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'''■;■, if ^ ., ,, ■ >, ■ ■ . ;| ♦At-/- "; , ,-.- ■■■ - ' . ■:?**.. . , ^jr . : . • .■v-V-.M . ■',j'»i.»' ■ '■ ■''■ ■■■■> ,' >^ m" ' \ mm ^mm M ,'*" ,'.^' THE NORTHERN TRAVELLER, AND NORTHERN TOUR: WITH THE ROUTES TO y- ...■■• THE SPRINGS, NIAGARA, AND QUEBEC, g Alio tB« CPMi MINES OF PBNNSyLYANUi,^5^'^;:U •I'^iftjr 'J ,.j-«l-'v ALIO, TEE . . a^i-ii-!^^'^3. WHi ,.„,.., TOUR ^f ' NEw^nctiinif. 'ty;::,'? '' "* >**■■"^'■ -• • -■ - ■ -. . .'*»«ti '..'{♦ 5n >. I, . h% in ■?««':!(ijfn:'.iff!>}r4-«4( liil f-!.fl- art Ir-i -ii'- 1 .J*!* itj4 -si •.•»;;i." Southern District of New- York, ss. BE IT REMEMBERED, That on the twenty-second day of AprlJ, A.D. 1830, in the fifty-fourth year of the Independence of the United Btates of America, J. &. J. Harper, of the said District, have deposited in this office the title of a Book, the right whereof they claim as proprie- tors, in tlie words following, to wit : " The Northern Traveller and Northern Tour, with the Routes to the Springs, Niagara, and Cluebec, and the Coal Mines of Pennsylvania; also, the Tour of New-England. Embellished with thirty-two Copper- plate Engravings. In conformity to the act of the Congress of the United States, entitled "An act for the encouragement of learning, by secuiiiig the copies of maps, charts, and books to the authors and proprietors of such copies, during the times therein mentioned." And also to the act, entitled "An art supplementary to an act, entitled an act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts, and hool^s to the authors and proprietors of such copies, during the times therein mentioned, and extending the benefits thereof to the arts of designing, engraving, and etching historical and other prints." FREDERICK I. BETTS, Clerk of the Southern District of New-York. PREFACE. Great exertions have been made to obtain ac- counts of all changes that have taken place on the various routes embraced within the range of the Northern Traveller since the publication of the last edition, as well as to add all necessary remarks on such subjects as had before escaped notice ; and it will be found that few pages have been passed without the insertion of something new, while many have been entirely written over again, and consid- erable additions have been made. The rapid sale which may now be calculated on, in connexion with other circumstances, have ena- bled the publishers, this season, to offer the work at a greatly reduced price, while additions have been made to its embellishments. The plan of the " Northern Traveller" was ori- ginally suggested by a reflection on the immense numbers of intelligent persons who annually visit the most interesting scenes in our Northern and Middle States ; and a knowledge of the great advantages which are derived from works of a corresponding description in Europe. No pains have been spared to render it useful, as well as in- teresting ; and as far as the necessary brevity would permit, the peculiar character of our citizens, and the nature of the country have been kept in view in the plan and scope of the work. , New-York, 1831. Proi (( ii tt City Fror u City Pron «( City City Sconr iVia<),\ Ballst Sarat( Lake Ticon Mouni P wp*^^ ■ ai^ GEJ^ KH AL INDhlX. Oity ot New- York Prom Now- York to Ninj(arii .... " " to the Springs . . 20— -55. " " to Canada . . . do. " ** to Connecticut River and / the Wliito Mountains S " to Boston . . 2'16— 258. City of Philadelphia .... From Philadelphia to New- York . " " to the Coal Mines City of Boston From Boston to the Springs " " to the White Mountains . " " to Maine City of Washington .... Citv of Baltimore .... I'agf. I2t» do. 21)7 402 4.32 414 318 :J29 33a 362 38:'. 389 VIKWS FROM NATIJRK. . {Jiicmg litle. ) 5/ Ouuj4 less Hall . Scenorvon the iNlohawk River Niagiua, from l)elow the Cataract . , .8* Ballston 14^ Saratoga . , 153 Lake George 166 Ticonderoga ....... 179 Mount Holyoke 276 The Notcli or WjJlev.Hoiise. (Whitp Mountains^ 3.«i4 "•■»''p)f Vlll (VKINKKAL lMi>J^X. MAPS. General Map of the Routes Hudson River, No. 1 " " No. 2 « " No.3 " " No. 4, Canals to Schenectady ( and Sandy Hill ) Erie Canal, to Herkimer .... (( (( it u u (( (( (( (( 9 20 24 31 48 56 62 68 72 109 to Salina to Rochester .... to Lockport, and Road to Niagara to Buffalo .... to Lyons, and Road by Geneva, &c. 116 to Syracuse, and Road by Auburn 121 From Fort Edward to Whitehall and Lake George 163 Lake George and Lake Champlain . . .176 Lake Champlain 190 St. John's to Montreal 194 Island of Montreal 206 St. Lawrence River, from Montreal to Quebec . 212 Connecticut River, from Hertford to the Mouth 266 11 I 4 TUB NORTHERX TRAVELLER THE CITY OF NEW- YORK* Hotels and Boarding Houses. The Adelphi and the Atlantic, opposite the Bowling-Green. Man- sion House, (Bunker,) 39 Broadway. City Hotel. National Hotel. Franklin House. American Ho- tel. Clinton Hotel. Washington Hotel, corner of Broadway and Reed-street. Mrs. Southard, Mrs. Mann, Mrs. Keese, &c. There are also the U. S. Hotel, Tontine, Bank, and N. Y. Coffee Houses, Tammany Hall, Pearl-st. House, N. Y. Hotel, &c. The stranger is advised to purchase a pocket map of the city, if he is to remain here a few days ; as without it he will often find himself at a loss. The Battery is a pleasant walk in warm weather ; and Castle Garden has a fine promenade. On sum- mer evenings the place is supplied with music, and often fireworks. Steamboats for Philadelphia. The boats of the Union and Citizen's Lines start from the wharf just north of the Battery, in Washington-street, at 6 A. M. and at noon. Boats for Long Branch, same place. 7%e Staten Island Steamboats go from the foot of Whitehall-street, at the lower end of the Battery. Broadway^ the most fashionable promenade in the city, is most crowded with passengers between 1 and 3 o'clock ; or, in hot weather, after dinner. Going up from the Battery, you pass the Bowling- CITY OF NEW-YOKK. \\ Oreen, the Atlantic Hotel, the Adelphi House, many genteel boarding houses, particularly the Mansion House ; and then Grace church, and Trinity church. The property of this church is very great, lying in large tracts of land now covered by tlie city streets. Opposite, opens Wall-street, which contains the first Presbyterian Church, most of the banks,* with the Branch of the U. S. Bank, together with numerous Insurance and Brokers^ Offices, The JVeW'Yo7'k Exchange. This building is of white marble from Westchester, and fronts Wall- street, between William and Pearl-streets. It has four marble columns in front, made of single shafts. The exchange room is large, and resorted to by mer- chants between 1 and 3 o'clock. The building con- tains the Post Office on the ground floor, the Com" mercial Reading Booms Qbove, with se\ern\ Insurance Offices, and the offices of Daily Papers.^ There is a telegraph on the top to communicate with Sandy Hook, to get early intelligence of vessels. On ar- riving, they show flags by which they may be desig- nated 30 miles from Staten Island. The view from the cupola embraces the whole city. Returning to Broadway, beyond Trinity church is the City Hotel; opposite, the JVational Hotel; (in Nas- sau-street, the City Library, admission to read free to all ;) and a little further Cedar and Courtlandt- * According to Goddard's statement there are 16 banks in the city of New- York, whicli have an ai;gregate capital of $18,130,000. 'J'hie in- cludes the branch or the U. States Bank, witli $^,500,000 capital. One of these having been lately established, paid no dividend, and another appropriated its profits to the Hudson and Delaware Canal. — The other fourteen made dividends amounting to $1,037,700, and averaging a little over 5| per cerit. There are eight Marine Insurance Companies in New- York, with an aggregate capital of $3,050,000. Six only paid dividends, amounting to $403,000, and averaging on their respective capitals, 15^ per cent. f According to Mr. Williams's IN ew- York Annual Register, there are in this city, 51 newspapers— of wliich 11 are daily, 10 pemi-weekly, 24 weekly, 5 appear once in two weeks, and 1 monthly, and th« number of sheets printed annually is 9,53(5,000. It is believed, that in other parts of the State of New- York, 33,000 reams of paper pass through the periodical press. In the state and city there are about Sll newspapers. l^.. CITY or NEW- YORK. 3 streetSf leading west to the docks on Hudson river, whence some of the Albany steamboats start. At the latter street is also the Jersey City Ferry — Is. The Franklin Home^ corner of Dey-st. and Broad- way. Fulton-street leads to Fulton Market, on the East river. (There is the lower Brooklyn ferry, — 4 cents ; at the next dock below, are the JVewport and Providence steamboats; and just above, tke steam^ boats for Flushing, JVorwalk, Stamford, Bridgeport, Stratford, New-London, and Norwich,) Scudder'^s American Museum, corner of Anne-street and Broadway, is the most extensive in the United States, and is liighly interesting. St. PauVs Church in Broadway is next above Ful- ton-street. A monument was raised in the portico of this church some years ago, to General Mont- gomery; and in 1818 the remains of that brave offi- cer were brought from Quebec and deposited here with military honours. Just beyond, is Pajfs Exhi- bition of Pictures, then the Park, opposite which is the Theatre, near which is Clinton Hall, and the Bible Society^s Depository* in the rear. Clinton Hall was erected principally for that noble institu- tion, the Mercantile Library Association, and contains the Library, Lecture Hall, &c. — 28,000 volumes were delivered the last year. In the same street {Nassau) is the American Tract Society^s building.f Park Place, on Broadway — where are Coleman'' s Literary iTC are kly, 24 * Opposite the Depository is a workshop, erected in 1827, where a steam engine is sii. ')n tiie first floor. It works eight power presses, on wiiich Bibles are printed: on the second story are twenty other presses. The power presses do double the work of the cornmon press; and all togeilier can print 4C0 reams of paper in a week. Seventy-one persons arc employed in this department. In the other building, the binding is done by 112 persons. A new workshop is to be erected, instead of the present, adjoining the Depository. The receipts of the A met ican Hible Society during the yewrending 1st May, 1830, were $'.U)n,2J)l 15; expenditures, $892,448 34. They had printed, in 1830, ],0a4,.5]3 Bibles and Testaments. t In the American Tract Society's house are ten common, and four power presBcs, driven by mules. riTV OF NKW Y(>UK. '.\\u\ llu' (»v Hull \H in 1Ih» I*;uK, \\\\\\ llin lirnintrv*!i ()(hn tlu»op|Mmit(»BiiltM)f (Miinn- luMH-sinuM. (TluMo wvw tlsl ;dl poor pfrsonN.) .\«lionunn il Mir lIu'.Yciii'- lor.V Hoihs i\\u\ [\w .hu'tuh luUhf,\\\\w\\t\\o fonnno- «lu>\«s i\\\y\ \\c\\ ;UttM\tl(Ml, Willi s«*p;u;ilo f'nhanrcrt lo5\ Hupnliod with wati^r, tlion^li not of vtM\v jjoiul ipialily. Tlio Uotmuhi is (Icvotod to i\w Marmi' t'onrl. ( A short *livstan»'0 oaslwanl, (^hanilxM'H-Htroct l(>a«lB to (^hathaiu-strrc^t : thon tnrniiij; to thr h'lY yon may prvMMHvl (o (iio (7i(j//i«i/»j 'VhviUn\ (Ihifhant-squdre, \\\c />\)»\rrv. tlu^ /)«)rcrrv Thratir, \»*. \o.| On \\\o kWUvv haiul, rhamluMs-sln'c't U^ads W('st- wai\l to iho llihlson rivrr ; ami at tlui foot of VVar- lYU-stroot, next brlow il, is ji rublic Marine Hath* * T\w t\>n.>>viO)i li!»l oC SUntmhthUf n\ Now York in puMlnluMl lit Wit- lUins'.* .\))lul.^l Ko^islrr. 'Vlw usiomktt t>lio\v uuotlU'itil Hlnli^nniln of Tho Nonh Ainoiic.H Is 1>2 lW\ ItMip. nmi UM'asmos -IIHl lonn; (ho Al- bany, *\M Hvl, :HH» tons; .Now riiiljulolttlili, l.V» loot, '2«il ions; Do Win rihiton. UU) tool, '^V^ \oi\» : Ohio, \M t\ ot.lhi U\m, ('onsUlnllon, V^> Ttvt. "JTO lon>; I'onstoHuiion, l\i',> tool, 'J7.i tons; Chiof .lnNit<'o M»i- shall, III tt^M. 3U tons; roMunoioo, KHl tVol.x'tW) I oiks ; Now-Jiondoii, 'U>S Toot, lS;i tons; Uouiy VVkloul, *10H Icoi, ITkI tons; liOjjIslrtlor, *U>4 toot. iTOions: tJonoiiil J,(oks»Mi, 114 loot, 171 tons; J;\inos Fniilio, 9\ t\vt, VU tons . Tonjrivss, *lvM toot, 1(>7 toi\s ; vSaiulusky, KW (ool,'i.^9 nms; Vioioiy. KW loot, \KHl t«»ns ; Olivoluanoli, Vii tool, :UK) tons; Ku-hnh>n loot. ;Cl tons; J;uuos Kont, \X\ toot, UU) tonn ; Sain- U>s:.«, iV* tVvt, l.V.1 tons ; l)ian»;o, S.*» toot, Vi-i tons ; F.xpoiiniont, 91 foot, VMs tons ; n.Uiiutoro, •100 lotit, 100 ioii« ; Tiatispoit, 74 fwt, »i loni, §,400 loub— '^O boau. MTV nV NICW YOIIK. 6 KrlnniiiiK** nml /roin(r on tip nnmdwny, you pnnn \\t\H\u\\l\\o\\ llnlcl. I hinillC Ht,l('(rrs Alrihinl f '<;//r/|r, Miid a I'uhUr Svhtinl^ on till* |)rniini|-l1iMi]' nl' wliidi ih mm Infant Srliaol.\ Alitsitniv Hii'l jmkI (lir .N'lt^i'-Ynrk llos/ntfil. nnMilittln 1)1) omi; \\u' ./Ww-Yinli JMnfirnni. Ih Hi tlin conmr of Aiillium hIutI. Ilroiuhvtiy ('oMtiiiiirFi nhiMii n iiiilo and a luilf fur- (III r on, prrlcclly hIi!ii(iIiI, mimI nr:irly '.ill built with hi'ick Iioiihcm; ImiI roiiliiniH no pnlilir (ibjociiH c*xr(»ilovvln«i8ili(!liNt(»f("liurc.h(!BliMhccltyof New- York, |)iililislit'(i ill IKtd. rriHliyit'iiiiii, ill ri)iiiii'.viiiii willi llii; (•citcrnl AHuniilily, 21 ; do. not- iiicuiiiii Mdii, ;t; Wct'oriiifd OiiK-li, 14; Tiik! RcroniK'il Oiilcii, 1; EplH- copal, 'il ; ISiiiitiNt, i:(; iln, iiol in coiiiicxion Willi llii! ntxivu, 4; Mettio- (lisi, 10; Assdriali'il Mrtlioili t, 'i; liKlrpciKtcni, IVI«>tlio(lii*t, 8; Roman ("iitlinlic, J; Fiicnd-*, 1; Liillu'inii, 3; .lew, :i; lii(lcp«;iuJ«til,, 2 ; Unl- vci'siiiisi, '2 ; I 'iiituiiiin, 'J ; Moniviiiii, I ; Mm iiicrri*, I ; Hwrdeiiborginn, I; (•t'lDiiiii Uctoiiiit'il, I,— 'I'liiiil, 115. or ilic iiliovc, si\ lire rxciiiHivt'iy lor (iiloiircd pi^rsoriH. The largi'lt cliurcli III iNuw-YorU Im Uiu Uuuiaii < iiUiolic Uallivdial— aita, U,(K)0 l'«et. JJ2 ■I^S^ ! t tf. 6 CITY or NEW- YORK. schools, most of whom pay a small sum, from S6 cents to $1 25 per quarter ; but none are excluded who are unable to pay. The schools are furnished with maps, globes, libraries, &c. ; and a uniform sys- tem, after the Lancasterian plan, is adopted in them all.* Two of them are for Africans. The Hiffh School receives scholars in higher branches. The Infant Schools are highly interesting institutions. The Sunday Schools deserve particular notice for their usefulnt^ss ; also the Mechanics' Society's School. The AthenoBum is a literary institution. The City Library is large, and there are others belonging to the Societies of Merchants' Clerks, Apprentices, &c. There are Circulating Libraries at several of the Bookstores in Broadway and elsewhere. The New-York University has been incorporated, * Common School Fund and Common Schools in the State of NeW' York.— The tbundatioii of the Cuiniiioii Scliool Fund for the State of New-York was laid in the year 1809, and the iirst disirtbution of the income took place in 1816. The productive capital uf this fund is invested in bonds and mort- gages, canal and bank stocks, and nowaniounta to $1,696,743, and pro- duces an income of $100,678. The State owns 880,000 acres of Innd, valued at $411,288, which lands are, by the Constitution of tiie State, pledfred for the support of common schools. This gives a grand total of $2,042,113, exclusive of the local school fund, and of a large capital denominated tlic^ "Literary Fund;" the income fr«)m which is annually paid towards the support of colleges and academics. In IrtiK), $239,713 was paid towards the support of common scliools — of this sum $100,000 was paid from the State Treasury. The school law requires that a sum shall be assessed on their taxable inhabitanta equal to the sum which is paid from the State Treasury to each town, and by a vote at llieir town meetings double the amount may be raised by tax. There were 56 counties, 742 cities, towns, and wards, every one of whici) made detailed official returns of tlieir schools to the Secretary of State, in 1827. The number of school districts in 1830, was 9062, the schools in which contained 497,.503 children, who were taught on an average eight months. In 1829, 480,825 children were taught in the common schools, at an expense to tlie public ot $511,888 for teachers' pay alone. The private schools in the State of New-York are also very numer- ous, and it is a low estimate to suppose the «um of $500,000 dollars is annually expended in the State for schools. In 169i, 276,583 votes were polled in the State of New- York. h.- CITY OP NEW- YORK. and possesses a fund of above one hundred thousand dollars. It is expected to be in operation in a few months. The libraries and cabinets of the Histori- cal Society, the Lyceum, &c., are to be connected with it. The Fire Engines are remarkable for their beauty and excellence, as the Fire Department is for its efficiency and usefulness. There are 49 engines, besides five Hook and Ladder companies. The City Hall contains the Common Counoil cham- ber, with portraits of Washington, Hamilton, Jay, and George Clinton ; court rooms, the police office, &c. &c. The top commands a fine view of the city, and access may be had on applying to the keeper. The Liverpool, London^ and Havre Packets are fine vessels, and some of them among the most elegantly furnished ships in the world. They lie at different docks in the East River ; and the Liverpool sail on the 1st, 8th, 16th, and 24th of every month, and re- turning, leave Liverpool on the same days. The Havre packets sail on the 1st, 10th, and 20th. The Results of the late Census.— We subjoin the population of thirteen States and two Territories, as determined by tlie late censu.«. The population of Ohio is not asct^rlaiaed with perfect exactness. The city of New- York contains 207,021. 1820. 18.30. Increase. Maine 298,335 399,383 101,048 Kew-Hanipshire 244,161 .269,533 2.5,3-2 Vermont 2:15,764 280,679 44,930 Wassaciiusetts 523,237. .: 610,014 86,727 Rhode-Island 83,059 97,226 14,167 Connecticut 27.5,248 297,726 22,478 New-York 1,372,812 1,934,396 562,584 New-Jersey 277,575 317,779 40,203 Delaware 72,749 76,7.39 3,990 Alabama 127,901 309,502 181,601 Louisiana 1.53,407 214,693 61,286 Ohio 581,434 937,000 355,566 Illinois 55,211 161,055 105,844 Arkansas Territory .... 14,276 30,380 16,104 Michigan Territory .... 8,896 31,698 ii2,802 The population of Pennsylvania, exclusive of Lyconiinp county, fronr which rt'tiirns have not been received, is l,332,7'i5; being an incrensQ of 306,76:2. The population of Lycoming county in 1826, was 13,517. !\\ _ I 8 CITY OP NEW-YORK. letter bags are kept at the bar of the Tontine Coffee House. — 6d. for every letter. Commerce of New-York. Jn 1830, there were 1510 foreign arrivals, of which 318 were ships. 1366 were American vessels — 72 British. 30,224 passen- gers arrived that year. Excursions.* Numerous pleasant excursions may be made from New- York in various directions. Manhattan Island affords several agreeable rides ; and also Long Island and the neighbouring parts of New-Jersey. Prince's Ltinncean Garden at Flushing. The ex- cursion to this beautiful garden and nursery is very pleasant. The steamboat leaves Fulton-street slip at hours particularized every day in the newspapers, and affoids a view of the most interesting parts of * Rtitea of Hackney Coaches. — By the let section of the law for regu- lating Hackney Carriages, it is ordained tliat tlie rates of prices to be taken by the owners or drivers of hackney carriages on the stands tfurein mentioned, viz. Trinity Church and Park, for the conveyance of pas- sengers, sliall be as follows, viz : $ Ct9i For any distance not exceeding one mile, for each person 00 25 For any distance over one mile, and within the Lamp and Watch District, for a single passenger 00 50 For two passengers, each 00 37 For each additional passenger 00 25 For attending a funeral in town 2 00 For one or more passengers, not exceeding four, around the first, or Sandy Hill tour 1 1 00 For one or more passengers, not exceeding four, around the sec- ond, or Love-lane tour 2 00 For one or more passengers, not exceeding four, around the third, or Lake's tour 2 50 For one or more passengers, not exceeding four, around the fourth, or Apthorp's tour 4 00 For one or more passengers, not exceeding four, to Harleem and back 4 00 For one or,j»ore passengers, not exceeding four, to King's Bridge and back, with tl>e privilege of keeping the carriage all day. . . 5 00 And whenever Hackney Carriages shall be hired or paid by time, or detained, the rates or prices shall be as follows: that is to say, For any lime not exceeding one hour CO 75 and in proportion for a irreaier or less time. The penally for demanding a higher fare than the preceding is Ten Dollars ; for refusing to be employed when disengagt^d, Ten Dollars ; and for not having a copy of the rates in each carriage, Fifteen Dollars. schooley's mountain. the East River, including the famous rapids at Hurl Gate. The village is small but pleasant. The gar- den of Mr. Prince will supply strangers of taste and science with rare seeds, plants, flowers, and trees, and has already done much to introduce use- ful and beautiful varieties into this country. It was first established about the middle of the last century. The four hot-houses contain about 20,000 plants m pots ; an(' the garden covers at least 30 acres. The species and varieties of trees and plants amount to about 5000, which is considered the most numerous collection in America. The proprietor exerts him- self to obtain all the native productions, as well as all interesting exotics, and for specimens forwarded to him he offers to make satisfactory returns from his own collection. He had in 1827, 127 varieties of apples, 202 of pears, cherries 76, plums 139, and peaches 84. The Navy Yard, at Brooklyn. See " East River,^^* Bath, Rockaway, and Gravesend, on Long Island, and Long Branch (Hotels by Renshaw and Sears) in New- Jersey, fine situations on the seacoast, are among the most attractive for bathing, &c. A steamboat leaves the north end of the Battery in the morning for Red Bank, 35 m., where carriages wait to take passengers to Long Branch, 5 m. This is a very fashionable resort. Schoohy^^ Mountain is a very fashionable resort * The American JVa»y.— The whole number of vessels in commig- sion in 1830, was 20, viz. 4 frigates of the first class, 11 sloops of war of the first class, and 5 schooners. The number in ordinary was 17, four of which were ships of the line, 9G's and 74'8. Ttie estimated cost of the thorough repair of the ships in ordinary, $1,210,140. The number of vessels on the stoclis was 12, of which five were sliips of the line, and the remainder frigates of the first-lass. They were under houses, and generally in a good state of preservation. The estimate for the support of the navy during the year 1831, in- cluding repairs of vessels in ordinary, improvements of navy yards, &e. in addition to the unexpended balance, is $2,649,397 29. Tiie amount of stores on hand at the respective navy yards, undei^ the survey of 1829, was $4,440,7JJ0 96. 10 ffTY or NflNV YrtniC. If \ I chiriuff tbo w«rm urnnon, pnrtiiMilarly for vinllrri fi*oin Nf»>v-Vork. *riu» Hiluiitioit in viMy |»J n^nstl, with (liin air ami ^ood arroin- intMlaliouM. At \\w oily of Nrw-York intoiy fravpllrrn v jt] (M>iuiuon(*o llifir ionrn in diilriiMii (liriMMionn; and ti jylanot* at Iho ^fMUMal Afifft of the Hontfs, on a pn;- Of^dinu' paifo, will anKiMl IhiMn in laylnij tlirir pltnifl. Thi» finion tnorninp; lino of nloandMMilN in immmmu- mondod \\n' Philadolplna. T\\v Iiohitfh Coal MinoH may lu> viMitiul by taking; ono oC (ho Ploani)>oalN to NoNV-llrunKwiok, and Ihoro a Htay^o ooaoh ; or a Hiatfo roaoh fn>n\.lornoy Cily. My lliat ronlo i\\v IravolUu' nmy pn»y iho dirool lino to Ithaoa, ^o. Tho lar^ror niorn- iti^f hoats ofVor tho luont rapid, and on tlw* wludo thn niOHl ajyn^oahlo nioaim of travolliny^ np tho IhidHon rivor. A vinit to tho ('atnkill Mountains, and an ox- rurnion to l.obanon Nprintts, via Hnd«»ni, an^ vory ploai^ant variations ivowx tho oonnuon ro\itin<^ of iho wuto to Albany. A yood tti»noral tour is ns follows — Now-York, (^rttskill, Alnany, tho SprinijH, Kako (»oor^:o, haok to tho S[>rinft\s, Sohoiiootady (or Johnstown), Niaji^ara, down l.ako Ontario, INIontival, Qu<»b(»o, Monlroal,np IiHko Chan\plaii\ to Ihirlinjfton, orovss tlio oomitry to Connooticut rivor and 1^>sI(Hi — hack to Ntnv-York by C\>nnootiout rivcM, orby Providonoo. I^iis may ho variod at ploaj«nro. Tho Sprinjrs may bo visitod aftor tho tour has boon acoomplishod ; ami this will bo ptvforird by many, to onjoy roposo aOor fatij>uo, and to soo tho oountry in tho oarlior and coolor part of Iho soason. Somo may chooso (Irst to travol oastward ; and thon thoy will tako ono of the sleamboats'whiohrun in tliat dirociion. Informa- tion concoruing most of tho land routos may bo obtainod at the coach olHces iu Courllaiidt-street, near Broadway. « Tiipj Monnm canal. TO TIM': COM. Ml^t^^J^'-^--^^^ A RtMKP rniicli \n)vn in a y nuicliincry. Tho old road through N(;wark niarHiu;8 niakus a towiutf path. TIh> inflimnl piano nnar Hloomfii'id i« fi2i frrt lonpf, and HunnonntH an (dcvation of 5'2 (vvi prrpondicidur, having: an inclination of one foot innv(Ty 12. VVIioii a boat iH drawn to the top of the piano, it is rocoived into an onipty lock, into which tho wat<;r in admittnd from abovo, and, by its own operation doses tho ^\\\v» behind it, tlnis floating it up to the upner level. The wheels of the machinery are provided ajfainst too rapid a motion, by a contrivance by which W(Mlj;es are rtpontancously dropped to stop them. !)over is a villajro which lies a little beyond; and at a short distance the canal rises to the summit l(>vcl, whicli is sup|)licd, for ten miles, from a pond. Not less than twenty niilos of the wbole route, the canal runs throuj»h narrow ravines, between hiffh ridjrcs of jrranite, which abound in valuable minerals, henMofore transported by land to a distance to be wrought. With the exception of the Mountain Ridge, the land through which the Morris Canal passes is fer- tile and populous. The whole rise and fall upon the routn amounts to 890 feet; and this is overcome 1« tllE MORlllS OANAt. V I by inclined planes, instead of locks, at as little ex* pense, it is declared, as the lockage of 250 feet would cost. Newark is one of the most beautiful places in the State. Tile canal winds thence to Paterson, where it passes along tlie rocks below the falls, througli expensive excavations. It crosses the Passaic above the Little Paterson falls, on an arched stone aqueduct, 60 feet span. Paterson is a large and flourishing manufacturing village, situated just below the great and picturesque falls of the Passaic, from which the water is sup* plied for turning the machinery of numerous large establishments. The place has grown up from al- most obscurity within 20 years, and latterly contains about 8000 inhabitants. The amount of capital in- vested was estimated in 1828 at above a million. In the town there are seventeen cotton factories, containing 30,000 spindles ; one flax or sail duck factory, with 1600 spindles ; one slitting and rolling mill and nail factory, working annually 896,000 pounds of iron, costing J 10,320, and making, yearly, 851,200 pounds of nails. The cotton factories con- sume, annually, 2,000,000 pounds of cotton, and the flax factory 600,000 pounds of flax. — There is one machine shop employing 150 hands, connected with whi(;h is an iron and brass foundry, working an* nually 600,000 pounds of iron, and 16*500 pounds of brass : the estimated yearly value of the iron and brass castings is §25,000. The scenery at the Falls is celebrated for its pic- turesque character. A perpendicular wall of solid rock rises from the side of a large basin formed by the river, into which the stream falls in foam, from the height of 70 feet. A. man repeatedly sprung from that height into the water in 1828, without in- jury. When the canal leaves the Passaic, it runs a few miles in the valley of Pompton river, then through HOOKS AND MAPS. 13 a rougher country to Mayville, where it rises 140 feet by two incHiied planes. Thence to Boonton Falls on Rockaway river, and up another, 80 feet. The river has a fine fall, well dammed, to supply the canal, and several mills. At Dover are iron works. At Rockaway is a plane rising 52 feet, ^f There is a direct road to Buffalo through Jtiiaca, The following list of books* and maps is given for those who may wish for more details concerning the northern states than we able to furnish in the present summary view. BOOKS, History of the New-York Canals. Smith's History of New-York. Picture of New-York and Stranger's Guide.' Dr. Dwight's Travels in the New-England States and New-York. Professor Silliman's Short Tour to Montreal and Quebec, in 18mo. Tanner's Stranger's Guide to Philadelphia. Van Rensselaer's Geological Survey of the Canal Koute. Hibernicus's letters on the New-York Canal. Spafford's Gazetteer of the State of New- York. Gazetteers of several States. Description Topograph ique de la Province du Bas Canada, avec des remarqiies sur la Haute Canada, €t sur les relations de deux provinces d'Amerique. Par Joseph Bouchette. Greenbank's Views of American Scenery. Pictures of Philadelphia, Boston, Quebec, &;c. V^illiams' N. Y. Annual Register.— Skinners' N. Y. State (I? MAPS. Bridge's, Hooker's, or other Maps of the City. Eddy's Map of the State of New-York. C 11 ( i I*-,-* »i( «■ H if . 14 NEW- YORK TO ALBANY. Vance's Map of the Western Part of the same. Goodrich's Map of the Hudson River. Daggett's Map of Connecticut. Bouchette's Maps of Canada. Tanner's Maps of different States, and of the United States. ROUTE FROM NEW- YORK TO ALBANY. The following steamboats ply between New- York and Albany. North America,* Ohio, New Phila- delphia, Albany, De Witt Clinton, Sandusky, Olive Branch, Bristol, Constitution, Constellation, and Chief Justice Marshall. There are also others to intermediate places* Most of the N. York and Albany boats, however, stop or touch at those places. These boats lie about the docks at Courtlandt, Cedar, and Barclay streets. There is some difference in the charges of the boats, but the accommodations travellers will find on board of them are generally good, except when they are too much crowded with passengers. Stran- gers will generally prefer the large ones, because they are furnished with an upper deck, called the prome- nade, which is sheltered from the sun by an awning, and affords a much more uninterrupted prospect, as well as better air. As two or three will go every day, and the traveller can choose better for himself, it is unnecessary to make ny further suggestions, except that ladies particularly will prefer the day boats, unless they are too much crowded. Captions. If luggage is sent by a porter, ask],him for his number, so tliat if he is negligent or dishonest, he may be reported at the police office. It is best to go to the steamboat ten or fifteen minutes before the time of departure, to avoid the crowd which always collects at the dock. * This boat, in 1828, made the shortest passage ever known between NtiW-York and Albany— viz. iu lU huuiij and 30 minutes. ■^ PALIS ADOES. 16 PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON RIVER. On leaving New- York, the traveller finds himself in the midst of a fine and varied scene. The bat- tery lies behind him, with Governor's Island and Castle Williams projecting beyond ;''still more dis- tant opens the passage called the Narrows, with Staten Island on the rig'ht, leading to Sandy Hook and the Atlantic Ocean, which is 22 miles from the city. On the west side of the Bay are Bedlow's and Gibbet Islands, with fortifications ; the point at the mouth of the Hudson is Powle's Hook, on which stands a small town in New- Jersey called Jersey City ; and the village of Hoboken is seen a mile or more up the river. The hills of Weehawken appear beyond : and we pass the crowded line of buildings in Washington-street, the JVorth Battery, the village of Greenwich, and the Episcopal Seminary. At Weehawken, under a ledge of rocks facing the river, and about the distance of three miles from the city, is the spot where General Alexander Hamilton fell in a duel with Col. Burr. A monument of white marble was erected to his memory on the place ; but it has been removed within a few years. This is the common duelling ground for combatants from the city, and many lives have been lost on this fatal spot. The Palisaaoes — a remarkable range of precipices of trap rock, which begins near this place, extends up the river on the west side 20 miles, to Tappan, and forms a singular, and in many places an impass- able boundary. In some places an old red sand- stone foundation is seen below ; but the great mass of the rocks presents the mural precipices of the trap formation, and rises from the height of 15 or 20 feet to 500 or 550. The eastern shore of the river opposite the Pali- sadoes is for many miles handsomely rounded with hills, and presents many scenes of cultivation, which contrast with the rude cliffs on the left. The soil is "T-'rjW!PI' 16 NEW-YORK TO ALBANY. i ' [ I M' t inferior; and the woodland encroaches too much upon the fields and orchards. The Lunatic Asylum about 7 miles from the city, is a large building of h^ tvn stone, occupying a com- manding situation. Harlcem Heights are a short distance further. They form an elevated ridge across Manhattan Island, on which a line of fortifications was thrown up during the Revolution, and the late war, quite over to the East river. Fort Lee, on the west side of the river, is situated on the brow of the Palisadoes, more than 300 feet above the river. Fort Washington was a fortress on the top of a high rounded hill, on the east side of the river, 12 miles from New- York. In October, 1776, when Gen. Washington had evacuated the city, and, subse- quently to the battle of White Plains (for which see just beyond), had drawn off his army to Fort Lee, Fort Washington was kept garrisoned, contrary to his advice, and was attacked in four divisions. The Hessians and Waldeckers, under General Knyphau- sen went up the hill on the north side, Gen. Matthews on the east, with the English light infantry and guards, marched against the entrenchments, which reached almost to the East river. Col. Sterling made a feint of crossing that river lower down, while I ord Percy, with a very strong corps was to act against the western flank. The Hessians suffered much from the riflemen in passing the swamp, but succeeded, with the other divisions, in driving the Americans into this fort, where they all surrendered, to the number of 2600 men, including militia. They had lost very few; but the British lost about 800. Fort Lee was immediately evacuated ; but the Brit- ish crossed so speedily at Dobbs's Ferry, that they took the artillery, military stores, baggage, and tents of the American army. BATTLE OP WHITE PLAINS. 17 l;J ' Yonkers is a little village on the eastern shore, 17 miles from New- York. This place was known in the Revolutionary war by the name of Philipsburgh. It is 10 miles southward of White Plains ; and near it are several hills of interest in history — Tetard's hill, Valentine's, the heiglits of Fordham, &c. Battle of White Plains. In October, 1776, soon after the American troops evacuated New- York, while General Washington had his army assembled at Kingsbridge, and the British were in possession of the island up as far as Harlajm, General Howe came up the East river, with an intention of sur- rounding the Americans. He left his German corps at New-Rochelle, and marched for the high grounds at White Plains, several miles east of the Hudson, to seize the interior road between the city and Con- necticut. Washington penetrated his design, and intrenched himself on the west side of the small river Bronx, with his right on Valentine's hill, and his left on White Plains. He had garrisons near Harlaem, at Kingsbridge, and Fort Washington. Skirmishes were kept up till the British approached very near ; when Washington assembled all his troops in a strong camp on the heights near the plains, with the Bronx in front and on the right flank, and a moun- tainous region in the rear. The right was more ac- cessible ; and General M'Dougal was sent to intrench himself on a mountain about a mile in front. On the morning of October 28th the British ad- vanced in two columns ; the right led by General Clinton, and the left by General Heister. The forme** took post on the Mamaroneck road, and the latter on the Bronx, — the armies being a mile distant. Col. Ralle with a Hessian regiment fell upon General M^Dougal in flank, while Leslie attacked him in front with a brigade. The militia soon fled, but the regu- lar troops resisted until overpowered. The British determined to wait ; and on the following morning* C2 18 KEW-YORK TO ALBANY. ! ! ; ; ! *i finding the American position much strengthenel, and a lieight in the rear occupied by the left wing, sent for more troops and erected batteries. Wash- ington, therefore, retired to North Castle, and soon after, securing the bridge over Croton and Peekskill, crossed tlie Hudson. Fort Independence, on the east side. 0^)posite, the Palisadoes are of still greater height. Dohb's Ferry, 10 miles. A Tarry town, 3h miles. This is the place where Major Andre was stopped, returning from his visit to Gen. Arnold, and on his way to the British lines. The place was then neutral ground, as the Ame- ricans and English lay encamped above and below. The tree was recently standing under which his captors searched him, and the bank near by con- cealed them from his view as he approached them. It was a large tulip tree, 26 feet round and 111 feet high. It was struck by lightning in 1801. Tappan Bay is a wide expansion of the river, ex- tending for several miles above and below Tappan. This village is concealed from view, being situated a little inland, on the western shore, in Rockland county. The steamboat, however, will pass near Slote Landing. The opposite shore is distant, and presents but little that is worthy of attention. JVyac. The appearance of the shore here is pe- culiar. Nyac Landing is at the foot of a steep and lofty bank, divided with much regularity into fields. There are quarries of sand-stone in this vicinity, "Nvhich however afford an inferior article, that can- not compete in the New-York market with the free- stone of New-Jersey, and Middletown, Conn. Tappan, on the west side. Andre was executed about a mile west of the river in tliis town. Haverstraw Bay, which opens above Tappan Bay, has still more the appearance of a considerable lake. It is four miles in width, and extends from Verdrie- tege's Point to Verplanck's and Stony Points.^ FEEKSRILl. 19 As' the stranger proceeds, he finds himself at a loss to determine what is the course of the Hudson above. The mountainous range of the Highlands is seen northward, but the river contracts itself so much, and takes so sudden a turn, that it is lost to the eye from a distance. The State Prison, at Singsing, is in a quadrangle of nearly 44 feet by 480. It has a double stack of cells built back to back, 4 tiers high, and 200 on each tier ; in all 800. 9 feet distant is the outer wall, which supports a gallery running all round ; size of the cells, 3 feet G inches by 7 feet, and 2 feet door-way. The whole work was done by convicts, and a great part is of hewn stone. The system is the best — that of the Auburn prison. The Singsing prison is in plain view from the steamboats, being only a few feet from the shore. The excellence of this sj^stem of prison discipline, which is the invention of Mr. Lynds, the superin- tendent (formerly superintendent at Auburn), con- sists in its cutting off all intercourse among the pris- oners. They are separately lodged ; and though tliey work together they cannot converse, even by signs, and therefore can concert nothing, and cannot contaminate each other. Slaughter's Landing is a romantic spot on the west- ern shore. Peekskill, on the eastern shore, has two landings, Peekskill and Cortlandt. This town is in Cort- landt county, which borders Haverstraw Bay on that side. There is the ancient Cortlandt manor, or patent, which lies in two tracts, and was granted to Stephanus Van Cortlandt in 1697. The residence of Gen. Van Cortlandt is one of the fine and con- spicuous residences discoverable at a moderate dis- tance from the water. Peekskill village stands just below the Highlands, at the mouth of a stream of the same name. Continental Village is still marked by its ruins, at a 20 NEW- YORK TO ALBANY. $pot which the steamboat does not approach. In October, 1777, it was destroyed by the British while passing up the river. The barracks, which were able to contain 2000 men, were burnt. Teller^ s Point extends into Haverstraw Bay. Sev- eral fine situations, it will be seen, are occupied by handsome private mansions. Sleepy Hollow, rendered interesting by Mr, Irving, is a little above Singsing. The Entrance o( the Highlands is a short distance beyond this place, and 40 miles from New- York. The Highlands extend 16 miles. This is a region no less remarkable for the important military events of which it has been the theatre, than for the gran- deur and nobleness of its natural scenery. Stony Point, This little rough promontory on the left, nearly a mile below the entrance of the High-, lands, was a fortified position during the American war. The British took it from Gen. Wayne in 1778, but lost it again the same year. There is a light- house on the top. Verplanck's Point, on the opposite side, was also the site of a fort ; but is now ornamented with a handsome private mansion, and the rocks near the landing are tastefully variegated with a lawn, an arbour, and many fine trees. Here are the ruins of Fort Fayette. FORT MONTGOMERY AND FORT CLINTON. 5 miles. These forts were taken by Sir Henry Clinton, on the 6th of October, 1777. His object was to co- operate with Gen. Burgoyne, at that time closely watched by Gen. Gates near Saratoga, and to afford him an opportunity to force his way to Hudson River, by effecting a diversion in his favour. For this pur- pose Sir H. Clinton had left New- York with 3 or 4,000 troops, embarked in the fleet, and landed at "-;¥" -•■tr-lfUr LCh. Ill 5h while ;h were y> Sev- ipied by . Irving, iistanee 4^-York, I region T events e gran^ ^ on the 9 High-. nericai> in 1778, 1 light- as also with a ear the wn, an uins of ^TON, ton, on to 00- ilosely > afford River, is pur- th 3 or ded at I Ji^orth f II • X ji.,.K.r Kn.irsr. WEST POINT. 21 Verplaiick's Point. The next morning a detachment was sent to Stony Point, and marched round in the rear of these forts, then under the command of Gen. Putnam, and garrisoned by 1000 continental troops, part of whom were unfit for duty, and a small number of militia. Gen. Putnam, apprized of the landing made at Verplanck's Point, and supposing the object of the expedition to be Fort Independence, had crossed the river and made preparations to oppose them. He did not discover their real intentions until he heard the firing at forts Montgomery and Clinton, which are near each other, and were attacked at the same moment. The fighting began between four and five o'clock in the afternoon, and lasted till dark, when the Americans having lost about 250 men, the forts were surrendered ; but all the troops who were able, about 450, effected their escape, with the governor and his brother Gen. James Clinton. The British, proceeding to West Point, removed the chain which had been stretched across the river to prevent the passage of their ships ; and a part of the fleet, under Sir James Wallace, went up to Kingston, with Gen. Vaughan and his troops. Although they found the village defenceless, the ofllcers ordered it to be burned on the 13th of October. The British proceeded no further than that place ; for the news of Burgoyne's surrender being received a few days afterward, the fleet returned to New- York. As the steamboat proceeds, several points are observed projecting into the river some distance above ; and West Point makes its appearance on the left hand, with the ruins of Fort PtUnarrii elevated on a commanding eminence, a little beyond, 598 feet above the water's level. The view it commands over this wild and mountainous neighbourhood, as well as its connexion with our history, render it worthy of a visit. There are still three or four sub- terraneous rooms to be seen ; and the place is so often //,;,./■ Eu.i'-sy 22 NEW-YORK TO ALnANY. !■ visited that the path is plain, and leads to most of the principal objects within it. This fortress com- manded at once the river above and below West Point, and the passage into a defile which opens through the mountains westward. That defile was farther defended by numerous little batteries and re- doubts on the peaks around it. The summits near Fort Putnam (then Independence) were also occu- pied, but were not fit for extensive works, although more elevated. During the war a fort stood on the opposite side of the river, called Fort Constitution. Kosciusko's Monument is erected at West Point ; and the spot is still shown where he cultivated his little garden. WEST POINT. This was a military position of great consequence in the war. A battery was erected on the extremity of the point just over the river, to command the channel, while a strong iron chain was stretched across from the shore below to the opposite side. On the east side of the river is Colr^ Spring; behind it is the West Point Foundry^ owned by Major Kim- berly of New- York. It is the best in the United States, and worthy of attention. The Military Academy of the United States is located at West Point ; and a more delightful situation for such an institution could hardly have been selected. It is designed for the irstruction of young men destined for the army ; and,, secondarily, for maintaining the military science of the country. The Academy was established in 1802, by Gen. Williams, and extends only to the instruction of cadets. The number of pupils is confined to 250 ; and in choosing from the applicants, the sons of revolutionary officers are allowed the first claim, and those children of officers of the last war whose ACADEMY AT WEST I'OINT. 23 fathers arc dead, the next. There are about 30 pro- fessors, instructers, and assistants. Some of the cadets afford assistance in instructing, for which tliey receive additional pay. The hiw prohibits admission under fourteen years of age. The level on which the buildings of the institu- tion are erected is 188 feet above the river, though it has the appearance of having once formed a part of its bed. The annual expense of the institution to the United States is $115,000. The sum paid for tlie education of a cadet is about $330 per annum. The library consists of a large and valuable collec- tion of books, on the various branches of military science, which have been obtained with great assi- duity and no small expense from Europe. The buildings belonging to the institution are five ; all large, and built of stone. There are, besides, six brick buildings for the officers and professors ; near the water, some old military storehouges,which contain arms, &c. used in the revolution. The bar- racks were lately burnt. There is a large and conspicuous hotel lately erected for the accommodation of visiters. The course of study is completed in four 5\iars, each being devoted to a class; and includes the French language, drawing, natural and experimental philosophy, chymistry and mineralogy, geography, history, ethics, and national law, mathematics in the highest branches, and lastly, artillery and engineering. Study concludes each day at 4 P. M. and is suc- ceeded by the parade, which lasts till sunset. One of the particular spots worthy of attention is Col. Beverly Robinson's mansion on the east side of the river, which was made the head-quarters of the several officers who were at different periods invested with the command of this important part of the country. In September, 1780, while the British held posses- 24 NEW-YOllK TO ALBANY. •I \ 1 li (^ U ' sion of Hudson River up to the borders of the High- lands, and General Arnold was in command here, a correspondence was carried on by him with the British officers, on the subject of surrendering his post into their hands. To bring their designs to a conclusion, it was determined that a meeting should be held. Andre was sent under cover of the night from the sloop of war Vulture, which was then lying in Haver- straw Bay, to a place which had been appointed for the conference. A man by the name of Smith had been sent on board by Ar-iold, under the pretence of negotiating about an honourable treaty with Great Britain, and he accompanied Andre to the foot of a mountain cplled the Long Clove, on the west side of the liver. Here they found Gen. Arnold in a dark grove of evergreen trees, according to appointment. Daylight put it out of the power of Major Andre to pass in safety the posts at Verplanck's and Stony Points. He was therefore obliged to retire to Smith's house, and change his dress for a disguise. General Arnold had furnished him with a pass under the name of John Anderson ; and on the fol- lowing evening he set out by laiid, accompanied by Smith as a guide. They rode that night to McKoy's, after going eight or nine miles ; and the next he spent at Pine's Bridge, over Croton River. Here he parted with Smith, and proceeded alone six miles, when, as he had passed the American lines, and was approaching those of the British, he was discovered by three men, who were concealed from him be- hind a bank ; and one of them, suddenly stepping from under a tree by the road side, seized his horse by the bridle. They found in his boots a descrip- tion of the works at West Point, with returns of all the forces of the garrison, in the handwriting of Ar- nold. This happened on the 23d of September. A mes- senger was immediately sent to General Washing- T^v-TT^rT' — ■ V^-^' -'i»'T!E — 7'"r-Y^''-/TT|Tp"w^T-";,r'Hw-»T' * •». ■%..■ \'-- ' i I ... > ■ . Jl^ t ii ^t^ ^y^ — ' .;»^^ P IT T X A. M CO. \50 WestPotflt Butter miXk't^^ ilt^ ; ..- f*M<>ntQofy 'r-i ■• ifi: ;*■; V. i. '^^■''*j0ihsz\ Bare M^xfitain '^.^ V"^'^' / f^a^^^jl WEST ^y Dunderberg' ilQ CHESTER CO. \. .- Art'i/A «ir.'(?'. S.(^> .^ '■' II O C ff L. A. X n CO. fiu^frn- m: CO. 9C />V, i polopell's island. 26 ton; and at Andre's request Lieutenant Colonel Jamieson sent to Arnold to inform him that Ander- son was taken. The latter messenger arrived first ; and Arnold, as soon as he learned the truth, rushed down a very steep hank, sprang into his boat, and ordered the rowers to take him on board the Vulture. On the 29th of September a board of officers was appointed for the trial of Major Andre, and sen- tenced him to suffer death as a spy. Objections were mi de to this sentence, on the ground that An- dre had been introduced into the American camp under the passport of one of our officers ; but the del^v^ry of Arnold being made the condition of his '^^ : , and that being refused by the British, he was kept in prison until the 2d day of October, when he was hung at the town of Tappan, where his body was afterward interred. A few years since the British government sent to this country to obtain his remains, which were re- moved to England, and placed in the family vault of the then prince-regent. A cypress-tree which grew over his grave was likewise removed to the garden of the late king. In 1827, the corporation of New- York erected a monument over the grave of Paulding, one of his captors. At leavi ; West Point, the traveller will observe several rt:>'' kubly high mountains on both sides of the river, u '^^ ich he is referred to the map. The distant sumni f of Catskill Mountains is distinguish- able. Putnam's Rock was rolled from the top of Butter Hill, .June, 1778, by a party of soldiers di- rected by General Putnam. Po%^c//'s/s/anci (commonly called Polypus Island) lies in the river, at the distance of seven miles from West Point, off agalns. the prominent mountain called . eakneck Hill. It is very rocky, and not suscepu^V' of CI Itivation. It is remarkable as' the point at vviiicii the tides correspond with thode at D W'.'A' 28 NEW-YORK TO ALBANV. New- York city. It is high water and low water here and there at the same time. JVewburgh. — This is a town of considerable size, six miles beyond the Highlands, with some hand- some buildings. Here begins the Stage Road lead- ing from the river to Ithaca, at the head of Cayuga Lake, and communicating by a steamboat with the great western turnpike at Cayuga Bridge. Newburgh is advantageously situated for the eye of one approaching it, as it stands on the declivity of a hill which slopes handsomely to the shore* Half a mile south of the village is seen the old stone house in which ""rP'^eral Washington had his head-quarters when tho orated " Newburgh Let- ters" came out. A coach runs daily to Goshen, near which are the Chemung Springs. Fishkill Mountain. — The summits called Old and New Beacons, which rise opposite Newburgh, at a distance of four miles, command a fine view ovet the surrounding countrv and the river, which ap- pears, interrupted by the Highlands, like a number of lakes. Fort Putnam is in sight, and it is said that land may be seen in seven different states* Many villages, as well as the river, are included in the view. Matteawan Factory. — It stands near the river and directly opposite Newburgh, on Wappinger's Creeki It was commenced in 1814, belongs to Messrs. Schenk, and gives employment to about 300 per- sons, with fifty power-looms, &c. 1000 or 1500 yards of cotton are manufactured on an average from the wool every day, principally stripes and ginghams. There is an extensive machine-shop connected with it. Fishkill is a pleasant village, situated on the low land near the feet of the fine eminences of the east- ern Highlands, opposite Newburgh. The principal village is about five miles distant from the shore, 4 POUGHKEErSIB. 27 which presents an agfreeable diversity of surface, and affords pleasant situations for a number of hand- some houses near the landings, which enjoy com- manding views upon the romantic neighbourhood. Breakneck Hill, or the Old Beacon, and the Grand Sachem, or New Beacon, about half a mile south of it, form the principal eminences on that side, and confront those on the other side — Butter Hill and the Crow's Nest. Hamburgh is a small village a short distance above Fishkil!, recently built at the mouth of Wap- pinger's Creek. This stream runs through nearly the whole county of Dutchess, which is remarkable for its high agricultural character and wealth. This county extends along the river for thirty-eight miles, and adjoins the county of Litchfield in Con- necticut. Barnegat, a landing-place a little above Ham- burgh, is within the town of Poughkeepsie. Lime- stone is found in abundance in t^ is vicinity, and burned in kilns. Quicklime is transported from Barnegat in considerable quantities. On the opposite side of the Hudson is Milton, A few miles inland, on that side, is the course of the Walkill River, which, after a northerly course through the county of Orange, and the greater part of Ulster, falls into the Rondout and the Hudson at Kingston, affording for a short distance its channel to the Delaware and Hudson Canal. Poughkeepsie is a place of considerable impor- tance. The landing has a singular situation. There are three or four rough and rocky projections on the shore, which break up the streets of the vil- lage, and are partly occupied with houses and gar- dens. There are five landings in this town. The village is nearly a mile from the shore. For several miles beyond, the shores are of a reg- ular elevation, but are cut through by several 8treams» 28 NEVV-TORK TO ALBAN7. 1 which afford a little variety, as wharves are usually constructed at their mouths, where a sloop or two receive their cargoes of timber or produce for New- York. Crom Elbow is a sudden bend in the river, four miles above Poughkeepsie. Above this place the water is seldom brackish. Sometimes it is quite fresh for miles below. Hyde Park (east side) lies a little above ; then we pass PelhanUi on the west, and Staatshurghi on the east. Kingston. — The Delaware and Hudson CanaU which was commenced in July, 1825, and com- pleted, with the works in connexion with it, near the close of 1829, extends from a point on the Rondout, about four miles from the junction of the Walkill with the Hudson, to the coal mines on the Lackawana Creek, in Pennsylvania. The whole route is now complete. The chief part of it, sixty- five miles, passes through a valley two or three miles wide, in a south-westerly direction, to the Delaware. The country at the opening of the canal is re- markably irregular and wild. On rising from the level of the river by locks into the basin, a wild as- semblage of rocks, steep hills, and forest-trees is suddenly presented to the view, with a few build- ings ; and after passing through a deep cut, where the work is very neat, and under a high bridge, the boat enters the river, whose 6,:^ooth and grassy shore offers a very convenient towing-path. The canal is thirty-six feet in breadth at the sur- face, and four feet deep. The locks are nine feet wide, seventy-two feet in length between the gates, from eight to eleven feet lift, and built of stone. The country has one peculiar feature on the route from the Hudson to the Delaware, — it seems as if it might have afforded a channel to Jhc Dela- \lv DELAWARE AND HUDSON CANAL. 29 then sur- feet 1 the It of the ;ems ^ela» ware before its waters forced for themselves a new passage through the Blue Ridge. The elevation of this land is eighty feet above the present level of that river. High Falls,— kt the High Falls on the Rondout River, the canal passes over a hewn-stone aqueduct of two arches, just above which the cascade is seen, fifty feet high. The falls and the aqueduct both present a fine and striking appearance; the effect of which is still farther increased by the pas- iage of the Five LockSf by which the ascent is sur^ mounted. The Summit Level is about midway between the Hudson and Delaware, at a place formerly called Rome, and now Wurtzborough. The JVeversink River is crossed on an aqueduct, and the canal then pursues the course of that river, CarpenUr''s Point, on the Delaware, is the place where the canal meets that river, on the line of New- Jersey ; and it then proceeds north-westerly, along its course. The excavations of rocks along the bank of the Delaware, required for the passage of the canal, are in many places on a vast scale ; and the variety of natural scenery and artificial constructions presented to the traveller is highly agreeable and picturesque. A wall of stone rising from the river's bank, varying in height from ten to twenty and thirty feet, supports the canal and tow-path, in many places where the rocks have been blasted out with great expense to afford it a passage. Butler's Falls. — At this place the mountains rise to the height of several hundred feet, and a rock, which appeared to present a natural insurmountable obstacle, has been cut away with immense labour just over the tumultuous stream, so that boats pass along the smooth surface of the canal without diffi-* culty or exposure, within a short distance of an im- |)etqoi}3 current, P2 1 1 I \ \ r f- so NEW-YOKK TO ALBANY. The Dam and Aqueduct over the Delaware. — The canal crosses the Delaware opposite the mouth of the Lackawaxen River, on a dam four feet in height ; after which it enters the valley of that stream. The Lackawaxen River. — Along the bank of this river the canal passes for a distance of about 20 miles, supported for a great part of the way on a wall of stone. The wildness of the country on either aide will offer continually striking objects to the tra- veller. Honesdale. — This village stands at the forks of the Dyberry, at the spot where the railway meets the canal at its termination. Only a few buildings have as yet been erected at this place. The Railway^ by which the coal is brought from the mines, is provided with steam engiites to move the carts. (We return to Hudson River.) Rhinebecky (east,) 17 miles above Poughkeepsie. There is much manufacturing carried on in this township ; and a little in the interior is some very good land at Rhinebeck Flats. Rhinebeck derives its name from the river Rhine in Germany, (from which country it received its inhabitants,) and Beek- man, an individual of the number. Gypsum has been used with much effect on the land. Saugerties. — Here is a large manufacturing place established by Henry Barclay, Esq. of New- York. By a large stone dam on Esopu^ Creek he obtains a supply of water at a fall of nearly 50 feet, which may be twice used on great wheels. The canal or sluice conducts it about two hundred yards through rocks 65 feet high. Here is a mill for paper on the latest English mode, making it in a continued sheet. The iron rolling and puddling mill is 169 feet long, rolls 200 tons a week, and can do double that work. There is an hotel in an elevated situation ; and the traveller will find great attractions there in the near and distant scenery. The scenery of the western bank of the Hudson is varied and beautiful here for several miles. :i. .-i-OiSS^-^-i^.i;)- .4"-^ .,* .■.>i^'*»i, •.•;.• '•* ••; 1 .f; V. -- -^< I ' 7 '**.'.■ 'r** s ' /■■ ^••V'; 'r--:«."-» '*''',* ,■■* ' -1 ■•'••. ■ •_- ■ /'if-'' • •A^' ^ ^'■\" ■ ,* ■ '^^^' ■"y.''^^hm^^f-^^pff% ^•rt?. f l-l If ■•'f [ ''-'■ ^'y 11 U T C li E S* S CO. Rhineljock. j?;.,.7c.f I TIIB CATSKILL MOUNT AIXP. 31 I' 1 x^ y.i tdsou :.. ^ CO. Red Hook, (east.) There are two landings in this town ; and several fine seats of the opulent families of the Livingstons will be observed at intervals on that shore. That of the late Chancellor Livingston is 91 feet by 104. The ancient Manor or lordship of the Livingstons formerly included Clermont, (14,000 acres,) the Manor, f 146,000,) and East Camp, or Palatine, (6000.) This last was settled by exiles from the Palatinate, in the reign of Queen Anne. THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. :: As the traveller proceeds he observes the distant ridge of the Catskill Mountains more distinctly, which limit the view north and westerly for many miles, and form a grand feature in the scene. They nowhere approach nearer to the river than 8 miles, and in some places retire 15 and even 20. An excursion to the summit of these mountains is performed by great numbers of travellers ; and in- deed has become so favourite an enterprise, that it may very properly be ranged among the principal objects m the great tour which we are just com- mencing. The visit may be accomplished in one day, though two or three may be agreeably spent in examining, at leisure, the grand and beautiful scenery of that romantic neighbourhood. There is a large and commodious house of entertainment erected at the Pine Orchard, one of the peaks of the moun- tain, about 3000 feet above the river. It is visible from the steamboat ; and the ascent to it is per- formed without fatigue, in private carriages or a stage coach, which goes and returns regularly twice a day. (There is a spring of carburetted hydrogen in Catskill Creek.) The place to land for this excursion is Catskill, where begins a turnpike road to Ithaca,* Taking ♦ The contemplated railroad from Iiliaca to Catskill, N. Y. is pro- poBed to be commenced and continued through a corner of dcohuri« Boolttr 32 NEW-YORK TO ALBAlfT, the stage coach here, for $1 you proceed towards the Pine Orchard, passing a good inn at the distance of J miles (G'lO feet above the river), and then begin- ning the ascent, which is surmounted by a winding road that affords much wild scenery and many a gUmpse at the surrounding country.* Five miles of f uch travelling brings the visiter to The Pine Ch-chard. This is a small plain, 8214 feet above the river, scattered with forest trees, and furnished with an elegant house of great size, built for the accommodation of visiters, and heretofore excellently kept. The Hudson is seen winding from afar through its verdant valley, its margin adorned with villages, and its surface enlivened with vessels of various descriptions. Immediately below is seen a region of uncultivated mountains, which is strikingly contrasted with the charming aspect of fertility that reigns beyond, and presents all the variety of hill and vale, town, hamlet, and cottage. The Pine Orchard is the resort of so much com-i pany during the pleasant seasons of the year, that the attractions of its scenery are redoubled by the presence of agreeable and refined society. Indi- viduals of taste and leisure, and still more parties of travellers, will thus often enjoy a gratification which is rarely to be found in a place naturally so wild and difficult of access. llie Round Top is a summit of greater elevation \', eounty, lo tlie head waters of tlio Dclawars ; thence to the SuBquehan- nah; thence either direct to Ithnca or down the Susquehannali nearly to the Pennsylvania line ; and thence to interssittlie Ithaca and Owego railway, at the latter place. The dutanc« is IGO miles, and the highnt estimated expense 91|300,()00. * The forests of this mountainous refrion furnish immense qnantiiies of the bark used in tanning leather; and not less than 23 tanneries are in operation in tiiis county, which supply about fout-hfths of the leather annually inspected in the city of New- York. (Edwards' large tannery is in the town of Hunter.) Water power is advantageously introduced to aid in some parts of the process ; and the cu.stom has been adopted of soaking the bark hi heated water. More than ]55,UU0 hides were tjM)Md in Greene County in 1836, valued ett more than 9400,000. CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 33 towards the south, from which the view is more ex- tensive. It is 3,718 feL't above the ocean. On the west side of tiie river is seen part of the counties of Albany, Greerus Ulster, and Oranpje; and on the east, part of Putnam county, and all of Dutehess, Columbia, and Rensselaer. The distant hijj:h land in tlie east belongs partly to Taughkannuc and Saddle Mountains, in Massachusetts, and per- liaps partly to the Green Mountains in Vermont. Lower down is discovc^red a range of hills in the western counties of Connecticut. The eye em- braces a tract of country about 100 miles in length, and 50 in breadth; and a large part of it is supposed, by geologists, to have formed the bed of a great lake in some long past age, when the Hudson was thrown back by the barrier presented at the Highlands, be- fore the present chasm had been cut for its passage. The Cascctdes. There is a singular and highly ro*^antic scene which has been intentionally reserved f' '\e last. A path leads through the woods to the c. _^des, passing near two small lakes, from which the supply of water is derived. Carriages may generally be procured to take visiters to the spot. The stream flows through the woods to where the level terminates, very abruptly, at a high and shelv- ing precipice, descending into a tremendous gorge between ridges of gloomy mountains. The first fall is 175 feet, and the second 80 : both perpendicular, without a single protruding rock to break the snow- white sheet. A building is erected, where refreshments may be obtained ; and on the right is a steep path by which even ladies may descend in safety to the foot of the falls. There is a cavern under the first cataract, where the shelving rock shelters the stranger from the spray, and throws a dark shade around him, which sets off, in the most beautiful manner, the wild scenery below. The cavern is formed by the wear- 1 » » ■"IT'',""'" 84 NEW- YORK TO .M.nA.7fY. I I inpf nwny of tlio sandstone rorks, wliilo the stratum of Kmy^^''^<''^t^ renin ins nnlin|)aire(l. At a little distance the strenni takes its seeond leap into a dark ahyss ; and from a rock at tliat phir(\ it is seen rushinp; tuninhiionsly ah)n KOI i'K TO MA(;.\I{A. 47 Icsiern jl)any, idsop. ;annl. I some re \ov It i^ r.MiAl boats :it Albniiy, with j>reat (luantities ol flour, aii(l many iiiiHioM ivvA of plank anu boards. Thou- ^^andsol tons of niorcbandise, also, ^o nortb and west. The size of" this bas^in may afford tbc stranu^er some idt;a of tbc extent of the btisim^ss created by the canals. Ib'ie the traveller j^ets the first view of ohjocts with which ho is a'terward to become familiar ; and if be is travellintj: this way for the first time in a few yeara, hv. must look with surprise upon the crowd of uoats, and the bustle of industiy. lie may look upon tbem also with additional interest; for they will be Iwireaf- ler })resenled to bis view in many varying forms, thoui^b 'lill preserving: the characteristic aspect and impression, which distinguish the whole line of inter- nal improvements to its termination. Tolls on both canaiti in lH-29, about 5J5790,000. The route to Scbenectacly, by the canal, although so much lonn:er than the stage road, and so much ob- structed by frequent locks, is highly worthy of the traveller's attention, either in going or in returning ; for it wHl afford him an opportunity of seeing the junc- tion of tlij. two canals, the Cohoes Falls on the Mo- hawk, the locks by which the rise of land is artificially surmounted, the aoueducts which bear the canal twice across the river, the Wat lloix Rapid, and the gap throiiffb which the canal passes; the scenery at Alex- ander's Bridge, &c. JSPiskei^mia^ the original settlement of the Shakers, is about 4} miles from Albany. ROUTE FROM ALBANY TO NIAGARA. The boats start from the first lock, which is at the north end of Albany ; so that a carriage will be neces- sary for the traveller and his luggage. Description of a Canal Packet Boat. The length is HO or 70 feet, a large part of which is devoted to the dining room, where two rows of tables are set. Af nijrht, mat*rp««es are spread on the seats each side. V Tiijwii ■-'■ym^ — !i 4 a llOliTE Tl) ^lAGAUA. and in another row above them on cots suspended liom (he roof. The ladies are accommodated with births in the cabin, which is usually carpeted, hung with cur- tains, and in other respects more handsomely fur- nished. The kitchen and bar are conveniently situ- ated ; and the tables are spread with an abundance, «nd often a delicacy, which may well surprise Ihoso not accustomed to tne cheapness of travelling in this part of the country. A small library, a number of newspapers, &c. will serve to make the time pass agreeably, even if the tra- veller be a stranger, or the weather not inviting. In many places, the view from the deck is highly inte- S'esting ; but it cannot be too often recommended to the stranger to beware of standing on deck when ap- {)roaching a bridjaje, and never to expose the head or landn rtnt of a window. RKNSSELAERWYCK, A fine estate with its respectable old mansion house, about a mile north of the centre of the city, is worthy of particular observation, as the seat of the Honour- able Stephen Van Rensselaer, who bears the respected old Dutch title of Patroon of Albany. The estate is of immense value, extending ten miles along the river, and double that distance east and west; while he porscfses besides, a fine tract on the Black River, &c. It was forme?ly entailed and secured by law to the oldest son of the family ; but on the death ot the present pro- prietor it is to be divided equally among all the chil- dren. The character of Gen. V. R. is too estimabli^ and influential to allow his name to be passed over in silence, even in a work like the present little volume. He has been a powerful patron, tor many years, of all plans for the public beneht,and one of the earliest and most eflicient friends of the Erie Canal, which passes through his grounds, and terminates Avithin viewof hi-' hou^e. 'fL ■.i ''. <^": SariUotiii x' Sprinas il"^- Ji nils ton* .^ pun lis B. '1 1 1 s ton Village •% Stilt \iuitcr iFans- |C Jinictton%] a' \, Arsenal Ijtff, 'Woy -•^'^ //,..■/,..,' t'KlTED STATES ARfcliN'AL.. 49 U. States' Arsenal, 5j miles, at Gibbonsville. The advantages of this situation will be immediately per- ceived : the vicinity to the Hudson, the road, and the canal aflfording every convenience for the transporta- tion of arms and ammunition. This depository of arms, &c. is under the charge of Major Talcott. The ground occupied by the arsenal extends from the road near the river, back to the tow path of the canal, where are two gun houses, with low projecting roofs to protect the carriages from exposure to the weather. Strangei*s may easily gain access by mere application at the officers' quarters. One floor is de- voted to such arms as are intended for the supply of the military posts, or have been received for repairing. The arms in the other parts are disposed with more taste. The muskets are partly packed in boxes, and partly ranged upright, with fixed bayouets, in compact order; and present an appearance truly formidable. Thousands of pistols are hung overhead ; those in the alternate lines standing different ways ; and swords with metallic scabbards are disposed horizontally oii wire hooks. The walls bear several devices formed of swords, pistols, &.c. ingeniously arranged. This is the principal depot of arms and. equipments in the ijorthern states. The passages and staircases are hung with drums, &c. On the ground floor are a few pieces of artillery, and various sizes of shot, shells, &c. &;c. In the yard are two ranges of buildings. That on the north is devoted to workshops for the repair of arms, manufacturirg locks, &c. about 30 men being usually employed, most of whom are enlisted. The buildings on the south side are occupied by smiths and carpenters. Behind these is a handsome flower and fruit garden ; the kitchen garden being on the north side of the grounds. The muskets are repaired about once in a year ; which costs from 50 cents to gl 50 or $3 each. ' The Vnrrels are oxydjzed, to prevent rustinar. The muv .♦() uoirri: I'ti \iAtJAK.v. kets wcip:ii a liulc more Ihaii ten pounds, and the iKirth are inttMidcd to correspond as nearly a>s can easily be ilonc. In the yard are a number ol' cannon, &c. There are 4 medium 12 pounders, one 24, and one howitzer, all taken at Saratoga ; 4 medium IxJ pounders and one howitzer, taken at Yorktown ; two long antique pieces and one S inch mortar, taken at Stony Point ; two old French 4 pounders and 14 ^uns, sent by king; Louis to the Continental Congress m tlie Revolution. These are all of brass, and most of them higchly ornamented. The French guns presented by the king bear each an individual name t'orward, and the inscription " Vliima ratio irgniri'' — (the last ai|!;ument of kings.) There are also three or tour howitzers cast in New- York and Philadelf)hia in the Revolution, some of the oldest specimens ot such manufacture in this country. They bear the letters V. C. for United Colonies. TROY, On the opposite side of the river is a very liandsome town, with nne hills in the rear, the most prominent of which has received the name of Mount Ida, to cor- respond with the classic appellation of the place. There ii a good horse ferry, which helps to render the; town a great thoroughfare during the travelling season. The Dam and Basin at Troy form a great and expen- sive work, and are of marked benefit to the place, by diverting a part of the business of the canal. The court-house, and other public buildings are worthy of notice. The road to New-Lebanon is a very good and very pleasant one. The distance is 27 miles. Sandy Lake is 10 miles on this road, Nassau 8 more, village of New-Lebanon 12 further, and Lebanon Springs 2 more. On Mount Ida, the hill east of Troy, is a fine suc- t*;feSion of vaterfallg, or two streamy, ike Poestenkill 4 IT\ 01' TllUV. 61 .tiid the Wyrianlskill. One of them Ijas cut its way ill some places to a great depth, and takes three or lour pornendicular leaps at short intervals of only a few yards. The road to New-Lebanon Springs leads near the place, which is worthy of attention for its picturesque character. There are several mills of different descriptions^ and a cotton manufactory on the same stream, where Nos. 34 and 36 are made. The factory is large enough for 2,300 spindles and 70 power looms. Mount Ida. — The view from the top of this hill, and still more from the mountain behind it, is very exten- sive and beautiful. It embraces the Hudson for a considerable distance up and down ; with the courses of the two canals, beiore and after their junction ; together with many of the objects alrfjady spoken of; particularly the range of the distant Catskill Mountains which present a boundary to the scene in the south-wes:'.. A canal route has been surveyed by the slate ct Massachusetts, from Boston to Troy. From Trov to Connecticut river, 78 miles of canal would cost three millions of dollars, with a tunnel of four miles through Iloosac mountain, lockage 611 feet. At the Fan Rensselaer School, the students deliver lectures, by turns, on the branches of study to wbicli they are devoted ; and during the pleasant seasons of the year, they allow much time to making personal observations on farming, the botany of the neighbour- hood, &;c. Boarding costs about $1,50 per week, and no charge is made for room rent, use of the library, apparatus, &lc. nensselaer School at Troy. — A very liberal and gene- rous step has been adopted, with regard to the ad- mission of pupils into this institution. Any person above 18 years of age is gratuitously offered educa- tion, who shall present a certificate from the first judge of any county in the state, attesting his scientific ac- quisitions to be equal to those required by law, to be tatia^ht in any incorporated academy there ; and thaf .1 ItOTlTE TO MA(;AKA. he has a ^ood moral character, and will return to his county and exert himself to introduce and extend the experimental plan of education. Miss Willard's Academy, for young ladies, is also a very respectable establishment. The Flour MilU south of the town, can grind 2000 bushels of wheat in a day, and 1500 with ease. The Nail and Spike Manufactory makes, of red- hot iron, every thing from a shingle nail to a ship spike. HYDROSTATIC LOCK. In order to prevent fraud in the collection of toll, three of these works have been constructed : — one at Troy, one at Utica, and one at Syracuse. They are commonly called weigh-locks. The following account of them may be interesting to those who have never seen them. The chamber is on the same level with the canal, and is filled from it by a paddle gate. On a level below the chamber, is a receptacle, intb which the chamber can be emptied ; and from this the water can be discharged. " Suppose the column of water in the lock in which the boat is afloat, is 85 feet long, 15 wide, and 4 feet deep ; then by multiplying the length, width, and depth of this column into each other, its contents in cubic feet are obtained. The water is then drawn off into the receptacle, and the boat settles down upon timbers, so arranged as to yield to its shape, by which it is supported, without being strained or injured. The quantity of water drawn from the lock is then ascertained by a graduated rod. Suppose the' water in the receptacle measures 30 feet long, 25 feet wide, and 5 feet deep : these, multiplied into each other as before, will produce 3750 cubic (eet It appears from the above, that the water, with the loaded boat floating in it, contained 6100 cubic feet, and that the same water- THE JTNCTIO^. drawn oli' and measured separately, contained 3750 rubic feet, which, subtraQted from the preceding, will ^ive 1350 cubic feet of water dispFacea by the loaded boat. And as a cubic foot of fresh water weighs 1000 ounces avoirdupois, or 62i pounds, it follows that 1350X62i=84375, the weight of the loaded boat. This is to be reduced to tons, and the weight of the empty boat previously ascertained in the same manner, is to be deducted, and the remainder will be tho Aveight of the cargo. After an empty boat has been once weighed, she is numbered, and her weight h registered at the several hydrostatic locks." Some of the ordinary Ibcks on the route were altered on a new plan in 1827, by which they arc emptied in half the former time. The opportunity for looking around on every side is much better enjoyed in a canal boat than in a stage cx)ach, or even a private carriage, although it some- times happens, that the road commands more extensive views than the canal. The immediate scene from thn latter, however, will usually be found the most agree- ablie ; for a sttiooth sheet of water, with level and' often grassy banks, is a more pleasant sight than a loi*)g stretch of muddy or sanoy highway. Besides, it is always free from the inconvenience of dust, which frequently renders the roads in this part of the cotititry extremely uncoftifortable. 7he Double Locks. — The two locks whrch occur just ])elovv the junction of the northern and western canals, were doubled in 1825, to furnish room for th^ l>oat,s, which pass here in great numbers. They are built of marble from Westchester county. The Junction, 8J miles from Albany, is where the Northern and Western canals meet and unite. To this spot the canal has been of a greater width than either of the branches will be found to be. The Northern canal runs to Whitehall, Lake Champlain, with locks, a distance of 62^ miles, passing through ^V-^tprford, Halfmoon.StiUwater.near Remis's Heifirht«. TiT oi KOL'A'E TO MAIJAUA. (14 miles from Waterford,) with the battle grounds ot' (Jeneral Bur^oyne, Fort Hardy, where he siuTeiidcred, Fort Miller, Fort Edward, and Fort Anne. The Erie or Western, canal, reaches to Buffalo, on Lake Erie, a distance of 362 miles. It has 83 locks, which raise and lower the water 608 feet in all. The principal points where the most labour and expense were required, are the following : The Basin at Albany, — the Dam and Basin at Troy, — the Locks at the Cohoes Falls, — the two Aqueducts on which the canal twice crosses the Mohawk, — the long- Stone Wall and Locks at Little Falls, together with the beautiful Aqueduct for the Feeder at that place, — the long stretch through the Onondaga Swamp, — the great Embankment at Victor, where for two miles the boats pass 72 feet above the level, — the Aqueduct over the Genesee at Rochester, — the five double combined Locks at Lockport, and the long Pier at Black Rock. The principal natural objects near it are : The Cohoes Falls,— Little Falls,— the Falls of Tren- ton, 14 miles north-east of Utica, — the Lakes of Onei- da, Salina, Onondasra, Cayuga, Seneca, and Canan- daigua — the three Falls of the Genesee River, at Rochester and Carthage, — Niagara, — and the Lakes of Ontario and Erie. The amount of toll received on the Erie, Cham- plain, Oswego, and Cayuga canal?, in 1829, was $816,302. At the 9 Locks f the road to Waterford leaves the Erie canal on the west, and the Champlain canal on the east ; and crosses the Mohawk River below the Cohoes Falls. There is a very fine view of t})e locks, the river, and the falls, from the road which runs along; the south bank of the river, 140 feet high, between it and the canal. (The book will now follow the great route, west- ward, to Niagara. For the road to the Springs* spe JVnterford.) iMON coLua.i:. iji) uruis ot idcred, talo, oil I locks, . The t Troy, jeducts k,— the Dgether at that )wamp, 'or two il,— the he five le long^ f Tren- f Onei- Canan- ver, at Lakes Cham- 9, was /es the anal on ow the locks, s along: veen it , west- COHOES FALLS. Tliis is the great Cataract of the Monawk River. The height of the fall is 62 feet. The banks are mere walls of stratified rock, rough, and sometimes hollowed out beneath, rising about 140 feet above the river for a great distance below the falls. A beautiful new bridge, on Towne's plan, was built across the river in 1828, near the dam, some distance below the old bridice. At first view the cataract appears almost as regular as a mill-dam ; but on a nearer approach, the lodge of rocks over which the water is precipitated is found extremely irregular and broken. Many fine fi^h arc caught at the bottom. The L(mcr AquedvcU 2ry miles. On account of the difficulty of cutting the canal along this side of the river, above this place, it was found easier to carry it over, as there is a natural channel on the other side, which will be seen with surprise. This aqueduct is 1188 feet long, and rests on 26 stone piers and abut- ments. Wat Hoix Gap, 2^ miles — the channel above men- tioned. Upper Jiqueduct, ^\ miles — 748 feet lono^, and rests on 16 piers. The scene at Jllexanders Bridge is fine. Schenectady {Givens'' Inn) is one of the oldest set- tlements in the state, having been occupied as a little Irontier fortress before the year 1665, when it was attacked by a party of French and Indians from Canada, and burnt, and many of the inhabitants mur- dered. This party was designed against the Five Nations ; but being much worn down with travelling in the winter, they fell on Schenectady. Union College is conspicuously situated a little out ;tilution. li' i"i 0(> ilOU-TE TO iMAO'AiiA. I'^ttOM SCHENECTADV '10 1 TIUA. By the Canal 79^ miles.* Rotterdam Flats . . /. . 3 miles. Flint Hill S Fort Hunter 10 North of the conal, and on the bank of the Moliawk, is the place where this little fort formerly stood. Like most of the places of defence built in this state during the Revolution and the French wars, «t was small and fitted only for resisting such little bands of enemies as used to approach the settlements on this frontier. Near this place is the site of an old fort of the Mo- hawk Indians ; and there is still to be seen a chapel built by Qjueen Anne, near the beginning of the fast century, for the use of that nation. It ' ^cnown \)y the name of Queen Anne^s ChapeL SCHOHARIE CREEK. 1 mile. sni Here is a collection of several very interesting workt, formed for the convenient passage of boats across a broad and rapid stream. A guard lock preserves the water in the canal from rising or falling, and the cur- rent of the creek is set back hy a dam a little below, nearly to the same level. The dam is constructed in a manner best calculated to resist the pressure of the current in floods, and when increased by the ice. It has a broad foundation and a narrow top ; and it k built so as to present an an^le against the middle of the current. An ingenious invention has been devised for drawing boats across the creek by machinery. A wheel turned by a horse moves a rope, which is stretched double across, and is carried round a wheel on the other side ; a line attached to this draws the boats, they being kept in their course by another line, *■ Fv th'irorrt?, SI ini!(!3. ^ce *'i?t;riY?--->" at tfi<) eml of tht voliimp- A. Mohawk, )d. Like ite during small and nemies as itier. r the Ma- a chapel f the fast nown b}" ig workfc, across a erves the the cur- e below, ucted in re of the ice. It and it k liddle of I devised leiy. A vhich is a wheel raws the her hne, IIP1PI ^i^ ^■■■PWPliiiP \. i:- t AMHOiS^ S ttOdL. • } i II r. whicil slides upon a long ro{^e stretched acioss the creek on the other side oi the boats. CAUGHNAWAGA, 4i miles. '.'■'.»'. The village of Johnstown is situated at the distance of four miles north of the canal.* Antkony^s JVosCf 7 J miles. This is a high and pro- iiiinent hill, rising abruptly on the southern bank of the river. On the top is a remarkable cavern, which extends downwards to a great depth, with beveral * Tribe's Hill is n commanding elevation within tlie limits of Jolins- lown. It w"TB formerly the niace of the council fire of the Mohawk Indiana ; and the GermanH iinve corrupted its name to "Tripe's Hill," by which it is commonly known. At Johnstown, on the road, are two fine houses, built of stone, staudint; rit Uie distance of a mile from each other. They were erected by Sir William Johnson and his family, as this tract of country was the place of his resideni'H, mid i'ornied a part of iiiM vast and valuable estaii;. There was origiiiully a third house, similarly built, and at the interval of another mile : but this was consumed by iire. Col. Guy Johnson and Col. John Johnson (sons of Sir William) inhabited two of them until the revolutionary war; when, having attached themselves to the Britisii interest, they removed into Canada, and their estates were confiscated. Colonel John afterward came down with a party of French and In- dians, attacked the town, and made prisoners many of his old (ricnds and neighbours. Sir William Johnsi n, who makes so conspicuous a figure in thr. history of tlie state aboLt the time of the French war, was born in Ire- land, in 1714, and in 1734 came to America, at the solicitation of his uncle, Sir Peter Warren, who had acfjuirfid a large estate here thro>ij};h his wife. Sir William became well acquainted with the Indian languai;c and manners, and acquired a greater intlucnce over them than any oth«:^^r white man ever ijossessed. He rose from the station of a private soldier to the rankof a general, and commanded at lake George in 1755,alihougI.>, as vili hereafter be seen, the title which he there received was really inrriied by Gen. Lyman. July 25, 1759, he took Fort Niagara, and in r69 went to join Gen. Amherst at Oswego, and assisted in the capture of Montreal. He died and was buried at his seat, July 7, 1774, at the age of 60, very rich, in consequence of the increased value of his exten- sive estate afier the French war. This building was erected in 1773, and stands nearly a mile westward from the village. It is called the Hall. The Battle of Johnstown. On the 25th of October, 1781, Col. Wlllet, with 400 white men and GO of the Oneida tribe, fought GOO of the Eng- lish and Indians, on the grounds belonging to the mansion. The loss of the "nemy was considerable, and they suffered so much during tlieiJ" retreat, that on their arrival in Canada their numbers were iedoce^ittiful meadow of fine soil, and a smooth surface ; F5 ^t liOMTE TO JVIAGAHA. through which the Mohawk winds in a plaeid and gentle current, enclosed on each side by sloping hills. At the distance of three miles, we are in the level region called the German Fiats, famous for its fertility. The inhabitants, who are almost all of German extraction, still preserve their language, and many of the customs of their ancestors, and tnough often laborious and provident farmers, are little inclined to those improve- ments in learning or the useful arts, which distinguish so large a portion of the state. The scenes presented along this part of the canal bear a resemblance to some of the meadows of the Connecticut, altliough of inferior size, and of more recent settlement. Six miles from Little Falls is Lock JVo, 48. An old church is seen on the south side ; and also, old Fort Herkimer. Herkimer. This village is situated about a mile and a half beyond, and a mile north of the canal, on a semicircular plain ; the circumference of which is traced by the Mohawk, and the diameter by the great road, it derives its name from Gen. Herkimer, of whom there will be more to say at Rome. Fort Herkimer, or the *' Stone House," is near the canal, a mile and a half from Herkimer. The traveller may take a carriage here, to visit Trenton Falls, and join the canal again at Utica ; or go first from Utica. The Long Level begins at Lock No. 53, nearly six miles west of Herkimer. It is the longest reach on the canal, without any interruption by locks, extending to Salina, a distance of 69 J miles. Alter passing, Frankfort, we reach UTICA. This is one of the largest and most important of the western towns. Here the river, the great road, and the canal, all meet again. There are also roads con centrating here, from various directions, and stage !»»^IVW!»»'«S'IM,"«"»!^'»!'5PT'''^*''''''''^ "^ 1 mp Ut \r-^.^ TliUM'O^ lAliLs. o; it 1-oachca anivii)^ and departing in great numbeij^. There are two Targe stage houses ; one of which, at the canal bridge, will be found nnost convenient, if not loo crowded. There are several handsome churches in Utica, and one or more for almost every denomination. The streets are broad, straight, and commodious ; and the principal ones well built with rows of brick stores, or elegant dwelling-houses. The' bridge over the Mo- hawk is at the end of the street. There were, in 1825, 5040 inhabitants : a few less than in Rochester. Weigh Lock. (See p. 52.) Hamilton College is situated near the village of Clinton, nine miles from Utica. There were fourteen graduated here in 1828. TRENTON FALLS. c This most interesting vicinity is well worthy th attention of every person of taste, bein^ justly consi- dered one of the finest natural scenes m this part of the country. An excellent inn is kept near the falls by Mr. Sherman, who has a large collection of rare and curious petrilactions, collected among the rocks, worthy of examination. From this house you descend a long staircase down the steep bank of tne West Canada Creek, which has cut a frightful chasm through a rocky range, in some places 150 feet deep, and is seen giiiding swiftly by through a declining channel below. The chasm con- tinues for four miles, and presents the greatest variety' of cascades and rapids, boiling pools and eddies. The passage or chasm between the rocks is everywhere very narrow, and in some places is barely sufficient to permit the stream to pass ; while the rocks rise perpendicularly on each side, or sometimes even project a considerable distance overhead, so that it lias been often necessary to form an artificial path by means of gunpowder. These places appear dawge^- i 'If i t; tJ4 llOtlE TO MAliAllA. ons, but only require a little caulioii and presence ol' mind to ensure the snfety of the visiter, as strong iron chains are fixed into the rocks to offer him security. There are four principal cataracts, between the stair- case by which you first descend and the usual limit of an excursion, which is about a mile and a quartet up the stream. The fii-st of these you discover soon after the first turning:, and is about 40 lieet hie^ ; with the greatest fall towards the west. The top of the rock on the riffht side is 150 feet high by line mea- surement. The second is a reisjular fall, much like a mill dam, about eight feet high ; the third, a remark- ably striking and beautiful one ; and the fourth, rather a succession of cascades, but presents many most agreeable varieties. Near the foot of this a melancholy accident occurred in 1827. A lady from New-York was drowned by slipping from a low bank ; unseen, although her friends and parents were near her. The ear is stunned by the falls, the rocks are slippery, and great caution is re- commended. A singular species of tree is found in this neighbour- hood, called the white cedar, with drooping branches, which often grow to such a length as to descend far below the root, towards the water. The rocks here are all a dark limestone, of a very slaty structure, and contain astonishing quantities of petrified marine shells and other animals of antediluvian date, such as dilobites, trilobftes, &c. &.c. The are several other cataracts besides those already mentioned, both above and below ; and a stranger might spend some time here very agreeably in observ- ing them at leisure, and in catching the fine trout with which the creek abounds. The house is commbdious, and has the reputation of furnishing one of the best tables m this part of the state. SrtGE OJ- LOUT STA.NWIX. (wi FROM UTICA TO SYHACLSE. By the Canal C3| miles. VVhitf.^tovvn, 4 miles. Oriskany village, . . 7 Rome on the right, C Feeder from Wood Creek, and the old U. S. Arsenal, 1 Oneida Creek, 14 Lock 54, end of the long level, ... 29 Syracuse, — 4 These places are noticed in succession. Whitestown is one of the most beautiful villages in this part of the state, as well as the oldest settlement. All this tract of country was a perfect wilderness in 1785, when Mr. White, from Middletown, in Connec- ticut, first took up his abode here and lifted an axe against the forest. The traveller may keep this in mind as he pursues his journey, and the progress of civilization will appear more astonishing. SIEGE OF FORT STANWIX. On the road from Whitestown to f >me, is the spot wnere Gen. Herkimer remained undei * tree after re- ceiving his mortal wound. In 1777, Gen. Burgoyne sent between 1500 and 1800 men, many of them sa- vages, under Baron St. Leger, to go from Montreal, by Lake Ontario, to attack Fort Stanwix; and then to go down the Mohawk to Albany. Early in August, they arrived at Fort Stanwix. Gen. Herkimer, com- mander of the militia of Tryon county, was sent against them with 800 men. His men insisted on going on, to meet a detachment under Sir J. Johnson, sent out by St. Leger; but at the first ht rthey fled. A few re- mained and fought, and Gen. H. was killed. Con- gress voted a monument tc his memory, but it has never been erected. The Americans lost 160 killed. nnd 240 wounded and prisonnr?. Two miles beloi\ I IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /. ^>. 1.0 I.I | io ""^" Iffl^B U Itti ■^ 14 1^ 1.25 1.4 1.6 -< 6" - ► V} V) / em ^i > ■■?, "^ M Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WG>T MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S80 (716) 872-4503 PPVMi 66 KOUTSi: TO NIAGARA. Fort Stanwix the canal commenc€S between the Mo- hawk and Wood Creek. Fort Stanwix stood 60 or 80 rods N. E. of the centre of the village of Rome, with a deep ditch, three rows of palisadoes, and a block -house in the middle. Rome. Near this village^ when the canal was opened throupfh a Tid|s:e of diluvial formation, clams were found alfve, which were eaten by the workmen. (See Am* Journ. of Sci. &c. Jan. 1829.) ONEIDA CAiSTLE. This is a village on the confines of a tract of re- served land belonging: to the Indians of the Oneida nation. The principal residences of most of the In- dians in this part of the country were formerly forti- fied In a manner corresponding with their ideas of warfare, and hence the name of castle attached to this village, as well as to several others which we have occasion to speak o( further on. The Oneiaas were one of the original Five Nations, which form so conspicuous a figure in the history of this state, and whose power and influence, at the time of the settlement of New- York and New-England, were extended far and wide. A mile east o( Oneida Creek, and by the road side, is the ancient COUNCIL GROVE, Where all the public business of the nation has been, for many years, transacted. It is formed of 27 fine but- ternut-trees, which, in the sf^mmer season, from a little distance, presents a beautiful and regular mass of ver- dure. Towards the south-east from this place is seen the "Episcopal church, a building recently erected for the use of the Indians. Great numbers of the white per- sons from the neighbourhood also attend service at diis house, as well as in the other church, which is supplied ^vit^^ preachers by the Foreign Missionary Society. iUHiJlltiiiOUxN ANU KEW-STOCKBUIDGE. (i7 side, )eeQ, biat- I little ver- seen id for peT- It this In the scattering: village about half a mile beyond, there are several decent and comfortable frame houses inhabited by Indian families, whose habits have risen to a higher grade than most of the nation, although many of them are gradually improving, by betaking themselves to agriculture. A considerable portion of the tribe have recently removed to Green Bay. Schools among the Indians are encouraged by the general government of the U. S. In the whole coun- try there are 42 schools in different tribes, with 129t pupils, and i:2i teachers. The annual cost to the U. States is g7000. The scholars are taught the rudiments of learning under a master and mistress, and also the useful arts. The Oneida nation were idolaters until within a short time ; but a few years ago the nation renounced their ancient superstitious rites, and declared in favour of Christianity. BROTHERTOWN AND NEW-STOCKBRIDGE Are two villages, a few miles south-easterly from here, situated on part of the old Oneida reservation, but granted to some of their scattered Indian bnetbren from Pennsylvania and New-England. New-Stock- bridge, until recently, was the residence of the Stock- brid^f^ tribe, who came by an invitation from the Oneidas some years ago. They had Christian minis- ters among them long before they removed from Stockbridge irx. Massachusetts. Most of them now reside at Green Ba^, on land given them by the Menominies, a nation with whom they are on the most friendly terms ; and are adopting to a good extent, the arts of civilized life. They have invited the Oneidas to joki them. McmUuR Centre. 60 yards from the canal and two miles east of Manlius Centre, is a curious spring, from ^vhich fsulphurpttpd bydix)gen rises, and is innaramnbJ**- ti{5 KOLTi: TO jMAUAUA. |( SYRACUSE. This place is no less remarkable for the rapiditjr oi its s^/towthf than for the peculiar advantages oi its situ- atbn. The p^reat Salt Spring is only a mile and a half distant, and the water is Drought in hollow logs to the salt vats, in great abundance, and at a very trifling expense. T^se vats will be seen at (he western side of the village, and are well worthy of a day's delay, as well as the works at Salina^ Liverpool (6 miles distant), and Geddesburgh. In all these four villages, about 500 acres, in 1827, were supposed to be covered with vats, for solar evaporation. The vats are large pans mad^ of wood, three or four inches deep, raised a little from the ground, and placed in long ranges, with a very gradual descent, to permit the salt water to flow slowly along from one end to the other. Each range of vats is supplied by a hollow log placed per- pendicularly in the ground ; and the constant action of the sun evaporates the water, and leaves the salt to be deposited m small cubical crystals at the bottom. Tne water is at first a little thick, but gradually deposites its impurities; and the lower vats always show a beautiful white crust, like the purest snow. Light wooden roofs are kept ready to slide over the vats when the weather requires it ; and the salt is taken out once in two or three days, to be deposited in the storehouses, which are built at regular distances. Thence it is easily removed to the c^nal, and then is ready for transportation to any part of the country. In 1823, there were about 100 houses, and the number was doubled in 1824. In 1825, the inhabitants amounted to 1000 ; and those of the township to 3025. There were then three churches in the village ; and 736,632 bushels of salt were manufactured here in that year. In 1827, the salt vats covered one hundred and ^ixty acres, and cost the companies engaged, $120,000 H„^?- ,_.,,,,, J . <» "SlI;^ V*' / -m. i>^. s.. ... ' A .*'/ dity ot ts situ- l a half to the trifling im side delay, > miles illages, covered e large , raised ranges, t water Each ed per- ction of lit to be bottom. 3osite9 low a ►ver the s taken in the s. k) then ountry. number bitants o 3025. e ; and i in that red and 20.000 '-iS'^.f^f *■■* 4. iV* ■■■^"' : ,.1*??*..^-. •.,-'* f. :^^"- ,..j!' ^' -^ ^J5 . ■»f^ , ,-, .. . -J, • '■'1i^>.K':" ■ ,c • .... I.' / ^J^- y- t ■ -' • ■ ^ *. I ■■'' ^«fv ^^r-^:>> ?^: .,,M>- m^- '^ \ • ■■-♦J V .i ^■J^; t^W ■> ■■> ^ . ,^.«'- '■^:- ^^ ' X ^ SAi.li.\A aAJLiT UOiiJvn. tjy Undei" such encouraging prospects, the village ha«i acquired its sudden growth and importance ; large blocks of stores have oeen built on both sides of the canal, two or three large inns and stage houses are ready for the accoiimodation of travellers, and a good deal of trade is carried on in the place. Improvements are still going on rapidly, and it is difficult to foretell where they will stop. Almost 3500 bushels of salt are made here in a year. The Oswego Canal, was opened in July, 182S, leaves the Erie canal at this place, and affords a direct communication with Lake Ontario. A lake ship canal might be made at a small additional expense. The bank is used as a tow path a consideraole distance. The shores rise gradually to a height of 100 feet, with few inhabitants and little cultivation. The locks and other works are of the best description, and veiy ad- mirable workmanship. A barrel of flour '''ill go for six cents less, by the lake and this canal, from Ro< Chester to Salina. It is 38 miles long. Half that dis- tance it is constructed alon^ the bank of the river of the same name, connected with it by locks, and the other half is slack-water navigation in the river. It has 22 bridges, 7 culverts, 1 aqueduct, 2 waste weirs, 8 dams across the river, 13 locks of stone and 1 of stone and timber, with an aggregate lift of 123 feet. By a recent survey, a canal from Syracuse through Homer to Binghampion, on the Susquehannah, has been pronounced practicable. Syracuse Weigk-Lock. (Sec p. 52.) SALINA h situated a mile and a half north from this place^ and should not be passed by unnoticed. A small but convenient little packet boat is continually plying between the two places, drawn by a single horse, and passes by many salt manufactories, built on both sides of the cannl. The mode of evaporation generally o 70 HOlViu TO AlAUAKA. adopted here, is that of boiling ; and a brief descriptiuit will convey a clear idea of the process. Each buildinsi: contains sixteen or eighteen large iron kettles, of 120 gallons each, which are placed in two rows, forming what is called ** a block. They stand about three feet higher than the floor ; and under them is a large furnace, which is heated with pine wood, and requires constant attention to keep the water always boiling. The water is drawn from a lai^e reservoir at one end of the building, after having been allowed to stand awhile and deposite the impurities it has brought along with it. A hollow log, with a pump at one end, and furnished with openings against the Kettles, is the only machine used in filling them. The first deposite made by the water after the boiling commences, is a com- pound of tseveral substances, and is thrown away, under the name of " Bittern ;" but the pure white salt* which soon after makes its appearance, is carefully removed, and placed in a store-room just at hand, ready for barrelling and the market. Each manufactory yields about 40 bushels a day, and the different buildings cost about half a million. There are two lai^e manufactories here, where salt is made in reservoirs of an immense size, and evapo- rated by hot air passing through them in large pipes. The reservoir of the principal one contains no less tnan 40,000 gallons. The pipe is supplied with heat by a furnace below, and the salt is formed in lai^e loose masses, resembling half-thawed ice. The crystali- zation also is different from that produced by the other modes, at least in secondary forms. The village of Salina is of considerable size and a flourishing appearance, considering the shortness of the time since it began to be built, and the serious obstacles it has had to encounter in the unhealthiness of its situation. In 1825, it contained 1000 inhabitants ; the village of Geddes, 520 ; and Liverpool, 375. The extensive marshes which bound it on the west are ex* tremely unwholesome during: the "^varraer seasons of " *'Si'!f*U' SALINA SALT WUKKS. 71 the year, and the whole neighbourhood is more or less infected with the fever and ague : that terrible scourge, which has retarded so much the settlement of many Earts of this western country. Since the marshes have een partially cleared and drained, the disease has been greatly diminished ; and it is hoped that time and industry will reduce its ravages still further, if not entirely eradicate it. The branch canal which runs through this village, is applied to other valuable purposes besides those of transportation. A sluice which draws off a portion of the water towards the marshes and the lake, is made to turn several mill-wheels in its course. A forcing pump raises the water of the salt spring destined to supply the manufactories here and at Syracuse ; and a large open frame building shows the spot from which all the Kettles and the pans of both these places derive their supplies : that for the latter being elevated to the height of 70 feet, and the pump being able to raise 120,000 gallons in 24 hours. The Salt luring itself will be viewed as a curiosity, but in its present state presents no very remarkable ap- pearance, as there is little commotion visible on the surface, and the source would seem by no means equal to the great draughts which are continually made upon it. The Lake will be seen at the distance of about a mile. It is six miles long and two broad, and must receive a considerable quantity of salt water from the draining of the marshes, as its banks are covered with saline plants. The valley is surrounded by limestone hills, with petrifactions ; and gypsum is found in great quantities. " TTie American Salt Formation^'' savs Dr. Van Rens- selaer in his ' Essay,' '^ extends over tne continent from the Alleghanies to the Pacific, between 31* and 4.!i° N. lat. In this immense tract, rock salt has been occasionally found ; but its locality is more generally pointed out by brine springs." The salt springs in thi<^ stale are in the counties ot Onondaara, Caynga, r 7:i liOUTJC TO KIAtiAKA. Seneca, Ontario, Niagara, Genesee, Tompkirfci, Wajne, and Oneida ; but this is the most valuable on various accounts. In 1828 there were 1,160,088 bushels inspected: and in 1829, 1,291,820 bushels, showing an increase of 130,932 bushels. Of this, 745,741 bushels were inspected at Salina, 229,317 at Syracuse, 187,540 at Liverpool, and 129,222 at Geddes. The number of manufactories was increased during the past year, notwithstanding the reduction in the price of salt ; and the quality of the brine has been improved and the quantity increased by means of {perforations into the earth, to the depth of about sixty I'eet, so that the assurance is given of a supply to the utmost that will probably evel- become necessary. FROM SYRACUSE TO ROCHESTER. As the traveller is supposed to go to Rochester by the canal, the description of places on the Turnpike is omitted until we reach that part of the countiy on the return from Buffalo. By tlie canal, 99 miles. Weed's Basin 26 m. — A coacD to Auburn, 8 miles for 50 cents. 11 m. Mon- tezuma Salt Woiks. Here begin the Cayuga Marshes. The canal acioss the marshes was constructed at a vast oxpense. 35 m. Palmyra. Coach to Canandaigua, 13 m. for 75 cents. The Great Embankment at Victor, 72 feet high, extending 2 miles. Antiquities, In the towns of Onondaga^ Camillus, and Pompe]^, are the remains of ancient villages and forts, of which a description will be found in Yates and Moulton's new History of the State, vol. i. p. 13. In Pompey the form of a triangular enclosure is visible, with the remains of something like circular or ellip- tical forts at the corners, 8 miles apart, the whole including more than 500 acres. De Witt Clinton, late Governor of this state, in his memoir, read in 1817, hefoFf the Lit. and Phil. Society, thinks the place was m.— -A Mon- arshes. I a vast laigua, ent at millus, es and Yates p. 13. 'isible, • ellip- whole linton, 11817, e iva^ J i/ ' ■' • mpkinfii. lable on (bushels > ,."■■';■ \ .»t • ■■«•.•- ., ^ wing an ■ ■ Sah'na, 129,222 [ during in the as been eans of ' ut sixty f to the / "- ■ J ♦ . iry. ;^.-..';Vr..'-'^:^.(;,-..\i/i^& ;..?i: R. sler by irnpike ntry on .n "..-f ^". ^ ■ V r ;..^.^. ^r^. . *■?#!? v■'^*■';■■.■^''■^"*^^-. -*-^ ^^^=i • ..T. ' ' ' ■'''i'/"''^ "^ ■f'-'f"^-'"' ■?^,:;j4\:.4*^>:X'/iH -:-./i^.i:v .-g-^, 9 I ■ y:*!/ HP" UDUlIEbTLK. 73 I> «: ^loriiied oil tlie north line. See also North American Review. In Camillus is an elliptical fort on a high hill, three acres in extent, with a covered way, 10 rods long, to a spring on the west, and a gate towards the east. An- other is on a less elevation half a mile off, and half as large. Sculls, pottery, and bits of brick used to be picked up in these places. (There is a bed of Coal in Onondaga.) ROCHESTER Is the largest and most flourishing place in this part of the state, being indeed the fourth in the state in point of numbers, the township containing, in 1827, 10,818. It has several good inns, one of the best of which is the " Coffee House," near the canal bridge. It is situated on the west side of the Genesee river, at the upper falls, where it is crossed by the canal ; and enjoys the finest advantages for water-mills of all kincU, from the convenient and abundant supply ob- tained from the falls. Sta^e Coaches so hence, daily, to Buffalo through Batavia ; three daily to Canau- daigua ; one daily to Niagara falls by Lockport and Lewiston, &c. &c. Rochester was first surveyed into lots in the year 1811, the first settlement made in 1812, and it was not until the latter part of the year 1814, that any consider- able addition was made to the number of inhabitants. In September, 1818, the village contained 1049 inhabit- ants ; in August, 1820, 1502 ; in September, 1822, 3130, (which included labourers on the public works ; the permanent population at that time was estimated at about 2700) In 1824, 4274 ; in 1825, 5271 ; and in 1827, 10,818. There are some fine dwellings, an arcade, a court house, jail, market, 13 lar^e flour mills of stone, which can make .342,000 barrels of flour annually. There are 52 run of stones in all. About 9 million feet of O 2 I 4 KOLIK TO MAirAKA. lumber are sawed hi*re in a year ; and 5 miliioii'* brought down the river. There is a cotton factory, with 1400 spindles and 30 power looms, and a woollen factory ; three bridges over the Genesee, 8 canal basins, two dry docKs, &c. The Broadway bridge, BOO feet long, is a few yards above the aqueduct. There is an eye and ear infirmary, a bank, a High School, and 6 meeting-houses for Episcopalians, Pres- byterians, Methodists, Friends, and Catholics. The water power belonging to this village and the vicinity is equal to the power of 38,400 horses ; or, 1 ,920 steam engines of 20 horse power each. There- fore the water power is worth (computing the cost of such engines, as in England, at $8,880 each ; and the annual expense of working at 222 dollars for each horse power,) almost ten millions annually. Only a small part of it is yet used. The whole river supfjlies 20,000 cubic feet a minute ; and the combined height of the falls at Rochester and Carthage is about 280 feet. A fall of 12 J cubic feet of water in a minute, 20 feet is equal to the power of one horse. The proposed canal from Genesee river to Oleanon the Alleghany, would be about 110 miles long, and cost, as is estimated, about $1,320,000. It would open a valuable trade with the upper valley of the Ohio, and much increase the value of the land. The Aqueduct over the Genesee is one of the finest Avorks on the course of the canal, and is no less remark- able for its usefulness than for its architectural beauty and strength. It is borne across the river's channel, on ten arches of hewn stone. The river dashes rapidly along beneath, while boats, with goods and passengers, glide safely above. A feeder enters the canal on the east side of the river, where sluices are also constructed for the supply of the numerous manufactories built on the bank. All that part of the canal west from Rochester, is supplied with water from the Tonawanta creek. Other sluices ;ire al^^o due: on the west ?ide. where ipanv othpj niiU« mtm rAllTlIAGi:. i i> the or. the .ply AH ied aro to be seen. The streets oi the town arc hand- .somely and ree^ularly laid out, and several of them arc very well built with store and dwelling-houses of brick and stone, and well flagged on the side-walks. Falls, There is a fall in the Genesee of about DO feet, at the northern extremity of the town, another near it ;* and a fine one at Carthage, which, with the truly impressive scenery of tbe banks, is worthy of particular attention. To vary the ride, it is recom- mended to the stranger to go down on one side of the river, and after viewing the cataract, cross the bridge a little above, and return on the other. The Lake Ontario Steamboat touches at Port Ge- nesee, at the mouth of the river, on its way to Niagara and to Ogdensl)urgh — the route to Montreal. Carthage. The fall here is very sudden, tbougli not in a single precipice. The descent is 70 feet in a few yards. The cataract has evidently been retiring for ages, as the deep gulf below the falls, with its high, perpendicularand ragged banks, is sufficient testiniony; and the seclusion of the place, the solemn and sublime effect of the sceneiy, redoubled by the roaring of the cataract, combine to render it one of the most impres- sive scenes in this part of the country. The precipices are walls of secondary rocks, presenting their natural stratification, and descending from the surrounding level, to a depth of about two hundred feet. A singular vein of whitish stone will be observed, cutting them horizontally, and disappearing at the brink of the falls, which it has kept at their present position : its superior hardness, evidently resisting the action of the water for a much longer time ; and probably rendering the descent more perpend 'cular than it would otherwise be. The rocks are overhung with thick forest trees, which, in some places, have been able to find a narrow footing along the sides. One of the boldest single fabrics that art has ever * At this fall tlip noted leapor, Sam Potcli, met his (ttarti ru I^^. U'^-" ^!»ituur fVem ri f'fni!!' jjrnr tli" \ov. wvA rii"Yer ro'iy fisall}, 7(j ROUTJi TO :sj:auak.\. successfully attempted in this country, now shows a few of its remains in this place. The two great piles of timber which stand opposite each other on the narrow level, where once the river flowed, are the abutments of a bridge thrown over a few years ago. It was 400 feet in length, and 250 above the water ; but stood only a short time, and then fell with a tre- mendous crash, by its own weight. Fortunately, no person was crossing it at the time — a lady and gentle- man bad just before passed, and safely reached the other side. On account of the obstructions at the falls, navigation is entirely interrupted here ; and all the communication between the banks of the Genesee, as well as the canal, and Lake Ontario, is through Carthage. Merchandise is raised up the bank, or lowered down, by means of an inclinea plane, verj steep, where the descending weight is made to raise a lighter one by its superior gravity. This obstacle will cause a great deal of merchandise to pass through the Oswego canal. ROAD FROM ROCHESTER TO NIAGARA FALLS, 87 miles. 9 Carthage Falls To Gaines 8 Parma 9 Oak Orchard 7 Clarkson* 7 Cambria 11 Hartland 14 Lewiston 15 Sandy Creek 7 Niagara Falls 7 The principal objects on this road are, the Ridge, Lewiston, on Niagara river, and the Tuscarora Village. * Holley Village, 25 miles west of Rochester, is 12 miles distant from Idle sulphuric acid spring in Byron. Professor Eaton mentions this as the only known instance of a spring containing sulphuric acid in the world, with the exception of one in the ancient crater of Mount Idienne in Java. The editor ot the Journal, however, mentions another, spoken of by Humboldt, the Riode Vinagre, or Vinegar river, flowing tVom the extinct volcano of Purace, near Popayan, in the waters of which flsh will not live, and the spray of wbicn irritates and inflames the eyes of travfUeri?., .. LocKPOiir 77 8 7 11 15 Trom is as the nne )ken the fish sof 2\iaapara Village will be seen if you do not cross into Canada at Lewiston ; and Qjueenstown if you do. Lockport should, by all means, be visited. The Ridge is a remarkable elevation, of little height, and for the moat part veiy narrow, extendiii^ a great part of the distance from Rochester to Lewiston. It is often perfectly level for several miles, and affords an admirable foundation for the road, which has, in conse- auence, been laid along its top. The manner in which lis singular elevation could have been made, has ex- cited the speculations of many curious observers of nature, and been explained in different ways. Some have imagined that the ridge was, at some long past period, the shore of Lake Ontario, and was tlirown up by its waves ; but it is extremely difficult to understand bow the waves could have managed to banicade themselves out of a tract of country. It therefore seems more rational to adopt another theory : that the lake was formerly still more extensive than is here supposed, and overflowed the land some distance southward of this place, when a current might easily have produced a bar parallel to the shore, which, "vvhen left dry, might present the form of the ridge. The ground presents a slope on each side of the path, peculiarly well adapted for home lots, gardens, and orchards ; and the frequency and facility of trans- portation give the inhabitants very manifest advantages. Some well-built, and even handsome, houses will be observed, which are still few indeed, but show that a good style has actually been introduced. Gasport, 6^ miles east of Lockport, derives its name from the carburetted hydrogen gas which rises in the basin of the canal. LOCKPORT. This is one of the interesting places on the canal. Here is the noblest display of locKs, two ranges, made nf fj.ne hpwn stom^. beimr const rncfrd against tbp bron^ p 7 a RCH^lj; TO MAUAKA. of" tlic Mountain Ridge, where the foaming ot' the waste water, the noise of horns, and the bustle of occu- pation excite many lively feehngs. Above the locks, the Deep Cut offers a singular passage between high walls of rocks. Lockport is one of the most advantageous sites for machinery on the canal, as all the water passes down the mountain ridge, which the canal requires, for an ^xtent of 135 miles ; Tonawanta creek being the only feeder from Buffalo to the Seneca river. It is brought down by passing round the double locks, and falls 55 feet into a large natural basin, where two ranges of overshot wheels may be built, each at least 25 feet in diameter. A little water is sufficient to turn wheels of thii description. The rocks are blasted out to a depth of 60 feet. Within a few years, the spot has been changed from a wilderness to a village of 3,300 inhabitants. It is 65 miles to Rochester, and 27 to Buffalo. Minerals, The rocky stratum is a carbonate of lime, containing oi^anic remains ; encrinites, enchro- cites, &c. &c. crystals of carb. lime ; rhomboidal, dog- tooth spar, 12 sided ; fluate of lime ; beautiful crystals of sulphate of lime; sulph. of strontian; pyrites; sulphuret of zinc ; sulphuret of lead. Collections of minerals may be purchased here. The Tuscarora reservation is an oblong tract of land reaching within a mile of Lewiston. They emigrated from North Caro- lina, near the beginning of the last century, at an invi- tation from the Five Nations, and were admitted on equal terms into their confederacy, which has since received the name of the Six Nations. They have had a clergyman settled among them for many years, and Christianity has been voluntarily adopted by them. Their village has some handsome and well-cultivated fg,rms, and a house built for public worship, I Mv^vi.vrov. if HINTS TO 'J^HE TRAVELLER At LEWISTON. It will be the intention of many strangers whoanive at this place, to devote several days to viewing the Falls oiNiagara, the battle grounds in the vicinity, and perhaps in making short excursions in different direc- tions. To those who have leisure, such a course may well be recommended ; and it may almost be a mattef of indifference whether they first visit the American or the British side. The public accommodations are excellent at both places, and the river may be safely crossed at any hour of the day, by a ferry, at the expense of about half a dollar, including the transpor- tation of luggage down and up the steep banks. A staircase is erected near the falls, on the British as well as the American side, to furnish a convenient mode of descending to the foot of the cataract, where the charge is 25 cents for each person. During the pleasant seasons of the year, both places are the resort of great throngs of visiters. Stage coaches also pass up and down on both sides every day at equal rates.. To such, however, as have but a short time to spend in this neighbourhood, it may be strongly recommended to proceed directlj to the British side. The cataract on that side is higher, broader, more unbroken, and generally ackno^vledged to be the noblest part of the scene. The "'"iter may indeed see it to great advan- tage from Goat Island, on the American side, but the view from Table Rock ought by no means to be neg- lected. The finest view from the level of the water below is also afforded on the west 5ide, IP 1^ H r,\.Ll.S 01' JsJAliAlJA. THE FALLS OF mAiiXilX--fro7ritlie Amerkau side. Tlie Hotels are large buildings, ami very well kept by Mr. Whitney, and commodious. The height of the fall on this side is 160 feet per- pendicular, but somewhat broken in several places by tlie projecting rocks. It extends 300 yards to a rock ivhich interrupts it on the brow of the precipice. A narrow sheet appears beyond it, and then comes Goat Island, with a mural precipice. Between this and the other shore is the Grand Crescent, for vhich pee a few pages beyond. There is a bridge to the island, which commands many fine views of the falls, it rests on wooden piers sunk with stones. The Staircase conducts safely to the bottom of the precipice ; and boats may row up near to the cataract. The Sorcerer^s Cave. — A very singular cavern was discovered, in 1825, about half a mile below the falls, which is reached by descending the old Indian ladder, a steep path-way, rendered passable by roots, rocks, &c. rte cave is about 80 yards below the ladder. The way to it is difficult ; the passage is barely large enough to admit a man, and in it are found stalactites, and specimens of something that seems like petrified moss or wood. About 20 feet above is a beautiful spring, issuing from a rock, in a singular rockjr posi- tion ; and there is another cave near by, which is also worthy of a visit. About two miles below the falls, is a Mineral Spring, said to contain sulphuric and muriatic acids, lime, and magnesia. There is a ferry at Lewiston, which is about half a mile across ; but the current is strong on this side, and Ihe eddy sets up with such force on the other, that a boat moves more than double that distance in going over. The passage is not dangcroris, although thu WAITLE Wi' Ul/JiUNbTOWW. 81 waler is much agitated by counter currents and changing whirlpools ; for the ferrymen are taught by their experience to manage the boat with care^ and not only to take advantage of the currents, but to avoid all the rough places, ripples, and whirlpools. The banks here have an appearance very wild and striking* The rocks are a dark red sandstone, with thi» strata of a more clayey character and a lighter colour^ occurring every few feet. Queefistown, on the Canada side of the river, is a small town, uninteresting except so far as regards its natural situation, and some martial events of which it has been the theatre. THE BATTLE OF QUEENSTOWN. Duriir«' the late war between the United States and Great Britain, in 1812, while Gen. Van Rensselaer was stationed at Lewiston, he formed the bold design of taking Qjueenstown ; and in spite of the difficulty of ascending the steep banks, and the fortifications which had been thrown up for its defence, before day- light on the morning of October 13th, he embarked his troops at the ferry, and passed over the river under cover of a battery. As the accessible points on the coast were strictly watched, and defended by batteries of some strength, the place selected for the attack was the lofty and precipitous bank just above. Two or three small batteries had been erected on the brow, the remains of which are still visible ; but this did not discourage the undertaking. The landing was effected, and in spite of the difficulty of the ascent, the heights were surmounted, and the Americans com- menced a brisk action on the summit. Gen. Brock, who was at a distance, hearing the guns, hastened to the spot ; but under a tree near the precipice was killed by a chance shot. The Americans remained in possession of the heights a few hours^ but were ^hen obliged to recross the river. H f^ 82 r\ tALLS iJr jNlAliAliA. TlIU iMoNUMENT TO GENERAL BkocK Was raised by the British government in the year 1824; and the remains of Gen. Brock and Col. M*Do- naJd, his aid, have since been deposited there. Its height is 126 feet ; and the view from the top is very fine and extensive, the base being 350 feet above the river. In clear weather, the eye embraces not only the river below, and the towns ot Lewiston and Queens- town, but those of Newark and Fort Niagara, at the entrance of Lake Ontario, York harbour, loungstownr part of the route of the Welland canal, a vast level tract of country covered with a uniform forest, and the horizon, formed by the distant lake itself. The monument is built of a coarse gray limestone, containir^ enchrinites, &;c. of which the hill is formed, and contains some shells and other organic remains. The old park for artillery, and the marks of various "works, will be observed in different parts of the heights. Prom QueenstOL<))7i to jXiagara Falls is seven miles, over a level, sandy road. The country between Niagara and York, U. C, is considered the most beautiful, most fertile, and best cultivated part of the province. It will therefore be worthy of the traveller's attention, as soon as the desired improvements and accommodations shall have been introduced. The scenery is alternately wild and pleasing ; and the rapid progress of population, the arts, and business created by the Welland canal and its collateral works, which promise such success, will soon render this tract of country a favourite part of the tour of the northern traveller. A free navigation for the largest vessels used here, between Lake Erie and Ontario, must produce the most important results. Manufactories are already in operation in different places; and the inexhaustible water power of the canal will multiply them to any desirable degree. 4.0,000 or 50.000lhs. of raw wool are now annually 1 ALLS OF MAtJARA. 8:5 t:oiibumed in this region by the manufacturers of narrow cloth and satinetts ; ancf most of the paper used in Upper Canada is made at Crook's Mill, in West Flamboroueh. Ancient Tumuli. Near Sir P. Maitland's (four miles from Q^eenstown) is a ran^e of rising ground, which overlooks the country and lake for a great distance. Near the top a quantity of human bones were recently discovered oy the blowing down of an old tree. A great number of skeletons were found on digging, with Indian beads, pipes, &c. and some conch-shells, shaped apparently for musical instruments, placed under seve- ral of the heads. Other perforated shells were found, such as are said to be known only on the western coast of the continent, within the tropics. There were also found brass or copper utensils, &c. and the ground looks as if it had been defended with a palisade. The Wfiirlpoolf sometimes called the Devil's Hole, cannot be seen without leaving the road and going to the bank. The rocks are about 260 feet above the water ; they form a deep basin, and the water is ex- tremely agitated. A leisurely walk the whole distance, near the river, may please the admirer of nature ; as the high and rocky cliffs which form the banks on both sides pre- sent a continued succession of striking scenes. Although the surface of the ground frequently indi- cates the passage of water in some long past period* the whole road is much elevated above the river, and owing to this circumstance the traveller is disappointed at not getting a sight of the cataract from a distance, as it remains concealed by the banks, until he has ap- proached very near. It frequently happens, also, that the roar of the cataract is not perceived before reaching the inn ; for the intervening bank intercepts the sound so much, that the noise of the wheels is sometimes sufficient to drown it entirely. Yet, strange as it may appear, the inhabitants declare, that at the same time it may very probably be heard on thp shore of Lake Ontario, u FALLS OF MAOAKA. THE FALLS OF NIAGARA-/roni fhe British siiU. There are two large Inns or Hotels on the Canadian side of the river, both situated as near the falls as could be desired. That kept by Mr. Forsyth stands on what ought strictly to be called the upper bank, for that elevation appears to have once formed the river's shore. This is the larger house ; the galleries and windows in the rear command a fine view of the cataract) although not an entire one, and overlook the rapids and river for several miles above. The other house is also commodious, and commands the samo scene from a different point of view. Following a footpath through the pasture behind Forsyth's, the stranger soon finds himself on the steep brow of the second bank, and the mighty cataract of Niagara suddenly opens beneath him. A path leads away to the left, down the bank, to the verge of the cataract: and another to the right, which offers a drier walk, and presents a more agreeable and varied scene. The surface of the rocks is so perfectly flat near the falls, and the water descends so considerably over the rapids iust before it reaches the precipice, that it seems a wondfer that the place where you stand is not over- flown. Probably the water is restrained only by the direction of the current, as a little lateral pressure would be sufficient to flood the elevated level beside it, where, there can be no question, the course of the river once lay. Table Rock is a projection a few yards from the cataract, which commands a fine view of this mag- nificent scene. Indeed, it is usually considered the finest point of view. The height oi the fall on this iside is said to be 174 feet perpendicular; and this height the vast sheet of foam preserves unbroken, quite round the Grand Crescent, a distance, it is esti- mated, of 700 y^rds. Captain Basil Hal) and Mr., lALLS OF .NIAGARA. 86 Mr., Thompson measured the distance from Table Rock to Termination Hock in 1827, and lound it to be 153 feet. Goat Island divides the cataract, and just beyond it stands an isolated rock. The fall on the American side is neither so high, so wide, nor so unbroken ; yet, if compared with any thing else but the Crescent, would be regarded with emotions of unequalled sublimity. The breadth is 900 feet, the height 160, and about two-thirds the distance to the bottom the sheet iz broken by projecting rocks. A bridge built from the American siae connects Iris or Goat Island and the main land, though invisible from this spot ; and the inn on the same side, in Niagara, is seen a little way from the river. The Biddle Staircase was con- structed from Iris Island to the base of the precioice below, in 1829, at the expense of Nicholas Biadle Esq. of Philadelphia, to aflford a new point of view to visiters, which is greatly admired. The construction of this staircase is said to have opened one of the finest fishing places in this part of the Union. The water there is the resort of numerous fish which come up from Lake Ontario and are stopped b}r the falls. The island is 185 feet above the gulf; the first 40 feet of the descent is by stone steps, the next 88 by a spiral wooden staircase, and the remaining 80 feet by stone steps, in three directions. It may be recommended to the traveller to visit this place as o.' .^n as he can, and to view it from every neighbouring point ; as every change of light exhibits it under a diflferent and interesting aspect. The rain- bows are to be seen, from this side, only in the after- noon; but at that time the clouds of mist, which are continually rising from the gulf below, often present them in the utmost beauty. ?,. • Dr. Dwight gives the following estimates, in his travels, of the quantity of water which passes the cataract of Niagara. The river at the ferry is 7^ fur- longs wide, and on an average 25 feet deep. The current probably runs six miles an hour ; but supposinj; >p^F"i^»r"w^w»f»i^»^i'P«^p«^fmf^WPt»f^pr- u VAU^ Utb' Z^'IAGAUA. K-: it to bo onlj 5 miles, the quantity that passes the i'ali.H in an hour, is more than 85 millions of tons avoirdupois ; if we suppose it to be 6, it will be more than IQQ millions ; and in a day would be 2400 millions of tons. The noise, it is said, is sometimes heard at York, 50 miles. A carriage road has been lately made to the ferry. . V. ff / . The Rapids * ^ f^' iu ^ . J-y '■- be^in about half a mile above the cataract; and, although the breadth of the river might at first make them appear of little importance, a nearer inspection will convince the stranger of their actual size, and the terrific danger of the passage. The inhabitants of the neighbourhood regard it as certain death to get onc^ ipvolved in them ; and that not merely because all escape from the cataract would be hopeless, but because the violent force of the water among the rocks in the channel, would instantly dash the bones of a man in pieces. Instances are on record of persons being carried down by the stream ; but no one is known to have ever survived. Indeed, it is very rare that the bodies are found ; as th^ depth of the gulf below the cataract, and the tumultuous agitation of the eddies, whirlpools, and counter currents, render it difficult for any thine once sunk to rise a&rain ; white the general course of the water is so rapid, that it is soon hurried far down the stream. The large loffs which are broui^ht down in great numbers during the spring, bear sufficient testimony to these remarks. Wild ducks, geese. Sac. are frequently precipitated over the cataract, and jBcenerally reappear either dead or with their lees or wings broken. Some say that water fowl kvoid the place when able to escape, but that the ice on ike shores of the river above often prevents them from obtaining food, and that they are carried down from mere inability to fly ; whije others assert that they are ilomet}flgie.s seen volpntari^ riding amon^ the ra|Mds; Mte^tMMUMMMMJMUk I r 5s the lalJ.H oirdupois ; than lOQ ns of tons. York, 60 he (eny. let; and, rst make ispection »and the itants of h to get because ^«S8, but be rocks >raman « being lown to hat the low the eddies, cult for reneral lurried "h are gr» bear ducks, taract, * Ws >id the >n ^e from ifron* jyare Jfids, I^IA (^AHA, FliOM r.KlI.O W . 1. liAl'IlW Ol' rsl.VliAKA. jv. and diicv descending hall way down ihc cataract, lakinj? wing, and returning to repeat their dangerous amusement. In 1828, a smatl boat passed in safety among the islands below the bridge on the United State? side; but in October of that year, two men were lost in a boat which was carried down by the ice. The most sublime scene is presented to the observer when he views the cataract from below ; and there he may have an opportunity of goiog under the cataract. This scene is represented in the jplate^ To render the dc cent practicable, a spiral staircase has been formed a little way from Table Rock, supported by a tall mast; and the stranger descends wi^thout fear, because his view is confined. On reaching the bottom, a rough path among the rocks winds along at the foot of the precipice, although the heaps of loose stones which have fallen down, keep it at a considerables height above the water. A large rock lies on the very brink of the river, about 15 feet long and 8 feet thick, which you may climb up by means of a ladder, and enjoy the best central view of the falls any where to be found. This rock was formerly a part of the projection above, and fell, about seven years ago, with a tremendous roar. It had been observed by Mr. Forsyth to be in a very psecarious situation, the day before, and he had warrjed the strangers at his house not to venture near it. A lady and gentleman, however, had been so bold as to take their stand upon it near evening, to view the cataract ; and in the night they heard tne noise of its fall, which shook the house like an earthquake. A large piece of rock, near the centre of the great horseshoe of Niagara Falls, broke off in the summer of 1 829, and fell into the gulf with a crash that was heaxu s^everal miles o§. In proceeding nearer to the sheet of falling water, the path leads far under the excavated bank, which in one place forms a roof that overhangs about 40 feet. The vaf t rohimn of watpr continually pouripG: over thv if sa FALLS OP IVL/IUAUA. precipice, {)roduces violent whirls in the air ; and tljc spray is driven out with such force, that no one can approach to the ed^e of the cataract, or even stand a few moments near it, without being drenched to the skin. It is also very difficult to breathe there ; so that persons with weak lungs would act prudently to con- tent themselves with a distant view, and by no means to attempt to go under the cataract. Those who are desirous of exploring this tremendous cavern, should attend very carefully to their steps, and not allow themselves to be agitated by the sight or the sound of the cataract, or to be blinded by the strong driving showers in which they will be continually involved ; as a few steps would plunge them into tb'i tenible abyss which receives the falling river. In the summer of 1827, a schooner, called the Mi- chigan, which was found to be unfit for the navigation of Lake Erie, being of too great a depth of waler, was towed by a steamboat to the end of Grand Island, and then by a row boat under the coLimand of Capt. Rough, to the margin of the rapids, where she was abandoned to her Tate. Thousands of persons had assembled to witness the descent. A number of wild animals had been inhumanly placed on her deck, confined, to pass the cataract with her. She passed the first fall of the rapids in safety ; but struck a rock at the second, and lost her masts. There she remained an instant, until the current jrned her round and bore her away. A bear here leaped overboard and swam to the shore. The vessel soon filled and sunk, so that only fier upper works were afterward visible. She went over the cataract almost without being seen, and in a few moments the basin was perceived all scat- tered with her fragments, which were very small. A cat and a goose were the only animals found alive below. In October, 1829, the schooner Superior was towed into the current and abandoned ; but she struck on a rock about the middle of the river, and there re- mained. The notable jumper. Sam Patch, lenped. the •llATTLi; OF CUllTEWA. ;jif loUowing day, from a ladder, 125 feet high, into llic gulf, and escaped unhurt. The Burjving SpRi^fG. About half a mile above the falls, and within a few feet of the rapids in Niagara river, is a remarkable Burning Spring. A house has been erected over it, into which admission is obtained for a shilling. The water, which is warm, turbid, and surcharged with sulphuretted hydrogen gas, rises in a barrel which has been placed in the ground, and is constantly in a state of ebullition. The barrel is covered, and the gas escapes only through a copper tube. On bringir^ a candle withm a little distance of it, the gas takes nre, and continues to bum with a bright flame until blown out. By leaving the house closed and the fire extin- guished, the whole atmosphere within explodes on entering with a candle. While on the Canada side of the falls, the visiter may vary his time very agreeably, by visiting the village of Chippewa and Lundy's Lane, in this vici- nity ; which, during the late war with Great Britain, were the scenes of two sharp contests. The Battle op Chippewa. In July, 1814,, the British and American arniie.s being near each other. Gen. Ripley ordered Gen. Scott to make an advance on Chippewa, on the 3d of July, with Capt. Towson's division of artillery ; and tfie enemy's pickets were soon forced to retire across the bridge. Gen. Ripley came up in the afternoon and encamped with Gen. Scott's advance. The stranger may be gratified by examining the field of these operations, by going to Chippewa vil- lage, about two miles above Forsyth's. The Ameri? can encampment of July 23d is in the rear of a tavern HPar the road, about a mile bevond ChippewR. ^^3 1 < fj tiU FALLS OF KIAGAKA. On the 6th, after some sharp shooting, the Indians were discovered ah. jst in the rear of the American camp. At this moment, Gen. Porter arrived »/ith his volunteers and Indians. Gen. Brown immediately directed them to enter the woods and effectually scour them. Gens. Brown, Scott, and Ripley were at the white house, in advance, reconnoitring^. Gen. Por- ter's corps had almost debouched from the woods opposite Chippewa, when the whole British force had crossed the Chippewa bridge, and Gen. Scott ad- vanced, and Gen. Ripley was in readiness to support. In a few minutes, the British line was discovered formed and rapidly advancing — their ridit (the Royal Scots) upon the woods, and their left (the prince regent's) on the river, with the king's own for their reserve. Their object was to gain the bridge across the creek in front of the encampment, which, if done, would have com- pelled the Americans to retire. Gen. Brown, fearing a flank movement of the enemy through the woods on the left, directed Gen. Ripley not to advance until he gave him orders. Meanwhile, Gen. Scott, under a most tremendous fire from the enemy's artillery, crossed the brieve, and formed his line. The British orders were to give one volley at a distance, and im- mediately charge. But such was the warmth of our musketry that they could not withstand it. At this moment. Gen. Brown sent orders to Gen. Ripley to make a movement through the woods upon the ene- my's right flank. With the 21st regiment he passed a ravine in his front, where the men had to wade up to their chins, and advanced as rapidly as possible. But before he commenced filing from the woods into the open land under the enemy's batteries, they had been completely broken by Gen. Scott's brigade, and threw themselves across the Chippewa bridge, which they broke down. Although the Americans were not able to cross the creek, the British thought proper to evacuate Chippewa vervipfecipitately. and to retreat towards Queenstown. ini S5 1^- BATTLE or BKlDGEWAXEli. ,91 the wa vn-. Ill tills affair the British loss, in killed, wounded, and missing, was 514, and the American loss 328. Nothing of importance occurred after this until the S5th of the same month, the date of » The Battle of Bridgbwateb, or Lundy's Lane. The principal scene of this hard-foueht and bloody action is about a mile from the Falls of Niagara, at an obscure road, called Lundy's Lane. Comfortable accommodations are oflFered there, at the inn of Mr. Chysler. Since their retreat from Chippewa, the ene- my had received reinforcements of troops from Lord Wellington's armjr in Spain ; and on the 25th of July encamped on a hill, with the design of attacking the American camp the next morning. At 6 in the eve- ning, Gen. Brown ordered Gen. Scott to advance and attack them, which was immediately done ; and in con- junction with Gen. Ripley the attack was commenced in an hour. The British were much surprised at see- ing the approach of their enemy at this hour, not having discovered them until they left the woods and began to march across the open level fields seen from Forsyth's Hotel, and about a quarter of a mile to the Jeft.^ The following letter, written by a surgeon of one of the American regiments, the day after the engage- ment, contains some interesting particulars : "The enemy had collected their whole force in the peninsula, and were reinforced by troops from Lord Wellington's army, just landed from Kingston. For two hours the two hostile lines were within twenty yards of each other, and so frequently intermingled, that often an officer would order an enemy's platoon. The moon shone bright ; but part of our men being dressed like the Glengarian regiment caused the de- ception. They frequently charged, and were as often driven back. Our regiment, under Colonel Miller, was ii IM.i.s or M \Ki\\i \ i»nU htl lv»>loviu Iho HrllKli Imttrry . W*' «hai>^iMl, aiul to\>k t>> < I)' i>iivt> ol' (lu> t>iu»niyN Ciumon. \Vt» k«pl iuh ^oss^ion o(* tht' ii^nuiiul iinti liutnoi) until 1? oVIock »( niuM. wIhmi wo nit Irll l>»ok iiu>h> tit \ii two inll<'.i. 'i1iU was (liMio t(> Nrnih* our ('tuu|). wliicli nii^lil n||»t^j'wi;o huvt^ boi'u nttncktMl in iho wwt. Our Iioi-som Uv\\\)i: nuwl ol thoni kilUd. luul llioro hv'm^ no ropos U\ \\\v |>ioooj«, wi» p»t otV but two or thn>i'. 'V\\v uumi w(Mi> so oxr.rssivoly liitijijutul thi\y oouhl mt dtup. tluMu. Wo lost t)no \\\vvt' {)( ortnndu, wliioh was t(M» nuicli julvj^nciul* evory nmnhoin^' ?»li(»t thnt luuhhni);o <»f it, but two. S(>vor»l t>i' our (>niss«>ns won' blown up l»y thoii rookots, wbjob (liil scmuo Jmnry, nnd tlo- piivod i>ur cur.non o{ ammunition. Tno lint^M vvoro M> nour tbtU cunnon oouM not bo usod witb juivnntni^o." 'I'ho l^iitish lost, in killoil, woundrd, tuui prixonoiN, f'Tti ; ami tbo Amorioans tlRO. WKLLANU CANAL. It n\av woll bo iHH'on^ntfmbul totbo ti'a\ollor lo ik- voto a littlo time to visiting: this nt^w, imporl:mt anj:hly intoit*stii\^ work, wbirh can bo tUuio by tlioso wno have a short tinu* to sparo. liako vossols nn^ iunvjitlor io ij:o uo the VVolland or Chippt»wa rivor to tho canal; ami the visitor at Niaj^ara will bo bul about Ji or 10 miles t\\>ni somi> parts o( it. As it may bo pK\>*mniMl tlmt a travollor, on a lour like tho pn sent, will o( course lay asiiio all i)rivat<' and ovon rmtional tooliui^'s, sut!ici«MitIy to admii'ti what is great in the enterprise and arts ot' a noii»;hbourin!:; country, a specimen of human skill and incuistry like the Wellanii Canal may be expected to interCvSt ihosn into whose hands this little volume may fall. Tlie impix>vement of Upper Canada has had to en- counter gTeat obstacles in tiie climate, the wildm\ss ol tlie coimtry, the > icinity of a land under a different system of government, the lai'ge reserves of soil for !fTe sonix»rt of the clers-v. (omv?eventh of the whole. ^' Wlill.li/iMil 4'Al\Ai.. w:i ;ivntr uiid u uciiioi'aI Witril ol iiitrlliK^diirr and riiiiM'printi^ ainoiiM; (liti iiiliiihiluiilM. Sniiic oi (litiMi linvii Imumi iiI I'TAily ill u roiiNidnriililn (ItfM^ioii NiiihiouiihHl, luiil ntr iikdiy lo lid nIiII ruitlirr ovdiroiiir, hy llio iiiuoiiritKn- indiilN (»ll(tnii| Ity iho iiiotluM' roiinlry, Ihr* iiitioilurlioit «)1 ht'iriitilir (Ml^^ilM1l*|-M iind IiiiiiIn hy llin enod to navigatiun in Nov(»ml)er, U{y*J, precinely live years after its coininenccment. The work he^in» at Port Ma it- land on Grand kiver, ahout 40 iriiles from Hufl'alo, where it Ih raised eight ieet above the level oi Lake Erie, and proceeds, with only descending locks, to Port Oalhousio, the water being taken from (jlrarid lliver, above a dam erected for the purpose, at the falls, five miles from its mouth. 'JVavellers who have it in ffieir I ¥^ 94 FALLS OF jNIAUAUA. power should not fail to begin their voyage here, asJ the whole work is worthy^ orattention ; but the lower half of it presents the chief assemblage of interesting objects. The whole canal was nearly completed about the beginning of 1839, when the sliding of the banks at the Deep Cut, near Lake Ontario, made it necessary to make some alterations in the plan. From Lake Erie, across the Wainfleet Marsh, to the Welland or Chippewa River, the level of that lake was at first preserved. It has since been raised five feet. The Welland was to be communicated with by means of two locks of six feet lift, and to serve as a part of the navigable route for nine miles, to within three-quarters of a mile of the Deep Cut. The Deep Cut was to have been dug down to the level of the Welland ; and the excavations had already been nearly completed when the accident occurred. The canal is now car- ried across the marsh at a level five feet above that of Lake Erie, to Welland River at a j)oint five miles and a half below the place before designed ; across that river on an aqueduct, which is high enough to permit the passage of vessels ; and then along the northern bank, to the Deep Cut, at the northern end of which it descends by two locks. Beyond that point the ori- ginal plan is preserved. The Grand River, at the dam, is nine chains across; and the canal beginning at Broad Creek, near its mouth, and two miles from the mouth of Grand River, proceeds in a perfectl)' iraight line ; and a communication is open with Welland River by locks, at the aqueduct and at the Deep Cut. Port Maitland is capable of receiving a great number of vessels such as navigate the Lake, for which the Canal is calculated. The neighbouring part of the lake is free from ice earlier in tne spring than that near Buffalo ; and it is believed by the Ca- nadians, that the access to the mouth of the Welland canal will be open about four or five weeks earlier W£LLAND' CANAL. 95 every year. This of course would be a great advan- tage. It is not, however, to be expected that the New- York Canal will suffer any injury from the present work. The business will soon be greater than can be done upon it ; and will increase with ^reat rapidity, particularly after the opening of the Ohio Canal. Mainfleet Marsh, This is a tract of swampy land, elevated only about eight feet above the level of Lake Erie, and extending from its shore to Welland or Chippewa river. The canal passes it by a thorough cut ten miles long, and varying from ten to sixteen feet in depth, communicating with many ponds and pools. This is the depth desig^ned to cut this part of the canal, since it was determined, in l«28, to draw the supply from Grand River, and raise the summit level several feet, on account of the caving in at the Deep Cut. It is a fact well established by scientific surveyors, that only a narrow ledge of rocks occurs between the two lakes, and that, if tnis were removed, the soil is generally of so loose a nature, that a current of water mi^ht soon wear away a deep channel, drain off Lake £rie, and cause a tremendous inundation. This barrier will be seen at the Mountain Ridge, on the northern part of the Canal, where the descent is above 300 feet. From Lake Erie to that place the stranger will observe that he proceeds on an almost uninterrupted level. The continuation of the Moun- tain Ridge forms the Falls of Niagara, and the eleva- tion of ground at Lockport, surmounted by the noble works at that place. It runs for many miles, present- ing towards the east an irregular Ime of precipice, with salient and re-entering angles, like an immense fortification. Most of the streams which fall over it pour down the ravines thus formed. An experienced and capable engineer. Judge Geddes, first published this fact in the Journal of Sci- ence and the Arts, and stated that there appeared to be every reason to suppose one of these natural ravines received the Niagara river at the Falls ; and that the •M 9ii FALLfi OF NIAGAllA. apparent attrition of the rocks for a g^eat distance ])etow, and the general belief of the cataract having retired for miles, are not to be con6ded in. The Welland River ^ a very sluggish stream, was to 1)0 used for ten miles, being entered by a lock of eight feet lift, a towing path being formea along its bank. It was, however, determined, in 1828, to cross this stream by an aqueduct. This river has a course of 30 or 40 miles, between the two lakes, but nearly on a level with Lake Erie, and empties into Niagara River about two miles above the falls. It was intended that vessels passing the sloop lock at Black Rock, should enter the canal by this route ; and the Canal Company were authorized to make a towing path along the Ni- agara and the Welland Rivers. Its breadth is from three to four chains. The Deep Cut* We approach a part of the canal in which the greater t labour and expense were re- quired. It extends one mile and three quart(»rs, and required the excavation of 1,477,700 cubic yards of earth. The excavation is now to an average depth of 45 feet. The ground is undulating, and the greatest depth is 56 feet. The surface suddenly rises to the height of 38 feet ; and 106 chains further, to 66 feet 6 inches. Thence it descends until, at the end of the Deep Cut, it is only 30 feet. This ground has been excavated, and the level of the canal preserved, by the greatest work of the kind in America, excepting perhaps the aqueduct on the plain of Mexico. The earth, to 12 or 18 feet below the surface, was clay mixed with a little sand. Below that was a hard blue clay, frequently requiring the pickaxe. The earth dug out near the middle of the cut was raised up the banks, which are 160 feet apart at the deepest places, as the nature of the soil required a gradual slope. In 1828, however, great masses sunk down again into the canal, so that the ex- cavations are made to a level 17 feet above that at first designed. L ^VELLAND CANAL. yy Lock No. 1, of the Mountain Ridge, is 4 miles and 23 chains fVom the Deep Cut. The intervening sur- face is undulating, and t-ne canal passes alternate ra- vines and ridges. Bv damming the former a little way from the line on the left, numerous pools or reser- voirs (taken together, two miles in length) were formed, which would have been very useful for the locks. Near the brow of the Mountain Ridge is an eleva- tion, which required an excavation nearly 20 feet deep for 20 chains. On this level are four twin bridges, with butments 40 feet asunder, corresponding with the breadth of all the locks westward of this place, which are 40 feet by 125, and able to admit steamboats up to this point, either trora Grand River or Niagara River, by the Welland. Locks Nos. 1, 3, 3, 4, are in a ravine 52 chains in length, which introduces the stranger to the most re- markable scene of the kind in the world. The Mountain Ridge. Within the extent of a mile and 55 chains are 17 locks of 22 feet by 100, which overcome nearly the whole elevation of Lake Erie above Ontario. The canal winds along the face of the descent, bending to the left and the right, to give room for reservoirs between the locks, necessary for a convenient supply of water. None of the locks are less than 30 yards apart. This is the only part of the route where rocks were to be excavated, and the amount of rock removed here was 70,000 cubic yards. At the foot of this long and steep descent the canal enters a ravine, which extends two and a half miles through 12 locks, between high banks, to St, Catharine's. The descent from the top of the ridge to this place is 322 feet. Though a small vil- lage, St. Catharine's has already become a place of considerable importance. To Lake Ontario from this place, five miles, there are four locks, 32 feet by 125, and one of ten feet lift. The route runs chiefly along the valley of the principal branch of the Twelve Mil© Creek. 1 2 u. IP 1 ALLS OF rtlAUAKA. Port Dnlhousie, the harbour of the Wclland Canal on Lake Ontario, is protected by two fine piers, run out 200 or 350 yards, nearly at the angle of storm, ivhidi is about 80 decrees west : the eastern overlap- ping the western, with a return pier, which is better than the break- water ori^;inaliy proposed. The ground was here found to be a brown alluvion, well 6tted ibr the driving of piles. A large harbour for boats, and a timber pond for rafts, have been formed by damming the mouth of Twelve Mile Creek, which throws the water back over an area of 500 acres. A waste weir lets off the surplus water without allowing it to enter the harbour, so that there is no current formed through it, and no danger is incurred of forming a bar at its mouth. A locK of. five feet lift raises vessels from the harbour to the basin. It has been ascertained that a branch canal might be cut on a dead level, and at the expense of only 20,000/. from somewhere near the foot of the Mountain Ridge to Niagara, nine miles ; but no decisive measures have yet been adopted. It would cross Ten, Four, Two, and One Mile Creeks. The Canada Land Company, by whom this magni- ficent work has been planneu ana accomplished, is a corporation, under the parliament of the colony, with a capital of ^600,000, of which a large portion was supplied by individual subscriptions, partly in New- York and England. The government of Upper Ca- nada subscribed j{200,000 and lent j^ J 00,000. That of Lower Canada subscribed g 100,000. The British government have granted them one-ninth of the whole cost of the work, and 13,000 acres of land on the route, west of Welland River. Public stores, &c. are to be transported on the canal free of duty. This canal admits larger vessels than any other in America, except the Delaware and Chesap)eake Ca- nal in Pennsylvania, for which see the index. The locks are of wood, but built on the most approved principles. The common dimensions are 100 feet ioi sel acl bel thi quj S( EH an( natj wal am TOWN OF GVELHI. 09 ion^, 22 wide, and 8 deep ; and are calculated for ves- sels of from 100 to 135 tons burthen. The larpcest schooners heretofore mei\ on the lakes, are stated to be not more than 90 feet long, 20 wide, with a bur* then of from 60 to 90 tons. Many of the locks re* quired puddling: and flagging:. The lockage on this canal being all on one de- scent, there never can be any want ot water : Lake Erie being on the summit level. The nunierous ponds and pools are however convenient reservoirs. The nature of the work is such as to allow deepening the water by merely building the locks so much bigoer, and raisinff the dam over Welland River. Men of science in the branches of engineering which relate (o the construction of canals, have spoken with approbation, and frequently admiration, of the modes adopted on the line of the Welland Canal : the manner of removing earth from deep cuttings: the Elans of the wooden Jocks, paddle gates, draw- ridges, kc. The town ofGitelph is a creation of the ycir 1827 ; it was laid out and settled under the direc^tii^i of the Canada Land Company ; and a village has suddenly sprung up in the midst of the wilderness. The Sem^ nary was founded the first year of its existence, and tbere have been built the Company's office, of stone, 192 feet square, a church, and schoolhouse. This place is the central settlement on a tract of the Com- pany's lands In the Gore District, called the Town- ship of Guelph, containing 48,000 acres of Crown re- serves for the Six Nations. The Clergy Reserves are on the N. E. of it, beyond which are "Flamboro' and Beverly. The township of Waterloo is S. S. W. of Guelph ; and probably the wealthiest fanning town* ship in the province. Guelph Township has a soil of black, fertile, sandy loam, bearing beech, maple, elm, bass, asli, cherry, some pine, cedar, and hemlock. The surface is irregular, and the streams swift. The town is on the river Speed. 12 miles irom its confluence " iOU FALLS OF ^lAiiAUA. with Grand River, 6 from Waterloo, 14 from Gait, 3«l by the present road from Ancaster, and 25 from Lake Ontario. A fine straigjht road, 8 rods wide, is to be opened in that direction. Rivers run from this town into lakes Huron, Simcoe, Erie, and Ontario ; and the Canada Company intend to render them all navigable if possible. Goderich is a town lately laid out at the mouth of the Red, or Goderich River ; to which a road was making in 1828, from Guelph, by the government, and Jots of 100 ^cres oftered for sale. Burlington. The bay is remarkably fine ; it is shel- tered from every wind, contains 15,000 acres, and is 25 feet deep. The fort on the heights is very strong and commanding. A lar^e fleet might lie under its protection. It is proposed to make a graving dock in Grindstone Creek, by damming it, under the guns of the fort. An artificial entrance has been made. DundaSf at the head of Burlington Bay, is a flourish- ing place, and rising in importance. A road was in construction to this place from Guelph in 1828. Improvements projected in Canada. Among the most recent projects for internal improvement in Ca- nada, is that of a canal from Lake Huron to the Bay of Quinte. This would open a communication at a distance from the frontier of the Unjied States, by which, in time of war, goods, military stores, muni- tions, &c. might be transported without the risks to which they would be exposed on the present routes. The engineers employed by the British government state that there are broken links formed by Simcoe, Cameron, Pigeon, and Front Lakes, which might be connected without any great difficulty in one entire chain of water communication. The hne migut touch at the Marmora Iron Works, and pass throu^ the new "settlements near Rice Lake and the River Trent, which are flourishing. The population of Upper Ca- nada V as iislieved to amount to 200,000 in 1828. It has been proposed to make canals for sloop navi- TUB WESTERN LAKES. 101 gation from Prescott to Montreal. The advantages of such works, taken into view with the Welland Canaly are easy to estimate. Before, the transportation of 1000 staves from Lake Erie to Montreal cost ^90. If all these canals were made, the cost would be reduced to ^50. Sloops carryin§: 6000 staves could make six trips a year, and ^ain jJ^lBOO. A barrel of flour which paid 6s. for that distance, would pay only 3^. A ton of merchandise now costs £,4 5s. for transportation between Prescott and Montreal, and would then cost only £1 7*. lorkf the capital of Upper Canada, is a place of considerable size. The public buildings make little figure. The harbour is very fine, protected by defen> sive works on Gibraltar Point. Kmg's College is of recent institution, and bears the style and privileges of a university. The governor is chancellor, the Lord Bishop of Qjjebec visiter, and the Archdeacon of York president. The chancellor appoints professors. No religious tests are required except for aegises in divinity, as at Oxford and Cambriage. A road is making to Guelph, 47 miles, and on to Goderich, less than 100 further. THE WESTERN LAKES. Ontario is 180 miles long, 40 miles wide, 500 feet deep ; and its surface is computed at 218 feet above the elevation of tide water at Three Rivers, 270 miles below Cape Vincent. £ne is 270 rniles long, 60 miles wide, 200 feet deep ; and its surface is 565 feet above tide water at Albany. It was said, in 1823, to be between 2 and 3 feet higher thar a few years before, having gradually risen. Huron is 250 miles long, 100 miles average breadth, 900 feet deep ; and its surface is nearly 595 feet above the tide water. Michigan is 400 miles long, 50 wide, depth un- known ; elevation the same as Huron. lU n u w : 1; ill W2 FALLS OF MIAOAllA. Green Bay is about 1C5 miles long, 20 miles wide, depth unknown; elevation the same as Huron and Michigan. Lake Superior is 459 miles lon^, 109 miles average width, 900 feet deep ; and its surface 1048 feet above the tide water. Hence the bottom of Lake Erie is not as low as the foot of Niagara Falls ; but the bottom of each of the other lakes, it will be observed, is lower than the sur- face of the ocean. "Lake Superior is the head fountain, the grand reser- voir of the mighty volume. After making a semi- circle of tive degrees to the south, accommodating and enriching one of the most fertile and interesting sec- tions of the globe, it meets the tide a distance of 2000 miles from its source, and 5000 from the extreme point of its estuary, on the Atlantic coast." xhe lakes have a periodica! rise once in twelve years. It occurred in 1815 and 1827. The Ferry across Niagara river is about half a mile below the Falls, and may be crossed at ai:7 hour in the day, without danger, notwithstanding the ra- pidity of the current. The descent from the bank is so steep, that it has been n-^cessary to build a. stair- case. To Bvffalo en the Canada, side 28i miles. To Chippewa, 2 miles. Waterloo, (Fort Erie,) .... 16 (Over the ferry to Black Rock, 25 cts. each passenger.) Buffalo, n Opposite Buffalo, in Waterloo, are the remains of Fort Erie, a fortress of great consequence in the late war. There was a strong wall surrounded with in- trenchments reaching to the lake. The remains of the British camp are also seen, and the trees are still wounded vv ith shot. Battle of Erie. On the 17th of September, 1814, a severe action was fought at a little distance from Fort Erie, when a part of the American garrison, 1000 regu- JtKMAi{K3 ON LPPKR CANAJJA. 10« iais and 1000 militia, made a sortie, and took the British works, about 500 yards in front of their line. The British had two batteries on their left, which annoyed the fort, and were about opening a third. Their camp was about two miles distant, sheltered by a wood : their works were garrisoned with one-third of their infantry^, from 12 to 1500 men, and a de- tachment of artillery. Gen. Porter with the volunteers,- Col. Gibson with the riflemen, and Maj. Brooks with the 33d and 21st li^ht infantry, and a few dismounted dragoons, were '^er ^'om the extreme left of the American position, i y .. i^dssage cut through the woods towards the ene- my's right ; and Gen. Miller was stationed in the ra- vine between the fort and the enemy's batteries ; while Gen. Ripley bad a reserve under the bastions. A little before 3 P. M. the left columns commenced their attack upon the enemy's right ; and Gen. Miller at the same time pushed forward between Nos. 2 and and 3 of the batteries, broke their line, and took their two blockhouses. Battery No. 1 was soon after de- serted, the guns were spiked, and the magazine of No; 3 was blown up. Gen. Ripley was wounded, and Col. Gibson !dUed. The action lasted about an hour, which g? «; sime for the remaining two-thirds of the enemy's f o 'o march from their camp and partake in it. llic / -r ricans at length retired with prisoners, having succeeJr 1 in their object. The British suf- fered so much, that Lieut. Gen. Drummond broke up iiis camp on the 21st, and retired to his intrenchments behind the Chippewa River. Gemral Remarks on Upper Canada, This exten- sive district has bejcun to increase in population with great r?T^idity, and groat ^xertions are making to intro- duce i • provements of various kinds. The Wclland Canal, \s itch has already been spoken of, promises advantages of great importance to the colonies. Emigration has l^een so much encouraged by the British government, for the peopling of this part of 104 UOUTJi: FKOM NIAGARA 'il'U MOiNTUEAL. their possessions, that great numbers of Irish, Scotch^ and English have come over within a few years. In the seven years preceding 1825, 68,000 emi^i-ants ar- rived at Qjuebec ; in 1825, 9000, and many since. According to Fothergill, there were then, in Upper Canada, 989,294 acres of cultivated land ; grist mills, 304 ; saw mills, 386 ; merchant stores, 394 ; houses, 30,774 ; oxen, 27,644 ; milch cows, 67,000 ; calves, 35,000 ; 290 townships surveyed, containing in all 17 million acres; abou vvi^o millions wild lands; dis* tillers' duty, $46,000, ^ ^ 27.) To Bifffitlo, on the American side, 30| mile$. Tonawanta Creek, where the canal passes, 11 milc''. Black Rock, 10 Buffalo, ., 2^ To Fort Ceorge, 4 miles. Queenstown, t Fort Geoige, . • • 7 [The route from Niagara to Albany and the Springs will be taken up after the route to Montreal.] — Seep, 109. ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO MONTREAT.. 392 miles. Those who have never travelled through the state of New-York, and have leisure to make so circuitous a route, will prefer to go to Buffalo, Lockpoil, or Ro- chester, and take the line of the Erie Canal, the Springs, Lake George, and Lake Champlain, in their way to Montreal. Many, however, will prefer to take the more direct route, which is by the steamboats through hake Ontario, and is performed in about two days. The American boats go from Fort Niagara to Ogdensburgh, keeping towards the southern shore, and I'OUT (^EAESfcE. iU.J to loucliiiig' at the principal ports. The British boats make a few stops, but steer a course very near the middle of the lake, which is th boundary between the two countries : they are usually out of sight of land about twelve hours. There are several high points on the northern shore. The most important are the cliffs of Torento, the Devil's Nose, and the Fifty Mile HilK Route from Niagara to Montreal. There were seven steamboats, in 1828, owned on the British side of Lake Ontario ; the Alciope, Qjueenston, Torento, Sir J. Kempt, Dalhousie, &c. The steamboats go to York in about 4J hours ; stop at Kingston* in about 24 hours from Niagara, and at Prescott in twelve hours more ; thence stage coach to Cornwall ; whence a steamboat, in five hours, brings you to the foot of Lake St. Francis. A steamboat of 69 horse power was built in 1827, lo pass the rapids at Coteau du Lac, and to take passengers to the village of the Cedars, nine miles further than here- tofore by water. From the Cedars to the cascade is in stage coaches, about 16 miles. Thence a steam- boat goes in 4 hours to Lachine ; and thence to Mon- treal a stage coach, which stops at the Exchange CoflFee House. The fare from Prescott to Montreal was J7 — and from Niagara J20 — The additional ex- penses for board amount on the whole journey to about g2|. American Boats. Port Genesee, 72 miles, at the mouth of the Genesee River, is a port of entry and delivery. Here are a custom-house, and the village of Charlotte, in Monroe county. This river rises in Pennsylvania, and runs a gently winding course about 125 miles in the state of *M Kingston^ (U. C) is to be seen the Cataraqui BridEO, where is to be the route between Lake Ontario and the Ottawa River. The (Steamboat Dalhousie, which Arst passed this bridge in 1829, is to be a model tor other Iwats on the route; viz. 78 feet long, 31 feet 4 inch**" wiijp, including tiw wings, draught of water 4 feet. ^1: m ill ii 10G ROUTE FROM ?sIAGARA TO MO.NTRKAL. New- York. It is navigable only four mites from it* mouth, to Carthage, where the banks are hiffh, rocky, and perpendicular ; and there is a fine fall (104 feet, including the rapidsj &c.) about half a mile above. Stage coaches are in waiting for Rochester, six miles. See Carthage, page 64. Great Soaus Bay, 35 m. Here are three bays in succession : Sodus, East, and Port Bays. There are three Islands, and Port Glasgow is at the head of the bay, only 10^ miles from Clyde, on the canal, with a good road to it. Oswego, 28 m. This village is situated at the mouth of Oswego River, and has a good harbour, with ten feet water. Navigation on this river ended half a mile above, except for boats, which went 12 miles further. A very large button-wood tree, 35^ feet in circumference, is seen a mile from the village near the road. This place is likely to oecome one of the most rapid growth and improvement in all the state of New- York. Its prosperity, not being derived directly from the influence of the Erie Canal, but from one of its principal branches, is of a date correspondent with the commencement of the latter work, 1826. (See Sy- racuse,) It was completed in 1828. It joins the Erie Canal at Salina, and will afford an interesting excur- sion either way. From the head of the falls to the village, it leads along the ilv ^r's bank, preserving the elevated level almost to the bruw of the hill over the Lake, and then descends by locks. For the distance of a mile the interval between the canal and the river affords the most Ldvanta^^eous situations for manufac- tories of various descriptions, for which the land was purchased in lots in 1827 at from j^^jSOO to $3,600. Lake vessels can lie on one side of the manufactories and canal boats on the other ; and Congress have ap- propriated 3535,000 for protecting the harbour with piers. The opening of the Welland canal will pro- bably increase the business of the place, which, be- fore these improvements, was out of the way of travel- bACKETT S HAHBOUU . 1U7 lers, except as a point where the steamboats stoppsd. The lake is 70 miles wide opposite Oswego. Fort Oswego, so famous in the history ofthe French and revolutionary wars, stands on the east side of the river. The situation was very advantageous for the command of a large extent of country, as this river is the common outlet of all the interior lakes of the state. While this post was held alternately by the French and English, they could command a great part of the trade with the Five Nations of Indians, who inhabited the country with which it communicated. Fort Oswego is elevated only about 50 feet from the level of the water; and being overlooked by the eminence on which Fort Ontario was afterward erected, was fit only for a defence in early times. A trading house was built here in 1722, and a fort five years after. This was extended in the beginning of the French war of 1755, when Fort Ontario was built. In the following year. General Montcalm came from Canada, and besieged the fortresses with 3000 troops, and two vessels. Fort Ontario was evacuated after one attack; and on the following day, August 14th, Fort Oswego surrendered to the French, with a large quantity of stores, brought at great ex- pense through the wilderness, and 31 cannon, 14 mortars, &c. also two sloops, and about 200 boats. The captors, however, did not think proper to hold the position, but immediately abandoned it. Col. St. Leger attempted to approach Albany by this route in 1777, in order to co-operate with Gen. Burgoyne ; but he was repulsed at Fort Slanwix by Col. VVillet, and obliged to return. In 1814, on the 6th of May, the British attacked the place, and, after a loss of about 100 men, got posses- sion of it, but evacuated it the next day. Sacketfs Harbour, 40 m. Settled in 1801. In the late war, it became an important naval station, and increased very rapidly. It is 8 miles distant from the Jake, on Hounslow Bay. The harbour is divided into :i' i 1. 108 HouTi: nio^ magaka to Montreal. two by a narrow point, and offers great advantages for ship building. A first rate^man-of-war is still un- finished on the stocks, under a shelter, and another at Black River. On the shore are seen the stone Bar- racksf which enclose about ten acres of ground. Cape Fincentt 20 m. The St. Lawrence is here divided by Grand Island. Kingston, in Upper Canada, lies opposite, at the distance of 1 1 miles. Morristawn, This is a small village, 10 miles from Offdensbuigh. The river is a little more than a mile in breadth, and on the opposite side is Brockville. There is a number of rocky islands in the St. Law- rence, and the gentle slope of the land on the New- York shore, adds a great degree of beauty to the scene. General Wilkinson embarked at this place in 1813. Ogdenshurgh, formerly Oswegatchie. This is the end of the navigation, and here the steamboat stops. The village is pretty, contains some large stores, and carries on considerable business. On the other side of the river is Prescott, where the British steamboat stops. The ruins of Fort Oswegatchie^ or Fort Pre- sentation, may still be traced. It was not very large, and contained only a bomb-proof, two buildings of stone, barracks, &c. It was built in the beginning or middle of the last century. Grapes are cultivated here with great success. The Thousand Islands are a most beautiful part of the navigation, presentimr themselves in every variety of forms, though never rising to any great elevation. They might be compared with the islands of Lake George. Gcdlop klandsf 5 m. Here the rapids of the St. Lawrence begin. A number of mills will be seen at different places on the shore. On Stony Island was a fort of some consequence, which was taken by Gene- ral Amherst on his way to Montreal, in the year 1760. St» RegiSf 54 m. The I ndian tribe which bears this namp have a reservation of land here 11 miles bv »S":-- -j;-;^ "'/'■' ■ ^Sfr •' ' "■^im^^". wr/ ; ■ '.r*- J;-''-.- ■:*'•'■ ::r'i^5^,-^ 'T^= r ■^ .. ^•- *^M' vfe .jr '^', '-->i - ■.Tr^'''^.:':'-:'r. i,- .": .- ;.iit^^ ■' ■ . ' f '"■■•■■ Mi 7 ::T^^ •■^-' I iake ^:-i^.?:^a^n-.,i... .■%'■'■■> ,- ■''^t^^iv;■■ :•' .,;/ ,^^ y ijt.vi;'; .-^ V •^^ IM- V ^•'V, -il^ ...4 ■ k ROLTE FKOM MA6ARA TO ALBAXV. 109 4> ^ I Lachine, 63 in. f See Index.) Montreal f 9 m'. (See do.) ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO ALBANY. Black Rock is a pleasant village situated on the margin of Niagara River, a little way from its head, and opposite Squaw Island, at the mouth of Lake Erie. It was burnt by the British duiing the war in 1814, but has since been rebuilt and increased to a much greater size. Black Rock disputed with Buffalo the privilege of having the basin of the canal built in her harbour, and at last obtained it. A pier about two miles in length was built to secure the boats and ves- sels from the waves of the lake, as well as to raise the water for the supply of the canal to the Genesee River. The work, however, has its disadvantages : for the swiftness of the current in the river, and the heaping up of the ice on the shores, prove great ob- stacles to the navigation, and the pier has suffered repeated injuries. It has been partly reconstructed on an improved plan. An inclined plane is presented to the waves, &c. BUFFALO, 3 miles from Black Rock. Inns. The Eagle Tavern, &c. The situation of this village is remarkably conve- nient and agreeable, occupying a long hill of a gentle ascent, rising from the immediate vicinity of tie lake. The principal street runs along the ridge of tie hill, looking out upon Lake Erie to the horizon, and is or- namented with several fine blocks of brick stores and handsome dwelling-houses, together with several pub- lic buildings, all erected since the burning of the village by the British in 1814, as well as the buildings in the other streets, which are fast increasing eveiy year. In April 1814, onl}^ one house was standing in the vil- lage, that of a widow in the upper part of the street. K 2 no UOVTE hliO^ NIAtiARA TO ALBANY. t A hrge piece of ^ound has been left in tbe middle oi the town for a public square, where several roads meet, and which it is intended to ornament with pub- lic edifices. .A walk has also been laid out on the brow of the hill towards the lake. This is called the Terrace, and affords a charming view upon the lake, the harbour, and the canal, to Black Rock. In 1825, a small village grew up below the terrace, 5 taverns beinff built, with 65 other houses, before which there was out one house. One of the inns will accommodate 300 persons. The lar^^est store in the state is believed to be one of these, which is 90 feet by 70, and 3 sto- ries high. The township was found to contain 6000 inhabitants that year, and has greatly improved since. The harbour of Buffalo is singularly fitted by nature for the junction of the two kinds of navigation which are here brought together; the entrance from the lake being sheltered by the point on which tbe light- house is erected, and the two small rivers which here unite thehr waters, affording every convenience for landing and reshipping goods. The shores of these are very bold, and they are connected by a natural channel, which serves the purposes of a basin, as well as of an easy communication ; and as the canal to Black Rock commences close by it, the inland trans- portation begins without more ado. Sixty vessels traded with Buffalo in 1827, including the steamboats; of which number 7 were Canadian. The steamboat Pioneer plied to Dunkirk, and the Chippewa to Chip- pewa. About 30,000 barrels of salt were shipped for the westward during that year. The United States are improving the harbour. The water of the Creek was brought into the vil- lage, in 1827, from above the falls, by a canal 3 miles long, which will supoly a head of water for machi- nery. A steam founaty is in operation in this town. The Canal to Bla/:k Rock is dug near the shore of tbe hke. Tbe Erie Canal is supplied with water hence to the Seneca River, from Lake Erie. The fir?t VOYA«E UP LAKK EMI*:! ni part ot it is through a low, sandy level, where thr. excavations were much impeded by the water which soaked through in g^reat abundance. About halt' a mile from Bunalo, the workmen hit upon^a bed of old half-decayed tr6es, which was duff into to lljc depth of six feet, and extended about naif a mile. Man> branches and logs were discovered, which preserved all tlie grain of the wood ; but the greater part was a black mass of matter, which, on bem^ dried, burned with greater readiness. In some places, ashes and coals were found ; and some of the logs appeared t<» have been washed and rolled by the water of the lake before they were buried. Cliatauque Lake, A steamboat of 50 tons began tu run on this lake in 1828. It performs the route from Jamestown to Maysville in 3 hours. 'I^or remarks on the Erie Canal see Albany,) VOYAGE UP LAKE ERIE. At Buffalo opens a very extensive route, for those who are disposed to travel still fatther westward. There is little to be seen along either shore of the lake, which would reward the common traveller for the tedium of a long ride over a country generally level, or for the inconveniences he would experience from want of public accommodations, and even the frequent absence of settlements. The price of a pas- sage to Detroit in the cabin is {15, and in the steerage, where nothing is supplied but ship room and access to the kitchen, half price. The follovving are the stop- ping places on the passage to Detroit, with their dis- tances ; and steamboats run almost every day, (See Olvio Canal, Index.) From Buffelo to Erie, 90 miles Erie to Grand River, 75 Grand River to Cleaveland, ... 30 Cleaveland to Sandusky, .... 60 Sanduskv to Detroit 75-TotaI 330 11^2 ROUTE JkUM ?«1A<;AKA TO ALUA.NV. The United States' government are improving seve- ral of these harbours, as there is not a natural one be- tween Buffalo and Sandusky. In 1827, there were 475 arrivals at the latter port. The AmericaTi Fur Company bring down g260,000 to $300,000 in furs. The steamboat Pioneer runs from Buffalo to Dun- kirk, connect'ng with the stage toaches to Cleave- land, which di/ide there, and go south to Woirester and to Newburffh, and west to Milan and Lower Sandusky. At Dunkirk begins a portage of 7 rallies to Casdaga lake, and the waters of the Ohio river. Michigan is a territory fast rising in population, wealth, and importance. A large branch of the tide of emigration from the eastern states and New-York has been turned in that direction, and still further uest, encouraged by the judicious system adopted by the government of the United States, in selling the land at reasonable prices for cash. Experience has proved, in other public hnds, the difficulties that must ever arise from credits to settlers, even with nominally high prices. The sober, industrious, and frugal can gene- rally produce or borrow money enough to purchase a small farm ; and then they have many encouragements to exertion, which a wretched population m debt would never feel. There may be seen a state of things similar to that witnessed in Ohio twenty or thirty years ago ; and in that length of time it is pre- sumed that changes no less important will be pre- sented in Michigan. The surface and soil are favourable to cultivation. There is a succession of gentle undulations, gradually rising towards the interior ; and the regularity of the ground, with the remarkably open nature of the forests, it is said, permit carriages to travel for hundreds of miles without meeting any obstacle. It has been pro- posed lo avoid the long circumnavigation of the whole peninsula, by making a canal across the neck. Green Bay^ on Lake Huron, is interesting as a posi- tion occupied by a military garrison, and the seat of a lar^ ex« trii Inc pari ANCiENT FOllTIFICATIOXS. 113 Ml Harge number of Indians, for whose improvement some exertions have been recently made. The principal tribe residing there are the Menominie, or nild Rice Indians, who are both numerous and powerful, and partly civilized. The Fox river, which empties into Green Bay, flows through a very fertile country; and the time is not very tar distant when the head waters of the stream will be united by a canal with the Ouisconsin, which flows into the Mississippi. The climate of Green Bay is remarkably healthful. The lead mines on Fevre river are now wrought by about five thousand men. The following are the boundaries of the proposed new territory, to be called Huron : from the north-east corner of the state of Illinois, northwardly, down the middle of Lake Michigan, to the " Big Fox Island ;" and thence, due north to the Canada line, or north- wardly, down the middle of the lake, and through the straits, east and south of the " Bois Blanc Islana," to the Canada line. Ancient Fortifications. On Buffalo Creek, and towards Genesee River also, are several large and interesting remnants of ancient fortifications ; but as they lie ofi" the road, few travel- lers will visit them. They appear to form part of a great chain of defensive works extending from the eastern part of Lake Ontario, along that lake and Erie, down the Ohio and Mississippi rivers to Mexico. Thii is the opinion of Mr. Atwater, of Circleville, Ohio, who has published some very interesting details, drawings, &c. connected with them, in his " Archae- ologia Americana." A line of old forts extends from Cataraugus Creek, 60 miles, along the shore of Lake Erie, to the line of Pennsylvania. They are on the borders of creeks and old bays, although now from two to five miles distant from the lake, which is sup- posed to have retired that distance since thev wpj'p i. ft rt ■I''. •i; 114 ROUTi: rmm ■SIAGAKA to AliiJAAk. built. Another similar line is said to exist in the reai of them, on another parallel elevation. Much curiosity and speculation have been called forth by these singular monuments of antiquity. Some regard them as marks of a civilized people ; others as the works of Indian tribes. Some traces of a tra- dition referring thehi to the latter, are said to h?ve been lately discovered. Seneca Castle. — The Seneca nation possess a lai^e and valuahle tract of land adjoining- Buffalo, on tne east, and they have two villages three and five miles on the road. The Senecas are the westernmost tribe in the confederacy of the Five Nations, and have al- ways held a conspicuous rank in their history. They were formerly considered the most numerous and powerful tribe, and preserved this superiority until the fatal defeat they received from General Schuyler, in 1778, since which they have made a less conspicuous figure. Besides the land they possess, which is remarkable for its fertility, the nation are in possession of a large sura in the United States' Bank stock, the dividend for which they receive annually. The traveller will observe several farms under a degree of cultivation, and may meet with individuals who conform pretty nearly to the English style of dress, and have introduced some of our customs into their houses. The greater part of them, however, speak no language but Indian. Stage Road from Buffalo to Canandaigua. The first few miles of this road present very little interest ; 15 or 20 m iles of it were formerly remarkable as passing over an old causeway of logs. The logs made the travelling rough and disagreeable ; but as thej^ are gradually covered over with earth, the diffi- culties are lessenmg every year. To those who are npt accustorHed to a country so new and wild as i\^y. ■*■ fiJix\Eai:E MEADOWS. U5 u word or two may not be amiss on the manner in which roads are first made in an American settlement. In thick forests, the surface of the ground is covered to the depth of one or two feet with the roots of trees, which are extremely difficult to be removed, and are very dangerous for horses or oxen to pass over. A close layer of logs, although itself sufficiently rough, forms a much safer and more convenient path, and is- usually adopted with great advantage. There is another reason for it — the elevation of the road above the common surface, secures it from being overflowed by the water, which in the moist seasons of the year would impede the travelling in low and marshy places. Baiavia, 40 miles from Buffalo, is a very handsome village, and contains the residence of the present and former agents of the Holland Land Company, (Messrs. Evans and Otto,) as well as the county buildings.* Leroy, 10 miles. [Springs. In Avon, 2| miles from the road through that village, are 8 or 10 springs, where are boarding houses.} The Wadsn'orth Faring at Geneseo, contains >out 4000 acres, about 1700 of which are rich alluvial lr»nd on the banks of the Genesee river. Various branches of agriculture have been tried on this fertile tract of coimtry ; but the raising of sheep has been found the most profitable, and the farm has been almost entirely converted into mowing fields and pastures. The number of sheep, in 1827, was computed at 13,000. The residence of the proprietor is in a fine and spa- cious building, in a commanding situation; and the whole aspect of the farm indicates the good order and method with which it is Conducted. Mr. Rogers has a very fine farm in Moscow. The Genesee meddows were formerly the residence of a large tribe of Indians of the Seneca nation ; and when Gen. Sullivan reached thib place, in his march' * Stage coaches run from Bofavia to Bocliestcr. ft ili> KOIJ'J'E J'KOM MAGAKA iU ALHAiS\ . through the country, he found and burnt a village oi 120 log liouses, on the second bank, which had oeen deserted at his approach. One of his scouts was cut oft' while his army was near the west bank of the river, and only one man escaped ; but the Indians constantly fled as he approached, and there was no %hting in all this western part of the state. The remains of a mammoth were dug up about half a mile from the village of Geneseo in 1825. There were 8 teeth and grinders, parts of a tusk, a Ihigli bone 3 feet long, the lower bone of the leg 8 feet G inches, &c. They lay between strata of vege- table mould and sand. West Bloomfiddt beyond the Genesee river, is one of the finest agricultural townships in the state, and presents a succession of beautiful farms, tilled with care and yielding the finest crops. Fruit thrives re- markably well in all this western country, as the slightest attention to the orchards will sufficiently prove ; and while in smoothness and neatness the fields rival those of the oldest districts farther east, the or- chards exceed them in luxuriance and product. The black apple is a species of fruit which has been said to be peculiar to this region. East Blooiiifield is the next village ; and the general remarks just made, may with justice be applied to this place also. CANANDAIGUA. Inn, Blossom's Stage House. This is one of the finest western towns, and its prin- cipal street runs along the ridge of a commanding hill, rising from the north end of Canandaicua Lake. It is wide, and contains an academy, and many hand- some houses, particularly that of the late Gideon Granger. The road, in passing Canandaigu Lake, commaDds a finer view than on any of the other lakes it passes, except Skeneateles. The banks are high and variegated, and at the distance of two or three* -rnr; •^n t -^ " ~r ^•., :^, ^\ '/.-.. ^^i^" %■> *' .,{^ I-'. *-'-*. ^J*. > :> .- . .■% '! ' »* ' ^. *r, ' ^^ ,'# ! ,>•. **.^," ■'■.*•• - ,•<-'' \ i " **•' V^' ' ,-. , sy r.' rf , V- ft i ■.* :., ( "^t^- ■ \ • / 1 ,1 1 1 , '>i:rx '#■•> "-" " #. *r^ '„i V ■>. <^ • -^.-i., •' \ f ■ \ •«i-;/ ■'•'. ) ":if ' %; f S" •/ U il!»^// z**" ' ■■K *■•■■•! .■ .,'■•;>■ i ' i » MreAer UUK2il^C» SVUiiNGS. 117 \niles, rise to an imposing height, and add a great de- gree of beauty to the scene. A number of gentle- men's seats are seen along the western bank ; and a little way off in the lake on the same side, is a small rocky island, where the Seneca Indians carried all their women, children, and old men, when Gen. Sulli- van appeared against them. The new steamboat Lady of the Lake began to run regularly on Canandaigua Lake in 1827 ; and a hotel was to be built at the head of it. It is on the Annesley plan — that is, built entirely of boards with- out the use of timbers. — A railroad is to be made to the Canal. Stage coaches go to Rochester eveiy day. . BURNING SPRINGS. Springs of water, charged with inflammable gas, are quite common in Bristol, Middlesex, and Canan- daigua. The gas from the former rises through fissures of the -late, from both the margin and the bed of the brook. Their places are known by the little hillocks of a few feet in diameter, and a few inches high, formed of a dark bituminous mould, through which it finds its way to the surface, in one or more currents. These currents of gas may be set on fire, and will burn with a steady flame. In winter they form openings through the snow, and being set on fire, exhibit the novel and interesting phenomenon of a steady and lively flame in contact with nothing but snow. In very cold wea- ther, it is said, tubes of ice are formed round these currents of ^as, (probably from the freezing of the water contamed in it,) which sometimes rise to the height of two or three feet, the gas issuing from their tops ; the whole, when lighted in a still evening, pre- senting an appearance even more beautiful than the former. From 3 pit which was sunk in one of the hillock?, J. F^ no ROtTE FllOM iMAGAKA TO ALilAM. f the gas was conducted through bored logs, to the kitchen c>f a dwelling. The novelty of the spectacle attracted a concourse of visiters, so great that the proprietors found it expedient to convert their dwelling into a public inn. The road between Canandaigua and Geneva passes Over a singular tract of country, the form of which will not fail to be remarked by an observant traveller. The ground gradually rises by large natural terraces, or steps, for about half the distance, and descends in the same nianner on the other side to Seneca Lake. These steps, or terraces, appear to have been formed by those strong currents of water of which geologists speak, which at some ancient period of time have evi- dently passed over many tracts of country in different parts of the world. 1 he ridges and channels thus formed here stretch north and south, frequently to a considerable distance, corresponding both in form and direction with the numerous lakes which are found in this part of the state. Several ancient fortifications have been traced here. From the middle ridge the view is extensive ; but the surrounding country is of too uniform a surface to present any remarkable variety of scenery* GENEVA. This town occupies a charming situation at the foot of Seneca Lake, and for a mile alon^ its western bank, which rises to a considerable elevation above the sur- fjkce> and affords room for a broad and level street. The buildings in this village are remarkably neat and handsome. ^ A college has lately been instituted in this place. The building is of stone, with 26 rooms for students, a chapel, and library. It is warmed only by stove?. Rev. J. Adams is president. The steamboat Seneca Chief, in 1829, ran daily to Jeffersonville, (at the head of the lake,) and back again, oflfering the traveller an asrreenble excursion GKNKVA. no Dresden and Ovid, 12 miles from Geneva, are op- posite each otiier. The former stands at the outlet of Crooked Lake. The Penyan descends nearly 400 feet, affording excellent mill seats. South from this is Ihe former abode of Jemima Wilkinson. Strakie's Point is 6i miles south of llapelyea's Ferry. The shore is there very bold, so that the Seneca Chief can pass within a few feet of the land. Much lumber is exported from this place, brought from £ddystown, which is a mile inlana. Big Stream Point, 4 miles. Here is a fall in a tri- butary of this beautiful lake, of 136 feet, by which several mills are supplied. The eastern shore is generally handsomely culti- vated ; but near the head of the lake, on the western side, about 15 miles of the shore is covered with forest,. The land rises, and becomes rough and billy. Hector'i Falls, 3 miles from the lake, are 150 feet in height, and supply several mills. Jeffersonville and Havana are two villages at the head of the lake. [Travelling southward from Geneva. A line of stage coaches goes, in connexion with the steamboat, from Geneva, every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, via Bath, Painted Post, Lawrenceville, Willardsbuig, Ca- nal Port to Trout Run, and via Elmira and Troy to Trout Run, on the other days of the week — and daily, (except Sundays,) from Trout Run through Williams- port, Pennsborough, Milton, Northumberland, Sunbury, Selinsgrove, Liverpool to Harrisburg. From Hams- burg a line runs every day through to Philadelphia— and one daily, (except Sundays^) to Baltimore and Washington City — through m[five days. Returns in the same way. At Northumberland it mtersects a line that runs three times a week to Wilkesbarre : at Wil- liamsport, a line that runs to Bellefonte, Alexandria, and intersects the Pittsburg line : at Elmira it intersects line running to Ithaca, Owego and Montrose : at Bath, a line to Angelica and Ofean Point, and one to f),in«viile, Gpne?ro, Rorhepter, Buffalo, and Niagara a HP 120 ROUTE FK03I DilAGAKA TO ALVAISV, Falls. At Geneva, this line intersects 4 daily line.« running east and west, and also 3 daily lines running north to the Erie canaL The journey from Geneva or Rochester to Baltimore, is performed by this line in five days, by daylight, passing through a fine, healthy, and highly cultivated country, travelling upwards of 100 miles on the beau- tiful banks of the Susquehannah, and about 50 miles on the bank of the Pennsylvania canal.] Seneca Lake is 35 miles long, and about 3 or 4 wide. Its depth is unusually great, and the water clear and very cold, to which is referred the scarcity of fish. There is a remarkable phenomenon long observed by those who reside near it, which has never been satis- factorily accounted for. The water has a regular rise; and fall every seven years. The Chemung Canal is to be made from the head wa- ters of this lake to the Chemung river, with a feeder. A stage coach runs froni Geneva up the east side of the lake, and then crosses to the head of Cayuga lake, to the village of Ithaca ; but the road is not interesting, and the more agreeable mode of reaching that village is by taking the steamboat at Cayuga bridge, 14 miles from Geneva, on the great mail route. The Cayuga and Seneca Canaly which was com- pleted in 1828, has opened boat navigation between these lakes and the Erie canal, and a packet line was to run to Troy, early in 1829. The Cayuga and Seneca Canal passes through Wa- terloo, from Geneva down the valley of Seneca River to Montezuma, on the Erie canal, it is 20 miles and 24 chains in length, of which ten miles is an inde- pendent canal, and the remainder a slack water navi- gation. It has 7 locks, being 73i feet lockage, 10 bridges, 5 safety gates, 5 dams, 6 culverts, 17 miles of fence, 3 lock houses, and 1 collector's office. Cayuga Lake is 40 miles in length, and generally about 2 in breadth. A fine bridge is built across il near the northern end. where it is a mile wide. Th(5 ne.s ins: ?ht, ted au- iles de. ind ish. ,, »^ ei/' -/' t"»4> .« t <: ■t^- I- k t, ■?"■ .^■ft :V fc »'- 'A ' ■• /' f5^. j^'" tis- 1 va- r. 3 of ke, - ■■-■f les ■. ( ■ Jen ' i-'r--"' r -.*'■ » 1^ f ra- ider nd vi- 10 .of 5 it /^teit K i -i<^St Sj.,; ■i'4 ""^..Jlf' "'^V f ■I? .* » Wl* 4 •#"'■ 'm^- -*^i i^'* - .u -■i, . , >- 1^1,1 .-W PI ill.WM IIlil "l' l W' l ITHACA AND OSWEGO RAILIIOAD. 1:^1 f^teamboats Telemachus and Experiment ply between Cayiigfa bridj^e and Ithaca, at the head ot the lake. The former is on Annesley's plan, and carries only passengers. The l)e Witt Clinton is a new boat, on the same plan ; 100 feet long, with three cabins, a promenade, large enough to accommodate a con- siderable number of passengers, and is frequently crowded with parties trom the neighbouring countiy, as well as travellers, as the excursion is one of the fleasantest that can be taken in this part of the state, t also cciKiects several lines of stage coaches, which the traveller will do well to notice if he wishes to ffo to Catskill, Newhurgi Nezv-York, or New- Jersey ^ by the most direct routes. These routes will be noticed on arriving at Ithaca. The price of a passage in the steamboat is one dollar. A little before arriving at the head of the lake, a beautiful '^mterfall is seen on the left hand, where a stream of w ^ter flows over a very high precipice into a deep glen, and forces its way along, turning several valuable mills in its course. The landing place is about three miles from the village of Ithaca, but lumber boats can pass the bar at the mouth of the inlet, and proceed up to the street. The village of Ithaca is neat and flourishing. Here centre three roads to Catskilly Newburg^ and New- York. The first leads nearly in a direct line to the Hudson River, the second passes the Great Bend of the Delaware, and the third furnishes daily the shortest route to New- York. The Cascade. This beautiful and romantic scene, about 3 miles from the village, is one of the most pic- turesque that can be imagined. The height and so- lemnity of the surrounding rocks, the darkness of their shadows, and the beauty of the sparkling soray, unite to produce an impression of pleasure wnich is rarely experienced at the sight of any scene, however extra- ordinary for beauty or sublimity. The Fall river de- 5«cends 438 feet in a mile. The Great Fall is 1 16 feetv L2 VZ!Z ROUTli: FliOH I\lAliAK \ TO ALUiVKV. The other lulls in this vicinity are the Casca(hll.u Tauqkanic, (262 feet,) Six Mile creek, l!uttermilk, kv. Ithaca ana Osn^effo llailroad. The lef(islature, iu 18'JH, passed an act authori/inj; the const rucl ion of u railroad from this place to the Susquchannah river at Oswej^o. The distance is about .10 miles ; the expense is estimated at $lw>(M>0(>, or $1,000 a mile. This is one-tourth moR^ than the Mauch ('hunk railway cost, and the sa Me price as that estimated for the Hudson and Delaware Kailvvay, the rails for which have been imported from Kngland. The soil and surface are favourable ; labour and materials cheap ; and the amount of pmduce which would pass that way from the neighbouring country, is estimated at 12,000 tons annually, which alone would oay 16 per cent, on the cost. To this ought to be adaed about 10,000 tons of plaster and salt. The market lor lumber is best at New-Y^ork. 500 tons of plaster and salt are now annually transported fmm Ithaca to Oswego by land, and sent down the Susquehani^ah. In consequence of the earlier opening of navigation on the Susq^uehannah, in tiie spring, than on the Eric canal, and its beinj; closed later in the fall, ^reat ad- vantages, it is thought, would be obtained by Balti- more ; and even the fact that the navigation is longer free on the western than the eastern part of that canal every year, would probably divert a considerable amount' of transportation to this route, it is stated that the freight of a barrel of whiskey or pork from Ithaca to Baltimore, would be only 92 cents ; while it is $1 19 to New- York by the Erie canal. T%e Cayuga and Siisquehannah Canal. The route proposed is from (^ayuga lake, near the mouth of Cascadilla, through Ithaca, along Mud Creek and the valley of the Oswego, to the Susquehannah. The anjount of lockage is 760 feet ; the distance 31 miles ; and the estimated expense r>>i0,000 dollars. Auburn is another beautiful village, and merits the name it h^s borrowed from Gol&mith's charmins- V\ 111 t( '11 A *iTATE rUlHUN. IkiJ^ )>oiiUy. It is unfortunately placed at sonic distance lioni tlie lake, and therefore is deprived of the pic- turesque character which it rrught have enioved. There is a Theological Seminary in Auburn, which has a ^ood number of students. There are several handsome public buildings in this place, but the most important j.^ the State Prison. This institution, having been managed by Mr. Lynds, and established on his system, so excelfent, so cele- brated, and with remarkable success, merits particular notice. The old Auburn prison was built in 1817, and cost about $300^000 ; it is constructed upon the plan of a hollow square, inclosed by a wall of 2000 feet m extent, being 500 feet on each side, and, for the most part, 35 feet in height. The north wing of the building diflfers very much in its construction from any building of the kind, and the use of which is conceived to be one oi the greatest improvements in prisons, and one of the best aids to prison discipline, which have been any where made. The workshops are bi'ilt against the inside of the outer wall, fronting towards the ^ard, I'rom which every shop is visible, forming a contmued range of 940 feet. With such alterations as it may undergo, it can be made to hold 1100 convicts. At the close of 1829, it contained 639. " The new building contains 400 cells, and covers only ^06 by 46 feet of ground. There are 5 stories of cells, each containing eighty in two parallel lines, divided in the middle by a wall two feet thick. The walls between the cells are one foot thick. The ce\L are 7 feet long, 7 high, and 3| wide, intended to re- ceive only one convict in each. Each cell has a ven~ tilator ext( tiding to the roof, and is so constructed in icont, that the prisoners can neither converse or make signs to each other. The area aromid the rell« is fpn 124 ROUTE FROM IN'IA^GARA TO ALBAK-t. feet wide and open to the roof, which covers the galle- ries of the several stories. Besides the moral benefit arising^ from keeping the prisoners separate, it unites that of economy and security. From the construction of the prison, 5 small stoves,6 large and 12 small lamps, all out of reach of the convicts, afford heat and light to 555 cells ; and one sentinel is sufficient to 400 prisoners. The discipline only requires to be seen to be duly appreciated. The conduct of the prisoners while at their labour, and their quietness under the privations of the prison, prove that the discipline is complete and effective ; and the main cause of the order and decorum thus observed, is, that in all matters of disci- pline, there is but one head or principal." Minute observations on the comparative labour of a free person and a convict show that the latter does not accomplish as much in a day as the former. In this prison, under the direction of Mr. Lynds, (row superintendent of the Singsing prison,) the great system of reformation in discipline commenced. The pardoning power is now exercised with great caution by the executive ; for perhaps no circumstance has so much contributed to do away the terrors of punishment as the facilities afforded ihe worst part of our species in obtaining a pardon. Ancient Fortifications. There are some remains of ancient fortifications in the vicinity of this place, as well as in the neighbouring towns of Camillus, Onon- daga, and Pompey. If the traveller should wish to take the canal, a stage coach goes every day to Weed's Basin, 8 miles, and carries passengers for 50 cents, to meet the canal boats, which pass at stated periods. FROM AUBURN TO SYRACUSE, By the Canal, 34 miles. (Stage coach to Weed's Basin,) Jordan village, in Camillus township^ 8 miles* FKOM SYKACUSE TO UTICAr • 1 2r> A proposition has been made for a canal from Jordan to Homer, on the Susquehannah, which has been found practicable. The dis- tance is 34 miles, of which, only 14 will re- quire to be dug. Canton, (half-way village between Buffalo and Albany, 179 miles from the former, and 183 from the latter,) 6 miles. Geddes village, (with salt works,) . . 12 Syracuse, 2 By the Road, 28 miles, Skeneateles, 8 Marcellus, 6 Onondaga, 10 Syracuse, 4 • Syracuse. For a description of this place, as well as of Salina, the Salt Springs and Salt Manufactories , see page 69. Although the routes east of Syracuse, both by the canal and by the road, are given in other places, and although they may be traced on the maps, it may perhaps be convenient to have them repeated in the reversed order, for travellers going towards Albany. (For places see Index.) FROM SYRACUSE TO UTICA, By the Canal, 61 miles. Manlius Landing,* 9 Chitteningo Creek, 8 At Chitteningo is an Academy where some of the higher branches are taught. (A curious petrified tree near this place, a few steps from the canal, was found with many of its branches.) * About 20 yards from the canal, Gypsmn Oilasiter of Parish N oh t.ijrti'il in utfis^ris of frniu 1 to lOfi toti«. I'^IQ llOUTE FEOM MAGAUA TO ALBANY. Canastota village and basin, ...... 8 miles. Oneida creek, , . . « . 5 Wood creek 13 Rome, * 3 Oriskany village, ......... 8 Whitesborougn, .......... 3 Utica, , . 4 By the Road, 48 miles, Derne, 3 Manlius, 3 Sullivan, 9 Vernon, 11 Westmoreland, 6 Nevtr-Hartford, . . . . .... . .7 Utica, 4 For Utica, Hamilton College, and Trenton Falls, see page 62. FROM UTICA TO SCHENECTADY, By ike Canal, 79^ tfiiles. Lock, No. 63 (end of the long level, which begins westward at Salina, and extends to this place, 69^ miles, without a lock,) . . 9 Bridge over the Mohawk, and Herkimer vil- la&re .............fs Little Falls, ...'..'.!..*.! 8 Fall Hill, a mountain on the right, 518 feet higher than the canal, 712 above high water ^ in the Hudson River, and about 145 above Lake Erie, 1 Old Mohawk Castle, 5 Fort Plain, 9i Canajobarie, 4 A railway has been proposed, to run hence to Catskill 60 J'lio3I BCHENECTADY TO ALBAKl". 127 Anthony's Nose, . . .^ Smiles. (This scene is represented in the plate from this side. The bluff on the right is Anthony's Nose, on the top of which a remarkable cavern opens, extending further down than it has ever been explored.) Schoharie Creek, 11 Amsterdam Village, (across the river,) . . 5 Flint Hill, . . : .^ 6 Rotterdam Flats, 8 Schenectady, 3 Road to Many, 15i miles. Numerous coaches go every day. A railroad is to be constructed. Road to ballston and Saratoga. Both these roads offer the shortest and most expeditious communication with the places to which they conduct, and if the tra- veller should be in pressing haste, he should avail himself of them. To travellers of leisure and taste, however, the canal boats are recommended to the Mohawk bridge, al- though they are liable to many delays at the numerous locks along this difficult but interesting part of the canal. FROM SCHENECTADY TO ALBANY, By the Canal, 28 i miles, Alexander's Bridge, (on the turnpike road to Albany and Boston — an interesting scene,) 4i Upper Aqueduct, (on which the canal crosses the Mohawk,) , . i The Young Engineer, a rock on the right, so called, where the cutting is the deepest on the whole route, viz. 32 feet, 4 Wat Hoix Gap, 5i (A natural channel, through which the canal is led more than 200 yards. The rocks are graywacke «late. In the river is the Wat Hoix Rapid, which the Indians called the Evil Spirit, nnd sometimes the White Horse.) ■.'•;;a 1.^11 UOXjTE from NIAGAltA TO ALHA^il. Lower Aqueduct, 1 188 feet lon^, on which the canal crosses the Mohawk again, on 24 stone abutments and piers, 2i m\\e^> The tour Locks, 8 feet each, and Cohoes Falls, 2 The two Locks, 9 feet each, f The three Locks, and the Cohoes Bridge over the Mohawk, i (Hence to Waterford, on the road to Ballston, Sara- toga, &c. is about a mile and a half, where stage coaches are continually passing in the visiting season. By leaving the boat here, or a little below, where the canal meets the road, a seat may frequently be found, in a passing coach, to Waterford or the Sprinajs ; or some may prefer to take a boat on the Northern Canal. which is close at hand. We shall take up the land route after giving the few remaining objects on the way to Albany, and referring the reader to page 39 for a description of that city.) The Junction, where the Northern Canal, from Lake Champlain meets the Erie Canal, h West Troy, 1 (Here is a cluster of buildings about the basin:"; where the Troy boats lie. The Lift Lock has been before described. The dam across the Mohawk will afiford an easy communication between the canal and Troy, which is seen on the opposite side. A good horse ferryboat plies below.) United States' Arsenal, 1 The Manor House of Gen. Van Rensselaer, called Rensselaerwyck, & Albany, I UATERFOKli. ROUTE TO THE SPRlxNGf . [For the Road and Canal between Albany and Wa- lerford, see page 4*7, and onward.] WATERFORD. This tillage is situated on the western side oF the Hudson, across which the communication is convenient by means of the first bridge we have seen over this river. Lansingburgh stands opposite, and is a place of considerable size. The streets of Waterford are wide, regular, and handsomely built. Some of the private houses are remarkable for their neatness. There are numerous rocky islands with precipitous sides, at the mouth of the Mohawk River, which are seen at a little distance below the bridge. The boats on the Champlain Canal enter the Mohawk in full view of them, through guard locks» and are poled across ; the current being stopped by a dam. During the warm season of the year, Waterford is a great thoroughfare, lying on two roads to Albany, as well as in the way to both Ballston and Saratoga Springs, Lake George, &c. It is 21 2 miles to Ballston Springs, and 24 to Saratoga. The approach to the village from the south-west, by the canal and the road, is uncommonly beautiful, it lies quite below you, with a little meadow in front, bounded by the canal and the Hudson, its white houses mingled with fine trees, and Diamond Hill rising be- hind, with its sides half cultivated, and half covered with woods. A few chrystals are found on Diamond Hill. Inn. Demarest's Stage House. The shortest road from Waterford to Ballston Springs is through JVewtown, 18^ miles. It passes over higher land than that through Mechanicville, and M uo ROUTE TO TlliJ Sl»lllXGfr. perhaps ia not more sandy, but is not furnished with stage coaches. The usual road will be given afterward. On leaving Waterford it verges to the west, and rises to an ^evation of considerable height, which affords a view towards the south over a charming piece of country : the high, half-cultivated range of hills, which extend some miles down the Hudson in the rear of Lansingburgh and Troy, together with a broad strip of land on each side of the river, including the tract on the west bank, divided by parts of the Champlain and Erie canals, and the mouth of the Mohawk river. From two miles further on. Saddle Mountain appears in view in the east, with a single Seak more in the north, and at a still greater distance, [uch of this road is sandy, and a great deal of wheat and clover is cultivated. J^ewtoTtmy 3i miles from Waterford. Half Mom^ 4. From this place, the Catskill Moun- tains are plainly visible in clear weather. Second Inn in Half Moon, 4. About 3 miles beyond this place, the view open?t and shows that the traveller is in a kind of amphi- theatre : the Greenfield Mountains in the west stretch- ing far away towards the north, and the Vermont mountains in the east, which seem to approach them as they retire, with several fine and prominent peaks, Particularly one which is about three mrles beyond lennington, Vt., famous for the defeat of Col. Baum, in the Revolution. Afterward the road passes near Ballston village, but without affording a sight of it. The Springs^ being situated in a little valley, two miles beyond, the first intimation you have of your approach is the sight of several tall evergreens, and a small pleasure house on the top of a sharp hill, in the rear ot Aldridge's boarding-house. STILL WATEK. i:n From Waterford to the Spritsw, bit Me- chanicville. This is the usual road, but oflfers few objects of interest. Mechanicvillei or the Borough, Sh miles from Wa- terford. Here the coaches generally stop for breakfast or dinner. Near at hand is a Cotton Manufactory, whence the place derives its former name. Dunning'Street. — Here is a little villag:e, at which the road turns off west for (he Springs. About a mile south of it we cross the Northern canal. [Stillwater is 3 miles above, and 4 miles beyond that is Smith's Tavern,, where those will stop who wish to visit the battle ground, at Bemis's Heights.] Although the great crowd of travellers on this road will take the route to Ballston or Saratoga, yet as they will find few objects of any interest, it may be proper to introduce, in this place, an account of the expedition of Gen. Burgoyne, and the battle of Bemis's Heights, often known by the name of the battle of Saratoga ; as we are within a few miles of the field. Stillwater takes its name from the smoothness and quietness of the Hudson, which there spreads out over a broad surface, and hardly shows any appearance of a current. It is the place to which Gen. Schuyler retreated at the approach of Gen. Burgoyne, after removing all the stores, driving away the cattle, and throwing all possible obstacles in his way ; afterward retiring to the island at the mouth of the Mohawk : and through this place, Gen. Gates, who soon after succeeded him in the command, marched up from Half Moon to take position on Bemis's Heights. The reader is referred to the Maps, to observe the importance of the tract of country which lies along the route we have just entered upon. From Canada 132 ROUTE TO THE SPRlNt^. to the head of Lake Champlain there is an unintei- lupted water communication, by which troops and every thing necessary to an army may be transported with the utmost facility. A short land carriage reaches Lake George. Wood Creek, at the south end of Champlain, is navigable in boats to Fort Anne, which is only 9 miles distant from Fort Edward, on Hudson river, whence the navigation is open to New-York. Here have consequently been many of the most im- portant miiilary operations which have ever been carried on in the United States. The first battle within this region, of which history gives any account, ■was fought between the French and the Five Nations of Indians, soon after the settlement of Canada, when the latter first learned the terrible effect of gunpowder, and began, to flee from the approach of cI ization. In the numerous expeditions which at subsequent pe- riods were undertaken by the British against Canada, this route was taken in the attack, and not unfrequently in the retreat. The important events of the war of 1735 were almost confined to this region ; and the Revolution and the last war with England produced scenes which will be touched upon in their places. The first period to which we shall refer, is that of the Revolution ; and the first scene, that of the battle of Saratoga, or Bemis's Heights, towards which we are fast approaching. " I could here," says Dr. Dwight, " almost forget that Arnold became a traitor to his countrj, and satisfy myself with recollecting, that to his invincible gal- lantry, and that of the brave officers and soldiers whom he led, my country was, under God, indebted, in a prime degree, for Lier independence, and all its con- sequent blessings. I should think an American, par- ticularly an inhabitant of New-England or New-York, little to be envied, whose patriotism did not gain force upon the heights of Stillwater, or the plains of Sara- toga. These scenes I have examined : the former 5vith solemnity and awe, the latter with ardour and BURGOYNE S EXPEDITION. 133 t admiration, and both with enthusiasm and rapture. Here i have remembered, and here it was impossible not to remember, that on this very spot a controversy was decided, upon which hung the liberty anr on the 10. h of May, 1759, he was raised to the rank of Lieut. Colonel, and in tiie August of the ensuuisr year, he was appointed Lieut. Col. (Joinmandant of the 16tii Lighc Dragoons. His after services at different periods, in Spain, Portugal, and America, are all well kn^>wn, esiteciiilly the unfortunate termination of his military career at Saratoga, which, though it tarnished not bis honour, cast a shade over his brow, (!ver a'lerwaid conspicuous to the physiognomical eye. He made, on Ciiriain occasionH, no ordinary Asure in Parliatnent. He moved in the first circles, and married Lady Charlotte Stanley, a daughter of the Earl of Derby ; and yet we know not who and wuat he originally was. He was th*^ author of tour successful dramas: the Maid of the Oak. the Lord of the Manor, Richard Coeur ite T.ion, and the comedy of the Heiress; and yet the curiosity of hia biographer, ^ven in this anecdote-deal iuL' and memoir-sifting agtN cannot trace nin origin or the scenes of his education. The tale of the Lord of the Manor seems, in some de^iiree, lo have been disguised in the modification of the character and circumstances by the incident of his own matrimonial connexi(m: for his was a claiidestine and unauthorized marriage, at a time when lie held only a subaltern's commission in tUo array ; and is said to have excited at first the resentment of the lady's father to such a degree, that he declared his resolution never to ad: nit the offenders into his presence, though, in process of time, the angei of the Earl subsided, a reconciliation was eff<'cted, and was succeeded by a warm and laiii'ic attachment. It is probable, also, that the memory of his ladv, who died M 2 hA UOUT£ TO TU£> SPBl^'US. light wing ; and the outposts and the fort were Sfuc- cessively abandoned by the Americans. The news of the evacuation of this place was p. most disheart- ening piece of intelligence to the country. It had been confidently hoped that an effectual resistance would there be o^ered to a force which threatened the liberty of America ; or at all events, that an heroic stand would be made at that important post, which had so long been regarded as an almost impregnable fortress. During his delay, Gen. Schuyler obstructed the channel of Wood creek, removed every thing valuable from the country, and took the stores from Fort George to Fort Edward : sending tor regular troops, and calling for the militia of^ the neighbouring states, both which were supplied. Gen. Arnold and Col. Mojrgan joined him with a body of riflemen, and Gen. Lincoln with the New-£ngland militia ; and he fell back to Sara- toga and Stillwater. t Battle of Bennington.* While these preparations were making for a general engagement, the battle ot Bennington occurred, which must now be introduced to preserve the order of time. Being in want of provisions, Gen. Burgoyne had de- in 1776, at Kensington Palace, during his absence in America, is em- halnicd by the aflectionatc regrets of the General, in that beautiful air ill the first act of that opera: " Encompassed in an angel's frame, An angel's virtues lay : Too soon did heaven assert the claim, And call its own away. v ' My Anna's vi^orth, my Anna's charms, Must never more return ! What now shall fill these widow'd arms 1 Ah, me ! my Anna's urn !" * In Bennington is an iron mine, which produces excellent.orc* V^ good pig iron ts forged ihr^p.'. UATTLE OF SABATOOA. 135 bpatched Lt. Col. Baum, with his Hessians, to seize the Eublic stores at Bennington. He was supported by it. Col. Brechman, who stopped at Baten Kill. Brig. Gen. Stark with the New-Hampshire troops, joined by Col. Warner, attacked Col Baum at the Wallomsack river, where they were encamped, July 16th, (1777,) and in two hours, forced their works, and completely defeated them. Col. Warner be^an the attack on Coi. Brechman, wounded him mortally, and took him pri- soner, and put his troops to flight. Two hundred and twenty-six of the British troops were killed at the battle of Bennington, or rather the battle of Hoosac, as it was fought in that town. Seven hundred soldiers were taken prisoness, and thirty-six officers. To return to the principal scene of action. Gen. Gates now received the command of the American troops, which had been greatly reinforced; and marching them from the east side of the Hudson river, opposite Half Moon, to Stillwater, on the west side, took a position on Bemis's Heights. BEMIS'S HEIGHTS, A ridge of elevated ground, beginning on the left, about a quarter of a mile from the river, and stretching ofiS towards the north-west, offered great advantages for the defence of the road. Gen. Gates's Camp was about half a mile from the road on the left, and his quarters were in a house which is yet standing, although very old. A by-road leads to rhe place ; and the traveller, if he is able, will find himself repaid by examining the old intrench- ments, and afterward proceeding along the heights, which were occupied by the American troops. By making a considerable circuit by a road, in some places rough, he may ride over the encampment and the scenes of the tvt'o battles, and then come back to the rivep at Smith's little tavern* three miles above thi^ 136 KOUTE TO THE SPRINGS. place, or cross over to the Springs. The space be- tween the river and the brow of the hill was crossed by a deep intrenchment defended with artillery, and almost impracticable. The American Lines, three-quarters of a mile long, were furnished with a breastwork of lojis, (the hills being almost entireiv a forest,)and the left terminated opposite the enemy s right. From the left almost to the centre, the ground is level, and was partly cleared, yet much encumbered with fallen and girdled trees. An opening, left of the centre, had a battery — thence a ravine ran to the right. Near the house once occupied by Gen. Gates, and close by a rail fence, are seen some remains of the intrenchmenls which defended the American camp. The view from many mrts of this elevated ground is extensive and delightful, embracing the fertne shores and uplands of the Hudson, with many surrounding hills and distant moujitains. It will be recoIN-'cted, that the expedition under Sir Henry Clinton, who p ')ceedrd up Hudson river to Kingstor , wns intended to co-operate with Gen. fiur- goyne, but failed to produce the effect. The British Lines stretclied from a hill opposite the American left, in .< str;>ight line across the meadow to the Hudson river. The following account of their approach from Lake George is (rom Gen. WiikinsoH's Memoirs. " Gen. Burgoyne crot3'^d the Hudson river the 13th and 14th of September, f.nd advanced with great cir- cumspection on the 16th from Saratoga to Davocote, where he halted to repair bridges in his front. The 16th was employed in tnis labour, and in reconnoi- tring : on the 17th he advanced a mile or two, resumed his march on the 18th, and Gen. Arnold was detached by Gen. Gates, with 1500 men, to harass him ; but after a light skirmish, he returned without loss, or effecting any thing more than picking up a few strag- glers ; and the enemy moved lorwaixl, asKi encamped BATTLE OF SARATOGA. 137 in two lines, about two miles from Gen. Gates ; his left on the river, and his right extending at right angles to it, across the low grounds about six hundred yards, to a range of steep and lofty heights occupied by his elite, having a creek or gulley in his front, made by a rivulet which issued from a great ravine formed by the hills, which ran in a direction nearly parallel to the river, until within half a mile of the American camp." The Northern or Champlain canal, and ihe coach road, now cross the ground occupied by the American right, and soon afterward that occupied by the British lines. About half a mile south of the latter is the house of Major Uuel, who served as a guide to the troops, and now conducts travellers to the field. He is old and poor, but strong and active. The Battle Ground is on dii elevated plain, about two miles above General Gates's camp, and the same distance west from Smith's tavern. It may be taken in the way from the Springs, but it is better to go first to Smith's for a guide, and to take or prepare for refreshment. From Smith's to the battle eround, the road is quite romantic, along the south side of Cum- mingskill, with a steep bank on each side for part of the distance. Here Bui^oyne marched up to extend his right, and turn the American left. The open ground at the end is the field of battle. The most severe fighting in the first battle was at ajittle knoll, in a field on the south, passing two fences. Battle of Sept. 19th. In the morning, it was reported by Col. Colburn, who was watching the enemy, that they were begin- ning to ascend the hill towards the American left. Gen. Gates sent Col. Moigan to oppose them, and the ^ring began about noon. The action extended, and in three hours was general, and continued without interruption till dark. The American troops engaged mmsm l;38 KOLTE TU THE Sl'KlNUS. amounted to 3000 ; the British to 3500. The {ollowing account is from General Wilkinson. " This battle was perfectly accidental ; neither of the generals nneditated an attack at the time, and but for Lieut. Col. Colbu^n's report, it would not have taken place ; Bui"groyje'j movement being: merely to take g^round on the heights in front of the great ravine, to g:ive his several corps their proper places in line, to embrace our front and cover his transport, stores^ pro- visions, and bagrg^age, in the rear of nis left ; ana on our side, the defences of our camp being not half com- pleted, and reinforcements daily arriving, it was not General Gates's policy to court an action. The mis- conception of the adverse chiefs put them on the de- fensive, and confined them to the ground they casually occupied at the beginning of the action, and prevented a single manoeuvre, during one of the longest, warmest, and most obstinate battles fought in America. "The theatre of action was such, that although the combatants chansred ground a dozen times in the course of the day, the contest terminated on the spot where it began. The British line war* formed on an eminence in a thin pine wood, having before it FVeemnn's farm, an oblong field, stretching from its centre towards its right, the ground in front sloping gently down to the verge of this field, uhich was bordered on the oppo- site skde by a close wood. The sanguinary scene lay in the cleared ground, between the i minence occupied by the enemy, and the wood just described. The fire of our marksmen from this wood was too deadly to be withstood by the eneniy in line, and when they gave way and brcke, our men, rushing from their covert, pursued them to the eminence, where, having their flanks protected, they rallied, and, charging in turn, drove us back into the wood, from whence a dreadful fire would again force them to fall back ; and in this manner did le battle fluctuate, like the wavffs of a atormy sea, wpih alternate advantage for four hours, ['mission. tvithout one moment's interi The British artiN WATThL OF SAlJATOt^A. \6\) iory tell into our possession at every chargje, but wc could neither turn the pieces upon the enemy, nor bring them off, the wood prevented the last, and the want of a match the first, as the linstock was invaria- bly carried off, and the rapidity of the transitions did not allow us time to provide one. The slaughter of this brigade of artillerists was remarkable, the captain and thirty-six men being killed or wounded out of forty-eight. It was truly a gallant conflict, in which death by familiarity lost his terrors, and certainly a drawn battle, as night alone terminated it ; the British army keeping its ground in rear of the field of action, and our corps, when they could no longer distinguish objects, retiring to their own camp." The Interval between the two Battles. — This time, from Sept. 19th till Oct. 7th, was devoted to strength- ening their fortifications, and by Gen. Gates to collect- ing also large reintbrcenients of militia. Gen. Bur- goyne is said to have planned an attack on the 20th and Ust of September, but fortunntely delayed until the Americans were in the best situation to oppose him. Attacks on the British picquets took place almost every night, and they were continually harassed. Battle of October S. — Gen. Wilkinson gives the fol- lowing description of this battle. " The enemy were formed across a newly cultivated field, their grenadiers with ^^everal field pieces on the left, bordering on a wood and a small ravine formed by the rivulet before alluded to ; their light infantry on the right, covered by a worm fence at the fo" ' the hill before mentioned, thickly covered with ,.ood; their centre composed of British and German batta- lions. Col. Morgan, with his usual sagacity, proposed to make a circuit with his corps on our left, and under cover of the wood to gain the height on the right of the enemy, and from thence commence his attack, so soon as our fire should be opened against their left ; the plan was the best which could be devised, and no doubt 140 UOIITK TO THE SPRINGS. ! \ contributed essentially to the prompt and decisive vic- tory we gained. " This proposition was approved by the General, and it was concerted that time should be allowed the Colo- nel to make the proposed circuit, and gain his station on the enemy's right before the attack should be made on their left : P(»or's brigade was ordered for this ser- vice, and the attack was commenced in due season on the flank and front of the British grenadiers, by the New-Hampshire and New-York troops. True to his f)urpose, Morgan, at this critical moment, poured down ike a torrent from the hill, and attacked the right of the enen^ in front and flank. Dearborn, at the mo- ment when the enemy's light infantry were attempt- ing to change front, pressed forward with ardour and delivered a close fiie ; then leaped the fence, shouted, chained, and gallantly forced them to retire in dis- order ; yet, headed by that intrepid soldier, the Earl of Balcarras, they were immediately rallied and re- formed behind a fence in rear of their first position ; but being now attack* d with great audacity in front and flanks by superior numbers, resistance became vain, and the whole line, commanded by Burgoyne in person, gave way and made a precipitate and dis- oraerly retreat to his camp, leaving two 12, and six: 6 pounders on the field, with the loss of more than 400 omcers and men killed, woun* led, and captured, and, among them, the flower of his oflicers, viz : — Brigadier General Frazer,* Major Ackland, commanding the grenadiers. Sir Francis Clark, his first aid-de-camp, Major Williams, commanding officer of the artillery, Captain Money, deputy quarter-master-general, and many others. The ground which had been occupied by the British grenadiers presented a scene of com- plicated horror and exultation. In the square space * General Frazer was shot in lUc inondow, near the fence by the road side, just south ofthe blacksunth'sshop. The npot is inarkcil by the' tliird tree in a nnv of poplar? BATTLE Oi' bAUATOGA. Hi lit tvv»]ive or fifteen yards lay eia^hteen grenadiers in the agonies of death, and three officers propped up against stumps of trees, two of them mortally wounded, bleeding-, and almost speechless. " I found the courageous Colonel Cilley a-slraddle on a brass twelve-pounder, and exulting in the cap- ture. I pursued the hard-pressed flying enemy, pass- ing over killed and wounded, untii I heard one ex- claim, * Protect me. Sir, against 'his boy.* Turning my eyes, it was my fortune to arrest the purpose of a lad thirteen or fourteen years old, in the act of taking aim at a wounded officer vvho lay in the angle of a worm fence. Inquiring his rank, he answered, * I had the honour to command the grenadiers ;' of course, I knew him to be Mnjor Acklat>d, who had been brought from the field to this place, on the back of a Captain Shrimpton of his own corps, under a heavy fire, and was here deposited, to save the lives of both. I dis- mounted, took him by the hand, and expressed hopes that he was not badly wounded : ' not badly,' replied this gallant officer and accomplished gentleman, * but very inconveniently ; I am shot through both legs : will you, Sir, have the goodness to have me cof^veyed to your camp ''^ I directed my servant to alight, and we lifted Ackland into his seat, and ordered him to be conducted to head-quarters. I then proceeded to the scene of renewed action, which embraced Burgoyne's light flank defence, and extending to his left, crossed a hollow covered with wood, about 40 rods, to the in- trenchment of the light infantry. The roar of cannon and small arms at this juncture was sublime, between the enemy behind their works, and our troops entirely exposed, or partially sheltered by trees, stumps, or hoUows, at various distances, not exceeding 120 yards. ThivS right flank defence of the enemy, occupied by the German corps of Breyman, consisted of a breast- work of rails, piled horizontally between perpendicu- lar pickets, driven into the earth, en potcnce to the rest of his line, and extended to about '250 yards acro.'«sn?i 142 liULTE TO TllJi sriilxNGS. open'field, and was covered on the right by a batleiy of two guns. The interval from the left to the British light infantry was committed to the defence o( the ?rovincialists, who occupied a couple of log cabins, 'he Germans were encamped immediately behind the rail breastwork, and the ground in front of it de- clined in a very gentle slope for about 120 yards, when it sunk abruptly ; our troops had formed a line under this declivity, and, covered breast high, were warmly engaged with the Germans. From this position, about sunset, I perceived Brigadier-General Learned ad- vancing towards the enemy with his brigade, in open column, I think with Colonel M. Jackson's regiment in front, as I saw Lieutenant-Colonel Brooks, who commanded it, near the General, when I rode up to him. On saluting this brave old soldier, he inquired, ' Where can I put in with most advantage V I had particularly examined the ground between the left of the Germans and the light infantry, occupied by the provincialists, from whence I had observed a slack fire : I therefore recommended to General Learned to incline to his right, and att'*.ck at that point ; he did so with great gallantry ; the provincialists abandoned their position and flea ; the German flank was by this means uncovered ; they were assaulted vigorously, overturned in five minutes, and retreated in disorder, leaving their gallant commander, Lieutenant-Colonel Breyman, dead on the field. By dislodging this corps, the whole British encampment was laid open to us ; but the extreme darkness of the night, the fatigue of the men, and the disorder incident to undisciplined troops after so desultory an action, put it out of our power to iniprove the advantage ; and in the course of the night, General Burgoyne broke up his camp, and retired to his original position, which he had iortifi*id. behind the great ravine." The British lost, in killed, wounded, and prisoners, about 600 ; the Americans 319. The German officer.^ said they bad never before met so vigorous and terri „ BATTLE OP SAKATOUA. 143 , ble a fire. Several American officers who walked over the field after midnight, found no enemy to in- terrupt them. General Frazer^s Grave is on the hill a little west of Smith's. At his own request, he was buried in the great redoubt, the remains of which are plainly visible, Oct. 8th, frequent attacks were made on Gen. Balcarras' corps, and the British expected a general action. General Bur^oyne's Retreat commenced that night towards Lake George ; but he was pursued and in- tercepted so promptly, that he was obliged to stop and take a position at Schuylersville, near which he surrendered ten days after the battle. The place will be particularly noticed beyond. After perusing the foregoing descriptions of those two most important battles, the traveller will be pjreatly in- terested in learning that Smith's inn, to which he has before been directed, was at that period the garters of General Burgoyne. — The house now stands by the road side, but the place where it then was is a spot at the foot of the hill, and abcdt 200 yards from the river. The cellar is still to be seen, in a field near an apple tree, a little north of the road that crosses the canal. Willard's mountain is an emi- nence, a few miles off, on the opposite side of the river. During the last battle, the Americans had a few can- non on the rising ground above the eastern shore, a quarter of a mile above Smith's, and thence proceeded the shot of which the Baroness Reidesel speaks in the succeeding note. Several ladies of distinction were its inmates at the time when the British troops were here, being the wives of some of its principal officers. Among these were the Baroness ReideseL* with her * Extract of a letter from the Baroness^ afterward published in Ocr- inavy^ and lately in t/iis country. *' But severe trials awaited up, and on the 7tli of October, our mis fortunes began. I was at breakfast with my husband, and heard that .-io/npfhine wns inrendod. Ou ihe !«ame dnv I expected Generals Biiv KOtJTE TO THE SFRINGS. children, wife of General Reidesel, and Lady Harriet Ackland, wife of Major Ackland, commander of the goyne, Phtilipis, and Frazer to dine with us. I saw a great movenssnt among the troops ; my husband told me, it was merely a reconnolssanee, Avhich gave me no concern, as it often happened. I wallied out of the house and met several Ihdians in their war dresses, with guns in their hands. When 1 asked them where they were going, they cried out. War ! War ! (meaning they were going to battle.) This filled me with apprehension, and I scarcely got home before I heard reports of cannon and musketry, which grew louder by dRgreef<, till at last the noise be- came excessive. About 4 o'clock in the afternoon, instead of the guests wliom I expected, Gehcral Frazer was brought on a litter mortally wounded. The table, which was already set, was instantly removed, and a bed placed in its stead for the wounded General. I sat trembling in a corner ; the noise grew louder, and the alarm increased ; the thought that my husband mifrht perhaps be brought in, wounded in the same way, was terrible to me, and distressed me exceedingly. Gen. Frazer snid to tlie surgeon, " tell me if my wound is mortal ; dv not flatter mc." The ball had passed through his body, and, unhappily for the General, he had eaten a very hearty breakfast, by which the stomach was dis- tended, and the ball, as tiie surgeon said, had passed through it. I heard him often exclaim with a sigh, " Ob, fatal ambition ! Poor General Burgoyne ! Oh, my poor wife !" He was asked if he had any request to make, to which he replied, that •' If General Burgoyne would permit it, he should like to be buried at six o'clock in the evening on the top of a mountain, in a redoubt which had been built there." I did not kno«v which way to turn, all the other rooms were full of sick. Towards evening I saw my husband coming ; then I forgot all my sorrows and thanked God that he was spared to me. He ate in great haste with me and his aid-de-camp behmd the house. We had been told that we bad the advantage of the enemy, hut the sorrowful faces I beheld told a dif- ferent tale, and before i)iy hu<:hand went away, he took me one side, and said every thing wiis going very bad, that I must keep myself in i-eadincss to leave the place, but not' to mention it to any one. I made tlie pretence that I would move tiie tiext morning into my new house, and had every thing packed up ready. " Lady H. Ackland liad a tent not far from our house ; in this she slept, and the rest of the day she was in the camp. All of a sudden, a man came to tell her thiit her husband was mortally wounded and taken prisoner ; on liearing this she became very miserable ; we comforted her by telling her that the wound was only slight, and at the same time advised her to go over to her husband, to do which she would certainly obtain permission, and then she could attend him herself: she was a charming woman and very fond of him. I spent much of the night in comforting her, and then went again to my children whom I had put to bed. I could not go to sleep, as I had General Frazer and all the other wounded gentlemen in my room, and I was sadly afraid my children would awake, and by their crying disturb the dying man in his last mo- Jiients, who often addressed nie, and apologized '•'■for the trouble he rji« sad crjf-is. rt)'! I then wrapped up my children In thf'ir clothes, and y Harriet er of the it movenisnt onnolMance, 1 out of the guns in their ey cried out, iled me with is of cannon he noise be- of the gucstfl ,ter mortally ly removed, at trembling ; thetliought in the same Gen. Frazer . flatter me.'' ^ the General, ich was dis- irough it. I Poor General I any request vould permit on the top of lid not kno»v c. Towards sorrows and aste with me that we bad Id told a dif- ne one side, 3p myself in me. I made r new house, ; in this eh6 ' a sudden, a ed and talcen ire comforted lie same time uld certainly f: she was a ' the night in I I had put to all the other my children 1 his last mo- ke trouble he ould not hold • approach of • clothcp. and i iiii«lnM»«i every moment some officer of my acquaintance was broucht in wounded The can- nonade commenced acain ; a retreat vi ns spolcen of, but i.ot the :t;>'n, wliere my hiisbant^ was standing, amid the fire of the enemy, at •',, ri course, I could not think of my own dan- ger. General Gates after ;«ird said, that if be had known it had been a funeral, he would not have permitted it to be fired on." Lady Harriet Ackland went to the American camp after the action, to take caie of her husband, before the surrender, and the Baroness Reidesel afterward. They were both received with the greatest kindness and dellcaov. N 2 IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) 1.0 I.I ■50 "i^" mWKM S 1^ ilM 1-25 1.4 1.6 ^ 6" ► <^ ^ /} Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST UA:n STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 4r [f the Kevolutionary war ; for the u^ THC HPBI.NGS. natural military roufe between Canada and the United States lay through it, and the Five Nations of Indians were so near on the western side, and were so fre- quently passing over it on their war parties, that few white men were willing to encounter the dangers and risks to which such a residence must necessarily be exposed. For some years, the only place where visiters could find shelter here, was in a log house, near the Old Spring, which was for some time the only object of notice. The springs near the Sans Souci were subse- quently discovered, and have enjoyed their portion of celebrity. In 1817 four springs of different qualities were found near the great manufactory built by Mr. L6w. Their histoiy is worthy of attention, as it shows the singular changes which sometimes take place in this mysterious soil, where springs occasion- ally appear, change places, and disappear, without any apparent cau.se. Some surprising power is constantly at work somewhere beneath the surface, which the wisest students of nature are unable to explain or to comprehend. The branch of the Kayderosseros brook which flows through the Spa Village, was raised to an unusual height by a flood in the summer of 1817, and threw its current into a new channel, turher to- wards the east than its former one. The oM bed was thus left dry ; and four springs were found rising side by side, all of them within a space of about twenty feet square, and all of qualities entirely different. Qne resembled in some degree the Old Spring, but contained a surplus of carbonic acid gas ana sparkled like cbainpaign; the next contained much glauber salts, and was somewhat like the Congress Spring at Saratoga ; the third was brine, like sea water ; and the fourth perfectly fresh. A platform was raised that covered them all, and wooden tubes were sunk into the two first, which were only two or three feet apart ; and for three or four seasons they attracted all visiters, so much so that the Old Spring was desertedt ' "*■•"•■■ mfmmm BAUiSTON. 149 Tr t The first sprini^ was peciiliarly fine, and the favourite .of all; but it at lene:th began to lose its flavour»eas, and virtue ; and the tour springs now flow off tcgetner in a stream of almost pure water. The Old Spring was visited by Sir William Johnson before the Kevo- lutionary war, for his health. It was before known by reports of the Indians. * s; u^^^^n ^ j^ < ^ :■ »> /r^:' QUALITIES OF THE BALLSTON WATERS. JVew-Haveth^pril 21,18^4, ^ Dear Sir, You request my opinion of the mineral waters at Ballston Spa. They are in my view very valuable, and I can discern no serious reason why public opinion should be less favourable to them now than formerly. I became acquainted with the Old Spring, near Mr. Aldridge's, in consequence of using its waters unin- terruptedly at the fountain head, for a month, in the Autumn of 1797 ; and a residence of the same length of time, at Ballston Spa, during the last summer, gave me an opportunity of renewing my acquaintance with the Old Spring, and of becoming familiar also with those more recently discovered fountains, which have been opened and brought into use. The Old Spring appears, substantially, as it did in 1797, and is, I sup- pose, surpassed by no mineral fountain in the world as a brisk, copious, slightly saline, and strong chalybeate. The principal sprina* under the bath house, while it is also a brisk chalybeate, is besides in a high degree saline, and is probably unrivalled as a natural combi- nation of this class. Its cathartic properties are strong, and its tonic powers equally so. There is no spring, cither at Ballston Spa or Saratoga Springs, which I should prefer to this. 1 speak of my own cxpe- '^Mr. Sillimnn has analyzed tlie water of this spring, which ig now called tlie United Btiite.^i, and found half a gallon of it to contain 270 (uains of sah ; irun, iiine, and nia*i;nesia, ]00/ It is at onre highly salim* vnd rhnlvl)'»!ttp. wliirh is vitv rpni:irknh!f> sc:=: 150 I' HE dJ>l{IN only in a slight negtee. There is no reason why the establishments at Saratoga Springs and at Ballston Spa should regard each other with an unfriendly feeling. The accommodations of both are too good to need praise from me, and the bounty of the Creator has poured forth these fountains ot health, in the threat valley (for I regard the springs of Ballston Spa and Siaratoga as parts of one great system) with a profuse benevolence, unknown in any otner country. Nothing cati lexceed the variety, copiousness, and excellence of the springs at Saratoga — but those of Ballston Spa are in no respect, except that of number and variety, inferior to tlrem, and I trust the day is not distant, when a truly liberal feeling will, in both villages, lead to n^Mual commendation, and an amicable rivalry, .in effort? tb please and to accommodate their guests ; kiK) the salutary efiect will then, I am persuaded, soon be visible, ih the increased number of visiters, from eiety patt of this great continent; a number more thaAi sutncient to fill both villages, and fully to reward the spirited and liberal proprietors of their respective public establishments. With the best wishes for the prosperity of both places, I remain : - V » Your Obt. Servant, B. SILLIMAN. Low's Manufactory is four stories high, a^>out 170 feet long, and forty feet wide, with a large room in each of the three upper stories about 115 feet long. It is not used. There is a Readins Room and Circulating Library kept at the store of Mr. Comstock ; and a book is also to be seen, in which the names of visiters arriving at V GAL WAX, 161 the principal houses dre daily enteKed) for the iufonil- ation of others. t h"? n> i-!' » -*/? *h'*^ 'sritfir The Lover^s Leap is a precipice of 60 or 70 feet, "which overhangs the Kayaerosseros, tad overlooks a roniitntic and secluded little valley, at the distance of about half a mile from the springs. The road leads up the hill beyond Aldiidge's, and through a dark pine p^rove. A half-trodden path turns off at the right, and conducts to the ptecipice, which is a pleasant retreat in the heat ot the day, affording a fijie shade and fre- quently a pleasant breeze, as well as the view of a wild scene below, to which a steep descent conducts on the left hand. Ballston Lake is a pretty little sheet of water about four miles distant; out as Saratoga Lake is muck larger, more accessible, and mo^-e beautiful, and Is supplied with accommodations for tishin^ parties, it is more worthy of attention; we refer the stranger to the description of it on page 146. The distance is four and a half miles, and nve and a half frcnn Saro- toga Springs, It is only six miles from Ballston Spa to the south end, where is the finest view of it, on tne way to the battle ground. The road is rather stony and rough, but perfectly safe, and has some pleasant spots, and several extensive views. TheOreen Muim^ tains in Vermont piesent a very noble appe^arance ; and several ridges of hills between, afterward succeeded by the swelling and fertile shores of the Jiudson, fi»cm a various and delightful landscape. Mr, Simpson* St arm inGalwayi is 11 milos we3l from Ballston Springs^ ; i: ,. , «tf< ijjw .t^ Hh is an excellent farmer, and his house a vetf g^ood inn. Take the road up the sand hill by Aldn(%e'sr passing near the Lover^s Leap, and rollowifig the Johnstown road* His house is on a high ridge ofTand ; the tarm contains 800 acres, 360 of which are culti- vated, principally for grain and grass. He raise? 40 or 50 bushels of wheat to an acre by late ploughing, about three inches deep. He soaks his seed wheat in wm "■^mpwupPSIw ■fHOTpRJllOTipW IdJsJ TIIL &L*iii^G6. n m brine, and rolls it in lime to preserve it Iruni iiijiect^^ Other seeds he rolls in plaster. He has raised 700 bushels of potatoes to an acre. His corn is planted two feet apart one way^ and two and a half the other. His fences are of stone and wood — a low stone wally with timber in it, to secure the parts above srround. A fence of two rails is thus made above ; the rails being of plank, about four inches wide. Of this kind of fence, he has on bis iarm what would measure 16 miles. -« -^^ The place enjoys so fine and healthy a situation, and the inn is so well kept, bein^ one of the best in this part of the country, that it is the resort of many vi- siters from different quarters, who frequently spend days or weeks there. The charges are more moderate than at the Springs. iii' i The view is commanding, and the air fine. From an eminence west of the house, no less than 13 coun- ties may be discovered. The church is half a mile distant} and the road from Ballston pretty good. i-^«fm 'i- ^ ! ' REMARKS ON THE ROUTES. j^^.'n: *'* f>»jj At the Springs many a traveller has to aTrdnge his future journeys, either for business or pleasure ; and as Balaton and Saratoga are pre-eminently places of leisure, some general nints concerning the different routes will not be misplaced. ** ' ' jyorth. The roads to Lake George, Lake Cham- plain» Montreal, &c., belonging more properly to Sara- toga, will be given under that head. ^ East, The traveller is referred to the same place and Albany for the roads leading into New-England. South, Three or four steamboats leave Albany for New- York eveiy day, and as many arrive from that city. Several also ply every week between New- York and other pomts. They touch at numerous points on the river, so that passengers can land where tbej please. The newspapers will furhish all nece^- uiiiau»muiJU«l'i ^aa Pt»»"»»W|W^WW"»WWW 11 iiisecL^. aised 700 is planted the other, ow • stone lis above le above; nde. Of lat would ation* and est in this many vi- itly spend moderate e. From 1 13 coun- Eilf a mile od. ■■' '■ r-* rstnge his iure ; and places of different :e Cham- y to Sara- ime place Ingland. LlBany for from that en New- numerous nd where all neceF- ■H i. >r. .. -'* * f '-■ , - -i*' - W^' '^f^v % ' * M- t ^ ' JlllV ■"^ffrr.wvw •^■■"-r' i T.MJK'" ' 'W\?P lf» '<•«■ J(11 ■^^. < •^ Vi „ ^ . , . ^ ^1 ^■-•^t , wjfMr— ^''""-'^■~ - ■ - SAKATOi^A. 163 50 ftary intuniialion concernira^ their periods uf departure and return ; and coaches from the Springs so regulate their time as to accommodate the traveller. There are severai roads to Albany: by Waterfordy and Troj, or Gibbonsville, and by Schenectady. From Waterford you may take either side of the river. On the west side are the Cohoes Falls, the remarkable ''nine locks" on the Erie Canal, the junc- tion of the two canals, and route of the former quite to Albany. On the east side the road passes over a bridge to Lansingburgh, through Troy, and recrosses by a good and safe ferr^. (See Index.) The second road, which ^oes through Schenectady, is rather circuitous, but will give the stranger an op- portunity of travelling 27 mUes on the Erie Canal, along the course of the Mohawk. Irest. The grand western route, through Utica, and leading to Niagara and Lake Erie, haa been al- f ready traced out. The nearest point on this route is Schenectady, whence the traveller may proceed up the Mohawk, either by the stage road, or in the canal boats. The direct road to Schenectady, however, is sandy, and quite uninteresting. .■••rt- • •• » i^ SARATOGA SPRINGS are 7 miles from Ballston Springs, and a coach gene- rally passes between these two places every day ; besides a number of other carriages on their way from Albany, &c. What is called the regular price for these 7 miles is 50 cents for a seat. The old ro^d < is level and sandy, &nd if the weather be dry the tra- veller will probably be incommoded with dust, unless he rides in the morning or evening, when the ground is moist with the dew. The new road passes over higher ground, and is pleasanter and harder, al* JJ,^ though somewhat longer. You may pass out by th^ rt)ifrt-hoirse, €a:st, or turn to the right lust below (ha o P»'(""iiW'"WPif|WlWipi!|»!P«w»?fW ■pnpi 154 TUE sruiiVGd. Sans Souci. You enjoy some fine views of the dis" tant bills and mountains ; and the soil and crops are generally much better than on the old road. Saratoga is quite concealed until you are within a short distance, and then the clusters of frail board buildings which sprinjg: up amon^ the stumps of trees lately tolled in the skirts of the p\ne forest, show what an unnatural surplus of population the i)lace contains during the visiting season, which is principally in July and August. It may not be unseasonable to mention here the principal houses in the order in which they are supposed to stand on the list of gentility : the Con« gress Hall, $10 per week ; United States Hotel, do. ; the Pavilion, do. ; and Union Hall $8. ,0n reaching the brow of a bill which descends into the village, tne street lies in full view, with all the principafhouses. On the right is Congress Hall three stories high with a row of 17 columns, risine; from the ground to the eaves ; opposite is Union Hall with a row of 10 similar columns ; over which are seen the brick walls of the United States Hotel ; and still be- yond, on the other side, the roof of the Pavilion. From this view the village is represented in the ac- companying print, which was taken on the spot. On reaching the foot of the hill, the Congress Spring, the great attraction of the place, is seen at a short dis- tance on the right, usually surrounded with a throng of pecple. . Congress Hall / has generally enjoyed the highest favour among the most fashionable visiters at Saratoga, on account of its fine and imposing appearance, its contiguity to the Spring, the number and size of its apartments, and the style in which it is furnished and kept. It is 196 feet long on t) i street, with two wings oi 60 feet run- ning back, and contains lodging for 150. The first floor in front is divided in the Tollowing manner : a mmim*mmm SC SABATOtiA. 155 dining room in the middle, capable of containing tables for all the house can accommodate ; next the dancing hall, about 80 feet long, and south the ladies* private parlour. The price of board is $10 per week. The United States Hall is a fine building of brick, three stories high, vrith a colonade rising only to the second story. This house is excellently well kept, and is more substantially built than any of the rest, which are of a li^ht construction, fit only for the mildest weather ; but it is deficient in public rooms, in which particular Congress Hall so much excels. It is also raised so high from the street as not to be convenient of access, although some pre- fer it on that very account. The Pavilion. This is a veiy good house for one of its size, and will be found free from much of the bustle of the larger ones, while it is often the resort of much company in the visiting season. Those who wish to drink often of the Flat Rock w ater will prefer it, as that Spring is only a few steps from it in the rear. There is a fine bathing house connected with it, and a shady little wood not far beyond by the road side, on the way to the Round Rock Spring. Union Hall is the resort of those who wish to have the most con- venient access to the waters of the Congress Spring, or to participate more moderately in the amusements of the place, and to avoid the inconveniences of gayetv and mirth, produced by the continued round of balfs nod dances in the other principal houses. a \u THE SPRINGS. The Congress Spring, which, as was before remarked, is the great soured from which this place derives its celebrity and its show of wealth and importance, was discovered by- Mr. Putnam. He built the first house near it for the accommodation of invalids, which was subsequently enlarged to the present Union Hall, now kept by his son. The Congress Spring was long concealed by the neighbouring brook which formerly passed over it ; but its valuable qualities beinp: discovered, it has at- tracted universal attention, and the benefits of its wa- ters are annually dispensed to thousands. Mr. Silliman gives the following analysis : half a gallon contains 320 grains of salt, 26 lime and mag- nesia, with a slight trace of iron. The Flat Rock Spring is near the upper end of the street, and in the rear of the Pavilion. In composition and (]ualities it bears a resemblance to the Washington Spring at BaUstorif but is far inferior. It is a chalybeate water, and the best of the kind in the place. It is situated on the margip of the little valley in which all the springs are founds and the Pavilion will prove a pleasant house to inva- lids s^nd others who wish to drink of it frequently. The Round Rock Spring. ■.'1 This Spring is worthy of a visit merely as a natural curiosity : the water, although for a time much cele- brated, and indeed the only attraction of which Sara- toga could boast, having gone into disrepute, since the discovery of the sources already mentioned. It is a feeble chalybeate with little taste and little effect. The water rises in a small rock of calcareous tufa, of a conical form, with a circular hole in the middle, about five- inches io diameter. The rock is abont fivr^ 4 n mtt i.l iii l,M!lui!iMU. i iJ Ba8M SARATOGA. 16' feet Ihrougfh at the base, and has evidently been pro- duced by the layers of lime deposited by the water. Many of the rocks in the neiglibourho<)a contain a large quantity of lime, where the carbonic acid of the water probably obtains the supply which it afterward deposites here. The gradual accretion which is thus constantly going on is very apparent even to a hasty observer. That part of the rock which is most ex- posed to the dripping of water taken out in cups through the hole in the top, is always smooth and even, while other parts are rough and broken. Fractures made by visiters are sometimes found half obliterated by a recent coat of calcareous matter formed in this manner. A horizontal rock, apparently of similar formation, extends for a considerable distance under the surface of the ground ; and indeed it might be supposed to re^ch to some of the springs which rise in different places along the valley above. The water, according to common report, formerly flowed over the top, but has for many years found its way below, through a crevice produced by a large forest tree which feU and cracked tbe rock. •^ Saratoga Lak^:. An excursion to this beautiful piece of water, is one of the most agreeable that can be made in amr di- rection. It is Si miles distant, in a south-easteiw di- rection, and is frequently visited by parties from Balls- ton, as well as Saratoga Springs, as a good house has been lately erected on the shore, and furnished with every accommodation, by Mr. Riley. Sailing and fishing on the lake form the amusements of the ex- cursion. The first part of the way is by the eastern road to Ballston Spa ; and after turning to the left and ridin;;^ to vvithin naif a mile of the lake, a fine view opens from the top of a hill. The eye embraces a part of this fine slreet of water, with its sloping and verdant O 2 .iM'"!"U'(<'illl4WlltU|I.HUII.Ifi)l!l|l|UW'^i^'' ' '"i"iisp«;fli»uip«i",.' isa TUti SPRtNOB. tflhoresy generally divided by square fields; W4ih a distant view of the Green Mountains. At a considerable distance from the shore, is erected A stage, 16 by 14 feet, a little raised above the water, and capable of containing thirty people. The lake is there about seven feet deep, and the spot is excel- lent for fishinc:. Parties of ladies and gentlemen are taken off in boats, and in hot weather an awning is spread to shade them from the sun. On the opposite side of the lake is a remarkable rocky and woody hill, of a rounded form, which is connected with the shore only by a narrow neck. The deepest water is two miles below, at Drowned Meadow Cove, where it is 160 or 170 feet to the bot- tpip. The road running north from Riley's is plea- sant, but reaches only half a mile. The lake extends seven miles in length, and is two in breadth. The shores are bold ancTvaried, gently descending with a smooth slope to the margm, or rising in rugged cra&:s from the water's edge ; some- times soAened and beautified by the hand of cultiva- tion, and sometimes abandoned to all their native wildness. If the wind and weather are favourable, the visiter may expect good sport in fishing ; and if not, he may calculate on a dinner table well supplied by other and more fortunate adventurers. There are also manv kinds of wild fowl, birds, Lc. in the neighbourhood, so that a sportsman may find great amusement here. There is a house at the north end of the lake, 4 miles from Saratoga Springs, kept by Mr. Green, near the ferry, where also visiters are accommodated. Trout Fishir^. Two miles eastward from the Springs, is a Trout Pond, to which sportsmen fre- quently resort. The Reading Room. Strangers will find newspa- pers from different parts of the country, and will be able to supply themselves with books of different de* scriptioDE, to beguile their leisure hours. The Read-; :;:..u;jiLiu..^!.^jii.; ' !g ajLVi^ajs SARATOGA. 159 lOg Room is at the Book Store of Mr. Davison, a little beyond the United States Hotel. A Record will also be found at the same place* into which the arrivals and departures of visiters are copied, once a daj, fron^ the books of the four principal houses. If any one expects to meet a friend here, or wishes to learn whetner he has already left Sara- toga, he has only to refer to this list and look for his name. SCHU YLERSV ILLE, 12 m. from Saratoga, seven miles from the battle-ground. A stage coach leaves Saratoga Springs three mornings in the week, which passes through this place. At this village is the place where Gen. Buigoyne was forced to stop on his retreat, on account of the flood in Fish Creek, the outlet of Saratoga Lake ; and at Fort Hardy, which then stood on its banks, he surrendered to Gen. Gates on the 17th October. The traces of his camp are stili very discernible, in embankments, ditches, &c. and the house in which he had his head-quarters stood till within a few years. • Tub British Camp, one mile from the Fishkill, and opposite the Batenkill Creek. From the hill where the British encampment was formed, a fine and extensive view may be had, upon the route towards Bemis's Heights. General Buigoyne occupied the night of October 8th, and the following day, m getting to this place, although it is but 7 mues, on account of the miserable state of the roads. Here he was detained for several days by the swelling of the waters of the creek : and when he crossed the stream, he left his hospital with 300 sick and wounded, who were treated by Gen. Gates with every attention. Here the further retreat was cut off: for the Ameri- mmmm \iiO Tl^C SPBINGS. t cans were found in possession of the fords of the Hud- son. Gen. Burgoyne therefore took his last position ; and Gen. Gates formed his camp behind, while Mor- gan took post on the west and north of the British, and Gen. Fellows, with 3000 men^ was stationed on the opposite side of the river. American troops were also in Fort Gdward, and on the high ground towards Lake George. While remaining in this situation, the British were continually exposed to the fire of their enemies, as well as reducf'd by want of provision. Six days passed thus ; when on the 17th of October, 1777, a conven- tion was signed, and the army, being marched to the meadow near Old Fort Hardy, piled their arms and surrendered prisoners of war, to the number of 5752 effective, with 528 sick and wounded. This meadow is in sight from the inn. The House of Gen, Schuyler stood on the spot now occupied by that of his grandson. It was burnt by Burgoyne on his retreat, together with his mills ; not- withstanding which, the British officers were after- ward received at his house in Albany, and treated with great kindness. Remarks on the Routes. North, — Three great routes from the Springs to- wards the north may be particularized, although they run almost side by side, and all unite on arriving at Lake Champlain. 1st, The fashionable route, to Caldwell, on Lake Geoige. 2d, The Northern, or Champlain Canal. 3d, The road to Whitehall, the direct route on the way to Montreal.* The first of these is usually travelled by strangers of tastie and leisure, as it conducts directly to the tine scenery of Lake George, and the battle-grounds in its ♦There also are two stage routes to Montreal, one on each 8l«ie of Lake CIramplain. Tbe mall now coes to Montrea! (taiJy. SASATOGA. 101 vicinity; and passes near several other spots of high interest for their historical associations, it is with a particular view to this route, that the places soon to be mentioned will be arran^^ed and described. Even if a journev to Montreal is intended, it can hardly be too urgently pressed upon the stranger to devote a leisure day or two to Lake Geoige on his way, as he will find himself most amply rewarded, and can join thegreat route with facility at Ticonderoga. The second routCj by the Northern Canal, may be met near the battle'Cround at Bemis^s Heights : but it has hitherto offered in this part no boat expressly for passengers. In fine weather, however, gentlemen may travel very pleasantly for a few miles in the common freight boats. The i/drd route is the road to Whitehall, which is furnished with public carriages from the Springs during the warm season, and, like the canal, passes near some of the interesting places to be mentioned hereafter. From Whitehall the traveller may proceed down Lake Chainplain in the daily steamboats, or by land in the mail coach. East, — Travellers wishing to go to any part of the country in this direction, may take their choice of several routes. Lines of stage coaches run to Con- necticut river from Burlington, Middlebury, Castleton, and Granville, as well as from Troy and Albany, in various directions — to Hanover,Brattleborough, Green- field, i^orthampton, Springfield, Hartford ; and there subdividing into numerous ramifications, offer the means of conveyance to every part of New-England. To meet most of these routes, it will be necessary to proceed to some point nortli or south of the Springs, for which public carriages are established in several directions from Saratoga and Ballston, concerning which, arrangements may be made at the bar of the house where the stranger is lodged. It is also important to mention, that two lines of rnachep run along the courses of Hudson River and 162 BXCVBSION TO LAKE GE0B6E. M Wood Creek, one on each side ; and that the eastern one carries the mail through Castleton, Middlebury, Burlington, &c. along the course of Lake Champlain, though generally at too great a distance to command a view of it. The country there is very fine, the vil- lages beautiful, and the surface frequently mountainous. This road meets several of the eastern roads ; but the traveller will probably prefer to take one of the four steamboats, as he can land at the most important points. The most interesting route that can be chosen by a man of taste, from the Springs to Br ston, is through Vermont to the White Mountains, and Winnipiseogee Lake in New-Hampshire. He may take what road he pleases to Connecticut River. For the roads leading sotUh and west from the Springs he is referred directly to Ballston, where those routes are particularly mentioned and described. If he has never visited the Battle Ground at Bends' s Heights, or, as it is usually called, of Saratoga, it may be recommended to him to take that interesting place In his way, and to refer to page 135 for the descrip- tion of it. EXCURSION TO LAKE GEORGE, 27 miles. This is by far the most delightful, as well as fashion- able excursion which can be made from the Springs in any direction, as it abounds with some of the finest scenery in the United States, and in numerous sites and objects intimately connected with the history of the country. A stage coach leaves Saratoga Springs every morn- ing for Caldwell, at the south end of the lake, passing through Glenn's Falls. ■ ■ ' From the time of the earliest wars between the . British colonies and the French in Canada, to that of 1755, the tract over which part of our route lies was the high road of war. It was traversed by many a le eastern ddlebury, lamplain, command e, the vil- untainous. oads; but ►ne of the important losen by a is through lipiseogee ivhat road he Springs lose routes ■ t'-j''^'. , *i .' ' ry-v /' \iM i ,— -t^^Jfci «1*W» at Bemis's ^a, it may itin^ place le descrip- 7 miles. as fashion- le Springs f the finest erous sites history of "■'■'i^^^ ■ ■*^:;WFr*' '?.-'>if_ ,', ^r.^ ■■■■ ■ : •. ■. , .^ ■ ■ ■;''o' ^/K*^:? V?t?ii'>-, !*^ ^'::-^i ■:■ ■ ' :/;-■' ' • , •■.;)y^i^i^> ■; ^■'' -;^^-^'' «''•■! J ,^^#^^^:,, ^,« ; -t.j -'i ,•> .: -vt'^Hs.;^.: i; ■/■..■• ; ■i} :f v>-i'; '^f* ..'*.: T.,. ^eiy mom- ce, passing tween the , to that of :e lies was by many a Xf-^ ':. ^ff-f ;h."u''} ,.j J*- ..,.'firv^ ' -jvi;./ ^t^i -". y^^ikii:f,>^'<*r :si'-# •{'S^ ■, '^l-i^n> with •ands its Lce, is a )rospect untains, p blue. on the ; while nearest 11, com- 1 seclu- spot, are the famous site of he was action 33 33 5 ich the g lake, ross its >^^ » •' *< •• *0* mmm .% '' LAKE GEOUGE. 1(57 beautiful waters. The village stands at the south end of the lake, and on its shore, commanding a fine view of the neighbouring sheet of water and the mountains by which it is almost enclosed. The inn to which strangers resort, occupies a spot peculiarly fitted to grati^ the eye of taste, as it overlooks the lake for several miles, and the view is not interrujpted by any neighbouring obstacle. A more delightful place can hardly be found in the Uniied States, for the tempo- rary residence of one who takes delight in scenery of this description, and loves to recur to deeds long past, and to exploits great in themselves and important in their results even to the present day. Lake George is 34 miles long, and its greatiest breadth 4. At the south end it is only about one mile broad. The greatest depth is sixty fathoms. The water is remarkable for its purity — a fish or a stone may be seen at the depth of 20 or 30 feet. It is un- doubtedly supplied by springs from below, as the water is coldest near the bottom. It contains trout» bass, and perch. There are deer in the neirhbouring^ forest. The outlet which leads to Lake Cnamplain contains three large falls and rapids. The lake never rises more than two feet. The three best points of view are at Fort George, a place north of Shelving Rock, 14 miles, and another at Sabbath Day Point, 21 miles from the head of the lake. The last view is taken southward, the other two northward. This beautiful basin, with its pure crystal water, is bounded by two ranges of mountains, which, in som*» places rising with a bold and hasty ascent from the water, and in others descending with a graceful sweep from a great height to a broad and level mar- gin, furnish it with a charming variety of scenery, which every change of weather, as well as every change of position, presents in new and countless beauties. The intermixture of cultivation with the wild scenes of nature is extremely agreeable ; and 168 EXCURSION TO LAKE GE0U6E. the undulating; surface of the well-tilled farm is often contrasted with the deep shade of the native forest^ and the naked, weather-beaten cliffs^ where no vege- tation can dwell. The situation of the hotel is delightful, surpassing that of almost every other to be found in this part of the country. The traveller may hereafter take plea- sure in comparing the scene enjoyed from his window, with those he may witness from the walls of Qjuebec, Masonic Hall at Montreal, and Forsyth's at Niaf^ara. The house is very large, having been increased wjlhin a year or two by the addition of a long wing, three stories high, so that it is now capable of furnishing lodgings for one hundred persons, and the apartments are so aiTanged, that half of them look out upon the lake. Affreen and handsome slope descends about 200 yards to the very mai^in, where there is no obstruction but a few trees ind scattering buildings. There is the wharf, at which the steamboat receives and lands her passengers, often adding much variety to the place by an addition of company. The dis- charge of the signal gun makes fine echoes among the mountains in a cMear ni^ht. The lake is here al)out three-quarters of a mile wide, and the range of mountains opposite, which are high and uninterrupted, are quite uncultivated, with th»* exception of a few farms near the shore ; the other parts being covered with trees almost to the water. On the right is seen the south end of the lake, which is formed of low land for some distance back, suc- ceeded by French Mountain in the rear. On a little point, half covered with trees, and rising only about 25 feet above the water, is the site of Fort William Henry ; and about a mile towards the south-east from it, on a considerable elevation, are the ruins of Fort George. For the history of these once important little fortresses, see pajje 170. LAKJ: GROUUE. ]fr'J Excursions on the Lake, Fishing, Im« iGareTcept at /^^^t Boais arelcept at the wharf to convey passengers to any part of the neighbouring shores and islands. Fine perch, or black bass, (Perca Franklinia)^ are caught in abundance almost every where ; and trout, at the mouth of a small stream near the south end. Fishing rods and tackle may be obtained at the hotel ; and a variety of other fish are to be found. Diamotid Island is a few miles down the lake, and is famous for abounding in crystals of quartz, which are found in a loose rock by digging a little under the sur- face. They are found, however, in egual numbers in several of the other islands ; and it is, after all, the easier way to purchase them, and not to permit the labour of searching for them to interfere with the plea- sure of the excursion, particularly as that labour is often ineffectual. A poor family lived on Diamond Island, subsisting partly on a small spot of tilled land, and partly on the produce of the crystals sold to visiters. Tea Island J about 2 miles down the lake, is another favourite retreat. The little bay in which the boats land is remarkably retired and beautiful, and there is an old hut standing which affords something of a shelter. Long Island contains about 100 acres, and has been inhabited and cultivated. Besides these, there are many other islands on the neighbouring parts of the lake ; and those who are fond of such excursions would be highly delighted with devoting several days to visit them. The finest cluster is in the Narrows, about 12 miles distant. These will be spoken of hereafter. One steamboat usually goes three times a week to the north end of the lake : but is always ready to per- 170 EXCURSION TO LAKE OEOHOE. form that exc "sion, and will take a party of twenty or more for $1 each. West of the village is a remarkable conical eminence, called Rattlesnakes^ Cobble^ or Prospect Hill. This, as well as the mountains bej^ond it, is the habitation of bears and deer, and much infested with rattlesnakes. The view from the top is very fine. It is the place from which Hawk-eye, in the ** Last of the Mohicans," leads his companions into Fort William Henry through the mist. The French Approaches. The village of Caldwell is of recent date. In the French war, during the siege of Fort William Henry, the ground which it now occu- pies was crossed by the trenches and batteries with which Montcalm finally succeeded in forcing the capi- tulation of that little fortress. The place where he landed with his army is the little cove just behind the new stone building, a few steps north of the hotel. He erected his battery near the shore, and ran his first trench across the street into the fields in front of the hotel. The remains may still be traced, as well as the marks of a small mortar bat- tery, near the bars of a fence leading to a small house. Another line runs to the bank of the lake, on this side of the brook, where was also a battery ; and another borders the swamp to the right, and another turns southward along the high ground. Behind this, in a pine wood, are the graves of about 1000 French sol- diers, who died in the fort. Battle of Lake George. In 1755, the year after the commencement of the French War, 3000 men were sent out from France to Qyebec, for the purpose of taking Oswego Fort. This was situated at the mouth of the Oswego or Onon- dago River, and on the shore of Lake Ontario. The position derived its consequence from circumstances which no longer exi^t : the Indian trade from up th^ JEiATTLU OF LAKE G£OfiO£. I7i Lakes, the facility of communication with the Five Nations through that place, and the peculiar nature of the shores of Lake Ontario, which would not permit navigation (by canoes) on the other side. There the two great branches of Indian trade concentrated ; and the nation which held possession of the point neces- sarily swayed a great influence over the Indians them- selves : an advantage frequently of still greater impor- tance to the country. Oswego Fort naturally f)ecame an object both to the French and the English at that time, and it formed a prominent figure in the history of the war. The English being in possession of that little fortress at the commencement of hostilities, its defence might doubtless have been easily secured, had their operations been conducted with common prudence and enei^y. Unfortunately, they were con- ducted in a very different manner ; and whoever would see a clear and able history of the first English expe^ dilions in that war, and of the political party spirit which then ruled in this country and rendered them worse than ineffectual, is referred to " A Letter to a Lord,'^ written soon after. In 1755, Gen. Johnson, (afterward Sir William,) marched to the south end of Lake George with a con- siderable number of men, joined by the famous Capt. Hendrick, with many Indians of the Five Nations, m- tending to take Fort Frederick, now Crown Point. Gen. Dieskau was sent to oppose him, with 3000 men, principally taken from a body of French troops sent out to Qjuebec, 600 of whom had fallen into tile hands of Admiral Boscawen at sea. Dieskau bad first de- signed to besiege Fort Oswego. At Fort Frederick, or Crown Point, he remained some time, and then de- termined to go and meet the English. He therefore went up the South Bay, where, learning the situation of Fort Lyman (now Fort Edward,) he wished to attack it and cut off the retreat of Gen. Johnson. The Indians and Canadians, however, were in dread of the ■Hi 172 EXCURSION 3?0 LAKE OEOUGi:. cannon with which it was supposed to be defended, and he was obliged to march apinst Jolinson. Sunday, Sept. 7th, at midnight, a scout brought Johnson intelligence that Dieskau was coming. 1200 men were sent out in the morning, under the command of Col. Ephraim Williams, who met them at Rocky Brook, drawn up in a semicircle, into which the English entered uefore they knew it. A heavy fire from three sides first showed them the position oi their enemies. The English stood their ground valiantly ; but Col. Williams and Hendrick being both shot down, together with many others, they were obliged to be- gin their retreat, which was conducted by Col. Whi- ting with the greatest coolness and success. The centre of the English army was posted on the hill where the ruins of Fort George now are ; and the French were discovered by them at half past 11. Dieskau halted at the sight of his enemies, probably entertaining some mistaken idea of the strength of their position, and gave them time to recover from their panic. The ground on both sides of the English camp was marshy and covered with trees, and Dies- kau sent his Indians out on the right fiank and the Canadians on the left, to surround them. Col. Pome- roy, however, soon put the former to flight with a few cannon shots. Dieskau then brought up his troops in front, and made them fire by platoons, but with very little effect. Gen. Johnson (happily for his own troops) was slightly wounded in tne thigh, and had to walk back tc^ his tent, leaving the command with Gen. Lyman. He directed the defence for five hours, aided by Capt. Eyre's artillery ; when the French turned upon the English right, which consisted of Kuggles'g, Portieroy's, and Tittecomb's reatmenis, and extended from the road to wh«re Fort William Henry was after- ward built. Here they fought an hour, but the English and Indians charging them, they took to flight and many were killed. Gen. Dieskau himself UASSACRE AT FORT \eiJXIAM UBNBY. 11 o was found leaning against a stump wounded-^a sol- dier approaching saw him put his hand to his waist, to take out his watch, whicii he intended to offer to him, and supposing he was drawing a pistol, shot him through the tbieb. He was carried to the fort by eight men in a blanket, and it i^ said deterred Johnson from ordering a pursuit, by saying he had a strong force near at hand. Gen. Lyman urged to fol- low up their victory ; but that was probably a suffi- cient reason for its being refused by a superior officer, who looked upon his great talents with jealousy, and, in spite of the advantage the country had derived from his services, at a time when they were pecu- liarly valuable, did not even mention the name of Gen. Lyman in his account of the battle ! — Johnson was made a Baronet, ami Lyman lingered out a few years in poverty and disappomtment, and died without re- ceiving even the notice of the British government. The £nglish are said to have lost CHiIy SI 6 in killed and 96 wounded. Gen. Dieskau estimated his own loss at 1000 — the English called it much less. The principal were a major-general, and M. de St. Pierre, the commander of the Indians. The French lost their baggage during the action, left two miles in their rear^ it being attacked (»y Captains Folsom and M'Ginnies with Jibout 100 New-York troops ; who then lay in >vait for the retreating French, and killed great num- bers of them. Gen. Johnson might have taken Crown Point ; but he delayed it so long, that the French advanced to Ticonderoga and there fortified themselves securely. The Capture and Massacre op Fort William Henry. So different was the state of the country sixhr years ago, and so much in its infancy was the art of war in these wild regions, tha- a small work of earth thrown up on this site, and called Fort William Henry, was : it 174 £XCVBSIOM TO LAKB GEOliOE. regarded as a fortress of considerable strength and con* seguence. in 1767, the Earl of Loudon, British Commander-in- Chief in America, made an unsuccessful attemot by sea against Louisburg ; and before his return to New- York in August, the French from Ticonderoga, under the Marquis de Montcalm, had made three attacks on Fort William Henry. On the 1st of August they set out again, and landed at Frenchman's Point. On the evening of the 2d, they crossed to the west side of Lake George, within two miles of the Fort, and the next morning sent in their summons. Col. Monroe defended himself resolutely for six days, hoping relief from Gen. Webb and his 6000 men at Fort Edward ; but having waited in vain, and burst ten of his largest cannon, he was obliged to surrender, and marcned out with the honours of war and an assurance of being protected from the Indians in Montcalm's army. He had gone but a little way, however, when the savages fell upon hi'. -^' I- ) ■ ■(-..■ V; ....... „. ■■* ."y ■ ■;■ 'I.*- :,;g^; i-n ■V '■4', .,' / ^., ■ t^,. ;c.)-: '•.>;^v ^ a 7>nj;.<'-? ,.»*«'. ^■.y: ^^'''S 'i^^' 'W^ -''^;-' ■ .-fe"-. ■ V, «':-fi :i.j>;?~^:ij.-n.ir .-^ ^..- ■- tl: "A'- ,v.^ '■■■>^^'' .^^■.>sj<*' f^''^ ■. ■:■ - -I ■ % ■ „^ "j .■<«>.). or^-. -'-T.tt ■• . - -W ?-•"•>■'■ ■"■!^^' '■*^-'! '..S''' ^--''^- . ^•c^, wt^^pp""" i»5»rA__^ \ k ■i . •»f:- toMiadltbwy M LAKE t;E0iii3^l!:. 17i podod vvitti iru^t charming variety. Sometimes an island will be observed just large enough to support a few fine tree.s, or perhaps a single one, while the next may appear like a solid mass of bushes and wild flowers ; near at hand, perhaps, is a third, with a dark grove of pines, and a decaying old trunk in front of it ; and thus, through every interval between the islands as you pass along, another and another labyrinth is opened to view, among little isolated spots of ground, divided by narrow channels, from which it seems im- possible for a person who should have entered them, ever to find his wa^ out. Some of the islands look almost like ships with their masts ; and many have an air of lightness as if they were sailing upon the lake. After passing the Narrows, the lake widens again, and the retrospect is, for several miles, through that passage, with Tongue Mountain on the west, and Black Mountain opposite, the Luzerne range appearing at a great distance oetween them. The mountains in view have generally rounded summits ; but the sides are in many places broken by precipitous ledges. They are inhabited by wolves, deer, rattlesnakes, &c. Sabbath Day Point. — This is a low neck of land, stretching into the lake from the Western shore, and containing the little village of Hague. That on the opposite shore is Putnam. On Sabbath Day Point, Lord Amherst, with his numerous host, stopped for refreshment upon the morning of the Sabbath, and gave this beautiful point the name by which it is now known : it is a charming .«pot, and susceptible of the greatest embellishment. Rogers' Rock and Anthony's Nose. These are two mountains at which the lake again contracts itself to pass between them. The shores ot" the lake still continue elevated, and but a few cult:- vated farms are distinguishable here and there. An- f honv'p Nose presents a precipice, on the eastern Fhorr. (I 178 EXCUBSION TO LAKE GKOliiiH. I as we enter the strait ; and the firing of a sun pioduoeM a fine echo. Rogers' Rocky or Rogers' Slide is a still more formidable one, on the other hand, a little further on. The last retrospect up the lake is still very line, even from this pomt — Black Mountain being yet clearly to be seen. Rogers' Slide has its name from Capt. Rogers, a partisan officer, who distinguished himself m the French war by his boldness, activity, and success. He commanded an expedition which left Crown Point m the year 1756, against the Canadian frontiers, and cut oflf the Indian village of St. Francis, afterward returning', with the severest hardships, by the way of Connecticut river. Tradition says, that he was, at another time, closely pursued by a party of Indians, and forced to retreat to the verge of this mountain. Finding no other way to escape, he descended half down by the ravine which opens towards the south, and then by a sudden turn came to the east side, where is a precipice about two hundred feet high of smooth rock, and nearly r dpendicular, down which which he s^^pped upon nis snow shoes to the lake, escaping upon the ice. The water is deep at the bot- tom, and fine trout are caught there with a long line. The lake here assumes the appearance of a narrow pond for three or four miles, and seems closed at both ends. The ground is stil! elevated on both sides, but hills have succeeded to mountains, and some of these are at length overtopped by Black Mountain, which, although at such a distance, at length makes its ap- pearance again, and continues in si^ht. The lake at length diminishes to a very narrow stream, and the bottom becomes gradually covered n-ith weeds. Ijord Howe^s Landing is just behind an isbnd ol three acres, on the left-hand at the entrance of the creek. Here is the spot where the unfortunate expe- dition of Abercrombie effected their landing, and on the island they established their hospital, on their way io the attack of Ticonderoga. wn produces de i8 at stiil little further 11 very fine, being yet - Rogers, a elf in the nd success, rown Point jnliers, and I afterward the way of he was, at of Indians, mountain, ended half the south, east side, et high of wn which the lake, Jt the bot- ong line. a narrow 2d at both sides, but 3 of these Hy which, 3S its ap- le lake at • and the ds. island of ;e of the »te expcs f, and on heir wav T "»^ fj 1 © y N TIC07a>EB0GA. 179 -1 The steamboat passes on some distance beyond this place, and lands her passengers on the other side, where, at her regular voyages, carriages are found in wailing to convey them to Ticonderoga, three miles, Over a rough roaa. Those who intend to take a steamboat on Lake Champlain, should be careful to inquire the hour when it passes, and regulate their time accordingly. Ticon- deroga ^as become one of the stopping places, which will prove a great convenience to the numerous tra- vellers attracted to this interesting spot. Abercrombie's army passed for some part of the way along the route we travel. Passing the Upper Falls, which are the highest, he forded the creek above the second. At the Falls near the bridge which we cross, just above the sawmills, was a stone blockhouse; and there was a redoubt on the north side of the stream near the bridge, where, as in several other places, there was some fighting to carry the French outposts. At the Upper Falls are several valuable sawmills and forges, and the scenery is highly picturesque. THE FORTRESS OF TICONDEROGA. . . ? IS famous old fortress, or rather its remains, are d /(n tly seen from Lake Champlain, though, from the dirtcir^R by which we approach it, they are discovered only at a short distance. An elevated piece of land, gently sloping towards the south, and ending abruptly over a bend of the lake, appears, partially covered with trees, and crowned near its extremity with a cluster of broken walls and chimneys. There is a nteadow on the eastern .,ide, running to the base of the ridee, and across this is a footpatl: from the ferry to the fort ')y the nearest way. A carriage road also leads from the ferr)' to the riclge.. and thence down to the ^amo plaro. tii^> ROUTE TO f'A^'ADA. The Old FuEjfGH tiNEs, where General Abercrombie was defeated in 1758, ail^ the onl^ part of the fortification which was ever the scene ot' a battle. They commenced on the east side, at a battery of heavy cannon on the shore, about a quarter of a i *h south of the ferry. The remains of the breastwor.. r yet be seen. The lines were drawn in a zig-^ ; first stretching off to the right, along the side of marshy ground to a cluster of busnes where was a battery ; and then to the left to the verge of a wood, where was another. Their course may be distinctljr traced in this man- ner, across the ridge of land at its highest elevation, over to the brow of a steep bank looking towards the outlet of Lake George. The ground is so high on the top of this ridge, that it must have been a comnianding position when clear of trees. The woods that now so much interrupt the sight, have grown since the evacu- ation of the fortress, after the revolutionary war. There is a fine spring of water near the western part of the French lines, where a bloody engagement occurred between two hostile parties during the battle. Bodies of men have been dug up hereabouts within a few years, and shot were formerly very frequently found in old timber. Mount Hope is a hill about a mile north from this place. It was occupied by General Burgoyne's British line, which formed the right wing on his approach to Ticonderoga, on the 2d of June, 1777. In proceeding from the French lines south towards the fortress, by a gentle descent, the surface of the ground appears to nave been in some places smoothed in former times by the plough, and by the removal and cutting away of rocks, to render it convenient for the evolutions of troops, and the use of artillery. A close observer will also remark that he pasee«! the remain^ J0^' TICONDEHOGA. 181 oi several distinct lines of small redoubts, placed at equal distances, and ranged in the form of a quincunx. Tbese were intended to embarrass still further the ap- proach to the fortress, which assiimes the air of a more important work as you approach it. There are two old intrenchments, 270 and 150 j^ards from the fortress; and then comes the edge of the outer ditch or counterscarp, where there was a row of palisadoes. Five steps more brine you to the walled side of the ditch; which is still eight feet deep in some places, and therefore impassable except where it has oeen partly filled up. Its breadth is generally about 8 or 9 yards, and the wall of the fortress on the other side in some places 20 or 25 feet high. The fortress is of an angular form, and embraces a large tract of ground, being divided into parts by deep ditches, which were defer ied by cannon and musketry, and added very much to the security of the place. The communication between these dinerent parts was kept up by stone staircases, placed in convenient po- sitions of the angles, all so calculated as to make the descent into the ditches and the ascent circuitous and intricate, and open to the cannon and small arms. A glance at some of those that remain will show the plan. The walls were originally much higher than at present, being raised by superstructures oi Ic^s filled in with earth, to such a height as to protect the barracks. The Barracks formed an oblong, and the walls still remain of all except those on the eastern side ; their form is plainly distinguishable. The parade, which they include, appears to have been formerly carefully smoothed. This area is about 524 yards lon^, and 8 in breadth. The barracks, &c., the walls ot which remain on the north, south, and west sides, are built of the rough blue limestone, of which the neighbour- ing rocks are formed, two stories high ; and these, with the chimneys, several of which are standing, are the principal objects seen from a distance. By the sontbern entrance. Ethan Allen entered with bi^s ^ W2' UuUTE TO CANADA. raw soldiers, when he surprised the fortress on the lt>th May, 1776 ; and on reaching the court yard and calling on the commander to surrender, the British officer, Capt. Deplace, made his appearance at a window and submitted, delivering up 3 omcers and 44 rank and file. In consequence of this coup de main, this important place was in the hands of the Americans until the arrival of Burgoyne, in 1777. The battlements of Ticonderoga first bore the flaff of independence. This circumstance should of itsett* render this ruin, so Hne in other associations, interesting to the traveller. At each comer was a bastion or a demi-bastion ; and under that in the north-eastern one is a subterranean apartment, the access to which is through a small entrance near that comer of the court yard. It com- municates with two magazines at the further end : that on the left, which is the larger, being 19 or 20 feet long. The room is also arched, measures about 35 feet in length, 21 in breadth, and 10 or 11 in heieht, and like the magazines was bomb proof. The cellars south of this, which belonged to the demolished build- ings, and are almost filled up, have a room or two with fireplaces still distinguishable. The Grenadiers' Battery. This important outwork is situated on a rocky point towards the east from the main fortress. They were connected by a covered way, the traces of which are distinctly visible. It was surrounded by a wall faced with stone, with five sides, one of which measures about 180 feet ; but that towards the lake has been undermined by time, and slipped down the bank. The remaining parts are nearly entire., and about 10 feet high. Still in adv^ince of the Grenadiers' Battery is a small work of earth, which mi^ht have contained five or six afuns ; while in front of it, and on the extreme point. ^tfVXT I)SFIAKC£. 18; tWo or three more guns appear to have been placed between the rocks, to fire down upon the water, about 40 feet below. A little further east, and under the bank, is an old stone house, formerly a store belonging; to the fort, and now occupied by the tenant of TVIr. Pell, the proprietor of the whole peninsula of Ticon- deroga. On a spot formerly occupied as the King's Garden, Mr. P. has a fine garden, abounding in the choicest fruits imported from Europe, and transported from the celebrated nurseries of Long Island. If it is the intention of the traveller to cross the lake, to the neighbouring Vermont shore, where are still some slight remams of Burgoync's intrenchments, he will be much pleased with a walk across the meadows to the upper ferry, a distance of about three-quarters of a mile. Between the Grenadiers* Battery and the fortress, the shore retains traces of many little terraces, breast- works, and buildings, such as were probably work- shops, barracks, stores, ^. The great mountain, which rises dark and abruptly iVom the opposite shore, is Mount Defiance^ about 800 feet high, on the summit of which Gen. Burgoyne's troops sfcwed themselves on the morning of July 4th, 1777, with a batteiy of heavy cannon, which they had drawn up along the ridge by night, and planted in that commanding posi- tion, wheiice they could count the men in the fort. The distance to the summit in a straight line is about a mile, so that the defence of Ticonderoga would have been impossible ; and on the firing of a few shots by the British upon a vessel in the lake, which proved the range of their guns, the Americans made preparations to evacuate the place, and effected their retreat to the^ opposite shore during the night. * ;> - i -nit The ascent of Mount Defiance is laborious, but the view is extremely fine from its summit. There are the lemains of Burgoyne's battery, with holes drilled in the rncksforWa^ing, and the marks of a large blockhouse. i«l Jl('.»i!Tii TO (;anai»a. Mount IndiiiHfukvce In a hill of comparatively small ulevRtioii caHt of IVIouiiL Di^linncc, and Hcparattid frotn it by the lako, which has \\v.vv. nMluco(i itA »i/e to that of a small river. On n hank* ju^t ahovo the water, are the remaiiiH of a /ig:*za^ battery for about 40 or AO f|;iii)»(f riiiitiin^^ acroHH a little cornfield behind a houHe, Mild making five or ^\\ ang:leH. The Horse- shoe Hattery is traceable on an elevation about a quarter of a mile in the rear. A bridge once connected Ticonderoga with Mount Defiance, the buttresses ol which are remaining, to the great annoyance of the navigators of the lake ; the steamboat passes to the south of them. On tlK> west shore (near the stone storehouse), Arnold, when pursued by the British, (paused his flotilla to be run on sliore. These hulks remain almost as sound as when first stranded. A forty-two }:ounder is said to have ranged from thn fiorseshoe over this channel (now marked by u buoy) and the fortress. Alter the Revolutionary war about 600 cannon were lying al)out the fortress, lines, &.c. many of them as Ief\ oy the English with their trunniotis knocked ofT. The mountainous region on the west side of tho lake abounds with deer, and co!'siderable numbers arc killed every season. TlIB PaSSAOE from TirONDKROClA DOWN L\K'E * Champlain is veiy pleasant, abounding, the greater part of the way to Canada, with fine natural scenes. The improvements produced in the country en- closing Lake Champlain, by the establishment of steamboats and the opening of the Northern Canal, have been veiy great. The produce formerly sent southward was necessarily subject to liei,vy expenses of transportation ; while the merchandise brought in return was liable to delay, uncertainty, injuries by land carriaere, and rxpo«»irp to thp weather and to pilTermv. I.AKU CitilAll't.ALN. ltJ/1 c*ly small I toil from /e to that he water, DUt 40 t>i beliinii a ,0 llorsc- abuut A connected ItresHes ot nee of the if>H to the the stone B Hritish, [lese hulks in(lc(i. A from the ted by a innon were )t' them as icked off. ule of the umbers are VN I (•0 lumber mills, which will be able to furnish a million of pieces of timber. They contain also vast beds of iron ore, for which forces and furnaces have betfu erected. The iron religion lies between the lake and the north-rastern branch of the Hudson, which heads miles west of it. At Swanton, Vt., are quarries of dove-coloured and black marblet where 300 saws are kept at work, it is carried to New-York in considerable quantities. - Great numbers of small schooners navigate the wa- ters of Lake (Jhamplain, and within a few years nu* nicrous canal boats, some of them fitted with masts ibr schooners for sailing. Annesley^s mode of building vessels has lately been adopted here to some extent, in which timbers aro discarded, and hulls Ibrmed oi inch boards running in several thicktiesses, and in cross directions. Onfy about 20 vessr^ls sailed on this lake before the canal was opened to the Hudson, in 1H'J7 there were t318 owned in the limits of the United States, with an amount of tonnage of about l'i,000. Lake vessels and boats were employed on the canal every year to the number of about 'J75. Five Mile Point was the landing placoof (jcn. Bur- Coyne's expedition, as aheady mentioncul. Mountaln-i appear in the west and north-W(>« nil <,» I » ^Jim|^»l»«»»ir»T7W"P» 1T5C KOMT, TO f'ANAOA. ^eaks almost bald from the height of their elevation. Summits multiply as we proceed, and distant moun- tains arise also m the north-east ; while Mount Defiance and other eminences towards the south bound the view in that direction. There are scattering farms and houses on both shores. There are many fish caught in some parts of the lake. The shores are in this part strewed with the fragments of blue limestone rock with organic remains. The immediate sliores are generally low all tlie way to Crown Point, Avhere the lake suddenly turns to the- west at a right angle, and at the distance of a mile as suddenly to the north again. A low stretch of land, covered with a young forest on the left, conceals the approach to this ancient fortress, which, for position as well as appearance and history, may be called the twin sister of Ticonderoga. Chimney Point, where the steamboat often receives and lands passengers, is on the north side of the lake, with a lai'ge public house in a pleasant situation ; and here is the place to stop, if the traveller intends to visit Crown Point, which is opposite, across a ferry | of a mile. A ferry boat will take the traveller over to Crown Point at any hour, but the steamboat proceeds imme- dicttely. The Fortress of Crown Poikt. . There are several old works thrown up along the shore, with little bays between them. The eastern- most is called the Grenadiers' Battery, the middle one is the original old French fort of 1731, and now encloses a garden : and that further west is an outwork to a bastion of the fortress. The fortress is situated about a quarter of a mile back from the shore, and appears much like Ticonde- roga from a distance, showing the walls and chimneys />f tho (M bHrrnrks, Riid wn^h of earth isurroundinir Liiow;^ i/oi^x. 1«7 elevation, nt nioun- : Defiance i the view arms and f the lake, fragments ins. The le way to ns to thf! a mile as h of land, iceals the r position called the n receives r the lake, ition; and intends to s a ferry I to Crown ds imme< along the eastern- iddle one V encloses work to a of a mile Ticonde- chimneys rronndin?: them, ill i'<^'^i'<^ to its plan, however, it is materially different. The fortress of Crown Point was a star work, being in the form of a pentagon, with bastions at the angles, and a strong redoubt at the distance of i250 or 300 yards in advance of each of tbem. The fortress is surrounded by a ditch walled in with stone, except where it lias been blasted into the solid rock of blue limestone, (as is the case in many parts, from five to twenty-five feet,) and even into the quartz rock which underlays it. Univalve shells are found in the limestone rocK, frequently four inches in diameter. The walls are about 20 or 25 feet high, and there is a convenient path running entirely round upon the top, interrupted only by the gates at the north and south sides. Although much shaded by tall sumacs, some fine views are enjoyed in making the circuit, which is not far short of half a mile. It was built in 1756. Opposite the north ^ate is a small ledge of rocks ; and Close by, the remams of a covered or subterraneous way to the lake shore. On entering the fortress, the stranger finds himself in a level, spacious area, bounded on the left, and in front, by long ruinous buildings of stone, two stories high,and[;the first 220 feet long, while the ruins of similar ones are seen on two sides on the right. This parade is about 500 feet in length. The place was surprised by Col. Warner in 1775. The view from the walls towards the north is very fine : looking down the lake, which widens at the distance of two or three miles, you have Chimney Point on the right, and two other Points projecting beyond the distant peak, called CktmeVs Hump. A range of mountains on the western shore, beginning at the distance of 18 miles, including Bald reak, gra- dually approach till they form a near and bold boundary to the lake on the left, scattered with cleared farms and houses, and then stretching away to the south, terminate in the mountains behind. This elevation, although it eeems almost as w«^!l calculated to com- iiili mum T(» I A.\Ai».i. i mand Crown I*oint ns Mount Defiance does Ticoridc- iwi, is not less llian lour miles distant. Evoiy tliinjj about this old fortress bears the marks of ruin. Two magazines were l>lown up ; the timbers in the south barradcs are burnt black ; a portion of the shingled roof which remains serves to cover a h'ttle hay mow and the nests of robins; while some of the entrances and other parts are fenced up for a sheep iold. The ground around it is much covered vvitli fragments ot blasted rocks, and, particularly at the south, with the ruins of old buildings. The trees whidi are seen have grown since the evacuation of the place ; and on one of the angles is an inscription of the date of the fortress. In 1776, the British had a fleet on Lake Champlain, composed of the following vessels : ship Inflexible, Capt. Pringle, carrying 18 twelve-pounders ; two schooners, one with 14, the other with 12 six-pounders ; a flat-bottomed radeau with 6 twenty-fours and 6 twelves ; and 20 small craft, each carrying a gun from nine to twenty-four pounders, and several long-boats, besides boats for baggage stores, &c. The Americans had only 2 brigs, 1 corvette, 1 sloop, 3 galleys, and 8 gondolas, the lai^est vessel carrying only 12 six and four-pounders. These were under the command of Arnold, who drew them up between the island of Valincourt and the western shore, where they were attacked. They fought four hours, and the British at last retreated ; but while making his way towards Crown Point, Arnold was overtaken, and nearly all the squadron fled up the lake, passing this place which was evacuated. Arnold remamed fighting as long as possible, and did not leave his vessel until she had taken fire. On making a signal at the ferry to the steamboat, she will stop and send for a passenger. Proceeding down the lake, the breadth of it soon increases, and at the two islands on the ris:ht it is about U miles ncros?. A little fiather i^ LAKE UllAiUrLAl.N. 18» l^ut-ia-Bay, on the eastern shore, with an island of the same name. A little north of this is a small island on the right, with three bushes on it, which has hence obtained the name of the Scotch Bonnet. Looking south the lake presents a fine expanse, extending almost to Crown Point, with Bald Peak conspicuous on the right. Basin Harbour is a stopping place. It is very small, with room for only 3 or 4 vessels. At a great distance in the N. E. is seen the Camel's Hump : fur- ther north a high mountain in Halifax, Vt. Sloop Island, 17 miles from Burlington, is low in the middle, and contains several trees, which look not nnlike masts. It was mistaken for a sloop in a misty day, in the Revolutionary or French w ^r, and fired upon by a vessel, whence its name. At Hartford the lake suddenly opens to the breadth of several miles, and a new scene is presented to view. On the west side is a rounded island covered with pine trees, like much of the shore previously seen, and separated from the mainland only by a narrow rent of about fifteen feet. Apparently just within this aperture is a rude arch of rock, like the remains of an ancient bridge. A beautiful bay makes up behind the island, of which a glimpse is caught in passing ; and a little further north it opens beautifully to view, with a smooth declining shore cultivated for several miles ; while a blue range of the Alleghanies rises behind them, like the Catskill Mountains seen from the city of Hudson. On the eastern side, the Green Mountains tower at a distance over the wild, uncultivated shore, till a cluster of white buildings is discovered forming the little vil- lage of Charlotte or M*Neil's Ferry, which is backed by a few fields and orchards. Further north the shores are rocky, and rise abruptly from the water. R lOO llUC/Ti: TO C'A.NAl^A. BURLINGTON, 75 miles from Whiteliall. This is the lirgest tow.i on Lake Champlain, and ib situated in a commandine^ as well ai> a delightful po- sition. The lake suddenly widens as you approach it from the south, and a fine semicircular bay puts up to it from the west, surrounded by a crescent of higii ground, under the shelter of whicn the town is situated. The view from the top of the hills is truly admirable ; embracing in the foreground the elec:ant gardens of some of the wealthier inhabitants, with the streets of Burlington below, the curving form of the bay, the whole oreadth of the lake, here fc:n miles across, and a noble chain of distant blue mountains on the opposite side. The college iias been rebuilt. The road to AVindsor by the Gulf is very good and interesting. The ro'd to Montreal passes Swanton, St. Alban's, &c. The lake is occasionally in sight ; and for a dis- tance of six miles, round the head of M issiscoui Bay, the road runs along the shore. At that place vast quantities of lumber are annually collected. There has lately been established here a glass-house, on a large scale. PoKT Kent, 10 vdlcs, is a small village on the western shore, 16 miles front Burlington. It was begun to be built in 1824, to serve as a port to the iron works established a little back in the country, where there is a vast quantity of ore. About 2000 tons of iron ore are annually ii-ade at Essex and Clinton ; and 5000 or 6000 tons might be furnished. It contains two laige stores, a wharf, &c. A railway has been contemplated from this place to Clintonville on the Sable river, where are extensive rainjES of iron. The land is favourable, and the whole f- T'i. r"!*" i'^i"^"'^'"' 1 * s-^as^B. ?*y. 1lfJ4>-^.# h^, .t*-' * . r «*'".> aiuy and ia ightful po- pproach it puts up to it of high is situated, dmirablc ; ijardens of i streets of B bay, the icrossy and le opposite he road to esting. it. Alban% i for a dis- scoui Bay^ place vast jass-housc, i I ,^' .0 • . ' A4 - '♦ '• '<-*'^ ^ ' ," '*'^'' T k /' :r A?!#- „H '•».,■>' -*.^*'*' .i.,^*^' *«^V ^*t. t: L.*J&^Jt-^JV.I..l^.l .^-v:i;_-^s' Sft'Jtfr liATTLK OF r L ATI's UUUiar. ir»i v/ork, 15 miles, would probably cost only $45,000. In 1827, nut less than $20,000 were paid tor the trans- portation of the article to Lake Champlain, The opening of the state road, already authorized by the Legislature, from the Lake to Hopkinton, Sf. Lawrence Co. will introduce sfreat activity into that district. Inexhaustible beds of iron ore will be wrought near this route. FLATTSBURGH, miUs, This is a town of considerable importance, situated on the banks of a small river called the Saranac, and just behind the hi^h and steep bank of the lake, on which is a line of forts erected for the defence of the place. The town commands a fine view. There are some remarkable Waterfalls on the Saranac. Plattsburgh was the scene of a land and naval battle during the late war with Great Britain. The Battle op PLATToii-UGir. While Gen. Macomb was stationed at PlatLsburgh, Sir George Prevost came from Canada with an r rmy, and occupying the village, stood ready to attack the American troops, who were in position on the elevated ground, between the east bank of the Saranac and the precipitous shore of the lake, where a number of forts, Lc. are still to be seen. Com. M'Donough was at that time on the lake with the American squadron ; and hearing of the approach of Capt. Downie with the British ships, extended his line between Hospital Island and Cumberland Head, where he received and fought the enemy, with such success as to capture all his vessels. The action continued 2 hours and 20 minutes, and was performed in full sight of tha armies. Capt. Downie's snip, the Confiance, had 105 shot in her hull, and the Saratoga 59, and was twice on fire. This battle caused the retreat of Prevost, and relieved that part of the country from being overrun* BH JU'J IIOUTIS TO C!A^A1)A. M'Donovgh\'i Farm lies on that part of Cumberland Head which is opposite the scene of his battle, and consists of 200 acres. It was presented to him by the lefi^islaluro of Vermont,* in gratitude for his victory. CHAZY, 15 miles. Rouse's 1*oint, \2 miles. There is a village by this name, on the western side ; and a mile beyond it, The Fortf which is a kind of large castle, built of hewn stone, with perpendicular walls, and three tiers of embrasures. It stands at the end of a low point, and was built to command the passage of the lake during the last war. On running the line of the United States and Canada, the commissioners at first fixed the boundar]^ a little south of this place, so as to bring the fort within the limits of the latter ; but in consequence of the line agreed on by the treaty coming too near Quebec, it was determined that an arrangement should be made for the benefit of both parties ; and the boundary has been left in its former place. An opening through the woods, like a road, marks the place, about half a mile north of the fort. A committee of Congress has proposed to the United States, to purchase land here, and open a canal to St. Regis, on the St. Ln wrence. The lowest summit level on American ground, would be 960 feet above Lake Champlain. The country hereabouts is very uninteresting : for * St. Mian's. At St. Alban's, in Vermont, an extensive " slide," or avalanche, occnried on the 4th of July, 18'27, of nlinost unprecedented extent. It he^un on the nortli-west side of Mansfit I Mountain near tlu; lop, which 18 4,iiI79 feel al»ove tide water. It was irom 20 to 30 yards in breadth, and moved down 3 niiloa, aitho\igli llie (!ihire. to the White Moimtflin^. •■"! ^. .701I>' P. in.s the level country has begun which extends far into Canada. The appearance of the banks is quite uni- form ; they being low, and in many places almost overflown by the waters of the lake. Isle aux Noix, 1 1 mile.^. This is the English frontier post, and has been chosen with judgment ; as although the ground is of hardly any elevation, it is higher than any in the neighbour- hood ; and the island is so situated as partly to occupy the channel, and entirely to command it. There is a long wall and battery on the south side, with angles ; beyond which are seen a large stone building, and the roofs of others on the left and right of it, forming the storehouses, &c. of the post. The channel is on the east side, and very narrow, faced for a considerable distance by another battery. Sentries are posted in different places. The ship-yard suc- ceeds, and the officers' Quarters, generally neat, one- story buildings, with little gardens tastefully laid out. Here is a landing-place in the Chinese style. A large ftockaded building, which is the hospital, succeeds, with a large arch raised on the shore, bearing (he royal crown. The little cabins are the soldiers' quar- ters, and some of them are neat, and ornamented with flowers. The expedition against Canada, in 1775, consisted of two divisions : one of 3000 New-England and New- Vork soldiers, under Generals Schuyler and Montgo- mery, proceeded down Lake Champlain in rafts, from Ticonaeroga and Crown Point, and took position at Isle aux Noix. The other, which was planned and despatched subseauentlv, consisted of a large body, under Gen. Arnola, and proceeded through the wil- derness, in the District of Maine, for Qjuebec. The former division, after a little delay, proceeded to St. John's. They afterward formed at this place a che- vaux-de-frieze in the river. 'PIUPPPI "l"! I IH|I III! I Mil Hm Hill (Hill II j]Jt I r I Jfl4 JtOVTK TU t:A:SAlJA. Beyond, llic shores continue low and unintcitatiu^. with numerous cabins of settlers near the water, the hiQat encroaching to within a short distance behind. St. John's, 10 miles. Here the steamboat stops, at the head of the rapids, %, andatthe endof navip^ation. Stage coaches are some- times kept in readiness to take the passengers directly on their way to Montreal (16 miles by land, and 9 by water, on the St. Lawrence, in a steamboat). But the arrangements are sometimes different, and it has even been the custom often to spend a night in this place, i'he stage house, on the left-hand, about a quarter of a mile up the main street, is in some re- spects an excellent house. The village presents nothing worthy of particular attention, except as the scene oT some military deeds, connected with the expedition of Gen. Montgomery against this country. While the continental troops were stationed at isle aux Noix, in 1775, Generals Montgomery and Schuyler invested the fort, which contamed a garrison of 5 or 600 troops, besides 200 Canadians, and was commanded by Major Preston. The siege lasted 6 weeks, and they did not capitulate till some time after the surrender of Chambly, nor till the Americans had brought their trenches to the walls of the fort. They then obtained possession of 17 brass pieces, 22 iron, 7 mortars, with balls, bombs, &C. &LC. The Canadian money is different from that of the United States ; but in consequence of the continual intercourse, the latter jpasses currently. Nine sous or ' coppers, (which are of various and sometimes curious stamps,) eaual six cents. 2 sous nearly Id. and 20 cents a shilling. The pleasantest road from St. John's to Montreal, is by Chambly, and Longueil, (for which, see Index.) Leaving St» John's for Montreal, by Laprairie^ (the i 'w^if^m'j" •^•^^t^mmmmmimmmmi «P iiitcrcatin*;. water, the 5 behind. "'"'M the rapids, » are soiiic- rs directly fid, and 9 )atj. But and it has :ht in this I, about a some re- particular iry deeds, ►ntgomery tal troops Generals rt, which jsides 200 Preston. :apitulate y, nor tiJl the walls ion of 17 3, bombs, lat of the continual le sous or is curiou,s . and 20 ?* i' ( •»** )ntreal, is [ndex.) irie^ (the '.5*i,. , i-..: «? r ir /, ■*^. Ms'lt ;j;,..rjCA- -^ — „', r^-ir-if-r '^■■if Louj;u 4:a.\ai)a. 19^ f?lagc route,) tUc road passes about a mile along the western shore of the River Richelieu, which some- times takes the names of St. John^s and Sorel, in con- sequence of its running by those towns. Several mountains are in sight, as oelceil, BoucherviUe, &c. The Rapids may be regarded as a specimen, on a small scale, of the numerous rapids in the 8t. Law- rence, which will hereafter excite the interest, if not the apprehension, of the stranger. The bed of the Ri- chelieu has a rapid descent in several places, where it comes immediately under observation, and becomes so shallow as to be passable for the flattest boats oiily during the floods. In the summer it is generally only a few inches deep, and the surface broken by nu- merous stones of all sizes, and here and there by little waterfalls near the shore. At the same time the banks are low and flat ; the houses of one floor, white- washed, and built at nearly equal distances, facing the river ; and, in short, the general character of a scene on the St. Lawrence, may be imagined from a view here, by making allowance for its size and fertility. It has been proposed to make a canal to the St. Lawrence ; but it is said that the channel of the St. John's might be improved, by stone walls to conflne the water over these rapids. The Chambly rapids mi^ht be passed by a short canal ; and the only re- maming obstructions till those at the mouth are at St. Therese and Mille Roches. The inhabitants along the road present the aspect of foreigners, in dress, countenance, manners, customs, and language. Their fashions are antique, and many of them have not been changed for ages : the men wear the Canadian jacket, cap, or hat, red sash, and moccasin of rou^h feather. The women work labo- riously in the held, and all of them speak French, ge- nerally without knowing a word ot any other lan- guage. The farms will be observed, laid out in strips of 1 or 200 acres, flat, broad, and 1, 2, or even 3 miles in Ienj?th ; and the system of farming is extremely bad. \do KOUTB TO CANADA. as will be discovered at once, by Ihe acres that an; consigned to the useless and destructive little Canada Thistle. There is no such thing known here as the doctrine of a rotation of crops, and land is recovered to fertility by lying fallow, except that lately the use of manure has beg^n to be resorted to in a small de- gree. The horses are of a small breed, well known in the northern states by the name of the country. They are small and slow, hut powerful and hardy. Many of them are driven across the line, and large horses introduced into the towns in return. The value of a common Canadian horse is about $40 ; and of a good one, $60. Th« land titles are extremely doubtful : no register being kept, and no security being provided by means of which the legal propriety may be certainly ascertained. The Legislature, how- ever, have had this subject befbi\j them. There is very little to be seen on this road to inte- rest the traveller, except the novelty of what he ob- serves. There is little encouragement to settlers, 12 per cent, is payable to the Seigneur, on sales of real estate, besides other heavy taxes of different descrip- tions. The landscape is unvarying : the inhabitants, as well as the soil, are poor ; and there is nothing that deserves the name of a village. As appears from tes- timony received by a Committee of the British House of Commons not lon^ since, in many cases land of ex- actly the same description is worth from 10 to 15 shil- lings an acre on the Vermont and New-York side of the line, and only 1 shilling on the Canada side. We pass a house now and then, dignified by a tall pole or mast raised in front of it, which is a singular mark of distinction conceded to officei'sof militia, and usually adopted by those of the lowest grades. The people appear very happy, and have healthy countenances, inclining to round faces and thick lips. Many of them show the upper front teeth when silent ; and their aspect, although oftentimes shrewd, denotes a want of education, which is the real cause of the LAi'J{AiBI£. VJl backward condition of society in Canada. They arc all Catholics ; and the churches seen here and there upon the .oad, are devoted to the service of the Romish church. One hirge church, lately built of gray stone, will be seen on the south side of the road. It has been sug^gested that a railroad might be ad- vantageously constructed from St. John's to Laprairie. The IlAiiF-WAY House is dirty and disagreeable ; but the inhabitants under- stand English, and it is generally stopped at only a few minutes. The land is divided in some places by ditches round the farms ; and there are the cnannels of several small streams which cross the road. One of these is passed on a bridge, just east of the slop- ping place. About half a mile beyond, are some barracks built for troops, during th<^ late war. One of the most sin- gular traits in the domestic arrangements of the Cana- dians, is buildins; the oven not only out of doors, liko the Dutch, but directly over the pi^ sty. The mountain from which the city of Montreal de- rived its name, and which riseo immediately behind it, may be discovered at a great distance ; and the house of Mr. M*Tavish may be perceived, like a white spot, a little distance up its side. Some time before reachir^ the river, you pass an extensive common, Ij^ingon the south side of the road, and then the town of Laprairie. This is a large town, from which the steamboats Montreal and Edmund Henry cross several times ;i day, to Montreal, 9 miles. The place is built after the Canadian fashion ; and very lew of the inliabit- ants speak English. Tlie streets are narrow, the h()u?elwMilUAL. curiosity ; and are recommended to taiie a walk through the two principal streets, and to notice the following buildings and places. At the north end of St. Paul's-street are the Bar*- i^acks. Above these are the Hospital and Public Baths. Just above the Masonic Hall, is the French church of Bon-secours, which, like the other Canadian religious buildings generally, is formed much on the plan of those in France. The roofs are, however, generally covered with tin, which is not much used in other countries. This is near the northern limit of Montreal, beyond which begins the Quebec suburb. Masonic HaXU on the eastern side of the street. Theatre, adjoining the Masonic Hall. Market Place* and JSTelson's Monument. Then fol- lows a double roW of shops. On the east side are several, which show articles of Indian manufacture for sale. These, however, had better be bought at the nunneries if it is intended to visit them. The Black jVmws' Garden, Convent, and Chapel, are on the west side of the street. The wall is very high. The porter at the gate will give admission and direc- tions, but in French. Visiters are expected to pur- chase a few articles of nuns' or Indian manufacture. It is most agreeable to go in parties. The New Cathedral and Old Parish Church are close by : a short street leads to them, west. The New Cathedral i.s probabljr the largest church in North America, un- less exceptions are to be made in favor of Mexico. This edifice is at present partly concealed by the old Ca- thedral, which is to be removed on its completion, to leave the front open to a large square : the Place. d'^Armes. It was commenced in 1825, and the walls were raised and the roof partly finished at the close of * A npw mnrkct if to hr hnUt iuptcm! of tliP «lf?. HOU'i'RHAL. JiOl \valk ce the le Bar^ Public French anadian 1 on the owever, used in limit of iburb. eet. ^hen t'ol- side are lufacture ;ht at the apeU arc ery high. d direc- to pur- lufaclure. \iurch arc i&2T, Mr. (J'Donnelll, the architect employed in su« l^erintendin^ the work, ^ave the plan, which is partly copied from some of the European models of the 13tn, 14th, and 15th centuries. It is of the plainest stylu that can bear the name of Gothic : any exuberance of ornament being inconsistent with a climate so severe as that of Canada. It is 266 feet lon^ from west to east, and 134 feet wide. It was designed to have six quadrangular towers, each 200 feet high : on each flank, and 2 at each end. The curtain, or space between the front towers is 73 feet by 119, and has parapets. There lire 5 public entrances and 3 private to the first floor, and 4 to the galleries. The building can contain 10,000 persons, which number may assemble and dis- perse in a few minutes. The eastern window over the high altar is 32 by 64 feet, and is to be divided by shafts and mull ions for stained glass. The groins of ihe ceiling are painted in fresco. The ceiling will be 80 feet high, groined and partly supported b)r a double range of grouped columns, intersected by rails. The circuit of the edifice is 1126 feet. Thero are to be 7 altars. The floor rises gradually from the entrance to the high altar. The house is to be warmed by heated air from stoves under the floor. The exterior is faced with hewn stone, from the moun- tain. A promenade 75 feet by 25, elevated more than 100 feet between the towns will command a noble view. It is now roofed, and nearly completed. GoodenougW s Hotel is on the west side, in a court yard. — Further on, a street on the opposite side brings you in sight of the Gray Jyuns* Convent, a large stone building, partly new, aoout 410 feet in length. Mansion Home Hotel, St. Paul's-street, below an open square. (The Canal to Lachine begins on the river shore, nearly against here. The Seminary (La Seminaire do St. Sulpicc.^ is an 2U2 .MUiSTKEAL. antique building, and contains a Catholic library of about 6000 volumes ; but access to it is not very easily obtained. The College in this city was built by money supplied from the funds of this institution. The Priests are the Seigneurs of the whole island of Montreal. The College is a large building of stone, three sto- ries high, erected in 1819 out of the funds of the "Seminary." It has a front of about 160 feet, with ■wings projecting in front and rear, which make the whole length about 220 feet. In order to guard against fire, there is scarcely any wood used in the construction ; and large iron doors are hung in the passages in such a manner that, by shutting them, the whole building may be divided into three parts, each fire-proof. It contains about 300 students, v. ho are divided into 8 classes, to each of which is devoted a year, with the exception of the two last, which occupy but 6 months apiece ; so that the whole course of instruction is finished in 7 years. Many of the pupils, however, leave the institution before completing the course. The Chapel is in the south wing ; and the rest of the building is divided into recitation rooms, and bed rooms, the former of which are hung with maps and religious pictures, and the latter supplied with crosses and fonts. Every thing is verj^ plain in the furniture. The price o* instruction is about eighty dollars per year, and some of the pupils have a'lowances made them ; particularly those designed for the Church, who assist in instruction by day, and study by night. There is a preparatory School con^iectea with the Collegre. One of the instructers always oversees the boys m their recreations. neturning to the square, and entering another prin- cipal street running parallel to St. Paul's, you pass numerous respectable and some elegant dwelling*, leaving the Parish Church and the new Cathedral on tlie east. I MOKTHEAL. ii03 rary of y easily uilt by titution. sland cf iree sto- 3 of the et, with lake the guard d in the r in the hem, the rts, each ided into with the 6 months IS finished leave the rest of and bed [laps and h crosses furniture. )llars per :es made Church, by night, with the jrsees the ther prin- you pass IwellingJ*, Ihedral on The Wesley an Chapel. The American Congrega- tional, and the English Episcopal Churches are passed on this side of the town. The Court House is large, but old ; and in the rear of it is The Parade, a handsome piece of ground, with a walk, where the troops are drilled every morning, generally at 10 o'clock. There is commonly but a small number of soldiers in the city, during peace ; and a regiment garrisons Montreal and the other posts in the neighbourhood towards the United States. The Society of Natural History have an interesting collection of animals, minerals, plants, &c. principally collected in the provinces. A House of Industry has been recently established. The British and Canadian School Society esiahlfshed schools on the British system in Montreal, in Sept. 1822. In Sept. 1825, there had been admitted 1706 boys, and 444 girls, most of whom were of the poorer class. It is supported by voluntary subscriptions. Nine hundred pounds, the remainder of ^ lai^e sum collected in England for the instruction of Indians not otherwise instructed, is in the hands of this society, to be hereafter devoted to that object. There is a Lancasterian School of several hundred scholars, where some of the most influential Canadians, Cathoiics, having become aware of the value of educa- tion, have placed themselves on the committee. There is an Episcopal School on Bell's system. The priests in Canada have begun to educate in self defence. The f^choois provided for by gov*»rnment, are restricted to masters of the English Church ; and a considerable number of school-houses have been erected, but almost confined to the townships, Schools^ <^c. in Lower Canada. — According to a re- port made in the House of Assembly of the Province m 1829, there were, in Montreal, Qjuebec, and Three Rivers, 3 schools of royal iastitution, 2 colleg3S, 6 con- iM)l MOr^TREAL. vents, U gratuitous schools, (containing 1214 pupils,) and 50 other schools. In the country, there were 70 schools of royal insti" tution, 4 colleges, and 14 mission schools. IsLAi^D OP St. Helen, or Grant's Island. This has recently been purchased by the British i;;overnment, for a military position and depot. It is principally covered with trees ; but has a beautiful garden behind the quarters of the officers ; and a fine road winding round from the landing place, on the south end, (where are some remains of old works, and a new battery,) to a rocky eminence over the arseral, ^vhicb is opposite the northern quarter of the town. This rock is about 1 1 feet higher than the most ele- vated parts of the citjr ; and the view from it is hand- some, with a wild ravine just below. The arsenal and storehouses form three building;3, with a narrow yard between them, about 135 feet in length. The batteries range on the river and town, -and are furnished with neat barracks, a magazine, iiic* The Mountain op Montreal, the summit of which is to be the site of an impregna- ble Citadel, offers an extensive and delightful view, and should by no means be forgotten by those who have an opportunity to undertake the excursion. It is better calculated to afford an idea of the country, as well as to delight the eye, than any other excursion which can be made. Yet it is recommended, if the traveller stays long enough, to take a ride or two in different directions, after having visited this favourite spot. Capt. Partridge states its elevatiiHi at 676 feet abo/e tide water. There are three ways of reaching the summit of the mountain ; on foot, by an intricate route from the eouthern part of the city : on hnrftphnck. or in n rrrr- MONTHEAL. 205 riagCf to the ridge ; or round the north end to the rear. There is also a footpath up the north end. A private road turns oflF from the southern road on the ridge, passing through a gate. Heretofore the only {food point of view has been from a rock above M*Tavish .s house, whence a very steep path leads directly dovv^n. Tne country spread out to view on arriving at this commanding height, is a plain of such vast extent as to appear in many direction- quite boundless. In fact, it streti'hes much farther than would be imagined , for all the way to Qjuebec the river's banks present the same appearance. The spectator faces the east. The side of the moun- tain, almost precipitous, is thickly covered with trees, which soon give place below to a smooth descent, de- <:lining to the base, chiefly devoted to pasturage, on the elevation of which stands M*Tavish's house. A beautiful display of cult vated fields succe<;ds on the level, divided by high palings, and scattered with a few houses. Below a moderate descent, which ap- pears like an old bank of the river, gardens and dwell- ings begin to increase ; and behind a succeeding one, of a similar description, are suburbs. East, on the horizon, is Boucherville Mountain ; and over it is seen, more indistinctly, Belceil Mountain. The plain country between the Sorel and St. Law- rence is divided mto innumerable fields, with sc;Uter- ing houses. In the same dire* tion is seen St. Helen's, or Grant's Island ; and in a direction with the south end of it, the steeple of Bon-secour church. North of this are the Quebec suburbs, beginning near the barracks ; the Waterworks, and Baths. Nearer, are seen St. Louis and St. Lawrence suburbs. S. S. EasU on the opposite shore, La Prairie ; and nearly over it, the site of St. John's, which is not dis- tinguishable. In a range with them, is Nuns' Island, and Nuns' Farm, the latter on this shore The river S2 ?ur. UOIJTE IN CAKADA. is 3 J miles wide. The suburbs on the soutli side oi the city) arc St. Antoine, Ricolet, St. Anne's, and St. .loscph's. Distant Mountains. Jvorth. Bout de I'lsle, the extremity of Montreal Island, Pointe aux Trembles, and (he villatce of Bou- cherville ; opposite which is Longueil, and further down, Varennes, with a two-steepied church. JV. Eastf the view is boundless, with a succession of cultivated tields, which in the distance become quite undistinj^uishable. The same appearance, it will hereat^er be seen, extends along the river's banks quite to Quebec. Road round the Mountain. — The road near the north end of the mountain is ornamented with many beautiful seats, and there are also some extensive manufactories. Behind it is a fme extent of culti- vatod ground. Othbr Excursions. To Lachine, 9 miles, or 3 leagues. The river road pleasantest : giving a view of tne Rapids, Nuns' and Heron Islands, the Indian village of (vaughnawaga op« posite, and crossing the Lachine Canal, At Lachine is a small house kept by an American. Crystals of axenite (carb. lime) were found in excavating the canal. The pebbles alone the shore are the frag- ments of granite, while the olack,or deep purple rocks which form the channel are limestone, lying in strata nearly horizontal. To Pointe aux Trembles and Bout de Vkle, The southern road to the Mountain, which crosses it at the less elevated part of the rid^e, near the middle, leads through St. .loseph's suburbs, and afterward passes a number of fine country seats. The most re- markable are those of Mr. M*Gillivray, and the late Mr. Gregory, members of the old North-West Com- pany, whicn has lately been converted into the Hud- son's Bay Company. It engro?«ed the Indian trade f .;;> '■'A ith side 01 s, and St. ' Montreal e of Bou- id further h. [;ctssion of ome quite e, it will !r*8 banks near the vith many extensive t of calti" '►A-,. .• . ■ ... ,r ) t^..* . . ■A*<<4» ''^l •'^li^i, .-ijp.ss :ii '* '^ ^ . ,.« *" J' :V • ■ s ■ ,'-' ;v:> •^,,, .' •. # ;.^' I^r^ i.''t^>' «%- river road Vuns^ and iwaga op- Lachine rystals of ating the the frag- ile rocks in strata crosses it ; middle, fterward most re- the late St Com- Hud- an trado ^S/^: --^m. ■■',■' ';., i' ^ % . . --.r- . ' .-■■«.,..."■•..■_' ■.T^*"'. -;^ /^r '■«»'*•>■*•■.>,*.. ',t*- , V.**'^^^^ >'!.*^:;--' he 16 .NqtAl. .HO^TRBAL. 2U7 loi' a vast distance up the lakes, and enriched many individuals, whose residences add materially to the appearance of the city and its environs. The Priests' Farm is passed on the left, near the base of the mountain, and is a larg^e tract of land, with an old building; in the ancient European style, pre- servitjfsf many of the features of feudal days, with its pr(|jectine: square towers, small windows, pointed roofs, and vvcHiht^r-beaten walls. The barns con- nected with it are very sp.icious, nnd seem capable of containing a large part of the products of the farm. The only wonder seems to be what a few old men can do with !such vast stores, as well as with their receipts from various other quarters. The whole island of Montreal is a Seigneurie, in which the monks of Kicolet, as Seigneurs, have the right of a tax on every farm, on every purchase and ssde of real estate, and many other privileges, vested in them by the king of France on the first settlement of the place. Circumstances have conspired to reduce 3nd destroy many of these privileges, so that the an- nual income of the priests, irom this rich and valuable Seigneurie, though targe, is very trivial, in comparison with its extent and fertility. Col. Allen, with his detachment for the surprise of Montreal, in 1776, crossed the river from Longueil ; but Major Brown, not being able to land above the city as was intended, the former was taken prisoner bjr Gov. Carleton, after a sharp engagement, loaded with irons, and sent to England. Col. Warner after- ward erected batteries on the shore at Longueil, by which he drove back the governor when he attempted to land on his way to relieve St. John's. The population of Montreal, by a census taken in 1825, was nearly 24,000 ; and 4 or 500 greater than that of Quebec. 208 UOUTI5 IN rANAI»\. Till-: UIDIOAII CANAL. T\m work, which \h in pioiifirMs at thi; exprnsti ol" liri'iit liiitiiin, is \o ffliiM;! a navi^^ahle coininiinirBtioii btiiwecii Lakt! Ontario and (he ()ltawa river. While a lino of frontier fortresHes iH to he eonHtructc^d, in- cluding those at C|iiel)e(*, and Montreal, a( an eNtiniated exnen.se of 79I{,(MH)/., an interior line of navi|<;ati()n is to ue formed, of which ihi.s is a pari, at tin; su|[)pose(l cast of rj527,(KM)/. The object ol it is to secure, in time of war, the transportation of milit.iry stores, ike. hy an interior route, less exposed to the l)nited States, and practicable in lake vess(>ls of l"'^' tons. It is a ^reat undertaking!^, and when complete! which it will pn»ba> biy be in a few years, will alFord a most interest iii|y|; episode to the travelliMs^ lour. It will nresent a com- bination of (ine natural objects and noble structures of art.. ThoMo who have leisure, will be pleased with a view of some of the works in iheir unfinished state. Otlu^rs may perhaps read with u^ratification a brief description o( some of the principal objects on the I'oute. Stap;(; coaches run to By town in connexion with steamboats. At Merrick's Snic, arc to l)e 3 locks of feet lift ; and a dam, 7 feet U\^\\ and lUO lon^, at the head of it, to lift the Itideau river into tlie Snie. Corisiderable excavations of eartli and rock in the Snie. At Kdmund's llapids, a dam 8 feet hig;h, and 400 lonp ; and a lock of 6 feet lift. 'I'he excavations, both earth and rock, are considerable. Near Pliilip\s, at the same rapids, is anojher dam, H ieet hif^h and S60 lonii: ; and a lock of 6 t'eet lift. At the Old Slys, on the Rapids of Smith's Fall, is a dam 18 feet hidi and 210 lono: : and two locks of 8 feel lift. ^ At the First Kapids is a dam feet in heidit and 260 in lenjjth, with a lock of 7 feet lift. There is also an einl)ankment of wood and clay, 2 miles long. J'ltlii OTTAWA i{iV)J{. U{i\i \i ClialToy's Mills jh a dnm *J0 feet liip;h and 80 wide, with two locliM oil) U'vi lilt. At Nicholhon'H KapidM is a dam 1H iv.oA lii^h and 240 lornr ; a luck oi' 10 I'eet lilt, and an embankment h («et liiirti and '2lH) in length, &c. ikv,. The stone wbh found conv«nient on the ground, and also l||ne, W(K)d, and ntonc. The Uiditau (/anal will oprn to a naviji^alilc con- nexion a vaHt extent of country, and ii' extended bc' yond the Kideau Lake,^ would lead to the .shored ol lukes and rivera, an yet iinpert'ectly known, ah indeed are thoxe through which the canal already lies. The road iVoni Kingston to IMontreal croHsen the liideau Canal at Tuttle^M hill, and a new village called Kver- grt»en. lioatA ^o iVoiTi Montreal up t)i<; (irand liiver to tlio mouth ol llio Kidc^au, and tlic:; coinin(.>ncement oi the €anal, hy the La Chine and (ircnvilU; carmh. A paH- sai^e may now Ix; eanily olitiiirHMl in htnairtboats. The William Kiuff, a boat built oit tin; Annesley plan, bep^arl in iii-J!) to tun between llawkeMbury, (J-renville, and Hull, in connexion with a line. Hylowii, is situated at the junction of the Kideau and Ottawa ; it is liiU miles from Montreal, and ISO from 400 both •s, at 260 III, IS of 8 * Nonrly 'voHt ffom the ciiy of MdtitronI, dlvlnnt n\mui 90 milcii, tfin Ottawn rlvnr rroiii the went rail" iiiio oik; ol' tin- hnyH«»f UloHt. Iwiwnsurj'. TIki Otinvvii iH llNttK It laiK*' niid iiiiviKnhl«! iilrcnm, rlHliiir in llio revvtuntn oniic ('lil|i|i)'Wii i'oiiniiy (lv<> or hIx tiiiiiitnii iiiil«>H iiortli w<'hI fniiii tlio iHtand itiiil (Ityor MontrrnI ; rinwlnu tuirili fflHt iinril williiii iihoiit Vjf) iriilcH aliovi' iiM inoiitli, kmm ivi'm IMiIi-iiii, and aMHiiiiiliiff n lu-arly cnitfrly dinr.lldii, coDiiiiiiiilciiti'H with lluf Hi. liaWHttii'c, aw iiln-ady Htnii'd. Tlio Itldi'aii \ti aFiiHill, lull nn iiii|iititaril livcr, riHiii|{ in liCcdM county, lownHhtpof'KltN'y, l.owi'f Canada, vxtitiln ^MhniU'HoI'liM Hr. I.nurftncr, at III): loWor iind iiI'iIk* 'I'lion-anii iNlimdM. At itit miiircit tint Ridcnu in u NiuKuiNli Ntrcani, and In no part of itH comHtt inncli iuipfdcd tty I'aliti ; '^^n fiitlrn loiitflli, liowcvrr, U not nl>ovi' 00 nill<-H ; ronrw nortli-<*nHt nl'arly. Monr til)' iifud oniit* UldiMin, and on ilntHiinc tut)l«i land,i!Xi«ridHlal intended ranal, \« luinily lUO inlli'H, antel, then egiuning ge Keea ards the ery, and ndson of r.) The land and 1 rapidity iravvn up onlreal. Here is for girls ya ferr:^ veller by oad aloniJ tile river, if he finds it convenient^ to see the delightful country between it and the town of Assomption. There is a beautiful road on each bank, varied with houses and trees. Return so as to strike the road near St. Sulpice. St. Sulpice, 24 miles (8 leagues) from Montreal. La Moraye. Berthier. Here is an excellent inn, kept b^ a man from the United States, whose wife is a Canadian. Machiche is a pretty town, at the mouth of the Riviere du Loup, and has a very neat and comfortable inn, of the best Canadian stamp, and famous for many miles round. Many French customs are still preserved by the unmixed inhabitants of the St. Lawrence, some ot which are agreeable and interesting. At many of the inns, the traveller will receive the most kind and hospitable attentions, and will find great gratification in observing the handsome flower-gardens, as well as the neat arrangement of the furniture. At this house is a handsome collection of green-house plants. There is very little variety to be discovered in the nature 1 surface of the ground, but the journey through this region presents almost an unvarying scene of cul- tivation and fertility. For a great part of the distance, there is a narrow strip of corn or potatoes between the road and the river's bank, to correspond with the fields which stretch off to such a distance on the other hand ; and the variety of crops, and the occasional rows and clumps of trees, remove, in a good degree, the natural sianieness of the landscape. Navigation and Trade of thk St. Lawrence, &/C. Steamboats are of the utmost importance on this ^reat river, for they contribute extremely to the convenience and expedition of travellii^, and render most valuable iiss'stance to commerce. There are many steamboats ' <»nst!5intly employed between Montreal and Quebec, 14 KUIITE TO UDKUEC. most ol them fitted to accommodate pa.s.seiigeii}, m well as to carry freig^ht, and all providea with power- ful enpjines. In 1820 a passage was made from Que- bec to Montreal, in a steamboat, in 20 hours and 40 minutes — the shortest ever known. The principal article of export from Canada is lumber, a great deal of which is carried to Quebec in immense rafts, and then shipped for England. These rafts have usually a great number of sails to hoist in a fair wind, with huts to shelter the men from the weather, so that they have a very singular appearance, and at a little dis- tance look like a fleet of sail boats. The population of Lower Canada is estimated at about 200,000. The French Canadians, notwithstanding the common Prejudices against them, appear, on acquaintance, to e an intelligent people. They certainly are amiable, cheerful, and gay, and their backwardness in imjprove- ments is attributable to the system under which they live. They are generally brought up in great igno- rance, and they arc; taugnt to dislike and avoid not only the Protestant principles, but Protestants them- selves. The author has the word of one of their priests for stating, that not more than one-sixth of the population are ever taught to read or write. In New- England, as is well known, the law provides for the instruction of every child, without exception : and every child is actually instructed. Books and news- papers, therefore, lose their effect as well as their value among these people. The British government have encouraged schools here, but until lately, almost without success. Amon^ thrrse regions where English and Scotch have settled, mstruction is gaining ground ; and in Montreal, the public schools are rising in im- portance : but it is to be feared that the Catholic priests will long continue to oppose the extension ol real knowledge, and that while they retain their in- fluence, the character of the fieople will remain de- pressed. The " Procedure''^ ot Canada is founded on the edict TOWK or bOREL. 21o ers, as power- n Que- and 40 rincipal at Heal fts, and usually id, with lat they ttle dia- pulation 10. common tance, to amiable, mprove- lich they iat igno- void not its them- of their th of the In New- is for the on: and nd news- as their vernment y, almost e Etigiisli ground ; ng: in im- Catholic [tension ot i their in- emain de- , ilje edict ut Louis 1 4th, of 1667, and is the basis of the Civil Code. There were no lawyers before the conquest in 1759, when they were created ; and martial law prevailed from that time till 1774. The trial by jury was introduced in 1785 ; and the constitutional charter in 1791. There are many signs of prosperity exhibited by the farmers between Montreal and Three Hi vers, in the extension or erection of buildings. On each farm is usually to be seen about half an acre of Indian corn, which will furnish 18 or 20 bushels ; and it is the cus- tom not to build fences, the cattle being kept from the land, and fed on weeds until the crops are off. The houses are generally of one story, and are built of wood or stone, according to the nature of the coun- try. Some of them are formed of squared timbers, and even of round logs ; but the latter are usually em- ployed for the construction of barns only, which are often covered with thatch. The houses and bams are frequently composed of several small buildings, erected at different periods, according to the capacity or neces- sities of the proprietors. William Henry, or Sorel, 45 miles f or 15 leagues, from Montreal* This town, though quite small, is one of the princi* pal places between the two capitals ^t is on the south side of the St. Lawrence, at i louth of the Sorel, or Richelieu, in a very sandy situation; and contains nothing worthy of notice except a little old church, a palisadoed fort, and a neat little square, at the distance of a short walu, surrounded with several pretty white houses, a church, &c. a little in the New- England style. The fences are generally low, and afford the sight of gardens. The flowers which abound in the Canadian gardens pre principally roses, carnations, sweet-williams, can- 21i> UOVTK TO QUEBEC. didus, monthly roses (blossoming only a part of t&^ year). As the steamboats usually stop here half an hour or more, there is time enough to go on shore. The popu- lation principally consists of disbanded soldiers, so that the dwellings are generally poor, and most of the peo- pie speak some direct of English. The garrison con- tains only 30 or 40 men in time of peace, and the com- manding oflBcer has a pretty residence opposite the town, where the fields have a green and fertile ap- pearance. The Government House stands about three-quarters of a mile beyond the town. It is a large red building, with barracKS near it. The boat turns round on leav- ing Sorel, and returns to the St. Lawrence, the distant land beginning to have some elevation. On the opposite point, Gen. Montgomery erected batteries on taking tne place, in 1776, and prepared rafts and floating oatteries, which maintained an en- gagement with the ships in which Gov. Carleton at- tempted to escape to Qjiiebec, and drove him back towards Montreal. He afterward passed them in an open boat at night ; but his vessels fell into the hands 01 the Americans. Berthier is on the opposite side of the St. Lawrence, but out of sight, being behind several low islands. Some of the steamboats stop there instead of at Sorel. There is a ferry across. Lake St. Peter. On entering this large tract of water, the shores at the opposite end appear like mere lines upon the hori- zon, the land being still so flat near the river as to seem hardly sufficient to prevent it from overflowing. A vessel at the opposite end appears like a mere «peck, the length of the lake beit^" 20 miles. Pointe. (in Lnr, or Woodlands, is seen on tbo northern THREE KlVKRiS. 217 of th^ hour or B popu- , so that he peo- lon con- be coin- site the tile ap- quarters »uilding, on leav- i distant erected >repared . an en- eton at- im back m in an ]e hands Lwrence, islands. at Sorel. shores at the hori- er as to rflowing". a mere northern iihore, when nearly across ; but it is situated beyond the lake. A ridge of hi^h land continues on the north, following the coqrse of the river. Opposite Woodlands is NicoleU 9 miles from Three Rivers. The place is large, and contains an English and a French church, together with a nunnery, and a college, founded by the Catholic bishop of Quebec. Three Rivers, [Trois Rivieres,] Halfway. This is the largest town between Montreal and Que- bec, and is 96 miles from the former, and 84 from the latter. The streets are generally straight, and regu- larly built, though narrow ; and the houses, although neat, are generally only one or two stories high, with windows in the roofs, aiKi being principally plastered, have rather a dark aspect, like those of Montreal. It contains shops of various sorts, and several inns of a decent appearance. The Nunnery is in the etst part of the town, and has extensive gnxinds connected with it. The Chapel of the Convent has a number of pic- tures, of which the one on the right ot the main altar is the best : Magdalen weeping. The Parish Church is in the south part of the town. Two large buildings, formerly the Court House and Jail, with the Nunnery, are the principal objects. While the American forces were on the retreat from Quebec, in 1775, Gen. Sullivan sent Gen. Thompson duvvn from Sorel to attack this place. He went down the right bank of Lake St. Peter, and landed 9 miles from the town ; but being discovered and misled, he found Gen. Frazer drawn up in order of battle, while Gen. Nesbit was sent to cut off his retreat ; and the battle, which immediately commenced, was short and disastrous to the assailants, who lost their commander, and many officers and soldiers, as prisoners, although they had few killed. After several hours we ap^ proach T « \ ^ /y ' llOCTJi TO airEI{£r. '^ L« BigneuXf a village on the south side oi the river^ known by its double-spired church. It stands on a steep bank, about 60 feet high, and marks the com- mencement of the Richelieu rapids. The river here winds between broken banks, and the number of cottages is so great as to make the scene more animating. A few blue, but not lofty, mountains are seen down the river. Rafids of Richelieu. The river, which is about two miles wide, here runs with great velocity, particularly the first three miles ; but the water is deep, and the surface unbro- ken, except near the shores, which are lined with in- numerable loose round stones and rocks, extremely dangerous to vessels when they get among them. These rocks seem placed with much regularity, form- ing two ranges, and making the water appear as if it had a gradual swell from both sides to the middle of the river. Although the navigation of this part of the St. Lawrence requires great skill and caution in other vessels, steamboats pass with security ; yet, on account of the force of the current at ebb tide, even they are obliged to vary their hours of leaving Quebec, in such a way as to have the flood through the rapids. Ves- sels are often seen waiting at the bottom of the rapids for a change of tide, or for a steamboat to tow them up. The rapids extend about nine miles. Si, Anto{ne,on the south bank, is 18 miles (6 leagues) frojn Quebec. The mountain seen towards the north- cast is that of Lorette, and the bank on that side makes a beaidtiful slope to the river, agreeably varied by cultivated fields, interrupted by occasional patches of woodland : on the side of the ridge, about midway from the water to the top, passes the road. The south shore, on the contrary, continues high and abrupt, and nearly perpendicular, with innumerable cottages peep^ insf over the brow. Wolfe's cove. iilii e river, Is on a B €om- kS) and le scene )untains le, here it three 1 unbro- vith in- tremely ; them. f, form- ' as if it iddle of t of the in other account hey are in such Ves- e rapids w them eagues) e nortii- i makes ried by tches of nidwav le souHi apt, and Bspeepji Pointe aux Trembles, a village on the north shore. The river is about the same breadth all along here^ viz. about two miles, although it appears much nar- rower ; the depth is about nve fathoms, and the tide rises 14 or 15 feet. Notwithstanding the thickness of the population on the chores, the country is a wilder- ness only about four miles back, being comprehended in what is called the King^s Hunting Ground, which ex- tends from Three Rivers, 40 or 50 mMes below this place. Jacques Cartier, 30 miles from Quebec. This is a village on the north side, situated at the mouth of the river of the same name, which is likewise distinguished by the name of the first explorer of the river St. Law- rence. Here are the remains of the first church built in Canada. Carouge Creek, on the north side. Here a pretty view opens, for a few minutes, into the interior, on the north shore, showing the Indian village of Lorette, at the distance of three or four miles, with an extent of beautiful land, and a range of fine nnountains in the rear. Chaudiere River is a little below, with a rock on the lower side, at its mouth. Looking down the St. Lawrence, part of Point Levi is seen, covered with white buildings, one of which is the church. It is opposite Quebec, which remains for a considerable distance invisible. The banks rise to a greater and greater height, and present every variety of surface. Sillefu Cove is a mile below, above which was fought tne final battle between the English and French, in 1759, after the capture of Quebec by General Wolfe, which completed the conquest of Canada. Ai the village are the remains of the first church ever built in Canada. Wo^^s Cove is behind the next point. This is the place where Wolfe landed in the night, and up the precipitous bank he climbed with his troops, after- Avard drawing up his cnnnon. Here Gen. Arnold 220 UUEJIEC. afterward took up liis troops, in 1755. 'i'herc is a re* markable rock projecting trom the bank, at the head of the cove, a little to the right of which is seen a road runnii^ up the hill, at the place where the troops went up, when there was nothing but a footpath. The spot is about a quarter of a mile west of a lai^e yellow house above tne bank. Cape Diamond is the abrupt bluff in which termi- nates the high land on the north, and under the oppo* site side of which Quebec is situated. It is 348 feet high, and the fortified lines on its brow belong to the city walls, and the citadel, which is included by them. The telegraph is raised on the Cavaliers' Battery, and the round buildings on the ridge are Martello towers, which serve as advanced works to the fortress. The opposite point is Point Levi ; and the nfiountains of St. Anne and Tourmente appear many miles down the river. General Montgomery was killed lust at the base of Cape Diamond, in attacking a blockhouse on the ehore^ in 1775. QUEBEC. ; The Lower Town of Quebec begins near this spot, and stretches along at the foot of the rock, while the Upper Town soon begins to open to view above, though the principal part of it is on the top and the opposite side. The harbour requires a pier for its protection, on account of the extreme rapidity of the currents caused by the tide, and particularly the ice. The subject has been recommended to the government. The Castle of ^. Louis, or the Governor's HousCi overhangs the precipice, being built on supporters ; and makes a conspicuous appearance, interrupting the city wall, which encloses the Upper Town. The new Monument to Wolfe and Montcalm is also visible frsi2. appearance than when seen from the water. Ti.^ -reet beyond commands a fine view • and there ar : -.-/eral beautiful terraced gardens formed on the steep side of the rock, almost overhanging the buildings in the lower towi}. The Ibrtifications of the city on the land side are strong, and worthy of particuhr attention; as before ■iu ^>. .1*^. ^V.'^oS^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1.25 ■f i^ IIIIM I "^ Ilia :ir 1^ IIIIIM 1.8 U 11.6 — 6' <^ /A 7 .>. ^i> 7 ^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14S80 (716) 872-4503 ( with wickets so placed as not to face each other. Near the Hospital is part of the old French wall, about 50 feet high, whicn contains gentlemen's gar- dens. ■ -v 'fiitJpM 4 M''' The Citadei;, ■^f'fi,ii-M ■\ on Cape Diamond, is designed for a place of impreg- nable strength. It has been gradually progressing tor a number of years, and is not expected to be soon completed. Admission may be usually obtained by application to the proper officers, and necessary in- formation may be gained at the hotels. The British government intended to devote 5000/. per annum on these works ; but as the money is sometimes delayed, they are occasionally exposed to some interruptions. In 1827 about 78,000/. were still thought necessary to render the citadel defensible. Most of the works are new, though some parts of the old have been made to serve. They include five or six acres, on the very summit of Cape Diamond, and extend . to the verge of the precipice, 348 feet above the St. Lawrence. There are to be four bas- tions and one demi-bastion, a ravelin, in advance of the western bastion, and other out-works. The walls are about 40 feet high, and built perpendicularly, of fine hewn stone ; the ditch being blasted out of the solid rock, and about 50 feet wide. After making two an- gles on the west of the gate, the new walls join the old. ii'i '/l^fLU. ,•*':> -■'^' h,t iiu ;>. ;--;>^.' '■''ii* -n '•^' ^; A^rjIJ-^^^r Th^ Casemates, Entering the gates and passing behind the wall, a continued line of large rooms is discovered following the wall, built of substantial brick work, and arched over head with such strength as to be bomb-proof. These rooms, which are known by the technical name of Casemates, are about 50 feet long, 20 wide, and 16 or 18 high, each to be U mm ■IL 226 UUEUEC. lighted by a door and two small windows, looking in* ward, and pierced at the other side, with five loop holes each, for musketry. These loop holes are on the new plan, narrow inside, and opening with steps faced with iron, to prevent musket snot from glancing in. There are to be about 40 casemates : these are all towards the land side, the natural defence of the pre- cipice over the water being sufficiently strong to pre- vent the attempts of an enemy in that direction. The casemates will communicate with each other by fold- ing doors, which may be thrown open the whole length of the bomb-proofs, and will then furnish space for the whole garrison (from 3000 to 6000 men) to parade at once. The Subterranean Passage leads frdm a little stair- case in the bastion next east of the gate, under the ditch, to a small out-work with two or tnree casemated rooms. The stairs are so narrow as to admit only one person at a time, and are constructed in a spiral form, and in the neatest manner. The passage, which is about 130 feet lon^, has also two branches where guards might be placed to prevent intrusion. The cooking rooms, for part of the garrison, are near the second bastion ; ana over the whole are to be mounted larere cannon. Brock's Battery, a work of wood and earth, raised during the late war with the United States, is to be partly retained and converted into a Cavaliers' Bat- tery. This, as well as the magazines, barracks, offi- cers* quarters, &c. is within the works ; and at the corner next the river and town, is the old Cavaliers- Battery, a very heavy stone building, originally erected for the palace of the French governors of Qpebec : below it, at the water's edge, Gen. Montgomery was killed. It has dark vaults, the walls are six feet thick, near the ground, and from the Telegraph on the top is one of the finest views that can be imagined: the btoad surface of the St. Lawrence Jies below, and «tiietc!ies off far to the right and left ; the whole city TAPE DIAMO>D. 007 ot Qjiiebec is crowded together almost beneath you, while Point Levi, with its white buildings, is seen op- posite, with a long stretch of lofty shores. Turning the eye in the opposite direction, the beautiful ridge of land, which begins many miles down the river on the northern side, and rise< with a gentle swell from the shore, covered with the richest and most varied display of cultivation, offers a most delightful view over an extensive and fertile region, beautiful in form, divided into innumerable portions, cultivated by a dense and industrious population, and scattered with their clustered dwellings. On the left appears, among other villages, that of Lorette, with the Montreal road for nine miles almost I'ned with houses ; and on the right that of Beaufort, occupying the ridge of the high ground, while a little beyond it is the chasm into which the River Montmorency plunges, with its fa- mous cataract, just before it joins the St. Lawrence. All the horizon in that direction, and indeed from the west to the north, and quite to the east, is broken by ranges of fine mountains, some of them near and bold ; anain other places, between them, distant blue ridges are disclosed, three, four, or five in succession. Tso- nonthuan Mountain, which has two summits and is 2000 feet high in the north-west, is the southern ex- treme of the granite range reaching from the Labrador coast to Lake Superior. In the south and south-west, where an aperture is left, is a distant and lower range, scattered with cottages. It may, perhaps, not be ha- zarding too much to say, that no scene in Canada, or the United States, can boast of a combination of ob- jects comparable in variety and magnificence to those here presented to view. Cape Diamond derives its name from the beautiful little ror.k -crystals, which are found in veins of white crystalized limestone, disseminated in the black lime- stone blasted out tor the works. The quartz stones !ised in the walls are very fine, and are brought from three miles above the city. Of those prepared for S28 UUEJBEC. ,.>L corner stones ol' a bastion, near the old governor s house, are homogeneous masses of granular quartz, weighing Ij or 2 tons, or even more. Some of the crystals are perfect and brilliant, though small. There is a long staircase of many steps, leading from this elevated position down to tne Lower Town by which it was originally intended to draw up heavy articles. . - , ^. », - The Plains of Abraham. i r This interesting tract of ground, the field where Gen. Wolfe succeeded, by a bold and decisive blow, in capturing the city of Qjuebec in 1759, lies at only about the distance of a mile, and should not be ne- glected. Indeed it would be found ampl^ to repay the trouble, to make a much longer excursion in that direction, as the road is fine and the country inte* resting.* ■• > '' ; •[ ^J^'^-'^' • -> ■■ ' * After tlic battle of Montmorency, while the English fleet lay :ip thu river, at one o'clock in the night of September 12th, 1759, Gen, Wolfo quietly transported liis troops from the fleet into the boats, and cautiously passed down the river. lie intended to land two or three miles abovo Cape Diamond, and get possession of the Heights of Abraham : but was drifted down so rapidly that he passed the place without discovering it, and then resolved to attempt a landing at VSTolfe's Cove, just above the city. The shore is bold, and the rocks so high and steep, that only a few sentinels were posted alonp; the precipices and the margin. This despe- rate enterprise, however, did not discourage the leader or his troops; but un hour before daybreak they had eflected their landing, and commenced the arduous ascent by a narrow, broken path, at the top of which was station<;d a captain's guard. As fast as the English reached the summit they formed on the level plain. At ten o'clock Montcalm arrived from above, and a battle was fought, which decided the fate of Canada. Montcalm stationed 1500 sharp shooterK in front but the British coolly stood their ground till the French were within 40 yards, wiien they opened their Are, and soon afterward termiiittird iii« cuKUKt^'tieHi with tl.oir haynnets. The place where the greatest carnage was made, is near the river's bank, wnero ths Engiinh left was closely engaged with the French right. The action lasted two hours, and in it both chiefs received their mortal wounds. Gen. Wolfe was shot In two or three places. When hardly any signs of life remained, news was Itrought that the dayh^d declared for the British; "Th?n,*« 98i(i he, "I ^19 coritejit.'? WOLl i; 8 CON i\ '^tJ Passing out at St. Louis's Ciatc, you observe a number ot* handsome dwellings and gardens, until you get some distance beyond the towers, when you turn into the Race Course on the left side ot" the road. The foundation of a monument to Wolfe and Montcalm was laid in the city in 1827. The spot where Gen. Wolfe fell is near the corner of the fenced field, ofi* towards the river. A little east of the place, is the remnant of a breastwork, with several angles, marked out by bushes, and comn^anding a fine view. The British line was first formed across the plain, and ran near the house by the road, and the battle was fought pi'incipaliy on that ground. The Plains ot Abraham are about a quarter of a mile in breadth, extending a great distance towards the west, with a gentle slope on each side, and so smooth as to oflfer an admirable field for the manoeu- vring and displa}^ of troops. From the old breast- work, not only this ground is overlooked, but the ship- ping in Wolfe's Cove, the opposite shore, the river to the next turn, &c. The spot appears, indeed, infe- rior in elevation only to Cape Diamond and the middle tower. Wolfe's Cove I i"'.i n ■ is about a mile further west, or half a mile beyond the large house seen near the river's bank. A branch of the road leads off to it from the left, and descends to the shore by a passage cut out long since the time of Gen. Wolfe, as the cove is now a great deposite for lumber. The course which he followed up the bank, lay along the channel of a little brook, which leads off to the right, while the road goes straight up the bank. . TT»> 2:X> QVEUCi . . ^iSGE OF Quebec in 1776. The scenes we have thus briefly recalled are not the only ones of a military character of which this commanding and delightful plain has been the theatre. In 1776, soon after the commencement of the Revo- lution, the Continental Congress prepared an expedi- tion against Canada. It consisted of two divisions : one under Gen. Mont8:omery came down Lake Cham- plain and took St. John's, Chambly, Sorel, Three Rivers, and then proceeded down the St. Lawrence to this place. The other, under Gen. Arnold, took the route through the wilderness of Maine for Q,"jebec. Arnold had 10 companies of infantry, besides 3 of riflemen, and one of artillery, with a few volunteers. Thev proceeded up the Kennebeck, but sufllered so mucn irom fatigue and scarcity that many fell sick, and one division returned. The remainder, however, reached Point Levi on the 9th of November, and alarmed the city. The batteaux had been removed, and the strong wind detained them from crossing, after they had been supplied by the Canadians. The Eng- lish frigate Lizard and several other v< <5sels were also in the river. He at length, however, effected a land- ing a little above Wolfe's Cove, and marching down the shore climbed up the rocks at that place, and sur- rounded the city without efl*ect. He then retired '40 miles to Pointe aux Trembles, and waited for Gen. Montgomery, who arrived, after great trials, Dec. 1st, with about 300 men. The two generals afterward marched to Quebec, and planting their mortars on the snow and ice, fired into the town with little efiect. The small pox broke out, and the cold was severe ; but the town was at- tacked at four points at once, in a snow storm, without success. Montgomery was killed, on the shore, about 100 yards from the foot of the railway, under Cape \\i HOAl) TO DEAUFOHT. 281 Diamond. One detachment was taken, and Arnold retired three miles and intrenched himself. ■;.' '( The Falls of Montmorency. ' •»! (i'» Hire a coach, a gig, a caleche or a saddle horse, and set out, if possible, early in the morning. In a caleche, you will have the advantage of a guide in your driver. rass through the Palace gate and a village divided from Quebec only by the wall, cross the bridge over St. Charles's river, which forms a regular serpentine, and enter the beautiful cultivated plain beyond. A Convent and hospital are seen about a mile on the left, and a handsome succession of fields is observed on both sides, divided by low palings. At the dis- tance of a mile and a half the road passes several country houses. * >n 'vio;; Riding down the coast, at a considerable elevation from the river, many fine views are presented of the opposite banks, the isle of Orleans, the mountains of St. Anne and Tourmente down the river. The dwel- lings are small, and the inhabitants poor and numer < us. The channel south of the isle of Orleans is the only one used by ships for some years past, but the northern has been surveyed recently. The latter is that by which Admiral Saguenay's deetcame up with Wolfe s army. Beaufort is a village principally composed of such buildings, stretching for a great distance along the road. Just before entering it, some large mills are seen on the right, standing on a stream which crosses the path, and beyond there is a natural pavement formed of the horizontal rock. There is a small church here, with three steeples, prettily situated on the river's bank, with a patch of grass and trees around it ; but it contains nothing worthy of particular attention. On approaching the Montmorency, the road turns to iiJa Uli:U£C. the left) and then to the right, on an extensive, smooth, and gradual ascent, part of which was the field of a bloo(fy slaughter, suffered by a division of Gen. Wolfe's army, in 1759, a short timn previous to his battle on the Heights of Abraham. The position of the armies will be more easily understooa on reaching the oppo- site side of the river : it is therefore sufficient to re- mark here, that the French lines were bounded by the nearer bank, as the remains of their intrenchments on the left still testify ; and that the British came up from the shore of the St. Lawrence on the right, to attack two of their nearest batteries, before the second of which they were cut to pieces. Dismounting in a little wood and fastening the horses, you may proceed along the precipitous bank of the Montmorency, by a footpath* to see the falls from this side. As it is a difficulj^/lvay, and the view more fine and unobstructed from the opposite side, it is hardly worth the trouble, unless you have plenty of time. lou have to clamber rocks, pass dpwn a lon^* ladder, and stand on the verge of an abyss into which the cataract dashes. Water is drawn off here in a wooden race, for the supply of Mr. Patterson's great saw-mills, which are worthy of being visited. It is better, therefore, to follow the road on foot, to cross the bridge f where you pay a sows), and enter- ing the fields on tne right, follow down the course ot' the river. There are several fine points of view, from which the falls appear to great advantage ; but on account of the height and steepness of the banks, it is necessary to descend towards the St. Lawrence, and then return by the margin, to obtain a sight o( them from below. ',, On the fine elevated point formed by the junction of the two rivers, and commanding an uncj^^tructed view upon the St. Lawrence for many miles up and down, with several lofty mountains below, the isle of Orleans opposite, Qjuebec above, and the cataract close at hand, the British here took a strong position in July. FALLS OF MOKTMORENCV. 2:iii 1759 ; and from this place made a bold, but unsuc- cessful attempt against their enemies on the opposite side. The remains of their intrenchments are plainly visible under our feet. The natural and artificial strength of the city combined, was enough, even in those days, to discourage any attempt against it from the water ; and in order to prevent an approach by land, the French occupied two strong positions at a distance above and below it : the former at Silleiy River, the other at the Montmorency. Wolfe here made a first, but unsuccessful attempt ; and afterward, b3r a still more desperate blow, accomplished bis wishes at the plains of Abraham. For an account of the battle of Montmorency, we refer to the note.* The best view of the cataract is to be enjoyed from the spur of the rock, which projects from the eastern shore : but the spray, which keeps the surface covered with a coat of green, will drench the clothes in a few minutes. The height of the fall ij^ $aid to be ^40,feQt ; and * Battlk 0? Montmorency. , > ■ >• . » When Gen. Wolfe came to operate against Quebec in June, 1750, he posted his army on tlie Island of Orleans while the fleet blockaded: the port. At the end of that month General Monckton was sent over to Foint Levi, and established himself there^ whence he was able to fire upon the city. Above the river Montmorency, the It^nJing was pro- tected by the Marquis de Montcalm. Gen. WoiCe laiuied hia troops at the mouth of the Montmorency during the night of July 31st, and erected a battery on the precipice north-east of the fulls, tlie remains of which are to be seen. Tiie French were intreiKhed along the oppoflite bonk ; and on the 31st of July, Gen. Wolfe sent his troops to ford the Mont- morency below the falls, to storm their works. Some of Gen. Monckton'a force from Point Levi in crossing with boats got aground, and difAculty ensued ; but the landing was nmde in the afteruoon on the beach to the right of the saw -mills. They came however too late : for the thirteen grenadier companies, with 20U Americans, who hadlanded before, refused to wait or to form, as had been intended, in four columns, but inarched tumultuously round the rock, and rushed Up hill in a mass towards the French works, at some distance back from the old redoubt on the point, which had been deserted. A wann Are however was directed against them, which cut down about 500 men, and they were obliged to retreat to the redoubt, whence they were ordered back to the beach to form, The enterprise was then interrupted hv a severe storm, and finally 5?jnnf?ono(i. o-^i ^34 UtEBEO. f the banks on both sides below form a precipitous and frightful precipice, of rather a curving form, of bare, sharp, slaty rock, whose strata incline from north to south, and the perpendicular veins run nearly N. W. and S. E. At low water the Montmorency may be forded, with some caution, where it was passed by the Britigh troops : but the tide rises fast and high.* The Saw-Mills f built by Mr. Patterson, are situated behind the western shore of the Montmorency. They are all contained in one large building, where the wa- ter enters at the third story in three channels, moving six gates in the second story, and five in the first. These eates are collections of'^saws, containing 6 or 8 each, wnich cut up whole logs into planks or boards at once. The rafts of timber are stopped above the mill, taken apart, and thus floated down by a little canal, whence they are drawn up by machinery, several logs being bound together by a chain, and laid before the saws. Vast quantities of sawn lumber are generally to be seen here on the wharves, readj for shipping. The mill contains 80 single saws, besides 5 circular ones, which perform their work with great rapidity. The Baron Renfrew, an immense timber ship, was launched from the island of Orleans in 1825. It was a built vessel, although of a rude construction. It was 305 feet in length, 60 feet beam, depth of hold 35 feet, from the keel to the taffrail 50, bowsprit 60 feet, main- mast above deck, 75 ; whole, 100 ; main yard 72. She was 14 feet between decks ; the tiller was 28 feet lon^ ; chain cable 120 fathonos 2h inch iron ; the anchor;; weighed 75 and 90 cwt., and her measurement was 5,282 tons. She was loaded with timber in bulk, and carried above 6000 tons of it ; but was lost on the coast of France. , * A survey was iriade, in 1829, of the country in the rear of the existing settlements ana grants between Quebec and the St. IVfaiirice : the first great rocky mountainous barrier is at a distance of aboiit ftvr-and-twcnty leagues from the St. Lawrence. \n this space ar^ffiund three grrrir •\(- V 1 * -5^ ^ m KOiTE i'JlUJI Ul^LliLC TO UUSION. rso The Village op Lorette ' may be taken in the way returning from Montmorency, if tiiere should be time enough remaining (which is barely possible), and the ride alon^ the high ridge leading in that direction, will be found delightful.' Lorette is an Indian village, with a Catholic cnurch, and the stranger may furnish himself with moccasins, belts, pipes, &c. Route from Qtiebec to Boston. It is proposed, by the !;tate of Maine, to open a road from Haliowell up the course of the Kennebeck river, to the Canada line near Qjuebec. There is a communication kept up to some extent between the two places, and considerable numbers of cattle are driven every year that way ; but for a great distance it is necessary to pass through a wilderness, and in consequence of the want of inhabitants, there is no shelter to be found for man or beast, for several days' journeys. The names and distances of the principal places on this wild and un- frequented route, are given below. When the pro- posed road shall have been opened, it will be found a convenient way to New-England, for those who do not wish lo return by Montreal, and will become peooled and frequently travelled. This is the route by which <<(in. Arnold approached Quebec in 1775. Quebec to the Chaudiere, or iiivjere du Loup . . .' • 60 miles. valleys, tliatof the JacqiiesCartiur,of the St. Anne, and of theBatiscan I i vrvk. Thu settlements of Sionehain, Valcarticr, and Fossainbault lie ni tho flr«t valley; the other two valleys are of considerable extent, and (ontuin a lurgu quantity of cultivable lands of good quality. These > alleys are depurated from each other by rocky highlands. On traversing the {,'reat barrier at the head waters of the Jacques Cariicr river, we loach at the distance of half a mile the liead waters of the Cbicotinii river, wiilch enipties itself at the port of that name. Tliis river is well known to the Lorette Indians, who represent the country through v.hich i' pa?pe8 as a'togethcr unsusceptible of culture TM\ Ul ICiiDt . Moose Kivcr 3? 97 Forks of tho Kennebeck 24 12t Upper settlement on do 12 I'J.l Haflowell 67 200 Boston 170 370 Another route alotkg the Penobscot is also to be sui- veyed by the authority of the state of Maine. ; , Land route from (Quebec to Montreal, Upper road* (The pleasanter.) 1st post Lorettc, 16 miles. 2d 3d 4th 5th 6th 7th 0th Jacques Cartier) 16 Descham beaux, 16 St. Anne, 16 Batiscamp, n Champlain, 9 Aux Cayes, Trois Kivieres, H V Lower Road* •.■'■.If. tstpost, Cape Rou^e, 9 ad 8t. Augustine, 3d Pointe aux Trembles, . . . . 8 4th Ecureil, 9 5th Cape Sante, 9 (Garneau's inn, called ^Hhe Three SisterSf'^ is excellent.) 6th Deschambcaux, &c. . . . . . 8 miles. Under the administration of Gov. Craig, in Canada, a road was opened between this province and the pre- sent territoiy of Maine ; and the inhabitants of the states continuing it, a stage coach actually ran from (Quebec to Boston, which is 270 miles distant. It was afterward neglected ; and the road became so much oversrown- that it would require clearing again to be iisefiil. ItOtJTESi FROM UUEll^C'. 5^;-i7 ROUTES FROM QUEBEC. Road from Quubfx' to Montreal. For remarks on the advantages of travellings by land on the St. Lawrence) compared with those offered by the steamboats, see pnge 211, recollecting: that the passug^e in the latter is several hours longer up the river than down. 1'he country for bome miles above Quebec is more varied in its surfuce^ than that below Montreal ; and caleches and gigs may be obtained here as well as there. It is to be hoped that regular stage coaches will soon be established on the road. On page 236 is an enumeration of the villn^es and best mns. The former are generally nine miles apart, but the distances are particularized. Steamboat. Engage an early passage to Montreal. In 1828, the shortest passage ever known was made in a steamboat to Montreal, m about 23;^ hours. Leaving tht^ dock, you pass under Cape Diamond, nearly at the foot of which General MorUgomery was killed in 1775. WoJfeh Carve is about a mile beyond. See page 229. For the other places along the St. Lawrence, see the map, and the notices ol them in the route from Montreal to Quebec. Rapids of Richelieu^ page 218. Three Rivers, page 217. Lake St. Peter, page 216. William Henry, or Sorel, page 215. Montreal, page 199. See the route from Montreal to Lake Ontario and Niagara. ■P T3t BOUTE FKOM CANADA r F&OM MOXVTREAL TO LaKE ChAMPLAIN^ AND THE United States. Those who are returning by this route, may be ad- vised to cross to Longeuil instead of La Prairie, and ^o to St. John's by the way of Chambly. The distance IS nearly the same, the passage of (he river is effected . in a good horseboat, the country is much finer and better cultivated, and the old castle or tower of Chambly is of some interest for its history. It will be necessary, however, to make particular arrangements for a carriage, and to take every precaution to arrive at St. John's in season for the steamboat. From Mqd- treat to Longueil 3 miles, Longueil to Chambly 1% thence to St. John's 15. , ., , . Chambly. This is a small village. Near the middle of it stands the old fort, on a point, surrounded by a ditch. It is an old square buildmg, perhaps 180 feet on each side, with bastions at the corners, but incapable of withstanding heavy cannon. This fort was taken by Majors Brown and Livingston, in 1755, who were sent out with a strong detachment by Gen. Montgomery, while he was besieging St. John's. The garrison, being very feeble, surrendered. St. John's : see pa^e 194. In the last war the British had 6000 men hutted here for a year and a half. Passage from St. John's to Whitehall. Four steamboats run from St. John's to Whitehall. They go every day. St. John's. Isle aux Noix 10 miles. mmm PASSAGE UP LAKE CHAMPLAIX. 239 Rouse's Point 11 miles. Chazy 12 Plattsburgb 15 Port Kent 8 Burlington* 10 \ Charlotte, Essex 15 Port Clinton 10 Dalliba's Works, > a Port Henry, S Chimney Point 12 Ticonderoga 15 ^ Whitehall 25 ^or the principal places on the lake, see the Index. the time when Gen. St. Clair evacuated Ticon- ^a, in 1777, the following arrangements were made etreat. The baggage, hospital furniture, sick, park of artillery, stores, and provisions, embarked ^^Ander Colonel Long, under strong convoy, in 200 bat- fsaux and five armed galleys. The mam army went |b Castleton, with St. Clair at the head and Col. jpancis in the rear, and the general rendezvous was at . okeonesborough (Whitehall.) A house which took fire on Mount Independence attracted the attention of the British, who soon began the pursuit. Gen. Frazer, with grenadiers and light troops, with Reidesel behind him, followed by land; while Burgoyne cut through the boom and bridge, and sailed up Wood Creek. His gun>boats and ships overtook tne American flotilla, took two galleys, blew up three, and the Americans set fire to the rest and fled on to Fort Anne. On leaving Ticonderoga, the lake soon becomes much narrower. At about nine miles distance, the Scotch Farms are seen on tlie western shore. They are in the township of Putnam, and present an aspect less wild than most of the surrounding scenes. Looking back on Ticonderc^a from this place, * Pr«m this town thpre \9 a finp rond to Bosmn 240 BOVTE FROM CANADA. Mount Defiance appears at about nine miles distance. It descends on the left to the Scotch Farms, which are princii)ally cleared land, and is a good landnaark. Beyond it is another mountain sloping like it. Ticon- deroga here appears to close up the passage of the lake, with Sword's Point on the left. The Four Channels. Fourteen miles from Whitehall, the lake suddenly contracts itself into four narrow passages, between two ranges of mountains, which in some places present per- pendicular precijsices ; an(f its bed, at low water, ap- Ssars almost entirely occupied by a little meadow of e brightest green, through whicn the channels v'^ " with beautiful serpentines. The sceile is highly turesque, the rocky points on both sides bein| abrupt as to seem as if forcibly parted by an e^^ a uake, or a very swift and powerful stream. EveJ distant object is entirely shut out, and the batp;^ j sent a strikini? aspect of wildness and seclusion^ Some distance beyond, where the creek enti small tract of level ground, it passes between remarkable rocks, with precipitous banks like walls^ about 50 feet high, like great natural bastions erected to guard the straits. A succession of beautiful little serpentines are passed, with ragged precipices, and many little patches of level ground on the margin of the water ; while on the eastern side the tow path accompanies the bank. South Bay opens to the south, and runs down five miles between high mountains. Here the creek takes a sudden turn to the east, communicating with the bay by a little channel sometimes scarcely 20 yards across. General Dieskau took this route with his army, in going towards Fort Edward. inl755. WHITEHALL. i>4i Deer are sometimes seen here in passing. On the «astem side of the ba^, on the mountain, is a natural ice-house about four miles oflf. (A precipice on the east is a good mark of the ap- proach to South Bay, in going up.) Thi Devifs Pulpit is a singular cavity in the face of a bare precipice on the eastern side of the creek, at a considerable elevation, in the form of a wedge, and so regular as to seem a work of art, although probably made by the falling of a mass of the rock. Distant mountains open to the view in front, as we proceed, with ranges of willows on the shore. The Elbow is a narrow part of the creek, with two short turns, through which the passage requires a very exact helm. 'W East Bay strikes off at the first bend, and makes up five miles, along a romantic country. A sugar-loaf hill will be observed at a little distance on the right, which rises above Whitehall, and makes the approach to that place quite picturesque. WHITEHALL. On the top of a rock over the harbour was formerly a battery, and in the town a blockhouse. Numerous boats and great quantities of lumber are usually seen here, as the Champlain or Northern canal begins at the bridge, where are two locks, with a sluiceway, and a rocky channel. Inns. — Rock's and Wing's. The heights at this place were occupied by Bur- goyne's right wing, V4^hile he was preparing to march towards Saratoga ; his centre was formed by Gen. Frazer; the Bruns wickers, on the left, rested on the river of Castleton ; and the Hessians were at the head f>f East Bav. 242 ROUTE FROM CA2«ADA. fioads,^StSi^e coaches go south, on the arrival of the steamboat m two directions : one on each side of Wood Creek and the Hudson river. That on the west side is recommended to those who are going directly on to Albany, as it passes along the route of the Cham- plain canal, by the ** Surrender Ground," and near the ** Battle Ground of Bemis's Heights." Coaches also go to the Springs. The survey of a canal route from Rutland to White- hall, N. Y. gives a descent of 211 feet, and an ascenk of 274 — the distance is 24 - miles. The height of land is west of Poultney river, 7 miles from Whitehall. Road to Boston, 178 m. through Walpole : iSce " //Mica?." %' To Albany, on the eastern side of the Hudson^ 79 m. West Granville 11 miles. East Granville* 3 Hebron 9 Salem 8 Cambridge ....... 16 Pittstown 13 Lansingburgh ...... 10 "" Saddle Mountain, whose lofty ridge will be seen from almost every point in ttiis vicinity, is said to be 4,0^ feet above the ocean, and 2,800 feet higher than the site ol Williams' College. It derives its name from its resemblance to a riding saddle. Snow lies late upon its top, where the climate is so cold as to admit only a stinted growth to the spruce, yellow birch, beech, fir, mountain ash, and other trees which are there to be found. Vegetation is there more than a month behind the valleys below. An excursion to the summit is not very difRcult, and affords fine views. The Catskill, Watchusett, Monudnoc, and Mount Holyoke are visible. Ji Miner ai Spring ia situated about 1^ miles north of the College in Wil- liamstown, and a tew hundred yards east of the Albany road. It is a tepid water and resembles that of New- Lebanon— temperature 75 Fah- renheit. Mr. West's house affords accommodations, baths, &c. to lodgers : and the spring has proved beneficial in cntaneous caseft. ROAD FROM WnilEUALL TO ALBAIS'V. 243 Troy 3 (see page 50) Albany 6 (see p. 39 & 46) To AiaAr^, an the tpeat side of the HudsoH^ 68 m. Fort Anne 12 Fort EHward 9 Here a coach passes to Saratoga Springs, Fort Miller 8 Schuylersville 6 fsee pae^ 159 J British Lines 7 (see page 136) Passing Bemis^s Heights, Stillwater 8 Borough 3 Watertbrd . ..... 8i New Mohawk Bridge . . . 1 (see p. 54 & 129) The road accompanies the course of Wood Creek, which is dammed and used for a canal, to which its narrowness and depth give it a strong resemblance. This creek is famous in the history of the operations in this region during the Revolutionary and French wars ; and after repeated exertions to clear it of the logs, &c., by which it was obstructed, it bore the troops sent against Canada, &c., which often passed by this route, from the days of Queen Anne. The scenery is agreeable, though rough ; and there is little cultiva- tion off the road Half a mile north of the village of Fort Anne, Wood Creek makes an elbow to a ledge of rocks, so near that there is but little space for the road between. Here Col. Sterry was overtaken, in the retreat from Ticonderoga, in 1777, by Burgovne*s troops, and an engagement took place, memorials of which are occa- uonally found in the soil to this day. A little south, on the brow of the hill, a quarter of a mile from the stage house, stood Fort Anne, in the Revolution. The old fort of the same name, built many years previously, and known in the French wars, was about 244 ROUTE F£UH CANADA. half a mile south of the village, od a gentle eminence a little east of the road, where some remains of the old intrenchments are still to be seen. The remains of Burgoyne's Road begin about two miles south of Fort Anne, at the foot of a hill, and are traced about three-fourths of a mile, near the present road to a wood. It was formed of logs, ana found necessaiy, to render the country passable with his cannoas and baggage wagons. The labour necessary for its formation, superadded to that of clearing Wood Creek of the obstructions which Gen. Schuyler had thrown into it after the retreat of the Americans, was one great cause of the delay of the British army, on this part of the road — a delay which allowed the f>eople time to resume their spirits, and the officers to ay plans, obtain resources, and prepare for the san- guinary scenes at Bemis^s Heights and the surrender at Saratoga. French Mountain opens to view a little beyond, with a succession of high grounds in the direction of South Bay, Lake George, &c. About half a mile above Fort £dward, stands an old tree, which marks the place where was perpetrated The Murder of Miss M'Crea. Miss M^Crea lived in the village of Fort Edward. In the Revolutionary war, a youn^ man named Jones, to whom she was betrothed, having attached himself to the English cause, and joined their forces in Canada, was invested with a captain's command in Gen. Bur- goyne's army. After tne retreat of the Americans From the lake, and while the British were approaching, he sent a party of Indians to Fort Edward to bring his intended bride to him, that he might secure her safety. She was very unwilling to proceed with her savage conductcs on the road towards Fort Anne; and had gone only half a mile when the Indians stopped to drink at a spring which still flows by the ■ I III v^Ri II n^m BAKER S FALLS. 245 line way side. While here they were met by another party of Indians despatched to hasten them on. Those who came last attempted to take her under their charge ; but the others, being determined not to ^ive her up alive, bound her to a tree that is yet standing nea^ the spring, and shot her dead with their muskets. Locks of her hair were borne to her lover to prove that the Indians had performed what they considered their duty to their employer. This story rang through the country ; and it was reported that Gen. Burgoyne encouraged, or, at least, permitted the murder. In indignant terms he denied the charge ; and there appears no probability that he had the least knowledge of it. He, however, was justly chaiigeable with a great offence against humanity, in bringing tribes of savages in his train, whose barba- rity he could never be sure of restraining. Fort Edward. This village was built in the neighbourhood of a fort raised during the war of 1755, for the defence of this point of the river. It was first called Fort Lyman af)er Gen. Lyman, of whom we have already had occasion to make honourable mention at Lake George. This spot was formerly called the First Carrying Place, being the point where, in the expeditions against Canada, the troops, stores, &c., were landed and taken to Wood Creek, a distance of 12 miles, where they were again embarked. Baker^s Falls, at Sandy Hill, are worthy of particular attention, and are seen to great advanl|g^e from some parts of the bank. The whole descent of the river at this place is about 75 feet. J 'i4(; NKW-YORK TO NEW-ENGLAND. Fort IJillei . The village still retains the name of a fort erected on the west side of the river, in former times. It was a work of insignificant size, situated on the bank and near Miller's Falls. The descent of the river here is rapid, and over a broken channel. The falls were formerly considered impassable with safety, until Gen. Putnam performed it while stationed at Fort Miller, in the French war. The Great Dam. Above Fort Edward, a large and expensive dam has been built across the river, and a canal cut along the bank to open a passage for boats. [The dam is 900 feet long.] [For places on any route selected by the traveller, see the Index.] TOUR OF NEW-ENGLAND. To Travellers going Eastward from New-York, It is recommended to the stranger who is travelling eastward to see the country, to determine on some plan for his journey before setting out. A stage coach* '*' The coach sets off for New-Haven every morning at 8 o'clock, from Jaques's stage office, in Cortlandt-street, passing through Harlsm on Manhattan Island, West Chester, East Chester, NewRochelle, Maina- ronee, and Rye, in the state of New- York ; and Greenwich, Stamford, Darien, Norwalk, Fairfield, Bridgeport, Stratford, M iiford, and Orange, in Connecticut. In Ilarlsni, the road passes near the East river, and gives a view of Hell Gate. flpvond Morrispania, the of tar.*» and mansion of the Hon. Gov. Morris i^ I. ■• V^" i:a8t kiveu. 'i4T view of tlorris i^ e^es every morning to Connecticut, and onward ; but tnis is not the most agreeable route. Steamboats go from New York to the following places on the northern shore of Long Island Sound : Norwalk, Stamford, Stratford, New-Haven, Connecticut river (and up that to Hartford), New-London (and Norwich), Newport (and Providence). EAST RIVER. Leaving New-York, in any of the East river steam- boats, the traveller has Brooklyn on the right (now the third town for s^ze in the state, and strictly a sub- urb of the capital). The JVavy yard, just beyond. The Railway f for ships, is above, on the west side. seen on the right: one of the finest for tastefiilness and extent in tluH part of the country. (See Battle of White Plains, page 23.) In the town of Horseneck, 33 miles from New-Vorlt, is a steei; hili descending towards the north, down which General Putnam once effected his escape from several British officers and soldiers during the revolu- tionary war, when returning from a scout. He drove his horse'hastily down the rocky hill side, a little east of tlie road, and near tiie fence, and saved so much distance as to elude his pursuers. West Chester, and the country about it, were at that period neutral ground ; and Mr. Cooper, the novelist, has made them the scene of his popular tale— "The Spy." In the town of Fairfield, 53 miles from New- York, a mile or two be- fore reaching the village, is a low, level piece of ground, on the right- hand side of the road, which was formerly an almost impenetrable swamp, and, at an early period of our history, was the scene of a bloody slaughter. It was hither that the remains of a powerful and terrible nation of Indians, called Pequods, having fled from their country about New-London and Grnton, after the destruction of their fort at Mystic by Capt. Mason, in 1636, were jitlier killed or taken captive. This was their last and total defeat, and extinguished their name as a nation. Much of the ground has been cleared in modern times ; and some relics have been found to confirm the traditions of the neighbourhood. This place was burned by the British in the Revolution. Danbury, an inland town, was also burned, with extensive public stores, and an action was fought in which Gen. Wooster fell. On the east side of Housatonnuc, or Stratford river, a mile or more above the bridge, was once a fort, built by the Indians of the place, to secure themselves against the Mohawks, who had subjugated most of the country on the western side of Connecticut river before the arrival of the English. It has been proposed to make a canal along the course of the Housatonnuc. _ TlfTTT" :248 IVEW-YOMK TO JNEW-ENGLAKI/. The old Penitentiary and Fever Hospital are jvsi above, on the shore. BlackwelVs Island, — The new Penitentiary has been erected on this insulated spot, which offers many ad- vantages for such an institution. The building is aboot 1000 feet from the south end of the island. Its foun- dation, which is solid rock, is about 5>0 feet above high water mark. The building, which is 200 feet in length by 50 in breadth, will contain 240 cells, each 3| Feet by 7, and separated by a partition t^ feet thkck. Opposite each cell there is an aperture In the outer wall, through which the inmate will receive a suffi- ciency of fresh air. The interior is upon the plan of the State Prison at Singsing, with the exception that the gallery around the cells is of iron instead of wood, the ascent to which is by a geometrical staircase. The doors to the cells are all of iron — indeed, the only wood in the building is in the roof, which may even be burned off without the least danger to the rest of the building. The stone of which the walls and floors are made, is the common gneiss, and was all quarried on the island and hewed by the convicts. The lime used in constructing the prison, was also burned on the island. Four sentinels are placed on elevated platforms in different parts of the island, who are allowed no intercourse either by word or sign wit> he prisoners. They are marched rank and file to their meals in a temporary building prepared for the purpose, where they also dispose themselves for sleep at the word of command, and sentinels march between their ranks during the night. No spiritous liquor is allowed to be brought upon the island. Four excellent springs of water afford them drink. The island is Ij miles in length and about 600 feet in width, and will yield abundance of vegetables. It was the design of the Corporation in purchasing this island, to make it the seat of punishment in all its forms. At the extremity of the island, opposite the Penitentiary, will be another for females — and between :SSiV^ -UAXES. 'M\) just been f ad- ibout foun- ibove eet in , each thick. outer I suffi" )lan of n that wood, The e only y even rest of 1 floors uanied le lime on the ittorms ed no ,soners. [a Is in a , where ivord of |r ranks ;d to be •inRS of this and the overseer's house on each side, will be twa other buildings for vagrants of both sexes. At Hell Gate, numerous objects present themselves on entering the bay. On the distant high ground, west, is seen the Lunatic Asylum ; a white blockhouse on the hill on the east side ; below it, an old fort by the water; and a number of handsome country houses along the green shore on the left. The first of these is Commodore Caauncey's, next, Mr. Schermerhom's; then, Messrs. Prime's, Astor's, &c. The surface of the river is broken by several rocks, and by the agitation of the water, particularly at the whirl called the Great Pot, a little north of the fort, and the rapid^ current on the opposite shore known by the name of the Hog's- Back. In coming from the north, almost the firs* view of New- York is here presented, between the western shore and Blackwell's Island, with a shot tower on the right. New-Haven. Tontine Hotel, Stage House (Stone's). Several pri- vate boarding-houses. This is decidedly one of the most beautiful towns in the United States. The soil is not very good, and the situation is low ; the town (or rather city) is laid out in squares, with straight and broad streets, and the elevated ground in the neigh- bourhood renders the approach very fine from almost fivery direction. It stands at the head of a spacious bay, with a lighthouse on the eastern point, a small fort on the shore, another on PixKpect Hill, and two Bluffs, called East and West Rocks, 2 or 3 miles behind the town. A more distant peak is seen between them, which is Mount Carmel. The long wharf is three quarters of a mile in length. The steamboats stop at the bridge, where carriages will be found in waiting to take travellers to the centre of the town, which is more than a mile distant. ^n the shore, near the bridjrc. is a large T)!nlding in y - ' J25U KOtTK IN CONNECTICUT. tended for a steamboat hotel, but now occupied as a School for the education of Boys^ by the Messrs. Dwight. The system resembles that of the Round Hill School at Northampton. The streets of the town are regular and pleasant, forming squares, one of which is a green surrounded by rows of elms, with three churches and the new State House in the middle, and the College buildings occupying the western side, pre- senting a scene pFobably not equalled by any town of this size in the United States. The abundance of fine trees, the neatness and beauty of the dwellings, the ^ood society of the p^ace, and the distinguishea posi- tion it holds as a seat of learning, render New-Haven the resort of a great number of strangers during the travelling season, and the temporary residence of not a few. Connecticut School Fund. — This fund now amounts to $1,882,251, or nearly two millions of dollars. By means of this fund, tne government of the state is enabled annually to return to the citizens nearly twice the amount withdrawn in taxes. It enables parents to educate their children almost gratuitously. There is a Hopkins's Grammar School in the town, and a number of Boarding Schools for young ladies, with inslruclers in every branch of useful and orna- men di education. A nourisWxne Lancasterian School in this place contains about 200 boys. Yale College. — This institution, however, is the prin- cipal object which will attract the attention of the stranger. It was founded in 1701, and first located at Killingworth, then removed to Saybrook, and after a few years permanently fixed in this town.* The fust building was of wood, and stood near the corner of College and Chapel-streets. There are now four buildmgs for students, each containing 32 rooms ; a Chapel, with c Philosophical chamber and apparatus, ♦ The expense of tuition, rooin,&c. far a year, ia about |50-~of board in Comuiou?, about $75, YALE OOLLtGK. I'&I Fnn- the ted at iter a iie fust ner ot four ms; a -of b9Ql<3 r*ri 0])seryatory and a Lyceum, with recitation rooms and the library. In the rear are the Gymnastic appa- ratus, the Commons Hall, in a small buildin^^ with the splendid Mineralogical Cabinet above, which is the finest collection of the kind in the United States, lately purchased from Colonel Gibbs of New-York. In another building is the Chemical Laboratory, where Professor Silliman delivers his lectures. The insti- tution contained, in 1829, 496 students, distributed! as folio /s: — Theoloeical Students, 49; Law Students, 21 ; Medical Students, 61 ; Resident Graduates, 6 ; Seniors, 71; Juniors,' 87 ; Sophomores, 95 ; Freshmen, 106. rOt An Observatory has recently been erected, after the model of the Tower of the Winds at Athens, and in like manner surmounted with a Triton. Next north of the College is the house of President Day, and the professors have pleasant residences in the town. The new State House and the churches on the green, present a remarkably fine appearance ; with the College buildings and numerous elegant houses around it. The Medical Institution is at the north end of Col- lege-street. Like many other buildings in the place, it is of rough stone, covered with plaster. The canal passes just in the rear. In 1826 there were 336 students who received de- grees in all the colle&fes of New-England. The number of students in all the Medical Schools in the United States in that year was about 1700. Colleges in New-England, — There were 1399 stu- dents in all the New-England Colleges in 1627, of whom 130 belonged to Maine, 131 to New-Hampshire, 146 from Vermont, 431 from Massachusetts, and 196 from Connecticut. [According to the Registers of the several States, there are in New-Eneland, exclusive of Rhode Island^ 1,633 ministers of the Gospel, viz. 862 Congrega- tionalist?, 605 Baptists, 167 Methodists, 72 EIpiscG- 26a UOUTE IS CONMECTICUT. palians, 15 Presbyterian<'> 85 Freewill Baptists, 24 Universalists, and 6 Cbrist-ians. Of these 228 are in Maine, 241 in New-Hampshire, 284 in Vermont, 497 in Massachusetts, and 383 in Connecticut. In propor^ lion to the population, the ministers of all denomina- tions are, in New-Hampshire, as 1 to 1,013 ; in Massa- chusetts, as 1 to 1,052 ; in Connecticut, as 1 to 718 ; in Vermont, as 1 to 830. Of the Congregational ministers, 101 are in Maine, 111 are in New-Hampshire, 114 in Vermont, 352 in Massachusetts, and 184 in Connec- ticut ; being to the whole population respectively, as I to 2,952 ; 1 to 2,199 ; 1 to 2,068 ; 1 to 1,486 ; and 1 to 1,495. It should be nQtJced, however, that the Registers are not perfectly accurate, and that we are pbliged to compare the population in 1820 with the number of ministers in 1827. There are thought to be about 10,000 schoolmasters in New-England. The militia of Connecticut, officers and privates, amount to about 28,000 men.] A General Hospital Society for the state of Connec- ticut was founded in 1828 ; and the building is to be erected in New-Haven. The New Burying Ground is situated opposite the Medical Institution, and occupies a large extent of land, partly planted with poplars, and containing a great number of beautiful ornaments, of different de- signs. It is considered the most beautiful cemetery in this country. The Old Burying Ground was in the middle of the green, in the rear of the Centre Church, and there are to be seen two ancient stone monuments, of a small size, which are supposed to mark the graves of two of the regicide judges, Whalley and Dixwell, although there is much doubt on the subject. (See Stilefv's Judges.) 1/ THE FARMINGTON CANAL. ('>: !J>> New-Haven and Farminoton Canai. •'-'A. This work was commenced about three years ago^ and is designed to afford a navigable boat channel, to the Massacnusetts line in Simsbuiy, where it is met by the Hampshire and Hampden Canalf which is to strike Connecticut River at Northampton. By an act passed in 1828 by the legislature of Massachusetts, this work may be continued along the course of the river, and the associated companies extend their views to the construction of a Canal to Bamet in Ver- mont. The Company for the Improvement of Con- necticut River are, at the same time, pursuing a system, which will be hereafter more particularly adverted to. The New-Haven and Farmington canal, commencing near the head of the wharf in this city, is crossed by the traveller in going up from the steamboat, near the market. The basin is large and commodious ; and the canal, passing through a part of the city, and bending round along the outskirts, on the north side, intersects several streets, by which it is crossed on handsome bridges. With a gradual ascent, the canal passes somewhat circuitously up the valley which opens towards Mount Carmel, between East and West Rocks ; and one of the staee roads to Hartford, which passes through Cheshire and Farmington, affords many views of it in different places. When the whole line shall become navieable, it will be an attraction to many travellers, and in a future edition, the objects along it may be particularized. The rates of toll established in 1828 were — 10 cents a mile on every packet boat, and 3 cents on every passenger ; 2 cents a mile on freight boats of less than 20 tons, and 3 cents on lareer ones ; 1 or 1 i cent pel mile, on most heavy articles per ton, in boats, and 3 cents in rafts. . The first part of the canal passes through an easy Y 1 im 264 B0T7TE ITI C0M1SECTICVT. and natural channel, where is little variation in the surface; and introdr?es us to the beautiful and fertile meadows at Farminffton. The upper part, however, and particularly the Hampshire ana Hampden Canal, required much lockage ; but the irregularity of the country will present an interestinjf variety of scenery. Jocelyn has published an elegant'and' valuable map of the canal and adjacent country, to the Canada line. There are pleasant rides in various directions from New- Haven, the roads being numerous, and the face of the country favourable. The two mountains command extensive views, and though the access is rather fatiffuing, the excursion is recommended to those who are fond of such enterprises. The Judges* Cctve 13 on the summit of West Rock^ about a mile north of the bluff: and the way to it leads near Beaver Pondj and Pine Rock (on the south side of which is a small cave), then between Pine and West Rocks. You here turn off the road to the left, by a path across a brook : and a guide may usually be obtained at a small house just beyond, who can show a horse path to the summit: The cave is formed by the crevices between seven hree rocks, apparently thrown together by some con- vulsion. It is small, and entirely above ground, with a rude rock, like a column, on each band. That on thd right contains this inscription, "Opposition to tyrants is obedience to God," to remind the visiter that the place once afforded shelter to Goffe and Whalley, two of the judges of kinff Charles the First, who escaped to the colonies and secreted themselves for some time in this solitaiy place. They were supplied with food by a family which resided near the foot of the mountain, and a little boy was despatched for them every day, who left a basket of provisions on a rock, without knowing what cause ht was subseryiqg. The place commanas and ary nily ROAl) TO 3IlDI)L£T0Wni. ^65 an extensive view upon the country below, with a laige tract of Long Iswnd. and the Soundl, ^V The Manufattory of Muskets is 2 miles not^ of New-Haven, on the road to Hartford, by Mender, a\nd at the foot of East Rock. It was established b}r'Mr. Whitney, the well-known inventor of th^ Cotton (Sllrt. Th^ machinery is carried by the watbr of a sthall riv^, and thenbus^^ of th6 overseers arid ^drkirtcfn make a' pretty appeatanc^ on the stibfe. Mbsket^are made^ H^re in all theil* p^ttk, niatijr bf them for th6 arsenals of the United States'. It is dest^ed tbthake the airms so much alike^ tb^t'the pattsmay be appHed indifK^nrtly tb all th^t proceed from the same manfu- factory, ft is not' foona possible, however^ to accbtta- plish this object to the full extent desired. Road to B^iddletowa". Nbrthford 10 miles. Durham . . v 8 Middletbwn 6 (Foradeseviption of this beautiful town, see beyond.) Beyond New-Haven in Lon^ Island Sound, lies a cluster of ishnds called the Thimbles, famous in the traditions of the nei^bburin^ Connecticut coast, as the ancient resort of Capt. Kidd, a notable pirate, whose treasures of solid gold, it is still believed by some, are concealed somewhere hereabouts. Withirt this labyrinth of islands and headlands is a jittle secluded ba;^ or inlet, capable of containing only one vessel at a timej which bears the name of ludd's Har- bour. There is also his island, his chair, ahd his * punch bowl.' There are several houses alon^ the shore, within a few miles of this place, which are re- sorted to during the warm season by a considerable number of visiters from the interior, for the sake of bathing in the salt water, and eatii^ lobsters, black fish, and oysters. In SeptewftiBr ancTOetober, ducks ^^i^nmmmmitm..*^ ■•^■^•^^■P^f^lP^ 25t) UOtri: l.N COAKKCTICLT. in^y be found in great quantities near the shore, ami black fish are caught in considerable numbers ; but the best fishing is further east, at New-London, New- port, &c. [As it is necessary, in a work like this, we have undertaken to pursue some definite course, and to mention places and objects in the order in which they will probably occur to most travellers, we shall here leave Long island Sound to proceed up Connecticut River, and only refer the reader to the Index for an Account of the coast beyond, and the following subjects and places : New-London, the Thames, Norwich, the Mohicans, the Pequods, Saccacus's Fort, Mystic Fort, the Narragansett shore, Newport, Providence, SAYBROOK. At this place was the first settlenient made by Euro- peans on Connecticut River. It was done at the earnest solicitation of many of the ri&htful proprietors of the country on its banks, who had been despoiled of their Possessions by their formidable enemies, the Pequods. 'he River Indians, as our old histories usually deno- minate the former, twice made application to the English at Plymouth and at Boston, to obtain settlers upon their native soil, offering to give them land enough, and to pay 200 beaver skins annually for the benefit of their society. But the undertaking was considered too hazardous, and it was not until the year 1635, when the Dutch at New-York. showed a dfetermination to seize upon the country, which they claimed as their own, that a small detachment of men was sent from Boston by water to prepare for opening a trade with the Indians, and to build a fort at the mouth of the river. Their haste was soon justified by events : for immediately after their landing, a Dutch vessel entered, and proceeding up to Hartford, landed a body of men, who soon establisned er- -elves in a fort they called ami but ew- iiave id to they here tticut or an bjects ■wicb, Cystic ience, D. .V. Tiiro.fn Sejv:r: 4 ,u- <«« /.>■■ l... * .* .-1-. V, SAVUUUOK. '2ix7 Good Hope, on a spot Ihey obtained from Pequod usurpers. The settlement of Saybrook was begun under a grant made to Lord Say and Seal, Lord Brooke and others, by Geoi^e Fenwick, £sa. who fled to this country with his family. The old fort stood near the present fort hilL upon an eminence which has since Deen destrojred oy the waves ; and the ground imme- diately behind it was afterward occupied by tne fields and habitations of the colonists. It was expected from the first, that the situation would render the place a ereat city ; and ailer the fear of the Indians had suosided, tne whole peninsula, which bears the name of Saybrook Point, was laid out with the greatest . regularity into fields of an equal size, except such parts as were reserved for the erection of public buildings. Yale College was placed here for a time, and a ereat number of emigrants were once collected in England, and prepared for a voyage to this place. Some persons of high rank and importance were among them, and it is a #ell-authenticated fact, th^t Oliver Cromwell had detetmin^d t6 endbafk in the enterprise, ahd Was biice on the veiy efte of c(ultting England fc* evtir, y^hkti som6 urtforeseeM octui'rence prevented hi^. The Wtknt of a harbour, and the obstacles piielserited tty a (te^ navigation bf a large sand bs^r ii the moatn of thfe river, hate effectually prevented the expecta- tions of thift' iettfe^ of Saybrook ffom being realized ; and no remains of their works can now be discovered, except in th6 rectangular forms of the fields, and the cellars of i6tn€ of tneh* dwellings, just beyond the burying ground, the foundation stones of which have since been employed in building the neighbouring fences. One of^ the largest excavations is said to have been the cellar of the old college building. The soU diers v^ere frequeiltly attacked Ivithin a short distahte of the fort by the Peanods, but they aftei^ward fan A palisade acro!=(s the isthmus which leads fVoiri the main- Janri ----■ ■■ ■■■ - '" ■•- : - - ^- '^h^ ROUTK IS (.'OK.NECTICIT. 'J / CONNECTICUT HIVEK. The shores present a continued succession of hilly and picturesque country, with few interruptions of level land, from a little above Saybrook as far as Mid- dletown. The roughness and rocky nature of the soil prevent the cultivation of many mountainous tracts : yet there are farms enough to give a considerable degree of softness to the scenery. The variety of rocky and wooded banks, mingling with little patches of cultivated ground, and the habitations scattered along the river, is very agreeable, and often affords scenes highly picturesque and delightful. Essex, T miles from Saybrook. This piace was formerly caller < Pettipaug. It is a small village, situated on tne ascent ana summit of a handsome elevation, and contains a church and one or two other public buildings, on a conspicuous position. Just above it is an island of some extent, which divides the river and gives it an unusual breadth. During the Jate war with Great Britain, this place was taken by the enemy, v; ho came up the river in launcbeSf and taking the inhabitants by surprise, occupied the town ibr a few hoars. Sonie distance above this place the channel lies so jiear the eastern shore, that the steamboat passes .alrpost under the trees by which it is shaded. Joshua's Rock is on the same side of the river, a .little below Brockway's Ferry. It is said to have de- rived its name from the son of Uncas, Sachem of the JVLohicans (see JSlorwich), who, according to a tradition .current in the neighbourhood, being once closely pur- sued by enemies, threw himself from the top oi the rock, and perished in the river. IfADUAM. 2dD \V ARNJ2U8 Feuby, 1 3 mUes from Sayhrooh, East IIaddam. The landing place here is rocky, mountainous, and wild, and a eood specimen of a large portion of the town to whicn it belongs. Gen. Champion has a fine house built among the rocks above, which adds much to the appearance of the place. This region is famous for a kmd of earthquakes and subterranean sounds, which were formerly common for a short distance round. They gave occasion to many superstitious reports, but nave ceased within a few years. They were called Moodus Noises, after the Indian name of the place. Large beryls are found in the neighbour- hood, and many other minerals interesting to the scien- tific traveller. IIaddam is built on an eminence 50 or 60 feet high, which ap- pears like the remains of an old bank of the river, descending a little meadow which is covered with orchards, grazing ground, &:c- while a range of com- manding hills rise beyond. IIlGUENUM * is one of the little landing places so numerous along the river's course, 2 miles above Haddam. Middle Haddam, 2 miles. This is a pleasant country village, stretching along a hill ccvered with orchards and house lots, and backed by higher and wilder eminences. It is about 6 miles below Middletown. 2»J0 liOLTE IN C0]N2iiEt:Tlc;i.T Looking down the river from a little above thir; place, a lar^e and beautiful hill is seen, which affords the richest scene of cultivation on this part of the river, being entirely covered with fields and orchards. A larffe wooded eminence is a little higher up, and several high hills, almost worthy of the nan^e of mountainsr are visible in the north. The Narrows. Here the river turns abruptly to the west, and flows between two lofty hills, which it has divided at some lonff past period, before which, there is every reason to Believe, the country for a great distance above was covered by a lake. A mile or two eastward of this place, there is the appearance of an old channel, where the water probably ran, at a great height above its present level. The Lead Mine is a short distance from the southern bank of the river, near two or three old houses. Fort Hill if the last elevated part of the southern bank. It was formerly a little fortress belonging to Souheag, an Indian chief, whose dominion extended over the present towns of Middletown, Chatham, and Wethersfield. The large buildings on the hill in Mid- dletown were erected for Capt. Partridge's Academy. MIDDLETOWN is beautifully situated on the western bank of tiie river, where the water is spread out to a considerable breadth, and disappears so suddenly at the Narrows, that from many pomts of vievt, it has the appearance of a small lake, with high, sloping, and cultivated shores. This *is a most agreeable residence for strangers, particularly for families, during the pleasant seasons of the year, and will no doubt be soon supplied with more nume- rous and extensive accommoaations. A large hotel ba& recently been built, which iskep'. VilUDLKTOUA, 261 its ter' by Mr. Newton. Mr. Campus and Mr. EoardmatCi (in the same street) are large inns. jT^c Quarries of Freestone^ on the opposite shore, have furnished a valuable building material for some years, and have been worked to a considerable extent. Manufactories, Cotton, Woollen, and Rifle Manu- factories, and three machine shops, are near the bridge at the south end of the street. Col. North's Pistol Manufactory is situated two or three miles west of the town. T -lere are also Starr's Rifle Factory, Johnson's Sword Factor)', the Pameacha Woollen,* Spalding's Tape, and Pratt's Comb factories. There are various pleasant rides in this neighbour- hood, particularly to two picturesque Water Falls in Middlefield. In the direction of one of them is Laurel Grove, where the road is shaded for near half a mile with those shrubs, which, in the soason, are covered with flowers. The environs of this place afford other agreeable rides. The Lead Mine is about two miles below the town* on the south shore of the river, accessible only on foot or in a boat, where are several old shafts, whiich were sunk in the Rv?volutionary war, in a slate rock. The ore is a sulphuret of lead, in veins of quartz, partly crystallized, and affording a few specimens of fluate of lime, and other minerals. The Cobalt Mine is about five mi! as east, in Chatham^ at the foot of Rattlesnake Hill. It is not worth work ing, at the usual price of the metal. Specimens of peach-bloom of cobalt may be picked up among the rubbish. Just southerly from ft is a very pretty water fall, about thirty feet high. A number of German families live in the neighbour* hood ; the descendants of miners, who came from Europe some years ago to work the mine. * The Pamcf!< rfta Manufactory employti from 150 to 200 pcnrona, con- suttiRH 100,000 Ihs. of lint- wool, and turns out dO,000 yds. of ftni^heil broridclnth a venr. Z 'i()'2 i> JtOUTJ: Vi* COANKCTIOLT KIVJiK. Uri'EK Houses, a village ot" Middletown, 2 miles above. From a hill 1 mile from this is a very pleasant view towards the south, presenting the river, with the mea- dow and hills, as well as Middletown and the fine high grounds ir its rear. The small divisions of the soil and the density of the population, as well as the fertility of the ground, and the frequency of sch(K)l- houses and churches, here show one of those interest- ing and beautiful scenes characteristic o\ Co. -^iticut River, and which the traveller will find i poaied all along its course far into New-Hampshire and Ver- mont. Rocky Hill, 5 mi les, a parish of VVethcrsfield. About half a mile north of the tavern, you reach the brow of a hill, which commands a rich prospect of manj miles of the Connecticut Valley. Wethersfield lies m front, and the variegated hills and plains around belong to numerous townships on both sides of the river, en- closed by ranges ot distant highland, which direct the course of its channel. On the left, about 15 miles off, is the ridge of Ta cott mount tin; and the two bli!.; ueaks in the north are Mounts Tom and Holyoke, n^ m Northampton, at the distance of about fifty miles. Wethersfield, 3 miles from Hartford, 'iiiis place ha.- a fine light soil, on an extensive level, probably once the bottom of a lake since drained by the deepening of the river's channel. It is peculiarly favourable to the culture of onions, which are exported in great quantities to various parts of the country, the West Indies, &c. Wethersfield was one of the three earliest «^/ ttle- ments made by wnite men in Connecticut : or i.her it may strictly claim the precedence of all, for altl.»M gh houses were first built here, as well as at Hartford and Windsor, ir< 1635, three or four men came to this place the year previous, and spent the v*' inter. Depredation^ rONNECTICUT STATE FHISON. H'ui were committed on their settlements for the first few years; but as they were done by the Pequods, the destruction of that nation at Mystic Fort, by Capt. Mason, in 1636, put an end to them entirely, and this part of the river was never afterward made the theatre of war. The Connecticut State Prison. The situation of this institution is healthy, retired, and convenient to the water and the ^reat road. It was completed in 1817 ; and is worthy of the attention of those who feel an interest in the cond'tion and pros- pects of the unhappy inmates of such edifices. What have heretofore been regarded as the necessary evils of prisons, will here be found g^reatly reduced ; and, in many respects, even with regard to the prisoners, converted into benefits. The modern improved principles of prison discipline have nowhere produced so sudden and so beneficial a change as in the state of Connecticut. An old cop- per mine at Granby was for many years the State rrison, and was conducted on the old and vicious system. Here the Auburn system has been established, with some few deviations. The whole is under the direction of Mr. Pilsbury, a man of firmness, judgment, and humanity. The men are brought out to their work at signals given by the bell. They lodge in solitary cells, and are not per- mitted to converse together while at work. They take their food in their cells, and when going to and from work or prayers, are oblig<;d to march with the '"ck step. Thev are to be chiefly employed in brick- making. No blows are allowed to oe given by the officers except in self-defence. The smitns' fires are supplied with Lehigh (Penn- sylvania) coal for fuel ; and part of the heat is con- ducted away in pipes to warm the apartments. The cells are furnished with comfortable beds and bed 'iU KuuTE ui» co>^i:c"ncvT lavun. clothes, and a Bible for each. They are ranged iti rows, and the keeper? can look into them through grated doors ; at the same time the prsoners are not able to converse with each other. The effects of evil communication, so much and so baneiully cherished in our old prisons, are thus effectually prevented. Nei- ther officers nor convicts are allowed to use ardent spirits. The inmates are kept clean and comfortably clad; and while shut up from society, whose laws ) have infringed, they are not debased and rendered li. i vicious and dangerous by bad example or evil counsel ; but are usefully and healthfully employed, instructed, invited to return to virtue and respectability, and consigned for a large portion of the time to soli- tude and undisturbed reflection. HARTFORD. huS' — The City Hotel, (by J. Morgan,) and the United States Hotel, (by H. Morgan,) are two of the best houses in the country. This is the semi-capital of th' state, and a place of considerable business, as well as one of the great points at which the principal roads concentrate. No fewer than ten weekly papers are published in this city. The Charter Oak. — In the lower part of the town, in the street which runs east from the south church, is the ancient and respectable seat of the VVyllys family, who were among the early settlers of Hartford, and have made a conspicuous figure in the history of the state, as well as ot the town, by supplying the Secre- tary's office for a long course of time. This place is now owned by Mr. Bulkley, and has undergone con- siderable changes. The principal object of curiosity here is, however, the fine old oak, which stands on the street in front. It is said to have been a forest tree before the land was cleared, yet it appears as firm and vigorous as ever. In a hole in its trutjk was hidden ^iLiy^ ilAKTFOItli. .2t;.j ce of reat No this con- iosity n the tree I and the charter of the .colony, when Sir Edmund Andross sent to demand it in 1687 ; and there it remained for some y^irs. This interesting document is still preserved in the office of the Secretary of the state. The Asylum for ike Education of the Deaf and Dumb is about a mile west of the town, on Tower Hill. It was the earliest institution of the kind in America, and is under the direction of a board of di- rectors, who publish annual reports of its condition. Mr. Gallaudet, a gentleman who was sent to Europe to qualify himself for the purpose, is principal ; and Mr. Le Clerc, a favourite pupil of the Abbe Sicard of Paris, occupies the next station. He is a man of su- perior talents, although deaf and dumb. The principal building is large, ornamented with pilasters, and surrounded by a garden and pleasant grounds. The house of the superintendant is near by, and the whole enjoys a fine situation, with a command- ing prospect and a healthy neighbourhood. The stranger will receive uncommon gratification, from a visit to this benevolent institution on the days appointed for the admission of visiters. The deaf and dumb are generally remarkable for close observation, readiness of apprehension, an eager thirst for know- ledge, and a very retentive recollection ; and, as all their instruction, being communicated through the sight, can be obtained only by the strictest attention, and the abstraction of the mind from every other subject, the appearance of a class absorbed m their lesson is calculated to produce feelings of an unusual and highly interesting character. Every deaf and dumb person soon forms a language of natural signs, by which he is able to communicate the most necessary ideas on first arriving at the Asylum. He is then taught the alphabet in use here, which is made by the fingers of one hand ; after which the names of visible objects are easily spelled, and the order of their letters committed to memory. Absent ^^i^ij^iMi wr.ii iil,^iliI|IJiW I ^Ot) KOIJTE CJt» CO^iiNECnCLT 11IVJ3U. objects and abstract ideas are communicated by many ingenious devices, which it is impossible here to de- scribe ; and ar^>itrary si^ns are aaopted to represent such as may require tliem. Definitions are very ex- tensively resorted to; and they are always of the • most strictly loje:ical character. Indeed, the whole system is one of the most complete and beautiful of the kind ever formed on philosophical principles. The number of scholars is about 130. Some of them are supported by a fund belonging: to the insti- tution, and others by the states of Massachusetts, New-Hampshire, &c. Similar institutions exist in the city and state of New-York, Philadelphia, &c. and one has latel3r been provided for in Kentucky. The Hopkins* s Grammar School, which nas been recently much enlarged, is in the lower part of the town. The Retreat for the Insane is a little south of the city, and makes a handsome appearance, be ins: a stone building 150 feet long and 50 wide, the wings having three stories, and the main building four, ft is capa- hh of containing about 50 patients, and is warmed by flues. The grounds connected with the institution include about 17 acres* Miss Beecher^s School jusily enjoys a very high repu- tation. Washington College is situated west of the main street, In the south part of the town. It is an episco- pal institution, and has at present two stone build- ings erected: one for the students, 150 feet long, four stories high, with accommodations for 96 pupils ; and a chapel, which has also rooms for recitation, the library, &c. The college bills are j^52 50 jper annum in all ; and the students board in private families at the rate of Jl 50 per week. Fourteen acres of land belong to the institution, part of which are devoted to the garden with its green-house. A large episcopal school has recently opened for young ladies near this institution. TUAVELLI^G IN N£W-£x\6LANi>. 2^1 [Montevideot the seat of Daniel Wadsworth, Esq. enjoys a charming situation on a mountain nine miles westward. Tariffville is a little manufacturing place several miles north of that spot, near a romantic scene on Farminffton river, where it parses through the moun- tain. Here is a carpet manufactory.] Remarks to the Tkaveller at Hartfobd. From Hartford there are stage coaches running in va- rious directions ; norths one on each side of Connecticut River; north-east^ to Boston; east, to Providence; aoiUhy to New-Haven and New-York (hesides the daily steamboats to the latter place); west, to Litchfield and Poughkeepsie and north-west to Albany. The road to Boston leads through Stafford Springs, and Worcester, but is otherwise very uninteresting and quite hilly. There are two routes to Boston, which separate at Tolland, and meet again 15,miles from that capital. On the new road, (which is shorter,) a coach goes through every day — travelling from 3 A. M. till 6 P.M. Stafford Springs, (26 miles from Hartford) is in a romantic region. Tolland 17 m. Springs 9, Stur- bridge 16, &c. The traveller in New-England is advised to take the route up Connecticut river, which is the most fertile, wealthy, and beautiful tract of the country ; and to re- turn by the way of Boston and Providence. This is the route we propose to pursue ; but the traveller can vary from it as he pleases. He will find such informa- tion as this little volume is able to afford him, by refer- ring to the Index. The fertility of the meadows in the Connecticut Val- ley is almost proverbial ; Smd after what the stranger has seen of its banks at Middletown and Hartford, he will learn with gratification that neither the soil nor the beauty of the cultivation degenerates for several hun- 268 R«UT£ UP CONNECTICUT RIVUK. dred miles northward. The whole country is thickly populated; neat and beautiful villages are met wit n at intervals of a few miles ; and the general intel- ligence derived from universal education gives an ele- vated aspect to society. The accommodations for travellers are generally very comfortable, and some- times uncommonly good and elegant ; the scenery is ever new and varying ; many places have traits ot in- terest in their history ; and the communication is easy, from many points ot the route, with the principal places on the east and west. Besides all this, tne roads are pe- culiarly fine, for they are generally run along the river's bank, which is almost without exception level and plea- sant, and formed of a soil well fitted to the purpose. The western side of the river is generally to be pre- ferred; but as there are good roads on both sides, and some villages and otherobjects worthy of eoual notice on the eastern shore, and good ferries or briages are to be met with every few miles, it will be agreeable oc- casionally to cross and recross. Those who travel along the course of the Connecticut twice, would do well to go up on one side and return on the other. This is the most direct route to the White Hills or White Mountains of New-Hampshire. The improvement of the navigation of Connecticut river above Hartford has been seriously contemplated, on a combined system, and the legislatures of Vermont and Massachusetts have consented to a uniform plan. Several of the principal falls have been canallecl and locked for boats ft)r a number of years ; and they might be made to serve on the line. The first part of the na- vigation (that is, from Hartford to Springfield and North- ampton) chiefly engages attention at jjresent ; and it is not improbable that the traveller will have an op- portunity to gratify himself with a pleasant passage in a steamboat even as far as flie latter place in 1830. A canal has been made at Enfield Falls, 6 miles in length, in the bed of the river, with three locks, of a sufficient breadth to admit steam towboat?. AMLKICAN HISTORICAL SOCIETV:. 2G\i The Steamboat Blanchardy built at Springfield for this navigation, measures 30 tons, has two cabins and an engine of about 20 horse power, [t draws scarcely a foot of water, but moves with such power that in 1828 it went up the falls at South Hadley at a rapid rate. The scenery on this route will be found very pleasing. Those who go to Boston will pass through Worcester. Worcester is one of the finest villages in New -Eng- land, llie Worcester CoalMinct which is at a distance from the road, is likely to be worked to a considerable extent. The vein is considered as connected with that on Rhode Island. It is anthracite ; and if its quality should justify the opinions which have been expressed, it cannot fail to prove highly valuable, both for home use and for transportation by the canal . There is a deep cut at the foot of the hill, leading to a horizontal shaft which has been carried in some distance. The country around it is rich and variegated, and the dwellings have an air of elegance which does great credit to the taste as well as the wealth of its inhabitants. Brick is extensively used in building. Penknives are manu- factured here of fine quality. The courthouse, bank, &LC. stand on the principal street ; and east of it the county house and the building of the AmERKJAN HiSTORirAL SOCIETY. This is an institution formed by Mr. Isaiah Thomas, many years a printer in this place, for the truly im- portant purpose of preserving every thing relating to the history, traditions, &c. of the country. He has made it a donation of his valuable library, between 7 and 8000 volumes, with many files of newspapers ; and built at his own expense the handsome edifice in which it is deposited. ]Vlany interesting curiosities have also been collected here from all parts of the country, but the institution has not funds to support a keeper, and the cabinet has not (unlens, perhaps, recently) been opened to the public. Th, building cost about $8000, '210 KOUTE UP CONNECTICUT KIVKK For the Blackstone Canal which connects this place with Providence, see Index. Sutton^ Worcester Co. There is a remarkable chasm in the rocks in this place, at a distance from the road, which appears to have been produced by sonie tre- mendous convulsion in the earth. It appears like 'a wild and broken ravine, half a mile long, enclosed on each side by irregular walls of granite, rising to a height of about 115 feet perpendicular, and so near as to threaten the visiter who explores the place be- low. The opening is only from 75 to 100 feet wide ; and the opposite masses of rock correspond as if for- cibly torn asunder, as they doubtless have been. On the brow of one of the precipices is a mass of granite estimated to weigh 5000 tons. The depth is so great, and the shelter from the sun so entire in many places, that ice may be found at almost any season of the year. Watchusett Hills, 16 miles W. N. VV. of Worcester, and 62 VV. by N. of Boston, are estimated at nearly 3000 feet above the sea, and ascended by an easy path. The spectator looks down on a surrounding 4cene of wooded mountains, below which are ponos and farms, and a view over cultivated and inhabited regions. [From Worcester to Leicester, 5 miles ; East Brook- field, 7 ; Brooktield, 3 ; Ware Factory Village, 5 ; Belchertown, 10 ; Northampton, 15.] Route up Connecticut River. Leaving Hartford, The State Arsenal* is seen on the right-hand, a mile from the city ; and many pleasant views are enjoyed. * The Quarter-Master General reported] that there were in the arse- nal, in 1828, 4857 niusHets purchased by the state, together with 3927 muskets and 150 rifles, with the proper accoutrements, received from the United States. According to the last regular returns, there were in the hands of the militia, but not owned by the state, upwards of 13,000 muskets and rifles flt for service, which, with those in the arsenal, are nearly equal to the whole number of the infantry. ^ . _, Ml'KINUFlKLU. 271 [East Hartford, opposite Hartford, has a sandy soil, hut the street, as well as that of Cast Windsor, next north of it, is shaded with rows of fine elms. The road crosses Podunk Brook by a small bridge, about four miles from Martford, on the north bank of which, on the left-hand, was once the fort of the powerful tribe of Podunk Indians, who had their settlements on this winding stream, and some of their broken implements are occasionally found in the soil. The nation was so powerful, that Uncas, Sachem of the Mehicans, was uiice daunted by the show of their force, although he had marched to attack them with his aniiv, and after- ward chose to intimidate them by the following stra- tagem : he sent one of his Indians to burn a Pequod wigwam, in the night, near the fort, who then flea, as lie was directed, leaving some Mohawk arms on the ground. This made the Pequods believe that that nation had leagued with Uncas, according to an inti- mation he had before given, and they immediately sued for peace. Bissel's tavern, 8 miles from Hartford. In going to the ferry, the road passes the Bissel farm, one of the finest in the country.] WiNDSOll. It has been mentioned before that this place was settled as early as 1C35. A few months after the building of the fort, ^jirobably a blockhouse,) the Dutch garrison at Hartford made a secret march against it, expecting to take it by surprise ; but on arrivmg at tl)H place they found reason to give up their enter- prise, and returned without firing a gun. The country was formerly very populous in Indians, the six square miles of which the town was formed, and which ex- tended on both sides of the river, containing ten sepa- rate sachemdoms, or petty Indian tribes. There is a school established in this town on the Fellenberg plan, in which agriculture is taught both JiOtlE UP CONNl'XTICLr ]aV£l(. theoretically and practically» a good farm adjoinint? it being open to the examination and experiments of the students. The seat of the late Chief Justice Oliver Ellsworth stands on the east side of the street, above the town* nine miles above Hartford. It is distinguished by co- lumns, and surrounded by trees. He was born in a house opposite. He was in Europe as minister for the United States to France. After turning a corner a little beyond this place, the new road runs north by a tavern, while the old ones across a sand plain, keeps straight on. The former i« recommended, as it passes for several miles along the bank of Conned icut River. Warehouse Point, in Enfield, is seen on the east side. Here vessels are built, and the place car '. Since the establishment was formed, in l'J'36, 296,^ S9 muikets have been manufactured. The njanufacioi ies on Mill river, a little south of the armory, are various and well worthy of observation, at least, m passing. A road that runs alon^ the bank, passes a number of flour milis, &.c. belonging to indi- viduals, besides the Upper, Middle, and Lower Water Shops, connected with the armory. There are three dams of hewn :3tone, and the buildings in plan and construction, are well calculated for service and dura- bility. The water shops contain in all 18 water wheels, 10 trip hammers, 28 forges, 9 coal houses, and have connected with them several houses and stores. The town is ornamented with many fine elms and other trees ; and there :ire two very handsome churches, a High School, &c. It was originally con- sidered within the limits ol Connecticut Colony, but at length incorporated with Massachusetts, A tribe of Indians lived for some years on Fort Hill ; but being won over to King Philip's party, in 1675, they assumed a hostile air, tired uF»on some of the inhabit- ants who were going to their fort, and burnt a part of the town. In 1786, during the rebellion of Shays, he attacked the armory, at the head of a strci^g party of undisci- plined men. Gen. Shepard, who had command at the place, attempted to dissuade them from their attempt, and finally drove them off by firing twice. The first shot, over their heads, dispersed the raw troops, and the second drove off the reiiiijinder, who, being about 200 revolutionary soldiers, did not desist until they had lost a few of their men. This was the first check the insurrection received, which was put down without much subsequent trouble. Springfield Factory Village is a new and very ex SOUTH HADLEY FALLS. 273 tensive manufacturing place. It is on the Chicopec River, and a stage coach passes through it every other day, on the road to Belcnertown. The capital em- ployed here in 1828 was ^500,000. Tl»e buildings brick, 2 stories, and about 9000 yards of cotton were made daily in all. Wilbrahnm, 7or8 miles west from Springfield, con- tains a Westeyan Academy. The pupils are instructed in agriculture on a farm, and in the mechanic arts in a shop, belonging to the institution. There are teachers in various branches of literature, science, and the arts. West Sprin^eld has a fine street, shaded with large elms, and containing some handsome houses. It is 26 miles from Hartford, and about 17 miles from North- ampton. There is a fine view from the road on the brow of a hill a liftle north of the town, near a church; which overlooks the river and an extent of country on •each side, with Mounts Tom and Hoi joke in front. South Hadley Falls. The village and locks are on the east side of the river. The whole fall of the river at South Hadley is 52 feet, but at the lower falls only ii2. There is a canal 2i miles long on the bank of the river, cut through a slate rock tor a considerable distance, and in some places very deep. The dam is 8 feet high. There are five locks near the tavern, and one above. The toll here is 90 cents. There is a ferry lu^re, which is safe, but the water runs verysvvifMy. For several miles before reaching Mount Tom, the road runs along the bank of the river, showing its banks, in many places, roughened with rocks. Its channel is in one p!:un- Ibe 800 greater )nsider- ition oi lally in Til — ifn'g !"lil«ll!IWJP»i!UHWpPlii| I . '"'I'- "W ' ".U,PHP^?IIWW|p" <^.' ipw'P! 'SWi ■ * <.•#■' *t 1^-= i|' Jj. ■ft- ■•^"■^^ /^. ^•f >i !f^ -« '• '''^f^k. #* %*V'^, \ \Z..- * t MOUNT HOIYOEC. 279 There is a short road through the meadows, directly to Lyman's ferry, at the fool of the mountain, which is furnished with a good horse-boat. But it may be founi pleasantpr to cross the bridece at the upper end of the town, pass through Hadley Meadows, and down on the eastern bank. The path up (he mountain turns off near a sai ill old house, and another opposite the tavern near the U'Ttj, Aft-T following the latter to its termination, you dis?nount, secure your horses to the trees, and walk up a rude stone staircase on the right* Refreshments will be found at the house vvhich occu- pies the summit ; and which opens on both sides, in such a manner as to command an uninter uptj^l view of the rich and varied landscape below. Those who wish to enjoy the luxury of seeing day break and the sun rise over such a scene, may find a shelter here for the night. There was a remarkable flood in the river, (21 feet,) in the autumn of 1828, which destroyed build- ings, crops, &c. to an unprecedented extent. South-eastf the view is less interesting, and may therefore be first examined. The country is undu- lating, and the soil generally poor ; yet several vil- laifes are discovered at a distance, particularly South Hadley, which lies immediately below. Southwardly is seen Connecticut river, retiring under the shade of Mount Tom, whitened below by the South Hadley Falls ; beyond which is the hill at Springfield. The river makes several turns, and on the horizon are two very distant peaks, which are supposed to be £ast and West Rocks, at New-Haven, about 70 miles distant. North-east is seen Monadnoc Mountain ki New- Hampshire ; and the view towards the east is inter- rupted by the neighbouring peaks ol' Mount Holyoke. JVorthi you look up the charming valley of the Con- necticut ; bordered by distant ranges of hills and moun- tains, varied by a few isolated peaks, covered with the richest coat of vegetation, and scattered with villages and innumerable farm houses. The river makes a beautiful serpentine course ; frum where it first ap- *^-«*-,« :^80 ROUTK UP CONNECTICUT KlVEll. pears at the foot of Sugar Loaf Mountain, and Mount Tobj,* until it reaches tlie village of Hadley, which lies in full view ; and then taking a bold sweep to the west, and flowing 4| miles, it returns to the end of the street, only a mile distant from where it first meets it. The whole peninsula is rich and iertile, and covered with cultivated fields of wheat, corn, gr ss, &c. vvilhoui being disfigured by fences, according to the custom prevalent hereabouts; and is the ric-Iiest sight upon the river, particularly when viewed in con- nexion with the scene immediately below, where the river flows on, almost immedinlely under our feet, and the we^lern shore presents the extensive Northamp- ton Mea'lows, a mile wide. Following the current with the eye, in the West-south'West^ it forms a still more remark w^(IHJ|i|Hipp(^Hi^"PW^».»ilHl,wiw^iWi»i ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVEK. Hadley, 3 miles. (See the preceding page.) Hatfield, One mile further, on the west side of the river. This town is much devoted to the winterinff of cattle raised on the neighbouring hilly country. The grass IS very fine, and the barns are large; which, with the appearance of the houses, give the place an air of substantia] agricultural wealth. The cattle are bought, stabled, and fatted. Amherst is situated on elevated ground, five miles from Hadley ; and off the river towards the north-east. Amherst College. — Although of recent institution, this ranks among the most respectable in New-England. The situation occupied by the buildings is delightful, commanding a rich, extensive, and varieJ view, partly over the meadows of Connecticut river, with moun- tains particularly mentioned a tew pages back, seen in different directions. The retired situation is highly favourable to study and good order, as its elevation and pure air are conducive to health. It contained 152 students in 1826 ; the number who graduated in 1828, was 40; and the students, in 1829, were 211. The president. Dr. Humphi es is also professor of mental and moral Philosopny and Divinity. There are six other professors, and a teacher of French and Spanish, a teacher of mathematics, and a tutor of Latin and Greek. A gymnastic apparatus has lately been added. The Amherst Academy is a large private establish- ment for the education of boys. It is about three i>J::eufieli). 1>83 miles distanl; the building is elegant, the instructers are of a high character, and the svi^tem is formed on the im^iroved principle. The modfern Greek pronun- ciation has been adopted here for the ancient language, under the instruction of Mr. Perdicari, a Grecian by birth; and this judicious example it is hoped may be followed in other institutions. The Sugar Loaf is an isolated hill of a conical form, rising in front as we proceed. A fine view is enjoyed from the summit, where has recently been erected a house for visiters. Deertield lies north of it about three miles ; and the way by which we approach it, lies nearly along the old road which led thither through the wilderness, in 1675, when it was deserted b}^ the settlers, and Capt. Lothrop was despatched, with a body of 80 soldiers and wagoners, to bring off the grain. At the foot of this mountain is the small villnge of Bloody Brook, (improperl)^ called Muddy Bro()k,) and near the spot where a bridge crosses the stream, Capt. Lothrop was ambushed by about 800 Indians. The place was then a marshy piece of ground ; and some traces of the road, which was formed of logs, are still to be seen, running through the fields without crossing at the bridge. The convoy halted at this place ; and the soldiers were generally engaged in gathering grapes from the vines which ran on the trees, having leit their muskets on the ground, when the Indians tired upon them. Capt. Lothrop gave orders that the men should disperse, and fire From behind the trees; but they were all cut off except 8 or 10. This massacre was one of the most calami- tous which ever occurred in New-England, taken into view with the small number of inhabitants at the time : as the company consisted of young men from the principal families in the eastern towns. There is a stone now lying near the fence, west of the brook, which was brought there some years since for a monu- ment, but not raised. That part of the meadow we yass through in ap- ^Fl" 1^84 KUtTK \jV CO-^SbXTWli IIL\ LAL proaching Decrfiold was tlie scene of several skir- rnishes with the Indians at different times, as the place was a frontier for many years, althoupfh it was twice burned and deserted. Deerfield. In 1704, which was the period of its last destruction, a laige f)odv ot Indians, led on by a few Frenchmen from Canacfa, came upon the town before daylight. It was winter, and the snow crust was strong enough to bear them ; they liad secreted themselves on a hill north-west from DeerfieJd, and sent In a scout. The houses were all entered but one, the inhabitants made captives, and all, except a few, taken off to Canada. One of the houses is standing at this day, a little noitli of the church ; and the hole niay still be seen in the door, which the Indians hacked with their tomahawks, and then fired through, as well as the marks of several bullets in the eastern room, one of which went through the neck of a svoman and killed her. A young man and his bride leaped from a window of the chambei above ; and though the latter was unable to walk, in consequence of spraining her ancle, the former fled, al her ui^ent request, and, meeting with some troops on his way, brought them up in tinie to drive off the hi- dians, but not to retake any of the captives. A house next this was valiantly defended by seven men ; and the dwelling of Mr. Williams, the minister, was taken, and he ancf his family carried to Canada. Most ot the people were ransomed ; but a daughter of Mr. W. became attached to the savage life, married a chief, and left children. Mr. Williams, missionary to the Indians at Green Bay, was one of her descendants. Some marks of the old picket may be traced in the rear of the house, which is supposed to present the same appearance as in old time, excepting that the kitchen, cVc have since been built, and the front and rear have been covcrer^ TliUiNDK 8 I'ALLJJ. ujyj skii- placfc twice iictiop« chiiien ylight. enough n a hill . 'l^he [s made Canada. ,le north [1 in the ahavvks, f several through ung man chamhei walk, in T fled, at roops on f the hv There is an academy in this town, but it is not in a very flourishing condition. ' Last from tnis place, are several spurs projecting from the hill, on one of which was formerly a fort, for the protection of the Deerfleld Indians against the Mohawks. Greenfield^ 3 miles. Here the stace coach passes on a road from Boston to Albany. '1 ne countiy west is highly picturesque. Just south oi" the town, Deer- fleld river appears to have at some period formed a lake of some extent, with an outlet towards the east, where its channel may be seen, with the place of an old cascade, and the rocks bored out by the rushing of the water. I'he channel now lies through a deep cut between, two hills. A High School, for young ladies, was established here in 1828. Tumer^s Falls are on Connecticut river, two or three miles east from Greenfield. It is necessary to leave the road to see them ; but they are of consider- able height and beauty, and history has rendered the place memorable, from an important battle fought there towards the close of Philip*s war. The way by which we approach is nearly over the same ground, where Capt. Turner marchecf, with his body of men, in the year 1676, when he went to attack a lai^e body of Indians, assembled at an Indian fort, a quarter of a mile above the falls ; and by which he also returned, after a successful battle, pursued by his surviving enemies. Philip, having been driven from the seacoast and the neighbourhood of the English settlements, by the active operations of Capt. Church, Capt. Mosely, Capt. Wheeler, &c., retired with some of his followers to the Northfield Indians, who held a position on a sandy hill, on the north bank of the river. Here he was attacked in the night by the troops under Capt. Tur- ner. The English left their horses on a hill, which descends to a brook emptying into the Connecticut below the fall:: and having mounted the opposite Bb n^^W^!^- ,TVT7"' "TTJ " 'i8b UOVT£ VP OONNliOTICUT RlVEK. bank, proct^eded near where the present road lead^, and marched up tlie sandy hill. The place has a swamp on two sides, and tne river on the fourth. It is, indeed, overtopped by neighbouring hills ; but cannon, of course, were out of the question in such a warfare. The Indians had held a least that night, as some of their captives afterward reported, ana were generally asleep, so that the attack of the white men gave them a panic, and they fled to their boats, which tnev launched in such haste, that many forgot their paadles, and were cairied over the falls. The rest, however, rallied before their enemies were out oi their reach, and being joined by some from the island below the falls, pursued and harassed them about ten miles, to DeeiHeld. Bones are occasionally dug up near the spot, and a (ew years ago the remains of an old musket, a few silver coins, &. were discovered amon^ the rocks. This was the last and most severe blow Philip re- ceived, befort^ he returned to his native country in Rhode Island, where he soon after terminated his df'ngerous life, and the war, which brought so many calamities upon New-England. Tke Canal. — A dam of great height is built at the falls, to supply a canal, which extends two or three miles for boats and rafts. Some mills are also esta- blished on the river's bank. The fall is divided by two rude rocks, between which the water rushes in separate cataracts; and the scenery below is wild, nnd not a little imposing. This is part of the New- Haven Greenstone range, and there aie two veins of copper in the mountain : specimens of coal have been found. There is, however, no inn nearer than Green- field.] Bemardstoiif 8 miles from Greenfield. Femon. — Within the limits of this township, which is the first in Vermont, was once Fort Drummer, one of a chain of forts, built for the protection of the country against the; (^inadian Indians. The place for UALrOLK. '^87 some. ycar« v.ms known on the river, by the name of Nnrr»})(»r One, being the first of four townships. i'assin^ through a pretty village, with several mills, after a few miles we approach Brattleborougli, south of which, east of the road, is a quarry, which furnishes a large quantity of slate ; where may be seen the mode of quarrying, splitting, shaping, and packing it for transportation. Braitlehorough is a very pleasant village, situated on an elevated pi in above the river, whicn, since the draining of the old lake in this place, has made two or three successive arches north of the town, as it has gradually lowered its channel to the present level. At the bridge, over a small stream, are several manu- factories ; and in the village is a large and comfortable stage house, whence coaches go to Boston, as well as west, north, and south. Westminster.— Th\^ is on a fine, extensive level ; and on the hiffh land, on the opposite side of the river, is Walpoie. — Connecticut river being the dividing line between the two adjacent states, VValpole is in Nevy- Hampshire. The situation is very commanding, and the summit of the hill, above the village, affords a view of unusual extent and beauty. There is a spacious and well-kept inn at Walpoie ; and stage coaches go hence to Boston, &c. It will be founii the best place to stop at between Brattleborough ;ind Charlestown. Three miles north is the farm of Col. Bellows, which contains 700 acres. The house of the propri- etor enjoys a fine situation on a ridge rising from the meadow, near where sfood the fort erected by Cc3. Bellows, when, about the middle of the last century, the place was occupied and a settlement begun under the name of Township No. 3. The changes which have taken place in the channel of the river, in the course of ages, are very manifest in passing along this part of its course, particularly by the western bank ; in one place, which is now perhaps ?oo feet above the present level of the water, the ^ 288 KOUTE VV CONNECTtCUT IIIVIIJ?. current appears once to have flowed, and to havo formed the cataract) which has now retired a mile oi mor(» to the north. Bellows^s Falls, — The height of this fall is inconside- rable, but it is, on the whole, a striking oljject ; sur- rounded by rocky banks, and having an abrupt moun- tain on the eastern si. Canal, Surveys were made in 182* for a Canal to run from Norwich parallel to Connecticut River, up the Quinebaugh River to Massachusetts. The supply of water is considered abundant at all seasons, and the JEWETT'S CITY. 6{)i tract oi country through which it is to pass extremely- favourable to the execution of such a design, as well as by its fertility and population, encouraging to its suc- cess. It is to pass through the folio wing towns: Spring- field, Palmer, Western, Brookfield, Sturbridge, South- bridge, and Dudley, to the Qjuinebaugh. In 1828 an association was formed to petition the Legislature fov assistance in this project. RoAB FROM Norwich to Providence. The road follows the course of the Quinebaugh Ri- ver for some distance, through a hilly tract of country, and near a fine cataract in that stream. At the distance of U miles from Norwich, it passes SacheirCs Field. This is an elevated plain, on which a battle was fought in the year 1643, between about 900 Narraganset^s, (who inhabited Rhode Island,) and 500 or 600 Molie;)gan&. The Sachem of the former, Miantonimu intending to chastise Uncas tor his adhe- rence to the English, secretly advanced into his country with an army ; but Uncas was aware of bis approach, and n>et him on this plain \\here both parties halted. Uncas resorted to a stratagem. He stepped forward alone, and challenged Miantonimo to decide the quar- rel singfle-handed. This, as he expected, was refused ; and while his enemies were not prepared, he gave a signal by falling down, when his men instantly set up n yell, discharged their arrows, and rushed lorward. The Narragansetts fled, and many of them were killed. Uncas captured Miantonimo himself, but the haughty Indian would not ask for quarter nor speak a word. He was taken to Hartford, and after a trial, was deli- vered to Uncas for execution. He was brought back lo this place, and while marching across the field was tomahawked on a spot a little east of the road, where a heap of stones for many years marked the place of his burial. Mvett\ City is a small manufactuiins: place 7 milev ,i06 BOUTE FJIOM NFiW-rOBK TO BOSTOJN. from Norwich. There are three cotton manufactories here, one with 2000 spindles. Plaintield is a pleasiint Tillage ; the inn is lar^ and good, and overlooks a fertile plain, through which is the route of the proposed canal to Brookfield, Mass. On crossing the line to Rhode Island, the country he- comes uninteresting. The farmers are poor and negli- gent ; there are no villages deserving oi the name, and nothing worthy of particular notice, except one or two small manufactories. Providence. See page 309. NEWPORT. This place possesses one of the best harbours in the United States. The entrance is guarded by the Dum- plings Fort and Fort Adams ; and the scenery about it is agreeable. Fort Adams on Brenton's Point is to become one of the most important fortresses in the great plan of coast defences, which have been for some years in the pro- gress of construction. This fortress was to cost, on an estimate, $170,000, and is to embrace, when completed, an extent of 130 acres. A range of guns is to line the shore towards the west as far down as the first rising ground. The outer wall will be 40 feet in height, and extend neai-ly three-quarters of a mile, enclosing about 19 acres. The outiine of the works is now easily seen. They will be able to mount 150 cannon, in connexion with the redoubt, which is to *ae erected on a neigh- bouring hill. Thus the fort would be prepared for an attack on all sides, should it be made. The founda- tions and trenches have been cut into rock or hard clay. There is also a range of subterranean galleries cut in rock. Other works, in connexion with Fort Adams, are prft^ KKWPORT. 30^ posed oil Uie opposite shore, the Dumpling Islands, he, which would render the port secure as tne princi- J)al rendezvous for our navy north of the Chesapeake, or which it is designed by the government. If not entirely secure from a land attack, the neighbouring country would soon afford it abundant relief. This fort is thought not inferior, either in plan or importance, to any, unless Fort Calhoun. Fort Wolcott is on Goat Island, opposite the town. Newport extends about a mile along the shore, but presents the aspect of decay, as the commerce has been removed to Providence. The situation has many advantages; and this with the cheapness of rent has begun to render it the temporary abode of many strangers during the warm season. The Bellevue Ho- tel enjoys a fine situation. T^he trindmill, an old stone tower on the top of the hill, is a conspicuous object, although long disused. There are four churches visible ; and the Library^ a small but neat and correct specimen of architecture in the upper part of the town, is worthy of attention. The nouses of the town are thickly clustered about the water, but make rather a gloomy appearance on account of the want of paint and repair ; the place having experienced a gradual declension produced by the success of Providence, 30 miles further up. The Poor House is on Coaster's Harbour Island, about a mile above the town, seen in passing in the steamboat. The island belongs to the town, and con- tains 80 acres. The building is three stories high, of stone, and contains 50 or 60 poor. Those who are able, work on the land, and others at different manufactures ; but most of them are women, and some superannuated. The keeper receives fifty cents a week for the board of each, which is paid by the town, to which the pro- 'iucts of the labour are credited. Since this esta- blishment has been formed, the expenses of the poor to the town have been reduced one-half. Tlie beach behind the town, like the whole circuit 308 ROUTE FR03I :NEAV-Y0KK TO BOSTOA. of the city on the land side, was defended by a line of troops, batteries, &c. during the possession of it by the English in the revolutionary war; and the opposite high grounds were occupied by the American army, whose head-quarters were on faumony hill, a mile and a half, or thereabouts, from the town ; an elevation which affords an extensive view on every side. Gen. Prescott was taken here during the war, by a bold party of men under Col. Barton, who landed secretly from a boat in the night, went to the British head-quarter«, and conveyed their captive away, before the land or naval forces, then in the harbour, could prevent them. The place was blockaded by the British fleet. During the possession of the place by the enemy, the trees, as well as about 900 houses, were cut down for fuel ; and although the island is admirably calculated for the growth ol fruit trees, and was, belbre that pe- riod, quite covered with the finest orchards, it is now so divested of trees of every description, as to appear remarkably naked and monotonous for an American scene. Trie fertility of the ground, and the excellence of the crops, however, as well as the neatness and precision with which the fields are cultivated, and re- gularly divided by fine stone walls, present a picture of agricultural beauty rarely parajleled in the United States. The island, 14 miles long, and not 3 wide, contained in 1827 more than 30,000 sheep. Fort Green is a little battery erected on the water's edffe, about a mile above the town. Mount Hope, famous as the ancient royal residence of the Wampanoag Indians, and particularly as the abode of King Philip, and the scene of his death, is seen from a few miles beyond Newport, towards the north-west. It rises in Warren, on the shore of an arm of the bay, and will be particularly described here- after. The view of it is soon afterward cut off by the intervention of Prudence Island^ which is about five miles in length, and presents the same fertile soil and gently swelling «:urface as tbut of Rhode li^land. T\v l'RoviDE\(;l:. JOiJ inhabitants are few, as are those of Patience and Hope ; islands of a much smaller si:^e. Despair is a duster of rocks on the left, near the island oi Hope, the north end of which is 20 miles from Pro- vidence. lihode Island Coal Mine. An extensive mine of an thracite, or incombustible coal, wa^ opened a few years since near the north end of the island, in Portsmouth, about 2 miles iVom iiristoj Terry. It was not extc»n- sively used, however, and the work was speedily abandoned. The property has passed into other hands within two or three years ; and since the anthracites of Pennsylvania have become so Valuable, about 40 hands have at some periods been employed in digging it, and about 100 tons of all sorts of coal have been got out in a week- The vein which is wrought is about 4200 (eet one way, 115 another, and 4 feet in thickness. It lies on an inclined plane ; and three other veins are supposed to be oi equal extent. New-York being the great market lor ( oal, this mine is very conveniently situited ; lying within 800 yards of the river, where sloops come up to a wharf and load. The excavations are liable to be flooded in wet weather, by which the working has been a good deal impeded. It is necessary that fireplaces should be constructed on the plan of a furmce to burn this coal, as it requires a high degree of heat to ignite it. PROVIDENCE. This is the second city in New-England, both in population, vve'alth, and beauty. It contained, in 1825, about 16,000 inhabitants, find is beantilully as well as advantageously situated at the head of navigation, on the river of the same name. It contains several hand- some churches, a theatre, an arcade, (on Westminster- street,) and many tine houses. ...i't 310 KOUTE rUOSl M^U-VOKK XU BOSTON. Brown Univebsity, the greatest institution of learning in the state, is built on tne summit of a high hill, the ascent to which b not very easy, although it is laid out in streets, deco- rated with some of the finest houses in this part of the country, dispersed among spacious gardens, and mingling the delights of the country with the splen- dour ofa city. There are two brick buildings be- longing to this institution, which command fine pros- pects. In 1828 the number of graduates was 27. The town was settled by Roger Williams, who left the old colonies in consequence of a disagreement in religious doctrines. He built his house on the shore, near the present Episcopal church. Many of the society of Quakers or Friends afterward joined him, whose descendants form a large share of the popula- tion of the slate. The Academy is a large institution, near the College, established by the Friends. On Eddy's Point, it was lately said, was tl only cotton manufactory in the Unitea States worked by steam. This state, having severely suffered from the want of public schools, has recently taken laudable mea- sures to supply the deficiency ; and the towns are hereafter to be supplied. An Infant School has been established in Providence. (For PLYMOUTH„se€ Index*) [Taunton, 32 miles from Boston, next above Dightonr A great quantity of cotton is manufactured here, and there are extensive works in iron. The power is sup- plied by 5 dams on the west branch of Taunton river. About 1500 tons of iron are manufactured here every year, 1200 tons into nails, 300 into plates, hoops, and machinery. From 1 500 to 2000 pieces of calico print* MAATFACTUUIUS. 311 ily ?en tOIlr land ]up- 'er. [ery and are furnished by the cotton manufacturers, &c. weekly. Annually 800,000 yards of No. 30 cotton cloth are made ; and 50,000 lbs. of yarn, all out of 800 bales of cotton. About 700 persons are employed with 7000 spindles and 200 looms. The highest manufactories up the river are built of wood ; the next of stone : the third of brick. There are two brck dams , and the printing establishment is among the last. There is also a manufactory of Britannia ware,&c. Sampson's Hotel, at Marlborough Ponds, is a plea- sant resort, half-way to New-Bed lord J Manufactories in J^tew- England. There are said to be about 400 buildings in this sfrlion of the United States, devoted to the spinning, weaving, ai>d print- ing of cotton; 135 for Massachusetts ; 110 tor Rhode Island ; CO for Connecticut ; 60 for New-Hampshire ; 15 for Maine ; 10 for Vermont. They were sup- posed to contain on an average 700 spindles : which gives a total of 280,000. Th^ey worked perhaps 280 da^s in a year, and used 140 lbs. of raw cotton to each spindle : which ^^ ^uld give a total of 39,200,000 lbs. or 98,000 bales. > one-thif d of the manufactories the we^iving is done b^' power looms ; in one-third by hand ; and the others send their yam to the midduj and southern states, where it is woven by hand under contractors, or in families. Business has declined. Not more than 275 cotton manufactoi les are supposed to be in operation in the remaining pans of the United States. Wool and Woollen in (he United States, — It was con- jectured in 1827 that about 100 millions of dollars were invested ^ sheep and sheep lands in this country ; the number ol heep at 15 millions, and 100 millions em- ployed jV) Manufacturing wool. By the last census there wer* > in Dutchess county, N. York, more than 450,000 sheep, which would give a surplus for other markets of 600,000 lbs. of wool annually. From SOOjOOO to a million of sheep were estimated to have hf^en wintered in the state of Maine in !82«, '^7 : ?'^ i IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) '^ 1.0 I.I I^ IM 12.5 ■so ■^~ ■■■ ^ IM 12.2 ui u4 us -i 2.0 ^ 1.25 IIU III 1.6 == 11= 111^ ■^ 6" ► V .^> ;> Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. MSBO (716) 872-4503 ^«^ ^ €v >^ •;ist ■i^^' :'^;l-:,-;.i''xS:, .•''■'4s:::' •^■■: ■.^.■-*'' :'-M'l*Jft^. <}I2 KOUTE FHOM NEW-YORK TO UOSTOK. .tniJiions of pounds were supposed to be worked up that year in the United States, giving fjll or partial employment to 100,000 persons. In boring the earth in this town, in 1828, from the end of the earth, the auger passed through the arti- ficial soil — then through a stratum of mud-- then through bog meadow, containing goo(i peat — tlien through sand pebbles and quartz ^ vel. At this point water impregnated with copperas and arsenic broke forth; next struck a vineyard and dre « up vines, erapes, grape seeds, leaves, acorns, hazlenuts, pine burs and seeds of unkiiK)wn fruits, together with pure water. This was 36 feet below the bed of the river ! Rail Route from, Providence to Boston,^^A year or two since, a survey of the country between these two cities was made under the authority of the Legislature .of Massachusetts, for the purpose of ascertaining the practicability of a railroaa. The middle route %vas proposed, beginning on Front-street or near the Common in Boston, proceeds on the west side of Boston Neck, through Roxbury, west part of Dor- chester, east part of Dedham, middle of Walpole and Foxborough, a corner of Mansfield and Attteoorough City to Pawtucket; crosses the river near Central Falls, proceeds through the east part of Providence to India Point, thence may be extended to Water-street — or it may come to India bridge, on the Massachusetts ^iderand there terminate, or cross the river near that bridge to Fox Point. The whole distance from Boston to Fox Point, by Central Falls, is 43 miles and 48 chains : cost of single road 334,000 dollars — double road 649,513 dollars. Greatest rate of inclination would be 30 feet in a mile. The amount of ascent and descent on the route to Fox Point, by Central Falls, is 879 feet. The amount of merchandise annually transported between the two cities was estimated at 1700 tons by hn^t and 3400 by water, besides a lai^e amount for •J m:'' VAYfUVCKET:, 313 sborter distances. In 18S8, $83,000 were received by the agents of one of the lines of stage coaches between these two cities. BiACKSVOffi Camai.. This canal, which was completed in 1838, and extends to Worcester, Mass. runs along the course of the Blackstone River for several miles. That stream is seen on leavingProvidence, and lies west of the road to Boston. The road now in use is new, and shorter than the old, but avoids several villages which that passes through, and presents very few objects worthy of notice. ' The Blackstone Canal is 4& miles long, Id feet wtd«^ at «he bottom, and 34 feet at the surface. There are 48 locks, all built of stone, which overcome a rise aitd fall of 450 feet. The size of the locks is 83 feet in length, and 10 in breddtb ; and the cost of the whole Work was about $560,000. The water is chiefly derived from the Blackstone river ; but tbere are laree ponds at different parts of the route which can be drawn upon at any time. Soon after tbe opening of the navigation, a quantity of cherry plank and joist was received here from a vast distance west. It grew in Michigan or Ohio, at the head of Lake £rie ; from whence it was shipped down the lake to Buffalo, thence by the £rie Canal to Albany, from that place to Providence by sloop navigation, and from Pro- vidence to this place by the Blackstone canal, a distance, In the whole, of at least nim hundred niHei, four hun- dred miles of which is an ariificicd navigation* rted for Pawtucket ^ . , c is one of the faigest manufacturing places in this part of the country, and has increasea surprisingly within a few years. The banks of tbe river are varied and somewhat romantic : while the faU« which is under mmmmmmm '314 KOUTE FUOM WEW-YORK TO BOSTON. the bridge, furnishes a most valuable water power* Cotton is principally manufactured here, though 'here is machinery devoted to other purposes. The influx of strangers, many of tbein poor an^ ignorant foreigners, and most of them removed from the wholesome restraints of a better society, has pn>duced unfavourable effects on habits and morals; which is the v«orst fea< ture In the manufacturing system. The first spinning by machinery in this country was done on a very small machine in 1785, in Providence. The road between Providence and Pawtucket, 4 miles, is one of the best in the United States ; as the ^law requires that all the income above 10 per cent. 'shall be devoted to repairs ; and the travellir^ is veiy great. It is hard ana smooth, and is to be mmished with a convenient side- walk the whole distance. Pawtucket is the first village near the canal and con- tains 8 or 10 cotton factories. At Central Falls, 3 miles above, 4 do. Valley Falls, a short distftncc above, 4 do. Next come Reltey'sand the Albion fac- tories ; then Mansfield, where are Iwo factories, one 45 feet by 150, and 5 stoi ies high, of pressed brick. A mine of anthracite coal has been found near the canal. At Woonsocket Falls the descent of the river is 33 feet in a short distance, an. Mendon. Here is Famem's woollen factory, and a cotton factory, without mentioning several other esta- blishments off the river. The Bfackstone Factory, or '* VLACKSTONI: CANAIii H.:i 315 Mammotht can make about 5000 yards of sheeting tlaily. A little above are two other factories. Uxbridge, Here are factories of kerseymere, sat- tinet» &c. Rofferson's factory is one of the first in the state. It cost about {140,000. There is a remarkable aspect of neatness and beauty pervading the esta- blishment and the villa^. There are several beautiful little ponds formed by art, the margins of which, as well as of the riv^r, have a very pretty aspect. Northbridge. Here are two factories. Holbrook woollen factory makes about 300 yards of sattinet a day, and Dennis' about 100. A quarry of e^ranite is opened about 200 yards from the canal ; and that ma- terial abounds in this reeion. Grafton. Here is a fall of 51 feet. 400 yards of sattinet are made in one establishment hen'. Here are to be seen the New-England Manufacturing Cora- ' pany*s buildings, where the^ make duck and twine from both flax and hemp. This is on the eastern road to Providence, and 6 miles from Worcester. The Great Reservoir is just above. I' is formed by damming the Qfuinsigamond pon-^ and four other ponds, by a single dam. This sets the water back so far as to cover more than 2000 acres ; and keeps an abundant supply always at disposal. At WilkinsonviUe is a large cotton manufactory ; and at Milburyy a little way beyond, 300 jards of woollen are made daily. Within a short . distance are also manufactories of cotton, scythes, and guns. Worcester. Here are large paper mills, five machine shops, &<:. &c. {See Index.) Aitlehorough. The inn stands on the spot once oc- cupied by a block hou*e, built on the frontier of the Indian country before Philip's war. Opposite is an old burying ground, which contains the body of the first man killed here by the savages. The largest Button Manufactory in the (J. States is in this town. Walpole. Here the sta^e coaches usually stop to dine or breakfast. "ppp «PWIWW1PPIP"PW 316 SOUTE FROM NEW-YOBK TO BOSTOiN. DecUiam, 10 miles Jrom Boston^ is a large and beau- tiful village, with reg;u1ar and wel) built streets, and some quite elegant bouses. Fisher Ames lived in the second hoiiae on the left-hand, as you enter the villaee. [Blue Hills, This is a pleasant retreat} about 7 miles from the city of Boston^ and much resorted to in the summer season ; as a targe house of entertainment has been lecently erected at the foot of the mountain, whence the place derives its name ; and the summit, which is considered 800 feet above the level of the oceao^ commands a fine and extensive view. A snoall house has also been built on the top, where the view is the finest, for the temporary repose and supply of visiters. On the northern side, the view embraces, in a clear day, the Green Mountains in Vermont, and the White Mountains in New-Hampshire, with a wide extent of country between : Nahant, and in general, all Boston Bay, is seen eastwardly, and near at hand.] ; The hills are seen on the right from the road, a few miles south of Boston. ^uincy Railway. Thb is the first work of the kind which was constructed in the United States. It is 3 miles long, and leads from the quarries of granite to navigable water, for the transportation of stone to Boston. The railway and the quarries will be found worthy of a visit. The descent from the commence- ment to the wharf is 86 feet ; breadth 5 feet from the inside of one rail to the inside of the opposite one ; a horse path between the two rails 4 feet 4 inches wide. The plank Tails are of pine 10 inches in height, with caps of red oak 2 inches thick, by 3 inches width. The sleepers, or tranverse beams are of granite, 7 feet long, on which the rails > rest ; these sleepers are at distances of 8 feet apart. The wrought ma rails are laid on the red oak caps, and are 2 inches wide, and 3-8ths of an in. thick : 27 tons 3 cwt. 14 lbs. of iron, including screws, aie used to each miley making short of 82 tons of iron for the 3 m. This railway was opened for use on the 16th September, 1826, and has been UOXBUSV. 317 since constantly used for the transportation of g:ranite — generally 60 tons per day. One horse has drawn 22 tons, including the weight of the two wagons, from the quarry down to the wharf; but the Ordinary load of a horse is from 12 to 15 tons. One horse usually draws 2 wagons. By way of experiment, one horse drew 13 tons up an elevation at the rate of 66 feet 6 inches in the mile, a distance of 200 feet. A load of 24 tons io 3 wagons passed on the railway, which did not appear to shake the rails at all. The wheels of the wagons are 6 feet in diameter ; the axle tree 3 inches in diameter. Weight of wagons, 3500 pounds each. Four beautiful columns were taken from the granite quarries, in 1828, of solid masses, for the new church in Quincy. They are 25 feet long, 4 feet 2 inches in diameter at the base, 3^ at top, and supposed to weigh 25 tons each. Roxhury, On the Neck which leads to Boston, we pass the remains of the intrenchments thrown up by General Washington, in 1776, to shut the BritisD troops up in the town ; and a little beyond them is the place where Gen. Gage previously drew his line across, to command the communication between it and the country. The country on both sides retains marks of the American forts, redoubts, &c. and Dorchester Heights on the east are crowned with the works thrown up by Washington, which commanded Boston and the anchorage; and forced the enemy to evacuate the place. Embarking here in their fleet, they went around to Long Island, and soon after entered New- York. [See page 322.] [Several routes have been proposed for a canal, to be ciit from Boston Harbour to Narragansett Bay. Such a work would save the exposed navigation round Cape Cod.] , j i\)\\wi^jf^]m^m^iffmmfm"i' ' '" aiH iUTV OF MOSTOJV. ■■"li BOSTON. Hotels. Tremont House.* The Exchange. Marl- borough Hotel, &c. Boston contains an uncommon proportion of fine buildings, particularly private residences : for it not only possesses much wealth, but also much taste and public spirit. The finest buildings are of whitish franite, brought from the shores of the Merrimack Liver, being found in abundance at different places, from Chelmsford to Concord, N. H. It is transported to Boston by the Middlesex canal, and is not onl^ beautiful and lasting, but obtained at a moderate pnce. It is found very durable when exposed only to the ele- ments : but fire soon disintegrates and ruias it. The Qyiincy granite is also excellent. TheAtken(Bum» Under the patronage of wealthy and feiierous friends of the arts and sciences, for whom (oston has, long been conspicuous, this valuable col- lection of books, coins, and medals has by rapid de- grees risen to a grade of eminence among the Ubraries of the country. In addition to the numerous and vo- luminous works before in the possession of the insti- tution, subscriptions have been made within a few years to procure complete copies of the transactions of the Royal Societies and Academies of Sciences in London, Edinburgh, Dublin, Paris, Petersbuig, Berlin, Turin, Gottingen, Stockholm, Copenhagen, Madrid, and Lisbon. The catalogue of 1827 contains 23,000 volumes. Any person, by paying $10 a year, may enjoy the liberty of readinj^ books in the rooms of this institution ; but only proprietors and life subscribers have the privilege of takmg them away. The library however is free to strangers introduced[ by proprietors, and may then be visited by them alone at any time. • Tremont Tlou^e is the most splendid hotel in the United States. It makes a fine uppearnnce, contaiits 18U rooms, and is conducted on aii excellent plan. A part of the establishment is appropriated to private partiesand families, and has a distinct access, through a different street. %vifh no ootnmunicatjon witli the main hortvof the hniWinir. CITV OF BOSTON. 6Uf arl- fine not and litish nack aces, edto utiful It 13 i ele- The 1?. Most of the valuable periodical magazines of Europe are regularly received; as well as those of the United States, and newspapers from all parts of the country. The Exhibition and Lecture rooms are in a building in the rear. The Academy of Arts and Sciences have a room on the first floor, and there is a piclui-e gallery on the second. ^ ^uXh^^ Tlie J^ew Market is constructed of granite, and is of the following dimensions : a centre building 74^ feet by 55, with wings, extending in all 536 ieet, with a fine fa9ade at each end, with granite columns of single pieces, 21 feet high, and weighing each 14 or 15 tons ; a row of granite buildings on each side, 4 stories high, for stores, more than 500 feet. In State*street are the Banks,* Insurance Offices, and 'Change. The Common is a fine piece of ground, on the south* western side of the city, and one of its greatest orna- ments. The surface is ap;reeably varied by a few gentle undulations, and it is decorated with rows of handsome dwelling houses on two sides, while on the third it is bounded b)r the bay of Charles River, and affords an extensive view in tnat direction, embracing a tract of cultivated hilly country. A range of buildings near the south end of the Common, bears the name of Colonnade Kow, in consequence of their being all alike furnished with white columns. The State House is the principal object seen in ai>- proaching the city, and stands on a considerable emi- nence at the north side of the Common. It has a double range of columns in front of the main building, and a laige dome on the top, to which a somewhat intricate staircase leads, affording the most extensive view of Boston and the surrounding country which is to be found. lates. li ^d on an private kit stu-e'' * Tn Boston there arc 17 hnnks, e.xclnaive of the U. S. Branch. These banks, or ratiier 14 of them, have in circulation bills bearing interest to the amount of f 3,493,142 42. The amount of all debts due Hie whole of tfioni. ox« lusivo of baliuiu's dim f'©in (lie mukf. 's «18..'V04.5r.!) 3.^. 3i2U ClTV OV BOSTON . Chantrey^s Stafne of Washington, in this be^uliVul specimen of the ^nfus and skin of the s:reatest British sctilptor, B(»ston possesses a treasure. It was finished and sent to Ame^a in 1^27, and n new apartment was constructed t'oi'^ts reception, adjoining the Doric Hail in the State H^e. The total expense of the statue and building amounted to about $16,000. The sculptr)r received oP^'^his $10,000. The entrance from the Hall into the'edifice is ,''■ * At rharJesfnwn is thr Slnt". P^-i^oVswVXvh In? Intfllyibewi gipntU iinprovd, on the hi'stplans. ,, i ♦<) JULKKEUS UlLt. JSii bouring country, and then continued those acts of op" pression upon the people, which exasperated the Colonies so much avainst him. Contributions were sent in for their relief from all parts of the colonies. On the 17th of June, 1775, while the forces which bad repaired to this threatened scene had their Lead- Quarters at Cambridge, a body of men, principally formed of detachments trom Massachusetts and New- Hampshire regiuients, having fortined themselves on Breed*s Hill, (an eminence of about 70 fei't, behind Charlestown,) manfully disputed the ground with the British troops sent over from Boston to occupy it. The loss vvas great on both sides, particularly on that of the assailants, who were driven back in three at- tacks. The boldness ot these raw troops, and the success with which they so long withstood the chaiges of the regulars, were of the utmost use, by encourag- ing the country^ and by convincing the English that they were fighting a powerful foe. The ttatlle usually goes by the name of Bunker's Hill ; but should, in strict propriety, be called after Breed's Hill, as the latter is a distinct eminence, although, perhaps, a spur from the former. The British landed near a point, just beyond where the navy yard is now seen ; and the American defences consisted of a small earth redoubt on the top of Breed's Hill, and a double rail fence, stuffed with new hay, extending from it to the water. Some remains of these works are still to be traced. A British sloop of war lay, during the action, in Mystic River, beyond the navy yard, and kept up a cross fire upon the low neck, which connects the peninsula of Charlestown with the mainland. The 17th of June, 1825, the fiftieth anniversary of this battle, was commemorated with very appropriate ceremonies ; and the corner stone of a monument was laid in an angle of the old redoubt, on Breed's Hill. u'irh Masonic ceremonies. A large number of Revo- lutionarv officers and soldiers assembled ; and thr 3<:)8 Cllk or HUMi'()I«. inoniimniit in to (m «rfictoU at the oxpeiibc oi priviilc contribution!. Bunkir Hill MmutMnt. The liime (n tnaNN nl 14,000 tonR w«l)(ht,) in lai(i 13 frat dm\u And Iiki nix couineR of ntoiM to the Nurfacu— 'the Amt of which in 50 feet on vaoh lide. Above thin a pyramidal ohn- liikf 30 feet aquare, ii to riie tapering, tl3 feet 4 inches on the ground, and to be 1 A at the top. It will be componed of 80 couraen of atone, each 9 feet 8 inchet thick. A winding atone ataircaNe in the inaide will lead to the aiimmit, whence the view will be tine and highly interesting. The whole ia to be built of granite from ^juincy. The largeat block in it la aaid to be of the following dimonaums : 11 feet long, 6 bitMid, S feet 8 inches high, with a weight often tona. After the battle of Hunker'N Hill, the Continental troopa wen* drawn in a mom complete line around the town of Boiton ; and numerous intrenchments may .stil! be traced out on moat of the hi Ha in the vicinity ; but »t was not till (Sen. Washington nucceeded in oc- cupying Dorchester Heights, which command the harbour and town from the south-east, that the Bri- tish embarked in their ships, and evacuated the place. ' Dorche$tBr HeiglUs were occupied on the night of March 4, 1776. Eight hundred men formed the van ; then followed carriages^ and 1300 pioneers under Gen. Thomas, 300 casts of fascines ana gabions, and ^^ns in the rear. Two forts were formed by 10 at night, one towards the city, and the other towards Castle In, wro thu liridgirw which hmd Iroiii it to v«riouii pointN. 'I'hon) nrc no lf;»« thuri fivo IMiiicipal oneNt benideM iDvernl bninchtfi. TIid t;.'^- ixjniu iU which they have hiieii conntructiid and em kfipt in rrpuir ifi very throat, ond thny iuininh ^nni fi- olhtiflN tor itrangcra deiiruua of makin({ eicumiuiM to thf) Nurroundiiif country* ICtiueation* TIm fjyceumt a WUthtj inNtitutioiif with branches in many oi' tlie townn in tnia and other •tatei, ia calculated to difTuae uaeful iisarning among all claiiMN. Tbii atate took the lead in eatabliahlnff a HVNtem of general education, and e:|joy» Ita tienenta. There were* in 1027, 76(M) children iintruotud in tbfr public RchouU in Bonton, aa follows— Tlient are veveii u^ranimar ncliooN, in which wore about 000 pupilf. riiero wei'R '200 l)ovfl in the fjatin school, and 140 in tliti Hi{];h achool. Tho 67 primary schools containitd, in 1820. 3436 children between 4 and 7 yearn of age, taught by females, kc ice. In Motni: of these the monitorial system has been introduced . The public ex- pense incurred in instructing nearly 7600 children is )||64,600 annually. There have since been established .several Infant schools, under the direction of a so- ciety of ladies. A monument has been laid or eotfime^cH! over thn jt^ravcs of Dr. Frnnklin^s parents, in the Granary bury- ing ground. The model is for an obelisk, 25 feet high, formed of seven blocks of Qjjincy granite, each weighing about 6 tuns. An Asylum for the Blind is to be established in Boston. Villages, The vicinity of Boston presents a suc- cession of villages, probably not to be paralleled for beauty in the Unitedi States. They are Kenerall]^ the residence of a number of the most opulent citizen!> during the pleasant seasons, and many of the buildingu are nne and expensive. The grounds are also fre- quently laid out with great taste, and highly cuiti- 324 ciTir »F iiosTo:^'. \ vated ; so that no stranger, who has leisure, should tail to take a circuit through them, at least for a few miles."*^ The public coaches may be found convenient. There are several manufacturing establishments in this vicinity, among which Waltmm is conspicuous. [In some places on the coast salt is made from sea-water. f] Cambridge, 3 miles from Boston, is the seat of the oldest, and one of the principal colleges in the United States. The village is very pleasant, and contains the residences of the numerous professors. The college buildings are numerous, and the older ones venerable in their appearance. 52 decrees of A.M. were con- ferred in 1828. This institution is the most richly en- dowed in New-England, and has educated many of her most distinguished men. Hon. Josiah Quincy is the President. NAHANT, 14 miles. This is a veiy pleasant and fashionable re- sort, during the warm months : being a fine situation, open to the sea, of easy access by land or water, and furnished with several houses for the accommodation of visiters, particularly the large hotel. A steamboat ♦ The U. S. Marine Hospital at Chelsea, opposite Boston, is a fine building, erected out of the Hospital collected from seamen in the mer chant service. It is 105 feet long, 50 wide, three stories hipb, and coat $30,000. Here temporary relief is afforded to American seamen wlio had paid Hospital money, (unless affected by cnnta^iious diseases,) and Ibreien seamen are admitted at the price of 75 cents a day. t The Salt Manufactories of Massa^usetts are worth about two mil- lions of dollars, and make about 000,0(90 bushels a vear, by solar eva- poration. Each bushel weighs 75 pounds. The duty in the United States on imported salt is 20 cents a bushel ; and yields a revenue ol $600,000. Manufactories, by natural and artificial heat, are established in the following states:— New- York, jRliode- Island, North Carolina and Alabama. In Barnstable county there are estimated to'.be fttleen millions squarf feet of lanii devoted to the makins; of salt by solar evaporation. lit New-England there are supposed to he 18 millions, which, in 1827. ^n.- A'Tced 38#,.334 bushels of salt. W^; NAHA]NT. ;i2o IS a line [lomer jid coat In who )8,) aiid iro mil- iar eva- lUniied bnue of Lblished Ina and ( pquarf in. Ik runs thither in the summer, and there is a hne road i/vhich passes round the bay through the shoemakiog town of Lynn, along Lynn beach, and tbea turns off to the promontory of Nabant, which is a point of rough rocks of considerable elevation. You may cross Charlestown bridge, and visit Bunker's Hill at iiet* ting out. . . . The passage in the steamboat affords a fine view of Boston bay, with the city ; Dorchester heights on the south, Bunker and Breed's Hill on the north-west, and many other interesting objects.* Amon^ the islands which form the defence of the harbour, is that which contains Castle Williams, and one or two other fortified ones ; Rainsford Island with the Marine Hos- pital, part of it quite elevated, but containing only a few acres. Salt is made at Deer Island, where you ps^ss through a narrow and crooked channel, and wind- mills are sometimes used to pump the water. The ground near the hotel at Nabant, has been laid out ana ornamented with as much taste as the expo- sure of the situation will permit. The cupola on the top commands a fine water scene ; and during a stnoi^ wind from the sea, the waves are high and maffnih- cent, breaking wildly against the rocks. Pea Island, south-westerly, and "Egg Island, east, are proniinent and rocky. There is a veiy ornamental little build- ing, in the Doric style, which contains billiard rooms. The Baths are at a little distance from the hotel, and quite commodious, furnishing one of the phiei' attrac- tions of the place. The Spouting Horn is a hollow in the rocks, on the shore, east of the village, where, at half-tide, the w;7^ves throw the spray ten or fifteen feet into the air. The Swailow^s Cave is a remarkable aperture in the rocks, not far from the landing place. It is 60 or 70 feet long, and in one place aibaui 20 feet high. The tide ri^es in it, and it is visited by swallows ; and ^ * At Dorchester if a Hbust of Industry. Ee2 !l4»!i|kUW,"l!|lf.!,'!"|i.m,**lU"|!»l ■ -"T^Vr 32G cnrv OF UOSTO.N. there are several other caverns of a similar character, produced in the cour^^e of ages, by the constant attri' tion of the water. Seats are conveniently disposed at different places, in the most commanding points, from which the truly striking olijects around are seen to e;reat advantage. The rude shores and the smooth beach can be best examined at low tide ; but those who are fond of sublime scenes, should omit no op- portunity to visit Ihem when the wind is high, parti- cularly ma moonlight night. Proposed Improvemenis for Internal Communica* tion, — Plans have been on foot for several years, for constructing canals and railways from Boston to the Hudson River near Albany. Proposed Railroad from Boston to Albany. — This Sroject was rejected, in 1830, by a large vote in the [arssachusetts Legislature. The followins; results are ffiven by the surveyors of the southern route, which they considered the most eligible. It passes through Worcester, Leicester, Spencer, Springfield, western part of Westfield, thence along the southern branches of Westfield river to Washii^gton, thence through Pitts- field and Richmond to the boundary of the state, near the north line of West Stockbridge. The distance by the line here described, is 94 miles and 64 chains from Boston to Connecticut river, 160 miles 44 chains to the border of the state, and by the shortest lines surveyed, 193 miles and 6 chains to Albany. Of this distance *M3 miles are level ; and in travel- ling towards Albany 94^ miles are descending, 4U miles have an ascent not exceeding 20 feet per mile, 26 miles have an ascent of different rates from 26 to 52 feet per mile, and the remaining 24 miles an ascent of 52 to 80 feet per mile. In travelling from Albany to Boston, 90^ miles are descending, 45^ ascending not more than 26 feet per mile, 21} ascending from '26 to 52 feet per mile, and 27| miles from 52 to 80 feet. Eight tons net weight are considered an average load for a single Irorse on the level parts, and parts ascend- HP ritOj KCT F. U it AILW A i S . 327 mg not over 26 feet per mile, travelling 19 or 20 miles per day ; 6 tons for the parts ascending from 26 to 52 feet, travelling 10 miles per day ascendmg, and return- ing the same distance ; and 4 tons for the parts as- cending 52 to 80 feet, travellmg at the rate last men- tioned." The cost of the road, 22 feet in width, is estimated at j( 14,940 70 per mile, on ;in average. Adding ten per cent, for unforeseen expenses, the whole cost of the road from Boston to the Dorder of the state, will be $2,638,628 64 ; to Albany, $3,254,876 46. It is cal- culated that the cost of transportation, for heavy goods, paying the lowest rates of freight, would be about one cent per mile on an average, exclusive of toUs^ which win add perhaps half a cent more per ton. [A company was organized, in 1827, to open a Water Communication between the Piscataqua and the Con- necticut Rivers, through the waters of Lake Winni- piseogee, and the upper branch of Merrimack River.] Boston and Whitehall Railroad. — A railroad has also been projected to the head of Lake Champlain, at Whitehall, over a route, and in connexion with chan- nels of communication which promise great advan- tages. The route which is proposed, is from Boston through Lowell, Nashua, Amherst, Weare, Henniker, Brad- ford, south end of Simapee Lake, down Sugar River, through Newport, Claremont, and Cornish, to Wind- sor, Vt. — thence through Reading, Plymouth, Shrews- bury, to Rutland ; thence througti Castleton, to lake Champlain, at or near Whitehall. Or, if upon a sur- vey it should be thought expedient, to pass from Lowell up the Merrimack to Concord, and thence to diverge upon the same route. A glance at the map of New-England will be suffi- cient to understand the importance of this project, and to discover that various branches might be run in con- nexion with it, along the most productive portions of the neighbouring districts-. su Oi'i'V OF BOSTUiN. There are numerous manufacturing as well as agif- cultural villages along the route, and granite, soap- stone, lime, marble, copperas, &c. are found in quan- tities in different places, besides a great amount of water-power hitherto unemployed. The present roads from Boston to Whitehall are about 160 miles in length ; and the rail route would not be much greater. For travellers, therefore, as well as for merchandise, it might be an advantageoas work, if once well constructecTand in operation. A route has also been proposed for a Railway com- munication between Boston and Lake Ontario, from Concord to Lebanon on Connecticut River ; thence through the valley of the White River to Montpelier ; by Onion River to Lake Champlain ; and thence to Ogdensburg. The last section, which has been sur- veyed for a state road, is peculiarly favourable. After a survey made for a railroad to Providence, by the authority of the Legislature, a report was made, stating that there are two practicable routes, neither of which would oflTer an elevation above thirty feet in a mile, except one short section. Estimated expense, J5350,000. (See page 312.) Plymouth, 36 miles S, S, E. from Boston. This place is highly interesting from its history, be- ing the site of the first settlement made by the New- England Pilgrims in 1620, on the 22d of December. A mass of granite rock is still shown on which those stepped who first landed. It has been divided, and a J)art of it remains buried near the shore in its natural ocation, while the upper part ia removed into the centre of the village. A handsome building was erected here in 1820, in which the New-England Society hold their annual celebrations of that interesting era in the history of the country, fiurying Hill, which rises near at hand, is the spot where a small fort was erected by the settlers, Coc be ma in set the ci In t mis Canad more Wind.' ihortes leads t\ these, the tolU »\. KOUTEri 111031 BOSTON. 9^r» and where the graves of several of them are still to he found. The banks of the brook south of the hill were the scene of the first conference with Massasoit, a friendly and faithful Indian chief, from whom the name of the Bay, and subsequently that of the state was derived. Manumet point is a promontory on the i-outh side of the harbour ; and a small island on the opposite of it was the spot where the pilgrims first placetf their feet on shore m this vicinity, afier having previously landed on Cape Cod. The vouDg and feeble colony suffered extreme dis- tresses here, from the severity of the climate, (against which they were unpreparea, as they had sailed for a more southern region,) and the want of provisions. Nothing but the assistance of Massasoit preserved them from extinction. SandwichyZ favourite resort for fishing and sea air, is a few miles belov/ Plymouth. There isa good inn kept by Mr. Swift. Routes fkom Boston. Coaches sco in so many directions, that a choice may be made between a great many, all of them pleasant; in setting out for a tour to the westward, or towards the city of New-York : In the first place, the noble scenery of the IVliite nuts may be taken in the way to Late Champlain, Canada, the Springs, or Niagara ; or in makiiig the more circumscribed route of Connecticut River. Next, those who choose a more direct way, may avail themselves of the road through Concord, Keene, and Windsor ; or its branches to Charlestown or Walpole. The last is now much travelled, as it is one of the shortest routes between Boston and the Springs, and leads through a number of interesting places. Besides these, are the roads to Albany or the Springs, through the following different places : Brattlohorough, Bloody l^ror)k. Greonfiold, Northampton, (and New-Lebanon ;) 3ii0 ItOUTlIS FKOM UOST0>. Springfield and Hartford. Of these different route?, it is difficult to make choice of any one to recommend in general. Many have particular objects in view, and some will have less time at their disposal. To strangers, however, it will be proper to remark once more, that the route of Connecticut River presents at once a scene of fertility, population, good habits, and intelligence, on the whole, superior to any other tract of country, of equal extent, in the United States ; with correspondent accommodations for travellers. The sceneiy is rich and varying, and cannot fail to please, wherever it is seen; but those who can first pass through the Notch in the White Mountains, will find its beauties greatly enhanced by the contrast. Since the devastation caused by the nood in 1826, the road has been so much repaired as to be very good : and great improvements have been made at E. A. Craw< lord's, in the ascent of Mount Washiilgton and in ac- commodations. At Hadley and Northampton, is the most beautiful part of the whole river ; and for the other routes, we can only refer to the Index for the descriptions of the principal towns through which they pass. East of Boston, the country is of a different, and too often of an opposite character, presenting a few objects of importance, except the seaports through whicn the chief road passes. There is a line of Steamboats to Maine and JSCew- Brunswick. The Road to Portland and through the most popu- lous part of the state of Maine will be given ; but being of less interest to most travellers from this city, will be placed towards the end of the volume, while we turn our attention to the principal roiitos leading w^st and north from Boston. KOVT£ FROM KOSTUIV TO IVEW-lEBAJsION. 331 To Albany through Worcester, Northamp- Tow, AND Lebanon Springs. WatertowTti like almost all the villages in the vicinity of Boston, presents many neat countiy seats and an aspect of rural beauty and fertility. Framingham. Here is a large and well kept hotel, where the stage coaches stop, and a place of great re- sort. (80 m. from Boston.) Worcester, 20 m. {See Index.) Leicester, 9 m. Spencer, 6 m. Brookfield, This was one of the towns earliest settled in this part of the country, dating as far back as Nov. 10, 1665 ; and for several years the only towns on the west were Hadley, Northampton, &c. while there was no white settlement between it and Canada. The stage coach passes over a lon^ hill in West Brookfield, which commands an extensive pros- pect ; and this was the place Where the settlement began. A few yards west of a white house on the north side of the road, was a house built for defence, and though of little strength, was called the Fort. In August, 1675, this place was suddenly beset by seve- ral nundred savages. The inhabitants had been im- posed upon by the appearance of friendliness shown by the Hassenemesit Indians, and on their way to their fort, a few miles distant, were ambushed and pursued, so that they barely escaped. The house in which Ihey all assembled was besieged, and was several limes in imminent danger. On one occasion a cart, loaded with hemp, &c. and set on tire, was pushed up to the house with long poles, when a sudden shower came up, in time to extinguish the flames. The for- tunate arrival of Capt. Mosely, with a small troop of horsemen, delivered the inhabitants, and drove away the savagf s. All the houses having been burned, and 3.32 KouTE ritoitt liusTo;^ jo .nlu-lbijaaok.- the war soon beginnin!? lo rngo ^viih violence, the set ' tJement was evacuated. The old well still rt'.inains which belonged to the fort or blockhouse ; and there is a rock in a wall, on the opposite side of the road, from behind which an Indian sliot one of the men, who came out to draw water during the siege. The present village is at the bottom of the hill, and is pleasantly situated, with several ponds in the neigh- bourhood, which, with the tish and towl they furnished, ■were the principal attraction of the savages, who were very numerous in this tract of country. These ponds give rise to the Quabaug river, which, after a course of some miles, takes the name of Chicopee, and joins the Connecticut at Springfield. This is the stream which it has been proposed to connect with Boston Bay by a canal, and also by another with the Thames at Norwich, in Connecticut. Four nriiles east of Brookfield you reach a height of land, which affords a varied and extensive view, with a succession of hilly country immediately around you. Ware Factory Village is situated in a little valley, with an excellent inn. The rocks and woods give an air of wildness to the water fall, in their natural state, and the place is now quite picturesque, when a rustic cottage, the residence of the agent, is taken into view. A few years since there were only five buildings ; and now there is a cotton factory, containing 2,000 spindles, and 56 looms ; another with 4^500 spindles, and 150 looms; a third, of the size of the latter; a flannel manufactory, in which are made 15 pieces per week ; dye, wool houses, machine, blacksmith's, cabinet makers*, and various other shops ; grist and saw mill.«. a furnace, &c. But it is on its decline. Belchertown, 9 miles. AmhersU 7 miles. The shortest road to KojlluunptoL does not pa^ U'*; CeJksce, iSfp hcho:.^ m LEXtmiTOlSi J33 hploL HadteVj 5 miles. •■>>-■■«] -.^J " • b^di'^^rr r.wu.^ ROUTE FROM BOSTON TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. The first day's journey is to Concord or Douer, both . * in New-Hampshire. The former route is recom-'|J mended. * There are three roads to Concord, on all which f,^ there are stage coaches. (All necessary information '^^ concerning them, can be readily obtained at the Hotels.V * j; The first is through Cambridge, (where is Harvara;- ] University f see Index,) and Lexington. The second is through Charlestown* and joins the^' other on the Merrimack. ' : ' p V ; • ' :i v/ The third is through Andorver and liaDerhitt, Mass. ' ; The distance is irom 68 to 70 miles, and the tare $3 50. Besides these there is a boat on the Middlesex Canal, which has heretofore left the upper locks in Charles- ^^^^ town, (two miles from Boston), three times a week,J* nnd goes to Chelmsford in about nine hours : 28 miles, '|' passage 75 cents. This mode is not particularly re-;/ commended, ^^ Several places on these roads will be pailicularized. Lexington (.. is remarkable as the place where the fir^t blood was shed |, V^ in the Revolutionaiy war. On the 19th of April, 1776, '^ Gen. Gage sent a l)ody of troops from Boston, to seize ''; a powder house at Concord, belonging to the colony ;'!,' and the inhabitants were warned of his design, by an^^.' express despatched by the Hon. Joseph Warren. Th€l ^ • militia were called out, but, the alarm subsiding, they 'r| were dismissed, with orders, however, to hold them •^Y selves in readiness. The t-nemy unexpectedly made 7; ; their appearance at half past 4, coming on at a quiclf:^'"' step, within a mile and a quarter of the church. Th^^ alarm guns were fired, drums beat, and 60 or 60 miti" Ff 334 BOSTON TO TII£ WHITE .>lUi;;NTAlM!i. tiamen assembled on the parade. The British brigade halted about 120 yards from the church to load, and then passing the east end of the building, discovered the Americans, who were ordered at the moment, by their commander, Capt. Parker, to "disperse, and take care of themselves," but ** not to fire." As some of them loitered, the British troops rushed towards them, huzzaing. Major Pitcairn tired a pistol at them, when about 30 yards distant, after they had been called "rebels," and ordered them to lay down their arms and disperse. Another officer, who was within a few yards of them, then brandished his sword, and ordered the troops to " firey" which was obeyed at the second order ; and the tire being returned, it was kept up on the dispersing men until they had all disappeared. Eight were killed, and ten wounded. (Gen. Gage falsely stated that the British were tirst tired upon.) After the regulars had tired a volley, from the green behind the church, and given three cheers, they pro- ceeded to Concord. On their return, being hard pressed by sharp shooters, they burned three houses, a shop, and a barn, killed three more men, and wounded one. Andover is a small village, situated on high ground, 20 miles from Boston, remarkable for the rhilips Academy and Theological Seminary, which are three-fourths of a mile east from it, on the summit of the ascent. There are three lai^e brick buildings, belonging to the Semi- naiy, which make a conspicuous figure from different parts of the surrounding country, and command a view of great extent, bounded on the west by the Temple Hills in New-Hampshire, backed by the Monadnoc, about 60 miles off; and on the south by the Blue Hills. A litvl<» elevation near by affords a view of the Atlantic Ocean, from about Newburyport to L ape Ann, v'ith pari nf Salem; and north-west is a hUWKLt. 335 ;> « Haverhill /./I'j' > it; is a small town, but pleasantly situated, on the north bank of the Merrimack, the snores of which, for some distance below, present a beautiful and fertile slope to the water. A draw-bridge crosses the river, with a roof to protect it from the weather. ■t^ V^ ";,; Lowell, i '■■.■\i- i'. 12 miles from Boston. This has been one of the greatest manufacturing places In the United States, and one of the most astonishing rapidity of growth. No longer ago than 1813 the first cotton factory was erected here, which cost only about {3,000. Larger ones were founded in 1818; and two years after, the ** Merrimack Manufacturing Company^' made a pur- chase of buildings and ground, with toe determination to take advantage of the extensive water power which nature has granted to the place. The falls are 30 feet high, and a little below the spot where the Middlesex canal commences, leading to Chariestown, near Boston ; and round them the Company improved an old canal, (at the expense of $120,000,; for the supply of their water wheel?. There is power enough for 50 factcf- a3t> BOSTON TO TUB WHITE MOU.NTAliN.-'. rjcs with 3,500 spindles each. The place now pre- sents the aspect of a large villa&fe, laid out and built , with rcmarKable uniformity. The number of facto- ries iH sixy one having been lately burned, each con- taining 3,500 spindles. They are reKularly disposed, 4 with the avenues between the habitations abutting against the yard. In 1827 they used about 450,000 lbs. of cotton, and made about two million yards of ;, cloth : three-fourths of which was d>ed or printed at a neighbouring establishment. There is also a large machine shop near at hand. There had been invested, in 1828, nearly two and a half millions of dollars. The number of persons employed in 1828 was about 1,600. In 1829, great calamities befell this, as well as many other large manufacturing establishments in the country. Great failures took place, work people lost their em- ployment, and a general depression occurred, from which the recovery must be gradual. The manufac- tories of New-England, with few exceptions, present far less activity than at the period when the last edi- tion of the Northern Traveller was published. Chelmsford is one of the principal manufacturing places in the United States. Manufactories in New-Hampshire. So recently as 1810 there were but 12 cotton manufactories in this state, with 5956 spindles ; and only about two million yards of woollen, cotton, flaxen, and tow cloth were made in them and in private families during that year. The number of cotton and woollen manufactories was, in 1827, more than 50 ; and the cloth made was about 30 millions of yards. But great misfortunes have since occurred. Great Falls Village is a village five miles above Dover, belonging to the town o? Somerworth, of 60 or 70 dwellings, built within a few months, and four manufactories. One of these is for cotton, with 1500 spindles, and makes 7000 yards No. 20 in a week. One tor woollen, 156 feet long, with near 6000 spin- dles, and makes 16,000 or 18,000 yards of No. 40 CO!»iC'ORl>. :^6' weekly. One is for broadcloth, 220 feet long; and another, 390 feet long, for cotton and woollen. Nashua Village, >fl i^',i<' i in Dunstable, 33 miles from Concord. The fall in the Nashua river is 65 feet, and the power e(}ual to about 65,000 spindles. Here are some astonishing improve* ments. In 1825 there were two great manufactories, each 155 feet by 48, one for cotton and the other for woollen, with a dye house 150 by 48, a wood house and machine shop 250 by 30, 8tc. The buildings for the work people form small and. regular villages. Dover. i This is one of the principal towns in the state,* and contains several manufactories, although the supply of water is by no means abundant at all seasons. In crossing the bridge there are seen three large manu- factories, each about two hundred feet in length ; and the foundation of a fourth was laid in 1825, although the contracted space afforded on the banks required the blasting out of a great quantity of rock for the foundation and sluiceways. About five miles above Dover, at Salmon River Falls, is a village containing four manufactories, of different sizes, from 63 to 390 feet in length, and of five and six stories in height. CONCORD ' is the capital of New-Hampshire, and a veiy fine add flourishing town. It is much the largest the tra- * The total of the militia of New- Hampshire is 28,415 mea, viz : iiir fantry, light infantry, and grenadiers, 1^,491 ; ca?sdiy, 1,529; artillery, 1.639; riflemen. 756. _^ F f 2 338 BOSTON TO THE WHITE MOUJiTAIKS. veller will see before reaching the White Mountains, and for a great distance beyond them. fn/w.— The two principal stage houses, just south of the state house, are large and commodious — that next the state house is particularly recommended. There are several others above and, below, though of much inferior pretensions. The town is situated principally on one street, which is of a great length and very convenient breadth, with manjr respectable houses ; and runs parallel with the MerrimacK, which is at only a short distance on the cast. The State House occupies a conspicuous situation near the middle of the towrr,a little removed from the street, and surrounded by a handsome stone wall, en- closing an area. It is built of hewn granite from the quarry, and is a neat edifice, 100 feet long, with a large hall on the first floor, and on the second the Senate and Representatives' Chambers, with the com- mittee rooms, state offices, &c. &c. The view from the top is extensive, but embraces a tract of country too little cultivated to be rich, and too unvaried to be picturesque. At the northward are seen two or three distinct peaks, which may serve as an earnest of the magnificent scenery to be presented to the traveller in that direction. The State Prison is built at a short distance from the State House, and bears a still greater appearance of solidity and strength. There is an Academy in Concord, with several churches. Several newspapers are printed here, and fazettes from distant places may be found at the inns, 'armer & Moore's Gazetteer of New-Hampshire is the best companion for a traveller in this state. In 1828, the Legislature of New-Hampshire divided the literary fund among the towns, to be appropriated by them according to their discretion. From what may have been observed of the granite rocks along the road, the stranger must have admired f,W'^*«»w* I «f |i jm Hi« 1 ipifiuf |,^^p Jill ' ^ »)!«. ^^I»iii^'» ' CONCORD. 339 their superior quality, and the freedom and precision of their fracture, wherever the wedge is judiciously applied. Great quantities have been transported to Boston, and other cities farther distant, for building stone. A large rock, which was cut in pieces in 1823, sold for J6,129 in Boston. This single rock made 10,500 feet of facing stone and ornamental work — and the aggregate weight of all the blocks (smooth hewn) was 550 tons, it having lost only 50 tons in being prepared for the market, after it was brought to the prison yard. The fine blocks broken out of the old Doulders, for the posts of fences, as well as for steps, mill stones, &c. must have shown the excellence of the granite of this part of the country. The same characteristics, in greater or less degrees, will be found to attend the whole of the granite range of the White Mountains, till its last appearance about Bath, on Connecticut river. It is uncommon, in this part of the country, to find a single rock formation extending such a distance without any interruption. To what diflferent dates geologists may hereafter refer the coarsest varieties on Mount Washington, the disinte- s^rating rocks of Red Mountain, the boulders of Winnipiseogee Lake, interspersed with their crystals of felfjpar three or four inches in length, and the white, fine grained granite of Concord and Chelmsford, it is not for the hasty traveller to inquire. Doubtless many interesting facts will be elucidated, when scien- tific men shall devote their researches to the subject, and trace the boulders along the Ammonoosuc and VVinnipiseogee Lake, to the rocks and mountains from which some long past convulsion has torn them away. The Merrimack River has been rendered naviga- ble, by various improvements, from Con«ord to Chelmsfordj where the Middlesex Canal opens a com- munication directly to Boston, 28 miles. Small manu- facturing villages succeed each other along the banks wherever the canals round the falls and rapids afford water-power. Some of them we have noticed 340 BOSTON TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. In 1825 a plan was formed for extending the improve- ments, and to render the river navigable toNewbury- port, on the coast, by making a canal round the falis» near Haverhill. The expense was estimated at ^300,000, and it was believed that the sale of water privileges would repay a large part of the sum. A direct water communication is kept up between this river and Boston, through the Middlesex Canal, by means of boats, which carry merchandise down for $5 a ton, and bring it up for $7. Roads. ^ Several lines of stage coaches meet in this town three times a week. Three go to Boston, one to Portsmouth, one to Plymouth, one to Haverhill, and one to Burlington, bj the way of Windsor. Another line has been established between this place and Con- way, on the road to the J^otch in the Mountains. {From Plymouth a stage wagon ffoes through Fran- conia Notch to Littleton. The road follows the Pemi- gewasset, through fine, magnificent scenery. The country, however, is almost uninhabited until reach- ing Franconia, where are iron works, and a curious Srofile on a mountain, called the Old Man of the [ountain. (See Index, Franconia.) There is an ex- cellent inn at Littleton : the new brick one. The place ib about 40 miles from Plymouth.] [Two routes have been proposed for connecting the Merrimack and Connecticut : Lst, by Baker's River to Wentworth ; and 2d, by way of Sunapee Lake, 810 feet above the Connecticut, and 858 above the Merrimack at Concord.] There is a road on each side of the lake towards Conway, but that on the west is recommended. At all events, the traveller should spend a day at Centre Harbour, to which the road is pleasant and the coun- tiy agreeable, although there are but few villages on the way. ~" "^"*'t ¥V\ .■,- ■f^' WINNIFISEOGEE LAK£. 341 Two roads from Concord lead to Meredith Bridge Villap;e — (Badger's) 24 miles distant ; one by Sand- bomton bridge (Tilton's), 15 miles — the other by the Shaker village (Shaker's Inn and CoggswelFs), 12 miles. From M. B. Village, delightfully situated between two bays, and on the beautiful river that never freezes, it is nine miles to the shore of the Lake at Meredith Cove, and thirteen to Centre Harbour. (Center's and Moulton's.) For some miles before reaching that place, the country begins to assume the features of bold and mountain scenery. Even before arriving at the lake, the prospect is varied with many of those noble ele* vations which rise to such a height of grandeur and sublimity as the traveller proceeds ; and the frequent glimpses afforded between the sloping hills, over the beautiful lake below, by a happy contrast increase the effect. WINNIPISEOGEE LAKE. The number and diversity of the islands with which the lake is spangled, will be objects of particular ad- miration. They are countless for multitude, and in size present all gradations between a single rock and a surface sufiurient for several extensive farms. Iron ore is found in Gunstock Mountain, south of the lake. If a steamboat should be placed on Winnipiseogee Lake, the traveller hardly need be advised to take advantage of it to make an excursion. A company was to be formed with this object. Centre Habbovr. There are two inns here, at either of which the tra- veller may find himself comfortable, and /here be will be amply rewarded, if the weather be fine, by ^T ^ „^^ v-y.^ 342 BOSTOiS TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. stopping^ at least a day to make an excursion to the top of Red Mountain. This eminence may be about 1500 feet in height, and is accessible for about two-thirds of the way m a carriage or on horseback, though not without some difficulty on account of the steepness and roughness of the road. Indeed, the path is very rocky for half a mile or more before reaching the base of the moun- tain, and the hardy pedestrian will prefer to leave his horse at the main road, before turning off by the mill. The traveller should direct his course towards a little notch he will see about three-quarters of the distance up, where a cultivated field and a fence are visible. From the house situated there, he must turn towards the left, and follow a path to the summit. An early visit is recommended, as the scene is much improved by an oblique li^ht, and the morning is on several accounts to be preferred. The following sketch of the scene was noted down on the spot, and may be taken as generally correct. Norths the eastern end of Squam Lake, and part of a pond lying near it, with the range of the Sandwich Mountains behind, stretching off towards the east, with numerous dark brown pea&s, partl}r cultivated about their bases, and enveloped above with forests, except- ing their summits, which are generally divested of verdure. Far beyond these appear several loftier peaks, which might be mistaken for the White Moun- tains, were they visible from this point. An interme- diate peak with rocky precipices may be White-faced Mountain, East-North'East. The eye ranges up the spacious valley through which lies the way to the White Moun- tains ; and the road which is to conduct the traveller seems diminished to the dimensions of a garden walk. Choca^ay, or, as it i« familiarly called, Corrnn'ay Peak Ossip and i mous beaut lots ai croaci sue tf their i distan the p( finally its reir and r€ less dii by the Lovel I ."ind the in that retreat. East. and no South llie righ lies cha rous poi tiful isia distant sloping alon^ tl ^ed m a to the points . Jabyrint tain rise! which CI The ele Island, n ^f a bourn " |iw 1 iP'U*V'T'J^'i™'i^n»*TWiA ,.Iil!T(i«ii|. I VIEW FKOM UEO MOUM'AIIV. .545 Peak, rises on the left ; while the noble ridge of the Ossipee Mountains begins nearer at hand on the rights and almost overshadows the observer with its enor- mous size. The sides of these mountains show a beautiful display of farms, interspersed with wood- lots and dwell ingSt which in many places have en* croached far towards the summits, and in others pur- sue the slope of the fertile uplands to the valley at their feet. Numerous elevations appear at a greater distance, and range themselves in lines to complete the perspective of a must magniiicent vista, which finally closes at a ridge, whose shade is reduced by its remoteness to the colour of a cloud. A prominent and remarkable mountain, which appears scarcely less distant, is called Pickwacket Mountain, and rises by the Saco River, near the place where Captain Lovel fought his well-known battle with the Indians ; and the fine valley between is the countiy passed over in that fatal expedition, both in the approach and the retreat. East. The view abuts upon the Ossipee Mountains, and no variety is afforded until we turn to the South-South'East, In that direction, and farther to the right, the whole surface of Winnipiscogee Lake lies charmingly spread out to view, varied by nume- rous points and headlands, and interspersed with beau- tiful islands which man despairs to number. Several distant elevations appear, on this side of which the sloping land just mentioned extends for several miles along the shore, with a well-cultivaj.ed surface spot- ted in all directions with large barns and farm-houses, to the very margin of the lake. There numerous points run out far into the water, to complete the labyrinths formed by the islands. Gunstock Moun- tain rises one point east of south, just on the lett of which opens the entrance of Merry-meeting Bay. The elevated land on the right of that is RattlesnaKe Island, named from the venomous reptiles with which Jt abounds ; over this the distant land appears high o >44 JiOSTON TO THE WHITE MOU2NTA1K6. South-b^-west rises a high hill resembling the Ossipee in the richness of its slopes. The South'West and West is agreeably varied with wood-lots and cleared fields, scattered over an undu- lated surface^ which extends for many miles, in some places quite to the horizon, and in others to the broken boundary of tall but distant mountains. In the south- west appear two or three peaks, so far removed that they are almost lost in the blue of the sky. Nearly west are seen several ridges of inferior magnitude, which, approaching as the eye slowly moves towards the left, at length come near the lake, and disappear behind the neighbouring mountains. Long Pond may be distinguished by its shining sur- face between the west and south, with several other little sheets of water, which lie in tranquillity under the shelter of the hills. Winnipiseogee Lake is 19 miles in length, from Cen« tre Harbour to Alton, at the south-eastern extremity. Merry-meeting Bay lies beyond. Several of the islands are large, and contain good farms and wealthy inhabitants, although only two or three of them belong to any town, or pay any taxes. Some of their names are Rattlesnake, Cow, Bear, and Moon Island ; also, Half Mile, One Mile, Two Mile Island, &c. &c. None of them contain churches ; and although they have no school-houses, yet sufficient attention is paid to the rudiments of education to render the children intelligent.'*^ * VtTinnipiseogee Lake, according to surveys made by Mr. Baldwin in 1825, is* 501 feet above the ocean. It lias |)een proposed to begin a canal from Merry-meeting River, at the south end, to Dover, a distance of 28 miles, and to continue the navigation through th^s lake, and Long, Square, and Little Squaw Lakes, to Merrimack i^iver, making in all a distance of 65 miles It will be necessary to riise the lake two feet by a dan? at the outlet, and to cut to the depth of about 17 feet for 7 miles. The esthiiates have been made for a canal ot these dimensions : 25 feet wide at the bottom, 4 feet of water, with stone locks 12 feet in the clear, and 82 feet long. It will require 60 locks, which will cost $5,500 each, and the cost from the lake to Dover is computed at $590,982. If con- tinued through the lakes to Merrimack River, to meet a canal from Baker's River, the expense would be increased to about f731.47«. A^ bUUAH LAKE. Mo Squam Lake lies west from Red Mountain, and like Winnipiseogee Lake, abounds not only in islands, but in fish of the finest descriptions. Fine trout are caught here in great abundance, and of a size superior to those of the other lake. The trout of Winnipiseogee Lpke vary from 1 to 4 pounds in weight, while those of Squam Lake are between 4 and 10. They are some- times caught of nearly double this size ; but that is very uncommon. The trout fishery is chiefly carried on durine the winter, when great quantities are salted for the Ssston market. Perch also abound very much in these waters, and are remarkably fine. ^ ii #4. Geology. The sides of Red Mountain are covered with halfdecomposed granite. ^On the south-eastern side of the lake a bed of porcelam clay has been dis- covered, which is probably derived from a similar source.) The granite is speckled with hornblende and black mica. No rocks are seen in situ, except near the summit, where they bear a gentle dip towards the north, and are slightly tinged with reddish quartz and felspar. The hue of the shrubbery in autumn has given the mountain its name. The summit is strewed with loose fragments ; and musquetoes and black Jlki often abound there. A few days may be spent at Centre Harbour very agreeably, in making shooting and fishing excursions in the nei^hbourhoo(^ or in sailing upon the lake, which abounds in the most interesting variety of scenes. On leaving this place by water, at the distance of five miles, the White Mountains rise into view above the interme- diate peaks, and continue in sight quite across the lake. A few deer are still found in some places in the neighbourhood, but being protected by law, and still more by their scarcity, are very rarely taken. that point, the distance from tlie Connecticut, by Baker's River, is 34 miles. Tlie focilities tliese worics would afford for manufacturing would be very valuable, but tbe number of loclis will be a great objection. s^ DOSTON TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. From Centre Harbouk TO CoNWAv. Proceeding north-east from Centre Harbour, yotr enter the valley between the two chains of mountains seen from the top of Red Mountain, and pass through Moultonboro* and Tamworth. The surface is irregu- lar, and much of the land uncleared ; but settlements have extended far up the sides of some of the moun- tains, and farms are occasionally discovered quite at the top. The features of the scenery are bold and striking. Eaton Meeting House. Two miles northwardly from this, Ossipee Lake may be seen by leaving the road ; but it has nothing very interesting in its ap- pearance. Near Atkinson^s inn is the Lead Mine, discovered three or four years since. A shaft has been sunk about 50 feet, with a horizontal drift, and the ore is good. Conway, 6 miles, t . - I ■• * At Conway there is a house kept by Mr. Abbett, at the dividing of the roads, which is comfortable, although heretofore without a tavern sign. The view of the white Mountains is very line from this place, presenting a succession of lotty ridges, the most dis- tant of which are the peaks of Mounts Washingtmi, AdamSi Jefferson, Madison, Monroe, and ^uincy. The most prominent elevation on the right, with two sum- mits, is Kearsearge, or Pickwaket : a level meadow lies in the foreground, with an isolated, woody hill in the middle, and the Saco River, which rises on Mount Washington, and flows down a narrow valley, with many meanderings. Tne shortest road from Conway to the mountains leads directly to Bartlett : but the most travelled as well as the most agreeable route is by the way of (JtlALYUEATE SPRIN6. 347 Fiyeburgh, where will be seen the beautiful tract of level country thmue^h which meanders the Saco Kiveri and the great Pickwaket Mountain, which rises from its border. That was the beautiful and favourite resi- dence of the nation of Pickwaket Indians, and on the bank of Lovei^s Pond was fought a bloody battle be* tween them and a company of troops from Massachu- setts, in the year 1725. [It is probable that a road will soon be made round the north end of the White Mountains, throueh the town of Adams, to avoid the Notch. The land is level in that direction, alon^ the course of the Andros* coggin, and the distance to Lancaster nearly the same. Whenever it shall be completed, it will offer a very agreeable route to the traveller, with fine views, but not so wild as those on the present route. The White Mountains are interesting, and worthy of attention from ever^ side in which they are brought under the traveller's view ; and if any one should wish to visit them from the town of Adams, he may be gratified by pursuing a path not unfrequently trodden before. Mr. Stephen Meserve, of that place, has often obligir^ly favoured strangers with much useful local in- formation concerning the best routes and the principal objects of curiosity. The mountains present a steep acclivity in the direction channelled by numerous avalanches which have rushed down at different pe- riods. The Pinkham road runs at their base ; and the New River may be seen, which has undergone transmutations which the Greeks might have recorded in their mythology. It was thrown out of its natural channel in 1776, by an immense slide, or avalanche ; and has been restored to it by that of 1826, whose ra- vages are so wide-spread and tremendous.] The Chalybeate Spring. Turn off from the road to the west about 3 miles uorth of Abbett's. cross the Saco, and enter a fields 348 BOSTON TO THE WHITE ATOUMTAINS. where it is found. A house is kept in the neighbour- hood by Mrs. McMillan, which has been late^ over- flowing with visiters during the warm season. The countiy abounds in scenes attractive to persons of taste. A ]ittle church is situated in a secluded and romantic valley; and the place is destined for a fashionable resort. The place is off the road, and may be missed. It is in a valley, with mountains on every side except the south-east. From near the church, the White Mountains are in sight. Two or three miles above, the Saco valley bends to the left, and Ellis's River comes down a narrower vale in front. Up the course of this stream was formerly a route by which the highest peaks were ascended. A footpath leaves it ir Adatns, and goes on to ShelbumenjSic. It is 7 miles to Hairs, in Bartlett. Fryeburoh. The township of Fryeburgh, in its extent of six square miles, embraces a rich and beautiful valley, secluded on every side by a wild and mcMntainous range of country. The Saco River, taking its rise on Mount Washington, and flowing through the Notch in the White Hills, passes down the valley to Conway, where it finds the termination of the southern range ; and then turning abruptly to the east, soon enters the charming meadows of Fryeburgh, and performs a ser- pentine course of no less than 36 miles within the limits of the township. The Indian Fort was on a gentle hill at the western side of the village, which commands a view of the Saco valley six miles up its course, and six miles down. Lovel's Pond is on an isthmus, about one mile south-east from the village, and is memorable as the scene of one of the LOVEL 8 EXPEDITION. 34» most severe and disastrous battles in the old partisan warfare against the Indians. The Portland Road passes alone the western side of the pond, and at present affords a view of it only from that part of the high ground which is near its north end. This, however, was the place of the action. Another road runs very near the north shore ; and it is a pleasant ride to the place. ^' ■■ ■■■ i .'. ■ .% Lovel's Expedition. •*: In 1725, Cai)tain Lovel was induced to undertake a secret expedition through the wilderness against the Pickwaket tribe of Indians, who, instigated by the French, had committed many depredations on the frontier, so that the general court of Massachusetts had offered 100 pounds each for their scalps. His com- pany consisted of 30 or 40 men, many of tJiiem accus- tomed to the life of hardy hunters and settlers, with young Mr. Frye for their chaplain, whose history was somewhat romantic, and from whom this town received its name. They passed up Winnipiseogee Lake, then to Ossipee rond, where they built a blockhouse, and placed their stores ; then following up the course of the Saco, encamped at the mouth of Mill Brook at the north-west corner of Lovel's Pond, on the ni^ht pre- ceding the battle, intending to cross the isthmus, (which i% reduced by the pond to the breadth of U miles,) and fall upon the Indian Fort. The next morning they deviated from their route, and the great body of Indians having discovered the encampment, and the way they had gone, formed an ambush, fired upon them on tneir return, and killed eight men. The white men retreated to the north-east corner of the pond, where is a narrow strip of land, and defended themselves till night ; and the remains of the unfortunate expedition returned through the forest, suffering from hunger and fatigue, and some of Gg2 360 JBOSTON TO TUB WUITE MOVZHTAOS. tbem from wounds. One of the first wounded escaped by getting into a canoe, which was driven across the pond by a north wind ; but a fugitive, who reached the blockhouse at Ossipee Lake, reported that the ex- pedition had been entirely cut off, so that the garrison nastily removed the provisions, and thus increased the suffermgs of the survivors. The Sia^e Coach from Conway to Portland passes through Ftyebur^h early in the morning, one or per- haps more days m the week, and arrives at Portland the same evening, by Hiram, Baldwin, Standisb, and Gorham. The coach to Concord eoes through Conway. [Paris is a pleasant anaflourishing town, about 36 miles east from Fryeburgh ; but tfake roads and the inns in that part of the country are generally poor.] A tremendous catastrophe occurred among the White Mountains on the night of Aug. 28th, 1826. A storm of rai^, unprecedented within the memoiy of the oldest inhabitants, deluged the principal peaks of the mountains, and poured such an inundation upon the valleys and plains below, that it is commonly at- tributed to the " bursting of a cloud ;" although that expression is a very ill-defined one. The effects pro- duced by the flood will remain for centuries ; and as many ot these lie exposed to the eye, the route will offer many new objects interesting tc an intelligent traveller. It will afford him a very desirable oppor- tunity to observe, in some places, the structure of^the mountains, where ibeir interior has been laid bare by the falling of vast quantities of earth and rocks ; and in others, exemplifications to confirm the modern geog- nostical theories, to explain the phenomena observable in valleys, plains, and the courses of rivers. Geolo- gists and mineralogists, too, may expect to meet with curious and valuable specimens, among the enormous wrecks they will observe on either hand. The inundation was so great and so sudden, that the channels of the streams were totally insufficient to ^dmi quen of th form< by th stone forest ** slid (knov suppc from { occun among power awo a control The 3uantil eposii porary noated bers, fi they w with d which mounta some I meado depth < The country entirely bridges with st( ran aloi The choJy t] this ini lars-e « THE INUr^DATION OF 18J(i. 361 sidmit of the passage of the water, which conse- quently overflowed the little level valleys at the feet of the mountains. Innumerable torrents immediately formed on all sides ; and such deep trench«'S were cut by the rashing^ water, that vast bodies of earth and stones fell from the mountains, bearing with them the forests that had covered them for ages. Some of these ** slides," as they are here popularly denomifiated, (known among the Alps as " avalanches de terre^'*^) are supposed to have been half a mile in breadth, and from one to five miles in length. Scarcely any natural occurrence can be imagined more sublime ; and among the devastation which it has left to testify the power of the elements, the traveller will be filled with awo at the thought ot that Being by whom they are controlled and directed. The streams broueht away with them immense Quantities of earth and sand, which the turbid water deposited, when any obstacle threw it back, in tem- porary ponds and lakes. The forest trees were also floated down, and may now be observed in great num- bers, frequently several miles from the places where they were rooted up. The timber was often marked witii deep grooves and trenches, made by the rocks which passed over them during their descent from the mountams ; and great heaps of trees are deposited in some places, while in others, the soil of the little meadows is buried with earth, sand, or rocks, to the depth of several feet. The turnpike road leading through this romantic country, was twenty miles in length, but was almost entirely destroyed. Twenty-one of the twenty-three bridges upon it were demolished : one of them, built with stone, cost $1000. In some places, the Saco river ran along the road, and cut down deejp channels. The Willey Home was thf scene of a most melan- choljT traeedy on the night above mentioned, when this inundation occurred. Several days previously, a largre " slide" came down from the mountains behind 3^ •M 365:i THE WHITE MOUNTAIKS. it, and passed so near as to cause great alarm, without any injury to the inmates. The house was occupied by Mr. Calvin Willey, whose wife was a youn^ wo^ man of a very interesting character, and of an educa- tion not to be looked for in so wild a region. They had a number of young children, and their family at the time included several other persons, amounting in ail to eleven. They were waked in the night by the noise of the storm, or more probably, by the second descent of avalanches from the neighbouring moun- tains ; and fled in their night clothes from the bouse to seek their safety, but thus threw themselves in the way of destruction. One of the slides, 100 feet high, stopped within 3 feet of the house. Another took away the barn, and overwhelmed the family. Nothing was found of them for some time : their clothes were iying at their bedsides, the house not having been started on its foundation : an immense heap of earth pnd timber, which had slid down, having stopped before it touched it ; and they had a I been crushed on leaving the door, or borne i tvay with the water that overflowed the meadow. The bodies of several of them were never found. A catastrophe so melancholy, and at the same time so singular in its circumstances, has liardly ever occurred. It will always furnish the traveller with a melancholy subject of reflection. Bartlett is a comfortable village, situated in a rich valley, or interval, of about 300 acres, where the view is bounded on every side by near and lofVy mounts summer season, thouKh open, wih its cheerless slielter, to all comers : in the winter a family occupied it to keep a fire, lod((in^s, and a little food, proviaed for the travellers and wagoners, who might otherwise perish for want of the ij«i: -<'' i of life. For an account of the melancholy ca^a^iirophe which has marked this place with an affecting and lasting association, see the previous remarks on the inundation of 1 8S6. {See page 361.) The climate is so cold, that the land is not worth cultivating ; and although the place has been occupied by f;everar tenants, no one would keep the house in re- pair, even rent free. There are no good uplands, the soil there being all gravel ; and the climate is sensibly colder than at the last stopping place. There is a place near tne Ivotcht where the road sutfered severe injury. It had been built up against the side of a mountain, on a wall 40 or 60 feet nigh> and about 30 vards in extent, at the expense of t|^60C. This whole fabric was swept away by a mass of earth, rocks, and trees, which came from hah a mile up the side of the niountain, and rushing down at an angle of about 46<>, precipitated itself into the bed of the Saco, which is nearly 300 feet below.. In repairing this road in the winter, the workmen had great difnculty in ptting over the obstructions. They exoected to find out little daylight at that h>; season of^the 3[ear; but they found that the sumn.?^ of the mountains received very earl}r intelligence of morning, and the snows reflected ft into the valleys and ravines. ?w i '■ p-?^W' Vk fts © © THE r^OTCU. xMJb "' The road rises with a steep ascent for a considerable distance before it reaches the Notch, and the traveller observes two cataracts, one pouring down a precipi- tous mountain at a distance on the west side of tne valley, and the other, which is called The Flume, rushing down on the right-hand, and crossing the road under a bridge. The scenery is sublime and impressive beyond description. Just beyond is another Flume* About 150 yards beyond is the first great slide seen in coming from the Notch. The Notch is so narrow as to allow only room enough for the path and the Saco, which is here a mere brook only four feet in breadth. It is remarkable that the Saco and the Ammonoosuc spring from fountains on Mount Washington, within, perhaps, 60 yards of each other, though the former empties into the Atlantic, and the latter joins Connecticut Kiver. Another branch of the Ammonoosuc approaches the Saco in one place, within about 600 yards. They are both crossed beyond the Notch. The head waters of the Merrimack rise within about a mile and a half of this place ; and run down a long ravine, little less remarkable than that of the Saco. The Notch Meadow. Here a house has been re- cently erected, at which the traveller will find accom- modation, and where it is recommended to him to take up his quarters during his stay. It is situated on a small meadow, probably formed at an early period, when the water of the Saco was set back ana over- fiowed the neighbouring surface, before the convulsion occurred by which the blotch was formed, and a pass- age was opened to it. The spot is probably the most advantageous that could have been cnosen on the road, for a public house. It is sheltered by the neighbouring mountains, presents a level surface, and is within the distance of a few yards of the remarkable pass which wm 1 i I i' ill 356 THE WHITE MOUMTAl^'S. opens the way through the towering; ridge southward, along the avenue to the still distant regions of civili- zation. The change presented to one comine down is so sudden, that the mind is greatly affected. From the level surface over which be has proceeded by a smooth road, that bends alonjr one maigin of the meadoW; while the Saco brook has been leisurely making the circuit of the other side, at a sudden turn round a rude projecting rock, he finds the meadow suddenly terminated, a dark and narrow defile opening beside, and the stream appearing and disappearing almost at the same instant, as it begins to dart down the steep descent which is opened at once to the cur- rent ana the road. A traveller arriving at this spot from the westward, can hardly paint in his own ima-< gination an adequate picture of tne wild and magnifi- cent objects which await him along the route ; and he who has already passed among them will never be able to erase the impression from his memoiy. From a distance the striped and channelled ap- pearance of the mountains prepares the mind in some measui'e for the effects of tne ^reat inundation ; but, however great the effort the imagination may have made, the fancy will here find itself greatly surpassed. A road was first made through the Notch in 1785. It was 50 or 60 feet higher than the present turnpike, and so b^ ep that it was necessary to draw horses and wagons up with ropes. The assessment for the turn- pike was made in 1806. Two rocks stand at the sides of this remarkable passaj^e, one 20, and the other about 30 feet, in per- pendicular height. They are about 20 feet asunder, at 6 or 7 yards from the north end ; then they open to 30 feet. The part which appears to have been cut through is about 120 feet long. The Notch meadow opens beyond ; and after a ride of 4^ miles, the tra- veller reaches another comfortable house, kept by Mr. E. A. Crawford, where also he will be received and entertained. E hous office and i with of th the ; ** Can have the in to the and th thv de Tiie arduou; but sev those vv lies thrc over a < miles ar from an Thet cursion From Them Retur Thenc The s to be crc undation (if the W( ilOt^T WASHim;TO]M. o67 Ethan Jl. Crawford's House, The master of the house also will act as a guide, and is qualified for the office, both by his intimate acquaintance with the way, and the various kind attentions and amusing anecdotes with which he knows how to relieve the tediousncss of the ascent. The best arrangement is to set out in the afternoon, spend the night at the wigwam or ^^Campt^^ ascend the mouiilaiutarly in the ntorning, to have tne benefit of the view by sunrise, and return to the inn before the ensuing evening. It is 6 or 7 miles to the " Camp," 3 of which are passable in a carriage and the rest on horseback, though much impeded by thv devastations of the great storm. MOUNT WASHINGTON. The ascent of the mountain was formerly a most arduous undertaking, and was very rarely performed, but several ladies have lately been enumerated among those who have gained the summit. The whole way lies through a perfect forest. The first 6 or 7 miles are over a surface comparatively level ; but the last two miles and a quarter are up an ascent not differing much from an angle of forty-five degrees. The time to perform the different parts of this ex- cursion may be estimated as follows : hours. From the inn to the camp, 2 Thence to the summit, 2 miles and 93 rods, 2 or 2^ Returning from summit to camp, . . . 1| Thence to the inn, 2 The streams of the Ammonoosuc River, which are to be crossed seven times, show the ravages of the in- undation of 1826, but a comfortable bed, and a fire, (if the weather be chill,) will be found very welcome at U'-'^] ,j». n h 368 TJIK WIUTE MOUNTAIM. The Cami', 6J miles from Crawford's. Here provisions of difler- ent kinds will be produced, and even cooked by a cheerful fire ; and if the travellers are sportsmen, and the season is favourable, a dish of fine trout may soon be obtained from the romantic little stream which dashes by within a short distance. The ascent of Mount Washington begins just at hand, and the mo»t arduous exertion will be necessary to attain the summit, which seems to fly before the stranger when he deems it just attained, and to look down in derision from a new and more hopeless height. The first part of the way is through a thick forest of heavy timber, which is suddenly succeeded by a girdle of dwarf and knarled fir-trees, 10 or 15 feet nigh, and 80 rods, or about 450 yards, broad ; which, ending as suddenly as they began, give place to a kind of short bushes, and finally a thin bed of moss, not half sufficient to conceal the immense granite rocks which deform the surface. For more than a mile, the surface is entirely destitute of trees. A few strag- gling spiders, and several species of little flowering plants, are the only objects that attract the attention, under the feet. The following heights are stated to be those of the different peaks, above the level of Connecticut River at Lancaster : Washington, 5,350 ; Jefferson, 5,261 ; Adams, 5,183 ; Madison, 5,039 ; Monroe, 4,932.; Quincy, 4,470. Mount Washington is believed to be more than 6,400 feet above the ocean. In a clear atmosphere the view is sublime, and al- most boundless. The finest part of it is towards tho south-east and south* Looking down the valley, through which the road has conducted us, a fine suc- cession of mountainous summits appear for manv "iiles, ioi extent Mount and to the coi ijorizor sbarpei witbou Jand, th OntI foggin scenery dians, U approac setts anc Hills, nc J^orth and the i AndroscJ West, covered casional (or clear hiiJs are i necticut hidden fr higher, te in Vermoi South'TSi. The Ir name of cessible, o ;s a little t neautiftil THE LAKfi OF THE CLOUDS. 3o"J miles, extending beyond the bright surface of Winnipi- >e()eee Lake. Towards the south-east also, the eye ranges over an extent of surface, which quite bewilders the mind. Mountains, hills, and valleys, farm houses, villages, and towns, add their variety to the natural features of the country ; and the ocean may be discovered at the horizon with the help of a telescope, although the sharpest sight has never been able to distinguish it without «uch assistance. In that direction lies Port- land, the capital of Maine ; and nearer, LovePs Pond. On the north-east is seen the valley of the Andros- coggin River, which abounds in wild and romantic scenery, and was the usual passage by which the In- dians, in their hostile incursions from Canada, used to approach the eastern frontier settlements of Massachu- setts and New-Hampshire. Beyond, are the Ktardin Hills, near the extremity of Maine. J^orthf the country is more wild and uncultivated ; and the Umbagog Lake is seen, from which flows the Androscoggin. West, the nearer view is over a mountainous region^ covered with a thick forest, through which only an oc- casional opening is perceived, formed by the farms (or clearings) oi the hardy inhabitants. Beyond, the hills are seen to rise from the oppc^ite shore of Con- necticut River, the surface of which is every where hidden from view, and the summits, rising higher and higher, terminate in the ridges of the Green Mountains in Vermont. South-westerly is seen the Grand Monadnock. The Indians knew the White Mountains by the name of Agiocochook, and regarded them as inac- cessible, or at least represented them so to white men. Thb Lake of the Clouds is a little pond, near the summit of Mount Monroe, of beautiful clear water; and supplife the head stream of ,^6U THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. the Ammonoosuc River. This little current imme' diately ^begins its descent, and dashes in a headlong course of several thousand feet, into the valley near the encampment. Geology. Loose fragments of granite are every where scattered over the mountain, with some speci- mens of gneiss. The granite is generally gray, and at first fine-grained, but grows coarser as we ascend, and is occasionally sprinkled with small garnets. At the summit it frequently contains a little black tour- maline, sometimes in crossing crystals. On the sum- mit, also, some of the granite is tinged with red, al- though much of it is coloured bright green by lichens, dampened by the humidity of the clouds, and inter- spersed with thick and soft gray moss. The grain of the coarse granite is elongated ; and what strikes the visiter as very singular is, that not a single rock is to be found in its original place — every thing bears the mark of removal ; and this, taken into view with the precipice on the northern side, seems to indicate that the summit of the mountain has fallen down and disap- peared. The general belief now seems to be, that the lofty peak above us is the highest elevation in North Ame- rica, except Mexico and some of the Rocky Moun- tains. The inhospitable nature of the climate is such as to forbid all hopes of future improvement ; so that the feeling of sublimity, produced by the lonely and desolate character of this desert region, is increased by the rejection, that it is destined to be a wilderness for ever. The only places susceptible qf cultivation in the heart of the mountains, are the little m*^adows inha- bited by the Crawfords, the Notch, and Willey Mea- dows ; and there the interval of warm weather is so short in the year, that few vegetables can arrive at maturity, with all the rapidity of growth which distin- guishes such cold regions. To those who are fond of field sports, the forests and ] sumir wild besid( buffali and ji ingre as the sippi. are ki boldly house, bear ai places man. of the ( Mounta scarce i The mounta cinity o almost V still at c tion of tion of t and it u During only the the Note a strong The vested . only wh( the day sometime of the m( Roads, River ; I ^0 Lanci K0A1)!«. 36 J and livers aftord eveiy advantage, during the brief summer which visits the valleys. Various kinds of wild birds and game are to be found in the woods, besides bears, wild cats, and deer. The nuiose and buffalo were formerly abundant amon? the mountains ; and it is scarcely thirty years since they were killed in great numbers, merely for their hides and tallow ; as the latter still are in the deserts beyond the Missis- sippi. Deer are common in the woods, and frequently are killed by the hunter^. Sometimes they come boldly down into the little meadow before Crawford's house, and quietly eraze with the cattle. The black bear are occasionally seen in the more unfrequented places ; but they will always endeavour to avoid a man. A large species of elk, here known by the name of the Caritm, nas made its appearance in the White Mountains within a few years ; out they are still very scarce in this part of the country. The weather is liable to frequent changes in the mountainous region, which is partly owing to the vi- cinity of the Notchi through which the wind blows, almost without ceasinjg^, even when the air is perfectly still at only a short distance from it. From the situa- tion of the mountains, it is impossible that the direc- tion of the v/ind should vary materially in the valley ; and it is therefore, of course, always north or south. During the winter it is often very violent, so that not only the snow is prevented from lying on the path at the Notch, but the surface ;s swept of every thing that a strong wind can remove. The summits of the mountains are frequently in- vested with mist, when the sky is clear ; and those only who inhabit the vicinity are able to tell whether the day is to be favourable for the ascent. The mists sometimes collect in the valleys, and then present some of the most singular and beautiful appearances. Roads. There are two roads hence to Connecticut River ; one over Cherry Mountain (very laborious) ■to Lancaster ; the other, shorter, through Breton Hh2 .:I62 BOUTE FROM BOSTON TO MAIM;. Woods, Bethlehem, and Littleton, (rough and stony) lu Bath, 34 miles. [See Index.] ROUTE FROM BOSTON TO MAINE. A line of Steam Navigation was commenced in 1823, between Boston and Portland and Bath ; and ex- tended in 1821, about 250 miles from Bath to Eastport in one direction, and about 40 miles to Augusta in an- other ; and in 1825, again about 70 miles from Eastport to St. John's, in New-Brunswick, by proprietors resid- ing at Eastport ; and from St. John's up the River St. Jonn's about 80 miles to Frederi ktown, by proprietors residing at St. John's ; and in another direction by the Eastport proprietors, from Eastport about 30 miles on the Schoodic to St. Andrew's and Calais. Two boats were afterward put upon a line from Eastport '^ An- napolis and Windsor, m Nova Scolia. Another >t is run from Eastport to Dennisville, a distance c* ^^ or 30 miles. The line before occupied, including all its collateral branches and ramifications, exceeds 500 miles, and is now about 700 miles. It is proposed in Boston, to enlarge the canal across Cape Ann, to admit the steamboats, which will save 15 miles, and give an opportunity to communicate, di- rectly or by smaller boats, with Gloucester, Newbu- ryport, Portsmouth, Dover, and Kennebunk. The boats go about 100 miles a day, and pass so near the shore as to afford many interest ng views of the numerous islands, points, and bays, which abound along the coast. In 1826, the steamboat was burned on this line. The price was, from Boston to Portland, $5 ; thence to Eastport, $6, with a deduction for forward passengers. (The arrangements for 1830 not known.) There are coaches going to Salem every hour in the morning and forenoon ; and it may, perhaps, be conve- nient to take a seat in one of them, as Salem is well worthy of at least a day's delay. Indeed, if con- venient, the stranger will be gratified with several rides blehc Th bers c most with i in this manuf opera t hands per w celebra The made, ionable ing an water, where ago. Ther coaches The mgj bu is a tow] to form i we pass, eminence as it is tl lor that < JiEVERLV. 3{J3 ndes ill the vicinity of that place, particularly toMar- blehead. Lynn, 9 miles from Boston. This town is devoted to makino: shoes; great num- bers of which are annually exported. Eacn house, al- most without exception, has a little shop connected with it, in which the men and boys employ themselves in this manufacture. There are in Lynn from 70 to 80 manufacturers of shoes, and probably not far from 1500 operatives. Some of the manufacturers employ 50 hands each, and one is said to manufacture 1200 pair per week. This, if we allow 12 working hours a days, gives one pair of shoes about every 3 minutes. There is a mineral spring in this town, which was celebrated many years ago. The Lynn Beach, of which mention has before been made, is in this town, and lies on the way to the fash- ionable retreat at Nahant. It is of hard sand, offer- ing an excellent natural road, but is impassable at high water. The bay on which it looks is one of the places where the famous sea serpent was seen several years ago. There is a good inn in the town where the stage coaches stop. The country beyond is rather hilly and uninterest- ing ; but the road is good. Bevebly is a town which joins Salem so closely, as apparently to form a part of it. It has a long street through -which we pass, nearly at the foot of a hi^h, barren hill. This eminence is remarkable in the history of witchcraft ; as it is the spot where numerous persons, condemned for that crime, in Salem, were executed. y>r>'\ MDI Ti: 1 KOM UW.SiO^ TO MAINK. SALEM. The Lafayette Hotel. This is one of the nost populous, wealthy, and beau- tiful towns in Nev-K inland It was one of the ear- liest settlements made in Mass:?chusetts Bay ; and the planting* of the colony is anijually celebrated. Go- vernor End icott, one of the most distinguished indi- viduals in the early histoiy of this part ot the country^ resided here. The place was 6rst settled in 1626. Salem was for many years enpeed in an extensive and lucrative commerce, particularly with China ; and the appearance of the town is sumcient to show that it stilt contains a great deal of wealth. The harbour is dne, and the wharves still ^^ell supplied with stores ; but the trade of the place has materially diminished. The sti-eets are generally too narrow ; but the banks, insurance offices, and churches are many of them handsorr.2 buildings. The Square is a large and beau- tiful tract of ground, near the centre of the town. About it are seen many of the finest private buildings in the place, which, indeed, may be compared for size and elegance with those in any part of the United States. There is a High School in Salem, besides 18 public and 58 private schools. In 1828, the public schools contained about 600 boys and 300 ^irls. The Marine Museum is an institution highly cre- ditable to the town, being an association of respect- able nautical and commercial individuals, formea for the purpose of making useful observations, and col- lecting curiosities from all quarters of the world. No one can become a member who has not doubled Cape Horn, or the Cape of Good Hope, either as master or supercargo of a vessel ; and each of them is supplied with a journal, in which he is to note down sucn re- marks as he thinks important, during his voyages. ^XARfiLEII£AD. 365 These are submitted to the inspection of a committee ; and the curiosities brought home are deposited in a handsome building belonging to the society, which is well worthy the particular attention of strangers. Access is readily gained by application to any of the members: this extensive and highly interesting cabi- net being closed only for the purpose of security, and no fee being required for admission. The room is large, well lighted, and tilled with curiosities from all quarters of the world, and many specimens belong- ing t« all the branches of natural history. The ar« ran^ement is made with great taste, and several hours, or mdeed days, will hardly be sufficient for an exa- mination of all it contains. The following lines were written after a visit to this interesting institution, by Beltrami, a distinguished scientific traveller, in the year 1827 : "Siste Viator! Siste, uiirari ! est Orbis in urbe, "Et praBbet pulchrum cuncta miranda Salem. — ^'Obstupui, hie Superum, hinc hominum prodigia vidi, " Pontus, Magna Parens, Ignis et Ipse favent.— ^ Oh, America : Oh, felix tellus, populusque beatus ! " Qjiiam nobis tollunt dant tibi fata vicem. — The top of the hoiel commands a fine and exten- sive view over the town and its environs, with the harbour, and the fine coves which set up on both sides. A Mill Dam Company has been incorporated, to en- close a tract of water near this tow;\ to obtain power for mills, on th? plan of the Boston and Roxbury mill dam* The receiving basin is to be about 70 acres, and (he power equal to 40 mills. Mardlehead. There is a good road to this town, which stands at the end of a rocky promontory, 4 miles south-east from Salem. It contains a handsome square, and some very 366 ROUTK FKOM BOSTON TO >IAL\K. good houses ; but it is principally inhabited by fisher- men, whose manner of life precludes, in a great de- gree, the intellectual improvement generally so cha- racteristic of New-England. The harbour is a small bay, protected bv barren rocks, and affords shelter to the numerous fishing schooners employed in the cod fishery. The men and boys are absert from home a great part of the year ; as each ve sel usually makes three fishing voyages, or ^^fares,^ as they are here called, every season. Thev lit' on the banks until they have caught a load of nsh, which are opened and salted as soon as taken. The vessels then return, and the fish are spread to dry on wooden frames, called flakes ; great numbers of which will be seen on the shore. A few vessels still go to the Labrador coast lor fish. There is a fort at the extremity of the town, which commands the entrance to the harbour, and af- fords a view of many miles over the neighbouring sheets of water. The islands at the entrance of Sa- lem are wild and rocky ; and the sea breaks over them with violence in an easterly storm. Towards the south are seen several headlands of this iron-bound coast ; Which, for a great extent, even down to the extremity of Massacnusetts, must have appeared one of the most inhospitable to the pilgrims who began their settlements on this part of New-England. Newburyport. Stage House, or Merrimack Hotel, on the hill. This is a large, and, to a considerable extent, a regularly built town, 38 miles from Boston. The greater part of it lies in squares, and the best streets are built en- tirely of brick. What is commonly called Newbury- port, however, is composed of two distinct towns. The original township of Newbury includes that part which reaches to within about a quarter of a mile of the shore ; and the I'est, a mile along the water, where the wharves, the market building, most of the stores, .NinvmJKvi'oKT. J(;7 shops, Hcc. are found, is all which is, properly speak- ing, called Newburyport, although there is no division but an imaginary line. The Court House makes a handsome appearance, at the head of a street running to the river. The monument of the celebrated Whit^eld is to be seen in the First Presbyterian Church in this town, where his remains lie interred. The harbour is fine, and the place once enjoyed a brisk and lucrative commerce ; but it has suffered se- verely from two great fires, within a few years, and still more from circumstances which cut off the trade. A plan has been proposed for the improvement of the navigation of the Merrimack, which, if carried into effect, can hardly fail to produce results of |[reat im- portance to the place. The falls at Haverhill cut off the boat navigation, at the distance of about 12 miles ; but if these were avoided by a canal, the water com- munication would be opened to Concord, and a great part of the products now sent to Boston, by the Mid- dlesex Canal, would come to Newburyport. It is es- timated, that the work woulc jst about two hundred thousand dollars. Stage Coaches, The mail coacii h' >m Boston foi Portland arrives at 7 A. M. and returns about 2 P. M. There is also an Accommodation Line, which travels only by daylight. The Concord coach leaves Leic about noon. The late Timothy Dexter's house is now a i.jvern, about half a mile from the stage house on the road to Portsmouth. The garden was form.erly curiously or- namented with wooden statues of distinguished a viduals. Mackerel Fishery. It was estimated, in 1829, that 92 vessels were employed in the mackerel fishery, with a tonnage of 4,432 tons, and about 740 men, seven months and a h?lf each year. The bridge over the Merrimack is a most beautiful structure, ft?? lengrth is lOOO feet ; and. it has ionv !i ROUTE FROM DOSTON TO MJilNki. arches and a draw-bridge, on the side towards tlie town. The arches are supported by twelve chains, carried over four towers in tne form of pyramids, 31 feet above high water mark. The bases of these towers are of hewn stone, 40 by 30 feet built on tim- ber, each with a breakwater up the stream. The chains, separately, are strong enough to bear 22 tons. The bridge, with the road to Newburyport, cost $66,000. Hampton, 10 miles. At Hampton Beach is a good hotel, which commands an agreeable view upon the ocean, and the shore about the Boards Head. Portsmouth, 62 miles from Boston, 58 ^rom Portland. ^ Brown's Stage House. The environs of the town show many neat and pleasant houses of wood ; and the middle part of it is principally of brick, with some handsome public buildings, although the streets are generally too nar- row. It has been a place of much commerce. The old church is a specimen of old times. The Navy Yard, on an island opposite the town, contains two lai^e ship buildings, one for frigates and the other for line-of-battle ships. The bridge across (he Piscataqua, leads into the state of Maine, which was, until within a few years, a district of Massachusetts. The current is very strong. The navy yard is seen on the east, with the ship houses, &c. 13 ships of war have been built in this port since 1690. The Santee, 74, and Ala- bama, 74, are on the stocks. [AmeF,bury is a manufacturing place on the Powow River, 3 miles from Newburypt* ^ The river is made to drain several ponds by an arched tunnel dug: through a hill about a century igo. There is a Nai' THE KUBBLE. 369 Factory he\e, originally built by the famous me- chanist Jacob Perkins. A Rolling and Slitting Mill is adjoining. Extensive Anchor Works, now standing still, are on the same dam. ' The Broadcloth Factory, supplied with water by a dam below, is also not in operation. The Salisbury Flannel Factory has 2500 spmdles, employs 80 hands, and makes 100 pieces of flannel weekly. They have built a much larger one at the upper falls. The AfMshury Flannel Factory h^v^ a building 40 feet by 130, 4 stories high, with 6000 spindles, 180 workmen, and makes 200 pieces a week. Houses for dying, bleaching, and fulling are on the whitrf. There is also a machine shop. Men receive %\, and women 50 cts. a day. ' ' "Y * The building is 200 feet long, 50 wide, 5 stories high, and will contain 10,000 spindles, and make 400 pieces in a week. All the Flannel Works in full ope- ration will make 35,000 pieces of flannel in a year, ajid eniploy about 1000 hands. ' ' ' " ■•■^-^^H'lAysmim^ There are several other mills and factories ; though the whole ground occupied is only 40 rods.] The country on this road is of a gently rolling form, generally very poor, without trees, and changing only from sand to rocks ; and affords very few objects of interest, except an occasional view of the seashore, and several spots remarkable for their connexion with the history of the country. York. There are so ne pleasant fields about this little place, but its size is insigniticant, particularly when contrasted with the anticipations formed of its destiny at the time of its first settlement ; for the ground was laid out for a city, and the divisions of the land still retain much of the regular form given it by the first surveyors. The Nubble is a rocky point, 4i miles from York, with a cluster of miserable huts in the rear, called, in derision, the city, or metropolis of Cape Neddock, from a point of that name still further on. ^ U liOli'fJJ IN MA1]\£. • While travelling along this dreaij country, near the place where a round hill of a pecunar appearance first presents itself in front, and then the ocean, the road passes the site of an old fort or blockhouse, built be- fore Philip's war. Nothing is now to be seen of it from the road, excepting a part of the old wall, which is built of large stones, laid with greater regularity than is practised now. A hovel stands near tne wall, shaded by a few trees, about 100 yards west of the road. The Agamenticus Mills form a range some distance west. Lower Welles. There is a little harbour here, de- fended by a sand bar, with a narrow entrance under a rock : but it is almost dry at low water. Welles* The sea often breaks beautifully on the beach, in front of the tavern. Porpoise point is just distinguished in the north-east ; and the view of the sea is fine and refreshing. Three miles beyond is Breakneck Hill, over which £aills a small stream, from the height of 30 feet, about 40 yards from the path. Here, says a blind tradition, a small tribe of Indians met an indiscriminate destruc- tion, in the following manner. Being on their return from their annual fishing excursion on the upper part of the stream, they despatched some of their number to make a fire on the rock which divides the falls, as thev found they should not reach this place before night. The white men in the neighbourhood, by some means learning their design, shot the messengers, and then collecting the limbs of trees, made a great fire on the hi^h bank below on the opposite 'side of the road. The Indians, says the story, oeing deceived, did not attempt to stop their canoes in season, and were all carried over the falls and killed. A similar tale is re- lated, with more appearance of credibility, of the falls on the Androscoggm River. The Fort waslialf a mile beyond, or a quarter of a inUe north from the church. The site is distinguished PORTLAND. o 1 1 by the angle of an old wall, built of lar^e, regular, but unhewn stones, on the east side of the road. The marks of the foundation appear to be yet visible a little back, and the situation is very pleasant, with a smooth plain around it, and a gentle slope in the rear to a little meadow, where the settlers used to obtain their hay. The ocean is in full view below. This little fortress was once attacked by 500 Indians, who at first sup- Eosed, as was the fact, that the men were absent from ome. The place was, however, very bravely and successfully defended by five women, who put on their husbands' clothes, and nred so warmly upon their in- vaders, as to force them to retreat. Kennebunkf 25 miles from Portland. Here the mail coach from Portland stops for breakfast. It is a small place, but once carried on a considerable lumber trade with the West Indies. SacOf fifteen miles from Portland. Just south of this village is the mouth of the Saco, which rises on Mount Washington. Cutt's Island of 75 acres divides the stream, just at the falls, and has been converted to ma- nufacturing purposes. The first mawufactoij erected by the company was intended for 1,300 spmdles and 360 Iboms. It was destroyed by fire in 1830 : loss estimated at J|300,000. The soil here is very rocky, easily furnishing mate- rials for building, which has lately commenced on a large scale. The fail is about tnirty feet, the water abundant at all seasons, and there is a landing place for vesselsonly a few yards distant, which might greatly fa- vour the transportation of raw and manufactured articles. The land bought in 1825 on the island with a portion of the water power, cost about J[ 1 00,000. Great quan- tities of timber have long been sawn at these falls. PORTLAND, 15 miles. Mitchell's Hotel. The Sta^e House. The situation of this place js remarkably fine, occu- jioiTE IN maim:. pying; the ridge and side of a high point of land with a handsome, though shallow bay, on one side, and the harbour on the other. The anchorage is protected on every side by land, the water is deep, and the com- munication with the sea direct and convenient. Con- gress-street runs along the ridge of the hill, and con- tains a number of very elegant private houses. There is also the Town Hall, with the Market below, the Custom-House, and a beautiful new church, with gra- nite columns. The steps are fine blocks of granite, 6 feet by 9, brought from the quarry at Brunswick, 22 miles distant, and cost about $40 each. This street rises, as it approaches the end of the neck, or promon- tory, to the ObservcUory, a tower 82 feet high, and, with its base, 142 feet above the water, commanding an ex- tensive and very fine view on every side. From the Observatory, south and south-west are several distant eminences : among others, the Agamen- ticus Hills ; north-west are seen, in clear weather, the lofty ridges and peaks of the White Hills in New- Hampshire, which are discovered at sea, often before the nearer land appears in sight. The country on the north presents little that is interesting, and the water nearer at hand is only an inlet of the sea. Cape Elizabeth is the highland on the south side of the harbour ; and the islands, which nearly close its entrance, are called Bang's and House Islands. Fort Preble stands on the former, and Fort Scammel, only a blockhouse, on the latter. It is proposed by the United States to expend j|ll65,000 in enlarging these defences. Due east is oeguin Lighthouse, which is visible in clear weather, 32 miles distant, at the mouth of the Kennebec. Nearer, and in the same quarter, lie numerous islands of various forms, and divided by little channels and bays, some of which are deep. They are generally covered with trees and rocks, but present a beautiful variety to the view in that direc- tion. Their number is not known, but is usually esti- mated at 365, to correspond with that of the days in the year. PORTLAND. J7:i rhe iiUicnchmenls on the hill^ west ot the Observa- tory, belong to Fort Sumner, and part of them were made in the Revolutionary war. Under the bluff, on the water^s edge, is Fort Burroughs. ,i . :/,,»/ Falmouth (the former name of rortland) was burnt 'in the Revolutionary war by Capt. Mowatt, in the British sloop of war Canceau, on the 18th of October, 1775, on the refusal of the inhabitants to deliver up their arms. About 130 houses, three-quarters of all the place contained, were consumed, some being set on nre with brands, after a cannonade and bombard- ment of 9 hours. The old church is among the build- ings saved, and has the mark of a cannon shot in it. A small part of Mitcheirs hotel belonged to one of the houses not destroyed. , . j i; k&hwj There are some fine stores and dwelling-nouses in the middle of the town, and the shore is lined with wharves and shipping : for the place is beginning to prosper again, althoui^h it has lost an extensive trade which it cannot recover. There is a small Museum in the place. At the Athenaeum will be found newg- gapers from different parts of the countiy, a library, ;c. In 1827 there were 10 primary schools here, con- taining 1095 pupils. Four of the schools were on the monitorial plan. There is a Female Orphan Asylum recently established here. Remarks to the Traveller at Portland. The Boston Mail Coach leaves here every morning at 4, and reaches Boston at 9 P. M.; the Accommodation at 8, and arrives next day, stopping for the night at Ports- mouth.* ! '♦ The following prices were charged in the steamboats, between different placoH, in 1828. From Boston to Augueta, forward cabin $4, after do. 96 From Boston to Bntli, do. 3, do. 5 ' ' ' From Boston to Portland, do. 3,50 do. 4 < From Portland to Hallowell and Augusta, 2 35 From Portland to Batti, 100 ^ From Batii to Richmond, 50 > From Bath to Gardiner, 100 .7 From Bath to Hallowell and Augusta, 125 I i2 ;t7'i UOiriJ IN IIALVI.. The communication with Doviir, Concord, AiC. is tRBsy, anrl tho traveller (icoing in thnt direction is rr- ferred to the Index for tho.su and other oinces in his way. He may take the roule to the While Hills by Fiyehurpfh ; the road lends Ihroiigh a wild and thinly populated country, hut is not d<*void of interest. The atajfe coach reaches Conway in a d 'V by this route, passinf^ throup^h Gorham, Standish, nahfwin, Hiram, and Frychurp^h. The eastern and north-eastern routes only, remain ^0 be spoken of. The road alon^; the seacoast is more uninteresting, f)assing over a rockv soil, and is recom- mended in ffolnp: from Portlancl. The upper road leads through a considerable extent of* Certile countiy, indeed the garden of Maine, and shows several plea- sant and flourishing villages, by which it may be more agreeable to return. The settlement of a great part of that region, still, is so recent, that the traveller will not find so good accommod.it ions, nor so many objects of interest, as in many other parts of the U. States. The inhabitants, however, are mcreasing very rapidly, and great improvements of every kind are annually introduced, which produce a scene of great activity and prosperity, particularly between the Kennebec and renoDscot Rivers. Kenarks on the Country North-East prom Portland. In consequence of the position, the climate, and soil of Maine, the improvement of the country has been much retarded. Settlements were made on the coast as early as 1607, and several others not long afterward ; but they suffered s»^vcrely in the Indian wars, and their vicinity to the French missions, which embraced all the eastern part of the present state, exposed them to imminent danger. In later times the population was principally confined to the seacoast, for the conve- nience of fishing and commerce, and thus the good KKMAUkN (IN TllAW.LMNC LV >I,\1NK. 'Mh land, which lies Homc distanco back in the country, was nlmoHt entirely neglected. After the revolu- tionary war, this extennive region remained in the con- dition of a dintrict helonffinii^ to MassachuHettM. Within a fev years it hiH hecn rereiv»;d into the Union as a separate Ntate ; and ag'ricullure havinu: heen intro- duced, the emigration I'roni the nei^hnourin^ .stateH has rapidly swelled its population. In 1H28 there were iJ'J new^tpapers in the state of Mainf . In travellinp: in IVIaine, the Htrang:er observes the same order of things as in the interior of New-York, Ohio, and other parts of the country which are fast improvinf(. It is but a few years since agriculture was almost unknown here, and now thn interior re((ion between the Kenm-bec and Penobscot Rivers is well pec^pled, and presents a scene of rural cultivation and prosperity rarely equalled. That is of course the most attractive route for the traveller; and the road from Portland lies through Aueusta and llallowell. Those who are goinj? to Ncw-Brnnswick, &c. are advised to take this route, unless they prefer the less fatiguing mode of travelling in the steamboat. Most persons going eastward from Portland, will wish to return ; and the brief tour vyhich we shall give will be planned for their convenience and plea- sure, by proceeding first along the seacoast, and then returning through the fine tract of country in the in- terior. It may be proper here to mention, that two roads have been projected to Quebec ; one by the River Kennebec, ancf the other by the Penobscot. At pre- sent there are no roads through the northern wilder- ness, though a communication has been kept up that way for several years, and herds of cattle are occa- sionally driven into Canada. The hardy and enter- prising traveller may, perhaps, be willing to encoun- ter the inconvenience of lodging in the open air, and such fare as the wilderness affords; but few will M 376 u^UTji: IN maim:. attempt the route for pleasure, until the intended im- provements shall have been made. For the distances of the principal places on the route; trom Portland to Qjuebec, see page 235, 236. Canals projectbd in Maine. From Sebago Pond to Portland, This would re- quire an excavation of only 6 miles to effect a commu- nication between a chain of jponds or lakes, capable of furnishing lai^e supplies of timber, and many products of ag;riculture, if settlements were once encouraged. From the Androscoggin at Wayne's Mills, to the Kennebec at Gardner. There is a dead water naviga- tion to within five miles of the former, but then there is an ascent of 260 feet to the level of its current. JlouTE FROM Portland to Belfast, Ca6tine, Bangor, &c. Travelling round to the head of Casco Bay, you pass through North Yarmouth and Freeport, and arrive at Brunswick, 26 miles. This is the site of Bowdoin College, the principal institution of the state. It was burnt a few years ago ; but has been rebuilt, and con- tains a good number of students. It is pleasantly situated on an elevated level. There is a fall on the Androscoggin river at this place ; below which booms are extended across to keep together the lumber which is brought down every season in great quantities. The whole road from Portland to Bath, 34 mites, lies along the coast, where the soil is rocky and poor. Bath is a town of considerable trade, situated on the Ken- nebec, at the distance of 16 miles from the sea. Here HOOTll HAY. :i77 me several public buildings, and amone the rest, two banks. If tne arrangements be now as neretofore, the steamboat will leave Bath every day, except Sunday, at noon, and arrives at Au'/usta the same evening, touching at Richmond, Gardiner, and Hallowell. fVoolwich is opposite Bath. WiSCASSET, ' 14 miles from Bath. This is one of the principal ports of the state, and has an excellent harbour, at the mouth of the Sheepscot River. Stage Coaches run north to Bangor, on the Penob- scot. They pass through Newcastle, Nobleborough, Waldoborougn, Union, Appleton, Searsmont, and Bel- mont. There are two branch lines : one to Thomas- town through Warren ; and another to Hamden, through Camden, Lincolnshire, Northport, Belfast, Swanville, and Frankfort. From Wiscasset to Damascotta is rough and rocky ; but the ride presents many interesting views, as the landscape is continually cnanging, and is often varied by the sight of Damascotta River, and several beauti- ful little fakes or ponds. Damascotta Bridge. Here is a considerable village, at the distance of 16 miles from the seacoast. m- Ire Booth Bay lies off the road from Wiscasset to Damascotta. It has a commodious harbour, with a number of islands in the vicinity ; and the neighbouring high srround affords a very fine and extensive view. The hill, on the eastern side of the bay, was surveyed for a city in the early part of the fast centurv, which was to have borne the name of Townsend, l)ut the building of it was never begun. The harbour has been con- sidered a ^ood site for a naval depot. Avtiquitieff. Two or three miles off the road, be- •378 ROUTE IN MAINE. twecn Linniken's Bay and Damascotta River, wherr* was formerly an Indian carrying-place, the remains of cellar wails and chimneys are found, as also broken kettles, wedges, &c. At the head of the bay are the hulks of two or three large vessels sunk in the water ; and on the shore, the ruins of an old grist-mill, where the present one stands. On the islands opposite the town, are other ruins^ the history of which is unknown, as well as that of those already mentioned. The only fact which seems to afford any clew to their origin, is, that Sir John Popham made an attempt to build a town at the mouth of the Kennebec, in the year 1607. Waldoborouoh, 10 miles. Warren, 7 miles. 'p. Thomastown, Central Village, 6 miles. Here are quarries of mar- ble and limestone, from the latter of which about 100,000 barrels of lime are made evenr year for ex- portation. The marble is also wrought in consider- able quantities. A visit to the woncshops may be interesting, as the operation of polishing is performed by machinery moved by water. There is a cotton manufactory on Mill River. The village is 15 miles from the sea. The State Prison stands in a commanding and plea- sant situation. It has 50 solitary cells, built of granite, in blocks from 4 to 6 feet in length, and 2 in thick- ness. Each cell has an opening at the top, with small holes in the v^alls for the admission of fresh air, which, during the winter season, is warmed before it is ad- mitted. The Warden's house is also built of granite, and is two stories high, placed in the middle, with a row of cells on each side. The prison yard is sur- rounded by a circular wooden paling, and encloses nearly three acres, in which is a lime quany. Sevt> fmffmmr^imm LIBEC. 3W rai workshops on the ground serve the purposes of the convicts, who are employed in burning lime and other manufactures. The Knox Estate, About half a mile from the State Prison is the ancient residence of the late General Knox. The mansion was three stories high, large, and elegant, particularly for a country so little cultivated and inhabited as this at the time of its erection. It is now in a state of great decay ; but some of the re- maining decorations of the grounds may give an idea of its original appearance. The approach to the house is through a cypress grove ; and in front of it extends a handsome grass-plat. General Knox was one of Washington's principal officers, and acted a conspicuous part in the revolutionaiy war and in the government. From Thomastown to Belfast, (30 miles,) the road is hard, and commands man^ views of Penobscot Bajr, with a few islands on the right, and a partially culti- vated country on the left, with some mountainous scenes. Beltast is a flourishing port, pleasantly situ- ated on the side of a hill. The road hence to dastine, round the bay, is 35 miles, passing through Prospect, Buckport, Orland, and Penobscot. Cacdne was taken during the late war by a fleet, and the British intrenchments are to be seen on the hill above. Eastport is important as the frontier post of the United States on the seacoast towards the British possessions. It is on the south-eastern part of Moose Island, in Passamaquoddy Bay, and connected with the mainland by a bridge. The spot was almost un- inhabited 30 years ago ; but now it contains three places of worship. There are fortifications and a few troops. A line of steamboats is established between this place and Boston, touching at Portland, &c. Luhec is situated near the entrance of the Bay, op- posite Campobello. v3 .. y 380 ROUTE tS MAINE. s=j I ) ^ ' Perryt the village of the Passamaquoddy Indian lies northward from Eastport. On the Schoodic River the land is high, and the scenes striking. Robbinston stands at its mouth ; and Calais 12 miles above, at the head of navigation. The country north and west of this place is said to be very valuable for grazing, being undulating, with a good soil and climate, and at present well wooded, with conveniences for transportation by sea. The road from Belfast to Bangor lies along the course of the Penobscot River. Bangor ■'U '»,IJj.v ■Vi'' is a very flourishing village, newly risen into impor- tance, in consequence of having taken a good deal of the interior trade from Belfast. It occupies a com- manding position for this object, and is undoubtedly destined to experience a great and rapid increase, proportioned to the extension of settlements in the upper country. The number of inhabitants increased between 1820 and 1825, from 122i to 2002. The scenery here begins to assume much of that mountain- ous character, which prevails so extensively through a large part of the interior. A very conspicuous and noble eminence is observed at a distance in the north, called Ktardin Mountain, the elevation of which has never, it is believed, been accurately ascertained. It is considered the highest land in the state, and has been compared for altitude with Mount Washington in New-Hampshire : whether with justice or not, a scien- tific measurement will determine. In the year 1825 the land agents visited a tract of country inhabited by about two thousand persons, who had been before unknown as belonging to the state, having never been represented in the legislature, or incluoed in any census. They are partfy descend- ants of refugees, and partly half-pay officers, Irish and Scotch. The vast tract of wilderness intervening he.- i»£GIP8C0T FALLS. 381 tween them and the lower country had prevented in- tercourse. Their country is rich and beautiful, on the St. John's River, near the boundary of N. Brunswick ; and many of them desired to be received into the jurisdiction of the State Government. The question nas already caused much excitement. The ope i ling of a road along the course of the Pe- nobscot to Q,uebec, by the va^ of St. John's, the sur- vey of which bas been authorized, for which the state have appropriated $5000, on condition that Massa- chusetts will do as much, cannot fail to accelerate the settlement of this country, and to increase the value and the products of the soil. It will also prove here- after a very convenient route for travellers goin^ to and from Canada, and doubtless form a part oi the grand northern tour, which will then be complete. Steamboats will be placed on the route from Bos- ton to the Kennebec. From Bangor we begin our return to Portland, taking the route through the finest part of the state of Maine. The road to Augusta and Hallowell on the Kennebec, lies through a region rapidly improving under the management of an active, industrious, and increasing population. The value of the soil has greatly advanced within a short time, and it is the grand centre of emigration. There is another road to Hallowell through Bath. Coaches travel each way three times a week. Augusta is a considerable town and very flourishing. It is situated at the falls of the Kennebec, where the water on the descent of the channel is sutlicient to set in moiion several hundred wheels, and will probably be hereafter extensively employed for manufacturing purposes. At the mouth of this river at Georgetown, beryls have been found, in a ridge of granite countiy. Some are 15 inches long and 6 thick. They are associated with schorl. , Pegipscot Falls. Near Lewistown, on the Andre- M .ii 382 ROUTE IN MAIMK. ! ( scogein River, is a remarkable cataract, where the cur^ rent breaks through a range of mountains, and pours over a broken ledge of rocks. The scene is wild and striking, and derives an additional interest from its connexion with the histor}' of a tribe of Indians long since extinct. According to a tradition current in the neighbour- hood, the upper parts of this stream were formerly the residence of the Rockmego Indians, who inhabited a fine and fertile plain through which the river winds. The situation was remote, and they had never en- gaged in any hostilities with the whiles, but devoted themselves to hunting and rishing. The ground still contains many remains of their weapons, utensils, &c. They were, however, at length persuaded to engage in a Hostile incursion against Brunswick, at that time an exposed frontier settlement ; and the whole tribe embarked in their canoes to accomplish the enter- prise. The stream flows gently on tor a ^reat dis- tance, until it approaches very near to the falls ; and this was the spot appointed for the night encampment. Night set in before their arrival ; and they sent two men forward to make fires upon the banks a little above the cataract. For some unknown reason the fires were kindled below the falls ; and the Indians, being thus deceived concerning their situation, did not brin^ up their canoes to the shore in season, and were carried over the rocks, and the tribe all destroyed toge- ther. Their bodies, it is said, were carried by the stream down to the village they had intended to at- tack. The hills near the falls afford many evidences of having been the residence ol Indians, who were cut off by the whites, in a sudden attack, many years ago. OITY OP WASHINGTON. 38.S f t WASHINGTON. Gadshy's Hotel, Pennsylvania Jivenue. — Numerous hotels ana boardings-houses also offer handsome accom- modations, particularly during the sessions of Con- gress. The seat of Government of the United States is situated between the Potomac River and its eastern branch, about a mile and a half above their junction. It is divided into three omthe bouse, and near the brow of the precipitous shore. It is small, unadorned, and neglected. The great nfen, who had rendered to his country the most important military and civil services she ever received, iett his mortal remains to be deposited in this humble cemetery; and that country has never yet expressed its gratitude by erecting a monutnent to his memory, though to her he devoted his life, and to her he has bequeathed a character, on which no attempt has ever yet been made to discover a shadow or to fix a slain. It has been recently proposed to remove these venerated re- mains to the (>apitol at Washington. CITY 4)1' JJALTIMOKE. ^B^♦ [The Virginia Springs. These sprin|(s are the resort of numerous travellers every year, and present the combined attractions of heahhtuhiess, fine scenery, company, &c. From Lynchburgh, in Virginia, tne first day's ride brings the traveller in sight of the noble Peaks of Otter; — the next day brings him to the Natural Bridge, and the canal through the Blue Ridge — in a few days he can visit the Sweet Springs, the White Sulphur, Salt Sulphur (for consumptive patients), the Hot Springs, and the Warm Springs (^the latter celebrated for its bath, and the prospect which the Warm Spring Rock displays). On his way to Staunton, he passes the Blowing cave — on the first day from Staunton, he reaches Weyer's cave, one of the most astonishing works of subterranean Nature in the world — going up the Valley, he will visit at Harper's Ferry the cele- brated j unction of the Shenandoah and Potomac. The country, through which some of this road conducts him, is not only remarkable for the beauty of the pic- turesque, but the fertility of its soil. The grass lands are uncommonly beautiful.] BALTIMORE. Barnum's City Hotel, an elegant building near the Washington Monument, was completed in 1827. ft is one of the largest and most commodious public bouses in the country. It extends about 100 feet on Market-street, and 223 feet on Hanover-street. On the former opens the entrance to the private apartments, for families, &c. 7^16 Indian Queen Hotel — and others. Baltimore is the third city, for size, in the United States, and carries on an extensive commerce. Various prpjects have been made for improving the coinmuni> 390 CITY OF BALTIMORE. [ ) cation with the interior, which is now limited. The counie of the Susquehannah has been surveyed, with the intention of making it more useful in the trans- porcation of merchanoise. The current is now so swift and broken in many places, as to render the pas- sage often difficult and hazardous ; and it is honed that great improvements may hereafter be effected by locks •and canals. If this were once perl'ormed, and a rail- road made from the river to Baltimore, the city would doubtless derive great advantage from the internal trade. The harbour of Baltimore,, in the Patapsco River, has a narrow entrance, and is well protected by high ground. On the side opposite the city is an abrupt elevation of considerable size, where is a fort, and whence a commandinisr view is enjoyed. Baltimore is the greatest flour-market in the U. States. reWs Point is a part of the city, about a mile below, where most of the stores and shipping are found. Many of the streets of Baltimore are broad, cross at right angles, and are ornamensted with fine buildings both public and private. The Exchange is a very sr.»acious brick building, erected within a few years. The Commercial Reading Rooms are the resort of merchants. The Athenaeum is a spacious structure. The Washington Monument, This is a large column of marble, placed in a commanding position, in Howard's Pailc, at the bead of Charles-street, rising to the height of 163 feet. It is 14 feet in diameter at the top and 20 below, with a base 23 feet in height, and 60 square. It is one of the finest inonuments in the United States, and the only one worthy the me- mory of the :^r€at man to whom it is erected. The statue of Washini^^ton was raised and placed upon the toj) in Noven>ber 1829. It is 15 feet high ; so that the height of the top of the statue from the ground is 176 feet ; and from the tide level 276. The situation is I'ery advantageous ; being at the intersection of four. 'lilM m. BATTLE OF BALTIMORE. oyi fatreets, and so elevated as to be conspicuous from eveiy direction. The area around it, tor a circumference of 350 feet, is to be railed in with iron, and planted with shrubbery. The states are to be represented by de- vices around the base ; and inscriptions are to be added to record the deeds of the Father of our country. The Battle Monument was recently erected in me- mory of those who fell in the defence of the city in September, 1814. At the corner of Front and Pitt streets is a shot tower, 234 feet in height, wiiich is a conspicuous object from a distance. The Public Fountain is a fine spring of water in the western part of the city, surrounded by a public square, laid out in walks and shaded with trees. It is ornamented with a neat little building of hewn stone, and furnished with handsome steps. To pre- serve order at this place in warm weather, when it is usually much resorted to, it is the custom to take the right m descending and retiring. The environs of Baltimore afford some pleasant rides ; and the communication \\\\h different places is easy, by various modes of conv< yance. The most agreeable way of travelling to Philadelphia is by the steamboat lines, which go and arrive daily, with but a short distance of land carriage. Steamboats also go to Norfolk, in Virginia, but the passage is uninteresting ; and those who wish to see Washington (38 miles dis- tant] will go by land. Tne Mount Hope Institution is a school for youth, beautifully situated in the environs. St. Mary's Col- lege is a Catholic institution. Battle of Baltimore. — This battle took place at Lon^ Point in September, 1814. Nearly 40 sail of British vessels, comprising several ships of the line, arrived at the mouth of the Patapsco, and on the 12th landed between 7000 and 8000 men on Long Point, at the distance of 14 miles from the city. Sixteen bomb i'li ■t"^.Tw^-:j^ww»>iffsiwPw*a;pp ;^^^-:iti3^SS^ 392 CITY OP BALTIMORE. vessels in the mean time went up the river, and an- chored about 2i miles from Fort M*Henry. Gen. Smith hau sent Gen. Strieker with a part of his bri- gade, on the road to North Point ; and Maj. Randal, with some Baltimore and Pennsylvania volunteersj went to Bear Creek, to co-operate with him. Gen. Strieker took position at the two roads leading to North Point, his right on Bear Creek and his \e(t on a marsh. An advance met the enemy, and after a skir- mish returned, when they advanced and joined in a general battle. After an hour and twenty minutes, the 61st regt. gave way, and Gen. Strieker retired to his reserve, whither the enemy did not follow, and then to the left of Gen. Smith, and took post half a mile in ad^anco of his intrenchments. He lost about 150 killed and wounded, in this action, in which the citi- zens cf Baltimore distinguished themselves. The British loss was computed at 600 or 700 ; and among them their commander, Gen. Ross. T^-3 bomb vessels which attacked Fort M*Henry were unsuccessful, being met with a manly resistance ; and the troops re-embarked and relinquished the enter- prise. Fort Erie is dismantled and partly blown up, in the state in which it was left by our troops in 1814. The Baltimore and Ohio Railroad. Onr; of the principal objects that will attract the attention of the traveller who spends a little time in Baltimore, is the great railroad, commenced undei such flattering prospects, to connect the city with the Ohio river. Cars with sails sometimes go at the rate of 25 miles an hour, and can move withinTour points of the wind. About twelve miles of it were completed in 1829; and various cars are in operation upon it, some moved by steam, and some by wind. The . aute from Baltimore to the Potomac, 60 miles, will have but 3 single summit, requiring stationary power : and iiALTlMUKJ:: A^D OlfiO SAILUOAD. 39a . the even the route up the Potomac valley, to the coal * mines in Alleghany county, without another — in all, a distance of 180 miles — a thing unprecedented in Eu- rope. The work will be executed to CUicott's milb early in 1830. The stranger will tind a passage of a few miles very novel and interesting. . h The Carrollton Viaduct, which crosses Gwynn's Falls, about a mile from the r'^yv4U a fnte specimen of mason work, and is said to be unequalled in the United States, for strength, size, and beauty. It is 312 feet long, 63 feet 9 inches high, and 26 feet 6 inches wide on the travelled part. The great granite arch of 80 feet span, springs from abutments 20 feet in thickness, and 14 feet above the water. The key of the arch is 47 feet above the water. The arcn stones are all of dressed granite ; the number of layers of stone is 87, many of the stones weighing two tons ; and the parapets are coped with large slabs of granite. The Jackson Bridge is a single arch, 109 feet lon^, of entirely novel structure, the mvention of Col. Long, of the Company's board of engineers. The Deep Cut through a hi^h and broad ridge of Ian*!, is about three-tburths oi a mile in length, its greatest depth 70 feet, and its width, at the summit of' the ridge, 184 feet. Quantities of carbonizer! wood were found 60 feet beKw the natural surface, and the stump of a tree with its roots at 40 feet. Tiie entire excavation is 263,848 cubic yards. The Great Embankment at Gadsby's Bun five miles from Baltimore, is nt^arly a mile in length, its greatest elevation 56 feet, and its greatest width 191 feet. At the top the usual width of 26 tieet is preserved for a double set of rails. Gadsbyh Bun Viaduct affords a passage to the waters of the run through the embankment. The arch, composed of dressed granite blocks, is of the extra- ordinary width of 120 feet from opening to opening. The Patterson Viaduct is an immense structure of I;! t| r... Hi It "^nfffjipqiTipjiiiiil-iiiiniaii. i 0^4 CITY Olf' BALTIMOiii:. s^ranite^ by which the road is carried to the opposite bank of the Petapsco. It is built of granite blocks, from one to seven tons in weight, and its entire length is 375 feet. It has four beautitui arches, the two centre ones each a span of 55 feet, with extensive wings and water-walls, abutments, &c. The height from the water to the crown of the arches is 30 feet. The corner stone of this Structure was laid on the 6th of May last, and on the 4th of December it was crossed on horseback by Wm. Patterson, Esq. for whom the honour had been reserved, and whose name it bears. It embraces nearly 10,000 perches of masonry. Besides these are the embankment at Stilihouse Run, two granite viaducts, the rock side cutting at Buzzard's Rock, &c. &c. This is truly a great work ; worthy of the age, and highly creditable to the enterprise and public spirit of the company ; and from which the citizens of Bahi- more may very reasonably expect extensive and du- rable advantages. , In passing from the valley of Gwynn's falls to the Patapsco, the excavations and embankments have unavoidably been very great ; the deepest cut is 79 feet, and the highest embankment is 57 feet: the quantity of excavation between the city of Baltimore and the valley of the Patapsco, in a distance of seven miles, is 656,688 cubic yards. The embankments alon^ the same distance are i28,629 cubic yards, makmg together 1,284,187 cubic yards. The masonry on the section within the city, and on the first and second divisions of the road, is upwards of 56,000 perches of stone work, and is executed in a very superior style of workmanship. Along the valley of the Patapsco it has, in many places, been found necessary to conduct the road through extensive beds of hard granite or limestone, and at the Buzzard Rock the road has been carried through a solid mass of rock rising 58 lieet above it<^ surface. HALTIMOKE AIND VOKK IIAVKM RAILROAD. There were four routes orig:inally proposed from Baltimore to the valley of the Potomac. The aggjre- gate height of the adopted one is only 885 feet — much^ smaller than the others. The road to the valley of the Potomac, it is expected, will be completed bv the end of 1830. It will meet it at the Poini of nocks. A portion of 50 miles may after that period be com- pleted every year. The mcrease of business in Balti- more will therefore be rapid, and a large addition will be made every year to the attractions of travellers in that direction. The latest improvements have been obtained from England, in relation to the mode, materials, &Cm for constructing railroads, by Mr. Jonathan Knight, Civil Engineer, and Captain Wm. Gibbs M*Neill of the U. S. Topographical Engineers, with Lieut. Geoige W. Whistler of the United States' army, who were sent thither in November, 1388, and minutely examined every railroad of note or consequence in the United Kingdom. In the first part, the inclination of the road will be at the rate of 16,086 feet per mile, or 9.8 minutes of a degree, ascending from Baltimore towards Cumberland. Between Cumberland and the Ohio river, the probable transportation to that stream is estimated at one-half that of the transportation from it eastward; and the general inclination of the road at 8 feet and 12 hun- dredths per mile, or 5.29 minutes of a degree, ascend- ing towards the Ohio. A Railroad from Baltimore to 1 ?•' rlaven, on the Susquehannah, has been commenced bv the Legislature of Maryland, The distance is 60 miles ; and the esti inate for the railway is $7,600 per mile. The addi- tional expenses for making the bed, the sinuosities, &c. would be considerable : but it is believed that 8800,000 would be sufficient for the whole work. The greatest elevation between Baltimore and Conewago is 35 miles from the former ; and being be- tween 900 and 1000 fppt above tide water, ffives an 3% WILMINGTON. 'average rise of about 27 feet to a mile ; and the de- scent thence to Conewago corresponds. It has been . proposed to place 12 locomotive steam engines along this route 5 miles apart. The Susquehannah, above York Haven, has a fall of about 10 lent in a mile, and the banks are very favour- able to a railway. The Philadelphia and Susquehan- iiah Railroad will soon be connected with this. A railway to the Susquehannah which could transport to Baltimore for three cents a ton per mile, it is said, would lake all the business of the river. It was supposed that nearly 5^ millions worth of property went down this river in 1826, in spite of the difficulties and dangers of the navigation. It is not to be wondered at that the inhabitants of Philadelphia > and Baltimore should feel great solicitude to secure the trade. The sloop canal connecting ibis river with the Delaware is intended for fhe benefit of the former, as is the Union canal at Middletown, leading from the mouth of the Pennsylvania canal to the Schuylkill river. The Susquehannah has been greatly improved by various works in diflferent parts of its course, (which are nearly completed,) and will permit the passage of boats of fifty or sixty tons to Columbia. The state of Delaware has rendered the navigation below Columbia comparatively convenient, so that wheat has been for six or seven years, on m average, within 12^ or 15 cents a bushel of the price in Baltimore. For- merly it was 50 cents. In 1827, ^100,000 was sup- posed sufficient to make a safe navigation fivm the Swatara to Port Deposit. In 1828, howmcr, the Le- gislature of Pennsylvania forbade further improvements m that state. In 1827, 200,000 busliels of wheat went to Baltimore by this route. The bridge over the Gunpowder Creek, on the road, is remarkable as a fine structure, as the steep and elevated banks of that dark stream are for theii wild and romantic appearance. The span of the arch is 125 feet. Wilmins^ton^ Del The Wafer Works :\vft supplio!^ liOLTE TO OIHU. 39' lioin the Brandywine, by a steam engine and double forcing pump, on the principle of that at Fairmount, Philadelphia. The water-wheel is an overshot, 14 feet 6 inches in diameter ; and the water that turns it is pumped up. The ascent from the river to the upper basin is 99 feet ; and both the basins together, hold a million of s^ailons. On the Brandywine river, within four miles, there are no less than 42 water-wheels employed in the manufacture of gunpowder, cotton and woollen ^oods, flour, paper, in saw-mills, and in the preparation of barley, and other matters, and with ample room and water power, it is said, remaining, for at least fifty more. The Messrs. Duponts employ eighteen wheels, and manufacture 3000 pounds of gunpowder daily. The Brandywine Chalybeate luring (Stanley's Hotel) is five miles west oT the village, on elevated g?ouna, and offers some attractions. The old Swedish church, built in 1698, by the early inhabitants of this place, is still to be seen, surrounded by larire sycamores. It stands near the Christiana Creek, nearly opposite the site of the fir-t place of worship erected W^re by the Swedes. That spot is now marked only by a few tomb-stones. This town was settled by the companions of William Useling, )n 1631. OHIO. Although so far removed from the territory hereto- fore regarded as within the limits of the Northern 'traveller, this new and flourishing state has recently taken so high a rank in importance, enterprise, and numbers, that it will be visited by travellers of intelli- gence, disposed to witness the aspect of a country which has been the theatre of a most rapid improve- ment, and has already risen to the rank of the fourth state in the Union, in point of population. To such, a few brief remarks will not be entirely superfluous. 1.12 398 KOUTE TO OHIO. The following may be recommended as a general tour. First proceed to Wheeling ; down the Ohio river to Cincinnati ; across the country to Sandusky Bay by the western route in g(K)d stage coaches ; thence by steamboat to Detroit, and, if desired, onward to the western lakes. Keturnin^, by steam, land at Cleave- ]and, and make an excursion, on the canal (which, although about 350 miles lon&c, is not very interesting). Then take steamboat to Buffalo, whence the traveller may take what route he prefers. The mail, in summer, goes from New-York to Ohio by Philadelphia, in ten days, and by Buffalo and Lake £rie in Bve and a half. Only a few of the principal places on the tour will be noticed. In 1828, a steamboat of 110 tons went up the river to Oil Creek, within a few miles of Warren. , Pittsburgh* — The Pennsylvania canal, when com- pleted, wiN connect this town with Philadelphia, by a navigable communication. The works connecting the present canal with the river, the aqueduct across the river, &c., will be worthy of particular attention. This is more like a manufacturing town in England, than any other in the United States. It would surpass our limits to enumerate all the manufactories here. We can only remark that the greatest iron works in the western country are the Juniata Works in Pitts- burgh. They give employment to 55 persons, and make 26,000 weight of nails in a day, consuming 425 bushels of coal. In 1829, there were consumed in the different Foun- dries, Rolling Mills, and Steam Gngme Factories, in and about Pittsburgh, six thousand tons of blooms^ and five thousand tons of pig mstal. These articles are brought principally down the Monongahela and Alle- ghany rivers. There are nine Foundries, which use about 3,500 tons of pig metal, and employ about 225 hands. The Rolling Mills are eight in number, and are now "WWBI ZANESVILLE. a99 chiefly employed in rolling Juniata blooms, of which they use about 6000 tons. They also consume about 1,500 tons of p\g metal, and employ about 320 hands. There are nine Nail Factories, which manufacture daily about 18 tons of nails, and employ about 150 hands. There are also seven Steam Engine Factories, in •which are employed about 210 hands. As yet but three steam engines have been sent east of the moun- tains, four or nve to the northern lakes, and one to Mexico. Within two or three years past, the casting of sugar kettles, sugar mills, and small steam engines to drive them, for the planters of Louisiana, has be- come a very important branch of manufacturing busi- ness, and is increasing. In addition to the metal and blooms above mentioned, a large quantity of bar iron is brought to Pittsburgh from Juniata. The water was broui>ht across the aqueduct in Nov, 1829 ; and the preparations were almost com- pleted to connect the canal with the river and steam- boat navigation. There is a turnpike to Erie, distance 125 miles, with a daily line of stae:e coaches. Zanesville will probably become great as a manu- facturing town ; being situated in a region well sup- plied with iron and coal mines, and streams of water. The appearance of the country along the Ohio at Wheeling is remarkably beautiful ; and the country has thence derived the name of Belmont. The land is undulating, and rises gradually foi a distance back, affording many fine retrospects to a traveller in that direction, over a well cultivated region. Considerable quantities of tobacco are now raised here, which will be increased when the means of transportation are improved by the railroad. It is said that four dollars per cwt. will pay the cultivator. The falls of the Ohio were expected to be passable by the canal making on the Kentucky side^ m 1830. 1 ii'' 1 'i u \\ ! 4UU KOUTE TO OHIO. The works arc extensive and interesting ; and the facilities they must afford, highly important. Ohio Cana/.— According to the report of the Com- missioners of this canal, made in January 1830, the northern division of the Ohio canal, extending from Lake Erie to the Licking summit, 190 miles, was nearly completed, and the whole line from Cleave- land to Newark, 180 miles, was expected to be opened for navigation early in the spring. The sum paid for constructing that part of the canal up to the first of Dec. last, was $1, 916,324. The estimated sum re- quired to complete it was 21,204 dolls , exclusive of the navigable feeders. Cost of the Tuscarawas and Walhonding navigable feedere was 48,721 dollars. — Making the whole cost of that division of the cnnal, including feeders and reservoirs, 1,986,271 dollars. Estimated cost of the Muskingum Side Cut, or Branch Cut, 36,400 dollars. The whole line of canal between the Licking sum- mit and the Ohio river, 119 miles, and the Columbus feeder, 11 miles, was under contract to be completed, at different periods, f»efore the first of June, 1831. On a part ot it considerable work had been done. The amount of work done on that division was 415,769 dollars. The total cost of that division was estimated at 1,501,213 dollars. Aggregate amount of money paid for constructing the Ohio canal, up to Dec. 1, 1829, 2,336,367 dollars— and the estimated sum required to complete it was 1,248,000 dollars — making the total cost of the Ohio canal, 3,584,367 dol- lars, exclusive of the expenses of engineering and .superintending the construction. [The Legislature of Kentucky have incorporated a company for the purpose of constructing a railroad from Lexington to some point (not designated) on the Ohio ; the amount of stock, 1,000,000, with the privi- lege of increasing it, at the pleasure of the stocknold- «rs, to 2,000,000. The price of transportation is to be regulated by the Legislature. The work is to be com- STATISTICS UF (JlllO. ■401 menced within three, and completed within ten years thereafter.] [There are now enumerated three liundred and twenty-three steamboats upon the Mississippi and Ohio rivers, whose aggregate burden is estimated at 56,000 tons — the largest boat measuring 500, and the most common size being 250 tons. A boat now reaches Cincinnati, ordinarily, in from ten to twelve days from the mouth of the Mississippi, while eight or nine days suffice to run from Louisville to Pittsburgh and back.] In 1827 the Portage summit was opened to naviga- tion as far as Cleaveland. This summit is the highest point on the canal, being nearly 400 feet above it. The elevation is surmounted by 42 locks. It is 38 miles from the lake. The whole Miami canal was opened early in the year 1828, with flattering prospects of success and public advantage. It extends 67 miles from Cincin- nati to near Dayton. Cincinnati. — This place is remarkable for the ra- pidity of its growth. In 1 800 it contained a little above 2000 ; in 1810, 4000 ; in 1826 above 16,000 ; and in 1829 above 25,000. There are 16 places of public worship; a Commercial Hospital, Lunatic Asylum, Medical College, and the Western Museum. There are nine printing offices, which publish nine newspapers. Here is published the " Western Quarterly Review." Heretofore the business has been done prinripaliy with New-Orleans: but the length and diffi« ullies of the voyaife, and the exposure to disease operate as great objections to it. Statistics of Ofiio for 1829.— \cres of land, 15,878,171, valued at $41,193,000, including: buildings. Value of town lots. :luding ngs, 178,319, valued at $7,012,760. Cattle, 719,596, va- lued at $5,756,768. Merchants' capital, valued at $3,940,156. State tax, $193,609. County tax, $173,- 993. Road tax, $71,950. 'TVNvMship t^\, $5'i,096c School tax. $47,899 in 40e i'lTy OP PIIILADELnil A. THE CITY OF PHILADELPHIA. Hotels. — United Slates Hotel, in Chesnut-street, op- posite the United States Bank. National Hotel, op- posite the post office. Mansion House, in South 3d street, between Walnut and Spruce. Judd's, 2d, be- tween Market and Chesnut. Boarding Howes. — Mrs. Frazier's, in Spruce-street ; Mrs. Swords, Walnut ; Mrs. Allen, 6th, near the State House. Philadelphia is the second city, for size, in the United States ; and is remarkable for the regularity of its streets, which, almost without exception, run at right angles, and are of an equal and convenient breadth. Some of the public buildings are worthy of particular notice, as among the finest and most correct specimens of architecture in the countiy. It will be convenient to the stranger to recollect that the streets running north and south are named First J Second, Third, &c., beginning on both sides of the city, on the banks of the Delaware and Schuylkill, until they meet at the square near the centre. The streets which run east and west, are generally nained after trees ; the lanes and alleys, after shrubs, &c. The Market. — This consists of a succession of build- ings in the middle of Market-street, extending from the fish market on the river's bank to Eighth-street, affording room for a convenient display of the nume- rous articles dail} brought in for the supply of the city. Post Office, Chesnut-street, between Third and Fourth. The Bank of the United States, in Chesnut-street, between Fourth and Fifth. This is the finest specimen of pure Grecian taste in the United States. It is built of white marble in the form of a temple, with two fronts, each ornamented with eight fine Doric columns^ ot the a bankini and lig other printing the fur winter. Gera building row of The on Seco lumns. of whit< The^ and Sixt rooms, £ the mail their ses ence w *J Thejf gers. Thei Indent behind t is the i! nected v City L % P. M. clock. Thet the Wist Institutic among a dergone ing oas 1 as well a Here i Institute. l/NlVERSlrr. 4UJ ot the ancient proportions without bases. Besides the banking room, which is lari^e, occupying the centre* and lighted through a glass dome, there are many other apartments, particularly those devoted to the printmg of the notes, and that below, which contains the furnace for warming it with Lehigh coal in the winter. Gerard's Bank^ in Third, facing Dock-street. This building is also of marble, and presents a beautiful row of six Corinthian columns. The Bank of Pennsylvania^ opposite, has two fronts, on Second and Dock-streets, each with six Ionic co- lumns. This is another chaste and beautiful building of white marble. The State House, in Chesnut-street, between Fifth and Sixth-streets, is a large brick building, with court rooms, &c. at either end. In the front room, east of the main entrance, the old Continental Congress held their sessions ; and there the Declaration of Independ- ence w^s signed, July 4th, 1776. The Athen(JE.um is adjoining, open all day to stran- gers. The Philosophical Sonety^s Library and Cabinet. Independence Square \ ftne shaded piece of ground, behind tfie State House. Opposite in Walnut-street, is the State Prison, built ot dark stone, and con- nected with a yard enclosed by high walls. City Library, Fifth street, open to the public from 2, P. M. See Franklin's apparatus, and Cromweirs clock. The University contains a medical department, and the Wistar Museum, with a library, garden, &c. This Institution is considered the most richly endowed among all those in United States. It has recently un- dergone a n^e; ,v rrganization. A new medical build- ing nas been -sd' «a, and the professors are numerous as well as resj c .ble. The annual income is $15,000. Here is a High School, subservient to the Franklin Institute. The general system of public instruction .^aj V, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /L .< ^ 1.0 I.I IS 2.5 Il!!l2 t 1^ iio 18 1.25 1.4 1.6 M — 6" ► yjf ^^ / c^m., ' o\.. ''\> 'n '/ /A Photographic Sciences Corporation 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 873-4503 ^ «... ^ 404 CITY OF PHILADELPHIA. is extensive and of marked benefit. Infant Schools are nunaerous, and the system has been ingrafted on some of the numerous Sunday Schools. The Arcade, in Chesnut-street, is a fine building of stone, with two arched passages leading to Lafayette- streett; "tt is occupied ior shops, and has galleries in the upper story. The Philadelphia Museum of Mr. Peale is in the northern part. It contains a large col- lection of curiosities of various descriptions. ^ 'le birds are very numerous, but not well preserved. \ e huge skeleton of a man:moth will attract particular attention, beinff represented entire ; for the parts which were dencient on one side, have been supplied by imitations of those on the other. ^r.^uWy^s Exhibition oiPavntings is opposite the State House, and contains fine pictures. 1 7 Washington Square is on the other side of Sixth-street, with a handsome church on the southern side, with a range of wooden columns. The Pennsylvania Hospital is a large and admirable institution, in the next street, where great numbers of sick are attended. Twenty-five cents will secure ad- mission to the building and gardens, and alsa to the top. West^s Celebrated Picture of Christ Healing the Sick, is exhibited in a neat little building on the opposite side of the street. It represents the Saviour surrounded by a crowd of persons in the temple, among whom are observed many afflicted with various diseases, pressing forward to be healed. In front is a paralytic woman borne by two men, whose healthy countenances form a striking contrast with her cadaverous aspect ; and the painter has given a reddish tint to her feet, which seem already to have felt the miraculous influ- ence. A blind man appears behind, led by his. sons ; and on the left-hand is an infant supported by its mo- ther, with a poor blind girl and other figures. Near the centre is a lunatic boy, rather too shocking a sub- ject for such a picture : and a number of Jewish Rab- C'lTV: Ot PlilLAJiELJ'mA. 405 bis are collecled, with countenances txpressive of vio- lent passions. The apartment is adnr»irably calculated for the dis- play of the picture, which is universally considered one of the finest and most interesting in the United States. The Theatre^ in Chesnut-street, between Sixth and Seventh-streets, has a marble front, with the entrance under a portico, ornamented with statues of Comedy and Tr^p^cdy. The Masonic Hall is a little beyond, and somewhat in the Gothic style, with a small court yard in front. The Academy of Arts, Chesnut-street, between Tenth and Eleventh, contains a collection of statues, (among these are Canova's Three Graces,) busts, &c. in marble and plaster, ranged in an apartment lighted from the top ; and beyond a gallery of pictures with many specimens of the wcrks of American artists, particularly of Alston, among which is conspicuous that of the dead body restored to life by the bones of the prophet Elisha. The Jefferson Medical College U in Tenth-street, be- tween Chesnut and Walnut. In Arch-street is a Theatre. The Orphans'' and the IVidorvs^ Asylums are in the western part of the citv. Academy of Natural Sciences. Penn^s house, Letiiia court. United States'* Mint,^ &ic. &c. Szvaim^s Bath is in Seventh-street. '' M'iio voport of tlio TMivrtor of tlio Mint, in JS-27, statra iJiat ifi^ (■(iinaw etlfCtt'd wiiliiii that year arnountcil to $J,024,3-li2 a*-', consisting oi ;i,iL'ce.s of coin, vi/,. < >:'(;()!(!, '-27,7 in pieces; making .«!rJl,r.r,5 00 Jiiilvfr, 0,7i'.','l(M> dc li,H(»9,J>00 OU Cc.piH!!, 'l.TolyTiii do. -'2:J,577 '.Vi (),(l97,84.-i $3,024,342 3i 'i'h'^ <;fl('ct»'(l at the Mint (lurinj; 18-2'.», amounts to .^^,300,87.";, dei.aw akj: ca.nai.. intended to secure a depth of only 8 feel : but it liub since been increased to 10 feet. The steamboats Car- roll and William Penn are very fine and splendid. The latter is 408 tons, 150 feet long, and draws only 4^ feet of water ; of the most approved model for speed, with two engines of nearly eighty horse power, con- structed upon the most improved and safe principles. Her cabins arc so arranged as to form at pleasure one entire apartment the whole leneth of the vessel, all of w^hich is highly fmished, and decorated with simpli- city, but great taste ; between two and three hundred might dine with grcat comfort in this apartment ; seven or eight hundred perhaps might be accommodated on her main deck. The principal objects upon the line which will in- terest a stranger are, the harbour on the Delaware, the a(^oining embankment on St. George's Marsh, the Deep' Cut, and the Summit Bridge. Three towns have been laid out on the route : Delaware, Chesapeake, and Bohemia. The Harbour on the Delaware is at Delaware City. It is formed by two piers running into the water ; one five hundred leet long, and tlie other six hundred, with a return pier of one hundred feet. Boats enter the first lock a little distance from this. Swivel Bridge. The first of three swivel bridges is passed three quarters of a mile from the Dela- ware. St, George'^s Marsh. This is a low, flat tract of land, over which the tide ebbed and flowed until a great embankment was raised which serves as a towing path, and excludes the water. The soil was so soil and light, that earth was brought from a distance to form the bank ; which gradually sunk so far that it is supposed to have displaced, in some parts, a quantity equal to a column ot forty feet. At St. George*s is another lock, of the usual dimensions, and a swivel bridge. At the end of three miles the Cranberry JMarshr? are also passed : and threo miles further is mrm THE I'E^NriiLVAMA CANAL. 411 The old Mill Pondy wliich serves as a part of the canal. The Deep Cut is a section five miles long, where the height of the bank varies from 8 to 70 feet. Over the middle of it is extended the Summit bridee, a most imposing construction, reaching from hill to bill, with a single arch of 235 feet span, at the deepest part of this immense trench, and bearing its key at the elevation of 90 feet above the bottom of the canal. Schoonei's and the largest sloops ma}^ pass beneath with their masts standing ; ana the view embraced by the eye from above or beloiv is grand, impressive, and almost terrific. The Western Lift Lock is a few miles further west j and beyond this a Basin, 400 by 100 feet. The Debouche Lock opens at the end of the Basin into Back Creek, at Chesapeake Village, 4 miles from Chesapeake Bay. The principal reservoir on the line is a pond of 100 acres, ten feet in depth. (The Pennsylvania Canal. Under this general name is comprehended a great and extensive system of internal improvements, for several years designed by the Legislature of this state. Numerous plans for canals and railways have been proposed and considered, surveys have oeen made of the principal routes supposed to be capable of im- provement for the benent of the public, and consider- able progress has been made in some places in works to connect the waters of the Ohio and Susquehan- nah, while navigation has been opened up to the Mauch ■ Chunk Mines, &c. It will be some time before the western works will be so far completed as to attract many travellers from the established routes ; but such information as they may hereafter desire, may be looked for in subsequent editions of this little book. li II 112 THB PENNSYLVANIA CANAL. In 1829, there were 435 miles of finished canals in Pennsylvania, and between 2 and 300 miles remain to be completed. The lollowing is a j^eneral outline of the areat west- ern plan of internal improvements undertaken by the Pennsylvania Canal Commissioners, as expressed in their report to the Legislature. *^ From its commence- ment at Middletown it stretches to the Juniata — thence up that river to the foot of the Alleghany Mountains on the east, and crossing the ridee to connect the waters of the Susquehannah with the Alleghany and Ohio rivere, ascending the main branch of tne Susque- hannah with the dividing point of the eastern and western branches, it contemplates an improved navi- gation to the sources of these great streams, as well as some of their tributary branches — presenting one cbnnected chain of improved or canal navigation of not less than five hundred miles in extent." The eastern part of this work was completed in 1827 — from the susquehannah at Middletown to Har- risburgh. A Basin is formed in the river at the mouth of the Swatara, opposite the basin of the Union Canal, with which it communicates by a lock of 2^ feet lift. It has also an outlet lock, and a lock opening into the Sw2>tara of 9 feet lift. The canal lies principally in an easy, alluvial soil from the Susquehannah to Har- risburgh, and passes over extensive tracts of level countr)^. There are ten locks in that distance, begin- ning with the outlet lock at Middletown. They are all 17 feet b 90 in the chamber, and are 2^, 7, 8, and 9 feet in the lift. On the first part of the canal, that is, to Clark's Ferry, 23,7 miles, the breadth at bottom is 30 feet, at top 40, and the depth 4; while the re- mainder of the distance to Harrisourgh it is larger — 35 at bottom, 45 at top, and 4^ ^^^P* ^^ supply the ma- chinery at the latter place. The canal passes on aqueducts over Paxton, Fishing, Stoney, and Clark's creeks, and is to be supplied from the Susquehannah, from 15 miles above JHarrisburgh. Many rocks were TILE rL.NNjjiLVAMA CA.NAL. iK; blasted here. There arc basins at Harrisburgh and Clark's creeks.*] .'! * The Juniata River is a stream of a remarkably romantic cliaraclcr, beiiifi! enclosed by high, rude, and rocky eminences, which present a constant variety of Hccncry. Since its course has bieen selected as u part of the great canal route, it may be safely predicted that its scenes ure destined to administer to the enjoyment of many travellers. From the junction of the two branches the canal will run on the west side as far as Sunbury ; a dnm being constructed at Shainokin Kipples, which will form an extensive and convenient harbour for boatH, and afford srcat water power for manufactories. The Legislature have authoriz(;d the opening of slack water navigation between the river and Shnmokin Coal Mines. On the Frniikstown branch of the Juniata river, 5 miles below Franks town, is an intermitting spring, which often has a flux and reflux three or four times in an hour. Tliree or four feet from it is anotlicr spring; which flows regularly and constantly. The following is a list of the works authorized by the Legislature in 1828, in pursuance of the threat system of internal improvement comprc- liended in the Pennsylvania Canal. Canals and locks are to be contracted for, Ist, from Northumberland to the Bald Eagle, on the west branch of the Susquehannah ; 'id, from Northumberland along the north branch to the New- York state line ; ."^d, from Pittsburgh, by the Beaver route, to Erie on Lake Erie ; 4th, from Taylor's Ferry to Easton on the Delaware; 5th, from Blairsvillo on the Conen)augh(a) to the highest practicable point. From 25 to 45 miles each of these sections, and the whole of the French Creek Feeder, were contracted for that season. 6th. There is to be located a road across the Alleghany mountains, to connect the Juniata and Conemaugh sections, to be completed as early as those sections. 7th. A railroad is to be located from Philadelphia through Lancaster to Columbus on the Susquehannah, 30 miles of which were contracted for the first year. 8th. Surveys and examinations were made for a canal along tlie iNfotKumahela from Pittsburgh to Virginia. Uth Surveys and examinations from the Raystown branch of the Juniata to the Conemaugh, for a canal or railway. For the expense of these two millions of dollars were appropriated. (Tlie banks of the Susquehannah are the most fertile in the south- oastorn pfvt nC the ptnte; and the mountains abound in anthracite coal. The muK.'ral wealth which the great public works will draw from its beds must be immense, as well as various.) i-ii 1'!; (a) There are salt springs in the vicfiity. The salt water at the Cone- )naugh works yiehis a bushel of salt for 300 gallons. The salt wells o\\ the Kiskeminetap. the Fame quantity for every 40 or ."iO i^nJIons. warn 114 KOUTES TO THE COAL MINES. ROUTE FROM PHILADELPHIA TO NEW- . , YORK. (See page 432.) The Railroad granted by New- .Fersey, from Camden to Amboy, (with a branch to Bordentown^) will probably be soon constructed. ROUTES TO THE COAL MINES. In consequence of the opening of the vast beds of coal between the Delaware and Schuylkill rivers, at a distance of about 80 or 100 miles north of Philadel- phia, that tract of country has become an object of great interest; and since the travelling has lieen re- cently improved by the construction of roads and canafs, and the establishment of good inns, stage coaches, and canal boats, a jaunt in that direction is now a very common and fashionable one. The Union Gzna/, which runs from the Schuylkill at Rending to Middl?town on the Susquehannah, will also attract travellers in this direction. Those who find it convenient, will be pleai^ed to extend their journey west by the Pennsylvania Canal from Middle- town to Lancaster. The Pennsylvania Canal Com- f)any have some of the most commodious boats on this ine, which start from the Schuylkill below the Per- ma.ient Bridge, and go to Middletown. [The traveller may make Bedford Springs an object on this route.] In the tract of country north from Philadelphia are found inexhaustible quantities of coal, in elevated ridges and mountains of the Alleghany range, which are supposed to be connected with those which are known on the western side of the range, although they are of different characteristics. The western coal is easily combuF^ble, and resembles that imported from jLiverpool, &t., while the former is hard) very diifi^ rue! COAL am La. U cult to kindle* and burns with very little flame. It i»f however, of great purity, bcinp^ of that sort known to geologists by the name of Anthracite, and is now very extensively used for fuel in Philadelphia, New-York^ and different parts of the countiy. It only requires a fireplace on the plan of a furnace, and a little ex- perience in managing it. The varieties of this coal come down in a kind of rude square boats, called arks, drawing only 12 or 15 inches of water, but con- taining about 260 bushels each, which may usually be seen on the shores of the Schuylkill, and at the docks in the Delaware. It is only a few years since this coal was supposed to be entirely worthless ; and now the demand is enormous. In 1829,25,110 tons of coal came from the Lehigh mines, and 79,973 were received by the Schuylkill river. The whole length of the line of navigation, under- taken and completed by the Schuylkill company, is 110 miles; and the work is consicTered the greatest ever performed in this country by private individuals. It commences at the Lancaster Schuylkill bridge, and ends at Mount Carbon. Sixty-two miles of it are bj canals, and 46 by pools in the river. The number of houses for lock keepers is 65, the number of lock the whole Erio canal in mmm 41G KOUTES TO THE COAL 3ili\i:s. New- York. Besides this, the country is of the transi- tion formation, with sloping strata, which cause much leaking. In 1825, the expense had amounted to nearly three millions; and it was expected that another million would be required to complete the navigation. The articles brought down, are coal, lumber, limestone, iron ore, with flour, and many products of agriculture and manufacture. The amount of tolls collected in 1825, was only $15,775; but the canal was open only a part of llie season. It has since greatly increased. Road to the Leuigii Coal Mines, At Mauch Chunk, o The mail coach for Bethlehem, Wilkesbarre, (Jc iieva, Niagara, and Buffalo, starts from Field's, in Race-street, (between tJd and 4th streets,) on Mori- davs, Wednesdays, and Fridays, at 6 A. M. The Bristol and Easton stage coach goes daily, al G A. M., from North 2d street, above Market. The Easton mail, every week day, from 124 Noitlj 4th street. It is recommended, however, to take one of thf? Union Line Steamboats, and go up the Delaware to Bristol, whence stage coaches go to Easton. A packet boat was to be established on the canal from Easton to Mauch Chunk. Philadelphia to Rising Sun, 4 miles ; Branchtown. (Child's tavern,) 4; Shoemakertown, 8; Jenkintown, 10 ; Abington, 12 ; Wiilovvgrove, 14 ; Horsham, 16 ; Graham Park, 22 ; Newville, — ; Doyleston, 26 ; Dan- ville, 29; Roderick's tavern, — ; Tohicken bridge, — ; Easton, (see page 425,) 5 ; Mauch Chunk, (see page; 428,) — . The traveller may take either the Stagf. Coach f or the • — llOtTE It* THE SCm/VLiaLL MINES. 417 Canal Rotite to the Schuylkill Coal Mines. At Mount Carbon. The Steamboat Schuylkill goes from Fairmount to Manayunk twice a day. The excursion may give a brief introduction to the scfenery of the Schuylkill ; and that place is remarkably wild and singular. On the whole line of this river, there are no less than 31 dams. In 1827, the amount of tolls taken on the Schuylkill was $15,775 ; and in 1829, $120,039. The canal boats start on the Schuylkill at regular hours, for which the traveller is referred to the news^ papers. A carriage will be necessary, as the boats lie at the western extremity of the city. On this route a boat with one horse performs the work of 7 wagons and 28 horses. Mercnandise goes from Philadelphia to Mount Carbon for g5 a ton. Manayunk is a lai^e manufacturing village, begun only about 1819 or 1820. The manufactories are Fur- nished with water by a canal 3 miles in length, through which the boat will pass. In 1825 there were six buildings of this description, some of them 150 feet long, called the Flat Rock, Woodvilie, &c. Manufac- tories. Keating and Co.'s is intended lor 6000 spin- dles, with water-looms for weaving. The building is 20*^ feet long and 45 wide. The water power is still sufficient for an immense number. There is an oil, paper, and grist mill at this place ; and a considerable village formed of the dwellings of the workmen, stores, &c. This tract of country is very rich in water falls. [The county of Delaware, which is very small, contains about 130 manufactories of different descriptions, moved by water.] Passing from the canal, the boat enters the Flat Hock IV'i^in and the river. .!i lii 'i iia KUUTEb TU 'i'llK COAL MIMi^S. Plymouth Locks. — Here is a canal about three- quarters of a mile long. A little below it is a large spring which supplies a mill. It yields such a sur- l^rising stream of water, that it was once proposed to conduct it to Philadelphia for the use of the city. The marble quarries are also in this vicinity; from which stone is sent to the same place. JSI'orristown contains some fine houses, as well ^as a court house, jail, and two churches, one in the Gothic style, which stands in a conspicuous situation. A cot- ton manufactory or two will be found here. The village is on the same side of the river as the canal, A bridge has been lately erected here 800 feet long. The Sluice. — This is a place where the current of the river was very rapid, and required a dam — 4 miles from Norristown. Catfish Island Dam, 1 mile. Pottsgrove, 36 miles from Philadelphia, is a pretty village. Reading, 54 miles from Philadelphia, is a place of considerable importance, inhabited by Germans, and contains some handsome public buildings. The Union Canal begins below the town at a point 60 miles from Philadelphia. [The Uivion Caical. After parting from the Schuylkill two miles below- Reading, this canal passes up the western shore of the river, to the valley of the Tulpehocken; and then follows that valley till within five miles oi Lebanon, where begins the summit level. In all this distance it rises 311 feet, by numerous locks of 4 and 8 feet lift. The canal is 24 feet wide at bottom, 4 deep, and 36 on the surface. The Svmrnit Level is ten miles and 78 chains in length. On this part of the canal is the Tunnel; an excavation bored through a hill for a i>.-?»waagj-Tr -.. . :.,« ■ ■ J \"20 KOUTES TO THE COAL MlJNEti. The summit level lies on a limestone soil, which makes it necessary to plank the bottom and sides of the canal, to prevent the filtration of water. Narrow boats have been introduced on this canal, fn>m a con- viction of their being of easier draft. This work was commenced some years ago by David Rittenhouse, Robert Morris, and others, but given up; The locks are thought capable of passinj^ a boat every five or six minutes ; and the canal, it the banks and locks were raised one foot, would be large enough for boats of 40 tons, and able to admit the passage of nearly two millions of tons annually. The summit level opens westwardlv upon the valley of Clark's Creek. Hence the canal passes on the Swatara river, which has two dams, and whose course it follows to Middle- town on the Susquehannah. The descent to this river from the summit level is 192 feet 6 inches, surmounted by 37 locks.^ There are 12 aqueducts on the whole Toute, one of them 276< feet long, and another 165. There are 93 lift locks, 75 feet wide and 72 long : most of them laid with water cement. The boats most approved for transportation on this canal are long, 8 teet 3 inches wide. The tolls on the most coarse and bulky articles are half per cent, per mile. Coal, lime, marble, pig iron, &c. pay three-quarters per cent. ; flour, grain, salted provisions, potash, &c. a cent and a quarter ; boards, plank, &c. one cent per 1000 feet ; timber, one cent per solid foot. Salt, mer- chandise, &c. passing westward, pay two cents a ton per mile. The toll on passage boats is twenty cents a mile ; and on loaded freight Koats only two cents. That part of the Pennsylvania Canal between the Susquehannah and Harrisburgh* was opened to navi- gation in 1829 ; and large tracts on different parts are in different stages of progress. The following list of places and distances by the canal route may prove of some interest to the traveller. From Middletown to the month of the Juniata, 21 THE ->10t.\TAl.N DAM. 4:^:1 miles ; hence to Lewiston, up that stream, 45 ; from the mouth of the Juniata to Northumberland, 45 ; thence, up the north branch of the Susquehannah, to Nanticoke Falls, 55 ; from the mouth of the Juniata to Smith's Mills, above Huntini^don, 90; from Middletown to Muncy Hills, on the west branch of the Susquehannah, 100 ; from Johnstown to Pittsburgh, is 104 miles. It is proposed to cross the Alleghany mountains by a railway 38 miles long, including a tunnel a mile in length at the summit : the whole expense of which is estimated at $936,000. fVe return to the Schuylkill JVavigation.] From Reading, the road passes lor some distance near the river, and affords an opportunit}r to see the canals, dams, &c. made to assist the navigation. It passes near Duncan^s Job, a piece of deep cutting in a solid rock, 60 feet down. This place is five or six miles from Reading. In 1829, a vein of Anthracite coal was discovered at Reamstown, half the distance to Lancaster. Numerous shafts have been sunk near the Schuylkill for Anthracite coal. The Peach Orchard mines afford beautiful particoloured specimens. In these, and others, specks and lumps of perfect charcoal have been found, imbedded in the fossil — with other ap- pearances which tend to raise many conjectures con- cerning the original formation of these mines. The road to Hambureh from Reading lies through the Gre it Limestone Valley of Pennsylvania ; which has the Kittatinny chain of mountains on the north, and the Blue 'v^^ge on the south. The surface is beauti- fully varied by the natural undulations of the surface ; and the road aftbrds a very tine succession of beautiful scenes, where the well-cultivated farms are usually backed by ranges of fine mountains. The inhabitants dwell in good, and often handsome houses, while theii great stone barns speak thorough husbandry. The Moimtain Dam, near Hamburgh, is 27 feet high. " 1, RimilfMw*— 'lA-'l 42JiJ U(H TJh:a TO THE COAL MINES. .»i Hamburou. This is a small village, with nearly a hundred houses, with a church situated in a romantic position, at the entrance of the Schuylkill Water Gap. — This is a narrow gorge, through which the river runs over a steep and rocKy channel for four or five miles; leaving no room upon its banks, which rise abruptly on each side to the height of several hundred feet. The road has been cut out along the tace of one of these ranges, at a great elevation; where the surface is in many places of such a declivity, as to require it to be si'oported by walls of stone. The views which are here anbrded to the traveller are romantic and varied in a high de- gree; presenting the woody mountains in dinerent directions, with the course of the Schuylkill winding through them. There is a spring which passes the road, remarkable only as the boundary between two contiguous counties. Tlie Little Schuylkill River, a branch of the princi- pal stream, runs through a valley of the same general description ; and here lies the road to Mount Carbon. The country will hardly admit of any cultivation ; and few inhabitants are seen. Iron Works. — The iron works of Mr. Old are situated at the termination of this valley, on a small meadow, shut in by mountains : a wild[ and secluded scene. The proprietor has a handsome house ; and the shops and Qwellings of the workmen are numerous. The scenery beyond retains its interesting character. The Tunnel. — This is a place where a hill has been bored through 375 yards for a canal, about three miles from Orwigsburgh. Port Carbon, at the head of the Schuylkill navi- gation, is a point at which the railroads of Mill Creek and the valley germinate. Six miles above, on thr cu MOUNT CARB(:)^. 12S ix)ute ot the latter, is Selzers— a new town. This rail- road reaches to within about eight miles of Mauoh Chunk. Orwigsburoh, about eig:ht miles from the Gap. This village is three miles distant from the river, and enjoys an agreeable situation, although the soil is not very good. It is rather larger than Hamburgh, and contains a court house, jail, &c. The German language here prevails, and is used in the church as well as in the ordinary -concerns of life. Iron has lately been discovered near this place. MOUNT CARBON, eight miles, is in sight of several coal mines. The coal country in this regiijn begins in Luzerne^ on the upper part of the Lnckawana River, following its course to the Susquehannah, And along that stream, principally on the eastern bank, to 18 miles beyond Wilkesbarre. It runs south to the Lehigh River, and thence south-west, through Schuylkill county. It is estimated to extend about 70 miles ; and about the middle of the ranare is 8 or 9 miles wide, growing narrower towards each end. At Mount Carbon the coal occurs in beds 4 or 5 feet in thickness, generally running east and west ; and dipping to the south at 45 degrees, with a slate rock immediately over it, and strata of sandstone and earth above. The slate, as usual, in the vicinity of coal, presents the impressions of organized substances at some ancient period im- bedded in its substance : such as the leaves ef laurel, fern, &c. In consequence of the inclination of the coal veins into the earth, the miners have, in some places, sunk shafts to the depth of 150 feet, with lateral excava- 424 KOLTES TO THE COAL MlKLa. tions, east and west, of various lengths to 300. Tyvu .small carriages called Trams, are used in a sloping shaft to bring the coal out, being made to descend by turns ; but in the horizontal one, which has been crf- ried in about 500 feet, they employ wheelbarrows. Some of the veins run perpendicularly. Sharp Mountain, 600 feet high, and Broad Moun- tain, 900, are penetrated by nunienus mines. The coal is dug out with wedges, drills, and sledges, &c. and as it costs only about $50 to open a mine, and no- thing else but labour in digging and raising it, the ad- vantages are not confined to capitalists. Wagoners are ready to transport the coal to the landings, and put it into Doats. The canal has been extended from Port Carbon up to Mill Creek, which will supply great quantities of coal. A railroad, from 5 to 8 miles long, is designed to be extended from Schuylkill River to the mines on the West Branch. In 1823 there were but 5 houses at Mount Carbon ; and in 1827 more than 100, with 1200 inhabitants, besides the landing. Route to the Lehigh Coal Mines, At Mauch Chunk. The traveller going from Philadelphia to the Lehigh Mines, may take one of the steamboats to Bristol, whence a stage coach starts, on their arrival, for New- town and New-Hope, 34 miles from Philadelphia ; and thence for Easton, 36 miles more, nearly all of which is along the bank of the Delaware, and com- mands a view of its wild and interesting scenery. There are three routes from Philadelphia by which Mauch Chunk may be reached : 1st. By the way of Bethleheoi ; 2d. By the way of Easton through Doylestown ; and 3d. By the way of Bristol, also through Easton. By either route you reach the village ir) a day and a half. [For these places, see hdex."} EAUTO^. 425 New-Hope is in a romantic situation ; and Goat Hill iises opposite to the height of 500 feet, its top aflfording a line view. 2 miles south of this villagiB is Ingham's Spring, which furnishes a supply of water to no less than 13 water wheels. Bridges cross the Delaware to New-Jersey at New-Hope and Mitcheirs. Delaware Water Gap. The scenery at this spot is romantic and beautiful. The course of the river appears at a little distance as if arrested by two op- posite mountains, between which it flows in a narrow channel, suddenly contracting itself to a furlong's breadth, from a oroad, smooth, and unbroken sheet like a lake of considerable extent. Every feature in this beautiful scene leads one to believe, that the bar- rier opposed to the water was once much higher than now, and that the country was consequently overflown for a considerable distance above the existing banks. There is some fertile land in the vicinity, ancTthe hills contain many mineral treasures : iron ore, &c. &c. - ■^ ' ■/■ ^r-^> EASTON. ';.='.,V,.,-'^':-\.../ This is a village of some size, and a central point from which numerous roads diverge, and stage coaches run in various directions. It is situated in a rich val- ley, enclosed by the South and Blue Mountains. It i3 about 52 miles from Philadelphia, and contains about 3000 inhabitants. Within a compass of a rniie and a half are 18 mills; and 250,000 barrels of liour are an- nually sent to the capital. Nearly 150,000 bushels of grain are also consumed at the distilleries in a year, and converted into poison for the body and the mind. (Writing slates are quarried in this vicinity.) The following is a list of distances from Easton on the different stage routes. New-York, 70 miles; Scholey's Mountain, 23 ; Morristown, 41 ; New- Brunswick, 45 ; Bethlehem, 12 ; Mauch Chunk, 34 ; Nazareth, 7 : Delaware Wind Gap, 20 ; Stroudsbuiigb, 1 ■^ il^^HHH^^^^^I ii.u*ni> j.';.;^Sw':a^«wsii^3£S ii ,H1411!M W II-»in" 420 liouTi: To Till: COM. mine^. '27 ; Wilkesbarre, 52 ; Belvidere, 12 ; Reading, 6si . Newtown, (Sussex county,) 40. From Newtown a coach runs three limes a week, to Montrose, Oweffo, Ithaca, and Geneva, and commu- nicates with the Erie canal, and with the direct route to Buffalo. Thk Delaware and Hudson Canal was bee:un July r3th, 1825, and was navigable late in the year 1828. It commences at Kin^rston, on the Hudson River, and runs over to Carpenter's Point, on the Delaware River, through the valley of the Never- sink Creek, tlience up the valley of the Delaware to the Lacka waxen Creek, at Honesdale, and up that creek to the foot of the railway. This is a continuous canal of 106 miles in length, and was completed from the Delaware to the Hudson in 1827, and is now iinisbed and in operation through its whole extent, and coal is passing in considerable quantities. The railway com- mences at the termination of the canal, and runs over Moosick mountain^ to the coal mines on the Lackawana Creek, in length 16 t miles, overcoming an elevation of 858 feet. Seven locomotive steam engines will be em- ployed onthree planes, and live stationary engines and three brakes on the ascents. The ascents where the sta- tionary engines and brakes are used, are graduated at 5 degrees. The railway and all its appurtenances will be completed in 1 828, at an estimated expense of $178,000. The cost of each locomotive engine about g 1,600, and weight about six tons. Carbondale is the mining village on the Lackawana River, opened by the Delaware and Hudson Canal Company. It is 8 miles from Dundaff, and 32 from Wilkesbarre. At Easton will be seen the dam over the Delaware, at ti viga plac the Deh unin T 12 n and * Prom this commanding height the view ia fire, and the Caiskill Moiuitninp. in •Vew-York. are visible, at the riistancf of 9ft or 100 miles liij^LAWAltl;: AMJ JHiJiaU.\ CA.NAL. ii7 at the termination of the works for improvinj? the na- vigation of Lehigh River, from Maucb Chunk to this place. The state of Pennsylvania intend to extend the navigation, by a canal on the western bank of the Delaware, to Bristol, when the communication will be uninterrupted to Philadelphia. ' > The rjad to Mauch C-hunk Ifjads through Bethlehem, 12 miles. This is a neatly built place, m a romantic and <^.elightful situation, along the course of a swift running brook. It is inhabited by Germans, and little English will be heard spoken in the place. There is an old church and an academy for the education of girls, under the management of the Moravians, to which sect the inhabitants belong. A little beyond Bethlehem the country begins to assume a niore n)oun- iainous appearance ; and along the banks of the Lehigh they rise to a height of seven or eight hundred leet, or even more. '^ - It is related by tradition, that nearly 100 years ago, three men set out from Bristol, to walk, between sun and sun, for the title to as much land as the best pe- destrian of them could cr ss in that time. The suc- cessful one (Fidward Marshall) gained for the con- tractors, from the Indians, a tract extending north-west to Still Water. He passed up the Delaware and Le- high, round Pocono Mountain, &c. a distance computed at 119 or 30 miles. The works on the Lehigh River are on a lai^e scale, and worthy of particular remark. The river de- scends 365 feet, and requires 62 locks. The locks are intended for the passage of steamboats capable ol" car- rying 150 tons of coal. Thev will all be 100 feet long and 30 wide. There will be 21 dams ; and the canals will be 60 feet wide at the bottom, with 5 feet of water. The view of these works of art, combined with distant sights of the Blue Ridge, renders the ridge highly interesting. The locks are on a new construction, and can be filled and emptied both in '^•even minutes bv one attendant. The sate, like a , '\ 4-,. 4J^JJ MA ton OUtiiNK. great float, is raised when the water is let in ; and, iUv post being turned round, the water flows over the ton of the gate, when it gradually sinks again. Maucli Chunk shows mountains perhaps 1000 feet h'vjh. The Lehigh Water Gap, 26 miles from Easton ^.'jd 11 from Lehighton, 6 miles from Mauch Chunk. Here is a bridge. The river, for a mile, passes through an opening in the Blue Ridge, with barely room Tor the road be- tween the shore and a precipice. Neir this spot is the DeoiVs Pulpit, a remarkable cavity in the rocks. The first obiects that attract attention near the vil- lage of Mauch Chunk, are the lock in the river, and the Chute, or inclined plane, at the end of the railway, down which the loaded coal cars slide to the wharf on the river, where they load the boats and arks. The latter carry about 10 tons. The noise of the Cars com- ing down the railway will often be heard rumbling as the traveller approaches the village. • ^ 'i •» - ' i ■I J ^ J.i ..tV Mauch Chunk, 90 miles from New-York, and 10 from Philadelphia. There is a spacious hotel in this young and flourish- ing village, which has been well kept, and serves as the rendezvous for numerous parlies of visiters every season. Stage coaches have heretofore run to Easton daily — fare il 50 — also to Berwick, Newton, and Buf- falo. There are few places where a stranger will find more to gratify him than here. The village is shut in by rude mountains, of such height that the sun is invi- sible to many of the inhabitants during the short days. The hotel commands a view of some parts of ,. :.' ■) MAtt;i£ CllLAK KAILWAV. 4ii^ u The Railway, 'which leads irom near Ihe coal mines to the Lehi8:b iiiver. This was the second ever constructed in the United States — the Quincy Kailway, in Massachusetts, hcin;^ the first. It extends a distance of nine miles, alonff the side of a mountain. The sleepers, on which the railway rests, are oi wood, which is Ibund a very economical substitute for the iron used in FZrigland. The rails are also of wood, 4 by 6 inches, and covered with an iron plate ^ of an inch thick. The whole construction cost, on a fair estimate, only $4,500 a mile ; while the lowest esti- mate for a road on the Enp^lish plan was $10,000 a mile. The coal mine lies a little on the opposite side of the mountain ; and the coal cars are first drawn by horses 10 the beginning of the railway up an acclivity of | of a mile. The summit is 982 feet above the river. The whole work was performed in 2 months and 2 days. rleasurc wagons, like Dearborns, are occasionally used to carry strangers up and down the railway ; but tijey ofien go up irj the returning cars. The average lise of the way is 18 inches in iOO (eet^ which is scarcely perceptible to the eye, and permits a single horse to draw up three empty cars, incoming down, however, by their own gravity, the carriages would, if permitted, move with immense rapidity. In 1827 they were restricted to a rate not exceeding 8 miles an hour. It is said that they had pre/iously gone 15 and even 20. The road generally passes alon^ a nar- low shelf, which is alarming to a stranger particularly in descending ; some of the precipices being 500 or GOO feet. The Tunnel is seen in going up, about 400 feet above the road. It is 12 feet high, '20 wide, and about 4J0 lUE COAL mini:*. 300 long'. It was cut through the mountain in lb:2b, to obtain a short passage to a bed of coal supposed to lie on the other side, A shaft was sunk sixty-four feet from the summit of the hill without finding coal ; five hundred feel beyond this shaft towards the north, a hole has been bored to the depth of one hundred and ten feet ; coal was found at eighty fret, and the auger continued in coal to the extremity of the bore. The Compan^^, however, were disappointed ; but they have an inexhaustible supply of^ this useful ar- ticle, as their land extends 14 miles back (rom the river, and along the road ; and 10 or 12 miles are un- derlaid by beds of anthracite coal. vVhen the Lehigh, the Delaware Canal, and the Morris Canal, in New- Jersey, shall all be navigable, New-York and Phila- delphia will derive immense supplies of fuel from this wonderful region. The cars are made of strong oak timbers, and planked up on three sides, with a swinging door in the rear. Some new ones, however, have lately been constructed, in which stout sheet iron has been substi- tuted for plank. They are 6 feet 4 inches long, 3 teet wide at top, and 2 feet at bottom, and about 3 feet in depth, resting on wheels with cast iron rims or felloes 2 feet in diameter, one inch thick, and about lour niches in breadth, with a strong edge or flanch, one inch in thickness, and about two inches wide, which prevents them from slipping off the rails. The cars may be stopped immediately by a long lever which brings strong bearers against two of the wheels, and causes great friction. The guide to every brigade of eleven cars holds a rope attached to all the levers. A curious machine, called the Brakcy is also used. There is generally a stop to be made in the midst ot the course, to wait tor other cars passing, and to oil the wheels. Several ingenious expedients have been resorted to in different parts of the railroad, to avoid some incon- »'^?niences >vhich might otherwise be caused by sudden MAUCli CliU^K KAILWAY 431 in turns, ri^ht angles, cross-roads, bridges, &c. The rail- way is in several parts supported by a stone wall at the side. Cross-roads are not inteicepted by it, for the rails are interrupted so as to correspond with the ruts ; at the short turns, one rail is raised in a curve of a few inches to give the car a new direction ; and at a right angle, like those at the mine and at the chute above the Lehigh, revolving platforms are placed which turn th^ cars round, 45 degrees. The cars themselves weigh about 1500 lbs. each, and run on wheels two feet in diameter. Strangers often make an excursion in them for the novelty ofthe mode of travelling. In 1827, not less than 150 such cars were in use. They carry the coal to the chute above the river, down which they are sent 215 feet. At the end of the railroad is a platform on the bank of the Lehigh River, down which the coal is let over one of the rails on an inclined plane of 750 feet (200 feet perpendicular height), to the stone houses, the wharf, and the boats. Each loaded car is connected to an empty one, which it draws up, by a rope that passes round a large cylinder or drum. A car goes down in about 1 minute and 20 seconds. The noise of the cars on the railway is perceptible at a great distance. In 1827, 121? cars descendea in a day, with 198 tons of coal. The Mine, or quarry, as it ought, perhaps, properly to be called, opens upon the road by three passages, cut 8 or 10 feet deep in the ear h. These conduct into an area 150 yards long and very wide, and from 8 to 35 feet in depth, formed with great regularity, by the re- moval of many thousand tons of coal, which have been dug out in such a m.anner as to keep the surface on an inclined p' jn? where the carts drive in, load, and then pass out at the other passage. The coal is very hard, pure, and black, with a beautiful conchoidal fracture, and perfectly clean in handling. The middle, an area r>0 yards across, has been dug down many feet 4Jii lUO.n I'HILADEM'HIA t'H> M:\V-VfiKK. deeper, and to it there is amjthor entrance from i\ui i-oaa. The surface of the pjround was covered with a coat of sand 2 feet thick, intersper.se(i with sandstone ; under that was feet of black pulverized coal ; and then came the coal itself. Near the road is a mass of slaty coal in undulated strata which is of inferior quality. Near the south or further side of the mine, some beautiful impressions of fern leaves have been found in the rocks. [Bituminous coal has been found, in an extensive mine, at Lick Creek, near the Jersey shorrj, Lycoming county, in Pennsylvania.] Lowrytowfii 15 miles above Mauch Chunk, is sihi- ated on the Lehigh River, in the midst of a most wild and romantic region. Here are four saw-mills, which are supplied witn timber from the surrounding moun- tains; the trees beings cut far abo'e, and slid down their steep sides into the stream. Arks go down, as on the lower parts of the river, by being set otF on the ilood caused by opening the gate of the dam. Ladies sometimes pass down in this manner, boxes being resorted to instead of arks, to keep out Uie wa- ter. Materials for building arks at Maucn Chunk, &c. are supplied from Lowrytown. Wilkesbarrc. A rough "oad conducts to this place. ROUTE FROM PHTLADELPHIA TO NEW- YORK. A Railroad, to go from Camden to Amboy, in New- Jersej'', will perhaps soon become a route for travellers. Going in a steamboat from Market or Arch-street wharf, the ship house, in the navy yard, is seen over the little island in the river. Near the upper part of the city are the ship yards ; and beyond, three glass houses near the water, with white walls and blafik IIORDENTOWN. 1:5 J loois. A steeple and a shot tower are the principal objects rising above the great mass of houses in the city. The banks of the Delaware are low, and present a uniformity ouite unfriendly to the picturesque. The towns are, however, inte'cstiiig^ in the history of tho Revolution, as will be seen a little beyond. BURM^GION, in New-Jersey, 18 miles from Philadelphia, presents a handsome appt:ar;mce ; with a row of fine residences facing the river, in front of which is a street with a beautiful sloping bank. I>Rl8TOL, a little above, and on the opposite side, has also a number ol gentlemen's seats ; and handsonie flower gardens on the bank,ortiainented with tint; will()ws,&c. A stage coach goes hence to Easton every day, on the arrival of the steamboat — price of a passage, $3. BoRDENTOWN, 38 miles from Philadelphia, and 7 below Trenton, stands on a steep sand bank, through which a road is cut to the water. Just north of the village is the house of Joseph Buonaparte, the Count de Survilliers, once king of Spain. It is a long white building, with two low square towers at the ends, and a shot tower near it by the river. Coal Haven is a little town on the west side of the river, six miles above, where arks and boats laden with coal from the Lehigh mines, await the boats that tow them to Philadelphia. Oo2 4:54 FRO.M rHILADELl'HIA TO NEW-VOllK. Trenton, 33 miles from Philadelphia. Here the Uni'^n Line Steamboats stop, except when the water is iow : when they sometimes land opposite Bordentown. Trenton is a town of considerable size, with a great number of stores, and the aspect of business- The bridge across the Delaware nas five arches, and is a hand- some structure. Lamberton is a village where the coach offices are, and apparently forms a part of Trenton. The State Prison is situated a little south of the town. In Dec, 1776, the English had 4000 men on the east side of the Delaware, in Trenton, Bordentown, Black- horse, and Burlington, with strong detachments at Princeton and New-Brunswick, with their magazines. On Christmas night, three divisions of the American troops attempted to cross the Delaware : one at Bristol for Burlington ; one a mile below Trenton ; and one nine miles above, under Washington and Greene. This was the lai^est, but principally militia ; it ap- proached Trenton by two roads, attacking- it at 8, A.M. very unexpectedly, and putting the English and Ger- man troops (about 1500) to the rout. Five hundred escaped ; the rest surrendered, being the regiments of Ralle, Anspach, and Knyphausen. Ralle was killed in resisting. The other divisions could not cross on account of the ice, and Washington returned with his captives and six pieces of artillery. This successful stroke greatly encouraged the country, as it was the first victory over those German mercenaries. Washington soon after re-crossed the river, and Eosted his army at Trenton. On the 2d of Jan.,1777> lOrd Cornwaltis reached Trenton ; and Washington fortified himself on the Assumpsick. But he was too weak to hazard an engagement j and the Delaware was filled with ice. 1 e € C t 1 ( riifN(n:T.)N. 4 ay ^eine: hardly pressed, Wasbingjlon had formed the plan of a retreat, expecting^ to be unable to remove any thing but the soldiers and what they could carr}', as the soil was so unfavourable, and the weather so mild and wet, that wagons could not pass. Corn- wallis had sent to Princeton for a regiinsnt to join him, that he might attack the Araericans immediately. In the niffht, however, Gen. Greene reported that the weather had suddenly become cold ; and at midnight, Washing-ton was able to bej^in his march, with all hi.-; baj?^sra|2je and artillery. The British had no intimation of their departure until they heard the guns firing at Princeton. PRINCETON, 10 miles. This village is situated on an elevated ridge of iand, which, on several sides, rises with a long and easy slope, and commands a prospect of considerable extent. In approaching it from the west, the Theological Academy, which is of stone and 4 stories high, is seen on the right ; and Nassau Hall in the centre of the town, opposite the stage house. The college yard is large and shaded with trees; and the burying ground contains the ashes of the presidents of the institution : Aaron Burr, Jonathan Edwards, Samuel Davis, Samuel Finley, John Wilherspoon, and Samuel S. Smith. Washington met at Stoney Brook, north of the present road, a little way from Princeton, and defeated the British regiment. He then marched north to the high grounds. During the battle of Princeton, it is related that a cannon shot entered the chapel, and tore away the head from a portrait of George III. : New-Brunswick. Here the steamboats start for New- York. The stage coaches drive through a part Qf the village to the steamboat wharf. The forenoon hne stops at the hotel^for the niffht. il 43e moK PHIlADKLPHIA TO NKW-YOKK. The view is pretty from the hill above ; whence tlie public buildings appear to ^ood advantage, particu< larly the Rutger's Theological Seminary, which is under the synod of the Dutch Reformed Church. The banks below are picturesque, but wfterward are low and little varied. In. the spring of 1777, Washington advanced from near Morristown to Middlebrook, where he intrenched himself on the heights, in full view of New- Bruns- wick. The British tried various slratagems to decoy him from this commanding position, and once suc- ceeded ; but discovfrtring their intcnlions to surround him, he quickly regained it, and they wew. soon after obliged to give up all hopes of pcrjelrating in this di- rection, and dfcvoted their attention to co-operating with Gen. Bur^oyne, who was coming down towards Albany. Perth Amboy, 13 miles. Here is usually some ship- ping. T' ere is an academy at this place on Capt. Partridge's plan. EHzabethtown P'drU^ 16 miles from New- York. The village is partly seen about 2 miles inland. Staten Island is large and elevated, with but few inhabitants, and a small cluster of houses. On entering New-York Bay, Fort Lafayette is seen in the Narrows, between Staten and Long Island, which is the passage to the sea. The city presents a close mass ot houses, with Castle Williams on Go- Ternor's Island, seen near it on the right ; and £His*s and Bedlow's Islands on the left, with their fortifica- tions. On approaching, the prominent objects are the tall pyramidal steeple of Trinity church, the more or- namented one of St. Paul's, ana the distant top of the Catholic Cathedral, &c. &c. The clusters of trees observed on the shore in front of the city, are on the Battery, a place once fortified, but now the principal public square ; and Castle Clinton, just west of it, is a place of amusement. {See th^ vignette, on (he iitlepage,) R $ S t( \ ii 2 .XriMNDjX. .Jl? ) « F()KI::iGN MONEYS. Reduced into those of the United States, dipar value. /I British Sterling is ll Irish is 1 fr. or 100 centimes (French) is $1 of plate or 20 reals pi. (Cadiz) is $1 of Havana 8 do. 1 milrea of Portugal or 1000 reas is 1 Ducat or 100 grains (Naples) is 1 Mark Banco or 16 shill. (Ham.) is 1 Rix Dol. or l^grotcs (^Bremen) is 1 Guilder or 40 grotes (Antwerp) is 1 Florinor20stivers of (Holland) is /I Halifax Currency {N. A. Prov.) is 1 dollar or 8 reals (Havana) is FOREIGN WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 4,441 4-9 Mills 4,102 32-39 do. 177i do. 1,000 do. 1,250 do. 777 1-B do. 333 1-3 do. 750 do. 400 do. 400 do. 4,000 do. 1,000 do. 4 Reduced into those of the United States. Great Britain is generally the same. The new im- perial measure, however, is about 3 per cent, larger than the Winchester, 22 gallons of the old being equal to 31 of the new imperial — ^one quarter contains 8 Winchester or American bushels. The fodder of Lead in London and Hull is 19i cwt. The tun of Oil, 252 gallons. — The last of Tar, 12 barrels. The load of Timber 50 cubic feet. FRANCE— 45 35 100 Kilogrammes are equal to 100 lbs. SPAIN— 1 arrobe is 25 lbs. Spanish equal to 24 4 arrobes, 1 quintal, 96 The barra varies from 271 to 33 1-8 ins. The same of Cadiz is 27} The arrobe of Wine and Oil is 4 gals. From 40 to 41 arrobes make I pipe. 4SB Al'l'JiJSlilA. 1 Fanega of Com and Salt is h bus. and 1 quart. 15 Fanegas are about 8. bus. PORTUGAL— 32 lbs. or 1 arrobe is 33 lbs. 4 arrobes or 1 quintal is 132 Cloth meas. 1 vara 43 1-7 ins. the covido26 1-3 ins. Wine 4 auarteels are 1 Canado or 3 pints. 12 Canados 1 almuda or 4t sh\s. The nioy of Corn and Salt at Lisbon is 24 bus. " ** at Oporto 30 " " in Figuieras 554 HAMRUHG— 1 lb. equal to 1 lb. 7 oz- 1 iispound 16 5 ANTWERP— 100 lbs. or quintal is 104 lbs. New qlt. of 10 myriagrainn.es 204 Ibs.l4 oz. Canada and Nova Scotia same as the United States. POUNDS AND DOLLARS. Sterling, Cents, Mills, Id, is 1 85 2 is 3 70 3 is 5 55 4 is 7 4» 5 is 9 ds e is U u 7 is 12 96 9 ^ IS 14 81 9 is 16 66 10 is 18 51 11 is 20 36 12 is 22 92 IND£X. s. A. Albany . . .39. 46 Alexandria {D, C.) . 387 Amboy ... 436 Ainhertt. . . . 282 Andre's Grave . . 23 Captu-e and Cxecation 39 Andovei' . . . 334 Anthony's Nose, Hudson River ... 26 on EHe Canal . . 57 Lake George , . 177 Antiquities 72. 83. 113. 124. 377 Aqueduct, Lower . 5b Upper^ . . 65 at Little Falls 01 Rochevter . 74 over the Delaware 33 Arnold's Treachery . 28 Armory .... 273 ArsenaiM Gibbonsville . . 49 ' Quebec . . 223 Ascutney Mountain . 290 Assotnption River . 213 Attlcboruugh . . . 315 Auburn ... 122 B. Baker's Fnllii . Bui N ton Springs Baltimore Bangor Bartiett . Basin Harbour . Batavia . Bath (Maine) . \N. H.) IN, ¥,) . Lun- 246 145 S89 380 352 189 115 376 295 15 Battle of Bemit'a Heightf Bi'nnington . • Bloody Brook Bridffewater, or dy'a Lane Bunker's Hill Chippewa . Erie Groton Johnstown Lake George Lexington Montmorency Pcquod . Plattsburgh Princeton Quebec Do. in 1775 Queenstown Rocky Brook Sachem's Field Saratoga Ticonderoga Trenton . Turner's Falls White Plains Beaufort Bellows Falls Bethlehem Beverly . Black Rock . Blackwell's Island Bloody Brook Pond Bloomfield . Blue Hills . Books recommended Borough B9?t«n 136 134 283 91 321 29 loe 298 67 170 333 SS3 247 191 435 230 ib. 81 165 905 135 174 434 295 22 231 288 427 363 109 248 283 166 116 316 19 181 318 J, ** 'vj imh:v. ■ Itordrntnwn . . . 433 Cntskill . 31 ItratticborougU . . 'JH? IMoiintainN 8S Bristol .... 433 CaiighnawaKa . 67 IJrocU'u Moniiroent » 8a Cayiiji^a Lake 120 Huttery . .226 JJi()«.kfield . . . 331 Cfnire Harbour . 341 Chambly . 288 JJufPulo . . . .100 CharlcHtown, Mass. . 320 llimker's Hill . . yi2 N. U. . 28H liur/roynfi's, Gen.j Expe- (■Iinzy . » 192 dition . . . IBS' Ch«>lm!>riir(i 33b .Tiattle Ground . . Mr, Chimney I'oint . IfiU QhnrterH . . 113 Chippewa . 89 isurrendcr . . . 160 Cititdel of Quebec . . 225 Burlington, N. /., . 433 Vermont . 190. i>93 Cincinnjiti . 401 Clnvtraclc . 38 U. Canada . 100 Clonvelantl . 398 IJytown . . . . i:09 Coal iMint'S of Pa. il4, &c. . K. Island . 309 C. Colle(j;es. Caldwell . . .166 Amherst . 2fi2 Cambridge . . . 824 An