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In this little volume, an attempt has been made to give a brief narration of the Author's rapid journey through Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, Canada, and part of the United — or once United — States. He does not aim at anything beyond the bare recital of a narrative, with here and there a few passing observations, on the history of those countries and their institutions. Very much has been written about America and Canada by numerous able pens. But, in an age like the present, when the claims on our time are so numerous that but little attention can be bestowed on any single subject, it is to be hoped that the few loose notes from ■^"H which this little book 1ms been compiled, will not be found unacceptable to those who may peruse it, and that the reader will extend to the timorous venture and its defects, the most indulgent criticism. (' January 1st, 1863. o— TABLE OF CONTENTS. Preface Erabarkatiou The Voyapfe Icebergs A Gale The Cod Fisheries off Newfoundland Arrival at Halifax, N.S. Wild Flowers of Acadia Halifax— how first Colonized Description of Halifax Struggles of the early Settlers Universal Suffrage - An Election by Universal Suffrage Journey to Windsor, N.S. - St. John's, N.B. St. John River Fredericton, N.B. An Indian Encampment Departure for Canada Arrival at Portland, Maine - Description of Portland The Maine Liquor Law The White Mountains of Vermont-The Grand Trunk Railway - Clearing an Estate ~ Free Grants of Land in Canada PAOB 1 a (i 7 8 d 10 12 14 20 23 24 25 26 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 37 38 31) 11 Quoboc - . . . . WolCo and Montcalm Tlie Citizens of Qmihcc— Falls nf Montinoroncy Tho IMains of Ahraliain Siogo of (^iieheo .... Inscription to tho Memory of Wolfo, in Wostorliani (Jhurch - - . . . Tho (Jemetory at Mount Herman - Montreal • - . . . Tho Water Works at Montreal Victoria Bridge - - . . Kingston ..... Lake Ontario - - . . Shooting the Rapids The Thousand Isles - - . . Journey to Toronto - - . . Toronto - - - . . Barrie - - . . . Hamilton - - . . . Character of the Canadians— Constitution of Canada Arrival at Niagara .... The Clifton House Hotel—Falls of Niagara Descent under the Horse-shoe Fall • The Table-rock Album Extracts from the Table-rock Album The American Falls .... The burning Spring .... Niagara Suspension Bridge - Buffalo The Erie Canal— Mr. Filmore's House Albany - - . . . Eiver Steam-boats .... The Hudson River— a Conversation with a Politician Arrival at New York Hotels of New York . . Ficti: 45 46 4!) 51 03 53 54 50 07 08 63 63 61 60 70 71 73 74 75 79 80 82 84 80 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 97 08 09 '■) \ Now York Tlio Croton Aqueduct I3roadwny Names in Brornhvay - My impressions of the Americans Tlie American Ladies Morality in New York North and South The Slave Question - Policy of the South and tlio North General McClellan . Philadelphia Hand-loom Weaving at I'liiladelpliia Tho Girard College - The Bell which announced.American — Fairmount Water Works The Citizens of I'liiladelpliia Eetum to New York— the Railway Gars Railway TravolUng in the States - Preparations for Embarkation to England Passage Home, and Arrival in England Indepcndencf 111 iMiii': Joo 103 lu;{ ]()r. 107 lOS 101) 110 IL'i lit lir> li(} llH 119 121 123 123 124 125 120 r-1 A VKEP AT THE W KSTERN WORLD. Amkiu(A ! — that vust ('(mtimait of the west, a lund roplote with iutert.st to all, not only on account of its immense! extent unfl population, but because of the important moral and political share, hidden in the future, Avhich it is destined to take in the world's histor)- iVow, thou^dit 1, as .1 stood at the hotel dooi* in Liverpool a few hours before embarkation, I am about to visit this won- drous eountiy — a tittiuj!: elimax to my travels, which until now had alwavs Ijccu eastward. I had travelled a good deal of Europe?, a gi'eat part of Asia, a little in Africa, and now, mused 1, T shall see America. Embarking at liiverpool by the **Cunard" steamer ''Niagara" at noon on Satui-day, Apnl 23rd, we -weighed anchor at 1 * 15, and proeeeded at a slow pace for a short distance down the .iver Mersey, where we were busied by taking on board the ** Royal ^lail," which was carefully packed in bags and boxes, the fonuer numbering 76 while th({ latter were only nine. This having been accom- plished, the painful duty oi' " leave-taking" followed, u ini; vovA«ii: orr. :tf'ter wliicb, and the (l('])a]lTiro of IVii'ntIs 1'or shore, c'vc'iytliing was reported ''right," and we fairly ^'oninienccd our voyage, and left the port, with its I'xtensive shippiiig, lapidly behind. AftiT con- gratulating ourselves upon the fineness of the wi'athc^r, we each and all commenced the pleasant task of making accjuaintauces. I found that oiu- number consisted of fifty-four first-class passengers and thiity-two second-class, nuiking together a total of eighty-six, which, considering the <'rew, amount- ing to sonu* 108 or 110 hands, was a freight which called for the serious attention and care of the commander. Having been favoured v.ith a letter of introduction to Captain ^lillcT, I took the earliest oi)portunity of presenting it. Captain M. gave me a cordial welcome, and made me his right-hand guest for the trip, a consideration the comforts of which are known only to those who arc accustomed to . jH travel. A trip across the broad Atlantic has been so frequently detailed that it would be almost fiupeiiluous my attempting :i repetition ; it will nevertheless not be out of place for me to naiTate a few little incidents as they came before my notice. First and foremost ther(> was our noble shij) lising and failing gi-acefully over the bosom of the mighty, dark green, magnificent, mysterious, rolling ocean. The ocean ! boundless — sublime ; with its dark heaving waves and white crests dancing, and its world of hidden nature beneath ! 'Tis a glorious TIIK VOYAGK OUT. 3 sight, and full of sentiment, hut Bomchow I have, like many others, never heen ahlc to realize the beauty and the {grandeur of the Rcene for at least the first day of the voyage. This has doubtless been owing to the pitched battle that is geniiviUy fought at starting between myself and the " anti- bilious " ocean. This over, that is, when the victory is mine, I do enjoy "a life on the oecan wave," and rejoice in the unreserved companionship with the grand and noble nature of the ** open sea." The ocean is unquestionably suggestive of much poetry, but the practical prose fact of going to sea contrasts strangely mth it. There is the strong, insinuating combination of gi'ease, onions, and hot victuals floating invisibly around, sadly tending to disgust one •with very existence 'ere an hour has been passed on board the steam ship. Oh, how gradually, peculiarly, and inexplicably do(>s the indescribable sensation of sea-sickness seizes upon you, which soon causes the sight, taste, and suk'U of everything to be regarded with inexpressible loathing. One of our passengers, a Yankee, seemed th(; voiy impersonation of ^vretchedness. He suifered from the dire malady daring the entire passage, and in his sickness and utter misery eked out his maritime; existence almost wholly by suction. Oranges, lemonade, a little fruit, and occasionally a biscuit — such was his only fare. The day before we entered Halifax he assured mc he had not tasted meat since 4 THK VOYAOi; OUT. lie canio on hoard till tlien. Poor fellow, I pitied hira in his sore distress ; to him a trip across the Atlantic could not certainly be attended with cither comfort or pleasure. Next I will mention the pleasure I derived in findinp: on hoard a friend of mine, Captain B , who, during the voyage, was indeed the life and soul of our company, the mainspring of all the plans and aiTangcmcnts for the general amusement of the passengers, the able director of all our musical soirees and other eon^dvial meetings ; and really, at the conclusion of our voyage, there was but oij(! juutual regTct at parting. The passengers, generally speaking, were all pleasant and agreeable, and though amongst them one had attained the mar- vellous height of nearly seven feet, and readily acquired the gi'otesque sobriquet of "Tom Thumb," he was not above mingling in every freak of fun and good humour. He was a hearty fellow, and an universal favourite. During the day the hunicane deck or " gridiron," as it is humourously called, was resorted to by thoso amongst us Avho, though not feeling quite thcra- sclvcs, and not able therefore to take part in the ST)orts going on upon deck, were so far convalescent as to loathe the confined air of their cabins. Now the " gridiron " is a square box-like struc- ture, situated about midships, in close proximity to the engines, and which being closed in at the to]) and sides, affords shelter from the wind, and to a i THE VOYAGE OUT. 5 I. V, great extent, from the hea\7^ seas fihipped in bad weather. In the centre is the capstan, wliich often serves as an impromptu table, and the sides or walls are a series of wooden shutters, which fasten tightly into a groove, so that one or more can readily be removed to suit the weather and the convenience of the passonj4;ers. F:.om this it can easily bo imagined that, at night, the " gridii'on " was the snug retreat of those who indulged in " the fragi-ant weed," or who were disposed to conviviality. For myself, 1 shall always remember with pleasurable feelings those agreeable evenings spent on the bosom of the Atlantic in the gridiron aforesaid. Having digressed for the pui-posc of bringing one or two of my fellow passengers to notice in order to shew how happily we were situated, I will now revert to our first day at sea. Our course was directed to the southward, and at 8 p.m. on the day following our departure from Liverpool we found ourselves abreast of Cape Clear, a distance of 296 knots, having thus far proceeded rapidly on our way. "We continued our course much further to the southward in order to avoid the strong cuiTcnts of the gulf stream, as well as the icebergs which drift away into the ocean at this season of the year, and 80 dangerously interfere with freedom of navigation ; indeed, it is these very icebergs which render the voyage to America at once so hazardous and uncertain. The temperature of the sea was taken daily, and by this means the proximity to icebergs THE VOYAGK OITT. 11 ii r -I is ascertained pretty accurately. My attention was attracted one fine morning to a group of these moun- tains of floating ice stealing majestically yet impercep- tibly along the surface of the water, and inaugurating their approach by an intense cold and frigidity. One of these particularly arrested my attention, from its enormous height and peculiai' formation, having all the appearance of a huge castle. I also viewed it under peculiarly fortunate circumstances, the golden rays of the sun casting a glow over the whole mass, presenting to the eye a most gorgeous spectacle, and eliciting my enthusiastic admiration. As we steamed cautiously by it I took out my pencil and made a humble effort to portray the outlines of this wonderful mass, and I now present my readers; with, sketches of the three different aspects which it presented to my observation. It was reckoned by those experienced on board to be at least 100 feet high, and was as formidable in its extent. .,1^^ ? ! a t Wi The monotony of the voyage is greatly relieved by the frequent meals which are prepared ; there are ffve, viz., breakfast, luncheon, dinner, tea, and TDK VOYAOK OUT. 7' supper, quantum sujicit, quantum lihet, and these occupied not only a large sliurc of our thoughts but a good deal of our time. They were, in fiict, the epochs of each day, and sencd to make time pass agreeably. We had been at sea about a week, when towards evening the clouds lowered, the wind freslieued and howled mourafnlly and suspiciously thronirli the; ship, the glass had been falling all day, and the elementr; plainly portended a stonn. Dui-ing the night it blew a stiff gale, Avhich conliimi-d through- out the following day. Sleep I could m»t ; the wind whistled, the good ship rolled and cn-aked, and groaned in all hci- timbei's, and when struck by the angry waves thure was a pause, and then a vibration was felt throughout her sturdy framework, which raised the suspicion in my mind that the blow had been too violent for her, and that the next would probably take hei- unawares and engulph us all in the raging billows. Ii(!fore morning 1 was w'ell bruised against the hard sides of my berth, and fervently did I pray for the dawn of day and for the abatement of the storm. ' There were many absentees from their accus- tomed places at the table the next day ; the meals were a perfect scramble, and huniedly got through, for, owing to the tossing of the vessel, nothing wold remain stationary on the table. The plates and dishes went through a country dance of their own, and it required great dexterity to mpjntain 8 THE TOVAOE OUT. one's equilibrium. Owing to the rolling of the ship, and the heavy seas which were continually breaking over us, walking on deck was jut of the question. In short, it was a most uncomfortable time, tor though I did not have to retire, as many did, bcifore the unrelenting grasp of the monster seii-sickncHs, I rejoiced when fine weather retiuTied. As the voyage advanced wc found ourselves off tlio Bunks of Newfoundland, with its usual fogs and consivpicnt dangers, and here I had an opportunity of watcliing the system pursued by both French and English in the cod fishery which is so exten- sively carried on by both nations in these regions. "Each, have respective fishing grounds, and though each follow the same plan in taking the fish, the French seek for their prey further from the coast than the English do, and, from what I learned, are more successful in their pursuits, if not in quantity at least in size and quality Here the cold was intense in the extreme, and I found, as I had previously done in the former portion of my journey, that my inexperience of the weather which is to be met with in northern latitudes occasioned me some little discomfort, owing to my not having provided myself with the necessary wraps and outer clothing, Avhich I found the other passengers had wisely done to resist the freezing atmosphere. However, I made the best of my position, having no other choice but to " grin and abide by it." The •lesson being learnt will serve me for a future voyage, L ARRIVAL AT HALIFAX, N. S. 9 or as advice to any of my ftiends who may be proceeding to the same part of the world. It w;\s towai'ds eight o'clock in the evening of the 4th May (and just twelve days from the time of our leaving Liverpool) when we distinguished the lights to guide vessels in their approach to Halifax, and at exactly ten o'clock p.m. we dropped our anchor in Chehuctoo harbour. "We bade fare- well to those passengers proceeding by the * ' Niagara'* on to Boston, and were not long before we dis- embarked, and after a hasty inspection of our luggsige by the officer appointed to that duty, 1 proceeded in a dingy and mournful specimen of a hackney coach to the " Acadian Hotel," my future residence during my stay in Halifax. Halifax, the principal naval station of British North America, is situated in 44" 40" N. latitude, and 63" 38" W. longitude. It is a qnaint old city, unlike any I had ever seen before, and does not certainly present the appearance of having been in English hands for more than a century. It is the capital of the province of Nova Scotia, origmally Acadia, and was formerly a French poscession. The province was called Acadia after a simple un- obtrusive hardy little flower of that name which grows wild in the country — ^the land which inspired Longfellow, who has shed a romantic interest over it ! No8 etiam in Acadia. I knew and felt that I was in Acadia, so I was induced early one fine morning to ramble through the forest in the neigh- 10 HALIFAX. boui'hood of Halifax in search of one of these phmts, now become so v(*r}' rare, and was {:«Tatifie(l by collecting a very- fine speeirai'n in full bloom. The loaf is not unlike that of a small rose plant, whilst the flower itself partakes of the violet species. It is a curious fact associated with this plant that it is not to he found in nny other pro^'ince of the western continent. . The wild flowers of Acadia nrc most abundant, and arc indeed a peculiar feature of the pronnce^ The roadside is fringed with white, i)ink, and puiple, and wild strawberries blossoming, whiten in their staiTy settlements evciy bit of tnrf. Tn the swamps too Is long green needle grass, suniiountcd with snowy tufts; clusters ofpui-ple laurel blossoms as they are called (though not at all like our laurels) shoot up from beside the gi-ey rocks and boulders which lie thirldy tiud loosely about. T\w ditches too are bedecked with numbei-s of pitcher plants whicli, lifting their vcdned and mottled vases brimming with water, inA'ite the woodbirds to drink and perch upon their thick rims. Here, again, is seen the buckthorn in blossom ; thvrc, on llie turf, the scarlet partridge beny-. Small shrubs of wild cherry trees also abound, and beneath shining tropical-looking leaves the fragrant may-flower modestly hides ; and meadow-sweet, not less fra- grant because less beautiful, pours its aroma into the fresh air. And above all and around all are the evergreens, the murmuring pines and the • HALIFAX. 11 'l hemlocks, this rumpikcs, the giey-beai-ds of the forest primcDvul, and the spicy breuth of resinous balsams. This is Acadia ! •• This is Arcadia— this the land, That weary souls have sighed for ; rpi.tr. :« k....^Ai^ «t.i.. 4i... i»_.i Heroic souls ) are died for ; Yet, strange to tell, this itromi^ied land Has never been applied for ! " But to resume my narrative, ^ovu Scotia con- tinued in the hands of the Fren-h until the year 1713, when it was ceded to the English by one of the stipulations of the treaty of Utrecht. From this date little or no progress had been made in the settlement of that part of it now known as Nova Scotia ; neglect and indificrence seem t6 have been manifested by the home government towards the colony, and gave rise to the natural inference by the French that England was cither unaware of the real value of her new possession, or, if alive to its importance, did not exhibit any interest in retaining it. Accordingly they resolved to regain it by clever diplomacy, ofttimes superior to physical force. Their tii-st step was to assert with boldness and pertinacity that "Acadia" comprised the peninsula only, and that the remainder of the territory across the bay of Fundy was still their possession.* This • Reference to the map will show the reader that the Bay of Fundy almost disconnects the province of Nova Scotia from that now known as NeAv Brunswick. 18 OALIFAX. dexterous man(BU\Tc, however, did not succeed, for the people settled in MassuchuHsets took alarm at this unexpected claim, and at once urged the attention of the mother countiy to the matter, pointing out that its admission would supply the French with a formidahle frontier, and would be productive of disastrous results to the peace and safety of the British North American possessions. This earnest and well-timed remonstrance roused the English government from its apathy and stimu- lated it to action, for it appears that plans wen* immediately devised for ** confiiining and extending " the dominion of the Crown of England in Acadia, " by constituting communities, diffusing the benefits " of population, and improving the fisheries on the " coast," and submitted to the president of the " Board of Trade and Plantations." This function- ary was that acute statesman the Earl of Halifax, who ardently approved of the scheme, and obtained the sanction of the legislature for its developement. Public notices were issued stating that encourage- ment would be given to all officers and private Boldiors of the army to settle in Nova Scotia. Now as several thousands of troops had been but recently disembodied from the standing army, the invitation was readily accepted it appears by 3760 persons, who, with their families were entered for embarka- tion, and the House of Commons voted the mu- luficent sum of forty thousand pounds to defray the expences of their emigration. N IIALIPAX. 13 The Honourable Edwanl Comwallis was appointod (iovoraor of the colony, and accompanied the expedition, which took its doparturo in May 1749, and after a voyago of about six weeks arrived in Chebuctoo Harhonr.* It can readily bo imagined that nature in her noblest asjxH't was hero presented to the eye. The shores of th(5 capacious harbour were covered with the dark ricli verdure of the spruce and the fir, interspersed with the lighter and more attractive foliages of the larch, the maple, and the beech, thus completely concealing from view the huge masses of grimite which were strewed over the soil, and which proved idmost insumiountable obstacles to the cultivation of the land. Upon landing, the important question was dis- cussed as to the most elegiblc site for founding a town, and as the spot first selected turned out unsuitable, that now kno^v^l as Halifax was ulti- mately determined upon. It was named Halifax in honor of the noble Earl under whose auspices it may be said the expedition was fitted out. Previously to the landing of the new-comers, the (iovemor deemed it proper to organize a civil eouncil, and, under his nomination, six members of His ^Majesty's Council for the Province of Nova Scotia were appointed. • The old chronicle says the colony was founded on the 8th day of June, 1749, and is considered the natal day of Halii*i.K. 14 I? A 1,1 FAX. Tho prospects of the in( xpcricTirid ciiiijj^iiini wovv not of tho mont clu'i'iinp; niitiirc, tliou^h lure indeed wuH "the forest pnnueval, the niunnurin^ ])ines and the liemloeks " en()U};li to arouse tlie most Hunpuine expeetutions, yet, underneath tliis uiuhra- p;eou.s eimopy, as we have already shewn, hiy liidden the source of bitter disappointment, h<'ij,'htened because of their sudden transition from a hmd populous and highly cultivated — alike the abode of wealth and civilization. Tlui reader ^vill have obscTved that the expi'dition reached its destination in the height of summer, and although it was supplied with pro\isions sufficient to sustain them for several months, it behoved the emigi'ants to use overj' exertion to protect themselves from the severity of the approachinj; winter. This was accomplished by the ti'cction of wood(^n huts and the enclosing of the settlement. At this time there were, inclusive of soldiers, nearly five thousand souls within the palisade. Having so far attempted a brief 'account of the foundation of the settlement, I will ])roce(Hl to notice more especially the (»ity of Halifax, its harbour, and surrounding sceneiy. Tlu' streets are all formed at right angles, the principal one running north and south of the town, whilst the houses are mostly of wood, and the churches are ])rineipally built of the same material, the appc^intncc of which at once attracts the attention of the stranger. The streets generally arc paved -with wood planlvs with I riAMKAX. 1.5 wood kirbs, wliilc soim^ arr left mtiivly in thtir pnmitivc statf. .lust t'uncy a wood pavrmi-nt! The popJiliition in computed at .')(),00(), or thcro- abouts, and it is u inarkablo that littk'or no incroasi^ has taken ])hi('«' tbi* the past lialf rcntury, which is uccountcd for by tlie absencr of that tido of cuiij^ra- tion which flows into other part.s of tlie world, there ])eing in this locality no attraiition for the emigrant, or at present any liighway to the inland states. Tlie inha])itants may hv di>ided into thrco ('losses ; Hrst, thoao of Irish and Scotch descent ; secondly, those of Germfin and Dutch extraction (the offshoots of the original settlers) ; and, thirdly, the Negroes, which latter ar(» either runaway slaves or their offspring. Tliese latter occupy a position nt the extreme norih of the town, which is com- monly designated the Black Settlement, and have their o\mi distinct places of worship and sable pastors. The city and its suburbs extend over two miles in length, north and south, whilst it is barely half a mile in width at any point. By the original plan for the formation of the streets there were eight, of which two only reached the southern and three the northern extremities of the town ; fifteen others intersected these at right angles. Within the last fifteen or t^\ iiity years others have been added from time to time by private individuals, in the division, subdivision, and sale of land lying outside the town. Halifax being a military station, one of the mobt important features of the place is the citadel, which. 16 HALIFAa. 1 '\ is situated at the summit of a hill upwards of 250 feet above the level of the sea, ov(!rlooking: and comm.'mding the entire town, its harbour, and the country for miles around. Besides the barracsks in the citadel therr ire otlw*rs on the brow of the hill, not far from the citadel, built of wood, but are in a very dilapidated condition, ha^'ing, as I was informed, been condemned for the past twenty years ! There; iiiv^ however, substantial stone barracks in course of erection at the north end of the town, and are nearly ready for the reception of troops, but not certainly before they are i('(|uired. ■ Pleasantly situated at the south end of the city is (xovemment House. It is constructed of dark brown freestone, and tiiough it is a substantial comfortable lookinp; edifice, it conveys no impression of architectural effect or beauty, Nevertheless, confiidering the small pecuniary means at the command of tlui province at the time its erection was undei-takeu, it may be viewed as a very respectable effort. ' The next building in Halifax wortliy of notice is the *' Province House," or House of Parliament for Nova 8cotia, one of the handsomest structunjs in Britisli North America. It is composed of similar material as (Jovemment House, and stands on a 8(piare in the very heart of the city, enclosed by a hand.some iron railing, and l)oasts a stately and elaborately ornamental frontage on two of the principal streets of the city. Within its walls are I \. HALIFAX. 17 I offices set apart for the transaction ol" all the judiciul and official business of the province, besides the Halls of the Legislative Council and Assembly, and apartments for the occasional accommodation of the Supreme Court of Judicature. Tlie Hall of the Legislative Coimcil is decorattsd with some very handsome portraits of rtv^ent Sovereigns of Great liritain, tog(^tiier witli one, recrently presented, of Judge lEaliburtou, now Sir ]]. Ilaliburton, a man who lias not only slied lustre upon his profession, but is worthy to l>e classed ■\\ith such names as Williams, of Kars, and Inglis, of Lucknow, who are also natives of the province. The dimensions of the building arc 11-5 feet long, 70 feet Avide, and 42 feet high. Dalhousio College, which occupies tho entire northern extremity of the Grand Parade is constructed of freestone ; the eastern end of the basement story being appropriated to the use of the Post Office Depart- ment. I cannot say that it is much other than a dingy unsightly edifice. The Halifax Mechanics* Institute, by the kind permission of the governors of the college, has long used a portion of the second story of the building for their valuable and useful operations. There is a small museum attached to the institute, in which are deposited a tooth and one of the thigh bones of a " Mastodon," Ibund by ah Indian in a shallow stream which empties itself into Brasdaw Lake, iu thc^ island of Cape Breton. This is not only a very curious but a rare specimen, SIR mmm. i 18 HALIFAX. It (I and is one of the iiiimy noraprised in the small but valnublo collection. The City ^larket is an un- pretending brick building, not at all well contrived for tht! convenience of the public. For instance, tliere is no protection to the market women and their wares from the annoyance of quassels of the largest size; the eastern is naiTOw, and, being obbtructed by a sand-bar, is a\ailable to small vessels only. Opposite the city is George's island, which, being regularly fortified, forais, with the citadel, one of the chief defences of the place. There is also the pleasant little; ^'illage of Dartmouth, situate opposite to Halifax on the other side of the harbour, with which there is communication by means of two steam floating bridges, which ply regularly across from tht? north and south ferries. It is a fashionable resort of th(; Halifax people, there being in the vicinity some very pleasant walks. In a commercial point of view, Halifax has veiy little to boast of, though from its position as a port it is in my humble opinion destined in a short time to become a great conunercial mart, and the high- road to our Canadian possessions. Looking at the map I was much struck with the advantages that of necessity must have accrued to its commerce if years ago the " blue noses " had constructed a line of railway direct to Quebec, for from the proximity of Halifax to England as compared with any port in the United States, it does not require \ ■ 22 HALIFAX. auy iiiiKnint of slircwdiioss to tloteet that as u con- 8C(iut']i(i' of this, coupled with the facilities of inland 4 omiuunication by rail, the; whole trade of Canada would flow throiip;h Halifax instead of as at present l;)einji very nearly monopolised Ly our Yankee aeighbours. if ray prognostication respecting Halifax be not realised, it will be simply owing to the lethargy of the ** Ilalligonians," as they call themselves ; but in Halifax I observed that though its inhabitants are industrious and careful as a people, with plenty of capital, they are utterly wanting in enterprise. The responsibility of laying down lines of railway must not be thrown entirely upon governmeRfc, because it is (icrtainly the duty and the interest of the inhabitants to bring before the legislature the advantages, commercial or other- wise, that would arise from their scheme being sanctioned. It has been the case with all railroads in the United Kingdom, that they have been planned, brought before the House of Commons, and eventually carried out by private enterprise. Though the !Nova 8cotians have undoubtedly lost a commercial revenue by inattention to their own interests in this respect, let me hope that they will not fail to cany out the line of railroad I have suggested before the opportunity be irretrievably lost. !Nova Scotia is di^ided into 18 counties, named (in worthy imitation) after counties or cities in old England. These counties send each two, three, I ir.VLIPAA. 2S four, or five mem1»Pi's to represent thoin in the House of Assembly, which consists of 54 iii embers, elected every four years, on tlie piinciple of utiiversal suffrage. I may mention, en p(fs.sanf, that this mode of election is but of recent introduction amongst them, and as I happened whilst at Halifax to witness the spectacle of u general election, it will perhaps be as well if I say a few words on the practical working of this measure. Bcsfore doing so I Avill explain that the political affairs of the province are delegated to the legislative council, composed of 22 members, and the house of assembly before referred to. The members of the legislative council are styled "honourable" by courtesy, a title retained by them during life. Now touching universal or manhood suffrage, a question the advisability of which is so much agitated at home by a certain class of politicians, T do not hesitate to aver that I never viewed it in a favourable light, because it throws into the hands of the majority — the lower classes — a preponderating influence which, whilst it is unfair to the minority, the possessors of every description of proj)erty, may be used to over- throw the most useful measures, and to favour intrigue of the most venal nature, this, be it remembered, at the expense of tliose most interested in the prosperity of the country. Nevertlu'less, not having before had an opportunity of seeing universal suffrage practically developed, I felt considerable interest in watching narrowly the. propross of the 24 HALIFAX. election, booausi! it would uttbitl hk; a chance of testing whether the opinion 1 had formed was erroneous or not. The only qualifications necessary to entitle on(? to a vote are twenty-one years of age (no (lualification at all), and a residence of five years in th(( province, either of which are t;asily evaded, because the fraud is difficult and troublesome to detect. During the day 1 visited, in company with a ft'iend, eveiy polling place in the city, and I am sure that numbers of youths (whose boyish appearance clearly indicated that they had not attained the age of twenty-one) were allowed to vote with impunity. Again, I was assured by inhabitants of the place who were in a position to know, that many voted not only as they should have done, at one booth, but again recorded their vote in another district. Though doubtless there are other means of successfully practising deception, I think I have clearly shewn the gross abuses of a system which I never wish to see introduced at home. The entire population of Nova Scotia is about 224,000 ; of this number about 80,000 are Roman catholics Bidding adieu to mine host of the Acadian, I left Halifax, and proceeded to Windsor, a pretty little town situate at the confluence of the rivers St. Croix and Avon, and distant from Halifax 45 miles. The communication is by railway, though the rate of travelling (15 miles an hour, including stoppageei) is by no means satisfactory to one accustomed to the ' ^ !| JOUU^KY TO WINDSOL. £0 trains at home. The carriages on this line 1 observed were constructed in the United States. Why could they not be made in Nova Scotia ? The plain answer is because the people in that province (as I have before hinted) have not the energy and enterprise to make for themselves what is so readily obtainable from their cousins of the stars and stripes. These carriages are entered at the two ends, as in Germany, with a walk in the centre and seats on either side. The guard of the train has access to all the carriages by merely stepping from one to the other, and is so enabled to announce the different stations, and to collect the tickets &c. Wood is used as fuel for the engine, and con- siderable delay is occasioned by the stoppages necessary to take in supplies, the tender, of course, not being of a size to carry fuel for the entire journey. The route to Windsor runs through dense forests of fur, spruce, and larch, so that after the eye has rested a short time upon the unchanging aspect, the scenery becomes monotonous, and the journey tedious enough, at least I found it so. It is not until within a few miles of Windsor that we emerge from the forest, when the country opens out, and the scenery around is exceedingly pretty, and forcibly reminded me of England. The country in the vicinity of Windsor is highly favourable to agricultural pursuits, and is of an undulating character. There are several large farms in the neighbourhood, and limestone is found in great 26 jouRXFnr TO windsob. ubiindancc, and IbrmH tho prinoipal oxport of the place. Judge Hiilil)urton's estate, whi(^h lien u short di8taii(;e from the town, is viHit(^d by all tourists and travellers, and I eonsidcir the time well spent. Though by no means a large domain, here mossy banks with wild strawbemes, undulating hills, and several pretty little lakes are met with ; indeed, closed in as it is from the outer world, nature having embellished it in her best style, one could rest contented with its charms, forgetful of the strifes and contests inseparable to life. It was lately sold by its noble o^\uer for, as 1 was infonned, the very moderate sum of 1700/. sterling. T rested at Windsor for the night, and on the following morning took my departurt> by the steamer across the Bay of Fundy, for St. John's, New Brunswick. The scenerj' on either side of the bay partakes of the same chai'acttT, consisting almost entirely of woodland nmning down to the water's edge, the habitations being but few and far between.. The journey nevertheless is a pleasant one, and occupies about nine hours. St. John's is pleasantly situated on the slope of a hill at the mouth of the St. John river, and presents to the stranger a busy and imposing aspect. You at once detect an air of bustle and an appearance of prosperity about the place which strongly contrasts with Halifax. On the opposite side of the river, and forming part of the city, is Carleton, the com- munication with which is by means of a steamboat N M. JOHN V, y. u. 27 I ferrj'. In cons(M|Uc'nco of the strong ouiTi^nt holow tho rapids of tlu' St. John livt']' tht; forr}' boat has Homt! (lifliculty in croH.sinjj;, and is obliged to make a dotour for some considcrabU? distance in order to reach the landing placi! on the opposite side. The population of 8t. John's is estimated at .35,000, but doubtless at the present time there is an exeess over this number of several thousands, emigration liaving done much towards tliis end. Here I found l)oth capital imd enterprise. There is a large body of nicrchants, bankers, shipowners, shipbuilders, militaiy men, and luwj'ers. The principal trade is in shipbuilding and lumbt-r, and some noble specimens of naval architecture, as is well knoAvn, arc laimehed at this port. The finer class of vessels are used in the first instance for tho transport of lumber to Liverpool, and the other large seaports of England, after which they are coppered and fitted up, and become the swiftest and most commodious of emigrant vessels. I saw several of the class to which I have referred in progress of building. The streets of the town are regularly formed and well paved, and the houses substantially built. There is an exchange, also reading rooms, good hotels (the principal of which is the Waverley), numerous places of worship, and indeed every comfort and convenience for the inhabitants, both for business and other requirements. * * The Square,'* situated at the top of the mtdn street, is the great promenade, being tastefully laid out, and interspersed 28 HT. john'h, n. n. with HJ'atfl, and in tho ccntro is a fountain, which, thougli not extensive or grand, is neat and in good taste, forming a verj' pleasing feature of th(5 place. Th(Te is u large bell suspended in a eonspiruous part of the town, which is used f<»r the pui-pose of arousing the inhabitants in case of fire. I witnessed sevtTal turn-outs of the fire brigade upon false alarms, puri)08ely given, with a view to effect expedition and efficiency, and it is astonishing the promptitud(i with which the call is answered and the entire town traversed. One night, or rather one morning (for I found by my watch that it was dose upon two o'clock) I was aroused by the dull heavy tone of the alarm bell, and from my window witnessed the burning of three fires in different parts of the town. The bell did not cease tolling until the fires were extinguished, and the inhabitants, if they were like myself, were precluded from sleep during this time. There is a suspension bridge thrown across the rapids of the St. John river, which is prettily designed and well constructed ; it was erected in 1852, at the cost of 20,000^. sterling. On a commanding hill at Carleton is a large lunatic asylum, built of red bricks ; and I was sorry to hear that lunacy prevails here to a serf 3ns extent. I visited the loopholed block-housi s, which are of stone, rudely yet strongly built, and erected on elevated positions by the early settlers as places of defence and rendezvous against the Indians. These are interesting on this acconnt, hearing ST. JOHN llIVKIl, N.n. 29 I'vidcncr us tlu'V do of iiumy disustroMs l»yogono stnijjglcs. 1 took my depart iin* I'roiu St. John's, and i)ro- <5Codt'd l>y steamer to Fr("(lt'ri{;t()n, np the St. John river. The distance! is ahont H't miles, whicli we acoomplishod in nin<' hours. The St. Jolm river is a majestic strwim. It is about 300 mih'S long, and on an average one-third of a milt! wide; it is navi;?able for crafts of considcTahle burthen as far as tht! (Jraiid Falls, or su;y a distunct' of 200 miU'S fr(»ni, St. John's. As it reaclu^s th(! American and Cantidian boundaries, at a place (jailed St. Francis, it distribut(\s itself into various little tributaries, which form numerous miniature lakes, and are extreraelv beautiful. The steamer makes various stoppages on the road to Fnnlcricton, but as thero arc no piers or proper landing places, the passengers and merchandize! have to be conveyed to and from the shore in small boats. I was much amused with a party of North American Indiars whom we took on board during our passage. Thoy were the first I had seen, and consisted principally of women and girls, who, though they exhibited a slight degree of shyness towards the Europeans, seemed perfectly happy amongst themselves. Theii* countenances generally were verj- pleasing, nor was there that repugnance in the features of any of them which I had expected to find. They all seated themselves in a group, and observing that I was enjoying a pipe one of them approached mc, and making a 30 FIIEDEEICTOX. i: I I gesture towaj-di!; my pipe and his own rude sub- stitute, gav! unmistakcable signs that he was begging for some tobacco. I gladly gave hira sufficient for several pipes, and he walked off highly delight^id. I saw that he distributed tho weed amongst his companions, and soon men, women, and children (who all appear to smoke) were testing its (|ualitics. I believe they generally smoke the bark of the willow tree, which they prepai'e for the . purpose. I cannot however speak of its merits, as I did rot care to indulge in a trial of it. The banks of the St. John river are Ioav and flat, the headland seldom coming to the river, yot the scenery behind is occasionally hilly and picturesque. J^umeious farms and several churches arc to be seen on either shore, and the J timbering trade is briskly carried on, 80 that the passage up the St. John river on a fine day is a very pleasant trip, I assure you. Fredericton, though the seat of government for ^N^cw Brunswick, is indeed a small place, exceedingly i^uiet, and prettily situated on the banks of the river. The streets are planned to intersect each other at right angles, but very few of them exhibit signs of completion. The province house, government house, the cathedral, the barracks, and one good hotel arc the principal buildings, and these are but of moderate pretensions. My attention was attracted to one of the church steeples, on the pinnacle of which I observed a gilt hand with the dexter finger pointing towards heaven — a very good idea for the I-REDERICTON. 31 finish of a cuiirch steeple, as I thought, — hotter at any rate than the silly devices of crowing cocks or ininning foxes which decorate our steeples at home. There are a few shops in Fredericton, mostly for the sale of ordinary apparel, and the common neces- saries of life, whilst the inhabitants thc^iselves arc chiefly engaged in the lumber trade, which appears to he the staple commodity of the district. On tho opposite shore to Fredericton there is an Indian encampment, which of course I crossed over to see. I found these people li'sdng in mud huts, and they seemed very happy and comfortable. They do not quarrel with their lot, and are neither envious nor malicious, but of simple and industrious habits. They all appear to partake of the same physiognomy, all ha\'inghigh cheekbones and dark lozenge-shaped eyes, and their compiexion is of a light copper color. Their principal occupation seems to bo making shoes, canoes, working in beads, &c., in all of which they exhibit considerable ingenuity and skill. Most of them speak a little English, and now pretty freely adopt the English dress, both male and female, in short they make frequent visits to tho > opposite shore, and are fast drifting into a state of civilization. The province of 15'ew Brunswick is under ;t Lieutenant-Governor and Legislative Council con- sisting of twenty-three members, with a ^piouse of Assembly comprised of forty-one members, elected, as in ^ova Scotia, every four years. The session mami 32 JOUJiNEV TO CANADA. eommencoH in Fobruaiy, and generally lasts about two months, tho proceeding's of which arc uninterest- inja; to any but colonists. My route now lay towards Canada, to accomplish whicli it was necessary forme to return to St. John'f', from which I took my departure by the steamer for Portland, state of Maine. The passage occupied a day and one night, and though tho steamer, Avhioli was built on the American plan, was the most comfortable I had yet been in, the trip was anything but agreeable, the weather being cold and boisterous. On embarking I Avas glad to recognize an old face in tho person of Mr. I , whose acquaintance I formed whilst staying at the Acadian Hotel, in Halifax, and who w.'is now returning to " the States." His company was always agreeable, but it was particularly so at this unexpected meeting. We talked of om- friends in Halifax, and of Halifax news, and so time passed pleasantly along to our mutual comfort. Wc halted for a hour and a half at a small village called Eastport, a miserable little place which marks the boundary line between the United Stat(s and New Brunswick. It is situated on Moose Island, and connected by a bridge of boats with the mainland. Mr. I informed me it was remarkable as having been captured by the British dming the war of 1812, and held by them for a year or two after the conclusion of peace under the pretext of its being within the limits of New Brunswick. Here it was that I first placed my i JOllBNET TO CANADA. 33 feet upon American soil, and on my mentioning the fact to my friend, he, as a citizen, gave me a right hearty welcome to the land of stars and stripes ; a compliment I acknowledged, and added that I hoped honest rivalry and friendship would for ever exist between the two countries. Proceeding on our journey we found our numbers had increased, for a good many passengers were taken on board at Eastport, the little village just referred to. A lively and animated conversation soon ensued amongst the male jjortion, and from it I found that I was now in company of the pure American, the language being unmistakeable. We reached Port- land at 5-30 a.m. on the day following our departure from St. John's. The morning was clear and fine, which was advantageous for a good view of the city as we approached it. Being built partially on rising ground it looks well from the sea, and the quiet of the yet slumbciing city awakened an additional interest in it. 3Iy stay being short, I lost no time in getting breakfast, and then took a ramble through the town. It is a very clean and delightfully situated place. The houses are all well built, and the shops tastefully laid out. There are also streets i>f pretty detached and semi-detached villas, which invariably present a clear appearance and sharp outline, forcibly reminding one of the idea conveyed by a celebrated modem English author that houses in *'the states" have all the appearance of being newly erected, and present that freshness which is 1 1 S4 rORTLANP, N. n. {\l !' il given to SI stage scene by the strong liglit cast npon it. The streets arc omaraentecl and shaded on anther side by rows of trees planted close to the pavement, afcer the Parisian style, and which, being at the time I saw them in full blossom, imparted tc the city a freshness and ga'cty, and had a very good effect. From the hill called Mount Joy, in the suburbs of Portland (where stands the obser- vatory) a magnificent view is obtained. It over- looks Casco Bay, with its numerous cluster of little islands, which, dotting its surface, break the monotony of the sc '"'^w, and render it extremely pictures(][ue. The obsc i;ory is 82 feet high, and 226 feet above the sea level. The harbour of Portland is completely landlocked, and possesses the advantage of being deep, and capacious, and safe. Here the " Great Eastern" might safely run along- side a wharf and discharge whatever might be her cargo ; indeed, every preparation had long since been made in expectation of her visit, for on entering the harbour two sheds or warehouses of great length were pointed out to me as having been built expressly for the reception of her freight. Let me trust that the hopes thus raised may not be disappointed, and th^t, notwithstanding the difficulties which now surround her, English enter- prise and energy may finally triumph, and be rewarded with that success whicb the extent of the undertaking deserves. I am sadly afraid, iowevcr, that her immense size, and her consequent PORTLAND, N. U. 9fi enormous working expenses, will be a heavy draw- back to her prosperity. Her gigantic propoi-tions preclude her from most ports, and the vast freight or number of passengers she requires to pay seem to me to foreshadow a not very bright career for her. Still, it would be a thousand pities that so much talent, such surpassing ingenuity, labour, courage, imd capital should not ultimately result in a success. Had the time permitted I should like to have made a longer stay at Portland, for I was favourably impressed with the place and its inhabitants. The weather was, as I have said, remarkably line aud clear, and as the day advanced, the sun shone foilh in all his majesty, which heightened the chterfulnc ps of the scene, and had a most exhilarating effect upon myself, for up to this point I had experienced nothing but cold and rain. It was a pleasant skip from winter to summer. The good taste displayed in dress by both male and female poi-tions of the community is remarkable, in shoi"t, I met with notliing to ec^ual it dming the subsequent portion of my jomney, except at New York. Portland being in the state of Maine, the notorious liquor law, of wliieli eveiy one has heard, is in force, that is theordicaUj/^ but not practically, for there is uo difficulty in obtaining imy of the liquors the sale of wliich the law is intended to suppress. 2^ow aud then an onslaught is made by the supervisors on same unfortunate retailer, but as his stores in bulk are carefully concealed J)clow he can afford to ^ u rOllTLAJTD, N. IJ. openly lisk the pimislimcnt inflicted by the seizure and los.s of his little; stock exposed for sale in the "bar. The population of Portland is about 25,000, ■which, with its commerce, is rapidly increasing. The tirand Trunk llailway of Canada mns into Portland, passinj^ through the states of Maine, New llanipshiro, and Vcnnont, and steam ships from England come to Poi-tland during the winter months when the St. Lawrence is frozen over. It is there- fore' a place of considerable importance. But with respect to the Grand Trunk llailway, I will contend that the company should have laid it through to Halifax (as hinted at before), thus giving oui* own pro^•inccs the l.tnefit arising from commerce and rapid intercommunication. Moreover, Halifax, being the nc^arest port of the whole continent to England, it is obvious that it could successfully compete with I'oi-tland or any other American city for communica- tion with this country. The railway journey to Quebec is a long one — ^thc dis-tance 310 miles. Leaving Portland at 1 "45 p.m. the train proceeded, passing through rich and varied scenery, till we reached at nightfall a station called Island Poud, a lew miles on the States' side of the boundaiy line, and verj' delightfully situate close to the White Mountains, of which a very fine view i» obtained. Here the guard informed us wc were to sleep for the night, at the hotel adjoining the line, imd at 8 • 30 the next morning the train would again be in readiness. I was not aware of this detention, \ - JOrRNEY TO QUKUKC. 37 but it was an agreeable break in the journey, and enabled me to get a comfortable night's nst, as well as to indulge myself with an early morning view of the aforesaid AVTiitc Mountains of Vermont. The morning was fine and bracing, and I sallied out at a little after six to the top of a neighbouiing hill to enjoy the view. I was well repaid for my ramble. Though the mountains were farther off than I liad expectf'd still there they were, rearing theii- lofty summits grandly before me and impressing the mind. To be alone in such a spot is glorious solitude, and to freely wander over such a district is an indescribable pleasure. To return to our journey ; after a substantial breakfast we Avere once more on our way for Quebec. The rate of travelling on the Grand Trunk line averaged 21^ miles per hour, a result which rather astonished me, as I had always been given to understand that the speed of railway trains in America was much greater than in England, an idea which was dispelled by my ride to Quebec as well as by my subsequent experience. It has 858 miles of rails, and is therefore the longest railway in the world. That portion of it which mns from the American boundary to Portland has been leasee! to the Grand Trunk Kailway Company for ninety- nine years. There is nothing very note- worthy or varied in the scenery from Island Pond to Quebec ; mountains and dense forests, hills and forests, forests and hills, still on we go; such is the country through which we pass the whole way, realising as it were that 38 JOUllXKY TO QUEBEC. wo were now in woody Canada. These vast forests viv "being rapidly cleared hy the industrious linnd of man, though for many miles together they reach eloso to the margin of tho railway on either side. " Clearing an estate," as the term is, is heavy work, requiring patience and great labour. The trees, which arc of all sizes, and grow thickly together, arc felled at the distance of about two feet from the ground, and these snags or stumps arc allowed to rc>main until they are burnt do-Nvnwards to the very root. In the meanwhile the emigrant chops his timber, and builds his house of logs of wood, which is called a shanty. The grain is sewn and cultiva- tion is caiiiod on regardless of the stumps of trees -with which the field is studded. Indeed, it occupies years to thoroughly rid the land of these obstacles. The forest land, when cleared, is rich and generous, and generally veiy remunerative to the grower. In short — ** A man is a man, if he's willing to toil, And the humblest may gather the fruits of the soil." As it may be important to some to know under what cii'cumstanccs and upon what advantageous terms free grants of land arc made to the emigrant by the Canadian government, I append the following from the " Canadian News^^* which gives all necessary infoimation, and may be relied on : — The Fbee Gbants or L&nd im Canada. The site of the free grants of land which the Canadian Oovemment are now offering for settlement is to the- ' FKKE OBANTH OF L\XO. west of tlio Ottawa river, aud arc accesHible cither from that river ut •' Bonne Chore Point," 50 miles above Ottnw City, from Napanee, a station of the Grand Trunk Railway, 36 miles west of Kingston, and from Belleville (marked on the map B'ville), 21 miles west of Napanee. Three main roads are now in couriie of construction, at the cost of the Government, through these districts, and it is on these roads that the free grunts are given. The first of these i» called the " Ottawa and Opeonaga Road " (accessible from Bonne Chere Point, on the Ottawa). The local Govern- ment a^ent for the lands on tliis road is Mr. J. P. French. He resides at Mount St. Patrick, county of Renfrew. The second is tlie " Addington Road " (accessible from Napanee)* The Government agent for this district is Mr. Perry, whose residence i> at the village of Flint Mills, county of Adding- ton. The third is the " Hastings Road " (accessible front Belleville). Tlie Government agent here is Mr. W. P. Hayes, who resides at Hastings, in the county of that name. These lands are equal to any in the whole province for farming purposes. They are capable of producing abundant crops of winter wheat of excellent quality and full weight, add also first-rate crops of every other description of farm produce, such as are grown in the best and longest culti- vated districts in that part of the country. When fully populated they will be capable of sustaining in comfort and happiness eight milliona of people. Water for domestic use is everywhere abundant, and there are besides numerous streams and fulls of water capable of being used for manut'u(;txring purposes. Each grant is for 100 acres, for which application must be made to the local agents named above, who are required by the Government to furnish tlie fullest information to aU parties applying for it. The intending settler may be a native of any country, but he must be at least eighteen years of age. He is required to take possession of the land • I 40 VKKV. OUANTS OF LAND. allottoil to liiin within one month, an*l to build a liouse (at least 20 by 1 H foot). He rnuHt put into a state of cultivation at least twelve acres of his land in the course of four years, as well as reside on the lot during that period. The Government having; nmdo the ronds the settlers have to keep them in repair. These several conditions being complied with, the settler will receive from the Government, free of all cost, the title deeds of his jjroperty. If a faniilj' compriKin;,' several settlers, entitled to lands, prefer to live ^n a Hinj,'le lot, the Government accords pei'mission to do 80, provided that the condition of bringing twelve acres of land into cultivation on each lot within four years be com- plied with. Failure to perform the foregoing requirements of the Government will cause the immediate loss of the assigned lot of laud. Their fultilment puts the holder in possession of u freehold estate, over which ho and his family can ever afterwards exercise the fullest rights of property Mithout further restriction or condition of any sort. According to the ratio of progress which Canada has made dm'ing the last ten years, the value of land, on an average, doubles within that period. This enhanced value, it should be remembered, is acquired irrespective of any improvements made by settlors. In many counties its value has increased /y boors when so employed. The roof is covered with bark, 42 FKKK UU.VNTH OF LAND. (l and wlieo tho spaces between the logs ore fUleJ in with* cUy, and tho whole white>wnHhod, the emigrant has tw- dwelling ({uite as warm and comfurtable as a stone or lirick house. A workman can fell and " chop " the trees on an KngliHh< acre of lund into logs of from twelve to fifteen feot in- length in about eiKht days. A couple of days and a yoke of ' oxen, together with five men, arn required fur piling the logs, HO that they may be all burned at once. A day is consumed in this operation, and us soon as the land it» cooled it is fit for its first crop, without any otlier operation.. The ashes must be carefully gathered for disposal, aa explained presently. The first crop (assuming that the settler gets on his land early in June), ou his first cleared [acre, is usually potatoes. The wife ar d children can assist him in the operation of planting them. When this is done tho clearing of the second acre begins, and should be finished in time to plant it also with potatoes. About eight ncrcs can be clenrod by an industrious man by the middle of October. If a maor can afibrd to biiy a potash kettle and coolers (their value i» about i£ll sterling), be can, with very little skill, convert the 480 bushels of ashes which his eight acres have yielded him into three barrels of potash, for which he will receive about £18 sterling. But, as it is probable that he will not be in a condition to purchase these articles, ho must sell his ashes, which will realize him, at 3d. currency per bushel, about £6. On his return fVom lumbering in the spring he can clear- two more acres, giving him ten acres altogether. " In this,"* says Mr. French, *' he may plant three acres of spring wheats five of oats, and two of potatoes." The wheat should realize twelve barrels of flour ; allowing ten barrels for the use of ^ himself and his &mily, he has a surplus of two, which he can dispose of at about M. This sum laid out in pork. lUKK 0IUXT8 OF LAND. 43 wonld, with hiK own pig, give liim m mucTi am he had purchased for tlio flrHt yoar's conHuniption. Ho would t)iu» be Hupplied with the two great items of liis faroilj^'u wants — pork and Hour — fur another year, luuving him tlio value of the Ave acres of oats, which would be worth nt least ^£10. He nhould also have a 8uri)lus on his two crops of potatoes of £20. Deducting from tliese two sums jCIO for the various incidental wants of a family, he has, at the end of two years and a half, a profit of £20 on his capital of .4*40, besides which, if he continue as industrious during his second as his first year, ho will have at least twenty acres of cleared land ready for farming operations in the following spring. The ^20 should, however, be spent in the purchase of a yoke of oxen- and a cow. The third year will, of course, bring much larger profits than the two preceding, and they will enable him to add some slieep, a horse, or even two, as well as some more cattle to his stock. Henceforth ho may truly call himself an independent man. By the end of the year he will cease lo be satisfied with hit log-house. A cottage will spring up, principally built of timber, painted white outside, with green hall door and green verandahs. If the wife has a taste for flowers, these will begin to make their appearance around tlie house, which will be approached from the roadway by a neatly gravelled path. The first constructed bam will no longer serve its purposes — its place is supplied by one of doable the original dimensions ; a cow>house and stable are added, and by the end of the fourth, certainly by the end of the fifth, there will be a large farmyard, as well stocked with cattle, pigs, and poultry, as any comfortable fanner could wish to be possessed of. The foregoing is no imaginary picture. There are thousands of pe**sons in Canada at the present time who arrived there within the last twelve years penniless, and are now the cultivators and owners of cleared farms varying ■■—■IP 44 FREE GRANTS OF LAND. i m I l;l from 50 to 200 acres in extent. Most of them, after «amin^' a few pounds at day labour, settled down in localities which were then the very heart of the untrodden forest, but are now well filled with a population, every member of wliich, with scarcely an exception, is sober, industrious, and thriving. A man, at his first start, must not be deterred by difficul- ties. He is sure to have many of them, but tliere is not one that cannot be surmounted with a good heart and a determination to conquei*. The difiiculty of clearing land is always exaggerated in the minds of those who know nothing about it. Laborious— even painflil — it undoubtedly is at first, but a few days' practice by a healthy man fits him for it, without inconvenience, ever afterwards. No one can prosper if he be not sober. Without sobriety he will not have strength to undergo the fatigues of his daily labours; and, besides, an intemperate man will immediately become a marked one. In the ruml districts total abstinence is the liimost universal practice; and, if the farmers only were to return members to the Legislature of Canada, a Maine Liquor Law would be quickly enacted. A town mechanic does not make a good settler in the forest. His habits and tastes unsuit him for the life, in addition to which he can bring his labour and skill to a better market. He will always be in demand in the towns and cities at a scale of pay about one third more than he received in the old country. Clerks, and all persons accustomed only to situations in offices are likewise unsuited for emigration to the rural districts. I reached Point Levi, opposite Quebec, at 4*20 psa., and at once cix)S8ed the river in the ferry boat which was in waiting for us. ♦ i QUKBKC. 4(^ '• ■ I am now, thoiiglit I, iu Canada, a country I liad much wislic(i to see, and one iu beholding which, I say it advisedly, there can be no disappointment. It is assuredly one of the most important of the English colonies, and perhaps the easiest way of conveying to my readers a correct notion of its size will be by stating that it is nearly three times as large as England, Wales, Scotland, and Ireland. The soil is both rich and fertile, and well repays the labours of the husbandman. The climate, though it embraces the extremes of heat and cold, is never- theless conducive to health and vigour. Its people are haixly, and indulge in the sports of the field and uU manly exercises. For loyalty and patriotism I believe they are not surpassed by any subjects over whom the sceptre of England is swayed, and a most convincing proof of their attachment has recently been afforded in the earnest and respectful manner in which they have solicited Her Majesty to pay them a visit at the opening of the Victoria Bridge, a structure to which I shall hereafter allude. To any one who has ever visited Canada these obsen'a- tions would be unnecessarj', the loyalty and fond- ness of the Canadians for the institutions of tho mother country being apparent the moment the new comer glances around him. Though Columbus discovered the new world in 1492, it was iioi until the year 1534 that Jacques Cartier, an experienced mariner in the service of the King of France, made known the existence of i I i QUEBEC. that portion of the mainland now known as Canada. Ho landed at Stadacona, the name p;ivcn by the natives to what is now termed Quebec, and r'>tumed, without proceeding any further, to report his adventures. The following year he came back and visited Montreal, which was then a verj' considerable native settlement, called '* Hochelaga," and other places. Prom this time till 1629, when Quebec was taken by Admiral Kii'k, Canada remained in the hands of the French, but so little was thought of the conquest that the countiy was returned to France some three years afterwards on very easy terms. This biings us to the period when, the two nations being again at war, the immortal "VVolfe laid siege to Quebec, and by an unparalleled militaiy exploit succeeded in wresting the city once more from the hands of the French. This was in the year 1 759. History has fully recorded the gallant deeds of "Wolfe and the heroic Montcalm, both of whom lost their lives on that " well-fought field." " Military prowess gave them a common death, history a common fame, and posterity a common monument.'* To perpetuate the memoiy of Wolfe a monument has been raised on the plains of Abraham, the scene of the battle, and on the spot where he fell in the moment of victoiy. It is not large or con- spicuous, but plain and unostentatious, the only ornamentation being a helmet and a sword, beneath which is inscribed " Here died Wolfe victorious.''^ There is another column to the joint memories of QUEBEC. 47 Wolfe and Montcalm, I believe, erected duiing the •Govcmor-Geroralship of the Earl of Dalhousie, but this I did not see. Canada was now ceded to Great Britain, and has ever since remained in her hands. It begins on the east at the coast of Labrador, and is bounded at the west by the river Kiministiguia, •near to the head of Lake Superior. Its limit on the ■north is the Hudson's.Bay territory, whilst southerly it has the great lakes, the river St. Lawrence, and "the United States as boundaries. Its length is about 1,600 miles and its breadth 250. Fox about thirty years Canada was known as the province of •^Qucbec, but to facilitate the management of so extensive a country it was deemed advisable to separate it into two sections, the eastern being called Lower and the western Upper Canada. The •provinces, however, under the administration of Lord Sydenham, in 1841 were reunited, and though the limit between the two sections is still acknowledged, •the country is under one govern^ nt and has a eommon treasury. Quebec, in a military point of view, is th( key to Canada, and is one of its principal cities. It is on old fashioned place, with its buildings queerly •constructed, and is divided into the Upper and Lower Town. The former stands on a bold rocky eminence some two or three hundred feet above the river St. Lawrence, whilst the latter lays at its feet. The city (i^nlikc any other in Canada) is encircled by fortifications of the strongest nature, bidding 48 QUEBEC. i «. bold (Icfianco to the approach of un unwelcome stronger. The citadel stands on the highest eminence of the rock, which fonns its solid founda- tion. It commands the river and surrounding country in everj' direction, and its formidable 32-poundcrs would deal inevitable dcstmction to any object which came within their range. The upper town is entered by five gates, and contains within its walls about one-fourth of the entire population of Quebec, which is roughly computed to be about 50,000. The lower town is composed of stores, warehouses, wharves, docks, shops, with other adjuncts of trade, and some hundreds of dwellings for labourers and mechanics. It is here that the foreign trade of Quebec is transacted, so that the eye rests on untold quantities of timber, which puzzles the imagination to account for its accumulation, or how it is to be removed ; but some idea may be formed of the vast extent of the timber trade of Canada when I inform my readers that whole fleets of the largest d< scription of vessels are annually engaged in its conveyance to Europe. The wood thus exported is principally oak, pine, and elm, which is brought down to the city in enor- mous rafts, numbers of which arc to be found floating about the river at all time s during the season. Shipbuilding is also extensively canied on here, and it is not unfrequently that as many as forty vessels are on the stocks at one time. The inhabitants of. Quebec are principally of French QUEBEC. 49 descent, and I found that language is gtnerally used in their ordinaiy conversations, but business trans- actions arc invariably carried on in English, which, to wyidea, they appear to speak and understand better than the former. They are of cheerful temperament, very courteous in their manners, and extremely hospitable, traits "which gi'eatly contribute to the comfoi't and pleasures of a stranger. ' There arc no public buildings worthy of particular remark, but outside the city, and apart from its crooked streets and circumscribed dwelling-s, are many very prettily detached \'illas, the residences of the wealthy. The main promenade is on what is tenned the terrace, a fine space of gi'ound within the fortifications. A charming view is obtained from this position, as it overlooks the broad and noble river St. La"\^Tence and the lower part of the city, and is deservedly a favourite resort of the inhabitants. Upon the whole I was much pleased with Quebec, with its reliquery buildings, cozily surrounded with walls and ram- parts, imparting an air of poetiy to the place which would be effectually destroyed by any attempt at modernization. iN'o stranger ever visits Quebec without seeing the celebrated falls of Montmorency, which are situated nine miles distant. In company with a fellow traveller we hired one of the city conveyances, which are something similar to our phaetons, and drove to the Falls. The sight well repaid us for our trip, and was one not very easily to be forgotten. The river Montmorency, though E 50 QUEBEC. \i ii I neither very ■\vitlc or deep, is sufficiently so to produce a gieut caturuet; it varies from fifty to seventy feet in breadth, just as it may be swollen by rain or reduced by excessive heat. Passing over a rocky bed, and acquiring great velocity in its course, it eventually precipitates itself into a chasm 240 feet below. The water in its fall being broken by some sharp .projecting rocks, distributes a spray which assumes the appearance of soft curly moss, and produces an inconceivably beautiful effect. In winter, I was told, these falls become doubly attractive, as this spray becomes frozen, and forms fin enormous cone nearly one hundred feet high. Duiing this season it is visited by the people of Quebec and its vicinity in large numbers, who drive to the spot in elegant vehicles, luxuriantly cushioned «nd furred, and drawn by fine horses who rejoice in the music of innumerable small bells. It is then that the sides of the cone present an animated appearance. Visitors ascend to the summit, and numerous small sledges, freighted with city belles, and guided by their young beaux, may be seen careering at immense speed to the base, a sport which creates great fun and merriment. No one can conceive the beauty of a fall of water of such dimensions, and any description of mine must utterly fail to give a correct idea. These falls are among the most celebrated in a country which abounds in natural wonders, and the scene is one which cannot be viewed without a feeling of silent S QUEBEC. u wonder and admiration. The guide -was a deaf and dumb female, who took us to different positions from whence the best views are to be obtained, and, considering the disadvantages under which she laboured, it was astonishing the aptitude with which she explained by gestuies the peculiar channs of the scene. The falls were crossed at one time by a neat suspension bridge, which, however, broke down a few years ago, precipitating into the foaming abyss a vehicle with thi-ee persons in it, who happened to be crossing at the time. It is needless to add that no vestiges of them were ever seen. The remains of the bridge are still standing, and serve ari a monument to pei-petuate the sudden and awful catastrophe. While I stood musing on the brink of the cataract as it dashed past to the depth beneath with fearful violence, I felt that it was not a moment for either mirth or trifling, for one false step would have momentarily engnlphed me in its waters, and so with these reflections I witlidrew to a safer position. I returned to the city, and next day, having an hour or two to spare, I rode to the plains of Abraham, to which I have previously alluded. It was here that the chivalrous conflict between the armies of General Wolfe and the intrepid Montcalm took place, and which resulted in the total defeat of the latter. Be assured I felt proud of my country as I trod this battle field and thought of the A-ictory and death of Wolfe. It must not be imagined that ^A s ■ • 52 UV£fi£C. tliif* was an ordinary contest, on the contraiy, the strategic sagacity of the one was only equalled by the magnanimity of the other, and thus was fought one of the most sangfuinary conflicts on the records of modem times. At the time General Wolfe laid sieg:! to Quebec the French were strongly entrenched within the city with all the forces that could be raised in the province, and considered the landing of an imading force next to an impossibility, much less the capture of their stronghold. A landing Avas ncvei-thek'ss effected in a brilliant manner some considerable distance up the liver, and a rapid march was made toward the city. The news of this landing was suddenly made known to the French, who saw the English approaching, and Montcalm at once decided upon quitting the city with his troops and giving them open battle. The struggle was but of short duration, and, in the moment of victory, "Wolfe fell mortally wounded, but survived just long enough to know that the day was his, and that he had shed fresh lustre on the British aiins. Thus closed his brilliant career. His laurels were won early, for he died in the very piime of life, and his country has ever recognized' in him an imdauntcd soldier, a calm and sagacious general, and the very model of a hero. " He died that death ^rhich best becomes a man, A death that kills the noble and the brave And only them" — Though a hundred years have passed away since the occurrence of the events just recorded, the naine QUEBEC. 9« * of Wolfe is quoted as one of those bright examples which have served to ennoble Englishmen in eveiy quarter of the globe, and, indeed, it is to such men that England owes her present greatness. Wolfe was bom at Westerham, in Kent, and a monument may be seen in the old church there — a just tribute to his memory — ^bearing the following excellent and appropriate inscription : — JAMES, Son of Colonel Edwakd Wolfe and Heneikxta, his Wife, was bom in this Parish, January 2nd, 1727, and died in America, September 13th, 1759, ;^ CONQUEROR OP QUEBEC. Whilst George in sorrow bows his laurel'd head, And bids the Artist grace the Soldier dead, We raise no sculptor'd Trophy to thy name, 'V Brave youth ; the fairest in the list of Fame ; Frond of thy Birth, we boast th' auspicious year, Struck with thy Fall wc shed a general tear; With humble grief inscribe one artless stone, And from thy matchless Honors date our own. The Necropolis of Quebec is about two miles •distant from the city, and is situated on an eminence called Mount Herman. It is a most eligible spot for the repose of the dead, whose ashes ai-e not likely to 54 QUEIIKC. ])c disturbed ])v the cnc roiulimcntH of the citv com- missioncrs, the distunce precluding sueh ai rapid stride. The {^rounds of tliis public ccraeteiy are carefully planned and tastefully laid out, and, from its lofty position, commnndH an extensive view of the suiToundinjj; neighbourhood, and of the mighty ri\er St. La"Nvren<'e rolling raajcsticidly along with tt stillness conx^sponding to the quiet of this earthly resting place — " Where tlie >villow weeps and the moonbeam sleeps O'er the spot of the new made grave." With the fall of Quebec the dominion of the French in (Canada was finally cnished, British rule once more predominated, the importance of the concpiest was sensibly felt, and this valuable colony has ever since continued to increase in prosperity. I was sorry to leave Quebec, for I had, during my short stay there, become accustomed to the place and the habits of its citizens, the table d'hote dinner, and the daily promenade afterwards on the tenace. I proceeded to Montreal, and ha^'ing the choice of either the dull monotony of a railway journey, or the more pleasant alternative of a trip by river steamer up the St. Lawrence, I naturally chose the latter and embarked on boai'd a neatly fitted and compact steamer, called ** Napoleon," for m^ destination. The distance by rail is about 180 miles, whilst by the river it is somewhat more. I enjoyed the scenery very much, though I was k h f •♦ MONTKKAL. 5-0 I •• informod that it could not vie in bcautj with thut which I should hereafter sec above Montreal. The journey occupied about eighteen hours, and we reached Montreal at eight o'clock in the morning following our departure. Having landed, I pur- sued my way to the hotel, and, passing through the main btrect of the city, was much struck with the beauty of the buildings and the bustle of the streets. Montreal (literally Mount lloyal) is situate on an island of the same name, and is the largest und most prosperous city in all Canada. It has some very stately edifices, and is altogether a fine and venerable looking place. The scenery in its vicinity is not so bold and striking as thut in the neigh- bourhood of Quebec. At the same time, the undulating fertile pasture lands, with some beau- tiful orchai'ds and delightful drives, present a pleasing landscape. Here, as at Quebec, th« wealthier portion of the community reside in villas prettily situated outside the city. The streets of Montreal are wide; the houses are well built, large, and commodious; whilst the public buildings surpass in architectural beauty those of any city in the pro- vinces. These, as well as most of the houses, are roofed with tin, which is both light and durable, though the effect to a stranger is very stiiking. The city is well lighted ^vith gas, and the best streets are paved with stone. The principal streets are " Notre Dame" and Great St. James' ; in the former is the Town Hall — a large building, the - i 56 MONTllKAI,. Scrainaiy of St. Suii^lice, und the ConTont of Notro Bamo. "Rt'sidcH these, ihvrv. arc tho Coui*t-hou8o, the Tost-offiee, tlio Bonsccour market — whioli was erected at un outlay of 287,000 dollars, tho Jesuit College, St. George's Church, the lUink of Montreal, the Bank of British Xorth America, all of them handsome buildings of cut stone. The Iloman Catholic cathcdi'al of Notre Dame, 6nc of the largest churehoa in America, is an object which first attracts the attention of the stranger ; it is a very handsome and imposing stone edifice with towers, and is said to be capable of containing 10,000 persons. Inside the walls it is more than 300 feet long by 150 feet wide, and is veiy lofty. The organ, which had been taken down whilst I was there, is to be replaced by another of larger dimensions, to be played by water power, and it will be tho largest in America. The interior of the cathedral is well worth a visit : the carvings, the altars, the sculpture, and other decorations being extremely rich. An excellent view of the city and surrounding country is to be had from the summit of tho towers of the cathedral, or from the mountain outside tho city. The Parliament House and its Library were unfortunately totally destroyed by fire during the political riots of 1849, but the Theatre, the Barracks, tho Hospital, and the New Prison are all conspicuous structures. Montreal is the seat of the Bomon Catholic bishop, and it has besides a French College, an University, a Roman UONTHKAL. 67 Catholic Theological School, besides Rovcral clnpsical and Hcientiflc academies, for at least one-half of the population an^ Itoman (^itholics. The harbour, which is formed by an aim of the St. Lawrence, is smtdl but secure, and is capable of sheltering vessels of all sizes. The Canadian line of steamers i-un from Liverpool to Quebec and ^fontrcid ; indeed, the shipping trade is veiy extensive, whilst the navigation is open. It has an increasing trade in potash and pearlash, and there are also some breweries of bitter ales and porter which are suc- ceeding well. It is well supplied with most excellent water, which is drawn I'rom the St. Lawrence above the Lachino rapids, conducted five miles through a canal, when it is forced up a distance of 2 1 miles into the reservoirs at the brow of the mountain, which arc capable of holding 15,000,000 gallons. These splendid water works have lately been constructed at a cost of 1,300,000 dollars. Its wharves are very numerous, extending for more than a mile along the river's edge. In fine, Montreal possesses every facility for commerce though a little too distant from the seaboard, yet when the branches and connecting links of railway with the Grand Trunk line are completed, it cannot fail to become the great central depot for the traffic of a railway communication upwards of a thousand miles in extent. The population of the city is now estimated at 80,000. Here, across the St. Lawrence, is the celebrated Tictoiia Tubular Bridge, the greatest scientific 6a VICTOKIA TUBULAK BllIDGK. II 'i achievement of any age. It is vcr}' similar in con- struction to the Britannia Tube across the jVtenai Straits, but on a more gigantic scale, and it will not be out of jJace if I offer o few figures upon '.Is dimensions. The extreme length of the bridg<(^ itself, i.icluding abutments and approaches, is two * miles less fifty yards ; iis centre span is 330 feet, and there are twelve spans of 242 feet each on either side of the centre one. The abutments are also 242 feet each, whilst the height of the bridge above th& water, in summer time, is sixty feet at the centre opening, descending to either end at the gradation of one foot to every 130. There are three millions of cubic feet of masonry in its construction, and the weight of ii'on in the tubes is eiffht thousand tons !' The dimensions of the tube through which the trains pass are, at the middle spun, twenty- two feet high and sixteen feet "W'ide ; whilst at tlie extreme ends it is only nineteen feet high and sixteen feet widf. On either side of the railway ire wings- for foot jjassengers. I may safely say there is nothing like it of its kind in the world ; the engineering difficulties were immense, and nothing but British skill and genius could ? ive overcome them. The St. Lavrrence is the principal river of North America ; it is over 2,000 miles in length, whilst its source being 1,100 fc.t above the sea level, the average fcll would be about six inches; in the mile. The fall, however, is most unequal, for in its coiu-se it fonns many cataracts ; the largest of them, "The Niagara," being, i depth and :. rs virrouiA TunuLAR bkidok. 59 " } dimensions, the most cxtraordinaiy in tho world. The width of the St. Lawrence differs also vciy con- siderably at various points of its course. At Quebec^ for instance, it is not more than 1,300 yards; beyond the Orleans lliver it is eleven miles, and its breadth at Point Pelee is upwards of thirty miles; at Montreal it is about 2,000 yards wide; so that besides ha\'ing to carrj* on the work of this bridge in a climate which, for many months in the year, is un- equalled for severity, excepting in the arctic regions, enormous strength was required by the supports of it, in order not only to sustain tho heaviest burthens of which passing trains could consist, but also to with- stand the immense impetus given to the course of the stream at this point. Moreover, the engineer had tO' take into account the pressure from the ovenvhelming masses of floating ice which annually cover the river^ Kevertheless, these requirements have been fully met, and the structure combines perfect efficiency •with singular economy of material. In a conversa- tion which I had with one of the engineers employed upon the work, I was informed that the bridge had been tested, and found not only capable of bearing the weight of the heaviest train, but that if it was practicable to place one train upon another, its powers were amply sufficient ; and that every pier was fastened by iron bolts to the solid rock beneath. Such is a slight attempt at a description of this gigantic undertaking, which, though it demanded the highest efforts of mechanical and constructive skill, the 60 VICTOHIA TUBULAR BRIDGE. i ! .:rt I bold and expcriciKicd mind of the engineer was not overtasked by the exigencies of the case. The idea of bridging the St. La\vrence, when first suggested, was regarded as one of the wildest schemes ever proposed. But the experienced and practical mind of Eobert Stephenson dispelled all doubts as to the possibility of its accomplishment. In July, 1853, he went out to Canada to fix the site, and to deter- mine the dimensions and general construction of the Tubular Bridge. There is only one regret that this eminent man did not live long enough, to witness the completion of a work which is characterised by singular originality coupled with boldness of design and success in execution ; and which contributes so largely to swell his world- won reputation. Such an achievement as the Victoria Bridge might well have daunted the skill and enterprise of any less de- termined men than the engineers of our nineteenth century. Its cost was one million three hundred thousand pounds, being 200,000 less than the original esti- mate — something unusual in engineering works — ' and on the 24th November, 1859, the first train crossed over the St. Lawrence. We now come to another point bearing on the same subject — ^viz. the reasons for and the importance of such a construction. In the United States of America an extensive system of railway commuiL nation exists, and the desirability of connecting Canada with the States has long been obvious to everyone interested in the VICTORIA TUBULAK BR' DOT!. ei prosperity of our Canadian possessions. It was under the wise direction of Sir Francis Hincks that the Grand Tnink llailway of Canada was widely extended, and made to coL-^cct, as closely as practicable, with the railways of the United States. The Grand Trunk llailroad, running as it docs through Upper and Lower Canada, meets every requirement at present, as far as these provinces are concerned ; but a glance at the map will shew that this is a veiy indirect and circuitous route to the Atlantic, and to the greater portion of the United States. Therefore, a consideration of the importance and necessity for a shorter and more du'cct road induced the construction of the Victoria Bridge ; and the success of other engineering enterjirises, such as at the " Menai Straits," at Chepstow, and other places, naturally suggested the possibility of overcoming that material difficulty which alone prevented a junction of the British and American lines — ^\iz. the crossing of the St. Lawrence. By the accomplishment of this great undertaking, direct and uninterrupted communication into the United vStates is secured to our North American Colonies, not, as heretofore, dependent upon the seasons, but practicable at all times, affording easy access for the products and general traffic of Canada, to all ports on the Atlantic, and consequently to Europe. , Truly such a work is fraught with the highest importance and consequences to the future welfare and prosperity of Canada. \N ;i ! «9 KINGSTON. I have already adverted to the difficulties of the task and the manner in which everj* exigency has been overcome by the master mind of Robert Stephenson; indeed, it may be doubted if ever a monument has been raised by human hands which can offer a prouder memoiial of the race which reared it than does the Victoria Bridge. I take it, that everything which facilitates intercourse and opens a channel for commercial enterprise between Canada and the United States of America, tends to strengthen that bond of union which binds, and should bind together the old country and the new ; for the more closely the interests of the people at large — socially and commercially are interwoven — the less chance of any political misunderstanding. Continuing my journey, I proceeded by railway from Montreal to Kingston by the night train, (which deprived mo of the opportunity of a view of the con|ft\y) and reached my destination at about five o'clock^hc following morning. Kuigston, though once the capital of Upper Canada, is a small to-w-n Avith but few attractions within itself, and really calls for no particular description. It only returns one member to the House of Assembly, whilst Quebec and Montreal each return two. The houses are generally well built, and there are some good streets ; but a dull and vacant aspect pervades the place. The people of Kingston certainly informed me that times were bad, and, in short, the dull appcai'ance of the city cor- KIXOSTOX. G3 roboratcd their assei-tion. The hotel accommodation is vciy limited and of an inferior order — certainly no inducements for tourists to make a stay. If a life at Kingston is dull and monotonous it has chai'ming scenery as a compensation. The town is situated on Lake Ontario, the view of which from the fortress outside Kingston is magnificent. The lake is studded by various small islands, which, in the summer, are covered with foliage, and this, with the rays of the sun glittciing on the expanse of water, present a most enchanting pictm-e, and forms the resort of numbers of tourists and cxcur- .sion parties. This beautiful Lake of Ontario is 172 miles in length and 467 miles in circumference, its depth is very variable, being from thi'ce to one hundred fathoms. The water is quite fresh and abounds in fish, and the lake itself presents an area of 12,600 square miles. The waters of Lake Eric •descend into Lake Ontario by the ^Niagara liiver which is 33 miles in length, and contains several small islands, whilst Lake Ontario in turn dis- charges itself into the St. La-wTcnce ; for though the real source of this king of rivers is out in the " far west," it does not, strictly speaking, receive the name of St. La^vrencenmtii*' it reaches this point. Its length from here is nearly 800 miles, but if we reckon its course from Lake Hiu'on it would be more than 2,500 ! It is worthy of remark here that the Eideau Canal, which is 135 miles long, extends from Lake Ontario at Kingston, to 64 KINGSTON. the Ottawa river at Chaudicre. It was constructed to avoid the rupids of the Ottawa, and is capable of receiving vessels of 120 tons burthen. The tribes of the Mohawks, or Iroquois Indians, live in the countries along the St. La\\Tence, and between Lakes Ontario and Erie ; they are principally hunters, without any fixed abode, their numbers, however, are rapidly decreasing, especially in the; vicinity of the European settlements. I had heard a great deal, both in England and in Canada, of descending, or wliat is ordinarily teimed " shooting the rapids " of the St. Lawrence — and it was therefore not likely that I should miss the opportunity when it presented itself, of realizing that of which I had heard so much. Accordingly, after a veiy shoii; sojourn at Kingston, I packed up and was off by six in the morning, and embarked on the steamer ** Kingston," which was to convey me over these said rapids. The day was beautiful, bright and calm ; one of those delightfully pleasant days which creates an exuberance of spirits, and fills the mind with enjoyment. AVe descended the stream swiftly, calling at one or two small places on the way, and ever and anon passing numbers of small islands, whose clustering foliage of vaiious hues "kissed the dancing waters;" but though I was highly pleased with this magnificent panorama, my mind was filled with thoughts of the especial object of my trip. On board the steamer were several Americans, with a few ladies, but very few SHOOTING THE UAPIDS. amongst us had accomplished tho feat which wd were so soon nhout to realize. The srencry down the river is of the most magnificent and varied description, and has quite a character of its own. It fully (Miualled all that I had ever heard of it, and particularly that portion kno^vn as '*The Tliousand Islands," which in reality, I heliev(» numher ( ighteen hundred — including every size, from the minute patch just sufficient for standing room for one person, up to the magnitude of several hundred acres. The steamer cleverly wends her way through the heautiful intricacies of these islands, and as we shot rapidly hy them, often close to them, occasionally finJ'ing ourselves in quite a narrow though deep channel, then in a broad expanse of water, the scene presented by them each differing, not only in size, but in appearance from the other, was of the most fairy-like character. The air resounded on all sides with the tuneful notes of the feathered tribe, who had chosen for their abode so delightful a retreat. As we approached the first rapid, called ** Long Sault," we were all on the tiptoe of excite- ment to catch a view of it, when suddenly a scene of wild grandeur is before us, for the noise of the bubbling vortex was distinctly heard, and the waves, lashed into spray and into breakers of countless forms, were perceptible. Forward is a real precipice of water, and on every side are breakers being tossed high into the air. Ere you have time to reflect, the order is given to shut off the steam, and p 'i 66 SHOOTING THE RAPIDS. our vessel has mounted the wall of wave and foam ; she is flung from the crest of great waves rushing down the precipice upon others receding, and she trembles to her very keel from the shock, and the spray is thrown far upon deck, giving us an agree* able drenching. Yet she dashes through in her lightning way, and " spurns the countless whirl- pools." There was scarce time for admiration, we were "shooting" the descending waters at the speed of a locomotive, and the gurgling, foaming angry eddies cast up their spray, regardless of our vessel and her freight ; but soon a glorious und sublime science lands us safely upon the calm and unruffled bosom of the river beyond.* No words can convey the thrill of excitement that is felt during the few moments occupied in " shooting the rapids." Though it can never be adequately described, it is one of those experiencies that can never be forgotten. Once again in smooth water, we all commenced describing our individual feelings and sensations during the time we were on the rapid. Some of the ladies retired to their state rooms and saw not the grandeur of the scene, whilst the gentlemen were all agreed it was a splendid sight — ^novel and exciting. Speaking personally, the sensation was very peculiar, causing a dizziness in the head and * The fall in the river, no less than thirty feet, is sufficient to explain this mighty warring of the waters. I RUOOTINO THE RAPIDN. ei nausea which lusted for some moments ; for the vessel does not pitch or roll as tit Hen, but performs a sort of heaving, fantastic motion, as though she felt inclined to be sportive, and then, recovering herself, remembers she must behave witli becoming dignity. ^ Passing further down this magnificent river through a long succession of islands, we found our- selves in the Lake of St. Francis, quiet and undis- turbed in its expansive waters. It is difficult to infer the reason of its ha\ing been tenncd a lake^ because it is a mere widening of the river for some fifty miles in length, though its width is not greater than at many other points. It was not long ere wo halted at a small town on its shores, called "Coteau du Lac," and again were in sight of another rapid ; and though we were only about three minutes crossing it was exciting enough, the rate at which • we passed over being tenific ; I should say at least fourteen miles per hour without the aid of steam. "We afterwards passed, in succession, the Cascades, the Cedars, and the ** Beauhamais," after shooting which, with the usual accompaniments of excitement . and drenching, we found ourselves in Lake St. Louis, . into which the Ottawa pours its dark brown waters, thus mingling with the mightier stream of the St. Lawrence, down which we were gliding. Tho ,. Ottawa falls into Lake St. Louis by two estuaries formed by Montreal Island, which interposes itself between the two streams, and below these are tho r i I MIOOTLNO Jin: KAl'IUM, Luchino liapids, the most difficult, and tht'i'i'foro tlit; most duiij?en)us, of them ull. Tht'y uiv situated nine miles above ^lontrcid, where tiieir roar is I're- quently heard at uij;ht. Jjookiuj; on them aw you enter, one is tempted to exclaim against the fool- hardiness of shooting through them, inasmuch as they are interspersed witli innumerable rooks scattered about iu every conceivable direction, and the rapid runs at the rate of twenty milt>8 per hour. Before approaching these rai)ids, an Indian put off from the shore and took command of the helm, lie was a man rather over the middle age of life, of muscular frame and with a strong, penetrating eye, evidently possessed of great nerve, and having full knowkidge of the peculiar currents of the rapids, ''our men were at once placed at the wheel and i >\ o at the tiller, at the stem, and wen* of course immediately under his orders. The steam is again shut off, and away we are launched with headlong impetuosity upon the rapid. Some of the rocks which we passed were close to the vessel's side, and one in particular, on to which we seemed to be steeling, gave all on board gi'eat uneasiness as may be imagined, consider- ing the rate at which we were bearing down upon it. If the vessel should presenthersclf sideways or "broad to," as the term is, to the cuiTent, she would immedi- taelybe engulphed, hence the necessity of having gi-eat power at the rudder. It seemed as though nothing could save us from being dashed to pieces against that jagged rock, but by a turn almost as rajnd as a suooxrxrt TiiK UAnns. 01) bird, our harquc avoids it, and sliootinp; forward like an arrow, wc arc instantly caniccl past it hy the current, the stprn of the vessel, however, being not moT{\ than one foot from the roek. We all r(>juiee(! that we had now safely '* shot" the last rajnd, and when the great decline upon these waters — viz., seventy feet in a distance of three miles — is taken into consideration, together with the teiTitic rate which we rush through or rather " slioot" tbem, it can be readily conceived that the term '* 'shooting* the rapids" is not inappropriate or misapplied. Dangerous as the rapids of Lachine are, the Indians have frecjuently passed down them in their frail •canoes, in times when the white man nc^vcr dreamt of such a hazard, though it should be stated that no accident has yet occurred to any steamer traversing these waters. Notwithstanding this, nothing but the greatest nerve and coolness, and a perfect know- ledge of the currents could possibly have taken us with safety through these dangers ; and one glance at our helmsman would have satisfied the most nervous person that he was possessed of all these 'Capacities. "We were now approaching smoother and safer water, and were expecting to reach. Montreal, which city, with the magnific(>nt structure, the Victoria Bridge, was soon in sight, and it was not long ere I had once more landed and was comfortably located in my quartci-s at Donagana's. "My friends were anxious to know the result of ray trip, and what impression it had made upon me, and we spent 70 JOl'BNKY TO TORONTO. II 1! n few plennant hours in recounting thu b«autioM and difficultieH of the poHHago. My 8tuy on this otHinwion in Montreal wus briof^ and I now thought of leaving for Toronto, whioh was my next Htage. Aecordingly I proceeded by the evening train on the Grand Trunk liailway, and noon Montreal, with itn lofty buildings, its tin- r«v(»rod roofs and homely citizens was loft behind, a thing of the pust, but pleasantly and indelibly fixed on my memniy. The distance to Toronto is ;}3.'l miles, and the line touches at Cornwall, Prescot, Brookvillc, Kingston, Co^rg, and Port Hope, which are the principal towns along the line of route, as- far as population and commercial importance are concerned. As I tmvelled at night I had not the benefit of the scenery for the entire distance ; but I enjoyed it from Kingston onwards. "Wo passed many forests of fine timber, yet occasional land- scapes forcibly reminded me of the old country, the soil being well cultivated, and consisting chiefly of wheat and pasture land. The wheat crops, which had failed for the last two years, now presented a very favourable appear- ance; a great blessing to any country, but most especially to Canada, the region of grain crops (of which Toronto is the principal market) on which she may be said almost wholly to depend. Toronto, the present seat of the Canadian govern- ment, is delightfully situated on Lake Ontario. The streets are lengthy, spacious, and very straight. TOEoirro. 71 and bring laid out with mathomnticul prccuHion at right nnglos to vuvh other, have u ntrnggling, barei and unflniHhud iippcarance. It munt bo borne in mind thtit Toronto is a city that has risen from compurutive insignificance to considerable note in a very few years; therefore, the plan originally adopted for laying out the city has not been interfered with by enterprising capitalists, or been Bubjected to those changes so common to European cities. The Eossin House Hotel, at which I took up my quarters, is the largest in Canada, and Js conducted on the American principle. There was tho usual bustle and business as in all American Hotels ; and the bar with its attractions, the reading-room, and the (iutrunce hall were generally filled with those residing at the hotel, and their friends. The city of Toronto was commenced in 1794, previous to which it was a dense forest — tho habita- tion of tho wolf and other wild animals. It was first called York, in honour of tho Duke of York, and for many years its progress as a city was slow and unsatisfactory. From the year 1823 however, it began to flourish, and it has now a large trade and many manufactures, funiiture and machinery being amongst the principal. On the shores of the lake and the present site of the city there once existed a collection of wigwams of the Mississagna Indians, and Toronto, its present name, is derived from the Indian one, signifying " the meeting i 72 TORONTO. i i i :j Mi .u ! f pla{'(>," itiid Avas adoptod in lieu of York about the year 18.'J4 ; from that time it has 'continued steadily to advanof, and uoav hoasts of a population of about 65,000. Tlie buildings are quite of modem architecture, and aii'-nigst those worthy of a visit; — the Legislative Chanibc.TH — the University — the two Colleges, and the ^lodel School, arc the foremost. There is also a public park, tastefully laid out, and is Cit once a necessity and a boon to the inhabitants. I may observe that tlii-" is the only place in Canada where a park, *' the lungs " of a populous city, has been jr.diciously granted to the people for recreative purposes. There are sev(>ral daily newspapers and other periodicals publislic d in Toronto, and one or two of these are really well edited. For instance, the Globe and Colomd enjoy the gi'ealest sole, and are papers of much inibrmation, both politically, commercially, and otherwise. There is also a description of *' Charivari" published in the city, which^ although not pictorially illustrated, as is the ease vrith our worthy friend of Fleet Street, is nevci'theless exceedingly witty at times, and rejoices in the ominous desiguation of Poker. On the whole, Toronto is an important city, and well worthy of a visit, for though devoid of the historic associations of Q,uebec, and not equalling Montreal in prosperity, the aggregate of its internal vtalth is considered very great, though property of every description will no doubt depreciate on the removal of tlie seat of Government to Ottawa. The city is built on a TORONTO. 73 ** dead level," and as the piincipal buildings are of white hriek, the xiv.w from the lake is very elegant ; the surronnding countrj' is e(jually flat, and presents, on all sides, an unbroken area of many miles. During my stay in Toronto, I availed myself of the opportunity to visit Barrie, a small station on Lake Simcoe, a part of the country which has only been cl(?ared of recent years, and was, hitherto, peopled by various tribes of Indians. Barrio I found to be it quiet little hamlet, pleasantly situated in a line on the margin of the lake, within about a mile and a half from the railway station. It has a few dry goods stores and a printing office ; a good main road runs by the side of the lake, and, on a hill in the rear of the village, are some pretty detached little; villas newly erected, and some in course of construction. Returning to Toronto I proceeded westward, by the Great Western Railway of Canada, to Hamilton, Toj next destination, and arrived there at an early houi- in the ^^ ening. Hjimilton is about forty miles from Toronto and is the next largest city in Upper Canada. Its population is estimated at a^Mjut 30,000, but this is fast increasing and promises shortly to rival the sister city not only in this respect, but in that prosperity which attends the gradual increa*^e of n commercial (community. It lies at the base of a range of mountains and at the head of ;• pretty bay of Lake Ontario, thus the position of Hamilton is extremely picturesque. Its m 74 HAMILTON. streets are broad, spacious, and well payed, and altogether the city is handsomely laid out, whilst some of the buildings are remarkably fine, suffi- ciently so to grace the vast metropolis of the mother country. The dry goods stores and other shops arc on an extensive scale, and the city m rapidly extending in all directions. There are several fine churches and other places of worship which form most creditable specimens of the public spirit and good taste of the citizens. Is is some- times called ** the ambitious little city," a term not inappropriate to the commercial energy of the place. The principal hotel is the " Anglo-American," which is large and commodious, and well conducted on the American plan. This part of the country may be termed the granary of Canada, for the finest farms in the province are in this locality, or say within an area of three hundred miles by one hundred — scarcely the tenth part of Canada — at least one half of its population is to be found. Leaving Hamilton I proceeded to London, still going westward, by the Great Western Railway of Canada. London lies seventy-six miles distant from Hamilton, and is situated on the Thames, in the county of Middlesex, and has its Westminster and Blackfriars bridges — all in worthy imitation of the mother country ; but here the simile ends. Its population has rapidly increased within the last five years, and now reaches about 16,000. It is a free port and has other advantages, and though it HAMILTOX. 75 is a clean little town with some good and spacious streets, and several fine stone buildings, it is to be regretted that owing to the failure of the crops for the last two or three years previous to my visit, its commercial prospects have been materially retarded. Indeed such was the prostration of trade in Upper Canada at the time I was there, owing to the complete failure of the grain crops (on which, as I have before stated, Canada mainly depends) that it will require several years of prosperity to bring her round again. The Canadian is loyal, hospitable, and free, and much attached to England and her institutions ; as fondly does he speak and think of these, as ho is strongly opposed to the go-a-hoad Yankees and theii- democratic ideas. If ever England requires a kingdom over which she may be desirous of placing one of her youthful princes, Canada would be a happy selection. And here it will not be out of place if I give an outline of the Government and Law of Canada. The constitution of Canada is part written and part unwritten. The icritten part is composed of the Capitulations of Quebec and Montreal at the Conquest; of the Treaty between England and France upon the cession of the province by the latter to the former ; of the Proclamation of the King of England immediately afterwards ; of the " Quebec Act," passed by the Imperial Parliament in 1774 ; of the "Constitutional Act" of 1791 ; of the CONSTITUTION OF CANADA. h 5 L 1! : ** Union Act" of 1841 ; and of aevoral llcsolutiona passed in the same; year by the Legislature of Canada, aftenvards sanctioned by the Imperial Government. The iimoritten part of the Consti- tution consists of Kules and Customs deduced from histoiy, and applies to such exigencies as have not been pro\'ided for by the written documents. By this Constitution the Canadians enjoy the under- mentioned privileges, by which it will be seen that it assimilates as nearly as possible to the British Constitution : — 1. Entire civil and religious freedom. 2. Liberty of speaking any language, French and Eng- lish, however, being the only two recognised in the legislature and the courts of justice. 3. Perfect equality and eligibility to all oflfices of state. 4. Taxation only by authority of their own Parliament. 5.^_Iiberty of action in all things not forbidden by law, jlov trenching upon the rights of others. 6. Liberty to meet in public assemblies. 7. The right of petition. 8. Liberty of the press. 9. Trial by jury. 10. Writ of Habeas Coi'ptts. 11. Freedom from arrest, except according to certain prescribed forms. ParUamert is composed of three branches. The Governor (as representing the sovereign) — a Legislative Council (answering somewhat to the House of Lords) — and ft Legislative Assembly, similar to the Commons. ParUament must meet within one year after the end of the preceding session. • Electors for members of Parliament must be possessed,' ^1 -s i '4 CONSTITUTION OF CANADA. 77 in the towns, of pi-operty worth i'7 iOa. per anuum, and in tlie country, of ATj ; moreover, they must be British subjects, or naturalized foreigners. The members of the Legislative Council were formerly appointed by the crown ; but hereafter, like the members of the Assembly, will be elective. The debates in Parliament are open to the public. Money votes must be initiated by the members of the Government, in the Assembly or Commons. The Governor exercises legislative jiower by sanctioning tlie bills passed Ijy the two Houses; or, if declining the responsibility, reserves them for submission to the Sovereign. The Government, or Executive of the province, is con- lided to the Governor, aided by a council of ten Ministers, who must hold seats in one or other of the chambers. These Ministers continue in office so long as they retain the confidence of Parliament; in other words, while they can command majorities for their measures, and no longer. These Ministers are heads of the several departments, to wit : — 1. The President of the Council and Minish^r of Agri- culture. ^ *•.*. Attorney-General for Upper Canada. 3. Attorney- General for Lower Canada. 4. The Inspector -Generiil (or Fiui>n'ce Minister). 5. 'I'he Postmaster-(jeneral. C. The Commissioners of the Board of Public Works. 7. The Commissii)ner of Grown Lands. ^<. Tlie Heceiver-General. 9. The Provincial Secrotury. 10. The Speaker of the Legislative Council. — He is the only Minister wlio has no portfolio, or other special charge than the said Spenkcrsliip. The Courts of J\uUuu are j resided aver by Judges who 1 78 CONSTITUTION OF CANADA. iH ii hold their commisHions during good behaviour ; and these courts answer very much to those in Great Britain. Appea' to the Privy Council from the decision of the highest Canadian tribunals is allowed, but this privilege is seldom exercised, and is very costly. The civil code of Ixiwer Canada is that known as the " Coutume do Paris," somewhat modified by local legisla* tion. In commercial affairs ihe laws of England prevail, and the same may be said of the criminal side — the laws of England having, however, undergone some humane altera- tions in the Canadian Parliament. In Upper Canada, both civil and criminal law are English, but also considerably modified by provincial legislation. In both Upper and Lower Canada, the municipal system has been in operation since the union of the provinces in 1841; but Upper Canada has worked it far more success- fully than Lower Canada. It is hardly necessary to describe this system at any length. Each county is a municipality, and in some cases contains two municipalities. The town- ships send each two members to the council, and the council enacts rules and bye-laws within the meaning of the General Municipal Law, by which they are empowered to levy taxes on the real estate of the county for the purposes of educa- tiod, making roads, and keeping them in repair, building bridges, wharves, harbours, school houses, and other public buildings, and generally managing their own local affairs. Each section of the province is authorised, through its municipalities, to borrow money to the extent of vt'l, 500,000, for the purpose of taking stock in railroads; and the interest upon the debentures issued on this account is guaranteed by the Provincial Government, which has its recourse upon the municipalities when, in consequence of their failure to meet such interest, the holders of the debentures have to call upon it. The Upper Canada muni- cipalities have availed themselves of this privilege to its full NIAGARA. 7t «xtent ; but Lower Canada has nearly the whole of this «um to the good, and its expenditure hereafter will greatly contribute to the construction of roads, which will promote its settlement and prosperity. Lower Canada was some, what slow in adopting municipal institutions, but as they are becoming better understood, and as education is more diffused, the system grows in favour, and will doubtless soon produce its appropriate and beneficial results. At a distance of a little more than one hundred miles from London is Windsor, the ultima thule of Canada westward, but I did not \i%ii it. It is a small place on the River Detroit, and is situate opposite to the city of that name in Michigan State. Having travelled as far westward as I intended, my mind turned towards the famous Falls of Niagara, which I was most anxious to see. Accordingly, having made arrangements for leaving London, I took the train of the Great Western Railway of Canada to the Suspension Bridge Station, filled with the highest anticipations of the wonder I was so soon to look upon. By some mistake, which I could not understand, the train took us across the bridge to the station on the American side of the river, without halting at that on the Canadian side. However, my determination was not to stay on the American side, but to take up my residence at the Clifton House Hotel, close to the Falls, on the Canadian side. Upon myself and an English friend — ^whom 1 casually met in the train — with a few other m NIAOAli.V. travellors, rcpnsenting that wo wished to bo set tlown on the C'nnuda side of the Niaguru, the train was put back across the Suspension Bridge, when wo alighted and I immediately proceeded to the Clifton House, about ten miles distant. It was half-past ten o'clock, p.m., when I entered the hotel, and 1 slept that night in a front room over- looking the Falls, and consc(|uently in full hearing of their mighty, ceaseless roar. The Clifton House Hotel, which is a most magni- ficent house, occupies a commanding position of the Horse Shoe and American Falls, and is in the imme- diate vicinity of the ground on which the Battle of Lundifs Lane was fought. The accommodation is most excellent and the gardens surrounding it are a great addition, whilst it has large public saloons and is lighted with gas. I rose early next morning and proceeded, after breakfast, alone to view this wonder of creation — the Falls of Niagara. I say aloney for though on emerging from the hotel door I was beset by a host of guides, I have always preferred solitude when gazing on the sublime or gi-and : whether it has been the Great .Desert, the Pyramids, the lofty Himalayas, or that " sovereign of the world of floods" — Mighty !N^iagara. H(>re, before me, wcto these waters, rushing over a precipice, a depth of 150 feet, with a majesty and a gi-andeur perfectly inconceivable and utterly impossible to describe. So imin-essed was I with the lii'st sight of them, that my eyes moistened NIAOABA. ii with tears, and a delicious feeling of (istoniahmont and wonder filled me. I f(?lt that to speak aloud would ho an impiety. The soul seems to drink in the magnificence of the scene ; to ho awe-stricken ; dumh ; and reminds one how insignificant and frail, weak and dependent, is mortal man. Dr. Mackay, in his ** Life and Liherty in America," well de- Bcribes the impression when he says : — ** It is along time before the finite senses of any human being can grasp the full glory of this spectacle. I cannot say that I ever reached a satisfactory' comprehension of it. I only know that I gazed son'o-NvfuUy, yet glad, and that I understood thoroughly what was meant by the ancient phrase of being * spell-bound.*" I had never read an account of Niagara Falls ; 1 had oft imagined them ; but ncdther by the power of language, nor in imagination, am. mortal man paint the grandeur or the sublimity of these waters. Such were my feelings — such my convictions — on a first view of them. And I lingered about, gazing on them for hours from different points, until I was fairly fatigued and my eyes ached. The following day I commenced in earnest to see all that was pointed out as worthy of note, in con- nection -with and in the immediate vicinity of the Falls. I began by making the descent of, and passing under, the Canadian or Horse Shoe Fall, so called on account of its semi-circular shape. This is done under the care of a negro guide who, after seeing you properly clad in waterproof habiliments, 6 'i I 82 NIAGARA. prepares to j>o down with you. The overhanging clift' culled "TaMc Itock" ia descended by a stair which brings you close to the entrance, lehind the great falling sheet of neater. Here the view is awfully grand ; perpetual motion on a grand scale. The frowning, huge, overhanging rock above us; the immense curtain of water, which as we pass uinder is 80 n(uir that it seems as though we could touch it ; the hissing noise of the spray, and the dread- ful roar of the gurgling foaming waters beneath, inducts an indivscribable feeling of awe, and the most indifferent woidd become impressed with the tremendous niagnificence of Niagara Falls. As 1 viewed myself in my india-rubber attire just previous to my entering behind the falling sheet, I thought Avluit a pity I could not have my photdgniph talvc^i lor the benefit of my friends at home. Yet I am (juite sure that none of them could have recognised the individual, even had I been operated upon hy the science and skill of a Lock or u Whitfield, — so completely was I meta- aioi-jihosed. \S'ell, the negro takes hold of your hand and leads you carefully along the narrow ledge- of rock behind the Full, having previously informed you, that if you find the cold and wind too much for you, to give his bund a squeeze (for you can hear nothing hut Niagara) and he will return with you. Having gone aocut twenty or twenty-five paces, and finding T coidd not get my breath — it was indeed a cold shower-bath — I squeezed Sambo's hand, NIAOAUA. 83 and h(! instantly prepared to ob(!y the call ; but an I recovered my breath after a few more seconds, and not wishing to be disappointed, 1 made signs for him to proceed with me to tlie end of the rock, which he did. According to the certifiotito which I received from the llegister Office, Table Rock, on coming out, " T had passed behind the great falling sheet of toater to Termination Rock, being 230 feet behind the Great JTorse Shoe FallV From this I was led to believe that I had performed something worth speaking of, and though, perhaps, if one is moderately careful, we do not run much danger, yet accidents have occurred. Ah the ledge of rock along which we pass is very narrow and slippery, it requires caution, and at the same time it should bo mentioned, that portions of Ta"* le Hock have fallen and are expected to fall yearly, so that those who venture under the Falls must be content to run the risk of this. Yet T must say the sight of this ** liquid curtain,' is seen from behind it, will well repay the advcL ous traveller for the little dis- comfort and da ^er to which he may be subjected; though it has been aptly ob'^erved by a well known American ■wH^^'t, ''the undertaking is rather pleasanter to remember than to achieve." The charge for going unilcr the Fall is two dollars, which I thought one dollar too much. However, we cannot go behind the Horse Shoe Fall every day. It is 2,000 feet wide and 154 feet high, and the volume of water that is precipitated over it is 1 ^v .^^'^< %^N> ;^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) A ^^■^.^ ^- 1.0 1.1 |M "f^^ HI9H £ |£& 12.0 10 !L25 III 1.4 ■ll< ik III 1.6 — 6" Sciences Corporation 23 WtST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. MSM (716)«7a-4S33 V^ 84 NIAGARA. enormous, anu haB been reckoned to amount to ont hundred million tons per hour / The view from under it certainly affords the best idea of the immense quantity thrown over per second. In the centre it is estimated that the falling sheet is twenty feet thick. Just imagine, too, that these Falls have been pouring forth, as now, for ages upon ages ; and that within a mile of them the bottom never has been fathomed, and probably never will be ! On receiving my certificate at Table Rock, aa album was put in my hands — a public book — ^which Mr. Bamett, of the " Niagara Falls Museum," keeps for the gratuitous authorship of an intelligent public. In this album there are the compositions of an innumerable host of writers, and I need not therefore tell my readers that in it are to be found some highly creditable literary pieces, mixed up with a large stock of frivolous nonsense. Yet it should be borne in mind, that the articles are mostly written by persons who are not only not professed authors, but who have written without that care and study usually bestowed on compositions for the press, but generally, it is to be presumed, without any premeditation whatever. I shall now cull a few of the writings in the said album, for such of my readers who may feel in > teiested in perusing them : — KIAGAKA. THE FALLS OF NIAGARA. There's nothing great or bright, thou glorious Fall I Thou mayst not to the fancy's sense recall — The thunder.riven cloud, the lightning's leap, The stirrings of the chambers of the deep — Earth's emerald green and many-tinted dyes. The fleecy whiteness of the upper skies, The tread of armies thickening as they come, The boom of cannon and the beat of drum, The brow of beauty and the form of grace, The passion and the prowess of our race. The song of Homer in its loftiest hour, i The unresisting sweep of Roman power, Britannia's trident on the azure sea, America's young shout of liberty ! Oh, mcy the wars tliat madden on these deeps, There spend their rage, nor climb the encirling steeps; And till the conflict of their surges cease The nations on thy banks reposo in peace ! Lord Mohpeth. The wonder of the world, and a world of wonder. Sam. Niagara Falls — got up at immense cost, for the ezhibitio|i of Nature, on a grand scale. A SXRAMOSB IN AmEBICA. I have just returned from under the great sheet of water ; •nd here record it as my deliberate opinion — and opinion is •verythiag— that there is not a finer shower bath in the world ; and what is more, a man must hold his head down whether he will or no; of course it is a good school for '* stiff-necked " people. W. C. B. 86 NIAGABA. "y. Ye prosing poets, who dull rhymes indite, 'Why in this place your leaden nonsense write f Can scenes like these no nobler strain inspire Than vulgar slang and wit whose jokes miss fire f Man's mind is filled with earthly thoughts no more, While wrapt in mist amid Niagara's mighty roar. MiCHIOAH. Now, I'll tell you what it is — these here water works ain't nothin' what they are cracked up to be — be they ? They're a downright imposition — that's a fact. They're amazin' nice and sublime and roarin' sure enough ; but what on airih be they good for? As our schoolmaster. Job Diddler, (he'd an awful sight of larnin', — hadn't he ?) — well, as Job Diddler used to say, " Fox eat Peter Nichol " * — great cry and little wool. They ain't good for nothin' for mann- facturin'; end they completely spile navigation — that's a ttLCi, ' ., Sah Sltck, t/tm. May the mighty waters of the Niagara smother, in their eternal vortex, all the animosities and rancors that may ever have existed between Great Britain and her fair daughter of the West, and remain, to succeeding generations, an everlasting and indestructible monument of the harmony, which, I trust, will never cease to exist between the two nations, (of one blood,) at once the most enterprising and the most enlightened in the world. May 33, 1849. GEoaoE Maib. • Vox etpretera nihil. It';'!, KIAOABA. NIAGARA. Flow on for ever, in thy gloriotis robe Of terror and of beauty. Yea, flow on, Unfathom'd and resistless. God hath set His rainbow on thy forehead, ani the cloud Mantled around thy feet. And He doth give Thy voice of thunder power to speak of Him Eternally — bidding the lip of man Keep silence, and upon thino altar pour Incense of awe-struck praise. Eartli fears to lift The insect trump that tells lier trifling joys Or fleeting triumphs, 'mid the peal sublime Of thy tremendous hymn. Proud Ocean shrinks Back from thy brotherhood, and all his Avaves Retire abash'd. For he hath need to sleep. Sometimes, like a spent labourer, calling home His boisterous billows, from their vexing play, To a long dreary calm : but thy strong tide Faints not, nor e'er with failing heart forgets Its everlasting lesson, night nor day. ' The morning stars, that hail'd creation's birth. Heard thy hoarse anthem mixing with their song, Jehovah's name ; and the dissolving fires, That wait the mandate of the day of doom To wreck the earth, shall find it deep inscribed Upon thy rocky scroll. 87 Lo ! yon birds, Now how bold I they venture near, dipping their wing In all thy mist and foam. Perchance 'tis meet For them to touch thy garment's hem, or stir Thy diamond wreath, who sport upon the cloud Unblamed, or warble at the gate of heaven Withont reproof. But as for us, it seems 88 NIAOAEA. Scarce lawful with our erring lips to talk Familiarly of thee. Methinks to trace Thine awful features with our pencil's point Were but to press on Sinai. Thou dost speak Alone of God, who pour'd thee as a drop From His right hand — bidding the soul that looks Upon thy fearful majesty be still, Be humbly wrapp'd in its own nothingness, And lose itself in Him ! SiaOTJUKK?. Should the British Lion ever come to the Falls of Niagara, he will there see the proud eagle of American Liberty sitting iu his majesty ; and will go roaming down that mighty cataract in despair. If the American Eagle comes to the British side of tho Falls, that same old Lion will pluck his feathers, and eompel him to take shelter behind a cotton bale. The most stupendous work of Nature ! Soul inspiring I T.D.L. TO NIAGARA FALLS. God throughout all Nature to man proclaims His word, And in the Cataract's roar 'tis surely heard ; Behold a giant work of His most matchless pow'rl Tain man look on in awe — be humble from this hour ; Thy homage pay — lift up thy soul above the petty strife. And praise thy God who call'd these waters into li&. Niagara Falls, June 13, 1850. T. D. Lb NZAOiBA. 89 9 The American Falls, on the American side of the river, are separated from the Horse Shoe Fall by a email island, called Goat Island, and though not so large or grand as the latter, possess distinct beauties of their own. They are 900 feet long, and 163 feet high. On. the biink of the precipice between the American Falls and the Horse Shoe Fall, built upon some scattered rocks that seem unable to hold their position against the terrible rush of water, stands a tower, 45 feet high, called Terrapin Tower. From this tower a most magnificent view is obtained of the whole panorama of the Falls, and the world of raging waters around them. It was built in 1833, by Judge Porter, and this commanding position certainly affords the best and most extensive view of any. The meaning of the word Niagara is not pre- cisely known, but is generally supposed to be " of Iroquois extraction, and to signify the Thunder of Water Sy^ — a very appropriate designation indeed. The roar of the Falls is heard at a long distance ; but is of course modified constantly by the direction and force of the wind. From the figures previously given, it will be seen that whilst the Horse Shoe Fall is nearly three times the length of the American Falls, and throws down nearly three times the quantity of water, the latter are very nearly ten feet higher. The Falls of Niagara were first seen by a whjite man, 184 yean ago. One Father Hennepin, a iPranch Jesuit missionary, first beheld them when 90 THE BURNING SPRING. on an expedition of discovery in the yeai' 1678, since which time they have exercised an attractive influence over millions of the human race, and will continue to do so as long as they exist. For myself, I never shall forget the heauty, majesty, and tran- quillity of that ever-pouring mass of water. Though feeble man can never adequately describe this mighty cataract, he cannot look upon it vrithout feelings of the deepest solemnity; for the power and majesty of the Almighty are perhaps more awfully exhibited, and more fully realised in this stupendous Fall, than in any other scene on earth. On the Canadian shore, about two miles distant from the Falls, near the margin of the river and just above the rapids, is a " Burning Spring." This curious spring is much visited, and is indeed very interesting. The water, being charged with sul- phuretted hydrogen gas, takes fire on the application of a light to it, and bams with a pale bluish flame, emitting a strong sulphurous smell. I lighted up the whole surface of the well, and afterwards tasted its water, which though considered to be very salubrious, has a strong smack of sulphur in it, precluding any more than an almost homoepathic dose being taken. In the neighbourhood of this burning spring was fought the battle of Chippewa, on the 5th July, 1814. Betuming from the spring, I paid a visit to the Suspension Bridge over the Niagara. It spans the river at about two miles below the Falls, and is altogether a noble structure, said to be of enormous NIAOAllA. SUSPENSION BRIDGE. 91 strength. It was commenced in 1852, and was constructed by Mr. John A. Reobling, of Trenton, New Jersey, U. S., and forms a communication between Canada and the States, over which the carriages of the Great Western and the New York Central Railways, and vehicles of all description run. The road for carriages and foot passengers is suspended twenty-eight feet below the line of railway. As I stood on the bridge whilst a train crossed, I was surprised at the very great vibration, for I had been given to understand the strength of the Bridge was prodigious, with scarce any vibration. That it combines elegance with strength in an emineat degree, is everywhere stated in America, and this may even be so ; but I mention the strong vibration which I experienced, and so leave the matter. The cost of the Bridge was 500,000 dollars (more than £100,000 sterling), and on the 8th day of March, 1855, the first railway train passed over it. * The following statistics of this enormous bridge may prove of interest : — Length of bridge, 800 feet; width, 24 feet; height above the river, 250 feet; height of the towers on the American side, 88 feet ; those on the Canadian side, 78 feet. There are four enormous wire cables, of about 10 inches diameter, which contain about 4,000 miles of wire; the ultimate capacity of the four cables is about 12,400 tona. The total weight of the bridge is 800 tons. 02 BITFFALO. Previous to tho erection of the present bridge, it was crossed by means of an iron basket slung under a single cable of iron wire. Mr. Charles Elliot was the first who crossed in this way ; this was in 1849, since that, many persons crossed in this manner, being let down the incline and drawn up on the opposite s\dc by a windlass. This iron basket is still to be seen on the Canadian side. Once more crossing the Niagara Suspension Bridge, I proceeded to Buffalo, an important city, with a very extensive trade. Its population is about 80,000, and its situation as a place of business, is most admirable, being at the western extremity of the Erie Canal, and at the eastern termination of the navigation of the great lakes, Erie, Huron, and Michigan. Its harbour is spacious and well pro- tected, and can accommodate several hundreds of vessels. Buffalo was originally laid out by the Holland Land Company in 1801, and was incor- porated as a city in 1832. It lies 22 miles from Kiagara Falls, and 325 miles from Albany, the capital of the State of New York. Its streets are regular and very spacious, whilst its inhabitants are tor the most part Germans and Dutch. It boasts too, of an University, with eight professors, 120 ytudents, and 4,000 volumes in its libraries. At ttie mouth of Buffalo Creek is a mole or pier, 1,500 feet long, which by confining the channel, has so fistr vemoved the bar, that vessels drawing but eight feet of water ban enter freely. BUFFALO. 98 Tho Erie Canal is really a noblo work ; it is about 350 miles long, and connects Bu£falo with Albany, and Albany being on tho Hudson river, which runs to New York, makes the communication complete to tho latter place. Tho canal was constructed in 1834, and at the time was considered a great under- taking, as in truth it was. In the neighbourhood of Buffalo ore some very well built and pretty detached residences, some of them very fine mansions ; and amongst the number is that of Milward Filmore, an ex-President of the United States. Having an introduction to this per- sonage, it was not to bo supposed that I should leave Buffalo without affording myself the gratification of shaidng by the hand and talking with, a live Freai- dent / The fates however had ordered it otherwise. On proceeding with my friend to Mr. Filmore's, we had the disappointment to find that Mr. and Mrs. Filmore were not at home — ^they had gone to New York for a short time ; but with great politeness, (on my Mend explaining that I was an Englishman who much wished to pay my respects to the late President,) we were shown over the house. The paintings and library were of the first order, and the general good taste displayed in the arrangement of everything elicited my admiration. Leaving Buffalo behind, with its shipping and the strange German names of its shopkeepers, I made my next journey to Albany, which, as I hare before mentioned, is the capital of New York State. 94 ALBANY. Albany is Bituatod on the slope of u hill, on the right bank of tho Hudson, and is 145 miles from Now York and 370 miles from Washington. It is chiefly celebrated for its cabinet work, and for the manufacture of all kinds of stoves and grates. Its population is very nearly 58,000. It was founded by the Dutch in 1G23, and by tht^m called Fort Orange, and was chartered as a city as early as 1686. Tho principal street, called State Street, has a steep ascent, at the head of which is the Capitol, a fine edifice, 115 feet long and 90 ^vide. In it are some richly furnished apartments, for the accommo- datioii of the State legislature. The square in front of it is ornamented with walks, trees, and shiiibbery. It boasts of several important public buildings and institutions, amongst which are the Exchange, Medical College, University, Female Academy, the New York State Library. The Medical College has one of the most complete anatomical museums in the United States. Besides the above-named, Albany has forty-eight churches, six banks, and several manufactories. There are eighteen steam- boats plying daily between Albany and New York and other places on the river. To a stranger, Albany has an ancient look about it, for though full of life and bustle, somehow a quiet aristocratic air pervades the place. In coming to Albany I passed through the Mohawk valley, and the icenery from i Syracuse is really beautiful. The railway nms through the valley, and often by the side of the .i RIVER BTKAMUOATK. 95 Mohawk river, wliicli ovcrilowing its Imnks overy six monthH, numuri s tlio land, whiiih in in a high rtlatc of cultivation. IJurley, wlu^at, and Indian corn aro tlie principal crops in the Mohawk district. The time having an-ivcd I'or mc to bo again on tho move — this time I was bound lor New York — tho " Empire City," aa tho Yankees love to call it. Accordingly, I took my passage in one of those largo river steamboats — floating palaces I may call them, — and hero I may as well give my readiTS some idea of the stylo of thing these steamboats arc. Tho " New World " was the name of the vessel on which I embarked, and she was a fair specimen of this class of steamer. For comfort and elegance we have none to compare to them in England, and for a long journey ore all that could be desired. There are thr^c saloons, each above the other, and running tho whole length of the tossoI. These saloons are richly furnished with carpets, sofas, easy chairs, and decorated with velvet and gold ; thej arc also well ventilated, and for aught you know you are in your own drawing-room. They make up variously from 500 to 800 berths, in addition to the private state-rooms. As for the r^eals, they are bountiful, and you are well waited 'pon by negro stewards and waiters, for a negro, let me add, is the most efficient and attentive of waiters. There is always a barber's shop aboard these steamers, hand- somely fitted up, where you not only get your hair cut or trimmed, or cleaned or washed, or your beard ■:l n lUVEB STEAMBOATS. - 1 I shaved by a black barber, but you can also be sup- plied with wines, beer, or spirits, — or say, gin-slings, brandy cock-tails, eye-openers, whisky-skins, or other of the peculiar drinks of America. The reason of the passenger being compelled to resort to the baiber's shop for his *' liquor," is that these steamers being Temperance boats^ you cannot have it served at the table. , Viewed from the outside, these huge vessels are as unwieldly and as ungraceful with their mo chinery working on the top, as they are elegant and com- fortable in their interior arrangements. 'Tis true they sometimes blow up or take fire, but not so often as they used to do a few years ago. The fate of the ** New "World" was accomplished by neither of those cauocs, but she run on a sand-bank a short time after I made my trip in her, and was entirely lost, together with the lives of ten persons. During my passage in her she run on a sand-bank too, which, though it detained us till the rise of tide next morning, luckily did no damage to the vessel. The scenery on the Hudson River is varied and grand, and partakes of the Bhinc character — ^ths mountains on either shore running to a considerable height, and presenting a picturesque appearance from being covered to their summits by small green trees of various hues. A little further down, and we have stupendous rocks, in some cases rearing their jagged heads perpendicularly towards Heav^, and hence the term of Palisades has been given to ! I THE HUDSON UIVEB. 97 them. Still further do^vn, and as we approach New York, villas of snowy whiteness and large Buhstautial red-brick mansions, with pretty green verandahs, stand out in picturesque relief upon the lofty green hill slopes. Well may the Americans be proud of so noble a river, the magnificent scenery of whose banks rivals, if it do not indeed surpass, in natural beauty that of any river in Europe. This beautiful river was discovered in 1609, by Hendrick Hudson, an English navigator in the service of the Dutch East India Company, and in 1614 some Dutch merchants erected a fort, where the city of New York now stands. In 1644 the State passed into the possession of the English, who held it down to the period of the revolution, with the exception of a single year. On board were some very agreeable people, and I much enjoyed the passage ; the pleasure of which, however, was once in danger of being destroyed by a conversation I had with a hot-headed republican of Albany. This gentleman held America to be the model in laws, morality, learning, government, and greatness; added to which he had a bitter hatred of England. Of course I did not quietly assent to all this, but attempted to combat his views of America, and to point out to him some respects m which she was not that pattern of freedom, en- lightenment, and civilisation he would paint her. I also had not much trouble in defending my own country from the aspersions of so violent a politician. 98 AimiVAL AT WEW TOBK. ! The argument went on until my republican friend waxed so warm that he commenced talking to those ai'ound, and publicly denounced England and Englishmen generally. I saw it was time to desist, and quietly infonned this enlightened individual that when a man lost his temper it was time to end all argument. I was aftenvaids told who this person was, and also that he was well known as a politician of the advanced school. So /thought ! Disembarking at New York, which my argumen* tative friend had informed me was a ** smart place,'* I determined to follow his advice, and " keep my eye skinned," during my stay in it. Seeing first, then, that my baggage was safe, I took a hackney carriage and drove to the " St. Nicholas '' hotel, in Broadway. The St. Nicholas is one of those large and splendid hotels so common to the large cities of America, and which are being now attempted in our own country — at any rate in London. It is a fine massive building of white marble, with the best of accommodation and. comfort for 2^ dollars per diem. This fixed price includes bedroom, breakfast, lun- cheon, dinner, tea, and supper, together with the use of drawing-room, reading-room, and smoking- room ; in fact, everything except beer, wine, and spirits. "Whether you partake of all these meals or not it is immaterial to the proprietor — ^the charge is still the same. Moreover, there are no extras at the foot of your bill — ^no servants to pay, nor wax candles charged to vex your temper and upset your iifivMBB kmui-m.k,m.i^iiiM..^^^--i/...'^,., ji.;-.ifi-.ffii.py...ai.(j|.i.:..t, ■ ♦ V H0TEZ.8 OF NEW YOB.K. 99 . ■ I, bile. Private apartments, if preferred, range from 3 to 9 and 10 dollars per day, and for meals supplied in private apartments, the charge is from 3 to 4 dollars per day. But scarcely any persons think of boarding in private rooms, but partake of all their meals in public. For young children, however, there is a separate table d'hote. The St. Nicholas is capable of making up 700 beds, and there are tabh; d'hote dinners at one, four, and five o'clock. These hotels answer well in America, because the American, unlike his English cousin when travelling with his Avife and family, eats and drinks and passes his time — in short, takes up his abode, whether for a long or a short period — at an hotel, the family making their appearance daily at the table d'hote en grand tenne. Indeed, there are many who live •^'ntirely at hotels, thus publicly taking their meals daily throughout the year with strangers from all parts. The English- man, on the other hand, has not generally any relish for table d'hotes; he gi'eatly prefers quiet and Keclusion to the gaze of strangers, and the set formality of these dinners. It is all well enough to dine in public occasionally, but the charm of home is lost when this is done from year's end to yeai-'s end. It must be conceded, however, that the management of these magnificent hotels is ex- cellent in every respect; the beds, breakfasts, dinners, attendance — all being such as to leave no room for even a grumble. The very rapid manner 100 HOTELS OF NEW TOBK. in which the dinners were put on table, and the equal despatch with which they were gone through rather surprised me, but I suppose it must be taken as part of the go-uhead character of the people. After dinner, the gentlemen invariably betake themselves to a cigar. There are many such hotels in New York as the St. Nicholas, and amongst these may be quoted the Metropolitan, the Clarendon, the St. Denis, the Laffarge House, and the Astor House. The last- mentioned is familiar in name to most Englishmen, and though it was once the pride of New York, the more modem built hotels, as for instance the St. Nicholas or the Metropolitan, quite surpass it in both size and splendour. There arc also many buildings besides the hotels which are built of white marble, and of a vast size. Yet somehow they do not present a very imposing aspect, a fault to be ascribed, I think, rather to the style of archi- tecture than to the material. Where they are seen to most advantage is at Fifth Avenue, the Belgravia of New York. These mansions, though not of the size of the hotels in Broadway, are grand, stately, palace-like looking edifices, and the vicinity alto- gether has a luxurious and an aristocratic air. New York, the Metropolis of North America, is situated on Manhattan Island, at the confluence of the Hudson with the East River, inlat. 40- 42' 40", long. 74*» 00' 41" "W. from Greenwich. The harbour is easy of access, spacious, and safe ; it occupies a m '5^ NEW YORK. 101 / circuit of 25 iniles, and is bounded by varied scenery, villages, and oountiy seats, and several pretty island3 are embosomed in its waters. New York has steam and sailing packet communieation with all the principal seaports of America, Europe, Asia, Africa, East and West Indies, and the Pacific Islands. Certainly its admirable position and its facilities for trade, are not surpassed by any city on the American continent, whilst its progress in commerce, wealth, and population, hats no parallel. In 1790 its population was 33,131; in 1800, 60,489 ; in 1810, 96,373 ; in 1820, 123,706 ; in 1830, 202,589; in 1840, 312,710; in 1850, 615,547 ; including Brooklyn, 643,030 ; and in 1855, including its suburbs, upwards of 800,000. These figures sufficiently attest the rapid strides it has made in commercial prosperity. The parks and public squares are worthy of the magnitude of the city and the population thereof. The " Great Central Park " extends from Forty- ninth Street to One-hundred-and-sixth Street, be- tween the Fifth and Eighth Avenues, and its area is said to be 75 acres. "The Park," another lung of New York, lies between Broadway, Chat- ham, and Chambers Streets, and has a triangular area of 10| acres. Again, there is St. John's Park, containing about 4 acres of ground, beautifully laid oat with walks shaded by trees, and ornamented H^ a fountain. Washington Square contains About 10 acres of ground. Union Square, at the 102 N'EW VOAK. t north end of JJroudway, of an elliptical form, is enclosed with a good iror fence, and has a public fountain in the centre with ornamental jets. At the southern teimination of Broadway is the Bowl- ing Green, a lino open space, with a fountain in the centre, also enclosed by an iron railing. The Battery, situated at the junction of the Hudson and East Rivers, is of a crescent form, with about 11 acres of gi'ound tastefully laid out, and from it is obtained a fine view of the Bay, with its islands* and the adjacent shores. The City Hall, the City Buildings, Hali of Ke- <;ords, and the llotunda, are situated in the Park. Besides the above public squares and parks, there is Mttddison Square, neatly planted with trees and u shrubbery, and embellished with a fountain ; also Grammercy Park, and Tompkin's Squapc, both ornamented with trees, and otherwise tastefully arranged. One of the most important works con- ducive to the comfort and health of the residents in New York, is the Croton Aqueduct, which supplies them with the purest of water. This aqueduct commences at the Croton Biver, five miles from the Hudson; it is built of stone, brick, and cement, arched over and under, 6 feet 3 inches wide at the bottom, 7 feet 8 inches at the top of the side walls^ and 8 feet 5 inches high; it has a descent of 13;^ inches per mile, and can discharge 60,000,000 of gallons every twenty-four hours. The dam is 250 feet long, 70 feet wide at the bottom, and 7 at the KKM' YOBK. 103 i ( > top, and is 40 feet high, built of atone and cement. This creates a pond five miles long, covering a sur- face of 400 acres, and containing 500,000,000 gallons of water. From this dam the aqueduct proceeds, crossing valleys by embankments, brooks by culverts, and sometimes travelling through solid rocks till it reaches Harlem River, a distance of thirty-three miles. It crosses Hiirlcm River on a fine stone bridge, 1,450 feet Itfig, supported by fourteen piers. The receiving reservoir is thirty- eight miles from the Croton Bam, covers thirty-five acres, and holds 150,000,000 gallons. The dis- tributing reservoii" covers four acres, and holds 20,000,000 gallons. From this the water is dis- tributed over the city in iron pipes, laid deep enough under ground as to be secure from frost. The whole cost of this splendid work has been about thirteen millions of dollars, or say, £2,600,000 sterling. It is a work of grand conception — skilfully carried out, and '^Ji? of which New York can boast. The most elegant and fashionable street is Broadway, which intersects the city from north to south, and is the great fashionable promenade. It is variously stated to be from three to six mUes long; indeed, I could never get distinctly to comprehend where Broadway commences and where it terminates. Reckoning from the Battery to King's Bridge, it may be considered to be fourteen miles long, just in the same way as we might 104 KEW YORK. consider Oxford Street under that name, to run from the eastern extremity of the city to Notting- hill Gate, or further ; or Piccadilly from Leadenholl Street to Kichmond. But though it certainly is of great length, say nearly three miles in a straight line from Tiinity Church — of brown stone — to Grace Church, an elegant edifice built entirely of white marble — it cannot fairly be said to extend further. Its wid0 is said to bo eighty feet, but I did not thi^k it so wide as this by many feet. However, it is undoubtedly a magnificent street, for the most part comprising handsome stores, as the shops are called, and grand hotels. Many of the stores are built of pure white marble, whilst others are of brown stone, and some of bricks ; the style of architecture being anything but uniform. It is always full of pedestrians and vehicles, and is a busy bustling place — ^in fine, New York appeared to me to be all Broadway. The noise and bustle reminded me of London, at once ; yet the gaily painted omnibuses, and the prevailing French taste, the semi-French fashions, of the passers-by, caused me the next moment to believe myself suddenly transferred to Paris. Yet no, such cannot be, thought I; because ever and anon I heard my native tongue : it is not London nor Paris — it is New York. In language it is English ; fin habits, customs, tastes, it is French. Q It is midway between the two nationalities ;\ it is • the metropolis of Yankeedom. NEW TOKK. 106 It was amusing to me, whilst reflecting on the French habits and tastes of the people, so apparent to a stranger, to road over the stores in Broadway, the familiar home names of Brown, Smith, Jones, Jackson, Thompson, Landon, Brooks, etc.* Despite these n' mes, which forcibly reminded me of home and friends, there was an air of gaiety about every* thing around that car pd a feeling to arise which, amidst all, abided i.'ith me, that J^was in a foreign land. 4 The city of New York has between two and three hundred churches of all denominations ; some of these are of a magnificent and costly nature, whilst many are plain and commodious only. The following are amongst the principal buildings. The Merchants' Exchange, between Wall Street and Hanover Street, is a fine substantial building of granite, 200 feet long by 171 to 144 feet wide, 77 feet high to the top of the cornice, and 124 feet to the top of the dome. It has a portico of eighteen massive pillars fronting on Wall Street. The City Hall, beautifully situated in the Park, is a very fine and striking building, ornamented with colimms rising in regular gradations above each other. The Custom House, a fine specimen of Grecian architecture, of white marble, and is, I believe^ after the model of the Parthenon at Athens. * All of these names are in Broadway. 106 VHW TOBK. The Post Office is a dingy, ancient-looking edifice, at the corner of Cedar and Liberty Streets. In these days of such extensive postal operations, and of the great importance which attaches to them, it surprised me that New York had not a building more convenient, and with more pretensions for its General Post-Office. Of Institutions, there are many. The oldest is Columbia Collegj^ chartered by George II. in 1754, by the name of King's College. It is richly endowed, and is under the direction of the Epis- copalians. Then there are the University of the City of New York, the College of Physicians and Surgeons, the Theological Seminary of the Protes- tant Episcopal Church; the Union Theological Seminary (Presbyterian); the American Institute, incorporated in 1829 for the encouragement of agriculture, commerce, and manufactures. The Free Academy, which affords gratuitous education to the most proficient scholars of the public schools, and is intended to create a staff of qualified teachers for those public schools, is a most excellent insti* tution, and has realised the best expectations of the foimders. Besides these, may be mentioned the Mercantile Library Association for merchants' clerks, the Apprentices' Library ; the National Academy of Design, and the Mechanics' Institute; together with many religious and charitable Institutions. There are upwards of fifty banks in New York ; sixty fire insurance offices; eight life assurance offices ; NIW TO&K. 107 fifteen savings banks ; fifteen markets ; a largo music hull ; and a museum — known as Barnum's. I have said that New York is all Broadway ; it is the centre of fasliion — it is the grand pro- menade; in it are the principal churches, hotels, theatres, stores, wholesale and retail ; and it inter- sects the city from one end to the other — north and south. The streets on either side of Broadway are for the most port dirty, crooked, and narrow, and are not to be compared with those of many of cur provincial towns. Some of them, however, are being widened and improved. Wall Street is a dirty crowded thoroughfare, running from Broadway to the East River, occupied by banks, insurance ofilces, brokers' ofiices ; and is the spot where the merchants congregate, and whore the chief monetary transactions are entered into. The Americans ore the coolest people in the world ; possessed of great energy and determination, and only enthusiastic about theii own country and what belongs thereto. I soon found they had, especially in New York, a bitter, jealous hatred of England, which rather astonished me, as in the ignorance of my heart I had before imagined a very different feeling existed. Ky pre-conceived ideas on this point were soon dissipated into thin air ; for in New York, neither in public assemblies nor in private circles, did I hear a good word for poor old En^and. She leemed q[>ecially marked out for insult and mis- 108 ITKW YORK. ( repruficntation. Whilst this was the case beyond a doubt, I huvo never been able to uccoupt satis* factorily for the prevalence of the feeling. Those who appear to exhibit the greatest sympathy for England are the New Englanders specially, and the American-bom generally next. The naturalised subjects — a large element in America — ore the bitterest foes to England and the English, and of course exercise an influence on the people of their adopted land. And it should not bo forgotten, that New York is the great focus of emigration.* The ladies of America dress most extravagantly. They oro by no means possessed of any great personal charms, and though most of them are very attrac- tive whilst quite young, the freshness and bloom of youth soon vanish, and at middle age they become sallow, grizzle-faced, and lean. This, I apprehend, ii owing partly to the climate, the extensive use of sweets of all kinds, and their inactive mode of life. They are in manner cool and haughty to strangers, and are devoid of that modest lady-like bearing which so distinguishes an English lady. Greater respect is paid to the sex in America than in any^ other country ; and indeed the extent to which it is exacted is sometimes most unnecessary and incoii* • Lord Maoaulay has said, "a people which takes no pride in the aohievements of remote ancestors, will never do anything worthy of remembrance by remote de»i* MBdants." NKW YORK. 109 Tenient. Morality iii Now York is at u low obb, Rnd HconcH taku place there which are a diNgruce to civil iRation. Muitlors are of alinoBt daily or nightly occurrence ; and many a poor houI is foully assas- Binatcd without any clue being had to the per- petrators of the crime. Only very recently, ** two women httV(^ been * found drowned * at New York ; one no doubt murdered, as she was moored to a barrel of pitch. Their bodies were viewed by persons representing no fewer than thirty females who had mysteriously disappeared ! " This will give a faint idea of the state of society and morals in the Empire City. The American does not like a disapproval of anything American ; indeed, he smarts under it even if he do not become downright angry; and yet if you happen to praise America and her institutions, he seems to regard your assertion with an unmistakcable degroo of doubt and suspicion. The Southerners are a very difterent people to their bretlu'cn of the North. This was very soon apparent to me, and the more I saw and associated with the former, the more I was favourably impressed with them ; and when I mentioned my predelictions to my friends in England on my retura, I was by most of them supposed to have taken a wrong view of the character of the two. I said then and I say now, that the North and South sire distinct peoples — differing in character, in mode of life, and with totally opposite feelings and no NORTH AND SOtTTH. ;f opinions. The war now being waged between them with such bitterness and severity, has not in the slightest degree altered the opinion I had formed ; indeed, it has confirmed in a remarkable 'egree the high standai^d I h|id placed upon the Southern character. I found the Southerners conservative in their political views — ^having generally a higher regard for England than the Northerners — and possessed of a sense of honor and integrity of character, which contrasts favourably with the Yankees. Though equally shrewd, they are not characterised by that go-aheadiveness so peculiar to the North- erners, and which indeed has not proved so advan- tageous to the country as is so commonly believed. To me, it seems as though the rapid prosperity which America ha^ attained has caused her people to lose their sober reason, and mad with prosperity and power, they have drifted into an ovcrbeaiing and unscrupulous race. With all the ills and horrors incident to civil war, and whilst deeply deploring the awful sacri- fice of \ife which this war has and will create, I cannot help thinking that the Northern and Eastern States will I earn a lesson from it, that will be of greftt benefit to them and the succeeding gene- rations. At any rate, they will learn to value peace ; and if the South shoidd succeed in securing her separation and independence — as I do not doubt she will — there will not be so much danger NORTH AND SOUTH. Ill of Canada being forcibly annexed to the United States, or of England receiving the sound thrashing from them so often promised. History a£fords the knowledge that all great and powerful nations have their season of civil war, out of which they emerge with a sad expenence which tends to make the people more peace-loving, and brings about an improved system of government. So let me hope it may be with the American States; If a separation of the North and South do take place, as I believe it must, I do not sec why an honest rivalry in the arts and com.mercc, should not spring up between them, to the interests of them- selves and for the benefit of Europe. The history of Europe — -indeed I may say of the world — ^has been a series of acquisitions and dismemberments. The United States have been extending ever since their independence, until at last the territory has become so vast — ^the interests of the community so various and conflicting, — ^that a breach, and ultimate dismemberment, must ensue. As we lost our American possessions from these causes, so will the United States divide into two if not three separate kingdoms. Wisely has England therefore adopted the policy of allowing her colonial possessions (as for instance, Canada, Aus- tralia, &c.), to gradually make themselves free of her, to the interest and advantage of both, and to the peace of the world. ^ 112 NOBTn AND SOUTH. ii The Northern States may bo termed the manu- facturing portion, whilst the Southern ones are purely agricultural or productive ; and here at the outset is a reason for their interests being inimical. The South being the profTacers, and the North having the carrying tr«ide, all the commerce of America is or was ixi the hands of merchants of the North,^ who took care of themselves, and have always made the South pay dearly for their European imports. The South naturally became dissatisfied with this state of things, and thought they could manage better for themselves. Then again, the North has for years avowed itself opposed to slavery, though it has never evinced any prac- tical illustration of its sincerity, or they would have long ago allowed the mutual right of search. It may be all very well to declaim against slavery — this is one thing; but when the free black is treated like a pariah, as he is in the North — where his very presence is looked upon as contaminative — there clearly can be little sympathy, sincerity, or Christianity. The position of the poor black citizen of the North is degrading to flesh and blood; and when it is remembered that such is the treatment , of him in the free States — ^that the abolitionist will not so much as walk on the same side of the street, ; if he can help it, or enter the same railway com-^ partment with him, — need I ask whether his life as a slave in the South is not far happier and pre- ferable beyond all dispute. The fact is, that the NORTH AND HOUTK. 113 question of slavery, as such, had nothing whatever to do with the cause of the present coniiict us fur , as the Northerners or Unionists were con(;erncd. They fight for the entirety of the Union. The . confiscation scheme of the Washington cabinet — ^by which the slaves and property of the seoAxled i States were confiscated, whilst these rights were not interfered with in those States remaining in the Union, did not, I think, evidence much zeal or sincerity in the cause of emancipation — though it clearly demonstrated the spirit by which the Government was actuated. Theory is one thing, practice is quite another matter; and I contend, that to talk of freedom for the slave and to deny it « tc him in practice, is the height of h3rpocriBy, and is moreover transparent insincerity. No enlightened mind can for a moment uphold the institution of slavery — ^though it may be, that in most cases the black slave is well fed and cared for. But regarded from the abolitionist point of view, I say it amounts to nothing. Give the free black education, and the same rights of citizenship as is accorded to all others in the Union, and something may be made of him in a generation or two. Do this^ and above allf eea%e the traffic in slaves — ^that most iiJiuman commerce, that "shame of freedom," and then, but not till then, may the Northerners talk against slavery. For my own part, I firmly believe that the Southerners are sincerer abolitionists at heart than any of the Northern demagogues, and that if 114 KOIITH AND SOUTH. they gain their independence, they will ere long devise some gradual scheme of emancipation. Mr. Lincoln, by his long and ill-considered emancipation ' proclamation, verified the saying of " locking the stable door after the horse is stolen." It is too late. The South is virtually free, and he can no more execute his laws and edicts in the South, than Queen Victoria can curry into effect legislation for France. The South has already given indications of a liberal policy, and of the desire to claim the respect of the civilised world ; and though the sacrifice f may be a great one to the^ slave-owners, the ^ Southern government, it is hoped, will by con- tinuing a progressive and enlightened legislation for her people, follow up her independence by gradually removing the blnck spot of slavery from the soil. I say gradually , because I do not believe that any other than a gradual scheme for the emancipation of the slave would be acceptable or could be put into operation. '"' The policy of the present Lincoln government of prosecuting an useless war by slaughter and con- fiscation, in which the North has throughout come «>ff second best — of preaching the indivisibility of the Union, whilst it is actually divided, exhibits to the world a spectacle of recklessness and insanity, rarely met with in history. The financial position, too, of the Union States is in consequence most deplorable, New York stato- tt KOBTH AND SOUTH. UB ments to the contrary notwithstanding. Mr. Chase, by his numerous "pet schemes" of paper finance and taxation, has managed to meet the current expenses of the war so far ; but at what a cost to the country ! The next generation will suffer more than the present by Mr. Giase's dextrous contrivances, so that his memory will indeed be d$ar to posterity. And with respect to the military capacity, the Korth has been singularly unfortunate. The war has not produced one general above mediocrity, whilst the South has been conspicuous for the abundance of the article. McClellan showed the most judgment, because he never seemed ready or inclined for fighting, knowing full well, perhaps, that his army was neither animated by the same intense feelings, nor to be compared with the enemy in point of discipline. His command appeared to be characterised by a fixed idea on his part, that if he achieved nothing brilliant, and risked nothing that would be likely to lead to a reverse, he could not j eopardise his military reputation. Moreover, he was undoubtedly hampered by the War Department, where jealous feelings existed against him. By the news received lately, and by indications of an immis- takeablo nature in the North, it appears tolerably clear that the war will not continue much longer. All Europe will rejoice at the termination of so reckless and useless a sacrifice of life, as it has caused. But whether separation is agreed to upon 116 NOBTn AND 80UTH. ii' a certain basis decided upon between the contending parties themselves, or by means of European inter- vention, it matters little ; the South has tnarked out a destiny for itselfy and it must he^ in futwre^ a distinct and separate Power. I will now pass over the subject of North and South, and revert back to my j oumey . One morning I made up my mind to leave New York, and to take the railway cars to Philadelphia — a place I •much wished to see, on account of its past historic associations, and its present commercial importance. Philadelphia is a Scriptural name, composed of two Greek words, signifying brotherly love. In the Revelations, St. John, we are told, was in- itructcd to write a consolatory Epistle to the f< Church in Philadelphia," a city of Asia Minor^ distant about seventy-two miles from Smyrna. The modem Philadelphia was founded in 1682-3, by William Penn, who came to America with a colony of Friends, or Quakers, to settle a tract of }and which had been granted to him by Charles II. in liquidation of a debt the government owed his father. It was the seat of the Federal Government till the year 1800. It is now the second city in the United States, and though no census has been taken since 1850, its present population is supposed to be 9ot far] short of 600,000. It is situated on a level plain between two rivers, viz. the Delaware and tiie (Schuylkill, six mUes above their junction, and yearly one hundred miles from the ocean by the PHILADELPHIA. 117 course of the river. The suhurhs of Philadelphia are divided into districts, as Spring Garden, Ken- sington, Northern Liberties, Southwark, Moya- memsing, and West Philadelphia, and ore thickly populated. In framing the plan of the city, Penn is supposed to have had in view the celebrated city of Babylon . he certainly imitated it in the regulaiity of the streets, and it seemed he was desirous of emulating it in size, for he gave orders to lay out a town that would have covered an area of 8,000 acres. What- ever may have been Penn's ideas and aspirations, Philadelphia is now a charming city, with avenues and streets spacious, elegant, and clean. The houses are mostly of red brick, of great neatness and uniformity ; with public buildings of white ' marble, iron, granite, and sandstone of great archi- tectural beauty, and there are many delightful suburban residences, surrounded by handsomely laid-out grounds. It is said to be the healthiest- oity in the Union, — and it is one of the handsomest ajid most flourishing. The shops are generally- large, and tastefully decorated, and there is a gay and pleasant aspect amid the bustle of the streets. Altogether, I was enraptured with the "city of brotherly love," and if I were to choose a residence ia America, I should make my way to Philadelphia. If its citizens have reason to boast of the elegance of its andiitecture, and to appreciate the scenes of Bfttural bcaaty in the vicinity, they can point with tie PHILADXLPHIA. /-, no less pride to the number and superiority of its charitable institutions, the excellence of its schools, its eminence in the fine and the mechanical arts, and the celebrity of its Forum and medical schools. Philadelphia is a great manufacturing city, and a centre of wealth and population. The book manufacture and ornamental printing and cngraWng, is a very important branch of industry. Largo iron-works and foundries, and locomotive works ore numerous, and machinery of all kinds is manu- factured in Philadelphia ; whilst in the neighbour- hood are several very fine marble quarries, the marble from which in its preparation affords a prominent and a flourishing pursuit to many. Here, too, ore built the largest ships of war for the United States navy, and a great coal trade is carried on in the vicinity of the city and throughout all Pennsylvania. There ai'e also many distilleries and breweries, and Philadelphia ale has a deserved reputation in every maiket in the Union. It has woollen fac- tories, cotton factories, carpet factories ; woollen^ hosieiy, and- fancy goods factories; the distinctive, feature of the dry goods manufacture being hand-^ loom weaving^ The material is furnished by the manufacturers, and the weavers are paid by the yard. The weaving is either done in the house of the operator, or, in some instances, the manu- facturer has ten or a dozen looms in a. wooden' building attached to his dwelling, and employs ,.^....-j^^.^^,j ^^,.. — ^..^.^.^.^ PUILADELPniA. 119 joumpymen weavers, — soinotlmes boarding aad lod'^liip: in tho same house as their employer. Besides the foregoing, there are glas^ and bottle factories, dyeing works, and boot and shoe factories. I have now enumerated the chief manufactures, and from these some idea may be formed of tho com- mercial position and importance of Philadelphia. I have spoken of the number of charitable insti* tutions in the city, and amongst these should bo first noticed *' Girard College," for educating poor orphan boys. This excellent charity was founded by one, Stephen Giranl, " mariner and merchant,*' who in December, 1831, died worth nearly 10,000,000 dollars, and bequeathed, by his will, amongst other large sums to public purposes, tho sum of 2,000,000 dollars for the erection of such college. It is a splendid pile of white marble, on the model of a Grecian temple, and one of the finest public buildings in America. The Bible is read to the boys every night and morningi but no priest or clergyman is admitted ; this being one of the conditions in Girard*s will. In the entrance hall to the College, is tho statue of Girard, under which is a sarcophagus, containing his remains, it being another wish of his not to be buried in con- secrated ground. There are 300 boys in the College, receiving the benefit of a good plain, useful education, through the munificent bequest of Stephen Girard, — once a poor boy of Philadelphia. There are also to be mentioned a Hospital, a I t (I ;■• ^ / '. 18Q PHILADELPHIA. Deaf and Dumb Institution ; a Blind Asylum ; an Insane Asylum, for 300 patients of both sexes ; and an Almshouse — a huge building covering ten acres of ground, and capable of containing 3,000 persons, the accommodation for whom is excelleat. There are no less than 280 churches of all denominations, in which the white man can worship Ood after his own heart and conscience ; and nine- teen where the man of colour — ^the negro— -may do the same. Some of these churches are fine specimens of architecture, and are a great omiment to the city. The Roman Catholics are erecting a cathedral to be called St. Peter and St. Paul, which when finished will cost 500,000 dollars, and vnU be one of the most magnificent chxirch edifices in the country. There are 304 school-houses, eight medical schools, a High School, a Polytechnic College, Custom House, Erchange, eighteen Banks, Mint, Navy Tazd, Naval Asylum; three Arsenals, eleven Market-places; Academies of Music, Fine Arts, and Natural Sciences; an Athenaeum, a Club House ; several Libraries ; three Theatres ; a splendid Masonic Hall, grander than any Masonic rooms in England, where are shown the chair and apron ai .Washington, who was high in the fraternity. Of Fublio Hidls there are fifteen ; seven Gas Works, five Water Works ; a County Prison ; two Houses of Befoge; a Penitentiary; fourteen Cemeteries; nine Bailway Depots ; ninety Fire-engine Houses ; PmLiOlLPHIA. 121 ■eronteen Station Houses ; and three Race Couimw. The city is principally supplied with water by extensive steam works at Fairmount, two miles distant, which well repay a visit. The total cost of these works has been 3,500,000 dollars. The first Congress in America assembled at Philadelphia in 1774, and adopted the ''Declaration of Eights," as it was called. Oeorge Washington also resided in the Quakw oity when President of the United States; and here, too, the plain, mild, philosophic Fran .Jn lived and passed through the successive offices and appointments his genius and force of character obtained for him. The Declaration of Independence was signed and proclaimed at Philadelphia, and read from a stand on the State Court House, by Captain John Hopkinii on July 4th, 1776. The stranger is shown the bell that at the time was suspended above the State House, and which pealed forth the joyful news of American independence. The inscription around the bell is dwelt upon as curiously verifying, some fifteen years after, the words thereof: — " Proelaim UberUf thnmghout ths lands, and to all the peopUi tktreof.*^ The bell, in the course of time, through aome mischance got cracked, and all attempts to lemedy the defect have been made without successi •0 being sacred in the eyes of an American bom, il it carefully preserved on a marble pedestal in the State HouM^ and another bell hangs in its plaee* ^ i ^ 133 PHILADILPIIIA. I haye since wondered whether the cracking of the belly which has so unaccountably taken place, is (as in the case of the inscription) to be considered as significant of the ** cracking/' or dividing of that same Union of people whose independence it announced. It would seem to be so. The Convention which passed the present Oon- stitution of the United States, met in Philadelphia, Hay, 1787, and thu first bank established in the Union was opened in this city, July 17th, 1780. The first Mint, also, was established here by Act of Congress, passed in 1793. As in New York, horse tramways, on which omnibuses run, are laid down in the principal thoroughfares and streets; for though they have not, nor cannot, succeed in crowded London, they certainly appear to serve admirably here. From the old dock-tower of the State House a fine view is obtained of the city and its picturesque suburbs. The citizens of Philadelphia in their social oharactoristics, differ greatly from their New York brethren. I found them more substantial and less jhowy than the I/ew York people; practical in their views, diligmt and straightforward in their business transactions ; zealous in the cause of firee education, and constitutionally prudent and de** liberate, eschewing all clap-trappery, slap-dashery, and the like. So if I like Philadelphia city for its elegance, and the attractions it possesses for a ^1^ AMKB[CAK RAILWAY CARS. 123 itrangcr, I equally admiro the inhabitantii of Franklin's city tor tho good qualitien which chaructorize them. I wus indebted to the kindnoM and coui'teny of ft resident, Mr. P. A. Harding (to whom I carried a letter of introduction fVom Buffalo), for the facility with which I saw all worthy of notice in Phila- delphia ; and I have pleasure in here recording my ■ense of his kindness and attention. I left Philadelphia to return to New York, and I did so with regret ; for I hod formed an attach- ment for Philadelphia and its people, and often my mind has since wandered back to Chesnut and Walnut Streets, and the pleasant avenues of this delightful city. As I am now about to enter the railway " cars," as the carriages are termed in America, it would be in place if I give some account of them, and in what respect they differ from ours in England. These ^