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Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent Atre filmto A des taux de reduction diff Arents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour hfe raproduit en un seul clichA, il est filmA A partir de i'angle supArieur gauche, de gauche A droite. et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images nAcessaire. Les diagrammas suivants illustrant la mAthoda. 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 ROUND THE L'"-'* VOYAGE W O R D. Poiformcd by Order of HIS MOST CHRISTIAN MAJESTY, In the Years 1766, 1767, 1768, and 1769. B Y LEWIS DE BOUGAINVILLE, Colonel of Foot, and Commodore of the Expedition, in the Frigate La Boudeufe, and the Store-(hip L'Etoile. Tranflatcd from the Frencli Cy JOHN REINHOLD FORSTER, F. A. S. LONDON, Prlntcilfor J. NoURSE, Bookfeller to H I S MAJESTY, in the Strand : and T. Davies, Bookfeller to the Royal Academy, inRuflel-fticet,Covem-garden. MDCCLXXir. ^ 1 P 1 V > It ft;"5n I, .j« » lU c^' -'!;;' M.J.J d re r< tfC / JiVr urn 'vlj ^YJ^,^o<^ ^,,>,^;| ..^ ^^^ ..j^^_^ ■i.ii»'^lj'. jp: ^ '-■*■( ^ %J i> f, y A i"'; T O JAMES WEST, Esq. High Steward of St. Alban's, Recorder of Pool, AND President of the Royal So CI ET Y. SIR, I Beg leave to offer you the Tranflation or a Work written by a learned, in- telligent, and judicious Traveller, which abounds with remarkable events and curi- ous obfervations 5 equally inftrudliive to future navigators, andinterefting to fcicnce in general, and Geography in particular. The place you occupy with great ho- nour in the Royal Society, the zeal with which you promote and countenance what- ever has a tendency towards the advance. •^ 2, ment IV DEDICATION. ment of Science, and tlic remarkable kind- nefs and favour you always have treated me with, encourage me to prefix your name to this publication. Accept then, Sir, this public acknow- ledgement of the deep fcnfe of gratitude and attachment your benevolence has raifed, with the fincereft wifhes for your health, profperity, and the enjoyment of every in- telleftual and moral pleafure. Believe me to be, with the trueft efteem, '•' 11 !.'■■ v-»*i. . SIR, ' - Your moft obliged. ■urn ^-\- v .; and obedient .<;i humble fervant. ■'-jiii JOHN REINHOLD FORSTER, > I / :»..'; ( ji THE n H . ( / •, TRANSLATOR'S PREFACE. H ■, I , « -« . J »^ p } }rrh:: TH E prcfent tranflation of Mr. de Bougainville's I Voyage round the World merits, in more th?in Qne refpec^, the attention of the public, ""'n' ■f '1 . j^j" * .'j j iJ(j / 'a^'fll/i .!,??! Circumnavigations of the globe have been of late the univerfil topics of all companies : every one takes upon him to be a competent judge in matters which very few undcrftand, nioftly for want of ^ ,od and authentic information : this work will enable the reader to judge with greater preciiion of the vague difcourfcs held on this fubjed:. **.'^iK>» '(''ill It/Ol? ' i Nautical advices and obfervatlons are always intc- refting, from whatever quarter they may happen to come, provided they are communicated by a man of known abilities ; and nobody, we think, will quef- tion thofe of Mr. de Bougainville. The fuperiority of the Britidi difcoveries in the great ocean, between America and Afia, cannot be >''jrB^oi njo(, 6 ■i r/'TfO! afcer- ?i PREFACE. 1 1 III 1 afccrtaincd, unlcfs by an authentic account of the dif- coverics of the rival nation ; who, after a great exer- tion, and the advantage of being fupplicd by the Spa- niards with all the nccelTaries at a great dirtancc from home, before they entered the South Pacific Ocean, however difcovered very little ; and what they difco- vercd, had partly been fcen by Englifh navigators, or fomc Spanifh ones of older date •, fo that the honour of the greateft difcovcries made within two centuries, in thofe remote fcas, is entirely rcferved to the Britifli nation, and their fpirit and perfeverance in condud- , mg this great and interelting event. The envious and fcandalous behaviour of the Por- tugucfe viceroy, at Rio de Janeiro, towards our phi- lofophers, which will for ever brand that mean bar- barian with indelible ignominy, is confirmed by a fimi- lar adl of defpotic barbarifm towards another nation, related in this work. The French, who are (b remarkable for the grav- ings with which tlicy ornamcnf; their principal publications, will find, that the charts joined to this tranflation, though reduced to a fixtccnth part of the furfacc of the originals, are, however, infinitely fupcrior to them in point of neapiefs, convenience, and accuracy. p k H ■ PREFACE. accuracy. Without being Icfs ufcful, we have con- nected, in our charts, the whole run of their fhips, from the beginning of their difcoveries to Batavia* The chart of the Magellanic Straits is of the fame fize, and upon the fame fcale as in the original, bu( ' more accurate ; and the names by which the Englidi call the feveral points of land, the bays and the reaches, are all added to the French names. The omiflion of the charts of Rio de la Plata, and of the Falkland Iflcs, is by no means an impcrfcdion ; becaufc, very lately^ two charts have been publifhed in England, o. e equally good of the firft, and a better one of the latter ; it would therefore be needlefs to multiply the identical charts, or to give the public fome imperfedl ones. i Though Mr. de Bougainville is a man of undoubt*- :i cd veracity and abilities, he has, however, in a few iiiftances, been mifled by falfe reports, or prejudiced in favour of his nation : we have, in fome additional notes, correded as fer as it was in our power thefe miftakes, and impartially vindicated the Britifh nation, where we thought the author had been lin'-^^^ juftly partial; for the love of one's country is, in our ^^^ opinion, very confiftent with common juftice aftd good ^i viii PREFACE. breeding ; qualities which never fliould be vvaating in a philolopher. . , Our author endeavours to make it highly probable, that the IpicL'-trade, which has hitherto been the great iourcc of the grandeur and wealth of the Dutch Ua([ India Company, will foon be divided among them, the French, and the Englidi. We have reafon to believe the French to be in a lair way of getting the Ipices in their plantations, as Mr.de Poivre has actually planted at Klc de France fomc hundreds ol clove and nutmeg-trees. Every true patriot will join in the wiih, that our Englifh Eafl India Company, prompted by a noble zeal for the improvement of na- tural hiflory, and every other ufeful branch of know- ledge, might fend a fet of men properly acquainted with mathematics, natural hii^ory, phyfic, and other branches of literature, to their vaft pofleflions in the Indies, and every other place where their navigations extend, and enable them to colkdt all kinds of ufe- ful and curious informations; to gather fofTils, plants, feeds, and animals, peculiar tj thcfo regions ; to ob- fcrve the manners, cuftoni>, learning, and religion of the various nations of the Iiafl : to dcfciibc their acrri- culture, manufaelures, and commerce; to purchafe Hebrew. PREFACE. ir Hebrew, Perfinn, Braminic manufcripti, and fuch as are written in the various cliaradcrs, dialedJs, and languages o( the different nations ; to make obfcrva- tions on the climate and conftitiition of the various countries ; the Iicat and moifturc of the air, the falu- brity and noxioufncTs of the place, the remedies ufual in the difcafes of hot countries, and various other fub- jcdls. A plan of this nature, once fct on foot in a judicious manner, w.)uld not only do honour to the Eaft India Company, but it muft at the fame time become a means of difcovcring many new and ufcful branches of trade and commerce; and there is like- wife the higheft probability, that fome unfearchcd ifland, with which the Eaftern Seas abound, might produce the various fpiccs, which would greatly add to the rich returns of the Indian cargoes, and amply repay the cxpcnces caufed by fuch an cj^pe- dition. % I -ii) irj.i ,/ Mr. dc Bougainville's work abounds in marine phra- fes, which makes the tranflation of it very difficult, even to a native ; but a foreigner, and a man unac- quainted with nautical affairs, mufl be under Hill greater difficulties : wc fhculd have been under tliis predicament, had it not been for t-ie kind rfTi- a Aancc il: i t! < PREFACE. fiance of two worthy friends, who not only enabled ns to do juftice to the original, but alfo to make the whole intelJigiblc to men converfant with navigation : it is therefore no more thui. juftice to acknowledge this favour publicly*. , I vfn I • We have thought proper to omit M. Pcreire*s difcourfe on the nature of the Iang;agc of Taiti, a? being a very trifling performance, founded on the imperfed Yocabulary, and defn^ive pronunciation of Aotourou. I ' i M , •'."T ;,' ■ f 1 '.V •' • '■* ic I : ;r; v*', I I ) ( ■ 1^ 1 1. Mil" i , ', t . J . .1 I . ,'.) 'j / . ; ir vm-tmmnvM't < ' twnm—u ia i i imrj. h t' ',) ^1 'i> Ari INTRODUCTION. 'fi*'*' I THINK it would be of ufe to give, at the head of my relation, an account of all the voyages that ever were performed round the world, and of the different difcoveries which have hitherto been made in the South Sea or Pacific Ocean. - h^ *^'>'^^'— >uu5f;.' Ferdinand Magalhaens, a Portuguefe, commanding five Spaniai Ihips, left Seville in 15 19, difcovered the ftraits which bear his name, and through them he came into the Pacific Ocean, where he firft difcovered iwo little defart ifles, on the fouth fide of the Line, afterwards the Ladrones, and laft of all the Philippines! His fliip, called la Vi(5toria, was the only one out of the five that returned to Spain by the Cape of Good Hope : On her remrn ihe was carried on fliore at Seville, and fct up as a monument of this expedition, which was the boldeft that had hitherto been undertaken by men. Thus it was for the firft time phyfically demonftrated that the earth was of a fpherical figure, and its circum^ ference afcertained. 3ir Francis Drake, an Englifiiman, fet fail from Plymouth, with fivefliips, the ij-th of September, 1577 and returned thither with only one, the 3d of Novem ' ^r ber, H .4; $xi INTRODUCTION. ber, I s 80. He was the fecond that failed round the world. Queen Elizabeth dined on board bis ihip, called the Pelican, which was afterwards preferved in a dock, at Deptford, with a very honourable infcription on the main-maft. The difcoveries attributed to Drake arc very precarious. The charts of the South Seas contain a coaft which is placed below the polar circle, fome' iiles to the north of the Line, and likewife New Albion to the north, ■ - ' Sir Thomas Cavendifti, an Englifhman, left Plymouth the 2ift of July, 1586, with three ihipa, and returned with two on the 9th of September, 1588. This voy- age, which was the third round tlie world, was pro- du(^ive of no new difcoveries. s;. Oliver Van Noort, a Dutchman, failed from Rotter- dam the 2d of July, 1598, with four fliips, paHed through the flraits of Magalhaens, faikd along the weftern coafts of America, from whence he w nt to the Ladrones, the Philippines, the Moluccas, the Cape of C^ood Hope, and returned to Rotterdam with one fliip the 26 th of Auguft, i6oi. He made no diitoveries in> the Jouth Seas. - George Spilberg, a Dutchman, failed from Zfecland- the 8th of Auguft, 16 14, with fix ihips ; he loft two (hips before he came to the ftraits of Magalhaens, paflcd trough tliepti, attacked feveral places on the coafts of Peru ''\ INTRODUCTION. xia Peru and Mexico ; from whence, witho it difcovcring any thing on his courfe, he failed to the Ladrones and Mo- luccas. Two of his fliips re-entered the ports of Hol- land, on the firft of July, i^i 7. James Lemaire and William Cornelius Schonten im- mortalized their names much about the fame time* They failed from the Texel the 14th of June, 16 15, with the iliips Concord and Horn, difcovered the llraits that bear the name of Lemaire, and were the firft that ever entered the South Seas by doubling Cape Horn. In that ocean they difcovered the Iflc of Dogs, in 1 5° i / fouth latitude, and about 142° weft longitude from Paris ; the Ifle without Bottom {Zonder Grond) in 1 5° fouth latitude, one hundred leagues wcftward : Water Ifland in 14^46' fouth latitude, and fifteen leagues more to the weft J at twenty leagues weftward of this, Fly Ifland, in 16^ \ o fouth latitude ; and between 17^** and 175° weft longitude from Paris, two ifles, which they called Cocos and Traitor's ; fifty leagues more weft- ward, the iflc of Hope; next the Ifle of Horn, in 14° 5 6' fouth latitude, and about i 7 9° eaft longitude from . Paris ; they then coalled New Guinea, pafTed between its weftcrn extremity and the Ifle of Gilolo, and arrived at Batavia in oaober i 6 1 6. George Spilberg fiopped^ them there, and they were fcnt to Europe, c 1 jbo^rd the Eaft India company's fliips ^, Lcrriiire died ot'a fidinef: 4f at: .u XIV INTRODUCTION. 'ii at the Ifle of Mauritius ; Schouien returned to his coun- try ; the Concord and Horn came back in two years and ten days. • ^' " ' ' • ' ' ' ' ' "" James rHermitc, a Dutchman, commanding a fleet of eleven fliips, failed in 1623, with the fcheme of making the conqueft of Peru ; he got into the South Seas round Cape Horn, and harrafled the Spanilh coafts, from whence he went to the Ladrones, and thence to Batavia, without making any difcoveries in the South Seas. He died, after clearing the ftraits of Sonda ; and his (hip, almoft tlie only one of the whole fleet, arrived in the Texel the 9th of July, 1626. - ' - ^ In 1683, Cowley, an Englifliman, failed from Vir- ginia, doubled Cape Horn, made feveral attacks upon the Spanifti coafts, came to the Ladrones, and returned to England by the Cape of Good Hope, where he ar- rived on the 12th of 0<5lober, 1686. This navigator has made no difcoveries in the South Seas ; he pretends to have found out the Ifle of Pepis in the North Sea *, in 47° fouthern latitude, about eighty leagues from the coafl: of Patagonia ; I have fought it three times, and :he Englifli twice, without finding it. ♦ Noiih Sea fignifies here the Atlantic Ocean, and i» put in oppofition to South Sea ; the former taking in the ocean or. this fide the Magellanic ftraits, the latter that which is weft of them. Tht .ippcllation, though fomcwhat improper, by calling the feu ahnut the fouth pole the North Sea, is however fometimc* cm- ployed hj lomc writers. F. , Woodes 1^ .a fl INTRODUCTION. Woodes Rogers, an Englifhman, left Briflol the 2(1 of Auguft, 1708, doubled Cape Horn, attacked the Spanifli coaft up to California, from whence he took the fame courfe which had already been taken feveral times before him, went to the Ladroncs, iMoluccas, Ba- tavia, and doubling the Cape of Good Hope, he arrived in the Downs the firft of 0(5lober, 1 7 1 1 . Ten years after, Roggewein, a Dutchman, left the Texel, with three ihips ; he came into the South Seas round Cape Horn, fought for Davis's Land without finding it ; difcovered to the fouth of the Tropic of Ca- pricorn, an ifle which he called Eafler Ifland, the lati- tude of which is uncertain j then, between 15° and 16° fouth latitude, the Pernicious Iflcs, where he loft one of his (hips ; afterwards, much about the fame latitude, the ifles Aurora, Vefper, the Labyrinth compofed of fix illands, and Recreation Ifland, where he touched at. He next difcovered three ifles in 1 2° fouth, which he called the Bauman's Ifles; and laftly, in 1 1° louth, the Ifles of Tienhoven and Groningen j then failing along New Guinea and Papua, he came at length to Batavia, where his fliips were confifcated. Admiral Roggewein returned to Holland, on board a Dutch India-man, and arrived in the Texel the nth of July, 1 723, fix hun- dred and eighty days after his ugainville's lift of circumnavigators is very imperfe£l, vre will en- deavour to givi 7 more complcat one in few words. I. Fernando Magalhaens, 1519- ■• ■ I. Sir Francis Drake failed from Plymouth the 15th of November, 1577, but was obliged to put back on account of a ftorm ; after which, he fet fail agiin the 13th of December, and ret rned the i6th of September, 1580. 3. Sir Thomas Cavendirti, 1586—88. 1*1 ' '* \' 4. Simon de Cordcs, a Dutchman, failed in 1598— 1600. , 5. Oliver Van Noort failed the 13th of September, 1598, and returned the 22d of Auguft, 160T. ^^ , , 6. George Spielbergen, a German in the Dutch fervicc, 1614 — 1617. 7. William Cornelius Schouten with Jacob Le Maire, 1615 — 1617, J >* ,i 8. Jacob I'Hermite with John Hugo Schapeuham failed from Goeree, in the province of Holland, the 29th of April, 1623, and arrived in the TVxel the 9th of July, 1626. 9. Henry Brouwer, a Dutchman, in 1643. ' * *.* 10 Cowley, in 1683 — 1686. II. William Dampier, an Englifhman, failed in. 1689, and returned 1691. He has been omitted by M. de Bougainville in the lift of circuinna\^gators, becaufe he did not go round the world in one and the Came ft>ip.. ^. • » »-. ^^ ,%. l 12. Bcauchefnc Oouin, m 1699. 13. Edward Cooke, an Englifliman, made the voyage in the years 1708 and 1711. - •' ' >t b 14. Woodca xvm I N T R D TT C T r N. a: ■ ill ir^3 ;i French nation, and that only fix of them have been made with the fpirit oF difcovery ; viz. thofe of Magal- hacns, Drake, Le Maire, Roggewcin, Byron, and Wal- lace ; the other navigators, who had no other view than to enrich themfelves by their attacks upon the Spa- iiiaids, followed the known tracks, without increafing the knowledge of geography. ' - ' " "» V In I 7 1 4, a Frenchman, called la Barbinais le Gentil, failed, on board a private merchant fhip, in order to carry on an illicit trade, upon the coaft of Chili and Peru. From thence he went to China, where, after flay- ing fome time in various fadlories, he embarked in an- other fliip than that which had brought him, and re- turned to Europe, having indeed gone in perfon round 14. Woodes Rogers, an Engliihmaii, failed from tJriftol, June 15th, 1708, and returned 1711. • • 15, Clippertftn and Shdvockc, two Engliflimcn, f.iiled tlie 13th of February, J 7 19, and returned in r722 ; tlv,- former to Galway in Ireland, in the beginning of June, the latter to Londcm, on the firft of Auguft. 16. Roggcwein, a Mecklenburger, in the Dutcjj fcryipc, f;|iied tl\c iMt of July, 1-21, and returned the iithof July, 1723. J. 17. J,ord Anfon, 1740— 1744. T' 18. Commodore I3yron, 1764 — 1766.^ ■ iQ. The Dolphin and Swallow flobps. The firfl J766 — 176S. The fecond 1766—1769. ^ ' . , . . _... ; . 20. M. de Bou^inville, 1766 — 1769! 21. The Endeavour floop, captain Cooke, whith failed in Auguft, 1768, toob- ferve the tranfit of Venus, came to Batavia the latter end of 177c, and returned to England in July 1 77 1, From ihib lift, it appears that the Ehglifli have undertaken tfie greatefl number of voyagds, with a defign to make difcoverics, Unattended by that felfininefs with which moft of the Dutch vdyigtB were entered upon, merely with a vfew to pro- mote the knowledge of geography, to make navigation more fafe, and iiktwifc to throw further lights on the ftudy of nature. F. /•.♦ the ) r. •I , o", ^? July, limber with pro- life to the 1 i INTRODUCTION. the world, though that cannot be confidcrcd as a tir- cumnavigation by the French nation *. .... j^.,,»^ .^,, ^, Let us now fpeak of thofe who going out cither from Europe, or from the wcftcrn coafts of South-Americai or from the Eafl-Indics, have made dilcovciits iu the South Seas, without faihng round the world. It appears that one Paulmierdc Goniieville, a French- man, was the firll who difcovercd any thing tliat way, in i>o3 and 1504. Tlic countries which he viliied are not known ; he brought however with him a native ol one of them, whom the government did not fend back, for which reafon, Gonneville, thinking himfelf pcrfonally engaged, gave him his heirefs in marriage. Alfonzo de Salazar, a Spaniard, difcovered in is^S the lile of St, Bartholomew, in 1 4° north latitude, and I s^° eaft longitude from Paris. r --y;^-o ':"''.„ ^ . Alvaro dc Saavedra, left one of the ports of Mexico in 1526, difcovered, between 9° a;nd iq" north, a heap of iflcs, which he called the King's Ifles, much about the fame longitude with the Ifle St« Bartholomew ; he then went to the Pl'lippines, and to the Moluccas, and .p'Jv f -uO • Theauthor is very foliehous to cxcKirit* Ic Gfntil dc la Barbinais frrfm the lio- ^oiir of being the -fir ft circunin^vigoior OJt the Jteuch natioii« ia order to fecurc it tohirirfclf; thougb It i% a real circumnavigation. The famous Italian, Giovan Fra4Kifco G«melli Carreri, cannot with ivopriety be called a circUnuuvi^ater, though he made the tour of the globe in the years 1693- "1698, for he landed in )MexiCo,jind crofled America by land,^ and want again tp the Manillas byfei^ and ftum t^iqftce ta Qhii\a,ji}id Emopq,q^ jjoar^yf ptfe^ibimi:. {), ^Aj^j-ji ■ . b 2 on XIX tt- INTRODUCTION. ■w \ i I ■ .it I <''i on his return to Mexico, he was the firft that had any knowledge of New Guinea and Papua. He dircovcred hkewifc, in twelve degrees north, about eighty leagues eaft of the King's Ides, a chain of low iflands, which he called lilas do los Barbudos. ' ' ' ■ '" "^'''-"• Diego Hurtado and Hernando de Grijalva, who failed from Mexico in 13*33, to fearch the South Seas, difco- vercd only one ifle, fituated in 20° 30' north latitude* and about loo** weft longitude Trom Paris j they called it St. Thomas Ifland. ' ' ' " * ''' Juan Gai-fan failed from Mexico in 1542, and like- wife kept to the north of the aequator. He there dif- covered, between 20** and 9° in various longitudes, fe- veral iflcs ; viz. Rocca Partida, the Coral Ifles, the Gar- den Ifles, the Sailor Ifles, the Ifle of Arczifa, and at laft he touched at New Guinea, or rather, according to his report, at the ifles tliat were afterwards called New Bri- tain ; but Dampicr had not yet difcovered the paflage which bears his name. - nt -r^vfii i/u< .> , . The following voyage is more' famous than all the nrecedincT ones. ^^ ^^ A4.ii»M«i:- iiii»*ivwr. . ifMj* u^i^rw'f »•-.*•< Alvaro de Mendo^a and Mindana, leaving Peru in 1567, difcovered thofe celebrated ifles, which obtained the name of Solomon's Iflands, on account of their riches ; but fuppofing that the accounts we have of the riches of thefe iflcs be not fabulous, yet their fituatibn is »i, INTRODUCTION/ 111 is not known, and ihcy have been fought for fince without any I'ucccis. Ii appears only, that they are oa the Ibuih fide of the Line, between 8° and 1 2*. The Iflc Ifabclla, and the land of Guadalcanal, which thole voyages mention, are not bciicr known. .! ' ■, r; In i S 9S* Alvaro dc Mindaria, the companion of Mcn- do^a, in the preceding voyage, failed again from Peru, with four fliips, in fearch of the Solomon's Ifles : he had with him Fernando de Quiros, who afterwards be- came celebrated by his own difcoveries. Mindaiia dif- covered, between 9° and 1 1 ° fouih latitude, about 108° weft from Paris, the ifles of San Pedro, Magdalena, Do- minica, St. Chriftina, all which he called las Marguefas de Mendofdy in honour of Donna Ifabella de Mendo^a, who made the voyage with him : about twenty-four idegreea more to the weft ward, he difcovercd the IJle of San Bernardo i almoft two hundred leagues to the weft of that, the Solitary Ifle j and laftly, the Ifle of Santa Cruz, fuuated nearly in 140° eaft longiit,ude from Paris. The fleet failed from thence to the Ladrones, and laftly to the Philippines, where general Mindana did not ar- j.jrive, nor did any one know iince what became of him, (;^ i Fernando de Quiros, the companion of the unhappy Mindana, brought Donna Ifabella back to Peru. He r failed from thence again with two fliips, on the 2 1 ft of • .December,. 1 605, .,^»Afteer^ hjf ,;Sft¥4R;iftlq^;iWeft- r ' . fouth— zxu INTRODUCTION. 11 ■>^" »' f '•■ ^*» * • r.jjj.vz hm, ■' Abel Tafman failed from Batavia the 14th of Au- guft, 164-2, difcovered land in 42° fouth lathudc, and about 155° call longitude from Paris, which he called Van Diemen's land : lie failed from thence to the call- ward, and in about i 6c° of our eaft longitude, he dif- covered New Zeeland, in 42"* 10' Ibuih. He coaAed it ti!l to 34" fourh lat. from whence he failed N. E. atid "difcovered, in 22° 3/ fouth lat. ami nearly i74*caftt>f Paris, the lllcs of Pylftaart, Amilerdaiu, and Rotterdam. He a ii INTRODUCTION. xxiii m. lie lie tliil not extend his rcfcarchcs any farther, and re- turned to 13;iiavia, failing between New Guinea and Gilolo. • ; The >;;eneral name of New Holland has been given to a great extent of continent, or chain of iflands, reach- ing from 6" to 34" fouih lat. between 105° and 140" call longitude from Paris. It was rcafonablc to give it the name of New Holland, becaufe the different parts of it have chiefly been difcovered by Dutch navigators. The firfl land which was found in thcfc parts, was called the Land of Eendraght, from the perfon * that difcovered it in 161 6, in 24° and 25° fouih latitude. In 1618, another part of this coaft, fituatcd nearly in I S° fouih, was difcovered by Zeachen, who gave it the name of Arnhem and Diemen ; thougli this is not the fame wiih that which Tafman called Diemen's land afterwards. In 16 19, Jan van EdeU gave his name to a fouthern part of ^Jew Holland. Another parr, lituated between sonant! 33°, received the name of Lcuwen, Peter van Nuitz communicated his name in i 627 to .a coad which makes as it were a continuation of Leu- wen's land to the weftward. William de Witts called a part of the weftern coaft, near the tropic of Capricorn, after his own name, though it fhould have born that of captain Viane, a Dutchman, v^^ho paid dear for the '' '• Not from the difcovcrer, but from thcfliip Ecudraglu (Coa(6td)i'^ * "*- \r^ di{l XIIV INTRODUCTION. I .1 n I'M i • t 1 ^1 difcovery of this coaft in 1628, by the lofs of his fliip, and of all his riches. - In the fimc year i6iSy Peter Carpenter, a Dutch- man, difcovered the great Gulph of Carpentaria, be- tween I 0° and 2 0° fouth latitude, and the Dutch have often faicc fent fhips to recormoitre that coaft. Dampier, an EngUfliman, fetring out from the great Timor I fie, made his firft voyage in 1687, along the coafts of New Holland ; and touched between the land of Arnhem and of Diemen : this (hort expedition was productive of no difcovery. In 1699 ^^ ^^^^ England, with an exprefs intention of visiting all that region, concerning which, the Dutch would not publifti the accounts they had of it. He failed along the wellern coaft of it, from 28° to i 5°. He faw the land of Een- draght, and of De Witt, and conjedured that there might e-.ift a paffage to the fouth of Carpentaria. He then returned to Timor, from whence he ^ent out again, examined the Ifles of Papua, coafted New Guinea, dif- covered the paflage that bears his name, called a great ifle which forms this paffage or ftrait on the caft fide New Britain, and failed back to Timor along New Gui- nea. This is the fame Dampier who between 1^83 and 1^95, partly as a freebooter or privateer, and p irrly as a trada*, failed round the v;orld, by changmg his (hips. This n *4i.4 INTRODUCTION. XXV igain, dif- I great fide, Gui- 683 and ;rng This is the (hort abftracfl of the feveral voyages round the W0il«', and of the various difcoveries made in that vaft Pacific Ocean before our departure from France*. Before I begin the narrative of the expedition, with which I was charged, I muft beg leave to mention, that this relation ought not to be looked upon as a work of amufement ; it has chiefly been written for fearaen. Befides, this long navigaiion round the globe does not offer fuch ftriking and interefting fcenes to the polite world, as a voyage made in time of war. Happy, if by being ufed to compofition, I could have learnt to counterbalance the dulnefs of the fubjeCl by elegance of ilile ! But, though I was acquainted with the fciences from my very youth, when the leflbns which M. d'Alcm- bert was fo kind to give me, enabled me to ofi'er to the indulgent public, a work upon geometry, yet I am now far from the fandtuary of fcience and learning ; the rambling and favage life I have led for tliefe twelve years pail, have had too great an eflcdl upon my ideas and my ftile. One does not become a good writer in the woods of Canada, or on the fcas, and I have loll ;;•-> i.V :. * T^ie miftalces nnd oniillions of our aut'ior In regard to tlic^e navipntors of tfie South Seas, who did not fiiil round the world, arc various and multifarious ; but it would take up too much time to point them all out ; and as there i:> a very com- plete lilt of all the navigators of the Pacific Ocean, in the Hi'hrical Colleflio}i of the ftveral Foyii^es end Dtjcovenes in ihf South Pacifn Otean, publilTlcd by Alex. Dal- ryniple, Eiq. wc refer our readers to it. F. c a bro. 'his sxvi INTRODUCTION. ^ li I a brother, whofe prcducn:ions were admired by ihc pub- lic, aad who might have affifted me in that rcfpect. Laflly, I neither quote nor contradi\5t any body, and much Icfs do I pretend to eilabhlh or to overthrow any hypothecs ; and fuppofmg that the gi\?at differences which I have remarked in the various countries where I have touched at, had nor been able to pr^.vent my em. bracing that ipirit of fyftem-making, fo pecuUar in our prefent age, and however fo incompatible with true philofophy, how could I have expe I fl:iaU conclude this preliminary difcourfe by doing jufticc to the zeal, courage, and unwearied patience of ^ - ' • the it k4i i. ! INTRODUCTION. the olTiccrs and crew of my tWo (hips K It has not been nccelTary to animate them by any extraordinary incitement, luch as the Engliih thouglir it necefFary to grant to the crew of commodore Byron. Tlieir con- Itancy has Hood the tcfl of the moll critical fitua'ion<;, and their good v/ill has not one moment abated. But tlie French nation is capable of conquering the greatcd diiliculties, and nothing is inipoflible to tlicir elTorrs, as often as (he will think hcrfclf equal at lead to any na- tion in the world t. ' ' ' ' XXV 11 * The ofiiccrs on board the frigate la Boudcufe, were JNI. de Bougainville, cnp- tain of the fliip ; Duclos Ciuyot, captain of a firc-fliip •, chevalier ile Bournaui.!, chevalier d'Oraifon, chevalier dii Bouchage, under-lieutenants {enfeigvn di vaif- Jeat ) ; chevalier de Suzannet, chevalier dc Kiie, midfliipncn a(Sling as oihcers ; le Corre, fuper-cargo (ojjicier-^narchand) ; Saint-Germain, ihip's-clerk ; la Vczc, the chapl.iin ; la Porte, hirgeon. The ofiicers of the ftorc-ihip I'Etoile, confifteil of M. M. Chenard de la Girau- dais, captain of a fire-ftiip; Cai i, lieutenant in an India-man; Donat, Landais, Fontaine, and Lavary-le-l\oi, q/uicrs tnanharJs^ A'lichaud, fhip's-clerk ; Vivcz, furgeon. There v/erc likewife IM. M. de Comnicrcjon, a phyfician 3 Vcrron, an aftiono- mer, and dc Roniainville, an engineer. f It would be improper to derogate from the merit of any nation, iinlefs that fame nation intends to obt.iiri it by dcllroyir.g t'.ie eharaclcr of another. h.>d Mr. ile Bougainville btftnwed lomc cncomiiar.s upon the i:eal and cour.agc of the ofliccia imder his commaiu!, it would be thought that he were vviiling to do them juilice : but fmce he, without the Icaft necciRty, calls a reflection upon the Englifb clTicers in eomiv.odore Byron's expedition, it is no more but juftite to retort the argument. It is an undeniable prooi' of the I)adncS of the ccnlUtution, ar.d of the arbiirary go- vernment of -A touiury, wlicn a let cf worthy men, who h.ave braved the moll innni- nent danger, with nn undaunted courage, for the welti.ie ot then- tcUow-eitiztr.f, remain without anv reM-.ud v.'hatfocver, except th;;t philofcphical cne, the confeioufncfs of good r.nillaudjble .icti:\ . ill! ; xxviii INTRODUCTION. the happlncfs to live under a government which thinks it a neccirary duty to re- ward zeal, courage, anu virtue, in a let of men who go through their duty with fpirit and chearfuhiefb* ; and what honour muft not redound on an adminiflration which forces, even a rival nation, to give an honouiable teftimony to its attention in juftly and confpicuoufly rewarding merit in its fellow-citizens, at the fame time that thcfe rivals endeavour to quiet the uncafy minds of tlicir pooi diflatisfied offi- cers, with a vain and empty compliment. F. ^' n 1i A VOY- luty to rc- duty with liniftration ttention in fame time isfied ofTi- .^OY- .'I /'/ / /III)' Jhlo,' I. I A (' H A K T sli,'/rr/ii>- f/if- 7'/iiiA- roiniif Tni<: Wo HI. J) %' > /{ o J ' n /; r ,v k ,i/ii/ IC 7 v 11. r. iiiii/cr flu' ('(>iinn0' /J0(^ 'rpopic oi' Cuncor o / H'lnli' mas ABomPo-/ — f- — -J — r^' » * , — - — ■ E eq uator -^S . /V rxyp ]tiirJ.rtu.>ftuH. '■' Rrtli-.l^ii' 'Dit'ffr /in/z 1. 1 rtii'i' ^ Ali/n/h/ili'l' if t/lf ('IM/ l'\i/llt/l'>' ■■'■"//,: '/'.- \in iirnfi'f.f /;■ '. - "o. /' f'ttfntfitttt % % ^V ^ ^ , /W//V ^1- Tropio of Capiiioni ^■ r .1 c 1 / J)/f>ni'fi.i /anJ '^EW ZE INLAND o r E .1 70 So fl" m ii m l um i^ w m mm p ii ww mw b iii | i||- n i ni iiii miii i b i m iiii ''.I'' /./c — imm— pni iim-i im^ b»iih imm [Wi| ww »'j»^ rTT?- ffim fmii' miiiw ■ /Si- /J, /(ir /.>" '■/" /, j taimii (' H A R T sl'rfftfiu,' tlw 'I'rihk roinitf Tttl'l \V<*Kl.l) of'tlh- Jio r li /; r\K r /.>" 14'' /,'<" /ZC 9e ft,} Sf /'' ■"" '*'' /'/. / . /ilii- Jhliti' I . fio S''- C' Cy'"'-'- ... .-"(^h; r Ti Y % A F « I V A f ' I .i ': 1 4 'ttt '•V...™.._ \ 4 # • « • • • t Q V G E ;:> ROUND THE W O R . .1 . D. PART the FIRST. Departure from France ■ clearing the Straits of . : Magalhaens. :i}'.'\ n CHAP. I. Departure of the Boudeufe from Nantes ; puts in at Bref ; run from Brejl to Montevideo ; jun6fion with the Spanifli ■ frigates, intended for taking pofft/Jion of the Malouines, or Falkland's ijlands. IN February 1764, France began to make a fet- objeftofthe tlement on the Illes Malouines. Spain reclaimed ^°^^^766. thefc ides as belonging to the continent of South America j and her right to them having been acknow- ledged by the king, I received orders to deliver our fettlement to the Spaniards, and to proceed to the Eafl hidies by crofling the South Seas between the Tropics. For this expedition I received the com- B mand November. • '•1 * ^ * Departure fiom Nantes. SiiL'all of wind. A VOYAGK ROUND THE WORLD. miind of ilic frigate la Bomlcuic, of t\vcnty-[ix iwclvc- pounders, ;ind I w';is to be joined at the Miiloiiincs by the Ilurc-lhip "^ I'Mtoilc, wliicli wivi intended to bring mc ilic provilions neccfUiry lor a voyage of fueh u length, and to follow nic during the whole expedi- tion. Several eircuniQaneea retarded the junelion ot this flore-veilel, and confequently made my whole voyage near eight months longer than it would oiheiwife have been. In the beginning of November, 1766^ I went to Nantes, where the Boudeufe had jull been built, and where M. Duclos Guyot, a captain of a rneOiip, my fecond ofllccr, was fitting her out. The jih of thiii month wc came down from Painbeuf to IMindin, to finifli the equipment of her ; and on the i 5th we failed from this road for the river dc la Plata. There 1 was to find the two Spanifli frigates, called la Efmcralda and la Liebre, that had left Ferrol the 17 th of October, and whofc comt^^ander was ordered to receive the J//cs MalottineSf or Falkland's iflands, in the name of his Catholic majcily. r ' ' "■'" The 17 th in the morning we fulTercd a fudden guft of wind from W. S. W. to N. W. it grew more violent in the night, which wc pafTed under our bare poles, with our main-yards lowered, the clue of the fore-fail, • La flute, under >'U : twclvc- lahuiincs lulcd to of-" fiidi : cxpcdi- (ilion ot ; whole would went to ilr, and ip, my of this [idin, to vc fa i ltd : I was ddii and )c1:ober, the IJlcs of liis en guft violent I poles, re-fail, under A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, ) under which we tried before, having been carried away. The i8ih, at four in the morning, our forc- top-maft broke about the middle of its height ; the main-top-mall refiftcd till eight o'clock, when it broke in the cap, and carried away the head of the main- mad. This laft event made it impofTiblc for us to con- tinue our voyage, and I determined to put into 13refl.> putting in at where wc arrived the 2 i (I of November. ' This fquall of wind, and the confufion it had oc- cafioncd, gave me room to make the following obfcr- vations upon the flatc and qualities of the frigate which I commanded. . . ■' I '' - ,. . 1. The prodigious tumbling home of her top-tim- bers, leaving too little opening to the angles which the llirouds make with the mafts, the latter were not fufTiciently fupported. -■' "•^"•' '"^ ' •••i -..!. ^..-.i 2. The preceding fault became of more confc- quence by the nature of the ballaft, which we had been obliged to take in, on account of the -Prodi- gious quantity of provifions we had (lowed. Forty tuns of ballafl, diftributcd on both fides of the kcl- fon, and at a fliort dillancc from ir, and a dozen twclve- poundcrs placed at the bottom of the pump-wcll (wo had only fourteen upon deck) added a confidcrable wci^^hr, which being much below the center of gra- vity, and ahnofl: entirely relied upon tiic kelfon, T' 2 put lit t *^ A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. «■■■ I. ¥ t I r put the mads in danger, if there had been any rolling, Thcfc rciiedtions induced me to get the exccfllve height of Qur mads fhortencd, and to exchange the cannon, which were twelve- pounders, for eight- pounders. Bcfides the diminution of near twenty ton weight, both in the hold and upon deck, gained by exchanging the artillery, the narrow make of the frigate alone was fullicient to render it necefTary. She wanted about two feet of the beam which fuch fri- gates have as are intended to carry twelve pounders. Notwithilandingthefe alterations, which I was allowed to make, I could not help obferving that my fhip was not fit for navigating in the feas round Cape Horn. I had found, during the fquall of wind, that (he made wa- ter from all her upper-works, which might expofc part of my bifcuit to be fpoiled by the water getting into the llore-rooms in bad weather ; an inconvenience, the confequences of which we ihould not be able to re- medy durmg the voyage. I therefore afked leave to fend the Boudeufe back to France from the Falkland's iilands, under the command of the chevalier Bour- nand, lieutenant of a fliip, and to continue the voyage with the ftore-fliip I'Etoilc alone, if the long winter nights Ihould prevent my pafling the Straits of • ' .'■ Magal- .;'li,;;,r.I'; -^aiw «, 1. .U: D. ;cii any exccfTive mgc the : cight- cnty ton lined by ; of ihs ry. She uch fii- mdcrs. 3 allowed ) waa not 1. I had nade wa- expofe getting: cnicnce, c to re- 10 fend Ikland's r Bour- e voyage g winter ■raits of MagaU A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. / Magalhaens *. I obtained this permifiion, and the 4th of December, our mads being repaired, the artillery ex- changed, and the frigate entirely caulked in her upper- works, we went out of the port and anchored in the road, where we continued a whole day, in order to embark the powder, and to fet up the (hrouds. The j^th at noon we got under fail in the road of December. Breft. I was obliged to cut my cable, beca-ufe the from Biaft. frefli ead-wind and the ebb prevented my tacking about, as I was apprehenfive of foiling off too near the fhore. I had eleven comraiflioned officers, and three volunteers ; and the crew conlifted of two hundred failors, warrant-officers, foldiers, boys, and fervants. The prince of NafTau-Sieghen had got leave from the king to go upon this expedition. At four o'clock in the afternoon, the middle of the ifle of Ufhant bore N. by E. and from thence I took my departure. During the firil days, we had the wind pretty con^ Defcription '^ ^ oftheSaU flant trom W.N. W. to W.S. W. and S.W, very frelh. vag«. The 17 th, afternoon, we got fight of the Salvages ; the I 8tli, of the Ifle of Palma ; and the i pih, of the Ifle of Ferro. What is called the Salvages, is a little ifle of about a league in extent from E. to W. it is low in the A-rA >f}i ii..l»; , V, 1; (:|HU J\.Ol\ * Though the name of this circumnavigator is frequently fpeJJed Magellan, it is, liowever, right to fpell proper names as they are written in their original language ; according to this rule we fliall always write Magalhaens. F. middle,, I 5 t M i 1 - 1 ?,. ? t' ) 1 Error :n tlic cH'.culjiiiiii of ihe cuurlc. Pofiiion of the Salvage reiVtficd. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. middle, and at each end a little hillock ; a chain of rocks, fome of which appear above water, extend to the weftward about two leagues off the ifiand ; there are likcwife fomc breakers on the eaft-ridc, but they are* not far from the fliore. The fight of ihefc rocks convinced us of a great error in our reckoning ; but I would not make a com- putation before I had fcen the Canaries, whofe pofition is exaclly determined. The fight of the lUc of Ferro gave me with certainty the correction which I was dc- firous to make. The i 9th, at noon, I took the lati- tude, and comparing it with the bearings of the Iflc of Ferro taken that fame hour, I found a difference of four degrees and fcven minutes, which I was more to the callward, than by my reckoning. This error is frequent in crolTing from Cape Finiflerre to the Canaries, and I had found it on other voyages, as the currents oppofite the flraits of Gibraltar fet to the eallward with great rapidity. , I had, at the fame time, an opportunity of remarking, that the Salvages arc improperly placed on I\I. dc BelUn's Chart. Indeed, when we got fight of them the i 7 th, after noon, the longitude which their bearingr> gave us differed from our calculation by three d.grccs fevcn- tccn minutes to the eallward. However, iliiii fame dif- lereiicc appeared the i 9th of four dcgrccij fcven nii- 4 • nutcs, Kv LD. a chain extend to d ; there : they are* f a great :e a com- e pofition of Ferro I was dc- : the lati- F the Iflc erence of s more to error is Canaries, currents eadvvaicl marking, cBdlxn's ic I 7 th, gave us :s fcvcn- "iime dif- ;vcn mi- nutes. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 7 niitcs, by correcting our place, according to the bearings of the ifle of Ferro, whofe longitude has been determin- ed by adronomical obfcrvations. It mufl be obfervcd, that during the two days which paffed between our get- ting fight of ih.e S.ilvagcs and of Ferro, we failed with a fair wind; and confequenily there can be very little mifcalculation in that parr of the courfe. I3efides, tlic I 8th, we fet the Ifle of Palma, bearing S. W, by W. corrected ; and, accoi'ding to M. Bellin, it was to bear S. W. I concluded, from thcfe two obfcrvations, that M. Bellin liiis placed the Hie of S;ilvages about 32^ more to the W. than it really is. I therefore took a frefh departure the icjth of December at noon. We met with no remarkable occurrences on our voyage, till we came to the Rio dc la Plata ; our courfe furniHied us only with the following obfcrvations, whicli may be imerefling to navigators. 1 . The 6th and 7 th of January 17^7, being between 7767. 1" 40 and 038 norta kuuude ; and about 28" Icnsi- Nautical ob. tudc, we faw many birds, which induced me to believe, "''''""'" that we w^ere near the rock of Penedo San Pedro ; though IM. Bellin does not mark it on his chart. 2. The 8 th of January, in the afternoon, we paOcd p^^j^^ „f the line between 27'' and 28° of longitude. ' theiine.' 3. Since the 2d of January we could no longer cbferve Rcm.rkon the variations ; and I only reckoned them by the charts lionl'""' of B A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. hi \ I m :S i of William Mountain and James Obfon. The 1 1 th, at fun-fet, we obferved 3° 17' of N. W. variation ; and the 14th, in the morning, I obferved again 10' of N. W. variation with an azimuth-compafs, the (liip then be- ing in 10** 30^ or 40^ S. latitude, and about 33° 20' W. longitude, ftom Pnris. Therefore it is certain, that, if my eftimated longitude is exa(^, and I verified it as fuch at the land- fall *, the line of no variation is Hill further advanced to the weflward fince the obfervation of Mountain and Obfon ; and it feems the progrefs of this line weftward is pretty uniform. Indeed, upon the fame degree of latitude, where Mountain and Obfon found 12° or 13° of difference in the fpace of forty-four years, I have found a little more than 6°after an interval of 2 2 years. This progreflion deferves to be confirmed by a chain of obfervations. The difcoveryof thelaw by which thefe changes happen that are obferved in the declination of the magnetic needle, befides furnifhing us with a method of finding out the longitude at fea, might perhaps lead us to the caufcs of this variation, and perhaps even to that of the magnetic power. 4. About the line we have almoll always obferved found in go- very great variations on the north-fide, thoueh it is ins to tlic " more common to obfervc them on tlie fouih-fide. We had an opportunity of gucfiing at the caufc of it, the * Lnnd-fnll, attcrogi, tlie firfl land a fliip nukcy after a fca-voyage. Sec Fal- coner's Marine Dictionary. F, 18th Caufes cfthc variaciont Br>ifil5. LD. ' 1 1 th, at ; and the of N. W. I then be- 3 3° 20' aiij, that, fied it as n is Hill ifcrvation ^grefs of d, upon id Obfon >rty-four interval rmed by 5y which ^lination with a might •n, and »bfcrved ^ it is le. We it, the Sec Fal- I Sth ■fe- '11 ' A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. i8th of January paffing over a bank with young M\, which extended beyond the reach of our fight, from S. W. one quarter W. to N. E. one quarter E. upon a line of rcddifh white, about two fathoms broad. Our meeting with it, taught us that fmce feme days the ,| currents fet in to the N. E. one quarter E. for all fiflx '^^^ fpawn upon the coails, whence the currents detach the fry and carry them into the open fea. On obferving thefe variations N. of which I have fpoken, I did not I infer from thence, that it was neceflary there fhould t be variations weftward together with them ; likewife < the 29th of January, in the evening, when we faw land, I had calculated at noon that it was ten or twelve leagues off, which gave rife to the following obfer- vations. It has long ago been a complaint among na- vigators, and ftiU continues, that the charts, and efpecially thofe of M. Bcilin, lay down the coafts of Brafil too much to the eaftward. They ground this complaint upon their having got fight of thefe coails in their feveral voyages, when they thought themfelvcs at leafl eighty or a hundred leagues off. They add, that they have feveral times obferved on thefe coails, that the currents had carried them S. W. and they ra- ther choofe to tax the charts and aftronomical obfer- ^ ^ s- vations 10 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. .;>.' ■^■^■^\ ■J vations as erroneous, than fufpcvfl their fliips reckon- ing fubjecT: to miftakcs. • r . Upon the like rcwifonings we might have concluded the contrary on our couiTc to Rio de la Plata, if by chance we had not difcovercd tlie rcalbn of the varia- tiations N. which wc met with. It was evident that the bank with the fry of fi(h, tliat we met with the 2 9th, was fubje<5l to the dirc^Slion of a current ; and its diftancfl from the coaft proved, that the current had already exifled fcveral days. It was therefore ihe caufe of conftant errors in our courfe ; and the currents which navigators have often found to fet in to the S. W. on thele {horcs, arc fubjcdl to variations, and forae- times take contrary diredions. This obfervaticn being well confirmed, and our courfe being nearly S. \V. were my authorities for correfting our miftakes as to the diftances, making them agree with the obfervations of the latitude, and not to cor- rect the points of the compafs. By this method I got. fight of the land, aimed the fame moment when I expe(5lcd to fee it by my calculation. Thofe aTTiongR us, who always reckoned our courfe to the wcftvvard, according to the (hip's journals, being content- ed to corre.^ ]■' n :. i ■Tt, 'I J '<■ *. .. . . ■'! ■■ ^4 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. thofi: imracnfe plains, iti which travellers arc guid- ed by the eye, taking care not to niifa the fords in tlic rivers, and driving before theml'elves thirty or forty horfes, among which they mud take fome with cioofcs, in order to have relays, when thofc on which they ride are fatigued. We lived upon meat which was alraofl raw ; and pafTcd the nights in huts made of leather, in which our fleep was condantly inter- rupted by the bowlings of tygers that lurk around them. I (hall never forget in what manner we crofTcd the river St. Lucia, which is very deep, rapid, and wider than the Seine oppofite the Hofpital of Invalids at Pa- ris. You get into a narrow, long canoe, one of whofe fides is half as high again as the other ; two horfes are then forced into tjie water, one on the ftar- board, and the other on the larboard fide of the canoe, and the mailer of the ferry, being quite naked, (which, though a very wife precaution, is infuf- cient to encourage paflcngcrs that cannot fwim) holds up the horfes heads as well as he can above the water, obliging them to fwim over the river, and to draw the canoe, if they be ftrong enough for it. Don Ruis arrived at Montevideo a few days after us. There arrived at the fame time two boats laden, one with wood and refrefliments, the other with bif- cuit and flour, which we took on board, an place of I that 1.* ILD. - arc guul- tic fords in thirty or fome with ; on which leat which huts made mtly imcr- irk around r wc crofTcd , and wider lUds at Pa- )e, one oi ither ; two >n the ftar- ■ the canoe, lite naked, 16 infuf- not fwim) 1 above the vet, and to or it. days after 3oatB laden, : with bif- in place of that liiA A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. ' that which had been confumed on our voyage from Breft. The Spanilh frigates being likewife ready, we prepared to leave Rio dc la Plata. '5 1 1 CHAP. II. i . jfecount of the eflablijloment of the Spaniards in Rio de M' ; - , : ^'\i . ■ la Plata. • r ■ ^ .,^/ a: n . 1767. R (••■ /-I • , < .- J 10 de la Plata, or the river of Plate, does not go inccrtaimyr concerriny by that fame name from its fource. It is faid to thefourceof this river. fpring from the lake Xarages, near i 6° 30' fouth, un- der the name of Paraguai, which it communicates to the immcnfe extent of land it pafles through. In about 27" it joins with the river Parana, whofe name it takes, together with its waters. It then runs due fouth to lat. 3 4° J where it receives the river Uraguai, and di- re<5ts its 4;:ourfe eaftward, by the name of la Plata^ which it keeps to the fea. ^ . The Jfefuit geographers, who were the lirft that at- tributed the origin of this great river to the lake of Xara-^es, have been millaken, and other writers have followed their millake in this particular. Ihc ex- iftence of this lake, which has been in vain foi;ght for, is now at;knowledged to be fabulous. The marquis of Valdelirais and Don George Menezcs, having been ap- pointed. !ir I 6 A VO^'AOE ROUND THE WORLD. n 5) Sources of the river Plata. poiiitcci, ihe one by Spaiu and the other by Portugal, lor Ictilirig the limits between the poflcilions of tlicfc fwo powers in this country, fcvci'al Spanilh and Por- tugucfc oflicers went through the whole of this por- tion of America, from i;^! till 1755. Pan of the Spaniards went up the river Paraguai, expcding by this means to come into the lake of Xaragcs ; the Portu- guefe on their parr, fetting out from Maragoflb, a ict- ilciiient of theirs upon the inner boundaries of the Brafils, in about i 2° fouth latitude, embarked on a ri- ver called Caourou, which the fame maps of the Jefuits marked, as falling into the lake of Xarages. They were both much furprifed at meetmg in the river Pa- raguai, in 1 4° S. latitude, without having feen any lake. They proved, that what had been taken for a lake, was a great extent of very low grounds, which, during 2, certain feafon, are covered by the inundations of the river. .,.,. ,.,, .., ^.^,,^y j^,^, ,^ ... The Paraguai, or Rio de la Plata, arifes between s° and 6'' S. latitude nearly in the middle between the two oceans, and in the fame mountains whence the Made- ra comes, which empties itfelf into the river of Ama- zons. The Parana and Uraguai arife both in the Bra- fils J the Uraguai in the captainfliip of St. Vincent ; the Parana near the Atlantic ocean, in the mountains that lie to the E. N. E. of Rio Janeiro, whence it takes %, LD. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 17 Portugal, of thcfc and For- th is p.ir- irt of the ig by this he Ponu- [Ib, a fct- s of the 1 on a li- he Jefuits IS, They river Pa- any lake, lake, was during a ns of the twcen 5° n the two he Made- of Ama- thc Bra- Vincent ; lountains rhence it takes takes its courfc to the wcftward, and afterwards turns .."I I .»i fouth. The abbe Prevofl has given the hiftory of the difco- J^J"^^*j[,|J]* very of thcRiode hi Plata, andoi'the obftaclcs the Spa- ni"t,onhe niards met with, in forming the firft: fettlcments they '*'"'• made there. It appears from his accoimt that Diaz dc Solis firfl entered this nvcr in 1515, and gave his name to it, which it bore till 1526, wlien Sebaftian Cabat changed it to that of la Plata, or of Silver, on account of the quantity of that metal he found among the natives there. Cabot built the fort of Efpiritu Santo, upon the river Tercero, thirty leagues above thejuncftion of the Paraguai and Uraguai; but this fettlement was deftroyed almoft as foon as it was conftrucfled. * *' < •-» - Don Pedro de Mendoza, great cup-bearer to the em- peror, was then fent to the river of Plate in ISSS- He laid the firft foundations of Buenos Ayres, under bud aufpices, on the right hand fliorc of the river, fomc leagues below its jundion with the Uraguai, and his whole expedition was a chain of unfortunarc events, that did not even' end at his death. The inhabitants of Buenos Ayres, being conti- nually interrupted by the Indians, and conftantly op- prefTcd by famine, were obliged to leave the place ano to retire to Aflumption. This town, now the capital '»f Paraguai, was founded by fomc Spaniards, attendants of D Men- if' \ 18 !■ ) 1^ Situation of the tov.i; of Kucnos Ayrej. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Mcndoza, upon the wcftcrn flioic of the river, three hundred leagues from its mouth, and was in a very fhori fpacc of time confiderubly enlarged. At length Don Pedro Ortiz de Zarata, governor of Paraguay, rebuilt Buenos Ayres in 1580, on the fame fpoc where the un- happy IMcnduza had formerly laid it out, and fixed his re- fidence there : the town became the Haple to which Euro- pean fliips reforted, and by degrees the capital of all thefe iratfts, the fee of a bifliop, and the rcDdence of a go- vernor-general. Buenos Ayres is lltuated in 34° 35' fouth latitude,. its longitude is 61° 5' weft from Paris, according to the aftronoraical obfervations of father Fcuillce. It is built regular, and much larger than the num- ber of its inhabitants would require, which do not exceed twenty thoufand, whites, negroes, and mef- tizos. The way of building the houfcs gives the town this great extent ; for, if we except the con- vents, public buildings, and five or fix private man- fions, they are all very low, and have no more th?,n a ground-floor, with vaft court-yards, and moll of them a garden. The citadel, which includes the governor's palace, is fituated upon the ftiore of the river, and forms one of the fides of the great fquare, oppofite to which the rown-hall is fituated ; the cathedral and epifcopal palace occupy the two 4 other H.. /er, three n a very :ngth Don y, rebuilt re the un- ccd his re- lieh Euro- 3f all thefe of a go- 1 latitude, :ording to lillee. It he num- 1 do not nd mef- gives the the con- nate man- lore th?.n id mo It includes ihore of he great lituated ; the two other I m A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 19 other fides of the fquare, in which a public market is daily held. There is no harbour at Buenos Avres, nor fo much This town wants a har- as a mole, to facilitate the landing of boats. The (hips tour. can only come within three leagues of the town j there they unload their goods into boats, which enter a lit- tle river, named Rio Chuelo, from whence the mer- chandizes are brought in carts to ihe town, which is about a quarter of a league from the landing-place. Th " ihips which want careening, or take their lading at Bue- nos Ayres, go to la En^enada de 'Baragon, a kind of port about nine or ten leagues E. S. E. of this town. ' Buenos Ayres contains many religious commu- Religious c- llablilhni^nts. nities of both fexes. A great riumber of holi- days are yearly celebrated by -prDeeffions and fire- works. The monks have given the title of Majordomes or Stewards of the founders of their orders, and of the holy Virgin, to the principal ladies in this town. This poft gives them the exclufive charge of ornamenting the cliurcli, drefling the ftatue of the tutelar faint, and wearing the habit of the order. • It is a fingular fight for a flranger to fee ladies of ail ages in the churches of Sr. Francis and St. Dominique afllft in ofTi- ciating, and wear the habit of thofe holy inilitutors. The Jcfuits have oflfcred a much more auftere mode of fandification than the former to the pious ladies. Ad. D 2 joining I m vl 20 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. joining to their convent, they had a houfc, called Cafa dc los Excrcicios dc las Mugeres, i. c. the Houfe for the Excrcifcs of Women. Married and unmarried women, without the confent of their hufbands or parents, went to be fancTiified there by a retreat of twelve days. They were lodged and boarded at the cxpence of the community. No man was admitted into this fancT:uary, unlcfs he Wore the habit of St. Ignatius j even fervant- maidswere not allowed to attend their miflrefles thither. The exercifes praclifcd in this holy place were medita- tion, prayer, catechetical inftrudici.a, confeflion, and flagellation. They lliewed us the .walls of the cha- pel, yet (lained with the blood, which, as they told us, was difperfed by the rods wherewith penitence arm- ed the hands of thefe Magdalens. All men are brothers, and religion makes no dif- tin(5lion in regard to their colour. There are facred ce- remonies for the ilaves, and the Dominicans have efla- blilhed a religious community of negroes. They have their chapels, maffes, holidays, and decent burials, and all this cofts every negro that belongs to the commu- nity only four reals a year. This community of ne- groes acknowledges St. Benedicft of Palermo, and the Virgin, as their patrons, perhaps on account of thefe words of fcripture j " Nigra fum, fed formofa filia Jeru- falem." On the holidays of thefe tutelary faints, they chufe ^ii, LD. 2(1 Cufa de re for the 1 women, us, went Ive days, ce of the mcfluary, I fervant- 3 thither. - medita- ion, and the cha* hey told ice arm- 5 no dif. icred ce- ive efla- ey have als, and ommu- ' of ne- md the ' )f thefe ia Jcru- 3, they chufe A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 21 km •'j chufe two kings, one to reprefent the king of Spain, the other the Portugueze monarch, and each of them choofes a queen. Two bands, armed and well drefled, form aproceiTion, and follow the kings, march- ing with the crofs, banners, and a band of mufic. They fmg, dance, reprcfcnt battles between the two par:ies, and repeat litanies. This fcOa. iry hifls from morning till night, and the fight of it ir^ civernng. The environs of Buenos Ayics are well cultivated. Environ. of BuenotAyrts, Moft of the inhabitants or that city have their country- and their pro^ duftions. houfes there, called Qviintas, furnifliing all the ne- ceflaries of life in abundance. I except wine, which they get from Spain, or from Mandoza, a vineyard about two hundred leagues from Buenos Ayrcs. The cultivated environs of this city do not extend very far; for at the diftance of only three leagues from the city, there are immenfe fields, left to an innumerable mul- titude of horfes and black cattle. One fcarce meets with a few fcattered huts, on croffing this vail country, ereded not {o much with a view of cuUivating the foil, as rather to fecure the property of the ground, or of the catde upon it to their feveral owners. Travellers, who crofs this plain, find no accommodations, and are obliged to fleep in the fame carts they travel in, and which are the only kind of carriages made ufe of on long journeys here. Thofe who travel on horfcback * are ■'111. i'; '' i A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. f> r .\ * A*. Alr.inHance ufcaitk. are often cxpofcd to lie in the fields, without any co- venng. ' Tlie country is a continued plain, without other fo- rclls than thofe of fruit trees. Ic is fituatcd in the happiefl: climate, and would be one of the moit fer- tile in the world in all kinds of productions, if it were cultivated. The fmall quantity of wheat and maize which is fown tl.^re, multiplies by far more than in our bcil fields in France. Notwithflanding thefc natural advantages, almoil the whole country lies negledled, as well in the neighbourhood of the Spanifh fcttlements, as at the greateft diftancc from them ; or, if by chance you meet with any improve- ments, they are generally made by negro-flaves. Horfes and horned cattle are in fuch great abundance in thefe plains, that thofe who drive the oxen before the carts, are on horfeba.ck ; and the inhabitants, or travellers, when preflcd by hunger, kill an ox, take what they intend to cat of it, and leave the reft as a prey to wild dogs and tygers ^ which are the only dangerous animals in this country. The dogs were originally brought from Europe: the cafe with which they are able to get their livelihood in the open fields, has induced them to leave the habita- ♦ It is now certain, that the animal, here called tvger, is thcCoiigunra or Brown (tyger) Cat, of Penn.Syn. quad, p. 179. a very large animal, and very fierce in hot countries. F. tions, '.»k<3£k^*&iDSai[i. . ,D. any co- other fo- ;d in tlie loil fcr- is, if it eat and ar more Handing country d of the ICC from mprovc- o-flaves. •undance 1 before abitants, ox, take eft as a he only >pe: the hood in habita- a or Brown lerce in hot tions, A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 23 rions, and they have encrcafed their fpecies innumerably. They often join in packs ro attack a wild null, and even a man on horfeback, v/hen they are prefTcd by hunger. The tygers j.re not numerous, except in woody parts, which are only to be found on the banks of rivulets. The inhabitants of thefe countries are known to be very dexterous in- ufmg noofes ; and it is fa(5l, that fome Spaniards do not fear to throw a noofe, even upon a tyger ; though it is equally certain that fome of them unfortunately became the prey of thefe ra- venous creatures. At Montevideo, I faw a fpe- cies of tyger-cat, whofe hairs were pretty long, and of a whitifli grey. The animal is very low upon its legs, about five feet long, fierce, and very fcarce. Wood is very dear at Buenos Ayres, and at Monte- scarcity of . _ wood ; means Video. In the neighbourhood of thefe places, are only pfremedying fome little flirubs, hardly fit for fuel. All timber for building houfes, and conftrudling and refitting the vefTels that navigate in the river, comes from Pa- raguai in rafts. It would, however, be eafy to get all the timber for conftruding the greateil fhips from the upper parts of the country. From Montegrande, where they have the fineft wood, it might be tranfported in fingle round Hems, through the river Ybicui, into the Uraguai, and from the Salto-Chico of the Uraguai, :'T voi' fome 'il! It i .' ill ■', ¥■■ 24 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. fomc vcflels made on puipofe for this ufe, might bring it to fuch places upon the river, where docks were built. Account of The Indians, who inhabit this part of America, north the native! oftJuscoun- and fouth of the river de la Plata, are of that race try. called by the Spaniards Indios braves. — They arc middle-fizcd, very ugly, and aillidcd with the itch. They are oi- a deep tawny colour, which ihcy blacken ilill more, by continually rubbing thcmfclvcs vviih grcafe. Tlicy have no other drefs than is great cloak of roe- deer fkins, hanging down 10 their heels, in which they wrap thcmfclvcs up. Thefe fkins are very well drefled ; they turn ti.e hairy fide inwards, and paint the outfide with various colours. The diflinguifli- ing mark of their cacique is a band or ilrap of leather, wliich is tied round his forehead ; it is formed into a diadem or crown, and adorned with plates of copper. Their arms are bows and ar- rows ; and they likewife make ufc of noofes and of balls''-. Thefe Indians are always on horfeback, and have no fixed habitations, at Icafl not near the Spanifli fcttlements. Sometimes they come with their .' \»" - 1 '■■'-■■■ ■ • Thcfc balls are two round ftones, of the fizc of a two-pound ball, both cnchafed in a Ilrap of leather, and faflencd to the extrci.iitics of a thong, fix or fevcn feci long. The Indians, when on horfeback, ufc this wcnpcn as a fling, and often hit the animal ihcy arc purfuing, at thediflance of three hundred yards. Wives D. lit bring :ks were a, north liat race ley arc he itch. :ken dill 1 grcafe. of roc- Q which ivy well id paint inguilli- Irap of ; it is :d with nd ar- cs and feback, car the h their |h en chafed ffven feet often hit wives A VOYAGE ROUND THE V70RLD. wives to buy brandy oi" che Spaniards -, and they do not ceafe to drink of it, till they are fo drunk as not to be aule to ftir. In order to get ftrong liquors, they fell their arms, furs, and horfes ; and having difpofcd of all they are poflefled of, they feize the horfes they can meet with near the habitations, and make off. Some- '■{ times they come in bodies of two or three hundred men, to carry off the catile from Jie lands of the Spaniards, > or to aaack the caravans of travellers. They plunder )i and murder, or carry them into flavery. This evil can- |- not be remedied : for, how is it polFible o conquer a ■■ ' ,- '^ nomadic nation, in an immenfe uncultivated country, where it would be dilTicult even to find them : befides, thefe Indians are brave and inured to hardihips j and thofe times cxift no longer, when one Spaniard could put a ihoufand Indians to llighr. A fct of robbers united into a body, a few years ago, on the north fide of the river, and may become more dangerous to the Spaniards than they arc at prc- fent, if efllcacious meafures are nat taken to dcflroy them. Some malefactors cfcaped from the hands of juftice, retired to the north of the Maldonadoes ; fome deferters joined them ; their numbers encreafed in- fenfibly ; they took wives from among the Indians, and founded a race of men who live upon robbe- ries. They make inroads, and carry off the car- ? E tk 25 Race of rob- bers, fculed on the north fide of the nver. ^11 26 Extent of tie f ovt'rn:iierit dc la riitn. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. - tic in the Spanifli pofleflions, which they conilu(S\^ to the boundaries of the Brafils, where they barter it with the Pauhlls*, againft arms and clothes. Unhappy are the travellers that fall into their liands. They are no s depen- *■ ■■, * r, which ii ; this, ■•v»-" Ts pieces, »"'''*"' >fi. The ^■l uai (the • rrienteTs, '« ion) are n^.v of the i .#- This 1 fTions of 1 he river :' ic, there f nothing td a repub- i but ? ,r. I <«u.> /" H If W'/itUte IZJ . ^_^ (111* .) r.vanivi'tiNi.N «!• '.'•«l . '• ' ^Itl/lU/lHI/ Islc's (>r Dii-crliiiii' ' i- JJ^ J / JiUi.H} ( .J)clcailo (T ti; .V li T 111 A dr AL HaEK,S^ or M A a J'] /. /. .1 .\ , //v//y ////■ '/'rti A' 7 / /.('/»V /<■/''• w I'mi^ Sayh ^•ul/i '»ll \ _••■• r\i 3 "• I, /,,«./ H'fP.'tn t'llUti i i:;ii M ^iBraate»r:»)tjgt> A VOYAGK ROUND THE WOULD. a7 »" I'llH.l ^%v but the ncccllity oF providing tlicmfclvcs with fiilt, in- <1ucc3 the Spaniards to penetrate into thole parts. Tor this purpofe a convoy of two hundred carts, cfcortcd by three hunched men, fctn out every year from Buenos Ayrcs, and goes to the latitude of forty degrees, to load •the fait in lakes near the fea, where it is naturally formed. I"ormerly the Spaniards ufcd n fend fchooncrs •to the bay of St. Julian, to fetch (lilt. I fliall fpeakof the mifllons in Paraguay when I come to the fecond voyage, which fome circumilances obli- ged us to make again into the river of la Plata ; I Hiall then enter into the account of the expiilfion of the Je- fuits, of which we were witnefTcs. The commerce of the province dc la Plata is lefs pro- fitable than any in SpaniQi America ; this province pro- duces neither gold nor filver, and its inhabitants aro not numerous enough to be able to get at ai/ the other tiches which the foil produces and contains. The xbmmerce of Buenos Ayres itfelf is not in the fame flate it was in about ten years ago ; it is fallen offcon- Tiderably, fince the trade by land is no longer permit- ted ; that is, fmce it has been prohibited to carry Eu- ropean goods by land from Buenos Ayrcs to Peru and Chili; fo that the only objetfls of the commerce with thefe two provinces are, at prcfent, cotton, mules, and E a mate, , 'l !vNI 28 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. ma'c, or the Paia'^uay-iicrb ^ The money and intcrcft of" the nicrehants at Lima have obtained tliis order, a^ainil whic h thofe of 13uenos Ayres have coniphiined. Tlie law-uiit is carried on at Madrid, and 1 "know not how or wiien it will be determined, llowever, Buenos .A) res is a very ricii place: I have feen a regiller-liiip Lu\ from thence, wiili a million of dollars on board; an 1 if all the inhabitants of this country could get rid of- ih.cir le.i'.hcr o- Ikins in Em'ope, that article alone ^li ♦ \*atc, or P.ir.iginy-tc;i, or South-fea-tea, are poiuidcd dry leaves of a jihmt grow in;: in Sjuth Anicric.i. r.iul chicily in Par.ipiiay. llic JcUiits, when in pof- icil'ioii ol'tlic interior p-.rts of the pro\!ni\s of Paraguay, got. by a maiuruvrc fimi- ]iv to I'ii.u of the Dutch, ill rc!_,ar(! to tiic fpice-tr.uic, the cxclmlvc commerce of t!iis connioility. 1 hcv ciikiv.itci! t! pLint in cnclolures, U}wn 'ho rivers l^ra- glial i,nd Par ilia, anJ wlicrcvcr it gr>.\v wild, it w.is (icflniyci! j and after the fpace of nineteen years thjy bjcnme tlie fole niaflcrs of this trade, which was very lucrative ; for as this plant is thought to he all excellent rellorativc, and a good paregoric, and thcie.T.c cf iiidifpenfibie neccirity to the workmen in the famous Peruvian nine?:, it is c.irricd confiant'y to J'crii ami Chili ; the whole coii!'umptioa of it being yc.'.rly upon an avcraj^c of i6o,OC."! arrobas, of 25 pounds Spinilli weight eich; and th-: jM-ice i;, a: a me 'iiim, thirty-fix pi.itters per arroba, fo that this ]i!ant w.is wortli to the Jefnits 5,76c,'?oc piaftrcs per ann. the tentli part of which fimi ir.u't be dedncleti out Oi the who! J, for inltrimxiits of .i^'riculturc, the ercilioii an the coai fell ll'rt prepirtd, with the (talks left to it, !nr wh.ch rtafcn it I- likewi!* died Yerva c!c P.d- s j l;ut tl;e Caa-niini or Ytrva «leCaamini i:, the bed fort an.i iuW. dearer ; theCai-cuys will not keep (o long as thw- other two forts. 'liiispl.Kit i.. tl.oglit to be t!ie Ilex Caflino, J. inn. Sp. pi. p. 1 S I. or the n;ihoon-hoily. Poifter'i. Flora Amciie. Septcntr. p. 7. and C-'.itelby cir. y t. 31. F. would 1 intcrcft is order, ipliiinet!. Lnovv not , Buenos i!lcr-(hip [1 board; d get rid cle alone s of a jilant when in po(- Kicuvrc fimi- omnicrce of : rivers lira- aiui after tlie •, which \v,is , and a y;ocv.l the famous coiifumption iinilli weight i.it this ]i!ant if which Aim crciTlIoii ami ; and cloath- lillions of pi- ig men fold >( them, and • fonic pLuu;; :.ill this plant Dthers call it i, Laa-mini, (lalkb left to lini or Ytrva p I'o long as in. Sp. pJ. p. Cateil.y tar. would A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 29 would fullicc to enrich them. Before the laft war, they carried on a prodigious contraband- trade with the co- lony oFSimto Sacramento, a place in the pofTeffion of the ^°l°;ijf^ Portuguefc, upon the left fide of the river, almoft di- '"'"'°- rcaiy oppofire Buenos Ayrcs. But this place is now fo nuich furrounded by the new works, ereclcd by the Spaniards, that it is impoffible to carry on any illi- cit trade with it, unlcfs by connivance; even the Ponuguefe, who inhabit the place, are obliged to get their fubfiflence by fca from the Brafils. In Ihort, this flation bears the fame relation to Spain here, as Gibraltar does in Europe ; with this difTerence only, that the former belongs to the Portuguefe, and the lat- ter to the Engl ifli. ■ ;• '. The town of Montevideo has been fettled forty years Account of ' ' the town ot sgo, is fituated on the north fide of the river, thirty Montevideo leagues above its mouth, and built on a peninfula, which lies convenient to fecure from the eafl wind, a bay of about two leagues deep, and one league wide at its entrance. At the wcftern point of this iflc, is a fmgle high mountain, which ferves as a look-out, and has given a name to the town ; the other lands, v/hich furround it, are very low. That fide which looks towards a plain, is defended by a citadel. Seve- ral batteries guard the fide towards the fea and the har- ]x)ur. There is a battery upon a very little ifle, in the bottom H 30 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. bottom of the bay, called Iflc an Fmnrois, or French* Anchorage in ifjjnd. Tlic ancliorauc at Montc\icleo is laic, tlioupjh this br.y. ^ • _ fomctimcs molcftcd by pamperos, whirh arc florms from the fouth-well, accompanied by violent tcmpclls. There is no great depth of water in tl)c whole hay ; and one may moor in three, four, or five fathoms of water in a very fol't mud, where the biggefl. mcrchant- lliips run a-ground, without receiving any damage; but Iharp-buik fliips cafily bre:;k their backs, and arc loll. The tides do not come in rcc;ular; according as the wind is, the water is high or low. It is neccilary to be cautious, in regard to a chain oi" rocks that ex- tends fomc cables-length off the call poir.*i of the bav ; the fca forms breakers upon them, and the people of this country call them la Punta de las Carretas. It is an ex- IVIontevideo has a governor of its own, who is im- cellc-nt pUce to put ill at mediately under the orders of the rjvcrnor-gcneral of for rcfrcili- '' jo "^^"'^* the province. The country round this town is almoll entirely uncultivated, and furniOies neither wheat nor maize ; they mull get flcur, bifcuit, and other provi- fions for the fliips from Buenos Ayrcs. In the gardens belonging to the town, and to the adjoining houfes, they cultivate fearce any legumes ; there is, however, plenty of melons, calabalhes, figs, peaches, apples, and quinces. Cattle are as abundant there as in any other part of this country j which, together with a the 1 '. i V\ .D. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 3« French* though ftornis empcds. >le bay ; lonis oi" :rchant- amagc ; nd arc ding as eccilary liat ex- ic bay ; 3plc of the wholefomeners of the air, makes Montevideo an excellent place to put in at for the crew ; only good mea- fures mull be taken to prevent defer tion. Every thing invites the failor thither ; it being a country, where the firft refletftion which flrikcs him, on fetting his feet on fliore, is, that they live there almoft without work- ing. Indeed, how is it pofl/ble to refift the compari- fon of fpending one's days in idlcnefs and tranquility, in a happy climate, or of languifliing under the weight of a conftantly laborious life, and of accelerating the misfortunes of an indigent old age, by the toils of the fea? is im- cral of almofl Mt nor provi- ardcns loufes, vcvcr, pplcs, as in • with the x,< I Iff, - / :j.a::&'Pv G II A P. F-', i'j .■:'.i»'j^ :^:'. -.'a ^ ..^^ ,;i;. t I .1 111 3* ,767. February. Departure A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. ,H]Af 'If .<■..< liyif^ ". . ; J-' ;v '■ ', "> ..... .. C h' A P. III. .. D ■priVfurj f'-jm Monf.^vuico ; ?iJVfgafhn to the Malouhies ; ds- liwry of them int< the hanls of the Spaniards ; hiforical di' grcjjionc-thefuhjcelofthifeifmds, ^ ' 11 iv 2Bth of February, 17^)7, we weighed from Montevideo, in company with two SpaniQi fri- from Monte- Qr^tcs, and a tartane laden with cattle. 1 agreed with video. ^ Don Rui?, that whilil we were in the river, he lliould lead th.e way ; but that as foon as we were got out to fea, I was to conducft the fcjuadron. However, to ob- viate the dangers in cafe of a feparation, I gave each of the frigates a pilot, acquainted with the coails of the Malouincs. In the afternoon we were obliged to come to an anchor, as a fog prevented our feeing either the main land, or ilie iile oi ilores. The next morning wc liad contrary wind ; h nvovtr, I cxpecfted that we fhould have weighed, as the ilrong currents in the river fa- voured us ; but feeing the day ahiioll at an end, with- out any fignal being given by the Spanilh commodore I fent an oflicer to tell lilm, that having had a fig'u of the ille of Mores, I found nnielf too near the Englilh fand-bank, and that I advifed s\e fliould weigh tlie next day, whether the wind wiS fair or not. Don lluis anfwcr- -D. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. -':■: ■> !)ies ; (L*^ icd from LiiiQi fri- ^cil with le lliouUl pt out to r, to ob- z each of ) of the to come ithcr the rning wc /c fhould river fa- kI, wiih- imodorc fight of EngHlh I the next Don Ruis anfwcr- torm in the river. anfvvcrcd, that he w?.s in the hands of the pilot of the river, who would not weigh the anchor till we had a fettled fair wind. The ofliccr then informed him from me, that I flicyiild fail by day-break ; and that I would wait for him, by plying to windward, or by an- choring more to the north, unlefs the tides or the vio- lence of the wind fhould feparate us againft my will. The tartane had not cafl: anchor the lafl night ; and we loft fight of her, and never law her again. She re- turned to Montevideo three weeks after, without ful- filling its intended expedition. The night was ftormy; the pamperos blew very violently, and made us drag g our anchor ; however, we caft another anchor, and that fixed us. By day-break we faw theSpanifh fliips, with their top-mafts handed, main-yards lowered, and had dragged their anchors much further than ourfelves. The wind was ftill co) trary and violent, the fea very high, and it was nine o'clock before we could proceed under our main-fails ; at noon we lofl fight of the Spaniards, who remained at anchor, and the third of March in the evening we were got out of the river. During our voyage .o the Malouines, we had vari- Voyage from able winds from N. W. to S. W. almoft always fiormy Montevideo weather and high feas : we were obliged to try under our main-fail on the i6th, having fuflered fome damage. Since the 17 th in ilie afternoon, ^ when 1767- March. to the Ma- louines. I 34 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. ii! ' \l 'h 1 ': hU 'll when wc came into foundings, the weather was very ^oggy. The I pth, not feeing the land, though the horizon was clear, and I was call of the Scbald's iQes by my reckoning, I was afraid I had gone beyond the Malouines, and therefore rcfolved to fail weftward ; the wind, which is a rare circumllancc, favoured my rc- folution. I proceeded very faft in twenty -four hours, and having then found the foundings ofi' the coaft of Patagonia, I was furc as to my polition, and fo pro- ceeded again very confitlently to the eaftward. Indeed, the 2 I ft, at four o'clock in the afternoon, we difcovered the Sebald's ifles, remaining in N. E. 4 E. eight or ten leagues diftant, and foon after we faw the coaft of the Malouines. I could have fparcd myfclf all the trouble I had been in, if 1 had in lime failed clofe-hauled, in direalon t' order to approach the coall of America, and fo find the tivi»courfe. iflands by their latitude. The 2 3d in the evening we entered and anchoied in the great bay, where the two Spanilh frigates likewife came to an anchor on the 24111. They had fufTered greatly during their courfc ; the ftorm on the i 6 th having obliged them to bear away ; and the com- modore-lhip, having fliipped a fea, which curried away her quarter-badges, broke through the win- dows of the great cabbin, and poured a great quantity of water into her. Alnioll all the cattle they took J on Faolt com- ■ D. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 3S was very ugh the lid's iQes yond the ard ; the I my rc- ir hours» coaft of fo pro- Indecd, ifcovered ht or ten ift of the e trouble lukd, in ) find the :hoied in likewife fufTered tlic 1 6 th the com- i curried he win- quantity ley took on on board at Montevideo for the colony, died through the badnefs of the weather. Thj twenty- fifth the three vcflels came into port, and moored. The firfl of April I delivered our fettlement to the ThcSpani. • ard- ta' e pol- Spaniards, who took pofTeflion of it, by planting the l^fli"",,^,!^^'' Spanidi colours, which were falutcd at fun-rifmg and Jquj^^''" fun-fetting from the fhore and from the fliips. 1 read ^P"'- the king's letter to the French inhabitants of this in- fant colony, by which his majcfty permits their re-^ maining under the government of his moft catholic hiajelly. Some families profited of this permiflion ; the reft, with the garrifon, embarked on board the Spanifli frigates, which failed for Montevideo the 27 th in the morning*. ' , 1^ ...» . . „; 1... jv., •^1 Some hiftorical remarks concerninor thefe ifles, iiii^oncai^Je. •-' ' tails con- will, 1 hope, not be deemed unnecefTary. '"!■ t r *>^; cerninethc ' * ' ■' Malouines. It appears to me, that the firft difcovei7 of tl>€a:ia AmeiicoVer- pucci difco- tnay be attributed to the celebrated Araerico Vefpiicci, vers them. •who, in the third voyage for the difcovcry of Amcv * When I delivered the fettlement to tlie Rriuiunis, all the expcnccs, what- foever, which it had cofttill the fiillof April 17^7, amounted' to bc^^OCbltVl-fi^, including the intereft of five per cent, on tlic fiims expended (nice the full ^miip- nient. France having acknowledged the catholic kin'f:, right to tliC MiUuiftPi, he, by a principle of the law of nations, owed no rcimbmfcnicnt to t|ie&,^fljS. However, as hi.s majeOy took all the fliips, hoais, ."oods, arms, arnnuinltion, and provifions that belonged to our fcitU'mcnt, he being equally ju(t AAxl' ge- nerous, defired that we fhould he reimburfctl for what wc had laid out ; and the above fum was remitleJ to us by his treafurerf ; part at Paris, and the rcfl at Buenos Ayres. ,,, , , .,,,,, ... F ^ rica. A VOYAGE ROlfND THE WORLD. • i ■ !■ , i I I ii "' Fiencli and f.iii'iiili n.iU" gaiors vifit them after him. ncii, failed alon^'th northern coaHs of thcni in 15*02, It is true, he did not know whether it belonged to an ille, or whether it was i>art of the eontinent j but it is caly to eonelude, from tlie courfe he took, from the latitudes he came to, and from the very deferipiion he gives of the coalls, that it is that of the Malouines. I i'x^il ailcrt witli equal right, that Deauchefne Gouin, rc^i\'.vi< "^ from the South Seas in 1700, anchored on the «.aft II '.' of the Malouines, thinking he was at the Sebald's iflcs. ' -•'• '^' ■.»-)! uq ^H'.. His account fays, that after difcovering the iflc to which he gave his own name, he anchored on the call fide of the moll earterly of Sebald's ifles. I muft firft of all obfcrve, that the Malouines, being in the mid- dle between the Sebald's illes and the iQe of Beauchefne, have a confulerable extent, and that he muft have ne- cclFarily fallen in with the coaft of the Malouines, as is impoflible not to fee them, when at anchor caftward of the Sebald's ifles. Befides, Beauchefne faw a fmglc ifle of an immenfe extent ; and it was not till after he had cleared it, that he perceived two other little ones : he palled through a nioill country, fdlcd with marlhes and frefli-water lakes, covered with wild-gecfe, tcal^;, ducks, and fnipcs ; he faw no woods there; all this agrees prodigioully well with the Ma- louines. Sebald's iilcs, on the contrary, arc four lit- ♦ tie in ij-G^, <-(! to an but it is from the iption he nines. I e Gouin, lored on as at the le ific to 1 the caft muft firft the mid- auchefne, have ne- lalouincs, t anchor lefne faw was not ived two cf/untry, [ired with lo woods the Ma- four lit- tle ; •/ A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 37 lie rocky iflcs, where William Dampier, in i^'^Zt ^^' tempted in vain to water, and could not find a good anchoring-ground. • m Be this as it will, the Malouines have been r^J lit- tle known before our days— Mod of the relations re- port them as ifles covered with woods. Richard Haw- kins, who came near the northern coafl of them, which he called Hawkins's Maiden- land, and who pretty- well dcfcribed them, aflerts that they were inhabited, and pretends to have feen .v-^ there. At the begin- ning of this century, the St. uis, a fliip from St. Malo, anchored on the ' \L: eaft fide, in a bad bay, under the ihelter of fomf litiic iflcs. called the ifles of Anican, after the name v me privateer ; but he only Hayed to water there, and continued his courfe, with- out caring to furvey them. However, their happy pofition, to ferve as a place of The French 'cttle theie> refrelhment or flielter to ihips going to the Souih-Seas, ftruck the navigators of all nations. In the beginning of the year 1763, the court of France rcfolvcd to form a fettlcment in thefe ifles. I propofed to govern- ment, that I would cfiablidi it at my own expence, affifted by Mefirs. de Nerville and d'Arboulin, one my coufin-german, the other my uncle. I immediately got the Eagle of twenty guns, and the Sphinx of twelve, con{lru«5ted and furniflied with proper neccf- faries I I ! I 38 Account of the manner in which it was made. A VOYAGE ROUND THK WORTD. Cwics for Aicli an cxpccliiion, by ihc care of M. Duclas Giiyor, now my rccoiid. I embarked iVvcral Acadian fiimilics, a laborious iiitclli^cnt ict of pt'oplc, wlio ought to be dear to France, on account of iljc inviol- able attaelimcnt they have Ihcwn, as lionell but un- fortunate citizens. .. The I 5th of September I failed from St. Malo. M. dc Nerville was on board tlie I'agle with me. Alter touching twice, once at the ille of St. Catharine, on the coaft of tlicHrafds, and once atMonievideo, where we took in many horfes and horned cattle, wc made the land of Sebald's iiles the silt of January, 1764. I failed into a great bay, formed by the coaft of the Malouincs, between its N. W. point, and Sebald's iiles ; but not finding a good anchoring ground, failed along the nonh coaft; and, coming to the eaftcrn extremity of thcfe iflcs, 1 entered a great bay on the third of le- bruary, which feemed very convenient to me, for form- ing the firft fettlcmcnt. ' .... r, . . t The fame illufion which made Hawkins, Woods Rogers, and others, believe that thcfe ifles were covered with wood, a6>.ed likewife upon my fellow voyagers. We were furprifed, when we landed, to foe that what wc took for woods as we failed along the coafl, was nothing but bullies of a tall rulh, (landing very clofc together. The bottom of its ilalks being dried, got the D. Duclos \cadian c, wlio inviol- but uu- M. (Jc Alter , on the wc took land oi led into louincs, but not )ng the niity of i of Ic- 31* fornv . I; . ' % Woods covered oyagcrs. lat what afl, was txy clofc :icd, got the A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. the colour of a dead leaf to the height of about five feet ; and from thence fprings a tuft of ruflies, which crown this ftalk ; fo that at a diftance thcfe flalks to- gether have the appearance of a wood of middling height. Thefc ruflies only grow near the fea fide, and on little ides ; the mountains on the main land are, iu fome parts, covered all over with heath, v.hich are eafily niiftaken for bullies. In the vDiious excurfions, which I immediately ordered, and partly made in the ifland myfelf, wc did not find any kind of wood j nor could we difcovcr that rhefc parts had been frequented by any nation. I only found, and in great quantity too, an exceed- ing good turf, which might fupply the dcfe<5t of wood, both for fuel, and for the forge j and I palTed through immenfe plains, every where intcrfecfted by little ri- vulets, with very good water. Nature offered no other fubfiftence for men than fi(h and fcveral forts of land and water fowl. It was very fingular, on our arrival, to fee all the animals, which had hitherto been the only inhabitants of the ifland, come near us without fear, and Ihew no other emorions than thofc which curiofity infpires at the fight of an unknown objeft. The birds fuiTcred themfelves to be taken with the hand, and fome would come and fettle upon people that flood flill; 39 4© A VOYAGE ROUND THE WOULD. ftill ; 1"() true it is, that ir..in docs not bear a chrirac^cr- ilHc mark oftcrocity, which mere inlliiiCt is capable of pointing out to tlicle weak animals, the being tliat livcB upon their 1)U)0(1. This conridence was not ot long durauon wiili them ; for they foon learnt to milh nil their moll cruel enemies. Flirt year. The 17 th uf Marcli, I fixed upon the place of the r.cw colony, which at full was only conipofcd of twenty fcvcn perlbns, among whom were live women, and three children. We ii-t to work ininu'diaicly to l)uild them huts covered with julhes, to conllruct a magazine, and a little forr, in the middle of wliicii a fmall obclilk was erctflcd. The king'j clligy adorned one of its fides, and und-^- its foundations we buried fome coins, together wiih a medal, on one lide of which was graved the date of the undertaking, and on the other the figure of the king, with thefe words for the exergue, " Tibi ferviat ultima Thule." * I f! ' The iiifuiiption on this medal \Yas as follows. Settlement of the Ides M.iluniiifs, fitinted ia 51'' 30' of S. !atituiic, 60" 50' ^V. long, from the meridian of Paris, by the £ag!e frigate, captain P. Duclos Ciuyot, eaptain of a i\(c fliip, and the fj)liinx Hoop , c.iptain 1'. Chcnard de la tji;audjis, lieutenant of a fiigatc, eouipped by I.oiiis Antoiiie dc Bougainville, tolui.tl of infantry, captain of a (hip, chief of the expedition, G. dc Nervilie, captain of infantry, and P. d' Arbouiiii, poll- miller general of France: con- Oruction of a fort, pnd an obelilk, decorated wiili a mcd;illion of his niajcfty Louis ^ v. after the plans of A. L'lluiliier, eiigiuicr and geogiapher of the lield and iMiiy, fcrving on this expedition; during the udminiftrauon of £'. de Choifeul, duke of Stainville, in February, 1764. And the exergue. Conamur tcimes grandia. How- ( ill A VOYAGK ROUND THE WORLD." 41 racier- ;iblc ot at livcfi 11 ill mil of-" the ofcd ot woiiK-n, :iuly uj llriict ;i wliicli a acloinctl buried lidc of and on rords for II iif, 60" 50' P, Duclos hcnaiil Jc la imipainville, dc Ncrvillc, r.incc : coii- lajtfty I'Ouis he IkUl and de Choifeul, How- Howcvcr, to encourage the colonifts, and cncrcafc their reliance on fpecdy afliftancc, which I promilcd • them, M, de Nerville confented to remain at their ' head, and to Ihare the rifks to which luis weak fcttlc- iTicnt was cxpoled, at the extremity of the globe, where ir was at that time the only one in fuch a high fou- thern latitude. Tlie fiFth of April, 1764, I Iblemnly took poflelUon of the iiles in the king's name, and the eighth I la. led for France. « - • ' '"'' The fifth of January, 1765, I faw my colonills Second ywr. again, and found them healthy and content. After landing what I liad brought to their afTiftance, I went into the ftraits of Magalhaens, to get a cargo of limber, palifadocs and young trees, and I began a navigation, which is become neceflary to the colony. Then I found the (liips of commodore Byron, who, after fur- veying the Malouines for tlie firft time, palTed the ftraits, in order to get into the Soudi-feas. When I left the Malouines the 27 th of April following, the colony confided of twenty-four pcrfons, including the of- ficers. • . V . In i-jCs we fcnt back the Eagle to the Malouines, and the king fcnt the Etoile, one of his flore fliips, with her. Thcfc two veffcls, after landing the provilions and new colonills, failed together to take in wood in the flraifs of Magalhaens. The fctilemcnt now began ^ to pi' m ?r |. 42 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. to get a kind of form. The governor and the ordon- nateur * lodged in very convenient houie^ built ob ilone, and he other inliabirants lived in hoiifes of which the walls were m^ule of fods, Tlicrc were three magazines, both for the public llores, and tliofe cf ")rivate perfons. The wood out of the flraits had ferved to build feveral vcfTels, and to conllruel fchooner,! for the purpofe cf furveying the coait. The Eagle re- turned 10 France from this lall voyage, v/iih a cargo of tra'i oil and feals-fkins, tanned in tiie illand. Several trials had been made towards cultivation, which gave no reafon to dcfpair of fuccefs, as the greateft part of the corn brouglit from Europe was eafily naturalized to the country. The cncrcafc of the cattle could be depended upon, and the number of inhabitants a- mounted then to about one hundred and fifty. However, as I have jufl: mentioned, commodore IJyron came in January, i 765, to furvcy the Malouines. lie touched to the weiUvard of our fettlcment, in a port which we had already named Port de la Croifadc, and he took pofTcllion of thefe illands for the crown of England, without leaving a fingle inhabicant there It was not before 1766, that the Englifli fcnt a colony to fettle in Port de la Croifadc, whicli they had named * An olTiccr who las the care of the florcs. Port i ;•*• D. liC oidon- y built Oi houics oi-' were three >• 1 thole cl"' < [Iraits had : I'ehooneri e Eagle rc- n cargo ot" i I. Several vhicli gave itell part of i naturalized c could be labitanis a- fty. commodore e Malouines. .C3 emcnt, in a la Croifade, or he crown ot to 3itant there \ -n cnt a colony * r had named h& roit A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Port Egmont ; and captain Macbride, of the Jafon fri- gate, came to our fettlcment the fame year, in the be- ginning of December. He pretended that thefc parts belonged to his Britannic majefty, threatened to land by force, if he fliould be any longer refufed that li- berty, vifited the governor, and fiiilcd away again the Xame day. Sucli was the flate of the Malouines, when we put them into the hands of the Spaniards, whofe prior right was thus inforced by that which we pofTcfTed by making the firll fettlement ■'. The account of the pro- du(5lions of thcfe ides, and the animals which are to be found there, will furnifh matter for the following chapter, and are the refult of the obfervations of M. dc Nerville, during a refidencc of three years. I believed • The author has on piirpofe omlttod to mention, that the Englifli are the {lifl chfcovcrcrs of thefe iflcs. Captain Davis, in the expedition of 1592, under tiic (.command of Sir Thomas Cavciuiilli, faw thcni ; and lb did Sir Uicliaul Hawkins two years after in 1594, ami calh'd them Hawkins's Maiden Land. In the vear 1598 they were feen by the Dutchman Sebald de Waert, and called Seb.dd's iflcs, and with that name tliey were put in all Dutch charts. Dampicr dlfcm ered them likewifc in 1683, but fufpcc^cd they had no water. Strong gave thefe iiles, in the year i6'c9, tht name of Falkiand-lllands, wiiich v. as adopted by the cclcbiated nflrononier HLdley, and is now become of univcrfal i;fe in all our maps and charts. The privatecrj ii\ the times of the wars of king AVillam and iiucen Mary frequently faw tb'vfe i'.lcs, and no fooner than in 1699-1700 they were fien for the firit time by a rreiK'lur.an called lleauchefne Gouiii. Jt is pretty evident f:om thir- account, , that the Englilli h.ave an und.oulied prior claim to iliefe barren rocks ami marlhes, fituated in a cold e!i;vate, fuhjcft to the levereli: rigours of winter, without the benefit of woods to alleviate tin ni ; and on which, was it not for the v/rcrclied UilI of turf, all the Freiith, Eiiglilh, and Spanilli fetilementj would luux been llarved ■ V ith cold. r. O 2 it 43 'I : ; V 44 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. it was fo much more proper to enter upon this detail, as I\I. dc Comnieryon has not been at the Malouines, and as their natural hiftory is in Ibmc regards im- portant *. CHAP. IV. Detail of the natwal bijiory of the Jjlcs Malouines. jhey bear. A Country which has been but lately inhabited al- ways ofTcrs intcrelling objcels, even to thofc who arc little vcrfed in natural hillorv; and though their re- marks may not be looked upon as authorities, yet they may fatisfy, in part, the curiofity of the invcfligators of the fyftcm of nature. The firfl \\vi\z we landed upon thefc ides, no in- viting objects came in fight, and, excepting the beauty of tlic port in which we lay, we knew not what could prevail upon us to flay on this apparently barren ground: the horizon terminated by bald mountains, the land lacerated by the fca, which feems to chiim the empire over it ; the fields bearing a dead afpciff, for want of inhabitants ; no woods to comfort thufe ill ♦ Tlu; \V(.ik wliidi I now puWifli was already fininicJ, wlicn the Hiftory of a Voyage to \Vx Malouines, liy Dom Pcrnetty, apffaicil, othcrwifc 1 Ihoukl have tnattcd the lullowing accounts. who m R L D. this detail^ Malouincs, ■gards im- '1 'i ouincs, abltcd al- :Iiore who i their rc- !, yet they igators of s, no in- ic beauty lat coukl ' barren ^initains, to chiim 1 afpec% Tt thofe f lillory of a iliould liavc wlio ■■il'i A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. who intended to be the firfl fettlers ; a vafl filencc, now and then interrupted by the howls of marine monfters ; and, laftly, the fad uniformity whichreigned throughout j all thcfc were difcouraging objects, which feemed that in fuch dreary places nature would refufc afliftance to the efforts of man. But time and experience taught us, that labour and condancy would not be without fuccefs even there. The refources with which nature prefented us, were inimenfe bays, flieltcred from the violence of the winds by mountains, which poured forth cafcades and rivulets ; meadows covered with rich pallures, proper for the food of numerous flocks ; hikes and pools to water them ; no contefls concerning the property of the place ; no fierce, or poifonous, or importune animals to be dreaded j an innumerable quantity of the moil ufeful amphibia ; birds and fifh of tlic bcfl talle ; a combullible fubilancc to fupply the defect of wood ; plants known to be fpecifics a- gainfl: the difcafcs coiinnon to fca- faring men ; a heahliy and continually temperate climate, much more fit to make men healthy and robuft, than thofccnchant- countrics, where abiaulancc icfeif becomes noxious, and heat caufes a total iiiucSlivity. Thcfe advant- ages {oow expunged the imnreillons w^hich the firft appearance had made, and juftified the at- tempt. ■ '' ' To 4^* i H 1 t i 4^ A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. V To this we may add, tluit the Englifli in their rela- tion of Port-Egmonr, have not ferupled to lay, that il>e countries adjacent fiirnillicd every tiling neecllhry for a good fettlemcnr. I'heir talle for natural hillory will, ^vlthout doubt, engage theni to make iind to publilh enquiries which will rectify tliefe. Gcoprapi.icni Tlic Malouincs aic fituatcd between 51'' and 52" 30' rviaioaa..-. S. lar. and ds"" 30 Vv. long, from Paris ; and between 00 and 90 leagues diilant iiom the eoafl of America or Patagonia, and from the entrance of ilic llraits of IVlagalhaens. The map wich we give of thefe illanc;, lias certain- ly not a geographical accuracy, which mull have been the work of many years. It may, however, fcrvc to in- dicate nearly the extent of thefe '.^cs |jom e:i(l to wed, and from north to fouih ; the pofition of the coafts, along which oiu ilins have failed ; tlie figure and dcpdi of liie grcuc bays, and the direction of- the prin- cipal mountains *. The harbours, whicli we have examined, are both cxtenfive and fccure ; a tough ground, and iilands liap- pily fituatcd to break the fury of the waves, contribiue to make them fafe and eafilv dcfcnilble ; thev liavclit- Of the hr.r- bours. * As M. lie Boug;iiiivill<\i mnp of ilu; M.i!( iiincb or Fjlkl.irnl's iilcs, is a nu-rc iiuiccui ate oui-liuc ; \vc rikr our readers to the more e>;;Kl plans of llitfc iiLjul;', intblinic'I m England. F. tic D. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 47 'ir icla- liat ilvj •V tor a will, mblilli vTcn So crira or aits of ccrtai li- ve been c to in- to wcfl, : eoafts, lire and he prin- ire botli uls liap- ntrihure have lit- , i. .1 rn'n." tic dc creeks, in which the fmallefl vefTels can retire. The rivulets come down into the lea ; fo that nothing can be more eafy, than to take in the provifion of fre(h water. The tides arc fubject to all the emotions of the fca, Tides. which furiounds the iflcs, and have never rifen at fettled periods, which could have been calculated. It has (uily been obfcrvcd, that, juil before high-water, they liavc three determinate variations ; the fca, at that time, in Icf;: ::han a quart..v of an hour, rifes and falls thrice, as if- fnakcn up and down; and this motion is more violent during the folfdces, the ecj[uinQxes, and the full moons. The winds are generally variable ; hnt ftill thofe winds. between north and weft, and between fou'U anrl wefl, are more prevalent than the others, hi winter, when the winds arc between north and weft, the weatbtv '. fog- gy and rainy ; if between weft and fourh, they bring fnow, hail, and lioar froft ; if from betv. een fouth and call, they arc Icfs attendc with niifts, buf violent, though not quite fo much , the fumm.er winds, which blow between foiuh-weft md north-weft: thefe latter, which clear the fky and dry the foil, do not begin to blow till the fun appears above the horizon ; they en- creafe as tliat luminary rifes ; are at the greateft height when he crolFes the meridian j and lofe their force when m ■■?■!, 11! ' 1^ m »; .1 'I- m is >H t-^'ll 8 Wattf A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. when he goes to difappcar behind the mountains. Ec- (ides being regulated by the I'un's motion, they are likcvnfc fubjcJl to be governed by tlic tidc^, which cn- crcafe their force, and ibmorinic3 ahcr tlicir dirtclion. Ahnofl all the nights throughout the year are calm, fair, and Ihar-light, clpccially in iummer. Tlic Tnow, wliich is brought by the fouth-wcft winrls in winter, is inconfidcrable; it lies about two months upon the tops of tlie higheft mountains; and a day or two, at moll, upon tlic furface of the other grounds. The rivers do not freeze, and the ice of lakes and pools luis not been able to bear men upwards of twenty-four horus toge- ther. The hoar-frolls in fpiing and autumn do no damage to the plants, and at lun-rifing are converted into dew. in fummcr, thunder is fcldom heard ; and, upon the v^holc, we fcLc neither great cold, nor great heat; and the diftiadlion of feal'ons appeared almoll infcnrrole. In fuch a climate, where the revolutions of the feafons aflfccl bv no means the conllitution, it is natural that men fliould be ftrong and healthy ; and this has been experienced during a ftay of three years, rhc few mineral fubflanccs found at the Malouines, arc a ^ roof of the goodncfs of tlic water, which is every where conveniently fituatcd ; no noxious ]dants irl^■ :l the places where it runs tlirough ; its bed is gc- nci dly gravel or fand, and lomctimcs turf, which give 4 it /$ A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. it a little ycllowini hue, without diminifliing its good- ncfs and lightnefs. All die plains have much more depth of foil than is SoU. necclTary for the plough to go in. The foil is (o much interwoven with roots of plants, to the depth of near twelve inches, that it was ncceflliry, before it was pof- fible to proceed to cultivation, to take ofT this cruH: or layer; and to cut ii, that it might be dried and burnt. It is known, that this procefs is excellent to make the ground better, and we made ufc of it. Below this firll layer, is a black mould, never Icfs than eight or ten inches deep, and frequently much deeper ; the next is the yellow, or original virgin-foil, whofe depth is un- detcrininate. It reils upon flrata of flate and flones ; among which no calcareous ones have ever been found ; as the trial has been made with aquafortis. It feems, that the iUcs are without ftones of this kind. Journeys have been undertaken to the very tops of the mountains, in order to find fome ; but they have never procured any ether than a kind of quartz, and a fand- ilone, not friable j which produced fparks, and even a kind of phofphorefccnt light, accompanied with a fmell of brimHone. Stones proper for building are not wanting ; for moft of the coafts are formed of them. . There are flrata of a very hard and fmall grained Hone ; and likewifc other ilrata, more or Icfs iloping, wliich H confift 4? so Tuffand Its it A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. conHfl of flatcs, and of .1 kind of llone containing par- ticles of talc. There arc likcwil'j iloncs, which divide into Olivers J and on them we obferved iniprcllions ol a kind of follil fhell.i, unknown in thcl'c Icasj \vc made grind-floncs of it to Iharpcn our tools. The flonc taken out of the quarries was ycllowilh, and not yet come to a funicicnt degree of hardnefs, as it could be cut with a knife ; but it hardened in the air. Clay, fand, and earth, fit fur making potters-ware and bricks, were cafdy found. The turf, which is generally to be met with above the clay, goes up a great way in the country. Troni whatever point one fets our, one could not go a league ■without meeting with confiderable (Iraui of it, always cufy to be dillinguinied by ■ the inequalities in the ground, by which fome of its fides were difcovcred. Ic continually is formed from the remains of roots and plants in marihy places ; which are always known by a lliarp -pointed kind of rulhes. This turf being taken in a bay, near oiu' habitation, where it Iliews a furface of tv7clve feet high to the open air, gets a fuiucient de- gree of dryncfs there. This was what we made ufe of; its fmell was not difagreeablc ; it burnt v.cll, and its cinders, or embers, were fuperior to ihofc of fea- coals ; becaufe, by blowing them, it was as cafy to light a candle as with burning coals -, it was fufhcient for ,D. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. SI iiiig par- ch divide ilions ot fcas ; vvc »l3. The , and not s it could iv. Clay, nd biicks, ,'iih above y. Trom 3 a league it, always cs in the JVC red. Ic roots and known by jing taken s a I'urface liiicient de- madc ufe well, and oie of Tea- as cafy to LS iufhcicn: for for all the works of the forge, excepting the joining of great pieces. '* All the fea-fliorcs, and the inner parts of the Plants, ifles are covered with a kind of gladiolus, or ra- ther a fpecies of gramcn. It is of an excellent green, and is above fix feet high, and fcrvcs for a re- treat to feals and fca-lions : on our journics it flicltcr- ed us, as it did them. By its afllftancc we could take up our quarters in a moment. Its bent and united ilalks, formed a thatch or roof, and its dry leaves a pretty good bed. It was likewifc with this plant that we covered our houfes ; its ftalk is fwcct, nourifliing, and preferred to all other food by the cattle. Next to this great plant, the heath, the fhrubs, and the gum- plant were the only objeds that appeared in the fields. The other parts are covered by fmall plants, which, in moid ground, are more green and more fubilantial. The flirubs were of great ufe to us as fuel, and tney were afterwards kept for heating the ovens, together with the heath ; the red fruit of the latter attracTied a great quantity of game in the fcafon. '^" The gum-plant, which is new and unknown in r,j.,,„„^ Europe, dcfervcs a more ample dcfcription. It is of a S"'"^''""' bright green, and has nothing of the figure of a plant ; one would fooner take it to be an excrefccncc of tlic earth of this colour ; for it has neither llalk, branches, H 2 j^jQj, ' 1 i 1 s, I W I -i ^2 A VOYAGE ROUND TIIF. WORLD. nor leaves— Its fuif.icc, which is convex, is oi fo clofc a texture, that nothing can be introchiccd bciv/cen it, without tearing it. The firll thing wc did, was to fit down or Hand upon it ; it io not above a foot and a. half high. It would bear us up as f'iely as a (lone, without yielding under our weight. Its brc.idih is very dilproportionatc to its height ; and I liave reeii ibmc of more ilian fix feet in s of- ihe lich was )lvc(l, cx- :>i\n. 1 13 rpcntinc. c cut it we broke -* an infi- fiiling of >tlicr, by little di- ;m green. :s out in gtcac A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. S3 \t gfcat abundance ; which is more vifcid than that of fpurgc*. The Ualk abounds with the juice, as do the roots, which extend horizontally; and often at fome dillancc fend forth new flioots, fo that you never find one of tlicfc plants alone. It fccms to like the fides of hills ; and it thrives well in any cxpofurc. It was not before the third year that we endeavoured to know its flower and fccdr., both of ^vhich are very fmall, be- caufc we had been difappoinied in our attempts to bring it over to Europe. At lafl, however, fome feeds were brought, in order to endeavour to get poflcllion of i'o fingular and new a plant, which might even prove ufe- ful in phyfic ; as its rofin had already been fucccfsfully applied to flight wounds by feveral failors. One thing defcrvcs to be obfcrved, namely, that this plant lofes its rofin by the air alone, and the wafhing of the rains. How can v;c make this agree with its quality of difToIv- ing in fpirits alone ? In this flate it was amazingly liglit, and would burn like draw. After this extraordinary plant, we met with one of Beer-piant. approved utility ; it forms a little flirub, and fomc- timc'j creeps under tlie plants, and along ilic coaft. Wc accidcntully titled it, and found it had a fpruce taile wb.ieh pur us in mind of trying to make beer of it ; wc had brouglit a quantity of mclanes and malt w^ith; I I r * £uphoibi;i Linn. Tiihymulus Tourn^>f. F. US : IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) k A {./ ^ >- .*^^ V y 4^ ^ 1.0 I.I ^IM 115 US . ^ LS 12.0 IL25 i 1.4 I 1.6 1^ '/] ^> '/ >^ Photographic Scmces Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. UStO (716) 872-4503 4^ s^ A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. ^1 ii,'. ii I \ Fruits. VL& ; the trials we made, anfwcred beyond expec- tation ; and the fctilers being once inftru<5led in the procefs, never were in want of this liquor afterwards, which was anti-fcorbutic, by the nature of the plant ; it was with good fucccfs employed in baths, which were made for fick pcrfons, who came from tlic fca. Its leaves are finaJl and den rated, and of a bright green. When it is crufhed between the fingers, it is reduced into a kind of meal, which is fomcwhat glu- tinous, and has an aromatic fmelh . .• ,. .» . « A kind of celery or wild parfley, in great quanti- ties ; abundance of forrel, watercrefles, and a kind of maiden-hair *, with undated leaves, furniflied as much as could be required againft the fcurvy, together with the above plant. , , i^. . >^f .. * Two fmall fruits, one of which is unknown, and looks like a mulberry, the other no bigger than a pea, and called lucet, on account of the fimilarity it bears to that which is found in North-America, were the on- ly ones which were to be had in autumn. Thofe which grew upon the bullies v/ere good for nothing, ex- cepting for children, who will cat the worft of fruits, and for wild-fowl. The plant on which the fruit, which we called mulberry, grew, is creeping ; its leaf rclem- bles that of the hornbeam ; its branches are long, and it is propagated like the ftrawberry. i . , ; ,i^i , • * Ceterac Afplcnium, Linn. F. The A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLt). S^ The lucet is likewifc a creeping plant, 1)earing the fruit all along its branches, which are befet with little fliining round leaves, of the colour of myrtle leaves ; their fruits are white, and coloured red on that fide which is turned towards the fun j they have an aro- matic tafle, and fmell like orange-bloflbms, as do the leaves, of which the infniion drank with milk is very plcafant to the taft«%' TKi» plant is hidden among the grafs, and prefers a wet foil: a prodigious quan- tity of it grows in the neighbourhood of lakes. Among feveral other plants, which we found fuper- Fiowen. ftious to examine, there were many flowers, but all without fmell, one excepted, which is white, and has the fmell of the tuberofe. We likewife found a true vio- let, as yellow as a jonquil. It is worth notice that we have rever found any bulbous- rooted plant. Another fingularity is, that in the fouthern part of the ifle we inhabited, beyond a chain of hills which divides it from eaft to weft, it appeared that there were hardly any of the refmous gum-plants, and that in their ftcad we found abundance of another plant of the fame form, but of a different green, wanting the folidity of the other, and not producing any rofin, but only fine yellow flowers in the proper fcafon. This plant, which was cafily opened, confiilcd as the other, of flioots which all Ipring from the fame ftalk, and ter- 4r minate 'he m m* I , H.- •:ii S6 ^ VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. minatc at its furfacc. Coming back over ihc hills, wc found a tall fpccies of maiden hair ; its leaves arc net waved, out in the form of fword blades. From the plant arife two principal flalks, which bear their feeds on the undcrfide, like the other fpecies of maiden hair. There were likewife a great quantity of friable plants growing upon flones, they feemed to partake of the nature of done, and of vegetables j they were thought to be fpecies of lichen, but the afcertaining whether they would be of ufe in dying, was put off to another time. '' Seaplane*. As to thc fubmadne plants, they were more incon- venient than of any ufe. The whole harbour is co- vered with fea weeds, efpecially near the fliore, by which means the boats found it difficult to land ; they are of no other fervice than to break the force of the waters when the fea runs very high. We hoped to make a good ufe of them by employing them for a manure. The tides brought us feveral fpecies of coralines, which were very much varied, and of the fmcft colours ; thefe, together with the fpunges and fliells, have deferred places in the cabinets of thc curious. All the fpunges have the figure of plants, and arc branched in fo many difTerent ways, that wc could hardly believe them to be the work of marine infects. Their texture is fo compact, and their fibres fo delicate, that it is inconceivable how thefe animals can lodge in them. The A VOYAGE ROUND THE WOULD. 57 .1 The coalh of the Malouines have provided the col- Ictflions in Europe with fcveral new Ihclls ; the moft ' curious of which, is that called la pouUtte. There arc three forts of this bivalve ; and among them the llriatcd one had never before been feen, except in the foiiil Rate ; this may prove the aflfcrtion, that the foflil-lhells, found much below the level of the fea, are not lufus na- turcc, and accidentally formed ; but that they have re- ally been inhabited by living animals, at the time when the land was covered by the water. Along with this fhell, which is very common here, there are limpets * ; cdecmed on account of their fine colours ; whelks f. of feveral kinds ; fcallops :j: ; great flriated and fmooth mufcle- (hells §, and the fineft mother of pearl, ; There is only a fingle fpecies of quadruped upon Animals. thefe iflands ; it is a medium between the wolf an*l the fox. The land and waier»fowls are innumerable. The fea-lions and feals are the only amphibia. All the coafts abound with fifli, moft of them little known. The whales keep in the open fea ; fome of them hap- pen now and then to be llranded in the bayn, and their remains are fometimes fecn tliere. Some other bones of an enormous fize, a good way up in the country, whither the force of the waves could never ! • Lepas Linii. !• Rucciiui'm Linn, X Oftrea: Pe(5llnes Linn. § Mya Linn. F. ' I •' '" carry jiii* 1/ J' w^ '} : 1^' 1; i 58 A VOYAGE ROtJND tME WORLIT. carry them, prove that either the fca is diminiflied, or that the foil is encreafed. • '--!«-.«...» .iJ> ..lu.f.;^;/ The wolf-fox, (knp-renard) thus called, on account of its digging a kennel under ground, and having a more bulhy tail than a wolf, lives upon the downs along the fea-fliorc. It attacks the wild fowls ; and makes its roads from one bay to another, with fo much fagacity, that they are always the fliorteft that can be dcvifed ; and, at our firft landing on the ifle, we had al- „ moft no doubt of their being the paths of inhabitants. Ic fecms this animal fafts during a time of the year j for it is then vadly lean. Its fize and make is that of a common (hepherd's dog ; and it barks in the fame man- ner, though not fo loud. In what manner can it have been tranfporied to thefe iflands * ? The birds and fifli have enemies, which endanger their tranquility. Thefe enemies of the birds are the above kind of wolf, which deftMys many of their eggs and young ones ; the eagles, hawks, falcons, and ewls. The fifh are flill worfe uftd ; without mentioning the whales, which fetding, as is well known, upon fry on- • For a navigator, of Mr. Bougainville's experience and abilities, this query ia Tcry extraordinary ; and, ftill more fo, for a man who has fpent Co many years in Canada, near the coads of Labrador ; and who certainly mud have read accounts from Greenland,, where often Jand-animals, on large maiTcs of ice fixed to the ihore, and broke loofe liy the fca, are driven into the ocean ; and again landed on' the Qiorcs of countries, very diftant from their native home. F. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. S') ly, deftroy prodigious numbers ; they are likewife cxpofed to the amphibious creatures, and to birds ; fome of which arc always watching on the rocks, whihl others conftanily fkim along the furfacc of the fea. : It would require a great deal of time, and the eyes of an able naturalift, in order, to defcribe the follow- ing animals well. I fliall here give the mod eflential obfervations, and extend them only to fuch animal^ as were of fome utility. Among the web-footed birds, the fwan is the fird web-footcd in order ; it only differs from the European one by its neck } which is of a velvet black, and makes an admir- able coacraft with the whitenefs of the reft of its body \ its feet are fleih coloured. This kind of fwan is like- wife to be found in Rio de la Plata, and in the ftraits of Magalhaen^. r *iirrf=irr^ Hiifi rr>r> k^r ,kr;^ o^^^ \- Four fpecies of wild-gec^e made part of our gre^teft riches. The firil only feeds on dry land ; and has, im- properly, been called buftard *. Its high legs ferve to elevate it above the tall grafs, and its long neck to qb- ferve any danger. It walks and flies with gre;|t ^afe ; and has not that difagreeablc cackling cry, peculiar to the reft of its kind. The plumage of the male is white, ♦ In the northern pnrts of Amerlra is a kind of wild gcv^fe, which was called by the French, when'in poflcfiton of Canada, Outardc, or Bufbfd ; the Englifli call it theCanada-goofc; it has been roprefcnled by CateJby, 1. 1. t)i. Edwarfl t. 151. and the PlanchcsEnluminccs, t. 346. Perhaps this may be the fame fpecies. F. 1 2 mixed 8 I, ■■f: A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. mixed with black and afli-colour on the wings. The female is yellow ; and its wings are adorned with chang- ing colours ', it generally lays fix eggs, lis flefli is wholcfomc, nourilhing, and palatable i it feldom hap- pened that \vc had any fcarcity of this kiiid of geefe ; for, bcfides thcfc which are bred in the illc, they come in great flocka in autumn, with the eafl wind, probably fioni fomc uninhabited country. The fportfmen eafdy diftinguifli thcfc ncw-comcrs, by the little fear they llicw of men. The other three fpecies are not fo much in rcquefl; ; for they feed on fi(h, and get a trainy tafte. Their figure is not fo elegant as that of the firfl. fpecies ; one of thefe kinds feldom rifes above the water, and is very noify. The colours of their feathers are chiefly white, black, yellow, and afli-colour. All thefe fpe- cies, and likewife the fwan, have a foft down under the feathers •, which is white or grey, and very thick,,, * j,, Two kinds of ducks, and two of teals, frequent the ponds and rivers. The former are but little different from thofc of our climate ; fome of thofe which we killed, were quite black, and others quite white. As to the teals, the one has a blue bill, and is of the fize of the ducks ; the other is much lefs. Some of them had the feathers on the belly of a fleib. colour. Thefe fpecies are in great plenty, and of an ex- cellent tafte. , Here •^ A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 6i Here arc two kinds of Divers, of a fmall fizc. One of them has a grey back, and white belly ; the feathers on the belly arc fo filky, fliining, and clok', that wc imagined thefe were the birds, of whofe plumage the fine muffs are made : this fpccies is here fcarce *. The other, which is more common, is quire brown, buc fomewhat paler on the belly than on the back. The eyes of thefe creatures are like rubies. Their furprifing livelinefs is heightened a'ld fet ofTftill more by the cir- cle of white feathers that furrounds them ; and has caufed the name of Diver with Spectacles to be given to the bird. They breed two young ones at a time, which arc probably too tender to lulTer the coldnefs of the wa- ter, whilft they have nothing but their down ; for then the mother conveys them on her back f. Thefe two fpecies have not w^ebbed feet, as the other water-fowl ; but their toes are feparate, with a ftrong membrane on each fide ; in this manner, each toe refcmbles a leaf, which is roundifh towards the claw -, and the lines, which run from the toe to the circumference of the membrane, together with its green-colour and thinnefs, increafe the refemblance. * -This bird, though the author calls it a Diver, fccms, acconling to the ile. fcription of it, to be rather the Grebe ; which is fo p'cntif'u! on the lake of GcnC' va, whofe beautiful ikinsarc drcft, and miide into nuifls and tippets, lir. Zool. I. p. 396. Svo. td. F. t Tiiis fpecies feems to be the white and dufty grebe. Br. Zool. 2. p. 397. an I vol. 4. f. 17. F. • Two 1^1 A VdlrAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Two fpccies of birds, vrhich were called by our peo- ple fawbills * , I know not for what rcafon, only differ- ed from each other in fize, and fomctimcs becaufe there were rfow and then fomc with brown bellies ; whereas, the general colour of that part, in other birds of the kind, was white. The reft of the feathers are of a very- dark blueifli- black ; in confcquencc of their fliape, and the clofc texture and fdkinefs of their vent feathers, we muft rank them wirh the divers, though I cannot be pofitivc in this refpecH:. They have a pointed bill, and the feet webbed without any ieparation between the toes ; the firft toe, being the longed of the three, and the membrane -which joins them, ending in nothing at the third toe, gives a very remarkable charader. Their feet are flefli-coloured f. Thefc birds deftroy numbers of fifli ; they place themfelves upon the rocks, join to- gether by numerous families, and lay their eggs there« As their flelh is very good to eat, we killed two or three hundred of them at a time ; and the abundance of their eggs offered another refource to fupply our wants. They were fo little ;ifraid of our fportfmen, that it was fufli- cient to go againft them with no better arms than fticks. Their enemy is a bird of prey, with webbed feet; meafuring near feven feet from tip to tip, and having a * Becs-fcics. . ' t As far as we can guefa, frojn this very imperfed defcription, the birds here ntntioncd feem to be of the kind called Guillemot, and vol. 4. t. 20. F. 13r. Zool. vol. 2. p. 410. loj:g A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 6$ long and ftrcig bill, di(^inguilhed by two tubes of the fame fubftance as the bill itfelf, which are hollow throughout. This is the bird which the Spaniards call iluebrantabuejfos*. ('.•<„• , ..' . a. i v v A great quantity of mews, varioufly and prettily mftrked, of gulls and of terns, nimod all of them grey, and living in families, come fkimming along the water, and fall upon the fiih with extraordinary quick- nefs } they were fo far of ufe to us, that they (hewed us the proper fcafon of catching pilchards ; they held them fufpended in the air for a moment only, and then prefently gave back entire, the fifli they had fwallowed juft before. At other feafons they feed upon a little fifli, called gradean^ and fome other fmall fry. They lay their eggs in great quantities round the marlhes, on fome green plants, pretty like the water lily |, and they were very wholefome food. - We found three fpecics of penguins : the firftbf theihf is remarkable on account of its (hape, and the beauty . of its plumage, and does not live in families as the "(;i i iC'K/ If -lily .iT-:»fTTlr'rr' j ifffs V' fiiril • The ^ebrantahuejfot is a bird belonging to the genus called by Dr. Linnaeus, Precellariay or petrel i fome of the failors call it Albatrofs, but then wc mud take care not to confound the common albatrofs, reprcfentcd by Mr. Edwards, tj»b. S8,. which is not this QucbrantahueflTos, hut I believe the bird deftiibed by our au- thor to be not yet well known by our ornithologies ; and the imperfect account of. Bougainville and Dom Ternetty are far from being fatisfailory to natural hifto- rians. Our late great ciitumnavigators and philofophcrs will probably oblige the literary world with a drawing and account of this bird. i\ %, Nenuphars, Nymphrea Linn, F. •'• ♦'"' •'•"^ ^i»' »»^" "' '"-i-" h'>riof,n>n» ' "■ ' ^/econdi I'' : tl Ml m- -^-^ 'A I ■ i m I ii II t: 64 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. fccoml fpccics, which i.s the Himc with that defcribcd-in Lord Anlon'y Voyage; Tlic iicnguin of the firft clafs is fond of fohiude antl retired phiccs. It has a peculiar noble and magnificent app( irance, having an eafy gait, u long neck when fiiigirs or crying, a longer and more elegant bill than the fccond fort, the back of a more blueifli cafl, the belly of a dazzling white, and a kind of palatine or necklace of a bright yellow, which conies down on both fides of the head, as a boundary between the blue and the white, and join'i on the belly :J:. We hoped to be able to bring one of them over to Europe. It was eafily tamed fo far as to follow and know the perfon that had the care of feeding it : flelh, fifli, and bread, were its food ; but we perceived that this food was not fuflicient, and that it abforbed the fatnefs of the bird ; accordingly, when the bird was grown lean to a certain degree, it died. The third fort of penguins live in great flocks or families like the fccond ; they inhabit the high cliffs, where we found the faw-bills (becs-fcies), and they lay their eggs there. Their diftinguifliing charadlers are, the fmallnefs of their fize, their dark yellow colour, a tuft of gold- yellow feathers, which are Ihorter than thofe of the * The plnce referred to here in Lord Ajifon's Voyage is book I. chnp. vii. p 92. erlit. 14th, in 8vo. 1769 ; but from tiuncc, ;is well as from our author's ac- count, it is impofliblc to determine which fpccics of the penguin is meant. F. + The firftof thefc penguins fecms to be that dcfcribed by Mr. Pennant in the rhllof. Tranf. vol. lix. and rcprcfented in an accurate drawing. F. egret, A VOYAGE ROUND TMK WOllI.O. is Vll. ac- thc ll'Ct, egret *, and which ihcy raife when provoked, and laflly, fome other feathers of the fame colour, which ftand in the place of eye-brows ; our people called them hopping penguins, bccaufc they chiefly advance by hopping and fkipping. This fpecies carries greater air of livclineis in its countenance than the two others f. Three fpccies of petrels, (alcyons) which appear but fcldom, did not forebode any tcmpcfls, as thofc do which arc fcen at fea. They arc however the fame birds, as our failors afiirmcd, and the leafl fpccies has all (he chara(5ter3 of it. Though this may be the true al- cyons Xi yet fo much is certain, that they build their nefts on (hore, whence we have had their young ones covered only with down, but perfet^lly like their pa- rents in other refpedts. The fecond fort only diflfers from them in fize, being fomewhat lefs than a pi- geon. Thefe two fpecies are black, with fome white feathers on the belly §. The third fort was at firft • Aigrette, a fpecies of heron. + This laft fpecies of penguin, or auk, fcems to be the fame with the aJca cir- rhata of Dr. Pallas, Spicileg. Zool. Fafc. v. p. 7. tab. i. & v. fig. i — 3. F. X The author certainly has the noted fable of the antients in view, according to which, the alcyons had a fwimming neft, and brooded at fea at a time in winter, •whon the weather was calm. The few calm days during which thefe birds ^^erc employed in brooding, were therefore called alcyonia. F. § The two petrels here mentioned feem to be the little, and the fea-* allow 01 frigat } the firft of which is defcribed, Br. Zo<.l, vol. ii. p. 434, and reprefcnted, vol. iv. t 82. The fecond, or fwallow- petrel, or frigat, is to be met with in Rochefort's Voyage, t. 135. Dr. Linnaeus calls the firft procellaria pelagica, the latter the fregatta, and, if I am not miftaken, the third kind here mentioned, is, the fulmar, Br. Zool, vol. ii. p. 431. and vol. iv. t. 82. Dr, Linnoeus's Procellaria glacialis. F. , K called 66 fl 1 (l Mk I m - 1 1 '^i^ 1 1 1 ■' 1 •".'. n. ti' W: ■ », i : Birds with cloven feet. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. called white-pigeon, on account of its feathers being all of that colour, and its bill being red : there is reaiox: to fuppofe it is a true white alcyon, on account of its conformity with the other fpecics. Three forts of eagles, of which the ftrongeft have a dirty white, and the others a black plumage, with yellow and white feet, attack the fnipes and little birds ; neither their fize nor the drength of their claws allowing th^m to fall upon others. A number of fparrow hawks and falcons, together with fome owls, are the other enemies of the fowl. Their plumage is rich, and much varied in colour, uor j(U ot ;1< o* n./kt^-- The fnipes are the fame as the European ones^; they do not fly irregularly when they rife, and are eafy to be Ihot. In the breeding feafon they foar to a prOp digious height ; and after iinging and difcovering their neft, which they form without precaution in the midft of the fields, on fpots where hardly any plants grow> they fall down upon it from the height they had rifen to before ; at this feafon they are poor ; the beft time for eating them is in autumn. "•"""^ "• -^ -^^— -= -- In fummer we faw many curlews, which were not at all different from ours. ' ^^ ^ '^^^^^ ^^'^ ^^'^' ^^^^ Throughout the whole year we faw a bird pretty like a curlew on the fea-fide ; it was called a fea~pie *, • The leii-pir is fometimes called oyfter- catcher, becaufe this bird forces the fticlls opeti with its bill, which are left bare on the fliore, at the recefllon of the luic. I3r. Zool, vol. iv. p. 376, Dr. Linn^tus's Usemalopus Oftralegus. F. on y^ f.» not [•etty lie *, es the lof the A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. • en account of its black and white plumage ; its other charaderiftics are, a bill of the colour of red coral, and white feet, it hardly ever leaves the rocks, which are dry at low water, and lives upon little fhrimp?. It makes a whittling noife, eafy to be imitated, which proved ufeful to our fporifmen, and pernicious to the bird. -' ''^' -'^ ' '■ * ' *^ '"'' ^""'^^ Egrets are pretty common here ; at firft we took them for common herons, not knov/ing the value of their plumes. Thefe birds begin to feed towards night; they have a harfli barking noife, which we often took for the noife of the wolf we have mentioned before '""■ ''"■•*-' " ' ■-''• ' Ai<,.''j •■^d, 'nr, ^vnni ^dT' Two forts of ftares or thrulhes came to us etrery autumn $ a third fpecies remained here conftantly, it was called the red bird * ; its belly is quite covered with feathers of a beautiful fiery red, efpecially during win- ter ', they might be coUeded, and would make very rich tippets. One of the two remaining fpecies is yellow, with black fpots on the belly, the other has the colour of our common thrufhes. I fliall not give any particulai account of an infinite number of little birds, that are pretty like thofe feea in the maritime provinces of France. ,., ^^ .,^ ..^,i. ,.,a^' ^uo-iiVX • This fccms to be the American red-breaft, or turdus migratorlus, Linn, and Kalm's Voyage, vol. ii< p. 90, vrhere likewife a figure of it is given. F. ii i " 67 n : 11 I I 1 ' K 2 \ ti. "^^The on '''!1 a Amphibious creatures. Fifti. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. The fea-lions and feals are already known; ihefe animals occupy the f^a-fliore, and lodge, as I have before mentioned, among the tall plants, called gla- dioli *. They go up a league into the country in in- numerable herds, in order to enjoy the frefli herbs, and to bafk in the fun. It feems the fea-lion dcfcribed in Lord Anfon's Voyage ought, on account of its fnout, to be looked upon as a kind of marine elephant, ef- pecially as he has no mane j is of an amazing fize, being feme times twenty- two feet long, and ai there is another fpecies much inferior in fize, . without any fnout, and having a mane of longer hairs than thofe on the reft of the body, which therefore fliould be con- fidered as the true fea-lion f. The feal {hup marin) has neither mane nor fnout ; thus all the three fpecies are eafily diftinguiflied. Under, the hair of all thefe creatures, there is no fuch down as is found in thofe caught in North America and Rio de la Plata. Their greafe or train oil, and their fkinS| might form a branch of commerce. ' ' " ' '"= " " We have not found a great variety of fpecies of fifli. That fort which we caught moft frequently, we called K Hi •> 'i. h' * Glayeuls. t The animal here mentioned as the true fea-lion exceeds the fea-lion defcribed in Lord Anfon's Voyage ; for this is twenty-five feet long, and that in the ifle of Juan Femandes only twenty; See Voyage aux Ifles Malouines, par Dom Pernetty. F. . • ■ • 6 inullety A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. mullet *, to which it bear3 foHie refemblance. Some of them were three feet long, and our people dried them. The fiQi called gradeau is very common, and fometimes found above a foot long. The fardine only comes in the beginning of winter. The mullets being purfued by the feals, dig holes in the flimy ground, on the banks of the rivuleis, where they take flielter, and we took them without difficulty, by taking off the layer of mud that covered their retreats. Befides ihefe fpecies, a number of other very fmall ones were taken with a hook and line, and among them was one which was called a tranfparent pike -1 . Its head is fhaped like that of our pike, the body without fcales, and perfe<5lly diaphanous. There are likewife fome congers on the rocks, and the white porpefTe, called la taupe, or the mole, appears in the bays during the fine feafop. If we had had time, and men enough to fpare, for the fifliery at fea, we fliould have found many other fifli, and certainly fome foals, of which a few have been found, thrown upon the fands. Only a fingle fort of frefli water fifli, without fcales, has been taken ; it is of a green colour, and of the fize of a common trout %, It is true, we have made but few refearches in this par- ^* ^^'^> "" Laftly, by way of forming a coroparifon with fome cultivated ifle in Europe, I fliall quote what Puffendorf fays of Ireland, which is iituated nearly in the fame latitude in the northern hemifphere, as the Malouines in the fouthern one, viz. " that this ifland is pleafant « on account of the healthinefs and ferenity of the air, ** and becaufe heat and cold are never exccflive there. « The land being well divided by lakes and rivers, oflfers " great plains, covered with excellent paflure, has no « venemous creatures, its lakes and rivers abound with f^fifli, &c." See the Univerfal Hiftory. mi> jgqnuU CHAP. -ft . .' V .1 <■ A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 71 sd^i # >«f >> t iismk CHAP. V. .C, :>•-•/ ii lii^H . Navigatitm Wfn the Mahuines to Rio- Janeiro i junSiion of the Boudeuft vnth the Etoile. — Hojiilities of the Portuguefe a- gainji the Spaniarfls, Revenues of the king of Portugal from Rio-yaneiro, jai vjiw^, mxi. ^.^J^ a . .> * '■■ ,/»> i-nii^ ■1 - ioi ^^i^i • ti^. uvi q,i.. iijAj\<{ 1 WAITED, in vain, for the Etoile, at the Malouines ; 1767. ''' the months of March and April had pafled, and that Depanare from (he Ma- ftore-fliip did not arrive. I could not attempt to tra- louines for Rio-Janeiro. verfe the Pacific Ocean with my frigate alone ; as (he had no more room than what would hold fix months provifion for the crew. I ftill waited for the flore- Ihip, during May. Then feeing that I had only two months provifions, I left the Malouines the fecond of June, in order to go to Rio-Janeiro ; which ^ had point- ed out as a rendezvous to M. de la Giraudais, comman- der of the Etoile, in c^fe fome circumftances fliould pre- vent his coming to join me at the Malouines. f^^rflrirrT^^ During this navigation, we had very fair weather. The 20th of June, in the afternoon, we faw the high head-lands of the Brafils ; and, on the 21ft, we difco- vered the entrance of Rio-JaneiiO. Along the coaft we faw feveral fifliing-boats. I ordered Portuguefe colours to be hoifted, and fired a cannon : upon this fignal one of the i 7» • A V oYa iStVi 6 Wni5^ t rff W ft i 6. the boats came on board, and I took a pilot to bring m ■rv IS Difcuflion concerning the falute. ■ ■ l. Junftion with the Etoile. US into the road. He made us run along the coaft, ■within half a league of the ifles which lie along it. We found many (hoals every where. The coaft is high, hilly, and woody ; it is divided into little detached anr. perpendicular hillocks, which vary their profpeft. At half an hour paftfive, in the afternoon, we were got with- in the fort of Santa-Cruz j from whence we were hailed j and at the fame time a Portugueze officer came on board, to afk the reafon of our entering into port. I fent the chevalier Bournand with him, to inform the count d' Acunha, viceroy of the Brafils, of it, and to treat about the falute. At half an hour paft feven, we anchored in the road, in eight fathoms water, and black muddy bottom. The chevalier de Bournand returned foon after ; and told me, that, concerning the falute, the count d' Acun- ha had anfwered him, that if a perfon, meeting an- other in a ftreet, took off his hat to him, he did not before inform himfelf whether oi' no this civility would be returned j that if we faluted the place, he would confider what he fliould do. As this anfWer was not a fufficient one, I did not falute. I heard at the fame time, by means of a canoe, which M. de la Giraudais fent to me, that he was in this port ; that his departure from Rochefort, which fliould have been in December, [ivv had m>^ A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 73 had been retarded till the beginning of February ; that after three months failing, the water which his fhip made, and the bad condition of her rigging, had forced him to put in at Montevideo, where he had received information concerning my voyage, by means of the Spaniih friga es returning from the Malouines ; and he had immediately fet fail for Rio- Janeiro, where he had been at anchor for fix days. J This junction enabled me to continue my expedition ; though the Eioile, bringing me upwards of fifteen months fait provifions and liquor, had hardly for fif- ty days bread and legumes to give me. The want of thefe indifpenfable provifions, obliging me to return and get fome in Rio de la Plata ; as we found at Rio- Janeiro, neither bifcuit, nor wheat, nor flour. There were, at this time, two veflels in this port which pj^cuitie, mtereftedus ; the one a French, and the other a Spaniih one. pdlmguef?" The former, called I'Etoile du Matin, or the Morning Star, nfft fllip.^'^*' was the king's fliip bound for India ; which, on ac- count of its fmallnefs, could not undertake to double the Cape of Good Hope during winter ; and, therefore, came hither to wait the return of the fair feafon. The Spaniih veflel was a man of war, of feventy-four guns, named the Diligent, commanded by Don Francefco de Medina. Having failed from the river of Plata, with a cargo of fkins and piaftres j a leak which his fhip had ' I* fprung, 74 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. n> 1 1 Afli (lance which we gave her. The viceroy visits us on hoard the frigate. fprung, much below her water-line, had obliged him to bring her hither, in order to refit her for the voyage to Europe. He had been here eight months ; and the refufal of necelTary afTiftance, and the difficulties which the viceroy laid in his way, had prevented his finiftiing the repair : accordingly, Don Francifco fent the fame evening that I arrived, to beg for my carpenters and caulkers ; and the next morning I fent them to him from both the veffels. The 2 2d we went iii a body to pay a vifit to the vice- roy; he came and returned it on the 2j:th; and, when he left us, 1 faluted him with nineteen guns, which were returned from the fliore. On this vifit, he offer- ed us all the afUftance in his power ; and even granted me the leave I afked, of buying a floop, which would have been very ufeful, during the courfe of my expedi- tion ; and, he added, that if there had been one be* longing to the king of Portugal, he would have offer- ed it me. He likewife afifured me, that he would make the mod exiO: enquiries, in order to difcover thofe, who, under the very windows of his palace, had mur- dered the chaplain of the Eioile, a few days before our arrival ; and that he would proceed with them accord- ing to the utmoft feverity of the law. He promifed juftice i but the law of nations was very ineflfedually executed ai; this placcj^ .y^, 1,,,^^^ ^^,>P ^-k:? ' '• * ! h{ ^ n^^:ri- How« A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 7^ r|., .1— ■ "■11 However, the viceroy's civilities towards us continu- ed for feveral days : he even told us his intention of giving us a petit foupert or collation, by the water-fide, in bowers of jafmine and orange-trees ; and he ordered a box to be prepared for us at the opera. We faw, in a tolerable handfome hall, the bed works of Metaftafio re- prefented by a band of mulattoes ; and heard the di- vine compofition of the great Italian mafters, executed by an orcheftra, which was under the dire(5tion of a humpbacked prieft, in his canonicals. •V The favour which we enjoyed, occafioned great mat- ter of aftonifhment to the Spaniards, and even to the people of the country ; who told us, that their gover- nor's proceedings would not be the fame for a long time. Indeed, whether the afliftance we gave the Spa- niards, and our own connetflions with them difpleafed him, or whether he could no longer feign a CondudV, fo diametrically oppofite to his natural temper, he foon became, in regard to us, what he had been to every ^^ The 2 8th of June, we heard that the Portuguefe had Hoftiiiti«of furprifed and attacked the Spaniards at Rio-Grande ; gueze againft the Span iardf* that they had driven them from a ftation which they occupied oii the left fhore of that river ; and that a Spa- nifh (hip, touching at the ifle of St. Catherine, had beeti detained there. They fitted out here, with great expe- L 2 dition, I . 16 1767. July. Bad proceed- ings of the viceroy to- wards us. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. dition, the San Scbaftiano, of fixty-four guns, built here \ and a frigate, mounting forty guns, called Nofla Senhora da Gracia. This lad was deftined, it was faid, to efcort a convoy of troops and ammunition to Rio- Grande, and to the colony of Santo Sacramento. Thefe hoftilities and preparations gave us rcafon to apprehend that the viceroy intended to flop the Diligent ; which was careening upon the ifle das Cobras, and we accele- rated her refitment as much as poffiblCi She really was ready on the laft day of June, and began to take in the ikins, which were part of her lading ; but on the fixth of July, when (he wanted to take back lier cannon, which, during the repair, had been depofited: on the iQe das Cobras, the viceroy forbade their being de* livered; and declared, that he arrefted the (hip, tilt he had received the orders of his court, on the fubje<51: of* the hoftilities committed at Rio-Grande. In vain did Don Medina take all the neceflary fteps on this occafion ; count d'Acunha would not fo much as receive the letter, which the Spanifli commander fent him by an ofiicer, from on board his fliip. '^' ^''''' * / ilpo^^Ur/ t, . ..^t We partook of the difgrace of our allies. Having, upon the repeated k-^ve of the viceroy, concluded the bargain for buying a fnow, his excellency forbade the feller to deliver it to me. He likewife gave orders, that we ihould not be allowed the neceflary timber out of the A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 77 the royal dock-yards, for which we had already agreed : he then refufed me the permiinon of lodgmg with my officers, (during the time that the frigate underwent fome efTcntial repairs) in a houfe near the town, offered me by its proprietor: and which commodore Byron had oc^"'pied in 1765, when he touched at this port. On this account, and like wife upon his refufing me the fnow and the timber, I wanted to make fome remon- Arances to him. He did not give me time to do it -, and, at the firft words I uttered, he rofe in a furious pailion, and ordered me to go out ; and being certainly piqued, that, in fpite of his anger, I remained fitting with two officers, who accompanied me, he called his guards ; but they, wifer than himfelf, did not come, and we retired; fo that nobody feemed to have been diflurbed. We were hardly gone, when the guards of his palace were doubled, and orders given to arrefl all the French that fhould be found in the flreets after fun- fetting. He likewife fcnt word to the captain of the Erench fliip of four guns, to go and anchor under the fort of Villagahon ; and the next morning. I got her- towed there by my boats. ...j^. ...j. j-, ^,,r>yu. jiium ? i.-:»ijut»ujvuv r ^^ Rio- Janeiro is the emporium and principal flaple of Account of the rich produce of the Brafils. The mines, which are Rio-janeiro. called general^ arc the neareft to the city ; being about feventy-five leagues diftant. They annually bring in to the king, for his fifth part, at leafl one hundred and twelve arobas of gold i in 1 7 6 2 they brought in a hun- dred and nineteen. Under the government of the ge- neral mines, are comprehended thofe of Rio das Mortes, of Sahara, and of Sero-frio. The lafi; place, befides gold, produces all the diamonds that come from the Brafils. They are in the bed of a river ; which is led afide, in J r *--/ I •lAC • Debouch^ ^n-idl '^v£:g .Bu SiOlK^^ order ; I >■} i ! f If, " i l^r (.J 86 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Mines of diamonds. order afterwards to feparate the diamonds, topazes> chryfolites, and other ftones of inferior goodnefs, frona the pebbles, among which they ly*. All theie ftones, diamonds excepted, are not contra- band : they belong to the polTefTors of the mines ; but Regulations ^^^Y ^^^ obHgcd to givc a very exad account of the dia- ingThe"" " monds they find ; and to put them into the hands of a """"* furveyor *, whom the king appoints for this purpofe. The furveyor immediately depolits them in a little calket, covered with plates of iron, and locked up by three locks. He has one of the keys, the viceroy the other, and the Provador de Hazienda Reale the third. This cafket is inclofed in another, on which are the feals of the three perfons above mentioned, and which contains the three keys to the firft. The viceroy is not allowed to vifit its contents j he only places the whole in a third coflfer, which he fends to Lifbon, after putting his feal on it. It is opened in the king's prefencej he choofes the diamonds which he likes out of it ; and pays their price to the poffelTors of the mines, according to a tariflf fettled in their charter. ^ ,. . ? The pofleflbrs of the mines pay the value of a Spanifli piaftre or dollar per day to his Moft Faithful Majefty, for every flave fent out to feek diamonds j the number of thefe Haves amounts to eight hundred. Of n;;'' Hriit Intendant. 1 11. all A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 8i all the contraband trades, that of diamonds is moft fe- verely puniflied. If the fmuggler is poor, he lofes his life ; if his riches are fufficicnt to fatisfy what the law exafts, belides the confifcation of the diamonds, he is condemned to pay double their value, to be imprifoncd for one year, and then exiled for life to the coaH of Africa. Notwithflanding this feverity, the fmuggling trade with diamonds, even of the moft b-^autiful kind, is very extenfive ; fo /»reat is the hope and facility of hiding them, on account of the Uftle room they take UP. <"^h'^f> ■'*'*' • B'^^-M *■..'?< i»>i- ,.>.J[rjs/. .j^sjt -jt^^. All the gold which is got out of the mines cannot Gold-mines. be fent to Rio Janeiro, without being previoufly brought into the houfes, eftabliflied in each diftridt, where the part belonging to the crown is taken. "What belongs to private perfons is returned to them in. wedges, with their weight, their number, and the king's arms ftamped upon them. All this gold is aflayed by a perfon appointed for that purpofe, and on each wedge or ingot, the alloy of the gold is marked, that it may afterwards be eafy to bring them all to the fame alloy for the coinage. > , Thefe ingots belonging to private perfons are re- giftered in the office of Praybuna, thirty leagues from Rio Janeiro. At this place is a captain, a lieutenant, and fifty men ; there the tax of one fif M part is paid, and ii:^'' Zz A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. and further, a poll-tax of a reaJ and a half per head» of men, cattle, and beafls of burden. One half of the produce of this tax go^s to the king, and the other i$ divided among the detachment, according to the rank. As it is impoffib'e to come back from the mines without paffing by this flation, the foldiers al- ways (lop the paflengers, and fearch them with the ut- moft rigour. ' '"^ '""' '''''"■ •" '^'• The private people are then obliged to bring all the ingots of gold which fall to their ihare, to the mint at Rio Janeiro, where they get the value of it in cafli; this commonly confilts of demi-doubloons, worth eight Spanifli dollars. Upon each demi-doubloon, the king gets a piaflre or dollar for the alloy, and for the coin- age. The mint at Rio Janeiro is one of the fineil buildings exifting. It is furnilhed with all the con- veniences neceflary towards working with the greateft expedition* As the gold comes from the mines at the fame time that the fleets come from Portugal, the coin- age mull be accelerated, and indeed they coin there with amazing quicknefs. -' ''.n'p .ii . ii-HfOjurj ix.- -^ ^i • The arrival of thefe fleets, and efpecially of that from Lifbon, renders the commerce of Rio Janeiro very flou- riQiing. The fleet from Porto is laden only with wines, brandy, vinegar, victuals, and fome coarfe cloths, ma- nufa^urcd in and about that town. As foon as the ^ fleets ■■11 ' A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 83 ead» f of >ther the the ; al- le ut- i- •'■ 11 the int at cafli: eight : king coin- fineft con- eatelt t the coin- with from flou-^ ^nes, ma- ts the fleets fleets arrive, all the goods they bring are conveyed to the cuftom-houfe, where they pay a duty of ten per cent to the king. It muft be observed that the com- munication between the colony of Santo Sacramento and Buenos Ayres being entirely cut off at prefent, that duty muft be confiderably leiTened ; for the greater part of the moft precious merchandizes which arrived from Europe were fent from Rio Janeiro to that colony, from whence they were fmuggled through Buenos Ayres to Peru and Chili ; and this contraband trade was worth a million and a half of piaftres or dollars annually to the Portuguefe. In ihort, the mines of the Brafils produce no filver, and all that which the Portuguefe got, came from this fmuggling trade. The negro trade was another immenfe objeft. The lofs which the almoft entire fuppreffion of this branch of contra- band trade occafions, cannot be calculated. This branch alone employed at leaft thirty coafting vefTels between the Brafils and Rio de la Plata. ;. ,,,: ..: . . Befides the old duty of ten per cent which is paid at Revenues of the royal cuftom-houfe, there is another duty of two Portug"a1 ° and a half per cent, laid on the goods as a free gift, Janeiro. on account of the unfortunate event which happened at Lifbon in 175*5. This duty muft be paid down at the cuftom-houfe immediately, whereas for the tr^-y f« M 2 ^^gi]). I.'ii;. jLii iji tenth, 1 t 84 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. tenth, you may have a refpite of fix months, on giving ^' good fecurity. '■^'"- ''": -'-''*-•» v'v^>a- ' * ^ The mines of S. Paolo and Parnagua pay the king four arrobas as his fifth, in common years. The moft diftant mines, which are thofe of Pracaton and Quiaba, depend upon the government * of MatagrofTo. The fifth of thefe mines is not received at Rio Janeiro, but that of the mines of Goyas is. This government has likewife mines of diamonds, but it is forbidden to fearch in them. - , . , ^ , _ ^ All the expences of the king of Portugal at Rio Ja-*- neiro, for the payment of the troops and civil officers, the carrying on of the mines, keeping the public buildings in repair, and refitting of fliips, amount to about fix hundred thoufand piaftres. I do nor fpeak of the expence he may be at in conftru(5ling Ihips of the line and frigates, which he has lately begun to . ■' 4q here. " ^■i^UBKi TO i'\Lll0b m k;QT i-; r>.,f i^ J t-n;. •rifji: ,?=--• •.i ( .;t v; 1. , • I i A fum- ! • 'i' A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. M- A fummary account, and the amount of the feparate ^, articles of the king's revenue, taken at a medium in Spanifli doUirs. . .,',1, -,>,.,,.. , Dollars. One hundred and fifty arrobas of gold, of which in common years all the fifths^ 'fyqj:? amount to - - - - - - - - 1,125,000 The duty on diamonds - - * • * 240,000 _, , , . j»ii/tiii>.v lb. ii'^firr • The duty on the comage - - - - 400,000 Ten per cent, of the cufto? -houfe - ~ 350,000 Two and a half per cent, free gift - - 87,000 Poll tax, fale of employs, offices, and other Z^'"^''"*'* ti../> 225,000 al I' Hi, \i2 jui. C H A P. VT. /l-^l-fr VtvAH'^. -ui*" J • W T • 1 Departure from Rio Janeiro : fecond voyage to Montevideo * .11 arc damage which the EtoiJe receives there, '• ' ti. . 'T^HE 14th of July we weighed from Rio Janeiro, •7 but for want of wind we were obliged to come to an anchor again in the road. We failed on the i j'lh, and two days after, the frigate being a much better failer than the Etoile, I was obliged to unrig my top- gallant mafts, as our lower mafts required a careful management. The winds were variable,, but brifk, and the fea very high. In the night between the ipih and 20th, we loft our main-top^fail, which was carried away on its clue-lines. The 25 th there was an eclipfe of the fun, vifible to us. I had on board my fhip M. Verron, a young aftronomcr, who came from France in the Etoile, with a view to try, during the voyage, fome methods towards finding the longitude at fea.^* '' ■^''^^'' According to our eftimation of the (hip's place, the moment of immerfion, as calculated by the aftronomer, was to be on the 25 th, at four hours nineteen minutes in the evening. At four hours and fix minutes, a cloud prevented our feeing the fun, and when we got fight of A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. »7 of him again, at four hours thirty-one minutes, about an inch and a half was already eclipfed. Clouds fuc- ceflivcly p afled over the fun'i difk, and let us fee him only at very fliort intervals, fo that we were not able to obferve any of the phafes of the eclipfe, and con- fequently could not conclude our longitude from it. The fun fet to us before the moment of apparent con- juni^ion, and we reckoned that that of immerfion had been at four hours twenty-three minutes. '"" On the 2^th we came into foundings; the 28th in Entrance into Rio de the morning we difcovered the Caflilles. This part of la flaw- the coaft is pretty high, and is to be feen at ten or twelve leagues diftance.. We difcovered the entrance to a bay, which probably is the harbour where the Spa- niards^ have a fort, and where I have been told there is very bad anchorage. The 29th we entered Rio de la Plata, and faw the Maldonados. We advanced but little this day and the following. Almoft the whole night between the 30th and 3 1 ft we were becalmed, and founded conftantly. The current fet to the north-weft- ward, which was pretty near the fituation of the ifle of Lobos.. At half an hour paft one after midnight, having founded thirty-:hree fathoms, I thought I was very near the ifle, and gave the fignal for cafting anchor. At half paft three we weighed, and faw the ifle of ■ Lobos in N. E. about a league and a half diftant, The 1 wind .* I? "i ll I VI II ■ t r i 8,8 Second lime of touching at Monte- video. News which we hear at this place. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. wind was S. and S. E. weak at firft, but blew more frefh towards fun-rifing, and we anchored in the bay of . Montevideo the 3 1 ft in the afternoon. We had loft much time on account of the Eioile; becaufe, befides the ad- vantage of our being better failers, that ftore-fliip, which at leaving Rio Janeiro made four inches of water every hour, after a few days fall made feven inches in the fame fpace of time, which did not allow her to crowd her fails. We were hardly moored, when an officer came on board, being fcnt by the governor of Montevideo, to compliment us on our arrival, and informed us that orders had been received from Spain to arreft all the Jefuits, and to feize their effeds : that the fliip which brought thefe difpatches had carried away forty fathers of that community, deftined for the miffions ; that the order had already been executed in the principal houfes without any difficulty or refiftance ; and that, on the contrary, thefe fatners bore their difgrace with refig- nation and moderation. I fhall foon enter into a more circumftaniial account of this great tranfadion, of which I have been able to obtain full information, by my long ftay at Buenos Ayres, and the confidence with which the governor-general Don Francifco Bukarely * ho- noured me. , : . . ■■ni' i*'jl ^ t.i * BuccarclH As A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 89 As . * Aa we were to flay in Rio de la Plata till after the equinox, we took lodgings at Montevideo, where we fettled our workmen, and made an hofpital. This hav- ing been our firft care, I went to Buenos Ayres, on the I ith of Auguft, to accelerate our being furniOied with the neceffary provifions, by the provider-general of the king of Spain ; at the fame price as he had agreed to de- liver them to his Catholic Majefty. I likewife wanted to have a conference with M. de Buccarelli, on the fub- jed of what had happened at Rio- Janeiro ; though I had already, by exprefs, fent him the difpatches from Don Francifco de Madina. I found he had prudently refolv- cd to content himfelf with fending an acoount of the hoftilities of the viceroy of the Brafils to Europe, and not to make any reprifals. It would have been eafy to him, to have taken the colony of Santo Sacra- mento in a few days ; efpecially as that place was in want of every neceflary, and had not yet obtained, in November, the convoy of articles and ammuni. tion that were preparing to be fent thither, when we left Rio-Janeiro. ' ', ' • • * The governor-general made every thin^ as convenient as poflible, towards quickly making up our wants. At the end of Auguft, two fchooners, laden with bifcuit and flour for us, failed for Montevideo ; whither I likewife went to celebrate the day of St. Louis. I left the cheva- cC. -N lier 1767, Augull, li' i if! ' t nil I i' \m ■'4 il! 9^ Damage which the Etoilc re- ceives. 1767. September, A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. lier du Bouchagc, an under-lieiitenant, at Buenos Ayrcs, in order to get the remainder of our provifions on board ; and to take care of our affairs there till our de- parture I which, I hoped, would be towards the end of September. I could not forefee that an accident would detain u- fix weeks longer. In a hurricane, blowing hard at S. W. the San Fernando, a regifter-fliip, which was at anchor near the Etoile, dragged her anchors, ran foul of the Etoile at night; and, at the firft fliock, broke her bowfprit level with the deck. Afterwards the knee and rails of her head were carried away ; and it was lucky that they feparated, notwithftanding the bad wea<- ther, and the obfcurity of the night, without being more damaged, -^v ^ *..,>* ,,,...: — ^ i— ^,-j , This accident greatly enlarged the leaks in the Etoik, which flie had had from the beginning of her voyage. It now became abfolutely necelfary to unload this veflcl, if not to heave lier down *, in order to difcover and flop this leak, which feemed to lie very low, and very forr ward. This operation could not be performed at MonT tevideo ; where, befides, there was not timber fufficient to repair the mafts ; I therefore wrote to the chevalier du Bouchage, to reprefent our fituation to the, marquis de Buccarelli ; and to obtain^ that by his leave the Etoile might be allowed to come up the river, and to go into * Virer en quillei ly A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. J* gaa. the Encenada de Baragan ; I likewife gave him orders to fend timber and the other materials, which weihould want thither. The governor-general confcnted to our demands ; and, the 7 th of September, not being able to find any pilot, I went on board the Etoile, with the car- penters and caulkers of the Boudcufe, in order to fail {Jom Mome- the next morning, and undertake in perfon a naviga- '"*'° '° **'*' tion, which we were told was very hazardous. Two regifter-fliips ; the San-Fernando and the Carmen, pro- vided with a pilot, were ready the fame day, to fail for Montevideo to Encenada ; and I intended to follow them J but the San-Fernando, which had got the pilot, named Philip, on board, weighed in the night, between the feventh and eighth, purely with a view of hiding his tracK from us ; and left her companion in the fame diftrefs. However, we failed on the eighth in the morning, preceded by our canoes ; the Carman remain- ing to wait for a fchooner to dired ht r route. In the evening we reached the 6aa-Fernando, pafTed by her ; and, on the tenth in the afternoon, we came to an an- chor in the road of the Encenada : Philip, who was a bad pilot, and a wicked fellow, always fleering in our water. In this road I found the Venus frigate of twenty-fix guns, and fome merchant -(hips ; which were bound, together with her, to fail diredly for Europe. 1 like- wife found there la Efmeralda, and la Liebrej who were i, :: N a - pre- •I jjfn?!' 9i; i JS The Etoile goes to be reparicd there. A VOYAGE ROUND THE AVORLD. preparing to return to the Malouincs, \fith provifions and ammunitions of all forts ; from wlicnce ihcy were to fail for the South Seas, in order to take in the Jcfuits of Chili and Peru. There was hkewife the xebcck * el ' Andaluz ; which arrived from Ferrol, at the end of July, in company with another xebcck, named el Aven- rturero; but the latter was loft on the point of what is called the Englilh-Sand j and the crew had time to fave their lives. The Andaluz was preparing to carry pre- fents and miflionaries to the inhabitants of Tierra del Fuego } the king of Spain being defirous of teftifying his gratitude to thofe people, for the fervices they rendered the Spaniards of the Ihip la Concepcion, which was loft on their coafts in 1765*. . >^ . - — ^ I went on fhore at Baragan, whither the cb^valier du Bouchage had already fent part of the timber we wanted. He found it very difficult and expenfive to colleft \t at Buenos Ayres, in the king's arfenal, and in fome private timber-yards j the ftores of both con- fifting of the timbers of fuch (hips as were wrecked in the river. At Baragan we found no fupplies ; but, on the contrary, difficulties of many kinds.; and every thing confpired to make all operations go on very ilow- ly. The Encenada de Baragan is, indeed, merely a bad kind of bay, formed by the mouth of a little river, * ■ •» Chambekin, which A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. '93 which is about a quarter of a league broad ) bi he depth of water is only in the middle, in a narrow « .1 nel } which is conllanily filhng more and more } and, in which, only ihips drawing no more than twelve feet water can enter. In all the other parts of the river, there is not fix inches of water during the ebb ; but as the tides are irregular in Rio de la Plaia ; and the water fometimes high or lovr, for eight days together, accord- ing to the winds that blow, the landing of boats was connecH:ed with great difficulties. There are no ma- gazines on (hore i the houfes, or rather huts, are but few, made of rufhes, covered over with leather, and built without any regularity, on a barren foil j and their in- habiratits are hardly able to get their fubfiftance ; all which- caufes flill n^ore difficulties. Thefliips, which draw too much water to be able to enter this creek, muft anchor at the point of Lara, a league and a half weft. There they. are expofed to all the wind • but the ground being, very good for anchoring, they nay winter there, though labouring under many inconveniences. . '' • I left M, de la Giraudais, at the point of Lara, to take care of what related to his fliip j and I went to Buenos Ayres, from whence I fent him a large fchooner, by wh'ch he might heave down as foon as he came into the Encenada. For that puipofe, it was neceflary to unload part of the goods flie had on board j and M. de Bucca- ..; 6 relli 1767. Oilobtr. 94 ^iii ■i ^ :.ii lii'5 i I ■ * A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. relli gave us leave to depofit ihem on board the Efme- ralda and the Liebre, The 8th of Odl:ober the Etoile was able to go into port j and it appeared, that her re- pair would not take fo much time as was at firft ex- pe(5ted. Indeed, they had hardly begun to unload her, when her leak diminiflied confiderably ; and Ihe did not leak at all when Ihe drew only eight feet of water forward. After taking up fome planks of her flieath- ing, they faw that the feam of her entrance was en- tirely without oakum for the length of four feet and a half, from the depth of eight feet of her draught up- wards. They difcovered likewife two auger holes, into which they had not put the bolts. All thefe faults and damages being quickly repaired, new railing put on the head, a new bowfprit made and rigged, and the fhip being new caulked all over, flie returned to the point of Lara on the 2 1 ft, where fhe took in her lading again, from on board the Spanifli frigates. In that road flie likewife flowed the wood, flour, bifcuit, and different provifions I fent her. jfj. ..^ ,., ^jaiu i»tii.>i .a*^ Departure of From thcucc, the Veuus and four other vefTels laden forTumpef ' with leather, failed for Cadiz, at the end of September, others. having on board two hundred and fifty Jefuits, and the French families from the Malouines, feven excepted, who having no room in thefe fhips, were obliged to wait for another opportunity. The marquifs of Buc- carelli '.r ^\ tt A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. %t ^ ■ ' f^ A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. *♦ :U' 'IW* ^fh A P. VII. "i •>|*. fit ': fT«». « u ■ii \.? i 1 1 1 1 I ' h I I Accounts of the mijjions in Paraguayt and the expulfion of tbs ,' •». • ^ J efuits from that province. '«« ■.;t» . » ! ■r:.r.a.v ::iV4Juir Dace of the ellablifhment of the mif- fions. "IT Whilst we carried on our preparations for leav- ing Rio de la Plata, the marquifs of Buccarelli made fome on his part to go on the Uraguai. The Jefuits had already been arretted in all the other pro- vinces of his department ; and this governor-general intended to execute the orders of his catholic majefly, in perfon, in the miffions. It depended upon the firft fteps that were taken, either to make the people confent to the alterations that were going to be made, or to plunge them again into their former ftate of barbarifm. But before I give an account of what I have feen of the cataftrophe of this Angular government, I muft fpeak foraething of its origin, progrefs, and form. X fliall fpeak of it Ji?iff ird ^ftudio^ quorum caufas proculhabeo. In 1580 the Jefuits were firft admitted into thefe fertile regions, where they have afterwards, in the reign of Philip the third, founded the famous miffions, which in Europe go by the name of Paraguay, and in America, with more propriety, by that of Uraguay, from •» c * A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 97 from the river of thai name, on which they are fituated. They were always divided into colonies, which at firft were weak and few, but by gradual progrefs have been encreafed to the number of thirty-feven, viz. twenty-nine on the right fide of the Uraguay, and eight on the left fide, each of them governed by two Jefuits, in the habit of the order. Two motives, which fovereigns are al- lowed to combine, if they do not hurt each other, namely, religion and iniereft, made the Spanifli mo- narch defirous of the converfion of the Indians ; by making them catholics, they became civilized, and he obtained pofleflion of a vaft and abundant country ; this was opening a new fource of riches for the metropolis, and at the fame time making profelytes to the true Deity. The Jefuits undertook to fulfil thefe projects j but they reprefented, that in order to facilitate the fuc* cefs of fo difficult an enterprize, it was neceflTary they ihould be independent of the governors of the province, and that even no Spaniard fliould be allowed to come into the country. ^ i- • The motive on which this demand was grounded, condi wa^p the fear left the vices of the Europeans fhould di- bftw^n the minifli the ardour of their profelytes, or even remove and'the je-"^ them farther from Chriftianity ; and likewife left the Spanifti haughtinefs fliould render a yoke, already too heavy, infupportable to them. The court of Spain, ap- O proving fi jitions fuits. J.8 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. proving of thefe rcafons, ordered that the miffionaries fliould not be controuled by the governor's authority, and that they fliould get lixty tboufand piaftres a year from the royal creafure, for the expences of cuhivation, on condition that as the colonies fhould be formed, and . ..;; the lands be cultivated, the Indians £hould annually pay L' a piaftre per head to the king, from the age of eighteen 'to fixty. It was I'kewifc flipulated, that the miflionaries fiiould teach the Indiana the . Spanifli language .; but this claufe it feems has not been executed, i' ';:Mij^..,^ Zeal and fuc Thc Jcfuits cntcrcd upon this carrier with the courage ccfh of the 11. ft mioionaries. 01 martyrs, and the patience of angels. Both thefe qua- lifications were requifite to attraiH:, retain, and ufe to obedience and labour, a race of favage, inconftant men, who were attached to their indolence and independence. The obftacles were infinite, tlie difficulties encreafed at ,each ftep; but zeal got the better of every thing, and ' the kindnefs of the miflionaries at laft brought thefe wild, diffident inhabitants of the woods, to their feet. They coUecfted them into fixed habitations, gave them laws^ introduced ufeful and pohte arts among ihem ; and, in fhort, of a barbarous nation, without civilized manners, and without religious piiiiciples, they made a good-natured well governed people^ who ftric^ly ob- fervcd the Chriftian ceremonies. Thefe Indians, charmed with the perfuafiye eloquence of their apoftles, willingly 6 - obeyed A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 99 ries •ity, ^ear ion, and pay iteen aries , but urage ; qua- afe to men, encd. Ifed at and tbefe feet, them hem ; ilized made y ob- rmed lingly beyed obeyed a fct of men, who, they faw would facrifice themfelves for their happinefs j accordingly, when they wanted to form an idea of the king of Spain, they re- prefcnted him to themfelves in the habit of the order • - of St. Ignatms. "^^ However, there was a momentary revolt a cainft his RevoUofthe ' '-' Indians a- authority in the year 17 5* 7. The catholic king had e^'^"J|J^^ exchanged the colonies on the left (hore of the Uraguay againft the colony of Santo Sacramento with the Por- tuguefe. The defire of deftroying the fmuggling trade, which we have mentioned feveral times, had engaged the court of Madrid to this exchange. Thus the Ura- guay became the boundary of the refpe<5l:ive pofleffions of the two crowns. The Indians of the colonies, which had been ceded, were trp.nfported to the right hand fliore, and they made them amends in money for their loft labour and tranfpofition. But thefe men, accuflomed Caufes of to their habitations, could not bear the thought of being tent. obliged to leave the grounds, which were highly cul- tivated, in order to clear new ones. They took up arms: for long ago they had been allowed the ufe of them, to defend themfelves from the incurfions of the Paulifts, a band of robbers, defcended from Brafilians, and who had formed themfelves into a republic to- wards the end of the fixfeenth century. They revolted without any Jefuits ever heading them. It is however -2a^>ht O 2 faid, r, i t lOO They take up arms and ue defeated. The diftur- bances are appeafed. A 'VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. faid, they were really kept in the revolted villages, to exercife their facerdotai functions. -«Vj . mlr^ wnlloi nt . The governor-general of the province de la Plata, Don Jofeph Andonaighi» marched againft the rebels, and was followed by Don Joachim dc Viana, governor of Montevideo. He defeated them in a battle, wherein up- \i^aixls of two thoufand Indians were flain. He then proceeded to conquer the country; and Don Joachim fee- Ing what terror theic firft defeat had fpread amongd them, refolved to fubdue them entirely with fix hundred men. He attacked the firft colony, took poffefEon of it without meeting any refinance > and chat being taken, all the others fubmiited. '" ^ ^ -t i.c Mo.m ,; 'f.ilAt this time the court of Spain recalled Don Jofeph Andonaighi, and Don Pedro Cevallos arrived at Buenos Ayres to replace him. Viana received orders at the fame time to leave the millions, knd bring back his troops. The intended exchange was now no longer thought of, and the Portuguefe, who had marched againft the In- dians with the Spaniards, returned with them likewife. At *he time of this expedition, the noife was fpread in Europe of the eledtion of king Nirholas, an Indian* whom indeed the rebels fct up as a phantom x)f royalty., odtkuui ijiui':n 'fu^.^n^jf-y^otlyi cui ,tij«^i!:3iix r?li'Don Joa«lnm' de Viana told me, that when he re- ceived orders to ilepyc tJie miiEons, a great number of .;... ' Indians,. 1 t- A VOYAGE ROtJND THE WORLD/ loi Indians, difcon tented with the life they led, wete willing Theindiam appear dif- to follow him. He oppofed it, but could not hinder guiudwith the admini" feven families from accompanying him j he fettled them ftratjonofthe at the Maldonados, where, at prefent, they are patterns ''*^ of induftry and labour. I was furprifed at what he told me concerning this difcontent of the Indians. How is it pofTible to make it agree with all I had read of the manner in which they are governed ? I (hould have quoted the laws of the millions as a pattern of an ad- miniftration inftituted with a view to diftribuce happi- nefs and wifdom among men. -. ^.- ^-: .n.^n . Indeed, if one cafls a general view at a diftance upon this magic government, founded by fpiritual arms only^ and united only by the charms of perfuafioD, what inllitution can be more honourable to human nature i It is a focicty which inhabits a fertile land, in a happy climate, of which, alii the members are laborious, and none works for himifelf ; the produce of the common cultivation is faithfully conveyed into public flore- houfes, from whence every one receives what he wants for his nourifli.Jienr, drefs, and houfe- keeping j the man who is in full vigour, feeds, by his labour, the new-born infant ; and when time has confumed his ftrength, his fellow-citizens render him the fame fer- ^ices which he did them before. The private hdufes are convenient, the public buildings fine j the worfliip :'.: uniform I 02 ■1 Accounts of the interior government. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. uniform and fcmpulouily attended : this happy people knows neither the diftint^ion of rank, nor of nobility, and is equally flieltered againft fupcr-abundancc and wants. ■ " '-' "'■' -^-^ ''-' ■' •• ''^^^ '■'■ ■ The great diftance and the illufion of perfpedive made the millions bear this afpe(5t in my eyes, and muft have appeared the fame to every iie elfe. But the theory is widely different from the execution of this plan of government. Of this I was convinced by the following accounts, which above a hundred ocular witnefles have unnnimoufly given me. :: The extent of country in which the miflions are iituated, contains about two hundred leagues north and fouth, and about one hundred and fifty eaft and weft, and the number of inhabitants is about three hundred thoufand ; the immenfe forefts afford wood of all forts ; the vaft paftures there, contain at leaft two mil- lions of cattle ; line rivers enliven the interior parts of this country, and promote circulation and commerce throughout it. This is the fituation of the country, but the queftion now is, how did the peopl' live there? The country was, as has been told, divided into parilhes, and each parilh was direded by two Jefuits, of which, one was re<5tor, and the other his curate. The whole expence for the maintenance of the colonies was but fmall, the Indians being fed, dreffed, and lodged, by • . '.: ■ the i ■ i A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 103 the labour of their own bands j the greateft cofls were thofc ot keeping the churches in repair, all which were built and adorned magnificently. The other produc^b of the ground, and -^W the cattle, belonged to the Je- fuits, who, on their part, fcnt for the inftruments of various trades, for glafs, knives, needles, images, chap- lets of beads, gun-powder and mufkeis. Their annual revenues confided in cotton, tallow, leather, honey, and above all, in ?natJ^ a plant better known by the name of Paraguay tea, or South- Sea tea, of which that com- pany had the exclufive commerce, and of which like- wife the confumption is immenfc in the Spanifh. pof- fellions in America, where it is ufed inftead of tea« jji The Indians fhewed fo fervile a fubmiffion to their redlors, th.i.t not only both men and women fufFcred the punifliment of flagellation, after the manner of the college, for public offences, but they likewifc came of ihemfelves to follicit this chaftifement for mental faults. In every parifli the fathers annually cle<5led corr^gidors^ and their afliftants, to take care of the minuii^ of the government. The ceremony of their election was per- formed on new year's day, with great pomp, in the court before the church, and was announced by ring- ing of bells, and the playing of a band of mufic. The newly elected perfons came to the feet of the father redtor to receive the marks of their dignity, which however J 1C4 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. M |.; !■' however did not exempt them from being whipped like the others. Their grcateft diftiniftion was that of wear- ing habits, whereas, a fliirt of cotton (luff was the only drefs of the other Indians of both fexes. The feafts of the parifli, and that of the re^Slor, were Hkewife ce- lebrated by public rejoicings, and even by comedies, which probably refembled thofe ancient pieces of ours, called m^/r« or myfteries. .. The redor lived in a great houfe near the church ; adjoining to it were two buildings, in one of which were the fchools for mufic, painting, fculpture, and architecture ; and likewife, work-houfes of different trades ; Italy furnifhed them with mafters to teach the arts, and the Indians, it is faid, learn with facility: the other building contained a great number of young girls at work in feveral occupations, under the infpec- tion of old women : this was named the guatiguafu, or the feminary. The apartment of the redor commu- nicated inteinally with thefe two buildings. TJiis redtor got up at five o'clock in the morning, employed an hour in holy meditation, and faid his mafs at half pad fix o'clock ; they kifled his hands at feven o'clock, and then he publicly diftributed an ounce of mati to every family. After mafs, the retStor breakfafted, faid his breviary, conferred with the corregidors, four of whom were his minifters, and vifited the feminary, the A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. los ice ar- Uy of ce- iies, urs, rcbi hich and erent 1 the fility : oung ifpec- fu, or mu- rning, mafs feven ice of Fafted, four linary, the the fchools, and the work-lhops. Whenever he went out, it was on horfcback, and attended by a great reti- nue J he dined alone with his curate at eleven of the clock, then chatted till noon, and after that, made a Jiejla till two in the afternoon j he kept clofe in his interior ap- partments till it was prayer time, after whidi, he con- tinued in converfation till feven in the evening ; then the reiflor fupped, and at eight he was fuppofed to be gone to bed. ^ 'JJ i'''"* * "*'-'-'^' ^'^* From eight of the clock in the morning, the time of the people was taken up either in cultivating the ground, or in their work-fliops, and the corrcgidors took care to fee them employ their time well ; the women fpun cotton ; they got a quantity of it every Monday, which they were obliged to bring back con- verted into fpun yarn at the end 6f the week ; at half an hour paft five in the evening they came together to fay the prayers of their rofary, and to kifs the hands of their re Expuifion of The fociety were occupied with the care of ex- from thi'pro. tending their miffions, when the unfortunate events Plata. happened in Europe, which overturned the work of fo many ypars, and of fo unwearied patience in the new world. The court of Spain having refolved upon the expuifion of the Jefuits, was defirous that this might be ,: » . done ■M^ A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 107 ,n3 ere in*'* fon lain lOUt 3yed that were poke their n the eople, w an hem. e, as now- pre- linefs I r,. 1 1.1. 1 1 . done at the fame time throughout all its vaft dominions. Cevallos was recalled from Buenos Ayres, and Don Fran- cifco Buccarelli appointed to fucceed him. He fet out, Meafurei * * taken at the beino; inftrudled in the bufinefs which he was intended court of O Sptin for thij for, and with orders to defer the execution of it till he pufpofc* received frefli orders, which would foon be fent him. The king's confeflbr, the count d'Aranda, and feme mi- nifters, were the only perfons to whom this fecret affair was entrufled. Buccarelli made his entry at Buenos Ayres in the beginning of 1767. When Don Pedro de Cevallos was arrived in Spain, Meafures taken by the a packet was difpatched to the marquis of Buccarelli, govemor-ge- *^ * neral of the with orders both for that province, and for Chili, whither province. he was to fend them over land. This veffel arrived in Rio de la Plata in June, 1767, and the governor in- ftantly difpatched two officers, one to Peru, and the other to Chili, with the difpatches from court, diretSted to them. He then fent his orders mto the various parts of his province, where there were ai\y Jefuits, viz. to Cordoua, Mendoza, Corrientes, Santa-Fe, Salta, Monte. video, and Paraguay. As he feared, that among the commanders of thefe feveral places, feme mi^^nt not ad with the difpatch, fecrecy, and exadlnefs which the court required, he enjoined, by fending his orders to them, that they fhould not open them till on a certain day, which he had fixed for the execution, and to do it only P 2 in -i.,ii l, : (ii;' If I 108 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. in the prefence of fome perfons, whom he named, and who ferved ui the higheft eccleliaflical and civil oflices, at the above-mentioned places. Cordoua, above all, in^ terefted bis attention. In that province was the prin^ cipal houfe of the Jefuits, and the general refidence of their provincial. There they prepared and inflru(5ted in the Indian language and cufloms, thofe who werq deftined to go to the miffions, and to become heads of colonies ; there their moft important papers were ex- pecfted to be found. M. de Buccarelli refolvcid to fend ap officer of truft ther , whom he appointed the king's lieutenant of that place, and on whom, under this pre- text, he fent a detachment of foldiers to attend. It now remained to provide for the execution of the king's orders in the miffions, and this was the moft critical point. It was dubious whether the Indians would fuffer the Jefuits to be arretted in the midft of the colonies, and this violent ftep muft at all events have been (upported by a numerous body of troops. Be- iides this, it was neceflary, before they thought of re- moving the Jefuits, to have another form of govern- ment ready to fubftitute in their dead, and by that means to prevent confufion Jind anarchy. The governor refolved to temporize, and v^as contented at that time to write to the miffions, that a corregidor and a cacique from each colony ffiould be fent to him immediately, 6 in 1 ■ ' r ' [ ■: A VOYAGE ROUNfi THE WORLIJi 109 in order to comittutticate the king's letters to them. He difpatched this order with the greatefl quicknefs, that the Indians might already be on the road, and beyond the miffions, before the news of the expulfion of the Jefuits could reach thither. By this he had tw- aims in view ; the one, that of getting hoftages of the fide- lity of the colonies, when the Jefuits would be taken from thence ; the other, that of gaining the afFe<5lion of the principal Indians, by the good treatment he in- tended for them at Buenos Ayres, and of inftrU(5ling them in the new fituation upon which they would enter ; for, as foon as the reftraint would be taken away, they were to enjoy the fame privileges, and have the fame property as the king's other fubjedts. ^f ^' •■ Every meafure was concerted with the greateft fe- Thefccretu crecy, and though people wondered that a veflel fhould dfvuigedly - _ . . , , - an unforefeen arrive from Spam without any other letters than thofe accident. for the general, yet they were very f^r from fufpedling the caufe of it. The moment of the general execution was fixed to the day when aii the tx)uriers were fup- pofed to have arrived at their different deftinations, and the governor waited for that moment with impatience, when the arrival of the two xebecs * of the king from Cadiz, the Andaluz and the Adventurero, was near making all thefe precautions ufelcfs. The govcrnor- i * Chambekins. general no A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. - 1 r.:^^ general had ordered the governor of Montevideo, that in cafe any veffels fliould arrive from Europe, he Ihould not allow them to fpeak with any perfon whatfoever, before he had fent him word of it j but one of the two xebecs being in the forlorn fituation we have before mentioned, at the entrance of the river, it was very necelTary to fave the crew of it, and give her all the alfiftance which her fituation required.'*^ '^'"^ '^' ' The two xebecs had failed fr; m Spain, after the Je- fuits had been arretted there, and this piece of news could by no means be prevented from fpreading. An officer of thefe fliips was immediately fent to M. de Buccarelli, and arrived at Buenos Ayres the 9th of July, Conduft of ^' ^^^ ^^ '^^^ evening. The governor did not lofe time, *enlfar"°'" ^^ inftantly difpatched orders to all the commanders of the places, to open their former packets of difpatches, and execute their contents with the utmoft celerity. At two of the clock after midnight, all the couriers were gone, and the two houfes of the Jefuits at Buenos Ayres invefted, to the great aftonifliment of thofe fathers, who thought they were dreaming, v/hen roufed from their fleep in order to be imprifoned, and to have their papers feized. The next morning an order was publiflied in the town, which forbade, by pain of death, to keep up any intercourfe with the Jefuits, and five merchants were arrelled, who intended, it is faid, to fend advices to them at Cordoua, The A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 1 1 1 (^* r- The king's orders were executed with the fame faci- The jefuiis •^ * nre arreikd lity in all the towns. The Jefuits were furprifed every '„" ^ii the where, without having the leaft notice, and their papers *°«""* were feized. They were immediately feni from their houfes, guarded by detachments of foldiers, who were ordered to fire upon thofe that fliould endeavour to efcape. But there was no occafion to come to this ex- tremity. They fliewed the greateft refignation, humbling themfelves under the hand that fmote them, and ac- knowledging, as they faid, that their fins had deferved the puniihment which God inflicted on them. The Jefuits of Cordoua, in number above a hundred, arrived towards the end of Auguft, at the Encenada, whither thofe from Corrientes, Buenos Ayres, and Montevideo, came foon after. They were immediately embarked, and the firft convoy failed, as I have already faid, at the end of September. The others, during that time, were on the road to Buenos Ayres, where they fliould wait: for another opportunity., ^t i.> ^.oirrr.r! ...,,^ . u r .... _ ._ On the 13 th of September arrived all the corre- Arrival of the caciques gidors, and a cacique of each colony, with fome Indians a^^ ^°"^' of their retinue. They had left the miffions before any fuetjos Ayre» ' ' from the one guefifed at the reafon of their journey there. The "'^on'' news which they received of it on the road had made fome impreflion on them, but did not prevent their con- tinuing the journey. The only inflru(Slion which the i'-^ ,ci?' jDtD.i It redors n m m I I z A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. m It" it; • f- i' ■/ 1 I. !;• .1 y. re«3^r8 gave their dear profclytcs at parting, was, to believe nothing of what the governor- general fliould tell them : " Prepare, my children," did every one tell them, " to hear many untruths." At their arrival, they were immediately fent to the governor, where I was prefent at their recention. They entered on horfeback to the number of a hundred and twenty, and formed a crefcent in two lines j a Spaniard underftanding the lan- guage of the GuaraniSf ferved thtin as an interpreter* They appear The govcmor appeared in a balcony ; he told them, governor- that thcy wcre welcome j that they Ihould go to reft themfelves, and that he would fend them notice of the day which he fliould fix in order to let them know the king's intentions. He added, in general, that he was come to releafe them from flavery, and put them in pofleffion of their property, which they had not hitherto enjoyed. They anfwered by a general cry, lifting up their right hands to heaven, arnl wilhing all profperity to the king and governor. They did not feem dif- '' contented, but it was eafy to difcover more furprize ' than joy in their countenance. On leaving the gover- nor's palace, they were brought to one of the houfes of the Jefuits, where thcy were lodged, fed, and kept at the king's expence. The governor, when he fent for them, exprefsly mentioned the famous €acique Nicholas, but they wrote him word, that his great age and his in- firmities did not allow him to come out. Ac A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. lis ,r Ac my departure from Buenos Ay res, the Indians had not yet been called to an audience of the general. He was willing to give them time to learn fomething of the language, and to become acquainted with the Spa* nifh cuiloms. I have been feveral times to fee them. They appeared to me of an indolent temper, and feemed to have that ftupid air fo common in creatures caught in a trap. Some of them w^re pointed out to me as very intelligent, but as they fpokc no other language but that of the Guaranis, I was not able to make any eftimate of th& degree of their knowledge -, I only heard a cacique play upon the violin, who, I was told, was a great mudcian ; he played a fonata, and I thought I heard the flrained founds of a ferinette. Soon after the arrival of thefe Indians at Buenos Ayres, the news of the expulfion of the Jefuits having reached the mifhons, the marquis de Bucardli received a letter from the provincial, who was there at that time, in which he aflured him of his fubmiffion, and of that of all the colonies to the king's orders. r u a? ^. ♦, ,< i ' Thefe miffions of the Guaranis and Tapes, upon the „ * '^ Extent oF Uraguay, were not the only ones which the Jefuits *•** "iffion** founded in South America. Somewhat more northward they had collecSted and fubmitted to the fame laws, the Mojos, Chiquitos, and the Avipones. They likewife were making progreffes in the fouth of Chili, towards the Q „ iHc m ' f, ■ -I I ,1.:;:^ •114 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. ifle of Chiloe ; and a few years fince, ihey have open« ed themfelves a road from that province to Peru, paifing through the country of the Chiquitos, which is a fliorter way than that which was- followed till then. In all the countries into which they penetrated, they erected pofts, on which they placed their motto ; and on the map of their colonies,' which they have fettled; the latter are placed under the denomination of O/^^/iia Cbrijiiamrum, ■* ■ '-^5 -.r- ,;!;.r-.>^,- ' ;.:, It was expefted, that in feizihg the cffedHs of the Jcfuits in this province, very confiderable fums of money would be found: however, what was obtained that way, . amounted to a mere trifle. Their magazines indeed were ^urnifhed with merchandizes of aU forts, both of the. produdts of the country, and of goods imported from Europe; There were even many forts which could not have a fale in ihefe provinces. The number of their flaves was eoiifiderabic, arid in thei^ hoiife at Cordoua alone, they iieckotted three thoufand five hundred. ' I cannot enter into a detail of zW that the public of Buenos Ayres pretends to have found in the papers - -A of the Jcfuits; the animolity is yet too recent to en- able me to diftinguifh true imputations ft-om falfe ones. I will rather do juftice to the majority of the members of this focicty, ^ho Were not interefled in its temporal affairs.' If thef6 i;*eire fome intriguing men in this (irnrrrl: '' ^ S^ bodyi A \OYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. iijr 2a- 1 is len. hev and tied; ppida I the [onty way, were of the. from d not flaves lone, >ublic )apers |o en- ones. ibers tporal this body, body, the far greater number, who were finccrely pious, did not confider any thing in the inftitution, befides the piety of its founder, and worfliipped God, to whom they had confecrated themfelves, in fpiric and in truth. I have been infoi^ned, on my return to France, that the marquis de Bucarelli fet out from Buenos Ayres for the miflions, the 1 4th of May, 1768; and that he had not met with any obftaclc, or refiftance, to the execution of his moft catholic majefty's orders. My readers will be able to form ah idea of toe manner in which this inteicfting event was terminated, by reading the two following pieces^ which contain an account of the firft fcene. It is a narrative of what happened at the colony of Yapegu, fituated upon the Uraguay, and which lay the firft in the Spaniih general's way -^ all the others have followed the example of this.;jvv ..mh ...;. j.i;.. . >v'/!t ji'jm if:- lanirimx ^d'l .e^nniyoiq siod] ai ulcl b 07£d' ^Tranjlaiion of a letter from a, captain of the grenadiers of the regiment of Major ca% cqmmancling one of the detachments of the expedition into Paraguay. , . s Vii\y^ ^n'j m i>nuo'i ovcH >n YapegUi the i9ih July, ij^68. XV2 *^ Yesterday we arrived here very happily; the re- Account of «* ception given to our general has been moft magni- genml'/en- *^ ficent, and luch as could not be expected from fo miflions.. J- fimple ai; ipeople, fo little < ,accuftomed ytp fliows. *' Here is a college, which has very rich and numerous fk<' Qw^ " church i P 1^^ pm 1 f '•; i !■ ltll|Wii 1 -I (( IC (( ii6 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. « church ornaments; there is likcwife a great quantity ** of plate. The fettleraent is fomewhat lefs than Mon- " tevideo, but more regularly difpofed, and well peopled^ •* The houfes are fo uniform, that after feeing one, you " have feen them all j and the fame, after you have fcen " one man and woman, you have feen them all, there " being not the leaft diiference in the manner in which " they are dre&d. There are many muficians, but they •* are only middling performers. " *-' i.- -v^ ** As foon as we arrived near this miffion, the go- vernor-general gave orders to go and feize the father provincial of the Jefuits, and fix other fathers, and to- bring them to a place of fafety. They are to embark " in a few days on the river Uraguay. However, we- ** believe they will day at Salto, in order to wait till the- " reft of their brethren have undergone the fame fate.. ** We expelled to make a ftay of five or fix days at Ya- " pegu, and then to continue our march to the laft •' miflion. We are very well pleafed with our general,. " who has procured us all poffible refrefhments. Yefter- " day we had an opera, and fhall have another repre- " fentation of it to-day. The good people do all they ♦* can, and all they know. ^^ > " Yefterday we likewife faw the famous Nicolas, " the fame whom people were fo defirous to confine, " He was in a deplorable fituation,^^ and almoft naked. . . "He J. J* A V 6 Y A 5 e' R C U N b T H E W R L D. ■ ** rie is feventy years of age, and feems to be a very " fenfible man. His excellency fpoke with him a long «• time, and feemcd very much pleafed with his con- "verfation:^"*^'^ '**'''' ''^^^'"^^'~"' " This is all the news I can inforni'you oS vr^. •jno Relation pub'iJJjed at Buenos Ayres of the entry of hh exrdkncy •'"' Don Francifco BucareW v Urfua, in the mijjion of Tape gu* one ofthofe belonging to the Jefuits^ among the nations ofGua- 01 ranis, on bis arrival there iht i^tbofjulyt 17 68 J ^^ *' " At eight o'clock in the morning, his excellency " went out of the chapel of St. Martin, at one league's *l diftance from Yapegu. He was accompanied by his " guard of grenadiers and dragoons, and had detached " two hours before the companies of grenadiers of " Majorca, in order to take pofle^on of, and get ready , " every thing at the river of Guavirade, which muft be " crolTed in canoes and ferries. This rivulet is about /r •■■■ ..'■•«■. , • . " half a league from the colony. , , , ^J • I t. f^ *■: V I ' ^ /A -^ -^ -J rf"! . M '-^ flew fi .'• ' " As foon as his excellency had crofled the rivulet, »• he found the caciques and corregidors of the miffions, " who attended with the Alferes of Yapegu, bearing the *« royal ftandard. His excellency having received all "the honours and compliments ufual on fuch occa- *♦ fions, got on horfeback, in order to make his public i:.Vri « entry. f'>.'. /.(jCfTrvi nwi-^^'J :.i-: . n.o,r//i.n Don Jofepb Je ///f/r^K/ra, a man of abilities, great integrity, and fupcrior courage, was then inverted with the dignity of Proteftor of the Indians. Accompanied only by one jihuazil Mayer^ cilled Jo/tph eit Mena ; and with the deed, impower- iiig him with the vifitation of the miflions, he went with fpirit on his bufiiicfs ; and after his arrival at the city of AfTumption, he acquainted the Jefuits with the com- njiflion. Tlie reverend fathers told him, that he had taken in vain the pains of coming to their mifTions, where he would never get admittance; and if he fliould attempt to force his way, he would repent of it.. Antequera did neither know the bad charafterof thefe people, nor did he fear their threats, and went ihcrcfore on b's inteiKled journey. But he was foon furrounded by a large detachment of arm- ed Indians, with Jefuits at their head, who fell upon hixn \ and he efcap^ ^y a fudden flight only. The unfortunate. Alguazilj being willing to encounter a German Jefuit, was dangeroufly wounded. The Jefuits, not contented with this inconfideratc (lep, accufed Antequera, as an adventurer, who had attempted to aflunie the dignity of a king of . Paraguay, at the. city of AfTumption; but that the reverend fathers, as faithful fubjefts to his Catholi j Majefty, had driven him out by main force ; and they rcquefted, therefore, to be recompenfedfor this fignal fervice to their fovercign. Don Armendar'tx, Marquis de Cajiel FmrU, thirty -third viceroy of Peru, entire- ly devoted to the JeCuits, fent Don Jofeph de Antequera, in confequence of this, accufation, immediately to a dungeon. He was examined ; and though his coun- fellors had written iivc thoufand fheets in bis defence, he was, however, hanged for the crime of revolting againft his fovereign, the fifth of Jime, together with his alFidant Jofeph de Mcna, who was ftill very ill from the wound received at AfTumption. ^ ^ Lima and all Peru revolted againft their viceroy, on the account of fo fhotking and tyrannical an adVion. The troops were fent to quell the riots. The blood of tboufands flowed in the ftreets of Lima, and Itained the valliesof Peru. All the men of integrity and honour at Lima, Cufco, Cuen^a, and Chuquifaca took up mourning for Antequera, the innocent vi£lim of the revenge of the pious fathers, and of the defpotifm of the arbitrary viceroy, their tool.. This tranfadtioa ruined the credit of the Jefuits in Peru. The reverend miffionaries found menus to fettle extenfive eftabliOiments on the Uraguay, and the interior parts of Paraguay, upon the Pilco Mayo, and other rivers. They collefted firft, by gentle means, fomc of the Indian tribes into fmall fettlc- ments, taught them hufbandry, and the moft neceflary arts ; and afterwards, mufic, painting, and fcu'jture ; all were inftru£led in the ufe of arms. By the help of thcfc firft colonies, they often forced the free rambling tribes of interior America, under the holy yoke of the gofpcl, and into fubjeftion to thefe zealous mifiionaries. The poor wretches were then cloathed with a callico (hiit, and got their allowance of meat. h\ i At ■H M.-| . ,. 120 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WQRLD. mifllons, has been one of the raoft interefting circura- ilances. meat, msiize, and caamin! ; but they were in return obliged to drudge for the good fathers, in planting the Paraguay tea, cotton, tobacco, and fugar. Every ounce of cotton and caamini raifcd by thefe flaves mud be delivered into the focicty's florc- houfes, from whence they were tranfported and fold for the benefit of the miflio- naries : thofc who concealed any of the above articles, got twelve laflies, in honour of the twelve apoftles, and were confined to fading during three days in the public work-houfe. Benedi£t XIV. the head of the Romilh church, a man, whofe huma- nity and cxtenfive learning is fo univerfally known, publifhed two bulls againd the Jefuits, wherein he excommunicates them, for the pra£licc of enflaving the poor pro- fclytcs, and keeping them no better than animals; (whom men deprive of their liberty, and domedicate them with a view of making ufe of them in the mod la- borious employments) and for ufing religion as a cloak to oppreflion, defpotifmf and tyranny ; in order to deprive free-born beings and their fellow -creatures of liberty, the fird and mod precious of all their enjoyments and privileges in this prefent life. Thefe bulls will be for ever the ftronged proofs of the truth of thefe alTcrtions, and of the fpecious tyranny of the Jefuits. 1 »ie iniquitous praftices in regard to the trade of the Paraguay-tea, are fo well rtatcd, that whole tribes of Indians were brought to the dilemma either to enlid as bondmen to the Jefuits, or to be ftarved ; the complaints of fo many Indian plantations of South-Sea tea dedroycd by thejefuits, were always heard, examined, and reported to the court of Spain ; but the influence of the Jefuits prevented the council of the Indies from taking any deps for the punifliment of the pious fathers ) and they wouKl ftili remain unknown and unpunilhed, had not this fociety been fo fiiddenly involved in their ruin, by the precaution of the court of Spain. F. ,^ :1 JiJilJ I'JiD. //' I '^vt'V- M.i;,,'), .1.,... • V. - "v. I T ;■:>/■ C H A P* #.; A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 4.- \'r)'l.VI_;Jfl» ilCUn 'ri' }(/ '(,7 ' r' m'. .♦- fl ,i»r?r,if.irn 121 '.'WA tf red fand. In going from Montevideo to the Encenada, as foon as you have made the beacon in E. by S. and have five fathoms of water, you have pafied the banks. We have obferved 15' Aeg, 30. min^ N.E. variation in the channeL * This fmall paflage coft us three men, who were drowned ; the boat getting foul under the fliip, which was wearing, went to the bottom j all our efforts fufficed only to fave two men and the boat, which had not loft her mooring-rope. 1 likewife was forry to fee, that, notwithftanding the repairs the Etoile had undergone, ihe ftill noade water ; which made us fear that the fault lay in the caulking of the whole water-line j the Ihip had been free of water till flie drew thirteen feet. m d We 4 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 123 were ihip, our boat, was the Ixnade fhole drew We employed fome days to ft^w all the viduals into preparations rt 1 1 1 ''"' leaving tht BoUdeufe, which me could hold, and to caulk her Rw dt la Plati. over again j ^hich l^ras an dpcration, that could not be done fooner, oil account of the abfence of her caulkera, who had been etnployed in theEtoilej we likewife re- paired the boat of the Etoile j cut grafs for the cattle we had on board j and embarked whatever we had on fliore. The tenth of November was fpent in fwaying up our top-maft« and lower yards, and fetting up our rig* ging, &€. We Could have failed the fame (ky^ if we had not grounded. On the 1 1 th, the tide coming in, the ihips floated, and we caft anchor at the head of the road ; Where veffels ate always a-float. The two fbl* lowing days We could riot fail, ori account of the high fea ; but this delafy was ftdt entirely lifelefs* A fchoo<^ nci* came from Buenos Ayres, ladcti with flour, and we took fixty hundred Weight of it, which* we i!hade Ihift to flow in our fhips. We had ritOw victuals for ten months ; though it is true, that the greateft part of the drink ccnfifted of brandy* The crew was in perfe<5t health. The long flay they made iti Rio de la Plata, during which a third part of them alternately lay on I (hore. and the frefli meat they were always fed with, ^ „ . ' Condition of had prepared them for the fatigues and miferies of all Jj|';5;f,7'' '^ kinds, which we were obliged to undergo. I left at ^Xo^^"^''' R 2 ''^''' Monre- :■ h' m: ill f • i 124 it ^4■ . ■ I i i ill A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Montevideo my pilot, my mafter-carpenter, my armour- er, and a warrant-officer of my frigate ; whom age and incurable infirmities prevented from undertaking the voyage. Notwithftanding all our care, twelve men, foldiers and failors, defened from the two fhips. I had, however, taken fome of the failors at the Malouines, who were engaged in the fiftiery there ; and likewife an engineer, a fupercargo, and a furgeon ; by this means my fhip had as many hands as at her departure from Europe j and it was already a year fince we had left the river of Nantes, .j „ ;,^ :^kiuu^f^ ^ .. . > The 1 4th of November, at half paft four in tb** morning, wind due north, a fine breeze, we failed from Montevideo. At half paft eight we were N. and S. off the ifle of Flores j and at noon twelve leagues £. and£. by S. from Montevideo ; and from hence I took feiy point of departure in 34° s4 40'^ S. la:, and 58° 5 7^ It pofition 3 <>^ W. long, from the meridian of Paris. I have laid ijdeunn^ned. down the pofitiou of Montevideo, fuch as M. Verron has determined it by his obfervations ; which places its lon- gitude 40' ^6" more W. than Mr. Bellin lays it down in his chart. I had likewife profited of my ftay on Ihore, to try my ocftant upon the diftances of known ftars ; this inftrument always made the altitude of every flar too little by tvvo minutes j and I have always fince attended to this corredlion. I mufl mention here, that , . ia Departure from Monte- video. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 12S ir- ,nd the .en, lad, nes, wife this rture had , i}i.i'(ff \ the from S. off indE. 'ttiy -5/ in all the gourfe of this Journal, I give the bearings of the coafts, fuch as taken by the compafs ; whenever I give them correfted, according to the variations, I fliall take care to mention it. hi-> ^*^f^^.hr}numtfir■\^,>>/i 'Q^-^t// On the day of our departure, we faw land till fun-fet j Soundings and naviga-. our foundings conftantly encreafed, and changed from «ion »« j!'5j an, oozy to a fandy bottom j at half paft fix of the gaihacns. clock we found thirty-five fathom, and a grey Tand ; and the Etoile, to whom I gave a fignal for founding on the fifteenth in the afternoon, found fixty fathom, and the fame ground: at noon we had obferved 36** i^ of latitude. From the 1 6 th to the 21ft we had con- trary winds, a very high fea, and we kept the moft advantageous boards in tacking under our courfes and clofe-reefed top-fails ; the Etoile had ilruck hjr top- gallant mafts, and we failed without having our's up. The 22d it blew a hard gale, accompanied with violent fqualls and fhowcrs, which continued all night ; the fea was very dreadful, and the Etoile made a fignal of diftrefs j we waited for her under our fore-fail and main-fail, the lee clue- garnet hauled up. This fl:ore- (hip feemed to have her fore top-fail-yard carried away. The wind and fea being abated the next morning, we made fail, and the 24th I made the fignal for the Etoile to come within hail, in order to know what Ihe had fuffered in the laft gale. M. de la Giraudais informed I I m i'li iz6 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. fffW '■ ■ a::!lv I I Hidden rock not taken notice of In the chares. informed me, that befides his fore top-fail yard, four of his cIva.lI plates * had likewife been carried away ; he added, that lil the cattle he had taken in at Monte- video, had been loft, two excepted : this misfortune we had Ihared with him ; but this was no coDfoIation, for we knew not when we Ihould be able to repair this lofs. During the remaining part of this month, the winds were variable, from S. W. to N. W ; the currents carried us fouihward with much rapidity, as far as 45° of latitude, where they became infenfible. We founded for feveral days fucceffively without finding ground, and it was not till the 27 th at night, being in the latitude of about 47°, and, according to our reckon- ing, thirty-five leagues from the coaft of Patagonia, that we founded feventy fathom, oozy bottom, with a fine black and grey fond. From that day till we faw the land, we had foundings in 67^ 60, 55, 50, 47, and at laft forty fathom, and then we firft got fight of Cape Virgins t» The bottom was fometimes oozy, but al- ways of a fine fand, which was grey, or yellow, and fometimes mixed with fmall red and black gravel. I would not approach too near the coaft till I came in latitude of 49°, on account of a funken rock or vigie, * Chaines de haubans. t Cap lies Vierges, called Cape Virgin Mary by Lord Anfon and Sir John Narborough. F. , which A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 127 came Ivigie, jir John rhich 1767. ivhich I had difcovered in 1765, in 48° 30' fouth la- titude, about fix or feven leagues oflf Ihore. I difcovered it in the morning, at the fame moment as I did the land, and having taken a good obfervation at noon, the weathei? b«ing very fair, I was thus enabled to deter- mine its latitude with preciiion. We ran within a quarter of a league of this rock, which the firfl perfon who faw it, originally took to be a grampus. ^.,,.^^ hrIrxJr^ The I ft and id of December, the winds were fa- December. vourable from N. and N. N. E j very frefli, the fea high, and the weather hazy; we made all the fail we could in day time, and paiTed the nights under our fore-fail, and clofe- reefed top-^^ils. During all this time v/e faw the birds called ^ebrmtahuejfos, or Albatrojfes., and what in all the feas in the world is a bad fign, petrels, which d; frppear when the weather is fair, and the fea fmooth. We likewife faw feals, penguins, and a great number of whales. Some of thefe monftrous creatures feemed to have their Ikin covered with fuch white vermiculi, which faflen upon the bottoms of old fhips that are fuffered to rot in the harbours. On the 30th of No- vember, two white birds, like great pigeons, perched on our yards. I had already feen a flight of thefe birds crofs the bay of the Malouines. , ; On the 2d of December in the afternoon, we dif- sightofCape covered Cape Virgins, and we found it bore S. about ^''^""' .; • feven ta •t\ m 128 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. ; ii • B l.i.: fevcn leagues diftant. At noon I had obferved 52' S. itspofition. lat. and I was now in 52° 3' ^6" of latitude, and in 7 1" 12' 20'^^ of longitude weft from Paris. This petition of the fliip, together with the bearing, places Cape Virgins in 52° 23^ of latitude, and in 71° 2/ 20'^ of longitude weft from Paris. As Cape Virgins is an interefting point in geography, I muft give an account of the reafons which induced me to believe that the pofition I give is nearly exa>» This longitude of Cape Virgin is more wefterly by 4 2' 2 o' than that which M. Bellin places it in, and this is the fame difference which appears in his pofition of Montevideo, of which we have given an account in the beginning of this chapter. Lord Anfon's chart affigns for the longitude of Cape Virgins, 72° weft from London, which is near 7 5° weft from Paris * j a much * 74" 25' ; Paris being 2° 25' E. from London : vide Fergufon's Tables. F. '2? 'J m I s more ii i' ; ■- il; ; 1 ^ • % (;. I i i I3« A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Digredion upon ilie in Rr; neiu. ■ ■., rr fo' i.';. more confidcrable error, whkii he iikcwife commits at the mouth of the river Phita, and generally along the whole coiiil cf Patagonia. ', .i i-^ . . » ., ,-f The obfervations which we have now mentioned, have been made with the Englilh octant. This method ^•;iervini;tiie of determining the longitude, by means of the diflances !'>.'. "ude at of the moon from the fun, or from the liars in the zo- diac, has been known for feveral years. McfT dc la Caille and Dapres have particularly made ufe of it at fea, likewife employing Hadley's 0(5tant. But as ihe degree of accuracy obtained by this method depends in a great meafure upon the accuracy of the inllrument with which you obferve, it follows that M, Bouguev's he- liometer, if one could meafure great" angles with ir, would be very fit for recStifying thefe obfervations of diftances. The Abbe de la Caille probably has thought of that, becaufe he got one made, which would mea- fure arcs of fix or feven degrees ; and if in his works he does not fpeak of it as an inftrument fit for ob- ferving at fea, it is becaufe he forefaw the difficulty of ufing it on board a fhip. .jUh::-;,x^L\ ucm ija/rnc ^j. M. Verron brought on board with him an inftrument called a megameter, which he has employed in the other voyages he made with M. de Charnieres, and which he has likewife mac|e ufe of on this. This inftrument appeared to be very little different from the heliometer of ment lother :hhe Iment leter of A VOYAGE ROUNT) THE WORLD. 131 of M. Bougucr, except that t u fcrcw by which the ob- je(ftives move, being longer, it places them at a greater diflancc afundcr, and by that means makes the in- ftrument capable of meafuring angles of ten degrees, which was the limit of M Verron's megameter. It is to be wifhed, that by lengthening the fcrew, wc were able to augment its extenfion flill more, it being con- fined in tc 1 f* TOW bounds to allow a frequent repeti- tion, an- °v?.i> vo make the obfervations exa, 4achaon, who was physician to the gods ; and,, I believ s that many Machaons Might be found amon^g: the Indians in Canada. '-"'^ ''■'^''" "'• '''' ''^^'' f- '• We exchanged fome trilies, valuable in their eyes,, -againfl fkins oi giianacoa and vicunnas. They afked us by figns for tobacco j and they were likewife very fond of any thing red : as foon as they faw fomething of that colour upon us, they came to flroke it with their hands,, and feemed very defirous of it. At every prefent which- we gave them, and at every mark of fondnefs, they re- 4 peated A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. peated their Jhawa, and cried (o that it almofl dunned us. We gave them fome brandy j giving each of them only a fmall draug^ht: as foon as they had fwallowed it, they beat with their hands on their throat, and by blov^ing with their mouths, uttered a tremulous in- articulate found, which terminated in a quick motion of the lips. They all made the fame droll ceremony^ which was a very llrange fight to us, , . , , j v , , ,' However, it grew late, and was time to return on board. As foon as they fav/ that we were preparing, for that purpofe, they feemed forry ; they made figns for us to wait, bccaufe fome more of their people were coming. Wc made rigi^-s th^r we would return the next day, and thar \\2 would bring them what they dcfircd: they feemed as ir they would have liked our pafling the night on i^^c: mucli better. When they faw that we were goin^, ihey accompanied us to the fea.fliore; a Patagoniai« fiing during ihis march. Some of them w it into the water up to their knees, in order to follow us further. When we were come to our boats, we were L>liged to look after every thing ; for they got hold of all that was within their reach. One -f them had taken a fickle, but on its being perceived, he return- ed ii without reliHance; Before we were got to any diilance, we perceived their troops encreafe, by the arri- val of others,, who caiie in full gallop* We did not fail. I4t w i ilii mm lii; m jr ;"!: i ^■■i 142 '■i. H Defciiption Americans. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. as we left them, to ihout JJjawa fj loud that the whole coafl refoundcd with it. Thefc Americans are the fame with thofe feen by the Etoile in 17 6^. One of onr failors, who was then on board that vefTel, now knew one of thefe Americans again, having f?en him in the firft voyage. They have a fine fliape ; among thofe whom we faw, none vas below five feet five or fix inches, and none above five feet nine or ten inches •'■ j the crew of the F.roile had even feen feveral in tlie preceding voyage, fix f'ca (or fix feet, 4,728 inches Englifli) high V/hat makes them appear gigantic, are their prodigious broad flioulders, the fize of their heads, and the thickncf^ of all their Hmbs. They are robufl and well fed : their nerves are braced, and their mufcles are flrong and fufficiently hard ; they are men left entirely to nature, and fupplied with food abounding in nutritive juices, by which means they are come to the full growth they are capable of : their figure is not coarfe or dif'grceable ; on the contrary, many of vhem are handfome : their face is round, and fomcwhat flattifli j their eyes very fiery j their teeth vallly white, and would only be fomewhat too great at Paris ; they have long black hair tied up on the top of * This is to, be unclerflooil in French ir.eafurc, in which the French foot exceeds tnc Englifli by ,788 of an inch ; accurdingiy, in French meafure, 5 feet 6 inchest 5 feet, 10,334, inches Englifli ; and French 5 feet 10 inches are=:6 feet, 2,5704, Ruches L»j:liil). F. 8 their A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 143 their heads j I have fcen fome of them with long but thin whilkers. Their colour is bronzed, as it is in all the Americans, without exception, both in thofe who inhabit the torrid zone, and thofe who are born in the temperate and in the frigid ones. Some of them had their cheeks painted red : their language feemed very delicate, and nothii.-g gave us rcalbn to fear any ferocity in them. Wc have not fcen their women ; perhaps they were about to come to us ; ^or the men aivvays defired that we Ihould (lay, and they had fent one of their people towards a great fire, near which their camp feemed to be, about a league from us ; and they flicwed us that fomebody would come from thence. , The drefs of thefe Patagonians is very nearly the fame wiih that of the Indians of Rio de la Plata ; they have merely a piece of leather which covers their na- tural parts, and a great cloak o^ i^ua?iaco ov firilios fidns, which is faflened round the body with a girdle ; this cloak hangs down to their heels, and they generally lulTer that part which is intended to cover the flioul- ders to fall back, i'o that, notwithftanding the rigour of the climate, they are almod always naked from the girdle upwards. Habit has certainly made them in- fenfible to cold ; for though we were here in fummer, Reaumur's thermometer was only one day rifcn to ten degrees l< I ill 144 H • ! ¥r ' A VOYAbE ilbUND ThE WbllLD. degrees above the freezing point. Thcfe men have a kind of half boots, of horfe-leaiher, open behind, and two or three of them had on the thigli a copper ring, about two inches broad. Some of my ofliccrs Hkewifc obferved, that two of the youngcfl among them had fuch beads as arc employed for making necklaces. The only arms which we obferved among them, are, two round pebbles, faftencd to the two ends of a twiflcd gut, like thofe wliich are made ufe of in all this part of America, and which we have dcfcribcd above. They had likewife little iron knives, of which the blade was between an inch and an inch and a half broad. Thcfc knives, which were of an Englifli manufa(5lory, were certainly given them by Mr. Byron. Their horfcs, whicii are little and very lean, were bridled and faddlcd in the fame manner as ihofc belonging to the inhabitants of Rio de la Plata. One of the Patagonians had at his faddle, gilt nails ; wooden ftirrups, covered with plates of copper ; a bridle of twifted leather, and a whole Spanifli harnefs. The principal food of the Pa- tagonians feems to be the marrow and flefli of gumiacoes and vicitnnas ; many of them had quarters of this fleHi faftened on their horfcs, and we have feen them cat ■pieces of it quite raw. They had likewife little nafty iJi . H' ii» ^1 1 I 46 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. u Second time of anchoring in Boucauk b.y. during this navigation, and it had llruck me already in my firll voyage. At half pad nine in the evening, the ebb let tQ weftvvard. We founded at high water ■, and found the depth was cncreafed to twenty-one fa- thoms, from eighteen, which we had when we caft anclior. On the <;th, at half an hour pad four in the morn- ing, the wind being N. W. we fee all our fails in or« ^i' to llcni the tide, (leering S. W. by W. we advanced only one league ; t"'2 wind veering to S. W. and blowing very frefh, we anchored again in nineteen fathom, bottom of fand, ooze, and rotten fliells. The bad weather continued throughout this day and the next. The fliort diftance wt were advanced had brought us further from the lliore, and during thefe two days,, there was not one favourable inftaat for fending out a boat, for which, the Patagonians vi^ere certainly as forry as ourfelves. We faw the whole troop of them col- ledled at the place where we landed before, and we thought v/e perceived with our perfpe6live glafTes, that they had erecfled fome huts there. However, I apprehend that their head quarters were more diftant, for men on horfeback were conftantly going and coming. AVe were very forry that we could not bring them what v/e had promifed j they might be fatisfied at a fmall expence. .ul * A mcr c'talc, The 1 1.1 , < A '. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WOULD. M7 The diiTercnce of ihc depth at the different times of tide, was only one fathom here. On the i oth, from an obfervation of the moon's diftance from Rcgulus, M. Vcrron calculated our wcfl: longitude in this anchoring place, at 73° 26' i s\ and that of the caftcrly entrance of the fccond gut, at 73° 34 30''. Reaumur's thermo- meter fell from 9° to 8° and 7°. The 1 I til, at half an hour after midnight, the wind Lof^o^.n anchor, veering to N. E. and the tide fetting to weflward an hour before, 1 made fignal for weighing. Our eiForts to that purpole were fruitlcfs, though we had got the winding-tackle upon the cable. At two in the morn- ing, the cable parted between the bits and the hawfe, and fo we loft our anchor. We fet all our fails, and foon had the tide againft us, whicK we were hardly able to flem with a light breeze at N. W. though the tide in the fecond gut is not near fo flrong^ as in the firft. At noon the ebb came to our alTiftance, and we pafled the fecond gut *, the wind having been variable Pa^ng'^s till three in the afternoon, when it blew very frcfli from S. S. W. and S. S. E. with rain and violent fqualls f. * The didance between the W. point or end of ihe firfl; gut, and the entrance of the fecond, is about fix or feven leagues, and the breadth of the flralts there i* likewife about feven leagues. The fecond gut lies N. E. by E. and.S. W. by, VV. it is about a league and a half broad, and three or four long. t In paflmg the fecond gut, it is ncceflliry to keep along the coafl: of Patagonia, becaufe, when yon come out of the gut, the tides rim for.thward, a;ul you mull; be careful to avoid a low point, proje£ting below the head-land of St George's ifie, , and though this apparent cape is high and ftcep, the low hxnd auvanccj far to W. N. W. U 2 hi tl IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) K^ 4^ i.O 1.1 1.25 bi|2t 125 ■JO ^^" n^ M 12.0 mi ^1^ ^^ "^ V2 /, *.^*> -^y ^ '/ V Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. I4S80 (716) 873-4503 iV i SJ v :\ \ t^S A VOYAGE ROUND THF WORLD. a .s V'l' ! In two boards we came to the anchoring- place, to the Wc anchor northward of thie ifle of Elizabeth, where we anchored, rear the ille •lEiizibeth. ts^o miles ofT Ihore, in feven fathom, grey fand with gravel and rotten fliells. The Etoile anchored a quarter -of a league more to the S. E. than we did, and had fcvcntcen fathom of water. '^ We were obliged to flay here the iith and 12th, on account of the contrary wind, which was attended with violent fqualls, rain, and hail. On the 12th in the afternoon, we hoifled out a boar, in order to go on ihore on the ifle of Elizabeth *. We landed in the N. E. part of the ifland. Its coafts are high and fteep, except at the S. W. and S. E. points, where the fliore is low. However, one may land in every part of it, as there is always a fmall flip of flat land under the high perpendicular (hores. The foil of the ifle is very dry } we found no other water than that of a little Defcription pool 1" ^hc S. W. part of the ifle, but it was very brackifli. We likewifc faw feveral dried marflies, where the earth is in feme places covered wiih a thin crufl; of fait. We found fome buftards, but • The ifle of Elizabeth f liesN. N. E. and S S. W. with the weft point of the fccond gut, on the Patagonian fide. The iflcs of St. Barthclcmi (St. Bartholomew) and of Lions likewife, lie N. N. E. and S. S. W. between them and the weft point ©f the fecond gut on St. George's ifland. »f ihu iile. ^ A !l '^ t The French call it Sainte Elizabeth. F. ihcy fct. '■ f A VOTAGE ROUND THE WORLD. «4« Aey were in fmall number, and fo very (hy, that we were never able to come near enough to (hoot them : they were however fitting on their eggs. It appears that the favages come upon this iflancJ. We found a dead dog, fome marks of fire places, and the remnants of (hells, the fi(h of which had been feafted upon. There is no wood on it, and a fmall fort of heath is the only thing that may be ufed as fuel. We had already colleded a quantity of it, fearing to be obliged to pafs the night on this ide, where the bad weather kept us iill nine of the clock in. the evening : we fliould have been botk ill lodged and. ill fed on it. // ;r.ir »i'| .J r fjnj. Mi r^ ijnj*i& jqjjjto ,lr lo nr.q ^ij'/i? ru huai rny'- .'mo .TJViv/'jli v/ol ai .J i .jIIl ,.in iu if} f^V ,'::nod\ ir>iij:>LbD'jqiaq .ff;^;ifl );;iM j; Ic iiiiij JI£ii> IJILVA I'jjIjo on hniJOi DV/ ; /ill nj* cMi'N n JU(} t'jiii sih ^o rjcq .7/ .8 jrh ni looq i; 1 » ;ij'. 'Oil 1 l«, -. '• ,HjjiiiJl!r(f i>rn.,i Iniuoi yW Jlij "Jo jljji:) ni;l: b.i.ifli ■j'^.j^iosO .jci jm iijjj i>;iyC»3i :jf;J i> i U.iUiii.iJl Vilittl 3i lii.- iljj.Jjl srfT I CHAP. >m1' ' ':.i 'ii '-.^ ) ' IS^ --K / i/ t'\.. JPVOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. i / ii'- ' ♦«.." jil« ioji_.£ii Dii^ -t»^^i' ^'iiia- ■>'':■• ■'^'^' H'^^-''*^ i''^ ^^•^'-' CHAP. IX. ■-111 I 7^^ run from the ijle of Elizabeth, through the Jlr aits of Magal- Safns . Nautical details on this navigation. , •) oi Difficulties the naviga' tion along the ideot kl.zabcth. of TXT" E wdre now going to enter the woody part of the the ftraits of Magalhaens j and the firft difficult itep3 were ah-eady made. It was not till the i 3th in the afternoon, the wind being N. W. that we weighed, notwithftanding the force with which it blew, and made fail in the channel, which fcparates the ifle of Elizabeth from the ifles of St. Barthelemi and of Lions *. We were forced to carry fail J though there were almoft continually very violent fqualls coming off the high land of Elizabeth ifland j a- long which we were obliged to fail, in order to avoid the breakers, which extend around the other two ifles f. The ! .' . ...,?,,, •1(1. 1 ,V' ( : i' iJ.I niijlli * The ifles of St. Barthelcmi and of Lions, are connected togctbcr by a fhoal. There are likewife two fhoals} oiie S. S. W. of the ifle of Lions, and the other W. N. VV. of St. Harthelemi, one or two leagues diftant j fo that thefe three (lioJs, and the two iiles form a chain; between which, to E. S. E. and the ifle of St. Elizabeth to W. N. W. is the channel through which you advance into the flraits. This channel runs N, N. E. and S. S. W. I do not think it prafticable to fail on the fouth fide of the ifles of St. Barthelemi and of Lions, nor between the ifle of Elizabeth and the main land. ^ + From the end of the fecond gut, to the N. E. point of the ifle of Elizabeth, the diftance is about four leagues. Elizabeth ifland extends S. S. VV. and N. N. E. for J ■<; A VOYAGE ROUND THE WOULD. I 51 The tide in this channel fets to the fouthward, and feemed very ftrong to us. We came near the (liore of the main-land, below Cape Noir; here the coaft begins to be covered with woods ; and its appearance from hence is very pleafant. It runs fouthward ; and the tides here are not fo (Irong as in the above place. It blew very frefh and fqually, till fix o'clock in the evening; when it became calm and moderaie. We failed along the coaft, at about a league's diftance, the weather being clear and ferene ; flattering ourfelves to be able to double Cape Round during night; and then to have, in cafe of bad weather, Port Famine to leeward. But thcfe projedls were fruftrated j for, at half an hour after mid-night, the wind fliifted all at once to S. W» the coaft became foggy ; the continual and violent fqualls brought rain and hail with theni ; and, in fhort, the weather foon became as foul, as it had been fair the mo- „ , i i., , Bad weather, mcnt before. Suchisthenatureof this climate; the changes Jl^feif^''*' of weather are fo fudden and frequent, that it is impoflible to forefee their quick and dangerous revolutions. Our main-fail having been fplit, when in the brails, we were forced to ply to windward^ under our fore-fail, for the length of about three lejrguies and a half. It is neceffary to keep this fliorc onboard, iapaffing through the above channel. From the S. W. point of Elizabeth ifland, to Cape Noir, thp diftance is not above a league J. ,i ai, .. •.noj sk.t.u ).,.(» ;. X This Cape Noir is not mentioned in M. de B's. map; but fhould be carefully diftin- guifhed from Cafe Noir, or Cabo Negro, feen by lord Aiifon upon Terra del Vuego, in about 54» S. lat. F. 6 main> ml H f; (f 152 w 1 p-i If-/'- M ^ Wc anchor in Bay Du- elos. Dcfcription of this bay. I ! . I A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. main-flay -fail, and clofe-reefed top-fails, endeavouring to double Point St. Anne, and to take fhelter in Port Famine. This required our gaining a league to wind- ward ; which we could never eflfe<5l. As our tacks were lliort, and b'^ing obliged to wear, a flrong current was carrying us into a great inlet in Terra del Fuegoj wc loll three leagues in nine hours on this manoeuvre, and were obliged to go along the coaft in fearch of anchor- age to Icevvard. We ranged along it, and kept found- ing continually ; and, about eleven o'clock in the morn- ing, wc anchored a mile offlhore, in eight fathom and a half, oozy fand, in a bay, which I named Bay Du- clos * } from the name of M. Duclos Guyor, a captain of a fire-fliip, who was the next in command after me on this voyage; and whofe knowledge and experience have been of very great ufe to me. ^jy^ ^,.,^ ..r., ,,.. This bay is open to the eaftward, and its depth is very inconliderable. Its northern point proje^^s more into the fea, than the fouthern one ; and they are about a league diflant from each other. The bottom is very good in the whole bay ; and there is every where fix or eight fathom of water, within a cable's length from the fliore. This is an excellent anchorage ; becaufe the * From Cape Noir the coaft runs S S. E. to the northern point of Bay Duclos j which is about fcvcn leagues diflant from it. Oppofite Bay Duclos, there is a prodigious inlet in Terra del Fuego ; which I fufpeft to be a channel, difemboguing eallward of Cape Horn. Cape Monmomh forms the north point of it, wcrtcrly !, A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. iS% ng ort kI- rcrc was wc and hor- Lincl- lorn- i and Du- ptain IV me riencc )th is imore ibout very fix or from Ife the IDucIos , Iwhich I anmouth :(\crly wcfterly winds, whidi prevail here, blow over the coaft, which is very high iri this part. Two Utile rivers dif- charge themfelves into the bay ; the water is brackifli at their mouth, but very good five hundred yards a- bove it. A kind of meadow lies along the landing, place, which is fandy. The woods rife behind it in form of an amphitheatre ; but the whole country fcems entirely without animals. We have gone through a great track of it, without finding more than two or three fnipes, fome teals, ducks, and buftards in very fmall number: we have likewife perceived fome perro- keets*', the latter are not afraid of the cold weather. At the mouth of the moft foutherly river, we found feven huts, made of branches of trees, twifted together, in form of an oven ; they appeared to have been lately built, and were full of calcined (hells, mufcles, and lim- pets. We went up a confiderablc way in thJs river, and Newobfer- faw fome marks of meii. Whilft we were on fliore, Sei?***"** the tide rofe one foot, and the flood accordingly came from eaft, contrary to the obfervatioiis we had made after doubling Cape Virgin j having ever firicc ften the water rife when the tide went out of the ftraits. But it feeims to me, after feveral obfervations, that having paflfed the guts, or narrows, the tides ceafe to be regular in all that part of the firaits, which runs .nqril^, aad fouth. •M * PtrruchtSy Tp:o\)dih]y fea-parroUf or auks. F, •j.uk. r, i> rr^ X The 1^4 I . Nautical ob- fervaMont. .•1. 'j;* A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. The number of channels, which divide Terra del Fuego in this part, feem neceflarily to caufe a great irregula- rity in the motion of the water. During the two days which we paflbd in this anchoring- place, the thermome- ter varied from eight to five degrees. On the 1 5thj at noon, we obferved 53" 20' of latitude there; and that day we employed our people in cutting wood ; the calm not perniitting us then to fet fail. ;^ sie iirifii*/ z.^. i- Towards night the clouds feemed to go to weftward^ and announced us a favourable wind. We hove a-peek upon our anchor ; and, aftually, on the i6th, at four o'clock in the morning, the breeze blowing from the -point whence we expe(5ted it, we fet (ail. The fky, in- deed, was cloudy ; and, as is ufual in thefe parts, the •eaft and north-eaft winds, accompanied with fog and rain. We palled Point &t. Anne * and Cape Round f. The former is a table-land, of a middling height ; and covers a deep bay, which is both fafe and convenient for anchoring. It is that bay, which, on account of the unhappy fate of the colony of Philippe ville, e£tabli(hed by the prefufnptuous Sarmiento, has got the name of Port Famine, >il !> 1*1 * Wc anchored at three o'clock in the entrance of tho Wennchor bay, in twenty eight fathom of water j and we immc- guiuviiic. diately fent our tow-lines on Ihore, in order to warp in- to the bottom of the bay. The Etoile having let go her off anchor in too great a depth of water, drove upon the Ifle of the Obfervatory -, and before llie could haul-tight the warps which flie had fent a-Qiore, to ftcady her, her ilern came within a few feet of this little ifle, though (lie had ftill thirty fathom of water. The N. E. /ide of this ifle is not fo fl.eep. We fpent the reft of the day in moor* ing, with the head towards the offing, having one an- chor a-head in twenty-three fathom oozy fand ; a kedge- anchor a-ftern, almoft clofe to the iliorc -, and two hawfers faftened to the trees on the larboard-fide ; and two on board the Etoile, which was moored as we were. Near the rivulet we found two huts, made of branches, which feemed to have been abandoned long ago. In 1765! got one of bark conftrutSted there, in which I left fome prefents for the Indians, which chance might condu(!ft thither ; and at the top of it I placed a white flag : we found the hut deftroyed j the flag, with the prefents, be- in er carried off. v On the I 8th, in the morning, I eftabliflied a camp on fliore, in order to guard the workmen, and the va- 8 '' • -'-I - J* ' • rious I I ■' 1 1^0 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. PI .' i- , 1' 1 n 1^1' 1 • 'ti II. rious efFe(5ls which we landed ; we likewife fent all our caflcs on (hore, to refit them and prepare them with ful- phur ; we made i>'^ols of water for the ufc of thofe who were employed in wafliing, and hauled our long-boat a-fliore, becaufe fhe wanted a repair. We pafled the remaind^'ir of December in this bay, where we provided ourfelves with wood j and even with planks at our eafe. Every thing facilitated this work: the roads were ready made through the woods j and there were more trees cut down than we wanted, which was the work of the Eagle'A crew in 1765, Here we likewife heeled fhip, boot-topped and mounted eighteen guns. The Etoile had the good fortune to flop her leak j which, fince her departure from Montevideo, was grown as confiderable as before her repair at the Encenada. By bringing her by the ftern, and taking off part of the flieathing forward, it appeared that the water entered at the fcarfing of her ftern. This was remedied ; and it was during the whole voyage, a great comfort to the crew of that veflel, who were almoft worn out by the continual exercife of pumping. obfervations M. Vcrron, in the firft days, brought his inftrunients and meteoro- upon the IQe of the Obfcrvatory ; but paft moft of his logical, nights there in vain. The fky of this country, which is very bad for aftronomers, prevented his making any obfervation for the longitude j he could only deier- " ' mine A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. i6i fents I his nch ny ler- une mine by three obfervations with the quadrant, that the foMth latitude of the lit:le ifle is 53° 50 2s'\ He ha&, likewife determined the flowing of the tide in the en- trance to the bay, at 00'' 59'. The water never rofc here above ten feet. During our ftay here the thermo- meter was generally between 8** and 9", it fell once to S°, and the highefl. it ever rofe to was 12 v°. The fun then appeared without clouds, and its rays, which are but little known here, melted part of the fnow that lay on the mountains of the continent. M, de Commer^on, accompanied by the prince of Naflau, profited of fuch days for botanizing. He had obftacles of every kind to furmount, yet this wild foil had the merit of being new to him, and the firaits of Magalhaens have filled hii> herbals with a great number of unknown and intereft- ing plants. We were not fo fuccefsful in hunting and Dcfcnption fiQiing, by which we never got any thing, and the only of the Ss. quadruped we faw here^ is a fox, almoft like an Euro- pean one, which was killed amidil the workmen. • * "^^" We likewife made feveral attempts to furvey the neighbouring coafts of the continent, and of Terra del Fuego; the firft was fruitlcfs. I fct out on the 2 2d at three o'clock in the morning with MeiT! de Bournand and du Bouchage, intending to go as far as Cape Holland, and to vifit the harbours that might be found on thit part of the coaft. When we fet out it was calm and Y very I' J" i"3 It! I! l62 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLDj, ^'i h-^ n u very fine weather. An hour afterwards, a light breeze- at N. W. fprung up, but immediately after, the wind fhifted to S. W. and blew very frefli. We ftrove againfl it for three hours together, under the lee of the fliore, arvd with fome difficulty got into the mouth of a little liver, which falls into a fandy creek, covered by the caftern head of Cape Forward. We put in here, hoping that the foul weather would not laft long. This hope ferved only to wet us thoroughly by the rain, and ta make us quite chilled with cold, Wc made us a hut of branches of trees in the woods, in order to pafs the night there a little more under iTielter. Thefe huts ferve as psilaces to the natives of thefe climates; but we had not yet learnt their cuftom of living in them. The cold and wet drove us from our lodgin^g, and we were obliged to have rccourfc to a great fire, which we took care to keep up, endeavouring to fhelter us againfl; the rain, by fpreading the fail over u* \/hiGh belonged to our little boat. The night wa& dreadful, wind and rain encrealed, and we could do nothing elfe but return at break of day. We arrived on board our frigate at eight of the clock in the raOrningj happy to have been able to take ihelter there ; for the weather became fa much worfe foon after, that we could not have thought of coming back again i During two days there was a real tcmpeft, and the mountains were all covered with fnow A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. I 6 cna del •fnow again. However, this was the very middle of fummer, antd the fun was neai: eighteen hour9 above the horizon, -j^t^ ju-.j ■ i:>v /;jif? luu ji ,- ,j lioiui) Some days after I undertook a new courfc, more fuc- D^rcoyery of ' uver.il pints cefsfully, for viliting part of Terra del Tuego, and to °"'^'^' look for a port there, oppofite Cape Forward ; 1 then intended to crofs the llraits to Cape Holland, and to view the coafls from thence till we came to Bay I'"ran9oifc, which was what we could not do on our full aitempr. I armed the long boat of the R^udeufe, and the Etoile's barge, with fwivel guns and mufkets, and on the lyih, at four o'clock in the morning, I went from on board with MefTrs. de Bournand, d'Oraifon, and liie prince of Naffau. We fei fail at the w^eft point of Bay Fran^oife, in order to crofs the flraiis to Terra del ^uego, where we larded about ten o'clock, at the mouth of a little river, in a fandy creek, which is inconvenient even for boats. However, in a cafe of neccfTity, the boats might go up the river at high water, where they would fmd fhelter. We dined on its banks, in apleafant wood, under the lliade of which were feveral huts of the fa- vages. From this flatioo, the wcilern point of Bay Fran^oife bore N. W. by W. I W. and we reckoned our- felves five leagues diftant from it. ,,r^ r; <»<.,„ .f»,,^. After dinrier we proceeded by rowin^; along the coaH; of Terra del Fuego j it did not blow much from the Y 2 wefl- r: ^ 1 ') ■ i 1^4 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. W favages. weftward, but there was a hollow fea. We eroded a great inlet, of which we could not fee the end. Its entrance, which is about two leagues v;ide, is barred in the middle by a very high ifland. The great number of whales which we faw in this part, and the great rolling fea, inclined us to imagine that this might- well be a flrait leading into the fea pretty near Gape Horn. Being almoft come to the other fide, we faw feveral; fires appear, and become extincH: ; afterwards they re- Meeting with mained lighted, and we diflinguifhed fome favages upon the low point of a bay, where I intended to touch. We went immediately to their fires, and I knew again the fame troop of favages which I had already feen on my firft voyage in the ftraits. We then called them Pecheraisy becaufe that was the firft word which they pronounced when they came to us, and which they re- peated to us jnceflantlyi as the Patagonians did their Jloawa, For this reafon we gave them that name again this time. I fhall here^ iter have an opportunity to de- fcribe thefe inhabitants of the wooded parts of the ftrait. The day being upon the decline, we could not now ftay long with them. They were in number about forty, men, women, and children ; and they had ten or a dozen canoes in a neighbouring creek. We left them in order to crofs the bay, and enter into an inlet, which, the night coming on, prevented us from executing. Wie pafled' A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. i6s tion. palled the night on the banks of a pretty confiderable river, where we made a great fire, and where the fails of our boats, which were pretty large, ferved us as tents ; the weather was very fine, although a little coldv The next morning we faw that this inlet was a^lually ^/L^^l^JJ* a port, and we took the foundings of it, and of the bay. The anchorage is very good in the bay, from forty to itsdcfcrip- twelve fathoms, bottom of fand, fmall gravel and lliells. It (belters you againft all dangerous winds. Its eailerly point may be known by a very large cape, which we called the Dome. To the weftward is a little ifle, between which and the Ihore, no fliip can go out of the bay ; you come into the port by a very narrow pafs, and in it you find ten, eight, fix, five, and four fathor-is, oozy bottom ;. you muft keep in the middle, or rather come nearer the eaft fide, where the greateft depth is. The beauty of this anchoring place determined us to give u the name of bay gnd port of BeauhaJjUn. If a fhip waits for a fair wind, fhe need anchor only in the bay* If fhe wants to wood and water, or even careen, no properer place for thefe operations can be thought of than the port oi BeaubaJ/in. I left here the chevalier de Bournand, who com- manded the long boat, in order to take down as mi» BUiely as poffible all the information relative to this iin- 6. portanc; v4'. fa'*' \.- f . ■A i66 ! 1 '■ ■' ( , I f ■n. Bay de la Cormcran- diere. m A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. portant place, and then to return to the fliips. For my parr, I went on board the Ecoile's barge with Mr. Landais, one of the officers of that ftore-fhip, who com- manded her, and I continued my furvey. \Vc pro- ceeded to the weftward, and firfl: viewed an ifland, round which we went, and found that a fliip may anchor all round it, in twenty-five, twenty-one, and eighteen fa- thoms, fand and fmall gravel. On this ifle there were feme f,ivages fifliing. As v/e went along the coaft, wc readied a bay before fun-fet, which affords excellent anchorage for three or four (hips. I named it bay de la Cormorandicre, on account of an apparent rock, which is about a mile to E. S. E. of it. At the entrance of the bay wc had fifteen fathoms of water, and in the anchor- ing place eight or nine ; here we pailed the night. On the 29th at day break we left bay de la Cormoroji- diercy and went to the weftward by the affiftance of a very ftrong tide. We paffed between two ifles of un- equal fize, which I named the two Sifters (les deux Soeurs). They bear N. N. E. and S. S. W. wi^h the middle of Cape Forward, from which they are about three leagues diftant. A little farther we gave the name of Sugar- loaf (?ain de fucre) to a mountain of this fhape, which is very eafy to be diftinguiflied, and bears N. N. E. and S. S. W. with the fouthern point of the fame cape ; and about five leagues from the Cormorandiere we dif- 2 covered A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 167 covered a fine bay, with an amazing fine port at the bottom of it ; a remarkable water-fall in the interior part of the port, determined mc to call them Bay and Port of the caf- of the Cafcack. The middle of this bay bears N. E. and S. W. with Cape Forward, The fafe and convenient anchorage, and the facility jf taking in wood and water, fhew that tlicrc is nothiLg wanting in it. The cafcade is formcfl by the waters of a little river, Dofcription of ihc coun> which runs between fevcral high mountains ; and its fall try. meafures about fifty or fixty toifes, (/. e. 300 or 360 feet French meafure) : I have gone to the top of it. The land is here and there covered with thickets, and ha« fome little plains of a fhort fpungy mofe j I have here . been in fearch of veftiges of men, but found none, for the favages of this part feldom or never quit the fea-fhores, where they get their fubfiftence. Upon the whole, all t jat part of Terra del Fuego, reckoning from oppofite Elizabeth ifland, feems to me, to be a mere clufler of great, unequal, high and mountainous iflands, whofe tops are covered with eternal fnow. I make no doubt but there are many channels between them into the fea. The trees and the plants are the fame here as " on the coaft of Patagonia ; and, the trees excepted, the country much refeinbles the Malouines. I here add a particular chart which I have made Uiefuinefsof the three of this interefting part of. the coall of. Terra del Fuego. po^ts bcfor« lit l;J; m % % E ' m !■■,;'■ Till- defcribed. . 1»• • - We pafled a very difagreeable night in Port Cafcade. It was very cold, and rained without intermiffion. The* rain continued throughout almoft the whole 30th -day of Decfember. At five o'clock in the morning we went out of the port, and failed acrofs the ftrait with a high wind and a great fea, confidering the little vcflel we were in. We approached the coaft nearly at an equal diftance between Cape Holland and Cape Forward. It was not now in «!' A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. i6^ in queftion to view ihc coaft, being happy enough to run along it before the wind, and being very attentive to the violent fqualls, which forced us to have the ha- liards and (heets always in hand. A falfe movement of the helm was even very near overfetting the boat, as we were crofling Bay Fran9oife. At laft I arrived on uoard the frigate, about ten o'clock in the morning. During my abfence, M. Duclos Guyot had taken on Ijoard what we had on (hore, and made every thing ready for weighing j accordingly, we began to unmoor in the afternoon. „v. ,.,. . The 31ft of December at four of the clock in the Departure from Bou- mornmg^we weighed, and at fix o'clock we left the bay, gainvjiieBay. being towed by our boats. It was calm ; at feven a light breeze fprung up at N. E. which became more frefli in the day ; the weather was clear till noon, when it became foggy and rainy. At half an hour pad eleven, being in the middle of the ftrait*, we dif- covered, and fet the Cafcadc bearing S. E. the Sugar Loaf S. E. by E. j ^5. Cape Forward f E. by N. Cape Hol- land X W. N. W. 1 W. From noon till fix in the even- i' IroHvii.- Mi'CHi^ifo'iJi*.' .Avj,^.,i.,4,ws* iiiU. • A mi-canal. t From the ifle of the Obfervatory, Cape Forward is about fix leagues difttmt, and the coaft runs nearly W. S. W. The ftrait is there between three and four leagues broad. X In the fpace of about five leagues, which are between Cape Fonvard and Cape Holland, there are two other capes, and three creeks, of little depth. I know of no anchorage there. The breadth of the flraits varies from three to four leagues. ill' !i,- 1 I Ulg 17© k'i * p.- - '^ ■^u IT ii:l I Anchorage in Forte(cue Hay. 1768. January. Account of the cbllacles we met with. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. ing we doubled Cape Holland. It blew a light breeze, which abating in the evening, and the fky being co- vered, I refolved to anchor in the road of Port Ga- lant, where vie anchored in fixtecn fathoms, coarfe gravel, fand and fmall coral j Cape Galant bearing S. W. 3* W *. We had foon reafon to congratulate ourfelvcs on being in fafety j for, during the night, it rained con- tinually, and blew hard at S. W. We began the year 1768 in this bay, called Bay Fortefcue, at the bottom of which is Port Galant t« The plan of the bay and port is very exad in M. de Gennes. We have had too much leifure to coiif*rm it, having been confined there for three weeks together^ by fuch weather as one cannot form any idea of, from the word winter at Paris. It is but juft to let the reader partake in fome meafure of the difagreeable circumftanccs on thefe unlucky days, by giving the fkeich of our ftay in this place. ^ >, ^ , ^^^ ^^j^j. * Cape tionanrt and Cape Galaht bear among thel-nfclves E. i* S. and W. 2" N. ami die diftance is about «ight leagues. Between thefe two capes there is one, lefs projecting, called Cape Coventry. They likewife place fevcral bays there, of whidi vvt "have only fccn Biy Verte, or GrcCn Bay, or Bay De Cordes, which hcs been vifited by land. It is great and deep, but there fecrn to be fcveral fhallows in it. t Bay Fortefcue is about two miles broad from one point to the other, and not quite fo deep, from its entrance, till to a peninfv'?«, which, coming from the weft- fide of the bay, extends E. S. E. and covers a port, well flickered from all the winds. This is Port Galant, which is a mile deep towards the W.'N. W. Its breadth is from four hundred to five hundred yards. There is a river at the bottom of the port, and two more on the N. E. fide. In the middle of the port there is four or five fathoms of water, bottom of ooze and fliclls. ■!■ i - i' { ;• ;• My A VOYAGE ROUND THE \VORLD.> 171 • My firft care was to fend out people 10 view the coaft as far as Bay Elizabeth^ and the i(les with which, the ftraits of Magalhaens are full in this part. From our anchoring-place we perceived two of ihefe ifles, which Narborough * calls Charles and Monmouth. Tliofe which are farther off he calls the Royal Ifles, and the „,, wcftermoft of all, he names Rupert Ifland. The weft winds preventing us from making fail, we moored with a llream-anchor. The rain did not keep our people from going on (hore, where they found vcftigcg veftiges we found of the of the paffagc and touching of Englilh (hips \ viz. fome p"""?!? j[. wood, lately fawed and cut down ; fome fpicC'laurel trees f , lately llripped of their bark ; a label of wood, fuch as in marine arfenals, are generally put upon pieces of cloth, &c. on which wc very diftindlly read the words, Chatham, March 1766; they likcwife found upon feveral trees, initial letters and names, with the date of 1767. ^'"^[t -/rft M. Verron, who had got all his inftruments carried Afironomicai upon the peninfula that forms the harbour, made an obfervaiions. obfervation there at noon, with a quadrant ; and found 5^ J 40' 41^^ S. lat. . This obfervation, and the bearings • Sir John- Narborough. F. <•■■ k\ >, vj Wr ,>» .;ii.Tin . «; mi>:K .am ,\ .«,,.,; •f Laurier-eficcy {■piccAzuxeX is probably the famous /77/;/^r/-5flr>f, mentioned by Sir John Narborough, and afterwards well drawn and dofcribcd by Sir Hans Slbane, in,his Uidoiy of Jamaica, vol. ii. p. 87.. t. 19. f. 2. and Plukcnet. Al- magfft. 89. t. 81. f. I. and t. 160. f 7. F. , , . 7, 2 of I I II l.'ii I "J' ' ' I.I Tlicy live chiefly on fliell-fifli ; however, they have like- wife dogs, and noofes, or fpringes, made of whale- bone. 1 have obferved, that they had all of them bad teeth ; and, I believe, we mufl attribute that to their cuftom of eatiqg the fhell-fifli boiling hot, though half raw. . • Upon the whole, they feem to be good people j but they are fo weak, that one is almoft tempted to think the worfe of them on that account. We thought we ob- ferved that they were fuperflitious and believed in evil genii ; and, among them, the fameperfons, who conciliate the influence of thofefpirits, are their phylicians and priefls. Of all the favages I ever faw, the Pecherais are thofc who are moft deprived of every convenience ; they are exa(5lly, in what may be called, a (late of nature j and, indeed, if any pity is due to the fate of a man, who is his own mafler, has no duties or bufinefs to attend, is content with what he has, becaufe he knows no bet ter, 1 Ihould pity thefe men ; who, befides being de- prived of what renders life convenient, muft fuffer the extreme roughnefs of the moft dreadful climate in the world. Thefe Pecherais, likewife, are the leaft nume- rous fociety of men I have met with in any part of the world ; however, as will appear in the fequel, there are quacks among them : but as foon as more than one fa- mily is together, (by family, I underiland father, mo- ,1 .*..i ther, • I I' t! n.. the are fa- lo- ler, A VdYA'<^fe "llOtJNb THE WORLD. ther, and children) their interefts become complicated, and the individuals want to govern, either by force or by impofture. The name of family then changes into that of fociety ; and though it were eftabliihed amidft the woods, and compofed only of coufins-german, a fkilful obferver would there dhcover the origin of all the vices, to which men, coUecfted into whole nations, have, by growing more civilized, given names ; vices that caufed the origin, progrefs, and ruin of the greateft em- pires. Hence it follows, by the fame principle, that in civilized focieties, fome virtues fpring up, of which thofe who border on a ftate of nature are not fuf- ceptible. • «<. ff*l>v»'ijo:- ivv-' u\ 0!>viup»j iv.):n ju, ^ . The 7 th and 8ih the weather was fo bad, that we • could not by any means go from on board •, in the nighc we drove, and were obliged to let go our flieet anchor. At forae intervals the fnow lay four inches deep on the deck ; and, at day-break, we faw that all the ground was covered with it, except the flat lands, the wetnefs of which melted the fnow. The thermometer was about 5** and 4°; but fell to two degrees below the freezing-point. The weather was bad on the ninth in the afternoon. The Pecherais fet out in order to come on board us. They ' had even fpent much time at their toilet; I mean, they had ' painted their bodies all over, with red and white fpots : ' but feeing our boats go from the (hips, towards their A a huts. 177 'i I *! 178 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORtD, w; I 1 'i Unlucky ac- cident, which befalls one them. huts, they followed them ; but one p^riagua came on board the Etoile. She flayed but a fliort time there, and joined the others ; who were very much the friends of our people. The women were, however, all retired into one hut j and the favages feemed uncafy, whenever one oi our men attempted to go in. They invited them rather to come into the other huts, where they prefcnted our gentlemen with mufcles, which they fucked before they gave them away. They got fome little prefents, which they gladly accepted. They fung, danced, and appeared more gay, than one might expeft from fa- vages, whofe outward behaviour is commonly ferious. Their joy was but .of very Ihort duration. One of of theiF children, about twelve years old, the only one in the whole troop whole figure engaged our attention^ vvas all at once feized with fpitting of blood, and violent convullioos. The poor crea-ti^re had been on board the Eiodie, where tlie people h?^ given him bits of glafs, not forefeeing ike unhappy effe<5t, which this prefent might have, Thefe favages have a cuftom of putting pieces of tak into their throat and noftrils. Perhaps > their fuper ft ition combines fome powers with thia kind of talifman ; or, perhaps, they look on it as a pre- fervative againft Ibme fitknefs they are fubje<^ to. The child, pi-obably, had made the fame ufe of this glafs. His lips, gums, and p^ilate, weie cut in feveyal plaees, and he bled continually. ^ / A VOITAGtEHOUND THE WORLD. 179 t^ - This accident fpread conftcrnation and xniftrufl amongft therti, They certainly fufpcded us of fome bad acftion j for the firft thing their juggler did, was to ilrip the child immediately of a linen jacket, which had been given him. He wanted to return it to the French j and upon their refusing it, he threw it at their feet. However, another favage, who, doubtlcfs, loved clothes more than he feared enchantments, took it up imme- diatelv, '"^^ ->jj''fO* •* »'» ^ »/i*i" * '-.Tir»., .^,^, ../ ....... .. 1, The juggler firft laid the child down U; c;i his back, in one of the huts ; and, kneeling down between his legs, he bent himfelf tipon him, and with his head and hands prefTed the child's belly as much as he could, cry- ing out continually, without our being able to diftin- guifli any articulate founds in his cries. From time to time he got up, and feeming to hold the difeafe in his joined hands, he opened them all at once into the air, blowing as if he wanted to drive away fomc evil fpirit. During this ceremony, an old woman in tears, howled in the fick child's ears, enotigh t6 mike him deaf. This poor wretch feemed to fuffer as much from the remedy, as from the hurt he had received. The juggler gave him fome refpite, and went to fetch his habit of cere- mony ; after which, having his hair powdered, and his head adorned with two white wings, like thofe on Mercury's cap, he began his rites again, with more con- Aa 2 ";mi.u. , >,.'(! fidence, I'' 'i i8o A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. ,, ;■ 1, ; I, < is fidcncc, but 'vith no better fuccefs. The chil4. then ap- pearing to be worfc, our chaplain adipiniftred baptifm to ,him by ftealth. ,,. .Aiiiv^^u^f-ntif-jR nii ktl rc'jU nn'jV viilt , The officers returned on board, and toH mc what had happened on fhore. I went thither immediately with M. de la Porte, our furgeon, who brought fome milk and gruel with him. When we arrived, the patient was out of the hut; the juggler, who had. now got a companion in the fame drefs, had begun again with his his operation on the belly, thighs, and back of the child. It was a pity to fee them torment the poor creature, who fuiFered without complaining. His body was already bruiibd all over; and the docHiors Hill cour tinued to apply tlieir barbarous remedy, with abundance of conjurations. The grief of the parents, their tears, the part which the whole troop took in this accident, and which broke out in the moft expreffive figns, afford- ed us a moll aire(5ling fcene. The fa v ages certainly per- ceived that we partook of their diftrefs ; at lead they feemcd to be Iqfs miftruftful. They fuffered us to come near the patient ;, and our furgeon examined his bloody mouth, which his father and another Pecherais fucked alternately. We had much trouble to perfuade them to ufe milk ; we were obliged ta tafte it before them fe- veral times ; and, notwithftanding the invincible objec- tion of their jugglers, the father at laft refolved to let his foa A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. fon drink it ; he even accepted a pot-full of gruel. The jugglers were jealous of our furgeon ; whom, however, they feemed at laft to acknowledge as an able juggler. They even opened for him a leather bag, which they always wear hanging by their fide ; and which contains their feathered cap, fome white powder, fome talc, and other inftruments of their art ; but he had hardly look- ed into it, when they (hut it again. We likewife ob- ferved, that whilft one of the jugglers was conjuring the diftemper of the patient, the other feemed to be bu- fied folely in preventing, by his enchantments, the ef- fedl of the bad luck, which they fufpecTicd wc had brought upon them. '^^^* ^'' *'"•' • - '" "'" ■""''- ^ —-*• • . ''We returned on board, towards night, and the child feemed to fufFer lefs ; however, he was plagued with almofl; continual puking, which gave us room to fear that fome glafs was got down into his ftomach. We had afterwards fufficient reafon to believe our conje(5turcs had been true ; for about two o'clock in the morning, we on board heard repeated howls ; and, at break of day, though the weather was very dreadful, the favages went off. They, doubtlefs, fled from a place defiled by death, and by unlucky flrpngers, who they thought were come merely to deftroy them. They were not able to double the weftermoft point of the bay : iii a more moderate interval they fet fail again; a violent fquall . ' ! carried i8i i i i '.'■■ f: 1 1. 1 is l! ■ ^HK) ■HI II Btj' 11 Hpl llfl lif' ^MTm. . > ] ufalt'*'-' Vi^l ■'"1 RH' .■J ft ' ;■■; :' 1. M 'i I , III 'III iBz Conilmintion of bad wea- ther. Danger which the fii2ate is ex- pofed to. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. carried them out into the ofTing. and difpcrfed their feeble vefTels. How defirous they were of getting away from us ! They left one of their periaguas, which want- ed a repair on the (hore, Satis cjl gmttm effugijjc ncfandam. They are gone away, confidcring us as mifchievous be- ings : but who would not pardon their rcfentment on this occafion? and, indeed, how great is the lofsof a youth, who has cfcapcd from all the dangers of childhood, to a body of men fo very inconfiderable in number ! The wind blew eaft with great violence, and almofl without intermiflion, till the i 3 th, when the weather was mild enough in day-time; and we had even con- ceived hopes of weighing in the afternoon. The night between the i 3th and 14th was calm. At half an hour pad two in the morning we had unmoored, and hove a- peak. At fix o'clock we were obliged to moor again, and tlie day was dreadful. The i^th, the fun (hone almofl the whole day ; but the wind was too ftrong for us to leave the harbour. The i6ih, in the morning, it was almoft a calm ; then came a breeze from the north, and we weighed, with the tide in our favour: it was then ebbing, and fet to the weftward. The winds foon fhifted to \V. and W. S. W. and we could never gain the Ifle Rupert, with the favourable tide. The frigate failed very ill ; drove to leeward beyond meafure; and the Etoile had an in- credible A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. •83 for rove in- ible credible advantag2 over us. We plycd all day between Rupert ifland, and a head-land of the continent, which we called the Point of the PafTage, in order to wait for the ebb -, with which I hoped either to gain the an- choring-place of Bay Dauphine, upon the ifle of Louis le Grand, or that of Elizabeth bay*. But as we loft ground by plying, I fent a boat to found to the S. E. of Rupert's- ifland, intending to anchor there, till the tide became favourable. Th^. / made fignal of an anchor- ing-place, and came to a grapnel there j but we were already too much fallen to leeward of it. We made one board in-ftiare, to endeavour to gain it on the other tack i the frigate miflcd ftays twice ; and it became ne- ceiTary to wear j but at the very moment when, by the manoeuvres, and by the help of our boats, Hie began to wear, the force of the tide made her come to the wind again ; a ftrong current had already carried us within half a cable's length of the fliore. We let go our an- chor in eight fathom : the anchor, falling upon rocks, came home, and our proximity to the fliore did not al- • From Cape Galant to Bay Elizabeth, the coaft runs nearly W. N. VV. and the diftance from the one to the other, is about lour leagues. In this fpace there is no anchoring-place on the main-land. The depth is too great, even clofc to the fliore. Bay Elizabeth is open to the S. W. its breadth between the poit'ts is three quarters of a league ; and its depth pretty near the fome. The fliore in the bottom of the bay is fandy j and fo is the S. £. fliore. In its northern part lies a ledge, ftretching a good way to the offing. The good anchoring in this bay is nine £1- thom, bottom of fand, gravel, and coral ; and hae the following marks: the K. point of the bay bears S. S. E. f E. its VV, point, W. b. N. The E. point ot tlie iUe of Louis le Grand, S. S. W. | S. the ledge N. W. b. N. 6 low l;i H i !( I ■ 184 A VOYAG E ROUND THE WORLD. *1(f ' v| ffl I I, i Violent hur- ricane. low US to veer away cable. \Vc had now no more than three fathom and a half of water a-ftcrn ; and were only thrice the length of the Ihip from the (liorc, when u lit- tle breeze fprung up from thence, wc immediately filled our fails, and the frigate fell to leeward : all our boats, and thofe of the Etoile, which came to our afliftance, were a-hcad, towing her. We veered away our cable, upon which we had put a buoy; and near half of it was out, when it got foul between decks, and ftopt the frigate, which then ran the greateft danger. We cut the cable, and by the prompt execution of this ma- noeuvre, we faved the fliip. The breeze "^t length fre(h- ened ; and, after having made two or three unprofitable boards, I returned to Port Galant, where we anchored again in twenty fathom oozy bottom. Oiir boat?, which I left to weigh our anchor, returned towards night with it and the cable. Thus this appearance of fine weather fervf.d only to give us cruel alarms. * - The day following was more flormy than all the preceding ones. The wind raifcd a mountainous fea in the channel ; an J we often faw feveral waves run in contrary directions. The ftorm appeared to abate to- wards ten o'clock ; but at noon a clap of thunder, the only one we ever heard in this ftrait, was as it were the fignal at which the wind again began to blow with more violence than in the morning. We dragged our ■'■'' '' ^uoi^iuil ^!.cr. r.i anchor the in in to- be Ihe 1th lur lor A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. iSj anchor, and were obliged to let go our llicet- anchor, and ftrike our lower-yards and top-mafts. Notwith- (landing this, the (hrubs and plants were now in flower, and the trees afibrdcd a very brilliant verdure, which however was not fuflicicnt to difpcl that fadnefs which the repeated fight of this unlucky fpot had cad over us. The mod lively temper would be overcome in this dread- ful climate, which is lliunned by animals of every ele- ment, and where a handful of people lead a languid life, after having been rendered ftill more unfortunate by their intercourfe with us. . On the I 8th and i pth there were fome intervals be- Affenhn concerning tween the bad weather : we weighed our meet anchor, the channel of Sainte fquared our yards, and fet up our top-maftsj and I fent the ^^'^^ <*''"- Etoile's barge, which was in fo good a condition as to be able to go out in almoftany weather, to view the channel of Sainte Barbe. According to the extradl M. Frezier gives of the Journal of M. Marcant, who difcovered and pailed through it, this channel mull bear S. W. and S. W. by S. from Bay Elizabeth, The barge returned on the 20 th, and M. Landais, who commanded it, informed me, that having followed the track and marks taken notice of by M. Marcanr, he had not found the true mouth, but only a narrow channel, clofed by flioals of ice and the land, which it is the more dangerous to follow, as it has not a fingle good anchoring place, dnd as it is • • ' B b crofled l! ii < I ■ I f ; I "'I ^ i ^, l8i A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. croflfed in the mitldle by a fand covered with mufdcs. He then went all round the ifle of Louis k Grand to the fouthward, and re-entered the channel of Magalhaens, without having found any other. He only faw a fine bay on the coaft of Terra del Fucgo, which is certainly the fame with that which Beauchcfne calls Nativity Bay. Upon the whole, by going S. \V. and S. W. by S. from Bay Elizabeth, as Frczicr fays that Marcant did, you mud cut through the middle of the iile of Louis le Grand. , , This information gave me room to believe that the channel of Sainte Batbe was oppoilte the very bay where we now lay. From the top of the mountains which furround Port Galant, we had often difcovered fouthward of the i£les Charles and Monmouth, a vaft channel, full of litde iflands, and terminated by no land to the fouthwai'l ; but, as ac the fame tim« we perceived another inlei Southward of the iile of Louis le Grand, we took that for the channel of St. Barbe, as being more conformable to Marcant*s account. As foon as we were fure that this inlet was n& more than a deep bay» we no longer doubted that the channel of Sainte BMrbe was oppofite Port Galant, fouthward of Charlfis^ and Mopmoutb Iflands. Indeed, reading over again the pafTage in Frezier, at)d comparing it with his chart of the ftraic, we faw that Fi£zier,. according to . , v5 4 Mar- A VOYAGE ROUND TIIP, WORLD. Marcani's reporr, places Elizabeth Bay, from whence the latter fet fail, in onler to enter into his channel, about ten or twelve leagues from Cape Forward. Marcant therefore mull have mirtakcn Bay Dc Cordes for Bay Elizabeth, tlie former lying a«5lually eleven leagues from Cape Forward, being a league cailward of Fort Galant : fetiing fail from this bay, and (landing S. E. and S. E. by S. he came along the weftermoQ point of Charles and Monmouth ides, the whole of which he took for the ifle of Louis ie Grand ; an error into which every good navigator may eafily fall,unlefs he is well provided with good dir^eiftions^- and then he flood into the channel full of ifles, of which wc had a profpeft from the top of the mountains. vw • -iVfU jio^J : ;. ?-ii H ill Exceeding; violent fquiill. _ * »■■ 1 intended to have lent two barges into this channel which I firmly beUevc to be that of Saintc Barbe ; they \7ould have completely folved this problem, but the bad weather prevented their going out. - ^^ - ,«, ~ -f- • * The 2 J ft, 22d, and 23d, fqualls, fnow, and rain, were continual. In the night between the 2 ill and. 2 2d, there was a calm interval i it Teemed that the wind aflbrded us that momentary repofe, only in order to fall harder upon us afterwards. A dreadiul hurri^ cane came fuddenly from S. S. W. and blew with fuch fury as to adoniOi the oldeH feamen. Both our iliips had their anchors come home, and were obliged to let go their fheet-anchor, lower the lower yards, and hand the top-mads : our mizen was carried away in the brails. Happily this hurrican(. did not lad long. On the 24th the ftorra abated, we got calm weather and fun-fliine, ,and put ourfelvcs in a condition to proceed. Since our re*cntering Port Galant, we took feveral ton weight of ballaft, and altered our ilowage, endeavour- ing by this means to piake the frigate fail well again 9 and we fuccceded in part. Upon the whole, whenever it is ncceflary to navigate in the midil of currents, it will always be found very difficult to manage fuch long veflels as our frigates generally are. .. On the 25th, at pn)e, o'clock in the morning, we un- moored, and hove a peck j at three o'clock we weighed, and A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. ' i8j^ and were towed by our boats j the breeze was nortterly : at half paft five it fettled in the caft, and we fct all Jly Foruf. our top-gallant and ftudding-fails, which are very '^"''' fcldom made ufe of here. We kept the middle of the ftrait, following its windings, for which Narborough juftly calls it Crooked Reach. Between the Royal Ifles and the continent, the ilrait is about two leagues wide ; the channel between Rupert Ifle and Point PafTage, is not above a league broad ; then there is the breadth of a league and a half between the ifle of Louis le Grand and Bay Elizabeth, on the eafterly point of which, there is a ledge covered with fea weeds, extending a quarter of a league into the fea. ''^''"^^ .i.oajiii.-yj'hiU lijrli oxj From Bay Elizabeth the coaft runs W.N. W. for about Dcfcription of the Ilrait two leagues, till you come to the riVer which Narboroueh from t,apc calls Bachelor, and Beauchefne, du MafTacre; at the »?«" f"- mouth of which, is an anchoring'-place. This rivtv is eafiiy known; it comes from a deep valley; on the weft, it has a high mountain ; its wefterly point is low, wooded) and the coaft fandy. From the river Bachelor, to the entrance of the falfe ftrait or St. Jcrom's channel, I reckon three leagues, and the bearing is N. W. by W. The entrance of this channel fcems to be half a league broad, and in the bottom of it, the lands are feen elbling in to the northward. When you are oppofite the river du MafTacre, or Bachelor, you can only fee this w ifl;,'-«,i^ ra < I" ■'$ ' Wl ; ) ■:; : '■i '4 i , -1 ■•' *. ' • '/■' "J lyo A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. this falfe ftrait, and it is very eafy to take it for the true one, which happened even to us, becaufe the coaft then runs W. by S. and W. S. W. till Cape Sluade, which ftretching very far, fecms to clofe in with the wcfterly point of the ifle of Louis le Grand, and leave no out- let. Upon the whole, the fafeft way not to mifs the true channel, is to keep the coaft of Louis le Grand ifland on board, which may be done without any danger. The diftance of St. Jerom's channel to Cape Quade, is about four leagues, and this cape Ix'ars E. 9 N. and W. 9° S. with the wefterly point of the ifle of Louis le Grand, • -; ■*- ' -^ •- '^ •' .^ ' That ifland is about four leagues long, its north fide runs W, N, W. as far as Bay Dauphine, the depth of which, is about two miles, and the breadth at the entrance, half a league ; it then runs W. to its moft wefterly extremity, called Cape St. Louis. As, after finding out our error concerning the falfe ftrait, we run within a mile of the fliore of Louis le Grand ifland, we diftiniftly faw Port Phelippeaux, which ap- peared to be a very coRvenient and well fiiuatcd creek. At noon Cape Quade bore W. i 3** S. two leagues diftant, and Cape St. Louis, E. by N. about two leagues and a half oflp. The fair weather continued all day, and we bore away with all our fails fet. r-^u-i' ■■'N^' From A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. From Cape Quade the ftrait runs W. N. W. and N. W. by W. without any confiderable turnings, from which it has got the name of Long-Lane, or Long- Reach, (Longue Rue), The figure of Cape Quade is re- markable. It confifts of craggy rocks, of which, ihofc forming its higheft fummiis, do not look unlike an- cient ruins. As far as this cape, the coails are every where wooded, and the verdure of the trees foftens the afpedt of the frozen tops of the mountains. Having doubled Cape Quade, the nature of the country is quite altered. The ftrak is inclofed on both fides by barren rocks, on which there is no appearance of any foil. Their high fummits are always covered with fnow, and the deep vallies are filled with immenfe raaffes of ice, the colour of which bears the mark of antiquity. Nar- boTOugh, ftruck with this horrid afped, called this part, Dcfolation of the South,, nor can any thing more dread- ful be imagined, r rfrfTr/i -mr-:* tim urn ximhn^ •"^■/■^i- Being oppofite Cape Quade, the coali of Terra del Fuego feems terminated by an advanced cape, which is Cape Monday, and which I reckon is about fifteen leagues from Cape Quade. On the coafl of the main land, are three capes, to which v»re gave names. The firft, which from its figure, we called Cap Fendu^ or Split Cape, is about five leagues from Cape Quade, be- tween two fine bays, in which the anchorage is fafe, and I5>i I" I ft-' 192 ,ii !■ V Dangerous night. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. and the bottom as good as the flieltered fituation. The other two capes received the names of our fliips, Cap de I'Etoilc, three leagues weft of Cap Fendu, and Cap de la Boudeufe, in the fam'^ fituation, and about the fame diilunce from the Cape of the Etoile. All ihefe lands are high and fleep j both coafts appear clear, and feem to have good anchoring places, but happily, the wind being fair for our courle, did not give us time to found them. The ftrait in thiS part, called Longue Rue, is about two l'- agues broad ; it grows more narrow towards Cape Monday, where it is not above four miles broad. At nine o'clock in the evening, we were about three leagues E. by S. and E. S. E. oflf Cape Monday. It always blew very frefli from eaft, and the weather being fine, I refolved to continue my courfc during the night, making little fail. We handed the ftudding fails, and clofe-reefed the top-fails. Towards ten o'clock at night the weather became foggy, and the wind encreafed fo much, that we were obliged to haul our boats on board. It rained much, and the weather became fo black ai eleven, that we loft all fight of land. About half an hour after, reckoning myfelf a-breaft of Cape Monday, I made fignal to bring-to on the ftar-board tack, and thus we pafled the reft of the night, filling or backing, according as we reckoned ourfelves to be too near one or A VOYAGE ROUND THE WOR*LD. i9t It fay, md )ne or or the other fliore. This night we have been in one of the moft critical fituations during the whole voyage. At half an hour pad three, by the dawn of day, we had fight of the land, and I gave orders to fill. We Hood W. by N. till eight o'clock, and from eight till noon, between W. by N. and W. N. W. Tlie wind was always eaft, a little breeze, and very mifly. From time to jtime we faw fom-: pans of the coaft, but often we entirely loft fight of it. At lafl, at noon, we faw Cape Pillar, and the Evangclifts. The latter could only be feen from the maft-head. As we advanced towards the fide of Cape Pillar, we difcovercd, with joy, an immenfe horizon, no longer bounded by lands, and a great fea from the weft, which announced a vaft ocean to us. The wind did not continue E. it fliifted to W. S. W. and we ran N. W. till half -xn hour paft two, when Cape Viaory bore N. W. and Cape Pillar, S. 3° W. After pafling Cape Monday, the north coaft bends like a bow, and the ftrait opens to four, five, and fix leagues in breadth. I reckon about fixteen leagues from Cape Monday to Cape Pillar, which terminates the fouth coaft of the ftraits. The dire(5lion of the channel be- tween thefe two capes, is W. by N. The fouthern coaft is here high and fteep, the northern one is bordered with iflands and rocks, which make it dangerous to come near it : it is more prudent to keep the fouth coaft C C ' QJJ End of the ftrait, and defcription of that part. 1; il i(?4 '11 \t r.v Iff t, '■''■• ■ : w^:r ' ■*^ ):: A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. on board. I can fay no more concerning thcfe lafl: lands : I have hardly feen them, except at fome fliort intervals, wlien The fogs allowed our perceiving but fmall parts of them. The lafl land you fee upon the north coaft, is Cape Vidtory (Cap des FiclotresJ, which feems to be of middling height, as is Cape Defeado (DeJir^J, which is without the llraits, upon Terra del Fuego, about two leagues S. W. of Cape Pillar. The coaft between thefe two capes is bounded for near a league into the fea, by fevcral little ifles or breakers, known by the name of the Twelve Apoftles. j, .,. f,..^ Cape Pillar is a very high land, or rather a great mafs of rocks, which terminates in two great cliffs, formed in the fliape of towers, inclining to N. W. and making the extremity of the cape. About fix or fevea leagues N. W. of this cape, you fee four little ifles, called the Evangelifts ; three of them are low, the ^ fourth, which looks like a hay-ftack, is at fome diftance from the reft. They ly S. S. W. about four or five leagues off Cape Vidlory. In order to come out of tlie flrait, it is indifferent whether you leave them to the fouth or northward ; in order to go in, I would advife that they fliould be left to the northward. It is then likewife neceflary to range along the fouiliern coaft ; the northern one is bordered with little ifles, and feems cut by large bays, which might occafion dangerous , mif- li.-?;;v,: A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORID. 19s miftakes. From two o'clock in the afternoon, the winds were variable, between W. S. W. and W. N. W. and blew very frefli ; we plyed till fun-fetting, with all our fails fet, in order to double the Twelve Apoftles. We were for a long while afraid we Ihould not be able to do it, but be forced to pafs the night dill in the (Iraits, by which means we might have been obliged to (lay there more than one day. But about fix o'clock in the evening we gave over plying ; at feven, Cape Pillar was doubled, and at eight we were quite clear of the land, and advancing, all fails fet, and with a fine northerly wind, into the wefterly ocean. We then laid down the Departure bearings whence I took my departure, in 52° 50' S. lat. theftraitof / , - . Magalhacni. and 7 9* 9 W. long, from Pans. Thus, after conftant bad and contrary weather at Port Galant, for twenty-fix days together, thirty-fix hours of fair wind, fuch as we never expecHied, were fuflicient to bring us into the Pacific Ocean ; an example, ' which I believe is the only one, of a navigation with- out anchoring from Port Galant to the open fea. I reckon the whole length of the flrait, from Cape General ob- Virgin (Mary) to Cape Pillar, at about one hundred thirnaviga- and fourteen leagues. We employed fifty- two days to make them. I muft repeat here, that from Cape Virgin to Cape Noir, we have conftantly found the flood tide to fet to the eallward, and the ebb to the weftward^ C c 2 and if^6 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 5*1 ,1, lit; ;■:;■;; < ■■■I and that the tides are very (Irong ; that they are not by -much fo rapid from Cape Noir to Port Galant, and that their dirccSlion is irregular there j that laftly, from Port Galant to Cape Qnade, the tides are violent; that we have not found them very confiderahle from this cape to Cape Pillar, but that in all this part from Port Galant, the vvrater . is fubje(5t to the fume ^.aws which put them in motion from Cape Virgiii ; viz. that the flood runs tov/ards the eaflerly, and the ebb towards the wefterly fcas. I mull at the fame time mention, that this aflertion concerning the dirciflion of the tides in the ftrait of Magalhaens, is abfolutely contrary to what other navigators fay they have ob— ferved there on this head. However, it would not be well if every one gave another account. Upon the whole, how often have we regretted that we had not got the Journals of Narborough and Beauchefne, fuch as they came from their own hands, and that we were obliged to confult disfigured extracts of them : befidcs the aflet^lation of the authors of fuch extracfts, of curtailing every thing which is ufeful merely in navigation ; likewife, when fome details efcape them that have a relation to that fcience, their ignorance of the fea-phrafes makes them miftake neceflary and ufual cxprcflions for vi- cious words, and they replace them by abfurdities. All their tr A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 197 ired lors is ^me hat Ikes , vi-- I All rheir aim is to compile a work agreeable to the ef- feminate people of both fexes, and their labour ends in compofing a book that tires every body's patience, and is ul'eful to nobody*. ' '...,, . . ; ^ ' ;.w Not with (land in?:; the dilHcultics which v.c have Cosiciufioiu drawn from met with in our pafFage of the ftrait of Magal- '>«:'>ce. haens, I v^uld always advile to pre-c tliis coLnfe to that ' doubling Cape Horn, from die month of September to the end of March. During die other months of the year, when the nights are firceen, feventeen, and eighteen hours long, I would pafs through the open fea. The wind a-head, and a high fea, are not dangerous ; whereas, it is not fafe to be undei' a neceflity of failing blindfold between the Ihores. Certainly there will be fome obftacles in paffing the flraits, but this retardment is not en- tirely time loft. There is water, wood, and (hells in abundance, fometimes there are likewife very good fifli ; and I make no doubt but the fcurvy would make more havock amon.g a crew, who fliould * This compldlnt of car author is applicable on'^ to the French publieations, for it is well known that the Englifli voyages, chiefly when publiOieil by au- thority, are remarkable both for the fine language, and the {tn£\. keeping of the marine phrafes, fo ncceflary to make thefe publications ufeful to future na- vigators, and which arc undcrfiood by the greater part of this nation, fo mucli ufcd to the fea and its phrafcs, that ou- rcn'.anccs and plays are full of them, and tliat they have even a run in common life. F. com.e ■I' I i ff 4-1, ■" •-■ i i^jB AVOYAGEROUNDTHE WORLD. come into the South Seas by the way of Cape Horn, than among thofc who fliould enter the fame Seas tliiough the ftraits of Magaihaens : when we left it, wc had no fick perfon on board. it' i.r ■ 'h END OF THE FIRST PART. ^#' I 'i! I ■ - wi r;? -nir. f^ - :. t li)^ ^tn? ., i nt Ji'fV o y A G E ROUND THE 1 (5ti - ., ■ / .jl .// ■•?■ V w O R D. I PART the SECOND. From our entrance into the Weftern Sea, to our re^ turn to France. Et nos jam /^r//fl portat *'••'•' Omnibus errantes terris and fludibus sftas. CHAP. I. ViRo. Lib. I. ne run from the Jlraits of Magalhaens to our arrival at the IJi^ of Tahii difcoveries which precede it. pROM our entrance into the Wcftern Sea, after „„»,,. X fome days of variable winds, between S. W. and D.v.'£or N. W. we foon got S. and S. S. E. winds. I did not ex. ""I'/at'/'' pea to meet with thetn fo foon •. the weft winds gene- "" °""' rally laft to about 30-; and I intended to go to the ifle of Juan Fernandez, in order ,0 make good aaronomi- obfcrvations there. I intended by this means to fix a fure point ' il ■t 11 K 1 m f IS 200 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. i Mi, «;**«. ?,' ! Obfcrvation on the pofi- tion of ilic coalls of Chili. point of departure, in order to crofs this immcnfc ocean the extent of which is ilill'crcntly laid down, hy diilc- rcntly navigators. I'hc early meeting with the S. and S. E. winds, obliged me to lay alidc tliia fchemc of putting in there, which would have prolonged my voyage. , , ,,,-. ,, ^ - • During the firfl days, 1 flood as near weft as poflible ; as well to keep my wind, as to get olF from the coaft ; the bearings of which are not laid down with any cer- tainty in the charts; however, as the winds v^^erc then always in the weftern board, we Ihould have fallen in with the land, if the charts of Don George Juan, and Don Antonio dc Ulloa had been exacft. Thefe Spanifli officers have corre(5ted the old maps of North America* ; they make the coaft run N. E. and S. E. between Cape Corfo and Chiloe ; and that upon conjcflures, which they have certainly thought well-founded. This cor- redion happily defcrves another; it was not a very com- fortable one for thofe navigators, who after coming out of the ftrait, endeavour to get to the northward, with winds which conftantly vary from S. W. to N. \V. by W. Sir John Narborough, after leaving the ftraits of Magalhaens, in 1669, run along the coaft of Chili, examining all the inlets and creeks, as far as the river of Baldivia, into which he entered ; he fays *♦ It muft be fuppofed, that the author means South America. F. ^ ^ exprefslj'. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. ioi Lvard, ItoN. the Lft of tar as fays I *( -J efsly, cxprcfsly, that the courfe from Cape Dcfire to Baldivia is N. 5° E. This is fomething more certain than the conjectural aflertion of Don George and Don Antonio. If, upon the whole, their conjecture hud been true, by the courfe which we were obliged to take we mufl; have fallen in with the land. When we were got into the Pacific Ocean, I agreed order of ftii. ing of the with the commander of the Etoile, that, in order to Boudcurcand ... f. n EtOilc. diicover a greater fpace of the fea, he mould go every morning fouthward, as far from me as the weather would allow, keeping within fight ; and that every evening we fliould join ; and that then he fhould keep in our wake, at about half a league's dillance. By this means, if the Boudeufe had met with any fudden dan- ger, the Etoile was enabled to give us all the afliftance which the cafe might require. This order of failing has been followed throughout the whole voyage. On the 30th of January, a failor fell into the fea; our Lor,ofafaiior efforts were ufelefs ; and we were unable to fave him : [j" ^3"'** it blew very frefli, and we had a great fea. I directed my courfe for making the land, which pruitief, Davis*, an Englifti privateer, faw in 1686, between d"*^*" ^°' 27° and 28° fouth latitude; and which Roggewein, a Dutchman f, fought for in vain, in 1722. I coniinu- ♦ Mr. Bounfainville writes David: indeed, he and mod writers of liis nation, mutilate all foreign names ; not only inadvertently, but often on purpofe, through mere caprice. F. t A Mecklenburger, who, with his father, had been in the Dutch fcrvicc. F. D d cd )a > .and. m^i I .'■ ill ■ft 1 1 i if'^ '<' ' m. ac2 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 1768. gj jQ (land in fearcli of it till the 17 th of February February. ' . ' - Incertitude According to M. dc Bcliin's chart, I muft have failed t'ude*'of Eaiicr o^cr this land on the i 4th. I did not chufe to go in ' *^'^' fearch of Eafter ifland, as its latitude is not laid down with certainty. Many geographers agree in placing itf in 2 7° or 2 8"S. M. Buache, alone, puts it in 31°. However, on the 14th, being in 27° y' of latitude ob- ferved, and 104° 12^ computed weft longitude, ve faw two birds very like Eguerrcts*, which generally do not go further than 6 c or 80 leagues from hnd j we like- wife faw a tuft of that green plant, which faftens on fliips' bottoms ; and, for thefe reafons, I continued to ftand on the fame courfe till the i 7 th. Upon the whole, I think, from the account which Davis gives of the land he faw, that it is no other than the ifles of St. Ambrofe and St. Felix, which are two hundred leagues from the coaft of Chili. From the 2 3d of February, to the 3d of March, we had wefterly wind?., conftantly varying between S. W. and N. W. with calms and rain : every day, either a lit- tie before noon, or foon after, we had fudden gufls of rain, accompanied with thunder. It was firange to us to meet with this extraordinary wind, under the tropic> and in that ocean, fo much renowned above all other feas, for the uniformity and the freflinefs of the E. and S. E. • A kind of fca-fov/1 ; probably of the gull or tern kind. F. trade- Meteorolo- gical Obfer- vations. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 203 trade-winds; which are faid to reign in it all the' year round. We (hall find more than one opportunity to , make the fame obfer vat ion. ■ • " '" ,j Durincr the month of February, M. Verron communi- Artronomxai " ^ obftrvations, cated to me the refult of four obfervations, towards de- compared. ' with the ihip^ lermining our longitude. The firft, which was made reckoning. on the 6th at noon, differed from my reckoning only 31 ; which I was more to the weftward than his ob- fervation. The fecond, taken at noon on the 1 1 th, differed from my eflimated longitude 37' ^s\ which I was to the eaftward of him. By the third obfervation, made on the 2 2d, reduced to noon, I was more weftward than he, by 42' 30'S and I had i'' 25^ of difference weft, from the longitude determined by the obferva- tions of the 27 th. Then we met with calms and con- trary winds. The thermometer, till we came into 45'' lat. always kept between 5° and 8^ above the freezing-point: it then rofe fucceflively ; and when we ran between 27° and 24° of lat. it varied from 1 7° to i 9°. There was an almoft epidemical fore thi oat among the crew of my frigate, as foon as we had left the ftraits. As it was attributed to the fnow-waters of the ftraits, I ordered every day, that a pint of vinegar, and red hot bullets fhould be put into the fcuttled calk, containing the water for the crew to drink, on the upper deck. Happily thefc fore throats yielded to the fimpleft reme- D d 2 dies ; IS ■'r. Meeting with the firft ifles. 1768. Match* 204 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. dies ; and, at the end of March, we had no-body upon, the fick-lift. Only four failors were attacked by the fcurvy. About this time we got plenty or Bonitos and. Gjeat-ears (Grandes-Oreilles) j and, during eight or ten days, fufficient were taken to afford one meal a-day for the crews of both fhips. During March, we ran on the parallel of the firfi lands and illes marked on the chart of M. Bellin, by the name of Quiros's Illes. On the 2 ill we c jght a tun- ny, in whofe belly we found fome little fifli, not yet, digefted, of fuch fpecies as never go to any diftance. from the fliore. This was a fign of the vicinity of land. Indeed, the 2 2d, at fix in the morning, we faw at once, four little ifles, bearing S. S. E. |E. and a little ille about four leagues weft. The four illes I called ks qmtre Fa^ cardim j and as they were too far to windward, I flood. obfervatioM for the little ifle a-head of us. As we approached it, we. there" iflc5. difcovered that it is furrounded with a very level fand, and that all the interior parts of it are covered with thick woods, above which the cocoa-trees raife their fertile heads. The fea broke much to the N. and S. and a greac fwell beating all along the eaftern fide, prevented our accefs to this ifle in that part. However, the verdure charmed our eyes, and the cocoa-trees every where ex- pofed their fruits to our fight, and over-lhadowed a grafsplot adorned with flowers; thoufands of birds were ! -I ) E .< ' ii \ \ i i Cos T I .\ r A Ilex I' f //.><■ T 11 A. C II ,'/ tin F li r.\(n S // / r s . ,.,<' '■' "■ '"'':.,. It /;.,•.'/. I ,;■„/, *ll.!' '■ ,(.i ■ 'liff.'UU/'J. /. »0.f i,iv,.l;F I t.> i ili.if /ri I li I Til II \ -^ r -0 i;i II ic '7 i8 iH ' I" ■' ^- > V' ' I'' "W m'^'' ■-J Wi }-l' :• t .' , f':i ' ■_ , I -;« 1 N , 1 ■' 1! i r:.^ '"' 1 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. were hovering about the fliore, and feemed to announce a coaft abounding in filh, and we all longed for a de- fcent. We thought this would be eafy on the weftern- fide ; and we ran along the coaft at the diftance of a- bout two miles. We faw the fea break on every fid^ with equal force, withouc a fingle harbour or creek, which might ferve for fhelter, or flem the force of the fea. Thus lofing all hopes of landing there, unlefs at the evident rifk of having,^ our boats ^ ived to pieces, we refumed aur courfe again, when fome of our peo- ple cried our, that they faw three men lunning to the fea-fliore. We ihould never have thought that fo fmall an ifle could be inhabited ; and my firft conje(n:ures were, that fome Europeans muft certainly have been fhip- wrecked upon- it. I prefently gave orders to lay-to j as 1 was determined to do all I could to fave them. Thefe men were returned into the woods; but foon after they came out again, fifteen or twenty in number, and ad- vanced very faft j they were naked, and bore very long pikes, which they brandifhed againft the (hips, with figns of threatening; after this bravado, they retired to the woods, where we could diftinguifh their huts, by means of our glafles* Thefe men feemed very tall, and of a bronze colour — Who can gxve an account of the manner in which they were conveyed hither, what com- munications they have with other beings, and what be- ' comes 205 It is inhabit, ed, notwith* flanding its fmall fize. 1 ! iiiii: i •■■^ ,'','». i!^ 20(j A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. comes of them when they multiply on an ifle, which has no more than a league in diameter i I called it J/Ie dss Landers *. Being Icfs than a league to the N. E. of ; this iflc, I made the fignal to the Etoile to found j fhe did fo with a line of two hundred fathom, without find- ing any bottom. '* ' * ' From that day we always fhortencd fail at night, fear- ing to meet all at once fome of thefe low-lands, to which it is fo dangerous to come near. We were obliged to bring-to f, during a part of the night, between the 2 2d and 23d; as we had a florm, with very high wind, rain, and thunder. At day-break we faw land, bearing from us, from N. E. b. N. to N. N. W; We flood for it, Farther meet- and at eight o'clock wcrc about three leagues from its ing with iflands. caftcrmoft point. Then, though it was fomewhat hazy, we perceived breakers along this coaft, which ap- peared very low, and covered with trees : therefore, we flood out to fea again, waiting for the fair weather to allow us to come nearer the coafl at a lefs rifk j this we were able to do towards ten o'clock. Being only one league ofT the ifland, we ran along it, endeavouring to find a proper landing-place ; we could not find bottom with 1 2 o fathom. A bar, over wkich the fea broke with great violence, lay along the whole coaft ? and we * Ifle of Lancebearers. t Rfjier en travers. foon A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 207 foon difcovercd, that this ifland is formed by two very narrow flips of land, which join at the N. W. end, and leave an opening to the S. E. between their extremities* The middle of this iflc is therefore occupied by the oefcription . oflhelargell tea, m all its length, which is about ten or twelve oftheicifle?. leagues S. E. and N. W. fo that it appears like a very ob- long horfe-flioe, whereof the operiing or entrance is at S. E. ,. The tv^ro necks of land are fo very narrow, that we could perceive the fea beyond the r )fl northerly onr. They feem compoltd of nothing but fandy downs, in- terfperfed with low grounds, without either trees or ver- dure.. The higher downs are covered with cocoa-nut and other lefler trees,' which were very Ihady. After noon we faw periaguas in the kind of lake which this ifland forms ; fome failing, others paddling. The fa- vages in them were naked. In the evening we faw a great number of thefe iflanders along the coaft. They likewife fecmed to have fuch long lances as the inhabi- bitants of the firft ifland threatened us with. We had not yet found any place where our canoes could land. The fea foamed every where with equal violence. Night interrupted our refearches ; we p^iled it plying under our top-fails ; and not difcovering any landing-place, on the 24th in the morning, we continued our courfe, and left this inacceflible ifland j which, on account of its ^ figure. I:. t. ". it: .t, t "t: i it ^* 2o8 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. '•!i! W ; Firft d.vifi- on : i)an- Error In the chart of this part of the Pacific Ocean. figure, I called Harp JJland. I queftion whether this ex- traordinary land is rifing and encrcafing, or whether it is decaying ? How was it peopled ? Its inhabitants ap- peared to us tall and well proportioned. I admire tlneir coinage, i^^ they live unconcerned on ihefe little flips of land, which are cxpofcd to be buried in the fea every moment by a hurricane. The (lime day, at live in the afternoon, we faw an- other land, about fevcn or eight leagues diftant ; the un- certainty of its pofition, the incohftant fqually and tem- pefluous weather, und the obfcurity of the night oblig- ed us to (land ofT and on. The 2 j:th, in the morning, we came near the land, which we found to be another very low ifland, extending S. E. and N. W. about twenty- four leagues. We continued till the 27th to fail be- tween low and partly overflowed iflands, four of which we examined, all of the fame nature, and all inacceiH- ble, and not deferving that we fliould lofe our time in vifiting them. I gave the name of Dangerous Jrcbipelago to this duller of iflands ; of which we faw eleven, and which are probably more numerous. It is very dan- gerous failing amidfl: the. low ifles, furrounded with breakers and fhoals ; where it is neceflary, cfpecially at night, to ufe the utmoft precaution. I determined to ftand more foutherly, in order to get clear of thefe dangerous parts. Indeed, on the 2 8th^ we A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 20i » iwe wc ccafcd to fee the land. Quiros, difcovcred firft, ia 1606, the Ibuth end of tliis chain of illands, which cx- tcn(' \V. N. W. and among which admiral Roggcwcin found himlclf engaged in 1722, in about ij^lat. he called ihcm the Labyrinth. Upon the wliolc, I know not on what grounds our geographers lay down after thefe ifles, a beginning of land fccn, as they fay, by Quiros, and to which they give feventy leagues of extent. All that can be inferred from the Journal of this navigator is, that the firft place he landed at, after his departure from Peru, was eight leagues in extent. But far from confidering it as a confiderable coafl, he fays, that the favages who inhabit it, gave him to underfland, that he fliould find great countries in his way *. If any con- fiderable land exifled hereabouts, we could not fail meeting with it ; as the leaft latitude we were hicherto arrived at, was 17° 40^ S. which is the fame that Qui- ros obferved on this very coaft, whereof the geographers have been pleafed to make a great continent. I agree, that it is difficult to conceive fuch a number of low iQands, and almofl drowned lands, without fnp- pofing a continent near it. But Geography is a fcience * The continent, which tlie geographers place in thcfe parts, ought to have been hiiil down only as a fign of land, which Qjiiros fays he met with the 27th of Janu- ary 1606. But thcfe figns of continent Qiiiros found before he came to the iflc of Sagittaria, which is the firft he landed at, after filling from Peru. See Mr. Dalrymplis Hijhrical Colkillon of Voyages la the Sjutb Pacific Ocean, parti. XO7, 108. •4ud the chart of the South Seas annexed. F E e of ! . (' f n::i iV 21 O Aftronomical obfcrvationi, compared with my rec- koning. Meteorologi' cal obferva- lions. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. of fatfts ; in ftudying it, authors muft by no means give way to any fyllem, formed in their lludies, unlcfs they would run the rilk of being fubjetH: to very great errors, which can be redificd only at the expencc of navi- gators. -■' -- - ' Mr. Verron, in March, gave me three obfervations of longitude. The firll, taken by Hadley's o(5tant, on the 3d in the afternoon, was only 2 1 3^0' diiTcrent from my reckoning, I being fo much to the weftward of the obferved longitude. The fecond, made by the mega- meter, and reduced to noon of the loth, differed con- fiderably from my reckoning, as my computed longi- tude was 3° 6 more weftward than that taken by obferva- tion. On the contrary, from the refult of the third ob* fervation, taken with the 0(5lant on the 27 th, my reckon- ing agreed within 3/ i s\ which he found I was more eartward than his longitude. It muft be obferved, that fmce my leaving the ftraits of Magalhaens, I have al- ways followed the longitude of my departure, without corre(5ling it in the leaft, or making ufe of the obferva- tions. ^ii, ,, ,. ^,,.i... . . ': The thermometer * conftantly kept between 1 9** and 20°, during this month, and even near the land. To- wards the end of the month, we had five days weft winds, with fqualls and ftorms, which fucceeded each Keaumur's. Other A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 211 Other almoft without interruption. It rained continu- ally ; and the I'curvy made its appearance on eight or ten perfons of the crew. Moiftncfs is one of the rr.oH powerful caufes of this difeafc. Each Hiilor got daily a pint of lemonade, prepared with a kind of powder, Aivantagf- oui ufe ot le- called powder of fjciot', which we made great ufe or, moiade-pow- * "^ . del at fea. durinc the courfe of this voyaiie. On the third ofwiterde- March 1 had likewife begun to make ufe of the didilling f»>t- apparatus of M. Poiffonier; and we continued till wc arrived at New Britain to make ufe of the fea-w^^er, which was by this means deprived of its fait ; employ- ing it in broth, and in boiling meat and legumes. The fupply of water it procured us, during this long run, was a very great refource. We lighted our fire at five in the evening, and put it out by five or fix in the morn- ing, making above a barrel of w?ter every night. By way of fparing our frefh water, we ul ,vayj kneaOed our bread with fiilt water. /' t'.. t;>.'i. 'U >t))jvi/h>. >\; The fecond of April, at ten in the morning, we per- gjcond divi. ceived to the N. N. E, a high and very deep mountain, ^^^^hipeC' feemingly furrounded by the fea. I called it the rjwJc?/>,°^^°"'^'"- or the Peak of the Boudeufe. We flood to the northward, in order to make it plain, when we faw another land, bearing W. by N. the coafl of which was not fo high, sigwt of but afforded an indeterminate extent to our eyes. We ^"'"' had a very urgent necefTity for touching at feme place E e 2 where April. 21 2 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 'it', fays mm It li !!; lilr Manoeuvres in order to land there. '»! J \i^' where we might get refrefliments and wood, and we flat- tered ourfelves to find them on this land. It was a calm almoft the whole day. In the evening a breeze fprung up, and we flood towards the land till two in the morning, when we Hood off fhore again, for three hours together. The fun rofe obfcured by clouds and haze ; and it was nine o'clock in the morning before we could fee the land again, its fouthermoft point then bearing W. by t^ We could no longer fee the peak of the Boudeufe, but from the maft-head. The wind blew N. and N. N. E. and we flood as clofe upon it as we could, in order to h\i in to windward of the ifland. As we came nearer we faw, beyond its northcrmoil point,. a diftant land, flill further to northward, without our be- ing able at ihat time to diftinguiih whether it joined to the firft ifle, or whether it formed a fecond. Duiing the night, between the third and fourth, we turned to windward, in order to get more to the north- ward. With joy we faw fires burning on every p.irt of the coaft, and from thence concluded that it was inha- bited. ' •" "■ ""• ' ■ ^'- ' ■ ■' ■■ The 4th, at day-break, we difcovered that the two lands, which before appeared feparate, w.re united to- gether by a low land, which was bent like a bow, and; formed a bay open to the N. E. We run with all fails fet towards the land, Handing to windward of this bay, 6 when A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. when we perceived a periagua coming from the offing, and {landing for the land, and making ufe of her fail and paddles. She pafled athwart us, and joined a num- ber of others, which failed a-head of us, from all parts of the illand. One of them went before all the reft ; it was manned by twelve naked men, who prefcnted us with branches of bananas ; and their demonftrations (ig- nited that this was their olive-branch. We anfwercd them with all the figns of friendfliip we could imagine ; they then came along fide of our (hip ; and one of them, remarkable for his prodigious growth of Iiair, which flood like brillles divergent on his head, offered us, to- gether with his branch of peace, a little pig, and a clufler of bananas. We accepted his prefent, which he fattened to a rope that was thrown over to him; we gave him caps and handkerchiefs ; and thcfc firfl pre- I'ents were the pledges of our alliance with thefe people, .•t.\jn) ' 1'^^ o. ^'Ji.i '■ ' ii ,Li u.'A'i Mm v.' V J '■ i,it I'he two fliips were foon furroundcd with more than an hundred pcriaguas of different fizes, all which had outriggers. They w'^re laden with cocoa-nuts, bananas* and other fruits of the country. The exchange of thcfe fruits, which were delicious to us, was made very ho- neOly for all forts of trifles ; but without any of the illanders venturing to come aboard. We were obliged either to come into their periaguas, or flicw them at a dillance 21 3 Fird trafTc with thefe iHaudeis. m {■■ ! ,.•1' .c t-J'- ■" 1' ■ "'■ i4 'I- •Ji.l I '■ iiii I 214 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. diftance what we offered in exchange } when both par- ties were agreed, a bafket or a net was let down by a rope ; they put their goods in ir, and fo we did ours j giving before they had received, or receiving before they gave indiflercntly, with a kind of confidence, which made us conceive a good opinion of their charu(5ter. We further faw no kind of arms in their periaguas, in which there were no women at this firft interview. The periaguas kept along-fide of the ihipS; till the approach of night obliged us to (land off Ihore, when they all retired. • , . ^ :,ii.,.i irF,:''i ."•jv^i*' lyi"^^^^.-..' We endeavoured, daring night, to go to the north- ward, never (landing further than three leagues from the land. All the fliore was, till near midnight, cover- ed as the night before, with little fires at a fliort diflance from each other : it feemed as if it was an illumination made on purpofe, and we acc(,mpanied it with feveral Iky-rockcts from both our fhips. The 5 th we fpent in plying, in order to work to windward of the ifland, and in letting the boats found for an anchoring-place. The afpedt of this coaft, elevated like an amphitheatre, offered us the moft enchanting profpecH:. Notwithflanding the great height of the Dcfcnpton mountains- none of the rocks has the appearance of bar- as ken item rcnncfs ; every part is covered with woods. We hardly the offing. 1 1- 1 , believed our eyes, when we law a peak covered with trees. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 21 trees, up lo its folitary fummit, which rifes above the level of the mountains, in the interior parts of the fouthermoft quarter of the ifland. Its apparent fize feemed to be no more than of thirty toifes in diameter, and grew kfs in breadth as it rofe higher. At a diilance it might have been taken for a pyramid of immenfe height, which the hand of an able fculptor had adorned with garlands and foliage. The lefs elevated lands are interfperfed with meadows and little woods ; and all a- long the coaft there runs a piece of low and level land, covered with plantations, touching on one fide the fea^ and on the other bordering the mountainous parts of the country. Here we faw the houfes of the iflanders amidfl bananas, cocoa-nut, and other trees loaded with fruit.- - ■'■■■ ' "'- '''': ''■•- '•-■■; '■'''' As we ran alon^ the coaft, oiif eyes were flruck with the fight of a beautiful cafcade, which came from the tops of the mountains, and poured its foaming waters into the fea. A village was fituated at the foot of this cafcade, and there appeared to be no breakers in this part of the coaft. We all wiflied to be able to anchor within reach of this beautiful fpot ; we were conftantly founding aboard the Ihips, and our boats took found- ings clofe under the fliore ; but we found a bottom of nothing but rocks in this port, and were forced to go in fearch of another anchorage. < The m\ ' I I 'mm ">■ 1* I' 1 ;; I r 2 I 6 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. I :'•■• I Mi C.'i'.tiniiation of the tritlic .. iih the iiidiiders. The periaguns returned to the Ihip at fun-rifing, and continued to make exchanges all the day. We likewifc opened new brancUea of commerce; for, befides the fruits, which they brought the day before, and other refrefliments, fuch as fowls and pigeons, the ill an ders brought with them feveral inftruments for fiOiing ; (lone chifeis, (herminet-' tes de ptcrrej ftrange kinds of cloth, Ihells, &c. They wanted iron and ear-rings in exchange. This bartering trade was carried on very honeftly, as the day before : this time forae pretty and almoft naked women came in the pcriaguas. One of the iflanders went on board the Etoilc, and Rayed there all night, without being in the lead uneafy. This night was likewiie fpent in plying j and on the ^th in the morning we were got to the moft northerly extremity of the ifland. Another ifle now came within fight: but feeing feveral breakers that feemed to ob- ftruct the palTage between the two ifles, I determined to return in fcarch of anchorage in the firfl bay, which we faw on the day of our land-fall. Our boats which founded a -head of us towards fhore, found the north fide of the bay ev^ry where furrounded, at a quarter of a league's dillance, by a reef which appears at low wa- ter. However, about a league from the north point, they difcovered a gap in the reef, of the width of twice a cable's length at mod, where there was 30 and 35 faihom A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 217 fathom of water, and within it a pretty extenfive road, where the bottom varied from nine to thirty fathom. This road was bounded to the fouth by a reef, which, proceeding from the land, joined that which furrounded the fliore. Our boats had conllantly found a fandy bot- tom, and difcovered feveral little rivers fit for watering at. Upon the reef, on the north fide, there are three lit- tle iflands. Tnis account determined me to come to an anchor in Anchorage ai the road, and we immediately made fliil to enter into it. We ranged the point of the llarboard reef in entering ; and as foon as we were got within it, we let go our beft bower in 34 fathom, bottom of grey fand, fliells, and gravel ; and we immediately carried out the llream- anchor to the north-weft, in order to let go our fmall bower there. The Etoile went to windward, and came to an anchot a cable's length to the northward of us. As foon as we were moored, we ftruck yards and top- mafts. As we came nearer the fliore, the number of iflanders Difficulty of mooring the furrounding o r fliips encreafed. The periaguas were fliSps. fo numerous all about the fliips, that we had much to do to warp in amidft the croud of boats and the noife. All thefe people came crying out ta\o, which means friend, and gave a thoufand figns of friendfliip ; they all aflicd nails and ear-rings of us. The periaguas were . -• . F f full .1 '*. m \< !■ . . M ■* t-'tH 111 s ,i -{-,,. r 2i8 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. full of females ; who, for agreeable features, are not inferior to mod European w6men ; and who in point of beauty of the body might, with much reafon, vie with thera all. Mofl of thcfe fair females were naked j for the men and the old women that accompanied them, had ilripped them of the garments which they general- ly (!.efs themfelves in. The glances which they gave us from their periaguas, feemed to difcover fome de- gree of uneafmefs, notwithftanding the innocent man- ner in which they were given ; perhaps, becaufe nature has every where embelliflied their fex with a natural ti- midity ; or becaufe even in thcfe countries, where the eafe of the golden age is flill in ufe, women feem Icaft to defire what they moft wi(h for. The men, who were more plain, or rather more free, foon explained their meaning very clearly. They prefled us to choofe a wo- man, and to come on fiiore with her ; and their gef- tures, which were nothing Icfs than equivocal, denoted in what manner we lliould form an acquaintance with her. It was very diflicult, amidft fuch a fight, to keep at their work four hundred young French failors, who had feen no women for fix months. In fpite of all our precautions, a young girl came on board, and placed herfelf upon the quarter-deck, near one of the hatch- ways^ which was open, in order to give air to thofe who were heaving at the capftern below jr. The girl ^ care- A VOYAGE ROUNt) THE WORLD. 21 9 keep who our aced atch- hofe girl care- carelefsly dropt a cloi'i, which covered her, and appear- ed to the eyes of a1i bchokhrs, fuch as Venus fliewed herfclf to the Phrygian fliepherd, having, indeed, the celeftial form of that goddcfs. Both failors and foldiers endeavoured to come to the hatch-way ; and the cap- ftern was never hove with more alacrity than on this occafion. ... At laft our cares fucceeded in keeping thefe bewitched fellows in order, though it was no lefs difRcult to keep the command of ourfelves. One fingle Frenchman, who was my cook, having found means to efcapeagainft my orders, foon returned more dead than alive. He had hardly fet his feet on lliore, with the fair, whom he had chofen, when he was immediately furrounded by a croud of Indians, who undreiTed him from head to fecr. He thought he was utterly loft, not knowing where the exclamations of thofe people would end, who were lu- multuoufly examining every part of his body. After having confidered him well, they returned him his clothes, put into his pockets whatever they had taken out of therti, and brought the girl to him, dcfiring him to content thofe defires which had brought him on fliorc with her. All their perfuahve arguments had no cfTccl:; they were obliged to bring the poor cook on board, who told me, that I might reprimand him as mucih as I pleafed, but that I could never frighten him (o much, as he had juft now been frightened on (liorc. r f 2 C II A P. i ■ i 1 ■ r 131 m ? I I I 220 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. iV. ^i:M ^' j'l i H ;V. ; '4 •f1 ^1 ' '[ 's-v nqr^ii^ CHAP. H. .;-;'!,-„„ ...t.;.in'r: V ; »*! . 5/^j/ ^/ Tl:////} account of the good and evil lohich bejel us there. Landing. J 'VC pointed out the obflacles which we met with i coming to an anchor. When we were moored, i went ' '^ fliore with feveral officers, to furvey the wa- tering-place. An immenfe croud of men and women received us there, and could not be tired with looking at us ; the boldcft among them came to touch us ; they even puflied afide our clothes with iheir hands, in or- der to fee whether wc were made exactly like ihenT: none of them wore any arms, not fo much as a Hick. They fufficiently expreflfed their joy at our arrival. The vifitpaidto chief of this diftricTt condud^ed and introduced us into the chief of thediftrict. j^^g houfc, in which we found five or fix women, and a venerable old man. The women faluted us, by lay- ing their hands on their breads, and faying feveral times ta'^o. The old man was the father of cur hofV. He had no other charader of old age, than that refpecTt- able one which is imprinted on a fine figure. His head adorned with white hair, and a long beard ; all his body, nervous and flefliy, had neither wrinkles, nor fliew^d any marks of decrepitude. This venerable man feemed to be rather difpleafed with our arrival ; he even retired A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 221 retired without anfwering our civilities, without giving any figns of fear, aftonifliment, or curii ' ty j very far' from taking part in the raptures all thif jjeople was in at our fight, his thoughtful and fufpicious air feemed to fhcw that he feared the arrival of a new race of men would trouble thofe happy days which he had fpent in peace. ^ We were at liberty to examine the interior parts of Defcription of his houfe* the houfe. It had . furniture, no ornament to dif- tinguifh it from t1>'i c imon huts, except its extent; It was about eigh - ic"*: long and twenty feet wide. In it we obferved a cy inder of ozier, three or four feet long, fet with »-)w feathers, which was fufpended from the thatch ; and befides it, there were two wooden figures which we took for idols. One, which was their god *, ftood upright againft one of the pillars ; the god- defs was oppofite, leaned againft the wall, which flte furpafled in height, and was faftened to the reeds, of which their walls are made. Thefc figures, which were ill made, and without any proportion, were about * The people of Otahitfe, or aa our author wrongly calls it, Taiti, are not ido- laters, according to the laft publiflied account, and thercibre it is certain, that Mr. dc B. took fomR ornamental figures for thofe of their divinities. Had this cir- cumnavigator made a longer (lay in this ifland, had he thoroughly (hidicd the lan- guage of the country, and looked upon many things with a more ph.ilofophical, or Icfs prejudiced eye, his account would have proved lefs fubjed to the niif- takes it abounds with. The Englifli, more ufed to phi.'ofophical enquiries, will give more faithful accounts in the work that is going to be publiflied, of tl-,e creat difco^'criea made by the Britilh nation in thofe leas. F. three Ji: »> -1 ■* ?'^ss * } Iri. U-r\ t$ i! Reception whitli );e giv'Ci us. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WOULD. [hrce feet liigh, but fiood mi a cylindrical pedcftal, hollow uithin, and carved qiiiic through. This pcdei^al was made in the fliapc oi a tcwcr, was fix or ievcn feet high, :?nd about a foot in diameter. The whole was made of a black and vCry hard wood. The chief ihcn p; jpoled that we fliould fit down upo'i the grafs before his houfc, where he ordered fome fruit, broiled fiih and water to be fet before us : during the meal he icnt foi fome pieces of cloth, and for two great collars or gorgets of oziers, covered with black feathers and (bark's teeth. They are pretty like in form to the immcnfe ruffs, worn in the time of Trancis the firft. One of ihefe he put upon the neck of the Chevalier d'Oraifoiij another upon mine, and dif- iriburcd the cloths. We were juft going to return on board when the Ciievalier de Suzannet mifled a pi^ol, which had been very dexterouily ftolen out of his pocket. We informed the chief of it, who immediately was for fearching all the people v/ho furrounded us, and even treated fome of them very harflily. We flopt his refearchcs, endeavouring only to make him under- ftand, that the thief would fall a victim to his own crime, and that what he had ftolen could kill him. The chief and all his people accompanied us to our boats. We were almoft come to them when we were flopped by an iflander, cf a fine figure, who lying under A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 223 under a tree, invited us to fit down by him on the gnifs. We accepted his offer : he then leaned towards us, and with a tender air he flowly fung a foiig, with- out doubt of the Anacreontic kind, to the tunc of a flute, which another Indian blew with his nofe : this was a charming fccnc, and worthy the pencil of a Boucher. Four iflandcrs came with great confidence to fup and lye on board. We let them hear the mufic of our flutes, bafe-viols, and violins, and we enter- tained them with a fire-work of Iky-rockcts and fire- fnakes. This fight caufed a mixture of furprize and of horror in them. On the 7 th in the morning, the chief, whofe name was Ercti, came on board. He brought us a hog, fomc fowls, and the piftol which had been flolen at his houfc the day before. This ad: of jufcice gave us a good opinion of him.. However, we made every thing ready in the morning, for landinr^ our fjck people, and our cnnip\orour watcfi^^aflcs, and leaving a guard for their defence. In the afternoon I v;ent on fhore with arms and imple- ments, and we began to make a camp on the banks of a little brook, where we were to fill our water. Ereti favv the men under arms, and the preparations for the encampment, without appearing at firft furprifed or dif- Gontented. However, fome hours after he came to me, accompanied by his father and the principal people of the !>) I '■I I s ! i :iE! 224 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. I \i Oppr)f.fion the diilricl, who had made rcmonftranccs to him on this oa ilic pa.t ofthciii.iij- occafion, and gave mc to imdcrftand that our flay on flioic difpleafcd them, that we might flay there during day-time as long a3 wc plcafcd, but tliat we Ihould ly on board our fhips at niglu. 1 infiilcd upon eftablilh- ing the camp, making him comprehend that it was ncccfTary to us, in order to get wood and water, and to facilitate the exchanges between both nations. They then held a lecond council, the refult of which, wa:, that Ercti came to a(k me whether we intended to flay Jiere for ever, or whether we intended to go away again, and how foon that would be. I told him that we fliould fet fail in eighteen days, in fign of which, I gave him eighteen lit.le flones. Upon this they held a new conference, at which they defired I would be prefent. A grave man, who feemed to have much weight with the members of the council, wanted to re- duce the number of days of our encamping to nine ; S'i^on^fbme' ^^^ ^^ ^ infiftcd on the number I had at fiift reii'-ired, conditions. jj^^y ^^ ^^^ g^^g ^^^Ql^, COnfcnt. From that moment their joy returned j Ereti himfelf offered us an extenfive building like a flied, clofe to the river, under which were fome periaguas, which he im- Enabi;niment mediately got taken away. Under this flied we raifed of a cump for curficiiand thc tcuts for thofc who wcrc ill of the fcurvy, being artiiicers. thirty-four in number, twelve from thc Boudeufc, and twenty A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 225 twenty-two from the Etoile, and for fome ncccflary hands. The guard confided of thirty foldiers, and I likewifc landed mufkcts enough to arm the workmen and the fick. I ilaid on Ciorc the firfl night, which Ercii hkewifc chofc to pafs under our tents. He or- dered his fupper to be brought, and joined it to ours, driving away the crowd which furrounded the camp, and retaining only five or fix of his friends, After fupper he dcfircd to fee fome fky-rockcts played off, and they frightened him at Icafl as much as they gave him plcafure. Towards the end of night he fent for one of his wives, whom he fent to fleep in prince Naffau's tent. She was old and ugly. ^ . The next day was fpent in completing our camp, precautions The flied was well made, and entirely covered over by dua of the ' TT 1 /" 1 natives. a kmd of mats. We left only one entrance to it, which we provided with a barrier, and placed a guard there. Ereii, his wives and his friends alone were allowed to come in j the croud kept on the outfide of the flied, and only a fingle man of our people with a fwitch in his hand was fuflicient to clear the way. Hither the natives from all fides brought fruits, fowls, hogs, fifli, and pieces of cloth, which they exchanged for nails, tools, beads, buttons, and numberlefs other trifles, which were treafures to them. They were, upon the whole, very attentive to lerun what w-nld give us plea- g fure ; '1 ,■1 I m V i. 11 is: I II I li- i^ 'I P n 226 ||Wur nH' 'pl'' .-4 1 ' 'A 4 • ii! : ' :l . ■'•Hi ■•: ^1 -fl AfiiiUrce thiy give us. A V6YAG£ R6tr]v^r> THE WORLD. fiire .; they faw us gathering antifcorbutic plants, and fearching for fhells : their women and children foon vied with each other in bringing us bundles of the fame plants, which they had ken us colle<5ting, and balkets full of (hells of all forts. Their trouble was paid at a fmall expence. This fame day I defired the chief to fliew me where I might cut wood,, The low country where we were, was covered only with fruit trees, and a kind of wood full of gum, and of little confidence j the hard wood grows upon the mountains. Ereti pointed out to me the trees which I might cut down, and even fliev^red towards which fide I fhould fell them. The natives aflifled us greatly in our works ; our workmen cut down the trees and made them into faggots, which the idanders brought to the boats ; they likewife gave us their afliftance in making our provifion of water, filling the caiks, and bringing them to the boats. Their la- bour was paid in nails, of which, the number was pro- portionate to the work they had done. The only con- flraint v»^hich their prefence put upon us, was, that they obliged us to have our eyes upon every thing that was brought on fhore, and even to look to our pockets ; for even in Europe itfclf, one cannot fee more expert filcher? than the people of this country, ■■:■'",* 6 However, ■,"i A VOYAGE ROUND Tilt WORLD. 7.1^1 However, it does not appear that Healing is ufual Precautions t.ikcn againll among themfelves. Nothing is fliut up in their houfes, thieves, every piece of furniture lies on the ground, or is hung vip, without being under Jocks, or under any pcrfon's care. Doubtlefs their curiofity for new objects excited violent defires in them; and befides that, there are al- ways bafe-minded people every where. During the two firfl nights we had feme things ftolcn from us, notwith- ftanding our guards and patroles, at whom the thieves had even thrown ftones. Thefe thieves hid themfelves in a marfli full of grafs and reeds, extending behind our camp. This marfli was partly cleared by my orders and I commanded the officer upon duty to fire upon any thieves who fhould come for the future. Ereti himfelf told mc to do it, but took great care to Ihew me feveral times the fpot where his houfe was fituated, earneftly recommend^ ing it to me, to fire towards the oppofite quarter. I like- wife fent every evening three of our boats, armed with pedereroes and fwivel guns, to ly at anchor before the camp. , . All our tranfadions were carried on in ^s friendly a manner as pofiible, if we except thieving. Our people were daily walking in the ifle v/ithout arms, cither quite alone, or in little companies. They were invited to enter the houfes, where the people gave them to eat j nor did the civility of their landlords ilop at a flight G g 2 col- I f t. 228 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Beauty of the inferior parts of the coun- try. :: ^1 collation^ they oflcied them young girls ; the hut was immediately filled with a curious croud of men and women, who made a circle round the gueft^ and the young vidlim of hofpitality. The ground was fpread with li.'aves and flowers, and their muficians lung an hymeneal fong to the tune of their flutes. Here Venus, is the goddefs of hofpitality, her worfliip does not ad- mit of any myfteries, and every tribute paid to her is a feaft for the whole nation. They were furprifed at the confufion which our people appeared to be in, as our cufl:oms do not admit of thefe public proceedings. However, I would not anfwer for it, that every one of: our men had found it impofllble to conquer his repug- nance, and conform to the cuftoms of the country. I have often, in company with only one or two o£ our people, been out walking in the interior parts of the ifle. I thought I was tranfported into the garden of Eden ; we croflcd a turf, covered with fine fruit-trees, and interfered by little rivulets, which keep up a pleafant coolnefs in the air, without any of thofe in- conveniences which humidity occafions. A numerous people there enjoy the bleflings which nature Ihowers liberally down upon them. We found companies of men and women fitting under the Ihade of their fruit- trees: they all greeted us V/ith figns of friendfhip: thofe who met us upon the road Hood afide to let us pafs by ; A VOYAGE ROUND TPIE WORLD. 22^ by ; every where we found hofpitality, eafe, innocent joy, and every appearance of happinefs amongft them. I prefented the chief of the diftridl in which we Piefents of European were with a couple of turkies, and fome ducks and fowls and * feeds made to drakes ; they were to be confidered as the mites of the *^^ *^^^^^* widow. I likewife defircd him to make a garden in our way, and to fow various forts of feeds in them, and this propofal was received with joy. In a Ihort time, Ereti prepared a piece of ground, which had been ehofen by our gardeners, and got it inclofed. I ordered it to be dug ; they admired our gardening inftruments. They have likewife around their houfes a kind of kitchen gardens, in which they plant an eatable hibif- Gus or okra, potatoes, yams, and other roots. We fowed for their ufe fome wheat, barley, oats, rice, maize, onions, and pot herbs of all kinds. We have reafon to believe that thefe plantations will be taken care of ; for this nation appeared to love agriculture, and would I believe be eafily accuilomed to make advantage of their foil, which is the mod fertile in the univerfe. u During the firft days of our arrival, I had a vifit vifitofthe from the chief of a neighbouring diftria, who came on neighbouring board with a prcfent of fruits, hogs, fowls, and cloth. This lord, named Toittaa, has a fine Ihape, and is pro- digioully tall. He was accompanied by fome of his relations, who were almofl all of them fix feet (French mca- id i z^o T ^fi of our iii:chors, (Jau- gtrb whith SVC uieei with. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. i-neafure) high; I made tlicm prcfcnts of nails, fome tools, beads, and filk fluffs. We were obliged to repay this vifit at his hoiife, where we were very well re- ceived, and where the good-natured Toutaa offered me one of his wives, who was very young and pretty hand- fomc. The afTembly was very numerous, and the mu- ficians had already began the hymenean. Such is their manner of receiving vifits of ceremony. ^^ ^. On the I oth, an iflander was killed, and the natives came to complain of this murder. I fent fome people to the noufe, whither they had broughr tlie dead body ; it appeared very plain that the raa. had been killed by a fire-arm. However, none of our people had been fuffered to go out of the campj or to come from the fliips with fire-arms. The moft e:,';.!: enquiries which I made to find out the authc • o^ tids vihainous acflion proved unfuccrr '"'il. The natives doubtlefs believed that :'icir coinnv nan had been in the wrong; for they continued to come to our quarters with their ufual confidence. However, I received intelligence that many of the people had been feen carrying off their efieds to the mountains, and that even Ereti's houfe was quite un- f urniQied. 1 made him fome more prefents, and this good chief continued to teilify the fincerell friendfliip for us. I haflened in the mean while the completing of our works of all kinds ; for though this was an excellent place A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. place to fupply our wants at, yet I knew that we were very ill moored. Indeed, though we under-run the cables almoft every day with the long boat, and had not yet found them chafed *, yet we had found the bottom was ilrewed with large coral ; and bcfrdcs, in cafe of a high wind from the offing, we had no room to drive. Neceflity had obliged us to take this anchor- age, without leaving us the liberty of choofmg, and we foon found that our fears were but too well grounded. The I 2th, at five in the morning, the wind being fouth, our S. E, cable, and the hawfcr of the ftream- anchor, which by way of precaution we had extended to the E. S. E. parted at the bottora We immediately let go our Iheet-anchor, but before it had reached the bottom, the frigate fwung off to her K. W. anchor, ana we fell aboard the Etoile on ih ' ! ubujrd fide. We hove upon our anchor, and the F .>i]e veered out cable as faft as poflible, fo that we werti feparatcd before any damage was done. ne ftore Ihip then tent us the end of a hawfer, which ihe had extended V:, the eaftward, and upon which w^ hove, in order to get farther from her. We then r eighed our Ihea-anclior, and liove in our hawfer and cable, which parted ac liie bottom. The latter had been cut about thirty fathoiH from the clinch j • Rjvcs. * ' 231 Account of the manoeu- vres which Lved us. we ■■ tl -I ;■* ••^1 ... 1 ^ ► -.■^l fif ■1 '4 'M ■ ^ c* •ii \ 'ti 'h % :\& ;■! :■■< '1 ':i *- J ^ Another rnurticr of fome iilan- A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. we ftiiftcd it end for end, and bent it to n, fpare anchor of two thoufand feven hundred weight, whir.a the Etoile had flowed in her hold, and which we fent for. Our S. E. anchor, which we had let go without any buoy- rope, on account of the great depth, was entirely loft ; and we endeavoured, without fuccefs, to fave the ftream- anchor, whofe buoy was funk, and for which it was im- poflible to fweep the bottom. We prefently fwayed up our forc-top-maft and fore-yard, in order to be ready for failing as foon as the wind fliould permit. In the afternoon the wind abated and Ihifted to the eaftward. We then carried out to the S. E. a dream- anchor, and the anchor we had got from the Etoile, and I fent a boat to found to the northward, in order to know whether there was a paflage that way, by which means we might have got out almoft with any wind. One misfortune never comes alone ; as we were occu- pied with a piece of work on which our fafety depended, I was informed that three of the natives had been killed or wounded with bayonets in their huts, that the alarm was fpread in the country, that the old men, the women and the children fled towards the mountains %:Xh their goods, and even the bodies of the dead, and ihat we fhould perhaps be attacked by an army of tlick enraged men. Thus our lituation gave us room to fear a war on (hore, at the very moment when both fhips A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 235 iliips were upon the point of being ftranded. I went afliore, and came into the camp, where, in prefencc of the chief, I put four foldiers in irons, who were fuf- pciflcd to be the authors of this crime : ihcfe proceed- ings feeraed to content the natives. I paflfed a part of the night on Ihore, and reinforced Precautions againft the the watches, fearing that the inhabitants might revenge confequences 00 which ic their countrymen. We occupied a moft excellent poft> j"'R'^'= ^^''^ between two rivers, diftant from each other at moil only a quarter of a league ; the front of the camp was cover- ed by a marfli, and on the remaining fide was the fea, of which we certainly were the mailers. We had a fair chance to defend this poll againll the united forces of the whole ifland ; but happily the night pafled very quietly in the camp, excepting fome alarms occafioned by thieves. It was not from this part that I dreaded the worft that continuation could happen ; the fear of feeing the (hips loft upon the g'e« whkh n ^ • n -^ ^ ^ the ftiips run, coaft, gave me infinitely more concern. From ten o'dock in the evening, the wind frefliened very much from the call ; and was attended with a great fwell ; rain, tempeil, and all the fad appearances which aug- ment the horror of thefe dreadful fituations. Towards two o'clock in the morning, a fquall drove the fliips towards the coall: I came on board ; the fquall happily was not of long duration ; and as foon as it was H h blown I r;. Ji |5H rr 1 H ii 234 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. ! :t • Ivli \fj :i blown over, the wind blew ofFfliorc. At day -break we encountered new misfortunes ; our N. W. cable parted ; the hawfer, which the Etoile had given us, and which held us by her flream anchor, had the fame fate a few minutes after. The frigate then Twinging off to her S. E. anchor and hawfer, was no more than a cable's length off fliore, upon which the fea broke with great violence. In proportion, as the danger became more prerUng, our refources failed us ; the two anchors of which the cable's had juft parted, were entirely loft to us ; their buoys difappeared, being either funk, or taken away, during the night, by the Indians. Thus we had loft already four anchors, in four and twenty hours, and had yet feveral lolles to fuftain. At ten o'clock in the morning, the new cable we had bent to the anchor of two thoufand feven hundred weight from the Etoile, which held us to the S. E. part- ed, and the frigate, riding by a fingle hawfer, began to drive upon the coaft. We immediately let go our flieet- anchor under foot ; it being the only one which we had remaining at our bow : but of what ufc could it be to us ? We were fo clofe to the breakers, that we muft have been upon them before we had veered out cable fufficicnt to make the anchor catch hold in the ground. We expelled every moment the fad conclufion of this ad- venture, when a S. W. breeze gave us fome hopes of fetting A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. fetting fail. Our jib and ftay-fails were foon hoifled; the fliip began to ilioot a-head, and wc were endeavour- ing to make fail, in order to veer away cable and haw- fer, and get out ; but the wind almoft immediately fliifted to the eallward again. This interval had, however, given us time to take on board the end of a hawfer, from a fecond flream-anchor of tlic Etoilc, which flie had juft carried out to the eaftwaid, and which faved us for this time. We hove in upon both hawfers, and got fomewhai further from the fliore. We then fent our long-boat aboard the Etoile, to help her in mooring her fecurely ; her anchors happily lay in a bottom Icfs cover- ed with coral than that where we h-J let ours go. This being done, our long boat wer:t to weigh the anchor of 2700 weight by its buoy-rope; wc bent another cable to it, and carried it out to the N. E. we then weighed the {Iream-anchor belonging to the Etoile, and returned it to her. During thefe two days M. de la Giraudais, captain of that ftore-fliip, had a very great lliare in the prefervation of the frigate, by the afliftance which he gave me : it is with pleafure that I pay this tribute of gratitude to an officer, who has already been my companion on former voyages, and v/hofc zeal equals his talents. ' However, when the day appeared, no Indian was Peace made come near the camp, not a fmgle periagua was feen fail- iflander!. H h 2 ing, i H 1 fi 'f 1 'it u t i1 'S ;:ti ;« ■f! 23^ A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. ing, all the neighbouring houfcs were abandoned, and the whole country appeared as a delcrt. The j-rince of NalTau, who with only four or five men was gone out a litilc further, in order to fearch for fomc of the na- tives, and t»infpirc them with confidence again, found a great number of them with Ereti, about a league from the camp. As foon as tliat chief knew the prince again, he came up to him with an air of coafternation. The women, who were all in tears, fell at his fcer, kifTcd his hands, weeping and repeating feveral times, Tayo, 7?hUt', you are our ; "lends, and you kill us. By his carefles and demonflrations of fiiendlhip, he at lail fucceeded in regaining their confidence. I faw from on board a croud of people running to our quarters: fowls, cocoa-nuts, and branches full ot bananas, cmbelliflied this proceilion, and promifed a peace. I immediately went afliore with an allbrtment of filk (luiFs, and tools of all forts ; I diftributed them among the chiefs, ex- prelling my concern to them on account of the difallcr which had happened the day before, and alluring them, that I would punifli the perpetrators. The good iflan- ders loaded me with careflls ; the people applauded the reunion, and, in a Ihort time, the ufual croud and the thieves returned to our quarters, which looked like a fair. This day, and the following, they brought more refrefliments than ever. They likewife defired to have A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 237 fcti fail. have fcvcral mufl^ets fired in their prcfence, which frightened them very much, as all the creatures which we fliot at were killed immediately. The boat, which I had fent to found to the north '^^^ ^'°^'' ward, was returned with the good news of having found a very fine paffage. It was then too late to pro- lit of it the fame day ; for night was coming on. Hap- pily it paffed quietly, both on (hore and at fea. The 1 4th in the morning, wind at eaft, I ordered the EioiK", who had got her water and all her men on board, ro weigh and go out by the new north paflage. We could not go out by that paffage before the llore-fliip, (lie be- ing moored to the northward of us. At eleven llie came to fail, from a hawfer, which fhc had carried on board of us. I kept her long-boat and two fmall anchors ; I likewife took on board, as foon as flie was got under fail, the end of the cable of her S. E. anchor, whi-^h lay in a good bottom. We now weighed our flieei -anchor, carried the two ftream- anchors further out ; and were by this means moored by two great, and three fmall ancliors. At two o'clock in the afternoon we had the fatisfa(5lion of feeing the Etoile without the reefs. Our fiiuation by this means became lefs terri- fying ; we had at leail fecured to ourfelves the means of returning to our country, by putting one of the fhip^ out of danger. When M. de la Giraudais was got out into ^ ^ ^w^ .Q^. ♦t^^^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I *tt Uii 12.2 ii£ IB 2.0 lU U& F' lllii IJ4 < 6" ► I <^ 0>. /J 7 HiotograpliJc Sdaices Corporation 23 WEST MAIN SHEET WEBSTER, NY. MS80 (716)S73-4S03 ? ^ t 1 1 i b' '! Infcriptlon buried. a38 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. inta the offing, he fent back his boat to me, with MrJ l^avari Leroi, wlio had been employed to furvey the paflage. ' ,--- " • - - • . . We laboured all day, and a part of the night, to com- plete our water, and to remove the hol'pital and the camp. I buried neai: the ilied, an a<5t of taking pof- feilion, infcribed on an oak plank, and a bottle well corked and glued, containing the names of the officers of both ffiips. I have followed the fame method in regard . to all the lands difcovered during the courfe of this voyage. It was two o'clock in the morning, before every one of our people were on board: the night was dill flormy enough to give us forae difturbance, not- withftanding the number of anchors we had moored. TheBoude. On thc ijTth, at fix o'clock in the morning, the wind JunsncVdan- blowing off fliorc, and the Iky looking ftormy, we ^^^' weighed our anchor, veered away the cable of that which belonged to the Etoile, cut one of the hawfers, and veered out the other two, fetting fail under our fore- fail and top. fails, in order to go out by the eallern paflage. We left the two long-boats to weigh the an- chors i and as foon as we were got out of the reefs, I fent die two barges armed, under the command of enfign thc chevalier de Suzanner, to prote<51: the work of the long-boats. We were about a quarter of a league off fhorc, and began to give ourfelves joy of having fo f happily kiiji A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. ^39 Happily left an anchorage, that had given us fuch ter- rible alarms, when the wind ceadog all at once, the tide and a great fwell from the eaftward, began to drive us towards the reefs to leeward of the paflage. The worft confeqiiences of the ihipwreck, with which we had hi- therto been threatened, would have been to pafs the re- mainder of out days on an iile adorned with all the gifts of nature, and to exchange the fweets of the mother- country, for a peaceable life, exempted from cares. But now ihipwreck appeared with a more cruel afpedt j the fhip being rapidly carried upon the rocks, could not have refitted the violence of the fea two minutes, and hardly fome of the beic fwimmers could have faved their lives. At the beginning of the danger, I had made lignal for the long boats and barges to return and tow us. They came at the very moment, when we being only 35 or 36 fathom {so toifes) from the reef, our fituation was become quite deCperate ; the more fo as we could not let go an anchor. A wefterly breeze, fpring- ing up that inftant, brought hope ^long with it ? it ac- tually frefliened by degrees ; and at nine o'clock in the morning, we were quite clear of all dangers. I immediately fent the boats back in quell of the an- chors; and I remained plying to wait for them, In the afternoon we joined the Etoilc. At five in the evening' ©ur long-boat came on board with the beft bower, 6 and Departure from T.iiti ; lofles which \^e fanained there. 0' ■I'Ji- .1 340 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. and the cable of the Eioile, which fhe carried to her: our barge, that of the Etoilc, and her long- boat returned foon after; the latter bringing us our ftrcam-anchor and a hawfcr. As to the other two il ream- anchors, the night coining on, and the failora being extremely fatigued, they could not weigh them that day. I at ^rft intended to keep plying oS and on during night, and to fend them out for them the next morning; but at mid-night a ftrong gale fprung at E. N. E. obliging me to hoift in th^ boats j and make fail, in order to get clear of the coail. • Thus an anchorage of nine days coft us fix anchors ; which we ihould nojt have loft, had we been provided with fome iron chains. This is a precaution which no navigator ought our iiig, A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Mt, our land-fall, had lodged on board the Etoile. Ereti took him by the hand, and, prefcnting him to me, gave fjJba°rkS''ihh me to underftand, that this man, whofe name was Aotou- aJ'd'hu "a-^" rou, defired to go with us, and begged that I would "'"*'"^" • confent to it. He then prefeiited him to each of the of- ficers in particular; telling them that it was one of his friends, whom he entrufted with ihofe who were like" wife his friends, and recommending him to us with the grcateft ligns of concern. We made Ereti more prefents of all forts j after, which he took leave of us, and returned to his wives, who did not ceafe to weep all . the tiine of the periagua's being alongiide of us. In it^ there was likewife a young and handfome girl, whom: the iflander that ftayed along with us went to embrace. He gave her three pearls which he had in his ears, killed her once more ; and, notwithflanding the tears of this young wife or miftrefs, he tore himfelf from her, and came aboard the fliip. Thus we quitted this good peo- ple ; and I was no lefs furprifed at the forrow they tefli* fied on our departure, than at their a£fe<5tionate confi- dence on our arrival. *• ■ , , : s r» t* ■ I i i; -;> ;: ": 'i ■ > r . ■ . i CHAP. 2J^% A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. . r .. J. Up- CHAP. III. 1-4 ,". ■'.%. ■ I, •'■ y.i' ml ^^-'' ' ; t ' :-^ f h.M . -f ^ii . De/criptioH of the new iflandi manners and cbaraSier of its jK loVio'^E^'i: inhabitants. yfi f^5»^:!^."^^a^< '' Geographi. cal pofition •f Taiti. I "' : Lucis habitamus opacis, Riparumque toros & prata recentia rivis Incolimus. ^,. ^, .. ViRC^^ncid. Lib. VI. HP HE ifle which at firft was called New Cythera, i» known by the name of Taiti amongft its inhabi- tant^. Its latitude has been determined in our camp» fVom fev^ral meridian altitudes of the fun, obferved on fliore with a quadrant. Its longitude has been afcer- tained by eleven obfervaiions of the moon, according to the method oL^he horary angles. M. Verron had made many others bn fhore, during four days and four nights, to determine the fame longitude j but the paper on which he wrote them having been ftolen, he has only kept the laft obfcrvations, made the day before our departure. He believes their refult exa«Sl enough, though their extremes differ among themfelves 7° or 8°. The lofs of our anchors, and all the accidents I have men- tioned before, obliged us to leave this place much fooner than we intended, and have made it impoilible for us to furvey its coafts. The fouthern part of it is ft (L \ ^ entirely o A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. a4S entirely unknown to us ; that which we have ohfcrved from the S. E. to the N. W. point, feems to be ^ftcen or twenty leagues in extent, and the pofition of its prin- cipal points, is between N. W. and W. N. W. Between the S. E. point and another great cape ad- Better m- * o I- choragethtn vancing to the northward, about feven or eight leagues '•'''' *''"• from the former, you fee a bay open to the N. E. which has three or four leagues depth. Its fbores gradually dcfcend towards the bottom of the bay, where they have but little height, and feem to form the fined and heft peopled diftrid of the whole ifland. It fecras it -•^- would be eaiy to find feveral good anchoring-placcs in this bay. \Vc w^rc very ill f^rved by fortune in meet- ing wi»-h our anchorage. In entering into it by the paflage where the Etoile came out at, M. de la Giraudais aflured me, that between the two moil northerly ifles, there was a very fafe anchorage for at leaft thirty fliips $ that there was from twenty-three to between twelve and ten fathom of water, grey fand and ooze j that there was a birth of a league in extent, and never any fea. The reft of the fliore is high, and feems in general to be quite furrounded by a reef, unequally covered by the fea, and forming little illes in fome parts, on which the iflanders keep up fires at night on account of their fifliery, and for the fafety of their navigation ; fome gaps from fpace to fpace form entrances to the part I i a within i ! ?.44 I', r: M' '1 i ^ ■ . v- 4 ' *; Afpeftofthe country. ■4- I'n -ijK' A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLIX within the reefs, but the bottom riauft not be to© mucli relied upon. The lead never brings up any thing but a grey fand j this fand covers great mafles of hard and {harp coral, which can cut through a cable in ons ' night, as fatal experience taught us. • ^,. ,^i ^ * . ; Beyond the north point of this bay, the coaft forms no creek, nor no remarkable cape. The raoft wefterly point is terminated by a low ground, from which to the N. W. and at about a league's diftance, you fee a low ifle, extending two or three leagues to the N. W. The height of the mountains in the interior parts of Taiti, is furprifing in refpedt to the extent of the ifland. .Far frorti making its afpe mongft many more, as the chara£leriflics of a place where it is proheble to find minerals in : See Lehman's Art des Min$t MttalUqius^ vol. i. p. 17. But the wholtf ifle of Otahitce feems to be produced by a Volcano, and the rocks on it are chiefly lava, confequently there are very little hopes of finding any regular veins with mi* nenils on it, except fome iron-Uone, which has been liberally fcattered by the be« nevolent hand of nature all over the various |virts of the globe. F. . make ¥ ^'M..^: A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. »47 make a kind of caftanets of the ihells of the pearl- oyfler, and this is one of the inftruments employed by their dancers. \ ,f .^ . v «, We have feen no other quadrupeds than hogs, a fmall but pretty fort of dogs, and rats in abundance. The inhabitants have domeilic cocks and hens, exa(5lly like ours. We have likewife feen beautiful green turtle doves, large pigeons of a deep blue plumage and ex- cellent taile, and a very fmall fort of perrokeets, very lingular on account of the various mixture of blue and red in their feathers. The people feed their hogs and their fowla with nothing but plantains. Taking to- gether what has been confumed by us on (liore, and what we have embarked in both (hips, we have in all got by our exchanges, upwards of eight hundred fowls, and near one hundred and fifty hogs ; and if it had not been for the trouUefome work on the laft days, we fhould have got much more, for the inhabitants brought every day a greater quantity of them. > ' ' We have not obferved great heac in this idand. Dur- ing our flay, Reaumur's thermometer never rofe above 2 2", and was Ibmctimes at i 8°, but it may be obferved that the fun was already eight or nine degrees on the other fide of the equator. However, this ifle has an- other ineftimable advantage, which is that of not being infefted by thofe myriads of troublcfome infeas that are Animali or the country. Metforoln- gical ohiiT- vaiions* •jj^^ ■ I • i,i t f( ■ tlic: 14^ A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. \}'', M§^ Iwk ,1 > ■ ~0. nt^ll^M. I"; t! '':C'i ill^ t!ic plague of other tropical countries : neither have wc cnoJntf. of obfcrvcd any venomous animals in it. The climate the iliniatc : vijTourofchc Upon the wholc is fo healthy, that notwrthltanding the inhabitanti. hard work wc have done in this ifland, though our men were continually in the water, and expofed to the meridian fun, though they ilept upon the bare foil and in the open air, none of them fell fick there. Thofc of our men who were fcnt on (hore becaufe they were alllicftcd with the fcurvy, have not pafled one night there quietly, yet they regained their ftrength, and were fo far recovei'ed in the fliort fpace of time they flaid on ftiore, that fome of them were afterwards per- fectly cured on board. In fhort, what better proofs can we defire of the falubrity of the air, and the good re- gimen which the inhabitants obferve, than the health and ilrength of thefe fame iflanders, who inhabit huts expofed to all the winds, and hardly cover the earth which ferves them as a bed with a few leaves ; the happy old age to which they attain without feeling any of its inconveniences ; the acutenefs of all their fenfes ; and laftly, the fingular beauty of their teeth, which they keep even in the moft advanced age? Vegetables and fifli are their principal food j they feldom eat flefli, their children and young girls never eat any ; and this doubtlefs ferves to keep them free from almoft all our difeafes. I muft fay the lame of rih^ /? /' their Tlieir nou- ^ifliineit. -♦f^ ■?■ A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. a4P their drink j they know of no other beverage than water. The very fmell of wine or brandy difguftcd them i they likewife fliewed iheir averfion to tobacco, fpices, and in general to every thing ilrong. The inhabitants of Taiii confift of two races of men, There are ^ two ricei of very different from each other, but fpcaking the fame ."J'^* •" »•»• language, having the fame cudoms, and feemingly mix- ing without di{lin(5lion. The firft, which is the mod numerous oi^, produces. men of the greateft fize; it is very common to fee them meafure fix (Paris) feet and upwards in height. I never faw men better made, and whofc limbs were more proportionate : in order to paint a Hercules or a Mars, one could no where' find rfuch. beautiful ntfodels. Nothing diflinguiilics their features from thofe of the Europeans : and if they were cloathed ; if they lived-lefs in the open air, and wefelefs .cxpofed to the fun at rio6ii, they would be as white us ourfelvea: their hair in general is black. The fecond sace are of a middle fize, have frizzled hair as hard as briftles, and both jnicolbwr -and featui'cs they differ but little from mulaitocsV The Taiti man who embarked with us, is of this fecond race, though his father is chief of a diftria: : but be poffefles in underftandin^ what' he wants in. beauty', .-s^tii ui .'iaifiSi? w' ^nt -l:.' i i'hui-j -■ I?' Both races" let th« lower part of the beard grow. Account of but they aUh^'ve their whifkers, and the upper part of cX'"*- t*.» Kk the m 250 1 It ■■*'■ ^' i The'ir drefs. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WOULD. the cheeks (haved. They likewife let ajl tbeir naiU grow, except that on the middle finger of the right handk Some of tl^c^n cut their hair very ftiort, others let it grow, and wear it faftened on the top of the head. They have all got the coftom of anointing or oiling it And their beard with cocoa-nut oil. 1 have met with only a fingle crippk amongft them; and he feemed to have been maimed by a fall. Our furgeon allured, me, that he had on feveral of them obferved marks of the fmalUpox i and I took all poifiible meafures to prevent our people's communicating the other ibrt to them ; as I could not fuppofe that they were already infe^ed with it. rv :. , w- The inhabitants of Taiti are often feen quite naked, having wo other clothes than a faih; which covers their natural parts. However, the chief people atnong them generally wrap themfelves in a great piece of cloth, which hangs down to their knees. This is likewife the only drefs of the women ; and they know how to place it fo artfully, as to make this fimple drefs fufceptible •of coquetry. As the women of Taiti never go out into the fun, without being coveredj and always have a lit- tle hat, -nade of canes, and adorned with flowers, to defend their faces againft its rays ; their complexions are, of courfe, much fairer than thofeof the men. Their features are very delicate ; but what diiUnguiihes them 6 is A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 251 is the beauty of their bodies, of which the contour has not been disfigured by a torture of fifteen years dura- tion. Whilft the women in Europe paint their cheeks red, Cuiiom of * * puncturing thofe of Taiti dye their loins and buttocks of a deep '^* '^'"* blue. This is an ornament, and at the fame time a mark of diftindVion. The men are fubjed to the fame faChion. I cannot fay how they do to imprefs thefe in- delible marks, unlefs it is by pundhiring the fkin, and pouring the juice of certairi herbs upon it, as I have feen it pra geons admired tiie fears which they faw. t I Ihall, towards the cod of this chapter, give an ac- count of what I have been able to difcover, concerning their form of government, the extent of the power of their petty fovereigns, tlie kind of diflin(5lion exiiUng be- tween the men of note and the common people $ and» laftly, the ties which unite together, under the fame au- thority, this muhitude of robuft men, whofe wants are fo few. I ihall only obferve here, that in matters of confequence, the lord of the diftridt does not give his decifion without the advice of a covmcil. I have men- tioned above, that a deliberation of the people of note in • ;' the nation was required on the fubjeft of our eftablifli- ing a camp on fhore. I muil add too, that the chief feems to be implicitly obeyed by every body ; and that the men of note have likcwife people to ferve them, and over whom they have an authority. Cuftoms on It is vcry difficult to give an account of their religion* oHhcir dead. We have fccu woodcu ftatues among them, which we tool?: for idols i but how did they worlhip them ? The only reli- gious ceremony, which we have been wituefles to, con- cerns the dead. They preferve their corpfes a long while, extended on a kind of fcafibld, covered by a (hed. The infedion which they fpread does not pre- vent the women from going to weep around the corpfei dur- '{ ■ ■ ■ A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 255 during part of the day, and from anointing the cold re- licks of their afFedtion with cocoa-nut oil. Thofe wo- men, with whom we were acquainted, would fome- timcs allow us to come near thefe places, which arc conCa'ated to the manes of the deceafed ; they told us emoff^ he deeps. When nothing but the fkeletons remain, they carry fbem into their houfes, and I do not know how long they keep them there. I only know, becaufe I have :ieen it, that then a man of coniideration among the people comes to exercife his facred rites there j and that in thefe awful ceremonies, be wears ornaments which are much in requeft. We have afked Aotourou many quettions concerning superfthion bis religion ; and believe, we underftood that, in ge- ders.* neral his countrymen are very fuperftitious j that the priefts have the higheH authority amongft them j that betides a fuperior being, named Eri-t-Era, king of the fun or of light, and whom they do not reprefent by any material . image, they have feveral divinities j fome beneficent, others mifchievous ; that the name of thtfe divinities or genii is Eatoua j that they fuppofe, that at each important a<5tion of human life, there prefides a good and an evil genius i and that they decide its good or bad fuccefs. What we underftand with certainty is, that when the moon has a certain arpe<^, which -hey call Malama Tamaif or moon in ftate of v/ar *, (an afped in • Lune en itat de Gutrrt* which i V :ll! 1 2s6 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 1:* 1 '.-■ 1 K 11; ^^^-fi Polygamy. 'IW^ which we have not been able to diftinguifli any charac- tcriCtic mark, by vfhich it could be defined) they facri- . lice human: vi(5lia)8. Of all their cuftoms, one which mod furprifed, me, is that of faluting thofe who fneeze by faying, Evaroua-t-eaiouat that the good eatoua may a- waken thee, or thajt the. evil eatoua may not lull thee a- fleep. Thefe are niarks which prove, that they have the fame origin with the people of the old continent. Upon the whole, fcepticifm is reafonable, efpecially when we treat of the religion of diflferent nations j as there is no fubjcift in which it is more eafy to be deceiv- ed by appearances. . .1 Polygamy feems eft^blifhed amongft them j at leafl it is fo amongft the chief people. As love is their only paf- lion, the ^reat number of wpmen is the only luxury of the opulent. Their children are taken care of, both by their fathers and their mothers. It is not the cuftom at Taiti, that the men occupied only with their fifliery and their wars, leave to the weaker fex the toilfome works of hufbandry and agriculture. Here a gentle indolence falls to the fhare of the women ; and the endeavours to pleafe, are their moft ferious occupation. I cannot fay whether their marriage is a civil contra<5V, or whether it is confecrated by religion ; whethej; it is indiiToluble, or fubjecft to the laws of divorce. Be this as it will, the wives owe their hulbands a blind fubmilfion ; they ,- . ,,.. . ,. would ./ A VOYAGE ROUND TilE WOELD. ^S7 CO 1. 1 would wafli with their blood arty infidelity committed without their hulbands' confcnt. That, it is true, is eaiily obtained j and jealonfy is fo unknown a paffion here, that the huftand is commonly tlie firft who per- fuadet his wife to yield to another. An unmarried vfo- man fuflfers no conftrarnt on that r.cdount; every thing invites her to follow the inclination of htr Ircart, or the inftindt Of her fenfuafRty ; ^nd public applaufe honours her defeat: nor does it appeat, that how great foevcr the nun^ber of hct previous lovers may have been, it flibuld prove an obftacle to her meeting with a hufband aiiterwards. Theh wherefore fliould (tit refifl the in- flaince fltf th(!t dittiate, or the f^idudti^n of (Examples? The very aitr ?vHich the people brearhei their fongs, their dantes, ailmoft €c«rflamly attended with indecent pof- tuTCS, adB con^itd 'to tdXlt to mind the fweets of* love, all engage to give (henifelves up to them. They dance tfo the found of a^ kind of drum, and when they fmg» they accompany eheit voiecs with ut vetj foft kind of flute, y^hh three or font hofes, whith, as I htvc ob- ferved above, rhcy blow #'ith their nofe. They like- wife pradife a kind of wreflling; which, at the fame' time, i's both exercife and pl?y to thicm. ^ rrtha^ aidcuftctfned' to live conrinualiy irtimerled ' In charaacr of jileafiirei the peopk of TaM h^ve atquii'ed a witly' and **>« '"''"'^'"• hunlomis temper, whic% is the olfspthig 6i eafe and o( L 1 joy. i I 1 i f j Ui -f^wtHI^^^ M • 1 ■ 3^8 Accoatit of fomc of their works. Conllruftion of iheir boats. ■ f; • A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. joy. They likewife contraAed from the fame fource a character of ficklcncf?, ^hich . conilaatly amazed usi Every thing ftrikes them, yet nothing fixes their atten* don : amidft all the new objeds, which we prefentcd to tiiem, we could never fucc^ed in making them attend for two minutes together to any one^ , It feems as if ih« leaft refledion is a toilfome labour for them, and that . they are ftill more avcrfe to the exercifQS of tha mind,, than to thofe of the body* ; ■ r-n' -~ .>r:*-^ ?" I fhall not, however, accufe them of want of under-J (landing Their fkill and ingenuity in the few neceflary in-» ftances of induftry, which noiwithftandingithe abundance of the country, and the temperature of the Clitnate thcy cannot difpenfe with, would be fufficient to deftroy fuch aflertion. It is amazing with how much art their filh-. ing tackle is contrived ; their hooks are made: pf mother* of- pearl, as. neatly wrought as if they were made by the help of our tools ; their nets are exactly like ours ; and knit with threads, taken from the grea^ American Jhs» We admired the conftrudlion of their extenfive houfes, and the difpofition of the leaves of the tbatch-palm, with which they are covered. s. They have two forts of pcriaguas; fome are little, andj without much ornament} being made of a fingle ftem of a tree hollowed out ; the others are much larger, and- wrought with much art. A hollo>v tree forms, the hot-, [J tona •x-1 ■ ■ 4\ *^ 1 ^ < - " I ' ,■ . ., . rt * * Mi I n/uri n ^ -^ '. y l«.; , . ffi^ » .-^ i •• It thv \»ff ■-., •■)4. / ■♦. .f. (. (ft'^ti ♦ W •*■«'.■ <" ' / y/ > V « , «■ .•• ' . •^;,*. 'cr- 'J >rr> .f."- •/ { f ^-'K I /f; .. '■>' yr iU 7 ■». I •» .^1 u-< »*)• .:■(■■: i^i^^i: ./j4f44,^vv.^- :.j li' -• rl. »/-^''V )^' ^' /■ *f Mf-^t v/i'fV^ •>ft a :v. ^^^ >tf -yfi X^t >>, i: !■ nil *r ?t .«» ir«'f -! • U •it ^ fm^\ ^i> *ifv af^r}#r-»o> Ml '%f?> l>f jl: J«: fV. i;': ?< i ,;» t>'» i'M <■-' '< i.,4 r f ti ;.•,<■ n **fJ: rj-*/ i.ju; ll Ij *l • Canoe o/ ^fl>^ ///i ofWai'iv ytAr)rs, u/uA/ • sail. I/idf(i/i Clm/fflr. o^'titrt, •*• f n I /' ..' ; w ;( I ' 1^ .■•titi '■^ (,.' , •<;,t,' ■> ,. , ^/iMfJifff iso. I/t(f/(i/f ra/fof. fyfhfi/fr o/TJlHvsm/ / 'tmift. Cajwr, o/y/,r,ry/r o/Trnfr, „„r/rr s^/ ■. V f( **f f rf f r» /?T f, ji f •. r /m • (s I'i '■ -1 'I'l.r 1 ■'-. ■ "■', ■i:':l,i.4 ?'^ ^i«> i */<>«>• yj/jfr ?.f«;, ♦^ »,.,,. ' ""^f • "-v fh/vtr-.. ray/r^r, o/yi>r,//r ofrmfr. rotrfrrs^f. M*i:.i; ^^ -?fci#. ■;' :-:'''' i^'**;ij'V ^- % i *1 1^ » ■':' A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. * • torn of the periagua ; from the head, to two-thirds of tlie intended length, another tree forms the back part, which is bent,' and greatly elevated j in fo much, that the extremity of the ftcrn rifes five or fix feet above the water. Thefe two pieces arc joined together, as an arch of a circle ; and as they have no nails to faften I hem together with, they pierce the extremity of both pieces in feveral places, and by the means of ftrings, (made of the filaments which furroiind cocoa-nuts) they tie them together. The fides of the periagua are raifed by two boards, about one foot broad, fewed to the bot- tom, and to each other, with the preceding fort of firings. They fill the fcams with the fibrous fubfiance round cocoa-nuts ; but do not cover or pay them with any coating. A plank, which covers the head of the periagua, and projedts about five or fix feet beyond ir, prevents its plunging entirely into the water, when there is f. great fea. To make thefe light boats lefs fubje(5t to overfct, they fix an out-rigger to one of its fides. This is nothing more than a pretty long piece of wood, fupponed by two crofs pieces, of about four or five feet in length ; the other end of which is faften- ed to the periagua. When flic is failing, a plank pro- jetSls along the fide, oppofite to the out-riggcr ; a rope is faftened to it, which fupports the mail, and it like- wife makes the periagua flifier, by placing a man or a weight at the end of the plank. ''■ I Vit> 'a iS9 ( f h '1 !i'4,' ' ■ ^ I ' i,f -■. i ; 't "'i. "'! fl.,i ^0 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD... f Tbek wgenuity appears flill moi^e to advantage in tj)f i?iean» liiey employ to render thcfe vefleU proper to tranfport them to the neighbouring illes, with which Xh^y have a i^Dmmunication, having no other guides than thq ftars on fuch navigarion?. They faften two» great p'^rsaguaa together along^de of each other, (leav- ing about four feet diflance between them] by means pf forae crofs pieces of wood tied very faft to the ftar- board of one and larboard of the other boat. Over the. f\pm of thfife two veflels thus joined, they place a hut, . of a vigry light conftruftion, covered by a roof of reeds. This apartment £helters them from the fun and rain, aji^ att ,^he fame tirric affords them a proper place for keeping thciy provifions dry. Thefe double neriaguas can cf.,ita>n a great number of perfons, and are never in dangepof ovciifctting. We have always feen the chiefs ipake ufe of them; they are navigated boMi by a fail and by oars, as the fingle periaguas : the fails are com- pofed of mats, extended on a fquare frame, formed by canes, of which one of the angles is rounded. '»^* ,®^»s The Taiti; people have no other tool for all thefe works than a chiflel, the blade of which is made of a very hard black ftone *. It is exa<5lly of the fame form ■Cl ♦ The f^onc employed by the inhabitants of Otahitee foi- chiflcls and other tools, and even for ornaments to be hung in the ears, is by ail appearances a kind of /-j/n Kephnticus, which when tranfparent is pale-green, very fuft, and employed wr the luttcr purpofe ; but when opaque, it is qi a tlec^yf hu§ wdljaidcr. in South A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 26t as tliat of €air carf>cnters, and they ufe it with great expertnefs : they ufe very iharp pieces of flielJs to bore holes into the wood. lurH^'^n't-^ ^Hi -<^ rfr^irlt i 'rnJriiA^ri v* The manufafturing of that Angular cloth, of which Their doths, their drefa is made up, is likewife one of their greatell arts. It ia prepared from the rind of a fhrub, which all the inhabitants cultivate around their houfcs. A fquare piece of hard wood, fluted on its four fides by furrows of different fizcs, is made ufe of in beating the bark on a fmooth board : they fprinkle fome watc. on it during this operation, and thus they at laft form a very equal fine cloth, of the nature of paper, but much more pliable, and lefs apt to be torn, to which they give a great breadth. They have feveral forts of ir, of a greater or lefs thicknefs, but all manufadlured from the fame fubflance : I am not acquainted with their methods of dying them, "•i^f'^i^^ m^ ^rii -; flr^rtT'io ^m aArtr^ ' South America t'ae fame kitul of flouc is cinployeci by the natives for oin^msnts ; and is much valued among the Topayoi, or Tapuyap, a nation in the ititeiior ^larts of Brafil, living alojig the river of that name, wkich \J1» into tlio river _ Araazons. This ftonc is called tapuravai by the Galibis, a nation in Guiana ; the Europeans fettled in thefe parts of the \M)rld, calHt the /hrtcK.oif i'Ji>)ni\ ihfe European jewel- lers think it to lie "3. jade, a kind of precious (lone of the fame colour brought from the eaft. It is faid that ftones of this kitul are found near the rivt-r St. J.igo, forty miles from Quito, in the province of las KfrneraJdas, in Peru. Tiicy grow more and more fcarce, being nuicli coveted by the nations of Guiana, the TapuyaSj and fome other Indian nations, and likewife frcqncr.tly bought up by the Euro- peans. Barrere Notivellc Relation lU 'r France e^uimffiaU, Paris 1743, luul Con- D AMINE Relation abregk d'nn Voyage fait tn defandmt lu Riviert dts Amazona^ Paris 1746. F. . •-■ ^ . . i.'-> ■/ij»J ( ' i ■■1 ,.. I fliali I 1. vm. m m I ; i ■ 1 .0 'I: ; i ! 1 Fiance. Reirons for which 1 took him. 2(52. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, Account of I (hall conclude this chapter in exculpating myfelf, the '/'aiti- ^ r i. • man, whom for pcoplc obligc Hic to ufe this word, for havmg pro- fited of the good will of Aotourou, and taken him on a voyage, which he certainly did not exped: to be of fuch a length ; and likewife, in giving an account of the information he has given me concerning his coun- try, during the time that he has been with me. f^ . -- The zeal of this iflander to follov/ us was unfeigned. The very firfl day of our arrival at Taiti, he manifefted it to us in the mod expreifive manner, and the nation feemed to applaud his projecSt. As we were forced to fail through an unknown ocean, and fure to owe all the aflillance and refrefliments on which our life de- pended, to the humanity of the people we fliould meet with, it was of great confequence to us to take a man on board from one of the moft coniiderable iflands in this ocean. It was to be fuppofed that he fpoke the fame language as his neighbours, that his manners were the fame, and that his credit with them would be decifive in our favour, when he (hould inform them of our proceedings towards his countrymen, and our be- haviour to him. Befides, fuppofing our country would profit of an union with a powerful people, living in ihe middle of the fineft countries in the world, we could have no better pledge to cement fuch an alliance, than the eternal obligation which we were going to confer (., vu^.. :ik._ i .^'^ on A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 2(^3 Paris. r on this nation, by fending back their fellow-country- man well tr£ated by us, and enriched by the ufeful knowledge which he would bring them. Would to God that the neceflity and the zeal which infpired us, may not prove fatal to the bold Aotourou ! I have fpared neither money nor trouble to make Hiiftayat his day at Paris agreeable and ufeful to him. He has been there eleven months, during which he has not given any mark at all of being tired of his flay. The defire of feeing him has been very violent ; idle curio* fity, which has ferved only to give falfe ideas lo men whofe coiiftant practice it is to traduce others, who never went beyond the capital, never examine any thing, and who being influenced by errors of all forts, never caft an impartial eye upon any objeifl, and yet pretend to decide with magifterial fe verity, and without appeal'. How, faid fome of them to me, in this man's country the people fpeak neither French^ nor EngliQi, nor Spa- nifli ? What coulcj I anlwer them ? I was ftruck dumbj however, it was not on account of the furprize at hearing fuch a quellion afked. I was ufed to them, becaufe I knew that at my arrival, many of thofe who even pafs for people of abilities, maintained that I had not made the voyage round the world, becaufe I had not been in China. Some other fharp critics conceived and pro- pagated a very mean idea of the poor iflander, becaufe, ' after i-.l «,i i fe I '^ 1 ^ if F^^',':;;;-^;^' !1 264. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, after a ftay of two years amongft Frenchmen, he could kardly fpcak a few words of the language. Do not we fee every day^ faid they, that the Italians, Englilh, and Germans learn the French in fo fhoit a time as one . year at Paris ? I could have anfwered them perhaps with fome reafon, that, befides the phyfical obfbcle in the organs of fpeech of this inlander, (which ihall be men- tioned in the fcqoiel) which prevented his becoming Gonverfant in bur language, he was at leaft thifty years old J that his memory had never been cxercifed by any kind of ftudy, nor had his mind ever been at work ; that indeed an Italian, an Engldihnian,^ a German could in a year's time %eak at Fr«ncb jargon tolerably well, but that was not firange at all, as tliefe flrangers bad' rt grammar like ours, as their moral, phyfical, po>- titical^ and focial ideas were the fame with ours>, and all expiciled by certain, words in their language as they are ia French j that they had accordingly n6 more than a tranilation to fix in their memory, which liad been exetted f-'om their very infancy. The Taij:i«-man, on the contrary, only having a fmall number of ideas, relative on the one hand to a moft fimple and moft limited fociety, and on the other, to wants which are reduced to the imalleft number poflible ; he would have been obliged^ fiilt of all, as I may fay, tO' create a woiid of previous ideas, in a n-ind which is as iadotent as his body, bK=- 6 fore A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. fore he could come fo far as to adapt to them the words in our language, by which they are exprefled. All this I might perhaps have anfwered : but this de- tail required fome minutes of time, and I have always obferved, that, loaded with queftions as I was, whenever I was going to anfwer, the perfons that had honoured me with them were already far from me. But it is common in a capital to meet with people who afl^ queftions, not from an impulfe of curiofity, or from a defire of acquiring knowledge, but as judges who are preparing to pronounce their judgment ; and whether they hear the anfwer or no, it does not prevent them from giving their deciflon *. ^r". \*¥ ftvuj ,^ ^'t; 4. - Hov/ever, though Aotourou could hardly blabber out fomc words of our language, yet he went out by himfelf every day, and pafled through the whole town without once miffing or lofing his way. He often made fome purchafes, and hardly eVer paid for things beyond their real value. The only Ihew which pleafed him, was the opera, for he was exceffively fond of dancing. He knew perfedlly well upon what days this kind of entertainment was played ; he went thither * Though our author has ftrongly pleaded in this paragraph in behalf of Ao- tourou, it cannot, however, be denied that he was one of the moft ftupid fellows ; which not only has been found by Engliflimcn who faw him at Paris, during his ftay there, and whofe teftimony would be dccifive with the public, were I at li- berty to name them ; but the very countrymen of Aotourou were, .vithout excep- tion, all of the fiune opinion, that lie had very moderate parts, if any at all. F. '■ " -^ ^ *M m -" bv a<$^ , I 266 1 ' rt J 1 f 16 s intirf I'l M His depar- ture from France. Steps taken to fend him home. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. by himfelf, paid at the door the fame as every body elfe, and his favourite place was in the galleries behind the boxes *. Among the great number of perfons who have been defirous of feeing him, he always diftin- guifhed thofe who were obliging towards him, and his grateful heart never forgot them. He was particularly attached to the duchefs of Choifeul, who has loaded him with favours, and efpecially fhewed marks of concern and friendfliip for him, to which he was in- finitely more fenfible than to prefents. Therefore, he wouldj of his own accord, go to vifit this generous benefadlrefs as often as he heard that Hie was come to town. , , , He left Paris in March, 1770, and embarked at Rochelle, on board the BriiTon, which was to carry him to the Ifle de France. During this voyage he has been trufted to the care of a merchant, who went a pailenger in the fame fhip, which he had equipped in part. The miniftry have fent orders to the governor and the in- tendant of the Ifle of France, to fend Aotourou home to his ifle from thence. I have given a very minute account of the courfe that mufl; be taken in order to go thither, and thirty-fix thoufand francs, (about fifteen hundred pounds flerling) which is the third part of my * In the French theatre there is, in the door of each box, a finall windotpor hole, where people may peep through, which made itpoflible to Aotourou to enjoy even In the galleries the fight of the dancers. F. , ' * -.i' K .1; ■ :vU3 i ' : '■'. )il t >; 270 Cuftom of going into mournine. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. is known, that by bending the branches of this tree, and planting ihcm in the ground, you can extend its Ihadowasfar as you will, and in wbatdire(flionyGuplcafe; at Taiti, their fliadc affords the dining-hall of their kings. The grandees have liveries for their fervants. In proportion as the mafter's rank is more or lefs elevated, their fervants wear their fallies more or lefs high. This fafh is faftened clofe under the arms, in the fervants of the chiefs, and only covers the loins in thofe belonging to the loweft clafs of nobility. The ordinary hours of repail, are when the fun palTes the meridian, and when he is fet. The men do not eat with the vomen j the latter ferving up the diihes, which the fervants have prepared. _ . .^ ^^ At Taiti they wear mourning regularly, and call it ccva. The whole nation wear mourning for their kings. The mourning for the fathers is very long. The wo- men mourn for their hufbands j but the latter do not do the fame for them. The marks of mourning, are a head-drefs of feathers j the colour of which is confe- crated to death, and a veil over the face. When the people in mourning go out of their houfes, they are pre- ceded by feveral Qaves, who beat the caftanets in a cer- tain cadence ; their doleful found gives every body no- tice to clear the way, whether out of refped for the grief of the perfons in mourning, or becaufe meeting them A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 271 them is feared as an unlucky and ominous accident. However at Taiti, as in every other part of the world, the mod refpccftable cuHoms are abufed ; Aotourou told me, that this practice of mourning was favourable to the private meetings j doubtlefs, as I believe, of lovers with wives, whofc hufbands are not very complaifant. The inftrument, whofe found difperfes every body, and the veil which covers the face, fecure to the lovers both iecrecy and impunity. In all difeafes, which are any way dangerous, all the Reciprocal near relations affemble in the fick perfon's houfc. iheir difcafes» They eat and fleep there as long as the danger lafts ; every one nurfes him, and watches by him in his turn. They have likewife the cuftom of letting blood j but this operation is never performed at the foot or arm. A Taoua, i. e. a dodor, or inferior prieft, ftrikes with a fliarp piece of wood on the cranium of the patient y by this means he opens the fagittal vein ; and when a fufficient quantity of blood is run out, he furrounds the head with a bandage, which {huts up the opening ; the next day he wa(hes the wound with water. This is all that I have learnt concerning the cuftoms of this interefting country, both upon the fpot, and from my converfations with Aotourou. At the end of this work I fhall add a Vocabulary of as many Taiti words as I could colleft. When we arrived at this ifland, we obfervcd I ■-.^-CT,aitgaa*» 9 ' WjJ H iBfj. « ; .^J ! '-'I I !l 27a A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. obfcrved that fome of the words pronounced by the ifhinders flood in the vocabulary at the end of Le Mairc'a Voyage, under the name of Vocabulary of Cocos iflund. Indeed thofe iflands, according 10 Le Maire and Schou- tcn's reckoning, cannot be far from Taiti, and perhaps may be fome of thofe which Aotourou named to mc. The language of Taiti is foft, harmonius, and eafy to be pronounced ; its words arc compofed of almoft mere vowels, without afpirares*. You meet with no nafal, nor no mute and half founded fyllables, nor that quantity of confonants, and of articulations which ren- der fome languages fo difficult. Therefore our Taiii- man could never learn to pronounce the French. The fame reafons for which our language is accufed of not being very mufical, rendered it inacceffible to his or- gans. It would have been eafier to make him pronounce Spanifli or Italian. M. Percire, celebrated for hi; ^rt of teaching people, who are born deaf and dumb, to fpeak and articulate words, has examined Aotourou feveral times, and has found that he could not naturally pronounce moft of our confonants, nor any of our nafal vowels. M. Pereire has been fo obliging as to communicate to me a me- ■♦ The contrary, of the laft mentioned circumftance, has been obferve-i by our Englifli navigators j and it is therefore highly probable Mr. de B. picked up his vo- cabulary of words from Aotourou, who had an impediment in his fpeech. F. moir A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. *73 moir on this fubje(n;. Upon the whole, the language of this ifland is abundant enough i I think fo, bccaufc Aotou« rou, during the courfe of the voyage, pronounced every thing that flruck him in rhythmic ftanzas. It xvras a kind of blank verfc, which he fpoke extempore. Thefe were his annals ; and it feems as if his language furniOied him with expreflions fufficient to defcribe a number of objeds un- •^ known to him. We further heard him pronounce eve- ry day fuch words as we were not yet acquainted with > and he likewife fpokie a long prayer, which he calls the prayer of the kings, and of all the words that compofe it, I do not underftand ten. • • • I learnt from Aotourou, that about eight months be- fore our arrival at his ifland, an Englifli ihip had touch- ed there. It is the fame which was commanded by Mr* Wallace. The fame chance by which we have difcover- ed this ifle, has likewife conduced the Englifh thiiher, whilft wc lay in Rio de la Plata. They ll&yed there a month ; and, excepting one attack of the iflanders, who had conceived hopes of taking the fliip, every thing has pafled very friendly between them. From hence, doubt- lefs, proceeds the knowledge of iron, which we found among the natives of Taiti, and the name of aourit by which ihey call it, and which founds pretty like the Ea- glifli word iron, I am yet ignorant, whether the peo- N n pie n ji Mi P Hiir '?^: ^ ■^l;S-i J'l <;■' ilj 'Vi, ' i! 274 1768. ApriU Sight of Ou- mauia> A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. pie of Taiti, as they owe the firft knowledge of iron to the Englifli, may not likewife be indebted to them for the venereal difeafe, w'-uch we found had been naturalized amongft them, as will appear in the fequel. 1,. .. 1.. .'■' • t-' f I \ T'Ti'"l^ Departure from 'taiti j difco*oery of other iflands ; navigation ioi a? > w =r>v .^-»!r our clearing the great Cycladeu < ris v-. :-f iw/* /^UR touching at Taiti has been produdive of good, i^^' and of difagreeable confequences j danger and alarms followed all our fleps to the very laft moments of ourftay^ yet we confidered this coantry asa friend, whom we mud love with all his faults. On the i6th of April, at eight o'clock in the morning, we were a- bout ten leagues N. E. by N. of the north point of the ifland, and from hence i took my departure. At ten o'clock we perceived land to leeward, fecming to form three iflcs^ and we were ftill in fight of Taiti. At noon we plainly faw, that what we had taken for three ifles, was no more than a flngle one, whofe eminences had appeared as feparate ifles at a diflance. Beyond this sew land, we ^houghc we faw another at a greater dii*. i.yi ^;:'h '■rr'i u:)X'.;" \aC\<\ tance» ■i-^ A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. ijs tance. This iflc is of a middling height, and covered with trees ; it may be feen at fea, about eight or ten leagues diilant. Aotourou called it Oumaitia. He gave us to underftand, in a manner Vfhich admitted of no doubt, that it was inhabited by a nation allied to his, that he had been there feveral times, that he had a mif- trefs there, and that we fliould .meet with the fame re- ception and refrefliments there as at Taiti. We loft fight of Oumaitia this day, and I direded my Direaion of courfe fo as to avoid the Pernicious Ifles, which we were taught to fhun, by the difafters of admiral Roggewein. Two days afterwards, we had an inconteftable proof, that the inhabitants of the iiles in |he Pacific Ocean communicate with each other, even at confiderable diftances. The night was very fair, without a fingle cloud, and all the ftars (hone very bright. Aotourou. after attentively obferving them, pointed at the bright fiar in Orion's fhoulder, faying, we ibould direnjq'^> a^sii *<■ 7 »!•'«* -ju^, fi.ds During the Utter end of April we had very fine wea- ther» but ttot much wind, and the eafterly winds kept more to the northward. than fouthward. On the night between the 2^th and 27 th, our pilot of the coail of :.. 6 '. France !{;„ A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. France died fuddenly of an apoplexy, Thefe pilots ge- nerally are called eoafting pilots *, and all the J.ing's fhips have a pilot of the coaft of France f. They differ from thofe of the crew who are called pilots, and iinder- pilots, or pilot's boys J. The world has a very inac- curate idea of the funftions which thefe pilots exercife on boai*d our (hips. They are generally thought to be the perfons who direct the courfe, and who ferve as a ftafF and ftipport to the blind. I know not whether there is ftill any nation where they leave the art of piloting, that eflential part of navigation, to thofe fub- altern people. In our fliips, the buiinefs of the pilot is to take care that the helmfman exacSlly follows the courfe, for which the captain alone gives the orders, to mark down all the alterations of the courfe that happen, either in confequence of the changes of winds, or of the orders of the commander, and likewife to ob- ferve the fignals j nor have they the care of all thefe particulars, but under the direftion of the officer of the watch. The fuperior officers of the king's navy cer- tainly know more of geometry, even at leaving fchool, than is neceffary to have a perfed knowledge of all the laws of pilotage. The clafs of pilots, properly fo called, are moreover charged with the care of the common a?? • Piletts-tStiers. piloUs, Qu Pihtins, t Fiht$-prati^Ht (tt la (Stt dt Francu % PiUttit Aldf and •"^»««»S„. r > k > » ",'*< \m m t! w> I li Aftronomical obfervations. 278 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.^ and azimuth compalFes, of the log and founding lines, of the lanthorns, the colours, &c. and it is plain, that thefe particulars require nothing more than exa<5tners. Nor was my mailer-pilot above twenty years old, the fecond pilot was of the fame age, and the pilots boys* were making their firft voyage. '* ' ; 5 "i^ . ;?^'^' ,' •. My reckoning compared twice during this month, with M. Verron's aftronomical obfervaiions, differed, the firft time, and that was at Taiti, only i / i o'\ which I was more to the weft ward. The fecond time, which was the 27 th at noon, 1° 13' 37^^, which I was to the Second divi- caftward of the obfervation. The different ifles dif- covered during this month, form the fecond dividon of ifles in this vaft ocean ; .1 named them Archipelago of Bourbon. . ^iii'ijyi-st /isifr "in^ The third of May, almoft at day-break, we difcovered more land to the north weft, about ten or twelve leagues off. The wind was north eafterly, and I gave orders to ftand to windward of the north point of the land, which was very high, intending to reconnoitre it. The nautical knowledge of Aotourou did not extend to thefe places, for his firft idea when he faw this land, was, that it was our country. During the day we had fome fqualls, followed by calms, rain, and wefierly breezes, fuch as are obferved in this ocean at the approach of Ma/. Sight of new iflatids. :,«<<» Aiitt'piUUs, the A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 279 the lead land. Before fun-fet we diilinguiflied three ifles, one of which was much more confiderahle than the others. During the night, which happened to be moon-light, we kept fight of the land ; we flood in for it the next day, and ranged the eadern Ihore of the greater iile, from its fouth to its north point ; that was its longeft fide, being about three leagues long. The ?• -^~ i£le extends two leagues eaft and weft. Its ihores are every where fteep, and the whole ifle is as it were no- thing more than a high mountain, covered with trees up to its fummit, without either vallies or plains. The fea broke very violently upon the fliore. We faw fires on the ifiand, fome huts covered with reeds> and ter- minating in a point, built under the fliadow of cocoa- trees, and about thirty men running along the fea fliore. The two little ifles bear W» N. W. correfted, and one league diftant from the great one, and have like- wife the fame fituation among themfelves. A narrow arm of the fea feparates them, and at the W. point of the weftermoft ifle, there is a fmall ifle or key. Each of the above two is not more than half a league long, and their fliores are equally high and fleep. ^-* ^--^ - f *; At noon I made fail to pafs between the little ifles Exchange! and the great one, when the fight of apcriagua coming the iarndm. towards us, mjldcnie bring to. She approached with- in piftol jlhot of the /liip, but none of her people would come 7 I »T:»**^.f .t; ■; [flu Wi im ■' ; 'fi i III:: fl,' '^^ M < I'M ! ! ftSo A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. come on board, nott vations.^ ' "v.rsi-lrn A, VOYAGE ROrND THE WORLD. fcem to form a chain under the fame meridian ; they make the third divifion, which we have named / 'ylrchipel des NavigaieurSf or Archipelago of the Navigators ♦. (fif^ On the I I th in the morning, having fteered W. by S. fince wc got fight of the laft ifles, we difcovered a land bearing W. S. W. feven or eight leagues diftant. At firft it was thought they were two feparate ifles, and we \vcre kept at a diftance from them all day by a calm. On the I 2 th we found that it was only one ifle, of which, the two elevated parts were connected by a low land, feemingly bending like a bow, and forming a bay open to the N. E. The high land lies N. N. W. A head wind prevented our approaching nearer than fix or fevent leagues of tbis ifland, which I named / 'Enfant Perdu, or engraved on an oak plank, and after that we embarked in our boats again. This early departure, doubtlefs, ruined the proje<5t of the iflanders to attack us, becaufe they had noi: yet dif- pofed every thing for that purpofe ; at leafl we were inclined to think fo, by feeing them advance to the fea-fliore, and fend a ihower of {tones and arrows after us. Some mufkets fired off into the air, were not fuf&cient to rid us of them ; many advanced into the water, in order to at- tack lis with more advantage y another difcharge of mufkets, better dire(5led, immediately abated their ar- dour, and they fled to the woods with great cries. One. of our failors was flightly wounded by a ftone. > Thefe iflanders are of two colours, black and mulat- toes. Their lips are thick, their hair woolly, and fome- times of a yellowifli colour. They are ftiort, ugly, ill- proportioned, and moft of them infe<5ted with leprofy ; a circumflancc from which we called the ifland they in- habit, A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 291 habir, Ifle of Lepers (IJk des Lepreux), There appeared but few women j and they were not lefs difagreeable than the men » the latter are naked, and hardly cover their natural parts ; the women wear fome bandages to carry their children on their backs ; we faw fome of the cloths, of which they are made, on which were very pretty drawings, made with a fine crimfon colour. I obferved that none of the men had a beard ; they pierce their nofe, in order to fix fome ornaments to it. They likewife wear on the arm, in form of a bracelet, the tooth of a babyroufla, or a ring of a fubftance which I take to be ivory j on the peck they hang pieces of tor^ toife-lhells, which they fignified to us to be very com- mon on their ihores. d i!-.^.,.7r*:^v..t. v-,r ,o^.i,j, .. Their arms are bows and arrows, clubs of iron-wood, Their we « and ilones, which they ufe without flings. The ar- ^°°'' rows are r^eds^ armed with a long and very fliarp point made of a bone. Some of thefe points are fquare, and armed on the edges with little prickles in fuch a manner as to prevent the arrow's being drawn out of a wound. They have likewife fabres of iron-wood. Their periaguas did not come near us j at a diflance they fcemed built And rigged like thofe in the Ifles of Na- vigators. ,,.•: ! ..Ic, . l^.,/ M, . i. :,. ' .. . • , • The beach where we landed was of very little extent. Defcnption At- t r ■, of the place About twenty yards from the fea, you are at the foot of we landed at. P p a a moun- i I I , .1 < 1 I m 1 n n- tp4 A VOYAGE ROtJKfl) THE WORLD; ' a mountain, which is covered with trees, notwithftand- ing its great declivity. The foil is very light, and of no great depth : accordingly the fruits, though of the fame fpecies with thofe at Taiti, are not fo fine and not fo good here. We found a particular fpecies of figs here. There are many paths through the woods, and fpots enclofed by pallifadoes three feet hi^n. We could not determine whether they are intrenchmenis, or mere- ly limits of different polTeffions, We faw no more than five or fix little huts, into which one could not enter othe»'»»vife than by creeping on all-fours ; and we were however furrounded by a numerous people ; I believe they are very wretched, on account of the inteftine war, of which we were witnefles, and which brings great hardfhip» . upon them. We repeatedly heard the hftrlh found of a ' kind ^f drum, coming from the interior parts of the wood, towards the fummit of the mountain. This cer- tainly gives the fignal to rally > for at the moment when the difcharge of our mufkets had difperfed them, it be- gan to beat. It likewife redoubled its found, when that body of enemies appeared, whom we faw feveraF times. Our Taiti-man, who defired to go on fliore with us, feemed to think this fet of men very ugly ; he did not underftand a fingle word of their language. When we came on board, we hoifted in our boats. Continuation ion' Te'^* ^^^^ made fail ftanding to the S. W. for a long coaft lands. ..iica-,:; - •■ . which 1 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLa which we difcovered, extending as far as the eye could reach from S. W. to W. N. W. During night there was but little wind, and it conftantly veered about} fo that we were left to the mercy of the currents, which carried us to the N. E. This weather continued all the 2 4th, and the night following ; and we could hardly get three leagues off the Ifle of Lepers. On the 2 jrth, at five in the morning, we had a very fine breeze at E. S. E. but the Etoilcj being flill. under the land, did not feel r, and remained in a calm. I advanced, however, all fails fetf in order to obferve the land, which lay to weft- ward. At eight o'clock we faw land in all parts of the horizon J and we were, as it were, fhut up in a great gulph. The ifle of Whitfuntide extended on thefouth- fide towards the new coaft we had juft difcovered; and we were not fure whether it was not connedled, or whe- ther what we took to be the feparation was any more than a great bay. Several places in the remainder of the coaft likewife fliewed appearances of paffages, or of great gulphs. Among the reft there feemed to be a very confiderable one to the weft ward. Some periaguas croffed from one land to the other. At ten o'clock we were obliged to ftand towards the Ifle of Lepers again. The Etoile, which could no longer be feen from the maft-head, was ftill becalmed there, though the E. S. E. brecM held out at fea. We ftood for the ftore-lhip till J four a93 • ! *rwftMlbiKMH>Mri|*ta it sj*' illl mn \N'> *' 1 'i: ■■;/'.;■ |..!|# a^4 A VOYAGE KOUND THE WORLD. four o'clock in the evening j for it was not till then that Ihe felt the breeze. It was too late when flie joined us to think of further difcoveries. Thus the day of the 2j:th was loft, and we pafled the night making fliort tacks. The bearings we took on the 26 th, at fun-rifing, (hewed us that the currents had carried us feveral miles to the fouthward, beyond our reckoning. Whitfuntide ille ft ill appeared feparated from the S. W. land, but the parage fcemed narrower. We difcovered feveral other openings on that coaft, but were not able to diftinguilh the number of illes which compofed the Archipelago a- round us. The land feemed to us to extend from E. S. E. to W. N. W. by the fouih (by compafs) j and Ai- a f L we could not fee the termination of it. We fleered from Afpea of the country. N. W. by W. gradually coming round to weft, along a fine fliore covered with trees, on which there appeared great pieces of ground, which were either actually cul- tivated, or feemed to be fo. The country appeared fer- tile j and (pme of the mountains being barren, and here and there of a red colour, feemed to indicate that it contained minerals. As we continued our courfe we came to the great inlet, which we had obferved to the weftward the day before. At noon we were in the middle of it, and obferved the fun's height there. Its opening is five or fix leagues wide j and it runs due E. 6 by A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. l)y S. and W. by N. Some men appeared on the fouth coaft, and fome others came near the fhips in a peri- agua } but as foon as they were within mufket (hot, they would not come nearer, though we invited them ; thefe men were black, •:.-•, We rangied the north coaft at the diftance of three quarters of a league ; it is not very high, and covered with trees. A number of negroes appeared on the fliore ; even fome periaguas came towards us ; but with as little confidence as that which came from the oppoflte coaft. After having run along this, for the fpace c* two or three leagues, we faw a great inlet, feeming to form a fine bay, at the entrance of which were two iflands. I immediately fent our boats well armed to re- connoitre it } and during this time we ftood on our boards, at one or two leagues diftance off Ihore, often founding without finding bottom, with 200 fathom of line. ' ^95 .,, -I t*i tf ^ r. a. iw ■X, About five o'clock we heard a difcharge of mufkets, Attempts to , fi nrch an an- which gave us much concern : it came from one of our chorage. boats, which, contrary to my orders, had feparated from the others, and unluckily was expofed to the attacks of the iflanders, being got quite clofe to the fliore. Two arrows, which were fliot at the boat, ferved as a pre- tence foi the firft difcharge. She then went ^long the coaft, and kept up a brifli fire from her mufliets and pede- 1 1 i i K'tuh m if' iw 2^($ A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. pedereroes, diredling them both -upon the fhore, and upon three periaguas which pafTed by her within reach .of (hot, and had Ihot fome arrows a^t her. A point of ,land intercepted the boat from our fight, and her con- tinual firing gave me reafon to fear that fhe was attack- ed by a whole fleet of periaguas. I was juft going to fend the long-boat to her afliftance, when I faw her quite alone, doubling the point, which had concealed her. Tlie negroes howkd exceflively in the woods, whi- ther they had all retired, and where we could hear their drum beating. I immediately made fignal to the boat to come on board, and I took my meafures to prevent , our being di/honoured for the future, by fuch an abufe . of the fuperiority of our power. What pre- The boats of the Boudeufe found that this <:oaft, which «ho«ing"'herei wc took to bc Continued, was a number of ifles j fo that . the bay is formed by the jundion of feveral channels, which feparate them. However, they found a pretty good fandy bottom there, in 40, 30, and 20 fathom; but its continual inequality rendered this anchorage un- fafe, efpecially for us, who had no anchors to venture. . It v.a3, befides, neceflary to anchor there above half a • league off fhore, as the bottom was rocky nearer the • coaft. Thus the Ihips could not have proteded the boats, and the country is fo woody, that we would have '. been obliged always to have our arms ia hand, in order ' ' : to A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 297 to cover the workmen againft furprizes. "We could not flatter ourfelves that the natives fhould forget the bad treatment they had juft received, and (hould confent to exchange refrefliments. We obfcrved the fame pro- dudiona here as as upon the Ifle of Lepers. The inha- bitants were iikewife of the fame fpecies, almoft ail black, naked, except their nudities, wearing »he fame ornaments of collars, and bracelets, and uung the fame weapons. . ., . . We pailed this night on our boards. On the 2 •; 'h in Another at- the morning we bore away, and ranged the coaft at inhere, about a league's diftance. About ten o'clock we faw, on a low point, a plantation of trees, laid out in walks, like thofe of a garden. Under the trees there was a beaten track, and the foil feemed to be fandy. A con- fiderable number of inhabitants appeared about this part J on the other fide of this point there wa& an ap- pearance of an inlet, and I hoifted the boats out. This was a fruitlefs attempt ; for it was nothing but an el- bow formed by the coaft, and we followed it to the N. W. point, without finding any anchorage. Beyond that point the land returned to N. N. W. and extended as far as the eye could reach ; it was of an extracrdinary height, and fhewed a chain of mountains above the clouds. The weather was dark, with fqualls and rain at intervals. Often in day-time we thought we faw Q^q land ijT-A.-'iMset.iBBfc; ^^-tmmm^ ■i '•ft; -■'|5 2p8 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. land a-head of us ; mere fog banks, which difappcared! when it cleared up. We pafTed all the night, which* was a very llormy one, in plying wiih fliort boardSr. and the tides carried us to the fouthwar4 far beyond our reckoning. Wc faw the high mountains all day on the 28th till fun-fet, when they bore from E. to- N. N. E, twenty or twenty-five leagues diflant. .• .., The 29 th in the morning we faw no moie of the Conjcftures land, having fteered W. N. W, I called the lands we^ Selr"i3. had now difcovered, Archipelago of the great Cyclad^s. {Archipel des grandes Cycladesj, To judge of this Archi- pelago by what we have gone through, and by what we have feen of it at a diftancc, it contains at leaft three* degrees of latitude, and five of longitude. I likewife readily believe that Roggewein faw its northern extre- mity in 11° of latitude, and called it Thienhoven and. Groningen. As for ourfelves, when we fell in with it^ ev^ry thing confpired to perfu^de us that it was the- 'tier r a Jujiral del Efpiritu Santo » Appearances feemed 10 ■ conform to Quiros's account, and what we daily difr covered, encouraged our refearcher It is finguUr enough, that exa(5lly in the fame latitude and longi- tude where C)uiros places his bay of St. Philip and St;, Jago, on a coaft which at firft fight feemed to be that of a continent, we fhould find a pafiage exadlly of the fame breadth which he afligns to the entrance of his, 4 bay,. f:;!-t:;: A VOYAGE ROQND THE WORLD. bay. Has this Spanifh navigator fcen things in a wrong light i Or, has he been willing to difguife his difco- veries ? Was it by guefs that the geographers made this Tieira del Efpiritu Sanio the fame continent with New Guinea? To refolve this problem, it was neceflary to keep in the fame latitude for the fpace of three hundred and fifty leagues further. 1 refolved to do it, though the condition and the quantity of our provifions feemed to give us reafon to make the beft of our way to fomc European fettlement. The event has fhewn that little was wanting to make us the vwJlims of our own per- feverance. ' M, Verron made feveral obfervations during the month of May, and their refults determined our longi- tude on the 5th, 9th, i 3th, and 2 2d. We hat' not till now found fo many differences between the obferva- tions and the fliip's reckoning, all falling on o.ae fide. On the 5 th at noon I was more to the eaft than the ob- ferved longitude, by 4** 00' 42^^; on the 9th, by 4° 2 3' 4'^; on the I 3th, by 3* 38' i s' \ and iadly, on the 2 2d, by 3° 15* All thefe differences (hew, that from the ifle of Taiti, the currents had carried us much to the weftward. By this means it might be explained, why all the navigators who have crofled the Pacific ocean have fallen in with New Guinea much fooner than they ought. They have likewife given this ocean not by far QLil 2 fo 29% Difierence between the reckoning and the ob- feivationi. •■>... f. ^' '^mmm: l1 t' f:l.% r ^i ••I ! ' "i I n. B-.i!. ■(•/: I y /iit/(/r i'\v M. til- UiiuoiiiiivilU' /// /' lis . f'r'lltlllUllf . / ,/" lll./,0il/O /„/l,;„/,„.' \l I !.'> UiuimBluisDHJL- - L-. iir. i.i "■■iiiiiinniii'fflr ■ iwniiiiminniwiii j; - "pmnniEBir. M WlBllliiiaiilliliaH" ~ taiiwiiiiiigBHiM i.iiuiiBaaurjr , ,'.,„, / '\''^-:s. ^-N^ . /'/■ /',/„ . „;„. , 5-« ll IV.//'/ " Bijini nnnnBniiM - i.'t ; ^ 1.: ^■•- =-,a I ! I I r.1 Ml ir A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 303 which hardly rifes above the water j and which, on that account, is a dangerous (hoal for Ihips failing at night, or in hazy weather. It is fo flat, that at two leagues diftance, with a very clear horizon, it can only be feen from the mad head -, it is covered with birds ; I called it the Shoal of Diana {la Bdture de Dlans), • On the ifth, at four o'clock in the afternoon, fome of ©ur people thought they faw the land and breakers to the weftward ; they were miftaken, and we continued our courfe that way till ten in the evening. The re- ' maining part of the night we lay-to, or made fhort boards, and at day-break we refumed our courfe, all fails fet. For twenty-four hours paft, feveral pieces of wood, and fome fruits which we did not know, came by signs of land, the fliip floating : the fea too was entirely fallen, not- wiihftanding the very frefli ?. E. wind that blew, and thefe circumfl:ances together gave me room to believe that we had land pretty near us to the S. E. We like- wife faw a new kind of flying fifli in thofe parts j they are black, with red wings, feem to have four wings inftead of two, and fomewhat exceed the common ones in fize. The 6th, at half an hour paft one o'clock in the af- ternoon, a fand-bank appeared about three quarters of a kague diftant a-head, and convinced me that it waS' time to alter the courfe, which I had always continued to weft^ I 1 IIh 1 II 1 Him i\ ijigs^d^^^M^^^^ki'^ 304 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. ^f. !• ''i Ir.'i I t • J. 'U :!k: ' weftward. This fand extended at leaft half a league from W. by S. to W. N. W. Soine of our people even were of opinion they faw a Ipw land to the S. W. of the breakers. We flood to the northward till four o'clock, and then again to the weftward. This, however, did not laft long ; for at half paft five o'clock, the men at the maft- heads faw irefli breakers to the N. W. and N. W. by W. about a league and a half from us. We approached nearer, in order to view them better. They were feen to extend above two miles from N. N. E. to S. S. W. and we could not fee an end of them. In all probability they joined thofe which we had dil'covered three hours before. The fea broke with great violence on thefc flioals, and fome fummits of rocks appeared above wa- ter from fpace to fpace. This laft difccvery was the voice of God, and we were obedient to it. Prudence not permitting us to purfue an uncertain courfe at night, in thefe dangerous parts, we fpent it making fhort boards in that fpace, with which we had made ourfelves acquainted in the preceding day ; and on the 7 th, in the morning, I gave orders to fteer N. E. by N. abandoning Neceflacy ai- the fchcme of procecding further weflward in the lati- teracion of ike courfe. tude of I 5°. We had certainly great reafon to believe, that the Ti- erra Auftral del Efpiritu Santo was no more than the Ar- chipelago of the great Cyclades, which Quiros took to be A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 305 be a continent, and reprefented vv a romantic light. When I perfevered in keeping in the parallel of 1 5°, it was becaufe I wanted to verify our conjedures, by getting fight of the eaftern coafts of New Holland. Thus, ac- cording to the Aftronomical Obfervaiions, (of which the uniformity for a month, and upwards, was a fufficient proof of their accuracy) we were already, on the 6 th at noon, in 146" eaft lathtwje j that is one degree more to the weftward than the Tierra del Efpiritii Santo, as laid down by M. Bellin. Befides this, our repeated meeting with the breakers, which we had feen thefe three days ; thofe trunks of trees, thefe fruits and fea-weeds, which we found at every moment ; the fmoothnefs of the fea, and the direction of the currents, all fufRciently marked the vicinity of a great land ; and that it already fur- rounded us to the S. E. This land is nothing elfe than ^ ^. . ° Geographical the eaftern coaft of New Holland. Indeed thefe nume- "fleeuons. rous fhoals, running out to fea, are figns of a low land J and when I fee Dampier abandoning in our very latitude of 15° 3/, the weftern coaft of this barren re- gion, where he did not fo much as find frefli water, I conclude that the eaftern coaft is not much better. I {hould willingly believe, arhe does, that this land is a '•' clutter of ifles, the approach to which is made difficult by a dangerous fea, full of fhoals and fand-bank:. Af- ter fuch an explanation, it would have been ralhnefs to - R r rilk 'h «iH -m l-!*.';^ 306 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORtD. rilli nuihlng in Nvith a coaft, from whence no advantage coul'd be cxpe(5lcd, and which one could not get clear of, but by beating againll ihc reigning winds. We had on- ly bread for two month,':, and pulfc for forty days ; the falt-mea was -' greater quantities ; but it was noxious, and we j;- . " v.' the rats to it, which we could catch. Thus it Wu 7 i'<\ means time to go to the northward, and even to deviate a little to the eaftward of our courfe. "' "' ' •■-• •'^^--v; T.1 Unluckily the S. E. wind left us here ; and when it feturned, it put us into the moft dangerous fituation we had as yet been in. From the 7 th, our courfe made good, was no better than N. by E. when on the i oth, at day -break, the land was difcovercd, bearing from eaft Difcoveryof to N. W. Long bcforc the break of day, a delicious fmell announced lis the vicinity of this land, which forms a great gulph cifien to the S. E. I have feeti but few lands, which hott a finer afpecSl than this ; a low ground, divided into plains and groves, lay along the fea-ihore, and from thence it rofe like an amphitheatre up to the mountains, whofe fummits were loft in the clouds. There were three ranges of mountains j and. the higheft chain was above twehty-flve leagues in the interior parts of the country. The wretched conditioh- to which we were reduced, did not allow us, either to fpend fome time in vifiting this beautiful country, that by new lands. A VOYAGE HOUND THE WORLD. 307 by all appearances, was fertile and richi nor to Hand to weftward in fearch of a pallagc on the fouih fide »•* New Guinea, which might open a new and fliori na '• gation to the Molucas, by the gulph of Carpentaria. Nothing, indeed, was more probable, than the exiftcnce of fuch a paflage ; it was even believed, that the land had been feen as far as W. by S. We were now obliged to endeavour to get out of this gulph as foon as poUible, and by the way which fcemed to ^ '^oft open : indeed we were engaged much deeper m than we at firft thought. Here the S. E. wind -XLr-d us, to put our pa- tience to the greateft trials, ' - .. During the joih, the calu ^dt us at the mercy of Critical iitua- _ _ > tion in \vhii.h a great loum-ealtern iwell, which hove us towards the ^e arc. land. At four o'clock in the evening, we were no more t]ian thrpe quarters of a league diftance from a little low ifle, to the eaftern point of which lies connected a ledge, which extends two or three leagues to the eaft- ward. Towards five o'clock we bad brought our head oiF, and we pafled the night in this dreadful fituation, making all our efforts to get off fliore with the leaft lircezes. On the 1 ith, in the afternoon, we were got to about four leagues from the coaft ; at two leagues difta^ce you are out of foundings. Several periaguas failed along the fliore, on which we always faw great K r 2 fires. : . I sta ^mm^^rt^mfmim W" 3o8 l^: I^Ni. r jpil :N < m T> !, Multiplied dangers which wc run. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. fires. Here are turtles ; for we found the remains of one in the belly of a fliark. '' < * * ' "' " ' ^''-^ The fame day, at fun-fctting, we fet the eaflermoft land, bearing E. by N. 2" E. by compafs, and the wefler- moft bearing \V. N. W. both about fifteen leagues diftant. The following days were dreadful ; every thing was a- gainft us i the wind conftanily blowing very frefli at E. S. E. and S. E. the rain ; a fog fo thick, that we were obliged to fire guns, in order to keep company with the Etoile, which ilill contained part of our provifions ; and, laftly, a very great fea, which hove us towards the fliore. We could hardly keep our ground by plying, being obliged to wear, and to carry but very little fail. Thus were we forced to make our boards ; in the dark, in the midit of a fea, ftrewed with fhoals j being obli- ged to fliut our eyes to all figns of danger. The night between the i ith and i 2th, fcven or eight of the fifli, which are called cornets *, and which always keep at the bottom of the fea, leaped upon the gang-boards. There likewife came fome fand and weeds from the bottom upon our fore-caftle j it being left there by the waves that beat over it. I did not choofe to found; it would not have leflened the certainty of the danger, which was always the fame, whatever expedient we could take. * Corn ft} are a fpecics of iUcU-fifh. F. Upon \, 'il (2 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Upon the whole, we owe our fafety to the knowledge we had of the land on the loth in the morning, immedi- ately before this continuance of bad and foggy weather. Indeed the winds being £. S. E. and S. £. I ihould have thought fleering N. E. an excefs of precaution againft the obfcurity of the weather. However this courfc tvi- dently brought us into the moft imminent danger of be- ing loft, as the land extended even to E. S. E. The weather cleared up on the i^th, the wind ftill remaining contrary ; but we had «t leaft got day-light again. At fix o'clock in the morning we faw the hnd from north to N. E. by E. by compafs, and we plyed in order to double it. On the 17 th, in the morning, we did not fee any land at fun-rifing j but at half paft nine o'clock we perceived a little ifland to the N. N. E. by compafs, five or fix leagues diftant, and another land to N. N. W. about nine leagues off. Soon after we difco- vered in N. E. i E. four or five leagues diftant, another little ifle ; which from its refemblance to U/hant *, ob- tained the fame name. We continued our board to N. E. by E. hoping to double all thefe lands, when, at eleven o'clock, we difcovered more land, bearing N. E. by E. V E. and breakers to E N. E. which feemed to join Uftiant. To the N. W. of this little ifle, we faw another chain of breakers, extending half a league. The firft * OueffanU. . ifle 309 HI 310 A VOYAGE ROUND TJJE WORLD. .ijf 'hm Kxtrcmitics to which wc are reduced. iilc likcwifc fecmcd to be between two chaips of breakers. ,. ,, . ,.: ■ . : ,,.. . i ,, , %..i ,,; All the navigators, who ever came into thefc parts, always drcadal to fall to the foiuhward of New Guinea, and of finding a gulph there corrcfponding to that of Carpentaria, which it would have proved diilicult fof them to clear. Confcqucntly they have all in good time got into the latitude of New Britain, at which they touclied. They all followed the fame track; wc open- ed a new one, and paid dear for the honour of the firft difcovcry. Unhappily hunger, the mod cruel of oqr enemies, was on boaid. I was obliged to make a con- fiderable diminution in the allowance of bread and pulfc. It like wife became necelTary to forbid the eating of that leather, which is wrapped rou^d the yards, and any other old leather, as it might have had the moft dreadr ful confequences. We had a goat remaining, which had been our faithful companion fince we left the Ma- louines, where we had taken her on board. Every day file gave us fome milk. The hungry ftomachs ov the crew, in a capricious inflant, condemned her to death j I could only pity her j and the butcher who fed her fuch a long time, Ihed tears over the vi^Slim which he thus facrifi^ed to our hunger. A young dog, taken in the llraits of Magalhaens, ilidred the fame fate foon after, , On A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 311 *' On the I 7 th, in the afternoon, the riirrenis bad been fo favourable, that we bad again taken the N. N. E. bioard, Handing much to windward of Ulhant, and the flioah around it. But at four o'clock we were convinced, that ibefe breakers extend much farther than we were at (irll aware of ; fome of them were fcen even in E. N. E. and there was yet no end of them. We were obliged, during nigl»., to return upon the S. S. W. tack, and in day-time the eaflern one. On the i 8th, during the whole morning, we faw no land ; and we already gave ourfelves up to the hope of having doubled thefc ifles and breakers. Our joy was lliort ; about one o'clock in the afternoon, an ifle was feen in N. E. by N. by com- pafs ; and foon after it was followed by nine 01 ten others. Some of them bore E. N. E. and behind them a higher land extended to N. E. about ten leagues diftant* "We plyed to windward all night ; the day following gave us a view of the fame double chain of lands run- ning nearly eaft and weft, viz. to the fouthward, a num. ber of little illes connecfled by reefs, even with the fur- face of the water, to the northward of which extended ' the higher lands. The lands we difcov^red on the 2 oth feetned to be lefs foilthward, and only to run E. S. E- This was an amendment in our porition. I refolved to ^tiin boards of four and twenty hours j v/e loil too much time in putting abo\': more frequently j the fca being m Mpi^t (a 312 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. extremely rough, and the wind blowing very hard and conftanily from the fame point: we were likewife o- bliged to make very little fail, in order to fpare our crazy mafts, and damaged rigging ; our fliips too went very ill, being in a bad failing trim, and not having been care'^ned for fo long a time. We faw the land on the 25 th at fun-rifmg, extending from N. to N. N. E. but it was now no longer low ; on the contrary we faw a very high land, fceraingly ter- minating in a large cape. It was probable that the coaft after that fliould tend to the northward. We fleered all day N. E. by E. and E. N. E. without feeing any land more eafterly than the cape which we were doubling, with fuch a joy as I am not able to defcribe. On the 26 th in the morning, the cape being much to leeward of us, and feeing no other lands to windward, we were at lad enabled to alter our courfe again towards N.N. E. This cape which we had fo long wiflied for, was named We at laft Cape Deliverance, and the gulph, of which it forms the ia°ndsofthe caflermoll poiut, Gulph of the Louifiade (goJfe de la Loui^ ^"^ ' /i<;idej. I think we have well acquired the right of naming thefe parts. During the fortnight we pafled in this gulph, the currents have pretty regularly carried us to the caftward. On the 26th and 27th it blew a hard gale, the fea was frightful, the weather fqually and dark. It wab impoflible to make any way during night. . W(w A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 313 We were about fixty leagues to the northward from Cape Deliverance, when on the 28 th in the morning, we difcovered land to the N. W. nine or ten leagues diftant. It proved to confift of two ifles, the moft fouthern of which, at eight o'clock, bore N. W. by W. by compafs. Another long and high coaft appeared at the fame time, bearing from E. S. E. to E. N. E. This coaft extended to the northward, and as we advanced north eaftward, it lengthened more, and turned to N. N, W. We however difcovered a fpace where the coaft was dffcontinued, cither by a channel, or the opening of d large bay ; for we thought we faw land at the bottom of it. On the 29th in the morning, tha coaft which wemeet lay to the eailward of us continued to extend NT. W* Tflalld^r though our horizon was not terminated by it on that fide. I intended to come near it, and then to go along it in fearch of an anchorage. At three o'clock in the afternoon, being near three leagues off fliorc, we found bottom in forty-eight fathoms, white fand and broken fliells: we th'sn flood for i creek which feemed conve- nient j but we were becalttied, and thus the reft of the day was paffed away fruitlefsly. During night we made feveral fliort boards, and on the 30 th, by break of day, I fent the boats with a detachment under the command of the chevalier Bournand, to vifit feveral creeks along the fliorc, which feemed to promife an anchorage, as S 3 the m M 314 Deftription of the iilan- dcrs. '•, 'm m I 1^1 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. '■i the bottom we had found at fea was a favourable flgn. I followed him under an eafy fail, ready to join him at the firft fignal he ihould give for that purpofe. Towards ten o'clock, a dozen periaguas, of dliFerent fizes, came pretty near the Ihips, but would not come along-fide of theme There were twenty-two men ia the largeft, in the middling ones eight or ten, and in the lead two or three. Thefe periaguas feemed well built J their head and ftern are raifed very much ; they are the firft we favS' in thefe feas that had no out- riggers. Thefe iflanders are as black as the negroes of Africa ; their hair is curled, but long, and fome of a reddifli colour. They wear bracelets, and plates on the neck and forehead j I know not of what fubftance they w^ere, but they feemed to be white. They are armed with bows and lances (fagayes) ; they made a great noife^ and it feemed as if their difpofition was far from par cific. I recalled our boats at three o'clock ; the cheva- lier de Bournand reported that he had almoft every unfucccfsfui where found good anchoring ground^ from thirty, twenty-five, twenty, fifteen to eleven fathoms, oozy (and, but that it war in open road, and without any river; that he had only feen one rivulet in all that extent. The open coaft is almoft inacceflible, the fea breaks upon it every where, the mountains extend to the very fea fliore, and the ground is entirely covered with woods. attempt to find anchor age here. H "--!■■ '->'- '■P>MC^>«WP^rW!^ ■^^BWWW^ A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. woods. In fome little creeks there are fome huts, but they are in very fmall number, for the iilanders inhabit the mountains. Our pinnace was followed by three or four periaguas, that feemed willing to attack her. An iflander adually rofe feveral times to throw his lance (fagayej j however, he did not throw it, and the boat returned on board without fkirmifliing. Our fituation was upon the whole very hazardous. We had lands, hitherto unknown, extending on one fide from S. to N. N. W. by the E. and N. on the other fide from W. by S. to N. W. Unhappily the horizon was fo foggy from N. W. to N. N. W. that we could not diftin- guifli any thing on that fide further than two leagues oflf. However, I hoped in that interval to find a paflfage ; we were too far advanced to return. It is true that a ftrong tide coming from the north and fetting to the S. E. gave us hopes of finding an opening there. The ilrength of the tide was mod felt from four o'clock to half an hour pad five in the evening ; the fhips, though they had a very frefli gale, fleered with much difficulty. The tide abated at fix o'clock. During night we plyed from S. to S. S. W. on one tack, and from E. N. E. to M. E. on the other. The weather was fqually, with much rain. ,-. ..^. ;. u, ,, . .. , .. The I ft of July, at fix in the morning, we found ourfelves at the fame point which we left the preceding i 'V S S 2 even- ZtS 1768. July. i±-^«ia?L 31^ Dangeroui fhores. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLB. evening} a proof that there was both flood and ebb. We (leered N. W. and N. W. by N. At ten o'clotk we entered into a pafTage about four or five leagues broad, between the coaft which extended hither on the eaft fide, and the land to the weftward. A very ftrong tide, whofe direction is S. E. and N. W. forms, in the middle of this palTage, a race which croflTes it, and where the fea rifes and breaks, as if there were rocks even with the furface of the water. I called it Denis's race (raz * Denisjt from the name of the mafter of my fliip, an old and faithful fervant of the king. The Etoile, who pafTed it two hours after us, and more to the weftwarr' found herfelf there in five fathoms of water, rocky bfoitom. The fea was fo rough at that time, that ifjey were obliged to lay the hatch-ways. On board t'lr frigate we founded forty- four fathoms, bot^fli >i fanri, giavel, Ihells, and coral. The eaftem coaft began here to lower and tend to the iaorthwrvd, ")n it we perceived, being nearly in the middle of tixc paflage, a fine bay, which to all appearance prbmifed a good anthorage. It was al- moft a calm, and the tide which then fet to the N. W. carried us paft it in an inftant. We immediately hauled our wind, imending to vifi't this bay. A very Violent * Raz (orraf, a race or whirlpool) i» ai place in the fea where there is fome rapid add dangerous current, or where there are different tides. Such a rat is com- monly to be met with in a ftrait or channel, but fometinies likewife in the high feae. See the Diiliennairs Militaire portatif, izmo. 3 vols. 1758. Pafis. F. /, ) 6 • fliower A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, 317 &ower of rain coming on at half an hour paft eleven, prevented our feeing the land and the fun, and obliged us to defer this fcheme. ^ ' ' "■'• ' • " • . ' At half an hour paft one o'clock in the afternoon, I Ne* attempts ^ to find an an- fent the boats, well armed, under the command of the chorage. enfign * chevalier d'Oraifon, to found and vifit the bay ; and during this operation, we endeavoured to keep near enough to follow his fignals. The weather was fair, but almoft calm. At three o'clock we faw the rocky " bottom under us, in ten and in eight fathoms. At four our boats made lignal of a good anchorage, and we im- mediately worked with all fails fettogain it. It blew very- little, and the tide fet againft us. At five we repafled the rocky bank in ten, nine, eight, feven and fix fa- thoms. We likewife faw an eddy Within a cable' .^ kngth to the S. S. E. feeming to indicate that thie was no more than two or three fathoms! of w.-^tfr. Ij^ fteering to N.W. and N. W. by N. we dee Tied our water. I made fignal to the Etoile to bear a^vay, in order to avoid this bank, and ' jnt her boat to h?v jo guide her to the anchorage. However, we did not ad- vance, the wind being too wei*.^ to aflift us in Item- ing the tide, and night coming on very faft. In two full hours we did not gain half a league, and we were obliged to give up all thoughts of poming to this an- * Enfeignt de Votjfeau, ■.■,\ chorage, !i'.i U:r _v._.1*<«Mfcmm,-..^ -^fjW -^.^^ iki^la*.-. 1 in 1 1'i '« ' -i- ri » w il V i' .''!■! 318 The ifianderj atuck our A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. chorage, as we could not go in fearch of it in the dark, being furrounded by flioals, reefs, and rapid and ir- regular currtnt5. Accordingly we flood W. by N. and W. N. W. in order to get off fliore again, founding fre- quently. Having made the north point of the N. E. land, we bore away N. W. afterwards N. N. W. and then north. I now refume the account of the expedition of our boats. Before they entered the bay, they had ranged its north point, which is formed by a peninfula, along which they found from nine to thirteen fathoms, fand and coral bottom. They then entered into the bay, and about a quarter of a league from the entrance, found a very good anchorage, in nine and twelve fathoms, bot- tom of grey fand and gravei, (hcltered from S. E. to S. W. by the caft and north. They were juft taking foundings, when chey all at once faw ten periaguas ap- pear at the entrance of the bay, having on board about one hundred and fifty men, armed with bows, lances, and fhields. They came out of a creek, at the bottom of which is a little river, whofe banks are covered with huts "ihefe periaguas advanced in good order, and as fail as poflible towards our boats j and when they tho is'ht ihey were near enough, they divided very dex- terouH, nco two fquadrons to furround them. The Irkdians len n^ade horrible cries, and taking their bows • <■: and : i - iii Qi A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 319 and lances, they began an attack, which they muil have thought would be a mere play to them, againft fuch a handful of people. Our people difcharged their arms at them J but this did not flop them. They continued to (hoot their arrows and throw their lances, covering themfelves with their fhields, which they looked upon as a defenfive weapon. A fecond difcharge put them to flight } feveral of them leaped into the fea in order to fwim on fliore. Our people took two of their peria- Defcription .....,, ^ of their boatff. guas : they are long, well wrought, their head and ftern very much raifed, to fhelter the people againfl arrows, by turning either end of the boat towards the enemy. On the head of one of thefe periaguas, they had carved the head of a man ; the eyes were of mother of pearl ;. the ears of tortoife-fhcU, and the whole figure refembled a raalk with a long beard. The lips were dyed of a bright red. In their periaguas our people found bows, arrows in great quantity, lances, Ihields, eocoa-nuts, and feveral other fruits, of what fpecies we could not tell,, arecca, feveral little utenfils employed by the Indians for various purpofes, fome nets with very fine mefhes, very well knit, and the jaw of a man, half broiled. Thefe illanders are black, and have curled hair, which Defcription 11 1 mi • 1 . of the iftan- they dye white, yellow or red. Their audacity in at- ders. tacking us, their cuftom of bearing ofFenfive and defen- five aims, and their dexterous management of them, prove 1 Iftl 320 il ' s Farther dif- coveries which we made. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. prove that ihey are almofl conftantly at w^ir. We have in general obferved in the courfe of this voyage, that the black men are much more ill-natured than thofe whofc colour comes near to white. Thefe iflanders are naked, excepting their privy parts, which are covered by a piece of mat. Their iliields are oval, and made of ruflies, twilled above each other, and very well con- nedled. They muft be impenetrable by arrows. We called the river and creek from when thefe brave iflan- ders came, the Warriors River (Riviere aux GuerriersJ. The whole ifle and the bay obtained the name of Ifle and Bay Choifeul. The peninfula on the north fide of the bay is covered all over with cocoa-nut trees. It blew very little the two following days. After leaving the pafTage, we difcovered to the weft ward a long hilly coaft, the tops of whofe mountains were co- vt. 3d with clouds. The 2d in the evening we fl:ill faw part of the Ifle of Choifeul. The 3d in the morning we faw nothing but the new coaft, which is of a fur- prifing height, and which lies N. W. by W. Its north part then appeared terminated by a point which infen- fibly grows lower, and forms a remarkable cape. I gave it the. name of C^i^pe TAverdi. On the 3d at noon it bore- about twelve leagues W. ^ N. and as we obferved the fun's meridian altitude, we were enabled to deter- mine the latitude of this cape with precifion. The cloudii A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 3ii clouds which lay on the heights of the land difperfed at fun-fetting, and {hewed us mountains of a prodi- gious height. On the 4th, when the firft rays of the fun appeared, we got fight of fome lands to the weft- ward of Cape I'Averdi. It was a new coaft, lefs elevated than the former, lying N. N. W. Between the S. S. E. point of this land and Cape I'Averdi, there remains a great gap, forming either a paflage or a confiderable gulph. At a great diftance we faw fome hillocks on it. Behind this new coafl: we perceived a much higher one, lying in the fame diredlion. We ftood as near as poflible to come near the low lands. At noon we were abou;: five leagues diftant from it, and fet its N. N» W. point bearing S. W. by W. In the afternoon three pe* riaguas, in each of which were five or fix negroes, came from the fliore to view our fliips» They flopped within mufket (hot, and continued at that diftance near an hour, when our repeated invitations at lafl: determined them to come nearer. Some trifles which were thrown to them, faftened on pieces of planks, infpired them with fome confidence. They came along-fide of the fliips, Ihewing cocoa-nuts, and crying boucay bouca, onelle f They repeated thefe words inceflfantly, and we after- wards pronounced them as they did, which feemed to give them much pleafure. They did not long keep Dcfcription along-fide of the veflel. They made figns that they der^Jho^'^' come near T t were ^^^ '^'P* m i,.'! ' m I I :].■ I,- 322 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. r , ■ ■■> S 1.' ■I" were going to fetch us cocoa-nuts. We applauded their rclbUition ; but they were hardly gone twenty yards, when one of thefc perfidious fellows let fly an arrow, which hap- pily hit nobody. After that, they fled as fafl as they could row : our fuperior llrength fet us above punifhing them. Thefc negroes arc quite naked ; they have curled fhort hair, and vei7 long ears, which are bored through. Several had dyed their wool red, and had white fpots on different parts of the body. It feems they chew betel, as their teeth are red. We found thr r the inhabitants of the Ifle of Choifeul likewife make ule of it ; for in their periaguas we found little bags, containing the leaves, with areka and lime. From thefe negroes we got bows of fix feet long, and arrows armed with points of a very hard wood. Their periaguas are lefs than thofe from the Warriors Creek j and we were furprifed to find no refemblance in their conftrudlion. This lafl kind of pf> riaguas had no great elevation at the head and flern .; they were without any out-rigger, but broad enough for two men to work at the oar in one row. This ifle, which we named Bmka, feems to be extremely well peo- pled, if we may judge fo by the great number of huts upon it, and by the appearance of cultivation which it has. A fine plain, about the middle of the coaft, all over planted with cocoa-nut trees, and other trees, offered a mofl agreeable profped, and made m*i very defirous of m A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 323 of finding an anchorage on it ; but the contrary wind, and a rapid current, which carried to the N. W. vifibly brought us further from. it. During night we ftood as clofc as poflible, fleering S. by W. and S. S. W. and the next morning the Ifle of Bouka was ah'eady very far from us to the eaft and S. E. The evening before, we h-^H perceived a httlc ifle, bearing N. \V. and N. \V. by W. We could not, upon the whole, be far from New Britain, where we hoped to take flieltcr at. ' On the 5 th, in the afternoon, wc got fight of two Anchorage little ifles to the N. and N. N. W. ten or twelve leagues ofNcVsli. diftant, and almofl: at the fame inftant another more confiderable one between N. W. and W. Of this laft, the neareft lands at half paft five o'clock in the evening, bore N. W. by W. about {tvGn. leagues diftant. The coaft was high, and feemed to form feveral bays. As we had neither water nor wood left, and our fick were growing worfe, I refolved to flop here, and we made all night the moft advantageous boards to keep this land under our lee. The 6 th, at day-break, we were five or fix leagues diftant from it, and bore away for ir, at the fame moment when we difcovered another new land, which was high, and in appearance very fine, bearing W. S. W. of the former, from eighteen to twelve, and to ten leagues diftance. At eight o'clock, being about three leagues from the firft land, I fent the chevalier du Bou- \. ■ m >, *. II A H JIUL -. .-iC: IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 11.25 Li US M Ui Hi Ci u 1^ U^ l&i |Z2 Ui& ^U^ Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STMET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) •72-4S03 314 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. ifiif 4- <:■ \4. ■': :3 i-ti^ Bouchage with two armed boats to view it, and fee whe- ther there was an anchorage. At one o'clock in the af- ternoon he made fignal of having found one^ and I immediately gave order to fill the iails, and bore down for a boat, which he fent to meet us j at three o'clock we came to an anchor in 3 3 fathom, bottom of fine white fand, and ooze. The Etoile anchored nearer the fhore than we did, in 21 fathom, fame bottom. Qualities and In entering, you have a little ifle and a key to the anchorage, weftward, ou the larboard fide ; they are about half a league ofF fliore. A point, advancing oppofite the key, forms within a true port, fheltered againi^ all the winds ; the bottom being, in every part of it, a fine white fand, from 3 5" to 1 5 fathom. On the eaftern point there is a ^ifible ledge, which does not extend out to fea. You likewife fee, to the northward of the bay, two fmali ledges, which appear at low water. Clofe to the reefs there is i 2 fathom of water. The entrance to this port is very eafy ; the only precaution which mud be taken, is to range the eaftern point very near, and to carry much fail ; for as foon as you have doubled it, you are becalmed, and can enter only by the head-way, which the fliip makes. Our bearings, when at an anchor, were as follows: The key, at the entrance, bore W. 9° 45^ S. the eaftern point of the entrance, W. 1 0° S. the weftern point, W. by N. the bottom of the harbour, S. E. by E. We A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 3^5 We moored eaft and weft, fpending the reft of the day with thofe manoeuvres, and with ftriking yards and top-mafts, hoifting out our boats, and vifiting the whole circuit of the harbour. . = ... .. It rained all the next night, and almoft the whole day Defcription of the 7 th. We fent all our water-cafks on (hore, pitch- and >*$'*«- ed fome tents, and began to fill water, take in wood, and make lies for wafhing, all which were abfolutely necedary occupations. The landing-place was hand- fome, on a fine fand, without any rocks or furf ; in the bottom of the port, in the fpace of four hundred yards, we found four brooks. We took three for our ufe •, the one for the Boudeufe, and the other for the Etoile to water at, and the third for walhing. The wood was near the fea-fide, and there were feveral forts of it, all very good fuel ; fome excellent for carpenters, joiners, and even for veneering. The two fliips were within hail of each other, and of the fliore. Befides this, the harbour and its environs were not inhabited within a great dif- tance, by which means we enjoyed a very precious and undifturbed liberty. Thus we could not wifli for a fafcr anchorage, a more convenient place for taking in wa- ter and wood, making thofe repairs which the fhips moft urgently wanted, and letting our people, who were fick of the fcurvy, ramble about the woods at their eafe, 'Cwf-'sH '^il} lo i!)uiJu<^ .ib /: ( and if they did not mend, the progrefs of the difeafe muft of courfe become more rapid. ^ - On the firft day we found a periagua, as it were de- polited, and. two huts, on the banks of a rivulet, at a mile's diftance from ouf camp. The periagua had an out^rigger, was very light, and in good order. Near it there were the remains of feveral fires, fome great caU cined (hells, and fome fkeletons of the heads of ani- mals, which M. de Commer^on faid were wild boars. The favages had but lately been in this place j for fome bananas were found quite frefli in the huts. Some of our people really thought they heard the cries of mea towards the mountains j but we have fince verified^ that they have millaken for fuch the plaintive notes of a large crefted. pigeon, of an azure plumage, and which :'t : '■'"; ' ;'-''.:.:...:.-. .baa .1 'i 1,1' \lf[ C' A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 327 has the name of crowned bird * in the Moluccas. We found fomeihing ftill more extraordinary on the banks of this river. A failor, belonging to my barge, being in fcarch of Ihells, found buried in the fand, a piece of a plate of lead, on which we read thefe remains of Englifh words, ' ' *'^ ^' - '^ ' ' ' ' '^ HOR'D HERE * ' * ' " . ...L l>u i. ICK MAJESTrs * '' There yet remained the mark of the nails, with which they had fattened this infcription, that did not feem to be of any ancient date. The favages had, doubilefs, torn off the plate, and broke it in pieces. , ^ . • This adventure engaged us carefully to examine all the neighbourhood of our anchorage. We therefore ran along the coall within the ifle which covers the bay ; we followed it for about two leagues, and came to a deep bay of very little breadth, open to the S. W. at the bottom of which we landed, near a fine river. Some trees fawed in pieces, or cut down with hatchets, im- ^^^^'^ '*' This bird is a native of the lile of Banda, otic of the Moluccas, aild is called by the Dutch Kroon-Vogel, Mr. Loten prefented one, foine years ago, alive to the late princeft royal of England and of Orange. Mr. Briflbn, in his Ornithology, vol. i. p. 279. t. 26. f.i. very improperly calls it a crownedlndian pheafant (Faifan couronne des Indes) \ and Mr. Butfoii, in his Planches Enlumiiiccs, tab. ii8. fdl- lows Briilbn, though every one will be convinced that it is a pigeon, at the very firfl: examination of its bill. Mr. Edwards has defcribed and figured it, p. 269. t. 338. of the third volume of his Gleanings. Its plumage is blue, or lead-colour- ed -, the fizc, that of a turkey. In that noble repofitory of natural hiftory and learu- in^j theBritilh Mufcum, there is a fine fpeclmeii of it. F. ' " ' ' •' Marks of aa mediately 328 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. I'm mediately flruck our eyes, and fliewed us that this was the place where the Englifh put in at. We now had •little trouble to find the fpot where the infcription had been placed. It was a very large, and very apparent tree, on the right hand fliore of the river, in the mid- dle of a great place, where we concluded that the EngliQi had pitched their tents ; for we ftill faw feveral ends of rope fattened to the trees ; the nails fluck in the tree ; and the plate had been torn off but a few days before; for the marks of it appeared quite frefh. In the tree itfelf, there were notches cut,^ either by the EngliCi or the iflandera. Some frefli flioois, coming up from one of the tree* which was cut down, gave us an opportunity of con- cluding, that the Englifh had anchored in this bay but about four months ago. The rope, which we found, like wife fufEciently indicated it ; for though it lay ia a very wet place, it was not rotten. I make no doubt, but that the fliip which touched here, was the Swallow. j a veflel of fourteen guns, commanded by captain Carte- ret, and which failed from Europe in Auguft 1766, with the Dolphin, captain Wallace. We have fince heard of this (hip at Batavia, where I fhall fpeak of her ; and where it will appear, that we from thence followed her track to Europe. This is a very ftrange chance, by which we, among fo many lands, come to the very fpot where this rival nation had left ac monument of an enterprize iimilar to our's. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 329 _^ The rain was almoft continual to the i i th. There feemed to be a very high wind out at fca; but the port is fliehered on all fides, by the high mountains wliich furround it. We accelerated our works, as much as the bad weather would permit. I like wife ordered our long- boat to under-run the cables, and to weigh an anchor, in order to be better alTared concerning the nature of the bottom ; we could not wifli for a better. One of produftion* our firll cares had been to fearch, (and certainly it was try. our intereft to do fo) whether the country could furnifli . any refrefhments to our fick, and fome folid food to the healthy. Our fearches were fruiilefs. The filhery was entirely unfuccefsful ; and we only found in the woods a few thatch-palms, and cabbage-trees in very fmall jQumber ; and even thefe we were obliged to difpute with enormous ants, of which innumerable fwarms forced •us to abandon feveral of thefe trees, already cut down by us. It is true, we faw five or fix wild boars ; and, •fince that time, fome huntfmen were always out in fearch of them ; but they never killed one. They were the only quadrupeds we faw here. Some people likewife thought they had feen the fooi- fteps of a tyger cat. We have killed fome large pigeons of great beauty. Their plumage was green-gold ; their neck and belly of a greyifh-white } and they have a lit- tle creft on the head. Here are likewife turtle-doves, U u fome «««iHHF'= 330 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. M- .1 1 il ^, fome widow-birds, larger than thofe of the Brafils, par- rots, crown-birds ; and another kind, whofe cry fo well refomblcs the barking of a dog, that every one who hears it for the firll time, mull be deceived by ir. We have likewife feen turtle in dilllTent parts of the chan- nel } but this was not the fcafon when they lay eggs. In this bay are fine fandy creeks, where I believe a good number of turtle could be caught at the proper time. • • ..•.,. -1. :-•,.-. • All the country is mountainous ; the foil is very light, and the rocks are hardly covered with it. However, the trees are very tall, and there are feveral fpecies of very fine wood. There wc find the Betel, the Areca, and the fine Indian-reed, which we get from the Malays. It grows here in marfliy places j but whether it requires a peculiar culture, or whether the trees, which entirely over- Ihadow the earth, hinder its growth, and change its quali- ty, or whether we were not here at the proper feafon when it is in maturity, fo much is certain, that we never found any fine ones here. The pepper-tree is likewife common to this country ; but it had neither fruit nor flowers at this, feafon. ^ The country, upon the whole, is not very rich for a botanift. There remain no marks in it of any fixed habitation : it is certain that the Indi- ans come this way from time to time; we frequently found places upon the fea-lhore, where they had J ftop- ■I J. 't";?'! A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 33i flopped ; ibc remnants of their meals cafily betrayed them. On the I oth, a failor died on board the Etoilc, of a complication of difordcrs, without any mixture of the fcurvy. The three following days were fme, and we made good ufe of them. We refitted the heel of our mizen-matl, which was worm-eaten in the Hep ; and the Etoilc Ihortened hers, the head of it being fprung. We likcwifc took in, from on board the flore-fliip, the flour and bifcuit which ftill belonged to us, in propor- tion to our number. There were fewer pulfe than we at firft thought, and I was obliged to cut ofl* above a third part of the allowance of the (gourgams) peafe or caravanfes for our foup : I fay ours, for every thing was equally diftributed. The officers and the failors had the fame nourilliment ; our fituation, like death, render- ed all ranks of men equal. We Hkewife profited of the fair weather, to make good obfervations. On the I I th, in the morning, M. Verron brought his obfcrvation of loiigilude, quadrant and pendulum on Ihore, and employed them the fame day, to take the fun's altitude at noon. The motion of the pendulum was exadlly determined by fc- veral correfponding altitudes, taken for two days confc- cutively. On the i 3th, there was an cclipfc of the fun vifible to us, and we got every thing in readinefs to ob- f.rve it, if the weather permitted. It was very fair; and U u 2 M'e Cruel famir.e which we fulKtf. i^m !■■• (V Mi' ■■ '';^:' ,t... A VOYAGfi RbltND THE WORLD, we faw both the moment of immerfion, and that of cn\crrion. M. Verron obferved with a tclefcopc of nine feet : the chevalier du Bouchage with one of Dollond's acromatic telefcopes, four feet long ; my place was at the pendulum. The beginning of the eclipfe was to us, on the I 3ih, at i oh. 5' 45'' in the morning, the end at 00 h. 28' I 6' true time, and its magnitude 3' 22 '. We have buried an infcription under the very fpot where the pendulum had been ; and we called this harbour Port Prq/lin. This obfcrvation is fo much the more important, as it was now polTiblc, by its means, and by the iflrono- mical obfcrvations, made upon the coaft of Peru, to de- termine, in a certain fixed manner, the extent of longi- tude of the vafl Pacific Ocean, which, till now, had been fo uncertain. Our good fortune, in having fair weather at the time of the eclipfe, was fo much the greater, as from that day to our departure there was not a fingle day but what was dreadful. The continued rains, to- gether with the fuflocating heat, rendered our flay here very pernicious to us. On the i 6th, the frigate had completed her woiks, and we employed all our boats to finifii thofe of the Etoile. This (lorc-fliip was quite light, and as there were no (lones proper forballaft, wc were obliged to make ufe of wood for that purpofc j this was a long troublefomc labour, which in thefe forefls, where t3m A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 33J where an eternal humidity prevails, is hkcwife un- wholefomc. . , i , / x/ -k . Here wc daily killed fnakes, fcorpions, and great numbers of infers, of a fincular fort. They are three Dofc»iption of two in- or four inches long, and covered over with a kind of ^^^■^ armour ', they have fix legs, projeding points on the fides, and a very long tail. Our people likewifc brought me another creature, which appeared extraordinary to us all. It is an in fed about three inches long, and be- longs to the Mantis genus. Almoft every part of its body is of fuch a texture, as one would take for a leaf, even when one looks clofely at it. Each of its wings is one half of a leaf, which is entire when the two wings are clofcd together ; the under fide of its body refembles a leaf, of a more dead colour than the upper one. The creature has two antenncc and fix legs, of which the upper joints are likewifc fimilar to parts of leaves. M. de Commer^on has defcribed this fingular infe6t ; and I placed it in the king's cabinet, prefervcd in fpirits. Here wc found abundance of (hells, many of them very fine. The (hoals offered treafures for the ftudy of Conchology. We met with ten hammer-oyfters in one place, and they are fa id to be a fcarce fpecies *. The cu- * '^riiey were fouml in a creek of the great ifle, which forms this bay } and which for that reafon has been called Hammer Ifland, (I/!e aux Marttaux), m. I 8 riofity i-.imx'vprapill: ^Bff^jHffi? ^^mm" 3 34 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. I V.J : 'A . It ■■^' 411 a water- fnake. liofity of fome of our people was accordingly raifcd to a great pitch -, but an accident happening to one of our Tailors abated their zeal. He was bit in the water by Sailor bit by a kind of fnake as he was hauling the fcinc. The poifonous ciTedls of the bite appeared in half an hour's time. The failor felt an cxcefllvc pain all over his body. The fpot where he had been bit, which was on the left fide, became livid, and fwelled vifibly. Four or five fcarifications extracted a quantity of blood, which was already difTolved. Our people were obliged to lead the patient walking, to prevent his getting convulfions. He fuffercd greatly for five or fix hours together. At laft the treacle (theriaqiie) and flower dc luce water which had been given him, brought on an abundant perfpira- tion, and cured him. ' This accident made every one more circumfpetSt and careful in going into the water. Our Taiti-man cu- rioufly obferved the patient during the whole courfc of his ficknefs. He let us know that in his country were fnakes along the fca-fliorc, which bit the people in the fea, and that every one who was thus bit died of the wound. They have a kind of medicinal knowledge, but I do not believe it is extenfivc at all. The Taiti- •man was furprifcd to fee the failor return to his work, four or five days after the accident had happened to Jiim. When he examined the produJlions of our arts, and BaJ weather which per- fecuics ui. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, 335 antl the various rricans by which ihcy augment our fa- culties, and muhiply our forces, this illandcr would often full into an extatic fir, and blulh for his own country, faying with grief, aonaou T'aiti, fy upon Taiii. However, he did not like to exprcfs that he felt our fupcriority over his nation. It is incredible how far his haughtincfs went. We have obfcrved ihat he was as fupple as he was proud ; and this character at once iliews that he lives in a country where there is an in- equality of ranks, and points out what rank he holds there. Miiirs.).. ; , ;* .i:^ ^<»»* ■■' ■ i - • '- * On the 19th in the evening we were ready to fail, but it feemed the weather always grew worfe and worfe. There was a high fouth wind, a deluge of rain, with thunder and tempelluous fqualls, a great fca in the offing, and all the fifliing birds retired into the bay. On the 2 id in the morning, towards half an hour pad ten o'clock, we fuftained feveral ihocks of an Earthquake. earthquake. They were very fenfibly felt on board our (hips, and lafted about two minutes. During this time the fea rofe and fell feveral times confecutively, which greatlv terrified thofe who were fifhing on the rocks, and made them retreat to the boats. It feems upon the whole, that during this feafon the rains are uninterrupted here. One tcmpeft comes on before the other is gone oiF, it thunders continually, and the nights are i%:Am(mKm' ■ ■ 1 ( 1 , I ^T.^ \m. :|.--^ ► fr^!^, ■" £^''-^ i. 336 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. are fit to convey an idea of chaotic darknefs. Not- withftanding this, we daily went into the woods in fearch of thatch palms and cabbage trees, and endea- endeavour to yourinff to kill fomc tuFilc dovcs. We divided into fe- hom. vera! bodies, and the ordinary refult of thefe fatiguing caravans, was, that we returned wet to the fkin, and with empty hands. However, in thefe laft days, we found fome mangle-apples, and a kind of fruit called Prunes de Monbiii *. Thefe would have been of fome fervicc to us, had we difcovered them fooner. We like- wife found a fpccies of aromatic ivy, in which our fur- geons believed they had difcovered an antifcorbutic qua- lity ; at leaft, the patients who ufed an infufion of it, and waflied with it, found themfelves better. We al/ went to fee a prodigious cafcade, which fur- niiTied the Etoile's brook with water. In vain would art endeavour to produce in the palaces of kings, what nature has here laviftied upon an uninhabited fpot'. W 3 admired the aflemblage of rocks, of which the almoit regular gradations precipitate and divcrfify the fall of the waters ; with admiration ^^c viewed all thefe ma/fes, of various figures, forming an hundred different bafons, which contain the limpid fheets of water, coloured and * I: Is not known to what genus this plant belongs ; a general, but not fyftemn- tical, (Icfcription of it may be found in Mr. P'alment de Bomare's Di^ionnaire d 'Hif- tme Nalurellef ankle MoSBAiN. F. lliaded DefTiption of a fine cafcade. I A VOYAGE iROUND THE. WORLP. 3'37 fliaded by trees of immenfe height, fbmc of which have their rdots in the very rcfervoirs themfelves. l^t it fuf- fice that fome men exift, whofe bold pencil can trace the image of thefe inimitable beauties : this cafcade de- ferves to be drawn by the greateft painter. -■ :i--{'; .. v,;i ' Mean while our fituation erew worle every moment ^""^ '' """!?" *-' ' grows worfc. of our flay here, and during all the time which we fpent '■'^">' ''^y- without advancing homeward; The number of thofe who were ill of the fcurvy, and their complaints en- creafed. The crew of the Etoile was in a ftill worfe condition than ours. Every day I fent boats cut to fea, in order to know what kind of weather there was. The wind was conftanily at Ibuth, blowing almoft a ftorm with a dreadful fea. Under thefe circumftances it was impofllble to get under fail, efpecially as this could not be done without getting a fpring upon an anchor that was to be flipped all at once j and in that cafe it would have been impofllble in the ofl^hg to hcifl: in the boats that mufl; have remained to weigh the anchor, which we could not afford to leave behind us. Thefe obftacles determined me to go on the 2 3d to view a paflage be- tween Hammer ifland and :he main land. I found one, through which we could go out with a fouth wind,- hoifting in our boats in the channel. This pafliage had indeed great inconveniences, and happily we wrre nbt obliged to make ufe of it. It rained without inter^-'we le X X mifllon Port Praflin. Z$B A VOtAGJS ROUND THE WORLD. P:?> i ''J'-' If -i-M ^ '■ 1 mifBcn all the night hetween the iz^dand 24tb. At day- break the weather became fair and calm. We im<- mediately weighed ciir fihall bower, faflencd a warp to ibme trees, bene a hawfer to a ftream-anchor, and hove a-peek on the ofF-anchor. During the whole day we waited for the moment of fetting fail ; we already defpaired of it, and the approach of night would have obliged us to moor again, when at half paft five o'clock a breeze fprung up from the bottom of the harbour. We immediately ilipt our ihore-fafl, veered out the hawier of the ftream-anchor, from which the Etoile was to fet fail after u«, and in half an hour's time we were got under fail. The boats towed us into the middk of the pa^ge^ where there was wind enough to enable, us to proceed without their ailiflance. We immediately feiM them to the Etoik ; to bring her out. Being got two leaguesr out to fea^ wc lay^to in order to wait for her, hoifting in our long-bc u and fmall boats. At eight o'clock we began t« fee the Etoile which was come out of port i but the calm did not permit her to join us till two hours a4ter midnight. Our barge returned at the fame time^ »iid we hoifled her- in. - ^».^. >->.- .->. / ^- -'- ,/ , ,_ •-.During night we had' fqualls and rain. The fair ^«ather returned at daybreak. The wind was at S. W. and we fteered from £; by S. to N. N, £. turning to north- A VOYAGE aOUND, THE WCXKLD. asy northward ipvittii die lan& ' Itiwcoild lot hk^ic been prudent to endeavour to jaia to windwsuDd of it: wd fufpedted that this land was New BriuiOi and lall thQ appearances confirmed us in it. Indeed the lands which we had difcovered more to the weftward came very clofe to this, and ia the midft of. what one might have taken for a pafTage, we faw feparate hummocks, which doubtleffr joi^Q^d.tQ.tlke other latid^^ by means of fq^ie low grounds. Such is the pidure Dampier gives of the great jbay^ which he; callsr,St. George's Bay, and We have been at anchor at the^ N« £ point of it, as we ve- jified on tbie firft day^ aft^r pur^^vii^g.the pprt< Dam- pier was , jnore f ^Qcefsf ol than , iw^ were. He ,took ihelter neaf an inhabiud diilii^^, which procured him refreihmentSt and whereof the /prpdqtftion^ gave him room to GODceive great Jt^9peisi.<,cqnc^0u>f t^is. country: ; ai^d we, who were a« iof^igftK as, ,he waSt ' iell in with a-defart} which, inftead of Aipplyhig'^U our warns, has only affpf ded .«s wood a^d Wiatwj* : ^. i mi*^ .'.*U) . fthHrl t..,. When I kft Port Praflin^ I consi&ed my i longitude by that which we obtained fiomi the calculation of the folar ecUpfe* which we obferved th^e } my ^difference was about 3°, which I was to the eaftward. The ther- mometer divring^ the day whicli we made there, was conftantly at 22° ov aj^,; but the heat was greater than it fcemed to ihetv. I atttibvKe the caufe of this r» n* XX 2 t u illl to "«!^iT'«»f.^:3n.'fi 340 A VOYAGE RDUND THE WCntLT>. U'^A Si .11 ; H-a" . ^^ndicfpecially on the fide of the reigning wirtds.vsl'i ^-.t (>afii en..: Jsdi j/t^i -Ji^aV l!?>4\9' ^>j^A iM rii*Jxl:ii i:,jh\> i err iVi£f?*n:xnr^w» i/o. ;v«^p. T''^v •jrifiyjinsr;Ui':f^rii:li .o: ■i-um .UxivrfazYik'iiaitb >xifi- - Itim from Pbh PrajBt'ta tf^^^Mahtccds'i Jltty af B6er^;^ E put ta fta- jlgafin after* d'ftk'jr of tfight' djrf!?, during wiiidi time, ' as we have before obferve^, the weather Iiad been-' cdriftahtly bad', kncl thie v^ind 'al^- •moft always fottih^i*lyr''Thi'i.j'i!fi^ it reitmied* tb S:'H. 'Vtf^rin^^ foiihd'^to E; ahd' w* fdfti^peed the dirffihgi d' ftrts pceffion' o^ iflaiidS, -dnit' 2lfm thii other. " Wfc ''pa'^cd-be- 'tv^fe^h theftCaild' 'eh^"%Jkiih- ^^^'l gAVfeth^m the names of the principal* -'bfiv^^e^s.'-' We- 'fio^'iiolon^r 'doubted that we %eW;coafti«g^N€\l^ Bfitalrf. ^ This' land is vtry 'high, an* ftemed to be Jinteifeafe^ with fine ' biy s, in which we • pbre^ived- fires, and bihcr marks of •habitatfons/-''"'*'-'*'- --' ^' ''' -- '- ^^^i'^v/ /;. -y^-' ■■ .■ Diftribation The ttiiii^ dfey after oui^ ^depa'hurd r t^uifed bur field- iheVSois.'** tents tbbe ^t'Upi and uiftributtd trowfers to the two fliipS companies. We had already, on feveral occafions, A'VO'Y'AGE ROUND THE WORLD. 341 m^de the like diflributions of cloathing of all kinds* Without that, how would it have been poflible that ihefe poor fellows ihould be clad during fo long a voy- age, on which they were feveral times obliged to pafs alternately froni cold to hot, and to endure frequent deluges of rain? I had, upon the whole, nothing more Extreme want of vie- to give them, all was exhauued, and I was even forced tuau. to cut off another ounce of- the daily allowance of bread. Of the little provifions that remained, part was ' fpoiled^ iind in 'any other Situation all our fait provifions. would bavebeen thrown over-board > but we were under the rieceility of eating the bad as' well as the good, for it was imj[>oiIible to (ell when our fituation would mend. ^u& i&was our cafe to fu^er at onc6 by what was pall, which had weakened us ; by our prcfcnt Htuation^ of which 'the ititfahcholy dir<:uiixftances were fcvery inftan*: repeated before us^r^nd laftly, by what was to come-, the indeternimate duration of which was, f he. great eft of all, our calamities. My perfonalfufferirigsencreared by thofe.of others. However, I muft declare that not pne fuffcred himfelf to be dejet^d* and that our patience und^r fuflfeyingjs has,beefli>Ai|)eri9r. tothe pipft critical fituations. The officers fet the example, and the fea- men never ceafed dancing in the ever^ings, as- well in the time of fcarcity, as in that of the greiateft hhn^rjo i^nva no .yb;?'.'ff. bud aV/ .i^itiRqai^,- > plenty.. 342. HM m R! V . H i^l* ■■?»' I * i ^tm Defcription of the inha- bicantJ of New Guinea. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WQR|.D.,^ plentjr. Nor haa it been necefTary to double their pay . .^His »npi3Hi«.PP. !>w»sL'mj«U''v\irfWi t»«.ii^.;M.* .im nvr We had Neiv Britain conflandy ii| iighc till the 3d of Auguft, during which time we had littlq wind» fre-, quent rain, the cuor^ma i^gatnil us« and thfi ihip^ wen( worfe than ever. The coaft trenchied n^f and more to the weHward, and on the ayth in the morning, w« found ourfeives nearer it than we 1^ .y!et:'*ir5 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. of fome pieces of ftufF which we threw over-board, did not infpire them with confidence fufficient to make them venture along-fide. Th;ey took up what was thrown into the wafer, and by way of thanks one of them with a fling flung a flone, which did not quite reach on board ; we would not 'eturn them evil for evil, fo they retired, flriking all together on their ca- noes, and fetting up loud fliouts* They without doubt carried their hoflilities farther on board the Etoile, for we faw our people fire feveral mulkets, which put them to flight. Their periaguas are long, narrow, and with out-riggers j they all have their heads and fterns more or lefs ornamented with fbulptures, painted red, which does honour to their fkill. ' - ' c ., The nen day there came a much greater number of them, who made no difi&culty of coming along-fide the flap. One of their co iduftors, who feemed to be the chief, carried a ftaff about two or three feet lon^, painted red, with a knob at each end, which, in approaching us, he raif^d with both hands over his head, and continued fome time in that attitude. All thefe negroes feemed to be drefled out in their beft, fooac bad their woolly hait painted red. Others had plumes on their heads, certain feeds in their cars by way of ear-rings, or large white round plates hanging to their necks } fome had rings pafled through the cartilage of the nofe j but an ornament pretty com^ men 343 .)•'!' ■'(■ I: 1 1 t.„*j 344 A VDYAGt HOUND THE WORLD. . 1 1 . 1 t M' They attack the Lcoile. mon' to them all wks bracelets, made of th6 mouih of a large (hell, fa wed afunder. We were defirous of forming an intcrcourfe, in order to engage them t6 bring us fome refrefhments, but their treachery fooh convinced us that we could not fuccecd in that attempt. They ftrove to feize what was offered them, and would give nothing in exchange. We could fcarce get a few roots of yams from them j therefore we left off giving them, and they retired. Two canoes rowed towards the frigate at the beginning of night, but a rocket be- ing fired for fome fignal, they fled precipitately. Upon the whole, it feemed that the vifits they made us thefe two laft days had been with no other view than to reconnoitre us, and to concert a plan of attack j for the 31ft, at day-break, we faw a fwarm of peria- guas coming oflf fliore, a part of them pafTed athwart us without flopping; and all directed their courfe for the Etoile, which they had no doubt obferved to be th6 fmalleft veflel of the two, and to keep aftern. The negroes made their attacks with ftones and arrows, but the aflion was fhort, for one platoon difconcerted their fcheme, many threw themfelves into the fea, and fome periaguas were abandoned : from this time we did not fee any more of them. ' , 'V '. *-' t "^.Jil*.!- ' The coaft of New Britain now ran W. by N. and W. tiiVm pTrtof «nd in this part it became confiderably lower. It was New Britain, ... ^ no Defcrlptlon of the nor- A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 34-^ no longer that high coaft adorned with feveral rows of mountains ; the northern point which we difcovcrcd was very low land, and covered with trees from fpace to fpace. The five firil days of the month of Auguft were rainy, the weather thick and unfettled, and the wind fqually. We difcovered the coaft only by piece- meal, i the clear intervals, without being able to dif- tinguifh the particulars of it : however, we faw enough of it to be convinced that the tides continued to carry us a part of the moderate run we made each day. I then fleered N. W. and N. W. by W. to avoid a clufter of illands that ly oflf the northern extremity of New Britain. The 4th in the afternoon we difcovered two iflands, which I take to be thofe that Dampier calls Matthias Ifland and Stormy or Squally Ifland. Matthias Ifland is high and mountainous, and extends to N. W. about eight or nine leagues. The other is not above three or four leagues long, and between the two lies a fmall ifle. An ifland which we thought we perceived the 5 th, at two o'clock in the morning, to the wefl- ward, caufed us agai.a to (land to the northward. We were not miftaken ; for at ten o'clock the fog, which till then had been thick, being diflipated, we faw that ifland, which is fmall and low, bearing S. E. by S, The tides then ceafed to fet to the fouthward and eaftward which feemed to arife from our having got beyond the Y y nor- 1768. Auguft* 34.<5 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, /v 3,. ■'I- lOeorAn. shorcu. northern point of New Britain, which the Dutch have called Cape Salomafwer. We were then in no more than 00° 41' fouth lat. We had founded almort every day without finding bottom. -— -^ ........ ..^1. .,..<,,,... We {leered weft till the yih, with a pretty frefli gale and fair weather, without feeing land. The 7th in the evening, the fky being very hav>y, and appearing at fun-fet to be a horizon of land from W. to W. S. W. I determined to fleer S. W, by S. for the night j at day- light we (leered weft again. In the morning we faw a low land, about five or fix leagues a-head of us. We fleered W. by S. and W. S. W. to pafs to the fouth ward of it, and we ranged along it at about a league and a half diftance. It was a flat ifland, about three leagues long, covered with trees, and divided into feveral parts,. eonned:ed together by breakers and fand-banks. There are upon this ifland a great quantity of cocoa-nut trees, and the fea-fliore is covered with a great number of ha- bitations, from which it may be fuppofed to be extremely populous. The huts were high, almoft fquare, and well covered- They fcemed to us larger and handfomer than the huts built with reeds generally are, and we thought we again beheld the houfes of Taiti.. We diieovered? a great number of periaguas employed \n fifliing all- round the ifland ; none of them feemed to be difturbed- at Jfceing us pafs, from which. w« judged that thefe people,. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 347 people, who were not curious, were contented with thclt fate. We called this ifland the Iflc of Hermits, or An- chorets. Three leagues to the weft ward of ihi?, vvc fiw another low ifland from the mad-head. The night was very dark, and feme fixed clouds to AtchipdiRo; ' liy us calicd the fouthward made us fuppofc there was land ; and, '^e EiUjvtr, in fa(5l, at day- light we difcov^reil two fmall iflcs, bear- ing S. S. E. T E. at eight or nine leagues diftance. We had not yet loft fight of them, at half paft eight o'clock, when we difcovered another low ifland, bearing W. S. W. and a little after, an infinite number of little iflands ex- tending to W. N. W. and S. W. of this lafl:, which might be about two leagues long; all the others, properly fpeaking, are nothing but a chain of little flat ifles, or keys, covered with wood j which, indeed, was a very difagreeable difcovery to us. There was, however, an ifland ftparated from the others, and more to the fouth- ward, which feemed to us more confiderable. We fliaped our courfe between that and the Archipelago of ifles, which I called the Chefs -board, (TEchigvlerJ and which I wanted to leave to "the northward. We were not yet near getting clear of it. This chain difcovered, everfince the morning, extended much farther to thefouth- weftvvard, than we were at that time able to determine. We endeavoured, as I have obferved before, to dou- Danger which wc tun ble it to the fouthward j but in the beginning of the there. Hi i Y y 2 night, 34^ A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. ii:JJ night, we were ftill engaged with it, without knowing precifely how far it extended. The weather being con- tinually fqually, had never flicwn U3 at once, all that we had to fear » to add to our cmbarrafTment, it became calm in the beginning of the night, and the calm fcarce ended at the return of day. We pafled the night under continual apprehenfions of being call afliore by the currents. I or- dered two anchors to be got clear, and the cables bitted with a range along the deck, which was almoft an un- neceirary precaution ; for wc founded feveral timea without findiiig bottom. This is one of whe greateft dangers of thefe coalls ; for you have not the refource of anchoring at twice the fhip's length from the ledges, by which they are bounded. The weather for- tunately continued without fqualls ; and about mid- night a gentle breeze fprung up from the northward^ which enabled us to get a little to the fouth-eaftward. The wind frcfhened in proportion as the fun afcended, and carried us from thefe low iQands ; which, I believe, are uninhabited ; at leaft, during the time we were car- ried near enough to difcern them, we diftinguiflied neither fires, nor huts, nor periaguas. The Etoile had been, during the night, in ftill greater danger than us j for flie was a very long time without fteerage-way, and the tide drew her infenfibly towards the fhore, when the wind fprung up to her relief. At two o'clock, in the after- A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 349 r r ■ f i afternoon, \vc doubled the wcftctmoft of the illands, and ftcercd W. S. W. »^. .."i >« ' ^ ^ 41 ■',.. ..i«n The I I ih, at noon, being in 2° i 7' fouth l;itit!idr, ^y^ get fight ' '-' o( New we perceived, to the fouihward, a liigh coall, which ti«»ne4. ^ fecmed to us to be that of New Guinea. Some hours after, we faw it more dil\in(5lly. The land is high and mountainous, and in this part extends to the W. N. W. The 1 2 th, at noon, we were about ten leagues from the neareft land ; it was impoflible to obfcrve the coaft minutely at that diftance there : it appeared to us only a large bay, about 2" 2/ fouth latitude; in the bot- tom of which, the land was fo low, that wc only faw it from the mail- head. We alfo judged from the celerity . with which we doubled the land, that the currents were become favourable to us } but in order to determine with any exacflnefs, the difference they occafioned in our eftimated run, it would have been neceflary to fail at a lefs diftance from the coaft. We continued ranging a- long it, at ten or twelve leagues diftance ; its dire(flion was conftantly W. N. W. and its height immenfe. We remarked particularly two very high peaks, neighbours to each other, which furpaffed all the other mountains in height. We called them the Two Cyclops. Wc had occafion to remark, that the tides fet to the N. W. The next day we actually found ourfelves further off from the coaft of New Guinea j which here tended away weft. The i f \ 3S0 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Hf -■; ^:;!^ .... ill The I 4th, at break of day, we difcovered two illanda and a liiile iflc or key, which feemed to be between them, but more to the fouthward. Their correded bearings are E. S, E. and AV. N. \V. They arc at about two leagues diflance from each ether, of a middling height, and not above a league and a half in extent each. Direaion of We advanced but little each day. Since our arrival thewirls and ^ n r turrents. ou the coalt ot Ncw Gumca, we had pretty regularly a light breeze from eaft to N. E, which began about two or three o'clock in the afternoon, and lafted till about midnight ; this breeze was fucceeded with a longer or fliorter interval of calm, which was followed by the land- breeze, varying from S. W. to S. S. W. and that terminated alfo towards noon, in two or three hours elm. The i 5th, in the morning, we again faw the weilmofl; of the two iflands v/e had feen the preceding evening. We difcovered at the fame time other land, which feemed to us to be iflands, extending from S. E, to W. S. W. very low, over which, in a diftant point of view, we perceived the high mountains of the continent. The higheft, which we fet at eight o'clock in the morn- ing, bearing S. S. E. by compafs, detached from the others, we called the Giaiit of Moulineaii, and we gave the name of la Nymphe Jlice to the weflmofl of the low iflands, to the N. W. of Moulincau. At ten in the morning we ' fell into a race of a tide, where the current feemed to carry A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 3^1 carry us with violence to N. and N. N. E. It waS fo violent, that till noon it prevented our fleering ; and as it carried us much into the ofling, it became impoflible for us to fix a pofitive judgment of its true dirctflion. The water, in the firft tide-line, was covered with tiie trunks of drift trees, fundry fruits and rock-weeds j it was at th : fame time fo agitated, that we dreaded being on a bank ; but founding, we had no bottom at i oo fathom. This race of a tide feems to indicate either a great river in the continent, or a paffage which would here divide New Guinea ; a paffage whole entrance would be almoft north and fouth. According to two diflances, between the fun and moon, obferved with an odlant, by the chevalier du Bouchage and M. Verron our longitude, the i 5th at noon, was 136° 16' %o' eafl of Paris. My reckoning continued from the determin- obfervations ^ compared ed longitude of Port Praflin; differed from it 2° 47 , with the rec- ^ koning. We obferved the fame day 1° i 7 fouth latitude. The 1 6th and i7ih it w*s almofl calm; the little wind that did blow, was variable. The i 6 th, we did not fee the land till feven in the morning ; and then on- ly from the mafl head, extremely high and rugged. We lofl all that day in waiting for the Etoilc, who, over- come by the current, could not keep her courfe; and the 17 th, as fhe was very far from us, I was o- bHgcd to bear down to join her \ but this we did not accom* > If'''; "i 1 , ■! 1 i-i \' ¥. i 35' 2 A VOYAGE ROUNP THE WORLD. m l'4 -' "V ■■^\ ■'JrT ¥\f: •X "X-:} ■ ! . it i i •r 'I * I .1 ^^i Er fiM ■rat! i- '. ■l^fiT (I' it?.'! 'mm \' Wpcrofs t\.9 Lijuator. accompUfh, till the approach of night, which proved very flormy, with a deluge of rain and frightful thun- der. The fix following days were all as unpropitious to us ; we had rain and calms ; and the little wind that did blow was right a-liead. It is impollible to form an idea of this, without being in the fituatic i we were then in. The i 7 th, in the afternoon, we had feen from S. by \V. Y W. to S. W. L \V, by compafs, at about fix- teen leagues diftance, a high coaft, which wc did not lofe fight of till night came on. The i 8th, at nine in the morning, we difcovered a high ifland, beaiing S. \V. by W. diftance about twelve leagues: we faw it again the next day j and at noon it bore from S. S. W. to S. W. at the diftance of 15 or 20 leagues. During thefe three laft days, the currents gave us ten leagues northing: we could not determine what they had helped us in longi- tude. ^ "' • ■ ' - • - • ' The 20th we crofled the line, for the fecond time the voyage. The currents continued to fet us from the land ; and we faw nothing of it the 2 oth or 2 1 ft, al- though we had kept on thofe tacks by which wc ap- proached it moft. It became, however, neceflary to make the coaft, and to range along it, near enough, fo as not to commit any dangerous error, which might make us mifs the paftTage into the Indian Sea, and carry us into one of the gulphs of Gilolo. The 2 2d, at break of day, we 7 had A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. zst %- had fight of a higher coall than any part of New Guinea that we had yet feen. We fleered for it, and at noon we fet it, when it bore from S. by E. ^ E. to S. W. where it did not feem to terminate. We pafTed the line for the third time. The land ran W. N. W. and we approached Crof* the line * *■ again. it, being determined not to quii it any more till we ar- rived at its extremity, which geographers call Cape Ma- bo. In the night we doubled a point, on the other fiJe of which the land, ftill very high, trenched av/ay W. by S. and W. S. W. The 2 3d at noon, we faw an extent of coaft, of about twenty leagues j the weftmoft part of which bore from us S. W, thirteen or fourteen leagues^ We were much nearer two low iflands, covered with wood, diftant from each other about four leagues. We flood within about half a league ; and whilfl we waited for the Etoile, who was a great diftance from us, I fent ^ cm;„csfui the chevalier de Suzannet, with two of our boats arm- ""^'"P' *»^ inoret ed, to the northermoft of the two iflands. We thought we faw fome habitations there, and were in hopes of getting fome refrefliments. A bank, which lies the length of the ifland, and extends even pretty far to the eaftward, obliged the boats to take a large circuit to double it. The chevalier de Suzannet found neither dwellings, inhabitants, nor refrefliments. What had feemed to us at a diflance to form a village, was nothing Z z but ¥■ Jr: i^ U :' ii- ■ ad :; ! 354 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. i""- -■m ' but a heap of rocks, undermined and hollowed into ca- verns by the fea. The trees that covered the ifland, bore no fruits proper to be eaten by man. We buried an infcription here. The boats did not return on board till ten o'clock at night, vv^hen the Etoile had joined us. The conftant fight of the land fliewed us that the cur- rents fet here to the N. W. •.-I -'ma j^i'd-vit .i^.n.r wnu Continuation After hoiftiug in our boats, we ftrove to keep the Guinea. ^horc On board, as well as the winds, which were con- ftantly at S. and S. S. W. would permit us. We were obliged to make feveral boards, with an intent to pafs to windward of a large ifland, which we had feen at fun- fer, bearing W. and W. by N. The dawn of day fur- prifcd us, ftill to leeward of this ifland. Its eaftern fide, which may be about five leagues long, runs nearly N. and S. and off the fouth point lies a low ifland of fmall extent. Between it and the coaft of New Guinea, which runs here nearly S. W. by W. iheie appeared a large paflage, the entrance of which, of about eight leagues lay N. E. and S. W. The wind blew out of it, and the tide fet to the N. W. it was not poflible to gain in turn- ing to windward againft wind and fea ; but I fl:rove to do it till nine in the morning. I faw with concern that it was fruitlefs, and refolved to bear away, in order to range the northern fide of the ifland, abandoning with regret a paflage, which I thought a fine one, to extri- cate me out of this everlafting chain of iflands. • ■T- •. ■ t' A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. ZSS We had two fuccefllve alarms this morning. The firll time they called from aloft, that they faw a long ' range of breakers a-head, and we immediately got the other tacks on board. Thefe breakers, at length, more attentively examined, turned out to be the ripling of a ^.^^^^ j^^_ violent tide, and we returned to our former courfe. An 8"* hour after, feveral perfons called from the forecaftle, that they faw the bottom under us j the affair was preffing ; but the alarm was fortunately as fliort as it had been fudden. We fliould even have thou^^ht it falfe, if the Etoile, who was in our wake, had not per- ceived the fame fhoal for near two minutes. It appear- ed to them a coral-bank. Almoft north and fouth of this bank, which may have ftill lefs water in fome places, there is a fandy creek, in which are built fome huts, furrounded with cocoa-trees. This mark may fo much the better ferve for a direction, as hitherto we had not feen any traces of habitations on this coaft. At one o'clock in the afternoon, we doubled the N. E. point of the great ifland ; which from thence extended W. and W. by S. near 20 leagues. We were obliged to hug our wind to coaft it ; and it was not long ere we per- ceived other iflands, bearing W. and W. by N. We faw one at fun-fet, which bore even N. E. by N. to which there joined a ledge, which feemed to extend as far as N, by W. thus were we once more hemmed in. Z z 2 !M ,. u,: This i ya ^s^ A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. .k Difficult courfe. ,,;:! Lof. of the This day we loft cur firft matter, called Dbnys, who matter of the • r i fljip. died of the fcurvy. He was a native of St. Males, and aged about fifty years i raoft of them fpent in the king's fervice. The feniiments of honour, and extenfive know ledge, that diftinguifhed him in his important charge-, caufed him to be univerfally regretted among us. For- ty-five other perfons were alfli(5ted with the fcurvy j le- monade and wine only fufpended its fatal progrefs. We fpent the night upon our tacks ; and the 2 j'lh, at day-light, found ourfclves furrounded with land. Three- paflages prefented themftlves to us ; one opened to the S. W. the fecond to W. S. W. and the third almoft eafl? and weft. The wind was fair for none but the eaft ', and I did not approve of it, as I did not doubt that it would carry us into the midft of the ifles of Papua. It was nccefTary to avoid falling any farther to the north- ward ; for fear, as I have before obferved, we fhould be imbayed in one of the gulphs, on the eaft fide of Gilolo. The eflential means for getting out of thefe critical parts, was therefore to get into a fouthern latitude ; for on the other fide of the S. W. pafiage we obferved to the fourh- ward an open fea, to the utmoft extent of our view, therefore I refolved to ply to windward, in order to gain that outlet. All thefe illands, which inclofed us, are very fteep, of a moderate height, and covered with trees. We did not perceive the leaft appearance of their being inhabited. A VQYAGI^ ROUNPT^^E, WORLD. 3J7 At eleven o'clock in the afternoon, we founded 45 f°""^ p*'"' fage of the fathom, a fandy bottom ; this was one refource. At i'"c« noon we obferved in 00° / N. latitude, having croffed the line a fourth time. At fix in the evening we were fo far to windward, as to be able to fetch the \V. S. W, pafTage, having gained about three l»:agues by working the whole day. The night was more favourable, thanks to the moont-lhine, which enabled us to turn to wind- ward between the rocks and iflands. The current, -, which had been againft us whilft we were pafHng by the two firfl paflages, likewife became favourable for us as foon as we opened the S. W. paflage^ The channel through which we at laft pafled out this Defcription night, may be about three leagues broad. It is bound; nei through which wc ed to the weftward by a duller of pretty high iflanc's pafs. and keys. Its eaftern fide, which at firft fight we to. Ic for the weftmoft point of the great ifland, is alfo no- thing but a heap of fmall iflands and rocks, which, at a diftance, feemed to form only one body j and the fe- parations between thefe iflands ihew at firfl the appear- ance of fine bays ; this is what we difcovered in each tack, that we made towards that fhore. It was not till half paft four o'clock in the morning, that we were able to double the fouthmofl of the little iflands of the new paffage, which we called the French Paffage, We deepen- ed our water in the midfl: of this Archipelago of Iflands, I i I'i [1' !/:;■ r :'M '■ la \ 358 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. % Hi? in advancing to the fouthward. Our foundings were from 55 to 75 and 80 fathom, grey fand, ooze, and rotten fliells. When we were entirely out of the chan- nel, we founded and found no bottom. We then (leer- ed S. W. ' The 26th, at break of day, we difcovered an ifland, bearing S. S. W. and a little after another bearing W. N. W. At noon we faw no more of the labyrinth of iflands we had left, and the meridian altitude gave us 00° 23' Pafs the line fouth latitude. This was the fifth time of our palling a iirth time. the line. We continued clofe or a wind, with the lar- board tacks on board, and in the afternoon we had fight ot a fmall ifland in the S. E. The next day, at fun-rife, wu faw it fomewhat elevated, bearing N. E. about nine or ten leagues diftance, feeming to extend N. E. and S. W. about two leagues. A large hummock, very fteep, and of a remarkable height, which we named Big Tho- mas, (Gros Thomas) fhewed itfelf at ten in the forenoon. At its fouthern point there is a fmall ifland, and there are two at the northern one. The currents ceafed fet- ing us to the northward j we had, on the contrary, a difference to the fouthward. This circumftance, together with our obferved latitude, which made us to the fouth- ward ofCapeMabo, totally convinced me that we were at length entered into the Archipelago of the Mo- luccas. N:;^>b miW'^. ■■1-:.-*' ' - ^ ^^ Mr Let M |;|;;|| •a-i A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 2S9 :)"• Let me now afk, which this Cape Mabo is, and Difcuffion ... concerning where it is fituated ? Some make it the Cape, which, to cape Mabo. the northward, terminates the weftern part of New Guinea. Dampier and Woods Rogers place it the for- mer, in one of the gulphs of Gilolo in 30' S. lat. The fecond, eight leagues at fartheft from this great ifland. But all this part is an extcnfive Archipelago of little ifles ; which, on account of their number, were called the Thoufand Ifles, by admiral Roggewein, who pafled through them in 1722. Then in what manner does this Cape Mabo, which is in the neighbourhood of Gi- lolo, belong to New Guinea? Where fhall we place it, if (as there is fo much reafon tc believe) all New Guinea itfelf is a heap of great iflands ? the variovis channels betweeii' which are as yet unknown. It mufl ceriam- ly belong to the weftmoft of thefe confiderable ifles. On the 27 th, in the afternodn, we difcovered five or Entrance in. fix iflands, bearing from W. S. W. f W. to W. N. W. by pdago onhe compafs. During night we kept the S. S. E. tack; fo that we did not fee them again the 28th in the morning. We then perceived five other little ifles, which we flood in for. At noon they bore fromS. S. W. 1° W. to S. i 0° W. at the diftance of two, three, four, and five leagues. -^ We ftill faw Big Thomas bearing N, E. by E. i. E. about five leagues. We likewife got fight of another ifland, bearing W. S. W. feven or eight leagues dilUnt. Dur- ing I. !; 3^0 \k ■^ ^ I ■ i ■ ■ : ,1, f > s I s^i' •;*■ Meeting with a negro. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. ing the lad twenty-four hours we felt feveral flrong tides, which feemed to fet from the weftward. How- ever, the difference between my reckoning, and the ob- fervation at noon, and at the fetiing of the bearings^ gave us ten or eleven miles to S. W. by S. and S. S. W. At nine o'clock in the morning I ordered the Etoile to mount her guns, and fent her cutter to the S. W. ifles, in order to fee whether there was any anchorage, and whether thefe ifles had any interefling productions. It was almofl a calm in the afternoon, and the boat did not return before nine o'clock in the evening. She had landed on two ifles, where our people had found no (igns of habitation, or cultivation, and not even any kiiul of fruits. They were going to return, when, to their great furprife, they faw a negro, quite by himfelf, coming towards them in a periagua, with two out- riggers. In one ear he had a golden ring, and his arms were two lances. He came up to jut boat without (hew- ing any marks of fear or furprize. Our people afked him for fomething to eat and to drink, and he offered them water, and a fmall quantity of a fort of flour, which feemed to be his ordinary food. Our men gave him a handkerchief, a looking-glafs, and fome other trifles of that fort. He laughed when he received thefe prefents, and did not admire them. He feemed to know the Europeans, and we thought that he might poifibly be A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 361 r ibly be be a run-a.way negro from one of the neighbouring iflands where the Dutch have fettlements \ or that he had perhaps been fent out a-fifliing. The Dutch call thefe idands the Five Ifles, and fend fome people to vifit them from time to time. They told us that they were formerly Icven in number, but that two have been funk by earthquakes, which happen frequently in thefe parts. Between thefe ifles there is a prodigious current, without any anchorage. The trees and plants are almoft all the fame here as upon New Britain. Our people took a turtle here of about two hundred weight. From this time we continued to meet with violent sight of Ceratn. tides, which fet to the fouthward, and we kept the courfe which came nearcT: to their diredion. We founded feveral times without finding bottom, and till the 30th in the afternoon, we got fight of no other land than a fingle ifle to the weftward, ten or twelve leagues from us ; but then we faw a confiderable land bearing fouth at a great diflance. The current, which was of more fervice to us than the wind, brought us nearer to it during night, and on the 31ft at day-break we were about feven or eight leagues from it. This was the Ifle of Ceram. Its coafl:, which is partly woody and partly cleared, runs nearly eafl: and weft, and we could not fee it terminated. This ifle is very A a a high j n. J 1 _ ^.^B 3^2 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. II higli ; prodigious mountains rife on it f om fpace to fpacc, and the numerous fires which we faw on all fides of it, indicate its being very populous. Wc pafled the day and the next night in ranging the northern coaft of this ifle, making our tacks in order to gain to the wellward, and double its weftermoft point. The current was favourable to us, but the wind was fcant, *«/ m obfervations I fliall here take an opportunity from the contrary on the mon- foonj in ihefe winds WC had now met with for a lone: time, to obferve, parti. •=" that in the Moluccas, they call the wefterly monfoon the northern one, and the eafterly monfoon the fouthcrn one ; becaufe, during the former, the winds blow more generally from N. N. W. than from W. and during the latter, they come mod frequently from S. S. E. Thefe winds like wife prevail in the ifles of Papua, and on the coafts of New Guinea ; we got this information by fatal experience, having employed thirty-fix days to make four hundred and fifty leagues •■» ' ' •' :i^ i •* The firft of September, at the dawn of day, we were at the entrance of a bay, in which we faw feveral fires. Soon after we perceived two veflels under fail, built in form of the Malay boats. We hoifted a Dutch enfign and pendent, and fired a gun, by which I committed a fault without knowing it. We have fince learnt that the inhabitants of Ceram are at war with the Dutch, and that they have expelled the latter from almoft every part of 1768. September. k'Y^m A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 3-^3 of their ifle. Therefore we made a board into the bay without fucccfs, the boats retreated on (here, and wc profited of the frefli breeze to proceed on our courfe. The fliore at the bottom of the bay is low and level, furroundcd by high mountains } and the bay itfelf con- tains feveral iflands. "We were obliged to fleer W. N. W. in order to double a pretty large illand, at the point of which you fee a little ifle or key, and a fand bank, with fome breakers which feem to extend a league out to fea. This ifland is called Bonao i it is divided into two by a very narrow channel. When we had doubled it, we fleered W. by S. till noon. It blew very frefli from S. S. W. to S. S. E. and we plyed the remainder of the day between Bonao, Kelang, and Manipa, endeavouring to make way to the S. W. At ten o'clock in the evening we difcovered the lands of the ifle of Boero, by means of the fires which burnt on it J and as it was my intention to put in there, we pafled the night on our tacks, in order to keep within reach, and if poflSble to the windward of it. I knew ivojee for that the Dutch had a weak inOioiy on this ifle, which was however abundant in refrefliments. As we were perfectly ignorant of the fituation of aflairs in Europe, it was not prudent to venture to learn the firft intel- ligence concerning them among ftrangcrs, but at a place where we were almoft the ftrongeft, -;) r/i^.d v-f' A a a 2 Exccf- our fafcty. Kl* 4.f \s 3^4 Sad condi- tion of the fliip's com- panies. A VOYAOE ROUND THE WORLb. Exceffive marks of joy accompanied our diicovering the entrance of the gulph of Cajeli, at break of day. There the Dutch have their fetilement j there too was the place where our greateft mifery was to have an end. The fcurvy had made cruel havock amongft us after we had left Port Praflin j no one could fay he was abfo- lutely free from ir, and half of our fliip's companies were not able to do any duty. If we had kept the fea eight days longer, we mud have loft a great number of men, and we muft all have fallen fick. The provifions which we had now left were fo rotten, and had fo ca- daverous a fmcU, that the hardeft moments of the fad days wc paffed, were thofe when the bell gave us no- tice to take in this difgufting and unwholefome food, I leave every one to judge how much this fituation heightened in our eyes the beautiful afpedl of the coafts of Boero. Ever fmce midnight, a pleafant fcent exhaled from the aromatic plants with which the Moluccas abound, had made an agreeable impreflion upon our organs of fmell, feveral leagues out at fea, and feemcd to be the fore-runner which announced the end of our calamities to us. The a^pecfl of a pretty large town, fituated in the bottom of the gulph ; of fhips at anchor there, and of cattle rambling through the meadows, caufed tranfports which I have doubtlefs felt, but whkh I cannot here defcribe. # We 4 1 1 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 3^^ We were obliged to make feveral boards before we entered into this gulph, of which the northern point is called the point of LiJ'atetto, and that on the S. E. fide, point Rouba. It was ten o'clock before we could fland in for the town. Several boats were failing in the bay j we hoifted Dutch colours, and fired a gun, but not one of them came along-fide ; I then fent a boat to found a-head of the (hip. I was afraid of a bank which lies on the S. E. fide of the gulph. At half an hour pail noon, a periagua conducted by Indians came near the fliip ; the chief perfon alked us in Dutch who we were, but refufed to come on board. How- ever, we advanced, all fails fet, according to the fignals of our boat, which founded a-head. Soon after we faw the bank of which we had dreaded the approach. It was low water, and the danger appeared very plain. It is a chain of rocks mixed with coral, ftretching from the S. E. fliore of the gulph to within a league of point Rouba, and its extent from S. E. to N. W. is half a league. About four times the length of a boat from its extremities, you have five or fix fathoms of water, a foul coral bottom, and from thence you immediately come into feventeen fathoms, fand and ooze. Our courfe was nearly S. W. three leagues, from ten o'clock to half paft one, when we. anchored oppofite the fa<5lory, near feveral little Dutch veflels, not quite a quarter of a league gulph of Cajeli. "I I. i II li'U. i H'^*; a IM ir Z66 T ■ ^im If •jli ♦<-('-'>r-- - ?r:r' \'^U■■^( M_ ! t V I -■ 'W flJ no(),io<'| 'urirtr; We put in at Boero. Embarrafi'- irient of the chief. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, league ofF fliore. We were in tweaty-feven fathoms, fand and ooze, and had the following bearings : PrA?it LiJ/atetto, N. 4° E. two leagues. Point Rouba, N. E. 2° E. half a league. ^ peninfula, W. 10° N. three quarters of a league. . The point of ajboalf which extends above half a league to the offing from the peninjuhy N. W. by W. 'ihefiag of the Dutch faBory, S. by W. t W. The Etoile anchored near us more to the W. N. W. We had hardly let go our anchor, when two Dutch foldiers, without arms, one of them fpeaking French, came on board to afk me on the part of the chief of the facHiory, what motives brought us to this port, when we could not be ignorant that the ihips of the Dutch India company alone had the privilege of entering ir, I fent them back with an officer to declare to the chief, that the neceffity of taking in provifions forced us to enter into the firft port we had met with, without permitting us to pay any regard to the treaties that exclude our {hips from the ports in the Moluccas, and that we fliould leave the harbour as foon as he fiiould have given us what help we flood moft in need cf. The two foldiers returned foon after, to communicate to me an order, figned by the governor of Amboina, upon whom the chief of Boero immediately depends, by which the latter is exprefsly forbid to receive foreign fliips into his port. The A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 3^7 The chief at the fame time begged me to give him a written declaration of my motives for putting in here, in order that he might thereby juftify his condudl in receiving us here, before his fuperior, to whom he would fend the above declaration. His demand was reafonable, and I fatisfied it by giving him a figned de- pofition, in which I declared, that having left the Ma- louines, and intending to go to India by the South Seas, the contrary monfoon, and the want of provifions, had prevented our gaining the Philippinas, and obliged us to go in fearch of the indifpenfable fupplies at the firfl port in the Moluccas, and that I defired him to grant me thefe fupplies in confideration of humanity, the nioft refpcftable of Obligations. o - From this moment we found no difficulties j the Good recep- chief having done his duty for his company, happily «." ^ ^' " acfted a very good natured charaifler, and offered us all he had in as eafy a manner as if he had every thing in his difpofal. Towards five o'clock I went on Ihore with feveral officers, in order to pay him a vifit. Not- withflanding the embarraffinent which our arrival had caufed him, he received us extremely well. He even oflfered us a fupper, and we did not fail to accept of it. When he faw with what pleafure and avidity we de- voured ii, he was better convinced than by our words, that we had reafon to complain of being pinched by hunger. ^n |i; ■. r ■ ■ I 368 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. ■\n Police of the company. hunger. AU the Hollanders were flruck with the higheil degree of furprife, and none of them durft eat any thing for fear of wronging us. One muft have heen a failor, and reduced to the extremities which we had felt for feveral months together, in order to form an idea of the fenfation which the fighc of greens and of a good fupper produced in people in that condition. This fupper was for me one of the mdft delicious mo- ments of my life, efpecially as I haa fent on board the veflels what would afford as good a fupper as ours to every one there. ■' : m' ■ ,.,.,..-, a.. /.«., .^ We agreed that we fliould have venifon every day to fupply our companies with freOi meat, during their Hay ; that at parting we v^re to receive eighteen oxen, fome (heep, and almoft a:s much poultry as we Ihould require. We were obliged to fupply the want of bread with rice» which the Dutch live upon. The iflanders live upon fago bread, which they get out of a palm of that name; this bread looks like the caflava. We could not get great quantities of pulfe, which would have been extremely falutary to us. The people of this country do not cultivate them. The chief was fo good as to give fome to our fick from the company's garden, m-r »» ^•* ^^ - -f - B b b During •s^:? I',' ; i 370 If ' > JJ Particulars concerning the ifle of Boero. • f , A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. ^ During our flay here we had exceeding fine weather. The thermometer generally rofe to 23° during the greateft heat of the day i. the breeze from N. E. and S. E, blowing in day timC; charged in the evening j it then came from the Ihore, and the nights were very cool. We had an opportunity of feeing the interior parts of the ifle j we were allowed to go out a flag-hunting feveral times, in which we took a great deal of plea- fure. The country is charmingly interfperfed with woods, plains, and hillocks, between which the vallies are watered by fine rivulets. The Dutch have brought the firft flags hither, which have multiplied prodi- gioufly, and are delicious eating. Here are likewife wild boars in great plenty, and fome fpecies of wild fowls. • ■ The extent of the ifle of Boero or Burro from eaft to weft is reckoned at eighteen leagues, and from north to fouth at thirteen. It was formerly fubje(5l to the king of Tcrnate, who got a tribute from thence. The principal place in it is Cajeli, fituated at the bottom of the gulph of that name, in a marfliy plain, flretching about four miles beiween the rivers Soweill and jitbo. The latter is the greateft river in the whole ifland, and its water is always very muddy. The landing is very inconvenient here, efpecially at low water, during whicl^ the boats are obliged to flop at a good diflance from d the W ■.~.. — ,.^. n , A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLt>. S7i the beach. The Dutch fettlement, and fourteen Indian habitations, formerly difperfed in fevcral parts of the ifle, but now drawn together round the factory, form the village or town of Cajeli. At firft, the Dutch had built a fort of ftone here j it was blown up by accident in 1680, and fmce that time they have contented them- felves with a fimple enclofure of pallifadoes, mounted with fix fmall cannon, forming a kind of battery ; this is called Fort of Defence, and I took this name for a fort of ironical appellation. The garrifon is commanded by the chief, and confifts of a ferjeant and twenty-five men ; on the whole ifland are not above fifty white people. Some habitations of black people are difperfed on it, and they cultivate rice. WhUft we were here, the Dutch forces were encreafed by three vefTcls, of ■which, the biggefl was the Draak, a fnow, mounting fourteen guns, commanded by a Saxon, whofe name was Kop-le-Clerc ; (he was manned by fifty Europeans, and deftined to cruife among the Moluccas, and ef- pecially to adt againft the people of Papua and Ceram. The natives of the country are cf two clafles, the Moors (Maures) and the Alfourians (Alfouriem), The former live together under the fadlory, being entirely i'^* fubmittcd to the Dutch, who infpire them with a great fear of all foreign nations. They are zealous obfervers of the Mahomedan religion, that is, they make frequent B b b 2 ablu- Account of the natives of the coun- . ' , V ''y ^)77^- 372 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. r^' ku f i/^'! I 'I i -It Wife people. ablutions, eat no pork, and take as many wives as they can fupport, being very jealous of tliem, and keeping them ihut up. Their food is fago, fome fruits, and fifli. On holidays they feaft upon rice, which the com- pany fells them. Their chiefs or orencales are always about the Dutch chief, who feems to have fome regard for them, and by their means keeps the people in order. The company have had the art of fowing the feeds of a reciprocal jealoufy among thefe chiefs ; this aflures them of a general flavery, and the police which they obferve here with regard to the natives, is the fame in all their other factories. If one chief forms a plot, another difcovers it, and immediately informs the Dutch of it. Thefe moors are, upon the whole, ugly, lazy, and not at all warlike. They are greatly afraid of the Pa- pous, or inhabitants of Papua j who come fometimes in numbers of two or three hundred to burn their habi- tations, and to carry off all they can, and efpecially flaves. The remembrance of their laft vifit, made about three years ago, was ftill recent. The Dutch do not make flaves of the natives of Boero j for the company gets thofe, ^hom they employ that way, either from Cele- bes, or from Ceram, as the inhabitants of thefe two ifles fell each other reciprocally. , ,- i- u ,rM., , The Alfourians are a free people, without being ene- mies of the company. They are fatisfied with being in- depen- A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. dependent, and covet not thofe trifles, which the Euro- peans fell or give them in exchange for their liberty. They live difperfed in the inacceflible mountains, which the interior, parts of this ifle contain. There they iubfift upon fa go, fruits, and hunting. Their religion is un- known ; it is faid, that they are not Mahommedans ( for they feed hogs, and likewife eat them. From time to time the ch .j of the Alfourians come to viiit the Dutch chief; they would do as well to flay at home. rxi\f-.n ri. fwju. '..»,..• ■ >\ , ■ 373 hi I do not know whether there were formerly any fpice ^;°^'' b^"*o plantations on this ifle ; but be this as it will, it is ce?;- tain that there are none at prefent. The company gee from this flation nothing but black and white ebony, and fome other fpecies of wood, which are much in rc*^ queft with joiners. There is likewife a fine pepper pUu. tation; the fight of which has convinced us, that pep- per is common on New Britain, as we conje(5lured be- fore. Fruits are but fcarce here ; there are cocoa-nuts, bananas, (haddocks, fome lemons, citrons, bitter-oranges, and a few pine-apples. There grows a very good fort of barley, called ottongy and the fago-borneOf of which they make foups, which feemed abominable to us. The woods are inhabited by a vafl number of birds of va- rious fpecies, and beautiful pi image; and among them are parrots of the greateft beauty. Here is likewife that fpecies i ■':■ \ • - : \4 1 9 t ■ I ,': ' C 37 4 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. mn MV;jCVJ ■■ym 4 i\m f^ecies of wild cat*, which carries its young in a bag under its belly ; the kind of bat, whofe wings are of a monftrous extent f j enormous ferpents, which can fwal- low a whole (heep at once, and another fpecies of fnakes, which is much more dangerous *, becaufe it keeps upon trees, and darts into the eyes of thofe who look into the air as they pafs by. No remedy is as yet found againft the bite of this laft kind ; we killed two of them in one of oiir ftag-hunts. The river Abbo, of which the banks are almofl every where covered with trees of a thick foliage, is infefted "by enormous crocodiles, which devour men and beafts. They go but at night ; and there are inftances of their tak- ing men out of their periaguas. The people keep them from coming near, by carrying lighted torches. The ihores of Boero do not furnifli many fine fliells. Thofe precious fhells, which are an article of commerce with fhe Dutch, arc found on the coaft of Ceram, at Amblaw, and at Banda, from whence they are fent to Batavia. At Amblaw they likewile find tlie moft beautiful kind of cockatoes;'^^^^^"^'^ ^'^'^ -■^'•^^•'"'' '-'1- -J' ^ * M' de Buffbn lias denied the exifttnce of tlio Opojfum or Di^idphis, Linn, in Eaft India, though Pifo, Valerityn, and Le Brun have fcen it in the Moluccas and in Java: M. de Buftbn's own countryman, M. de Bougainville, now likewife aficrts their being upon Boero, in a manner fo little equivocal, that there can be no doubt of the OpofTum genus inhabiting the Eaft Indies, though the particular ipecies is unknown. F. t This is the great Bat of Timate^ Penn, Syn. Quad. p. 359. and Linnxus'j yefptrulli VamtjYUi. F, Henry A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 375 of on our ac- Henry Ouman, the chief at Boero, lives there hke a Good pro- fovereign. He has a hundred (laves for the fervice of ther'Snt liis houfe, and all the necenaries and convenicncies or count. life in abundance. He is an Under-Merchant* ; and this degree is the third in the company's fervice. This man was born at Batavia, and has married a Creole from Amboina. I cannot fufficiently praife his good beha- viour towards us. I make no doubt, but the moment when we entered this port, was a critical one for him ; but he behaved like a man of fenfe. After he had done what his duty to his fuperiors required, he did what he could not be exempted from, with a good grace, and with the good manners of a frank and generous man. His houfe was ours ; we found fomeihing to eat and drink there at all times j and I think this kind of civi- lity was as good as any other, efpecially to people who ftill felt the confequences of famine. He gave us two repalls of ceremony ; the good order, elegance, and plen- ty of which, quite furprifed us in fo inconfiderable a place. The houfe of this honeft Dutchman was very pretty, elegantly furnifhed, and built entirely in the Chinefe tafte. Every thing is fo difpofed about it as to make it cool ; it is furrounded by a garden, and a river runs acrofs it. You come to it from the fea- fhore, through an avenue of very great trees. His wife , . ■'* Sous-Marchand. -■' • •• ' and ..; I ■ ; MP 37<^ A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. *^-MW ' ' ' I hfA '. ^'^ ConJuA of Aotourou at fioero. and daughter were drelFed after the Chinefe fa(hion, and performed ihe honours of the houfe very \7eU. They pafs their time in preparing flowers for diflilla- tion, in making nofegays, and getting fomc betel ready. The air which you breathe in this agreeable houfe is moil dchcioufly pertumed, and we Ihould all very willingly have made a long ftay there : how great was the contrail between this fweet and peaceful iituation, and the unnatural life we had now led for thefe ten months pail? i» • ,, • ' - -- -- ' : - -'• ' I muil mention what impreilion the fight of this Eu- ropean fettlement made upon Aotourou. It wil^ eafily be conceived that his furprife muil have been great at feeing men drefTed like ourfelves, houfes, gardens, and various domeilick animals in abundance, and great va« riety. He could not be tired with looking at thefe ob- je(5ts, which were new to him. He valued above all that hofpitality, which was here cxercifed with an air of fincerity and of acquaintance. As he did not fee us make any exchanges, he apprehended that the people gave us every thing without being paid for it. Upon the whole, he behaved very fenfibly towards the Diilch. He began with giving them to underiland, that in his country he was a chief, and that he had undertaken this voyage with his friends for his own pleafure. In the vifits, at table, and in our walks, he endeavoured to imitate A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 377 imitate us exa(5tly. As I had not taken him with me on the firft vifit which we made, he imagined it was be- caufc his knees are didorted, and abfolutely wanted fome failors to get upon them, to fet them to rights. He of- ten afkcd us, whether Paris was as fine as this factory * 1 On the 6 th, in the afternoon, we had taken on board Ooodnffi of the provific « our rice, cattle, and all other refreOiments. The good 'here. chief's bill was of a confiderable amount ; but we were aflured, that all the'prices were fixed by the company, and that he could not depart from their larifif. The pro- vifions were indeed excellent j the beef and mutton are better by a great deal, than in any other hot country I know i and the fowls are mod delicious there. The butter of Boero has a reputation in this country, which our failors from Bretany found it had not lawfully ac- quired. " * f.i nil K.i'0-» Jfi ifti'ti The 7 th, in the morning, I took on board the fick people, and we made every thing ready, in order to fet fail in the evening with the land-breeze. The frefii provifions, and the falubrious air of Boeio, had done our fick much good. This Hay on ihore, though it laded only fix days, brought them fo far, that they could be cured on board, or at leaft prevented from growing worfe, by means of the refrefhments which we could now give them. Ccc It IP 1 11 (■■:t| 'ill I ■" bf.i-j"iA*je.A.' ■ ^iiiMiin-i,-i,ArfcV„r|-^^y^y>\f 378 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLB. r "■•1 '•'A ^;i I- 1' Ob(erv;-.tions on th? 1 oil • fooiis ail J currents. It would doubtlefs have been very defirable for them, and even for the heahhy men, to have made a longer ftay here ; but the end of the eaftern monfoon being at hand, preflcd us to fet ^ail for Batavia. If the other monfoon was once fet in, it became impoffible for us to go there ; becaufe at that time, befides having the winds contrary to us, we had likewife the currents againft us, which follow the diretftion of the reigning monfoon. It is true, they keep the direction of the preceding mon- foon for near a month after it ; but the changi g of the monfoon, which commonly happens in 0(5lober, may came a month fooner, as well as a month later. In. September there is little wind : in Odlober and Novem- ber ftill lefs ; that being the feafon of calms. The go- vernor of Amboina choofes at this feafon to go his rounds to all the ifles which depend upon his government. June, July, and Auguft, are very rainy. The eaftern monfoon generally blows S. S. E. and S. S. W. to the north of Ceram and Boero ; ir_ tlic ifles of Amboina and Ban- das it blows E. and S. E. The weftern monfoon blows from \V. S. W. and N. W. The month of April is the term when the weftern winds ceafe blowing ; this is the llormy monfoon, as theeafterly one is the rainy monfi on. Captain Clerk told lis, that he had in vain cruized be- fore Amboina, in order to enter it, during ihe whole month of July : he had there fufl'ered continual rains, 4 which A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 37 9 We leave which had made all his peopk fick. It was at the fame time that we were fo well foaked in Port Praflin. There had been three earthquakes this year at Boero, j^*^""^* °" almoft clofe after each other, on the 7 th of June, the i^^*^". I 2th and on the i 7 th of July. It was the 2 2d of the fame month that we felt one on New Britain. Thefe earth- quakes have terrible confequences for navigation in this paj'c of the world. Sometimes they fmk known ifles and fand-banks, and fomefimes they raifc fome, where there were none before ; and we gain nothing by fuch accidents. Navigation would be much fafer, if every thing remained as it is. - ' ■■ ^ « On the 7th afternoon, all our people were on board, and we only waited for the land-breeze, in order to fet Boero. fail. It was not felt till eight o'clock at night. I im- mediately fent a boat with a light to anchor at the point of the bank, which lies on the S. E. fide, and we began to make every thing ready for fetting fail. We had not been milled, when we were informed that the bottom was very good in this anchorage. We made fruiilefs efforts at the capftan for a long time j at lafl the voyal broke, and we could only by the help of our winding- tackle get our anchor out of this ilrong ooze, in wliich it was buried. We did not get vinder fail before eleven o'clock. Having doubled the point of the bank, we hoilled in our boats, as the Etoilc did hers, and we C c c 2 fleered r if 'lit f •■ S^^o A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Iff (IP III ill AflronoiLlcal obferyations. fleered fucceflively N. E. N. E. by N. and N. N. E, in order to go out of the gulph of Cajeli. During our ftay here, M. Verron had made leveral obfervations of diftances on board j the mean refult of which enabled him to determine the longitude of this gulph } and places it 2** j* 3' more to the weft ward than our reckoning, which we had followed after determining the longitude on New Britain. Upon the whole, though we found the true European date current in the ^^^luc- cas, from which it was very natural, we had loft a day by going round the world with the fun's courfe, yet I ihall continue the date of our journals, only mention- ing, that inftead of Wednefday the 7 th, they reckoned Thurfday the 8th in India. I (hall not corre<5t my date, till I come to the iHe of France. •ilpl ■\:' Ei-'* ''f I Mi' ar'*-^W CHAP. ! . j>fr. *" f't^/^'' •^^' Wi, make any fenlible difference till noon. .0 On the 8ih in the /v t: /i> focf /iitt/f ,-ijr/ iOj >7 ^s Ba(a /'/. I lo.f '"I' i..nii™"»mi -nmiiniiimuiiiuiuiiir t\^f K.f)r/n Pan,) C IE A ii T Jitercr'fttr f/jf Tmrl-o/'flu' rieinh Ships /V' Hatavki./// "7 -^.Tf '^ //'tf/ft J.ortii^t iiiMiiu,ui]miiimiiimi- ,*V. v- 11 ^ , ,w I / Ul^^'^'l ,„ .v/.ir./.f,v.,, If till -t fk^ ••j»*/^V,s.//':'''' S^T-:''' "'■*•/''/'■■' Sn" ■■"" immit-i- 1^:^^! ■< 'J'lrl <■ /^/J ,v 1 1: 117° i^f K f'rcni J.t}niti>ii of ^ii^gjf I A 1 1 ') ■ ■((••I ■• ,1 (Ifl ■ I c I ..,..:""'( „, .MAr.lS.Vfj vVi^.-->>-W'-- C>'''-' S" '7^A--"' ** ■•{4' ■ ;' ': '4. 1 41 A VOYAGE ROUNr THE WORLD. 381 CHAP. VII. Run from Boero to Batavia, I'M. -1 A LTHOUGH I was convinced that the Dutch re- 1768. September. prefent the navigation between the Moluccas as DifRcuUies *■ of the navi- much more dangerous than it really is, yet I well gation in the ^ / ' / Moluccas. knew that it was full of flioals and difficulties The greateft difficulty for UR was to have no accurate chart of thefe parts of India, the French charts of them being more proper to caufe the lofs of fhips than to guide them. I could get nothing but vague information, and imperfedt inftrudlions from the Dutch at Boero, When we arrived there, the Draak was going to leave the port in a few days, in order to bring an engineer to Macaflar, and I intended to follow her to that place ; but the refident gave orders to the commander of this fnow to flay at Cajeli till we were gone. Accordingly we fet fail alone, and I dire(5led my courfc fo as to pafs to the northward of Boero, and to go in fearch of the ftraits of Button, which the Dutch call Button-ftraat. We ranged the coaft of Boero at the diftance of about Courfc which a league and a half, and the currents did not feem to make any fen&ble difference till noon. On the 8 th in the ..Jl 38s A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Ill'> mmm Sift S,!t! the morning we perceived the ifles of Kilang and Ma- nipa. From the low land which you find after going out of the gulph of CajcU, the coail is very high, and runs W. N. W. and W. hy N. On rhe pth in the morn- ing we got fight of the ifle of Xullabelhe ; it is. a very inconfiderabic one, and the Dutch have a fadlory tliere, in a redoubt, called CUverO/ad, or the Clover leaf The garrifon confifts of a feijcant and rwenty-five men, under the command of M. Arnoldus Holtman, wlio is only book-keeper. This iflc formerly was one of ihe dependences of the government of Amboina, at prefent it belongs to that of Ternate. Whillt we ran along Boero we had liule wind, and the fettled breezes alnioft the fame as in the bay. The currents during thefe two days fet us near eight leagues to the weflward. We determined this difference with precifion enough, on account of the frequent bearings which we took. On •the lad day they likewife fet us a little to the fouth- ward, which was verified by the meridian altitude ob- ferved on the i oih. We had feen the la!> l.uids of Boero on the 9th, at fnn-fetting ; we found pretty fielli S. and S, S. E. winds out at fea, and we palled fcveral very flrong races -of a tide. We tleercd S. W. whenever the winds permitted, in order to fall in with the land between Wawoni and Button, as I intended to pafs through the flraiis of that name. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 383 name It is pretended that during this fealon it is dan- gerous to keep to the eallward of Button, th;ir one runs the rifle of being thrown upon the coaft by the winds and currents, and that then it is ncceflary, in order to lay it again, to wait for the weftern monfoon s being Nautical ad. vice. pcrfeclly let in. This I have been told by a Dutch mariner, bur I will rot anfwer for rV.e truth of it. I will however ps/fiMvely alfert that the p'llT.ge of the ilraits is infinitely pret-trablc to the oil^r cc^'fe, either to the northward or to the fvathward of the (hoal called Toukanbcflie : this Littci: being full of vifible and hidden dangers, which are dreaded even by thofe who know the coall;. On die I oth in the morning, one Julian Launai, taylor, died of the fcurvy. He began already to grow better, but two cxcefles in drinking brandy carried him ofF. J The I ith, at eight o'clock in the morning, we faw sigtitofthe the land, bearing from V/. by S. to S. S. W. 7 W. At fon;''°' ^''" nine o'clock we found that it was the iile of Wawoai, which is high, erpccially in its middle: at eleven o'clock we difcovered the northern part of Butrcn. At noon we obfervcd in 4° 6' of fouth lat. The northcrmoft point of the ifle of Wawoni then bore W. v N. its fou- thcrmoll point S. W. by W. 4° W. eight or nine leagues diilanr, and the N. E. point of Button, S. W. I W. about nine I Hi' I ■,! r '-'^rv.T-T. ~.:ir". I ■ ' tl 384 Defcriptlon of the en- trance. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. nine leagues diftant. In the afternoon we flood within two leagues of Wawoni, then Hood out into the offing, and kept plying aU night, in order to keep to windward of the ftr^it? of Button, and be ready to enter them at day-bi^ak. The i 2th, at fix o'clock in the morning, it bore between N. W. by W. and W. N. W. and we '.tood in for the north point of Button. At the fame time wc hoillcd out our boats, and kept them in tow. At nine o'clock we opened the ftraits, with a fine breeze, which laftcd till half paft ten o'clock, and freihened again a little before noon. * •' ""' • •'"^' s^Mtr-. , ..•* When you enter thefe ftraits, it is neceflary to range the land of Button, of which the north point is of a middling height, and divided into feveral hummocks. The cape on the larboard fide of the entrance is fteep and bold-to. Several white rocks ly before it, pretty high above . the water, and to the eaft ward is a fine bay, in which we faw a fmall veflel under fail. The oppofitc point of Wawoni is low, tolerably level, and projects to the weftward. The land of Celebes then appears before you, and a pal, ^e opens to the north, between this great ifle and Wawoni j this is a falfe paflage : the fouihern one indeed appears almofl: en- tirely fhut up i there you fee at a great diftance a low land, divided as it were into little ifles or keys. As you advance in the ftraits, you difcover upon the coaft 6 of if A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 385 of Button, great round capes, and fine creeks. Off one of thefe capes arc two rocks, which one miift abfolutely take at a dillance for two fhips under fail j the one pretty large, and the other a fmall one. About a league to the eaftward of them, and a quarter of a league ofl' the coaft, we founded in forty- five fathoms, fand and ooze. The ftraits from the entrance run fuccefllvely S. W. and fouth. , -,...,. At noon we obicrved in 4° 2 9' fouth lat. and were then fomewhat beyond the rocks. They ly ofF a little ifle, behind which there appears to be a fine inlet. There we faw a kind of veflcl in form of a fquare cheft, having a periagua in tow. She made way both by failing and rowing, and ranged the fliore. A French failor, whom we took in at Boero, and who for thefc four years pad had failed with the Dutch in the Mo- luccas, told us that it was a boat of piratical Indians, who endeavour to make prifoners in order to fell them. They feemed to be rather troubled at meeting with us. They furled their fail, and fet their vefiel with fetting poles clofe under the fliore, behind the little ifle. We continued our courfe in the flraits, the winds Afpeaofths turning round with the channel, and permitting us to """ '^ come by degrees from S. W. to fouth. Towards two o'clock in the afternoon we thought the tide began to fet againft us j the fea then vvaflied the lower parts of D d d the ii'' I !j| 1 .' »# p 1 ZS6 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 1^ i'S! Firll anchor- age. the trees upon the coaft, which feems to prove that the flood-tide comes here from the northward, ai Icdd dur- ing this feafon. At half an hour after two o'clock we paflcd a very fine port upon the coaft of Celebes. This land offers a charming profpedt, on account of the va- riety of low lands, hills, and mountains. The landfcape is adorned with a fine verdure, and every thing an- nounces a rich country. Soon after, the ifle of Pange- fani, and the keys to the northward of it, appear fepa- rated, and we diftinguiOied the feveral channels which they form. The high mountains of Celebes appeared above, and to the northward of thefe lands. The ftraits are afterwards formed by this long ifle of Pangafani, and by that of Button. At half paft five o'clock we were locked in fo that we could not fee either the en- trance or the out-let, and we founded in twenty-feven fathoms of water, and an excellent oozy bottom. • ' ' The breeze which then came from E. S. E. obliged us to fail clofe upon it, in order to keep the coafl: of Button on board. At half paft fix o'clock, the wind coming more contrary, and the tide fetting pretty ftrong againft us, we let go a ftream-anchor almoft in the midft of the channel, in the fame foundings which we had before, twenty-feven fathoms, foft ooze ; which is a mark of an equal depth in all this part. The breadth of the ftraits from the entrance to this firft anchorage, 6 varies M A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. varies from fevcn to eight, nine and ten miles. The night was very fine. We fuppofed there were habita- tions on this part of Button, bccaufe we faw fcveral fires there. Pangafani appeared much better peopled to us, if we judge by the great number of fncs on every part of it. This iilc is liere low, level, and co- vered with fine trees, and I ihould not wonder if it contained fpices. ^ ■. i< .. ,. ^ On the I 3ih, a great many periaguas, with out- riggers, furrounded the fliips. The Indians brought us fowls, eggs, bananas, pcrrokeets and cockatoes. They defired to be paid in Dutch money, and efpecially in a plated coin, which is of the value of two French fous and a half. They likewife willingly took knives with red handles. Thefe iflanders came from a condderable plantation on the heights of Button, O|)pofite our an- chorage, occupying the fkirts of five or fix mountains. The land is there entirely cleared, interfered with ditches, and well planted. The habitations lay together in villages, or folitary in the midft of fields, furrounded by hedges. They cultivate rice, maize, potatoes, yam:, and Other roots. We have no where eaten better ba- nanas than we got at this place- Here are likewife abundance of cocoa-nuts, citrons, mangle apples, and ananas or pine- apples. All the people are very tawny, of a fhort ftature, and ugly. Their language, the fame D d d 2 as Z^. Trnflic with tl>e iiihubi* tm.'s. 388 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. v.l'i\ W-m as that of ihe Molucca iiles, is the Malays, and their re- ligion the Mahometan. They fcem to have a great experience in their trade, but are gentle and honeft. They offered us for fale fome pieces of coloured but very coarfc cotton. I fliewed them fome nutmegs and cloves, and afked them to give me fome. They an- fwered that they had fome dried in their houfes, and that whenever they wanted any, they went to get it upon Ceram, and in the neighbourhood of Banda, where the Dutch certainly are not the people to provide them with it. They told me that a great fhip belonging to the company had pafled thro'^gh the ftraits about tea days ago. ' •: '' -^ ■ -■ - • From fun-rifing the wind was weak and contrary, varying from fouth to S. W. I fet fail at half paft ten, with the firil of the flood, and we made many boards without gaining much way. At half paft four o'clock in the afternoon we entered a paffage, which is only four miles broad. It is formed on the fide of Button, by a low, but much projeding point, and leaves to the northward a great bay, in whi« ': are three ifles. Oa the fide of Pangafani it is fo^ .ed by fcven or eight little ifles or keys> covered with wood, and lying at moft half a quarter of a league from the coaft. In one of our boards we ranged thefe keys almoft v»^ithin piftc^ fliot, founding clofe to them with fifteen fathoms with~ out Alt A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 389 out finding bottom. In the channel our foundings were in thirty-fii^e, thirty, and twenty-feven fathoms, oozy bottom. We pafTed without, that is, on the weft fide of the three ifles, upon the coaft of Button. They are of a confiderablc fize, and inhabited. ■^'> *U'<'^ < ' " The coaft of Pangafani here rifes like an amphi- ^^J°^"^^^"* theatre, with a low land at bottom, which I believe is often overflowed. I conclude it from feeing the iflan- ders aUvays fix their habitations upon the fides of the mountains. Perhaps too, as they are almoft always at war with their neighbours, they choofe to leave an in- terval of wood between their huts and the enemies who fliould attempt the landing. It feems even that they are dreaded by the inhabitants of Button, who confider them as pirates, upon whom no reliance can be had. Both parties are like wife ufed to wear the crifs or dagger conftanily in their girdle. At eight o'clock in the evening, the wind dying away entirely, we let go our ftream-anchor in thirty-fix fathoms, bottom of foft ooze. The Etoile anchored to the northward, nearer the land. Thus we had palled the £rft narraw gut or gullet. 'V.; l!-''.'- V" i-*;''J'*' *'-^' '■' ^' ii««ii><-i *•'•'- * ■^•' ■••■■- •■ The 14th, at eight o'clock in the morning, we Third and weighed and made all the failpoffible, thebreei,e being chorage"' faint, and we plied till noon j when, upon feeing a bank to the S. S. W. we anchored in twenty fathoms, (and and ooze^ M - I i ' i< 'At f, m i ^^1^1 it: 1 (,,. ■M' i P' :!l U •.nij; ^j ga rJg ' ^ I t :::^ 390 Nautical ad- vice. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.. ooze, and I fentaboat to found round the bank. In the morning feveral periaguas came alongfide, one am ong them dilplaying Dutch colours at her poop. At her ap- proach, all the others retired to make way for her. She had on board one of their orencaies or chiefs. The com- pany allow them their colours, and the right to carry them. At one o'clock in the afternoon we fet fail again, with a view to gain fome leagues farther j but this was impoflible, the wind being too light and fcant ; we loft about half a league, and at half pall three o'clock we let go our anchor again, in thirteen fathom bottom of fand, ooze, Ihells, and coral. Mean while M. de la Corre, whom I had fent in the boat, to found between the bank and the Ihore, returned and made the following report : Near the bank there is eight or nine fathom of water ; and p,s you go nearer the coaft of Button, which is high and fteep, oppofite a fine bay, you always deepen your water, till you find no bottom with eighty fathom of line, almoft mid- channel between rhe bank and the land. Confequently, if one was becalmed in this part, there would be no anchoring, except near the bank. The bottom is, upon the whole, of a good quality hereabouts. Several other banks ly betwec.i this and the coaft of Pangafani. We cannot therefore fufTiciently recommcxid it, to keep as clofe as poffible to the land of Button in all this ftrait. The A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 391 The good anchorages are along this coaft j it hides no danger ; and, befides this, the winds moft frequently^ blow from thence. From hence, almoft to the out-let of the ftrait, it feems to be nothing but a chain of ifles ; but the reafon of this is, its being interfered by many bays, which muft form excellent ports. The night was very fair and calm. The 15 th, at Continuation and defcrip- five o'clock in the mornings we fet fail with a breeze at Jj"",,'^'''* E. S. E. and we fleered fo as to come clofe to the eaft of Button. At half pad feven o'clock we doubled the bank, and the breeze dying away, I hoifted out the long-boat and barge, and made lignal for the Etoile to do the fame. The tide was favourable, and our boats towed us till three o'clock in the afternoon. We pafled by two ex- cellent bays, where I believe an anchorage might be found; but all along, and very near the high-lhores, there is no bottom. At half after three o'clock the wind blew very frefti at E. S. E. and we made fail to find an anchorage near the narrow pafs, by which one muft go out of thefe flraits. We did not yet difcover any ap- pearances of it. On the contrary, the farther we ad- vanced, the lefs ifTue did we perceive. Tlie lands of both fhores, which over-lap here, appear as one con- tinued coaft, and do not fo much as let one fufped any out-let. t ! J/i.JO< J 'At ■ 'i] W . i " M wml AU^ !■ Z92 Fifth anchor- age. A VOYAGfe ROUND THE WORLD. At half paft four o'clock we were oppofite, and to the weliward of a very op^n bay, and faw a boat of the couniry-people^s, which ieerned to advance into it, to the fouthward* I fent my b?,fge after her, with orders to bring her to me, as I intended to get a pilot by this means. During this time our other boats were em- ployed in founding. Somewhat off fhorc, and almoll oppofite the north point of the bay, they found twenty- five fathom, fand and coral bottom ; and after that they were out of foundings. Iput about, then lay-to under top-fails, in order to give the boats time to found. Af- ter pafling by the entrance of the bay, you find bottom again, all along the land which joins to its foutherly point. Our boats made fignal of 43:, 40, 35, 29, and 28 fathom, oozy bottom; and we worked to gain this anchorage with the help of our long-boats. At half paft five, we let go one of our bower-anchors there, in thirty-five fathom of water, bottom of foft ooze. The Etoile anchored to the fouth ward of us. ,. ; ,- As we were juft come to an anchor, my barge return- ed with the Malayo boat. He had not found it difficult to determine the latter to follow her •, and we took an Indian, who afked four ducatoons (about thirteen fliil- lings llerling) for condu(5ling us j this bargain was foon concluded. The pilot came to ly on board, and his pe- riagua went to wait for him on the other fide of the 4 paflage A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. paflage. He told us, flie was going thither through the bottom of a neighbouring bay, from vvlicnce there was but a (hort portage, or carrying-place, for the periagua. We were, upon the whole, enabled to do without the aflitlance of this pilot ; for fome moments before we anchored, the fun fliining very favourably upon the en- trance of the gut, was the occafion of our difcovering the larboard point of the out-let, bearing S. S. W. 4° W- but one muit guefs which it is ; for it laps over a dou- ble rock, which forms the ftarboard point. Some of our gentlemen employed the reft of the day in walking about on (hore ; they found no habitations near our an- chorage. They like wife fearched the woods, with which all this part is entirely covered, but found no intereft- ing produdion in it. They only met with a little bag near the fliore, containing fome dried nutmegs. . The next morning we began to heave ahead at half paft two o'clock in the morning, and it was four before we got under fail. We could hardly perceive any wind; however, being towed by our boats, we got to the en- trance of the pafTage. JV , , ,, ^ The water was then quite low on both fhorcs ; and as we had hitherto found that the flood-tide fet from the northward, we expelled the favourable return of it eve- ry inftant ; but we were much deceived in our hopes ; for here the flood fets from the fouthward, at leafl dur- E e e '" ing 393 , '• ■* I ■■ mi i ' *^'!P M 'iiil •t;. . \l #.!* ■, t .f^ , j ' i i ^'^ \ 394 A VOYAGE ROUND THE V/ORLD. age ing this feafon, and I know not which are the limits of the two powers. The wind had frefliened confiderably, and was right aft. In vain did we with its afliftance endeavour to flem the tide for an hour and a half ; the sixih anchor- Etoilc, which firft began to fall aftern, anchored near the entrance of the pafTagc, on the fide of Button, in a kind of elbow, where the tide forms a fort of eddy, and is not very fenfibly felt. With the help of the wind I flili flruggled near an hour without lofing ground ; but the v/ind having left mc, I foon left a good mile, and anchored at one o'clock in the afternoon, in thirty fa- thom, bottom of fand and coral. I kept all the fails fct, and fleering the fliip, in order, to cafe my anchor, which was only a light llream-anchor. • • - ',' ' ■ ' • All this day our fliips were furrciinded with peri- aguas. They went to and fro as at a fair, being laden u.e paffage, ^-j]^ refrcQimcnts, curiofities, and pieces of cotton. This commerce was carried on without hindering our mar noeuvres. At four o'clock in the afternoon, the wind having frefliened, and it being almoft high water, we weighed our anchor, and with all our boats a-head of the frigate we entered the pafTage, and were follov*ed by the Etoile, who was towed in the fame manner by her boats. At half paft five o'clock, the narroweft pafs was happily cleared ; and at half an hour after fix we anchor- ed without, in the bay called Bay of Bouton, under the Dutch fettlemcnt. Leaving the Straiis of Button ; I'.e- f\;ription of 45- A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Z9S ' Let US' now return to t^"**: defcription of the paflagc. When you come from the northward, it docs not begin to open till you are within a mile of it. The firft ob- je(5t which ftrikes one, on the fide of Button, is a de- tached ' rock, hollow below, reprcfenting cxu^Slly the figure of a tented galley *, half of whofc cut water is carried away: the buflies which cover it fecm to form the terit ; at low water, this galley joins to the bay ; at high water, it is a little ifle. The land of Button, which is tolerably high in this part, is covered with houfes, and the fea-fhore full of enclofures, for catching Cfli in. The other fliore of the pafTage is perpendicular j its point is diftinguifhable by two feflions, which form as it were two ftories in the rock. After pafling the galley, the lands on both fides are quite fteep, and in fome ^atts eveh hang over the channel. One would think, l:hat the god of the fea had opened a paflage here for his fwelled waters, by allroke of his trident. However, the afpedt of the coaft is charming; that oiF Button is cultivated, rifes like an amphitheatre, and every where full of habitation^, unlefs in fuch places, which by their lleepnefs exclude men from coming at them. The coaft of Pangafani, which is fcarce any thing but one folid * Galtre itntee : we fuppofe M. de Bougainville iheans a galley, with her awn- ings fpicaJ. F. M y>\\ u n ■mJI t:: ..- ' (^ ml'- 'i E e e 2 rock 4 39^ A VOYAGE HOUND THE WORLa 'm i Advice on this naviga- tion. rock, is however covered with trees ; but there appear only two or three habitations on it. uu^^;;^^! lu titvififiv- About a mile and a half to the northward of the paf- fage, nearer Button than Pangafani, we find 20, iSj 15, 12, and 10 fathom, oozy bottom; as we advance to tl foir' vard in the channel, the bottom changes » there '■•:> rand and coral at different depths, from thirty- five to .ivc <^:.tham, and after that you are out of foundings.' - - - ^ ' - ,- - .. .ji ,. .^ The paJQTage is about half a league long j its breadth varies from about 150 to 400 toifes *, as we judged from appearance. The channel goes winding, and on the fide of Pangafani ; for at about two-thu'ds of its length, there is a fifliery, which muft be confidered as a mark to avoid this (hore, and range that of Button. In general it is neceflary, as much as poffible, to keep the middle of the gut. It is likewife fit, unlefs you have a brifk and favourable wind, to have youj boats out ahead, in order to fieer well in the finu- ofities of the channel. The current, upon the whol**, is llrong enough there to. carry you paft in a calm, and even when there is a light contrary wind j but it is not fuflGicient to overcome a brilk head-wind, and to permit your pafling the channel, making Ihort boards under top-fails. When you come out of the gullet,. * Of fix feet French mcufure each. the 8 .!i-.,v.,'l i '>i' >:'■'■ :"a" A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. the land of Button, feveral ifles to the S. W. of ir, and . the lands of Pangafani look as the entrance of . great gulph. Tho beft anchorage there, is oppofite tl. Dutcb fidtilement, about a mile off fhore. ^^ n i; j,,;: . • J. Our pilot from Button, had affiled us with hia knowledge, as far as ."was poffible for a man who knows tl>e particular fituation of thefe parts, but underiland^ nothiiig of the manoeuvres of ourlhips. Hfe took the greateft care to inform us c i: i "' dangers, banks, and anchorages •, only he alv vs luired, that we Ihould fteer right in for the plac. ♦ b. cewe wanted to go, mak- ing no allowance for ou" manner of hugging the wind, in order to be to iwindw * i, and to fecure 'our point. He likewife believed, that we drew eight or ten fathom pf water. In the morning another Indian came on board ;. he was an experienced old man, and we took him to be the father of our pilot. Th^ ftayed with us till the evening, and 1 fent them back in- one of my boats. 1 Their habitation is near the Dutch fadory; They would abfolutely eat none of our provifions, not even, bread J fome bananas and bet^l were their only food. They were not fo religious about drinking* Both the pilot and his father drank great Quantities of brandy; being, doubtlefs, aflured' that Mahomed- had. only forbid them wine.. ;> i-o/ rjdW ..-rf:/^ t'* ' ' Th«^ /Ui ' ')J > ♦ :.'».' 97 m If'" ■Jli I ^^^W vJvi„ .M-f..| 398 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. m .'J Great vifit of the inandcrs. The 1 7 th, at five o'clock in the morning, we were under fail. The wind was on-end j at firll faint, then pretty frefh, and we continued plying. At day-break we faw a whole fwarm of periaguas come out from all parts } they foon furrounded the ihips, and a commerce was eftabliQied, with which, all parties were pleafed. The Indians, w;ithout doubt, difpofed of their provifions to us, to much greater advantage than they could have done to the Dutch ; however they fold them at ^ low rate, and all our failors could get poultry, eggs, and fruit. Both (hips were full of fowls, up as high as the tops. I muft here advife ihofe that pafs this way, to provide thcmfelves, if they can, with the coin which the Dutch make ufe of in the Moluccas j and efpecially with the plated pieces j the value of which is 2y fous. As the Indians did not know the coin which we had, they did not vjili^C' the SpaniQi reals, nor our pieces of I 2 and 24 fous; and often refufcdro take them. Thefe Indians likewife offered to fell fome finer and hand- fomer cottons than we had hitherto fcen, and a prodi- gious quantity of cockatoes and parroquets, of the finefl: plumage, ^^'^^ .-':'^ ;...-^^^ • . Towards nine o'clock in the morning, we were vifit- cd by five orencaies of Button, They came in a boat, which looked like a European one, except its being managed with paddles inftcad of oars. They had a great Dutch /> t T / t that within three years (here had pafTed at different times, three Englifh fhips, which they had furnifhed with water, wood, fowls, and fruit j that they were their friends, and that they conceived, we Ihould be their friends alfo. That inftant their glaffes were filled, and ^> they ZOO ■1 |iiT}l! L ■■!', ,1 400 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Situation iif (he Dutch at Button. ihey had already drank olT fcvcral bumpers. They fur- ther informed mc, that the king of Button rcfided in this dillrii!^ ; and 1 faw plainly that they were ufed to thci more civiUzed manners of the capital. They call him Sultan * ; and have certainly received that name from the Arabians, together with their religion. The, Sultan is defpotic and powiful, if power can be faid to confift in the number of fubjeiHis j for his ifle is large and v/c\\ peopled. The orencaks^ af^ter taking leave of us, made a vifit on board the Etoile. There they likewife drank to the health of their new friends, who were obliged to hand them down into their periaguas. ' < • 1 alked them when they were drinking, whether their ifle produced fpices ? and they anfwered in the negative ; and I readily believe they fpoke the truth, confidering the weak fettlement which the Dutch have here. This flation is compofed of feven or eight bamboo huts, with a kind of pallifadoes, decorated by the pole of a tent. There a ferjeant and three men refidc for the com- pany. This coaft, upon the whole, offers a moft pleaf- ing profpedt ; it is every where cultivated and covered with huts. The plantations of cocoa-nut trees are very frequent on it. The land rifes with a gentle flope, and every where offers cultivated and enclofed fields. The fea-fhore is all full of fifheries. The coafl, which is op- pofite Button, is no lefs pleafing, nor lefs peopled. ■♦ * 7 he word Sultan is not of Arabic, but of Tartarian origin ; but early introduced buo the Arabian language by the Turks that were in the fcrvice of the Caliphs. Y. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 401 vice. Our pilot likewife returned to fee us in the morning, and brought me fomc cocoa-nuts, which were the bed I had as yet tailed. He told me, that when the fun fliould be at its greaicft height, the S. E. breeze would be very frefli, and I gave him a good draught of brandy for fuch good news. We a<5tually faw all the periaguas retire towards eleven o'clock ; they would not venture out to fea at the approach of the brifk wind, which did not fail to blow as the Indian had foretold. A frefli and pretty (Irong breeze at S. E. took us as we made a board upon an iflc to the weft of Button ; it permitfed us to fteer W. S. W. and made us gain a good way againft the tide. I muft here obferve, that one mull take heed of Nautical ad. a bank, which runs pretty far out to Tea from the ifle of which I have juft fpoken. As we plied in the morn- ing, we founded feveral times without finding bottom, with fifty fathoms of line. ^ ,'i , » At noon we obferved in 5" 31^ 30'' fouth lat. and this obfervation, together with that which we had made at the entrance of the i^rait, ferved to determine its length with precifion. At three o'clock we perceived the fouthern extremity of Pangafani. We had ever fince this morning feen the high mountains of the ifle of Cambona, on which there is a peak, whofc fumrait rifes up above the clouds. About half an hour after four we difcovered a part of the. land of Celebes. We F f f hoifled N. ' ■^1(1 ;t' ■ ■'" ''^'i •11' 1" If' :*■ * ii i' IJ :!&3f Remarks on this naviga- tion. 402 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. hoiitcd in our boats at fun-fctting, and fet all fails, fleering W. S. W. till ten o'clock in the evening, when ■we flood W. by S. and we continued this courfe all night, with ftudding-fails fet alow and aloft. My intention was to fall in with the ille of Saleyer, about three or four leagues from its northern point, that is, in 5° s s or 6° of latitude, in order afterwards to go in fcarch of the flrait of the fame name, between this iile and that of Celebes, along which you fail with- out feeing it, as its coafl almoll from Pangafani forms a gulph of immenfe depth. It is likewife neceflary to return in fearch of the ftrait of Saleyer, when you pafs through the Toukan-beffie j and from the above details it muft certainly be concluded, that the courfe through the flrait of Button is in every refpecH: preferable. It is Advantages onc of the fafcfl and moll agreeable navigations that of the pre- . , €cding track. Can be made. It joms all the advantages of the befl harbour to excellent anchorage, and to the pleafure of making way at one's eaie. We had now as great an abundance of frefh provifions on board our ihips as there had been want before. The fcurvy difappeared vifibly ; a great many fluxes were indeed complained of, occafioned by the change of food ; this inconve- nience, which is dangerous in the hot countries, where it commonly is converted into a bloody-flux, flill more fret^uently becomes a fevere ficknefs in the Moluccas,. 8 Bnli \[ ;..:'• 1 fl A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 403 Both on fliore and at fca it is deadly there to llecp in the open air, efpecially when the dew falls. The I 8th in the morning we did not fee land., and p-*''^"? tti-^ ^ Uraits of ba- I believe, that, during night, we loll three leagues by ^'>''^' the currents j we flill continued our courfe to W. by S. At half paft nine o'clock wc had a fair view of the high lands of Saleyer, bearing from W. S. W. to \7. by N. and as we advanced, we difcovered a lefs elevated point, which feems to terminate this ifle to the north- ward. I then fleered from W. by N. fucceflively to N. W. by N. in order to view the flraits well. This paf- fage, y/hich is formed by the lands of Celebes and thofe of Saleyer, is likewife made more narrow by three iiles which feem to fliut it up. The Dutch call them Bou- gerones; and the paffage, the Bout-faron. They have a fettlement upon Saleyer, commanded at prefent by Jan Hendrik Voll, book-keeper. At noon we obfnved in 5° 55' fouth iat. At firft, Defcriptios we thought we faw an ifland to the northward of the age. '^ ^ middle land, which we had taken for the point of Sa- leyer -, but this is a pretty high land, terminated by a point which is conne^fted with Saleyer, by an exceeding low neck of land. Afterwards we difcovered at once two pretty long ifles, of a middle height, about four cr five leagues afunder. And laftly, between thofe two wc perceived a third, which is very little and very low. F f f 2 The H ■I aivi i^ .; I ■ > 5 !'■: I? 'it 1 it'! '; ■ 'f I ;f ! 1^ 404 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. The good pafTage is near this little iflc, cither to the northward or fouthward of it. I determined upon the latttr, which appeared to me to be the largeft. In order to facilitate the defcription, we fhall call the little ifle, J/Ie of the Pafjdge ; and the two others, the one South IfJancU and the other North JJland, When we had fufficiently viewed them, I lay- to at the beginning of night, to wait for the Etoile. She did not come up with us till eight o'clock in the even- ing, and we entned the paflage, keeping in the middle of the channel, which is about fix or feven miles broad. At half pall nine o'clock we bore north and fouth with the Ifle of the Paflage, and the middle of South Ifland bore from fouth to S. by E. I then fl:eered W. by S. at one o'clock in iiAe morning, then lay-to with the lar- board-tack till four o'clock in the morning. Before, and in the paflage, we founded feveral times with the hand-lead, finding no bottom with twenty and twenty- five fathoms of line. On the i 9th at day-break we came near, and ranged the coaft of Celebes at the di- Defcription ftauce of thrcc or four miles. It is really diflicult to ofCeieC fee a finer country in the world. In the back- ground there appear high mountains, at the foot of which ex- tends an immenfe plain, every where cultivated, and covered with houfes. The fea-fliore forms a continued plantation of cocoa-nut trees, and the eye of a failor, who A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. who has but juft left off fait provifions, fees with rap- ture great herds of cattle grazing in tliefe agreeable plains, embelliOied with groves at various diftances. The population feeras to be confiderable in this part. At half an hour after noon we were oppofite a great vil- lage, of which, the habitations, fituated amidil the co- coa-nut trees, for a confiderable fpacc, followed the di- reftion of the coaft, along which you find eighteen and twenty fathoms of water, bottom of grey fand j but this depth decreafes as you approach the fhore. This fouthern part of Celebes is terAiinated by three long points, v/hich are level and low, and between which there are two pretty deep bays. Towards two o'clock we chafed a Malayo boat, hoping to find fome- body in it who might have pra(n:ical knowledge of thefe lliores. The boat immediately fled towards the fhore, and when we joined her within reach of mufket-flliot, {he was between the land and us, and we were in no more than feven fathoms of water. I fired three or four guns at herj which flie did not attend to. She cer- tainly took us for a Dutch fliip, and was afraid of fla- very. Almoft all the people of this coail are pirates, and the Dutch make flaves of them whenever they take any. Being obliged to abandon the purfuit of this boat, I ordered the Etoile's canoe to found a-head of us. 405' m "r ^'*t i': Vmn' f m i f wM I ' tii-H Wii 406 Difiiculty of the navipa- tioii ill this part. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. We were at this time almofl oppofitc the third point of Celebes, named Tanakeka, after which, tlie coatt tends to N. N. W. Almoft to the N. W. of this point are four ifles, of which the moil confiderable named Tanakeka, like the S. W. point of Celebes, is low, level, and about three leagues long. The three others, more northerly than thefe, are very fmall. It was not ne- cefTary to double the dangerous flioal of BrUI or the Spcdlacles, which I take to be north and fouth of Ta- nakeka, at the diilance of four or five leagues to the . utmoft. Two paflagcs lay before us, one between point Tanakeka and the ifles, (and it is pre .^.adcd that this is followed by the Dutch) the otlier between the ifle of Tanakeka and the Spe«5lacles ; 1 preferred the latter, through which the courfe is raor ; 'imple, and which I took to be the wideft. I ordered the Etoile'r boat to diredl her cotn-fe in fuch a mannr- as to v^k vithin a league and a half of the ifle of Tanakeka, and I followed her under top- fails, the Etoile keeping in our wake. We pafTed over eight, nine, ten, eleven and twelve fathoms of water, fleering from W. N. W. to W. by N. and then weft when we came into thirteen, fourteen, fifteen, and fixteen fathoms, the northermoft ifle bearing N. N. E. I then recalled the Etoile's boat, and flood S. W. by S. found- ing every half hour, and always finding fifteen or fix- teen A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 407 teen fathoms, bottom of coarfe grey fand and gravel. At ten o'clock in the evening, the depth cncreafed ; at half paft ten o'clock we founded in feventy fathoms, fand and coral; then we found none with i 20 fathoms of line. At midnight I made fignal for the Etoile to hoifl in her boat, and carry as much fail as flie could, and I fteered S. W. in order to pafs mid-channel, be- tween the SpecTtaclcs and a bank called Saras, founding every hour without find'.;)g bottom. Whenever the wind is not brillc or favourable for doubling the Spec- tacles, it is neceflary to anchor on the coaft of Celebes, in one of the bays, and to wait for fettled weather there ; otherwife you run the rifk of bring thrown upon this dangerous flioal by the cuirents, v^uhout your being able to prevent it. The next day we faw no land ; at ttn odock we Continuatictr of the di-iec- flood 10 W. S. W. and at noon had an obfervaiion in "on of our ctiurfe. 6° 10' louth latitude. Then reckoning that we had doubled the bank of Saras, lead being lurc^ hy ob- - fervation, of being to the 3uthward of it, I fleered weft, and after making fve or fix leagues by this courfe, I ftood W. by N. founding every hour without finding bottom. Thus w kept in the channel between the Seilcnbank and the Hen (PoukJ, to the northward; and the Patcr-nofter and Tangayang to the fouthward, . carrying all fails fet, both night and davj in order to- get ^^■^ Ji i: ^ 1 lili ) -^fi t 1 1 408 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. get time to found, by gaining upon the Ftoile. I was told, that the currents here fet towards the ifleb and bank of Tar.gayang. By the obfcrvation at noon, which was in 5" ^^\ we had, on the contrary, at leall nine i^inutes of diiTcrence north. The beft advice lean give, is to keep fuch a courfe as to be out of foundings ; you arc then fure of being in the channel; if you ap- proach too near the fouthcrn ifles, you would begin to find only thirty fathom of water. We made fail all the day of the 21ft, in order to view the ifles of Alambai. The French charts mark three of them together, and a much larger one to the S. E. of them, feven leagues diftant. This laft does not exifl where they place it; and the ifles of Alambai are all the fuur ifles together. I reckoned myfelf in their latitude at fun-fet, ana fleered W. by S. till we had run the length of them. During day-time we had difpenfed with founding. At eight o'clock in the evening we had forty fathom of water, bottom ot fand and ooze. We then flood S. W. by W. and W. S. W. till fix in the morn- ing ; then reckoning that we had paflTed the ifles of A- lam.baV, we flood W. by S. till noon. During night we always ^ound forty fathom, bottom of foft ooze, till four o'clock, when we found only thirty- eight. At mi night we faw a boat coming towards us j as foon as ii e perceived us, flie hauled her wind, and would not 6 bear 1 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 4^9 bear down to us, though we twice fired a gun. Thefe people are more afraid of the Dutch, than of the firing of guns. Another boar, which we faw in the morning, was not more curious to come near us. At noon w^c obferved in 6° 8' of latitude, and this obfervation fur- ther gave us a diflance of 8' north of our reckoning. We were now paft all the dangers which are fo much Ger.eta'. re- marks on thU dreaded in the navigation from the Moluccas to Bata- navii^iuon. via. The Dutch take the greateft precautions to keep thofe charts fecret by which they fail in thefe parts. It is probable that they magnify the dangers ; at leaft I have feen very few in the (Iraits of Button, Saleyer, and in the lafi: pafTage we had now left, though all thefe three parts had been dcfcribed to us at Boero, as peril- ous beyond meafure. I own that this navigation would be much more difficult from caft to weft. The points of landfall to the eaftward are not fine, and can eafily be mifl^d, whereas thofe to the weft are fine and fafc However, in both courfes, it is efilential to have good ob- fervations of latitude every day. The want of this help might lead one into dangerous miftakes. We could not, in thefe laft days, compute whether the currents fet us eaftward or weftward, as we had had no bear- ings. I muft here mention, that all the French charts of inexaarefs of the known thefe parts cannot be depended upon. They are inac- '^'^'"^'^ °^ ''"* ^ I li (^5S part. curate, JH "■ t* \i life. 41 o A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. curate, not only in regard to the pofition of the coails and ides, but even in the cficntiul latitudes. The llraiis of Button and Saleycr arc extremely faulty; our charts even iiave omitted the three iiles which make this lad pafliige narrower, and ihol'e which ly to the N. N. W. of the illc of Tanakeka. M. d'Aprcs, at lead mentions, that he does not anfwcr for the exadlnefs of his chart of the Moluccas and Philippinas, becaufc he had not been able to obtain fatisfaiflory memoirs concerning tliat part. For the fafety of navigators, I wifh that all thofc, who compile charts, would difplay the fame candour. The map which gave me the greateft affillance, is that of Afia, by M. d' Anvillc, publifhed in 1752. It is very good from Cerani to the iHes of Alambai. On the whole courfe I have verified, by my obfervations, the exadt- nefs of his pofitions, and of the bearings which he gives to the mofl interefting parts of this difTicult navigation. 1 fliall add, that New Guinea and the iiles of Papua come nearer the trutli in this map, than in any other which I had in my hands. I do this juftice to M. d' Anville's work with pleafure. I have known him particularly j and he feemed to me to be as good a citizen as he was a good critic, and a man of great erudition. From the 2 2d in the morning, we continued our courfe W. by S, till the 23d, at eight o'clock in the morning, when we fleered \V. S. W. \Ve found 47, * 45, V, A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 41 r y| 5*, 42, and 41 fathom; and the bottom, 1 Hiall fay it once for all, is here, and upon the whole coaO: of Ja- va, an excellent bottom of fofc oo/e. \Vc fiill found fcvcn minutes diflcrcnce north by the altitude at noon, which we obfcrved in 6"" 24^ The Etoile had made fignal of feeing the land by fix o'clock in the morning ; but the weather becoming fqually, we did not then per- ceive it. After noon I fhaped our courfe more to the fouthward, and at two o'clock we difcovered at maO:- head the north coaft of the ille of Madurc. At fix o'clock we fet it, bearing from S. E. by S. to W. \ S. The ho- rizon was too thick to enable us to compute at what dif- tanccit was. The foundings in the afternoon conftant- ly gave forty fathom. We faw a great many fifliing- boats, fome of which were at anchor, and had thrown out then' nets. The winds, during night, varied from S.E. toS.W. We ran clofe-hauled, with the larboard tacks on board ; and from ten o'clock in the evening had foundings in 2 8, 2 f , and 20 fathom. At nine o'clock in the mornin-^. when we had approached the land, we found 1 7 fathom^ and at noon only ten. The great lands of point Alang upon Java, then bore S. E. by S. of us, about two leagues ; the ifle of Mandali S. W. p*" W. two miles; and the moll wefterly lands, W. S. W. four leagues. Having thefc bearingr^, we obfcrved in 6^^ iz 30''', which was pretty <^' S g 2 con- Sight of the iflu of lavi. m •i. m 8 ■I 4 ■\\ 41 2 '1 > oblcrvailLns. Meeting (ome Dutch flilps. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. conformable to our cftimaicd laiitiule, pricking off our point at noon upon tlie chart of M. d' Apres, according to the bearings I found. lit, That the coafl. of Java is there placed nine or twelve minutes more to the fouthward than it ought to be, by the mean refult of our meridian obfervation. 2d, That the pofition of point Alang is not cxacT: in it, as he makes it run W. S. W. and S. \V. by W. where- as it really runs from the ifle of Mandali W. by S. for about IS miles j after which i- turns to the fouthward, and forms a great gulph. -'-' '» '^" -•: 3d, That he gives too litde extent to this part of the coaft ; and that if we had followed the bearings on his chart, we mufl, from noon to noon, have made thir_ teen miles lefs to the weflward ; either becaufe the coaft had really fo much more extent, or becaufe the currents fet us to the caftward. '■ ' ' '• ' Befides a great number of fi.fliing-boats, we faw in the morning four fliips, of which two Hood the fame courfe as ourfelvcs, and difplayed Dutch colours. To- wards three o'clock we joined one of them, and fpoke with her ; (he was a fnow from Malacca, bound for Ja*- para. Her confort, a three-mafted fliip, likewife com- ing from Malacca, was bound for Saramang. They foon came to an anchor upon the coaft. We ranged it, at the diftance of about three quarters of a league, till four 1 i A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 4x3 four o'clock in ihc evening. Wc then flccicd W. by N. in order not to get deeper into this gulph, and to pals on tlie off fide of a coral-bank, which is about live or lix leagues o£F iliorc. As far as this parr, the coatl of Java is not much elevated near the fea-fiiore, but in the in- terior parts we perceived high mountains. At half pail five o'clock, the middle of the iiles of Carimon-Java bore N. 2° W. about eight leagues. . . .. We Hood W. by N. till four o'clock in the morning, Comfeaionu J-'VU. then well till noon. The day before we had founded in nine and ten fathom near the fliore; wc deepened our water by feven o'clock in the evening} when we found 30, and in the night 32, 34, and 35 fathom. At fun- rife we faw no lands, only fome fhips i and, as ufual, an infinite number of fifliing-boats, Unluckily it was a calm almoft the whole sjih, till five o'clock in the evening. I fay unluckily, by fo much the more, as it was neceflfa-y we (hould have fight of the land before night, in order to dire(5l our courfe in confequence thereof, between Point Indermay, and the llles of Rachit, and afterwards to keep towards the ofTing of fome rocks under water, which are to the weflward of them. From noon, when we had obferved in 6° 2 G' of latitude, we fleered W. and W. by S. but the fun fet before we could fee the land. Some of our people thought, but with- out any certainty, that they perceived the blue moun- ,.., ' tains, 11 IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) k A /. 1.0 I.I ■ 50 ^^" IM lit lii IL25 HI 1.4 1^ 1^ 1.6 WUu i 0> ^ «> ■> ^J^- *%>■* •^ Photogr^hic Sciences Corporalion 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. MSSO (716) S72-4503 m .\ qv S> ^ ^ Li*. ^ 414 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Lrror ii; tlie reckoning of our courie. tains, which are forty leagues ofl' Ijatavia. From fix o'clock in the evening to midnight, we fleered W. and W. by N. founding every hour in twenty-five, twenty- tour, twenty-one, twenty, and nineteen fatlK)ms. At one oVlock in the morning wc ran W. by N. fram two oYlock to four, N. W. then N. W. by W. till fix o'clock. My intention, expecting to be in the middle of the channel between the ifles of Rachit and the land of Java at one o'clock in the morning, was to get to the northward of the rocks. We founded thrice in twenty fathoms, than twenty- two, next iwentythreej and I dien reckoned myfeif three or four leagues to the N. N. W. of the ifles of Rachit. :• i 5«r;. nnar-i^*tf ^Mt^.'-'/fi. I was very much out in my reckoning. On the 2 6ih, the rays of the rifing fun fliewed us the coaift of Java, bearing from S. by W. to weft, fome degrees north, and at half paft fcvcn o'clock we faw from maft-head the illes of Rachit, about fevi n leagues diftant, bearing N. N. W. and N. W. by N. Thefe bearings gave me a prodigious and dangerou's diflfcrcnce with the chart of M. d'Apres. But I fufpended my judgment till the obfervation at noon fliould determine whether this dif- ference was to be attributed to the currents, or whether the chart ought to be charged with it. I ileercd W. by N. and W. N. W. in order to view the coaft well, it be- ing in this part extremely low, and without any moun- A Voyage round the world; 4ii' * mountains in the interior parts. The wind was at S. S. E. S. K. and E. pretty frefli. » u^-^-*! * .*,. -♦.a .w... ■^vAt noon the (buthermoft point of Indcrmay bore E. Caufcsofthis * ' error. by S. 2° S. about four leagues diftant ; the middle of the ifles of Rachit, N. E. five leagues diftant, and the mean refult of the altitude obferved on board, placed us in 6° I 2' of latitude. By this obfervation, and the bearings, it feemed to me that the gulph between the ifle of Mandali and point Indermay, is in the chart laid down lefs brOad from E. to W. by twenty- two minutes than it really is, and that the coaft is therein laid down 16' more foutherly than our obfervations place it. The fame correction iiiuft take place in regard to the ifles of Rachit, by adding, that the diflance between thefe ifles and the eoaft of Java, is at leaft two leagues greater than that which is exprcfled in the chart. In regard to the bearings of the fevtral parts of the coaft from each other, they appeared to me to be cxa(5t enough, as much as we could judge of it by our fucceflive eftima- tions made by fight, and as we ran along. Upon the whole, the differences above-mentioned are very dan- gerous for one who iiiils in this part in night-time, n • All this morning we had found twenty-one, twenty- three, nineteen, and eighteen fathoms. The E. S. E. breeze continued, and we ranged the coaft: at three or four miles diflance, in order to pais to the fouthward of v^/r iv the i ^^1 ,. ' << VjSf 1: 4i« A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. i the hidden rocks, of which I have already fpoken, and which are laid down five or fix leagues to the wefiward of the ifles of Rachit. At one o'clock In the afternoon, a boat which lay at anchor a-head of ue, made fail upon the fiarboard-tack, which made me think that the current then changed, and became contrary to us. We fpoke with her at two o'clock j a Dutchman who commanded her, and who feemed to be the only white man on board, having feme mulattoes with him, faid, he was bound for Amboina and Ternate ; and that he came from Batavia, from whence he was twenty- fix leagues by his reckoning. After coming out of the pafTage of Rachit, and pafilng within the rocks which are under water, I wanted to (land N. W. in order to double two fand-banks, named Perilous Banks, which run pretty far put to fea, between the points Indermay and Sidari. The wind would not admit of ir, and as I could only ftand W. N. W. I let go a ftream anchor, at feven o'clock in the evening, in thirteen fathoms, oozy bottom, about a league off (hore. We could only ply with very Ihort and unfafe tacks between the rocks under water on one fide, and the perilous banks on the other. We had founded fince noon in nineteen, fifteen, fourteen, and ten fathoms. Before we anchored, we made a fhort board to the offing, which brought us in- to thirteen fathoms. ... . , »«« *,,f,%^ We A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, 417 We weighed on the 2 7ih, at two o'clock in the morning, with the land-breeze, which ihis night came from the weft, whereas on the preceding nights they had veered all round from north to fouth by the eaft. Having fleered N. W. we did not fee the land again till eight o'clock in the morning, it being then very low, and almoft overflowed ; we kept the fame courfe till noon, and from our fetting fail to that hour, our found- ings varied from thirteen to fixteen, twenty, twenty-two, twenty-three, and twenty-four fathoms. At half paft ten o'clock we found a coral bottom ; I founded again the moment after, and the bottom was oozy as ufual. At noon we obferved 5" 48 of latitude; we could not fee the land from the deck, as it is fo very low. We fet it from maft-head, bearing from fouth to S. W. by W. at the computed diftance of five or fix leagues. This day's obfervation, compared with the bearings, did not differ above two or three minutes, which this part of Java is placed too much fouth in the chart of M. d'Apres ; but this difl^erence is equal to nothing, becaufe, to make it real, we muft fuppofe the computation of the diftances of the bear- ings perfedly exad. The currents had flill fet us to the northward, and I believe likewife to the weftward. c^nwli.-a av. . ^ H h h The f! "■ 1 ^^;;^sniHp 4i8 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. New error In our reckon- ing. ! : J I u ii The weather was very fine all day, and the wind fa- vourable ; in the afternoon I fhaped our courfe a little more to the northward, in order to avoid the fliallows of the point of Sidari. At midnight, thinking to have paft them, we flood W. by S. and W. S. W. then S. W. feeing that the water, which was nineteen fathoms at one o'clock, was fuccellively encreafed to twenty-fevea fathoms. At ihree o'clock in the morning we perceived an ifle, bearing N. W. t N. about three leagues. Being then convinced that I was more advanced than I at firfl: thought, and even being afraid of pafling by Batavia, I came to an anchor, in order to wait for day-light. At fun-rife we difcerned all the ifles of the bay of Batavia ; the ifle of Edam, on which there is a flag, bore S. E. by S. about four leagues, and the ifle of Onrufl, or of Ca- reening, S. by W. T W. near five leagues : thus we were ten leagues more to the weflward than we had thought ; a difference which may have been occafioned both by the currents, and by the inaccuracy with which the coaft is laid down in the chart. At half pafl ten o'clock in the morning I attempted to fet fail, but the wind dying away immediately, and the tide being contrary, I let go a ftreamanchor under fail. We weighed again at half an hour after noon, ftanding in for the middle of the ifle of Edam, till we were within three quarters of a league of it. The cu- I pola A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 41? pola of the great church at Batavia then bearing fouth, we fleered for it, palling between the beacons which in- dicate the channel. At fix o'clock we anchored in the road in fix fathoms, oozy bottom, without mooring, as it is ufual here to be content only with having another anchor ready to let go. An hour after, the Etoile an- chored to the E. N. E. at two cable's lengths from us. Thus, after keeping the fea for ten months and a half, we arrived on the 28th of September, 1768, at one of Anchor«ge at the fined colonies in the univerfe, where we all looked upon each other as having completed our voyage. ■ Batavia, by my reckoning is in 6** 1 1^ fouth lati- tude, and 104^ 52^ eaft longitude, from the meridian of Paris. ' • • .»Ai*i. . •-•iv. '-i »y t\i .' 'ij^ •■■■J q:;'.j jv>,il /ii^u ijiriv/ jonuto\w> n iiil^W'J , I. .; 1 All: lii,(l 1: i ' -i-'^ ''^ Hhh a .'x'- ioV CHAP. KiE^*lt,v-,»:::i .i :awA<^;w;ai«V./~4-v.iiMA>,i.'. ' I'eStA^'^i^ ■^Jli^^JKi J 420 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. t l-M\ Bll Cercmoriies at our ar- rival. .i.:. -/i.^v::'.! •"-■<':) ? -.» I I: 'NV [.1 t CHAP. VIII. .C''l t.J! Stay at Batavia, ajid part'ictihrs concerning the Moluccas. ii i /• jf 'TpHE unhealthy feafon, which here generally begins at the end of the monfoon, and the approach of the rainy weftern monfoon, determined us to make our flay at Batavia as fhort as poflible. However, notwith- flanding our impatient defire of leaving it, our wants forced us to pafs a certain number of diys there, and the neceflity of getting fome bifcuit baked, which we did not find ready, detained us longer ilian we had imagined. On our arrival, there were thirteen or four- teen of the Dutch company's fliips in the road, one of which was a flag (hip. This is an old fliip which is left at this llation ; it has the jurifdidion of the road, and returns the falute of all the merchant fliips. I had already fent an officer to inform the governor-general of our arrival, when a barge from this flag fliip came on board, with a paper written in Dutch, which I knew nothing of. There was no oflScer in the barge, and the cockfwain, who doubtlcfs aded in his flead, aflced me who we were, and required a certificate, written and figned by me. I anfwcrcl him, that I had fent my dccia- A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 421 declaration on fliorc, and fo I put him off. He returned foon after, infilling upon his fuH demand ; I fcni him away once more with the fame anfwcr, and he put up with it. The officer who liad been font to the general, did not return till nine o'clock in the evening. He had not feen his excellency, who was in the country, and he was brought before the Sabandar, or introducer of ftrangers, who appointed him to return the next morn- ing, and told him, that if I would come on fliore, he would condu(5t me to the general. i\^ s- 1 «-v.aJi;'i ; v"t Vifits are made very early in this country, on account vifit to the general in the of the exceuive heat. We fet out at fix o clock m the country. morning, conducted by the fabandar l" Vanderluys, and we went to M. Vander Para, general of the Eaft- Indies, who was at one of his country-houfes, about three leagues from Batavia. We found him a plain, but civil man, who received us perfe<5lly well, and offered us all the affiftance we could be in need of. He ap- peared neither furprifed nor difpleafed at our having touched at the Moluccas j he even approved of the con- du(5t of the chief refident at Boero, and of his good pro- ceedings in our behalf. He confcnted to have our fick pui into the hofpital of the company, and immediately fent orders thither for their reception. As to the fun- plies which the king's (hips were in want of, it was agreed, that we fliould give in an account of our de- 8 mands Si'f 3 k7 4 \.^ i : ,ii> SisiL''i^'i.i''^-Jr-'-^. , '..f^':^ vafjflj 422 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. mands to the fabandar, who fhoiild be charged with providing us with every thing. One of the perquifites of his place was to gain fomething by us, and fome- thing by the undertakers. When all was fettled, the general afked me, whether I would not falute the flag ; I anfwered I would, on condition that the falute was returned gun for gun from the place. Nothing, fays he, is more equitable, and the citadel has got the proper orders. As foon as I was returned on board, I faluted with fifteen guns, and the town anfwered with the fame number. I immediately fent our fick to the hofpital, from both (hips, being in number twenty-eight, fome dill afflidled with the fcurvy, but the greater part ill of a bloody- flux. We likewife prepared to give in to the fabandar an account of our wants, in bifcuit, wine, flour, frefh meat, and pulfe j and I begged him to let us have our provifion of water by the company's people. We at the fame time thought of getting a lodging in town, during our {lay : this we got in a great and fine houfe, here called the inner kgementt v/here you arc lodged and boarded for two rix dollars a day, fcrvants not ir- cluded, which amounts to about a piftole of our money. This houfe belongs to the company, who let it to a private perfon, and by that means give him the ex- clufive privilege of lodging all ftrangers. However, mea A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. men of war are not fubjct^ to this law, and ihcreforc the officers of the Etoile went to lodge in a private family. We like wife hired feveral carriages, which one cannot abfolutely do without in this great town, efpecially as we intended to vifit its environs, which are infinitely more beautiful than the town itfclf. Thefe hired carriages have room for two perfons, arc drawn by horfes, and their price every day is fome- what more than ten francs (between eight and nine {hillings llerling). On the third day of our arrival, we went in a body to pay a vifit of ceremony to the general, the fabandar having previoufly given him notice of it. He received us in another couatry-fear, named Jacatra, of which the difiance from Batavia is only about a third of that of the houfe where I had been on the firft day. The road which leads to it cannot be better compared than to the place called Boulevards, at Paris, fuppofing them to be embelliihed with a canal of running water on the right and the left. We ought to have made feveral other vifits of ceremony ; likewife introduced by the fabandar, namely, to the diredlor-general, the prefident of juftice, and the chief of the marine. M. Vanderluys told us nothing of it, and we only vifited the latter. His title is Scopenhagen *. Though this * This name is wretchedly disfigured from the Dutch, S*hoMt-h^-Nachty which fignifies Rtar Admiral, F. officer 423 i 4^4 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. su Amuremcnti which are to be found at Batavia. ofTicer only ranks as rear-admiral in the company's fervice, the prefent is however vice-admiral of the Pares general, by a particular favour of the (ladi- holdcr. This prince was willing thus to di(lingui(h a man of quality, who, on account of his broken for- tune, has been obliged to leave the fervice of the dates, whom he has well ferved, and to take the place which he now occupies. ^ .,,,-. ,,^,, ,,, j^.aw ^-.-.f " ,v The Schont'by-Nacht is a member of the high regency, in whofc aflembly he has a feat, and a vote in their debates for the marine affairs j he likewife enjoys all the honours which arc due to the Edel-heers. He keeps a great retinue, lives very high, and makes himfelf amends for the bad moments he has often pafled at fea, by fpending his time ip a delicious villa. - — — -< The principal inhabitants of Batavia endeavoured to make our flay agreeable to us. Great feafts in the town and country, concerts, charming walks, the variety of objedls united here, and mod of them new to us, the fight of the emporium of the richeft commerce in the world ; and, more than this, the appearance of fevcral people who, though of entirely oppofite manners, cuf- toms, and religion, however form one fociety ; every thing in fine concurred to charm the eye, inftrudl the navigator, and intereft even the philofopher. Here is hkewife a pretty good play-houfe j we could judge only of "t i A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 425 of the theatre itfelf, which feemed handfomc to us ; as we did not underfland the language, \vc had fecn enough of it by going there once. We were much more curious to fee the Chine fe comedies, though wc did not underftand any more what wns faid there ; it ° would not be very agreeable to fee them every day, but one ought to fee one of each kind. Independent of the great pieces which are reprefented on a theatre, there are every day fmall pieces and pantomimes, reprefented on fcaflfolds, buih at every corner in the Chinefe quarter. The Roman people called for bread and fhows ; the Chinefe muft have commerce and farces. God forbid I (hould ever again hear the declamations of their aAors and acHrreHes, which is always accompanied with fome inftruments. It is an ovcHlraincd recitative ac- companied, and I know of nothing that can be more ridiculous, except their geftures. I muft likewife ob ferve, that I cannot properly fpeak of their aftors, be- caufe the pans of men are always aded by women. I (hall add too, and allow the reader to make what in- ferences he pleafes, that I have feen blows as frequent on th>- Chinefe ftage, and gain as much applaufe there, as at the Italian comedy, or at Nicolet*s. We could never be tired with walkmg in the environs, Beauty of;-. environs. of Batavia. Every European, though he be ufed to live in the greaieft capitals, muft be ftruck with the mag- I i i nificencc 'if' n ! ). 2 venture to aflert that ihefc environs furpdfs thofc of the grciitefl: cities in France, and approach the magnificence of thofe of Paris. I ought not to omit mentioning a monument, which a private perfon has there ereded to the Muies. Mr. Mohr, the firft clergyman at Batavia, a man of immenfe riches, but more valuable on ac- count of his knowledge and tafte for the fciences, has built an obfervatory, in a garden belonging to one of his country-houles, which would be an ornament to any royal palace. This building, which is fcarcc com- plered, has coft prodigious fums. Its o^wner now does foraething ftill better, he makes obfrrvations in it. He has got the bed inftruments of all kiads^ from Europe, necefTary for the niceft obfcrvations, and he i& cai)able of making ufe of tliera. This aftronomcr, who is doubtlefs the richeft of all the children of Urania, was charmed to fee M. Verron. He defiued he fiiould pafs the lights in his obfervatory ; unluckily, not a iingle one has been favourable to their purpofes. M. Mohr has obferved the laft tranfii of Venus, and has commu- nicated his obfcrvations to the academy of Harlem y they will ferve to determine the longitude of Batavia with precifion, a A VOYAGE HOUND THE WORLD. 4^7 : 1 hough this city is really very fine, it is however interior parts of the tow I . far from anfwering wliat one may evpciH:, after feeing its environs. We fee- few great buildings in it ; but it is well laid cftU : the houfcs are convenicm and pleafant ; the ftreets large, and adorned with a well enibanked ca- nal, and bordered with trees ; the firft to promote clean - linefs, and the latter to procure convcniency by their ihade. It is true, tlicfe canals keep up an uuwholfomc humidity, which renders the (lay at Batavia pernicious to Europeans. The irifalubrity of this climate is like- wife in part attributed to the bad quality of the water ; therefore the rich people at Batavia diink nothing but Seltzer water, which ihey get from Holland at a vaft ex- , pence. The ftreets are not paved; but on each fide there is abroad and fine foot-pavement of free -ftone, or of bricks ; and Dutch cleanlinefs conftantly keeps it in tlie befl: repair. I do not pretend to give an exadt and ^particular defcription of Batavia } that fubjc(5t has often been exhaufted. One may form an idea of that famous place, by knowing that it is built in the tafVe of the fineft towns in Holland, with this jdiffcrence, that on ac- count of the frequent earthquakes, the people cannot raife. their houfes very high, and confequently they have only one ilory, I fliall likcwife not dcfcribc theChinefe camp, which is out of town, nor the police it isfubjedl i !■ n- :k 7:'r' 7V 'jUU^n-riiti ^i1 1 1 2 vn; to, lU>li''> U'- 428 A VOyAGE RO^ND THE WORLD. to, nor their cuftoms^ nor a number of other ihiiigs, which have already been repeatedly faid by others, i(1t,,.> Ricne^ and The luxury 'vhich prevails at Batavia is very ilriking ; luxury of the ' * y inhabitant!, the magnificeocc apd tafle, with which the interior parts of the houfes are decorated, are proofs of the riches of their inhabitants. -We have however been told, that Batavia was not ne^r fo great as ic had bten. » For fome ave forbid private perfons to carry on the commerce between the two In> dies, which was 10 them the fi^urce of an immenfe circulation of riches. I do not cenfure this new regulation of the company, as I do not know v^hat advantages they may have in view in this prohibition. I only know, that the perfons in theii; f<$r.vice ilill know the fecret of making thirtyii forty, an hundr^c|, quid up to'two hundred thou- fand livres, of yearly revenues, of their places, to which the (alariss of fifteen hundred, r>.ree thoufand, and at mpft. fix thqt^r^nd Jiivres are annexe!. But almod all , the inhabit|^;its of Batavij^ are employed by the company. However it is certain, that the price of houfes,. both in the tpwn andp country,.; is more th;iii two thirds below their ancient ^alu^ ; i yet Batavia will always remain more or lefs rich ; bptk by^ means pf the fecret I have juft fpoken of, and becaufe thofe who make a fortune here, find it difficult to bring it over to Europe. There are nootlier means of conveying it to Holland thao through the hands A VOYAGE ftOUND'T^ttE WORLD. 429 - I| Gtands of the company, who take charge of it at the rate of eight per cent, difcount ; but they take but a very little at a from each perfon. Befides this, it is impoffible to fend ; ■ ,. over fuch calh by ftealth j the fpccie, which is current ' ' '' here, lofing twenty-eight per cent, in Europe. The company employs the emperor of Java to ftrike a par- ticular coin, which is the currency throughout India. In no place in the world the different clafles of ped- Particulars concerning pie are lefs confounded together, than at Batavia ; eve- ^^^ fdminu ry one has his rank affigned to him ; this is fixed un- thecompafty. alterably by fome exterior marks ; and the ft iff etiquette is more rigidly obferved here than it ever was at any con- grefs. The ranks of the different ftates pre the high regency, the court of juftice, the clergy, the fervants of the company, the officers of the marine, and^ foil of all,, the m"Utary. ; '■ ^'' ^^^^^^^ 'V-^t 7hi^^f ^o .i.vrH huO ■ The high regency confifls of thie 'g^nml*, who pre- fides there; of the counfellors of the Indies; whoft title is Edele-beeren,oi the pBefideilt of the court of juilic^, and of the Schout-by-Nacht. They meet at the caftle rwice a week. The counfellofs of the Indies^ are now fixteen. in number; but they are not all at Batavia. Some of them have the important goi^emments of the Cape of Good Hope, of Ceylon, of the coaft Of Coromandel, of theeaftern part of Java, of Macaffar, and of Amboina,, and they refide there. Thefe Edele-beercn have the pre- ■"•'•'■' rogaiivG >mM 01 430 A votXci'TRO^trNt) \-At world. m rogative of gilding their carriages all over, and having two running-footmen before them ; whereas every pri- vate perfon can only keep one. It is further fettled, that all coaches muft flop, wlien thofc of the Edekbeereu pafs by ; and the people within, either men or women, are obliged to rife up. The general, befides this diftinftion, is alone permit- ted 10 go with fix horfes; he i& always followed by a guard on horfeback, or at lead by the officers of that guard, and foaie of tlie private men ; when he pafles by, hoth m n and women muft ftep out of their car- riages^ and the coaches of non€ but ihofe of the Edek- heeren can drive to the flight of fleps before his door. I have feen fome of them, who had good fenfe enough tp laugh with us in private at all thcfe pompous prero- gatives. . . : - The court of Jufticc decides without appeal in all civil and criminal caufes. About twenty years ago, they condemned a govcrnoi of Geylon to death. That Edele- hcer was convi«^ed of exercifing horrible oppreflions in his government, and wag executed at Baxavia, on the place oppofitc the citadel. The appointment of the general of the Indies, of the Edele-heeren, and of the members of the court of Juftice, is made out in Europe. The ge- neral, and the high icgency of Batavia, propofe perfons for the other employments, and their choice muft al- ways A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. ways be conGrrned ia Holland. However, the general has the right of giving away all the military ^nefer- ments. One of the mod confiderable and bell places, in point of emolument after the governments, i3 that of commiflary of the country. This officer has the infpec- tion over every thing, which forms the company's de- raelnes upon the Ille of Java, even over the poirelilons and condudt of the fevcial fovercigns of the illand ; he has likswife an abfolute jurifdidion over thofe Javanele, who are the company's fubjccHis. The regulations of iIk police concerning them are very fevere^ and every confiderable oflfcnce is rigoroufly punilhed. The con- flancy of the Javanefe, in fufEering the moft barbarous torments, is iqcredible ; but \vheH they afc executed* they muft have white drawers on, and revcr be behead- ed* If the company fliould rcfufe to have this com- plaifance for them, their authority would be in danger, and the Javanefe would revolt. The reafon of this is obvious : as,, according to their tenets, thty believe t u they would meet in the other world with a bad recep- tion, if they Ihould arrive there without . their heads, and without white drawers ; they like wife dare to be- lieve, that defpotifhi has, a power oyer them only in this world. ,■ ^^ Anotlier employment, which is much fought after, of which the fundtions are agreeable, and ihe revenues con^ fide r able, 431 k.'.St.'^XkluitaB^^i^^^'irSfi-m r.^'w:. a.j^^^-.-M, » 432 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. i i fiderablc, is that of Sibandar, or minifter for foreigners. There are two of them, the fabander of the Chriftians, and that of the Pagans. The former is charged wiih every thing that regards the European foreigners. The latter is vetted with the affairs relative to all the divers Order of the nations of India, comprifmg theChinefe. Thefe laft are places in the jerviccofthe tlic brokers of all the interior commerce of Bataviai company. where their numbers at prefent exceeds a hundred thou- fand. The abundance which has reigned for fome years paft in the markets of this great city, is likewife owing to their labour and care. In general, the order of employ- ments in the company's fervice is as follows : aifittant, book-keeper, under-merchant, merchant, great-merchant, governor. All thefe civil degrees have a uniform, and the military ranks have a kind of correfpondence with them. Thus for example; the major ranks as great- merchant, the captain as under-merchant, &c. but the military can never come to any places in the admini- ftration, without changing their condition. It is very natural, that in a trading company ^ the military body fhould have no influence at all ; thty are there looked upon merely as a body who are kept in pay ; and this idea is here fo much the more applicable, as it confifls entirely of ftrangers. Dcmefncs of The company pofTeffts, in their own right, a confi- the company uDon the ine detablc part of the ifle of Java. All the north coaft, to of Java. , .i^ r 6 the tl ^. ill f A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 433 the e^ftward of Batavia, belongs to them. They have added, feveral years ago, to their poiTeirions, the iilc of Madurc, of which the fovereign had revolted ; and tlie fon is at prefent the governor of that ifle, where his fa- thier had been king. The company have likewife pro- fited of the revolt of the r.ing of Balimbuan, in order to appropriate to themrd /es that fine province, which forms the eaftermoft point of Java. , That prince, who was the brother of the emperor, aihamed of being fub- . jedt to merchants, and by the advice, as it is faid, of the Englifh, (who furniflied him with arms and gun- powder, and even built him a fort) attempted to throw off the yoke. The company fpent two years,, and great fums, in conquering him, and had concluded the war but two months before we came to Batavia. The Dutch had been worfted in the firft battle ; but in the fecond, the Indian ; rince had been taken with all his family, ~ and conduced to the citadel of Batavia, where he died ; a few days after. His fon, and the other perfons of that unhappy family, were to be put aboard the firft veffels, and brought to the Cape of Good Hope, where they v'ill end their days upon the Ifle of Roben. jj ; . . The remaining part of the ifle of Java is divided into Number of principalities feveral kingdoms. The emperor of lava, whofe refi- into which dence lies in the fouthern part of the ifland, has the Java is du * vided. firft rank j next to him is the fultan of Mataran, and the K k k king ■wi 434 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. king of Bantam. Tferibon is governed by three kings, vaffals of the company, whofe confent is likewife ne- ceflary to all the other fovereigns on the ifle, for mount- ing their tottering thrones. They place a European guard round every one of thefe kings, and oblige them to anfvver for their perfons. The company have like- wife four fortified faiflories in the emperor's dominion ; one in the fultan's, four in Bantam, and two in Tferi- bon. Thefe fovereigns are obliged to furnifh the com- pany with provifiions, at a certain rate fixed by the lat- ter. The company receives rice, fugar, coffee, tin, and arrack from them ; and again have the exclufive right of furnifhing them with opium, of which the Javanefe confume great quantities, and the fale of which bring-s ill confiderable profits. - • •* - ,:.,--,, Commerce of Batavia is the emporium or fiaple of all the produc- tions of the Moluccas. The whole crop of fpices is car*- ried thither: the fhips are annually laden with as much as is neceffary for the confumption in Europe, and what remains is burnt. This commerce alone forms the riches, and I may fay afTures the exiflence of the Dutch Eafl India Company j it enables them to bear, not only the immenfe expences, which they mufl incur, but likewife the depredations of the people whom they em- ploy, and which often come to as much as the expences ihemfelves. They accordingly dire(5t their principal cares Batavia. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 43i cares to this cxclufive commerce, and that of Ceylon. I iliall fay nothing of Ceylon, bccaufe I do not know that ifle; the company havejuft put an end there to an ex- penfive war, with more fuccefs than to another in the Perfian gulph, where all their faiflories have been de- (Iroyed. But as we are almoft the only fhips of the ^;ing that penetrated into tlie Moluccas, I mud beg leave to give forae particulars concerning the prefcnt ftate of that important part of the world, which is kept from the knowledge of other nations by the filence of the Dutch, and its great diftance. v- ," - --... .'•' Formerly they only comprifed under the name of Particulars concerning Moluccas, the little illes fituated almoft under the line theMoiuccas. between i/ S. lat. and 50' N. lat. along the weftern coafl of Gilolo ; of which the moll conliderable were Ternate, Tidor, Mothier or Mothir, Machian, and Bachi- an. By degrees that name became common to all the iiles which produced fpices. Banda, Amboina, Ce. ram, Boero, and all the adjacent ifles are ranged under the fame denomination, under which fome have unfuc- cefsfully atti mpted to bring Bouton and Celebes. The Dutch now divide thefe countries, whi^h^ they call the Countries of the Eajl^ into four principal governments, from which the other factories depend, and which again Hand under the high regency of Patavia, Thefe four government? are A^xboina, Banda^ Terp^te, and.Macaflar, K k k 2 Am- I 43^ * A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Covernment of Amboina. Government of Banda. Amboina, of which an Edel-heer is governor, has fix fadlorics dependent upon it, viz. on Amboina itfelf, Hila, and Larique; of which the chiefs rank, die one as merchant, and the other as under^merchant i to the weftward of Amboina, the iiles of Manipa and Boero« on the former of which is only a book-keeper, on the latter our benefactor Hendrick Ouman, under-merchant; Haix>eko, a little iOe, nearly to the £. S. £. of Amboina, where an under-merchant refides ; and, laftly, Saparoea, an ifle likewife to the S. E. and about i s leagues off Amboina. There refides a merchant, in wliofe depen- dency is the little ifle of Neeflaw, whither he fends a ferjeant and fifteen men : there is a little fort built upon a rock at Saparoea, and a good anchorage in a fine bay. This ifle, and that of Neeflaw, could furnifh a whole jBhip's lading of cloves. All the forces of the govern- ment of Amboina actually confifl of no more than i so men, under the command of a captain, a lieutenant, and five enfigns : they have likewife two artillery officers, and an engineer. ,i >i{j;,a .,n: .r ^^ on n- llll.* . . 439 ff' • J • ( • I ' This account of the different ftations which the Dutch poli- tics in the Dutch occupy in the Moluccas, is pretty exadt. The M«iuccai. police which they have there efcablifhed does honour to the underflanding of thofe who were then at the head of the company. "When they had driven the Spaniards and Portuguefe from thence, by the moft fen- fible combination of courage with patience, they well guefled that the expulfion of the Europeans from the Moluccas would not fecurc them the exclufive fpice- trade. The great niimber of thefe ifles made it almoft impoflible for them to guard them all ; and it was not lefs difficult to prevent an illicit intercourfe of thefe iilanders with China, the Phillippinas, Macaflar, and all fmuggling veflels or interlopers that fliould attempt ir. , The company had ftill more to fear, that fome of the trees might be carried off, and that people might fuc- ceed in planting them elfewhere. They refolved there- fore to deftroy as far as they could the fpice trees in all the illands, only leaving them on, fome fmall iflands, which I 1 • .• I ■wapM 440 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. i r » which might eafily be kept j then nothing remained, but to fortify well thefe precious depofitories. They were obliged to keep thofe fovereigns in pay, whofe revenues confifvcd chiefly of this drug, in order to engage them to confent, that the fountain thereof (hould be annihi- lated. Such is the fubfidy of 20,000 rix-dollars, which the Dutch company pays annually the king of Ternate. and fome other princes of the Moluccas. When they could not prevail on any one of thefe fovereigns to burn his fpice-plants, they burnt them in fpite of him, if they were the ftrongeft; or elfe »hey annually bought up the green leaves of the trees, well knowing that they would perilh, after being for three years thus robbed of their foliage, which the Indians were doubtlefs ignorant of. By this means, whilft cinnamon is gathered upon Cey- lon only, Banda alone has been confecrated to the cul- ture of nutmegs ; Amboina, and Uleafter, adjoining to it, to that of cloves, without its being allowed to cultivate either cloves at Banda, or nutmegs at Amboina. Thefe places furnifli more than the whole world can confume. The other ftations of the Dutch, in the Moluccas, are in- tended to prevent other nations from fettling there, to make continual fearches for difcovering and burning all the fpice-trees, and to furniui fubfiftence for thofe ifles where they are cultivated. Upon the whole, all the en- gineers and mariners employed in this part, are obliged 6 when A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. •yhen they leave the fervice, to give up all their charts and plans, and to make oath that they keep none. It is not long fincc that an inhabitant of Batavia has been whipped, branded, and banifhed to a diftant ille, for hav- ing fhewed a plan of the Moluccas to an Englifliman. The fpice-harveft begins in December, and the fhips which are deftincd to take in ladings of it, arrive ai Am- boina and Banda in the courfe of January, and go from thence for Batavia in April and May. Two fliips likewife go annually to Ternate, ar 1 their voyages are regulated by the monfoons. Thf ^e are likewife fome fnows of twelve, or fourteen guns, deftijaed to cruize in thefe parts. Every year the governors of Amboina and Banda ai- fembki towards the middle of September, all the oren- caies or chiefs in their department. They at fiift give them feafts and entertainments for feveral days ; and then they fet out with them in a kind of large boats, called coracores, in order to vifit their governments, and burn all the fuperfluous fpice-piants. The chiefs of every particular faftory are obliged to conae to their governors-general, and to accompany them on this vifi- tation, which generally ends with the end of 0(5l:ober, or at the beginning of November ; and the return from this tour is celebrated by new feftivalg, When we were . •; L 1 1 ,u!i at 441 ■m ;3" 1 -m I ^nijBj.i.wiwm 442 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. i at Boero, M. Ouman Was preparing to fet out for Am- boina, with the Orencaies of his ifland. ngft.^' n* '- The Dutch are now at war with the inhabitants of Ceram ; an ifland that is very rich in cloves. Its inha- bitants would not fufFer their plants to be extirpated, and have driven the company from the principal flations which they occupied on their ground ; they have only kept the little faiStory of Savai, fituated in the northern part of the iflc, where they keep a ferjeant and fifteen men. The Ceramefe have fire-arms and gun-powder, and they all fpeak the Malayo pretty wdl, befidcs their national jargon. The inhabitants of Papua are like- . wife conftanily at war with the company and their vaf- fals. They have been feen in vefFels armed with pcde- reroes, and containing two hundred men. The king of Salviati*, which is one of their greateft iflands, has been taken by furprize, as he was going to do homage to the king of Ternate, whofe vaflal he was, and the Dutch keep him pdfoner. Nothing can be better contrived than the above plan and no meafures could be better concert- ed for eflablilhing and keeping up an exclufive com- merce. Accordingly the company have long en- joyed it J and owe that fplendour to it, which makes '<• * Salawati, F. , V] At A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. them more like a powerful republic, than a fociety of merchants. But I am much miftaken, or the time is nigh at hand, when this commerce will receive a mor- tal ftroke. I may venture to fay, that to defire the de- ftru(5lion of this exclufive trade, would be enough to ef- fed it. The greateft fafety of the Dutch confifts in the ignorance of the reft of Europe concerning the true ftate of thefe ifles, and in the myfterious clouds which wrap this garden of the Hefpcrides in darknefs. But there are difficulties which the force of man cannot overcome, and inconveniencies for which all his wif- dom cannot find a remedy. The Dutch may conftru^ refpetStablc fortifications at Amboina and Bandaj they may fupply them with numerous garrifons ; but when fome years have elapfed, an almoft periodical earth* quake ruins thefe works to the very foundations t and every year the malignity of the climate carries off two thirds of the foldiersj mariners, and workmen which are fent thither. Thefe are evils without remedy j the forts of Banda, which have thus been overthrown three years ago, arebut juft rebuilt ; and thofe of Amboina are Hill in ruins. The company may likewife.have been able to deftroy in fome ifles, a part of the known fpices ; but there are ifles which they do not know, and others too, which they are acquainted with, but which defend therafelves againfl; their efforts. Lll 2 The 443 ■ J* 444 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. The EngUfli now frequent the Moluccas very much j and this is doubilefs not done without fome defign. Se- veral years ago, fome fmall veflels failed from Bencoo- len, and came to examine the paflages, and pick up the neceflary intelligence concerning this difficult naviga- tion. We have feen above, that the natives of Bouton told us of three Englifli (hips lately paffing through thofe ftraits ; we have likewifc made mention of the affillance they gave to the unfortun^e fovereign of Ba- limbuan ; and it feems to be certain, that they likewife furnilh the Ceramefe with powder and arms ; they had even built them a fort, which captain le Clerc told us he had deftroyed, and in which he had found two pieces of cannon. In 1 7 64, M. Watfon, who commanded the Kingfberg^, a frigute of twenty-fix guns, came to the en- trance of Savai, obliged the people, by firing muikets at them, to give him a pilot, who could bring him to the anchorage, and committed many outrages in that weak fa(5tory. He likewife made fome attempt againft the people of Papua ; but it did not fucceed. His long- boat was feized by the Indians, and all the Europeans in it, among the reft, a fon of lord Sandwich's, who was a midfliipman, and commanded the boat, were faften- cd to pofls, circumcifed, and then cruelly miirdered *. * Lord Sandwich's fon never was In any of thefe expeditions ; it therefore is evi- dent, that I'll, de Dougahiviile hixs been mifuubrmed in regard to this particular. F. • . ■ . . i . It 'M n A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. It feems, upon the whole, as if the Englifli do not mean to hide their projects from the Dutch company. About four years ago they formed a ftation in one of the ifles of Papua, called Soho or 'Xnfara. M. Dalrymple, who founded it, was its firft governor ; but the Englifli kept it only for three years. Thty have now aban- doned it, and?^. Dalrymple came to Batavia in 1768, on board the Patty, captain Dodwell, from whence he went to Bencoolen, where the Patty funk in the road *. This ftation furnifked bird's nefts, mother of pearly ivoiy, pearls, and tripans.ov /wallops , a \ind of glue or froth, of which the Chinefc are very fond. What- 1 find extraordinary is, their coming to fell their cargoes at Batavia.; which I know from the merchant who bought them. The fame man aJOTu^ed .me tlsat the Englifli likewife got fpices by mean? of this flation j perhaps they obtained them from the Ceraroefe. I can- not fay. why they have abandoned . it. ; , It. is poffible, that they may already have got a gre^t nuipber of fpioe-trees tranfplanted in one of their pofleflions in . India, and that believing they; were fare of their fuc- cefs, they have abandoned an expenfive ftation, which is but too fuflicicnt to alarm one nation, ao/d give in- formation to another. At Batavia we had the firft ac- * Mr. Dalrymple never was at Batavia, nor Bencoolen ; he left China in January 1763, and arrived in F.ngland in July 1765, fincc when he has never been out of • the kingdom. From whence it muft be obvious, M. dc Bougainville ia entirely miftakeu in what he fays concerning M. Dalrymple. 6 count 44i^ ^1 'Si ^■iOi 44<^ A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 1768. Oftobe-; Difeafes con- traded at Batavia. i count of the fliips, of which we had met with the traces feveral times on our voyage. Mr. Wallace ar- rived at Batavia in January 1768, and failed from thence again almort immediately. T/lr. Carteret who was involuntarily feparaied from his chief, foon after leaving the Ikaiis of Magalhaens, has made a much longer voyage, and his adventures I believe mult have been far more complicated. He came to MacalTar at the end of Marcli of the fame year, having loll almoll all liis aew, and his fhip being in a rotten condition. The Diitch wauld not bear him at Jonpandam, and ient him back to Bontain, hardly confenting to his taking Moors to replace the lofs of his people ; after -flaying two months in the ifle of Celebes, he came to Batavia on the 3d of June, careened there, and failed from thence the rj'th of September, that is, only twelve days before we arrived there* M. Carteret has faid veiy little about his voyage here ; however, he has men- tioned enough to let the people know, that in a paflfage 4)y him called St. George's flrait, he had had a fight with the Indians, whofe arrows he fhewed, with which they have woundetl feveral of his people, and among the reft, the next in command after him, who even left Batavia without being cured. " - j j . : :.' We had fcarce been above eight or ten days at Ba- tavia, when the difeafes began to make their appear- ance. 1 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 447 ancc. From the beft ftate of health, in all appearance, people were in three days brought to the grav». Se- veral of us fell ill of violent fevers, and our fick found no relief at the hofpital. I accelerated as much as I could the difpatch of our aflfairs ; but our fabandar like- wife falling fick, and not being able to do any bufmefs, we met with difficulties and delays. I was not ready before the 16 th of Odoter to go out, and I weighed, in order to anchor without the road. The Etoile was to get her bifcuit on board that day. She completed the flowing of it in the night, and as foon as the wind . permitted, fhe came to anchor hear us* Almoft every officer oh board my ihip was already fick, or felt a dif- pofition towards it.. The number .oJ|^xes had not de^ credfed among the crews, and if We Radinad& a longer ftay at Batavia, it would certainly ha^e madfe greater havock among us than the whole voyage. Our man from Taiti, who had dgubtlefs been (heltcrid from the influence of the climate by the extafy ihto'-whieh every thing that he faw threw him, fell fick during the laft days, and his illnefs has been of a long duration, though his docility in taking phyfitk was quite ''qual to that of a man born at Paris : however, Tvhen he fpeaks of Batavia, he always calls it the land which kills, enoua mat^, ' ^^^V.^- -' --OJ^^ n^3'J 33ir,:)i doh - >■' CHAP. ':. w . m 448 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. i '1 >»; !-. •. (!■ f r 'i ^ >!'' CHAT. IX. Departure from Batavia ; touching at the ijle of France ; return to France. ^T^HE 1 6 th of Odober, I fet fail alone from the road "■■ of Batavia, in order to anchor in feven fathom and a half, bottom of foft ooze, about a league in the off- ing. I was thus half a mile W. N. W. of the beacon, which is left on the ftarboard fide, when you enter the road of Batavia. The ifle of Edam bore N. N. E. v E. three leagues. Onruft, N. W. by W. two leagues and a third. Rotterdam, N. 2° W. a league and a half. The Etoile, who could not get her bread before it was late, weighed at three o'clock in the mornings and fleering for the lights, which I kept lighted all night, flie came to an anchor near me. - ~ V •: As the courfe for leaving Batavia is interefting, I T'coTmc^ ^°P^ ^ ^^^ ^^ allowed to mention the particulars of be'^'takcTin ^^^^^ which I havc taken. On the 17 th we were under SXavia. fail, by five o'clock in the morning, and we fleered N. by E. in order to pafs to the eaftward of the ifle of Rot- terdam, about half a league j then N. \V. by N. in order to pafs to the fouthward of Horn and Harlem j then W, by A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 449 by N. and W. by S. to range to the northward of the ifles of Amflerdam and Middleburg, upon the laft of which there is a flag ; then weft, leaving on the ftarboard fide a beacon, placed fouih of the Small Cambuis. At noon weobfervedin s° S5 of fouth latitude, and we were then north and fouth with the S. E. point of the Great uambuis, about one mile. From thence I fleered be- tween two beacons, placed, the one to the fouthward of the N. W. point of the G^-^at Cambuis, the other eaft and weft of the ifle of Anthropophagi, or Canibals, otherwife called Pulo Laki. Then you range the coaft at what diftance you will or can. At half paft five o'clock, the currents fetting us towards the iliore, I let go a ftream- anchor in eleven fathoms, oozy bottom, the N. W^ point of the bay of Bantam bearing W. 9° N. about five leagues, and the middle of Pulo Baby, N. W. 1 W. three leagues. 4--*«^-- 7 ^ - , , ,• - -' In order to fail out of Batavia, there is another paf- fage befides that which I have taken. When you leave the road, range the coaft of Java, leaving on the lar- board fide a buoy, which ferves as a beacon, about two leagues and a half from the town ; then you range the ifle of Kepert to the fouthward ; you follow the diredion of the coaft, and pafs between two beacons, fituated, the one to the fouthward of Middelburg ifland, the other oppofite thisj on a bank which joins to the point M m m of m . ■ ' ■■■■.Mt.TIHiH. 450 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. f. M t kariiig the iiraits of SunJ.1. of the main land ; you then find the beacon, which lies to the fouihward of the fmall Cambuis, and then the two routes unite. The particular chart which I give of the run from Baiavia, exadly points out both tracks. The I 8th, at two o'clock in the morning we were under fail ; but wc were forced to anchor again in the evening : it was not till the i pih in the afternoon that we cleared the ftraits of Sonda, pafling to the north- ward of Prince's ifland. At noon we obferved in 6" 30^ fouth latitude, and at four o'clock in the afternoon, being about four leagues off the N. W. point of Prince's ifland, 1 took my departure iipoi* the chart of M, d'Aprcs, in 6° 2 i'^ fouth lat. and io2°ea(l longitude, from the meridian of Paris. In general, you can an- chor every where along the coafl of Java- The Dutch, keep fome fmall ftaiions on it, at fhort difl:ances from^ each other, and every flation has orders to fend a foU dier on board the Ihips which pafs, with a regiller, on. which he begs that the fhip s name, from, whence Ihe come, and whither flie is bound, may be infcribed. You put into this regifter what you pleafe ; but I am far from blaming the cuftom of keeping it, as it may be the means of getting news of a fhip, concerning which, one is often in great anxiety, and as the foldier who carries it on board always brings along with him fowls, turtle, and other refrefliments, which he turns to good A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 451 good account; There was now no longer any fcor- butic complaint, at leaft, no apparent one on board my (hips ; but feveral of the crew were ill of a bioody-flux. I therefore refolvcd to Ihape my courfc for the Ifle of France, without waiting for the Etoilc, and on the 20th I made her the fignrd for that purpofe. In this run we found nothinc: remarkable, except R"" »« t^e the fine weather, which has much fliortened the voyage. We had conftantly a very frcfh wind at S. E. Indeed we flood in need of it, for the number of the difcafed encrcafed daily, they recovered but flovvly, and befides the bloody-flux, fome were likewife afflicfted with hot fevers, of which one of my carpenters died in the night between the 30th and the 31ft. My mafls hkewifc gave me much concern ; I had reafon to fear that the main-maft would break five or fix feet below the cat- harpings ; wc fifhed it, and to eafe it, we got down the main-topgallant-maft, and always kept two reefs in the main-top- fail. Thefe precautions confiderably rjtarded our run ; yet notwithftanding this, on the 1 8th day after leaving Batavia, we got fight of tho Ifle of Ro- Sightofihc drigue *, and the fecond day after that, of the Ifle of ifle of ro- dijgue. FrancCr The ^th of November, at four o'clock in the evening, we were north and fouih of the north eaft point of the * Diego Rays. F, " ' M m m 2 Ifle 1768. November. '^•^ 4Si A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Land-fall at the IHe of France. Iflc of Rodriguc, whence I concluded the following dif- ference in our reckoning from Prince's ifland to Ro- driguc. M. Pingre has there obferved 60" 52' eaft lon- gitude from Paris, and at four o'clock, I was, by my reckoning, in 61" 26'. Thefe fuppofing, that the ob- fcrvation made upon the iile at the habitation, had been taken two minutes to the weftward of the point with which I bore north and fouth at four o'clock, my dif- ference in a run of twelve hundred leagues, was thirty- four minutes a-ftern of the fliip ; the difference of the obfervaiions made on the 3d, by M. Verron, gave for the fame time 1° 12' ahead of the (hip. ,, , We had fight of Round Ifland the 7 th at noon j at five o'clock in the evening we bore north and fouth with its middle. We fired fome guns at the beginning of night, hoping that the fire on the Cannoniers Point would be lighted ; but this fire, which M. d'Apres men- tions in his inftru(5tic )«- is now never lighted ; fo that, after doubling the Coin de Mire, which you may range as clofe as you plcafe, I was much embarrafled in order to avoid a dangerous flioal, which runs above half a league out into the fea oiF. the Cannoniers Point. I kept plying, in order to keep to windward of the port, firing a gun from time to time ; at laft, between eleven and twelve o'clock at night, one of the pilots of the har- bour, who are paid by the king, came on board. I then d thought A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 453 thought I was out of danger, and had given him the , charge of the fliip, when at half paft ilirec o'clock he oancfr run us a-ground, near the Bay of Tombs. Luckily triguicrun there was no fwell ; and the manoeuvre which we quick- ly made, in order to endeavour to call the fliip ofF fliore, fucceeded ; but it may cafily be conceived, how great our grief would have been, if after happily avoid- ing fo many dangers, we had been caft away clofe to our port, through the fault of an ignorant fellow, to whom we were obliged to leave the management of the ihip, by the regulation of the fervice. We got off with the iofs of only forty-five feet of our falfe keel, which was carried away, *' .•.•.-» • r.. .. « • r -> . This accident, of which we had like to have been the KauticnUd. Vice vidims, gives me an opportunity of making the follow- ing refledtion : When you are bound for the Ifle of France and fee that it is impoflible to reach the entrance of the port in day-time, prudence requires, that you mud take care in time, not to be too much entangled vs. 1 the land. It is neceflfary to keep all night on the Oi- fide, and to windward of Round illand, not lying-to, but ply- ing to windward, under a good deal of fail, on account of the currents. Befides, there is anchorage between the little ides ; we have found from thirty to twenty-five fa- thom there, and a fandy bottom; but one muft only anchor there in an extreme cafe of necefllty, • - - r :; On; i If ^m <'.'' i i ^ ■ !| '—■—•' - >^--"--r « 454 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. H Anchorage of On tlic 8th, in the morning, we entered the port^ iranc*. wherc wc moorcd that day. The Etoile appeared at fix oclock in the evening, but could not come in till the next morning. Here we found our reckoning was a day too late, and we again followed the date of the whole world. Particulars of Tlic firft day of my arrival, I fent all my fick pco- our proceed- ings there, pie to the hafpital, I gave in an account of what I want- ed in provifions and ftores, and we immediately fell to 'Wdrk in preparing the frigate for heaving down. I took all the workmen in the port, that could be fpared, and thofe of the Etoile, being determined to depart as foon as I ihould be ready. The i6th and 1 8th we breamed the frigate. We found her flieathing worm- eaten, but her bottom was as found as when (he came off the flocks. ; . . ., We were obliged to change fome of our mafts here. 'Our main-mafl; had a defed in the heel, and therefore might give way there, as well as in the head, where the main-piece was broken. I got a main-maft all off «one piece, two top-mafts, anchors, cables, and fome twine, which we were in abfolute want of. I returned my old provifions into the king's fl:ores, and took others for five months. I likewife delivered to M. Poivre, the intendant of the Uie of France, all the iron and nails cm- barked on board the Etoile^ my alembic and recipient, many A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 4 ? ? many medicines, and a number of merchandifeSy which now becvimc ufclcfs to us, and were wanted in this co- lony. I hkcwife gave three and twenty foldiers to the legion, as they afked my leave to be incorporated in it, Mellieurs Conijiierfon and Verron, b(Jth confented to de- fer their return to France ; the former, in order to en- tjuire into the natural hiftory of thefe iiles, and of Ma- dagafcar ; the latter, in order to be more ready to go and pbfervc the tranfit of Venus in India; I was like- wife defired to leaver behind M. de Roraainville, an en- gineer, fo^i& young volunteers,, and fome under- pilots, for the navigation in the feveral parts of India. ,\Ve were hftppy. after fo long a voyage, to be ftill in Lofsottwo officers. a con4"iQTi to eiirich this colony with men and neceflary goods. The joy which I feU on this occaiion, was cruel- ly converted into grief, by the lofs which we here fuiTered, by the death of the chevalier du Bouchage, en- fign of the king's fliips, and a man of cjiftinguiQied merit, who joined all the qualities of the heart and mind which endear a man to his friends, to that knowledge which forms a complete fea-ofEcer. The friendly care and all thq fkill of M. de la Porte, our fur- geon, could not fave him. He expired in my arms, the I 9th of November, of a flux, which had begun at Ba- tavia. A few days after, a young fon of M. le Moyne, , commijfaireordonnateur of the marine, who embarked as 2l> J^ volun* ''■ii i n m '.\ i i' .■;<:' - ' .T i L ' j; j.v !■ 'J^ tn '^ ^ ' "" 1. AS6 A VOYAGE ftdtTND tHE WORLD. M jii'ji i ! M volunteer with me, and had lately been made a garde de la marine *, died of a peroral difeafe. In the Ifle of France I admired the forges, which have been eflabliflied there by MefTrs. Roiling and Hermans, There are few fo fine ones in Europe, and thd iron which they make is of the beft kind. It is inconceiveable how much perfeverance, and bow great abilities have been neceflary to make this undertaking more complete, and what fums it has coft. He has now nine hundred negroes, from which M. tiermans has drawn out and exercifed a battalion of two hundred men, who are' ani- mated by a kind of ambition. They are very nice in the choi<:c of their comrades, and refufe to admit all thofe who have been guilty of the leaft roguery. Thus we fee fentiments of honour combined with flavery f. # Equal to our midfhlpman. F.- ' ^' '■> , •-■ fWe are very ready to do juftice to Mr. BougainTille, when he prcfents us with a new and interefting obfervation ; but when he, without the leaft neceffity, be- comes the advocate of tyranny and oppreflion, we cannot let thefe fentiments pafs unnoticed. It would have appeared to us impoflible, that fuch an idea as this could enter into any man's head who is in his right fenfes : he wrote down this ftrange aftertion, either bejing carried away by the itch to fay fomething extraordinary and paradoxical, or in order to make flavery more tolerable to his fellow Frenchmen— .Slavery endeavours to extirpate and to fmother all fentiments of honour, which only can operate in the breaft of a rcaijy f«?e man j true honour, therefore, and flaverv, are in dirc£l rppofition, and can be combined as little as fire and water. If Mr. B. threw this fentence out, in order to alleviate the yoke of tyranny his f.iraiitrv f^ro;ins under, avc think wc could excufe it in fomc meafure, as he would then ad from principles of humanity. But if the irrefiftible defire of faying i'omcthing new was tlit," prevalent motive with him, it has much the appearance .!S if he were willing to infult tlie poor viftims of defpotifm. The generous and amii'.bJo chura£l:er which M. B, from other inrtances appears in, prompts us I') wifli, that this fciUencc Iiad bceji omitted hy him. V, 4 Dur- A VOTAGE ROUND THE AVORLD. /j57 During our llay here, we conftantly enjoyed the fauefl 176^. Dc;.cnibcr. weather imaginable. The 5 th )f December, the Hvy began to be covered v/ith thick clouds, the mountains were wrapt in fogs ; and every thing announced the ap- proaching feafon of rain, and the hurricane which is felt in ihefe ifles almoft .every year. The loth I was Departure from the Iflc ready to fet fiiil. The rain and the wind right on end of France. did not allow it. I could not fail till the i 2th in the morning, leaving the Etoile juit when (he was going to be careened. This veirel could not be fit for going out before the end of the month, and our junction was now no longer necefTary, This flore-fhip left the ifle of France towards the end of December, and arrived in France a month after me. I took my departure at noon, in the obferved S. lat. of 2 0° 2 2. and 5 4° 40' caft longi- tude from Paris. The weather was at firfl very cloudy, with fqualls Run to the Cape of and rain. We could not fee the ille of Bourbon. As Good Hope. we got further from the land, the weather cleared up by degrees. The wind was fair and blew frefli ; but our new main-mail foon caufed us as much anxiety as the iirft. It defcribed fo confiderable an arch at the head, that I durft not make ufe of the top gallant-fail, nor -carry the top-fails hoifted up. From the 2 2d of December to the 8th of January, Bad weather which we we had a conftant head-wind, bad weather, or calms. n^«t\vith. N n n I was I" ^^'1 I, 1 i8. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. m 1768. January. I was told, that thefe weft winds were quite without example at this feafon. They however retarded us for a fortnight fucceilively, during which we kept trying or beating to windward with a very great fea. We got fight of the coaft of Africa before we had any foundings^ When we fiifl faw this land, which we took to be the Cape of Shoals, fCabo dos Baxos) we had no bottom. On the 30th we founded .78 fathooi, and from that day we kept on Bank Aguilhas, being a' *ioft conftantly in fight of the land. We foon fell in with feveral Dutch (hips, of the Batavia fleet ; their fore-runner fet fail from thence on the 20th of Odlober, and the fleet the 6th of Novem*- ber J the Dutch were ftill more furprifed than we were at the wefterly winds blowing fo much out of feafon. At laft, on the 1 8th of January in-the mo.ning, we Iiad fight of Cape Falfe, and foon after of the Und of Nanticaiad- the Capc of Good Hope. I muft here obferve, that five leagues E. S. E. of Gape Falfe, there is a very dangerous rock under the water; that to the eaflward of the Cape of Good Hope, there is a reef extending about one third of a league to the ofling, and that at the foot of the Cape itfelf there is a rock running out to fea to the fame diflance. I was come up with a Dutch fhip, which I had perceived in the morning, and I had fhortened fail, in order not to pafs by her, but to follow her if flie in- tended to enter in the night*timc. At feven o'clock in the - -. . evening, vjce. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WOllLD. 459 evening, fhe took in her top-gallant-fails, ftudding-fails, and even top-fails ; I then ilood out to fea, and plyed all nighr, with a very frefti fouiherly wind, varying fromS.S. E.to S. S. W. "- '* ''-^' •.^'^■^'^>-'rw oi nfi-rjtj lo At day-break, the currents had fet us near nine leagues to the W. N. W. the Dutch fhip was above four leagues to the leeward of us, and we were obliged to croud fail, in order to make good again what we had loft. Therefore tho^j who muft pafs the night on their boards, with the intention of entering the bay of the , Cape in the morning, would do well to bring-to at the eaftern point of the Cape of Good Hope, keeping about three leagues off fhore; being in this pofition, the currents will fet them in a good fituation for entering early in the morning. At nine o'clock in the morning we anchored in Table-bay, at the Cape, at the head of the road, and we moored N.N. E. and S. S. W. Here were fourteen fliips of feveral nations, and feveral others arrived during our ftay. Captain Carteret had faile-d from hence on Epiphany-day. We fainted' the town with fifteen guns, and they returned the falute with an equal number. ' •'''- ^nrru.oi >bui l a :.i.a. ...... .q^ We had all pollible reafons to be content with the we touch at governor and inhabitants of the Cape of Good Hope ; Good Hope, they were defirous of procuring us all that is ufeful and agreeable. 1 (hall not (lop to defcribe this place, which :•'■!* N n n 2 every rl«i i I tit' m 1^1 1i V M I I W ill Ml 'm t ' mmmm'mimiiiiaimSa^ 460 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Cv^ery body knows. The Cape immediately depends upon Europe, and not upon Baiavia, neiilicr with regard ro-its civil and military adminiftration, nor to the appoint- nient of pcrfous to places. It is even fufHcicnt to have had an employment at the Cape, to exclude one from obtaining one at Batavia. However, the council of the Cape correfponds with that of Batavia, with regard to commercial affairs . It confifts of eight perfons, among which is the goverrxol^ who is the prefident. The go- vernor does not belong to the court of juftice, where the fccond in command prelides j he only figns the fen- tcnces of death. There is a militaiy ftation at Falfe Bay, and one at the bay of Saldagna. The latter, which forms an excel- lent harbour, Iheltered from all winds, could not be made the chief place, becaufe it has no water. They are now working to encreafe the fettlement at Falfe Bay; there the fliips anchor in winter, when they are forbid lying in the bay of the Cape. There you find the fame afliftance, and every thing as cheap as at the Cape itfelf. The diftance over land of thefe two places, is eight leagues, and the road very bad. Particulars Nearly half way between them both is the d'ftricl concerning the vineyards of Conflautia, which produces the famous wine of that •It Condantia. name. This vineyard, where they cultivate the Spanifh mufcade vines, is very fmall, but it is not true that it belongs A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. belongs to the company, or that it is furrounded, as people believe here, by walls, and watched. It is dif- tinguilhed into High and Litde Conftantia, fcparated by a hedge, and belonging to two difl'crent proprietors. The wine which is made there is nearly alike in qua- lity, though each of the two Conftiniias has its par- tifans. In common years they make a hundred and twenty or a hundred and thirty barriqnes of this wine, of which the company takes a third at a ftated price, and the reft is fold to every buyer that ofFers. The price at prefent is thirty piaftres or dollars the barrel of feventy bottles of white wine, and thirty-five piaftres for the fame quantity of red wine. My officers and myfelf went to dine with M. Vanderfpie, the proprietor of High Conftantia. He treated us in the beft manner poflible, and .tc there drank a good deal of his wine, both at dinner, and in tafting the dilTerent forts, in order to make our provifion of them. ^ ^,t^ . ,,/ The foil of Conftantia is a fandy gravel, lying op a gentle flope. They cultivate the vines without props, and leave only a fmall nuinber of buds when they cut them. They make the wine by putting the grapes without their grains into the vefTel, The full cafks are kept in a cellar level with the ground, in which the air has a free circulation. As we returned from Conftantia, we vifited two country-houfes belonging to the governor. 2 The 461 ■■ "" li i i i i -1 1 mmmmJWM 4^2 situation of the Dutch at the Cape. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. A The largdl, named Newland, has a garden which is much larger than the company's, at the Cape. This laft we have found much inferior to the reputation it has acquired. Some long walks of very high horn-beams, give it the appearance of a garden for fryars, and it is planted with oaks, which thrive very ill there. "'" "^ The Dutch plantations have fpread very much on the whole coaii, and plenty is every where tb , con- fequence of cultivation, becaufe the cultivator is free, fubjecl to tJie laws only, and fure of his property. There are inhabitants almoft a hundred and fifty leagues ■off ihe capital j they have no other enemies to fear than the wild beads ; for the Hottentots do not moleft them. One of the fined parts of the Cape is the colony, which has been called Uttle Rochelle. This is a fectlemcnt of French, driven out of France by the repeal of the cdi(n; of Nantes. It furpafles all the reft in the fertility of the foil, and the indudry of the colonids. They have given this adopted mother the name of their old country, which they dill love, though it has treated them lb hardly, r-.—f- ■•[■{^ ^o Mnv/* >•■ t,n,^ * -^^ ..u*.*... The government fends caravans out from time to time to fearch the interior parts X>( the country. One was out for eight months in 1763. This detachment advanced to the northward, and made, as I was told, iome important dif^overies j however, this journey had ilXJl u. not -f r, A V A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. ,', 463 not the fuccefs which one might have expected j dif- content and difcord got amongft them, and forced the chief to return home, leaving his difcovcncs impcrfe(5t. The Dutch got fight of a yellow nation, with long hair, and feeming very ferocious to them, "''r*^ '^' ^^ ^oil>.' On this journey they found a quadruped of fevenreen feet high of which I have given the drawing to M, de Bu ^11 ; it was a female fuckling a young one, (fawn) 'vhich was only feven feet high. They killed the mother, and took the fawn alive, but it died after a few days march. M» de BufFon aflured me that this is the animal which naturalifts call the giraffe. None of them had been feen after that which was brought to Rome in the time of Csefar, and (hewn there in the amphitheatre. About three years ago they have like- wife found and brought to the Cape, a quadruped of great beauty, which is related to the ox, horfe, and flag, and of which the genus is entirely new. It only lived two months at the Cape ; I have likewifc given M. de BufFon an exa(5l drawing of this animal, whofe flrcngth and fleetnefs equal its beauty. Is is not v^rithout reafon that Africa has been named the niother of monflers. Being provided with good provifions, wines, and re- Departure fiom the frefliments of- all forts, we fet fail from the road of the ^^i'"- Cape the i 7th in the afternoon. We pafTed between ilie iflc of Roben and the coaft; at fix o'clock in the even- w U i"S, >1 I 464 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. ing, the middle of that illc bore S. by E. 1- E. about four leagues diftanr, from whence I took my departure in SS"* 40' fouth latitude, and 15° 48 eafl longitude from Paris, I wanted to join M. Carteret, over whom I had certainly a great advantage in failing ; but he was ftill eleven days before me. ' I direcfted my courfe fo as to get fight of St. Helena, in order to make furc of putting in at Afccnfion iiland, an anchorage which I intended to make beneficial to my Sight of St. crew, hideed we got fight of it the 29th, at two o'clock Helena. after noon, and the bearings which we fct of it gave us no more than eight or ten leagues difl'erence in our reckoning. In the night between the 3d to the 4th of February, being in the latitude of Afccnfion ifland, and being about eighteen leagues from it by my reckoning, I went only under the two top-fails. At day-break we faw the ifle nearly nine leagues diftant, and at eleven o'clock w^e anchored in the north weft creek, or Creek of the Mountain of the Crofs, in twelve fathoms, bot- tom of fand and coral. According to the Abbe la Caille's obfervations, this anchorage is in 7° s4 ^outh latitude, and I 6° i 9' weft longitude from Paris. We had hardly caft anchor, when I hoifted out the boats, and fent out three detachments to catch turtle ; the fir ft in the N. E. creek, rhe fecond in the N. W. creek, oppofite which we were ■, and the third in the Englifli T769. February. .Stopping at Afccnfion. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WOULD. A(>S Englifli creek, which is ia the S. \V. of the ifland. Every thing promifcd a favourahlc capture ; there was no other Ihip than ours, the fcafon was advantageous, and we entered with the new moon. As foon as the detachments were fet off, I made every thing ready for fifliing my two greater mafts under the rigging, viz. the main maft with a fore- top- mad, the heel upwards \ and the fore-maft which was fpUt horizontally between the cheeks, with an oak fifh. In the afternoon the bottle was brought to me which contains the paper whereon the Ihips of every nation generally write their name, when they touch at Afcen- fion ifland. This bottle is depofited in a cavity of the rocks of this bay, where it is equally flickered from rain and the fpray of the fca. In it I found written the Swallow, that Englilh fhip which captain Carteret commanded, and which I was defirous of joining. He arrived here the 3 1 ft of January, and fet fail again on the firft of February ; thus we had already gained fix days upon him, after leaving the cape of Good Hope. I infcribed the Boudeufe, and fent back the bottle. The 5 th was fpent in filhing our mafts under the rigging, which is a very nice operation in a road where ' the fea is rough ; in over- hauling our rigging, and em- barking the turtle. The fiftiery was abundant j feventy turtle had been turned in the night, but we could only O o o take 466 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. I Departure from Afcen fion. line take on board fifty-fix, the others were fet at liberty again. We obfcrved at our anchorage y° 45', variation N. W. The 6 th, at three o'clock in the morning, the turtle being got on board, and the boats hoifled in, we began to weigh our anchors ; at five o'clock we were under fail, happy on account of our capture, and of the hope that our next anchorage would be in our own country. Indeed, we had had a great many fince our departure from Breft. * In leaving Afcenfion ifle, I kept my wind in order to range the Cape Verd ifles as clofe as poflible. The 1 1 th paflinp of the ^^ ^^^ morning we' pafled the line for the fixth time on this voyage, in 2 o** of eftimated longitude. Some days after, when, notwithflanding the fifh with which we had ftrengthened our fore-maft, it cut a very bad figure, we were obliged to fupport it by preventer-flirouds, getting dowri the fore-top-gallant-maft, and almoft always keeping the fore- top fail clofe reefed, and fometimes handed. < ,. • The a^ih in the evening we perceived a fhip to the Swallow, windward, and a-head of us j we kept fight of her dur- ing the night, and joined her the next morning ; it was the Swallow. I offered captain Carteret all the fer- vices that one may render to another at fea. He. wanted nothing, but upon his telling me that they had given him letters for France at the Cape, I fent on board for 6 them. Meeting with A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 467 March. them. He prefentecl me with an arrow which he had got in one of the ifles he had found on his voyage round the world, a voyage that he was far from fufped- ing we had likewife made. His ihip was very fmall, went very ill, and when we took leave of him, he re- mained as it were at anchor. How much he muft have fufFcred in fo bad a veflel, may well be conceived. There were eight leagues difference between his cfti- mated longitude and ours i he reckoned himfelf Co much more to the weftward. We expected to pafs to the eallward of the A9ores, Error in the reckoning of when the 4th of March in the morning we had fight of <>«" courie. the Ifle of Terccra, which we doubled in day-time, rang- »769- ing very clofe along it. The fight of this ifle, fuppofing it well placed on M. Bellin's great chart, would give us about fixty-feven leagues of error to the weftward, in the reckoning of our run -, which indeed is a confider* able error on fo fliort a track as that from Afcerifion to the Agores. It is true that the pofiiion of thefe ifles in longitude, is flill uncertain. But I believe, that in the neighbourhood of the Cape Verd iflands, there arc very ftrong currents. However, it was eflential to us to determine the longitude of the Azores by good af.r. . nomical obfervaiions, and to fettle their diftances and bearings among themfelves. Nothing of all this ij ac- curate on the charts of any nation. They only diflfer " *' ' O o o 2 by %^68 A Vbt'AGJgtlOtrND TttE WORLD. Sight of Ulhant. Arrival at bi. Mulcts. by a greater or leffer degree of error. This important tafk has juft been executed by M. de Fleiirieu, enfign of the king's fliips. H* * r *' '■' . 'i -^^ f^&. . iU5v^*iJ>» I correded my longitude in leaving the Ifle of Tcr- cera, by that which M. de BeUin's great chart afligns to it. We had foundings the i 3th in the afternoon, and the i 4th in the morning we had fight of Ulhant. As the wind was fcant, and the tide contrary to double this ifland, we were forced to ftand off, the wind blow- ing very frefli at weft, and a very great lea. About ten o'clock in the morning, in a violent fquall, the fore- yard broke between the two jear-blocks, and the main-» fail at the fame inftant was blown out of the bolt-rope from clue to ear-ring. We immediately brought to under our main, fore, ' and mizen-ftay-fails, and we fet about repairing the damage ; we bent a new main-fail^ made a fore-yard with a mizen yard, a main- top fail - yard, and a ftudding-fail-boom, and at four o'clock we were again enabled to make fail. We had loft fight of Uiliant, and whilft we lay- to, the wind and fea drove us into the channel. ' Being determined to put into Breft, I refolved to ply with variable winds, from S. W. to N. W. when the 15 th in the morning our people came to inform me, that our fore-maft was near being carried away under the rigging. The Qiock it had received when its yard 7 • ' I ' brokcj. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. t)roke, had made it worfe j aid thougK weliad cafcd its head by lowering the yard, taking in the reefs in the fore-fail, and keeping the fore-top^fail upon the cap clofe ipcfcd, yet we found, after an attentive examina- tion, that this maft could not long refill the pitching caufed by the great fea, we 'being dofe-i"hauled ; ibefides this, all our rigging and blocks were rotten, and we had none to replace them j then how was it poffible in fuch a condition to combat the bad weather of the cq^ui- noxes between two coalls ? I therefore refolved to bear away, and copduc^ the frigate to St. Maloes. That was then the ncareftpon, which could fervd us as an afyliim. I entered it on the i6th in the aftetnoion, having loft only feven men, during two years and four months, which were expired fnice we had left Nantes. :'j -mi:i: r- A 'ntLri Puppibus &lxti Nautre impofuere Coronas, Virg, ^neid. Lib. iv. \«;»i>i#j 'i».*f* <■ ' ""ft ^ ■ .'it,' V • .• f' », '- ,* •" p^s^:' tkm-^r-'y OCA. ... ., -4 • • « ' - 4<^? ml 'ij ^'^¥ iat'j V O C A B U L A R Y 'l ."^--v.-V • ' ^ . OP THE LANGUAGE QP T AI T I .(v;.:bVj.l .if ISLAND. A A. ^' tv, • \ W"; V^ Aibou Aine Aiouu Aipa Aneania Aouaou Aouerere Aouero Aoufi Aoutti Aouira Apalari Ari Arioi ■ BOBp* ^omorrsw^'^'^'^ '\ '1 ft>^\ Come. Girl, (fille) Tiere isfome £a Eal t. \'s^: ■■■". '-*'••, Root '' '" ''. Fi" ^ - Eaiabou ^tf/i-. 2*,^^ /tfri» of nega- Eaiabou-tnaa Vafe which is ufei tiott, there is none. to put their viSlu- Importune^ tedious. _ alsin. Fy, term of con- Eame ' : ' X>rink made ofco- Eani Eao •.■;« j A ■■• -A '■^^A^ Ateatca ■ \\"VvV«, tempts and of dif- pleafure, ^, „ Black, '^^-' ':Egg. '^'' ^f; Iron, gold, ftlver, every metal, or in- firument of metal Eatoua Flyingfifb. Lightning. -;; To break or eteftroy. Cocoa-nut. Bachelor, and a man without chil- Eeva dren. Eie •;>:.■ V. White. I know of no word that legiu with thefe confonants of ours, 5, C, D. Eivi Eiva-eoura coa nuts. All manner of Jight" ing. Clouds, alfo a flower „. in bud, before it opens. . Divinity. The fame word likewife ex' ,^ prejfes his mini' fters^ andalfothe fubordinategoodor evil genii. Mourning. Sail of a periagua. Dance or feftival of the Taitians. Little. .33d » I muft here obferve, that I have not altered the fpelllngof the words at all ; and the reader will therefore take notice, that they iliould be pronounced according to r.hc rules of the French language. F. EiCe VOCABULARY. 471 Eite , Elao -f Emaa Emao Emeitat Emoe Enapo Enene Enia Enninnito Enoanoa Enomoi £noo-te-papa Enoua Enoua-Taiti Enoua-Paris Eb Eoe-tea Eoe-pai Emoure-papa A Eone- Eonou Eote Eoual Eonao Eououa Eoui Eounoa Eouramai Eouri Eouriaye To underjiand. Epao Afly. ^ * ^^ AJling. /ijhark'tit likewife ftgnifies to bite. To give. Tojleep. Tefterday. To difcharge. In, upon. To Jiretch one*s felf yawning. Tofmell well. Term to call, come hither. Sit devm. The earth and its different parts (a country). The country of Taiti. The country of Paris. Tofweat. An arrow. A paddle or oar. The tree frcm which they get the cotton^ orfub- fiance for their fluffs^ the cloth- tree. Sandy duft. Turtle. To kifs (baifer). Rain. Tcfteal or rob. Pimples in the face. To belch or eru£i. Etai Daughter-in-law. Etao Light (not dark' Etaye nefs). Eteina A dancer. A dancing girl. '\ Epata Epepe Epija Epoumaa Epouponi Epoure Epouta Era .., . Era-ouao £ra-ouopo Era-ouavatea Erai Erepo Ero Eri f , Erie V *' . Eroi Erolcva Eroua Erouai Eroupe Luminous vapour in the atmofphere, called a (hooimg- ftar. At Taiti they are looked upon as evil genii. Exclamation to call* one's wife. Butterfly. ,^ Onion. fVhiJlle i they make ufe of it to call the people to their meals. To blow the fire, * To pray. A wound ; this word likewifefig' " fiifies the fear. The fun. Rijing fun. Setting fun. Noon fun. Heaven. Dirty, unclean. Ant. King. Royal. To wajby to cleanfe. Slate. A hole. ,,,..„, To vomit. Very large fpecies of blue pigeon, like thofe which are in the poffeffion of marfhal Soubife. Sea. To dart, or throw. To weep. Elder brother- cr> ftftfr. Etouana U m >-jii 472 VOCABULARY. Tounger brother . .■ orjijtcr, ■?. ' ' *ro go. J^^v> ' ■ ' To ccme hack. nicie Oyjler, rQKX To cuty cut (par- ticip.) A hatchet. . /I turtle dove. ' 1 An eel. To grate,\-\H'l The zvater, Moift. A woman. ' a>^ A houje, Evaroua-t-eatoua^^ w/^. /!^ perfotjs ivhen theyfneeze. Etouana Etere ^^v*- » Ktere-maine Ktio .V. i Etipi •SAV.Vr. Etoi Etoumou Etouna Ecooui Evai" Evaie Evaine E.vana Evare u v'-y "m^ »l0U0U.'»O. : tireou-tataou have feveral of them in their hcufes. Bajket. A fan. Theydetcft itt and burn every thing in a houfe where one has farted. Amufclefhell (nioule.) Colour for marking the body \ with it they make indelible impreffions on dif' fere.ii parts of the body. uriri, and like- wife ouariri To be vexed^ to be angry, lull thee afleepy cr I know af no word beginning with that the good ge- the CQitfonants F^ G. nius may awaken H, thee. Horrco meamvg that the evil genius may not .u* Evero Evetou Evetou-eavfi Evi '- . WIS*** EvtiVO ?' A lance. Aflar. A comet. An acid fruity like a pear^ and pecu- liar to Taiti. A flute. The following words are pronounced with a long e, like the Greek >), »ti Ji'oodm figures re- . . - ,, . » prefenting fuhor- ('.v dlrnte genii^ and ......•,- t called yX\'\.2ir\t^ cr •:^^ %\\-^\?iC^accwding .: « '• . Y- fi^ they are of the ,...,; ; ' viafculine or femi- »; r.i?ie gender. Thefe •■■•>% ' figures are employ- , .. ed in relizious ce- remoniesy and the people of Taiti r. ji kind of infiru' ment for founding, made oftheheavi- eftfhells. lore A rat. loiroi . '. To fatigue. Iroto /■',': In. Ivcra ' Hot. J do not know any of their words beginning with the confonant L. M. Maa Eating. Maea Twin children. Maeo ' 'i Tofcratchone'sfelf ' to itch. Mai • • ■ More.islikewifefaid maine; ;/ is an adverb of repeti- tion Qitrc^ to go, etere-mai" or ete- re- maine. to go onct VOCABULARY. 47S Maglii Mala JVlalama Malou Mama Mamai* Manoa Manou Mao Matai Matai-malac Mata'i-aouerai Matao Matapo Matari Matie Mato Mate Mea Meia Metoua Mimi Moa Moea Mona Morcou Motoua N. Nate Nie Niouniou O. Oai once more, to go . and come again. . Cold. More, The moon. Confiderahle^ great. Light, not heavy. Sick. Good-day, your fer- vant •, exprejftcn of politenefs or friendjhip. A bird, fwift (/',•" . .: •. , . the country. .... , Touie *raoa tane Married woman. Toumany Taporai to beat, abufe. Taoiia-mai Phyfician. Taoumi Gorget of ceremony. Taoumta Covering of the head. Cord. Man. Taitai Taio Tamai Tane ,^,-A Tao-iiti^»^ .^■M, W Taoura Tata •iS' Tatoue 4-..« \i«^^^* aSl of genera- ^y^ %^;^' Hon. Tearta '' '' Tellow. ' '"' Tcouteou Servant, flave. \\ Toura Black. - — Femme bareeY White flowcrs, which they wear in their ears in- Jlead of orna- ments. A peg, or pin. Aferpent, Strong, malign 'nt, powerful. Child Exclamation to call the girls. They add Peio length- ened, orV\p feft- ' ly pronounced, like ^ the Spanifh], If the girl flaps her band on the out' ftde of the knee, it is a refufal, but if flje fays tntmoi, fhe thereby ex- preffes her confent. Blood. Hump-backed. Brother or ffter, by addingthe word which diftinguifh- es thefex. To weep. Lean. Action of fencing \ this thy do with . a piece of wood, armed with a point, made of harder materials than wood. They put themfelves in the fame pofture ns we do for fen- cing. Without. Toutai J/) VOCABULARY. 471 Toutai i.6\a Toutn Toupanoa Touroiitoto Toutoi-papa <*« 'i^.-ai Vereva ,./.?i iTf? ««-^^ the ftalU' ral evacuations. Excrements. To open a window or door. A decrepit old man. Light or fire of the great people \ niao-papa, light of the common peo- ple. ■nv'5.' ;r?^1 ViH M Flag which is car- ried lefore the king and the prin- cipal people. I know no words beginning with the letter^U, Xy r, Z. Names of Jfferent parts of the body. Auopo Boho Eouttou Mata Taria Eiaa , Eiou Lamolou Ourou Allelo Eniou Eniaou. > Oumi Papaourou Arapoa Taah Eou Afao ^ Erima Apourima 'The crown of the head. TheJkulU The face. The eyes. The ears. The jaw. The nvfe. The lips. The hairs. ' ; The tongue. "•' ^ Teeth. '' Tooth-picks i they them of -it>-' Eaiou Etoua Etapono Obou Tinai ' -•. Pito Toutaba Etoe \:. Aoua Eanai Etapoue Eoua ;' Eoure *"' Erao Eo^.v) , The nails. . The back. The fhoulders. The bowels. The belly. "' The navel. The glands of the groin. Buttocks. Thighs. Legs. The foot. Teflicles. . •• * The male parts. The female parts. The clitcris. Atai Aroua. '" Atorou Aheho Erima Aouno '*^ Ahitou Awarou Ahiva '^-\ Aourou Numerals. One. >. :i make wood. The beard. The chetks. The throat. Chin. TeatSf nipples. The heart. The hand. Two. Three. Four. Five. Six. Seven. Eight. Nine. Ten. -' ' They have no words to exprefs eleven, twelve, (sfc. They repeat Atai, Aroua, tfc. //// to twenty, which they call ataitao. Atairao-mala- Twenty, more one, atai . or twenty- one, ^c. an 5 1 Ataitao-mala- Thirty, i. e. 20 aourou more 10. Aroua-tao Forty. '^ Aroua-tao ma- la atorou Forty-three, i^c. Aroua-tao mala aourou Fifty,or^omore 10. I could not make Jotourou count The infide of the beyond his lafl number. ^ hand. I, 476 /• V O C A B U L A R Y. Nams of Plants. Eoui I'anis. Epoua Rhubarb. Amiami CctyJidcn^ Iraca Cbefnuts. Amoa Fern. Erca Ginger. Aoute Rofc. Etaro PurpL' arum. Eaaeo \ Sugar-cane. Eti Dragon's blood. Eaerc PFeeping-willotv^ or Etiare Creiiadilley or faf- ■■' Balylnnian ivil- , . ,, fion-Jlower. • — ■ lew. Etoutou Rivina. Eaia Pears. Maircraro Three leaved fu- Ea^e Virginian arum. . mach. Eatou ' Lys de S. JaqueSy Mati RaifiKS, • a fpecies of lily. ^'Oporo-maa Pepper. Eoe , Bamboo, Pouraou Cayenne-rofe. Eoai Indigo. . Toroire "^'^ Heliotropiumt or Eora Indian faffron. ' tournefol. EotonoiUou Figs. c> ' ' r They have a kind of article anfwering to our articles c/and to {de &? a). This is the word te. Thus they lay parouaite Aotourou v the clothes of or (belonging) to Aotourou ; maa-te-eri, the eating of kings. '■•-■ 4 -_. . Y» : /\A'iiiWk'. . THE END. ••^V ^*''^;* ERRATA. > . J ' * Page «, line hft, for main-yards, reaJ lower-yards— p. 9. 1. 3. Jor one quarter, readhy^m ib. 1. ih.for one quarter, reaJ by—ib. 1. 6.f$r one quarter, reaJhy.-.p, 17. 1. 16. for the nver of Plate, read Rio de la Plata-*-p. 53. 1, 15. /or top-mafts handed, and main-yards lowered, rM rr