^a (MAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET {MT-3) 1.0 I.I u Si ' us 110 1.8 1 1.25 _u ^ < 6" - ► ^ p ^. /i signifie "A SUIVRE ", le symbole V signifie "FIN". Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre filmds i des taux de reduction diffdrents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clich6, il est filmd d partir de I'angle sup^rieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images ndcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 jAiiiia 1". iiECJiwouKTu i:< uumek's cosicaE. THE LIFE AND ADVENTURES OF JAMES P. BECKWOURTH, MOUNTAINEER, SCOUT, AND PIONEER, AND CHIEF OF THE CROW NATION OF INDIANS. mittt fiUusttatfons. WRITTEN FROM HIS OWN DICTATION, BY T. D. BONNER. //^. NEW YORK: HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS. FRANKLIN SQUARE. 1856 F /. 6520-? r C I p Entered, accordinjr to Act of Congress, in tlie j-ear one thousand eight liundred and fifly-six, by IIahpek & BaoTiiEns, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the Southern District of New York. ^'^ f K E F A C E BiniED amxl flic ,nUimc passes of f'-,o .Slorv, V„ van.p«-s.sio„ -t7:Cunr^.«:-^^^^^^^^ nations, and as earlv pioneer : the » ^'"" ''"'"" fteitic coast, is Jam~ cl trth S'"" °'""- -.nd startling personal adventtut wl 'h 7 ''T' .-■ecord but for the accident of «, ;" with" "" -he mo,.tai,,s of California. wlt:;,^.r^^^^^^^^ IV I'KEFAC'E. ill llio man, and, ])ationtly listening to Iiis story, pro- t'cwlcd, as it fell from his lips, to put it upon paper. 'J'his autobiograjtliy was thus })ro(luced, and was the result of some montlis' labor in the winter of 1854-55. In prosecuting the task, tlie autlior has in no instance departed trom tlie story of the narrator, but it was taken ddwn literally as it was trom day to day related. Beck- wourth kej)t no journal, and, of course, relied upon his nunnory alone ; consequently dates arc often wanting, which it was impossible to give with accimicy when recurring to events transpiring in the course of very many years. I^cckwourth is personally known to thousands of people " living on both sides of the mountains," and also, from his service under the United States government, has enjoyed the acquaintance of many officers of the United States Army, who have been stationed in Florida, Mexico, and California. In liis long residence with the Indians he adopted their habits, and was in every respect conformed to their ways : the consequence was, from his gv jat courage and superior mental endowments, he rose rapidly in their estimation, and linally became their chief. As an Indian, therefore, he speaks of their customs, and describes their characteristics ; and probably, from his autobiography, wc have more interesting particulars tJian were ever before given of the aborigines. Bcckwoiirtli, after ten thousand adventures, finally bi'came involved in the stream that set toward the Pa- cific, and, almost unconsciously, he established a home in one of the pleasant valleys that border on Feather River. Discovering a pass in the mountains that rreatlv facilitated omio:rants in reaching* California, hi.-; ino' I'KKFACIC. ^. 1.01.S0 L...e.-„m „ «to,,,,ing.pl,,cc for tl.e wcarv „ncl ,\i.- VMed among then,, «,k1 no cloub, fl,c aisociations < "i« I'l-escn.ca Lave done nu.cl. to efface in.s nalnral 'l..spos,t>on (0 wander and seeK e.xeiten.ent an,on.. ,l,c Indian tribes. " Jn person ],e is of medium I.eioht, of slron.^ mu,eu !» power, ,„ie]c of apprei.ension^and, for a ml, ;;", .ve,„-s, very aetive. Kro,n ids neclc is s.usnnnded h pertoratcd bnlle, witl. „ large o,,long bead a:h s <. of . , secured by a tbread of sinew : ,lds amulet is jus - 1.C wore ^t wldle ciuef among tl,e (Jrows. Wit except,o„ of tlds ,,e l.as now assun.cd tl,e Jl costume of e.vd.zed Ide, and, in Ids occasional visits to tlie diess and mamiers of the refined gentleman. It .s unncecssary to speak of tbe natural superioritr of Ins n„nd : Ins autobiography every where display^ i . H.S sagacity ,n dctcnnining what would please llu. Mians has never been surpassed; for on ,l,e most trv- "ge s of the Inghest order, and probably no man ever i.ved who has met with more personal advent.uen- volvtng danger to life, though in this respect he is not an exception to all mountaineers and hunter W.l e 1,>- engaged ■„ the fur trade and taced the per of' an unknown wilderness. ^ CONTENTS. CIIAPTKR I. Birth-plac-n and Cliildliooil.— Removal to St. Louis Page VA CHAPTER JI. Expedition to the Afincs.— Am Hunter to the Party.— FirHt Trii) to New Orlc-ms. — Sick with Yellow Fever. — Return Home. — First Trip to the Great West ,^^ CHAPTER HI. Return from the deserted Pawnee Villages.— SufTorings on the Way -Prospect of Starvation.-Fall in with the Indians most opportune- ly—Safe Arrival at Ely's Trading-post at the mouth of the Kan- ""^ 28 CHAPTER IV. Severe Suflerings in the Camp.— Grand Island.— Platte River— T^n the South Fork of the Platte.-Thc Dog, the Wolf, and the first liuHalo g^ CHAPTER V. Suflerings on the Plattc.-Arrive at the Rocky Mounlains.-Fall out with General Ashley.— Horses again stolen by the Crow Indians -Sickness of our General.-Rescue of the General from a wound- ed Buflalo. — Remarkable Rescue of the General from the Green River " Suck" 45 CHAPTER VI. We separate into six Detachments, and start out.— Trapping on Green River.— Narrow Escape from a Massacre by the Arrap-a-hos —One Man murdered in Camp.— Retreat.— Fail in with a Detachment of our Company.— Groat Joy at the Meeting.— Return of the Detach- nioiits to (!<(< Plam of Rendezvous at the " Suck" ,>^ VIII I'ONTIINI'S. ClIAPTKll VII. Arrival of rjoncral AhIiIpj- and Party. — His Relation of thnir SufTcr- iiijjH after ieaviiiff the Kciitlezvoiis. — Their Excursion to Salt I.ake. — Fall in with a Fur ('onipany hcforo unknown to theMountainecs. — His final Fortune, and lieturn to St. Louis I'age 70 CHAPTER VHI. ITncxpcotcd Return to tlie Rocky Mountains. — Camp removed. — Final .Success in fnidinir our parly in the Mountains. — .loyful Meetinn;. — Horses stolen by the Pun-nak Indians. — A IJattle, and six Indians killed. — W'c recapture our Horses 9(1 CHAPTER IX. The Company removes from Cache Valley on a Hunting and Trapping Excursion. — Discovery of a Band of Rlack Feet. — A r)attlo ensues with them. — Description of the Battle. — Return to Rendezvous. — Fulfillment of the Medicine Chief's Prophecy 98 CHAPTER X. fircat Battle with the Black Feet. — Departure of General Ashley. — His Farewell Speech to the Mountaineers. — Removal of our Ren- dezvous. — Peace between the Flat Heads and Black Feet. — Trad- ing-post at their Village. — I become Son-in-law to the Black Foot Chief — Trouble in the Family. — Wife punished for Disobedience. — Troubled Waters finally stilled 108 CHAPTER XI. Removal of our Rendezvous. — Battle with our Friends, the Black Feet. — A Race for dear Life. — Great Victory over the Grovan Band of Black Feet ItJC CHAPTER Xn. Departure from the Rendezvous. — Trouble in Camp. — Leave the Party and Traps. — Arrival at the Crow Village. — Great Stir among the Crows. — .loyfuI Meeting with my Crow Parents, Brothers, and Sis- ters. — Three Years without seeing a White Man 142 CHAPTER XHL War between the Crow Nation and other Indian Tribes. — My first Victory as a Crow Indian. — A Melancholy and Sentimental Indian. — Indian Masonry. — Return to Camp. — Great Rejoicing among niv innumerable Relatives. — The Little Wife 15:! • UNTKNTS. IX CHAPTKR XIV ''V.^lcll "st"'" '" ^''V'r""^""^-'^-^'"^»'- Cattle vvul. tlu- cic^l^nnes "'""' "^ ''"" ^^■^^"^'^' i'ort.-Troublc with tho Page 18!* CHAPTER XV. Short Account of Pine Leaf, the Crow Hcroine.-Twcnty Days" Iht wjth to Chov..nnes.-KeturM of the Xilia.e to the w "4l " teountau..s Letter fro.u .M-lvenzie.-ViJit to hi« Tradin,.pns, at the .Mouth of the \ cllow fStone .,<, i ^(M CHAPTER XVI. ^?"!"" ""rf n ''^^'-''T^^ "'• ^'luaws.-Battle with the Bhu-k 1 cc vvul the ( heyennes.-fJreat Sue-ess of the Crows in stealing Ho es.-A successful Fall for licaver.-Return to the Fort with '-iyo CHAPTER XVH. Victory over tlie Cheycnnes.-Treachery of the Snake Indians.-Lo..s of SIX Crow \Varnors^- Victory over the Snakes and Utahs.-A Mountau.eer k.lled.-Trouble in the Wigwan..-! am dis.raced.- Great Sacnhce of my Father's Property.-Three Whipping; for vio- lating Crow Morals.-Great Battle with the Re-ka-ras . ...... ol", CHAPTER XVHI. Departure from the Fort with tlic Crows.-I am elected First Coun- selor of the Aation.-Death of the head Chief-J am appointed Successor.— Last Moments of the Chief o-y CHAPTER XIX. Departure from the Fort-Arrival of Fitzpatrick and Party at the Crow V.llage.-IIair-breadth Escape from a Massacre.-Rescue and Restoration of Property to the Owners.-Departure of the Parlv - My Return to the Fort.-Escape from Black Feet.-Defeat .t' ^he Crows .... 274 CHAPTER XX. Excursion to the Fort.-Arrival of Long Hair's Village.-Building of a new Medicine Lodge.-Triumphar.t Entrance of my little Wife into the Lodge.-Attack on the Crow Village by the Siouxs -Meet ing of the two Crow Villages.-Visit of the Grovans.-\'i.sif to the GrovauR and Fort Clarke X CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXI. AltacUs of t!ic Black Feet on the Fort.— Six White Men killed.— Abamloiiinont of Fort Cass. — Fort constructed at the Mouth of the " Rose Bud." — Removal of the Village. — Peace concluded with the As-nc-bohies. — Hair-breadth Escape. — Death of Mr. Hunter, of Kcn- ti'^^I^y Page 303 CHAPTER XXn. Mofeniic Shower.— Its EiFect upon the Indians.— Their Sacrifice to the (rrcai Spirit. — Continued Hostilities with the Black Feet. — A Black I'oot burned in the Crow Villafrc. — Visit to the Fort ... 317 CHAPTER XXIII. Removal to our Tobacco-ground. — Expedition to the Arrap-a-hos for Horsi'S. — Discovered, and the Party scattered. — Wanderings for fourteen Months.- -Return at last amid tremendous Rejoicing. 325 CHAPTER XXIV. Excursion to the Fort. — Great Battle with the Cheyenncs on the Way. — Rejoicing on my Arrival at the Fort. — Horses stolen by the Chcycinics. — Pursuit and Battle with the Thieves. — Battle with the Black Foot. — Return to our Village 336 CHAPTER XXV. Visit of the whole Crow Nation to the Fort. — Seven Days' Trading and Jlojoicing.- -Separation of the Villages. — Expedition to the Ca- manchcs. — Narrow Escape from their Village. — Battle with the Black Feet. — The Whites assist us with their Cannon. — Captured by the Black Feet. — Recaptured by the Crows. — Final Victory. 346 CHAPTER XXVI. Deputation from the As-ne-boines. — Characteristic Speech of Yellow Belly. — Visit to the Fort. — Visit to Fort Union. — Rescue of Five While Men from Starvation. — Arrival at Fort Cass. — Departure for the Village. — Visit of the Snakes to the Crows 358 CHAPTER XXVII. Departure for St. Louis. — Visit Fort Union. — Fort Clarke. — Descend to the A-rick-a-ra Country. — Am taken Prisoner. — Extraordinary Means of Release. — Reach St. Louis. — Scarcely recognized by my Sisters. — Changes. — Estrangement of Friends. — Sigh for my In- iliaii Home .... n7n CONTENTS. XI CHAPTER XXVIII. Page 383 CHAPTER XXIX. 404 CHAPTER XXX. ^TnZlv t ";"'r— Severe Sickness o„ .he VVay.-ArrivM Trade opened with various Tribes.-Incidenfs . .7^""";^",' CHAPTER XXXf Alarm among afTrade,^ -HveZr u n ",' '° '^ ''"^'-O'eat from Che SioLs.-Safnrrival a. fhe Xt T "''""^''.-^''e'-' »-hos.-A„acked.,aChe,e„;;^:rr:rr;rr:5°."^S CHAPTER XXXII 456 CHAPTER XXXni. TIic Californian Revolution Riflo r^-^ t. • . mies.-Colonel Sut or P Corps^-Position of the two Ar- i-o. v^oionei butter.— Cannonade.— Fliffht of Sutfnr u- u turn.-Trial and subsequent Release ^ S"tter.-H,s Re- 406 CHAPTER XXXIV. Affairs at Santa F6— Insurrection at T^nc n- Batue a. .Ke c..n.-u.^it::^'zz:^:!":^ Xll CONTENTS. -A Mexican Woman redeemed from the Indians —Retu Santa Fe rn to .Page 483 CHAPTER XXXV. ic at Departure for California. —Meeting with the Apaches. — Hostile Threats.— Trouble with the Utahs.— Most terrible Tragedy.— Socie- ty in California. — Adventures with Grizzly Bears 499 CHAPTER XXXVI. Discovery of Bcckwourth's Pass.— No pecuniary Reward for publ Services.— Transformation.— A new Character. — Emigrants u Home and at their Journey's End.— Description of the Happy Val ley. — Interesting Reminiscence 5 14 CHAPTER XXXVII. Mistakes regarding the Character of the Indian.— Extent of the West- ern Tribes —Their Character.- How a War against them should be conducted. — Reflections. — Closing Address to the Indian he- '0'"e 529 to 33 lie e- J9 ic at il- 14 AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES P. BECKWOURTE CHAPTER I. Birth-place and Childhood—Removal to St. Louis. I WAS born in Fredericksburg, Virginia, on the 26th of Apnl 1798. My lather's fan.il/consisted of tlUr- teen cluldren, seven sons and six daughters. I was the thn-d child, having one sister and one brother older tiian myself. My father had been an officer in the Revolutionary War, and had held a major's commission. lie served throughout that glorious struggle which "Raised the dignity or' man, And taught him to be free.'' I well recollect when a smaU boy, the frequent meet- ings of the old patriots at my father's house, who vvould sit down and relate the different battles in which they had taken part during "those days that tried men s souls." According to the custom of those days, tlieir meetings were occasionally enlivened with some good old peacli brandy; the same kind, I presume, as hat with which the old Tory treated M'Donald when he delivered h.s splendid eliarger " Selim" to him for presentation to Colonel Tarleton, wlucli circumstance was very frequently spoken of by the old soldiers. - Often during tliese reminiscences every eye would 14 AUTORIOGIJAI'IIV OF dim, and tears course down the checks of the old vet- erans, as they thus fought their battles o'er again, and recalled their sufferings during tho struggles thej had passed through. My youthful mind was vividly impressed with the stirring scenes depicted by those old soldiers ; but time and subsequent hardship have obliterated most of their narratives from my memory. One incident I recollect, however, related by my father, when he formed one of a storming party in the attack on Stony Point made under General Wayne. When I was but about seven or eight years of age, my father removed to St. Louis, Missouri, taking with him all his family and twenty-two negroes. lie se- lected a section of land between the forks of the Mis- sissippi and Missouri liivers, twelve miles below St. Charles, which is to this day known as "Beckwourth's Settlement." At this early period of our history (1805-6) the whole region of country around was a " howling wil- derness," inhabited only by wild beasts and merciless savages. St. Louis, at that time, was but a small town, its inhabitants consisting almost wholly of French and Spanish settlers, who were engaged in trafficking with the Indians the commodities of civili- zation, such as Jire-ivater^ beads, blankets, arms, am- munition, &c., for peltry. For protection against the Indians, who were at that time very troublesome and treacherous, it became nec- essary for the whites to construct block-houses at convenient distances. These block-houses were built by the united exertions of the settlers, who began to gather from all quarters since the "Jefferson Purchase" had been eftected from the French government. The JAMES V. BECKWOURTII. 15 i settlers or inhabitants of four adjoining sections would unite and build a block-liouse in the centre of their possessions, so that in case of alarm they could all re- pair to it as a place of refuge from the savages. It was necessary to keep a constant guard on the plantations, and while one portion of the men were at work, the others, with their arms, were on the alert watching the wily Indian. Those days are still fresh in mj^ memory, and it was then that I received, young as I was, the rudiments of my knowledge of the Indian character, which has been of such inestimable value to me in my subsequent adventures among them. There were constant alarms in the neighborhood of some of the block-houses, and hardly a day passed without the inhabitants being compelled to seek them for protection. As an illustration of our mode oi life, I will relate an incident that befell me when about nine years old. One c?ay my father called me to him, and inquired of me whether I thought myself man enough to carry a sack of corn to the mill. The idea of riding a horse, and visiting town, possessed attractions which I could not resist, and I replied wiih a hearty affirmative. A sack of corn was accordingly deposited on the back of a gentle horse selected for the purpose, and " Young Jim" (as I was called) was placed upon the sack, and started for the mill two miles distant. About midway to the mill lived a neighbor having a large family of children, with whom I frequently joined in boyish sports. On my way I rode joyously up to the little fence which separated the house from the road, think- ing to pass a word with my little playmates. What was my horror at discovering all the children, eight in number, from one to fourteen years of age, lying in IG Al TUlJlUUUAJ'lIi OF various positions in the door-yard with tlieir throats cut, their scalps torn otT", and the warm life-blood still oozing from tJieir gaping wounds ! In the door-way lay their father, and near him their mother, in the same condition ; they had all shared the same fate. I found myself soon back at my father's house, but without the sack of corn — how I managed to get it off I never discovered — and related the circumstance to my father. He immediately gave the alarm throughout the settle- ment, and a body of men started in pursuit of the sav- ages wlio had perpetrated this fearful tragedy ; my fa- ther, with ten of his own men, accompanying them. In two days the band returned, bringing with tlicm eighteen Indian scalps ; for the backwoodsman fought the savage in Indian style, and it was scalp for scalp between them. The day when I beheld the harrowing spectacle of my little murdered playmates is still as fresh in my memory as at the time of its occurrence, and it never will fade from my mind. It was the tirst scene of In- dian cruelty my young eyes had ever witnessed, and I wondered how even savages could possess such relent- less minds as to wish to bathe their hands in the blood of little innocents against whom they could have no cause of quarrel. But my subsequent experience has better acquainted me with the Indian character, as the reader will leaiu in the course of the following pages. I also recollect a large body of Indians assembling in their war costume on the opposite side of the Mis- sissippi River, in what is now the State of Illinois. This was at Portage de Soix, twenty-five miles above St. Louis, and about two miles from my father's house ; and their intention was to cut oif all the white inhab- itants of the surrounding country. The alarm was a lAMKS I'. HKCKWOIRTII. I given ; a large party of the settlers collected, crossed the river, and after a severe engagement defeated the Indians with great loss, and frustrated their bloody purposes. Three days after this battle, a woman came into the settlement who had been three years captive among the Indians. Slie had made her escape during the con- fusion attending their defeat, and reached her friends in safety, after they had long supposed her dead. The name of this woman I do not remember, but I have no doubt tliere arc old settlers in that region who yet rec- ollect the circumstance and the general rejoicing with which her escape was celebrated. The news that she brought was of the most alarm- ing nature. She related ho// several of the Indian tribes liad held a grand council, and resolved upon a general attack upon 8t. Louis and all the surrounding country, witli the view to butcher indiscriminately all the wliite inhabitants, French and Spanish excepted. This intelligence produced the greatest alarm among the inhabitants, and every preparation was made to repel the attack. New block-houses were erected, old ones repaired, and every thing placed in the best pos- ture for defense. The Indians soon after appeared in great force opposite St. Louis. Blondo, an interpreter, was dispatched across the river to them, to inform them of the preparations made for their reception. He in- formed them of the intelligence communicated by the woman fugitive from their camp ; and represented to them that the people of St. Louis were provided with numerous "big guns mounted on wagons," whicli, in case of attack, could not fail to annihilate all their war- riors. They credited Blondo's tale, and withdrew their forces. 18 AUTOllIOGUAPIIY ()!-' At the period of which I speak, the major part of tlie inhabitants of St. Louis were French and Spanish. These were on friendly terms with all the Indian tribes, and wished to confine their long-established trafiic with the lied men to themselves. For this rea- son they discountenanced the settlement of Americans among them, as they considered it an invasion of their monopoly of the traffic with the Indians ; and St. Louis being the grand trading depot for the regions of the "West and Northwest, the jirotits derived from the in- tercourse were immense. The Indians, too, thinking themselves better dealt with by the French and Span- ish, united with the latter in their hostility to the in- flux of the Americans. When about ten years of age I was sent to St. Lou- is to attend school, where I continued until the year 1812. I was then apprenticed to a man in St. Louis named George Casner, to learn the trade of blacksmith. (Tliis man had a partner named John L. Sutton, who is yet a resident in St. Louis.) I took to the trade with some unwillingness at first, but becoming reconciled to it, T was soon much pleased with my occupation. When I had attained my nine- teenth year, my sense of importance had considerably expanded, and, like many others of my age, I felt my- self already quite a man. Among other indiscretions, I became enamored of a young damsel, which, leading me into habits that my boss disapproved of, resulted finally in a difficulty between us. Being frequently tempted to transgress my boss's rules by staying from home somewhat late of an even- ing, and finding the company I spent my time with so irresistibly attractive that I could not bring myself to obedience to orders, I gave way to my passion, and JAMKS P. JiECKWOUIlTII. lU d i felt indifferent whether my proceedings gave satisfac- tion or otherwise. One morning I was assailed by my principal in language which I considered unduly harsh and insulting, and on his threatening to dismiss me his house, I was tempted to reply with some warmth, and acknowledge that his doing so would exactly square with my wishes. Provoked at this, he seized a hammer and flung at rae. I dodged the missile, and threw it back at him in return. A scuffle then ensued, in which I, being young and athletic, came off mi . ter of the ground, and, accepting his polite dismissal, walked straight to my boarding-house. But a few moments elapsed before my assailant walked ii and forbade my landlady to entertain me farther on his account. I replied that I had plenty of money, and was com- petent to pay my own board. This provoked him to a second attack, in which he again came off worsted. Hereupon resolving to leave the house, I began to prepare for my departure ; but, before I had completed my preparations, a one-armed constable presented him- self at the stairs, and demanded to see me. Well knowirg his errand, I took a well-loaded pistol in my hand, and went to meet him, assuring him that if he ascended the steps to capture me I would shoot him dead. In my exasperated state of mind, I really be- lieve I should have executed my threat ; the consta- ble, perceiving my resolute bearing, after parleying a while, went away. Feeling confident that he had gone for another officer, who I feared might capture me, I expedited my departure, and, taking refuge in the house of a friend, concealed myself for three days, and thcu shipped on board a keel-boat, proceeding to the mines 20 Al'TOIUOGJJAIMIV OF on I''cvor River. But I was discovered by my boss and detained, lie holding IiiniHclf responsible for my ai)pcaranee until my father's decision was learned. Accordingly, 1 went home to my father, and related the difliculty 1 had recently had with my master, lie counseled me to return to my apprenticeship, but I de- clared my determination never to be reconciled again. My father then wished me to set up in business in his settlement, but I exj)ressed disinclination, and declared a growing wish to travel. Seeing my determination, my fatlier linally consented to my departure. He ad- monished me with some wholesome precepts, gave me five hundred dollars in cash, together with a good horse, saddle, and bridle, and bade me God speed upon my journey. Bidding adieu to all my friends, I proceeded to the boat and went on board. The object for which the boat was dispatched up the 1^'evcr Kiver was to make a treaty with the Sac Indians, to gain their consent to our working the mines, at that time in their possession. Tiie expedition was strictly of a pacific character, and was led by Colcnel R. M. Johnson. A brother of the coloneFs accompanied us, and several other gentlemen went in the boat as passengers. JAMES I'. BECK WUi; Kill. 21 CHAPTER II. Expedition to the Mines. — Ain Hunter to the Party. — First Trip to New Orleans. — Sick with Vcllow I'evcr. — Return Home. — First Trip to the Great West. The expedition consisted of from s' x to eight boats, eaiTying probably about one hundred men. The par- ty in our boat numbered some eight or ten men, among whom were Colonel Johnson, his son Darwin Johnson, ]\Icssrs. January, Simmes, Kennerley, and others, whose names have escaped me. 1 engaged in the capacity of hunter to the party. We pushed olf, and after a slow and tedious trip of about twenty days, arrived at our place of destination (Cralena of the present day). We found Indians in great numbers awaiting our disembarkation, who were already acquainted with the object of our expedition. The two tribes. Sacs and Foxes, received us peacea- bly, but, being all armed, they presented a very formi- dable appearance. There was a considerable force of United States troops quartered in that region, under the command of Colonel Morgan, stationed in detach- ments at Prairie du Chien, Rock Island, St. Peter's, iind Des ]\Ioines. After nine days' parleying, a treaty was effected with them, and ratified by the signatures of the contracting parties. On the part of the Indians, it was signed by Black Thunder, Yellow, Bank, and Keokuk (father to (he Keokuk who figured in the Blac.'t Hawk war). On the part of the United States, Colonels Morgan and Johnson attached their signatures. This negotiation 22 Al.TOlJKMiltArilV Ol concludod, tlic mines were tlicn first opened for eivil- i/xd enterpriHC. During the settlement of the preliminaries of the treaty, there was great diffieulty with the Indians, and it was neeessary for each man of our party to he on his guard against any hostile attempts of the former, who were all armed to the teeth. On the distribution of l)resents, wliicli followed the conclusion of the treaty, consisting of casks of whisky, guns, gunpowder, knives, Markets, &c., there was a general time of rejoicing. Pow-wows, drinking, and dancing diversified the time, and a few fights were indulged in as a sequel to the entertainment. The Indians soon became very friendly to me, and I was indebted to them for showing me their choicest hunting-grounds. There was abundance of game, in- cluding deer, bears, wild turkey, raccoons, and numer- ous other wild animals. Frequently they would ac- company me on my excursions (which always proved eminently successful), thus affording me an opportuni- ty of increasing my per=*onal knowledge of the Indian character. I have lived among Indians in the Eastern and Western States, on the Rocky JMountains, and in California ; I find their habits of living, and their re- ligious belief, substantially uniform through all the un- mingled races. All believe in the same Great Spirit ; all have their prophets, their medicine men, and their soothsayers, and are alike influenced by the appear- ance of omens; thus leading to the belief that the orig- inal tribes throughout the entire continent, from Flori- da to the most northern coast, have sprung from one stock, and still retain in some degree of purity the so- cial constitution of their jmmitive founders. I remained in that region for a space of eighteen .lAMKs 1'. ni:('KW ai:toht()(}rapiiy of never get on ; so 1 told liim, if 1 had to advance and leave him, to throw himself in the trail, and await my return on the following day with a good horse to carry him to the trading-post. We walked on, I a hundred yards in advance, but I became convinced that if I did not use my remaining strength in getting to Ely's, we should both be lost. Accordingly, summoning all my forces, I doubled my speed, determined to reach the post before I stop- ped. I had not proceeded half a mile ere 1 heard tlie report of two rifles, and, looking in the direction of the sound, 1 saw two Indians approaching with demonstra- tions of friendship. On reaching me, one of them exclaimed, "You are dead — you no live!" I explained to him that I had left my companion behind, and that we were both nearly starved to death. On this they spoke a few words to each other in their own language, and one started off like a race-horse, along the trail, while the other returned with me to my companion. As we approached him I could hear him moaning, "IIo, Jim! comeback! comeback! don't leave me!" We went up to him, and I informed him that we were safe ; that I had met the Indians, and we should soon be relieved. After waiting abou"; three hours, the rattling of hoofs was heard, and, looking up, we discovered a troop of Indians approaching at full speed. In another moment they were by our side. They brought with them a portion of light food, consisting of corn-meal made into a kind of gruel, of which they would give us but a small spoonful at short intervals. When Harris was sufficiently restored to mount a horse with the assist- JAMES I». IJECKWOURTII. 31 ancc of the Indians, we all started forward for the post. It appeared that the two Indians whom I had so fortunately encountered had lingered behind the main party to amuse themselves with target-shooting with their riilcs. Tlie one that started along the trail over- took the main body at a short distance, and, making our case known to them, induced them to return to our succor. We encamped with them that night, and they con- tinued the same regimen of small periodic doses of gruel. Several times a large Indian seized hold of an arm of each of us, and forced us into a run until our strength was utterly exhausted. Others of the party would then support us on each side, and urge us on till their own strength failed them. After this discipline, a spoonful or two of gruel would be admin- istered to us. This exercise being repeated several times, they at length placed before us a large dish con- taining venison, bear-meat, and turkey, with tlie invi- tation to eat all we wanted. It is unnecessary to say that I partook of such a meal as I never remember to have eaten before or since. Early the next day we arrived at the trading-post of Ely and Curtis, situate on the Missouri River, near the mouth of the Kansas. As I entered tlie house, I heard some one exclaim, *' Here comes Jim Beck- wourth and Black Ha ■ is," the name he went by where he was known. Ely sprang up to welcome us. *' Sure enough," said he, "it is they; but they look like corpses." Another voice exclaimed, "Halloo, Jim I what is the matter with you? Is it yourselves, or only your ghosts ? Come along and take some brandy, any way ; living or dead, you must be dry." 'A2 AITOimKSUAI'FCY Ol' Wc accepted the invitation, and took cacli a glass, wliicli, in our greatly reduced state, quite overpowered us. Left to my reflections, I resolved that, it' 1 sur- vived ray present dangers, 1 would return to civilized life. The extremities I had been reduced to had so moderated my resentments that, had I encountered my former dosfi, 1 should certainly have extended my hand to him with ready forgiveness. The Indians we had so opportunely fallen in with belonged to the Kansas band of the Osage tribe, and were on the way, as we had surmised, to dispose of their goods at the trading-post. Their wares consist- ed principally of peltry, obtained by their sagacity in trapping, and their skill in hunting the wild animals of the plains. In purchasing their skins of them, Messrs. Ely and Curtis rewarded the Indians very lib- erally with government atores for their humanity in succoring us when exhausted, and as an encouragement to relieve others whom they might chance to find sim- ilarly distressed. After thoroughly recruiting at the trading-post, where I received every attention from Messrs. Ely and Curtis, I started for St. Louis. On my arrival at G. Chouteau's trading-post, I calculated the intervening distance to St. Louis, and abandoned my intention of proceeding thither, delaying my return till the spring, when the ice would break up in the Missouri. Mr. Chouteau engaged me to assist in packing peltries dur- ing the winter, at twenty-five dollars per month. When the river was free from ice, I took passage in a St. Louis boat, and, after a quick run, arrived safe in the city early in the evening of the fifth day. Shortly after my arrival I fell in with General Ash- ley, who had returned to the city for more men. The gcnl % i me wIk dcclj afteil tiic .JAMKS I'. llECKWOUUTrr. :i:l gcu.ral was greatly surprised to sec nic, Iic having cone iuded that my fate liad been the same with hund- reds (t* others, engaged to fur companies, who liad per- ished with cold and starvation. The general informed me that he had engaged one hundred and twenty men, who were already on their road to the mountains, lie declared I was just the man he was in search of to ride after and overtake the men, and accompany them to the mountains, and added that I must start the next morning. My feelings were somewhat similar to those of a young sailor on his return from his first voyage to sea. I liad achieved one trip to the wild West, and had returned safe, and now I was desirous of spend- ing a long interval with my father. I suffered the ar- guments of the old general to prevail over mc, how- ever, and I re-engaged to him, with the promise to start on the following morning. This afforded me short time to visit my friends, to whom I just paid a flying visit, and returned to the city in the morning. After attending to the general's instructions, and receiving eight hundred dollars in gold to carry to Mr. Fitzpatrick (an agent of General Ashley then station- ed in the mountains), I mounted a good horse, and put on in pursuit of the party, who were five or six days' journey in advance. I may here remark that the general had been re- cently mnrriod, and, feeling some reluctance to tear himself away from the delights of Hymen, he sent me on for the performance of his duties. The general followed after in about a week, and overtook the party at Franklin, on the Missouri. It was early May when I commenced my journey. Unfolding Nature presented so many charms that my B2 JM MTOHKHJHAFMIV < H' j)rcviouH suftbrings were obliterated tVom my iniinl. Tlic trees were clothing theniselveH with freshest ver- dure, flowers were unveiling their beauties on every side, und birds were caroling their sweetest songs from every bough. These sights and sounds struck more pleasantly upon my senses than the Iiowl of the wolf and the scream of the ])anthcr, which assailed our cars in the forests and prairies of the wild West. After being joined by our general, we proceeded up the ]\rissouri to Council I Muffs, and thence struck out for the J Matte country. Soon after our arrival on the riatto we had the great misfortune to lose nearly all our horses, amountin^]j to about two hundred head, stolen from us by the Indians. \Vc followed their trail for some time, but, deeming it useless to follow mounted Indians while wc were on foot, our general gave up the pursuit. Wc could not ascertain what tribe the robbers belonged to, but I have since l)cen convinced they were either the I-a-tans or the Arrap- a-hos. Our general then gave orders to return to the ]\Iis- Rouri and purchase all. the horses wc needed, while he returned to St. Louis to transact some affairs of busi- ness, and possibly pay his devotions to his very esti- mable lady. Wc succeeded in obtaining a supply of horses after retracing about two hundred miles of our journey, pay- ing for them with drafts upon General Ashley in St. Louis. We then again returned to our camp on the Platte. This adventure occupied nearly the whole summer ; and we guarded against a repetition of the misfortune by strictly watching the horses day and night. While a portion of the company were engaged in making purchase of our second supply of horses, the 1 ■• Li .h\Mm v, luxKwuruTii. 85 othor portion rcniuinoil on tlu' ground to hunt and trap, and gatlicr tocjotlmr a .'supply ot' [)rovision tor our <'Oii- Huniption. Tliiiy nici "vvith oxcjdiirnt success, and cauglit a great innnbcr of bcavcrn and otters, together with a quantity of game. General Ashley rijoincd us in September, and by liis orders Fitzpatriek and a Robert Campbell pro- ceeded to the Ijoup fork, taking with them all the men, except eight, avIio remained behind with the general, to ascend the Platte in (piest of the company he left there the preceding winter, from which Harris and my- self had been detached on our expedition to the J*aw- ncc camp. After several days' travel we found the company wc were seeking. They were all well, had been success- ful in traj)ping, and had made some good trades with straggling parties of Indians in the exchange of goods for peltry. They had lured rather hard a part of the time, as game, which was their sole dependence, was often difficult to obtain. I should here mention that we found Harris in the course of our second trip, who rejoined our company, well and hearty. Fur companies in those days had to depend upon their rifles for a supply of food. No company could possibly caiTy provisions sufficient to last beyond the most remote white settlements. Our food, therefore, consisted of deer, wild turkeys (which were found in great abundance), bear-meat, and, even in times of scarcity, dead liorses. Occasionally a little flour, sug- ar, and coflee might last over to the mountains ; but those who held these articles asked exorbitant prices for them, and it was but few who tasted such luxuries. We were now in the buffalo country, but the In- 36 ACTOBKMiKAIMlY oK dians had driven thorn all away. Before wc left the settlcmcnits, our party niudc free use of the bee-hives, pigs, and poultry belonging to the settlers ; a maraud- ing practice commonly hidulged in by the mountain- eers, who well knew that the strength of their party secured them against any retaliation on the part of the sufferers. I'here were two Spaniards in our company, whom we one morning left behind ns to catch som ^ horses whi :h had strayed away i'rom the camp. The two men stopped at a house inhabited by a respectable white woman, and they, seemg her without protection, com- mitted a disgraceful assault upon her person. They were pursued to the camp by a number of the settlers, who made known to us the outrage committed U})on the woman. We all regarded the crime with the ut- most abhorrence, and felt mortiiied that any of our party should be guilty of conduct so revolting. The culprits were arrested, and they at once admitted their guilt. A council was called in the presence of the set- tlers, and the culprits offered their choice of two pun- ishments : either to be hung to the nearest tree, or to receive one hundred lashes each on the bare back. They chose the latter punishment, which was imme- diately inflicted upon them by four of our party. Hav- ing no cat-o'-nine-tails in our possession, the lashes were inflicted with hickory withes. Their backs were dreadfully lacerated, and the blood flowed in streams to the ground. The following morning the two Span- iards, and two of our best horses, were missing from the camp ; we did not pursue them, but, by the tracks we discovered of them, it was evident they had started for New Mexico. JAMES \\ I{i:(;KW()rRTH. M CIIAPTEU IV. Severe Sufferings in the Camp. — Grand Island. — Platte River. — Vp the South Fork of the Platte. — The Dog, the Wolf, and the firnt Buffalo. On our arrival at tlie upper camp, related in the pre- ceding chapter, we found the men, twenty-six in num- ber, reduced to short r.ations, in weakly condition, nnd in a discouraged state of mind. They had been ex- pecting the arrival of a large company with abundant supplies, and when we rejoined them without any pro- visions, they were greatly disappointed. General Ash- ley exerted himself to infuse fresh courage into their disconsolate breasts, well knowing himself, however, tliat, unless we could find game, the chances were hard against us. We remained in camp three or four days, until wc were well refreshed, and tlien deliberated upon our next proceeding. Knowing there must be game far- ther up the river, we moved forward. Our allowance was half a pint of flour a day per man, which wc made into a kind of gruel ; if we happened to kill a duck or a goose, it was shared as fairly as possible. T re- called to mind the incidents of our Pawnee expedition. The third evening we made a halt for a few days. We had seen no game worth a charge of powder dur- ing our whole march, and our rations were confined to the half pint of flour per day. We numbered thirty-four men, all told, and a dull- er encampment, I suppose, never was witnessed. jNo jokes, no fire-side stories, no fun ; each man rose in 38 Al'TOmOGUAlMlY OF the morning witli the gloom of" the precedhig night fill- ing his mind ; we huilt our fires and partook of our scanty repast without saying a word. At last our general gave orders for the best hunters to sally out and try their fortune. 1 seized my rifle and issued from the camp alone, feeling so reduced in strength that my mind involuntarily reverted to the extremity I had been reduced to with Harris. About three hundred yards from camp I saw two teal ducks ; I leveled my rifle, and handsomely decapitated one. This was a temptation to my constancy ; and appetite and conscientiousness had a long strife as to the dis- posal of the booty. I reflected that it would be but an inconsiderable trifle in my mess of four hungry men, while to roast and eat him myself would give me strength to hunt for more. A strong inward feel- ing remonstrated against such an invasion of the rights of my starving messmates ; but if, by fortifying my- self, I gained ability to procure something more sub- stantial than a teal duck, my dereliction would be suf- ficiently atoned, and my overruling appetite, at the same time, gratified. Had I admitted my messmates to the argument, they might possibly have carried it adversely. But I received the conclusion as valid ; so, roasting him without ceremony in the bushes, I devoured the duck alone, and felt greatly invigorated with the meal. Passing up the stream, I pushed forward to fulfill my obligation. At the distance of about a mile from the camp I came across a narrow deer-trail through some rushes, and directly across the trail, with only the centre of his body visible (his two extremities be- ing hidden by the rushes), not more than fifty yards distant, I saw a fine large buck standing. I did not I I AMES P. HErKWOUHTII. m Wc'iit for a nearer shot. 1 fired, and broke his back. I dispatched him by drawing ray knife across his throat, and, having partially dressed him, hung him on a tree close by. J'rocceding onward, 1 met a large white wolf, attracted, probably, by the scent of the deer. 1 shot him, and, depriving him of his meal, de- voted him for a repast to the camp. Before I return- ed, 1 succeeded in killing three good-sized elk, which, added to the former, allbrded a pretty good display of meat. I then returned near enough to the camp to signal to them to come to my assistance. They had heard the reports of my rifle, and, knowing that I would not waste ammunition, had been expecting to sec me re- turn with game. All who were able turned out to my summons ; and when they saw the booty awaiting them, their faces were irradiated with joy. Each man shouldered his load ; but there was not one capable of carrying the weight of forty pounds. The game being all brought into camp, the fame of "Jim Bcckwourth" was celebrated by all tongues. Amid all this gratulation, I could not separate my thoughts from the duck which had supplied my clan- destine meal in the bushes. I suffered them to ap- pease their hunger with the proceeds of my toil before I ventured to tell my comrades of the offense I had been guilty of. All justified my conduct, declaring my conclusions obvious. As it turned out, my proceed- ing was right enough ; but if I had failed to meet with any game, I had been guilty of an offense which would, ever after, have haunted me. At this present time I never kill a duck on my ranclie, and there are thousands of teal duck there, but I think of my feast in the bushes while my compan- 40 AlITOniOGHAlMIV i)V li ions were fainisliinc^ in tlio camp. Since tliat time 1 have never refused to share my last shiiHng, my last biscuit, or my only blanket with a friend, and 1 think the recollection of that " temptation in the wilderness" will ever serve as a lesson to more constancy in the future. The day following we started forward up the river, and, after progressing some four or hve miles, came in sight of plenty of deer-sign. The general ordered a halt, and directed all hunters out as before. We sal- lied out in diftcrent directions, our general, who was a good hunter, forming one of the luimber. At a sliort distance' from the camp I discovered a large buck pass- ing slowly between myself and the cam^), at about pis- tol-shot distance. As I happened to be standing against a tree, he had not seen me. I fired ; the ball passed through his body, and whizzed past the camp. Leaving him, I encountered^ a second deer within three quarters of a mile. I sliot him, and hung him on a limb. Encouraged with my success, I climbed a tree to get a fairer view of the ground. Looking around from my elevated position, I perceived some large, dark-colored animal grazing on the side of a hill, some mile and a half distant. 1 was determined to have a shot at him, whatever he might be. I knew meat was in demand, and that fellow, well stored, was worth more than a thousand teal ducks. I therefore approached, with the greatest precaution, to within fair rifle-shot distance, scrutinizing him very closely, and still unable to make out what he was. I could see no horns ; and if he was a bear, I thought him an enormous one. I took sight at him over my faithful rifle, which had never failed me, and then set it down, to contemplate the huge animal still farther. Fii I ed JAMES r. BECKWOIRTll. 41 II Finally, I resolved to let fly ; taking good aim, I jnill- ed trigger, the rifle cracked, and 1 then made rapid re- treat toward the camp. After running about two hund- red yards, and nearing nothing in movement behind me, I ventured to look round, and, to my great joy, I saw the animal had fallen. Continuing my course on to the camp, T encounter- ed the general, who, perceiving blood on my hands, addressed me, "Have you shot any thing, .rimV" I replied, " Yes, sir." " What have you shot ?" *' Two deer and something else," I answered. " And what is the something else f he incjuired. "I do not know, sir." "What did ho look like?" the general interroga- ted. " Had he horns ?" "I saw no horns, sir." "What color was the animal?" "You can sec him, general," I replied, "by climb- ing yonder tree." The general ascended the tree accordingly, and looking through his spy-glass, which he always car- ried, he exclaimed, "A buffalo, by heavens!" and, coming nimbly down the tree, he gave orders for us to take a couple of horses, and go and dress the buf- falo, and bring him into camp. I suggested that two horses could not carry the load ; six were therefore dispatched, and they all came back well packed with his remains. There was great rejoicing throughout the camp at such bountiful provision, and all fears of starvation were removed, at least for the present. The two deer were also brought in, besides a flne one killed by the general, and ducks, geese, and such like were freely 42 AITOBTOORAPTIY OF added Ly tlic other liunters, wlio had taken a v ider circuit. It appears strange tliat, although I had traveled hundreds of miles in the buffalo country, this one was the tirst 1 had ever seen. The conviction weighing ujioii my mind that it was a huge bear I was approach- ing had so excited me that, although within fair gun- shot, I. actually could not see his horns. The general and my companions had many a hearty laugh at my expense, lie often expressing wonder that my keen eye could not, when close to the animal, perceive the horns, while he could sec them plainly near two miles distant. A severe storm setting in about this time, had it not been for our excellent store of provisions we should most probably have perished of starvation. There was no game to be procured, and our horses were beginning to die for want of nourishment. We remained in this camp until our provisions were all expended, and our only resource was the flesh of the horses which died of starvation and exposure to the storm. It was not such nutritious food as our fat buftalo and venison, but in our present circumstances it relished tolerably well. Were (General Ashley now living, he would recol- lect the hardships and delights we experienced in this expedition. When the storm was expended we moved up the river, hoping to fall in with game. We, unfortunately, found but little on our course. When we had advanced some twenty miles we halted. Our position looked threatening. It was mid-winter, and every thing around us bore a gloomy aspect. We were without provisions, and we saw no means of obtaining any. At this crisis, six or seven Indians of the Pawnee Loup JAMES P. BECKWOTTRTH. 4;{ band came into our camp. Knowing them to be friend- ly, we were overjoyed to see them.. They informed our interpreter that their village was only four miles distant, which at once accounted for the absence of game. They invited us to their lodges, where tliey could supply us with every thing that we needed ; but on our representing to them our scarcity of hors(\s, and the quantity of peltry we had no means of pack- ing, they immediately started oft' to their village (our interpreter accompanying tliem) in quest of horses, and speedily returned with a sufticient number. Packing our effects, we accompanied tliem to their village, Two Axe, of whom I have previously made mention, and a Spaniard named Antoine Behelc, chief of the band; forming part of our escort. Arrived at their village, which we found well pro- vided with every thing we needed, the Indians gave us a hospitable reception, and spread a feast whicli, as they had promised, " made all our hearts glad." Our horses, too, were well cared for, and soon assumed a more rotund appearance. We purchased for our fu- ture use beans, pumpkins, corn, cured meat, besides some beaver-skins, giving them in exchange a variety of manufactured goods used in the Indian trade, of which we had a great plenty. We replaced our lost horses by purchasing others in their stead ; and now, every thing being ready for departure, our general in- timated to Two Axe his wish to get on. Two Axe objected. "My men are about to sur- round the I ufi'alo," he said ; " if you go now, you will frighten them. You must stay four days more, then you may go." His word was law, so we staid accordingly. Within the four days appointed they made "the 44 Al TnTMCKJRAIMt^ «H' Rurround,'' and killed fourteen hundred Ijuft'aloe.s. Tlu^ tongues were counted by (General Ashley himself.^ and thus I ean guarantee the truth of the assertion. To the reader unacquainted with the Indian mode of taking these animals, a concise description may not he uninteresting, o There were probably engaged in this Inmt from on(»- to two thousand Indians, some mounted and some on foot. They encompass a large S})ace where the buffa- loes are contained, and, closing in around them on all points, form a complete circle. Their circle at iirst in- closed may measure perhajis six miles in diameter, with an irregular circumference determined by tlui movements of the herd. AVlien "the surround" is formed, the hunters radiate from the main body to the right and left until the ring is entire. The cliief then gives the order to charge, which is communicated along the ring with the speed of lightning ; every man then rushes to the centre, and the work of destruction is be- gun. The unhappy victims, finding themselves hem- med in on every side, run this way and that in their mad cftbrts to escape. Finding all chance of escape impossible, and seeing their slaughtered fellows drop dead at their feet, they bellow with affright, and in the confusion that whelms them, lose all power of resist- ance. The slaughter generally lasts two or three hours, and seldom many get clear of the weapons of their assailants. The field over, the " surround" presents the appear- ance of one vast slaughter-house. lie who has been most successful in tlie work of devastation is cele- brated as a hero, and receives the highest honors from the "fair sex," while he who has been so unfortunate as not to kill a buffalo is jeered and ridiculed by the; JAMES 1». IJECKWOUUTII. 45 "vvliolc band. J'laying, dressing, and preserving the meat next engages their attention, and atibrds them lull employment lor several ■weeks. The " surround" accomplished, we received permis- sion from Two ^Vxe to take up our line of march. Ac- cordingly, we started along the river, and had only pro- ceeded live miles from the village when we found that tlie Platte forked. Taking the south fork, we jour- neyed on some six miles, when we encamped. So we continued every day, making slow progress, some days not advancing more than four or five miles, until we had left the Pawnee villages three hundred miles in our rear. We found plenty of buffalo along our route until we approached the Rocky Mountains, when the buffalo, as well as all other game, became scarce, and we had to resort to the beans and corn supplied us by the Pawnees. CHAPTER V. Sufi'firings on the Platte. — Arrive at the Rocky Mountains. — Fall out with General Ashley. — Horses again stolen by the Crow Indians. — Sickness of our General. — Rescue of the General from a wounil- ed Bullalo. — Remarkable Rescue of the General from the Grcon River " Suck." Not finding any game for a number of days, we again felt alarmed for our safety. The snow was deep on the ground, and our poor horses could obtain no food but the boughs and bark of the cotton-wood trees. Still we pushed forward, seeking +o advance as far as possible, in order to open a trade with the Indians, and occupy ourselves in trapping during tlte finish of the season. We were again put upon reduced rations, 40 AUT(jniU(jHAl'HY UF one pint of beans per clay being the allowance to a mesH of four men, with other articles in proportion. Jlere 1 had a .serious diflieulty with our general, which arose in the following manner. The general de- sired me to slioe his horse, which 1 cheerfully proceed- ed to do. 1 had finished setting three shoes, and had yet one nail to drive in the fourth, when, about to drive the last nail, the horse, which had been very restless during the whole time, \, .ihdrew his foot from me. My patience becoming exhausted, I iip2)lied the ham- mer several times to his belly, which is the usual pun- ishment inflicted by blacksmiths upon unruly horses. The general, who was standing near, flew into a vio- lent rage, and poured his curses thick and fast upon me. Feeling hurt at such language from the lips of a man whom I had treated like my own brother, 1 retort- ed, reminding him of the many obligations he owed me. ItOid him that his language to me was liarsli and un- merilod ; that I had thus far served him faithfully ; that I had done for him what no other man would do, periling my life for him on several occasions ; that I had been successful in killing game when his men were in a state of starvation ; and, warming at the re- capitulation, I added, "There is one more nail to drive, general, to finish shoeing that horse, which you may drive for yourself, or let go undriven, for I will see you dead before I will lift another finger to serve you." But little more was said on either side at that time. The next morning the general gave orders to pack up and move on. He showed me a worn-out horse, which he ordered me to pack and drive along. I very well knew that the horse could not travel far, even without a pack. t .lAlSIKS P. IJKCKWOITKTII. 47 Still, iriHuencud by the harsh language the gener- al had addressed to me on the previous day, I said, 'Mieneral, 1 will ])ack the horse, hut 1 wish you to understand that, whenever lie gives out, there 1 leave him, horse and paek." " Obey my orders, and let me have none of your insolence, sir," said the general. t was satisfied this was imposed upon me for pun- ishment, r, however, packed the horse with two pigs of lead and sundry small articles, and drove him along in the rear, the others having started a considerable time previous. The poor animal struggled on for about a mile, and then fell groaning under his bur- den. I unpacked him, assisted him to rise, and, re- packing him, drove him on again in the trail that the others had left in the snow. Proceeding half a mile farther, he again fell. I went through the same cere- mony as before, lie advanced a few yards, and fell a third time. Feeling mad at the general for imposing such a task upon me, my hands tingling with cold through handling the snowy pack-rojics, 1 seized my hammer from the pack, and, striking with all my pow- er, it penetrated the poor animal's skull. "There," said I, "take that! I only wish you were General Ashley." " You do, do you ?" said a voice from tlie bushes on the side of the trail. I well knew the voice : it was the general himself; and another volley of curses descended uninterrupt- edly upon my head. I was not the man to flinch. "What I said I meant,"! exclaimed, "and it makes no odds whether you heard it or not." " You are an infernal scoundrel, and I'll shoot you ;" 48 All'OUKJlJKAl'lIV UF and, suiting the action to the word, he cocked liis piece and leveled it. 1 cocked my rifle and presented it also, and then we stood at bay, looking each other direct in the eye. "(rcneral,"! at length said, "you have addressed language to nie which I allow no man to use, and, un- less you retract that last epithet, you or I must surely die." lie finally said, " I will acknowledge that it was language which never should be used to a man, but when 1 am angry I am apt to speak hastily. But," he added, "1 will make you suffer for this." "Not in your service, general,"! replied. "You can take your horse now, and do what you please with him. 1 am going to return to St. Louis." The general almost smiled at the idea. " You will play going back to St. Louis," he said, "when, in truth, you w*ere afraid of beino" ' illcd by the Indians, through beinff left too far bchi ith that old horse." I left general, horse, and pack, and started on to overtake the advanced party, in order to get my sad- dle-bags before leaving them. Approaching the party, I advanced to Fitzpatrick (in whose possession they were) and addressed him: "Hold up, Fitzpatrick; give me my saddle-bags. I am going to leave you, and return to St. Louis." "What !" exclaimed he, " have you had more words with the general ?" "Yes," I replied, "words that will never be forgiv- en — by Tne, at least, in this life. I am bound to re- turn." "Well, "said he, " wait till we encamp, a few hund- ! JAMKS 1*. BKCKWIUKTII. 40 '1 I red yards alicad. Your tilings arc in the pack ; when we stop you can get them." I accompanied them till they cncam})cd ; then, tak- ing my goods from the pack, I was getting ready to return, when the general came up. Seeing me about to carry my threat into execution, he addressed me: "Jim, you have ammunition belong- ing to mc ; you can not take t/iat with you." Luckily, 1 had plenty of my own, so I delivered up all in my possession belonging to him. *' Sir," 1 said, " as Fortune has favored me with plenty, I deliver up yours ; but, if I had had none of my own, I would have retamed a portion of yours, or died in the attempt. And it seems to me that you must have a very small soul tj sec a man turned adrift without any thing to protect him against hos- tile savages, or procure him necessary food in travers- ing this wide wilderness." lie then said no more to me, but called Fitzpati'ick, and requested him to dissuade me from leaving. Fitz- patrick came, and exerted all his eloquence to deter mo from going, telling me of the great distance before me, the danger I ran, when alone, of being killed by In- dians — representing the almost certain fact that I must perish from starvation, lie reminded me that it was now jMarch, and the snows were already melting ; that Spring, with all its beauties, would soon be ushered in, and I should lose the sublime scenery of the Rocky Mountains. But my mind was bent upon going ; all my former love for the man was forfeited, and I felt I could never endiu'e his presence again. Fitzpatrick's mission having failed, tlie general sent a Frencli boy to intercede, toward whom I felt great C .50 AI'TUBIOISKAI'IIY OF attaclimcnt. Jlo was named Baptistc La Jcunesse, and was al)Oiit seventeen years of age. I Iiad many limes protected this lad from the abuse of his coun- trymen, and had fought several battles on his account, for -vvliich reason he naturally tied to mc for protection, and had grown to regard me in the light of a father. AViien this boy saw that 1 was in earnest about leaving, fearing that all attempts at persuasion would be useless, he hung his nether lip, and appeared per- fectly disconsolate. The general, calling this lad to him, desired him to come to me and persuade mc from the notion of leav- ing. He pledged his word to Baptiste that he would say no more to displease mc ; that he would spare no efforts to accommi date mc, anl offered mc free use of his horses, assigning as a reason for this concession that he was unwilling for word to reach the States that he had suffered a man to perish in the wilderness through a little private difiiculty in the camp. At this moment Le Pointc presented himself, mani- festing by his appearance that he had something of im- portance to communicate. "General," said he, "more than half the men are determined to leave with Beckwourth ; they are now taking annnunition from the sacks and hiding it about. What is to be done?" " I will do the best I can." Then turning to the lad, he said, " I took Jim's ammunition, thinking to de- ter him trom going; had he insisted upon going, I should have furnished him with plenty. Go now," he added, "and tell him I want him to stay, but if he insists upon going, to take whatever he wants." Ba])tiste left the group which surrounded the gener- al, and made his way to mc, with his head inclined. "til tell .)AMi;« V. lilX'KWOUKTlI. 51 *'Mon frore,'* said the lad, addressing me as 1 sat, *•• the general talk much good. He vant you stay. I tell him you no stay ; dat you en colore. I tell him if" nion frere go, by gar, I go too. lie say, you go talk to Jim, and get him stay. I tell you vat I tink. You stay leetlc longer, and if de general talk you bad one time more, den vc go, by gar. You take von good horse, me take von good horse too ; ve carry our plan- kct, ve take some viande, and some poudre — den ve live. Ve go now — ve take noting — den ve die." T knew that the boy gave good advice, and, foregoing my former resolve, I concluded to remain. My decision was quickly communicated to the whole camp, and the hidden parcels of ammunition were re- stored to their proper places. The storm in the camp ceased, and all were ready to proceed. I have heard scores of emigrants (when stopping with me in my "hermitage," in Beckwourth Valley, California) relate their hair-breadth escapes from In- dians, and various hardships endured in their passage across the Plains. They would dwell upon their per- ilous nights when standing guard ; their encounters with Indians, or some daring exploit with a buffalo. These recitals were listened to with incredulous ears ; for there is in human nature such a love of the mar- velous, that traditionary deeds, by dint of repetition, become appropriated to the narrator, and the tales that were related as actual experience now mislead the speaker and the audience. AVlien I recurred to my own adventures, I would smile at the comparison of their sufferings with what myself and other men of the mountains had really en- dured in former times. The forts that now afford pro- tection to the traveler were built by ourselves at the 52 AUTOBIOGllAPIIVr OF constant peril of our lives, amid Indian trib'^s nearly double their present numbers. Without wives and children to comfort us on our lonely way; without well-furnished wagons to resort to when hungry ; no roads before us but trails temporarily made; our clothing consisting of the skins of the animals that had fallen before our unerring rifles, and often whole days on insufficient rations, or entirely without food ; occa- sionally our whole party on guard the entire night, and our strength deserting us through unceasing watching and fatigue ; these are sufferings that made theirs ap- pear trivial, and ours surpass in magnitude my power of relation. Without doubt, many emigrants were subjected 1o considerable hardship, during the early part of the em- igration, by the loss of cattle, and the Indians came in for their fuU share of blame. But it was through extreme carelessness that so many were lost ; and those who have charged their losses upon the Indians have frequently found their stock, or a portion of it, harnessed to wagons either far in advance of them, or lagging carelessly in their rear. The morality of the whites I have not found to exceed very much that of the red man ; for there are plenty of the former, belong- ing to trains on the routes, who would not hesitate to take an ox or two, if any chance offered for getting hold of them. But to return. At the time when I had concluded to proceed with the party, we were encamped in the prairie, away from any stream (having passed the fork of the Platte), and were again in a starving condition. Except an occasional hare or rabbit, there was no sign of supplying ourselves with any kind of game. We traveled on till we arrived at Pilot Butte, where were i was t and i worse to j^ro Imnt, i ing ne in difl ing. miles i reachcc survey this rcj ing fou served buffalo. oveijoy opportu accclcra my sue ened uf be at th The I to move left, anc goods tl] desired i ter, and The ] (wliich i so heavi but theii the gene JAMES r. BECKWOIJRTH. .03 two misfortunes befell us. A great portion of our horses were stolen by the Crow Indians, and General Asliley was taken sick, caused, beyond doubt, by exposure and insufficient fare. Our condition was growing worse and worse ; and, as a measure best calculated to procure relief, we all resolved to go on a general hunt, and bring home something to supply our press- ing necessities. All who were able, therefore, started in different directions, our customary mode of hunt- ing. I traveled, as near as I could judge, about ten miles from the camp, and saw no signs of game. I reached a high point of land, and, on taking a general survey, I discovered a river whicli 1 had never seen in this region before. It was of considerable size, flow- ing four or Ave miles distant, and on its banks I ob- served acres of land covered with moving masses of buffalo. I hailed this as a perfect Godsend, and was overjoyed with the feeling of security infused by my opportune discovery. However, fatigued and weak, I accelerated my return to the camp, and communicated my success to my companions. Their faces bright- ened up at the intelligence, and all were impatient to be at them. The general, on learning my intelligence, desired us to move forward to the river with what horses we had left, and each man to carry a pack on his back of the goods that remained after loading the cattle. He farther desired us to roll up snow to j^rovide him with a shel- ter, and to return the next day to see if he survived. The men, in their eagerness to get to the river (which is now called Green River), loaded themselves so heavily that three or four were left with nothing but their rifles to carry. Though my feelings toward the general were still unfriendly (knowing that he had 54 AlToHKHiKAl'HV UK expressed sentiments concerning me tJiat were totally mnncritetl), 1 could not reconcile myself to deserting him in iiis present helpless contlition. iVccordingly, I informed him that if he thought he could endure the journey, I would make arrangements to enable him to proceed along with the company. He appeared charmed with the magnanimty of the proposal, and declared his willingness to endure any thing in reason. Ilis consent obtained, I prepared a light litter, and, with the assistance of two of the un- laden men, placed him upon it, in the easiest position possible ; then, attaching two straps to the ends of the litter-bars, we threw them over our shoulders, and, tak- ing the bars in our hands, hoisted om* burden, and pro- ceeded with all the ease imaginable. Our rifles were can'ied by the third man. The anxiety of the general to remain with us pre- vented his giving utterance to the least complaint, and we all anived in good season on the banks of Green River. We were rejoiced to find that our companions who preceded us had killed a tine buffalo, and we abandoned ourselves that evening to a general spirit of rejoicing. Our leader, in a few days, entirely recov- ered, and wc were thus, by my forethought in bringing him with us, spared the labor of a return journey. Wc all feasted ourselves to our hearts' content upon the delicious, coarse-grained flesh of the buftalo, of which there was an unlimited supply. There were, besides, plenty of wild geese and teal ducks on the liv- er — the latter, however, I very seldom ventured to kill. One day several of us were out Imnting buffalo, the general, who, by the way, was a very good shot, being among the number. The snow had blown from the level prairie, and the wind had drifted it in deep mass- ng , T he to he ny m- on he k- o- re en ns ve :it V- )n V- 16 IC 1" H JAMES P. BECKWOURTH. in ID U IC W H a g o 1 cf? over the marpjins of the small hills, through •vvliicl) the butialo had made trails just wide enough to admit one at a time. These snow-trails had beeome ([uite deep — like all snow-trails in the spring of the }'ear — thus affording us a line opportunity for lurking in one trail, and shooting a huft'alo in another. The general had wounded a hull, which, smarting with pain, made a furious plunge at his assailant, burying Iiim in the snow with a thrust from his savage-looking head and liorns. I, seeing the danger in wiiich he was placed, sent a ball into the beast just behind the shoulder, in- stantly dropping him dead. The general was rescued from almost certain death, having received only a few scratches in the adventure. After remaining in camp four or five days, the gen- eral resolved upon dividing our party into detachments of four or five men each, and sending them upon dif- ferent routes, in order the better to accomplish the ob- ject of our perilous journey, which was the collecting all the beaver-skins possible while the fur was yet valuable. Accordingly, we constructed several boats of buffalo hides for the purpose of descending the riv- er and proceeding along any of its tributaries that might lie in our way. One of our boats being finished and launched, the general sprang into it to test its capacity. The boat was made fast by a slender string, which snapping with the sudden jerk, the boat was drawn into the current and drifted away, general and all, in the di- rection of the opposite shore. It will be necessary, before I proceed farther, to give the reader a description, in as concise a manner as possible, of this "Green River Suck." We were encamped, as we had discovered during C2 58 AUTOniOORAPIIY OP our frequent excursions, at tlie head of a great fall of the Green lliver, wlicrc it passes througli the Utah Mountains. The current, at a small distance from our camp, became exceedingly rapid, and drew toward the centre from each shore. This place we named the Suck. This fall continued for six or eight miles, mak- ing a sheer descent, in the entire distance, of upward of two hundred and fifty feet. The river was filled with rocks and ledges, and frequent sharp curves, hav- ing high mountains and perpendicular clifts on either side. Below our camp, the river passed through a canyon, or canon, as it is usually written, a deep river- pass through a bluff or mountain, which continued be- low the fall to a distance of twenty-five or thirty miles. Wherever there was an eddy or a growth of willows, there was sure to be found a beaver lodge ; the cun- ning creatures having selected that secluded, and, as they doubtless considered, inaccessible spot, to conceal themselves from the watchful eye of the trapper. To return to the general. His frail bark, having reached the opposite shore, encountered a ledge of rocks, and had hardly touched, when, by the action of the rolling current, it was capsized, and he thrown struggling into the water. As Providence would have it, he reached the bluff on the opposite side, and, hold- ing on to the crevices in the high and perpendicular cliff, sung out lustily for assistance. Not a moment was to be lost. Some one must attempt to save him, for he could not hold his present position, in such cold water, long. I saw that no one cared to risk his life amid such immi- nent peril, so, calling to aFrenchman of the name of Dor- way, whom I knew to be one of the best swimmers, to come to the rescue, I threw off my leggins and plunged iui cap tolc ibil if a JAMKJS 1'. BECKWOMHTM. 6] Previous to this, and after his rescue from the " Suck," he lucntioncd to iMtzpatrick that T ought to have the lead of a party, and tiiat he believed I was as capable as any one in the company for it. Fitzpatrick told him he did not believe I would accept the response ibility. The general bade him ask me. lie came and communicated to me our generaPs wish, and asked mc if I would take the leadership of one of our detached parties. I declined the offer, assigning ci.s my reason that I was too young to undertake tlie responsibilities of the charge ; that this was my first trip to the mountains, and I had but little experience in trapping, and that there Avere older men better qualified for the duty. The leadership of a party of a fur company is a very responsible post. Placed similarly to a captain of a whaling vessel, where all depends upon his success, if a captain is fortunate, and returns from a profitable voyage, of course, in the eyes of the owners, he is a first-rate officer, and stands well for the future. But if he has experienced unusual hardships, and returns more or less unsuccessful, he is disgraced in his com- mand, and is thrust aside for a more fortunate man. It is just similar with trappers in the mountains ; whatever is their fortune, good or bad, the leader is the person on whom the praise or blame falls. 62 AUTOniOfJItAPllY OF CHAPTER VI. Wo spparr.tR into six "Dotnchmcnts, and start out. — Trapping on Orcrn Uivrr. — Narrow Escape from a Massacre by tlic Arrap-a-hos. — Ow Man njunlcrcd in Camp. — llctrcat. — Fall in with a Detachment ot our Company. — Great Joy at tijc Meeting. — Return of the Detach ments to tlic Place of Rendezvous at the " Suck." Afteu "caching" our peltry and goods by burying them in safe phices, we received instructions from our general to rendezvous at the " Suck" by the first of July following. Bidding each other adieu, for wc could hardly expect we should meet again, wc took up our different lines of march. Our party consisted, led by one Clements, of six, among whom was the boy Baptiste, he always insist- ing on remaining with his brother (as he called me). Our route was up the river — a country that none of us had ever seen before — where the foot of the white man had seldom, if ever, left its print. We were very suc- cessful in finding beaver as we progressed, and we ob- tained plenty of game for the wants of our small party. Wherever wc hauled up a trap, we usually found a beaver, besides a considerable number we killed with the rifle. In moving up the river we came to a small stream — one of tlie tributaries of Green River — which wc named " Horse Creek," in honor of a wild horse we found on its banks. The Creek abounded with the objects of our search, and in a very few days we suc- ceeded in taking over one hundred beavers, the skins of which were worth ten dollars per pound in St. Lou- i i liun Ilor cecd cnco name niur( fijroat and JAMES P. nKCKWO'/IlTH. (\l\ h tc Ic |e I Id. Sixty skins, when dried, funned a pack of one hundred pounds. After having iinished our work on Horse Creek, wc returned to the main river, and pro- ceeded on, meeting with very good success, until we encountered another brancli, which we subsequently named Lc Brache Creek, from our comrade who was murdered by the Indians. Our success was mucli jGjreatcr here than at any point since leaving the Suck, and wc followed it up until wc came to a deep cahoiu ill which we encamped. The next day, while the men were variously en- gaged about the camp, happening to be in a more el evated position than the others, I saw a party of In- dians approacliing within a few yards, evidently un- aware of our being in their neighborhood. I imme- diately shouted, " Indians ! Indians ! to your guns, men!" and leveled my rifle at the foremost of them. They held up their hands, saying, "Bueno! bueno!" mcani.^g that they were good or friendly; at which my companions cried out to me, " Don't fire ! don't fire ! tluiy are friendly — they speak Spanish." lUit we wcro sorry afterward we did not all shoot. Our horses had taken fright at the confusion and ran up the canon. Baptiste and myself went in pursuit of them. When wc came back with them we found sixteen Indians sitting around our camp smoking, and jabbering their own tongue, which none of us understood. They passed the night and next day with us in apparent friendship. Thinking this conduct assumed, from the fact that they rather '* overdid the thing," we deemed it prudent to retrace our steps to the open prairie, where, if they did intend to commence an attack upon us, we should have a fairer chance of defending our- selves. Accordingly, we packed up and left, all the Indians following us.