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32X

PALMS AND PYRAMIDS.

LARGER OUTLOOKS

it^

/S^(s>

MISSIONARY LANDS

Descriptive Sketches of a Missionary Journey through

Egypt, Palestine, India, Burmah, Malaysia,

China, Japan, and the Sandwich

Islands

ats*-

.>--Z

Rev. a. B. SIMPSON

ly/ri/ OVER TWO hundred illustrations

NEW YORK S^/^f^ J

THE CHRISTIAN ALLIANCE PUBLISHING CO.
692 Eighth Avknub

Entered Recording to the act of Congress, in the yea. .893. by

A. B. SIMPSON,

I „ the office of the Librarian of Congress, at WaBhingtoB.

Atl. RIGHTS RESERVED.

THB ALt-IARCB PBBSa

TRINTrBS

134 WKST 2&TH 8T., H"W TO»K

PREFACE.

Thk following pages contain the substance of a number
of missionary letters, written from the East in the winter
and summer of 1893, with careful revisions and considerable
additions.

These letters were written in the course of a very rapid
journey ; and, while they had the advantage of the freshness
and inspiration suggested by the immediate presence ot the
scenes and incidents described, yet they may bear the marks
of haste, and they make no pretension whatever to literary

merit.

Under ordinary circumstances, their publication in per-
manent form would scarcely b"vo been justified ; but in this
case, a large constituency oi .xrsonal friends was kind
enough to insist upon the privilege of preserving, as a perma-
nent memorial, those messages from abroad, which they were
pleased to value at the time with an appreciation which we
cannot help crediting to their personal affection for the
writer, and their deep interest in the mission fields and work
described in these letters, rather than to any pre-eminent
value in the papers themselves.

. , .^.*.MiwM*ii jfiJ liiUlmtillU'miW^

' f

4 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

With a profound sense of this feeling on their part, the
author and publishers have endeavored to set these sketches
in as attractive a frame work as possible, and they sincerely-
trust this volume will be accepted by thousands of hearts, as
a loving memorial of the affectionate prayers that sustained
the author in his long journey with an intense and delight-
ful consciousness of a fellowship in Christ, stronger than
the barriers of space and time ; and that it will be con-
sidered a grateful acknowledgment of the loving co-operation
which these dear friends are still giving to him in the great
object of his life— to hasten the evangelization of the world
and the preparation of our Lord's return.

To promote this great end v as the object of his journey
abroad and the purpose which inspired these pages If the
reading of these sketches and the examination of the many
beautiful pictures accompanying them shall inspire a deeper
interest iu heathen lands in the hearts of even a few, and
shall lead the people of God to a more intelligent, self-deny
ing and heaven-baptized consecration to the one great desire
of the Master's heart, and the special work for whose ac-
complishment His coming waits— the world's immediate
evangelization— we shall greatly rejoice, and feel that the
labor bestowed on this modest message has not been in vain.

Once, it is said, a desert wanderer found a crystal spring
of surpassing freshness. The water was so pure that he felt
unworthy to drink it himself, and, after barely satisfying his
thirst, he filled a leathern bottle with the crystal liquid and
bore it across the desert as an offering to his chief.

PREFACE.

fc, the
itches
;erely
Is, as
ained
light-

than
I con-
ration

great
world

urney
If the
many
leeper
iT, and
-deny
desire
se ac-
ediate
it the
L vain,
spring
lie felt
nghis
d and

Days passed beneath the desert sun before he reached
the palace, and when he brought in his offering and laid it at
the feet of his master, it had become corrupted and putrid.
But the king would not let his faithful subject oven imagine
that the water was unfit for use. He tasted the water with
expressions of gratitude and delight, and sent back the loyal
heart filled with joy and gladness.

After he had gone, the princes asked to taste the water,
and expressed their intense disgust and surprise, that the
king could even pretend to enjoy it.

"Ah"! said the king, "it was not the water I tasted,
but the loyal love that prompted the offering, and made it a
most delightful draught, from the heart's crystal spring."

So our offering, like all that man can do, is marked by a
thousand imperfections ; but we believe our Master accepts
the motive, and we trust that He will make this message a
draught of blessing to His household.

At His feet we dedicate it, and to His name be all the
glory I

CONTENTS.

Thb Winter Sea
Days in England
On The Continent

IL
HI.
IV.

On The Blue Mediterranean

First Impressions of Egypt - ■

VI.

First Glimpses op Palestine

VIL

Days in Palestine

vni.
Under The Shadow of The Pyramids

IX.

IsMAiUA to Bombay

Our Work in Berar

Berar to Nellore and Madras

XIL

Madras to Bombay

XIIL

Bombay to Benares ...

XIV.

From The Himalayas to The Hooghly
t

103

123

151

167

188

204

230

■ •

CONTENTS.

XV.

Leaving India

XVL

Calcutta to Bubmah

• •

XVII.

Among The Malays

XVIII.

First Impressions of Southern China

XIX.

Missionary Work in Southern China

XX.

Shanghai and its Missionary Work

XXL

On The Yangtse

XXII.

Down The Yangtse .

XXIIL

To The Northern Capital

XXIV.

Last Glimpses of China

XXV.

The Missionary Outlook in China

XXVI.

First Glimpses of Japan -

XXVII.

Across Japan by Rail -

XXVIIL

Last Days in Japan

XXIX.

The Situation in Japan

XXX.

Home Coming

XXXL

The Missionary Outlook

353

274

294

81T

346

864

376

394

418

452

467

485

504

529

543

565

675

ass

294
817
846
864

876
894

418
452
467
485
504
529
643
565
675

ILLUSTRATIONS.

FULL PAGE ENGRAVINGS REPRODUCED FROM ORIGINAL
PHOTOGRAPHS AND FOREIGN PAINTINGS.

Palms and Pyramids

Port Said and the Northern End ok the Canai..

Ships ok the Desert. ...

Jakka krom the Sea.

Donkey and Veiled Lady. ...

Calvahy. --.•--

Jerusalem and the Mount ok Olives.

Bethany. -...--

Gethsemane. - . - - -

Bethel. - - - - •

The Nile and the Pyramids.

The Sphnix. . . . . -

Interior ok Moslem UNivERi^iTY ok Cairo.

Victoria Street, Bombay.

A Groups at Igatfuri.

Frontispiece.

O})p<M<teI>a0«.
40

(A Kodak Photograph).

- 45
50

- 58
70

.. 72

7<^

- 78
82

III
116
118
144
155

\* ^,~i ' i.^^^^r*m f

■^?r

I ^

IV.

ILLUSTRATIONS.

The Girls' Orphanagk.

The Christian Alliance Convention, Akola.

A Roadside Scene. - - ^ '

r\. j!^Kjn.uz, ^^ Kodak Photograph).

Mr. Simpson and Coolie Cart. ^ - .'

lYiK. vjx™ .:. ^^ Kodak Photogfraph).

Bangalore. - - ■ " *

On the Road to Mahabalashur. -

VJJN 1 nn J>.w ^^ Yio&aii. Photograph).

On the Road to the Ghauts. ^ . '

Kjss i.B.j^ >■ (A Kodak Photograph).

The Gospel of Healing, in Marathi. -

John iii: i6, in Marathi.

In the Garden of the Taj^^^ ;,„,„,„;,,

Side View op the Taj. ^^ ^-^^^ p,„,;^,p,, "

The Taj, Agra. - - * *

T?TioNT View op the Taj. ' ,.» * "

TROWl Viivvy (A Kodak Photograph).

Benares. - - - -

Darjeeling. --"'*'
Palms in Royal Botanical Gardens, Calcutta.

The Image of Gautama, Rangoon.
ShwEE-da-gone Pagoda, Rangoon.

Shwee-da-gone Pagoda. . - - •

A Malay Coffee Plantation.
The Traveller's Palm. . - -

A Malay Village. . - - -

SBC

! i

IV.

ILLUSTRATIONS.

The Girls' Orphanagk.

The Christian Alliance Convention, Akola.

A Roadside Scene. - " ^ . Ix

ri. ivw^ .3 ^^ Kodak Photograph).

Mr. Simpson and Coolie Cart. ^ - .'

i»ijx.. wxi a (A Kodak Photograph).

Bangalore. - - " ' *

On the Road to Mahabalashur. -

^^ (A Kodak Photograph).

On the Road to the Ghauts. ^ . * ^

^^ * (A Kodak Photograph).

The Gospel oe Healing, in Marathi. -
John hi: i6, in Marathi. - - '

In the Garden of the Taj. - -

J.IN ixi« v^ (A Kodak Photograph).

^TDP View of the Taj. - " ^v '

OIDl!, V liiw wr J ^^ vioAt^V Photograph).

The Taj, Agra. - - ' "

I^RONT View op the Taj. - •

r KU« ± V i» ^^ Kodak Photograph).

Benares. - " " '

Darjeeling. - - " ' '

Palms in Royal Botanical Gardens, Calcutta.

The Image of Gautama, Rangoon.

Shwke-da-gone Pagoda, Rangoon.

Shwee-da-gone Pagoda. - - •

A Malay Coffee Plantation.

The Traveller's Palm. . - •

A MalavVillage.

ILL USTRA TIONS,

A MAI.AY Family. - . • •

Hong Kong. . - - -

Thk Temple of Five Hundred Gods, Cantow.
Chinese Lady Embroidering. - -

^ Reproducedfrom a Chinese Painting.

Chinese Priest and Temple. - -

Reproduced from a Chinese Painting.

Gate of Woosung Fort, Shanghai.
Chinese Idols, Shanghai. - -

Pagoda, Shanghai. . - - •

A Group of Chinese Missionaries.
Temple at Hankow. - - - •

The "Little Orphan," Yangtse River.

Rafting.
Ching Kiang.

Reproduced from a Chinese Painting.

Chinese Buffalo Carts. - -

(^ « ir< nao u Reproduced from a Chinese Painting.

The Temple of HEA^^N. -

Chinf.se Sawing Lumber. - " . ., *

V-tn« r.OD w. Reproduced from a Chinese Painting.

A Chinese Family. - - ■

Interior of a Mandarin's Apartments.
Chinese Punch and Judy. - -

^" Reproduced from a Chinese painting.

Japanese Travelling AT Night. - •

J fYrft.« iw Reproduced from a Japanese Painting.

Image of Kuradani, Kyoto.

Temple of Three Thousand Gods, Tokio. •

3"
321

329
335
340
365
367
368
379
386

396
411
416
432

438
448

456
460
462
504
495
509

LARGER OUTLOOKS

MISSIONARY LANDS

LARGER OUTLOOKS

MISSIONARY LANDS

■- WMlWttJ-'W WI^

1 ii

.L.

THE WINTER SEA.

IT would not have seemed quite consistent if the "Servia"
had started on time. So she sailed half an hour behind
time, and our friends were critical enough to say it was
because we were on board.

For more than a month we had been getting ready to go
away, and in order to gain a little on the already full
schedule time, we had been obliged to work from sixteen to
twenty hours a day. The last few nights we had scarcely
dared to trust ourselves to a good sleep, and so it was a
strange sensation to find ourselves oo the "Servia" with an
hour, nay, a week, perhaps, of actual leisure.

We cannot thank the Master enough for the delightful
courtesies amid which we were permitted to begin our lonely
journc> . The. farewell meetings in the Tabernacle were full
of the Spirit of God and the simple, hedrt-felt kindness of
His people. Thinking of twelve years ago, we felt like
Jacob, when he said : "With my staff I passed over this
Jordan ; and now I am become two bands."

We were permitted to leave quietly, only about a dozen

.- ' ^ f^/ asTgii/^if?*r*'tf^i«i_'-' ,". ■7'ii' '(■-^ r ."■

«-.»*,»',K^;W»^»-V<-' -r-

LARGER Ol Tl.OOk'S ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

friends breaking through our request and accoinpanyiug us
to the ship. We felt the sharp strain of many thousand heart-
strings, but a eweet sense of God's approval and the unity
and sympathy of all our dear friends in the purpose of our
journey.

We left New York amid bitter cold, and our ship cut her
way all the way down the Bay through thick and heavy ice.
But when we got out to sea, we found the waves still and
calm, and a mighty Presence seemed walking on the waters.
It is blessed to go forth encompassed by such a cloud of
prayer.

Before twenty-four hours had passed, however, we had
a taste of the winter sea ; and our second night on board was
so rough that the trunks went crashing in all directions in
the tossing ship, and few slept much. It was the effect of
an old storm that had passed ere we came to sea. For
twenty-four hours the sea ran very high, and we all kept
quiet. By the evening of the third day the waters calmed,
and we were able to do some work again.

On Wednesday we sailed into the Gulf Stream, and
Thursday was almost like a summer day— the south wind
laden with balm, and the sky clear and bright.

Most of our passengers are English people. It is a good
school for character study. How comfortable and self-com-
placent some people are ! It was refreshing to see a middle-
aged Englishman knock his head against the hanging frame
full of wine glasses, and smash some of them, and then
summon the steward, and ask, with immense dignity, how

THF. LISTER SEA.

« this extraordinary thing could have happened.' We shoiUd
have been covered with confiiwon and apologies, and ready
to pay for the broken glasses ; but this comfortable gentle-
man seemed to expect an apology from the steward, and
even from the wine glasses for hitting his head, or being
there at all. Well, there are people and people. How some
people waste their time ! What would they not give at the
end for a Uttle ? And yet they throw years away at the be-

^'°The fai-ther we get from the hallowed influences of
home, the more do we feel the need of Christian fellowship
and prayer, and the more do we thank the blesse<l Comforter
for the bonds of communion that cross all seas and conti-
nents, and flash their messages of love and sympathy from
land to land. The chronometer of our ship has gamed
nearly four hours since we left New York, but the clock of
the heart keeps time to a second from heart to heart all
around the world.

Yesterday was our Friday Meeting m .\ew York. But
we needed no calendar to tell us when it was three o'clock
on Friday afternoon. The very cloud of the Sanctuary
gathered round us, and we were held for three blessed hours
hi the innermost chamber, and at the very gate of heaven
We could almost feel the breath of those holy prayers, and
for hours afterwards the sweetness hngered like the twilight
after sunset, or the fragrance of a spice-laden ship from

some tropical isle.

And so we are taking our dear readers with us as we go

12 LARci h' orri.ooKS ox nrrssioyAKV i.ANPS.

forth in their name and yis to look over a lost world, and
seek to find some yet wiser way to win it for His crown.

Perhaps they will forgive these simple, personal lines
that have come to us as we have thought of those we love,
and longed for their sympathy and prayei- :

ALL AROUNd THE WOr'.D.

All around the world I journey,

Over many a land ;
Bearing forth the great comniisBlon,

At the Lord's oominand.
Many a danger lies around me,

Many a dart is hurled,
But I know His love will guard me

All around the world.

There are cables underlying

Every ocean wide,
Chords of lo*e and prayer are stronger

Than the Atlantic's tide.
There's a ladder up to heaven,

Everywhere we roam ;
And the gates of prayer can never

Find us far from home.

Hold me closely every moment

In the arms of prayer ;
Lfct me feel your fragrant oenserB
' With me everywhere.

Let rae know, as ever onward

I am swiftly whirled,
Hosts unseen are marching with me

All around the world.

Brothers, let us stretch our heartstrings

Wide as human woe,
All around this world of sorrow,

Let our blessing go.

I .1

THE WINTER SEA, 13

Over every land and nation

Be HlH flag unfnrlod ;
• Send the goHiM>l quickly, quickly,
All around the -world.

With early dawn on Sabbath morning, Jannary 21, we
sighted Fastnet Lighthouse, Ireland'H first landmark. We
had sailed along an invisible pathway across tlu» unmarked
Bea and the unerriug compass had guided us within an mch
of our aim. The navigator's faith had located that promon-
tory there, and lo ! the vision of actxial sight found it real.
So our faith in God should sail in trackless waters and find
the soUd reality answer to our trust.

We had scarcely come abreast of the shore line when
the fog-whistle began to soimd, and we were enveloped in a
cloud as sudden as it was dense. But it lifted as quickly as
it came, and in a hour we were steaming up to Queenstown
Harbor in a blaze of warmth and sunlight worthy of the na-
tional character. It seemed as if old Ireland was smiling all
over in token of the welcome she was giving to the pastor
and associate of some of her children in America.

A loveher day we had never seen. After the cold winter
sea it was indeed most cheering, and our inmost spirit kept
whispering all day, "Then they are glad because they be
quiet, so He bringeth them to their desired haven. ' We
just caught the " Etruria" in time to send our mails back to
New York by her. Had we been an hour later our friends
would have had to wait a week longer for their letters

from us. , X ^

We waited at Queenstown only long enough to send

I..iNUl:h- Of n.OOhS i>.\ J//XV/OA /A')- f.AMKS.

urthore » '^-w i>usHengers, and wvon hundred mail bags from
all wenteiu lands, including a great lot from China and
Japan, and then we steamed away to LiveriK)ol.

( )ur own guoenstown mail brought uh kind letters of
welcome from England and Sweden, with enough invitations
to kw'p u« from feeling lonesome in London.

Midnight brought us to Holyhead. Long and late .ve
lingere<l on deck watching the fascinating play oi the lights
along the shoren of old England. The system is a i)erfect
alphabet of naval signals. Some were red, some yellow,
some white, most of them Hash lights, but with such differ-
ent kinds of flashes ! Some would disappear altogether for a
minute, then return ; others would wink three times in quick
succession and then blaze away for two or three minutes ;
and othei-8 hide their torches at regular intervals of ten sec-
onds. We could see how a pilot could easily read the very
names of every station along that bold and dangerous shore.
Oh, that each of us might have a light so definite, so dis-
tinct, so clear and intelligible, that both earth and heaven
might read it every moment, and others sail by it on life's
dangeroxis sea ! And happy might we be, if, like these lights
on the coast of Wales, even our very moments of obscura-
tion and trial might only give to our shining a more em-
phatic and vivid glory and significance, so that our dark-
ness and our light might 'ooti- dil'e glorify our Father in
heaven, and bless and heir onv fv 5'>^v men.

8 from
la and

tens of
tatioiiB

ate W6
i lights
perfect
yellow,
1 differ-
er for a
n quick
linutes ;
ten sec-
he very
8 shore.
, 80 dis-
heaven
on life's
36 lights
abscura-
lore em-
ir dark-
ather in

11.
DAYS IN ENGLAND.

MONDAY uioiuing, quite early, we wove sent ushoiv
Liveri)ool, on the Cunard tender. We werr met
the dock by our kind and attt'iitive English agentb
and they showed us every courtesy, helped us through the
custom house, sent off our telegra ns and letters, and saw us
to the train for London. Mr. Mili^ gave us very interesting
information about our, recent missi niary parties. He spok-
especially of dear Clara Stromberg of the Congo party, and
h(.w she had endeared herself to niMiy friends in Liverpool.
Her face and voice were the last and brightest memor-
ies of the large party that had saileci out of Liverpool last
summer for the Congo. Dear Clara swept swiftly tluough
her heavenly orbit, but it was a ver. bright one, and now
she is shining and singing over yonder

Liverpool was thick with fog as Q leenstown was bright
with sunshine. We asked a young mai in the hotel if it was
often thus. He said he had not seen the ^un for four months ;
bat he added, with a cmel bit of selfish omfort, it was noth-
ing to London. It was Dean Ramsay, e believe, who told
of the Scotchman who, when asked by disgusted traveler
"if it always rained thei-e," good naturedly answered:
"Na, na ; it sometimes snaws."

(.S

l6 LARGER orri.OOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

Well, rain or snow, beautiful England is beautiful all the
same ! Here, in January, as we ride through the valleys and
l)lains of Derbyshire, the fields are almost as green as sum-
mer ; the farmers are plowing, the sheep and cattle are graz-
ing in the pastures, the ground is covered with crows ; there
is no frost nor snow, and even the hedges have just been
pruned, and are waiting to send out their fiist buds and
branches in a little while.

What causes all this general f ruitfulness ? We are far
north of the latitude of New York. It is the Gulf Stream
from the tropics, that bears a perpetual tide of balm and
blessing to these ocean isles. Oh, if our spiritual lives could
only abide in the great Stream of Life and Love that comes
flowing down from the Summer Land beyond the unseen
sea, what a temperature we should enjoy, what fniitful lives
we should have !

" There'd be no sorrow in our song,
No -winter in our year."

We reached London on exact time, and found friends
waiting to welcome us. The home of dear Mr. and Mrs.
Brodie is a home indeed, and has been the hospitable resting-
place of all our outgoing missionarios. Words cannot express
the obligations of the Alliance for the kindness of these dear
friends, who combine the second and third epistles of John
in very deed, and are the Gains and the Elect Lady of our
precious work. We found that dear Peter Scott had left and
passed us on the way, returning on the ' ' Germanic. "

1 1

'■'• ~-U~.

DA YS /jV ENGLAND.

1 all the
leys and
as sum-
ire graz-
3 ; there
1st been
uds and

3 are far
Stream
aim and
,res could
it comes
B unseen
tful lives

i friends
and Mrs.
e resting-
)t express
hese dear
s of John
dy of our
d left and

We found our friends in Jjondon had arranged to make
the most of om- time, and we are having a busy and blessed
week.

Monday night we had the pleasure of addressing a meet-
ing at the Friends' Meeting House, and met some choice
spirits.

Tuesday found us in the City, busy enough, at our agents,
our shipping office, and many other places. We were per-
mitted an interview with the Honorable Secretary of the
Church Missionary Society, and obtained some most valua'-;l'.
information i-especting the Soudan, and especially the Niger
and Binnue Rivers. We were able also to make satisfactory
arrangements with Messrs. John Snow & Co., Ivy Lane,
London, for a full supply of our Alliance books, tracts, and
weekly papers to be kept in London.

In the evening a very kind reception had been arranged
for us through the courtesy of Miss Gurney and others.
The meeting was held at the Hall, Adam Street, Strand, and
was attended by many of the Christian workers of London,
and those especially who had become interested in our work.
It was a touching surprise and we trust a blessing to many.
The Lord ""/vras present in great power, especially in the after
meeting for prayer, which was one of the most blessed and
solemn we have ever felt. The Lord permitted us to speak
a little of the work, and more of Himself, and we were con-
scious of a delightful sympathy and fellowship of heart.
Among those present were Miss Gurney, Rev. Evan Hop-
kins, Rev. F. B. Meyer, Rev. Mr. Mantel, Mr. and Mrs.

'l-'^?^^*l^»£=!''^"«^ -ITB*'..-.

l8 LARGER orrLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

Eeader Harris, Mrs. J. Hudson Taylor, Mr. and Mrs. Brodie,
Prof. Bartlett, Miss Fannie Gregson, of Ceylon, and many
others. Their loving sympathy was a breath of cheer on our
long, lonely journey to the East.

We have just heard from our Swedish party, and they
will be here to-morrow, 7). T., on their way to Southampton
and China. We had the pleasure to-day of calling at Fins-
bury Square, where our India party of missionaries stayed,
and we were rejoiced to hear the gracious words of the Super-
intendent and others respecting the blessing tbey left behind
them. They are now on their way to India, and the last
section will arrive about February 1.

Wednesday morning fomid ns at our business agents,
our bankers and the Foreign Office, arranging for passports,
vises, etc., in order to be able to go to Egypt and Palestine.
In the afternoon we went to Bethshan, and met many
dear old friends. We felt the cloud of blessing as we turned
the corner, and we knew God was still there. Mrs. Baxter
was there, and led the meeting. Mi-s. Boardman was also
]»resentwith her quiet, triumphant spirit, after all the changes
and trials of eight yeai-s. Mrs Brodie has also become a reg-
ular worker at Bethshan, although this afternoon she was
called out to attend a meeting of Jewesses in another room.
Miss Murray is at present in Sweden, although she still re-
tains her relation to the work. The Wednesday meeting is
regulariy kept up at Bethshan HaU, and God still owns the
work and testimony by His healing power.

But the Bethshan Home has been changed, and is now

■f 1.1

7W.

re. Brodie,
and many
eer on our

, and they
ithamptou
g at Fins-
ies stayed,
the Super-
eft behind
id the last

3SS agents,
passports,
I Palestine,
met many
, we turned
[rs. Baxter
n was also
the changes
come a reg-
3n she was
•ther room.
3he still re-
meeting is
U owns the

and is now

DA YS IX ENGLAND.

used not for gu^ :<ts who come to seek for healing, but as a
Training Institute for Missionaries. The friends in charge
felt that the various local homes indifferent parts of England
were meeting the need which it has supplied, at least in some
measure, and that more could be accomplished for God, for

LONDON.

the present, at least, by using it to meet the increasing needs
of the missionary training work.

This work has grown steadily and substantially. Mr.
and Mrs. Mueller, the former superintendents, have them-
selves gone out to India as superintendents of the mission in
Berar that has grown out of this Institute ; but a Christian

LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MLSSIONARY LANDS.

worker, formerly in Ceylon, has taken their place, and, as-
sisted by Mrs. Baxter and others, is carrying on a most excel-
lent work, and has a school of about twenty-five students.
We have one of them, Mr. Bannister, in our work in Akola,
and he is doing good service. We met one or two others
who may yet be used of God in the Alliance mission work.

The Wednesday meeting at Bethshan was large and
blessed, and many kind greetings cheered us on our way, and
our important and most responsible journey was committed
to God in solemn and believing prayer, for the wisdom and
blessing we should so nmch require.

Among the many kind friends who came a long distance
to meet us were our dear old friends, the Rivoltas, formerly of
Blackheath, and Rev. Mr. Gregson, formerly of India, and his
daughter, dear Miss Fanny Gregson, of Ceylon, whose little
journal of brave and independent mission work has been
coming to us for a good while, with bright words of testimony
and experience. We hope to meet her later in Ceylon. Mr.
Gregson has some very strong convictions on the subject of
Holy Ghost mission work, derived from his experience in
India, and is one of the few men who fully realize that the
evangelization of the world must pass out of the hands of
man into the hands of thelivingGod if this generation iseven
to hear the gospel. We are glad to learn that the Keswick
and other great spiritual Conferences are becoming more m-
tensely aggressive and missionary.

One of our most valuable mornings was the one spent
with good Hudson Taylor, who so courteously gave us that

• » IJI« I LM I B I U«I I WI» l lll H i»"« l' '" l ''"' l liWTI

■)S.

DAY'S IN ENGLAND.

, and, as-
ost excel-
students.
in Akola,
"^o others
I work,
large and
way, and
ommitted
sdom. and

g distance
)rmerly of
ia, and his
hose httle
has been
testimony
rlon. Mr.
subject of
terience in
,e that the
s hands of
ion is even
e Keswick
; more in-
one spent
ve us that

precious thing whose value we ho fully appreciate — his time
— without stint. We need not say how much we were helped
and how fully this honored leader of the most successful mis-
sionary work of our time was both able and willing to meet
the many practical questions we are called to face, with his
modest counsel and long experience.

There is no country in the world where missionary work
Jias to meet more difficulties and to be can'ied on with more
humble, holy wisdom than China. The mistakes of one mis-
i^ionary not only hurt his own work, but may cripple a hun-
dred other missionaries by the reflex action. A riot incited
in one city by the act of a missionary has been known to lead
to the destruction of life and property hundreds of miles away.
There are things which cannot be done in China that may be
done anywhere else. We need to pray much for all the
workers in that land that they may ever have the very miud
of Christ. We have always had the hearty sympathy and
co-operation of the authorities and missionaries of the China
Inland Mission, and we were mvich cheered by Dr. and Mrs.
Taylor's kindness.

One of our chief objects in staying a few days in England
was to meet the outgoing Swedish missionaries. Phis also
we were permitted to do, much better than if we had gone to
Sweden. We found, as we expected, that they had been in
England for some time. Three of them came to London to
meet us, and we went down to Southampton to meet the rest,
and spent Thursday afternoon and evening with them. It
was a meeting of great importance, enabling us to get per-

i<B?*t*'fegt-.-i"»:-,^.'?r-i5?' '

i pUJ"

22 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MLSSIONARY LANDS.

sonally and quite well acquainted with each of the party, and
judge, as we never could have done otherwise, of the wisest
course to advise in connection with this important move-
ment.

We have been very much touched to find the wider and
deeper interest in our Alliance work which expresses itself
from many quartere. We could spend a month very profita-
bly in England, Scotland, and Ireland in meeting the calls
that so kindly come. There is a blessed fellowship of prayer,
love, and mutual help and service. We are sorry we cannot
stay now, but will return, if the Lord will.

We left London Friday afternoon, after a few busy,
blessed days, by a limited express train, with a view, D.V.,
to catch the Mediterranean steamer at Brindisi. It was a real
pain to pass dear friends who had written us from Geneva,
Bale, and Rome, to tarry with them by the way. It was very
hard to give up the proffered pleasure and blessing of meet-
ing that great and good man of God, Stockmeyer, at Bale,
but we could not do so without missing a week on the Medi-
terranean, and having to leave out a few brief days, if the
Lord will, at dear Jerusalem.

Our last hours in London were by no means idle. Some
gddd friends came in to meet us in English fashion at break-
fast and morning prayers, .and a party of missionary candi-
dates from Scotland were waiting later, whom we were glad
to meet. Then an hour or two with our stenographer-a
great lot of letters of importance •, an hour or two in the city
with our agents and business correspondents, and we were
ready to go to our special train.

)..u„>mauuJiiJ^4i. | |i. Hn 1 1 . ■

irty, and
he wisest
it move-

nder and
3ses itself
y profita-
the calls
5f prayer,
ire cannot

'ew busy,
ew, D.F.,
was a real
I Geneva,
t was very
; of meet-
ir, at Bale,
, the Medi-
ays, if the

lie. Some
I at break-
lary candi-
were glad
grapher — a
in the city
id we were

DAY'S IN ENGI..\Xn.

We cannot sufficiently praise God for the wonderful help
given us in our very short visit to London, in enabling us to
meet every one of the engagements we had counted upon, and
accomplishing so much that was upon our heart. Even at
the last moment He graciously interposed to prevent our
missing our train. We had got through all our work and
left in good time, with twenty minutes to spare, at the Cannon
Street Station; but, unfortunately, our kind agents, who had
taken such constant trouble with us, and arranged everything
so satisfactorily about our tickets and passages, had sent us
to the wrong station, and we found, at twenty minutes to
three, that we had yet to go all the way to Channg Cross, in
the West End, more than two miles distant, or miss our train,
and with it our steamer at Brindisi, and lose a whole week.

Our kind friends who were with us thought it impossible,
but we lifted our heart to God in a quiet prayer, and told our
driver to rush to Charing Ci-oss, promising him an extra
shilling if he got us there in time. We felt at rest, and knew
that if we missed our train God would have something better.
To make it more evident that God always loves to use the
weak and foolish things of this world, our hoi-se was old and
stiflf, and even the prospect of an extra shilling did not seem
to put much new life into him. But God was equal to the emer-
gency, and we got to Charing Cross with just three minutes
to register our baggage for Italy, get our ticket stamped,
hasten our things on board, say a hurried but loving good-bye
to dear Mr. and Mrs. Brodie, and get off with an infinite sense
of His quiet and loving care, while we learned with sorrow^

24 LARGER OUTLOOKS OS MLSSIOXARV LANDS.

that a dear lady was left behind notwithstanding the impor-
tunities an.l entreaties of her friend, who only got the answer :
*' We are going all the way to Sidney, Australia, and we can-
not stop for anyone."

English officials in such an emergency are invaluable.
There is a man with brass buttons for almost every conceiv-
able thing you want, and a sixpence will accomplish wonders.
Upon the whole, the railway service of England and Lon-
don is most excellent and convenient. Constant express
trains run on all the leading railways, and, if you know the
city, you can go almost anywhere in a very short time. Om-
nibuses go everywhere, and for a penny you can ride a long
distance. There is no better way to enjoy the streets of Lon-
don than from the top of an omnibus. But the hansom is a
convenience and luxury too little known in America. For a
shilling you can go anywhere within reasonable distance at
a very quick pace, for they all drive fast, and their simple
form enables them to thread streets and crowded passages
where a carriage could not go. Then, you can find one al-
most anywhere. We saw the number 15,000 on one, and
there are more even than that number in London. For a few
shUUngs one can accomplish more business a a day in London
than you could do in New York in two.

As if to enable us to see much in a little, we had the
opportunity of seeing a real London fog the day we left.
There was much of what we would call fog every day ; but
when we asked our friend if that was a London fog, he
smiledatourinexperience,andsaid,"Whyno,thisissM>w/itne."

D.I ) .V /A' ENGLAND.

e impor-
answer :
I we can-

valuable.

conceiv-
wonders.
and Lon-
b express
know the
ne. Om-
ie a long
bs of Lon-
nsom is a
!a. For a
istance at
3ir simple

passages

nd one al-

i one, and

For a few

in London

<?e had the
y we left.
' day ; but
)n fog, he
sunshine."

But that morning, as we got down into tlie heart of the city,
there was something we could feel as well as see. The air
was literally thick, the smell of escaping coal gas was every-
where, the lamps, gas jets, and electric lights were all lighted
both inside and out ; and as we looked up into the sky, a
strange yellow glare, like mud, seem to hang overhead, giving
everything such a lurid look. " This is a London fog," said
our friend ; "but we often have it much worse than this."
Keally it was not a fog at all, we believe, for it was bright
ar-d clear all around London ; but the smoke of the soft coal,
and the dust of the streets, was held somehow in suspension
by a peculiar condition of the atmosphere, and forced back
into people's eyes and throats.

Notwithstanding all this, we must say the climate of
:Engic;nd, even in winter, is delightful. Even in southern France
we passed through six inches of snow, and London was almost
as warm as early spring all the time we were tiiere. It is a
wonderful little isle, and has much good within its rock-bound
.shores, although one feels the lack of that freedom and spring
jou are conscious of in our American atmosphere.

Most English audiences are a little heavier and less respon •
isive than ours. And yet we must say we have rarely felt deeper,
fuller tides of power and blessing than in the meetings we were
j)ermitted to take part in Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday
in London. At the last moment we had a very pleasant mis
sionary surprise in being permitted to meet, just on the eve
of their departure for the field, the two dear missionaries of the
new Soudan mission, Mr. White and his asso.'-te, who, for

a6 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MLSSIONARY LANPS.

two yeai-fl, have been trying to penetrate? the Soudan, and
reach Lake Tchad, from Tripoli or Morocco, on thi^ coast,
by the caravan route that passes through the desert to l^vKe
Tchad and the Sokoto and Bornu country, They have now
abandoned that el ort, and are on their way to the Niger, with
a view to attempt to reach the Soudan by the very route
that our dear young friends, Mr. Gowans, Mr. Robb, and
others desire to attempt. We had a Uttle convereation witli
them amid the hurry of departure, xnd they have promised
to write us fully. They seem to be young Englishmen of the
right sort of stuff for pioneers. They are attempting the
most hazM-douB journey of modern missions.

We had an hour's conversation with the Hon. Secretary
of the Church Missionary Society on this very subject. After
two years or more of the most indefatigable and wise effort,
on the part of Mr. Wi'nv)t Brooke and several others, to es-
tablish a base of operations at Lakoja, at the mouth of the
Binnue, the result so far is that Mr. Brooke has sacrificed hi&
life, his English associates have either died or returned ; and
there is not a single white man at Lakoja, and but few at the
mouth of the Niger or anywhere on it. They are reinforcing
at present their Niger force, and a party of Englishmen is
going out soon, but they do not advise, at present, any at-
tempt to go further into the interior, nor have we been able,
as yet, to advise our dear young brethren in America to as-
cend the iJinnue at present, but rather to wait developments
in connection with the movement already on foot there.

We are the more confirmed in this view since meeting

ian, and
lo coast,
to Tiiike
ave now
^er, with
ry route
M), and
lion with
promiped
en of the
sting the

Secretary
t. After
se effort,
srs, to es-
ith of the
rificed his
rned ; and
:ew at the
?inforcing
ishmen is
t, any at-
jeen able,
rica to as-
elopments
here.
e meeting

DAY'S /.V ENGLAND.

*
r

this party, who are on their way to this very spot, and from
whom we liope to hear in tlie spring. We beUeve that if any
persons can find such an enterprise practicable they can.
They are men of true and bold faith, and havti already had a
valuable experience with the people of North Africa, besides
having the language. We shall be glad to follow on as God
clearly otiens the way, but we do not feel that we are called
upon to inaugurate what really must prove a great and haz-
ardous enterprise of missionary exploration. But this move-
ment on the part of these bold pioneers deserves our warmest
sympathy, and we shall be glad to know, ere very long, that
the way is open for our direct co-operation.

III.

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

OUR route lay from Loudon to Dover, and Dover to Calais.
We found, for once, the English Channel as still as a mill-
pond, and were able to walk the deck and watch for the
headlights of France. The flash light at Calais is a maguift-
cent revolving light, sending out great ribbons of electric
brilliancy that seem as if they might reach a hundred miles.
We found ourselves at Calais in something more nearly
resembling an American Pullman train than anything we
have yet seen abroad. It has a dining car and a sleeper, with
very considerable comfort. The train ran through, with-
out change, in forty-eight hours to Brindisi, and is a great
convenience. »■

Twenty-four hours from London brought us to Modane,
at the entrance to the Mont Cenis tunnel. It is now just
twenty-three years since we crossed these Alps the first time,
and stopped also at Modane, on oui way from Turin. But then
it took us nearly an entire day. To-day we passed through
the tunnel in twenty-five minutes and reached Turin within
four hours. At that time we crossed the mountains by the
little zizzag railway that ran over the tops of the passes.
We could still see the old track and telegraph poles to-day,
but we suppose it is never used except, perhaps, for mountain

;o Calais.
as a mill-
h for the
maguifi-
; electric
ed miles,
re nearly
;hing we
per, with
h, with-
is a great

Modane,
now just
irst time,
But then
. through
in within
19 by the
le passes.
Bs to-day,
mountain

ACROSS TIIE CONTINENT.

views, which are veiy fine. The tunnel under Mont Cenis
had just been completed that year, 1870, but was not opened ;
but we saw the works on the French side, and were told how
wonderfully the engineers of both countries had succeeded

PARIS.

in excavating and tunneling up an incline from each side, so
as to let the water run oflF, and yet meet in the centre in
perfect line. The tunnel is a great success, and enables the
express train to go through from Pa is to Turin in nineteen
hours, and from London to Brindisi in forty-eight hours,
thus bringing Bombay within seventeen days of London,
instead of two months, as it used to be before the days of the

30 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

Tunnel and the Suez Canal. The tunnel is nine miles long,
and we passed through it without the slightest discomfort,—
indeed, taking our lunch all the way through.

We found snow all through France; and, indeed, it

ALPINE SCENE.

would seem to a passing traveler, to be a thousand miles
north of England, so different was the climate. The favored
British Isles lie in the warm current of the Gulf Stream, and
have, indeed, an exceptionally mild climate. Snow con-

WD»9^pe,!!Si!f»PV?VM«<«

RBWffifc'«W»^lW.r «t""-

\IDS.

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

miles long,
(comfort, —

indeed, it

usand miles

The favored

Stream, and

Snow con-

tinued until we reached Bologna. Indeed, this has been a
bitterly cold winter in Europe, and there must be great
suffering.

At Ancona it began to grow spring-like, and after Fog-
gia, for the last 120 miles, we were in the summer land of

Southern Italy. The
route lay along the
shores of the Adri-
atic, and its blue
and placid waters
were covered with
white sails. We
could count more
than twenty at one
time from our car
window. The towns
and villages are
very old and pic-
turesque. These
plains and valleys
have heard the
march of eighty
generations. The
houses are mostly pure white, some being highly tinted, but
all artistic. The Italian cannot make a cabin or railway
station without putting beauty and dignity into the lines.
Some towns, like Ostuni, for example, stand on the very
summit of a bold and precipitous hill, and with their white

ITALIAN LAZZARONI.

LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

towers and domes are very striking. The Italian people are
always most interesting. Still the soldier is to be seen on guard
at nearly every station, and the lazzaroni, with their countless
devices for getting a few centesimi. The women do not seem so
picturesque in their head-dresses as they used to be ; we sup-
pose Italy is getting modernized, like every thing else. The
shepherds were in the fields, all over Southern Italy, with
their sheepskin coats and ancient cloaks, and their great
flocks. We saw one little boy, of about ten, herding a flock
of more than a hundred lambs, and we thought of something
even the children can do for Christ. If they cannot work
like older people, they can be a blessing to one another.
The gardens, orchards, and vineyards were luxuriant.
Thousands of acres were covered with olive trees, and their
leaves were, of coui-se, green. There were orange trees and
some fine groves at Brindisi, but they vre mostly found ia
Sicily, a little further south.

NDS.

■ -*i^r

1 people are
eu on guard
sir countless
not seem so
3e ; we sup-
else. The
Italy, with
their great
iing a flock
I something
annot work
ae another,
luxuriant.
s, and their
;e trees and
tly found ia

IV.
ON THE BLUE MEDITERRANEAN.

WE reached Brindisi in good time for our steamer,
which had come round from London, by way of
Gibraltar and Malta, and been over ten days on her
route already. We had to wait for the late mail from Lon-
don, and stayed up to get some important letters which we
expected. We had dictated a very large mail to our stenog-
rapher ia London, but, like most Enghshmen, we could not
hurry him, so we had to come away without our letters, and
have tb<jm sent on after us, for us to sign and dispatch on
the way.

That evening at Brindisi was worth remembering. It
let us see a little both of Italian and English wickedness in a
seaport town. Boys not ten years old were running about
as agents for the most infamous places, and women and
children, dancing on the streets to their rude music, by
scores. Brindisi has a fine harbor and is the great rendezvous
for several great lines of steamers to the East. The Austrian
Lloyd's, of Trieste, have several lines to Alexandria, Con-
stantinople, and other points, and the P. & 0. Company have
two lines calling here. It is on the great high-road to the
East, and, indeed, for ages it has been one of the landmarks
of the Mediterranean. We are on historic ground, but we

T^ff"

LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

m. i

would rather tread in one of Paul's footsteps than walk in
triumph with all the Caesars.

We walked the deck for hours, and saw the same stars
we had watched for years go down over the distant West,
where our heart was lingering in love and prayer. Again
the Master walked upon the waters, and the blue Mediter-
ranean was literally as still as glass. It was very interesting
in the warm sunlight and crisp air of the next morning to
see the coast of Italy disappear, and sail by Corfu and the
Turkish Islands with their snow-crowned heights beyond,
that seem over 0,000 feet high. We were on "the Great
Sea " of ancient ages and Bible times ; but it is a little sea
to-day beside the great Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. And
yet it ha? been the Mediterranecfn, or middle sea, in the
sense that it has been the centre of the world's history for
more than three thousand years.

Our crew is an interesting study. Most of them are
Hindus from Bombay. So that we are already in the heart
of Asia. They are as dark as negroes, but have Hindu
features. But how they ever live in this northern climate
with their scant cotton clothing we cannot comprehend.
They are nearly all barefooted, and none of them have more
than a thin cotton blouse and linen pants. And yet last
night these barefooted fellows ran up and down the gang-
plank carrying the mail bags up for more than two hours,
chattering and screaming like monkeys, playing all kinds of
tricks on each other, racing down after each o her like chil-
dren let loose, and keeping warm by good nature and fun.

INDS.

ban walk in

same stars
stant West,
yer. Again
lue Mediter-
r interesting

morning to
rfu and the
;ht8 beyond,

"the Great
is a httle sea
ceans. And

sea, in the
i history for

)f them are
in the heart
have Hindu
[lern climate
comprehend,
a have more
aid yet last
n the gang-
a two hours,
J all kinds of
ler like chil-
ire and fun.

:r.-3l

<
I-

^^v

if^

ON THE BLUE MEDITERRANEAN.

Here they are to-day, by the dozen, walking about the deck
barefooted and half naked, and we are glad to have our fur
overcoat buttoned up to the chin in the sharp wind of the
sea. Well, surely there is everything in getting used to
things.

But our cabin passengers are a greater study. Some of
them are business men going to India ; and a number are en
route to Syd- -. „ - ney and Mel-

good many
going out to
or seek their
East; two are,
see merchants
and quite a
missionaries
East. Two of
copal clergy-
number are
missionaries.

,-^cyy

bourne;
are young men
fill t;itTiation8
fortunes in the
probably, Par-
from Bombay
number are
going to the
these are E pis-
men, and a
young lady liqhthouse, mediterranean sea.

On Sabbath evening we had service on board, and we
were so glad, after seeing so much ungodliness on shipboard,
to have an opportunity to worship God. The service was led
by one of the Episcopal missionaries. He was evidently a
graduate of the University, and we doubt not an earnest
young minister of a little more than the average type, with a
strong ecclesiastical tint. "W e enjoyed the hymns and pray-
ers very heartily, but when it came to the sermon we had a
very nice Httle essay on " What is the failure of life ? " with

LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

not even tlie formality of a text, and then a little of the
gospel, in its weakest form, followed by the following ^i-ac-
tical applications which we give almost verbatim : "Are we
then to give up the pleasm-es of hfe as Christians ? Why
should we ? Are we not commanded to rejoice ? It was Mr.
Spui-geon that said he could smoke a cigar to the glory of
God. And why cannot we play cricket, lawn tennis, etc.,
and enjoy the pleasures of life to the glory of God ? "

We looked around with interest to see the faces of the
listeneiT,, and some of them were lighted up with radiant ap-
proval. Well, there are worse things than luwn tennis and
cricket, but the idea of sending out missionaries to preach
and practice such things was sad enough. One would think
that if a person wishes to live that kind of a life, the right
thing would be to stay at home and enjoy life like the world.
But can we wonder if the type of missionary life abroad is
no higher than the Christian life at home ? A pleasure-lov-
ing church will develop a self-indulgent ministry, and the
foreign fruit- will be like the parent tree. We have not come
abroad to criticise the workers in the field. We are much
more grieved with the spirit of the church at home. But we
may have to see and state facts as we tind them, and shall do
so kindly and fairly.

At late supper we saw some of the fruit of the sermon
we had been hearing. One of the young ladies was helping
herself to wine, in the midst of a little party that were evi-
dently disposed to have the rejoicing type of Christianity
that had been recommended, and she remarked amid a gen-

VDS.

,tle of the
wing ^rac-
: " AiH we
m ? Why
It was Mr.
le glory of
ennis, etc.,

aces of the
radiant ap-
tennis and
!s to preach
rould think
e, the right
) the world,
e abroad is
ileasure-lov-
ry, and the
v^e not come
''e are much
le. But we
and shall do

the sermon
was helping
at were evi-
Christianity
amid a gen-

OJV THE BLUE MEDITERRANEAN.

eral laugh: "This is not the way the China Inland would
think about it I"' Well, we hope that the China Inland
missionaries are not ashamed of the reproach, and we are
sure ours are not.

But we are glad to find that we have a real party of China
Inland missionaries on board, and dear, good girls they are.
There are eight of them, all ladies, on their way to their dis-
tant field, and we are quite at home with them already. They
are just like some of our own girls, and are glad to meet us,
as they know a good deal of our work. They are watching
for opportunities of service on board, and are wise and earnest
soul winners. We had the pleasure of spending an hour, the
last day we were on board, in a bless'ed little Bible-reading
with them in the saloon from 11 to 12, and the Master came
near to all our hearts and cheered us on our way. We formed
many common ties, and trust they, as well as we, received a
blessing. On the evening of our arrival at Port Said, they
gave a little account of their work in a public meeting on
board, and nmch good was done in a quiet way.

We have been reading the story of Paul's voyage to Rome
over this winter sea. We are crossing his very pathway, but
how different to-day ! And yet that lone man, with neither
Society, steamboat nor modern civilization behind him, ac-
complished more in a life-time for the evangelization of the
world than any whole generation since. The conditions of
human life are different to-day, and God would have us adapt
oui-selves to them in sending his Gospel to the world. Oh,
that we might ever catch His thought and meet His expecta-
tion for our generation !

iit iw t iir' 'AilK

^'»Sr«->ii*ii4^»'.'fi»*ii'.

LARGER OUTLOOKS OiV MISSIONARY LANDS.

The second night we sailed past the Grecian Isles in
glorious moonlight, and the following day we were nearly all
day long within two or three miles of the coast of Crete.
Candia is its modern name, but to us it has a sweetci nterest
as the parish of Titus, the friend of St. Paul, and one of the
early scenes of Apostolic Christianity. Its long western
shore is bold and barren looking, and but few human beings
seem to live on this rock-bound coast ; but, we doubt not, be-
hind these naked hills is many a sweet valley, and many a
throbbing human heart. The Cretianb did not have a very
high reputation when Paul wrote his letter to Titus, and they
have not improved it in modern times. But it is one of the
places we have claimed for Him who made all these scenes
for Himself, and shall yet cover them with his grace and

glory.

The blue Mediterranean is, indeed, as blue as it can be
painted or described. We have been wondering what could
possibly give these watei-s their exquisite hue. But we have
found the cause : it is as simple as it is beautiful, and it is
full of instruction. It all comes from the clear blue sky
above. It is just the reflection of the heavens above from the
calm bosom of the sea below ; and as these skies are clearer
and bluer than in our murky West, so these waters, likewise,
give back the glory they receive.

Surely, we need not interpret the figure. Would we have
in our lives the heavenly glory we must also receive it from
above. Our holiness is just the reflection of His Face. The
Mediterranean is nearer the central zone and under the more

NDS.

ian Isles in
re nearly all
at of Crete.
}tei interest
one of the
ng western
man beings
mbt not, be-
and many a
have a very
lis, and they
I one of the
these scenes
8 grace and

18 it can be
what could
Jut we have
ul, and it is
ar blue sky
ove from the
J are clearer
3rs, likewise,

ould we have
eive it from
i Face. The
ier the more

ON THE BLUE MEDITERRANEAN.

direct reflection of the 8un and sky, and so it receives the
light of a brighter sky. And so the nearer we come to the
very centre of His Presence, the more richly will we give
back the glory of His life and light

May God keep us "beholding, as in a glass, the gloiy of
the Lord, to be changed into the same image from glory to
glory, even as by the Spirit of the Lord

FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF EGYPT.

THERE are moments which we never forget. Such a
moment was that in which we caught the first glance
of the lighthouse at the mouth of the Nile. It seemecl
to bridge over forty centuries, and to bring us into touch
with the days of Abraham, Joseph, and the exodus of ancient
Israel. Right over yonder we could almost see the young
slave lad going down to the house of Potiphar, the little baby
floating among the reeds of the Nile, and the holy Babe and
mother passing down from Bethlehem to Egypt, very much
as we have seen the peasants to-day, traveling along on their
little donkeys or on the backs of their camels. There are
things that speak to the heart beyond the power of words.
There are realizations of things that no amount of reading can
ever give, and these two short days in Egypt have photo-
graphed upon our hoart and soul the strange life of this
unchangeable East, as first impressions are indelibly photo-
graphed, and as no words of ours, we fear, can reproduce
them to others.

The first Ught was Damietta, and, about two hours later,
the flash light of Port Said burst upon us, and an hour or
two afterward, we steamed in between the great bi'eastworks
that run two miles out into the Mediterranean, and were

3t. Such a
I first glance
I. It seemed

into touch
IS of ancient
» the young
le little baby
ly Babe and
, very much
ong on their

There are
3r of words,
reading can
have photo-
life of this
sUbly photo-
1 reproduce

hours later,

an hour or

breastworks

a, and were

LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

anchored in the midst of a dozen other great ocean steam-
ships, in the mouth of the Suez Canal.

It is about a quarter of a century since this stupendous
triumph of modern engineering skill was opened, and it has
revolutionized the trade of the East. It cost about one hun-
dred million dollars, but is worth it. It has brought India
within little more than a fortnight of England, and the vol-
ume of trade that has already poured through may be esti-
mated by millions. The man, to whom more than any other
its success was due, was M. De Lesseps, of France, who, to-
day, stands before a Paris ti'ibunal with a sullied reputation,
and charged, along with others, with the grossest dishonesties
in connection with the Panama Canal enterprise.

He was backed in his enterprise chiefly by English gold,
and the British government has made this, in part at least,
the occasion for the military occupation of Egypt, as a guar-
antee for the payment of the interest on the enormous
national debt which has been increased by this and other
great public works. In fact, Egypt is almost in the position
of a British colony. This was made very plain the other day,
when the young and headstrong Khedive got angry with his
cabinet, and dismissed them summarily, without consulting
the English minister. He was requested by the British
government to reinstate them again in twenty-four hours, and a
contingent of British troops, within a few hours, had landed
at Suez to follow up the demand, if necessary, by prompt
action. The only concession made to him was to allow him
to appoint a new premier, but all the other members of the

'DS.

an steani-

bupendous
md it has
b one hun-
ght India
d the vol-
ly be esti-
any other
!, who, to-
sputation,
shonesties

jlish gold,
b at least,

15 a guar-
enormous
and other
8 position
other day,
y with his
consulting

16 British
Durs, and a
lad landed
)y prompt
allow him
ers of the

FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF EGYPT.

Egyptian government, we believe, wei-e replaced. In fact,
most of the chief officers of the Egyptian army are English,
and England intends to hold the country with a strong hand.
The little breeze has already blown past, and the tone
of public opinion seems to be with England. The only
Egyptians we have talked with have condemned the Khedive
as a foolish and hot-headed young fellow, who needed the
sharp lesson he received.

We found on reaching Port 8aid, that we should have to
wait two days for our steamer to Jaffa, and so we resolved
to take a quick trip up the canal to Ismalia and Cairo, leave
our heavy baggage there and return in time for the Saturday
steamer. This has given us an opportunity to see a little of
Egypt in passing, and on our return we shall have a few days
more to wait, in which we shall hope to see much more of
this wonderful old land. Wonderful, indeed, it is, a world
as different from ours, as if it were another planet !

Here we are steaming slowly up the canal, while the
half -naked children are running along the bank keeping up
with the steamer, caUing out for "backshish," and picking
up. with eager delight, the oranges and pennies the people
throw to them on the sand-banks. The blessed children are
the same everywhere, — simple, happy, and beautiful ! The
faces of these little bronze Egyptian boys and girls are most
interesting, and some of them quite handsome, especially the
boys. They have learned the art of smihng to perfection.
When they want to sell you something, or get some "back-
shish" from you, they will look in your face as if you were the

LARGER OVTLOOKS OX MISSIOXARY L^NDS.

dearest friend they had on earth. Sometimes you will stop
and look hard at a turbaned fellow who is smiling as if he
had known you for years, and you will stare at him and
wonder where you have met him before ; but, as you fail to
respond with something more substan*' xl, he will pass on,

with a look of disappoint-
ment, and tiy his fasci-
nating manners on some
one else.

Yesterday at Ismalia,
in the west quarter, wo
saw a butcher standi' j
beside a sheep he haa
just dressed and hungup
in the shambles, and it
was a perfect study to
see his face, as he stood
rubbing it down and pat-
ting it all over, and with
eyes lifted up to heaven,
was calling out "Allah,
Allah," and telling the
crowd what wonderful meat it was. He seemed quite
overcome with his emotions, and we could hardly tell
whether he was smiling or weeping, so deeply moved
was he about the quality of that sheep. His fine acting
was not thrown away, for the old women were gathering
round, and, as we left, he was beginning, with much con-

EQYPTIAN BOY.

v/ys.

1 will stop
ig as if he
it him and
you fail to
ill pass on,
disappoint-
p- his fasci-
;rs on some

at Ismalia,
juarter, wq
ir standi!
Bp he hiia
nd hung up
bles, and it
:t study to
as he stood
fu and pat-
r, and with
to heaven,
ut "Allah,
telling the
imed quite
hardly tell
)iy moved
fine acting
gathering
much con-

SHIP OF THE DESERT.

FIRST IMP/? ESSIOJVS OF EGYPT.

descension, to cut off little pieces, and let them have some of
that celestial mutton at exorbitant prices.

Here is a caravan of a dozen camels, with half a dozen
families, the women on the backs of the camels, the men
walking in stately fashion beside, and the children trotting
along behind. There, on our left, is a company of Arabs
and camels, starting out from Kantarah along the road that
leads to Syria. Here again are flocks of millions of birds,
flamingoes, ducks, geese, literally covering the water. Here
are stately palms as high as our forest trees ; and, on every
side, are great iieaps of desert sand, and away to the right
and left the great billowy desert, as far as the eye can reach.
We never saw such a color in the clouds. It seemed a sort
of reflection from the desert sand. And the sunset over
these western sand plains has a iniddy glow and a lingering
glory we have not seen before

It took our steamer nearly twelve hours to steam slowly
up from Port Said to Ismalia. There we disembariced in a
steam launch, and the ''Masiiilia" sailed on to India and
Australia, while the dear missionaries stood waving their
handkerchiefs from the deck in loving farewell, imtil we
should meot again, if the Lord will, in China.

We had a few hours at Ismalia before the train left for
Cairo, and we took a long walk through the town. The long
avenues of acacias were very solemn and beautiful. The
house of M. de Lesseps was here, and the headquarters of
the canal works. But the Arab quarter was the most inter
eating. The kind and obliging dragoman of Messre. Cook &

LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

Son took US through the narrow streets and bazaars, and we
got a good view of genuine Arab life which we shall not for-
get.

There are three or four thousand Arabs in this quarter of
the town, and among them were almost all other nationali-
ties, and, on very familiar terms, numerous families of goats,
donkeys, dogs and camels. These people live just as they
did in the days of Abraham. One gets a very vivid realiza-
tion of Patriarchal life by looking at them. Here are the
earthen pitcher, and water pots ; here are the people with
their beds of mats spread on the sidewalk, and sleeping all
night on the pavement, and in the morning taking up their
bed and going their way. Here are a. hun<?red things that
make the Bible real. But there is not much of Christ. One
or two natives that we have met are interested in these
things. The Custom House officer received us veiy cor-
dially, and told us he belonged to the American Mission,

Here, at Port Said, Mr. Locke has a good Mission work
among the sailors, and at Cairo the American Presbyterians
have a most excellent Mission, both of which we expect, D.
v., to see before we leave. The majority of the people are
Mohammedans. They are the most self-satisfied ^ unimpress-
ible people in the world.

We passed, in our hurried journey to Cairo, the battle-
field of Tel-el Kebir, where the British troops, under General
Woolsey, decided the fate of Egypt, a few years ago. The
next station to this is very interesting as being the site which
the latest explorers have identified as Ancient Pithom, one

aars, and we
jhall not for-

lis quarter of
er nationali-
lies of goats,
just as they
'^ivid realiza-
lere are the
people with

sleeping all
ing up their

things that
Christ. One
ted in these
IS veiy cor-
Mission.
dission work
'resbyterians
^e expect, D.
le people are
I J unimpress-

3, the battle-
ader General
•s ago. The
le site which
Pithom, one

FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF EGYPT.

of the great treasure cities the Israelites built for old
Eameses. This is the veritable land of Goshen, and while
the desert lies now close up to it on one side, yet, on the
other, the fields seem as fertile as ever in leeks and garlic
and all sorts of vegetable^. The land is rich and green.
Even in winter the peach trees are in blossom, and the
oranges are hanging from the trees, and they are deliciously
sweet, and can be bought, even from the exorbitant fruit
boys, for a cent apiece. The palms are magnificent, and the
dates are sold at the car windows in great quantities, and are
larger and finer than we get at home.

But from all these things • the Master turns our hearts
with a certain impatience to the things that are so much
more to His heart. The great world rushes to see these
things, and yet what does it care for Him ? There is no per-
son more thoroughly selfish than the modern traveller.
Cook's agent here was teUing us to-night of a party he took
lately to Palestine, and they all began complaining about
the inferior accommodations they were crowded into, until
he, himself, although not a believer in Christianity, b3gan to
preach to them and say to them, " Here you are all going to
the Holy Land, and professing to be drawn there by the love
of the Saviour, who lived and died there, and yet the poor
Mohammedan will put up with privations of every kind for
months, on his wearj- pilgrimages to the shrine of his
prophet, and even a heathen wiU bear anything to honor his
god, while you Christians are all angry, becauso, for a few
hours, you have an inferior room on account of an unusual
crowd."

4»

LARGE r. OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

We should not want to be found long in the company of
the sight-seeing crowd. God is pressing on our heart the
need of this lost world, and we take a few brief days, as we
hurry past these interesting scenes, to learn a little from
their actual contact to enable us to make His word and His
work more real to others.

KANTABAH, AND THE ROAD TO SYRIA.

But God is not much interested in Luxor, Karnak,
Memnon, Thebes, or even Pithom He is not living in the
past, but in the future. The one event for which His heart
is waiting and longing is the coming of His Son, and the
redemption of the world for which He died. I^et us go forth
with Him in deeper earnestness, prayer and effort to claim

tNDS.

company of

nr heart the

days, as we

little from

)rd and His

or, Karnak,
living in the
ch His heart
Jon, and the
t us go forth
ort to claim

FJA'S T IAfPK/:SSWXS OF EG YPT.

it. The most disheartening thing ahout these people is their
utter content with their false religions. Our guide at
Ismalia yesterday, as he smoked his chebook, and leisurely
drew the tobacco fumes through the long tube, and the ves-
sel of water that cooled and moistened it, looked the picture
of self-complacency. He told us he was a Mohammedan,
and that Mohammedans did not drink or lie, or do anything
gross or wrong. He, himself, had already been fasting for a
month in the great Rammadan, or three months' fast, and he
thought they were as perfect as people could be. Such
people ai-e sealed against the truth. Only the omnipotence
of God can reach them. But, one by one, He is drawing a
few, and we hope to have some fruit, even from the land
of Noph.

VI.

FIRST GLIMPr^ES OF PALESTINE.

IT would seem aH if God had not intended Palestine to be a
commercial country, for it possesses no harbor on its
coast.

It is often impossible for ships to land passengers at
Jaffa at all, and within the last few weeks it has happened
more than once that the steamer has had to sail past this
port with all the passengers to Beirut, and then send down
by the next steamer, and then find they could not land after
all, and they had to take them back to Port Said. The only
approach to a harbor is a ledge of rocks lying about a quar-
ter of a mile from shore, parallel with the coast. On this
the surf beats wildly, but inside there is comparatively calm
water for small boats. But the entrance to this haven is
narrow, and only a lifeboat can make it, and then only with
a moderate sea running. When the waves are very high, no
boat can cross this bar. Only a month ago a boat was
swamped in trying to come in, and thirty passengers per-
ished. We saw the remains of the wrecked Russian steamer
to-day, from which our friends Messrs. Stacey and Sanford
so narrowly escaped a year ago. It was lying on the rocks
near the shore, still beating to pieces in the surf.

Therefore as we drew near Jaffa, qu Sabbath morning,

5°

stine to be a
arbor on its

issengei-s at
as happened
lil past this
1 send down
3t land after
1. The only
bout a quar-
jt. On this
atively calm
lis haven is
m only with
ery high, no
a boat was
sengers per-
3ian steamer
ind Sanford
m the rocks

bh morning,

Ijgt'ffitf-'.ffn

LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

February 5th, after a somewhat unpleasant night, we cam©
early on deck to see how things looked. Tt was just six
o'clock, and tlio sun was that moment rising out of the hills
of Judea, behind the rocky heights and bold, striking houses
of Joppa. The flouds were glorious, the background grand,
and the foreground superb. Tt was, indeed, the "city set on
a hill which cannot be hid," a worthy gateway to a great and
glorious land.

But the sea in front was rolling heavily, and the surf
was dashing high agunst the reef of rocks. Wo had just
anchored about two uules out. We could see boats moving
about inside tlie breakeis, but they did not seem willing to
venture out. At last, after about an hour, they began to
appear around tl("« point, tossing like waifs upon tho,billows.
But they manfully breasted the waves, and soon a dozen of
them were alongside our ship, and a hundred turbaned Arabs
contending for our baggage. We put ourselves under the
care of Messrs. Cook & Son, and their sturdy boatmen soon
had us all on board, and we rowed away to the shore.

By the blessing of the dear Lord we reached land in
safety. Some of our party were a little frightened, and
one corpulent American expressed himself more than satis-
fied with traveling, and said he was going straight to New
York as soon as he could get away from this sort of thing.

It was very interesting to see how skillfully the boatmen
watched the great waves, and rowed up and down their sides
80 as to escape their heaviest swell. The boatswain stood
behind and gave orders. When he saw a great billow in

►-C.:-;!*"!

NDS.

t, we camo
UH just nix
of the hilU
king houses
)Uiul givand,
'city Bet oil
a groat and

nd the surf
Vo had just
)ats moving
1 willing to
;y hegau to
the, billows,
1 a dozen of
)aned Arabs
9 under the
)atmen SQon
hore.

hed land in
[itened, and
than satis-
jbt to New
rt of thing,
ihe boatmen
n their sides
swain stood
at billow in

FfRST CLfMPSES OF PALRSTISE.

front, he would hold up his rowers until it nuuted down, and
wlien lie saw one coming up behind, he would shout out
"ruach ! rnach!" which we cuppose means rn.sh, and they
would fly like the wind.

One could scarcely imagine what a necessuty and import-
ant institution the Tourist office is, abroad, 'it u more than
worth all it costs, in the saving which it swui*;;' !;■> the trav-
i/io ^ of infinite inconvenience and trouble. We heard to-day
of an ridependent Englishman, who declared he could *laud
^'t Jopj A for a franc, and refused all Cooks' services. The re-
H'llt W'-vd, that before he got his baggage through the CiPioms
*.ad at his hotel, he declared it had cost him several pounds.
They, certainly, are very kind and obliging, and although
we have only used their tickets for landing and short jour-
neys, aside from our main route, they could not have been
more courteous and attentive if we had given them thousands
of dollars.

Well, after we once got ashore, we were repaid for all
our trouble. Our first act was to get alone in our room, and
on our knees thank God for His great goodness, and then
■claim this glorious land for Christ. Then, after breakfast, it
was a perfect luxury to sit down in the garden, back of the
hotel, and take in the whole situation.

Here, in midwinter, we were sitting in air as balmy as
May, with flowers of every tint blooming all about us, acres
of orange groves heavy with their Langing ripe fruit just
over the walls, birds singing in the branches, and a strange
ineffable sense of sweetness and sacredness all around ; and

^^H^'*

MUD I T E RMA N EAUT ,
SEA

54 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

over all else, the delightful consciousness that this was the
laud where He lived and died, and to which He so soon was

coming back again.
It was like a delight-
ful dream.

The morning ser-
vice in the English
Church called us
from these thoughts
to worship God, for
the first time, in Pal-
estine, and it was a
great privilege to be
able to do so even in
this special form of
prayer.

In the afternoon,,
we took a walk ta
call on a friend in.
the Enghsh Hospital,
and met a number of
delightful Christian
ladies there, and had
an opportunity to see
this well-managed
Institution where
quite a number of Syrian and Arab patients were becom-
ing acquainted with the humane side of Christianity, and
opening their hearts to Christ.

EQyPT AND THE HOLY LAND.

..,...->•

lis was the
o soon was
(ack again.
:e a delight-
1.

oming ser-
ihe English
called us
se thoughts
ip God, for
;ime, in Pal-
id it was a
vilege to be
so even in
;ial form of

afternoon^
a walk to
a friend in
ish Hospital,
a number of
il Christian
ere, and had
tunity to see
ell-managed
on where
svere becom-
stianity, and

tmmm

FIRST GLIMPSES OF PALESTINE.

One of the workers told us that there was a real move-
ment among the Mohammedans of Syria and Palestine
toward Christianity, but few of these had the courage to
come out boldly, as the persecutions were very bitter, some
being liable to ass-ssination by their friends, others to be
drafted into the army and thus got out of the way. She
said they were, however, laying a train of powder under the
enemies' walls, and, some day, the great explosion was
coming to this r stem, and then their work would tell.

We found, in talking with the intelligent dragomans and
others, that there is a universal dislike to the Turkish govern-
ment, which is the one obstruction to the progress of this
glorious land. The Turk simply holds it to extort money
from the people. The taxation is so heavy that it hardly
pays to attempt any industry. An English lady lately offered
$180,000 to bring pure water from Hebron to Jerusalem, but
the Turk only tried to get her money, and she was wise
enough to refuse it unless she was permitted to construct the
works, and this was refused. Jerusalem and Palestine are
trodden down of the Gentiles, but the iron heel is lifting, and
the day of deliverance is surely nigh.

We next went, of course, to see the house of Simon, the
Tanner, and climbed up to the roof where Peter saw the
vision from heaven and got his Jewish prejudices broadened.
The building i^, probably, no older than the time of the
Crusaders ; but the site is most likely the same as Peter's real
home. We found it a good place, at least, to look up to the
si;:.me heavens whence God gave him the first commission of

iy\

LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

the gospel for the Gentiles, and on this, our first Sabbath in
the Holy Land, ask for a renewal of our commission to give
the gospel to the Gentile world.

Walking through the thronging streets, even on this holy
day, we could not help seeing the strangest scenes. The
bazaars were crowded with every sort of ware. The market-
place was a living swarm of Arabs, Turks, Syrians, men,
women, children, fowls, eggs, vegetables, fruits, and every
sort of ware and vender.

As we turned to go down to Simon's house, a long
funeral procession was just coming out of the Greek Church.
It was most striking. A young man of wealth and influence
had just died. The young men of the town were carrying
the bier on their hands, high up above their heads, and chant-
ing a plaintive cadence, about his goodness and his loss. The
women were robed in pure white and were following close
behind, screaming in a wild, piercing way, that almost
sounded like acting. We were told by our attendant that
they were not hired mourners, but his sisters and friends.
As we came back, half an hour later, they were gathered
around the grave in the cemetery, still making the same
strange cries intermingled with the dirges of the men. We
waited awhile, and the sad, wild notes still went on. We
felt sad for the hopeless sorrow of the world. We asked
our guide, who was a Greek Christian, if there was any hope
in it, and he said, "No," — it was all sorrow and gloom. He
said, in Syria, they often kept up the mourning until some
of the relatives died of grief within a few days after.

NDS.

Sabbath in
lion to give

on this holy
3enes. The
?he market-
rians, men,
, and every

jse, a long
3ek Church,
ad influence
»re carrying
\, and chant-
is loss. The
owing close
hat almost
Bndant that
ind friends,
re gathered
g the same
} men. We
at on. We
We asked
as any hope
gloom. He
until some
ter.

F//?ST GLIMPSES OF PALESTINE.

As we turned homeward from this scene, we overtook a
Moslem marriage procession. A little girl was walking in
front carrying a long wax candle, to be presented by tbe
bride to the bridegroom. A lot of women in white, heavily
veiled, were walking behind, chanting, or rather screaming,
some bridal song. But the notes and tones were just the
same as the ciies we had heard at the funeral procession-
shrill, feminine shrieks, in a high key, and we could only
hope that this was not a specimen of the tones in which the
hride was to address her husband for their future life. Here
our attendant told us that the marriage ceremony would be
performed that night by tbe Sheik, and this taper would be
kept burning all ni>i-ht while the wedded pair would sleep all
the first night with s -(;rd and a copy of the Koran between
them, separating them first unto Allah, before they should
he united to each other.

What absurd scenes meet one at every turn ! Here is an
Arab whose horse is running away. The Arab is sitting on
liis back, without bridle or rein, pulling fiercely at the horse's
mane and trying to stop him, while he is calling out pite-
•ously, oce, oce, oce which means v/hoa ! whoa ! whoa ! and
calling on everybody to stop the animal. But the hoise
keeps on, leaping past the numerous Arabs that try to head
him off, until he and his rider are lost in the distance in a
cloud of dust. The Arab seemed determined not to lose his
horse even if he lost his life.

Here is a little boy driving a donkey along the road. He
is a very small boy and a very obstinate and shrewd donkey.

LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

The boy is crying bitterly because the donkey won't go, but
will insist on stopping at the nice bits of grass that grow by
the hedge and having a leisurely breakfast. The boy is, evi-
dently, afraid of the donkey, and the donkey, evidently,
knows it. Every few minutes the boy, in a whimpering tone,
goes up pretty near the donkey, tells him to go on, pre-
tends to strike him, but keeps far enough off just to graze
his tough back. And the donkey in the most amusing
fashion just turns his hind legs in a threatening manner,
which seems to say more loudly than words, " Now, you just
look out ! " The animal does not mean to hurt him, for they
are harmless little creatures not much bigger than sheep, but
only to scare him, and this he has already done most thor-
oughly. At last, the boy does the most sensible thing in his
power, he appeals to a big Arab, who takes the club out of
tho boy's hands, gives the donkey such a thrashing as he will
not soon forget, and sends him on his way a more penitent
and willing donkey than would have been possible any other
way.

Well, there is one thing we can all do when our enemies
are too strong for us. If we have not courage to face them
ourselves, we can call on One that is stronger than we or
they. The devil is not afraid of us, but he is of Him.

We have met some very excellent Christian people.
Just before leading Port Said we called on the excellent mis-
sionary of the Sailor's Rest, Mr. Locke, a former Salvation
Army worker of Toronto: He is carrying on a work of
faith, for the sailors of all nations, who crowd that port.

I't go, but
it grow by
boy is, evi-
evidently,
3ring tone,
o on, pre-
t to graze
t amusing
g manner,
ir, you just
n, for they
sheep, but
most thor-
ling in his
lub out of
J as he will
•e penitent
any other

ir enemies
face them
lan we or
Jim.

m people,
lellent mis-
• Salvation
a work of
it port.

F/fiSr GLIMPSES OF PALESTINE.

We met at the same place a brave pioneer missionary,
who IS laboring upon Karak Moab. This is, perhaps, the
ancient Ku-, mentioned so often in Isaiah. He is far beyond
the hmits yet reached by other missions in Palestine, and is
now on his way to a very bold, exploring journey, in com-
pany with a friend, to cut his way through the heart of
Arabia, from the Persian Gulf, and see if he can open a line
for missionary work into that yet unoccupied land. We
ha/e just met at Jaffa the Missionary Secretary of the Y M
C. A. or England, who has been planting branches of the Y
M. C A. at Gibraltar, Malta, Cairo, and other eastern points
and has formed a fine branch in Jerusalem.

So God is girdling the- earth with points of light, and
preparing to gather His people out of all nations and kindred
and peoples and tongues for His coming.

VII.

DAYS IN PALESTINE.

THEY have not been many — only seven — but they have
been memorable. We came from Egypt to Canaan,
only a week ago, and now we go forth from Jerusa-
lem, as the Lord may enable us, to the uttermost parts of
the earth. This is surely the divine order ; may it be in the
fullness of the divine blessing !

It never occurred to us, until we reached Jerusalem that
we were beginnmg our visit to the heathen world at Jerusa-
lem, exactly according to the apostolic plan. We are very
glad it has been so arranged, in the wise and precious provi-
dence of God, for it has enabled us to looh at the field, we
believe, from the Master's standpoint, and from the true cen-
tre of all Chrislian work.

We left Jaffa for Jerusalem on Monday, Feb. 6th, by the
new railway. It seemed almost a desecration to hear the
locomotive whistle among the sacred hills of Judah, but
after one has travelled ten hours by carriage or horseback
over a modern Palestine road, be will vote for the railway
every time he has an opportunity. We are very glad to
know that two more are under way, farther north, connect-
ing Haiffa, Beyrut, Noblous, Damascus, and the Persian

Gulf, and we pray that they may be hastened

60 •

■"I

DAYS IX I'.tLKSnXE.

they have
5 Canaan,
n Jenisa-
; parts of
be in the

ilem that
it Jerusa-
s are very
)U8 provi-
field, we
true cen-

th, by the
hear the
idah, but
tiorseback
e railway
Y glad to
, connect-
Persian

The new road to JeruHaleni leads across the famous and
fertil(3 ])]ain of Sharon, where we gathered a few of the
beautiful scarlet flowers, of the anemone family, that were
out in carpets of bloom, and which some have called "the
Rose pf Sharon, "

0'.

LARGER OUT/ OOA'S ON MISSIONARY 1.., VDS.

. 1 left we could see Bethhoron, where Joshua fought his
great battle, and Gibeon and Ajalon, and wh. he commanled
the sun and moon to stand still and prolong tht day, until his
victory should be made complete.

Th'^ ^ '"v.'^ows a natural wady or stream in the moun-
tains, and really has no serious engineering difticultios to
t;ontend with. It climbs the moimtains by an easy grade,
twenty-seven hundred feet, to the level of Jerusalem. The
valley through which it runs is a fine sample of thousands of
others in this wondrous land, and the moment we saw it
we understood the secret of ancient Israel's prosperity and
teeming population.

These hills have all, at oih' time, been terraced fr< ii val-
ley to bi>nimit in narrow ledges, built up like steps of stairs,
eacii little terrace supported by : wall of stone and covered
above with earth, and then planted with vines, fig >, and olives
In ancient times it must have been a 'beautiful sif'ht tt
these lo , and winding valleys, reacn.ng away up to the
clouds, and covere<i with their thick, rich terrac< gre^a

an J. bloom.

The effect of the hills was, )f course, to multiply the c.
tent ar size of the land many times over, and reallv give the
counti^ an area and extent greatly xceeding its appai< nt
size A Scotchman once said to a bo. sting Englishman that
if the hills of Scotl nd were all flattened out it vould make
two England?. The same is really t "ue of Palestine. Many
of the terrrr^es are in ruins, much ' the soil has washed
.aw ', anf^ few of the vines, t gs and olives arw to be seen ;

Kmmimmmif--

OS.

fought his
>mmaiuled
r, until his

;he moun-

icUltit38 to

asy j-^rade,
lem. The
rmsands of
we saw it
perity and

fr( ii val-
1 of stairs,
id covered
and ohves.

j;ht t( <\

up to the
gre<^u

aly the c.
ily give the
s apparn r
hman that
ould make
ne. Many
as washed
be seen ;

DA ys IN PALESTINE. fi-

but one can see from the niins what the past must have lx)en.
There is much desolation in this Innd ; tliousands of hills

THF TO-VER OF RAMLEH.

and valleys, once green ai). itful, are but heaps of stones ;

>ut there is not as much desolation as we expected. Again

an< again have we seen beautiful plains, like Sharon, fer-

0.4

I.ARUKR OVTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LAXPS.

tile as a garden, lovely vineyards and olivj-vanla, like thewe
of Ranialeh, Breroth and Hebrf)n, where \y>v acres, and al-
most miles, there was nothing but luxuriant trees and plants,
and the amplest evidence that, with proper industry i»nd
cultivatinii, and the blessing of God, the laud could soon be
restored to its former prosperity.

Most of the numerous (Colonies planted in Palestine by
Kothschild, Hirsch and others, have been completely success-
ful. Many of them have to-day the most flourishing vineyards,
oliveyards, orchards and industries of v; lious kinds, and are
fully paying all expenses and a good d.al more. The oranges
of Jaffa, the grapes of Hebron, and the tigs and olives of the
whole land aie ecjual, if not superior, to any in the world.

The rains are truly returning to the country. The very
best authorities, pt rsons that have lived here for more than a
quarter oL a century, have assured us that the climate is, in-
deed, hanging, doubtless fronv the direct blessing of heaven,
and partly irom the natural effect of increasing cultivation.
The greatest hindrance is the wretched government. It does
all it can to keep back western progress and improvement,
and to hold the people down by the yoke of taxation and
every kind of selfish, depressing [wlicy, Th effect of this is
to discourage a people naturally indolent, apathetic and in-
different. A more industrious, intelligent and aggressive
people vsrould soon make Palestine a land of prosperity. One
need only look at the roads where travelling is dangerous from
the heaps of stones that, 1 tally, lie piled on every path,
when a very trifling amount of labor would clear the tracks

V/AS-.

, like these
•leH, and al-
and plants,
idustry ;iiid
lild Hoon bo

*ale8tiiio by
ely success -
^ vineyards,
ids, and are
The oranges
lives of the
e world.
. The very
more than a
imate i&, in-
j of heaven,

cultivation.
snt. It doe»
iprovenient,
axation and
ft of this is
letic and in-
l aggressive
jerity. One
gerous from

every path,
r the trackii

/'./)-.v /A' r.u./:sTf\/:.

and make splendid macadami/cd roads, for the foundations
are ius solid m rocks, ever since the days of the Honuins who
built them.

Many of tlie helds are just as bad, literally [Kicked witli
rocks, and yet a lazy Moslem will go in with liis crooked
stick tbat ho calls a plough, and scratch up the soil a little,
and throw in some grain among the rocks, and let it come up
and grow the best it can, and he calls this farming ; while a
little farther on, a thrifty (J reek oi- foreigner lias gathered out
the rocks, built a nice fence with them along the side of the
field, and has a beautiful and bountiful harvest.

But we have reached the suburbs of Jerusalem. On our
left is the German colony, which has been growing \i\) for
fifteen years, and now looks like a prosperous city by itself,
with its new well-built stone houses and good streets. A few
scattered houses stand in other directions, and in the distance
a straggling point or two of mosque and minaret tell us that
over the edge of yonder hill lies— Jerusalem.

Wo step from the car. Our dear friends. Miss Robertson
and Miss Dunn, are waiting to welcome us; and, indeed, it
feels like home. Of course, we walk to their home. This
first vision of Jerusalem must not be shut out by carriage
windows. And so, giving our baggage to an Arab, and send-
ing our dear sisters on by the short road home, we accept the
kind invitation of a good missionary brother to walk with us
aroun I the wall, homeward, and get, at least, a partial view
of the City of Ages.

Ah ! there it is at last. We have reached the brow of the
hill, and, lo ! it lies at our feet.

rrr-

LARGER OUTLOOK'S OX MTSSIOXARY LANDS.

That is the valley of the Gihon, running into the valley
of Hinnoni, just below us. Right across it is the height of
Zion and the tower of David. Farther away, on the other
side of the City, the great valley of Jehoshaphat runs down
to meet Hinnom, and about where they meet is Aceldama ;

GROUND PLAN OF JERUSALEM.

and then it sweeps on, away down to the Dead Sea and the
valley of the Jordan, whose great, black, rocky walls rise
yonder at the end of Jehoshaphat's Vale, apparently only two
or three miles away. Across the valley of the Jehoshaphat
is another mountain with a tall tower on its summit; that is

..,,ii HjF;jp:i

JNDS.

the valley
le height of

1 the other
runs down
Aceldama ;

ea and the
walls rise
rly only two
ehoshaphat
nit; that is

DAYS IX PALESTINK.

— Olivet. Farther to the right is the Mount of Offence, and
away to the left are the white houses of crowded Jerusalem.
We walk through the Jaffa Gate and the Street of David,
and through a lot of dark, overarched lanes thronged with
Arabs and their children, and their sheep, and their dogs, and

WAILINQ PLACE OF THE JEWS.

their wares, past great ecclesiastical buildings and streets,
and sc-enes that call up a thousand associations, out the
Damascus Gate on the north, and on through the new city
that has grown up outside its northern walls, untir We reach
an iron gate and a pleasant house front. We cross the thres«

f !s;J>^ iVAj I- # SijsE

LARGER Orri.OOk'S ox MISSrONARY LAl^'DS.

hold, and we are at home in Jerusalem, in the house of our
dear Martha p id Mary, only both are Marys ; and the Lord
is also there.

They were days like a dream, — busy, bhssed, sacred,
useful we trust — God-touched we know, and impossible to
describe or reproduce to our readers we fear, but never- to be-
forgotten days in dear Jei'usalem.

The least part of the interest and blessing of those days
was the opportunity of seeing the city and the land. And
yet this was a great pleasure and opportunity, even in the
limited time we had, and we were enabled to see much, and
understand and realize what years of study, at a distance,
could never have made so real. Of course, the time at our
disposal would not pemiit our going to Northern Palestine,
and so we confined ourselves to a few of the chief scenes of
interest within twenty miles of Jerusalem.

Jerusalem must ever be the centre of interest for every
Christian traveler in Palestine. There are many things there
which chiefly interest the antiquarian and archaeologist.
For us, there were three or four spots which overshadowed
all else. We cared little for the Church of the Holy Sepul-
chre, for we were quite sure it was not the scene of our Sa-
viour's death and resurrection, and all its clouds of incense,
priestly mummeries, and splendid decorations only wearied
and disgusted us. We took no interest in the mosaics and
carvings and splendid stained glass windows of the Mosque
of Omar, and only wanted to see the place where Abraham
offered his sacrifice, and David and Solomon reared the Tem-

Wsmmm

w mma&

b'f'wnSW*'!

INDS.

ouse of our
ul the Lord

sed, sacred,
iipossible to
never- to be-

l those days
land. And
even \i\ the
( much, and
a distance,
time at our
n Palestine,
ef scenes of

3t for every
things there
rchaeologist.
ershadowed
Holy Sepul-
3 of our Sa-
j of incense,
nly wearied
mosaics and
the Mosque
sre Abraham
•ed the Tern-

JO LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

through which most probably He passed that Wednesday
night as He went out to Bethany, and delivered His predic-
tions respecting His second coming. John xiv ; xv ; xvi.

We were interested, of course, in visiting the tower of
David and the place of his tomb on Mount Zion, and seeing

POOL OF BETHE8DA, JERUSALEM.

in one of the deep excavations some remains, probably, of
the very masonry erected by the Jebusites, from whom Joab
captured the stronghold, three thousand years ago. Many a
Greek and Latin and Armenian structure we saw commem-
orating some supposed scene of sacred history, the Via Dolo-

■flwufrar^Mi »imA% ■ ^mtMK\ m ii

■ ,1 „».''l« * # " >i

VDS.

fVednesday
His predic-
:v ; xvi.
le tower of
and seeing

)robably, «>f
whom Joab
o. Many a
V commeni-
e Via Dolo-

DA YS IN PALESTINE.

rosa, the Judgment Hall, the Pool of Bethesda ; all these
were interesting in their way.

But there were three places that were all-absitrbing.
The first was "the place called Calvary." At a glance it
was evident that it could not have been the spot where
Greeks, Latins and Armenians have contended for centuries
for preeminence, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, for that
is far inside the walls of Jerusalem, and must ever have been
so. But outside the Damascus Gate, or rather St. Stephen's
Gate,

"There is a green hill far away,
Beside a city wall,"

and even a glance impi-esses one almost instinctively that
this must have been the place. It is the -very shape «»f a
skull, as Golgotha was. And right beside it is a garden, and
under its brow an unfinished tomb, where only one seems
ever to have lain, and where can be dimly traced a sign of
tht .ross ; and here the enlightened scholarship of the last
few yeaxj has almost unanimcrisly located the scene where
J'3sn.^ died and rose again.

It iT no-v\ a Moslem burial place, covered with tombs.
There is one great rock in it, all torn to pieces, as if by a vio-
lent earthquake. There are no offensive Greek and Latin
churches and superstitious rites, but all is simple, natural,
plain, and indeed bare, and almost desolate-looking, as be-
fits the true significance of His cross. We lingered awhile,
looked into the locked tomb, where, perhaps, John had once
gazed, gathered some hyssop from the wall, and ]»assed on.

r.ARCr.K Of/V.OOA'SOX .VfSSIOXARV LANDS.

Our heart was not as deeply touched as it was later. He
was not there. Every instinct pressed us forward to a more

sacred si)ot.

A little walk took us to the Kedron and the gardens that
cover quite a considerahle area around tlie place where He
must have crossed. The Latins have enclosed one of these

spaces and called it
Gethseniane, and all
around these walls
have set up their
graven images and
painted representa-
tions of the various
scenes. They have
also a chapel of the
Virgin,and her tomb.
There are many olive
trees, and one that
is at least one thou-
sand years old. We
got a few leaves
from it through the kindness of the monk in charge. We
could but wish that some of the more quiet i)laces around
were the trut places. The English Christians are fond of
going a little farther out to an unmarked garden and praying
there in remembrance of His night of agony.

But our hearts were not able to rest even here. On-
ward with our guide, a Christian gentleman and a mission-

tl^lL

TOMB OF mBSALOM.

later. He
to a more

rdens that
where He
le of these
[i called it
ne, and all
hese walls
up their
nages and
I'epresenta-
,he various
Ihey have
ipel of the
i her tomh.
many olive
I one that
i one thou-
s old. We
iw leaves
large. We
ices around
ire fond of
,nd praying

here. On-
a mission-

LARGER OUTLO KS

MISSIONARY LANDS

aiy, residing in Jerusalem, we passed near where He had
passed, up the side of nin t, which we found much n arer
thau we ha'.l supposed, not hal > mile awa} Half way up
the mountain we got a grand vew of Jerusalem, wlr '> is
the best point of view by tar. Absalom's tomb Rtan<i . in
the forej^round in the valle) with i few old ob c irees, and
across tlie valley of Jehoshapl.at on the walls of Moriah and
the Mosque of Omar, where the Temple stood. Ba< k ot this
lies the great city with its many ^ uildings, almost eveiy one
visible having some strange story.

But this was little to us. We > I sed on untii w<-

reached the summit of the Mount, o. i climbed the hij^
tower, from which we could see the whole land and the d*
valley of the Jordan, and the Dead ^-a .a the west. Prom
the Greek Church near by a distinguished funeral procession
was passing. We paused a little and still pressed on,~on to
Bethany, which lay round the mountain on the north side
and beyond a second little hill-top. It was to this our heart
was pressing forward— the Mount of Ascension. Yes, this
was the cUmax of all our journey, and all His, too. " He
led them out as far as to Bethany, and He lifted up His hands
and blessed them. And it came to pass, while He blessed
them, He was parted from them, and carried up into
heaven."

There on the rocky hillside we sat down, with the little
town at our feet, and the higher mountain top above us, just
hiding the great city from view, and a deep divine, imspeak-
able sweetness fell upon cfur spirit. We were so glad there

fftp.'i

re He had
iich I arer
alf way up
a, whi li is

» fltan«l- ill

irees, an<l

VIoriah and

a( k of this

, ev» sv one

»n until w<'

\ the hig'

id the de<

est. From

procession

on, —on to

north side

8 our heart

Yes, this

too. " He

) His hands

He hlessed

d up into

h the little

3ve us, just

e, ujispeak-

glad there

J). I ) .s /.v P.U./:STl.\E.

•was no clnircli to mark the spot. We were ho ^lad the great
city was shut off from view. We w«re so glad the noisy
Arabs, with their cries of "backshish," came not there. We
were i^lad that (iod had k«»pt tliis holy place from the

TOMB OF LAZARUS, BETHANY.

swinging censers, and noisy chants, and tumultuous proces-
sions, that have desecrated almost every sacred spot in Jeru-
8al< 111. There was no one near us but the Christian friend
\,y our side, and the Presence that brought back all the Past,
and filled the mountain-side with living forms again.

We gave up our whole heart to the luxury of that mo-

r..iRG/:R ocTf.ooKS ox Affssfox.iRY i.Ayns.

iiieut. Wo know He had niet iH. Wo realized iu the depths
(.f our being that He wiis our Living, Everlasting and Pres-
ont Lord. We felt He had gathered us into the Company of
the Ascension ones, and with us a great and glorious com-
l)any of many dear ones away across two seas, whom He
made so real, in that moment, to oiu- att'oction ; and together
He took us into the Heavoidy Places, and the Ascension
Life, and we knew that we should he gathoied on that sacred
spot once more, ere long, when He shall comr again, "and
His feet shall stand in that day on the Mount of Olives."

It was one of those moments that setMu to focus a life-
time and all we have ever known and felt and hoped into
one instant of intense and divine realization. Hours after-
ward, the deep, sweet thrill lingered above every thought or
sensation, and it lingers still, and forever will linger— a
mountain-top of memory, hope and love.

Sweet OHvet, sweet Bethany,

My heart shall oft remember thee ;
Where Jesus left for heaven alwve,

With hands outspread in parting love,
And whnre some glorious d'<y He'll come

To bring His scitt'-red children home.
Sweet Olivet, sweet Wethany,

Sweet Lord, I will remember Thee.

We made a pleasant missionary call at Bethany on alone
and faithful worker, and found that there was a good deal
of interest among the Moslems of the place in her work.
This dear sister, Miss Crawford, of England, has built a
house here, and is living at her own expense, and workirig
among the people with a good deal of encouvagemi .it.

■/)S.

the (lopths
and Pres-
ompany of
riouH com-
whoiii Ho
id togother
AscenHion
that sacred
f;ain, '*and
Olives."
3CU8 a life-
hoped into
[ours after-
thought or
11 linger — a

ny on a lone
a good deal
I her work,
has built a
md working
rriv.it.

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Sciences

Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, t4.Y. M580

(716) 872-4503

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CIHM/ICMH

Microfiche

Series.

CIHM/ICMH
Collection de
microfiches.

Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques

-^^^

78 I.AKGKR orTLOOKS OX MrSSfOXARV LANDS.

Another English lady, Miss Atley, has also a mission
home and work on the sunmiit of Ohvet. Our limited time
did not permit us to meet her, hut we had very delightful
fellowship with her excellent father, who usually resides and
lahors with her, hut whom we met at Jaffa, where he is at
present supplying a post of service temporarily.

The walk home took us along the Jericho road, and the
veiy route, no doubt, that Jesus traversed when He came
down from Bethpage and Bethany, on the little colt, and
met the multitude, and afterwards entered Jerusalem in the
triumphal procession. There is a point where the road
makes an abrupt turn around the mountain, and the city
comes fully into view. It was here that Jesus wept over
Jerusalem, and predicted its speedy and utter overthrow.

Luke xix : 41-4-i. .

We reached our home about two o'clock, having lived
vears in one brief, eventful morning. The afternoon was
'spent in visiting many objects of deep interest i«i the city,
and the evening found a dehghtful company of Christian
workers and missionaries gathered together at the home ox
our dear hostesses to welcome us, and h.ar some message
from the Master, whose presence seemed so near.

Blessed "City of our God, and mountain of His hoh-
ness Beautiful for situation, the joy of the whole earth, is
Mount Zion, on the sides of the north, the City of the Great
King Walk about Zion, and go round about her ; tell the
towers thereof. Mark ye well her bulwarks, consider her
palax^s ; that ye may tell it to the generation following.

WDS.

a mission
imited time
y delightful
■ resides and
fieve he is at

sad, and the
3n He came
tie colt, and
saleni in the
re the road
md the city
IS wept over
• overthrow.

having lived
'ternoon was
t in the city,
of Christian
i the home of
ome message
ir.

1 of His holi-
rhole earth, is
' of the Great
i her ; tell the
, consider her
ion following.

J) A YS IX PALESTINE.

Hh will be our Guide

For this is our God foiever and ever
even unto death."

Nay rru)r.. : •• For they that trust in the Loi-d shall he as
Mount Zion, which cannot he removed, hut ahideth forever."
'•As the mountains are round about Jerusalem, so the J.ord
is round about His people from henceforth, even forever."
Psa. xlviii : 1, 2, 12 U; cxxv : 1, 2.

One very pleasant day of our short stay in Jerusalem
was spent in a horseback journey to the North. Rising be-
fore daylight, a party of four started as soon as we could get
off, along the road that leads up the hill of Scopus, and out
towards Nablous, Tiberias and Damascus.

The first point of special interest was the old town of
Anathoth. It had for us an intense interest as the home of
Jeremiah, and the scene of that beautiful incident, Jer.
xxxii: 8 .. where the prophet, in Jerusalem's darkest days,
when the Chaldeans occupied the land and the city was
about to fall, was commanded to take a bold, and apparently
unreasonable step of faith, by investing his money, perhaps
all that he had, in a field in Anathoth, as a guarantee that
the land was coming back again to the people of God. Often
has the old story taught us the secret of faith, and the ne-
cessity of stepping out in advance of all seemings, and tnist-
ing God in the dark.

It was very interesting to stand for a little on the echo-
ing hill-side tHat looks down upon the deep valley of the
Dead Sea and the Jordan, and hear across twenty-six cen-
turies the echo (for that is what the word Anathoth means)

8o LARC.r.K 01 TI.OOKS OS MISSIONARY I. ASPS.

of the same old faith, which has ever heeu the watchword of
God's host ; and, we tnist, we were enabled to echo back
again the words, "I will trust."

Returning to the main road, we passed on by Mob,

tj\ >x<JU,^Ca#^'

ANATHOTH.

I Sam. xxi, xxii ; Gibeah of Saul and Micmash, I Sam. xiii.
xiv . Ramah, the home and burial place of Samuel, and many
other places teeming with sacred associations. This was the
highway of the Assyrian and Chaldean armies, when they
marched against Jerusalem; Isaiah has given a most vivul

/.\7'.V.

vatchvvord of
to echo ba(.k

on by Nob,

sh, I Sam. xiii.
nuel, and many
This was the
lies, when they
n a most vivid

DA VS IN PALESTINE.

picture of this whole region, in his dramatic panorama of tho
Assyrian March, Isaiah x : 2S-n2 : "He is come to Aiuth,
he is passed to Migron ; at Micmash he hath laid up his car-
riages ; they are gone over the passage ; they have taken up
their lodging at Geba ; Kamah is afraid ; Gibeah of Saul is
fled. Lift up the voice, daughter of Gallim ; cause it to bo
heard with Laish, poor Anathoth. , . . As yet he shall
remain at Nob that day : he shall shake his hand against the
mount of the daughter of Zion, the hill of Jerusalem."

And so, in succession, the eye of the seer beholds the con-
queror's approach, amid scenes of terror, through the villages
that mark this road. Our objective point, however, was
Bethel, the place of Abraham's altar and Jacob's Ladder, and
the symbol of Jehovah's Covenant with His people in all tho
generations. Often liad we sung and prayed —

*'0 God of Bethel, by whose hand

Thy people still are fed,
Who through this weary pilgrimage

Hast all oi:r fatheis led,
Our vows, our prayers, we now present,

Before Thy throue of grace ;
God of our fathers, be the God

Of their succeeding race.

"Through each perplexing path of life

Our wandering footsteps guide ;
Give us each day our daily bread

And raiment tit provide ;
O spread Thy covering wings around,

Till all our wand<r rings cease.
And at our Father's loved abode

Our souls arrive in i)eace. "

LARGER OUTLOOKS OIV MLSSIONARY LANDS.

The i)i'omiso that lias bet'u sustaining us all through this
journey was the gracious word spoken to Jacob at Bethel :
"Behold, I am with thee, and will keep thee in all i)laces
whither thou goest, and will bring thee again into this land ;
for I will not leave thee until I have done all that I have
8i)oken to thee of. " It was very blessed to receive it afresh
at Bethel, perha])s on the very sjiot where Jacob's eyes beheld
the Mystic Ladder, and found the house of God and the Gate
of Heaven. Hosea says, "He found Him at Bethel, and
there He spoke with us." And so again He spake with us,
aud we i-ealized that

" Thore's a ladder up to heaven
Everywhere we roam,
And the gates of prayer can never
Find us far from home."

The modern village of Bethel is of considerable size, and
its olive and fig orchards are very flourishing. A little way
off are the ruins of the ancient site, and there wo encamped
and took oxxv lunch. Back of the ruin is a lofty hill, where it
is said Abraham looked out over the land, when God said,
"Lift up now thine eyes, northward, and southward, and
eastward, and westward ; for all the land which thou seest,
to thee will I give it, and to thy seed forever." "Arise, walk
through the land in the length of it and in t^ie breadth of it ;
for I will give it unto thee."

From this point it would not be hard for Lot to see the
beautiful valley of the Jordan, But Abraham saw farther,
and got much more, including even all that Lot so selfishly

LANDS.

1) through this
ob at Bethel :
3 in all i)lace8
into this land ;
1 tliat I have
3eivo it afresh
b's eyes beheld
1 and the Gate
t Bethel, and
ipake with us,

rahle size, and
A little way
I we encamped
f hill, where it
hen God said,
3uthward, and
ich thou seest,
''Arise, walk
breadth of it ;

Lot to see the
n saw farther,
ot 80 selfishly

o
m

-I
I
n

L.IRGHR OUTLOOKS OX MISSIOX.IKV LANDS.

chose. ( )ttcn had wo taken Abraham's look of faitli, hut, to-
day, wo asko.1 tho Lord to let us boo a good deal farther even
than this fair vision.

In later centuries Bethel hecamo tho seat of Jeroboam's
calf-worship, and one of tho towns of Israel's Kingd.miof the
Ten Tribes. It nuist have been tho southern boundary.

Our dear sisters in Jerusalem have taken it as tho name
of their Home, and wo trust that the Jerusalem Betiiel may,
indeed, ever bo "tho House of (lod and the very Oate of

Heaven."

We noticed, as wo have often read, that the terraced hiUs
at Bethel seemed just like great steps of stairs loading up to
heaven, and we can easily imagine how the last sight Jacob's
eyes beheld, as he fell asleep, should suggest tho beautiful
vision of his dream, a great, white stairway leading up to tho

We passed a large cave at Bethel, where it would seem
tho most natural thing for him to sleep that lonely night, and
wo brought away some memorial vines from its walls.

The road back led through the Christian village of Ra-
maleh, where there is scarcely a Moslem family. We found
a most prosperous little town, and all around, the rocky hill-
sides were in the very highest state of cultivation, with splen-
did vineyards and comfortable homes, showing what Pales-
tine could become with proper culture and people. We had
the great pleasure of meeting with the American missionaries
there, the Leightons, of the Friends' Mission. We spent half
an hour very pleasantly with them, and saw their little

DS.

til, l)Ut,, to-

ither evfii

Icroboam'a
tlotiiof the
idary.

tho name
t^tlicl iiuiy,
My Gate of

srraced hills
Ltling up to
igl it Jacob's
le beautiful
igup to the

kvould seem
y night, and
walls,
lage of Ra-

We found
i rocky hill-
, with splen-
what Pak's-
e. We had
missionaries
''e spent half

their little

JJ.l iS J A' rALiisriNE,

JERUSALEM AND THE MOUNT OF OLIVES FROM SCOPUS.

school of about thirty bright children, whom we had the priv-
ih'ge of addressing. It gave us quite a home feeling to see
one of our little hymns, "Himself," translated into Arabic,

LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

and we promised to send them the nmsic for it. We found
them on intimate terms with our dear workers ; and, indeed,
we were pleased and surprised to find the very friendly rela-
tions existing among all the missionaries.

We got home about dark, enjoying a very fine view of
the city from the hill Scopus, just north of Jerusalem, and
noticing the rapid and remarkable growth of the city in this,
direction, where a new city has grown up outside the walls
in the past five or six years. This is supposed by many to be
the very district described by Jeremiah in his wonderful pre-
diction of the future growth of Jerusalem, Ch. xxxi : aS-40 :
"Behold the days come, saith the Lord, that the city shall be
built to the Lord from the tower of Hananeel unto the gate
of the corner, and the measuring line shall yet go forth over
against it upon the hill Gareb, and shall compass to Goath.
And the whole valley of the dead bodies (and this very valley-
is full of ancient tombs), and of the ashes, and all the fields
unto the brook of Kedron, unto the corner of the horse gate
toward the east, shall be holy unto the Lord ; it shall not be
plucked up, nor thrown down any more forever."

This is the part of Jerusalem where nearly all the Protes-^
tant mission work is located, and where our little mission is,
and already it has been made " holy unto the Lord," and is.
rapidly filling up with houses and people. Let us take hold
with our dear ones for a glorious blessing !

Already in a quiet, humble, but very clear, wise and
marked way the blessing has begun. Our dear friends have
been led by the Master in much prudence and faith, and tlie

■ LANDS.

it. We found
•s ; and, indeed,
■y friendly rela-

?ry fine view of
Jerusalem, and
the city in this,
utside the walls-
d by many to be
3 wonderful pre-
h. xxxi : ;iS-40 :
the city shall be
1 unto the gate
Bt go forth over
upass to Goath.
I this very valley
nd all the fields
f the horse gate
; it shall not be-
ver."

ly all the Protes-

little mission is,

le Lord," and ia

liCt us take hold

clear, wise and
ear friends have
id faith, and th«

IWYS I.\ PALESTINE.

Lord has already given them a very blessed place in the con-
fidences of the other workers, and in the beginning of Jeni-
salem's restoration.

The Christian work in this city must be very quiet or the
jealousy of the Turkish authorities will be excited, and some
times the work suppressed. It is not best even that rte
should say too much about it i)ublicly, or attract undue atten-
tion to it from its enemies. But we can speak most hopefully
and thankfully. We have no doubt that the Lord has led
our sisters to come here, and has guide ■" them every step of
their way. We have not felt at lil)erty iiitherto to encourage
any considerable number of new workers to come to this land,
in view of the limited oj)portunities and population of the
land. But we are satisfied that there is room for a few more
laborers, even at this time ; but they should bo of the highest
kind, and ^.now the Lord so well that they will be saved
from rashness and serious mistakes.

We believe the work in Jerusalem might l)e greatly
strengthened by the addition of a man able to conduct public
religious services, and gather around this little nucleus the
spiritual elements that are wanting, and gradually establish
a strong centre on simple, Scriptural and Pentecostal lines.

Never before have we been so much impressed with the
place of Jerusalem in the plan of the world's evangelization
This was the Master's command, and it is still in force. We
believe that this means not only the people, but the place,
and we are somewhat strongly impressed, thai from this
centre the Lord wants very powerful spiritual impulses and

;ArErt»«SS«»B.;:i

LARCF.R Ol'TLOOk'S OX MISSIONARY L.UXDS.

influences to go forth, in this last great missionary movement,
for the evangehzation of the world. None t)f us may quite
understand all He means by it, but we are impressed that
there should be a strong centre there, and that the Master's
heart is still looking out upon the whole world from Jeru-
salem as a centre more than we, perhaps, have dreamed.

"When the Most High divided to the nations their in-
heritance, He set the bounds of the people according to the
number of the children of Israel." Deut. xxxii : 8. And
still He is working according to that rule. Men may pcorn
the Jew, but he is the key to the problem of history.

As we spent our first night in Jerusalem, we were glad
that God had permitted us to begin our missionary journey
and visit our first missionaries at Jerusalem. And we could
not but feel that this little beginning was yet to be felt in all
lands. We were glad to receive from our dear Lord this pre-
cious promise for workers in Jerusalem: "There shall be
an handful of corn in the earth on the top of the mountains ;
the fruit thereof .sliall shake like Lebanon : and they of the
city shall flourish like the grass of the earth." Psa. Ixxxii :
10.

We were agreeably surprised to find a little company of
Christian workers and missionaries waiting for us at Bethel
Home, oiu- missionary home, on Tuesday evening, and as we
talked of our work, and all that was upon the Master's heart
for Jerusalem, Jesus Himself drew near, and we were all re-
freshed and comforted. There were Presbyterians, and Epis-
copalians; and almost all the missions were represented.

J-

X/JS.

D.IVS L\ PALESTIXK.

movement,
5 may quite
•ressed that
he Master's
from Jeru-
■oamod.
IIS their in-
ding to the
ii : 8. And
I may gcorn
>ry.

e were glad
ary journey
lid we could
>e felt in all
ord this pre-
;re shall be
mountains ;
tliey of the
Psa. Ixxxii :

company of
IS at Bethel
;, and as we
ister's heart
were all re-
is, and Epis-
3sented.

On the following evening we were invited to meet the
workers in another Home, and here we had the i)leasure of
meeting with a still larger company, including several of the
ministers and missionaries of the Church Missionary Society,
the oldest society and the largest in Jerusalem ; also some
from the Moravian and London Jews' Society. The spirit of
loving, humble and most brotherly unity was most cheering,
and we were so glad that our dear workers had come into
this pleasant atmosphere so soon. In many hearts there was
a real longing for deeper spiritual life, and the baptism of the
Holy Spirit. Of course there Avas not quite the freedom that
we so happily enjoy wheie all restrictions are removed ; but
theie was much more than we expected, and we believe God
is preparing a little company in Jerusalem, in many of the
missions, through wliom He can accomplish much for the
Avorld.

The two leading societies are the Church Missionary So-
ciety and the London Society for the Jews. The former has
seven central stations and forty outstations in Palestine, and
the latter is also doing an extensive work. The Moravians
have also a special Mission to the Lepers, and a Home for
them. We had a special commission given us for this class,
and we have met many of them on the road to Olivet, and
endeavored to fulfill our truct to the best of our ability. We
foimd many of them professional beggars, and not the most
honest people in the world. But their cries were distressing
and their need great. They are still outcasts — without the
city gates. But the government has provided a Home for

a -u :

90 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSL ' VARY LANDS.

all who will go, and the Moravians have anotlier, and there
is no need that any of them should be in utter distress.

The cry for "backshish" is one of the nuisances of this
land, and the mendicants are often unworthy. One old ras-
cal met us in rags at the Jaffa gate with outstretched hands,

TOMB OF RACHEL, ON THE ROAD TO HEBRON.

and our guide told us that he owned one of the finest estates
in the country,

"We spent one pleasant day visiting the country south of
Jerusalem. Abraham removed from Bethel to Hebron im-
mediately after his separation from Lot ; and so we also'
passed on the following day from Bethel to Hebron. Theie

INDS.

31', and thei'e
istress.
ances of this
One old ras-
tched hands,

finest estates

itry south of
1 Hebron ini-
1 so we also
bron. There

D.ns I.X r.lf.ESTINE.

is a fine carriage road, and the distance from Jerusalem is
eighteen miles. It is a ride of about five hours each way.
The road leads near to Bethlehem, and passes directly
through the valley of Eschol It was there that the spies
found the enormous grapes which two men had to i;arry on a
pole. The valley is still highly cultivated and filled with
vineyards, and the grapes are said to be as fine as ever.

Hebron is a
fine city of
eighteenthou-
sand inhabi-
tants . It
seems to be
most prosper-
ous. We saw
them making
the famous
skin bottles
out of goat
skins, which
are tan ned

and sewed together so that they look exactly like a stuifed
goat. We looked into one of the Moslem schools, and saw the
dominie sitting in the corner cross-legged, on a plank, which
one of our party called the school Board, and a dozen little
Arabs around him repeating and reading, from a tin slate,
passages of the Koran. We tried to buy one of the slatep»
but they said it was a sin, as the Koran was written on it.

ABRAHAM'S OAK, HEBRON.

I.ARG/:/^ OCTLOOKS OX MISSfOX.IRY L.IXPS.

However, money always prevails with an Arab, and a six-
pence secured an old cne, which we have for our missionary

HEBRON, AND MOSQUE OVER THE CAVE OF MACHPELAH.

museum. The Pool of David was there, and the tomb of
Abraham and Sarah, in Machpelah's cave. The plain of
Mamre is there, and an oak, at least one thousand years old,

, and a six-
missionary

.he tomb of
le plain of
i years old,

/?./)'.v /x r.u.f:si/\j-:.

no doubt just like the one where Abraham sat with the angels
and the Lord. The hills are there tliat Caleb won for his in-
heritance from the Anakim.

We found two dear missionaries there who are working

MISSION HOUSE, HEBRON.

in sympathy with the Alliance, and are members of the
"Bible Correspondence School," in New York. They are
Mr. and Mrs. Murray, worthy Scotch people, and are doing
an excellent work, and have much access to the Mos-
lems, often being permitted to sit for hours in the vine-
yards and read to them the Word of God. We also had the

LARGER OUTLOOKS OX MISSIONARY LANDS.

great privilege of assisting in the opening of a new Mildmay
Mission and Hospital at Hebron under the cliarge of Mrs.
Bowie of England and other workers ; and it was very sweet
to sit th(!r(> with a little company of about a dozen, and read
the old story of Caleb and Hebron, and claim a great blessing
upon the work.

There seems to be a l)etter opening in Hebron at this time
than in any i)art of Palestine. One reason is, jnerhaps, that
the Greeks and Latins have never got into the place, and the
Christians are not (mis) represented by them as they are in
so many other ])laces.

On our way home we stopped at Bethlehem, looked at the
Shepherd's Plains, the well of David, and the little limestone
cave in the Church of the Nativity, Avhich is probably the
birthplace of the Lord of glory. At least it spoke to our
heart, in the Sj .rit, as Calvary and Bethany had done, and
we are glad it was the last holy place we should have time to
see in Palestine, for it left, as our last thought— that which
Avas our Christmas message, and has become more and more
the sweet watchword of our simple life—" as a httle child."

How much there is in this wondrous land that speaks of
the Master and the Bible ! The little sparrows are still here,
of which He taught. The birds of the air are here that one
can still see devouring the seed as it falls by the wayside.
The flowers are everywhere, and they grow without care
where nothing else will live. The children are still sitting in
the market place ; and how one little fellow on Olivet did re-
mind us of the Master's words, "We have piped unto you,

INDS.

ew Mildmay
irge of Mrs.
s very sweet
^n, and read
reat blessing

1 at this time

erhaps, that

aco, and the

they are in

•oked at the
lie limestone
probably the
poke to our
id done, and
have time to
—that which
re and more
ittle child."
at speaks of
re still here,
lere that one
the wayside,
vithou't care
till sitting in
•livet did re-
d unto you,

/>.ns y.v /'.//. /•;.s/7.\7-;

and y<' have not danced ; wo have mom-ncd unto you, and ye
have not lamented." The little Arab wanted backshish very
ba<lly. He began by asking it directly, and my friend, who

■>^2v ^tWl 'am\ If

m^^^lm^^^.

BETHLEHEM FROM THE EAST.

could speak Arabic, tried to reason him out of it as a bad
thing for good boys. He became very good all at once and
followed us half an hour without opening his mouth. But,

(

96 L.lh'(./:h' OITLOOKS OX M/SS/OX.lh'V J..IXDS.

as lio Hiiw this did not bring any backshish, h«! began to " pipe "
to us. Ho went througli the gi-eatt'st lot of tricks and antics,
laughing, dancing, and telling us how ho loved us. This was
all unavailing. And then he b(>gan to mourn to us ; ho
showed us hifi ragged clothes, ho wailed most piteously, h(^
entreated, implored, until at last, after ho had walked half
round 01iv(>t, wo relented, and we gave him a little coin, not
mu<di, but enough to send him liom(> happy, and, as our
friend said— spoiled.

Hero are men plowing in the field, contrary t(^ the
Mosaic law, with a donkey and a heifer. And they all liold
the little crooked stick of a plow with one lutiid, and the
oxgoad with the other. It is just as Ho said, " He that put-
teth his lidiid to the plow and looketh l)ack is not tit for
the kingdom of God." There is only one hand at it, and it
must uever lot go or the woi-k is ruined.

Here are the two women grinding at the mill, for the big .
millstones are too heavy for one. One pushes the crank halt
round, and then the other pushes it the rest of the circle.
Here are the sandals, the waterskins, the little gate, called
Needle's Eye, and a thousand things that bring one into the
very atmosphere and native element of the Bible, and make
one feel what a marvelous teacher Jesus was, to fit His para-
bles and discourses so wondrously into the conuuon life of
the people, and make them alive with the images which ex-
pressed their daily life and experience.

What is the actual condition of Jerusalem and Palestine,
and the so-called Jewish movement ? There is no doubt

Lvns.

nto "pipo"

1 and iiutics,
s. This was
to us ; lio
)itoously, lie
walked lialf
;le coin, not
and, as our

•ary to the
hoy all hold
id, and tlm
lo that put-
} not lit for
at it, and it

I, for the big .
B crank hak"
f the circle,
gate, called
)ne into the
}, and make
fit His para-
niion life of
)S which ex-

id Palestine,
is no doubt

/>.i }s /.v /'. //./;.s//,\7f.

that there is a inovetnent, a forward movement, and a re-
markable one. Uf coui'se, compared with other counti'ies,
ralestin(! is yet, in many respects, a disappointment and a
desolation. The land and ev«'n the roads are still cov«'red with
barren rocks and desolati; ruins. But, compa'-^d with itself
a quaiter of a century ago, or even fifteen years ago it is
making extraordinary progress.

Tliere is now a railway running from Jerusalem to Jaffa,
and three more are under way in Northern Palestine. Jerusa-
lem is a city of nearly 70,000 people, and Nablous,— ancient
Shechem~-100,oOO, and both growing rapidly. Jaffa, Haiffa,
Nazareth, Hebron, Beyrut, Damascus, are all prosperous.
Inside of five years, the great mail route from P:ngland to In-
dia will most probably pass through Northern Palestine, and
will save over seven days on the time now occupied by the
Sue/ Canal. We were not able to visit Galilee, but were told
by gentlemen just from there that it is in every way far in ad-
vance of Southern Palestine, and most of the soil good and
productive. The Jewish colonies have been most successful,
and the foreign capital and enterprise that have been invest-
ed in the country have paid well, where wisely directed.

What about the Jewish movement ? Undoubtedly it is
making all the progress it can. There are 40,00o Jews, at
least, in Jerusalem, several thousand in Tiberias, and a good
m ny in the colonies and at other points. There would have
been far more if they had been allowed. Just after the
Russian persecution they began to arrive in whole shiploads.
The Turks and others at Jerusalem became alarmed and sent

9»

J.ARcr.K Ol'TI.OOKS OS MI.^^IOSARY I.AXPS,

a |»elinon to the SuUan, ami tho whole movoment was
i^wpped, ami no rnoi'e Jews jxTmif ted to land. Thin, |)oilia|»s,
wfitf p/' 'deal ill, as such rniml"* '-^ would have hroiight
plagiu' jiiid starvation if they had <'«>iitiniu'd. But they aro
still coiniiig in, more '|ui(>tly.

Tho Sultan has hitely passed a tirniiui forhidding Jinvs to
huy any nuuv propei-ty in Palestine. Hut this cannot last.
There was nuich destitution among the Jews in Jerusalem a
year ago, and tliere still is among some of the ])oorer classes ;
hut many of them are engaged in industry and trades, and
whole streets are occupied with their shops. There is also
a v(>ry large fund contrihuted hy Jews in all j)arts of the
woi'ld for tlieir jmor hrethren in Palestine.

What are \\w ])i'ospects of Christian work among them ?
Much of the Christian work in Palestine is among the Mos-
lems and Greeks, and the prospects among the former are
more hopeful than in any other land. But there is also much
good work among the Jews, and some result.

We talked with a very earnest yoimg Hebrew at one of
the meetings, who was just about ready to confess Christ,
and seemed most sincere and intelligent. One of the mis-
sionaries speaks of a movement even among the Rabbis. At
least the door is open to give them the message, and this is
our business,— the rest is the Lord's.

L pon the whole, wo are much more favorably impressed
with Palestine, with the spirit of the workers, and with the
prospects of Christian work there than we expected to *>'.
We looked for greater desolation than we found, and \vt.

r..ixns.

lovement was

This, |)»>rhMi>s,

havt' hrouKht

But tlioy are

iddiug Jews to
s cannot last,
n JcriiHalcMn a
)()orer classes ;
1(1 trades, and
There is also
1 parts of the

among them ?
long the Mos-
he former are
e is also much

rew at one of
onfess Christ,
e of the mis-
e Rabbis. At
;e, and this is

ibly impressed

and with the

icpected to bo.

bund, 'tnd we

n.ns fx r.iLiiSr/XE.

found much greater signs of life and progress than we ex-
pected.

Let us pray mightily for tlH> breaking of the Turkish
yoke, the influx of a new population, and the i)reparati(.u of
the way for the return of the best classes of the Jewish i)eo-
ple, the true "Kings of the p:ast."

And, above all, let us plead for *' the Spirit of grace and

POOL OF DAVID, HEBRON.

supplication to be poured out upon the house of David and
the inhabitants of Jerusalem," and a bap' ism of heavenly
power in the Holy Ghost on all who labor for the Jews.

When we were at Hebron they showed us the Pool of
David, and remarked that it was full this year, and there
would be a good and piosperous year, for the rains had been
abundant, and the crops would be good. The Pool of David
Avus the criterion of the rainfall and prosperity of the
country.

.1 1 ■■ . in T-'t -

ICX) LARGER OUTLOOKS O^^ MISSIONARY LANDS,

There is another pool,— the hlessed Holy Ghost, 0,
when that is full in every heart, and every mission field, the
harvest of the world will be all right. That is the need of
Jerusalem, of Palestine, of the heathen world, of the
churches and land at home. For this, let us cry "until the
Spirit be poured upon us from on high, and the wildernesa
be a fruitful field, and the fruitful field be counted for a
forest." Isaiah xxxii : 1").

ZION'S AWAKING.

Awake, awake ; O Zion,

Arise, Jerusalem ;
Shake olT thy chains and sackcloth.

Put on thy diadem.
Thy night is almost over,

Thy dawning draweth near,
Thy day of Promise basteth,—

Thy King will soon appear.

Long hath thy midnight lasted,

Hard hath thy bondage been ;
Cruel the shame and anguish

Thy weeping eyes have seen ;
But lift thine eyes, O Israel,

Forget thy Wailing Place ;
Once more thy King is coming

In glory and in grace.

Thy sons are crowding to thee,

Thy wastes are tilled once more,
Thy latter rains returning.

As in the days of yore ;
Thy vineyards and thy olives

Once more the mountains crown.
And 'neath their vine and flg-tree

Once more thy sons sit down.

'}' LANDS.

/KDS /.V I'AI.rSTlXE.

lOI

Holy Ghost. 0,
mission field, the
at is the need of
I world, of the
us cry "until the
id the wilderness
je counted for a

wn,

y~rrz'sr"^^;m>"

Once more the grapes of Eschol

In Hebron's vale are seen ;
Onoe more the plain of Sharon

Ih clothed in ricliest fjreen ;
The orange groves of Jaffa

Hang rich with harvests rare,
And hill and valley blossom

With flowers sweet and fair.

Thy streets and walls are spreading

With many a structure fair ;
Thy thoroughfares are crowded

With tranic t'verywhiM-e ;
Thy limits stretching northward

Fulfill the sacred sign,
And soon thy walls will cover

The Prophet's measuring line.

And many a town and hamlet

Is growing o'er the land,
The harbinger of progress.

And brighter days at hand.
And many a little circle

Of Israels sons has come,
And In thine ancient valleys

11 as found a prosperous home.

And now the engine's whistle

Is heard on Sharon's plain,
And Judah's mountains echo

The rushing railway train.
Yes, and o'er Syrian railways.

They tell us soon will ixmr
The trade of western nations

To India's distant shore.

The messengers of Jestis

Are gathering at thy gates,

And many a faithful watchman
In Zlon works and waits ;

I02

LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

Once more from Zion's threshold

The stream begins to How,
Whose deeper floods of blessing

To all the lands shall go.

From many a crue' nation

Thy suffering children flee,
Not knowing God is planniug

To drive them home to thee.
Thy strange, pathetic story,

Men cannot understand ;—
A land - without a people,—

A race— without a land.

But Israel shall be gathered.

From every race and clime,
On Zion's holy mountain

In God's apiKjinted time.
But first, the chosen "remnant"

Their Saviour mutt receive.
The "firrit fruits" of the nation

The gospel must believe.

And then, from Gentile nations

The Lord mutt bring His own.
And "unto ever creature

The witness be made known.
Then, He hath surely promised.

The glorious end shall come ;
The King shall come to Zlon

An I Israel gather home.

We hail that glorious morning ;

All things in « arth and sky,
And even in scatter* d Israel

Proclaim its advent nigh.
Awake, awake ; O Zion,

Thy day begins to dawn !
Lord, haste its glad appearing,--

Help us to speed it on.

VIII.

UNDER THE SHADOW OF THE PYRAMIDS.

ALTOGETHER we have spent a week in Egypt, and al-
jr\^ thongh yet it has been mucli broken, it has been
enough to give a very vivid, and perhaps fairly correct,
impression of tliis oldest country of the world. Three days
have been spent in Cairo—which is not only the centre and
capital of Elgypt, but, in a sense, a miniature of the world,
for almost all nations and religions are represented in its curi-
ous and motley crowds. Our business at this time is not
sight-seeing, but the higher business of the Master. We ha\ e
had time, incidentally, to read many pages from that mar-
vellous book of time and history, which so strangely empha-
sizes and confirms in every line the grander Book of Ood,

Cairo, even as a modern city, isi ntensely interesting. It
is the second city in the Turkish Empire, and the largest in
Africa. It has a population of nearly 400,000, of whom L'O,-
000 are Europeans, and the rest are Egyptians, Abyssinians,
Arabs, Turks, Syrians, and re])resentatives of almost every
country in Western Asia and Northern Africa. The streets
around the new hotels and the ICsebekeyah Gardens are quite
modern and very handsome. Three or four of the hotels are
very fine, large and fashionable; and, at this season, are over-
crowded with English and American travellers.

The most interesting portion of Cairo is the older city,
which dates back to the time of the Calii)hs and Saracens.

10.1

I04 LARGER OVTLOOk'S ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

Its streets are very iian-ow, crociked, and crowdcMl with
l){vzaars of every kind, where every ten feet an Arah, or Turk,
or some other curious-lookin^i? man is sitting cross-legged at a

little hole in the
wall, like a little
prairie dog at his
den. and surround-
ed hy his special
wares. Most of them
hav(> factory and
warehoiise all in one
small space. In Cai-
ro each trade has a
separated )azaar, and
so you will find the
shoemakers and
slipper vendoi's on
one alley making
and selling theii'
wares at the same
time. A little farth-
er on is the hrass
hazaar, and there
you can find the
workers in hrass,
making and chasing with their fine tools their vases, coffee pots,
candlesticks, urns, and all sorts of hrass goods. The goldsmiths
have a (luarter, the rug and carpet dealers, the silk emhroid-

A STREET IN CAIRO.

AKDS.

•owdod Avitli
ral), or Turk,
is-l«^ggo(l at a
liolc in the
like a little

(log at his
lul siui'ound-

his special
Most of them
factory and
Diiseallinone
space. InCai-
1 trade has a
tehazaai', and
I will find the
iiakers and
• vendors on
dley making
selling their

at the same
A little farth-

is the hrass
1-, and there
3an find the
srs in brass,
es, coffee pots,
'he goldsmiths
silk einbi-oid-

VNJ)/:A- TIIIC SHADOW OF -1 III-: PYRAMIDS.

105

erers, the dealers iu prints, etc., and one's eyes are dazzled
and bewildered by the most glaring colors, and his ears al-
most deafened by the jargon of many tongnes and ci-ies of
eager vendors and bargain makers. If you want to pnichase

CAIRO.

anything you may always count on a reduction of from 50 to
<i() per cent., and althougli the Arab will stoutly assure you
that he has only one price, yet the sight of the money, and
your back as you turn to go away and really mean it, always
brings him to terms, and he consents to let >jou have it for

Io6 LARGER OUTLOOKS OiV MLSSIONARV LAXDS.

that low price, anrl then you may l)e |»r('tty suit", in most
cases, that he has the hest of the har^ain.

The view of Cairo from the citadel i« surpassingly beauti-
ful. The elevatiou is quite high and commands a wide and
striking panorama. All around you is historic ground. The
balcony on which you are standing is i)art of the most beau-
tiful moscpie in Cairo, perhaps in the world, the Mosque of
Mohammed Ali, whose graceful minarets and magnificent
dome are but indexes of the exquisite interior, surpassing, we
think, except only in its windows, the interior of the Moscpie
of Omar at Jerusalem.

At our feet Cairo lies spread, a brilliant panorama of
houses, streets, minarets and domes. More than three hun-
dred mosipies are in the picture, a forest of graceful spires
and minarets, imequalled for striking beauty of design by
anything in the world. At night the tops of many of these
minarets are lighted all round the narrow windows which sur-
mount their graceful summits, and they look like lamps
suspended from the skies. To the left, lies old Cairo. Away
in the distance the Nile runs, like a silver thread, as the
western boundary of the modern city. Across the Nile
rise the massive Pyramids, about five miles distant. Fring-
ing lines of acacias and palms stretch giacefully along
the river, and fields clothed in living green spi'ead away off to
the right — down to the luxuriant Delta,---vvhile beyond the
Pyramids to the west, the sandhills and plains of the desert
stretch out till they meet the distant horizon..

Looking up the Nile to the left you see the outlines
of other pyramids, sharply cut against the sky — about ten or

lie, in most

it<;ly beauti-
a wide and
•ouiul. Thn
} most beau-
Mosque of
magnificent
[•passing, we
the Mos(iue

•anorama of
three hun-
iceful spires
>f design by
any of these
s which sur-
like lamps
airo. Away
read, as the
ss the Nile
ant. Fring-
jfully along
away off to
beyond the
f the desert

the outlines
about ten or

uxi)/:r rm: snAimw of thi: rvRAMins.

107

twelve miles away. Tliis is Sakkara, the site of ancient
Memphis, once tlie capital of lower Egypt, and the seat of
the Pharaohs, where still arc to be seen many wonderful
monum<'nts and tombs.

You are looking on tlie relics of fifty centuries. The
well beside you is called the well of Joseph ; the pyramids

AN ANCIENT EGYPTIAN TEMPLE.

before you were there when Abraham entered the land.
The little island of Roda, yonder beside old Cairo, is said to
be the place where Moses was found, but this is more than
doubtful. But yonder ruins at Memphis doubtless mark the
site of the splendid court where he might have reigned ; and
had he not refused to be called the son of Pharaoh's daugh-

io8

LARCER orr/.OOh'S ox MISS/O.WIRY L.ixns.

tor, his muniniy W(»ul(l probably to-day lie foiin«l in tbo
royal company that stand hi a row in the famous nuiscuni
yonder that wo visited to-day. WoU, Moses had a grander
tomb on Nt'bo's lu'ight, and he stands to-day in tlio glory
Avliirli shone out for a jnonient on the Transfiguration night,
Avitii a body wliich pool' old Rameses would give all Egy])t to
jtosaess and beside wliich all the obsolete grandeur of Mem-
l)his, Thebes, Zoan, Luxor and Karnak are poor and con-
temptible indeed.

Of course we went to the Pyramids. It is a delightful
drive of about two hours, over a splendid road built by old
Ismail Pasha, the Khedive Avho gave Egypt nearly all her
Avondorfnl imi)i()vements ; and, in oi-der to do it, loaded her
with the enoi-mons debt that has brought in the English
army of occu])ation, to guarantee the interest to the English
capitalists who hold the bonds. This has reduced Egypt to
the condition, i)ractically, of a British jirovince. It is said,
the old Khedive, after visiting Paris, resolved to make his fair
capital a second Paris ; and so he went on cutting boulevards,
laying out gardens, planting avenues, building ])alaces, and
rearing mosques, until he had realized his fond ambition, and,
at the same time, reduced his country to udnkrupt(-y, as the
price of his beautiful dream.

The road to tht^ Pyramids is lined with fine acacia trees,
and thronged with long lines of loaded camels, donkeys, and
women coming into market. The camels carry more than
half a ton on their immense backs ; the donkey, about one-
sixth of the size, has nearly half as big a load. After seeing

V7).S".

11(1 in tho
s iimscum
a grander
11)0 glory
tion night,
11 Egy])t to
V of Mem-
r and con-
del iglitfnl
•uilt by old
rly all her
loaded lu'r
lie English
;he English
fl Egypt to
It is said,
ake his fair
)oulevaids,
alaces, and
lition, and,
toy, as the

nacia trees,
nkeys, and.
more than
about one-
fter seeing

r'NDF.K Till': siiAPow or i iii: rvkWMins.

109

the donkeyy of Palestine and Egypt, we shall never again joke
nor Hiiflfer others to joke about the noble ass.

Our horse in Palestine stumbled and fell on us ; but our
donkey in Egyi)t carried us about Avilh luxurious ease, and
all the arts of horsemanship wen; (juitf* unncc<'ssary. You
have only to sit in the c(Mnfoitable saddle, and let him trot
or c£inter along as he jileases, while your donkey boy runs
behind, goading and guiding liim whither he will. He always
manages to go right, and gets through i)laces no other creat-
ure ever could. He can go on stony jjaths or mountain
passes, or crowded thoroughfares, or narrow passages, with
perfect coolness and safety ; and stands with a patience,
which many a Christian might well imitate, hardships and
cruelties which have often made us feel ashamed of the
master and jiroud of the soulless hrute. They beat him,
sometimes they half starve him, tliey load him down till his
knees fairly tremble, and he just goes on his way fulfilling
his useful course with a i)atience worthy of a higher nature.
Some one in Palestine asked an Arab how long a donkey
would live. "If you feed him," replied the Arab, " he will
live forever." One would think so, when you see how long
they live with their present treatment. No Moslem nor
Arab ever feels insulted when you call him an ass. You can
hardly pay him a higher compliment.

But there is another burden bearer in the train. It is the
Egyptian woman. Everywhere you can see her with her big
basket .or earthen pitcher on her head, walking erect as a
statue, and carrying it without a quiver, and without even

LARCEK Ol'TLOOKS OX MlSSfOXARY /..tXPS.

touching it with one of licr lingi'is. Wo saw ji woman yes-
tenhiy trying to take up a hurdi-n wliich sho could not Hft to
licr licad, but liad to get a nuui to lielpher to load it up ; hut,
when onc(> she got it on the littlo cushion upon thu crown of
her head, she started olT as ciisily as if sht> liad only an ostrich
feather there.

Most of their faces are coveied, except Ine eyes and
brow, and a great many wear a hideous brass ornament be-
tween their eyes, that gives them an outlandish exjjression.
The one thing lacking in all these scenes is the face and pres-
ence of a true woman. One sees the dear children every-
Avhere, in all their simplicity, fi-eedom and real beauty, but
we look and long in vain for the women we ai'c accustomed
to see in our Christian civilization. Woman is left out of
oriental society, and life is withered and blighted by the un-
natural omission. The higher classes are shut away in idle,
luxurious isolation ; the lower are almost beasts of burvlen for
their lords and mastei-s. The softening, refining, elevating
influence of woman's society is wholly lost.

Some of the missionaries told us what a surprise it was
when they invited Moslem gentlemen in to spend a social
evening, to find they could sit and talk on social terms with
women. It was to them a new, and, we are glad to believe,
to many a delightful world, and gave them an attractive view
of the sweet, human side of Christianity. Little does w^oman
know what she owes to Christianity, and little does man
realize how much w^oman's elevation has Senefited him, and
lifted up his life and happiness.

I.\7)S.

woman yes-
Id not lift to
:1 it np ; but,
[>e crown of
ly an ostrich

lie (ivcs and
rnamcnt bo-

exprcssion.
,ce and pios-
dron every-
boauty, but
accustomed

left out of
1 by the un-
vvay in idle,
f buivlen for
g, elevating

pi'ise it was
■nd a social
terms with
to believe,
ractive view
:loes woman
) does man
}d him, and

S
<
cc

Immmn ijiMHi i » i n-. ' aii» i i w

111

o
z
<

1)
a

s
<

rxn/:K rm: sii.inow of the rvK.iMnis.

I II

Olio boautinil picture we must give. It was on that Hame
road to the I 'y nvinids Among many others, wo met a woman
carrying a great load upon lier liead. But in her arms nho
also lu'Id a babe ; and we noticed that she liad hotli her arms
about lier child, and trusted the burden to her skill and
strength, but held \wv ])recious child in a mother's loving
arms. It was the mother heart triumphing over even the
thought of her material interest. It reminded us of Him
who carries the government upon His shoulders, but He holds
His children in His arms !

But we have got to the Pyramids. Yes, there they are !

"These mighty Pyramids of Htone,

That wedgelike ch'ave the deMert aire,
When nearer seen and better known
Are hut gigantic steps of stairs. "

But what enormous stairs they are ! Four hundred and
seventy feet high, and twice ns> wide at the base. And the
steps are great stone Ijlocks, about a yard high, so that you
have to be pulled up by thi'ee stout Arabs, and coming down,
held by a long turban tied around your waist to keep you
from falling down headforemost.

We n'jed not stay to give their history. They are great
tombs built by one of the oldest of the Egyptian kings —
Cheops — before the time of Abraham. The interior consists
of a long passage downward, for a while at an angle of forty-
five degrees, and then upward, followed by a level passage,
ending at last in a lai-ge gallery, called the King's Chamber,
under which is a smaller one called the Queen's Chamber.

112 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON AUSSIONARY LANDS.

Here were found the sarcophagi and mummies. Tlie passages
are ventilated by air shafts from above. 0, what a waste of
toil and treasure for a transient tomb !

In keeping with this was the skill and expense bestowed
upon the embalming of the dead. The Egyptians built the
houses of the living of perishable brick, and the houses of tlie
dead of enduring granite. Was it the fear of death that
made them struggle so hard to resist its ravages ? Was it
the idea of immortality that made them long to keep the
very dust from perishing ? Or was it their strange idea that
while the body lasted, the spirit continued to exist in Para-
dise ; but if the earthly frame should vanish, the spirit-life
would forever fade away ? Poor things ! how vain their tre-
mendous fight with death ! How ghastly and ineffectual the
triumphs of all their splendid mortuary architecture ! How
easily faith leaps at a bound from yonder open grave at Jeru-
salem into the glorious reality which all these mummies,
tombs an 1 pyramids only shadowed faintly and afar off !
Oh, how we thank Him who "has abolished death and
brought life and immortality to light through the Gospel."

Many of our readers know that a very elaborate effort
has been made by such writers as Piazzi Smith, Dr. Seiss,
and others, to prove that the internal passages and chambers
of the great Pyramid are prophetic of the future ages. They
have found in the scales of measurement, and the relative di-
mensions of the passages, and many other most interesting
particulars, a sort of diagram of the course of time up to the
Lord's return; also they believe that the "pillar on the

HHIMMHipi

LANDS.

. Tlie passages
^'hat a waste of

pense bestowed
ptiaiis built tbe
he houses of tlie
• of death that
vages ? Was it
)ng to keep the
trange idea that
> exist in Para-
1, the spirit-Ufe
.V vaiu their tre-
1 ineffectual the
litecture ! How
sn grave at Jeru-
hese mummies,
Y and afar off !
shed death and
1 the Gospel."
elaborate eifort
mith, Dr. Seiss,
BS and chambers
;ure ages. They
i the relative di-
most interesting
f time up to the
"pillai* on the

UNDER THE SHADOW OF THE PYRAMIDS. 113

border of Egypt," mentioned by Isaiah, is nothing nlse than
this old Pyramid of Ghizeh.

The argument is certainly very plausible, and the coinci-
dences strange; but to many it is probably somewhat strained,
and, at best, a system of very extraordinary correspondences.
Happily, we have "a more sure word of i)rophecy "' than old
Pharaoh's necropolis.

The Arabs, donkeys and camels were almost as interest-
ing to us as the Pyramids. They (the Arabs) had a great
fight for half a piastre, which one had failed properly to share
with the others. There were screams and blows, and, for a
while, nearly all the crowd took a hand in it, but nobody was,
hurt. The coin in question is only about three cents.

The Sphinx is wonderful. It stands ({uite near the great
Pyramid. The actual view of that face of stone is very
touching. The expression of calm repose and gentleness
is not imaginary. It seems Hke old Father Time, looking
down on one hundred and fifty generations of his children,
and smiling at

"Their clalmH of long descent"

What children we all are under the shadow of that face
of nearly five thousand years ago ! But even thou, ancient
Sphinx, art but a shadow of the "Rock of Ages,'— that
Blessed One who is "the same yesterday, and to-day, and for-
ever,' with whom " a thousand years are as one day, and
one day as a thousand years," and whose heart has been
"our dwelHng-place in all generations."

The most wonderful Museum in the world now stands

114

LARGER OUTLOOK'S ON ?TISSIONARY LANDS.

midway between the Pyramids and Cairo. It is the famous
Museum of Egyptian antiquities, establislied through the
labors and researches of Mariette, Brugsch Bey, and other
Egyptologists, and contains nearly all the best results of the
explorations and discoveries of the past few years. It was
formerly at Bulak, but has now been removed to the old
pabce of the Khedive. The building is most magnificent,
and the gardens luxuriant beyond description.

One gets some idea, from looking at this palace and
grounds, of the selfish indulgence of oriental despots.
Grottoes, fountains, walks, bridges, hanging gardens, sum-
mer houses, trees, shrubs, flowers of every kind, make it like
a dream of beauty. The very walks, for miles, are mosaics of
inlaid stones, and the garden walls are built of stucco and
coral, with niches in the masonry for the trees and flowers,
and all so wound together as to look like natural rocks and
pine -covered terraces of tropical luxuriance. And all this
was supplied by the toil and suffering of a whole nation for
the indulgence of one selfish man, and, perhaps, three or four
hundred poor women, whom he held in luxurious slavery in
this and half a dozen other similar palaces. What a farce the
government of this world is, and how we long for the true
King !

The interior of the palace is still more splendidly deco-
rated. But it is now put to a better use, as the repository of
the treasures of Egypt's tombs. The only defect about it is
the lack of proper i)rovision in case of fire. A single hour
might destroy, by sudden conflagration, treasures which could
not be bought for hundreds of millions.

LANDS,

UNDER Tirr. SHADOW OF THE PYRAMIDS.

is the famous
[ through the
5ey, and other
results of the
years. It was
red to the old
i magnificent,

is palace and
mtal despots,
[gardens, sum-
3, make it like
are mosaics of
of stucco and
9 and flowers,
iral locks and
And all this
lole nation for
3, three or four
ous slavery in
hat a farce the
y for the true

Dlendidly deco-
le repository of
ect about it is
A single hour
es which could

We were informed that no less than one million dollars
we^e offered hy some parties in the United States for the
privilege of exhibiting the mummy of old Rameses in the
United States for a short time. Of course, it was refused ;
and many millions could not buy it. We were surprised at

the great number of
monuments that are
preserved from the
fourth and fifth dynas -
ties, — long before the
time of Abraham.
The amount of costly
and t xquisite jewelry
found on the mum
mies, and preserved in
tbe Museum, shows
how advanced the fine
arts were in the ear-
liest periods.

Of course, the great

object of our interest,

and the centre of at

traction to all the

visitors, wa^ the great

Central Chamber

where the royal mummies are on exhibition. There the

centre of interest was the great Rameses II., the oppressor

of the Israelites, and his face and head were even more ex-

RAM eses II.

Il6 I.ARGliR OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

pressive of character and forco than even the excellent
photograph that most of us have seen. There was ^his
father Scti, and most of his successors for a long time, with
the strange exception of his son and successor, Meneptah, the
Pharaoh of the Exodus. Where is his body ? Why do we
not have his mummy ? Will it yet be found, or is it in the
bottom of the Red Sea 'i Strange, the i-evenges of history and
Providence !

We should think that every Jew would like to go and
look at that hdlpless face. The man that cast little Mosea
into the Nile, and ground the lives of three millions of people
to the dust, is not terrible now. The humblest Hebrew caa
look in his face and laugh him to scorn. So will all our terri-
ble foes be some day. Only wait !

The story of the finding of these mummies was very won-
derful, and was surely one of those providences which are so
strangely making the ages meet in the last age of time, and
causiuj^ the recoi'ds of nature to confirm God's Holy Word in
the face of man's proud infidelity. It was this :

Up at ancient Thebes, which was the faA-^orite capital of
old Rameses, they had his tomb and the tombs of many of
the preceding and succeeding kings, and there was no doubt
of the identification ; but they could not find the sarcophagus
or the mummy. All the tombs, indeed, were empty. They
searched in vain, and it seemed as if the mystery woidd never
be unsealed. But, one day, it was found that an Arab was
selling some costly relics that evidently belonged to these
tombs. Mr. Mariette, one of the leading Egyptologists,

\NDS.

le excellent
cro was his

•

g timo, with
eneptah, the
Why do we
is it in the
f history and

:e to go and
I little Mose&
)ns of people
Hebrew can.
all our terri-

asvery wou-
which are bo
3f time, and
[oly Word in

te capital of
1 of many of
'as no doubt
sarcophagus
iipty. They
would never
an Arab was
ged to these
gyptologists.

UNDER THE SHADOW OF THE PYRAMIDS.

117

learned of it, and found him out. A large sum was demanded
for the secret— $2,500— and it was instantly granted ; and,
indeed, was but a fraction of the real value— millions would
"be given to-day. And the secret was divulged. A secret
passage was found, which this man had accidentally discov-
ered, leading down to a large subterranean <;hamber, very
plain and simple, to which, in a time of threatened war and
danger, the care-taker of the tombs had removed all the royal
munmiies for safety. And there, in that lone gallery, Ram-
eses and his family of kings were found lying in silence and
obscurity, waiting God's hour for them to come forth and
attest the truth of His ancient story.

No wonder that the great Brugsch Bey, when he stood
in that royal chamber of the silent dead, raised his hands and
said, "Have I lived to see this day if "

The interest and profit of our visit to this Museum, even
for one brief afternoon, was greatly increased by the presence
of a friend who resides in Cairo, one of the American mis-
sionaries, who had given much intelligent study and consid-
erable research to this most interesting field.

One of our most interesting and memorable visits was to
the great Mohammedan University of Cairo, the famous
Mosque of El Azhar. It is the largest university in the world,
and the principal Mohammedan school.

Of course, we had to get a permit, and <;p enter the sacred
enclosure with sandaled feet. They used to require the Chris-
tians to put off thoir shoes, but now, by a sort of whitewash-
ing process, they put on a ])air of holy sandals over your shoes
— foi- the consideration of a few piastres.

Il8 LARCUR orTLOOKS ON AriSSrON.IR) f .'1NDS.

We have seldom been more touched than by the scene in
this old Mosque. In a vast enclosure, filled with pillars and
corridors, were scores of groups like the classes of a great
Sunday School, all sitting crosslegged on the door, each group
gathered round a teacher, who was sitting' among them and
teaching them with all his might something from the Koran.
They are said to teach everything here ; not only Moslemism
and the Koran, but also other branches.

What touched us was the intense earnestness of both
teachers and students. The adults v/ere all men, and they
seemed to be men of one idea. Many of the teachers wore
the green turban, showing that they had been to Mecca and
had accomplished the Pilgrimage so sacred to Moslems.
There are said to be 10,000 to 12,o00 students in attendance
always at this school, almost all preparing for missionary
work throughout the world. We saw no such number as
this, but there were a good many hundred. We saw enough,
however, to let us realize the intense earnestness and power
of this system based on one book, and interweaving that book
with all their higher and lower education, and making it the
chief text book in all their schools. If Christianity had
treated the Bible as Mohammedanism the Koran, it would
long ago have become the religion of the world.

There is one thing of which we need have no doubt— and
that is, the intense and entire satisfaction and enthusiasm
with which Moslems regard their rehgion, and the contempt
with which they regard all others. They look upon Christi-
anity as a religion from which tliey have taken all that is

'1NDS.

the scene in

I pillars and
s of a great
[•, each group
ig them and
[1 the Koran.
r Moslemism

ness of both
en, and they
eachers wore
o Mecca and
to Moslems.

II attendance
r missionary
h number as
saw enough,
;s and power
ing that book
uaking it the
istianity had
ran, it would

o doubt — and
i enthusiasm
the contempt
upon Christi-
an all that la

y^v.y>^fa^naaa^

120 LARGER Ol'TI.OOKS OX MFSSrONARY LANDS.

worth keeping, and have addea the lugher lovelation of Mo-
liammed. Tliey have heen through Christianity and got be-
yond it. 'J'liey accept Abraham, Moses, Christ, hut Moham-
med is beyond them all, the last and greatest of thi^ ])r()phet8.
Our dragoman said to us yesterday, in the Moscpie of Mo-
hanuued Mi, "They teach us in the miiversity that (iod is
one, only one. He has no Father, no Mother, no Son." And
lie looked as if he had a self-evident truth.

They regard all Christians as believing that Mary is the
Mother of God, and they hate it. Nothing has so hindered
Christianity in the world and in the East as the absurd cari-
catures of the Roman and Greek Churches.

During our visit to Cairo the Roman Carnival was ob-
served. The whole day was given n\) to processions and pan-
tomimes, just like the Mardi (Iras of New Orleans. The
Avhole thing was a lmrles(iue and a farce. But everybody
went out to see it, and the day was a public holiday. It was
considered by the Moslems as the beginning of the Oiristian
season of fasting and i.rayer, and the missionaries were con-
gratulated all round on the Christian feast, and wishes ex-
tended to them for a year of blessing. What but the power
of God, and a real and living Christianity, can ever meet and
counteract this awful caricature !

Unfortunately too many of our English and American
Christians leave an influence but little better. But few of
them ever find out the missions or the missionaries, and
their influence among the natives reminds one of the prayer
of the little Sunday Schoolgirl in Brooklyn, one night, just as

l^DS.

UNDER THE SHADOW OF THE I'YRAMIDS.

I ,'I

,ion of Mo-
uld v^oi be-
lut Moham-
et ])r()pyiet9.
(jiu" of Mo-
:luii (iod is
Son." Aud

Vlary is the
so hindered
ibsurd cari-

val was ob-
)ns and pan-
leans. The
t everybody
lay. It was
le Christian
(s were con-
1 wishes ex-
t the power
er meet and

d American
But few of
ouaries, and
F the prayer
light, just as

they were preparing to go to the coimtry for tlie summer
vacation. Slie knelt down at her little cot-side, and was
lieard to say, "Dood-bye, l)()d, wc's goin' to the country."

But there is a most excellent missionary work being done
in Kgypt.

The pleasantest incident of our visit to Cairo was our
visit to the American Mission coimected with the United
Presbyterian Church of this country. We were most cour-
teously received, and foimd tlu; Mission in a most flourishing
condition. There are now stations in all the f^gyptian prov-
inces, and a large and growing work is going forward.
There are over :?()(» pupils in the .school in Cairo, and nearly
4.(MK» communicants in all Egypt. There are a few Moham-
medan converts, but the work is chit^fly among the Copts, the
old National Christian Chuich of Egypt, but one that has
more degent>rated than perhajjs any of the oriental churches.
AVe hear, however, of important changes that are taking
place, and some look forward toward reform.

We cannot too highly express our api)reciation of the
kindness received from some of the members of the Mission-
ary Home in Cairo, and oiu* gratitude to God for the work
that has been acconii)lished.

But little work is done by any other Society. The Churcli
Missionary Society of England lias a few laborers. And yet,
after all, the Egyptian nation with its millions of Moslems
has been but lightly touched, and we need to pray much for
Egypt.

How wonderfully God has fulfilled prophecy in this old

■I

^^BSI^mKs-i^iiO^

m^"

122 LARGER Orri.OOKS OX MfSS/ON.lRY f.ANPS.

laud 1 It is, indeed, " the basest of kingdoms," and the pres-
ence of English soldiers evcuywhero makes one feel how
truly God has remembertid His ancient word r(>apecting it,
and held it in a place; of subjection and humiliation.

But there is hope for Egypt yet, in the same prophetic
Word. The plan of the ages has linked Egyi)t with Israel
in the promises of the Millennial Age. Lord, hasten that
longed-for day 1

IVPS.

nd tho pres-

10 feci how

specting it,

»n.

o prophetic

with IsriK'l

lastc'ii that

IX.

ISMAILIA TO BOMBAY.

AVPiRY slow and tcnHous railway lido of soveii hours,
which, according to tho schedulo time, should only
havo hoeu three hours and a half, took us from Cairo
to Ismailia ahout one o'clock in the morning, and at five -we
were awakened hastily to meet our steamer for India. Our
Aral) attendant had promised exuberantly, tlu; night before,
to awake us an hour before the time for starting, but when
the morning came, he forgot to call us until tho tender was
about ready to start ; and we got a gooil illustration of the
necessity of being " always ready " for the Master's call.

Wo were glad we had everything packed tht^ previous
night and had not nuich di-essing to do. "VVo found tho
"Oceana" a very fine boat, (pn'tc equal to car best Atlantic
steamers. Down the R< ' a slm has made faster time than
the "Servia" did, attaining about 375 miles a day.

We have a most deiigiitful party of passengers, including
quite a number of ministers and missiouari(?s going to the
East. Every mv uing at ten thej'o is a daily prayer-meeting,
which is a time uf refreshing, and there is less drinking than
we have yet seen on any steamship.

The second class saloon accommodation is sub'^<;uitially

t»3

124

LARGER OrTLOOKS OX MISSIONARY LA jYDS.

as good as the first class on the Atlantic steamers. Tliis is
not true, however, of niany of the steamers.

We are sorry, in one sense, that we have to leave her at
Aden and take a smaller steamer for Bombay, as the

"Oceana" goes on
direct to Culombo
and Australia. But
we shall keep a few
of our passengers,
who are going also
to India, and, we
doubt not, our dear
and mindful JMaster
has prepared even
better things for us
there. His good-
ness to us in this
whole voyage is be-
yond the power of
words to express.
We have been con-
scious every mo-
ment of a cloud of
ceaseless prayer en-
compassing us, and His Presence has been real, restful
and comforting as never before. Truly He has tra\elled
with us all the way, and we love to commend Him to
lonely hearts. Like a little child we go on, not knowing

AN ARAB DHOW.

LAjXPS.

ISMAFLIA TO IWMnAY.

125

mei's. Tliis is

;o leave her at
nibay, as the
?ana" goes on
t to Colombo
\.ustralia. But
iiall keep a few
Lir passengei's,
are going also
iidia, and, we
t not, our dear
nindful ]\Iaster
prepared even
■r things for us
;. His good-
to us in this
e voyage is be-
[ the power of
Is to express,
have been con-
is every mo-
t of a cloud of
iless prayer en-
n real, restful
s has tra\elled
imend Him to
, not knowing

much before, and we find all the way prepared, and are ever
conscious of His interposing and protecting love.

On our journey in Palestine from Jerusalem to Bethel our
horse gave a sudden spring, and the next moment he was
down on his side, falling on our right leg. It seemed inevit-
able that we must be injured. But we rose and walked along
awhile to get our joints adjusted, and looked up to Him with
thanks and trust, aud found, that beyond a little sprain in
one hand, a scratch on the other arm, and a little bruising of
the muscles of the leg, we were not injured at all, and even
the little touch of pain He quite took away — in a little while.
Our friend urged us to exchange horses and let him take ours ;
but we felt it would really be distrust, and would look like
depending on the other horse rather than upon God, and so
we simply watched our pony more carefully, and kept look-
ing to the Lord^ and got through the day delightfully.

The next day, as we were driving to Hebron, our Arab
driver got very cold, and jumped from the seat, and ran be-
hind the carriage awhile to get warm. The carriage blinds
were down, and we did not see him or know exactly what he
was doing, when, suddenly, we heard a cry, and found the
wheel had gone over a steep embankment ; the carriage was
just holding by the axle, which was fiat on the ground. We
leaped out and thanked the Lord for keeping us from going
over. Then we helped the poor fellow, who was white with
fear, to draw the carriage back on the road by turning the
team across the road, and pulling hard ; and we went on
trusting and watching. We do not mean at all to encourage

''S^S^K'

SSI'S

126 LARGER OUTLOOKS OX MrSSfOXARY LAXDS,

carelessness. We endeavor to be wise and watchful, but all
our watching cannot anticipate the ten thousand perils that
are ever around us, and it is so blessed to know and con-
stantly find that He is, indeed, our Keeper, and v-hal He
never slumbers nor sleeps.

We find the sun in this Eastern world has a strange and
dangerous power. Even when the air is so chilly that you
have to keep on a heavy overcoat, you must not let the direct
rays of the sun strike your head, or you are conscious of a
very curious sensation, and would soon become ill. We are
fitted out with pith hats, and learn to use white umbi^llas
The promise has a very real meaning: "The Ijord if thj
Keeper ; the Lord is thy shade on thy right hand ; the sun
shall not smite thee by day. " The Arabs all cover their heads,
both from the cold and heat. Their turbans consist of a
very long piece of muslin folded over and over again, and,
although they look so hot, they really shield the head from the
sun, and keep it in a wholesome perspiration. In the cold-
est weather the Arab's feet and legs are usually quite bare ;
but, if he can get his head muffled up, he feels quite com-
fortable.

How the customs of the country constantly speak to us
about the Bible ! For example, riding the other day through
the crowded streets of Cairo, with our donkey boy running
behind us, we did not need to think about our road, so long
as he was silent, but just went on without anxiety ; but
when we heard his voice we knew there was something to be
done — either a turn or a halt. How it recalled the words :

' LAXDS.

atchful, but all
land perils that
know and con-
', and v,hal He

s a strange and
chilly that you
ot let the direct
i conscious of a
ne ill. We are
hite umbi'^llas
he liord if th^
hand ; the sun
ver their heads,
QS consist of a
ver again, and,
e head from the
1. In the cold-
ally quite hare ;
3els quite com-

bly speak to us
er day through
By boy running
r road, so long
b anxiety ; but
omething to be
lied the words :

ISM AIL [A TO DOM DAY.

127

"Thou shalt hear a voice behind thee, saying, This is the
way, walk ye in it, when ye turn to the right hand and to the
left." It is only when we have to turn, that we may need to
hear the voice. God is not always speaking to us, but we
may be sure we shall hear it when we come to the crisis

IRRIGATING ON THE NILE.

hours of life, and need to turn round or take any serious new
step. When we have His silence and peace, let us go on
with simple trust and confidence. Then we noticed that the
voice was always b^hind us. And so God leads us and speaks
to us out of the quiet moments of recollection, when we take
time to hear His gentle voice.

128 LARCER OUTLOOKS ON M/SS/ONARV LANDS.

The skies and sunsets of this land are wonderful. The
after glow that follows sunset is beautiful and glorious
After the sun goes down over the desert, full-orbed and almost
crimson-hued, you can see the stars in the zenith in a few
seconds. Last night we saw the first star less than three
minutes after sunset. And then begins, on the horizon, the
most beautiful series of metamorphoses. First, there ia
usually a moderate glow in the East, reaching up, perhaps,
twenty degrees from the horizon, and rather deeply tinted
in amber and gold. But this soon fades, and in the west,
right over the place where the sun went down, there hangs a
halo of many-tinted glory for some time, changing its varied
and blended hues, from pink to crimson, lilac and gold, and
at times making you really feel that you are gazing at some
superb illumination.

The other night in Cairo, more than an hour after sun-
set, when it was perfectly dark, and all the stars were out ia
every part of the sky but this, the fiery cloud hung for a
long time, and we felt, for a time, that there must be a
great fire in the city. But it gradually faded away, and we
knew that it was just "the after-glow." Last night, over
the shores of the Red Sea and the mountains of Abyssinia, it
lingered until, at least, three hours after sunset, making one
think of the glory that followed the setting of the Sun of
Righteousness, and the light that is shining still over the
place where He died and rose again, and ascended to shine in
other skies, until He shall return some brighter morning, and
we shall see in yonder East the Aurora of the Eternal Dawn.

clerful. The
id glorious
d and almost
ith in a few
than three
horizon, the
:st, there is
up, perhaps,
leeply tinted
in the west,
here hangs a
ng its varied
nd gold, and
zing at some

ir after sun-
j were out ia
I hung for a
•e must be a
way, and we
t night, over
Abyssinia, it
making one
f the Sun of
itill over the
3d to shine in
morning, and
ternal Dawn.

ISMAILIA TO liOMllAY.

129

But we have a gladder, grander pleasure even than this.
We have just been permitted to see the beginning of the skies
of the southern hemisphere, and the beautiful Southern
Cross, which is to the sailor of the southern seas very nuich

ON THE SUEZ CANAL,

what the Pole Star is to the navigator of the north— the Pole
star of his sky.

To us it was the much more beautiful and significant
symbol of our blessed Redeemer. All nature was made for
Him and speaks for Him, and, surely, the four crimson stars
which form this celestial cross may be permitted to bear wit-

130

LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

iiess to Him Avliom His own disciples have so little made
known to these southern lands.

As we, on the Red Sea, watched its appearence for the
first time, we had no interpreter but the voice in our own
heart. The hour was late, the passengers were asleep, and
we seemed to feel that we had God all to ourselves on this
side of the world at least, for, on the other, our blessed Friday
meeting was at that very hour going on, and about reaching
its close. Up to this time we had been too far north to see
this constellation. But now we felt we must be near the
])lace of its appearing, and so we sat upon the deck, in the
balmy air that floated over from the Arabian plains, and
Avatched the south-eastern sky, as star after star that we had
never seen before slowly rose from the sea, floated over a low
curve, and sank again into the sea a little farther west. We
need not tell our readers that the stars on the southern hori-
zon describe a very short course till they disappear.

At last a cluster appeared, of about a dozen, out of which
gradually we were able to frame a cross, by picking out the
brightest and not seeing the others. For a while this seemed
to us to be the famous constellation. But it appeared too
large, the stars were too mixed and there were too many
stars around it that did not form the cross, to satisfy us, and
we waited on until it had begun to fade away to the west.

Then there came another c(jiistellation, composed mostly
of great patches of nebute brighter than the milky way, and
looking like a great procession of lamps before some royal
pageant. And then there began to rise from the sea three

LANDS.

SO little made

arence for the
ce in our own
3re asleep, and
rselves on this
blessed Friday
ibout reaching
ir north to see
st be near the
18 deck, in the
ian plains, and
:ar that we had
ated over a low
;her west. We
) southern hori-
)pear.

m, out of which
picking out the
nile this seemed
it appeared too
were too many
) satisfy us, and
^ to the west,
omposed mostly
milky way, and
Eore some royal
n the sea three

SSS^S^K^

ISMAILIA TO IIOMBAV

131

stars of ruby tint, that formed the head of a cross, much
smaller than the first we had seen, and, as it rose and rose,
the fourth star at length came up below, and lo ! the cross
was complete !

There could bo no doubt about this ; it was the tnie
Cross— the other but a counterfeit, that had gone before. It
had far fewer stars in it. Indeed, all but these four were
smaller stars ; these were of the first magnitude. The figure
was almost perfect. The right hand horizontal bar was a
little higher and shorter than the left, but, with this excep-
tion, it was a real cross ; and, as it rose higher and higher, it
stood out with bold outline and brilliant glory against the
sky.

It was but a fancy, a correspondence, but it spoke to us
of much. The first cross lepresented the false religions that
nave gone before and perplexed and deceived mankind. The
nebulae that preceded the true Cross were fine illustrations
of the light of proi)hecy and promise that ushered in the
great redemption. And the ruby stars (as the astronomers
tell us they appear in the telescope) that formed that simple
cross proclaimed the precious blood by which we have been
redeemed, and the plan of salvation through the sacrifice of
Jesus, that bears its own evidence and vindication to all who
are willing to look at it fairly.

One thing more we noticed. When it first arose, the
cross was slanting, as if ready to fall ; but, as it moved on, it
grew erect and passed out of view with its glorious head lifted
up to heaven, telling surely of the glorious gospel which be-

i'':

132 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSLOXARY LANDS.

gan ill weakness, but is marching on to its full meridian
glory, when " the head that once was crowned with thorns"
shall wear the glory of all lands and ages.

And yet once more. Looking a second time at this cluster
of stars, wcuioticed that by putting together the smaller stars,
they formed a second cross that seemed to lie back of the
other, and in a horizontal position. How it spoke to us of
the cross Avhich Christ has laid down at our feet for us to
take up and carry ! He had His cross, we have ours, too ;
and the very badge of discipleship is to be willing to carry it
gladly for His dear love.

And so we turned away from the glorious sky, willing to
be numbered among the star-gazers, too, if through these
jewelled windows we may but see a little more of the beauty
of our wondrous King, in His crimson Cross and His coming

Glory.

It was two o'clock. A blessed company were just retir-
ing from their hallowed meeting in the Tabernacle, at C P.
M. ; their day was ending, -and ours ? And we lay down and
slept for six blessed hours within the arms of His love, and
prayers of His people, and the very curtains of His holy hab-
itation. And when the morning dawned our vision of the
night before had become a little song, which we give to our
readers on another page.

We have some comic things, too, and the Lord lets
us have an innocent laugh, many a time. While we were
lying at anchor for half-an-hour in Suez to receive the mails-
and some other things, a lot of Arabs came on board with

:.ir-nfniin "'

tXDS.

ull meridian
with thorns"

it this cluster
inialler stars,
hack of the
oke to us of
.^et for us to
ve ours, too ;
iig to carry it

ky, willing to
hrough these
of the l)eauty
(I His crmiing

■re just retir-
•nacle, at C P.
lay down and
His love, and
His holy hah-
vision of tlie
e give to our

[;he Lord lets
^hile we were
;eive the maili*
on hoard with

JSA/.I//./.1 JO nOMJl.lY.

133

their various wares. Among them was a conjuror, who
seemed to he in the special employment of the devil. Ho had
a little rahbit, some tin cups, eggs, etc., and at once seated
himself on the deck in the centre cf a group of passengers
near us, and began his tricks. He proceeded to bleat for

TXM*!^,

a time like a goat, and then uttering a sort of invocation
to the devil, " Come on, debble, come on, debble," and then
his arch-master having come to his aid, he began to do the
most extraordinary things. The people laughed and won-
dered, and, as long as their money continued to flow, he went
on. We stayed long enough to see that he was in the devil's

134

/..■ia'(7/:a' o/t/.ooa's ox A/issfox.iA'V f.ixns.

business, and then we tui lu'd awjiy as iar as we could, but
could n()tosca[)o noticing the sequel.

Suddenly the ship began to move, and the Arab started
to get off, but he was too late. His dhow or hoat was off a
buiidred yards, and all the tenders had move<l away; then a
most amusing and i)aintul scene began. The sweat rolled
down his face, he cried and lamented, run to the stern,
screamed to the dhow to come on and keep up, rushed franti-
cally aiound the deck, tried to get i\m big ship to stop, but
the captain did not even see him. Alas, the '• debble " could
not do nmch for him now ! His mastei' seemed all at once to
have failed him. We could not help thinking of the magi-
cians of Egypt and the narrow limits of their power. Fort-
unately for him, the ship had to turn round after a little in
the roadstead, and during this time, only a minute or two,
his boat came up, he seized a rope and swung himself over
the side of the great ship, the boat caught him below as he
swung in mid air, and he dropped on board, panting and
sweating, while a great cheer went up from his friends, and
he seemed hardly to know whether he was dead or alive.
He, certainly, was the most frightened creature we ever saw,
and we could not help thinking of the difference between the
two Masters.

We have been passing through the lands of the Hegira and
the Exodus of Israel. Somewhere on the Une of this canal is
the spot where Moses stretched his rod across the deep, arid
Pharaoh's hosts were buried in the Red Sea. Somewhere on
these shores the Pillar of Jehovah's Presence lighted up the

.I.\7>S.

ve could, but

Arab started

out was off a

iway; then a

sweat rolled

the stern,
ushed franti-
) to stop, but
ebblo" could
all at once to
of the niagi-
povver. Fort-
'ter a little in
inute or two,
himself over

1 below as he
panting and

3 friends, and
lead or alive,
we ever saw,
9 between the

he Hegira and
f this canal is
the deep, aiid
omev.here on
lighted up the

ISM A I LI A TO HUM HAY.

135

darkness of the night, as this sunset glow now shines along
the West. Soniewliere over yonder ar«! Marah and F.lini,
Rephidini and Sinai. Perhaps no one yet knows. Unigsdi
Bey suys, the site of the crossing is away down at Kantara on
the other side of Isniailia. Hut this can hardly 1m?. It is too
far from Goshen and Kameses, which have been identified
near Tel-el-Kebir. The old tradition says -Sue/. Hut this
seems too far on this side of Kameses. A good many have
located it at Slialouf, a few miles abovc^ Suez, and they believe
that the Red Sea then reached nnich larther north, and took
in the present Bitter Lakes and Lake Timsah on which Is-
mailia stands. This is, perhaps, most probable.

We saw, a short distance to the East, the probable site of
EUm, still known as the Wells of Moses, where we could see
the palms growing around a few houses on the oasis. Away
beyond stretch the desert sands where they wandered, and in
the distance, rise the peaks of Horeb and Sinai. Many a
weary journey has been made to trace their footsteps. We
have little interest in the mere processes of anticpiarian re-
search; we are content to accept the b' A, results, and get as
quickly as possible to the practical lessons of their history.
For us they trod these wastes and lived and died, and failed
to enter in, that we might escape their failures and inherit
their promises. " Let us, therefore, fear lest, a promise being
left us of entering into His rest, any of us should seem to
come short of it."

The Red Sea looks like a narrow strip on . -ur maps, and
one would almost expect to see from shoi-e to shore. But

•, <

'^^^^:^^^^^^^i^x\

136 LARGER nr'T/.OOkS OX M/SSmX.I RY LANDS.

wlien yoi! got upon it you tiiid a great sea moiv than a thou-
sand miles long, and over two luindn'd bioad, down which
it takes a swift steamer between three and four days to sail.
Its waters have been like a summer pool. In the wak(> of
oui- ship, flash the i)hosphorescent creatures that might be
called t he glowworms of t]\o deep. An army of scores of im-
mense sluu ks swam past us to-day. The Southern terminus
is the strait of Bab-el- Mandeb, and the town of Aden, a Brit-
ish possession, commands the entrance to the canal, and is an
Arab town of less than •?(»,()<)(» peopl(>. Across rises the high
coast of the Somali Country, where a few brave Swedish mis-
sionaries ar(^ laboring.

Arabia is yet an unevangelizedland, only one or two work
lug chiefly in British territory. Some efforts are about to be
made to enter it. In His Name we will claim it for Christ iu
His own mighty way. How little is all that we can do against
this great host ! But He is All-sufficient, and, in tliose days,
as wo realize moi-e than ever the immensity and difficulty of
the field, wo are falling back on Him, and giving ourselves
more than ever to prayer, not only for a blessing on our own
work, but, infinitely beyond it all, for His own infinite, direct
and almighty working.

A foolish dance is going on upon deck this evening, and,
driven from our usual walk, we have just spent a very pleas-
ant hour with the chief cook on the lower deck, and he has
told us the story of his wonderful conversion, six years ago,
on this ship, through one of the China Inland Missionaries.
He is one of the stalwart sort of Christians, and stands alone

than a thou-
lowii which

(lays to Hail.

the wake of
at might be
scoroH of irn-
Mii terminus
\.{Vm, a Brit-
al, and is an
isos tlu) high
>W(>(lish iriis-

3r two v\'i )i'k
3 about to be
for Christ in
n do against
1 those days,
difficulty of
ng ourselves
; on our own
itinite, direct

vening, and,
a very pleas-
and he has
X years ago,
Missionaries,
stands alone

ISM A I LI A TO BOM HAY.

on this ship against all the mixtures and compromises that
so dishonor Dirist, and confound Christianit} with more
worldliness. It i.s refreshing to find once in a while such hid-
den ones in all sorts of unexpected (piarters.

But wo have just passed the lights of Perimand the Strait
of Bah-el Mundob, and must get ready to tranship for Uom-
bay.

ADEN.

The approach to Aden is wild and grand. It stands
upon a rocky peninsula, whose jagged cliffs must lise at
least 2,000 feet above the sea. It is situated about eighty
miles east of the Strait of Bab-el-Mandeh, and commands the
entrance of the Red Sea. It is an English colony, strongly
fortified, and of immense strategic importance, giving Eng-
land the command of this mighty gateway to the East. The
town lies back from the harbor a few miles, and has a popu-
lation of about L'(t,000.

i'li»*^fe«isWi^

; <j- 5*w-.**^^^

'•k.^-^ %iif\

ii -iv'-to^-:

lii

138 LARGER OVrLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

We find some interesting traces of the ancient greatness
of this old Arabian town. It is mentioned, in Ezekiel xxvii :
23, as one of the cities with which Tyre carried on an impor-
tant commercial traffic. Tradition places the home of the
Queen of Sheba at Saba, just north of it. In the time of Cou-
stantine it was an important church centre. In the middle
ages it was a great city , and a prize for contending armies.
It has been held successively by the Turks, Arabs, Portu-
guese, French and English. It is now a part of the Bombay
Presidency, and one of the most important military posts of
the British empire, and known as "the Gibraltar of the

East."

There are a few missionaries from England laboring
here, the only workers that have yet been really planted in
Arabia. So far they are chiefly employed within the British
territory, but it is, at least, an important starting point, and
we join hands Avith them in faith and prayer, -^nd put the
sole of our foot down on Arabia and claim it also for Him, in
His own great and mighty way, even in the face of appar-
ently insuperable difficulties.

Arabia is the land of Ishmael and Hagar, of Moses and
the Law, of the wanderings of Israel, and the sojourn of Ehjah
and Paul. These people are the seed of Abraham, and, at
least, the cousins of Israel ; and they, too, have an inherit-
ance of promise. They are a most attractive people, simple,
affectionate, intelligent and capable. Our heart bleeds to see
them under the blight of Mohammedanism.

A great work has begun for them m connection with the

mmtm

' LANDS.

Qcient greatness
1 Ezekiel xxvii :
ed on an impor-
he home of the
the time of Cou-
In the middle
tending armies.
, Arabs, Portu-
t of the Bombay
nihtary posts of
jribraltar of the

ngland laboring
:-eally planted in
ithin the British
rting point, and
rer, '^nd put the
also for Him, in
le face of appar-

ar, of Moses and
sojourn of Elijah
Lbrahani, and, at
have an inherit-
e people, simple,
eart bleeds to see

mecfcion with the

ISM AI LI A TO nOMBAY.

139

American Mission in Syria, in the publication of the Bible
and other books in their beautiful language ; and the Bible
Societies are distributing these leaves of the Tree of Life
among them with a fair measure of success. Work has to
be cai-ried on among them with great wisdom. Anywhere,
under the Turkish government, any very public agitation is
sure to lead to the suppression of the work. The work car-
ried on by the North African Mission, from Damascus among
the Bedouins east of the Jordan, has been stopped, and Mr.
Van Tassel has returned home. The best work we can do
for Arabia is to pray that God Himself will somehow send
the pioneers whom He alone can prepare to go foi th with the
Gospel to its neglected millions, if it be nothing more than to
proclaim the witness before the coming of the Lord.

But we got a glimpse of another race during the four or
five hours we stayed in Aden,— the African tribes on the op-
posite shore. We had no sooner anchored than our ship was
surrounded with scores of Somali lads, entirely nude, except
a towel around their loins. Tliey floated around like sea-fowl,
climbed on deck, and tried in various ways to get "back-
shish" or sell tl^iir wares. They were as black and shining
as polished ebony, with curly African hair. Their figures were
finely developed, and they were really handsome, and veiy
smart and intelligent. They were perfectly at home in the
water. Many of them had their own canoes, just big enough
for one, and hewn out of a log The sea washed in, but they
sat in the bottom paddling, and just bailed it out with their
hands. You could not drown them. They were more than

i:i

140

LARGER OUTLOOKS OX MISSIONARY LANDS.

half the time in the water, swimming abcut like fishes — able
to stand erect in the sea, and laugh and talk, and dart about
among the tug-boats and steamers without the slightest fear
of being run over. Their greatest delight was to have a pas-
senger throw them a ])onny or sixpence. They would leap
from their boats and catch it long before it got to the bottom,
and invariably bring it up in their mouths. Poor little fel-
lows, what beautiful Christians they would make !

At length we are loaded with mails and freight for Bom-
bay, the signal gun is fired and we are off. As we clear the
harbor, we look south, and the "Oceana," the ship we have
just left, is leaving for Colombo and Sydney, on her long
voyage of four weeks more These great Australian ships
only make three trips a year. Compared with one of these
great voyages, an Atlantic trij) is like crossing a ferry.

The sail over the Arabian Sea from Aden to Bombay was
very delightful. The sea was as calm as glass, wuth the ex-
ception of the last few hours, and pleasant breezes kept the
air delightfully cool. On the glassy waters floated myriads
of beautiful sea anemones, a sort of jelly fish spreading out
just like a great flower, with petals of lilac and heart of crim-
son and purple. Flying fish would often dart across the
waves, flutter a minute or so in the air, flying, i)erhaps, a
Imudred feet, and then drop into the water. At a distance
they looked like little birds, but close at hand they were seen
to be little fish about a foot long, with wings just like a black
bird.

This sea is not always so gentle. In the monsoon season,
from June to September, it is, perhaps, the roughest sailing

i^^^«

•iNDS.

fishes — able
d dart about
lightest fear
) have a pas-
T would leap
• the bottom,
;)or little fel-

jht for Bom-
we clear the
ship we have
on her long
;ralian ships
one of these
ferry.

Bombay was
Avith the ex-
izes kept the
ited myriads
preading out
eart of crim-
t across the
?, perhaps, a
\i a distance
ey were seen
> like a black

isoon season,
^hest sailing

ISM AIL 1. 1 TO nOMIiAY.

141

in the world, and the sailors and officers told us how in the
last monsoon, the chief officer of the " Assam," one of the
two steamers that sail between Aden and Bombay, was swept
off the deck by a great wave, and never seen again. This,
however, is the calm season and is unusually calm.

All our stewards are Hindus, and the Post Office clerks
also. Most of them speak English perfectly, and, but for
their brown faces, you would take theni for Enghshmen.
The crew are all Hindus, and it is a sight not to be forgotten
to witness one of their meals. Last night we watched them
at supper. A great tin pan of rice, about a yard in diameter,
and holding at least five gallons of boiled rice, was brought
by one of them to the forecastle deck, and then nine or ten of
them squatted round it, k:;ving first all carefully washed their

hands.

Then they began to squeeze the rice to make it s-^ft and
sticky, any or all of them sticking in their hands at \, •.. re,
until they had worked it up to the proper consistency. Then
a little basin or pot was brought, containing some curry
sauce, and this was poured over the rice, and again their
hands were plunged in and the rice and curry mixed up until
it had become properly colored and flavored. The process of
eating then began, and each one, with his hands, plunged
into the great dish until the dish was empty. Then he would
look round at some other httle company, and, if there was
another dish not yet finished, he might join that party. They
were all squatted around these dishes, and looked not unlike
a little pen of animals getting their rations in a trough. But
they are gentle, inoffensive, quiet people, good servants, and

~m~

T- ', :<'^;'^i^^^^^^^^^^mifm^^fmmmmm^mm^^$^^mmt^M4-^& s-

142 LARCRR OUTLOOk'S 0\' MISSIONARY J.ANDS.

like simple, happy children. They are rather timid, and
bear in thoir faces and manners the marks of a subject race.
We reached Bombay about ten o'clock on Saturday even-
ing, February 25. The harbor is large and fine, and is guarded
by bold, high shores. We had just got our baggage on the
steam launch of the P. cSc O. Company, and were arranging
to go to a hotel, when our good brother Fuller arrived, with
a cordial welcome, and took us to a delightful Christian
household, where we remained during our stay in Bombay,
and met some lovely Christian friends. We remained in
Bombay until Tuesday morning, and then left by train to
visit our dear missionaries in Berar. We shall speak of them
and our missionary work later.

Our first act on stepping upon the shores of India was to
get alone on the landing, and, while our friends were having
our baggage attended to and securing a carriage, we just
looked up into the skies and heavens, beyond the glorious
stars, and claimed this place, on which the sole of our feet at
length rested, for Christ and His gospel.

And we believe that He gave us more than our eyes shall
<^ver see at this time, for the evangelization of this wondrous
land and mighty people,— the most open and interesting mis-
sion field in the world, and the great inheritance and trust,
not only of the British nation, but also of all the English-
speaking people of the world.

One of our first impressions of India was the noises of the
night. The air was literally wild with the cries of innumer-
able birds, especially crows, which were flying about all the
night, lighting upon our window sills and impudently put-

ther timid, and
■ a subject race.

I Saturday even-

e, aud m guarded

baggage on the

were arranging

er arrived, with
;htful Christian
5tay in Bombay,
Ve remained in
left by train to

II speak of them

of India was to
ds were having
rriage, we just
ud the glorious
le of our feet at

II our eyes shall
this wondrous
nteresting mis-
mce and trust,
.11 the Enghsh-

he noises of the
3s of innumer-
; about all the
apudently put-

ISM A 1 1. 1 A TO nOMBAY.

143

ting their noses and their noises into everything. As the
Hindu does not believe in killing anything lest he might haply
kill his grandfather in some new form of transmigration, it is
the paradise of birds, beasts and insects.

Our next decided impression was made by the American

BOMBAY.

mosquito who was here in force. Fortunately, if they do
not kill him they fence him off, and so we got under our bar
as speedily as possible, and stayed there till daylight cleared the
air. Everybody in India keeps doors and windows open, and
the word draught is unknown in this land. We found the
nights cool and pleasant, and the days hot, but not nearly so
hot as we expected at this season.

'^ffvf^

144

LARChR OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

Perhaps our next impression was the dress or rather un-
dress of the people. The men und women of the lower cla^-ses
dress ahout alike. The limhs are scarcely covered, one gar-
ment being fastened around the loins, and anothrr usually-
over the shoulders. 'J'he turban is always to bo seen on th-

elaborate. The

men, and is very
women gracefully
a corner of the loose
the shoulders. These
carry i tig great l)ur-
their heads. i t
almost to tears to
among rough meii
borers on the public-
the mortar for the
carriers. As we saw
bodies trembling
hods and babkets of
we asked what wa-
aud they told us : "In
cents a day — in the
And for this these
day in the hot sun,

HINDU WOMAN.

throw over the head
robe, that falls ovei-
won)eu can be seen
dens constantly on
touched our heart
see them engaged
as the lowest la-
buildiugs, carrying
masons like on r hod
their frail, half- dad
under these gieat
brick and mortar,
ges they received,
Bombay about eight
country much less."
women toiled all
and went home to

feed themselves and their children on a little lice and
curry, and often this was a luxury they could not afford.
We thanked God for what the Gospel had done for our
Christian womea, and we longed that our redeemed sisters
might be awakened to do more for the toiling and de-

ANDS.

)r rather un-
lower cla; >-(?s
red, one g \r-
>thf !• usufi'iy

seen on th •
rate. Th.>
)ver the head
lat fills ov.?i-
L can be seen
Dnstanily on
i our heart
urn engaged
i lowest la-
gs, cariying
.like our hod
ail, hah-; lad
these gieat
ind mortar,
ey received,
y ahout eight
,^ much less."
toiled all
mt home to
le rice and

not afford,
lone for our
emed sisters
ing and de-

CD
O

>
<

■"WM

ISM. 1 1 I.I.I TO iio.un.iv.

145

graded wonu'ii of India. Many of tlu'se toiling woni»ni woif
young girls of liftwn to twenty, and many of th.-m nioth.-is
with children. Think of then), girls and mothers of America !

The first sunrise we saw in India was upon (Jod's h(dy
day. We found many friends waiting to welcome us to the
vineyard, and we were only too glad to respond. We liad the
privilege of preaching throe times on that day : at 11 A. M.,
and and 8 P. M. The first two services were in the Ameri-
can Methodist Episcopal Churcli, where we found a large and
earnest English congregation, consisting largely of Europeans
in India, and English-speaking natives. The later services
were held at the Sailor's Rest, where we found a nice com-
pany of Scotch and Enghsh sailors, and we heheve that sev-
eral precious souls were saved.

The Superintendent of the Mission is our dear hrothei-,
Mr. Madden, lately of New York, who, with his dear wife
used often to attend our Tabernacle services in >'ew York,
and called upon us there less than three years ago, to consult
about entering upon foreign n)issionary work. We were
glad to hear from many quarters that this work is most suc-
cessful, and he is very highly esteemed among our Christian
workers here, and beloved by the sailors. The Pastor of the
M. E. Church, where we also preached, is a successful Amer-
ican Pastor who has recently come to India from a western
city, so that we feel a good deal at home in such congenial
surroundings. The spirit of many of the workers was most
earnest, simple, catholic and aggressive. This is one of the
self-supporting churches founded by Bishop Taylor many

?B«Krt«SJ*s^SSS^SS?R?MSS3K^-!

146 LARGER OLTLOORS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

years ago, and is, indeed, n mcmument to Iub zeal and wis-
dom. It is a blessod cHUtie ol ii 'ly Christinn life and wurk.
On Tlonday mui viwMr v, - It -d tlie pleuHuro of breakfasting
witli M •. Dyer, jti iprietor of the BomUwj (fuanlinn, and
meeting other diar friends there. He has been most kind to all
our outgoing missionaries, and has usually given them a pub-

1 ic wel-

MAP OF SOUTHERN ASIA.

come
at his
home.
We
did not
f o r g e t
t o call
at the
homeof
our«lea"
f rit nd
now in
New
York,

I^Iiss Helen Richardson, rind had the pleasure ol sc^eing two
of her assistants and some of her work. One of them is
Miss Carter, of Brooklyn. Miss Eid . rdson is laboring for the
unfortunate girls of ludia, especi .11^ those who have been m-
veigled into sin after coming from other lands, by bad men. Her
work is a much-needcr. vne, and we :n-e sure h.r return wiU
be the occasion for renewing it with fresh courage and power.

LANDS.

•» zeal and wis-
I life and work,
of breakfasting
(fuanlian, and
most kind to all
en them a pub-
1 ic wel-
c o m e
a t his

ISMA/L/A ro nOMIlAY.

147

3 ot seeing two
One of them is
? laboring for the
tio have been in-
by bad men. Her
3 her return will
irageand power.

In the evening we were invited to take part in the first
public meeting of the Woman's Christian Temperance Union,
in Bombay, and it was a good and spirited meeting, and the
work is beginning with a lot of live and loving women be-
hind it.

Most of
Monday was
spent, very
busily, in
Bombay, vis
iting business
offices. lo< ik-
ing for our
mail, finding
about sa. ing
«)f steamers,
aul seeing a
httle of this
great an
wond"^fui
city a nd.
We ^ 'iall not

at this time, a, aii to describe it further than to say that
Bombiiv is the commercial metropoHs of India, and the
setond city in the British Empire. It is worthy of its high
position, at least so far as appearance is concerned. It re-
min<U one of what ancient Epn sus must have been. ae
magnificent capital of the Orieni it is, indeed, a superb

STREET IN BOMBAY.

HMI^M

148 LARCER or r LOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS,

and 8i)lendi(l city with a iioimlation ftf wavXy a million, and a
luxuriance of architeituie and vegetation worthy of the
glorious East. A short visit to the magnificent market gave
one an idea, that nothing ^'Ise could, of the wealth of natural
resources which surrouml^ it. All the fruits of the northern
zones were there, and nuiltitudes of varieties of tiopical
flowers, plants, fruits, and vegetables which we cannot even
take time to name.

India is, iideed, a great and wondrous world. And her
two hundred and eighty million souls are our great inheri-
tance, and sacred trust. God is laying her intensely on our
hearts, and we roll the burden on thousands of other hearts
to whom God is waiting to give the greatest privilege and
honor of the Ages, viz. , the -riving to her yet neglected mil-
lions of the glorious invitation, perhaps for the last time, to
the Marriage of the I.amb.

UNDER THE SOUTHERN CROSS.

Stars of the Southern heaveUB,

I greet you in His name,
Who hung your torches yonder

And lit your glowing flame.

Oft in the northern midnight

I've seen Orion shine,
The brightest constellation

Of yonder arch divine.

The silvery light of Slrius,

The wond'rous Pleiades,
The never-changing Pole star,—

Oft have I gazed on these ;

"mmm

riXDS,

iiillion, at\(\ a
>rthy of the
imuket gave
th of natural
the northern
8 of tropical
cannot even

Id. And her
great inheri-
snsely on our
other hearts
privilege and
leglected niil-
[3 last time, to

iSMAiLiA TO r.o.\rnAy.

But I have Iuok«<I to Mt<e thee,
Pair Hoiithern (V«)hs, arlne ;

Th« niystlo Hijfn of Jemis
Engraven on the iikiea.

Sliine on, thou wond'rou'i Hifjnal,
Bright lianip from ht'avtMi above,

Tell out o'pr «'arth and oncan
The niymcry of HIh love.

O'er Australaalan iMlands,
Ami Afrln'H buininff saiiilM,

O'er India's teeniinf^ nilllioiiH,
And all the Christlesta landn ; —

Tell how the Lord of Heaven

Gave up His Son to die,
Till men Hhall cat(di the nieaninf;

Of Ciirist and 0*1 vary.

The Church liaH lon>f nejflected
'J'o make the uiehHa^e known ;

But God haw huiij? thy Signal,
To tlaHk It from the Throne.

They say its stars are tinted
Like Oalvary'H criuiHou hue ;

The very heavens confesH Him
Who died for me and you.

The Southern Cross is hang^in^

Low in the Eastern sky ;
I almost long to grasp it

And lift it up on high.

But there's a cross, () Master,
That e'en our Imnds can bear, —

We can lift up Thy gosiiel
And tell it everywhere.

149

I50

LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

Yon glorious constellation

Ts slowly travelling on,
And lo ! erect it standeth,

Long ere the night is gone.

Yes, and the Cross of Jesus

Is rising evermore ;
And soon its light and glory

Will shine from shore to shore.

Amid yon starry cluster

Two Crosses I can see :
One is the Cross of Jesus,

And one— is left for me.

One stands erect to Heaven ;

'Tis His, who suffered there,
And one is prostrate lying

For us to take and bear.

I lift Thy Cross, O Jesus,

O'er every heath* n land ;
And mine I take and carry

At Thy divine command.

OUR WORK IN BERAR.

■ *^

WE spent a delightful week with our missionaries
in Berar, and had a season of much mutual
blessing.

The Province of Berar lies directly north of the Nizam's
Dominions and the large District of Hyderabad. It begins
about three hundred miles east of Bombay and extends about
one hundred and seventy miles from east to west and one
hundred and fifty from north to south. It contains a popu-
lation of nearly three millions of people.

It lies in a vast plain, and is bounded on the north by a
long range of hills called the Sappuro Hills. It is one of the
richest agricultural districts of India, and is especially noted
as a cotton producing district. There are large cotton mar-
kets all along the railway, and many cotton gins and presses
with some cotton factories. During the American war a
great impetus was given to this trade. The soil and climate
seem especially adapted to it.

It has very dense population, averaging in some districts
two hundred and fifty to the square mile. Its principal cities

are Amraoti, Akola, Ellichpur, and Bassim, but there are a

151

r#i^s«aM^»,i^>^jSs*ss*ss?*!ftsa.itfii3^^saBWS!;r;

1^2 LARGER OI'/LOOKS OX MISS/OXAR) I.AXDS.

great many towns of from five to ten thousand inhabitants,
aiTd, at least, four thousand smaller towns and villages.

It is not a district much visited by strangers and travel-
lers, for it has no romantic scenery nor striking histoiic asso-
ciations. And it has been strangely neglected y\ the occupa-
tion of India by missionaries. For fifteen or t.venty years a
few pioneers have been i)reparing the way : Mr. Ward at
Ellichi)ur ; Miss Sisson, Miss Drake and Miss Wlieeler at
Bassim ; and later, under her new name, Mrs. Moore with her
good husband, Brother Moore, and our own dear Mr. and
Mrs. Fuller at Ellichpm-, Akote and Akola. Much faithful
work Avas done, much suft'ering endured, and nauch prayer
stored up in heaven by these lone laborers, and at last the
harvest has begun to appear.

A few years ago Miss Bates and Miss Dawlly, from our
own work, joined them at Akola, and, about the same time,
Mr. Eogers from America began to found the Industrial
School for the training of native boys in mechanical and
skilled work. Miss Ca&e and Miss Walker followed about a
year and a half ago. Gradually these links drew the older
workers into closer contact with the Alliance, and the result
was the consunmia^ion of a union which has led to the send-
ing out of the four parties that have so rapidly followed each
other during the ])ast six months, making an aggregate of
forty-thr6e Alliance missioiiaries now on the field.

To visit these beloved workers was one of the chief ob-
jects of our journey to India. As soon, therefoi-e, as we could
get off from Bombay, we were on our way to Berar, by the

4XDS.

inhal)itants,
illages.
\ and travel-
tiistoiic asso-
I the occupa-
enty years a
Ii-. Ward at
Wheeler at
ore with her
ear Mr. and
^ucli faithful
iiuch ])rayer
[ at last the

ily, from our
i same time,
le Industrial
c'hanical and
wed about a
ew the older
id the result
to the send-
oUowed each
aggregate of
d.

;he chief ob-
;, as we could
Berar, by the

OL'R irOK'K IX BERAR.

153

great railway which leads through the Central Provinces from
Bombay to Calcutta. We met the first section of our mis-
sionary party at the mountain village of Igatpuri, sometime
before we got to Berar. Here, at the summit of the western
Ghauts— the literal "Gates" to the great central plain of

mmsm?^m:^^~^im^:^:

THE QHAUT RAILWAY.

India, —we found eight of our dear friends very pleasantly set-
tled, and faithfully studying the hnguage ard getting ready
for work.

We need not say it was a joyful meeting, and we found
them all exceedingly well and happy, and looking better than

warn

^mi

,i?i. :n^

LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

ever. They had aheady made very fair progress with the
language, and were carrying on a Uttle woi'k in the native
village close by. One had given hei- first little message to the
natives in Marathi the previous Sabbath, and they were all
much encouraged.

There are many Europeans and English-speaking natives
at Igatpuri, which is a great railway centre, and we had the
great pleasure of preaching in the evening to an excellent
congregation in the Methodist Chapel, and pressing upon them
the claims the heathen have upon the native Chiistians of
India, When we got home we were glad to find a line young
fellow who had been at the service, and was under deep con-
viction of sin and wished to talk with us. He was a native
and an employe of the railway. We had a blessed season of
prayei', and thanked God for fruit from our first missionary
meeting in India. He went away professing to give himself
fully to the Lord, and promising to attend the meetings at the
Mission Home.

Igatpuri is only a temporary residence for our workers
while studying. It is already occupied by other missionaries,
but was an excellent place to receive, and, for a time, settle
part of our large company, till they could be permanently lo-
cated ; and it is a cool and delightful summer home, quite
high, and, except in the rainy season, more pleasant than
Berar. In the monsoons, ho\ ever, from June to September,
the rainfall on all the mountains is enormous, reaching some-
times several hundred inches in a single season.

Taking both househo! '- along with us, to attend a Con-

vns.

58 with the

the native

jsage to the

ley were all

:ing natives
we had the
,n excellent
; upon them
hiistians of

tine young
1" deep con-
as a native
i season of

missionary
ive himself
tings at the

lur workers
lissionaries,
time, settle
lanentiy lo-
liome, quite
;asant than
September,
Aing some-
end a Con-

's -Kfi

?'".Tassss3?«s

S^?ISWia'ffia3^'^«TSS3SS?}WpS3^-

GROUP OF MISSIONARIES AT IQATPURI.
A "Kndak" photograph taken by Mr. Simpson.

.^'

OUR WORK i.\\nr:R.iR.

155

vention of all our workers, which had heen called for Thurs-
day and Friday, March 2 and :;, we found most of the others
there n our arrival the next afternoon, and we liad a very
joyful welcome, and felt very much as if we had got home
again to the old Tahernacle meetings.

We had feared that the large parties of new mission-
aries, who had come out in succession since last September,
would greatly strain the accommodations our friends were
able to count upon, and we hastened our journey in order to
assist in getting our friends settled. But we found to our
surprise that everything was already arranged in the most
quiet and satisfactory manner, and every one was happy and
contented. The Lord has very wonderfully aided our dear
friends in this whole matter, and given His own wisdom and
grace to the Snperintendent and all the missionaries in a very
special manner, so that we found them not only thankful for
all the people that had come, but glad to welcome still more,
as soon as the way was clear to send them.

We were met it the Akola depot by all the missionaries
and most of the boys x t ' .le Mission. We found the approach
to the city very imposing, the Enj, .ish quarters being hand-
somely laid out with broad avenues and lines of handsome
shade trees. It is a city of about tweuty-fr-'e thousand in-
habitants, and consists of two tow„js, one European and the
other native. It ic the capit-d of one o "' the five districts of
Berar, and the residence of a number of English offit^ials.
There is an English church aiad chaplaincy, and there are a
number of handsome bungalows on the main avenue, where

-smmmim

156 LARGER orr/.ooKs ox i\r/ss/oxARy lands.

HINDU WOMEN.

they live. The Mission bungalow is in the English quarter,
and is a substantial building with a fine approach.

There is also on the ground another excellent house,

N/)S.

:w:>

sh quarter,
ent house,

•0

I
>
z
>
o
m

IIR Mt^KK IX lll.RAK.

157

whit;h Miss I tuvs 11 .'rected fur thtMnpluinage work m (here.
The two togethtM ;iccommodate about seventeen persons.
ThiMi there are the girls' and the boys' Home on the same
site, w'h<ro thtie an boitt fourteen girls and seventeen boys.
Mr. and Mrs. Fuller live just at the edge of the native
town, in a neat, simple bungalow, about half .1 mile from the
mission promises. The Lord has been K»aciou 'v providing
till., vahiuble property during the waiting y " '^^^ '"om-

mencement of this great work, and we m ilow up

with a faith and com-age worthy of what 1 'iie.

Wo found Tuostof the party quite well s. Fuller had

just a few weeks previously risen from h»>r i, and another
nttle missionary had joined the family circle. It was, indeed,
wonderful 1 ^ Ood had carried her through the double strain,
and we nev her so bright, victorious and happy. It is

enough to say Uiat Brother Fuller was '^as aforetime ■,"' and
so we expect ever to find him till the Master comes. Two of
the dear ones were unwell, but improving.

On the following morning we gathered together at eight
o'clock for the first Convention of the Christian Alliance in
India. It was a season forever to be remembered by us all.
As some of us looked back ten years in America to the begin-
ning of the work there, and others to the lonely days of wait-
ing in India, and saw this company of more than fifty work-
ers gathered, in one spirit, in this field, there were feelings
too deep and full for utterance. There were a few others
present with us, besides our own missionaries, but all were of
one heart to win Berar for Jesus.

Our Bethshan friends from London have taken the city
of EUichpur for a centre, and several of them were present.

158 LARGER orrrooRs ox nr/ssroxARV /..txns.

Mr. Moore, from Hassim, rpprosenting an independent work
(•(•nnected with Dr. Cullis, was present with Pliihp, hisevau-
gehst. The P'ree Metliodists luive also a mission at Yeotmal,
in the south-west of the province, and their two missionaries
were present. There is only one other mission in the prov-
ince, and that is the Scotch Mission at Amraoti, hut they
have no European missionaries there, and were not rt^pre-
sented in the conference. We might truly say that all the
foreign Avorkers in Berar were represented. Our dear sister,
Miss Hattie Bruce, from the American Marathi Mission, was
also present.

It was a season of great spiritual blessing. It is enough
to say that the mornings were spent in the study of the
Scriptures and i)rayer, the afternoons in looking at the work
and the field, and hearing reports from the workers, and the
evenings in services of a moie general character, fitted to in-
terest tlu' natives, many of whom attended.

All the missionaries were heard from, and all had grown
very much since we last saw them. The one sentence, "I
am so glad I am in India, and I have not had a.i unhappy or
lonely day since I lauded," came to be expected as the intro-
duction to almost every testimony. Of course, very much in
the way of work or results could not be expected in the short
time they had been here, but it was wonderful how much
they had accomplished. All had learned something of the
language. Almost all had been at work, selling books in the
bazaars, singing Marathi hymns, which most of them had
already learned, and speaking in broken sentences or reading

RM.. &m

ANDS.

eiulcnt work

lip, *iis ovan-

at Yeotmal,

missionaries

in the [)rov-

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e not repre-

that all the

f dear sister,

Mission, was

It is enough
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at the work
ers, and the
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11 had grown
entence, "I

unhappy or
IS the intro-
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in the short
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OL'Ji! irOA'A' LV BERAR.

159

simple texts in the language. Some of them had most inter-
esting reports to make of how God used their hroken efforts,
and how some precious souls had already been won. Of
course these results have to be proved, but one could not fail
to see how mightily God had indeed, already been working
and using the weak and foolish things to confound the wise
and mighty. There are several remarkable testimonies of
God's healing, especially among the native children, some of
them very clear and striking.

One of the greatest privileges we had was the opportu-
nity of speaking to the educated natives. We received a very
courteous invitation from a number of influential Hindus, in-
cluding lawyers, physicians and public officials, all able to
underst.*. ' English, requesting us to lecture to them in the
Public Library. This we gladly consented to do on Saturday
evening, March 4th. There was a violent storm at the time,
which prevented some from coming, but the hall was full,
and after we had answered a few questions about education
in America, ar he Ik^uor traffic, on both of which we
had to speak with oii me, we frankly talked to these gentle-
men about Jesus. We took as our theme the cry of the
Greeks : " Sir, we would see Jesus," and we endeavored, in
the power of the Spirit, to tell these men of a crucified and a
living Christ. As we looked into those noble faces, our heart
was filled with love, and "we were willing to impart to them
not only the gospel of Christ, but our own souls also." We
believe many were touched and blessed, and one of the lead-
ing gentlemen afterward sought a personal interview with
us.

I ':

l6o LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

There are great difficulties in the way of these men ; but
God is working on their hearts, and when they break down,
there will be a great break. We can now understand how
Mr. Pentecost and Mr. Varley have been able to preach to
large audiences of them for weeks in Poona, Madras and
other places. We could wish for no higher joy, for a time at
least, than to be able to spend six months among them tell-
ing them of the hving Christ. The lives of our missionaries
among them during the past ten years, here in Akola, have
made a profound impression upon them, and, at the close of
our address the other night, the Chairman let out the secret
by saying that a religion which could produce such lives
could not be a had religion.

On Sabbath afternoon we saw the great weekly bazaar
in the public market. There must have been, at least, ten
thousand people present from all the country round, selhng
their various wares, in all the costumes you could miagine.
This is the time our missionaries got out to work among
them. It was an interesting sight to see Brother Fuller,
Brother Phihps and a lot of our missionaries, standing in the
centre of a great crowd, and preaching to them in Marathi
with an animation not usual in English, and, as one and
another would reply from the crowd, the missionary would
turn the tables on the questioner until he was glad to retire.
The faces of the people showed deep interest, and the audi-
ence lasted as long as the speaker had strength to speak.
Betwoen the addresses the stirring Marathi hymns would be
sung to their beautiful melodies, and the people seemed
always glad to hear them.

■ANDS.

ese men ; but
y break down,
derstand how-
to preach to
Madras and
, for a time at
ig them tell-
missionaries
1 Akola, have
t the close of
ut the secret
ce such lives

i^eekly bazaar
, at least, ten
:ounfl, selling
•uld imagine,
work among
other Fuller,
anding in the
n in Marathi
, as one and
ionary would
lad to retire,
and the audi-
th to speak,
ins would be
(ople seemed

ROADSIDE SCENE, BERAR.
A "Kodak " photograph taken by Mr. Simpson.

OCR WOUK IN liERAR.

I6l

This delightful Convention closed with a conununion ser-
vice on Sabbath afternoon, and an anointing service on Sab-
bath night, in which the spirit of the old Tabernacle meetings
seemed to fall upon all ; and at length we parted in the very
fullness, joy and victory in the Holy Ghost. We need not
add that the children were as happy as any other members of
the party, and little Georgie Fuller is one of the best gospel
singers and preachers in Marathi that go to the bazaars.

On Monday we started with Mr. Fuller to visit the vari-
ous towns of Berar, partly to see our missionaries in theix*
homes, and partly to look over new fields, with a view to the
placing of other missionaries. In most of these towns we
have found a number of people who can speak English, and
have had several pleasant and profitable services in English.
Among others, we visited the capital of the province, Am-
raoti, a fine city of thirty thousand inhabitants, and found it
without a single English missionary. It is a very interesting
place. There are many English officials at the camp, about
two miles outside the town, and an English chaplaincy with
a native pastor of a little branch of the Free Church of Scot-
land ; but in the heathen city of Amraoti itself there is no
English or American missionary.

We got a tonga and irse to drive around the city, and
we had a most interesting t me. It would have been a fine
subiect for a sketch to see us two missionaries on that cart,
trying t(» go forward and see the town, and in front of us
the native driver, and a wicked little horse that would only
go in one direction, and that was backward. Sometimes the

m^mmmm

1 62 LARGER OUTLOOK'S OX AfLSS/OXARy LAXDS.

driver would beat him, but it only mad«! him go a little faster
the wrong way. Sometimes he would pet and pat him on
the back, l)ut it only made him stop and refuse to go at all.
Sometimes Mr. Fuller would assist by poking him vigorously
with his umbrella, but it made no impression— except on the
umbrella. Sometimes the driver would get in front and pull
liim along by main strength, and sometimes he would get
behind and push the cart and horse forward in spite of his
resistance, until we were reminded of the man that ciarried
his horse to town.

Sometimes the pony would vary the performance by
kicking backward with all his might, but fortunately the
bottom of the cait was iron. Occasionally he would take a
notion and go a little way, but he always stopped when he
came t<» a temple, and insisted on going exactly contrary to
the way the driver wanted him. The street boys laughed at
us, and we laughed at oui-selves until we were tired. Finally,
when he had backed us arouna for about two hours, we
liappily came upon another driver, and gave ours up amid
the i)rotestations of the driver that he would be all right
now, and took the other. As we drove out to the camp with
the second pony, which was an excellent one, our former
driver followed us and passed us at a springing i)ace, to let
us see that his horse was all right. And so indeed he was.
It must have been his dislike for missionaries, or perhaps the
low price at which his master was carrying ns. Two can
ride nearly a whole day for two rupees or about sixty cents.
We got more than the worth of our money in a real honest

I' LAXD.S.

go a little faster
md pat him on
use to go at all.
him vigorously
— except on the
1 front and pull
s ho would get
d in spite of his
an that carried

)erformance hy
fortunately the
e would take a
opped when he
ctly contrary to
)oyp laughed at
tired. Finally,
two hours, we
) ours up amid
lid he all right
) the camp with
me, our former
ing jjace, to let
indeed he was.
, or perhaps the
I \i8. Two can
ut sixty cents.
a a real honest

OUR WORK W BERAR.

163

laugh, and would have given a good deal for a photograph

of the scene.

Wo witnf'sned in one of the great temples of Amraoti no

GROUP AT nAILftOAD STATION.
A "Kodak '• photograph taken by Mr. Simpson.

less than four child marriages. In one of these the bride
was about eight and the groom twelve. Both were very
handsome. The pecuUarity of the ceremony was the tymg

mn^ ' im n mmvmmmK^mmam^mmmmm mm- ' Ami^m-iw mi^^

164 LARGER OUTLOOKS OX .V/SS/OXAA')' L.tXPS.

ot their robt's toKetlior in a knot, and then the Hinearin^ of
a yellow and crimson powder over both of tlienj. Tlic rest
of the ceremony was inside the sacred portion of the temple,
which we wero not permitted to ' ter. Poor, little, pretty
thing ! if she sbonld become a w idow how sad her fate
wonld be, and there are millions of such widows in India.

We trust ere long this fine old city will be the scene of a
gladder sjjectacle, and that many a littl« one shall be wedded,
within its walls, to that husband who will never cause her
heart a sorrow. We trust that it will be opened as a mission
station of the Alliance before the close of the year.

We found some Christian people here. The presence of
English-speaking people and C hristian natives in so many of
the cities of India is a wonderful preparation for the Gospel,
giving a nucleus for the work in each place, and not unlike
the little companies of Jews the apostles found wherever
they went. Then there are excellent roads, and, in most
cases, fair houses can be obtained. Besides, there is a
strong English government, affording the best protection to
life and property. In most towns there is a public inn at the
depot, maintained by the government, where the traveller
can get comfortable shelter.

The roads are superb, and the best of public conveyances
can almost always be obtained, and a little money will go a
great way. Railway travelling is very cheap. Money is
worth more than twice as much as in America. A coin, the
sixth part of a cent, will buy a good deal. And a rupee,
thirty cents, is pmctically woith nearly a dollar. Roast beef

i^riFrifrifiT

iteififtnr •f-t^lWInfiili

^ liiii^giSliiii^

le 8mearing of
lem. The rest
of tho toiuple,
r, littlo, pretty

sad luM- fate
WH ill India,
the scene of a
lall be wedded,
3ver cause lier
id as a mission
year.

lie presence of
in so many of
'or the Gospel,
nd not imlike
>und wherever

and, in most
;s, there is a
fc protection to
iblic inn at the
3 the traveller

ic conveyances
oney will go a
ip. Money is
. A coin, the
And a rupee,
r. Roast beef

Oth' IIOA'A' /X /.'AV./A'.

165

costs three cents a pound, and oranges much superior to ours
half a cent apiece.

The land is most wondrously prepared for the gospel. It
is lying at our feet, for us to go in and occupy it, and it will
be an everlasting shame if all its villages and hamlets are

V^^ WTfi

A NATIVE VILLAQE.

not taken possession (»f foi- Christ by the end of the nine-
teenth century.

And yet what have we done ? Let this one province of
Berar speak for others. Until six months ago, out of twelve
great counties in the district which we have taken as our field,
containing a population of about two million v^^pl©* ^J^^ ^^

I 66 LARGER OUTLOOKS OX M/SSIOXARY LANDS.

least twenty-five thousand villages, only one city had been
permanently occupied by any English missionary. For
nearly two hundred miles you pass along the great railway
line between Bombay and Calcutta, from Bhusawal almost to
Nagpur, through scores of cities which are great cotton
marts ; cities that are in the centre of dense populations ;
cities that iiave English officials and residents, and every ac-
companiment of modern civilization, and yet in all this great
stretch of country, until six months ago, there was but one
city, Akola, which had a single voice to tell of Jesus.

God has laid this great land, out for us, and crossed and
recrossed it with a thousand open ways. We have scarcely
begun to occupy it yet. Our present force will be distributed
along one hundred miles of this railway line by the end of
I his year ; but it will still take thousands to occupy the rest
of India even as )nuch as this, with a station every ^wenfcy-
five or fifty miles.

We do thank God for the glorious beginning we have
seen. In eveiy way it far exceeds our expectations. But,
in eveiy way, the need that still remains as far exceeds our
highest conception hitherto. Let us send a thousand mis-
sionaries to India in the next five years.

3ESISS355

LANDS.

city had been
issionary. For
e gieat railway
sawal almost to
e great cotton
ie populations ;
i, and every ac-
in all this great
■re was but one
I Jesus.

ind crossed and
) have scarcely
1 be distributed
e by the end of
)ccupy the rest

every ^wenty-

inning we have

ctations. But,

'ar exceeds our

thousand mis-

XI.

BERAR TO NELLORE AND MADRAS.

TWO more days were spent in visiting our stations west
of Akola. Wednesday we went to Khamgaon, a
beautiful town of about ir>,0(M) inhabitants, lying a
few miles south of the main i-ailway line, and reached by a
little branch line.

We have seen few mission fields in India as accessible by
railway as the Berar country. It is easily reached from Bom-
bay by missionaries on their arrival, and almost all our prin-
cipal stations are on the great trunk line of railway which
runs from Bombay to Calcutta, and has several trains daily.
And even towns like Amraoti and Khamgaon that lie off the
main line are reached by branches. After one has travelled
over land in a cart fifty or a hundred miles, as many of our
missionaries have to, to reach their field, they fully appreciate
this advantage.

Khamgaon is among the prettiest of the Berar towns. Its
people are of the better class, its streets are cl«^au, its stores and
bazaars have quite a city look, and everybody seems to have
a certain amount cf leisme, and to be in easy circum-
stances.

wim

i68

LARGEk OUTLOOKS OX ISIISSIONARY LAXDS.

We drove about the town in the afternoon in the bullock
cart, and visited the Public School and High School, and had
a very interesting talk with the principal and several of the
teachers, one of whom is the pundit or teacher of some of
oui missionaries in the study of the language. We found
thoni very friendly, and willing to talk freely. They are
Brahmins, representing the highest caste. But they did not
hesitate to say to us : " The caste superstition is dying out,"
and when we called their attention to the remark, they did
not try to explain it aAvay, but repeated the same remark a
little later.

In the evening we had a meeting in the Educational
Hall, attended by a considerable number of the educated
natives. There were over sixty present, with a few Euro-
peans. \>'e spoke, with great freedom, of the power of the
gospel, and pressed it home upon their consciences and hearts
in the consciousness of the Holy Spirit's power and working.
We saw much of the same feeling here that we have already
refened to at Akola, a very frank and open spirit and a dis-
position to listen to the gospel with interest and fairness.
Many of them seem to be under deep conviction, but none
have as yet broken through in full decision for God. It will
cost them nuich to do this, for behind them lies not only the
awful bond of caste and the certainty of being henceforth out-
casts from all they love, but also a network of sin and wrong
which it would w^reck every earthly prospect to confess, and
take all they possess to rectify.

LANDS.

in the bullock
;hool, and had
several of the
er of some of
B. We found
ly. They are
t they did not
is dying out,"
lark, they did
ime remark a

e Educational
the educated
a few Euro-
power of the
ces and hearts
and working.
e have already
lit and a dis-
and fairness,
ion, but none
• God. It will
5 not only the
enceforth out-
sin and wrong
J confess, and

DERAR TO NRLLORE AXD MADRAS.

169

The nucleus of tlie future chui-ch at Khamgaon, at pres-
ent, consists of two native Christians, — Lakshan and Sarah —
a husband and wife, the family servants of the Missionary
Home. It was very interesting to sit down at night and hear
from them the story of their conversion, and commend them,
and all that shall yet be gathered with them, to the blessing of

GROUP OF HOUSEHOLD, KHAMOAON.
A ' ' Kodak ' ' photograph taken by Mr. Simpson.

the great Shepherd, who already knows them all by name

before they are born.

» The next morning we left early, in Miss Bates' bullock

wsm

LARGER OUTLOOKS OX MTSSIONARY L^NDS.

cart, for Shegaon, eleven miles distant. On our way we
passed the grave of Mr. Scott, a faithful missionary, who
came out in connection with the work of Dr. Cullis, and laid
down his life for Jesus here, eight years ago. We love to
recognize the worth of those who have gone before, and to
believe that much of the blessing, that is now coming upon
this fair city, is in answer to the dying prayers of this servant
of God and othei*s who have labored here before.

We have a beautiful missionary home circle at Kham-
gaon, and could oiu- friends at home look for a few moments
at the sweet picture that met our eye in the bungalow, with
dear Carrie Bates in the midst of the little household, they
would not think it such a melancholy thing to be a. mission-
ary.

They all accompanied us to Shegaon, and theirs were
among the last faces we saw as we left Berar. God bless the
little flock at Khamgaon !

We found the friends at Shegaon waiting to receive us.
We all had breakfast together and found the little bungaloAV
fairly comfortable, but not quite so suitable as some of the
others. It was the very best that could be obtained under
the circumstances, and Mr. Fuller was only too glad to get it
in the pressure of the large arrival of missionaries. But the
house is too far from the native village, and not suitable for
the permanent Missionary Home. It will be difficult to ob-
tain a good house here, and if oui work is to be continued in
this important centre we shall have to build them a little
Home. After breakfast we went out and saw the town and

■ yj t J ■ 'j W W WB M l W g J

rLVDS.

our way we

isionary,

who

lUis, and laid
We love to
)efoie, and to
coming upon
•f this servant

:\e at Khara-
few moments
ngalow, with
usehold, they
be a missiou-

1 theii's were
God bless the

to receive us.
ttle bungalow
1 some of the
)tained under
glad to get it
•ies. But the
t suitable for
ifflcult to »jb-
} continued in
them a little
;he town and

■«?»

BERAR TO XELLORE AXP MADRAS.

171

the site that had been suggested for a Home, and by faith we
took possession of it.

Shegaon is an important city on the G. I. P. Railway, the
principal railway in India. It is about forty miles west of
Akola, and an important cotton market. We visited an im-
mense cotton press here that gives employment to a large
number of people. It is a County Seat, and is the centre of
about one hundred and fifty thousand people, who must re-
ceive the gospel from this centre.

Our friends will see that we have already our mission-
aries stationed at four important centres in Berar, viz., Akola
in the centre, Badnera in the east, and Khamgaon and She-
gaon in the west. Besides these there are seveial other im-
portant County Seats where we hope to have stations planted
before the close of the year, and Mr. Fuller is already arrang-
ing for buildings.

If these points can be occupied during the present year,
the province of Berar will be as fully occupied by missionary
centres as any district of India, and the gospel may be
preached to all its people before the end of the century.
But, after this is done, there is still a long chain of cities on
the same railway for one hundred miles west of Berar, unoccu-
pied. These are all Marathi people, speaking the same lan-
guage as the people of Berar. The total Marathi population
of India is not less than 15,000,000, and it is doubtful if one-
half of them are yet within reach of the gospel.

There is a great Marathi population in Khandesh and the
western part of the Nizam's Dominions, which can be easily

'"nH

172 LARGEH OCTLOOk'S OX MISSIONARY LANDS.

reached from our present centres in Berar, and there is an
equally large population in the northern and north-eastern
]»art of this Dominion, where there are yet no missionaries,
speaking partly Marathi and partly Telugu, and these can be
reached from our eastern Berar stations, so that we have yet
room in connection with the Berar Mission to send out at
least one hundred more missionaries before this field can be
even fairly occupied in its great centre of population. With
this force we can reach about eight millions of people who
are still without the gospel.

We finally left our friends in Berar on Thursday, March
9th, just twelve days after landing in India. It was a little
like leaving home as we looked into their dear faces once
more, and thought of the years till we should meet again.
We were so glad they were all photographed on our heart
and His. We almost envied our brother Fuller — with that
blessed company. Accompanied by Mr. Fuller, who has
kindly given us his precious time for a fortnight, to look over
the larger field in the interests of our common work, we
started again on our journey.

Indian railways are not like American. There are no
sleeping cars, and a continuous journey of two or three
weeks is not a perfect luxuiy. You take your travelling rug
and pillow with you and just lie down at night on your seat,
if there is room, and the car is not too crowded. Every two
or three days you can stop over somewhere long enough to
get a good bath, and you feel that whatever water is in other
countries it is a necessity of life in India.

««>

SESm

AMDS.

1 there is an
loith-easfern
missionaries,
these can be
we have yet
send out at
I field can be
ition. Witli
people who

•sday, March
t was a little
ir faces once
meet again,
)n our heart
r — with that
jr, who has
, to look over
)n work, we

rhere are no
wo or three
ravelling rug
)n your seat.
Every two
g enough to
er is in other

BRRAR TO X EI. LORE AXD MADRAS.

175

The first i)oint we desired to reach was Nellore, the head-
quarters of the Telugu mission of the American Baptist Mis-
sionary Union. This is the wonderful work whi.h (Jod has
so greatly honored in the past ten years by the ingathering
of tens of thousands of souls from among the heathen.

Our journey took us through Ahmednagar, the seat of

TEMPLES AT NASIK.

the American Marathi Mission, and a portion of the Nizam's
Dominions. As we approached the east coast we found quite
a different climate and country. While Berar was almost in
midsummer and all the fields were withered and the crops
harvested, the country near Madras was yet in much of the
freshness of spring — the jewaree and rice were wiving in the
rich, green fields, and the country was in many places very

B^'

174

LARGER OUTLOOK'S; ON MLSSTOh'ARY LANDS.

lovely. The eastern rains come later than the western, and
the vegetation is two months later.

Nellore, the seat of the Telugu jnission, is a district
ahout as large as Berar, lying north of Madras, on the coast.
The Telugu people are a Dravidian race numbering about as
many as the Marathi—1 0,000,000 people.

The student of Indian missions should understand the
languages of India or he will never be able to iniderstand its
mission work. In the north and west of India there are
seven great Aryan languages ; viz., the Hindi spoken by one
hundred million, the Bengali by about eighteen millions, the
Punjaubi by twelve millions, the Marathi by fifteen millions,
the Sindi by about three millions, the Oria by five millions,
and the Gujerati by about six millions of people.

In Southern India there are four principal languages be-
longing to the Dravidian people, an inferior race, who were
pushed south by their Aryan conquerors. These are : the
Telugu, spoken by sixteen millions in eastern India, near
Madras ; the Tamil, spoken by twelve millions, on the south-
east coast, below Madras ; the Cannerese, spoken by seven
millions, in Mysore chiefly ; and the Malayallin, spoken by
about three millions of the people of south-western India.

Our work is among the Marathi people, and the Baptist
work among the Telugus. The mission was planted in
Nellore, about fifty years ago, by Drs. Jewett, Day and other
pioneers. But for a long while it seemed so fruitless that
the Board was again and again on the eve of abandoning it,
and many a prayer went up to the Throne, and many a tender

.ANDS.
western, and

is a district
on the coast,
•ing about as

iderstand the
nderstand its
dia there are
poken by one
I millions, the
teen millions,
five millions,
e.

languages he-
.ce, who were
hese are : the
a India, near
on the south-
icen by seven
n, spoken by
tern India,
d the Baptist
s planted in
Day and other
fruitless that
bandoning it,
nany a tender

MR. SIMPSON'S COOLIE CART, ON THE ROAD TO RAMPATAN.
A "Kodak " photograph taken by Mr. Simpson.

'mnt^mfvmmmm

JIER.IK TO KEI.LORF. AND MAHRAS.

175

appeal for tlie "Lone Star Mission," as it was called. At
length the showers of blessing began to fall, and in the last
twenty y«'ars more than thirty thonsand have been baptized
and gathered into the various churches in and around Nell-
ore, Ongole, etc. We need not say that it has been a great
joy and blessing to us to visit this blessed work, even for a
single Sabbath.

We reached Xellore at noon on Saturday, March 1 I , and,
after a kind welcome from the dear missionaries there, and
a visit to the various homes and schools, we determined to
go out, if possible, to Ongole for the Sabbath ; and if not, at
least to Rampatam the seat of their Theological Seminary.

Our journey was quite a romantic one, and a very labo-
rious one. Ongole was seventy-three miles distant, and
there was no railway or even mail-coach. Horses could not
be obtained anywhere, and bullocks would take days for the
journey. So we accepted the advice of the missionaries, and
took not a mail coach, but literally a mule coach ; that is to
say, we engaged a dozen Hindus, called Coolies, aiid two ox-
carts, and our Coolie boys just harnessed themselves to the
carts and started off at a springing pace. After running ten
miles they would stop on the road and shout awhile at a
country village until a dozen new Coolies gathered, and these
were engaged as. a fresh team for the next stage, and the
others walked back. We gave each of them about a cent a
mile, and they considered it good pay. The carts were
pretty rough, and had no springs nor seats ; we just lay
down on the bottom on the straw covered with a mat and a
rug, and were pretty well shaken up by morning.

1 I

BPi^ l Myj.r''Wipi|R44J:-#}:v;J:-%|l#li^^

^^?w^^..

T76 J.ARai'.R OUTr.OOk'S ON .VISSIOXAKV LANDS.

And so we started off, Mi- Fuller ui one cart and we in
the other, and our ("ot)lit' bos: inad<! the air rinj? with their
noisy cries as they dashed away. We started at 4 P.M., and
♦ill sunset the road led through a lovely country, green with
rice fields, and lined with noble pahns and banyarjs. The
sun went down, and still we rattle<l on, hour aftei" hour, un-
til at 4 A.M., after twelve hours' riding, we cmiH to a
halt.

We could not get fresh Coolies for sou.e hmirs, and so,
finding that we could not reach < )ngo)«' until too late for the
Sabbath morning service, and that vve, would nearly lose our
day, we felt the Lord would have us stay at Rainpatani,
where wo then were. So we turned our Coolies up the lane
that led to the Mission, and were soon inside the beautiful
Mission Compound, and welcomed by Di-. Bog^s and his kind
wife, at that early morning hour, as if we lad been old
friends.

We had a most delightful day, and learn erl almost as
much of the Telugu work as if we had got to Ongole.

We attended the native service in tlv morning, and heard
them sing their weird Telugu hymns. At the close of the
morning service Dr. Boggs announced that we would preach
in the evening through an interpreter, and he said a few
kind words about our work and our dependence upon the
Holy Ghost, and begged them to come prepared to receive a
great blessing.

This seemed to +ouch a deep spring in their hearts, for just
after service one oi Tin r. rive Christians, one of their most

■%

cart niul wo in
rinjjC with theii'
at 4 P.M., and
try, greon witli
banyans. Tlic
aftoi- lu)ur, iin-
we camH to a

> hmtrs, and bo,
;oo late for tlie
nearly lose our
at Ram pa tarn,
ies up the lane
e the beautiful
;gs and his kind
e »ad been old

vn&\ almost as
Ongole.

■uing, and lieurd
he close of the
e would preach
he said a few
[lence upon the
•ed to receive a

'hearts, for just
e of their most

nr.KAR TO NELLOKE AND MADttAS.

177

JiiWM*- i^M i ta t maMi 111 * 11 I B ji ,j l u iii

COOLIE CART AND PARTY UNDER f ANVAN TREE, NELLORE.
A " Kodak " photograph taken >y Mr. Simpson.

earnest teachers and also physician nd one of their leading
men, came over to the bungalow, and, with a face streaming
with tears, and a look we shall neve forget, asked us all to
pray for him that he might receive i e baptism of the Holy-
Ghost. Never shall we forget that fa e and the cry that fol-

J'lr'

ff"

178 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MLSS/ONARV LANDS.

lowed, as, with liis face on the floor, he begged God to give
liim His greatest gift. We spoke a few words and pointed
him to the precious promises in the beginning of Isaiah xliv.,
and he went away comforted. '"*

We found that a most remarkable movement had just
broken out in this Mission, from which greater results are
lioped than even the revival of the past ten years. It seems
that the more earnest missionaries have been feeling very anx-
ious for some time lest the work among great masses of their
people should prove shallow and wholesale. There has been
much j:>rayer for a deeper Christian life among the people,
and especially the preachers. God has begun to answer the
prayer in a very strange way. A few months ago one of their
most prominent native preachers,— indeed, the man most
honored and trusted for piety and abiUty,— publicly confessed
to many things in liis life since becoming a Christian, that
deeply touched the whole Mission, and then with deep humil-
ity he asked God's mercy, and gave himself n.p for a deeper
consecration, and the baptism of the Holy Spirit. Since then
he has been used of God to lead many of their people into a
similar experience, and the mission is going through a blessed
breaking uj) that would alarm many if they did not under-
stand God's way of convincing His own people of sin that He
may wholly sanctify them.

For ourselves we cannot but regard this as a most hope-
ful divine movement, intended to teach both missionaries and
people the absolute need of a deeper work of grace, if the
converts are to retain even their first blessing. The coming

iMHtaMa|PHi«-l

"^y LANDS.

;ged God to give
/ords and jwinted
igof Isaiaii xliv,,

vement had just
eater results are
years. It seems
feeling very anx-
it masses of their
There has been
long the people,
m to answer the
s ago one of their
[, the man most
)ublicly confessed
a Christian, that
with deep humil-
iip for a deeper
pirit. Since then
eir people into a
;hrough a blessed
y did not under-
)le of sin that He

i as a most hope-
missionaries and
: of grace, if the
ig. The coming

<M»BiaW H I .IWLk ! lJ* S UftJXJ.it::Jg> ' l ! gl f5a LJi gM

BERAR TO NELLORE AND MADRAS.

179

of this dear physician to us was just in this line. In the
evening service we tried to speak to these dear people through
the voice of Dr. Boggs. and although we felt the awkward-
ness of not being able to touch them directly in their own
tongue, yet we believe there was much blessing, and at the
close every hand was raised to ask and receive this blessing,
and Di-. Boggs announced a continuance of the services on
Monday evening. We left them claiming a gi-eat outpouring
of the Holy Ghost upon these people.

We had a blessed English sei-vice afterwards with the
missionaries, and all our hearts together received a great
uplift. Many precious hours were spent during tb;* «iay in
blessed converse with these dear servants of Christ, whose
spirit was more tender, humble and full of holy unction than
we have often met, and we learned much respecting the work
of God among the Telugus, and the yet unoccupied regions
where they are scattered.

We left at 10 P. M. for the return journey, and reached
Nellore in twelve hours, and found our dear missionary
friends waiting breakfast for us. After breakfast, most of
the members of the Nellore Church were gathered in the
church to hold a service for us here. We both spoke to these
dear people through an interpreter, and then theii- native
pastor asked them if they had any message to send back to
America. Never shall we forget the dignity and the tender-
ness with which Julia, one of the oldest converts of the mis-
sion, arose and said :

"I want to thank the dear friends that have spoken to

mammmam

l8o LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

US to-day, and to ask them to thank the dear friends in Amer-
ica that have sent us the gospel which has saved us from oin*
heathen idolatry, and brought us cleansing through the pre-
cious blood of Jesus, of which we have heard to-day. I was
one of the first converts of the Mission and know of the
labors of Mi\ Jewett, Mr. Day and others, who stood firmly

BAZWADA, IN THE TELUQU COUNTRY.

by us and urged the Board to stand by us in the discouraging^
days when they were tempted sorely to give it up. Remem-
ber us to all the friends in America, and ask them to do all in
their power to send the gospel to our perishing people."

This is a little of what Julia said, and said in as good
grammar as we have used and almost in these very words.
But no words could express the fervor and earnestness with.

mSSm

4Nns.

ids in Amer-
us from our
jgh the pre-
■day. I was
enow of the
stood firmly

■ i«0

discouraging^
ip, Eemem-
m to do all in
)eople."
id in as good
3 very words.
lestness with

BERAR TO NELLORE AND MADRAS.

x8i

wmmf^mmammr,

which she stood there and spoke for the 30,000 Telugus that
have given their hearts to Christ in the past twenty years.
We can give our readers no better idea of it than by reminding
them of one of good Mrs. Bruce's testimonies in the Taber-
nacle at some of the Friday meetings. She was followed by
he»- husband, also an old convert of the Mission, and his re-
marks were most dignified, sensible and earnest. Could our
friends in Am-
erica have seen
these dear peo-
ple, they would
have felt re-
paid for even
years of wait-
ing and work-
ing for mis-
sions.

The native
pastor also

spoke very well and told us that he was now entirely sus-
tained by his own church. His native membership exceeds
seven hundred. One can scarcely realize the joy with which
we grasped the hands of these dark-skinned Telugus, and
saw in them the types of the precious ones we yet expect to
greet from our own work in Berar and elsewhere, "if we
faint not."

Among our pleasant surprises at Nellore was our meet-
ing with Seetama, a dear Hindu woman whom we had met

CATAMARANS, MAORAS.

W*^

l8a LARGER OUTLOOKS ON .mSSTOXARY LANDS.

in New York in the Tabernacle a few months ago, and who,
while studying in America, had often come to our church.
It seemed like home to see the "Alliance" on her table,
and we were delighted to learn that she is the wife of Veras-
wamy, the native preacher whom God is using so graciously
in deepening the spiritual life of the Telugus.

We left Nellore in the afternoon and reached Madras
early the next morning. We found ourselves in a grand
Oriental City, nine miles long, and containing a popxilation
nearly as great as Bombay. It has a much more Oriental
look than Bombay. It is widely spread out over a vast
area.

We had occasion to make some purchases and went to
two or three of the largest stores. As we drove in at the
splendid gateway we found ourselves in a magnificent com-
pound like the grounds of a villa ; and back from the streets,
like an elegant mansion, stood the store, a vast establishment
like Arnold's or Macy's inside, but outside just hke some
aristocratic residence and grounds. The Elphinstone Hotel,
where we stayed, was like an old paliace with an appearance
of faded grandeur. The residences of the wealthy Europeans
are usually very pretty bungalows, with large verandahs
surrounded by rich and luxuriant grounds full of magnificent
tropical trees and plants. The colors of the houses are gen-
erally quite rich— pink, blue and white, with much decora-
tion. The Hindu quarters have all the squalor of other India
cities. The streets are picturesque with all colors of dress
and all kinds of people.

B«

'm^Mxim^tif^si

igo, and who,
) our church,
on her table,
wife of Veras-
8o graciously

ached Madras
js in a grand
a population
more Oriental
t over a vast

s and went to
ove in at the
;nificent coni-
m the streets,
establishment
ust like some
nstone Hotel,
m appearance
thy Europeans
'ge verandahs
)f magnificent
3uses are gen-
much decora-
of other India
olors of dress

BERAR TO .\ELLORi: AND MADRAS.

183

The women of eastern India are much less dressed than
in the west ; but they make up for it by brilliant colors,
usually wearing a bright red scarf, loosely thrown over one
shoulder and gathered closely round the loins and reaching
to the knees. The women of the western and central provinces
carry their robe over the entire body and throw it, also, very

MAORA&

gracefully over the head. The eastern people are nuich
darker than the western, but they have the same European
features, and the children are all beautiful.

Here in Madras we saw, for the first time, the Coolies
drawing the ox-carts in the streets, and acting instead of
oxen or draught horset; in canying most of the freight and
merchandise through the city. It seems so strange to see

sit:

|S4 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS,

men, barefooted and almost naked, drawing a great cart filled
with bales of goods, perhaps a ton in weight, along the
street.

Prices are extremely low. For a few shillings we got a
carriage for a whole day and 8a^■■ a great deal of the city.
There are fine gardens and an excellent museum, containing
specimens of the animal and vegetable life of the whole coun-
try, and especially of Southern India, and also many inter-
esting works of art from the ancient temples. There was a
tremendous tiger, and one could well believe that the strong-
est lion is a plaything before his superior strength. These
lordly and dangerous brutes are still sometimes met with,
even by our missionaries, in the hills, and we have heard
already some personal testimonies from missionaries here, of
their providential escapes. There were endless varieties of
monkeys and other animals, and plants and trees in great
variety.

One of the most touching sights of the day was a drive
to the place of burning, where the Hindus cremate the bod-
ies of their dead. It is a great cemetery, where we saw pile
after pile on which the mounds of earth and ashes of calcined
bones were still smoking. As we came out we met a funeral
procession just entering. The father was carrying his dead
baby in his arms. A lad was going before, whistling through
a shell the most weird and mournful dirge. There was a
little company of boys and men following behind. There
were no women. They were at home.

That father would lay that little body on one of these

ANDS,

reat cart filled
ht, along the

ings we got a
1 of the city,
m, containing
9 whole coun-
) many inter-
There was a
at the strong-
jngth. These
les met with,
e have heard
laries here, of
is varieties of
trees in great

f was a drive
nate the bod-
3 we saw pile
les of calcined
met a funeral
■yiug his dead
tling through
There was a
jhind. There

one of these

BERAR TO NELLORE AND MADRAS.

I8S

mounds, on a pile of wood, then they would heap up over the
body a pile of sticks and dried manure (their fuel here), and
then they would set it on fire and sit and watch till a loud re-
port proclaimed that the skull )iud burst and the work of dis-
solution was begun. Then they would go home to their

TOWER OF SILENCE, MALABAR POINT, BOMBAY.

cheerless hut without a ray of our glorious hope. We turned
away so sad and yet so glad ; so sad for them, so glad for
Jesus and our hope in Him.

The Parsees have a yet sadder funeral rite. At Bombay
they take you to their "Towers of Silence," where they ex-

lJillJ)liaUUI ' 4.W.!»i l '--'MfatWJlj^JHt.« '<

— ail

i86

LARGER OVTLOOKS (hV .AflSSlOXARY LANDS.

pose the bodies of their dead to be dev.nu-ed by the vultures
and other birds of prey. They worshi]) the elements — air and
fire - and they believe that the decomposing bodies of the dead
defile them. And so they carry them to a lone tower, where
the priests receive them and carry them aloft while the friends
return to their homes. Tlie vultures are always waiting; to
do their dreadful work. Think of these sad sights, beloved
Christians of America, and while you thank God for the light
and love that Christianity has gathered around the toml) —
pray— 'pray — pray for poor India,

We saw a few of the missionaries and learned something
of the Christian work of the city. We dined at the American
Baptist Mission, meeting three of their dear workers who are
engaged respectively in the English, Telugu and Tamil work
in Madras. We took afternoon tea with the good missionary
of the Methodist Church and his good wife. We found them
in the midst of a precious revival. We were glad to learn
that our dear brother, Kev. Henry Varley, of England, had
just closed his special services in the Tent formerly used by
Dr. Pentecost, amid great blessing, the audiences having in-
creased up to the end.

We found, as we expected, two das^ os of missionaries
and two kinds of work. The one is spiritual and evangelistic
and the other educational, secular, conservative, and not un-
like the worldly element in the church at home. We have
been glad to find much more of the former cla!;s than we ex-
pected, and to find it most catholic, humble, earnest, hungry
for a deeper spiritual life ; and aggressive and evangelistic in
its work. We have come less in contact, as might be ex-

iMaai

ANDS.

" the vultures
ents — air iin«l
esof the(l«'H(l
tower, where
lie the friends
5^8 waiting to
ghts, beloved
for the light
1 the toml) —

ed something
:he American
kers who are
I Tamil work
•d missionary
^ found them
glad to learn
^^ngland, had
iierly used by
es having in-

missionaries
1 evangelistic
, and not un-
e. We have
I than "we ex-
•nest, hungry
vangelistic in
might be ex-

BEPAK TO XF.I.r.OR/-: .l.\'/> M.WRAS.

187

pected, with tlw other element, but have heard mueb alxnit
it and its injurious influences upon the missionary work «>f

India.

It is represented in Madras by the ( 'hristiau College. This
is a splendid Univei-sity, presided over by a minister and f(»r-
mer missionary of the Seotch Presbyterian Church. It has
nineteen hundred students, not only from European families
but the leading Hindu families. It easily leads all the educa-
tional institutions of the East in its high literal y standing. It
is tlu^ development of the educational work which the Scottish
church has always made so prominent, and in which such
gi-eat and good men as Drs. Duff and Wilson labored so suc-
cessfully.

But what is it doing for Missions ? It is purely secular,
teaching the liible. it is true, but only as a literary work, and
carefully guarding against anything that could give offense to
its Hindu c;onstituency. It has even been said that the con-
version and i)ublit; confession of one of the students would be
regardi'd as an embarrassr .ent, ^<\. might break up the con-
stituency that supports it. Its aim seems to be to bring the
Hindus into European culture, and then hope that by a sec-
ond stage— .sometime later— they may come into Christianity.
One of the missionaries characterized it as ''non-sectarian
and non-relujiovs:' This is not a high compliment for a
Christian College.

Thank God, this is not the work for which Christ has
sent our missionaries to India. And thank Him still more
that this is not the purpose and work of very many of ihe
best missionaries of India,

li:|

XII.

MADRAS TO BOMBAY.

THE Hist iinpulso that comes to you when you look at a
hoautiful or interesting object is to shaio your pleas-
ure with some one else. How often have we wished,
since we have been in India, t^iat we could take all our friends
along with us I

A thoroughly satisfactoi-j visit to India and its mission-
aries would require at least a year. A rapid journey of five
weeks through a country as large as the United States^ east
of the Mississippi River, can only include its larger cent'-es,
and enable oven the most attentive observer to form first im-
pressions. But, I'ke true instincts, these have a certain value
that later study and observation will only confirm, especially
if we have learned to look at things in some measure with
the Lord's eyes and with reference to His work and His
gloiy.

Leaving Madras at sunset we awoke next morning in the
beautiful cantonment of Bangalore.

This is considered tlie most beautiful city of Southern
India. It has many English residences, and is full of handsome
bungalows occupied by wealthy army officers and other for-
eigners. These bungalows are built in thoroughly Hindu style,

^Mmwmii

you look at a
le your pleas-
ve we wished,
all our friends

d its inission-
^urney of five
id States, east
irger cent"es,
form first im-
i certain value
rin, especially
measure with
vork and His

lorning in the

'■ of Southern
I of handsome
nd other for-
r Hindu style,

IE
O

lil

MADRAS TO fiOA/BA >'.

i8g

with low, tiled roofs, wide verandahH, colossal ])illais, rich
colors on walls and roofs, ii.ngnillccnt a|){)roaclu'S through
Bplendid {^rounds lillod with palms, hanyans, mango troos and
all tho affluence of trojjical flowers and i)lants. The po[)ula-
tion of the city is nearly 200,000, hut it covers n great space.
The streets are wide and tho private grounds around tho va-
rious hungalows are spacious. The Government offices and
the Rajah's Palace are very handsome huildings.

Bangalore is tho chief city of Mysore, a large independ-
ent state of India. There are several of these great native
states. Their rulers were loyal to the English during times
of trouhle in tho past, and they have been allowed to retain
the sovereignity of their states under the oversight of an
English resident, who exercises somewhat tlie same relation
to the native Government that the British Resident does to
the Egyptian Khedive.

Among the largest of these native Principalities are
Hyderabad, the Nizam's Dominions, Mysore, Baroda, Guzerat
and Rajpootana. Mysore is a very fine country. Its popu-
lation cannot be less than eight or ten millions. Its chmato
is very fine. It is never very hot xt Bangalore, and, of
course, it is never very cold. We had very fine raspbomes
for breakfast at the Baptist Mission at Bangalore, and we be
lieve they have them all the year round. The altitude is very
high, the whole plain being several thousand feet above the
sea.

"We got into touch with the Christian work of the city.
We visited the Methodist and Baptist Mission and saw the

MHi

g^.

immmmmmx-mKmmr,

190 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

Baldwin Boys' School which had over one hundred hoys in
attendance ; also the Girls' Home, presided over by Mrs.
Baker. We met several missionaries at the American Bap-
tist Mission, including Mr. and Mrs. Armstrong, of Maul-
main, whom we had met on the way. Dr. McLaurin has
charge of the Baptist work, and especially of the Literary and
Publishing Department. We need not say that we met the
same large-hearted Christian hospitality here which we had
already experienced at Nellore and Rampatam.

At the home of the English Baptist missionary we had
the pleasure of meeting again our dear brother. Rev. Henry
Varley, of England, who had just closed his special services
in Madras, and was beginning similar meetings in Bangalore.
He had been much encouraged with the results of the Mad-
ras work. The tent formerly used by Dr. Pentecost had been
crowded every night, and much deep and spiritual interest
had been manifested. Many of the students had come to
talk with him, and some of the wealthy Hindus had contrib-
uted toward the expenses of the meetings in such a way as
to show their deep interest. He hopes to return next year
and continue his work. His meetings are attended by many
Europeans and Eurasians, and also by many Hindus.

There is among the educated natives a very great willing-
ness to attend Enghsh meetings, and it would not be difficult
at any time in many of the larger cities to get several hun-
dred of them to come together for many nights, to listen to
an interesting speaker on the truths of Christianity. Nor
can there be any doubt that they are often much moved, and
many of them very seriously considering the claims of Christ

' MJliji i u^i-iia-aJMii.

,-li..l!.l^iS

'.AMDS.

adred boys in
over by Mrs.
Lmerican Bap-
ong, of Maul-
McLaurin has
e Literary and
t we met the
which we had

onary we had
r, Rev. Henry
pecial services
in Bangalore.
5 of the Mad-
jcost had been
'itual interest

had come to
3 had contrib-
;uch a way as
u'n next year
aded by many
indus.

great willing-
lot be difficult

several hun-
s, to listen to
jtianity. Nor
;h moved, and
lims of Christ

vm&imiis:S !m<i? 9S^!!S >&

MADRAS TO liOMBAY.

191

upon their own hearts. In a few cases they have yielded to
the strong considerations which God has been pressing upon
them, and come out unreservedly on the side of Christ, bear-
ing to the end the heavy cross which it involves for them.

A NATIVE FUNERAL.

But, notwithstanding all this, the fact remains, as an old
missionary said to us this week : " The solid wall of Hindu-
ism has not yet been even shaken."

Most of the converts have been from the outcast races,
the Pariahs of India. The great castes have not been broken

KaeE^BaHBSi»3^^^@aM!ia«iia£^;5|f?^

192 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

through, or to any great extent brought under the influence
of tho Gospel. But Mr. Varley's meetings have reached
many of these people with a kind of truth they have not very
often heard.

They are quite familiar with Christianity as a religious
system, and have heard much of its principles and philoso-
phy. But we are glad to say that Mr. Varley is meeting
them in quite a different fashion from the average lecturer
and literary writer. With the boldness of a true minister of
Jesus Christ, he is telling these proud men to their faces of
the supreme claims of the Son of God, and ridicuHng the
idea of, for a moment, comparing them with the unholy
pretensions of their so-called Incarnations of the Deity. He
is bearing down upon their conscience with the great ques-
tions of sin and accountability, and presenting the living
truths and facts of evangelical Christianity in the power of
the Spirit, and many of them are, no doubt, deeply im-
pressed.

We believe God will send many more sach messengers to
the people of this land, and that there will yet be a breaking
down of great numbers which will fill the hearts of God's pray-
ing and believing children with great joy. What the people
of India need most is spiritual power. There has been much
intellectual work, and they can match our culture with cul-
ture, too. But they cannot resist the power of conscience
and the Holy Ghost, the living facts of a holy life, and a tes-
timony which carries with it the conviction of divine reality
and power.

From Bangalore we passed through the Mysore country

wmm

LANDS.

the influence
have reached
have not very

as a rehgioua
and philoso-
ey is meeting
;rage lecturer
le minister of
their faces of
ridiculing the
1 the unholy
le Deity. He
le great ques-
ig the living
the power of
t, deeply im-

nessengers to
be a breaking
Df God's pray-
at the people
as been much
ure with cul-
of conscience
fe, and a tes-
divine reality

'^sore country

l ll i lK W WiiiiWiBgaWliillia i MMI^^

mmmea

Sr!?=*.«jr^'

SCENE ON ROAD TO MAHABELASHUR.
A " Kodak " photograph takeu by Mr. Simpson.

^mm

iiiffiifja';

MADRAS TO ItOMIiAY.

^93

and then up through the South Marathi country to Watiar,
a station in the Krishna Valley, ahout one hundred miles
south of Poona. Here we left the train and took a pony
tonga for forty miles up into the Western Ghauts, tor the
purpose of visiting some dear friends at the lovely mountain
retreat at Mahabelashur, which the American ^')ard has
selected as a summer home for all their missionaries during
the hot season. This delightful spot is situated at the sum-
mit of the Western Ghauts, about 5,U00 feet above the sea.
In the hot season of India, which lasts three months— from
the middle of March to the middle of June, — it is a very de-
lightful residence, the temperature seldom rising above SO
degrees, and the air being most bracing and invigorating.

We cannot agree, for our work at least, with the policy
of planning for a regular suspension of w^ork every hot sea-
son, and surrendering to the heat on merely natural princi-
ples. We believe the power and life of Christ can carry our
dear workers, who trust Him, through hot weather as well
as other trying circumstances, and we feel, while not criticis-
ing the action of other missionaries or societies, that, for our
workers, feeling and believing as they do, it would be losing a
great blessing to make up their minds to the necessity of a
vacation every hot season. At the same time we should have
some cool and quiet place where, in special cases, those who
really need it and are not able to i*ise above the pressure, can
go for a short time.

We' found the drive to Mahabelashur very delightful.
We started at 4 A. M. from the railway station, and, as the

li'l

194 lARCER OUTLOOKS OX MISSTONARY LANDS.

suu rose, we crossed the beautiful river Krishna, and looked
down a long line of temple spires lining its banks, and telling
of the idolatry of heathenism. We found, on calling at the
home of the missionary who occupies this field, that it was,
indeed, the very stronghold of Brahmanism ; but the light of
the Gospel is beginning to penetrate some of the homes. As
we ascended the Ghauts, the vegetation grew more and more
luxuriant. Tlie wild ioses grew in great festoons along the
roadside and climbed up over the trees, hanging in clusters
of a dozen together like great bouquets of pink and crimson.
The highest point is quite thickly wooded with very beauti-
ful trees, and the views are superb.

Our friends took us out to Sidney Point, and we found
ourselves on a narrow promontory of naked rock running out
like a sharp tongue several hundred feet, and not more than
tv/elve wide at the point. On each side was a deep gorge at
least 2,000 feet deep, and on one side it was a perpendicular
cliff; on the other it was almost perpendicular. It made one's
head dizzy to look down those almost fathomless gorges.
We could easily understand how the story might be true that
a young and foolhardy Englishman once presumed to drive his
dog cart out on that narrow ridge one day, and the horse, be-
coming nervous, dashed over the precipice with his reckless
driver into the abyss below. On a clear day you can see the
Indian Ocean across the plain which is about fifty miles wide.
We found our dear friends, the Bruces, in a very pleas-
ant home, and spent some very delightful hours with them.
Mr. Bruce, besides having charge of the great district of Sat-

wmmmimmif!!'B9sa!SSis'9Bimrm

A')- LANDS.

fishna, and looked
banks, and telling
on calling at the
1 field, that it was,
I ; but the light of
>f the homes. As
iw more and more
estoons along the
-nging in clusters
pink and crimson,
with very beauti-

nt, and we found
rock running out
id not more than
LS a deep gorge at
5 a perpendicular
ir. It made one's
ithomless gorges,
light be true that
3umed to drive his
ind the horse, be-
with his reckless
T you can see the
t fifty miles wide.
, in a very pleas-
liours with them,
it district of Sat-

8CENE ON ROAD TO THE GHAUTS.
A " Kodak " photograph taken by Mr. Simpson.

'- fBKES^fflC i^SKf^: -

M.IDRAS TO JlO.VliAy.

195

tara, with a million souls in it, has also a special work of pub-
lication on hand. He has issued many excellent tracts and
books, and has been especially happy in his series of Gospel
leaflets in Marathi. We hope to give our friends, later, a sam-
ple of one of these. It is the verse John iii : 16, in Marathi,
and our missionaries are indebted to him for many thousands
of these, which they distribute freely, as well as many other
tracts and illustrated leaflets which he gratuitously distrib-
utes.

Miss Bruce is assisting her father in this and other liter-
ary work, and is now about to undertake a fiu-ther task in
connection with a monthly Sunday School paper in Marathi,
connected with the work in India. We were delighted to
find her hands and heart so full of bright and blessed work
for God. In addition to her ordinary work, she has just com-
pleted, with the assistance of a friend, a translation of the
"Gospel of Healing " into Marathi.

We found a number of other missionaries also at this
place of rest, and in the evening we had a i^leasant and profit-
able missionary meeting. There were ten members of the
Presbyterian Marathi Mission from the Kolapur field, includ-
ing some old friends. Miss Jefferson, late of the City Mission
at home, and Mr. W^ilder, who is so well known in America
among the Student Volunteers. He has been working among
the students of India and is now in infirm health and resting
at Mahabelashur. We had a blessed meeting and many re-
ceived new inspiration for life and work.

There was much conference respecting the needs of the

^x4JMftM|M|

t »at»CV.'ylTS-^'OJ»Cl.-;Uifc:£lta..^i^«--^

'''^^^'fnimJI

?if?? 'f^ ^5^"^/ ^irt"? %HT} ^Jirflif 3Jr4l ^I'nfti w^ ^tRJifru:
s^iRT ^i4»WM 3rnn^ jijw ^ »Tw'?if vjfri^n''^ <r»rr-

FAC-8IMILE OF A PAQE OF THE "OOSPEL OF HEALINQ,'' IN THE MARATHI LANQUAQE^

r'^'itifriiii

iNMI

WI'ITF

"mm-

^RATHI LANQUAQE.

Bi j 8J.j„la^Ai4J.k»;.!.qtt.s

MAPk'.lS TO JIOM/IAV.

197

field, especially the Marathi country, and we found that there
were yet many great districts even in the south and west,
scores of towns and hundreds and even thousands of villages
tiuit have never yet been visited hy a missionary. Even where
old missions have heen planted for thirty or forty years in
some central city, yet many villages and districts at a dis-
tance from this centre have never been visited. We believe,
after careful inquiry, that of the 15,()()(),()()(> of Marathi people
in Western India, at least one- half are yet beyond the reach
of any means of hearing the Gospel, and we fear this is true
of almost all other parts of India.

We left this lovely mountain top on Saturday morning
at daylight, and after a tonga ride of seven houis and a rail-
way journey of seven more, we reached the beautiful city of
Poona on Saturday evening. We were met at the depot by
Mr. Robinson of the Methodist Episcopal Mission, and Mrs.
Fuller who had come on from Akola for one more season of
fellowship and conference before we left South India.

Mr. Robinson welcomed us most kindly, and we had the
pleasure of addressing his English congregation morning and
evening, and the Native Church in the afternoon through an
interpreter. The Native Church is under the charge of Mr.
Fox, a veteran missionary, and the Boys' School under the
charge of Rev. Mr. Brewer. Mr. Robinson has also charge of
the Wm. Taylor School for the education of English children,
and is, besides, Presiding Elder of the District. He has a fine
English congregation, and the Native Church is very inter-
esting. It was a gi-eat joy to preach the Gospel to these
Hindus and to see some souls decide for Christ.

1:1

I9&

LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

There are two or three other missiotiH in Poona, th«f Eng-
lish Church, the Free Church, and the EtitahUshed Church of
(Scotland ; hut the great heatlien city w still but lightly
touched. It is a city of 12<>,0()<' people, and has many EnghMli
residents, besides many natives who understand Englisii.
Both Mr. Pentecost and Mr. Varley held meetings here for
Bome time which were well attended and nmch interest
shown. Our time did not permit us to meet the native jhjo-
ple, but we were assured that it would not be difticidt at any
time to obtain a good audience, willing to listen to an earnest
address on the Gosi)el.

Poona was the home of one of our former missionaries.
Miss Helen Dawlfy. Many of our friends will remember that
Miss DawUy came out to India in connection with the
Alliance about five years ago, and carried on for some time
an Orphanage in Akola. She was a woman of very strong
and simple faith. When she left Buffalo for India, she bad
only enough money to take her to Liverpool, but she had her
trunk labelled " Bombay," and before she left New York no
less than two people were competing for the privilege of sus-
taining her in India.

About t wo years ago she removed her home to Poona
and resolved to carry on her work indei)endently of the
AiJJANX'E as a work of faith. She did this in the kindest
spirit, and wa.s always on the most friendly terms with our
missionaries. But she felt the Lord was leading her to tru'^l
Him directly for her means of support in the work. During
her residence in Poona she endeared herself to very many,

8l4iujU»M|iua,ltS;< l iBiWfei-»g -^''^^HI

BUi

LANDS.

)onsi, tho Eng-
hotl Church of
II but lightly
many Eiighvsh
>tan<l English,
tings here for
much interest
lie native peo-
lifticult at any
1 to an earnest

' missionaries,
emember that
ion with the
for some time
3f very strong
India, she had
ut she had her
New York no
•ivilege of sus-

ome to Poona
idently of the
in the kindest
erms witli our
ig her to tni^i
vork. D^ ring
to very many,

MADRAS TO /iOM/Liy.

199

and exercised a most blessed Clifistian influence. Hut alK)ut
ten days before we reached India th«? Mast(?r called her to
Himself. Her last illness was very painful ; but, from the
first, she seems to have rxpected to go home, and so ex-
pressed herself to all about her. Hhe passed away in faith
and victory.

POONA.

Thi lady, whom she sent for to England to assist her in
the work, arrived just three days after her death, and so in
God's wise Providence the work was able to go on.

Poona is one of the favorite residences of India. It is on
a high altitude and is never very hot. And during the rainy
season, it is far ■ iumgh from the mountains to escape a heavy

jiniik i i,ij,ii i iii i u i ,uaar»'^'»« p

l»

200 LARGER OUTLOOKS OX MISSIONARY LANDS.

rainfall, so that it has an exceptionally fine dimate, and, like
Bangalore, it is the chosen residence of many foreigners.

The Enghsh (juarter is handsomely built, with wide
streets and spacious grounds, and all the characteristic fea-
tures of an English Canto-inient.

We could not help saying to these de^r English-speaking
people that it was a very awful ]-esponsibility to know the
Gospel and the Saviour, alnd be so near to these multitudes
who know him not. It was our prayer, as we spoke to these
hundreds of young ]>eople, that a score of missionaries might
come out of that company, and that all the rest might live
such lives that from them would " sound out " the Gospel
to all the heathen multitudes of Poona.

We left Poona by daylight Monday morning, and by
eleven o'clock found ourselves once more in Bombay. The
day was spent very busily in getting through a two weeks'
mail, and preparing for another journey that night to North
India. After the days' work was over, and we had taken
Mrs. Fuller to the train for Akola, and once more said
" Good-bye " to our Berar work through her, we had an hour
to spare before sunset, and so we drove along the shore to the
famous Malabar Hill where the wealthy Bombay merchants
reside.

This is the most magnificent drive in the world. For two
or three miles it skirts the Indian Ocean, and then follows the
crest of the hill which is a high peninsula between two arms
of the sea, so that it is constantly exposed to the breeze and
never can be hot. The view from the hill, out upon the sea,

ssss

LANDS.

late, and, like
oreigners.
It, with wide
act eristic fea-

;lish-speaking
' to know the
>se multitudes
spoke to these
onaries might
st might live
" the Gospel

ling, and by
ombay. The
a two weeks'
ight to North
i^e had taken
36 more said
? had an hour
e shore to the
ay merchants

rid. For two
3n follows the
en two arms
e breeze and
upon the sea,

"IT,

*msME^^^

mmmm

tummuM

>!Hi«M«ll| l lllM!

>l<>i»WWWWB!BljHpw ;j]t,,,.^... -.-..4-^1

MADR.IS TO BOMBAY.

201

across the harbor to the Colabba, and theli across tlie plain
over the great city with its superb buildings and its forests
of acacias, palms, banyans, i)lantains, and a wealth of lux-
uriant vegetation, crowded with picturesque houses and
teeming with moving human beings of almost every nation,
and dressed in almost every hue cannot be surpassed by
anything which we have ever seen or expect to see.

As we drove dow n the hill on oiu* way back to the city,
we passed the " Towers of Silence,*" where the rich Parsees
expose their dead, and as we remembered liow much of the
wealth of Bombay is in their hands, and then realized their
end, and saw the very vultures sitting on the trees around
ready for their prey, we felt how little all the pomp and
grandeur of the world was worth without God, and the pre-
cious hopes of the gracious Gospel.

We found the missionary circles in Bombay deeply
stirred with a great controversy.

In P*^ > . 'ler last the Decennial Missionary Conference of
India was ..leld in Bombay, and attended by several hundred
missionaries from various parts of India.

At that Conference much disappointment was felt because
the leaders of the meeting managed to prevent the Confer-
ence from passing any bold or positive resolutions protesting
against the three most crying evils of the land, viz., the
Liquor Traffic, the Opium Traffic, and the Licensing of Social

A'ice.

Meetings were held of an informal character to show
the facts respecting these glaiing evils, but the Convention

■P " !

nxmm

202 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MfSS/CNARY LANDS.

was not allowed to record any definite protest under the pre-
text that these subjects were not included in the programme
laid out at the beginning, and, also, because it was under-
stood that no subject should bo presented about which there
was not perfect unanimity of opinion. By some skillful par-
liamentary management the Conference was led to decline,

THE SACREO COW OF INDIA.

by a vote of 105 to 102, to pass any resolutions or express any
opinion upon these questions.

Their action has awakened a storm of criticism all over
the Christian world, and the missionaries of India are feeling
themselves betrayed into a false position, and a great deal of
strong feeling is being expressed on every side.

*mmmm

hVDS.

der the pre-
program me
was under-
which there
skillful par-
te decline,

express any

3ni all over
I are feeling
reat deal of

GARDEN OF THE TAJ.
A "Kodak" photofrraph taken by >lr. Simpson.

.yfAPR.lS TO liOMliAY.

203

Mr. Dyer, the editor and proprietor of the Bombay (fuar-
dian, was one of the advocates of a bold and uncompromising
stand at the Conference.

Wo beUeve the storm will clear the air, and compel all
true men to speak out on these and all such questions with a
voice which will be felt at the very throne of India and Enj;-
land, and in the heart )f every missionary that is afraid of
offending man more than God, if there l)e such in India,
which may God forbid !

But if there is any difference of opinion among the mis-
sionaries of India on either of these three great questions—
the Liquor Traffic, the Opium Traffic, or the Licensing of
Social Impurity in India, the sooner it is known by the
churches at home the better.

We need not say there is no doubt about tiie attitude of
our dear missionaries on these (piostions, or of any other mis-
sionaries we have met in India.

XIII.

BOMBAY TO BENARES.

"^"^ jTK were able to spend the last two weeks of our brief
W visit to India in the Northwest and Northern Prov-
inces. One object was to see a fesv of the ancient
and characteristic cities, such as Delhi, Agra, I^ucknow,
Cawnpore and Benares, and another was to see something of
the mission work in which God has been so marvelously
pouring out His Spirit in these northern fields.

We selected the western route through the independent
states of Baroda, Guzerat and Kajpootana, passing through
the famous cities of Ahmedabad, Baroda, Ajmeer and Jey-
pore. As we got farther north we found the season much
later than in Central and Southern India. The fields were
green with waving harvests of wheat, and other grains, and
the reapers had only begun, in a few instances, to cut down
the grain. The air became cooler and the nights, indeed,
cold, so that the heaviest covering was needed. Tlie fall of
snow in the northern mountains has been unusually heavy,
and in the whole of India the hot season is a month later than
usual, so that we have almost entirely escaped the oppressive

weather we expected. We cannot sufficiently thank God for

204

of our brief
•thern Prov-
the ancient
, Lucknow,
amething of
marvelously

independent
ing through
er and Jey-
\'ison much

fields were
grains, and
o cut down
lits, indeed,

The fall of
ally heavy,
h later than
9 oppressive
ink God for

w ;''.P''-^^^

^m&g^..

■V

SIDE VIEW OF THE TAJ.
A " Kodak photograph taken by Mr. Simpson.

-^■^m'

His extraordinary goodness
in thus answering prayer,

and enabling us to accomplish so much work without hind-
rance.

^»' ;^,,

MM(SiJ'.''!j«B'a'B''*' "'^' ' '*»*!

206 LARGER Ol^ri.OOKS OX Mrss/ON.IRV LANDS.

Tho Native Princen of India are very st lict in their laws
for the protection of animals, in some cases jirohihiting the
shooting of game and oven the slaughtering of animals for
food, and so, throughout the great State of Iiiij[)ootana, ani-
mal life was very abundant and interesting. Scores of mon-
keys weie hanging from the trees or gamboling over the
ground. Many beautiful birds were constantly appearing,

"i'^x

■ >ii^..

THE FORT, AGRA.

wild peacocks with magnificent tails, great cranes and adju-
tant birds as tall as a man, green parrots, pelicans, jiigeons,
beefsteak birds, immense buzzards, and many pretty little
birds of bright plumage. We saw many herds of deer, and,
occasionally, a wolf or a fox, on the great plains.

Our first considerable stop was at the old city of Agra.

mem-'-'^tm^:

LANDS.

in their laws
roliihiting tlio
•f Jiiiinials for
jpootana, ani-
cori'8 of nion-
ling over the
ly ni)pearing,

les and adju-

ans, pigeons,

pretty little

of deer, and,

city of Agra.

jioArniY TO lu-y.tK'Ks.

207

ThiH wuH one ..f the <apitalH of tlm great Mogul rulers of In-
dia, and is tiie seat of some of their granch-st mo.mniental
huihliugs. The thre.* most famous are the 1<' .:'t, the Palar.-
and the Ta j Mahal. The Fort is an immet. se enclosure of red

MARBLE SCREEN IN THE TAJ, AQRA.

sandstone of the most beautiful and massive proportions.
The Palace of the Emperor, Shah Jehan, is within the Fort
and contains the apartments of his harem, and also the Moti
Musjud or White Mos<iue, of pure white marble. It would

,^^_:.^,,.

2o8 LARGER OnTLOOA'S ON MrSSWX.IRV I..INDS.

be idle to attempt to give an)- descrijjtion of these immense
collections of stately columns, arches and carvings.

The gem of Agra and India, however, is the Taj Mahal,
which stands on the Jumna, about a mile above Agra, and
was built by Shah Jehan, as a monument and tomb for his
favorite wife. It is of pure white marble elegantly propor-
tioned and exquisitely carved. It stands in the midst of a
magnificent garden filled with luxuriant trees and flowers,
and adorned with artificial tanks and ponds filled with water.
It has been called a " Dream in Marble, "and its exquisite and
dazzhng beauty has not been overstated. It took seventeen
years to build it, and it cost §0,000,000. All it contains is
two beautiful marble toml)s, those of Shah Jehan and his fa-
vorite wife, Arimand Banu, for whom it was reared. There
is a touch of romance about it that lights up a little the
cruelty and selfishness of this Mogul tyrant. He must have
had some kind of a heart to devote so many years of his life
and such millions of treasure to one he loved. And yet, it
was a sensual and selfish love, for you can see the gorgeous
palace he also built for his Hindu wives, and the gorgeous
apartments in another part of the Fort for his Mohammedan
queens, with all their separate establishments and mosques
for worship.

The blot on all this grandeur is the fact that scarcely any
of this costly work was ever paid for, the poor natives never
having received more than a mere pittance of their promised
wages. It was surely a just retribution for this proud and
splendid despot, that he spent the last seven years of his life

mammmmam

INDS.

Bse immense

3 Taj Mahal,
e Agra, and
tomb for his
ntly propor-
le midst of a
and flowers,
with water,
xquisito and
k seventeen
. contains is
1 and his fa-
ired. There
a little the
3 must have
rs of his life
And yet, it
le gorgeous
he gorgeous
)hammedan
id mosques

icarcely any
itives never
sir promised
1 proud and
'8 of his life

a:
a

<
1-

I
I-

iiwwiwwwi iftiMii i itwiftWMijytw^ '•

n t gg0^ l^ mi t^ ^^fM ll i t ^'s ,t t/f ,,l..

BOMBAY TO JIEX.IRF.S.

209

<
cc
o

<
I-

I-

as a prisoner in his own palace,nnder th(3 cruel orders of liis son .
They showed us the marble cage where he used to sit looking
out over the valley at the beautiful Taj, where the only thing,
which, perhaps, he had ever loved, lay buried, and where he
himself ere long lay down by her side.

DELHI.

More magnificent, however, even than Agra, are the
ruins and monuments of Delhi, which we were permitted to
visit two days later. Delhi was the real capital of the great
Mogul Empire, and when the Reformation was beginning to
dawn in Europe, the great Mohammedan conquerors of India

2IO LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

were building- up an empire here as splendid as Babylon ever
knew.

The fort and palace of Delhi are similar to those of Agra,
but much more magnificent. The Pearl Mosque, the Hall of
Audience in the Emperor's Palace, and the great drawing-

HUMAYAN'8 TOMB, DELHI.

room in the Queen's apartments contain a wealth of marble,
gold and precious stones perfe Jy bewildering. The decora-
tions are gorgeous beyond description, but the design is so
simple and beautiful that nothing seems overdone. The ceil-
ings are finished in marble and gold, the pillars are each one
piece of marble, as smooth as alabaster, and carved in the

' LANDS.

IS Babylon ever

those of Agra,
jue, the Hall of
great drawing-

alth of marble,
;, The decora-
be design is so
lone. The ceil-
rs are each one
. carved in the

BOMBAY TO BENARES.

211

finest designs The marble is inlaid with rare precious stones
representing scroi:3, flowers, birds, animals and Arabic verses
from the Koran. Between the apartments are screens repre-
senting the finest lace, all cut in marble, each stitch of the
lace work costing one doUar to carve. It was of this exqui-

ENTRANCE TO THE GRAND MOSQUE, DELHI.

site chamber that the Persian poem was composed, the refrain

in English being :

"And oh, ir mere db au jai^siu^* ^a v^.»..,
It is this, It is this."

And yet as we turned away, and thought of the wretched
builder now, and all the deceived companions of his luxurious
pleasures, we could honestly say that we have seen some
Hindu huts of clay which we would not exchange-with

.«^8!SW*»»W '"

312 LARGER OUTLOOA'S OX .V/SSro.W I AT /..LY/lS.

their humble, happy ( Jhristiau liearts- for all his splendor,
even for a hundred Ijfetivaes,

But the most in ferttvlinp part of Delhi is its ancient
ruins. South of. the irsodern city tiu tlu^ ruins of no less than

se-ven ancient cities,

extending twelve
miles south along the
Jumna, and covering
an area of nearly fifty
square miles. We
drove out eleven miles
to the famous Kutub
Minar, and all along
the way there was
nothing to be seen but
the ruins of temples,
tombs, and ancient
fortifications ; some
of them — for example,
Asoka's column and
the famous Wrought
Iron Pillar — g o i n g
back to a period even before the time of Christ. Delhi has
been well called the Rome of Asia, and it also reminded us,
not a little, of ancient Memphis with its tombs and monu-
ments of ancient kings and departed grandeur.

The most remarkable of all these ancient monuments is
the famous Kutub Minar, or Tower of Victoiy. It stands

KUTUB MINAR, NEAR DELHI.

'^^'^'^'i M^.MaifeakHafiBMBa^Jaa s B^^

.■L\7)S.

his splendor,

3 its ancient
' no U'ss than
iciont cities,

i n g twelve
ith along the
md covering
f nearly fifty

miles. We

eleven miles

mens Kutub

id all along

there was
be seen but

of temples,
nd ancient
ons ; 8 o m e
for example,
column and
us Wrought
lar — g o i n g
. Delhi has
eminded us,

and monu-

lonuments is
f. It stands

FRONT VIEW OF THE TAJ AQRA,
A " Kodak" photograph taken by Mr. Simpson.

i i iiiniiJiuiii. i i' i »i*Mi'iULMaiun i

liOMIiAY TO KENAKr.S.

213

elm-pii milos Houth of inodcru Delhi, at the southoni end of

this great plain of ruins. It was the first great niouunieut

built by the Mogul con(iuerors of India, and goes back to the

sixteenth century. It is in almost perfect preservation. It is

an inunense tower of several stories, 47 feet in diameter at

the base, and rising 24(> feet high. To our eye it is more im-

l)ressive than the Pyramids, and very beautiful in its design

and execution.

There is a stair- _ > - --

way leading to

the top and the

view is very

fine.

In the even-
ing we drove
ve r all the
scenes of the
Indian Mu-
tiny. Wo stood
on tlie famous
ridge where

the British siege lines were posted. We entered the Cashmere
Gate, where the storming party of English soldiers broke
through the walls and planted the flag of victory, where
fifty out of every seventy-five fell bleeding and dying under
the murderous fire of the foe, and the noble leader, Gen.
Nicholson, was carried back to die just as he had won the
costly victory which saved India. We gazed on the splendid

CHANONI CHANK, MAIN STREET, DELHI.

•I

314

LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

monument coinmemomting these lieroic achievements, and
tolling how nion th.m :],0o(> brave men fell m this desperate
struggle. And we thought how much it Juid (;o9t England
to gain India, and how greatly the obligation wart enhanced

to make the mont
of this great trust
for God.

In the same circle
of ( ities we also in-
( 1 u d e d Cawnpore
and Lucknow. Both
the^ cities have a
pathetic interest in
connection with the
Mutiny. Cawnpore
was the scene of
the most awful
tr.igedy of modern
war. viz., " " las-
sacre of th< I'liish
garri ' by the in
earn ohend Nann

MEMORIAL AT CAWNPO; SahlU, aft ^i"

had surreudereU «
hi.' issuranr of protection. After he had mi dered all the
men, he took the women and chil en capti i' f ' ir a fate more
cruel than death, and when he found that tli' city was about
to Ic recaptured, he murdered them also, and cast the bodies

ANDS.

vements, aud
this desperate
(^ost England
^•art enhanced
ike the mont
8 great trust
id.

le same circle
38 we also in-
e d Cawnpore
icknow. Both
cities have a
jic interest in
ition with the
y. Oawnpore
the scene of
most awful
[y of modern
n-i.., ''^" las-
>f tht i'iiish
by the in
e hend Nana
afl 'i8y

irrendercu

dered all the
>r a fate more
ity was aboiit
ast the bodies

liOMIiAY TO lit: S ARKS.

2^5

of the dead and the living together into a great well, where
a Memorial now stands with this inscription : "Sacred to
the perpetual niemory of a great conjpany of Christian peo-
pie, chiefly women
and children, who
near this spot were
cruelly massacred
by the followers of
the rebel, Nana Sa-
hib, and cast, the
dying with the
dead, into the well
below, July 15,
1857."

Lucknow stands
about seventy miles
north of Cawnpore.
It is the largest city
of Northern India,
except Calcutta, and
well called —"Beau-
tiful Lucknow." It
is, indeed, a most
charming city. The
English section,

known as the "Residency Hill," is very handsome, and even
the native city is pretty and picturesque. Seen from the old
Residency Tower, it is a great sea of green trees and fields set

NANA SAHIB.

2i6 i.ARai.R orri.oois ox ynssioxARv lands.

with white «lome8, roofs, and iiiinaiots, fur miltvs and niiloB.
U is full of niosqiu.'H and tempi. h. But -aftor its MisHionH—
its most interesting s,ene8 are those connected with the Mu-
tiny.

( )ur kiii.l friends took us over all th. ground, so familiar
to us in our boyhood, thirty six years aj^o, when these events

PALACE ON THE QUMTI, LUCKNOW.

were thrilling our hearts, where Lawrence, Havelock and Sir
Colin Cam pl)ell so nobly fought for the "K.<lief of Lucknow,"
where the brave defenders-a few hundivd m.n-so grandly
held their ground against an aimy of tens of thousands of
Sepoys with batteries of artillery, whom they themselves had
drilled and taught.

KBi

ile« and miloB.
ita Mi.sHions — .
with tho Mu-

id, HO familiar
n these events

^elock and Sir
3f Luck now,"
II— so grandly
thousands of
leniselves had

.nayfe^ji ' .

/t0.t//l.n- TO HEN.IRF.S.

217

The old Hi'sideney, which wuh their fortific.t'i; n and de-
fence, 18 now a Park, and the old ImildingH stand an they
■were, at the dose of the Mutiny, a mass of battered ruins.
It was simply awful co look at those great towers and walls,
literally torn to pieces hy shot and shell, and realize that two
or three regiments of soldiers, with a lot of women and chil-

THE BRITISH RESIDENCY BEFORE THE MUTINY.

dren, had lived behind those walls for months during the fiery
heat of an India Sumrnei-, and under a ceaseless rain of fire
from hundreds of guns.

We saw the cellar where General Lawrence was mor-
tally wounded by a shell. We saw the other cellar where all
the children and women huddled together foi- months. They
nhowed us the hole by which their meals were handed down,

LARGE A' OrriAlOKS ON iVISSIONAKY LANDS.

and another hole a foot in diameter where a cannon ball had
entered even that cellar and sunk itself in a brick pillar out
of sight, and a poor woman sitting near had died of fright.
The tower above was literally perforated with balls.

Most touching of all were the figures telling how out of
:^,000 men that begun that awful summer only 830 survived
when the victory was won. These, indeed, were heroes.
Why may not the missionary, annals have greater heroes ? If
brave men suffered so to win India for England, let us not be
afraid to suffer in order to win India for Christ.

Well, we are glad to say that Lucknow has something
better than the old Residency and the memorials of 1857. It
has a glorious missionary work, and is the headquarters of
that Mission of our own laud on which God has so won-
drously be on pouring out His Spirit during the past four
years.

We were very cordially received by Rev. Dr. Parker and
the members of the Mission, and afforded every opportunity
to see the work and learn the methods which God has so
richly blessed among them, during recent years. We have
not yet found a more thoroughly organized missionary sys-
tem, or one more vigorously and efficiently worked. The sys-
tem is true to the genius of Methodism, and yet it has a cer-
tain apostolic simplicity and catholicity of spirit which may
well commend it to the study of every missionary who is in-
telligently seeking for the best methods, and willing to learn
from every wise and true pattern.

At the head of the whole work is the Bishop, or general

OS.

I ball had
sillar out
3f fright.

>w out of
survived
e heroes,
eroes ? If
us not be

Dmething
1857. It
larters of
; so won-
past four

,rker and
[.)ortunity
)d has so
We have
nary sys-
The sys-
as a cer-
lich may
'ho is in-
to learn

r general

BOMBAY TO BEXARES.

219

^^^^^^ilA'fM^^^^

RUINS OF THE SIEGE OF LUCKNOW.

overseer of the whole field. Then over each District is a Pre-
siding Elder, who exercises a more special superintendence
over all the workers in that field. Under him, the various
American or English workers have their respective depart-
ments. Some are Pastors of the P^nglish Church in the Dis-

2 20 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

trict. Some are Superintendents or Professors in the Train-
ing College or Seminar3^ Some are teachers in the High
School for boys or girls. Some have charge of an Orphanage
or a Home. And some are evangelists, at large, to preach
the gos])el in ^'arious places. But each has a special depart-
ment. And .vhen they are scattered about in various cen-
tres, one of them is usually local Superintendent of all the
work in that city and section.

Then come the native workers. And this is the right
arm of the Methodist Mission. There are, comparatively,
few American workers even in the great Provinces of Oude
and Rohilcund and amongst a church of more than fifty
thousand native Christians. Most of the work is done by
hundreds of native brethren, and the American worker is
chiefly a superintendent. There are several classes of these
native workers. One or two have been found worthy to be
made Presiding Elders. Many of them are Native Pastors,
having charge, in almost all cases, of the native churches.
Some of them are Evangelists, preaching the gospel in the
villages. The Native Pastors receive a moderate salary of
about |r)0 to ^75 per year

But there is another class of native workers which more
than any other seems to us to be a recovered link in the great
chain of personal work, and this is the agency to which more
than any other, it seems to us, that, under God, the extra-
ordinary success of this Mission is due. They are what they
call " Pastor teachers," a sort of intei'mediate link between
the Native Pastor and the heathen people. They are hum-

STTSS?

NDS.

I the Train-
n the High
Orphanage
!, to preach
cial depart-
.^arious cen-
t of all the

s the right
iparatively,
es of Oude

than fifty
is done by

worker is
es of these
jrthy to be
i^e Pastoi's,
! churches,
spel in the
e salary of

i^hich more
n the great
v'hich more
the extra-
vvhat they
k between
T are hum-

BOMRAV TO IiEXAR/':S.

221

ble men, of limited abiUty and experience, but sincere Chris-
tians full of zeal and new-born love. And they are set to
work in hundreds of places, with a very small allowance of
115 to -«^20 a year, as teachers in hundreds of little country
villages.

The place they
hold their school in
is a little hut (and
we saw some of
them), that can be
rented for a mere
trifle. It has, per-
haps, no windows
and only a clay
floor and mud walls.
But in this place the
teacher opens a lit-
tle school for the
boys and girls, and
begins to teach
them all he knows
He is not very

far on, but he is a good way beyond them. And his
principal class is the Bible, and the Gospels. And so he
teaches, and when he can get some of the parents to come
in, he preaches to them, and his simple kindness wins the
confidence of old and young, and before long there are in-
quirers, and conversions, and baptisms.

GATEWAY, LUCKNOW.

222

I./IJ^aER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

This simple network of schools and native evangelists
has gradually spread over all the Northwest Provinc! o^

the LTof :f "' 'l"" """ """^ •"*" ^^^»- «Pi-"«aliCo
«.e part of the workers, and a very real outpouring of the

Holy Ghost on many hearts. The result is that during the

pas two or three years there has been a great ingatheringo

uls and more than fifty thousand have been added to the

church by baptism. The additions have not been so sudden

Zlu\ ""t ™"«" '^^•'^' ""' t"" -™^- ha"

fs like^t!'™ '" " T ^""'' '™ *" '"'^''^^"-^ -- that it
s hkely prove, not a special and sporadic movement, but

IZ : r'^f"""""""'^'' "'^'^ ™^ agencies 'th^
are hkely to contnme bnnging forth sue,, fruit without in-
rrupfon. We were glad to find that similar revivals IZ
still gomg on m many of the churches

Another interesting feature of this Mission is the impor.
t^t,on of the Camp Meeting into the heathen field. ZZ
.t was here before, but they have consecrated it to a higte
and hoher use. The heathen a.. ve,y fond of holding whl
they cab Malas or rehgious festivals, and gathering iL.'a
crowds ma g™ve to celebrate the p^ses of some god The
m,ss>ona„.s have be.n holding their ^a^o., too, and as many
as two thousand people have sometimes attended them t
cudmg many heathen, and there have been great numC
of conve:.,o„s, just as in our g..at meetings ft home Wl
were very much pleased to find these simple, troe and agJL
B.ve methods in this good work, and we ax^e sure thaTfTb
work must be blessed and can only pray that God m2y ^^
tiply it more and more. ^

^•5K»aflK||m^iiaM^""*''

-~WP:

ANDS.

^Q evangelists
Provinces of
spirituality on
During of the
it during the
igathering of
added to the
3n so sudden
imbers have
8 are that it
)vement, but
tgencies that
'> without in-
evivals were

s the impor-
Id. Indeed,
i to a higher
olding w^hat
ing in great
e god. The
nd as many
'd them, in-
at numbers
lome. We
ind aggres-
3 that such
1 may mul-

BOMBAY TO BENARES.

223

Of course, these friends have the advantage, that we do
not yet possess, of a strong force of native converts to draw
their workers from. This is the result of an experience of
more than forty years. Until we can raise up this force from
among our own converts, we must depend chiefly upon our
American missionaries as pioneers ; but, as their work is
blessed, we are sure that they will not be ashamed to copy
the example of our friends in their grand use of every kind
A native material, even the very humblest. While we hope
to see the churches of America still pour thousands of vi'orkers
into this land, yet the real work of v^inning and holding
India for Jesus must ultimately be done by the people of
India themselves.

We spent a deligatful day with Dr. Parker and the mis-
sionaries at Lucknow. We learned much of the history and
geography of the field, and the methods of the work. We
saw most of the leading workers at Lucknow, and more de-
voted and large-hearted men and women we do not know.
We visited the excellent High School and College. We had
the pleasure of addressing the English Church in their com-
modious building, and meeting Rev. Mr. Osborne, who was
holding revival services there. Mr. Osborne is a native of
India and a man of much spiritual power.

On the following Saturday and Sabbath at Bareilly, we
saw still more of the work. At the hospitable home of Dr.
Scott, we learned much from his experience as an old pioneer
on the frontiers of the field. We met the students of the
Theological Seminary of vrhich he has charge, and were de-

224 I-ARCER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

lighted with these sixty-five native young men who reminded
us so much of our own work at home. We visitt-i tlie girls'
Ori)hanage and Schools, and hrighter, sweeter faces we never
saw than these two Imndred dear Rohilcund girls.

We had the joy of preaching the gospel through an in-

HOU8E8 IN RAJPOOTANA.
A ' ' Kodak " photogrraph taken by Mr. Simpson.

terpreter, and of seeing two souls come out and receive bap-
tism. And on Sabbath evening, our last Sabbath in India,
we spoke once more for the Master to the English congrega-
tion in Bareilly, and although the company was not a great
one, the Lord was present, and souls were, we beUeve, blessed
and brought very near to Him. It was a blessed day, indeed

IJVDS.

lo I'eininded
f '1 the girls'
es we never

ceive bap-
i in India,
congrega-
ot a great
re, blessed
ly, indeed

BOMBAY TO BExWAfiliS.

225

a blessed series of days— our visit to the M. E. Mission of
Lucknow and Bareilly.

Nor must we forget Delhi, or the dear missionary that
came to see us and spent an hour wuth us before wo left, and
told us with mutual joy of the five hundred souls that he had
been permitted to gather from among the heathen during the

past year.

We were so glad to leave our India work and our brother,
Mr. Fuller, in touch with this blessed Mission, and we were
also much gratified to be able to gain much valuable informa-
tion respecting openings on the frontier of Nepaul and Thibet
—one of the chief objects for which we had come to North
India. But we shall speak more fully of this again.

It was a disappointment not to meet our dear friend and
former guest, Miss Anna Buddin, but her field is so remote, on
the frontier of Nepaul and Thibet and six days' journey from
Bareilly. that there was not time for her to get down ; but
we heatd many cheering things of her brave and blessed work,
and had a very kind telegram from her. We were glad to be
assured that should we be led to send our workers to these
frontier fields, the old standard bearers at <^he front woukl be
gli>,a Ic greet them and cheer them on their way.

There are other excellent Missions in Northern India.
Tht Presoyi;iiiians are in the Punjaub and Rajpootana. But
i; -u as impossible for us, in the short time at our disposal, to

go there also.

We left Bareilly for Benares early Monday morning, and
spent most of the day in the old capital of Hinduism. Be-

■

I, '

h^i

■ 4

Ir- -- --

nOMBAY TO BENARES.

227

:>m^^:.-

v-C

UJ
(0

nares is the ancient home of the founder of Buddhism, and
the Sacred City of the Hindus. We had read niuch of the
Gauges and its temples, and we expected nmch that would, at
least, interest us. But never did we meet with a more heart-
sickening disa])pointment. Some one has said tlie place to
read "The Light of Asia" is Benares. We should think it is.

If any one
v/ishes to see the
hoUowness, fool-
ishness and filthi
ness of Hinduism
and heathenism,
let him look
through the Ben-
ares temples on
the Ganges.
There are hun-
dreds of them,
and we saw the
most of them and
the hest of them
but they were all
disappointingand
disgusting. The
first was their
famous " Golden
Temple," but it
was full of filthy mosque of aurunqzub, benares.

328 LAfiGiiR orn.ooKs o,y uissioiv.i/^y lands.

cows, and naked prio^ts, and obscene images and foi ! Brnell*?,
and the wtr.Hjts arouj I i( were crowded with bazaars BolUnJ
thousands of objects of re ious worship, that n< lecent man
or woman could touch or 1< )k at.

The next was th. famous ^^ ikey Temple, ai 1 it was

Httle bntter. The
god and i^fviipss at
the ontrui. ; are
obj(cifc, of terror,
and the monkeys
that (tirouged it
and fed on the
weetmeats ( iTered
the worslsippers
were by far
best looking
best dressed people
around.

The next was
the Nepaulese Tem-
ple, the gift of a
Prince of Nepaul,
and the carvings
were too vile and
obscene to look at,
far less describe.
The cattle were al-
lowed to frequent

THE MONKKY TEMPLE.

'..INDS.

<1 foil fimells,
azaars selling
o decent man

0, ail it was
better. The
id gf) ""'less at
ntran* (3 are
> of torror,
le monkeys
thronged it
ed »n the
leats oifered
worsliippors
:)y far
ooking
essed people

3 next was

)aule8e Tem-

gift of a

of Nepaul,
le carvings
oo vile and

to look at,
3 describe,
le were al-
io frequent

noMn.iY TO iU':N.iA'f-:s.

229

the temples a i objects of worship, and even the manure

that pollutrd 1 1 -loor was treasured as a satred thing. The
l^eople were bathing in the Ganges, but, side by side, others
were wasliing their dirty clothes in the same stream they
worshipped. The river front did not even have the merit of
architectural beauty. It is an old tnmble-down atlnir. with
a f'"^' striking old towers and spires.

i t this -
duistn.
whole
down

was vi-

this VI. vvor-
ing down.
Pilgrims are
tinually t o
nable shrines,
men, women
are worship-
themostinde

ON THE GANGES.

a tyi)eof Hin-
g 1 a d the
is breaking
alas ! there
deuce that
ship is break -
Thousands of
coming con-
these abomi-
Millions o f
and children
ping as divine
cent and ob-

scen(> things. The very instincts uf nature seem to have been
perverted and destroyed, and they take pleasure in things
that seem to us to have no interest or charm, but are utterly
depressing, revolting and hideous. This is the saddest thiu^
about heathenism. It is so lost that it does not even know
how lost it is. Well, we are glad we saw Benares and Bareilly.
One is the heaven side of India, the other the side that takes
hold on hell. God help us speedily to lift this sunken laud
from liell to heaven 1

XIV.

PROM THE HIMALAYAS TO THE HOOQHLY.

LKAVINO Bonares at sunset, a n,l„ „f WKhteen hours
took „„ „„w„ the valley of the (iangex to Sahehgange

fl„„f ?' " ™''^ *""""''"' "*■• ""'' '«• «» through th„
finest cou„t,.y «■„ have yet see,, i„ l,„„a. The whole fandl
irr.^te,l, and it looks like a tropical gai-den.

The fields a,e cut up into little sections about flftv feet
square ,epa,-ated by a little ridge of sand to hold th, wate^

btr^il'TV''™^' '■''''"• ''*™'"*'"''-«-'^"'-
gold Some of the harvests were while and wavinst like
great baune,,ot gold. Many were green and of ever; sha
Th,ckly dotted .n every di,-ection, and often clustered in pi
u,esque groups, we.« myriads of ,„ango fee.,, their foliage
so nch and dense that no sunbea,n can .strike through, i^!
ests of the hnest palms waved on every side

U. H*^"*r '"' ™"" "^ * -nagniflcent banyan .spreading wide

ft^t ,« • " ""T'^ ""■"'«'>' "P '"'» "•« "«» Bky with

Its tuft of wav,ug b,anches gathered at the ton. It is 1

St th '! °' "' '"'°^™- '" «"- "o""- with the ^nt
nght^u, the boson, of its vast t,.nnk, the banyan liteLly

tL:

30GHLY.

igliteen hours
) Haht'hgange.
H through th.-
whole land is

)out fifty feet
d t ho waters ;
;reat chocker-
>f greon and
waving Hke
every shade,
tered in pic-
their fohage
"ough. For-

reading wide
nk a stately
lue sky with
op. It is a
th the pahn
'an literally

.._ .rfjlB*-

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-S)

f/.

s-j

1.0

I.I

Ui|2£ |2.5

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2.2

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■a

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1.8

L25 IIIU I .6

HiotDgrapJiic

Sciences

Coiporation

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23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716) 872-4503

''I

,.<;'

CIHM/ICMH

Microfiche

Series.

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Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques

Jh'OM l III: HI. U. ILA) AS TO THE IIOOCIIL Y. 2 3 1

throwing its arris around it and embracing it in its bosom—
a sublime tigure of loveliness in the arms of strength, or gen-
tleness combined witli power.

The shade trees of India are made for the climate. Then-
foliage is impenetrable by the fiery sun, and every field has
its natural protection from the deadly stroke of that heat
which no one can understand who has not felt it. The ban-
yan is one of the finest, and often sends down its branches
to form dozens of new trunks and take fresh root in the soil.

The
mango is
not only

a tree of

sur p a s s-

ing beau

t y and

g r a c e ,

very

much like

our rock

A LANDING PLACE ON THE GANGES.

maple, but much finer ; it also bears a splendid fruit—
the typical fruit of India, and one unsurpassed by any in
the world, combining, perhaps, the best qualities of the
psi^ch and the pear, but much richer than either. The fig
tree grows everywhere, especially on the hills, and the fruit
is now in its perfection. One variety of it is " The People
Tree," which is worshipped everywhere. Then there are
plantains, guavas and scores besides, bearing excellent fruit.

232

j.ARaF.n orri.ook's ox j\/rsswxAF?y lands.

The bananas of India are much superior to ours. The small
ones have a i)fculiar flavor as if tliey had been cooked and
sweetened, and liave none of tlie dryness and harshness of
the American fruit.

But the queen of
India's trees is the
palm, Tln-ee varieties
grow heie. The date
palm is quite common.
The cocoanut palm is
seen in considerable
quantities in Bombay,
Madras and elsewhere.
The most common is
the Palmyra palm,
which the natives tap
to make an intoxicat-
ing drink called
toddy. You can see
an earthen pot hang-
ing from the to]) of
most of tliem, and a
native climbs the tree
night and morning to
gather and replace the pots. The tree is always beautiful
and makes almost any scene a picture of grace and loveliness.
At Sahebgange we left our train and sailed up the
Ganges for an hour or more, to connect with the train run-

A HIMALAYAN PASS.

A'ns.

FROM Till-: IIIMAI.A Y IS TO THE liOOCIII. Y

233

The small
cooked and
larshness of

queen of
?es is the
ee varieties
The date
te commcn.
lut palm is
■onsideiable
in Bombay,
I elsewhere,
common is
yia palm,
natives tap
1 intoxicat-
\k called
)u can see

pot hang-
the top of
lem, and a
lbs the tree
morning to
>^s beautiful
1 loveliness,
led up the

train run-

iiing northward to our destination in the Himalaya :iTo'tn-

tains.

It was an interesting sail on the ancient river, with its
sandy shores audits broad expanse, diversified here and there
by the strangest looking old ships we ever saw, drawn by
Cooli(>s on the banks by means of a long rope from the mast-
head. At length Ave disembai'ked and took the train north-
ward to Siliguri at the base of the Himalaya Mountains.

Then began an eight hours" journey which we shall ever
remember with intense vis^idness and !)leasure. It was the
ascent of tlie Himalayas by rail. It was not a long ride,
only fifty miles, but it took us all day to go these fifty miles,
and, at no time, could the engine exceed seven miles an hour.
In these fifty miles we ascended nearly S,(»00 feet, or more
than a mile and a half, and the grade, at some points, was
as steep as one foot in twenty. We have had a good many
mountain climbs and mountain \iews, the Alps, the Kes-
wick liills, Ben Lomond and the Scottish Mountains, the
Whi+e Mountains, the peaks and passes of the Itockies, the
'■■ .rras, and the beautiful Coast Range, and yet more lately
the terrific gorges of the Ghauts at Mahabelashur and Sidney
Point,— and we have often accepted the old refrain as indis-

imtable :

" Mont Blanc is the monarch of mountains ;
They crowned him long ago
On a throne of rock 'noath a dome of cloud,
With a diadem of snow."

But Mont Blanc must yield the diadem to Kinchin junga,

and the old Himalayas claim the unapproachable i)re-emi-

"ip^

234 LARGER OUTLOOKS OS' MISSIONARY LANDS.

nence. Never before have we been quite satisfied with a
mountain view. It has always been to us a httle less than
our ideal. We have always been looking for something that
was really above the clouds.

But as we stood the following morning, nearly 8,000 feet

MOUNT EVEREST, FROM OARJEELING.

above the sea, at Ghoom, and looked down into the abyss a
mile and a half below us, and then up to the snow-crowned
peaks that towered /our w?7e.s' aftore even the heights where
we were standing, we were satisfied ; imagination and mem-
ory had fovmd a resting place at last for the vision of earthly
majesty. Some day we hope to gaze upon the Hills of God
and the Throne above the clouds, but earth can have few

YDS.

led with a
5 h'ss than
Jthing that

' 8,000 feet

le abyss a
w^-crowned
;hts where
and meni-
of earthly
:ills of God
have few

FROM Till: IllMAL. I )'- /> TO Till. IIOQi.lll Y.

235

suLlimer visionH than these majestic depths of mist, and
domes of eternal snow. Kinchin junga and Everest, the two
highest peaks visible from Darjeeling, are about 'J!>,()0() feet
high, or more than two miles liigherthan Mont Blanc, or the
peaks of the Rocky Mountains— or even the Sierras.

The most remarkable featuie of these vast mountains is
the abrui)tness of their rise. You are approaching the; Rocky
Mountains for miles, and when their peaks come into view
you are already 5,000 feet above the sea, and they are only
about 10,000 above you. But the Himalayas rise like a great
perpendicular wall directly from their base. You travel
along a level plain right up them, and their great, huge
shoulders begin to emerge from the horizon before you have
reached an elevation of 50O feet. Ghoom itself, which is
nearly S,000 feet high, is not twenty-five miles in a straight
line from the plain, although it takes fifty miles of winding
through the valleys to reach it.

The objective point of our journey was Darjeeling, a hill
station, and the terminus of the Darjeeling and Himalayan
Railway. It was built as a military station and summer
health resort, and is removed far above the heat of the India
sum' 'r. The railroad has been open for ten years and it is
a marv. 1 of engineering skill. It is interesting to watch its
windings around the hills and its zig-zags up the mountain
sides. Sometimes it runs round the same hill in a spiral, as-
cending course several times ; sometimes it reverses and
switches back and then forward several times in a zig-zag
course up the hill-side. Talk of the famous " Horseshoe

236

/../A'o7;a' 0/ 7 /.(>() a:s ox m/ss/ox.ia')' r.A.vns.

Ciirvt)" of i\w Allf'ghcnies. why, this little track somotimes
runs round a i)orf»'(;t circle of loss than a hundred feet, and
(losses itself, until the front and rear cars form a semicircle.
The ganj;(! is only two feet wide and twists about like an
elastic little sei-jjent.

Of course, the views as you ascend are vtny fine. Often
you look down a pei'ijendicnlar cliflf into a gorge one thou-
sand feet dee]). N'alley after valley si)reads out before you as

you a s-
cend, and
the d i 8-
t.int plain
and the
rive r
w i n d
thro ugh
it until all
are lost in
the dim
distance ; while above you new heights tower up, and each
elevation is only a foot-hill for some grander peak.

Tlie vegetation is very fine. After we had got uj) a few
hundred f(>et we got into the first forests we had seen in India.
The thing most noticeably absent in this land is forest tree^'.
There are plenty of small trees, but the great giants of the
forest— trees from sixty to one hundred and fifty feet high—
we have nowhere seen, except in the Himalayas. But here
they are in all their glory, vying with the hills for immensity,—

A HIMALAYAN PEAK.

yps.

FROM THE HIM ALA YAS TO THE HOOGHL K 237

: Koniotimos

(1 foot, a!ul

8eniicircl(i.

imfc like an

ine. Often
s one thon-
ifoie you as
y o 11 as-
cend, and
<li(; d i 8-
tant plain
and t li e
rive r
w i n d
through
it luitilall
are lost in
the d i ni
p, and each

)t uj) a few
ion in India,
'crest treef*.
ants of the
feet high—
. But here
iimensity, —

great t o a k
trees with
leaves a foot
in diameter,
mahogany
tr(!es, the sil-
ver ilex, the
hanyan and
others we did
not know.
Then the
vinos and
creepers were
still fi n o r.
Immense
parasites like
grape vines
ran up the
trunks of the
trees for one
hundred feet,

and then

threw down a

whole n e t-

w o r k o f

streamers and vines, and covered the forest with a wealth of

foliage and bloom. Sometimes they would be interlaced

around the tree in a thousand cross lines until it looked like

SCENE IN THE HIMALAYAS.

238 LARGEK OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

a web of white lace acrosp a clotli of ^rccn. Sometimes one
groat vine, with ir inoiiBe pahii like leaveH, would wiiul itself
aiound a tje«' in regulai- spiral ciiive all the way up. until it
litoked like some great pillar deeurate<l with a wreath oC palm.
Sometitnes the creeper would throw a great string of im-
mense white blossoms and fasten it to some more distant tree,
until it hung like a great festoon of flowers, as if for some
high festival.

Many of the trees were in bloom. There is one very
beautiful tree in the India foi'c^sts, that has no leaves but is
c()V(;red coin|)letely ovei' with immense scarlet flowers, and it
looks just like a blaze of flame. There are many of these in
the Himalayan valleys and they light up the landscape with
great pictures(pienoss. There are many fine ferns all along
the road, and after we reached the 4,oo() feet line we found a
great many innnense tree ferns of exceeding grace and beauty,
some of them twenty to thirty feet high.

But the prettiest things were the tea plantations. There
were a few at the base, but as we reached an elevation of
4,0()(» to 5,000 feet they covered all the hillsides with their
beautiful rows of brilliant green. The plant has a hard and
brilliant leaf of dark green with a very close compact habit
of growth, and looks very much like the boxwood w^hich we
use for garden borders. It grows as a compact little bush,
about two feet high. They are planted in rows about two
feet apart, and a dozen plantations spread over several miles
of hills and valleys. With the long rows stretching up the
mountains, winding like emerald rings around the hilltops,

■^~j

LANDS.

ornotimes one
lid wind itsolf
ly lip, until it
icath ol' palm,
string of im-
e distant tree,
18 if for some

e is one very
leaves but is
luvvyrs, and it
ly of those in
indscape with
iins all along
le we found a
:!e and beauty,

itions. There
1 elevation of
les with their
as a hard and
ompact habit
ood which we
ct little bush,
V8 about two
several miles
ching up the
i the hilltops,

iRo.y I III: HIM. II.. n . is /< > i iii: inn x.iii. y.

239

and tlu' wliite zig/Jig i)aths cut ihiough tlwui up and down
llu' mouiitaiiiK, whilf hove and tli<Mc, at the prettiest points,
llu' white, artistic tea houses ar«* dotted through the picture,
]ik(* white pearls in an emerald setting— the effect is very
lovely.

There are 110 less than 400 tea plantations in the Darjeel-

8TREET IN KHATMANDU, NEAR THIBET.

ing valley and vicinity, most of them owned and carried on
by ICnglishmen. The business is aVery profital)le one. The
tea is the finest in the world, -ind he that has once tasted the
genuine " Pekoe Dust " ir. spoiled for any other that we have
yet seen or tasted. It is ■ ; illy one of God's boons to the peo-
ple of India.

240 LARGER OCTLOOA'S ON J/fSS/ChVARV LAXDS.

At every railway station restaurant, and they are very
numerous and very well managed, you can get your " Cha,"'
and it is always good, and always cheap, and is really a sub-
stitute with very many for the alcoholic stimulants used so
nmch in England and America. It is most harmless and
wholesome, and, like the curry, seems especially suited for the
climate of India. We drank it in the morning, and could
work on it ; we drank it at midnight, and could sleep on it just
as comfortably.

But much more interesting to us than either the moun-
tains or their luxuriant vegetation were the people we met.
We had come to the Himalayas not to look at the snowy
heights or the green valleys, but because we had felt, for a
long time, that this was, perhaps, for us the Gateway into
that mysterious and long-closed land — the last citadel of
heathenism — Thibet.

To reach this land our Missionary Alliance was really
organized six years ago. It has been the object of ceaseless
prayer with many that God would open its doors to the Gos-
pel. A brave party of pioneers left us, a year ago, to attempt
to enter it from Cliina, and, with the Chinese language
already acquired, they are now waiting our arrival at Wuhu,
to go forward, as the Lord may open the way to the borders
of the Mountain Land". Since they left for China the Lord
has laid it much on our heart that there must also be a mis-
sionary gateway to Thibet from India, and one of the objects
of our journey was to see if it could be found. With this in
view we had made much careful inquiry at Bareilly, and

' LAXDS.

. they are very-
it your " Cha,"
is really a sub-
lulants used so
t harmless and
ly suited for the
ling, and could
i sleep on it just

;her the moun-
people we met.
at the snowy
had felt, for a
3 Gateway into
last citadel of

nee was really
ect of ceaseless
3ors to the Gos
ago, to attempt
iuese language
•rival at Wuhu,
'■ to the borders
China the Lord
it also be a mis-
e of the objects
. With this in
t Bareilly, and

FROM THE IIIMALA YAS TO Till-: IIOOCUI. )'.

241

found tliat their was a good deal of iiitercouiso witli Thibet-
ans, by way of Pittlioragurh (Miss Buddiii's Mission) and the
country just west of Ne])aul. But that field is well occujiied
by the Methodist Mission, and they are ready to enter the

THIBETAN MONASTERY IN THE HIMALAYAS.

first opening. They have also half a dozen stations along the
southern border of Nepaul, ready to enter that country, which
is also unoccupied, at the earliest opening.

As we have prayed about it, the Lord has laid it upon our

^itaSaAfi-'sl

fF"

I I

n ^

242

LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

lieart that for lis the nearest and most availahle gateway was
through tlie country just east of Nepaul and west of Bhotan,
hoth of wliich are still uuevangehzed, and so would he also
within reach of such a station. But, more important than
this, the point we have; indicated is the nearest point on Eng-
lish territory to Thihet, and on the direct roads to its chief
mountain pass, and only four day's journey, or less than one
hundred miles from the fiontier, and it was natural to sup-
pose that a good many Thihetans would he found in the val-
leys outside the horders.

We have not heen disappointed in our hopes. Not only
did we find Darjeeling nearer the horders of Thihet than any
other accessible point on English territory, but we also found
that Thibet had begun to come to Darjeeling. From the
moment we began to ascend the mountains we found our-
selves among an entirely new race. Their faces were utterly
different from the Hindus. They were short and thickset,
with high cheek-hones and fat faces, and a good deal like the
Chinese, but much brighter and better-looking. All the way
lip we met them on the road, many of them carrying great
bundles, and whole families of them in the villages sitting
together with their wives and children. The children looked
so cunning with their round, flat faces and little almond
eyes. They all speak Thibetan. We fell in love with them
right away. They seem en to be our own people. The Lord
laid them strangely on our hearts, and we felt it would be a
joy to live among them and love them into Christianity.

We believe God is yet going to let us have a great and

'-.- ' ■i w w. wWPj^B.ana Miwg

' LAXDS.

)le gateway was
west of Bhotan,
,0 would be also
important than
it point on En^-
oads to its chief
or less than one
; natural to sup-
ound in the val-

lopes. Not only-
Thibet than any
it we also found
ling. From the
IS we found our-
ices were utterly
rt and thickset,
:ood deal like the
ig. All the way
m carrying great
e villages sitting
B children looked
nd little almond
a love with them
Bople. The Lord
felt it would be a
Christianity,
have a great and

FROM THE HIM ALA VAS TO THE HOOGHL Y. 243

blessed work among these i)eoi)le. As we came to meet some
of them we found them a bright and happy pe()i)le. The mis-
sionaries at Darjeeling say they are " the joiliest" people they
ever met. Most of them live eight to twelve thousand feet
above the sea, and tlie bracing air makes them bright and
energetic. They seem to be nnich more lively than the
Chinese, although, of course, the latter race possesses (luali-

ties of strength and
to all other nations.
a^ least, one thous-
ing in the Darjeel-
reach of missiona-
there, and, we be-
them that we may
and receive Christ,
their people as her-
One native is worth
an evangelist to a
we can do nothing
of Thibetan work-
open, we shall not

THIBETAN PRAYING WHEEL

endurance superior
There are now,
and Thibetans liv-
ing valley, within
ries who might labor
lieve, God has sent
lead them to know
and then go back to
aids of the Gospel,
four foreigners, as
new people, and if
else but train a band
ers until Thibet is
spend the time in
But we believe we

vain, even if we have to wait for years

shall not have to wait, but God will open the doors of Thibet

the moment we are ready to enter.

The country is closed at present to foreigners. It is said
to be fifty years since a European visited Lhassa, the capital.
There is special jealousy, at present, of English influence.
There are good reasons for it. The Thibetans think England

244 i'-iP^GER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

GLACIERS ON THE HIMALAYAS.

has a political object in send-
ing these missionaries. Their
idea is — the missionary first,
and then the soldier. England, they say, has conquered
India and annexed Burmah, their two southern neighbors,
and will be sure to annex them if they let her in.

This jealous feeling has been very much increased by
some recent occurrences. There is a little state just north of
DarjeeUng called Sikkim. It lies on the southern border of
Thibet. Owing to some political troubles with its Eajah,
England has recently annexed this State, and put the Eajah
in prison. It happens that his wife is a Thibetan, and many
of his people also. Of course, the sympathy of the Thibetans

LANDS.

FROM '/'///■: HI MAI.. lY.lS TO I III'. HOOCIII. Y.

E HIMALAYAS.

bject in send-
naries. Their
ssionary first,
has conquered
ern neighbors^

in.

1 increased by
e just north of
hern border of
ith its Eajah,

put the Rajah
tan, and many

the Thibetans

is with him, and there is much feeling against England. A
few years ago the Indian govcrnnK^nt tried to send a dejjuta-
tion to Thibet to o]ien connneroial relations between the two
countries, but the Thibetans refused them entrance, and they
had to turn back fi-om the border.

A Conference is being held at this very time at Kenc^hin-
jung, a place inside the Thibetan border, between the English
conmiissioners and the Thibetan government, and it is hoped
the i-esult will be the opening of trade relations between
Thibet and India. If this is done, the missionary will follow
in due time.

We found more woik at I )arjeeling than we expected.
The Scotch Established Church has a mission and is building
a new church. They have a good many native workers and
several hundred mmnbtn-s in Sikkim, the annexed district,
but they an; working chieHy among the Nepaulese and peo-
l)lo of Bhotan, who live on British territory. There is really
no mission yet directly in either Nepaul or Bhotan, but a
good many of the i)eople of both these countries ai-e being
reached on theii- holders.

We ai-e also glad to find a little party of Swedish mis-
sionaries at Darjeeling. Al)Out a year ago, through the in-
strumentality of Mr. Franson, a good many missionaries
were sent out by the Swedish churches of America. Nine of
these came to Darjeeling with a view to reaching Thibet.
They had but little pi-eparation for their work and were utter
strangers to the field and the people. But God has guarded
theni very graciously and led them through many dangers.

246

/../A'c/r/v' orr/.ooKs ox Mrzsiox.iA'v /..ixns.

1 ■

We were most providentially led to them and received nmch
kindness from them, and, wo trust, were made a blessing to
them.

We found three young gentlemen living at Darjeeling,
and four of the young ladies at Ghoom, a laige village about
four miles away. Both towns are full of Thibetans. Wo
found them studying the language bravely, and some of them
able to talk considerable Thibetan. They were a little dis-
couraged at the obstacles that had been thrown in their way
by the refusal of the British Government to let them enter
Sikkim. But we encouraged them to persevere and promised
them that, as soon as we could, W(^ should send out some
workers to this field to help them. Tliey assured us of a most
hearty welcome, and full co-operation. Indeed, they met us
very much as did our missionaries, and we believe received a
new inspiration for their work fi'om the Lord.

But we believe God will soon give this land to His Church,
and Thibet seems many thousand miles nearer us since we
have looked over upon its mountain heights, and gazed upon
the faces of its dear peo])le.

We met with some very interesting people in the home
of our dear Swedish friends. One of them was a learned Ben-
gali Pundit, who had lived many years in Thibet, and has
written much about it. He is the owner of the house in
which our friends live, and has called the house Lhassa. after
the capital of Thibet. He will prove a useful friend to the
work. We shall be glad to publish some of his interesting
papers on this strange land.

/..I.\7)S.

I received much
,de a blessing to

j; at Darjeeling,
^0 village! about
Thibetans. Wo
d some of them
ere a little dis-
vn in their way
I let them enter
•0 and promised
send out some
ed us of a most
sd, they met us
lieve received a

L to His Church,
rer us siuce we
and gazed upon

pie in the home
i a learned Ben-
Thibet, and has
if the house in
30 Lhassa, after
ul friend to the
his interesting

F/^oM THE Himalayas to thf. ikhhuii. y.

247

Another whoni we met was the teacher of our friends.
He is a bright, young Thibetan scholar, and wrote his name
in Thibetan in our journal, and promised to write and let us
know when lie became a Christian, that we might send him
a Bible. Another was their servant, a handsome and bright
Thibetan lad. One of the most interesting of all was an old
Lama, aged seventy-four. We found him busy at his
prayers about six o'clock in the morning, and he received
us very kindly, but kept praying away while we talked. He
sang his prayers aloud, and between the notes every few sec-
ondj; he would ring a bell sharply to call the attention of the
gods, ih) said he first worshipped the Buddhist Trinity, and
the.i, after he got their permission, he made his offerings to
the earth gods. His offerings were rice and water, which he
kept placing, with a spoon, in a sacred vessel, singing and
ringing away as he poured it in. He expressed a great desire
to have an American inkstand, and we gave him the only ink
bottle we had, a rather nice one, done up in a leather case, for
travelling. He expressed himself as nmch pleased, and gave
us, in return, some incense papers for our Museum. We ex-
pect to find our ink bottle again, "after many days," in some
Thibetan valley, and to learn that it has borne more fruit
than if it had been used to write missionary letters.

The most interesting sight of all was a score of Thibetan
children whom we met at the Ladies' Home at Ghoom. They
formed the classes in their Sunday School. We had a photo-
graph taken of them, and we claimed them as the first fruits
of Thibet.

248 I.ARGl-.R OVTLOOKS OX MISSIOXARY I.AXDS.

We had the jilcjisiui' <if iiicctiii}; ^li'. Tunibull, Supeiiii-
t('ii(l(>ut of the Scotch Mission, and his excellent wife, and
also Mr. and Mrs. lirown, in charge of the Union English
Church. We liad a good view of the beautiful town of Dar-
jeeling, and next morning went over to Ghoom to see tho

SWEDISH MISSIONARIES AT DARJEELINQ.
A " Kodak" photograph takeu by Mr. Siiupsou,

ladies of the Mission. The gentlemen accompanied us, and
we spent two blessed hours at the feet of Jesus, putting
down the soles of our feet vei-y firmly upon Thibet, and feel-
ing very sure that God has given it to us.

As we came down from the mountain we felt that our

/../.was:

iihiill, Suporiu-
Uciit wife, and
Union J'^iiglisli
il town of Dar-
)om to st'c the

panied us, and
Jesus, putting
ibet, and feel-
felt that our

Fh'^)^r I III'. iiiM.u f y. is to riir. iioociii. v.

249

A-isit to India was about linished. In a most veniaikable
mannei- God liad led us to the places that had been laid on
our hearts, and made them mean much more to us than wo
had over hopcul. The seeing of the country itself has had
little interest to usapai't from its connection with the Master's
work and kingdom.

QOVERNMENT HOUSE, CALCUTTA.

Twenty-four hours brought lis to Calcutta, and although
we had a little while to spare in that stately capital of the
great Indian Empire, and felt impressed with its superb mag-
nificence as we drove through the spacious streets and al-
most boundless parks and gardens, yet we felt that we were
not needed here, and were glad that we wei-e to pass on so

mmm

'Tr

I H

250 /.AHaiiiA' oi'TLoohs o.Y A//ss/o.\\iA'} /..i.vns.

BANYAN TREE, ROYAL BOTANICAL GARDENS, CALCUTTA.

soon to other lands, where God is bidding us lift up our eyes
on the liarvests that are white also.

We called at the beautiful Methodist Parsonag*^ and heard
of the good work of our brethreii in the oity ; also of the
Woman's Union work, and several English and S(X)tch Soeie-
ties.

1 -.~:F^^^^S!'~-iiJf^:iV>tl

AND6.

r¥-

*f\

E^C^-I/'^

FA.

b up our eyes

ig(>uM(l lieard

; also of tlio

Scotch Socie-

FROM riiE HIM. If. I » /> /<> i">' Hoo<;in. v. 25 1

Wo went to tilt' Itoyal Hotiiiiicnl (^aniens, four iiiilrs
below the <-ity ..11 the other side of the Hooglily, Juul saw the
wondeiful Hanyan Tree of which every school hoy has read,
which cov«'rs with its hram^hes a space of L'C.o fe«!t in diam-
eter, or ino.e than a whole city block. We walked down th.»
double avenue of palms which stand twenty feet a]. art, a
double line of glorious lullars along an avenue r.uO feet long.
It was the grandest piece of architiM'tnre we ever saw.

THE HOOQHLY RIVER.

Straight as an arrow, unifoim in size and height, these glo-
rious white columns rose for fifty feet, and then all, at pre-
cisely the same height, terminated in a crown such as no
architect could carve. This garden, a mile long, contains, per-
haps, the finest collection of tropical vegetation in the worM.
On our way home we took a boat and had a genuine sad
on the Hooghly. It would have made our readers laugh till
they cried if they could have seen us. The boat was big
enough to hold fifty nuui, but it was the smallest we saw on
the river. They are all great, monstrous, outlandish lookmg

t!|i

252 J..-iR(;rR or-r/.noA-s ox .vrssrox.wy a^ixdm:

tliiiip;.s. It has a givat h'n^ cabin covrivd with a pjeco of
Lamhoo inattiiiK, as a roof, ami, of coin-se, m-raiigcd for ('vory
ono to Hit croKHlcggcd on the floor, thn only way a Hindu
knows how to sit. Well, wo got in tho old rickoty thing and
Kit down, and then two half-naked Coolies la^gan to propel
it, whilo one stt'cn'd. But tho i»ro|HHing apparatus ! Well,
it consisted of two long haniboo poles, about thirty feet long,
which they stuck down inlo iln bottom (.f th(> river, one on
each Hide, and pushed the boat with, and when they had pushed
tho boat's l(>ngth they would race forward, stick the judo down,

and give another long push, and so back ward and forward these
two half-naked Coolies trotted, pushing us along tho shallow
edge of tlu* liver until tho sun went down over Calcutta, and
the lanij/s flashed out along its avenues and streets. Our last
view of India life Avas siu-ely an original one. But every
day and hour brings otTt 'some new side of their siniple and
primitive life. Poor tinngs ! Without Christ their life is
very bmall, and we were wondering, to-day, whether they or
tlie birds that flutter about them have most to live for.

•^ iiil

r..i.\'ns.

»'ith a piece of
iiiK<'<l for every
• way a Hindu
■k(!ty tiling and
('K^'i to propel
iritUH ! Well,
lirty feet long.

liver, one on
bey had pushed
the polo down,

1 forward these
ng i\m shallow
" Calcutta, and
Bets. Our last
e. But every
eir simple and
ist their life is
hether they or

live for.

XV.

LEAVING INDIA.

EXACTLY Ave weeks ago to-day we landed in Bombay,
and now we are leaving India. A few hours ago
we waved the last farewell signal to dear Brother
Fuller on the Mackinnon Ghat, C.Vcutta ; and now we are
passing out into the Bay of Bosrtu, and the low, marshy
shores of Sagar Island, with their tiger-haunted jungles, are
disappearing from view.

It is a good time to pause and take one more look at this
great land, and gather up some of the lessons and impressions
which even this short visit has brought us.

First, we want to thank God for His wonderful goodness
in all our journeyings. Unavoidably compelled to come to
India in the month which is usually regarded as the beginning
of the hot season, many of our friends thought that we were
running considerable risk in attempting much travelling in
March. But God has very graciously, and, in a most unusual
measure, moderated the weather, and given us His strength,
so that we have not lost an hour on acc^ount of the weather,
or been compelled to suffer in any extreme way.

253

Ij ill

=54

LARGER OUri.OOkS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

We, especially, wish to thank God for the amount of
work we have heen enahled to accomplish. In thirty-five
days we have travelled r),2(;!> miles by rail, and more than 300
by carriage or cart. We have spent twenty-one nights on
railway trains and only fourteen nights in a bed. And the
railways of India have no Pullman sleepers, but you just lie
down on the seat in your clothes and cover yourself with
your rugs and go to sleep. But we are as fresh and well as
when we began our journey, and the Lord has kept us from
exhaustion and harm.

We have, also, l)e«m permitted to see a good deal of the
country. We have i; a veiled through a considerable portion
of each of tiie three Presidencies : Madras, Bombay and
Bengal, and also the Northwest Provinces, and even touched
the Punjaub We have passed through the native states of
Hyderabad, Mysore, Baroda, Guzerat, Rajpootana, and the
borders of Nepaul and Bhotan. We have had the privilege
of seeing something of the greatest cities of India, — Bombay,
Calcutta, Madras, Bangalore, Poona, Baroda, Delhi, Agra,
Cawnpore, Lucknow, Bareilly, Patna. We have seen some
of India's rivers— the Ganges, the Nerbuddah, and the
Hooghly. And we have crossed or climbed some of its
famous mountains — the Ghauts, the Vindhyas and the Him-
alayas.

We have been able to visit a few of the Missions, and
have had the jirivilege of meeting personally about one huu-
dred and fifty of he missionaries. Especially do we thank
God that He has permitted us to caiTy out most of His plans

-mmit

' LAXDS.

the amount of
In thirty-five
(1 more than 300
yr-one nights on
bed. And the
)ut you just He
'r yourself with
esh and well as
s kept us from

ood deal of the
iderable portion
,s, Bombay and
id even touched
native states of
ootana, and the
ad the privilege
ndia, — Bombay,
a, Delhi, Agra,
have seen some
iddah, and the
led some of its
as and the Him-

e Missions, and
about one huu-
Uy do we thank
lost of His plans

j./:.irixi; /.\7>/.i.

255

ig, and has not

which were laid u[K)n our heait before coniii
disai)p()inted us in any way, or permitted us to miss a single rail-
way connection, or fail to reach a single appointment. We
liave had the joy of visiting those Missions, especially where
God has so wonderfully poured out His Holy Spirit and we

INTERIOR OF A NATIVE STORE.

have been enabled to see some of the best results of modern
missionary work, as well as some of the most destitute and
neglected heathen fields.

We have had much to thank God for in the companion-
ship of our dear brother, Mr. Fuller, in these rapid journey-
ings. His knowledge of two languages of India, the Marathi

iKrrsu'SSS!F??»r5'5.-cT.-5,r'^"

ffffl"^'"

IMHI

256

LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MLSSLOXARY f.AXPS.

and Hiiidustaiii, lias carried us almost cvcrywliere, and hi*
experience of the country has greatly facilitated all our plans ;
while, on the other hand, he has gained a knowledge of the
country, and an extended acquaintance among the Missions,
wliich will he of the greatest value t<> liim in directing our
work in India.

Wevvisli, also, to thank our missionary friends in the
various Missions for their hospitality and kindness every-
where. We have found it very difficult to get to a hotel any-
where, and the simple hospitality of Christian homes in India
cannot well he exaggerated. Besides, one can see and under-
stand the country so much hetter under the guidance of those
who live in it.

Our object in coming to India was threefold, viz.: first,
to see our own missionaries, cheer and counsel them in their
work, and find out new openings for the further extension
of the work in other parts of India ; secondly, to visit other
missions, especially those that have had the marked seal and
blessing of God upon them ; and thirdly, so far as time and
opportunity allowed, subordinately to these first two objects,
to see and learn as much as possible about India and its
people. <

Reversing the order of these points, we will now endeavor
to STimmarize the results of what we have learned.

First, as to India and its people. Cut out of the United
States the country east of the Missouri River, and multiply its
population of about 40,000,000 by 7 and you will have the size
and population of India. These people all live in cities, towns

/..I.V/)S.

vhevo, and his-
'dull our plans ;
owledj^e of tlie
g tho Missions,
1 directing our

friends in the
dndness over)'-
; to a hotel any-
honies in India

see and under-
idance of those

Fold, viz.: first,
:\ them in their
"ther extension
, to visit other
larked seal and
XV as time and
•st two objects,
t India and its

1 now endeavor
•ned.

of the United
md multiply its
ill have the size
in cities, towns-

/./r.//7.\v,' rxnr.i.

257

and villages. Tliere are no farm houses in India. There are,
at least, a score of great cities with over 1()(\0(hi inhabitants.
There are twice as many between 5<),00(> and loO,000, and
there are, probably, a quarter of a million smaller towns and
villages scattered all over the land. In many cases the popu-

THE HIQH COURT, CALCUTTA.

latlou is as high as three hundred to the square mile. Of
India's 283,000,000, at least 50,000,000 are Mohammedans,
and most of the balance are Hindus.

The Hindus are of various castes. The Brahmins are the
Mghest, and they are very proud and exclusive. There are,

25'S

[.ARi:i:R OCTLOOKS ox MfSSroXARY LANDS.

nominally, four {;i'eat castes, but leally they are much more
numerous. The lowest caste, is, perhaps, the sweepers —
really the scavengers of the cities and houses, and how low
this work is only one can understand who has lived in India,
But the lower one's caste is, the more rigid is he in sticking
to it; and making the most of his little hit of self-import-
ance.

Politically, India is divided into a few great sections for
the purpose of government. The most populous is the Ben-
gal Presidency ; next, the Madras Presidency ; then, the Bom-
hay Presidency. Besides the three Presidencies there are
several other sections not included in them, viz., the Central
Provinces, the Northwest Provinces and Oude, the Punjaub,
Sinde, and Assam. Over each of these there is a Lieutenant
Governor, and suj^reme over all — a Viceroy or Governor
General. Besides, there are a number of independent native
states under British protection, such as Hyderabad, Mysore,
etc., aggregating about 60,000,000 of people. In each of these
there is a British President, an officer representiiftg the Eng-
lish government, who holds a sort of supervision over the
affairs of tlie state in conjunction with the Rajah or native
prince.

The government of India is probably the most perfect in
the world. It is an absolute monarchy, but it moves like a
great machine, and even the natives acknowledge its infinite
superiority to anything they ever knew. One is overwhelmed
at the thoroughness of this enormous piece of machinery. In
every District is a little army of officials representing every de-

LANDS.

are much more
;he sweepers —
3, and how low
lived in India,
he in sticking
of self-import-
eat sections for
lous is the Ben-
then, the Bom-
ncies there are
iz., the Central
e, the Punjaub,
is a Lieutenant
y or Governor
ipendent native
;rabad, Mysore,
w each of these
intijftg the Eng-
vision over the
Rajah or native

most perfect in
I it moves like a
edge its infinite
is overwhelmed
machinery. In
anting every de-

LEAVING INDIA.

259

partment of administration, the government providing every-
thing to the people— judiciary, water sui)ply, irrigation,
telegraphs, roads, medical attendance, police — everything.

THE PARK, GOVERNMENT HOUSE, CALCUTTA.

Every fruit tree is numbered and registered, so that if a man
should cut a branch off one, it would be reported in the sta-
tion that a branch had been cut from tree No. — , and the

SKSissBiassES'-^ajEsta

11 if

ill

260

LAPcr.R outlooks: ox missionary 1.1 xns.

oflfcnder would he traced to the remotest corner of India.
Every palm tree is taxed by number, every man, woman and
child is known and registered, and every government official
is listed in a published volume, and all the steps of his record
in the public service are printed in the public register.
So exact and inflexible is this system of absolute oversight,
that Dr. Norman McLeod said, when he saw an official cutting
a number in the bark of a tree : "o India, the very hairs
of thy head are all nimibered ! "

There are splendid government roads in all directions,
and at most towns public houses of entertainment provided
by the government. And yet this immense system of admin-
istration is carried on at one twenty-fourth what it costs per
head to govern France, one-twelfth that of England, and one-
sixth that of Russia. It is difficult for corruption to get in,
for every part is so arranged as to be a check on every other
part, and nothing can escape detection. The public officers
are paid large salaries, and are expected to be men of the
highest capacity, and after twenty-five years' service are pen-
sioned on an ample allowance. We have seen or heard of
nothing that compares with the thoroug^ness of the admin-
istration of this great Empire of more people than Cyrus or
Cajsar ever ruled. God Himself has arranged it as a frame-
work and preparation for the preaching of the Gospel in every
part of this land.

The people of India speak about fourteen regular lan-
guages in the various districts, and about half as many ab-
original dialects. The regular languages are Urdu or Hin-

i j i - uiiMJwiiwmijsiiBiaMwiBm i H

r.ANDS.

/ r.u/xc fxnrA.

261

1*116 !• of India.
11, woman and
•nmont official
s of his record
il)li{; register,
lute oversight,
official cutting
the very hail's

all directions,
nient provided
teni of admin-
lat it costs per
;land, and one-
)tion to get in,
311 every other
public officers
be men of the
tirvice are pen-
en or heard of
of the admin-
than Cyrus or
[ it as a frame-
rospel in every

n regular lan-
f as many ab-
Urdu or Hin-

i ^it^^i^iiii^ijmt'miamKmiA^.iih-n

dustani, Hintli, Bengali. Nciiaiili, I rya, Maratlii, 'I'diigu,
Guzerati, Punjaubi, Sindi, 'raniil. Malayalliii, ('anarese and
Singalt>se.

About one-fourth of the pcopU' are farmers. Many more
are simply laborers, and a good many have various trades
It is interesting to see them in the bazaars working at their
trades— in brass, blather, weaving, etc.

The chief product of India is cotton. Tben <H)mes opium,
we are sorry to say, and then various grains. It is a great
wheat and rice country, but the other grains are far more
numerous than in our Western land. Among tbe most com-
mon grains are doll and jewaree which form much of the food
of the people.

The most touching thing that we have seen in India is
the ])()verty of the people. The average income of every per-
son in England "is over -*l'0() a year; in America over -^lOo ;
in India $10. Millions of the people never get mo e than one
meal a day. Ten cents a day ic ;^ood wages for a man, and
five cents for a woman. You can see thousaiu. f women
carrying brick and mortar for the builders, or breaking stones
on the streets or roads for five cents a day, all the year round.
Their lowest stamped coin is the sixth part of a cent, but in
the bazaars they use shells to represent a still lower coin,
ecjual to less than the fiftieth part of a ctMit.

There are some clauses for their jjoverty, which might be
prevented. They waste a great deal in their idolatrous festi-
vals, and they sink a great deal in jewels and gold. There is
aio gold coin in India, for all the gold is immediately turned

262

L.IRCRR Orr LOOK'S O.y MrSSlOX.iRY LANDS.

into jewels. There are more goldsmiths than blacksmiths in
India, and nearly all the wealth of the p(>oplo is carried ou
their persons in precious gems. Perhaps the chief cause of
their poverty is their ignorance of skilled labor. The best
carpenters in the country are Chinese, they g(!t four or five
times the wages of a Hindu Coolie. One of the best things

our Missions can t(>ach
their converts is skill
in industrial work.

The seasons in In-
dia are three. There
is, first, the cool sea-
son, lasting from Nov-
ember to March, when
the climate is very
pleasant, at times
cold, and the cold, es-
pecially at night, is
more penetrating than
in America. We have
actually suffered in
Egypt and India, from
piercing cold, when
we had to have an um-
brella over us to pro-
tect our head from the
fiery sun, and yet our
A HINDU RELIGIOUS BEGOAR. ^ody aud fect wero

HNMWMa

/..t.WDS.

blacksmiths in
is carried on
chief cause of
jor. The best
j(>t four or five
he best things
sions can teach
)nvert8 is skill
strial work.
i seasons in In-
three. There
, the cool sea-
ting from Nov-
o March, when
iniate is very
t, at times
id the cold, es-
' at niglit, is
nietrating than
irica. We have
f suffered in
md India, from
; cold, when
to have an um-
WGV us to pro-
• head from the
m, and yet our
nd feet were

/./■:. n'/\(: /a/'/./.

263

Jiching with cold, even un<U'r tho weight of a fnr ovtucoat.
We have often lain down at night in ii train to sleep, perspir-
ing with heat, and awakened at three o'clock so cold that all
the mg8 wo could put over us would not keep us warm.

The next is the hot season. It lasts through part of
March and all Ai)ril and May, and sometimes till the middle
of June ; and tlien it is hot sometimes l-'5 in the shade, hot
both day and night, so hot that even the breeze i3 lik(! a
breath of fire.

Then comes the wet season. 1 1 lasts from the middle of
Juno until September. It is lalled the time of the Monsoons.
And then it does rain. On the mountains the lainfall often
reached four hundred inches, jui average of three or four
inches a day. < hi the plains it is about thirty to forty inches.
This is not an uni)leasant season, although it is somewhat
feverish. Then the land grows rich and luxuriant. After the
rains, the cool season (-omes again for, at least, six months.
Upon the whole, India is not an unhealthy climate or a
very trying one. The hot season is very hard to endure, but
it is not very long, and there are mountain stations near al-
most all parts of India, where its severity can be broken for
a time. There is no extreme heat ui.on the hills of India.
Such places as Darjeeling, Ooteeannmd, Mahabelasbur and
Simla are a paradise all summer, and are «.nly trying in the
rainy season.

The life of the Europeans in India is adapted to the cli-
mate. They wear light Hannel or linen clothing, and have
houses especially constructed for the country. Theii' meals

364

I.ATfar.R OITLOOKS OS MISSIOXARY fAXD^^.

ar« adjiistiHl so jiH t(» k«'i>]) them indoors in I lie lioat of tho
diiy. Thti niorninj^ begins about <• o* clock with a single cup
of tea and a slice of toast, which they call *' Chota hazry " or
•' little breakfast. ' Then they work till breakfast time. This
is the best |)ait of the day.

Tile Publico S(!hools begin at <i o'clock and close at noon.
In I'oona w«! prc'ached to tluf Sabbath morning congi(>gation
at 7.;'t» A. M. Then comes breakfast, usually about 10 to 1 1
o'clock, compelling people to stop and rest. After breakfast
the time is spent indoors for several hoius. The midday sun
is very hot and dangerous. Dinner usually closes the time
of rest, at, i)erhaps, 4 o'clock, and then the cool evening is
free. With others there is a Titlin or lunch at 2, and then
after an hour's re.st an evening of work till 7.150, when dinner
closes the day.

The natives take their principal meal «•( I night. Many of
them work all day on an empty stomach, chewing the betel
leaf, or a little pai-ched grain, and coming home at night to
])repare a little curry and rice, or, if too poor for ritie, some
cheai)er grain, and then go on with nothing else till tho next
night.

Their homes are very poor. We were in a good many
of them. They are built of clay or mats. There is one room
- soriieiimes an extra one for cooking. There are often no
windows. The fire is kindled of dried manure in a little open
space in the corner, and the smoke disappears somewhere as
best it can. They all lie on the floor. Their beds are carried
with them. They are mats and cheap rugs. They all lie
down togetner on the floor, wrapjied up in their luigs.

JjJ.flM,i!IBUII, ' JlllUW>J)l^, i llUji.tt!R-W

' . f \'A<?.

I i.avim: i\n/.i.

265

le heat of tho

1 a 8ingl(! cup
lotJi hiiziy " or
'uat timo. This

closo at noon.
J congicgatiou
ivbout 10 to 11
.ftor breakfast
ho midday sun
loses the time
ool evening is
at '2, and then
), when dinner

gilt. Many of
wing the betel
le at night to
for ri<!e, some
ie till the next

a good many
(re is one room
3 are often no
in a little open
somewhere as
eds are carried
They all lie
ir i-ugs.

Tlieir dress is very simple. The lab(»ring men have sim-
l)ly a pretty full doth wrapped several times around tlu^ loins.
Tlie poor women and girls wear little more. In Central and
.Northern India they have a i)iece of bright clolh about si.v
yards long, and they wind it several times gracefully around
the body and carry it ov«;r
one side of ihe head, but in
Madras the ])easant women
have nothing over their
shouliUns.

Tiie children are almost
always beautiful ; but after
twenty-five years of ago they
look worn. Early marriage
lias been a physical and social
curse to India. We noticed
the ditTerence among the na-
tive Christians at Lucknow.
The girls kept their beauty,
and brighter faces you could
not see than the young ladi(^s
of eighteen to twenty-four in
the girls' school.

But the girls of heathen India ai'O almost all wives at
twelve years of age. A young lady you never see. Even the
little girls you meet on the street are nearly all married to
somebody, and 20,ooo,0(io of them are child widows— t)ie
saddest lot in the world.

CASTE HINDU WOMAN.

(,r —

'H i,

266

LARGER OrTLOOKS OiV ^flSSrONARV LANDS.

All that India needs to lift her dear ])eople out of their
depression and degradation is Christianity.

The heathenism and idolatry of India is most depress-
ing. It has nothing attrac-
tive about it. The temples
have some architectual gran •
deur, but, inside, everything
is repulsive?. The gods are all
objects of fear rather than
love. The object of worship
is to keep them from doing
the people liarm. Tliink of
a smallpox god, and a cholera
god, that have to be propiti-
ated and appeased. The idea
of divine love is unknown.

We saw a good many
temple worshippers, but they
all depressed and oppressed us
with the foolishness, and emp-
tiness of the performance.
The worshipper would go in
and ring a bell to wake up the
god, and then walk seven
times around the hideous image and pass on. The priests
are a revolting looking lot of rascals, more intent on getting
money than anything else. Some of the exercises are very
filthy. At one of the great feasts they sprinkle manuro

A HINDU IDOL.

9 Mii>4 ' ,,

LANDS.

lie out of their

most depress-
othing attrac-

The temples
litectual gran-
ie, everything
'he gods are all
• rather than
ect of worship
111 fi'om doing
•m. Think of

I, and a cholera
! to b«^ jjropiti-
sed. The idea
8 unknown.

a good many
ipers, but they
id oppressed us
uiess, andenip-
performance.
r would go in
to wake up the
I walk seven

II. Tilt? priests
ent ou getting
rcises are very
rinkle manure

I.E. wise ixniA.

267

over the crowd, and every one is eager to get under the filthy
shower. At Benares we saw cows living in the temples and
turning the house of the gods into a beastly and filthy stable.
On the Ganges many corpses were lying with theii- feet
in the sacred river, and priests were vaking the half-burned
bodies of the dead into the sacred stream where others were
bathing in holy ecstasy. There is a filthy god to whom mothers
often devote their baby girls, in return for some great favor,
and the service of this god is a life of promiscuous shame
for this poor child, in which even she has no right of choice,
but is the common property of the abominable temple and
all its worshi])pers.

Little children are brought up from their infancy in hor-
rible familiarity with all kinds of evil. There is no privacy in
the home and no reserve in the talk of the family. The little
ears and eyes are i)olluted before they know the difference
between right and wrong. Unnatural crimes and vices are
not uncommon, and men are often lower than the beasts.

And yet, upon the whole, the Hindus are a far more
promising race than we expected to find It is a wonder that
heathenism has not left a deeper blight. Even the present
generation is a thousand times worth saving. They are a
civilized people. They are an affectionate people. They are
a bright, intelligent people. They are our own race and have
our own features and hearts. They make beautiful Chris-
tians. They are Christ's peoplt? for whom He died. 0, let us
go to save them !

But we must pass from the country to its Missions.

268 J.ARCIIR OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

What has been done to evangelize India? In ITOO, mission-
ary work was begun in the Madras Presidency by Schwartz
and others, and in isiio, Carey went to Serampoor, near Cal-
cutta. The evangelization of Western India b(^gan in LSI;?.
To day there are nearly one hundred missionary societies
laboring in India with seven hundred male missionaries and
over twelve hundred foreigJi laborers altogether, counting
botli men and women. The Bible is circulated in all the lan-
guages of India, and the missionaries have ])enetrated every
province except Nepaul and Bhotan in the extreme north.
In nearly all th(! leading cities missionaries aie ])laced, and
there arc, ])rol)ably, half a million communicants in the vari-
ous Missions, and, perhaps, two million native adherents al-
together.

It would have been a great pleasure to visit all these Mis-
sions, but it would have taken a year to do so. As it was, we
visited a few of those that God has most signally blessed in
recent years. We saw a good deal of the Methodist and Bap-
tist work, and something of the American Board and Pres-
byterian Missions. We met, ])ersonally, more than one hun-
dred of the missionaries of other societies than our own, and
we made very careful incjuiry respecting many that we could
not visit, and we are glad to say that we have a very high
opinion of the missionaries and the mission work of India,
upon the whole. When we think how very little has been
done by the churches at home, we can only wonder that God
lias made so very nmch out of it already for India.

There are two sides to the missionary enterprise. One is

LANDS.

ItOO, rnission-
y by Schwartz
poor, near Cal-
l)('gan in 1S1,'5.
)nary societios
ssionarios and
thcM', counting

in all the lan-
netrated every
xtrenie north,
ire ])laced, and
its in the varf-
I adherents al-

it all these Mis-

As it was, we

ally blessed in

lodist and Bap-

)ard and Pres-

than one hun-

our own, and

■ that wo could

^^e a very high

k'ork of India,

ittle has been

>nder that God

idia.

ri)rise. One is

/./-:. 1 17\(' /.\7)/.i.

269

the home side and the other is the foi-eign ; and we must say
--as representing the fonner,--that it is very far Ixihind the
other. We have not sent our missionaries to India to teach
the other workers, far less to criticize them, but to help them,
to supplement them, and to vie with them in holy service.
It is true there are two classes among the missionaries of
India, as there are tvt-o kinds of Christians at home, and the
proceedings of the late Conference have given much cause for
regret that there was not a bolder and more evangelical tes-
timony. But we are glad that we have met the other typo of
men and women, and there are enough of them to bring a
great blessing to India, and to encourage the church at home
to uphold their hands and reinforce their numbers as never

before.

But after all that has been done in and for India, the fact
remains that there is still only one foreign laborer, including
both men and women, to 300,000 people ; and while the great
cities are, in a measure, occupied, yet there are immense
spaces between them, extending sometimes to even hundreds
of miles, where there are no laborers. We can count thou-
sands of towns and tens of thousands of villages where the
Gospel has never been preached.

Besides, very much of the work of the other Societies in
India is either educational or the raising up and training of
native evangelists. Most of the American missionaries in
nearly all of the fields we visited are simply superintendents
of work. They expect the natives to do the evangelistic work
and to go out as pioneers and jn-eachers. This is, no doubt,

!, H

270

LARGER our LOOKS ON MfSSION/tRV LANDS.

an excellent plan— if only we had native preachers enough.
But there are no more to be had, and unless we send out
men and women from America to do this work of evangeliz-
ing, it will not be done.

In this respect our missionaries are undertaking 0. work
that is but little done by foreigners in India, and a work in
which there is room for thousands more, the work of preach-
ing the Gospel to the present generation before it shall have
passed away.

We have taken pains to collect exact information respect-
ing the unoccupied fields of India, and we believe that wc
shall find that more than half the population of the land is
yet beyond the reach of the Gospel.

But much of our interest in India must, of course, be in
our own missionary work. W ha, e already spoken very fully
of it, and it is only necessary for us to sum up a few general
conclusions.

1, God has given us, in India, the most open field in the
world. It is a civilized country under an excellent govern-
ment, with railroads and highway leading in every direction,
perfect security for life and property, and enough English-
speaking people to open our way to every place in the land.

2. It is the most economical field in the world. The pur-
chasing power of money is three or four times as great as in
most other countries, and our missionaries can be sustained
on less than one half what it must cost in Japan, South
America and other fields, and, we believe, much less than even
in China and Africa.

S^ea^^^^^^^^^^ww^^^^

LANDS.

LEAVING INDIA.

271

icheis enough.
IS we send out
c of evangeliz-

taking work
and a work in
'^ork of preach-
3 it shall have

nation respect-
elieve that wc
of the land is

)f course, be in

>ken very fully

a few general

ten field in the
lellent govern-
jvery direction,
ough English-
) in the land.
3rld. The pur-

as great as in
n be sustained

Japan, South
\ less than even

3. Its languages have been thoroughly acquired, and an
amj)lo Christian literature can be obtained and distributed in
all of them, at a low price.

4. God lias given us an adroirable field for our work.
The great province of Berar lies all along one of the leading
railways of India, is easily rearbod from Bombay, has but one
language, and is left for us, unoccupied by other Societies — a
precious inheritance of faith and service.

5. The field has been long prepared. For twenty years
faithful pioneers have been going over it preaching, praying
and preparing for the harvest, and winning for oin* workei-s
in the leading towns a kindly welcome and an open door.

6. God has given us an invaluable Superintendent, a man
of God, who thoroughly understands the field and has
labored in it for ten years, who is in perfect sympathy with
aU the principles of our work, who stands in the kindest
relationship with other Societies and missionaries, who has
the confidence and love of our missionaries, and who has,
also, an intelligent and large-hearted view of the whole
neighboring field, and is able to give a most necessary and
valuable ojiprsight of all our work in India.

v. And God has given us as the nucleus of our future
vfork a most blessed band of missionaries, men and women
of entire consecration, zeal, faith and power in the Holy
Ghost, and whose spirit of unity and devotion must exercise
a great and permanent influence on all others who may
join them, and upon all other missionaries who come in con-
tact with them.

i--^s^-L ' "*£ ^^^~K.e^iJi.^'^%1■;:;i(i,,^i^^^|^^:^^

_L.

(';•,! M

272 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSLONARY LANDS.

What are some of the results that we trust havf5 hoeii
gained for our work hy these five weeks in India ?

1. We liave gained a conception and realization of the
field, the woik and its needs, which nothing else (;ould give,
and we trust to be able to reproduce it upon the minds and
hearts of our ])eople at home.

2. We have found room to place in India as many more
missionaries as we can wish to send for the next two or
three years, at least.

3. We have been able to settle nmtually and in perfect
harmony the methods and principles of the work with re-
.-pect to all the unsettled points, relating to the distribution
of the workers, the erecting of new buildings, and the re-
ception and training of the missionaries in the field.

4. Our missionaries on the field have received a mighty
inspiration for their work, in the blessed Convention we have
been able to hold together.

5. We have learned very much of the best methods and
results of mission work by our visits to the other Missions.

G. Our work has been brought into very blessed relation
and the most affectionate fellowship with all the ^ ighboring
Missions and with some of the best Missions in other parts of

India.

Y. Through Mr. Fuller's visits along with us, he and our
missionaries in India have come into touch with several other
Missions among the most advanced and successful in India,
and the relationship thus formed will be of the greatest value
to our work in India, and, we trust, not without correspond-
ing blessing to these Societies and workers.

' LANDS.

rust liave Iw'eii
(lia ?

ilizution of tlie
E?lso could give,
the minds and

as many more
le next two or

' and in perfect
work with ra-
the distribution,
gs, and the re-
i field.

■civcd a mighty
rention wo have-

(st methods and
;her Missions,
blessed relation
the m ighboring
n other parts of

us, he and our
ith several other
:essful in India,
e greatest value
out correspond-

LEAVING INDIA.

273

8. We trust that our simple messages to the native Chris-
tians, the heathen, the various theological si uools addressed,
and the companies of missionaries we have met, have not
been without fruit, and we have nuicli cause to believe tiiat
many have been stimulated to holier, stronger service for
Christ and India.

9. Besides our work in Berar, God has shown us, we be-
lieve, some new fields for the extension of our work in Cen-
tral and Western India, where hundreds of laboiers, starting
from our common centre, can occupy new and unoccupied
ground in two new languages for Christ.

10. And more precious, perliaps, than any other purpose
that He has been pleased to lay upoii our heart. Ho has, we
believe, shown us a door to Thibet, for the evangelization of
which our Alliance was originally formed. So that if we
had seen nothing else come out of our long journey, we have
been amply repaid for the 17,000 miles of travel we have
already had over land and sea, by the blessed results which
we trust are to come for dear India.

And now, India, dear old India, for the present — fare
well. Thou art ever lying a living picture, with thy hun-
dreds of thousands of Christless villages, upon our heart.
God engrave thee upon the heart of His dear people, and some
day lot us see thee covered with the light and glory of the
Gospel, and crowned with the harvests, whose early seeds we
have humbly helped to sow !

XVI.

CALCUTTA TO BURMAH.

IT WOULD not have been for our highest good if we had
been permitted to leave India, after five weeks of unin-
terrupted blessing, without some trial of our faith and
patience. And so, when we reached Calcutta, and prepared
to embark for Burmah, we found that our trunk, and also a
valuable parcel, which we had left to be shipped at Bombay
so as to meet us in Calcutta, were not to be found. On mak-
ing inquiry we found that they had been shipped from Bom-
bay by a freight train and might not arrive for a week or two.
This was somewhat serious, as we were now on our way,
"by rapid stages, by a number of different steamship lines, and
it would be hard for our baggage to overtake us. But we felt
that it was, doubtless, one of our Father's ways of proving
His all-sufficient grace to us, and giving us some new testi-
mony for Him. And so we drove to the freight office and
asked the company to telegraph for it, and have it sent on by
a passenger train if it could be found, and forwarded after us
by the next steamer to Rangoon in the hope that it would
overtake us during the four days we were to wait there.
And so we went to the bazaars and got a few necessary arti-
cles of apparel, and went on, minus our baggage.

374

J—

CALCUTTA TO BURMAH.

275

st good if we hact
re weeks of iinin-

of our faith aud
itta, and prepared
trunk, and also a
lipped at Bombay

found. On mak-
lipped from Bom-
for a week or two.
} now on our way,
oamship lines, and
:e us. But we felt
3 ways of proving
18 some new testi-
freight office and

have it sent on by
forwarded after us
ope that it would
Bre to wait there,
few necessary arti-
iggage.

The next steamer came in while we were waiting at Ran-
goon, but our things wore not on board, but a dispatch came
instead, telling us that they would be on the next boat, nearly
a week later, and would be sent on to Singapore. It seems
l)robable that we shall have to leave Singai)ore before that
steamer can arrive, and so the ])rosent prospects are that we
may not receive our trunk before we reach Hong Kong or
Shanghai, nearly a month hence.

But, with perhaps a little lonely feeling, we just trusted
our Father again with it all, and felt that He would take care
of it. And as we told the little story of our trial and our
Master's grace for it, wo found that it did the missionaries
more good than anything else we said ; for it is in just these
little things that our faith and love and joy break down.
And we are glad to be permitted to triumph even in this. It
may seem a small thing at home to lose a trunk, but 15,000
miles away it is like the loss of a companion ; and, besides, it
is not always easy, in these circumstances, to get the things
you need in native bazaars. But the dear Lord has arranged
everything, and in due time we shall, doubtless, meet our old
companion, and, no doubt, get many blessings out of it all.

Our reason for taking the route from Calcutta to Singa-
pore was that we might have the opportunity of visiting Bur-
mah, and seeing a little of the wonderful work which God
has wrought among the people of that land through the
American Baptist Mission.

We took passage on the "Pentakota," of the British
India Steamship line. We had a nice and a good captain,

376 LAPcnn outlooks o.v MfssroN a /.n- /..txns.

but some very frivolous passengers on board, like too many
of tbo English and Americans that wo meet abroad. Tho
only themes of conversation were races, dances, dresses, and
lotteries ; and we felt more truly alone than among the
heathen. Our Sabbath was si>ent lying at anchor at the
mouth of the Hooghly Kiver, waiting for the tide to take us
over the dangerous sands, but there was no reUgious service
or recognition of God, and we found our way to the "little
sanctuary" which He has promised to be to us in far-off
lands, and there we met with Him and the divir ones at
home, and had .. peaceful and blessed day.

The navigation of this river is very dangerous. There
is an immense amount of sand carried down the stream, and
bars and quicksands are always forming, so that pilots have
to be most careful in entering and leaving tho port of Cal-
cutta There is one point where vessels have been known to
strike the bar, and then be swept over by the strong current,
and Pink in the quicksands, disappearing utterly m a few

minutes. , . ., au

We got safely out to sea, and after two days sail on the
Ba> of Bengal, which was smooth and pleasant, ^^e cast
anchor iu the mouth of the Irrawaddy, and again waited for
the tide to take us up to Rangoon. This was also providen-
tially arranged, and on AVednesday morning, a little after sun-
rise, we sailed up to the landing jetty of the capital of Bur-

The view of Rangoon from the river is very attractive. A
good deal of luxuriant foliage and many fine buildings line

)■ L.'ixns.

CALCUTTA TO nrRMAIt.

277

il, liko too many
ut't ahrojul. The
ices, dresses, and

than among the
at anchor at the
le tide to take us
► religious service
way to the "Uttlo
J to us in far-off

the dear ones at

hvngerous. There
n the stream, and
a that pilots have
; the port of Cal-
Lve been known to
;he strong current,
; utterly in a few

o days' sail on the
pleasant, "vv^e cast
d again waited for
was also providen-
g, a little after sun-
:he capital of Bur-
very attractive, A
r fine buildings line

the river for two or three miles, and, in the backgiound,
immbers uf Burmese pagodas, with that jjeculiar and striking
form that you see nowhere else, giv»; the whole scene a most
])i(;tures(iuu appearance. Kangoon is a largt^ commercial city
of over It »i»,()00 inhabitants, and is full of Fnglish merchants
and stores, and has a more English appearance than any

RANQOON.

other city we have seen in the East. The streets are very
wide, the buildings large and far apart, and there is an ai)i)ear-
iince of great spaciousness and considerable style.

Burmah is now a province of the Indian Empire-, and has
a population of about eight millions, including I' pper Bur-
mah and the other dependencies. Our readers will i-emem-
ber that a few years ago the ruler of Upper Burm.ih, old

278

r .1RGF.K OCTLOOKS OX MfSSrOXAKY LANDS.

Thebau, hccatim ho outrageous that England sent an army,
captun'tl Mandalay, hist cai»ital, and annexed liis territory.
He is now a royal prisoner in Katnagary, a British tort south
of Bombay. Ho was a modern Herod, and when he came to
the throne he killed all his relatives. They tell strange stories
of his brutality. His wife, however, seems to have been the
nding spirit, and the Jezebel and instigator of his crimes.
They tell a grim story of her : that while she was confined
—a state i)risoner in Madras, a nunvber of people wont to
see her, as a public curiosity. Among them were some ladies
who laughed very heartily at some things she said and did.
This so annoyed her Majesty that she siunmoned the oflicer
of the prison, and said very excitedly to him : "Take those
women out and cut their heads ott'." This was, evidently,
her old way of settling annoying people, and she could not
see why the English authorities should object to it.

Burmah is a rich countiy, and is (piite distinct frotn India
in many of its features. It is, largely, a rice producing
country. They call the raw grain " paddy," and tb.wi hie
delta of the Irrawaddy is one immense "paddy iicld." In
the wet season the whoU- land is flooded, and the people
travel about on elevated roads, which are built about four
feet above the ground. As soon as the ground is wet enough,
they turn in with their buff aloes and rude plows, and work up
the mud. about three feet deei), and ihey then j)lant the rice
in these mud fields, and the water remains till it ripens, and
then dries up and allows them 'o harvest it. Wo went out
into the country and saw these paddy fields. It was the dry

y f.ANDS.

soiit Jill army,
d bin U'lritory.
ritisli fort Houtli
i^lu'U ho camo to
II strange stories

havo been the
r of his crimes,
le was conflned

people went to
kvere some ladies
le said and did.
oned the officer
: "Take those

1 was, evidently,
d she could not
t to it.

itinct from India
rico producing
" and th(- whole
»addy ueld." In
and the people
built about four
id is wet enough,
iws, and work up
lMi plant the rico
ill it ripens, and
■,. W«? went out
It was the dry

cAi.crrrA rn m rmaii.

279

Btmson and the rico had all been harvested, and the land was
one plain of cracked and dusty clay. The houses are all
built on posts about foui- feet above the ground, so as to
escape the inundation.

Burmah is, nlso, a groat timber country, and the teak
tree grows here in its perfection. It is a most valuable and

ELEPHANTS MOVING LUMBeR IN BURMAH.

beautiful wood, hard and enduring as oak, and coloring fine-
ly to the tint of black walnut. We have never seen prettier
wood carvings than the natural teak wood after it has sea-
soned They do not even oil it, but it grows nearly as black
as ebony and it lasts for centuries. The inside woodwork of
their houses is very pretty in simple teak wood. The trees

lii

lUm

Ji ''i^

280

LARGER OrTLOOk'S ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

of Burmah are much larger than in India, and the vegetation
looks more luxuriant. The rai)is come a month earlier, and
the liot season is sliorter and more moderate.

As we sailed up the river, the native boats were very-
pretty. They have a very picturesque shape, with a high,
])ointed prow, like the point of a Turkish slipper, and the
stern is round
and nicely
carved. T li e
hoats are about
the shape of a
mason's trow-
el, with the
point raised
very high.
The boatman
stands and
rows hy push-
ing his oars
and propelling
the boat in
front of him.

We found ourselves at once among a new race. These
were not Hindu faces. They are much I'ounder and flatter,
and have a distinct Mongolian touch. Many of them are
quito •^ood-looking. They are much better dressed than the
HinduSo The men and women dress very much alike. There
is a very bright and pi-etty skirt, usually of brilliant checked

A BURMESE BOAT.

LANDS.

CALCUTTA TO PARMAH.

281

the vegetation
til earlier, and

its were very
, with a high,
pper, and the

r race. These
ler and flatter,
f of them are
essed than the
1 alike. There
■illiant checked

or tartan cloth or silk, tied around tlu^ waist and reaching to
the feet, and, over this, a jacket, usually white ; the head
dress is a pretty hand of pink or scarlet tied around the brow
and hanging loosely behind. Their dress is quite picturesque,
and at least decent, winch

people have a Hh^B^^HI^I W^^^^\ inde-
pendent and ^^H|P^|3|^|^B ^^^P^^'^^^^' ^^'^^'
There none ^^^^pi^^B^HH| <>f the appear-

pov- HHB^^^^^^l ^^'^^' ^^"^^
caste here, and |^^i^^fl^^B| "" lower o r-

more' money HH^^H^^H ^^^^'^' "'^'^^^^ ^^'^

or three other H^B^^BI^^^H ^^^^'^ "^ ^^^^'
m a h — t h e Hf^^^^^^^^^H ^^^'^"^' ^ ^^ ^

eral others, H^^PJH^M^^B who are abo-
riginal people, * ^"■'""^^ '^°^- somewhat like
our Indians, and like the hill tribes of India, and on these the
Burmans look down, and formerly i)ersecuted them. The
Karens number over half a million, and the other tribes about
half as many. It is among these aboriginal tribes, as we

&,,-.^-

— ^■1

BBH

LARGER OVTI.OOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

shall immediately see, that the Gospel has achieved its grand-
est triumphs.

'rhe Burmese are Buddhists. At once one is impressed
with the entirely different character of their religious woi-
ship and buildings. Here you see none of the hideous and
disgusting
found in
temple, but
there is but
peated in ten
forms and
marble, a la-
brass and
ways the
harmless,
tured, rather
little like a
who is won-
er she is a girl
It is old Gua
Burman Bud-
has no other

tion ho certainly is decent and harmless, a great improve-
ment on the l)estial and devilish forms of the Hindu temples.
Everywhere he is enshrined in fine pagodas, and both he
and the pagodas worshipped devoutly. These pagodas are
not temples, but monuments and shrines to Guatama. An
image of him is at the base of each pagoda ; indeed, usually a

A BURMESE WOMAN.

idols to be
every Hindu
every where
one face re
thousand
place s -i n
baster, wood,
gold, but al-
same quiet,
g o o d - n a-
insipid face, a
dreamy girl
deringwheth-
or a woman,
tarn a, the
dim, and if he
recommenda-

•-•''*4si

hXDS.

id its grand-

s impressed
'ligious wor-
hideous and
lols to be
vevy Hindu
very where
ne face re
h o u 8 a 11 d
lace s— in
aster, wood,
old, but al-
amo quiet,
; o o d - n a-
asipid face, a
reamy g i i' 1
eringwheth-
r a woman,
a ma, the
[ha, and if he
ecommenda-
;at impx'ove-
ndu temples,
and both he
pagodas am
latama. An
)ed, usually a

■f

f*}|!M^SSi«g^fe¥SS*^WKieg»S«ii«SS»t^^!«»a»^'-i^^

t.jSt/fegg^vrgin^l^ya';

CALCUTTA TO BURMAH.

283

DISTANT VIEW OF SHWEE-DA-OONE PAGODA.

great number of images. Some of them are of immense size
and finely carved. The pagodas are often very fine. The
great one near Rangoon known as Shwee-da-gone, is over
three hundred ^'eet high, and jnore than one hundred feet in
diameter at the base. Tlie sbape would be very hard to

"''''wwi!^ aSjM!teHMt^"'^*^^ '^y^^sa^8^^'SBg^^ss^at^fa;<ja-g^^

LARGER OUTLOOKS OX MfSSfOA'.IRV LAXDS.

describe. It must be seen. It is a good deal like a bell with
the handle running up to a fine ornamental point. The top
is an umbrella of fine gold, and often set with the most
])rei;ious stones. This inunense pagoda stands on a high hill
approached by splendid stei)s and colonnades, and containing
an immense enclosure, at least one thousand feet square. In
the centre stands the Great Pagoda, and, in the S])ace, innu-
merable other artistic figures, columns, pagodas, idol houses
with ])icturesque roofs and turrets, and the finest carving m
wood, brass, stone and stucco work.

The place was thronged with priests with their shaved
heads and rather handsome flowing robes of jmre yellow.
Each priest was followed hy a crowd of boys carrying his
offerings and parcels. This is regarded by the boys as a
meritorious work and will bnng them a great reward in the
future life. Everything in the Buddhist system is merit.
Whatever good thing we do goes to the account of merit, and
will count so much in our favor in the next stage of our ex-
istence.

And what is this next stage ? It is transmigration. It
is to be born in the form of some beast or bird, through age
after age, until at least we come to the Buddhist's heaven —
Nirvana, which just seems to mean— annihilation. So that
the brightest hope of the future, and the best thing our works
of merit can bring us, is to come back next time in some
higher animal form, some more fortunate crow, or snake, or
beetle, or, perhaps, some sacred brute, like a monkey, or a
cow. Well, God have mercy on their poor, blind hearts ! Is
it not heart-breaking ?

?*'»•» . JOj^ ^^X- 1 <~ -i^BWJigK?*

IDS.

a, boll with
;. The top
the most
a high hill
containing
(juare. In
I)aco, innu-
dol houses
carving m

leir shaved
ire yellow,
irrying his

boys as a
'ard in the
1 is merit.

merit, and
of our ex-

;ration. It
1 rough age
's heaven —
1. So that
; our works
10 in some
)r snake, or
)nkey, or a
hearts ! Is

SgpS^^pHS^p- JP

CALCrTTA TO inh'.^f.ur.

28 T

Theso pagcclas are being ronstantly (lecoratiHl uiul v-
gilck.l by nu'U Nvbo gladly give tbeir gol.l and tbeir tnue to
tbis work, in tbo liopo of laying up a littlo stock of merit.
Truly the god of tbin world is leading men captive at bia will,
and making fools of tbose who wen^ created in tbe image of
God Tbe disbonestyof the whole system is glaring. On
account of their idea that every animal is just tbe incarna-
tion of some man that once lived, they do not believe in kiU-
in«' animals. And yet they get round it very comfortably.
They let some one else kill it, and they buy it and eat it.
Or they say they simply took the fish out of tbe water and
it died -they did not kill it ; but they do not hesitate to eat it.
The idea lying back of Buddhism is self-denial; but, practi-
cally their priests are said to be notoriously immoral, and
they have some specious way of excusing everything by some

evasion or subtility.

There is another race in Burmah, whom we expect soon
to meet in their own land, but already they have made them-
selves felt in Burmah. They are the Chinese. Next to the
English they are the most wealthy and prosperous people m
Rangoon. Some of them are quite rich. Wherever he goes
in Southeastern Asia the Chinaman leads the native. He has
elements of character-mechanical skill, business enterprise,
persistence, thriftiness and endurance, which make him easily
master in the race with the Malay, the Burman and the
Hindu They are the greatest of the Asiatic races. God
help us to give them the Gospel ! We were glad to hear of
several Chinese Christians even in Burmah.

286 LARGER OI'T/.OOKS O.V AffSS/OXARy /..I.VDS.

But wo liavo said enough about the land and the people.
C)ur Kpocial object was to see the work of God amongst them.

Jt is just eighty years since Adoniram Judson entered
Rangoon as the fust missionary of the American Baptist Mis-
sionary Union, Six years later, the first Burmese convert
was baptf.^ed. Twenty years later the Scriptures were trans-
lated into Burmese by Mr. Judson, and, a few years later, the
Karen Bible was also finished. To-day the Baptist Missions
contain a native community of over seventy thousand, and
more than : hirty thousand actual communicants. There are
no less than five hundred Karen churches. Many, indeed
most of these, are already self-supporting ; and, besides sus-
taining their own pastors, these churches have formed a
Home Missionary Society, and are sustaining Missions and
evangelists among the destitute villages of their own people.
They have always been more ready than the Burmese to re-
ceive the Gospel, and, in some respects, have made greater
progress in Christianity than any other people among whom
the Gospel has been preached in modern times.

These Karens are, apparently, an exotic race. They
speak an entirely different language from the Burmese, and
are a distinct people. They live in their own villages and
often move in whole villages, especially when pressed or per-
secuted by their Burmese neighbors. In some respects they
are like our American Indians, and in many, like the hill
tribes of India. They have some strange traditions, among
others an account of the Creation, and the temptation of our
first parents, almost identical with the Bible narrative. They

■■^fec-

LVDS.

the people,
ongst them.
Ison entered
Baptist Mis-
loso convert
I were ti-ans-
irs later, the
ist Missions
ousand, and
There are
any, indeed
besides sus-
e formed a
fissions and
own people,
•mese to re-
lade greater
Tiong whom

race. They
urmese, and
villages and
jssed or per-
Jspects they
ike the hill
ions, among
ation of our
tive. They

o
o

CALCUTTA TO BUR M AH.

287

have, evidently, touched tlu* Jewish people at some point in
their history. They liad, also, a tradition that some day-
teachers were !<' come to them from the West, and so, when
the missionaries canu) to them from Western lands, many ac-
cepted the Gospel, and whole villages, in many instances,
embraced Christianity.

It was a great pleasun^ to be permitted to visit this inter-
esting Mission. More tlsa;. one Imndred American Mission-
aries, including ladies, mc i.itoring in Burmah, and over two
hundred native preachers. We si)ent nearly five days among
them, and had the privilege of meeting no less than thirty-
seven of the American Baptist missionaries, besides a number
of workers in other Societies, and a few of the native preach-
ers. We were invited to address a number of meetings
among the missionaries, and found a deep spiritual hunger
and an earnest longing for more of that blessing which God
is pouring out upon the Telugu Mission through the Holy

Ghost.

We could not have been more cordially received by our
own workers than we were by these dear friends. Several of
them we had known in America, and there were not a few
whom God has been calling for a good while very near to
Himself, and fitting by a special anointing for great useful-
ness. We were the guest of Prof. Gilmore, son of a very
dear friend in the ministry in the United States ; and he and
bis beloved wife and baby made our stay a real taste of home.
A number of the workers came in from Maulmain, Bassein
and other points. The season was a little unfavorable, being

1""^
'%

ags'- ' fej^^jfe'^-j^!^'-''''''** ' '''*

288 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

the vacation time in all the schools ; but we saw most of tho
teachers and school premises, and got a very good conception
of this part of the work.

Our most interesting experience, and one which our
friends planned for us with special thoughtf ulness, was a visit

to a Karen village in the
country. Riding out by train
to the station of Mhawbee,
v.'e were met by the Karens
with their carts, and driven
across the paddy fields to
their villages in the jungle,
where we spent a day and a
night, and saw them in all the
simplicity of their native
home.

The good pastor gave up
his house to us, and wo just
took possession, bringing our
own provisions and cook, and
making ourselves at home.
Every missionary in India,
who travels in the jungle and
goes out itinerating, has a serv^ant who is accustomed to this
sort of cooking. And you would have been surprised at the
nice dinner and breakfast our "boy" gave us. G e one of
these natives a little rice, a chicken and a few spl^e/.,..a,nd it
is amazing how many dishes he will \ o you.

KAREN GIRLS.

■

.AMDS.

CALCUTTA TO BURMAH.

289

w most of the
3od conceptioa

lie which our
ess, was a visit
k^illage ill the
3g out by train

of Mhawbee,
by the Karens
;s, and driven
,ddy fields to
in the jungle,
nt a day and a
them in all the

their native

lastor gave up
s, and wo just
1, bringing our
, and cook, and
Ives at home,
lary in India,
the jungle and
istomed to this
urprised at the
s. G e one of
^ splv.e:f.,..a,ndit
ou.

After breakfast we were met in the chapel where the
people had assembled to greet us. There was a congregation
of over seventy, notwithstanding the short notice. We, of
course, were invited to preach to them, and we did, the best
we could, through a native interpreter. We have found that
the only way to reach these people is to give them simple
illustrations. They hstened .ery attentively, and when we
. ,ot through, they came up, one by one, and began to respond.
One after another they would squat down, Indian fashion, in
front of us, and looking up into our face like very children
would talk out all that was in their heart.

Oue of their preachers made quite a speech, asking us to
thank the American Christians for sending them the Gospel,
and saying how poor and weak they yet were as Christians,
and not able to understand all the deep things of God. This
was one of his simple illustrations : "One hen," he said,
"can cover ten chickens with her wings, but ten chickens
cannot cover as much as one hen. We are the ten chickens,,
the American Church is the hen." Several of them brought
us money, but, of com .% we handed it over, with a little
added to it, as a contribution towards the new chapel they
are about to erect.

After the meeting wo had some hours of leisure, and
walked through their jungle and a neighboring village.

The men and women all smoke, and we got some of the
girls to f sent us two or three of their cigars as specimens.
They ^.i made of corn husks, very thick and large, and
many of them a fo-'HUong. What would you think of your

290 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS,

young lady friend taking from her mouth something like a
small stick of timber, and then deliberately sending in your
face an immense cloud of tobacco smoke ? Well, at least they
are consistent in letting the women smoke, for if it is good
for the one sex it is surely as good for the other. They only
laughed merrily when some of us attempted to raise the ques-
tion of the right and wrong of smoking. They had not got
this far yet.

Later, we visited the neighboring Burman village. It
was a long, winding "^treet, with houses on both sides, and
about three dogs to a house ; and as we passed along, these
wolfish-looking dogs watched their chance, on each side, to
dash at us with a yell and a snap, and only the vigorous use
of some stout bamboo rods kept us from their teet^. In pro-
portion to the density of its heathenism, we found, is the
number, the meanness and the manginess of tb« dogs a
Burman village possesses.

The native pastor of the Karen village went with us
around the country villages. We found him a very remark-
able man. He is the pastor of a church of three hundred
members in this and several other Karen villages in the vicin-
ity. During the past year he has baptized one hui ired and
twenty persons, and is to baptize thirty more next Sabbath
evening. The American missionary who superintends the
Karen work in the Rangoon District was along with us, but
he has one hundred churches and six thousand members to
oversee, and he can only give a general supervision, and has
to trust all the details to these men. Such native pastors are

' LANDS.

totnething like a
sending in your
/"ell, at least they
for if it is good
ther. They only
to raise the ques-
hey had not got

man village. It
both sides, and
ssed along, these
on each side, to
the vigorous use
r teef^. In pro-
ive found, is the
s of tb" dogs a

e went with us
J a very I'eniark-
»f three hundred
iges in the vicin-
me hui ired and
re next Sabbath
mperintends the
mg with us, but
md members to
jrvision, and has
ative pastors are

CALCUTTA TO BUR M AH.

291

of great value, and they have been the chief instruments in
the, great work which God has done among the Karens.

We slept that night in the jungle, and heard the "tok-
ter" calling near our bed through the night, with his loud
call, " tok-ter." He is a great lizard, morq than a foot long,
with a voice louder than that of a frog. But we let him call,
for they told us he kept away the snakes, and there are some
of them in Burmah's jungles. But we slept in peace, and
awoke in safety, to find men and women, indiscriminately,
walking in and out of our room in perfect innocence of the
fact that we had to make our toilet. We looked out on the
village street, and the men and women, indiscriminately,
were taking their morning bath. They did it in the most in-
genious way. A woman would take a pail of water from the
well, and with her thin fold of cotton around her, would pom*
i^ ovp>^ her head, again and again, and then she would dex-
tvii. \j slip a dry robe over her head, and let the old wet
one drop off, under the other, and she was dressed for the
day— no need of towels or looking-glass. And another would
come along and take n similar douche, and the dirty water
would iust soak down and back into the well again, and the
dear pe. pie would draw it up in buckets and drink it ; as in-
nocent, as a babe just born, of all our modern notions about
sewers and filters and civilized sensitiveness.

The good native pastor could not understand < n<' use of
the filter we brought with us. He thought it was it of
drinking cup. We found one very pure and rein -,hing
drinking cup about which we need have no qualms. It was

393 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LAND^

the great bunch of cocoanuts the good people brough'j us,
just ready to pour out their crystal draught of aci^-ulous
water. Upon the whole we greatly enjoyed our Karen visit,
and felt we had a glimpse of primitive life that few visitors
to Burmah or India ever get. Above all, we saw, with all its
simplicity and crudeness, what God is able to do for heathen
souls, and in it we beheld the promise of the harvest which
is surely coming to our own field. Judson labored six years
in Burmah before he saw the first convert, and, to-day, there
are tens of thousands. Praise the Lord for what we yet hope

to see !

On our return to Rangoon, we had the pleasure of meet-
ing, at lunch, the president of the Karen Theological Semi-
nary, and also his excellent and accomphshed wife. He told
us that ho had one hundred students in training for the min-
istry, and a graduating class of nearly twenty. This is the
best hope of the Karen churches.

We also visited the yet unfinished Memorial Hall, which
the Karens are erecting at their own expense, as a monument
of God's goodness to their people. It is one story high, as
yet, and covers a large area, and when completed will be one
of the most striking missionary buildings in the world.
Their means are hmited, but their hearts are large, and, we
trust, they mry soon be able to complete this most interest-
ing memorial.

Many American friends will be glad to know that God is
greatly blessing and using our dear sisters. Miss Ranney and
Miss Phinney, whom many of our people will remember

^'^u^i^:

.ANDS.

CALCUTTA TO BVRMAH.

293

I brought us.
of aciaulous
r Karon visit,
it few visitors
w, with all its
lo for heathen
liar vest which
ored six years
, to-day, there
it we yet hope

asure of meet-
lological Semi-
.vife. He told
g for the min-
yT. This is the

al Hall, which
s a monument
story high, as
ted will be one
in the world,
large, and, we
most interest-

meeting at Round Lake and the New York ' Tabernacle,
besides many others whom we should be glad to name if it
were proper.

But we must leave Rangoon and Burmah. God bless
this land and this .vork ! Here, too, wo have placed " the
sole of our foot," and c'iaimed it for Christ and His coming.

Our Baptist friends have nobly pieempted it and very
fairiy occupied it. At least, we believe that ere long they
will occupy the entire field, and it would seem to be a pity to
divide the thougJit of these simple people, who know nothing
of sectarianism, by sending any rival churcli there. But
there is need, even iu Burmah, for one hundred more mis-
sionaries. May God r.;)eedily send them from the Baptist
churches of America to ihe unoccupied villages of Burmah !

It was very hot in Burmah -a real taste of tropical sum-
mer. And it was a relief to stand onco more on tlie cool deck
of the "Pentakota" r.nd cai! down the coast of Arracan in
tlie face of the old Southern Cross, and toward the shores of
Sumatra and Singapore.

3W that God is
ss Ranney and
vill remember

■iKm9m!(^ifitji^^yn^!SmimuiKid Km

XVII.

AMONG THE MALAYS.

r. YC THING could have been more delightful, so far as
'^ physicTil conditions are concerned, than the sail down
th .' Bay of Bengal, from Rangoon to Singapore. It
occupied seven days, and followed the coast of Burmah,
Tanasserim and the Peninsula of Malacca. The weather
was extremely pleasant, with a hot sun, but a delightful
breeze night and day. We had few passengers and plenty
of v om, and lived on deck both night and day, only going
down to the cabin long enough to take our meals. At night
the steward made our beds on deck and we slept in the cool
breezes until he brought us our " chotahazry," or cup of tea,
at G A. M., and awoke us for our salu water bath and simple

toilet.

We were able to do unbounded literary work through
the long hours of the breezy day, and to conic somewhat near
overtaking an enormous mass of accumulated correspond-
ence and other writing. It certainly was not a pleasure sail,
although a very pleasant one, and, like all our other days
abroad, we asked the Lord to let these days, which He made
so calm and still, count the very utmost for His work and
kingdom.

AMONC THE M.U.A VS.

295

tful, so far as
t the sail down
Singapore. It
t of Burmah,

The weather
t a delightful
5rs and plenty
ly, only going
als. At night
ipt in the cool

or cup of tea,
ith and simple

work through
omewhat near
3d correspond-
a pleasure sail,
ur other days
hich He made
His work and

As we got farther south, and nearer the equator, the
Pole Star sank lower and lower, until at last, a good while
before we got to Singapore, it disappeared altogether, and, at
the other side of the heavens, the Southern Cross rose higher
and higher toward the zenith with a great train of glorious
new constellations behind it, making the midnight sky a

galaxy of glory. t ^ 1

The climate underwent the most marked change. Instead
of the long dry season of India, we soon sailed into the zone
of showers. Every night the horizon would be illuminated
by brilliant lightnings, and nearly every day there would be
rain, frequent and heavy, although short showers, much like
our American summer thunder storms. Along the equator it
rains all the year round, and the hottest day is almost sure
to be cooled by a few hours of moisture. In consequence of
this the vegetation is most luxuriant, and every island and
shore was wooded to the water's edge and rich with glorious

forests and flowers.

Animal life, too, began to grow exuberant. Our cabins
swarmed with red ants, and they walked over us at all hours
of the day and night without asking leave before they
lunched off us. Their bite is not as bad as that of the mosquito,
but it is not a tropical luxury. One morning we found a colony
of them in one of our pockets whei-e something edible had
attracted them. Occasionally, one would hear a female
scream, and the disturbing cause would usually prove to be
a great, and, perhaps, hitherto unknown species of cock-
roach or beetle. Our good-natured Scotch cp.ptain told us

B HiaMuawt'-t

■■ ■ ' ims^ s ^sm^ii^isiiXiui^mimiiiiii^

NEAR MALACCA.

that his cockroaches swarmed Sundays and Wednesdays,
and then came out of the recesses of the sliip to exhibit. We
are afraid, however, that ours did not always keep regular
hours.

'i^ttjjk'-"

i;'.

1 Wednesdays,
o exhibit. We
rs keep regular

,IA/0\(' THE MALAYS.

297

Oil our way down tlir l».iy w«' jtassed far to the west the
Andaman Ishiuds, which form the Penal Colony of India,
and where the worse criminals are transported for life. The
natives of these islands are said to he the most degraded type
of human beings on the face of the globe, and nnich lower
i'veii than the aborigines of Australia. We stopped a day
at the Island of Penang, which is an English Colony and
part of the Straits Settlements. We had time to land at the
pretty city of Georgetown and send off about fifty letters
by the India and English mail, just leaving. Then, in the
afterno^n, we took a jinriksha and rode out several mil(^8
through avenues and forests of palms to the B(jtanical (lar-
dens and the waterfall which comes down from a mountain
about 2,500 feet high. We found ourselves not only in a
new- British Colony, but surrounded by new- laces. The Chi-
nese were everywhere and the Malays now began to appear.

We will not stop to speak of the beauty of the ride or the
Gardens, (>xcept to observe that it was a scene, all the way,
of tropical luxuriance. The grass grows here as, of course,
it cannot in India, especially in the dry season ; and the
ground was one rich carpet of verdure covered with a luxuri-
ance of palms, banyans, plantains, and many etpially beauti-
ful trees covered with orchids and other parasites in profu-
sion, and, often, richest bloom. The Gardens, with the orchida
and fern houses, must be seen to be realized. Many beautiful
islands surround Penang, and the city is most picturesque as
seen on entering and leaving.

We reached Singapore two days later, and here found

f iimsmmfsmMmm .

T} u.$ S B),^mM*m!»jm--mfAh'^,-^» ,K-

KviKmrn- -' ' •-."fi'r

298 LARGER Ol TLOOKS OX MfSSIONARy LANDS.

IN THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO.

ourselves in tli metropolis of English Malaysia, and all that
we could say u. other poi its can be still more truly said of

LANDS.

'|;^

lia, and all i at
re truly s;i of

Jtm "^

.iMox(.- ri:i: .u.i/.ns.

299

this. The appronch through the "NewHarhor" is exceed-
ingly pretty. The straitH are (piite naiiow, and many beauti-
ful and tliickly wooded islands dot the lovely harbor, while
ships of all nati .us, . iid war vessels hearing many different
'flags, lie at anchor in tlu quiet waters.

We were met at the wharf by our dear hrother, Mr. Lela-
cheur, and were glad to find him looking exceedingly well
after a year of heavy pressure both in toil antl suffering. Most
of our readers know that, accompanied hy M ' . Anderson, he
came out to Hong Kong and Singapore f(« th. nurpose of
finding an ni)i)r()ach to one of the group of islands in the
South Seas, vvheri! God seemed to be leading us to attempt to
plant a Mission, tiie island of Yai», th«^ most western of the
Caroline Islands.

After reaching Singapore it was found (hat Mr. Ander-
son had left New York, without the knowledge of the Board,
in a somewhat advanced stag*? of consiunption. In this
damp climate it developed very rapidly, and Mr. Lelacheur
found himself under the necessity of devoting nnich of his
time to the care of his suffering hrothei-, and deferring his
journey to the Islands until this great responsibility should,
in some way, be relieved. Meanwhile, however, ho gave as
much time as possible to the study of the Malay language,
and with so much success, that, already, even at his age, our
brother can speak it fairly, and has already given some
,1 J. :-es to the natives.

. few weeks ago Mr. Anderson's illness terminated
in hh> u.;ath, and Mr. Lelacheur had the satisfaction of know-

300

I. AUGER OUJ LOOK'S OX MfSSIONARY f.ANDS.

ing— a satisfaction in which wo all deeply shar*' -that noth-
ing was n('jj;lerte(l that fis necessary t<» the comfort of our
dear young hrother. During our stay in Snigapore, we
visited Richaid Anderson's grave in the English cemetery,
and took a few leaves from thohorder of ])retty flowers grow-
ing around it ; and we gave orders for the erection of a sim-
ple stone to mark the sacred spot where another precious life
is laid on tlie great altar of Moriah, as the phulge of another
land for God, through our dear Alliance. Many such graves
are already on the Congo, and many in the dark Soudan.
Surely there niust be a mighty harvest from such a costly
sowing. Two moic are on the Yang-tse River ; one lies in
loneliness at Kobe, in Jajjan ; one sleeps in btnvutiful Poona ;
one, beneath the ])alms of Singapore, claims the Malay
Peninsula for Jesus.

Dear young Richard Anderson was worthy to be a mis-
sionary martyr. He was a bright and earnest young Scotch-
Irish lad, whose call we remember v/ell. He had begun to
succeed la his httle business in New York, when the Lord
came to him and asked for all his heart, and then called him
to be a missionary. A few of us knew how much he sacri-
ficed to be able to affoi i to attend the College ; and when it
was found out that he was living in a cold and cheerless
room, and doing without the necessaries of life that he might
gain his object, it was no longer allowed, but measures
were taken for his assistance. He gave a very bright, and,
indeed, brilliant address at the College Commencement in
May, just a year ago, and was selected by the unanimous

AMONG THE M 'AYS.

301

r i.ANns.

are— that noth-
comfoit of our
Sinj^apore, we
iiglisli cometory,
ty flovvtu-a grow-
roction of a sirn-
her precious life
Itulgo of another
any such graves
10 (lark Soudan,
ni such a costly
vor ; (juo lies in
eautiful Poena ;
inis the Malay

•thy to ho a rais-
3t young Scotch-
[e had hegun to
, wheii the Lord

then called him
' much he sacri-
ge ; and when it
id and cheerless
fe that he might
d, but measures
'^ery bright, and,
mmencement in

the unanimous

vote of his fellow students for this honor. A good deal was
expected from his bright, young mind, his heroic and en-
thusiastic spirit, his deep piety and (Consecration, and his
stirring faith in Ood. But (Jod calls some to the plow and
some to the altar. The motto of the Knglish Baptist Mis-
sionary Society is an ox standing between an altar and a
plow, with the words inscribed on a scroll, "Ready for

either or both."

Before he passed away, Richard Anderson said to his
brother and companion that ho believ(ed that (Jod had re-
ceived from his life all the service for which He had called
him ; and, although he could not understand all His deahngs
with him, he could fully trust.

The only mistake he made, it seems to us all, was in not
frankly telling us his actual condition of health before he al-
lowed us to send him away to such a cUmate. Had we known
it we should not have sent him. Another case came before
us at the same time that he was appointed,— a lady who de-
sired to go to India but was physically unfit to go. She
desired, however, to trust the Lord for her healing, and she
was accepted on condition that she should be actually healed,
and be really in a condition to go before the time came. She
was in a far worse condition than our broOier, but she took
the Lord for it, and months before she needed to snil she was
thoroughly healed, and is now one of our healthiest, happiest,
and most promising missionaries in India. We trust that our
candidates will always be perfectly frank with us, and enable
us to counsel and help them, and avoid all needless risks.

g'7-ji i^»'p^-i»*^ --*■., 5 «.-^4?rtl

M ^ .i j' j ar . ' !.' gr*! ?r:Pivy yyw' f y i.k ■ ■ ' jj-u^« t i'(M-"jg<]^ ' i^*J4 '* y.*»H' !i g. ' ^- ' y^ '

i ii!i

:!!!

302 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSLONARY LAND^

We know that Mr. Anderson was perfectly sincere and can
did in his purpose. He really meant that, trustinj^ God for
his healing, he should not recognize the disease or symptoms.
It is true that we should steadily believe above our symptoms,
but it is also true that these symptoms should be actually re-
moved before we go to the field, and will be if we steadfastly
trust God. Faith in God is not only a " make believe," but
it also brings direct and definite results, and if God wants us
for a field He will surely give us the strength to go in such a
sense and measure as t(» satisfy every reasonable inquirer.

We spent three very pleasant days in Singapore, and saw
a good deal of the city, the people, the Christian and mission-
ary work of the country and, above all, the needs of the field
and the work to which the Lord is calhng us theie.

The first day was a Sabbath, and we were permitted to
preach in the Presbyterian and Methodist Episcopal Chapels,
and on Monday evening again in the latter place. The M. E.
Church of America has a Mission here, chiefly educational
and English, but with a work among the Chinese, and a Pub-
lishing and Printing Department, which has a Malay Branch.
We had the pleasure of meeting good Bishop Thoburn here,
whom we had missed in Calcutta. We saw a good der.l of him,
and thanked God for the wise, humble and thoroughly earn-
est, practical and capable man whom they have in charge of
their great work in India. It is a shame if such a church,
with such a work and such a leader, does not back himself in
a manner compared with which all they are doing now is but
as child's play.

tOtm

lincere and cau
rusting God for
iseor symptoms.
3 om* symptoms,
d be actually re-
if we steadfastly
ke believe," but
if God wants us
1 to go in such a
ible inquirer,
gapore, and saw
ian and mission-
leeds of the field

there.

ere permitted to
•iscopal Chapels,
ace. The M. E.
efly educational
aese, and a Pub-
a Malay Branch,
p Thoburn here,
;ood der.l of him,
horoughly earn-
ave in charge of
I such a church,

back himself in
ioing now is but

o
o

■n
m

z
H
>
H

S
>
r
>

HJUIJ.U ' l ' ilU.I'H ' V"g"

AMONG THE MALA YS.

303

We also met about a dozen of the missionaries ^f the
Methodist Episcopal Mission, and found them all busy for
Christ. They have several fine schools, a good English con-
gregation, and an excellent work among the Chinese. The
brother in charge of this, Dr. Luring, has given much assist-
ance to our missionaries, and is a man of rare gifts and char-
acter. He is a fine scholar, knowing Sanscrit, Malay, and
Chinese, besides other languages, and has the greatest sim-
plicity and singleness of heart. He has already translated
some of our Alliance tracts into Malay, and thus enabled Mr.
Lelacheur ^o preach to the Malays with our literature. Be-
sides the Presbyterian and Methodist Episcopal work, there
are no other missionaries here except our own.

On the following days we saw something of the city and
country. Singapore is a large and flourishing commercial
city, with a population of over 100,000, and an immense ship-
ping trade with all the world. It is just half way round the
world from New York, the difference in time being twelve
hours and ten minutes. It stretches out its arms in one
direction to xndia, Burmah, England and Europe-in another
to Australia and the islands, Borneo, Java, Sumatra, Celebes,
New Guinea, the Phihppines, and the thousands more which
cover the Archipelago, with their immense trade in all tropi-
cal productions ; and, in yet another direction, the trade
reaches away to Hong Kong, Saigon, Bankok, Shanghai, the
whole China Coast and Japan.

No city in the world has such a central location as Sing-
apore between East and West, as a sort of rendezvous for the

Ill*

304 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

ships of all nations. It is full of English and Scotch people,
and they are merchant princes, and live in great luxury. It
is full of Chinese, and their houses and stores crowd hun-
dreds of streets. And it is surrounded by Malays, the real
natives, of whom we shall speak shortly. There are great
numbers of Hindu Coolies from Madras and Bengal. There
are Dyaks from Borneo and from Celebes, and people from
all the Islands. And there are a good many Germans and
Dutch, who are the lords of Sumatra, Java, Celebes, and
Borneo, and have much trade passing through Singapore.

The climate is peculiar. Lying on or very near the
equator, it has, of course, the direct rays of the sun, and a»
you hold up your umbrella at noon, the shadow falls directly
at your feet and covers your whole person. We did not dare
to look up to see that fiery sun, which no European eye can
defy with impunity. But it is not nearly so hot as Northern
India, thirty degrees farther north, is in the hot season. It
is seldom one hundred degrees— indeed, rarely above ninety-
five in the shade. But it is always warm. There is no win-
ter, autumn or spring, but one everlasting monotony of heat,
just like our July weather continued forever. And then it is
moist heat— we would call it sweltering weather. The air is
saturated with vapor. It rains almost every day, and you
are in a steam bath all the time. We do not remember an
hour in Singapore when we were not in a profuse perspi-
ration. The rainfall is between sixty and seventy inches a
year, and in Berar, only between thi-ty and forty, notwith-
standing the heavy Monsoon rains in the lattei place. Such.

V LANDS.

id Scotch people,
;reat luxury. It
)res crowd hun-
Malays, the real
There are great
Bengal. There
md people from
ly Germans and
a, Celebes, and
;h Singapore,
very near the
the sun, and as
ow tails directly
We did not dare
iropean eye can.
hot as Northern
hot season. It.
y above ninety-
riiere i» no win-
>notony of heat,
And then it is
her. The air is

Y day, and you
3t remember an

profuse perspi-
eventy inches a
forty, notwith-
Bi place. Such

•~.u.»i*«».»^»«*'=^

; . imauw wwwgg ^Tgi.iiaf.'v a

IT
UJ

-I

>
<

AMOXG THE MAL^. VS.

305

a climate produces glorious vegetation, but involves a heavy
strain upon human life.

Cholera and small- pox are frequent visitors, and the
former v^as very bad at the time of our visit, and we had to
take the Lord to guard us from its breath. It had just car-
ried off the leading judge of the island, and we saw two
graves in the English cemetery where a husband and wife
had lain down within a few days of each other. Dear Brother
Lelacheui had a fierce attack of it while worn with waiting
on Mr. Anderson, and only the power of God carried him
through the great struggle. And yet Singapore is not an ex-
ceptionally unhealthy place, and, as compared with any
oriental city we have seen, it has some peculiar attractions.

The drive to the Botanical Gardens was very pleasant!
Perhaps nowhere in the world is there to be found such a col-
lection of tropical vegetation in its own native soil. Here
they are all classified and named and can be studied at leis-
ure. For example, in one section there is a group of all the
varieties of palms. Our readers w ould scarcely realize that
of these alone there were more than a scoix* wholly distinct.
We had alreaiy become familiar with the date palm, the
cocoanut palm, and the Palmyra palm ; but here were many
new ones. For example, we saw, for the first time, the
*' Travellers Palm," the most beautiful object ni a tropical
garden. It is just an immense fan, the handle growing up
about twenty or thirty feet, and then the branches spreading
out flat, like a great fan, often twenty feet in diameter, and
beautifiil beyond description. The leaves form a lot of little

_ii»o"jffi>K?it}:a!}a;

306 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

cups, and are always found full of water, so that ^''e tired
and thirsty iwlgrini always rejoices when lie hees a 'i .reveller's

Palm.

Then the Sago Palm is not only most beautiful but in-
valuable. They cut it down and split it open, and make out
of the pith and fibre a nourishing and delicious article of food.
A single tree will produce sago enough to feed a man a year.
There is another palm whose stems are of the most brilliant
crimson, with leaves of green, and it is a most picturesque

object.

Many of the trees are covered with orchids. They climb
and creep over the tree in every direction, and hang with the
most lovely blossoms. A visit to the orchid house in the Gar-
dens revealed hundreds of varieties. They have a strange
peculiarity in Singapore. All the orchids of a certain variety
bloom on the same day. The day of our arrival we saw great
quantities of a beautiful white blossom shaped just like a
white dove. Our friend told us it was the " Pigeon Orchid,"
and every one of them on Singapore Island was blooming to-
day, and to-morrow there would not be one to be seen, —
until, perhaps, two months later, when the next blooming day
would come, and so on all the year around. Then, he said,
in Java all the orchids of a certain kind would have their day
of bloom, and so, all over the Archipelago, on every island,
they had different days to bloom, and then the forests would
be hanging with their bright streamers and festoons.

There was no end to the niaf2;nificent ferns, the leaves of
some of them being nearly two yards long. Indeed, days

Si^l'^li^iaa

RV LANDS.

SO that *'ie tired
e sees a '1/'- seller's

, beautiful but in-
en, and make out
ous article of food.
Peed a man a year,
the most brilliant
, most picturesque

;hids. They cUmb
and hang with the
I house in the Gar-
ey have a strange
3f a certain variety
rrival we saw great
shaped just like a
i "Pigeon Orchid,"
i was blooming to-
one to be seen, —
next blooming day
id. Then, he said,
)uld have their day
JO, on every island,
1 the forests would
d festoons,
ferns, the leaves of
ong. Indeed, days

A.VO.\'(; Tin: MALAYS.

307

might have been spent in studying the curious and beautiful
works of God in this rich clime. In one corner of the Gar-
dens we found
a collection of
English roses,
c a V n a t ions,
])inks and ver-
benas ; but
they looked
lonely a n d
miserable, and
seemed like
exotics and
exiles far
from home,
and wo were
sorry to see
such a carica-
ture of our
humble and
welcome vis-
itors placed in
such humili-
ating contrast
with their
gorgeous
Southern sis-
ters. TROPICAL FOLIAGE, MALAY PENINSULA.

30S LAKcr.R ocTr.ooKS OX Mfssrox.iK r..4.\'h

Bu • want to speak of tho Mulu> ^ i)l»'. Wo had
visited tli. liom* of a new rac" Wo need not toll our readers
that the Malay po -plo form the fifth of tFi races >f mankind,
and aro essentialiy different from tao Mongolian, the Cauca-
sian, the :..'; .. id the Tndian.

Thin vi\v\', with its various fan\ii)i'S, numhers, we beliove,
about til irty inillionn, and ofcnpioa the Peninsula of Malacca,
and the • In- mLs lying south and east. They are usually su))-
posed to include th( Papuans or people of New Guinea and
the Australian Islands. They ai-e nearly all Mohammedans,
although 801. of them are of a niud*n-at.^ type. They speak
a good raanv difporent iguages ; thi; Sumatrans, the Javan-
ese, the Dyaks of Bo.ueo, the people o^ Celebes, the inhab-
itants of the Phihi)i ■ nes, Timor and N(- inea, each having
their distinct d riled. The Malay language proi)er is spoken
on the Malay Peniu ula, and the small islands lying contigu-
ous, and by many Malay villages that have been planted
along the shores of many of the larger islands.

Wo drove out into the country a few miles to see a genu-
ine Malay village. We had often heard of these people, and
of the strange way they built their houses over the water,
but we had always supposed a Malay village meant a filthy,
swampy settlement, where no one else could live in the damp,
unhealthy atmosphere. It was a genuine surprise to find that
a Malay village is constructed on the most perfect sanitary
principles, and may be the healthiest place in the world.
They select the side of a stream washed by the tide, and thev
build their houses on posts, about four feet above the ground.

f.AXlK

(pU». W(> had

tell our readers

ceH of I mankind,

Ian, the Cauca-

ers, we beliove,
lula of Malacca,
ire usually suj)-
Few Guinea and
Mohammedans,
)e. They speak
rans, the Javan-
ebes, the inhab-
lea, each having
.roper is spoken
s lying contigu-
.^e been planted

Bs to see a genu-
hese people, and
over the water,
meant a filthy,
ive in the damp,
prise to find that
perfect sanitary
;e in the world,
iie tide, and they
bove the ground.

•^'. " a- ,i -. , JW ii.

op,

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

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Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716) 872-4503

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Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques

AMONG THE MAL^DS.

hi^h

309
enough to be al)Ove

floor is soniewliat
sweepings and

© r j n s t
high tide. The
open, and all the
drainage just fall ^|p^^^H^^H ii^^<^> the water be-
low. And then ^B^^SflH|^^| tAvice a day, wheir
the tide rises, Old ^^,- \^^^^^K Neptune comes,
witliout the sliglit- ^^Hlpi^'^^^^H est ex]>ense to the
family. and washes ^^^' '^^^^^^ all the filth and re-
fuse away and ^^B ^^jK^^^^R leaves the neigh-
borhood as sweet ^^I^^^^^^^H ^^^^ clean r... the
strand. ^^K^^^l^l^l ^^^^' walked a-

I'ound a lot of these ^^^^^^^HIH houses at low tide
and found the ^^|^^^^^^^H ground clean and
dry, and covered ^^^^^|^^^^|

All the ^^^^^^^^BIh houses of the
]age are connected H^^^H||H^| ^.V P^^uk walks or
X)osts as high as the a Sumatra woman. houses, so that you

can walk from house to house even at full tide. In short, it is a
sort of Venice in miniature. Our local friends told us that it was
decidedly the best way to build a house in a Malay town, and
that they would recommend our missionaries always to live
in just such houses. A very fine Malay house of this kind,
of native materials, and with I'oom for three or foui' persons,
can bo built for less than S'200 in gold, which is certainly very
cheap, much cheaper than anything we can build in India,
even with its low ])rices.

We were informed by Dr. lairing, who has given much
study to the people who speak the Malay language propor,

3IO

LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSION ARY LANDS

AMONG THE MALAYS.

there fa at present no missionary work whatever unto a
ftXlnt sUty. The Methodist work in Sn.gapore .s not

IJXDS.

XCs'Ti

^'hatever under a
L Singapore is not

./j/OAv/ '/■///■; .y.ir.ivs.

,11

among thoni, but is confintMl to Englisli and Chinese. The
(German and Dutch societies are laboring on Sumatra, Java,
and Celebes, but these people do not speak Malay, but a local
dialect. And so this great people and tongue are wholly
r.eglected at the present time, and calling to ns to send them
the Gospel. It is true that Malacca has been a Mission centre.
It was here that all the Chinese societies began. But it has
always been a centre for points beyond itself. It was the
base of operations where the missionaries learn(>d the Cliinese
language, and then, on the opening of the Chinese ports,
poured their workers into China, and left the Malays; still

unevangeli/.ed.

This really does seem to be an open and a needy field.
Our dev. biotlier, Mr. Lelacheur, has learned this language
and has this people nuuh upon his heart. He and Dr. Lur-
ing told us of many points that could at once bo occupied at
very moderate expense. There are three Malay villages
a few miles from the city of Singapore. There is a cluster of
Malay villages • ut fourteen miles down the Straits. Then
there is th(^ lar^. - '■ v,^ state and city of Jahoreo occupying,
perhaps, two hnndred miles along the gulf, and whose Sultan
is a graduate of a Missimi school, and friendly to Missi.ms.
This whole state- which is under British protection, and the
chief ofUcerof which is himself a Christian, is without a mis-
sionary. These are but some of the Malay openings in the
immediate vicinity of Singapore, while on Sumatra and the
other islands, there iire many Malay-speaking villages that
have no voice to tell them of Jesus.

:iT2

LARGER OUTLOOKS OX .V/SSVOX.IRV f.AXDS.

This does seem to us, after prayerful consiaeration, to be
(.ne of the fields to which we should send u few Avorkers very

isoon.

Tlien, from Singapore, it is but a short distance, with
direct comuuxnicatiou by steamer, to the great Kingdom of
Anam with its twenty millions of people without a single
nussionarv. Singapore is the natural centre for this, also, at
l)i'csent at least. We weiv repaid for our whole journey by
learning, we think without doubt, that Anam is really open
for our missionaries. A young Spanish colporter has recently
sold Bibles along the whole coast, and has stated that he has
the fullest liberty to labor within the whole kingdom. V7e
trust that as little time as j.ossible will be lost in getting
even a small beginning in Saigon, the capital of Anam.

But what about the Islands of the Sea, and especially the
Caroline Islands, which were the direct goal for which we
went to Singapore ? Well, this has not been lost sight of,
and. we l)elieve, will also be reached from Singapore.

Our brethren Avere hindered by Mr. Anderson's illness
from attempting the long voyage necessary to reach these
Islands: but, meanwhile, careful investigations have been
going on. and it is believed that a direct line of monthly
steamers has been found from Siugapti-e to the Sulu Islands,
from the Sulus to Mandinao. and from Mandinao to Yap,
which is the island we have aimed to reach. But in reaching
it, we niay also be able to reach two other groups near to it,
and that are as destitute and uuevangelized as Yap is.

Mr. Lelacheur has had an excellent local work in Singa-

ration, to be
vorkers very-
stance, with

Kingdom of
out a single
tliis, also, at
e journey by
s really open

has recently
[1 that he has
ngdom. We
st in getting

Anani.
especially the
foi- which we
lost sight of,
,pore.

arson's illness
o reach these
IS have been
e of monthly

Sulu Islands,
iinao to Yap,
ut in reaching
ups near to it,
Yap is.
vork in Singa-

AMOXa THE MALAYS.

313

port' among the En^lisli-speaking people. His life and testi-
mony among tlie English Christians and missionaries have
heen true, manly, and most hlessed. He has won for himself
and (jur work the respec;t and conftdenee of all the other
workers. Amid trying circumstances he has stood consist-
ently and bravely, and (rod has given us in him a leader of
tried faith, deep convictions, practical wisdom and experi-
ence, and fearless courage, such as we cannot always find,
and greatly n(>ed in such new fields.

He has had a most excellent work among a luimher of
young men and women, who meet with liim in evangehstic
street meetings, and are doing glorious work for God.

The need of English work is very great in Singapore.
Our friends took us one night down Malay Street, and we
would not dare to describe too vividly the scenes we saw,
and yet it is good for us to know something of this world's
dark side. Every house in the long street, on both sides, was
crowded in the open fronts with abandoned women of every
nation under heaven, and they not only stood and sat on the
open verandas, but swarmed in the middle of the street,
taking hold of every i)asser-by, and, literally, almost drag-
ging them to their der They were in all the costumes of
all the races, and they »!. oated and shrieked, in nearly all the
languages under heaven, their calls to the passer-by And up
and down, and in and out, were passing hundreds of Euro-
pean men— sailors and soldiers, officers, low and even high,
without shame or eifort at concealment.

On this street our brother holds a Gospel meeting every

314 LARGF.K OUTLOOKS OX MrSSfO.XAHV LAXPS.

week u.ul with his voice of thun.l.r he pvoclai.ns the Wor.l
of God to these wicked men, and points his finder at thcnv m
the Bight of all the people, as the men that are nuikin^ th.
name of Christianity to he .Icspised among the heathen. He
tedls lis that the street is usually .leared within a few nun-
utes after he hegins, an,l these scou.ulrels are glad to get
away from the sound of his voi.-e. G..dhlesshim n. lushravu
and dithcult work, and let not a morhid sensitiveness make
us afraid to see and meet these awful needs.

But we saw a sadder sight in 8ingapon> than evn
Malay Street. Our good nussiouary friends t..ok us to see

the Chinese opium dens. En-
tering an onhnary slio^) door,

we were ushered into a room,

ahout thirty feet long and

tifteen feet wide, with a long

tahle on each side running

the whole length of the room,

and a iJassage hetvveen, ahout

a yard wide. Th«>s(> long ta-

hles were covered with cheap

mats, and <.n these the China-
men win'e lying- snmking or

sleeping. Our friend could
talk to them in Chinese and

we got a very good idt>a of
the way these poor fellows
felt ahout it. They were (piite

A CHINESE PEDDLER, SINGAPORE.

^-?

V7J6.

AMONG Till. MALAYS,

315

s the Word
■at thorn in
iiiiikiiit; the
athcn. Ho
ji few iniii-
^l:i(l tit gft
in hiH bravo
eness luako

B than even
V us to see

1, SINGAPORE.

willing to talk, and received us kindly, and i>tfercd ns
tea. They seemed to re-spect him very nmeh, and let him
talk freely to them. W(* asked them many (|ueHtinns through
him, and they were jierfectly frank and opt'ii in their an-
swers.

Here are some cjuestions and answers:

" How nuichdoyou siM-nd on opium ;" •" Ahout seventy
cents a day." " How much do you earn C "\ sj.-nd all [
earn ! " Another said he earned thirty cents a day. and spent
forty on opium. Another, who spent all his income on it,
said he did not save anything for food. We asked him if he
was married. He said he had a wife and fanuly Ikmv. He
did not make any provision for them.

Wt> asked another if it mado him luqtpy. He laughed
bitterly and said -''No," he could not afford to huy enough
to make him happy. He was just able to drown a littl<; of his
misery. He asked them how long they stayed in tli.'se
places. They said, "All night."' They just smoked till they
fell asleep and then lay there till morning, often they
awoke in the night, and had to get more, so they had to stay
there whei-e they could get it. We asked them if they would
like to give it up, and they all said " Yes,' if God would give
them the power to do it, l)ut they did not have the courage.

Our friend jireached the Gospel to them, and they listened
with earnest, kind faces, that made our very hearts bleed,
and when we got through they just went on smoking again,
and seemed to sink back into di'spair. We asked him how
many of the Chinese of Singapore indulge in this habit, and

I.ARCI-K OCTl.OOh'S OX MrSSlOXARV I..1XDS.

lu. Hiiid at least oighty out of I'vevy huiuliod. We were
iippnlUHl. And w«» fi'lt that tlu' do- ^ was an awful master,
and tho power of Omnipotence alone could break this chain.
Many of the men hlamed our governnjent for providing
opium, and their feeble voices were but echoes of God's
tn'm.'ndous judgment, when some day the ([Uestion shall be
asked, " Who sU'W tliese souls t"

\V(> looked at their emaciated bodies andgaimt faces, and
thought of hou- it would all end. and we asked them how it
was going to end. And they said they believed they would
go to heaven, for fhvii ahraijs imid for the opium then used!
Poor, lost, human souls ! Oh, let us pray for the heathen.
How we wislu'd we could speak to tliein ! How we longed to
take them in our arms, and make them feel the love and
].ower of the One that alone can save the slave of opium and
the captive of Satan.

And this is only the beginning of China. Away beyond
these stretch the mighty plains, where four hundred millions
of these bright, strong, capable minds and hearts are bound
in yet stronger chains of darkness and despair.

Lord, hel)) the heathen ! Lord, haste Thy coming !

XDS.

Wo were
fill master,

tliiH cluiin.
• pioviding
?8 of God's
ion shall bo

XVIII.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF SOUTHERN CHINA.

it faces, awd
lu'iu how it
thoy would
I thci/ used !
he heathen,
ve longed to
he love and
oi)iuni and

way beyond
Ired niillions
;8 are bound

ning !

WK HAVE just spent about ten days in Southern
Cliina, chiotly in llong Kong, Canton and vicinity,
and have met many of the missionaries and a
number of other persons interested in and a((|iiainted with
this field. Wo have given mu' li careful study to this vast
region, with its distinct dialect, its numerous great cities and
its three provinces, containing a population of over ;}i»,O0U,-
U()0, and we are beginning to have some adequate conception
of its needs as a mission field, and its claims upon the church
of Christ.

We had a slow and somewhat tedious voyage of nearly a
week from Singapore on one of the oldest ships of the P. &
0. line. They only run their best ships, as a rule, to Bombay
and Colombo, and transfer their passengers for China to in-
ferior boats. We had n good many passengers, including
some very pleasant Chiistian friends, among others Kev. Dr.
Ridgeway, President of the Methodist Episcopal Theological
Seminary, Evanston, and his wife, Col. and Mrs. Waller, of
India, and Rev. Dr. West and family, of Singapore Metho-
dist Episcopal Mission.

We had a daily Bible reading in the ct*bin and Sabbath

3«7

^iS LARGER OrTLOOKS OX MISSIONARY LANDS.

services. On Sabbath e%-ening we had the opportunity of
^])eakir,g a few words for Christ, and at the close of the ser-
vice we got a good introduction to a class of men wliom we
had met a good many times already in the East, raid who
form a verv distinct and influential class in the seaport towns
of China and Japan. They are the English abroad, and, we
are sorry to say, that many of them are the worst people m
the East, and the worst enemies of Christianity and Chris-
tian Missions.

We had spoken <iuite plainly in our address on Sabbath
evening, and as we left tlie saloon we were a.;<-osted by a
crowd of men, all first-class passengers and supposed to be
gentlemen, with a lot of insulting (juestions about Christians
and missionaries. Some of them were young men on tlien-
way to business and official appointments in China ; others
were older men in business in the East. One of them was a
man between fifty and sixty years of age, the father of two
very nice looking voung ladies, who were travelhng as i)as-
sengers on the steamer. He was the rudest and loudest of

all the crowd.

They began by denouncing missionaries as the worst
men in China, charging them with the basest crimes, as well
as selfish luxury and all sorts of things, and they said that
they were universally hated by the Chinese and the English,
and other foreigners wherever they lived. We ventured to
suggest, amid the loud words of the crowd, that, perhaps,
the reason the missionaries were hated so much by the for-
eigners and English, was because they told them some plain

AMDS.

iportunity of
e of the sei'-
en whom we
ast, and who
seaport towns
foad, and, we
rst people in
ty and Chris-
es on Sabbath
acf.'osted by a
ipposed to be
)ut Christians
men on their
China ; others
f them was a
father of two
eUing as i)as-
md loudest of

as the worst
L'riraes, as well
:hey said that
d the English,
re ventured to
that, perhaps,
ich by the for-
em some plain

iH^

Ffh-ST /M/'A'F.SSIO.\S OF SOI TlfFA'X (7//.V.1.

3^9

,i.^ o Minmnti.lilii

Veifrt o/(, Gobi
C

2i aA '^•''^!:^ — ilTS.Canton y'^yi--- -':.■■'

/*^-: ■ -■ ■ . ■ . ;, •■

truths about the shaniefid way they lived among the heathen,
and we told them that we had seen a good many Englishmen
(in Malay Street, Singapore, in very bad comi)any.

Tlien th. y
laughed in
nur face, and
told us that
they them
selves were
there, and
( t-ybody
went, and it
Avasall right
to go, and
the old man,
partic u 1 a r
ly. boasted
that he had
a perfect
right to go ;
lie was made
with these
jtassionsand
appe t i t e s,
and it was

intended :hat he should indulge them. We asked him what*
he would tViink of his daughters doing so, and suggested that
if it was all right for a man it was just as right for his wife

S ^ i

MAP OF EASTERN ASIA.

320 I.ARCr.R OCTLOOKS OX MISSIONARY LANDS.

and his child. He said of course it was, and his daughters
had the right to do the same if they wanted to. We were so
disgusted that, after trying in vain to say some earnest
words to this crowd of first-class ruffians, who literally gloried
in their shame, we turned away with a few words of solenm
warning, and got alone undei- the stars of heaven to talk
to God ahout something worse than even heathenism in
China. This is the element amid which, with, of course,
some heautiful exceptions, many of our missionaries have to
commend Christ and Christianity to the people of China
with these object lessons before their eyes.

On Monday morning we found ourselves in the harbor of
Hong Kong. This island, with the beautiful city of Victoria, '
forms one of the most striking harbor views in the world, and
as you go ashore and visit the various points of the island
your first impressions are confirmed in every way.

The heat is moderate, never approaching tlie summer
temperature of India, and seldom exceeding ninety degrees
in the hottest weather, or going below forty-five degrees in
the cold season. The vegetation is very rich, and, while not
nearly so tropical as Singapore, yet it is quite luxuriant, and
the hills and valleys are a mass of Uving green. The streets
and roads that wind about the hills are beautifully shaded
with avenues of fine trees, and the ferns literally swarm on
every hillside. There are over one hundred varieties of ferns
indigenous tc the island, and the moisture of the climate
keeps them ever fresh and beautiful.

Immediately back of the landing wharf and the city, the

» t u rn

\NDS.

lis (laughters
We were so
lonie earnest
orally gloried
■ds of solemn
aven to talk
iathenism in
h, of course,
laries liave to
pie of China

the liarhorof
y of Victoria, '
,he world, and
of the island
ay.

the summer
linety degrees
ve degrees in
md, while not
iixuriant, and
. The streets
tifuUy shaded
illy swarm on
ieties of ferns
if the climate

d the city, the

flT"

/■VA'sv i.vrRESsrojWs of southf.rx i inx. i. ^21

Peak I'ises to a lieijjjht of 2,000 feet, and It'sscr lulls surrouiiil
it on every side, but the nearness and boldness of these hills
give them a greater apparent heij:,ht, and they staiul like
gigantic shoulders in tlu; backgroinid. At their base and np
their sides many handsome buildings rise in teri'aces of

z
o

Vii

nV>

H- i

■n'^

Ibd.yl^

STREET IN HONQ KONQ.

streets, presenting a line appearance. The architecture is
well adapted to the climate and scenery. Government House
is half way up the hill, and the Botanical Gardens, with some
fine trees and plants, a little higher up. There is a tramway
leading almost to the summit, and the view from the Peak
over the harbor and islands is superb. The view from below,

322 J.Ah'CI-.l'! OfTl.OOKS OX .irfSSfOWl RV r.AXDS.

at night, Avheii tiers upon tiers of light encircle the gigantic
hill almost to its sunnnit, is extremely grand.

The population is about i;40,000, of whom H,5(Kiare Euro-
])eans and Amei-icans, and ll(),f)Of» Chinese, and the rest of
them Asiatics. The trade is enormous, exceeding ^-JoOjOOO,-
000. The ])oimlation has increased one-third in the last ten
years, and the business of the place is evidently extremely
prosperous. Its shipping and telegraphic conmiunications
touch almost every part of the world, and, like Singapore, it
is a sort of rendezvous for the commerce, l)oth of the eastern
and western nations. It is the eastern boundary of Great
Britain's wonderful Empire, and one of her most beautiful
and prosperous colonies. She has held the island since 1841,
and it is the base of hei- military and naval movements in
the East, and the point from which she is able to enforce
upon the haughty Ch.inese the observance of their treaties,
and the rights of British and other foreign citizens abroad.

Hong Kong, while not directly a missionary field, at least
in the same sense as Canton, is a missionary centre, and the
headquarters of many of the missionary societies for South-
ern China, especially the Church Missionary Society, the
Basil Missionary Society, and the London Missionary Society,
some of which we had the privilege of visiting.

But our objective point was not Hong Kong, but In-
terior China. And so, the day following our arrival at Hong
Kong found us on board the fine steamer, " Hankow," sail-
ing through a multitude of beautiful islands at the mouth of
the Pearl River, and then up that fair river to Canton. The

i*i.

! .- ^i^MHWnti-anjii)

■ L.tXDS.

I 8,5(H)aroEuro-
and the rest of
edinj? ,^-J<)(»,000,-
1 in the last ten
ently extremely
c^ommunications
ike Singapore, it
,h of the eastern
mdary of Great
r most beautiful
sland since 1S41,
il movements in

able to enforce
)i their treaties,
itizeiis abroad,
ary field, at least
y centre, and the
lieties for South-
ary Society, the
issionary Society,
ng.

ig Kong, but In-
r arrival at Hong
"Hankow," sail-
; at the mouth of

to Canton. The

FIRST IMPRESSrOXS OF SOCTIIEh'X CHINA.

323

picture was a pretty one. The islands and shores were
clothed with ridiest green — the finest shades we have seen
in the East. The entrance is through the Tiger Pass, be-
tween two promontories which the Chinese have crowned
with tw(j i)ag()das to keep tlie strong current of the river
from carrying the good luck it bears from the interior out
to the sea, and so losing thes(! jjrecious influences to the
country. Undulating plains and distant hills, with many
intersecting canals and streams, and waving fields of young
rice of the most brilliant green, spread out on either shore.
Here and there a handsome pagoda rises, some as high as
nine stories ; and, occasionally, a sfpiare tower is seen, de-
signed to bring good luck and success to the literary candi-
dates from this village or neighborhood. Myriads of graves
cover many of the hillsides, every one being located on wliat
the Chinese oracles had pronounced a " lucky " spot ; for to
be buried in "a lucky grave,'' and to be worshi])])ed by his
children and posterity, is one of the highest ambitions of a
Chinaman. The scenery of the Pearl River from Hong Kong
to Canton is not unlike the Hudson, and in some respects is
quite as pretty.

A sail of eighty miles brings us to Canton. An immense
forest of masts ; miles of small boats of every size and
shape, roofed over with matting and filled with families of
women and children, who live in them all their lives ; a great
expanse of low-roofed houses stretching along the river front
and reaching back to the hills beyond ; one or two English -
looking church spires ; a lofty native pagoda in the distance ;

.rur"'

324

I..IR(;/:R O/T/.OOAS ox M/SSfOXARV LANDS.

a few nine-story, sciuare buiMings, ovoi-topping the rest, anrl
standing out all over tin; city like the new Chicago castles in the
air ; and there, at the landing, a great swarm of Chinesci men,
women and children, and one familiar face, waiting on the
jetty to w(>lcome us -this was our first view of Canton, the
capital of (^uan-tnng Province, the metropolis of Southern
China, and almost the largest <ity in the Chinese Empire.
What its population actually is no one can .accurately tell.
Those who have the best right to know estimate it at between
one and two millions at least.

Perhaps one-fourth of the popidation live always on the
water. Their houses are little boats, roofed with matting,
and arranged with a simi>le kitchen in the rear, a little cabin
in the front, where the family live and die, eat and deep, and
find both their residence and means of livelihood. The front
cabin is a sleeping place at night, and during the day a place
for passengers to sit while they are ferried l)y the Chinese
family, for a few cents, across or up and down the river or

canals.

These boats all have a i)lace to moor at night, and this is
theirs by right, and the only local habitation they ever know.
They may go ashore to labor, and the father often does dur-
ing the day, but they nuist live on the water. The little girl
that is born on the water must die on it. She dare not marry
a shoreman, or ever leave this class of river people. She may,
and indeed does, many some Chinaman, but it must be a
river man, who will take her to live on some other little boat.

The female members of the family do most of the row-

the rest, antl
>castlosintlie
Chinosii men,
Liiting on the
I Canton, the

of Southern
ncse Empire,
curutc'ly tell.
3 it at between

iilways on the
with matting,
, a little cabin
and Bleep, and
h1. Tlie front
lie day a place
- the Chinese
n tho river or

,lit, and this is
ley ever know,
ften does dur-
The little girl
laie not marry
pie. She may,
t it must be a
ther little boat.
5t of the row-

FfRST lArPRKSSfOXS OF So/ ■/•///: A'X I7//X.I.

325

.^^^■■i^

."." .

■i^l-,.:.-..

,;-'^- 1

-^-v

■r:::%

ing AN'e had to cross on these boats inany times whihMii

Canton, hut it was seldom that we could j;<'t a man ; usually

an old woman stood in the stern and worked the scull oars,

and two or three young girls in front pulled tho other oars,

■while two or three of

us sAt in the cabin,

and watched tlu>ir

pleasant faces and

firm muscles as they

jmlled the oars with

the strc^ngth of men.

Thousands— yes, tens

of t h o u s a n d s — of

these boats line the

shores of the river

and its numerous

canals, and a high

official told us that

perhaps one-fourth

of the peoi)le liv(>d in

them.

It was a great
pleasure once more
to meet our dear nus-

sionaries, Mr. and ]Mis. Keeves, and their native assistant,
Fung W5n, and to find them well and happy in their new
field. We spcnit nearly a week in their hosjiitable little
home, and had manv hallowed sea.sons of conference and

BOAT GIRL.

326 LARcr.R orr LOOKS ox AffssroxARV i.Axns.

prayer respecting thi' great Wi.rk for which th.'y luul come,
and also many opportunities of nu'.'ting the other mission-
aries in Canton, and of seeing the city an.l surroumUng

country.

We sluill tirst give a few sketches of th(! country and
people, and then refer to the missionary work. •

Our first visit was to the foreign quarter. This is a

FOREIGN SETTLEMENT, CANTON.

pretty little island called " Shameen," which is detached from
the native city and assigned io the English, French, Ameri-
cans and other foreigners for their residence. It was fitted
up hy the Chinese Imperial authorities at a cost of nearly a
quarter of a million dollars. It is very neat and pretty, and
free from the odors- and other disagreeahle things that infest
all Chinese citi(>s. Here are the foreign consulates and th.^
homes of most of the Missions, including our own. We had the

u'y hiul come,
)th<'i- niission-
l smroundiiif;

9 country and

er. This is a

mletachcd from
French, Anieri-
■. It was fitted
;ost of nearly a
and i)rotty, and
ings that infest
isulates and tht^
wii. We had the

/■//,".s •/■ /.i//7.7;.W(^\.s- <>/■' .sof ////■AX < /// \ . '. 327

pleasure of meeting tlio American Consul here, a gentleman
who haH Hpent tt-n years in Canton in olVuial service, and
whoso removal at this tini.' wnnld 1... deeply rcKiott.'d l.v .dl
th«i missionari(>s.

It is a most critical time in China. The reckless course
of the American Congress in their Anti-Chinese legislation
is at length heginning to react in China, and only a few days
ago, here in Canton, a native pai)er holdly advocated tli.'
policy of retaliation, and proposed that if America expelle.i
the Chinese, China should undouhtedly expid every American
from her shores. At such a time it is easy for a popular dis-
turhance to arise at any moment ; and, therefore, the pres-
ence in China of an American representative of Mr. Sey-
mour's experience and high standing with the Chinese
officials, is of much more value and importance than any
question of political expedienc-y incident to a change of par-
ties at the White House.

Our next visit was to the native city. The first impres-
sion a stranger has of the streets of Canton is the thronging
crowd. What myriads of human heings, i)ushing, jostling,
shouting, tramping on-on-<.n, with their curious, various
loads and costumes and faces, through those narrow, c-rowdi'd
passages evermore. Go where you will, it is ever the same
dense, teeming crowd. You can gather a moh of thousands
in any part of Canton inside of three minutes. You have
but to stand on the street, and they are around you so thick
that you can scarcely move. You have hut to enter a store,
and you have a score to witness youi' bargain and in^p(>ct

/..if?f;/-A' orn.ooks ov .VAsvArv.//.-)' /..;.v/'.9.

your punlmsc. V<mi have hiii {n look ai'ouiid. aiul voic*!^ are
iiMuir, " rikslia." "cliair," "Coolie," which nicaurt. "Do you
want fi jiiuiksha, or a Sedan ehair, or a Coolie i"

And what strange niixtnres are in that crowd! Here
i-onie three hearers carrying a Sedan chair, with a lady in-
Hide, carefnlly curtained fioin view. Ih-re conici a water
carrier, with his two great vessels of wal'M- l>nlan<evl on Ji
hanihoo ])ole over liis shoulders. Here is another man. with
two haskots similarly halanced, containing a nice fat dog in
one and several cats in the other ; ol ••ourse. they aie for the
cat and dog market, which we will soon reach. Hero are
two Chinamen carrying an enormous pig in a hasket, hung
from a long hamhoo pole. And as they all go dashing on,
they are shouting and screaming to clear the way, and eveiy
l-edestrian is expected to make Avay. The first time we went
through the streets, we, too. had a chair, and our ruiuiers
screamed as loudly as the others, and the ix.'ople tuined aside
and made room, and then stood a moment, and said, one to
the other, "Foreign devils!" At othjr times we walked
more leisurely, and let the strange scenes slowly fix tlunn
shelves on our imagination.

Then one is struck with the narrow streets. We liave
seen narrow streets in Jerusalem and Cairo, hut never such
.streets as these. Why, some places they are not more than
four feet wide, and we need not say that no wlu'eled vehidis
not even the nan.w jinriksha, ever ])assed through these

lahyrinths.

Then the s.'m.Js. Tiu-y are ot all sorts. There are re-

/../.\7>.V.

iuid v<)ic«w aie
■aurt. "Do you

riowd 1 ]U'Vii
ith a liuly iii-
Diiio* a watiT
Kilaiic**! (»n a
lor man. with
ico fat (loK ill
ley are for the
ih. Hore are
I haskot, hung
;o (lashing on,
'ay, and t-vcry
thjic Nvt^ wont
1 our runners
le tuined asido
lid said, one to
OH wo walked
wly fix tlieni-

ets. Wo have
lut novor suoh
not inoro tlian
hoolod vehicle,
through these

Tlicro are re-

FI k'ST IMPh'ESSIOXS OF SOITIIERN CHINA.

329

liginus smells, from inct'iise tapers and burning papers, and
there are the most vicious odors conceivable from foul ac-
cumulations and fetid markets, and decaying fish and veget-
ables, and crowded shops and tenements. And yet the worst
8t]'eet in Canton is a i)aradise to one of the temples of
Benares.

CHINESE TEMPLE, CANTON.

Of course we went to the " Temi)le of the Five Hundred
Gods," and saw the coarse and jovial-looking deities in brass ;
images which looked much more nKw a crowd of jolly Dutch-
men in a lagor beer saloon than anything divine or even
Chinese. Two of the five hundred wore near the entrance,
and they had their arms full of babies, and they seemed to

I ill

330 I-ARGili: OITLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

be the favorites, for their shrines were full of burning in-
cense, pl.'uxMl there by their worshippers.

At the "Temple of Longevity" there were several huge
deities in brass, who nuist have lived a long time to grow so
big, but they all had the same jovial look of coarse animal
enjoyment, showing the Chinaman's liighest ideal of a supe-
rior being in a very humbling light. At this temple the crowd
was very rough, and two of us received slight blows from
some young rascal in tho mob, but no serious injury. We
had a lady with us, and she was the occasion of most of the
excitement and curiosity. For a lady to appear publicly on
the streets of C'l.ina is very unusual, and the fi-eedom of
Europeans always attract;: much attention.

The "Temple of Horrors" is also one of the sights of
Canton. It contains a number of representations t)f future
punishment, that are vivid enough to make even a Chinaman
sober. Each little chapel contains certain representations of
the torments of the dannied. In one they are being boiled
in oil, in another encased in a hollow tree and sawn asunder
down the whole length of the timber, and so on through a
dozen different progressions of every conceivable torture. In
each scene the god of the lower world is represented in some
horrible form, and the poor culprits who are waiting for
their turn are standing in the background with nuich con-
cern and terror depicted on their faces. This temple is
farmed out every year to a speculator who pays a large rent
for it, and receives all the offerings of the worshippers m re-
turn, and, it is said, always makes a fortune out of it. The

HIH(.i41»JifS

. LV/)S.

' burning in-

sov(3ial huge
le to grow so
oarse animal
;al of a supe-
ple the crowd
t blows from
. injury. We
f most of tlie
ir publicly on
le freedom of

the sights of
ons of future
n a (Hiinaman
esentations of
> being boiled
sawn asunder

vn through a
le torture, lu
iented in some
e waiting for
th nuich cou-
'his temple is
ys a large rent
■shippers in re-
.utof it. The

F//^sT i.vrR/:ssio\s ( >/■• sorrHr.h'X c his A. 33 1

practical Chinaman is not unwilling tonmke money even out
of a subject so horrible. The place was full of nmney
cha.^'ers'and various professions and offices, and seemed a
strange mixture of sordid avarice an ^ ghastly superstition.

The public execution grounds were not much less revolt-
ing Here is an open triangular piec ; of vacant ground, with
a number of large crosses leaning against the wall, where not
less than three hundred persons every week, on an average,
are publicly executed.
One of the execution-
ers, a brutal-looking
creature, wanted to
show us the swords
they use, but we c(Hild
not stand this. Here,
men and women are
tortured to death at
the rate of ir),<'(>o a
year, in the name of
justice. They are

sometimes fastened to thes(^ crosses and hacked to pieces as
they hang there ; sometimes sliced into a dozen pieces and
slowly tortured to death, and sometimes more mercifully
beheaded or strangled at once.

In China anv man may be arrested on suspicion and
lodged in jail, and when hi. trial comes off there is no lawyer
to defend him ; lawyers are unknown in China ; but he must
plead his own cause before a magistrate, who is always open

CHINESE MODP, OF PUNISHMENT.

iii

T^T,! i.ARcr.R (wn Diik's OX .u/ssrox.iRY L.ixns.

to luibeiy, and from wlioso docisioii Ihoic is no appeal.
Every accused i)Oison is l>(>uiid to prove his innocence, and,
milike English law, is assujninl to he jiuilty, unless he can do
so. Unless an accused ])erson has money he rarely escapes
(ondenniatiou. Tliousands of innocent i)ersons languish in
])riso;i without a hearing, or die on the execution grounds as
hrutes, and there is none to help or i)ity. and the great crowd
rushes on and misses them not. If Solomon had seen Canton
lie could not liave given a h(>tter account of it than his sad
refiaiu over human wrongs : '"So 1 leturned, and considered
all the oppi-essions that are done under the sun : and behold
the teai'S of such as Avei-e op])ressed and th(^y had no com-
forter ; and on the side of tlieir oppressors there was power,
])ut they liad no comforter. Wherefore, I praised the dead
whicli ai-e already dead, more tliau the living which are yet
alive."

Our circuit led us out througli tlie city gate to a lofty
lull on which stands tlie Five Story Pagoda, and from the top
of this we got a good view of the great city below us, Avith
its almost countless houses, apparently built in one solid
ma.ss, with just a nai-row path between them. These high
buildings, that I'ise here and there to eight or nine stoi'ies, are
the pawn shops, and in their ui)per stories are the accumu-
lated pledges of years, on which money has been loaned at
exorbitant interest, and, in almost every case, they become
at last the property of the money lender. These men are the
millionaires of China, and in these odd tower-like places are
treasiu'es of great value.

I a!JWIUllli,l.>(llWIULJt.JJW.i » •

lA'DS.

/■VA'SV /.U/'A'/.SS/O.VS (>/' SiU-f/f/.hW < /f/\.i.

1 '^ -^

no appeal,
ocence, and,
!ss ho can do
ri'ly escapes

laiif^uish in
a j^rounds as
great crowd
seen Canton
;han Lis sad
d considered
: and behold
had no com-
) was power,
ed the dead
liich are yet

te to a lofty
from the top
low us, with
in one solid
These high
16 stories, are
the accuniu-
jen loaned at
they become
! men are the
ke places are

Yonder, in the distance, is the Roman CathuUc church,
with two great spires ch^aving tlic sky. wliich have been a
constant offence to the C'liinese, vvlio hate any sharp point in
the air, because, they say. it obstructs the Dragon as he flies,
and makes him angry. Tliey would have torn down the old
Cathedral long ago had it not been for foreign i)rotection.

Here, just under us, are far-extended hillsides covered
with the graves of many generations. On several of them
we can see the fires burning where incense has just been
offered, and ])aper money burned, that it may go to tliem in
smoke and become^ currency for them in the other world. On
others there are great offerings of rice, or sometimes a fowl
or a piece of meat, whicli the poor Chinaman really needs for
himself, but offers instead to his deceased father, and expects
the spirits to carry it off that night, and give it to him. It
usually does disappear before morning, but it is into the
mouth of some hungry Chinaman or wandering Pariah dog.
They also burn over the graves suits of ])aper clothes for
their departed friends to wear. You can buy these suits in
the stores, but you nuist not be surprised if the trousers have
only one leg and the tunic one side. As it is only a spiritual
transaction, the Chinaman believes that half a coat will rep-
resent a suit as well as a whole one, and there is no harm in
saving even that nuich tissue paper. Indeed, they have an
idea that they can cheat the gods ; and so we heard, the other
day, of a little girl that had a boy's name, and the mother
said in explanation, "You know the gods don't like little
girls, and so we want tliein to think this is a little boy, and

334

I.ARCr.R Ol -I LOOKS OX M/SSIOXANV I.AXJhS.

they won't know the difference." Poor, groping heathenism,
—strange they will not consider !

As we afterwards passed more leisurely through the nar-
row streets, we had a hetter chance to see the shops and

stores. Some
of them are
rather fine,
with a good
deal of costly
carving and
gilding. They
are all on the
same pattern
witli a counter
on one side and
a set of nicely-
carved seats or
benches on the
other side for
the customers
to sit down ;
for bargaining
is a leisurely
business in
China, and the
merchant wall
take any a-
mount of trou-

STREET IN CANTON.

KHJl-'.'i.-J-'i'fflfJH ' J ' 'J' ' Ml

■««!eu"«'!JLiij!i». m- 1-"'

) 1 ?^, i » l- JjL- - j.^;b J- " :^. 'i! ,-.,■ J l}.i ^

.A.XDS.

f lieatheuism,

•ough the nar-
lio shops and
itores. Some
)f them are
rather fine,
tvith a good
Seal of costly-
carving and
gilding. They
are all on the
same pattern
with a counter
on one side and
a set of nicely-
carved seats or
benches on the
other side for
the customei-s
to sit down ;
for bargaining
is a leisurely
business in
China, and the
merchant will
take any a-
mount of trou-

LADV EMBROIOERINQ.

Kipiociiiclioii Inini m Chinese I'aiiUitijj.

■^ir'

. i nn I mmmmm

j'lh'ST fMPh'/<ss/o.\s oi' SOI 7/ //■:/.■ \ C/I/X.t.

335

1,1«' for you, and kUkIIv show you all \w has, whctlu'r you pur
.haso auythiMK <»i' "«)t. Th(> class of goods to he soon is very
ordinaiy and exceedingly monotonous. There is little of the
ex(iuisite fancy work and infinite variety of novel, ingenious
and attractive things to ho seen in a Japanese store. One
can walk the streets for hours, in Canton, without s<>eing
anything that he c-ares to huy, even as a novelty. The Chinese
mind is intensely practical and rather common place. Their
finest work is emhroidery and silk weaving.

We went through one of i\w silk factories. We saw the
whole i)roit'ss, from the spinning of the silk thread to the
completion of the weh. Every part of it was hy liund, and
our surprise was to see the heautiful and perfect work that
came out of such crude machinery. The hand looms are
very simple, hut the work was perfect, and the long pieces
of pure white silk shone with almost metallic splendor. We
asked the j.rice, and found it was sold wholesale at thirty
cents a Chinese foot, which would he less than fifty cents a
yard in English measure and money. The silkworms are
produced in great quantities in the silk country, which is only
a few miles southwest of Canton, and is the wealthiest and
most anti-foreign district of the Province.

The fan palm country is adjoining, and myriads of fans
are also to he seen in the stores of the dealers ; for everyhody
here deals in specialities, and you have to go to one store to
get your paper, another to get your ink and pens, and a third
to get your books. The writing is all done with a camel's
hair brush, on rice paper and with India ink, made in long

■iflf

336

L.IRCr.R OfTLOOKS iK\ .VfSSfOX.IRV L.IXDS.

In I.

i il

Sticks like scaling wax. There is also much lacquer work to
be seen, and a great deal of jade-stone jewelry, which is the
national ornament and very costly, singl.^ sets selling for
hundreds of dollars, hut showing little artistic beauty Tlu;
comnsh.ns are very numerous, and men who can altord it
payimm. use sums for aconiuof certain kiudsof wcod which
are especially "lucky."

But the restaurants and butcher shops are the most
characteristic. Here we find all numner of creatures, dead
and alive. Here are fish ana creeping things for sale, junks
of pork and other kinds of meat, live rats hanging by the tail,
and here are the cats and dogs we met on our j(jurney,- all
ready for lunch. The black cat is a special luxuiy. And
there is one restaurant where they keep nothing else, and
where you can see on the signboard this tempting bill of
fare: ''Nice, pure, black cat always ready inside." The
signs are great,' long boards, hanging down perpendicularly
from the second story in front of the stores, with great red
characters running down in columns, proclaiming the adver-
tisement of the goods inside. These hang so thick along the
narrow street that you can scarcely see anything else as you

pass along.

We spent a day in a country village up the river, and saw
something of the raral or village life of the people. A small
party of us got a boat, and up the interminable creeks and
^•^nals they rowed us until we were quite out into the coun-
tiy. Southern China is the city of Venice multiplied by one
hundred. It is a collection of tens of thousands of cities

.IXDS.

[•qiior work to
, whicli is the
t^H selling for
beauty- Tho
can altoi'd it
lit wcod which

are tho most
features, dead
'or sale, junks
in^ by the tail,
• journey,- all
luxury. And
hing else, and
nipting bill of
inside." The
lerpendicularly
with great red
ling the adver-
hick along the
ng else as you

) river, and saw
ople. A small
ible creeks and
into tho coun-
ultiplied by one
.sands of cities

/••/A'.s /• /.I// 'A7;.s.s7( >\s ( >/■ .sv >/ ■/■///■• A'A' < /f/\. I. 337

towns and villages, all built on tlie water. Creeks and cnnals
run everywhere. Kven as you sail up and down the great
river, you can see boat-sails all over the country, windingabout
among tho network of wateiy j)a.ssages that go in all direc-
tions. Vou can reacli almost any place by water. We found

ANCIENT BRIDGE NEAR CANTON.

the country almost wholly covered with young rice, growin
in the water, and looking wondi-ously beautiful with its tints
of light, brilliant green. Every few hundred yards we came
upon another village. Th(;se villages have from five hundred
to five thousand people in them, and tliey form an almost
continuous city over the whole land. There are no isolated

■" 52t=3!^ ^i?KE^-"«

-r^

338

}.AKc:r.R orri.ooKS ON .vrssfox.iRV i..i\J)S,

houses in China ; all tlio people live in villagos, and g" to the
tields to work l.y day, retiu-ninK to the adjoinit.K village at

night.

As we lauded at one of these villages, ahoiit six miles
from Canton, wv. weiv astonished to find that wo were as
strange to these people as if we had eoujo from another
world. The children ran screaming into the houses, and tho
jnothers were afraid to let ur. look inside lest we should
" frighten the children " It war; evident that some of them,
at least, had never seen a foreigner before. Soon, however,
they began to crowd around us, and erelong we were march-
ing through the town with more than five bundled men,
women and boys i.i our train. Aft<'r we bad scattered a few
bits of sugar-cane in the crowd, which is their favorite sweet,
they considered us (juitesafe, and perhaps even popular, and
they showed us around.

Tho great sight of this village was the duck house. Here
the ducks are incubated by artificial heat, and we saw great
•trays and boxes full of thousands of duck eggs in all stages
of hatching. When tho ducks are old enough, they are taken
out to feed in great flocks. A duck boat is quite large and
will hold numy thousands of them. They simply sail up a
little creek, and lay a plank to the shore, and the ducks just
march out at call, and scatter in little companies over tho nee
fields, and spend the day in feeding on all the bugs, worms
and insects to be found. They are very welcome visitors, for
they destroy the pests that injure the crops, and the farmers
and ducks are great friends. When evening comes, the duck

jMnn^iii

y /..t.\7>s.

m, aw\ go to the
oinitig villayt' at

about nix miles
liiit wo wcro as
10 from another
J houses, and the

lest we should
\t some of them,
Soon, however,
; wo were march-
e hundred men,
d sfuttercd a few
if favorite sweet,
(ven popular, and

lick house. Here
lud we saw great
;ggs in all stages
gh, they are taken
i quite large and
r simply sail up a
nd the ducks just
anies over the rice
the bugs, worms
Icome visitors, for
s, and the farmers
ig comes, the duck

F//!Sr /A/PA'/iSS/OXS or SOCTllF.RX CIUXA.

339

shepheid calls in his flock, and they come <piacking along as
sensibly as well-trained slioep, and walk across the gang-
j»lank to the ship, and each Hock knows and goes to its own
cabin or sleeping place, without tlie slight<'.st trouble. Tlic
driver has a ]ongwhii>, and they say tluu'e is great excitement
when the ducks come to end)ark, for they know that the
tardy ones and the last one will get a thrashing, and so they
.scramble and scream to got in first.

The first tiling we saw at every village landing was the
ancestral tenijile, or hall, where worshij) is ivgidarly j)aid to
the i)arents of the '.arious hf>us(>holds. Indeed, we found
that usually each village belonged to a single; family, all being
rt latcil to one another and bcariu!"; the same name for count-
less generations. The village we landed at was La, and all
were the children of La and successive Las, and so all assem-
bled at the same shrine and burned their tajiers to the same
ancestors. We went into the temple and saluted the score
or two of head men and others that were there, and as we
looked at the countless tablets with the names of all their
fathers, we began to feel something o.^ the age and conserva-
tism of China.

In one of the villages opposite Canton we went into a
number of Chinese flower gardens, and laughed again and
again at the odd sliapes into which they had dwarfed and
twisted every sort of plant and tree. Some were like drag-
ons, others like men, women and gods. Some were comic,
others religious ; others, again, beautiful imitations of moun-
tains, valleys and landscapes, with grottos, jiagodas and

-40 LARGER Ol'TLOOk-r, OX MISSIOXARY LANDS.

houses here and there on the mountain side. But all were in
miniature. Here were orange trees with fruit and flowers,
and the trees were less than a foot high ; forest trees, many
years old, as big as rose bushes ; boxwood plants cut to look
like a great fat Buddha, or brother Jonathan, tall and lank,

PAVILION NEAR CANTON.

with an umbrella in his hand and his hat on one side of his

head. c w f

In another village was a gieat Buddhist temple full of

lazy priests and sacred pigs and hens. Here is a regular pig-
pen with gigantic swine, so fat that they can scarcely move,
which some one has rescued from the butcher's hands and
dedicated to the gods, and here they are fed by all the

■■npaiMPi

LANDS.

But all were in
lit and flowers,
[•est trees, many-
ants cut to look
I, tall and lank,

Q one side of his

ist temple full of
•e is a regular pig-
an scarcely move,
tcher's hands and
re fed by all the

CHINESE TEMPLE.

KipiiuliictiDii Iniiii :i Cliim.-se I'aiuUnj;

FIRST /MI'h-l-:SS/OXS ( '/■• SOI T/lEh'X CJ/IN. I. 34 1

pious worshipptns who come, until their troughs are run-
ning over with rice and onions, and tliey are ready to die
of corpulence. Here they live in peace till they die of old
age— worthy types of the bestial degradation of blind and
Christless heathenism, or Matthew Arnold's "Light of Asia."'
But the saddest sight we saw that day, and tlie one that
will live longest in our memory as a sort of Monograph of
heathenism in its cruel horrors, was a httle dead baby girl,
floating with downward face on the water of the canal. All
around were hundreds of boats, little family boats, full of
men and women and children rowing and paddling about in
the canal, but no one seemed to notice or care for her. Not
a yard away was the boat from which, perhaps, she had fal-
len, but her little heli)less hands had been stretched out to
them in vain, and her little cries had been stilled by the
waters of death ere they resi»onded. She V((,s onli/ a girl!
It was ''her fate'' to fall over, and why should they inter-
fere ? So our friends told us the Chinese really believed and
acted. They assured us that if we were to fall into that
canal, probably not a single hand would be moved to save us.
It was our business, and why should they interfere ? If we
chose to drown, they were not going to hinder lis ; and if we
chose to swim, why— all right.

Indeed, the captain of our river steamer told us that
only a few nights ago he heard a splashing in the water near
his ship as she lay at the wharf. There were mt>n around,
but nobody moved, and he could not possibly have got near
without going ashore, and taking ten minutes to get round

342 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

A CANAL IN CANTON.

the pier to the spot. Next morning he asked one of the
men, who had been standing by, and he said it was, a China-
man who had fallen in, and they let him die. It was his
business,— why should they interfere? And there, sure
enough, when the tide went down, lay his dead body in the
low water, and the people came down all day to wash their

— !fHE

V LANDS.

isked one of the
1 it was, a Chimv-
die. It was his
^nd there, sure
dead body in the
lay to wash their

hiNST iMrRFSSioxs OF sorTH/:/^.\ < II IS A. 343

rice and fill their water vessels-right beside him and no
one noticed or seemed to care for that pooi', lif(>lessforni that
died because there was none to help.

And so our little baby girl lay fioathig in the river, and
no one lifted her out or s<.ught for her a binial robe <>.•
* ' lucky grave. ' * There she would lie till she lloated out with
the tide to the dt^ep sea, or the river shore, to b .evoured by
the fishes or the dogs. If she had been a little boy, perhaps
more would have been done for her, for we noticed that all
the little boys on the river-boats had life preservers, ma<le of
gourds, tied on their backs, but they never tie them on little
girls and so she had to die because she was only a little gul,
and 'to lie, unburied, unpitied and unremembered, because
she had the sad lot to be born with the face and form ot a
little daughter of Eve in cruel, heathen China.

Poor, little, dead, Chinese baby girl, speak-speak to the
women and girls of Christian lands, as thou hast spoken to
our heart, until there shall be enough of pity, love and
power to reach and save the other poor, sad '.vomen and girls
of China, whose sorrows we never see !

ONLY A LITTLE BABY GIRL.

Onlya little baby girl
Deail by the riverside.
Only a little Chinese chiUl
Drowned in the lloating tif^e.
Over the boat too fur she leaned
Watching the dancing wave,—
Over the brink she fell and sank,
But there was none to save.

344 i-.-iR(;/:/^' t^'v/.ooAs o.v Ar/ss/()x.iA'}' r.iXDs.

If she had only been a bo}',
Tliey would have heard her cry ;

But she wiV8 juxt a b»by girl,
And she was left to die.

It was her fate, i)erliai)H they said,
Why should they interfere ?

Had she not always been a curse ?
Why should they keep her here ?

So they have left her little form,
Floating upon the wave ;

Hhe was too young to have a sonl,
Why should she have a grave ?

Yes, and there's many another lamb.

Perishing every day.
Thrown by the road or the riverside,

Flung to the beasts of prey.

K' ■'

Is there a mother's heart to night.
Clasping her darling child.

Willing to leave these helpless lamV)s,
Out on the desert wild ?

la there a little Christian girl,
Happy in love and home,

Living in selfish ease, while they
Out on the mountains roam ?

Think as you lie on your little cot,
Smoothed by a mother's hand,

Think of the little baby girls
Over in China's land.

. V'l iimwMOTii

r..i.\DS.

j-rr.'ST /.yrK/:ssfo\s of soctn/:rx cii/yA.

Ask if there 1b not Hom«»thin>< more,

Even a child (lan do ;
An<! if perhaps In China's laud

JetUB has need of yoii.

Only a little baby girl,
Dead by the riverside.

( )nly a little Chinese child
Drowned in the lloating tide.

Hut it has brouglit a vision vast,
Dark as a nation's woe ;

O.i ! has it left some willing heart,
Answering "I will go."

345

W-\

XIX.

MISSIONARY WORK IN SOUTHERN CHINA.

IT IS a fact not generally known that Southern China is
a distinct and once isolated section of that grivit Middle

Kingdom, and has only hren incorporated in it since the
Second f'enturv, while the northern i)()rtion of the Empire
lo,.k', ba.-,k ages heyond this period. It is divided l.y a range
,^f mountains from the great provinces of Kweichow and
Hunan, It has a distinct river system, wateiing the South-
ern Provinces and emptying into the sea hy the many mouths
of the Pearl River. And the language is (piite distinct, a Can-
tonese heing as unahle to understand a Mandarin-speaking
resident on the Yaugtse, as his dialect would l.c- miintelligible
to the northern Chinaman.

Southern China properly includes the provinces of C^uan-

timg, (^uangsi and Yunnan.

Quantung has a population <.f about 22,000,0.»), Quangsi
of S OOO.OOO, and Yunnan of about 3,0O(),00n. The latter
province, although in the latitude of Southern China, belongs
by altitude, properly, to the north . It is separated by a lof ly
range of hills from Quangsi. and sj.eaks the diaUict of the
north-the Mandarin and is being reached by missionaries
from the Yangtse rather than the Pearl River, and may yet
346

-"s^imm^

CHINA.

u^rn CJIiina is
j^iciit Middle
ill it since the
if th(* Empire
led by a range
[weichovv and
iig the South-
many mouths
listinct, a Can-
larin-speaking
i luiintelUgible

inces of (.^uan-

K),Ouo, Quangsi
)0. The latter

China, helongs
rated hy a lof ly

dialect of the
by missionaries
!!•, and may yet

MfSSfO\.\/y'y U'Ok'K /V SO/ ///I hX C/l/WA.

347

be also reached from Anam and Toncpiin hy the new highway
of commerce which French enterprise is opening up through
the Red Kiver of Toiuiuin.

It is, at ])resent, an almost whoHy-nnoccni.ird Mission
field, and may well claim our most earnest tlu.nglit an.l
prayer. Our chief in<|uiries, at present, however, have liad
to do with the two provinces of (,)nantnng and (,)uangsi, which
speak the same language and really constitute <.ne geograph
ical section and one Mission field.

These two provinces togethcihavc a jiopulation nearly as
large as Great Britain, and more llian half as large as th.'
United States. It is very dense, in some i-lm^es exceeding:
TOO to the scpiare mile. All the people live in towns and vil-
lages, and they lie so close together as almost to form one
continuous city, for many miles. In tlie silk <-ountry, soutli
of Canton, from one single cluster of towns and cities, cover-
ing a few miles, and all connected, no less than ;5()(),()0n
fighting men could he furnished for military duty. The
entire population must have nund)ered over a milli. .n. From
one low hilltop in the Delta 3r.o villages (;an he counted, aver-
aging at least 2,(>oo persons.

Canton, itself, has anywhere between one and two mil-
lion people ; and, only fifteen miles farther up the river, the
city of Fat-Shan has 5n(i,(iti(» people, and between the tw..
cities there are many villagers. We went ui) among these
villages five or six miles, in boats, and they seemed endless.
It is°probable that within a limit less than the distance from
New York to Yonkers, there is a i)opulation in and around

T^A^ l.ARCr.R OUTLOOKS OX MISSIOSWRY LANDS,

Canton nearly as j^ivat as tlif city of London, whih^ in many
otlicr parts of tlio i)iovinc«* you still find tlu* sanm teeming
crowds around other centres.

The accessihility of this vast population is one of the
peculiar H'atures of this i)art of the country. The whole
coiuitry is one inteiininahle network of rivers and canals,
and nearly every place of inipoi'tance in these two pi-ovinces
is citiier on a river or else within a few hours of it.

These rivers ai'e traversed hy hoats of every description.
There ar<> a few steam launches ^'oin^' regulaily to several
points in tlu- interior, and a still larger numher of native
" l)assag(^ boat?," going almost everywhere and carrying great
lunnhers of passengers, but these are so uncomfort J)le for
Europeans that few missionaries use them if they can go
anv other way. The most comfortable way is to take your
own boat. If you are in a great hurry you can take a "Slip-
per boat," the "Chinese express," a boat that looks just like
a slipper, and is propelled by four strong rowers, and can
make, under ])ressure, from seven to ten miles an hour, it is
said. If you wish to go more slowly and cheaply, the ordi-
nary "sampan" can be had, with crew, for about a dollar a

day.

The most comfortable boats are the House boats, with
acconmiodatiou for several people, where a missionary party
or family could live for months if necessary, and preach from
l)lace to place along the numerous streams. The boatman
can be got for about twenty-five cents a day, and the river is
a much safer i)lace in the event of a mob than the land. In-

wmmm

A'DS.

lilo ill many
nie toeming

(tne of the

Tho wliole

and canals,

\ro provinces

it.

description.
y to several
er of native
Trying great
iforl .ble for
they can go
to take ycur
akea "SHp-
loks just like
LM's, and can
xn hour, it is
[)ly, the ordi-
)ut a dollar a

i boats, with
nonary party
])reach from
T\w boatman
id the river is
he land. In-

,1//.V.S7().\. //>'»■ //"A'A- /\-.SV'/ //// AV\ <7//.V./.

349

deed the great n.aj..rity ..f those thirty millions of p.-ople
,ould be evangelized, at least, so far as the rapi.l pubhcati.m
of the (Jospeliscomvn.e.!. by passing up and down these
stnan.s, and spending a few days at ,-..h point, and then
passin- ..n. Of «ourse. this is not all that needs to be done,
but tlds would be s..mething; it would b.- nmch, and the
planting, of eours.-, would ne,..l t.. hr afterward caretuUy
watered and husbanded.

Let us look for a
moment at the river

system of these prov-
inces. First, we have

th(> Delta of tho Pearl

Kiver. This begins

about one hundred

miles from its mouth,

a little above Canton,

and spreads o u t

toward the sea like a

A NATIVE BOAT.

great fan about fifty miles wide at the wide or c - .a end.

This section is cut up by many rivers and canals, and is
a re-ion of great wealth, and containing, literally, scor.'s of
grea't cities and many millions of prosperous and enterpnsmg
people This is the region of the silkworm a.ul the fan palm ;
and the anti-foreign feeling is so strong, that in many of the
towns missionaries cannot yet enter. But the most avadable
centres have been already occupied by the Presbyterians and
others.

350 J.AKC.r.li OV ri.OOKS OS MrSSTOXANY LAXIiS.

Next is tlu' liver HyHtem of tlu* interior. Some distance
above Canton, tho P.-ail Ilivri' begins to spivad ont into its
numorous fet^bTS or brandies. Tb(^ piiiieipal of tliese are
tbo East Kiv(M-, ilio Nortb Kiver and tbe West River.

'Pbe P'lst Kiverwateis (be country nortli-east of Canton,
and its valleys are tbiekly populated and oecupied by some
of tbe most sucn-essful mission stations in tbe whole prov-
ince. Tbe Nortb River runs down from tbe mountains tbat
border Hunan and Kweicbow, and it fornis a waterway for
tbe whole northern section of tbe i)rovince. The country at
its beudwattsrs is said to be most beautiful ; and tb(> mountain
scenery of IJencbow, a t;ity near its headwaters, is said by
those who have travelled much to be unequalled by any iu

the world.

The West River is the longest of the three, and drains
tbe most extensive country. As we ascend it, we find it
branching out into three great lines, and sjnvading over the
whole of West(;ru Quantung, and most of Quangsi. One
branch nms up north to Kweic;bow, the capital of Quangsi.
Another stretches away many hundreds of miles through
Central Quang'-i till it reaches the mountains of Yunnan.

And another sweeps down to tbe south of that province and

Jlows on a fine, navigable stream, with cities and towns all

along its shores— to the western border.

Such, then, is the i)bysical frame of this great field.

Along these water lines God has distributed tbe people and

taught them to use them as the avenues of connnunication.

And along them the Gospel must be carried to their teeming

millions.

J.IXDS.

Somi^ distance
11(1 out into its
1 of thew! are
River.

ast of Canton,
iipicd by some
le whole prov-
jountains that
I waterway for
rho country at
\ the mountain
ters, is said by
\\V'(\ by any iu

•ee, and drains
it, we find it
ading over the
(^uangsi. One
bal of Quangsi.
miles through
ns of Yunnan,
it province and
's and towns all

his great field,
the people and
communication.
;o their teeming

MISSIONARY U JA'A' fJV SOL'rm:A\V (///.VA. 351

To a ci'itaiii extent this has been doiir for eighty-six

years.

Eighty six years ago, a solitary missionary sailed in an
Anujrican sliip from New York to tho port of Macao, for tho
j.urpose of preaching tho Gospel to the Chinese. As ho
started on his new and apparently hopeless mission, a scepti

MACAU.

cal \raerican said to him : "So you expect to convert the
Chinese, do you ? " " No," he answered. " I expect God to
do that." That man was Robert Morrison. He waited
seven years before he saw the first Chinese convert baptized,
and twenty-seven more before he saw China opened to allow
tho preaching uf the Gospel in Canton and other ports ; but
could he look down from heaven to-day he would see over

352 LARGER OrTI.OOk'S OX MISSIONARY LANDS.

G,0()(i (converted Clvineso in the province at whose gates ho
spent liis hfe, apparently in vain, and nearly 4(t,000 more
scattered all ovei- China.

His work was foundation work, and every other mis-
sionary has reaped the fruit. He translated the Scriptures
into Chinese, and prepared a dictionary of the Chinese lan-
guage, hotli of which great works were the hasis of all the
literary work that has since improvtMl upon his ditHcult but
valuable b-:-ginning.

In 1S41, the treaty ports of China were thrown open to
foreigners and missionaries, and inmiediately a number of
the leading missionary societies began operations in Canton.
Gradually, during the past forty years, these operations have
been extended over the province, until now there is a force
of nearly 100 European and American laborers, nearly 200
native laborers, and over 7,000 native Christians in the prov-
ince of Quantung.

In the extreme northern corner of the i>rovince, the city
of Swatow is the centre of the work of the American Baptist
Missionary Union, where Dr. Ashmore, Miss Fielde, and
many others have been laboring successfully for many
years. Miss Fielde's work for women, through native Bible
women, has had phenomenal success, and, although she her-
self has returned to America, her work is still going on suc-
cessfully.

Here, also, the English Presbyterians have a good work,
founded originally by that apostolic man and missionary,
William Burns, of Scotland, and still bearing tlie seal which

ANDS.

I lose gates ho
r 4(»,000 more

■ry (^th(;i' rnis-
tlu; Scriptures
3 Chinese lan-
isis of all the
■s ditUcult hut

brown open to
a numher of
3ns in Canton,
perations have
:here is a force
?rs, nearly 200
ns in the prov-

ivince, the city
lerican Baptist
ss Fielde, and
illy for many
y\\ native Bihle
liovigh she her-
going on suc-

e a good work,

nd missionary,

tlie seal which

Mrss/ox.ih'v iioA'A' /.v so r 77/ /■: A' y dffx.i.

353

his devout and lofty spirit left upon it. We had the pleas-
ure of meeting, in Shanghai, dear Mr. McKenzie, one of their
oldest missionaries, and a sweeter, humhler and more Christ
hke spirit we have rarely met ; and some of tlie incidents he
mentioned of the working of the Holy Spirit among the
native people reminded one of the df^ys of the founding of

Christianity.

In Canton and vicinity the strongest force of workers is
connected with the Presbyterian Mission, whi( ;. is well-organ-
ized and manned, so far, at least, as the forces at its com-
mand will allow. The venerable Dr. Happer is now in Amer-
ica, but he has succeeded in obtaining a large endowment for
the Chinese Christian College which is in contemplation for
the higher education of Christian boys. Dr. Henry is the
best known of the workers in the field, and his two remark-
able books, "The Cross and the Dragon," and "Lingnau"
(among the very best of the many volumes we have read in
China), not only give a most clear and vivid view of Southern
China and its Mission work, but also afford a striking glimpse
of the aggressive spirit and missionary labors of the man.
His work is entirely evangelistic and ini&oionary, and i:i the
course of his intensely active life he has penetrated almost
all portions of the province, and explored and opened to the
world the interesting island of Hainan, which is now tha
scene of one of their most successful Missions.

Mr. Fulton is also engaged chiefly in itinerant, evangel-
istic work in his missionary boat. He spends weeks along
the rivers of the interior, and has had the honor, we believe>

■I

3S4 LARCHK Orri.OOKS Oy MrSSlOXARV LANDS.

of being driven out of the West River country, wliich we
have ah-eady refarred to as the field our workers hope to oc-
cupy. In this department of missionary work there are
several chapels in Canton, and elsewhere, where daily evan-
gelistic services are held, and the floating crowd ever surg-
ing by, drop in, one by one,
to hear the Gospel.

No man ever had a more
honored and successful min-
istry in this connection than
Mr. Preston, of Canton, who
for more thai, a quarter of a
century preached from day
to day, in this great city, and
was permitted to sow seeds in
tens of thousands of hearts as
they passed by from all parts
of the country, many of
whom have since, from time
to time, come out into full
confession, and told how they
received their first impres-
sions through his words. He is now in a better world,
but we had the pleasure of meeting his daughter, who is the
wife of a missionary in Canton, and is still carrying on his
good work. Her husband, Mr. Wiesner, is in charge of the
Boys' School, which we visited, and which is the nucleus of
the Chinese Christian College about to be established or i-e-

CHINESE SHOEMAKER.
Reproduced frota a Chiuese Painting.

ii :!(Hil

r LANDS.

ntiy, wliich we
;ers hope to oc-
work there are
here daily evan-
rowd ever surg-

"11

E SHOEMAKER.

)ta a Chinese Painting.

L a better world,
ighter, who is the
ill carrying ou his
8 in charge of the
1 is the nucleus of
3 established or i-e-

MISSIOXARV U'ORh: /.V SOCTHERy CHINA.

355

modelled. Rev. Dr. Noyes is the Superintendent of the The-
ological Seminary where a number of Chinese are preparing
for the ministry.

There is a very well organized hospital and medical work
in connection Avith this Mission, under the charge of Dr.
Kerr (now in America), Dr. Swan and Dr. Niles. Through
the extreme kindness and hospitality of Dr. Swan and the
other workers, we saw much of the work, and have reason to
believe that great numbers of the natives are reached and in^
terested in the Gospel while coming in touch with the hos-
pital.

Tens of thousands of persons visit the hospital every
year, and while waiting for treatment as out-patients, or re-
maining under treatment in it, they always hear the Gospel,
and more or less impression is made upon them. As they
return to their homes they have a grateful and friendly feel-
ing toward the missionaries, and are used by God to open
doors in th. c -,. lor. The Presbyterians have a strong medi-
cal work, wuich, we believe, they are honestly using as a
handmaid and auxihary to direct missionary work, and we
have not met a more true or earnest missionary spirit than
Dr. Swan, the gifted head, at present, of the Canton Hospital ;
but we are sure that he and others feel that the greatest need
to-day is more time and men to do the direct missionary and
evangelizing work for which the other is merely preparatory,
and without which it would only be simply a waste of time
and a perversion of money, which is given not for scientific or
humane, but directly missionary purposes. We believe that

i!"*!!

356 LARGER orri.OOh'S O.V MISSIONARY LANDS.

there is opportunity in Southern China for some medical mis-
sionary work, but we are sure that even the medical mission-
aries recognize the necessity for direct evangeUzation as par-
amount.

Among the many whom it was a great joy to meet, and
whom wo cannot stop to name, was Dr. Ceattie, of Toronto,
and his dear wife, who were about to open a new station in
the western part of the province, south of Canton, and who
are well known to many of our dear students and friends
from Toronto, and are in full sympathy with our work.

We had the opportunity of visiting the Girls' School, un-
der Miss Cutler and Miss Lewis, and seeing some of the little
Chinese women of the future. Over a hundred bright girls
are here preparing to be native Bible women, wives of native
preachers, and the wives and mothers of the native Christians
in their various callings.

A certain amount of educational work seems to be neces-
sary, as the native schools compel their i)upils to learn and
practice heathenism, but the aim of the missionary church
will have to be, as soon as possible, to lay this upon the
native Christians themselves, and not require the home church
to maintain in China an expensive and gratuitous system of
secular schools. This the Karens have already done in Bur-
mah, and this the Southern Baptists have, in a measure, done
in Canton, where they have a boys' school for the higher
education of native Christians, initiated and carried on by the
native Christians themselves, aided by the missionaries, and
working successfully.

' LANDS.

lie modical niis-
ncdical niission-
elization as par-

oy to meet, and
;tio, of Toronto,
a new station in
Canton, and who
ents and friends
1 our work.
Hrls' School, un-
lonie of the little
idrcd bright girls.
, wives of native
native Christians

aenis to be neces-
jpils to learn and
lissionary church
ay this upon the
) the home church
tuitous system of
jady done in Bur-
a a measure, done
lol for the higher
carried on by the
missionaries, and

jV/ss/ox.ia')' iroA'A' /.y sorri/Ek'S c//fx.i.

357

Time and space will Jiot allow us to follow our Presby-
terian brethren through their interesting work down the
Delta and uj) the North Kiver to Lienchow. We met several
of their native pastors, and attended one of their native ser-
vices, on Sabbath morning, conducted by a brother, who
came to Canton from among the Chinese in California. The
men sat on one side and the women on the other, with a high
board i)artition between, which Chinese etiquette requires.
Had not this wall been there the same rigid eticpiette would
have prevented the men or women being allowed even to
look across at eacli other. This is one of tlie things that our
young missionaries are slow to realize, and sometimes try to
ignore and disregard ; but the free intercourse of the sexes,
as it would be innocently regarded with us, is impossible
here not only among the natives, hut also the nxissionaries.
The time will doubtless come, when the native Christian
-community will be strong enough to establish more simple
and natural habits and customs ; but, at present, it would be
an unwise struggle with long-established customs, and would
turn the thoughts of the people to a mere side issue, and
awaken prejudices and suspicions which we may easily avoid
by a little prudence and self-denial.

We saw in the Canton Hospital a specimen of foot-bind-
ing. The patient had come for treatment, and was sulTering
from her feet. She was very unwilling to let us see them,
but Dr. Niles kindly insisted, and unbound tlie poor crippled
lumps of twisted bones and muscles, and wf? saw the cruel
mutilation which every Chinese woman who expects to be

358

/,./av;/;a' ory/.ooAS ox .i//.v.s7rJ.v./A'>- /../.v/^.v.

fashionable must endure. There is nothing' more sad than to
see the poor laboring women who have submitted to this
cruel custom, in their <hildhood, in the hope, no doubt, of
h.'inK ladies, hut who have now to toil for a living and drag
themselves about on these stumps of mutilated feet. We
were glad to see that many of the humble and laboring classes
do not require their children to undergo this outrage, but
they are able to run about on sound limbs and enjoy their life

in freedom.

We also had the privile}?e of meeting the principal work-
ers of the Southern Baptist Mission. Dr. Graves, the vener-
able father of the Mission, who has grown gray in its ser-
vice, was most kind and courteous, and with characteristic
Southern politeness offered us all the assistance in his power,
an offer which we value very highly as we expect to labor m
the field where they alone have obtained a footing. We also
met Mr. McCloy, who had just returned from the West River
and the borders of Quangsi, and brought a good deal of en-
couragement ; and ha<l nmch pleasant Christian fellowship
with other members of this thoroughly efficient Mission,
which has a high record in Southern China.

The American Board, the English Wesleyans, the Lon-
don Missionary Society and the American Swedes are also
laboring in Canton and vicinity, and we had the privilege of
meeting their workers and knowing something of their work.
The Church Missionary Society has a few laborers in Quan-
tung. They have two missionaries at Pakoi, an open Cus-
tom's Port in the southern cormn- of the province, and have

' /..Ly/)s.

lore sad thun to
ibinitted to this
le, no doubt, of
living and drag
lated feet. We
. laboring classes
[lis outrage, but
d enjoy their life

; principal work-
■aves, the vener-
gray in its ser-
th characteristic
ace in his power,
xpect to labor in
aoting. We also
i\ the West Kiver
good deal of en-
•istian fellowship
efticient Mission,

sleyans, the Lon-
Swodes are also
d the privilege of
ing of their work,
laborers in Quan-
koi, an open Cus-
rovince, and have

teen trying from tins point to enter Quangsi for many years.
We met good Bishop Burdon, of Hong Kong, and were much
touched by the heartiness of the good bishop and his desire to
encourage any movement to reach that province on which
his heart has long been set. He told us that he himself had
taken the tour which onr missionary is about to take up tlie
West Kiver through t^iangsi overland to the coast, and
found it open. It is beautiful how we find that on the great
field our small denominational differences melt away, and all
hearts are one in the desire to meet the awful need of a lost

world.

The Continential Societies are also laboring in Quantung.
The Rhenish, the Berlin and the Basel Mission are all repre-
sented The latter has a long chain of stations up the East
River, and is said to have an ideal Mission work. Tliey have
avoided the great cities and have planted their stations m the
villages, and have a compact and well organized work cover-
ing a large chain of villages in Northern Quantung. Our
time would not allow us to go up to see them, but we heard
on every side of the wisdom and efficiency of then- work. We
found the same reports of their great work in Southern
India These Continental people have a patience, a thought-
fullness and practical wisdom, as well as faith, which we
may well study and enudate.

We had some service in Canton. On tl;e uight of our
arrival we found a most intererting body of young men as-
sembled in Mr. Reeves' parlors, gathered from tlie Custom
House workers in the city, and we spoke to them in the vlas-

360

i.ARcr.R oi-n.ooKs ox mssrox.iA'r /..ixns.

t('i"s nariKN and believe tliere was blessing. On Sabbatb wo
had two services. In the (evening one was in the I'resbyterian
Compound, and tlu' missionaries of all denominations Avere
pi-esent. and God was pleased to bless the service to many
hearts in a deeper baptism of the Holy Ghost. Even mission-
aries need to be (piickened and consecrated, and we have never
met hungri(>r hearts, <>i- mon; open doors, than among the
missionaries abroad. We had the i)rivilege of meeting about
forty of the workers in Canton, and deem it a great i)iivilege
to know these dcnir standard-bearers and be counted as fel-
low workers with them.

Our own work, we need hardly say, had only begun, but
already, through the modest worth and wisdom of our dear
workers, it had become established in the atf ection and con-
fidence of other nnssionaries. We believe the time has come
when we may send ai)artyof workers to reinforce our friends
in Southern China. Tbey went to this part of the Empire
chiefly to see what openings there were still unoccupied in
this oldest of the China Mission fields. But they found such
destitution and need that we could easily employ hundreds

(jf laborers.

After nmch careful and prayerful inquiry, we believe the
Master would have our AlHance endeavoi' to occupy the neg-
lected i)rovince of (^uangsi. It lies just west of Quantung.
It has a population of eight millions of people, and, with th«^
exception of one or two little stations, recently planted by
the Southern Baptists on the West River, is entirely unoccu-
pied. The Presbyterians attempted to occupy it a few years

y..'liL.

/..i.yps.

)n Saljbiitli wo

icl'resbytfrian

iiinutions were

rvice to many

Even niission-

vve have never

lan among the

meeting ahont

great ]>rivilege

counted as fel-

)uly begun, but
3m of our dear
ction and con-
! time lias come
orce our friends
of the Empire
unoccupied in
hey found sncli
iploy hundreds

, we beheve (lie
3ccui)y the neg-
t of Quantung.
e, and, with tlie
iitly ])lanted by
entirely unoccu-
ly it a few years

M/ss/ox.iAT ;/'(M'A'/.v .s< >/•/■///; A'.v <7//Av;. 361

ag(.. l)ut were driv(>n out; but tli.> Baptists persevered, and
have a small but solid footing, and rei)()rt that the pe(»ple
have beanne more friendly ; and now the Presbyterian
brethren, we believe, regret that they hav(^ not the force to
occupy it at ])resent.

This is siu'ely the "regions bt^yond " of Southern China.
With (me exception— Hunan— it is the most unoccupied and
destitute field in the Empir(>. T.. reach it is an .uubition
worthy of the bravest heart. To claim its eight millions for
Christ w^ould be to our hearts an inspiriug hope if we were
ourselves free to go. Most of its people live along the shores
of the great river that flows past Canton, and its various
tributaries and headwaters. Every pai-t of it can be easily
approached from Canton by boat.

A party, if need be, could live in a boat for months and
evangelize along the river shore. We wish there was a score
of siuai (lospid boats along the rivers of guangsi, and we be-
lieve there will be, ere long— at least, we hojie there will be-
at least half a score of i)ioiieers ready to go before the close
of the year and take this region for Christ.

But let no one think that this is a work that can be done
by inexperienced enthusiasm. No held so much iuhkIs the
best men as this. A false step in China may easily pi'ove
fatal to all the work. China is not India, a land all open to
the (lospel, and a people who meekly give place to the Eng-
lishman. In China you are the inferior, and you enter and
stay only on sufferance. Undoubtedly, the secret purpose of
the Chinese nation is, as soon as they can afford it, and can
manage it, to get rid of the foreigner.

362

LARCER orri.OOK^ ox MISSIONARY LANDS.

You cannot ko where you like or .lo as you pleaso l>.«rr.
You ran do nothinj,' without their goo.l will aiul confidence.
Every sl.'p you take you will I.e watched hy a suspicious
crowd. They cannot holieve that you have conu^ then^ with-
out some selfish and mt r.^enary motive. If you go otT alone,
it is ivported that yov. have gone o(T to find some fal.l.'d
golden pig that is concealed in a cave in the valley, and that
you are carrying <.«' the good fortune of the place with you.
If you put up a Chapel, you are sure to get some corner of
it wrong, so that it hinders the progress of the dragon as he
flies through the air. In Swatow the missionaries had to
give up the property they had secured, hecause it was found,
on consulting their oracles, that the land was located right
ou the dragon's tail. Only a few weeks ago, tlu^ Baptist
Chapel, in this very i)rovince of Quangsi, was ahout to be
torn down because they said it was keeping back the rain ;
and if the Christians had not prayed, and the Lord sent the
rain within four days, the Mission would, undoubtedly, have

bee; I expelled.

If you are going to Quangsi you must go expecting, per-
haps, to be stoned and driven out after you have spent
months in establishing your work. What are you going to
do about it \ Why, as a good missionary said m Southern
China lately : " Just go back again and if they drive you out
a second time go back once more, and they will respect you
for it." And when they see that you have decided to stay
they will let you alone, as they have done already more than
once in the case of noble, indefatigable men, who counted
not thci' lives dear unto themselves.

il! )U|t

.mns.

il conlidtnice.

a suspicious
\i\ tluM-o with-
i go off aU)ii<',

some fabh'd
.h?y, and that
ace with you.
)m(' corner of

dragon as he
naries had to

it was found,

located right
3, the Baptist
,s about to be
l)ack the rain ;

Lord sent the
oubtedly, have

?xpe(tting, per-
iu have spent
3 you going to
id in Southern
yr drive you out
ill respect you
lecided to stay
iady more than
1, who counted

If then> are such m.'u in Auierica waiting for a call,
Quangsi is tlu- place for them, espe.-iuily if they will take the
Lord to give them His wisdom, courage an<l all suftLiency.

\ny degree of talent, capacity and holy energy will find
ample scope in this great arena. Why, these nussion tields
aro imperial realms, and the men and women that are now
taking them for God will be the prim-es and the crowned
ones of the Coming Kingd..m. May Go,l .>pen the eyes of
Home of His loved ones who are wasting their lives at home,
<„■ oidy getting Go.Vs Better instead of God's liest for the
solenm, precious life that each of us can only live but once !

XX.

SHANGHAI AND ITS MISSIONARY WORK.

WK saik'd Iroiu Hong Kdu- to Shangliai on "Tho
Km press of India," of th(^ Canada racific Itailway
Company. She is on«^ of throo great "Empress"
steanisiiips, which are, dou\)tless, the finest in Eastern
Avaters, and only surpassed, perhaps, by the new Cunard
liners, recently placed on the Atlantic. The others are " The
Empress of CHiina" and "The Empress of Japan." They
are painted pure white, and in contrast with the black hulls
of most ocean steamships, present a most queenly appear
ance on the water. The young Canadian colony has good
reason to be proud of her vessels. We had expected to con-
tinue our journey on them all the way, at a later date, to
Vancouver, but found afterwards that it would be necessary
to part witli our tickets and leturu from Japan, via San
Fiancisco, in order to be home in time for the Old Orchard
Convention, of whose earlier date we bavc^ just heard.

We cannot speak too highly of the comfort of the-e
great steamships, and the courtesy of their ofiicers, as well
as the exceptionally high class of passengers who usually
l)at)onize them. They make the voyage from Japan to
America in twelve days, and reduce it, almost, to an Atlantic
passage.

.164

4JJ.

/ORK.

ini on

"The
v\i\c Kiiilway
"Empress"
in Eastern
now Ciinard
icrsave "The
I pan." They
10 black hulls
xMily appear
my lias good
)ected to con-
lator date, to
be necessary
pan, via San
> Old Orchard
J hoard.
I fort of theie
fticers, as well
5 Avho usually
oni Ja]ian to
to an Atlantic

s/rA.\(;ir.ii axp its missions RV n'ORK.

365

On the way we had the privilege of meeting the vener-
able Bishop Burden, of Hong Kong, and learning mn.h
from him about Quang-si. We also met sonae other faithful
missionaries and esteemed acquaintances.

On the third morning we entered the vast mouth of the
Yan--tse River, and were soon anchored at Woosung, and a
little^ater, steaming up the river in the launch to Shanghai,

fourteen raile^^ further up.

We were not prepared for our first view of Shanghai.
We expected a foreign settlement-a number of^ streets,
banks and English stores,-but this splendid and imposing
foreign ci.y, stretching for miles along the river with is
parks, gardens, splendid warehouses, offices and hotels quite
took us by surprise, and made us wonder if we were not in
Calcutta, Rangoon or Bombay. Shanghai is, indeed worthy
of comparison with any of the great foreign capitals of the
East ; and we found afterwards, as we often traversed its
fine Uvements, and passed up and down its magmficent
streets, that our impressions were not disappointed

There are three distinct quarters, all succeeding each
other, on the river front, viz., the American, British and
French, but the British is the most substantial and imposing^
In these Concessions most of the foreigners live, and most of
the missionary and business houses are erected. Back of
this lies the native city, which has a population of about
125 000, densely crowded into its close and narrow streets,
very much like any other Chinese city. The foreign popula-
tion of the European Concession in Shanghai is between

366 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS

4,000 and 5,000, and the native population about 200,000 in
the foreign city, and 125,- xtO in the native— or a total of
829,000 altogether. The trade of Shanghai exceeds $1,600,000
annually, and the actual value of property in the foreign
city is $70,000,000.

We were kindly welcomed and most hospitably enter-
tained by our dear brother, Mr. Stevenson, at the China
Inland Mission Home, Woosung Road. Here we met a num-
ber of the missionaries of this model society, and realized
much of the spirit of their work. We felt very much at
home among these dear young hearts who reminded us of our
own young people in America at the College Home. The
Shanghai Home is a beautiful and commodious building, ac-
commodating, we should think, nearly one hundred persons,
and is, we believe, the gift of one of their own workers.

The spirit of the Home is most hallowed. Every meal is
closed with prayer, and every day has its special fields for
prayer and intercession. The Missionary Man is part of the
decoration of the wall, and as the places are called out for
special prayer, the long pointer moves along the map and all
eyes and hearts meet over the place where some lone heart
is standing as a witness for Christ. The work of the China
Inland Mission covers the whole Empire, and it is most in-
spiring to realize the grasp of China which God has given this
great missionary movement, after the toils and trials of thirty
years, comprehending so many of the strategic points of this
mightiest Empire on the globe.

At the missionary prayer meeting it is usual to read ex-

^^^

ANDS.

mt 200,000 in
or a total of
eds $1,600,000
n the foreign

spitably enter-
at the China
ve met a num-
, and reahzed
very much at
nded us of oxu*
3 Home. I'he
18 building, ac-
ndred persons,
workers.
Every meal is
ecial fields for
is part of the
called out for
he map and all
>me lone heart
: of the China
it is most in-
d has given this
I trials of thirty
c points of this

3ual to read ex-

"1'

CHINESE IDOLS, NATIVE CITY, SHANGHAI.

SHANGHAI AND ITS MISSIONARY WORK.

367

:Mi

ei,)smsmmmtiimiv

tracts from the letters that are ever coming from the field,
and telling of the triumphs as well as the trials of the work.
We are so glad to say that the former were far in the ascen-
dent at all the meetings that we attended, and that many of
the incidents that were given from Yunnan and Kwcichow,
from Kiangsi and Szchuen of the things that had been hap-
pening the previous week, were thrilling and truly apostolic.
God is working to-day, especially in North China, in the
hearts of the Chinese, and especially through many of the
native preachers, in a way that fills our hearts with hope

and joy.

We had the opportunity of witnessing for Christ on
Sabbath morning and evening to large English audiences
containing many missionaries, and we were the recipients of
many personal kindnesses and courtesies. Among these were
not a few old workers and missionaries. It was a great pleas-
ure to meet dear Anna More in her Presbyterian Home, and
to find a little More added to her life and happiness, as well
as home circle. Her husband. Rev. Mr. Silsby, has an excel-
lent work at South Gate, Shanghai. Mr. and Mrs. Evans are
doing a good and useful work in their Missionary Home and
Agency. Mr. and Mrs. Fitch are connected with the Presby-
terian Publishing House. Dr. Farnham is in Mission work in
Shanghai. Miss Fannie Smith has become Mrs. Dr. Woods,
and is up on the Grand Canal in her husband's field. Mr.
Ferguson, of Nanking, who was the host and friend of some
of our early missionaries, was in Shanghai. We also met Dr.
Corbett, of the Presbyterian Mission in Chefoo, which God

■ UW'

.i-A.

368 L.ih'cF.R or'Ji.oohs ox i\f/ss/ox.ih'y /..i.\/)S.

has so richly blessi;'i, dear Mr. McK<)izie, of Swatow, with
whom we had hallo ved foUowsliip, ami a good many whom
we had previously ksiovii or wnh wltoin we had some special
ties.

Ou Tuesday afternoon a large gathering, including most
of the missionaries in Shanghai, and a number who happened
to be in the city at the lime, assenibled in the chapel of the
China Ir lind Mis.' ion to extend to ris a welcome in behalf of
our missionary 'Aork. This v/as an unexpected kindness,
and it was most courteccsly and heartily given. It was in
response to an invitation from our host and friend, Mr. Stev-
enson, whose kindness wo canno"^ too gratefully acknowl-
edge.

After the usual English cup of tea and sandwiches, we
were glad to hav* the opportunity of explaining the object
and plan of our work, and laying it upon the hearts of th'^se
dear workers for China. There had been some misunder-
standings, especially in connection with the sending out of so
great a number of Swedes at one time. It was feared by
many that so largo a number could not well be received and
properly located at one time, and that any mistake in this
direction might unfavorably affect missionary work in other
parts cf China. As our readers kuow, we had already antici-
pated those dangers before leaving England, and since our
arrival in China had been very busy arranging the details
of this great undertaking, and we were able to assure om*
missionary friends that every precaution had been taken,
and still would be, to guard against anything that could

"m^

Swatow, with
I many whom
,(1 some special

ncluding most
who liappenocl
3 chapel of tho
ne in behalf of
3ted kindness,
en. It was in
end, Mr. Stev-
ully acknowl-

andwiches, we
ling the object
hearts of th'^se
)nie misunder-
iding out of so
was feared by
)e received and
nistake in this
- work in other
already antici-
and since our
ing the details
) to assure our
id been taken,
ling that could

ip ■, ; '

sir.ixcir.ir AXf> its .v/ss/ox.ia'v uork.

369

inimTil this work or i.tejuako the work of utlu-rs. We
were also glad to tell our f-iends of the profound nussionary
movement which God was stirring up in the hearts of so
many at home, and the enlarged hopes lie was givn>g us of
the evangelization of China and the world in this g.nerat.<,n
At the close of the message W(> receivinl a very kn.d wel-
come in the name of the missionaries present, from the ven-
eral.le Dr. Muirhead, of the London Missionary Society, the
senior missionary in Shanghai, and the companion and suc-
cessor of Dr. Medhurst, and the early founders of nnss.onary
work in China. We were deeply touched as this dear old
man recalled his early experience, and reminded a later gen-
eration of the changes which he had seen in China, and then
welcomed us to a share in its mission work and told us hat
it was the great mission field of the world, and one which
would repay, in ahundant measure, all the efforts expended

""^'"it^was a great privilege to meet this great hody of men
and women who had been standing face to face with the
needs of China, some of them for more than forty years ; and
we were encouraged in the name of the Christians of Anwica
to take a new hold with them for the evangelization of China,
in the remaining years of this century. There was an attend-
ance of more than one hundred and fifty, of whom the large
proportion were missionaries. We have been impressed with
the earnestness of the missionaries in Shanghai, and their
catholic and united spirit.

We had the pleasure of meeting at this gathering, Epis-

■*-«

.-sr"

370

LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS,

copal (li.ujnitaijos, ni<l Imniblo lay missi< uuies sido by Hide,
Nt.rthcMii and Southciii I'losbytorians, Mitbodista and Bap-
tists, and men of <»ther natncs, all imited in love for Christ
and China. We saw much in the ai)irit of the niiHsionaries
we met in Shanghai to fill us with Btiong hope for the pro-
gross of Christianity in China in the next seven years. There
ha» becai mu<'h prayer for the outpouring of the Holy (ihost,
and most of the missionaries wo have met in Cliina are look-
ing, we believe, in the right direction for the blessing which
China needs to-day.

Many of the great societies are strongly represented in
Shanghai. Here the China Inland Mission have their receiv-
ing home and their Central Offices and stores for the enor-
mous business connected with the directing and supi.iying a
force of over five hundrtul missionari's in all parts of China.
Here, also, those great pioneer and auxiliary missionary
agencies, the British aa i American Biblo Societies, have their
headipxarters for China, and n stafif of strong ; nd levoted
v-.rkers. Here tlio old Loi 1 Missionary Si.< i(>ty has a
j^ood local work, and a nun'ber of laborei The Northern
Presbyteriu, '^'hurch ha- a number of lab-ters in hanghai,
and a large printing and publishing depart men. Mi .no
luudred employes, under the superintendence ot our be-
u)ved br<ther. Rev. Geo. F. Fitch. The Sort hern Methodists
have a very strong work and . ine edm itional establishment,
under the care of Dr. Young Allen, now at home. The
Church Missionaiy Society 's represented !)y Venerable Arch-
deacon Moule; and the Prott tant Episc pal Church of Amer-

)• LANDS.

ics side by side,
lodists and Bap-
1 lovo for Christ
tho missionaries
u>pe for tho pro-
ven years. There
the Holy Ghost,
I diina aro look-
\i blessing which

r represented in
avu t lieir receiv-
es for the enor-
and supplying a
. parts of China,
iary missionary
neties, have their
mg iud vlevoted
•y So< jfity has a
The Mt)rthem
ei-s in 'Shanghai,
Irnen, *h aie
lemo of <i 'le-
•hern Methodists
lal estal>Ushment,
at home. The
Venerable Arch-
Church of Amer-

SHAN^HAf AA'P ITS MISSION A R V n'ORK. ^^l

ica l.y Vonerahle Archdeacon Thompson. Tho Southern
Baptists, the American Church of tl. IMsciplos and the
Seventh 1 )ay Baptists have each several laborers in Shanghai.
The Woman's Union Missionary S- doty of New York, found-
ed by Mrs. Dorenms, has an excellent h.' pital and Bov.>ral
missionaries. There is a Chinese Tract Society, a Seaman 8
Mission, a Mission for the ^

Japanese, a V/oman's ' ^^^ '

Christian Temperance Un-
ion, and a Christian Vernac-
ular Society. There are
two Union Churches, with
services in English, one
meeting in Masonic Hall
and the other in the Union
Church edifice. " The
Chinese Recorder " is pub-
lished monthly by the Pres-
byterian Tress, and the
"Chinese Messenger" by-
Rev. Timothy Richards.

The first two parties of
our Swedish Missionaiies
had already arrived, and
through the wonderful
goodness of God, bad been
provided for and coudu t* d
safely on their way, wiih-

PAOODA NEAR SHANGHAI.

...-sT"

372

l.ARCER orn.OOKS OS MISSIONARY t.AXDS.

out any w-rious luisadveutuiv. P.iit l.a<l a largor muuber
come at i-ivHcnt, «.f Iwul there bt'cu u pi -siKJct of srveral ad-
(litional parties c-oiuing thin r,.>as<)n. it wcmM Iimvo Ix^eii
attemkd with nericus (lithculty and inconveuience, and
would have been theocasiou of miieh concern on the i>art
of other missionaries.

We cannot thank Go<l enough, both f..r wliat has and
what has not been done. As it is, a body of forty-live new
missionaries, making, >vith their superintendents, over fifty,
have gone to Northern Shansi, and are preparing for nnssion-
ary labors in Northern China, under the most hopeful aus-
spices. Tins alone is a very lar-o body of missionaries, as
large, perhaps, as the nuniber of any other society in China,
except the China Inland Mission. Their training will engage
the utmost -are and capacity of their overseers, and their
nund)er will be sufficient to occupy very fairly the large and
populous district assigned to them. As soon as they shall
have been properly introduced to their work and assigned to
their stations, and their uccess shall have shown the entire
practicability of the arrangements here, another party can
follow them with the opening of next season,— a larger party
if the circumstances justify it ; and fVo work can be indefi-
nitely multiplied, if the Lord shall continue to provide the
means, agencies and openings.

It is simply a debt of justice and an obligation of the
barest courtesy to say that we owe very much, indeed, of the
facility with which the transit and location of our Swedish
friends has been effected, to the kindness and wise coopera-
tion of Rev. W. I. Stevenson and the China Inland Mission.

LANDS.

larger luunber
of several ad-
ild havo l)(!eii
ivt'uien<-<>, and
)ru on tho part

• wliat has and
forty-tivo now
ents, over fifty,
iiig f(ir mission-
st hopeful aus-
niissiouaries, as
ociety in China,
ling will engage
■seers, and their
y tho largo and
)n as they shall
and assigned to
iiown tho entire
other party can
,— a larger party
k can be indefi-
3 to provide the

obligation of the
3h, indeed, of the
of our Swedish
,nd wise coopera-
% Inland Mission.

.^aiiiiiftywM -

SHANCUAI ASn ITS MISSION AR V WO 'h 373

Tli<" Suporintendent of tho Mission is Mr. l-lniaruiel Ols-
sen. Mr. Ulssen is tho son of a proniin-'nt Swedish gentlo-
nian, and has gladly devoted himself to a self denying mis-
sionary life for his Master's sake. He has bee.i in China bo-
t\v(H>n two and three years, and has ac(iuired the language
and become a((|uaint(«d with th(> peoi>le. He is very nnuh
encouraged in his work, and already the Lord has put His
seal upon it in Northern China.

The field they havu taken is Northern Shansi. It lies
outside tho great wall, and is occupied by a vast population
of simple, agricultural i.eople, who are very kindly disposed
toward them, and a good many already are in(iuiring into

the Gos])el.

The field reaches tho borders of M(mgolia, and sonie of
them, no doubt, will be led of the Lord to that great people,
among whom, there is, asy^t, no single voice to tell of Jesus

and salvation.

We thank God for the hopeful connnencemont of the
Alliance Mission North Shansi- -and commend it to God
and tho prayers of His i)eople.

This movement, if wisely directed, will become a great
blessing to China and prove tho beginning of a wide-spread
system^of evangelization on simple and deeply spiritual linos.

These dear people have a simplicity of faith and capacity
for self.lenia], hardship and endurance which are much
needed in China, and will prove a most helpful inspiration
foall the other workers. There is no sort of doubt about
their being able to live and do good work in Northern China

374 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

for the modest sum which they themselves have proposed.
We feel sure that both they and their leaders are men and
women of deep piety, and filled with the Holy Ghost, and
that they will have the direction and blessing of God and the
constant prayers of all our people, and that ere long the first
stage of their work will be so fully established that the way
will be open for sending them larger reinforcements.

Hit

-TS-^-i— ? ,

T'" ".ISfi '

LANDS.

ave proposed,
are men and

)ly Ghost, and

•f God and the
long the first
that the way

aents.

XXI.
ON THE YANGTSE.

FIVE great rivers compete for the queenship of the
waters,— the Nile, the Mississippi, the La Plata, the
Amazon and the Yangtse. Two of these we have not
seen, hut certainly none of the others pour such a volume of
water to the sea as the noble Yangtse. ^Xq have spent three
weeks upon its hosom, passing up and down, and it grows
upon us day by day in its immensity and impoi Wnce. More
like an inland sea than a river, in many places, so broad is its
tide that our ship rolled and pitched in its current like a vessel
in the ocean, as far as three hundred miles f re m the sea ; and
even at Hankow and Wuchang, six hundred miles from its
mouth, so rough were its waves the day we left Hankow that
it was deemed scarcely safe, one part of the day, for the large
ferry boats to cross, and they told us that they were often
upset in the heavy sea and swift current. There, even, it is p
mile wide, and the great tea-ships, drawing nearly thirty feet
of water, were lying at anchor in its waters ready to start to
London direct with their first fresh cargoes. Up and down
its teeming waters pass thousands of Chinese boats, ]>lying
their busy trade, and the ships of all nations can be recog-
nized at the vario" is ports.

375

376 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIOXARY LANDS.

Several lines of fine passenger steamers run from Shang-
hai to Hankow, and there are sometimes two or three daily.
They look just like our American river boats, and while
owned by Chinese companies, are run by European officers.
Above Hankow there is r(>gular steam navigation several
times a Aveek, nearly four hundred miles farther to the city
of Icliang ; and above Ichang, the river is navigable for
steamboats for six hundred miles farther, all the way up to
Chung King, the metropoHs of Sz-chuen ; but the Chinese
authorities, with their usual conservatism, have, as yet, re-
fused to allow the foreigner to run liis engines up these sacred
channels. As a sample of their ridiculous policy of obstruc-
tion, it is seriously reported that when the question of allow-
ing steamers on the upper Yangtse was referred, some time
ago, to the Mandarins, they reported gravely that it would
not be well to attempt it as the monkeys in the gorges of the
Upper Yangtse were exceedingly fierce, and would throw
stones down upon the ships and injure them.

This part of the river is now ascended by cargo boats,
which are pulled up the strong current by trackers, who walk
along the bank. At this season, when the current is strong
and the river high, it takes our missionaries a month lo go
from Ichang to Chung King, a distance which can be accom-
l^lished down the river in two days, so swift is the descending
tide. No wonder they hope and pray for the day when the
fear of these dreadful monkeys will be overcome, and the
whistle of the engine will be heard in the Yangtse gorges.
Dur time woidd only allow us to go as far as Hankow.

■PP

ANDS,

11 from Sliang-
or three daily.
its, and while
opean officers,
gatioii several
ler to the city
]iaviji;able for
the way up to
ut the Chinese
ivc, as yet, re-
Li]) these sacred
icy of ohstruc-
jstion of allow-
red, some time
{ that it would
le gorges of the
1 would throw

hy cargo boats,
;kers, who walk
rrent is strong
a month lo go
1 can be accom-
; the descending
e day when the
rcome, and the
Ligtse gorges.
Far as Hankow.

OX 77 n- VAXGTSn.

It would have required a month or two longer to penetrate
the heart of Sz-chuen, and so we could only look upward
from the mouth of the Han, and borrow the eyes of others
whom we met, who had traversed these upper streams and
explored the vast interior of China.

ABOVE ICHANQ.

Although this river ])asses through the most densely-
populated section of China, yet there is little sign ui.on its
shores of the teeming myriads that cover all these regions as
thickly of ien as seven hundred to the square mile. In Amer-
ica such a river would be lined with bright and busy towns.
But here all is loneliness. A few cities appeal- upon the

378 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

banks ; with some striking landmarks, such as Wuhu, Ku-
kiang and Hankow, with their foreign houses standing out in
bold relief ; but most of the native towns are so low and flat,
or surrounded with dead vvjills that are scarcely noticeable.
And so we passed such world- renowned places as Nanking,
without anything unusual to attract our attention, and Wuhu
was really the first point of striking interest, at which we
touched and tarried.

The approach to Wuhu is quite picturesque. A good
many hills overlook the town, and a number of foreign build-
ings stand out in bold relief. The most imposing of these is
the Methodist Episcopal Mission, on a high promontory over-
looking the river, and about a mile above the town. The
British Consulate, the Commissioner of Customs and the
Eoman Catholic Mission occupy prominent and elevated situ-
ations. Wuhu is a Treaty Port, and a place of considerable
commercial importance. It is said to have the largest export,
trade in rice in the Empire. The population is about 100,000,
and it is altogether a place of much more importance than
we supposed, ra^^king with any of the river cities, except
Shanghai or Hankow. It is the chief city in the Province of
Ghanwhei, and its river system connects it with most of the
inland towns very easily and directly. The province had, be-
fore the rebellion, a population of about thirty millions, equal
to one-half the United States, but it is now much reduced. It
lies north and south of the Yangise River, in a very central
position, and is very thicky settled. Almost all the land is
capable of cultivation and is fully occupied.

LANDS.

IS Wuhu, Ku-
tanding out in
) low and flat,
ely noticeable.
s as Nanking,
ion, and Wuhu
I, at which we

;que. A good
foreign build-
Qg of these is
montory over-
le town. The
;toms and the
I elevated situ-
if considerable
largest export
about 100,000,
iportance than
cities, except
he Province of
;h most of the
ovince had, be-
millions, equal
ich reduced. It
a very central
all the land is

m-r~rr-"W*j ' ;

3
X

z
g

(0
10

I
o

■\m

ON THE YANGTSE.

379

We found our dear missionaries at Wuhu waiting for us
on the hulk where the steamers land, and we had a joyful
meeting They were all there except Miss Murray, who is
temporarily at Nanking, and Mr. and Mrs. Johnston, who
are at Tatung, about fifty miles further up the river. They
were all well, and we spent two or three days with them m
much conference and prayer respecting the work. The party
at Wuhu consists, at present, of four ladies and ten brethren.
They are hving in three houses ; the ladies in one, and the
gentlemen in the other two, in a sort of Bachelor's Home

style. , , 1 • 1

While at Wuhu we were the recipient ot much kmdness
from Dr. and Mrs. Stuart of the M. E. Mission. We also had
the pleasure of meeting Mr. and Mrs. Longden, of the same
Mission. Mr. Drysdale, of the China Inland Mission, proved
a valuable friend in some important business transactions, in
which his Chinese experience was very generously placed at

our service.

We had several public services, which were attended by a
good many of the foreign residents, and we believe o«<^ or
two r-ecious souls were led to fully decide for Christ.

We found our young men carrying on a good work
an ong the English and American oflkials of the Customs
.P ^Ice After a few days' stay, we hastened on up the river,
intending to complete our visit here on our return. Half a
dav's sail brought us to the pretty town of Tatung, on the
same side of the river. Here Mr. Johnston was waiting to
welcome us, and an hour's sail from the landing, in a sampan.

380 LARGER OUTLOOKS OX MISSIOXARV LANDS.

brought us to his house. Here we met liis wife and two
childreu, and another missionary laboring with him at pres-
ent, and we tarried two days looking over the field with him,
and endeavoring to plan for the best interests of the work.

Mr. Johnston left the Tabernacle in New York ten years
ago, to prepare for missionary work, and about six years ago
came to Cliina, in connection with the C. I. M. Three years
ago he left their service, and, one year later, he joined our
Mission. Tatung seems to be a very promising field. Oppo-
site Tatung is an island, containing a large city of nearly 'JO,-
OOO peoide, and Tatung, itself, has nearly as many people.
They are very friendly, and almost all seemed to know Mr.
Johnston, and to look upon him quite kindly. It was the
only place in China where even the dogs did not once bark at
us. And this is a very fair sign of the friendly disposition of
their masters, and their familiarity with foreigners.

Mr. Johnston has an excellent native worker, and carries
on a constant chapel service every day and evening, and has
some hopeful inquirers.

There seems to be a fine opportunity for work here.
Back of the town is a hill commanding one of the finest
views in China, which would make a beautiful site for Mis-
sion premises, and all around is a large, unoccupied country,
accessible by the innumerable waterways of Central China.
Mr. Johr ston has a fine command of the Chinese language,
and gets on well with the people.

He wears the Chinese costume, and we havo no doubt
■that this is, by far, the best way for interior work. In the

lite

.- liffliiro'iBjfCTffl —

LANDS.

^vife and two
1 him at pros-
icld with him,
)f tlio work,
fork ten years
t six years ago
Three years
, he joined our
y field. Oppo-
r of nearly 20,-
\ many people.
1 to know Mr.
y. It was the
:)t once hark at
\f disposition of
gners.

ier, and carries
'^ening, and has

'or work here,
e of the finest
All site for Mis-
cupied country.
Central China,
inese language,

havo no doubt
r work. In the

ox rnr. vAXcrrsr..

38T

treaty ports it does not make much ditference, and we have,
as yet, no rigid rule on the subject. But, in the interior, it
is, no doubt, much preferable in every way. If there was
no other reason, the difference that it maker, in the ex-
pense of travelling on the river steamers woubl bc> sufficient
to decide the question.
By wearing this dress
one can travel in Chinese
style, which is not at all
uncomfortable, as we
can testify from a little
experience. You can got
a cabin on the upper deck
by a little management,
and a seat at the private
table of the compador or
Chinese steward, and
thus have a fair measure
of privacy. And the dif-
ference in price is simply
out of all proportion to
the difference in comfort.
A regular English passenger will pay about $30 f^'om Shang-
hai to Hankow, and the fare in Chinese cabin, is less than %,3.
As to the comfort and convenience of the costume, there
is great disparity of opinion. Our unbiased ju^S-ent is that
most of those not wearing this costume dislike it And the
great majority of those who wear it, prefer it for all purposes.

A CHINESE RAIN COAT.

, Jl,J-,;,i,,i_4y^i-ja>i!Jy-nB»»ili!"«!«-.-"

! jajlW!.;J.;m:'v-:.;jarfkt«!.^..fk,*w'A^

382 LARGER Ol LOOKS ON MISSIOXARY LANDS.

It has some disaava.itagc for la<lies. It has nc provision for
a covering for the head, so needed in this climate, and the
umbrella is scarcely >mrient. lUit many now n-ear liats
with it. The shoes are also rather uncomfortable, and the
shaving of tbe head is an av kward necessity for ni-ii. But,
upon the whole, it is -asx , cemtortable, very gra^ etui and
liandsome, cool in sum <'r. i id in winter .susceptible of any
amount of padding and \. armtli.

We would not advise any lady to go to China for interior
work who is not prep. 1 red < wear this costume without ob-
jection or prejudice, and those who ' » not wear 1: should,
as a rule, stay in the older cent res \ work on the more
conservative hues of the older Mi sions. It is not, ' 'uy
means, contined to the China Inland Mission, but is ^' '^y
many of the Presbyterian, Lo.id*, , and other missionaries
in their interior work.

From Tatung we went on up the river to Gangking, the
capital of the province of Ghanwhei. This is the seat of the
China Inland Receiving Home, where the gentlemen who
come out as missionaries remain for six months studying the
language, and getting their first introduction to Chinese life.
This home is under the care of Mr. Bailer and wife, and it
was a great privilege to meet these choice spirits, and td
spend a day with them and nearly twenty of their students.
It is needless to say that they are pecuharly adapted to their
work. Mrs. Bailer is a born mother, and no young man
there is allowed to feel that he is far from home, and she is
just as able, with her tender, spiritual wisdom, to minister to
their souls as to look after their darning and their dining.

ON THE YANGTSE.

383

LAM>S.

provision for
irnate, ;ui<i the
ovv ""ear liuts
rtabio, and the
for ni'm. But,
y gra( etui and
,ceptil)le of any

lina for interior
me '^'ithoul ob-
wear 1 should,
'k oil the more
is not, ' 'uy
but is ^' y

ler missionaries

» Gangking, the
s the seat of the
gentlemen who
ths studying the

1 to Chinese life,
and wife, and it
) spirits, and tO
f their students,
adapted to their

no young man
home, and she is
m, to minister to
[ their dining.

Mr. Bailor la a tine Chinese scholar and an experienced
missionary, possessing that peculiar combination of (lualities
which iitH one to shape the lives and characters of others
without seeming to control them. It is the hand of iron and
the touch nf velvet. Such helpers are a great boon to a home,
and N ahoui them a hr.meisof doubtful value. But under
such liapnv !' OS it is a great hcli) to a young missionary,

on i,i fi in a strange laud, to have the privilege of

learniir nguage and preparing for his future work in

such a . . a and helpful atmosphere. The first half year

of a m, nary's life, and sometimes the first week, decides
his future missionary career, and gives a life-long impulse or
check to all his life work. The most serious mistake any
work can make, is to send single missionaries abroad before
the work is piepared, or the superintendence provi.led, with-
out which much of their nn vk and even tb. ir most ddigent
study is apt to be ill-directed, and perhaps wasted.

We had much delightful fellowship and profitable con-
ference with the friends at Gangking. In the afternoon we
walked around the city, just outside the walls, and saw it on
every side. Nothing so touched our heart as the great field
of human graves that stretched away for miles all along the
north side. It was, indeed, the City of the Dead. It seemod
as if millions must be sleeping there, and they all looked a. if
they were reproaching us because we had let them die in
C uristless darkness. It was the only part of China that we
had seen without living people. Many of these had been
slain during the Taiping Rebellion. At that awful time, of

w mt*«'iji*«Hrj«s ' ; * : ^ if ' f^f%^-P:^^l^ix^^^^^ ?^)

3«4

LARGER Orrf.OOk'S ON MfSSfOX.lRY /..IX/)S.

which wt> shall speak again, tho Taii)iiigs hud captured tho
city, and iimi(lered all who would not accept their rule and
creed. And afterwards, when tho IniiJerialists reoccupitMl it.
they beheaded all who had been rebels, so that between tho
two lir(-s the poor Chinaman had a hard chance for his life.

We left Gangking at sunset, and our friends escorted us
outside tho city walls, and then returned, as the gates had to
be shut at night. In a little native inn, on tho river bank, Ave
waited for our steamer till three o'clock in the morning-
alone. It was a little taste of life in tho interior. It would
have been nothing if we had known the language. But we
could not speak a word of Chinese, and they could not speak
a word of English.

But wo got on very well and did not feel a touch of lone-
liness or fear. We had a single native Christian with us and
he kindly helped us to i^nbark, although he knew not a word
of English. But his face shone with holy intelligence. At
length the steamer came along and stopped out in the river,
till our native boat took us out, and they tumbled us and our
baggage on board and we steamed away to Hankow. Our
old native Christian parted with us with much afl\'ction.

A party of seventeen soldiers also came on board with a
poor prisoner in charge, whom wo went down, with the cap-
tain, the next day to see. He was a pitiful sight. His hands
and feet were chained, and around his neck was a great ox-
chain fastened to a straight bamboo pole at his neck. The
heavy chain crushed his neck. His posture was most pain-
ful, and his face was white with fear, as these seventeen sol-

'jmMH

"mj' i'lipi

'./IXDS.

captured tho
tlicir rule :uul
i rcoccupieil it,
t between tlio
a for liislife.
ids escorted us
10 gates liad to
river bank, we
tbe morning —
rior. It would
[uaj^e. But we
ould not speak

I toucli of lone-
iau with us and
new not a word
itelligence. At
it in the river,
bled us and our
Hankow. Our
h afV<'ction.
»n board with a
n, with the cap-
ght. His hands
»vas a great ox-
his neck. The
was most pain-
\e seventeen sol-

IMAGE EVALUATION
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23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, NY. 14580

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CIHM/ICMH

Microfiche

Series.

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Collection de
microfiches.

Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut canadien de microreproductions historiques

'.m

ON THE YANGTSE.

385

diers stood around him with spears poiuted and carbines
loaded. He was charged with being a member of the pohti-
cal society known as the ^^ Ko-loa-ivhei,^'' which is said to
have incited the riots of two years ago. They are taking
him up to Wuchang before the Viceroy, for trial and execu-
tion, but we could not help asking God somehow to spare the
poor fellow's life, and we trust in eternity to find that it was
not in vain

All along this rivei-, at that time, from Ichang to Nan-
king, it was a time of terror and danger. Wuhu was the
chief centre of violence, and there the Roman Catholic build-
ings were destroyed and all the missionaries compelled to
flee. At the peaceful little town of Wusui, near Hankow, an
English missionary, Mr. Argent, was murdered, and a Cus-
tom's officer cut to pieces. At Wuchang a rising was ex-
pected, and the foreign gunboats were ready at a signal to
shell the town if it was attempted, and a place upon the
walls preconcerted where the missionaries should meet incase
of danger. Very few people now believe that there was any
political society back of these riots, or anything worse than
the crookedness and meanness of ihe Mandarins themselves,
who are said to hate the foreigners, and, while professing
friendship, are really the secret inciters of many a disturb-
ance and the greatest obstacle in tho way of sending the Gos-
pel to the interior towns.

No one who has not lived in China can understand this
official crookedness. The Chinese Mandarin is said to be a
man with a mask. In the same city will be often seen a

386 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

public proclamation against foreigners anonymously circu-
lated by the runners of the Official, and, at the same time,
another proclamation signed by the Official condemning all
these anonymous proclamations, and declaring that they are
circulated by bad and unworthy people. The former is to
promote anti-foreign feeling, the latter to keep up an appear-
ance of uprightness and good behavior.

At the same time we feel it due to say that while this was
the general opinion among the missionaries of the older soci.
eties in Central China, we have heard some very different
statements from the most experienced workers of the China
Inland Mission in the interior. Indeed, they have assured us,
and shown us letters to prove that often the Mandarins are
their best friends, and honestly endeavor to protect them, and
do the very best thing they can for them in the face of the
strong anti-foreign prejudices of the scholars and gentry.
Upon the whole, we have concluded that the shield has two
sides, and both statements are true, under varying circum-
stances.

We reached Hankow on Saturday morning, and spent
"three days in this great metropolis of interior China. It is a
very fine city indeed. Its foreign Bund or settlement is only
less imposing than Shanghai. The native city is three times
as large, and much finer in every way, while two other great
cities— Hanyang and Wuchang— lie right across the Han
and Yangtse rivers, whose waters here meet. The three
cities together have over a million inhabitants.

Wuchang is the capital of the two Provinces of Hupeh

RY LANDS.

onymously circu-
t the same time,
il condemning all
ing that they are
The former is to
eep up an appear-

hat while this was
of the older soci.
me very different
•kers of the China
ly have assured us,
ihe Mandarins are
protect them, and
n the face of the
olars and gentry,
he shield has two
r varying circura-

orning, and spent
ior China. It is a
settlement is only
city is three times
ile two other great
; across the Han
meet. The three
nts.
rovinces of Hupeh

H
m

■0

IHI

ox THE YASGTSE.

387

and Hunan, and a fine city of more than a quarter of a million
people. Its houses are of a better class that any city we have
seen in China. It is largely inhabited by official people.
Hanyang is the smallest of the three, and lies between the two ,
on the promontory formed by the meeting of the Han and the
Yangtse. Hankow is the commercial capital, and has many
fine streets and stores,— that is, for China. It is the Empo-
rium of the trade of nine great provinces, containing among
them two hundred millions of people. It is, in a word, the
Chicago of China, while Shanghai is the New York of the
Empire,

There are several strong Missions here ; the oldest and
strongest is the London Society. Rev. Griffith John is its
oldest and best-known representative. We had met him in
America, and were sorry to find that he was absent in the
country on a tour, but we received the greatest kindness
from his family, and from all the other members of the Mis-
sion. We had a good opportunity of seeing their work, and
a good and substantial work it is. Its methods are conserv-
ative and careful, but its results are solid, if somewhat slow.
We saw two of their native congregations on the Sabbath,
and it was very inspiring to see that body of two or three
hundred native Christians, mostly men, and to remember
that they had been gathered, one by one, from heathenism.

They have three chapels in Hankow, where daily services
are held, and a few stations in the country, in the vicinity.
They have about a dozen English and as many native mis-
sionaries. This is the result of thirty years of hard and

388

j.APnnm orri.ooKS on missionary lands.

faithful work. When we asked one of their workers about
the prospect of multiplying their workers, this was his
answer: "If our Board wei-e to send us seven or eight
more missionaries, we should welcome them ; if they were
to send us twenty, we should not know what to do with
them." This well represents the conservative method of
Missions in its best and most successful form. No wonder
we asked, " When are you going to reach all the millions of
China at this rate?" And no wonder missionaries, who see
no larger possibility for China, are led to believe in a 'larger
hope," and some second chance for these lost millions in a
future world. Thank God there is a better way. Notwith-
standing the wise and honest convictions of such honored
workers, we believe there is room in China for not only
twenty more, but for men enough to occupy all her centres
of population before the close of the present centuiy. And
we believe that, by the gra^^e of God, it shall be done.

We spent some pleasant hours with Mr. and Mrs. Arnold
Foster, of the London Mission, in whose home Miss Stowell,
of Boston, once associated with our Alliance, spent two years.
We had one very interesting hour in the Hankow Hospital
with Dr. Gillison, witnessing his treatment of thirty or forty
outdoor patients, and seeing some samples of Chinese dis-
eases, and the nature and value of Medical Missions. We
had the privilege of teaching a Chinese Bible class through
an interpreter, and seeing their bright, responsive minds. We
were permitted to preach to the English congregation on Sab-
bath evening, and trust the Lord was pleased to bless Hi»
Word.

V LAATDS.

ON THE y.liYGTSF.

389

ir workers about
rs, this was his
19 seven or eight
sm ; if they were
what to do with
ative method of
)rni. No wonder
ill the millions of
iionaries, who see
lievein a ** larger
lost millions in a
r way. Notwith-
of such honoi-ed
ina for not only
py all her centres^
nt century. And
ill be done.
.'. and Mrs. Arnold
ome Miss Stowell,
;, spent two years.
Hankow Hospital
j of thirty or forty
>8 of Chinese dis-
cal Missions. We
Jible class through
onsive minds. We
Qgregation on Sab-
leased to bless Hi»

We visited the two Swedish Missions, respectively in Han-
kow and Wuchang, and also met the workers of the China
Inland Mission, who have a business station here for the sup-
ply of all their interior stations, and are now erecting now
premises for stores and offices. We crossed the rough river
to Wuchang, and visited several of the Missions there, and
looked at some premises with a view to opening a station here
for our own future work. This is, necessarily, the point of
transition for all interior stations, and, if we are going to go
farther West, it will be necessary for us to have a branch of
our work here. It is, especially, tl>.e starting point for
Hunan, the great unoccupied province of Central China, and
sustaining the same relation to it as Qnangsi to the South,
and Thibet to the West.

So far the Hunanese have suifered no foreigner to settle
in their province. Many have visited it, but only to be
treated harshly and driven out. But God is working for
Huuan, and it is soon to be opened to the Gospel ; if not by
foreigners, at least by natives.

Of late there have been many remarkable tokens of a
rising of the native Christians to evangelize their own land.
While we were calling at the Londor ^.'ssion in Hankow, we
were delighted to meet two natives who were just returning
from a missionary tour through that province. We had
their story translated to us, and it was thrilling in its simple,
apostolic interest.

One of them is an old man, a voluntary evangelist, who
receives no salary and is under no Society, but simply a mem-

390 LARGER orrr.ooKs ox mtssioxary r..txns.

ber of tlie Wualeyaii Mission. The other is a coolie, who was
called by the Spirit to accompany the other and carry his
books and baggage, and who went without pay. Each re-
ceived liis call apart from the other. Both had l)een praying
for Hunan, in their homes—about nine miles apart. After
praying awhile, the Spirit said to them, " What is the use of
your i)raying unless you do something yourself to answer
your prayer ? Why don't you go to Hunan ? " They thought
of their weakness, and the difficulty and danger of the field,
but God told them that He woidd be their Strength and Pro-
tector ; and so they told the Wesleyan missionary, Mr.
Warren, of their plan, and he and his people approved it, and
had a meeting to send them forth, and gave them a collection
of $8.00; and, with this as their capital and outfit, they
started on foot for the capital of Himan, and when we saw
them they were just returning from their first missionary
journey. It was not unlike Paul's, in some ways. They had
many perils and persecutions, but God had graciously de-
livered them and used them, and they were now going home,
with glad and grateful hearts, to tell the story of His good-
ness, and go forth again with more books and ti-acts for a
more extensive tour.

The older man was a fine sample of a native worker, full
of deep, solid earnestness and holy simplicity, and the rough,
uncultured country coolie v.-as just as interesting, his face
fairly shining as he told how he had been taken to the
"Yamen," before the magistrate, and forbidden to sell any-
more of these books or preach the Gospel, and how, when be

r.txns.

coolio, who was
• and carry his
l>iiy. Each re-
1(1 been praying
!s apart. After
iiat is the use of
iself to answer
They thought
ger of the field,
length and Pro-
nissionary, Mr.
approved it, and
liem a collection
Lud' outfit, they
d when we saw
first missionary
i^ays. They had
I graciously de-
ow going home,
ry of His good-
uid tracts for a

tive worker, full
, and the rough,
(resting, his face
n taken to the
Iden to sell any
id how, when he

ox Tin-: YANGTSE,

391

got hack to his friend, they went on as before, and the Lonl
had preserved them, and the very men who had opposed and
cursed them became their friends and b :>ught their books.

This is but a typo of the great movement which C'hina
needs for its full evangelization, and which God is already
preparing. Let us pray, let us work, let us believe, and wo
shall see the glory of God. It seemed like a voice from
heaven to us to meet this incident at the very moment of our
arrival in Central China, and we conunend our two dear
brethren, Chang-I-Tzu and Li-Quang-Ti, or, as we might ab-
breviate it, Chang and Li, to the pi-ayers of all who love to
remember China.

We would have been glad to go up to Ichang, the head of
steam navigation on the Yangtse, but it would have taken a
week longer and our time was already overrun. So we con-
tented ourselves with a good talk with our friends who had
been there, and especially Mr. Broomhall, who had just re-
turned from Ichang ; and then, amid the kind leave-takings
of many dear friends who " accompanied us unto the ship,"
we started down the great river for Wuhn, Nanking and

Shanghai.

Just before we sail let us take one ])arting glance up
these two mighty rivers to the vast fields that lie beyond.

Soufl of us lies the Province of Hunan, with a pop-
ulation gieater than all the Atlantic States combined,
without a single missionary ; and north, lies Honan, as large
and nearly as needy. Up the Yangtse we might travel thiity
days and reach Chung King, the commercial capital of Sz-

392

LARGER OVTLOOKS OX MISSrOX.IRV I.AXPS.

<lm«'ti, a provinco as populous as tlu' wholo of Franco, and just
iK'^Munin^Mo l)(.M'vanj;i'li/»Ml witliin tlu; i>ast few years. A
month still lartlu'rupthosanic river, lies Chontau, tho provinc-
ial capital of Sz-chuen, where our old friend, Mr. Hart, and a
lunnhcr of other missionaries have recently oi)enod stations.
It takes these dear workers two mouths from Shanghai to

ON THE UPPER YANQT8E.

reach their fields, and three months to get their letters from

home.

Still farther from Chung King to the southwest, is the
beautiful and mountainous province of Kwoi-chau, v^here the
China Inland Mission have i)lanted a few pioneer stations.
Up the Han to the northeast lie Shensi and Kansuh, with

/. ;.v/>.s.

ox Till-: YANGTSE.

393

'i-anco, and just
few years. A
uu, lIjo provinc-
[r. Halt, and u
ijH'iK'd stations.
m Shangliui to

leir letters from

iuthwest, is the
chau, v'here the
)ionoer stations,
i Kansuh, with.

tea millions of people most friendly and open, and with lum-
drcds of cities that are not yet entered, and where living is
fio clieap that one smiles when they hear the fiKures at which
houses can he rented and |)rovisions hought.

And in these vast jyrovinces, as yet only a little handful
cf jtionee'-s have placed the
soles oi' their feet. There are
empires of glorious ()i)poi-
tunity waiting for Faith and
Courage to contiuer. Were
we youngcn- and freer, how
our heart would spring to
claim them 1 Comi)ared with
them, how trifling the great-
est Held at home ! Ai'd we
wonder that even the niis-
eionary ahroad can he wil-
ling to settle down on some
comfortahle preserve, pre-
pared hy the toil and suffer-
ings of another, content tc
"build upon another man's
foundation." and not reach out to these " regions beyond "
where Cod is waiti)ig to give him a kingdom of sovds that
shall he forever, through the grace of Jesus, all his own.

Let us go forth, beloved, and claim our kingdom while
we may. The possibilities of Mission work in interior China
are immense, imperial. Millennial, and glorious indeed.

PAQODA ON THE YANQT8E.

XXII.

DOWN THE YANGTSE.

il •

THE journey down the great river is much more rapid
than the ascent. The swift current adds, at least, five
or six miles an hour to the tune the steamers make
going down. And so we reached Wuhu, from Hankow, in

about thirty hours.

We were in Hankow in the height of the tea season. It
is the great mart for China tea, and so the river was full of
tea ships, loading and leaving for London. These are splen-
did steamers, great ocean racers which compete for the quick-
est passrvge and the earliest cargoes of fresh tea for the Lon-
don market. One was just leaving with eleven million
pounds on board, -a cargo worth several million dollars.

The tea from all the surrounding country comes mto
Hankow, and here it is assorted, packed and shipped. The
tea business employs many hands, and a specific profession,
known as ' ' tea-tasting, " has grown up, which affords a lucra-
tive business to many foreigners. The " tea-taster " usually
receives a very large salary for his services during the tea
season, of about two months, and is a gentleman of leisure
for the rest of the year, residing at Shanghai or London or
wherever he pleases. His business is to test the teas that are

394

;h more rapid
s, at least, five
iteaniers make
11 Hankow, ia

tea season. It
'er was full of
lese are splen-
> for the quick-
afor the Lon-
eleveii milium
on dollars.
:ry comes into
shipped. The
ific profession,
affords a lucra-
;aster" usually
during the tea
iman of leisure
i or London or
he teas that arc

DOWN rm: yangtse.

395

offered, and they are assorted and hranded according to his
inspection. The tea production of China is quite different
from that of India Here it is all raised on small farms, by
the natives, and brought to market in small iiuantities by
innumerable sellers ; whereas, in India, it comes in large
quantities from great estates, which are all carried (m by

English planters.

The Hankow teas are usually black, and are of a superior
quality, although we are disposed to think that they are in-
ferior to the best India teas.

The tea u aiy drunk in China by the natives is green
tea. Tea-drinking is universal. The tea houses are every-
where, and, for less than a cent, you can always get a cup of
tea, in Chinese fashion. They put a few grains of tea in the
bottom of your cup, and pour boiling water over them and
then cover the cup and let it infuse. After two or throe min-
utes it is fit to drink. To put cream or sugar in it would
seem as strange to a Chinaman as it would to a Scotchman to
put sugar in his oatmeal porridge. They drink this univer-
sally, and think it very delicious and wholesome.

A Chinaman never drinks cold water, and thinks it
strange and dangerous for Europeans to do so. It is a great
mercy that this is so, for the habits of the people are so filthy
that were they to drink the raw water of their ponds and
rivers, the whole population would certainly be swept away
by cholera and other epidemics. The boiling of the water, in
the form of tea, is certainly a wise and providential arrange-
ment. As to the deliciousness of the tea, our experience was

306 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

too brief to reach a favorable conclusion. Our friends told us
we should soon come to prefer it to all other, but for the pres-
ent, at least, we have about the same opinion of it as we
should have of the Scotchman's porridge without the sugar.
We were not surprised to learn that the China tea trade
is suffering frt)m the competition from India. But it is still
an immense business, and has made Hankow a great city,
its trade last year, through the foreign customs, reaching
nearly $50, 000, 000.

We passed through some very beautiful scenery below
Hankow. The hills of Wusui are quite pretty, and the "Lit-
tle Orphan" is a picturesque island standing alone in the
river in romantic loneliness. The hills at Kui-Kiang, over-
hanging the Poyang Lake, and rising four or five thousand
feet high, are rather fine, and afford a superb location for a
summer hill station. The heat in July and August is said to
be very great, and some of the workers occasionally need a
change. Most of the missionaries find their best vacation in
their country touring. A trip in a house-boat among the
country villages, would be our favorite summer vacation. So
far as heat is concerned, we have, so far, found none in
China, and have suffered more from the cold than the heat
up to this date, the beginning of June. But the sun is very
strong, we believe, in the later summer, although bearing.no
sort of comparison with India.

We reached Wuhu on Wednesday morning, and spent
three days with our brethren of the Alliance Mission in very
important sessions for conference and prayer, and when we

^ LANDS.

f friends told us
)ut for the pres-
iou of it as we
lout the sugar,
^hina tea trade
But it is still
w a great city,
tonis, reaching

[ scenery below
r, and the "Lit-
[ig alone in the
Lui-Kiang, over-
)r five thousand
rb location for a
lUgust is said to
asionally need a
best vacation in
oat among the
ler vacation. So
found none in
id than the heat
b the sun is very
ough bearing.no

ning, and spent

Mission in very

jr, and when we

DOWN THE YANGTSE.

397

closed the conferences at the Table of our Lord on Friday
night, and finally parted at the steamer hulk, on Saturday
morning, we all felt that much had been accomplished, and
that our Mission work in China was about to enter on the
second chapter of its history, with nuich hopefulness and

blessing.

Our Mission in China has passed through peculiar trials,
commencing with the death of Mr. Cassidy on his way to the
field as its first pioneer and leader, and continuing from year
to year, through some difficulties, chief of which has been
the want of an experienced leader and a permanent organiza-
tion. But we believe that God has carried our beloved friends
safely through the early trials inseparable from every new
work and that the Mission will now go forward, under well-
matured plans and experienced leadership to sohd work and

steady growth.

We have now a party of sixteen American missicuanes
in Central China, all of whom have more or less fully acquired
the language and are ready to begin work. We have been
able to arrange for their organization and distribution m such
a manner as not only to provide for their highest usefulness,
but also for the opening of the way for others who may fol-
low them to the field in the immediate future.

One of the very first necessities of the work is the ap-
pointment of a capable and experienced Superintendent, not
only for this field, but for all our work in China, and this has
now been arranged to the satisfaction of all concerned ; and we
rejoice tohope that henceforth our work in China will be, under

398

LARGER OUTLOOKS OX MISSIONARY LANDS.

God, under the direction of a wise and strong hand, able to give
to it the care it requires and desires. Such leaders God has
given us in all our other fields, and without the most compe-
tent oversight on the field, our work in China cannot be
carried on successfully. The success of the China Inland
Mission is largely due, under God, to the wisdom, faith, and
personal administration of men like Mr. Taylor, Mr. Steven-
son, Mr. Bailer, and others whom God has specially fitted for
these great trusts.

The way is also opening for the distribution of our work-
ers in a number of new stations. Two of our brethren are
preparing to open a station south of Wuhu, and four of them
have two new fields in view on the north side of Wuhu, in
San-Ho, a city in the vicinity of Luchau-fu, on the Chow
Lake, and Han-San-Hsien, a city farther east in the province.
All these points have been visited by them and work begun,
and they are most important centres of vast and yet unoc-
cupied regions with millions of people.

It would be premature to say that certain cities will be
occupied ; for the opening of a new city in China is a very
different matter from what it is in India. In the latter coun-
try you can locate where you please, under British protection,
and all you have to do is to go and rent or build a house. But
in China it is a very different matter. You cannot go where
you please. You cannot go anywhere without the good will
of the people and the consent of the officials. You can visit
a town and be well received, but when you come to rent a
house, your difficulties begin. Many of the people might be

y LANDS.

hand, able to give
I leaders God has
the most compe-
China cannot be
he China Inland
isdom, faith, and
lylor, Mr. Steven-
ipecially fitted for

ition of our work-
: our brethren are
, and four of them

side of Wuhu, in
-fu, on the Chow
5t in the province.

and work begun,
ast and yet unoc-

ftain cities will be
in China is a very
In the latter coun-
British protection,
build a house. But
u cannot go where
hout the good will
lis. You can visit
ffou come to rent a
le people might be

DOWN THE YANGTSE.

399

willing to rent to you, but they are afraid. You might be
turned out and the house destroyed by a mob. In some cases
a man has been severely beaten by the Mandarin for renting
a house to a foreigner. The present attitude of the Chinese
officials is to allow as few stations to be occupied by foreign-
ers as possible. Much tact, wisdom, and patience are neces-
sary in opening new stations.

The Canadian Presbyterians have been five years in get-
ting two small stations opened in Honan, and in that time
they have had several disturbances. The Swedes, near Han-
kow, were escorted out of a city they had rented a house in,
the other day. The Norwegians, on the Han River, had just
been ordered to stop the erection of their new Mission house
the week before we were in Hankow. The building of a
foreign house in a new station is simply out of the question.
It will be a great thing to get a native house leased, and we
must not, therefore, be discouraged if our dear friends are
a little while in getting settled in San-Ho, Luchau-fu and
Han-San, and if they get marched out again more than once
after they do get in.

But they are going to put the sole o': their foot down on
new ground, and we shall back them up oy our earnest pray-
ers. The province of Ghanwhei, where they are settled, is
a large and populous one. It is the least occupied by mis-
sionaries of any of the Central Provinces of China. It had
34,000,000 people before the rebeUion, and may now have
20,000,000. It has five great Fu cities, of which only one,
we believe, is occupied by missionaries. The Fu city is the

400

LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

capital of a great provincial district. Next come the
H'schien cities, like our country towns. Tliere are more
than fifty of these in Ghanwhei, and not over half a dozen
of them have missionaries. Besides, there are innumerable
market towns of from ten to twenty thousand people, usu-
ally the best places for a missionary centre.

The field in Ghanwhei is about six times as great as the
whole ])rovince of Berar, in India, and it will bo seen that
there is ample room for many scores of laborers within it.
The people are fairly friendly, and the means of communica-
tion are very easy,— creeks and canals running past nearly
all the towns, and enal)ling the missionary to reach the field
and almost all his stations by boat. In this province we be-
lieve God would have us concentrate for the present nmch of
our China work, and aim, as in Berar, to occupy it fully, and
provide for the speedy evangelization o'f all its towns and
people.

Wuhu is its principal commercial city — its best centre of
operations. Here we shall have our headquarters, and from
hence distribute our workers over the province.

Here we propose to build a Receiving Home for new
missionaries, where they may come immediately on their
arrival, and spend six months in the study of the language
and preparation for their future work. We were fortunate
in being able, we believe, to secure a site for such a Home,
and we trust, ere long, to have a plain and suitable building.

Besides our work in this Province of Ghanwhei, the
Lord has shown us that we must also prepare, on a moder-

^ i.A^ins.

nou'.y THE vAscrsn.

401

'^ext comn the
riiere are more
er half a dozen
ire innumerable
ind people, usu-

s as great as the
nil 1)0 seen that
borers within it.
3 of communica-
ling past nearly
reach the field
province we be-
present much of
npy it fully, and
11 its towns and

its best centre of
arters, and from
ice.

; Home for new
idiately on their
of the language
e were fortunate
r such a Home,
luitable building.
' Ghanwhei, the
)are, on a moder-

ate scale, for future expansion to the interior and the farther
West. God is very plainly loading some of our missionaries
to the great closed field of Thibet, and Ho expects us iu faith
and hope to begin to prepare a highway to that land, and all
along that way to have a local work for China. Tlie way to
Thibet, we believe, is two-fold : first, by way of Northern
India, as we pointed out in our letter from Darjeeling ; and,
secondly, through China, as recent events, which we shall
immediately refer to, have perhaps shown.

With a view to the opening up of work iu tlu^ West and
the Northwest, and also of preparing a Une of communica-
tion to the Western frontier, we have arranged for a station
in Wuchang where the opportunity of securing a Home waa
offered. Two of our brethren v/ill immediately occupy this
great centre, and hold it for future developments. It is the
natural centre of Interior China, and a grand strategic point,
either for a movement westward along the Yangtse, toward.
Shansi, Ichang or Sz-chuen ; or northwestward up the Han,
toward Shensi and Kansuh, the great unoccupied provinces
of the Northwest, and the hne of approach to Thibet ; or to
the great province of Hunan in the South— the Gibraltar of
China, and the one province in which no foreigner has yet
been permitted to reside

Our sisters in China will remain at Wuhu for the pres-
ent, and engage in work for women. As soon as a country
station shall have been opened, two of the young ladies have
bravely decided to remove to it, and begin real evangelistic
work. It is a little premature for many single ladies to go to
China, until the way is somewhat prepared by men.

"isr^

402 LARCr.R OUTLOOKS ON MISSIOaWARY I. ANPS.

At the nsk of seeming uncomplimentary, wo nniHt say-
that we question whether many of our Atnerican young
ladies are as well fitted for real pioneer work in new fields as
their Enghsh sisters of the China Inland Mission, It involves
very great privation and requires espc cial courage and train-
ing to engage in tliis work, and the average Americriu
woman is not equal to it, and will shrink from it when 8h(>

gets to China.

There are two kinds of work for lady missionaries in
China,— one, in the treaty ports, where they can wear the
European costume and live in European houses or good native
ones, and have most of the comforts of life that they have
heen accustomed to at home,— the other, in the interior,
where they will he expected to wear the native dress, to
travel native style, to sometimes eat native food, to face
curious, impertinent and often rude crowds of men and boyc,
and to live in houses where many of the odors are disagree-
able, and such a thing as a fire in your room is unknown and

impossible.

We must say, from real investigation, that many of the
ladies of the China Inland Mission do all these things, and
undergo all these privations without complaint, and are con-
sidered by those most f amiUar with the work of that Society,
to be often the most successful and efficient pioneers in even
the newest and hardest fields.

All honor to these brave, self-denying women. We know
they have been criticised, we know the wisdom of their
course has been questioned by many, we know the com-

wa ^ ifefe-. ' ■'

I RV LANDS.

ary, we must Bay
American young
rk in now fielda as
ission. It involves
courage and train-
average Americnu
from it when 8h<'

dy missionaries in
they can wear the
ouses or good native
hfe that they havo
jr, in the interior,
he native dress, to
ative food, to face
Is of men and boyc,
odors are disagree-
)m is unknown and

I, that many of the
ill these things, and
plaint, and are con-
ork of that Society,
nt pioneers in even

women. We know
e wisdom of their
kve know the com-

DOn'N THE YANGTSE.

403

plaints of a few are often unjustly charged upon the many,
hut after all we have heard and seen, we are satisfied that
many of them are doing this sort of work and doing it well.
But, at the same time, wo believe that no woman should at-
temi)t it without fully understanding it, accepting all its con-
ditions, and being specially j)repared for it and called to it.

And we are bound to say that comparatively few of our
American girls will be found equal to it, and none without a
very real struggle and a very direct sense of the Master's call.
The single item of winter fires will bring a test at the be-
ginning. Many American girls are accustomed to a warm
room heated to 00 or 70 degrees. The English girl is used to
a cold room, and simply pads her Chinese dress a little thick-
er and never minds. Then she is inured to long walks of
miles, and can stand any amount of physical hardship to
which her western sister has nevor been trained.

These are, simply, facts that we have to look at either
after we go to the field or before. At present our work in
China is pioneer work. We are not far enough in to have
many places prepared, so that our ladies can follow up the
work of men. Our workers must go, like the men of
Ephraim, into the thick wood and cut down for themselves.
And, therefore, until we have opened up a number of new-
stations and cleared the way for easier work by women for
women, the great need of our work in China is men,— young
men, unmarried men— men that love bold, aggressive
work— men that expect to remain single, at least until
they have cut their way through the earlier difficulties

404 LAh'(.''f,* nf'TLOOK'S OX MfSSIOX.tny I.AXPS.

f their field, and after, i)eihaiw, a fiw years' campaign
have won their Jerichos and Hchrous, and Bucceeded in
opening; u s. Uion on virgin soil ; not by "IniildinK on an-
other man's fonndation," hut hy reaching out into "the
regions heyond " and conijuering a kingdom all their own.
These are the men wo want in China to-day. May God give
us a hand of them !

And if there are any women, who, counting the cost, will
dare to compete with them, and claim the honors ;uid prizes
of such ])ioneer work, wo will not dare to forbid nor discour-
age them. But we will frankly say that mdess they are pre-
pared gladly and without (piestion to adopt the native dress,
to forego many things that they have considered almost ne-
cessities, and to press out into i)ioneor work as soon as they
have acquired the language, they had better wait, or ask the
Lord to lead them to India or some other field where the dif-
ficulties in a woman's way are less formidable.

There is another course, viz., to go out under one of the
other Societies that are working in China, in older cities and
centres, and have openings for woman's work, free from the
disabilities and disagreeabilities which we have described.
This is one of the temptations that will meet our girls on
arriving in China. They will find many lady missionaries
working for the heathen amid circumstances of comfort and
social refinement, and they will wonder why they should be
expected to fare differently.

They may forget that there places of servif nxQ in old
Missions that have been long opened bj the self-sacrifice and

• I./IXPS.

years' campaign
!i(l fiucceedod in
building on an-
; out into "the
I uU tlu'ir own.
May God give

ing tho cost, will
onoi-s and prizes
[bid nor discour-
es9 they are pre-
the native dress,
dered almost ne-
as soon as they
wait, or ask the
d where the dif-
le.

mder one of the
I older ciuies and
rk, free from the
have described,
noet our girls on
lady missionaries
s of comfort and
y they should be

lervii-o nre in old
self-sacrifice and

DOWN THE VANCrSE.

4^\S

toil of oth 'S, Our work is not to go in and it up the fruit of
their toil in the easy i)lacos. Our calling, as a S(»ciety, is to
go to "the ri'gioi s beyond," "wIum' Christ bus m»t been
named." And, unless we are prepared to face the risks of
tbis kind of work, we are not W(»rthy of our trust. There-
fore, we ai«4 calling for brave men who are willing to give
themselves to this sort of work ; and, therefore, wo feel we
should not impose it ui)<)n our sisterw, save in those excep-
tional cases where a Deborah nrises to i^ut a Barak to shaine,
and show that the weakness of (iod and of woman is stnug-

«r than men.

Sucha voman has just passed through China, and also
America, on lier way to England. \^ o were two or three
days behind her, and failed to meet h'>r personally, but we
have heard her story from others who 1 ave had long inter-
views with her. We had heard of her i lonths ago, at Dar-
jeeling, and her friends then were expe( ting her to appear
on the frontier of Thibet at the time w. were there. We
refer to Miss Taylor, who has just emerged from Thibet aft.'r
spending ten months in that long closed land. For many
years this brave little Englishwoman has lad Thibet upon
lier heart, as a great burden of faith and prayer, and she has
felt that it never would be occui)ied until su-ae one had faith
enough to " put the soles of their feet " upoi it and actually
claim it in the name of Jesus. This she sas successfully

done. , ni •

Nearly a year ago. Miss Taylor passed th )Ugh Chma to

4o6 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

the Western border of Kansuh, one of the Northwestern prov-
inces, and took her station on the border to watch her chance
to get over into Thibet. Two or three times she was baffled
by the vigilance of the authorities, but, hke a woman, she
stuck to her purpose, aad, at last, one day, when the guards
were sleeping, she slipped in. She was accon^panied by a
Thibetan and a Chinese servant. She travels with these men
as a female merchant, wearing the Thibetan costume. She
found no difficulty from the Thibetans, whom she describes
as very friendly, especially to the Enghsh. The only enemies
she had to fear were the jealous Chinese officials, and, to a
certain extent, the lamas or priests. Her purpose was to
reach Lhassa, the capital, and pass through it into India at
Darjeeling. This she thinks she might have done if she had
not been betrayed by her Chinese servant, who, perhaps from
fear of punishment in case she was detected, gave notice to
the authorities of her character and plans, and a company of
soldiers was sent to escort her back to China. But she had
already succeeded in spending nearly a year in the country,
and preaching the Gospel in many of its towns and villages.
She believes that Thibet is open, and has just returned to
England to raise a company of volunteer missionaries to go
at once to Darjeeling, and prepare to enter from the side of
India, which she agrees, with our formerly expressed opmion,
in regarding it as the most hopeful side We trust our Thib-
etan volunteers in America are getting ready, and that God
will «oon give us also-as well as this brave woman-the de-
sire of our heart.

^.-J

'Y LANDS.

)rth western prov-
,vatch her chance
s she was baffled
ke a woman, she
when the guards
ccon^panied by a
Is with these men
m costume. She
tiom she describes
The only enemies
officials, and, to a
r purpose was to
;h it into India at
VQ done if she had
vho, perhaps from
:ed, gave notice to
and a company of
ina. But she had
ar in the country,
owns and villages.
s just returned to
missionaries to go
er from the side of
expressed opinion,
Nq trust our Thib-
tady, and that God
TQ woman — the de-

DOWN THE YANGTSE.

407

Our two dear brothers, Messrs. Christie and Simpson,
who came to China to prepare for entering Thibet, went down
to Shanghai, and had a long interview with Miss Taylor. She
encouraged them in their purpose to persevere in seeking to
enter from China, while others, at the same time, are enter-
ing from India. She strongly advised them to go to Peking
and study Thibetan there, where numbers of Thibetans reside.
We have encouraged them in this plan, and they will imme-
diately remove to the capital, and with their fine knowledge
of Chinese, will be able to do much good work, and, we trust,
estabhsh a permanent station while spen(Mng the necessary
time-about a year-in acquiring the Thibetan language.
And so God has, in a most gracious and providential man-
ner, fitted this also into our journey, and enabled us, in His
light, to see light more and more clearly respecting His will
for this great, closed land of Thibet, whose opening gates
touch so clearly the portals of His coming. Praise the Lord !
Wo trust to find, when we reach home, that God has
been speaking to some other brave and believing men about
entering Thibet, both from the India and China side. We
would be glad to have a score of the right kind of mission-
aries, some for the India and some for the China baud.

We have dwelt thus Trlly upon the plans and arrange-
ments of our missionary work in China, that our dear people,
who are our partners in all this work, may understand the
situation fully, and be able to co-operate with intelhgence
and profound interest,

God is giving as five fields in this great land, viz. : first,

4o8 LARGER OrTLOOR-S OX Jtr/SS/OXARy LANDS.

the great unoccupied province of Quangsi in the south;
second, the large province of Ghanwhei, in the centre ; third,
Wuchang as the point oi approach for tho west and the north-
west ; fourth, Peking in the northeast, where oar sisters are
laborii g ; and fifth, Shansi in the extreme north, where the
Swedes are settling. And now, in connection with oui- Thib-
etan work, we hope that the friends from Wuchr.ng and the
friends from Shansi will yet meet, by converging li cs, away
in distant Kansuh, and open two great highways, both from
tlie west and the north, to the borders of Thibet ; liighwaya
which w^e trust will yet be lined with Mission stations for the
great cities of interior China all along the way. This is the
vision. May the Lord Himself fulfill it, and hasten it in His

time !

We took some walks into the coimtry around Wuhu.
One of the first was to the little cemetery where William
Knapp and Susie Beals lie sleeping, as pledges of China to
Christ. It is a neat little enclosure, and we ordered two mod-
est stones to be reared for those honored and loved ones.

The whole country is one immense rice field. It is.extra-
ordinary how much these Chinese get out of thtir land. They
raise three crops a year off all their fields, and keep the soil
literally saturated with manure. The cultivation of rice is
very interesting. First, they flood the land, and while it is a
great morass of mud and mire, they turn in their buffaloes
and plows and harrows, and just mix it up into a perfect
quagmire. Then the women wade in and plant the rice
stalks, about six inches long, which had previously been

'^ w i ijiJM!

-WfB

)' LANDS.

i in the south ;
ho centre ; third,
>st and the north-
e oar sisters are
north, where the
m with our Thib-
i^'uchcng and the
•ging h' GS, away
ways, both from
hibct ; highways
n stations for the
/^ay. This is the
I hasten it in His

Y around Wuhu.
J where William
dges of China to
ordered two mod-
d loved ones,
fteld. It is.extra-
thtir land. They
md keep the soil
ivation of rice is
, and while it is a
in their buffaloes
up into a perfect
lid plant the rice
I previously been

DOWN THE VANGTSE.

409

fi^.:tr-':.

raised in a little nursery, and set them in rows in the mud,
about six inches ai)art ; and so it grows until it ripens as the
water gradually dn^s. A growing rice field has the most ex-
quisite light green tint imaginable, and when the country is
covered with these fields it is very pretty. As soon as the
rice is harvested, they plant some other grain. Most of the
rice fields we saw
had been planted
just after the har-
vesting of their
wheat and l)arley.

We saw one
very novel sight.
It was a battle with
an army of locusts.
These pests are very
numerous, and were
as yet only half
grown. As we
walked through the
fields we trod upon
billions of them, as

they literally strewed the ground and hopped about in clouds.
They were about the size of small grasshoppers. The
people were getting alarmed about them, and, one day, we
saw a little army of men and boys stretched out in a long
row, just like a regiment, and with long switches beating the
ground before them, and moving forward in a solid line and

CHINESE MODE OF iRRIQATINQ.

''I
5 si

4IO

LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

driving the locusts in myriads in front of them. A httle
distance in front they had dug a trench, and lighted a fire
at the bottom of it, and into this trench the locusts were
being driven where they would, of course, be burned to death.
But it would take a great many trenches and great many-
Chinamen to exterminate all the locusts we saw that day.
Poor people, we pray God they may be saved from a locust
famine this summer.

We took a Chinese passage from Wuhu to Nanking, and
some of our dear missionaries accompanied us. The accom-
modation for Chinese passengers is very good and the fares
low.

We spent two very pleasant days in Nanking. It is the
old Imperial Capital, and is great, even in its ruins. Its im-
mense walls enclose a space more than thirty miles around,
and two-thirds of this vast space is occupied by market gar-
dens and graves. The present native city is not one-fourth
its former size, although it is still a city of three hundred
thousand inhabitants. Just beyond the city are the Tombs
of the old Ming Dynasty, approached by an avenue of colos-
sal elephants, carved out of single blocks of stone. Outside
the gates also stood the beautiful porcelain pagodas, which
were the wonder of Chinese architecture, but of which there
remains scarcely a crumbling fragment.

The city was, for thirteen years, the capital of the Tai-
ping Ilebellion, and at the fall of that great movement, as well
as at its inception, the destruction of human life was enor-
mous.

'•niii)»!ifc*;<i. '

V LANDS.

them. A little
ad lighted a fire
,he locnsta were
burned to death,
and great many
e saw that day.
ed from a locust

to Nanking, and
us. The accom-
)d and the fares

oking. It is the
s ruins. Its im-
I'ty miles around,
I by market gar-
s not one-fourth
)f three hundred
y are the Tombs
avenue of colos-

I stone. Outside

II pagodas, which
it of which there

ipital of the Tai-
iiovement, as well
lan life was enor-

/JOryV THE VANGTSE.

One of the most extraordinary movements of human
history, that strange episode of Chinese history, over and
over again, comes back to one in China witli profound inter-
est and wonder.

It was almost contemporaneous with our own American

THE MINQ TOMBS.

rebelUon. It originated with a Christian inquirer in Southern
China. This man was well known to the early missionaries,
and at one time asked baptism at their hands. This was de-
ferred, as it was Mt that he needed instruction. He had a
fau- knowledge of Christianity, and incorporated its leading

HIT

412 LARGER OVTI.OOk'S ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

doctrine as the basis of liis system, although ho doubtless
included, along with mu/h crude Christian truth, a great
mass of fanatical notions :.nd i)orsonal revelations. Feeling
the injustice of the op)08ition an<"' persecution offered to
Christianity, and also to himself, h(> resorted to force in
self-defence, and gradually gathering around him a band of
enthusiasts like himself, ho boldly took up arms in defence
of his claims, i^s his cause increased in strength, his fanati-
cal claims grew more and more exalted, until, at length, he
proclaimed himself the "Son of Heaven," and demanded im-
plicit subjection to his authority as the official representative
of God.' All who did not accept him and the new faith were
put to the sword. Like a second Mohammed, he swept over
Southern and Central China, and left behind him, everywhere,
a track of blood and a holocaust of graves. He had a sort of
Christian creed, and his armies marched to battle singing the
Christian Doxology. His alternative was the Creed or the
Sword. All who did not accent the Trmity, the Saviour and
the Son of Heavon wore put to death. It was the strangest
caricature of tho Glospel jh;Vu iV^e world ever saw.

Ho alwayc professed ic be the frien<'' of the missionaries,
and, again and again, beggod them to join him. One of thorn
told us that when his army was encamped outside of Shang-
liai, and his soldiers surrounded the mission property, and
had free access to their deserted premises for weeks, not a
thing was injured ; and on their return, after his troops re-
tired, not even the smallest thing was missing. This extra-
ordinary movement swept over all Southern and Central

he doubtless
truth, a great
ions. Feeling
'on offered to
ed to force in
liim a band of
'nis in defence
;th, his fanati-
I, at length, he
demanded ini-
representative
lew faith were
he swept over
n, everywhere,
[e had a sort of
X\e singing the
le Creed or the
he Saviour and
s the strangest
w.

e missionaries,
>. One of them
tside of Shang-

property, and
r weeks, not a
r his troops re-
g. This extra-
a and Central

DOir.V THE YANCTSi:.

4T3

China, carrying everything before it, and at length estab-
lishiKl itself at Nanking, the old capital of a former dynasty.
The imperial power was helpless before it, and to-day China
would have been under its rule and have become a sort of
mongrel Christian emi)ire, hud it not been for the great pow-
ers of Europe which combined to suppress it, and especially
for Chinese Gordon, who at last was the instrument by whom
its power was broken and its capital was taken. Nanking
bears the most tragic marks of the awful drama. It seems
very strange, after thirty years, that half an empire should so
quickly have recovered the doctrines of a Christianity which
to-day it so detests. No doubt much of its success was duo
to force. But that strange spectacle of the native accepting
Christianity at the bidding of fanaticism is, at least, a figure
and a foreglimpse of the day when China shall accept the
Gospel at tnc invitation of the Meek and Ijowly One, the true
Son of Heaven, whose only weapon is the Bible, and whose
sole compulsion is the sweet constraint of love.

Some have almost wished that the powers of Europe had
not interfered, and that the Taipings had been allowed ta
succeed.

No, — God is wiser than men. A counterfeit Christianity
would be worse than a blind and cruel Paganism. Christ can
never accept a homage won by blood and tears, or a triumph
gained by any other power than His own grace and love.
The curse of Mohammedanism to-day is that it has incorpor-
ated enough Christianity with its abominable fanaticism, ta
seal the hearts of its votaries effectually against the Gospel.

414

LARGER or/ LOOKS OX M/SS/ON/I RY LANDS.

Thank God, China has escaped the curse of a second Islam,
and is still open to a pure Christianity.

There is very much interesting and attractive Christian
work in Nanking. It was opened many years ago by one of
tho old veterans of the China Inland Mission, Mr. Duncan,
who long lived and l:i')ored at tho most famous of its gates,
tho Drum Towor. But this Mission has moved onto less-
occupied fields, and the mission work of Nanking is all of a
somewhat conservative type. We do not mean by this that
it is not earnest, aggressive and thoroughly alive, for we have
not met more congenial spirits and rr.oro earnest workers
anywhere, but that it is of that type usually found in fields
that have for some time been occupied, and where the work
is carried on chiefly by the older societies and methods.

Wo met with all the missionaries, visited several of their
schools, hospitals and homes, and saw some of the native
congregations. We listened vith delight to a rousing Chinese
sermon by our dear brother, Mi. Ferguson, and felt it, if we
did not understand it, and we could not fail to see the re-
sponse on the faces of his hearers. We had the pleasure of
preaching a little to them through ai\ interpreter, and we
were permitted to address the missionaries on Sabbath even-
ing, and to feel the deep response of their earnest hearts to
our simple message about the supreme need we had of God
Himself in all our life and work for Him.

The Northern Presbyterians have an excellent work here,
with a fine chapel and native congregation and several out
stations. The Northern Methodists have also a beautiful

kU.

y LANDS.
a second Islam,

•active Christian
.rs ago by one of
on, Mr. Duncan,
lous of its gates,
lovod on to less-
nking is all of a
lean by this that
live, for we have
earnest workers
[y found in fields

where the work
d methods.
\ several of their
ne of the native

rousing Chinese
and felt it, if we
ail to see the re-
d the pleasure of
erpreter, and we
)n Sabbath even-
sarnest hearts to
d we had of God

ellent work here,
and several out
also a beautiful

nOirJV 77/A" VAXGTSE.

415

work, and our kind host and friend, Mr. FtTguson, showed
us through their handsome now buildings, one of them the
noble gift of our dear friend, Mr. Blackstone, and told us
how his splendid school of more than sixty bright boys had
all grown up in four short years. This Mission was once
under the superintendence of Mr. Hart, at one time a si^cre-
tary of our Alliance Mission. His pla(;e is now filled by
Rev. Mr. Stevens, who has only been two or three years in
China, and his success shows how a consecrated and judi-
cious man, with a j)ractical training and experience at home,
may be transplanted to the foreign field at once, and be
greatly used of God in the administration of the work there,
even in the absence of a long experience in the field. More
and more we have learned, as wo have looked out upon the
mission work of many fields, that a good superintendent i^
worth a score of workers, and is indispensable in any aggres-
sive work. The Methodists have also a fine hospital under
the care of Dr. Beebe and others.

The Disciples have also a good work in Nanking, and
our dear sister, Ella Saw, formerly Ella Funk, who has joined
them, was there with her good husband to welcome us, and
we found she made a very good little Disciple. She was
happy in her home and her work, and had the same bright
girl-face as of yore. God bless her, and make her a blessing
to these dear brethren and to China I

The Friends of America have also a Mission in Nanking
under the care of Miss Butler — now in America. We felt at
home as we saw the familiar face of our beloved brother.

III

P^BBBS'w«"t«»*''"=' •

4l6 I.ARCF.R OVTI.OOKS ON MISSION Aft Y I. IXPS.

Asahol Hussey on tlio aviiU, and wore delighti'd to llnd that
the beautiful building was bis noblo gift to the Mission. Our
dear Bister, Miss Murray, was visiting ibis bomo at the tinio
of our corning to Nanking, and bdping, temporarily, to till
tbo place of Miss Butler. Wo visited ber large class of native
women, and beard tbem repeat, witb astonisbing readiness,
most of tbo fourteentb cbapter of Jobn in Cbinese. Tbeso
Chinese bave astonisbing memories. Tbeir Bcbolara know-
most of tbeir classical books by beart, and are astonisbed
wben tbo missionaries cannot repeat tbo wbole Bible without

the book.

Altogether we bad a very pleasant visit at old Nanking,
and were well repaid for our tramp of four or five mile»
through the mud the next morning to reach our steamer for
• Shanghai. The chief fault of Nanking is that it takes so long
to get to it from the steamboat landing, and at this season,
especially, there is almost constant slush and rain.

On our way down we stopped at Chin-Kiang, the most
beautiful city on all the river. Our stay was long enough to
call on a dozen of the China Inland Missionaries at their
Bweet Christian Home under the oversight of Dr. Cox, and
also to meet some dear Southern Presbyterian brethren on
their way to the interior. We could not help taking a long-
ing look up the Grand Canal toward the distant home of our
dear former student, Fannie Smith, now Mrs. Dr. Woods,
but our time would not allow the long journey that it would
take to reach her. But we were comforted at hearing from
many old friends of her bright and blessed life in China, the

/ txns.

ted to find that
lO Mission. Our
imo at tho time
iiporarily, to ftU
50 class of native
shing readiness,
Chinese. Those
V (scholars know
are astonished
lie Bihlo without

at old Nanking,
ur or five miles
, our steamer for
it it takes so long
I at this season,
1 rain.

Kiang, the most
3 long enough to
ionaries at their
of Dr. Cox, and
rian brethren on
lip taking a long-
tant home of our
kirs. Dr. Woods,
ley that it would
. at hearing from
[ife in China, the

'?S«i

DOH'.V THE y.iyCTSE.

417

land, indeed, of her birth. Neither could ve tarry to visit
the Ladies' Home of the C. I. M.. at Vangchow, as wo had
hoped, but we received a kind letter, on our way down, from
the lady in charge, and met at Chin-Kiang some of the dear
girls with whom we had crossed the Mediterranean, five
months ago. We have heard nuxrh of this hallowed place,
and believe that to its influence is largely due, imder God,
the wonderful vv ork which the ladies of this Mission are able
to accomplish in the difficult fields of the interior.

We took on board at Chin-Kiang some dear Norwegian
brethren who came on with us to Shanghai, and with whorii
we had Christian fellowship in the things of Christ and His
work. Mr. Stevens, of Nanking, was also on board, and we
had a short and pleasant sail under the care of the most ac-
complished and agreeable Christian captain that we have
met for many a day. And so, once more, we reached
Shanghai, and were soon in the hands of hosts of friends and
settled again in our little chamber in the blessed Home at
Woosung Road, hurrying through our letters for the nett
mail, and preparing for our next journey to the far North.
We had been just three weeks up and down the Yangtse,
and had got, at least, a glimpse of the great heai-t of China.

XXIII.

TO THE NORTHERN CAPITAL.

OUK northern journey was delayed and almost pre-
vented by an nnexpected detention in Shanghai
through tlie serious illness and derangement of one
of our Swedish brethren. We were glad to be there at this
critical time, and that the responsibility was not left to fall
wholly upon others, who had, perhaps, no right, save that of
common discipleship and humanity, to bear it.

The climate of Northern China is exceedingly trying to
persons subject to nervous and brain diseases, and much care
should be exercised in the selection of missionaries for this
field.

' At length, after a delay of four days, we wore again at
Be». in one of the many steamships that run between Shang-
hai and Tientsin. We were on the Yellow Sea ; and, for at
least a certain part of its course, it was worthy of its name.
The outpouring of the Yangtse and the Yellow rivers have
given its waters the tint of yellow mud, at least near the
estuaries of these streams. It was moderately favorable
weather, although bitter cold. We had some very congenial
Scotch friends on board, missionaries of the China Inland
Mission on their way to Chefoo, with their little children.

One of the brethren was going to take charge of the excel-

418

JIWHBiJ.es

r^-mm-

TO THE NORTHERN CAPITAL.

419

*AL.

md almost pre-
)n in Shanghai
mgement of one
) be there at this
IS not left to fall
ight, save that of
it.

jdingly trying to
s, and much care
isionaries for this

Bve wore again at
\ between Shang-
Sea ; and, for at
'thy of its name,
illow rivers have
at least near the
erately favorable
ne very congenial
;he China Inland
ir little children,
irge of the excel-

lent Boys' School at Chefoo, and the other, with his family,
to take a season of rest at the China Inland Mission Sani-
tarium there. We had a quiet Sabbath service together, and
nmch i)recious Christian fellowship.

Two days' sail brought us to the bold promontory of
Shantung, and on Monday morning early we anchored in
the harbor of Chefoo, and saw the pretty hills rising on every
side of the lovely harbor, with many foreign buildings and
missionary compounds and premises crowning their slopes.
Away to the right we could see Temple Hill, the headquar-
ters of the American Presbyterian Mission of North China,
where Dr. and Mrs. Nevins has just invited us to visit them
and their work, and whence Dr. Corbett had just returned
to America to tell of the great blessing which God had been
pouring out upon that most successful and substantial work.
To the left was the hospital of the China Inland Mission,
under the care of Dr. Eandall, formerly so well known to our
people in New York. Just behind the bold hill, on the shore,
were the Schools and Sanitoi-ium of the China Inland Mission.
Their school boat, manned by a band of noble-looking boys
from the school, was already coming oui to meet us, and soon
our feet had touched the beautiful sandy beach and entered

their hospitable doors.

We had only time, while our steamer tarried, to sit down
with a blessed company of missionaries to breakfast, and then
to spend all the time we could with our two precious AlUance
lambs,-Mabel and Bertha Cassidy, who are here at school.
It was a mutual joy to meet them, and to find them happy,

^^^m^^^^f^m

i^s^mmmm

420

LARCFR OUTLOOKS ON MrsSfOyARY LANDS.

contented and making excellent progress in their studies^
while their record for good conduct was simply perfect.
Mabel was as wise as a little mother, and Bertha was so like
her own mother as to make the resemblance in her sweet
little face almost anmsiug. Their dear mother is to spend
her vacation with them here, and it will be a well-earned joy
to all of them. This admirable school is a great privilege
and advantage, not only to the families of the China Inland
Mission, but to the children of all the missionaries in China.
There are two distinct sections for girls and boys, and both
are admirably conducted and highly appreciated by the whole
missionaiy comnmnity.

Chefoo is, probably, the healthiest place in China. It is
a great summer resort for all the Europeans in the country.
It is situated on a bold promontory, and open to the breezes
of the ocean. It stands on a considerable elevation, and has
pretty scenery and a beautiful sandy beach, reminding one
of our of^ean resorts at home. Its native name is Yent-ai,
and by this it is known on most of the maps. It is a treaty
port, and famous as the place where one of our most import-
tant treaties with China was signed. Its population is not
large, perhaps 40, 000, and its foreign trade about $12,000,000
yearly.

We were obliged to defer our visit to the Presbyterian
and other Missions at Chefoo until our return trip from the
North, and hurry again on board our steamer for Tientsin.

Another day along the pretty shore of Shantung brought
US to the mouth of the Peiho River. Getting happily over

LANDS.

TO THE XORTHERX CAPITAL.

421

I their studies^
simply perfect,
tha was so like
le in her sweet
her is to spend
well-earned joy

great privilege
le China Inland
laries in China.

hoys, and both
;ed by the whole

the bar without delay, we had a seven hours' sail up the
marrow and crooked river to the great Northern Port of
Tientsin. There is a railway, the first in China, running be-
tween Taku, at the mouth of the river, and Tientsin. But the
■oc(!rn steamers go up to the city, about sixty miles distant.
The water is shallow, the channel is narrow, and the difficul-
ties of navigation are very considerable. On our way down
we ran ashore, and had to wait nearly half a day for the tide

in China. It is
in the country,
to the breezes
jvation, and has
, reminding one
lame is Yent-ai,
It is a treaty
ur most import-
opulation is not
bout 11 2,000, 000

he Presbyterian
rn trip from the
r for Tientsin,
lantung brought
ng happily over

THE TAKU FORTS.

to rise and hft us off. Sometimes the ships have to wait
much longer. But the Chinese will do little to remedy these
«vils. It was a great thing for them to suffer this much of a
railway to be built at all, but very much of the trade still
comes by the old and crooked river, and the difficulties in
getting from the train to the steamer at Taku are so great
that most of the passenger traffic comes through direct by
steamer. Chinese railways are yet in a very immature in-

422 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON AflSSIONARV LANDS.

ON THE PEIHO RIVER.

fancy. There is one other being constructed on the Yangtsd
by the Viceroy of Wuchang, to carry iron from a great
mine, for the purpose of constructing railway ties ; and some
day it is expected that a line will connect Peking with Han-
kow.

JO THE SORTHKKN ClI'I/.U..

423

Notwitlistamling the many things that strike a foreigner
as very far behind our Western Civilization, yet it must be
recognized that this part of China has made gigantic- progress
in a single generation. There is ahnost a daily line of ocean
steamships between Shanghai and Tientsin, and many of
them are owned by native Chinese merchants. There is one
man in China who has given a greater impulse to Chinese
progress than all others. That man is Li-Hung-Chang, the
Vicei-oy of the Province of Chih-li, and the most inHuential
statesman and business man in China. He is a very rich man,
and owns large interests in all the ships and trading (!om-
panies on the coast. He is the conti.lential adviser of the
Emperor, and intimate with all the leading foreigners ia

China.

Li-Huug-Chang seems to be an enigma, like everythmg
Chinese, and we have heard very opposite opinions about
him and his attitude toward foreigners and Christianity ; but
from all we have heard, we have no doubt that lie is an as-
tute and most gifted Chinaman, who fully appreciates the
value of foreign ideas and improvements, and desires to make
all out of the foreigner he can for himself and his country,
and at the same time give him as little power as he can help.
By some who know him personally and intimately, we have
been assured that he is not specially unfriendly to Chris-
tianity, as he has been represented to be, and that Lady Li, so
intimately Unked with the life and work of Dr. Mackenzie
and Dr. Howard, in Tientsin, was undoubtedly at heart a sin-
cere inquirer, and, it is believed by tlose who know her best,
a disciple of Jesus Christ.

■ 31

i s

424

r.ARCF.R nr'Tf.ook's ox .v/.ssmx.tR}' /..ixp.'j.

1 1

P.ut wliile we liave been digressing and discnssing, we
have got almost I'p the Peiho, to our destination. Yonder
are the high, smoking (chimneys of Tientsin. Before we get
there, let lis look about us, a moment, at the country through
which we are passing. We are ascending a narrow serjten-
tine stream, not more tliaii one or two hiuidred yards wide,
and continually doubling on itself. Now it is north, now
east, now south, and again due west, in its sinuous course.
The country through which we are ])assing, is wholly differ-
ent from anything we have yet seen. It is a purely farming
district, strongly resembling a western prairie, when all the
crops are gre?n. Oi-eans of verdure swee]) away to the hori-
zon, millions of acres of wheat, barley, millet, Indian corn,
beans, sweet potatoes, interspersed with peach trees in great
profusion, and other foliage. It is really a pretty sight, and
makes one think of home. The climate is very similar to
that of one of our northern states, only a little hotter in sum-
mer, aiad a little colder in winter.

There aie thousands of villages all along the river bank,
all neatly built of mud or brick, and usually roofed with tile.
The people literally swarm, and they all have a fairly com-
fortable look. The country peojjle of Shantung and Cbih-li,
are usually a thrifty, industrious class of farmers, not un-
Avortbv of comparison Avith the peasanty of many European
countries.

But here we are at Tienisiu, and again we recognize the
foreign Bund, with the handsome European buildings, and
its long front of business offices and warehouses. Probably

/..I. YDS.

(liscnissing, we
ition. Yonder

Before we get
)untry through
narrow Herjien-
red yards wide,

is north, now
f<inuou8 course.
3 wholly differ-
purely farming
i, when all the
.^ay to the hori-
>t, Indian corn,
h trees in great
•etty sight, and
very similar to

hotter in sum-

the river hank,
oofed with tile.
re a fairly com-
ng and Chih-li,
irmers, not un-
iiany European

e recognize the

buildings, and

ises. Piobably

CHINESE SLIPPER BOAT

Reproduction from b Chiiiest I'iiiiiliiiK

TO nil: .Si>Niiii:K.\ i .irrr.u..

425

it ranks tliitd aftHi- Haiikou and Hhangliai as a Treaty Port
and (toinnu'rcial contn!. . Its fonMgn trade, as estimated by
tlie Customs' returns, amounts to ^:17,(>oo,0(K), and tlie vast
native (ntv lias a population of 5oo,(mmi. It is the homo of
Li-Hung-Chang, and wo passed his palace, which is simply

TIENTSIN.

a large collection of low, plain-looking buildings, enclosed
behind a high wall. He is said to live in great simplicity,
and requires his sons to do the same, while he has several
luxurious apartments furnished in foreign style for his nu-
merous visitors.

4^6 l.ARCER OI'TLOOk'S OX MfSSrONARV L.IXDS.

We wore met by Mr. Clark, of the China Inland MiHHion,
and very hospitably entertained. Wo shall lf>ng retain the
roost delightful reiiollectiona of TientHin and its blessed mis-
sionaries. We had a two-fold opixtrtunity of meeting them,
both on our way to and from Peking.

Ou these occasions we had two delightful publitt meet-
ings with them, and several opportunities of seeing them
I)er8onally, and we found much reason to tliank God for their
spirit and their work. This is the business centre (»f the
China Inland Mission for Northern China, and will have to
be ours also if we are to carry on much work in the Northern
Provinces. Tientsin in the North, and Wuchang or Han-
kow in the West, are the natural headquarters and jjoints of
departure for the great northwest, the most unoccupie<l sec-
tion of China, and our ])rospective mission fields.

For the present, \mtil we can send a proper business
agent, Mr. A. J. Bostwick, of the American Board, is kindly
representing our work, and acting as a channel of cotnmuni-
cation with our Swedish friends in Shansi, forwaiding mails
and money, and puichasing and foi-warding supplies. He
has been very kind and helpful, and his valuable busin«!S8
experience and counsel are fully appreciated.

Mr. Clark is an all-round man of atfairs, who has been
over much of China, and is the able business manager of
tbo China Inland Mission in Tientsin. He has a big heart,
and ready hand, and has been of invaluable service to our
Swedish friends on their journey north.

Among the Missionary Societies represented in Tientsin,

■--mmmmir -, »!iiBBi!i"

y /..1.VDS.

1 Inland MiHwon,

long rotitin the

\ its blessed inis-

f nu'eting them,

,ful public; nieet-
(»f seeing them
ink God for their
SH centre of the
and will have to
c in the Northern
'uchang oi- Han-
ters ard jtoints of
i unoicnj)ied sec-
fields.

L proper business
I Board, is kindly
mel of tunimuni-
forwarding mails
ing sui)plies. He
valuable business
1.

irs, who has been
liness manager of
e has a big lieart,
t)le service to our

ented in Tientsin,

r<y rill-: son rniKX capita i..

427

the work of the Lond«»n So<-iety holds \\ prominent place. It
18, perluum, l)est knowji to the Christian world through the
life and labors of Di'. Matken/if, whose biography has been
go ably written by Mr. Brys(»n of this place, and whose re-
markable and intimate <H)nnection with the Vio«'roy, Li-
Hung-Chang, and Lady Li. formed so important an entering
wedge in the eaily days of Medical Missions in China. It
will be remembered by our readers that in gratitude t.)r tho
healing of his wife, Li-Hung-t hang founded a hospital in
Tientsin, and gave it up to the exclusive charge of Di'. Mac-
kenzie. Indeed, it was always regarded as given to the Mis-
sion. But, on the death of Dr. Mackenzie, a few years ago,
the Viceroy claimed the property, and the Mission had to
give it back, with all the furniture, and a large amount of
money, which Dr. Mackenzie had ace lunulated from the hos-
pital funds for the i>uri)ose of hosi)ital improvement .

It was found that Dr. Mackenzie had never secured
proper papers conveyin- the i)roperty. and the Viceroy sue-
ceeded in oatablishin^ his claim to it, although it was re-
gariied as an act of great injustice and seltishness by many.
It is still carried on as a Chinese Hospital under native phy-
sicians employed In- the Viceroy. The London Society has
built a new hospital, and we were glad to learn that a nmcli
larger number of patients come to it than go to the native
hospital across the street.

Dr. Mfickenzie was a most remarkable man in every way,
and the sweet savor of his life lingers in Tientsin on every
side. He was an extraordinary physician, but a more extra-

■■'-358SWi'i'

428

LARGER OUTLOOKS O.V MLSSLOXARV L.lXns.

ordinary missionary. His medical work was distinc-tly sub-
ordinate to tlie great work which insi)ired his heart, — the
evangehzation of China. We are glad to say that God has
raised up a successor worthy of him. Dr. Koberts, of the
London Mission of Tientsin, and the associate and successor
of Dr. Mackenzie, is one of the most remarkable men we
have met abroad. Surely he had found his predecessor's
mantle, and he has filled his place, even in the estimation of
those who most admired Dr. Mackenzie. Without dispara-
ging any of the many devoted medical missionaries we have
met in China, nor the higher value of the Lord's own heahng,
we cannot help saying that the practical value of such a mis-
sionary is beyond computation. His .gentle, humble spirit,
his fervid piety and unction, his love of souls, his magnetic
enthusiasm for the glorious work of missions, are far more
noticeable than his distinguished ability as a physician, and
he values his profession as an agency for interestin;; the
Chinamen in Christ and the (xospel.

He has a valuable associate in Mrs. King, of the same
Mission, formerly so well known as Dr. Howard, of the M.
E. Mission of America. It was she who attended Lady Li, iu
lier illness, and she was as signally used in that remarkable
providential opening, i>erhaps, as even Dr. Mackenzie. We
were glad to have the opportunity of meeting this dear
worker and spending a little time at her home. She is
now the wife of one of the most prominent missionaries of
the London Society. Mr. King, of Tientsin. We are so glad
that her humble, self-denying piety and devotion are more

)' /..l.\7KS:

,s distinctly sub-
l his lieart,— the
lay that God has
Roberts, of the
ite and successor
larkable men we
liis predecessor's
he estimation of
Without dispara-
iiouaries we have
rd's own healing,
ue of such a mis-
e, humble spirit,
uls, his magnetic
ons, are far jnore
) a physician, and
r intorostin;;^ the

Cing, of the same
oward, of the M.
ended Lady Li, in
1 that remarkable
Mackenzie. We
leeting this dear
er home. She is
lit missionaries of
We are so glad
ievotiou are more

TO THE SORTUh.RX C.lPfT.U..

4291

conspicuous than even her professional success. She has en-
tire charge of what is knowji as Lady Li's Hospital for
Women, and this, we are glad to say, is still the hospital of
the Mission, having been erected happily on Mission ground.
We were glad to be able to ask her many things about the'
distinguished family she had such opportunities of knowing,
and it was a great gratification to hear her say that while
Lady Li had not formally professed Christianity before she
died, yet she expected some day to meet her in heaven.

We had the opportunity of attending a Sabbath morning
service in the London Mission, and saw one of the brightest
and most interesting native congregations we have yet wit-
nessed. We are afraid we looked more at the costumes of
the ladies than we recommend our people to do at home, but
the headdresses of the women were so different from any we
had seen, that we must ho)je to be, at least, leniently judged.
The girls, of course, as elsewhere, all have a braided cue
hanging behind. But the married women have their hair
tied in a knot behind, and then an extraordinary curved fig-
ure, like a great sweeping plume, or more like the tail of a
pheasant, sweeping behind and giving their heads the av>pef tr-
ance of a splendid bird in flight. Brilliant rosettes or flowers,
and a great profusion of jewelry, finished the picture, and
made these women a sight sufficient to turn the head of an
American daughter of fashion. We are afraid the daughters
of Tientsin are not yet up to the apostolic standard on the dress
question, but they say that a Chinese woman would feel as
much disgraced if she went without her jewelry, as she would
without her clothes.

■1!

430

LARGER OUTLOOKS OX MLS'S/ONARV LAXDS.

We had the pleasure of speaking a Uttle to this audience,
through an excellent interpreter, and with a good interpreter
we found that, by using a simple line of thought, and some
striking incident or illustration, we could always be fairly
understood, and meet bright, responsive faces and hearts.

Among the other missionary societies represented in
Tientsin are the American Board, the M. E. Church of
America, and the New Connexion Methodist Church of Eng-
land. We visited them all and were received with the great-
est courtesy, and learned of nmch encouraging work in their
midst. Indeed, the work in North China is in a more hope-
ful condition than in any other section. Our space will not
permit us to speak particularly of all. We were invited to
meet with the missionaries of the various societies, and ex-
plain the principles and methods of our work. There has
been naturally much misunderstanding about our Alliance,
and especially in connection with the large parties of Swedes
that have recently passed through Tientsin on their way
northward. W^e were glad to have the opportunity of ex-
])Ounding our principles and methods, and receiving the cor-
dial assurance of their sympathy and co-operation. Rarely
have we felt more unity of spirit or received greater kindness.
When they found that we were to leave the following
day for Peking, and had not yet secured a Chinese interpreter
for the long overland journey which would be so difficult for
one who could not speak a word of Chinese, two of the mis-
sionaries at once offered to leave their work and come with
us, and our business man offered to send his office boy. We

!Ry LANDS.

i to this audience,
a good interpreter
bought, and some
always be fairly
:es and hearts.
es represented in
M. E. Church of
st Church of Eng-
ed with the great-
ging w^ork in their
is in a more hope-
Our space will not
rVe were invited to
} societies, and ex-
work. There has
ibout our Alliance,
3 parties of Swedes
tsin on their way
opportunity of ex-
i receiving the cor-
operation. Rarely
(d greater kindness,
eave the following
Chinese interpreter
d be so difficult for
3e, two of the rais-
)rk and come with
his office boy. We

ro THE NORTHERN CAPITAL.

431

accepted the otter of one of these dear brethren, Rev. Dr.
Bryson, of the London Mission, and we soon found what a
*' friend in need, and a friend indeed," he was, and how well-
nigh impossible it would have been for us to get on without

him.

Wednesday morning, at daybreak, found us on our way
to Peking. Our outfit consisted of two Chinamen, four

» CHINESE CAB.

mules, two carts without seats or springs, a roll of bedding,
and a basket of provisions for a two days' journey. That
ride ! WeU, we will not be able to describe it. We had rid-
den forty-five miles at a stretch, and as much back again the
next night, in a Coolie cart in India. But that was on a road
as smooth as a floor. But this Peking road was unlike any
road we have ever known or seen described, or imagined. It
led sometimes through great pools of water, up to the hubs,

'■*SfeSW.SK.?!?>¥*'W**

432 LARGER OVTLOOKS ON MISSIOXARY LAXPS.

and again over stone roads broken up into gieat lioles two
feet deep, through which our cart tluimped and bumped like
blows from a maul ; and yet again more f recpiently it was
cut into deep ruts down literally to the hubs. It seemed as
if all the generations of China had gone before us in these
ruts. And with a strange fascination the driver would insist
on always keeping the wheels right in the bottom of the rut.
Often there was a smoother i)lace beside it, but -oh ! no, it
would never do for a Chinaman to get out of the rut his pre-
decessor had gone in before. We came soon to look on our
mule driver and our journey as typical of the Chinese nation
and Chinese history-C/i/na in a rut ! That is just what has
been going on for four thousand years. China is doing what
it always has done. The same sort of carts, with the same
sort of mules, and the same sort of Chinamen, have been go-
ing in the same sort of roads in the same sort of way since
before the time of Abraham. The Chinaman never wants to
change anything. If a bar is at the mouth of a river it must
stay there ; if a house is abandoned it must be left to faU
down at its pleasure ; if a man falls into the river he must
not be disturbed or interfered with ; if a road was good
enough for your father it is good enough for you !

Well, we started. There was nothing for it but to prop
yourself up as well as possible with pillows in the bottom
of the cart and try to find a Roft spot somewhere. And so it
began to bump and thump, from side to side, until first our
back seemed on the point of dislocation, and then our insides
to be shaken like buttermilk in a churn, and then our head

J' I.AXDS.

great lioles two
and bumped like
f reciuently it was
bs. It ^5eemed as
efore us in these
river would insist
)ottoni of the rut.
t, but— oh ! no, it
[)i the rut his pre-
)n to look on our
he Chinese nation
it is just what has
lina is doing what
rts, with the same
len, have been go-
sort of way since
lan never wants to
1 of a river it must
ust be left to fall
the river he must
a road was good
for you !

; for it but to prop
)ws in the bottom
jwhere. And so it
nde, until first our
nd then our insides
and then our head

BUFFALOS AND CART.

KcprocUiclion IVom a CliilH'--t I'liinliiig

■Jll Tin: .VOKTZ/KK-V CA/'ITAI..

433

that L c„v,l,l not think ,:lea,-ly. m„l th. .uu«- os "« " ' "^^ "^
of ,„„■ neck a,hea a» if th.y luul been V-^^'^^, '"^
ana, inde«,l, our whole sy.ten> felt exactly hke a .a n st
feel after he had been shaken by a temer. lalk ot sea^^uk
;;:;! It is abed ,.f down to a Peking .cul and as„ell of .a.t

"*"weU, we had twenty miles of it befo.e-' tiffin," and a
.e,.ysmaUan.ountof cooking sumeed to -t.sfy onv ..^W
ItoL-hs and then we had twenty .niles n.ore after t.Biu
: tU w .'eached the Chinese inn about dark, .here wo were
to dine and rest for the night. It w.« a very fa.v .nn much
letter than we expected, an,l we got out our baske and
infused our tea and cooked our eggs and nee, and ti.cdto
el : r "ten ;orized dinner, and then lay down on our
Te Iding on the Chinese benches they call beds. But oh -. the

::r„;:fingbraiu.andthe,,.— ^^^^

:tr;;:^d!::c^~urkrfot:ta^

rfon T lite And at length we fell .«leep praismg pmymg,

gfonsuch journeys for twelve and twenty days at a fme
into the vast interior.

We were awakened, after four hom-s of sleep, at two
o'clock in the morning, to begin another day of sundar travel^
"inf We got off a good while Wore dayhght, and about
fou; o'Ick we were cheered by a glorious sunnse. All day

434

/..fAVVAA' Ol'TLOOk'S OX MrsS/ONARV /.AXDS.

\\ %.>\^

fi! if

long we rattled on, btopi)ing only for lunch, until about sun-
set we saw before us the gigantic walls of Peking, and knew
that our long journey of eighty miles and thirty hours of
cart traveUing was almost ended. The second day wo were
not nearly so tired. Our system seemed to have got used to
it, and we felt that after a few days, with a good deal of
grace and patience, one could get inured even to a Chinese
cart.

But as we looked at that splendid Capital, we felt that it
AVfxs an (Hitrage that the metropolis of tlie greatest Empire
on earth should liave such an approach to it.

The country through wliich we had passed was most
interesting. It was puiely a farming district. But such
farming ! We wish some of the fossil farmers of the west,
who have worn out their land by ignorance and stupidity,
could only come and see one of these so-called barbarians till
the soil. Every scpiare inch of ground for miles, and hundreds
of miles, is covered with the most beautiful and luxuriant veg-
etation. Every sort of grain and vegetable is raised in the
greatest profusion and perfection. Not a weed is to be seen
nor an inch of waste or neglected ground. Between the
rows of wheat and corn something else is planted,— melons,
pumpkins, beans, sweet potatoes, or some other vegetable to
come on when the other is cut down. Three splendid crops
a year are raised even in this far northern climate — the lati-
tude of our northern States -and yet the land is not exhaust-
ed. It is all most carefully fertilized, and every crumb of
manure is gathered and put back into the soil. The culture

\T f.ixns.

li, until about sun-
Poking, and knew
lul tliirty liours of
cond day we were
,0 have got used to
ith a good deal of
even to a Chinese

ital, we felt that it
e greatest Empire
it.

passed was most
listrict. But such
■mers of the west,
mce and stupidity,
ailed barbarians till
niles, and hundreds
and luxuriant veg-
ible is raised in the
weed is to be seen
und. Between the
s planted, — melons,
} other vegetable to
liree splendid crops
•n climate — the lati-
land is not exhaust-
rid every crumb of
e soil. The culture

TO THE AOKT/IER^' CAPllAL.

435

A CHI^JESe FARM HOUSE.

is mostly by hand, and the whole land looks like a luxuriant
garden We saw no trees except orchards till we reached
the neighborhood of Peking, and then we began to find some
groves of forest trees. There were a good many wild flowers
along the wayside, especially daisies of many colors, a few
prinxroses and a great many varieties of the dwarf convolvu-
lus.

LAKCER Of^Tr.OOk'S O.V .1f/SS/0\'.fUV rANPS.

Tho poasantry seeme<l to be a quiet, industriouB atid in-
offennivc people. Wo listened to many c-onversatious that
were tranHlate.1 to us, and we consider the Chinese farn.er an
bright and intelligent as nuiny of our own worknig people,
and a good deal more so than the laboring classes m many
distric^ts of Englan.l and Germany We beg to assure our
readers that these pi'uple are wortL saving, and that it will
need a very sensible, shrewd, and wide-awake man or woman
to win their respect and c;onfldence.

The walls . -f Peking are magnifies nt. They are, at least,
forty feet high and forty feet wide at the top. We went up,
and walked on them partly round the city, and found the top
of the walls was a finely paved way, on which you could go
round the whole city. The angles of the walls at c.-rtain
points are crowned by lofty superstructures, like massive
towers, carried up, perhaps, fifty or sixty feet above
the walls, and -iving an appearance of great magnificence
from a distance. Peking, at least in its frame and general
plan, is worthy of its imperial importance, and has about it
a certain air of majesty. And even when you get inside and
fairiy examine it, you feel it is unique among all other cities,
and certainly greatly superior to any other place m China.

It is usually divided into three cities, viz.: the Chinese,
the Tartar, and the Imperial. The latter, however, is hardly
a city, but rather a Palace Enclosure, detached from the
Tartar city. The Chinese city is on the south side, enclosed
by separate walls, covering a space of, perhaps, five by three
miles, and a population of between a quarter and half a

ustrious and in-
iversjitions that
lilies*' farin«r as
working ix'ople,
classes in many
>g to assure our
and that it -will
( man or woman

hey are, at least,
). We went up,
nd found the top
ich you could go

walls at ceitain
•es, like massive
xty feet above
eat magnificence
ranie and general

and has about it
'^ou get inside and
ig all other cities,
place in China,
viz. : the Chinese,
lowever, is hardly
(Hached from the
)uth side, enclosed
tiaps, five by three
uarter and half a

TO THE SORTIII.KS' ( WPITAI.

437

million. The Tartar <ity is on the north side, and is much
larger than theCiiineso. with a population of nearly a million.
The streets an* wide and the buildings nnuh suin'rior i<i Cen-
tral and Southern Chinese cities. They are nearly all of

— »-».»■"■'.

WESTERN GATE, PEKING.

brick and roofed with tiles. The roofs have a pretty, concave
form, and the eaves and cornices are often ornamented and
highly colored in imitation of green, red and many colored
tiles. There are a good many temples, and some of them are

438

L.iKCFK OCTLOOKS OX <l//.S.SVOAV/AT /.1N/)S.

somewhat handsoni.- Kv.-rywhoro theio ato ovidcncoH of
thoir boli.'f iiitlH. (>m<a<y of tlu-ir supoistition^. Wo pasHod
ai iinnu'nse shiino coveml with native inscriptioiiH, tclHngof
prayei-H that had been answered thoiv. On a great tal)let was
insrrihed tlio sentence: "If y(ni ask you shall surely re-
ceive "' Tlie day of our arrival it was annou need that the
Emperor had that morning visite.l the Tempi.- of Heaven
and juayed for fair weather.

Our visit was short, hut busy and deeply interesting.
Only two nights could we venture to stay without risking
our return to Shanghai in time to catch our steamer for
Japan. But we were able to accomplish nmch of what was
on our heart. We had come this journey of a fortnight not
to see a Chinese capital, but to visit our dear missionaries,
and come into touch with the other dear workers in the same
vineyard. Very little time did we spend in sight seeing. We
took our walk on the walls in com[.any with a missionary
friend, and we were able to look southward over the vast
Chinese city, away to the Temple of Heaven on the extreme
Bouthern Ixnder. and to learn that there was but one Mis-
sionary Chai.fcl for all this vast populati.-n. We were able to
look northward over the Tartar city, th.' wall on which we
stood intersecting the two cities, and see its vast extent. At
our feet were pointed out the various foreign Legations, and
we look right down on the handsome compounds of the
Methodist Episcopal Society at our feet, and farthei- in the
distance, located the Presbyterian, London and A. B. 0. F. M.
premises.

)• I ,wns.

If ovi<lencoH of
ions. W«) passed
iptions, tolling of
^ti'iit tablet was
Bhall Burely re-
iioiiiued tliat tho
nipU' of lloavt'U

't'ply intereatiiiK-
without riskiiiK
oiii' Hteamer for
mil of what wan
[ a fortnight not
ear n)i8sionaiieH,
irk(Ms in the sarno
sight seeing. We
ith a missionary
ird over the vast
n on the extreme
was but one Mis-
W»' were able to
wall on whicli we
3 vast extent. At
gn Legations, and
ompounds of the
lid farther in the
and A. B. 0. V. M.

" h

jLMin— nrnrrmi

TO THE NORTHERN CAPI'lAL.

439

THE ROYAL PALACE.

We walked about a mile along the wall until we came
right over the Imperial city, and could see the Palace build-
ings within the enclosure. Here the Emperor lives in soli-
tary grandeur. He is young and feeble- looking, judging by
his photograph. He seldom goes o\it of these <iuarters ex-

' 1

.JmitU'

• >\i's.-^'V^,'^'^*ft'nvr-^

^1:1

! 1^

440 /-'A'6Y:A' m'Tf.oohs OX MfSsroxAh'v f.A.wns.

cept to prayer \n the temples, and then all the cross streets
opening into the line of his niarcli are boarded up that no
eye^ may he permitted to desecrate his sacredness hy an un-
hUlowed gaze. He has a lake and a steam yacht and a little
railway to a.uuse himself with, and a great household who
minister to his pleasure. They say he does not love his Em-
press, and, perhaps, there are no sorer hearts in Chma than
those that ache behin.i those Imperial walls. A veil of deep,
impenetrable mystery surrounds him. Few foreigners now
ever enter this Imperial City, and so we saw as much of it as
most people ever will. We were glad we could look down
lip ai it from above. We felt that day that we were a great
way above that poor little sickly king and all his silly, sacred

baubles.

We found our dear missionaries waiting to welcome us.
l^Iiss Duow had recently purchased the premises which she
had been renting for some time. It certainly was a wise
purchase. Think of getting an enclosure in the heart of
Peking, containing nearly an acre of ground, and covered
with many courts, buildings and chambers, with, at least,
ov.>r twentv different apartments, for the sura of !i^l,400, land
and all. We should have thought it ridiculously cheap at
'$U,00«>, and in New York it would easily bring $1+0,000.
They had fixed it up neatly and simply, and altogether it
was as comfortable and suitable a Mission Home as we had
seen in China. It was, formerly, the residence of the Epis-
copal Bishop.

Miss Funk had recently returned to America, but Miss

yi£

')■ f.A.\'DS.

the cross streets
aded up that no
edness hy an un-
yacht and a little
it household who
not love his Eni-
■ts in China than
\. A veil of deep,
w foreigners now
V as much of it as
could look down
■j we were a great
all his silly, sacred

ig to welcome us.
remises which she
tainly was a wise
B in the heart of
ound, and covered
)ers, with, at least,
sum of ^1,400, land
iiculously cheap at
ily bring $1+0,000.
^, and altogether it
)n Home as we had
idence t)f the F.pis-

. America, hut Miss

TO Till-: .\ORTlir.KS lA/'/T.ir..

441

Duow, Miss Gowans and Miss Myers wciv well and happy.
They I'lad all grown ptMce|)til)ly, and Miss Duow ai)peai-ed to
great advantage with her former experience, her knowledge
of the language and people, and the excellent business quali-
ties which her responsible situation had required her to de-

A STREET IN PEKING.

velop. Tlie younger ladies had fairly acquired the language,
and Miss Gowans was teaching an interesting class of girls,
and having a meeting of women, both of which were hope-
ful, while Miss Myers was taking charge of the Home, and
doing what work she could in her leisure hours. Miss Duow

•f?'\

]("it

is*;:

443 LARGER OVri.OOKS OX .VfSS/OX.I R )' LAX^S.

has an excellent meeting of CJliinese v/onien, and we were re-
joiced to hear that a lady-the wife of an official, and her
daughter -had lately been baptized, and that another old lady
desired baptism and she believed was truly converted. Even
such fruits as these, in so short a time, mean a great deal in
China. There is room for two or three more ladies in this
work, and Miss Duow is an anging for their coming.

Our dear friends are nmch respected and beloved by the
other missionaries, and on the second evening of our visit we
had the pleasm-e of meeting nearly all the missionaries of
Peking in their home, and, after some pleasant social fellow-
ship, of explaining to them our work and aims. This was
especially necessary in Peking, as there had been a good deal
of concern respecting the Swedish missionaries and nmch
misunderstanding. We cannot thank God enough for per-
mitting us to visit China at this very time, and enabling us
to remove the most serious misapprehensions from the minds
of the best of men, and bring our woi-k and workers into a
place of the most blessed confidence and sympathy on the
l»art of so many whose fellowship is so invaluable.

Tlie Spirit of God was present in our meeting, ar.d all our
hearts were touched and drawn together in Him, and we felt
that God had given lis precious and lasting friends in that
great Imperial capital. But, better far, we felt that together
we were able to look out on all that vast Empire with one
faith and one heart, and put down the soles of our feet upon
it and claim it all for Christ, and that its evangelization
should soiuehow be prepared before the generation should
have passed away.

• /..I. VPS.

ind we were re-
aflficial, and lier
another old lady
inverted. Even

a great deal in
•e ladies in this
xnniiig.

1 beloved by the
^ of our visit we

niissionarieg of
mt social fellow-
aims. This was
been a good deal
aries and much
enough for per-
and enabling us
3 from the minds
I workers into a
iynipathy on the
Inable.

eting. and all our
Him, and we felt
r friends in that
felt that together
Empire with one

of our feet upon
ts evangelization
;eneration shoidd

TO HIE \oN ini:KS CAPirAi..

443

In this little company were our dear brethren of the
American Presbyterian Missica ; the Methodist Mission repre-
sented by Dr. Lowrie, Superintendent; the American Board,
represented by the venerable Dr. Blodgett ; and the London
Mission- all the Societies laboi-ing in Peking.

We had greatly desired to meet good Dr. Blodgett, the
oldest missionary in this part of China, and were rejoiced ti>
find him waiting for us on our arrival at Miss Duow's, and
also to have the pleasure of spending some time at his own
hospitable home the following day, and learning much that
we could not otherwise have learned of Peking and Northern

i^ IT inn

We were able to mak.? arrangements for tlie coming to
Peking of our Thibetan missionaries for the study of that
language, and we found that there was a Thibetan temple at
the North Gate, with a number of Lamas, among whom it
would not be difficult to obtain a teacher.

We had as much conference with our own beloved work-
ers as the time would allow, and left much encouraged about
their future work. It was but a brief day, but. like the
Transfiguration hour, its light will linger all the days of toil
and time, and when time and Peking, too, shall have passed

away. , , , i

The following morning found us up at three o clock, and
after a loving leave-taking, on our way on two superb don-
keys to the City gates. AVe found them open with the day-
light, and we hastened on with our donkeys fourteen miles
to Tung-chow. We had resolved to change our route return-

444 I.ARCKR OCTf.OOk'S OX /l//SS/OX.'1 AT L.hV/)S.

ONE OF THE INNER GATES, PEKINO,

ing,and take a boat at Tung-chow down the river to Tientsin,
believing that with the downw-^ard current and the wind in
our favor, we could make better time, and by travelhng day
and night, reach Tientsin in time to catch the next morning's
.steamer for Shanghai.

Four hours brought us to Tuiig-choAV. As we passed out

a>L >x

river to Tientsin,
; and the wind in
l)y travelling day
le next morning's

As we passed out

TO THE XOKTIIEKX i.ir/T.U..

445

of the Peking g-.tes we nu>t Imndreds of men hurrying in
with their inuuense loads of vegetahles on their l)ac-ks, .larried
in two great l)askt>ts halanet-d on a hamhoo pole. They were
trotting along under their inuuense loads, and the sweat pour-
ing down their faces. We felt they vvere, indeed, the sons of
Adam and the children of toil. Little wonder that from such
toil even " John Chinaman " sometimes shrinks, and that Pek-

BRIDQE NEAR PEKINQ.

ing is a city of beggars. We saw a bridal procession on the
streets of Peking, in which three hundred beggars, dressed in
gaudy robes of blue and crimson, over filthy garments and
unwashed persons, were carrying magnificent presents, be-
hind a band of music, to the home of a fashionable bride.
They got a few cash for the occasion, and found it easier than

honest work.

A friend in Peking told us that a situation was obtained

^P;i

446

LARniiK OUTLOOKS OS' MrsSlOXANY LAMKS.

for one some time ago, and he went to work for a few day
at good wages, but soon after he was found back at his old
station on the "Beggars' Bridge." When asked if he had
lost his job, he said " No." He had given it iip ; and when
l)ressed for the reason, he replied: -'I can stand cold and
heat, I can bear luniger and rain, but there is one thing I can-
not Jndure,and thatis-to be tired." It is said that 17,000 of
them died of cold and starvation last winter in Peking, but
so vast was the mnnber that they were not even missed.

We reached Tung-chow at eight o'clock, and had the jdeas-
ure of breakfasting with our friend, Dr. Sheffield, and meet-
ing Miss Andrews, sister of one of our dear Alliance workers
in Cleveland, Ohio-beside others. We received a very cor-
dial note of welcome from Dr. Goodrich, another honored
laborer of the A. B. C. F. M. here, who was absent at the
hills We could not tarry to visit the college and other build-
ings here, but were glad to hear of their great prosperity.
We had to hurry on the way. And so, good Dr. Sheffield
took us down to the river, where we found our baggage wait-
ing US-sent on the previous day from Peking by cart, and
a boat already secured. Making a bargain in Chinese style,
and agreeing wi1;h our boatman to give him so much more if
he got us in ahead of time, and requiring him to take on four
extra rowers, we got into our little cabin, and clearing the
shore, and saying "Good-bye," we were soon off on the

Peiho River.

Our boat was a small affair with a roof of mat tmg about
six feet wide and twelve long, and just high enough to stand

iL_i

■ - v»»«V?S*TiX*iM*'»'. ■^

oik for a few day
lul back at his old
X asked if he had
1 it ui> ; and when
m stand cold and
is one thing I can-
said that 17,000 of
ter in Peking, but
, even missed.
, and had the jdeas-
leffield, and rueet-
r AlHance workers
::eived a very cor-
i, another honored
was absent at the
;ge and other build-
great prosperity,
good Dr. Sheffield
I our baggage wait-
iking by cart, and
in in Chinese style,
m so much more if
him to take on four
, and cleai'ing the
re soon off on the

)of of matting about
gh enough to stand

7< > Tin: M >h' rHEKX < . / /'/ /• / /. .

447

lip in But it was a good dt'al easier than oui I'ekijig cart.
The current and thf wind were both in our favor. And ho,
with our sail up we dashed on, sometimes at the rate of
weven or eight miles an houi'. Hut the river was very crooked,
so that a distance of sixty-five miles, in an air line, took us
over one Inmdred and thirty miles by the river's tortuous
course. ('onse(iuently. we often found ourselves running
against the wind, and obliged to take down (»ur sail and get
our men at the oars. Hut we really got on very well, and ac-
corapli.shed a voyage, which usually takes two or three days,
in twenty-tw«) hours, and we both felt that it was "the good
hand of our God upon us.'"

Chinese boats are always interesting. In Central China,
especially those that come from Ningpo, they usually have
two great eyes at the head of the bt»at, which is shaped like
the head of a fish or dragon. The Chinaman's explanation
in pigeon English is, " If he no have eyes, he no can see, he
no can walk." Our boat had no eyes, but its captain and
crew kept their eyes open and rowed and sailed night and
day. A few extra cash will make a great dill'eience in the
amount of work a Chinaman can do.

It was very interesting to sit on the little deck that night,
as the stars came out and the little boat swept down that lit-
tle winding stream in Northern China, and listen to our
friend as he talked to these simple-hearted men about the
Lord. When the wind was favorable, and they did not have
to row, they would sit, Chinese fashion, and listen with open
mouths and eyes and ears, and expressions of w onder and de-

^^siyiff^ssET^—^-'^'- '

hARci'.R ofrr.ooh's ox .u/ss/ox.ia'v /..i.vds.

Ijf'' « tc.ia them of th. Loi'l Tesus walking on the sea

.^M HtmirK the tonipeHl . When th.' win.l wont .h.wn it was
aiuuHing to h..ivi- thnn wlnstHng to it, Uke an Kngh^h tar,
and trying to make it come, and when he explain., lo them
that the wind rould not hear them, th.y listened and won-
dered, hvit 8till kept whistling all the same. As we looked
into their giv lact., ». r wished we could speak Chinese, and
we asked that somehow they might he enahled to understand

the (Jospel of Christ.

But their minds are very dense ; the power of old super-
stition is very strong, and it has to he "line upon line and
precept upon precept. ' '

Sometimes these hoat journeys are very dangevou . < >nly
this week a lady missionary told us how she and a friend hul
lately been attacked by river pirates at night, and while a
sword was hehl to .nich of their throats, their persons and
trunks had been rifled and robbed .f all their valuabli ., and
their lives had only l>een saved by complete and instant sub-
mission. Most of the interior rivi'i s are infes* ' with pin. os.
They seldom at ack a boat with foreigners in ii, as they fe
foreign fire-arms ; but it usual for missionaries to an
at nig!.t beside one of the nativ^. gunboats that, w are . ''1.
are to be foun- all along the river shores.

\ad ye« aese nicive gunboals are rather laughaM".
They havJ only one gun, and it is a fixtui in the si m, so
f^,r^ it has to be sighted by turning the boat round toward
the object to bo aimed at, and holding it steadily by mea.is of
the oars. Indeed, they say they seldom sh .t anythm^ more

r /..IXVS.

IkiuK on t>i<' sea
»nt down it v« aH
an Kngli^h tar,
I)laim'' i(»theni
skned and won-
As we looked
?ak ChinjiHe, and
?d to \it\«l«'r8t;ind

ver of old Hnper-
10 upon line and

dangor<ni- < >nly
and a friend h.ul
ght, and while a
t,heir persons and
Bir valnabii ;, and
and instant sub
with piruies.
in u, as they f ea •
ionaries to an .^
that, w<' are uoJd,

rather langhahle.
1 in the si m, so
lOut round toward
mdily by mestiis of
)t any thin tr more

;"'3fSSSS!

•SWdB'-

m f

11 ^i

ui.

■ ■;Si^\«G9i£*e««!»-TiT™'«'^

TO TIN. XORTnihW (.triTAL.

teriihlo than a l.i^^ liiv .ru.tker. 'I'lwy aiv. l.ow..vei-, very iiu
inercniH, himI sullicimit to givu fair piutwtion to life and

pro|)«!rty.

'I'iifouKli tlie protection of a Stroiigor Arm. we safoly
rea(lu'<l our ileHtination so early that our Tientsin friendH
could scarcely believe that we had been to Peking an<l baric
in four days, and had spent two nights and a day there.

We thoroughly enjoyed the society of our dear brother,
who is a devoted Christian, as well as a distuiguisbed minis-
ter and missionary of many y.-ars' experience, and whoso ex-
treme kindness in leaving his work and taking that ti7ing
journey for the accommodation of a stranger, we could not
too highly appreciate and can only ask the Master to reward.
The steamer for Shanghai had left two hours before our
arrival, but this only gave occasion for another example of
God's care and the kindness of Christian friends.

A Christian gentleman in Tientsin, interested in the
steamship lines, hearing of our desire to get off to Shang-
hai, at once arranged to have one .)f his steamers leave early
on Monday morning, and, although she was a freight boat,
and had no regular accommodations for passengers, yet they
kindly airanged a "shakedown" for us in the cabin used
by the officers as a saloon and dining room, and wo got on
delightfully, and were able to have a Sabbath of rest in
Tientsin, and to get off early on Monday morwing and reach
Shanghai, with a day to spare for matters of great import-
ance there.

Our only regret was that our steamer did not stop at Che-
f oo on her way downward and our expected visit to Dr. Nevins

jr*\ ■jW'lilNl '

SI-

1 li

I !

450 LARGER Orfr.OOKS ON MTSSIONARY LANDS.

and the Presbyterian Mission there had to be abandoned.
We had met Dr. C^orbett, of this Mission, in Shanghai, and
heard with much joy of the great blessing that God has been
pouring out in the past year on all the work in Shantung.
This is the district where so much famine relief was distrib-
uted during the past few years, and the effect of it has been
to open the hearts of the people and awaken their confidence
in the missionaries, and they are earnestly sowing the seed
in the deeply-plowed soil, and reaping quick and glorious

harvests.

By far the most encouraging results of mission work in
China, duiing the past year, have been in this province of
Shantung, and some of the best of them have been in the
Presbyterian Mission. We have received the admirable re-
port of the Mission, and shall be glad to i)ublish some ex-
tracts from it soon. Dr. Corbett has just gone to America,
and we hope our people may be able to hear him tell of the
glorious work in North China.

We were deeply grieved, while at Tientsin, to hear from
many private letters the harrowing details of the famine
which is now ravaging Shansi, the field of our Swedish mis-
sionaries. Missionaries there write of destruction so ten-ible
that men v/ere working a whole day for a single cash, the
tenth part of a cent, and selling their wives and children as
slaves, for a few do . ars. Young girls were being sold for three
dollars each, and sent southward, in carts, by the score. In one
village sixty-three girls had passed through that week from the
famine district. We need not say that these giris were
bought for the most infamous purpose, and taken from their

■-i..-ii

4Py LANDS.

to be abandoned,
a, in Shanghai, and
•• that God ha8 been
work in Shantung.
} rehef was distrib-
iftect of it has been
:en their confidence
tly sowing the seed
quick and glorious

of mission work in
in this province of
n have been in the
d the admirable re-
;o publish some ex-
ist gone to America,
lear him tell of the

entsin, to hear from
etails of the famine
of our Swedish mis-
estruction so terrible
)r a single cash, the
ives and children as
*e being sold for three
I, by the score. In one
^h that week from the
lat these girls were
and taken from their

TO THE NORTHERN CAPITAL.

451

homes for enforced lives of shame, on the proceeds of which
multitudes of Chinese people live and grow rich Indeed
we saw in the tea houses of Shanghai scores of girls who
wore the absolute property of men and women who lived
upon their earnings, and these children knew no better than
to be the victims and the tools of their avarice.

Out of these famine horrors, and the blessed mfluences
that come from their relief, God prepares thesoil of Northern
China for the seed of the Gospel. We are so sorry that be-
fore our people at home will have time to reach these suffer-
ers, the horrors of the present crisis will be over-and the
new crops will have ripened. Our dear missionaries write us
that God has sent abundant rains, and by these our new mis-
sionaries have been commended to the confidence of the peo-
ple, and the temptation to blame them for the drought has
thus been prevented.

But we must hasten on our jouvney. Three days of
pleasant saihng brought us to the end of our twelfth^a
voyage since leaving home, and our sixty-fifth oay on ship-
board We reached Shanghai, with a little over a day to
spare before our steamer left for Japan. Our letters just
brougnt us the particulars of the burning of our Mission and
publishing rooms in New York, and the wonderful and gra-
cious way in which the loss of the publishing company has
been met, and once more - we thanked God and took cour-
age" as we felt how His mighty and faithful hands were
guiding and upholding us and our dear ones on the other
side of the world. Blessed be His Holy Name for ever and
evermore *.

XXIV.

LAST GLIMPSES OF CHINA.

NEARLY two days, after our return from the north,
were all that were left us to take leave of Shanghai
and China. A lot of business matters, an enormous
mail, several calls and callers, two public services and sev-
eral quieter ones left little unoccupied leisure. At length we
found ourselves, on Saturday, the 17th of June, on the steam
launch for Woosung, where the "Empress of China "was
waiting, fourteen miles down the river, to bear us to Japan.
A kind party of missionaries and friends accompanied us
unto the ship, and after a brief leave-taking, we were on our
way to another missionary land.

As we look back once more at these receding shores, let
us gather up some of the results of these eight weeks of
Chinese travel and observation.

These sixty days in China have been full of labor and
thought, and our head is literally aching with the strain of
an almost unconscious effort, day and night, to grasp the
tremendous Chinese situation.

We have seen something of this immense land, perhaps
as much as if a visitor to America should spend a few days^
at New Orleans, St. Louis, Washington, New York, Buffalo,.
45a

LAST GLIMPSES OF CHINA.

453

[INA.

■11 from the north ^
i leave of Shanghai
itters, an enormous
ic services and sev-
5ure. At length we
June, on the steam
)ress of China " was
o bear us to Japan,
inds accompaniea us
ing, we were on our

receding shores, let
lese eight weeks of

een full of labor and
g with the strain of
night, to grasp the

mense land, perhaps

lid spend a few days-

New York, Buffalo,

Cleveland, Chicago, St. Paul, Toronto, Montreal and Bos on
We have visited the seven most important of the eighteen
provinces, and the fourteen most important of the fourteen
hundred walled cities of China. Such ceiitres as Canton,
Hong Kong, Shanghai, Nanking, Hankow, Wuchang, (xank-
ng Chin-kiang. Hu-kiang, Tientsin, Chefoo, Peknig, and
Tmig-chow give one a fair conception of the south, he
.entre and the north of China, and yet beyond these he the
immense western provinces of Bz-chuen, Yunnan, Kwei-chau,
Kansuh, and Shensi, just as Texas, Colorado, Dakota, Nevada
.md Arizona lie beyond, what we used to ^all, the Great West,
in America, and what now is scarcely the centre.

One can form some conception of the immensity and in-
accessibiUty of interior China, when we say that beyond he
most western point we reached, a point corresponding to the
situation of Chicago in the United States, there a- mission
stations to which it takes nearly three months or their mail
to come, even from Hankow. This is not merely on accoum
.f distance, which is not so great as our West, but partly the
difficulty of communication. ,, , ,

We have tried to look at China with our Master s eyes,
and while we know these are only first impressions, yet we
are glad to reproduce the imperfect vision, for all ^t^^ worthy
for the benefit of those who may only be able to see it through

our eyes. . ,

China proper consists of eighteen provinces, each aver-
aging a population about as gre^t as New York, Pennsylvania
and all of New England. These provinces have each a sort

i^^99BflHfe.i^_

454

LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSION.IRY LANDS.

of local government, under a Viceroy, who resides at the
Provincial Capital. All these eighteen provinces, of course,
form one great Empire, under the absolute rule of the em-
peror at Peking. There is an Imperial system of Customs,
in v^'hich the government is greatly assisted by foreign ofii-
cialB. The whole system is under the direction of Sir Robert
Hart, who has, probably, more influence over the emperor
and his poUcy than any other foreigner in China, and who
has raised the Customs' revenue five-fold in twenty-five years.
There is also a large standing army and a fine navy. China
has a fleet of some of the best gunboats in the world, and as
we paesed down the river we saw five of them lying at
anchor, as handsome and as powerful as any in the British
or German navy.

Each of the great provinces is divided into larger and
smaller districts. The larger include the less. Each of the
larger districts is governed from a " Fu " city, and the smaller
are like ou'- counties, and the county-seat is called a
"H'sein" (sheyn) city. These "Fu" and "H'sein" cities
are all walled, and they number nearly fifteen hundred in the
whole Empire. There are, besides these, thousands and hun-
dreds of thousands of unwalled towns and villages. The
i^eople all live in villages or towns, and go to the fields to do
their farm work, returning to their village home at night.
Isolated country houses are unknown in China.

What is the population of China ? It is very difficult to
j-nswer this (luestion, but w.e believe it has been overesti-
mated. We have always accepted the estimate of 400,000,-

.iA')' LANDS.

Nho resides at the
rovinces, of course,
ute rule of the em-
system of Customs,
5ted by foreign offi-
iction of Sir Robert
over the emperor
in China, and who
a twenty-five years.
I fine navy. China
n the world, and as
! of theiu lying at
^ any in the British

ded into larger and
e less. Each of the
;ity, and the smaller
y-seat is called a
ind " H'sein" cities
teen hundred in the
thousands and hun-
and villages. The
yo to the fields to do
lage home at night.
China.

It is very difficult to
, has been overesti-
estimate of 400,000,-

LAST (:/A.uPSf:s or cin.x. i.

455

wan-ant so large a figure. Ih.s, « i.«w . ^^^

nearly twenty-five million for each of tl.e r.ovmc,.-.
Zw that many of them have "<>' "-'y ~^j;«t'
ana the ve., largest „. '^em^- ... ov„^^^^^^^

while Yunnan, ^i^'"^;^^"':^Z^,. .„,,0«.V.e0 a
millions each. Upon the xMioit., wc

very full estin.ate, and shall not u. future P-^f * f ^^^
ChL is, probably, Just about as populous as Ind.a, and not

"^^wLchinaisstin..utherut,-'yetsheisget.n^
nf it Her progress in a single generation has been vei)
^el^L^fetwome^^hC^^Hoa.^^^

and the \ angise. j- ^^ ^^^^^ j.^.

"- T' 'c:" r.,r.:.;»";.i..".«-

from the mme to the m ei, ^^ Peking. The

^isfor a yet longer "'« ^^ "^^ ..^ I !.hv,«ly
railway that now runs from iaRu

^fj^f^»^

456

f.jh'ar.h' ofrr/.ooA's ox Ar/ssmx.iA'V /..ixns

being extended further north, apd will ultimately connect
with the Russian lines, which are fast being completed to the

Pacitic coast.

Should this all come about, the entering wedge will have
gone too far to recall, and it will not he long till it will open
up the great western pi-ovinces, and give us direct railway
communication from China to Loudon in twelve days.

And yet it must not be supposed that any of these indi-
cations of Chinese progress He very near the surface. It
seems, indeed, to a general observer the slowest country in
the woi-ld. It is dreadfully conservative. A map of China,
prepai-ed and published by the Chinese, is the funniest sight
imaginable. The Celestial Country occupies about two feet
square. Then along the edges are little strips about an inch
long and a quarter of an inch wide, representing the other
countries that lie somewhere beyond "the Great Desert," or
"the Great Sea."

We tried to persuade a native a* Tatung that we had
been traveUing east for five months, and after going on in
the same direction about two months longer we should reach
the point from which w^e started, and we explained it by the
statement that the world was round. He looked at us with
an amused expression and then turned away, as nmch as to
say . " Well— you don't expect me to beheve that, do you ? "

To one who is looking for the picturesque and beautiful
it is very disappointing. There are places to be found ex-
ceedingly beautiful, and even grand. But most of China is
commonplace and monotonous. Even the pagodas and pretty

)■ /..ixns

iiniately connect
completed to the

; wedge will have
g till it will open
IS direct railway
;^elve days,
luy of those iiidi-
the sui'face. It
owest country in
A map of China,
he funniest sight
s about two feet
ps about an inch
senting the other
Great Desert," or

;ung that we had
after going on in
r we should reach
splained it by the
looked at us with
ly, as much as to
; that, do you ? "
que aud beautiful
5 to be found ex-
most of China is
jagodas and pretty

i|:l!!,

' I I

'■ -alL'^L.

L.isrcL/.urs/:s of c///.v.i.

457

tea-houses you see in your picture books are few and far be-
twe*; a China. Most of the teiuph^sare very ordhiary look-
ing. And most of the cities are just great masses of low,
•common looking buildings, so (;losely crowded together that a
bird's eye view from a tower or a hill presents nothing but
a mass of roofs.

The chief interest of China is in its immensity, its an-
tiquity, its vast natural resources, and its strange, unchang-
ing, and strongly-marked people.

For the people of China are, doubtless, the leading race of
Asia. Wherever they meet the other Asiatic races on mid-
dle ground they always come out in the ascendant. In India
the Chinaman earns twenty-five cents a day, and the Hindu
eight or ten. In Singapore and Penang he rides in his car-
riage in the Gai'dens, and is the money-lender, the merchant
and the millionaire, and the Malay fades befoi-e him. And in
China he has stood for four thousand years like a colossal
and immovable buttress against all the billows of Time and
Change, surviving amid destructive conditions and influences
which, surely, no other race could stand. The Hindu has
<^ver been a conquered race ; the Malay and the Polynesian is
a fading race. The Chinese, notwitlistanding poverty, over-
crowding, poisoned water, filthy smells, unhealthy houses,
extremes of heat and cold, and the competition for existence
of as many, sometimes, as seven hundred to the square mile,
and, above all other curses, the awful curse of opium, is tho
most populous and vigorous race on earth to-day.

If there ever was an illustration of the principle called

mCZ"

■I !

458

i.AKt:iiH iirruwKs on Mi^sionmk^ i.jnds.

" the suvvival of the tittesl, ' pert-.,.. y «re. The »t™K-
de tor existem-e U so sharp that only th- «tro„Ke»t can sur

Vive, and «> we see a nafon to-day "-^.f "-"Vlt t
oxen, that can run with a "rik l.a l.ke h..„«., that > a
Zr „p under suifenn^ a.ul pain Hke .to, ., and yet do all
these things on a diet of ri,c and a (e^^ sr-vos.

The women are as hanly as the ., 'i Mr. W alker gives
it as his opinion that the rea»<,n the , ..«ans are dyj
out is because the mother, have to work so hanl, and then
offspring is stnnted and injur,.!. But the women of Oh ma
..o,k much harder in the fields and thebur. -n bearm, ot the
roads. And even during n.atern.ty, it is .he.dtul 1 ■> they
are neglectcl and expec.ed to keep up the,, ' J ""« ^
keep step with others in the dread march ot hi. o 1^ And
yelthev stand it, and their children stand ■' a.d the race
lives and grows, and l«,ks down with a hoary and .m-
^vearied age on the younger generations ot time. They a,e
the most remarkable race on earth, phys.cally. We have
o£ten looked at the " riksha" men of Hong K,,ng and Shang-
tai their limbs like great trees or immense pdlars of stone,
a'd they will run inthe hot sun for hours until U makes one

weary to see them. mu^,r

But these people are more than splend.d brutes. They
are men of keen intellect and shrewd common sense. Ot^n
have we listen«l to the talk of the common PeoL te ™ the
boats, in the country, n> the inquiry meetmg, and had then
..ords interp>*d to us, and we hav,. been •'^''^h^l witMh^r
keenness of observation, their discernment of character,

' UI.

I.INPS.

re. The strug-

Mi^est <;an sur
carry loads like
lors^es, that an
'i«l yet do all

. alkei' gi'
sianH are "lying
hanl. and their
vonit'u of China
11 bearing of the
■ea/lful 1 '^ they
gir 1 -, and to
htt toil. And
7+ and the race
hoary and un-
time. They are
cally. We have
Konj.; and Shang-
; pillars of stone,
intil it makes one

ilid brutes. They
non sense. Often
ion people on the
ing, and had their
lelightetl with their
jnt of character,

LA SI c.i

OF CHINA.

459

then 8ly humor, their ton ,-ss for talking, theirgoo<limturo,
and tiieir ability to reason .'vtui on dc-p religious and philo-
Rophical questions.

Their power of memory is prodigious. Their scholars
know almost all their classical books by heait, and these

CHINESE WHEELBARROW.

books contain many large volumes. Their officials are all
men of education. Tn China, all political positions are won
by study, and while their method of education does not de-
velop the y ghest intellectual (juaHties. yet it is said that the
State pn rs of their public men are often mai-ked by great
ability, and their leading statesmen are men of rare insight,
tact and capacity.

j!ni )i |i w ; w «

S^^^g^'f^v;^ ^.

li-i

460 i-.'^P^r.R orTLOoK-s ox Mrssms-.tRY r.^.vns.

W« have xxu'i a few officials, and more graceful a.ul dig
nifled n.ann.rs we have never ...>. Even the l-^^t Coohe.
before he drinks hiB tea or eats his n.e. will offer ,t to you,
and we have often felt our Anplo-Saxon hluntness put to
.hame hy the manners of these heathen. ,,..,,„„

Their poverty has often been referred to, hut beais no
cnnparison to the poverty of the Hindu. True, .n fanune
aisticts and seasons, they are often reduced to ahjeet des^^
tution, hut ordinarily you see no sueh want m Cluna a w^^
saw all .>ver India. Most China.nen can earn ten to t^«»ty-
five cents a day. and buy all the rice he wants. Mdhc^s o^
Hindus never eat rice, and their average niconie ib ten dollars

\' Chinese native house is, as a rule, far superior to a
Hindu home, and we have seen many that are greatly supe-
rior to the usual dwellings of the laboring classes m Europe

What is the attitude of these people toward foreigners
There is no doubt that it is most unfriendly. The lowest
Chinaman is taught by every instinct and tradition that he is
immeasurably superior to the highest foreigner. He looks
down upon him as an inferior and an intruder, and it is
counted a great thing by our missionaries, in the niteriois
.hen the people l,egin to condescend to notice them upon the
street, bid them good morning or consent to rent them a

They don't want the foreigner, and would be glad to get
rid of him if they could. This is especially true of the higher
classes and the officials. Step by step the foreign i«i«aonary

-»#»'„' SH*^ ,

•aceful and dig
e lowest Coolui,
offer it, to you,
untn«'SH put to

;o, l)ut iK'iirs no
Tiut', iu famine
i to abject desti-
; in China as we
n ten to twenty-
nts. Millions of
nie ia ten doUai-s

ar superior to a
are greatly supe-
!las8(!8 in Europe,
ward foreigners 1
cUy. Tlie lowest
•adition that he is
signer. He looks
itruder, and it is
}, iu the interior,
ice them upon the
it to rent them a

)uld be glad to get
true of the higher
toreigu miflfliouary

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WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

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Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductlons / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques

LAST GL/MPSES OF CHINA.

461

and trader han ^ot into city after city, and the treaties have
established his right to stay, bnt there is, no douht, a fixed
determination to Uniit this as much as possible, and to pre-
vent it going any further. It is exceedingly difficult to get a
house to rent in a new town, and to build a foreign house m
the interior would be impossible until the people had become
famiUar with the new comers by a few years' residence. It
has been tried several times, but the building has been always
pulled down and the owners turned out.

The riots which break out from time to time are the best
evidence of this feeUng. It is difficult to say whether the
officials OB the common people are most to blame for this an-
tagonism. The two provinces of Quangsi and Hunan are the
most unfriendly, and in the latter no Protestant missionary
has yet been allowed to .ettle. One reason for this is the fact
that the Hunanese compose a large part of the Chinese army,
and they had a very active part in putting down the Taipmg
Rebellic u, which was nominally a Christian movement. Con-
sequently the very name of Christian is especially odious to
them But in all the provinc . i« exceedingly difficult to
open a new station, and even since we have been m China
there have been several outbreaks, and the work of the mis-
sionaries has been stopped in several places. The church
cannot too fully realize that China is the most difficult mis-
sion field in the world, and only the very wisdom, patience,
faith, and providence of God can open it fuUy to the Gospel.
What are the chief obstacles to mission work m China ?
Well, the first is the difficulty of getting settled at all in the
interior.

i'i

■■■■■■■■li

463 LARGER Or'TLOOK'S OA' MrsSIONARV LANDS.

Then conies the prejudice and opposition of the people to
the doctrine. The Chinaman is naturally opposed to any
change. But to change from heathenism to Christianity is
peculiarly unnatural. His old religion is bound up with all
that is dearest to him. The strongest thing in Chinese idol-
atry is ancestral worship. And this takes hold of everything
that is strong and sacred in the human heart. To abandon
this is an outrage upon every human feeUng.

Then the Christian conception of God is hard for a China-
man to grasp. To him either nature is God, and he cannot
distinguish between heaven and its Creator, or there are
many gods, in the form of deified men ; and he has no diffi-
culty in accepting the deity of Christ, but how He can be the
Supreme and only God, is all new and foreign. Besides, the
whole structure of the Christian Scriptures is new and strange
and unintelligible to hirn. Much has to be explained before
he can even grasp the fundamental idea of the Gospel, and
the missionary has to become a patient teacher, and "line
upon line, precept upon precept, here a little and there a lit-
tle," prepare the very elements of thought and gently lead
him to grasp the primary truths of the Bible.

For this reason, the Scottish Bible Society has recently
issued, after much discussion, an annotated Bible for the
Chineae, explaining such terms as God, the Sabbath, and
many allusions and references which are absolutely unintel-
ligible to the Chinese mind.

What has been accomplished already in China ? Chinese
missions are only two generations old, and yet much has

•->

■.^v

PUNCH AND JUDY.

R(l)ri«Uu-tion from a Chinese I':iinliiiK-

LAST GlJMPSIiS OF CHINA.

463

been done. Looking at it, nuniorically, it seems very Btnall
to talk of 40,uu.! converts out of three hundred nnUion8,-one
in 7 500 Still smaller do."S it look when you go into a vast
city'like Canton, l>eking or Hankow and see the swarmnig
millions on the Sabbath day, pouring out through the busy
streets in pursuit of gain, and in ignorance of God, and then
find your way to a little chapel or two, where a handful ot
saved men and women are worshipping the true God amid
this great mass of ungodliness.

But there are other standpoints from which it appears

anything but small.

It is no small thing that, in all the great cities of China,
notwithstanding the bitter antagonism of the nation, strong
mission centres have been planted, and native congregations
have been gathered, which stand continually before the
eyes of the natives as demonstrations of the fact of a living
Christianity and samples of its blessed character, influences
and power, as well as distributing centres from which the
truth is going out, not only from the Uving voice, but also
from the printed page, to thousands.

It is no small fact that, by dint of faith, patience and holy
tact more thanone hundred great strategic points in the in-
terior have been secured and opened in missionary centres,
from which every province but one can be re. ; ed, and in
fact at least evangelized. These are trains alonf, which the
heavenly dynamite is boing scattered, but the laying of a
train is often half the battle, and God may, in a single hour,
flaah all along these lines the fire of His heavenly power, and

464

LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIOXARY LANDS.

encircle tlic cnipin; with His glory. The uiowt difficult tiling
for a general is to get a good position, and in China it is a
great thing to get any ])osition at all. But as we look over
the map of China, we shall find that tlie hest centres in most
of the provinces have heen given to the army of ('hrist dur-
ing th(5 past (juarter of a century.

It is hut a few years since more than half the provinces
of China were wholly unoccupied. Within a little more than
a decade the immense province of Szchuen, witli nearly thirty
millions of people, has heeii occupied, in some of its i)rincipal
centres, by half a dozen societies. The two provinces of
Yunnan and Kvvei-chow, in the Southwest, have been occupied
in a number of places l)y that brave pioneer Society which
has done more than all others to open interior China, —the
China Inland Mission. The same Society has pushed its sta-
tions into Shensi and Kansuh, which constitute the North-
western frontier of China, and now another society has joined
them in Shensi. Within the same time Honan and Shansi,
in the North, have been ])lanted, with several stations, and
already we may say that that missionary army has been able
to place its outposts on the salient points of all the Western
provinces but Hunan. This is, indeed, a great deal, and only
one who has been in China and seen the difficulties of getting
a single outpost can fully understand it.

Then it is no small matter that a native church has been
gathered in many various centres, and has given to the world
a loving demonstration of what the Gospel can <1() for Chi-
nese men and women. The first Chinese convert that, after

-^L

fDS.

LAST (./J.vpsj-s or r ft ISA.

465

cult thirty
lina it ik a
look over
es irj most
'hrist dur-

provinwR
more than
Lilly thirty
■4 principal
Dvinces of
n occupied
ety which
tiina, -the
led its sta-
he North-
has joined
lid Shansi,
itions, and
t l>een ahle
e Western
I, and only
of getting

1 has heen

the world

for Chi-

that, after

seven years of waiting, n^warded the faith of Rohert Morri-
son, was the pledge of all the rest. Tiie first forty thousand
converts that, after two generations, have rewarded the faith
of the church, ar«i the patterns and the pledges of the millions
that God can as easily gather from the land of Sinini.

When a man wants to manufacture a valuahlti machine,
he first makes a mod(>l, and he takes a good while to i»erfect
it. Years often are spent in tests and improvements, until
at last his model is ready and his patent is issued. Then it is
easy to multiply it hy millions.

During these years God has been preparing His patterns
in China. He has been waiting, piahaps, for a higher type
of native Christians. And when He gets them He can easily
multiply them by millions. In the churches at home we
have often quantity enough ; what we want is (juality, — a
higher, nobler, diviner type.

Thank God, some of these have be«ni rising up in China.
We have met some noble specimens of native Christians.

There is an old man in one of the cities on the Yangtse,
whose elder brother threatened to bury him alive if he did not
conform to the native custom and have his mother buried
with idolatrous rites. He stood firm, and told his family that
it was a rare privilege to be permitted to suffer persecution
for Jesus' sake. He would have stood unto death, had not
God delivered \\h by laying His hand on that wicked brother
and taking him us of the world.

There are two men in China, who, a few months ago,
when Mr. and Mrs. Turner were to be beaten in Western Sz-

RIlliPiiiiiPiliilliHi

466 r.ARGKR OVTI.OOKS OS MISSIONARY I.ANOS,

chuen. t.> api>eaHe the l.«ople, offered to take the punishment
theiuHelves, an<l now, instead of wanti..^ syn.pathy, they are
said to be the happi<!Ht men in China.

Tlieie is an old native pastor in Shansi, whose 8i...ple
faith in God has brought help and healing to th<.usands and
who teaches his people to trust God Just as Pastor Blumhardt
i„ Germany, Dr. Hoardn.an in I.ondon. Dr. Culhs n. Boston
and others. There are thousands of native Christians m
Shantung, who, according to the testimony of Dr. ^evln8
believe in the unchanged power of the Son of God to cast out
devils, and who, in thousands of cases, have claimed ttie de-
liverance of Satan's captives, and seen the power of God, as

in the days of old.

And s.) God has been preparing the forces and posting
them at the great strategic points, not so much with refer-
ence to the mere preliminary results which we have yet seen,
but preparatory to the great advance which He is abou to
make, we earnestly believe, with a view to the evangehzatioa
of the whole of this mighty Empire.

IJV/>X

Hi punishment
athy, they are

whose Hii.iple
housands, and
tor Bhimhardt
lUis in Boston,
3 Christians in
of Dr. Kevins,
Ood to cast out
ilainied the de-
Avor of God, as

i;ea and posting
uch with refer-
B liave yet seen,
He is about to
evangelization

XXV.

THE MISSIONARY OUTLOOK IN CHINA.

THE London Missionary Society is one of the oldest— in-
deed, thi! oldest society in Cliina. Under its auspices,
Morrison, Mcnlhurst and Marshman came as the first
l)ionoers to the closed gates of Canton. It is still one of the
strongest and most successful agencies in the empire. We
had the plea.^ure of meeting its missionaries at their central
stations in Canton, Shanghai, Hankow, Tientsin and Peking,
•and seeing nmch of its substantial work. It is one of the
most conservative societies in China, and believtis in doing
good and solid work, and taking time to do it well. Its mis-
sionaries are well paid and, as a rule, well qualifte<l and some-
what highly educated. Its work in Hankow is, perhaps, the
best type of its methods and success. Rev. Griffith John,
the head of that Mission, is a man of great strength of per-
sonal character, and his influence :s strongly felt throughout
.the whole Mission, and, indeed, the whole of China. The
special feature of the Mission is the concentration of the
forces at the centre and the building up of a strong work
there, without attempting too wide a (drcle. The London
Society has done grand service in all its great centres, but
only aims directly to occupy a limited field, and it represents
467

r^■

468 LARGER OVTLOOKS OS MISSIOXARY LANDS.

the idea of concentration rather than wide-spread distrihu-

tion.

At the other extreme stands the China Inland Mission,,
representing the idea of a universal and ever-aggressive evan-
gelism for the whole of China. Its history is an inspiring
and instnu^tive lesson. It hegan with the personal work of
its founder, Mr. Hudson Taylor, nearly thirty years ago, and
has grown up in a generation to be the largest missionary
agency in China and in the world.

Its great distinctive purpose has ever been to send the-
Gospel to the unoccupied portions, and, especially, the in-
terior of China. It has so far succeeded in this glorious ob-
ject that its stations are now planted in all but four of the-
provinces of China, and its evangeUsts have preached in all,,
we believe. It is the only society laboring in a number of
the interior provinces, viz., Yunnan, Kwei-chow andKansuh,
and it was the first to enter Sz-chuen, Shensi, Shansi and
Honan, where others have since followed, and are building
on the foundations laid by these brave pioneers. It has also
many stations in the provinces of Che-Kiang, Kiang-su,
Kiangsi, Ghanwhei, Shantung, Chih-li and Hupeh, where the
older societies are chiefly grouped. Altogether it has more
than five hundred missionaries, and occupies over one hun-
dred stations in the best strategic points throughout the em-
pire.

Its government is Episcopal, the whole work being under
a director, and each point of the field governed by a superin-
tendent. Its missionaries are characterized by much sim-

LANDS.

)iea(l distribU'

nland Mission,,
^gressiveevan-
s an inspiring
reonal work of
years ago, and
est missionary

in to send the
icially, the in-
lis gloi'ious ob-
ut four of the-
reached in all,
1 a number of
w andKansuh,
Lsi, Shansi and
d are building
s. It has also
ang, Kiang-su,
ipeh, where the
er it has more
over one hun-
ighout the em-

)rk being under

i by a superin-

by much sim-

r///r MISSION Ak'V outlook in china.

469

plicity, self-denial and consecrated zeal. Its methods are ag-
gressive and economical. Its history is a record of faith,
providence and the power of the H »ly Ghost. Its unwritten
record, every week, is full of incidents, revealing the spirit
of true sacrifice and heroism and the mighty working of God
in many parts of China. Doubtless, it has the imperfec-
tions of all human things, but in its chief aims, as an aggres-
sive, economical and far-reaching effort to evangelize China
by humble, consecrated and Scriptural agencies, it has so far
been successful in an extraordinary degree, and it is as yet
only at the threshold of holy career.

Between these two societies, a great number of others
may be ranked as they partake more of the peculiar charac-
teristics of either.

The Presbyterian Missions are located in most of the
great centres. The Northern Presbyterians are .strongly es-
tablished in Canton, Shangliai, Nanking, Chefoo and Peking.
Their most suc-cessful Mission is in Chefoo, and is represented
by such names as Drs. Nevius and Corbett.

The Southern Presbyterians are working along tiie Grand
Canal in the province of Kiang-su. The Canadian Presby-
terians, after a brave fight, have won a good position in Ho-
nan. The English Presbyterians have a noble work in Amoy
and Swatow, founded by Wm. Burns. The Irish and United
Presbyterians have a fine work in Neuchang and Manchuria,
ii northern province, just outside of China proper.

The Baptists have a most successful Mission in Swatow,
and have recently entered the great province of Sz-chuen.

I i

470 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON M/SSIONARY LANDS.

The Southern Baptists have a good work in Canton and
vicinity, and also in Shanghai. The Enghsh Baptists are
in Shantung, the Canadian Baptists in Shensi, and the
Seventh Day Baptists in Shanghai.

The Methodists have a strong work in China. The Eng-
lish Methodists are very strong in Canton, Hankow, and
vicinity, and Tientsin. The Canadian Methodists have found-
ed a strong Mission in Sz-chuen, under Mr. Hart, formerly
of our Board. The Southern Methodists have a good work
in Shanghai and vicinity, and the Northern Methodists have
strong Missions in Foochow, Nanking, Ku-Kiang, Wuhu,
Chin-Kiang, Tientsin and Peking. As in India, their meth-
ods are well planned and strongly carried out, and while a
good deal of their work is educational, yet it is pervaded by
a most earnest and aggressive spirit, and baptized with the

Holy Ghost.

The American Board has a good work m Canton, m

Shantung, in Peking, and in Shansi.

The American Episcopalians are posted along the Yang-
tse at Shanghai, Wuchang, and other points. The English
Episcopalians are at Peking, Suchow, Ningpo, Shanghai,
Hong Kong, and several other points. The Disciples are
working in Central China at Nanking and Wuhu. The Quak-
ers are at Nanking. Several Swedish and Norwegian Socie-
ties are working at Wuchang and Hankow. Several German
Societies are very strongly estaWished in Quantung and Hong
Kong. The Woman's Union Missionary Society have an ex-
cellent school and hospital in Shanghai. And the great Bible

NPS.

Cauton and
[Baptists are
isi, and the

I. The Eng-
[ankow, and

have found-
irt, formerly
a good work
hodists have
ang, Wuhu,
, their meth-

aud while a
\ pervaded by
ized with the

n Canton, in

mg the Yang-
The Enghsh
50, Shanghai,
Disciples are
lu. TheQuak-
fwegian Socie-
jveral German
ung and Hong
ty have an ex-
bhe great Bible

■/■///: jf/ss/(hVAA'yor77.ooA-/xc//L\'.-i. 471

Societies of England, Scotlan.l, an.l America are working in

all parts of the empire.

This is but a general a.ul imperfect view of the distribu-
tion of the chief batallions of the missionary army < )ur
own youthful and humble work, as we have already sliown.
is establishing itself in five different centres : Quangsi in be
south, Ghanwhei in the centre, Wuchang in the west, 1 e-
king in the northeast, and Shansi in the far -rtb and aims
to pursue lines and methods similar to those of the China

Inland Mission. .

We have seen many methoas of missionary work m
China. There is much e-lucational work, and it has a certam
value, especially where it is utilized to prepare workers for
the evangelistic field, but we Mieve the convct.on is gen-
eral that the greatest need of China is evangelism rather than
education. There is also nmch n.edical mission work, an,
we have examined it with great interest and seen a good deal
ot the hospital and dispensary system in Canto.,, Nanking,
Shanghai Wuhu. Hankow and Tientsin, and we have a high
!pp:^r ion of its value under proper conditions. There can
Tno doubt of its utility in attracting the atten ion and
toterest of the natives and opening their minds to listen to
he Gospel. In the various mission hospitals of China, more
hanhdf a million ,.eople ai-e annually brought into direct
ZLt with Christianity and Christian teachers, who wou^d
stably be cached in no other way. They come t,^th^
hospitals and dispensaries for treatment, and all of hem
stay long enough to hear th,. Gospel once, and some of them

nii

li!

Al-

LARGER OrTLOOKS OX MISSIONARY I.. \XDS,

stay for weeks mikI are taught as regularly as they are pre-
scribed foi'. Their successful ti'citnieiit inspii-es them with
giatitude. and a measure of confidence in the missionary, and
they are, at least, more ready to hear his message. Only-
one who knows something of the intense indifference and
contem])t which the ordinary Chinaman feels for Christian-
ity and the foreigner can appreciate even this advantage.
Now. if this could he thoroughly followed up in every case,
and wholly turned to missionary account, it would be of
mucli greater value. Often, we feai-, through the over-
pressure of the medical staff, the service rendered is chiefly a
luofi'ssional one. and there is not time or workers sufficient
to follow every case to his or her house, and make these im-
l)ortant beginnings links in a thorough system of evangehsm ;
and so much is lost. The staff ought to be strong enough to
enable every medical missionary to give, at least, half his
time to evangelistic work. Where he is simply a successful
surgeon, and his record shows how many difficult operations
lie has performed in the year, and Ikhv much suffering and
mortality he has prevented, he had better remain at home
and practice his profession under more favorable circum-
stances than he can find in China. Medical missions have no
value save as an entering wedge for the Gospel, and as such
they have still, if properly directed and guarded, a real
utility in China, especially in the opening of new fields where
the prejudice against Christianity and foreigners is so great
that the ordinary missionary would not be permitted to enter
or reside.

IXDS.

hey are pre-
? them with
siouary, and
sage. Only
Terence and
)r Christian-
advantage.
L every case,
vould be of
li the over-
i is chiefly a
irs sufficient
ke these ini-
evangelisni ;
g enough to
ast, half his
a successful
t operations
iffering and
lin at home
ible circum-
ions liave no
and as such
•ded, a real
fields where
5 is so great
tted to enter

7///; .1//.V.SA).V./A")- OI'TI.OOK IS' CHfSA.

473

We have no sympathy with the objection which is some-
times nia<h^ by the friends of Divine healing, and which has
been sent to us by tlie last mail from Australia in a folio of
many j.ages, viz., that such missions are contrary to the
Scriptures and the principles of Divine healing. We do not see
this. Divine lu-aling is f..r God's c-hildren who know how to
trust Him. But medical missions are for poor heathen who
4o not know anything of the T.ord. an<l who must first be
brought to listen to the truth and learn t<. trust the Saviour
for themselves.

So far as method is concerned, we umst frankly say that
we have seen much good under all methods, and while, doubt-
less, all things being equal, the best results will be obtamed
under th,> best modes of working, yet much more depends
upon the spirit of the worker, an.l a man full of the Holy
Ghost and the hn-e of souls will be blessed with fruit under

any St'riptural system.

Undoubti^dly, the most valuable agency in China is the
native woikers themselves. They can reacli their country-
men as the foreigner never can. Especially in the strongly
anti-foreign provinces like Hunan and (^langsi we must rely
chietly upon them to introduce the Gospel. The great diffi-
culty "is to procure them. God is slowly raising up a small
army of native preac-bers who are of inestimable value.
Money cannot obtain them-indeed. it often spoils them. God
only can i)roduce an.l prepare them. Let us pray the Lord of
the harvest to send forth many of these laborers mto His
harvest.

fMI!

! :i

474 LARCKK OVTLOOXS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

Through all these various agencies, now having;;, perhaps,
1,500 foreign missionaries and twice as many natives, there
are in the whole of China several hundred centres of Gospel
influence and j (reaching, and about 4<»,000 members gathered
into the various native churches.

When we consider all the difficulties of the situation, this
18, as we have said, iimch, — very much. The points that have
been occupied represent great centres of work, and great pos-
sibilities of future expansion and great victories over almost
insuperable difficulties.

But when we compare even this with the yet iinoccupied
field, we shrink appalled from the spectacle of China's desti-
tution.

If we take even the provinces that are most fully occu-
pied, the yet neglected wastes are simply immense. Qnan-
tang is the oldest missionary field in China, and is ordinarily
regarded as a fairly evangelized province. And yet, within
five miles of Canton, we visited villages where a foreigner
was an absolute novelty, and Dr. Henry tells us in his volume
that if he had them he could place more than one hundred
missionaries along the lines that have been opened up by the
Presbyterians alone in that single province.

The province of Kiang-su. in Central China, is one of the
best occupied in the empire. It is the province in which the
great centres of Shanghai, Nanking, Su-chow, Hang-chow,
Yang-chow and Chin-Kiang are situated with their strong
missions. It is also one of the coast provinces, and not in
the interior at all. The groat Yangtse River runs through

JVDS.

tig, perhaps,
itives, there
!S of Gospel
^rs gathered

tuation, this
its that have
id great pos-
over almost

unoccupied
lina's desti-

fuUy occii-
ose. Quan-
s ordinarily

yet, within
a foreigner

I his volume
ne hundred
d up hy the

8 one of the

II which the
rlang-chow,
their strong

and not in
>ns throngrh

■n//-: .v/ss/OA-.i^'y ofr/.ooA- ix cnrsA.

475

it in one direction and the Grand Canal ,n anothe. And yet
n^issionaries who have been through the ^^^^^^^
ince during the past year, told us o vdlage afte -Hag. and
citv after city, and cities great and populous, too, that ha.l
: fd ne/e'r have had a single voice to teU the.. ..Jesu.
The great province of Ghanwhei is m the h(^art of China.
The great highway of national travel runs through its midst
T^:^ of acceL, lying on hoth sides .. the Yaiigts. and
not more than four hundred miles from the coast. It had a
population before the rebellion as large as France. It ha
!ow nerhaps twenty millions. In it there are several great
Tu^' dZ 'which'are capitals of districts, and there are
nearly sixty walled county towns or ''H'sien^' eities. as they
a e cllled, besides hundreds of great market towns and hcni-
sands -yes, tens of thousands- .>f populous villages and yet,
ut :; an this population and out of all tl-e ^^^'^^^^^^^^^^^^^
to-day less than ten separate points occupied in all tins prov
nee and if our Alliance missionaries are counted out, there
T'aW a dozen foreign missionaries, all told, among all

the^p tens of millions. .

And what shall we s..y of the „-eat interior pvovmce.
Hunan, with perhaps fifteen millions of inhabitants, has not
Tsing.; missionary. Kwei-ehow ami ^nnnan - the «.u h
west have just a few pioneer stations of *« Chma In
Cd Mission The same is true of Kansuh and Shensnn the
"est. And Quangsi, in the south, is yet v.rgnr so,l In
:S^hTna there 1 about ,,..>0 of these •■H's.en c,t,es o.
f unty towns, and each of then, represents a population o£

mmm

■ iiiHv iiMittteaif>a-« I -

476

LARGER 01 r LOOKS OS' MISSIONARY LANDS.

nearly a (luaitor of a inilliou souls. It is not too much to
say that proljably l,40(» of them are yet without a niissiou-
aiy. The <lestitution is, indeed. apj)aUing.

And the ditficulties are very great. Each new city that
is occupied re]»resent8 months and sometimes years of patient
tact, beUeving prayer and heroic hai'dship. As an angler
would catch a fish, so nnist the missionary catch, "with
guile," this unfiiendly race. First, the town must be visited,
perhaps again and again, by the evangelist, as he pioneers
and feels his way. Then a native worker nmst go for a time
and slowly win his way into the confidence of some of the
])eople. Then a house must, if possible, be rented, and often
this is imjwssible. The pm-chasing of land or building of a
house is out of the question for at least five or ten years. It
is a great thing if you can get a lease of a native house. And
when you do, you must not alter it so as to attract any atten-
tion, or you will cross some of their superstitious prejudices.
After you have moved in and settled down, it is quite possi-
ble you may be diiven out by an anti -foreign mob before a
month, and the man that rented you the house beaten by the
authorities for letting you in. Or, if they let you stay, it is
simply on sufferance. E^ ery dog on the street growls at you
as an offense. Every buffalo on the road snuffs at you as an
intruder. Every small boy is apt to call you a "foreign
devil." And you may feel highly complimented if, after two
years, the neighbors deign to nod to you on the street or bid
you good morning.

That is about the story of the opening of an ordinary

'DS.

much to
I rnission-

T city that
of patient
an angler
;h, ''with
be visited,
3 pioneers
for a time
me of the
and often
Iding of a
years. It
)use. And
any atten-
)rejudices.
uite possi-
b before a
ten by the
stay, it is
kvls at you
you as an
' ' foreign
after two
reet or bid

I ordinarv

THF. M/SSIO\.lKy OUTLOOK' /.V ClirNA. 477

Chinese town. And when you think of the fourteen hun-
dred municipal cities that are yet to be entered, and the more
than a million villages ytto be evangelized, it will be inam-
fest, we think, how real a task lies before the Church of Go<l
and how stirring the challenge that is summoning our faith
and courage to prove our God to the uttermost these last
years of the Century and the Dispensation.

What can be done to meet this need more effectually ?
1 Make the most of the existing centres and hues of
operation. They have cost much. Utilize them to the ut-
most Support every existing mission in China with all the
backing it can receive. If we could persuade a thousand mis-
sionaries to go to China, and a thousand people to support
them in connection with all the existing boards and agencies,
we would just as gladly do so as through our own. Only as
many missionaries can be used in China as there are open^
ings for, and when these openings have been already prepared
at great strategic points, man them, and man them to the
uttermost. The force at all the existing stations in China
might probably be doubled, and every station could, without
the least difficulty, take care of the duplicates and find su-
perb openings for them as soon as they are ready. Indeed
at one of the great mission centres in China, some of the old
missionaries of the other boards offered to take a number of
our young men and women and keep them for three years,
teaching them the methods of mission work and receiving
their help in many ways in which even a junior missionary
could assist. We wish we could reach the ear of the churches

*»J!i)l,'J);!'««."*l-,'M

tii

„, .,„„... ..a „.,..a wuh t.-e,„ to se„a « w„„u. ..^ at

„„«, t,. .-..info™ the lorn. "^ P-^-' ,^ -;„, „„„ „„„ared

^„ wish. ->»-^ •_, ;^ J:„ „t,Uo,«whKhth« China
ment<.»ui.|.lom...itth.M,.u,lm « ^^

''""f 4l"r a, ne.- agencies a,v concerned, and onr own

2. So «•" "' "*^'' /^ ^„„,e conditions peculiar to

r' ':hrsrc!w.;a itthoiLihiiityoenn-itiplyingthe

China, <"- «""^^ ^^„^.,. ,„„„tries. Wecannot send men
forces as rap.dly >« ' "' „„^ ^ ,«„„ o£ money

at will to any part of t hm. . " „„,t be

-"'"rf::":: d try :r::":,«t fro™ Uesai.

^'T nel A net min without the language cannot
ready opened. A .c« ^..^^ j,^^ ,^„.

"'^""'':/n::\::cri o, lanewandanti-foreigncity.

,,ist or an "P"---— --::::;. ^^^ iX and
prejudice, preach the (.ospu ^_^^ ^^_^^^

^,«, a while secure premises. " '*«;j ^,„.^,^ ^3

J. * Ua firt^t, centres and its expen^""^"
time to get its fitst centr ^ .^..^ion must neces-

::^7h:r::htgri:i.*x\he muUucationo.»pia.t

PS.

e hundred
1 the Chma
(ry |)art of
reinforce -
ini\y rnain-
,he work of
at it is not
or HiB dear

lid our own
I peculiar to
Itiplying the
tot send men
on of money
,vay must be
111 centres al-
;uage cixnnot
A-ith the lan-
.-foreign city.
I native evau-
j way, disarm
>ll books, and
mission some
I workers and
1 nmst neces-
tion of a plant

'/•///; ;J//.s.s/(^V./A')- OUTLOOK IN CHINA. 479

from a single root. The more centres it can have the better,
if they are sufficiently eonnected to secnr. united woi-kmg
and mutual support. Therefore, we hav. planted already m
China a nund.er of central stations in different sections, and
in each of these we have begun to scatter the workers ^^^
parties ..f two, to their mM>arate stations just as fast as they
lave the language and can obtain oiKunngs. In this ^v^ we
are preparing posts for new recruits, and after a while we
ZIZ. a doL>n <.r a score of centi.s, to each of which a
ittle band of reinforcements can go, and from which hey.
in their turn, can start new centres which shall, in their turn,
nudtiply yet more widely until all the field is covered.

In the province of Ghanwhei already there is room for
at least, a hundred such centres, and each of these should
have f om two to five missionaries. Wuchang, our latest
centre looks out to the south, the west and the north on
n ot than half a dozen great provinces, each of which needs
at least, one hundred centres, and three hundred men as fas
as the openings can be found and the men placed. Oui
Swedish friends in Northern Shansi hope to «i;;-d -e long
through Shansi and Kansuh, but the forty who have just
gone ai. as many as can be profitably located now, and as
?hey become established they will move forwai^ and prepare
the way for others. In Quangsi, in the south, a party o
half a dozen can be immediately utihzed, and as they plant
the soles of their feet upon the land, P-^^aps a dozen^^^^^^^^^
can join them, and they, in turn, can double until this
Tglited field shall be planted with a hundred points of

•

48o J.AKCKK OVII.OOKSO.-I MISSIO^AKY LAMPS.

light It is thu« that the w„rk nuist «o on i.. ( lii.u., by a
wise' proK., .>Bion, accrf.vating .s it «>•.,«», untU, ,„ a ej
year, then, n,,-! be - a^ly any lin.it to t ... nu.nber of
.Kencie, that may b,. .i, «rihute,I a..,l .•"M*)y«l-

Of course, the ai,n of all ..ur foreign aKenaen .« to ra.»e
• „,, an arn,y of native worke,. an.l train th,.,n to ,lo th.K work
themnelve,. Bnt this ,,roce,s is -"■"•'«''»' ;'''"' •;"',' V™
present generation of China is to be evangeh/..Hl ,t ,n«st 1«
Ey I'y foreign agency. Foreign . vangelism .« n.ore sue.
ceLl in China than in n.ost other fields. In In.ha very
Zy of the missionaries are chietly superintendents anU
train the natives to do n.ost of the ,„oneer work. Bntm
China the most successfnl „,ission,mes are »'-"-"
persistent evangelists. Men like Dr. Henry, of Cant«D
O if^th ..ohn, of Hankow, Dr. Corbett, of Si,antung, and
many mo., sioh well-known ,.a,.u.s, with all the.r g,eat ex-
Itive and litera.y ability, delight to go o„t a..,ong the ,«».
pie on long and perilous evangelistic tours and ,,r^»h the
Cl in their language fron. village to village a,„. house to
houL And we are glad to be able to say that he C toese
language is not nearly such a Je.icho as .t seemed. Ihl.gen

toe Ilmost any diligent and faithful student can do much
useful work within a year, and can do Bometh.ng ,n s.x
Znths. It is not half so difRolt as Japanese a.,d we judge
TrTt much harder than the languages of Ind,a ,n Burmah.
F.^egn children pick it ..p more quicklv than Enghsh. Ite
;Lb »re as simple a..d monc«yllab.c. ■, ■ .■'. charaae,«

la KlJfSSfflS^

„j,„e5«t-S.»i'^S=«-**'^^'~"-"-' ^

( hiiiji, by a

il, in a ft'vv

number of

iH Ik to raise
lo thiH work
, and if the
, it mxiBt ho
is nu»ro suc-
i India very
eudents, and
ork. But in
ccessful and

of Canton,
lantung, and
leir {^reat ex-
iiong the peo-
d preach the
1 and house to
t the Chinese
led. Diligent
vsonably short
b can do much
lething in six
, and we judge
ia or Burmah.
1 Enghsh. lis

jf'i characteiB

■nn: .^nssrox.ARy ocn.ooh' r.\' riirs'.i. 481

pictorial, giving a vivid and ocular image of the thing .h'tin.d
Of course, it tak.^ . ^xny years fo acpiire perfect :hien. y ami
accurate co.unnuul of the langu.g.. But no one need de-
spair of oven this within a re,.Ho,uihle time, and -. kn.Avev.n
young missionaries like Mr. Johnston an.l Mr. Stanley Smith,
who siieak it with won.lerful froed..rn and ix)WPr.

For our own work in e'hina, the innnediate if>eds that
have been pressing upon our heart and mind during these

busy months have been : "

1 A thorough organization and .ompetent superintend-
ence of the whole field an<l work. This, we are glad to say,
has been granted us in the good providence of God, and as
we leave the Eastern Hemisphere our good brother, Mr. Lela-
chenr, has already reached his post at Wuhu, ar-d, in eonfer-
ence ^ith our brethren there, is getting ready lor the great

campaign.

2 A judicious and comprehensive plan, provi- mg tor the
needs of our work for the next few years, and adapted to
reach the most needed of the neglected fields, and a-comphsh
the utmost possible for the evangelization of China durmg
the present generation, at least through the mean^ and re-
sources at our command. This, we trust, GckI has .lao been
directing us to do, and our forces are already being di tnbuted
along a number of concerted lines of operation, an<i accoTd-
ing to a prayerful and intelligent plan.

Z The distribution of our workers in as many iistmct
fiekte as can be judiciously opened. And this also ha. V.egun
aud within a month, even since we left China, .we ha e had

Wf-WMPgy

I.ARCr.K OUTLOOKS OX MfSX/ON.-IKr f.AfDS

the most encouraging .epovt. of o,«ning. that have been
foil ana are being occnpied in new and most important sta-

"""4 A n.issionary home where our new missionaries can at
once be received and cared for while they are Btudymg the
:„guage during the first six or twelve months nn , defim
openings can he found for them in special fields This, also is
in p"«ess. And we trust, before the close of the yearsuch a
hoL .ill be ready on the Yangtse at Wuhu, to be fohowed,
perhaps, by others, if need be, in other parts of the field.
'^ 6 i number of bauds of consecrated men ard women
but es,«cially men, to prepare for work in the mtenor of
Ch „a We do rrot feel, at present, that the time has come
to- much woman's work in connection with our work m
China except a small number of married women to go w.th
tte,r husbands, and a few such unmarried women as are
X and thoroughly fitted, and intelligent w.nmg for the
hardships and privations of pioneer work m the mtenor. % e
d* ant any woman to go to China mrless she knows
■ust what this means and chooses it uncompromismgly and
unreservedly by the Lord's own leadmg.

But we do want several companies of young men, men
of the highest calibre, men of gi-eat intelligence, much prac-
ticll w^om, fair education, deep piety, strong courage, real
eW dluM and such spiritual resources that they are not go-
:' to gSlonesle and unhappy when cut off h-om human
coCntship andsympathy. Moreover, they should bemon
^Ivtely caSed to the work, and so utterly given up to.t.

.AMDS

lat have been
important sta-

ionaries can at
5 studying the
i, until definite
s. This, also, is
the year such a
to be followed,
)f the field,
en ard women,
the interior of
time has come
h our work in
men to go with
women as are
willing for the
ihe interior. We
iiless she knows
promisingly and

y^oung men, men
mce, much prac-
)ng courage, real
they are not go-
off from human
ley should be men
ly given up to it.

THl. MISSIOSARY OUTLOOK IX CHINA.

483

that they are wilhng to abandon all thought of marriage, and
go out to a real pioneer soldier life for at loast four or five
years, until they have cut their way through all their early
difficulties and won a permanent station and home where, if
the Lord leads them, they may then begin to think of a more
settled home-life and work. We want half a dozen such
men for Quangsi, in the south ; a dozen, at least, for Central
China ; and half a dozen for Wuchang and Western China
besides others for Thibet and Northern China. Only God
can give these workers. Let us pray the Lord of the Harvest

to send them. ,,. t. , 1

6 We need a few reinforcements for Miss Duow s work
in Peking, but these are already arranged for, we believe.

7 We hope to be able to send more Swedish missionaries
as soon as the present large party in Shansi shall have become
properly disposed of, and estabhshed in their work, so that
others can take their places or join them in their work.

8 And wfc need a few married couples, at certain points,
to form the heads of homes, and take charge of necessary
executive departments of the work.

9 We greatly need native helpers. These are difficult
to obtain, and have usually to be raised up out of our own
work God has given us a few. Let us ask Him for many
more and for the wisdom needed to provide for the traimng
of this most essential class of helpers. We shall soon need,
doubtless, a training school for native evangelists.

10 Above all, we need the working of His mighty Prov-
idence* and the power of Hi. Holy Spirit. Nothing can be

aw ^wiu-M Mig WB*' — "

■««!?!Sektw*ysy'^

■Bippmii'W""

! ' I

,84 LAKCr.R OITI.OOKS O.V MISSW.V.IKY LANDS.

done in China without On,!. The work is transcendently
difficult and n,ust he all Divine. For this reason we ha™
mXr class of missionaries in China such as we have found,
Tot: Lme degree, in no other «eld ; n,en and --n^d-^ y
conscious, as a ml.., of their utter ^^^^^'^^l' T^f^^^l
us pray for them, let us pray for our own breth.en uncea.
Lly that they may be strong in the Ix>rd and the power "
Z might, for they wrestle not against flesh and blood but
Slinst principalities and powers, against the rulers of the
rrls'of this world ; against spiritual wicke.lness m hjgl
nlaces " Put on, therefore, the whole armor of God that
ylTay be able to withstand in the evil day and havmg
LTall to stand. . . . Praying always wth all praye
^d supplication in the spirit, and with a" pe.-ver»c» fo.
Ssainte" . . that all utterance may be given them to
^reir mouths boldly for the Gospel for which they are
ambassadors in bonds.

^'-liL

riNDS.

mscendently
son we have
5 have found,
romen deeply
on God. Let
;hren unceas-
the power of
nd blood, but
rulers of the
idness in high
of God, that
, and having
ith all prayer
rseverance for
given them to
k^hich they are

XXVI.

FIRST GLIMPSES OF JAPAN.

WE had scarcely got out of the Yau^•tse when we no-
ticed the extraordinary speed at which the steamer
was going. Every fibre fairly quivered with tl^e
strain of her tremendous engines. All that day and the next
s c flirly Hew over the sea of Japan, until the spray dashed
^hc tairiy n^ slackened her pace

in fine ram over our taceb, ana sne ue

until at svu.set. the next night, we saw before us the high
rocks that guard the entrance to the ^^-'•^^«^-^^^^;2^^;^

We soon learned the cause. We were flyn.g fro m a t) -
phoon,one of those tremendous cyclones that strike the east-
er "L in summer like a lightning breath, and m an mstant
Lto nbbons the stoutest sail, and strong enough to enable
he vessel to sail and steer by the bare mast, when even tha
not torn away by the terrihc gale. Even the strongest
lamship has all she can do even to hold her course m the
te^h of the tvphoon. A friend of ours was caught m one
1 summer, h! one of the great ships of the French Mail Lme
rurfmest/perhap., in the East. For three days he says
they were all locked down stairs, while the great slnp was
hterally lifted up and dashed down again -f^g^';- ^.^^^ f
plavthing in the grasp of a giant, untd it would seem as if it

4^5

486

LARGER OUTLOOKS OX MISSIONARY LANDS.

must be pounded to pieces, and at the eud of the storm they
found that they had hardly moved a mile on their course

And so it was a little exciting to know that a telegram
had come to Shanghai that a typhoon had just left the for-
mer port that day, travelling northward, and that we might
get out of its course by swiftly speeding across the line of its
march before it reached us. We saw no sign of its commg
but we knew that these visitors come without notice, and
that the sky, this moment bright and clear, might the very
next be dark with the dreadful hurricane.

But we quietly trusted and prayed, and the next night
as we entered the harbor of Nagasaki, we knew that through
God's goodness we had escaped it. The third day, as we sailed
out of that harbor and rounded the coast to enter the Inland
Sea, we were caught in its tail, and the slight shaking we got
gave us a very faint idea of what its clutches would have

^''' These tremendous storms usually start at the Philippine
Islands, and travelling in a narrow course with a revolving
spiral motion, sweep on to Hong Kong and then up the Chi-
nese coast, usually passing out to sea a little distance above
Shanghai Thev mow a swath of desolation on land and sea,
and many of th; hapless wrecks they leave are never known.
The harbor of Nagasaki is said to be the prettiest m the
Fast We do not consider it as fine as Hong Kong, which
still remains, in our judgment, unapproached if not unap.
proachable for picturesque grandeur. ,u,,„„h

But the picture is exceedingly fine. You enter through

FIRST c;Lnrps/:s oi-japax.

487

INDS.

a storm they
ir course.
it a telegram
left the for-
lat we might
Lhe line of its
if its coming,
t notice, and
light the very

te next night,
' that through
y, as we sailed
ter the Inland
baking we got
}s would have

the Phihppine
th a revolving
len up the Chi-
distance above
n land and sea,
3 never known,
prettiest in the
ig Kong, which
id if not unap-

u enter through

ure, hke a Scotch Uke ^ ^^ ^,, „„,,,,„„d.

The 1" effeiive angles, by some pvetty Ughthou^e or hand-

NAGASAKI.

1 of +Ho ViPfld of the little harbor,
the native uty, w J ^ handsome bungalows, and

green look like carvmgs and chasmgs on tne
frame of the mirror that flashes below.

ji^^i,w-"''i)riii ' n' wr^

48«

L.-IPCFP orTLOOKS oy MrSSIOXARY LAXDS.

\mong these hillB are the rocks where, more than two
hundred years ago, the Martyr Christians of Japan wei-e

liurled to death. ,

In these waters, too, was found that wonderful copy of

the Bible, a quarter of a century ago, that led a whole vdlage

to Christ, and formed one of the beautiful providential Imk.

in the oi.ening of niodern missions in Japan

Monday morning we began coaling, and we had a good
opportunity to study native character. The ^V^^- ^^^^
up alongside, and a great crowd of boys and gn-^s unloaded
these into the steamer. It was a curious sight to see those
long chains of mere girls, as they seemed, standing one above
another up the ladders on the sides of the ship a..d dow to
the holds of the coal barges, passing m and out the full and
eniptv baskets, with songs and shouts of merriment. \\ hat
a little people, and what a joyous and cheerful people they

""'^ A "riksha" ride through Nagasaki showed us the great
Buddhist temple with its silly priests and performances, and
V.retty stores and streets, so clean and so different from the
nithy scenes we had just left in China.

In the Afternoon we sailed out again, and after a little
tumbling in the open sea, we entered, at length, the beauti-
ful "Inland Sea," through which the rest of our voyage t«

Kobe passed.

The "Inland Sea" is the jewel of Japan. It has been
compared to English, Swiss and Scottish lakes, and our own
-Thousand Isles" of the St. Lawrence, or Lake George and

r-IRST CI./MPSES OF JAPAK.

489

3 than two
fai)au were

•ful copy of
hole village
lential links

had a good
liaiges came
rls unloaded
to see those
ig one above
and down to
, the full and
iient. What
1 people they

I us the great
rniances, and
lent from the

a after a little
,h, the heauti-
our voyage to

It has been
, and our own
ke Geox-ge and

TEMPLE OF BUDDHA, NAGASAKI

its isle-adovned bosoni. It is a sea of islands much larger
than any of these expaiisos, and combining many elements
of interest thev lack. It is about three hundred miles long,
and varies in width from five to fifty miles.

A sheet of light green water, at least three hundred
miles long inside the ocean breakwaters, its surface as
rmt>th as glass, save when its fair face dimples at the touch

490 i.^/^^^^ orTLOOA-s ox .//.vv/oav/a'>- l.lxds.

t Hu Umoni dotted with innuiner-

able .sluiuls ">" S- y',;^ '^ ' ,„„, „„„„, »„„„ a tVw n,iU«
and low, corneal a»^ '» ; ^ «,,^ „„ ,,,a,„t „„,, Vautiful •.
and son.o '^ ^'^'^ /''',,'''„.,„, „£ Ught grey simd to ligl.t

uptheu daik ^ue ^^^^ ^^^^^.^ ^^^^^ ^^,^^^ j^^^

into a ^^-";^-^^/"^;!°Jj,i^ islandB

jewels cut by gigantic hands in many . .,,„^^,^.,gp,i ^itli

iove^a with patches 0.. la... r«^

menaced '>-"^^;'^ jtjet^^ village nestling hy the
green and »'";;;;, ,ig^,„„„,, with its snow white
«ea ; here and the.. ^ P ^"^ ^ ^ ,,„„« ,„,Uy islet ; here

tower and w.i.d.ng sta... """"""^ .„„^ a heautiful

and thereaflshin. ^"^'^ZZ^Z:^^^"^'^ -Hh
r^'^TiXlf e::r .' l-Tlnd „ers„eetive new a,.d
tays »'\'" ^';. n,',' hU a ga.,len-everyMcagen»
strangely heant.tul ■^■"^'y „ ,„,^^,„, s,a.-

anOrtarL.e.^isthe~nd^-^^

and la,.ds elevated into ™>»"ta...s -.n la^ .at ^ .

Lawrence widened into a ^^^^^ ^ a .ine-clad sho-es

banks of the H-'-" -;;';';; '^X^.™'-'^ »'"^ --

of the Rhine c, ^M-' ;,:^^ ' ,l„uf as Wi,.der„.ere or

s:::::— "^tLtsU^co...^^^^
-•--sr=:is:--u:::vnithen..

^^^Wfi'^JOt^'^

:ds.

I innuiner-
iliuulrt high
I few iniU'tf

beautiful *,
iinl to hght
tht'ir fronts
ey look like
118 -, islands
persed with
i „f lij^hter
tling by tlio

snow white
T islet ; here
, a beau tif til
ulfutt'd with
ve nev^ and
ry isle a gem
mdSea/'
er and set in
li their shores
m-s of the St.
It is the high
le-dad shores
anels and cir-
rindermere or

or Maggion;.
ery charm as
\ hold them all

FIRST aLi.-irrslis of jAr.w.

491

nut together, with the Tlu.usand Isles and Lake George
tlvtn n We sailed through it for thirty hours, and our
on yU was that nua-h of its lovehness -- l-t -^^e
veil of mist and clouds that rested upon M. But it was
;:etty enough to enable us to veali.e what .t nmst ho unde.
a brilliant sun, and a clear, transparent sky.

i;:^^4r*^S^

KOBE-

Tuesauy night toma "» ''""»« '"'" t**" '''"■''"'' "' '^°'*'
a„.., „e.xt moving, our good fnend Mr. GuUok c.me ou
board early and took us ashore to breakfast at Mrs. BalUid ,
peasant missionary hon.e, just outside the town, under tho

'"■^lotlsilhandson.o ci.y of ....>,"00 inhahitants, and

mmmm.

^.^^^^^^^^tge^'WWF^^T,^:

492 /-tAv-v-A' orn.oo^-s ox >v/ .fOX-U-y i.axos.
the Becona ..poH in Japan, .on.pHin. -ry Jauly^tl.
Yokohan^afo.. the luvg. shippm, trade o ^^-^ '^^ J ^^
• 1 ia Tt is tiuelv Bituate.1 in an niegular frame ot lufca
iBlauds It I. f "•^ y '^ ; ^,, ,,.,i, ,,„„„itH with terraced

whi.h:u-.. |n'.-»l..-.' "? J='2'- " lil. a pointed rnlar. But

^ATi^'

' . 1

•^ t.

i.4a#w|

THE OREAT PINE TREE, JAPAN.

tbe pine t,ve ..£ Japan, eithe,- bom natural habit or fiomlong
tr^in ng, i» a spveadins ti«, giving low, and dwarf shaped,
often nt ove' twenty feet high, and oxtendn,g U. w,de
trchos out ou evevy side with thick and •"— "'- ^
often more than fifty or even a hundred feet. I'"''"!' "»;«
i, one groat pine in Japan nearly twee as bmad a. he
;:l Banyan at Calcutta, whose wide extended branches

■ "^^s^»^m!^?SSS3h

iron Avith

of higli

tiniaced

ilinr trees

and per

lar. But

FIRST <;/./.yrs/:s o/' j.iP.-ty-

493

r from long
arf shaped,
ig its wide
iant foliage,
ideed, there
•oad as the
led branches

eo.cra.pa.-e of hu„,.ml« of f.^t i" ,lm„>..t...-, an,l ar. .«,-
oorted by scores of artirtnul ]»oHts.

•"' TL'efTect of the.e lot.,., fe^ U y-y «-• -^^ .

green tints of tho hill™!-" ..■.• ".".■- vano,! th.u. -

noticed anywhere else. . nuj^a and

Mr,. Ballanl wa» fon,«,ly a n,isK,ona.T n> Ch na, and

has -v most intulligunt and .'amest missionary «1> mt. H"

horn; i-teat convenience to travelling misaionane,, ami a

real centre of Christian hfe and love.

We went to the cemetery dxuing the day, and found the

wewennut f^Hu. Kiflt Or WihiamOvHHidy,

CTaveofourfirstmi8SionaiTtotheh..i8t,iM ;,.„< five

^^Ilaid down his hfe at Kobe, on his way to Chuuv, just five

t'Got nf died of --".-.'•—::;:: 'xCas

,o„me, across t- -i- -,c e — J^ ^^^ ,^

'-°«.'-"e:r:nX:*.^b;r:ni™wn nana, l».l
bloommg «'« ■*;/'"'^;'''"^ vvrehope some of onr friends
rrn^rnr.r-nlJotKer .nely ... o.

^';r.:t'":.n>.o«se near .y ^ purcW a «^

494 A'^AT/TTA' OUTLOOK'S OX Af/SS/OX.IA-)' LANDS.

vlantH, una hu.l the.n plant.-l over hi« lu-ad u.id foet. They
;,re pretty evergreens, and they will continue to speak of
the love that is keeping his memory green by following up
Lis laborn for the worLVs evangelization. Couhl he see he
.ighty misHionaries to China and J apan that have followed m
his train, he would n..t think that his life had been wasted or

his death in vain.

It was very ri<li(^ulous to notice the way the Japanese
gardener acted. We had often hea.d that the Japanese pec.
pie were in the habit of laughing at funerals, but tins fellow
ust laughed and laughed until it was simply absurd and em-
Wassing. He laughed when we asked him the pnce of the
flowers, and he laughed when he planted them and he
laughed when we paid hhn ; and, indeed, he laughed so much
that we could hardly get him to do anything else but laugh
We suppose he was trying to make us feel cheerful and tha
he was simply expressing his idea of sympathy -^ comfo
in affliction He was evidently a tramed laugher, but he
"uif^verdid his business this time, and his conduct seemed

"^"'^Ourtrst missionary meeting in Japan was with our
Swedish friends, who can.e out to Japan about two years
ago from the Scandinavian churches of America, through

the efforts of Mr. Franson.

There were eighteen of them assembled at Kobe, holding
a conference about their work in Japan, and they received
us very affectionately in their little upper room, and told us
the story of their work since coming to Japan, while we, m

8 with our
b two years
ica, through

obe, holding
ley received
, and told us
while we, in

ot. They
speak of
lowing lip
le Boe tho
olio wed in
. wasted or

I Japanese
anese peo-
thiH fellow
id and em-
)rice of the
m, and he
ed so much
hut laugh,
il, and that
nd comfort
her, but he
uct seemed

SiiSSSffltf^S^'?'

BRONZE IMAGE OF KURODANI, KIOTO.

'-■^|v.

*mm-'-

riRsr (.rjMPSics or j a pas'.

495

turn, gave them some words of encouragement, andtold them
of their brethren whom we liad met along the way as told tis
at home.

Their leader, Mr. Seaholm, had succeeded Dr. Ludlow in
the Seaman's Mission at Kobe, for a while, and at the time
applied to us to be received as a missionary of the Alliance,
but we hesitated to receive him simply because we doubted
the expediency of continuing that work under the Alliance.
These Scandinavians are good and true men and women, and
are fairly started in a good work in Japan. They have had
some heavy trials. Their allowance for support and work is
not sufficient, and they are re Uy crami)ed for means. Japan
is a very different country from China, and v/hile two hun-
dred dollars in gold is ample for the support of a Scandinavian
missionary in Northern China, it is not more than half enough
in any part of Japan and will not go half as far.

They have also had some severe sickness, and one of
their ladies died of smallpox in Tokio, under distressing cir-
cumstances, having nobly offered to nurse another mission-
ary who had the disease, and paying her own life as the
costly sacrifice.

We wish their Scandinavian friends would do a little
more for these brave and worthy laborers. We believe, as
our readers know, in economical missions, but we do not
mean by this a scale of support which will involve hardship,
privation and inabiUty to secure proper buildings, chapels,
etc. In countries like India and China, the rates which we
have found sufficient for plain and comfortable living are

•» i!J4|!w;»'W!t«» W|IMaM^l l U I |M,>tlU . -:

miii^

liM

496 LARCKR OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

equivalent to more than twice as much in Japan. We are
sure that there is much room, even in Japan, for an example
of missionary economy and simplicity of living, but it must
not he pushed to an extreme which will cramp and cripple
the woi-kers and drive them into secular teaching in order to

eke out a living.

We met our Scandinavian fiiends again at Kyoto and
Tokio, and were glad to learn that already their work had
begun to bear fruit. They are distributed in about ten cen-
tres, and, during the past year, they have had over twenty
conversions in their various stations.

It is not necessary in Japan to wait until one has ac-
quired the language before beginning work, but through a
good interpreter a missionary may do much useful work
from the very beginning. During our short visit to Japan
we addressed more than a dozen native audiences, and, al-
though it was, of course, far less satisfactory than the direct
contact of the vernacular, yet it became much more «asf
and effective than we had found it in India or China. There
are some missionaries that have never acquired the language,
but prefer to use an interpreter ; but this is much less com-
mon than we had heard, and we are prepared to deny the
statement which we have read in a high authority recentty
published on Japan misMons, to the effect that there are ojdf
about a dozen missicmaries in the countiy that speak Japan-
ese feiently, and use it ordinarily in their work. Und<ml»»-
edly it i» tiie most difficult of the oriental languages to »c-
(jerire perfectly, and there are con*paratifvely few who ea&

Ff/fST (./.IMPSKS OF JAP.I.y.

497

hWDS.

u. "We are

an example

but it must

and <;iipple

in order to

1 Kyoto and
ir work had
out ten cen-
over twefity

one has ac-
it through a
useful work
sit to Japan
nces, and, al-
an the direct
h more easf
hina. There
;he language,
ich less eom-
t to deny the
[)rity recentty
;here are onJy
speak Japftn-
k. UndooM-
guages to ac-
few who

speak it like an educated native. But the great nuijority of
the missionaries learn it and use it effectively, and no one
who expects to do permanent work sliould think of settling
down to the roundabout and indirect conununication to whitb
one is limited through an interpreter, or "interrui)toi." as
Joseph Cook so happily called him.

In the afternoon we addressed a meeting of the mission-
aries in the Southern Methodist chapel, and afterwards had
some interesting and valuable conversation with several of
them, and learned nmch of the present condition of mission
work in this section of Japan. The American Board and the
Southern Methodists have the principal work in Kobe. The
native churches in this section of Japan, especially in connec-
tion with the American Board, have become quite strong and
independent, and are beginning to detach themselves from
the leading strings of the mother church and prepare to stand
alone. Indeed, they have given some very broad hints al-
ready that they think the time has come when the Ameri-
can churches sliould give them the money and let them do
and direct the work . To a great extent this has already been
done, and more than one American missionary told us that
he was really preparing for the not far-distant time when
they would all be expected to take their leave and resign the
work to the native churches exclusively.

We visited the large educational work of the American
Board, and found that many of theii- workers in Japan were
engaged in this class of work. Their schools in Kobe are
wholly for giris and seem to be very efficient and well sus-

jjWM*tJ»-Ai

498 T.ANcr.K orri.ooKs ox MfssrosAh') lands.

taiurd. TIh'v told us tliat the Japanese national schools only
gave girls a ])i-imaiy education, and that higher female edu-
cation had to he sui>i)lied hy foreign niissior. schools. They
said the giils, were very hright. and really had to he held hack
from study. In comiection M'ith this school a handsome and
elahorate science hall was going up. which was to be fur-
nished with superior laboratories and museum. All this was
very lovely, and the missionaries who kindly showed us
through the buildings were most gifted and sincere Christian
workers, and enthusiastic in their work ; but we could not
help feeling that the connection with the evangehzation of
the world, and with C'hrist':^ last conmiission, was somewhat
indirect and remote, and that it did not very materially differ
from high school work at home. We, at least, should not
feel at lilierty to invest missionary funds in such beautiful
mstitutions as this, while the great masses and most of the
lower classes of Japanese are yet unsaved.

We have too much love for even the most indirect effort
to evangelize the world, and too tender a regard for the be-
loved missionaries we met abroad to be critical or severe, but
we were pained to see so very nmch educational w ork in
Japan engrossing the strength and time of foreigners whom
the Loid could so well employ in direct missionary work.

We heard of our dear friends. Dr. and Mrs. Ludlow, who
had spent two or three years in Kobe, in connection with the
Alliance, and, of course, we found that they had left a deep
imi)ression by their Christian character and life on the com-
munity. But we found no permanent lesults from their for-

tNDS.

schools only
female edu-
lools. They
be hold back
mdsonie and
IS to be fur-
All this was
' showed us
jre Christian
;e could not
gelization of
IS somewhat
ierially differ
;, should not
ch beautiful
most of the

idirect effort
■d for the be-
r severe, but
nal AN ork in
^neis whom
try work.
Ludlow, who
tion with the
id left a deep
> on the com-
oni their for-

j-VA'ST ^/./.^//'^/•'.v <v'y. //'./A'.

499

eigu missionary work. Their time had been wholly given to
work among foreign sailers, in which they were nuich
blessed, but they bad not even learned the .Japanese language
<.r established any permanent work among th«- natives. And
even the s.«anum's work which ihey carried on so rarnestly
has now passed into the bands of the American Episcopalians,
liibappily nuuh of our work in Japan has been allowed to
inn in channels aside from direct evangelism, and we are
only now getting down to our proper work for the preaching
of the Gospel to the heathen in the intericjr. W(; trust our
l)eople will never again let anything divert them from this
great trust. All else must be transitory and unsatisfactory.
This only is our calling and mission as an Alliance, and in
this only can we have Gcxl's full and pei-fect blessing. Dr.
Eudlow worked hard and faithfully in bis special line, and
sufl'ered very seriously in bis health through the elTects of
the climate and his arduous labois, and we are glad to learn,
since his r«'tnrn to America, is steadily recovering.

On the following day we had the peculiai- pleasure of
visiting an interior town and seeing a type of Japanese work
which filled us with peculiar encouragement. It was a visit
to the Orphanage of Mr. Ishii at Okyama. This city is situ-
ated on the Inland Sea, about two hundred miles west of
Kobe, and is the centre, also, of an excellent and successful
mission of the American Board, under the charge of Rev. Mr.
Pettee, a warm friend of Mr. Ishii, and the author of a brief
biography of him. Mr. Isbii is a very remarkable man, and
the type of a new class (.f workers whom we trust God is

LARCKR Orri.OOKS ON MISSIOXARY LANDS.

about t(, raise up in this extraordinary land, as a spiritual
balance wheel, amid the extreme intellectual a.-tivity ot tlm

new age. , . . ^i

He is still a youuK man, only about thirty, but has the
quiet gravity and poise of a nuich .>lder man. He has learned
to wait on the Lord, and suffer in silence, and he knows the
great secret of listening to His voice and trusting His word.
He has been called the (4eorge MuUer of Japan, and his work
has beer inspired to a great degree by the example and testi-
mony of that venerable patriarch of faith. A few years ago
Mr MuUer visited Japan, and the story of his work had a
powerful influence in the heart of Mr. Ishii, who, at the time,
was about to study medicine and become a physician. He
was led to adopt a helpless child, and so to begin his great
life-work. He has no less than two hundred and seventy five
children under his care, fifty of whom are at another town -
Nagoya- and so far they all have been cared for by the Lord
without any direct human dependence.

He has various industrial departments in connection with
the school, and is multiplying them as fast as the means will
allow He has a barber shop run by the l>oys, which makes
a little money daily for the Orphanage. He has a printing
establishment which turns out good work, of which we have
some specimens. He has others learning to gin and spm and
weave cotton, and if he had a few hundred dollars more he
could purcbase a lot of spinning wheels and put a number
more to work profitably. Everything is most simple and eco-
nomical, and all the affairs of the Orphanage are open as the

,V-).V.VAvVtfi^l|l>S-^W^fe*ta iJl

a spiritual
ivity of tlic

but has tlu^
has learned
i knows the
g His word.
11(1 his work
le and testi-
w years ag( >
work had a
at the time,
^sician. He
;in his great
seventy five
»ther town —
by the Lord

nection with
e means will
k\'hich makes
IS a printing
liich we have
and spin and
liars more he
ut a number
n])le and eco-
e open as the

/■VA'ST (.LfMl'SF.S OF JAPAN.

501

day. With great simplicity lit^ told the little ones, the day
we were there, that they had begun the day with two yen,
and the expenses had been nineteen yen, and just eighteen
yen had come in, so they had just one yen to begin another
day, and so they all were taught to look to the Lord together
for their daily bread. Ho came over to see us the following
week at Nagoya, and we had a long interview and became
very deeply attached to the simple-hearted child-like man of
God. He accM.pted most fully all the truths of the Fourfold
Gospel, and told us that we should some day hear more fully
from him, if God sj>ared us both, when he should have tried
and proved more fully these precious truths. He told us,
with great simplicity, that he had been hindered for a day in
coming to visit us at Nagoya, by the want of means, but the
next day a man called and brought him eight yen, saying
that he waked in the night dreaming that Mr. Ishii needed
eight yen and was in distress, and in the morning he obtained
exactly this sum and brought it to him, and it proved to be
the very sum he needed. This good man took a great hold
of our heart, and we believe God is going to use him more
than any other agency in Japan to teach His people true piety,
and to begin through the Spirit of the Lord, and through the
native people themselves, a spiritual and missionary move-
ment which will reach all Japan with the true Gospel in its
simple apostolic power. His young wife is in full sympathy
with him, and his helpers, numbering twenty, aie all volun-
teers, giving their time without compensation and in simple
dependence upon God for all their needs. They all seem to

•UPBBSW^

wmmmmisaai

j)Oa

LARGER OlfTLOOk-S OX MrsS/OXARY LANDS.

be men and women of like mind with himself. Mr. Ishii has
received into his branch Orphanage at Nagoya the little
orphans wliom Miss Kinney had gathered as the nu(;leus of
an Orphanage work in connection with the Alliance, and
we had the pleasure of visiting them a few days later at the
Home. Miss Howard very wisely handed them over to Mr.
Ishii, as our Alliance is not called to this kind of work directly,
and Mr. Ishii is much hotter able to care for it.

We believe that many of our people will be led to take a
personal interest in the work of this beloved brother, and to
cheer him in his work of faith and labor of love, which is an
object lesson for Japan of much more value than even its
direct benefit to the many he'.|>ers or plans under his care.

Our journey to Okyania, as also, later, to other pomts,
was rendered very pleasant, and saved us from nnich incon-
venience by the kindness of our good friends, Dr. and Mrs.
Gulick, of Kyoto, who met us at Kobe and made most of
the arrangements for our rapid visit to Japan.

These dear friends have since undertaken the oversight
of our missionary work in Japan, and we trust, in coming
days, will become much better known to all our readers and
friends. Dr. Gulick belongs to an honored missionary family,
which has still several members in the mission field. Much
of his life was spent in the Sandwich Islands. For many
years he has resided in Japan, and has been chiefly engage.l
as a professor in the government schools. He has just re-
signed his position in the principal government college at
Kyoto, and will now give his life exclusively to missionary

[•. Ishii has
, tho littlo
nucleus of
iau(e, and
later at the
Dver to Mr.
rk directly,

'd to take a
her, and to
which is an
an oven its
his care,
ther points,
nuch incon-
»r. and Mrs.
ide most of

F/J^sr cLr.\fi's/:s orj.ir.i.y.

503

work. He is widely known in Japan, and is univ«.isally re-
spected and heloved as a humhle and devot.Ml Christian
worker, and a leader in every earnest spiritual nu.venient.
We trust his experience and high Christian (jualities will
make him a groat blessing to the work, and that his dear
wife may 1)0 richly hlessed and strengthene.l f<.r her fellow-
ship of service.

le oversight
i, in coming
readers and
nary family,
field. Much
For many
efly engaged
has jubt re-
lit college at
1 missionary

XXVII.

ACROSS JAPAN BY RAIL.

TIIKRK ate already several thousuud iniU-H of railway in
Japan, opening tip almost every part of the country
by oasy conununication. The longest and most un^
portant of these lines runs from Kobe to Yokohama and
Tokio. a distance of three hundn-d and sixty miles.

First, we had to secu.e passports at the consul s office,
l^nnitting us to travel in the interior beyond the Treaty
ports -for scientific <.bservation or the beneht of our
health •• We did not have to answer any questions on these
1 or we might have been embarrassed. Our passports
had verv kindly been secured for us, and we accepted them
without denmr. We suppose, had we been aj-^^-^^' T
rid have said, with Miss Kinney, that it was for the ben ftt
f ,.ur health to obey the Lord and go -^-e ^e s..t u.
The truth is, as we learned from the authonties the leal
!^i and interest of these passports is to prevent foreignex.
' oing into the interior to trade, and so long as tins is honest-
iv avoided, the spirit of the Treaty is not infnnged
' We w^re sm^ised to find how much easier it is than we
had supposed, to obtain passports, not only to visit but also
Tveside in the interior, and that by a little tact every por-
504

.till

: railway in
;he country
lid moat ini-
[ohama and

nsul'H office,
1 the Treaty
letit of our
ions on these
iir passports
cepted them
lestioned, we
or the benefit
; He sent us.
ties, the real
ent foreignei-8
this is honest-
ged.

L- it is than we

visit but also

act every por-

I EillK!
ii

i If

i^i

■•jsi&ia"

.icffOs.sj.^r.i.v ity hwii.

505

tion of tho interior nmy be viHited and .'vaiiKclizod ; h.kI, in-
dml, there in Hcarcely a i)roviii(e whrie niiHsioiiaries are not
now to he fnnnd, and whrre flourishing^ Htations are not

growing np.

0»ir Hrst stop was at Osaka, the second city in Japan ni
population, and the fhst in real wealth and commercial im-
portance. It has a population of half a million, and it hears
every indication of wealth and influence. We tried to count
its lofty smoke sta<;ks as we entered, hut tlu-y numhered hun-
dreds. Its hridges are said to exceed l,4.M», and they are very
substantial and pretty, leading across the various branches
of the rivers that intersect the town, almost hke anotluT
Venice. The manufactures of Osaka are very extensive, and,
its trade draws constant visit.n-s from every section of the
empire. Its commercial nniseum is a vast and imposmg
structure, containing samples of its various wares, and not
unworthy of Glasgow or Liverpool.

We were kindly entertained by the Kev. Mr. Gulick, of
the American Board, and found a n)eeting arranged for us in
the largest nativ- . unrh, Rev. T.^a Gowa, past.)r, Avhere we
were expect. o preach to a native audience with the pastor
asinterpivter. Thisgentlemanisoneof theleading ministers
of the native chuich of Japan, and a very goo.l sample of an
educated Christian native. He has a strong physique for a
Japanese, and an expression of rugged force and strong exec-
utive ability. His head is round and massive ; his beard
thick and strong ; his shoulders broad and powerful ; his eye
keen and his manner crisp and full of decision and energy.

^.SP' J'T^'^T'^'^rt

5o6 l.ARCr.R OUTLOOKS ox .V/SS/ON.-iRV LANnS.

He impressed us as a man more keenly intellectual than
deeply spiritual. He is said to be the best interpreter in
Japan. When Joseph Cook was here he translated his
lectures for him, and Avas able to reproduce whole para-
graphs, five or ten minutes long, without omitting -n- muti-
lating a shade of thought.

He is the leading spirit of the Kumai churches which
have grown u]» out of the missionary work of the American
Board, and are pressing so strongly for an independent native
church. The first part of the meeting was devotional, and
he led it by the aid of a little hell, keeping time as sharply
as Mr. Moody would have done.

We spoke for about half an hour, and he interpreted for
us with great facility. We notiiXHl that nobody in the audi- .
ence looked at us, but all gazed on the flo<n' or in the empty
space, and we would have thought that they were utterly
uninterested in what we said had we not been told that it is
not etiquette in Japan to look at a speaker, or show the
slightest emotion or interest, but good form recpiin^s one to ,
keep a blank face devoid of all feeling. We felt like explod-
ing all their good form and getting them either t(j laugh or
cry, or say, "Hallelujah," or something, and we succeeded
once or twice, before we left Japan, in seeing some imjiression
made on these set, studied faces of stone.

Mr. Mya Gowa told us that there were fifteen native con-
gregations in Osaka, and that his own church was entirely
self-supporting, paying him his salaiy, and, indeed, carrying
on some missionary work besides.

NDS.

ctvial than
erpreter in
islnted his
Iiolo para-
g '»!• muti-

?\\es which
3 Aint^rican
[lent native
•tional, and
as sharply

'vpreted for
li the audi- .
the empty
^ere utterly
i that it is
ir show the
lires one to,
like explod-
t<j laugh or

> succeeded

> impression

native con-
ras entii'ely
?d, carrying

.ICROSSJAP.I.y nv RAIL.

507

We also had the privilege ot meeting a numher of the
EugUsh and American missionarifs at Osaka and speaking a
few spiritual words about the Holy Ghost, tlie one theme on
which we have almost always spoken abroad. There is a
very pleasant Foreign Quarter in Osaka, wliere the mission-
aries reside, and several of the great societies are well repre
sented, especially in the American Board, the Northern and
Cumberland Presbyterians and the Baptists, and the English
Church Missionary Society. We were especially delighted to
meet some of the workers of this latter society who were con-
nected with Mr. Buxton's work, and to receive a very cordial
letter of welcome from Mr. Buxton himself. This dear
brother has lately come to Japan as the representative of a
missionary spirit which will meet, we know, with a very
cordial response in all our people's hearts. He is a descend-
ant of an old and honored English family, Sir Thomas Fowell
Buxton ; is possessed of ample means to sustain the Mission
he represents, and yet is working loyally under the noblest
of English societies, the Church Missionary Society. He is
a thoroughly consecrated Christian, believing with all his
heart in the Lord as a Healer and Sanctifier, and standing out
in unoompromising separation from all the inconsistencies
and follies of the religious world. So true is his testimony
that even missionaries sometimes think him and his party of
workers extreme. They have no time for receptions, picnics,
Shakespearean readings and idle sight-seeing, and no heart for
aught save the one thing the L(n-d has sent them to do.
Their lives are simple, econonncal and elevated. They have

! J

5o8 I.ARC.ER OITI.OOKS OX M/SSVOXARr LANDS.

gone straight to the unoccupied fields of the interior, and al-
ready God has begun to greatly bless their work. Our f nends
will be glad to know that it is among these good missionaries,
and on the borders of the great unoccupied field they have
entered, that we have decided to organize onr missionary
work in the interior of Japan.

Here we again received the same assurances which we
had already heard at Kobe, of the strong independent move-
ment 0,1 the part of the native churches, and their desire to
throw off the foreign control and take the entire direcion of
all the missionary work in Japan. We found nmch less of
this in some of the other societies, and we believe it has been,
for various causes, most decided in the churches of the Amer-

ican Board. ,, .

The Cumberland Presbyterian Church has an exceUent
work in Osaka, and we had some V-cious fellowship w.th its
good nussionaries,remindingusof the olddaysatlortWorth^

One of their lady evangehsts, now in America has been
greatly blessed iu establishing a large circle of stations and
thurcL in the vicinity of Osaka ; and, we believ-e, she was
able to .10 all this excellent and substantial work through an
interpreter and without speaking a word of Japanese

From Osaka we next went to Kyoto, the ancient capital
of Japan. It is not as large as Osaka, numbering about a
quarter of a million inhabitants. But it is a most beaiitiful
city full of quaint old temples, and surrounded with a frame
of picturesque hills on every side. This was for centuries the
spiritual capital, where the Mikado resided in sacred isola-

xcsaa

■■

ep5.

ior, and al-
;3ur friends
lissionaries,
[ they have
missionary

!S which we
ident move-
dr desire to
direction of
luch less of
it has been,
)f the Amer-

au excellent
ship with its
Fort Worth,
-a, has been
stations and
ieve, she was
c through an
anese.

icient capital
ning about a
lost beautiful
with a frame
• centuries the
I sacred isola-

(-
o

o
o
o

I
I-

Ul
Ul

ACROSSJ.IPAX />'}' RAIL.

509

tion as tlie religious head of tJie nation, while, the Daimios or
nobles ruled at Tokioand swayed the tenii)oral power hy mili-
tary force.

Forty years ago all this was changed, and Japan emerged
out of Feudalism aud Superstition to become, in a single gen-
eration, the
most progres-
sive of Asiatic
and, almost,
of modern na-
tions. Since
then the cap-
ital has been
transferred to
Tokio, and
Kyoto is but a
monument of
Old Japan.
But for one
who has time
to study it, it
is an interest-
ing relic. We
had neither
heart nor leis-
ure to spend
more than a
few hours in the bell tower, kyoto

jIO L.'IRnF.N OVnOOKS OA' MtSarONARV LANDS

looking .t tl,e must int«.«tin« , I' its anoieut te,n,.l.« and
\22 S„n,.. „£ tl,e,» are ver, .ostly. tl.e.r altavs and
brines iH-ing cove^d with gold and precions »tones and
h " Uns nni„no and wholly Japanese. The s.tes of most
then, a,.e s„„e,„. and tl.oi,- grounds spacons and finely
nlauted as all gionnds are in Japan. The great Bdl o
Ittm^le is 'one of the largest in the world and Us

tone is singu-
larly SWtM't
and far reach-
ing, sounding
over the hill»
for many
miles. Kyoto
is a city of
magnificent
distances, and
the suburhs
that reach on t
on every side,
along the

slopes of the

exquisite hills

to a distance

of many miles

a r e covered

with striking

buildings.

1 EMPUE OF HACHIMAN, KYOTO.

vDS

uipleB and
altars and
tones, and
tes of most
and finely
^at Bell of
Id and its

ACROSS J. IP. I. y /.)' /,•///,.

511

TO.

^^_£. - :^S£^

Tlitj (Tovciiuiiciit Cullej;(', wlicir oiii' host lias Ih'cii teach-
ing, is a fine huilding with several hnndted students. To
Americans the most interesting institution in Kyoto is the
Doshisha nr Christian College, founded by Dr. Neeissima,
who was, perhaps, tlie most gifted and distinguished native
Christian that has arisen from the .Japanese church. The
halo that his life has left beliind it, even y(^t in Tapan, gives
evidence of the power of this gcjod man's life. He was a
man of singleness of imrpose, nmch faith and a great force
of character. His great life-work was to found the Doshisha,
and leave it as a heritage to his beloved Japan. It is a strong
and well-enuipi)ed colleg(N embracing a theological school,
and designed to give a higher education under Christian in-
fluence to the youth of Japan, and especially to train those of
them for the Christian ministry who are willing to d(!Vote
thetr lives to that high calling. Tliere are several hundred
students in attendance, and we had the privilege of being
asked to address them twice. We found them veiy bright
and responsive, and took the opportunity to ))ress home upon
their hearts the need of spiritual rather than ])urely intellec-
tual culture as the true secret of power and the great need of
Japan. Everywhere we go in this land we feel it inoro and
more — the smartness of the people is their bane ; and their
great need — the only thing that will stead)' them fully and
give them jM'rmanence is spiritual depth and power. We tried,
as best we could, through an interpreter, to impress upon
them Paul's great argument, in I. Cor. ii., for the spiritual
rather than the psycliical element in heavenly wisdom, illu-
mination and power. And wliile to many it was no doubt

r..,m;r^ ofTLOOJ^s ox M/ss/ox.iuy

ixns.

L.p..h.™iW.., yet we ecu,,, see an,, ... that . , .""«=r

f..i.n.ls may see hi.n .luring the suniiue.. He is ..
lVa::™rla;;i..eaU.-M.>.t .„ t,™ta„ evHn.e,„.a,.

— t;r:::^e.o„«,e^«,at.^.--K>™w

•... „ll (1,P forei.'ii missionaries-about a h<ore, ami
^onewithal the oe„,^ ,„,,,, .leligMf,.:

the otluTS with nativi., amUeiiu s. ,.„,eiv«l with

fenowship with the ""— rr.^; „ ^t the need of
cordial kind„.«, ana .„u. « '°"« ";7;",^,„„^ ..^^^ev than s„
theSu^rnatuvai ^-;;; ,^';« 1 _ i«eived with a
much of our own cullu.^ am ^^^^,

heartiness that greatly *««f " .. ^^^^neni or missionary
Ho«rapher of ^>— ^''j';' ^ ^l J, ,he Hoiy Ghost

uablo insight into the condition of I 1'"*™; \,„

,.„„. his pi.cious «--j'j-7 " tow'l tdependence
have met, he also sees the stionfc ^^^^ ^_^_j^_.

iuthe native Church, -''j ■^''; ':'^,., ^„.„™,„, intel-

.tands the ''-f ^^I'tf "^^^^.e have already referred

r'"tr :: irrtu If hope for «« future, and
to; but he is a ^^.^^^ ^^^.^^g^

yet been scarcely touched in this country.

\'PS.

^,>o(\ tuany

it America,
;v. He is a
t vangelit-al,

nt at Kyoto
\ score, and
}i (loliglitfii
i^eived with
the need of
,her tlian ho
eived with a
le friend and
.!■ missionary
> Holy Ghost
IS much val-
ork in Japan
the others we
independence
ixn, he under-
darism, intel-
i-eady referred
future, and
true foreign
r, and in hum-
native Church,
;, who have as-

■Mpi

ACROSS J. I P.I r<! ji y rail.

513

We luul tlu' plt'uisuio ttf forming the aniuainlanco of
anol lun- luitivo puHtor, Urv. Mi. Knwa, ami of preaching to his
lH'0|)h'. He belongs to the same body as Mr. Mya Oovva of
Osaka, and has a laige and interesting congregation. We
cannot stop to speak of all tht> itleasant and profitable ac-
(luaintances or asso( iations of these three days in old Kyoto.
We jvere sorry to learn afterwards that we had ])assed by the
very room in the hospital in which our bel(>v<'d fellow tiav-
eller, Kev. Dr. Kidg* vay, of rhi<;ago, was lying dangerously
ill with tyi)hoid fever, and we knew not until we were one
hundred miles from Kyoto that he was even there. We
were glad, however, ere we left Japan, to receive a letter from
his wife stating that he was much better, and we could not
thank our own dear Father enough for the faithfulness and
lovc! that had not permitted us to lose a single hour with
sickness or pain during all the long months of our dangerous
journey. Blessed be His dear and gracious name !

From Kyoto wo went on alone to Nagoya, about one hun-
dred and tw(»nty miles farther east on the I'okaido or great
road to Tokio. Nagoya is the fourth city in the empire, next
in population to Kyoto, and a commercial centre of great im-
portance. It is the great Buddhist metropolis, and their hos-
tility to Christianity is very determined. Tt is also the cen-
tre of the Earthquake District, and they tell very thrilling
stories of the scenes of three years ago, when this whole sec-
tion was devastated and many lives wei-e lost. The great
rents in the ground are still to be seen in the country round
Nagoya, where the earth was cleft asunder. It was just a

J iKG/h' oiTf.oohs o.\' Ar/ss/i>\.iA'y / ixns.

litth- after HUi..is....in.ltlM', pU- l.a.l nut y.t left tl.eir homes

wlH.ii in a mcnont. tl.py lu-ar.! a slrauK'', cmshinK souml,
and tlH> kind H.'(M.u'(l KiasiK-tl as in a ^'iaiit hand Jind as a
wildb.'ast ^vould shako its i.rcy, till -tho houHes were Inulcd
fiom thHr 1 oindations, tho tih-s came turnhhiiK fvom the

NAOOYA CASTLE.

roofs, and the i)eople lied from thcii- doors to he crushed by
the faUing tiles and timber.

The little children, now in Mr. Ishii's Orphanage, atN^go-
ya, were mostly refugees, left homeless by that catastrophe.
For nearl V a month afterwards there were constant shocks, bUt

xns.

Llu'ir honu's,
hiuK Hoinul,
d and as a
were liuilcd
g ftom tho

e crusliod by

age, at Nago-

catastrophe.

it shocks, hut

U/^OSSJ.I/>,IX /.')• A'.///

515

after the fiiNt they were coniixifativfly h.iniih'ss. Kuith-
qiiakos are V ry common in Japan, an<l tlic people slt'cp with
thcii- doDiH so ( oiivcniciitly fastoiicd that lln\ could open
them and fly out at a njoment's alarm.

Nagoya in also a miswionaiy centie. Here we found the
8()uth( in T'reshyterians, and weie UKtsI liospitahly enter
taiiiod hy our good brother, Mr. Cummings, one of their mem-
hers; also hy tin* Methodist Protestants, one of whoso hright
and gifted missionaries, Miss Do For«;st, is canying on a
hrave, aggressive \v'o>kin the Japanese theaties in tlie face of
a strong Buddhis: op{)o' }*-um. The Northern Methodists liave
an excellent wo; k, uid u had the piivile^e of pn-aching in
their large chap 1 i > u s ry good congregation of natives.
There is also an ex. ■ Uoai young mission here from Wyckliffe
College, Canada, carried on by a consecrated band of Cana-
dian p]piscopalians, and having nmch of the best spirit of the
Church Missionary Society peojde we have met abroad.

Here, also, some of our own missionaries have settled for
the present, and we sjjent two days in frecpient fellowship
with our dear sisters. Miss Baines and Miss Howard, at their
pleasant Japanese cottage in Nagoya. Miss Barnes is in good
health and has made fair jjrogress with the language. She
will remain in Nagoya for the sununer, and in the autunui
will join Dr. and Mrs. Gulick in the interior. Miss Howard
lias devoted herself chiefly to the orphans who were, for a
time, under her special care, after the return of Miss Kinney,
hut have been transferred to Mr. Ishii's native Orphanage.
She feels led to return to America, and we have encouraged

,;i6 LARCKR OI'TLOOKS OX .V/SS/OX.Ihr LANDS.

\wi; in view of all the present circumstances, to do so. Two
very bright young Japanese ladies were also living and work-
ing with them, Knoyesan and Shigimat/u, and a little
Eurasian girl, named Mar-
ion, whom Miss Howard
has adopted.

We had nmch earnest
confereiice, - and learned
from them the story of
their trials and victories,
and endeavored to counsel
and help them all we could.
We felt that Kagoya
was too much occupied by
other workers to need us,
and our workers were only
too glad to have the pros-
pect of getting out and
into the regions beyond.

A good deal of the
work at ^^agoya is educa-
tional. There are two la-
dies' schools, one under the
Methodist and the other the

Presbyterian Mission. The girls, as usual, looked verjr
sweet and bright. It was Commencement Day in one of the
P-hools, and we ]^eard their exercises and were struck with
the grace and modesty of the graduates. We were asked to

TWO NATIVE TEACHERS.

.'INDS.

lo SO. Two
g and work-
md a little

■»* ' %K

HERS.

looked very-

in one of the

e struck with

were asked tiO

ACh'ossj.ir.iy iiv rail.

517

address thcni. and we saw some tears in tlieif eyes as we
talked of Jesus and His love.

We had a pleasant visit at Nagoya, and received nuich
kindness from all the other missionaiies as well as our own
workers. But Dr. and Mrs. GuUck came on for us after the

LAKE HAKONE,

second day, and taking leave of our own and several
•<ither missionaries at the station, we hastened on to I'okio.

It was a long ride of fourteen hours, hut much of it lay
through a beautiful country. About foiu" o'clock we passed
the base of the famous Fujiyama, Japan's beautiful moun-

ci8 LARGER Or-TLOOk'S O.V mssrO.Wl RV LANDS.

tain M fivst it seenie.l as if we should not see it. for the sky
wo.'thick with mist. But (lod was mindful of even this ht-
tie wish and prayer, and before the sun went down, tlie
tul parted, Ll the mists which had obscured tu> beauti-
ful mountain, became a crown of glory upon its lot ty brow,
teachiuK us that the things that often seem to hmder us,
shall if we but trust and wait, not only be cleared from our
pathway, but will leave a gUn-y and blessing which we could
never have known if they had not come.

Fujiyama is the pride of Japan. It is, indeed, a beau i-
ful mountain, nearly 13,ooo feet liigh, about as high as the
Rockies and ML Blanc ; and, standing in lonely isolation, with
its perfec-t cone, is the chief glory of the Sunrise Kingdom,
ard the beautiful cloud-capped signal, seen first upon her
shores, as the voyager looks out from the long waste of
waters for the first sight of land.

Later we passed through the lovely Hakone country, with
its soft green hills and its lake away up on the mountain
side all reminding one bo much of the scenery of England,
which Japan, indeed, so much resembles

We reached Tokio at ten o'clock that night, and had a
warm welcome from our host and hostess, Mr. and Mrs.
Brand of the American Baptist Mission, two brave, true-
hearted missionaries, full of faith and the Holy Ghost aiul
standing for Christian whole-heartedness, Scriptural methods
and aggressive missionary work in the midst of the many
mingled currents of the religious life and work of Japan.

The following week we returned a second time to their

1 1

for tho sky
ven this 1 it-
down, the
tho beauti-
lofty brow,
hinder us,
ed from oui"
ch we could

ed, a beauti-
high as the
olation, with
se Kingdom,
st upon her
ng waste of

country, with
,he mountain
f of P^.ngland,

;ht, and had a
Mr. and Mrs.
) brave, true-
tly Ghost, and
tural methods
) of the many
of Japan.
1 time to their

>
z
>

o
>

lif

520 j.ARf'i'K orri.ooKs ox flrrssroxARV /..tyos.

liospitable liome, to meet tlie missionaries of Tokio in their
<;hapel, and dnring onr brief visit to Tokio we were much
rheered by their fellowship and kindness. They belong to a
class of missionaries which we rejoice to find increasing in
the foreign field, and through whose closer fellowship and

TOKIO.

united testimony a deeper spiritual life and a stronger type
of faith and holy character are yet to come to the workers
abroad. We rejoice to believe that the movement ^ill be in-
aiigurated to bring about an annual conference of those of
like mind in some central place in Japan for mutual encour-

VDS.

io in their
v^ere much
aelong to a
creasing in
wship and

Tonger type
tlie workers
it iJ^ill he in-
> of tliose of
tnal encour-

ACROSS J. If. IX /{)' A\l/f..

521

agemeiit and th.t; promotion of faith, hohnessand true spiiitual
])Ower on the ))art of both native anu foreign Chi-istian work-
ers.

During tJie two or three days spent in Tokio, we had the
opportunity of seeing a httle of the great city and renewing
many pleasant old ac(piaiutances as well as of forming some
new ones.

Miss Finch had spent several months in Tokio, and had
already made excellent progress in the language, and enjoyed
some opportunities of missionary service through an inter-
l)reter. Vv e saw nuich of her both here and afterwards in
Yokoliama, and were able to arrange with her the plan of her
future work. She has had some severe trials, but the way
is now clear and plain, and We are sure her work will be
blessed, and Japan prove to her the field of the Master's
choice.

We called on our old friend, Mr. John Ballagh, of the
Meiji Gaukin, or Presbyterian Collage, and we found that
the term had just closed and the students scattered to their
home.s. lie is ba])py in bis work, and surrounded by a new
and bright family circle in his lovely home. He received us
with nmch kindness, and came down afterwaids twice to Yo-
kohama to show his brotherly interest in us, and at last to
see us off. His old American friends Avill be glad to see him
back in the United States next year. The college at Tokio is
very nuich like the Doshisha at Kyoto— an educational estab-
lishment for the higher training of the Christian yimng men
of Japan, and especially for the theological training of candi-
dates for the ministry.

m m Mm

522

LARGER orri.ooKS OX M/ss/ox.i/^') /..ly/is:

There arc not Meaily so many studeuts as at Kyoto-
about two Imndied m all, we believe, and a l.tir i ropox'tii.n
of these are theological students.- Tlie colletAL' buildings are
very handsome and the site is superl).

We found the same tendenry in Tokio that m- have al-
ready referred to, looking towards (lieindepeudent c of the na-
tive churches ; and it setriis prokibic that the foreigti workers
in the college may be reduced. Indeed, som- of them have
already gone t. America and may not return to .TiipuM.

W.- had {.vieat pleasure in meetinj.^ Miss Anaa Perry,
forme' v r-.r X.'vv York, and hearing some of the facts re-
spectJnj.>; h>i j-tost ijitoresting and successful work. She has
opened hi' own home for her meetings, and she told us how
eagerly the peop\<? of all classes thronged the i-ailors, and
hciw numyof them were truly led toC'hrlH!. -She has now
nearly a <lozen different centres of work, led l.y various bands
of native workers, and over six hundred children attend-
ing her schools. There have been some beautiful in-
stances of the grace and power of God. She told us how a
policeman lately met a noted criminal in the rooms, and as
they recognized each other, the former remarked to the
other: "This is the right place for you to be." Not long
ago, a fisherman came in to some ot the meetings, and hear-
ing the secret of trusting God, he began to pray foi- his busi-
ness, and th(^ Lord answered his prayers in such an extraor-
dinary manner, by tilling his net with fishes, that he actually
left his boat and work and came into Tokio t<. rendej' thanks
to God for His goodness.

.IC/fO.SS /.ir.l.V /;)■ RAIL.

523

As if to (louhlf tilt' iih'iisnic of our visit, w«> U'urned by
tlie mail timt icaduMl Tokio wliilc we were tlii'ir. that ht r
dear sister, Miss Faiiiiy IN'ii y. ol' New York, so loii^ aftlictcd
witli the most distressing of all diseases, had Ixrome jH-rfectly
well.

We had several very cordial iiivitations to visit tln' Metho-
dist Conference in Tokio. which was just assend)ling as we
left Japan, hut our time would not permit more than a brief
dro|» in for an hour to hear Bishop Foster give a lectnre on
astronomy at the opening u-ception. We did not (juite
see the connection of the subject with the occassioii,
although the lecture was a good one, and wehad no doubt
the Conference would jirove a time of blessing. There
are about twenty missionaries and as many native
preachers in the Methodist Episcopal Mission in Japan. It is
not on<' of the largest missions, but it is a good one. Wo
met a nund)er of the missionaries and presiding elders, and
found them good men and tiue, with hearts reaching out for
deeper spiritual things. Dr. Daniells, whom we had known
in America, had been spending a year in Tokio. and by his
earnest preaching in the jiovver of the Holy Ghost, had been
a means of inspiration and <piickening to the members of the
Mission. He kindly called upon us and speiit an evening
with us, and we found his heart full of the spirit of the
Master.

We were invited to address the missionaiies, and a num-
ber of them came to our meeting on Tuesday evening, and
we spoke to them the old simjde message of God and His all-
sufficiency and power. Our heart's cry all thi'ough these

l*M»»«

524 l.Ah'<:i'R OUTLOOKS ox ynSSTOSANY i.Axns.

niisHioiLiry IuihIh has overl.cou that hoth we and othors may
know Him lu c.Mitiii^l ^ ith all ou- woaknoss, uii.I ovn- aKainst
all our ii;iHciil«i" . Wstaclos and nisuiH-rahle taHks.

One of the moHt interesting men we met in Tokio, and
one of the wisest friends of Christian Missions in Japan, is
T)i. \V).itnev, of the Ameriean Legation. Tokio. He is in
deep Rynipathy with all tbnf iu ^ >st in mission and Christian
work, and throngh Ins connection with the consnlar office
has rendered invaluahle service to all nnssionaries. He has
fcndered nnu-h help to the Swedish missionaries, and is m
deep sympathy with their hnmhl.', self-denying spirit and
work. We leceived some useful snggestions (nmi him, and
before we saile.l were glad to have a message from him com-
mending to <.ur missionary consideration a great unoccupied
field of islan.ls, Iving off the east coast of Japan.

There are a great many missionaries in Tokio, almost one
hundred, and almost all . arieties of methods are represented.
The American Episcopal Church is at present .ei>iesented by
liev. Mr. i'age. one of the sweetest spirits we hav met
abroad The American V .tists have a strong work a ^ev-
eral foreign lal.orers. Mr. and Mrs. lirand's work, especially,
U much bl.'ssed, jind constantly re, civ ing accessions. The
Canadian Methodists, un.ler Mr. Eby, have a great popular
1 ibernarVs and are tryii • to draw the i>eople by the methods
usual in American ci as-popular lectures and illustrated
Gospel addresses. We have already referred to the men-
can Fresh Mevians ami Methodists. Our Swedish friends m
Tokio are biUTowing awav .h.wn among the lowest masses,,

■i.vns.

I otluTH may
[ ov»>r against

n Tokio, and
in Japan, is
io. Ho is in
md (UniHtian
L)nsular office
I'it^s. Ho has
ics, and is in
n^ spirit and
loin him, and
orn him com-
it luioccupied

io, ahiiost one

e represented.

e[)resented by

■vve hav' met

work . ^ev-

)rk, esp«*cially,

cessions. The

great popular

)y the methods

and illustrated

to the nieri-

;lisli friends in

I owes* masses,

j4C/fOs /.l/'.rV l!Y KAIL.

525

and their labor is not in vain. We went to visit one of their
chapels, and they showed us the narrow streets smd lanes all
around, where dozens of families Imddled together fis cloH<>ly
as in the dives of New Yoik.

An effort was made last winter by Mrs. Morris, of liil,

A STREET IN TOKIO.

<! 'iia, to reach the high class ladies, and some of them at-
t( nd« 1 her Bible readings and showed some interest. It is
doubted by the best and most experienced missionaries
whether anyt' ng can be gained by i di»-e<,t appeal to the
high class feeling in Japan. What the uatio? \ost needs is

526 I.AK-aiK Ol'TLOOKH OX nisyiosMtv i.Anms.
M.„„-.,u,h bun,bUn« „l tl,.. f,.,.totJ™u,,unahone„tolTort
;,,......, .,1, ,!.»»... ana .,,«iany th., low,.,- -^l--'. »

,.,„nm,>n l..v,.l „t lo»t and «nf,.l l,„...amty ,m«tmto at tl.,.
;::;::ri>,v M...,,-, »„,. accptm, ^^^ 0„m,nn„Salvat,on

AVithout rosp^'ct ..f l»'lSOnS. f ,...nrlnVK iu

Tokio i» an unniense city, w o spt m i •'

TOWER AND MOAT, TOKIO CAST UE.

a,.ivi„« about it i„ -Jinrik.has,- and itUterally t-''-^-"
to ,ret anywhere. It seemed as lai-ge as l.ond.«. It .s ^a.d
t, b 7ght mile, e«:h way, o,- about sixty on,- mae,
lal, We thought Nanking an immense e,K-losu,-e ; but
Toir is twiee as la,-ge. It has a population of more '^"l^;
:-monanaac„arter. There are many -^^^^^^^^
ings. The National University, tl,e Eoyal Pala^, the

I VPS.

jonest ofTort
18808, on the
itrato at the
on Salvation

I two days in

y took us hours
i(>ii. It is said
cty-four miles
enclosure ; but
of more than a
gniftcent build -
Palace, the for-

I i

.iCA'OSsy.iRix nv rail.

527

eign hotel, the Sliiba Templt-s, and the great Moat around
the t'ortner citadel, are striking erections. The prettiest
thing about it is the natural situation. It is really a collec-
tion of villages, the one running into the other with a rustic
freedom nowhere else to he found. You ride along for a
while dcwn a great business street, with American horse cars
running down the middle of it. and, by-and-by, you branch

off into a nar-
r o w street
w h i c h soon
becomes a
winding lane
lined with the
lovehest ever-
green hedges,
neatly cut like
a living wall,
and hiding be-
hind them a
pretty villa, or
little cottage. You pass along through a perfect network of
these pretty lanes, until you i-each a hilltop, where you get a
view of another hill beyond you covered with similar streets
and houses and hedges. And so you pass on from village to
village, over undulating hills, through pretty valleys aud
ravines, and occasionally through a business street, until you
wonder if it will ever end ; and, at length, after you have
been run for several hours through all these interminable

ATAGA YAMA, NEAR SHIBA TEMPLE.

-JL^

528 LARCr.R Oin.OOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

roads, you reach your destination, and begin to wonder when

you will ever get back.

We know no place just like it, so metropolitan, yet so
rural ; so romantic yet so substantial and great. It is as unique
as Peking-^ the worthy capital of the most curious, mixed-
up and clever littlepeople on the faceof the globe,-thepeople

of New Japan.

. ■f^j y^ki: ■ ■ I ' .^^Wl ' --■,-•■> '" *». —

onder whftu

itan, yet so
is as unique
oug, mixed-
— the people

wrmc

i^ i .

:*?

■'^m

xxvin.

LAST DAYS IN JAPAN.

WE spent our last week in Yokohama. It was a
strange luxury to look on our old wayworn bags
and bundles, and try to realize that we had only
to pack and unjjack them once more before we should be
homeward bound. But much yet remained to be done ere
we could bid the great Orient good-bye, and we needed to
make the most of every moment that yet remained.

Services had been arranged for Sabbath and Monday
evenings in connection with the Union Church. Dr. Meacham
is the earnest pastor of this church, whose membership con-
sists largely of missionaries. Such honored names as Hep-
burn, Loomis, Ballagh, Booth, and many more as widely
'known, make up the constituency of this influential parish.
We had the piivilege of meeting most of the missionaries in
Yokohama, not only at the services on Sabbath and Monda}-
evenings, but also personally.

Good Mrs. Pierson, the senior missionary of the Woman's

Union Missionary Society, and for many years the warm

friend of all our missionaries, and herself a member of our

Alliance, received us most kindly and invited us to address

her eighty Bible women the last night we were in Japan.
529

, 1

iilBH

Mia

530 i^;.<T«'«A'r/.00A-5 0A'..//«/avw^r/...A™.

Mi,8 Crosby her associate fvom the beginning in the work,

■mi one of the best informed men «i Japan on a

t 1 with the r»li.-ioua life of the nation, called and
Z^M ns tl e ,ate An>:i..an papers, and gave us nrr.h va -
'Ile'infornuvtion abont Christian -vU in t e e„P^e^ ^
Ja,nes Ballagh, of ^^^^^^^ t Misln-
"■" r"* -" S—t, "okohama, kindly attended to our
busmessforus,a„d.sthe^^^ any forwarding busi-

other nnssionaiy 01 t'^\""' „y (,ie„d of many

ness in Yokohan.a. M,ss f;";";™'^^,^ her seventieth
year, ago, was here, t«o, »* -«j;*J,^" ^^ has a large
birthday, but was lo*mgf-''y»^ ^,,

missionary home and «<>«"'"' ^ir-^ionary under

Goodell, who lately came f"'" Tex^ f ! '^^^ ^j^^ '^er for

,be An-c-vas^-ifr^^^^^^^^^^ Miance mis-

""ires tas in YotoLma, and had .,een for about a year
s,onanes was m ^ ^^^^_^^ ,_^^ ^^^,^ ^,„a.

''"s'^d *: le*; — ^ to her. Miss Pratt has made e.
nossandisdi^piy .^ ^ ^^^.^^^ ^^^ ^,^^3

cellent pvogi-ess ■" *« "'"^ « ^u, g^^day school of

«"'• r 'I^M-i- Mashing village, down by the
over fifty children ^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^.^^^^ „£

':l*ir WH, *ewas\eaching the youngand unkempt

LAST DA VS IN JAPAN.

531

ANDS.

ill the work,
^eminai-y, the
rkers, showed
Bible Society,
n all matters
)n, called and
i us much val-

empire. Mr.
s devout spirit
f the Mission-
ittended to our

same for any
i-wavding busi-
riend of many
[ her seventieth
She has a large
,f guests. Mr.
tif^ionary under
ae with her for
ur Alliance niis-
f or about a year
her much kind-
itt has made ex-
light and gifted
Sunday school of
re, down by the
ower stratum of
Ling and unkempt

little crowd in front, the rest of the family were drinking
their tea, cooking and eating their rice, and winding and un-
winding their nets in the back of the room. But the little
faces were earnest and bright, and certainly kept much better
order than the usual crowd of American street boys would

VOKOHAVA

have done at home. It v.. probably the only httle ray of
heavenly light that ever .".ils on those dark and neglected

httle lives. .

We saw all we cared to of Yokohama. Jt is the chief
port of Japan. It has a population of about 120,000, and a

532 lahcer ovti-ooks on m.'^sfox.iny lands.

large foreign trade. Uh foreign Bun.l is large and well built
and compL favorably with other Oriental c.t,e^ although
it is interior to Shanghai, Calcutta and Bon>bay. Most of the
fomgners reside on the Bln«, which in a bold and handson.e
elevation, running out between the harbor of VoVohama and
the larger Bay of Tokio. It affords a magnificent s,te fo
private houses, i,eing cool and retired, and connnand.ng good
views of the harbor and bay. Here the vdlas are most
luxurious, and the grounds spacious and eleg.ant. Like the
lotus-eaters of old, the missionary who stays too long he,c
may find his strength paralysed and bis spun enervated f o.
the sacrifices and hardships of the interior. ^ o do not say
hat there are not trne, loyal and self-denymg nnss.onanes
Iven in these luxurious surroundings, bnt they need to
"watch and pray, lest they enter into temptation

Among the foreign residents here we we>-e glad to meet
our old friend, Mrs. Jennie Bramhall, formerly of B™*ly»,
Td sister of Mrs. Frances Barrett, of the Gospel Tabernacle
New York. We visited her in her elegant home, and found
heTtiying to bring up her httle family in the fear of God^
Her hnsblnd represents a wealthy Now York sdk house, and
S business gives employment to n>any tens ot thousands of
Japanese. She has been very kind t» some of our mrssion-
aries, and her house has been for them a welcome home.

One of the missionaries took us out one evenmg late fo.
a night view of this heathen city. We had seen Shanghai
and Singapore by gashght, but Yokohama far exceeds them
all in shameless sin.

IVDS.

d well built,

es, althouglt
Most of thi'
d handsonio
Vohama and
cent site for
landing good
as are most
it. Like the
00 long here
■nervated for
e do not say
niissionaries
hey need to
5n."

glad to meet
of Brooklyn,
i\ Tabernacle,
lie, and found
i fear of God.
ilk house, and
[ thousands of
f our mission-
ime home,
^rening late for
seen Shanghai
exceeds them

-I

tn
fn

<
O

I
>
s
>

. ,,. ^p|pM| l pup^^yJ^ pj^

/..isr D.ns r\ J

533

' ilooded, so brastly,

,i> (iveiy true humau

ide sutticient to freeze

most degraded Imiuan

T^iere in no indelicacy in descrihii it, for it is open to
fver> ye, an<l almost every foreigner drives through this
street, liut it is an awful sight to see those foui- thousand
puulic li« utiiitea of vice and criine, dressed in their gorgeous
robes, and sitting there, in view of luindreds, behind the
open rasenients. through blofk after block of great buildings
111 that public tboi'oughfart , lookii - like irattie in th(> stall,
♦lecked for the shanddes. It \va- ^
so coarse, so ghastly, so utterly
frelinp;, that one would think th
the very pulses of vice in all 1
hearts.

No wonder that Yokohama bears the name of being, so
' at least, as its foreign i)o|)ulation is coMccrned, the wick-
city even in wicked Japan.

Some of the streets were full of tht atres, open to the
public gaze, wiiere the dreary, monotonous sliow got s on for
hour after hour before the ])atient sjjectators. Others were
crowded with archeries and various shows, and all were full
of people, surging past in countless throngs, till far into the
night, all apparently happy, careless, gay, and free from
(>very thought of the morrow. It was a good picture of one
phase of the nation- jolly, laughing, boyish, young Japan.

Sometimes the ludicrous comes up in bright Japan.
They are not a people to be laughed at, but they do some
laughable things. Here is an advertisement on the front of
an artist's store : " Want <'d -An Order. Your Picture — wiU
he made cheap on seiv^ iiis photograph."

534

L.lh'Cr.h' OUTLOOKS ON MfSS/O.y .1 h'V LANDS

The 8hop8 are full of toys of every kind— flying fish,
birds that inflate and float in the air, boxps of miniature ani-
mals, gods, cities, and every conceivable thing. The children
are everywhere, and the streets are full of tlieir jollity, fun
and happy freedom.

The native stores are much cheaper than the foreign.

There are many of the
latter, where costly
curios are sold to ex-
travagant travellers at
great prices. The
same things can us-
ually be bought in the
Japanese stores for
half the price or less.
The principal art-
icles that foreigner.-;
generally indulge in
are bronzes, silks, em-
broideries, lacquer
work, tortoise shell,
photographs, and thi^
very pretty engraved
pictures on their rice
paper, which they
hang on screens and
banners with such

A JAPANESE PEDDUER. l^^^^V effeCt. But WO

N -^J

._, i,^4

JV/)S

flying fish,
liaturo aiii-
Iie children
jollity, fun

ho foreign,
nany of the
ere costly
sold to ex-
.ravellers at
ces. The
'^H can us-
ught in the
stores for
ice or less,
•incipal art-
foreigners
indulge in
s, silks, eni-
lacquer
toiae shell,
lis, and the
:y engraved
n their rice
'hich they
screens and
with Bucli
ct. But we

m dm^&^mmjm-m ^- ■

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

I.I

_jQ BW (fflaESE

1^ 12.2

— 6"

2.0

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Wiotograpnic

Sciences

Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S80

(716) 872-4503

^\\

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^^>.^

CIHM/ICMH

Microfiche

Series.

CIHM/ICMH
Collection de
microfiches.

Canadian Institute for Hbtorical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de nricroreproductions historiques

iliiHli

EXTERIOR OF A JAPANESE HOUSE.

Krproduction froin a Japanese Painting.

'"""^"^ ' '""""""''^'"'"'nffii -w

L/'ST DA YS /X JAPAN.

have learned too well the value of money for higher purposes
to be strongly tempted even by these extraordinary bargains.

We had much earnest work to ilnish in Yokohama.
Scores of letters had accumulated, and many matters affect-
ing our missionaries in India, Malaysia and China, as well as
Japan, had to bo settled by correspondence before we left the
great Eastern Hemisphere.

We had been waiting nearly a week for our good brother,
Mr. Lelacheur, to come from Singapoio to consult with us
about our whole work in China and the Straits Settlements
and Islands. So important had this seemed, that we liad even
felt justified in calling him from his important work in Sing-
apore, and a proposed journey to the Caroline Islands, for the
purp ' of conferring with him about the larger superintend-
ence of the whole work in China, including also t!ie Malaysian
coast and islands. For this i)Uipose he had arranged to come
to Yokohama to meet us before we should sail, that we might
together go over all the plans of the work, and then separate
to our resp /e fields, he to Shanghai and we to the west-
ern world, to i;l> our people to sustain him and his felloM--
workers by our prayers, counsels and contributions.

For days we had no word from him, and it seemed as if
he might not be able to make the necessary connection. But
at length he arrived, just one day before we were to sail, and
those last hours, incluchng most of the night, were spent in
earnest, prayerful conference and arrangements. Our beloved
brother had come without a moment's delay, and with all his
heart met our suggestions and requisitions. How we thanked

52^

LARGER Orri.OOKS ox MISSIONARY LANDS.

God for liis spirit and for his valuable experience and train-
ing ! He was just the man our work needed at this critical
stage in these immense fields. And we were able to commit
to him all that God had been laying on our heart in those
vast oi^'iiings, and all that He had been permitting us in
some lnunble measure to begin during these past days — with
the confidence that it would be faithfully, loyally, and cour-
ageously carried out, in so far as the will of God should per-
mit and the power of God should enable.

We thanked God for the rest with which we were able
to hand over all this great trust, which had been absoi-bing
us night and day. After all these long months of perplexity
and toil, we felt we could turn our faces homeward, with the
delightful consciousness that the threads were all knitted to-
gether, and ih«> moorings all made fast in the hands of God,
and the humble, faithful stewardship, which is a pait of His
plan.

Then, too, we had much earnest thought and responsi-
bility for the work in Japan.

We had come to these beautiful islands, after the heavy
strain of two hai'd months in China, with something like a
sense of repose. We had felt somehow that we had got
through our birdest tasks on the mission field, and that we
should have three weeks of comparative ease in looking over
■ this smaller field, and arranging the simpler and easier ques-
tions of our mission in Japan.

But never were we more mistaken. Never had we been
called to meet, in so short a time, so many trying, perplexing

I and tiaiu-
this critical
to commit
irt in those
ttiiig us in
ilays — with
, and cour-
should per-

e were able
absorbing
perplexity
d, with the
knitted to-
ds of God,
part of His

d responsi-

the heavy
hing Hke a
e had got
nd that we
oking over
asier ques-

id we b«en
perplexing

/.AST PA YS !N JAFAN.

537

matters, whicii weighed down our spirit night and day, and
held us every moment in conscious dependence on that very
Mind of Christ for the wisdom, without which we would be
so sure to err.

They were questions of which we cannot speak in the
public ear ; but He who knows all hearts knows well how
hard, how delicate, how important, how varied, how perplex-
ing they were, and how they arose in new forms from day to
day, and how gentle and gracious and wonderful the way in
which He guided, overruled and worked for us and for His
work, and out of much that seemed confusing at length
brought, we lielieve, His own wise and simple plan and
order, through which, although it may be small as a germ of
mustard seed, and humble as the company of fishermen-
apostles, we believe He is yet to bring great and lasting
blessing for Japan.

When, at last, we got through the tangled mazes, and
had nothing left but to mail our bundle of letters, roll up our
rugs, and send our baggage on board the ' ' Oceanic, " w^e had
but one regret left, and that was that we had not some of
our Tabernacle friends at hand to shout with us, " Blessed be
the name of the Lord ! "

On Friday morning, July Tth, accompanied by half a
dozen true friends, we stepped on board the steam launch at
Yokohama, and in half an hour were in our cabin on the
"Oceanic," commending our beloved fellow -workers, in a
parting prayer, to the care of Him whose Presence covers
land and sea. and knows no dividing space or time.

538 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON AffSSfONARY LANDS.

In a few minutes we were mutually waving our affec-
tionate adieue as they .ailed back in the stean. launcl. arul
then we were cIT. Th. fluttering signals, the ruo s of Yoko^
hama, the shores of Japan receded from view, and our great
Bhip was sweeping homeward.

Six months of intensely busy travel were abotit to end,
and we began to xealize how nmch cause we had for gratitude
and praise to Him who had s.> graciously gmded and so w.m^
drously guarded us through all these changn.g scenes, and
^rfkindly kept the great trusts that we had Je t at .me
Just before we sailed, our cup was made f ulle, by letters
from India and China, telling of good news fron. all om-
work God had already opened one new station in Cential
China and given us a house at Han San H'sien. And from
Shanghai came the tidings of the great impi-ovement, am it
was hoped recovery, of the dear Swedish missionary we had
^ft in uch distress there. From India came the tidings of
two other open fields of service, and God's help U. our dear
n^issionaries through all the terrible ^^^^^^^ f ""^^"^'^^^^
son Along with this came the message from deai Mi s. Fuller
hat her dfrling babe had been taken out of this furnace of
summer heat to the home where the sun shall not light on
them nor any heat ; but with it came a letter so brave, . •
trrhearted, sounselflsh, so full of thought for others that
we could only thank God, with humbled heart, for her heroic
spirit, and the victory that faith can bring.

From across the great seas came also the message that
our own dear mother had just gone to join our revered and

[)uv affec-
Linch, and
1 of Yoko-
onr great

it to end,
• gratitude
id so won-
cenes, and
t at home.
■ by letters
.tu all our
ill Central
And from
lent, and it
iry we had
! tidings of
;o our dear
he hot sea-
Mra. Fuller,
? furnace of
i(»t light on
so brave, i' )
others, that
)r her heroic

Message that
revered and

LAST D.iVS f\' JAP.IN.

539

honored fatber in the home above. We thanked our Fatber
for her fourscore years, and the sweet memory of her life
and love, and for that dear and v«Mierable father, wlio, at
eighty-four, had just a little while ago passed on before, and
we felt that they bud not gone very far away. How nnuii
of this rich bh^sing that has crowded onr life is due to their
faithful prayers ! Tliank God for their precious lives and
everlasting memorial.

And from our home in New York there were so many
cheering messages of synipatliy and remembrance and prayer,
and the record of the generous kindness that had met the loss
of our publishing bouse through the recent fire, that our cup
was filed to overflowing, and we were made to feel utterly
unv/orthy of all this goodness, and utterly unable adequately
to express our grateful praise.

How faithful G(.d has been to all our dear flock and our
dear work at home !

We have had nothing but notes of praise from the work
in the TaOernacle, Berachah Home, the College, Hebron, the
Orphanage, the publishing work, the Door of Hope, and
the Missionary Board. The presence of the Holy Ghost has
been constantly "ith our beloved people. The spirit of unity
and love has pre . c led. The means for our great niissionaiy
work have continually been supplied by onr Father's bounty
and His people's faithfulness. How can we sufficiently bless
Hib gracious Name and thank His beloved people ! May His
richer grace enable us to be worthier of all His love.

XXIX.

THE SITUATION IN JAPAN.

BKF< )RE wo get beyond the shore-line of Jiiimn, let us
try to gather up the mingled iini)ression3 that have
he«Mv growing into something like a ])icture of this
interesting people, as we have passed through their midst

these twenty days.

If anything that we may write should go hack to Japan,
as doubtless it will, we tiust that the picture will be recog-
nized as the sketch of a friend. We cannot, even to avoid
criticism and i.ain, be false to our convictions ; and yet we
tmst that we niay not exaggerate an eccentricity or a fault,
or fail to give full credit to every real merit.

Of course, like the sketches of our little kodak, these are
all flash picture's, taken at sight, and not pretending to be
elaborate' and studied drawings ; we simply give them for
what they may he worth.

The people are always the first thing y*)U see.

How shall we describe a Japanese? A little, dark,

thick-set man, always reminding you of a boy, with round

head, flat features, and an immense growth of thick, black

hair.'that usually is cut short and stands on ends like a

04"

I»uii, let us

that liave

re of this

hoir midst

t to Japan,

be recog-

'11 to avoid

ind yet we

or a fault,

t, these are
iding to bo
e them for

ittle, dark,
with round
thick, black
ouds like a

THi'. siTr.\rio\ I\' I IPAS.

541

young forest of underbrush. This was our hrst iiripression
of a Jap. If ho is a coolie, ho weais a blous*; ovtT his back,
a cloth around his loins, and a pair <»f straw sandals on
his feet. If he is a "riksha" man, he mayhaveona sijit of
navy blue, consisting of a loose blouse coat, skiiitiglit, blue

drawers, straw sandals,
and a white hat. like
an inverted wash basin,
« on his head. If he is
a gentleinati, lie liiis a
loose robe, like a ilress-
inggown. called a " ki-
mono," gathered about
his i»(»ison, reaching t<»
his feet, and fastened
with a sash, and on bis
feet a pair of wooden
sandals, raised about
three inches from the
ground by w o o d e n
cleats oi- props, to keej)
him above the mud,
and perhaps add to his
height and supi»lement
the defect of nature in completing his stature. If he is a
little more Americanized than his fellows, he is dressed in
a foreign suit, usually with short sack coat, punts, shoes and
hat, and looks a little strange and out of place in his foreign

"if-

:^^^li0tb

A JAPANESE COURIER.

t4» LAKc.F.R orri.ook's OS mss/os/ipy lands.
dre8B,-0on.ething lik. a K,>m<.»uuan ,.r u IN.le, but nmch

darker fiiul Hhortt'r.

Tho labor. ,., a.,d enpecially ...o " riksha" men, are very
nmssive in their build, and tb<.ir lind.s are bko groat pdlar..
my run bko horacH. and go all over the land on tremendous

'""Many of the educated nu-n have very bright, intelligent
^ faces, and a manly b(>arnig ;

and while few Japanese men
aie fine-looking, their extra-
ordinary politeness, and their
easy and charming manners,
make them always attractive
and interesting.

A Japanese woman is a
pretty study. She is almost
always small. Indeed, they
all seemed to us like girls of
thirteen or fourteen. Their
dress is very like that of tne
men,— a loose robe, with im-
A JAPANESE QiRL. monso slceves that hang down

like wings. This robe is folded around her person, left quite
too oTen at the bosom, and fastened around the wa.st wjth a
sash which terminates over her loins in a g-at square bow,
X a cushion, and n.aking one feel tempted to thn.k that she
arries it to sit down upon when tired. Her face .s round
and fuU, always pretty, and all faces very much ahke. One

vns.

but much

n, are very
'OJit pillivra.
tromemlouH

, iutelligeut
ly bearing ;
puiiese men
tb(Mr oxtra-
5S, and their
ig manners,
/» attractive

woman in a
,l\o is ahnost
Indeed, they

like girls of
rteen. Their
e that t)f tne
^be, with im-
at hang down
son, left quite
i waist with a
t square bow,
think that she

face is round
;h alike. One

'/•///■: s/Tf : I /vox i\ japan.

543

would think it must be very dithcult t»» pick out one's friundt)
in Japan, the faces seem all so uniform. Her complexion is
generally rosy, her eyes small andalnuMul-Hhaped, but brij^ht

iind playful,
her expr<>«sion
kin<l, frank
and refined.
Her hair is
black as a coal,
and usually
combed up in
front in a sort
of Pompadour
fashion, and
tied behind in
a glossy roll,
orna m e n t e d
with flowers,
ribbons and
combs, vari-
ously shaped
accordingly as
she is married
or single, of
high or low

station. Her figure is usually plump and graceful, and she
is mounted on a high pair of stilts oi sandals, raising her
about three o^' four inches above the ■ ound, on which she

A JAPANESE WOMAN.

■■VBMIM

544

L^iRci^N orri.ooKS on Mfssmx.iA-y

/..iNns.

544 . J 1

hobbles about with studied shuffle, which i« conside^d K«od

.Japanese how i..thi„g neve, to he|o,.^u.^«.;^^^^^

ladies approach each
other in a room, and
l„>w low, till their
foreheads touch the
ground, and repeat the

ceremony two or three
times until you won-
der if they are ever go-
ing to speak. Much
of it, of course, is
mere form, and back
of it may lie a heart
full of hppocrisy and
hate. 'But it is often
very pretty, although
a good deal overdone.
Their mental
characteristics are
Frenchy. They re-
. ..PANEse MAN. mind you irresistibly

of the poUshed race ^^^^^Z^^^
They are very bright, .mck^.n^ell^-^^^^^^^

andenthusiast.c;veryref^n^^^^^^^^^^
of change, superficial,lackmg m teeung

THE srif A-rrox ixjirAX.

545

loi-ed good

1(1 studied.
It is quite
to see two
•oiich eacli
room, and

till their
touch the
d repeat the
wo or three
1 you won-
are ever go-
eak. Much
' course, is
n. and hack

lie a heart
ppocrisy and
it it is often
ty, although
eal overdone,
ir mental
•istics are
They re-
al irresistibly
of the world,
lious, intense,
isive, hut fond
iriDg strength.

A JAPANESE VILLAGE.

They have far outstripped the Chinaman at the start, but '
perhaps the Chinaman will win the race. , , ,

Yet their mental faculties are not to be undervalued.
Everything must he judged by facts and fruits and the
progress of Japan in a generation is phenomenal and un-
paralleled.

'.'.Tts^'^^m^^^s'^^vf^wi^mmmmin

Te. yea,. n.o we thou«.,t - ];-; ^^t:!*"
had to begin our studies ane\N

"°11nTl:1lt:Lpi.. ,yin« .out,, o, Corea and
Jai.an s an ^.^^^ ^ terntory of

about Ave •"'""^; ;;„„„«„„ „„ U„ge a, Germany.
J (50,000 square nnleb, ana a y \

"T— "ofrera. U,«e islands and a great many
It cons,st8 ot ^ _^^^j^j^ government : one

BmaU o,>es ^™ »ff ' j„ ^^, the sup.^rae head, dweU-

«pmtua., "V!''\tta a^Kyotorand a.mo;t worshipped ; the
i„g in sacred isolat.",! at Kjot ^ ^^^^^

othertemporal «,.d -- to 'eu ^^ ^„^ j^^p„^,

■J^L^rS:"--- a, it wasca„ed,_andits

n^eX'aXoe -^:- -jrrBar::;

-''-^'Ttl'f^lttte farr-chants. etc.
or gentry, and then ,nm , ^^. ^^^^ ^^„

^'*tr ^'Ay o — nt, patriotic and determined
''' Itol c^ghtened oligarchy, havi.>g carefully studied
men, a soit ot enug".. modern civihzation,

■ »* ''^^'^r "m^roTlTtir country steadUy for
have pressed th«' ''"'P« j^j ,e™lution so complete that
wardint«apol.t,caland ^a ^^_^ ^j_^^^ „^ i^

the customs and t'''^'*'™^;' ^ ^^.^ ^ united monarchy,
a single generatoon ^-^^^^^^eM English I^rda and

'.ANDS.

;h of this land
ouud that we
n, has revolu-

of Corea and

a territory of

B as Germany,

a great many
'^ernment : one
ne head, dwell-
■orshipped ; the
lilitary system,
>f the temporal
called,— and its

castes of India,
ne the Samurai

merchants, etc.
ings have been

and determined
carefully studied
dern civilization,
atry steadily for-
30 complete that
en thrown off in
imited monarchy,
nglish Lords and
presentatives, and

INTERIOR OF A JAPANESE HOUSE.
RcproducUon from a Japanese Painting.

I vi

*tl!

THE SirUAl I0^' IN JAPAN'.

AN AVENUE IN JAPAN.

547

a franchise much more wisely regulated than our universal
suffrage in America ; and along with the new political con-
stitution has come a national system of Customs. Post,-
offices, railways, telegraphs, telephones, police, and com-
mon school and higher education almost as complete as in
the western countries.

A weekly Sahbath has been appointed, and is kept as a

'^'^

mmmm

?he Na«,.,K,. M,nt at ^ TTJ^ .^. «u„boats,
and camum, ami V e ,v .th . K.^ ^^^^^ ^^^^^^ ^^^ ^.^^^^^^

,iii*"

»ISl2

■=S**s

5*^»SS*

THE "TOKA.DO," OR PUBLIC HIGHWAY, JAPAN.

,;!rtinW«B««««^-'

DS.

ished, and
r. Native
gunboats,
sof Krupp
ins to-day,
ss.andthJ^y

-"T^

THE STTVATrON IS' JAPAN.

549

,t. The great

students, and

g up to it, and

buted through

hiurch nfiedstc*

THE FALLS OF HAKONE.

seud medical missionaries to Japan or even to teach them
liigher education. They are imitating every western in-
vention, and even the modern bicycle is manufactured m
Japan, and sold at one-half the price it costs in America.

Thei. Ship..., t,.aa» i« K;"--,t:-^„^':for: ^d

i8 worthy of all praise. country. The first

wo have »Vok''" « " i tCty.' » U a very
thing 'hat 'mp-^se^ t « «^^ ^^ ^ ^^^.^„„^ ■

oflreon, its dwarf pines .t, nee « f/""! ,,a Inland

Sea,itBHakoneI^lceanaN.kkoMo ^__^

of comparison wth any other la"". J 4 ^^^

rrrs:::iitr:rnrst:;^^^^^^^^^^ an „h,et oe

Ch "r— inter^t. Its str^t. as a ruie, are Oean.

ana its houses attractive and pleasant,

A Japanese house is a perfect .deal of ta te
For a summer residence •' -""V?^ ha. no pa^al ^_^_^^

Jor winter use it must he often « J^d. " comfortable
modification before a f''™«";^ ";.,■: f^euine^
home. But in sunnner .t .s » P " ^^ » j^j^^, «, ad-

S^hrror::;; ::;r :h:^" ^"--e -— ''

hey run
rea, and
hey are
igineers,
e do not
progress

rhe first
is a very
jeeling in
tains and
ty. It is
;t3 shades
:e mosaic
nd Inland
re worthy
laint and
e it t^ the
object of
are clean,

nd beaaty.
I, although
leeds much
iomfortable
!8S, with its
ons, its ad-
apartment^

Tlir SiriATIOS' IS JAIWS'.

551

itH pivtty paper windows. an<l its stiitVcd niiittinK Hdois, soft
a» I'UsliioiiH, oil which tlu'y Hit without <hairs, and no one
ever ti-eads except with unshod feet. You always leave
your shoes outside a Japanese house, and the floors are
always clean. We noticed that even in the farm cottan.'S
the r()(jnis were neat and tidy, and the hoiu«' \\W of tlif p»'o-
ple seemed somewhat refined and comfortable.

Coming out of China to Japan seemed likt^ coming out
of a cellar into a garden of suushine. And to (-hange the
ttgure, China seemed like a great Colossus, always looking
backward ; Japan, like a bright steed, looking ever forward
and leaping out into the future in the face of the sunrise.

And yet China has taken hold of our heart, and we be-
lieve of the hearts of most Christian workers, as Jajjan never
can, and ins{)ir«'8 a confidence and expectation for the -e-
moter future which we beheve will be realized when Jai)iu
shall have swept through all the stages of her more ephemeral
and precocious growth, and have begun to show the reaction
of premature age.

There is one subject of which we nuist speak plainly
before we refer to the religious situation. We mean the
morals of Japan. We fear they are a frightfully irnrnor:.!
people. The dress of their women is very inimoilest ; and of
their men, often outrageous.

Their habits and customs in public baths are said to be
grossly improper, and their laws and ideas in regard to the
regulation of vice woi-se than even in India. The dress of
the people is not intended to be immodest. The worst thing

o,-rr.ooK's ox ia/.vs/oa./a')- /../.\7;5.

.,„,. .... ...« ,».t of a -;>«"• •^- " ve\v..n.utt,.,-.y »h,K.U«l

.,„., una »l...ul,l in .11 .-.v.!.";' ». ;'^,„.,i„„« ,.,.nted «

,. . ,;f,. t„ „.,,..v.. h..r f..tl e t"^^ „ t and

morals. tvinoug til'' i>'»"^* '

ana vice. awaifea aiul defective

We Lave been t<M ha tl. ^^ _^ ^^^^ ^^ ^^^

^^y^^'^^-'''X:\Z^Zn.^. the nation has pasHed.
,,^..Hof nnnm.aht> ^^'""^ ^^ j, A.noHtevery Japanese
We are strongly ten^.ted to ^^^^- ,^, j, ,Uape,

and hears the niatws

ancestoi-s. i,.riuential native Christians

We rejoice to k.u.w ^"•"*7"7*: "; .^ ,,,„,^i ,etorm as
.irintr in hr nn Jihout sucn a nioi.vi

are bravely working ^^»;'»'"^ the Mikado to the meanest
^iU sweep all the way down ^-'^ ^«J^ ^.^ ^^^^ ,,ierated
-He, and will a^oU^h l^ X.-.^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^_ ,,^, ,. .^
immorality m e • - >;rn . ^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^^^^^ ^^^, ^„„^,,,.
permanently gv . - ^^ ^^^^^^^.^^ ^^,,,. i,,„,,s.

hood, punfy '^^'^ .i.annu.,u.

,,MW«iiawi»^^-«'^"

Tin: sin .1 Tfox /\ / mix.

553

it, and
it. Tn-
nil lift'.
^nu«^ it

years to
i-es3, and
poet and
irt f«'asta
B live in
3 tone of
to laxity

(U'fective
lue to the
IS passed.
r Japanese
r in shape,
tiou ill his

Christians
[ reform as
ihe meanest
u\ tolerated

hope to he
her woman-
es.

mi^^ionary

^^oinK on to

irts .f the

Tl'.opulilKuUitua-ion in .l««i, us it uffe<tH foreiKiiers,
is brietly this: Tlnougli the la..t tr«.atics with foreign natioiis,
certain cities in the "mpire are <.|H,n for foreiKH trade, uiid in
all other placew foreign' is «'an only reside luuUi sptuiial pass-
ports. These passports ar»' of two kinds; vi/., travelling
l)assports, wl»ith have to l^e renewed every few nmnthH, and
ivsich'nce passports, which are only givn t« foreijcnnrs who
^o to tea<h in the interior in Japanese schools.

These restrictions have greatly hainpt
work in the interior, and an agitation ha. he.
Hecure treaty revision and free access i. al

country.

On the other hand, the Japanes*^ are much .1 satisfied
with some clauses in 1 .e treaty, notably one rehi to cus-

toms, giving a decuh I advantage to foreignei mother
allowing all foreigners i i Japan to live under i\v , .sdiction
of their respective consu s, and to he tried in all juti '^ial pro-
cesses before consular i mrts instead of native t .inals.
This, the Japanese feel, !• Us their own people to gn disad-
vantage in all issues with foreigners. And there hoen
growing up. for some tim -, considerable political ai. anti-
foreign feeling, until, two ears jig... it reached the i mt of
real irritation, which oc. asionally broke out in act of

hostihty.

There has been, doubtl. s, in the past two years, a strong
and favorable reaction, and a real friendliness between the
government of Japan and t e western nations, which is ut-
terly different from the nati. nal sentiment in China.

■ , 1 1,^ been copying wholesale the best ideas

J-l-";"*''on^ ltd flly acknowledges hev obliga-

of the western nations a^.d y ^^^^^.^^ ^^,„,a to

tions to them bhe sent a y ^^^.^ ^^^^^^ ^^^

study the institutions o£ '^e We* » the laws and jurjs.
— "rCeT — : a:T'indust.al .^,.^^-

rrm":sr::ti"rintoaho.„ogenous

Ta^:: t;:^- aid .aUe it tho..ugh,y national and a
sort of paragon and pattern to the worM. ^^

^at;r ;= --* r." -- »-

world in the New D-P--^^^ ,,^ ^^ ,„, ^^ dependent
^a so she ao<. — hjo^;;^^ ,,;„„ „„» everything
on foreigners, bhe is giau »-
„„st be subservient to *« Japanese^ ^.^_^^^.^_^

r ^'VrtTerT irthXry o, the opening ot
We need "» ^ere re ^^ ^.^^^^ __^^^ ^^^^ ^ ^^„„

foreign missions in Japan, .missionaries and

ation,the«. are to-day ^fT^^^X i^-^»^--^- Ahont one-
forty thousand native "^•^f ^"J '" ' ^^^^ Presbyterian

quarter of these Chri^*-; tlel— Board, and the
churches, about one-quaitf. to the A ^^^

rest are divided among a ««- «-«™ organized native
thousand Christians, however, -P-Bont au g ^^^ ^

force ,u.te out o' P-VK.*on * a„^*-f^,^^.^ . ^ ^^^^^
India ov China. Many ot them a. , k

ependent
^^erything

iuation.
(pening of
n a gener-
laries and
^bout one-
•esbyterian
id, and the
'hese fotty
lized native
we find in
in native

THE SITVATION IN J. \ PAS.

555

churches, which are entirely self-supporting, and are min-
istered to by their native pastors, and the fcneign mission-
aries aie simply overseers of the work or teachers in the
schools. Indeed, very many ot the foreigners are not even
recognized as overseers ; for the native churclies have as-
sumed the diiection of the entire work, and tht^ foreigners
aresimply advisory committees and friends, and the native
church takes the direction of the evangelistic and missionary
operations, as well as the pastoral work of the settled

churches.

The United Presbyterian Church has adopted an entirely
new creed as the basis of its imion, founded si i b-tantially on
the Apostles' Creed. It does not even recogni.-e the Western
Confession of Faith, but is bound together by a declaration
as simple and catholic as the constitution of our own Gospel
Tabernacle. In its Presbyteries, which control the entire
work of the church, the native pastoi-s and elders have seats,
and the foreign missionary has not even a vote unless he is
either a pastor or an elder, and very few of them are native
pastors, so that it can be easily seen an independent native
church has been growing up which is very rapidly getting out
of the hands of the Foreign Missionary Board.

In the American Board churches, which rank next in
number and influence to the United Presbyterian Churches,
there is even a stronger movement toward independence, and
the American missionaries are more and more feeling it, and
preparing for the hour when their presence will be no longer
needed. Indeed, very strong expressions of this kind have

•:

live and the con,pav.t.vely - -H «P™^» ° ,„„ .„ ,a, while
A teeiP'"*^'""'':''^''** ;r ™ two hundred yen-

. native V^^ -^^^ ^^Z^ f^<^^^ '^ ."-f
whichiaonlyabout*l...-.ng> ji^,„,t to see how the

„„daly at '""*'•'■ ""llonKuig fov independence, desiring to
growing native church. '»■«:"*: ', ^„ ^^ke the most

Leioparea, ^'^^X^^^^^^'"' ^"■"^"™^
„t all the money. »* ^ ^^i;,,, „„,i,,,e to fully understand
,„.an that ■^-;S:;:t;.cun,stances in which the for-
:tT::UWrsh:u,d he temped to .ay. ■^«ive us your

--•-"::;r:— -e'»pro,.a.^

In view ot all these ^^^^^ g^^.^.

,.^.t time ^ -^ -tr— Jl foreign element hy

»«-^°*'7:;, ^trff'a gradual transfer of the work to
degrees and 1-P;« f^^^^ ,,, g„i„g home and some may
native hand. A good y^_^ ^^.^„„,„,mw „y these sue-
not return. But even i j : jjfy their with-
,«rf„l missions is not yet '*"!^^^; ^ J, ,, /et only 20,000
drawal. Together these t«o ""^'"''l^^^J^'ovk has but
converts out of forty million peo,^. and ^h«r ^^ _^^^

begun. 0«1 must ha.. -- ^^^;X hear from some of
ing this difficulty. ^;'\;; ;:; J„„,ries the assurance that

the oldest -<•--;;'*„ he done by foreigners in Japan,
there was tuucU woik yet

e-iSTSST s-''' t"-«$rf-i-r'

it times
-n some
reigners
eachers.
id, while
,d yen-
pressed
how the
'Siring to
the most
imetiraes
iderstand
I the for-
. us yom-

bly at the
older soci-
iiement by
»e work to
soine may
these suc-
their with-
only 20,000
,rk has but
ay of meet-
om some of
turance that
rs in Japan,

THE sni-.rj/ox ixj.iPAX. 557

and undiminished need for their presence, counsel and in-
fluence.

The other missions and churches do not seem to have
felt so strongly or at all seriously tliis ultra independent
spirit. Perhaps there are reasons in their own methods of
work which will account for this. As we have looked at the
whole situation in Japan, we have had the following consider-
ations deeply impressed upon us as they affect the present
needs of the work in this land.

1. There is need for a deep si.iritual movement. Much
of the progress of Japan has been educational and intellectual.
Much of the work, even of the missionaries themselves, has
been to develop a young giant of philosophical culture and
theological smartness, who is in danger of growing too strong
for them. We could not help feeling almost everywhere m
Japan this sense of intellectuahsm and the cry our heart
was for the deeper, humbler, diviner strength c . ae spiritual
life, which crucifies the strong-headed will, v .ich lays ec-
clesiastical ambition in the dust, which baptizes with tender-
ness and love, and which brings the power, not of strong and
self-sufficient men, but of the Spirit of the living God. We
are sure that this and this alone will save the churches of
Japan from a great crisis, and that it must come upon the
missionaries as much as upon the native churches.

All over China we found the cry for this blessing on the
part of the missionaries. We have met a good many in
Japan of the same spirit, but not nearly to the same extent
as in China. Our heart's cry for this land is a deep spint-

Rii«ssr.-«iW«»*^

■mii

558 LARCr.R OUTLOOKS ox MfSSlONAR V LANDS.

,^1 movement, a aeepening of spiritual life, a separation
ual ^««^^"^^ l^. f„, ,,onal holiness and near-

frnm the worul, <i beeK-iiig ■< i i „4. ;+

.1 Ld as well as power and success. Lord, grant it
ZlTJ.^^rZ and'the Christians oi Japan. We are
s:mehol in,pressed that the,* has hecn --l-a.^'^

'"''Ch:v:X'^d'at home that the only t™e source of

Ifulmistions is a spiritual movement in the church A

:;S^r hrrZrch wm p«>duce ItseU ab«>ad. And a

THE SITVATION IN JAPAN.

559

paration
nd near-
grant it

We are
rely little
I. There
ies whose
eiy clear,
id united
c opinion
help and

the mis-

9tudy, but
lired.

movement
and such a
■sin South-
^ the older
8 Mr. Ishii,
consecrated
lers we met
any other
scatter the

le source of
e church. A
)ad. And a

worldly church will have like cliildivii in heathen lands. It
is not very strange that when many of the Japanese students
came to America, and found at Harvard and Yale a cold and
indifferent type of Christian life, and a very broad and
liberal theology, they went back to Japan to tell their people
that they had been practicing too rigid a religion, and that
the high-toned Christianity of America's best circles was a
very much freer and easier style of thing. Is it any wonder
that the Japanese mind became saturated with such ideas,
and a fruitful soil was prepared for the rationalism, the
Unitarianism, the higher criticism and the indifferentism
and worldliness that h ave- alas !- made much headway
already in this bright new land. How were these children
to know the difference ?

The remedy for all this is going to be found in the Holy
Ghost. We rejoice to believe that a strong, united and un-
compromising party of men and women is being gathered
by the Holy Ghost from all the missionaries in Japan. This
is the spirit of Mr. Buxton and his workers in the north-
west, and his brave, true testimony has been made a great
bles^ng already to the missionaries ad well as to the natives.
This, we trust, will ever be the spirit of our missionaries
in Japan'. And this has been the testimony of many others
whom, perhaps, it would be invidious to name, but whom,
we believe, God would unite heart to heart and hand in
hand to seek for Japan her greatest blessing— the enduement
of power from on high.

2. Along with this, the next greatest need of Japan is a

. • +Vi« fioKDel to the \uaoc-
bold aggressive n>ovo,nent to g.ve the Go«,.eI
o„piedfleld» and the neglected cUsBe. ^^^ ^ ^^

Ve.y much has '--' .*™ J\!, had sup,K,»ed. We
evangelism in ^='^7 ' ^^ to«ns and villages in all
we,, delighted to "-J™^°a the Ueaty ports, had
parts ol the empire, a d ai bey ^^^^^^^ .^ ^^^^

been occupied successfully. Thue ^^^^ ;„

world nearly so ->' -^t f^ thout nJonaries, and
Japan. ''^^--J^"';: Tlhvvest coast, that we hope
it is to some ot these, on tn^

immediately ';«-':t::,::tt\t:^^^^ been cached at
But there is one eiemoi anomaly

aU, and that is "« ^iX a ^afnot been given to
amo»«— to hfientT-the samurai class-and the
the. poor, but to t^e gent ^ „„evangeh.ed. There are
common people are yet manuy ^^ ^^^^

W- ».«.-o» yi»'.™« ';^-; :„^Cdo„r to the betU,r
have been reached «°f *"* Xly entered it. But He .s
classes, .f *«*:;* trllsionary movement which
calUng to-day, «e believe, tor a Japanese

wm go wider and 'o--.-™ ^ teaching them to go
themselves an unspeakable "'*»«»« Christianity and

to their humbler brethren in the spirit
lead them by thousands to Jesu^ ^^^ty i, japan (or

3. We believe there is a special opp ,^_^^ ^^

'"^ "'^^''%'e' ::::: "rirstVe number is Umil.^

MMB

THE SI TV ATI OX IS' J- 1 PAN.

56T

i vmoc-

ri-easive-
d. We
es in all
•rts, had
in the
even in
ries, and
we hope

Bached at
anomaly

I given to
-and the
There are
V of these
the better
But He is
lent which
r Japanese
them to go
,tianity and

II Japan for
srlandBiich
r is limited,
ssionaries in.

India or China would shout for joy if they could conunand
them. We believe God is going to raise up and ])repare a
great many more, and send them out by hundreds and thou-
sands as the future evangelists of Japan. We trust our own
work in Japan may be able very largely to utilize and em-
ploy these laborers. And it is our prayer that the work of
Mr. Ishii may become largely a missionary work, and may
train and send forth large numbers, not only of his own boys,
but of others, baptized with his own spirit, to preach the
Gospel in the power of the Holy Ghost in all the unoccupied
regions of Japan.

4. And wo believe that God is calling His people in Japan
to simpler methods cvn.d lives of humbler, holier separation
from the world. Our herrts are too full of love to our dear
brethren r.broad, and wc> b: ve too deep an appreciation of
their trials, iiardship,:; r.nd unsellish purposes, to criticize
their methocis of li\ ing. Bui, we boliove tlmt the fact that
there have been inch criticisms, hof-h from the natives and
from other novices, -ho Jd mc.kc> uo all wilhng to learn any
lessons God has for ns, and to set such an example of sim-
plicity, economy and separation irom the world as will make
the line of demarcation abroad as sharp as it ought to be at
home between the humble follow :r of Jesus and the fashion-
able friend of the world.

We have already said that the t;ost of living in Japan is
much higher than in most other mission fields, and we are
wiUing to concede all that is reasonable and necessary for
comfortable and healthful homes, foreign food, winter fires

WBKKtmHmmmmm

r-*!^

. . „llin.. Eveiv true mtasionaiy should to kept
and extra traveUing. ''^^'', ,, . „„ K„t eleaant man-
f ran. all need or c:are about these ""»«; J"' '^^ ^„,,,,

lonj! summer vacations, ana boi,.

unnecessary. j^^^g „( mission-

We have no doubt ^at 'here a. j,, temptations

aries he.., a. elsewhere and p«^^^^^ ^ ^^^^ ^^

a„a the freer social We o£tta-^^^^^ ^^„,^„,,i„„

^„,e farther across ">« Ch..st,a„ ^^^ ^^ ^ ^^^^^ .„

^''""r'ratror Xrinate'cHticisms, but in the
sweeping chaiges or m ^^^. • ^ example of the niea

„^est. consisi^nt -^™— Hrfntatlnd to live a

,„d women whorn God h-.™. brethren and before the
true missionary Me ''f'°'" '".,,,„ j,i,,„ to prove to the

heathen. We '*'-'» "'^V^f "^V^^t and, at the same

.orld that ^«*;"t:,r^^ar"'ia Jalpan asweUas
ttae. econom^a^woiU «>.n^ca ^^^^^^ ^^ ^^^ ^^

i„ India or China^ A ^_ ^^^^ ^.^^^ „^t,,.

Boards said to us, only a ^^^ ^^^^^

preachers could be sustained fo the amou^ ^.^^

Uives asasalary,and th t^ --;^^^^^^^^ ^^^ ^^
lUm whether he ought not oie^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^ ^_^^ ,„^..

could not be done by the^gh^ ^_^^ ^^^^^ ^_^^

eigner. ^«f;,-"^X "^Wch botU classes can be em-
method should <« ^ "'""^^ *" ^thout the sacrifice of
ployed, and yet the ut-^ — ^^^ .^ u,,ble is

THE srrU AT/ON IN JAPAN.

563

1 be kept
int man-
is courts,
urely are

: inission-
mptations
1 have led
marcation
e found in
)ut in the
of the men
d to live a
before the
»rove to the
; the Bame
a as well as
one of the
sight native
lich he alone
lestion with
: more good
the one for-
ut that some
8 can be em-
le sacrifice of
practicable is
Let us pray

that their experiment maybe so successful that the result
will be full of encouragement for the future work of foreign

laborers in Japan.

What is the prospect of the evangehzation of Japan? It
seems brighter than that of any other foreign country. With
tact and wisdom almost every part of the interior can now
be reached. The truths of Chiistianity are fairly understood
by the reading portion of the nation. The sentiment of the
people is not so anti-Christian as it is anti-foreign. A native
Christianity is fairly popular. Buddhism, Shintooism and
the ancient faiths have lost much of thoir power. There is
none of the Caste difficulty we meet in India. There is none
of the desperate antagonism we find in China. There is a
fair disposition to listen to the truth almost everywhere.
Converts are much more quickly won than in all the other
fields Much can be done through an interpreter while the
language is being acquired ; and yet we would advise all
missionaries to learn it and use it as soon as possible. Na-
tive workers can be obtained more easily than in any other
field At present our advice would be to send comparatively
few new foreigners, and only those of the very highest class,
and ever to utilize native workers as much as possible, and
by judicious oversight scatter them widely through the yet
unoccupied districts of the land.

We believe Japan will be evangeUzed before the end of
the century, and that a blessed missionary movement ^ill go
forth from its people, which God will use to reach the mil-
lions of Corea, and the vaster myriads even of interior China
with the light of the Gospel.

wmm'^

5^4

BEAUTIVUI. JAPAN-
All her 1.1.-. ar« »J^^^!°^m t,„ chlKlron ..n ».-.

■^Blie «o»ia r«ln °"*"'''f *,Ve,briBl>»«t«"l'»"

. „„.v vhat a charm there linger*
Land of wondrous ^;*"^y;;;;*Jower and tro. !

Over every landscain-, ^^^'^ ^ ^^on thte
But . brlsbt^r «^-y - t^xnt^Jn, o^thy Inlan.l Sea.

Tl. ^n thy cloud-capped moun ^^^

•Tis ine Father's «^^Z^Xleemine Love ;

,TiB the blessej^^to;y^«4«^^^^^^^^^ wfavenly Bunri- ;
^£etCn ^e%r;ehfnioK fro. ahove.

At the gates of Asia, ^^-ZVl^7J^oZ^^-'^

God has Beth^X tS and Corea's mUlions
China's teeming «^y' ff^;^ ^o the Bon of Man.

Wait for her to 1««^*{ *f J^J^ ^^ claim thy calling,
Rise to meet t^^ '"'«tn;Sing on the van ;

,Mid Mlllenn al "^^^^ Jthe^Coming Kingdom,
First to -"^t^h the Bunrise o^ ^^^^ ,

Islands of the Morning, oe"

XXK

HOME COMING.

THE voyage across i\w Pacific lasted nineteen days, and
was broken almost niidw..y by a short' stay at Hono-
Inlu, in the Sandwich Islands. Oni- stoainship was the
"Oceanic" of the Oriental and Occidental Line, San Francisco.
She is fairly comfortable, but by no means a quick boat, and
our greatest speed only slightly exceeded three hundred miles
ji day. She was the first of the o(u^an racers of the White Star
Line, but her engines have been greatly reduced in power
And she is now chiefly a cargo boat.

The ships of this line are net coini)arable with the splen-
<lid ocean queens of the Empress Line, and we should cer-
tainly advise all our fiiends bound for th«^ Orient to take the
Canadian Line, if possible. They make the trip in about a
week less than the San Francisco boats, and all the arrange-
ments are in » measurably supiirior. We had about fifty pas-
sengers on bouid, including seven or eight Japanese gentle-
men. The weather was only moderate, and the Pacific
Ocean did not maintain its reputation for pacific qualities,
l)ut tossed and squalled a little worse than we have usually
.seen in the Atlantic, especially in summer, but we had almost

sot used to the sea, in a journey, nearly half of which was

565

5**** 1 tVi.. leisure f()r oiir

highest. Throe Sabbath, ^"^'^^fj^.^^.^o.. «<rvteo until
tife m.t, no effort wa, "!«'« "^ ^^ ,;, J, to permit u« to
the evening, wl>en we ^'J'L, hu* "o more than two
gather a little company m the saloo , ^^ ^^^ ^^„^„^

"or three ot the t»-"«"" * nW ot ^^ J'>P»-" "" '""'•
and the audience oons.rted ma.nly ,.--i^-ft.

HONOLULU.

.he.econd.ab,«thw.chie«y^;;n.^

8pon«e to our earneet apl«". ' , ^^ g„t m used,

I the Sunday cricket «'''"J;'>";Xbbath in this way, that
J San Francisco, t» speudmg the ^ ^^ ^^^_^ _^^^^^^^^^

h« did not see any harm u.^^^^^ ^^^ ^,,^ ^„^„,, ,„d th.
in the long story oi vii« »

jfBseaaSKt'S

for «mr

[w very
and oil
[;o until
it UH to
tian two
ofticers,
n board.

lin, purser
mg cricket
\xe evening

, and in re-
ted to give
got BO vised,
is way, that
ther chapter
liah and thft

HOME COMING.

567

Americans abroad, and as we looked ut that little <N„npan>r
of Japanese devoutly worshipping God in the midst of
American ungodliness, we thought the day might indeed
come wheu we should see companies of Japanese and Chinese
missionaries coming to America to preach the Gospel to the
heathen of this land.

Our stay at Honolulu was very pleasant. The day w is
charming, and the climate of the islands is, indeed, superb
It IS, probably, the finest in the world. The thermometer
ranges from seventy to eighty most of the year. It is never
cold and it is never disagreeably warm. The trade winds
continually blow across the islands, and maintain a perpetual
breeze which is most refreshing. The vegetation is tropical
and luxuriant, very much likt. Hong Kong, and almost as
rich as Singapore.

We took a drive to the mountain behind the town, and
looked over the brilliant panorama of valley, hill and shoiv
The picture was a very prett> one. At our feet the city lay
embowered in palm groves ; and, just beyond, the water was
gently breaking over the coral reef which surrounds the
island, and which looked like a beautiful necklace of dia-
monds, while the lagoon between the reef and the shore was
the richest green ; and, beyond, the waters of the grtjat
Pacific sparkled in the glorious sunshine in every tint, from
the deepest blue to purple and crimson, at the far-off horizon
Une where the ocean met the sky, and the exquisite bhie of
the glowing firmament was fretted and chased with many-
colored clouds.

:;68 i..4KaKK o,:Ti.onh-s o,v MissroN.iK-yrAKDS

Two imndi-ed miles »outh of Honoluh., on »"»«'« *^-
,a„d, is the g.anae,t volcano in the ««*V — J ^^
,«,.ty stopped off to visit it. .ml we heavd »»>« "-' ^™
descriptions of its majesty and gx^ndem- I* ^. "^;
lake of «.e, and its h.rid light illummates the n.ght with tei

""" We found the islands agitated alK>ut the question of an_
nexation to the United States. We had the opportunity of
sp^ng with some of the leading >.sidents on the govern-
mS side, and we have also met a nmnher of members o^
he opposition party. We believe the £o.^.gn .-esidents are
rgl in favor of annexation, but there is a considerable
plrty even of these, who are opposed to it, and neariy aUthe
C' planters rega.-d it as likely to p.-ove fatal to the bus.^
,et! of the islands, as it will exclude the Japanese a^d
" htoese laborer on whom they enth-ely depend for the cult.-
ta^ of the plantations. We hav. no doubt that annexa-
Z under the Geary law. which ^^'^^-^^^^^'^ l^^^.
tion would he fatal to the prosperity of the islands ; but .£
that' outrageous act we,-e abolished, and the restncfon upon
t e in«,mh,g of the Japanese and Chinese removed we be-
: would be to the interest of the islands to ,o.n he
rmerican republic, and we ar. sure it would g,ve t^ the
t "ited States an influence in the East wh.cb would be of
immense advantage. j + „„

It is impossible for oxxe who has not gone abroad to ap-
preciate the value to Great Britain of her colonial posses-
n A chain of miUtary stations hterally girdles the

MWNi

►ther is-
l of our
thrilliug
erally, a
mth ter-

>n of an-
bunity of
3 govem-
mbers of
ients are
isiderable
rly all the

the busi-
mese and

the culti-
t annexa-

immigra-
ds ; but if
3tiou upon
ed, we be-
o join the
ive to the
ould be of

•oad to ap-
lial posses-
girdles the

world, and gives to Great Britain a connnanding influence
among the Oriental nations which can scarcely be exagger-
ated, and which to a great extent constitutes the glory of the
British Empire. The American abroad is constantly made
conscious of the absence of all these on the part of his own
country, and the opportunity afforded in the Sandwich Isl-
ands, at present, for the United States to hold the key to the
Pacific Ocean is one that ought not lightly to be thrown away.
We found the desire for annexation on the part of the Amer-
ican people very intense, and the feeling of disappointment
at the coolness with which the proposal was received at
home is very strong and painful.

We believe the American government is giavely weigh-
ing the whole situation, and we have reason to hope that
they will act with fairness and wisdom. No words can too
strongly express the outrageous excesses of the late dynasty,
and the thoroughly corrupt queen who was dei)osed last
January through the storm aroused by her own despotic and
reckless course.

All the islands put together, however, do not amount to
very much, numerically at least. The whole population does
not reach to 100,000, and as one looks over the Blue Book
there seem to be almost as many officials as there are citizens.
The resources of the islands are, however, considerable.
Sugar is the principal product, and \^Y^\or to the recent tariff
system, immense fortunes were made by the planters.

The principal value of this little country is its strategic
position as the key to the great Pacific Ocean, and the island

MMM

■

5^0 ,^,C,R OUTLOOKS W M,SSrONARy LANOS.

«o,M To Great Britain it woulA be a point of vast import^

::. and i, She «et. the "P.— ^: ^X^ tZ\^
will not be slow to improve it To th« '••'^«"; ^^^^^

paradise, and if ^"'> ^:;^];^Z^,^Z^^^ -^
Mmy air and gaze on glorious veg j j

tain a ve.7 pleasant existence on «-« "J^";^, ^^

even Honolulu soon grew tiresome to ^^'^^^J^l^ l^,

when the hour came to take o„r ^ave ^^^^^^^^s

The most ,,leasant nrcdent ot «";^?' ^7 „ b„^m

hospitality of the hind "—»-"- irhJTand took us
who received us most c.n-d,ally *-^h«u home

"T ""^^S:irJ^— .:. Thereis'als„ag«,d
work among the Chinese oi n ^^ ^^^^

-^ among tHe f ;-^^^^^^^^^^

'Ifnrit::'^^^^^^^^^^ -more thriUing story oC

extmct. Iherc is ^^^ evangehzatiou

modern missions than the account

of the Sandwich Islands and the laboi. of th.
can missionaries. ^nlendid mce, and tlie

These islande,. ~f ::^'„ ^j':; physical' develop-
"^i:""Jn a,: tT^antic Itm^. and the women
r: Of g1: si.. It is said that the e..,y .«.ns met by

'•'^ t:rrarH::^'::i:":rmad: .. st..

^r.A thnir morals are simply mdebcnbaoie. j

^;::u,"pe.>pK and when the time came for onr

Lniport-
em, she
an ideal
breathe
t main-
33. But
ere glad

voyage,
ourteous
in Board
I took us
excellent
so a good
} are fast
•obably bo

story of
igelization
st Ameri-

e, and the
i\ develtip-
le women,
ms met by
;ht, and we
, the state-
ler a coarse
They are a
me for oiir

>
<

z
c
m

r
Z

I
o
z
o
r
t:

HOME COM INC.

571

steamer to leave, the send-ott" was characteristic. The
wharf was crowded with hundreds of ]»eople, and everything
had a gala appearance.

A band of music was playing the liveliest airs, and
every one who came on board was garlanded with the most
gorgeous wreaths of flowers, and amid music and brightness
we were sped on our journey by these genial and hospitable
people. It seemed as if their heart was turning homeward,
and they were caUing to their mother-land to receive them
and recognize them as her children. Swarms of naked boys
followed in the wake of our ship as we left the harbor, diving
for pennies like the little African urchins that we had seen
at Aden. At length we were off again, and before sunset
the bold heights of Diamond Head had disappeared beyond
the horizon, and the blue waters of the Pactific Ocean were
again surrounding us on every side.

Eight days more brought us to the Golden Gate, and our
hearts were strangely moved as we gazed on the Seal Rocks
at the entrance of the harbor, and at length rounded the pro-
montory and saw just before us, lying in a beautiful basin,
the teriaced streets of San Francisco.

We had just an hour to catch the eastern-bound train,
but again the kind Providence of God assisted us, and as the
sun went down we found ourselves sweeping homeward
through the Sacramento Valley, while that beautiful Ameri-
can sunset seemed like a smile of welcome. And as we rode
for six days aero? ■! the mighty continent we wondered how
the world had done so long without America.

■ w« brok. o,u- journey tor an hour or two, in Chicago to
T 1 UM,- Moody and other friends to arrange fo. the
meet with Mi . Moooy Ji t A„„„flt inth We spent

e„n,ing International Convenfon o£ ^^^^'^^ J, „„
the Sabbath in Canada, m our od "^■"'''f "!>",„ ,,^„d,
.he following Monday we ':-^:^^^^^Z. them

;:=:T;:drr:r^^^^^^^^

'"'' UZtr::^':^ ... that we haveheen just two

— "-n nf\S'r: rro-Th^dr-

,„.e„ thousand nnle. of winch mo ^^ ^^.^

l«.n on seas and ^'"''''"'•''^^'J^^,^ ,,tffe„„t vessels ■, have
boani, and a ,»»senger .m t^o"*^ ^^ „,; j^ ^Hh

passed through fourteen great "''*'°"; J" 'J^^^j fifteen

seas and oceans ; have crossea n ,v , ^„

three hundred and «=;'>• <';/;:::;;™ u^^o the North
through almost eve,-,- .hmate, '™' "^ j^ ,„i,3i„„.

Temperate zone and ''•^ '""^jf^^f^L representing a
,,es and P--~f^j;t :,::aand flfty'milUons, or
population o£ moie tj-"" *■' ^ ^^ i„ „u these changing
one-half the populafon of '^ fob- J^ ^ „,.

scenes and circumstances, '■"'""; ""^^^.^ „, even to
permitted us to 'o-. ->;;-*::l"w:Lnot thank
miss a single -— ,^^^- ™^ ^l, ,„,, not only over
rb::tfrt:!"ends and precious interests that
were left in His hands in tho homeland.

HOME COM IXC,

573

go, to
)r the
spont
md on
hands
I them
e than

st two
thirty-
is have
mship-
i ; have
}d with
I fifteen
ude and
ve been
le North
mission-
enting a
Uions, or
changing
ed us or
• even to
lot thank
only over
i-ests that

OIj, may Hn lit'li» us both toguthor to )>r«'ss on to Ktill
greater things for this lost world, wliich He h;is porinitted
US to see only that we nught make these needs nu»re real to
the hearts of His people at home, and help them mo o faith-
fully to fulfill their sacred trust for its evangelization and for
the hasting of that glorious hour when this wonderful and
beautiful world shall be redeemed from the curse that rests
upon it, and realize the glorious i)urpose for which it was
created and redeemed !

One of the strangest incidents of our journey is the gain
oi a day in the circuit of the world. In our (")ri«nital diary
we reached home on Tuesday, but by the Western Calendar
it was only Monday. Somewhere out on the Pacific Ocean
we had to drop a day. Wo had overtaken the sun and
gained a day, and so wo had two Thursdays in one week. It
is quite an unusual thing for us, in our busy life, to have a
day to spare, but we trust we shall henceforth be found not
behind time, but at least a day in advance. It won't hurt
our self-importance as Americans to remember that our
friends in China and Japan, that we think so slow, are
nearly a day ahead of us in the march of Time, and while it
ib night here it is morning there.

We wish the Christians of America o<juld realize how
very small a portion of the world lies within the circumfer-
ence of their little circle.

Beloved, let us enlarge oui- vision ; let us see this great
world as God sees it ; and in the arms of our intelligent faith
and His infinite love, let us claim it all for Him.

574

LARGER Ol'TLOOKS O.^f MrSSIONARV LANDS.

Brothers, let ub ntretoh our lieart-etrJngH.

Wide as human woe ;
All around thli world of sorrow

liOt our blessing go.
Dver every land and nation

B* His flag unfurled ;
Send the (Joepel quickly, widely,

All around the world.

._,j.m.LUi ' i"

XXXI.

THE MISSIONARY OUTLOOK.

HOW does the world appear to one who has endeavored
to look at it with the Master's eyes, and in the larg-
est vision of faith and hope ?
Well, it certainly looks very dark, and if we were work-
ing for its salvation under the existing agencies, we should
say, very hopeless.

There is no part of it which looks more hopeless than
what we call Christian lands. After centuries of pi-eaching
and teaching, America and England are farther from a
spiritual millennium than they have been for a century.

WHAT HAS BERN ACCOMHLISHKD ?

Doubtless very much. In one hundred years it has been
estimated that perhaps as many as ten millions of souls in
heathen lands have come under the influence of the gospel,
and nearly half that number have perhaps been saved.

The most important centres in India, China, Japan,
Burmah, Siam and Polynesia have been occupied, and many
of the most difficult and remote regions of Central Africa
have become missionary centres.

.575

An arn.v of seven thoum.nrt foroiK.. intaio.mri.^ prfl"
the «*r, "na ton, tho„»a„a native a,..U„t« a„. wo*,n.

""Vh™iu.a,o» of Cluist give annually *>.. ;-""- 'W»

work :,:.! nearly two hundn„l »o..,ietie, a.e w,.Un„ to evan-

""" Thtir:!. in.ee<i, if we ,.„,e,„l.e,- the ,on,.ition of

tHi„r«:tone huna,.. --X:":.':--" «' ^^
«„t n>i«sionarie., «">"' ""'^^ ;„ beneficence.

■ aeln which have marked the progress of the century, the
hS^rP evidential and Pentecostal story of Mada^scar,
Tahiti Fil the New Hebrides, and the Sandw.ch Islands ; o
M^aU Uvingston, McKay and McCanU the story of the
Zlt^. trmger the Con«o, and the African Lake m.s.
t^s of the Telegus, the Tamils, and Northern „d.a ; of
Zmah and Siam;ot Morrison, Medhurst, and the Chma
M™d Mission ; and last of all, the marvelous transformation
^lanan in a single generation ; truly it may be weU 6a,d
IX'e hav: be'en no fa.ts since apostolic times so stert-

ter of the nineteenth centuiy.

WHAT YET UKMAIN8?

And yet, when we look at the other side of the picture,
tv,«rfi is nothing on earth 80 dark. , . «

* MohammeLnism has increased more than tl.nty md-

s girdleff
worlnnj;

It for this
; to evan-

ulition of
ne of the
on of $60
iticence.
I incidentfl
Qiury, the
idagascar,
slands ; of
»ry of the
Lake mis-
i India ; of
the China
sformation
well said
es so start-
)nary cliap-

tht picture,
thirty mU-

THF. A/ISSIO.y/tJ^y orTLOOK.

bll

lions in one hundred years, wl.ile it i. doubtful if C hr.st.an.ty
has won one thouHand souls from itn ranks in all tins period.
Heathenism has gained two hundred n.ilHons m the cen-
tury while Christianity has won ten millions from its ranks
Christian lands have grown in wealth and power, hut
have made ecpial progress in wickedness and worWliness ; so
that to-day the most fearful examples of immorality and
vice in heathen lands, and the most powerful obstacles to the
progress of missions are to be found in the lives and influ-
ence of our own people in these countries.

Notwithstanding the progress of modern missions to
day, the destitution of the best evangelized foreign lands is
appalling Even India has hundreds of thousand, of villages
that have never heard the gospel. The interior provinces of
China are only yet manned by little bands of half a dozei.

lone workers. . .

Two vast provinces in China hav- no missionaries what-

^""^^hil "t, Anam, Nepaul, Bhotan, the PhiUppine Islands,
most ', Borneo and New r: linea are in utter darkness.

The vast Soudan, with its 90,000,00.) of people, is only
fringed with less than a score of missionaries, and thousands
of tribes throughout Central Africa have never seen the face
of a white man, or heard of Christ.

We have just passed through lands which contain a
population of '750,0(K),000 of heathen souls, and no language
can describe the immensity of the destitution and the con-

jtEStJ'e

wmmtm

578 l.^^^^^ OUTLOOKS ON MrSSrONARY LANDS.

f +hP utter vvreck of this falleu world which
sciousness of the utiei xmc^-"^

everywhere oppresses one.

A hundr'^d thousand souls a day
Are passing, one by one, away

la Christless guilt and gloom ;
Without one ray of hope or light,
In darkness deep as endless njght,

They're pabslng to their doom.

We should certainly count upon centuries if we were
.oinrfoxt-ith the hope of bringing all men to recede the
fo'Tjesus as their Saviour and King, and we should be very
strongly tempted to begin with the rising generation, and
through the cLdren prepare for influencmg future genera-

"^ ::redtational missions as the natural audlo^-

.. nf a belief in the final conversion o£ aU the

"^' rth-^l! the chn,.h and the establishment o£ a

■ B"* "«/" "!* andit we are to do effective work, we
rl^lXd— and work in harmony with the plan

of our great Leader.

GOD'B PLAN FOR I^HK WORLD'S KVANGELIZATION.

human race under the f^^^ J ^y ^he tribes of

7DS.

irld which

THE MISSIONARy OUTLOOK.

579

if we were
( receive the
ould be very
3ration, and
bure genera-

ral and logi-
a of all the
hment of a

ptural stand-
ve work, we
vith the plan

A.TION.

of the whole
ut rather the
1 the tribes of
he nations, of

the company of Christ's elect so speedily that the Lord's
coming may be immediately hastened, and the promised
kingdom brought in which will accomplish for the world
in a single generation more than all our work could do in a
hundred centuries.

If this be the true standpoint of missions, we are not
called to build up great educational institutions, and aim
slowly to spread in the minds of heath n peoples the princi-
ples of Christianity, and lead them gradually up to the Gos-
pel. But our business is to strike once for the present gener-
ation of men and women in whom God's Holy Spirit has al-
ready been preparing by His secret touch for the reception of

the Gospel.

Thoughtful missionaries tell us that there are such people

to be found among all heathen nations ; men and women like
Cornelius, who are "devoutly seeking God and feeling after
Him, if haply they might find Him," and when the Gospel
comes they recognize it as the voice of the unknown God
whom they ignorantly worshipped.

We know not the number that shall compose "the full-
ness of the Gentiles," but we know God has a people among
all nations, and that He is gathering out the first fruits in
this dispensation : and when the Master comes the full har-
vest will be gathered in, and the great Feast of Tabernacles
will celebrate the glorious end through the happy millennial
world.

THE SCRIPTURAL PLAN.

That this is the true Scriptural conception of missions,

,80 ...-- ovr,.oo.s OS- M,ss,on.<.v .as..

'" *:r:f t" « v« the ae,.ne. .. U.e out ot

them a peovlo to «*- "^™';; ., j„, ^^e .pedal purpose ot
This is just a Ms>t, am j^ ^ temporary

taking out o£ «'-' ^tu « "ea -"* the Apostle Paul
aispensation. It - '"^J^in Komans, chapters ix to

expresses '" J-^-t^l^eL in part has happene.! unto
ri, where he says ^^ ^^^^ ,„

Israel unt.1 the tUuess of ^ ^^^^ ^^.^^ ^^^^ ..Jerusalem

And so the Loid Je.u. ^^^^^.^ ^^^^ ^.__^^ , „^

shall be trodden down of the Wen

Gentiles be tuWlW-' ^^.^^^^^ .^pWly for-

Hence «e find the »="5 ^ ^ ..^ the regions be-

ward in a P^^' ^f^^^ Z^Tli,^ a rapidity that has

-f;si:ercf>r.^'-— -'^^
"1;;: r=r.ir h::itinct,y tou .. . «» Bivme

plan in the next chapter. ^^^ tabernacle

1 bI^:- --- -^^^^^^^^

nt: is the ,— ion of ^^;-^^^--z:st^

rr^ato^r.— ;::fr..HLse,f.

THE MISSIOSARY OUTLOOK.

581

Testa-
uldress

out of

i-pose of
nporary
tie Paul
ers ix to
led unto

erusalem

•\e

pidly for-
sgions be-
that has
;s of their

the Divine

tabernacle
\e breaches

lit people —
i, and to be
f.

So the Apostle Paul has also said : "And so all Israel
shall be saved ; for it is written, I will send unto Zion a De-
liverer, and He shall turn away ungodliness from Jacob."

But there is still another stage of development in this

great plan.

James has also sketched it with a bold, clear hand, where
he adds "that the residue of men might seek after the Lord,
ijud all the Gentiles upon whom my name is called, saith the
Lord, who doeth all these things. Known unto God are all
His works from the beginning of the world." (Acts xv,

verses U to 1>.)

This last section unfolds ihe great hope of the world and
its universal salvation. It tells us of the time when the resi-
due of men and all the Gentiles shall come to the Lord. That
is not to be until the tabernacle of David is rebuilt and the
Lord Himself has come.

Tf therefore, we would hasten the universal salvation of
on. d*.., and the restitution of our globe to its long-lost
peace and righteousness, there is but one way to do it,— to
call out of the Gentiles, as quickly as possible, the people
for whom Christ is waiting, and so hasten His return, and
with it the blessings which His advent will bring, and which
we never can anticipate without His iiersonal presence.

A I'KACTUABLK I'LAX.

Now this plan is practicablc\ and inmiediately bo.
The conversion of the world is beyond our power, but
the evangelization of the world, so as to bring the Gospel

in oar grasp. Anrt whUe .n «»'"'' ^^ „, ^ movement

been waiting. , -limine at the less ;

^awhile we can.^0 ^"^^ „„,i,,a attack upon a sin-
line successfully, we may, "J

gle strategic point, carry the -hole nv^ ^^^^ „,

The veal strategic po.nt « tt-'^"' „f the Bride

«.e Lord, and the gathering ou^o-U lands^^^^ ^ ^^^^^

„£ Jesus, the flndmg out "^^^^^Iv ot His chosen ones
to caU, the completmg o *h;nun^b;j His own return,
among the nations, »<>*";" .J.t „„ that distinct and
AU this throws a ^°^^'°^ '« j Himself mad-
unmistakable promise wh;^ Jta L" ^^ the Kingdom must
t!he:^arr:uthe"orld,ar a witness among anna.

tions, and then shall the end "me^ ^^^ j,^,^

Under this banner, and »». ™' " . „^, „hich repre-
0.ostisto.daym^<.ringthem^s.nar^^^^^^^ ^, ^^_^

^„t the blessed hope "* '"l^Xe in a wise, concerted and
cherish this hope umte » **-» >"^^ ■;^ hope to see the

.holly consecrated moven^^^^^^^^^^ l^ ^^^ ^^^^^,

consummation o£ the gianaehi

hope of all the ages.

is with-
Beem a
veraent
I larger
B of the
las long

the less ;
enemy's
on a sin-

oming of
,he Bride
3 waiting
)sen ones,
•eturn.
itinct and
self made
dom must
ng all na-

the Holy
hich repre-
Bt all who
Lcerted and
; to see the
B sublimest

THJ-: MISSIO.XAh'V orrLOOK.

583

To accompUsh this will involve tremendous efforts, even
in a single generation, but we believe it is not impracticab e.

India, for examples which represents one-th.rd of the
unevangelized people of the globe, could easily be evangelized

in ten years.

Within two years, our own humble work will have
planted missionary stations, we believe, in every centre of
the province of Berar, so that there will be a missionary for
every one hundred thousand people, or a missionary party
for every county in that province, and every human being
can be made fairly acjuainted with the Gospel withm a

decade or less. , ^ ^,

Now if this can be done in Berai, with fifty mission-
aries, what could be done in India with five thousand mis-
sionaries ? And these five thousand missionaries could more
easily be sent by all the churches of Amenca than the fifty
that we have sent by the little company of Christians who
are standing back of them. . , ^ •

There are over twenty powerful Societies laboring m
India If each of these would send two hundred and fifty
missionaries into the field within the next five years-that is,
fifty a year-India would have a force of five thousand move
missionaries at the end of five years ; and wisely distributed
in the unoccupied fields, these would be sufficient to plant
the standard of the cross in every strategic point ot that vast

^""^This is not impracticable, or even difficult, with a church
half in earnest.

—'■:

584 / Al^CB,^ OUTLOOKS 0-V MtSSlONAR Y LANDS.

""■"Lt us pray that the Holy Ghost will open the eyes and
, ^? uiiis of His people to an enten-nse commen-
'■ r^ h h! vl ess of the opportanity and the hope.

"1 a more difficult field, and we need to go mo^
.arnain«,a.el«^sof^^^^^^^^^^

laige du jiefflected centres.

-''iwjrnr :Lt;sru a„d its — -«ua

Atiica 1 ^^ before His

ra^'^dmsp^id^^ h- oi«-d the way in advance
f T ! l!h !nd we ave sure that it a great concerted

--"r.:;rti:;irar:::"^^^^

«esteT;":ie. if Uod. people would honestly face rt
and rise to its grandeur.

THE FAILUKK AT HOMK.

The greatest lack in the missionary -^ov«"^«" ^'ifthe

. fit foreign but the home end of the work. If the

"'' " t Swe have witnessed abroad among the mis-

same spnit which ^« *^^ ^^^^.^ ^^,,,,^ i,, the churches

reah/.t'd.

vor to
)cietie8
do the

res and
•mmen-
lope.
;o more
fields in
lialf as
vantage,

is still a
'ore His
advance
;oncerted
•r Africa,

have sug
ly face it

to-day is
k. If the
g the mis-
e churches
•y speedily

T ///-: MISSION A RV Of TI. OOk\

585

It seems a great deal to say that the churches of America
gave five million dollars last year for foreign missions. But
how much did they keep \ The hest autliorities tell us that
the actual increase in the wealth of American Christians is
five hundred million dollars every year. What are five
million dollars <,ut of five hundred millions \ Our people
could give two Hundred times as nmch as they are giving,
and yet not draw a single dollar upon their principal.
Instead of seven thousand missionaries, we should then have

a million and a lialf .

This would give one missionary to every seven hundred
of the heathen world ; and this would he just the proportion
in which this land is supphed with ministers.

Our Christian churclies have one Protestant minister to
every six or seven hundred of our people. We send one mis-
sionary to every five hundred thousand heathen. That is to
say we do nearly seven hundred times as much for the
evangelization of America as we do for the evangelisation

of the heathen world.

We laugh at the egotism of China, when it makes its
map of the world with China in the centre, and other nations
lying in httle strips along the edge. But in the sight of
heaven, our map is more grotesque, for the needs of America
occupy nearly all the centre, and the fringes are given to the
myriads of unevangehzed lands, which represent twenty
times the population of our own country.

THE REMEDY.

How is this state cf things to be remedied >

, t+inir the tnie missionary

,..t of an. .. ;;^>j- '^.r ""nt: ,: a„a th. Chris-
idea into the hearts of the L, mi

""S:'a.y. By getting CU*.»t™e,.. an ... eva„ge«.-

tion upon the hearts of Hispeope^ ^^^^^^ ^^^ p^^_

The intelligent, understanding ot „,i^„„ary

posewillhe of immense value m dnect u ^^^^_,^

work of all the churches =u<l so met ^^^^_^^^ ^^ ^^_^

rerror^ras^rt— - — -

•"^TWrdly we nray lay the responsihiUty of thiswor.upon

todividuals. -*";^^;';X*::Uas said, "Go ye in.. aU
It is to each of us that i^ creature.'

the world, and preach ^^^ ^^^^^^rld some one in our
Wo can go )ust as really ^^^^^^^^^ ^^ ^,^^^^,,,,

place, we behove *at the"J ^„„^ ., „„„„ t, an un-
„eu and women m th>s and ^^„^,,, ,„,, ,( our

speakable blessing to «-f "",""; their work as to give to
Missionary Societies could so ad3U.t^t_^^^ ^^^ ^^^^^^ ^^ „j

our people this opportunity, a ^_^.,^,^ ^,,,„^

the Support of the "-'--;'', *:tians of this land who
there would be thousa^sot^^^^^^^^^^

would gladly accept this iesp<

onary
ChriB-

ir than

great

ight of

igelissa-

ad pur-

isionary
should
of the

ition as

;)rk upon

into all

ne inoiu'
C'hristiau
DC an un-
and if our
to give to
al cost of
sible sum,
land who

7 ///; M/ss/o\.iA' y or'T/.oor.

587

In our own work we have found this to he a great inspira-
tion, and wo believe the two hundicd already employed can
be increaaed indefinitely as the work grows.

Fourth. We must cease to be surprised at the large
gifts which the rich are bestowing, and we nuist expect that
they shall do nmch more.

We must not be surprised when men give millions, in-
stead of thousands, but the standard of our expectation must
be so raised that men's conception of duty will be enhanced to
something like the Master's ideal of His people and His work.
If David, at a single offering, gave nearly one-hundred mil-
lion dollars for the erection of the temple, because he loved
the Lord and His house ; how much more becoming that we,
with far greater wealth and vaster opportunities, should give
as grandly for the erection of the more enduring temple of the
coming Kingdom.

There are individuals who, out of their own means,
could evangelize whole nations, so far as the cost is con-
cerned ; and we ought to claim for these last days of the
Christian dispensation a consecration as magnificent as the
opportunities which God has given to us.

Fifth. We must expect a higher class of missionaries.
The day is past for supposing that anybody will make a mis-
sionary, and we must keep our best talent at home.

God wants the strongest men for the foreign field.
There are no such opportunities for glorious service to be
found at home. We want to expect large numbers of our
most gifted and conseciated men and women to choose these

'^^SS^?*^*'

^ (• f.iith and love, to claim

L„„.e ,1,.. WO.W .^ living ■■-■'''• ;f^.^,MUe,s of ChriBt

„t home to xacriftce a. much a» tte m ^^^^^^^

We wan, the day to '<>'"<'.;'';"' J ,„„k „t » i„ the

.„d .na„,ge„ce ««. ^'^^^^l^^ ,.„. the Hood of

'•^" 1 'r:::;r Xm :!.:«■ -eve,- sought to »ave.

— ir ;-e -' ^ r ' ihra:"!.. do fo.

„. he. and gve^te. H.«. » -^Ltio... . the min-
telli«e,>t faith and divine de«.re j„,. j„^ ^„„.

T„is,i. the *'«7 •,:';;';;; ,j,„a I will give thee

t'h:X,f fo'th;rin.,e,.ita„ce. and the uttermost ,.a* of

''- ';?•* ::",rtii:x:::he i... ,. «» ha..ve.t, ^.t ««

.end forth lal,o.ers into His havv^t- ^^^^^ ^^ _^^^^^^^

The,-e is nothing "'•« »^;':,f ,^^tn in the opening of
missions than answeml,>.a>e. ■^^ „. ,„ea„s and

hearts of the heathen.

THE MISSIONARY OfTI.OOK.

589

I liiim

J who

id set
il, and
Christ
rhurch

luxury
t in the
)lood of

n do for
he min-
itof ia-

Ji accom-
rive thee
b i)arts of

, i,l\at He

,f modern
opening of
neans and
t upon the

May wo 1k' penniltod to mention a fow. in order tc .11-
courage and inspire our friends to larger outlooks at tJio

throne?

Some years ago, a few women met in a New England
city to pray that Clod would send large gifts of means. In
that town there lived a very wealthy man who was not partic-
ularly friendly to foreign missions. A few months later he
died, leaving one of the largest hequests to one of our nus-
sionary Boards which had ever been made by a single indi-
vidual. It was afterwards found that he had made his will
just at the very time when these sisters were i>raying in that
town. He never knew whence came the touch that mov«.'d
his heart to give that numificent bequest for the worlds
evangelization. But in the day when all things shall be
revealed, those simple women shall be credited as much as
he, with that enormous gift.

A few months ago, the writer was speaking ,.1 a West-
ern meeting on missions, and telling how much seven mil-
lion dollars would do U>v the immediate evangelization of the
world. He noticed a very remarkable face in his audience.
It was a dear sister in a Quaker bonnet.

She grasped him warmly by the hand at the close, and
quietly said : " I think Vvc got it." '' Got what ? " he said.
"Oh, that seven miUion dollars" "Oh," h< tsked, "you
mean by faith?" "Yes," she said, "what better way is
there to get it ? But I will write you when 1 am sure."

A few weeks later he received a letter from her, written
with as much importance as if she had sent him a check

590 LARC.F.K OVTI.OOKS OS MISSIOSARY LANDS,

for th« seven million dollars, and she Huitl : " Now I am
sure, and you may ivly upon the Lord to w.t.d yo.i that
inoney for the evangelization of tho world."

Wo are not ashamed to Hay that wo felt quite as much
encouraged as though we had receivtnl a large chock from a

millionaire.

In the Btory of Finney's lif( there are very many extra-
ordinary examples of the power of believing prayer. His
greatest helper was an old saint who had been miraculously
baptized of tho Holy Ghost, and who, when he prayed, be-
lieved. In his i;ist days he kept a diary of his prayers, and
a re<;ord of tin {.laces f'n- which he had prayed, and after his
death his diary was published, and compared with tho
records of the religious press, and it was found that special
times of blessing had followed the very order of his prayers,
and the Holy Ghost had been poured out in an extraordinary
manner in the places for which he had prayed. That man,
from his little closet, had been able to sweep the world with
the power of God's almighty hand.

While in India, tho wi iter met a very beautiful girl, the
wife of a native preacher, and learned that she was one of a
class of five who many years before were heathen girls filled
with all the degradation and misery of a heathen training.

So discouraged had their teacher become that she was
almost on the point of abandoning her work. She wrote to
a Christian friend in Ohio and asked him to pray for them.

One Saturday night, he came home from his work and
went into his closet and spent the evening in prayer for those

I',

VDS.

THE A//SS/(^X. Iff y OCTLOOK.

59r

Now I am
I you that

ito fus much
uH;k from a

laiiy oxtra-
rayer. His
liraculously
prayed, be-
)rayei-s, and
,n(l after his
I with the
that Bpecial
his i)rayer8,
ctraordinary
That man,
) world with

iful girl, the
was one of a
an girls filled
a training,
hat she was
She wrote to
T for them,
his work and
lyer for those

girls. At the doHo he felt that lie had Injen answered, and
ho rose frr)m his knees and wrAte to his friend that God
would save those girls.

That Saturday inKht was Hubbath morning in India, and
at the very hour when he was piaying for them, those girls
we«) gathering with their teacher in the class. She was sur-
l)rised that their whole manner was changed, and at the close
of the class they came to her :ind asked her to forgive them,
and prorjiised to live a Christuj' life. They kept their word,
and all of them have become Ci- i^itian women.

Could we have seen what heaven witnessed that day, we
would have beheld a flash pass upward from that little closet
until it reached the heart of Christ ; and then, after linger-
ing a moment, borne onward by the Hi ly Ghost, continue its
circuit until it fell, with the morning sunlight, in the centre
of India, where it breathed the living love and peace of
heaven uj)on those heathen souls. Oh, beloved, thus may
we all be missionaries.

Not less mighty is the jwwer of prayer to remove diffi-
culties. 8om(> iime ago, in Qnangsi, the Southern Baptists
had established their first station in that difficult province.
After awhile, the drought began to disturb the minds of the
people, and their priests told them it was because the dragon
was offended on account of the foreigners, and they must
drive them out.

They gave them four days to leave, and told them that if
within that time the rain did not come, they would have to go.

They gathered together for prayer, and waited unceas-

j A!-**-""

A/**

592 LARGER OCTLOOk'S OX JflSSrONARY LANDS.

ingly upon the Lord. Before the end of the stipulated time,
the clouds gathered, the rains fell, the mission was saved,
and the heathen were compelled to acknowledge the hand of

the living God.

These are some of the things that prayer can accom-
plish.

Prayer can send laborers into the harvest, and the right
kind of laborers. There is nothing more important or diffi-
cult than the securing of the right kind of missionaries.
Many of the most promising candidates are liable to fail
when they reach the field. The Holy Spirit alone can select
the workers who can endure the pressures of climate and
circumstances, and who possess the qualities of mind, body
and heart which will perfectly fit them for this difficult
work. One heaven-sent missionary is worth a dozen of
mere human selection.

God can take men from every class of society in answer
to prayer. A few years ago, in a most wonderful manner,
while friends in London were praying for God to raise up
missionaries from among the educated young m-n of Eng-
land, a spontaneous movement at that very time sprang up
among the Cambridge students, and while the Board meet-
ing in London was praying, a telegram came to one of the
secretaries, asking the committee to meet and pray for young
men who were waiting upon the Lord about their call to the

foreign field.

Prayer can raise up workers from among the natives
who will become like Sheshadri in India, Neeissima in Japan,

}' LANDS.

stipulated time,
;sion was saved,
3dge the hand of

ayei' can accom-

5t, and the right
iportant or diffi-
of missionaries,
ire hable to fail
; alone can select
s of climate and
es of mind, body
for this difficult
orth a dozen of

society in answer
»nderful manner,
God to raise up
mg m'-n of Eng-
f time sprang up
the Board meet-
me to one of tlie
id pray for young
t their call to the

Bong the native*
seissima in Japan^

THE MISSIONARY OlTI.OOfC,

593

and Rabinowitch in Russia, instruments in the hand of God
to call their own people unto Christ. Oh, may the Holy
Ghost call some of us as definitely to this ministry as He
has called others to the field !

This is a special priesthood to which God will ordain
willing and consecrated hearts who stand continually in the
holy F- 'ce, and hold the incense in believing prayer.

Of such men He says : " I have chosen you and ordained
you that you should go and bring forth much fruit, and that
your fruit should remain, and that whatsoever ye shall ask
the Father in My Name, He may give it you."

The ordination is unto prayer as nmch as for fruit-bear-
ing. Oh, for men who have been set apart for the special
purpose of getting answers to their prayers !

We read in the Book of Revelation that when the in-
cense of prayer had been presented before the throne by the
ministering angel, " there was silence in heaven by the space
of half an hour." Everything above was hushed, that the
whisper of prayer might be heard. Then we read, "the
censer was filled with coals of fire that were poured out upon
the earth, and there were voices and thunderings, and a
great earthquake."

And so, when we are true to this mighty priesthood, and
send up through the ministering hands of our ascended
Lord, our believing intercession, the waiting heavens will
listen, the mighty forces of Providence will begin to move,
and the trembling earth will reverberate with the echoes of
His mighty working and the tread of myriad feet, as the

594

LARGER or r LOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS.

procession of the advent heralds moves forward to meet the
Master's coming.

Above all other blessings, prayer \v'ill uphold the lone
workers on the field, and give us a hallowed partnership in
their toils, trials and recompenses.

They have gone there to represent us, as well as Him.
Let us not for a moment rail to uphold them, and to be the
channels of life and blessing to their hearts as they go down
amid the awful depths of heathen darkness.

HOLD THE ROPES.

Down amid the depths cf heathen darkness

There are heroes true and brave,
Shrinking not from pain, and toil and danger,

They liave gone to help and save.
But we hear them calling, ' ' Do not leave us

Mid these dreadful depths to drown ;
Let us ever feel your arms beneath us,

Hold the ropes, as we go down."

So beneath the billows of the ocean

Divers plunga for treasures rare,
But through hands that hold tLe ropes above them

Still they breathe the upper all
Seeking precious pearls of richer value.

Braver hearts have dared to go ;
But our faithful hands must every moment

Hold the ropes that reach below.

Who can understand the awful darkness

Of these realms of Sin and Death ?
Even the very air is scorched and poisoned

With the Dragon's fetid breath.
But across the widest ocean billows

Love can reach to heathen lands,
And beneath the deepest, darkest surges

Prayer can hold a brother's hands.

4RY LANDS.
Di'ward to meet the

11 uphold the lone
i^ed partnership in

IS, as well as Him.
hem, and to be the
ts as they go down

IS.

brknesB
id danger,
eave us

THE MISSIONARY OLTLOOK.

Think yon was it only for our brotlier

JeHUS epaite His last conimands ?
Is tliere nothing left for you to suffer

In these dark and heatlien lands ?
If you cannot go yourself to gave them,

There are those that you can send.
And with loving arms strtrtched out to help them

Hold the roiJes, as they descend.

Let us hold the ropes with hands more loyal,

Let us pray with ftith more strong ;
I^et the love that never fails nor fa'ters

Faint not, though the strife be long.
Let us lay our treasures on the altar.

Let us give our children too ;
There's a part for ea''.h io this great l>attle.

And the Lord has need of you.

595

es above them

le,

oment

aesB
Boned

rges

;i '

i^B

Fe'2.

'tL.

■ ■- ' -< '' -- ' - ' - ' l ^^.-..J^UiWW^^tw^«W^^^M^i»,iwJ^J»,WWl^^-^i^a^^^