my way down the river, I hired two
Indians to assist my two Frenchmen in navigating a bateau
which we obtained at this place ; and committed our horses
to my Indian guides to take them across the country to
Walla Walla. My confidence in the honesty of these men
was without any suspicion, and I could trust them with

PETRIFIED TREE.

297

our six horses, saddles, and bridles, to go on any enterprise
within their capacity to accomplish. They have so much
self-respect, that they would not on any account commit a
crime, which would expel them from their people, induce
them to seek concealment, or abridge their liberties as free-
men.

We embarked in our boat June 2d, to perform a voyage
of four hundred miles, with the river in full freshet ; and its
strong current increased by high water, secured to us a ve-
locity beyond the ordinary. We passed several rapids, and
(lashed over tho breaking surges, where tlie least misman-
agement would have been inevitable submersion, without
<iny prospect of escape. But my voyageurs showed by
their adroitness at the oar, that they were upon their favor-
ite element, and their gayety and songs began to revive, on
teing relieved from the rough, and to them, unpleasant jour-
ney on horseback, over hills and down ravines, and through
forests. The elasticity of their native character was al-
most immediately apparent, and we glided on with celerity,
making a voyage of one hundred miles before it was neces-
sary to seek our safety for the night on shore. The coun-
try through which we passed to-day was rather mountain-
ous. I saw many locations of granite in its natural state,
but as we proceeded, volcanic operations began to appear,
and the granite exhibited the effects of intense heat, until
it wholly disappeared, and breccia, amygdaloid, basalt, and
lava took its place. In the afternoon we passed a section
of rock, perpendicular two hundred and fifty feet ; half way
to the top of which, a petrified tree of considerable magni-
tude is suspended. It sppears to be retained in its place by
having its roots inserted in the crevices of the rocks, be-
tween the layers of different eruptions. How it procured
its elevated situation is quite a mystery. It could not have
vegetated there, unless at the time of its growth, it was sup-
ported by a surface upon which to rise ; and taking the pre.

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298

LONG RAPIDS.

sent condition of the rocks, it could not be deposited there
by any floods of the river, and certainly it could not in such
case, intertwine its roots in the crevices of the rocks. Gen-
tlemen of the Hudson Bay Company, and others who nav.
igate this river, have amused themselves by shooting off
pieces with their rifles, and they assured me it was whol.
ly a petrifaction. Our encampment this evening was a few
miles above the Long Rapids, which extend nine miles.

On the 3d, as we approached the Long Rapids about fifty
miles above Walla Walla they presented the appearance of
waves rolling under a strong breeze of wind, and their dis.
tant murmur broke upon the stillness of the morning. To
pass them without fear, is an undertaking which requires
courage and self-possession ; but knowing that these inland
navigators are experienced in all the dangers of boating ex.
cursions, I had but little drawback upon the pleasure I an.
ticipated in a swift descent over them. With much care
and exertion of my men we safely outrode them, a distance
of nine miles, in forty minutes. It is this variety of falls,
cascades, and rapids, together with the ever-varying scene.
ry of nature's wildest and grandest forms, that keeps the
mind from wearying, and awakens almost perpetually some
new emotions and energies, while performing a voyage of
several hundred miles in open bateaux or light canoes. Not
unfrequently in the stillness and solitude of the river, when
it assumed its more placid features, such a sense of security
is enjoyed, that a resort to books, to assist in a profitable
disposition of time, is pleasant. . .. > -

The distance of about one hundred miles we passed to-
day, the country is level and destitute of wood. I observ-
ed a bank of clay in layers of diversified structure, resem-
bling the basaltic strata which I^have often noticed. The
dififerent sections were of various colors ; some dusky red,
some yellow, and blue, and others white, making an upright
elevation of one hundred feet or more, Salmon are ascend.

sposited there
Id not in such
I rocks. Gen-
ers who nav-
shooting off

ARRIVAL AT WALLA WALLA.

299

mg the river in j^reat numbers, and groups of Indians are
scattered along pursuing the employment of catching them.
Wherever we passed them, they came off in their canoes,
bringing salmon to sell, some of which were roasted in the
best manner, and served up on broad pieces of bark, which
answered a good purpose in the absence of plates ; and of-
ten large leaves of plants were spread neatly upon the bark.
My voyageurs found sufficient employment in the gratifica-
tion of their appetites, to interrupt for a while their anec-
dote and song. We arrived at Walla Walla at evening,
just in season to find a shelter from one of the most violent
thunder storms, accompanied with wind, which I have wit-
nessed in this country. Such storms are of rare occurrence
west of the mountains.

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300

SNAKE INDIANS.

.:^vM

CHAPTER XXIll.

A summary of the Indians of the Upper country— names of the tribe? ,
their locations and numbers— leave Walla Walla for Fort Vancouver
— swift passage down the river- run the Falls— Cascades — dangerous
eddy — arrive at Vancouver — steam -boat excursion.

111'

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■ Having traveled over the most important parts of the up.
per country, and collected the facts of its physical condi-
tion, together with the location, character, and condition of
the most numerous tribes of Indians; before leaving
this section of the territory west of the Rocky Mountains,
it may be proper to give a connected summary of these par.
ticulars. On the south part of the Oregon Territory adjoin.
ing Upper California are located the Shoshones or Snake
Indians. I was not able to gain knowledge of their defi.
nite numbers, but the general estimate is that they are more
than ten thousand. Their country is decidedly the most
barren, west of the mountains ; most parts being covered
with scoria and other volcanic productions. These Indians
are poor, and as indicative of their condition and their re-
sources, they are called Snake Indians, and Rootdiggers.
Some of them go to the mountains and hunt buffalo, and
they very generally resort to the river in the season of fish.
ing. They have a tolerable supply of horses. When they
go to Rendezvous they make a great display, advancing on
horseback, dressed in their most fantastical manner, exhib-
iting all their ornaments of feathers, beads, wolf-tails, teeth
and claws of animals, arranged according o their notions
of good taste. Their warriors are armed, nideously paint-
ed, and those who have been wounded in battle are very
fond of showing their scars. After coursing around and

INDIANS DIFF£B£NT TRIBES.

301

through the camp of Rendezvous for some time, they dis-
mount and go through the ceremony of sliaking hands. I
!uid also an opportunity of seeing many of the Utaws at
Rendezvous. Their country is situated to the east and
south-east of the Shoshones, on the head waters of the Colora-
do river, which empties into the gulf of California. They
number nearly four thousand persons. They appear to be
a mild and peaceable people, honest, kind, and hospitable to
strangers ; and mild and affectionate among themselves.
Tliey live by hunting, fishing, and gathering roots and ber-
ries. Their dress is plain, and their manners are unassum.
ing. Their country is warm, of fine climate, and good
soil. 1- , / . ...

Proceeding north, we come to the country of the Nez Per-
ces, which has many fertile parts adapted to tillage, and all
of which is a fine grazing country. They number about two
thousand five hundred ; but they have been so often rnen-
lioned, that I need not add to what has been said of then).

The Cayuses are situated to the west of the Nez Perc6s,
and very much resemble them in person, dress, habits, and
morals. They are equally peaceable, honest, and hospitable to
I strangers. They number more than two thousand persons.
Their wealth consists in horses, which are unusually
fine, and numerous ; it being no uncommon thing for one
man to own several hundred. Their country, especially
I about the Grand Round, is uncommonly fertile, producing
spontaneously cammas in great abundance, upon which,
with fish and some game, they principally subsist. Their
anxiety to be instructed in the way of salvation is as great
as that of the Nez Perces and Flatheads.

The Walla Walla Indians inhabit the country about tbfd
river of the same name, and range some distance below,
along the Columbia river. The number of persons in this
I tribe is about five hundred. In their character, employ-

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302

INDIANS DIFFERENT TRIBES.

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ments, and moral habits, they do not materially differ from
the last named tribes.

The Paloose tribe are properly a part of the Nez Perce s,
and in all respects are like them. Their residence is along
the Nez Perce river and up the Pavilion. They number
about three hundred. The four last named tribes speak the
same language with a little dialectical difference.

North.east of the Palooses are the Spokein nation. They
number about eight hundred persons, besides some small
tribes adjoining them who might be counted a part of their
nation. I have so fully described them that it is unneces.
sary to enlarge upon their character. Their country is
very much diversified with mountains and valleys, prairie
and woods ; and a large part is of primitive formation ;
some parts are very fertile. They denominate themselves I
the children of the sun, which in their language is Spokein. |
Their main dependence for subsistence is upon fishing and I
hunting, together with gathering roots and berries. 1 have !
stated that a commencement is made in agriculture, which {
it may be hoped will be generally adopted, so that their pre.
sent precarious mode of living may give place to that which]
will be substantial. They have many horses, but not so nu.
merous as their neighbors farther south.

East of these are the Coeur d'Alene Indians, whose num.j
bers are about seven hundred, and who are characterized!
by civility, honesty, and kindness. Their country is morel
open than the Spokeins', and equally, if not better adaptedl
to agriculture.

The country of the Flatheads is still farther east and
south-east, and extends to the Rocky Mountains. The\1
are a very interesting tribe ; dignified in their persons, noJ
ble, frank, and generous in their dispositions ; and have alJ
ways shown a firm attachment to white men. They numJ
ber about eight hundred persons, and live a wandering lifeJ
For subsistence they follow the buffalo upon the waters oi

INDIANS*— A chief's ANECDOTE.

303

illy differ from

Clarke and Salmon rivers, and often pass over to the head
waters of the Missouri. They have become a small tribe
by constant wars with the Blackfeet Indians; not that they
themselves are of a ferocious or hostile disposition. Being
averse to war, they wish to settle upon their laniis, and are
only waiting to be instructed in the arts of civilization and
in Christianity.

Their country is mountainous, but intersected with pleas-
ant, fertile valleys, large portions of which are prairie.
The mountains are cold, but in the valleys the climate is
mild.

An anecdote was related by a chief of this nation, which
illustrates their native character, and the propensity of In-
dians to imitation. He said the first white men he saw,
was when he was young. It was summer. He said these
are a new people, they look cold, their faces are white and
red ; go make a large fire, and I will ask them to come and
warm them. In a short time his people had made a fire,
and brought new buffalo robes. The white men came into
his lodge, and he wrapped them in the robes and seated them
by the fire that they might be warm. The robes slipped
off; he replaced them. Soon the white men made signs to
smoke their pipe. The chief thought they asked for food,
and brought them meat. The white men gave him the pipe
and they smoked, and after this they loved smoke, and they
loved the white men, they said they were good.

The Ponderas are so nearly like the Flatheads in person,
manners, and character, that a particular description of
them may be passed over. They number about two thou-
sand two hundred, and live on the north of Clarke's river
and on a lake which takes its name from the tribe. Their
country has many fertile parts, and would soon be put un-
der cultivation, if they could obtain instructors to teach
them agriculture and to impart to them a knowledge of those
things which are necessary to constitute a happy and pros.

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304

INDIANS DIFFERENT TRIBES.

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perous community. Their language is the same as tlie
Spokeins' and Flatheads'. The Cootanies inhabit a section
of country to the north of the Ponderas along M'Gillivrav's
river, and they are represented as an uncommonly interest.
ing people. They speak a language distinct from all the
tribes about them, open and sonorous, and free from gnttu.
rals, which are common in the language of the surroundinji
tribes. They are neat in their persons and lodges, candid
and honest, and kind to each other. I could not ascertain
their numbers, but probably they are not over a thousand.

There are several other tribes of Indians, whose countries
are situated upon the waters of the north-east branch of the
Columbia river, resembling each other so nearly in tlieir
customs, morals, manners, and mode of living, that it is un-
necessary to go into a particular description of each sepa-
rately. I will mention the names, locations, and number
of some of the principaJi' North of the Cootanies are the
Carriers, whose number is estimated to be four thousand ;
and south of these are the Lake Indians, so named from
their place of residence, which is about the Arrow
lakes. They are about five hundred in number. At the
south, and about Colville, are the Kettle Falls Indians.
Their number is five hundred and sixty. West of these
are the Sinpauelish, one thousand in number ; and below
these are the Shooshaps, having a population of five hund-
red and seventy-five. At the west and north-west, next in
order, are the Okanagans, numbering one thousand fifty.
To the north and west are several tribes, about whom I ob-
tained no definite information. Between Okanagan and
the Long Rapids are detachments of Indians, who appear
poor, and wanting in that manly and active spirit, which
characterizes the tribes above named. South of the Long
Rapids, and to the confluence of Lewis' river with the Colum-
bia, are the Yookoomans, a more active people, numbering
about seven hundred. The whole number of the above named
Indians is thirty-two thousand five hund red and eighty. five.

m:i

DESCEND THE RIVER — STRONG WIND.

305

This is probably a low estimate, and in the number, there
are not included the Fall and La Dalle Indians, and many
other numerous tribes residing at the north and south of
the Falls of the Columbia, whose numbers I could not with
certainty ascertain. We might more than double this num-
ber, and probably still come below the population of the up-
per country.

The Indians to whom our horses were entrusted, came in
safely as I expected. After resting on the sabbath, we re-
newed, on Monday the 6 th, our voyage down the river, hav-
ing Fort Vancouver for our next destination. We exchang-
ed the bateau for a large canoe, retaining the men who at-
tended me from Okanagan. Assisted by the high water,
we made rapid progress until three in the afternoon, when a
strong head wind compelled us to take to the land for the
remainder of the day, having gone seventy-five miles. The
Indians as usual came to us in their friendly manner,
offering us salmon, and asking tobacco, which they esteem
more highly than either gold or silver. They have been
accustomed to traffic in this commodity, until they expect
it of every passing traveler.

The morning of the 7th was more calm, and we got un.
der way at an early hour, but with the rising day the wind
again increased to such a degree, that we were obliged to
suspend our voyage. After a strenuous endeavor to effect
a landing on the north, we were at length driven across to
the opposite shore ; and here for the first time in all my
travels, I found it impossible to pitch my tent ; such being
the strength of the wind, that it would have been carried
away. The canoe was drawn upon the shore, and wrap-
ping myself in my blankets and buffalo robes, I laid me
down in safety by the side of the canoe. We had hero, as
at all our other landing places, the usual friendly visit from
the neighboring Indians.

The following day we were able to resume our joumcv,

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306

FALLS OF THE COLUMBIA LA DALLESf^

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and passed the rapids, which in the tempest of yesterday^
looked so forbidding; A little caution on the part of my
experienced Frenchmen in regard to the numerous islands
and eddies, enabled us to effect the passage in perfect safety.
In a short time we approached the falls of the Columbia,
which, in low water are twenty feet perpendicular, followed
by raging rapids below, but now in the high freshet season
they are passable by the descending boats when not heavy
laden. Bousheau, my steersman, proposed to run them,
and while I was revolving in my mind the chances of safe.
ty, and thought of going on shore, before I anticipated, we
were between breakers on the right, and on the left, and
onward we must go let consequences be what they would.
We kept near the middle of the river, which was free from
breakers, though not from high surges. Soon, with amaz<
ing velocity, we were over the cataract of the mighty wa-
ters, and made our way into a bay at the head of the first
portage of the La Dalles. The accumulation of water
from those stupendous mountains above, was so great
that the falls were almost lost in the depth.

Such were the eddies and surging of the water among the
rocky islands in the narrow, broken channel of the La
Dalles, that we had to make three portages. Our canoe
was so large that twenty Indians were not too many to car-
ry it safely. Their mode of carrying, is to invert it up.
on their heads and shoulders, and then it is with difficulty
and danger that they pass the steep and rocky ravines.
When we came to the last portage, the Indians were not
willing to take hold again unless we would pay them in
powder and balls ; and although their demands were rea.
sonable, yet our stores were not adequate to meet them, and
they would not perform ths labor without the required arti-
cle. I engaged Sopelay, and another influential chief, to
induce their men to perform the labor of making this last
portage, and promised that I would send them the de-

Mt^'

BAXGEROUS WHIRLPOOL*

307

mand from Fort Vancouver, and for their security f would
give them a talking paper. They stated to their people my
proposal, and were about to succeed, when TilkT, the first
chief, who had become familiar with an American trader,
laughed at their credulity. Sopelay, however, stated to the
people, that he had seen me at the fort, and that he heard
me teach the Indians good things, and did not believe f
would deceive them. He prevailed, and the men took hold
of the work ; and in four hours from passing the falls
we were beyond the raging waters, where we made our
morning repast upon very fine salmon.

Our passage the remainder of the day was pleasant ; we
passed Cape Horn without difficulty, and landed for the
night twelve miles above the Cascades. In this high
state of the water, very few of the trees of the submerged
forest were to be seen.

On the morning of the 9th, we passed the Cascades by
hiring Indians to cordelle the canoe down them, by making
one short portage, the distance of two miles, to the great ba-
sin, or rather the great whirlpool below. This labor is at-
tended with some danger, and cases, though not numerous,
have occurred of the loss of lives and property. As I walk*
ed along the shores and over precipices, I saw the wrecks
of several canoes and bateau strewed upon the rocks. We
embarked upon the great basin, at the lower part of wliich
we passed into a rapid, where the main current took a dia-
gonal course from the north toward the south shore. On
both sides of this current there were heavy breakers, and as
the only course of safety, we took the middle. We had not
proceeded far before a large whirlpool, with a deep, devouring
vortex formed almost directly before us, and as we were go-
ing forward very swiftly, it seemed impossible to avoid its
circling current. I said to my steersman, bear a little to
the right. "O don't speak here," was his reply. As we ap.
proached the vortex, it filled after the manner of smaller ed-

•. ''Mr-

r*':

■:r

308

A FIELD FOR

dies, and we soon felt the influence of its waters rolling out
from the centre, and all our strength was i-equired to resist
them, lest we should be thrown upon the breakers. We
passed with the rapidity of the wind, and in a short time
were upon the smooth surface of the tide waters below.
The sensations excited in descending these Cascades arc of
that peculiar character, which arc best understood by expe-
rience. The sensation of fear is no sooner awakened than
it subsides, before the power and magnificence of the roll.
ing surges, the circling vortices, and the roaring breakers.
Let those whose dormant energies, either of body or mind,
need arousing, try the navigation of the Columbia, and their
powers will be invigorated for almost any future enterprise.
Such is the fascinating power, I had almost said magic of
these scenes, that those who are accustomed to the employ,
ment, though far away from home and kindred, become at.
tached to it, and are reluctant to abandon it for any other.
Each time the scenery of these interesting Cascades is be-
held, new wonders unfold themselves. Niagara itself, if
we except its unbroken fall of one hundred and fifty feet,
can not bear a comparison with the superior style of nature's
works here. Nor are these things created merely to draw
out momentary admiration. Science in very many of its
departments, may find subjects for investigation.

While the ornithologist listens to the songsters of the
forest, and in these enchanting solitudes follows them with
his eye as they dart from bough to bough ; his attention is
arrested by the noble and majestic, white headed eagle, as
he takes his favorite perch upon the loftiest point of some
leafless tree, or as he darts from thence upon bis prey : o
his attention may be arrested by the daring flsh-hawk in
his rapid descent upon the finny tribe. An amusing occur-
rence took place in my view. A fish hawk seized upon a
fish of such magnitude, that the contest for a long time wa^
doubtful, as the splashing water indicated, which should c\-

W^r-'^

UK I

NATURALISTS.

309

change its native element. Tlie resistance was so great,
tliat a disengagement was deemed the hcst policy.

Here also the hotanist, while he forhcars to ascend the
lofty mountains, which for him present an aspect of too
much dreariness, may retire into the narrow receding val-
leys, or wind his way over sunny hills in search of new ge-
nera of plants, or at least new species, with which to im.
mortuli'zc his name, and to add to the stores of his favorite
science.

The geologist, while he admires the stupendous monu-
nients of volcanic operations heroro him, may also fmd
much to interest him in examining more minute formations.
Along the rugged shores are scattered specimens of calcedo-
ny, jasper, agate and cornelian. He may examine the cel-
lules of the immense masses of amygdaloid ; the columnar
basalt, and the mountains shouting up their denticulated
forms and needle points.

His attention will he drawn to the examination of the
lava, breccia, and trachyte ; and of dendrolites he will be
interested in finding many. When he looks at the deep
channel through which the Columbia river finds its onward
way to the Pacific ocean, if he doubts the agency of God
in forming the courses of the rivers, he may indulge his
imagination in computing how long it has taken this river
to wear down the immensely hard basalt a thousand feet ;
and having ascertained how long it takes to wear any giv-
en depth, he may then make his mathematical conclusions,
how much longer the process has been going on than the
Mosaic account of the age of the world. Or to shorten the
process, he may prove that some erratic comet has drawn
its fiery tail along this course and melted down the rocks.
But if he is a christian philosopher, while he admits second
causes, he may look up to the great first Cause, and admire
and adore ; and not regarding baseless theories, he may ex.

. (' *k' '-III- 1 -

';"'i ■■■(■'. •,'■•,
• ■" !i,' ft ' 'i'

''...' .I,'-

' ''Li' «■'■' ■

310 ARRIVAL AT THE FORT — STEAM-BOAT EXCURSION.

^■M

i'/}

fK."

claim, " How wonderful are thy works, in wisdom hast thou
made them all." ,

As we passed out of the mountain country about the
Cascades, we found the wide valley below so inundated, as
to present the appearance of an inland sea. I arrived safe-
ly at the fort, found my friends well, and exchanged kind
congratulations. <"

Sabbath, June 12th, I preached to the people of the fort ;
and in the evening a third service, in which as heretofore,
an opportunity was given to those present, to propose ques-
tion on any subject of religion about which they wished in-
formation. I was particularly gratified to find, that during
my absence, public worship had been maintained, and that
an eflTort had been made to bring the French Canadians to
attend upon religious instruction. They are assembled
twice on the sabbath, and a portion of scripture and
a sermon in French, are read to them by Dr. McLaughlin.

I was favored with an opportunity to send to Sopelay the
promised powder and balls by Capt. Black, a gentleman of
the Company, who was to leave Vancouver for his station
north of Fort Okanagan, in a few days.

On the 14th, we took a water excursion in the steam-boat
Beaver, Capt. Home, down the Columbia to the confluence
of the western branch of the Multnomah ; up this river into
the Willamette, and then into the middle branch of the
Multnomah, and through it, into the Columbia, and back to
the fort. All the low lands were overflowed with the an.
nual fi-eshet, and presented the appearance of an immense
bay, extending far into the country. The day was pleasant
and our company cheerful. The novelty of a steam-boat
on the Columbia, awakened a train of prospective reflec
tions upon the probable changes, which would take pla^fi in
these remote regions, in a very few years. It was wiiolly
an unthought of thing when I first contemplated this enter-

NAVIGABLE WATERS.

311

3XCURSI0N.

idom hast thou

atry about the

I inundated, as

I arrived safe-

xchanged kind

iple of the fort ;
I as heretofore,
:o propose ques.
they wished in.
ind, that during
:ained, and that
1 Canadians to
are assembled
f scripture and
r. McLaughUn.
d to Sopelay the
a gentleman of
for his station

n the steam-boat
) the confluence
p this river into
branch of the
)ia, and back to
with the an.
of an immense
ay was pleasant
3f a steam-boat
)spective reflec
Id take pla^p in
It was wiiolly
lated this enter-

prise, that I should find here this forerunner of commerce and
business. The animation which prevailed was often sus-
pended, while we conversed of coming days, when with civ-
ilized men, all the rapid improvements in the arts of life,
should be introduced over this new world, and when cities
and villages shall spring up on the west, as they are spring-
ing up on the east of the great mountains, and a new em-
pire be added, to the kingdoms of the earth.

The Columbia is the only river of magnitude in the Or-
egon Territory, and this is navigable for ships only one
hundred and thirty miles to the Cascades ; and it is the on-
ly one which affords a harbor for large ships on the coast,
from California to the 49° of north latitude. For
bateau and various other light craft, the Columbia and its
branches are navigable a thousand miles. The internal
navigation might be much improved by canals around the
rapids and falls, which are so numerous that ascending
the rivers is now diflicult. Still a considerable interior
trade is carried on by means of these waters, and the inge-
nuity of men on the west, when it shall be more extensive-
ly populated, will contrive facilities, as on the east, for
greatly improving the intercourse of remote and different
portions of this territory.

iiii ■♦•!■•";#

Mil.™ .; ,' I. iJlUJ

■ Wc". ■
',m ■■■-■'-'

.'I' ""I .
.,mU ,:

I.iiSii U;;"(3'

Uv *•■ '' '

: lifp If-; ■ ■■

■ 'Hi ";■' ' ■ ' !*

■('..ii;

Ml,;

* * f ' < » • 1-

• 4-' .

312

GENERAL REMARKS.

*- » V

CHAPTER XXIV.

General remarks — Meteorological table — Vocabulary of the Nez PercC)
Chenook, Klicatat, and Caliapooa languages— Ornithology.

^J:

11^

3*. i;

Having explored the most important parts of this terri.
tory, and gained all the information within my reach, as to
the several objects pi*oposed in my instructions from the
Board of Foreign Missions ; and especially having ascer-
tained to my entire satisfaction the two most prominent
facts, namely, the entire practicability of penetrating with
safety to any and every portion of the vast interior, and the
disposition of the natives in regard to my mission among
them, it remained that the most feasible and expeditious
mode of returning should next be consulted. I could expect
to acquire but little additional knowledge in traversing the
route to Rendezvous ; and the necessary delay of several
months, it seemed could be avoided by a return by water.
The Hudson Bay Company were about to send a ship to
the Sandwich Islands, in which I was kindly offered a gra-
tuitous passage. On the other hand, my friendship with
gentlemen of this establishment, my regard for the spiritu.
al welfare of the benighted men for whose good I had for
many a weary day pursued my object, over mountains and
rivers, hills and valleys, through all the vicissitudes of
climate and weather ; and especially a desire to see in this
whitened field, the returning laborers I expected, and to be
able to give them personally, instead of by letter, the result
of my collected information, as a guide to them in their in.
cipient labors ; all this held me riveted to the spot, and un*
decided as to my course. At length after consultation with

I of this terri.
ly reach, as to
ons from the
having ascer-
lost prominent
netrating with
iterior, and the
nission among
nd expeditious
I could expect
traversing the
;lay of several
urn by water,
lend a ship to
offered a gra-
riendship with
ibr the spiritu-
[ood I had for
ioun tains and
icissitudes of
to see in this
|ted, and to be
itter, the result
m in their in-
spot, and un*
isultation with

DEPARTUKE FOR OAIIU — REFLECTIONS.

313

my most judicious friends, I concluded to tnko passage in
the harque Columbia for Oahn, in the hope that a speedy
opportunity would present to return to the United States.

In taking leave of this country and the work in which
I have so long time been engaged, a train of reflections
crowd upon my mind. Tiic future condition of this noble
race of men is a subject of interesting enquiry to many
others as well as myself. Whether the Indians are to pass
away before the increasing power and numbers of white
men ; or whether enlightened and improved by their phi-
lanthropy, they shall arise in tlie scale of human existence
is a question, wiiich at the present time is attracting atten-
tion and inviting investigation. I entered on the w^ork of
exploring this field with no bias or preconceived opinion,
and from critical and personal observation, I hesitate not to
say that I can see no reason existing in the nature of thingM,
or in their present condition, which, necessarily doorrw
the race to annihilation on the one hand, or on the
other necessarily makes them objects of apprehension, as
the future hordes who shall in coming time, like the north-
ern barbarians of Roman days, be reserved as the scourge
of an overgrown and decaying republic. If to do good l»c
an object worthy of humanity or religion, I see not why a
consistent and persevering attempt to raise a race of free-
men from their depression, and to place them in the rank
of intelligent men, be not an undertaking fraught with as
mucli promise and encouragement, as it was in earlier days
to raise our ancestors to their present elevation. In favor
of this opinion, we have the docility of the Indians in evf -
ry thing pertaining to their improvement; in the sprightli-
MPss of their youth and children ; and in the amiablcnewi
of their native tempers and dispositions among themselves.
1 take nothing of this upon testimony. In all my inter-
course with them, I saw, with only one exception, no an-
{irv or malevolent passions in exercise in their little cowv
87

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|H" "'J

'ti'HJii,.,.,--

■(' II lltK; flu

i.' . <• ■ . ■ • 1*'

'1:.,

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ft- ■

.1]. ■' .,

:|i'

it
I

314

REMARKS.

^■-:

munities. Why shall any look down upon the Indian
with contempt and doom his race to annihilation, and judge
of the whole, by those who have learned the vices of white
men, and had those vices stimulated and strengthened by
the cupidity of those who have excited them ? Why shall
not a redeeming influence be exerted to bring the Indians
to an elevated condition, to which their independent and
ambitious dispositions aspire, and to which God, as a part
of the family of man, designed them ?

I have in several places made mention of the superior
mildness of the climate west of the Rocky Mountains, and
that the seasons are divided into the wet and dry ; the rainy
season commencing about the first of November, and the
dry about the first of May. The following meteorological
table, which was taken with care, will give a general spec:.
men.

<-•

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METEOROLOGICAL TABLE.

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IHCETEOROLOOICAL TABLK.

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KBTBOROIiOOIGAL TABLS.

317

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MBTEOROLOOICAL TABLE.

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METEOROLOGICAL TABLE.

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320

METEOROLOOIGAL TABLB.

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METE0H0L06ICAL TABLE.

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METEOROLOGICAL TABLE.

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QO Tt^ 00 00 O O rf Ci 1-H O CVJ O ^ ?D :D Tt< (N CO O I ^
(MCOCOCOrJ^rf'^'^lOrJH'^'^COCOCOCOCOCOTf | ^

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00O'rf0!'*l^O00^O(MO0}'>DO00O^0C
OJCOCOCOCOCO'^CCrJ^ri^COCOCOCVJCMOJCOCVtCVf

(MCOrtLO'Oi>OOOiO;-H^

CO -^ ^ ^ 1> 00 Oi
GVJ (M (M (M (M 0? (M

METEOROLOGICAL TABLE.

323

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.«::

T::.:m

'N,

ar.

I/O

^ -3'

S ii

^ 3

in cloi
sun,

nd clo

1— ^

^ -^ '^

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S-i

day
y an
r,
clear

^ • *

C/5

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5i 3 > >-

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3i A >v ■

Q> aj o

-73 -^

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^ «- 5

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ff\

rning rail
and sun.

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METEOROLOGICAL TABLE.

-S

1^ Tt

c o

I -i

O C2

rt .S

(-1
1j

3
o

s
o

>-> C3

c r3

(A K ^ ^

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r— <

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»0 iD iD T:t^ '-t^ lO lO lO lO 10 LO Lt)

^ GO 00 -rt^ lO Ci r**
»0; 'Ti^ rf 10 LO rh 10

^ 'X' O 1-0 tJh -O 'i^ "rt^ O:? 00 O 1-0
•X \0 ^ to LO ^ 'X CO O LO ;C '"O

00 OJ -rt^ O O ^ OC'
LO 10 lO O ^ lO »o

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Oi CO c<i 00 a ^ tr

»0 Tt Tj' -^^ ^ ^ rt

O !—< ^.>f CO "^ lO' ;D }-- 00 Ci O r-H J fh OJ CO -rt^ lO ^ i--
<>? Cv? O) O! (>i CV? CM CV CM (N CO CO 3

s
a cj

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METEOROLOGICAL TABLE,

1)25

fe'

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0:3

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326

METEOROLOGICAL TABLE.

V 1^ .rt

O -^ "2 o5

tic

•

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•

tUQ

•

•**

■^

C/3

&«

1/3

•

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(X) i^ i-^

D 00 t^ LO
D lO iO "X*

Q CO rt< IH)

»2

VOCABULARY.

327

VOCABULARY OF INDIAN LANGUAGES.

NEZ PERCE

LANGUAGE.

English'

Indian.

God,

hemakis Tota.

Spirit,

koonapa .

Fatlier,

tota.

Man,

hama.

Woman,

iat.

Mother,

peka.

Child,

meaits.

Brother,

uskeep.

Sister,

axsip.

Husband,

hama.

Wife,

waipna.

«n.

Thou,

em.

He,

emim.

She,

aiat.

It, -

ke.

They,

elahne tetokan.

People,

tctokan.

Heaven,

accompenaka.

Earth,

waitush.

Water,

coos.

Fire,

aula.

Snow, ■

maika.

Rain,

waikit.

Wood,

haitsu. »

Grass,

pax.

Hell or bad spirit,

koonapa kapsoish.

Horse,

shecum.

White Bear,

ha hilts.

Black Bear,

eakat.

Beaver,

taxpulL

Otter,

collas. •'

Deer,

enishnini.

Moose,

taissheep.

Butlalo,

cocoil.

■II).,:

'if;'!-''' '*'■ !

f ri'. '■;■; j

,,;.(;; ... ' '
.1':^":: ■ " .
..■,,;■..' ,

•i>V'..

:;"'ii

.11 t

l\;i:l

''■' ,'.L j,-

tl-

"':»'

92S

VOCABULARY.

Wolf,

Salmon^

Trout,

Gun,

Pdwder,

Ball,

Stone,

What is that ?

Who is that ?

There,

Here,.

Where,

When,

How many ?

None, *

All,

Plenty,

Near by.

Great way oflV

This road,

Stop,

Go,

Run,

Gw fast,

Stop here,

Encamp,

Sleep,

Eat,

I hear.

Yon hear,

I understand.

Come,

r know,

You know,

He knows,

They know,

I do not know^

Talk,

Ride, . ^' "

Wait,

Swim,

Love,

siyah.

natso.

wowalthum,

temoon.

popokes.

saip.

pishwa.

etu ke.

eshe ke

koone.

kene.

mene.

mowwa.

moits.

sTou, ' '

oekalla.

elahne.

keemta*

wyat.

iskit.

collo.

coetuc.

willaikit.

haum teets. .

collo kene.

wispeix.

penemeek.

hipsh. \

en amachish.

em amachish > . .

en amacus.

come.

en soko.

em soko*

emimsoko. .

elahne tetokan soko,

waiitu en soko.

tumtein.

wyatcus.

coats.

shuway. . ■;iX^

aitou, \

VOCABULAKY.

Hate,
Kill,
Alive,
Make,
Take,
Cany,
Give,
Pay,

Make fire,
Worship,
Smoke,
Sun, moon,
Prairie,
^ Mountain,
Friend,
Chief,
Nez Perce,
BJacktbot,
Bonnax,
American,
Frenchman,
Head,
Hair,
Arm,
Leg,
Foot,
Cloth,
Saddle,
Pack,
-Beads,
Good,
Bad,
No,
Yes,
Great,
Small,
Sick,
Well,
To-day,
Yesterday,
Once more,
White,

28*

waiitu aitou.

wapseou.

wai kus.

ainees.

enip.

enip coeta.

enahanim.

tuinaitcus.

ailix.

toUa poosa.

keieta.

hasum looks.

paix.

mashun.

sextua.

meohot.

nCimepo.

quasne.

tuelca.

sueapo.

allTma.

hooshus.

hookoo.

artum.

wain.

akooa.

taliea.

supen sapoos,

supen saps.

collowin.

tois.

kapseis.

waiitu.

ai.

hemakis.

coots.

coiiiitsa.

penamina.

tax.

watish.

nox emaka.

hihi.

329

*''•■■
f i.

:)■,■;•

,fi !:'

jrtiliri :■■■■

.Mil' ,•

(,!.)!((=

'W^ii'^:!'-

330

VOCABUlAHf

cinmo cimmetDu.

Ipclp.

ailisj].

penasLiet.

portuinpt.

nox tit.

lapect tit. .

laap tit.

nietaip tit.

pclap tit.

pahap tit.

100

pooctap tit.

Black, ^
Red,

Vermilion,
Paint,

I nox.

"i lapeet.

3 metait.

4 peelep.
. 5 pahut.

6 elaix.

7 quoenapt.
6 weinuttut.
d quoics.

VOCAKULARY OF THi: KLICATAT NATIOIV, WHO INHABIT l^llW
COUriTKY NORTH GF THE CASCADES.

English.
God,

Evil spirit,
Sun,
Moon,
Stars,
Fire,
Earth,
Water,
Stone,
Wood,
House, '
Bread,
Fish,
Deer,
Bird,
Cov/,
Horse,
Dog,
Boat,
Man,
Woman,
Girl,
Boy^
Fingers,^
Foot,

Indian,
Moyoh.
melah.
an.

ulhigh'.
kashlo.
lokkowouksv
te 'tsum.
chow wass.
'p's swah.
il quass.
enneet.
shappleel.
t' kuinnat.
owinnat,
'hat 'hot.
moos moos stun-
kosce.
kosikkosee.
qaassass.
wince,
iyet.

p'tceniks.
ass wan.
pahhahtopat.
w&tlekas. ■•

VOCABULARY.

381

HABIT Unv

Toe,

Tongue,

Ear,

Mouth,

Lip,

Black,

Wliite,

Green,

Yellow,

Red,

Good,

Bad,

High,

Low,

Many,

Few,

Little,
Who ?
What?

Knite,

Bow,

Arrow,

Gun, '

Sea,

River,

Luke,

Mount a in,

Hill,

Valley,

Plain;

Here,

There,

Near,

Far oft;

Night,

Day,

Wliere,

Wiien,

I walk,

I talk.

None,

I know,

owhunghc.

njclkese,
misshu (i)lu.) pesaiimisshu.
metolla'hhow.
uni, (pill.) pcsah urn.
chCiiiook,
pilla.s.
lahm't.

penahkunnootowass,

kluti?ah.

seyah.

chilooeet.

•(|uaahn!e.

niCtee.

hngh'lak. ' •

niiliah.

iks.'ks.

sindewah.

Sinmisswah.

hahhittehne.

toonjinpasrs.

kiasso.

too\vini)ass.

ultackass.

waunah.

wattum.

'ke'ii

pussque.

•tkop.

tak.

itche.

ekko

no.
*tsahpah.
weat'tpah.
«tset.

echoosah.
minnan.
rnittach.
inikwcnahsah.
siiiwesah.
chahow.
assooksah.

if.-i. ^ ■ :

I' '•■«,*

i ..1

i p, ■■■

♦ ' -

;•■',• :ii

■•■■ .'■ i.i;

■ .. li,

■ < '■ .:'

: .

'■:k ' I:

832

VOCABULARY.

I have known,

mewe sah sooh sah

I see,

enahuklieno sah.

I liear,

innasick sah.

I taste,

quatas sah.

I smell,

annookse sah.

sah.

Thou,

imk'

He,

eqaak.

She,

equakiik.

Head,

chlamtukh.

Eye,

tats'k

Back,

koopkoop.

Come,

winniim.

Go,

winnak.

Give,

annik. '

Laige,

*nche.

Smaller,

mi'nchc.

Smallest,

ooksooks.

Beautv,

seen he wall.

All,

k'lhweek.

True,

chawnumsisk.

False.

t'sis.

Chief,

kooMtup.

Comnicn men,

Avullumteen.

My father,

hahtootas.

My mother.

naheclas.

Elder hrother.

nahnahnas.

Younjrcr hrother,

incoks.

Sister,

inchats.

Hiishand,

inman.

Yes,

dch.

No,

waht.

Benvor,

wispiiss.

Rahhit,

siiiwe.

Cat,

wasswass.

Wolf,

cnahte.

Bear,

'hollees.

Otter,

nooksi.

La/iness,

ilkkah.

Sl(Tp,

Usotali.

Soft,

liqnatuquat.

Strength,

h*too. '

VOCABrLART.

Swan,

wfihlialow.

Goat,

powyanin.

Beads,

k'pput.

Cokl,

'tsoisah.

Hard,

k'ttet'k.

1 lah's.

12 neep'twjlppena.

2 neep'l,

13 niettapt\v{ippena.

ii mettapt*.

20 neeptit,

4 peneep't,

;iO mettaptit.

5 pahhat,

40 peneeptit,

a p'tuhninis,

50 palihaptit,

7 tooskas.

60 p'tuhninsaptit,

8 pahhalihemaht.

70 toosknlisaptit.

9 Hsawlawsimkah.

80 pahhahtusap'tit.

10 hoteni.

90 'tsaulochsaptit,

1 1 lah'swappena,

100 potemtit.

VOCABULAKi' OF

THE CALAPOOA NATI0^•.

God,

'ntsompate

Heaven,

ahlupklooah

Evil spirit,

ehwakehe

Hell,

owievenah

Sun,

*npeun

Moon,

♦ntope

Stars,

*ntsalo\vah

Fire,

uninii

Eartlj,

umpullo

Wind,

♦ntolonh

Water,

♦mpahke

Wood,

owattuk

Stone,

'ntaugii

Bone,

♦ntsa

House,

ummi'

Bread,

shapplco!

Fish,

♦ntuniuak

Deer.

ammoke'

Elk,

'ntokali

Bird,

noknok

Horse,

kuetan

Cow,

njoosnioos

I>og,

•n'tul

Bout»

Miipnw

3:53

V H. it*:'. 1

334

VOCABULARY.

Man,

*noihee

Woman,

ehwahktsut

Boy,

ehwahpyah

Girl,

'mpeena

tsa

Thou,

mah

He,

annoihe

She,

ahwahkkotsut

My father.

hum nee

Your father,

makkan nee

My motlicT,

sin nee

Eltler hrother.

tah

Sister,

shetup

Husband,

tahwahke

Wife,

tahwahkc

Yes,

No,

kussowe

Head,

' unquah

Moutli,

tinte

Chin,

«tlak

Teetli,

tinte

Arm,

t'ntooque

Hand,

t'lakcpiah

Finger

taw'nah

Foot,

teuofoh

Ear,

toandunkahtah

Black,

mo'

White,

mow*

Blue,

Mnpulunk,

Green,

pitchish

Red,

'tselow

Good,

misso

Bad,

k ask ah

High,

t.'-aniiivunk

Low,

wallah

Many

milloe

Few,

•mponuk

Large,

pellah

Small,

ctoo

Who,

mc'(>h

Whnt,

aimikkee

Knite,

'nkaniibtik

■^ *

tic .

VOCABULARY.

Bow,

unchin

Arrow,

un'owsuk

Gun,

sukwallahlah

Sea,

mullak

River,

*ntsok

Lake,

wassetnummeke

Mountain,

peotahmefook

Valley,

wMlah

Night,

moovoo

Day,

'mpeyon

Here,

m'hash

There,

piefan

Near

'mchillali

Far off,

ni'lokkio

Where,

mutchoo

When,

tahnondeh

To talk.

tanuk

To walk.

o'w&llowah

None,

*nwa

I see.

chats'onhot'n

Beaver,

*nkipeah

All,

teloh

Chief,

'ntsombeek

Common .' ",

anwoekee

Come,

mahek

Go,

tattea

Give,

mahaque

Swan,

mow '

Rahbit,

iimpon

Wolf,

molent

Bear,

■iiiino

Sleep,

towi

Hard, .

'p'tsfikkolloo

Soff,

Mnptit'l

Boil,

liplip

1 townolu

S kc'nifiwc

2 kanial),

9 'quisitcli

3 posh in.

10 teeneefefih

4 toiiwaii.

1 1 tocnofoalipotownah

5 \\\\\

1 2 toeiiotiiahpokumuh

fl tfttib

■JO kcefotoncfcnh

7 p'sinmewc

30 p'shintcnofeah

335

r '

! :.

336

VOCABULARY.

50 top wall tenefeah

100 tenefeah . h4^

40 wultenefeah

1000 tumpeah

VOCABULARY OF THE CIIEXOOK LANGUAGE AS SPOKEN

ABOUT

FORT VAXCOUVER.

God,

Cannum ' '

Heaven,

coosah

Earth,

illaha

Fire,

olaptska

Water,

isuck

Sea,

weeoma s

* River,

ibolt

Sun,

otiah :; :

Moon,

ootleum

Evil spirit, ' „

skookoom , V '

Hell,

skookoom

Boat,

conim i

Knife,

opitsah /. J

Gun,

sucw^llal

Powder,

poolalla

Ball,

colietan ' ,[

Air,

kummataz t»,(

nika " -l J

Thou,

mika ■ .

He,

yahkah

She,

yahkah

It or them,

klaska • . . ,

Chief,

tie

Boy,

kaskas

Girl,

I'kpho

Sister,

ahts

Father,

tiiecumniuiua

Mother,

st*llmama

Pe(»ple,

tilecum ,

\'es.

ah, aha

No,

wayick or wake

Good, ^

Bad,

wake close

Very bad.

nicstsa

Large,

hias

Small,

tunas " .

Far,

sja I

Little way,

tunas .sia

VOCABULARY.

Great way.

hias sia

To go fast,

clatua hiuc ' ,

Not fast,

wake hiuc

Black,

klaait

White,

t'koop

Blue,

spock

Red,

pelpil

Green,

pcteish

High,

saghalle

Low,

kekuile

Now,

witka

Much,

oghooway

Little,

tunas

Who,

•tkaksta

What,

ikta

Mountain,

saghalle illaha

Valley,

kekuile illaha

Where,

cah

Here,

ookook

Night,

poUaklc

None,

haino

Bear,

siano

Beaver,

eena

Fox,

tiskowkow

Wolf,

leelo

Deer,

mouecch.

Horse,

kuetan

Cow,

moosmoos

Dog,

kamux

Salmon,

(juanagh

Bird,

kallakalla

Speak,

Wj\Wii

1 speak.

nica wfiwA,

'I'hou speakest,

mica wflwa

He speaks,

yakkti wiwa

They spetik.

klaska wtlwH

Make,

mammook

T make.

nica mammook

Thou inakest,

mica mammook

He makes,

ya,kk{\ mammook

They mako,

klaska mammook

Come,

chawko

•29

337

■i..:';. .if'

ii.i'fi

Hi,.?'!''" •

HI' ■:'•■

•i:.-'

..;<<;>

338

ORNITHOLOGY.

Perhaps, or I do not know,

chinas

Understand.

cumetax

. I understanc'.

nica cumetax

Now I understand,

alta nica cumetax

Sleep,

moose )m

I have, or it is with me,

mitlit nica

T walk.

nica clatuwa

Long ago.

aunacotta

See,

nonencech

Eat,

mucamuc

1 eght,

8 stoghtkin,

2 moxt.

9 quiitz,

3 none.

10 taughlelum,

4 Makit

20 moxttughlelum,

5 quinum,

40 'lakittaghlelum.

6 tohhurn.

100 taughlelum taughlelum.

7 sinnamox.

Subjoined is some account of the birds of Oregon
Territory, which, however, are not so numerous as those
which inhabit civilized countries, probably because they
have not access to the grain and fruit of cultivated fields,
and woods and groves are not so common a? in most other
countries. But they are sufficiently numerous to afford the
ornithologist one year's study and labor, and a profitable
opportunity for preserving specimens. This region is par-
ticularly interesting from the fact, that in this as other depitrt.
ments of natural science, it has until latelv been an unex-
plored field, no competent person having been here to class^
ify the different genera and species, or to describe them sci.
cntifically, before Mr. J. K. Townsend, an ornithologist
from Philadelphia, who has spent two years in this field,
and will give to the public the result of his labors, and to
whom I am indebted for assistance in the following sum-
mary.

The largest part of the feathered race a-e migratory, and
arc seen only a part of the year ; there are many, however,
that reside here during the whole year. Among these* are
the majestic, white-headed eagle, three or four species of

ORNITHOLOGY.

339

hawks, two species 6i jay, the magpie, and thousands of
ravens and crows ; several species of small sparrows, and
two or three species of grouse, the common partridge of the
United States, and the dusky grouse of the Rocky moun-
tains ; and also an interesting species of the dipper or wa-
ter ousel. Its habits are very curious and peculiar, partic-
ularly that of descending to the bottom of ponds and swift-
ly running streams, and there in search of small shell fish,
remaining under water, for at least two minutes, during
which time it will course about upon the pebbly bottom,
with as much apparent ease and satisfaction, as if upon'
dry land. The red winged blackbird and the robin continue
through the year. The notes of the latter are heard even
in the chill of the winter, but in feeble strains.

As the autumn advances, the number of swans, gecsc, and
ducks multiply. I have already made mention of these wa-
ter fowl. The black cormorant is common u\)on the river,
and tliere are other species of the same genus, seen
about the shores of the Cape, which do not ascend the riv-
ers. The loon, or great northern diver, is very plentiful in
this river. Gulls, terns, auks, and pctrals, in great num-
bers, visit tliis river to seek shelter from the violent storms
"vl'hich agitate the ocean during the winter.

The spring, with rising vegetation and opening flowers,
brings its hosts of lovely feathered tribes, wliicli remain dil
ferent periods of time ; many of them only a few weeks,
and then retire to other parts for nidification. There are,
however, great numbers that remain through the summer, and
their delightful songs add to the citarins of a fine morning'
of April and May. Among these arc hundreds of warblers,
wrens, titmice, and nuthatches. Of the warblers thore are
eleven species, six of which are new, tlie other live are
common to the States. Several of the species are but tran-
sient visitors, but the most of them remain through the sea-
son. Of the wrens there are six vspecies ; tiiree of the tit.

.I.;.,
tit."-

Is;:;;

340

ORNITHOLOr; V.

mice ; and two of the nuthatches. And in the train fol-
low the thrushes, of which tlicre arc seven species, two of
which are new; the fly catchers, numbering eight species,
throe of which arc new ; and tliirtccn species of the tinch-
OS or sparrows, three of whicli arc new. These are a large
and musical band, among which are several of the finest
songsters known in the world. The Wilson's thrusli is
preeminent in song ; but in no instance is there to be seen
more richness and delicac)^ of plumage, with the most
swocl melody of voice, than a new species of a large bull,
tinch, which visits this section of country in the spring.
If those were domesticated, they would form a most valua-
ble addition to any aviary. There are eight species of
woodpeckers, four of which are new ; and of the swallow
tribe there are five species, one of which is new, which
I have described, and is the most beautiful of the family.

I pass over the mention of many genera and still moro
numerous species of the diflerent birds of this region, as it
is not my design to attempt a history of them, my object
being only to give a succinct sketch, that some idea may
be formed of the ornithological treasures of this interesting
country.

DEPARTURE FOR SANDWICH ISLANDS.

341

CHAPTER XXV.

The voyage commenced for the Sandwich islands— passage in the boat
down the river — take passage in the barque Columbia— detention in
Chenook bay— arrival at the island— worship in the native church-
description of Oahu— the Pari — the valley of Manoa— description of
Honolulu — of Waititi — heathen temple — Eva — Waialua — Keneohe —
mountains—salt lake — geology — natural productions — animals— gov-
ernment — tea party of the royal family — dinner to the officers of the
Peacock and Enterprise — decrease of population— unfair negotiations
—foreign residence — charity school -seamens' chapel — burying place
of the royal family — missionary success.

<Vi ■. ■

I'l;!.. i

•"1 . ^^■■■■

I..;-- :,;!.'i !

On the 18th of June^ according to previous arrange-
ments, I took passage in the steam-boat Beaver, for Fort
George to join the barque Columbia for the Sandwich islands.
We had a good passage down the river, and anchored for the
night a little above Tongue Point ; and the next day arrived
at the fort. I went on shore on the 20th, and in an excursion
along the shores below, I found some very large petrified
bivalve shell, embedded in calcareous sand stone of the terti-
ary formation. They are very perfect, and have all the
lustre of living shells ; the largest which I have as speci-
mens, measure longitudinally four inches and a half from the
hinge and five inches transversely, beautifully scalloped.
For a considerable distance around the location of these
shells, there is no appearencc of volcanic action. These,
with one turritella found in the mountains south-cast of
Vancouver, were the only petrified organic remains I saw
west of the Rocky Mountains.

On the 21st we dropped down to Chenook Bay, and ancii-

ored just above Cape Disappointment. Here, for the want

of favorable wind and tide, we were detained until llie 28th
29*

Ht I.I

li"!

342

GREAT CAVE.

M':'

Wlule we continued here, I made several excursions on
shore ; ascended the Cape which is probably about four
hundred feet high, and from which a fine prospect of the
Pacific and its shores is presented as far as the eye can
reach. The shore is generally bold and rocky, furnisiiing
no harbor near. The country around is rocky and dense-
ly covered with forests, and the scenery is wild. Near the
shore on the west end of the Cape, there is a large cave in
the volcanic rocks, extending about one hundred and fifty
feet long and twenty {cct high. It seems to be the haunt
of wild beasts. Across the Cape upon the west bay, were
found the finest flavored strawberries of any I ever tasted :
and about the Cape at difierent places there were many of
the new species of large yellow raspberry, which are far
more inviting to the eye than to the taste.

While we were detained here, our men belonging to the
Columbia caught a large number of codfish. They taste
very much like, and resemble those taken upon the banks of
Newfoundland, excepting they are a little shorter. This is
the first time they were known to exist in these waters :

1 7

the Indians knew nothing of them before, and eagerly took
those we did not need.

On the 25th, the bar being smooth, with only a light wind,
though ahead, and the tide favoring, the steam-boat weigh-
ed anchor and put out to sea for a northern voyage. She
went over the bar finely, and could have towed us over, but
it being her first experiment, it was not thought advisable.

On Tuesday, the 28th, the wind and tide were favorable
for passing the bar, and we set sail at half past three in the
afternoon. There was a heavy rolling sea ; and every man
at his post, one on each side of the ship constantly
throwing the lead to take the sounding. Four fathoms
and a half was the least, and this was little enough consid-
ering the heavy swell. The bar has a very bold termina-
tion ; for we passed from seven fathoms to no soundings

ARRIVAL AT OAIIT.

343

where the sea presented its dark bhic. The land receded,
and in a few hours it disappeared ; and notliing was to he
seen but one wide expanse of ocean. Our voyage to Oaliu,*
Sandwich islands, was attended with nothing remarkable,
excepting it was performed in much shorter time than usu-
al, it being only sixteen days from the time we left the Co-
lumbia river, to our anchoring in tlic roads of Honolulu.
We took our direct course, and kept it without anv varia-
tion, and with a few exceptions without shortening a sail, the
distance of two thousand five hundred miles. An almost en-
tire uniformity marked our progress, and excepting the
common alternations of day and night, sun^shine and clouds,
nothing interrupted the monotony of the scene.

On the morning of the 14th of July, land was announc-
ed. The islands of Ranai and Morakai were near, and as
we passed them, we had a near view of the latter. It is
not so mountainous as most of the others of the group, and
presented rather a sterile aspect. We soon after made
Oahu, and passed on the east side around to the harbor of
Honolulu on the south. This harbor is the best and almost
the only good one in any of the groups of the Polynesian
islands. The entrance is somewhat intricate, and requires
an experienced pilot to take ships in safely. Within the
eoral reefs the water is sufficiently deep for ships of almost
any magnitude ; and this, with the long extended roads
without the reefs which affords good anchorage, renders the
port desirable, and the island, in a commercial point of
view, the most important of any in this part of the Pacific
ocean.

We went on shore two o'clock in the afternoon, and I
was invited by Rev. H. Bingham to his house, where I met

..i: ■

''I,
ill

tti'

111.

t'ii:

fjl

♦ Pronounced Wauhoo.

344

DESCEIl'TION OF OAIIU.

^'■1

several of the other missionaries, and felt much rejoiced to
behold again a christian community.

The heat of a vertical sun was very oppressive and en-
ervating, and w^as it not for the refreshing effects of the dai-
ly north-east trade winds, it would be insupportable by a
northern constitution.

On sabbath 17th, I attended worship in the native church,
and heard Rev. Mr. Bingham preach in the Hawaiian lan-
guage to a very large assembly of natives, probably two
thousand five hundred, who gave very good attention. They
were all decently dressed, while some of them were in the
European mode, the most of them were dressed in their na-
tive costume, and made a good appearance. Their conduct
and attention were very becoming, and many listened with
deep interest. Madam Kinau, the queen regent, and the
royal family, were present ; and although it was easy to
distinguish them from the common people, yet they made
no ostentatious display of royalty. Their dress was rich
but plain, and they paid sober attention to the worship of
God. The performance of the singers was good, but there
was not that melody in their voices which characterizes the
Indians.

The house of worship is large and commodious, one
hundred and ninety feet long and sixty-two feet wide, built
ir the native style, a large frame, with the roof and sides
covered with thatch.

Oahu is the most northern of the Sandwich islands, sit-
uated in north latitude 21° 18' and in west longitude 158°
38'. Its greatest length is forty-five miles from Koka on
the south east to Kakana on the north-west. The great-
est portion of the island is on the north-east of this line.
Its greatest breadth is twenty-eight miles from Kahuku on
the north to Laeloa (Barber's Point) on the south ; about
four-fifths of the island is on the east of this line. The
island is very mountainous ; the highest eminence is called

THE PARI.

34.>

(joiced tc

J and en-
)f the dai-
ible by a

ire church,
aiian lan-
)ably two
on. They
sre in the
1 their na-
ir conduct
;ened with
t, and the
is easy to
hey made
was rich
worship of
, but there
terizes the

Uous, one
tvide, built
and sides

lands, sit.

tude 158°
Koka on

'he great-
this line,
ahuku on
th ; about
ne. The
e is called

Honahunnui, and is a little over four thousand fuot. Tlio
Pari, at the upper end of the valley of JNuiiann, north of
Honolulu, may be counted anion jj the curiosities of the is-
land^ principally on account of its being a part of the
main road, or rather the only one to Kcncolio. It is one thou-
sand one hundred and tbrty feet al)ovo the level of the sea,
and six hundred feet nearly jwrpendicular. This is to be
clambered up and down in passing from Honolulu to Kene-
ohe, and to a stranger it is a fearful undertaking, it being
necessar}' to have a native to assist in pultini; your feet in-
to the crevices of the rocks. And yet tiie natives j)ass up
and down with their calabashes of 'poi, with their loails of
melons, iish, and other commodities, without any lilfu ully
more than fatigue.

Some years ago, in a war between Taniaehameha and
the J.ing of Oahu, the final battle was fought here which
decided the fate of the island. The king of Oahu made a
desperate struggle ; and one part of his routed army, mo ';
than three hundred, were pursued to this precipice, fbi c-
ed down, and almost all were dashed to pieces.

On each side of this pass, needle pointed mountains rise
up two thousand feet forming a narrow chasm, through
which the north-east trade winds rush with great violence.
Before you, at the north, you have a very pleasing view of
the fertile valley of Kolou ; and beyond is a fiue prospect
of the bay and wide spread ocean. The valley between
the Pari and Honolulu is seven miles long ; th. upper part
of wiiich is narrow and very picturesque. Inler-.sting cas-
cades are seen dashing down the almost perpendicular moun-
tains, and the whole scenery is covered wiUi fresh folia<je.
This was almost the only place where the cool and invigo-
rating breezes gave me relief from the oppressive heat.
The lower part of the valley is wide, and covered to a great
extent with tare patches.

Tare is a bulbous plant of the genus arum, and is planted

i.: :'<

iM •■:,

■• 1

346

VALLEY OF MANOA.

in hills upon patches of ground, so formed, as to be partial-
ly flooded with water, somewhat after the manner of culti-
vating rice. In eight or ten months after setting the plants,
it is fit for use. To prepare it for food, it is always neccs.
sary to roast it, to take out the pungency which is common
to the genus, as found in the wild tiirnip. It is frequently
eaten for bread with no other preparation except roasting;
or it is made into poi by pulverizing and making it into a
stiff* {>astc. The natives prefer the poi when soured by fer-
mentation.

East of this valley is another called Manoa, about five miles
in length, running north from Diamond Hill. It is well
watered by streams descending from the mountains, formed
by showers of rain which frequently fall upon them, and
which sometimes extend to the valleys and plains. Its fer-
tile soil is well cultivated with sweet potatoes, taro, and
melons. At the upper end, Kaahumanu, the late queen re-
gent, who died in 1832, had a house built for retirement
from the bustle of Honolulu, and for d( votion, near a beau-
tiful cool grove of ohia and kukui trees,* on an eminence
commanding a view of the valley below. Near this dwell-
ing, she caused a house to be built for the accommodation
of the missionaries, when they should wish for rest, and to
be refreshed with the invigorating air of the mountains.
The evidences of her christian character were convincing.
Her piety was active. She traveled thn>u;;h all iln' islands,
from lime to time, to see that the j)e()ple attended the means
of religions instruction, an<l the schools ; and to reconj-
mend the religion of the IJiblo to all classes of her s»d)j(;cts.
Her e\am|)le, as well as her authority, was powerful in sup.
pressing intemperance, and tin; niany vices which threaten-
ed the ruin of her country. Her influence was le!t not

♦ Tli<> kiikiii tPX' Items a mil as larpri' ns n liliu-k waliiui, a stniijj el
which is \\9{<l for cundkf, and hciuo the irco is culled the candle tree.

HONOLULU.

■Ml

only by her own peoplo, but also by foreigners wlio visited
timso iwhinds.

VViicn I visited this spot of remembrances, the buildings
were far gon(^ to decay ; but not the ehcrished regard of
her piety and philanthropy. This spot presenliul a very
pleasing view of the high and precipitous mountains around
on every side; excepting the south, which is open and ex-
iiibits the grandeur of the rolling ocean. The many cas.
cades around upon the mountainsides added to the interest
of the scenery. Among the variety of sluubbery, we found
the coHeo tre(^ with its fruit in various stages of maturity ;
the arrow r(»ol ; v.ml the brake tern growing, in many in-
stances, to the height of twenty Ibet. From a bidb, near
the root, is taken what the natives call hapuii, a silky down,
which makes excellent beds and cusiiions.

Honolulu is situat(!d on the south side of the island, on a
bay of tin; same name, and is the capital and business j)lacc
of all the islands. The land around and on whicii the village
is located is a dry barren, excepting on the north. west,
which is moist and cultivated with taro j)atches, with some
cocoanut trees interspersed. The buildings generally are
in the native style, thatched; n)any are built with (lobn
walls after the s|)anisb manner on the coast of Mexico and
Peru, that is, with large sun burnt bricks male about two
teet long, eighteen inches wide, and ten inches thick. The
clay u njixed with cut .siraw to strengthen thoiu, alter t\u)
manner of the ancient Egyptians. Their enclosures are
built in the same manner. There are several good build.
ings made of rock coral in I'lnglisb slyle, some of which arc
spacious and well finished. The village contains about nine
thousand inlmbitants, three hundred of whom arc English
and Americans. Most of the commercial business and
trade are carried on by foreigners, which is of large amount,
increased by the resort of whale ohips, fall and spring, for
repairs aud fresh supplies, particularly vi^getablos j it is the

;U8

oLn 1I^^VT^K^' Tinfri.r,

■t^l^^

m"':'

i'k

pliici! al uliirli all uihcr ^lii|)|>iii!r <»>iicli which na\i|Titt(>i
tills ccoati lV<nu i'iUr»>i><' ;:!i>l At:i'.Ti«"a in tht^ ChiiicM; ;iinl
ICast fndia frr.ic. 'i'his place is ccmslaiilly f^rowing in im.
|M»rtan<'(', and niiisl roiiiiiiuc to (Ij)"o iVoui i(s local a<lv;m.

la^i's.

I'onr iniirs sonlh-cast of Iloiiohihi is (he pleasant nutivc
\ ilhi^o oT VVailili, sllualcd on the hay of tlic .^aiiio name.
Il «'(inlai!'.s Jive or .six hiinch'cd inhal»ilanls, is siluatcd in a
hcaiililul <rn)v<« nl* roccanut ttci s, which adds very much to
ils a{>pcarcncc and ctjnjfort. 'I'liis phw"/, if the cidlivulion
was pro|)orlion<Ml lo the riclincss of the soil, nii^ht !)«; iiia<I«'
one oi the most deii^litriil spots on the island.

Ahonl two nulcs cast of this villa«io arc the n mains ol'
an t»ld heathen temple, in which human sacritices were of.
terctl ; a part of the walls ol' the enchisure arc still stand,
in^. Various methods w<"rc employed to ohtain victims.
()?UM)f which was to lay a tabu upon all the people in the
whole region around, that no one lor a <'tMtain j)eriod of
time slundd ^o out of their «lw(>llin^s, or mal\(^ any tiro in
them, upon pain of death. If any violated the lahn, they
w(U'e a|>preht<nded and sa<'rilic(Hl to their idols. If they
wen; unsuc«'i'ssfid ill ohtainin^ victims in this wav, tht'y
would sriu\ out men in a canoe, to ranjj(» alou;^ hetwocn the
coral HH'f and the shore, iind to fei(;n tlistrcss, and if any
were decoyed out tor their relief, they were appreiicnded,
and carried to the temj)Ie. and olfercd in sacrilice.

It is a pleasin«i^ consideration, that the heni^n influence
of the gospel has dispelletl these IiUmkIv and cruel Hupersti-
lions of heathenism. I had an opportunity of seeing an
old man >vho had l)ccn a hi«rh priest in these bloody rites.
He has no hope that be is interested in the salvation of the
pospel, but he ^aid it iamaitai. (;j;ood.) and that the christian
reliirion is so firmlv established in these islands, that their
ancient idolatry can never ajrain be revived. He salute<l
ine with many alohas. Mr. Bins;liam gave liiiii some nc

WAIAUIA.

n4»

H«i

I'.avifiulr

incsc ;viiil
iiig in iiu-
;il ailviin-

II nl niitivc
mo nMnu\
uiiU'd in ;i
v nuu'h to
iMillivutlon
it be niiul'3

i( mains of
'S wvvv. *»t-
Htill stan<l-
in viclinw.
jple in the
I period of
any tiro in
talin, they
. If they
way, thoy
Lot ween the
and ir nny
l)|)rehcndcd,

^1 inllucnce
ul siipersti-
seeing nn

loody rites.

It ion ot* the

|»e <-lnisti«n
that tlieir
|Hg sahitod
li some ac-

count of xuy journey across the Roeky mountniuH and tho
object, lie said it was *to<k1, and that (iod wan with nr»c
and |)reH(M'V(!d me. He Haid in their former rehpion, they
were ail ignorant — all was darkness, entire darkness, but
now the light shim^s. He said, that when ('aptain Van-
couver visited tUv.sc. islands in the reign of Taniaha, he urg-
ed the king to nmotmce idolatry, and the king promised he
would, when christians would s<;nd from the land of light,
u minister to teach them in the right way. They waited
until their king died without knowing the right way, and no
<tne cani(! — and none came until Mr. Itingham and his as-
sociativa in th(5 year lH2(h This okl heathen priest gave
up his religion and his honors, and took Mr. B. by the hand
«>n his first arrival, and called him brother, and has ever
since lieen friendly to the missionaries. His wife, whom I
also saw. has a hope that she has experienced the saving
power of the gospel.

The only road, or any thing which deserves the name of
a road in this island, is l)e^ween VVaititi and Honolulu.

Fourteen miles west of Honolulu is l*'iva,*a village of con-
siderable magnitude, hut not very compact. It is situated
on Pearl river, at th(5 head of a large lagoon, extending sev-
eral miles inland, and is surrounded with a fertile valley
reaching twelve miles north, which is two. thirds of thedin-
Uinr.r to Waialua. The highest elevation b(«tween these
places is about four hundred feet, and is intersected in va-
rious p!H<;es with deep ravines. Eva is the station which
Rev. Artemtis Bishop and wife* occupy, and whosti prowpects
of usefulness are encouraging. VVIien I was (here, thi; na-
tives were engu;];ed in building a substantial and commodi.
ous hous(} ui' worship, aiui appeared to take a deep interest
in the ellbrt.

•1 1 .

i •:;

t !

t : . .

•Pronouncwi Ava.
30

350

KENEHOE.

In the north-west part of the island, is the village of
Waialua, where Rev. John S. Emerson and wife are sta-
tioned. The village is situated upon a wide spread bay,
which would furnish an excellent harbor for any shipping,
if there was sufficient water upon the bar at the entrance.
The valley around is large and fertile, capable of being
made very productive. On a sabbath which I spent here,
eight natives, six men and two women, were received into
tlie communion of the church, who appeared very intelli.
gent and serious, and who conducted with as much propri-
cty as is seen in the most civilized parts of the world. I
felt a satisfaction in joining with these redeemed heathen
in the ordinance of the Lord's supper. Every part of di-
vine service was conducted with christian decorum. I was
particularly pleased with the appearance of the native deii-
con, who was dignified in his person, dressed in good taste,
and very devotional in his liehavior.

The only remaining village of any considerable impor-
tance is Keneohe, where Rev. Benjamin W. Parker and
wife are stationed. This village is in the fertile valley of
Kolou, near the shore of a pleasant bay, which would af-
ford an excellent harbor if there was sufficient water at the
entrance over the coral bar. This village is about four
miles north of the Pari, and is the most cool and refreshing
retrea- I found upon the island. The basaltic mountain
on the south, three thousand feet high, and nearly vertical ;
and the north-cast trade winds give a temperate atmos-
phere, not found in any other part of tiic island sufficient-
ly low for a village.

Mountains. Tiie greatest part of the island is moun-
tainous, two are of considerable magnitude. The largest,
Koanahumanni, is on the cast side, and runs parallel witii
the ocean ; the highest part of which is four thousand feet
above tlic level of the sea. This range of mountains is
without many cones, is very pointed, and has several pa-

; ■»-.!-■ '

SALT LAKE.

351

village of
; are sta-
read bay,
shipping,
entrance.
1 of being
ipent here,
leived into
3ry intelli-
ich propri-
world. I
ed heathen
part of di-
•um. I was
native den-
good taste,

able impor-
Parker and
le valley of
h would af-
water at the
about four
id refreshing
I mountain
ily vertical ;
rate atrnos-
sufticicnt-

id is moun-

The largest,

urallcl with

lousand feet

lountains is

several pa-

ries. At the great Pari, the upper end of Nuuanu, the
main chain turns to the west, and terminates towards
Waialua. The north side of the range, west of the Pari,
is very precipitous, having many spurs projecting to the
north, including deep, pit-like ravines. The other range is
on the west part of the island, called Kaala, running north
and south, separating Waianae on the west, from the val-
ley of Eva on the east. The highest point is three thou-
sand eight hundred and fifty feet. There are many conical
hills of different magnitudes in various parts of the island,
which evidently were ancient craters ; one six miles south,
cast of Honolulu, called Diamond Hill ; and another a
short distance north of H. called Fort Hill. They are open
and concave at the top, with high walls, reeded down the
sides, wiiicli appear to have been formed by streams of
lava, and by tiie action of water, cutting ravines. There is
an abundance of lava and other volcanic productions about
theso liills.

The salt lake, four miles west of H. is of the crateric
form. It is a great curiosity, as well as source of trade.
It undoubtedly has a connection with the ocean, near which
it is situated, by some subterrineous passage. Its depth is
not known, being nearly filled with excellent crystalized
salt. The quantity is immense, and is taken out in large
quantities for sale. The appearance of the lake is like be-
ing covered with ice, a little sunken below the surface of
the water.

Cieolocv. Tlio ffcoloiiical formation of this island and
all tiic (tihcrs in (lie Pacific wliich I saw, and concerning
which I obtained information, arc volcanic and coralino to
a great extent. What some have supposed, is very much
to bo (k)ubted, that theso islands have been thrown up in
the first place by int(»rnal iires, and then enlarged by coral-
ine additions. Tli(?re is too much argillaceous soil to favor
the Iwlief ; and to say the least, the supposition is without

; '1.;

. I' >

■ I '.
' 1 1

( '

,!■;;

362

PBODUCTIONS.

the least evidence more Ihan what theorizing men invent.
Much of the soil is formed by disintegrated and decomposed
lava. The reefs lying off from the shores, and in some
places immediately upon them, are coral. The coralines
are divided into ancient and modern ; the latter still in.
creasing. Between these formations is a volcanic deposit.
The ancient cora'ines are found in many places forming
the surface of the plains, elevated some six or eight feet
above the present level of the sea. As the polypi, which
form coral, never work above water, it is evident that these
islands have been elevated bv some subterranean, or subma-
rine power, or the ocean is subsiding ; and as this recession
of the ocean is seen in various parts of the world, in near-
ly, if not the same degree, is it not probable that the wa-
ters of the ocean are gradually diminishing ? Of the mod-
em coral, there are many grades, from the rock to the most
beautiful kinds resembling trees and plants, and of various
colors. The volcanic formations do not differ materially
from those in Oregon Territory. Cellular lava is very
common, often bordering upon pumice, and of various co-
lors ; brick red, ash colored, orange yellow, and green. No
primitive rocks are found, nor any silicious sand ; the sand
upon the shores being formed of either disintegrated lava,
scoria, or coral.

While I shall not attempt a minute enumeration of the
productions of these islands, the following arc some of the
principal : viz. Cocoanut tree ; bread fruit ; coa tree,
which furnishes lumber nearly equal to mahogany ; hybis-
cus, candle nut tree, nuiiberry, fig tree, cotton tree of very
fine quality ; coflee tree, grape vines, oranges, lemons, limes,
pine apples, mellons of superior quality, sqiuishes, sugar
cane, arrow root ; indigo plant, wliich grows finely without
any care ; tlie gudva, a fruit resembling mandrakes, but not
80 agreeable to the taste of those not unaccustomed to them ;
taro, swt * and common potatoes* banana, a great variety of

ANIMALS — GOVERNMENT.

353

I invent.

lomposed

in some

coralines

still in-
J deposit.

forming
;ight feet
pi, which
that these
or subma-

recession
1, in near-
t the wa-
f the mod-
o the most
of various
materially
a IS very
arious co-

reen. No
, the sand
latcd lava,

lion of the

)nie of the

coa tree,

jy; Kvbis-

le of very
|ons, limes,
hos, sugar
lly without

;s, hut not
to them ;

ivarictv of

terns ; a great variety of most beautiful flowering plants,
such as the oriental lilac, eight different species of mimosu ;
the pride of Barbadoes, several varieties of convolvulus, and
mirabihs, passiflora or passion flower; roses, Spanish pink,
Mexican pea, and many others of beautiful texture ; also
garden vegetables of various sorts.

The animals of these islands, when discovered by Cap-
tain Cook were very few ; the most of those now found up-
on them have been introduced since. There are now, the
horse, the mule, neat cattle, goats, hogs, dogs ; fowl, a few
birds ; and among the few the crow and raven, which are
common in almost all parts of the world, have not found their
way hero. There are but very few reptiles ; not any
snakes ; ])ut tiic green lizzard is very common, and was in
the days of the idolatry of the Islanders worshipped, and
such is the influence of superstition upon the human mind,
that thoy can hardly dismiss all feelings of reverence tor
this insignificant reptile. If one comes into their dwellings,
they clioose to lot it take its own departure rather than to
molest it. The scorpion and centiped have within a very
few years fbtmd their way here by vessels. The musque-
toe was not known here until recently, and now they are
numeroi's and very annoying.

The government of these islands is absolute and heredi.
tary, administered by the king, queen, and chiets, whose
will is the supremo law ; the common people are a nation
of slaves. The lands belong to the government, and are
leased to the people at high rents, and even then the peoj)le
have no security, that they shall enjoy the avails of their
labor ; for beside the stipulated rents, the government make
any additional demands they please, and the people are
taugiit to ol)ey without complaining. The persons of the
chiefs, are remarkable for their extraordinary size, lower-
ing quite above the height of the conmion people, and in

corpulencv preserving corresponding dimensions. The king
30*

ri. '

f !■ ■

I !•■;'

i iM

■J ■

I II ■'

I I:.

, i ■

I I.

'. (•

354

TEA PARTY DOG FEAST.

secures his house and person by life guards. Very frequent-
ly on a Saturday morning the queen regent, attended by
her train and servants in equestrian style, visits her garden
aome two miles from Honolulu. Their appearance is fine
and they are well skilled in horsemanship. Her ordinary
mode of riding in the street is in a small, low-wheel car
riage drawn by twenty servants. The Sandwich islanders,
or kanakas, as the common people are called, have less ac-
tivity of body and mind than the Indians of our continent,
and yet a phrenologist would say that their intellectual pow-
ers are well developed. In their present political condition,
they are not expected to be otherwise than indolent and im-
provident. In their dress, mode of living, and habitations
generally, they have made but little advance upon their days
of heathenism ; some in the interior, especially, wearing lit-
tle more clothing than their maro, and having their dwell-
ings in caverns in volcanic rocks. This however is not
true of many ; for the chiefs, and some of the people, have
good houses, dress in good fashion, and live comfortably.
The king, queen regent, and chiefs gave a tea party, to
Avhich with a few others I had the honor to be invited.
They were dressed richly and in good taste ; their table
was splendidly arrayed with silver plate and china ; the en-
tertainment was both judiciously and tastefully arranged
and prepared, and all the etiquette and ceremony of such
occasions was observed. The conversation was cheerful
and intelligent, without frivolity, and nothing occurred em-
barrassing to any one. At a suitable early hour, we were
invited into a saloon w ell furnished, where, after a perform-
ancc of music, both vocal and instrumental, the queen pro-
posed that prayer should conclude our agreeable visit ;
which was done, and the company retired. I have seen
but few parties in christian America conducted more on the
principles of rationality and religion.
An entertainment, however, is sometimes transacted in a

=i^

DECREASE OP POPULATION.

355

frequent-
ended by
cr garden
ice is fine
• ordinary
vheel car
. islanders,
^e less ac-
continent,
ctual pow-
condition,
nt and im-
labitations
their days
/earing lit-
heir dvvell-
jver is not
eople, have
jmfortably.
party, to
le invited.
;heir table
[la ; the en-
arranged
ly of such
s cheerful
currcd em-
, we were
a perform-
Iquecn pro-
lable visit ;
have seen
iiorc on the

Isacted in a

different style by some of our countrymen and other for-
eigners in those islands. A dog-feast, as it is there called, was
given by foreign resident gentlemen, on the 20th of Sept.
at the country seat of the American consul, in honor of the
officers of the American squadron, the Peacock and Enter-
prise, then in the harbor of Honolulu. I extract from the
account published in the the Sandwich Island Gazette as de-
scribed at the time. " Food in native style was bountiful-
ly served up — baked dog was among the dishes, and it was
not to be despised. Songs, toasts, cheers, bumpers, and
speeches all came in their t'lrn. Among the toasts were,

' Commodore our commodore J* Commodore's reply,

* May you all live a thousand years, and may we always

meet here.' Doctor of the United States ship Peacock.

^Population and prosperity to the Sandwich islands, and an
end to all oppressive tabus J* The party separated teeming
with good spirits."

The population of these islands has been decreasing ever
since an acquaintance has been had with them. Captain
Cook estimated the people at 400,000. The present popu-
lation is about 110 thousand. A variety of causes have
conspired to bring about this declension, and yet no one so
prominent above the rest, as wholly to satisfy enquiry. It
is acknowledged l)y all observers, and it has become evi-
dent to the government itself, that a change of things in
the internal structure of their national affairs, is nccessa-
ry to the prosperity of tiie people. During my stay at
Oahu, tlie heads of the nation had frequent meetings to dis-
cuss the subject of reform and improvement, and to adopt
some new mode of administration which will give to the
people the privileges of freemen, and tliercby stimulate them
to industry. To eflect this, tlic lands must be distributed
among the people ; a more equal mode of taxation must be
adopted; industry must be encouraged, and progressive
prosperity will follow in train.

I'm'

i'lr

.lii

\\''

I !

356

UNFAIR NEGOTIATION.

The perpetuity of the independence of this nation, and
with it their existence, is very problematical. A disposition
to possess these islands, has evidently been manifested by
foreign powers. Whether the paw of the lion, or the tal-
ons of the eagle, shall first make them its prey, or whether
they shall be mutual checks upon each other, and thus pro-
long the life of this feeble nation, is not known. The man-
ner in wh: zh the king and chiefs are often treated by the
officers of foreign nations, the insults they often meet with,
would not pass with impunity from a more powerful people.
In fair and honorable negociations, regard is had to mutual
rigiits, but here foreigners assume the style of dictation ;
"You shall, and you shall not;" — and assertions are made
of things existing in the laws and practices of England and
America, which neither government would tolerate. Lord
Russel, the commander of the Acteon, a British man of war,
obtained tlic signature to a certain instrument, by assuring
the Hawaiian government, tiiat if they refused any longer to
sign it, he vi^ould order all the English vessels to leave the
harbor, and request all tlie American shipping to withdraw ;
and tlien bring his arnicd sliip before their fort, and batter
down the walls, and prostrate their village. The king sign-
ed the instrument ; and tlieii he together with the queen and
chiefs, like some other people wiio feel their feelileness be-
fore a mightier nation, had only the poor resort of a pub-
lie remonstrance. They accordingly sent a remonstrance
to the king of Great IJritian, in which thev sav, that " on
account of their urging us so strongly ; on account of said
commanders assuring ustliat tiieir communication was from
the king ; and un account of tiieir making preparation to
fire upon us, — therefore we gave our assent to the writing,
without our being willing to give our real approbation ; for
we were not pleased with it." Tliey feel incom|)etent to
contend with naval strength, and therefore submit to indig-
nities from which their feelings revolt. Why can not the

?-lf

■MHSf

ation, and
disposition
li tested by
)r the tal-
ir whether
I thus pro-
The man-
ted by the
meet with,
tul people.
[ to miitiial
dictation ;
are made
tigland and
ite. Lord
lan of war,
y assuring
ly longer to
I leave tlu;
withdraw ;
nd batter
ving sign-
queen and
eness be-
ot' a pub.
lonstrancc
that "on
unt of said
11 was from
aration to
writing,
ation ; for
nj)etont to
t to indig-
an not tlic

FOREIGN RESIDENTS.

357

principles of justice and equity govern tiie intercourse of
men with men, where they are so well understood, and the
painful necessity be spared of innocence and helplessness
supplicating that protection which heaven grants to its
children.

Much has been said of the cliaracter of the foreign res.
idcnts, and of the counteracting influence they exert upon
the labors of the missionaries in that field. The cause of
their bitterness and opposition to them is well understood,
and lest my own observations should seem partial to the
missionaries, and invidious toward those who oppose them,
1 will embrace all I have to say on the subject in a quota-
tion from a work published by Mr. J. N. Reynold of the
voyage of the Potomac, an American man of war. He
certainly can not be accused of partiality to the missiona-
ries who reside on these islands, for his remarks on them
are somewhat acrimonious, but in regard to the foreign res-
idents he says, " they are generally devoid of all religious
principle, and practice the greatest frauds upon the natives
in their dealings with them ; which tends to corrupt their
morals, and to preclude all hope of fairness in trade among
them. It can not be denied, and no one can regret it more
than we do, that tliis whole population, generally speaking,
are of the lowest order ; among whom every thing like de-
cent restraint which civilized society imposes upon its
members, is at war with their vicious propensities, and of
course resisted by them to the extent of their power." He
farther adds, " let us be distinctly understood in the remarks
we have made in reference to the foreign residents and mis-
sionaries on this island. As to the question, which party
is on the side of virtue and good order, there can be but
one opinion, where there is not even room for comparison."
I have been in communities where vice has been as unblush-
ingly indulged, but I have never witnessed direct enmity to

* ■
i' i

I' .

!■;!:•

358

ROYAL CEMETAHY.

every thing morally good, in so much of its bitterness and
power, as in Oahu.

Most of the foreign residents have native wivi ?, and
manifest a regard for the education of their chi' ek;
and send some of them to other countries for this purpose ;
but for most of them a charity school has been established,
and for its support a call is made upon the commanders and
officers of vessels who come into this port ; and they have
even sent to England and America for charitable aid.
Though some poor are taught here, yet I know not why the
benevolent should help, by way of charity^ the consuls and
rich merchants in Oahu.

I visited the seamen's chapel and preached several times
for Rev. Mr. Diell. While there are often several hundred
seamen in the port of Honolulu, there are frequently very
ieyf attendants on the regular services of the chapel. Rev.
Mr. Diell, their worthy chaplain, is however indefatigable in
his labors through the week, visiting sailors on ship board,
and wherever he can find them, endeavouring to promote
their spiritual good. Some conversions have crowned his
efforts.

On the occasion of the funeral of an infant of the Prin-
cess, whose husband is Leleiohoku, alias Wni. Pitt, I visit-
ed the burial place of the kings and royal family. This is
a stone building of rock coral, of the common size and
structure of the houses of the village, and situated amongst
them, having nothing particularly distinguishable except
an outward signal, by which is understood the number and
rank of the dead within. They are encased lirst in lead, se-
cured from the admission of air, and then deposited in cof-
fins of elegant workmanship, ornamented with silver or
brass plate, and covered with rich silk velvet or damask ot
crimson. Here sleep the remains of Rihoriho, and Kame-
hanialu, who died on a visit to England, and several others

MISSIONARY SUCCESS.

359

mess and

and

eii

chi
s purpose ;
istablished,
stnders and
they have
liable aid.
ot why the
onsuls and

^eral times
•al hundred
ently very
pel. Rev.
fatigable in
ship board,
to promote
rowned his

laying in state ; while in the same tomb, are interred a
number of other members of the royal family.

The missionaries of the American Board of Commision-
crs for Foreign Missions in these islands have done much
to elevate the character of the population, by teaching
and preaching the truths of Christianity, by schools, where
the first rudiments of education are taught, by the press,
and a translation of the entire bible ; they have exer-
ted a salutary influence upon the morals of the whole na-
tion, and raised a monument to the power and excellence of
the gospel of Jesus Christ. They have also laid, instru-
mentally, a broad foundation for the political, and social,
and religious improvement of that people, unless thwarted
by the interference and opposition of foreigners, and for
the future and unending happiness of many redeemed souls
in the world to come. I had frequent opportunities of wit-
nessing the effect of their labors in the evidences of the
moral renovation of these once idolaters, and of meeting
with them in their great congregation on the sabbath.

■1;

!'•

•■'I
.1.
•1

h i

the Prin-
itt, I visit-
This is

size and

d amongst

ble except

umber and

in lead, se-

ted in cof-

silver or
damask of
md Kame-
cral others

360

nOMEWAllD BOUND.

CHAPTER XXVI.

urn

■'* t'

fjl.)

Departure from Oahu in ship PhcBtiix for the United States — call at
the Society Islands— brief description of Tahiti and Einieo — severe gales
of wind— Magellan clouds— Martin Voss island— Trinidad— arrival at
New London.

From July to November, no vessel departed from the is-
lands direct for the United States, and after being detained
about five months, waiting an o|)i)ortunity to return, I en-
gaged a passage in the Phajnix, Aliyn, from New London,
and embarked December 17th. The ship was built for the
China trade, of four hundred and ten tons, manned with
twenty-cight persons, besides five passengers. The pilot
boat left us well out at sea, at nine in the morning ; our
course south-west. On the morning of the 21st, we en-
countered a strong wind, which in the aflornoon had in-
crv^ased so much, that we had to put two reefs in the top
sails ; and a squall split our jii) and sprung our foremast.
I had no opportunity or disposition to enjoy the gnindeii r
of the rolling ocean, being confined to the cal)in by sea
sickness. Our ship was engaged in the whaling bu-
siness, and I was furnished with an opportunity of seeing
the cxperiuiont, once, of taking a whale. The thing has
often been described, but the novelty of the manoeuvre in-
terested me. The experienced and skillful whalemen dis-
pose of the dangerous process, with the tactics of tiieir pro-
fession, in a manner much beyond uiy concei)tions before
witnessing it; and the monster of the deep, though mighty
in his strength, is made to submit to inferior [)ower, and to
contribute largely to illuminate our evenings at home.
There are said to be thirty thousand men employed in this

TETAROA AND TAHITI ISLANDS.

361

tts— call at
severe gales
I— a nival at

im the is-
y detained
irn, I en.
r London,
lilt for the
ined with
The pilot
ning; our
jt, wc en-
1 had in-
tiic top
foreniast.
grandcu r
n hy sea
iliiig bu-
of scoing
thing lias
lEUvre in-
inon dis-
hcir pro-
is before
h migiity
M", and to
il iionie.
d in thi8

business in the Pacific, while only aboui four hundred are
engaged in diffusing the light of life through the dark pla-
ces of tiie earth.

January 12th, 1837. Tlirotigh the whole of to-da> wc
had strong gales from N. N. E. Our top sails were close
reefed, — split our main top sail. Headed to the E. close on
the wind. Very bad sea — not able to take any observation
of oi'r latitude or longitude. These gales continued on the
13th until aln^.ost every eail was taken in, and wc ley to on
the wind. The last part of the day was more moderate
and .ve headed south. By observation taken to-day, our
latitude was 14° 47' south.

Sabbath, 15th. The winds subsided, and the weather was
warm. In the morning wo came near Tetaroa, a small is-
land of the Society group. It is low, rising but little above
the level of the sea, thinly inhabited, and covered, in parts,
with groves of the cocoa nut tree. Like all the islands of
this ocean which I have seen, it is surrounded with coral
reefs, laying off at a little distance from the shore, and
upon which the sea constantly breaks. In the afternoon
we approached the harbor of Papeeti at tlie island of Tahiti.
The pilot came off* to us, and made an effort to get the sliip
in, but did not succeed, the wind being too light, and we
had to bear oflf for the night. Monday the 16th we got
safely into the harbor, where we found the Daniel Webster,
Pierson, from Sag harbor ; on board ol which were Rev.
W. Richards and family, passengers for the United States.

We continued in this port four days, during which time
I made several excursions about the island, and liecaire ac-
(piainted with the English missionaries, of whose success-
ful labors I had often heard and read ; the Rev. Messrs.
Wilson, Pritchard, and Darling, and their families. They
appear happy in their work, and devoted to it. The chris.
tian religion is tlie only religion acknowledged in these is-

ands, and its influence is universally apj)arcnt. Be.
91

• ..

362

GOVERNMENT.

sides preaching on the sabbath, the missionaries have re-
ligious service on other days of the week. At sun-rise
every morning they have a pubHc prayer meeting. They
are doing much by their schools and the press ; and most of
the people can read. The performances of the natives in
vocal music pleased me, their voices being very eoft and
musical, though less cultivated than the Sandwich island-
ers. Their personal appearance, complexion, language, and
dress much the same as those. Their advances in the arts
and in agriculture are less than might be expected of them,
but in a cUmate where so many fruits vegetate spontane-
ously, the necessity of cultivation is less imperious. While
the harbor is not as good as that of Oahu, less is done by
way of wharfing, or otherwise to facilitate business, or aid
in repairing the shipping which visit this island. A good
public road has been commenced to extend around the
island ; but it is now neglected, and all the bridges are bro-
ken down.

The government here is much the same as in the Sand-
wich islands ; but in some respects more free and systema-
tized. Their judiciary is well organized and justice is tol-
erably well administered. Their legislative body is com-
posed of the queen, governors, chiefs, and two representa-
tives from each district, of the islands of Tahiti and Eim-
eo ; the laws when framed are canvassed by the people, and
if approved, receive the queen's siTnature. The young
queen Pomare is of very prepossessing appearance, talent-
ed, and has descision of character ; but her views of civil-
ization arc not so enlarged as those of Madam Kinau.

Tho American consul, of these islands, resides at Papec-
ti ; he is a Dutchman, and as he informed me, a native of
Antwerp. His English is iiardly intelligible, and his knowl
edge of the duties of his office is yet to bo acquired.

Tho islands of Tahiti and Eimco like the other large is-
lands of the Pacific arc volcanic and coraline. They arc

RwH^if

PUBLIC FEAST.

363

have re-
sun.rise
r. They
d most of
latives in
soft and
;h island-
uage, and
n the arts
d of them,
spontane*
s. While
s done by
iss, or aid
A good
round the
es are bro.

the Sand-
i systema-
tice is toK
y is com-
cpresenta .
and Eim-
)cople, and
'he young
cc, talcnt-
s of civil-
inuu.
at Papcc-
native of
his knowl
red.

r large is-
Thoy are

mountainous, many of which are high and steep, and ma-
ny of the valleys are deep and narrow, extending far into
the interior. To s. considerable extent the soil is rich and pro-
ductive ; oranges and all the other tropical fruits being abund-
ant, and requiring little lahor or care. Such is the indo-
lence of the inhabitants that they cultivate little besides su-
gar cane and a few vegetables. These islands are well sup-
plied with forests, in which are several kinds of wood equal
in value for cabinet work, to mahogany. Although there
are many pleasant and inviting things in these islands, yet
they come much short of the Paradise which some journal-
ists have described ^ The heat most of the year is very
oppressive.

I would not fail to mention the kind hospitality of Rev.
G. Pritchard and family, and an agreeable excursion I made
to Point ''enus, the eastern-most port of the island, which
is uncommonly delightful ; and the pleasure I had in taking
tea in the family of Rev. Mr. Wilson.

During my short stay, the queen and royal family of a
neighboring island, paid a visit of friendship to Tahiti.
This afforded me the very desirable opportunity of remark-
ing the manners and customs of the people. A public feast
was given in honor of the royal visitant ; and the day was
ushered in by firing rusty guns, of which they have a very
few. The morning until ten o'clock was occupied in
collecting together their cocoanuts, bananas, baked hogs,
&c. Many were out to purchase calico scarfs of two
or three yards in length to wear in the procession. A
V ery large procession formed, the women taking the lead,
and the men following in order. A female with an infant
in her arms led the van. This was explained to me as done-
in honor of mothers; for here as well as at the Sandwich
islands women arc regarded as in all respects on a par with
men. Ail were well attired in European stvle, their headt^t
adorned tastefully with garlands of most beautiful tropical

364

WATER SPOUT.

Vjr->

I*:

flowers with wliich their sea-girt isle abounds in profusion.
After taking, in single file, a long and circuitous march, they
arrived at their feasting bower, under a grove of cocoanut,
bread-fruit, and orange trees, where near the centre, with
an infant, sat the royal visitor ; and each Tahitian as they
passed, threw down at her feet their scarfs or some other pre-
sent. It was the pleasure of the queen, however, not long
to retain all tiicso tokens of honor ; for she seemed happy
in generously giving them to others. This is considered
one of their most joyful holidays, and was managed without
noise, confusion, or any apparent infraction of the rules of
propriety. It must be recollected that ibis is a temperance
island ; all trafiic in ardent spirits being prohibited by law.

On the morning of Saturday 21st January, we left the
harbor of Tahiti with a light wind, and as we sailed around
Eimeo, its mountains, with their densely wooded tops and
precipitous sides, appeared in full prospect. On this island
there is a high school for the children of the missionary
families of the several islands.

We proceeded with a favoral)le wind until the 30th, when
our latitude was 30° 27' south, and iongitude 153" 10' west.
I was here uuich gratified to witness the interesting phe-
nomenon of a water spout. It first became visible to us
about half a mile distant as it arose, and at that distance
we had no apprehensions of danger from it, and yet it was
sulficiently near to give a distinct view. It commenced in
a small, dark, and nearly perjiendicular column, enlarging
its diameter as it rose until it readied the region of the
clouds, when apparently feeling the inlluence of the wind,
it passed obliquely to the south west. It continued in view
some time, but as we wei*e proceeding on our course, it grad-
ually disappeared.

On tlie 4th of February, fresh lireezcs from the north,
west took the j)lace of the south-east trade winds, and our
course was laid E. S. E.

irli

ACCIDENT HEAVY 6ALB.

365

refusion,
rch, they
!Ocoanut,
tre, with
I as they
»ther pre-
not long
sd happy
)nsidered
i without
) rules of
iipemnce
1 by law.
'. left the
id around
tops and
[lis island
issionary

)tli, when
]()' west,
ing phe-
le to us
distance
et it was
3 need in
nlarging
n of the
JO wind,
in view
il gnid-

north.
;ind our

Oh the 5th, we had strong gales from the west. Put two
reefs in the top sails, and took in the mizzen top sail, and'
handed the main sail. The sea was very heavy. On the
9th the wind was more moderate ; and while the men were
engaged in spearing porpoises, one of them fell overboard
from the bow, and went directly under the ship, and came
up under her stern. The life buoy was thrown over to him,,
but being an indifferent swimmer he was long in his efforts
to seize it. By lowering the boat and rounding about the
ship, he was recovered on board much exhausted, and al-
most overcome with the cold. Hundreds are daily, by a
great variety of occurrences taken from the world, and the
certain knowledge awakens but feeble sensations in our bo-
soms ; but a solitary case of individual danger and suffer-
ing which we witness, arouses all our anxieties and sympa-
thies, and we r.re grateful when relieved by the safety of
the sufferer.

On the 16th and 17th, the gale was tremendous. We

were in latitude about 47^ south, and 120° west longitude.

With nearly every sail taken in, we could only run before-

the wind, and the waves were constantly breaking in over

our bulwarks. Such was the roaring of the wind and

breaking waves, that it was difficult for the orders of the

captain to be heard, upon his loudesi voice, from midship,

forward or atlt. The wind blew tons of water into the air

and scattered them into a thousand sprays. I never had

such evidence of the power of wind and water, nor of the ad-.

mirable man'^.i- the sliip could live in such a ga'c. She

would roll upon tiie waves and plunge and rise again upon-

the mountain !)illows. The whole scene was fraught with

magnificence and grand»^M . It was a great favor that we

had a courageous and c <j<erionced captain ; and a sober,

active, and obedient crow ; and above all the protection of

Heaven. Two men weie constantly at the wheel, selected

from our host steersmen. We shipped a groat (quantity of
31*

366

THE NODDY AND ALBATR08S.

ar^

'JliM

water, and on the night of tlie 17th, the fore deck, scarcely at
at any time, had less than a foot or two feet of water, the
waves breaking over faster than the water had time to pass
through the scuppers. Two pumps wero at work a large por-
tion of the time to keep the ship clear, so much was constant-
ly finding its way down the closed hatches and otiier leakages
of the deck. Tlie two men at each pump, labored so forcibly,
that it was necessary to be relieved by others every three
minutes. I reflected on the condition of those who were
not prepared for death, and that even to a christian a quiet
deatii bed would bo })referable to leaving the world in such a
scene of confusion. But we were spared in great kindness,
and the following morning the wind began to abate. Cap-
tain Allyn, who iiad been into most of the principal seas,
aii<I fpvmud both of the great Capes, said he never, except
m a lyphoon which lie encounted on the Japan coast, saw
any ::vale which equalled this.

The gales continued with frequent squalls of hail and
;aiii vintii the 28tli, when we found we were driven to the
Sd""' of jouth latitude, and 77" wciit longitude. This was
fartijcr south of Cape Horn thau v,e wished to go, and the
weather was cold and thick, the thermometer ranging be-
tween 41"^ and 47- for several days. On the 1st of March
we saw for thu llrst time alter leaving Tahiti, a sail to the
windward heading soutii-west, bu> were unable to speak
her. It was very pleasant to iind our latitude le^ssening in
our homeward co'.rse, tliough we were not up with the cape
until tlie tiiird .)i" Marcli. Dining the gak-s, and cs])L>ciallv
in stormy vtaliier, our vessel was \ery frequently visited
by a bird \vhjch navigators call tho Noddy, and which is
easily tdken by the han('. It i.>. of the Tern genus, twelve
inches long, slenderly foruied ; its plu na^e is a dark sooty
brown, excepting the top of its iuad which is dusky while.
Tlic Albatross also was constantly Hying about un, regard-
tees of wind and waves. Our men caught several of them

By-

MAGELLAN CLOUDS.

367

ircely at
iter, the
d to pass
irge por-
jonstant-
leakages
tbicibly,
ry three
ho were
n a quiet
in such a
kindness,
e. Cap-
pa! seas,
r, except
>ast, saw

hail and
n to the
fhis was

and the
ging be-
3t' Marcli
il to the
to speak
lening in

the cape

sjK'ciallv
y visited
which is
s, twelve
rk sooty

y while,
icfrnrd-

oi' them

with a hook, the heads of which, when standing upon the
deck, were four feet high ; their aler measurement was ten
feet. Although they are generally of a brown color, yet in
the region of Cape Horn, they are from a mixture of brown
and white, to an almost entire white. They are the larg-
est class of the feathered race.

• We had for a long time an opportunity of observing the
Magellan clouds; which are three in number, two luminous
and one black ; about thirty degrees distant from each oth-
er and are lixed in their relative situations as are the fixed
stars. Their altitude above the southern horizon lessens to
the beholder, according as iiis latitude diminishes, as he j)ro-
ceeds north. Their undefined forms are about five degrees
in diameter. The luminous ones undoubtedly are formed
by clusters of stars, so numerous and contiguous, and so
distant, as only to give a glimmering light like lumi-
nous clouds, which gives them their name ; and the black
one is very probably the entire absence of all light. I gaz-
ed at these, night after niglit, with wonder and admiration.
It seemed to me, tliat looking at the dark one, was looking
beyond created nature into infinite space.

Gales occurred occasionally after wc doubled Cape Horn,
but most of the time was j)lcasaut and the winds favorable,
until the 27th of Marcli in south latitude 23° 27', and west
longitude 28° 34', the wind came around to the north,
and continued to blow in a northerly direction ten days,
which retarded our progress, and carried us ofi" our course
to the east, until we were brought into 20° west longitude,
where wc cluing(!d our cours(; west by north. On the 1st
of April we spoke an East Indiaman. She was a very
large, fine-looking ship, about eight hundnd tons, well tilled
with men, wom(>n, and children, who probably were passen-
gcrs for New Holland. This was the first ship we had sj)o-
ken after the Spartan, near the line on the other side of the
continent. It is diflicult to imagine how pleatant it is to

%»^

368

MABTIN VAS8 AND TRINIDAD ISLANDS.

.Jr

see and speak a ship after having been months at sea. A.
few hours after we saw another East Indiaman, but did not
speak her. By falling in with these ships, we found we were
so near Africa, that we were in the track of ships from
Europe to the Cape of Good Hope.

The same day we buried in the great deep Benjamin
Hamilton, a seaman. It was a solemn transaction to com.
mit one of our fellow creatures to a watery grave. The
colors were raised half mast, the corpse, with weights at the
feet, was laid upon a plank at the gang way, — all hands
were gathered aroimd ; and after some remarks suggested
by the occasion, and a prayer, the plank was shoved over
the side of the ship, and the dead disappeared to be seen no
more.

On the 2d, we made Martin Vass islands, which are five
in number, composed wholly of volcanic rocks, without any
soil ; some of them are cones, shooting up four or five hund-
red feet. Two are very small and needle pointed. They
are all so precipitous, and the sea constantly breaking
against them, that there is no landing. Their forms are
fantastical ; one of them having the appearance of a forti-
fication with bastions, about which are needle points resemb.
ing men on guard. They are in 20° 31' south latitude, and
28° 38' west longitude. By changing our course more
westerly we made Trinidad off against St. Roque, which is
an island of considerable size, and in latitude 20° 28', and
longitude 29° 5'. Near evening wo were fifteen miles from
it, and wishing to land in the morning, we took in sail and
lay off for the night. Some Portugese once settled upon
it, but it is so difhcult of access, that they abandoned it, and
it is now without any inhabitants.

On the morning of the 3d we ran down to within three
miles of the island, and manned three boats to go on shore ;
but finding no place free from breakers, wo gave up the at-
tempt, caught a lew tisli near the shores, and after being

EVENINGS AT SEA.

369

did not
we were
ps from

enjamin
to com-
B. The
its at the
1 hands
[iggested
ved over
I seen no

are five
lout any
ve hund-
. They
creaking
rms are

a forti-
resemb-
ude, and
se more
which is
28', and

es from
sail and
sd upon
d it, and

n three
1 shore ;
the ut.
■r being

much annoyed with flies which came off to us, wc returned
to the ship, and with a favorable breeze pursued our course.
This island is also volcanic, has an iron-bound shore, and is
mountainous, the highest part of which is about fifteen
hundred, or two thousand feet. It is a^place of resort for
multitudes of birds and sea fowl, some of which are large.
I had an opportunity to see, but not to examine, the man-of-
war hawk. They are numerous here, and while they are
handsome, they are also ravenous, always taking their prey
upon the wing. There were many of the perfectly silky
white species of the Tern, which hovered over us witli great
tameness, as though they wished to form an acquaintance
witli us, not suspecting any hostility.

Most of our nights as well as days for a long time were
clear, and the stars were seen with remarkable brightness.
What has been described by others of evenings at sea, in
tile southern hemisphere, I had an opportunity of observing
with admiration. The richest colors of red, orange, and
yellow, spreading over tlie western sky after the setting
sun, and often over the whole concave of heaven. No pen-
cil of art can imitate the tints and hues which blend in
softness over tliis scene of beauty. Nature's pencil only can
lay on tliese delicate shades, and add to it the brilliancy,
ever varying, of so much richness and splendor.

In the deep seas wc did not sec many fish ; of the few
which came under our observation, the dorado, or as com-
monly called, the dolphin, and the pilot fisli excelled in the
beauty of their colors. The former, when taken upon deck,
constantly ciianged its ctlor from the brigiit purple to the
gold, the bluish green, and to the silver white, and these
spreading out into vanishing shades. The pilot fish is
equally beautiful, but is singular in the choice of company
and employment ; always being found with the shark, and
conducting him to his prey, from which it derives its name.

Tiie fiying fish is a curiosity, furnished with the means of

370

CB088 THE EQUATOR — LAND DB8CBIED.

occupying air and water, but finds no friend in either ; pur-
sued by the dolphin and some other fish it swims with all
speed until wearied, and then takes to flight in the air,
where the albatross and the tropic bird hover over to make
it their prey. In their flight they often fall upon the decks
of ships, where man shows them no mercy.

On the 19th of April we passed the equator. F<>f a few
days we had calms or only light winds with showers. The
heat was very intense, and calms under these circumstan-
ces are more to be dreaded than gales. But we were much
favored, and soon found ourselves in north latitude, where it
was very interesting to see the north star once more, though
only just above the horizon.

All objects at sea are considered worthy of notice, and
among these the gulf weed which we saw in great abund-
ance before we came to the gulf stream. We entered and
passed the stream on the 14th of May, in 36^ 37' north lat-
itude ; and though a rough sea is generally expected in the
stream, yet we had a very pleasant time. The current is at
the rate of three miles an hour, and the temperature seven
degrees warmer than the adjacent water.

On the 17th of May, at three in the afternoon, we were
cheered with the cry from the mast head, " Land ho ! ahead."
It proved to be Block island. We came in sight of the
light-house in the evening, but too late to attempt to get
into New London before morning, and therefore lay off for
the night. In the morning we found ourselves among vari-
ous shipping bound to different ports. Passed Montauk
Point and drew near to New London, where the sight of
the city, the shipping in the harbor, the country around,
and the islands dressed in green, conspired to excite pleas-
ing admiration, and especially to one so long conversant
with heathen countries and a wide expanse of ocean. Pass-
ed up the Thames to the city, and I rejoiced to land once
more upon christian and civilized shores, my native land.

ARBIVAL AT HOME.

371

tlier ; pur-
a with all
n the air,
r to make
the decks

Fof R few
ers. The
rcumstan-
rere much
if where it
)re, though

" where my best friends and kindred dwell." In taking leave
of the Phoenix, I felt it due to the captain and crew to say,
that I received from them every kind attention I could wish,
and being a temperance ship, I did not hear a profane word
from any while on board. We had public worship during
the voyage on the sabbath, and the word of God was bless-
ed as there was reason to believe, to the saving conversion
of some souls. I found kind friends in New London, and
after arranging my business, directed my way to Ithaca,
where I arrived on the 23d of May, after an absence of
more than two years and two months, and having journey-
ed twenty -eight thousand miles.

lotice, and
iat abund-
itered and
north lat-
sted in the
irrent is at
ture seven

THE END.

I, we were
! ahead."
ght of the
ipt to get
lay off for
nong vari-
1 Montauk
e sight of
ry around,
cite pleas-
;onversant
^an. Pass-
» land once
lative land.

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