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Un des symboles suivants apparaftra sur la dernidre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbols — ► signifie "A SUiVRE ". le symbols V signifie "FIN". lire Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre film6s d des taux de reduction diffirents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seui cliche, 11 est film6 d partir de !'angle supirleur gauche, de gauche d droite, et dc haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images ndcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la m6thode. by errata led to mt me pelure, a^on d 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 wo SimkRD AUTHORS. (Form No. -19.) BUFFALO PUBLIC SCHOOL LIBRARY. 0-^ Books are to be delivered only to inhabitants of ihe District. Only one can be delivered to one person at a time. Any one having a book out of the Library must re- turn it before he can receive anciher. No person under age cau be permitted to take a book unless he resides with some responsible inhabit- ant of the District. Every book must be returned to the Library within fourteen days after it shall have been taken out. For the detention or injury of books the following fines will be imposed: For each day's detention pf a book beyond the time allowed by these regulations, six cents. , For the loss or destruction of a book, a fine equal to its full value. For every spot of grease or oil upon the cover or leaf of any book, six cents. For writing in, cutting, or otherwise defacing any book, rendering it unfit for use, not less than ten cents nor more than the value of the book. ^^A\\ persons receiving books from the Library are requested to read the regulations prescribed by law. /L Di strict No. ^ C-/— .■ • rWiJkV/AJl* PETER PAUL BOOK CO., BUFFALO,- N.Y. c, BROADWAY AND ELEVENTH ST. Apposite Grace Church, NEW YORK. The most centrally located hotel in the city, conducted on the European plan, at moderate prices. Recently enlarged by a new and handsome ad- dition that doubles its former capacity. The new Dining Room is one of the finest specimens of Colonial Decoration in this country, WILLIAM TAYLOR. Better go to Halifax. It is the most direct way to reach all points in Nova Scotia, Cape Breton, Prince Edward Island, and Newfoundland. Besides, you will be ONLY ONE NIGHT AT SEA, and can travel by the safest, m^st comfortable, and speediest steamer .^ailing out of Boston for those points, being the well-known and popular CANADA ATLANTIC LINE STEAMER "HALIFAX." Nova Scotia and Cape Breton have become the ideal Summer Resorts, and thousands are floCking thither. Sailings are made from the Savannah Pier. North side of Lewis Wharf, Boston, every SATURDAY, AT NOON. For more frequent sailings during the Summer see dailv pa|)ers. Tickets may be obtained of A. DeW. SAMPSON, 306 Washing- ton St., and of the Agents, RICHARDSON & BARNARD, 20 Atlantic Ave., Boston. Unlike the Dutch Process No Alkalies -OR — Other Chemicals are used in the preparation of W. Baker & Co.'s Breakfast Cocoa ivhich is absolutely pure and soluble, , ,, It has more than three times the strength of Cocoa mixed with starch, arrowroot, or sugar, and is far more economical, COSTING LESS THAN ONE CENT A CUP. It is delicious, nourishing, and EASILY DIGESTED. The use of chemicals in cocoa made by the Dutch process can be readily detected by the peculiar odor from newly opened packages, and also from a glass of water in which a small quantity of chemically treated cocoa has been placed and allowed to remain for several' days. For more than One Hundred Years the house of Walter Baker & Co. have made their Cocoa Preparations Absolutely Pure, using NO Patent Process, Alka- lies, or Dyes. W. BAKER & CO., Dorchester, Mass. I B; MARITIME PROVINCES: A — -~ HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS. A GUIDE TO THE CHIEF CITIES, COASTS, AND ISLANDS OF THE MARITIME PROV- INCES OF CANADA, AND TO THEIR SCENERY AND HISTORIC ATTRACTIONS ; WITH THE GULF AND RIVER OF ST. LAWRENCE TO QUEBEC AND MONTREAL; ALSO, NEWFOUNDLAND AND THE LABRADOR COAST. With Four Maps and Four Plarts, NINTH EDITION, REVISED AND ENLARGED. The timetables of the Provincial steamers are liable to change. Intend- ing tourists should urrite to the agents of the International^ Yarmouth, and Prince-Edward Island lines, at Boston, for their latest folders, showing times qf sailing, excursion-rates, etc. BOSTON AND NEW YORK : HOUGHTON, MIFFLIN AND COMPANY. 1893 fC 1^^^' S") (§1 Copyright, 1876 and 1884, By JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO. Copyright, 1888, By TICKNOR & CO. Copyright, 1891 and 1892, By HOUGHTON, MIFFLIN & CO. SUPPLEMENT FOR 1893. r The practical consolidation in 1893 of the Nova-Scotia and Florida fleets of merchant steamships, in the Plant system, has wrought great changes in the routes and times of sea communication between Boston and Halifax, etc. Better accommodations are offered, as to time and as to ships. The final details will not be wrought out until summer, and can then be learned from the Boston newspapers and the Pathfinder Railway Guide. Basin of Minas (page 101). The steamboat Hiawatha runs one trip weekly between Hantsport and Parrsboro' ; and once weekly from Hantsport to St. John^ Pictoa (page 187). A steamer leaves every Wednesday for Arisaig, Cape George, Port Hood, Mabou, Margaree, and Cheticamp (see, also, page 168). Charlottetown (page 175). Steamboats leave daily for Pictou. Sammerside (page 179). Steamers rim daily between Summerside and Point du ChSne. St. John's. Newfoundland (page 190). The most interesting part of the city, including the Anglican Cathedral and many other fine build- ings, was burned in 1892. Quebec (page 255). A great new hotel has been erected on ihe Dufferin Terrace. PREFACE. The chief object of the Handbook to the Maritime Provinces is to supply the place of a guide in a land where professional guides cannot be found, and to assist the traveller in gaining the greatest possible amount of pleasure and information while passing through the most interesting portions of Eastern British America. The St. Lawrence Provinces have been hitherto casu- ally treated in books which cover wider sections of country (the best of which have long been out of print), and the Atlantic Provinces have as yet received but little attention of this kind. The present guide-book is the first v hich has been devoted to their treatment in a combined form and according to the most approved principles of the European works of similar purpose and character. It also includes descriptions of the remote and interesting coasts of Newfoundland and Labrador, which have never before been mentioned in works of this character. The Handbook is designed to enable travellers to visit any or all of the notable places in the Maritime Provinces, with economy of money, time, and temper, by giving lists of the hotels with their prices, descriptions of the various routes by land and water, and maps and plans of the principal cities. The letter-press contains epitomes of the histories of the cities and the ancient settlements along the coast, statements of the principal scenic attractions, descriptions of the art and architecture of the cities, and statistics of the chief industries of the included Provinces. The brilliant and picturesque records and traditions of the early French and Scottish colonies, and the heroic exploits of the Jesuit missionaries, have received special attention in connection with the localities made famous in those remote days ; and the remarkable legends and mythology of the Micmac Indians ar« IV PREFACE. incorpomted with the accounts of the places made classic by them The naval and military operations of the wars which centred on P "<.^ \ 9r <1^ ^ ^i 4^. ^li. ;V 'V- ] i H .»' i' s\y\y ••••1 -VA .* V-' <\ ^7 ij r s/^ y ^- r i I PAOI . 1 'I J 4 6 7 7 8 8 9 i 13 15 . 22 22 . 23 24 j. 25 28 , 30a ' 30 . 32 33 . 35 36 . 37 39 . 40 42 . 44 46 . 47 48 . 49 .^ ^ New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, and Prince Edward Island. For Sw( 19«8' 20 21 22 6**28 24 J, ^ / jfumeon lauKB /3 r\. tow* aisrrn.a.' ai'.."gy '' isrorMr* ^afottoya/noij cAjispticelbK. tJTBAJ) , ^ Laki ^ t^ Bancrt ' tiq^ c''"***"*! ^roo W6rk« ' l:>tUwiiiiket u. ^<.'^ or>tf If 5>)f>=& •^» .«? /ilncoln ,funmfj,ate ■iilIfojcJV>_iuiio»lS ujcl Ijll 1 <««n, '^'niluJit I. "^ ' tamtrtUlt ^ •' .M-v!""'"""' 1 '^fl... «M, ,**■ ^^■- 'JIW II UI I i > I fc-»-!T» ,■ / ^W. .'r-' *ft^ I iiwimi ifiimyiii jii>ii inm i 1 Y\ M 5 (•: lMS'»^'*l% I T ji^Mtawfcw^iMi—MCi* ■MM nMha ■MP '€?^ 9i J I CONTENTS. PAO I. Plan of Tour II, Newfoundland and Laurapor . III. Money and Travellino Expenses IV. Railways and Steamboats. V. Round-Trip Excursions . VI. Hotels VII. Language VIII. Climate and Dress IX. Fishing X. Miscellaneous Notes NEW BRUNST7ICK. route General Notes 1. St. John 2. The Environs of St. John 1. Lily Lake. Marsh Road 2. Mispeck Road. Suspeusiou Bridge 3. Carleton 8. St. John to Eastfort and St. Stephen. Tassamaquoddy Bay 4. Grand Manan 78. Campobello 5. St. John to St. Andrews and St. Stephen. Passamaquoddy Bay 1. St. George. Lake Utopia 2. St. Andrews. Charncook Mountain 3. St. Stephen. Schoodic Ijakes 6. St. Andrews and St. Stephen to Woodstock and Houlton 7. St. John to Bangor 8. St. John to Fredericton. The St. John River .... 1. Kennebecasis Bay 2. Belleisle Bay 8. Fredericton 4. Fredericton to Miraniichi 9. Washademoak Lake 10. Grand Lake 11. Fredericton to Woodstock 12. Fredericton to W^oodstock, by the St. John River . 13. Woodstock to Grand Falls and Riviere du Loup . . . . 8 8 9 13 15 22 22 23 84 25 28 30a 30 82 88 35 36 37 89 40 42 44 46 47 48 49 61 A ^ t vi . CONTENTS. / V BOUTE PAGE 1. Tobique to Bathurst 54 2. The St. Jolin to the Restigouche 66 8. The Madawaska District 67 4. The Maine Woods. Temiscouata Lake 68 14. St. John to Shediac 59 15. The Bay of Chaleur and the North Shore of New Brunsavick 60 1. Chatham to Shii)i)igan 61 2. Shippigan. Bay of Chaleur 64 3. Bathurst to Caracjuette 66 4. Campbellton to St. Flavie 69 16. St. John to Amherst and Halifax 70 1. Quaco. Sussex Vale 71 2. Albert County. Monoton to Quebec 72 3. Dorchester, Sackville 73 NOVA SCOTIA. General Notes 75 17. St. John to Amherst and Halifax 78 1. Tantramar Marsh. Chignecto Peninsula 79 2. North Shore of Nova Scotia 81 18. St. John to Halifax, by the Annapolis Valley ... 83 1. Annapolis Royal 85 2. The Annapolis Valley 88 3. Kentville to Chester 90 19. Halifax 93 20. The Environs of Halifax 100 1. Bedford Basin. Point Pleasant 100 21. The Basin of Minas. Halifax to St. John 101 1. Advocate Harbor and Cape d'Or 103 2. The Basin of Minas 104 22. The Land of Evangeline 107 23. Annapolis Royal to Clare and Yarmouth 112 1. The Clare Settlements 113 2. The Tusket Lakes and Archipelago 115 24. DiOBY Neck 116 25. Halifax to Yarmouth. The Atlantic Coast of Nova Scotia . 117 1. Cape Sambro. Lunenburg 118 2. Liverpool 120 8. Shelburne 121 4. Cape Sable 123 26. Halifax to Yarmouth, by the Shore Route .... 126 1. Chester. Mahone Bay 127 2. Chester to Liverpool 128 ifl. The Liverpool Lakes 129 28. Halifax to Tangier 181 29. The Northeast Coast of Nova Scotia 133 80. Sable Island 134 i I. t { PAGE 54 56 67 68 59 60 61 64 66 69 70 71 72 73 75 78 79 81 83 85 88 90 93 100 100 101 103 104 107 112 113 115 116 117 118 120 121 123 126 127 128 129 181 133 134 CONTENTS. vil V soute paob 31. St. John and Halifax to Pictou 136 82. St. John and Halifax to the Stkait of Canso and Cape Breton 138 CAPE BRETON. General Notes 141 33. The Strait of Canso 142 34. Arichat and Isle Madame 145 35. The Strait of Canso to Sydney, Cape Breton .... 146 36. Halifax to Sydney, Cape Breton 148 87. The East Coast oi Cape Breton. The Sydney Coal-Field3 . 152 38. The Fortress of Louisbourg 154 39. The North Shore of Cape Breton 158 1. St. Anne's Bay 158 2. St. Paul's Island 160 40. The Bras d'Or Lakes 161 1. Baddeek 162 2. Great Bras d'Or Lake 164 8. The Bras d'Or to Halifax 166 41. Baddeck to Mabou and Port Hood 167 1. St. Patrick's Channel. Whycocomagh 167 42. The West Coast of Cape Breton 168 1. Port Hood. Mabou 169 2. Margaree. The Lord's Day Gale 170 PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. General Notes 172 43. Shediac to Summerside and Charlottetown .... 174 1. The Northumberland Strait 174 44. Pictou to Prince Edward Island 175 45. Charlottetown 175 1. Environs of Charlottetown 177 46. Charlottetown to Summerside and Tignish. The Western Shores of Prince Edward Island 177 1. Rustico. Summerside 178 47. Charlottetown to Georgetown 180 48. Charlottetown to Souris 182 49. The Magdalen Islands 183 50. St. Pierre and Miquelon 185 NEWFOUNDLAND. General Notes 187 51. Halifax to St. John's, Nev/foundland 188 62. St. John's, Newfoundland 189 63. The Environs of St. John's 195 1. Portugal Cove. Logle Bay. Torbay 195 64. The Strait Shore of Avalon. St. John's to Cape Race . . 196 VUl CONTENTS. ROUTE PAGE 1. The Grand Banks of Newfoundland 199 55. St. John's to Labrador. The Northern Coast of Newfoundijind 200 1. Bonavista Bay 203 2. Twillingate. Exploits Island 205 56. St. John's to Conception Bay 20C 57. Trinity Bay 208 58. The Bay of Notre Dame 210 59. Placentia Bay 212 60. The Western Outports. St. John's to Cape Ray .... 213 1. Fortune Bay 214 2. Hermitage Bay 215 61. The French Shore. Cape Ray to Cape St. John . . . 216 1. The Interior of Newfoundland 218 2. The Strait of Belle Isle 220 LABRADOR. General Notes 223 62. The Atlantic Coast, to the Moravian Missions and Greenland 224 1. The Moravian Missions 226 63. The Labrador Coast of the Strait of Belle Isle . . . 227 64. The Labrador Coast of the Gulf of St. Lawrence . . . 229 1. The Mingan Islands 231 2. The Seven Islands 232 65. Anticosti 234 PROVINCE OF QUEBEC. General Notes 235 66. PiCTOu TO Quebec. The Coasts of Gasp^ 238 1. Paspebiac 240 2. Perc6 242 3. Gasp6 244 67. The Lower St. Lawrence 246 1. Father Point. Rimouski 250 2. Bic. Trois Pistoles 251 3. St. Anne de la Pocati^re. L'lslet 253 68. Quebec 255 1. Durham Terrace 259 2. Jesuits' College. Basilica • . . 261 3. Seminary 262 4. Laval University. Parliament Building 263 5. Hotel Dieu. Around the Ramparts 266 6. The Lower Town 271 69. The Environs of Quebec 276 1. Beauport. Montmorenci Falls 276 2. Indian Lorette 278 3. Chateau Bigot. Sillery 280 4. Point Levi. Chaudiere Falls 282 \ I • CONTENTS. IX 203 205 206 208 210 212 213 214 215 216 218 220 . 223 'SD 224 . 226 227 . 229 231 . 232 234 235 238 240 242 244 246 250 251 253 255 259 261 262 263 266 271 276 276 278 280 282 I route faob 70. Quebec to La Bonne Ste. Anne 283 1. The Falls of St. Anne 286 71. The Isle of Orleans 288 72. Quebec to Cacouna and the Saguenay River .... 291 1. St. Paul's Bay 292 2. Murray Bay 294 3. Cacouna 296 73. The Saguenay River 297 1. Tadousac 299 2. Chicoutimi 300 3. Ha Ha Bay. Lake St. John 301 4. Eternity Bay. Cape Trinity 303 74. Quebec to Montreal. The St. Lawrence River . . . .305 75. Montreal 309 1. Victoria Square. Notre Dame 311 2. The Gesi\. St. Patrick's Church 313 3. Cathedral. McGill University. Great Seminary .... 314 4. Hotel Dieu. Mount Royal. Victoria Bridge .... 316 76. The Environs of Montreal 318 1. Around the Mountain. Sault au RecoUet 818 2. Lachine Rapids. Caughnawaga 319 3. Beloeil Mt. St. Anne 320 Index to Localities 321 Index to Historical and Biographical Allusions .... 332 Index to Quotations 333 Index to Railways and Steamboats 334 List of Authorities Consulted 834 MAPS. 1. Map of the Mahitime Pkovincks. 2. Map of the Acadian Land: between pages 106 and 107. 3. Map of the Saguenay River: opposite page 297. 4. Map of the Lower St. Lawkemce River : opposite page 297. PLANS OF CITIES. 1. St. John : between pages 14 and 15. 2. Halifax : between pages 92 and 93. 8. Quebec : between pages 254 and 255. 4. Montreal : between pages 808 and 309. ABBREVIATIONS. N. — Nortli, Northern, €\c. S. — Sou^H, etc. E. — East, etc. W. — West, etc. N. B. — New Brunswick. N. S. — Nova Scotia. N. P. — Newfoundland. Lab. ~ Labrador. P. E. I. — Prince Edward Island. P. Q. — Province of Quebec. M. — mile or miles. r. — right 1.— left. ft — foot or feet. hr. — hour. min. — minute or minutes. Aiterigks denote objects deserving of special attention. 297. THE MARITIME PROVINCES. md. 2. N.i E.- W. N.( N.f N. Lai Sen / S)II18, Sfluei • Sdth Maii ^Kami |Bth ii WTra\ 9l)Ii.sli - - .. 1"" 1 INTRODUCTION. I. Flan of Tour. The most profitable course for a tourist in the Lower Provinces is to Ikeep moving, and liis route should be made to include as many as pos- Isible of the points of interest which are easily accessible. Tiiere are but Ifew places in this region where the local attractions are of sufficient inter- jest to justify a prolonged visit, or where the accommodations for stran- Igers are adapted to make such a sojourn pleasant. The historic and jscenic beauties are not concentrated on a few points, but extend through- )ut the country, affording rare opportunities for journeys whose general course may be replete witli interest. The peculiar charms of the Mari- time Provinces are their history during tlie Acadian era and their noble :oast scenery, — the former containing some of tlie most romantic episodes n the annals of America, and the latter exhibiting a marvellous blending )f mountainous capes and picturesque islands with the blue northern sea. ind these two traits are intertwined tliroughout, for tiiere is scarce a )romontory that has not ruins or legends of French fortresses, scarce a jay tliat has not heard the roaring broadsides of British frigates. The remarkable ethnological phenomena here presented are also cal- dated to awaken interest even in the lightest minds. The American tour- 8t, accustomed to the homogeneousness of the cities and rural communi- [es of the Republic, may here see extensive districts inhabited by French- lien or by Scottish Highlanders, preserving their national languages, cus- >nis, and amusements unaffected by the presence and pressure of British Ifluence and power. Of such are the districts of Clare and Madawaska id the entire island of Cape Breton. All these phases of provincial life and history aff'ord subjects for study amusement to the traveller, and may serve to niake a summer voyage )th interesting and profitable. [Travelling has been greatly facilitated, withjn a few years, by the es- blisliment of railways and steamship routes throughout the Provinces, roni the analyses of these lines, given in the following pages, the tourist INTRODUCTION. n days. 1 2 1 li 1 2 4 3 1 3 will b© al)lo to compute the ecst of his trip, both in money and in time. Tho following tour would includo u glimpst! at the chief iittraetions of the country, and will serve to convey an idea of the time retpiisite : — Boston to St. John St. John St. Jolin to Annapolis and iliilifiix .... Halifax Halifax to Sydney The JJras d'Or Lakes Port llawkesbury to IMctou, Charlottetown, and Shediac Shediac to Quebec (by steamer) Quebec Quebec to Boston Failures to connect 21 days. To this circular tour several side-trips may ha added, at the discretion of tho traveller. The most desirable among these are tlie routes to Pas- samaquoddy Bay, the St. John lliver, the Basin of Minas (to Parrsboro'), from Halifax to Chester and JNIalione Bay, Whycocomagh, or Louisbourg (in Cape Breton), and the Sagiicnay Hiver. It may be advisable to go to Quebec by the Intercolonial Kaihvay, taking a night and a day. If the tourist wishes to sojourn lor sevcrul days or weeks in one itlace, the most eligible points for Nuch :i visit, outside of St. John and Halifax, are Frcdericton, St. Andrews, (Jrand INIanan, (Jrand lails, or Dalljousie, in New Briuiswick ; Annapolis, Woltville, Parrsboro', or Chester, in Nova Scotia; Baddeek, in Cai)e Breton; and Chariottetown, in Prince Edward Island. At each of these villages are small but comfoi table inns, and the surrounding scenery is attractive. II. Newfoundland and Labrador. Extended descriptions of these remote northern coasts have been given in the following pages for the use of the increasing number of travellers who yearly pass thitherward. The nsarine scenery of Newfoundland is *'ie grandest on the North Atlantic coast, and here are all the varied phe- noniena of the northern seas, — icebergs, the aurora borealis, the herds of seals, the desolate and lofty shores, and the vast fishing-tleets from which France and the United States draw their best seamen. English and American yachtsmen grow more familiar every year with tiiese coasts, and it is becoming more common for gentlemen of our Eastern cities to embark on tishing-schooners and make the voyage to Labrador or the Banks. The tourist can also reach the remotest settlements on the Labrador INTRODUCTION. n time. i of tliu ays. (( <( <( (( (( (< (( lays. liscrction L's to Pas- trrsboro'), ouisbourg le to gu to one v^'^-ce* I Halifax, )all»ousie, , ill Nova c Kdwarcl lis, and the been given ■ travellers midland is varied pbc- ;- le herds of ■ «■' Voni which *"■ nglish and ese coasts, stern cities adov or the / .'1 te Labrador coast by the HteainHhip Hues from Flalif.ix to St. .loliii's, N. F., and thetiee to liatthi llurl)()r. This route takes a long jxTJod of time, though the exi)eh.'»e is comparatively light ; and the accominoihitions on tlie Hteam- shipH be_\ontl St. Jolin's are (piite inferior. A shorttM- eircuhir tour may be made by taking tlm steamer from Halifax to St. .lohn's, and at St. John's embarking on tli<^ Western ()ut|to!tH steamship, which coasts along the entire S. shore of the island, ami runs down to Sydney, C. H., once a month. From Sydney the tourist can return to Halifax (or St. Jolin, N. |{.) by way of the, Ibas d'Or Lakes. The Western Outports steamship also visits the (|uaint French color.y at St. Pierre ami Miipielon fortnightly, and the traveller (^in stop oil thlication. The tether he shall MARITIME-PROVINCES HANDBOOK. NEW BRUNSWICK. The Province of New Brunswick is situated nearly in the centre of the North Temperate Zone, and is bounded by Maine and Quebec on the W., Quebec and the Bay of Chaleur on the N., the Gulf of St Lawrence and the Northumberland Strait on the K., and Nova Scotia and the Bay of Fundy on the S. It is 140 M. long from E. to W., and 190 M. from N. to S., and contains 27,105 square miles. The direct coast-line (exclusive of indentations) is 410 M., which is nearly equally divided between the S. and E. shores, and is broken by many fine harbors. The Buy of Fundy on the S., and the Bay of Chaleur on the N., are of great size and com- mercial importance, — the former being 140 M. long by 30-50 M. wide; the latter being 90 M. long by 10—25 M. wide. The fisheries in the great bays and in the Gulf are of immense value, employing many thousand men, and attracting large American fleets. They have furnished suste- nance to the people of the maritime counties, and have been the occasion of developing a race of skilful mariners. During the past 50 years 6,000 vessels have been built in this Province, valued at nearly $80,000,000. The lumber business is conducted on a vast scale on all the rivers, and the product amounts to several million dollars a year. The country is generally level, and is crossed by low ridges in the N. and W. There are numerous lakes, whose scenery is generally of a sombre and monotonous clkiracter. The interior is traversed by the rivers St. John, Restigouche, Miramichi, Petitcodiac, Nepisiguit, and Richibucto, which, with their numerous tributaries, afford extensive facilities for boat- navigation. The river-fisheries of New Brunswick are renowned for their variety and richness, and attract many American sportsmen. There are 14,000,000 acres of arable land in the Province, a great por- tion of which has not yet been brought into cultivation. The intervales I of the rivers contain 00,000 acres, and are very rich and prolific, being fertilized by annual inundations. The chief agricultural products are [wheat, buckwheat, barley, oats, potatoes, butter, and cheese ; the value of [the crops exceeding $5,000,000 a year. The climate is less inclement on the Bay of Fundy than farther inland. The mean temperature for the last ten years at St. John was, for the winter, Us^; spring, 37 i°; summer, 58°; autumn, 44§°. The thermoin« I fi if U NEW BRUNSWICK. eter ranges between —22' and 87° as the extremes marked during the past ten years. The present domain of New Brunswick was formerly occupied by two distinct nations of Indians. The Micmacs were an offshoot of the Alp:on- quin race, and inhal)ited all the sea-shore rojjions. They were pcwerful and hardy, and made darinf: boatmen and fishormen. The Milicetes were from the Huron nation, and inhabited the St. John valley and the inland forests, beinj; skilful in hnnMnjj; and all manner of woodcraft. They were less numerous and warlike than the Micmacs. Roth trihes had a simple and beautiful theology, to which was attached a multitude of quaint mythological legends. This region was included in the ancient domain of Acadie (or Acadia), which was granted to the Sieur De Monts by King Henri IV. of France, in 1603. De Monts explored the St. .John River, and planted an ephemeral colony on the St. Croix, in 1604. From 1635 until 1645 the St. .John River was the scene of the feudal wars between La Tour and Charnisay. Oliver Cromwell sent an expedition in 1654, which occupied the country; but it was restored to France by Charles II. in 1670. After the war of 1689- 97, this region was again confirmed to France, ard its W. boundary was located at the St. George River, W. of Penobscot Bay. Meantime the shores of the Bay of Chaleur and the Gulf of St. Lawrence had been set- tled by the French, between 1639 and 1672. The New-Knglanders invaded the Province in 1703, and in 1713 Acadia was ceded to England. The French limited the cession to Nova Scotia, and fortified the line of the Mlssiguash River, to protect the domains to the N. In 1755 a naval expedition from Boston took these forts, and also the post at St. John; and in 1758 the whole Province was occupied by Anglo-American troops. In 1763 it wr surrendered to England bv the Treatv of Versailles. The Americans made several attacks on northern Acadia during the Revolutionary War, but were prevented from holding the coimtry by the British fleets at Halifax. At the close of the war many thousands of American Loyalists retired from the United States to this and the adjoin- ing countries. In 1784 New Brunswick was organized as a Province, having been previously dependent on Nova Scotia; and in 1788 the capi- tal was established at Fredericton. Immigration from Great Britain now commenced, and the forests began to give way before the lumbermen. In 1839 the Province called out its militia on the occasion of the boundary disputes with Maine; and in 1861 it was occupied with British troops on accoimt of the possibility of a war with the United States about the Trent affair. In 1865 Now Brunswick refused, by a p pular vote, to enter the Dominion of Canada, but it accepted the plan the next year, and became a part of the Dominion in 1867. The population of New Brunswick was 74,176 in 1824, 154,000 in 1810, 280,777 in 1871, 32I,2o3 in 1881, and 321,294 in 189L nfirked during the ly occupied by two Oioot of tlie Aljron- hey Avere pcwerful Tlie Milicetes were Iley niul the inland Icnift. They were trilies had a simple luhitude of quaint Lcadie (or Acadin), end IV. of France, anted an ephemeral ) the St. John River Charnisay. Oliver 1 the country; but T the war of 1689- « W. boundary was ly. Meantime the rence had been set- I*^np:landers invaded Eneland. fortified the line of J. In 1755 a naval post at St. John; n- American troops. Versailles. Acadia durincj the the country by the lany thousands of lis and the adjoin- jed as a Province, 1 in 17F8 the capi- Great Britain now e lumbermen. In of the boundary British troops on s about the Trent vote, to enter the year, and became 104,000 in 1810, 6 n. I). I). I). I). D. I). 11. 12. i;i. 14. I.-.. 111. 17. IS. ll». 2si)ital I>. City Hospital F. Wijffriiis Asyhiiii 1^. Cemetery K. Kind's Stiuare K. QlU'en'^^ S(iiiaru I). Catliedral K. 2, Trinity Ciiurcli I>. St. Paul's K. St. John's K. St. Andrew's \). Intercolonial and C. V. H. Station . 1). Canadian I'acific K. II C. 6 20. Cantilever R. R. Bridge . . . A. 1 ^ ;«». Marnh Bridjre F. 2 B .'}1. Suspension Bridge A. 1 •U Reed's Point C 4 iW. Negrotown Point A. ."> WEST SIDE. .'M. City Hall B. 2 .15. Market B. .'! ;!(). Martollo Tower A. .'! ;i7. Lunatic AsvUmi A. 1 ;X Church of th" A.ssuniption . A. .'? a). St. Jade's A. 4 4(). St. George'a A. 2 IIOTl 2.1. Dnfferin . 24. Clifton . . 2.5. Royal . . . 2(1. New Victoria 27. Victoria . . 2.S. Clarendon . I J 1 STC ' ' 1 1 t '■t ■■ i- i ?i; 1^ ^H ouse ^381 *»/nt ji'^M ght t. Jl ary I " 1^1 Ho ^^^^1 •r of PJ day. ^^1 ndon "^^^1 Air [uent 1'u''9^^l loncei i-n^H (treet. l^'9 Ke: ■w-*™ It., m- , ^ lear tl SIM Cat ^B dditif J^^^H •nger « Str« '9 niiius fl vhere ncerts are given in the hall of the Mechanics' Institute, near the head of Qermain Itreet. Keatllnu- Rooms. — Tlie Young Men's (^hrioro (92 .M ), conn»-cti':g for all points in Maine, aud for Boston ind New York, and also for (Quebec, Motjtr.al, and the West. It also connects up Ihe St. -.John Valley, by way of Frodericton, with the St. -Lawrence Valley; and lown the St.-(?roix Valley, with St. Stephen and St Andrews. The Shore Line runs to St. Stephen direct. The Intercolonial Railway runs E. to Shediac, Truro, md Halifax (276 M.), and to Quebec. Steamships* — The International Steamship Com- Ipany despit'ii their sei worthy vessels from St. .Toliti In- Kosfon. tout'liiiig at Kast- Iport and Portland, antl connecting wiMi sNv.niers fd,- *t Andrews, St. Stephen, |Calais,and (Irand Manin. In .Ian. nn -steamers leave (he foot of Princess St every lo nuniite-' until 9.30 P.M. Fare, 3c.; for one-horse carriages, 9c.; for two horse carriages, 15 c. The ('lifUm makes cripj vroni Indiautowu to Mu8s liiuu, Clliuu, uud Uaujpton, up tue bvuutilul Keuucbuca. Is ^.retentious triuniplial arch, erected in honor of Prince Artiiur's visit, and afterwards utili/ed for sustaining the fire-alarm bell. The City Market House is on the E., and exhibits the products of this region on well-arranged stalls. A few steps N. W. of the Square (on Charlotte St.) is the handsome building of the Young Men's Christian Association, containing a large hall, gyumasium, parlors, and cla^s-rooms. The library and reading-room are open daily (except Sunday) from 9 A. M. to 10 P. M., and strangers are welcomed. The building cost $38,000, and mi ST. JOHN. Route 1. 17 ew Brunswick and the cciipies a commanding n its favorable situation J led "the Liverpool ol ilt is composed of soli( )ense ; and the plan of tti gular squares. The cit 1 Empire, and aspires t )itants in the South Ei; ,nd the West Side (Cari. arleton House. Amon, leyan "Cathedral" anc te of the Old Kirk, aiu ned-pflass windows; th. lain Street ; and the In- east of Montreal. Tin ^ohn River, belonj^s to s at engineering work the le Intercolonial station, le high tides of the Baj in River. It is usual! j with wharves and mills. [ several weekly papers, citv, and runs from the k\\ the principal shop.'J uare, and along Pr'incf t the foot of the street ts and produce-vessels provisions for the u«o the most part, left to )oint landed the weary bunded the city of St. ;| occupied in its lower m this point the street and several banks and jstrict. King Square I'ith trees, and udonie\al Arms from Old State House, Boston, brought by the Loyal iats iu 178ii. Tuis lerable buihling was destroyed in tlie great hre of lb77. Not far from Inity is the Masonic Temple, a large and costly new edifice of brick. le i)ublis]iing house of the McMillans is on an adjacent street, with its iiiting-office and book-store. W ascending tiie third street (Queen) to the 1., Queen Square is reached, [a well-kept park surrounded witli dwelling-houses. A short dis- Ice to the E., on St. James St., is the Wiggins Male Orphan Institu- )i, a building in Gothic architecture, of red and gray sandstone. fs the most elegant and symmetrical structure of its size in the Prov- }, and cost over .^100,000, but is only adecpiate to the accommodation JO ori)hans. The Marine Hospital is in this vicinity. short walk out Sydney St. or Caermarthen St. leads to the Military mnds, on the extreme S. point of the i)eninsula. Here is a spacious rade-ground, which is now used only by the cricket and base-ball clubs, th a drill-shed which will hold 2,000 soldiers. These grounds were [nierly occupied by largo detachnionts from the British army, whose [cers wore a desired acquisition to the society of the city, while the mili- baiids amused the people by concerts on Queen Square. ^riuc.i' WiUinm Street runs S. fi'om Miirket Square to Heed's Point, and ^ne of the chief thoroughfares of the city, containing several hotels and je of the largest sho]>s. Where it crf)sses Princess St., the Carleton ry is seen to the r. The * Post-Office is an elegant building of gray dstone, at the corner of Princess St. ; opposite wliicli is the new City ?/, a h.uidsonie stone building. The Savings Bank, the Bank of New |niswick, and other institutions, are luxuriously domiciled in this vi- Ity. The great lire of 1S77, which destroyed several millions' worth property in St. Jolin, swept this district clean, and many elenys contented himself witli the ocean-fisheries from Canso and Cape Breton. izilly.'ioon died, leaving his domain to his kinsman Charles de Menou,Sieurd"Aul- \y Charnisiiy, who was also related to Cardinal Richelieu. D'Aulnr.y and La Tour ^an to quarrel about the boundaries of their jurisdictions, and the former em- jyed a powerful intluen i; at the Court of France toaidhiscau.se. Louis XIII. iially ordered him to cai ry La Tour to France, in chains, ami open war ensuej ^twcen these patrici.m adventurers. La Tour had erecte I a fort at St. John in 1, whence he carried on a lucrative fur-trade with the Indians. In 1643 this jnghold was attacked by D'Aulnay with six vessels, but La Tour escaped on the ip CUmrnt, leaving his garrison to hold the works. He entered Boston Harbor Ith 140 Huguenots of La Rochelle, and sought aid from Massachusetts agiinst the Itholic forces which were besieging him. The austere Puritans referred to the |ble to see if they could find any precedent for such action, but found no certain jpon.se from that oracle. "On the one hand, it was siiid that the speech of the i'ophet to Jehoshaphat, in 2d Chronicles xix. 2, and the portion of Solomon's jverbs contained in chap, xxvi, 17th verse, not only discharged them from any ^ligation, but actually forbade them to assist La Tour; while, on the other hand, fwas;igreed that it was as lawful for them to give him succor as it was for Joshua aid the Gibeonites against the rest of the Canaanites, or for .lehosh:iphat to ai I >horam iigainst Moab, in which expedition Elishawas present, and did not reprove ie King of Judah." But when they had assured thenwelvos th;it it would bo llow.ible f r them to aid the distressed nobleman, they sent such a fleet that D'Aul- ^y's forces were quickly scattered, and the siege was raided. Two years later, lile La Tour was absent, D'Aulnay ag.iiu attacked tlie fort, but was handsomely )ul>ed (with a Io,ss of 33 men) by the little garrison, he.ide I by Madame L.i Tour. Jme months later he returned, and opened a regular siege on the landward ."ide It! fort was in Carleton, near Navy Islind; After three diys of fighting a tre«u-h- )us Swiss sentry admitteti the enemy into the works ; and even then Miulame La >ur led her troops so g.illantly that the victor g.ive her her own terms. These I i 1 i t i \ j 1 " • » ! 20 7?()«/tf I. ST. .lOHN. tcrmB, however, worn »hnmrnilly vfolntod, Rtid tho (pirrlson wns nmHriwrtMl boforo her fiuM*. ThnH> weeks aflerwnni, slie tiled of a lu'okeii heiirt La Ttiur ennie back i to St. John fonie \enrs l!it«>r, and found thnt D'Aulniiy wii.>» dead. whenMipon lui' effivtuftllv ri'oaptun'd his old domain l»v niarrvlii)^ the widow (»t the eont|uerorl iUVi'S) b'Anlnav died in ItiiM), li;ivlii»r spent S(KI,(MH) livres in Aeadia, and hnilt fi i fortn»wes, 2 seininarles, and several elinrelies. lie had several sons, all of whoni entered the Kn»neh army, and were slain in the service. In Ktt^t) a sharp enjra^rement took plaiM> in St. .lolm hartior, between tho Kn'neli fVifr<'«te Union and two Kn^lish vessels. The former had enten-d the harbor beariii)^ the Chevalier de Villebon, anil was taken at a disadvanta^je. After a severe eann«in- a«le, the Union hanled down lier eolors. Villebon soon descended the river with a jvirty of Indians and attjtcked the ships, but without success. In If'.Stt?, wliile tlu>: Chevalier de Villebon m»verned Acadia from the upjii-r St .John and hurled de ntnietive Indian hands upon New Kuj^laud, Massachusetts sent tlip'e men-of-war tir bhM'knde the mouth of the river and cut oil his supplies. They w«'re soon attac kcd by 1>" Iberville's French frigates, ami made a ih'sperate resi,^tanee. lint the I\'fK<- /»or/, 24, wa« unable lo wiMistand tlie heavy lire of the I'lofom/, nuil soon lay di,>i- nia.sted and helpless. After her surrender the olhi-r American vessels escaped under eover of a thick fo^. Anew lle«>l from Hoslon soon afterwards overhauled the Kreneh IVigates, ernisinj? betwe«'n Moinit Desert and St. .fohn, and captured the fV()/oMf/, with >i. de Villebon, the (lovernor of Aeadia, on board In ITdl the fort of St. John wa.s dismantled by llrouillan ; but in 17(»H it was rebuilt, and had 4 bastions and 24 pitves of artillery In July, 174S>, 11 H. M. sloop-of-war Mhnny entered the harbor and drove away the Kn'ueh troops, lowering; also the stJindard «>f France The frigates Iloiinil and York had a skinnish with tlu> French here in ITfA*, and wen' onh'red out of tlic port by Hoishcbcrt, the eonunandant of the fort. In IT.V), four llritish war-vessel.i entered the harb(»r, and the Ficnch ir-Mrrison demolished the fort, blew »ip the niiu;- a7.hu>, :ind i"etreat<'d into the country. !»• ITAS Fort ha Tour wa.s still narri.«-()n< (1 by French soldiers, but, af>er a shoi t sit ■ by an Anglo-American force, the poM was snrnMidert'd at discretion. Two year?. later, the jdace was visit«'d by Jaunv Simonds, an atlventurous New-Fuglander, who was, ho\>ever, .-oon driven away 1 y the Indians, " Catholics and allies of France.'' In ITtVl he returned with a partv of M.is.saeh\isetts tisliennen, and settled on the j)resent site of tlie city, erecting dc lensive wtirks oti Portland Heights, under the name of Fort Howe In ITT.O a nav.ii expedition of Americmis from Machias entered the harbor and destnncd the oM FriMich fin'titications (then tailed Ft>rt FretU>rick), cttmpleting their work by plun- dering ami btunbarding the village. May IS, ITSJi, a Hritisli ih'ct airlvetl ni tlif port bringing ri,(HH) of the self-styletl ''liiitetl Kuipire littuilists," Americans wlm >ver»» loyal tt) King (icoige ami cttultl nt>t or woultl not reu ain in the new Keiaibiic of the United States. From this tlay may be dated the growth of the rily of St. John. New Brunswick was set olT fi'om Nova Scotia as a .separate I'rtivince the next year, ami in ITSti its first Lt gi.-lative Assembly waj* lonvcnetl here. In 17S" Trinity Ch»M-ch was foundt il ; in 17SS harbor-lights were establisheil on Partritlgc Island, ami in \~\^^ the Hot/al linzitti was started in 1H.'}7 one third of the com- mercial i>tirtit»n of the city was lun-netl, invtihinga lt)>s of .t'2r)0,0(M). During the boundary tlispute with the State of Maine (1S!]!>- 42) the citizens were all ennillcil and drilietl in militjiry exerci.'^es, in preparatit)n for a war on the borders. Larue ft>rtunes were made by the nien-hants timing the Crinican war, when the llritish timbt>r-niarkct, which hatl dciu'inlctl largely on the I'altic ports ft)r its supply, w.is by their clt>s«ng ftir. etl tti tlraw lii>avil\ t)n the Ameritan l*n)vinces. The last hi."- torie event at St. Jtdin was its mcuivation, in the winter of IStU. by several of tlie chtiicest n'giments of the llritish army, among which were the (Jreiindier (inards, the SetUch Fusiliers, antl other >litf ror/'s. Atter the jieaceful solution of the Tiiut afTinr this ft>rmitlable garri.^on was removed, and the city huf since been left to prt>sper in the arts ol peace anil industry. " Heiv is jticturestjue St. .Itihn, with its couple of centuries of history and tradi- tion, its commerces, its enterpri.rtheast, with its no doubt charming society ami soMd English culture ; antl the summer tourist, in an idle mood regarding it lor u jay, pays it is naught." (Waunkus Badr/trk.) St. John aspires to he tho winter-port of tlie Dominion, and the Intei'co- j ionial, Canadian Pacilie, and Grand Trnnk lines are arranging great ter- minal facilities here. Halifax is an energetic rival, although much farther from the Upper Provinces. ST. JOHN. Hnnie 1. 21 t lia Tr.ur vnww buck lilnw ot t.h« onii(j»U'r<"- in Acatliii, luxl Ixiill Ti J «>rn'i soiiH, all of whom tr, iM'twccn tho Kn'ticli ^ 'nil till' li.'irlitir limriii'^' Alter a H«>v«'n> oaiiimii- Hcciidcil »Ih> rlvor witli >| .lolin iind hurlctl nn'ti-of-war tu 'li<\v wt'toKr.on att.M< kcil (^tnncc. Hnt tli« Am/- i/();»f/, and soon lay dis- iciU-an v«'ss('ls csraiMMl «l't«>r\vards ovrrhanicil fort, bh'w up Mic iiiHU- iiur wa.>< ftill narrisoiu i| .nu'rioan ton*', tin' ii«i>t »• w«.x visited l)y .lanits 'r, soon driven away 1 y > returned with a partv of the city, rrectinj? (!<' IIowo In 1775 a navtil and destroy «'d the oM nn their work hy iihm- lish lleet anived m tlic alists," AniericanH wlin lin in the new Ueiiul)lio owth i»f the city of St. J Irate Province tho next livened here. In 17^' tahlished on PartridK*' |7 one third of the coin- 1.1 250,01)0. During tlic Itizens were all enrolltd ]ni the borders. Larp' war, when the liritisli firts fni J ha.« t*inco been left to Is of history and trail!- tid throniih the settlo- Icharniinjj society ami I mood regarding it for )n, and the Interco- irrangitig preat tor- Ihough much farther gt- John. "Totho wliulii jflvoonr bnniipri | Hcnr lidinewitnl iiKiiin! ' Cried the Lord iif Aeiidiii. Crlfd CliiirIrM «if liwlicniin ; From tlie prow of IiIh nliiillop lie \in/v{\, iiH 111" Nini, From ltd lic'il in tlic occMn, Htreiimcd tip the .St. .loliii. Oer the biiio wcntern wiitero 'I'lmt Hhiilloii hiid piiHteil, Where tlie mutfl of I'liioliHCot <'IuiiK (liiinp on her miiHt. St. Savior liiid looked On the litTftie huiI, An the Romf" '••' the Huguenot Itimc on the gule. The pnle.KlioKtlv fntherH lUnienihcred her well, Ami hinl cursed her while pooding, With taper nnd l-cll, But (lie men of Monhegnn, Of I'liplMtH uhborii'd, Iliid welcomed iind fett(it«U The heretic Lord. They had londed liift Hhnllop With dini-iish iiiid hull, With HtorcH for lii« liirder, And steel for his wiill. Penie(iiiid, from lur biiHtioiis And turrets of stone, Had welcenu'd liis coming Willi hiuiner iind jfiin- And the prayers of the eldern Iliid followed his wuv, Ah homeward he glided Down Pentecost May. O, well sped Lii Tour ! For, in iieril and puin, IliH lady kept wntch For hiH coming again. O'er the Isle of the Pheiisnnt The niorning Biin Hhoiie, On tlie plane-trees which Hlmded Tlje shores of St. .loliii. "Now why from von Imttleincnts Speiks not my fovc? Why waves there no banner My fortress above?" Dark and wild, from liis deck St. Kstieiinc gazed about, On fire-wasted dwellings, And silent redoubt ; From the low shattered walls Which the flame had o'crrun. There floated no lianner, There thundered no gun. But beneath the low arch Of its doorway there stood A pale priept of Rome, In liis clouk and his hood. With the bound of a lion La Tour sprang to liiiid, On the throat of the Papist lie fustcned his liand. •' Speak, son of the Woman Of scarlet and sin I What wolf has been prowling My castle within ? ' From the grasp of the soldier The Jesuit broke, Half in scorn, half in sorrow, He imlled us he ipoke : 1617. '•No wolf, Lord of Fstlennf, lias riiviigcd tliv hull, Uiitthv ri'd-liandcd rival, Witli lire, Ktci'l. iiiid balU On Mil trraiifl of mercy I liltliiTWiird Clime, While I lie walls of thv cnstlo Yet spoiiteil with llame. " I'eiitagocts iliirk vesseln Were moored in the bay, (trim Nell lions, roaring Aloml for their prey t" " lint what of my ladv?" Cried Charles of Kslienne. "On the shot-crumbled turret Thy lady was seen : " Half veilerl In the smoke-cloud, ller hand Knisped thy peiin«>n, Wliile her d;irk tresses swayed In the hot breath of cannon 1 lint wo(; to the heretic, livermore woe ! When the son of the church And the (tross is his foet "In the track of the shell, In the path oftlK! ball, Pentugoet swept over The breach of the wall! K.'eel to steel, gun to giin, One moment, — and then Alone storxl the victor. Alone with his men I " Of its sturdy defenders, 'I'liy l.idy nionc Saw the crosH-bhizoned bonnet' Float over St. .lolui." " Let the dastard look to it I" Cried fiery Kstieniie, "Were I> Anlnuy King Louis, I d free her again I" " Alas for thy lady ! No hervi(;(! from thee Is needed by her Whom the Lord bath set free ; Nine days, in stern silence, Iler thruldom she bore. But the tenth morning came. And Death opened her do,0{K). It is iy¥) ft. long and contains 670 M. of wire, supported ou 4 slender but solid towers. Over the head of tlie bri plants are found. The Mahogany 1 Soad affords u fine drive along the Bay shore, with n succession of broad marine views. It is gained by crossing the Suspen- sion Bridge and passing the Insane Asylum. About 4 M. from the city i^ the Four-Mile House, a favorite objective point for drives. The road is often followed as far as Spruce Lake, a fine sheet of water 6 M. long, anil situated about 7 M. from St. John. Perch are found here in great num- bers, but the facilities for fishing are not good. The water supply of the suburb of Carleton is drawn from this lake. ^ Mahogany, a popular adaptation of the Indian word ilanawagonish, applied to the neighboring bay. CAMPOBELLO. Route 3. 25 wagonish, applied to tlie St. John to Eastport and St. Stephen. — Fassamaquoddy Bay. (Srcpn!/r?,OI>.} The commodious vessels of the Internationul Steaiuship ('unipiiny leave thoReed'fl *oiiit WljJirf, at .^t. John, every Monday, Weduehday, and Friday, at 7.2;' A.M., and eafli Eastport (ti I M. di-tant) before noon. A conneetifin ivS made th< n; witli smaller steamboat, wUiili a.^cends l*as.- frontier at Calais, and ninninj^ around Ihroiiuli the coast )unties. It is not yet ])erfect in route and ejjnipment, and is content with mning in a very leisurely way down this pictiir('.s(|ue and thinly settled )ast. The loealitie.s which it appr aches are more particularly described \n pages 31, '62, '6'i, 34, and 35 of this book. Stations. — St John to Spruce Lake, 7 M ; Musquash, f); Laneaster, 16; ?preaux. 24; New River, 2'J : Pennlield, 33; ^^t. tieorge, 47; Bouny River, 58; Oyer's, 62 ; Oak Bay, 07 ; St. Stephen, 82. I After leavicg St. John, the steamer runs S. W. into the Bay of Fundy, id .soon passes Split Rock, and stretches across to Point Lcpreau. The jculiarities of the coast, which is always visible (in clear weathor) on the ., are spoken of in Route o, and are thus epitomized by Mr. Warner : :Ai)rettybay now and then, a rocky cove with scant folia_e:e, a light- louse, a rude cabin, a level land, monotonous and without noble forests, — lis was New Brunswick as we coasted along it under the most favorable ircumstances." After passing the iron-bouod islets called the Wolves (where the Neto tiKjlnnd was wrecked in 1872), the steamer runs in towards the West sles, who.se knob-like hills rise boldly from the blue waters. Sometimes le meets, in these outer passages, great fleets of fishing-boats, either Irifting over schools of fish, or, with their white and red sails stretched, (ursuing their prey. If sucli a meeting occurs during one of the heavy )gs which so often visit this coast, a wonderfully weird eflcct is caused the sudden emergence and disappearance of the boats in the dense rhite clouds Soon after passing the White HcTrse islet, thi- steamer enters the Ea.stem fassage, and runs to the S. W. into Friar's Road. On the r. is Deer sle, a rugged island, 7 M. long by 3 M. wide, with a i)oor .soil and no 3od harbors. There are about 1,(500 inhabitants on this island, and it is irrounded by an archipelago of isolated rocky peaks. The .«;hores attain elevation of 300 ft., and from some of the higher hills are gained beau- Iful panoramic views of the Fassamaquoddy Bay, on one side, and the lay of Fundy, on the other. 2 ■fi i i n 1 I :i I I 26 Routf S. EASTPORT. On the other side are tlic grandly picturosciuo hcndlundsof Cainpobcllo, the island which lias recently become so well knowi) as an American Hum- mer-resort, parliciilarly affected by the best people of IJoston and (Cam- bridge. A more thorough account of this locality is found on page 30 a, hereinafter. The earliest sottlonu'nt on tlie Bny wa.^ pstnMishnl nlmut 1770, hy the Cnmpo- bello (.'oil puny, ami was I()(>at( il at Ilarliordt' liUl«>, nn (.'mii|i(i1:« ilo It-luti*! It wax nuDU'd Wnriinptoii, Imt tlio WfUhjiool M'ttU'iiu'iit has Uul^r Kincc KurjiasMMl it. Tlu> irilund was lor Komc tiiiu- tlio proprrty of (lajit. Owni, of tlu' UomiI Ni!V.\, to whom the residents paid toiiant^' «lucs. At ccrtaiii sta>;t's of tiio tide, Ku.'( port ran only ho approavhed hy pahsin^ around Canipohollo, concern iiijf whwh Mr. U'arnir lu- dulgos ill tlic following pleasantry : " The po.s.session hy tlie Ilrilish of (he i.-land of (jumpohello is an insutrerahle nienaee and iniiKrtinence. 1 writ*' with a full knowl- edge of what war i,-^. We ought to Instantly di.-lodge the llritish from ('ani])oliello. It entirely shuts up mid tonnnands our hiM-lior, — one of our chief IOa.'tern har- bors and war stations, where wo kwj) a Hag and cannon and some soldiers, and where the customs oflicers look out for sninggling There is no way to get into (lur own harbor, except in favorable t ircnirstanccs of the tide, withont lu'gging the courtesy of a passage through Ihitifh wc.ters. Why is England i»eniiitted to ttretch along down our coast in this stntggiing iin.l iiKiui.^itive manner? She niighl aInioFt as well own Long Island. It wii.s iiniio,«sili|(> to prevent our clucks niar.tling with shame aa wc thought of this, and saw ouix Ives, free Anicriciin ( itiztiis, landloeked by alien soil in our own harbor \\c ought to liitve war, if wur i; rcressiiry to pos- sess Campobello and Deer Islands, or el.M' we ought to give the Krili.h Euslpurt. I am not surt; but the latter would be the better course." Eastport {The (inodhj, a new ;iiidcomfort;i!ile hotel, with ().') chambers) is an American bordcT-town on the con«t of Maine, and has ;{,7f{8 in habitants and 8 churches. It is built on the slope of a hill at the E. end of Moose Island, in Passamaqnoddy Bay, and is engaged in the fish- eries and the coasting-trade. Over the village are the ramparts of Fort Sullivan, a post of the United States, commanding the harbor with its artillery. Eastport is much visited in summer for the sake of the sidt- water fishing and the tmiqnc marine scenery in the vicinity, and has sev- eral reputable boardinrr-honses. It is ccnmccted with the mainland by a bridge, over which lies the road to the Indinn village. Eastport is the most convenient point from which to reach Campobello, Grand Manan (see Route 4), and the adjacent ishinds. A steam-ferry runs hence in 3 M. to Lubeo ( Lubec House, Cobscook Hotel), a pictures(]ue marine village to- wards Quoddy Head, with advantages for summer residents. This pleasant little place is decaying slowly, having lost over 400 inhabitants between 1860 and 1870. The present population is a little over 2,000. Lubec i>; 1 M. farther E. than Eastport, and is therefore the easternmost town of the United States. The purple cliffs of Grand Manan are seen from Quoddy Head. I ill KASTl'OUT. noutc3. 27 iiulsof Canipobello, s an Anioricftii 8um- if Boston and (.'am- ound on pafj^u 30 a, t 1770, by the ("nmpo- )i(>l)t ilo l^lllllll It Vinn iiicf mr|iusM'(| It. The ' Uojiiil Nnv.v, t<) whom iidr, Ka.<-l|K>i't can only wWu h Mr. Marnir in- ISridKh of th«< i.^lund of rtritr uilh a lull knowl- ritish friin\ (\ini|)o1)i>llo. our I'hiof Eustcrii har- uud Konio Koldiors, and i no way to net into our !, without ln'frjring tlie nd iK'rniittt'd to^tretcli uT ? She nujrlit alnioFt r cli(tk.>f n:aiitliup witlj fin ( itii^cns, landlocked wur i; necessary to pos- ■he I'riti.h Eastport. I In 1^)84 the I'asMainaq noddy island.'* wen- granted hy ''lo King of France to Jean Sarreau de St Aiildn. In tiu- Niiinnicr of 17'*4 the few hrencli HctUern about Piuwa- n)a<(U(»ddy Hay wen" phindcKvl by an expedition und«'r(!ol (Miurch, ronxiMtinK of <(U<( Ma.x.-,'e tin- Minas settlements. Thev visited .Moo.m' Island and tin- adjacent main, and carried olfall the >ef tiers as prisoners. Kighteen yearH later a Boston ship was captured by the Indians among thes«' isliinds*1iiit was retaken by it.s crew when a fair wind arose In 1711 Massac hu.;out and dyspepsia .eeeivc imieh benefit here (very likely from the enforeed abstiiifuee from rieli food). Tlie b'ooks and the many fresh- water ponds alVord fair troutinj^ and bird-sliootiii;^^, arul a few deer and rabbits are found in the woods. There are no bears nor reptiles on the island. There is a small inn at (irand Harbor, but the sojourner will prefer to }fet board in some of the private liouses. Neat rooms and simple fare may there be obt'ained for $4-7 a week. " As we advanced, IManan gradually rose above the waves and ehanped its aspect, tho flat-topped purple wall ' ling transmuted into brown, rufrped, pirpendieular cliffs, crowned with dark fjre< i foliage. Passing, as we diil, elo.n- in by the extreme northern point, we were impi-essed hy its beauty and grandeur, which far exceeds even that of the elilfs at Mount Desert. " As a place of summer resort, Orand Manan is In some respects unequalled. At certain aea.>«ons the fog is abundant, yet that can be endured. Here the opportuni- ties for recreation an; ui)e,(ualled, and all persons fond of grand sea-shore views may indulge tlieir ttuste witlioiit limit. The people are invariably kind and trust- worthy, and American manners and customs prevail to sucli an extent that travel- lers at once feel at home.' (U.: Oosr.v.) The island of Grand Manan is 22 M. long and 3-6 M. ^vide, and lies in the mouth of tho Hay of Fundy, whose i)o\vorfiil tides swoop impetuously by its shores. It has about 2,700 inhabitants, who dwell along the road which connects the liarbors on the K. shore, and arc famous for their dar- ir.g and expertness in the lishories. Thoy have 10 schools, 8 churches (5 Frec-Will Baptist, and 2 Church of England); wlnle the advantages of free-trade, insigniticant taxation, govornmcnt-built roads, and complete self-logislation, give reason for the apostrophe, " Hajipy Mananites, w'lo, free from grinding taxation, now rove out from rock-bound cove.s, and quarry at will in the silvery mines of the sea! " The harbors on the E. shore atford safe shelter for small vessels, and are connected with the great clill's on the \V. by narrow roads through the woods. The fisheries of cod, herring, and haddock are very extensive in this vicinity, and form the chief resource of the people, who are distinguished for the quaint sim- plicity which usmilly pertains to small ajul Insulated maritime communi- ties. Grand Manan has been for many years a favorite resort for Amer- ican marine painters, who find excellent studies in its picturesque clitr:^ and billowy seas. It was visited by (Munnplain in 1605, but was occupied onlv bv the Indians for 180 vears after, (.'ol. Allan, the American com- munder in E. Maine during the Hevolution, held the islaud with his Indiau ! \ GRAND MA NAN. Ruute 4. 29 st Isles are seen id combinations. to the r., are tlie Navy Island, the 10 pages 33-36. )Out 7 M. from the It is vnsWy reached iniuunication. The J it is or of Seal Coi'e, beyond which the road lies nearer to the sea, afibrding (ine marine views on the J., including the Wood Islands and the Gannet iJock Lighthouse, 9- 10 M. at sea. 4 M. beyond Seal Cove the road reaches Broad Core, whence a path leads across the downs for al)o\it 2 M. to the high and ocean- viewing clifls of S. W. Head. Amf)ng the rugged and surf-beaten rocks of this bold promontory is one which is called the Southern Cross. About the S. W. Head is a favorite resort and breeding-place of the gulls, whose nests are made in the grass. A forest-path leads N. to Bradford's Cove, on the W. shore, a wide bight of the sea in which the ship Mavourneen was wrecked. The North Shore. The road from Grand Harbor to Whale Cove is 7-8 M. long, and is firm and v.ell-made. 14 IM. N. of (jlrand Harbor, Wood- sward's C.)ve is passed, with its neat hamlet, 4 M. beyond which is Flagg's Cove. Spraijiie's Core is a pretty fishing-hamlet on the S. side of Swal- jlow-Tail Head, where "everything appears to have been arranged for [artistic efiect. The old boats, the tund)le-down storehouses, the pic- turesque costimies, the breaking surf, and all the miscellaneous para- jphernalia of such a jjlace, set olV as they }«re by the noble background [of richly-colored clitl's, produce nn eO'ect that i^ as rare as beautiful." VSuudhno-Tail Head is a fan-shaped peninsula, surrounded by wave-worn [clitl's, and swept by gales from every quarter. On its outer jmint is a [lighthouse which holds a fixed light (visible fur 17 M ) 148 ft. above Ithe sea. Whah Cove is on the N. E. shore, and is bordered by a shingle-beach )n which are found bits of porphyry, agate, jasper, and othei- minerals. f' Here the view is surprisingly fine, the entire shore being encircles-lazuli. It is added that Commander de Razilli broke off a piece, which he sent to France, and Sieur Deny s, who had seen it, sa^s that it was valued at ten crowns an ounce." " But, interesting as are all parts of this picturesque island, the climax of solitary wildness and grandeur is to be Ibund only in the 'Great (or Gull) Cliffs,' at Southern Head. Landing from the Kastport stenmer, either at Flagg's or at Woodward's Cove, let us charter an open vehicle and ride down the island. The smooth brown roatl skirts along the E. shore for the most part, showing us in succession the haif-dozen peaceful fishing-hamlets which contain its entire population, with their seven neat churclies and their remarkably liandsome and coumiodious schoolhouses. Afcer ii hrs. delightful drive, we arrive at ' Hdrrey's,' a very small but most home- like cottage inn. Alighting here, let us take the picturesque path that leads to the ' Great (or Gull) Cliffs.' For tlio first ^ M. the path takes us across elevated piiflturH-land, showing us th" open sen upon three sides. For another quarter it plunges into a dense forest, and pre-Jently descends to the edge of the water, which it reaches at a little stony level known as ' Southern Head beach.' Crossing tliis, and skirting the S. W. coast, we soon commence rising with the rising shore, until at the end of a short mile we emerge from the shrubbery to find ourselves on the top of ^ Hay Point,' gaziug perpendicularly down at the sea, which dashes, at the CAMPOBELLO. Route 78. 30 a N. Eel Brook and eighbor, and be- loly cliffs at Eel md nearly all on ,'e). Beyond this )'s Head, so called n of massive cliffs, oken purple wall, leir greatest eieva- arine scenery. A d's Cove to the ro- sy Cove, so named pt. Kidd's buried idges of the Passa- liore fishery of por- hirling currents of e as at Grand Manan, r>ni« s absorbing. The rest. The lo"" eastern :urcpque sights. In a i^iht sky, the shingle iitinually enforce the piist cape, cove, and between him and his s the very throne of le woods which beau- ave pasFcd away from Menune, which F3rvos k. ahnost always cov- ommander de Razilli who had seen it, sa J 8 the climax of aolitary 1) Cliffs,' at Southern at Woodward's Cove, smooth brown road ;e88ion the half-dozen ith their seven neat Jioolhouses. After 3 all but most honn- path that leads to es us across elevated r another quarter it 2 of the water, which iuch.' Crossing this, le rising shore, until kid ourselves on the which dashes, at the 6ase of th« cliff over which we lean, some 250 feet below ? A few rods further on, knd we come to the new Southern Head Lighthouse. From hence for a mile fur- Iher we pace along the deeply indented edge of this dizzy height, as upon a lolty Bsplnnade, enjoying its solitary grandeur, enhanced by the wild screams of hun- ireds of circling sea gulls, uutil at last we arrive opposite the • Old Maid.' " A stanch steamboat runs between Eastport and Grand Manan, con- jcctin'T with the International steamships from Boston at Eastport, and brossing to the island in 2 hrs. There, is a i^ood pier at Elagg's Cove [North Head). Two small but comfortable hotels have been erected near . rth Head (tbe Marble-Ridge House); and Grand Manan has latterly trown rapidly in public favor. A submarine cal^ie runs hence to luistport. There are 5 telegraph-offices on the island. There are also several livery [tables, and good roads. Complete immunity from hay-fever is enjoyed \ere. Myriads of gulls and stormy petrels breed on the adjacent islets. 78. Campobello. Small steamboats run from Eastport to Campobello hourly. The O^vcn is an a}sthetic summer-hotel, composed of the old Owen mansion, ievoted to office, billiard-room kitchen, and dining-rotmi, and the main building, huge modern erection, containing parlors and chambers, and connected with the Jd nmnsioii by a long open corridor. The surrounding grounds are pleasantly laid it, and contain the old porter's lodge, sun-dial, Lovers' Lane, and the Admiral's iwthorn hedges. The Tyn-y-Coedcl (House in the Wood) is another large mmer-hotel, per- hining to the Campoltello Company, and devoted nninly to the commodation of lilies, being quieter and more secluded than the Owen. Campobello is an island 8 M. by 3 in area, lying off the Bay of Fundy, Lnd pertaining to the Province of New Brunswick. It has 1,1G() inhabi- mts, most of whom live in two villages, — W(khpo<>l, on a pretty harboi the N., and WilsoJi's Beach, a populous fishing-settlement on the S. lore, settled by squatters, in defiance of the Owens, who frequently turned their houses nnd schooners, but were finally obliged to alUnv them stay. The fine old Owen roads across the island have been extended ky new highways ojiened by the Campobello Comp my, and afford beauti- il drives across the breezy uplands, through leagues of silent evergreen )rests, and out on sea-beaten i^romontories. There are a few profitable irnis on the island, and minerals are found in the hills and glens; but the lief source of income is the fishing business. The Episcopal Church is ultra-Anglican, with its vicar praying )r the Queen and all the Royal Family, with the iistud English intonation; great chancel-carpet, embroidered by the ladies of New Brunswick, with je three feathers of the Prince of Wales; and its rich altar-cloths, pre- ented by Sister Portia. Admiral Owen's granddaughter. The only other lurch on the island is Baptist. The chief local holidays are the Queen's lirtlulay and Dominion Day (July 1). Glen Severn (the ancient Herrinfj Cove) is a lovely cove on the outer ■iv- I ( I 'I I i ";l m 30 b Route 78. CAMPOBELLO. jliore, with brill iant-huod pebbles, craggy headlands, and a contiguous lake of fresh water. Frinr's Head, within ] J ^I. of the Owen, is a rocky pillar in the sea, off cliffs 1-4G ft. high, and badly battered by artillery. Eastern Head, Harbor de Lute, the lightlioiises at the ends of the island, and otheT interesting points, are visited b}' sunimer-sojourners. The west- ern side of Canipobello fronts on the beauties of I'assaniaquoddy Bay, around which appear Lubee, Kastport, and other white villages, Avith the purple hills of New Brunswick in the distance. Camp.jD«*llo, the ancient Passamat/uodd t/ fslnvd, was granted by the British Crown to Adiiiiral William Fit?,williani Owen in 1767. and tint gentleman and his heirs, of a noble naval family, occupied the domain for more than a hundred years. The Admiral built a quarter deck over the rocks, on which he used to promenade in full uniform, lie was buried bv candle ligiit, in the churchyard of the little Episcop:il church, where his descend, ts have since followed h i. There are num- berless quaint legends of the old regime here ; of Sir Robert : eel's visit, and the advent of Britisii frigates; of mysterious wrecks, pirates, apparititns, and other marvels. A^ter Admiral Owen died, the estate fell to his son-in-l;iw, Captain Kobinson, of the Royal Navy, who thereupon assumed the Owen name and settled upon the i.sland There was groat excitement here in IS'IO, when many armed Irish patriots came to Eastport. apparently with a design of invading Campoliello and twisting the tail of the British lion. The island was nearly deserted by its inhabitant^! ; British frig- ates and American cutfcu'S cruised in the adjicent waters; St. Andrews and St. Stephen were garrisoncnl by British troops; and General Meade occupied Eastport witli a (ictachmcnt of United States rejrulars. The list of t!ie Owens moved to Eng- land, lirid of tl e, monotonous life of the old manor-house, and in 1880 Campobelln was purchased by a syndi<'ate of Boston and New York capi'^alists, to be made into a summer-resort. Besides the gre;it hotels, many summer-cottages and villas are being erected here by well-known families from Boston, Cambridge, and other cities. The new development of this remote island as a smnmer-resort has been' rapid and secure, and already Camiobello bids fair to become a formidable rival of Mount Desert, in a fashionable point of view, although its scenery i is in almost o.very way inferior. The novel and original architecture and equipments of the great hotels, and the attractiveness of their grounds and surroundings combine with the insular and provincial (juaintnesses of tlic islanders to make a sojourn here very interesting. The Tyn-y-Mais (" House in the Field") is the latest built of the groat hotels of Canipobello. 6. St. John to St. Andrews and St. Stephen. — Passama- quoddy Bay. The steamer leaves the Reed's Point Wharf every Thursday and Saturday, at ^ A. W , and reaches St. Stephen before dark She returns from St. Stephen ev< n Monday and Kriduy morning. Fares, St. .John to St. George, $1.76, to St. An- drews,')?? 1.50 ; to St. Stephen, $ 176. This is not u permanent route, and is lialilej to change or discontinuance. j liiil tiidns from St. .John, Fredericton, and all points east, west, and north uj St. Audrew»-»fid St. Stephen. BAY OF FUNDY. lioute 5. 31 test built of the groat phen. — Passama- cast, west, and north u [Afler leaving the harbor of St. John the steamer runs S. W. by W. 9^ ., passing the openings of Manawagonish Bay and Pisarinco Cove. The iurso is laid well out in the Bay of Fundy, which '* wears a beautiful )ect in fine summer weather, — a soft chalky hue quite different from [e stern blue of the sea on the Atlantic shores, and somewhat approach- the summer tints of the channel on the coast of England." Beyond |e point of Split Rock, Musquash I/arbo)' is seen opening to the N. It is safe and beautiful haven, 2 M. long and very deep, at whose head is the jttv Episcopal village of Musquash (Musquash Hotel), with several lum- Ir-mills. About two centuries ago a French war-vessel was driven into is harbor and destroyed by a British cruiser. From Split Rock the irse is W. ^ S. for 11^ M. to Point Lepreau, passing the openings of lance Harbor and Dipper Harbor, in which are obscure marine hamlets, [the latter, many years ago, the frigate Plumper was wrecked, with a fge amount of specie on board. The harbor is now visited mostly by )ster-fishers. Point Lepreau is a bold and tide-swept promontory, on lich are two fixed lights, visible for 18 and 20 M. at sea. Phe traveller will doubtless be amazed at the rudeness and sterility of these flrowo- shores. " Two very different impressions in regard to the Province of New inswick will be produced on the mind of the stranger, according as he contents iself with visiting the towns and inspecting the lands which lie along ihe sea- ird, or ascends its rivers, or penetrates by its numerous roads into the interior of [more central iind northern counties. In the former case he will feel like the Iveller who entt^rs Sweden by the harbors of Stockholm and Qottenburg, or who ^s among the rocks on tlie western coast of Norway. The naked cliffs or shelving »res of granite or other hardened roclis, and the unvarying pine forests, awaken 'lis mind ideas of liopeless desolation, and puverty and barreimess appear neces- ily to dwell within the iron-bound shores But on the other hand, if the inger penetrate beyond the Atlantic shores of the Province and travel through int\.;shington. This n- markable medallion has been jtluced in tlie Natural History Museum at St. .Idliii For nearly 40 years the Indians and lumbermen near the lake have told marvellmi' stories of a marine prodigy called " the Monster of Utopia," which dwells in tin' fair forest-loch. His last appearance wa« in 18(i7, when several persons about 1 1 shores claimed to have seen furious disturbances of the waters, and to have caiiuli momentary glimpses of an animal 10 ft. thick and ."0 ft long. Tiic lake abounds iy silvery-gniy trout, and its tributary streams contain many brook-trout and smelt. Among the hills along the valley of the Magaguadavie Itiver are the favorite liaint- of large numbers of Virginian deer. Moo e were formerly aV)undant in this nri and it is but a fi>w years since over 400 were killed in one season, for the sake of t! » : hides. This noble game animal has been nearly e.Kterminated by the merciless -»: tiers, and will soon i)ecome extinct in this district. The MaKHKiiHtlavic Klver (an Indian name meaning "The River of tli Hills") rises in a chain of lakes over 80 M. N \V., within ii short portage ot t; Sheogomoc River, a tribntary of the upper St. .!< hn. Traversing the great Lints of Magaguadavie it descends through iiu uninhabited and barren highland riuiml tersely described by an early pionocr as " a .'craggly hole " Mu<'h of its lower valli)! is a wide intervale, which is supjtostd to have been an anc lent lake-bottom. 11 river is followed closely by a rugged road, which leads to the remote Harvc,\ iiml Magaguadavie settlements. After leaving the port of St. George, the steamer runs S. W. acros Passamaquoddy Bay, with the West Isles and the heights of Deer Islaii| on the S., and other bold hummocks on either side. On the N. are m Ihet lu- ST. ANDREWS. IloiUe 5. 33 ants devoted to the .4 M. from the ship- iif^aguadavic, at the asm 30 ft. wide, aiul- di a water-power uii- orf^e, clinsi'ig to \\w imbcr and granite anv V marked evidences of ' ugh which the watirs y «*onie convulsion <>f" under, giving vent to rict lias hoconie coif ,coh)r which receives a I colunnis and moiiu- superior to the Scolds on (Jranite"), a"<1 '^ lliore Line Kailw:i,v m localitv. ildcrncps to thv N.,renil(r the neighborhood of t^t . oix, present the travellti ind Bheltered depression is about 1 M. from m adavic lliver 3 M. "'"'Vt bordered l»y mngnitictui {T parties, pportsmcn. im tlie remains of an an< ini, K'dawa.v. Here also u;h lii;nia'i liead, in etyli' v t(. U.isliington. This i. (irv Museum at St. .Itilui lake luive told marvel I'-U' ia," whirh dwells in tin- several jiersons about tl liters, and to have eaujrlij |)ng. Tlie lake abouutis \i l)nu)k-trout and snu'lt ■(•rare the favorite haimtl abundant in this nrioii,| >ason, for the sake of tluiif ;ated by the merciless ntj Ling "The River of tli| liin a short portage of tl!| rravcrsiug the great l/iv| Id barren highland n ti'i J \ Mucliof its lower valus Indent lake-bottom. Tli| |() the r«'mote Ilarvex aii(| ler runs S. W. acrojj [leights of Deer Islan On the N. arc tl; tuaries of the Digdeguash and Bocabec Rivers, and the massive ridge the ( !hamcoolc Mt. It. Andrews, tlu^ capital of Charlotte funty, is finely situated on a peninsula at the mouth of the St. ('roix 'cr, whicli is here .3 M. wide. It has ah(Mit 1,8(H) inhabitants, aiul a few |ict old streets, surrounded by a broad belt of farujs. The town was Indcd about a ccnfiiry ago, and soon accjuircd consider.ibli! commercial jortance, aiul had large fleets in its harlior, loading with timl)er for Bat Britain and the West Indi:'s. This era of prosperity was ended by rise of the town of St. Stephen and by the operation of tlu; Ileciprocity ity, and for niany years St. Andrews has been retrograding, until now wharves are deserted and dilapidated, and the houses seem anti(iuated neglected. Ii has recently attracted summer visitors, on account of pleasant sccMu^ry and the facilities for boating and Hshing. ['he new Hotel Algonquin is one of \\w. handsomest summer-resorts on Atlantic coasf, ami occupies high ground rear St. Andn^ws, overlook- a vast expanse of l*assamaquoddy Hay. It is visited by many distiii- Ished Americans and (Canadians ever}' season. Fogs are very re; summer nights are cool; and the environs ara lovely. The town laid out in square blocks, and the streets are wide and kept in good ler. The roads an^ excellent for driving, and from many points give feturesipu! views. The public buildings are the court-house, jail, rec- olHce, and marine ho.spital; and there are a number of neat private lidenccs. Of churches it has Presbyterian, Methodist, itist, Konum Catholic, and (!hurch of England. The " Argyll," a fc structure, with rooms for 200 guests, was opened in 3881 as a mier-hotel. It is pleasantly located on elevated ground, and con- lient to the beaches, where the facilities for .sea-bathing arc unrivalled. trains run to and from St. Andrews, connectinf( trains for AVoodstock, Iloulton, St. .fohn, Bangor, Portland, and Bostou. imboiits run daily ]>etween St. Andrcw.s, Calais, Eastport, and (/ampobello, liectiug at Eastport with steamers for St. John, Grand Manan, Portland, and ton. The Chamcook Mt. is about -4 M. N. of St. Andrew, and its base is :hed by a good road (visitors can also go by railway to the foot of the luntain). It is often ascended by ])arties for the sake of the view, ich includes "the lovely Passamaquoddy Hay, with its little islands outline recalling recollectioMs of the Gulf of Naples as seen from the unit of Vesuvius, whilst the scenery toward the X. is hilly, with [p troughs containing natural tarns, where trout are plentiful." Ls the steamer swings out into the river, the little ship-building village 'lobbinston is seen, ou the American shore. On the r. the bold bluffs of J I! Mi I » ttillli 34 Route 5. ST. CROIX RIVER. Chamcook Mt. are passed, and occasional farm-houses are seen along the| shores. 6-6 M. above St. Andrews, the steamer passes on the E. side ofj Doucet*s Island, on which a lighthouse has been erected by the Ameri- can government. W. of the island is the vilhige of Red Bedch, with itsj plaster-mills, and on the opposite shore is the farming settlement of Bay} Shore. In the year 1G04 Henri IV. of France granted a large part of America to Pierre diij Gua^t, Sieur de Monts, and Oovcrnor of Pons. Tliis tnict extended from I'hila-I delphia to Quebec, and was named Araiiie, which is saiil to be derived from a local Indian word. IK; Monts sailed from Havre in April, with a njotle.v company of iiii-| pressed vagabonds, gentl<>nien-adventurers, and Huguenot and Catholic clcrgyniciij the latter of whom (luairelled all the way over. After exploring parts of Novjl Scotia and the Bay of Fundy. the voyagers a.scended the I'ast-amaquoddy Bay uii(l| the river to 8t. Croix Isle, when; it was determined to found a settlement. Bat- teries were erected at each end, joined by palisades, within which were the hoii(ecial disconunodities in this island : want of wood (for that whiij was in the said isle was spent in buildings), lack of fresh water, and the contimiii watch made by night, fearing some surprise from the savages that had lodged thcii^i selves at the foot of the said island, or some other enemy. For the malediction an rage of nuiny Christians is such, that one must take liecd of them mucii more tlia^ of infidels." (Lkscarbot's NouveUe France.) In 1783 the river St. Croix was designated as the E. boundary of Maine^but tb Americans claimed that the true St. Croix was the streauj called the MugaguadavkJ It then becanie inijwrtant to find traces of De Monts's settlement of 18() years pn J vious, as that would locate the true St. Croix River. 8o, after long searching anion | the bushes and jungle, the boundary -commissioners succeeded in finding renuiaii; of the ancient French occupation on Neutral (Doucet's) Island, and thus fixed tL line. About 10 M. above St. Andrews the river deflects to the W., and to tl N. is seen the deej) and spacious * Oak Bay, surrounded by bold hills, iiii^ forming a beautiful and picturesque prospect. It is supposed that tl:j| French explorers named the St. Croix River from the resemblance of i:; waters at this point to a cross, — the upright arm being formed by ti^ river to the S. and Oak Bay to the N., while the horizontal arm is outlim; by the river to the W. and a cove and creek on the E. At the head of tti bay is the populous farming-village of Oak Bay, with three churches. Rounding on the 1. the bold bluff called Devil's Head (from one Duvi^J who formerly lived there), the course is laid to the N. VV., in a narrc^ ST. STEPHEN. Rnnle 5. 35 scs are seen along the| asses on tlic E. side of erected by the Ameri- :>f Htd Beach, with itsj iiing settlement of Bayl rt of America to Pierre (lu! met extended from Pliilal to be derived from a loi iil 1 a motlcv company of im- >t and CiitJiolic cU-rgynui, r explorini? parts of Ndv.i . l»assama(iuoddy Bay mil found a settlement. 15;it- lun wliich were the houm 'Impel, and the barracks of ^^ intense cold, and the ra\ 8. 35 out of 79 men died lip arrived from France, ir Croix is to be found out tf !S and great bays to go h} inc miglit ever pierce so fir 'Ut above the others, on tin li down, there is but a sharp the main land are fair and , grass Now let us pre- )yage into these part><, witl ere to seek out his seat, am [lone, had no need to sojouri ent things being done, aiii r, then they were forced t 10. During which time or nt of wood (for that whi< h water, and the contim rages that had lodged then, /. For the malediction m d of them much more tliat^ boundary of Maine/ but tl m called the MngaguadavH : settlement of 180 years prr. after long searching anioi: cceeded in finding remiian; Island, and thus fixed tt ^cts to the W., and to tl,^ lunded by bold hills, rtii| It Is supposed that til the resemblance of Irm being formed by t[| liorizontal arm is outliw Tie E. At the head of tl hvith three churches. Head (from one Duv8| the N. W., in a narw| lUS annel, between sterile shores. 2-3 M. above is the antiquated marine iiilt't called The Ltdqe (I. bank), most of whose inhabitants are depend- t on the sea for their livinj;. 4 M. above, the steamer reaches St. Stephen. St. Stephen (Queen Ilotd) is an active and cnterprisinf? provincial town, the headof navif^ation on the St. Croix River, opposite the American city Calais, and the W. terminus of the Grand Southern Railway (see paffe ) from St. John (see also paf?e 30 b). The population is 3,000, with 6 urches 1 newspaper, and 2 banks. Tlie business of St. Stephen is t)stlv connected with the nuinufacturc and shipment of lumber. The ills of the river at this point give a valuable water-power, which will bablv be devoted to general manufacturing purposes after the lumber Ipplv begins to fail. A covered bridje connects St. Stephen with Calais ht American House ; St. Croix Exchange), a small city of the State of ine, with 6,000 inhabitants, 7 churches, 2 weekly papers, and 2 banks. Ithough under different flags, and separated by lines of customs-officers, Ste()hen and Calais form practically but one community, with identi- [l pursuits and interests. Their citizens have always lived in perfect ternity, and tbrmed and kept an agreement by which the}' abstained m hostilities during the War of 1812. At that time the authorities also tiiiined the restless spirits from the back country from acts of violence |ross the borders. 2-3 M. above is another Canado-American town, th large lumber-mills at the falls, which is divided by the river into lltown-St. Stephen and Milltowii-Calais. Travellers who cross tlie river her at Calais or Milltown will have their baggage looked into by the Btoms-officers, squads of whom are stationed at the ends of the bridges. A Railway runs N. from St. Stephen to Iloulton and idstock (sfe Route 6). Calais is connected with the .Schoodic Lakes by railway, with Eastport by stjiges. The U. S. Mail-stage runs daily to Bangor, 95 M. W. s, S7.50), p.ia.sing through a wide tract of unoccupied wilderness. The Bteam< It leaves Calais or St. Stephen daily in summer, and semi weekly in winter, for Itport, where it connects witli the International steamships for Portland and iton (see also Route 3, and New Emiland). Fares, Calais to Portland, \LQ \ to Boston, by water, $5.60 ; to Boston, by rail from Portland, $ 7. The Schoodic Lakes. railway runs 21 M. N. W. from Calais to Lew ey's Island (2 inns), [Princeton, whence the touri>t may enter the lovely and picturesque [loodic Lakes. The steamer Gipsey carries visitors 12 M. up the lake to tnd Lake Stream, one of the most famous fishing-grounds in America. trout in Lewey's Lake have been nearly exterminated by the voracious }, but the upper waters are more carefully guarded, and contain perch, lerel, land-locked salmon, lake-trout, and fine speckled-trout. The md Lake Stream is 3-4 M. long, and connects the Grand and Big les with its rapid waters, in which are found many of the famous sil- salmon-trout The urban parties who visit these forest-lakes usually >ge Indian guides to do the heavy work of portages and camp-build- :)n MM ':-\i e «'nter«>d ; and itortagcs conduct thence to the niivigal.|,| trihutaries of the Machias and Penobscot Kivers. " Ono of fh<» most pu-tiu-csijuo portions of tlic> western Pci. iodic n-j^ion is Or;iii,H Lake. Tliis noble slun-t of water !•< broken iwn« nn tuko. Jogging tlu' ncrvrs and IVusting the vyva." Gknio C. Scott. II St Andrews and St Stephen to Woodstock and Houlton. DiHtailcen. — St. Andrews to (Mianirook, 5 M. ; llartlett's. 11; Waweijr, i;! Roix Koud,lf); Hewitt's, !!• ; Kollin}; Dam. kO ; Dumbarton, 24; Watt .lunclinn 27 (St. Stephen to Waft .Mnietiou, lit); hawrenre, 21 > : Darber Dam. 34 ; M(A(liiiii. Junetion, 48: Deer Lake. GK ; Canterburv. (if) ; IVl River, 75; Wickliam, 80 ; Drlucd Junction, 90 (lloul on, J»8); llodgdon, 98 ; Woodstock, 101. The country traversed by this liru> is one of th(> uiost irredeemably dc- olate regions in North Amer'ca. The view from the car-windows pm seuts a coutinna'i .-^uc. cssiou of dead and dying forests, clearings bristliiil with stumis, and funereal clusters of blasted and fire-scorched tree-trunkJ The traces of human habitation, which at wide intervals are seen in tlii| gloomy lar.d, are cabins of logs, -where poverty and toil seem the fittc' occtipants; and Nature has withheld the hills and lakes ^vith which siis rudely adorns other wildernesses. The sanguine Dr. Gesner wrote a vn; ume inviting immigration to New Brunswick, and describing its doniiiiiK in hinguage which reaches the outer verge of complaisant oj)timism ; In; in presence of the lands between the upper St. .Tohn and St. Ste|)hen lii pen lost its hyperbolical fervor. He says: ''Excepting the intervale the stream, it is necessary to speak with circumspection in regard to tlil genornl quality of the lands. Many tracts are fit for little else but ji;! I turage." This district is occuj)ied, for the most part, by the remains i;! sofY-wood forest?, whose soils are always inferior to those of the liiiiii wood districts. For a short distance beyond St. Andrews the railway lies near tli| shores of Passamaquoddy Bay, aflbrding pleasant views to the r. T the great mass of Chamcook Mt. is passed, with its abrupt sides ;n;| rounded summit. Waweig is between Bonaparte Lake and Oak l);i| (see page 34). About 7 M. beyond, the line approaches the Dlgdegiiasl ST. JOHN TO HANCJOll. Huiiti 37 rhcro is ft largo villa-r ; liiiko. A two honi ' lutifiil fori'st-son, Avit! lit \v!\t(M-s. Tlu! rrv 'i rcr still lurk along tlu • and yet nioro rcni' t, lonro to the navigiililc I Sc'i. io»llo n'fjiloti is (JtMiii ) by islets, mill surromnli l wood, \vlnl8t its bottciin i- th drift, mo spread far ml ,nkc, I'B." Uknio C. Scott. stock and Houlton. artlott's. 11 ; Wawcijr, l^i artnn, 24 ; Watt .)ur.(ii"ii llarluT Diiin. 34 ; Mt Ailini, ■r, 75 ; Wickliain, 80 ; I). Im. 101. I' most irroilooinably dt- m the oar-windows i>iv )iTsts, clearings bristlni. ro-scorclied trec-trunk- intcrvals are seen in tlii und toil seem the fiti" id lakes with which >L Dr. Gesner wrote a vn d describing its doniair liplaisant oi)tiinism •, In; [ohn and St. Stephen lii. Iceptiug the intervales (/ spection in regard to tli| it for little else but pn part, by the remains d )r to those of the liiirJ| le railway lies near tli'j It views to the r. Tlu| jith its abrupt sides ai| Irte Lake and Oak l):ii Iroaches the DigdegKiiil Ivcr, which it follows to its «oiirco. At Wntt Junction the St. Stc]>lien inch Kuilway comes in on the 1., and the train pHsHc« on to McAdinn Inction, wliere it intersects the (Jonadian Tacific Railway (page 38). lere is a restaurant at this station, ami the passtajger will have time to le wliile the train is waiting for the urilrul of the trains from I'angor from St. John. The foH'st is again entered, and the train passes on for 1(J M. until it jiehes the lumber-station at Deer Lake. The next station ia CanUV' ry, near the beautiful Skiff liake. Kuiiuing N. W. for 10 M., the Eel ver is croshsd, and at J)i'(H'r Junction the jiassengvr changers for VVood- «k. A train runs thence 8 M. N.W. to Houlton {Siull lloim), the shire- n\ of Aroostook ('(Uinty, Maine, with 4,000 inhabitants, 2 papers, opera lusc, electric lights, water-works, and a noble view from tin;
5|K;rcaux. Eimiskillen, .3i) ; lloyt, .'{!); Blis.svilU;, 42 ; Krt'dericton . I miction, 4f'» ; Traryi Cork, 01; Harvey, <»«} ; Maf^a^^uadavic , 70: Me Adam .lunetioii H.') ; St. ('rolx, Vanceboro", 1)2; .laekson IJrook, 112; Danfortli, 117; Haiierolt, 120; Kinj?- In, l.'J'.>; Mattawiniikea}^, 147; Wiim, 100 ; liiiieohi Centre, 1;V.> ; l^iiicobi, lOl , meld, 170; rassaduinkea4 to 10 M. in width. Their navigation is very intricate, by reason of the multitude of islets and islands, narrow passages, coves, and deep inlets, which diversity of land and water affords beautiful combinations of scenery. The islands are covered with cedar, hemlock, and birch trees; and the bold highlands which 8hadow the lakes are also well wooded. One of the most remarkable features of the scenery is the abundance of bowlders and ledges of fine white granite, either seen through the transparent waters or lining the shore like massive masonry. "Uni- versal gloom and stillness reign over these lakes and the forests around them." Beyond Vanceboro' the train passes through an almost unbroken wilder- ness for 65 M., during the last 16 M. following the course of the Matta- III ST. JOHN RIVER. Route 8. 89 ramkeag River. At Mattawamkeag the Canadian Pacific Railway goes ^fi to Moosehead Lake and Montreal. Tlie Maine Central Railway fol- )ws the reuobscot River, traversing a RUCce.«sion of Ihinly populated nnbering towns. Forty-five miUs below Mattawamkeag, the Penobscot crossed, and the train reaches Oldtown (two inns), a place of about i 000 inhabitants, largely engaged in the lumber business. The traveller luuld notice here the immense and costly booms and mills, one of which tlie largest in the world and has 100 saws at work cutting out planks. On an island just above Oldtown is the home of the Tamitiue Indiuni!, formerly If iiKwt powerful and warlike ot the Northern trihes. They were at first well-dis- DSfd towards the colonists, but after a series of wrongs and insults the> took up mis in 1078, and intiicted such terrible damage on the settlements that Maiue be- luie tributary to them by the I'eace of (;as and 10. These vessels an; comfortably tted up for passengers, in the manner of the smaller boats on the ilud^'Oi) River pinner is served on boird ; ai.d Fredericton is reached late in the afternoon. On reune.«day and haturday travellers can ascend the river to Ilampst'^ad, 33 M., and »turn to St. John the same day on the boat bound down, which leaves FrederictOA 8 X. M. The scenery of the St. John River is pretty, and has a pleasing pastoral quiet- ess. The elements of the landscapes are simple ; the settlements are few and mil, and at no time will the traveller find his attention violently drawn to any ssing object. There are beautiful views on the Long Reach, at Beileisle Bay, id during the approach to Fredericton, but the prevalent character of the cenery is that of quiet and restful rural lands, by which it is pleasant to drift on balmy summer-day. Certain provincial writers have done a mischief to the St. Polin by bestowing upon it too extrav.igant praise, thereby preparing a disappoint- lent for such as believed their report. One calls it " the Rhine of America," and lother prefers it to the Hudson. This is wide exaggeration ; but if the traveller rould enjoy a tranquillizing and luxurious journey througi a pretty farming coun- ry, abounding in mild diversity ct scenery, he should devote a day to this river. Distances. — (The steamboat-landings bear the names of their owners, and the >l!o\ving itinerary bears reference rather to the villages on the shores than to the topping-places of the boats.) St. John ; Brunda'^c's Point, 10 M. ; Westfield, 17 ; jreenwich Hill, 19; Oak Point, 25; Long Reach, 26; Tennant's Cove (Beileisle |ay), 29; Wickham, 32; Hampstead, 33; Otnabog, 41; Qagetown, 50; Upper igetown, 58 ; Maugerville, 72 ; Oromocto, 75 ; Glaaier's, 81 ; Fredericton, 86. Fares. — St. John to Frederictou, $ 1. ; ! It' r 1 11 r 'j'nwvw 40 Route 8. KENNEBECASIS BAY. This river was called Looshtook (Long River) by the Etchemin Indians, and Ouansiouilie by the Micmacs. It is supiM)s«(i to havo been visited by De Monts, or other uxplorcrs at an «'»rly day, and in the coinniis.sion of the year 1598 to the Lieut -(iencral of Acadia it is called L« Riviere de In Grande Btiie. But no exam- ination \si\» made of the up|H'r waters until St. John's Day, 1*}()4, when the Frencli fle<*t under De Monts and I'outrincourt entered the jjreat river. In honor of the saint on whose fe-rnn, it was then entitled the St. John. After spending s<'veral weeks in a>:eending tiie stream and its connected waters, tlie discoverers sailiMl away to the south, bearinj; a jrood report of the chief river of Acadia. De Monts exp«'eted to find by this course' a near route to Tadousac, on the Saguenay, and theretbn; sailed up as far ius t\w depth of water would permit. " The extent of this river, the fisli with which it wits tilled, the grapes growing on its banks, and the beauty of its scenery, were all objects of wonder and admiration." At a substHjuent day the fierce struggles of the French seigneurs were waged on its shores, and the invading Heets of New England furrowed its tranquil waters. The St. John is the cliief river of the Maritime I*rovinces, and ia over 450 M. iu length, being navigable for steamers of 1,(XX) tons for 90 M., for light-draught | steamers 270 M. (with a break at the Grand Falls), and for canoes for nearly its i entire extent. It takes its rise in the gn^at Maine forest, near the sources of the] Penobscot and the (!haudi> re ; and froni the lake which heads its S. W Rranch the Indian voijnueurs carry tiieir canoes across the Mtgarmette Portage and launch | them in the Ohaudiere, on which they descend to Quebec. Flowing to the N. E. for over 150 M. through the >l|ii)i(> forest, it receives the Allagash, St Francis, and other large streams ; and from the mouth of the St. Francis nearly to the Gnmd Falls, a distance of 75 M., it forms the frotitier between the United States and Canada. It is the chief member in that gr<'at system of rivers and lakes which has won for New Brunswick the distinction of V)eing " the most finely watered country in the world."" At M»ulawii.ska tlie course changes from N. E to S. E, and tlie sparsely settled N. \V. counties of the I'rovince :ire traversed, with large tribut^iries coming in on either side. During the last 50 M. of its course it receives the waters of the great basins of the (trand and NVashademoak Lakes and tij" Belleisle and Kennebecasis Bays, which have a pandlel direction to th«! N. E.,and alford good facilities for inl;ind navigHtiy two mouths, — thrnnj;li the Kennelieay, — and that the breaking down 'd* the present channel through the lofty hills W of St. John is an event quit«' recent in geological history. The Indians still preserve a tradition that this barriei of hilbJ was once unbroken and served to divert the stream. LONG REACH. Route 8. 41 Itchemin Indians, and visited by De Monts, Df the year 1598 to the Riie. But no exain- U)()4, when the Frendi iver. In honor of the 1 entitled the St. John. ! connected waters, the ; of the chief river of ite to Tndousac, on the p would permit. " The prapes {frowinj? on its ider and admiration." ieur.>< were wajjed on its tranquil waters. ?s, and ia over 450 M. I M.jfor light-draught! r cano«« for nearly its ' lear the sources of the I eads its S. W Rranch te Portage and launch Flowing to the N. E. itgash, St Francis, and * nearly to the Onind he United States and rs and lakes which has liiicly watered country . E to S. E, and the , with large trihutiiries e it receives the waters and th" Helleisle and N. E.,aiid airord good [onnected with those (if h >\ill be mentioned iu a fine rctro.'«pect is ind graceful siispen- e ))luced. Kuniiiiig jfj^e with high and On the r. is Boards are quarries of lime- Grand Bay is en- N K. This nnbie e for large vessels nnoiid Hivors, and Iffw/, is T) M. long, The K, shore is fol- {aiiway. le St. ,lohn formerly V Marsh Valley, and freaking down of the went quite recent in this barrier of IMU On the banks of the placid Kennebecaais the ancient Micmac legends locate the lonie of the (Jreat Heaver, " feareil by beasts and men."' whom (liooscap finally )iniueroil and put to de.ith. In this vicinity dwelt tlu' two (Sr-at Brothers, Oloos- \i> and Malsunsis, of unknown orijrin and invincible power. tJlooscap knew that is Itrotlu^r was vulnerable only by tiie touch of a fern-root ; and he had told Mal- jiisis (falsely) that tlie stroke of an owl's featlier would kill iiini. It came to pass y.it Malsunsis dctenniiuMl to kill his brotlier ( .vhetlicr temp ed thus by Mik-o, the /luirrel, or by Quiih-bcet-e-sis, the son of the (Jreat IJeaver, or by his own evil ani- lirion) : wherefore with his arrow he shot Koo-koo-skoos, the Owl, and with one of iis feathers struik the sleeping Glooscap. Then he awoke, and n'proaehed Malsun- liut afterwards told him t lat a blow from the root of a pitie would kill him. fhen the traitorous man led his brother on a hunting excursion far into the forest, _d vhile he slept he .smote him with a pine-root. But the cautious (Jlooscap arose rnharmed, and drove Malsunsis forth into the forest; then sat down by the brook- |de and said to himself, " Naught but a Howcring riisli can kill me.''' Muscjuash, le Heaver, hidden among the sedge, hcanl tliese words and reported them to Mal- jnsis, who promised to do untt) him even a< he should ask. Therefore did Mus- Inash say, '* Give unto me wings like a pigeon." But the warrior answered, " Get tee hence, thou with a tail like a file ; what need liast thou of pigeon's wings f " id went on his way. Then tlu'i Beaver was angry, and went fortli unto the camp (liooscap, to whom he told what he htid done. And by rea.sou of the.se tiding.s, liooscap arose and took a root of fern and sought Malsunsis in the wid(>and gloomy Brest: and when he had found him he smote him so that he fell down dead. " And liooscap sang a .song over him and lamented.'' Now, therefon?, (iloo-^cap ruled all beasts and men. And there came unto him iree brotliers .seeking that h«i would give them great strength and long life and nich stjiture. Then asked he of them whether they wished the.se things that they liiglit benetit and coun.^el men and be glori<»us iu battle. But they sai(l, " No; wo eek ni>t the good-of men, nor care we for others."' Then he offered unto them suc- I'ss in battle, knowledge; and skill in disea.ses, or wi.>t. I'aul. Farther up is the insulated intervale of Gras.sy Island, ftunouf ■. ■I ii !!• il 42 Route 8. BELLEISLE BAY. for its rich hay, which may be seen in autumn stacked all along the shore. The steamer now passes through the contracted channel off Mistaken! Point, where the river is nearly closed by two narrow peninsulas whichj project towards each other from the opposite shores. Belleisle Bay turns to the N. E. just above Mistaken Point. The estuary IrI nearly hid(hMi by a low island and by a rounded promontory on ther., beyond which] the bay oxtonds to the N. E for 12 - 14 M. , with a unifonii width of 1 M. It is navi- g.vble for the larf^est vessels, and is bordered by wooded hills. On the S. shore nenrl the mouth is Kingston Creek, whi<-h leads S. in about 5 M. to Kiiiieston ^int and bold, and has many fine water views. A few miles E. of Kingston is the ren)arkable l:ik«'let called the Picktvaakeft, occu-j pying an extinct crater and surrounded by volcanic rocks. This district was origi- nally settled by American Loyalist*), and for many years Kingston was the capital of| Kings County. The village is most easily reached from Rothesay (see page 22). Tennanfs Cove is a small Baptist village at the N. of the entrance to the bay ;| whence a road leads in 5 M. to the hamlet of Helleisle Bay on the N. shore (nearly . oppcsite Long Point village) ; from which the bay road runs in 3-4 M. to the larger) Baptist settlement at Spragg's Point, whence much cord-wood is sent to J*t .lohn. 1 4 M. l)eyond is Springjiflc/ (small inn), the largest of the Belleisle villages, situated! near the head of the bay, and 7 M. from Norton, on the intercolonial Railway I (Route 16). At the head of the Long Reach a granite ridge turns the river to the N. and N. W. and narrows it for several miles. 4-6 M. above Belleisle Bay Spoon Island is passed, above which, on the r. bank, is the shipbuilding hamlet of Wickham. A short distance beyond, on the W. bank, is Ilamp- stead, with several mills and a granite-quarry. The shores of the river now become more low and level, and the fertile meadows of Long Island are coasted for nearly 6 M. This pretty island is dotted with ehn-trees, and contains two large ponds. On the mainland (W. shore), near its head, is the hamlet of Otnnbof/, at the mouth of a river whicli empties into a lake 3 M. long and 1-2 M. wide, connected with the St. John by a narrow passage. The boat next passes the Lower Musquash Island, containing a large pond, and hiding the outlet of the Wnshademoak Lake (see Route 9). *' This part of the Province, including the lands around the Grand I^nke and along the Washademoak, must become a very populous and rich country. A great propor- tion of the land is intervale or alluvial, and coal is found in great plenty, near the Grand Lake No part, of America can exhibit greater beauty or more luxuriant fertility than the lands on each side, and the islands that we pass in this distance." (McGregor's British America.) After passing the Upper Musciuash Island, the steauiboat rounds in at Gagetoum (2 inns), a village of 300 inhabitants, prettily situated on the W. bank of the river. It is the shire-town of Queen's County, and is the shipping- point for a broad tract of furniing-country. After leaving this point, the steamer passes between Grimross Neck (1.) and the level shores of Cam- bridge (r.), and runs by the mouth of the Jemseg Kiver. About the year l')40 the French seigneur erected at t'le mouth of the JemBcg a fbrt, CD whose ramparts were 12 iron guns and 6 " murtherers." It was prurided MAUGERVILLE. Route 8. 43 ith a court of guard , stone barracks and magaaines, a garden, and a chapel ' ' 6 paces juare with a bell weighing 18 pounds." In 1654 it was captured by an expedition *nt out by Oliver Cromwell ; but was yielded up by Sir Thomas Temple to the eigncur de Soulangcs et Marson in 1670. In 1674 it was taken and plundered by a Flemish corsair." The Seiguiory of .leniseg wiis granted by the French Orown to Lhe ancient Breton fsimily of Damour des ClialTour. In 1686 it was ot'cupied by the bijjnoriiil family, and in 1(598 there were i>0 per.«ona settled here under its auspices. In 1739 the lord.ship of this district was held by the Marquis de Vaudreuil, who had [l6 colonists in the domain of .lemseg. In 1692 it was made the capital of Acadia, inder the command of M. de Villebou ; and after the removal of the seat of govern- nent to Fort Nashwajik (Fredericton), the .Femsc'g fort suffer<>d the vicissitudes of Jritish attack, and was finally abandoned. About the year 1776, 600 Indian warriors ithered here, (b^signing to devastate the St. John valley, but were deterred by the Bsolute front made by the colonists from the Oromoc to fort, and were finally ap- eased and quieted by large presents. The Jemseg River is the outlet of Grand Lake (see Route 10). Beyond Ihls point the steamer runs N. W. by Grimross Island, and soon passes the latnlets of Canning (r.) and Upper Gagetown (1.). Above Manger's Island seen the tall spire of Barton church, and the boat calls at Sheffield^ the ;at of the Shellield Academy. ** The whole river-front of the parishes of Maugervillc, Sheffield, and Water- )rough,an extent of nearly 30 M., is a remarkably fine alluvial soil, exactly re- embiing that of BattersiNi fields and tiie Twickenham meadows, stretching from the iver generally about 2 M. This tract of intervale, ip.clndi.ig the three noble islands >pposite, is deserveclly called ti»e (Jarden of New Brunswick, and it is by far the Host considerable tract of alluvial soil, formed by fresh water, in the Province." Above Sheffield the steamer passes Middle Island, which is 3 M. long, ind produces much luiy, and calls at Maut/ennlle, a quiet lowland village 3f 300 inhabitants. On the oj)posite shore is Oroiiwcto (two inns), the capital of Sunbury County, a village of 400 inhabitants, engaged in ship- Ibuilding. It is at the mouth of the Oromocto River, which is navigable Ifor 22 M. The settlement of Maugerville was the first which was formed by the English on |the St. John River. It was established in 1763 by families from Massachu.-i;tU and Connecticut, and had over 100 families in 1775. In May, 1776, the inhabit^mts of Junbury County assembled at .Maugerville, and resolved that the colonial policy of the British Parliament was wrong, tiiat the United Provinces were justified in re- listing it, that the county should be attached to Massachusetts, and that men and aioney should be rai.sed for the American service : s<'iying also, " we are lleatly with )ur Lives and fortunes to Share with them the Event of the present Struggle for jiWrty, however (Jod In his Provid;*nce may order it." These resolutions were Rigiied by all but 12 of the people ; and Massachusetts soon sent them a quantity of inuuuiiition. At a later day Col. Eddy, with a detachment of Mass. troops, a.scended the St. John Kiver to Maugerville, where he met with a warm welcome and was [joined by nearly 50 men. OroiiuK'to was in early days a fivorite resort of the Indians, one of whose great cemeteries has re<'ently been found here U'hen the hostile tribes conceutratt-d on Jtlio Jeiii! pre^pariug to devastate the river-towns, the colonists erected a large fortittcatioa near t lie month of t'.ic Oromocto, iiid took refuge there. Ttiey made ^uch a bold front that the Indians retired and lisbunlcd, after having reconnoitred the works. " The rich meadows are decorated witli stately elms and forest tn>es, or sheltered Iby low coppices of cranberry, alder, and other native bu ^hcs. Through the nunier- lous opfiiiugs in the shrub!)ery, the visitor, in traversing the river, sees the white Ifronts of the cottagi's, anrl other buildings; and, from the constJint change of posl- Ition, in sailing, an almost endless variety of scenery is pn'sented to the tmvtller's [rye. During the summer season the surface of the water affords an interesting i t ' it.iin 'nil V' I 44 Route 8. FREDERICTON. ■■t spectacle. Vast rafts of timber and loi^ are plowly moved downwards by the cur- niiit. Numerous catJoe.s and boats are in motion, whilu the paddles of the steamboat I break the polished surface of the stream and peiid it rippling to the shore In the midst of tins laud.-cape stands Frederictoii, sitUHtcd on an obtuse level point formed by the bending of the river, and in tin- midst uf nuturul and cultivated | scenery." (Gesner.) Fredericton. Hotels. — Queen Hotel; Barker House, Queen St. ,$ 2.50 a day. St , 8F 1.60 a day ; l^ong's Hotel, .is 1.50 ; ConinierciHl Hotel, and otherb. Staices leave tri-weekly for Woodstock {i)2 M. ; tare, 8? 2,50). Kailwa>s. — to St. John, in (iC M., fare $2. to Woodstock (63 M.), Aroostook. Eduiuudston (176 M ), and Riviere du Loup. Fare to Woodstock, Jjji'i.OO (paiie 50). Canada Eastern Kail way, to Chatham (116 M.), see page 47. The railway briJge over the St. Jonn (finished in 1888) made possible a union sUition at Fredericton. Stpaml>«»at». — Daily to Sf .Ic)hn. stopping at the river-ports. Fare. .* 1 00. In flpring, early summer, and autumn, when the river has enough water, the steam- boat Florenceville runs from Frederictoii ()O-70 M. N. W. to Woodstock. Frkdehicton, tlie capital of the iVovince of N-.-w Hruiiswick, i.s a small cit}'' pleasantly situated on a level j)lain near the St. ,Ioim Kiver. It has 6,500 inhabitants, with live newspapers and four banks. It is prob- ably the quietest place, of its size, north of the Potomac River. Tin; streets are broad and airy, intersecting each other at right angles, and arej lined with line old shade trees. The city has few manufacturing interests, but serves as a slii|)ping-point and depot of supplies for the young settle- ments to the N. and W. Its chief reason for being is the presence of the offices of tlie Provincial Government, for which it was founded. Queen St. is the chief thoroughfare of the city, and runs nearly parallel with the river At its W. end is the Government House, a plain and spa- cious stone building situated in a pleasant park, and used for the official residence of the Lieiitenant-(iovernor of New IJrunswick. Nearly in the middle of the city, and between (^ueen St. and the river, are the Military Grounds and Parade-ground, with the large barracks (accommodating 1,000 men), which were formerly the headqiuirters of the Hritish army in this Province. Near the E. end of Queen St. is the Parliament Buildim/, a. handsome modern freestone structure, from whose top a fine view is obtained. It contains the spacious halls of the Low<'r Ilotise, Ltgislativo Council, and Snpreme Court (with its law librrr}). The Legislative Library, in a (ire-proof building adjacent, c(mtains i.'),000 vounnes, includ- ing Louis Philippe's copy of .Ajidnbon's " liirds " (open during session, and on Wednesday afternoons). The d'ief wealth of i^'redericton is em- ployed in hnnbering, and there are great booms above and below the city, with an important Hritish and West-Indian trade. * Christ Church Cathedral is a short distance bevond the Parliament IJuilding, and is eml)owered in a grove of tine old trees near the river (corner of Church and (^ueeii Sts.). It is under the direct care of the Anglicttii Bishop of Fredericton, and its style of construction is modelled I^MlL...^^ FREDERICTON. Roiiie 8. 45 fter a certain charming old parish-church in England. The beauty of the Eiif'lish Gothic architecture, as here wrought out in fine gray stone, is lei<'htened by the picturesque effect of the surrountling trees. A stone )ire, 178 ft. higii, rises from the junction of the nave and transepts. The iterior is beautiful, though small, and the chancel is adorned with a luperb window of Newcastle stained-glass, .presented by the Episcopal Jiiurch in the United States. It represents, in the centre, Christ cruci- Icd, with SS. John, James, and Peter on the 1., and SS. Thomas, IMiilip, lind Andrew on the r. In the cathedral tower is a chime of 8 bells, each [)f which bears the inscription : " Ave Pater, Rex, Creator, Ave Fili, Lux, Salvator, Ave Spiritii8 Consolator, Ave Beata Unitas. Ave Simplex, Ave Trine, Ave Regnaiis in Sublime, Ave Kt'sonct sine tine, Ave Sancta Tnnitas." St. Ann's is a pretty Episcopal Church, at the W. end; and in 1883 the Japtistis and Presbyterians erected line stone churches. Between (^ueen Jt. and the river arc the substantial City Hall and l^ost-Ofllce, ai.d the a'll-e([uipped Normal School, where the teachiTs of the Province are trained. The University of New Brunswick is a substantial frt'estone building, 170 Ift. long and GO ft. wide, occupying a line position on the hills which sweep mmnd the city on the S. It was established by royal iharter in 1828, rhilc Sir Howard Douglas ruled the Province; and was for many years a Source of great strife between the Episcopalians and the other sects, the fatter making objection to the absorption by the Anglicans of an institu- tion which had been paid for by the wlude people. It is fairly end' wed )y the i'rovincc, and does an important work in carrying on the higher education of the country, despite the comi)etition of ilenoniinational col- gcs. The view from the University is thus described by Prof. Johnston: " From the high ground above FreJoricton I again felt how very delightful it is t^ L-ast the eyes, weary of stony Ijarrens and |»erpetual pines, upon the beautiful rivcv 5t .'oliii Calm, broad, clear, just visibly- Hosving on ; full to its banks, and re- Itctii)},' from its surtiice the grmefui Anienran elms which at intervals fringe its ^liores, it lias all the beauty of a long lake without its lif(>lessne«is. lint its acces- irifs arc as yet chicHy those of nature, — wooded ranges of hills varied in outlii:c, low rftiriiig from and now approaching the wat<'r's edge, with an fM<-;isi(>nal cle-u- iig and a nmf white-washed house, with its srill more rarely vier, 169(), an Anglo-American army ascended the St. John In the 8hipg| Arundel, Province, and otluTS, and laid siege to Fort Nashwatik. The Chevalier de Villebon drew up his garrison, and mldresscd them with enthusiasm, and the de-l tachments were put in charge of the Sieurs de la Cote, Tibicrge, and Clignancourt.l The British royal standard was displayed over the besiegers' works, and for thri'tl dajs a heavy fire of artillery and musketry was kept up. The precision of the firel flrom La Cote's battery dismounted the hostile guns, and after seeing the Sieur ilcl Felajse reinforce the fort from Quebec, the British gave up the siege and rctreattd| down the river. I' t The village of St Anne wa«i erected here, under the protection of Fort Nashwaak. Its site had been visited by De Monts in 1(^(14, during his exploration of the river.l In 1757 (and later) the place was crowded with Aoxlian refugees fleeing from the! stern visitations of angry New Kngland on the Minas and Poit Royal districts. In! 1784 came the exiled American Lo.vaiists, who dn)ve away the Acadians into thel wilderness of Madawaska, and settled along these shores. During the foUowingl year Gov. Carleton established the capital of the Province here, in view of tlie! central location and plejisant natunil ft'atun's of the place. Since the formation ofl the Canadian Dominion, and the consequent withdrawal of the British gairisonj Fredericton has become dormant. Wm 7 M. above Fredericton is Aukpnqne, the favorite home-district of the ancientl Indians of the river. The name signifies " a beautiful expanse of the river cau.'^edl by numerous islands." On the island of Sandous were the fortifications and quar-F ters of the American forces in 1777, wh(>n the St John River was held by the expe-l dition of Col. Allan. Tliey reacli *d \ukpacju(! on the 5th of June, and saluted thel new American flag with salvos of intillery, while the resident Indians, under Am-| brose St. Aubin, their "august and noble chief," welcomed them and their cause. They patrolled the river with guard-boats, aided the i)atriot re.'>idents on the banks] and watched the mouth of St. John harbor. After the camp on Aukp^ique had! been established about a month it was l)ioken up by a British naval force froml below, and Col. Allan led away about 5(X) people, patriot Provincials, Indians, andl their families. This great exo^p| a young Parisian, the son of thnt Sirur de (Mignanrourt who was so active in settlini the St. John valley and in ddcndirg it .•■pnnst the New-Englanders. On Charlj Toix's map (dated 1744) Grand Luke is called l.nr Freufiist ,and a village of the t^anHj name is indicated as being a lew miles to the N. These shores wer»> a favorite caiiif ing-ground of the ancient Milicct*' Indians, whose descendants occasionally \\-\t Grand Lake in pursuit of nlu^krat8. The luml)er business, always baneful to tiiij Bgricultural interests of a new country, has slackened on account of the exhaustidtj of the forests on the Salmon Kivcr : and it is i.ow thought that a farming populatim will erelong occupy the Grand Lake country. Tlie steamer ascends the St. John River (see page 39) ns far as G(vji.\ town, where it makes a brief stop (other landings on the lower river iirej sometimes visited). She then crosses to the mouth of the Jomseg (soej page 43), where the Jemseg River is entered, and is followed through its narrow, tortuous, and picturesque course of 4 M. This is the most interj esting part of the journey. Wiien nearly through the passage the Vxm stops before the compact hamlet of Jemseg, occupying the slope of a liiP' on the r. On entering the lake, a broad expanse of still water is seen inl front, with low and level shores demuled of trees. On the 1. is Scot vilhiges of Mnqnapit and Douglas Harbor. After visiting Mill )ve :ind Wiggin's Cove, on the K. shore, and Young's Cove (2 inn»), the l;ir rounds Cumberland Point and ascends the deep Cumhivland Biy, at -(' liesid is a populous farming settlement. On the way out of the bay )x's Point is visited, and then the narrowing waters at the head of the Ike ;u'e entered. At Xetrcnstle and other points in thi-; vicinity, attempts ive l)een made at coal-mining. The coal district al)out the head of Grand ike covers an area of 40 scpiare miles, a»id the coal is said to be of good i:dity and in thick seams. Rut little has yet been done in the way of filling, owing to the difficulty of transporting the coal to market. Soon after passing Newcastle Creek the steamer ascends the N. E. arm, |)unds a long, low point, and enters the Salmon Kiver. This stream is tended for several miles, amid (he depressing intluences of ruined for- ts not yet replaced by farms. IJeyond Ironbound Cove and tlie C""il [ines, the boat ties up for the night at a backwoods settlement, where ie iveller nnist go ashore and slecj) in a room reserved for wayfarers in an ajaceiit cottage. \Brii!;s:'s Corner is at the head of navigation , and a road runs thonce N E. acv ss If wililcrncss to Ilichibucto, in r>0-(iO M. It is stated by good autljority thtt the fhina in the Sahnon llivor h;is been ruined by the luini)or-niills ; but t it very <)(l sjiort maybe found on the Lake Sti-eani, 15-20 M beyond IJrijjK's irner. jlsitors to tliis district must be provided witii full camp-equipage A road also (Is N. \V. from Brigg's Corner (diverging from the llicliibucto road at Oasporeau) Ris.sville, on the S. VV. Mirauiichi, iu about 40 M. 11, Fredericton to Woodstock. [stations. — Gibson ; St Mary's, 1 M ; Douglas, 3; Springhill, 5|; Rockland, : Keswick, 12; Cardigan, 16^; I>awrence, I7i ; Zealand, 20; Stoneridge, 22J ; irnside, 25 ; Upper Keswick, 28i : Burt Lake, 32 ; IIayne8ville,36i ; Millville, 38i ; laok:iwic, 43; Kalis Brook, 48; Woodstock .Junction, 52; Newl)urgh, 57; Uiver- |df, (10; Northampton, rdj. Fare from Fredericton to Woodstock, .5 1.75. IW(wid Woodstock .Tunction the Railway runs N. to Ilartland ll M. from Fredericton) and to Floreuceville (71 M.), and thence to Tobique and iv upper St. John valley. The traveller crosses the St. John River by the new railway bridge Idiu Fredericton to St. Marv'.s. As the train moves out, verv attractive • D »s iii3i r,0 Route 11. FllEDERICTON TO WOODSTOCK. glimpses of Fredericton are obtained on the 1., and at 2 M. out the Nas waaksis River is crossed. Tlien the train advances rapidly, and then follows a succession of beautiful views (to the 1.) over the wide and plncii St. John, dotted with numerous large and level islands, upon which \\\ clusters of graceful trees. On the farther shore is seen the village Springhill {see page 61) ; and the broad expanse of Sugar Island cros the river a little way above. At about 10 M. from P'redericton the liid changes its course from W. to N. W., and leaves the St. John vallcvl ascending the valley of the Keswick, — a district which is beginning show the rewards of the arduous labors of its early pioneers. The Keswici Valley was settled in 171^3, by the disbanded American-loyalist corps of Ni'\| York and the Royal Guides, and their descendants are now attacking tlifj remoter back-country. The Keswick flows through a pleasant region, ai has bold features, the chief of which is the escarped wall of sandstone oJ the 1. bank, reaching for 8 - 10 M from its mouth. From Cardigan 8tatioii| a road leads into the old Welsh settlement of Cardifjnn. The line next passes several stations on the old domain of the New Brunswirkl Land Company, an association which wns incorporated by royal charter before 184(J,[ and I urchased from the Crown 550,0(K) acres in York County. They established! their caj ital and chief agency at the village of Stanley, opened roads through thel forest, settled a large coni| any of peoj le froni the Isle of Skye upon their lands, and| exiended $500,000 in vain attemi ts to colonize this district. The country now traversed by the line seems desolate and unpromisingA and but few signs of civilization are visible. This forest-land is left be-l hind, and the open valley of the St. John is approached, beyond Neic-l burgh. For the last few miles of the journey beautiful views are given] from the high grades of the line, including the river and its intervales an(i| surrounding hills. The St. John River is crossed by a long wooden rail- way bridge. WoodstosI: (Wilbur ffouse ; Exchanrje), the capital of Carletonl County, is situated at the confluence of the Si. John and Meduxnekea^'l Rivers, in the centre of a thriving agricultural district. The [lopulation isj over 3,000, and the town is favoral)ly situated on a high bluff above the St. John River. The Episcopal Church of St. Luke and the Catholic Churclil of St. Gertrude are on Main St., where are also the chief buildings of tlic town. The academy called Woodstock College is located here. The country in this vicinity is very attractive in summer, and is possessed of u rich rural beauty which is uncommon in these Provinces. The soil is n calcareous loam, producing more fruit and cereal grains than any other part of New Brunswick. The bold bluffs over the St. John are generally well- 1 wooded, and the intervales bear much hay and grain. There are large saw- mills at the mouth of the Meduxnckeag, where the timber whicli is cut on its upper waters, in Maine, is made into lumber. 12 M. from Woodstock WOODSTOCK. Route IS. 51 ipital of Carletf the American village of Houlton, the capital of Aroostook County, Maine ; id the citizens of the tv^o towns are in such close so<*iiil relations that Woodstock bears great resemblance to a Yankee town, both in its archi- Bcture and its .society. " Of the quality of the Woodstock iron it Is impossible to spo k too highly, espe* liillv for makiij}? steel, and it \i* eagerly soiigiit by tlie aniior-pliite niuiiufarturerM in Kni^land. On »ix different trials, plates of W'oodstoi-k iron were only slightly in- Jented by an Armstrong shot, which shattei-ed to pieties scrap-iron (dates of the best jujility and of similar thickness. When cast it hiiH a fine silver-gray color, is singu- trly close-grained, and rings like steel on being struck. A cubic Inch of Woiod- [took ironweighs 22 percent more than the like quantity of Swedish, Kussian, or tiist Indian iron." (IloN. Arthuk Oordon.) The mines are some di."*tance from [lie village, anre du Loup, and W to Uoulton. Steamers run to Fredericton when the riyer is higli enough. 12. Fredericton to Woodst:ck, by the St Jchn River. During the spring and autumn, when there is enough water in the river, this 3Ut«' is served by steamboats At other times the journey may be made by the lail-stage. The distance is 02 M. ; the fare is !jB2.50. The stajre is uncovered, and lence is undesirable vui a means of conveyance except in plea.sant weather. Mo.st travellers will prefer to pass between Fredericton and NV'oodstock by the new rail- way (see Route 11). The stage passes up the S. and W side of the river. The en- suing itinerary speaks of the river-villiges in their order of location, without refer- Bnce to the stations of the stages and steamboats. Distances. —Fredericton to Springhiil,5 .M. ; Lower FVench Village, 9; Brls- Itol (Kingsdear), 16; Lower Prince William, 21 ; Prince Wiili;im, 25 ; Dumfries, ^; Ipokiok Falls, ^ ; Lower Canterbury, 44 ; Canterbury, 51 ; Lower Woodstock ; Wood- letock, 52. On leaving Fredericton, pleasant pro.'spects of the city and its Nash- hvnak suburbs are aflforded, and successions of pretty views are obtained [over the rich alluvial islands which fill the river for over 7 M., up to the mouth of the Keswick River. Sprinyhill (S. shore) is the first village, and has about 250 inhabitants, with an Episcopal church and a small inn. The prolific intervales of Sugar Island are seen on the r., nearly closing [the estuary of the Keswick, and the road passes on to the Indian village, where reside 25 families of the Milicete tribe. A short distance beyond is the Lower French Village (McKinley's inn), inhabited by a farming population descended from the old Acadian fugitives. The road and river now run to the S W., through the rural parish of Kingsdear, which was settled in 1784 by the 2d Battalion of New Jersey Loyalists. Beyond the hamlet of Bristol (Kingsclear) Burgoyne's Ferry is reached, and the scat- tered cottages of Lower Queensbury are seen on the N. shore. After crossing Long's Creek the road and river turn to the N. W., and soon reach the village of Lower Prince William ( Wason's inn). 9 M. S. W. of this point is a settlement amid the beautiful scenery of Lake George^ where an antimony-mine is being worked ; 3 M. beyond which is Magundy (small inn), to the W. of Lake George. :n '■ i! in .:'j III Hi 52 /?0M<« IS. FORT MEDUCTIC. The road passes on to Prince William, through a parish which ws originally settled by tho Kinji's American Dragoons, and is now occupie by their descendants. On the N. shore are the hilly uplands of the pai> of Queenshurv, which were settled by the disbanded men of the Qnecaj Rangers, iifter the lievolutionary War. Kich intervale islands are seen i the river between these parislics. Heyond Diimfrus (small hotel) tl hamlet of Upper (iueensbury is seen on the N. shore, and the river swecj around a broad bend at whose head is Pakiok', with large lumber-millj 3 M. from Allandale. There is a Mne pit-c e of scenery here, where tliJ River Pokiok (an Indian word meaning "the Dreadful Place "), the oui] let of Lake George, enters the St. .lohn. The river first plunges over J perpendicular fall of 40 ft. and then enters a fine gorge, 1,200 ft. long, 7^> 111 deep, and 26 ft. wide, cut through opjiosing ledges of dark rock, linj Pokiok bounds down this chasm, from step to step, until it reaches tliel St. John, and aflbrds a beautiful sight in time of high water, althouf;h| its current is often encumbered with masses of rifV-rufl" and rubbish froinl the saw-mills above. The gorge should be inspected from below, althoufilil it cannot be ascended along the bottom on account of the velocity of thel contracted stream. About 4 M. from Pokiok (and nearer to Dumfries) isj the pretty highland water of I'rince William Lake, which is nearly 2 M. in diameter. LmKr Citnti'vlninj (inn) is about 5 M. bej'ond Pokiok, and is near the| mouth of the Sheogomoc River, flowing out from a lake of the same name. At Canterbury {)Ao\V 9, inn) the Eel River is crossed; and about 6 M. be-] yond, the road passes the site of the old French works of Furt Meductic. This fort commantled tho portage betwi-en tlie St. John and tli« route by the upper] Eel River and the Kcl hikI North Lukts to the Chiputiulicook Lakes and Pashaiim- quoddy liay. Portions of tliese portages are marked by dttp j»atli\vays worn in tliel rocks by the nioceasoiis of many genemtlons of Indian hunlers and warriors. By I this route marched the devastating savage trooiis of the Chevalier de Villebon t« many a merciless foray on the New England border.'-. The land in this vicinity, and the lordship of the Milicete town at Meductic, were granted in 1(184 to tlie {»ieur CllgnaiK ourt, the bnive I'arisian who aided in repelling the troops oi" Maj-sachuscttJ! fttim the fort on the .Teniwg. Here, also, the Indians were obliged to make a portage around the Meductic lljiinds. and the command of this point was deemed of great importance and value. (See also the account of AUau':* | retreat, on page 46.) Otf this point are the Meductic Jiapids, where the steamboats sometimos find it difficult to make headway against the descending waters, accel- erated by a slight incline. The road now runs N. through the y)leasinit valley of the St. John, with hill-ranges on either side. Lower IVoodstork is a prosperous settlement of about 600 inhabitants, and the road soon approaches the N. B. Railway (see page 37), and runs between that line and the river. " The approach to Woodstock, fVom the old church upwards, Is one of the pleas, antest drives in the Province, the road being shaded on either side with fine trees, and the couifortable farui-houses and garduns, the scattered clumps of wood, the FLOBENCEVILLt:. Jiuute 13' 53 irindiugB of t.he great vlver, the picturesque kuoUn, and the gay ap|)carauce of th« kritty HtraggUug littlu town, all giving an air of a lung-settleil, puaceful, EnglUh JDokiug country." (Ooedon.) 13. Woodstock to Grand Falls and Riviere da Lonp. fl,^ Railway runs np tlic valley, from Wuodstoric to jjdiimiKlston, through a rather pictureaquo and diversified country, with charming fivcr-view8, and furniHhing at!ceM to very gootl fl«liing-groundH. Along the T6 M., rliere tin* St. John forms the international boundary, extending from 2^ M. above Irand FuIIh to EdmundHton, the scenery U very pleuttini;, with bold hilld enclooing ike-like reaches of river, graceful islands, iinil fiir meadows Stations. — Woodstock to L'piht WoodsttH'k, 2 M. ; Newburgh Junction, 0; llartlii.id, ly; Peel, 17; Floreneeville, 2,'i; Kent, 20; Hath, 29; Muniae,41; l»ertU, l!» ; Andover (Toblque), 51 ; Aroostook, 55 (branch hence to Fort Fairfield, 7 M. ; K. Lyndon, 14; Caribou, U> ; l»resque Isle, 34); Grand Falls, 73; St. Leouard't, B7; Greon River, 104; St. Basil, 107 ; Edmundatou, 113. It is UO M. by the Teniiscoii.irrv railway (finished in 1888) from Edmundston to Ilivit're du Loup, on the St Lawrence. Tlu! road from Woodt«tock to Florenceville is pleasunt and iu au attrac- It've countf}'. "It is rich, English, and pretty. When I say English, I ought, perhaps, rather to say Scotch, for the general features are those of the lowland parts of Perthshire, though the luxuriant vegetation — I tall crops of uiai/e, ripening lields of golden wheat, and line well-grown ' hard-wood — speaks of a more southern latitude. Single trees and dumps un; here left about the lields and on the hillsides, under the shade of which well-looking cattle may be seen resting, whilst on the other hand are pretty views of river and distance, visible under line willows, or through birches that carried me back to Deeside." (IIox. Ahtituu Oohdox.) The train runs out E. from Woodstock across the St. John vallev to Newburgh (or Woodstock) Junction, when; it turns N. on the main line, and runs rapidly through the forest, emerging upoti the meadows of the St. John, whicli are followed for a hundred miles. Victoria and ISfiddle Sinionds (Mills's Hotel) are quiet hamlets on the river, centres of agricul- tural districts of 5 - 800 inhabitants each. Florenceville is a pretty village, •' |)erched, like an Italian town, on the very top of a high bluff far over the river." The district between Woodstock and Wicklow was settled after the American Revolution b}' the disbanded soldiers of the West India liangers and the New Brunswick Fencibles. " Between Florenceville and Tnbique the road becomes even prettier, winding along the bank o^ the St. John, or through woody glejis that combine to my eye Somerse >hire. Perthshire, and the green wooded part of southwestern Crermany." There are five distinct terraces along the v.illt'y, showing the geological > hanges in the level of the river. 5 M. S. W. of the river is Mars Hill, a steep mountain nbout 1.200 ft high, which overlooks a vast expanse of forest. This was one of the chief points of controversy during the old border-troubles, and its summit was cleared by the Commissioners of 1794. M Haute 13. TOBIQUE. h ■m i mm From Florenceville the train runs N. 3 M. to Kent, where a road /eadil across in 16 M. to the upper Miramichi waters, whence canoes and tisherJ men descend the great river, GO M., to Boiestown (see page 47), tliroughl rich hill and forest scenery, and with the best of salmon and trout fish- ing. (Forguides, etc., write to J. Ilichards & Son, Fredericton, N. B.). Beyond the long-drawn town of Kent, the train traverses the pleasant I (but rather lonely) glens of Muniac, celebrated in Indian tradition; and reaches the little village of Perth, on the E. shore of the St. John, with] a hotel and four or five stores, and mills. The frequent views of the bright I river, on the left, give an appearance of diversity and clieerfulness to the landscape. Tobiqne (/. A. Perleifs inn)^ otherwise known as Andover, is pleasantly stunted on the W. bank of the St. John, nearly opposite the mouth of the Tobiqne River. It has 400 inhubittuits and 2 churches, and is the chief depot of supplies for the lumbering-camps on the Tobiqne River. Nearly opposite is a large and picturesque Indian villtige, containing about loO persons of the Milicete tribe, and situated on the blufl'at the confluence of the rivers. They have a valuable reservation here, and the men of the tribe engage in lumbering and boating. A branch railway runs from Arnostook Junction for 34 M. up the Aroo«to<>k T»lley, by Fort Fairfield (Col Una Uouh*), an American town of 3,fXX) iiilial)- itautii, near Aroostook Falls, Battle Brook, etc , and with several churches and flbctor'eit. It was m;ttleM|ii«* iHle ( Prem/ii - Jale Hotel; Pha'tr Hotel'), with S,.^) inhabitant.'*, a nt-w^piipir. «,p«Ta house, water- works, etc. In the vicinity are found bears, det'r, moose, caribou, ducks, and capital Bshin^, In Prewue-l»lc Stream, Aroostook Uiver, Squnwpan !/ike. Thence oti« beglDii the excui;«k>ns to the liUisle bikes, Milhiukett, Millnigassett, Numsuugun, etc. from Toh'que to /iathurst. Throwji the Wilderness, Th« new Tobique- Valley Kail way runs from Tubique beyond Arthurette. Guides and canoeR can be obtained at the Indian village near Tobique. About 1 M. al>ove Tobique the voyagers ascend through the I^'arrau-s, where the rapid cur- rvnt of th« Tobique River is confined in a winding canon (1 M. long, 150 ft wide, and 60-100 ft. deep) t)etween high limestone clitfs Then the river broadens out into a pretty lake-like reach, with rounded and forest-covered hills on either side. The first night-camp Is usually made high up on this reach. Two more rapids are next passed, and then commences a stn-tch cf clear, dei'p wati'r 70 M. long. Near the P of the reach is toe S(>ttleiu*'nt of Artfiurette,v/\i\\ about 400 inhabitants. The hi. J Kapidi are 11 M from tiH> mouth of the river, and descend between high •bores. Occasional Wautifully wooded Lslands are piu the attention as the canoe as«-ends still farther, passing the hamlet of Foster's Cbve on the N bank, and running along the shores of Diamond and Loi,,. Island, 44 M. up river Is the Aguhinac Uiver, coming in from the K-, and navigaole by canoofl ror 25 M. As the Intervales beyond this continence are passed, occasional ffllnipses are gained (on the r.) of the Blue Mts. and other tall ridges. At 80 M. Qom the mouth of the river, the canoe reaches The Forks (4-6 days trom Tobique). mmm NICTOR LAKE. RouU 13. 55 The Campbell River here comes in from the E. and S. E., from the great Tobique 'Lake and other remote wilderness- waters : the Momoeeket descends from the N., ' and from the N. W. comes the Nictor, or Little Tobique Itiver. It Is a good day's [journey from the Forks to Cedar Brook, on the Motor; and another day conducts i to the * Nictor l«ake, " possessing more beauty of scenery than any other locality I have peen In the Province, except, perhaps, the \ia.y of Chaleur. Clase to its southern edge a granite mountain rises to r height of nearly 3,(M)0 ft., clothed with wood to its summit, except where it breaks into preiipii'es of dark rock or long gray shingly slopes. Other mountains of less iieight, but in some cases of more pictur- esqiu* forms, are on other sides ; and in the lake itself, n the slia4low of the moun- titin, is a little rocky islet of most inviting appearance'' Ittiikes2-3 hours to ii-xcend the mountain (Enid, or Saganiock), whence " the view is very fine. The lake lies right at our feet, — millions of iirres of forost are spread out bef.'n? us like a map, sinking and swelling in Ofe dark mantle over hills and vulleys, whilst Katah- !' tln» frtll i« Hingnhu-, wliioo llio wiitor loHpn (V«nn tlu> AiMit luul iVotn \u\\]\ hUW'*, >vill» tiiint»r imil »l«'tiu'ln>(l t'ns<'H(l«>«« itvoi* tin' outor loiljios. |\«'lo\v \\\o rutiU'mM tho riv<»r wliirU iiml whifriiH for !| M. tht^Misrh n rnirooil jror^r*^ '2.")t< H. wiilo, wlio^^c wnlU «»!' dmU rncU me iVom lOOlo '240 (^. hi^li. "H iH ii imrrow mul iVi^lill'nl rlniHin, ImhIhmI liy ||ii> tnxihloil WMtov, ;(ii(l oxi'MVMtoil l»y boilinj!; «>t|tli<'« mul \\ I'ii l|Min|>* «I\vm\ in motion; lit In**! \\w wnlor |>l\in>:«»>* in iiti inniHMiso iVolliv hIhmM inln h bufin holow. wImmv it hocotnoi lr!Mit|uil, inul lln» vlrctnti r«'«iimo'* itn ori^i n«l t'oMttiivs. • Within the ^:org»' thf rivtM- l;ills AS 0. inorc. iiinl tho rn/' fiyd shoivs in*«» stvown with Iho wvocUs ol" hnnltfr rnlty whii h hnv«» hiToino on(!ingl«Ml \w\'i\ riio trnvi'IltM* shotjid try I > vi«it tho I'tills v.hiMi Iuii^mm flhont pn^ninji oyov. ;< - 4 M. hs'low tho I'mIIs i-* 1lu> ilimpMuuH linftiilv ili h\iHf»t'. Small slonnuT'* hiivo Ix'cn plMi-oil on (ho river nhovc llu* l''iilh, «n ili«» nionlli o('lh«' St. l-'runci'*, (.A M ili^lmit. It In a fmtUMoM of «lti> Mi««\i!i« » l)iti( in n n-ntod' np:i< n< on tl)i> n)<)>«'r St John hnntin^. iiml \m re HorpiiTil li\ ii \mii piirty ot tin' dtrann?!* HHil (l\i»Mil«'«t N.xiluMn linli.ui^ 'I'lic lollt'i wnc iU'wicmiIIii^ (Ito rivrr ti> iil t««k tho lo«.>r >tt«"n\ni' vill.Mjr''*, soiil liii> nl (lir tnn'il wonion to |iil t'lilU ll\i'\ ll^Koll (Iti ir nn>\lilhi^ ^niilrs it (lii> Htti'itni wiin nil hu\i>«^t1< I'olow . i>n(l on nM-i'i>in(i i«n !»{Hnn(ilo<' iin-wi r, Ik^Iu-iI tl\»' rim<'t"< )tii;rtli('i into « \'iit>.tn)it XMMit »«> sliH'p, «'\l\Mn'«fi'(t «itli thcit nunHli. U lim nom (lie ^liinul KrtIN tho ««>(non «jni«'U> (h"0|n>i'il tlM>«nl iiml s\\;nn nslioro, while Uio hnstiU' win ritM'^, wiTipi**'"! in shnni>«>v, wrn' -w«'i>l down inio (l\i' r!»|tiiis, otil\ fo iiwnlirn when «>m>m»<» «a» iinj>oMsit\l«> Tln\ f lir IMitnuic^ on (lit' ilvcr Im' low.Hud du' I'nno wi^nn'n won' over «(ti'rw«nl holil in liiuli honor li\ (he (i|Ih>. rn>s'*mjj[ (ho S(. .h>hn m( tJiMntl TulN, (ho lino nsoontU (ho K hnnk ot tho s(r«>!nn. !in«l M>on ond'vs tho ,\o:nlimi licnoh sot(loinon(M tiinl I'tninin^ tliK(riots. 8- 10 M. np tho road is (ho villsip' o(' Si. Liothnul, nouily nil of Mhoso |HM>ph» »ro Kronoh : and on (ho Amoiinui nhoro (lor (ho Si. .hihn Rivor is l"or uumy loMiinos tho In^nlior ho(\voon Iho nsitions) Is tho sinii lurly ooniilitntod villMjrt» ol' IViw Huun (t\v«> inns). I his distrlo( is hirgoly |>ooj>lod by (ho l\vr, Niolotto. nnd Miohi;:»d I'innilios. Rl Tho Hon Arthur tJordon thno doworilM's ono i^f tlioM» Aomlinn hontoi* ncnr fJriuul vor on lS«ii<^ Thowljolo iif.|»«'i'» of the fiinn va«* dial ot ii niriani' \\\ Nor mnnih ; tho outor ilinns of (In- honso n.indilx piiintod. (ho |>anol-< ot ii dilloi-out o»^lor fhMU tho IVjuuo, - tho lartn', ojH'n, nnotu|x'(oil i\»on», with itn hiin' hliinluK H«>«>r, - tl»o Ihhm's at tin' spinning; wlii'«>l, (Ijo Krcnoli coxtnnio and H|>|H'iu'»n«'i> of Miidamo > ii'lol Hiiil Ikv sons anil ttHn^h(<'rs, - nil oarnod nio haok (o (ho n(hor nidi' i.t tho Atl«ntio " (I'MMi/ 7iV»v >• (Trtrilitrs itni) is n hiunlot nhoiil 4 M. lu'Nond St. Loontird, at tho mouth ol the rivor o( (ho samo nnmo. Thf St John Hirer to thr I\iitt} nindo on this lino, h\ otijiajriiifr Acadiuii (H'Mos and ran«>«'> «t tin- Madawaslka »i«'ttlt'inon(«*. ,'J 4 w«'oKs will hv snl'loiciit timo fo ri'Hoh tho Hay I't (MjaUnr. with plonty ot nsliin>r imi tho way. On loavinjr (ho St. John th«« voxnpTs «.>scimu1 tlw (iiand Uivor to it^ tiil>n(ar\ , th«' \Vaa>riinsis. A p«irt (kjre otT» - t^ Si . tViMn this iitnM Waa^an. down w host' narrv>w cu'ront tho oiin«vs tttvnt thnMJ^rh th»' fori'st until tho l>roa»l Uoitti^oucho isontorod (scoKoutt) 16 ; OP* alsi> Hou Arthur Uonlon iu " Vuintion Tourl!«ts " tor 1802 - tW, p. 477). # iMADAWAHKA. liout,' II. Til \ \vH .ir f||,.|r trllii. "Ill piiiJy (»r III,. iin y\\v iiv'n- 1)1 Ml ' l»"<'f »ln'lll )|n«vii In- ftniim wiiH It 1 1 I tu'tii «|ii> (hitii,| !<' \\M ♦ " iiMiilii'ii whrii ^' oil III,. ilvtM- ill' l>.V tlli> liil)<>. *»ricf is Itir^t'lv iiH'n iii-nr nrniiil iiriiint' in \,„.. '■< <•• II (iilU'ii'iil if" t'lin' ^liiiiiti^ Mnuic«> of o Hu> OlJHT Hide <; M. iiImivc Orniiil Mivrr in St. Bniil, with 1,400 iiihnliilntit<« qiid n liirt^n I itliMJir ( 'liimh Mini flit' < 'uiivi'iit (iimI Si Ikm.I nf ilic Sjuri'il lli'iirf, A few milt'" ln'Miinl «n« soiiii' i-f 70(» inlniliilnritfl, tili "I wlioni Mil' Ar.iilijiiiM. 'I'liiM villn re wn« iiinirfioniliMl in IM>liri ft, ihn ,\« Miliiin Hi'llli'ini'iil <■!' KdinnniUtotW ,I'A//hj' //«»/«/ //"/«/ //»(/;/»)'i' tln'i-fm- lliK'iii'i' i>t' till' Minliiuii m. I'liiM im ||ii> ccnlrc u\ ilii> Ariiiliiin-l'n'iM'li '-•'illi-nii'iiU wliirli i-xlfiid fioin llif (iniiid I'mIIx. jiiHdiMlriil is slnddi'd Willi Untinin < 'nilndir ('Iiii|ii 1-4, imd i-« dividfd into iimumw liiiins, on wliii li mii' <|im:iil liltli* Immiki'm. IImic nn- lie li InirtM of iiilt«r\iilt' iilniifT ilii' rivi'is, (ind llif |i«M»|di' ai«' ^I'lM-mliy m ft iincspcroiin ;iihI Ii)i|i|iv nindilinit. rill' \isilnr sliniild aMn-jid to llin top of lim jidtily Hiliuili'd old lilork lioiisi' lower, om, - llicsj' Jailer wi-i^liinj; from In to .'{,'> |ioiuidn cii li) is to he t'lijoNi'd in iITh \ irinity, pMrlirnlMily in l'i«li Kiviir .ind the I ;iult< l.aiu's, (Iri'i'ii Kivrr, and Mm ri'iiiisronata ir^ioii. riil JM ili'Hri'inli'd from Mi»< Kri'tifti roionlMls who llvi'd on Mm Mhon'ft of Mi« |t:i\ III l''iiiii|v Mini llif IIiihIii of MlniiH iil Iln- iiiii|illf of llu« iHlli ifoliiry VVh»»fi the cnii'l •''lift of »«xiii> Mrtw i-jirri('i| intn cHii I in ITrn'i (•«.(> Uoui,. 'j| )|,„iny of Mm \<.'|iIImih II<'i| tVoiii llii> AiikIo AiiM'ri) nil Iroops hikI Look \\U\\[^i\ in Mic I'od'kI, A fior- IJiiii iif llifiii iiHcciHlrtl Mif St .loliii to lln> |irc'('iit wltn <<\ !''rc(ir^ Inter, in onler tint the liiinl ini«tit t»« (tivi'ii to Mil' reln^ree Ann rl< (in l,oyiili'viiskii reniun, svlitre tlioy Imvi" ln-cri |<«Tiiiitte(| In r«- iii;iiii iiiiillstiirlH'tl. NVIieii Dm Ainerienn IVontier wim |iiif4. " It sviiM |)leiiNjiiit to drive tilonif Mie wide lliif InterVfile wlilrh formed Mie MiviA- w.i-U.'i \iilley, to s«M« tlu> rieli iio|)-i of ftiit-*, liiicU wlieiit , and pofiitoe* ; the liirK*^, etlen liiiiidsoiiie, iiihl exteniiilly clcnii and loinfortiitilr-looldiiK lioiineH of Mie IntiHti- iliiiils, uitii tim w led IiIkIi grounds iit ii di-itui, re on oiir rlKlit, mid M>e river on niir letl, -on wlii'di nil oeniHloiinl lioiit, liideii witli utorex for the liimtterers, witli the lii'lji iif stout linrses, tiii|i>d avrninst tlie enrrent towiiroH the rarely ris|N>i| head- waters o| the tilliiitarv sd'eains, wln-re the virtflii foie-ils f.i||| stood iin'ons K lniiirid»ton, and li.is over 1 .tMKMiihahil lilts. The II. S inail-sfaire-* run from ihi-< j.oini n|> the vai- lr> of the St. .John lor l'< M. to another Aeadiaii villau'e, whirli wa- firsl. iiaiiiR,< V'llu- iitookwangnnds, Peohtaiv. kaagomic, and I'ohenegjimook. Atxive th^* Ukonth •<, the St i-'ransi; the Sf. .h i u Hivci :s included ui the Stjite of Mnint >\tui flow thni'>'i that ijvM.en.M' ami tra .klcss forest which covers "an «'xtent seven tinn- il'.it of till) fr i.t Hl.ick Forest of Uernian.y at its largest expanse in modern times. The Sfcit-v .;; fth(^de Island, Connecticut, and Del;. ware coultl be lost together in our Of ( (e.ji forests, and still leave about each a margin of wihb'rness suOlciently wide i(o !>iKk.< ;he exploration without a coni|mss a work of desperate adventure" Its chief fvibut-jry in the woods is the Allagash, wliicli descends from the gr«'at Laki-s PcMtgtM-kwahen and Chamberlain, near the Chesuncook and Mooschead Lakes and the head-waters of the l'en«d>scot. Tin' Kh'xI*' Lakt'H, ii Maine, are risited hence (guides «ditaiiied at Whitne.v'i!| by a ptirtage t>t r»l M I'm I /'r. iicliriHf, h M above Edmundston, to Loikj ImKv, when •«, by IMud, ('n)ss, Squire, and Kagle hitkes, and Kish l{iver, the canons de- scend through beautiful scencrv to /o/V A"« itt, 20 M. above Edmuiid8ton. There are famous burbot and whitetish iu these lakes. From Edmundston the TiMni'Sootinta Railway leavos the St. John, nnd asceiid.s the W. shore of the Miuhiwaska. IJiit few settlements are j)assed, and at 12 M. from Kdinundston the IM-oviiice of Quehec is entered. About 25 M. from Kdmiindston the nmd reaehes the foot of the pieturesciuf Temisoouata Lake, where there is a small village. The road Is paraliel with the water, hut at a consiilerahle distaiiee from it, imti! near the upper part, and pretty views are alforded from various points where it overlooks the lake. Temisantnln is an Indian word n.eaning " Winding Water," an up tl>i> Miidawaskn to Grlffln's, 1(5 M . then a portage of 2^ .M. to \J 1,5 Ijike: then n long ami ilellghtftd canoe-descent to Fourth Squa-took lAke : th •- ''I'-'n ln*o Third Hqua-took, from whose shon* Hues the noble-viewing Squa-took PtiUc ; and ther .^own to the Forks, and along the Tuladi Rlvor to Teuils* oouata Lake. The road Vnm Tem»scouata Lake to ^ivi(!>re du I^up is 40-60 M. long, and deavtnds thr^ur- «« wiM egion mlo which few settlers have advanced SHEDIAC. Houte U. 69 14. St. John to Shediao. l>«MiliiiC<^ • "St. John to Mon^t)n,oj r.i. ; I'aiiiMec Juuctiuti, 97; Dorchester Uoiul, 102; Sh' - .1 , iik), I'oiut dii C'h6n«, 1U8. St. .lolui lo i'liinscc .luiiction, see Route 16 rassenger.s for Sliediiic iiiid l*()iut »lu Oht'ii'C' ciii»ni;c curs at Painsec .Iiiiiction, and pass to the N K. oviu a Iev«'l and unproductive country. Shediao ( HV/r/rm/ W'frcWey) is a village of GOO inlnil)itants, with 8 clnuH lies, — Baptist, the Catliolic St. .losepli de Slit^diac, and St. AndrewV, tlie head of a rural deanery of the Anglican <'lnircli. Tlie town is well ituated on a broad liarhor, which is sheltered by Shediac Island, hut its conunerco is inconsiderable, being litnitev('n eij'hth'* of whom areof Krcncli ih-.scent. These- jM'opli) are nearly all fanners, eiijyaned in ' lin|{ the level plains of DniidaH, although a good harbor oiMiU.s liet\v(>(>n the viiluge.^. 'Zl M. Imni Shodiac \^ Burtmiche. {ivio inns), a pros|»orouH Acadian villagi' of 400 inhab- itjiuts, engaged iu shipbuilding and in thu ex{K)rtatiou of lumber and oysters The BnctoQche and Moncton Kailway runs through a flne farm- iug cuuutry, crotwiDg Cocaguo. 59 a RmU 77. ST. JOHN TO QUEBEC. •^ t Tt, St. John and HaMx to Quebec. The Intercolonial Railway is the gigantic and costly outgrowth of the Canadian National sen^^iment, which hnn eatablinhed here a perfectly equipped railway roote of vast p.:.lcnt, through a region which can never pay the cost of its operation, being thinly ettled, and exposed to very PcriouH climatic vicissitudes. It was deemed essential to h^ve a firHt-class route betwei^n the maritime and inland prov- inces, entirely on Canadian territory, even tiiough the distance id neaiiy double tliat across New England. The first road was surveyed by Major Yule, 11. E., before 1840, and ran across the present Nortliern Maine, tlien claimed and partly held by Canada. In 1846-48 a new route whs carefully laid out by officers of the Royal Engineers. The construction began in 18G!*, and was finished in 1876. This great military route runs from the E. terminus of the Grand Trunk Railway, at Riviere du Loup, to Rimouslii; where it loaves the St. Lawrence, and crosses the lonely high- lands of Quebec, reaching gnidus 743 ft. above the sea, and descends to the Bay Chaleur. Thence it runs down the nc rth shore of New Brunswick, and down across Nova Scotia, to Iliilifax, its magnificent winter-harbor. From the main line there are brandies to Dalliousie, Chatliam, Richibucto, Point du Chfine, St. John, and Pictou. The entire length of track is aboiit 850 M. >■*. • 1 *'^ -. , 84; St. .lean Chrysostome, 488 ; Chaudirro Curve, 492 ; HadlowJlOS; Point Levi' 91); Qm'bec, 500. ' * ' 484 491 For neiirly 80 M., from AFfncton to Newcastle (see page G2), the route lies over a dull couiilrv (railway from Kent Junction to Kichibutto). Stermers run hence to Cliatham (also a branch railway) and up the Mira- nki» lo, a!id carriages JM) M lu the hotel on the Tai)usintac, famous Cor groat sea-trout. The r.ulway ros.ses the Miramichi on inuiu'n.sc inm bridges, earned by i"J >Um< j hmv.; ;\r\\ runs for nearly 50 M. to Bathurst (see page 05), where it ciw.sses th" K 'pif-iguit un a long bridge of Knglish iron. The .xceuery is much Wva-v, ;«- the train rushc. on, with fre(|uent glimpses of the Ila\ nl ('hauur, t'T oO M., to Dalhousie (>ce page 07), M. beyond which is Campbellton (page 08), with its railway d' .iiig-room. Charming scenery f"l .iw>, and tue line crohses tl, Kesligouche Kiver on a noble iron bridge, jnsd enters the I'rovince (if C^nelnje. I J i-*^ ST. JOHN TO QUEBEC. R>mte 77, 59 h The Baie-des-Chaleurs Bailway runs nlon^ the N. shore of the bay, from Metapedia to Carlton (40 M.\ aiul is hcin.ir prolonged to Paspcbiac flOO M.) nnd Oasp- HTO y\.). Beyond the hamlet of Metapedia, the line begins the long ascent of the Mota[)edia valley, a stretch of 70 M, of wild, moimtaiu-girt, island-dotted, Scottish scenery, with no villages or towns, or hotels. Lake Metapedia affords a beautiful sight, and abounds in lish and game, but no accoinmo- lialions for tourists have yet been prepared. Vast forests hem in tjje road on every side, stretching lor many leagues along the dreary and uninhab- iu'd highlands. About the only product of the region is salmon, the long and rapid Metapedia River affording fair sport to one or two owners of iish- ing lodges. ... A few small lumber-mills have been started within a year or two, around whioh are clustered the wooden dwellings of th<; work- men Sayabec, a few miles farther on, through the woods, is a lonely sta- tion at the crossing of the old military road from Quebec to New Bruns- wick. A long up-grade leads thence to Malphet Lake, and soon reaches the Tartigon Kiver, which it follows down to the village of the same name. A dreary stretch of track follows, partly obscured in deep rocky cuttings, and partly running through the di'hris of burned forests, and conducting, at last, to the shores of the St. Lawrence River, by the Metis Falls and the great cuttings near St. Octave, which is the station for the Grand and Little Metis, famous salmon-streams, where good hunting is found. There is a large summer-hotel at Little Metis. The Grand Metis River is cnsssed by a long, lofty, and costly railway bridge, supported on high stone abutments a mile or two below which is the (irand Metis Fall, where the river descends 75 ft. at a single plunge. A few miles beyond is St. Flnne, where the route enters the more thickly settled French country along the St. Lawrence. 60 Route 15, RICHIBUCTO. r %'t\ 15. The Bay of Chalenr and the North Shore of New Brunswick. Since the construction of the Intercolonial Railwny, tlip routes of Pro- vincial travol have undergone many important chanjjes, particuhnlv around the N. shore of Now Brunswick, where tlie trains on this great route have supplanted tlie services of the stenniships. The regular steam- ship lines between Quebec and Prince Kdward Island, wliich used to serve these ports, now no more visit the shores of New Brunswick. The Quebec steamships do not now go up the Bay of Chaleur, but the account of the Bay is retained for the use of voyagers by other vessels. A steamboat leaves Dalhousie several times a week for ports on the Bay of Cbaleur, running out as far as Gasf)^. Biohibucto ( Phair's JloUt) is the capiuil of Kent County, and cccupies a favorable posi.«on for commerce and shiphuiiding near the m»»uth of the Richibucto River. It has ab< ut 800 inl)abitaiits and -i churches, and is engaged in the exportation of lumber and caimed lobsters. Tlie river is navigable for 20 M., and has been a great highway fur lumber-ves.sels, although now the supply of the forests is wellnigh exhausted. In the region about Richibucto are many Acadian faruiers, and the liamlet of Al- douin liiver, 4 M. from the town, pertains to this people. The Kent K: *;hern Railway runs 27 M. S. \V. froui Richibucto to Kingston and Kent Junction (Bnm-n's Uotvl) on the Iiitereolonial Railway. The rail- way leads also N. W. 7 M. to -SV. Louis, with its convent and sacred well. A road leads S. VV. through the wilderness to the Grand-Lake district (see pages 48-41)). The Beaches ($ 2-.'} a day ; ;.'ductions for season) is a new summer- resort near Richibucto, ^siii accomm Nations for 200 guests, with ca;ital facilities for boating and bathing, lishingand shooting, sailing and driving, bowling and billiards, etc., and grounds for tennis and cricket, croquet and base-ball. Indian guides may be obtained here. There is no piano in the main building. Richibucto and The Beaches are reached only by the Intercoloidal Rail- way and the Kent Northern «& St. Louis Railway. The name Richibucto signifies " the River of Fire," and the shores of the riv( r and bay were formerly inhnliitrd t>y a ftnuiouH and hloodthirsty triho of Indi ii . So late as 1787, when the Anu'riran Loyalist Powell fettled here, there wtro bit foi • Christian families (and tli»v were Acadians) in all thin region (the present (oiuity ( f Kent). The power of the llichibuctos was broken in 1724, when all their warrior. , CHATHAM. RnUe 15. 61 under command of Arpmoosh (" the Grent Wizard "), attacked Canso and captured 17 MaMachusetts veHHels. Two wolUinaiinctJ VtiHwld of Bodtun and Capo Ann were sent after them, and oTertook the Indian f1i>(>ton the roast. A desperate naval battle ensued between the Ma«!*achusetts sloops and the Indian prize-sliips. The Kichi- buctos fought with great valor, but were finnlly disconcerted by sliowera of hand- grenades from the AniericanH,and nearly every warrior wa8 cither killed or drowned. After emerging from Hicliiliuc-to harbor, the steamer runs N. across the opening of the shallow Koueliihougtiac Hay, whose shores arc low sand- bars and beaches which enclose shoal lagoons. 5 M. above I'oint Sapin is Kscuminac Point, on which is a powerful white light, visible for 26 M. The course is now laid more to th(^ W., across the Miramichi Bay, and on the 1. are seen the pilots' village and the lighthouses on Preston's Beach. The entrance to the Inner Bay of Miramichi is between Fox Island and I'ortage Island, the latter of which bears a lighthouse. The Inner Bay is 13 M. long and 7-8 M. wido, and on the S. is seen Vin Island, back of which is the Bay da Vin. Two centuries ago all this shore was occupied by French settlements, whoso only remnant now is the hamlet of Portago IJoad, in a remote corner of the bay. When about 9 M. from the entrance, the steamer passes between Point Quart and Grand Dime Islanportsiuaii"« paradise," a uarrow ttud .sliallow ^t^eam iu wUieli an abumlauee ot trout is I'uuuil. Tri-weekiy sta.es run fvuiu Chatiiaiu N. E. to Oak I'oitjt, 11 M. ; Burnt Cliurel' 20; Neguac,2o; Tal)U.MuUe, 37; Tiueadie, 62; I'o.kuioueue, «J4 ; ."^liippigau, 70;' and Cariquetle ^Luwor). 73. Tiie tir.^i 3 J M. oltnis road are along (or ueur) .lie n! sliore of tae Mirauiichi iUver uud the iuuer llay, by the hauilets ol Oak Point and Burnt ChurcU. in !i 62 Route 15. THE MIRAMICHT. A - Burnt Church Im ntill tho rapital of the Mlrmac Indiana of the Proyince, and here they gather in great nunibnrH on St. Annc'H Day and engage in religiouH riti.s and athletSc sports and danri'H Hon. Artliur (Sordon navH; "I waa Hurpriscd hy the ruriouK rewniMuncw lu'tween ♦ln'Ke dnnrps and those of tlie lJre<'k pt>ai»antry. Even tho roHtunicM were in some decree siiiiiliir, and I nctticed more than one Bliort colorcd-Hilk jiirket and liandkercliief bound head that carried me itaek to Ithacu and I'axo."' (Vacation 'J'ol'kists, 18H3 ) TnliUHintac (xmall inn) is near the mouth of tlie Tiihusint'ic Iliver, and is a Pn'shyti'rian village of al»o»it 400 iniiaiiitantx, most of wliom are eti^raged in the flHlicricH. Many large pea-trout arc eaught near the nuufh of the river, and in October immense numberw of wild g<'ese and du« kn are f'lot in tho adjacent lagoons. Trai aclie is a nettlemont vsliich eontaiuH 1,2(0 Frenc li Aradians, and i.« sitiiatol near a broad lagoon whirh lieN inside a line of Hand-barR. Salmon, cod, nnd herriiiL' are found in the adjacent waters, and moflt of the people an' engaged in the fish- eries. Tho Trarailie Lazaretto is devoted to the reception of persons nfflirted witli the leprosy, wljich prevails to sonie extent in tliis district, but lias diminished since the government eerludod tiie lep<'rs in this remote liospital There is an old tnwli- tion that the leprosy was introduced into tliis region during the la?t century, when a French vessel wan wreckeil on the coast, some of whose sailors were from Mar- seilles and had contracted the true elepfiavtinsis ii;rf7rmum (Kastern leprosy) in the Levant. Its peri)t'tuation and hereditary transmission is attributed ».; the closencs.s of the ndation in which intermarriage is sanctioned among the Acadians (sometimes by dispensations from the (Miurcii) Pockmouche is a settlcnient of SfK) Acadian farmers, and here the mail-route forks, — one road running (> M. N. K to Shippigan (see page tJ4), the other run- ning i) M. N. to Lower Caracjuette (see page W;. River-steamers run up the N. W. and S. \V. branches, and occasionally to Burnt Church and Uay du Vin. Another river-steamer runs up the river four times daily to Newcastle (0 M.), touching at l)ougla.-.town, adiugy village on the N. buuk, where much lumber is loaded on the shii>s which tiike it lience to Euro|)e. This village contains about 400 inhabitants, and has u murine hospital, built of etuue. Newcastle ( WavtrUij /Iol< I) h the capital of Norihuiuberlaud Countv. and is situated at the litad ol deep-water navigation on the IMlraniich. River. It has about 1,500 inliabitants, and is engaged in shipbuilding and the exportation of fish and hnnber, oysters, and preserved h>b8ters. One of the ehief stations of the Intercolonial Hailway is located here, and a braneh lin< has been built to (Jhaiham. 150,000,000 ft. of lumber are ex- ported hence annually. There are 5 churches here. A short distance above Newcastle, and beyond the Irish village of Nel- son, is the confluence of the great rivers known as the N. W. Miramiclii and the S. W. Miramiehi. These strenins are crossed by the largest and most costly bridges on the line of the Intercolonial Kailway. The njinic Miramiehi signifies " Happy Retreat," and indicates the love that the In- dians entertained for these fine hunting and fishing grounds. The upper waters of the rivers traverse wide districts of unsettled country, and an* visited by hardy and adventurous sportsmen, who capture large numbers of trout and salmon. This system of waters is connected by portages witli the Nepisiguit, the Restigouche, the U{)sul(iuitcli, the Tobique, and tlK? Nashwaak Rivers. The best salmon-pools are on the S. W. Miramiclr beyond Hoiestown, at the mouths of the Salmon, Rocky, Clearwater, and burnt Hill Brooks. A railway runs from Chaiham to Boiestowu and Kredericton (see page 47). Steamboats four times daily from Newca^tli; to Chatham. SHIPPIGAN ISLAND. Route 15. 63 Beauhnir\% Ixlarvt W off upper Neliion, and wm formerly oocupic*! by a prosperous French town, but few re 11<;h of which are now to l>e hih-u It wiw ilerttro^e*! by a Britirih naval iittack in 1759 A colony wam planted here \n 1722, un honnert, a church, and a 10 guu battery. In 1(542-41 tlio Mlraniichi district wjw occupied by .Fean .lai|ne e.-talilislnneiil-> were destnned, and tlieir jm**)- ple were forced to flee to \epi.>i)iuit In Itt72. .ifter the Ti-eafy of Itreda, several fuinilies from St. Main landed on this coast ami fniinded a villaire at Hay du Vin. Kroni 174)) to 1757 a Honrishintf rrad«! was carried on between tije Mi.aniichi country and I"' ranee, ureat (piantities (»f furs beinjf exported. Hut the crops filled in 1757, and the relief-ships from France were captured by tlie Hritish. In the wint^'r of 1758 the transport ////»r/*V«H^, of >lorl:dx, was \\reef tiers died during the winter, and were buried mi lieaubair's Point. Those who sur\ivcd tied from the sceiu^of such bitter sulTeriuK, and by the arrival of spring? there were not threi-score inhabitants about the bay. In 1759 a Hritish war-vessel entered the bay for wood and water, and the fln*t boat's-crew which landed was cut olf an I exterminated hy the Indians. The fri(i^ite bombarded the French Fort batteries, and annihilated the town at Canadian (!ovo. Then sailing to the \. K., tin* connnander landed a fon-e at Nenuac, and burnt the Catholic chapel, tlie inli ihitants havinfi lied to the woods. Ne;;uac is known to thin day only by the name of Hurnt Church. After this fierce foray all the N. coast of New Brunswick was de."ii;ni(icimt Scotch trading po>t on the S. W. Miramldil, where 1,5ricans, but in 1777 the river wa-s visited by the sloop-of-war Vii>fr and the captured American privat«'er Lafayette. The American Hag was displayed on tin; latter veH>el, and it was given out that her crew were Hostonians, by which means .1') Indi.-ins from the great coun- cil at Hartibog were dwoyed gtithered secretly and concerte danger was averted by the ititorpo-ition of the French Catholic priests, who c.auseil the Indians to dis|MT-e. In October, 1825, this district w.is de.solateil by the great Miramichi Fire, which swept over ;3,00(»,(X)0 ar-res of forest, and destroyed .S 1.M(M>,(MI0 worth uX property and 160 human lives. The town of Newca-itle w.is laid in .Hhes, and all tlu! lower Mi- ramichi Valley became a blackened wilderness. The only escape for lite was by rushing into the rivers while t'l" storm of fire pa.«s.''ed •>verliead : and here, nearly covered by tlie hi.ssing waters, were men and women, the wild animals of the woods, and the domestic bea.stti of the farm. On loiiviiij; the Minunichi Kiver and Buy tho vossol stonins out into the (iiilf, loiiviiip; on the X. W. tlie low sliorcs of ralMislntnc and Trat'adie, In- dented i»y wide and shalNtw ln;;oons (see pap;e 02). Al^er running ahont 35 .M. the low red cliffs of Shippigan Island are seen on the \V. This island is 12 M. long liy 8 M. wide, and is iidnil)ited by Acadian fislicnneii. On the S. W. .shore i.s the handet of Alexander I'oint, on Alemrk Hav, opposite the populous village and tnaginlicent liarhordf NAi/YxV/an. Tlieri? m-e valinihle fisheries of herring, cod, and niai'ker(d <>lf these shore.*, and the deep triple harbor is well sludtered by the islands of Shippigan and Porksnedio, fonnincr a secure haven of refnirc for the American and Cana^ dinn fleets. Noble wild-dnck shooting In rf in spring and fall. i IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) Y / t/. <^ fA 1.0 I.I 1-25 i 1.4 ■ 2.0 ill 1.6 % /] ed that th<'y may once more enter the.«e waters in droves. At an early date the Jesuits established the mission of St. Charles dc Mis-cov., but the priests were soon killed by the climate, and no impression had been made on the Indians. It is claimed that then; may still be seen the ruins of the post of the Royal Company of Miscou, which was founded in 1635 for the pursuit offish and walruses, and for a time derived a great revenue from this district. Fortifications were also erected here by M. Denys, Sieur de Fronsac. The steumer alters her course gradually to the W. and passes the fixed red light on Birch Point, and Point IMiscou, with its high green knoll. Between Point Miscou and Cape Despair, 25 M. N., is the en- trance to the Bay of Chaleur. The Bay of Chaleur was known to the Indians by the name of Ecketuam Nemaache, signifying "a Sea of Fish," and that name is still applicable, since the bay contains every variety of lish known on these coasts. It is 90 M. long and from 10 to 25 M. wide, and is nearly free from shoals or dangerous reefs. The waters are comparatively tranquil, and the air is clear and bracing and usually free from fog, aflbrding a marked contrast to the climate of the adjacent Gulf coasts. The tides are regular and have but little velocity. The length of the bay, from Point Miscou to Camp- bellton, is about 110 M. These waters are visited every year by great American fleets, manned by the hardy seamen of Cape Cod and Glouce - ter, and valuable cargoes of fish are usually carried back to the Massa- chusetts ports. BATHURST. Route 15. 65 This bay was discovered by Jaques Cartier in the summer of 153o, and, from the fact that the heated season was at its height at that time, he named it La Bale dea Chaleurs (tl»e Hay of Heats). On the « arliost maps it is also called La Bait' des Espagnols, indicating that it was frequented by Spanish vessels, probably for the purposes of fishing. — In these waters is located the scene of the old lo3:end of the Massachusetts coast, relative to Skipper Iresou's misdeed, which, with the record of its punishment, has been commemorated in the poetry of Whittier : — " Small pity for hfm I — He sailed away From a Ical^ing ship in Chaleur Bay, — Sailed away from a sinking wreck. With liis own towns-people on her deck I ' Lay by ! lay by : ' they called to him ; Back he answered, ' Sink or swim : Brag of your catc^h of lish again ! ' And off he sailed through the fog and rain. Old Floyd Ireson, for his liard heart. Tarred and feathered and carried in a cart By the women of Marblehead. ' Fathoms deep in dark Chaleur That wreck shall lie forevermore. Mother and sister, wife and maid. Looked from the rocks of Marblehead Over the moaning and rainy sea,— Looked for the coming i hat might not be ! What did the winds and the sea-birds say Of the rruel captain who sailed away ? — Old Floyd Ireson, for his hard heart, Ta'rcd and feathered and carried in a cart By the women of Marblehead." Miscou has the l)est shoot ii ^ in Canada : plover in Auif. and Sept. ; geese, ducks, and brant in Sept., Oct., and Nov, The Mai-Bay marshes are the best place. Guides ami canoes, $la day- Fredcricton to Chat- ham Junction, 107 M. ; thence on Intercolonial Railway to Gloucester Junction, -iS M.; thence on (Jaraquet Ry. (see pa^e Wt\, 50 M. to Caraquet; whence club-boat 15 M. to Miscou. Address D. Lee Babbitt, Fredericton. Bathurst (Ktary House), the capital of Gloucester County, has 1,200 inhabitants, and stands on a peninsula 2\ ^I. from the bay. Large quan- tities of fish are sent hence to the Amorioan cities; and the exportation of frozen salmon has become an in^portant bu'^inees. Tlio Intercolonial Rail- way has a station near Batlmrst. The beautiful Basin (if Bathurst re- ceives the waters of four rivers, and its shores are already well populated by farmers. Pleasant drives and sailing routes ami'^. lovelv scenery abound hereabouts, and give Bathurst a summer-resort air. It is .3 M. to the fine beach of Alston Point, near wiiich there are farm boarding-houses. The Basin of Bathurst was called by the Indians Winkapi^nwick, or Nepiani^uit, signifying the " Foaming Waters." It was occupied in lf)38 by M. Knaud, a wealthy Basque gentleman, and his retainers, forming a town called St Pierre. Enaud mar- ried a Mohawk princess, founded mills, and established an extensive fur-trade, erect- ing a commodious iiian.'^ion at Abshaboo (foal Poinf), at the mouth of the Nepisiguit. But some fimily troubles ensued, ami >l:i(laine Kiiaud's brother slew her husband, after which tlie French settlements were plunih".cd by the Indians, and such of the iuliabitants as could not escape l)y way of tlu^ sea were uuis.>*acred. By 1670 the Chaleur shores were aj^ain studded wifh French hamlets, and occu- pied by an industrious farming population. In lilfi the Micmacs confederated against them, and, under the command d by iMinipeans. lu 17()4 a Scotch tniding- post and fort was erected at Alston Point, on the .N shore of Bathurst harbor, and thence were exported great (luantities ot furs, moose-skins, walrus hides and tusks, and salmon. In 177*» this flourishing settlement was destroyed by American priva- teers, which al,>j0,342. Nova Scotia cnuglit .S(i.577.(»86 wortli offish; and New Brunswick caught .«!)! 2,285,6150 wortli, of wliich .*! 527,312 were of salmon, (P 500,306 of herring, *34(V>26 of lobsters, $83S.6m> of codfish, ifp 108,514 of alewives, 8?l»O,065 of hake, ^«)4,396 of pollock, $ 45,480 of oysters, .«41.85i of smelt, and * 35,477 of mackerel. The line of the highway, and the noble viewing railway track (with sevuial sta- tions) follow the coast of the Bay of Chaleur to the N, W. to Medlsco : Rochette, 12 M. ; Belledune, 20; Belledune River, 24 ; Armstrong's Brook, 28; River Louison, 33; New Mills, 38 ; River ('harlo, 44 ; and Dalhousie, 52. Medtsco and Rochette are French villages ; the others arc of British origin, and none of them have us uiauy DALHOUSFE. Route 15. 67 as 500 inhabitants. Many small streams enter the bay trova this coast, ^nd the whole district is famous for its fishing and hunting (water-fowl). The Hd. of this shore is followed by the Intercolonial Railway. Oft' Batliurst the Bay of Chalcur is over 25 M. wide, and the steamer passes out and takes a course to tlio N. VV., passing tiie hanile*: of Kochette, and soon rounding Belledune Point. Tlie imposing highlands of the Gas- pesian peninsula are seen on the N. with the peak of Tracadiegash. The passage between Tracadiegash Point and Heron Isi-.nd is about 7 M. wide; and 6-8 M. beyond the steamer passes Maguaci a I'oint {Maguacha, In- dian for "Always Red") on the r., and enters the Restigouciie Harbor. " To the person approaching by steamer from the sea, is presented one of the most superb and fascinating panoramic views in Canada. The whole region is mountainous, and almost precipitous enough to be alpine; but its grandeur is derived less from cliffs, chasms, and iioaks, tluin from far-reaching sweeps of out- line, and continually rising domes that mingle with the clouds. On the Gasp6 side precipitous cliffs of brick-rod sandstone tlank tiie shore, so lofty that they 8t'cm to cast their gloomy shadows half-way across the Bay, and yawning with rifts and gullies, through which fretful torrents tumble into tlie sea. Behind them the mountains rise and full in long undulations of ultmmarine, and, tow- (' ing above them all, is the famous peak of Tracadiegash flashing in the sunlight like a pale blue amethyst.'' (IIallock.) Dalhonsie (Murphy^s ffotet), a village of six hundred inhabitants, at the mouth of the long estuary of the Restigouche, is the capital of Restigouche County (see page 60). It faces on the harbor from three sides, and has great facilities for commerce and for handling lumber. The manufacture and exportation of lumber are here carried on on a large scale; and tho town is also famous for its shipments of lobsters and salmon. The salmon fisljorif's in this vicinity aic of groat value and prodiictivencss. Tho Inter- colonial Railway has m short branch to Dalhouyic station. Tho site of this port was called Sickadomec by the Indians. 50 years ago there were hut two log-houses here, but the district was soon occupied by hardy Highlanders from Arran, whose new port and metropolis was "located in an alpine wilderness." Pirectly back of the village is Jft, Dalhousie, and the harbor is protected by the high shores of Dalhousie Island. The Inch Arran House ($10-15 a week) is a fashionable summer-hotel, 1 M. from Dalliuubie, upcmu in la-ij, oii the beacn, wuh boaLinij, batUmg, uowlmg, tennis, biliiaids, tic. Open J une 16 to Sept. id. Orana scenery, ana irout and Haluiuu tLshing. '* The Bay of Cbaleur preserves a river-like character for some distance fVom the point where the river may strictly bo said to terminate, and certainly offers the iiiojt beautiful scenery to be seen in the Province From Mr, Fraser's to the sea, a distance of some 20 M by water, or 14 by land, the course of the river is reaUy beautiful. Swollen to diuiensions of majestic breadth, it Hows calmly on, among picturesque and lofty hills, uJidisturbed by r.ipiJs, and studded with in- numerable islands covered with the richest growth of elm and m:iplc Tho whole of tho distance from Campbiillton to l).iliioii.-'ix\ he was waited on by 5(lO Indi.ins, whose chief made him a long harangue. But the triVie had recently rec overed from a wreck (among other things)a box nf decaiiter-liibels, marked ItuM, Uranpv, Gin, etc., and the noble chief, not knowini^ their purport, had adorned his ears and nose with them, and surrounded his head with a crown of the same materials. )Vhen the British officers recognized the familiar nnmes, they burst into such a p<^al of laughter as drove the astonished and incensed chief from their presence forever. RESTIGOUCHE RIVER. Hflute IG. G9 3 M. above Mission Point is Point au Botirdo, the ancient site of La Petite Rochelle, deriving its present name from Capt. Bourdo, of the French frigate Marchault, who was killed in the battle off this point and was buried here. Fragments of the French vessels, old artillery, camp equip' ments, and shells have been found in great numbers in this vicinity. In 1760 Restigouche was cleftmdcil by 2 batteries, gfirrisone3. This road leads across the barren highlands of Gasp^, and through one of the most thinly settled portions of Canada., The French humlet of St. Alexia is near the mouth of the Metapedia River. Mttnpedia is 15 M. above Campbellton, and is situated amid the l)retty scenery at the confluence of the Metapedia and Restigouche River«. The salmon-fisheries in this vicinity attract enthusiastic sportsmen every year. Near the confluence is the old Fraser mansion, famous among the travellers of earlier days, and now pertaining to the Restigouche Salmon Club. The Intercolonial Railwav crosses the Hestiirourhe in this vicinitv, and has a station at Metapedia. 60 M. beyond is Metapedia Lake. The Metapedia Lake is 12 M. long by 2 >L wide, and is surrounded by low shores of litnestone, above and beyond which are distant ranges of highlands. Its waters abound in tuladi (gray trout), trout, and white-fish. 'I- .1- 70 Route 10. ST. JOHN TO HALIFAX. * iin point ulicrn llio liiti'n'oloninl Kailwny loMolu's (lio viv(M- !u\(l tmuH to tlic S. W. townnls (juicIku'. \Vh\ KimonsKi. iind othoi* sl;i(ioiis aloiif^- tlic St. Lawrwiico, uro doooribod on pagos 2r>0 2r>4. iE it 16. St. John to Amherst and Halifax. Tl»<» mittr trnvorw!* tho S. K. o«>\in(li'n of N«>\v llrmiHwIcU, ptiHsos Mio If«t1»nm(« nt f.lu' lu»H«l of Hh' Hn\ «>f Knthlx , Miiti iiHor rm^sinn llic ('iiluM|uiil MIm. inid niniulitiK tl»o bond of ("olHHjuitl Uav. imhis S. \\ . (o tho <'it.v of Ilitlifnx. It tnivci-NOH Hoinr lii- tonKstiMK »nsti'i<'tf* Juul iu\n M few ulinipsos of iillrin (iv«> hitikm'v, l>ut Mh> vU'wh »in» pxMU>n«ll.v monotonous nnd willmnt imv striUiii); lu'ioMioM. Dnrliim'iilin itnd pIciiHiint voatluT ploan- nn(»>r «.•«> <<> ^x* fVon> S( . ,l<>hn to 11 'lifax. Thoix> is no ii:<> of »'«i> lii>t\viu>i;h l>urin)i tho snninior tlicro is m diiv (ss trnlii. loiivlng St. John at 7 A. M., and duo at llaliliix at 7.1(> i'. M. ; and ii nl)jlit «'X|tn'ss, ioaving St. .lohn at H .'JO r. M., and «ini> at Halifax at i> v. m. IMilinian-oars havo boon inti-ndnood on thia lino. Strtllonii. — -St. .lohn : Moiv^'pnth, J{ IM. ; Ihonkvillo, 5; Tornhnrn, t? ; Hlvor- "Ido, 7 ; llothosa>, '.♦ ; Quispan\si.'-. Ill ; Nan\vin'»>\\auk, 17 ; llMin)it()n.'.i!'2 ; riismkoiij?, 2(> ; nioonit^old. '27; Ncrttin. iVi ; Apoha()ui, Jf.t ; Sussox, 'M ; IMiuiiwosorp, 47; IVnohsquis. f>l ; .\n:ijr;nioo, (U) ; Potitoodiao, «>() ; Pollot Kivor, 71; Sali.>-hnrv, 7(5; Hounditrv ('n^'k, 70; Monoton. S!> ; Iluniphro.v. lU ; Painsoo .lunotion, 5»7 (I)oroln'S- tor Ktv»d, lOU ; Shook, 1(>S; IVm'hostor. llr) ; Salt Springs, 1»)4 ; Hivor Philip, v. ; Thomiwou. 174 : (!ns'nvilk>. ISl : Wontworth. 1S7 ; Kollv Lako, ISU ; l.ondon- •'L-rrv. V,V.> : IVbovt. 'JtM ; lshp>nish. 1K\^ ; Truro, iiKi : .lohnson, *2'i(> ; ItrookflolJ, '2*24 ;■ Pollv 1W.'22J); Stowiaoko. ^tv? ; Shuhonaoa.lio, liUS; Miiford, '242; KInisdiilp, •247; Knfiold."'24i»: (Inui.l l,nko, '2a4 ; Wollington, •2r)(» : Windsor .lunotion, 'it54 ; Rocky h>ko,'2(?<>; IVdford. '2ta> ; Koin-IMilo U«uuo. '278 : llaHiax, •27t). *''«»r*.« from St. John.- To Sussox, 1st olass, $ l.;{'2, — *2d class, 8Ho. ; to M«)noton, 1st ok.xs, ;?*2.«)7. — '2d ohuss, gi 1 .7X ; to Shodiao, 1st class, !if!J, — 2d o1h*»h, f2; to Anihorst. l^t class, « .-^ 7S. — •2d class. S'2.r>2 ; to Truro, 1st olasn, # 5.02, —2d class, !? H a'i ; to Uallt'ix, 1st cla.-»s. » t>, •2d das-, * 4. Fnrc^ fmm lliHtU r. To Triiro, 1st class. !i« 1 HO, - 2d class, » 1 .24 ; to Plotou, 1st olass.'ff.-^.lS, — •^d class, S2.12: to Amherst. 1st class, *8.7S, — '2d class, f 2.52 ; t^-i Sho.liac. 1st class. !R4..V>. — •2d class. ^18.04: to Sussex, 1st class, $5 31, --2d class, $ 8 64 ; to St. .lohn, 1st class. $ ti, — '2d chuss. ff 4. \Vl^y-pAs^»lMl|^»^s can ostlmato thoir ox|hmisos easily on t!»o basis of He. per ndio for 1st class, and '2c. iM^r milo for *2<1 class tickets, which is tho tnrilT flxod bv the Canadian <}overumout for all distances of loss than 100 M. on its national rail- ways. On loavinj: the VnUoy statnni, in tho city of St. .lohn (soo pnp;o 19), tho train parses out into tho Marsh Valloy, which is at^oondod for several milea (see pacro 221. A short distance beyi^id Moosepath Park tho lino crosses Lnirlor'g Lake on an enibankiuont which cost heavily, on account of the great depth to which the ballastino: sunk. Tho Kennebecasis Bay is soon seen, on the 1., and is skirted for 5 M., passing the villas of Rothesay (see page 22), and giving pleasant views over the broad waters. Quispara- StrMHKX VAr.K. rinnlr fC. 1 bI» Btatiotj Ih J) M. S ((f (loriilolfi. jViiiit, wli«uicy tlm |>«Mipln ol St. .I(»lii^ on iiciMinnt of tlu^ liill HccMHTv ill tin- vicinity. St. Mirlln'M, or ^jiiitro, Ih iilutut UU M. H K , (in Mm' lliiv «>r Fnri'lv, nnrl \n now (MirnM'i t<\2 IM,, fiirn # I 50 ; ii riiu« |iroviiir(>, imhI Iiiin nvcr I ,(IIKl inliiiliitMiil-, with Hi'vcrnl clinrclir^ iinil otlit villnt;*' Im flic tiill lij^titlumwf (in liiiiico Held, KiiHdiiniiiK II I'l'Voivinn wliiti- li;^lit Tin' iiiiiiw ((iiniit i^ m ciiitrMrtion of llu> IlKiiiii \vnii|n (iiihi-nhu'iliK"' 1 iii"''iniiii.c " Mi'' Momi" of tin- Mimi cow." Tlio hIioi'ch iilioiit. (^iiiico lire hold and pictnr<<-'(!>it nuniherH. Hnuijiton Htntioii i^ I M. from Mm villfit;;*! of Ilntnfiton Ker K"itMel»('<'n"is, nnd i\t tlu' jnoiith of tin; Mill Htroain Vallc}'. Tlio train now rciicln's Sussex {JnU'.rcoliinlnl llutci), a pleu»ant villuj^t of 400 inlm!)itaiit,'<, wliciico the faiuouH farm-hiiidH of tin; Hunntx Vale Btrotch oil' to tin; S. K. Jiloiif^ tin; (mmji'bo of Tront llrook. 'I'hero tiro rcv- ornl hmidots (with inns) uniid tlu^ ploiisjirit rnnd HcciKiry of thn V'nlo, and piod trout-flsliinj.^ is found on thi; Htnnllor fitrnnrn^. 8 M. uf) is tho pros- jioronn .sottlciun^nt of S(;(;l(;y's MilJH, with 050 inhiihitniitH The HuHHi'X Vale wan nettled by the military rorpH of tlio N«w Jersoy Loyall«ts (inoNt of whom were (lerniaiiH), Hoon iiftor the Kevolnt.ionary War. and it, i.-* no.^r occupied, for tho n»Ht part, by their deHcendant.H. " (l(jod roadu, w(!ll-<, well provided inns, and an IntvllitjiMit, iridnstriouH (leople, all in tho inidHt of Hcenery lofty, noft, rounded, be.iutifnlly varied with hill and valley, mount. la and inciidow, forest and tlood, have taken the pl.'wo of the pathleHS wilderneHH, the L'ndk'ss trees, the untaught Indian, and the wivage ujooho."' (Prop. Johnhton.) Uoyond I'hunwcsc'op oocasioiiul glirnpsos of vSo long low ridj^o of Picca- iliily Mt. aro ohtainiMl on Mie r., and Mt. IMsj^ah is just N. of PenofMfpiig station (small inn), which is the scat of the Now Brunswick Paper Manu- i'u'turinf? Co. tind of sovoral salt-works. Tri-weekly stages run henco 32 M. S. K. to the maritime viliaire of Altna, on the fiay of Fundy, 5 M- N. W. of tho shipping-port ,f roint rF.'(/* (Stevens's Hotel). <• -f 72 Rmite IG, MONCTON. Petitoodiao {Mnnmrd House; Central Hotel) is 15 M. beyond Penob- squis, and is a busy village of 400 inlialiitants, niiiny of whom ore con- nected with the liiinl)0'*-tnide. 6 M. S. K. is the Pollett Hivcr vilhigo, near which there is pood trouting. In this vicinity are tlie P>lleit Falk, where the river, after Howing through a narrow de'ile between lofty and rugged hdls, falls over a line of sandstone ledges, and then whirls away down a dark gorge below. The caverns, crags, and eroded fronts of the suud- stone clitls form picturesque bits of scenery. 16-18 M. N. of I'etitcodiac are the famous fishing-grounds of the Canaan River. The railway now descends the VHlley of the Petitcodiac River, which was settled after the Kevolutionarv War bv (jerniaiis from Pennsylvania who remained loyal to Great liritain. Salisbunj (two inns) is a pleasant village of 800 itdiabitants. Leaving Salisbury, th«' Alb«'rt Kail way runs 45 M S. E. through the vil- lages of llillsboro, Albert Mines, niul liiversidc. to Albert, the tcriniiius of tiio line. UiUshoro, a luisy village of TOO iuhabitimts, l»iis 2 iiotels, and is a port froui whicli sclioouers and sinps transport, the plaster iiiaiiuraera hotise, He The Halifax train runs out to the N. E. from Moncton, and after passing Fuinsec Junction (see page 59} deflects to the S E. into the Memramcook SACKVILLE. JRoute 16. 73 *enob- B con- ', near where •ujrrtc-I Hi|o Vi^rtfl Cntiitl, a iifoiiiit| |m"«. ntiiMulii of Novji Srotlii. T!iN rtniMl Ins liccii pliniiit'd iiml drslrtMl tor over n «mmi- tnrv,l>iit noMiiiiK !>»'* vot licoii ilonc, rxcrpt tlii> siirvcviii^r of Mic istlmms. 'I'll- wookly Mtii|jr(>N run N. K. nlonvr tlio tcloirnipli-roiul tVnm Sh« kvi!l«' to .lolico'iir (|(> M ), Hiii«' Vortc lloa.l (14 M ). I':ii<« Vorlf (1^ ^..^-innll inn). i\\u\ I'ort KIkIm (L»(I "M ; inn). Alunit It) >I. N. K of Port K,i«iii Is Tapw I oriii«>nliiH>, " tin- j^n-jit lii>ti .loiiriiiiain tin' iiortlicrn poinfH of this hoailland, wliirh is a plaoo of iinportanro In a nantirai point of view, ntit only from lt.M position, but from U^ «langtTons and oxfonslvo shoals." Tln> snltmarlno trlo- Kraph to IMintc Kdward Island cro^.'-cs from ('.m|h' JoiiriiUMin ; .ind it is from tlii' point Mint tlu> \viiit«'r mail-.M'rvico Is condncti'd, when tlu« mailH, pMsi-i>nm>rs, ntnl l)afi;g!in:«> nil* .^nlijortrd tonii o.\«ilin>; anti pcriliHis traiL^it in ii I'-lioals to Capo Tniv- rrfP. Halo Vcrlr is S) !\I. \Nido and H M. drrp, Imt alVor Is no ptod shrKcr. It rc- rolvos the 'I'iniiish and (ias|M>rie antl duck, atid are a favorite resort of sp<(rts- men. Saekville has a Music Hall. The New-Brunswiok & Prinoo- Edward-Island Railway runs from Saekville to Cape 'rormontine, slop- ping; at intermediate points (see nhove). This is the winter nmil-route to P. K. rslaiul. At Saekville tlie Halifax train crosses the Tantramar River, nnd runs out over the wide Tantramar Marsh to Aulac, or Cole's I.slaiul (stage to Cape Torniontlne), near wiiich it crosses the Aniac River. Trains ar(3 sometimes blocked in on tiiese plains during the snow-storms of winter, and the passengers are subjected to groat hardships. The Missiguiish River is next crossed, with the ruins of Fort Boausojonr (Cumberland) on the N., and of Fort Beaubassin (Lawrence) on the S. These forts are best visited from Amherst, which is 4-5 M. distant, and is reached after trav- ersing the .}fim(pinsh Marsh. The Missignash River is the boundary between New Bnniswick and Nova Scotia, and Amherst is tho first town reached in the latter Province. Fort Lawrence is the W. terminus of the proposed Chignecto Marine Railway, whereby it is intended to carry ships of 1,000 tons with their cargoes between the Straits of Northumberland and the Bay of Fundy, a distance of 17 M. The Canadian Government has subsidized the pro- ject with S 150,000 per annum for 25 years, and an English Company began work in 1883. This .cheme is a substitute for the Bale Verte Canal, which was abandoned in 1875. Amherst to Halifax, see Route 17. NOVA SCOTIA. The Province of Nova Scofiii is pcniiisijlur in locution, nnd ia connected with the tniiinhmd hy an istlnnus H M. wido It in l)otuj(l»!(| on tlio N. hy thn Bay of Fumly, the Strnit of NortliunilK-rlMnd, and th(!(tulf of St. I^aw- rcncn; on the K. juul S. I»y the Atlantic Ocean; and on the W. by the ocean, th«< Hay of I'nndy, and the I'lovincc^of New HrntiHwick. ItH length, from Capo Causo to ('ai)e St. Mary, is <'JHIi M., and its breadth varies from 50 RI, to 101 M. Tlie area of the penitisula is lO.OOO M(piarp niilcH. The population iH4r)(),.V2;}, «.f whoni 117, IH7 are [{omaii Catholics, 112,000 I 're.s- byti'rians, 8:1,500 IJaptists, (10,255 Cluirch «.f Kn^'larid people, 51,000 Metho- distH, and OH Tnitarians. 405,000 arc nutiveH of Novu Scotiu, and 21,000 from the Hritish Islands. " Acadio is nnieh wanner in summer and nnich colder in winter than the countries in Kurf)pe lyinp^ under the same [tarallcls of latitude" (Sotithern France, Sardiid.i, L(tml)ardy, Genoa, Venice, Northern Tur- key, the (Crimea, and Cin-assia). "Tin! sprint^ stason is colder and the autumn more a^^recable than those on the o|)posite side of the Atlantic. Its climate is lav(»rai)l(! to :igricidtnre, its soil freiuirally fertile. Tho land ia well wat(M'ed by rivers, brooks, and lake's. The su[)ply of timljer for use and for exportation may bo considcM-ed as inexhaustible. The fish- pjL"^ on the coasts are abundant. Tie harbors are numerous and excel- lent. Wild animals are al^undant, among which are remarkable the mcx^se, caribou, and red deer. Wild fowl also are plenty. Kxtensive tracts of alluvial land of great value are found on the liay of Furwly. These lands have a natural richness that dispenses with all manuring; all that is wanted to keep them in order is spade-work. As to cereals, — wheat, rye, oats, buckwheat, maize, all prosp(;r. The potato, the hf»p, flax, and hemp are everywhere prolific. The vegetables of the kitchen garden are successfully raised. Of fruit there are many wild kinds, and the apple, pear, plum, and cherry seem almost indigenous. The vine thrives; good grapes are often raised in the open air. it was said by a French writer that Acadie produced readily everything that grew in Old France, except the olive. " In the peninsula, or Acadie proper, there is an abundance of mineml wealth. Coal is found in Cumberland and I'ictou; iron ore, in Colchester and Annapolis Counties; gypsum, in Hants; marble and limestone, in dif- ferent, localities ; freestone, for building, at Remsheg (Port Wallace) and t/v ? Tf 76 NOVA SCOTIA. PIctou; granite, iiear Halifax, Shelburne, etc.; brick clay, in the counties of Halifax and Annapolis. The amethysts of Parrsborough and its vicin- ity have been long celebrated, and pearls have been found lately in the Annapolis River. The discovery of gold along the whole Atlantic shore of the peninsula of Nova Scotia has taken place since 1860, and it now gives steady remunerative employment to about 800 or 1,000 laborers, with every expectation of its expansion." (Beamish Murdoch.) The pro- duction of gold from t Nova-Scotia mines amounts to $; 400,000 a year. In 1881, Nova Sc "•' ha.' 440,572 inhabitants, of whom 146,027 are of Scotch origin, 126, iG Ivu-ish, 60,007 Irihh, 41,210 French. Of these, 117,487 are Roman atltolics, 112,488 rresbyterians, 83,761 IJaptistS; 60,255 of the Churcl ',.iglaud, and 50 81 1 Mothodists. The territory now „. mpied by the Maritime Provinces was known for nearlv two centuries bv the name of Acadie,^ and was the scene of fre- quent wars between Britain and France. Its first discoverers were the Northmen, about the year 1000 a. d., and Sebastian Cabot rediscovered it in 1498. In 1518 and 1598 futile attempts were made by French nobles to found colonies here, and French fishermen, fur-traders, and explorers frequented these shores for over a century. In 1605 a settlement was founded at Port Royal, after the discoveries of De Monts and Champlain, but it was broken up in 1618 by the Virginians, who claimed that Acadie belonged to Britain by virtue of Cabot's discovery. In 1621 James I. of England granted to Sir William Alexander the domain called Nova Scotia, including all the lands K. of a line drawn from Passamoquoddy Bay N. to the St. Lawrence; but this claim was renounced in 1632, and the rival F'rench nobles, La Tour and I)' Aulnay, commenced their fratri- cidal wars, each striving to be sole lord of Acadie. In 1654 the Province was captured by a force sent out by Cromwell, but the French interest soon regained its former position. The order of the Baronets of Nova Scotia was founded by King Charles I., in 1625, and consisted of 150 well-born gentlemen of Scotland, who re- ceived, with their titles and insignia, grants of 18 square miles each, in the wide domains of Acadia. These manors were to bo settled by the baronets at their own exi)ense, and were expected in time to yield handsome revenues. But little was ever accomplished by this order. Meanthne Cardinal Richelieu founded and became grand master of a more powerful F'rench association called the Company of Now France (1027). It coii- 1 Acadia Is the Anglicized (or Ijiitliilzedl f«»rm of Arndie, Hti Indian word Blffnifying •* tlie pluco," or " the refiion. ' It is ii part of the ('(unpDiiiKt wordH Segfiel)en-uc(iaiv tSUu- bcnncudic', nicnniiiK " plaee of wild potatoes "; TiiUjik-rndic (Traeudic , meaninf? '* dwellinp- placc ' ; lSun-(Wa(lii:,OT " pliue of ertuil)errie8 ' ; Kitiioo-ticadu , or "place of englcn,' und otliers of similar form. The .Milkctc trihes pronouticed this word " Qtioddy, whence I'tstuiuoo-qvodihj (Passuinoquodd^', meaning "place of pollocks'; A'oodi-quoddi/, or "place of seals, etc. When u Hritish officer was descrndinia; the Shuhenacodic with u Mic- mac guide, he inquired how the name originated : the Indian answered. " Because plenty wild potatoes — '< (tdtbi'ii — once jjrcw here.' " Well, ' acadie,' Paul, what does that luean ? ** Means — where you find em, rtgoined the Micmac. sisted C foundlf ates, ai Catholi frigates found in In 16 tresses, cessful stronghc Scotia V ihce wa.' affectior the Briti tion of h the gove ber) wer nies, and In 175 French j of the R and in i; into sepa: During tl of the B harassed In 1864 measures the sessic Lawrence held at Qi rated. It all the ori« unite (or called Ac.^ nets could favored by bee and Oi "There orfurnishir is quite mil of surpassii more beaut NOVA SCOTIA. 77 ountles 8 vicin- ! in the ^linre of w gives •s, with he pro- [i year. !7 are of f these, UaptistSj nown for le of fve- were the iscovered ;h nobles explorers nent was liiniplain, nt Acadie James I. led Nova noquoddy 1C32, and leir fratri- Provincc h interest g Charles h, who re- jeh, in the baronets handsome iMenntimc pdwoii'iil It con- ll sifirnifving " dwellinp- I'nglcN,' uiul |y, wlu'Mce -Quoddii, or with u Mic- kuBi', plenty^ 'lat luean ? sisted of 100 members, who received Acadia, Quebec, Florida, and New- foundland " in simple homage," and had power to erect duchies, marquis- ates, and seigniories, subject to the royal approval. They allowed French Catholics only to settle on these lands, and were protected by national frigates. This order continued for 40 years, and was instrumental in founding numerous villages along the Nova-Scotian coast. In 1690 the New-Englanders overran the Province and seized the for- tresses, but it was restored to France in 1697. In 1703 and 1707 unsuc- cessful expeditions were sent from Massachusetts against the Acadian strongholds, but they were finally captured in 1710; and in 1713 Nova Scotia was ceded to Great Hri[ain by the Treaty of Utrecht. The Prov- ince was kept in a condition of disorder for the next 40 years, by the dis- affection of its French pf)pulation and the lawlessness of the Indians, and the British fortresses were often menaced and attacked. After the founda- tion of Halifax, in 1749, a slow tide of immigration set in and strengthened the government. In 1755 the French people in the Province (7,000 in num- ber) were suddenly seized and transf)orted to the remote American colo- nies, and the French forts on the Baic-Vcrte frontier were captured. In 1758 the first House of Assembly mot at Halifax, and in 1763 the French power in America was finally and totally crushed. At the close of the Revolution, 20,000 self-exiled Americans settled in Nova Scotia; and in 1784 New Brunswick and Cape Breton were withdrawn and made into separate provinces (Cape Breton was reunited to Nova Scotia in 1820). During the Revolution and the War of 1812 Halifax was the chief station of the British navy, and the shores of the Province were continually harassed by American privateers. In 1864 a convention was held at Charlottetown, P. E. I., to consider measures for forming a federal union of the Maritime Provinces. During the session Canadian delegates were admitted, on the request of the St. Lawrence Provinces ; and a subsequent congress of all the Provinces was held at Quebec, at which the plan of the Dominion of Canada was elabo- rated. It is now thought that this quasi-national goveniment does not fulfil all the original wishes of the seaboard regions, and that it may be well to unite (or reunite) the Maritime Provinces into one powerful province culled Acadia, by which the expense of three local legislatures and cabi- nets could be saved, their homogeneous commercial interests could be favored by uniform laws, and the populous and wealthy Provinces of Que- bec and Ontario could be balanced in the Dominion Parliament. " There are perhaps no Provinces in the world possessing finer harbors, or furnishing in greater abundaj)oe all the conveniences of life. The climate is quite mild and very healthy, and no lands have been found that are not of surpassing fertility Finally, nowhere are there to be seen forests more beautiful or with wood better fitted for buildings and masts. There ! ii T8 RotUe IK AMHERST. li m Arc in ^ome plnoes copper mtnos, Riid \\\ oHiors of coal The flsli most commonly caught on the const arc the cod, sMhnotJ, mnckorol, liorring, sardine, shnd, trout, pottc, jj^pai-ot, binhcl, stur>:coti, p)borge, — nil fish that can be salted and exported. Seals, walruses, niid whales are found In great muubers The rivers, too, are full of frcsh-wnter llsh, and tho banks teem with cotmtless gnuu\" (Katiiku CnAui.KVotx, 1705.) •' Hei'ewith 1 enter the lists as the chamj)ion of Nova Scotia Wero I to give a first-class certificate of its general chnrncter, I would nfilrm that it yields a greater variety of prodiuHs for export thnn nny territory on tho globe of the sauu' superficinl aren. This Is snying a prent deal. Let us sec : she hns ice, lumber, ships, snlt-fish, snimon and lobsters, coal, iron, gold, copper, plaster, slate, grindstones, fat cnttle, wool, potatoes, apj)le8, largo game, and furs." (Chaulks HALLoriv, 1.S73.) 17. St John to Amherst and Halifax. St. John to Amherst, see preceding rout«». Amherst {Amfnmt IfodI) is a fionrlshing town midway between St. John and Hulifax (i;?S M. from each). It is the capital of Cumberland (.\nmty, X(n-a Scot In, and is pl(>asantly sittiat(>d at the head of the Cumberland Basin, one of the great arms of the Bay (»f Kundy. It has 4..')(>0 inhabitants, and is engaged In the lumber trade; while the im- mense area of fertile meadows about the town furnishes profitable employ- ment for a large rural po])\ilatlon. Bi-weekly stages run N. K. up the valley of the La rianche to Tufniuli (two imis), a village of 300 inhabitants on Baie Verte. Tri-weekly stages run N. K. to S/iiniiin'ois and tho largo farming district called tho Hc:id of Anihcrst, which has over 2,000 in- habitants. Tho present «t>^nmln of Neva SroMa was ceded to Onmt Hrit^dn V>y the Treiity of rtrooht, in 1713, but its bonndaries won' not dofinod. mid tlio Fronoh dotorniinod to limit it on tho N. to tlie Missipuash Kivor. To this ond iiov. \ai .bniquii^rt' sont M. La Oorno, with (W soldioi-s. to oivot forts on tho lino of tho Missijjniish. The war- rior-prio5t. tho Ahhe I>!»lontiv (Vionr-tJotionl of Acailio\ led niaiiv Aondians to this rloinity, whoro tho Ihnirisliinjj: sottloniont of Urnuhnssin was fotiiidod. At tho same timo La Oorno ostablisliod a rhain of military posts from tho Hay of Fundy to Haio Vorto, tho chief fort Wmfi located on tho prostMit sito of Fort Cnmhorland, and hoar- ii\i.r 'ho name of nfnusfjoiir. Tho povornor of Nova Scotia sent o>it a Hrltish fon'o imdor Miyor I^iwronco. who captun'd ami destroyed Roauhassin, and oroctod Fort Lawronco near its sito. Tho Acadians were industriously lahoriiijj in tho pom'ofnl pnrsuits of afrricnlturo about Hoanscjonr; and tho King of Franco had granted SOaXX» livros for tho groat nhoidrau across tho Aulac Hivcr. Tho British oomplalncd, however, that tl»e priests wero endeavoring to array the Acadian.- against them, nnd to entice them away fhnu tho Nova-Scotian Rhon>8. It was resolved that tlie French foroes should l>e driven from their position, and a powerful expedition was fitU-iX out at Boston. ThpiH> frigates and a niimhor of transports eouveying tlie New- Sngland levies sailed up the Bay of Fundy in May, 17r>6, and debarked a strong innd fr)i about II fought < their ca Mi.^slgui When tl ntjd wit! log out sent to I U) (^uelM France. In No gervilln, vesNo! fri rison (Ml tlu) Ante lilockaile nian-of-w camp wai lied t.) M, men of (I HUCCeSS I) erablo nu Tho ru Aulac \l\\ It was ke| and Ntill |i deserted. Ou a hold ar(( the sc Acadians t road, is //, I'rlsed and The ♦vi beauty. N()v.i-Sc«»ti wide and looked, — t the S. tho (Cnmboriai Tho grea boing al.so slllcious ni; tinction fro of tlio n.iy dikes, with Tho land tl ing from 1 ' tivatod now Mlniull the estuarii' M:o rich luej of ;^riiidston Mines, pcrta Mines, (»n tli trict is road at Chlgnecto penny an ac raised. But ohinery wero bourg). I f>\\ most horrlng, all nsh e fotitui imd tho . . Woro :\nn that y OM tho Let us )al. iron, I, apples, I n\i«hvay •npital of I tho head iitly. It tho ini- t> oinploy- :. up the hahitants tho h>rp;c 2,000 in- TiTnty of lorinhuMl to ]rv sont M. The war- Inns to Mils It the same luly to Hak' 1, ami lioar- •Itish fono foi'tocl l''i>rt ho ^toacoful Ind jirnnti'tl joniplaiiKMl, )iiist thi'iu, \h\ that tho liUti(»n was W the New- ■«l a Ftronp FORT CUMBERLAND. JimUe 17. 79 land foron at Kort, lAwmnce. Menntimn l,200-1,riOO Arndlnnn ha«I twwn ((athemd about Heauw^joiir. by the influence or the \\}\t(' Lalontre, and a Hharp nklrniiflh was fought, on liMsle de la Valliere. On the 4th of June thi< Anxio-Anierican foneM h>rt their ennips on the jjhu in of Kort, liawrener, routed the Aoidiaiif^ at the fonls of thfl Mi:4siKiiash, and advanrrd h.v |)arallelH and Hi«<|i;i-hticM against the hostile works. When the Ilritish Imttrries reiwlicil Hutti«-ii,-<'hnrleH tlir fort w«m viKorou«ly sin-lltMl, and with sneh disiistruns cITcrt that it c/iiiitulatfMl on .hin«' I'ltii.thi' irarrison nmreii. inj( out witli arms, lia^rj^aKe, and 1mtni<>rs. 'I'ho Krench triKips were paroled and Ht'iit to FjoMid)oiMy, ami the Acailians wi'H' sulh-rrd to remain. Laioutro, esrapinff to (iuehec, there received an e( eltv-^iasticnl censure, and was afti'rwanis remanded to I'Vance. In Novemher, I77*>, <'ol. Kildy led a, force «»f Massiichusi-tts tro«»ps, men of Mau- Hervllle, Ac;uli;nis, aiirl Indians, afrainst Fort 4'nnd)erl;ind. He (Irst cut »iut a store- vessel from under tlie kuus of tlie fort, ntid cnpMired ncveral def.icliments of the gar- rison (Mm lloyal Kencihies). The ciMnmiitidant refuseil to surrender, an. I repulsed the Americans in a night-attack, hy menus of a furious oiunonnde. K/ldy then hloekaded tlie fort for sever.il d.ays, itut was linnlly driv«'ti olT hy the arrival of a man-of-war from Ifniifix, lirinj^ing a reiufi>rcemeut of 4pair by t\\o Imperial (lovernment for many ye;ir.-< afrntM an appearance of stren^tli and solidity, tliou^li it has l)e(;n long dc.'^erted. The remains of the be.sie^erH' parallels are also vi ibie near the works. On a bold bluff within cniuion-Mliot, on tlie fartlier bank of tla^ Mi !>iKuash River, are the .scanty remains of the lirilish Kort b;iwreuc«'. Niunerous relics of the ohi Acndians may still be tra«'ed in tliis vicinity. 5 M.aliov(( tli(( fort, on the; iJaie Vert« road, is Iloof/i/ llritli^r^ vliere a Hriti.'^h foraging party under (Joi. Dixon was sur- prLsetl and mn,sHacn'il by the Indians (under Krench onic«!r.K). Tile *vi«'wfrom tlie iKistions of Kort ('undtcrland is famous for its ext^-nt and beauty. It includes Siukville and its c(ille;:es on the; N. \V., Amlutrst and tiie Nov.i-Scoti.'in .*!. have beeti reclaimed l)y i\w erection of dikes, with ahoirfinir.r at the mouths of tlio rivtTS to i'xclud(! the flow of the tideH. Tho 1,'ind thus g.iined is wry rich, ami j)roduces fine crojis of Eoglisii hay, averag- ing from 1 '.4 to 2 tons to the acre. Tlie land stienis iiiexhau.Htible, having l^'cn cul- tivated now tor nearly u century wltliout rotation or fertili/.;ition. f The Chiffticcto Peninsula. Mlnudle Is 8 M. S. W. of Amherst, with wliich it is connertut has given only light returns. Middle Musquodoboit is a fiirming-town with about 1,000 inhabitants, situated on the .S. of the Boar's Back ri ge, 42 M. from Halifax. Upper Musquodoboit is about the same size, and beyond that point the stages traverse a dreary and thinly settled district for several leagues, to Melrose. The Halifax train nms S. W. to Elmsdale, a village near the Shuben- acadie River, engaged in making leather and carriages. Enfield is the seat of a large pottery. 7 M. N. W. are the Renfrew Gold-Mines^ where gold-bearing quartz was discovered in 1861. Much money and labor were at first wasted by inexperienced miners, but of late years '^he lodes have been worked systematically, and are considered among the most valuable in Nova Scotia. The average yield is 16 i)ennywei^lits of gold to a ton of quartz, and in 1869 these mines yielded 3,097 ouncos of the precious metal, valued at $61,490. The Oldham Mines are 3^ M. 8. of Enfield, and are in a deep narrow valley, along whose bottom shafts have been sunk to reach the auriferous quartz. Between 1861 and 1869. 9,264 ounces of gold were sent from the Oldham diggings. In 188J 1,500 tons of quarts were crushed, yielding over 3,000 ounces of gold. Soon after leaving Enfield the train passes along the S. E. shore of Grand Lake, which is 8 M. long by 1-2 M. wide. It crosses the outlet stream, nms around Long Lake, and intersects the Windsor Branch Railway at Windsor Junction. Station, Jiochj Lake, on the lake of the same name, where large quantities of ice are cut by the Nova-Scotia Ice Company, for exportation to the United States. 3 M. N. E. of this station are the Waver- ley Gold-Mines, where the gold is foimd in barrel-quartz, so named because it appears in cylindrical masses like barrels laid side by side, or like a corduroy-road. At its first discovery all the floi^ting population of Halifax flocked out here, but they failed to better their condition, and the total yield between 1861 and 1869 was only about 1,600 ouncos. Waverley vil- lage is picturesquely situated in a narrow valley between two lakes, and has about 600 inhabitants. ANNAPOLIS ROUTE. Route 18. 88 After crossing Rocky Lake the train soon reaches the pretty village of Bedford {Bedford Hotel), on the shores of the beautiful Bedford Bnsin^ and follows their graceful curves for several miles. On the 1. are fine views of the hills beyond the blue water. Tliere is a Dominion tish-hatchery at Bedford. Halifax, see page 93. 18. St. John to Halifax, by the Annapolis Valley. This is the pleasantest route, during calm weather, between the chief cities of the Maritime Provinces. After a passage of about 4 liours in the stoauuT, across the Bay of Fundy, the pretty scenery of the Annapolis Basin ia tmversed, and at Annapolis the pa&^jenger takes the train of the Windsor & Annapolis Railway, which runs tnrough to Halifax. The line traverses a comparatively rich and picturesque coun- try, abounding in historic and poetic associations of the deepest interest. The distance between St. .lohn and Halifax by tliis route is 84 M, less than by the Intercolonial Railway ; but the time on botii routes is about the same, on account of fhe delav in cos'^inL: the Bay of Funilv. Thf steamer leaves St. John at 7 A ¥., on Mondaj', Weilnosday, ThurMiay, Fridivv, and Saturday, connecting with the ex- press trains which leave Annapolis at 1.10 p. m. and arrive at Halifax at about 7 P.M. Express trains leave Halifax at 8 15 a. m on Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, connecting with the steamer which leaves Annapolis at 1.80 p. M. and arrives at St. John at 6 P. M. Farts. — ^i. .)oa:i to Ha.ifax, Istclass, $4.50; 2dclass, !J3 50; to Digby, $160; to Annapolis $2. P.is.sengers for Halifax dine on tlie steamer iind take tea at Kent- ville (15 minutes) : tho.se for St. John lunch at Kentville (10 minutes) and din » on the boat. There are two through trains each way daily between Ilallfax aud Annapolis. ^ Ofstances. — St. JohntoI)igby,43M. ; Annapolis, 61 ; Round Hill. 68; Bridge- town, 76; Paradise, 80; Lawrencetown, 83; Middleton, 89; Wilmot, 92; Kingston, 96; Morden Road , 101 ; Aylesford, 103; Berwick, 108; VVaterville, 111 ; Cambridge, 113; Coldbrook, 115; Kentville, 120; Port Williams, 125; Wolfvillc, 127; Grand Pr6, 130; Ilorton Landing, 131; Avonport, 133; Hantsport, 138; Mount Denson, "'" " " ""■ "■ " "' '"' Ellers- sor Junc- 193. The steamer leaves her wharf at Reed's roiiit, St. .John, and soon passes the heights and spires of Carleton on the r. and the lighthouse on Partridge Island on the 1., beyond which Mispeck Point is seen. Cope Spencer is then opened to the E., on the New Brunswick coa.^t, and the steamer sweeps out into the open bay. In ordinary summer weather the bay is quiet, except for a light tidal swell, and will not affect the traveller. Soon after passing Partridge Island, the dark ridge of the North Mt. is seen in advance, cleft by the gap called the * Digby Gut, which, in the earlier days, was known as St. George's Channel. The course is laid straight for this pass, and the steamer runs in by Point Prim, with its fog- whistle and fixed light (visible 13 M.), and enters the tide-swept defile, with bold and mountainous bluffs rising on either side. The shores on the 1. are 610 feet high, and on the r. 400-560 ft., between which the tide rushes with a velocity of 5 knots an hour, making broad and powerful swirls and eddies over 12-25 fathoms of water. After running for about 2 M. through this passage, the steamer enters the Annapolis Basin, and rung S. by E. 3 M. to Digby. U 84 Route 18. ANNAPOLIS BASIN. fle* ' t'l "The white konses of Digby, scatteTed over the downs like a flock of washed sheep, had a Bomewhat chilly aspect, it is true, and made U8 long for the bud on them But a» 1 think of it now, I prefer to have the town and the pretty hillsideii that 8tand about the basin in the light we naw theui ; atul especially do I like to recall the high wooden pier at Digby, deserted by the tide and ho blown by the wind that the piusHengers who eunie out on it, with their tossing drapery, brought to uiiud the windy Dutch harbors that BackhliyHen painted." (Warner's Jiaddcck.) Digby {Daily's Hold) is a maritime village of about 1,800 inhabitants, with 6 clmrciies, 2 weekly paper.s, and ZO shops, situated on the S. W. shore of the Annapolis Basin, and engaged in shipbuilding and the fish- eries of haddock, mackerel, and herring. Tlie Digb^-^ herring are famous for their delicacy, and are known in the Provinces as *' Digbv chickens." Porpoises, also, are caught in the swift currents of the Digby Gut. Quite recently Digby has become well known as a summer-resort. The fogs which hang like a pall over the Bay of Fund}' are not encountered here-, and the lovely scenery hereabouts, and boating, bathing, and fishing afford sufticient amusement. The comfortable Myrtle Iluu.'ie, near the water, amid three acres of fruit-orchards, is crowded all summer by Americans and Canadians. There is a steamship line from Boston to Digby direct. A French fort stood here in the early days; and in 1783 tlie township was granted to the ex-American Loyalists. A railroad runs to Yarmouth and to Annapolis. *' That portion of Acadia at wi|ich the voyagers had now arrived is distinguished by the beauty of its scenery. The coast along which they had previously sailed is comparatively rugged. Bur on entering the Ba,«in the scene is changed, many of the peculiar elements which lend a charm to the Acadian landscape being found in har- monious combination. Towards the east, islands repose on the bosom of the deep, their forms being viviuly mirrort^d on its placid surface, and from which canoes may he 8eei> darting towards the mainland, with their paddles fitfully flniihing in the Biinlight.- In the distance are graceful, undulating hills, thickly clad, from base to 8ummit, with birch, maple, hemlot!k, and spruce woods, constituting an admirable background to the whole scene." (Campbell's History of Nova Scotia.) The noble * Annapolis Basin gradually decreases from a width of nearly b M. to 1 M., and is hemmed in between the converging ridges of the North Mt. and the South Mt. The former range has a height of 6 - 700 ft., and Ja bold and mountainous in its outlines. The South Mt. is from 300 to 5(K) ft, high, and its lines of ascent are more gradual. The North Mi. was once insulated, and the tides flowed through the whole valley, until a shoal at the confluence of the Blomidon and Digby currents became a bar, and this in time became dry land and a water-shed. Between the head of Argyle Bay and the slopes of the Annapolis Bnsin are the rarely visited and .sequestered hill-ranges called the Blue Moun- tains. " The Indians are said to have formerly resorted periodically to groves among these wilds, which they considered as consecrated places, in order to offer sacrifices to their ;;ods." " We were sailing along the gracefully moulded and tree-covered hills of the An- napolis Basin, and up the mildly pictuiesque river of that name, and we were about to enter what the provincials all enthusiastically call the Garden of Nova Scotia. .... It is, — this valley of Annapolis, — in the belief of provincials, the most beau- tiful and blooming place in the world, with a soil and climate kind to the husband- ANNAPOLIS ROYAL. liouU 18. 86 ivuhed nun on illsideH like to te wiDd o luind .) itants, S. W. le fish- ous for kens." Quite le fogs i here-, J afford water, lericans ' direct, hip was uth and nguished (tailed is ny of the d in har- he deep, oea may g in the base to mirable nearly of the ^ 700 ft., iom 300 Irth Mi. until a a bar, lis Basin Moun- |cully to places, the An- tre about Scotia. it beau< lusband- man, a land of fUir meadows, orchardH, and Tines It was not until we had travelled over the rest of the country that we saw the appropriateness of the designation. The i>xplanation is, that not ho much is required of a garden here as in some other parts of the world." Soon after leaving Digby, Bear Island is seen in-shore on the r., in front of the little port of Bear Jiii'er (inn), which has a foundry, tanneries, and saw-mills. Iron and gold are found in the vicinity, atid lumber and cord- wood are exported hence to the United States and the West Indies. A few »:;".Ic> beyond, and also on the S. shore, is th.e hamlet of Clement sport (two inns), wh?re large iron-works were formerly established, in connectio i with the ore-beds to the S. Roads lead thence to the S. W. in 10-12 M. to the romantic districts of the Blue Mts. and the upper Liverpool Lakes (see Route 27), at whose entrance is the rural village of Clement svale. 8-10 M. beyond Digby the steamer passes Goat Island, of which Lescarbot writes, in Les Muses de la Nouvelle France (1609) : *' Adieu mon doux pi ^ !■' V' 86 Route 18. ANNAPOLIS ROYAL. I ; last occupations was that cf the Riflo Brigade, hi 1850; but the post was abandoned soon after, on account of the numerous and successful deser- tions which thinned the ranks of the garrison. Hut wlien Canada passed into a state of semi-independence in 1867, this fortress was one of the few domains reserved to the British Crown. Die inner fort is entered by an ancient archway which fronts towards the Basin, giving passage to the parade-ground, on wliich are tlie quaint old Kngiish barracks, with steep roofs and great chimneys. In the S. E. bastion is tlie magazine, with a vaulted roof of masonry, near which are tlie foun'' ns of the French barracks. From the parapet on tills side are ovei \ the landward out- works and the lines of tlie old Hessian and Waldecker settlements towards Clementsport. On the hillside beyond the marsh is seen an ancient house of the era of the French occupation, the only one now standing in the val- ley. In the bastion towards the river is a vaulted room, whence a passage leads down to the French garrison-wharf; but the arched way has fallen in, and the wharf is now but a shapeless pile of stones. The * view from this angle of the works is very beautiful, including the villages of Annapo- lis Royal and Granville, the sombre heights of the North and South Mts., and the Basin for many miles, with Goat Island in the distance. The road which leads by the fortress passes the old garrison cemetery, St. Luke's Church, the court-house and county academy, and many quaint and antiquated mansions. A ferry crosses to Granville, a little shipbuilding village, with 700 inhabitants. A road leads hence across tlie North Mt. in 4-5 M., to Hillshurn and Leitchjield, " Annapolis Roj'al is a picturesque little town, almost surrounded by water, at the head of the Annapolis Basin On both sides of the Basin rise mountains whose background of vegetation lends a peculiar charm to the landscape. Fruit of almost every kind common to this continent may be found here in its season. East- ward you may proceed by railway to the scene of Longfellow's great poem of ' Evange- line ' through a perpetual scene of orchards, dike lands, and viHages, skirted on both sides by dreamy mountains, till you reach the grand expanse of the Basin of Minas, with Blomidon, the abode of sea- nymphs, holding eternal guard in the distance. Annapolis Royal and Granville Ferry offer special sanitary privileges to the weary, the invalid, and the pleasure-seeker ; bathing, trouting, hunting, boat- ing, picnicking, are all enjoyed in turn From the mountain slopes, whither parties go for a day's enjoyment, the prospect is unrivalled, and the air invigorating. The thermometer rarely rises above 90 degrees in the day, while the night air is cool enough for blankets and light overcoats. A moonlight excursion on the Basin id something to reiueuibur for a lifetiiiie." The Basin of Annapolis was first entered in 1604 by De Monts's fleet, exploring the shores of Acadie ; and the beauty of the scene so impressed the Baron de Pou- trincourt that he secured a grant here, and named it Port Royal. After the failure of the colony at St. Croix Island, the people moved to this point, bringing all their stores and supplies, and settled on the N. side of the river. In July, 1606, Lescarboi and another company of Frenchmen joined the new settlement, and conducted improvements of the land, while Poutrincourt and Champlain explored the Massachusetts coast 400 Indians had been gathered by the sagamore Member- tou in a stockaded village near the fort, and all went on well and favorably until De Monts'a grant was annulled by the King of France, and then the colony was aban- doned. Foui with a from I when 1 bertou cannon followe Pout take ou but wei earth, « under i they lei and fou gin Ian s their fl( out in 1 in the f( killed, ti It is a Port Ro Fmnce ii infinite 1 the peac< Bet wet and was Kirk, wi( de Razillj wards bei naval offl Laliave (.* Tour, am begin th( frojn Port La Tour, In 1654 Rochelle, Vendjiiie, same year habitants , By the ( live-stock captured 1 ld90 the 1 Sir VVilliai few month the Cheva wrote : * than a litt by the acci England. to truck fo 2 regiment An attemp vigilance a forced to n chusetts at by the Bar Americans made arrar Island, "wi pirates." In the au Aam, Star, 1 ANNAPOLIS ROYAL. liuKtC IS. 87 Pour years later the brave Baron de Poutrincourt left his e^tateH in Champagne, with a deep car^o of HUpplie.s, descemleii i\w riverw Auhe and Heine, and Hailed out from Dieppe (Feb. 2fi, llilO) On arriving at Port Royal, ever} thing svas found aa when left: and tlie work of pro.selyting the Indians wiw iit onee «Mitered on. Meui- bertou and hi.s tribe wore converteil, Imptized, and ftuisted, amid sjilutes from the cannon and the chanting of the Te Deum ; and numerouH other forest-clann soon followed the sunie course. Poutrincourt was a (iallican Catholic, and h;itod the Jesuits, but w.-is forced to take out two of tlicni to his new domain. Tliey lussunied a high authority tliere, but were sternly rebuked by the Baron, who said, " It is my part to rule you on earth, and yours only to guide nie to lieuven." They threatened to lay Port Uoyal under interdict ; and Poutrincourt's son and succe.ssor so greatly resented this that they left the colony on a mission ship sent out hy the Marchioness de Ouercheville, and founded St. Sauveur, on the island of Mount Desert. In 1«)13, after tl»e Vir- ginians under Capt. Argall had destroyed St. Sauveur, tlie vengeful Jesuits piloted their fleet to Port Uoyal, which wa,s completely demolished. Poutrincourt came out in 1014 only to find his colony in ruins, and tlie remnant of the i)eople wandering in the forest ; and was so disheartened that he i*eturned to France, where he waa killed, the next year, in the battle of Mcry-sur-Seine. It is a memorable fact that these attacks of the Virginians on Mount Desert and Port Royal were tlie very commencement of the wars between (Jreat liritain and Friince in North America, " which scarcely ever entirely ceitsed until, at the cost of infinite blood and treasure, France was stripped of all her possessions in America by the peace of 1763." Between 1620 and 1630 an ephemeral Scottish colony was located at Port Royal, and was succeeded by the French, in 1628 the place was captured by Sir David Kirk, with an English fleet, and was left in ruins. In 1634 it was uranted to Claude de Razilly, " Seigneur de ilaziily, dea Eaux Mesles et Cuon, en Anjou," who after- wards became conmiandant of Oleron and vice-admiral of France. He was a bold naval officer, related to Cardinal Richelieu ; and his brother Isaac commanded at Lahave (see Route 25). His lieutenants were D'Aulnay Charnisay and Charles de la Tour, and he transferred all his Acadian estates to the former, in 1642, aitjsr which beg in the feudal wars between those two nobles (see page ID). Several fleets .sailed from Port Royal to attack I^Tour, at St. John; and a Boston fleet, in alliance with La Tour, assailed Port Royal. In 1654 the town was under the rule of Kmmanuel le Borgne, a merchant of La Rochelle, who had succeeded to D'Aulnay "s estates, by the aid of Cesar, Duke of Vendjnie, on account of debts due to him from t»ie Acadian lord. Later in the same year the fortress was taken by a fleet sent out by Oliver Cromwell, but the in- habitants of the valley were not disturbed. By the census of 1671 there were 361 souls at Port Royal, with over 1,000 head of live-stock and 364 acres of cultivated land In 1684 the fishing-fleet of the port was captured by English " corsairs " ; and in 1686 there were 622 souls in the town. In 1(J90 the fort contained 18 cannon and 86 soldiers, and was taken and pillaged by Sir William Phipps, who sailed from Boston with 3 war-vessels and 70iO men. A few months later it was plundered by corsairs from the \Vest Indies, and in 1691 the Chevalier de Villebon took the fort in the name of France. Baron La Ilontan wrote: " Port Royal, the capital, or the only city of Acadia, is in effect no more than a little paltry town that is somewhat enlarged since the war broke out in 1(389 by the accession of the inhabitants that lived near Boston, the metropolitan of New England. It subsists upon the traffic of the skins which the savages bring thither to truck for European goods.-' In the summer of 1707 the fortress was attacked by 2 regiments and a small fleet, from Boston, and siege operations were conmienced. An attempt at storming the works by night was frustrated by M. de Subercase'a vigilance and the brisk fire of the French artillery, and the besiegers were finally forced to retire with severe loss. A few weeks later a second expedition from Massa- chusetts attacked the works, but after a siege of 15 days their camps were stormed by the Baron de St. Cai^tin and the Chevalier d(; la Boularderic, and the feebly led Americans were driven on board their ships. Subercase then enlarged the fortress, made arrangements to run off slaves from Boston, and planned to capture Rhode Island, "which is inhabited by rich Quakers, and is the resort of rascals and even pirates." In the autumn of 1710 the fVigates Dragon, Chester^ Falmouth^ Leostaffe, Fevers- ham^ Star, and Province, with 20 transports, left Boston and sailed to Port Royi^ i i. I . Hi.; ■m J 88 Route IS. THE ANNAPOLIS VALLEY. There were 2 ro>dnientn from MuKvirliufiettH, 2 from the n'Bt of Now Knglantl, and 1 of Ro.viil Miiriin'H. Afirr thn t'O'ctlon «if iiiortHr-hjittvrh'M, Hi'vrral (la>H wcn> njient in boiiiltartiiiiK thi< fort from tho t1«>(>r ami th«) sh-^c-liiicK, but Ww flrt> fVuni thr ram- {NirtM wii8 kt'pt n}> «t«'atiil.v until tliv pirrisoii w«'n' on tliv vcr^' of HtJirvation ; HuIut- cHHo tlu«n Hurn'iidon'il hJH fon-i-K (lifiH im-n), who wvrv Hhippctl olf to Knitice, and (l»>n. NI<'holw)n chanitcd X\w umw of I'ort Houil to Annai'olis Roval, in honor of Qu«'<>n Anni', tlu'U Hov^'n'i^^n of (Jreat ltri(..ihi In 1711, HO Nt'W-Knnlan ^jcd 1»y the A<'adian> an*l Micniars F«>r n»»arlv40 jvars afterward.*" Annapolis waHallllo^t ah.avH in a stat»> of Kiege, Iwing nu*na«'t>d from time to time )>}' tiie disatfrifcd Acadians and tlieir sava^^e allies. In 1744 the non-eoml»atjint,M were sent to lloston for safety, and in .lidy of that year tlu! fort wju* iM'leauuered hy a lone ( f finati«- Catiiolies under the Ahhe Ijiloutre. J*ivc oompanieH of Massaeliusetts troops t^oon joined tl»e jrarrison, and tiie hesiejrers were reinforeed by Kreneh regulars from Lotdsl)our(;. Tlie sie^e was continued for nearly three mnntiis, hut (tov Masearene siiowed a hold front, and provisions and Mien oaniu in from Hoston. Tlie town was destroyed \i\ tlie artilh-ry of the fort and by Ineendiary sorties, sinee it served toslielter tlie hostile riflemen. Soon after Dnvivier and liftloutn; lia the best in America, and 500,000 barrels are exported \ early, — many of which are sold in the cities of Great Britain. The chief productions of the district are hay, cheese, and live-stock, a large proportion of which is exported. The Halifax train runs out from Annapolis over the lowlands, and takes a course to the N. E., near the old highway. Bridgetown ( 6^ rant/ Central) is the first important station, and is 14 M. from Annapolis, at the head of navigation on the river. It has about 1,500 inhabitants, 4 churches, and a weekly newspaper, and is situated in a district of apple-orcliards and rich pastures. Some manufacturing is dium on the water-power of WILMOT SPRINGS. Rnate 18. 89 I, and 1 '«« Kjicnt hi- riuii- ; HutttT- ce, and xmor of I 11 rook , ;»', iM'iiiK ilt'M. In )onr tlu! ■e. Hvc crs were )r iM'iirly iiid nuMi and by PuvWUt n'd Honie I nrrlvod. «'iiton off ere 1> ing in peace Knr))risfd ^e in the (urdly cx- urntT (see iik'^s they Nith these ;h(! \Vind- se hoauty •omj'cllod TV. of this \nnapolis shun, the lave been lingua gea. cess of a faruiing- t popula- nd kind- |ui; ridges, nd pleas- bey ond s. rica , and of Great k, a large id takes |he head f lurches, )rchards jower of the Annaiiolis River and ilM branches; and the surrounding country is well populated, and is reputed to be one of the hcilthiest dJHtrietH in Nova Scoii.*^. To the S. is HLoody /iroah, where a (h'tacliinent of Nrw-Kn^hmd troops wtts massacred by tlie Kniich and Indians; and roads k>ad up over the Sout.i Mt. into tiie interior, dotted with snuill hainU-ts, inhabited by the descendants of old soldiers. M;iny lar^;e lakes and streams tilled with trout, and pxxl hnnting-f^rouiuls are in this rcf^ion. Panul'm'. (small inn) is a pleasantly situated village of about 400 inhab- itants, with several saw and ^rist mills and taiuu^ries. The princi^ial exports are luml)er and cheese, though there are al,>>o large deposits of mer- chantable granite in the vicinity. A road crosses the North Ml. to Port Williams, 7 M. distant, a tisliing-village of about ;J00 iniiabilants, situated on the Hay of I'undy. The coast is illuiiiinate inland-studded Two-Mile liUke and the Four-Mile I^ake, near which are the romantic Aylesford Lakes. E. and S. E. of the Gaspereaux Lake are the trackless .-olitudes of the far-spreading Bl'te Mtx., amid whose recesses are the lakelets where the Gold River takes its rise. At 20 M. from Kentville the stage enters the Epis<'opal villnge of New Ross (Turner's Hotel), at the crossing of the Dalhousie lload fron> Halifax to Annapolis. Froni this point the stage descends the valley of the Gold River to Chester (see page 127). "^1 WINDSOR. ItouU 18. 91 .1 The Halifax train runs E. from Kentville down the Coniwallis Valley to Port Williams, which is 1^ M. from the village of that name, whence daily stages run to Canning. The next station is Wolfville, from which the Land of Evangeline may most easily be visited (see Route 22). The buildings of Acadia College are peen on the hill to the r. of the track. The Halifax train runs out from Wolfville with the wide expanse of the reclaimed meadows on the 1., beyond which is Cape Blomidim, looming leagues away. In a few minutes the train reaches Grand Pr6, and as it slows up before stopping, the tree is seen (on the 1. about 300 ft. from the track) which marks the site of the ancient Acadian chapel. Beyond Hm'- ton Landing (see page 111) the Gaspereaux is crossed, and the line swings around toward the S. E. At Avonport tiie line reachos the broad Avon River, and runs along its 1. bank to Ilantsport (two inns). This is a large manufacturing and shipbuilding village, where numerous vessels are owned. In the vicinity are quarries of freestone. Steamboats ply be- tween Hantsport, Kingsport, and Parrsboro'. J fount Benson station is near the hill whose off-look Judge Haliburton so highly extols : — " I have seen at diflferent periods of my life a good deal of Europe and much of America; but I have seldom seen anything to be compared with the view of the Basin of Minas and its adjacent landscape, as it presents itself to you on your a.scent of Mount Denson He who travels on this continent, and does not spend a few days on the shores of this beautiful and extraordinary basin, may be said to have missed one of the greatest attractions on this side of the water." The next station is Falmouth, in a reg'on which abounds in gypsum. Back toward Central Falmouth there are prolific orchards of apples. The line now crosses the Avon River on the most costly bridge in the Mari- time Provinces, over the singular tides of this sj'stera of waters. The traveller who passes from Annapolis to Windsor at the hours of low-tide will sympathize with the author of " Baddeck," who says that the Avon '' would have been a charming river if there had been a drop of watt^r in it. I nevt-r knew before how much water adds to a river. Its slimy bottom was quite a ghastly spectacle, an ugly rent in the land that nothing could heal but the friendly returning tide. I should think it would't»e confusing to dwell by a river that runs first one way and then the other and then vanishes altogether." The remarkable tides of this river are also described by Mr. Noble, as follows : The tide was out, " leaving miles of black " (red) " rivor-bottom entirely b.ire, with only a small stream cour.-ing through in a serpentine manner A line of blue water was visible on the northern horizon. After an absence of an hour or so, I loitered back, when, to my surprise, there was a river like the Hudson at Catskill, running up with a powerful current. The high wharf, upon which but a short time before I had stood and surveyed the black, unsightly fields of mud, was now up to its mid- dle In the turbid and whirling stream." Windsor [Dufferin Hotel; Victoria) is a wealthy and cultured town of 3,000 inhabitants, on the promontory between the Avon and St. Croix Rivers. It owns a great amount of shipping, and has iron, cotton, and leather works and shipyards, and gold mines near by. The business streets are dingy and dusty, but the hills command niteresting and extensive views. Vast quantities uf white and blue plaster are shipped to tbe United 92 Route 18. WINDSOR. States for fertilizing the soil and calcining purjwses. Near the end of the railway bridge, on a projecting hill, ' ino Clifton mansion, formerly the home of the genial and witty Thomas C. Haliburto' (born at Windsor in 1797, 13 years a Judge in Nova Scotia, G years an M. P. at London, and died in 1805), the author of "Sam Slick, The Clockmaker," etc. On the knoll over the village are the cumbliiig block-houses and earth- works of Fort Edward^ whence is obtamcd a pretty view down the widen- ing Avon and out over the distant Basin of Minas. About 1 M. from the station, on a hill w^hich overlooks the fine vallev of the Avon and its uncleared mountain-rim, are the plain buildings of King's College, the oldest college now existing in Canada. It was founded in 1788. and chartered by Kinf? George TTI. in 1802. It is under the patronafce of the Archbishop of Canterbury, and is well endowed with scholar- Bhipp, honors, etc. Its offloers i "st belong to the Church of England, thouj^h there are no tests for admission '" students. Many of the most inflnential and distinguished British-Americans ha. been educated here, and " Kinpsmen " are found in all parts of Canada. The college has fi professors and about 40 studentH. There is also a dlTinity school in connection with the college. The Province of Nova Scotia is occupied by 3(3 Christian sects. Of its inhabitants. 56,124 belong to the Anglican Church, and are n,iiii.«tered to by a lord bit^hop, 4 canons, 8 rural deans, and 68 clergymen. There are 1O2,(j01 Catholics, 103,.')89 Pres- byterians, 73,430 Baptists, 41,751 Methodists, and 4,958 Lutherans (census of 1871). The site of Windsor wa« called by the Indians Pisiqitid, " the Junction of the Waters," and the adjacent lowlands were settled at an early day bj the French, who rai.«ed large quantities of wheat and exported it to I5oston. The French .settled in this vicinity about the middle of the 17tli century, but retired far into the interior at the time of the British conquest. Gov. Lawrence issued a proclamation inviting settlers to come in from New England, stating that " 100,000 acres of land had been cultivated and had borne wheat, rye, barley, oats, hemp, fiax. etc., for the last cen- tury without failure." The deserted French haniiets were occupied in 1759-60 by families from Massachusetts and Rhode Island, and their descendants still possess the land. The Rhode-Islanders erected the township of Newport, Massachusetts formed Falmouth, and Windsor was granted to British officers and was fortified in 1759. The broad rich marshes near Windsor had attracted a large Acadian popula- tion, and here was their principal church, whose site is still venerated by the Mic- mac Indians. *' 1 cannot recall a prettier village than this. If you doubt my word, come and see it. Yonder we discern a portion of the Basin of Minas ; around us are the rich meadows of Nova Scotia. Intellect has here placed a crowning college upon a bill; opulence has surrounded it with picturesque villas." (CozziNS.) Another writer iiBs spoken with enthusiasm of WindsorV " wide and beautiful environing mead- ows and the hanging-gardens of mountain-forests on the S and W." The Htiiifax train sweeps along the St. Croix River around Windsor, pass ng (on the r.) the dark buildings of King's College, on a hilltop, with the new chapel in front of their line. The character of the landscape be- gins to change, and to present a striking contrast with the agricultural regions just traversed. ** Indeed, If a man can live on rocks, like a goat, he may settle anywhere between Windsor and Halitax. With the exception of a wild pond or two, we saw nothing but rocks and stunted firs for forty -five miles, a monotony unrelieved by one pic- turesque feature. Then we longed for the ' Garden of Nuva Bcotia,' and understood what is meant by the name." (^VAaNER'S Baddeck.) Beyond Three-Mile Plains the train reaches Ntwpoi'ty near which large •^ 3 ^ \ \.j\ %. i\ a. ^ 4. C 5. L 6. a 6 7. M 8. J\ 10. J^ 11. » ■ nd of the merly the indsor in idon, and etc. ind earth- he widen- M. from f>n and its illege, the It i« under ith pcholar- ind, though nential and rsmen " are to students. ^habitants, rd bit^hop, 4 03,589 Pres- ;U8 of 1871). ction of the French, who rh settled in I the inbrior ion inviting nd had been the last cen- 1759-60 by still possess as^achusetta fortified in ian popula- b> the Mic- coine and , are the rich [upon a hill ; )ther writer )ning mead- Windsor, jUtop, with jdpcttpe be- 'ricultural lere between iw nothing by one pic- understood Ibich large 1. AWSt^ t. Aw i 4. CtuH 6. DmUn, «• caf\ 7. BlUti f . /it, partly by reason of an abflurd stn'tch of naval punctilio. Between this siioal and McNab's Island on one side and tile mainland on the other, is the long and narrow stniit called the Kastern Passage. In 1S62 the Confederate crui-ser Tallahassee was blockmlcil in Halifax Harbor hy a S'lualroii of United-S'^ates frigates. The shallow anoinH. — The Young Men's Christian Association, corner of Gran- ville and i'riiHo Sts. ; the Provincial Library, in the Province (or Parliament) Hnild. ing (open lO to 4); and in the chief hotels. The Ilaiifux. Library is at 197 Hdlis >t. ; and the Citizens' Kiee Library (founded by Chief Justice Sir William Young) i.'< at Argyh^ II;il!. Anrvlo l:^f .and is open from 3 to (5 p M. Tlie Merchants' Kx- chanjre and Reading-Room is on Bedford Row. The Chureh-of- England Institute (LiHrarv and G.ymnasiuui) i:i at 50 Barrington St. Clubs. — The llaiiiax v/lub has an tifgaiit liouse at 155 Ilnl'.is St.; the City Club, Barrington St. ; the Catholic Young Men's Club, Starr St. ((pen from 2 to lo P.M.); the llighlaud, North British, St. George's, Charitable lri."-h, and Germnnia Societies. The Royal Nova-Scotia Yaiht Club has a station at the foot of Hollis St. Ainuseiiieiits. — There is a neat, comfortable, and fairly appointed theatre, ctilled the A«ademy (tf Music ; and Orpheus Hall. In winter, tobogganing on Cita- del Hill and Collins' Field, b.> the Red-Cap and Royal Blue Clubs, etc.; skating at the llink, on Tower St.. and on the N W. Arm and the ponds; curling, by the Curling Club, at their llink ; and sicigh-riditig at Point Pleasant, etc. In summer, good games of cricket and indifferent ba.se-ball playing may be seen on the Garrison Cricket-Ground. But Halifax is chiefly famous for the interest it takes in trials of skill between yachtsmen and oarsmen, and exciting aquatic contests occur fre- quently durit)g the summer. Boats for hire at North Slip and Ferry Slip, and Luke's, Freshwater. The Wanderers' Boat-Club have their boathouse and pier at the foot of Morris St. The station of the Koyal Nova-Scotia Yacht Squadron is at the Royal Engineer Yard, foot of Hollis St. There is capital fishing in the N. W. Arm. Horse-Cars run every 74 minutes from Kichmond, by CanipltcU Road, Lock- man, Barrington, Pleasant, and Inglis Sts, at the entrance to Point-Pleasant Park, Tower Road, Victoria Road, S. Park St., and Spring-Garden lioad to Barrington St., opposite the Academy of Music. Also fiom Bell's Lane on Barrington St. and Spring-Garden Road to South-Park and Inglis Sts. Fare, 5c. Carriages. — For each person, for k M., 15c ; 1 M., 25 o. ; 2 M., 40c. ; 3 M., 50c. If returning in same carriage, half the above rates. For 1-horse carriage, per hour, 75c. ; 2-horse carriage, per hour, S>1 Distances by sea. — Halifax to Portland. 310 M. (26 hrs.) ; Boston, 378 M. (35 hrs.); New York, 542 M (50 hrs.); Baltimore, S«0 M. (76 hrs.); St. John's, N. V, 500 M. (48 hrs.). By rail to St. John. 277 M. ; to Quebec, 678; Montreal, 850; Charlottetown, 97 : I'ortland. 618 ; Boston, 726; New York, 939. JJistaiices from the Post-OfRce to Dockyard, 1 M. ; Wellington Barracks, 1^ ; Richmond, 2; Poors' Asylum, 1; Fort Opilvie, 1.^ : Point Plea.«ant, 2 : N. W. Arm Bridge, 2^. iljiilways. — Intercolonial (Routes 16 and 17); Windsor & Annapolis. Steamships. - The Allan Line, fortnightly f r St. John's. N. F., Queenstown and Liverpool, Norfolk ami Baltimore. Fares : Halifax to Liverpool, iff 76 and .i* 'A'): to Norfolk or Baltimore, $20 and $12. The Furness-Line steamships run between Halifax aud l.ondou, Eng. ; the llansa Line, to Hamburg and Antwerp; the Allan Line, to Glasgow (also); the Red-Cross Line, for New York ($16 or $9), or St. John's, N. F. (iftlS or $9). A steamer runs from Halifax every Tuesday to Sheet Harbor, Canso, Arichat, Port Mulgrave, Port Hawkesbury, Georgetown, and Souris. Steamboats leave for Lunenburg, Mondays and Thursdays; for Prospect, Chester, and Mahone Bay, Wednesdays and Fridays; for Bridgewater. every Mondav and Thursday; for St. Peters (Cape Breton), West Bay, Baddeck, Sydney, and for Channel, Codroy, and Bonne Biy (Newfoundland), fortnightly. The Halifax leaves for Boston every Wednesday at 10 a. m. The Boston, Halifax, and Prince Edward Island steamships leavn every week for Boston. >4t.aR:es leave Halifax daily for Chester, Lunenburg. Liverpool, Shelburne. and Yarmouth (see Rmitc 24 1, dep rting at \. M. Stajies leave at 6 a. m., on Mondny, Wednesday, and Fridav, for Musqnodoboit Harbor, .lerldore. Ship Harbor, Tangier, Sheet Harbor, Beaver Harbor, and Salmon River (see Route 29). m ■ HALIFAX. Rimte 19. 95 Halifax, the capital of Nova Scotia, and the cliief naval station of the British Empire in the Western Hemisphere, has 38,1 00 inliabitants, \vitii7 banks, 5 daily pajiers and 4 weeklies, and ;J8ilnirclies. It (icci;j)ies a pictiircs(iue posiiidn on the K. slope of the peninsnl.-i (of 3,Q00 acres), be- tween the bay, the N. W. Arm, and the Bedford Basin; anl looks out upon a noble harbor, deep, completely sheltered, easily accessible, and hirf^e enough "to contain all the navies of Europe." In 1869 the imports amounted to $* 7,202,504, and the exports to $8,109,548; and in 1870 the assessed valuation of the city was $ 16,753, n2. The city has a copious supply of water, which is drawn from the Chain Lakes, about 12 M. dis- tant, and so high above Halifax that it can force j"cts over the highest houses by its own pressure. There is a fire-alarm telegraph, and an effi- cient fire department, with several steam-engines. The city lies along the shore of the harbor for 2^ M., and is about | M. wide. Its plan is regular, and some of the business streets are well built; but the general character of the houses is that of poor construction and dingy colors. It has, however, been much bettered of late years, owing to the improvements after two great fires, and to the wealth which flowed in during the American civil war, and hai'dly deserves the severe criticism of a recent traveller: " Probably there is not anywhere a more rusty, for- lorn town, and this in spite of its magnificent situation." HoUis and Granville Streets, in the vicinity of the Parliament Buildings, contain the most attractive shops and the headquarters of the great import- ing houses. Many of the buildings in this section are of solid and elegant construction, though the prevalence of dark colors gives a sombre hue to the street lines. The Parliament Building occupies the square between Hollis, George, Granville, and Prince Streets, and is surrounded with trees. In 1830 this plain structure of gray stone was called the finest building in North America, but American architecture has advanced very far since thai time. Opposite the Granville-St. entrance is the Library, occupying a very cosey little hall, and supplied with British and Canadian Avorks on law, history, and science. In the N. part of the building is the plain and commodious hall of the House of Assemblv; and on the S. is the chamber of the Legislative Council, in which are some fine portraits. On the r. and I. of the vice-regal throne are full-length * portraits of King George III. and Queen Charlotte; on the N. wall are Chief Justice Blowers, King William IV., Judge Haliburtnn (see page 92), * Sir Thomas Strange (by Bivjamin West), and Sir Brenton Haliburton. Opposite the throne are Nova Scotia's military heroes, Sir John Inglis (the defender of Lucknow) and Sir VV. Fenwick Williams of Kars. On the S. wall are full-length por- traits of King George II. and Queen CaroFnc. Tlie Dominion Building, nearly opposite tlie Province (or Parliament) Buildmg, on Hollis St., covers an area of 140 by 70 ft. It is of freestone, in y-m t 96 Itoute 19. HALIFAX. an ornate style of architecture, and cost $ 120,000. The lower storj' is occupied by the Post-Office; and the third floor contains the * Provincial Museum, which exhibits preserved birds, iinimuls, reptiles, fossils, min- erals, shells, coins, and specimens of the stones, minerals, coals, and gold ores of Nova Scotia. There are also numerous Indian relics, curiosities from Japan and Ciiina, naval models, and old portraits. Opposite the en- trance is a gilt pyramid, which represents the amount of gold produced in the Province between 18G2 and 1870,-5 tons, 8 cwt., valued sif $3,373,431. Most of this gold has been coined at the U. S. Mint in Phili;- delphia, and is purer and finer than that of California and Montana. On the corner of Granville and Prince vStreots, near the Parliament Building, is the new and stately stone building of the Young Men's Clnis- tian Association, with its reading-rooms and other departments. The massive brownstone house of the Halifax Club is to the S., on Hollis St. The * Citadel covers the summit of the hill upon whose slopes the city is built, and is 250 ft. above the level of the sea. The Citadel is a fortress of the first class, according to the standards of the old school; though of late years the government has bestowed much attention on the works at ^Jeorge's Island, which are more important in a naval point of view. The works wci-c conniieuced by Prince Edward, t\w. Duke of Kent, and the father of Queen "Victoria, who was then Coumiander of tue Forces on tliis titation. lie cin- plojed in the service a larfrc nuii.ber of the Maroons, who had been coiiqutrcd by the British, and were banished from .Ian aJea, and subsequently deported to Sierra Leone. Clianges and additions have been made nearly every year since, until the present immcut;e strougliold has been completed. It is separated from the gla( it; by a deep moat, over whieli are the guns on the numerous bastions. Ihe massive nia- fonry of the walls seems to dify assault, and the extens-ivc barracks within arc suid to be bomb proof. During the years 1873-74 the artillery has been changed, and the previous mixed armament has been to a great degree replaced by muzzle-load- ing Woolwich guns of heavy calibre, adapted for firing the conical Palliser shot with points of chilled iron. The vi.^itor is allowed to walk around the circuit of the ram- parts, and this elevated station affordb a broad view on either side. Perhaps the beet prospect is that from the S E. bastion, overlooking the crowded city on the elopes below; the narrow harbor with its shipjjiug; Dartnouth, sweeping up to- ward Bedford Basin; Fort Clarence, below Dartn.outli, with its dark caseniatr.«; McNab's Island, crowned with batteries and f-hutting in the FKi*tern Passage ; the outer harbor, with its fortified points, and the ocean beyond. Near the jiortal of the citadel is au outer battery of antiquated guns; and at the S. end of the glacis are the extensive barraeks of the Royal Artillery. Other mili- tary quarters are seen on the oppos-ite side of the Citadel. "But if you cast your eyes over yonder magnificent bay, where vcsf els bearinji flags of all nations arc at anchor, and then let your virion sweep past and over the islands to the outlets beyond, where the quiet ocean lies, bordered with fog-bankc that loom ominously at the boundary-lire cf the horizon, you will see a picture of marvellous beauty; for the coast scenery here transcends our own sea-shores, botli in color and outline. And behind us again stretch largo green plains, dotted villi cottages, and bounded with undulating hills, with now and then glimpses ot biuc HALIFAX. Route 19. 97 rn Passage ; tlie water; and a« we walk down Citadel IIlll, we feel half reconciled to Halifax, its quaint mouldy old gables, its soldiers and sailors, its fogs, cnl)s, itoniiy and half- pennv tokens, and all its little, odd, outlandish pvculiaridos "' (I'ozz.:ns.) Lower Water St. borders the luirhor-lVoiit, anroes of the Crimean War. (Major Welsford was killed in the storming of the Redan.) It consists of a small but massive arch of brownstone, standing on a l)n)ad graidte base, and supporting a statue of the British lion. Opposite the cemetery, on Pleasant St., is the Presbyterian Church oi St. Matthew (under the care of the Kev. Mr. I.ain;^'). Above the Cathedral, on the Spring Garden Koad, is the handsome building of the Court House, well situated amid open grounds, near the jail and the capacious drill-sheds. The Public Gardens are on the Spring-Garden Koad, and cover 18 acres, charmingly laid out, Avith pleasant paths, winding ponds, deep shrubber- ies, and a wealtli of rich flowers. A military band plays here Saturday afternoons, and sometimes on sununer evenings, when the Gardens are lighted by electricity. The Wanderers' Athletic-Club grounds are on the side toward the Citadel; the celebrated Camp-Hill Cemetery on the W.; the great Convent of the Sacred Heart, in pleasant grounds, and the Pooi- Ilouse, on theS.; and the splciulid new buildings of Dalhousie College. In this region also the new Chun h-of-Knjiland Cathedral (Bishop Frederick Courtney, late of St. Paul's (Miurch, Boston) is being built. The Government House is a short distance beyond St. Matthew's Church, on Pleasant St., and is the official rei=idence of the Lieutenant- Governor of Nova Scotia. It is a plain and massive old stone building, with projecting wings, and is nearlv surrounded by trees. Farther S , on Morris St., is the Anglican Cathedral of St. Luke, a plain and homely wooden building. Beyond this point are the , . ^tty wooden churches and villas which extend toward Point Pleasant. At the foot of South St. are the Ordnance Grounds, from whopc wharf the lower harbor is ovcrlookeil. About 1,800 ft. distant is George's Island, on whicli is a powerful modern fortress, bearing a heavy armament from which inunen.**e chilled- iron or steel-pointed shot could be hurled against a hostile fleet. This po.sition is the key to the harbor, and converges its fire with that of Fort Clarence, a low but massive casemated work, 1 M. S. E. on the Dartmouth shore, whose guns could sweep the Eastern Pas.sage and the inner harbor. The passage from the outer har- bor is defended by the York Redoubt, near Sandwich Point, by a new line of bat- teries ou the N. W. shore of McNab's lE^land, and by the forts on Point Pleasant. At the corner of Prince and Barrington Sts. is St. Paul's Episcopid Church, a plain and spacious old building (built in 1750), with numerous mural tablets on the inner walls. Dalhomie College and University, near the Public Garden, was founded by the Earl of Dalhousie while he was Governor-General of Canada. Its design was to provide means for the "^ HALIFAX. RouUi JO. 09 lilu-ral ediifutioii of yoiin^ nu'ii who did not wish to ^o (or were debarri'd tniiu f,'oin>;) to Kinj^'s Collej^o, jit VV^iiidyor. Its aiiciont hidls, at Duke and IJarrington Sts., were demolished in 1887. to make room ior the new city buildings. In the summer of 1746 the (jreat French Armada sailed from Brest to conquer the British North-American coast from Virpui.a to Nc>stbutidliiiul It wiis commaiidud liV the Duke d"Anville,.".nd was c()U)post>d of tliu iiiit-df-liattle siiips Trit/tnt, Afleitt, M(ir$ and Alcif/e, ♦34 (Jjuiis eacli ; Mh' NortUiinihrrlnml , CariLon,Ti^re, Leo/uin/, and Hinotvmie, 60 guns eacli ; tlie Diawunt, 6<) ; Mmert^, '.i.)\ Ar^(>nauti\,'2S\\ Prime d' Ormige , "2^ ; tl»e Par/nit, Merture, Pahiu , Uiri)tts, Prrle, and 2'J other fri^jates, witlj 30 transports, carryinj? an army of 3,100 soldiers. D'Anville's orders wtre to "occupy Louisbourg, to reduce Nova Scotia, to destroy Boston, and ravage the coast of New England.*' Tlie Armada wjis dispersed, however, iiy a succession of unparalleled and disastrous storms, and D'Anville reached Chebucto May (Halifax) on Sept. 10, with only 2 ships of the line and a few transports. Six days litter the unfortunate Duke died of apoplexy, induced by grief and distress on account of the disasters which his enterprise had sufTered. The Vicc-Admiral D'Estournelie com- niitt«^d suicide a few dajs later. Some other vessels now arrived here, and innnenso barracks were erected along the Bedford Basin. 1,200 men had died from scurvy ou the outward voyage, and the camps were soon turned into hospitals. Over 1,000 French soldiers and 2 - 300 Micmac Indians died around the Bawin and were buried near its quiet waters. Oct. 13, the French lleet, numbering 5 ships of the lino and 25 frigates and transports, sailed from Halifax, iiitcnding to attack Annapolis Uoyal ; but another terrible storm arose, while the vessels wi re oiT t'apc Sable, and scattered the remains of the Armada in such wide confusion that they were obliged to retire from the .\merican waters. The Indians called Halifax harbor Chebucto, meaning "the chief haven," and the French named it La Bale Saine, "on account of the .silubrity of the air." In the year 1748 the British Lords of Trale, incited by the people of Massachu- setts, determined to found a city on the coast of Nova Scotia, partly iu prospect of couunercial advantages, and partly to keep the Acadians in check. I*arii:iment voted £40,(KX) for this purpose; and on June 21, 1749, a tieet of 13 transports and the sloop-of-war Sphinx arrived in the designated harbor, bearing 2,37u colo- nists (of whom over 1,500 were men). The city was liid out in July, and wius named in honor of George Montagu, Earl of llulifax, the head of the Lords of Trade. The Acadians and the Indians soon sent in their submi.■;^ion ; but in 1751 the suburb of Dartmouth was attacked atnight by the latter, and many of its citizens were massacred. 500 Oennans settled hero in 1751-52, but it was found diiTicult to preserve the col- ony, since so many of its citizens passed over to the New-England Provinces. The great fleets and armies of Loudon and Wolfe concentrated here before advancing against Louisbourg and Quebec ; and the city afterwards grew in importance as a naval sta- tion. Representative government was established in 175S, and the Parliament of 1770 remained in session for 14 years, while Halifax was made one of the chief sta- tions wlience the royal forces were directed upon the insurgent American colonies. After tlie close of the Revolutionary War, many thousands of exiled Loyalists took refuge here ; and the wooden walls and towers with which tlie city had been forti- fied were replaced with more formid.ible defences by Prince Ed>vard. The ancient pilisade-wall includcul the space betwecMi the present Salter, Barring- ton, and Jacob Streets, and the harbor ; and its citadel was the small Governmeat House, ou the site of the present Parliament Building, which was surrounded witu hogsheads filled with sand, over wliich light cannons were displayed. The growth of Halifax during tlie present ceatury has been very slow, in view of its great commerci.il advantages and po.^sibilities. The presence of large bodies of troops, and the semi-military regime of a girrison-town, have hatl a certain effect iu (leiideuing the energy of the citizens. Great sums of money were, liowever, made here during the American civil war, when the symi)athies of the llaligoniaus were warmly enlisted iu favor of the revolted States, and many blockade-runners sailed hence to reap rich harvests in the Southern i)orts. The cessation of the war put a stop to this lucrative trade ; but it is now hoped that the completion of t le Inter- colonial Railway to St. John and Quebec will greatly benefit Halifax. There is a rivalry between St. John and Halifax which resembles that between Chicago and St. Luui^, and leads to similar journalistic tournaments. St. John claims that she ba.s I H ] ■ ■ ■ I .1 I ,^--'-H 100 Routed THE ENVIRONS OF HALIFAX. a flrst-clara hotel and a theatre, which Halifax has not ; and the NovarScotian city answers, in return, that she has the best cricket-club and the champion oarsman of America. Sir William Fenwick Williams, of Kars, Bart., K. C. B., D. C. L., was born at Ilali- fax in 1800. Atler serving in Coylou, Turkey, and Persia, he instructed the Moslem artillery, and fortified the city of Kars. Hi re he was besieged by the Rut^sians, under Gen. Mouravielf. He defeated the enemy near the city, but was forced to surrender after a heroic defence of six months, being a sacrifice to British diplomacy. He was afterwards Commander of the Forces in Canada. Admiral Sir Provo Wallis was born at Halifax in 1791, and was early engaged in the great battle between the Cleopatra, 32, and the French ViUe de Milan, 46. He afterwards served on the i'urieitx, the Glnirr,a,nd the Shannon, to whose command he succeeded after the buttle with the Chesapeake. 20. The Environs of Halifax. The favorite drive from Halifax is to tlie Fimr-Mik House, and along the shores of the * Bedford Basin. This noble sheet of wutcr is 6 M. long and 1-3 M. wide, with from 8 to 36 fathoms of depth. It is entered by way of the Narrows, a passage 2(^-3 M. long and ^ M. v.ido, leading from Halifax Harbor. It is bordered on all sidc^ by bold hills 200-330 ft. iii height, between which are 10 square miles of set-nvo anchoring-gi-omid. The village of Bedford is on the W. slioro, and has several summer hotels (Bellevue, Seaview, etc.). The steamer Golinh leaves Halifax for Bedford at 11 A. M. and 2 p. m. daily. During the summer the light vessels of the Royal Halifax Yacht Club are seen in the Basin daily ; and exciting rowing- matches sometimes come off near the Four-!Mile House. Along the shores of the Bedford Basin were the n.ournful canif);; and hospitab of the French Armada, in 1740, and 1,300 men were buiii ;1 there Tiicir rcmainn wore found by subtoquen) pcttlors. The firt;t iwrmanent colonies along these shores were made by Massachusetts Loyalists in 1784. Hammond'^s Pla'nxs arc 7 M. W. of Bedford, and were settled in 1815 by Blavcs brought away fVom the shores of Maryland and Vir,";inia by tie Biiti: h flcctr^. Thii is, like the other villages of freed blacks throughont the Provi.-.c o, dirt;,- and dila] i- dated to the last degree. To the N. W. is the Pockwock Lake, 4 BI. long, with di- versified shores, and abounding in trout. *' The road to Point Pleasant is a favorite promenade in the long Acadian twilights. Midway between the city and the Point lies ' Kissing Bridge,' which the Halifax maidens sometimes i)ass over. Who gathers toll nobody knows, but — " Point Pleasant projects between tli( larbor and the N. W. Arm, and is covered with pretty groves of evergreen trees, threaded by narrow roads, and now laid out for a public park. The principal fortification is Fort Ocjilvie, a garrisoned post, wlioso artillery commands the channel. A short distance t> the W. is the antiquated structure called W\c Prince of Wahs's Tower, from which fine views are aUbrded. The Puint Plcnsaiit BatUry is near the water's edge, and is intended to sweep the outer passage. The Northwest Arm is 4 M. long and i M. wide, and is a river-liko inlet, which runs N. W. from the harbor to witliin 2 M. of the Bedford Basin. DARTMOUTH. Route SI. 101 Its shores are h'gh and picturesque, and on tlie Halifax side are several fine mansi )ns, surrounded by ornamental fi;roun(ls. In the upper part of the Arm is Melville /slaml, where Amerii-an prisoners were kept during the War of 1812. Fergus(m's Cove is a picturesque«k'illage on the N. W. Arm, iidiabited chiefly by fishermen and pilots. The Mapltwood is a new and i)leasant summer-resort, on the Northwest Arm. riic steamer Micmnc makes regular trips durinj^ the summer up the N. W. Ann, and to McNub^s hland^ which is 3 M. lontj, and has a sum- mer hotel and some heuvv military works, with Meagher's Ikach and the Military Range. On Lawler's Island is the Quarantine Hospital. The fortress on George's Island is the key of the harbor. Dartmouth {Acadian House) is situated on the harbor, opposite the city of Halifax, to which a steam ferry-boat makes frequent trips. It has sev- eral pretty villas belonging to Halifax merchants; Pud at about ^ M. from the village is the spacious and imposing building of the Mount Hope Asylum for the Insane, a long, castellated granite building which overlooks the harbor. Dartmouth has 6,000 inhabitants and 5 churches, and derives prosperity from the working of several foundries and steam-tanneries. It is also the seat of the Chebucto Marine Railway. This town was founded in 1750, but was soon afterwards destroyed, with some of its people, by the Inilans. In 1784 it was reoccupied by men of Nantuckt.v who preferred royalism to republicanism. The Montague Gold-Mines are 4 M. from Dartmouth, and have yielded in f)aying quantities. Cow Bay i^ii few miles S. K. of Dartmouth, and is much v sited in summer, on account of its fine marine scenery and the facilities for liathing. The Dartmouth Lakes com- mence within 1 M. of the town, and were fonnerlv a favorite resort of sportsmen, but are now nearly fished out. ■4 •* * r - M ■'i':.\ 'v',;i i -'■ r. 21. The Basin of Minas.— Halifisa to St. John. Halifiix to Windsor, ste Rout«- iS (in leveisf). The st> limbo it loutt^ from U'lndsor to St. John in here described. Steamboftts ply tetwi't'D Kiuusp'Tf, .laiitsport, aud I'ansboro'. As the steamer moves out from her wharf at Windsor, a pleasant view is allorded of the old college town astern, with the farming village of Fal- nmiith on the I. and shipbuilding Newport on the r., hoyond the mouth of the St. Croix River. The shores are high and ridgy, and the mouth of til.' Kennetcook River is passed (on the r. ) about f* M. below Windsor. 2-3 M. below is Hnntsport (1. bank), a thriving toarino village opposite the niunth of the Cockmigon River. On Horton Blnf!" (1. hank) is a light- house which sustains a powerful fixed white light, visible for 20 M., and lieyond this point the steamer enters the * Basin of Minas. On the 1. are the low ridges of L(»ng Island and Hoot Island, rising on the margin of a wide and verdant meadow. The meadow is Orand Pr^, the land of Evangeline (see Route 22). Mile after mile the fertile plains of Cornwallis M 102 Route 21. CAPE BLOMIDON. open on the 1., bounded by the Horton hills nnd the dark line of the North Mt. In advance is the bold and clear-ont outline of Cape Hlomidoa, brooding over the water, and on the r. aro the low but well-defined blud's of Chiiirify rich in ffvpsuni and linicstone. It is about 22 M. from the mouth of the Avon to I*arrsboro', and the coiu'se of the steamer continu- ally approaches lUdniidon. Cai)« Dloinldoii is ii vjist prcripioc of n d saiHlston(> of the Trinssic orn, with ptroii); iiiarkH of volninir iK-tion. " Tli»' dark luisaltic wall, rovt'icd with thick wc ods, th«> t«'rra<<' of anivj^hiloid, with a luxuriant growth of lifjht-j^n'fii nhnihs and Noung irt'i's tliat rapidly sprinji upon its rich and moist surliicu, tlui pwcipiic of hrif^ht red Nuidstonc, always clean and fresh, and contrasting tttrongly with the trap above, .... constitute a coUibination of forms and colors equally strikiufj, if fieu ill tlic distiiiiec from the hiils of Ilortoc or Parrshoro", or more ii(>arly from t'ae sea or the stony beach at its base. IMoii i Ion is a scene never to 1 e forfjottcu liy a traveller who has wandered around its chores or damlerod on its giddx preci- pices." Tlio cape is aliout HTll ft. hi^h.and presents an interesting sight when its dark-red summit is pwring above the white sea-fogs, ^'ir William L.>ell, tliutmi- nent Britisli geologist, made a careful study of tlic phenomena of this vicinity. The Indian legend says tliat ]>lomidon was made by tlie divine (Jlooscap, who broke the great bcaver-dani off this sliore and swung its end around into its present position. Afterwards lie crossed to tlie new-made eapo and strewed its slopes with tae ginuH tliat arc found tlicre to-day, carrying tlience a set of rare ornaments for his ancient and mysterious lemalo comi)aiiion. The beicfuent eliief brctke away tlio beavcr-dani because it was Hooding all the Cornwallis Valley, and in liis conliict with the (3roat lU-avcr he threw at him Iiuge masses of rock and cartli, wliich are the present Five Islands. \V. of Vtkoiiinirhfedi (lUomidon) the end of the dam swept around and beciune Pleesun (Cape i^plit). As Blomidon is left on the port beam, the steanu>r hurries across tli« rapid currents of the outlet of the Basin. In front is seen the white vil- hige of I'arrsboro', backed by the dark inululutions of the Cobequid Mts. Just before reachiiiix I'arrsboro' the ves.xel approaches and passes Pai'- tridf/e Jslond (on the 1.), a singular jjisuhited hill 260 ft. high, and con- nected w th the mainland at low tide by a narrow beach. Partridge Island was the Piiloicer/i Minirffoo of the Micmacs, and was a favorite location for legends of Ulooscap. On liis last great .journ»'y trom Newfoundland by Pictou through Acadia and into tlie unknown West, lie built a grand road from Fort Cumberland to this shon> for the u.«e of his weary coinitanions. This minicii- lously firmed ridge is now occupied by the post-n)ad to the N. W., and is called by the Indians (hcnuikioi (the causeway). At Partridge Island (ilooscap iiad ids cel- ebnited revel with the suiH'rnatural Kit-poos-<>-jig-uiH)w, the deliverer of all op- pressed, who was taken out alive from his motluM' (slain by a giiintl, was thrown into a well, and, being miraculously preserved there, cane forth in due time to fullil his high duty to men. These marvellous friemls wenr out on the Hasin in a stone canoe to fish by torchlight, and, after cruising over the dark waters for some time, speared a monstrous whale. They tossed him into the canoe " as though \w were ii trout,'* and made for tlie shore, where, in their brotlierly feast, the whule was en- tirely devoured. Parrsboro' (two iinis) is prettily situated at the mouth of a small river, nnd under the shelter of Partridge Island. It ha'^ aoout 2,000 inhabitant-, with five churches, and is engaged in the lumber-trade. The beauty of the situat on ami the views, together with the sporting facilities in the back-country, have made Parrsboro' a jileasure resort of considerable re- pute, and the neat hotel called the Summer House is well patronized. This is one of the best points from which to enter the fine hunting and- fishing PARRHBORO'. Route '^l. 1 03 districts of Cumberland County, and guides and outfits may be secured. There are (5 boanlin^-liouses here, and 2 at Partridge Island. The railroad fniiii Parrsboro' to Spriiig-llill Junction {'-Vl M.), un the Inlerc(»lonial line, runs through the best scenery of the Cobequid Mts. " Parrsboro' enjoys more than Its Hhare of t)roafl, pravclly beacli, overhunfr with rliftotl antl woody hkiirH. One fresh from the dead walls of a ^reat city would l«> de- ij^^lited with the sylvan shores of I'arrshoro', The l»ea<-h, with all its hn;adth, a nririu'le of pebbly beauty, slants steeply t(i t\\v surf, wbicli is now rollinj; np in eurU iii)r clouds of jrreen and white. Here we turn westwanl iiih) the ^c^■«■at bay it>elf, jfoiiiir with a tide that rushes like a niij^lity river toward a cataract, whirling, boil- jii^r, ttreiikiiiK in l)alf-nioons of crispy foam." (L. I>. Noiii,!';.) " Pleasant I'arrsboro', with its fjreen hills, neat cottu^ce.-, and slopinj; shores laved bv the .>-ea when the tide is full, but weariuK quite a dillerent aspect when the tide H()es out ; for then it is left perched thirty feet iiigh uiion a red clay blulT. and the lisliini^-boats which were afloat before are careened upon their beam ends, hij^h and dry out of water. The lon^ massive pier at which the stwunboat lately landed, lifts up its naked bulk of tree-nailed lo^s, reeking with \i. -en oo/ieand sea-weed ; and a lii);h conical island which constitutes the chief feature of the landscape is trans- formed into a bold promontory, connected with the uiuinlund by a huge ridge of brick-red clay." (Hallock.) Gentlemen who are interested in geological studic.iwill have a nirerhancetoniake collections about l*arrsboro' and the shores of Minas The most favorable time is when the blulfs have been cracked and scaled l>y recent frosts ; or just afhu' the close of the winter, when nun'li fresh lichris is found at the foot of the dill's. Among the minerals on I'artriilge Island are: analcime, apophyllite, anieth.>>t, agate, apatite, calcite (at)undant, in yellow crystals), ehabazite, chalcedony, eafs-eu?, gypsum, hematite, heulanditc;, magnetite, stilbite (very al)unilant), jitsper, cacholong, opal, semi-opal, and gold-beiring (piart/.. About CajH! IJlomidon are found analcime, agate, amethyst, apophyllit^r calcite, chalce noble salt-water lake to the E. Minas is either an English modification or the Spanish equivalent thereof Cape d'Or was granted to the Duke of Chandos many years ago, but he did not continue the mining operations. After leaving Parrsboro' the steamer runs W. through the passage be- tween Cape Blomidon and Cape Sharp, which is 3^ M. wide, and is swept by the tide at the rate of 6-8 knots an hour. On the r. the ravines of Diligent River and Fox River break the iron-bound coasts of Curaberlind County; and on the 1. is a remarkable promontory, 7 M. long and 1 M. wide, with an altitude of 400 feet, running W. from Blomidon between the channel and the semicircular bight of Scotsman's Bay. Cape Split 18 the end of this sea-dividing mountain, bevond which the S shores fall suddenly away, and the steamer enters the Minas Channel. 12 j\I. beyond Cape Split, Spencer's Island and Cape Spencer are passed on the N., beyond which are the massive elites of Cape d'Or. On the 1. are the unvarying ridges of the North Mt., with obscure fishing-hamlets along the shore. To the N. the frowning mass of Ca.j>e Chujnecto is seen; and the course passes within sight of the lofty and lonely rock of hh Haute, which is 7 M. from the nearest shore. It is 1^ M. long and 350 ft. higli, and is exactly intersected by the parallel of 65 W. from Greenwich. The steamer now passes down over the o])en waters of the Bay of Fundy. St John is about 62 nautical miles from Is-le Haute, in a straight line, ami is a little N. of W. from that point, but the exigencies of navigation re- quire a course considerably longer and more southerly. This portion of the route is usually traversed at night, and soon after passing the powerful first-class red revolving-light on Cape Sptncer('S,ew Brunswick), the steamer runs in by the Partridge-Island liglit, and enters the luirbor of St. John about the break of day. St. John, see page 15. The Basin of Minas. The 8*-eamer leaves Parrsboro" daily, for the villages on the N. ani E. shores of the Basin of Minas. As the times of her departure are very irregular, owing to the necessity of following the tide, and her landings vary according to cir- cum-tancos, the I'ollowing account relates to the lino of th(> coast rather than to her route. Siie is announced to call at I'arrsboro', Londonderry, Muitland, Kiugsport, SuuHuerville, and Windsor. Soon after leaving Parrsboro', Frazer's Head is passed on the 1., with its cliffs elevated nearly 400 feet above the water. About 15 M- E. of BASIN OF MINAS. Route 21. 105 Parrsboro' are the remarkable insulated peaks of the *Five Islands, the chief of which is 350 ft. high, rising from the waters of the Basin. On tha adjacent shore is the village of Five Islands, occupying a very picturesque position, and containing 600 inhabitants. In this vicinity are found iron, copper, and plumbago, and white-lead is extracted in considerable quan- tities from minerals mined among the hills. Marble was formerly produced here, but the quarries are now abandoned. The massve ridg(3 variously known as Mt. Gerrish, St. Peter's Mt-, and R(m1 Head, looms over the vil- la"'e to a height of 500 ft., having a singularly bold and alpine character for so small an elevation. On its lower slopes are found pockets containing fine barytes, of w^hich large quantities are sent to the United States. A mass of over 150 pounds' weight was sent from this place to the Paris Ex- position of 1867. A few miles W. of the village are the falls on the North River, which are 90 ft. high; and to the N. is the wild and picturesque scenerv of the Cobequid Mts. Stages run from Londonderry Station to Five Islands, which is indeed one of the loveliest spots in Canada. The sca-bcach is magnificent, and tlie facilities for bathing and boating ex- cellent. Broderick's Hotel commands tine finest part of the shore. " Before them lay the outlines of Five Islands, rising beautifully out of the wat«r between them and the mainland The two more distant were rounded and well wooded; the third, which was midway among the group, had lofty, precipitous Biiles,and the summit was dome-shaped; the fourth was like a table, rising with perpendicular sides to the height of 200 ft., with a flat, level surface above, which was all overgrown with fi>rest trees. The last, and nearest of the group, was by far the most singular. It was a bare rock which rose irregularly from the sea, termi- nating at one end in a peak which rose about 200 ft. in the air It resembled, more than anything else, a vast cathedral rising out of the sea, the chief mass of the roik corresponding with the main part of the cathedral, while the tower and spire wore there in all their majesty. For this cause the rock has received the name of Pinnacle Island At its base they saw the white foam of breaking surf; while far on high around its lofty, tempest-beaten summit, they saw myriads of sea-gulls- Oiithering in gr< at white clouds about this place, they sported and chased one an- other ; they sci amed and uttered their shrill yells, which sounded afar over the sea." (DeMu.L£.) 10 M. beyond these islands the steamer passes the lofty and far-project- ing peninsula of Economy^ Point, and enters the Cobequid Bay (which ascends to Truro, a distance of 36 M.). After touching at Londonderry, on the N. shore, the steamer crosses the bay to Maithind (two inns), a busy and prosperous shipbuilding village at the mouth of the Shubenacadie River (see page 82). The S. shore of the Basin of Minas is lined with bluffs 100- 180 ft. high, but is far less imposing than the N. shore Noel is about 15 M. W. of M:utland, and is situated on a pretty little bay between Noel Head and Uiu'nt-Coat Head. It has 300 inhabitants, and produces the mineral called terra alba, used in bleaching cottons. It is not found elsewhere in Amer- ica. After leaving Noel Bay and passing the lighthouse on Burnt-Coat ' Economfi is derived from the lodtan name Kenoinec, which was applied to the lame place, and means " Sandy Point." 6* m ■k I :t - ' 1 *' V i >:i 1 ' '«■; . ■f * 106 Route 21. BASIN OF MINAS. fi P Head, the trend of the coast is follov/ed to the S. W. for about 20 M. to Walton^ a villaf^e of 600 inhabitants, at the mouth of the La Tete River. Many thousand tons of gypsum and plaster of Paris (calcined gypsum) are annually shipped from this port to the United States. Immense quantities are exported also from the coasts of Chinrie^ which extend from Walton S. W. to the mouth of the Avon River. The whole back country is com- posed of limestone soil and gypsum-beds, whose mining and shipment form an industry of increasing importance. Beyond the Chivirie coast the steamer ascends the Avon River to Windsor. The Basin of Minas was the favorite home of Gi.ooscap, the Hiawatha of the Mic- macs, whose traditions describe him as an envoy from the Great Spirit, who had the form and habits of humanity, but was exalted above all peril and sickness and derth. He dwelt apart and above, in a great wigwam, and was attended by an old woman and a beautiful youth, and " was never very far from any one of them," who re- ceive.d his counsels His power was unbounded and supernatural, and was wielded against the enchantments of the magicians, while his wisdom taught the Indians how to hunt and fish, to heal diseases, and to build wigwams and canoes. lie named the constellations in the heavens, and n)any of the chief points on the Acadian shores. The Basin of Minas was his beaver-pond ; Cape Split was the bulwark of the dam ; and Spencer's Island is his overturned kettle. He controlled the ele- ments, and by his magic wand led the caribou and the bear to his throne. The allied powers of evil advanced with immense hosts to overthrow his great wigwam and break his power ; but he extinguished their camp-fires by night and summoned the spirits of the frost by wh )8e endeavors the land was visited by an intense cold, and the hostile armies were frozen in the forest. On the aiiproach of the English he turned his huge hunting-dogs into stor and then passed away ; but will return again, right Spencer's Island, call the dofe to life, and once more dispense his royal hospitality on the Minas shores. ♦* Now the ways of beasts and men waxed evil, and they greatly vexed Glooscap, and at length he could no longer endure them ; and h(! made a rich feast by the shore of the great lake (Minas). All the beasts came to it : and when the feast wjis over, he got into a big canoe, he and his uncle, the Great Turtle, and they went away over the big lake, and the beasts looked after them till they saw them no more. And after they ceased to see them, they still heard their voices as they sang, but the sounds grew fainter and fainter in the distance, and at last they wholly diid away ; and then deep silence fell on them all, and a great marvel came to pass, and the beasts who had till now spoken but one language no longer were able to understand each other, and they all fled away, each his own way, and never again have they met together in council. Until the day when Glooscap shall return to restore the Golden Age, and make men and animals dwell once more together in amity and peace, all Nature mourns. The tradition states that on his departure from Acadia the great snowy owl retired to the deep forests to return no more until he could come to welcome Glooscap ; and in those sylvan depths the owls, even yet, repeat to the night, ' Koo koo skoos! Koo kooskoosi ' which is to say, in the In- dian tongue, ' 0, I am sorry I O, I am sorry I ' And the loons, who had been the huntsmen of Glooscap, go restlessly up and down through the world, seeking vainly for their master, whom they cannot find, and wailing sadly because they find him not" \ I p JVt i L^ m. TFl TU£ h out 20 M. to fi Tete River. gypsum ) are ise quiintities from Walton Luitry is com- nd shipment nrie coast the tha of the Mic- it, who had the aess and derth. f an old woman them," who re- nd was wielded jht the Indians id canoes. He on the Acadian the bulwark of trolled the ele- is throne. The s great wigwam and summoned m intense cold, f the English he but will return spense his rojal vexed GlooPcap, ch feast by the jn the feast was and thev went y saw them no es as they santj, hey wholly died 1 came to pass, er were able to nd never again shall return to ore together in n his departure n no more until ! owls, even yet, say, in the In- o had been the , seeking vainly Q they find him Ml ■.»■ ;■ ' • '. . B!::-3. THE BASIN OF MINAS THE OLD ACADIAN LAND. ISKffA Hqr^oo KSMaia Horror, 1^ THE LAND OF EVANGELINE. RouU 22. 107 22. The Land of Evangeline. This beautiful and deeply interesting distriet is visited with the greatest ease from the academic town of Wolfville {Central Ifome ; Acadia ; Ameri- can), which is 127 M. fron; St. .John and «);} M tron» Halifax (hy lioute 18), on an arm of the Basin of Minas, and engaged in shipbuilding and farm- ing. It has 1500 inhabitants, ') churches, Acadia Seminary (7 teachers and 70 pupils), and the Ilorton Academy (4 teachers, (JO students). Acadia College is a Baptist institution, with 6 i)rufessors, GO students, aiul 300 nhnuni. The college l)uildings occupy a tine situation on a hill which overlooks " those meadows on the IJasin (»f Minas which Mr. Long- fellow has made more sadly poetical than any other spot on the Western Continent." The * view from the belfry of the college is the most beau- tiful in this vicinity, or even, perhaps, in the Maritime Piovitices. Far across the Cornwallis Valley to the X. is the Xortli Mt., which terminates, 15 M. away (21 M. by ro d), in the majestic bluff of ('ape lilomidon, dropping into the Basin of ^linas. To the N. K. is the "great meadow" which gave name and site to the village of Grand Pre. Steamboats rtm on the Basin of ]\[inas in summer, connecting Wolfville with the other ports, and giving a very delightful journey (see page 101). A good road leads E. (in 3 M.) from Wolfville to Loicer Ilorton, a scat- tered hamlet among the hills. By pass'ng down irom this jK>int to the meadows just beyond the railway-station of Grand Pre, the traveller reaches the site of the ancient vilhige. Standing on the ])hitfonn of the station, he sees a large tree at the corner of the field on the left front. Near that point are the faint remains of the foundations of the Acadian church. The tradition of the country-side claims that the aged willow- tree near by grows on the site of the shop of Basil the Blacksmith, and that cinders have been dug up at its foot. The destruction efl'ected by the British troops was complete, and there are now no relics of the an- cient settlement, except the gnarled and knotty trees of the orchards, the lines of willows along the old roads, and the sunken hollows which indi- cate the sites of former cellars. Near the shore is shown the place where the exiles were put on shipboard. A road leads across the rich diked marsh in 2-3 >L to Lo7i(/ Island, a sli/'ht elevation fronting on the Basin nf Minas, and on which dwells a farniii.g population of about 120 persons, lo the N. E. is the mouth of the Gaspereaux Biver, and on the W. the Cornwallis River is discharged. The early Acadians reclaimed these rich meadows from the sweep of the tides by building light dikes to turn the water. There were 2,100 acres of this gained land in their Grancr.ris; 21 of the attacking I'arty were killed and wounded. In the morning 3i'0 cif tl.r Miussachusett.'^ men weie conientrated in a stone building, anil lought with niiuh bravery, tlie combat biing waged from house to hou^e through the ^tircts. liv noon tljeir annnunif ion wiw exitemkd, and they Hurrondered to the Froi:ch, b» ii j: paroled and allowed to niardi out witii the honors of war. A convivial dini.er wu- then enjoyed by the ofllcers of the whilom hostile forces, and the An:erican.>. v»ic sent to Annapoiis under an Acadian guard, while the FiTnch soon afterward retiml to lieauba.^hin, bearing their captured artillery and four stands of colors which liinl been taken in the battle. I" >l The shores of the Biusin of Mina.s were settled in the early part of the 17th century by immigrants from La Ilochelle, Fuintongc, and Poitou. They soon erccttd dikes by which the tide was kept off from the neudows, ui.d from these rich recluiii td lands tiiey gathered great crops. Several cargoes of gniin were exported to Eortim every year, and the tettlcmcut scon became large and prosperous. The Indiang regarded these new neighbors with affection, and lived on terms of perfect \nwc with them. During the wars between Franc c aiul Great Britain, the Acadians wire strongly patriotic, and took up arn.s in the cauFo of tin ir native land. Intensely devoted to the Roman Catholic Church, and considering these wars as in the nature of crusades, they fought valiantly and well. But when Nova Scotia was finally ceded to Great Britain (in 1713), their poMtion became very awkward and painful. Many of them refused to t.ke the oath of alii'- giance, and for others a modified forn.ula*wi:s frr.n cd. The en. is; aries of the F'rei eh power at i.ouisbourg and Quel (c circulated an.cng them and n.aintaii:ed their loy- alty to Franco at a fever heat, while their priests acted continually on the san.o policy, and kept up the hostility to the conquciors. The British Provincial govern- ment was located at Annapolis, and though its Ir.ws were n iid and den ent, it could not comn.und respect on account of its physical weakness. Under these circum- stances, hur.drcds of the Acadians joined the French arn.ies during every war be- tween tlie two powers, and proved dangerous fccn en, on account of their knowledt'c of the land. British settlers were i.nwilling to locate among these people on accoi iit of their hostility, and the fairest lands of the Province were thns held by an alim and hostile population. The great contiict between England and France in the New World was still in full coui-sc, and the latter power was in possession of the Ci-nadi s. The majority of the Acadians were doubtless peaceful and honest, occupied only with their local affairs; but son.e of tlum were hostile and troublesome, and tlic anomalous position of these alien subjects was a source of incessant danger to the English power. It was therefore detcrn.incd in the council at Halifax, in 1^&5, that they must cither take an unconditional oath of allegiance to Great Pritsiin or leave the country. Deputations were called in from all the French settlcn ents, and the alternatives were clearly fct forth before then . Almost unanimously they relu.-ed to take the oath, prefciring (they said) exile and confiscaticn to such an act, and teen.iug to regarcl their neutrality of the past 45 years as having become a vestid right. It seems as if diplomacy and argument vere tried to their utn ost limit u|. i ii these unyielding recusants, and it then became necessary for the honor and safify of the Province, to rcfort to sterner measures. It was resolved that the whole A(ii- diau people should Le banished to the southern American colonics, and that their estates and buildings, cattle and vessels, should be declared forfeited to the Crown. The Acadians were taken by surprise. A British d( tachu.ent and fleet dcftroyed all the villages, farms, and churches, on the Chignei to Basin and the Petileodiac River, sweeping up n any prisoners and neetingwjth seme sharp fighting. Moiic- ton destroyed yiudiac, Kcmsheg, and other towns on the Gulf coast ; Murniy gath- ered up tile people about Windsor and to the E. ; and Ilandfield put the French Annapolitans on shipboard, except a few who escaped into the woods. M inslow collected 1,923 persons at Grand Pr6 and en larked them, and burned 2S5 houses, 276 barns, and 11 mills. (Winslow was a Massacliusetts officer, and 2( year: later his own fannly was driven into exile for liostilitj- to America.) The people of Grand Pr(5 were sent to North Carolina, Virginia, and Maryland. GRAND PR£ Route SS. 105 ,he winter of town wii.s nt- ed by Couldii us the honili' d in f("a^U^^ly \vhile figlitiiiir nUo pri.'cr.t is; ii>g 3<'<' of til' ht with nnK h c ntncts. Ill French, l>« li j: :inl dini.or wu- n.ericans \u ic erward rrtiuil lors which hud le 17th century 1 erect* d Uikesi ridi rtcluiii I'd irtod to Bofton The Indiiiiis if perfect luiKc ! AcadiiUKs wire ind. InteuMly LS in the nature ), their po^iti{)n he oath of alle- L's of theFrci.ch ait:ed tlicir lny- ly on tlie sun.e Dvincial goverii- len.ent, it cduld r tlie^e circun.- every war li- hcir lir.owlcdec o])le on accoi iit id by an alun ince in the ^l^v of the ('!.!. iuli s. occupied only 'Some, and the t danger to the X, in Vtib, that Britain or leave rents, and the ly they refured h an 'act, and ecome a vesttd Oft limit ujdi onor and pali t\ tlie whole A( n- and that their lo the Crown. fleet destroyed the Pctitcodiac :hting. Monc- Murniy gath- lUt the French Jod^•. WiuJlow rid 2551iouses, 20 ^ earr later opl'e of Grand " WTille we Bee plainly that England could never roally eontrol thin Province while they remained in it, all our fe-ellngfl of huniunity are afleetjil by the removal itself, and Mtiil more by the severity of the attendant eircuniHtaueeM They were the victims of great error on their own part, and of deiu.sivo views that false fHends had instilled into their nunds, and the itnpuist's of imtion.il ambition and jealousy iiret ipituted their fat4». It is, however, sonic eonsolation to know that very numy of the exiles returned within a few years to their native land, ami though not ri-'stored to their native farms, they became an integral and respected jiortion of our popula- tion, displaying, umler all changes, thow simple virtues that thi-y had inherited,-— the same modest, humble, and jx'aceable dis|)osition, that had been their early attrj- hutes ■" (Murdoch.) (See also Clark, Chkzzctoook, and Tr.madik.) In ITtiO a large colony of families from ('onnectii-ut, iu a tleet of 22 vessels con- vosi il hy a nnin-of-war, arrived at (jrand l*r(3 and occupied the deserted farms. " they found 60 ox-carts and a« many yokes, which tlie unfortunate French had iisi'd in conveying their baggage to the vessels that earrieil them away from tho rf)vuitry ; and at the skirts of the forest heaps of the bones of sheep and horned cat- tie, that, deserted by their owners, had jH'rished in wititer from the lack of food. They also met with a few straggling t^unilies of Acadians who had escaped frimi the scrutinizing search of the soldiers at the removal of their countrynu'u, and who, afrail of sharing tho same fate, hid not ventured to till the land, or to appear In the o|M»n country. They had eat<'n no bread for five years, and had subsisted on vegetables, fish, and the more hardy j)art of the cattle that had survived tiie sever- ity of the first winter of their abandonment." (IIai-iuurton ) " This is the forest primeval The murmuring pines and the hemlocks, bearded with nio.ss, and in garments green, indistinct in the twilight, Stand like Druids of eld, with voices sad and prophetic, Stand like harpt^rs hoar, witli beards that rest on their bosom?. Loud from its rocky caverns, the deep-voiced neighboring ocean Speaks, and in accents disconsolate answers the wail of the forest. " This is the forest primeval; bir where are the hearts that beneath it Iji-aped like the roe, when he luars in the wootllainl the voice of the huntsman? Where is the thatch-roofed village, tin; home of Aealian farmers, — Men whose lives gli led on like rivers that water the woodlands, Darkened by shadows of earth, but reflecting an image of heaven ? Waste are those pleasant farms, and the farmers forever departed ! Scattered like dust and leaves, when the mighty blasts of October Seize them, and whirl them aloft, and sprinkle them far o'er the ocean. Naught but tradition remains of the beautiful village of Grand Pr6. " In the Acadian land, on the shores of the Basin of Minaa, Distant, secluded, still, the little village of (irand Pre b;vy in the fruitful valley. Vast meadows stretched to the eastward, Giving the village its name, and pasture to flocks without number. Dikes, that the hands of the farmers had niised with labor incessant, Shut out the turbulent tides ; but at eerUun seasons tlie flood-gates Opened, and welcomed the sea to wander at will o'er the meadows. West and south there were fields of flax, and orchards and corn-fields Spreading afar and unfenced o'er the plain ; and away to the northward Bloniidon rose, and the forests old, and aloft on the mountains Sea-fogs pitched their tents, and mists from the mighty Atlantic Looked on the happy valley, i^nt ne'er from their station descended. There, in the midst of its farms, reposed the Acadian village. Strongly built were the houses, with frames of oak and of chestnut, Such as the peasants of Normandy built in the reign of the Henries. Thatched were the roofs, with dormer-windows ; and gables projecting Over the basement below protecti^d and shaded the doorway. There in the tranquil evenings of summer, when brightly the sunset Lighted the village street, and gilded the vanes on the chimneys, Matrons and maidens sat in snow-white caps and in kirtles Scarlet and blue and green, with distatfs spinning the golden Flax for the go.ssiping looms, who^■e noisy sluitt'es within doors Mingled their .sound with the whir of the wheels and the songs of the maidens Mil 110 Route a. GHAND PR^ Ht Solemnly down tho Btrrct came the parlnh priest, aiid thr rliildreti Pauped in thoir play to kinn the hand he extended to lil« '^H th» ni. Reverend walked he an.on^c them ; and up rose matr()n^ mid maidens, Ilnilin)< h'H nlow approacli with wonln of nlTertionate welromo. Then came tlin liiborcrH home from tlic field, and Kerem Iv the nun nank Down to hiH rest, and twilight prevailrd. Anon from tlir lielfry Softly the Angelus ^oundril, nnd over the roofR of the villngo Columnf of pale blue FUioke, like rlondr) of incenpe arrending, Rose flrom a hundii'd heiirthH, the homeH of peace and contentment. ThuH dwelt together in l«)ve these simple Acndian farmers, — Dwelt in the love of (Jod nnd of mnn. Alike wer«» they free (Vom Fear, that reigns with tlie tyrant, nnd envy, the vice of repuhiics. Neither locks had they to their doors, nor liars to their windows ; But their dwellings were open as day nnd tho hearts of the owners ; There the richest wai u)or, and the iwnrest lived in abundance." The poet thon describes " the gentle KvHiigeUne, the pride of the vil- lage." *' Fair was she to behold, that maitlcn of seventeen summera, Black were her eyes as the berry tliat grows on the thorn by the wayside, Rlack, yet how softly they gleamed beneath the brown shade of her tresses I Sweet was her br»;i*'*. a« the breath of kine that fiwd in the meadows. When in the harvest heat sl.e bon* to the reapers at noontide Flagons of home-brpwed ale, ah ! fair in sootli was the maiden. Fairer was she wh^•^(, on Sunday morn, while tlie bell from its turret Sprinkled with holt 8onnds the air, as the priest with his hyssop Sprinkles tlie congr«'gation, and scatters blessings upon them. Down the long street she passed, with lier cli'ijilet of beads and her missn* Wearing her Norman cap, and her kirtle of blue, and the ear-rings, — Brought in the olden time fnuii France, and siMce, as an heirloom, Handed down from motlier to child, thrttugh longgencnitions. But a celestial brightness — a more ethereal beauty — Shone on her face and encircled her form, wlu'o, after confession, Homeward serenely she walked, witli (Jod's benediction upon her. When she had jmssed. It .•seinned like the ceasing of exquisite music." At\er SI heaiitiful description of the peaceful social life of the Acadisiiis, and the lietrothal of Evangeline, tho poet tells of the arrival of the Knglish fleet, the convocation of the people, the royal mandate, tho destruction of Grand Pr^, and the weary exile of the villagers. " So passed the morning away. And lo ! with a summons sonorous Sounde«i the bell fVom its tower, nnd over the meadow a drum beat. Throngi'd erelong was the church with men. Without, in the churchyard. Waited the women. They stooortal. \Vith loud and di.>-sonant clangor Echoed the sound of their bnizeii drums from ceiling and casement, — Echwd a moment only, and slowly the ponderous portal Closed, and in silence tlie crowd awaited the will of the soldiers. Then uprose their commander, and spake from the steps of the altar, Holding aloft in liis hands, with its seals, the royal coiiimission. ' Yj are convened this day,* he said, ' by his Majesty's orders. Clement and kind lias he been ; but how have you answered his kindness, liet your own luvirts reply I To my natural make and my temper Painful the task is I do, which to you T know must Im' grievons. Yet must I bow and obey, and ileliver the will of our monarch ; Namely, that all your lands, and dwellings, and cattl<' of all kinds Forfeited be to the crown ; and that you yourselves from this province Be transported to other lands. Ood grant you may dwell there Ever as fiiithful subjects, a happy n\ni peaceable pe»)ple I Prisoners now I declare you ; for such Is his Mjyesty's pleasure.' GRAND PRfi. Route 22. Ill itle of the \ il There dlnonlor prevallrd, and tho tumult and ^tlr of embarking. BuHily piled the fr<*lfu, and the ships tliat lay in the roadstead. ColiniitiH of shiniuK smoke uprose, and Hashes of (lame wen^ Thrust through their folds and withdrawn, like the (luiverin^ hands of a martyr. Then as the wind seized th<> ^leeds and the luirninK tliutrh, and uplifting, Whirled them aloft, through the air, at onee from a hundred house-topH Started the sheeted smoke, with iinMhuH of flame intermingled. Many a weary year had passed slnee the burning of Orand Pr6, When on the filling tid(^ Mn; fn-lght^i-d vessels departury the scattered Ikv.h'S of the mammoth. Friends they sought annne;rline. •' Much as we may admire the various bays and lakes, the Inlets, promontories, and straits, the mountiins and wooillands of this rarely visited corner of erejition, — anil, comp;ir(M| witli it, we can hoast of no coast scenery so b(>autiful, — the valley of (Jnind I'll; transcends all tlu^ rest, in the Province. Only our valley of Wyouiing, as an inlind pictuiv, may match it, both in beauty and tradition. One had its (Jer- trmlc, the other its Evangeline " (Co/.zkns ) " bc.voiid is a lofty and extended chain of hills, pn'senting avast chasm, appar- ently hinstont by the w iters of ID rivers thatempty Into the Uisin of Minas, and here e.M'Mi>e into the Hay of Fundy. The variety and extent of this pn sisjct, the beauti- ful verdant v.ile of the (laspereaux ; the extH the chain (d' the North Mt., form an Jis.semblage of obj«!ct8 rarely uniteil with so striking an effect." " It would he ditflcult to point out another landscap<^ at all e«|ual to that which l-t bi'iicld from the hill that «)verlooks the; site of tho ancient village of Minas. Ou either haml ext<>iid undulating hills richly cultivated, and Intermingled with farm- hmises and orchards. From the base of these highland^ extend the alluvial metul- (iws which add so nm<'h to the appe.iniTice and wejtlth of Hortcm. The (Jmnd I'lMirie is skirti-d by Boot and Long Islands, whose fertile and well-tilled fields are >h('lt»'red froiii the north by evcrgveen forests of dark foliage. Beyond are the wide (•\|):iiiaptains are natives of this country. On the adjacent coast, and within 12 M. of Yarmouth, are the marine hamlots of Jegoggin, Sandfurd (Cranberry Head), Arcadia, Ilebmn, Hartford, Kelley's Cove, Jebcigue, Darling's Lake (Short Beach), and Deerfield. These settlements have over 6,000 inhabitants in the aggregate. The coast was occupied by the French during the 17th century, but was afterwards abandoned. About the middle of the last century these de- serted shores were tiken possession of by colonies of fishermen from Massjichu.«ctts and Connecticut, who wished to be nearer their fishing-grounds ; and the pn'sent population is descended from these hardy men and the Loyalists of 1783. The an- cient Indian name of Yarmouth was Keespoogwitk, which means " Land's End.'' The steel steamships Yarmouth and Boston ply between Yarmouth and Boston, leaving Yarmouth every \Vednesday and Saturday for Argyle, Barriugtoa, and Shelburne. Yarmouth ha-s many handsome i-esldences and shops, and manufactories of iron goods, machinery, steam-engines, yachts, yarns, woollen cloths, etc. It is the second town in the Dominion lb.- registered tonnage. le, Barriugton, TUSKET LAKES. Route 23. The Tusket Lakes and Archipelago. 115 The township of Yarmouth contains 80 lakes, and to a bird flylnjir overhead it must seem like a patchwork of blue and green, in which the blue predominates. They are nearly all connected with the Tusket Kiver, and are generally small, very irregular, and surrounded by young forests. They rarely attain the width of 1 M., and are strung along the course of the river and its tribufciries, joined by narrow aisles of water, and breaking off into bays which the unguided voyager would often ascend in mistake for the main channel In the lower lakes, where the tide flows, near Argyle Bay, are proflUible eel-fisheries. The remoter waters, towards the Blue Mts., afford good trout-fishing. The westerly line of lakes are visited from Yarmouth by riding 5 M. out on the Digby road and then turning off to Dterjield, near the Salmon-River Lakes or passing over to the settlement at Lake George (12-14 M. from Yarmouth), which is li M. wide and 3-4 M. long, and is the largest lake in the township. A little farther N. is the Acadian settlement at Cedar Lake. The best route for the sportsman is to follow the Barrington telegraph- road 10 M. N. E. to Tnsket {American House), a prosperous shipbuilding village, with three churches, near the head of ship-navigation on the Tus- ket River. The scenery in this vicinity is picturesque, its chief feature being the man)' green islands off the shores; and the river has been famous for fisheries of salmon and gaspereaux, now impaired by the lumber-mills above. From this point a chain of lakes ascends to the N. for 20 M., in- cluding the central group of the Tuskets, and terminating at the island- strewn Lake Wentworth. The best place is found by following the road which runs N. E. 15- 18 M., between Vaughan Lake and Butler's Liake, and by many lesser ponds, to the remote settlement of X'eywpi (small hotel ), near the head-waters of the central and western groups. To the N. and E. of this point are the trackless forests and savage ridges of the Blue Mts., and the hunter can traverse these wilds for 40 M. to the N. E. (to the Liv- erpool Lakes) or for 30 M. to the S. E (to the Shelburne settlements), without meeting any permanent evidences of civilization. The ancient Indian tradition tells that squirrels were once very numerous in this region, and grew to an enormous size, endangering the lives of men. But the Qreat Spirit once appeared to a blameless patriarch of the Micmacs, and offered to reward his virtue by granting his utmost desire After long meditation the chief asked the Divine Visitor to bless the land by taking the power from the mighty squirrels, upon which the mandate was issued and the draaded animals shrank to their present in- sit^nitioant size. And hence it is known that ever since that day the squirrel has been querulous at the sight of man. S. of Tusket village are the beautiful groups of the Tusket Isles, stud- ding,' the waters of Argyle Bay and the Abiiptic Harbor. Like most other colkc'tions of islands on this continent, they are popularly supposed to be IIOS in number, though tney do not claim to possess an intercalary islet like that on Lake George (New York), which appears only every fourth year. The Tuskets vary in size from Morris Island, which is 3 M. long, down to the smallest tuft-crowned rocks, and afford a great diversity of 1 1 >1 v/l i: , f" 116 Route ^l DIGHY xN'ECK. soenerv. The outer friiif^e of the airhipelttgo is threaded Ity the Halifax aiul Yarmouth ftteanisiii|) (see page Vlb). "The fceiu'ty of ArgNlo Uivy 1h oxtri'iiicly beautiful «)f Its kind; lunuuuTiililo !»lan»lrt lUitl ii«'i'iiu>nliis cnrloM' \\w watiT in ovcry diuTtioii t oltngi'H iiiul oiil tiv.ilod 'iiind bn'.dv tiu' iiiii(*.-i's ut Imvut. uiul I ho iiiiisi.x nf siiiiiil ilr^liiiig-vcHK-lH jMip. ing up t'n>ui ov<>ry little «ov«> ittiost Miu iiiiiitiplifd r«'Si>iiri'<>H wliicli iNiituru Iium pni- vi.il «' sujipiy ot'tlu? iiilmliituiits " (fvi-r. Moou.^on.) Among tlu'so ii.nrow pa.s.nos liuiitiri-ils of Aftidiiui.s tooli jvfugtf during Mir pcrKoru- tious of IToH tiU. A IJritish trigntf wax wnt down to liiint tlivni out, liut oiu- of Ikt bout.-' t ivws \va.>* tlcMinnod l»\ tlw fugitives among tin- isiandn, and tliey wore not Ji>iodged. 'riK'n- are now two or tiueo liuuilets of At iidiann in tlie region of tlie upi>er lakes. Lttko * V .M., and bnadlii 2.^. I'lie water i.s uf tlie pure.st quality, and RM liio I die i.s fed by subterranean spiing.s tlie.>latioii of which ineurH lineH and penalties. The lakes and streams of Yarnioutli t'ouiity are easy of iiet-ess tn) the tourist, who CAU here enjoy at eoniparaiively triHing expense a natural Sportsman's I'aradi.se. Their trout and salmon tlsheries are among the most famous tu Nova ijcotia, and huudrods of Americaus have yearly visited this rugtou. 21 Digby Neck. StH ices leave Digby at 4 iv M daily, remaining at Sandy Cove overnight, and reaching West Tort (40 M.) at 11am Distances. — I>igby to Hossway, H', M. ; Wat»>rford, 12; Ontn'vllle, 16; Lak«»- Blde, 17; S«iudy Cove, 21); Little River, 20; Petite Passage, 8t); Free Port; West Port, 40. The 8t!i^e runs S. W. from Highy, leaving the setticments of Marshall- town ami Brighton on the 1., across the Smelt River. The first hamlet re.iched is Jiossway, whence a roatl crosses to (inlliver's Cove on the Bay of Ftuuly. For over 20 M. the road descends the remarkable peninsula of nigby Neck, whoso average width, from bay to bay, is about li M. On the I. is the continuous range of dark hilla which mtirks the W. end of the North Mt. range, where it is sijikhig towards the sea. Among these hills are found tine specimens of stgate and jasper, juid the views from their summits (when not hidden by trees) reveal broad and brilliant stretches of blue water on either side. Fogs are, however, very prevalent here, and are Ux'ally snpjH>sed to be rather healthy than otherwise. On the 1. of tlio road are the broatl waters of St. Mary's Bay, fur beyond which are the k)w and rugged Blue Mts. Satuly Cove (small inn) is the metropolis of Digby Neck, and has 400 inlnibitants and two churches. Its people live by farming and fishing, and 8upi)ort a fortnightly packet-boat to St. John, N. B. 4 M. S. E., acroj«s St. Mary's Bay, is the port of NVeymouth (see page 112). Beyond Little River village the stage crosses the ridge, and the passenger passes the Halifax ; innuiu<>riilil<> ttnK<*H tllKt oul ig-Vt'HwlH prc|). of |i)>r tlH'y wor« not • region of tliu vatJon , 105 ft ). >st qiialit)', aiiti i(! iiioHt raiiioiiN I'rovincoH, tliu tho o^Km wasoii 111 " lor iiioose- i-takiiiK \s fniiii irtritlgo is tioiu icli iiiourH iiiK'H lu( tourist, who iiaii'H I'aradisu. ova Scotia, and over night, and 'vlUe, 16; Lak«i- 'rev Port; West of MarshiiU- first hamlet V6 on the Bay lo peninsula about li M. 18 the W. 011(1 Among these \V8 from their ant stretclies ent here, and n the 1. of the hich arc the NOVA-SCOTIA COAST. Route i5. 117 t) and has 400 and fishnig, 4 M. S. K., 12). Beyond lenger passes tlie Petite Pnnnafje, which soparntcR Digl)y Neck from I^ong Island. This strait is qnito deep and 1 M. wide, and has a red-arid-white flashing? lij?ht nil its N. W. point (Hoar's Head). On the opposite shore of the passaj^o is a village of 3SK) iiilial)itant3 (mostly fishermen), and the stage now nms (iown Long Island on the Bay of Fmidy side. If there is no fog the view iicross the bay Is pleasing, and is usually enlivened by the sails rif passing vessels. Long Island is about 10 M. long, and 2 M. wide, and its village of Free Port has 700 inhabitants. Near the end of Long Island another ferry-])oat is taken, and the trnv- (11. T crosses (he (jraiid Passage to West Port (('intral /louse), a village (d ()()() inhabitants, most of whom are (Ishermen, shipbuilders, or sea-ea|»- tains. This town is on Hrier Island, the S. K. portal of the Hay of Kundy, and is f) M. long by 2 M. wide. On its K. side are two li.xed white light,s, and on the W. are a fog-whistle and a powerful white light visible for 15 M. 25. Halifax to Yarmouth. The Atlantic Coast of Nova Scotia. The steamer of the We<iihin-g to lilvprpool, .f 2 ; to Shelhumi', lff3; to Yar- in«)Uth, $4.50. Liverpool to Shelbuinw, $2; to YMnnonth, $3.50. Hhelbume to Yarmouth, $3. iierttiH are included iu these priceH, but the meals are extra. "The Atlantic coast of Nova Scotia, from ('ape Canso to ('ape Sable, Is pierced with innuuM'rable small bays, harbors, and rivers. The shores are lined with rockH and thonsamls of islands ; and although no part of the country can properly tw con- sidered mountainous, and there are but few st<»ep high cliffs, yet the aspect of the whole, if not romantically sublinic, is exceedingly pictureH(iue ; and the scenery, in many places, is richly beautiful.. The landscajw which the head of .Mahone Hay, in particular, presents can scarcely be surpassed." (M'iJRKfJOR's British Arnerira ) " The jagjzed outline of this cojist, as seen upon the map, reminds us of the equally indented Atlantic shores of Scandinavia; and the character of the cftast jis he sails along it— the rcM'ky surface, the scanty herbage, and the endless pine forest.s — re- call to the traveller the ap)K>arance and natural productions of the same European country." (1»rof Johnston.) The steamer ]>asses down Halifax Harbor (see page 93), and gains the open sea beyond Chebncto Head and the lighthon.se on Samhro Island. She usually makes a good offing before turning down the coast, in order to avoid the far-reaching and dangerous Sambro Ledges. W. of the open light of Pennant Bay Is Mars Head, on whose fatal rock.s the ocean steam- ship Atlantic was wrecked, in 1873, when 535 persons were drowned. \ >1. 7 J >1I ;■■• «.* . I,* ■'A 118 R(nUe25. LUNENBURG. This line of coast has been famous for its marine disasters. In 1779 the British war-vessels North and HeUma were wrecked near Sambro.and 170 men were drowned. Mars Head derives its name from the fa< t that the British line-of- battle ship Mars, 70 guns, was wrecked upon its black ledges, in l'i79 tlie American war-vessel Vipn, 22, attacked 11. M. S. Rtsolutinn,iU(i.t ott Sanibro, and captured heraftcr a long and desperate battle, in which both ships were badly cut to pieces. Caf<« ^<'an1l)ro was named by the n.arir.ers of St. Malo early in the 17th century ; and it U thought that the present fonn of the name is a corruption of St Centre, the original designation. The ancient Latin book called the Novvs Chbis (published by Elzevir; Amsterdam, 1633) says that the islands between Cnpe Sambro ( Sesambre) and Mahone Bay were called the Idartyrs" Isles, on account of the Frenchmen who had there been mas- sacred by the heathen Indians. Beyond Cape Prospect the deep indentations of St. Margaret's Bay and Mahone Bay make in on the N., and *' breezy Aspotogon Lifts high its summitlblue." The roughest water of the voyage is usually found while crossing the openings of these bays. The course is laid for Cross Island, where there are two lights, one of which is visible for 14 M. Passing close in by this island, the steamer enters that pretty bay which was formerly known to the Indians as Mnlnyash, or " Milky," on account of the whiteness of its stormy surf. At the head of this bay the white and compact town of Lunenburg is seen between two round green hills. The steamer passes around the outermost of these, and enters the snug little harbor. " The town of Lunenburg is situated at the innermost extremity of a penin.';ula, and to a niilifary traveller presents a more formidable aspect than any other In Nova Scotia, the upinr houses being placed on the crests of steep glacis slopes, so as to bear upon all .k^ nroaches " (Capt. Moorson.) Lunenburg {King's Hotel) is a thriving little seaport, situated on a se- cure and spacious harbor, and enjoying a lucrative West-India trade. Together with its immediate environs, it has 4,0(K) inhabitants, of whom over half are in the port itself. The German character of the citizens is still retained, though not so completely as in their rural settlements; and the principal churches are Lutheran. The public buildings of Lunenburg County are located here. A large trade in lumber and fish is carried on, in addition to the southern exports. There are numerous farming communi- ties of Germanic origin in the vicinity; and the shore-roads exhibit at- tractive phases of marine scenery. 7 M. distant is the beautifully situated village of Mahone Bay (see Route 26) ; 4 M. distant are the remarkable sea- side ledges called the Blue Rocks; to the S. E is the rural settlement of Lunenburg Peninsula, oft' which are the sea-girt farms of Heckman's Island ; and 12 M. distant is the gold district of The Ovens. This site was anciently occupied by the Indian village of Malagash. In 1745 the British government issued a proclamation inviting German Protestants to emigrate to Nova Scotia and take up its unoccupied lands In 17.53, 200 families of Germans and Swiss settled at Lunenburg, and were provided with farming implements and three years' provisions by the government. They fortified their new domains as well as possible, but many of the people were killed by Indians Inrkingin the woods. The settlement was thus held in check until after the Conquest of Canada, when the Indians cMssd hostilities. In 1777 the town was attacked by two American priva IRONBOUND ISLAND. Route 25. 119 ) the British ?ere drowned. e ship Marx, -vespel Viper ^ or u long ntui >ani1)rvere re been nias- st's Bay and crossing the where there e in by this ly known to iteness of its act town of samer passes or. f a peninsula, , other in Nova lopes, so as to ted on a se- •India trade, its, of whom le citizens is einents; and f Lunenburg carried on, in :ig communi- s exhibit at- fully situated larkable sea- ettlement of Heckman's . In 1745 the ts to emigrate ies of Geniians nplemcnts and ew domains as g in the woods. lada, when the merican priva teern, who landed detachments of armed men and occupied the principal buildings After plundering the place and securing a valuable booty, these unwelcome visitors sailed away rejoicing, leaving Lunenburg to put on thcVo'oes of war and anxiously yearn for another naval attstck, for whose reception spirit<»(i provisions were made. Among the jMJople throughout thi« county Cieruian customs are still preserved, as at we)• Steamboats sail from Lunenburg fur Halifax every Tuesday and Friday. 1 he steamer leaves Lunenburg Harbor, passes Battery Point and its lif^litliouse on the I., and descends between the kn3uli>ts lu>ttU>«l hen*, hoping to »'i"«H-t a great olty on tills nnrlvallrd harlmr. Tlicy broii^lit tholr w'rvantwnnd ji|nl|i:in;rM, and t'HtabllsluMl a <'ultnnMl nii'tropolitan Horioty. Shfl- Imrnc hoon ran ahoad of llnlifttx, and nwasurt'?* w<-rt> tak« Kcaf of fovornnu'nt \ww. U'itidn on*' \vnr the primeval fori>st wns n-plarcd by a rity of 2, hanilot which hml been fonnded hort' (nndcr the name of New .lernsalenP in \~i'A was replaced In a metropolis ; and (i<»v I'arr soon ent<'r«'d the bay on the frigate Lit Sa/ifiir, amid the roaring of saluting batteries, and named the new city SlielliiiriK'* Hut the place had no rural baek-eo\uitry to supply and be ruriched by ; and the colonists, mostly ?atririans from the Atlantic cities, c«>uld not and would not engage in the fisheries. ho money which they hatl brotight froni their old homes was at last exhausted, and then " Shelburne dwindled Into insigniticanco almost as rapidly as it had risen to notoriei " Many of its iKM»ple rettirned contritely to the United States; and tlio poptdation here soon sank to 400. " It is only the sight of a few large storehouses, with decayed timbers and window-frames, ntantling near the wliarves, that will IcikI him to conclude that those wharves nnist once have teemed with shipmasters and Miilors. The stre«'ts «)f the town are changed Into avenues bounded b\ stone fences on either side, in which grass plants contest the palm of supremacy with Bfones." Within two years over ;52,r)(iO,(HK) were sunk in the founding of yhelburne. The steamer leaves Shelbnnie by the same course on wliicli she entered, with the stunted forests of MeNutt's Ishind on tlie r. Roundinjr Ctipe Rosetray within 1 M. of the iijiiits, she runs down by Cray's ishnui, pass- ing Roinid Ray and the hamlet of iMack Point, on the i)old headland of the same name. Nefp'o l&Uxnd is then seen on the r., and is oceu[)ied by a population of fishernu>n; while its N. K. point has a powerful red-aiid- whito flashinjx lijiht. Inside of this island is the broad estuarvof the Clyde River, n'^d near by is the largo and pictures(pie fishing-village of Vnpe Nejjro. Cape Negro was so named by Chamjtlain, in 1004, "on account of a rock which at a distance resembles one." The steamer then passes the Salvage Rocks, olf Blanche Island (Point Jefl'reys), and opens the broad bay of Port Latour on the N. W. This haven was the scene of stirring events during the 17th century, and the renuiins of the fort of Claude de la Tour are still visil)le here. " Claude Turgis do St. Estieune, Sicur do la Tour, of the province of Champagne, quitted Paris, taking with him his sou Charles Amador, then 14 years old, to settle in Acadia, near Poutrincourt, who was then engaged in founding Port lloyul." 17 years afterwards, Charles succeeded to the government on the death of IJiencourt, Poutrincourt's son, and for 4 years held Fort St. Louis, in the pri-sent Port Latour. Meantime Claude had bei>n caj)tured by tlie Knglish and carried to London, wlicro he was knighted, and then married one of the Queen's maids-of-honor. lU-iiig a Huguenot, ho was the more eaisily seduced from his allegiance to France, and iio olTbred to the King to procure the surrender of Fort St. Lo>iis (the only French post then held in Acadia) to the English So he sailed to Nova Scotia with two frigates, and asked his son to yield up the stronghold, offering hhr, high honors at London and the supreme command in Aoadia, on behalf of the English power. " Claude at once told his father that he was mistaken in supposing him capable of giving up the place to the enemies of the state. That he would preserve it for the king his master while he had a breath of life. That he esteemed highly the digoities offered him by CAPE SABLE. lloiile 25. 123 lie jifTPnt for- VV. Fnrcs, iioutli, $4. HI \uM, 10 M. OrtMit Kritiiii) icaii lioyiillstH TIh'.v l)r()ll^'llt Hocioty. i^lit'l- iT tlH» fvnt «)f il 1)3' a rity of let which hud rcplin'cd h\ li /iliif, amid tho Itiit the plnco lonistH, iiKistiy n tho fisl»>ri<'s. 'xhaiiHtod, 1111(1 it had risen to ttitos ; and tiio ;e Htondjoiisj's, , that will IdkI iipninHt(iiss- hciulhinil of occupied hy fp.l rod-iiiid- oftlie Clyde ago of Cnpe on Jiceount then passes d opens tho le scene of tlic fort of )f Champagne, '8 old, to settle t Royal." 17 of llicncourt, t Port Latour. london, wlievc nor. HeinK a 'ranee, and lie y French post two frigates, ors at London "Claude at pfiving up tlie ni? hi.s master )ffered him by the KnKli'*ti KinKi ^»t nhould not buy them at thn price of tmaiton. That tho prince h«> served wiui al)ln to nnnt« inten-exsion and hf»ld merwu-e, aliko In vain : and the Kn^li^ii naval eomniander ttu^n laniied his foreex, liut wax m>ven>ly rcpnl.s<'d from the fort, and finally jrave up tiie Mletje. A tniit^>r to Knmre and a canse of disiiNter to KnKland, the unfortunate La Tour dared not n'urn to Kuro|H>, but luivised IiIh patrician wife to (j^o hack with the fleet, since naup;ht now reinnined for him l»ut p«Miury and niiwry. The nohle ladv replied, " that she had not married iiini to altandon him. That wherever he should tJiUe her, and in whatever condi* tion he mi^lit Im; plm'«!il, she woulil always he his fiitlsfnl companion, ami that all her happiness would consist in .softeninj^ his jfrief." lie fiien threw himself on the clemency of his son, who temjM-red filial alfeclion with militJiry vi(;ilance, and wel- comed tlie elder IjaTo)ir,with his family, servants, and e<|uipa)e Sable, when she sighted two strange sail, and bore do wj) on them, supposing them to be merclmnt- loeii ; but one was a British sloop-of-war, which opened a liot fins ui)on (he incau- tious Folli/, and a sharp chase ensued. A calm conunenced, during wiiich the frig- ate's boats and lauuch attacked the privateer, hut were repulsed by lieavy dis- charges of nuisketry and langrage. The Pully made her escape, and during the cha.se and action the convoy of the frigate had been captured by the privateer Mad- ison, and was sent into Silem. In the same vicinity ( Aug. 1,1812) the Rhode-Island privateer Yankee captured the British ship Royal Bnmly, 10 guas, after a battle of one hour's duration. The 111 t':-5 I 124 Routers. BARRINGTON. privateer's broadnidefl were dpHvered with great precision, antl 150 of her shot strurk the enemy, while tlie fire of the Royal Bounty, though rapid and licavy, was nearly ineffective. The shattered Briton t)ecnme uimianap'able, and while in that condi- tion was miced from stem to stern by the Yankee's l>:ittcries. Cape Sable lias lonj? been dreaded by wiunen , nnd bus caupht up and destroyed many vessels. It is one of the most dnuKerous prongs of that iron-bound Province for which Edmund Burke could find no better words than " that liard-visaped ill- favored brat " l*robably th(! most destructive wreck on this shore was that of' the ocean steamship Hungarian. The steamer runs N. \V. up the Barrinyton Passnfje to Barriogton {Bar- rington House ; IVilloto Grace ; Rock Cottar/t ; Island Lodye, — each $5-7 a week), a thriving maritime village, 43 M. from Yarmouth, whence it U reached hy 8teaml)oats thrice weekly, connectin^^ with the Boston boats, or b.v daily sta^e. (Boston to Barrington, $6 by steamer, or $7 by steamer and otage.) Ten to twelve miles north are the Sabimm and Great Pubnico Lakes. Barrington Avas settled at an early date by the French, but they were crowded off in 1763 by the arrival of 160 families from Capo Cod, who brought hither their household effects on their own vessels. After the Revolution, a colony of Loyalists from Nantucket settled hero with their whilom neighbors. The course is now to the S. W., through a narrow and tide-swept pas- sage between Clement Point and N. K. I'oint, a^d thence ont through tlio Barrington West Passage, passing the liaptist church near Clarke's Har- bor, and emerging on the open sea between Bear Point and Newell Head. (It is to be noted that, under certain adverse conditions of wind and tido, the steamer does not call at Harrington, but rounds Cape Sable on the outside.) On the 1. is Green Island, hiding Cape Sable, and the inlet of Shag Harbor is seen on the r. On Bon Portage Island (whose original French name was Bon Potage) is a new lighthouse, to warn vessels from the rugged shores on which the Viceroy was wrecked. The course soon changes toward the N. W., and Seal Island, "the elbow of the Bay of Fundy," is seen on the 1 , far out at sea, with the tower of its lighthouse (fixed white light, visible 18 M., and fog-whistle) looming al)ove its low shores On this island the ocean-steamship Columbia was lost. The Blonde Rock is 3^ M. S. by W. from the lighthouse, and marks the point where H. B. M. frigate Blonde went to i)ieces, in 1782. Her crew was res- cued from the island and was given liberty by the American privateers Lively and Scammell, which were prowling about Cape Sable at the time of the wreck. When the Seal Island lighthouse is just abeam, on the other side is scon Cockerv/hit and the Mutton Islands; N. of Seal Island tlie Noddy, Mud, and Round Islands are seen, lying well out at sea. The early French maps (Chaubert's) gjive these lonely islands the >*lgnificant name of Lts Ules aux Loup» Ma rim. From Cape Sable " one goes to tlie hU aux Cormorants, a league distant, so called on account of the infinite number there of those birds, with whose eggs we filled a TUSKET ISLANDS. Route g5. 125 ctj\ ; and firom thin bay making W. about 6 leaffue8>cro!)fling a bay which runs in 2-3 leagues to the N., we meet several islands, 2-3 leagues out to sen, which may contain, some 2, others 3 leagued, and others less, according to my judgment. They are mostly very dangerous for vessels to come close to, on account of the great tides and rocks level with the water. These islands are filled with pine-trees, firs, birches, and aspens. A little further on are 4 others. In one there is so great a quantity of binls called tani;urtix that they may be easily knocked down with a stick. In another there are seals. In two others there is such an abundance of birds of dif- fitrcnt kinds that, without having seen them, could not be imagined, such as cor- niorants, ducks of three kind.", pee.'^e, marmcttes, bustards, prrroquels de mer, snipes, vultures, and other birds of prey, mnnnes, sea-larks of two or three kinds, herons, t;f)»7//iwf», curlews, sea-gulls, divers, kites, appoih, crows, cranes, and other sorts, which make their nests here.'' (Champlvin ) " Here are many i.Mands extending into the sea, 4 5 M. distant from the main- land, and many rocks with l[>reaking seas. Some of these islands, on account of the multitude of birds, are called I.tles mix Tang mux ; others are called IsUsavxLoups Marins (Seal Islands) " (Novus Orbis.) N of St. John's Island (on tlie r.) is seen the deep inlet of Pnbnico Har- bor, on wlio.se shores is the great fishing-village of Fubnioo ( Cnrland's Ilotel)^ with 2,500 inhabitants, of whom 136 families are Acadian-French, the greater portion belonging to the families of Amiro and D'Entremont. There are valuable eel-fisheries off this coast, and the Acadians own 65 schooners in the Banks fisheries. 5 M. N. is Arf/yle, a settlement of f 00 inhabitants, near the island strewn Abuptic Harbor. The steamer now cros.ses the month of Argyle Bay and the estuary of the Tusket River (see page 116), andenters the archipelago of the *Tusket Islands. In favorable conditions of wind and tide she traverses the EUen- wood Passage, passing the Bald Tuskets, KUenwood, Allen, and Murder Islands, and a multitude of others. The islands are of great variety of size and shape, and are usually thickly covered with low and sturdy trees; and the channels between them are narrow and very deep. The frequent kaleidoscopic changes in the views on either side, and the fascinating commingling and contrast of forest, rock, and water, recall the .scenery of the Thousand Islands or the Narrows of Lake George. But the Tuskets are not even embayed; they stand off one of the sharpest angles of the contitient, and the deep lanes between them are traversed by the strongest tides of the ocean. Soon after passing the last Tusket the steamer runs in near the white village on Jtbogue Puint, and enters Yarmouth Sound. On the 1. is Cape Fourchu, with its fog-whistle and a lofty revolving light which is visible for 18 M. The narrow channel is ascended, with a plain of mud on either i^ide, if the tile is out; and the vessel reaches the end of her journey at the wharves of Yarmouth. Yarmouth, see page 114. > 'I III It. A I(! i|! I 126 Route m, ST. MARGARET'S BAY. 26. Halifax to Yarmonth, by the Shore Route. — Chester The eaniest route to the chief ports on tins coast is hv the steamship Hue (see Route 26); and tlie new Wcstern-Coiiiitit's Ilailway. fioin Yarmouth to Annapolis will furnish a still more ex|K;ditious line of travel. But many points on the Atlantic front of the Province are, and will be, accessible only by stages. This mode of travel is fully as arduous here as in other remote districts, and t!ie accommodations for wayfarers are indifferent. IliAtanceH. — Halifax to St Marsf.iret's Hay, 21 M ; Hubbard's Cove (McLean's), 3'J: ('hcster, 45 ; .Miihone Bav, H5 (branch to Lunenburg in 7 M.) : Briiigewater, 74- Mill Village, 92; Liverpool, 102: Port Mouton, 112: Port .loli. 116; Si'ble Kiver, 127 ; Lockeport, 141 ; .Fonlan Kiver, 11:^; Shelburne, 141; Barrington, ;64 ; Pub- nieo, 175 ; Tnsket, l!>l ; Yarmouth, 211. Ilcr Majesty's mail -stages leave Ilaliliix daily, at 6.30 A.M. Returning, leave Hiiiltcewater at 5 a. m. daily. Leave Bridjie- water for Liverpool, Fj-^ckeporfc and Shelburne, daily, at 8 p m. Shelburne for Bridgewater, at noon. Stages from Liverpool to Milton and Port Medway ; from M;\hone Bay to Lunenburg ; from head of St Margaret's Bay to French Villai^e, Glen Maigan^t. and Peggy's Cove SUiges leave Y>:nnouth for Shelburne, ete., on arrival of evening train from Bigby. Fares. — Halifax to Chester, .$2 50; Mahone Bay, S3 50 (Lunenburg, !iii4); Bridgewater, $4 ; Liverpool, «6 ; Shelburne, !iP8.50 ; Barrington, #10; Yarmnnfb. 912. The »tnge rattles up the hilly streets of Halifax at early morniiior, 'iiid traverses the wide commons N. of the Citadel, with formal lines of trees on either side. Beyond the ensuing line of suburban villas it descends to the level of the Northwest Arm (see page 100), along whose head it passes. The road then leads along the shores of the lakes whence Halifax dniws its water-supply, and enters a dreary and thinly settled region. Dauplil- ney's Cove is at the head of * St. Margaret's Bay, one of the most beauti- ful bays on all this remarkable coast. It is 12 M. long b}* 6 M. wide, aiid is entered by a passage 2 M. wide; and is supposed to have been named {Baie de Ste. Marguerite) by Champlain, who visited it in May, 1C03. There arc several small maritime villtiges on its shores, and the dark bhie waters, bounded by rugged hills, are deep enough for the passage of Ijiijie ships. The stage runs S. W. along the shore for 11 M., sometimes rolling alongsiy the St. Croix River, emptying into the Avon at Windsor. 7 M. S. W. of Hubbard's Cove the stage crosses the East Rirer, "a glorious nmway for salmon, with splendid falls and cold brooks turnldiii;]; into it at intervals, at the mouth of which large trout can be caught two at a time, if the angler be skilful enough to land them when hooked." Frequent and beautiful views of Mahone Bay are now gained (on the 1), as the stage sweeps around its head and descends to CHESTER. Route 26, 127 Chester (Lmrff ITotntc; Mulgmve; daily stafCR to Halifax, and semi- wcckly stcMinor), finely sitiintrd on a hill ovorlnnkinj^ Mahoiio Ray, has flOO iuiiabitants, live churches, and very pleasant suninicr society. It was settled about the year 1760 by 144 New-Englanders, who brought an outfit of cattle and fanning-tools. In 1784 they were joined by a large number of Loyalist refugees, but these were from the American cities, and soon wearied of farming and returned out of exile. In the woods near the vil- \\\cp. is a thermal spring 8 ft. around, whence a soft alkaline water is dis- cliitrgod; and on the shores of Sabbatee Lake are found deposits of kaolin, or white pipe-clay. Mr. Hallock is an enthusiastic admiror of this town, and says : " Three pleasant poasons have I spmt at Chester. 1 idolize its very name. Just l)elo\v my window a lawn slopes down to a little bay with a jetty, where an occasional nchooner lands pome stores. There is a lar^e tree, under which 1 have plmeJ some seats ; and off the end of the pier the hulies can catch flounders, tomcods, and cunners, in any quantity. There are beautiful drives in the vicinity, and innumerable islandH in the lia>, where one can bathe and picnic to hearfs-content. There are sailing-boats for lobster-spcarins and d«!ep-st« tishing, and row-boats too. From tlie top of a nei^hborinj? hill is a wonderful panorama of forest, stream, and cultivated shore, of bays and distant sea, filled with islands of every size and shape. And if one will go to (jlold lliver he may perchance see, as I have done, caribou (juietly fetMling on the natural meadows along the upper stream. Beyond lUech Hill is a tra<'kk'ss forest, fllled with moose, with which two old hunters living near oft liold familiar inter- course." (The Fishing Tourist.) One of the pleasantcst excursion.s in this district is to Deep Cove and Blandford, 14 M. from Chester, by a road which follows the shores of Malione Bay. Irom Bhmdford the ascent of Mt. AspotOgon is easily ac- complished, and rewards the visitor by a superb marine* view, including the great archipelago of Mahone Bay, the dee|), calm waters of St. Mar- garet's Bay on the E., the broken and picturesque shores towards Cape Sainbro, and a wide sweep of the blue Atlantic. Visitors at Chester also (hive down the Luneiiburg and Lahave road, which allbrds pretty sea- viows. \ rugged road leads across the Province to Windsor, about 40 M. N., Qa<«sing throiijfh an almost unbroken wilderness of hills, and following the course of the Avon flakes and lliver. Semi wet^kly stages run from Chest tery. Big Tunrook is the chief of the islands in Vnir' tay, and is about 2 M. long It contains 5(H) inhabitants, who are engaged in farming and fishing. Between this point and Mt. Aspotogon is Little Tancook Island, '\'ith 60 inhabitants. These islands were devastated, in 1756, by the Indians, who killed several of the settlers. *' This bay, the scenery of which, for picturesque grandeur, is not surpassed by any landscape in America, is about 10 M broad and 12 deep, and contains within it a multitude of beautiful wooded islands, which were probably never counted, but are said to exceed 200." ^oon after the Yarmouth stage leaves Chester " we come to Chester Basin, island-gemmed and indented with many a little cove; and far out to fea, looming up in solitary grandeur, is Aspotogon, a mountain head- land said ^o be the highest land in Nova Scotia ( V ). The road follows the shore for many a mile, and then turns abruptly up the beautiful valley of Gold River, the finest of all the salmon streams of this grand locality. In it there are eleven glorious pools, all within 2 M. of each other, and others for several miles above at longer intervals." Mahone Bay (Victoria Hotel) is a village of 800 ir habitants, situated on a pretty cove about 17 M. from Chester. It has 4 churches, and its inhab- itants are mostly engaged in fishing and the lumber-trade. In the vicinity are several other populous German settlement-?, and 7 M. S. is LunenlMir;i ^seo page 118). This point was known to the Indians by the name of Mushnmmh. and was fortified bv the liritish in ].764. The stage now traverses a dreary inland region, inhabited by German*. and soon reaches Bridgewater (Fairvieto I/uirl), a village on the Laliave River, 13 M. from the sea. It has 1,000 inhabitants and 4 churches, and is hugel} engaged in the lumber-trade, exporting staves to the liiited States and the West Indies. The scenery of the Lahave River is at- tractive and picturesque, but the saw-mills on its upper waters linve proved fatal to the fish (see page 119). The road now traverses a (li.-iiml region for 18 M., when it reaches Mill Vlllofje (small hotel), on the I'.irt Medway River. This place has several large saw-mills and a match- LIVERPOOL LAKES. Route 97. 129 factory, and its population numbers about 400. It is near the Doran and Herringcove Lakes, and is 6 M. from the Third Falls of the Lahave. 9 M. S. VV. is Liverpool (see pajije 120). From Liverpool to Yarmouth the road runs along the heads of the bays and across the interveninoj strps of land. The chief stations and their distances are given in the itinerary on page 126; the descriptions of the towns may be found in Route 25. 27. The Liverpool Lakes. This system of inland waters is most easily reached (W)m Ilalifiix or St. John by passing to Annapolis Royal and there taking the stage which leaves at 6 A. M. diiitv. L>l»tanre8. — Annapolis; Milford,14 M. ; Maitland,27; Northfield,30 ; Kempt, 35; Brool^ileld, 41; Caledonia Corner; Greenfield (Pouhook), 50; Middlefield, 56; Liverpool, 70. Soon after leaving Annapolis the stage enters the valley of Allen's River, which is followed toward the long low range of the South Mt. At AfilJ'ord (small inn) the upper reservoirs of the Liverpool River are met, and from this point it is possible to descend in -anoes or flat-bottomed boats to the town of Liverpool, 60 M. distant. If a competent guide can be secured at Milford this trip can be nuide with safety, and will open up rare fishing- grounds. The lakes are nearly all bordered by low and rocky shore?, with hill-ranges in the distance; and flow through regions which are as yet but little vexed by the works of man. The trout in these waters are abundant and not too coy ; though better fishmg is found in proportion to the dis- tance to which the southern forest is ent(3red. Mr. McClelland has been tlje best guide from Milford, but it is uncertain whether he will be avail- able this summer. Queen's and Lunenburg Counties form " the lake region of Nova Scotia. All that it lacks is the grand old mountains to make it physically as at- tractive as the Adirondack?, while as for game and fish it is in every way infinitely superior. Its rivers are short, but they flow with full volume to the sea, and yield abundantly of salmon, trout, and sea-trout. Its lakes swarm with trout, and into many of them the salmon ascend to spawn, .md are dipped and speared by the Indians in large nun bers." (Hal- lock.) " In the hollows of the highlands are likewise embosomed lakes of every variety of form, and often quite isolated. Deep and iutens«>ly blue, their shores fringed with rock bowlders, and generally coutHlnlug several islandn, they do much to di- viTsifv the monotony of the forest by their frequency and picturesque scenery." (L'apt. Hardy.) The Liverpool road is rugged, and leads through a region of almost un- broken forests. Beyond Milford it runs S. E. down the valleys of the Hoot Lake and Fisher's Lake, with dark forests and ragged clearings on either side. Maitland is a settlement of about 400 inhabitants, and a few miles beyond is Northfield, whence a forest^road leads S. W. 6 M. to the 6* I 1 ■'.; ft Sv^ r:J ill \n f. ■ \ i " j ft 1 30 Roxite 97. LIVERPOOL LAKES. shore of Fairy Lake, or the Frozen Ocean, a beautiful island-strewn sheet of water 4 M. long. J. M. Monro, of Maitland. is a pood guide. The road now enters Broohfield, the centre of the new faiTnino; settle- ments of the North District of Queen's County. Several roads diverge hence, and in the vicinity the lakes and tributaries of the Liverpool aiul Port Medway Rivers are curiously interlaced 5-6 M. S. K. is the J/rf/r^^a Lake, which is 5 M. long and has several pretty islands The road passes on to Greenjiekl, a busy lumbering-village at the outlet of Port Medway Great Lake. This long-drawn-out sheet of water is also skirted by tlie other road, which runs S. from Brooktield through Caledonia Corner (small inn). The Ponhook Road is S. W. of Greenfield and runs down through the forest to the outlet of Ponhook Lake, ' the headquarters of the Micmacs and of all the salmon of the Liverpool River " This Lidian village is the place to get guides who are tireless and are familiar with every rod of the lake-district From this point a canoe voj'age of about 8 M. across the Ponhook Lakes leads the voyager into the great * Lake Bossignol, which is 12 M. long by 8 M wide, and affords one of the most picturesque sights in Nova Scotia. "A glorious view was unfolded as we left the run and entered the still water of the lake. The breeze fell riipidlv with the sun and enabled us to steer towards the centre, from which alone the size of the lake could be appretia ted, owing to the number of the islands. These were of every imaginable shajje and size, — from the grizzly rock beariiipr a solita.'v ptunted pine, shaggy with Usnea, to those of a mile in length, thickly wooded wiiu maple, beech, and birches Here and there a bright spot of white sand formed a beach tempting for a di.'ienibarkation ; and fre- quent sylvan scenes of an almost fairy -land character opened up as we coasted along the shores, — little harbors almost closed in from the lake, overgrown with wator- lilies, arrow-heads, and other aquatic plants, with mossy banks backed by bo.sky groves of hemlocks.'' (('apt. H.\rdy.) At the foot of Lake Rossignol i : a wide oak -opening, with a fine greensward under proves of white oaks Near this point the Liverpool River tlows out, passing several islets, and affording good trout-tishing. In and about this oak-opening was the chief village of the ancient Micmacs of this region ; and here are thdr nearly oblit- erated burying-grounds. The site is now a favorite resort for hunting and fishing parties. The name Ponhook means " the first lake in a chain " ; and these shores are one of the few districts of the vast domains of Migginndhgf'e, or " Micn\uc Land," that remain in the po.'jsession of the aborigines. From ' 'onhook 12 lakes may be entered by canoes without making a single portage. From Lake Rossignol the sportsman may visit the long chain of the 8e(/um-Se(ja Lakes, entered from a stream on the N. \V. shore (several portages), and may thence ascend to the region of the Blue Mts. and into Shelburne County. The Indian Gardens mny also be visited thence, af- fording many attractions for riflemen. The Micmacs of Ponhook are the best guides to the remoter parts of the forest. There are several gentle- men in the town of Liverpool who have traversed these ])leasant solitude*, and they will aid fellow-sportsmen loyally. The Indian village is only about 16 M. from Liverpool, by a road on the 1. bank of the river. Liverpool, see page 120. The Nova-Scotia Central Railway leads from Middleton to the vicinity of the lakes, and across to Uridgewater aud Lu- nenburg. There are steamers on Malaga and Ponhook Lakes, CHEZZETCOOK. Route i8. 131 28. Hali&x to Tangier. The Royal mail-stage leaves Halifax at 6 a. m. on Monday, Wednesday, and Fri- day (returning the alternate days , for the villages along the Atlantic slioi-e to the K. The conveyance is not good, and the roads are sometimes in bad condition, but there is i)rctty coast-scenery along the route Distances. — Halifax; Dartmouth; Porter's Lake (Tnnis's), IH M : t'liezz.et- cook Road (Ormon's), 18; Musquodoboit Harbor, 28; Lakevilie (Webber's), 40; Ship Harbor, 46 ; Tangier, 60 ; Sheet Harbor, 80 ; Beaver Harbor, 90. After leaving Dartmoutli, tlie stage runs E. through a hike-strewn coun- tiv, and passes near the gold-mines of Montague. Beyond tlie Little Siilnion River it traverses Preston, with the gold-bearing district of Lawrencetovvn on the S. The mines and placer-washings at this point drew large and enthusiastic crowds of adventurers in 1861-62, but they are now nearly abandoned. The road rounds the N. end of Echo Lake and ascends a ridge beyond, after which it crosses the long and river-like expsuise of Porter's Lake, and runs through the post-village of the same iiHine. 3-4 M. to the S. E is Chezzetcook Harbor, with its long shores lined with settlements of the Acadian P'rench, whereof Cozzens writes: — " But we are again in the Acadian forest ; let us enjoy the scenery. The road we are on is but a few miles from the sea-shore, but the ocejin is hidden from view by tlie thick woods. As we ride along, liowever, we skirt the edges of coves and inletti tliat frequently break in upon the landscape. Then? is a chain of fresh-water lakeH also along this road. Sonjetimes we cross a bridge over a rushing torrent ; some- tunes a calm expanse of water, doubling the evergreens at its margin, comes into view ; anon a gleam of sapphire strikes through the verdure, and an ocean-bay with its shingly beach curves in and out between tlie piny slopes." Here " the water of the harbor has an intensity of color rarely seen, except in the pictures of the niost ultramarine painters. Mere and there a gn>en island or a tisliing-boat rested upon the surface of tlie tninquil blue. For miles and miles the eye fnliowed indented grassy slopes that rolled away on either side of tlie harbor, and tlie most delicate pencil could scarcely portray the exquisite line of creamy sand thiit skirted their edges and melted off in the '•lear margin of the water. Occasional little cottages nestle among tliese green banks, — not the Acadian liouses of the prnMii, 'with thatched root's and dormer-windows projecting,' but comfortable, lioiiiely-looking buildings of modern shapes, shingled and un-weathercocked The women of Chezzetcook appear at daylight in the city of Halifax, and as soon as the sun is up vanish like the dew They have usually a basket of fresh eggs, a brace or two of worsted socks, a bottle of fir baLsani, to sell. These comprise their simple coninu'iTe " Chezzetcook was founded by the French in 1740, but was abandoned during the long subse(iuent wars. Alter the British conquest and pacification of Acadia, many of tlie old families i\ turned to their former iioiiies, and ('hezzetcook was re-occupied by its early settlers. They formed an agricultural community, and grew rapidly in jirosperity and in numbers. Th«>re are about 250 f iinilies now resident about the li.iy, preserving tae names and language and many of the primitive customs of the Acadians of the Ba.>iu of Minas. (See pages 108 and 113.) The road passes near the head of Chezzetcook Harbor, on the r., and tlien turns N. E. between the blue waters of Chezzetcook Croat Lake ( 1.) and Pepiswick Lake (r.). The deep inlet of Mus(/uo<(oboit llnrbor is soon reached, and its head is crossed. This is tl e harbor where Capt. Hardy nuule his pen-picture of this romantic coast: — "Notliing can exceed the beauty of scenery in some of the Atlantic harbors of Nova Scotia, — their innumerable islands and heavily-wooded shores fringed with f 4 132 Route £8. TANGIER. the golden kelp, the wild undulating hills of maple rising in the background, the patches of meadow, aud neat little white Hhauties of the fishermen's clearings, .... the fir woods of the we.stern shores bathed in the morning sunbeams, the perfect reflection of tic i-slan i.s aud of the little flshiug-schooners, the wre:iths of blue smoke rising from their cabin stoves, and the roar of the distant rapids, where the river joins the harbor, borne in cadence on the ear, mingled with the cheerful sounds of awakening life from the clearing.s." Neur Musquodoboit are 8' me valuable gold-mines, with two powerful quartz-crushing mills, and several moderately rich lodes of auriferous quartz. The stage soon reaches the W. arm of Jeddwe Harlxtr, and then crosses the Le Marchant Bridge. The district of Jeddore has 1,623 in- habitants, most of whom are engaged in the fisheries or the coasting trade, alternating these employments with lumbering and shipbuilding. A long tract of wilderness is now traversed, and Ship Harbor is reached. A few miles N. W. is the broad xponse of Ship Harbor Luke, reaching nearly to the Boar's Baci "^id and having a length of 12-14 M. and a width of 2-4 M. To ti » a V the hills whence falls the Tangier River, to which the Indians • • tij onomatopoetic name of Ahviaffopakegeek, which signifies " tumbling o, . the rocks." The post-road now enters the once famous gold-bearing district of Tanyitr. These mines were opened in 1860, and speedily became widely renowned, attract- ing thousands of adventurers from all parts of tlie Atlantic coast. For miles the ground was honeycou.bed with pits aud shtilts, and the excited men worked with- out intermission. But the gold was not found in masses, aud only patience and hard work could extract a liu.ited quantity from the quartz, so the crowd became discontented and went to the new fields. Lucrative shore-wa. hings were enguguil in for somo time, and a stray nugget of Tangier gold w eighing 27 ounces was shown in the Dublin Exposition. This district covers about 30 square miles, and has 12 UhIcs of auriferous quartz. Tlie South Lode is the most valuable, and appears to gi-ow richer as it descends. The mines are now being worked by two small companies, aud their average yield is $ 400-500 per miner each year. Beyond Tangier and Pope's Bay the post-road passes the head of Spry Bay^ and then the head of Mushaboon Harbor, and reaches Sheet JJarbur (Farnal's Hotel). This is a small shipbuilding village, at the head of the long harbor of the same name, and is at the outlets of the Middle and North Rivers, famous for their fine salmon fisheries. Sherbrooke* see page 133. Considerable interest attaches to Sherbronke in theeyesof the sportsman as being in the centre and hcad2.50) to Sherbrooke {Sfieibrimke Ilutd; CaltduHKi Jlottl, — both with livery-stables — see also- page i:{-2), a village on the 1. bank of the St. Mary's River, the largest river in Nova Scotin, and at the head of navigation on that stream. It is engtiged in sliipbuilding and in the exportation of deals and lumber. The town de- rives considerable interest from the fact that in the vicinity is one of the broadest and most prolific gold-fields in the I'rovince. Goldennlle is 3 M. from Sherbrooke, by a road which crosses the St. Mary's on a long bridge. This district covers 18 square miles, and is the richest in the Province, having yielded as high as $2,000 per man per year, or about three times the average production of the best of the Australian m' js. The aurifer- ous lodes are operated at Goldenville only, where there . ''e vera! quartz- crushers on a large scale. These mines were discov "ed -n 1861, and on the first day over $500 worth of gold was found here. Systematic mining operations were soon commenced, and the yield of the t ■'ecious metal has since been very satisfactory. The Wine-Harbor Gold-field is sevenil miles .S. E. of She. orooke, near the mouth oftlie St. Mary's River. The average yield per ton is 8inaU,yct the breadth and continuity of the loJcs renders the work easy and certain. Tiiis district is seamed with abandoned shafts and tunnels, one of which is 7<10 ft. long. The first discovery of gold was made in 1860 in the sands of the se{i-.diore, and the quartz lo\ and by the white sea-V)each with its continued surf, — the sand-hills, part nukod, part waving in grass of the dee|)est green, unfold themselves, — a hou.«e and a barn dot the wesU'rn extremity, — here and there along the wild beach lie the ribs of uu- lucky traders half buried in the shifting sand Nearly the first thing the vis- itor does is to moimt the flag-staff, and, climbing into the crow's-nest, scan the seem- The ocean bounds him everywhere. Spread east and west, he views the narrow island in form of a bow, as if the great Atlantic waves had bent it around, nowhiTe much above 1 M. wide, 26 M. long, including the dry bars, and holding a shallow lake 13 M. long in its centre. There it all lies spread like a map at bis feet, — grassy SABLE ISLAND. Route SO. 1 35 bill and flandy valley fading away into tlie distance. On the foreground the outpoft mon galloping tlieir rougli ponies into lieiidquarterM, recalled by the flag flying over his lieii'i; the West-end lioutm of refuge, with bread and matches, firewood and kettle, and directions to find water, and headquarters with flag-t4tatl' on the adjoin- iiv; iiili. Kvery sandv peak or grassy knoll witli a dead mans name or old sliip's tradition, — Maker's Hill, Trotts Cove, Se()t<-hman"s Head, Frencii (Jardens, — tra- ilitiinary spot wiiere tiie poor convicts expiated their soeial crimes, — the little luiri;il-gronii.l ne-tliiij^ i.i tiie long grass of a higii hill, and conseeraU'd to tiie re- nti-e (it many a sea-to^.-^ed liiiib ; and 2-3 M. down the shallow lake, the South-side house and barn, and stalVaud boats lying on the lake beside the door. 9 .M. furtlier down, by the aid of a glass, lie may view the tlag-statfat the foot of the lake, and 6 M. farther the East-end lookout, with its stall" and watch-house Herds of wild ponies dot the hills, and black-duck and sheldrakes an' heading their young broods (III the mirror-like ponds. Seals innumerable are basking on the warm sands, or pile I like ledges of rock along the shores. The Glasgow's bow, the MaskonemtCs sfern, the East Boston's hulk, and the grinning ribs of the well-fastened Guith, ure f^potting the sands, each svith its tale of l;J8t adventui-e, hardships p.issed, and toil eiiiiured. The whole picture Is set in a silver-frosted frame of rolling surf and sea- ribbed sand "' " Mounted upon his hardy pony, the solitary patrol starts upon his lonely way. He rides up the centre valleys, ever and anon mounting a grassy hill to look sea- ward, reaches the West-end bar, sp«!culates upon perchauie a broken spar, an empty bottle, or a cask of beef strjiggling in the land-w:ish, — now fords the shaliow lake, looking well for his land-range, to escape the hole where H iker was dro»vned ; and roniing on the breeding-ground of the countless birds, his pony's hoof with a reck- less -iina-ih goes crunching through a dozen eggs or callow young. He fairly putH his pony to her mettle to escape the cloud of angry birds which, arising in countless numbers, dent his weather-beaten tarpaulin with their sharp bills, and snap his jtonv's ears, and confuse him with their sharp, shrill cries. Ten minutes more, and he is holding hard to count the seals. There they lay, old wean's flocks, resting their wave tossed limbs, — great o;ean bulls, and cows, and calves." (Dr. J. B. (ilLlM.N.) For over a century Sable Island has been fimous for its wild horses. They num- ber perhaps 400, and are divided into gings which are under the leadership of the old males. They resemble the Mexican or Ukraine wild horses, in their large heads, shag:.ty necks, sloping quarters, padiling gait, and chestnut oi piebald colors Once a > ear the droves are all herded by daring horsemen into a large pound, where 20 or 30 of rlie best are taken out to be sent to Nova Scotia. After the horses chosen for ex- porUition are lassoed and secured, the remainder are turned loose again. Since Sable Island was first sighted by Cabot, in 1497, it has been an object of terror to mariners. Several vessels of D'Anville's French Armada were lost here; and among the many wrecks in later days, the chief have been those of the ocean steamship Georgia and ti»e French frigite V Africainc. In tiio year 1583, when Sir Humphrey Gilbert was returning from Newfoundland (of which' he had taken possession in the name of the English Crown), his little fleet became entangled among the slioals about Sable Island. On one of these outlying l».irs tiie .ship Delii^ht struck heavily and d ished her stern and quarters to piei^es. The otfleers and over 100 men were lost, and 14 of the cresv, after drifting about in a piiinaee for many diys, were finally rescued The other ve.s.sels, the Sfjuirrel and the Uotf/fti Hin'I, bore olf to .sea and .set tneir course for England. But when olf tiie Az ires tlu! S'luirrel was sorely tossed by a tempest (being of only 10 tons' burden), ami upon her deck was seen Sir Hump.irey Gilbert reading a b(X)k. As she swept past tue Golden HinrJ,t\m brave knight cried out to the captain of the latter: " Courage, my lads, we are as near heaven by sea as by land." About midnight the S(jiiirrfl plunged heavily forward into tlie trough of the sea, and wentdo.vn with all on board. Thus perished tiiis " resolute soldier of .lesus Christ, .... one of the noblest and best of men in an age of great nw^n " In l.")ii8 a futile attempt at colonizing Sable Island was made bv " L« Sieur Baron de Loiiet du St. Just, Vit mte de Gueu." But he left some live-stock here that tifterw;ird'< saved many lives. In the year 1598 the Marquis de la Roche was sent by Henri IV. to America, car- rying 'JOO'couvicls from tUe Freach prisons. Ue aetermia^U to found « wttlemeut 136 Route SI. NEW GLASGOW. > on Sable iHland, and left 40 of his men there to commence the work. Soon after, De lu Roche wiwi forced bv stresH of storm to return to France, abandoning theiw unfortunate lotoniHts. Without food, clothing, or wood, they cufftTcd intens«-|y until partial relict' wan brought by the wrecking of a French ship on tlie i.'(il-skin8, atnl living on fish. Tiien King Henri IV. fent out a ship under Chedotcl, and the I'J survivorH, gaunt, Hquulid, and long-bearded, were carried back toFrance, wiiere they were pardoned and rewarded. An attempt wjis made ai)out the ndddle of the 16th century to coloniw Cape Un- ton in the interests of Hpain, but the tieet that was transporting the Spaniards uiiil their property was dashed tu pieces on tfable Ittiaud. ii 31. St. John and Halifax to Fictou. By the I'ictou branch Railway, which diverges from the Intercolonial Railway at Truro. A.80, by Oxford & Fictou Short Line. sttatloiis. — 115. St. John to Truro, see Routes 16 and 17. Halifax to Truro, see Route 17 (reversed). The train runs K. from Truro, and soon after leaving the environs, enttis a comparatively broken and uninteresting region. On the 1. are the roll- ing foot-hills of tlie Cobequi- ping wharves of the Albion, Intercolonial, Acadia, and Vale (^)al Com- llauds (see Uoute 49) ; and for Souris and Georgetown, P. E. I. .1 :»»: jngaged }uudries he East offices ilauso. After the divine Glooscap (see page 106) had left Newfoundland, whore lie conferred upon the loons the power of weirdly crying when t.»cv necilcd hi-« aid, he landed at Pictou (from Piktook, an Indian word meaning" Bubbling,"' or •'Gas-exploding," and referred to the ebullitions of the water near the great coal-beds). Here he crciited the tortoise tribe, in this wise : Great festivals and games were mad(i in his honor by the Indiana of Pictook,but he chosti to dwell with a homely, lazy, and despised old bachelor named Mikchickh, whom, after clotliiug in his own robe and giving liim victory in the games, he initiated as the progenitor and king of all the tortoises, smoking him till hia coat became brown and aa bard as bone, and then re- ducing ins size by a rude surgical oijerition. The site of Pictou was occui)ie I in ancient times by a populous Indian village, and in 1763 the French made futile prop-intiona to found a colony here In 1765, 2i)0,'i(K) acres of land in tiis vicinity were granted to a company in Philadelphia, w'lunrc b mds of settlers c vme i \ 1 767 - 71 Meantime tlie site of the town had been given to an army officer, who in turn sold it for a horse and saddle. The Pennsyl- vanians were shearteued at t'lc severity of the climate and the infertility of the .sisted on fish and venison, with a little Hour from Truro, until the next spring, when they sent a ship-load of pine-timber to Britain, and planted wheat and potsitoes. Soon afterwards they were joined by 15 destitute families from Dnnifriesahire : and at the close of the Revolutionary \Var many disbanded soldiers settled here with their findlies. In 1786 -he Rev. ,Iame« McGregor came to Pictou and ma e a home, and aA he was a powerful preacher in m 1 38 Route Si. ANTIGONISH. the Gaelic language, many Highlanders finm the other parts of the Province moved here, and new immigrationR Rriived fW)m Scotland. In 1788 the town was com- menced on its prt'sent site by Deacon Patterson, and in 1792 it was ninde a shiro- town. OreaL luantities of lumber were exported to Britain between 18U6 and lH2o, during the pjTiod of European convulsion, when the Baltic ports were closed, and while the British navy was the nmin hope of the nation. The place was captured in 1777 by an American privateer. Coal was discovered here in 1798, but the exporta- tion was small until 1827, when the General Mining Association of London iN'gan operations. J. W. Dawson, LL. D , F. R 8., was born at Pictou in 1820, and graduated at the University of liklinburgh in 1840. He studied and travelled with Sir Charles L\ell, and has l)ecome one of the leaders aniung the Christian scientists. His greatest wmk was the " Acadian Geology." For the past 20 years he has been Principal of the McGill College, at M'>ntreal. 32. St. John and Halifax to the Strait of Canso and Cape Breton. This comparatively new route leave.-: the Intercolonial R.ilway (Pictou Branch) at New Glasgow (see page 138), 104 M. from Halifax, ami 258 M from St. John, and runs down lo the Strait of Can.so, where it connects with a steam ferry-boat to (ape Breton, and vt-ith steamboats to various ports on the island. A trip eastward by this route, and a voyage on the Bras d'Or, gives a deeply interesting excursion. Stations. — New Glasgow to Glenfalloch, 5^ M. ; Merigomish, Of; French River, 13J; Piedmont, 18; ,\vondaIe, 22 ; Barney's River, 23.}; Marshy Hope, 26; James River, 80.} ; Bri«!rly Urook, 34}; Antigonish, 40 ; South River, 45 ; Taylor's Roiid, 47; Pomquet, 50; Heatherton, 52i ; Afton, 50 ; Tracadie, GO: Giroirs, rd] ; Little Tracadie, 65 ; Harbor au Bouche, t)i> ; Cape Porcupine, 09 ; Strait of Canso, 74. ExpreK;i-train8 run daily, leaving New Glasgow after the arrival of the train from Halifax. On reaching the open country beyond New Glit.sgow, tlie rond passe? on for several miles through an unintt^iestinir region of small farms andreciMit clearings. Ai the crossing of the Sutherland liiver, a road diverges to the N. Iv, leading to .\ffri(^oiniih^ a shipbuilding hamlet on the coast, with a snle and well-sheltered liMrl)or. In this vicinity are iron and coal deposits, tiie latter of which are worked by the Merigomish Coal Mining Company, with a capital of $400,000. Ileyond the hamlet at the crossing of French Hiver, — " which may have seen better days, and will probably see wor.«e," — the road ascends a long ridge which overlooks the Piedmont Valley to the N. E. 'I'henco it descetids through a snfTicioutly dreary country to the relay-house at Afdrsin/ flo/te. *' The sun has set when we come thund(>ring down info the pretty Catholic vlllnjte of AlltlKonlHli, tlie ninn on the island. The twin sloiu' towepK of the unflnislieil caHu'dril loom up hirge in the fa.Mng light, hml tlie bishop's paliwe on the hill, the; home of'th«' IU>» if Antigoninh were a part of the world. IIow they uiuat look down on Marshy Hope and Addington Forka and Trauadie ! What a charming place to live in iB this ! " (Baddeck.) Antigonish^ (two good inns), the capitul of the county of the flame unmc, is situated at the liead of a long and shoal harbor, near St. George's Bay- Some shipbuildi g is done here, and many cargoes of cuttle nnd butter are sent hence to Newfoundland. On the E. shore of the hnrbnr are valuable deposits of gypsum, which are sent away on coasting- vessels. The inhabitants of the village and the adjacent country are of Scottish descent, and their unwavering industry has made Antigonish a j)rospcrous and pleasant town. The Colleye of St. Francis Xnvier is the Diocesan Seminary of the Kranco-Scottish Diocese of Arichat, and is the re-idence of the Bishop. It is a Catholic institution, and has six teachers. The Cathedral of St. Nlnian was begun in 1867, and was consecrated Sep- tember 13, 1874, by a Tontificid High Mass, at which 7 bishops and 30 priests assisted. It is in the Roman Basilica style, 170 by 70 ft. in area, and is built of blue limestone and brick. On the fumade, between the tall square towers, is the Gaelic inscription, Tiyhe Dhe (" the House of God "). The arched roof is supported by 14 Corinthian columns, and the interior has iniraerous windows of stained glass. The costly chancel-window rep- resents Christ, the Virgin Mary, and St. Joseph. There is a large organ, and also a chime of bells named in honor of St. .Tose|)h and the Scottish (iaiiits, Nnnan, ('(diiniba, and Margaret, (^ueen of Scotland. This splen- did structure is not too large for the numerous congregation every Sunday frcni the village and surrounding country, mostly Highland-Scotch, who fro(iuently hear sermons in their own (iaelic tongue from the Cut'.ie- dral i)ulpit. A few yards from the Cathedral there is a neat three- st(»ry building recently erected for a Lfolits* Acndtmy, to be conducted by the Montreal Sisters of the Congregation. The other drnoniinations having churches in Antigonish are the Presbyterians, the Anglicans, and the Baptists. The Tresbyterian Church, on Main Strtet, is a handsome structure with a tall spire. The village has two branch banks and two weekly newspapers, — The Aunnui, liie organ of the Hish(»p of Arichat, and The Cngket. The county has a pojnilation of 18,100, devoted chiefly to agricultural pursuits. Its capital is a pretty village with pleasant ilrivcs in the vicinity. Nearly all the people of the c<)unty do their shop- ping in the village, and hence the numerous stores along its main street, some of them large brick buildings. The harbor is ill-suited for shipping, but the railway now supplies the deliciency. f el i \\ I .intiuontth, n.ii." accent UP. the latt syllublf It \* »u Inttiuii word, mcaniiif; "ihc U'wvr ui UO Route Si. TRACADIE. ' . Staged run daily firom Antigoni^h S. to Sherbrooke by Lochaber and College Jjake. N. VV. of tho Tillage arc thu bol.i and pifturenque highland8 loi g known a«i thb AntiKonlMh !VItit<) projecting from the lioe of the coast about 15 M. N. into the Ouir. They are, in d')me plm-e^, 1,000 ft high, and htive a Htrong and well. uiarkt'd mountainous ciiaracter. .Semi-\v«M!kly utajre^ run N fvoui Antigonish to A/o/T/.s/o»r/i and f/''<>rr//'ri//f', resp«'ctivciy 10 a«id 18 M distant. 8-10 M. N. o{ the latter is the bold promontory of C.'ipH St. Cirei>rsr«N on which, 400 ft above the sea, ifl a powerful revolving wiitu light, wliicl> is Tisiltlu for 25 M. at pea. Frnni thl-t point a road runs S. W. to .\f I'l/wiiif doiui, which i< also accessible by a ro- mantic road through tlie hillit from Autigonish. Thi'* is a finiall seaside htinilct which derives its name fro::.! the fact that II. B. M. frigaUj Mdliifnanf was ovrv caught in the.se narrow waters during a heavy storm , and was run ashore here in onii r to avoid being dashed to pieces on t;ie iron-bound coast beyond. 4-5 M. bcumd the Cove Is ArifCiiff, a romantically situ-ited settlement of Scottish Catholics," who named their new home in memory of Arisaig, intlio Westtirn Highlands. It Iihs a long wooden pier, under whose lee is the only harbor and shelter against eosi-wiuds between Antigonish and Merigomish The first important station between Antigjonish and the Strait is Heatherton, a Franco-Scotch district of 2,000 inhabitants. A daily staj^e connects the railway at this station witii Guyshorout/h, a town on tlie Atlantic coast, about 20 M. S. of Heatherton, and the capital of the county of Guyshorongh (see pa.ce 1'3'J). Tracndie is in a French district of 1,180 inhabitants. There is a monastery here, portaininj; to the aus- tere order of the Trappists Most of the monks, between 40 and 50 in luini- ber, are from Helgium. They are exceHent farmers, and have their hind thoroujjhly cnhivated. Tliere is also a Convent of Sisters of Charity in the vicinity. The pe pU; of Tracadie, like all the 41.21!) French inhab- itants of Nova Scotia, belong to the old Acadian race, whose sad and romantic history is alluded to r- igelinc aj)pear, Is. T:>e village two chn relies rniinuj*, on the laniers. heen founded 800 M. nearer deep and apa- of bituminous CAPE BRETON. The island of Cape Breton is about 100 M long by 80 M. wide, and has an area of 2,000,000 acres, of which 800,000 acres consist of lakes and swamps. The S. part is low and generally level, but the N. portion is very irregular, and leads off into unexplored highlands. The chief natural peonliarities of the island are the Sydney coal-fields, which cover 260 square miles on the E. coast, and the Bras d'Or, a great lake of salt water, ramifying through the centre of the Island, and communicating with the sea by narrow chaimels. The exterior coast line is 276 M. long, and is provided with good harbors on the K. and S. shores. The chief exports of Cape Breton are coal and fish, to the United States; timber, to England; and farm-produce and live-stock to Newfoundland. The commanding position of the island makes it the key to the Canadas, and the naval power holding these shores could control or crush the com- merce of the Gulf The upland soils are of good quality, and produce valn!il)le crops of cereals, potatoes, and smaller vegetables. The Editor trtists that the following extract from Brown's " History of the Island of Cape Breton" (London : 1869) will be of interest to the tonrixt : " The summers of Cape Breton, say from May to October, may ohiilleiige comparison with those of any country within the temperate regions of the world. During all that time there are perhaps not more than ten foggy days in any part of the island, except along the southern eoiif t, betweo i the Gut of Canso and vScatari. Bright sunny days, with halinv westerly winds, follow each otherin succession, week after week, while the midday heats are often tempered by cool, refreshing sea-breezes. Of rain there is seldom enough; the growing crops more often suffer from too little than too much." " To the tourist that loves nature, and who, for the manifold beauties by l.ill and shore, by woods and waters, is happy to make small sacrifices of personal comfort, I would commend Cape Breton. Your fashionable, whoso main objiu^t is company, dress, and frivolous pleasure with the gay, and whose only tolerable stopping-place is the grand hotel, iiad better content himself with reading of this island." (Noblk.) The n'\me of the island Is deriv 1 from that of its E. cape, which was given in honor of its discovery by iVetoM mariners. In 1713 the French authorities bestowed upon it the new name of L' fsle Roijale^ during the ! i:: 142 Route S3. THE STRAIT OF CANSO. reign of Louis XIV. At this timo, ftfter tho cession of Ac ;s(1ia to Mie Brit ish Crown, many of its inhnbitiuits emigrated to Cnp? Protosi ; mv\ in August, 1714, the fortress of F.onisbourg was founded. Durinf the npxt hnlf-conturv ofcnrrcd the tcrrildo wars between France '«• i ^iieai; ivritair;, whoce chief invidonts were tlie sic'ies of Lonisbonrg and Use Hnu] donw.i. ti-,11 of that vo(li»ubtabl(* fortress. In 17()5 this ishmd was annex*'d to the Fruvince of Nova Scotia In 1784 it was erected into a separate l^roviiice, and contitnied as such until 1820, when it was rciuniexed to Nova Scotia. Ir 1816 C'ape Breton Inid about 10,000 inluibitants, but in 1871 its popula- tion amounted to 76,503, a large proportion of whom were from the Scot- tish Highlands (see Ce); ury Mayaz'un:, July, 1884). 33. The Strait of Canso. The Gut of Can>"0, or (as it is now more generally called) the Strait of Canso, is a picturesque passage which connects the Atlantic Ocea'i with the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and separates the island of Cape Breton from tho shores of Nova Scotia. The banks are high and mountainous, covered ■with spruce and other evergreens, and a succession of small white liiiiii- Icts lines the coves on either side. This grand avenue of comniereo seems w(»rthy of its poetic appellation of "The (iolden (late of the St. Lawrence Gulf." It is claimed that more keels pass through this rhniiiicl every year than through any other in the world except the Strui' of (lib- raltnr. It is not only the shortest j>assage hetwee i the Atlantic and the Gulf, but has the advantage of anchorage in ca»-e of contrary winds and had weather. The shores are bold-to and free from dangers, and (here are sev- eral good anchorages, out of the current and in a moderate depth of water. The stream of the tide usually sets from the S., and runs in gr«,>,at swirling; eddies, but is much influenced by the winds. The strait is described hy Dawson as "a narrow transverse valley, excavated by the currents of tho drift period," and portions of its sIk ( nn; of the carboniferous epoch. The Stmit of Oiinso is tmvorsod by severftl thousjiml snilinp-vospels every year,HnJ also by tho large .steamers of tlie Boston ami I'. K. I. Steamship Compiiny. "So witli HMiewed nntiohwtHoTis we ride on fowiird tho ntridt 'of unrtviillcil beauty,' that travidlers say ' surpas.-es an.vttiin^ in Aiiu'rica.' And, indeeil,('an.road, mile-wide space between tlu'in ; and reaehing.from end toeiul, fifteen milos, from the Atlantic to the (Julf of St. Lawrence. "' (Cozzens.) Vessels from the S , bound for the Strait of Canso, first approach the Nova-Scotinn shore.T near Cope Cnnso (see page 134), whose lights ami i.^^lands are rounded, and the course lies between N. W. and W. N. W. towards Lddy Point. If a fog prevails, the steam-whistle on Cranberry Island will be heard givii -^ out its notes of warning, sounding for 8 seconds in eacl .ainutt, and heard for 20 M. with the wind, for 15 M. in calm PORT HASTINGS. RouU 33. 143 \%{x:,\i'. ;>i.tnni, weniher, and 6-8 M. in K^ormy weather and apiinst the wind. On the \, is Ch<'dabucto Hi»,y, siicioiiing in to Guysboroiifrli, lined aio.ip its S, shore t»r ii'ils 3-700 ft. higli; and on the r. the Isle Madiiine i^ soon iipproarhed. 28-30 M. bcyontl ('ape Canso the vessel pn^s^"^ ^'- ''*'// P< • >t. oi: wMicn art two fixed white lights (visihle S M ). On tlie stailtonril o.'.un is .lanvria IsImikI, lieyond wImcIs is the broad estnary f>t' /lahiffints IiIaiid wei kly, call at Port Hawkesbury, toiu-liii.^ rtt the wharf of the Mras d'Or steamhuats, and niakiui; dose and sure c"'n* noetions with them. Thev leave for Ho^ion e«'erv I'n lav. Port Hastings ( //"s/m///t nonse), is .3 M. above Port Haw I.^fmry, tm the Cape-Hielon shore, and is built on the I.IulTs over a small hari>or, It derives its chief interest from being the point where the Atlaniic-CaMc Coiiipaiiy transfers its messages, received from all pai s of Europe and delivered under the sea, to the Western Union Telegraph Coinpanv, by which tlie tidings are sent away through the Doiniuion and the United Slates, MaiUStauea. — The ShoroMne loaves Port Hiistln on arrival of pxpresn- trniiiM fn)iii rlie west, reaehiiin Port ll'tod at I> e. M . Ma ou at 11 p M., .Mirnnn'o lit 7 \. M.,a.iil ('li«>tioaiiip at noon. Port llitMlin^cs to iV)rr IIooil. .I'l ^l., fare $2 ; t.) Miihoii. 10 .M., $2M); to Stnithlonie, 48 .M., $8.50 ; to MarKam- llurhor, HO .M., $'> : to ('li<'fi<-ainp, Kd M., $t). U*>tuniini;, tlut staifo ioiiv«'s (In tiraui]) at .0 A. M., Mtirjriin-e at 9 a. M , Mabou at 3 «'. M., and Port Mood at f) p. M. The \ ic oria line of Htages leavt^s Port HaHtingx on the arrival of the express- train frniii Truro, ami reaches Kinjj;-viil« (U M., .1^1) at 7 P. M : Milfonl ('27 M., *l.r»()) at H 30 p. M. ; \Vhveooonuij(h (35 M , f'i.Wl) at 10 p. m. • nuears later a Dutch vessel entered Canso, and excited the terri- ble hostility of the Indi.ins by rifling the graves of tht ir dead in order to strip off the beaver-skins in which the torpses were wrnjipcd Pontgrave cruised about thtsc waters for a long time, protecting the monopolized fur-trade. A fortress and rendezvous for fishermen was soon established near Cape Canso, at the harbor of Canso. In 1688 the Canso station and the s(dcnfary fishery were plundered by an expedition from Boston, consisting of a crew of \Ve.>-t-lndian pri- vateersnien. They entmd these waters in a 10-gun vessel called a bnrralonud , and carried away a French shii> from the harbor. After the conquest of Acadia, the New-linglanii fisluruHn occupied the harbor of Canso, and erected dwellings aiul warehouses. In 1720 the settlements were attacked at night by pow«rful Indian bauds, and lonipletely jdundercd, though most of the fishermen escujted to their vessels. TIk.n loaded sevenil French ve^sels v Lh the proceeds of the raid, and then retired to the fore* t In 17ti2 the Massachusetts fishi!ig->essels were captuied here by the Indians, and \Nere followtd by ariiicd vessels of that Province, who letook them after u naval battle. H. M S. Sijuirnl seized some illegal French tradf rs here in 1718 ; and in 1724 a pi'ize-vessel was boarded by the savages in the Gut of Canso. and all its ctew were killed or captured. During the subsequent peace New Fngland liiul 1,6(jO- 2,(00 n.en here in the fisluries, and in 1738, 46,000 quintals of dr\ fish were exported hence. Wlic!.- the var-clou a later day Comniodore Warren arrived h«'re with the British West-Indian fl^t, ihe Superb,,Q^, Launceston, 40, Mermaid, 40, EnhanK and other ships. The Briti li war-ve.-.'-r' Little Jack, 6 guns, was cruising about the Strait of Can.-o in 1781, when Aw s :' 1 Iavo 'larblehcad privateers. Securing a favorable position near Petit de Gra? , .i shc»ro-bat'>Ty was fornied, and the cutter was anchored with spiings on her cable. After a sli«.< p action, one of the privateers was crippled and lore • d to sunender, aiid the o'lur mlhIc h'vste to escayie. The Americans were paroled at Petit de (irat, and th<" .essri v is iiiken to Quebec. After the close of the American Revolution, the S. end of the Strait of Canso vua occupied V a colon;, of Lo.Milists from Florida, who suflereu terribl,> front the com- parative .iicleniency i)f the ciimi;te. The piesent inhabitants ol the,^e shores are mostly <( Scottish descent, a hardy and ..itrepid people. So late as the year 17S7 there NviH not one settler on the Breton side oi the strait, and the immigration baa irostly occurred during the present century. ARICHAT. Route ^4' 145 Hand of Cape I strait to its 10 fathoms of a, I'ghthousp, le water, and id the word is ling cliffs " It inso, signifving Ml here. II«'n; lOKup (Fee pngt! k a niiglity wiz- ore hiui across isar, on all the able and enter- ' Plj mouth was a settlement on lere. Savak-ttc r 15fi3 ; and in z) trading with Xf ited the terri- Jer to 8tiip off i8cd about tbf^e ■ Cape Cani-o, at iry fishery W( re Vef-t-lndian pri- harraloiiiin , and of Acadia, the I dwellings aiul lowjrful Indian (•iil)ed to th»'ir raid, and thm iptuu'd hereliy lo K'tonk tlu'ni trad' rs heie in ut ol'Canso.and \v J.nghmd had of dr\ fish wne Ihitish liad Ino ait as a giiiini- n, French Aca- ppereil leaclud V. and (\)ni'(< ti- cn and ficciiiig itli the British hani and other trait of Caii.-o in position mar red withspiiiifjs "(1 and for(( d to paroled at I'etit lit of Canso viia , from vhe com- hese Hhores are 18 the year 17S7 uimigration baa 34. Arichat and Isle Madame A mail-stage runs daily from Port Ilawkesbury to Arichat, 30 M. S. E., passing near the sea-shore hamlets of Caribacou and Lower River Inhab- itants, and approaching the Scottish village of Grand Anso. At the French (ishiiig-settlement of Grand Difpie, the passenger Is ferried across the Lsnnox FassagOi a long and picturesque strait which separates Isle Madinie from the Breton shores. Steamers run from Halifax to Arichat. Isle Madame is 16 M. in length from K. to W., and about 5 M In liiTadtli. Its surface is very irreguhir, though of but moderate elevation, ami the central piu't is occupied by a smtill lake. It was settled over a century ago, by exiles from Acadia, whose descendants now occupy the land, and are pious Catholics and daring seamen. In llCiO the French explorer of Isle Madame found 113 inhabitants here, " who live as they can," on a sterile soil, and barely inaintaiiiej by soinc petty fisheries. He closes his account by saying, " We quitted this country with no regret, except that we must leave there so many miserable people.'' Arichat {Finlny's f/itel, $ 1.50 a day), the capital of Richmond (^ounry, is the most important tishiug-station between Halifax and St. John's, New- foundland. It has over 1,000 inhabitants, most of whom are of Acadian- French origin, and are connected in some way with the sea. The fisheries of which this port is the centre are connected with the great establish- ments on the Isle of Jersey (in the English Channel), like those of Cheti- camp, Gaspd, and Paspebiac. There is also an American firm located here, engaged in the canning of lobsters. The town is scattered along the steep N. shore of a spacious and secure harbor, which is sheltered by Jerseyman Island, and is " capable of containing any number of the largest ships." The spacious Catholic church in the W. part of the town is pro- vided with a chime of bells, and "s the seat of the Coadjutor Bishop of Arichat, whose diocese includes Cape Breton and the E. counties of Nova Scotia. It is claimed that *' The Sisters of 'he Congregation of Notre Dame, of Montreal, have a grand tind flourishing academy for female edu* cation of the highest order in the town of Arichat." E. of the cathedral is the Kiohmond County Court-House, surmounted by a cupola. There ore also an English academy and an Anglican church in the town. On the S. W. is seen the lighthouse, beiu'ing a fixed red light, which guides mari- ners through the Grid Passage and into the harbor. Arichat has abundant boating and fishing facilities. The favorite drive i^ the tree-arched Grandique Road. Gnnul Lake, favored by picnics, is surrounded by stately forests. The Sea-View and Ocean Houses charge $\ to S7 a week. Steamboats run to Arichat from Mulgrave. To the W. Little Arichat extends along the coast, with 1,600 French In- habitants. E. of Arichat is the Acadian fishing-hamlet of Petit de Grat, with 2,000 inhabitants; and D'£scousse is another place of similar pursuits, across the Bav of Rocks. 7 ' 9 I 146 Route 35. ST. PETER'S. . 35. The Strait of Canso to Sydney, C. B. The direct route is by the new Cope-Breton Raiiiray ^aee paye 1G6). By the way of tht Land^ throuyh Ht. Ftter's The Royal niail-8tii)ro loaves Port Il.lwk(^'"^)ury every mnrnlnp, some time after the arrival of the Antignuisli i^tage, and runs E. anU \. E. to .Sydney. Fare, * 5. This is one of the motit arduous routes hy which Sydney ean be appnwu'hed, and leads through a thinly wftled and uninterestiujr rountry until .^t. I'eter's is reached, lieyond that point there is a series of attraetiv*' views of the Great Bras d'Or and .St. Andrew's Cliannel, (ontinuinj; almost to Sydney. liiHtanccH. — (Port Hastings to Port Hawkesbury, 4-5 M ) Port Hawkeshury to Grand Ause, 21 M. ; St. Peters, 3o ; Rod Islaud, 52: Irish Cove, 64; Sydney, 100. »>.»/. There is but little to interest the traveller during the first part of the journey. After leavinji Tort Hawkesbury, the stage enters a rugged and unpromising country, leaving the populous shores of Canso and pushing E. to the River Inhabila'nts. Crossing th:'.! stream where it begins to nar- row, the road cot)tiinie.'5 through a n'gion of low bleak hills, with occasional V!. s, to the r , of the deeper coves of the Lennox Passage. Before noon it readies the na.Tow Haulover Isthmus, which separates St. l*eter's Bay, on the Atlantic sioQ, from »t. Peter's Inlet, on the Bras d'Or side. At this point is situated the village of St. Peter's, a Scottish settlement near the bay. The canal which has been constructed here to open couuuunication between the Atlantic and the Bras d'Or is ^ M. long, 26 ft. wide, and l.'J ft. deep, and is expected to be of much benetit tutlie Bras d'Or villages It haM been tinished within a tew years, and ( ertains to the Govennnent, which takes a small toll fn in the \ easels passing through. S \\. of St. I'eter's are the blutt heights of Mt. Granville, and to the N. W. are the uninhab- ited highlands which are called on tlie maps the Sl)orting Mts. St. Peter's was founded by M. Penys, about the year 1036, to command the lower end of the Bras d'Or, -^s his po.^r at St. Anne's conmianded tlie upper end. He built a portage-road here, )poned farm-lands, and erected a fort which mounted several cannon Tht ."ndians residing on the most remote iiruis of tin* »iras d'Or were tliu.s enabled to visii .ind carry their fnrs and fish to either one of Denys's forts. Denys himself, together witii th'.' fort, the ship, and all other i)roperty here, was captured soon after by a naval fon c .'<'nt out by M. ie Borgne. But in IflotJ Denys retook his posts, gtiariled by a charter from King liOuis. A few .\ I'urs later St. I'eter's was captured by lia (Jiraudierc, but was atTerwards restored to Denys, who, however, abandoned the island aliour 1670, when all his buildings at this post were destroyed by tire. In 1737 St. IVter's was fortified by M. de St. Ovide, tlie comnsandaTit at Louisbourg; but (hiring the New- England crusade against tlie latter city, in 174'), it was captured and plundered by Col Moulton's Massadiusetts regiment. In 17'j'2 St. Peter's was the chief depot of the fur-trade with t!ie 3Iicmacs, and wjus sur- rounded with fruitful farms. It was then called Port Toulovse ^ a.ni\ wn\» connected with Louisbourg by a military road 18 leagues in length, con.'-trncted by the Count de Raymond. Besides tlie garrison of Fn-nch troops, there was a civil population of 230 souis ; and in 1760 Port Toulouse had grown to be a larger town than evm Louisbourg itself. The King of Fnince afterwards reprin'unded the Count de Rjiy- niond for constructing his military road, saiying that it would afford the English an opportunity to attack Louisbourg on the hmdward side. From the Strait of Canso to Grand Kiver the coast is occupied by a line of humble and retired villages, inhabited by Acadian-French fishermen. 7-8 M. S. E. of St. Peter's ai-e the VArdoise settlements (so named because a slate-quarry was once worked here). In 1760 there was a large French village here, with a garrison of THE BRAS D'OR. RmiteSS. 147 troops, and L'ArdoiRe was the chief depot of the Air-trade with the Indians. At Gnind River tbt <'hanicter of the population chanf^es, though the nanieH of the set- tl»'ineut would iutlicatt!, were iiirttory silent, that the townn Inj^ond that point were originally foumled hy the French They are now occupied exclusively Ity the Scotch, whose liglit vessels put out from the harbors of (trand River, ii'Archevfeque, St. Ksprit, Blanclxtiotu*, Framboise, and Fourchu, on wliich are fishing-villages. A few miles N, K. of St. Poter's tho stiif^o crosses the liidian Reserva- tion ne r Louis Cove Chaptl Island is a little wuv off shore, and is the liirgest of the group of islets at the mouth of St. Peter's Inlet. These islands were granted by the government, in 1792, to the Micmac chiefs Bask and Tomma, for the use of their trihe, and have ever since been re- tained by their descendants. On the largest island is a Catholic chapel where all the Micmacs of Cape Breton gather, on the festival of St. Anne, every year, and pass several days in religious ceremonies and aboriginal games. Beyond this point the road runs N. E. between Soldier's Cove and tlie bold highlands on the r. and traverses the Ked-Island Settlement, off wliich are the Red Islands. " The road that skirts the Arm of flold i.s about 100 M. in length. After leaving Sydney you ride i)eside the Spaidsh River a sliort disUmce, until you come to the portage, which sepanites it from the lake, and then you follow the delicious curve of the great beach until you arrive at St. Peter's There is not a lovelier ride by white-pebbled beach and wiile stret<'h of wave. Now we roll along anddst pri- meval trees, — not the evergreens of the sea-coast, but fandliar growths of maple, beech, birch, and larchc'*, juniper, or hackmatack, — imperishable for shipcraft ; now we cro.^s bridges, over sparkling brooks alive with trout and salmon To hang now in our curricle, upon this wooded hill-top, overlooking the clear ourface of the lake, with leafy island, and iwMdnsula dotted in its depths, in all its native grace, without a touch or trace of handiwork, far or near, save and except a single spot of sail in the far-off, is holy and sublime.'' (Cozzens.) About 10 M. beyond the Red Island Settlemeut is the way-office and vil- lage at Irish Cove, whence a road runs 10- 12 M. S. E. across the highlands to the Grand-River Lake, or Lock Lomond^ a picturesque sheet of water 6-6 M. lon^, studded with islets and abounding in trout. The Scottish hamlets of Loch Lomond and Lochside are on its shores; and on the N., nnd connected by a narrow strait, is Loch Uist. The road crosses the lake and descends to Framboise Harbor, on the Atlantic coast. N of Loch Uist, and about 7 M from the Bras d*Or, is a remarkable saline spring, ?ontainnig in each gallon 343 grains of chloride of sodium, 308 of chloride of cal- 'iiun, and 9 of tiie chlorides of magnesium and potassium. This water is singularly free from sulphurous contandnation, and has been found very efficient in cases of asthma, rheumatism, and chronic headache. There are no accoumiodations for visitors. About 6 M. N. \V. of Irish Cove is seen Benacadie Point, at the entrance to the East Bay, a picturesque inlet of the Bras d'Or, which ascends for 18-20 M. to the N. K., and is bordered by lines of bold heights. Near its N. shore are several groups of islands, and the depth of the bay is from 8 to 32 fathoms. The stage follows its shore to the upper §nd. Above Irish Cove the road lies between the bay and a mountain 600 i\. high, be- yond which is Cape Rhumoi'e. 8-4 M. farther on is Loch an Fad, beyond which a roadside chapel is seen, and the road passes on to £doobekuk, 148 Route 96. THE BRAS D'OR. between the heights and the bine water. The opposite shore (4 M. dis. tant) is occupied by the Indians, whose principal vilhijfe is called Kscasoni^ and is situated near the group of islands in Crane Cove. The bay now diminishes to 2 M in width, and is followed to its source in the lagoon of Tweednogie. The aggregate number of inhabitants, Scottish and Indian along the shores of the Kast Bay, is a little over 2,000. The stage crosses the narrow Isthmus (4-6 M.), and then follows the line of the Forks Lake and the Spain'sh River, to the town of Sydney. Sydney, see page 160. .H I r . !'| 36. Halifax to Sydney, Cape Breton. £y the iout the middle of the lost century tlic British frigate Tilbury, CA, was caught on this sliore during a lieavy gale of wind, and was unable to work otT, in spito of the utu10^•t exertions of her gi'eat cnw. The Tilbury Hocks, off St Esprit, still conm eniorato the place where she Anally t-truck and went to pieces. 200 sidlors V ere cither drowned or killed by bciuji: dashed on the sharp rocks, and 200 men and 16 officers were saved from the waves by the Frencli people of St. £sprit, wlio nour- ishetl and sheltered tliem with tender (are. England and France beint? then at war, tlie survivors of the Tilbury'' s crew were de.»'))atched to Frannrh ships Nntrf Dmnedela D^'irrnnrr, Ijiuix l^rnsmf, and Marquis d'Atitiii sailoil from Calliio (INtu), with a v.ist niiiDiint of Invisurw on hojird, con- cealed under a surliu'c-carno of c«mm»ii. The two latter were ciiptureil otT tlie Azores by the Hrifi-'lJ privateers Frhi'i' Frul'rirk- ami Dnkf, hut during the 3 hours' action the Notre l)ii)ni> escaped. Not dariuK to approach the French coiust while so many Jidstile privateers wen* crnlsinn about, she crowded all sail and hore away for Louis- l»(iin>;. 20 days later she siplifed ?!catari, ami it see.uel that her valuahl > eurjfo \va-< already safe. Hut she was met, a short distance to the S , by a Itritish Hcot, and iH'canie a prize. Anion({ the people captured on the Notrf, Dnt/m wa.s Don Antiiniii dMlloa, tho famous Spanish scientiU, wljo wis kept hen? In li^ht ca|»tivity for two months, and who afterwards wrote an intere-itini; book about Vii\h' Breton. The lucky veiwels that made tlio capture were the Sumlftlantt, Boxton, and Chester^ and their crews had great priz«'-iuoney, — f)r over S4,()(X),()00 waH found on the Niitrf Dnme, in bars and ingotti of gold and nilver In 17iV5 the French frigate Arc-i n-Cifl, 50, and tho Amitii were captured In these waters by II. B M. ships CV/Ui/rio/iand Surress. In .Inly, 17")*J, the French ves.seig lUrns, 74, Vluslrr, H4. and two 3>-gun frigit«*H met H H. M. ships Grafinn, 70, I\'ot- tins^ntn^ 70, nnd the Janiuira sloop, and fought from mid-afternoon till dark The action wtus indecisive, and each tl(H-t cl.aimed that the other stole away at night. The loss of men on both sides was considerable Tn M.ay, 1745, a gallant naval actio:i wis fo.igljt he«!about44 betwwn the French ship-of-the-line Vigilant and Com. Warren's fliHit, consisting of the Siip'rb (<')0-gun ship), and tho Lnimreston, Mer7>inii/,nnil EUhdw 40.gun frigates) The VinHant ss9A carrying a supply "f military goods from Brest to Louisitourg, and met the Mt- maid, standing olT and on in the fog. The latter made sail and tied toward the pquadron, and the Viiiilant swept on in the fog and ran into the midst of the British ticet. Warren's ships o|)eiied fire on every side, but tho French captain, the Maniuls de Maisonfort*, refused to surn-nder, though his decks were covered with aton's and his lower batteries wen? below tlie water-line by nsison of the heavy cargo. The battle was terrific, and lasttrd for 7 hours, while Malsonforte kept hia colors flying and tiis cannon roiiring luitil all hi^ rigging was cutaway by the British shot, the rudder was br«>ken, the forecastle battered to pieces, and great numbers of the crew wounded or dead. The steamship now runs out to rounl Scntari, travorsinp waters which maintain a uniform ). It is believed that Cape Brt'ton was first visited by the Mnrigohl (70 tons). In l''»'.>3; whereof it Is written : '• Here diuers »)f our men went on land vpon the very cape, wliere, at their arriuall they found the spittes ofoke of the Sauuges whicli ha vv>>, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // 1.0 I.I L^12.8 150 ^^ U Hi 2.5 2.2 1^ 1^ iu. u WE 1.25 1 1.4 \h -< 6" ► Hiotographic Sciences Corporation as WIST MAIN STRUT WHSTM.N.Y. MSIO (716) •72-4303 1^ *^^ 150 Route 36. SYDNEY. and foundsd a town on the harbor of Baleine, S. E. of Cape Breton. The headstrong Scottish noble was arbitrary in his dealiiiga with the French fishermen on the coast, and was goon attacked by u f-tronfr body of Normans. The armor-clad Scots for a time defended their fort bravely, but were at last compelled to surrender, and were carried ofT us jjrif^oners, including Lord Ochiltree, who was plundered of all that he possessed, and was sent to France in the hold of the Great f'8 were sent into New England. In 1720 a mine was opened at Cow Eay, whence tlie French army at Louisbourg was supplied, and numerous cargoes were shipped to Boston. Between 1745 and 1749 the British garrison at Louisbourg was abund-intly supplied with fuel from mines at Burnt Head and Little Bras d'Or, which were protected against the Indians by fortified outposts. The Abb6 Raynal says that there was " a prodigious demand for Cape-Breton coal from New England from the ye:ir 1745 to 1749."' But this trade was soon stopped by the British government, and only enough mining was done to supply the troops at Louisbourg and Ilalifix, The " coal-smugglers'" still carried on a lucrative business, slipping quietly into the harbors and mining from the great seams in the face of the cliffs. In 1785 t'.ie Sydney vein was opened by Gov. Des- barres, but its profitable working was prevented by heavy royalties. The Imperial Government then assumed the control, and its vessels captured many of the light craft of the smugglers. In 1828 the General Mining Association was formed in Lon- don, an > secured the privilege of the mines and niinerals of Nova Scotia and Cape Breton from the Duke of York, to whom they had been granted by King George IV. Under the energetic management of the Association the business incrcjased rapidly, and became profitable. Between 1827 and 1857 (inclusive), 1,931,634 tons of coal were mined in Capo Breton, of which 605,008 tons were sent to the United States. Between 1857 and 1870 there were sold at the mines 3,323,981 tons. By far the greater part of these products came from the Sydney field, but of late years consid- erable exportations are being made from the minbourg soon had a large trade with France, New England, and the West Indies. The harbor was guarded by a battery of 30 28-pounders, on Goat Island ; and by the Grand (or Royal) Battery, which carried 30 heavy guns and raked the entrance. On the landward side was a deep moat and projecting bastions ; and the great careening-dock was opposite. The land and harbor sides of tlie town were defended by lines of ramparts and bastions, on which 80 guns were mounted; and the West Gate was overlooked by a battery of 16 24-pounders. The Citadel was in the gorge of the King's Bastion. In the centre of the city were the stately stone church, nunnery, and hospital of St. Jean de Dieu. Tlie streets crossed each other at right angles, and communicated with the wharves by five gates in the harbor- ward wall. The fortress was in the first system of Vauban, and required a large garrison. Early in 1745 the Massachusetts Legislature determined to attack Louisbourg with all the forces of the Province ; and Gov. Shirley, the originator of the enterprise, gave the military conunand to Col Wm. Pepperell. ^Massachusetts furnished 3,250 men ; New Hampshire, 300 ; and Connecticut, 500 ; and George W'hitefield gave the motto for the army, " Nil desperawlum , Cliristo dure,'''' thus making the enterprise a sort of Puritan crusade Tiie forces were joined at Canso by Conunodore Warren's West-India ticet, and a landing was soon effected in Gabarus Bay. The garrison con- sisted of 750 French veterans and 1,500 militia, and the assailants were "4,000 un- disciplined militia or "oluntrers, officered by men who had, with one or two excep- tions, never seen a shot fiied in atiger all their lives, encamped in an open country, .... and sadly deficient in suitable artillery." The storehouses up the harbor were set on fire by Vaughan's New-Hampshire ;nen ; and the black smoke drove down on the Grand Battery, so greatly alarming its garrison that they spiked their guna and fled. The fort was occupied by the Americans and soon opened on the city. Fascine batteries were erected at 1,.550 and 950 yard-< from the West Gat«, and a breaching battery was reared at nigiit within 250 yards of the walls. Amid the roar of a continual bombardment, the garrison made sorties by .sea and land; anil 1,500 of the Americans were sick or wounded, 000 were kept out in the country watching the hostile Indians, and 200 had been lost in a disastrous attempt at storming the Island Battery. Early in June, the guns of the Circular Battery were all di"*- mounted, the King's Bastion had a breach 24 feet deep, the town had been ruined by a rain of bombs and red-hot balls, and the Island Battery had been rendered un- tenable by the American cannonade On the 15th the fleet (consisting of the Superb, Sunderland, Crmterbury, and Prince.^s Mnri/, (50 guns each ; and the Launceston^ Chester, Lark, Merwaifl, Hector, and E'tlinm, of 41) guns each) was drawn up off the harbor; and the army was arrayed " to march witli drums beating and colours flying to the assault of tlie West Gate " But (Jov. Duchambon saw these ominous preparations and surrendered the works, to avoid unnecessary carnage, " As the troops, entering the fortress, beheld the strength of the i)lace, tlieir hearts for the first time sank within them. ' God has gone out of his way,' said they, 'in a re- markable and most miraculous manner, to incline the lie.irts of tlie French to give up and deliver this strong city into our hand.' "' Pepperell attributed his success, not to his artillery or the fleet of line-of-battle ships, but to the pra3ers of New Eng- land, daily ari.sing from every village in behalf of the absent army. •' The news of this important victory filled New England with joy and Europe with astonishment " Bo.ston and London and the chief towns of America and England were illuminated ; the batteries of London Tower fired salutes; and King George II. made Pepperell a baronet, and Warren a rcar-udmiral. (For the naval exploits, see page 149.) 4,130 French people wei'e sent home on a fleet of transports; the siege-batteriea were levelled, and 266 guns were mounted on the repaired walls ; and in the follow- ing April the New-England troops were relieved by two regiments from Gibraltar, and went home, having lost nearly 1,000 men. The historian SmoUet designated 156 Route 3S. THE FOUTRES:^ OF LOUISBOURO. : (, • I the capture of LouisboHrg, " the most ImportAnfc af'hi«>vl(%and on whidi the French ('rown had oxpondo I inniionso sinus ; . . . . that 4,(KH> rustic militia, whose officers wore ai« inoxporioiood in war as their nioii, althoUKli supported hy naval foroos, should conquer tho rojfulnr troops of tho proatost ndlitiiry power of the ajfo, and wn'st from thoir hands a place of unusual strength, all appear little short of ndraolo.'' (Hkamisii Muhimx n ) So keenly did the Frenoli govonunont fo gn-nt French Armada was sent out in 174t> to retake it and to destroy Hoston. After tho disastrous failure of this expedition (see page 91*), '••'• .h)nquicn» wius despatched with 16 men-of-war and 28 othi'r vessels, on tho same en-and, but was attacked by the fieots of Anson and Warren off Cn\w Finisterro, and los?^ M slups of war, 4,(XK) men, and $ 8,t)(K),(HX) worth of tho oonvoye«l carg(K>s. In 174J> tin; war was ended, Louisttourg and Capo Uroton wen* restonni to Franco, and ''after four .\ears of warfare in nil parts of tin' world, aft«r all the waste of blood and treasure, tho war ended just where it began." When war broke o\it again between England and France, in 1765, Louisbotirg was blockaded by the ♦^oot of Admiral Hoscawon. England soon Kont 11 lino-of-battlo ships, a squadron of frigates, and 50 transports, bearing ti.lHM) soldiers, to nnluce the fortress ; but France wa,s too pnnnpf to bo surprised, and hold it with 17 sail of tho line and 1(>,(X10 men. Tho vast English tioot got witldn 2 M. of Louisbourg and then recoiled, sailed to Halifax, and .«oplies Ur»>at Britain now fitto(i out an immense fleet nt Spithcnd, consisting of tho Natmir, 90 guns : Royal William, ?.0 ; Prinrfss Anidia, HO ; Tirrihle, 74 ; the North- umbcrianr/, Oxford^ BiirfhnI, Vanaiianl^ Snitifiset, and iMnra.stcr, 70 guns each ; the Dtvoit.shiie, Er(//(ir(/, Captain, i\ml I'rinre Fredrrirk^VA each; the Pembroke, Kingston, York, Prinre of (haiise, Dffinnrc, and Nottitii^liam, i)0 guns each; the i'eniurion and ISut/ierlanfL 50 each: the frigates Juno, liranivwut, I^ightin^nh, Hunter, Boreas, Hntd, Trmt, Port Mahon, Diana, Shannon, Kenninglon, Stni- borough, S<]uinrl, Hauk, K^avtr, Ti/loe, ni\d Hali/ar : an\\ the fire-ships Etna and Lightning There were also 118 transports, carrying 13.(500 men, in 17 regiments. Boscawen conmiauded the fleet, Amherst the army, and Wolfe wiui cue of the briga- diers. This powerful nmiament soon nppean^d off Louisbourg, and at dawn on the 8th of June, 1758, the British troops landed atGabarus Bay, and pushed througli the fatal surf of Freshwater Cove, aniid the hot fire of the Fnnich shore-batteries. After losing 110 men they carried the ontronchmonts at the point of the bayonet, and the Frencli fell back on Louisbourg. The fortress had been greatly strengthened since the .^iofje of 1745, and was deCcndcd h\ 3,4(K) men of the Artillery ami the regiments of Volon- taires Etrangers, Artois, Bourgogne, and Cambise, besides large bodies of nulitia ami Indians. In the harbor were tho shi|is-of-war, Prndint,li ; Entreprenant, 74; Cnpricieux , iS\ \ I i!cbrf,{\A \ Bienf'aisant, (c4; Apollon, oO; Dia/J«;,3C; Aritliuse, 86; Fidelf, S(j\ Eclio,S2: Fiehe,i6; and C/idvre,m. Wolfe's brigade then tx'cupiod the old Lighthouse Battery, and opened fire on the city, the French tioot, and the Island Battery. The latter was soon con:plotoly de- stroyed by Wolfe's tren endous cannonade ; and since the harbor was thus loft unguarded, Gov. Drucour sank tho frigates Diane, Apollon, Biclie, Fidcle, and C/t^vre at its entrance. Meantime the main army was erect ng works on Oreeu Hill and opposite the Queen's and Princess's Bastions, under the tire of tlie French ramparts and ships, and annoyed on the rear by the Indians During a bloody sortie by the French, the Earl of Dundonald ami many of the Grenadiers were killed. The heavy siege-batteries wen* julvanced rapidly, and poured in a crushing fire on the doomed city, destroying the Citadel, the West Gate, and the barrack.-*. The magazine of the Entttpnnant, 74, blew up, and the Capricieux and Celcbre, THE FORTRESS OF LOUISKOURO. Route 38. 157 catching the Are In their sails, wore burni'd at their moorings. The Arilhuse and Echn mil out of the harlmr in foKH.v weather, but the latter was eaptiired. Only two Kr'Mioh fViK''l^<'-' remained, ami these were both captured by boats from the tieet, after a dariiiK attack. On tlie '2(!th of July the Ohevalicr de |)rucoiir siirn-ndered the city witli T),*)-'}? men, 23 5 pieces f>f artillery, and innnense anioiintH of stores and flupplies'. The French li;id ly the great licet and army of <}en. Wolfe gat!iered at bouisbourg and .sailed away to tlie ('on(|uest of ('anada. IL'ilifax was a fine naval station, and it wafl deemed inexpc lient to maintain a costly garrison at liouisbourg; so sapin-rs and miners were sent there in the summerof l7)S|)ital, and a barnick capable of lodging 3IH) men All the artillery, aniniiuiition, stores, implesnents, — in short, everything of the slightest value, even the hewn stones which had decorated the public buildings, were transported to Ma ifax." The Briti-ih garrison was witiidrawn in ITiiH, and after the foundation of Sydney •* the most splendid town of La Nouvello Franco " was completely deserted by its people. During some years past a scheme has been agitated whose fulfilment would restore Louisbourg to more than lis firmer importance. It is proposed to conHtruct a first-class railway from this point to some st.ition on the IMctou llraneh of the Intercolonial Hallway, ero.«.sing the Strait of (!anso cither by a lofty suspension- bridge oi a steam ferry-boat on wiiich the trains vould be carried. It is thought that the freight and pissenger receipt.s from the coal-mines and the settlements on the territory traversed would more than defray tiie cost of construction and mainte- nance. The projectors then intend to make Louisbourg ii port of call for the ocean- steamships, for who.se use this .s.'ife and accessible harbor is peculiarly adapted. This port is on the ()()th parallel of VV. longitude, ami Is 11 degrees E of Boston and 14 de- grees E. of New York, or so much farther advanced on the routo pn^ro 102) by wliirh to visit St. Anne's The (iistnnee is iibout 10 M. to tiie licnd of the hiirhor. The first part of tlie way leads alnn^ the shores ol" Had(!o(d; l^ay, with tlio protnontorv of Heel Head over \\w water to the r. The road then crosses u cold distriet of denuded highlands, and descends to the * ]'ti//t i/ <[f t>t. Anne. As the harbor is appro: ehed, the traveller can see the aniphitheatriod glens in which the great Holy Fairs or annual relif^iou;* cotnniunions of the people are held. These quaint Presbyterian eanip-nieeting.s are said to be a relic of the ancient churches in the Seottish Highlands. Tlio shores of the harbor were occu])ied in 1J^20 by innnigrants from the High- lands, who are now well located on comfortable farms. The road follows the S. Arm, and to the 1. is seen the N. Arm, winding away among tlio tall mountains. Just K. of the N. Arm is St. Anne's Mt. which is 1,070 ft, high, and pushes forward clilVs S)00 ft. high nearly to the water's edge. " There is no ride on the continent, of the kind, so full of picturesque beauty and constant surprises as this around tl'e indentations of St. Anne's harbor. High blulVs, bold shores, ex(]uisite sea-views, mountainous ranges, delicious air," are found here in abundance. About ojjposite the light- house on the bar, at the mouth of the harbor, is Old Fort Puntj on which the Kreneh batteries were est blished. Near this point is the hamlet of En<]lishiown, chiefly interesting as containing the grave of the once famous " Nova-Seotia Giant." The mountains back of Englishtowu are over 1,000 ft. high, and run N. E. to Cape Dauphin, whence they repel the sea. Imnxy^i^ Sailiiuj Directions states that " on the N. side the land is very high, and ships-of-war may lie so near the shore that a water-hose may reach the fresh water." As to the harbor, the ancient description of Charlevoix still holds good: — " Port Pto. Anne, ns already st«te«1, has before it a very sure roadstead between the Oibou Islands. The port is almost eonipletoly rlo,«ed by a tongue of land, leav- ing passage for only a single ship. This port thus closed, is nearly two leagues in circuit, and is oval in form. Ships can every diere a}>proaoh the land, and scarcely perceive the winds, on account of its high banks and the surrounding mountains. .... The fishing is very abundant ; great quantities of good wood are found there, such as maple, beech, wild cherry, and especially oaks very suitable for building and mast.<«, being 28-3S ft high; marble is common ; most of the land good, — in Great and Little Labrador, which are onlv a leagn -^ and a half off, the soil is very fertile, and it can contain a very large number of settlers.'' In St. Anne's Bay the English ship Clinnreivill wa.s wrecked in 1597, and while she lay aground " tiiere came aboord many shallops with store of Freticli men, who robbed and spoyled all they could lay their hands on, pillaging the poore men euen to their very shirts, and vsing them in sauage manner : whereas they should rather as Christians haue aided them in that distresse." In ir)2y this harbor was occui)ied by the Grtnt St. Amlreir and the Marguerite., armed vessels of France, whose crews, together with their English prisoners, constructed a fort to conunand the entrance. It was armed with 8 cannon, 1,800 pounds of powder, pikes, and muskets, and was garrisoned by 40 men. The commander of the tieet raised the arms of the King and of Cardinal Richelieu over its walls, and erected a chapel, for whose care he left two INOONISH. Route 39. 159 JefiuitA. IIo then named the harbor St. Anne's. Beftm* the done of that winter iiion; than one third of the troopH died of the Mvurvy, and the conunandHiit aHHSH* Minuted IiIh Iieut4>nant on tlie pariule-t^roiintl. In 1>).«es which came from the shor^. Finally the outraged laws of the Province were vindicated by the occupation of Ingonish by a body of troops, who.stf duty it was to restraio tfaiit 160 Roide 39. ST. PAUL'S ISLAND. I I moose-huDterit at whatever cost. Of late years the tnoose have been nearly exter- minated by city sportsmen ami by the Indians, who kill them while helplessly en- tan};U'd in the deep snow-drifts. The scenery between Uaddeck and Ingnnish resembles that of the North of Scotland, but U even more picturesque. Many officers from the Halifax garrison have sought its niooso and trout. The highwny ends at Ingonisli, and a trail crosses the mountains to the N. N. W. to Aspy Bay, an open bight of the sea, into which several large lagoons empty. A specie-ship was wrecked oiY t'lis bay early in the pres- ent century, and for many years coins were thrown ashore during heavy »torm». In 1856 the first Atlantic Cable was landed here. On the N. W. shore of Aspy Bay is the lofty Sugar-loaf Mt., beyond which Cnpe N(rrth runs out to the N. E., 1,000 ft. high. Cape North is 8 M. S. E. by E. from Cape St. Lawrence, and between these two points is the St. Lawrence Bay, on whose remote shores are about 400 inhabitants, while about Cape North are nearly 800 more. Between Cape North and Cape Ray, NewfouncHand, the distance is 66 M., and through this wide strait is the middle entrance to the Gulf of St. Lawrence. St. Paul's Island. St. Paul's Island is 13 M. E. N. E. of Cape North, and is a vast mass of rock, 3 M. long and 1 M. wide, bearing three peaks 500 ft. high, sur- rounded by tall cliffs which reach far below the water, and indented by the Trinity and Atlantic Coves. The cod, mackerel, and seal fisheries around the island are very valuable; and the adjacent waters are of great depth, and form a constant current to the S, E. St. Paul's Island has 9 inhabitants; a fixed white light (visible for 20 M.) on the N. point; a pro- vision depot for wrecked sailors in Trinity Cove; a steam fog-whistle in Atlantic Cove; and on the S. point a revolving white light of the first class, visible for 20 M. This island has been one of the most fetal points on the Atlantic coast, stretching, as it does, across such an important route of n.arine travtl. Thousands of lives have been lost here, and human bones formerly strewed the beaches, while anchors, chains, and other relics of disaster were found in the neigliboring waters. The Acadians of Cheticamp need to visit the island every spring, in order to secure the valuable parts of cargoes and wrecks which the sea threw up on the shore. Among the largest of the vessels lost here were the Horatio, Canada, Duncan, Venus, a transport with 200 soldiers (all drowned), the ocean-steumship Korivegian, and the ship Jeasie^ The latter was wrecked in mid-winter, and 30 of her people were lost ; but 11 reached the shore, and wandered about until thoy were all frozen to death. With the present system of lights, whistles, and cannon, most of the danger of this island is removed. "■ A dome of inhospitable rvTck peers through the mist, one of nature's peniten- tiaries, which no living man voiild own and so has been deeded to St. Paul : Melita is Eden to it. Tl ? saints, it appears to n;e, have been gifted with the ruggedest odds ond ends. Wherever, on all tht'fc cast-iron shorels, there is a flinty promontory, upon which Proniethcus himself would have shuddered to be chained, there the nan e of an apostle has bei-n transfixed. Yonder is Cape North, the stony arrow- head of Cape Breton, a headland, rather a multitudinous group of mountain head- lands, draped with gloomy giandtur, ajrainst the black cliffs of which the surf is now firing its snowy rockets All in all, this is a fine termination of the pic- turesque isle Steep and lofty , its summits e'-e darkened by steepled evergreens, and its uaDy sides gashed with horrid fissures and ravines." (L. L. Noble.) THE BRAS D*OR. Route 40* 161 40. The Bras d'Or Lakes. {See end of page 166.) The "Inland lioufa'* betircen Stfflveif and nalifnr. There nro Bevcral Bteaniers plyiuR on the Bras J'Or, making tliiilv trips in sumnier. They leave Port Mulgrave, on the Strait of C.inso, after the arrival of the Halifax nmll-train.and mn out tastward, by Isle Madame, and up St. Peter's Bay. Traversing the rerenJ^ completed St. Pet«'r's Oanal by St. Peter's vilbge, the boat.M descend St. Pete" Inlet, by Chapel Island and the Micmac Indian Ri-servation (for nil this region, seft pages 146-7), and run out into the Great Bras d'Or After visiting the vaiioua ports on the lakes, they round Point Acnni, and run around to Sydney daily. The agent at Halifax can give particulars of sailings, etc. The construction of the rail- way from New Glasgow to the Strait, and of the canal, have made the Pras d'Or very accessible, and removed the trials which hedged about this deliehtful t-ip The routes taken down the lakes are various. We give the old route of thi Nep tune^ although the usual journey now is down the Great Bras d'Or. After leaving the wharves of Sydney, the steamer passes up to N. Syd- ney, where she makes a short stop, then runs to the N. E. out of Sydney Harbor, with the shafts and vilhige.s of the Sydney Mines on the I. After rounding Cranberry Head *he course is N. W. for 8-9 M., in the ocean, passing the surf-beaten Bird Rock on the 1., while the stately mountains towards St. Anne's and Ingoiiish (see page 159) are seen in advance. When within 2-3 M. of Point Aconi the ves.sel turns in to the 1., and soon enters the strait called the * Little Bras d'Or, a narrow and river-like pas- sage through which the tide sweeps rapidly, and which is impassable for large craft. The water-view is sometimes limited to a few score feet, so tortuous and landlocked is the channel ; and there are several small and picturesque hamlets on the shore, mostly inhabited by immigrants from the Hebrides. On the r. side of the channel is Boularderie Island, which is about 35 M. long by 2-8 M. wide, and supports a small farming population. In 1713 this rich and beautiful island was granted by the French Crown to M. de la Boularderie, an officer of the French navy, who had greatly dis- tinguished himself in the defence of Port Royal and of Placentia. It is now occupied by Highlanders, who number about 1,300, and have several small hamlets. On the N. end of the island is the coal-field of Point Aconi, which has not been operated for .several years. The * Great Bras d'Or is the channel on the W. side of Boularderie, and is always used by ships and large coasters bound into the lakes. It has from 5 to 38 fathoiis of water, and is much grander in scenery than is the E. channel. The lake-steamers usually traverse this strait, rounding Point Aconi, and approaching the sea-repelling mountains of St. Anne's and Iiijj;oni.-^li. On the N. are seen the Ciboux Islands, sheltering St. Anne's I>;iy (see page 158), and marked by a revolving red-and-white light, which is visible for 14 M. On the r. the dark and wind-swept Cape Dauphin is approached, terminating, in a peak 1,045 ft. high, the massive ridge which occupies the peninsula of St. Anne. Beyond the lighthouse on Black Rock Point (1. side), the steimer passes through a strait ^ M. wide, and then enters the Great Bras d'Or, which is 1-3 M. wide, and is followed to the , ^ i 162 Route 40, BADDECK. M ii S. W. for nearly 30 M., between the mountains of St. Anne and the high- lands of Boularderie. The Neptune soon traverses the narrow channel of the Little Bras d'Or and enters a broader bay. Be^'ond Grove Point it reaches a beautiful sound whicli is followed for 25 M., and is 8-4 M. wide. (It is called St. Andrew's Channel on the Admiralty charts, but that name is elsewhere ap- plied to the Kast Bay.) Near George Mt., on the 1., are the low shores of Lonj? Island; and the steamer sometimes stops off Beaver Harbor, or Bois- daU ^lie course is now laid towards the W. shore, rounds Kempt Head, tl i. cx' 'emity of Boularderie Island, and passes Coffin Island on the r., bv ond ' tiich is seen the long channel of the Great Brp.s d'Or. The course is n "' N. W., and lies between Red Head (r. side) and Macka,y Point (1. Bid , v.iich are about 3 M. apart. In front is seen the village of Baddeck, whue inside of the points Baddeck Bay extends to the r. and St. Patrick's Channel to the 1. Baddeck ( Telegraph House ; Loch Rae Ffouse ; McLean House) is the capital of Victoria County, and the chief villnge on the Bras d'Or. It has four churches, a court-house, and a government building, and is the centre of a group of farming-settlements. Tlie harbor can accommodate vessels of 500 tons, and from this point several cargoes of produce are annually sent to Newfoundland. This locality was first visited by the French, from whom it received the name Bedeque, ^XncQ Scotticized to ^rttZc/ec^' ( accent on the last syllable). It was first settled by the disbanded soldiers of the Royal Rangers, and in 1793 there were 10 inhabitants here. Near tho village are the summer- homes (»f Prof. A. G. Bell, of Washington, and George Kennan, the Sibe- rian traveller. - i " Although it was Sunday, T could not but notice thrxt Baddeck was a clean- looking village of white wooden houses, of perhaps 7 8(K) inhabitants ; that it stretched along the shore for a mile or mere, strapglinp off into farm-houses at each end, lying for the most part on the sloping ourve of the bay. There were a few country-looking stores and shops, and on the shore three or four rather decayed and shaky wharves ran into the water, and a lew schooners laj' at anchor near them ; and the usual decaying warehouses leaned about the docks. A peaceful and perhaps a thriving place, but not a bustling place '* Having attributed the quiet of Baddeck on Sunday to religion, we did not know to what to lay the quiet on Monday. But its peacefulness continued. I have no doubt that the farmers began to farm, and the traders to trade, and the sailors to sjiil ; but the tourist felt that he had come into a place of rest. The pron\ise of the red sky tiie evening before was fultilled in another royal day. There was an inspira- tion in tlie air that one looks for rather in the mountains than on the sea-coast, it seemed like some new and gentle compoutid of sea-air and land-air, which was the perfe'tion of breathing material. In this atmosphere, which seems to How over all these Atlantic isles at this season, one endures a great deal of exercise with little fatigue ; or he is content to sit still and has no feeling of sluggishness. Mere living i- M kind of hiippiiie^s, and the eisy-going traveller is satistied with little to do and less ^o ^ee. Ix-t the render not understand that we are reconmiending him to go to I'aldeck. Far front it There are few whom it would pay to go a thousand miles for t'le sake of sitting on the dock at Baddeck when the »\\n goes down, and wntching the purple lights on the islands and the distant hills, the red Hush on tho horizon and on tlie lake, and the creeping on of gray twilight. You can set* all this as well elsewhere ? I am not so suie. There is a harnionv of be-Mitv about the Brtis d'Or at Baddeck which is lacking in many scenes of more pretension.' ^Charles Dudley Warners Baddeck; and that Sort of Thing.) DCC th( wit lifel wij de custi BADDECK. Route 40. 163 Ion. The tourist who stops at Baddeck should visit the Indian village which occup es a grassy point near the town. It pertains to one of the clans of the Micmac tribe, and usually has 12-15 wigwams. Visitors are received with a not unkindly indiirerenco, and may here study Indian domestic life, the curious manner of carrying babies, and the architecture of the wigwam. Some of the people can talk Knglish. The visitor should en- de ivor to see one of the Mi mac Catholic prayer-books, printed (at Vienna) in a singular hieroglyphic, and bought by the Indians at the Trappist mon- astery in Tracadie. 'Hie camp at Baddeck is broken up in the autumn and the people retire to their reservations near the hunting-grounds. The Micmacs of Nova Scotia and Cape Breton still retain nuiny of their ancient customs, and are of purer blood than any other tribe on the Atlantic cojist. They number about 1,600 (and 1,4(X) in New Brunswick), and occupy several reservations in the Province, where tliey are cared for and protected by the Dominion govern- ment. Under this paternal care (stronjrly contrastinjj with the Indian policv of the United States) the abori;;ines are steadily increasing in numbers and ap|)roaching a better standard of civilization, and are loyal and useful subjects of their "great mother," Queen Vietoria. The discipline of families is we'll preserved by the use of corporeal punishment. Warm parental affection is a strongly marked feature, and the subordination of the women is still maintained, thon<.;h amelior.ited by the in- fluences of civilizjitinn. The Micmacs have exchanged their fonner belief in and worship of the hostile principles of goo olic Church, of which they are devout communicants. Their language has many curious verbal coincidences with that of the Gaelic race, and is said to be " copious, flexible, and expressive '" Philologists have also traced a marked analogy between the Greek and Micmac languages, basing thereon a sharp rebuke to llenan's flippant attack on the aboriginal tongues of America. Baddeck to Whycocomagh, see Route 41. Baddeck to St. Anne's Bay, see Route 39. A road runs from this point nearly N. for 10 M. to the *brks of the Big Badij^ipck River, where trout are found. To the N. are the Baddeck Mts., an unexplored and savage highland region which ex- tends for 100 M. to the N., as far as Cape North, with a bnadth of 15-25 M. This mountain-region has boun a lavoriie limiliiig-gntund for moose and caribou, which are now carefully preserved by Provincial game-laws; and it also contains bears, wolves and foxes, rubb.ts and hares, beaver, mink, and nmskrats. The Baddeck Falls, on the north fork of the Big Baddeck River, reached by a pleasant drive of about 10 M., are verv beautiful, and have been com- pared with the (Crystal Cascade in the White Mts. They are situated in a narrow g*>rge, whose precipitous sides are high enough to give an idea of grandeur as well as picturesqueness. The Mitrr/uree lih'cr may be reached from Baddeck (in 28 M.)bya picturestjue road, ascending the long valley, and crossing the Hunter's Mt., with fine views over the r.ras.d'Or. The pleasant rurt\l district of tlie Mi Idle Valley is then traversed, and the road loads through a rcmark- nble pass of the hills and enters the rich valley of the Mnrgjirce, famous for its fishing (see Route 42). Visitors to this district usuallv board in the farm-houses, where plain and substantial fare is given. The Middle River lies to the W. of Baddeck, and is approached by the Wbyco- conmgh road (Route 41). The vallev has over 1,0 iuhiibitants, of Gaelic High- land race, many of whom are unac(juainted w ith t. e Knglish language. Near their Ce tlements aie proliPc tront-str^ams. where fine sport may be enjoyed in the early gunniier. The chief settlements are respei tively 12, Mi and 16 M. from Baddeck, ad nca^ the head of the ri er is an i;ndeveioped gold district. A few niijes up thif ■01 >Vi li 164 Rcute Ifi. THE BRAS D'OR. l;X'l river is " a Gaelic settlement of farmers. The river here flows through lovely mead> 0W8, sandy, fertile, and sheltered by hills, — a green Eden, one of the few peaceful Inhabited spots in the world. 1 could conceive of no news coming to these High- landers later than tlie defeat of the Pretender. " In 1801 the total population of the Island of Cape Breton was 2,513, including Englishmen, Acadians, and Micmacs. Tn 1802 the first emigrant-ship arrived at Sydney front Scotland, and since that time over 25,000 Scottish immigrants have landed and settled on this island. They rapidly spread over the W. coast and occu- pied the shores of the llras d"Or and its connwted waters, and Cape Breton is now, and probably will ever be, a Scottish land. After the dispersal of the Highland claoa and the final pacification of Northern Scotland, the chieftains and nobles found it more profitable to devote their esbites to cattle-raising than to maintain the old ten- antry system. So thousands of poor tenant-farmers were expelled from their hold- ings and their ancient homes to malie room for deer-parls or sheep-farms among the glens. Driven forth against their will, they crossed the Atlantic to settle on the New- World shores, in a fairer but less honored land. The selfish policy of the powerful nobles depopulated broad districts of the Highlands. *' Many who had friends in the colonies, and linew what they had to e.xpect, emigrated with great alacrity ; but thousands, who had no such desire on the contrary the greatest repugnance to leave the land of their fathers, the familiHr hills, and the green slopes of Lochaber, were heart-broken at the idea of being separated from them by a thousand leagues of raging sea." This hardy rural population is p«Muliarly adapted to develop a new country like Cape Breton, and can also endure the great fluctu- ations of the climate, which range from 32'' below zero to 9fi° aitove. The descend- ants of these immigrants are superior to the native Highlanders, both phy.'ically and mentally, and pay more attention to the education of their children and to the general estate of the nation On leaving Baddeck the stenmer runs out nround Mackny's Point, and ascends the * Lit tit Bras (V Or Lake, to the S. W. This sheet of water is 5-6 M. wide, and is bordered on the E. by the peninsuhi of St. Andrew and the hills back of Sun.icadie and Christmas Island, and on the W. by the h'ghland? of the Watchabaktchkt peninsula. *' The most electric American, heir of all the nervous diseases of all the ages, could not but find peace in this scene of tranquil beaut;,, and sail on into a great and deepening contentment. Would the voyage could last for an age, with the same sparkling but trnnquil sea, and the same en- virotnneiit of hills, near and remote. The hills approached and fell away in lines of undulating grace, draped with a tender color which helped to carry the imagination beyond the earth. '• Certainly, as we glided out upon the summer waters and began to get the graceful outline of the widening shores, it seemed as if we hnd taken passage to the Fortunate Isles It was enough to sit on deck forward of the wheel-house, and absorb, by all the senses, the delicious day. With such weather perpetual and such scenery always present, sin in this world would soon become an impossil)ility." (Warner's Badpled by Campbells and McNeils, from IJarra, in the Hebrides. The railway crosses here on a six-.vpan steel bridge, which cost $760,000. The steamer now enters the * Oreat Bras d'Or Lake, a noble expali^e of water with a depth of from 15 to 57 fathoms. It is difficult to state itw size toll neal £as river. THE BRAS DOR. Route 40. 165 in to hnd ■deck lious ill in (long itw \ size, on account of the numerous deep bays, but from the Strait of Barrn to the S. shore it is 18 M. long (N. and S.), and from Malaga wdatchlct it is nearly 20 M. (E. and W.). From the head of West Bay to the head of East Bav, a vessel could sail in a straight c»)urse nearly 50 M, " The Braa d'Or is the most beautiful Halt-water lake I have ever seen, and more beautiful than we had imagined a body of !*alt water could be The water seeks out all the low places, and ramifies the interior, runnin^;^ away into lovely bays and lagoons, leaving slender tongues of land and picturesque islands, and bringing into the recesses of the land, to the remote country farms and settlements the Havor of Bait, and the fish and moUusks of the brmy sea. There is very little tide at any time, so that the shores are clean and sightly for the most part, like those of a fresh- water lake. It has all the pleasantness of a freih water lake, with all the advan- tages of a salt one. In the streima which run into it are the sjieckled trout, the shad, and the salmon ; out of its depths are hooked the cod and the mackerel, and in its bays fatten the oyster. This irregular lake is about 1(X) M. long, If you meas- ure it skilfully, and in some places 10 M. broad ; but so indented is it, that I am not sure but one would need, as we were informed, to ride 1,000 M. to go round it, following all its incursions into the land. The hills around it are never mere than 5 - 600 ft. high, but they are high enough for reposeful l)eauty, and offer everywhere pleasing lines." (Warner's Badderk ) Soon after passing the Strait of Barra the broad estuary of the River Dcnys is seen on the r. Deep ship-channels may be followed thither, pass- ing at first through a cluster of islets, and then into the North Basin, whence the Portage Inlet runs N. to within ^ M. of the Whycocomagh Basin. The Inner Basin is 7 M. long and 2-3 M. w'de, and is sometimes visited by ships, which load here with lumber for England. The River Denvs debouches into tlie S. W. angle of this basin. There are five ham« lets of from 150 to 300 inhabitants each, situated on the basins and the river, most of the people being from the Western Isles of Scotland. The ancient Indian name for the Bnisd'Or was Bideauborh ; St. Patrick's Channel was called Ouamech; the River-Denys Rasin, Mirmini^vash ; the West Bay, Paqut' lacadie; and the Ea.st Bay, Piscnbnuash. For the convenience of trading with the numerous Indians who inhabited these shoves, M. Denys established his forts at St. Peters and St. Anne's ; but there is no record of settlements by the French on the lakes. The chief seat of the Indians is now on the shore where " Escnsoni 8 fountains Pour down tiieir crystal tide. " The beautiful basin and river of Donys were named in honor of their discoverer, Nicholas Denys, Sieur de Fronsac, who was appointed by King Louis, in 1664, " Uovernor and Lieutenant-General " of Cape Breton and the adjacent shores. When the steamer is about 4 M. from the Strnit of Barra, Benacadie Point is seen on the 1., 7-8 M. distant, below which is the great opening of the East Bay or St. Andrew's Channel, running in to the N. E. for nearly 25 M. (see page 147). 10- 12 M. below the strait is the open ng of the long and sinuous harbor of xMclafiaiodatchfcf, which approaches the marble formations of the western highlands, nnd has a village of 350 in- habitants. To the S E. nre the islands oH' St. Peter's Inlet. Opening away on the right is the S. W. arm of the (ircat Bras d'Or, which is called the Went Bay, or St. Gcorr/e's Channel, and is about 15 M. long and 7 M. wide. It contains nunierou: islands, and is separated from m , T J, '■ • .^. liiSI i 166 Houte 40. THE BRAS D'OR. the River-Denys Basin by a range of massive highlands on the N. The N. shore hills are 700 - 770 ft. high, and those on the S. shore are 250 - 620 ft. high. The shores are thinly inhabited. " The only other thing of note the Bras d'Or offered us before we reached West Bay was the finest show of medusae or jelly-fish that could be produced. At first there were dozens of these disk-shaped transparent creatures, and then hundreds, starring the wat«r like marguerites sprinkled on a meadow, and of sizes from that of a teacup to a dinner-plate. We soon ran into a school of them, a convention, a herd as extensive »is the vast buffalo droves on the plains, a collection as thick as clover-blossoms in a field in June, miles of them apparently ; and at length the boat had to push its way through a mass of them which covered the water like the leaves of the pond-lily, and filled the deeps far down with their beautiful contracting and expanding forms I did not suppose there were so many jelly-fishes in all the world." (Warner's Bar/derk.) "The scenery of the lakes Is exceedingly striking and diversified. I^ng rocky cliffs and e.«carpments rise in some places abruptly fVom the water's edge ; in others, undulating or rolling hills predominate, fringed on the shores by low white cliffs of gypsum or red conglomerate: whilst the deep basins and channels, which bninch off in all directions from the central expanse of waters, studded with innumerable islets covered with a rich growth of spruce and hemlock, present views the most picturesque and diversified imaginable" (Brown.) " So wide is it, and so indented by broad bays and deep coves, that a coasting journey around it is equal in extent to a voyage across the Atlanlic. Besides the distant mountains that rise proudly from the remote shores, there are many noble islands in its expanse, and forest-covered peninsulas, bordered with beaches of glit- tering white pebbles. But over all this wide landscape there broods a spirit of primeval solitude For, strange as it may seem, the Golden Arm is a very use- less piece of water in this part of tiie world ; liighly favored as it is by nature, land- locked, deep enough for . 'ssels of all burden, easy of access on the Gulf side, free from fogs, and only separated from the ocean at its southern end by a narrow strip of land, about ^ M. wide ; abounding in timber, coal, and gypsum, and valuable for its fisheries, especially in winter, yet the Bras d'Or is undeveloped for want of that element which seems to be alien to the Colonies, namely, enterprise.''^ (Cozzens. ) '* The climate of Baddeck in summer is delightful, the nights being always cool and the heat of the day never oppressive ; on only one occasion last July did the thermometer indicate 80^. The air has a life and an elasticity in it unknown in lower latitudes during the summer months. . . . The water-view is one of the finest to be found on the Atlantic coast. The clear blue waters of the Bras d'Or, her© seven or eight miles wide, are apparently hemmed in by ranges of monntains, which in some places rise abruptly from the water in lofty cliffs of plaster or gypsum, worn by the action of water into strange and fantastic forms. There vvliite cliffs, fringed vith dark evergreens, form, with the red conglomerate and bright green fields stretching down to the water's edge, a most beautiful picture, which is appro- priately framed witli long lines of mountains. The Bras d'Or, though an arm of the sea, has here a tide of only from six to eiirhteen inches, ko that those fond of aquatic pursuits arc not buniened with a head current wlien homeward bound." Cape Breton Convections. — The steamboat Marion leaves Sydney on Mondays, W«diiesd i\ .-, ail' F'nda.vs, calling at Boulardarie, Haddeik, Grjtnd Narrows, St. Peters, atid (JriiidMine Kerry, coniKM'tiiig with the train. Returning, it leaves Muigave ou airival of train, for S.dney, calling at above points, and connect- iiiir \v:th steamer Mni nnUn at Badfb'i k. for ^Vhv(■ocomagh and Little Narrows. The steamboat Ntptune leaves Mulgrave on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, on arrival of the train, for East Bay, calling at Grandique terry and St. Peters. Returning in time to connect with the train. The steamship Eimouski leaves Mulgrave every Monday snd Friday, for Ari- chatand Canso; Tuesdays and Thursdays, for Port Hood ; Uednesdays and Satur- days, for Ouysboro'. Ileturni g the following mornings, to connict with train. The Cape-Breton Railway runs from the Strait of Canso along the W. side of the Island to Grand Narrows, Boisdale, North Sydney, and Sydney. 'I he train leaves P^- 168 Route 4^. WHYCOCOMAGH. i whence small cargoes of produce are annually shipped to Newfoundland. Near this point is a marble cave, with several chambers 3 - 8 ft. high ; and foxes are often seen among the hills. It is claimed that variable deposits of magnetic and hematitic iron-ore have been founa in this vicinity. Stages run 30 M. S. W. from Whycocomagh to Port Hastings, on the tame and uninteresting road known as the Victorui Line. ♦' What we first saw was an inlet of the Bms d'Or, called by the driver Ilogamah Bay. At its entrance were long, wooded islands, V)eyond which we saw the backs of graceful hills, like the capes of f^on.e pottic s-ea-coast ... A peaceful place, this Whycocomagh. The lapsihg waters of the Bras d'Or n.ade a summer music all along the quiet street ; the bay lay smiling with its i lands in front, and an amphi- theatre of hills rose beyond." (Warner's Baddeck.) On leav ng Whycocomagh the quaint double peaks of Salt Mt. are seen in retrospective views, and the road soon enters the Skye «. i, a long, narrow valley, which is occupied by the Highlanders. The wagon soon reaches the picturesque gorge of the Mahou Valley^ with the mountainous mass of Cape Mabou in front. The Mull River is seen on the 1., glitter- ing far below in the valley, and erelont; the widenings of the sea are reached, and the traveller arrives at Mabou. Stages to Port Hastings, see page 143. _ — . • II -{ A steamboat runs from Baddeck to Whvcocomagh twice a week. This route is much easier for the traveller than that by the stage, and reveals as much natural beauty, if made during the hours of daylight. The; passage »f the Little Narrows and the approach to Whycocomagh are its most striking phases. turi 42. The West Coast of Gape Breton. — Port Hood and Mar- garee. The Royal mail-stage leaves Port Hastitt^s every evening, at about 4 o'clock, after the arrival of the Halifax mail-train. Fare to Port Hood, $2 ; $ 1 by steamer, in summer. Distances. — Port Hasting:? to Low Point, 7 M. ; Crefatnish, 9 ; Long Point, 14 ; Judiqne, 18; Little Judiquc, 24; Por'j Hood, 28; Mabou, 38 ; Broad Cove Inter- vale, 60 ; Margaree Forks, G8 ; Margaree, 76 ; Cheticamp, 88. The tirst portion of this route is interesiing, as it affords frequent pleas- ant views of the Strait of Caiiso a' d its bright maritime processions. The trend of the coast is followed from Port Hastings to the N. W., and a suc- cession of small hamlets is seen along the bases of the highlands. Just beyond Low Point is the Catholic village of the same name, looking out over the sea. The road now skirts the wider waters of St. George's Bay^ over which the dark Antigonish Mts. are visible. Be^'ond the settlements of Creignish and Long Point is the populous district of Judique, inha1> PORT HOOD. Route 4^. 169 k, after pleas- The suc- Jupt g out Bay, nents ihab' o ited by Scottish Catholics, who are devoted to the sea and to agriculture. The Judiquers are famous throughout the Province fjr their great stature, and are well known to the American fishermen on account of their pug- nacity. Yankee crews landing on th's coast are frequently assailed by these pugilistic Gaels, and the stalwart men of Judique usually come off victorious in the fistic encounters. The district has about 2,000 inhab- itants. Port Hood (two inns) is the capital of Inverness County, and is a pic- turesque little seaport of about 800 inhabitants. The American fishermen in the Gulf frequently take shelter here during rough weather, and 400 sail have been seen in the port at one time. There are large coal-deposits in the vicinity, which, however, have not yet been developed to any extent. The town was founded by Capt. Smith and a party of New- Englanders, in 1790. " This port affords the only safe anchorage on the W. coast of Cape Breton to the N. of the Gut of Canso," and is marked by a red-and-white light, near the highway, on the S. Off shore is Smith's Island, which is 2 M. long and 210 ft. high, beyond which are the high shores of Henry Island. A stage-road runs N. E. to Hillsborough, where it met'ts the road from Mabou, ^nd thence passes E. to Whycoeomagh (see page 167). Steamers run from Mulgrave to Port Hood every Tuesday and Thursday. Mabou (Cameron House) is 10 M. N. E. of Port Hood, and is reached by a dally stage passing along the shore-road. It is at the mouth of the broad estuary of the Mabou River, amid bold and attmctive scenery, and conta'ns about 800 inhabitants. To the N. E. is the highland district of Cape Mabou, averaging 1,000 ft. in height, and thickly wooded. The Gulf-shore road to Margaree runs between this range and the sea, passing the marine hamlets of Cape Mabou and Sight Point. There is an inland road, behind the hills, which is entered by following the Whycoeomagh road to the head of the estuary of the Mabou and then diverging to the N. E. This road is traversed by a tri-weekly stage, and loads up by the large farming-settlement at Broad Cove Intervale, to the W. shores of Lake Ainslie (see page 167), which has several small Scottish hamlets among the glens. "The angler who haa once driven through Ainslie Glen to the shores of the lake, launched his canoe upon its broad waters, and entered its swiftly running p^.reani, will never be content to return until he has fished its successive pools to its ■vbi-y mouth." A road leads out from near the W. shore of the lake to the village of Broad Cove Chapel, on the (lulf coast, traversing a pass In the highlands. The stage runs N. between the hills and the valley of the Margaree (S. W. Branch)* "one of the most romantic and best stocked salmon-rivers in the world." Beyond the settlement of Broad Cove Marsh, a road runs out to the Gulf abreast of Sea^ Wolf Jaland, on whose cliffs is a fixed light, 300 ft. 8 mi 1 70 Route 42. MARGAREE. i high. Marfjnree Forl:s is a rural village at the junction of the N. E. and S. W. Branches of the famous Margaree River, where salmon abounc? from June 15 until July 15, and rare sea-trout tishing is found. •' In Cape Breton the beautiful Miirrth And set their trawls for the hungry cod,- In the ghostly ioa creep bf ck and forth By shro'ided poths no foot hath trod ; ITiion the crews the ice-winds blow. The bitter sleet, the frozen snow, — Their lives are in the band of God ! New England : New England ! Needs sail they nnist, so brave and Jioor, Or June he warm or Wict-r storm. Lest a wolf gnaw through the cottage-door J Three weeks at home, three long months gone, While the patient good-wives sleep alone. And wake to hear the breakers roar. The Grand Bank gathers in its dead, — The deep seo-sand is their winding-sheet ; Who does not (leorge s billows dread That dash togetlier the drifting fleet ? Who does not long to hear, in May, The pleasant wash of Saint Lawrence Boy, The fairest ground where tishermen meet ? There the west wave holds the red sunlight Till the bells at home are rung for nine : Short, short the wutch, and calm the night ; The fiery northern streamers shine ; The eastern sky anon is gold. And winds from piny forests old. Scatter the white mists ott'the brine. THE LORD'S-DAY GALE. Jluuie 4^. 171 ^door I Is gon^ leet ; Inv, Vet? ?ht New Enelnnd ! New Enjrland ! Thou hivest wi-ll tliine oi-eun mnin I It sprcadt'th its locks union? tliy rot-ks, And long n^ainHt thy lieurt huth hiin ; Thy ships upon its bosotn ride And tVel the hciivinx of its tide : To thee its secret speech is i lain. Cape Breton and Edward Isle between, In strait and j?nlf the schooners lay : The sea was all iit peace, I ween. The night hcfore tluit August day ; Was never a (Jlouccster skipj^ier there, But thought erelong, with a nglit good fare. To sail lor home from Saint Lawrence Bay. New England I New England ! Thy giant's love was turned to hate I The winds control his fickle soul. And in his wraih ho hath no mate. Thy shores his angry scourges tear. And for thy chlKIreh in his care The sudden tempests lie in wait. The East Wind gat" red nil unknown, — A thick sea cloud ins course before ; He left by night the frozen zone And smote the cliffs of l^abrador ; He Uished the coasts on either liantl. And betwixt the Cape and Newfoundland Into tlie Bay his armies pour. He caught our helpless cruisers there As a gray wolf harries the huddling fold ; A sleet - li darkness - filled the air, A shuddering wa^e beff)re it rolled : That Lord s-Day ujorn it was a breeze,— At noon, a blast that shook the seas, — At night — a wind of Death took hold ! It leaped across the Breton bar, A death-wind from tlie stormy East ! It scarred the land, and wnirled afar The sheltering thatch of man and beast ; It mingled rick and roof and tree. And like a besom swept the sea. And churned the wateis into yeast From Saint Pauls Light to Edwards Isle A thousand craft it smote iimain ; And some ag'iinstitsrovo the while. And more to mnko a port were fain : The mackerel-gulls flew screaming past, And the stick that bent to the noonday blast Was split by the sundown hurricane. " The island booamc aa Gaelic as the most G.aelic part of Scotland. It continues po to this (lay. What of Cape Bn't">n i-i not Highland Scottish is Acadian French Th«* old allies of the Middle Ages live together in niity on this fair outpost of the now world. The Highland inimiRrants had a hard time of it for many a long day. They were poor, unskilled in agriculture, and utterly ignorant of woodcraft or forest life. But their vmrnle was sup<'rh Like men they set the stout heart to the stae brae. Hardy, pitient, frugal. God-fearing, they enduri'd hardships th t would have killed ordinary settlers. Gradnallv and painfVillv thoy learned to wield the axe, and to hold the plough instead of the cium.sy lioo and spade of their native isles. The lakes and streams, tlie Bnis d"Or and the rough Atlantic, gave geforous supplies of food. 'I heir log-huts in the green woods wer«^ their own And their children have exchanged the primitive shanty for comfortable frame houses, and the few sheep their fathers owned for fat flocks and hardy horses that they rear for the Sydney anred in port the gale outride? The very craft that at anchor be Are dragjjed along by the swollen tide I The great stornt-wavc'came rolling west. And tossed the vessels on its cre.'»t : The ancient tiounds its might defied 1 The ebb to cheek it had no |)ower ; The surf ran up to an untold height ; It n)se, nor yielded, hour by hour, A night ami day, a day and night ; P'ar up the seething shores it cast The wreck of hull and spar and mast. The strangled crews, — u wof ul sight ! There were twenty and more of Breton sail Fast anchored on one mooring-ground ; Each lay within his neighbor s had. When the thick of the tempest closed them round : All sank at once in the gaping sea, — Somewhere on the shoals their corses be, Tne foundered hulks, and the seamen drowned. On reef and bar our schooners drove Before the wind, before the swell ; By the steep sand-cliffs their ribs were stove, — liOng, long their crews the tale shall tell 1 Of the (ilouce-ster fleet are wrecks thre«score; Of the Province sail two hundred more Were stranded in that tempest fell. The bedtime bells in Gloucester Town That Sabbath night rang soft and clear; The sailors' childrtn laid them down,— Dear l,ord! their sweet prayers couldst thou hear 'i 'T Is said that gently blew the winds ; The good-wives, through the seaward blinds, Looked down the bay and had no fear. New England ! Now England I Thy ports their dauntless seamen mourn ; The twin capes yearn for their return Who never shall be thither twrne ; Their orphans whisper as they meet ; The homes are dark in many a street. And women move in weeds forlorn. And wilt thou fail, and dost thou fear ? Ah, no : though widows cheeks are pale. The lads 8l>all s;iy : " Another year. And we shall be of age to sail ! " And the mothers' hearts shall fill with pride, Though tears drop fast for them who died When the fleet was wrecked in the Lord'»* Day gale. PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. Prince Kdwaru Imland ' aHtod In the Houtlicrn portion of the Gulf of {St. Ii!»wrono(», nml is .,,,»!iu1"><^i <""' ^^i^** inliiiliittMl by n cliui of Ihe Mirinac IndiHtiM, who cnllod it A/m/zf/w/^ ('* Att('lif)n'(| on tho Wavo"). It was iiicludod ill tlio broad doiniiiii of Arndiii, ovi^r which I'liinco niid Kiiji^hind wjig«M| Kiu'.h there wen! about 800 inhaldtantH; and during her death- Htmj^glcH with the Anjrlo-American armies, tho l'roviiic(!of Qiiebeo drew Iarf?e HupjiliivH of f^riiin and cattle from the>e nliorcs. The capital was at Portia Joie (near Charlottetown), where thero was a batt(!ry ane of Assemblv arc on the second floor, and are handsomclv furnished and julorned with jjortraits of the statesmen of Prince Edward Island. On the same floor is the Colonud Librnry^ containing a good col- lection of books relating to the history, laws, and physical characteristics of Canada and the British Umpire. A j)leasant view of the city and the rivers may bo obtained from the cupola of the building. The Post OJice is also on Queen's Square, and is a new and handsome stone building. Just beyond is the Market lions?, a great wooden structure covered with shingles. The principal shops of Charlottetown are about Queen's Square, and offer but little to be desired. The Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. Dunstan is a spacious wooden edifice on Great George St., near the Square. The cxtens ve Convent of Notre Dame is on Hillsborough Square, and occupies a modern brick building The Prince of Wales College and the Normal School are on Weymouth St., in this vicinity. The old barracks and drill-shed are W. of Queen's Square, between Pownal and Sydney Sts., and are fronted by a parade-ground. The Gov- emment House is on a point of land W. of the city, and overlooks the harbor. In 1748 the government of the inland was vested In civil nnd military offlcers, vhos^e l•e^ideuce was estaVdished ut the W. eutmnce to the harbor of Port la Jole (Charlottetown), where they had a battery and a ^n.«ll garrison. It Is said that the first French sailors who entertd the inner harbor \.ere so pleased with its tranquil teauty that they uau.ed it Port la Joie. There were no houses on the site of the city in 1752. The harbor was held by three British fi igates in 1746, but wa.s ravaged i\ 200 Mieuiacs under the French Ensign Montesson. All the English found on the eliore were captured, but the Indians refused to attack the war-vessels. In 17G8 Morris and Deschanips arrived liere with a small colony, and erected huts. They laid out the streets of Charlottetown, whidi was soon established as the tapi- tal of the island. In 1775 it was ( aptured t)y two American war-vessels, which liad b«'en cruising in the Gulf to carry otf the Quebec s'^^oreshlps. The sailors plundered the town, and led away several local dignitaries a& prisoners, but Washington lib- erated the captives, and reprimanded the predatory cruisers. Charlottetown " has the appearance of a place from which something has de- parted; a wooden town, with wide and vacant streets, and the air of waiting fur ENVIRONS OF CHARLOTTETOWN. Route 46. 177 Romethtng. .... That the pmductiTe iHland, with itn nyntr-m nf froe nchoolA, \n nhout to enter upon a pronperouR rart'cr, and that (Miarl()tt4;t()wn Ih hoop to bsTonie n place of great activity, no on« who convcrscH with t\w natives* ran f the fMty, and overlo ks the harbor and tho rivers. It has 10 instructors and about 300 studonts. St. Duustan's Col/cf/e is a Catholic, institution, which occupies tlie crest of a hill 1 M. from the city, and has 4 professors. There are several {)retty villas in the vicinity of ('harlottetown; and the roads are very pood durinj? dry weather. Some travellers have jjreatly admired the ni-al scenery of these suburban roads, but others have reported thetn as tame and uninter- esting. The same conflict of opinion exists with regard to the scenery of the whole Island. Southport is a village opposite Charlottetovvn, in a pretty situation on the S. shore of the Hillsborough River. It is rea(died by a steam ferry-boat. 3 M. from this place is the eminence called Tea Ifillj whence a pleasing view of the [)arish and the bay may be ob- tained. A few miles be} ond is the village of Poirnnl, at the head of Pownal Bay, and in a region prolific in oats and potatoes. 46. Charlottetown to Sommerside and Tignifih. — The Western Shores of Prince Edward Island. This region is traversed by the Prince Kdward Island Railway, a narrow-gaag» road built by the Canadian government. This line was opened late in 1874. Express trains run from Charlottetown to buuuufrsidc in 2j|; hours; to Tignish in 6 hours. StatioiiH. —Charlottetown to Rt Dunstan's. 2 : Cemcte'v. 4 ; Royalty .Junction, 6: Winsloe, 6\ ; Milton, 10; Colville, 13V: N. Wiltshire, 17; Hunter River, 21; Frederioton. 25' : Elliotts, 27)^; Brendalbane, 20^ : County Lane, .32 ; Freetown, 35V ; Blueshank, 39; KonsinRton, 41 ; New Annan, 42 ; Summerside, 4f>; Miscouche, 64; Wellinajton. 01; Richmond, m\\ Northam,68; Port Hill, 71; Ellerslie, 72k; Conway, 77: Portage, Rf> ; Brae K<> t O'Le-irv. 80: Blnomfl<'ld, 95; Klmsdale, 100; Alberton, 104 ; Montrose, 108 : De Hlois, 112^ ; TiirnJ-h, 117. After leaving the comtnodious station-building, in the E. part of Char- lottetown, the train sweejts around the city, turning to the N. from the bank of the Hillsborough River. The suburban villas are soon passed, and the line traverses a level country to Royalty .function, ^yhere the tracks to Souris and Georgetown (see Houte 47) diverge to the N. E. The train now enters the main line, and runs VV. through a fertile farming country, — "a sort of Arcadia, in which Shenstono would have delighted." The hamlets are small and the dwellings are very |)lain, but it is expected that the stations of the new ra hvay wdl become the nuclei of future villages. The train soon crosses the head-waters of the York River, and reaches N. Wiltshire, beyond which is a line of low hills, extending across the island. 4 M. beyond this point is the station of Hunter Rirer, whence a much- 178 Route 46, RUSTICO. ;1 travelled road leads to the N. to New Glasgow and Rustic©, locally famous for pleasant marine scerTy. Bustioo is a qu?et inarine settlement, with two churches and a bank, and about 300 inhabitants. It is near Grand Rustico Harbor, and is one of the chief fishing stations of the N. shore. The original settlers were Acadians (in the year 1710), many of whose descendants remain in the township, and are peaceful and unprogressive citizens. The Seaside Hotel (40 guests) is a small summer hotel near the sand-hills of the beach; and the facilities for boating, bathing, fishing', and gunning are said to be ex- cellent. The great fleets of the Gulf fishermen are sometimes seen off these shores. There is a pleasant drive up the Hunter River to New Glas- gow (Rackem's inn), which was settled by men of Glasgow, under Alex- ander Cormack, the Newfoundland explorer, in 1829. The Hunter River affords good trotting. Grand Rustico Harbor is rendered unsafe by shift- ing bars of sauv On the coast to the N. W. are the hamlets of N. Rus- tico and Cavendisn. ^ From County-Line Junction diverges the Cape-Traverse Brar.ch Railway (one train daily). Kensington station is about 41 M. from Charlottetown, and is near the petty hamlet of the sjme name. To the N. E. is Grei.ville Harbor, with the estu- aries of three ri/ers, the chief of which is the Stanley. There are several maritime hamlets on these shores, and on the W. is Neio London, a neat Scottish settlement with two churches. A road also leads N. W. from Kensington to Pnncetown, a village of 4Q0 inhabitants, situated on the peninsula between Richmond Bay, March Water, and the Darnley Basin. This town was laid out (in 1766) with broad streets and squares, and was intended for the metropolis of the N. coast, but the expectations of the government were never realized, and " the ploughshare still turns up the sod, where it was intended the busy thoroughfare should be." Malpeque Harbor is the finest and safest on the N. shore of Prince Edward Island. A few miles E. are the lofty sandstone cliff's of Cape Tryon, near New Lon- don harbor. Princetown fronts on Richmond Bay, a capacious haven which runs in to the S. W. for 10 M., and contains 7 islands. Travellers have praised the beauty of the road from Princetown to Port Hill, which affords many pleasant views over the bay. Beyond Kensington the train runs S. W. across the rural plains of St. David's Parish, and passes out on the isthmus between Richmond Bay and Bedeque Bay, where the island is only 3-4 M. wide. 9 M. from Kensing- ton it reaches Summerside. Sammerside {Mawley House; Campbell's Hotel), on Bedeque Harbor, is a town of about 3,000 inhabitants, with 8 churches, 5 school^, 2 weelxly newspapers, and 2 banks. It is the port whence most of the products of the W. part of the island are sent out, and has grown rapidly of late years. The chief exports in 1882 were 600,000 bushels of oats, 110,000 bushels of potJ of tl the smf Tl and fishil the and SUMMERSIDE. HouU 40. 179 potatoes^ 10,300 bushels of barley, 86,450 dozen of eggs, and 4,337 barrels of the famous Bedeque oysters. The wharves are long, in order to reach the deep water of the channel; and the houses of the town are mostly small wooden buildings. The * Island Park Hotel is a summer resort on an islet off the harbor, and is patronized by American tourists. There are accommodations for fishing and bathing, and a steam ferry-boat plies between the island and the town. The hotel commands a pleasant view of the Bedeque shores and the Strait of Northumberland (it has been closed for some years). "This little seaport i^ intended to be attractive, and it would give these travelleni great pleasure to describe it if they could at all reuieuiljer how it looks. But it is a place that, like some faces, ni.'ikes no sort of iu.preswion on the uuujory. We went ashore there, and tried to take an interest in the siiipbuiiding, and in the little oysters which the harbor yields ; but Wii«ltier we dil take an interest or not haa passed out of memory A small, unpicturcsque, wooden town, in the languor of a provincial summer; why should we prett^nd an i.itcre.-t in it wnich we did not feel? It did not disturb our reposttful frame of u.ind, lior much interfere with our eigoy- ment of the day." (Warher'S Batlfleck.) Steamboats run across the Strait of Northumberland to Point du ChSne, leaving Sunmterside at 8 a. m. daily. On leaving Summerside, the train runs out to the W., over a level region. To the N. is the hamlet of St. Eleanors (Ellison's Hotel), a place of 400 in- habitants, situated in a rich farming country. It enjoys the honor of being the shire-town of Prince County, and is about 2^ M. from Summerside. 3 M. from St. Eleanors is the rural village of Miscouche, inhabited by French Acadians. WeUinf/ton (Western Hotel) is a small hamlet and station 12 M. beyond Summerside, near the head of the Grand River, which flows into Richmond Bay. The Acadian settlements about (Jape Egmont are a few miles to the S. W. The line passes on to Port Hill, a prosperous shipbuilding village on Richmond Bay. Near this phue is Lennox Island^ wiiich is reserved for the Micmac Indians, and is iiihal) ted by about 150 persons of that tribe. Between the bay and the Gulf of St. Lawrence is George Island, which is composed of trap-rock and amygdaloid, and is regarded as a curious geo- logical intrusion in the red sandstone formations of the Prince-Edward shores. The train runs N. W. over the isthmus between the Cavendish Inlet and the Percival and Enmore Rivers, and soon enters the North Parish. This region is thinly inhabited by French and British settlers, and is one of the least prosperous portions of the island. The line passes near Brae, a settlement of 300 Scotch farmers, near the trout-abounding streams of the Parish of Halifax. To the S. W. is the sequestered marine hamlet of West Point, where a town has been laid out and preparations made for a connnerce which does not come. The coast trends N. by E. 6 M. from West i^irit to Cape Wolfe, whence it runs N. E. by E. 27 M. to North Point, in a long unbroken strand of red clay and sandstone cliffs. Alberton {Albion //«ujft), one ot the norti em termini of the railway, is a proHp«ruu6 \iliu^°c uf bv)0 ndiabitunt.*, witli live churchee and an '4 * 1 '^»i-f m Ml 180 RouU 47. TIGNISH. American consular agency. It is situated on Gascnmpec ^ harbor, and is engaged in shipbuilding and the fisheries. The American fishing-schooners often take refuge in this harbor. The neighboring rural districts are fer- tile and thickly populated, and produce large quantities of oats and pota- toes. This town was the birthplace of the Gordons, the heroic mission- aries at Eromanga, one of whom was martyred in 1861, the other in 1872. S. of Alberton is Holland Bay, which was named in honor of him- self by Major Holland, the English surveyor of the island; and 6-8 M. N. is Cape Kildare. Tignish {Ryan't Hotel) is the extreme northern point reached by the railway, and is 117 M. from Charlottetown. It has abcut 200 inhabitants, and is one of the most important fishing-stations on the island. The in- habitants are mostly French and So»tch, and support a Catholic church and convent. There are seve al other French villages in this vicinity, concerning which the historian of the island says: "They are all old set- tlements. The nationality of the people has kept them together, until their farms are subdivided into small portions, and their dwellings are numerous and close together. Few are skilful farmers. Many prefer to obtain a living by fishing rather than farming. They are simple and in- offensive in their manners; quiet and uncomplaining, and easily satisfied. The peculiarities of their race are not yet extinct; and under generous treatment and superior training, the national enterprise and energy, polite- ness and refinement, would gradually be restored." North Point is about 8 M. N. of Tignish, and is reached by a sea-view- ing road among the sand-dunes. It has a lighthouse, which sustams a powerful light, and is an important point in the navigation of the Gulf. 47. Charlottetown to Georgetown. By the Prince Edward Island Railway. Station;). — Charlottetown; Royalty Junction, 5 M. ; Mourt Stewart, 22; Car- digan, 40 ; Georgetown, 46. Beyond Royalty Junction the train diverges to the N. E., and follows the course of the Hillsborough River, though generally at some distance from the shore. The banks of this stream are the most favored part of that prosperous land of which Dr. Cuyler says: ''It is one rich, rrlling, arable farm, from Cape East clear up to Cape North." As early as 1758 there were 2,000 French colonists about this river. The Hillsborough is 30 M. long, and the tide ascends for 20 M. Much produce is shipped from these shores during the autumnal months. About 8 M. beyond the Junction the line crosses French Fort Creek, on whose banks the French troops erected a fortification to protect the short portage (IJ M.) across the island, from the river to Tracadie Harbor. Here the military domination was surren- 1 ikucumpeCy an Indian word, meaning " Flowing through Sahd." GEORGETOWN. Houte 47. 181 dered to the British expeditionary forces. At Scotch Fort the French built the tirst church on the island, and the earliest British settlers located, From the lofty hill at St. Andrews a beautiful view is obtained over a rich rural country. The Lome House (100 guests, $7-10 a week), at Tracadie, is a favorite summer resort, 4 M. from Bedford station, facing the outlet of Bedford Bay, near grassy sand hills, a long sea-sv.ept bathing beach, "the stain- less sands of Tracadie's high reef," the lighthouse on the point, etc. Good fishing and shooting in the vicinity, which is a rich farming country. Moimt Stewart is a prosperous little shipbuilding village. The traia crosses the river at this point, and ut Mount Stewart Junction it turns to the S. E., while the Souris Railway diverges to the N. E. The country which is now traversed is thinly settled, and lies about the head-waters of the MoiTell and Pisqnid Rivers. There are several small lakes in this region, and forests are seen on either hand. At Cardigan (small inn) the line reaches the head-waters of the eastern rivers. A road leads hence to the populous settlements on the Vernon River and Pownal Bay. Georgetown ( Commercial Hotel) is the capital of King's County, and has about 800 inhabitants. It is situated on the long peninsula between the Cardigan and Brudenelle Rivers, and its harbor is one of the ' t on the island, being deep and secure, and the last to be closed by ice. The county buildings, academy, and Episcopal church are on Kent Square. The chief business of the town is in the exportation of produce, and ship- building is carried on to some extent. The town is well laid out, but \^9> growth has been very slow. Steamers ply between this port, Pictou, and the Magdalen Islands (see Routes 44 and 49). The liarbor is reached by ascending Cardigan Bay and passing the lighthouses on I'anmure Head and St. Andrew's Point. Montague Bridge (Montague House) is reached from Georgetown by ,•> ferry of 6 M. and 11 M. ot" staging. It has 350 inhabitants and several mills. To the S. E. is St. Mary's Bay. About 20 M. S. of Georgetown is Murray Harbor^ on which there are several Scottish villages. From Cape Bear the coast trends W. for 27 M. to Point Prim. " No land can boast more rich supply, That e'er was foui '. benoatli the sky ; No purer streams have ever flowed, Since Heaven that bounteous gift bestowed. And herring, like a mighty host, And cod and mackerel, crowd the coast." " In this fine Island, long neglected, Much, it is thought, might be effected By industry and application, — Sources of wealth with every nation." ■SM" 1S2 ItoiUe 48. ST. PETER'S. II 48. Charlottetown to Soaris. By the Prince Edward loland Railway. Stations. — Charlottetown; Royalty Junction, 5 M. ; Mount Stewart, 22 ; Mor> tell, 80; St. Peter's, 38^ ; Harmony, 55 ; Souris, 60^. Charlottetown to Mount Stc-vtirt, see page 181. At Mount Stewart Junction the train diverges to the N. E., and soon reaches Morrell, a fishnig-station on the Morrell River, near St. Peter's Bay. St. Peter's {Prairie Hotel) was from the first the most important port on the N. shore of tlie island, on account of its rich salmon-fisheries. About the year 1750 the French government endeavored to restrict the fishing of the island, and to stimulate its agriculture, by closing all the ports except St. Peter's and Tracadie^ The village is now quite small, though the salmon-fisher\' is valuable. St. Peters Bay runs 7 M. into the land, but it is of little use. since there is only 5 ft. of water on its sandy bar. From this inlet to East Point the shore is unbroken, and is formed of a line of red sandstone clifis, 33 M. long. '* The sea-trout fishing, in the bays and harbors of Prince Edward Island, espe- cially in .June, when the fish first rush in from the gulf, is really magnificent. They average from 3 to 6 pounds each. I found the best fishing at St. Peter's Bay, on the N. side of the island, about 28 M. from Charlottetown. I there killed in one morning 16 trout, which weighed 80 pounds. In the bays and along the coa.sts of the island they are taken with the scarlet fly, from a boat under easy sail, with a ' mackerel breeze,' and sometimes a heavy * ground swell.' The fly skips from wave to wave at the end of 30 yards of line, and there should bo at least 70 yards more on the reel. It is splendid sport, as a strong fish will make sometimes a long run, and give a good chase down the wind " (Peuley.) Harmony station is near Rollo Hay, which was named in honor of Lord Rollo, who occupied the island with British troops in 1768. There is a small hamlet on this bay; and to the S. W. are the Gaelic settlements of Dundas, Bridgetown, and Annandale, situated on the Grand River. Souris (three inns) Is a village of Catholic Highlanders, pleasantly situated on the N. side of Colville Bay, and divided into two portions by the Souris River. The harbor is shallow, but is being improved by a break- water. The sbore-fishing is pursued in fleets of dories, and most of the produce of the adjacent country is shipped from Souris to the French Isle of St. Pierre (see page 185). There Is a long sandy beach on the W. of the village, and on the S. and E. is a bold headland. Souris was settled by the Acadians in 1748; and now contains about 500 inhabitants. The East Parish extends for several leagues E. of Souris, and includes the sca-ijhore hamlets of Red Point, Bothwell, East Point, North Lake, and Fairfield. The East and North Lakes are long and shallow lagoons on the coast. East Point is provided with a first-class fixed light, which is 180 ft. above the sea and is visible for 18 M. Steamboats ply between SourlS| (jreorgetown, and Pictou. i 1 1 / MAGDALEN ISLANDS. Rmte 49. 183 l8 more on 49. The Magdalen Islands. These remote islandn are HoinetimeH Tisited, duriDg the Hummer, by fl8hing-par- ties, who flad rare nport in catching the white Hea-trout that abound in the vicinity. The acconiniodations for T'Hitors are of the most primitive kind, but many defects art toned for by the hospitality of the peoide. The n iil-«it»':imer Heaver leaves Piofou Landinpr for Georgetown and Souri«(P. E. I.), and the Magdnlen Islinuls every Monday i»;t«T th«» arrival of the H'llifix ex- press. See S. O. \V. nenjiiiiin's di'lightful defcription of the Magdalen Islands, in Th» Century Af'i(iti:.hte. April, 1884. Fares. — Halifax to Port Hood, $ 4.60 ; to Georgetown, $ 4 10 ; to the Magdalen Islands, $ 8. Further particulars may be obtained by addressing James King, mail- contractor, Halifax. The !M agdalen Islands nre thirteen in number, and are situated at the entrancj to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, 50 M. from East Point (P. E. I.), 60 M. from Cape North (C. B.), 120 M.from Cape Ray (N. F.), and 150 M. from Gasp6. When they are first seen from the sea, they present the ap- pearance of well-detached islets, but on a nearer approach several of them are seen to be coimected with each other by double lines of sandy beache.s, forming broad and quiet salt-water lagoons. The inhabitants are mostly Acadian fishermen (speaking French only), devoted to the pursuit of the immense schools of cod and mackerel that visit the neighboring waters. At certain seasons of the year the harbors and lagoo la are filled with hundreds of sail of fishing-vessels, most of which are American and Pro- vincial. Seal-hunting is carrie I on here with much success, as extensive fields of ice drift down against the shores, bearing myriads of seals. On one occasion over 6,000 seals were killed here in less than a fortnight by parties going out over the ice from the shore. This is also said to be the best place in America for the lobster fishery, and a Portland company has recently founded a canning establishment here. On account of their abundant returns in these regards the Magdalen Islands have rec eived the fitting title of " The Kingdom of Fish." In order to protect these interests the Dominion armed cutter La Canadienne usually spends the summer in these waters, to prevent encroachments by Americans and Frenchmen. Amherst Island is the chief of the group, and is the seat of the principal village, the custom house, and the public buildings. On its S. point is a red-and-white revolving light which is visible for 20 M. ; and the hills in the interior, 550 ft. high, are seen from a great distance by day. The village has 3 churches and the court-house, and is situated on a small harbor which opens on the S. of Pleasant Bay, a broad and secure roadstead where hun- dreds of vessels sometimes weather heavy storms ni safety. 1 M. N. W. of the village is the singular conical hill called the Demoiselle (280 ft. high), whence the bay and a great part of the islands may be seen. Grindstone Island is 5-0 M. N. of Amherst, and is connected with it by a double line of sand-beaches, which enclose the wide lagoon called Basque Harbor. It is 6 M. long, and has a central hill 550 ft. high, while on tlie W. shore is the lofty conical promontory of sandstone which the w 184 Route 49. MAGDALEN ISLANDS. Acadians call Cap de Meule. On the same side is the thriving hamlet of V£ltang du Nord. On the E., and containing 7 square miles, is Alright Island, terminated by the grayish-white ciitFs of Cape Alright, over 400 ft. high. A sand-beach runs N. E. 10 M. from Grindstone to Wolf Island, a sandstone rock | M. long; and another beach runs thence 9 M. farther to the N. E. to Grosse Island, on the Grand Lagoon. This island has another line of lofty cliffs of sandstone. To the E. is CoJJin Island, and 4 M. N. is Bryon Island, beyond wliich are the Bird Isles. Entry Island lies to the E. of Amherst Island, off the entrance to Pleasant Bay, and is the most picturesque of the group Near the centre is a hill 580 ft. high, visible for 25 M., and from whose summit the whole Magdalen group can be overlooked. The wonderful cliffs of red sandstone which line the shores of this island are very picturesque in their effect, and reach a height of 400 ft. Deadman's Isle is a rugged rock 8 M. W. of Amherst, and derives its name from the fancied resemblance of its contour to that of a corpse laid out for burial. While passing this rock, in 1804, Tom Moore wrote the poem which closes : , " There lleth a wreck on the dismal shore Of cold and pitiless Labrador, 'Where, under the moon, upon mounts of frost. Full many a mariner's bones are tossed. "Yon shadowy bark hath been to that wreck. And the dim blue fire that lights her deck Doth play on as pale and livid a crew As ever yet drunk the churchyard dew. To Deadinan'3 Isle in the eye of the blast, To Dordmrn's Isle she speeds her fast ; By skeleton shapes her sails are furled, And the hand that steers is not of this world." The Bird Isles are two bare rocks of red sandstone, | M. apart, the chief of which is known as Ganiiet Rock, and is 1,300 ft. long and 100-140 ft. high, lined with vertical cliffs These isles are haunted by immense num- bers of sea-birds, gannets, guillemots, puffins, kitti wakes, and razor-billed auks. " No other breeding-place on our shore is so remarkable at once for the number and variety of the species occupying it." Immense quan- tities of eggs are carried thence by the islanders, but to a less extent than formerly. This great natural ciiriosity was visited in 1632 by the Jesuits (who called the rocks Les Colombiers), by Heriot in 1807, by Audubon, and in 1860 by Dr. Bryan. The Dominion has recently erected a lighthouse here at great expense, and to the imminent peril of those engaged in the work, since there is no landing-place, and in breezy weather the surf diishes violently against the cliffs all around. The tower bears a fixed white light of the first class, which is vi ible for 21 M. Charlevoix visited these islands in 1720, and wondered how, " in such a Multitude of Nests, every Bird immediately finds her own. U'e fired a Gun, which gave the Alarm tliro' all this flying Common wealth, and there was formed above the two Islands, a thick Cloud of these Birds, which was at least two or three Leagues around.*' The Magdalen Islands were vis-ited by Cartier in 1534, but the first permanent sta- tion was founded here in 16l3 by a company of Hontieur mariners, to whom the islands were conceded by the Company of New France In 1720 the Duchess of Orleans granted them to the Count de St. Pierre. In 1763 they were inhabited by 10 Acadian families, and in 1767 a Bostonian named Gridley founded on Amherst ST. PIERRE AND MIQUELON. Route 50, 185 Iiland an estnbli.'ihtnent for trading and for the 8eal and walrus fisheries. During the Uuvolutiun Xinerican privateurs vlMted the isiandM, and destroyed every Ihiug acccssi'.ile. tJiidley returned after tlie war, but the walrui* .>«oou became extinct, and the isiaudors turned their attention to tiie coil and lierrin^? fisheries. When Admiral (.'oifin received Ids grant tiieie were l(X) tiiniilies liere; in 1831 tiiere were 1,000 inhiiljiiants: and the present population is about 3,:'>(tO. In tlii" nienn time thrw* colonies have l»een founded and populated fr.im these islands, on Labrador and the N. shore. Tlie Lord"s-Day Uale (see page 170) wrougiit sail havoc among tuo fleets in tlie.-e .vators. Tradition tells that when Capt. Coffin was conveying Governor-General Lord Dor- chester to (Canada in his frigate, a fuiious storm arose in tiie CJu.f, a.al tiie skilful mariner saved iiis vessel by g;iiinig shiltcr under the lee of these islands. Dorche-- ter, grateful for his preserv.ition, secured for the captain tiie grant of the isl.i.ds "in free and conmion .'oceage,'" with the rights of bnildiug roads and fortifications reservid to the Cro.vn. Tlie grantee was a native of IJoston and a benefactor of Nantucket, and subsequently became Admiral Sir Isaac Coffin. The grant now belongs to his nepliew, .Admiral Coffin, of JJath, and is an entailed estate of the family. In 1873, 75 years after the grant, the legislature of Quebec (in whose juris- diction the islands lie) made extensive investigations with a view to buy out the pro- prietor's claim, since many of the islanders had emigrated to Labrador and the Mlngan Isles, dissatisfied with their uncertain tenure of the land. 50. St. Pierre and Miquelon. Time-Tahh for 1888. — Str. St. Pierre leaves Halifax every alternate Monday at 10 A. M. (providing the mail from England has then arrived), for St. Fierre, Miq., traversing the Bras d'Or Lalces, and calling at the following ports in Cape Breton. St. Peters, fare, .1?6.(Hj ; return, #9 00, ^ Baddeck, " 7.00 ; " lo 50, | Svm St. John's, N. F. (see Boute 60). There are several French cafia and pensions in the village of St. Pierre, at which the traveller can find indiflFerent accommodations. The best of these is that at which the telegraph-operators stop. On entering the harbor of St. Pierre, the steamer passes Ga'antry Hfarl, on which is a red-and-white flash-light which is visible for 20 M., and also two fog-guns. Within the harbor are two fixed lights, one w lite and one red, which are visible for 6 M. ; and the Isle aux Chiens contains a scattered fishing-village. The island of St. Pierre is about 12 M from Point May, on the New- foundland coast, and is 12 M. in circumference. It is mostly composed of rugged porphyritic ridges, utterly arid and barren, and the scenery is of a striki g and singular character. Back of the village 's the hill of CaU vairCy surmounted by a tall cross; and to the S. VV., l)eyond Ravenel Bay, is the lakelet called Z' Etnnf/ du Savoyard. The town is compactly built on the harbor at the E. of the island, and some of its houses are of .'itone. It is guarded by about 50 French soldiers, whose presence is necessary to keep the multitudes of fearless and pugnacious sailors from incessant riot- ing. There is a large force of telegraph-operators here, in charge of the two cables from America to Great Britain by way of Newfoundland, and of the Franco-American cable, which runs E. to Brest and S. W. to Dux- bury, in Massachusetts. The only good house in the town is that of the Governor; and the Cath' 186 liouteSO. ST. PIERRE AND MIQUELON. olic church and convent rise prominently over the low houses of the fisher- men. Near the sea is a battery of ancient guns, which are used only for warning in season of fogs. The buildings are nearly all of wood, and in- clude many shops, where every variety of goods may be obtained. The merchants are connected with French and American firms. There are numerous aibartts, or drinking-saloons ; and the aiiberges, or small taverns, are thoroughly French. The citizens are famed for their hospitality to properly accredited strangers; and the literary culture of the community is served by a diminutive weekly paper called La Feuille OJJicielle^ printed on a sheet of foolscap, and containing its serial Parisian ftuillttun. The street of St. Pierre presents a very interesting sight during the spring and fall It is crowded with many thousands of hardy fishermen, arrayed in the quaint costumes of their native shores, — Normans, Bretons, Basques, Provincials, and New-Englanders, — all active and alert; while the implements of the fisheries are seen on every side. The environs of the town are rocky and utterly unproductive, so that the provisions used here are imported from the Provinces. The resident population is 6,000 (of whom 24 are Protestant), and the government is conducted by a Commandant, a Police Magistrate, Doctor, Apostolic Prefect, and Engineer, with a few artillerists and gens-d'armes. There is usually one or more French frigates in the harbor, looking after the vast fisheries which employ 15,000 sailors of France, and return 30,000,000 francs' worth of fish. St. Pierre is the chief rendezvous of the French fishermen, and ioimense fleets are sometimes gathered here. Over 1,000 sail of t^quare-rigged vessels from France are engaged in these fisheries, and on the i9tli of June, 1874, the roadstead near tlie island contained 350 sail of pquare-rigged vessels and 300 fore-and-aft vessels. They are here furnished with supplies, which are drawn from the adjacent Provinces, and *n r-^turn leave many of the luxuries of Old France. It is claimed that the brandy <^i • t. Pierre is the best in America. The fishermen leave their fish here to be cured, and from this point they are sent S. to the United States and the West Indies. Little Miquelon IslamJ, or Langley Island, lies 3 M. N. W. of St. Pierre, and is about 24 M. around. It is joined to Great Miquelon Islancl by a long and narrow sandy isthmus. The latter island is 12 M. long, and looks out on Fortune Bay. Near its N. end are the singular hills known as Mt. Chapeau and Mt Cal- vaire. On this island, during the summer of 1874, was wrecked H B. M. frigate Niobe, the brave ship that trained her guns on Santiago de Cuba, and prevented a total massacre of the Virginivs prisoners. St. Pierre was captured by a British fleet in 1793, and all its inhabitants, 1,502 in number, were carried away to Halifax, whence they were soon afterwards sent to France. In 1796 a French Republican fleet under Admiral Richery visited the de- serted island, and completely destroyed its buildings and wharves. It was, how- ever, restoo'd to France in 1814, together with her ancient privileges in these waters. "All the island is only a great laboratory for the preparation, curing, and exportation of codfish For the rest, not a tree, not a bush, above 26 centi- metres." The Hotel Joinville and the Pension Hacala are visited by strangers. Theatricals are given at the Casino on the Cathedral Square. See a capital illustrated article on St. Pierre, by S. G. W. Benjamin, in Thi Century Afay^zine, June, 18 S4. Prl tsiai Is Stral N. tJ estiij is ini son. Travellers intending to visit Newfoundland should send to the Queen^a Printer^ at St. John's, for the Ykar-Book and Almanac, detailing the island routes, distances, etc. NEWFOUNDLAND i fleets are Is bounded on the W. by the Gulf of St. Lawrence, on the N. by the Strait of Belle Isle, and on the E. and S. by the Atlantic Ocean. From N. to S. it is 350 M. long, and the average breadth is 130 M., giving an estimated area of 40,200 square miles. The coast is steep and bold, and Is indented with numerous deep bays and fiords. Mines of lead and cop- per are being worked with much success, and there are large undeveloped deposits of coal on the W coast. " Up go the surges on the coast of Newfoundland, and down again into the sea. The huge island .... stands, with its sheer, beetling cliffs, out of the ocean, a mon- strous mass of rock and gravel, almost without soil, like a strange thing from the bottom of the great deep, lifted up suddenly into sunshine and storm, but belong- ing to the watery darkness out of which it has been reared. The eye accustomed to richer and softer scenes flnds something of a strange and almost startUng beauty in its bold, hard outlines, cut out on every side against the sky Inland, sur- rounded by a frinjjfe of small forests on the coasts, is a vast wilderness of moss, and rock, and lake, and dwarf firs about breast-high- These littlo trees are so close and stiff and flat-topped that one can alniost walk on them. Of course they are very hard things to make way through and among .... In March or April almost all the men go out in fl« ets to meet the ice that floats down from the northern regions and to kill the seals that coine down on it. In early summer a third part or a half of all the people go, by fan:ilies, in their schooners, to the coast of liabrador, and ?pend the summer fl..ihing there ; and in the winter, half of them are living in the woods, in tilts, to have their fuel near them. At home or abroad, during the sea- son, the men are on the water for seals or cod. The women s«w, and plant, and tend the little gardens, and dry the fish ; in short, they do the land-work, and are the better for it." (R. T. S. Lowell.) Two of the most remarkable features of the natural history of the island are thus quaintly set forth by Whitboume (anno 1622) : " Neither are there any Snakes, Toads, Serpents, or any other venomous Wormes that ever were knovvne to hurt any man in that country, but only a very little nim- ble fly (the least of all other flies), which is called a Miskieto; those flies seem to have a gi-eat power and authority upon all loj'tering and idle peo- ple that come to the Newfoundland." Instances have been known where the flies have attacked men with such venom and multitudes that fatal results have followed. In the interior of the island are vast unexplored regions, studded with large lakes and mountain-ranges. Through these solitudes roam countless thousands of deer, which are pursued by the Mic- mac hunters. Newfoundland was discovered by the Norsemen in the tenth century, but they merely observed the coast and made no further explorations. I 188 Route 51. NEWFOUNDLAND. I! There is gootl reason for supposing tlmt it was frequented by Breton and Norman fishermen during the fourteentli century. In 1497 the inland was formally discovered by .John Cabot, wlio was voyaging under the patron- age of Henry V^ll. of Fngland. Tlie explorations of Cortereal (1601), Ve- razzano (1524), nn i Cartier (1534), ail touched here, and great fishing- fleets began to visit tlie surrounding seas. Sir Humphrey Gilbert took possession of Newfoundland in tlio name of England, in 1583, making this the most ancient colony of tlie liritish Empire. The settlements of Guy, Whitbourne, Calvert, and others were soon established. The fishermen were terribly persecuted by pirates during the earlier part of the 17th century. I'eter Easton alone had 10 sail of corsairs on the coast, claiming that ho was '* master of the seas," and levying heavy taxes on all the vessels in these waters. Between 1612 and 1660 alone, the pirates captured 180 pieces of ordnance, 1,080 fishermen, and large fleets of vessels. Between 1692 and 1713 the French made vigorous attempts to conquer the island, and the struggle raged with varying fortunes on the E. and S. shores. By the Treaty of Utrecht the French received permission to catch and cure fish along the W. coast (see Route 61) In 1728 Newfoundland was formed into a Province, and courts were established. The French made determined attacks in 1761 and 1796, and the people were reduced to great extremity by the Non-Intercourse Act passed by the American Con- gress in 1776 and again in 1812-14. In 1817 there were 80,000 inhab- itants, and 800 vessels were engaged in the fisheries, whose product was valued at $10,000,000 a year. In 1832 the first Legislative Assembly was convened; in 1838 a geological survey was made; and in 1858 the Atlan- tic telegraph-cable was landed on these shores. Newfoundland has re- fused to enter the Dominion of Canada, and is still governed diiettly by tlitj biitish Crown. It had 197,589 inhabitants in 1884, uiid 2u2,.,uu ii. Jo./-. 51. Halifax to Si;. John's, NewfouLdland. The ocean steamships betW(H>n Halifax and Liverpool call at St. .Tohn's frequfiltl.v. Tlie new steamers of the Red Cross Line run from New York (office, 18 Broadway), to Ilalifax and St. Jolin's. New York to Hiiiifax, 60 hrs. ; stay at Halifax, 20 lirs. ; Halifax to St. John's 50 hrs ; stay at St. John's, 60 hrs ; St. John's to Halifax, 50 hrs.: stay at Halifax. !)') hrs ; Halifax to New York, 60 hrs. Average time of the entire round trip, 12 days. Fares : N. Y. to Halifax, first cabin, .1516 second cabin, SO ; to Halifax and return, $28, or .f 16 : N. Y. to St. .John's, 3634, or !»18 ; to St. J ohn's and return , SfeO, or .f 32 ; Halifax to St. John's, ."#18, or #9 ; to St. John's and return, $34, or *16. Sailings every 15 days in summer ; every 10 days in spring and autumn. Halifax to Sydney, see page 148. After leaving the harbor of Sydney, Flint Island is seen on the r., and the blue ranges of the St. Anne Mts. on the 1. The course is but little N. of £., and the horizon soon becomes level and landless. Sometimes the dim blue hills of St. Pierre are the first land seen after the Cape-Breton coast ST. JOHN'S. R(mte52. 189 Breton and ii^lnnd was the patron- (1601), Ve- ent fishin^- iilbert took .83, tnnking settlements shed. the earlier rsairs on the /ying heavy I 1660 alone, n, and large ts to conquer the K. and S. sion to catch ewfoundland French made e reduced to tnerican Con- 50,000 inhab- product was ssembly was 58 the Atlan- land has re- directly by |2,. uUiii J:>.>-. r Ill's frequflitly. 1 run from New to Halifax, 50 , St. John's, 60 to New York, Ifax and return, i,8F60,or*82; iltie. Sailings Ihe r., and the It little N. of fcmes the dim LBreton coast sinks below the horizon; but generally the bold mountain-promontory of Cape Ghapeau Itouge is the first recognisable shore. Then the deep bight of Placentia Bay opens away on the N. After roimding Cape Race (see page 199), the steamship stretches away up the Strait Shore past a line of fishing hamlets, deep fiords, and rocky cnpos. •• When the mists dispersed, the rocky shoreg of Newfoundland were close upon our left, — lofty olilTs, red and gray , terribly beaten by the wave* of the broad ooean. We aniUHed ourselves, as we passed abreast the bays and hcatliands and rugged islands, with gazing at the wild scene, and setirvhing out the Iwauty timidly reposing among the bleak and desolate. On the whole, Newfoundland, to the voyager from the Stiites, is a lean and bony land, in thin, ragged clothes, with the smallest amount of adornment. Along the sides of the dull, brown mountains there is a suspicion of verdure, spotted and strij^d here and there with meagre woods of birch and flr. The glory of this hard region is its coast; a wonderful perplexity of fiords, bays and creeks, islands, peninsulas and ca|>es, endlessly picture.<«(iue and very often magnify cently grand. Nothing can well exceed the headlands and precipices, honeycombed, shattered, and hollowed out into vast caverns, and given up to the thunders and the fury of the deep-sea billows. . . The brooks that How from the highland-), and fall over cliRs of great elevation into the very surf, and that would ins counted features of grandeur in some countries, are here the merest trifles, a kind of jew Iry on the hem of the landscape." (Noble.) " I'iie first view of the harbor of iSt ,Ti>hn*s is very striking Lofty precipitous cliffs, of hard dark-red sandstone and conglomenite, range along the coast, with deep water close at their feet Their beds plunge from a height of 4()O-70O ft., at an angle of 70°, right into the sea, where they are ceiiselessly dashed against by the unbroken swell of the Atlantic waves '^ (Jukes ) 52. St John's, Newfonndland. Arrival from the Sea. — '* The harbor of St John's Is certainly one of the most remarkable for bold and effective scenery on the Atlantic shore. ... We were moving spiritedly forward over a bright and lively sea, watching the stern headlands re<'eding in the south, and starting out to view in the north, when we pa.ssed Cape S{»ear, a lofty promontory, crowned with a lighthou.se and a sigiial-st)iff, upon which W!u« tioating the meteor flag of England, and at once found ourselves abreast the bay in front of St. John's. Not a vestige, though, of anything like a city was iu siglit, except another Hag Hitting on a distjint pinnacle of rock. Like a mighty Coliseum, the sea-wall half encircled the deep water of this outer bay, into which the full power of the ocean let itself under every wind except the westerly. Right towards the coast where it gathered it.self up into the greatest maj^siveness, and tii-d Itself into a very Gordian knot, we cut across, curious to behold when and where the rugged adamant was going to split and let us through At length it opened, and we looked through, and presently glided through a kind of mountain-pa.s8, with all the lonely grandeur of the Franconia Notch. Above us, and close above, the rugged, brown cliffs i-ose to a fine height, armed at certain points with cannon, and before us, to all appearance, opened out a most beautiful mountain lake, with a little city looking down from the mountain-side, and a swamp of shipping along its shores. Wo were in the harbor, and before St John's." (Noble.) Hotels. New Atlantic Hotel, 60 rooms, parlors, billiard rooms, etc., elevator, electric bells, view of harbor; Union Uou^e, 3(9 »Vuter bt. There are a so two or three boarding-houses. Mrs. Muinis's, 353 Water ISt., is one of the best of the^«; and Kuight's Home, 173 Water iSt., is tolerable. Carriages may be engaged at the stands on Water St. (near the Post-ORlce). The rate per hour is 80c Amusements, generally of merely local interest, are prepared in the City Hall There is a Masonic Temple. Boat-racing is frequently carried on at Quiddy-Viddj Pond Cricket-matches are also played on the outskirts of the city. Post-OAIce, at the Market House, on Water St. Telegraph, New York, New foundland, and Loudon Co., at the Market House. — rrc: I I t I 190 Route 52. ST. JOHN'S. Mall-waRons leave St. John's for Portugal CoVe, dally ; to Bay Bulls and Porryland, weekly ; to Salmonier and iMurentla. on the day of arrival of the Hali- fax niiiil. Railroad tn points on (Conception U.-iy. Stt^ainshipH. — For llay-dc Verds, Trinity, Catalina, Bonavistji, King's Cove, (lii'cnspond, Fogo, Twilllngate, Exploits Island, Little Hay Island, Tilt Cove, Belt's ('ove, Nipper's Harbor, arid the Labrador eoa«t ; to Ferryland. Wenewpo, Trepassey, Burin, 8t. Lawrence, Grand Bank, St. Pierre. Harbor Briton. (i;mltoiM,On>at Jervols, Bnrgeo, Little Bay (La Poilo), Uooe Blanche Channel, and Sydnev. Pares (meals inclufh'd') to Bay-de-Verd^^ or Ferrvlanil, 1) s ; Trinltv or Placentia, 20 8.; C.atalina or Burin, 20s, : Fogo or St. Pierre, 32s. fid.; Tilt Cove, 40».; Rose Blanche, 50 s. ; Sydney, 70s. These steamships to the Northern and West^'rn nut- ports leave about every ten days, and connect with the /fcrculen for liabmdor. The no7tnvisfa runs from St. John's to Pietou and Montreal every fortnitrlit, in summer The Red-Cross |j|nc runs the Miranda, and Partia sf*>ntiishi|iN from St. John's to Halifax and New York every ten days. (St-e pajre 188) The Allan- Line steamships from Halifax to Liverpool reach St. Johu'8 in 48 hrs. St. John's, the capital of the Province of Newfoundland, is situated in latitude 47° 33' 3.1" N , and longitude 52^ 45' 10" W., and is built en the slope of a long hill which risos from tho shore of a deep and secun^ har- bor. At the time of the census of 1869 there were 22,555 inhabitants in the city (there are now about 27,000); but the population, owing to the peculiar character of its chief industr}-, is liable at any time to be in- creased or diminished by several thousand men. The greater part of the citizens are connected with tho fisheries, directly or indirectly, and large fleets are despatched from the port throughout the season. Their return, or tho airival of the soaling-stcamers, with their great crows, brings new life to the streets, and oftentimes results in such general "rows*' us re- quire tkie attendance of a large police-force. The interests of the city are all with the sea, from which arc drawn its revenues, and over which pass the fleets which bring in provisions from the Provinces and States to the S. W. The manufactures of St. John's are insignificant, and consist, for the most part, of biscuit-bakeries and oil-refineries (on the opposite side of the harbor). An immense bu-iness is done by the mercantile houses on Water St. in furnishing supplies to the outports (a term applied to all the other ports of Newfoundland except St. John's); and one firm alone has a trade amounting to S 12,000,000 a year. For about one month, during the busy setison, tlie streets are absolutely crowded with the people from the N. and W. coast- selling their fish and oil, and laying in pro- visions and other supplies .r the ensuing year. The commercial interests are served by three banks and a chamber of C(mimerce; and the literary standard of society is maintained by tho St. John's Athenojum and the (^atholic Institute. The city is supplied with gas, and water is brought in from a lake 4^ M. distant, by works wiiich cost $300,000. " In trying to describe St John's, there is some difficulty in applying an adjec- tive to it sufficiejitly distinctive and appropriate. We find other cities coupled with words which at oiice give tlioir predominant characteristic . London tlie richest, Paris the gayest, St. Petersburg the coldest. In one respect tlie chief town of New- foundland lias, 1 believe, no rival ; we may, therefore, call it the fishiest of modern capitals. Round a great fwirt of the harbor are sheds, acres in extent, roofed with cod split in half, laid on like slates, drying in the sun, or rather the air, for there U ST. JOHN'S. noutens. 191 Bay Bull« and il of the Ilall- , King's Cove, It Covo, Bctt'8 irpc, Tfcpa«Bey, ,Ons (mpals arortf iii, 20 8. *, ,^, 40s. ; Rose (I'WoSt^TTl out- : for liabtiidor. •y fortnight, in nships from i^t. Tht> Allan- Lino is situat<'d in is built on {lie 1(1 siTuro har- inhabitnnts in owing to the time to be in- ter piirt of the ftly, and large Their return, vs, brings new ' rows*' us re- of the city are •er which pass States to the nd consist, lor opposite side vnntile houses jipplied to all Mie firm alone it one month, A'ith the people laying in pro- orcial interests |id the liteniry ia?um and the tcr is brought Jiplvinn an adjcc- [ies coiiploJ \i\i\\ lion the riohcpt, Bef town of Now- ljhl«'st of modern But, roofed with , ttir, for there U not much of the former to depend upon The town U Irreffulnr and dirty, huilt chleHy of wood, the dauipnesB of the climate rendering ntone un.Huitiihie." (Eliot Wardurtox.) The harbor is small, but deep, and is so thoroughly landlocked that the water is always smooth. Hero may g«merally be seen two or three liritish and French frigates, and at the close of the season these narrow waters are well filled with the vessels of the fishiiig-flccts and the powerlul sealing- steamers. Along the shores are the fish-stages, where innnense (|uantitieH of cod, herring, and salmon are cured and made ready for exportation. On the S. shore are bcveral wharves right under the clifi's, and also a float- ing dock which takes up vessels of 800 tons' burden. The (UJtrance to the harbor is called the ''^ Narrows, and is a stu[)endous cleft in the massive ridge which lines the coast. It is about 1,800 ft. long, aij^e upon it, and steer for the lofty block-house on vSignal Ilili. TIk! [xjints nt the entrance were formerly well fortilicid, and during war-time the harbor was closed by a chain ital. Water Street is the main i)usiiiess thoroughfare, and follows the curves of the harbor shore for about li M. Its lower side is occupied by the great mcn'can! He houses which supply " fish-and-fog-land " with provisions, clothing, and household re- (mirementa; and the u|)per side is lined with an alternation (»f cheap shop.s and liipior-saloons. In the N. part is the Cuatuiu /louse, and near the cen- tre is the spacious building of the Market-Hall an I the l*ost-()fiice. To the S , Water Street connects with the causeway and hridge of boats which crosses the head of the harbor. Admonished by several disastrous fires, the city has caused Water St. to be built upon in a substantial manner, anil the st(jres, though very plain, are solidly and massively constructed. The Anglican Cathedral stands about midway up the hill, over the old burying-ground. It was |)lanned by Sir Gilljcrt Scott, the most emi- nent British architect of the present era, and is in the early English Gothic 192 Route 52. ST. JOHN'S. architecture. Owing to the inability of the Church to raise sufficient funds (for the missions at the outports demand all her revenues), the cathedral IS but partly linished, but since 1880 much work has bc.'cn done upon it, largely by li^hermen volunteers. The lofty propeatre, and seemed to eiyoy the spectacle of sails a d colors in the harbor We struck into a fine military road, and passed spacious stone barracks, soldiers and soldiers" f imilies, goats and little gardens. From the observatory, situated on the craggy |)eninHulu. both the rugged interior and the expanse of ocean were before us."' (Noble.) •• Britoner. et Nonnani anno a Oiiisto nato MCCCCCIIII. has terras invfnere^^ ; and In August, 1527, 14 sail of Norman, Breton, and l*ortugue>e vessels were shel- tered in the harbor of St. .John's. In 1542 the Sieur de Roberval, Viceroy of New France, entered here with 3 ships and 200 colonists bound for Quetier. He found 17 vessels at anchor in the harbor, and soon afterward there arrived . I acijnes Cartier and the Quebec colonists, discouraged, and returning to France Kolterval ordered him back, but he stole out of the harbor during the darkness of night and returned to France A few years later the harbor was visited by the exploring ship Mary of Guil/orrl, and the reverend Canon of St Paul, who had undertaken the unpriestly function of a diseoverer, sent hence a chronicle of the voyage to Cardinal Wolsey. In August, 1583, Sir Humphrey Gilbert (see p ige 13")) entered the harbor of St. John's, with a Heet consisting of the D Uiihl, GoUhn Hi ml, Swnllow. and Squirrel. He took formal possession of the port and of the island of Newfoundland, r»;ceiving the obedience of 3(5 ship-masters then in the harbor. Hut the adventurous mari- ners were discontented with tlie rudeness of the country, antl the h'arned Parme- nius wrote back to Hakluyt ; " My good Hakluyt, of the manner of this country what shall I say, when I see nothing but a very wilderiii'sse.*" In view of the date of Gilbert's occupation, Newfoundland claims the proud distinction of b<>ing the most ancient colony of the Hritish Enijnre. In 15H4 St. .lohn's was "i«^ited by the tleet of Sir Francis Drake, which had swept the adjacent seas and left a line of burn- ing wrecks behind. In 1696 the town was so strongly guarded that it easily repulsed the Chevalier Nesmond, who attacked it with ten French men-of-war. The expedition of the daring Iberville was more successful, and occupied the place. In November, 1704, 194 Route 52. ST. JOHN'S. I, I j f I! i a fleet fW>iu Quebec landed a French and Indian force at IMaccntia, T7hence they advanced about the middle of .lanuary. They were about 4(>0 sfroiig, and cioHKed the IVninsula of Avitlon on fin»)w-Hh(H'i*. The town of Hay WwWn ^ Uthoultt) surren- dered oi their iippnuich, and a lon^ and painful niidwinter march cn.vui d, over the uiountaMi^ and tlirouKli tlic dt cp huowM. The Frcncli Uiiiifia of IMai rntia \n« re M'ut in at dawn to surprise tlie fort at St. Jolni's, but could not enter the woiks tor lack of Kcalin^-ladderH ; so they contented theniKclvrs with oc(Rl Ktldicrs were landed. This force marched on St. JohnV, which surrendered on summons, together with the English frigate (ininimont. Lord Colville's licet hastened up from Halifax and bkx-kiuUHl A(h)iiral IH' Tcrnay in the harbor of St. .John, while land forces were de- barked at Torbay and Quithly Viddy. The last-named deUichnient (Hoyal An eri- oans an«l Highlanders) proceeded to storm the works on Signal Hill, but tlie French fought desperately, and held tlum at bay until the EngMsh forces from Torbaj» came in and succieded in carrying the entile line of heights. Jn the nean time, a dense fog Inul settled over the coast, ujider who.»^e |»rotwtion De Ternay led his s(|uadron through the Hritisli line of blockade, and gained the open sea. In ITiHi a formidable French tltn't, under Admiral Uichery (consisting of 7 lin< -of-buttie ships and several frigatt's), menaced St. .lohn's, then commanded by Admiral Sir James Wallace. Strong l)atteries were erected along the Narrows; fire-t. hips were drawn up in the harbor; a chain was stretched across the entrance; and the entire body of the people wa.s «alled under arms. The hostile fleet blockaded the port for many days, but was kept at bay by the batteries on Signal Hill ; and after an inetlectual attempt at attiick, sai!«'d away to the S. Feb. 12, ISlti, a disastrous fire occurred at St. John's, by which 1,5(50 persons were left honseless ; and great suffering would have ensued had it not b(H>n for the citizens of lioston, who despatched a ship loaded with provisions and clothing for gratuitous distribution among the inipoverislied people. Nov 7, 1817, another terrible fire occurred here, by whi( h ;§! 2,000,000 worth of property was destroyed; and tliis was fctllowed, within 2 wtcks, by a third dis- astrous confiagratioii. This succession of calamities came near resulting in tlie abandonment of the colony, and the jM'ople wer»' goaded by hunger to a succes.>-'oa of .leeds of crin.e and to organized violations of the laws. In 1S26 the fir."t highway was built (from St. .John's t(» Portugal Oovei ; in 1F33 the first hcs.^-ion of the t olonial Parliament wius held ; and the first steamship in the Newfoundland waters arrived here in 1S40. In 1800 the city was convulsed by a terrible riot, arising from politico-religious causes, and thre:itening wide ruin. An inunense mob of armed Irishmen attacked and pillaged the stores on Water St., and filled the lower town with rapine and rob- bery. The ancient organization called the Koyal Newfoundland Con panics was ordereti out and posted near the Market House, where the troops suffered for liours the gibes of the phmderers, until they were fired upon In the twilight, when they returned a point-blank volley, which caused a sad carnage in the insurgent crowd. Then the great Cathedral bells rang out wildly, and summoned all the 110101*8 to that building, where the Bishop exhorted them to peace and forbearame, under pain of excommunication. After a reunirkable interview, the next day, be- tween the Bishop and Gov. Sir Alexander Bannerman, this tragical revolt was ended. In 1870 St. John's had 21 sailing-vessels and 6 steamers engaged in the sealing business, and their crews amounted to 1084 men. In 18(39 (the latest accessible statistics) 088 vessels, with a tonnage of lO'.>,043 tons, and employing .5,4t)G men, en- tered this port ; and in the same year there were cleared hence 677 vessels, with 4.987 men. St. John's has 4 foundries, 3 biscuit bakeries, 2 tobacco factories, a nail fiictory , a shoe factory, :i rope- walk, and one of the finest graving docks iu tue world. The new railroad, the first to he built iu Newfoundland, now runs troni St. John's to Uol^rood, 06 M., aud to Harbor Grace, 80 M., and t;arboue.ir, y3 M. It is l>eing built by a New-York company, aud will be extended as vapidl> as possible to tue copper-uiiues at Hall s hay, 310 M. distant, oMeuiiig up a vaiuaLiie nduiug aud fiU'ui- iug couutry. It will cost !i? 3,0(X),tA(M, and the contpany receives a subsidy o' % 186,000 tt year for 36 years, a-jd a hiud-graut oi 1 ,.00,0UU acres. PORTUGAL COVE. Route 63. 195 , \7hence tlify I, and no»«)d boullt) surien- iMii (I, ()V«T the utia \N» ro wnt wdiks t(ir lack {\\v. town and if intvuM- (Old, valiantly, and lodging thf cn- itli a powoiful nnuifi, 44 ; and IS wert' landt'd. , totrttluT with tni llalitax and forces were de- (Hoyal An fri- l)Ut tlif French ini Torba} cunie in tinu'.adfose d his squadron iW) a formidable liips and several James Wallace, rawn up in the in> body of the for many days, jnectual attempt occurred at St. rinj? would have ship loaded with iverished people. UO.UOO worth of by a third dis- resultinp! in the r to a sueeesj-'on le tir^t highway 1 of the Colonial j waters arrived politico-religious shmen attacked rapine and rob- Con panies wiis ilTercd for hours twilight, when n the insurgent mmoned all the md forbearanie, u> next day, be- gical revolt waH I in the sealing latest accessible g 5,460 men. en- 77 vespelp, with a nail factory , a world. troni St. John's i .M. It is being s possible to tiie lining and litrui- es u subisidy oi 53. The Environs of St John's. " On either sidR of the city of St. John's, stretrhlng hi a snmirirrla alnnfi; the rug- ged coast, at an average radjus from the centre f)f 7 or K M., u inunt)pr »f IJttlo flsh- ing-coves or bays attriu-t, during thn sweet and cnjoyabU? summer, all {Mirsons who can command tlie ui*v of a horse to revel in their beauties. l-^Mh llttlu bay is but a slice of the high cliffy scooped out by the friction of the mighty pressure of tl|e At- lantic waves ; and loading down to its shingled beiurh, each bo.ists of a lovely gnn^n valley through which iiif illib)y a tumbling noisy trout-burn pours back the Wfttvra evaponited from tho parent surfac**." (i/r -<'oi,. M(;(!iika ) The country about the capital is not naturally productive, but has l>een made to bring forth fruit and vegetables by careful lalior, and iiow supiwrts a considerable farming population. The roa«lM are fln(>, being for the most part ni)ic>ulamiz(Hi and free from mud 3 M. beyond the city is the Lunatic Asylum, pleasantly situated in a small forest. Quiddy- Viddy Lake is frc(|ncntlv' vi.site*! by the people of St. John's. The favorite drive is to Portugal Cove, over u road that ha.s been do*- scribed us possessing o, "sad and desolate l)eauty." This road passes the Windaor Lake, or Tweiity-.Milo Fotjd, "a large picturesque bheet of water, with some pretty, lonely-looking Islands." Tho inn at Portugal Cove looks out on a handsome cascade, and is a favoritt; goal for wedding-tours from St. John's. Hargcs run from St. John's to Topsail. •* The scenery about Portiigal ('ovo well repays the ride of nearly JO M. on a good road from St. John's, It is wildly romantic, and just befon; entering tho village Ik very beautiful. A succession of lofty hills on eich side tower over tin; road, and shut out everything but their conical or ni)>nunillated peaks, covered with wild stunted forest and bold miisses of rock, bre.iking througli with a tiny waterfill from the highest, which in winter hangs down in periKJUdicular ridges of yellow ice. Turning sudilenly out of one of the wildest scenes, you cross a little bridge, and the romantic .scattereil village is hanging over the abrupt rocky shorn, with its flsh'tlakes and busy little anchorage open to the f-ight, clo.sed in the distance by tho shores of Conception Hay, lofty and blue, part of which arc concealed by the picturesque Belle Isle.'' (Sir 11. IJonnycastl ;.) *' On approaching Portugal Cove, the oy« U .".truck by the .serrateij and picturesque outline of the hills which run along the coast from it to.vards Cape St. Francis, anil presently delighted with the wil(l Iwauty of thtf little v.illey or glen at the mouth of rt lich the cove is situated. The road winds with several turns down the side of the valley, Into which some small brooks hurry their waters, tl;ishing in the sun- shine as they leap over the rocks and down the ledges, through the dark green of the wood'^. On turning the shoulder of one of the hill-slopes, the view opens upoa Conception Bay, with tUu rocky points of the cove immudiately below." (Paor. Juk;s.) Another favorite excursion is to Viryinia Water, the fornjer summer residence of the governors of Nev^oundlund. It is reached bv wav of the King's Bridge and the pretty little Quiddy-Viddy Lake, beyond which the liallyhaly Bog is crossed, and the carriage reaches the secluded d(jmaiii of Virginia Water. It is situated oij a l)Gaut:l'ul hiko of deep water, 3 M. in circumference, " indented with little grass-edged bays, fringcil and feathered to the limj)id edge with dark dense woods." Beyond this point the drive nniy be protra(;ted to Loyie IJay, a small cove between projecting clilTs, with bold iind striking shore scenery. Logic Bay i.s 4 M., and Tor- bay is 8-9 M. from St. John's, by a fine road which crosses tho high and mossy barrens, and affords broad sea-views from the cliffs. Thq country is thinly settled, and is crossed by severa) trout'brooks. •V.' I! 1 96 Route 54. TORBAY Lofi^e Bay \» remarkable for the wildness of its rock and cliff 8renery. " Nothing like a beach is to be found anywhere on this coast, the Jescent to the sea being always difficult and generally ini practicable. In Logic Hay the thick-bedded dark saudHtoneH and conglomerates stand bold and bare in round-topjH'd hilln and preci- pices 3-4'eniblame of an enormous tent with cavernous recesses and halls, in which the shades of evening were already lurking, and the surf was sounding mournfully. Occasionally it was nmsical, pealing forth like the low tones of a great organ with awful solemnity. Now and then, the gloomy silence of a min- ute was broken by the crash of a billow far within, when the reverberations were like the slamming of great doors." " After passing this grand .'^^pecimen of the architecture of the sea, there appeared long rocky reaches, like Egyptian temples, old dead cliffs of yellowish gray checked off by lines and seams into squares, and having the resemblance, where "they have fallen out into the ocean, of doors and windows opening in upon the fresher stone." (Noble.) 54. The Strait Shore ;f Avalon. — St John's to Cape Bace. That portion of the Peninsula of Avalon which fronts to the eastward on the Atlantic has betni termed the Strait Sliorp, on account of its genenUly undeviating line of direction. Its outsorts may be vi.'^^ited either by the Friday mail-con- veyance, through Petty Harbor, Bay Bulls, Ferry land, and Kenewse, or by the Western Coastal steamer (see Route fib). DistanceH by Koad. — St. John's to Blackhead, 4 M. ; Petty Haibor, 10; Bay Bulls, 19; Witless Bav, 22; Mobile, 24; Toad Cove, 26; La Manche, 32; Brigus, 34; Cape Broyle, 38; Caplin Cove, 42; Ferry land, 44 ; Aquafort, 48; Fer- meuse, 51 ; Renewse, C4 ; Cape Race, 64. "The road, one of the finest I ever saw, — an old-fashioned English pravel-road, smooth and hard almost as iron, a very luxury for the wheels of a springlcss wagon, — keeps up the bed of a small river, a good-sized trout-stream, Howing from the in- land valley into the harbor of St John's. Contrasted with the bold retiions that Ihjnt the ocean, these valleys are soft and fertile. We passed sn 00th meadows, and sloping plough-lands, and green pastures, and houses peeping out of pretty groves. One might have called it a Caitadian or New-Hampshire vale." The road pas.'^es feveral lakelets and trout-streams, and gives fine views of the ocean on the 1. , being also one of the most smooth and firmly built of highways. " No nation makes such roads as these, in a land bristling with rugged difficulties, that has not wound its way up to the sunmiit of power and cultivation." The hills along the coast closely resemble the Cordillera^ i>eaks ; and from the bald sunmiits on the \Y., Trinity Bay may be seen. The mtiil-road nuining S. from St. John's passes Wuterford Bridge and soon approaches Blackhead, a Catholic village near an iron-bound shore whose great clifTs have been worn into fantastic shapes by the crash and attrition of the Atlantic surge?. Near this place is Cape Spear, the most easterlj' point of North America, 1,656 M. from Valentia Bav, in Ireland. On the summit of the cape, 264 ft. above the sea, is a red-and-vvhite striped tower sustaining a revolving light which is visible for 22 M. BAY BULLS. JfovteSl 197 «• Nothing he pea being bedded dark » and prccl- Hggcd cliffs, lite eddies or F. JUKKS.) d and finger, i of u prettv nd the dwell- s, and tialies. Hiiore of the c. and finely At one point, id, the strata, undred yards ve liaf« partly nous recesfos the surf was tlie low tones ?nce of a niin- jerations vrere here appeared gray checlted lere they have fcsher stone." lape Bace. atward on the ly undfviating iday mail-con- se, or by the llaibor, 10; Manohe, 32 ; liifoit,48; Fer- sh pravel-rond, linglesH wagon, hg from the in- |d rejiions that niondowa, and pretty groves, 'he road passes ^n the 1 , being on makes such not wound its le coast closely b., Trinity Bay 1:1 Bridge and Ibound shore (he crash and ^ar, the most in Ireland. Iwhite striped The road now passes between " woody banks running through an un- dulating country but lialf reclaimed on the r., wliilo on the 1. the slopes ftretch up to the l)rcczy lieadlands, beyond whicli tlicro i?< notliing but sea and cloud from this to Europe." Pefty Ilnrhor is 4 M. S. W. of Cape Spear and 10 M. from St. John's, and is a village of 900 inhabitants, with a refinery of cod-liver oil and long lines of evergreen fish-flakes. Off this point II. B. M. frigate Tweed was wrecked in 1814, and 60 men were drowned. The hou.'^cs of Petty Harbor are situated in a narrow glen at the foot of frowning and barren ridges. The harbor at tho foot of tliia ravine is small and insecure. The dark hills to the W. attain a height of 700 ft. along the unbroken shore which leads S. to Bay Bulls; and at about 4 M. from Pe'ty Harbor is the * Spout, a deep cavern in tho sea- ward cliffs, in whose top is a hole, through which, at high tide and in a heavy sea, the water shoots up every half-minute in a roaring fountain vhich is seen 3 M. off* at .sea. The road now approaches lonclay Hill (810 ft. high), the chief elevation on this coast, and reaches Bay BnUs, a village of' 30 inhabitants. This is one of the most important of tho outports, and affords a refuge to vessels that are unable, on account of storms cr ice, to make the harbor of St. John's. There are several farms near tho bay, but most of the inhabitants are engaged m the cod-fishery, which is carried on from large open boats. This ancient settlement was exposed to great vicissitudes during the conflicts between tho French and the English for the possession of Newfoundland, and was totally destroyed by Admiral Richery (French) in 1796. Fine sporting is found in this vicinity, all along shore, and shooting-parties leave St. John's during tho season for several days' adventure hereabouts. In 1696 the French flrigates Pelican, Diamant, Count de Toulouse, Vendang^, Philippe, and Harcourt met the British man-of-war Sapphire off Cape Spear, and chased it into Bay Bulls. A naval battle of several hours' duration was closeid by the complete discomfiture of the Briti.sh, wlio set fire to the shattered Sapphire and abandoned her. The French sailors boarded lier immediately, but were destroyed by the explosion of the magazine. Witless Bay is the next village, and has nearly 1,000 inhabitants, with a large and prominent Cathol'c church. Cod-fishing is carried on to a great extent off this shore, also ofT Mobile, the next settlement to the S. Beyond the rock-bound hamlets of Toad Cove, La Manche, and Brigus, the road reaches Cape Broyle. In 1628 Capv Broyle was captured by Admiral de la Rade, with three French war- vessels, who also took the fishlnji-Heet then in the harbor. But Sir George Calvert sent from the capital of Avalon two frigates (one of which carried 24 guns) and sev- ral hundred men, on whose approach '' the French let slip their cables, and made o sea as fast as they could." Calvert's men retaliated by harrying the French stations at Trcpaasey, where they captured six ships of Bayonne and St. Jean de Luz. Cnpe Broyle is a prosperous fishing-settlement on Broyle Harbor, near the mountainous headland of Cape Broyle (652 ft high). There is good salmon-fishing on the river which runs S. E. to the harbor from the foot of Hell Hill. •M- ■n;' t''.i' I 08 noHle 51 FEUUYLANP ! Ferryland Ic 2 M. boyond tlio Caplln-O^v Rottloinont, imd In tlio cupl- tal of tlio (listrU't of Korn IiiikI. It liasiibuiit. l,()(M)iiihal)itMiitH, and in wnli liH'utod on l(iliatn vifinily aro scvi-ral |>n)sjH'n)\is tarins, and piftiin'S(|ti(< scrncrv sinr<»niidH tho harbor on all nidcs. To tla^ S. 10. is I-'cnvlMnd Head, on which is u llxod whito li^ht, 200 \\. abovi< tlu' sea, and visildo tor 1«» M. OH* this point nro tho sliMuliM* spin's of ro(d\ failed tho J/iire\<< J\tir», projecting (Voni tho Roa to tho height of f)0 n. In lnh)Hulii Imtwoon Trinity niid IMariMitiii \h\\!* to Sir (Icnrne ('nlvnl, tlu>ii Scnrtiiry «i|" Sliitr. Tln' xrnnlcr iiiiiihiI ]\\n now (loMiitin A Villon, in lienor of the disd let where (Mu'lstian triKllMeii eInlniM tlutt Mio Oospel \va.M first |in>iielie(l in Itriliiin (llie preHenl ()lll^tonl)Ury). It \mih de- |ii)tnetl to t'onnd liere ii Cltristiun eolenv, uKli (he ItreiKlest prineiplcH of toleriilioii and elnu'ity, fnlvt-rt hcnt out ii eonsideriilile eenipiiny of bettlerw, under tlie novern- luent of ('apt. Wynne, and u eolonv was planted nt. Kerryland. Tlio repurtH nmt htwk to Ints iiisHtuted. Lord Italliuii re liad hut little pleanure of his .M'ttlenient in Avalen. He fountl that he luiti lie«'n t^reatly deceived about thu oliunile and the nature of tlu< M)il. The IMiritann alho he^an to harantt him ; and Krasnius Stoiu'ton, en' «if lluir ninistcrs, not only preaelied disHent under IiIh eyen at Kerryland, l>ut vtMit to Vnjjlaml and n'iM»rt«-d to the Privy t'(iunj;rant already seeured from tlie kin^ 111 tlittt nn>iv fav(»red .MUithern elinie afterwards arose the meat «'ity wliieli coiii- n eniorates and honors the i.auie of HAiniMnm;. In 1(>.'}7 Sir David Kirl\«« wasnj>poliited Count Palatine of NewlbiuidI«nd,andeHtab- Pslied himself at KerrUand. lie hoisted the royal standard on the forts, and main- taiiieil !i stroll}? (and xniu'tin es harsli) rule over the island. At the outbrea)( of tho Kiijiiish Kevolution (1('4*2'), Kirke's brothers joined Kinjj Charles's forees and fought bravely through the war, whih' Sir Pavid strengthened his Newfoiindlaiul forts and estjiblished n i>owerful and \\« Il-arncd fleet, lie otfered the Ivin^ a safe asylum in his »lomaiii ; and the fiery ]*rii t e HnjM'rt, with the royal Channel fleet, was fiailiiiK to Newfoundland to join Kirki's forees, when he was liiadeii oil by the fleet of tliu Commonwealth, und«'r Sir (5eor>re Ayseue. After the fall of the Stuarts. Sir David was earri«Ml to England in a vesstl of the Hepubli* (in lt')f)l), to Ite tried on variouH cbarjres; but be briW'd CromwelTs son in-law, and was released, returning to Kerry- land, wlieiv be di»'d in h'M, after having governed the Island for over 20 }ears. At a later day this town lH«eaiiie a port of some iirpiHMied a furious oannonade on" the town. Hut the H''i/linvi and Mary, 16, was lying in the liarbor, with l> merchant-ships, and their crews built batteries at the harbor-mouth, whence, with the guns of the privateer, tliey inflicted such dam- age on the enemy that they withdivw, after a f) hours' cannonad*', having lost aUuit 90 men. In 17 ni^^^od limriinockH ciillcfl ilm I{«.(| llilh, wlioiico llm otistiTM hill riiri^M nniH .'JO M. N. ihtokh Aviilon t<» llolynntd. (( R M. ri'iin K«r Aviiloii, iitnl i'rniii llav HiiIIh to flic W. Hlinrc or Tn'pasHO) Miiy. TIm' lliitrcr|iMfM nt llolvnmcl nrr uIhh m«'ii innii HiIh pfiinf , uiii| K() liik«>M III Nielli fi'oiii f.li)< iiialii |M-iik (whlrli Im Wyf, ft. IiIkIi) H. (if tills piiliit. <iii|M II t'liliil iroii-liftiiiiil I'DHMt, oil wliii'li M(on-< of v*>hhi-Im, vcllfd ill llii|M«iiff.nil>lc ro;< or Hwi'|it inwiinl by icHl-MrHs MtoriiiM, linvc Imcii dii'ilifil in picci-H, A vt'ry Hll)i('tt <>n'or In ifiUoiiliiif will Mirow vcmmi-Im IiimiihI M (>!' ra|i4- llai •■ 11(1011 thin plum', mill tlmii, If Mi<'('h|m< llafc ninl Kerry Idiiil lUliU an- wi.;m|'«"'I i'l Mi'' Mic-in wafers, flic rlinnrcH oT (liHasf^T arc it,ifiit . Tlic crccfloii of a r(i((wliiHtU* on the nipn liax greatly IcmhcihmI the |m iIIh i,t' navli^ation hcnv 'I'lio cMHiiiii Hlcti\nH\\\\>» Aim'o-Sijon, Ari^it, nuii (.'Uf^ a/ I'hilHi/f./pliiii wt-rw loHt on (lapo llacu. Cape Race in Mm S. 10. point of NcyvfotinllMtiil, ntut in fi ni^r^^d ImmuI* liiiiil of liliick Hluty rock tlu'ov\ii up in vorticul stnitii. It in provided with a powrrl'nl Ii^Id, IHO ft. iihovo tlio f(;ji, find visihlo ffir 15 M. 'Ilif- greiit polur ctirnMit swiu^ps in cIoho by the c.npo iiniit i-i easily avoided by the wariiiii|( of the "ice Itliiik/' Tlirouj^lionf. flio Hiiiniiier i;nd initniiiri the fo(^ brMtdn ovepthlH .-lifire iiliiioKt, ince'trcat,-<'irrle Hailing, from New Vork, 1,010 M. : fJoMton, 820; Portland, 77'.>; St. .I«»hn, N. H. 715; Halifax, 4'«; Minuiilchl, 4'J2 ; Quebec, mi; Oap« Cloar, 1,713; Ualway, 1,721 ; Liverpool, 1,970. The Grand Banks of Newfoundland aro id»oitt r>0 M. K. ofCupf! Race. Tliey ext(Mid for 4 deji^njcs N. find S. and 5 decrees E. and W. (at 45° N. latitude) runninf^ S. to a point. I'liey eon^i-^t of viist fiihrnor^ed Hand- bunks, on Nvliieli the water is from .30 to GO fathoms deej*, iind aro Ktrown with shells. Here jire found innurneralde codfish, generally m;cui»ying the shallower waters over the sandy bottoms, jind feeding on tho hIiouIh of smaller fish below. They [lass out into the dce[)er waters late in Novem- ber, but return to the Hanks in Februjiry, and fatten rapidly. Iinmenso fleets are cngfif^ed in the fisheries here, and it is estimated that over 100,000 men aro dependent on this industry. ThrouRhout a preat part of tho Hprinpf, smnmer, and fall, tho Grand Banks are covered by rarely broken foj;H, through \vhi(-h falls an ahuost incessant; plow rain. Soinctiiiiea these fogs aro so denso that objects v»lthiri W It. are totally invi.-ibjc, ut v.hich times tho lishing-vcss<>lH at anchor aro liable to bo run down by tlie great Atlantic steamers. Tho d'lngorous pro.xiniity of iccl>ergs (whicli drift across and ground on tho Hanks) is indicated hy tho sudden anrl intonso coldness wliich they pond throug'.i oven a midsummer day, by tho poculiar white glare in tho air about them, auJ by tbo roaring of tho breakers on their tides, It waa on tho Grand Banks, not far fi-om Cape Race, that the first battle of the Seven Years' War waa fouglit. June 8, 1755, the Uritish 00-gun frigates Dunkirk ■v. ,1 i 1 200 tioufr thi. TIIIO (JIIANI) HANKS. and Definnrf wrrp rnilMiiK nhont. In n iU>nnr> fog, wlicii tlipy nipt the Frrnrli tnAn>nf- mw Al'ntf Mui I.ux. For fivo ItiuirH ihv l)iiltl«> oniiiltiiu>i|, nml n nuidtiiiiil rAn< nonmlo wns ki'pt np )>i't\v«M»n the lmf i«lil|in. Tl>r liriirh wen- nvi'iifliiJclnMl, liiit fought vtilliiiillv, inllirtin^ l\i>itvv losioon tin tli«> nxNiilliintM (llio Ihntktrk tiluiir lost iM) uion). Wl)«>n tlioy Ihiiill.v riiil<>n>il, Ww l.ys nvhs IoiiikI Io rmitnin #4lN),(l(K) in djMM'lo nn*l S iM< \viit« /ir/Moia, (lie /|r/r- /iVk, iind oHuT vessels N«M»r tlH< e.lg.' «l the Onnxi I»niik (in liit, 41" 41' N , hnig nfi" 18' W ) nernrrni tho t'i«nu>n« seik-ll)i;ht lietweeii the Coii.stiliilion iinil the (iuirtn^rr, wluiHe renult llMerl the llniteil Sintes \vitl» i-ejuicliig, timi iin|>iitreil the preHtlne nf the llrlliHh niivv. , ISI'J, the t'on.\tilittioit ninhleil the (Stirrrihf, iiikI hor« down upon her with ilo\il»le-nhotteil hatlerles. Tlie Ilrltifh nliip wiim rl(tti%iic<'H. St. .Iohn'8 to O.I IVrliean, 47 M. ; Trinity. 08 : Cntnlinn, H7 ; llonii< ^l.-*t«, 107; King'8 t'ove, lit); (Jr. ensp..i.d, 148; Kogo, '214; Twlllli.giite, L'JIJ ; Kx- plot ti*, 24!); Liltle lUy IsLiiid. 284 ; l.ittl«> lta.> , '^Dli ; Nipper'n llarlior, :)(!*> ; ItettH love,yt>y; Tilt V,»\v, \\\l \ r«)aohiiiun h Cove, Ji41> ; t'onehe, ;un» ; vSt. Anthony, 43ri; Orlguet, 4^>0 : llultlo Harbor, 4114; .^^pe.ir llarhor, AOC); Kraneis It.rhor MIgl.t, 618; Dead Isliiiid. W};- ; Neiiison Island, Ml; IMineh Howl, fiHll ; liiitteanx, fHiS; Indian Tickle, fnS ; (hady ,(>(ll ; Long Island, ()()8 ; I'liek's llarhor. ()21 ; lUgo- lette,t>it>; Indian lliirhor, tvV.« ; Hrig llirhnr, (Uy) ; llolton,li7l; t'ape llnrrL-on, 7t»U; H^gg^'d Harbor, 710; Adnaviek, 72t) ; MannoekV Island, 740; Naek, 703; Turnaviek, 7(>8 ; Ca^H- llariigau, 818 lAihiuior < ixist (>/ Sfniit 4 M. ; 0*pe Charles, f)()0 ; Chuiiney 'I "iekle. fi04 ; Chateau. f>lT ; Ked Hay, 044; Lance-au- Loup, 6(>4 ; Forteau, 5.i» ; iMane .^altlon, f)8(i ; Salmon Ulver, tiOll I he Xorlhern mail-steamer leaves St. .hdin's, N. F.. every alternate Monday dur- Insc Mie season of navigation, and visits the chief outportson theN. eoa»t (so-ealled). The t>»n'"» aiv as follows: St. .lohn's to Hay-de Verds, 10s., — Hte(«rage, (Is.; to Trinity. 20s,, — stwrnge. 10s. ; to lU)navlstn,27s Od , — Hteenig«>. 14s. ; to Oreenn- pond, .^y^s , — Pt«H>rago, 15s. ; to Fogo. 82 h. (id. ; to Twillingate, .%«. ; to Kxploitg Tshnd, 87 s. (> d ; to Tilt Cove. Lett's Cove, or Nipper's llarhor, 40 8 At Itn most northerly ]>ort the steamer meets the l/rrciilvs, the linl)rad«)r mail-Hteamer. The fiin> on the T^abrador steamer Is .*2 ft «lay. which includes both pjussago and m»»als. Tho northern bivits nxv powerful and seaworthy, hut the faro ut their tables is no<'essarily of the plainest kind. The thne which will he required for the Ijjbrador trip Is nearly four weeks (H-om St. .lohn's back to St .lohn's again). The expense Is about SiM) The journey should bo begun before the middle of July, In onler to avail of the short summer In these hlirh latitudes It would be prudent fhr gentlemen who desire to make this tour to write orly In the smson to the ag<'nt8 of the steamship lines, to jissun' t.hemselv«»s of due conniTtions and to learn other particulars Mr .1. Tavlor Wood Is the agent at Halifax for the steamer ft-om that port to St .Tohn's : and Dowrlng Brothers, St. JoUu's, N. F., are the ageuta for the Northern Coastal Line. Passiuc: out botM'eon the stem and froAvniug portals of the harbor of St. .TohiiN. tho stoanier sooti takes a northerly course, and opens the indenta- tion of Lopie Btjff on the W. (see pa^e 196). After running by the tall cliffs of J^ujrar T.oaf .^nd Red Head (700 ft. hifrh), Torbay is seen opening to the W., within which is the village of the same name. TTIINTTY. Rnuh, GG. 201 Ahoiit R M. Imynnd TorI»ny, tlio whifn Hli«»rn ii[' Cnpo fit. Franoil Ih mwu oil tim port Im»\v, iiikI, if IImi wiifj-r in rmi^li, tim jMcut l)nMik«M«« nmy ho porn \vliii»'iiin>( over llm roc|;« wliicli urn fiilliwl llm IliMtMli*";. 'I lip joijrMe I* now liii m-f-ii cxt^Miding to tlin S. VV. (or .'JO M. IH M. froni (^npn St. Kriiiicjj, ii»i(| nlnint 40 M. frnin St. .InliiiN, llin HfniMici' |ms>ilir)r("« of NowI'ouihIIiiikI tiirif in no doubt, thiit Mn-w; wat«rfl hftd lon^ IxM'ii flu; rr»ort of Mn- flMliiniJ^-llri'tx of tiin Noriiitiris, lln-toiiM, nml IV|fr«;^ffM), th it t icy HouK-tiinc-i Ktayi-il IiIh «hli>|M«." liiuM-alaos Ih tlio aMclcnt n.iM((iii« inin*' for roilflHh, ami \\a i'Xt«!n<«iv« hm»« hy tho nativcH in pla'v of Micir own wor I A/iri^^, iiD'anln^ tli»' Hani«i thlnj;, l^ h«'l»l an ron- c1ukIv<> proof that Mn'y li'nl Ix-iii miik-Ii in (■oniinniiication with IIhw|u«' fi.sh«!ruifln before tlii' arriv.il of Cahot. Ciljitt (^ ive t'lJH naiim \i> tlu! rootinfnt aw far»ui he cxplon-d it, hut ill the may of 1 >|() it In applivii only to the i«W*t which now re- tuinH it. On her }ilt(!rnatnt Intonnittont tidw. Tlio town of Cutnllua lm» 1,.')0() iiiliiil)it!mts, with 2 cliuivlics, of which that of th« Kpln- CopMhuiiH is n {\\\{\ )»it>(M> of urchitiM'tun', though biiilt of wood. Tho luiiln piirtof tho st'ttlomiMit is on tlir W. side of tiic hurhor, mid hiis ii (•()iisi(h»r- nblo iii:iritimo trade. 'I'ho iidjiKM'tit wntcrs nltoinid in Hiilinon, iind doll- cions odihlo wlK^ks nro found on thi^ roiks. Iiosi(h>s \\n\ higliwny to Trinity (20 M.), a nijrppd road hM\d» N. to Honjivistn in 10 M. Cntulina was visited in ir»;U by (/iirtiiM*, who iiiuncd it »SV. Ctttlurme. On loavinp; ("atidina llnrbor, Norfli lload is jtnsscd, nnd nftor running N. K. by N. 3 M. I'Mowcrs Iloatl is h«ft on tlio port bow. About 2 M. be- yonil,tb(' Hird Ish^ts aro scon on Mio 1., ncir which is tlio fisjiing-setticnicnt of lih'd /.tlnnil Core (070 inhabitants), with its lonfj luid handsonin beiudj. A short ilistiincc inhuid is scon the Hurnt Hidp>, a line of jlark l)U'ak hills rising to a height of 500 ft The DoIlarniMn linnk, fninous for codfish, h now crossed, and on the 1. is seen ('ape Largent and Spiller Point, off which arc the precipitous and towcr-lik«> * Sjn'llcr Rocks, surrounded by the sen. The steamer now passes Capo Bonavista, on which is a red-and-white flasliing-l ght, 150 ft. above the sea, aud visible for 15 M. The rp-(llscovcry of NowfouiKlland (iiftor the N()rthiiH'n\s voynpps 5 conturlos bo- forc) was oirwtvj In .lune, 14!»7, by ('iibot, ii Voturtian in tlio service of Henry VII. of Knglauil, .s-iilin^ in the ship Matiltfir, of Hristol Me gave the name ot Bona Visla (" Fair View "), or Prhnn Vista (" First. View "), to the first point of the coast which ho saw, and that name has since been attaeheil to this northerly cape, since it Is iHjlleved that tliis was ti»e h)catjon of tlio new-fmnul shore. (Tiie reader of Bid- die's "Memoirs of Sebastian (\abot " will, however, be much puzzled to Itnow what point, If any, Cabot actually saw on these ct>!»sts.) The rocks and shoals to the N. are prolific in fish, and are visited by great flotillas of boats. After roumling the light, the stenrner eutiM's Honavista Bay, a great bight of the sea extending between Capes lionavista and Freels, a dis- tance of 37 M. About 4 M. S. VV. of the cape, the steamer enters the har- bor of Bonavistai an ancient marine town with 3,500 inhabitants and 8 churches. It is the capital of the district of the same name, and is also a port of entry, having a large and increasing commerce. The harbor is not secure, and during long N. W. gales the sea breaks heavily across the entrance. The Episcopal church is a fine building in English Gothic architecture, but the houses of the town are generally mean and small. Considerable farm ng is done on the comparatively fertile lands in the vicinity, and it is claimed that the climate is much more genial and the air more clear than on the S. shores of the island. The town is 146 M. from St John's, and is 30 M. by road from Trinity and 10 M. from Catalina. It is one of the most ancient settlements on the coast, and signalized itself in 1696 by beating off the French fleet which had captured St. John'i and ravaged the S. coasts. BONAVIHTA BAY. lioute 55. 203 Htmnnnii. Ihty. A roml IhuIh S. U' fmiu noiiiivi«ra t«i Hirrliv ('«>v«'. 9 M. ; Ainhi-rwf. (/0»e, 12; KIiik'm ('nvr, '20; K ; I'liU.! Ct.vts, 3H ; ami Imliaii Arm, \'i. Kinii''* Coif \h a village of liahraMur (ixhiTiiHMi, wllli r»'»0 iiilialiitiintN and 2 rliiirrlH'M. It Ik vnk of Sondurn Ih-ml. A'»^/.i l» l\ M. from Kind's Covo, anti i1o4>n a ronHiilfralilc Innilx-r ImHini'HH. 'I'lH-ncf tin- road il*>Mc<>nilH MiroiiKli Tirklu Cove (2 M- from tin- |ii<' takt-n from ()\n'\t Jl<«' of fi^Mt InlciliitantH. «i M. N U ., I.ryond tin- Hay of Fair and Falw), Ih lilooilif ISiii/, a drrp and narr«iw inh-t with iiicturcHtpK^ fon-Mt mM'iicry, oxtrndinx for wvi-ral inilfs amont^ tin- hills. The nam)> wan (jivi-n on ac- cfiunti nf tho fruqucnt rontlictH which here enNn4-d lictwccn the lied IndiaiiH and the flMliorniiMi. At the lieail of the hay !■< the Terra Nova Kivcr, d<^''cendln^ from tho Tfrrn iWora Uikt', which Im If) IM. djxtant, and is \'2 .M. loni^. The N. Hhore of llonavista Hay in visit«>d moMt ea.nily from the port of (irrenn- ponti. Tliu cnininunication \h excluHively hy Ixiatn, which may he eiiKa^ed at the village. N«!arly all the islands in tho vicinity atid for lO M. to the S. U'. and S. are (M-cupied hy Hniall comninniti4>s of hanly fi-diermen, and the nlioreH of tlie main- land nni indt'nt4>d with de<-p and narrow ha\H and Kound.H. To the N. are lUnA'n iHland, li H. ; Pinchers Island,'.); Tohhler's island, lO; and Middle Kill <'ov)! (near (!ap« KrcN>ls), 15. To the S. anil NV. are the Kair Island, 7 .M. ; Heer Island, 11 ; Cottel'H Island (three settlements), I") ; the JJooscherry Isles, 12; and Hare Hay, 28. Tho last-named plac«' is at tin; entrance of t'rrsltirnifr Ii«ti/, which runs in for ahmit 16 M., with d«'ep w;it4>r and hold shores. The j^reat northern mail-road is Ixjlng built aloiif? the he I of this hay ; a short distance from which (hy the; river) an; the Gufnho himts, hmy. lakes in tin- dt'Milate interior, 23 .M. lon^;, ahoundinf^ in fish. One of tho h(>st salnion-fisherios un the island is at the hua:.)od qualities." Leif named this country Ilelluland (from Hella,a, flat stone), distinguishing Labrador as Helluland it Mikla. In 1288 King Eric sent the mariner llolf to Iceland to call out men for a voyage to the.>'e shores ; and the name iVjy'a Land, or N^'a Fundu Land, wa.s then applied to the great .land to the S., and was probably adopted by the English (in tlie Anglicized form of Newfoundland) during the commercial intercourse between England and Iceland in the 15th cen- tury. 9^ M. N. VV. by N , Cape For/o is ii])proached, and is a bold promontory 214 ft. high, terminating Fogo Island on the S. E. The course continues to the N. \V. off the rugged shores of the island, and at 6.^ M. from Cape Fogo, Round Head is passed, and tlie steamer assumes a course more to the westward. 6-8 M. from Round Head she enters the harbor of FogO, a port of entry and post-town 216 M. from St. .lohn's The population is 740, with 2 churches; and the town is of great local importance, being the depot of supplies for the fishing-stations of the N. shore. (See also Route 68 for thi.s and other ports in the Bay of Notre Dame.) **The western headlands of Fogo are exceedingly attractive, lofty, finely broken, of a red and purplish brown, tinted here and tliere with pule grten As we pass the bol 1 piomincnces and deep, narrow bays or fiords, they are continually changing and surprifiiig us with a ne.v scenery. And uow the gi eat sea-wall, on our right, opc'.'.s and « i. clo.«es the harbor and village of Fogo, the chief place of the island, gieauniig in the setting sun as if there were flames shining through the windows. Looking to the left, all the western region is one fine i-Egeau, a sea filled with u mul- titude of i^iles, of manifold forms and sizes, and of every height, from mountain pyra- mids and cre the shrouds, and be- hold fields and lanes of Wiiter, an endle.ss anil beautiful network, a little Switzerland with her vales and gorges filled with the purple sea." (Noble.) In passing out of Kogo Harbor, the bold bluff of Fogo Head (345 ft. high) i.s seen on the 1., back of which is Briujstone Head. Tlic vessel steams TWILLINGATR RouU 55. 205 tower 100 . To the d sealing- cent rocks) which had le northern • ports or a sterile Ian Js L d up ; that the top of ship Gram! 1 great coni- and craggea and allotted irtier of the he "Feather iscovered by ;if, son of the m. •' Then ashore, and ke a plain of fn» that this 1 ife«/«,aflat Eric sent the and the name nd to the S., ewfoundland) the 15th cen- promontory e continiies from Cape Irsc more to lor of Fogo, lopuliition is [•0, being the also Route anely broken, [. . As wo ptiJ^s lally changing |on our right, 3f the islund, the windows. Id with ti mul- |()untaiu p) ra- ilns split and iesque masses louds, and be- lu gwitzvrlaud |34r> ft. high) >ssel steams in to the W., up the Bay of Notre Dame, soon pass'ng Fogo Head, and opening the Change Island Tickles on the S. Change Island is then seen on the 1., and the course is laid across to the lofty and arid hills of Bacca- lieu Island. At 22 M. from Fogo the steamer enters the harbor of Twil- lingate (the Anglicized form of Toulinguet, the ancient French name of the port). The town of Twillingate is the capital of the district of Twil- lingate and has a population of 3,700, with 6 churches. It is situated on two islands, and the sections are cf»nnected by a bridge. Farming is carried on to a considerable extent in the vicinity, but with varying suc- cess, owing to the short and uncertain summers. The houses in the town are (as usually in the coast settlements) very inferior in appearance, snugness and warmth being the chief objects sought after in their archi- tecture. The finest breed of Newfoundland dogs were formerly found about the Twillingate Isles, and were generally distinguished by their deep black color, with a white crass on the breast. They were smaller than the so-called Newfoundland dogs of America and Britain ; were almost amphibious ; and lived on fish, salted, fresh, or decayed. Like the great mahogany-colored dogs of Labrador, these animals were distinguished for rare intelligence and unbounded aff'ection (especially for children) ; and were exempt from hydrophobia. A Newfoundland dog of pure blood is now worth firom S^ 75 to S 100. The steamer passes out of Twillingate Harbor and runs by Gull Island. The course is to the S. W., off the rugged shores of the Black Islets, and the N. promontory of the great New IVorUl Island. 14 M. from Twillingate she reaches the post-town of Exploits Island, a place of 530 inhabitants, with a large fleet of fishing-boats. (See also Route 58.) From Exploits Island the Bay of Notre Dame is crossed, and the harbor of Tilt Cove is entered. This village has 770 inhabitants, and is prettily situated on the border of a picturesque lake. The vicinity is famous for its copper-mines, which.were discovered in 1857 and opened in 1865. Be- tween 1865 and 1870, 45,000 tons of ore, valued at $1,180,810, were extracted and shipped away. It is found in pockets or bunches 3-4 ft. thick, scattered through the heart of the hills, and is secured by level tun- nels several thousand feet long, connected with three perpendicular main shafts, 216 ft. deep. There is also a valual)le nickol-mine here, with a lode 10 inches thick, worked by costly machinery, and |)ro(lucing ore worth $332 a ton. A superior quality of marble is found in the vcinity, but is too far from a market to make it worth while to quarry. The male inhab- itants of Tilt Cove are all miners. The next stopping-place is at Nipper's Harbor, a small fishing-village 10 M. S. W. of Tilt Cove. The harbor is the best on the N. shore of the Bi\y of Notre Dame, and los between the Nipper's Isles and the mainland. On alternate trips the mail-steamer calls also at Little Bay Jgland, 6-8 M- S. of Nipper's hari)or. 206 RouU 56. CONCEPTION BAY. The great copper-mines of this region now employ thousands of miners, and produce vast quantities of rich ore. The new railway from St. John's is heading toward the N. shore of the Bay of Notre Dame, to reach the mines. They are owned in London, and much of the ore is shipped to Wales, to be sm< Ited. Since the year 1880, these remote shores have received great accessions of population; a telegraph line has beei. built along the coast to St. John's ; and new roads begin to reach in- land, including the great highway across the island, k^ Indian Pond, Grand Lake, and the Bay of Islands, surveyed in 1878, in which year Governor Sir John Glover and the Rev. M. Harvey crossed the island on this line, in canoes, finding immense areas of arable and grazing land, deposits of coal and other minerals, etc. The Hercules connects with the Northern Coastal steamer at its last port, and goes on to Labrador (see pages 223 to 229). 56. St. John's t > Coaception Bay. Railway Stations. St. John's to Topsail, IB M. ; Manuels, 18 ; Kelllprews 22; Seal Cove. 27 ; Uolyrood. 33; Harbor Main, 36; Falnion Cov.-, 3:» ; Hrinus Junction, 47i ; Harbor Gra( e Junction, 57^ ; Broad Cove, 66^ ; New Harbor Uoiid, 74; Tilton,7U: Harbor (Inue, 84-: (:arbonear,i)2. St. John to Harbor (irace Junction, 57i M. ; lM!ic<'nti:», 84. A small steamboat plies up and dowo the bay at certain seasons. There is also a roiid extending around Conception Bay. It is 20 M. from St. John's to Topsail, by way of fortiij^al Cove, passing Ik'achy, Broad, and Horse Coves. The more direct route leads directly acros.>< tiic N. piirt of Avaion from St. John's to Topsail. The chief villages and the distances on this road are as follows : St. John's to Topsail, 12 M. ; Killigrews, 18; Holyrood, 2S ; ChajKl's Cove, 33; Harbor Main, 34J ; Salmon Cove, 37 ; Colliers, 40 ; Bri}.\us, 4«) ; I'ort de (Jrave, 51 ; Spaniard's Bay, 60; Harbor Grace, 63; Carbonear, 67^: Salmon Cove, 72 : Spout Cove, 76jt ; Western Bay, 82; Northern Bay, 87; Island Cove, 93^; Ciiplin Cove, 97 ; Bay^Verd, 106. The stage-road, after leaving St. John's, traverses a sfnguhir farming country for several miles, and then enters a rugged region of hills. Portu- gal Cove is soon reached, and is picturesquely situated on the ledges near the foot of a range of liighlands. It contains over 700 inhabitants, with 2 churches, and has a few small farms adjacent (see page 196). Caspar Cortereal explored this coast in the year 1500, and named Conception Bay. He carried home such a favonible account that a I'ortnguese colony was es- tablished at the Cove, and 60 ships were sent ou^o the fisheries. In 1578, 400 sail , of vessels were seen in the bay at one time, prosecuting the fisheries under all flags. The colony was broken up by the English Heet under Sir Francis Drake, who also drove the Frencli and Portuguese fishermen from the coast. Belle Isle lies off shore 3 M. from the Cove, whence It may be visited by ferry- boats (also from Topsail). This interesting island is 9 M. long and 3 M. wide, and 18 tniversed by a line of bold hills. It is famous for the richness of its deep black Boil, and prmiuces wheat, oats, potatoes, and hay, with the best of butter. The lower Silurian geological formation is here finely displayed in long paRillel strata, amid which iron ore is found. The cliffs which front on the shore are very bold, and sometimes overhang the water or else are cut into strange and fantastic shapes by the action of the sea. Two or thn'e brilliant little waterfalls are seen leaping fWim the upper levels. Belle Isle has <)00 inhabitants, located in two villages, Lance Cove, at the W. end, and the Beach, on the 8. HARBOR GRACE. Rmte 56. 207 { miners, St. John'8 reach the hipped to ores have has beei. reach in- ian Pond, rhich year ! island on zing land, at its last ; KeUlsrewB 3;» ; Bri«u8 larbor lload, M. from St. il, and Horse billon from St. re as follows : 's Cove, 33 ; (Jrave, 51 ; «', 72: t*pout Caplin Cove, ur farming lis. Portu- ledges near )itants, with 1 Conception olony was es- 1578, 400 sail ndor all flags, •ake, who also ;it«'tl by forry- M. wide, and its deep black butter. The anillel strata, |iin' very bold, itastie shapes seen leaping illaiseB, Lance The steamer runs out to the S. W. betwe-^n Belle Isle and the bold heights about Portugal Cove and Broad Cove, and passes up Conception Bay for 18 M., with the lofty Blue Hills on the S. It then enters the nar- row harbor of Brigus {Sullivan's Hotel), a port of entry and the capital of the district of Brigus. It has 2,500 inhabitants, with Wesleyan, Roman, and Anglican churches, and a convent of the Order of Mercy. The town is built on the shores of a small lake between two rugged hill.--, and pre- sents a picturesque appearance. It has over 800 boats engaged in the cod-fishery, and about 30 larger vessels in trading and fishing. There are a few farms in the vicinity, producing fair crops in return for great hihor. The best of these are on the bright meadows near Clark's Beach, 4 M. from the town; and several prosperous villages are found in the vicinity. Near the town is the singular double peak called the Twins, and a short distance S. W. is the sharp and conical Thumb Ptak (598 ft. high). The steamer passes out from the rock-bound harbor and runs N. by the bold hill of Brigus Lookout (400 ft. high). Beyond Burnt Head, ^a^ rfe Grave is seen opening on the 1., with several hamlets, aggregating 2,(i00 in- habitants. Cupids and Bareneed are the chief of those villages, the latter being on the narrow neck of hind between Bayde Grave and Bay Roberts, 2^ M. from Blow-me-down Head. Green Point is now rounded, and the course is laid S \V. up Bay Roberts, j -ing Coldeast Point on the port bow and stopping at the village of Bay Roberts {Moore's Hotel). This place consists of one hjng street, with 2 churches and several wharves, and has 2,800 inhabitants, most of whom spend the summer on the Lab- rador coast. Passing out from Bay Roberts, Mad Point is soon left abeam, and Span- iard's Bay is seen on the 1 , entering the land for 3^ M., and dotted with fishing-establishments. The bay is surrounded by a line of high hills, on whose promontories are two or three chapels. The hamlet and church o( Bryant's Cove are next seen, in a narrow glen at the base of the hills, and the steamer passes on nround the dangerous and surf-beaten Harbor- Grace Islands (off Feather Point), on one of which is a revolving white-- and-ied flash light, 151 ft. above the sen, and visible for 18 M. Harbor Grace (two inferior inns) is the second city of Newfoundland, and, is the capital of the district of Harbor Grace. It has 7,100 inhab- itants, with several churches, a weekly newspaper, and fire and police departments. The town is built on level land, near the shelter of the Point of Beach, with it > wharves well protected by a long sand-strip. The bay is in the form of a wedge, decreasing from li M. in width to ^ M., and is insecure except in the sheltered place before the city. Tlie trade of this port is very large, and about 200 shi|)s enter the harbor yearly. There is a stone court-house and a strong prison, anil the Con- vent of the Presentation is ou the Carbonear roud. The Roman Catholic 208 Route 57. CARBONEAR. I* i' cathedral is the finest building in the city, and its high and symmetrical dome is a landmark for vessels entering the port. The interior of the cathedral is profusely ornamented, having been recently enlarged and newly adorned. Most of the houses in the city are mean and unprepos- sessing, being rudely constructed of wood, and but little improved by painting. A rugged road runs N. W. 15 M. across the peninsula to Heart's Content (see Route 57). A road to the N. reaches (in 1^ M.) the farnung village of Mosqmlo VoKt^ snugly embosouied in a pretty glen near the cultivated meadows. About the jear 1610 a colony was planted here by the agents of that English company in which were Sir Francis Bacon, the Earl of 8outhauipton, and other knights and nobles. King Janie.s I. granted to this company all the coast between Capes Bouavista and St. Mary, but their enterprise brought no pecuniary returns. Carbonear is 1^ M. by road from Mosquito Cove (3 M. from Harbor Grace), and is reacheu by the steamer aftei oassing Old Sow Point and rounding Carbonear Island This town has 5,000 inhabitants, with 3 churches, and Wesleyan and Catholic schools. Several wharves are built out to furnish winter-quarters for the vessels and to accommodate the large fish-trade of the place. It is 21 M. by boat to Portugal Cove, across Conception Bay. This town was settled by the French early in the 17th century, under the name of Carboniere, but was soon occupied by the British. In 1696 it was one of the two Newfoundland towns that re- muinad in the hands of the English, all the rest having been captured by Iberville's French fleet. Other marauding French squadrons were beaten off by the men of Caroonear in 1705-6, though the adjacent coast was devastated; and in 1762 Carbonear Island was fortified and garrisoned by the citizens. The mail- road runs N. from Carbonear to Bay Verd, passing the villages of Cro- ker's Cove, 1 M. ; Freshwater, 2 ; Salmon Cove, 5 ; Perry's Cove, 8 ; Broad Cove, 75; Western Bay, 17; Northern Bay, 20; Job's Cove, 26; Island Cove, 27; Low Point, 33 ; Bay Verd, 33. There is no harbor along this shore, the " coves " being mere open bights, swept by pea-winds and affording insecure anchorage. The in- habitants are engaged in the flshcries, and have made some attempts at farming, in defiance of the early and biting frosts of this high latitude. Salmon Cove is near the black and frowning clilfs of Salmon Cove Head, and is famous for its great num- bers of salmon. Near Ochre Pit Cove arc beds of a reddish clay which is used for paint, and /L is claimed that the ancient Ba'othic tribes obtained their name of " Red Indians " from their custom of staining themselves with this clay. isay Verd, s<'e page 201. , 57. Trinity Bay. This district may be visited by taking the Northern Coastal steamer (Fee Route 55) to Bay Verd, Old Perlican, or Trinity ; or by passing from St John's to Harbor Grace by Route 50, and thence by the road to Heart's Content tl6 M.) The latter village is about 80 M. from St. John's by the road around Conception Bay. Heart's Content is situated on a fine harbor about half-way up Trinity Bavjundhas 1,200 inhabitants, most of whom are engaged in the Labrador fisheries or in shipbuilding. The scenery in the vicinity is very striking, partaking ff the boldness and startling contrast which seems peculiar to this sea-girt Province. Just back of the village is a small lake, over TRINITY BAY. Route 57. 209 iTinmetrical rior of the larged and 1 unprepos- nproved by >g Content • of Mosquito I. About the )any in which s and nobles. 3ouavista and "rom Harbor w Point and mts, with 3 ves are built nmodate the Cove, across V in the 17th ipied by the iwns that re- captured by i were beaten ent coast was arrisoned by villages of Cro- ; Broad Covp, Cove, 27 ; Low ' coves"' being iriipe. The in- -; at farming, in rt Cove is near ts great num- ich is used for their name of ay. (FeeRontcBB) hn"s to Harbor .) The latter Bay. ay up Trinity the Labrador very striking, 8 peculiar to ill lake, over which rises the dark mass of Mizzen Hill, 601 ft. high. Heart's Content derives its chief importance and a world-wide fame, from the fact that here is the W. terminus of the old Atlantic telegniph-cuble. The office of the company is near the Episcopal Church, and is the only good bui!ding in the town. *' O lonely Bay of Trinity. O dreary shores, give ear ! Lean down intc tlie white-lipped sea, The voice of Cod to hear f " From world to world His couriers flv, Thought-winged und shod with fire The Hngel of His stormy sky Rides down the sunken wire. •• What sairh the herald of the Lord ? ' The world s long strife is done : Close wedded l»y that mystic cord, Its continents are one. *'* And one in heart, ns one in blood. Shall all her peopk-s he : The hands of human brotherhood Are clasped beneath the sea.' " Throb on, strong pulse of thunder 1 beat From answering beach to beach ; Fuse nations in tity kindly heat. And melt the chains of each ! " Wild terror of the sky above. Glide tamed and dumb below ! Bear gently. Ocean's carrier-dove, Thy errands to and fro. " Weave on, swift shuttle of the Lord, Beneath tlie deep so far, The bridal robe of earth's accord, The funeral shroud of war ! *• For lo ' the fall of Oceon's wall Sjiace mocked and time outrun ; And round the world the thought of all Is as the thoueht of one.' John G. Wiiittier s Cnhle Humn. The road running N. from Heart's Content leads to New Perlioan, 3 M. ; Sillee Cove, 6 M. ; Hants Harbor, 12 ; Seal Cove, 19 ; Lance Cove, 24 ; Old Perlican, 28 { and Grate's Cove, 34. New Perlican is on the safe harbor of the same name, and has about 420 inhabitants, most of whom are engaged in the cod-fishery and in ship- building. A packet-boat runs from this point across the Bay to Trinity. Near the village is a large table-rock on which several score of names have been inscribed, some of them over two centuries old. Old Perlican is about the size of Heart's Content, and is scattered along the embayed shores inside of Perlican Island. It is overlooked by a crescent-shaped range of dark and barren hills. The Northern Coastal steamer calls at this port once a month during the season of navigation. The southern road from Heart's Content leads to Heart's Desire, 6 M. ; Heart's Delight, 9 ; Shoal Bay, 14 ; Witles.s Bay, 19 ; Green Harbor, 23; Ilop«^ All, 28 ; New Harbor, 32; and Dil Jo Cove, ^5. The villages on this road are all small, and are mostly inhabited by the toilers of the sea. The country about Oreeu Harbor and Hope All is milder and more piustoral than are the cliff-bound regior ;* on either side. From New Harbor a roiid runs E by Sptmiard's Bay (Conception Bay) to St. .lohn's, in 08 M. To the S. and W. lie the tishiug-hamlets on the narrow isthmus of Avalon, which separates IMacentia Bay from Trinity Bay by a strip of land 7 M. long, joining the piniiiisula of Avalon to the main island. The deep estuary called Bull Ann runs up amid the mountains to with n 2 M. of the (Jome-by-chance River of Fiacentia Bay, and here it is proposed to innke a canal joining the two bays. Heart's ICase is 1.5 M from Heart's (Content (by boat), and is at the S. entrance of llandoin Sound. It is a fi.^hinK-villajre with 20(* inhabitants and a church. To tlie S. is the grand cliff-.scenery around St. .Jones Harbor and the long and river- like Deer Harbor, filled with islands, at wliosc head is Centre Hill, an isolated cone over 1,0()0 ft. high. From the sunnnit of Centre Hill or of Crown Hill may be seen nearly the whole extent of the IMacentia and Trinity Bavs, with their capes and i.slands, villages and harbors. Just above Heart's Ease is Randoio Island, covering a large area, and separated from the u<"\n by the deep and narrow watercourses called Random Sound and Sndth's Sound. There is much fine scenery in the sounds and their deep arms, and salmon-fishing is here carried on to a considerable extent. There are immense quantities of slate on the shores, some of which has been quar* N ,• ( I Hi' \i- 210 Route r,8. UIVEU OF EXPLOITS. rled (at Wilton Orove). The two Houndn »r«» about H() M lonp:, forming three Ridei of a Hqnnrc nrniuxl Hnndoin lMltintl,Hnil havo a width of from ) M. to 2 M. "The will up Smith's Souiul wuh v»>rv Ix'tMitlful. It is n \\\w ilvrr-like arm of thcwa, 1-2 M. with', with lofty, and in ninny ]tlnc«'s |)r« rharnotor of thi> s«M>n«'ry of ItMiidom Sound is wild anti hctiutiful, and ron- Tcyinfj, ft-om Its HtillnoHH and Hilon<'<>, tin* ftn'Mn^ of utter 8oiitud«> and mmMurIou." Trinity is tho most convonioMt point fVoni which to visit the N. shore of tlio \\'.\\ is«H» |)!ig(»2()l). The southern road runs to Troiity, 7 M ; Now Bonnvoiituro, 12 M. ; niul Old Houiivcnturc, 18 AI. Hoyoiid tlicso .settlo- ments is the N. ciitmiioc tu Kaiidoui Souiul. 58. Ths Bay of Notre Dame. rns,««pnpf>rs ar<' Inndod from \\w Northern ("oastiil 8teanu>r at Kopo, Twlllhifcate, Little Hav Island, Nipper's Harbor, or Tilt Cove, — all ports on tills bay (see pagfs204; 2(>f)). Fogo is sitiintod on Fogo Island, which lies lictwoon Sir Chnrlos Hnm- iltoji's Sound and the Hay of Notre Dauif. It is 13 M. long from K. toW., nnd 8 M. wide, and its shores sire liold and niirged. There arc 10 fishing- villages on the island, with nearly 2,000 inhahitants (exclusive of FogI. by road from I'otro to Cape Kogo; 7 MTto Shoal Ray; 5 to Joe Batt'8 Arm (400 inh;ilMtaiits) ; 7 to l.itlie Seldom -eome-by ; and S) to Srhlom-come-hy, a considerable villnfje on a fhie safe liarbtu*, whieh is often filled with Hwts of sehoon- ers and briirs. If ire on the roast oreontrary winds juvvent the fishermen from rpaehiuR Labrador in the earlv summer, hundretls of sail bear away for this harbor, and wait hen» until the northern voyajre is praeticable. There is no other seeure anchorage for over HO M down the eoast 7V7/r)» Ihirlmr is on the K coast of the island, and is a Catholic villaire of about 400 inhabitants. The principal settlements reached by boat from Ko^o are Apsev Cove, 14 M.: Indian Islands, 14; Klackhead Cove, 14 ; Kocky Hay, 2o: Barrd Islands, 4 ; and Chanp' Islands, 8. 20 M S. W. Is (bnider lliv, the oiitlet of the nivat linmler-Bnii Ponds, which Imthe the slopes of tlie nine Ililis and the Ih-art Ridne,a chain of mountuins 30 M. long. Frotn h\rph!ts hlatif/ (see page 205) boats pass S. 12 M. through a great nrohipelagJt. But his guests decamiwd. and he returnetl only to find that the host-iges had be<>n cruelly murdered, and the tribe had Hed to the n^niote interior. In 1823 three squaws were captured, taken to St. John, loaded with presents, and released; since whicii time no Red Indians have been seen, and it is not known whether the tribe is extinct, or has fled to Labrador, KED-INDIAN POND. Route 68, 211 three aides M. "The li«> w>n, 1-2 with wood. il, iiiiil con- ■luHioii." I. slu)ro of M ; Now eso settlo- Twllllnpito, iU buy (see lulos Hnm- n K. to W., 10 fishiTiR- 1 of Fogo), [> Jof Batt'B >i-conif-bi/, a ,8 of Kchoon- uTiin'ii from tills Imrlior, Dtlior M'cure (■(mst of the settlciiu'iitfl ; Klackhcad 20 M S. W. :,hu slopes of gh a great e river do- s a strong gh, where rail leads of the in- The River lowlands, icrs for 12 by boats rders to find lu'urly ex- their hands ■Hiiiped. and ml the tribe aken to St. .dians have Labrador, or In iiecluded In some more remote part of the Interior. They were very numerous at the time of the luivmit of the Kuropeann, and r«'ccive(| «l(»wii for tho nnkv of the rich furn in thrir poNHttsHJoti , iiiid ^nuliiiilly riitiriMl to tlic ilihtarit inland iakuM. In 1827 Min lla!of,liic HfMJrt.v C)f St .lohn'H m-nt out ciivovn t«) find tln> lU'd Indians and op' M. S. W. are the nottlc- ments at the mouth of Flnll's Bay, of which Ward'-H Harbor is the chief, liaving 200 inhabitants and a furtory for camiing salmon. There are valu- able sHlmon-fisherieH near the head of tlu! bay. From Ilall'H Bay to the N. and VV., and towards White B-iy, are tlie favorite summer feeding-groundu of the immense herds of (hier which range, almost unmolesterl, over the In- terior of the island. The hunting-grounds are usually entered from this point, and sportsmen should secure two or throe wcll-certificd Micmao guides. A veteran British fiportaman has written of this region : " I know of no country §o near England which offers the Hanie amount of inducement to tlie explorer, natu« ralist, or sportHman." It in to be hojKid, howev«'r, that no future visitors will imi- tate the atrocious conduct of a party of London pportsmeti, who recently entered these huntinK-KroundH and nia.HHficred nearly 2,000 deer during the short sea.< M., and then making a port- age to the chain of ponds emptying into (Jrand Pond, and descending by l)eer Pond and the llumber Kiver (skirting tlie liong Rnngo) to the ll.iy of Islands. The trnnslt Ib both arduous and perilous. 20 M. inland are the mountains called the Tliret TowerSy from who'ie summit may bo seen the Grand Pond, the B.ay of lixplolts, and the Strait of Belle Isle. Tile deer migrate to the S. W. in the autumn, and pa.sstho winternear St. George's B.iy and Cape Uiy Tiie lied Indians constructed many leagues of fence, from t!ie Bay of Notre Dame to Ued-Indi m Pond, by which they int «M»p|«>rn »lioiv, iumI I« it port of <>ntvy HHil po««t-to\vii, SO M. (Voui Si. .lolm's bv toml. Il h htiiH mI«»?i^ n Iflvol !»(v«n(l, ovorshn»ly vtMiinl «lt>tmli('<| 111114, mt*) nitiiiitiiinn ii UwyrQ (loot of flnhlnn-bont"*. Tlion' mo vonuuKuMo rlilV-* on Point Voitio luid Oixojj Inl.-nul, noiu- fho town; ton) (ho viown IVotu Simml lllll iiml Cusllo Hill oxtonM fur onl ovor tho h;\\ . I'horo in ininli roinnnfio sooiiory iiloiijr nml S. I'',. AtniR, wliioh oxtomi from the littilroiiit to St. .loliii'H, it) ,S4 M. tlio nju'»>w olouo\«>!s of tho N I' hj\vl)or in «nnt(n Wny w«h ot)(i>n'tl h\ (wo I'lriM h t^(Kn(»'P, wtilrh pulh'd np Into tho ttnvt>i>r «nntr ('oii>i< o( i«ol(U«'is. with hniv) nrflllon nml n(h««r nnniidons U«'n> (hoy <>nH*toii i« Hd-ouK r wiis ili dti IkmI foitln(\ hoio) mild (hut " rIiIiih itoing \\\ nvrtro (m> (o Kisnk^npon (ho nnglo o( (ho l>n»(iiin '' Tho KiTUoh liohl (liln |Hint, until ITl.S, whon U whs Moivnih'irtl, iiooonling (n (l\o (oniiH of tho tn'H(,\ of lUrooht. Tho p<>r( hot'iowo tiu\u>\»i« «s (ho n'soi( o( (ho V'ti'm h |nlvn(oor« which ««Viiin<* n( tho i»n- tmnopund hv K«M-t St l.ouls Allor n hoavv rnnnonndo ol hIx Iiouvh' dunitlon. tli« Knith'^h ttivt wn» foivivt (o draw o{\ In liiJH* IhoivUlc ^itthotrd 14 w«r-vof«wln Rt IMnootitln, nnd hrtvlnji nnolvod 4('(' uton ot Quohoo, pidlod to tho K itnd ovornui nil tho Adnntio ••HWvt of \owtonndlio\d, rotuvning wKh 40 ftO prlno rihlpn nnd (MM) piisx>nor». In l«>;<7 (ho h;ixmU Kivnoh Hoot, whloh (nndor Ihoivillo) dowtfo\od nil tho Uritish posti* on Hudson's \\t\\ , |t;tlhoi-«>ti hon> So nuioli did tho Itritish dioHd tho l>»(tornv« of Pl)»oon(l(» nnd tho warliKo onthuslrtpui of M «lo fonlnhollo, Itn onni- nmndoT, th«t Atlnoml Wnlkor, nnohoivd nt Sxdnoy, with n r Innd-fioldioi's nnd '.^H^ tMunon. n'ftl^od to ohov his onloiN to ri'dnto thin iltfl« Kronch torti>»s», .ind s;«iiod l^nk to Hrit.-iln In tlisuj-noo >Vhon Krnnoo nun-oiidorod Nowtinindlrtud, in 171.'?, (ho M>ldlors nnd oidzons of IMnoondn ndnrntod (o t'npo llre- toii ; Mud In 1744 H Kivnoh n^vnl oxpoditlon nndor !M. do Hnttx fnlU-vm tho Hrltish. This town nl^orwju-ds hoonnio ono oi tho ohiof ports of the rri^vimH* ; hut h«.s of li»Jo >oni*s lost nuioh of its ivlntivo hnportnnoo. A rond rnni honoo to St. John's in Sl> M : niso through (ho (.ottlomonts on tho S. to DistrnM Cove in 2l) M. ; aU> S. W. ;{S M. (o Ihjoioh.on St Mnrv's liny. IMtle Phiceiitia is on si iitun>w hnrhor h M. N. of IMMOontin, lunl hnf» 3H3 inhabitunts. No:u* this point is « bohl poitk o\' tho wostorii nuijfo in Avalon, t'lvm \vl\ioh 07 ponds ntx> vivihlo. Tho islands in tho bay nro visited f\\m\ this point. Kaiu's Inlands {\i\'.\ inhabitants) nro 10 M. dis- tant; Kod Island (221 inhabitat tO is 12 M. W.; and about 18 M. distant is Morashoon Ishind, which is *21 M. long, and ln»s on its W. coast tho KaggoU Islands Ji65 in nnnibor. Tho groat load-minos at 7.(1 Manclie arc 12 M. N. of Littlo rinoontia. on tlio Isthnuis of .\valon, 7 M. from Trinity Uay. At tho head o( the bay, 33 M. tmni L ttio IMaoontia, is tho village of North Harbor, near tho groat rowdor-Honi Hills, and 7 M. beyond is Black Kiver, famous I'or its wild-lowl anil other game. Harbor Bujfrt is IG M. (Wmi Llttlo PhioontJA, on the lofty and indented lx)ng I»l«nd, and hA« SSS inh»bitAnt.<. Near the 8. W. )>art of Placentia Bay is the town and port of Burin, a station of tlie Western Coastal steamers (see page 214). 60. f i* nut i« 4R II port of I iilnti^ n IMtIo himI ml TupIIo (M V nlitii^ from lliti \\ pmIU'iI up nixl oili(>r 10 rluuiiiol )|ih>fi ([otiig i»f lUnM'ht. wUli »hn thiK litMo nni'iuU'riMi Vn\w llre- 1) r«><'ii))tura litrtH «)! the loiul runi to I)|k(i-«>mi 111 liHH 3F8 rnngo in bny nro 10 M. (Ils- idistioit iH 12 M. N. l\ay. At of North lis lUtick |ntcd liong the torrn HT. MAHY'H HAY. nniftf no 213 60. Thfi Wentern Ontportu of Ifewfonndland. St. John'i to Capo Ray. Dm nllrninin 'rhiirmlnyw nr frlilnv nf'or \\w (irrWfil nf fli»> frinll^ frfim KiirofH', Mm Wi'«f«'fii rmsltil olonfii^r li««»i>a Hf .foliM'" fur fho fMitpnrfn «»ri Mn" W nhfrr" Frtri'B. H» .lMhii'« ♦'" KorrN Iniul. I'l« , n«'»M'w«i#', I'M 'V n' }>»'")• v, I7«. '>J ; Wf. IMf«rv> or l'lni(.|iHn. yflF" : Hiirhi, '-^r. q ; Ml l,-iwr<'M'«', '/7 " ''. 'I ; '»rnn Hd ; Mfii»iMr llril»>fi. 'V/' ■ »'mI , O'liilif.t" ».r On-'it JirrfHn, n7i« Hil : IliirKJMi. 4n« ; \,n l'i.|l«», 47" <'««' lllnnrh*', r»Op ; ("hnriMfl, fifiH. ; Hydiipy, 70 n. MmhIb nr« liirltnltMl. Tli»» trip »»iit iukI \nvk inkt'H 10 U< 12 'l»ijf«. 8t. Itilin's 1o Ciipf Uiirn, pi«n UtMitn t)i. I'ii«=^ mo lofjy nn'l huro, nnd opi-n to tho nwoMp nf the MMi. H^ M. from l''n"«hwiit,or I'oint U I'owIoh llmid, on who-o W. nido the hnrlior <»f Trpp'ti^urf/ is Hhidtfrod. Tlio f»»\vii coiifnlriH r»l4 irihiihiduit • 'rio<«t of whom mo «Mij/iiji«'d in fho fhhorio'^, iin I f^»nt^ on n ««ic,uro li»irl»f»r wliirh h novcr oloii'd hy Wn. Uoinh lojid Iiimic » to Siilrnonicr(J{l M )mid Fleri'iWHO. In 10'2H liord llRlMiiHtrp'x f»lilp« of Avalon, t.hn Hfn^flirtinnnw} thf K/«7ofv,mit*Teit. Tli«> town of Tn-paMwy wim d«'Htroy«'(l by a HriM'*h luival >ir,tA/k In 1702. Tlio fttoiimor now iuih S. W. to mid nr(»iind Capo Pine. '»n which i<« a lull circnlur towor whudi nphtddn ii fixod lij/ht .'{14 ft «hovo tho «ftft. vinlble at a dlHtmico of 24 M. 1 M. VV. aN. W. Ih Ciipc Frocls, a littlo hoyond whicdi is .SV. Shorn linij. Thin narrow nlioro hotwoon Vn\>v. Phm anrl Ht,. Hhot's \n nn\i\ tf» !»*• fh** mo«f. flan(t<»r- OUH and d('»tnic(iv»? diMtrict on Mm North Anicrir-nri roa^t,, and h;i.•»,. .SIiot,> i<« m dr»^a/l»?d a naiiii> on Mm; N coa^f. hh (;a|M« lliitt«(raH h In Mm noiithitrn M'ti. In 181(5 the tran>»p'»rt Harpnon^r wan wrcck»'d on opl» w«>n! lofit. St. Mary'H l^ay i^ honndi-d t»y Tap*- Fn"*-!-* and JAnr« I'oint, and *-xt*!ndJ» for 28 M. Into tin; IN>niir tn^n and port of cnfry, Hitii»t»;d »»n a dc«'p limil-lfKkfd hartfor, and l.irfc^dy anv^K'''^ '" tisliin)^. To tin; M. Ih the inr>nntainoiiH ('jijm- Knj^li-h, nwir whi'li a narrow i»andy Im'icIi H<'parat«>.s tho l>ay from llnlyrouil I'onil , a n-markahN; ho-Oo«i»«;n l'"nd«, in the. interior of Avalon. TImro am several Hmall hamlctn in thi."* virinity ; and/'o//n>»/i.-»acf:»;rtrtit>Ie by land fVom St. .lohn'H in 66 M. The VV. ahnre of 8t. Mary's Bfty \» mouaUiiums and rugged, aud hac no settlementn of any consequence. ! I i V. 214 ItoiUeOO. FOIITUNK lUY. ■ I Boyoiid the hold Cupo St. Mary tlio Htoinnor niiis to tlio N. W. across tlio widn onCmnoo to IMiu'ontin I^ay (sro \\\\^i) 212). At iibout 20 M. from Cupo St. Mary tho slinrply (Iclinoti licatiluiid of Oiip** ('hiipciiu Kotigo Ihm-oiiioh vi.«il>lo; aiiti tlio liuihui- of Burin is cntiMod at aUout 42 M. IVom ('apo St. Mary. This harlmr is (ho IIiichI in Nrwfumidlaiid, and Is shcltorod hy Islands whoso rlill'-liouiid shores aro iioarly 2(»0 ft. high. On Dc.dding Head is a lijjhtliouso i'M) |>. above thr sea, Ix'arinfj; a nnolving light which is visihle lor 27 M. Still I'arthcr np, and almost (>iitii«'ly land-locked, is the Burin Inlet. The town ol Unrin has 2,'{()() inli:il)itants, and is an ini|)ortant trading-station, sui)plying a great part of IMaccntia Bay. The adjacent 8cenerv is ol'the lioldest and most rugged character, the lofly ishindH vying with the iidand inount.'iins. On leaving Burin the course is laid to the S. W., passing the lofty prom- ontories of t'orhin Head, Miller Head, atul Keil Head Beyond the tall .sugar-loat'on Sculpin Point the deep harhors of Little and (treat St. [iUW- reuce are seen opening to th(> r. ; and the s(»a-resistingrock of Cojh' Clinpeau RotKjv is next passed. This great laininiark reseujldcs in shape the crown of a hat, and is 74.S \\, high, with sheer precipices over 800 ft. high. From this point the course is nearly straight for .'}3 M., t(» St. IMorre, ruiuiing well cfT, hut alwavs in sight of a hold and elevated shore. St. Piorre, ."ce pagi> isr>. On leaving St. I'it>rre the cour.se is to the N., passing, in 5 M., the low .•shores of (i'/-«<;}i Islund, and then running for a long distaui-e lu^tween the Mi(pielon Islands and May and Dant/ic Points (on the nniinlaud), which are about 12 M. ajiart. When about half-way across iMirtune Bay, Brunot Island (5 M. long) is passed, and on its K. point is seen a lighthouse 408 ft. above the sea, showing a flashing light for 25 M at sea. M. beyond this point is Sagona Island, with its village of fishernuMi; and 5 M. farther N. the steamer enters Harbor Briton. Here is an Anglican village of about 800 inhabitants, with an extensive local trade along the shores of Fortune Bay. The harbor is very secure and si)acious, and runs far into the land. Tins town was settled in IGIG by VVelslnnen, and was then named Comb rial Fortune Binj Is includo*! bt^twiHMi Point Mav and Pnss Island, and is 35 M. wide and 66 M. long. Fortune is a town of over SlX) inhabit^ints, sitnafetl near the entrance of tlie bay, and on the Laniidine riiad Its energies are chiett.v devoted to the fisheries and to tridin^ witli St Piern>. 3 M. E. \. E. are tlie iiij^hlands of Tape Grand Hank, from which the shore tivnds N. E. by the hamlets of Garnish and Frenehnmn's Covo to Point Eura^^e. The E. and N shores are broken by deep estuaries, in which are pnmll tij-settlenients ; and in the N W. corner are the North and East Bays, fiinious for iierriiiir-tisheries, which attract large fleet" of American vessels. On the W. shore is tlie prosjH'rons village of Itelleoreiii) engaged in the cod and herring fisheries, and distant 15 M. from Harbor liriton Hoads lead {w\\\ this point to the villages of Barrow, Blue Pinion, Corbin, English Harbor WvM. Coombs' Cove, and St. Jaques. The other settlements on the VV, shore are mere fishing-stations, closely hemmed iu between the mountains and the sea, and are visited by boats from Harbor Britnu. BUHOEO. liviiic (JO. 215 vcro^s tho VolU ('»|M> ('apo St. MtiM'od l»y (liii^lloiul t which l» imI, Ih tho iniporttiiit B atljllCHMlt imds vyhig ofty proni- 1(1 tho tall it St. Law- IH'Chnpeau ! tho crown igli. From liming well ^I., tho low ctwoon tho nd), which !»y, Hninot )usc 408 ft. oyond this ("artlior N. ;c of about of Fortune ir into tho hen named I 66 M. long. B of the bay, cries and to Hank, from lan'H Cove to n which are East Bays, I'ls. On tlie and herring wint to the [s' Cove, and ions, clo:»ely Ifroni Harbor HertiiltniCA Itny I" nn pxt^Minivc bl^lit of the m N. of I'a.MA Nliind Ttfl Rrln«-i|)al lnwn Ih llttt/iihn;r ('or, , an Ani^liian h«'MU ni"iit >> M trotii ilitrlior lirlf^di. . iif lliu >)H,v in llt«'M Mitt llav of !>«■ MpHlrf fHiiiiiiH tor ItM pruiilir MiiliiMiii-tUlii rii-H. Kniiii t|ii< Im-ikI of MiIh itay Imliun tndlH Irail inlioul to Loiik I'linil, Koiiinl ruinl, ami a Ki'<'i>t < ln^ttr of iiiiviriihd liikrt NJtniifiMl in a laml nl' iori'sts i;iii| niiiiiiiiMinH Knun tlir tmllirr i-mi nf IId'mu inland waterM dlvurx*' Mio f(rtiit trt'Mi in tin* monvMiH of April, IVIav, aiitl .lune, that there liaiH! Iteeu fitteene hundreth lulled tiieru hy one Hniall harke in the M'cre l.V,)l." In ir»U7 tlie I'lnjiliHli nhip lln/umfll ontcn-d tlio Iiarhor of Kauiea and tried to plunder the French venselH there of their Htorea and powder, l^ut wum loiced by a Hhore-liattery to leavu iiicontineiiMy. About 9 M. W. N. W. of Riunca (yolumbe, the Ht(!am(!r enters the har- bor of Burgeo, a port of entry ar;d trading-station of V>M inhal)itantH, sit- »n»tod on oik! of the liurgeo Isles, whicdi here form several small, snug harbors. This town is the most imjH»rtajit on the Western Shore, and is a favorite resort for vessels seeking supplies. 3 M. distai.t is Upper liui'f/co^ built on the grassy sand-banks of u small isha; luid 7 M. N. Ih" the salmon-fishery at Gran(ly'.s lirook, on tho lino of the N. Y., N, F. and London Telegraph. lieyond the liurgeo Isles tho course is laid along the Western Shore, and at about 25 M. the massive heights at the head of Grand iJruit Hay are seen. 6 M. farther on, after passing Ireland Island, the steamer turns into La I'oile Hay, ii narrow arm of tho sea which cleaves the hills for 10 M. The vessel tiscends 3 M. to La Poile (Little Hay), a small and decadent fishing-village on the W. shore. The distance from La i'oile to Chaimel, the last port of call, is 30 M., and the coast is studded with small hamlets. Gdiia Buy is 5-6 M. W. of La Poile, and has two or three villages, situatefl amid picturesque scenery and surrounded by forests. Bose Blanche is midway betweei La Poile and Channel, and is a port of entry v/itii nearly 500 inhabitants, situated on a small and snug harbor among the mountains. It has a con- siderable trade with the adjacent fishing-settlements. 8 M beyond Rose Hlanche are the Burnt Inlands^ and 3 M. farther on are the Dead Islands. At 8-10 M. inland are seen the dark and desolate crests of the Long- Range Mountains, sheltering the Codroy Valley. 2|i %\% Route 62. PORT AV BASQUE. The Dead IslandH (French, Le,% hlft aux Marts) are so named on account of the many fatal wrecks which have occurred on their dark rocks. The name was ffiven alter the Inwi of an emigrant-ship, when tlie iAluuds were so fringed with human rorp.>*es tiiut it took a gHiig uf men five days to l)ury them. Ueor^' Harvey formerly lived on on<' of the ixlandH. and saved hiindredM of lives by boldly putting out to tlie wrecked ships. About IHJiU tiie Dis/intrh struck on one of the isles, ithe was full of inuiiigrants, and her boat.>< could not live in the heavy gale which was rapidly breaking her up. Uut Harvey pushed out in his row-boat, attended only by his daughter (li* }ears old) and a boy 1*2 years old. He lantled every one of the passengers and crew (103 in number) safely, and fed them for three wer whole extent during the sumn.cr season. The most interest- ing parts of it may also be seen by taking the mail-packet which leaves Port au Basque (Channel) fortnightly, and runs N. to Bonne Bay, touching all along the coast. account of B uame wm riiigctl with )rm' Harvey l(il> putting <• iHleH. }?lie »' which wus ti'udt'd only y one of the wer magistrates, since the heme government helieves that such appointments would be agaiust the spirit of the treaties with France (which practically neutralized the coast). The only authority in that which is given hy courtesy to the n'sideiit clergymen of the settlements. It is 9 >I. from Channel to ('ape Ray, where the French Shore begins. The dis- tances from this point are given aa between harbor and harbor, and do not represent the stniight course from one outport to another at a great disttince. Cape Kay to (Jodrov, 13 M. ; Cape A;iguille, 18 (Crabb's Brook, 45; Middle Branch, 60; Robin.wn's Point, 55; Flat Bay, 57; Sandy Point, (55; Indian llead, 75) ; Cape St George, 54 ; Port au Port (Long Point), 84 ; Bay of Islands, 108 ; Cafte Gregory, 125; Bonne Bay, 110; (i««nCove, 147 ; Cow Harbor, 158 ; Portland Bill, 176 ; Bay of Ingornachoix (Point Rich), 20tj ; Portau (Mioix, 208 ; Point Ferolle, 220 ; Flower Cove, 245 ; Savage Cove. 249 ; Sandy Bay, 250; Green Island. 255; Cape Norman, 285 ; Pistolet Island, 292; Noddy Harbor, 30(5 ; Quirpon (Cape Bauld), 310 : Griguet Bay, 321; St. Lunaire, 326; Braha Bav,33»; St. Anthony, ^36; Goost Harbor (Hare Bay), 340 : Harbor deVeau, ;W8 ; St. Julien, 353; Cniothics. lii the grcjit battle on Grand I'ond the utmost deter- mination and spirit were shown by the Bocothics, invaded hen; in their innermost retreats. But they had only Itows and arrows, while the Micmacs were armed with guns, and at the close of the battle ut-t a man, woman, or child of the Red Indians of this section was left alive. This n>gion is densely covered with fore.-sts of large trees (chiefly fir and spruce), alternating with '' the barrens," vnst tnu-ts which are covered with thick moss. Gov Sir John Harvey, after careful inspection, claims that the barrens are under- laid with luxuriant soil, while for the cultivation of grasses, oats, barley, and pota- toes there is '• no country out of Englaml or Egvpt sujH'rior to it *" The intense and protracted cold of the winter seasons will pn'clude agriculture on a large scale. These inland solitudes an* adorned, during the short hot summer, with many brilliant flowers. Among these are gi-eat numbers of wild roses, violets, iri.-es, pitcher-plants, heather, maiden-h:iir, and vividly colon-d li«'hens ; while (sajs Sir R. Bonn.vcastle) " in the tribe of lilies, Solomon in all his glory ex(eedcd not the beauty of those produced in this unheeded wilderness."" The only whitv uian who ever yet crossed these lonely lands from shore to shore was a Scotchnuin named Cormack, who walked from Trinity Bay to St. George's Bay, in 18*22 He was ac- companied by a Micmac Indian, and the trip took several weeks. The mnps of Newfoundland cover this vast unexplored region with conjectural mountains and hvpothetical lakes. The British Admiralty chart of Newfoundland (Southern Por- tion) omits most of these, but gives minute and valuable topographical outlines of the lakes and hills N. of the Bay of Desjiair, the Red-Imlian Pond, and River of Ex- ploits, and the region of the Grand Pond and Deer Pond, with their approaches. Cape St. George thrusts a liupe line of precipices into tlie S'Oa, nnd 5 .M. beyoiul is Red Idtmd^ surroutided i>y (inrk red clin's. 25 M. farther to the N. K. is the entrance to Port au Port, a great double harbor of noble cMpacity. It is separated from St. George's Bay by an isthmus but 1 M. wdo, at the W. base of the great Table Mt. The * Bay of Islands afVonls some of the finest scenery in tlie Province, and is sheltered by several small but lofty islands. The soil along the shores is said to be deep and productive, and adapted to raising grain and produce. Limestone, gypsum, and fine marble are fcmnd here in large quantities. There are about 1,500 inhabitants about the bay. See S. G,W. lienjauiiu's ill u.-truted article, in 'flic i.'intunj Muijndnt. Aluv, 1884. HUMBER RIVER. Route 61. 219 After ao- forest-path expunge of I, and after 1. "And a ■Ci-eedt'd, to Mng HlmoRt ttle farther ' pond, ond ,nt in these wliitR man own actual narrow and he route to nf the pond d the runoe f. 3M.W [)ok, a rapid 1 Ir pasKable ■rible battle Diination of la, who had bitants. the tmost deter- r innermost armed with lied Indians ind spruce), thick moss. are under- .', and pota- The intense lar^re scale. witli many lets, iii-es, (sajs Sir ed not the uiuu \s ho nan named le was ac- le maps of ntains and them I'or- outlines of liviT of Ex- roaehes. , and 5 .M. ther to tlie of noble s but 1 M. Province, along the jrrnln and e in larpe eS.G.W. 884. At the liead of the bay is the mouth of the Humher River, tlie largest river in Newfounill;ind. In the last 18 M. of its course it is known oh the Ht'mber Sounrt, and is 1 -2 M. wide and 60 -6() fathoms deep, with lofty and ru)?pM| hills on either Bile. Great quantities of timber are fousid on these shores, and the tn)ut and sal- mon fisheries arc of considerable value. The river tiows into the head of the sound in a narrow and swift current, and is ascended by boats to the Deer I'ond. Occa- sional cabins and clearings are seen along the shores, inhabit«Ml by boiil and hardy pioneers. 3 M above the head of the sound there is a rapid 1 M. long, up which boats are drawn by lin«'H. Here '• the scenery is highly striking and picture>que, — lofty cliffs of pure white limestone rising abruptly oiit of the wcM)ds to a height of 3 4()() ft , and beiiig themselves clothed with thick wooil round their sides and over their sunmnts." Above the nipids the river traverses a valley 2 M. wide, filled with birch-groves and hemmed in by high hills. The stream is broad and shallow for 6 M. above the r^tpi 1-S where another ^eries of rapids is met, above which are the broad waters of ♦ ijeer Pond, 2-3 M. wid»' anles spotting the .sea. — tho islands of St John, llehind them is an expanse of water, alive with fish and fowl, the extremes of which are lost in tlu; deep, untntubled wilderness. A month would not suffice to find out and enjoy its manifold and pictun-siiue beauties, through which wind the deserted trails of the Rod Indians, now extinct or l)anish'jd.'' The Bay of St. Join is sep-irated by a narrow isthmus from St. Mar- garet's Btiy (on the N.), on which are the stations (if ytn^ Fen-llt and Olti Ftrolh . Beyond tho Bavs of St. (Jcnevieve and St. Barbe, with their few score of inhabitants, is Flower Core, containing a small hamlet and an Episcopal church. The great sealing-grounds of tho N. shore are next traversed; and the adjacent co;ist loses its mountainous chtiructer, tind sinks into wide plains covered with grass uud wild grain. r ■ ■' 220 Route (it. STRAIT OF \mU,K IHLR. " The Strait of lUUe hit. Tho Struit of Uollo Islo in now onl«'r«»(l to tlio N. K., innl iit .'!(» M. beyond (Jrnon Inland, Capo Norman Is romdiod, with its n»volvinjr lijrhf npludd on tlin bloak dn'!uin«'»s of the s|>r«\ -swept hill. This cupo is the most northorly point o( Newfo\tndlt»nd. -=> The SiU'neession np tin* striilt. In t'nMit of (^)»iirpon are the eold highl.'intls of .la«pies('!ntier Island. Oipe limihi is the N. p«)int of tho island of Qnirpon, and the ntost northorly p«>int of tho l'n)vineo. 14 >I. N. of ('«!>»» Hnulil, nni\ niitlwny to tlto l.i»hm«lor short', In It4)ll«« Inlo, In tho «ntrHn<<> of Mu> sirtiit. It is {M., M. lonn; inxi !< M. Iinwtl, nnti in iilt«rl\ Imrn'n nn«l uihmoIUhMo. On it^ S. (loint in h loii«>ly liglillioum', 4V() It. above the nea, r'tiptain- iuK H ti\Ml\v)in«> light Ml)i<-h li« visilile for 2S M. DuriDg (he it«*iiM< aiul liliiKling snow-,slornis tijat elteii t'wiip ovt'r tlie struit. n ninnon ts flnMJ at regular hitrrvnls; unit larjn* iio(HWiit,'4 i>f provi^ioll^ Hn> kept hen* tor tlie um> o( ^l)i|l^vl'« eked ntMriiiers. IWlwtHMi Dm', li") «n»l Ajuil 1 then* Is n«» light exhil'ited, for the-e northern «•«« are tlien »tes»'rt«s|, save l\v a few tiarhig M>al-liunt4ut i»iie ponit where tlio itiland ean Ih< appnviehed, whieli is I V^ M. tVoni the lighthouse, ami lieie the storHM Are laiiiltNl. Tlieiv is not n Inv or even a bush on th(> islam*, ami eoal Is hnporU'd lV>nu Quelnv to warm the hou.-e of the keeper,— who. though vi>lleit luit iwlee n >4>ar, i^ bappx and eontenled. The path ftiau llie landing iseut through thu moss- coveivd ro« k. and lead.s up a long and .>>(t ep a.MiMit. In th(> >«>Mr irt27 "a Canon of .'^l. I*aul in London, whieh was n girat nialhenuitl- rian, and a man iudued with wialth," sailed for tlH< Now \\()rld with twti ships, vhieli were titled «iut b> Kiug n< VIII. After they had gone to the w eh t ward fur mMn> da.\s.and had pa.«.M>d " great Hands of lee," they renehed ^* the ninynn land, all wiUierne^^e and n.ttuntaiiies and w(MNM>, and no habilation i.or n«) pet^ple in thes*' pjirts." The\ eutered the Htralt of lit lie Is.o. and then " there HroM> a great and a nuirnailous great storme, and UiUih loul weather." dining whieh the shijw* were separatetl. The eaptain of tlie Mnry of iiutljoul wiO(ehenieioiurri.ii:g hi>i oLMirt-^hip: " I trust in AheightieJesu t«>heaie g(¥> ever eanie, and situ was prulmbly lost in the Miait, will) all «tn boanl 'the i.^lundi^ of Kelle l^le and Qiiiipon were called the XtiXe^ of DeiiioiiH in the n^nu^te |vj«>t, and the av.tient luapf n present theui as covered with "devils rain- I^'Uit, witli wings.horns.ai.il IjiI.s " The> were ndd t«>befaHinatiiig but malicious, niid AndiVThivct ex»>ui>td ihcin fi-om a band tif sliicken Indians by repenting a jvirt of the tuv-iH*! of !St .lohu. The mariners feaind to land t>n tlic-e haunled ish«>n's, anil " when lhe> piih^-d this way, they heanl in the air. on the tojm and nlnnit the n asls, a great clanior of men's vi>iies, confus«>d and iiartiinlate, Mich an )ou max hear firm the cu>wd at a lair or uiarkci-place; when'upon they well knew that the Ifle of I>en.ons was m>t farotT." The brare but superstitious NornianH dan^i not land on the l^jibrndnr without the i rucitix in hand, l»elieving that thone floomy shore.t were guarded by great and terrible griffins. Tbe>« *|uaiQt legends STRAIT OF BELLE ISLE. UnuU 67. 221 ! l(»fty fttid [ on Point ulor oliorp, tho Now- •oimI (iinon (>li| on tlin . norllnMly , iind Honn in pliu'P l« (Icvotoil to •y. Miiltl- )!' ioi'borgs I tli{> HtniU. imhI. Cape I noi'tlH'ily IhIo< In tho iiui MtndiiiK kir Intrrvnln ; •i| marinn'H. d hut twiro a ll thV IIIOHM- i)\iith«, Hlid liiUiU (iio Mary of h>su to home h)8t in tho loiiH ill tlie dovilf rHiii- It niiiiii'iuUH, ropoiitiiiK n o.-o hitiiiitod 10 t()})H nnd llt«'. ^uoh HH > Will kuow iiH NorinanH : ihnt thow Riut leg«u(U undonbtodty hnd n fprA jiMindntInn Tn •Tiily, 1R78, thAroMtn nf i\w Htmlt. of l)«11« Inln won* mviiKod hy hiiiidn of limnotiMo wolvoo, who dovoiirod Mvprtil huiimn bf!lnf(fl and iH'iilPKod tito noitloiiM'iit^ tor workn. An (inoiont M.^ nf lOHU rolato« a oiiriutiH h-i^cud fif IlolM Fsif Among th*" rom- (mny on tho Hoot which ssn» roiidiiotiMl throii(,(li tho Htrnltx t«» (|iio)mio hi IM2, worn ho lirtdy Marniiorilo, itlooo tif tho Viroruy of Now Kniiioo, aimI hor loror. TiM'ir ootidiirt was Hiioh a« tn havo Honiidallwil tic flcot, and whoii thoy roiohod th« IcIm nf noniotm, llohcrval, oiiriiK''d at hor rthaiiirli>^4iM>H<), put hor on nhoro, with hor old niU'Ko. Tho lovor loapcd finni llio Hhip and jnini'd rho woiiioti, and tiio Moot nailHl Nwny. Thoii tho ilciiHiiin and llio hoHtM of h<'.l li«>){in tliiir aHHaiiltM on tho forKftkoii trio, loAring niioiit their lint at ni^lit, iiicna< ing thoin on tho Hlioro, and aMMiiltiiiK thoni in tho fon'Ht Hut tho |ionitoiit Kinnorn wi>ro t^nardcd hy Invinihio huidf* of MaintN. and kopt from peril. Aftor iimny montliM, woarl«d hy tlioiw flondlMli artnaiiltn, tho lovor diod, and wm* hooii fullowod hy tho nurM*> and tlio oliild lyond whioh It wldoiiH Into a HII fo and iiipii ioim Ihixlti 'I ho HhoroH aro noiitary and do* aortod.and far inland an' won tlio urt-nt, hill-raii)f)H oallod Tiio ('ioudn. 7 M. t,o the H. W. Ih tho cntraiiro to Moo iii^ [|arltor,aiid f» M. fiirthor S. Ih Konrfhott4', 12 M. hoyond whirh l-» . iVIlll*^ llfiy in a fitio Mhoot of wat4>r 45 \1. long and 10 - Ifi M wido. It in rnry do<'|i, and han iio IhIjikIh ox< opt huoIi at aro cIom! in nhoro Tho flnhorioM aro rar- rlod on hont to a «"onHldorahlo oxU'nt, and at t'at Oovo, .laokHon'N Arm, tJhoniic lh'(N>k, WiHomiin^H (!ovo, Hoal t'ovo, and \A>hnUrr llarhor aro itmail Hottlomonta nf ronidont fl.^horiiion. i'hnu.%' lintok U nituati-d amid nohio wonory noar tho hoail >f tho hay, (ill M. hy boat from ha Hrio. On tho iiighlandH t/i tho \V and H of Whit'.' Hay aro tho liauntH of the doer, whioh aro UHually ont^trod from ILiira flay or (il:-(M)n Hay. 3 M. S. K. of I'artridgo iNiint m La Fleur flv IJ» Inirltor, ^^o natnod from tlio .siintilation of tlio royal flosvor hy a group of tliroo !ii1Ih noar itn hoaately \\n>'tthe<| with laro-like niiflt«. Iiuaginu tho lant hundred foot ofi 'on wax l*oak,t'io very fino.Ht of the Now-llampshim mountain-tops, pricking alH>ve the waves, and you will mw thii little outp K. coaMt of NewfuiiiHlliiiid,»iid i« an uiibrokoii wall of black rock, 4-600 ft. high and 5 M. long, agiiinHt whu.'^e iuuncdiatu biUNV the dnt<> !o knowc how*' fiiri" or wlixtlin- it n-a* iH'.he, wn n.t^o wbettivr tliiTc hue an> paK-ag»' by sea through*' tiicMin.e into the t'ca ol'Siirand the l^lan«l«^a^:e. Tlic Spnn,\aide."«, ax to whose ryglit the^a.^dc i^lundef« of ppitt'H pertey!ie, d\df\i>t n'lke to l.\ iide the Hnn;e by tliin way. Th*> I'oitiigalefl hIm) luiuynge tlie tratU* ol 8|)i(«'^ in tlie.>r linndeH, d}d truiun ie (to f> nde tlii> Mime: althongii lu'therto nt*\tli«'i- nii,\e Korhe pa.<'Sii(;e w fonnde or thr ei.de of tliat lande. In the }(>!in> a tlionxnnde and line hnndredtli, (huH and dyvers otiier beantes, \vbi«'h«« they wean; with the heare inwarde in wynu-r, and ontwarde in soonin.er. This appirell they gyrdr 'o the\r bodjK'.s with gyrdela niade of eott«)n or the !^she« and b^•a^tes. They eate fy.'.Hlio more than any otber thynge, and especially wiinionH, altboiighe they have touled and frnte. They make the^ r h()n>es of timber, whereof thry hiiuc great pltntie: and in the stoade df tyles, couer them witli the skynnes of fyssbes and biastes. It in said also that there arc grift's in this land: and that the bcares and n any other beastes and fonles are white. To thin and the islande.s iibonte the san e, tbe ItiitonH ar»» accnstonied to re^ortc : as n.en of natnre agn'table vnto tben>, and born vnder the same altitnde and tenijwntture. The N«>rway« al.M> sa\ led tb.\ther with the pylotcanled .lolin Seoluo: and tbe Kngl.Nsbc u:cn with Sebastian ('alot. " The coii«it« of the lande of Ibucalaos is a gieate tratte, and the altitude thereof is xlviii degre«>H and a halle. ^ebnstian I'al ot was the fyrst tliat brought any knowl- eage of thi« land. For J eing in Englnntie in tbe dayes of Kyng Ilcnry tbe Hmenth, he fnniysluMl two ship))es at \\'\< owne charges or (as sone say) at the kynges, whom he (H>r.snmied that a |»assagi' might bee found to Cathay by the Nortli Sea^, and that ppices mygtit Im'c browght from tlHn.-e soner by that way, then by the v^agc the Portngales v>e Ity the S«'a of Snr. He win t also to know e what nianer of landeii tho.H' Indies were to inhabitc. lie had withe hyni tiOOmen, and dire« ttd bis (our.>-e by the tricte of islande nppon tb«' ('ai)e of Laborndor at Iviii degrees : atlirmynge that in the nionethe of .Inly tlu'jv was such <<)uld and be.'iiM'sof i.-c that lie durst passe no further : also that the d.iyes were very longc, and in maner withowt njight, and the nyghtcs very cleare. Certeyne it is, that at the Ix degrees, tbe longest day Is of xviii hoiu'es. Hut «onsyderynge the eonlde and tbe straungeness of the un- knownc lan*le, he turned his coune from then.-c to the West, folowiioge the coast of the land of Hacealaos vntotlic xxxviii degrees, from whvn.se be returned to Eng- lande. To conclude, the Mrylons and Danes have sfiylcA to the Baccalaos ; and J «<'ques ('artier, a Frenchman, was there twy-v with three f.aleons. " Of these lands Jacobus HastaMus wryteth Mius : ' The Newe land of Ib.eIK». H8 well to r tlu're bee ot ISlaluca, Ule greatly ihlaiidvH of PoitiigHleH till* hiune: tliut luiide. U' H vyiigo "Kilt For the >ratun', al- , and wearo he hky lines inwarde in odjcs with eate fysxlio have loule8 at i»Wiitle: iKastes, It 1 any other the HiitonH liorn vnder >r with tho .ule thereof any knowl- le Siuenth, ges, whom , and tliat vjiige (he of tundeM his (our.-e iitnnnynge t he dui'^t owt njght, ongest day of the un- tile coast ed to Eng- aiaos ; and Hi.cialnos snone and r they eate eate mans appjirell of rallies and (o naked in ix'gion of in whlche nd warlike jyther citie LABRADOR Is the ^rcat peninsulnr portion of North America which h'os to tl>e N. nnd N. W. of NnwfcMunlhind, iind is limited by tlie (Jiulf of St. LiiwriMice, tho ocean, and Hudson's May. It extends from abont 50" N. latitude to HO", nnd the cllmiite is cxtrenudy rigorous, the mean tem|)eratnre at Nain bein^ 32" 6'. Tho land is covered with low monntains and barren plateaus, on which are vast plains of moss inters[)erscd with rocks and bowlder". There are no forests, and the iidand re^fion is dotted with lakes and swamps. There are reindeer, bears, foxes, wolves, and smidler game; but their nnmber is small a. 1 decreasin<;. The rivers and lakes swarm with fish, atid the whole coast is famous for its valuable fisheries of cod and salmon. At least 1,000 decked vessels are en^;ii;(!d in the Labra- dor fisheries, and other fleets are devoted to the pursuit of seals. The commercial establishments here are comi»y the waves of tho Atlantic, for unknown ages. Every form into which rocks can be washed and broken is visible al'iug its almost interminable shores. A grand headlnid, yellow, brown, and black, in its horrid nak(HlnesH, is ever in sight, one to the north of yon, one to the south Hero nnd there upon them arc^ stripes and patches of jcilc green, — mosses, lean gnisses, and dwarf shrubbery. Occa.sionally. miles of precipice front the .eea, in which the fincy niny roiifflily shape all the stnictnres of human art. — castles, palaces, and temples. Im- agine an entire side of Hroad.vny piled »ip Kolidiv, one, two. three hundred feet in heisflit, often more, and exposed to the charge of the great Atlantic rollers, rush- ing into the churches, halls, and spacious buildings, thiuidering through the door- ways, duxhing in at the \viiilr)\vs, xwci'ping up the lofty fronts, twistitin the very cornices with silvery spr.iy, filling bnck in bright green scrolls and ca- cades of sil- very fotini ; and yet, all this inia8, and ionc-oiiiu to the vurv wild uuinialtt and birds. lA:it to the still vis- it.i.tiou of the ligiit troui t.iu mui, uioou, and Htarn, aiitl thu auroral tires, it is only fie to Ux)k upon and tiicn lie Kiv«-u ov«>r to its priiufval soliiiiriiu'.^s. Hut for tliu living thJnKfs tlu-re are thousands of hei- fair daughters wtio would love to tend them. 1 propiie.-^.v the time is eoaiing when the invalid and tourist from the 8tates will be often found spt-nding the brief hut lovely summer here, notwitU8t4;ud' ing its rugg(>duess and desolation '' (Rkv L. L. Noble) " Wihl aiv the waves wliieh lash the reefs along St. iJeorge's bank ; Cold on the coast of Labrador tne fog lies wnite and dank ; Througli storm, and wave, and liiinding mist, stout are the hearts which man The ti.shing-smaekH of Marblehead, the sea-boats of Cape Ann. •• The eold north light au 3-4 hours' sail from Battle Island, across St. Lewis Sound, and is an Esquimaux village v.ith igloes. kayaks, and other curious things pertaining to this utiiqne people There is a wharf, projecting Into the narrow liarbor{ which resenil)les a mount.iiii-lake); and the houses are clustereil about a humble little Episcopal church. «. " rnrlbon T«1an«1 fronts to the N. on the bay A -fi M , T should think, and Is a rnppi'd mountain-jii'e of dark grnv rook, rounded in it>* upper masses, ami slsished along i's shores wif'» jibrupt ehasii's. It drops sbort off, at its eastern ex^re'td^'', l»ito n narrow gulf of deep water. This is H'lttle H'irbor. The billowy pile of iirneons r«x*k, jierhaps '2/)0 ft high, l> ing between this quiet water and the broad Atlantic, ii Battle Island, and the site of the town At this moment (July) the rocky isle, SANDWICH BAY. Rmtie 62. 225 bombarded by the ocean, and flayed by the 8word of the bla/«8. . I hare never Keen Huch fiiry l()v<>lim>8» an I flixl here iipnii this lilrak ixlft, wliere nature Meiiifl to liavu b<;eii pluviiig at Hwitzt-rland. (iie^'ti and >l>I1o\v miosm-m, ankliwdcep and spotted wit a blood-rcd stains, carpvt thf crai^H and litti«> vaicn and c-radle-like hollows. >Vondfrful to Iwhold I t1ow«T» pink ami wliinv jcllow, nd, and blup, nre countlctis aM dow-drops, and hreathc out upftn tlx; piiro air tlicir odor, po spirit-like. .... Littlt; gorgoH and oliasniH, ovcrhiaiK with niiniatiin> pn>( ipirt-s, wind f;mr(>fully from the sunimitM down to uitrt the wavcH, and an; fiiird, when; tlie sun can warm ttieni, with all bloom and Hweetnctu*, a kind of wild greenhouse." The course is laid frojn Battle Hiirbor N. across St Lents Sound, which is 4 M. wide and 10 M. deep (to Fly Island, beyond which is the St. Lewis Rivei', which contains myriads of salmon). Passing the dark and rapped hills (500 ft. hiph) of Cape St. Lewis, the steamer soon reaches the small buc secure haven of Spear Harbor, where a short stop is made. The next port is at St. Francvt Harbor, which is on Granby Island, in the estuary of the deep and navigable Alexis River. An Episcopal church is located here. In this vicinity are several precipitous insulated rocks, rising from the deep sea. The harbor is ^ M. W. of Cape St. Francis, and is deep and well protected, beinp also a favorite resort for the fishing fleets. Cape St. Michael is next seen on the W., 11 M. above Cape St. Francis, with its mountainous promontory sheltering an island-studded bay. Be- yond the dark and rugged Sqmire Island is the mail-fjort of Dead Island. Crossing now the mouth of St. Michael's liay, and passing Cape Bluft' (which may be seen for 60 M. at sea), the steamer next stops between Venison Island and the gloomy clilfs beyond. Running next to the N., on the outside of a great archipelago, the highlands of l*artridge Bay are slowly passed. The Seal Islands are 24 M. N. E of Cape St. Michael, and 18 M. beyond is Spotted Island, distinguisher from view: Init Mu' unvir >?or(;e coiitinnt'tl on liesond till it was lost in li»lue HJiadow.*' On the N shoriMif the Narrows is the Hudson's Hay Company's posted" Klg;ol«tte, oooupjiun the site olan olde-r l-'reneh tradiiij;-st.iti(in. At ti«e head of the NarrowH Is Melville Lake, a fj;reat inland sea, all alonjr whose S. shore are tlie weird and won- derful voU-anic peaks of the lofty Mealy Mountains. 120 M. S. \V. of Ki^rolette, by this rt)ut<', is the il. B. ('o?npany's |)()st of N<»r«veMt, situated a little way up the N W. IJiver, near j^reat spruce fon-sts. This is tiie e..i( f trailiufj-post »»f the Moun- tiineers, a tribe of the ^rreat Cn'e nation of tiie \V«'.-t, and a tall, >;rareful, and spir- ited p<'ople In 1S40 they lir>t oiMMied eonununication with the whites. It was tiiia tribe, whiili, issuiu)? from tlie interior hijfhlands in resist less forays, nearly extiT- minated the Ks({uimaux of tiie coast 300 M from Fort Norwest is tort i\'tisro/>i«, 8ituati>d on the lleifrhts of Lmd, far in tlie dark and solitary interior. In that vicin- ity are the Grtiiid FuIIh, which Mie voyanfurs claim are l.lKiO ft.hiKli, but Factor M'Li'an says are4iK)ft. hijjh, — and below them the broad river tljushes down through a canon 3(H) ft. ikM'p, for over 30 M. 300 .M. from Fort Nascopie arc the shores of Ungava Bay. (The Ksquimaux-Bay district i.s well described in an article by Charles Hallock, liarp ••'« Mar- nu, Vol. XXII ) The Moravians ns '; -x the Ksquimaux are a proud and ent<'rprising people, low in stature, with •- * ..j ie,«M"es, small hands and feet, and black wiry hair. The men an? expert in fisliing, « > in^; seals and mana^iufi; the li.i^ht and graeeful boat called the kayak, which outride; the rudest surjres of the sea; while the women are fikilful in making g^irments from skins. Agriculture is impossible, because the country i.s covered with snow and ice for a (j^reat part of tln^ year. I'hey call them- selves Inniiils ("men"), the t«'rm Ex/tiiniaar. (meaning "caters of raw flesh") being ap))lied to theiu by the hostile tribes to the W. On the oUO .M. of the Atlantic coa.st of Labrador there are about 1,(MR» of tliese people, most of w,\om have been converted by tlie Moravi ins. They live about the missions in winter, and assemble from the remotest points to celebrate tin; mysteries of the l*as.-^ioii Week in the churches. They were heathens and demon-worshippers until 1770, when the Mora- vian Brethren occupied the coast under |K'rniission of the British Crown Tliey were formerly much more numerous, but have been reduced by long wars with the Mountaineers of the interior .md by the nivaj^es of the small-pox. The practice of iKilygamy has ceased among the tribes, and their marritges are ( elebrated by the Moravian ritual. The nii-sionaries do considerable trading with tlie Indians, and keep mag;i/jnes of provisions at their villages, from which the natives are freely fed during seasons of f.imine. At each station are a church, a store, a n is.sion-house, and shops and warm huts tor the converted and ( ivili/x>d Ks({iiimaux, wiio are fast learning the mechanic arts. The Moravian mission-ship makes a yearly visit to the Labrador stjition. replenishing the supplies and carrying away cargoes of furs. Hope.nd a church containing 74 communicants and 85 baptized children. The mean annual temperature here is 27" >^2'. The church is a neat plain l)uililiiig, wlu-re the nun and wouumi occupy opposite sides, and Uerman hymns are sung to the aiconipaniment of the violin. Main is about 8t) M. N. W. of Ilopedali-, and has about 30o inhabibints, of whom 95 are communicants and 'J4 are baptiaed children. It was founded by three Mora- vians in 1771, and occupies a beautiful position, facing the ocean from the Itottoin of a narrow haven. It is iii 57° N latitude (same latitude as the Hebrides), and tiie thermometer sometimes marks 75 ' in summer, while spirits f||K'/.e in the intensecoid of winter. OHa^ is about 120 .M N. \V of Nain, towiirds Hudson Strait, and is a very successful mission w hicli dates from 1776. Tlie station of Htbrou is still farther up the coast, and has about 300 inhabitants. Far away to the N. K., across the broad openhigs of Davis Strait, is Cape Desolation, in Greeniaiul, near the settlements of JuUanshaab. CHATEAU BAY. Route 63. 227 63^ The Labrador Coast of the Strait of Belle Isle. At Battle Harbor the Northern Co-.istal steamer connects with the Labrador mail-boat, which proceeds S. W. across the mouth of St, Charles Channel, and touches at Ca|)o ('hurles, or St. Charles //(t/-6f»/-, entering; be» tween Kishflake anecome detached and f-illen from their places. ... [It] seemed like some grim fortress of the feudal atres, from whose embrasures big-mouthed cannon were ready to belch forth tiameand smoke. On the very verge of the paraix't across stood out in liold relief in the gleaming ntooDliglit, like H sentinel upon his watch-tower." (IIallock, describing Castle Island.) Chateau was formerly conside«>d the key of the northern fisheries, and its pos- session was hotly contested by the Ki:glish and French, At the tin e of the de- population of Acudia a number of its people fled hither and estai)lished a strong fortress. This work still remains, and consi.-ts of a itastioned star-fort in masonry, with gun-platforms, magazines, and lilo( k-hou>es, surrounded by a deep fosse, be- yond which were eartliworks anil lints of stockaih's. It was al*andoiieil in 1753. and is now overgrown with thickets. In 17*>3 a liritish garnson was located at Chateau, in order to protect the fisheries, but the place wa.< captured ui 1778 l»y the American privateer JMinfrr/i, and 3 vessels and 1!70,(MM) worth of property were carried away as priiBes. In 171X> the post was again attacked by a French fleet. A long bombardment ensued between the frigates and the ahore-batterics, and it wa« not until their anununition was exhausted that the liritish troops retreated into the back country, atter having burnt the village. In 1535 the French exploring flee) under the command of Jaqui^s C»rtier a^Kijuibl^d ber^. if 228 JtouUeS. STRAIT OF BELLE ISLE. After emerging from Chntenu Bay, the course is laid around York Point, and the Strait of Belle Isle in entered (with Belle Isle itself 18 M. E.). The Labrador coast is now followed for about 25 M., with the stern front of its frowning cliffs slightly indented by the insecure havens of Wreck, Barge, and Greenish Bays. Sadclle Island is now seen, w th its two rounded hills, and the steamer glides into Red Bay, an excellent refuge in whose inner harbor vessels sometimes winter. Largo forests are seen at the head of the water, and scattering lines of huts and stages show ev deuces of the occupation of the hardy northern fishermen. Starting once more on the voyage to the S. W., at 7 M. from Red Bay are seen the Little St. Modeste Islands, sheltering Black Bay, beyond which Cape Diable is passed, and Diable Bay (4 M. W. S. W. of Black Bay). 3 M. farther to the W. the steamer enters Lovp Bay, rounding high red cliffs, and touches at the fishing-establishment and hamlet of Lance-au-Loup (which views the Newfoundland coast from Point Ferolle to Cape Nor^ man). Field-ice is sometimes seen off this shore in the month of June. Gapt. Bayfield saw 200 icebergs in the strait in August. The course is now laid to the S. W. for 3-4 M., to roimd Point Amour, which is at tlie narrowest part of the strait, and has a fixed light, 166 ft. high, and visible for 18 M. From the Rod Clilfs, on the K. of Loup Bay, it is but 11 M. S. S. E. to the coast of Newfoundlam'. " The Battery, as sailora call it, is a wall of rod saiulstone, 2-8 M. in extent, with horizontal lines extentliiig from one extreme to the other, and perttendlcular fissures resembling embrasureH and gateways. Swelling out with grand proportions toward the sea, it has a most inilit.iry and picturesiiitu appi-arance. At one point of this huge citadel of solitude there is the ri'seinblance of a giant portal, with stupendous piers 200 ft. or more in elevation. They are much broken by the yearly assaults of the frost, and the eye darts up the ruddy ruins in surpri-e. If there was anything to defend, here is a Uibraltar at hand, witii comparatively small labor, whose guns could nearly cross the strait. Beneath its pre* ipitous dill's the debris slopes like a glacis to the beach, with both smooth and broken surlii-es, and all very hand- somely decorated with rank herbage The red sand-tone shore is exceedingly picturesque. It has a right royal presence along the deep. Lofty semicircular promontories descend in regular terr.ices nearly down, then sweep out gracefully with an ample lap to the margin. No nrt could produce better effect. The long terraced galleries are touched with a tender green, and the well-hollowed vales, now and then occurring, and ascending to the distant iiori/.on between ranks of rounded hills, look g^en and pasture-like Among the very pretty and refreshing fea- tures of the coast are its brooks, seen occasionally falling over the rocks in white cascades Harbors are passed now and then, with small fishing-Heets and dwell- ings." (XOBLE.) The steamer enters Forteau Bay, and runs across to the W. shore, where are the wlilte houses of a prosperous fishing-establishment, with an Epis- copal church and rectory. About the village are seen large Esquimaux dogs, homely, powerful, and intelligent. This bay is the l)est in the strait, and is much frequented by the French fishermen, for whose convenience one of the Jersey companies has established a station here. On the same side of the harbor a fine cascade (100 ft. high) is seen pouring over the clifi's, and the fresh-water stream which empties at the head of the bay contains large numbers of salmon. 64. BLANC SABLON. Route 61 229 7 M. beyond Fortenn, Wood Island Is passed, and the harbor of Blanc 8'iblon is entered. To the W. are Unulore Bay and Bonne Fsperaiicc Bay, with their tradinp;-stati()ns; and a few miles to tlie N. \V. arc tlie Bradore Hills, several rounded summits, of which tlie chief is 1,264 ft. high. Blano Sablon is on the border-line b«»tween the sections of Labrador ■which belong, the one to the Province of Quebec, the other to Newfound- land. It Is named frouj the white sands which are brought down the river at the head of the bay. Several of the great fishing-companies of the Isle of .Jersey have stations here, and the harbor is much visited in summer. Blanc Sablon is at the VV. entrance to the Strait of Belle Isle, and It is but 21 M. from the Isle-ii-Bois (at the mouth of the bay) to the Newfoundland shore. The village is surrounded by a line of remarkable terraced hills. On Greenly Island, just outside of the harbor, 32 sail of fishing-vessels were lost on the night of July 2, 1866. Following the trerul of the N. coast of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, Blanc Sablon is distant from Esquimaux Bay 20 M., from Quebec nearly 800 M., and (in a straight line) 218 M. from Anticosti (see Route 66). From Blanc Sablon the steamer retraces her course through the Strait of Belle Isle to Battle Harbor. 64. The liabrador Coast of the Golf of St. Lawrence.— The Mingan Islands. The ports along this coasf. may be reaohed by the American fishing-schooners, from Gloucester, although tlieio can be no certainty when or where they will touch. Boats may be hired at Blune t^ublun to convey pa.^-sengers to the W. QuebfV to the Mmsic River. The steamer leaves Quebec for the Moislc River every week, and may be hired to call at intermediate ports. The pa.'-.xiige occupies 30-40 hours, and the cabin-fare is $20 (includii g meals) Tlie round trip to Moit>ic and back takes nearly a week. The N. shore of the Gulf of St. Lawrence is a region which is unique in its dreari- ness and desolation. The scenery is wild nnd gloomy, and the shore is fHced with barren and storm-l>eaten hills. The climate is rigorous in the extreme. Tiiis dis- trict is divided into three parts, — the King's Posts, witli 270 M. of coast, from Port Neuf to Cape Cormorant ; the Seigniory of Mingan, from Cape Cormorant to the River Agwanus (135 M.) ; and the liahrador, exunding from the Agwanus to Blanc Sablon (16*) M.). Along this 6')1 M olcojisfc there are ((onsus of 1861) but 6,413 in- habitants, of whom 2,Hr2 are French Canadians and 8.33 are Indians. 1,764 are fish- ennen, and 1,038 huntem^. In the W"A) M. there are but 380 houses, 673a arpents of cultivated land, and 12 horses. There are 3,841 Catholics, 570 Protestants, and 2 Jews. The wide Bradore Brnj is near Blanc Snblon, to the W., and has been called "the most picturesque %\)Ol on the Labrador." In the hack coun- try are seen the sharp peaks of the Bradore Hills, rising from the wilder- ness (1,264 ft. high). The bay was formerly celebrated for its numerous humpbacked whales. The village is on Point Jones, ou the £. side of the bay. 230 nmite 64. ESQUIMAUX BAY. i BriMlore Bay \» of f^'eat extent, and \» ntuddeil with clutters of inlets, wtilch make broad diviHiouH of the roadstead. It wait known in ancii'nt tiuieH ad Lii Baie dex lettes,iiuil vian frnintcd by France to the Hieur lj<' (Jardour de Courtonianrhe (who, according to tradition, married a l*rin«'eHs of Franc*', the diiij;hter of lienri IV.). That nobleman Kent out a^ent.t and otflcern, named the new port Philifjitaux, and built at its entrance a bulwark called Fort I'ontchiirtrain. From liini if de- hccnded to Sieur Foucher, who added the title " de l/tbrador " ' to hi>« name ; and there Btill exi>tH a send-noble family in France, bearing the name of Foiirhii de L'lhrat/or. On thiH bay wan the town of lirt^Ht, which, it in daimetl. wiin founded by men of Hrittany, in the year 1508 If tliis staUunent is correct, Urewt wua the fii>t Euro- pean ^^ettlement in America, anted (ting by over thirty u'ars the foundation of St. AufCUKtiiie, in Florida. In loJi') Janues Oartier met French ve»Hel.'< searchiu); for tldx port. About the .^ear l»KK) Ilrest wju* at the height of itn pro.«'perity, and had 1,(J()0 |)ermanent inhabitant.^, 2lK) liouseH, a governor and an almoner, and Htroug fortiHcu- tions. After the Hubjugation of the E.s({uimaux by the Montaignais, it wa« no longer dangerous to establiKh nmall li.xhing-station.>< along the coast and Unst began to decline rapidly. Kuins of its ancient works may still be found here. The Bay of Hunne-K^inrnnce is one of the most oiipacious on this coast, and is sheltered from the sea l>y a doublo line (jf i.sjets. The port is called Bonny by the American fishermen, who resort here in great numbers during the herring-season. The islands before the harbor were passed by Jnques Cartier, who said that they were "so numerous tiiat it is not pos- sible to count them " Thev were formerlv (and are sometimes now) called Les Isles de la Demoiselle; and Th^vet locates here the tragedy of Kober- val's niece Marguerite (see page 221). Esquimaux Bay is N. of Bomie-Ksperance, and is 8 M. in circumference. 2 M. above Ksquimaux Island is a small trading-post, above which is the mouth of the river, ai)0unding in salmon. There is a great archipelago between the bay and the (iidf of St. Lawrence. On one of these islands an ancient fort was discovered in the year 1840. It was built of stone and turf, and was surrounded by great piles of human bones. It is supposed that the last great battle between the French and Montaignaisand the Ksquimaux took place here, and that the latter were exterminated in their own fort. 18 M. W. of Whale Island are Mi8tano(]ue Island and Shecatica Bay, beyond Lob- Bter and Ilocky Harbors. I'ort St. Augustine is 15 M. W. of Mistaiuxjue, beyond Shag Island and the castellated highlands of Cumberland Harbor. A line of high islands extends hence 21 M. W. by S. to Great Meccatina Island, a granite rock 2x3 M. in area, and 5()0 ft. high. The ,oats are hailing, Horn answering unto horn. " Hurrah : for the Red Island, With the white cross on itn crown ! Hurrah ! for Meccatina, And its mountitins hare and hrown I Where the Caribou's tall antlers Oer the dwarf -wood freely toss. And the footstep of the MieKniack Has no sound upon the muss. " Hurruh I — hurrah ! — the west-wind Conies freshenini; down the buy, The rising sails are filling, — Give way, my lads, give way ! Leave the coward lanasnien clinging To the dull earth, like a weed, — The stars of heaven shall guide us, The breath of heaven shall speed I " John G. Whjttieks Songq/ the Fishermen, II THE MTNGAN ISLANDS. Route U4. 231 Vrom the quantity of wreck found anionfr thew Islands, no doubt many ntplan- choly nhJpwwokM Ixivo tukcii plaor, which have iicvrr h«>«'n hwirtl of; evfiii if the unfortunate crews lHn«|t>d (>n theharn-n nnks, thi'.v would iwrisii of cold and hunf;er« The " o);j?er« " rarrv oil thoir ilii-pil husiiH'xs aloii); thf.»»> >>hor»'s, wh«'i»' millions of wa-hirds hav<' flicir hr<*«'dinK-pla «'s. 'I'Ih'.v land on fin' inlands and hrnik ail the e\ipi, and when tin* hirds lav fr«>sh oiu's tli<'\ pitlit-r flnni np, and hmd tlicir txmts. Thorc ar«' ahout '20 v«'SH«'ls «nf?a(f«Ml in tins rnntnihand tnidr, carninij; tlic v^-V,* to Halifax, Qurht'c, and Hoston. " Tlu'sc men < ondiin** t<)p'tli('r,and form a stron)rroui- pany. They suffer no one to interfere with tlieir business, drivinjr awny the fisher- men or any one else that attempts to colUTt e^f^s near where they hap|)«-n to lie. Might makes rif^lit with them, if our information be true Tliey tiave arniH, and are wnd by the fishermen not to be serupulous in the use of tlieni. As soon as tliey have filled one vessel with ejtgs, they nend her to market ; others follow in siicces- sion, so that the market is always supplied, but never overstocked. One vessel of 25 tons is said to have cleared £ 200 by this ' egging ' business in a favorable season." (Nautical Magazine.) To the W. of Ciipc Whittle arc tlie Wolf, Concooho, Olomanosheebo, Wnsh-shecootiii, niid Miisquarro Kivcrs, on the Inst three of which are po.sts of the Ilud.-ou's Bay Coinpauy. Next coine tlio Ki'fiashka Hay and River, tlie clift's of Mont Joli, the cod bunks olV Natashquan Point, and several obscure rivers. The Mingan Islands are 29 in number, and lie between the moun- tainous .shores of lower Labrador and the island of Anticosti. They abound in geoloj^ical phenomena, ancient beaches, d('nutiiet. Ine walrus iisheiies were fonrerly of great vah.e In re, and their n;eu -e shor 's the great sea-cows used to land. " in lh52 tmre was nut a single estabdshnient on the coast, between the Bay of Mingan and tlie teve- Isles, and not a quintal of codfish was taken, except on the banks of Mingan a' at the Kiver iSt. John, which the American fisheruu n have frequented for mai years. Now, there is not a river, a cove, a creek, which is not occupied, and every >t ..f thors 232 Bouts 64. THE MINGAN ISLANDS. are taken 80-86,000 quintals of cod, without counting other flflh/* " The once desolate cotuit^ of Mingan have acquired, by immigration, a vijforoufi, moral, and truly Catholic population. The men are gunurally Mtrong and robust, and above all they are hardy seamen."' On the W. edge of the Mingnn Islahds are the Perroquets, a cluster of low ro<'.ks where great numbers of j)ufltiiis l)urrow and rear their yt)ung. On these islets the steamslil[).s Clydt and North Briton were wrecked (in 1857 and 1861). A beach of white sand extends W. from Long Point to tlie St. John River, a distance of 18-20 M. The river is marked hy the tall adjacent peak of Mount St. John (1,416 ft. high); and furnishes very good fishing (see G C. Scott's " Fishing in American Waters ") The Manitou River i^ 34 M. W. of the St. .lohn, and at 1^ M, from its mouth it makes a grand leap over a cliff 113 ft. high, forming the most niagniticent catiinu^t on the N. shonv The const Indians still ropeat the legend uf the invasion of this country by the Micmacs (from Acadia), 2tK) years ago, and i^8 heroic end The hos- tile war-ptirty encamped at the falls, intending to attack the .Montaignais at the portages, for which purpose forcca were statioiiwl above and below. But the local tribes detected their presence, and cut off the guards at the «'anoes, then surprised the detachment below the fulls, and finally attack«'d the main biMly above. After the unsparing carnage of a long night-battle, the .Micmiics v »>re c(»nfiuered, nil save their great wiai,ird-<'hicf, who stood on the verge of the falls, singing songs of de- fiance. A Montaii^nais chief rushed forward to take him, when the bold .Mi(*mao seized his opponent and leaped with him into the fo iming waters They went both borne over the precipice, and the falls have ever since been known as the Manitousin (Conjurer's) Kails. The Moisic River is about 40 \L \V. of the Manitou River, and empties into a broad bay which receives also the Trout River. At this point are the Moisic Iron Works, near which there are abojit 700 hdiabitants. most of whom are connected with the mines. This company has its cliiof office in Montreal, and runs a weekly steamer between Moisic and Quebec (see page 231). There is a hotel here, where visitors can get plain fare at $6 a week (no liq\iors on the premises). Large quantities of coilflsh and sal- mon are exported from Moisic. The Seven Islands are a group of barren "mountain-peaks, starting suddenly from the ocean," and situated several leagues W. of the mouth of the Moisic River. They were visited by Cart ier (1535) who rei>ortod that he saw sea-horses here; j»nd in 1731 they were inchulod in the Domaine (hi Roi. The trading-post which was (stal)Iislu»d lu'ro by the Frencli, 140 years ago, subseqtuMitly reverted to t!ie Hudson's liny Com- pany, and is visited by 3-400 Nasqnapee Indians. Since the departure of the II. H. Coinptuiy, the post itscH" lias lost its importance, bijt all ves- sels trading on the N. shore arc \)o\v obliged to get their clearances here. The Montaignais Indians had a broad trail running thence up a vast and desolate vallev to Lake St. John, 300 M S. W., and the Moisic River was jmrt of the canoe-routo to Huoson's Hay. The I ntaignais wore here secure from the attacks of the dreaded Mohawks on the one side, and the nuiritime Esquimaux on the other, and here they received the Jesuit mis- sionaries. THE SEVEN ISLANDS. Route 64: 233 The pcenery of the Bay of Seven Islands Ia famed for its wild beauty and weird desolation. The bay is 7 M. long, and is sheltered by the islands and a uiountninous promontory on the W, The inin.ediHte shore is a fine sandy btac h, ba< k of wliirh are broad lowlands, and " the t\\o paraiU'l ran^rcs ot monntnins. vhich tidse. brant, and other will fowl, and die salmon-fishing in the ndjac-ent streams i.s of \m",\i value. The iirrut Bou.e is the loftiest of the feven blands, reachirK nn altitiitlc of 7IH) fl. almve the sea, and roninianding: a broad and niapiititoot view. There are about 8(K) inhal*- itants here, a large proportion of \shoni aie Indians who are engaged in the fur- trade. On Carrousel Island is a fixed light, 195 ft. above the sea, which is visible for 20 M. From Carrousel Island to the St. Margttret River it is 8 M.; to tlie Cawee Islands, 24; to Sprouic Point, 28; and still farther W. are the Pentecost River and Kngli.sh Point, otT which are the Eggp Islands, heal- ing a revolving white light, which warns oflf mariners from one of the most dangerous points on the coast. In the spring of 1711 the British government sent ngninst Quebec 15 men-of-war, under Adndral Sir llovenden Walker, and 40 tran.'ports containing &,000 vtterau soldiers. During a terrible August storm, wl)ile the\ were ascending the Unit of St. Lawrence, the fle<'t drove down on the ^g Islands. The frigates were saved from the shoals, but 8 transports were wrecked, with 1,3>«3 men on lioard, and '•884 brave fellows, who htid passed scathlcs.< thioiigh the sangninar> battles of Blenheim, Haniillies. and Oudenarde, peri>lied niiserat>ly on the desolate shores of the 8t. Lawren< tetriMe loss was the cause of the total tailure of the eXr pedition. The Fn-nch vcsk'Is which visited the i.-lcs after W'iilker's disaster "found the wrecks of 8 large vessels, from which the «'ani.on and best arti< les had been re- moved, and nearly 3.(KI0 persons drowned, and thiir hotlies lying aUing the shore. They ret-ognized among them two whole conipani(>s of the Queen's Uuards, dln- tinguished by their nd coats, and sev«ral S a Providence which wati-hed singularly over its preservation , and which, not s.itisfled with rescuing it from the gri'atest danger it had yet run, Imd enrii hed it with the spoils «.f an enemy whom it had not had the pains to conquer ; hence they reuden-d Him luont heart- felt thanks.'^ (Oiiarlkvoix.) Beyond the hamlet on Cnrihou Point and the deep bight of Trinity Bay is Point de Monts (or, as some say. Point oux Demons)^ 2f'0 .M. from Que- bec. There is a powerful fixed light on this promontory. 8 M. heycnd is Gitffboiit, with its fur-trading post; and 9 M. farther W. is Cape St. Nicho- las. 18 M. from the cape is Manicouagan Point, 20 M. W. of which is the great Indian trading-post at the BersimU River, where 700 lu'lians have their headquarters; thence to Cape Colomhier it is lljj M.; and to the church and fort tit Port NetifU is 12 M. Point Mille Vaclios is r)|)posite Biquette, on the S. shore of the St. Lawrence, and Is near the SouU de Afouton, a fall of fO ft. There tire s«'von»l sottleinents of French Catholic farmers along the shore. At Lts h'snniinnins there are 500 itdiahitniits and considerable ijuantities of gniiii and Imnlicr an; shipped. 'I'lic coast is of gran te, steep and bold, ami runs S, \V. 10 M. to Pttite Btryervnne, whence it is u^ M. to the moutli of the Saguenay River. 234 H 118 M. lotij; and 31 M. wide. In 1871 it hiul abont 80 inljuhitnnts, in charge of tho govcrnmt'iit lights and stations, and also 50 acres of cleared land and 3 horses. Fox River is (50 M. distant; the Mingan Islands, 30 M.; and Quebec, about 450 M. The island has lately ijccn the scene of the operations of the Anticosti Land ('oujpany, which designed to foinid here a new Prince Kdward Island, covering these pe:at-plain.s with prosperous farms. The enterprise has as yet met with but a limited succo>s. Anticosti has some woodlands, hut Is for the most part covered with black |)eaty bogs and ponds, with broad lagoons near the sea. The bog? resemble those of Ireland, and the forests are composed of low and stunted trees. The shores are lined with great piles (tf driftwood and the frag- ments of wrecks. There are n:any bears, otters, (*)\v<^ and martens; also partridges, geese, brant, teal, and all manner of aqiuitic fovl. The months of July and August are rendered miserable by the presence of immense iwarms of black flies and mosijuitoes, bred in the swamps and bogs. Large whales arc seen o(V these shores, and the early codfish are also found here. Fine limestone and marlde occur in several places; and marl and peat are found in vast quantities. There are lighthouses at S. W. Point, S. I'oint (and a fog-whistle), W. Point (and an alarm-gun), and Heath's Point. The government has established supply-huts along the shores since the terrible wreck of the Granicits, on the S. K. point, when the crow reached the shore, but could find nothing to eat, and were obliged to devour each other. None were saved. In 1(590 one of Sir William Pliipps's troop-ships was wri>rkoyiien tile ice broiio up, tlieso brave fellows started in a row-hoat for Huston, 000 M. distant ; and after a passai^e of 44 divs thev reached their old home in safety. The ifl'iK 581,920; 1801, 4,8 Britain e the same ports of with (ir» stuffs an there arc The li PROVINCE OF QUEBEC. QuEBKC is bounded on the W. by th'» Provir.ce of Ontario, on the X. by the wilderness towards lliulson's Bay, on the K. by Maine, Labrador, and the (inlf of St. Lawrence, and on tht; S. by New Hrnnswick, N«'W Kn^- hmd, and N»'W York. It covi'rs 18S,cunery, amid whicti are beautiful lakes and ^lens. The Province of (inebec ha^ l,48H,:.«ti inhal)itants (census <»f 1S91), the vast majority of wiiom are of Kreiich descent and lanj;ua;;e. 1,170,718 of the pe<»ple are Konnin Catholics, and the laws of education are inodilied t«) suit the system of parish-schools. 'I'lhre are «;8,7'.t7 (hurt h-of-iCn^land people, 50,287 Presbyterians, and IVJMI Methodists; l,07.{,8-20 an; of Pnnch ori,i,nn, 12.1,74!> Irish, H|..'iir) Kn;;lisli, and r)4,!»'2.{ .Scottish. The |)on\inion of Canada is ruled l»y a (Jovernor-tJeneral (appointed by the British sovereifj:n) and Privy Council, and a Parliameiit consisting (»f 8) senat(»rs(24each from Ontario and (Quebec, 12 each from Nova .Sc(»tiaand New Brunswick, and !) from P. K. Island, .Manitoba, and British Columbia) and 208 members of the House of Connnons. There is one n «'ml>er f(»reach 17,000 souls, or 8!> for Ontario, Cut for<^uel)e<'. 21 for Nova S<"otia. Ml for New Brunswick, (> each U>v Prii ce Kdward Island and British Columbia, ami 5 for M.mitoba. There are .'10,144 Cnnadian militiamen, with a military school at Kingston; and the navy eonsi-.ts of S armed scn«w-steamers (on the lakes and the (inlf). In 18(n)Cat)ada had 21().0()0 iniiabilantx; in i82o. 581,920; in 1851, 1,842,2(55; i" 1871,3,057,887; in 1881, 4,324,810; and in 181)1,4,829,411. Between 1842 and 1872, 8;U,l()8 emiKranis from Great Britain entered ('anada; and in the same period, 4,338,080 persons, from the same kingdom, emigrated to the United States. The exports and im- ports of Canada amount to about S!iO;000,0()0 a year. Her chief trade is with (ireat Britain and the L^nited States, and the main exports are bread- stuffs ami timber. The Dominion has over 10,000 M. of railways, and there are more than (),000 -ostollices. The tirst European explorer who visited this country was Jacques Car- M . I 1 i.. 236 PROVINCE OF QUEBEC. tier, who landed at Gaspp in 1534. and ascended the St. Lawrence tothepUe of Montreal during the followinor year. Seventeen yeur^ hitr the ill-futed Roberval founded an ephemeral colony isear Queoec, and tiicieafter for over half ji century Canada was unvi^ited. In I6O0 ^ ariij.'l:!!; ascended to the site < ♦" Montreal, and ()uehec anil .Montreal were >*oou founded ; while ti)'3 labors of explorations, ni ssions, and lighting the Ironoj^js ,vtM*6 carried oji without cessation. In 1629 Canada was taken i>\ ;ui Log!! ;j iie t under Sir David Kirke, hut it was restored to France in 1G32. The Company of the Hundred Associates was founded l)y Cardinal Kichelicu in 1627, to erect settlements in L(i Nouvtllc France^ but tlie daring and merciless in- cursions of the Iroquois Indians prevented the growth of the colonies, and in 1663 the company was dissolved. Finally, after they had exter>ninated the unfortunate Huron nation, the Irociuois destroyed a part wf Mon- treal and many of its people (1680). The long and bitter wars between Canada and the Anglo-American colonics had now conunenced, and New York and New Kngland were ravaged by the French troops and tiieir allied Indians. Naval expeditions were sent from Boston aguin'«t Quebec in 1690 and 1711, but they both ended disastrously. Montreal and its environs were several times assailed by the forces of New York, but most of the fighting was done on the line of Lake Cham|)lain and in tlic Maritime Provinces. At last these outposts fell, and powerful British armies entrreJ Canada on the E. and W. In 1759 Wolfe's army captmed Quebec, «f" r a pitched battle on tlie Plains of Abraham; and in the f<»llowinj> year Montreal was occupied by Gen. Amherst, with 17,000 men. The F.ench troops were sent honip; and in 1763, by the Treaty of Paris, Franco ceded to Great Britain all her immense Canadian domains. There were then 67,000 French people and 8,000 Indians mi the Province. The resident population was conciliated by tolerance to their religion and other liberal measures, and refused to join the American Colonies when they revolted i.i 1776. Tl^r .nnv c»f (Hen. Montgomery took Montreal and the adjacent cotuitry, hut th« : aiiadians declineil either to aid or to oppose the Americans: aiul when Arnold was defeated in his attenipt to storm Quebec, the Continental forces were soon driven back into the United States. In 1791 the Provinces of Upper Canada and Lower Canada were fornu'd, in order to stop the di-'^content of the Lnglish population, who were thus st'paraieuii- try, and its inhabitants like colonists ; but to me, coming from >ew Engliiutji. ... it appeared as old as Normandy itself, and reali/x^d nm
  • M)umbli iinadian village:^ a>tectoU me as if tiiey had be:fitli's ; oi .f a nionutain, tlmt it w speak, witli the intoxit atiou of poetry, — Chanihly, LonaiKUil, Hointt mix Tn ni< .v, Barthii!(ttrii/,i>tc.,vU\, -us if it needeil only a little foreign accent, a tew more Ui|uids and f >wels |>ercUaiue in the languiige, to make us locate our iile:ils at once. I began to dream of I'lov^Mjre and the Troubadours, and of places and things which h".v»* no existence on the earth They veiled the Indian and the primitive forest, and thy woods toward Hud- sou's Bay were only as the forests of France and Oerniuny. I could not at oncti bring myself to believe that the inhaliitants who pronounced daily those b«ftutiAil and, to me, signiflcaut names lead as pro.^uic lives as we of New England. 238 Route 66. PICTOU TO QUEBEC. " One of the tributaries of the Hi. Anue is named La Rividre ilr. la Rose, and far- ther east are La Rivi&re tie li UhM/elle and Ln Riviere t/e la Friponne. Their very riviire meanders more than (»vu rirur [It is] a more western and wilder Arca- dia, methinks, than the worl), we learn that in the year 1920 the valleys of the Soguenay, Ottawa, and Lower i^t. Liawrcnce shall l;e occupied by a Franco- Canadian nation of 6,000,000 souls ; that the n ournful vices, " impoverishment of intelligence, and corruption of manners," which the Anglo-American race in the United States h;is suffered, shall i)e opposi-d ami clucked by the fecund genius of the French race, and the " scientific and artistic aptitudes of the Canadians," emanating continent-enlightening radiance from the walls of the Laval University ; that the dissolute barbarism of the Americans shall be an.eiionited by the sweet influences of the '• Oreco-Latin ldea"of tlu- Franro-Canatlians ; and that that agricultural and intellectual people, " the general and essential principle of whose material and intellectual power is in their lelij^iuus faith and in the simplicity of their manners," sliall profit by the sad experii-nce of Old France, — and umler the conservative influ- ences of a social aristocracy shall er«H't a New Fraix e, to be forever illustrious in its culture " de Vesprit^ la inodtslie de.s inaurs, la liberti et la rtligion.'''' 66. Pictou to Quebec. — The Coasts of Oaspe and the Lower St. La.iTence. This voyat^e is full of interrst to the lover of fine scenery, and leads through some of the most attractive parts of the l*r(>vinees. The vessels pass the lofty highlaiwls of Nova Scotia, the Acadian districts on the sandy shores of New liruii.swick, the stately mountains about the Bay of Chaleur, and ti". frowning rid^a's of (Jaspe. Then comes the ascent of the Uiajestic St. I^awrcMcc, with its white French villages, its Alpine shores, and romantic history, terminated hy the (piaint medixval towers of Quebec, ' the Walled (Jity of' the North." The steamers are krge and comforfahlc, and are (juite steady in ordinary seas(»ns. The cabin-tables are "^'ti siippi'-d, and the attendame is good. There is but little danger from soa^-icktiii? •., e.xci'pt in very breezy weather (see also page 3). Till f»mte h sc ved by the vessels of the (^iieljec Steamship Company. Passenger^ Wxxw Halifax by railway every other Monday morning, and connect vvi;h ti»e ^teamj^hip which leaves IMctou on the sanje evening, call- inicj at (Miailottetown and Sun^merside (Prince KrctMpope (170 M.). SttniiitMs ply between Dalhousie and Miiriii, which is near the famous salnioii-lisliing grounds of the (Jrand Cascapedia IJiver, Inug frefiiiented by ['resident Arthur, Lords Lorne, Duffcrin, and Lansdowne. and others. Halifax to Pictou, see Route 31. St. .lohn to Shediac, see Route 14. After leaving Pictou Harbor, the steamship passes out between ('uribou Island and Pictou Island («ce idso page 17')), and enters the Northumber- land Strait. On the S. are the dark highlands of Pi(;tou ('ouiity, among whoso glens are scattered settlements of Scottish people. 10-12 M. N. are the low hills of Prince Kdward Island. The deep bight of Tatamaginicho Bay (see page 81) is passed abf)ut 35 M. W. of Pictou, and the blue and monotonous line of the ('obefjuid Mts. may bo seen in the S , in very clear weather. Beyond Bale Verte the steamer passes through the narrow part of the Strait between (^ape Traverse and Cape Tonnentine, and the low red shores of Prince Kdward Island are seen on the r. flio course is next laid along the level Westmoreland coast (see page 60), and the har- bor of Shediac is entered. The general aspe(!t of the N. Shore of New Rnmswick is described in Route 15 (page 00). It is to bo remembered, however, that the (Jtilf- Ports steamships do not stop sit Kichibucto, liatburst, or Oampbellton. Having, then, dcucribed the coast from Shediac to Dalhousie in Koufo 16, the present route will follow the shores of the great Gaspesian peninsula. The Quebec steamers no longer visit Carleton and Paspebiac. As the steamship leaves the estuary of the Restigonehe, the red sand- stone dilfs of .)f(i(/unch(i Point are passed, on the 1., beyond which is the broad lagoon of Carleton Road. The beautiful peak of * Traoadiegash is now approached, and after passinjj the lighthouse on Trrtcadiejrnsli Point, the white village of Carleton is seen on the Quebec shore. This place has about 800 iidmbitants and a convent, and is simgly situated under the lee of the mountains, near a bay which Is secure duritig gales from the N. and E. Immense sclu)ols of herring visit these shores during the springtime, at the spawning seasoji, and are caught, to be used as food and for fertilizing the ground. The village is enterprising and active, and is inhabited chiefly by Acadians. The steamer stops otV the port if there are any passengers or freight to be landed. For Pen.e, Ciaspc, I'asiKjbiac, etc., see Cmltiry M'i;/>iJnc, March, '884. I n 240 itoute en. PASPEniAC ••ruHcton \^ n prptty town, t«i whioh a >«toRm«»r fometlmon punn fVom Camp- belUoii, ri'iiilrrlnjr tin* Hiilninn wtn-niiiH in tin- vicinity <|iiit«' ncecHNil*!*'. When the f\u\ shint'H, it« wliitc t ottii):*'-', nf-nHinn at flu- foot, of Cic niHJ«>stir TniOfuliri;iiRh Monntnln. jtlistni lik«» Hncnv-ttakrs jipaltist tin* ^iolllh^* Itarkirroiii <|, ami (;l(>ani out in loToly contract witli tlioclonil tliat tap Mii> Mimniit ol' tliiH outpotit Hvntiufl of tlic Ailegliany rangtv'' (IIai.loi K.) The sti'iumT mow piissr-* eaks of the Tracadiejiash ranjje are seen in tine retn)S|)ective views. New CarU»h' is near the month of the (Jrand Uonaventure Kiver, and is the ca]>ital of |i..iiaveutnrc Cotnity. It has 7'>(» iidiahitants, and Is en- gaged in thf lisherie-, haviii by American Loyal- ists, who received from the govennnent one year's i)n»visions, lands, seeds, ami farmimr-implements. ,* 400,000 was expended in establishing this settlement and f)tain the place. Rnldn vt (^». is an anri«>Tit house whicli dates from 17fi8, and hnx its headquarters at the Isle of .lers»«\ , olf tiu" coiu^t of Fniiue. I'asiK'liiar was settled in \~i^\ by Churles Itobin, who estal>ii>li4Ml here a jar^e llshin^ station. In June, 177S, the place was taken liy two Anwriran privativi's, which carried uway the vesM'ls Uopt and Bte. The wlmle tieet was soon afterward captun-d t»y H. H Si friffates Hunter and Pip»r, but RoliJn was forced to pay such heavy salvage ^lat it ruined liis business. In 17.'*y lie came ha«'k here under French colors andin 20 years accmiiuiated a jyreat fortune The flrni of Ciiarles Ro'r.in &• Co is now the most powerful on nil these roasts, and keeps large tle«'ts employed, supporting numerous village!- from 7 wealthy estab'lshments. Tin- la-ads of the finn live in .lersey, and their officers and man- agers on this coast are forced by nde to lead a life of celibacy. This company em- ploy* "oO men, besides 17 vessels and lol sailors ; and the lifBoutilliers have 580 men and l") vessels They export vast ipiantities of fl.-h and oil to the West Indies and the Mediterranean, supplying their Canadiim posts. In return, with all needed product-* of other countries I*as|>«biac n-eeives ^l'iO,s in tub» to Hra/.tl, and in caj^ks t« the Wet Indies, 'I'he Jersey lleet reaches l*as|H'biac early in May, spends the summer fishing in the bay and Gulf, and returns In December. The Amerienn mar- ket is supplied by the fapi'-Atni H«'<'t in these waters; aniiiu ritit .>ntiu«'l of ouH Uiiy lie wind lie li()() (ralloni of cod-oil. The fltheriea of the l>av and <«ulf are valued at $ HU<),(KH) a year, aud employ 1,G(X) suii of vvmhcIs anet4T siniietiiues sinks to 2i'»" below a;ro, and the buy is ovet-hung by dark niiisse-i nf " frost smoke.' In this season the Aurora Itoreaiis itt s<>4>n by niKlit, illuminating tiie whole northern horizon with steady brilli.inee. In July and AuKUst the thennouieter rangi;s from f)6" to 106°, and the air is tiMupen-d by fn>sh s«ti-br«'e/.es. The name Pasfifhiar means " broken banks," and the Inhabit^intK are called Pa^'py .lacks or I'ospillots. Many of tlie bitw of iipite and jJis|H'r called " Oaspe peb- hies'' an! found on this shon> aft«>r the f;ales of Hprint; and autumn, and are sent to the jewellers of liondon and Quebec. It ia supposed that thoy couie from the con- glomerate rocks on the Restijjfouche lliver. Beyond I'lispebiac un; the shores of Hope, on which immense masses of caplin-fiNJi are thrown up every spring. Ilufy are shovcdled into wagons by the farmers and are used to fertilize the land. The next po"nt of in- terest is tiie deep hay of Port Daniel, a safe and well-sheltered haven, on wliose W. shore is a remarkable hill, 400 ft. high. Near the fishing- viUago up tlie harbor are deposits of oil-bearing shale. 'Ihc steamer soon passes Point Mat/uei'enu (which some consider the N. portal of the Bay of Chaleur). with I'oint Miscou on the S. K. At midniffht on Oct. 15, 18138, the ship Cn'orne went a.shore on Point Maqucreau, and was soon brokcii t(» pie«'es. Her crew, consintinj^ of 4'2 men, w&h Umt. The cargo was comjMsed of silks, wines, silver-plate, and s|>e<'ie, and wiw valued at over S 400,000. The wreckers of (iaspe recovered rich treasures from the wreck. Nfwpoi't is 6 M. beyontl I'oint Mtiquereau, and is inhabited by 200 Aca- dians, who are devoted to the tisheries and to the jmrsuit of the vast Hocks of wild fowl which resort to these shores during the spring and autumn. Great and Little Pabos are seaside hamlets, 4 and 8 M. farther K. 4 M. beyond is Grand Rirer, a large Acadian village clustered about the fish- ing-establishment of |{obi4i & Co It is 7 M. from this point to Cape Despair. Cape Despair was named by the French Cap iPExpoh, or Cape Hope, and the present name is either an Anjflicized jiroiiuiiciation of this French word, or else was given in memory of the terrible disaster of 1711. During that ycjir Queen Anne sent u great tioet, with 7,iX)0 soldii-rs, with orders to capture Quehec and occupy Oanada. The Heet wjw under Admiral Sir Ilovenden Walker, and the army wjis commanded by Gen. Hill. During a bliu'k fog, on the '22d of August, a violent storm arose and scattered the tiect in all directions, hurling 8 larj^e ships on the terrible ledges of Egg Island (see page 23^3) and ('ape Despair, where they wm; lost with all on i)oard. Fragments of the wrecks, called Le Naufrn^e Ant^lmf, wen; to be s«!en along the shores until a recent date; and there was a wild .superstition among the fisliermen to the effect that sometimes, when the sea was quiet and calm, vast white waves would roll inward from the (lulf, bearing a phantom ship crowded with men iu ancient military costumes. An officer stands on the bow, with a whlt^'-clad woman on his left arm, aud as the maddened surge sweeps the ilcx)med ship on with light- aiiig speed, a trcMuendous crash ensiifs, the clear, agonized cry of a woman swells over the great voice of despair, — and naught is seen but the black clilTs aud the level sea. Just beyond Cape Despair is the prosperous fishing-station of Cape Cove^ M. from Perc^. The traveller should now be on the lookout for the Perc6 Rock and Bonaventure Island. The steamer runs in between the Rock and the Island, affording fine views of both. U » I 242 Route 66. PERCE. The • Pero< Book is 288 ft. high, risinp with precipitous walls directly from the waves; and is about 500 ft. lonp;. Tliis citadel-like cliff is pierced by a lofty arch, through which the long levels of the sea are visible. Small boats sometimes traverse this weird ]):iss:ige, utider the immense Gothic arch of rock. There was formerly another tunnel, near the outer point of the Kock, but its roof iVll in with a tremenilous crash, and left a great obelisk rising from the sea bevond. The 8Uii)init of tlio Perc6 Hack covtTH nhoiit two arri'S', niul is divided into two great districts, one of whicli is iuliiii)it«?d by thr nulls, and tlie cormorants dwell on th« other. IfcitluT of thest; trespusws on tlio otiier's tcrri ory (which occurs every fifteen uiinutes, at least), a buttle ensues, the shriil cries of hundreds tr thousands of birdi4 rend the iiir, (?n*at clouds of conibatauts hover over the plateau, and peace i8 only restored by the retreat of the invader. When the coiitlict is iK-tween largo tloi'ks, it is a woene wortliy of close notice, and f=ometiuies becomes hii^hly exciting. The Hock is at ri^ht angles with Mt. Joli, uud is of new red sandstone. The top ia covered with fine grass. Many years ago the Rock was n.seeiuled by two fishermen, and the way once being found, scores of men clambered up by ropes and carri«d away the eggs and young birds, finding the older ones so tame that they had to Ite liftcil off the nests. This vast avi.iry would have been depopul.-ited long ere this, but that the I'erce niagis- trates pii.ssed a law forbidding the ascent of the Kock. There ari' luunerou.s quaint and weird legends attached to this place, the strangest of which is that of Lf (iinie de V lie Ptrrif, a|>hantom olh'U seen over the plateau. " It is likely that the founda- tion for this legend can be traced to the vapory or cloud-like appearance the vast flocks of water-fowl assume when se«-n at a distance, wheeling in every fantastic shape through the uir, previous to alighting on the sun>niit." Tlie harbor of Perc(* is very insecure, and is open to the N. E. winds. In earlier times this port was called Ln Terre (Its Teinprtes, so frequent and disastrous w(Te the storms. The village has about 400 inhabitants, most of whom follow the shore-fisheries in small boats. The town is visited every spring and sutnmer by hundreds of stalwart Jersey lads, sent out by the ho Boutillier Brothers. l*erc*^ consists of Sotith Beach, where are the white-and-red buildings of the Robin establislnnent; aiul North Beach, where is the bulk cf the popu- lation, with the court-house, jail, aiul Catholic church. The two sections are separated by Moimt .loli, a lofty promontory which here approaches Pcrc6 Hock. The Kpiscopal church is a cosey little Gothic .structure, accommodating 100 persons. I'crc^ is *' the Klysium of fishermen," and hence arises a circumstance which detracts IVom its value as a summer resort, — when the shore is covereil with the refuse parts of codfish, pro- ducing a powerful and unpleasant odor. It is said that even the potatoes are found to contain fish-bones. Back of I'erce is the renuirkable * Mount St. Anne, with its bold and massive square top rising 1,230 ft. above the sea, and visible for a distance of 70 M. over the water. This eminence may be ascended without great trouble, and from its summit is obtained one of the noblest views in the Maritime Provinces. It includes many leagues of the savage mountain- land of Gasp^, extending also along the coast from the Bay of Chaleur to Gasp^ Bay and Ship Head. But the marine view is the most attractive PERCfi. RouU 66. 243 and and embraces many leagues of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, with its great fish- ing-fleets and squadrons of small boats*. It overlooks Bonaventure ami Perc^ Rock. A fine view is also obtained from the hij^liway near French Town, including a vast area of the Gulf, the bird^'olonies on top of the Rock, Point St. Peter, and Barry Head, with its conspicuous Catholic church. The walk around the mountain to the corner of the beach is full of interest; and the road throuijh the hills to Gaspt^ is picture>* with our north«>rn mountains; but it is wrinkled, menacing, full of a fierce grandeur ; it might be said tlmt the hmg buttle with the ocean has revealed to it its strength and tlic power which it holds from (Jod to n^strain the wares from passing their appointed t>ounds. It is an arciier of the Middle Ages, coyered with iron, immovable in his armor, and who receives, invulnerable, all the blows of the enemy. In fa<'e of the Atlantic, whlcij has Waten it witli tempests through thoaxands of centuries, trembling under the et4>rnal shower of the waves, but immovable as a dwrt-e of heaven, gloomy, thougiitfui, enduring without mur- mur the wrathful torrents that inund.-tte it, i)ent downward like a fallen god who expiates in an eternity the arrogtint pricle of a cingle day, Pcrct^ fills us at once with a sorrowful admiration and a sublime pity.'' (Autmur Dunes.) Perctf was visited by Carticr in \r)i^, and thereafter b<'came a celebrated flshfiig- Btation for the Freiu-h ticcts. The coast from ('an.so to Cape Rosier was granted Boon after, and on its reversion to the Crown this site was bestowed on De Fronsac, who founded a t»ermanent villagt^ here, while over TiOO transient fishermen made it a summer rendezvous. Uishop ijaval sent the Knmciscans here in lt)73 to look after the spiritual welfare of the people, and they ere<'ted a ch.i|K'l at Perce and the Church of 8t (Uaire on Bonaventure Island. In l*?l*!i the place was taken, with all its ves.sels, by two Hriti^h I'rigites. whose cn-ws sacked and burnt all the houses at l'erc6 and Bonaventure, de>troyed the churches, and tired 150 gunshots through^ the picture of St. Peter. In ITU another naval atti* k was made by the British, and the French ships Hims and Vermamlois were captured in the harbor. In Xl'S a desperate naval combat took pliu'e olT Perce Ko<'k, between the American prl-i vateers that had devastated the shores of the Bay of Chaleur and the British WW* vessels WoZ/'and Diligence, Two of the American veseeU wer« sunk within caosoir shot of the Rock. I> \ ^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT.3) // ^/ ^ .^t^ 7 '^ .sr^^ 4^ ^^ ^'/^% ^£s fe fe <^ & -% 1.0 I.I l^|2£ 12.5 IL25 mi 1.4 1.6 V] VA / '/ Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STRUT WnSTM.N.Y. MSM (716) 873-4503 V iV <^ %^ <^ ^>,-^q\ co, who ascended the St. Lawrence for 200 leagues, or else by Stefano Gomez, who was sailing from Spain to Cuba in 1525, but was blown far from his cour8*\ and entired the Gulf of 8t. Lawrence. There is an old Castiiian tradition that the gold-M-eking- Spaniards, finding no precious metals here, said, " Ara nnoa " (" Tiiere is notliing here" I. This oft-repeated plirase became fixed in tlie memory of the Indians, tiiough it was not comprehenJcil ; and when Cartier came, they supposed him to be of the same people as the previou-t European visitors, and endeavored to excite his interest by repeating the words, " .\ca n&da, Aca nada." He thought that tliey were giving him tiie name of their nation or country, and so, according to this puerile tradition, arose the name of Canada. Another theory of the derivation of the name was given by the early New-Englanders : " New J'itigland is by some af- firmed to be an island, bounded on the north with the River Canada (so called from Monsieur Cane)." {J OiSE\.Y}i' ^ JVpw England's Rarities Discovered, 1612.) "From this lake northwards is derived the famous Kiver of Canada so named of Monsieur de Cane, a French Lord, who first planted a colony of French in America." (Mor- ton's New Enalisli Canaan, 1*332 ) The generally received account of the origin of the name (Canada is that it is an Indian compound word. Caugh-na-waugh-a means " the village of the rapid," its first syllable being similar to that of the Indian word Caugh-na-daugh, " village of huts" (also of Caug/i-iju-ga, or Cayuga, and Cntigk-na-daugk-ga^ now 'Janan- daigua), which has been euphonized into " Canada." Wlien Brant, the Mohawk chieftain, translated the Gospel of St. Matthew into his own language, he always put Canada for " a village." In April, 1534 (being then in his fortieth year), the bold and sagacious Jaques Cartier set sail from ancient St. Malo (" thrust out like a buttress into the sea, strange and grim of aspect, breatiiiiig war from its walls and battlements of ragged stone, — a strong.io:d of privateers, the home of a race whose iutractjible and de- fiant independence n ither time nor change has subdued"). He was under the patronage of Philippe de Brion-Chabot. Admiral of Fran* 3, and wjis sent forth to reconnoitre a new route to Cathay, for the great advantage of European conunerce. It was also thought that in the new realms beyond the sea the Catholic Church mig'.it make such conquests as would requite her for the gitsat schisms of Luther !;nd Calvin and the Anglican Church. The result has nearly justified the hope. The intrepid voyager traversed the Strait of Belle L^le, and stretched across to the Baiedes Chaleurs, whicli was entered on the 9th of July, and received its name from the intense heats which the mariners encountered there. He then laiiectatiou they set sail from France in the month of .\|»ril, lt>27." This stately fi«!et was over- taken by a storm in the Gulf, and took refuge in Gispe Bay, where they were boldly attacked by Captain Kirke's English siiuadron of 3 vessels. Kirke summoned the immensely superior French Heet to surrender, but Do Roquemont, though unprepared for battle, and hampered with freight and non-combatants, sent back a spirited refusal. The Kirkes then sailed boldly into the hostile fleet, and after raking the Admiral's :1! ^iti !. it 246 Route 07. THE LOWER ST. LAWRENCE. ship, carried it by boarding. The French resisted but feebly, and the whole squad- ron fell into the bold Briton's hands. He burnt 10 vessels, and freighted the others with the grmid train of artillery and the other stores, with which he returned to England' Ciiam plain was icft in despair, at Quebec ; and the Kirkes were burnt in efligy in tiie I'lace de (Irtvc, at Paris. Gasp6 waaval and the Jesuit'^. Hence he saiied to France, and soon met a soldier's death in the Croatian fortress ot Zrin, which he wajs defending against the Turks. In the year 1760 Coniniodore Byron's powerful flee* entered Gaspt Basin and captured the village. The French frigate Lti Catliamin was in the harbor, but was soon taken and deatrojed by fire Many \ears ago the Gaspesian peninsula was erected into a province, and the seat of government was located at this town. But the number of inhabitants was not enough to warrant the expense of a vice-regal court, and the peninsula was reannexed to Quebec. Ill leaving Gaspe Hiisin the steamship passes the beaches of the N. shore, lined with whale-huts and fish-stages, and then runs to the S. K. down Gasp^ Bay. *Cape Gasp6 is 7^ M. N. of Point St. Peter, and fronts the Gulf with a line of sandstone cliffs 692 ft. high. Ofl" the S E. point there was formerly a statue-like rock 100 ft. high, called La Vieille (the Old Woman), but it has been thrown down by the sea. The Indians named this rock Gasepion, whence the name Gaspe, which is now applied to the great peninsula between the Bay o^ Chaleur and the St. Lawrence River. Two leagues beyond Cape Gaspe the steamship passes Cape Rosier, and enters the St. Lawrence River. 67. The Lower St. Lawrence. *• The most interesting object in Canada to roe was the River St. Lawrence, known far and wide, and for centuries, as the Great River. Cartier, its di>coverer, sailed up it as far as Montreal in li)35, nearly a century before the coming of the Pil- grims ; and I liave seen a pretty accurate map of it so far, containing the city of • Hoclielaga' and the river ' Saguenay,' in Oitelius's T/ieatriini Vrbis Termrum, printed at Antwerp in 1576. in whidi the f imous cities of ' Norumbega ' and ' Or- sinora' stand on the rough-blocked continent where New England is to-day, and the fabulous but unfortunate Isle of Demons, and Frislant, and others, li»' ott and on in the unfrequented sea, some of them prowling near what is now the course of the Cunard steamers. It was famous in Fkirope before the other rivers of North America were heard of, notwithstanding that the mouth of the Mis.'issippi is said to have » een discovered first, and its i-tre.ni was reached by De Soto not long after; but the St. Lawrence liad attracted settlers to its i old shores long before the Missis- riippi, or even the Hudson, was known to the world. The first explorers declared that the summer in that country was as warm as France, and they named one of the bays in the Gulf of St. Lasvrencc the Bay of t'haleur, or warmth ; but they said nothing about the winter being as cold as Greenland. In the MS account of Cartier's second voyage it is culled ' the greatest riv(>r, without compari.'^^on, that is known to have ever leen seen.' The savages told him that it wa« the *C/iemin du Cnuarhi'' (the highway to Canada), * which goes so far that no man hath ever been to the end, that they had heard.' The Saguenay, one of its tribu- taries, is described by Cartier in 1;'35, and still more particularly by .lean Alphonse in 1542, who adds ; ' I think that this river comes from the sea of Cathay, for in thi.s place there issues a strong current, and then' runs here a terrible tide.' The early explorers saw many whales anci other sea monsters far up the St. Lawrence. Champlain, in hi-t map, represents a whale spouting in the harbor of Quebec, 360 M. from what may b« called the mouth of the river ; and Charlevoix toolc bis reader to CAPE ROSIER. Route 67. 247 ie squad- he others turned to ;rc burnt )ois d'Av- clebrated )!-t'd from eaiied to which he Basin and ,rbor, but Dsula was iwn. But vice-regal if the N. the S. K. ;ter, and theS E. ,a Vieille ! Indians V applied -awrence ; Hosier, >ce, known rer, suiled )f the Pil- hc city of Terrnrum , and ' Or» n-day , and lie otT and couri-e of < of North i is said to ong after ; tlic Missis- s declared icd one of but they S account )mparl^on, it was tiie it no man f it.* tribu- 1 Alphouse liav, for in ide.' Tlie Lawrence. 360,360 M. 8 reader to the sum'nit of Cape Diamond to 8ce the * porpoises, white as snow,' sporting on the surface i the harbor of Quebec. In ChanipUiin'a day it was couunonly called ' the Great lliver of Oaiiadii.' More than one nation has claimed it. In Ofjilby's • Amer- ica of 1670,'' in the map Novi Bfli(i, it is called ' IX; (Iroote Uivicr van Niew Ne- dcrlandt ' It rises near atiotliur father of waters, the Mississipi)i, issuiiifj; from a remarkable sprin<;j far up in the woods, called Lake SuiKsrior, l,5tM M. in circum- ference; and several other springs there are thereabouts which IWhI it. It makes such a noise in its tumhlin;^ down at one place as is heard all round the world. Bouchetta, the Surveyor-dcneral of the Cauadas, calls it 'the most splendid river on the globe * ; says that it is 2,000 M long (more recent geographers m:ike it 4 -fjO^) M. longer ); that at the Rivien! du Sud it is 11 .M. wide ; at the I'aps of Matatie, 25 ; at the Seven Islands, 73; and at its mouth, from Cape Rosier to the Miug.in 8etMe- monts in Labrador, DtJ M. wide. It has m.ich tlie largest estuary, regarding botii length and breadth, of any river on the gloi>e. Perhaps Charlevoix descrii)es tiie St Lawrence truly as the most nuvindble river in the world. Between Montreal and Quebec it averages 2 M. wide. The tide is felt as far up as Three Rivers, 43J M., which is as far as from Boston to Washington. Tiie geographer CJuyot ob- serves that the Maranon is 3,W0 M. long, and gathers its waters from a surface of l,oOO,ritain, were they running in one.' The traveller flrey writes : ' There is not perhaps in tlie whole extent of this immense continent .lio fine an approach to it as by the river St. Lawrence. In the Southern States you have, in general, a level country for many miles inland ; here you are introduced at once into a majestic scenery, where everything is on a grand scale, — mountains, woods, lakes, rivers, precipices, waterfalN." We have not yet the data for a minute com- parison of the St. Lawrence witli the South American rivers; but it is obvious that, taking it in connection with its lakes, its estuary, and its fills, it ejusily bears off the palm from all tlie rivers on the globe." (Freely condensed fiom Tho;ie.\u*s A Yankee in Canada.) " Bien loin de ses courbis, sous I'ombre des pl.itanes, L'Arabe au bluiit-he burnous qui suit les caravanes Sur les sables errant Dccouvre moins joyeux son oasis hiimide, Que les Canadtens .sous la snison torride Leur fleuvc Sanit-Laurent. A nous ses champs d azur et ges fralches ri'traites. Lea ilots couronnis dc mournntes aigrettes, Los nioiits tuiducicux. I^es arOnies niqncnts que 1 1 luer v depose Et sou gruiid liorizon oil votre oeil se repose Coinmc 1 etoile aux ciciix. ' L. J. C. FiSET. Sur ces bords cnuhantes, notrc mere, la France, A laisse de sa ^iloire \\n imniortel sillon. Precipitant ses Ilots vers rocv'an iinnienso, Le noble Saint-Laurent redit eticor son nom. *• Salut, 6 ma belle patrio ' Salut, o hord.s di Saint-Laurent Terre que ri'tniDfrer cn\ ic, Et qu it regri'tte cu la (luittant Ueureux qui peut passer sa vie, Toiijours fidelc a tc servir : Et dans tes bins, mere clurie, Peut rendre son dernier soupir. Sabit, 6 ciel de ma pntrie ! Salttt, o noble Saint-Liiurent I Ton noin dans nioii iinu* attendrie Repaiul un p.u'fiim cni\rant. <> 'Jnnsida, flls dc In France, Qui tc cnii\rit dc ses bienfaits, 'I'oi, notre amour, notrc espcrance. Qui pourra toublicr jamais ? ' O. CkAmazir. Cape Rosier, "the Scylla of the St. Lawrence," is 6 M. beyoml Cape Gasp^, and is the S. portal of the St. Lawrence River, whose month at this point Is 96 M. wide. At the end of the cape is a stone lighthouse tower, 112 ft. liigh, with a fixed light (visible 16 M.) and a fog-horn. The hamlets of Grand Greve, Griffin's Cove, and Cape Rosier are hi this vicinity, and are inhabited by French people, who are de- <44 4" 248 Route 67. CAPE MAGDELAINE. pendent on the tiMhing-establishmcnt of William Flyman & Sons, of Gaspt'. "The coast between Cape Rosier and Cape Chatte is high and bold, free from dangers, and destitute of liarbors," and is lined with a niiijestic wall of mountains composed of shite and graywacke. Thoy are covered with forests, and aflbrd successions of noble views, sometimes of amphithe- ntrical coves, sometimes of distant vistas of blue peaks up the long gorges of the rivers. " How can it \>e that men inhabit this harsh, arid, roiijijh, almost hateful country, whiolj oxtL'uds from Cap(* Chatte t() tlw Ouspo P.asiii ? One ean Fcarcoly imagine. Yet, as you Fee, lei*© and tliere appear parrels of tilled land, liou^es scattered along the banks, and liftle churelies at various points." " Tl»o peninsula of C«asp»^, tlie land's end of Canada towards the E , from its gcr- logicul formation of sliale and limestone, presenting their upturned edges toward the sea und dipping inland, forms long ranges of beetling clitfH running down to a narrow strip of beach, and affording no resting-place even to the finhernien, except where thoy have been cut down by streams, ami pre.-ent little coves and bays open- ing back into deep glens, affording a view of great rolling wooded ridges that Htand rank after rank behind the great sea-cUff, though with many fine valleys between " 7 M. N. W. of Cape Rosier the settlement at GriJ/ln's Core is passed; and 5 M. farther on is Fox Rirer (Cloridorme), a settlement of 500 persons, with one of the Isle-of-,Tersey fishing-establishments, a large Catholic church, and a court-house. The cod and mackerel fisheries are followed in the adjacent waters, and large American fieets are ofteu seen off the port. The grand highNvay from Quebec ends here, but a rugged road runs down to Gaspe in 17 M. The inhabitants are nearly all French. 16 M farther W. is the haven called Great Pond, 24 M. beyond which is Cape Magde- laine {red-and-white revolving light, visible 15-20 M.) at the month of the River Magdelaine, the home of some of the wildest legends of this region. •* Where is the Canadian sailor, familiar with this coast, who has not heard of the plaintive Bounds and doleful cries uttered by tlie Braillard ite la Magdelaine? Where would you find a native seaman who would consent to spend a few days by himself in this locality, wherein a troubled spirit K'eks to make known the torments it endures? Is it the soul of a shipwrecked mariner asking for Christian burial for its bones, or imploring the prjvyers of the church for its repose ? Is it the voice of the murderer condemned to expiate his crimes on the very spot whicli witnessed its commission ? .... For it is well known that (jia.sp»> wreckers have not alwajs contented themselves with robbery and pillage, but have sometimes sought conceal- ment and impunity by making away with victims, — convinced that the tomb is silent and reveals not its secrets.'' The Abbe Ctu«grain attributes tliese weird sounds to the fate of a priest who refused to christen a child who afterwards was lost by dying unbaptized. The conscience-stricken priest faded away to a skeleton, and the sound of his moaning has ever since been heard off the^o dark shores. An- other legend tells that a terrible shipwreck occurred at this point, and that the only soul that rcHched the shore was a baby boy, who lay wailing on the beach through- out the stormy night. " Where La Mngdelaine runs into the Uulf, horizontal layers of lin)estone, fretted away all around their base by the action of the tides and waves, assume the mo'^t fantastic shajies, — here representing ruins of Gothic archi- tecture, there forming hollow caverns into which the surf rolling produces a moan- ing sounil, like an unquiet spirit seekir^sr repose." The stninge wailing which is heard at certain sea.sons along this shore is otherwise referred to the rush of the wind through tie pine-trees on the cape, whose trunks grate together with a harsh creaking. way. CAPE CHATTE. RouU 67. 249 of Pleureuse Point is 12 M. from Cape Magdelaine, and near the remote hamlet of Mont Louis. Lines of wild dills front the shore for the i ext 28 M., to Cape St. Anne, near which is the French Catholic village of St. Anne des Monts, which has 250 inhabitants and a consulate of Italy. The adjacent waters abound in mackerel, cod, halibut, and herring, and great quantities of salmon and trout are caught in the River St. Anne. The stately peaks of the ♦ St. Anne Mountains are seen on the S., com- mencing 12 M. S. VV. of Cape St. Anne and running in a S. W. course for 40 M., nearly parallel with the river and 20-25 M. inland. These moun- tains are the most lofty in Canada, and are visible for 80-90 M. at sea, in clear weather. The chief peak is 14 M. from Cape Chatte, and is» 3,973 ft. high. " All those who come to New France know well enough the mountainfl of Notre Dame, because the pilots and sailors beinK arrived at that part of tlie great river which is opposite to those high iiiountaius, baptize ordinarily for sport the new passengeri!, if they do not turn aside by some present the inundation of this baptism which is made to How plentifully on their heads." (Lalemant, 1G48.) Caps Chatte is 15 M. N VV. of Cape St. Anne, and sustains a white flashing light which is visible for 18 M. Cape Chatte was named in honor of the officer who sent out the expedition of 1603, under Pontgravi; and Lescarbot. His style was Eyniard de ('haste, Knight of Malta, Commander of Lormetiin, Orand Master of the Order of St. Lazarus, and Governor of Diepf»e Somewhere in this broad re:u-h of the river occurred the "hivalrous naval battle between the English war-vessel Abigail and the French whip of Emery de Caen (son of Lord de la Motte). The Ahinnil was commanded by Capt. Kirke, and was sailing against Tadousac, when slie was attiu^kcd (June, 1629) by De Caen. A running fight of several hours ensued, until a fortunate cannon-shot from the Abif^ait cut away a mast on the French vessel and compelled her to surrender. Tiie loss on each ship was considerable. The reach of the St. Lawrence next entered is about 35 M. wide, and on the N. shore is Point de Monts (see page 233). It is 33 M. from Cape Chatte to Matane, In which the steamer passes the hamlets of Dalibaire and St. Felicite. In 1688 the Sleur Rlverin established a sedentary fish- ery at Matane, devoted to the pursuit of codfish and whales. Sometimes as many as 50 whales were seen at one time from the shore. This branch of the fisheries has now greatly declined. Matane is a village of 300 in- habitants, devoted to farming and lumbering, and is visited by Canadian citizens on account of the facilities for sea-bathing on the fine sandy beach. There is also good fishing for trout and ssilmon on the Matane River. The remarkable peaks called the Citjis of Matane are to the S.W., in the great Gaspesian wilderness. In clear weather, when a few miles K. of Matane, and well out in the river, Mt. Coiumii may be seen, 40 M. distant, S. W. by W. \ W., like an island on the remote horizon. The shore is now low, rocky, and wooded, and runs S. VV. 22 M. to Petit Metin, which was populated with Scottish families by its seigneur. 4 M. from this point is the station of St. Octave, on the Intercolonial Rail- way. M^tis is a little way W., and is occupied by 260 French Catholics U* H i! t 250 Route 67. RIMOUSKI. and Scotch Presbyterians. It has a long government wharf; and the people are engaged also in the pursuit of bliick whales, which are sought by schooners equipped with harpoons, lances, etc. N. of Metis, across the river, is the great peninsula of Manicounf/an, at the mouth of the rivers Manicouagan and Outardc, abounding in cascades. The steamship comes to off Father Point, where there is a lighthouse and telegraph station (for news of the shipping), and a hamlet of 100 in- habitants. Here the outward-bound vessels discharge their pilots. Near this place are the hamlets of St Luce and St. Donat, and at St. Flavie, 16 M. N. E., the Intercolonial Railway reaches the St. Lawrence (see page 70). A few miles S. K. is Mi. Camille, which is 2,036 ft. high. Father Fo'nt{ Point e au Pere) was so named because the priest Henri Nouvel wintered there in 1663. Canada geese, ducks, and brant are killed here in great numbers during the long easterly storms. St. Germain de Rimouski {Dominion Jlotd) is 6 M. from Father Point, and is an incorporated city, an important station on the Intercolonial Railway, and the capitid of Rimouski County and of a Roman-Catholic diocese. It has 1,200- 1,500 inhabitants, with a handsome cathedral, a Catholic college, convent, episcopal palace, court-house, and other public buddings. The Canadian government has built a large and substantial wharf out to the deep channel, and a prosperous future is ex- pected for the young city. Many summer visitors come to this place, attracted by its cool air and fine scenery. Rimouski was founded in IfiSSf and in 1701 a missionary was sent here, who founded a parish which has now grown into a strong bishopric. " Uimuuski, the future metropolis of tlie Lower St. Lawronoi', a little city full of promise and fur- rowed already by the rails of the Intercolonial, will have its harbor of i-efngc where the great ocean-steamers will stop in pas.sing, anr will attract all tlie commerce of the innnense region of the Meta}M>dia, the future granary of our country." The Rimouski River is famous for its abundance of troBt. Bainaby Ifslanrl is low and wooded, and 3 M. long, sheltering the harbor of Rimouski. It wiis knmvn by its present name in 1629, when the tlcet of the Kirkes a>sembl( d here. From 1723 to 1767 it was the home of a pious French hermit, who avoided women and passed most of his time in liis oratory. Some say that he was wrecked off these shores, and vowed to Heaven to abide here if he was saved ; others, that he had been disappointed in love. In his last hours he was visited by people flrom Rimouski, who found him dying, with his faithful dog licking his chilling face. Itlc iHland was formerly called Le Pic, but v>as named St. Jean by Cartier, who entered its harbor in 1535, on the anniversary of the decapitation of St. John. It was included in the sclieme of D'Avaugour and Vauban (in the 17tli century) for the defence of Canada, and was intended to have been made an impregnable mari- time fortress, sheltering a harbor of refuge for the French navy. But this Mont St. Miihel of the New AVorld never received its ramparts and artillery. The plm'e was tiken by Wolfe's British tieet of 200 ships, June 18, 1759 ; and when the Trent af!air threatened to involve the United StJites and Great Britain in war, in 1861, British troops were landed at Bic, on the main shore, from the ocean-steamship /'^rsta, and were carried hence in sl«>ii>:hp to Kivirre du Loup. Near this point is I' Islet an Afnssacre, where, according to tradition, 200 Micmac Indians were onc( sur- prised at night by the Iroquois, while slumbering in a cavern. The vengeful e,icmy silently filled the cave's mouth with dry wood and then set it on fire, shooting' the unfortunate Micmacs iis thev leji|>ed through the flanic*. l!15 of the latter vere slain, and it is claimed that their bones strewed the islet until withiu a few yeark. TROIS PISTOLES. Rcnile 67. 251 8te.-C^oile du Bio (two boarding-houses) is a prosperous French vil- lage of 600 inhabitants, with a good Imrbor and a large and ugly church. It is 9 M. from Rimouski, and is surrounded by fine scenery. The Bay of Bic is "large enough to be majestic, small enough to l)e overlooked in one glance; a shore cut into deep notches, broken witli flats, capes, and beaches; a background of mountains hewn prodigally from the world's material, like all the landscapes of our Canada." The Intercolonial Rail- way was carried through this region at a vast expense, and sweeps around the fiank of the mountain, 200 ft. above the village, alTording beautiful views. Wonderful mirages are seen off this port, and out towards Point de Monts. The highlands immediately over Bic are nearly 1,300 ft high; and the bay receives two rivers, which descend in cascades and rapids from the neighboring gorges. As the steamship passes the lighthouse on Biquette Island, the remarkable and varied peaks of the mountains to the S. will attract the attention by their fantastic irregularity. Between Bic and Trois Pistoles, but not visible from the river, are the new French vil- lages of St. Fabien, among the mountains; St. Matthien, w th its great quarries of red stone for the Intercolonial Railway; and St. Simon, Lear a pretty highland lake. The loeky islets of Rosade are 2 M. off the shore of ' "otre Dame des Anpes, and are decorated with a larpe cross, in uicniory of a marvellous oscap«>. Some 30 jears ago the St. Lawri'nce froze for <> M. out from the parish, and many liundrcds of seals were discovered on the ice. Tlie peo[)k' pithered and went out to slay these strange visitors, but the ice suddenly broke adrift and was whirled away down the stream. There appeared no hope of escape for the 40 men on the outer floes, whirli were now J M from the shore. Their fami.ies and fricnids bade them an eternal farewell, and the village priests, standing at t!»e water's edge, p^ve them final ab.*ioIution in preparation for the approaching catastrophe. Ilur even while they were kneeling on the ice, a bold mariner launched a tiny skiff from the shore and crossed the widening belt of tumultuous waters, touched the crumbling edges of the floes, and, after many trips back and forth, succeeded in landing every one of the men upon the isle of Ilosade. Thence they passed easily to the mainlan^^ and afterwards erected a cross on Rosade, as a token of their gratitude. v. Trois Pistoles (two good hotels) is a thriving village of 650 inhab- itants, situated inside of Basque Island (5 M. from the Rosades), and near valuable deposits of limestone. There are two Catholic churches here, whose construction involved a litigious contest which is still remembered in Lower Canada. The beauty of the marine scenery in this vicinity has induced several Quebec gentlemen to build sunnner cottages here. There is a well-founded tradition that in the year 1700 a traveller rode up to the bank of the then unsettled and unnamed river and asked the Norman fishennan, who •Aras tending his nets near his rude hut, what he would charge to ferry him across. "Trois pistoles" (three ten-fr> no pieces), said the fisher. "What is the name of this river ? " asked the traTolitr " It has no name ; it will be baptized at a later day." " Well, then," said the traveller, " uame it TVois Pistoles.'''' The river is now fkmous for its fine trout-fishing. "That portion of the St. Lawrence extending between the Saguenay River and Ooose Island is about 20 M. wide. The spring tides rise and fall a distance of 18 ft. The water is salt, but clear and cold, and the channel very deep. Here may be seen abundantly the black seal, the white porpoise, and the black whale." The white porpoise yields an oil of the best quality , and its skin makes good leather. ■1 iffij m m 252 Jimte 67. KAMOURASKA. The Gnlf-Port« steamship does not stop between Father Point and Quebec, but the villnfjci* described in this itiiienirv mny be visited from Quebec; those on the S. shore by ruihvny, nnd St. Paul's Wax, Murray Rny, Riviere du Loup, niid Hiniouski by river-steamers. he N. shore from Cape Tojirmente to the Sapuot'ay is dcscrilx'd iti Houto 72. The vessel steams up by O'rcin Island, which is - 7 M. long, and shel- ters the large manufacturin*^ vill:irr<^ of Isle IVWc, whence fine butter is sent to Quebec. On the r. is 7^^/ Island, with its tall stone lifjhthouse, off which is a lightship. Cacouna and Riviere du Kou[) (see Route 72) are next passed, on the 1., and the vessel runs W. with the three steep islet.s called the Brandy Pots {Pots-a-V enu-rs (ecclesiastics) and 230 student and is main- tained in a high state of cfllciency. The parks cover sexcral acres, and the museum is well su[)plied. St. Aiuie's Agricultural School and Model- Farm is connected with the college, and has 5 jjrofcssors (zoiitechny, rural law, etc.)' Tlio view from the dome of the college is of great extent and beauty. As the steamer passes St. Amie the frowning mass of Mt. Lboulementg is seen on the N. shore. A few miles beyond St. Anno the hamlet of St. Rock-(les-Aulnnies is passed, on the 1 , and still farther to the VV. is St. Jean-Poi't-.foU, a pretty little village about which is laid the scene of Do Gaspe's popular romance, " Los Anciens Canadiens." The Isle aux Coudres is far away towards the N. shore. The course is laid in by the islet called the Stone Pillar^ on which there is a lighthouse, and 1^ M. farther VV. is the insulated rock of the Wood Pillar. The largo and pros- perous village of L'Islet( 1,000 inhabitants) is seen on the 1. Goose Island is passed on the r., and is connected with Crane Island {V Isle aux Grues) by a long alluvial meadow, which produces rich hay, the total i».Mgth being 11 M. Fine sporting is enjoyed here in the spring and autumn, when great flocks of snipe, plover, and wild geese visit thqse shores for a breeding-plrce. There is a settlement of about 150 persons on Crane Island, whence are obtained noblo views of Cape Tourmente. During the French regime these islands {Les Isles de Ste -Marguerite) were erected into a seigniory and granted to an officer of France, lie buiit a nia8.» ' Kude Nature dolTs her savage mountain dreso, ' -'^ - -r •' And all her sternness melts to loveliness. J On either hand stretch fields of richest green, With glittering village spires and groves between, And snow-white cots adorn the fertile plain." OrOBSe Isle formerly appertiiined to the Ursuliiies, and is 2^ M. long. On its graywiicke ledges is tlie great Quarantine of Canada, where emi- grant-ships are detained until thoroughly inspected and purified. The island is a vast tomb, so many have been the emigrants who have reached these shores only to die, poisoned in the filthy am^ crowded ships, poorly fed and rarely ministered imto. The Quarantine-station is occupied by medical and police forces, and is under a rigid code of rnles. The next town is Berthitr, an ancient French parish of 400 inhabitants, W. of which is Bellechasse Island, composed of high, steep, and bare gray- wacke rocks. On the N. are Reaux Island (150 ft. high) and Madame Island, both of which are covered with trees. St, Vuliev is beyond Belle- chasse, and is a place of 200 inhabitants, near which large de[)osits of bog iron-ore have been found. The Isle of Orleans (see Route 71) is now approached, on the r., and over it is seen the peak of Mt. St. Anne. Nearly opposite St. John (on the Orleans shore) is St. Michel, a lumber- working town of 700 inhabitants, in whose spacious church are some paintings for which a high value is claimed: St. Clara, by Murillo(f) ; St. Jerome, Boucher ; die Crucifixion, Jiomanelli ; the Death of the Vir- gin, Gouly ; St. Bruno, Philippe de Champayne ; the Flagellation, Chally. 6 M. beyond St. Michel is Beaumont, a village of 600 inhabitants, oppo- site Patrick's Hole, on the Orleans shore. The settlements now grow thicker on either shore, and in about 6 M. the steamship passes the W. end of the island of Orleans, and opens the grandest ** view on the route. On the r. is the majestic Montmorenci Fall, on the 1. the rugged heights of Point Levi /md St. Joseph, and in front the stately cliffs of Quebec, crowned with batteries, and flowering into spires. ; ■-^ - - ■■?» t ^> s M. long. lire emi- d. The reached , poorly pied by ibitants, re gray- MadaiTie id Belle- s of bog ) is now t. Anne. Inmber- ire some nlfo{?) ; the Vir- , Chally. ts, oppo- )\v grow IS the W. lie route. I heights Quebec, QUEBEC. ^^i^j^M . Catholic Cathedral . • Anglican „ . Wesley an Church . . Presbyterian Church . St, JohniCath.) „ . . . St. Matthew • St. Sauveur „ . . . St. Roch . Notre Dame des Victoires . Archbishop's Palace . Seminary . Laval University . . . Hotel Dieu Convent . . Ursuline „ . . Gray Sisters „ . . Congregational „ . General Hospital . . . Marine „ . . , Morrin College .... Kent Gate Court House Crown Lands Dep. . . High School , Governor's Garden . Custom House .... . Champlain Market . . Jail . Wolfe's Monument . . American Consulate . St. John's Gate . St. Louis „ Prescott „ Hope „ Palace „ E.3. E.4. E.3. E.4. C.3. D.3. A. 2. C.2. F.4. E.3. E.3. F.3. E.3. E.4. D.3. C.2. B.2 C.I. E.3. D.3. E.4. E.4. E.4. E.4. F.3. F.4. B.6. B.5. F.3. D.3. D 4. F.4. E 3. E.3. 35. St. Louis Hotel . . . E.4. 36. Stadxco'ia ,, . . £.3. 37 Parlian-^ it Building 0.4. 38. Post Office E.3. tY: I'^l QUEBEC. E.3. E.4. E.3. E.4. C.3. D.3. A. 2. C.2. F.4. Catholic Cathedral . Anglican „ Wesleyan Chu i,ft . . Presbyterian Church St. John (Cath.) „ . . St. Matthew St. Sauveur „ . . St Roch Notre Dame ties Victoires Archbishop's Palace E.3. Seminary E.3. Laval University . . F.3. Hotel Dieu Convent . E. 3. Ursuline „ . E. 4. Cray Sisters „ . D. 3. Congregational „ . C. 2. General Hospital . . B.2. Marine „ . , C. 1. Morrin College . . . . E.3. Kent Gate D.3. Court House E.4. Crown Lands Dep. . £. 4. High School E.4. Governor's Garden . E. 4. Custom House . . , . F.3. Champlain Market . F. 4. Jail B.6. Wolfe's Monument . B.6. American Consulate F.3. St. John's Gate St. Louis „ Prescott „ Hope „ Palace ,, . . D.3. . D 4. E.F.4. . E.3. . E.3. 33. St. Louis Hotel . . . E.4. 36. Stadacona „ . . . E.3. 37 Parliament Building D.4. 38. Post Office E.3. QUEBEC. Route 68. 255 68. Quebec. Arrival. — If the traveller has much baggage, it is best to take a carriage or the hotel omnibus tf) the Upper Town. The cnUrlie is not ad ipted for carrying lug- gage Hotels. — The * St.-Louis Hotel, near the Dufferin Terrace, accommodates 500 guests, at §3.50 to .'So a day. The Florence, on St. John Street, outside the walls, charges .f 2.50 to .f4 a day The Russell House is at St. Ann and (larden Streets. Ilenchey's Hotel, near the English Cathedral; the Mountain-IFIU House, on Mountain-Hill Street ; and Blanchard's Hotel, in the Lower Town, — charge from $1.60 to $2 a day. There .-ire sevt;ru.l good boarding-houses in the Upper Town, among which are those of the .Mi'^'^cs Leonard, 3 St. Louis St. ; Mrs. McOonell, 38 St. Ldiu.x St ; Mi--; Lane, G5 St. Aiine St.; Dennis Ollares, 39 St. Genevieve St. ; Mrs. Escaliere's, 20 Mt. Citrmel. Comfortable quarters may be obtained at these hou.ses for about .fiO a week. Carriages in every variety may be procured at the livery-stables, and lai-ge numbers of tiieni are kept at the st.inds near tlic St. Louis Hotel, in front of tlie Ca- thedral, and beyond St. .lolin's (J;ito. The carriages in the Lower Town are less ele- gmt and much less expensive than those within tiie walls. Tlie rate.- Vor excursions in the suburbs in suiiimor are from i^'i to !?4 for 1-3 persons (to Montmorenci FhUs, Lorette, Cap Rouge, etc.). During tiie autmnn tiie rates are reduced. The caWc/i^-drivttrs of the Lower Town usually demand .'#2 for carrying 1-2, persons to the outer suburban resorts. Tiie caldr/ie is a singular and usually very shabby- looking vehicle, perched on two higli wheels, with the driver sitting on a narrow ledge in front It is drawn by a homely but hardy little horse, and is usually driven bv a French (\aiiadian, who urges the horse forward by the sharp dissyllabic cry, " Marrhp-finnc ! "* Two-hor.nrest silver, in which might ride witli safety a hundred sail of the line, — the gr.icet'ul meandering of the river St. Charles, — the nun\erouR village spires on either side of the St Lawrence, — the fertile fields dotted with innumerable cottjiges, the aboiles of a ricli and moral peasantry, — the distant Falls of Montmorenci, — the park-like .scenery of Point Ijevi, — the beauteous Isle of Orleans, — and more distant still , the frowning Cape Tourniente, and the lofty QUEBEC. Route G8. range of purple mountains of the most picturesque forms which bound the prospect,N unite to form a coup tVceil, which, without exaggeration, is scarcely to be surpassed in any p;irt of the world.' (Hawkins.) " I rubbed my eyes to be sure that 1 was in the ninetcentli century, and was not entering one of those portals whlclj sometimes adorn the frontispiece of old black- letter volumes. I tliought it would be a good place to read Froissart's Chronicles. It was such a reminiscence of the Middle Ages jis Scott's novels. " Too much has not Ix-en sjiid about the scenery of Quebec. The fortifications of Cape Diamond are omnipresent. You travel 10, 20, >¥) M up or down the river's banks, you ramble 15 M among tlie hills on either side, and tiien, when you liave long since forgotten them, perchance slept on them by the way, at a turn of the ro.id or of your body, there they are still, with their geometry against the sky No wonder if .Jaqucs Cartier's pilot exclaimed in Norman-French, i^ue bed ( ' What a peak ! ') when he saw this cape, as some suppwe. Every modern traveller invol- untarily u.ses a similar expression The view from Ca[)e Diamond has been compared by European travellers with the most remarkable views of a similar kind in Europe, such as from I'klinburgh Castle, Gibntltir Cintr.i, and others, and pre- ferred by many. A main peculiarity in this, compareil with other views which I have beheld, is that it is from the ramparts of a fortified tity, and not from a soli- tary and majestic river cape alone that tliis view is obtained I still remembei the harbor far beneath me, sparkling like silver in the sun, — the answering liead- lands of Point Levi on the S. E , — the frowning (Japi^Tourniente abruptly bounding the seaward view far in the N E. , — the villages of Lorette and Charlesbourg on the N., — and farther \W. the distant Val Cartier, sp.irkHng with white cottiiges, hardly removed by distance througli the clear air, — not to mention a few bine mountains along the horizon in that direction. Yon look out from the ramparts of the citadel beyond the frontiers of civilization. Yonder small group of hills, according to the guide-book, forms ' the port il of the wilds which are trodden only by the feet of the Indian hunters as far as Hudson's IJay.' " (Thoreau ) " There is no city in America more famous in the annals of history than Quebec, and few on the continent of Europe more picturesciuely situated. Whilst the sur- rounding scenery reminds one of the unrivalled views of the Bosphorus, the airy site of the citadel and town calls to mind Innspruck and Edinburgh Quebec may be best de.scribed by supposing that an ancii^nt Norman fortress of two centuries jigo had been encased in amber, transported by magic to Canada, and placed on the summit of Cape Diamond." " Quebec, at least for an American city, is certainly a very peculiar place. A mili- tary town, conbiining about '.iOiOiW inhabitants ; most compactly and permanently built, — stone its sole material ; environed, as to its most important parts, by walls and gates, and defended by numerous heavy cannon ; . . . . founded upon a rock, and in its highest parts overlooking a great extent of country ; 3 40O miles from the ocean, in the midst of a great continent, and yet displaying Heets of foreign mer- chantmen in its tine, capacious bay, and showing all the bustle of a crowded sea- port; its streets narrow, populous, and winding up and down almost mountainous declivities ; situated in the latitude of the finest parts of Euroi^e, exhibiting in its environs the beauty of a European capital, and yet in winter .smarting with the cold of Siberia ; governed by a people of different language and habits from the mass of the population, opposed in religion, and yet leaving that population without taxes, and in the enjoyment of every privile^.,^, civil and religious ; such are the prominent features which strike a stnuiger in the ( ity of Quebec. A .seat of ancient Dondnion, — now hoary with the lapse of more than two centuries, formerly the seat of a French empire in the west, — lost and won by the blood of gallant armies, and of illustrious commanders, — throned on a rock, and defended by all the proud defiance of war! Who could approach such a city without emotion! Who in Canada has not longed to cast his eyes on the water-girt rocks and towers of Quebec." (Prop. SauMvN; in 1820.) " Few cities offer so many striking contrasts as Quebec. A fortress and a com- mercial city together, built upon the sinnn)it of a rrxk like the nest of an ea|(le, while her vessels are everywhere wrinkling the face of tlie ocean ; an American city inhabited by French colonists, governed by England, and garrisoned by Scotch regiments ; a city of the .Middle Ages by most of its ancient institutions, while it is subject to all the combinations of modern constitutional government ; a European city by its civilization and its habits of refinement, and still close by the remnants of the Indian tribes and the barren mts. of the North ; a city with about the same ^ y y' 258 Routt 08. QUEBEC. latitude aa Paris, while ducctasively combining the torrid climate of Bouthem regionn with the t-everities of un hyperborean winter; a city at the same time Catholic and Protestant, wht-rc tlie lal ; citadel, we ar? onct more in the Eurojx'an Middle Ages. Gates and posterns, cranky st« ps that Ici; 1 up to lofty, gabled houses, with sharp French roofs of burnished tin, like those of L.iege ; prwessions of the Host: altars dec kid with tiowers ; statues of tiie Virgin ; sabots ; blouses ; and th(( scarlet of the lJriti>h lines- man, — all tlieso are seen in narrow streets and markets that are graced with many a Cotentin lace cap, and all within 40 miles of the down-cast, Yankee !*tate of Maine. It is not far from New England to Old France There has been no d\ ing out of the race among ihe French Canadians. They number twenty times the thousands that they did 1(10 years ag(.. The American soil has left their physical tyjK>, re- ligion, language, and UiwA absolutely untouch"d. They herd together in their rambling villages, dance tr he fiddle r%'r mass on Sundays, — as gayly as on( e did their Norman sins, — and p un the fnn-de-lys and the memory of Montcalm. More French tlian the FreiUii aiv the Lower Canada habitaiis. The pulse-beat of the continent finds no cciio here." (Siii Charles Dilke.) '•Curious old Quebec I of all the cities of the continent of America the most quaint! It is a j)eak thickly poiiulated I a gigantic rock, escarped, echeloned, and at the siime time suioothed oiY to hold firmly on its summit the houses and castles, although a(( (tnling to the ordinary laws of natter they ought to fall olf like a bur- den placed on a camel's ba< k without a fastening. Yet the (houses and castles hold there as if they were nailed down. At the foot of the rock some feet of land have been reclaimed from the river, and that is for the streets of the Lower Town. Que- bec is a dried shred of the Middle Ages, hung high up near the North Pole, far from the beaten paths of the Eurov)ean tourists, .... a curiosity without parallel on this side of the ocean. We traveled each street as we would have turned the leaves of a book of engravings, containinir » pew painting on each page The local- ity ought to be scrupulously preserved antique. Let modern progress be carried elsewhere! When Quebec lias taken the pains to go and perch hcr.self away up neai Hudson's liay, it would be cruel and unfitting to dare to harass her with new ideas, and to speak of doing away with the narrow and tortuous streets that charm all tmvellers, in order to seek conformity with the fantastic ideas of comfort in vogue in the liith century." (Henry Ward Beecher.) " On I'a dit, Quebec est un proniontoire, c'est avant tout une forteresse remarqua- ble. La citadelle s'eleve au-dessus de la ville et mire dans les eaux du lleuve ses cr«^neaux brants. Le voyageur s"etoune, apres avoir admiri' les bords vcrdoyants et tieuris du Saint-Laurent, les forets aux puissantes ramures pleines de raysteres et d'ombre, les riantes vallees pleines de bruits et de rayons, de rencontrer tout ik coup cette vilie qui senible venir d'Europe et qui serait moins etrange sur les bords du Rhin aux dramatiques Icgendes. Mais Qu. bee n'est pas une ville ou W tranger vienne Be distraire et chercher d'oubli un the&tre .V grands luxes, a grands spectacles .... O'est peut-etre la seule ville du monde ou les gens aient droit de se plaindre et ou ils ne se plaignent pas. .Fai icrit que Qut bee est une forteresse reniarquable ; elle ( leve son front superbe et se cambre avec fiettr dans sa robe de pierre. Elle a conserv • un air des temps chevaleresqnes, elle a soutenu des si ges, elle a re<;u son bapteme du feu. En longeant ces vieux murs, en admirant cette forteresse i levie comme un nid d'aigie sur un roc sourciileux, on se croirait dans une ville du moyen &ge, au temps des factions et des guerres civiles, une de ces villes accoutumces aux bruits des amies, aux fanfares et aux liymnes guerriers, mais tout est silencieux dans la nuit sereine, et vous n'entendez meme pas le pace c 'dencc d'une sentinelle. Dans cette ville et aux aleutours, que d'l v> nenients ont etc accompli ! Quelle lutte pleine de poisie h( roique ! Que de vicissitudes ! et quel courage ! En quelque lieu que vous alliez, a la basse-ville, sur le chemin Saint-Louis ou Sainte-Foye, sur les rives de la riviere Saint-Charles, tout respire un parfum historique, tout parle a vos yeux, tout a une voix qui exprime quelque chose de grand et de triste, et les pierree meuics scut autour de vous comme lea fautomes qui reticchissent le passe." re- Que- QUEBEC. Route 68. 259 The Duffeiin Terrace is on the river ward edge of the Upper Town, and begins on the buttresses and platform formerly occupied by the Chateau of St. Louis, which was built by Chaniplain in 1G20, and extends for a quarter of a mile to the base of the citadel, making it the longest prome- nade of the sort in the world. It was opened on June 10, i879, by the Marquis of Lome and the Princess Louise, in the presence of 10,000 people. The old Chateau was a massive stone structure, 200 ft. long, used for a fortress, prison, and governor's palace, and it stood until 18'Jl, when it was ruined b}' fire. The terrace is 182 ft. above the river, and commands a * view of surpassing beauty. Lnmediately below are the sinuous streets of the Lower Town, with its wharves projecting into the stream. On one side are the lofty fortified bluffs of Point Levi, and on the other the St. Charles River winds away down its peaceful valley. The white houses of Beauport stretch off to the vicinity of the Montmorenci Falls, while be- yond are seen the farms of L'Ange Gardien, extending towards the heights of St. Fereol. Vessels of all classes and sizes are anchored in the broad basin and the river, and the rich and verdant Isle of Orleans is in mid-stream below. Beyond, and over all, are the bold peaks of the Lau- rentian range, with Cape Tourmente towering over the river. The Terrace is the favorite promenade of the citizens, and presents an attractive scene in the late afternoon or on pleasant Sundays. " There is not in the world a nobler outlook tlian that from the Tcrnice at Que- bec. You stand upon a rock overhanging city and river, and look down upon the guard-ships' masts. AcrtJ upon acre of timbur comes Hoating do.vn th-; stream above the city, the Canadian boat-sont;s just reaching you upon tlio heights; and beneath you are fleets of great ships, English, German, French, and Dutch, embark- ing the timber from the Hoating docks. The Stars and Stripes are nowhere to be seen." (Sir Ciiarl'.:s Dilke.) " On a summer evening, when the Terrace is covered with loungers, and when Point Levi is sprinkled with lights and the Losver Town has illuminated its narrow streets and its long dormer-windo.vs, while the lively murmur of business is ascend- ing and the eye cau discern the great shadows of the ships beating into port, tiie scene is one of marvellous animation. It is then, above nil, that one is struck with the resemblance between Quebec and the European cities ; it might be called a city of France or Italy transplanted ; the physiognomy is the same, and daylight is needed to mark the alteration of features produced by the passage to America." "At a later era, when, under the protection of the French kings, the Provinces had acfiuired the rudiments of military strength and power, the Castle of St Louis was remarkable as having been the site whence the French governors exercised an immense sovereignty, extending from the Gulf of St. Lawrence, along the shores of that noble river, its magnificent lakes, and down the coui*se of the Mississippi to its outlet below New Orleans. The banner which first streamed from the battlements of Quebec was displayed from a chain of forts which protected the settlements throughout this vast extent of country, keeping the English (colonies in constant alarm, and securing the fidelity of the Indian nations. During this period the coun- cil chamber of the castle was the scene of many a mi Inight vigil , many a long delib- eration and deep-lai(! nr"ject, to free the continent from the intrusion "*" the ancient rival of France, and a; ort throughout the supremacy of the Gallic lily At another period, subsequent to the surrender of QueVj«'c to the British arms, and until the recognition of the independence of the United States, the extent of empire of which the Castle of Quebec was the principal seat compreheuded the whole American COQ- tlnent north of Mexico." (Hawkins.) I :;: h\ 260 Ry Gen. Murray, who quartered his troops here, and in 1809 tlie property reverted to the crown, on the death of the last of the Jesuit Fathers. The buildings were used as barracks until the British armies evacuated Canada " From this seat of piety and learning issued those dauntless missionaries, who made the Gospel known over a space of 600 leagues, and pre:iched the Christian faith from the St. I^w. rence to the Mississippi. In this pious work many suffered death in the most cruel form; all underwent danger and privation for a serie.-i of >ears, with a con- stancy and patience that must always command the wonder of the historian and the admiration of posterity." The * Basilica of Quebec is on the E. side of the Market Square, and was known as the Cathedral of Notre Dame until 1874, when it was elevated by Pope Pius IX. to the rank of a basilica. It was founded in 1666 by Bishop Laval, and was destroyed by the bombardment from Wolfe's batteries in 1759. The present building dates from the era of the Conquest, and its exterior is quaint, irregular, and homely. From its towers the Angelus bells sound at 6 o'clock in the morning and 6 in the evening. The interior is heavy, but not unpleasing, and accommodates 4,000 persons. The High Altar is well adorned, and there are several chapels in the aisles. The most notable pictures in the Basilica are, **the Crucifixion, by Fan Dyck (" the Christ of tlie Cathedral"; the finest paint- ing in Canada), on the first pillar 1. of the altar; the Ecstasy of St. Paul, Carlo Maratti ; the Annunciation, Restout ; the Baptism of Christ, Halli ; the Pentecost, Vignon ; Miracles of St. Anne, Plamondon ; Angels waiting If 2G2 Route 68, QUEBEC. on Christ, Restout (in tlio choir); tho Nativity, copy from Annibale Ca- racct ; Holy Fiiinily, /ildnclinnl. Tho Hnsilini (MTiipicH tJn' sito of the niirifnt cliurcli of Notre Djumo 'i ' "> •• de Monfes|)an Most of the valuable paintinjjs in the Ilasilioa, and elsewhere in CaiuKhi, were bouu;ht in France at the epoch of the devolution of 1793, when the churches and convents had lu'cn pillaged of their treasures of art. Many of thcui were purchased from their captora, and scut to the secure shores of New France. Ijiiik oi' ilie Ilasilica, on Port Dauphin St., is the extensive |i;ilaie of the Areiibisjjop, surrounded by (piiet gardens. To tl>c K. is the Cirand IJ.iticry ; and also the site of the old Parliament House. The * Seminary of Quebec adjoins the Cathedral on the N., and covers several acres with its piles of (piaitit and ramblin<:; l>nildinp:s and qniet and sequestered gardens. It is divided into Le Gvttnd Scininnire and Le Pftit Semmnirc, tho former l)ein<]; devoted to Homan-('atholic theoloj^y and the edncation of ])riests. The Minor Seminary is for the stndy of litera- ture and science (lor boys), and the course extends over nine years. Boarders pay $150 a year, exclusive of washing, music, and draw- ing. The students may be recognized in the streets by their peculiar uniform. The quadrargle, with its old and irregular buildings; the .spot- less neatness of the grounds; the massive walls and picturesquely outlined groupings, will claim the interest of the visitor. *' No such buildinpc could be Fcen anywhere save in Quebec, or in sonic ancient provincial town in Normandy. You ask for one of the gentlemen (priest.'^), and you are introduced to his modest apartment, where uiu find him in his soutane, with all the polisli, learning, and bonkonwiie of the nineteenth century." Visitors are con- ducted over the building in a courteous manner. 1 lie ancient Seminary Chapel, with its precious .paintings by Philippe de Champagne, Vanloo, and otiier ni asters, was Imnied in 1888. The Seminary of Quebec was founded in 16(53 by M de Laval, who endowed it with all his great wealtli. The first buildings were eix'cted in l(j(i(i, and the prcent Semi- nary i.s compo.^ed of edifices constructed at difTerent dates since that time. In 1866 a large part of the quadrangle was burnt, but it has since been restored. In 1704 there were 04 teachers and students ; in 1810 there were 110 ; and there are now over 401) (exclusive of tlie University students). " When we awake its departed shades, they rise upon us from their gmves, in strange romantic guise. Men steeped in antique learning, pale with the close breath of the cloister, here spent the noon and evening of their lives, ruled savage hordes with a mild paternal sway, and .«^tood serene before the direst shapes of\Jeath. Men of courtly natures, heirs to the polish of a far-reaching ancestry, here with their dauntless hardihood put to shame the boldest sons of toil."' The new Seminary Chapel has several interesting and valuable old paiutiog^ including au Ascension, by I'hiiippe de Champagne. QUEBEC. Route as. 2G3 The * Laval University \^ hetwccu tho Scminiin'^nnlcns mid tlio nim- ])nrts, Mild iiiiiy l)o reaclicd from St. Fainillci St Tlu' iiiniii Imildinj; is 2H0 f>. loiijjtind 5 stories lii,()0(). The roofisa fliit siinded plattonn, securely enniiicd, uIk re the students proitietmih! and enjoy th(^ ^i and * view of tliC! city, the river, and th(! Laurentian Mts. Vis- itors Hre achnitted to the coUections of the I'liiversity on application to tho janitor. The reception-rooms contain the crreat picture! oCthe Madonna of QiKihec, a portrait of I'ius IX.,l»y /'*/.sv/«aA'««, andother i)aintin<iiH'. tli()iigli not yot, %Vlu>n 1 will l)iti> Itini who now biU-s me.") yfountn'ni-IIW St. dosconris by tlic ])h\co of tlio Pn>srott Gnto, to the Lower 'I'own, wiiidiupdown flic slope of the < lilV. On tlie r., about ^ of the wny down, are the ♦ Champlain Steps, or Cote hi Mont.Mjnie, a steep, crowded, and pictures(jue stairway leat ii' tli s cliiipcl tlurin^ tln' homliMrilmcnt (if I7.')U in l»Mri<'i| *Mli<' llij^li iiiid Mi;ility Lord, l.ouis .loscpli, Miinnii-* of Montcalm," iiiid over his nMiiuins is the inscription, " Ilonncnr ii Mont- calm! Lc most valualtle rvr- ords of the early days of Canada. The convent was foui t d in h'Ai'J, wh«'ii tlie first aldtesN landed in tinel)ee amid the salutes «if tlie castle- i.itteries ; and tlie s|it!eial worlt of the lunis was that of ediualiin; the Indian );;iris. Tlie rouvcnt wan i)nrnt down ill l()r)(), and a^aiii hi 1 iH'i, when tlie IJrsiilines were sheltered \>y the llf^pital- ieres. T1h> Archbishop ha-t re<-ently orden'd that tlie term of profeHsion sliull be for seven >'earM, inutead of for life. Morrin College occufiies a massive stone Imildinj^ nt the corner of St. Ann and Stanislas St.s., and is the only non-Kpiscopal Protestant col- lef!;e in the Province. It was foiunled hy Dr. Morrin, and has 6 profe'ssors, hut has had hut little success as an educational institution. Tho huild- lug was enacted hy tho (Jovernment in IHIO, for a prison; and occupied the site of an ancient fort of Champlain's era. It was used as a prison until the new (laol was hnilt. on the Plains of AlM-ahnm, and in the N. Yfinff are the "snmhre corridors that not lon^ a^o resounded with the steps of the jaders, and the narrow cells that are never eidivened hv a ray of lijcht." Tho ♦ Lihrary of the Quebec Literary and Historical Society is In tho N. winja: of Morrin College, and contains a rare collection of hooks re- latlng to Canadian history and science, in the French and iMiglish lan- guages. This society is renowned for its valuahlo researches in thoannal.s of the old St. Lawrence Provinces, and has published numerous volumes of records and transactions. It mcludes in its niembership the leadnig liter- ati of Eastern Canada. There is a small but interesting mnseum connected with the librarv-liall. There is also a well e,jui;.ped reading-room. St. Andrew's Church, with its school and manse, occupy tlie triangle at the intersection of St. Ann and Stanislas Sts. It is a low, quaint build- ing, erected in 1809 on ground granted by Sir James Craig. Previously, from the time of the Conquest of Canada, the Scottish Presbyterians hai))e/li ad inoriftifimii proC/iiisto " ; and his wish wius gratified whin his mission-town of !idc him- 8olf; then, rallying, with hands uplifted, he oHered his sulVerings .to Heaven as a sacrifice." The bones of Lalemant are preserved at the IL^tel Dieu. Around the Ramparts. * The Citadel is an innnense and powerful fortification, covering 40 acres of grouiul, and is situiited on the summit of Cape Diamond (so called from the glittering crystals found in the vicinity), which is said to be "the coldest place in the British Empire " Since the evacuation of Canada by the Imperial troops, the Citadel has been garrisoned by Canadian militia- nieu, uiid '. isitors are usually permitted to pass around the walls under the escort of a soldier. The **view from the most northerly bastion (which contains an innnense Armstrong gun) surpasses that from the Dufferiu Terrace, and is one of the must niagniticcnt in the world. Tlie St. QUEBEC. Route 6iS. 267 St. Charles is seen winding through a beautiful undulating plain, and the spires of Beauport, Cliarlesbourg, and Lorettc, with the white cottages around them, form pleasing features in the landscjipc. On the S. of the parade are the officers' quarters and the bonih-proof hospital, while bar- racks and magazines are seen in advance. The armory contains a great number of military curiosities, but is not always accessible to visitors. The Citadel is separated from the town by a broad glacis, which is broken by three ravelins; and the wall on that side contains a line of casemated barracks. The entrance to the Citadel is by wiiy of a winding road which leads in from St. Louis St. through the slope of the glacis, and enters first the outer ditch of the ravelin, beyond the strong Chain Gate. Thence it passes, always under the mouths of cannon, into the main ditch, which is faced with masonry, and at this point opens into a rarrow parade, over- looked by the retirinj, angles of the bastion. The curious iron-work of the Chain Gate being passed, the visitor finds himself in an open triangular parade, under the loopholes of the Dalhousie Bastion. ig 40 called "the a by ilitia- nider istion the The •* Such structures carry us back to the Mid Jit Ages, the siege of .Terusalem, and St. Jean d'Acre, and the days of the Biiccnuiers. In tiie armory of tiie Citadel they showed nie a cluuisy implement, lotig since useless, whidi they called a Lomi)ard gun. I thought that their whole Citadel was sdch a Lombani gun, fit object for the museums of the carious Silliman states that ' the cold is so intense in the winter nights, particularly on Cape Diamond, that the sentinels cannot stanc'. it more tiian one hour, and are relieved at the expiration of that time; and even, as it is said, at nujch shorter intervals, in case of the ino~;t extreme cold.' I shall never again wake up in a colder night than usual, Jmt I shall think liow rapidly the pentinels are relieving one another on the walls of (iiiclxc, their (juicksilver j)cing all frozen, as if apprehensive that some liostilc Wolte may even then be scaling tho Heights of Abraham, or some pers»!vering Arnold about to issue from the wilderness ; some Malay or Japanese, perchance, coming round by the N. W. coast, have chosen that moment to assault the (Mtadel. Why I should as soon expect to see the setiti- nels still relieving one another on the walls of Niiu'veh, which have so long l)e<>n buried to the world. What a troiiblesonie thing a wall is I I thought it was to de- feud me, and not 1 it. Of course, if they liad no walls they would not need to liave any sentinels." (Tuoreau.) The Citadel was formerly connected with the Artillery Barnicks, at the farther end of tlie city, by a bomb-proof covered way 1,!^;}7 yards long. These fortifications are 345 feet above the river, and considerai)iv higher than the TpiK-r Town. The rock on which tliey are founded is of dark slate, in whicli arc limi»id (luartz-crystals. The picturesque walls of Quebec are of no defensive value since the nunlcrn im- provements in gunnery; and even tlie Citadel coul 1 not prcv.nt dangerous ap- proaches or a bombardment of the city. Skilful r.ili'ary engineers iiave therefore laid out a mon> extensive system of modern fortificifion^:, including lines of ix>sverful detached forts on the heights of I'oint Levi, anl at Siilei" Tin- former were begun in 1867, and are nearly complet«'d ; but tlie Sillery forts are not .\et C')mincn<'»'d The spirit of utilitarianism, which Inus levelled the walU fif Krankfrirt and Vienna rnd is menacing Boston Common, has hcen attacking the rampart^ of (iuehec for many years. The St. Louis and Prescott Gates were renn)veep, roughly paved stnet itself; and at the foot of the hill down which it sloped wa« a breailtli of the < itv wall, pierced for musketry, and, past the comer of one of the houses, the half-Ungtli of <'nnnon showing. It had all the charm of those ancient streets, dear to Old-World travel, in which the pait and present, decay and repair, peiu'e and war, have made friends in an effect that not only wins the eye. but, however illogically, touches the heart; and over the top of the wall it had a stretch of landscaiw as I know not what Euro|>ean street can command : the St liiiwrence, blue and wide ; a bit of the white village of Beauport on its bank ; then a vast breadth of pale green, upward-sloping meadows ; then the purple height*; and the hazy heaven above them.-' Since l*re.«cott Gate fell, there was '* nothing left, so picturesque and characteristic ns IIoiH? Gate, and T doubt if anywheres in Knro|>e there is a more mediaeval-looking l)it of military architecture. The heavy stone gateway is black with age. and the gate, which has probably never been closed in our century, is of massive frame, set thick with ndghty bolts and spikes. The wall here sw(>eps along tlie brow of the crag on which the city is built, and a steep stnt't dropx down, by stone- parapeted curve** and angles from the Ujjper to the Lower Town, where, in 1776, nothing but a narrow lane bordered the Pt. liawrence. A considerable breadth of land has since been won from the river, and several streets and many piers now stretch between this alley and the water ; but the old Sault au Matelot still crouches and creeps In Carri r. on Pass! This its set this p QUEBEC. Route 68. 269 along under the shelter of the city wall and the overhanging rock, which is thickly bearded with weeds and grass, and trickles with abundant moisture. It must tie an ice-pit in winter, and I should think it the last spot on the continent for the summer to find ; but when the summer has at last found it, tlie old Sault au Matelot puts on a vagabond air of Soutliern leisure and abandon, not to bo matched anywhere out of Italy. Looking from that jutting rock near Hope Gate, behind which the defeated Americans took refuge from tl>e fire of their enemies, the vista is almost unique for a certain scenic squalor and gyi>sy luxury of color: sag-roofed barns and stables, weak-backed and suiiken-chestcd workshops of every sort lounge along in tumble-down succession, and lean up ngainf^t ihe clifT in every imaginable posture of worth lessneas and decrepitude; light wooden galleries cross to them from the second stories of the honses which look back on the alley ; and over thefic galleries flutters, from a labyrinth of clothes-lines, a variety of bright-coloretl garments of all ages, sexes, and conditions ; while the footway underneath abounds in gossiping women, smoking men, idle poultry, cats, children, and large indolent Newfoundland dogs." (UowELLS's A Chance Arquaintanre.) Passing the ends of these quiet streets, and crossing the gaj) caused by the removal of Ho])e Gate, the Rampart promenade turns to the S., by the immense block of the Laval University (sec page 263) and its concealed gardens. The course is now to the S., and soon reaches the * Grand Bat- tery, where 22 32-pounders command tiie river, and from whose terrace a pleasing view may be obtained. A short detour leads out again to the Dufferin Terrace (see page 259) Des Carri6res St. runs S. from the Place d'Armes to the G(W' emor''s Garden, a pleasant sun mcr-even'ng resort, with a monument 65 ft. high, erected in 1827 to tlie memory of Wolfe and Montcalm, and bear- ing the elegant an 1 classic inscription: Mortem. Vihtus. Communem. > , Famam. Histohia. monumentum. postekitas. Dedit. In the lower garden is a battery which commands the harbor. Des Carri^res St. leads to the iimer glacis of the Citadel, and by turning to the r. on St. Denis St., its northern outworks and approaches may be seen. Passing a cluster of barracks on the r., the Chnlmtrs Church is reached. This is a symmetrical Gothic building occupied by the Presbyterians, and its services have all the peculiarities of the old Scottish church. Beyond this point is St. Louis St., whence the circuit of the walls was begun. The Montcalm and St. John Wards extend W. on the plateau, from the city-walls to the line of the Martello Towers. The population is mostly French, and the quarter is entered by passing down St. John St. and through St. John's (Hate Glacis St. leads to the r., just beyond the walls, N) Mie Convent of the Graij Slsftrn, vliich lias a loCty and olegiint <'li:ip('l I ^UMC are about 70 nuns, whose Ii\es ar«; devoted to teuL-hiiig and to visiting the sick. This building shelters 136 orphans and infirm persons, ■.;l'| *"■♦ St m 1 'I r- : 270 Route 68. QUEBEC. fl I i and the sisters teach 700 female children. It overlooks the St. Charles valley, commanding fine views. Just nbove the nunnery is the Convent of the Christian Brothers, facing on the glacis of the rampart. A short distance out St. John St. is St. Matthew's Church (Episcopal); beyond which is the stately Church of St. John. Claire-Fontaine St. leads S. from this church to the Grande All^e, passing just inside the line of the Martello Towers; and Sutherland St., leading into the Lower Town, is a little Avay bej'ond. The St. Foy toll-gate is less than ^M. from St. John's Church. The Kent Gate, between St. John's Gate and the St. Louis Gate, is a very interesting piece of feudal architecture, with turrets, arrow-slits, etc. It was built by Queen Victoria, as a memcrial of her father, the Duke of Kent. " Above St. John's Gate, at the end of the street of that name, devoted entirely to business, there is at sunset one of the most beautiful views imaginable. The river St. Charles, gambolling, as it were, in the rays of the departing luminary, the light Btill lingering on the spires of Lorette and Gharlesbourg, until it fades away beyond the lofty mountains of Bonhomme and Tonnonthuan, presents an evening scene of gorgeous and surpassing splendor." (Hawkins.) " A sunset seen from the heights above the wide valley of the St Charles, bathing in tender light the long undulating lines of remote hills, and transfiguring with glory the great chain of the Laurentides, is a sight of beauty to remain in the mind for- ever." (Marshall.) » The Montcalm Ward may also be reached by passing out St. Louis St., through the intricate and formidable lines of ravelins and redoubts near the site of the St. Louis Gate. The Convent of the Good Shepherd is in this ward, and has, in its church, a fine copy of Murillo's " Conception," by Plamondon. There are 74 nuns here, 90 penitents, and 600 girl-students. The dark and heavy mediaeval structure on the Grand Allee was built for the Canada Military Asylum, to take care of the widows and orphans of British soldiers Avho died on the Canadian stations. Near the comer of Dt Salaberry St is St. Bridget's Asylum, connected with St. Patrick's Church. The Ladies' Protestant Home is nearly opposite, and is a handsome building of white brck, where 70 old men and young girls are kept from want by the bounty of the ladies of Quebec. The Martello Towers are four in number, and were built outside the extra-mural wards in order to protect them and to occupy the line of heights. They were erected in 1807 - 12, at an expense of $ 60,000, and are arranged for the reception of 7 guns each. They are circular in form, and have walls 13 ft. thick toward the country, while on the other side they are 7 ft. thick. The Jail is about J M. in advance of the towers, and is a massive stone building, with walls pierced for musketry. Near this point (turning to the 1. from the Grand All^e beyond the toll-gate), and on the edge of the Plains of Abraham (extending to the S.), is a monument consisting of a tall column, decked with trophies, and rising from a square base, on which is the inscription.' QUEBEC. JtauU 68. 271 Charles ]!onvent A. short beyond eads S. e of the wn, is a . John's lis Gate, ow-slits, he Duke intirely to The river the Ht^ht ly beyond scene of B,bn thing with glory mind for- ,oiiis St., ibts near he Good Murillo's ents, and le Grand e widows us. Near with St. )site, and ung girls Ltside the e line of ,000, and • in forni, side they wers, and Near this ;), and on nonument ) a square HRKE DIED WOLFE victorious. ^ , Sept. 13. *. ; i- 1759. "The horror of the night, the precipice scaled by Wolfe, the empire he with a handful of men added to England, and the glorious catastrophe of contentedly ter- minating life where his fame began Ancient story may be ransacked, and ostentatious philosophy thrown into the account, before an episode can be found to rank with Wolfe's." (Wiluam Pitt.) TTie Lower Town. The most picturesque approach from the Upper to the Lower Town is by the Champlain Steps (see paj^e 264). This route leads to the busiest and most crowded part of the old river wards, and to the long lines of steam- boat wharves. Notre Dame des Viotoires is in the market square in the Lower Town, and is a plain old structure of stone, built on the site of Champlain's residence. It was erected in 1690, and was called Notre Da.re c?«« Vtctoij'es to commemorate the deliverance of the city from the English attacks of 1690 and 1711, in honor of which an annual religious feast was instituted. A prophecy was nade by a nun that the church would be de- stroyed by the conquering Jritibh; and in 1759 it was burned during the bombardment from Wolfe's batteries. S. of Notre Dame is the spacious Champlain Market, near an open square on whose water-front the river- steamers land. The naiTow Champlain St. may be followed to the S., under Cape Diamond and by the point where Montgomery fell, to the great timber-coves above. St. Peter St. runs N. between the cliffs and the river, and is the seat of the chief trade of the city, containing numerou'^ banks, public offices, and wholesale houses. The buildings are of the prevalent gray stone, and aro massive and generally plain. The parallel lane at the foot of the cliff is the scene of the final discomfiture of the American assault in 1775. It is named Sault au Matelot, to commemorate the leap of a dog from the cliff above, near the Grand Batterv. Leadenhall St. leads off on the r. to the great piers of I'ointe a Carey and to the imposing classic building of the * Custom-Houso, which is at the confluence of the St. Lawrence and St. Charles Rivers. St Paul St. runs W. from near the end of St. Peter St., along the narrow strip between ♦^he St. Charles and the northern cliffs, and passes the roads ascending to the Hope and Palace Gates. The Queen's Fuel- Yard (1. side) is beyond the Palace Market, and occupies the site of an immense range of buildings erected by M. Begon, one of the later Roval In- tendants of New France. Here also lived Bigot in all the feudal splendor of the old French noblesse, on the revenues which he extorted from the oppressed Province. In 1775 the palace was captured by Arnold's Virginia riflemen, who so greatly an- noyed the g:irrlson that the buildings wore mjc ou tire and couKumed by shellB from tlio batteriej of the Ui)per Town. •i^i 272 Route 6S. QUEBEC. St. Pnul St. is proloMcod hy St. J n^vp/i (S7., tlio niiiiii thorouphfnroof this qniirtor, niid t\w lK)iiii.l!iry Ix'twcrii tlic .fsKnics Cartionuul St. IJocli VViirds. The l.'ittor is occniiicij chiefly by inMimtMctdries (on the shori's of tlic St (Mmrlos): and tlic narrnw nihi plMidN-piivcd streets of Jnqnes Tiirticr, townrd tlic iiortlicrii walls, aro lille ' with quaint littlo houses and iiitcivstiiip; (/tnrr view s ahoiit the liouics of the V Midi-Canadian artisans. St. Rooh's Church is a very spaeions huildin;;, with broad in- terior gaIl(M'ies, and contains several reliLrions paintinj;;s. The Convent of Notre Diinu' is opp()site St. h'oeh's, and has 70 nuns (black costume), who teueh 72r» children. The * Marine Hospital is u large and inqxisinj; modem building, in Ionic architecture, situated in a park of six acres. It is rot now in use. The General Hospital and the monastcy of Notre Damo des Anojcs form an »'xtensive pile of buildino;^, on St. Ours St., near the St. Charles. Tliey were foimded by St. Vallier, second bishop of (Jiiebec (in 1GI>3), for invalids and iiuMu-ables. lie spent 100,000 crowns in this work, erecting; tlu' luiest building in Canada (at that time). It is now con(iuote(l by a sui)erior and 45 mms of St. Augustine. The convcnt- chmvh of Notre Dame des Auges has 14 paintings by Leyarc^ witli un Assumption (over tlu^ high altar) dating from 1G71. Pointe mix Li6rrrs. or Hare Pohit, isboyonil the Oonornl IlospitJil, on the mood- OW8 of tlie St. ('Ii,iri« place where the pious Franciscan monks foumhvl the first n,is.>d the d.-uk Sagueiiay clitVs and the vine-laden shores of the Isle of Or!e:ms, he entonMl a bro.id basin where "a mighty pnniiontory, ru^'ged and bare, thrust its scar}ted front into the raging current. Here, clothed in the majesty of solitude, bre;>tliing the stern poetry of the wilderness, rose the < liIVs now rich with heroic nienu.ries, when> the liery Count Frontenac cast detiaine at his foes, whew Wolfe, ^lontcalni, and Mont'Toniery fell. Asxet all was a nameless barbar- ism, and a cluster of wigw.ams held the site of the rock-built «ity of Quebec. Its name was Stadaconc, and it owned the sway of the royal Donuacona." It is held as an old tradition that when Cartier's Norman sailors first saw the prtMuontory of Cape Diamond, they shouted " Quel hfc .' *' (" What a beak I '") which by a natural elision has been changed to Quebec. Others claim that they named the place in lovinjr memory of Candebec, on the Seine, to which its natural features bear a magnified n'seniblance. Hut the mi>re likely oriirin of the name is from the Indian word kiber^ signifying a strait, and ai)plied to the ( oniparative narrowing of the river above the Hasin. It is, however, held in support of the Norman origin of the mime that the seal (^f William de la I'ole, Earl of Snlfolk in the 15th century, bears the title of liOrd of Quebec. This noble had large domains in France, and was the vic- tor at Crevaut aud Compeigne, and the conqueror of .loan of Arc, but was impeached site, I » Char a naval plored tl l63A)he brave, it portance Huroni, QUEliFX'. Route OS. 273 ) of this Wards, (on the ects of lit little i\iiii(iian oiul in- rrcnf of u'), wlio ding, in in use. re Diinio iioar tlio (Jucl)ec ^ in this t is now convcnt- with un the moad- Kriinciscan unrtcra in oiiimoona, [licdral of the dlHUS- upied by rising on ter. 8 attended and then o( only 120 id St. Law- of the Isle iifrgod anil ;hc niajt'sty now ritli t his foes, ss harhnr- Liebcc. ltd st saw the !'•) which named the \t\in's hear tlic Indian ol tlu> rivor r tiie niiine , bears the vas tlu' vic- ini peached and put to death (as narrated by ShakestMvire, Kinj? Henry VT , Part TT., Act TV., Scene 1) for losing; the Kii^iisii provincrs in Krance utter 114 ardiiotis catii|iiii<;iiM. When (!art.i«!r went to Montreal his men l»iiilt a tort and prepareil winter-)|uiirterfl near tlie St Cliarles Kiver. Soon after iiis return iin intense (idil ^et in, and nearly every man in tiie tli'et was stridden down witli the seurw , of whieh niiiny died in Knmt sntferin);. In th(* s|)rin^Minie, Ciiriier |il!intei| ihe cross and tienr-de-lis on the site of (.inehee, and retnriieil to France, earrs in^c Kin); Doimai'ona and M'vcral of ids cincfs as |»ri-oners. Tlu'se Indi.ins were soon afterw.utls received into tiie ('atliclie ('linr<-)i, witii nincli pomp and leremons, and died within a year, in Fra.ice. In 1 04 1 ('iirtier returned witli 5 ve>el-i and erected forts ut <'ap Iton^e, bnf. th(» Imliins were suspicions, and the colony wns soon ntiiinloiied. Soon after- wardrt llolterval, tlie Viceroy of N(>vv h'rxnce, fonndeil another <'olony on tjie Hanie site, tnit after a loni; and nds(?niiile svinter it also w.is l)roken i;p. In tlie yeiir III IS the city of (^nelte*- was fonnded liy the nolde Champlain,' who er«'cted a fort here, ami laid the foundations of ('anada. A party of Kriin< i44. In Ili'JS Sir Daviil Kirke vainly attacked the place with a small Kni^lish fleet, hut in It'rJMie was more snc- cessful, and, alter a loiijc hlockaile, made hims(>lf master of (inehec. It wa-i re.-tored to France in ItvJJ ; and in 1l>«T> (lovernor Champlain died, and was l>nried in the Low((r Town. Champlain's successor was (Mia rles de Montmaj;ny, a hrav«! and de- vout Knixht of Malta, on whom the IrcM|Uois hestowed the name of Ononlio (•' Great Mountain '■). The work of founding new settlements and of proselyting the Ilurons and 7;{ hi^ .'■ciit to tinel»e«- 1,(100 (;irls, most of whom wore of the Frencli pea.saiitry ; thoiit^li tlie lutendant, mindl'iil of the tastes of his oflicers, demanded and received a consignment of voiniK ladies (^^ t/nnoisflles hien ckoijies'''). Tlie.se cargoes included a wide v.irietv, from I'arisiun v.if^mntH to Nor- man ladies, and wen; maliciously stvled hy one of the chief nuns, '' ndxed f^ood-t " {une marrlmnilise. mtUt). The j^ovcimMfiit provided tliem with dowries ; hiw liclorn were excluded hy law from tradiii);, fishimr, and liiintinf;,and were distinj^uished hy '* martcH of infamy ''; and the French Crown j;ave hounfics f»tr children (each inhab- itant who liad 10 children heinK «'utitled to a pension of from 400 to H(K) livref). About the year l()tj4 the <"ity indulniMJ in cxfrMordiiiary festivities on tlu; (xcasion of the arrival of tim hones of St. Fiavien and St. Felid by the ,Man|ui-< dt; Tracy, the Intendant Talon, and the vali.mt Ooun-elhis, V)ehi;;d whom marched tlu! royal giianls and the fumouH Savoyard regiment of (Jarignan-Saliercs, veh^rans of fh»! Turkish campaigns The dioce.se of Quebec was founded in 1(J74, and endowed '.vith tiio revenues of tlie ancient abbeys of Maubec and Henevent. In tlie .same shi|) with I'ishop Laval came Kather Uennepin, who explored tho Mi.s.sissippi from the Falls of St. Anthony to the Gulf of Mexico, and tlie fearless explorer La Salle. In 1672 the Count de Fronteiiae was .lent here as Governor, and in IMOO he bravely repulsed an attack by Sir Win. I'hipps's Heet (from Moston), inflicting f-iivere damage by a cannonade from the fort, llesides many men, tlie assailants lost their adndral's standard and several ships. In 1711 Sir lloveiiden Walker sailed from Boston against (Jnebec, but he lost in one day eight vessel-* and 884 men l)y shii)wr( ck on the terrible ii-ef; of the Egg Islands. Strong fortiflc,aM)ns were built soon after ; and in 1759 Gen. Wolfe came up the river with S,(»'»0 IlriMsh soldiers. The Marquis de Montcalm was tlien Governor, and he moved tho French army into fortified lines on Heauport I'lains, where he defeat((d tli(> British in a sjui-^ninary action. On the nigiit of Sept. 12, Wolfe's army drift«'d up stream on the rising tide, and succeeded in scaling the steep clilTs beyond the city. They were fired upon by the French outposts ; but before Montcalm could bring his forces across the St. Charles the Brit- ^ Champliiin was born of a good family m the province of Snintongp, in 1.'570. Ho became a naval officer, and was iif'tcrwiird ntta'hed to the person of King Henri \X , In W^'' he ex- plored tho St Lawrence River np to tho St. Louis Kapids, iind altcrwnrd i until his death in 1633) he explored the country from Nantucket to the head-wiiters of the Ottawa. He was a brave, merciful, and zealous chief, and held that " the Ridvntion of one houI is of moie im- portance than the foundini; of a new cmnlre. ' He estabUshed strong missiont among the Hurona, fought the Iroquois, and founded Quebec. 12* R K^ 274 RiruU 08, QUEBEC. I ish lines were formed upon the Plains of Abraham ; and in the short bnt desperate battle which ensuud both the generals were mortally wounded. The English lost 664 men, and the French lost 1,5(M). The French army, which was largely < ompo^ed of provincial levies (with the regiments of La Guienne, Royal Koussilun, Beam, La Sarre, and Languedoc), gave way, and retreated across the St. Charles, and a few days later the city surreuden;d. In April, 1760, the Chevalier de Levis (of that Levis family —Dukes of Yentadour — which claimed to possess rei-ords of their lineal descent from the patriarch Levi) led the reorganized French army to St. Foy, near Quebec. Gen. Murray, hoping to surprise Levis, advanced (with 3,0()0 men) from his fine position on the Plains of Abraham ; but the French were vigilant, and Murray was defeated and hurled back within the city gates, having lost 1,(K)0 men and 20 cannon. Levis now laid close siege to the city, and battered the walls (and especially St. John's Gate) from three heavy field-works. Quebec answered with an almost incessant cannonade from 182 guns, until Commodore Swanton came up the river with a fleet from England. The British supremacy in Canada was soon afterwards assured by the Treaty of Paris, and Voltaire congratulated Louis XV. on being rid of" 1,500 leagues of frozen coun- try." The memorable words of Gov. Shirley before the Massachusetts Legislature (June 28, 1746), " Canada est delenda,^^ were at last verified, but the campaigns had cost the British Government $400,000,000, and resulted in the loss of the richest of England's colonies. For the attempted taxation of the Americans, which resulted in the War of Independence, was planned in order to cover the deficit caused in the British Treasury by the Canadian campaigns. In the winterof 1775-6 the Americans besieged the city, then commanded by Gen. Guy Carleton (afterwards made Lord Dorchester). The provisions of the besiegers began to fail, their regiments were being depleted by sickness, and their light guns made but little impression on the massive city walls ; so an assault was ordered and conducted before dawn on Dec. 31, 1775. In the midst of a heavy snow-storm Arnold advanced through the Lower Town from his quarters near the St. Charles River, and led his 800 New-Englanders and Virginians over two or three barricades. The Mon- treal Bank and several other massive stone houses were filled with British regulars, who guarded the approaches with such a deadly fire that Arnold's men were forced to talte refuge in the adjoining houses, while Arnold himself was badly wounded and carried to the rear. Meanwhile Montgomery was leading his New-Yorkers and Con- tinentals N. along Cham plain St. by the river-side. The intention was for the two attacking columns, after driving the enemy from the Lower Town, to unite before the Prescott Gate and carry it by storm. A strong barricade wa« stretched across Champlain St. from the cliff to the river ; but when its guards saw the great masses of the attacking column advancing through the twilight, they tied. In all proba- bility Montgomery would have crossed the barricade, delivered Arnold's men by at- tacking the enemy in the rear, and then, with 1,600 men flushed with victory, would have escaladed the Prescott Gate and won Quebec and Canada, — but that one of the fleeing Canadians, impelled by a strange caprice, turned quickly back, and fired the cannon which stood loaded on the barricade. Montgomery and many of his ofllcers and men were stricken down by the shot, and the column broke up in panic, and fled. The British forces were now concentrated on Arnold's men, who were hemmed in by a sortie from the Palace Gate, and 426 officers and men were made prisoners. A painted board has been hung high up on the clitf over the place in Champlain St. where Montgomery fell. Montgomery was an officer in Wolfe's army when Quebec was taken from the French 16 years before, and knew the ground. His mistake was in heading the forlorn hope. Quebec was the capital of Canada from 1760 to 1791, and after that it served as a remi-capital, until the found- ing of Ottawa City. In 1846, 2,900 houses were burnt, and the place was nearly destroyed, but soon revived with the aid of the great lumber-trade, which is still its specialty. In September, 1874, Quebec was filled with prelates, priests, and enthusiastic people, and the second centennial of the foundation of the diocese was celebrated with great pomp. Nine triumphal arches, in Latin, Byzantine, Romanesque, Classic, and Gothic architecture, were erected over the streets of the Upper Town, and dedi- cated to the metropolitan dioceses of North America ; an imposing procession passed under them and into the Cathedral, which was endowed on that day with the nan.e and privileges of a basilica; and at evening the city was illuminated, at a cost of $30,000. In the pageant was borne the ancient flag of Ticonderoga (Le Drajmau de Cariilon), which floated over Montcalm's Tictorioas anay when he defeated Aber* QUEBEC. HauU 68. 275 lesperste ;li8h lost onipo8ed earn, La ad u few entadour ■ch Levi) loping to ['lains of rled back aid close om three from 182 Dd. The of Paris, zen coun- sgislature dgiis bad ichept of [ resulted ed in the d by Gen. besiegers ight guns iered and nan Arnold Etiver, and The Mon- regulars, jre forced Linded and and Con- »r the two Ite before led across sat masses all proba- nen by at- ory, would at one of , and fired iny of his )ke up in men, who men were f over the in Wolfe's knew the capital of the found- ;va8 nearly i is still its athusiastio celebrated lie, Classic, , and dodi- Kion pasEed the nan.e a cost of Drapnau de ated Aber* erombie oa Lake Ghamplain (July 8, 1768), and is now one of the most esteemed trophies of Quebec. The annals of the Church contain no grander chapter than that which records the career of the Canadian Jesuits. Unarmed and alone, they passed forth from Quebec and Montreal, and traversed all the wide region between Labrador and the remote West, bravely meeting death in its most liugering and horrible forms at the hands of the vindictive savages whom they came to bleds. Their achievements and their fate filled the world with amazement. Even Puritan New England, proudly and sternly jealous of her religious liberty, received their envoy with honors; Boston, Plymouth, and Salem alike became his gracious hosts; and the Apostle Eliot entertained him at his Roxbury parsonage, and urged him to remain. '^To the Jesuits the atmosphere of Quebec was wellnigh celestial. 'In the cli- mate of New France,' they write, ' one learns perfectly to seek only one God, to have no desire but God, no purpose but for God.' And again : ' To live in New France is in truth to live in the bosom of God.' ' If,' adds Le Jeuue, ' any one of those who die in this country goes to perdition, I think he Mill be doubly guilty.' " "^ Meanwhile from Old France to New came succors and reinforcements to the missions of the forest. More Jesuits crossed the sea to urge on the work of conver- sion. These were no stem exiles, seeking on barbarous shores an asylum for a per- secuted faith. Rank, wealth, power, and royalty itself smiled on their enterprise, and bade them God-speeJ. Yet, withal, a fervor more intense, a self-abnegation more complete, a self-devotion more constant and enduring, will scarcely find its record on the pages of human history It was her nobler and purer part that gave life to the early missions of New France. That gloomy wilderness, thos^ hordes of savages, had nothing to tompt the ambitious, the proud, the grasping, or the indolent. Obscure toil, solitude, privation, hardship, and death were to be the missionary's portion *' The Jesuits had borne all that the human frame seems capable of bearing. They had escaped as by miracle from torture and death. Did their zeal flag or their courage fiul ? A fervor intense and unquenchable urged them on to more distant and more deadly ventures. The beings, so near to mortal sympathies, so human, yet so divine, in whom their faith impersonated and dramatize'! the great principles of Christian faith, — virgins, saints, and angels, — hovered over them, and held be- fore their raptured sight crowns of glory and garlands of immortal bliss. They burned to do, to suffer, and to die ; and now, from out a living martyrdom, they turned their heroic gaze towards an horizon dark with perils yet more appalling, and saw in hope the day when they should bear the cross into the blood-stiiined dens of the Iroquois. In 1647, when the powerful and bloodthirsty Iroquois were sweeping over Can- ada in all directions, the Superior of the Jesuits wrote: " Do not imagine that the rage of the Iroquois, and the loss of many Christians and many catechumens, can bring to naught the mystery of the cross of Jesus Christ and the efficacy of his blood. We shall die ; we shall be captured, burned, butehered : be it so. Those who die in their beds do not always die the best death. I see none of our company cast down. On the contrary, they ask leave to go up to the Hurons, and some of them protest that the fires of the Iroquois are one of their motives for the journey." *' The iron Br^beuf, the gentle Garnier, the all-enduring Jogues, the enthusiastic Chaumonot, Lalemant, Le Mercier, Chatelain, Daniel, Pijart, Rogueneau, Du Peron, Poncet, Le Moyne, — one and all bore themselves with a tranquil boldness, which amazed the Indians and enforced their respect When we look for the result of these missions, we soon become aware that the infiuence of tlic French and the Jesuits extended far beyond the circle of converts. It eventually modified and softened the manners of many unconverted tribes. In the wars of the next century we do not often find those example'' of diabolic atrocity with which the earlier an- nals are crowded. The savage burned his enemies alive, it is true, but he seldom ate them ; neither did he torment them with the same deliberation and persistency. He was a savage still, but not so often a devil.*' (Parkman.) The traveller who wishes to study more closely this sublime episode in the New- World history may consult the brilliant and picturesque historical narratives of Mr. Francis Parkman : " The Jesuits of North America," " The Pioneers of France in the New World," and " La Salle and the Discovery of the Great West." LeMoine's " Quebec, Past and Present," and ' Picturesque Quebec," should also be read. in <■'. 276 Route 69. BEAUPORT. ,!' 69. The Environs of Quebec. This district Ih funiud for itH beuuty, and in flilod with objrctfl of intercut to the tourlHt. Tliu suburban villuf^ttH can !•(> viniti'd by pedestrian tours ; but in that ca«« it i8 bust to cut uiT coniuiuiiicatiun witli tliu city, and to k\w« p around on tlie great curve whicli includes tlic cliicf ))oints of attraction. Tlu' villu^i^c inns furnish poor accouunodations. i^ucli a wall\ing tour sliould be taken only after a 8ea>on of dry weatiier, else the roads will be found very muddy. Kut all the world ffiH-n about In carringcA here, ard a mlMie an*l ilriver <»an be hired at vcr\ low rates. The quickest route to .>h)utuioienci aud ^t. Aune is by the Quebec, Moutuioreuci and Charlevoix Uuiiwa^ . ''I don't know whether I cared more for Qut'bec or the beautiful little villages in the country all about it. The whole land-cape looks just like a dream of ' Kvan- geline.' .... But if we are condn^ to the grand and beautiful, why, there is no direction in which you can look about Quebec without f-ei-ing it ; and it is always mixed up with something so fandliar and homelike that my heart warms to it." (UoWKLLS^s A Chance. Acquaintance.) **The Falls of Montmorcnoi are 7 M. from the Dorchester Bridge, which is about 1 M. from the U|)per- Fovvii Market Square. Tlie route usually taken leads down Palace St. and by the (Jueon's Fuel-Yard (see page 271) and St. Roch's Church. As the bridge is being crossed, the Marine Hospital is seen on the 1., and on the r. are the shipyards of St. Roch's Ward and the suburb of St. Charles. The road is broad and firm, and leads across a fertile plain, with fine retrospective views. The Benu- jxyi't Lunatic Asylum is soon reached, near wliicii is the villa of Glenalla. The as^'lum formerly consisted of two large buildings, one for each sex; but the female department was destroyed by fire in January, 1876, and several of its inmates were burnt with it. Beauport is 3^-5 M. from Quebec, and is a long-drawn-out village of 1,300 inhabitants, with a tall and stately church whose twin spires are seen from a great distance. There are several flour and barley mills in the parish, and a considerable lumber business is done. The seigniory was founded in 1634 by the Sieur Giflard, and along its plains was some of the heaviest fighting of the war of the Conquest of Canada. It is " in that part of Canada which was the first to be settled, and where the face of the counti'y and the people have undergone the least change from the beginning, where the influence of the States and of Europe is least felt, and the inhabitants see little or nothing of the world over the walls of Quel)ec." The road from Quebec to St. Joachim is lined by a continuous succession of the quaint and solid little Cana- dian houses of whitewashed stone, placed at an angle with the street in order to face the south. The farms are consequently remarkably narrow (.■••onietimes but a few yards wide and ^ M. long), and the country is bristling with fences In 1064 the French king forbade that the colonists should make any more clearings, " except one next to another" ; but in 1745 he was obliged to order that their farms should be not less than H arpents wide. These narrow domains arose from the social char- acter of the people, who were thus brought close together ; from their need of con- centrjition as a defence against the Indians; and from the subdivision of estates by inheritjtnce. The Latin Catholicism of the villagers is shown by roadside crosses rising here and there along the way. So late as 1827 Montmoienci County (wliich is nearly as large as Massachusetts) had but 6 shops, 30 artisans, 2 schools, 5 churches (all Catliolic), and 5 vessels (with an aggregate of 59 tons). There has been but little change since. In 1861, out of 11,136 inhabitants in the county, 10,708 were of French origin, of whom but a few score understand the English language. MONTMORENCI FALLS. HouU69. 277 M. Romoau (^^La France nitx Colonies''^) has proved, nfU'r inuoh labor and re- soarch, that tho roloni.sts who sottU^il the ()ot« do Hi-aupri^ nnil HtMiiiporf wore from the uuciont French province of \a\ I'erche ; iuliiiii(; tliiit Mdiifreal wiw colonixeil from tho province of Anjoii, tlu; Isle of OrleaiiH from I'oitou, ami tiuebec, Trow Rivieres, and tho Uichelieu valley from Normandy. Bcvond tho cliurcli of Boiuiport tin; road c-diitiinu's past tho narrow do- mninson cithor hand, and runs alon^thosicUiof tho IlalditnantI estate. Tho Montmorent'i River is crossed, and tlie traveller stops at tho Muntm&i'enci Restaurant^ where lunch may be ohtained. At this point admission is given to the grounds about the Falls (foe, 25c.); and the tourist should visit not only the pavilion near tho brink (which connnands a charming view of Quebec), but also tho small platform lower down (and reached by a long stairway), whence tho best front-view Is obtained. The descent to tho basin below is ditricult, and will hardly repay the labor of tho return. A short distance below tho Falls is the confluence of tho Montmorenci with tho St. Lawrence, and immense saw-mills are located there, em|)lo,v- ing 7 - 800 men and cutting up 2,500 logs a day. Near tho Falls is Ualili- marul House, formerly occupied by the Duke of Kent, Queen Victoria's father; and on the clllfs by the river aro seen tho towers of a suspension' bridge which fell soon after its erection, hurling three persons nto the fatal abyss below. At tho foot of these Falls an immense icc-cono (some- times 200 ft. high) is formed every winter, and here the favorite sport of tobogganning is carried on. I'he * Natural Steps nre lij M. above tho Falls, where the Montmorenci is contracted into a narrow limit and rushes down with great velocity, having cut its bed down through successive strata and leaving stop-liko terraces on either side. Fine specimens of trilobites have been found in this vicinity. Tho road running on beyond tho Montmorenci Hestaurant leads to Ange Gardion and St. Anno (see Route 70). Tho views on tho way back to Quebec are very beautiful. The old French habitans call the Montmorenci Fall, La Var.he (" The Cow"), on account of the resemblance of its foaminj; waters to milk. Others attribute this name to the noise like the lowing of a cow which is n>aile by the Fall during tt»o prevalence of certain winds. Innnediately about the basin and along the Mont- morenci River, many severe actions took place during Wolfe's siege of Quelxjc. This river was for a time the location of the picket-lines of the British and French armies. '* It is a very simple and noble fall, and leaves nothing to bo desired It is a splendid introduction to tho scenery of Quebec. Instead of an artificial fountain in its square, Quebec has this magnificent natural waterfall to adorn one side of ita harbor." (Thorkau.) "The effect on tho beholder is most delightful. The river, at some distance, seems suspended in the air, in a sheet of billowy foam, and, contmsted, as it is, with the black frowning abyss into which it falls, it is an object of the highest in- terest. It has been compared to a white ribbon, suspended in the air ; this com- parison does justice to the delicacy, but not to the grandeur of tho cataract '" (8a/- UMAN.) " A ."afo platform le.ids along tlie rocks to a pavilion on a point at the side of the foil, and on a level with it. Hero the gulf, nearly 300 ft. deep, with its walls of chocolate-covered earth, and its patches of emerald herbage, wet with eternal spray, opens to the 8t. Lawrence. Moutmoi'euci is one of tlie loveliest waterlaUs. la ita 278 Route 69. INDIAN LORETTE. general chamcter it bean «mi« reMtnhIanr« to the IMnne-Vachp, \n RwUserland, whioli, how««v«T, in much Miialler. The w»t<>r Jh i^now-whit*', tliih'd, in the heaviest uortioiiH <»f the fiili, with a Kofl yellow, like that i»f raw nilk . In fart, Itntken aw It it l)y the irn'Kiilar Mg*' of the rork. it n>inln|)ear- anco which resembleM snow, in fi'Uing in a chasm among the riK'ks [261] ft. t)elow. At the bottom tlu>re riseH an innnense foam in undulating miutw^s, which, wlien the t«un lights up tlu .l«»Mult niiHMionnriim |(la tltmity. Many of thi*ni wort; tlioir iiair in hriHtlinK ri«iKi*s, whunrc nTtiiin afton- iHhcd Fn-nrlinH-n, on first H«>«;iiiK fiu-ni, (>xrlHini*>(i " (^urUrs hurf% ' " (*' Wiiat Inian*' hH, and aft«>r many yuarM of most liarWiirouM warfare, Hn<-ci'«>dud in HtorniinK tlio ('liriHtian Huron townH (»f St. .losopli, St. I^iiaco, and St. Louis. Tlic nutiun was aniiiliiiat«-d : a f«-w of ItH |K>oply a diring lr(M|Ui d : tli« durvivorrt ennim(H>d inidur tlie Kunti of tliu fort for 10 }<>lilo fmgmunt of tli» great Huron nation r ti^Ml at Anrienne Lorette. It wiu« under the care of tlie Jesuit ('haunionot, wlio, wliilo a mere )>oy. hud Htulen a Hmall sum of money and tied from France into Lomimnly. In flltli anu poverty ho begged IUh way to Ancona, and thence to lioretto, wliere. at tiie Holy IIouHe, lie tiad an angelic vision. He went to Homo, b«4;amo a Jesuit, and ex|>eri- enced another nurarlu fro>>; Lonitto; afti>r whieli lie {NUUied to the Huron miHHion in Canada, where ho was delivered from martyrdom by tho aid of St. Micluiol. He erected at Aneienno Ijorette a ehapol in exact fiut-simile of the Holy House at Ix>- retto ; and here he claimed that many minicles were perfonned. In l^KiT the Ilurons moved to New Lorette, "a wild spot, covered with tlie primitive forest, and seamed i)y a deep and tortuous ravine, where the St (Miarles foams, white aH a Hnow-drift, over the bliu-k ledgoH, and where the sunshine struggles through matted boughs of the pine and the tir, to bosk for brief momontH on tho mofwy ntcks or flash on the iuirrying waters. On a plat^Miu beside tlio torn-nt, another clui(>el was built to Our f.i>tdy, and another Huron town spmng up; and here to this day, the tourist flndti the n.'mnant of a lost people, harmlesM weaverH of l>aHketH and ficwers of moccasonR,the Huron blood fast bleaching out of tliem,>ifl, witli every generation, they mingle and fade awuy in the French population around.'' (Parkman. ) Vinitors to Lorette iiro rwominended to return to Quebco by another rond from that on which they went out. Anclenne Lorette may be reached from this point, and so may the lakes of Beauport and St. Charles. Ij days' journey to the N. is Lac Rond, famous for its fine himtinp and fishing. Charlesbourg (Huot's boardin<^-house) is 4 M. fmm (Quebec, on afar- viewing ridge, and is clustered about a venerable convent nnd old church (with copies of the Last Communion of St. Jerome and the Sistine Ma- donna over its altars). It is the chef-lieu of the seigniory of Notre Dame des Angos, and its products are lumber and oats. To this point (then known as Bourg Royal) retired the inhabitants of the Isle of Orleans, in 1759, when ordered by Montcalm to fall back before the British. They were 2,500 in number, and were led by their cur^s. Pleasant roads lead from Charlesbourg to Lorette, Lake St. Charles, Lake Beauport, and Cha- teau Bigot. Lake St. Charles is 11 M. from Quebec, and 6 M. from Lorette. It Is 4 M. long, and its waters are very clear and deep. Tho red trout of this lake are of delicate flavor. There is a remarkable echo from the shores. " On arriving at the vicinity of the lake, the spectator is delighted by the beauty and picturesque wildnesa of its banks Trees grow immediately on the borders of the water, which is indented by several points advancing into it, and forming lit- tle bays. The lofty hills which suddenly rise towards the N., in shapes singular and diversified, are overlooked by mountaius which exalt, beyond them, their iuor« . distant summits.'* (Hbriot.) ij IS if H 280 Route 69. CHATEAU BIGOT. Ch&teau Bigot is about 7 M. from Quebec, by way of Charlesbourg, where the traveller turns to the r. around the cliurch, and rides for 2 M. along a ridge which alVords charming views of the city on the r. *' It is a lovely road out to Chateau Bigot. First you drive through the ancient suburbs of the Lower Town, and then you mount the smooth, hard high- way, between pretty country-houses, towards tlie village of Charlesbourg, while Quebec shows, to your casual backward glance, like a wondrous painted scene, with the spires and lofty roofs of the Upper Town, and the long, irregular wall wandering on the verge of theclifl"; then the thronging gables and chimneys of St. Roch, and again many spires and convent walls." The ruins of the Chateau are only reached after driving for some distance through a narrow wheel-track, half overgrown with foliage. Tliere remain the gables and division-wall, hi thick masonry, w ith a deep cellar, outside of which are heaps of debris, over which grow alders and lilacs. The ruins are in a cleared space over a little brook where trout are found; and over it is the low and forest-covered ridge of La Montnyne ties Ormea. This land was in tlie Fiefrfe la Tn'in't4, which was granted about theyoar 1640 to M Denis, of La Rocholle The ch.teau was built for liis fi-uJal niai).»i(>n by the Royal Inteiidnnt Talon, Ilaron dos Islets, and was afterwards occuiiicd by the last Royal Intendant, M. Bigot, a dissolute and licentious French fatrap, who stole 32,000,000 from the treasury. The lefjjend tells that Bigot used this huilding for a hunthig-lodge and place of revels, and that once, while pursuing a hear an.ong tlie hills, he got lost, and was guided back to the chateau hy a lovely Algoii<{uin maiden whom he had met in the forest. She reuuiined in this building lor a long time, in a luxuriou-i houdoir, and was visited frequently by the Intendant ; but one night she was assassinated by some unknown fierson, — either M. bigot's wife, or her own mother, avenging the dishonor to her tribe (see " rhTit^'au Bigot," hy .J. M. LeMoine, Bold at the Quebec bookstores for 10c. ; also llowells's A Chance Acquaintance, Chap. XII. ). Sillery (or St. Colomh) is 3 M. from Quebec, by the Grand All^e and the Cap-Rouge Road (see page 270). After passing Wolfe's Monument, the road leads across x\w Plains <>f Ab rah urn y on which were fought the sanguinary battles of 1759 and 1700. Sillery is a parish of 3,000 inhab- itants, on whose river front are 17 coves, where most of the lumber of Quebec is guarded. The Convent of .J i$hs- Ma via is a new building of great si/.e and imposing architecture; opposite which is the handsome Gothic school-house whiiii was given to this parish by IMshop Mountain. In the vicinityof Sillery are several fine villas, amid ornatjiental grounds: March- 7nont, once the homo of Sir .John Harvey and Hishoj) Stewart; Spencer Wood, "the most beautiful domain of Canada," with a park of 80 acres, fonnorly the home of the Karl of Klgiii and other governors, now the resi- dence of the Lieutenant-Governor (»t' the Trovince of t^uebec (S 10,000 is voted annually for its maintenance by the Legislature); WvodJieUl^ founded by the Bishop of Sainos; Spencer Grange, where lives J. M. LeMoine, the author and anti(juarian; Bardjield, Bishop Mountain's former homo; Cataracouy, where the British princes, Albert Edward CAP ROUGE. Route 69, 281 and Alfred, sojourned; Benmore, Col. Rliodes's estate; and several others. The beautiful cemetery of Mount llerinon, which was laid out by Major Douglas, the planner of Greenwood Ccnietery, is iu this vicin- ity, and is adorned by the graceful chapd of St. Michael. The people of Siller}' have erected a n)onunient, sustaining a mar- ble cross, near the place where Fatlicr Masse was buried, in 1(>4(), in the ancient (Church of St. Michael (which has long since disappeared). The old Jesuit Resulence still remaii;s, and is a massive building of stone. The Chevalier Noel Brulart dc Sillery, Knight of Malta, and fonnerly a hij?h offi- cer at the court of Queen Marie de Medicis, having renounced the world, devoted his vast revenues to religious purposes. Among his endowments was the foundation of a Christian Algonquin vill.ige just ahove Quebec, which the .lesuits niiincd Sillery, in his honor Here the Ahenaquis of Maine learned the elements of ('atholicisni, which was aft<'rw»rds luifolded to them in their villages on the Kennelwc, by Father Druilletes. This worthy old clergyman followed thcin in their grand hunts about Moosehead Lake and the northern forests, " with toil too great to buy the kingdoms of this world, hut very small as a price for tlie Kingdom of Heaven "' From the inission-house at Sillery departed .logues, Hrt'beuf, Lilemant, and many other heroic missionaries and martyrs of the primitive ('anadian Church. '' It was the scene of miracles and martyrdoms, and marvels of many kimls, and the centre of the mis- sionary efforts among the Indiins. huleed, fesv events of the pi it was overrun and occu- pied by the famous Hritish corps of the Louishourg (Jrcnndicrs. After ascending out of the glen of Aiige (Jardicn, the road crosses ele- vated blulTs, and on the r. are rich and extensive intervales, cut into nar- row strips by walls. They extend to the margin of the river, beyond which are the white villages and tin-dad spires of the Isle of Orleans. Ch&teau Kioher is a compact and busy village of 2,000 inhabitants, over which, on a bold knoll, is the spacious parish-church. The views fi*om the platform of this edilice are very pretty, including a large area of the parish, the village of St. I'lerre on the Isle of Orleans, and the distant promontory of Cape Diamond. During the hunting season the Chateau- Richer marshes are nuich frecjueuted by Quebec sportsmen, who shoot great numbers, of snipe, ducks, and partridges. The upland streams afford pood trout-fish inj ig. On a rooky promontory noar Ch^toau Richer was the site of the ancient Franolfi- can monastery. This massive stone hnihlinj; was erected ahont tlie year 1H96, and was •■occupied hy a community of pea<'et'ul monks. When tlie Itritish army was fighting tiie French near the Kails of .Montmorenci, a det^ichment whs sent here to get provisions; hut tlie Trench villajjers, under the intiuence of their spiritual guides, refused to jtive aid, and fortified thems«'lves in the monastery. The reduc- tion of this iuiproniptu fortre.-re well hattered by cannon shot, and were dispo>;sessed hy the troops. r« fore the hondiardment the parisli priest met the Kn>?li.Oi otflcers, and told them that they fouf>ht for their king, and he sliould he as fearless in tlefending liis people. The villap'rs made a tierce sortie from the convent durinijj the sicjje, hut were repuL^-eW with the loss of 30 killed. Tlie 8it« of the monastery is now occupied by tlie ^ch:'< of the Sisters of Le Bon Pasteur, and part of its walls still remain. The little roadside auberge called the Hotel Chanipetni is about 1 M. be- vond Chateau Richer. The *Sault a In Puce is about 2 M. bevotul the village, and is visited by leaving the road where it crosses the Riviere kla Puce, and ascending to the 1. by the path. The stream leaps over a long clitV, falling into the shadows of a bowery glen, and has been likened to the Cauterskill Falls. •'This fall of La Puce, the least remarkable of the four which we visited in this vicinity, we had never heard of until we canH> to ('anada, and yet, .«o far as I know, there is nothing of the kind in New Eii^rland to he compared with it. Most travel- lers in Canada would not hear of it, though they might go so near as to hear it." (TiioRKAii.') TluMv are other pretty cascades farther up the stream, but they are difficult of access. " The lower fall is 112 ft in height, and its hanks, formed by elevated acclivities, wooded to tlieir summits, spread around a solemn gloom, which the whiteness, the movements, and the noise of the descending waters combine to make interesting and attnu'tive The environs of this river area of c distant ,;iiateau- ho Blioot ns alford it Franoifl- ■ ir)U6, iind army wa« L'lit here to r pjiiritual Tlu^ ri'duc- und it was liiTS mid a inttcrod by ■dinont the tluir king, ado a fiorce )f 30 killed. of Le Bon t 1 M. be- cyond the i vie re kla ver a long likened to dted in this r as 1 know, Most travol- to lioiir it." jut they uro 1 nocllvitics, jitvnoss, the ! inti-rt'sting luccossion of >e uiouutain, diflolosei itflelf to the contemplation of the npectator, and delightfi hin eye with raried muses of shining foam wliich, Huddcnly iHHuing fVom a deep ravine hollowed out by the waters, glide down the almost prrpt^ndicular rock, and fonn a splendid curtain, which loses itself amid th(> foiia^o of .•«ni'rounding woods. 8uch is the scene which the fali of La Puce exhibits." (Heriot.) La Bonue St. Anne (otherwise known as St. Anne du Nord and St. Anne de Beauprt') is 7 M. beyot)d ChAN^au Richer, and is built on a level site just above the intervales. It has about 1,200 inhal)itants, and is sup- ported by the thousands of pilgrims who fr('(|uent its shrine, and l)y sup- plying brick to the Quebec niark«^t. Innnense numl>crs of wild fowl (especially pigeons) are killed here (*very year. Tliereare numerous small inns in the narrow street, all of which are crowded during the sea.son of pilgrimage. On the K. of the village is the new Church of St. Anne, a massive and bcaidiftd strnctiin* of gray stoiu', in classic architectur*'; ]00,(>00 pilgrims viviicd the shrine in 1890. The (»ld building of the * Church of St. Anne is on the bank just above, and is probably the most highly venerated shrine in Anglo-Saxon America. The relics of St. Anne are guarded in a crystal globe, and are exliibited at morning nniss, when their contemplation is said to have effected many miraculous cures. Over the richly adorn by 15i.-hop Laval, who founded here a rural ^'^■nliIlarv in which the Nouth of the jicjisantry were instructed. They were well grounded in the doctrine and discipline of the Church, and were In- structed in the n^eclninic art.-; and in varioun liranchcs of farn.ing. This was the first " agricultural college '" in America. The broad seigniory of the Cotede 15eauv)re, which lies bi'tween St. .Joachim and Heanport, was tlien an appanage of Bishop Laval, and was more populou.^ than Quebec itself. " Above the vast meadows of the parish of St .loachim, tliat here border the St. Ijawrence, there rises like an island a low fiat hill, hedged round with forests, like the tonsured head of a monk. It was here that Fiaval planted lii.s school. A( ross the n;eadows, a mile or more dis- tant, towers the mount^iin promontory of Cape Tourmente. You may climb its woody steeps, and from the top, waist-deep in blueberry-bushes, survey, from Kamouraska to Quebec, the grand Canadian world outstretched below; or mount the neighboring heights of St. Anne, where, athwart the gaunt arms of ancient pines, the river lies shinui.eiing in sumnier haze, the cottages of the liabitanls are strung like beads of a rosary a ong the Uieadows of Beaupre, the shores of Orleans ba^k in warm light, and far on the horizon the rock of Quebec rests like a faint gray cloud ; or traverse the forest till tlie roar of the torrent guides you to the rocky sol- itude where it holds its savage revels Game on the river ; trout in lakes, brooks, and pool.s ; wild fruits and fiowers on the meadows and mountains; a thou- sand resources of honest and healthful recreatioti here wait the student emancipated from books, but not parted for a moment from the pious influence that hangs about the old walls embosomed in the woods of St. Joachim. Around on plains and hills stand the dwellings of a pcs-iceful peasantry, as difierent from the restless population of the neighboring States as the denizens of some ^'ormau or Breton village." (Park- Man.) 71. The Isle of Orleans. Steam ferry-boats leave Quebec three times daily for the Isle of Orleans. The trip gives beautiful views of tlie city and its marine environs, and of the Mont- morenci Falls and the St. Anne Mts. The island is tniversed by two roads. The N. shore road passes from West Point to St. Pierre, in 6 M. ; St. Famille, 14 M. ; and St Fran\;ois, 20 M The S. shore road runs from West Point to Patrick's Hole, in 6 M. ; St. Laurent, 7^ ; St. John, 13^ ; St. Fran^'ois, 21. A transverse road crosses the island from St. Laurent to St. Pierre. ^ The Isle of Orleans is about 3^ M. from Quebec, and contains 70 square miles (47,923 acres) of land, beiiif? 20 M. long and 5i M. wide. The beau- tiful situation of the island, in the broad St. Lawrence, its picturesque heights and umbrageous groves, its quaint little hamlets and peaceful and primitive people, render Orleans one of the most interesting districts of the Lower Province, and justify its title of " the Garden of Canada." The island was called Minima by the Indians, a large tribe of whom lived here and carried on the fisheries, providing also a place of retreat for the mainland tribes in case of invasion. In 155J5 (Jartier explored these shores and the hills and forests beyond, being warmly welcomed by the resident Indians and feasted with fish, honey, and melons. lie speaks of the noble forests, and adds: "We found there great grape-vines, such as we had not seen before in all the world ; and for that we named it the Isle of Bacchus.*' A year later it received the name of the Isle of Orleans, in honor of De Valois, Duke of Orleans, the son of Francis I of Fiance The popular name was Vlsle ties Sorriers (Wizards' Island), either on account of the marvellous skill of the natives in foretelling futuiv storms and nautical events, or else becau.^e the sup'.'rstitious colonists on the mainland were alarmed at the nightly movements of lights along the insular shores, and attributed to dtnions and wizards the dancing fires whicli were tarried by the Indians in vi.>-itiug their fish- nets during the night-tides. ekirmlsh h soldiers founded ed. They 1 were In- js was the L' IJenupre, (if Bif^hnp nadowB of ni» like a" (if a monk, r niorc dis- y climb its rvey, from • or mount of ancient ibitnnts are g of Orleans a faint gray ic rocky >sol- ut in lakes, inp-, athou- euiancipatcd hang.4 about ns and hills IS population g«- (Pabk- )rleans. The ot the Mout- m West Point The S. sliore ^ ; St. John, jiiurent to St. ns 70 square The beau- picturesque peaceful and districts of iinai^la." loni lived hero iiainlund tribes ills and forests ;ted with fish, ,e found there uid lor tluit we of the Isle of ^ 1 of Fiance on account of jautical events, iliirnied at the to dt inons and ,tiug their fi»h- ST. PIERRE D'ORLEANS. Route 71. 289 The island was granted in 1620 to the Sieur dc C^ien by the Duke dc Montmorenci, Viceroy of New France. In 1675 this district was forincfl into tlic Karldoni of St Laurent, and was conferred on M Hertliclot, wlio assumed the title of the Count of it. Lawrence. In 1601 tlie N. part was occupied In ♦HK) Christian Ilurons, who had tAken refuge under the walls of Quelu'c from tlie exterminatinfjf Inuiuois. In lt)66 the Iroquois demanded that they should come ami ihvell in tiieir country, and upon their refusal fell upon the Ilurons with u furceof Jj( warriors, devastated the island, and killed 72 of the unfortunate Christians. Two tribes were compelled soon afU't to surrender and be led as captiv(\'< into the Irotitiois country, wiiile the Tribe of the ('ord left the island and settled at I^rette. The Isle was overrun by Iroriuois in 1661, and in an action with them at Hiviere Maheu, I)e Lauzon, Seneschal of New France, and all hi;< guards were killed, preferrinjj; to dio fijrhting than to sun-ender and be tortured. Tiio great cross of Argentenay was carried away and iiiiscd in tri- umph at the Iroquois village on Lake Onondaga (New York). For nearly a century the Isle enjoyed peace and prosperity, until it had 2,0'M) in- habitants with 5,000 cattle and rich and productive farms. Then came the advance of Wolfe's fleet ; the inhabitants all fled to Charlesb(mrg ; the unavailing Krt'nch troops and artilU^ry left these shores ; Wolfe's troops landed at St. Laurent, and erected camps, forts, and hospitals on the S E. point ; and soon afterward the Brit- ish forces systematically ravaged the deserted country, burning nearly every house on the Isle, and destroying the orchards. The Isle is now divided into two seigniories, or lordships, whose revenues and titles are vested in ancient French fniiilics of Quebec. The soil is rich and di- versified, and its pretty vistas justify ('harlevo x"s sketch (of 1720): " \V(> took a stroll on the Isle of Orl( ans, whose ciiltivated fields extend around like a broad am- phitheatre, and gracefully end the view on every ^ide. I have found this country beautiful, the soil good, and the inhabitants very much at their ea.«e." The agri- cultural interest is now declining, owing to the antique and unprogn'ssive ideas of the farmers, who confine themselves to small an-as and neglect alternation of crops. The farms are celebrated for their excellent potatoes, jiliuns, appies, and for a rare and delicious variety of small cheeses. The people are temperate, geiierou.'?, and hospitable, and, by reason of their insular position, still pre.>^erve the primitive Norman customs of the early settlers under Champlain and Frontena'. The Isle and the adjacent shore of Beauprdhave been called the nursery of (Canada, so many have been the emigrants from these swarming hives who have settled in other parts of the Provinces. St. Pierre is the village nenrest to Quebec (9 M.), and is reached by ferry-steamers, which also run to BeauUtu. It has about 700 inhabitant.s, and is beautifully situated nearly opposite the Montmorenci Kalis and Ange Gardien. The first chiipel was erected here in 1651 by P^re Lale- mant, and was used by the Hurons and French in common. In 1769 the present church of St. Pierre was erected. On this shore, in 1825, were built the colossal timber-ships, the Columbus, 3,700 tons, jind the Baron Renfrew^ 3,000 tons, the largest vessels that the world had seen up to that time. The convent of St. Famille was founded in 1685, b}' the Sisters of the Congregation, and since that time the good nuns have educiited the girls of the village, liaving generally about 70 in the institution. The nunnery is seen near the church, and was built in 1699, having received additions from time to time as the village increased. Its cellar is divided into nar- row and contracted cells, whose design has l)een long forgotten. The woodwork of the convent was burned by Wolfe's foragers in 1759, but was restored in 1761, after the Conquest of Canada. The first church of St. Famille was built in 1671, and the present church dates from 1745. The 13 8 i 290 Route?!. ST. LAURENT D'ORLEANS. ' ii village is nearly opposite Chateau Richer, and commands fine views of the Laurentian Mts. The Parish of St. Frant^ois inchides the domain of the ancient fief of Argentenay, and was fonncd in 1G78. In 1G83 the first church was budt, and the present church dates from 173G, and was phmdered by Wolfe's troops in 1759. The view from the church is very beautiful, and includes the St. Lawrence to the horizon, tlie white villages of the S. coast, and the isles of Madame, Gro.vse, and Keaux. On the N. shore, at the end of the island, are the broad meadows of Argentenay, where wild-fowl and other game are sought by the sportsmen of Quebec. This district looks across the N. Channel upon the dark and imposing ridges of the St. Anne Mts. and the peaks of St. Fer^ol ; and the view from the church is yet more exten- sive and beautiful. The church of St. John was built in 1735, near the site of a chapel dating from 1675, and contemporary with the hamlet. This parish is famous for the number of skilful river-pilots which it has furnished. It has about 1,300 inhabitants, and is the most important parish on the island. It is nearly opposite the S. shore vdlage of St. Michel (see page 254). St. Laurent is 7 M. from St. Jean, upon the well-settled royal road. The parish is entered after crossing the Kiviere Maheu, where the Seneschal of New France fell in battle. The Church of St. Laurent is a stately edifice of cut stone with a shining tin roof, and is 113 ft. in length. It re- placed churches of 1675 and 1697, and was consecrated in 1861. The Boute des Pretres ilms N. from St. Laurent to St. Pierre, and was so named 60 years ago, when this church had a piece of St. Paul's arm-bone, which ■was taken away to St. Pierre, and thence was stolen at night by the St. Laurent people. After long controversj', the Bishop of Quebec ordered that each church should restore to the other its own relics, which was done along this road by large processions, the relics being exchanged at the great black cross midway on the road Ij^ M. W. of St. Laurent is the celebrated haven called Trou St. Patrice (since 1689), or Patrich'a Hole^ where vessels seek shelter in a storm, or outward-bound ships awa t orders to sail. The river is 1] M. wide here, and there are 10- 12 fathoms of water in the cove. 2 M. W. of this point is the Caverne de Bontentps, a grotto about 20 ft. deep cut in the solid rock near the level of the river. Lizotte^s Hotel, the chief inn on the Isle of Orleans, is at Ste. Petrouille. Many Quebec families have summer-cottages on the island. The Cham- berland House is at St. Jean d' Orleans, QUEBEC TO THE SAGUENAY. Route 72. 291 W9 of the lU fief of ,viis bmlt, y Wolfe's 1 includes t, and the end of the and other oks across e Mts. and lore exten- if a chapel 5 parish is nished. It I tlic island. ' 254). royal road. le Seneschal is a stately igth. It re- 1861. The as so named •bone, which t by the St. ■bee ordered which was xchanged at t. Laurent is or Patrick's ships awa t - 12 fathoms de Bontemps, of the river, e. Petrouille. The Chain- 72. Quebec to Gaconna and ihe Sagnenay River.— The North Shore of the St. Lawrence. Chans^es oftimr. tnkf. pi are from season to sfason. The intevrlins; traeelln should write to the liirhelieit 4* Ontario Navigation Co., Montreal, for lati-sl time-tahles. In Rummer, the steamboats leave Quebec four times a week, uHually on Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday, at 7 a. m. They call at Murmy Baj, Kividre du Loup (Cacouna), Tadousao, Ila Ha Bay, at d Ohicoutimi. DlHtHUceH. — Quebec to St. Laurent, 12 M. ; l^t. John (Orleans),!"; Isle Ma- dame, 23; Cape Tourmente,28; St. Fran<;;ois Xavier, 45; St. Paul's Bay, 65 ; Les' Kboulements, 06 ; Murray Bay, 82 ; Riviere Du Loup, 112 (Gscouna, 118) ; Tadousac, 134 (Ohicoutimi, 235) The S. shore is a golden transparencv bv tlie sunshine, — alt<'rnatinn helts of atmospheric effect, wliicli t'reatlv increased "their beautv. Indeed, all of us who saw the I^)wer St. I^awrence for tlie first time were surprised by the imposing character of its scenery." (IJayard Taylor.) Beyond Abntti.s nnd the liigh clifTs of Cape Miiilhird the stcniuor pn.««pes the populous vilhige of St. Fran^n's Xavier, extending up the valley of the Bouchard River. On the S. a long line of picturesque islets is ])assed (see page 254). Beyond Capo Lahaie the steamer lies to oil" St. J'aul's Bay, whose unique and beautiful scenery is seen from the deck. St. Paul's Bay (two small inns) is a parish of 4,000 inhabitants, situ- ated amid the grandest scenery of the N. shore. The j)eople are all Frei ch, nnd the village is clustered about the church and convent near the GonfTre River. In the vicinity are found iron, plumbago, limestone, garnet-rock, nnd curious saline and sulphurous springs. It is claimed that "no parish offers fio much of interest to the tourist, the poet, or tl:e naturalist." The wild and turbulent streams that sweep down the valley have carried away all the bridges which have been erected by the people. The summer boarding-houses at St. Paul's Bay are kept by Joseph Cimon and Joseph Duchene. The vistas up the valleys of the Oouffre nnd the Moulin Rivers show distant ranges of picturesque blue mountains, with groujis of conical Alpine jwaks. In 1791 it is claimed that the .shores of the bay were shaken by eartluiuakes for many days, after which one of the peaks to the N. belched forth great volumes of smoke and passed into the volcanic state, emitting columns of tlame through several days. The peaks are bare and white, with sharp precipices near the sunnnit. The valley of the Oouffre has been likened to the Vale of (Mwyd, in Wales, and is traversed by a fiiir road along the r. bank of the rapid river. 10 - 12 M. from the bay are the ex- tensive deposits of magnetic iron-ore whic.'i were explored by order of Intendant Talon, a cen#lry and a half ago. In the npper part of tlit> valley, 9 M. from St. Paul's Bay, is St. Urbain, a French Catholic village of about 1,000 inhabitants. IJy this route tlie tri-weekly Royal mail-stages ero.^-s to Chieoutinii,on the upper Sague- nay (see page 300). St. Placvle (Clairvaux) is also back of St. Paurr Bay, and has 400 Inhabitants. " In all the miles of country I had pas.sed over, I had seen nothing to equal the exquisite beauty of the Vale of Bale St. Paul. From the hill on which we stood, the whole valley, of many miles in extent, was visible. It was perfectly level, and covered from end to end with little hauilet.s, and .several churches, with here and there a few small patches of forest Like' the Happy Valley of Rasselas, it was surrounded by the most wild and rugged mountains, which ro.'^e in endless succes- sion one behind the other, stretching away in the distance, till they resembled a faint blue wave in the horizon." (Rai.l.vxtvnk. " Nothing can be more pictun>sque tlian the land.scapc which may be viewed from the crest of Cap an Corbeavi Have you courage to clamber uj) the long slopes of Cap au Corbeau ; to see the white-sailed schooners at the entrance of the bay ; to comprehend the thousand divers objects at your feet ; the sinuous course of the Mar^ and of the serpentine Gouffh; ; on the S. the old mansions and rich pas- tures ; to see the church and convent and the village, the Cap iV la Rey, the bottom of the bay ; and, farther away, the shores of St. Antoine Perou, St. Jerome, St. John, St. Joseph, and St. Flavien ? "' (Trudelle.) The Bay was settled early in the 17th century, and has always been noted for its (( Tadousao »e French Normans lore. The anrt dark u V by the nsVd their time were or passes ley of the is ])iisse(l St. Taul's iiiits, pUu- ill Frei ch, lie Gonffre .met-rock, ' no parish ist." The rried away le summer and Joseph ISLE AUX C0UDRE3. JloHte 79. 293 [how distant Iks In 1T91 • many days, )f smoke and al days. The nie valley of aversod by a ly are the ex- of Intendant i) M. from St. abitants. By upper Sague- Uay.and has J to eqvial the ich we stood, •tly level, and kith here and .asseUis, it was ■ndU'SS succes- rcsembled a )e viewed from .ong slopes of )f the bay ; to course of the and rich pas- ;y , the bottom t.' Jerome, St. 3n noted for its earthquakes and volcanic disturbances. In Octob<>r, 1870, it felt such a severe Rhnck that nearly every house in the valley was damaged. In 17r)9 the viilaKo waa destroyed by Oorhanrs N<>w-Kn^lanil llangi'rs, attcr tli(t inhabituntM had defended It for two hourH. " Above the (lulph I have just mentioned is tlui Hay t<*h families brought out by Fra.ser and Nairn are now French in language and customs. A depot for American pri.r. up the river arc the famous * RivikrcMlu-Loup F(dls, near the new and massive bridge of the Intercolonial Railway. Tiie stream hero plunges over a cliff about 80 ft. high, and then rests quietly in a broad pool below. The views of the river and its islands and shipping, from tho streets of the village, aro broad and beautiful; anil many summer visitors pass their vacations here, finding comfortable accommodations in tho boarding-houses. The Temiscouata road runs S. K. from this point into New Briinswick. cross- ing numerous trout-streams and leading through a «leso!ate region of hills. Its first point of interest is the long Tmniscouata Luke (see page 68). lUvi^redu Loup will soon be one of the chief railway -<'entr«8 of Canada. It has been the E. terminus of the Uraud Trunk lino fur years. The lotercolonial is now I 'I 296 Route 72. CACOUNA. well and surely completed from this point to St. John and Halifax, and the New- Brunswick Railway has ucuu pushed hitherward up the St. John Valley (see page 63). This domain was jjrantcd by the Compagnie des Tndes Oceidentales to the Sieur de la Chesnoye in 1673. It is said that its name is derived from tlie fact that in former years great droves of ^eals {loup.s-warins) frequented the shoals at the mouth of the river, making a remarkable uproar at night. A persistent attempt has been made to oall this town FraserviUf , in honor of the Frasers, who are its reigniors The numerous Frasers of this Province met at Quebec in 186h to re-forr. their ancient Scottish clan organization, and to name Provincial, county, and parish chieftains. The head-chief is entitled The Fraser, and is the Hon. John Fraser de Kerry, " 68th descendant of Jules de Kerry, a rich and powerful lord, who gave a sumptuous feast to the Emperor Charlemagne and his numerous suite, at his castle in Normandy, in the 8th century *' The solemn Scots maintain that De Kerry then regaled Charlemagne with strsiwberries {/raises, in the French language), and that the Emperor was so greatly pleased that he ordered that he shouhl thenceforth be known as Fraiser de Berry, and from him the Clan Fraser traces its name and descent. Cacouna is 6 M. from Rivl6re dii Loup, and is the chief summer resort of Canada. The * St. Lawrence Hall is the most fasliiouable hotel, and accommodates 600 guests, at $2.50-3 a day. Tlie Mansion House charges $1.50 a day, and accommodates 150 guests. There are several summer boarding-houses whose rates are still lower. The traveller who visits Cacouna from Hiviere du Loup must be on his guard against the extortions of the carriage-drivrrs, who frequently demand exorbitant fares. Twenty years ago Cacouna was nothing; it is now filled with great ho- tels and boarding-houses, and adorned with many summer cottages. It is visited by thousands of Canadians, and also by many Americans "fuyant le ciel corrosif de New- York." Here may be seen tfce Anglo-Canadian girls, who are said to combine the physical beauty and strength of the Enfflish ladies with the vivacity and brilliancv of the Americans. The amusements of the village are like those of similar places farther S., — sea-bathing and fishirg, driving, and balls which extend into the .small hours. The beach is good, and the river-views from the heights are of famed beauty. There is a pretty lake back among the hills, where many trout are found. The great specialties of Cacouna are its pure cool air and brilliant north- ern scenery. It is sometimes found too 'cold, even in August, during rainy weather, for the American visitors, who then Imrrv away in crowds. The peninsula of Cacouna is a rcinarkablo mass of rock, nearly 400 ft. high, which is connected with the mainland by a low isthmus. Its name was given by the Imlians, in allusion to its form, and signifies "the tur- tle." The village is French, and has 700 inhabitants, and Anglican, Meth- odist, and lionum (Jatholic churches. 4^ M. distant is tlie populous jjurish of ^'^ Aniney and 8 M. S. is ^7. Modiste. trom Kiviere du Loup the stcatner runs across to the Saguenay River, passing within 3-4 M- of Cacouna, and ruuuiug between the lirandy Pots (1.) and Red Island (see page 252). The Sagueaay Biver, t>eu Route 73. t^' .->o' ,*»1 Ni- 'd he New- lee page ie Sieur that in e mouth r of the met iit to name Frat^er, y, a rich (rne and K solemn {/raises, that he him the ;r resort )tel, mid cliurKCS summer o visits ttortions jreiit ho- es. It is "fuyant Cnnadian :th of the ms. The her S.,— the small lits are of lere many ant north- st, (luring n crowds, rly 400 ft. Its name "the tur- tan, Metli- uus jmrish lay River, randy Pots ^ OF THE ^ f SAGUENAY RIVERS -h/LJ^-S>^ OV TMAT PART or TBB MUmm TKArSXaBD 31 r thm SAGUENAY BOATS. .14! il m ^'ff^tW'??S*?/.'¥ff2J^:i:Kf'.' M«-*j«i».*«r.j**»...f IM4' :r;*.>''»flrv-f-M •.■■■-■ ■»/-^flf^^^■ /, **^**"jh-^*. .^W W »I W 1 I l^ !«*■ 7' .1 T:r\ ■•*. «it -^w ^ -r. -»,' j ii« <>tijr < ,. ~ - aaf 'A / J ♦ I ^ i I ^ ) / / / V z' ll / . I i i'j" k THE SAGUENAY RIVER. Route 73. 297 73. The Sagnenay River. Steamers leaTe Quebec for Chicoutimi, the farthest port on the Saguenay, on Tuesday and Friday, at 7 A M. (see page 291) : and for lla ILi Bay on Wednesday, Thursday, and Saturday. They reach Tadousac by nightfall, and start on the re- turn from Chicoutimi the next morning. Dlstanceg. — Quebec to Tadousac, 134 M. ; Tadousac to Rivii'-re St. Marguerite, 15; St. Louis Islets, 19; Riviere aux Canards, 23; Little ."^a^uenay River, 27; St. John's Bay, 32 ; Eternity Hay. 41 ; Trinity Bay, 48 ; Cape Rouge, r)6 ; Cape Ejist, 63; Capt? West, 65 ; St. Alphonse, 72 ; St. Fulgence, 95: Chicuutinii, 1(X). This itinerary is bailed on that of the stonnship company and is not correct, but will be u.^eful in marking approximations to the relative distances lietween the points on the river. There is no other tiible of distances accessible. lniray"s Sailing Direc- tions (precise authority ) says that it is tio M. from the St. Ijawrcnce to Chicoutimi. The ** Saguenay Biver is the chief tributary of the Lower St. Law- rence, and is the outlet of the great Lake St. .loiin, into which 11 rivers fall. For the last 60 M. of its course the stream is from 1 to 2^ M. wide, and is bordered on both sides by lofty precipices of syenite and gneiss, which impinge directly on the shores, and are dotted with stunted trees. Along their slopes are the deep I'nes of glacial striations, telling of the passage of formidable icebergs down this chasm. The bed of the river is 100 fathoms lower than that of the St. Lawrence, a difterence which is sharply marked at the point of confluence. The shores were stripped of their forests by a great fire, in 1810, but there are large numbers of hemlock and birch trees in the neighboring glens. The river is frozen from the St. Louis Isles to Chicoutimi during half the year, and snow remains on the hills until June. The awful majesty of its unbroken mountain-shores, the profound depth of its waters, the absence of life through many leagues of distance, have made the Saguenay unique among rivers, and it is yearly visited by thousands of tourists as one of the chief curiosities of the West- ern World. " The Saguenay is not, properly, a river. It h a tremendous chasm, like that of the Jordan Valley and the Dead Sea, cleft for 60 M through the heart of a mounUin wilderness No magical illusions of atmosph<'re enwrap the scenery of this northern river. Everything is hard, naked, stern, silent. Dark-gray cliffs of granitic gneiss rise f^'Oin tl»e pitch-black water ; firs of gloomy green are rooted in th, raw, nge in the ilation. It , and looks jund peems the wildest and grand nd nionoto- to get impar vt-ry name, ny thing, in ityx,-they )icnic on tue . " {^London r^with three uceiidiug the , who live »n bv Roherval nnitry of the 1 K 03 Tadou- n their canoes mn and beau- lich is seen 5 council of the ■uniore Auadar ral grave and around. The the river, and ,1 of the Ksqui- cossor, and the v , or has with- Ver is a modin- 11 river whose uiuled the nils- V ill tors in the Druillettes and Dablou had ascended the river to Lake St. John and there had baptized many Tn- dianfl, and founded the misHion of St. Fran(^oi.s Xtivier. The Montai^^nais are still in the Catholic faith, and each family has its prajer-hook and breviary, in which they are able to read. In 1671 Father Albanel ascended the Saguenay from Tadou- sac, by order of Intendant Bigot, and passed N. to IIudson'.s Bay by way of the great lakes of St. John and Miatassini. The country about the Up|wr S;igupiiay was then well known to the zealous churchmen, but after the decline of the missions it was forgotten. About 60 years ago the Canadian government had it re-explored by efficient officers, and this remote region is now being occupied by French-CJanadian hamlets. The chief business on the river is the exportation of lumt)er, which is shipped from Chicoutimi in immense quantities. Tadousao is a small village, prettily situated on a semicircular terrace suiTounded with mountains and fronting on a small liarbor, deep and secure. The St. Lawrence is here about 24 M. wide, and the mountains of the S. shore are visible, while on clear days the view includes the white villages of Cacouna and Riviere du Loup. The * Taclousnc Hotel ($2.50 a day) is a spacious establishment on the blurt' over the bcjich. It was founded in 1865 by a joint-stock company, and has been successful. The sea-bathing is very good, although the water is cold, and sea-trout are caught off the shore. The old buildings of the Hudson's Bay Company are near the hotel, and on the lawn before them is a battery of antiquated 4-pounders. E. of the hotel is the old * ciiapel of the Jesuit mission, which was erected in 1746 on ne s'te of a still more ancient church. The summer cottages are near the shore, and are cheerful little buildings. The Earl of Dnfferin, late Govornnr-Geufral of Canada, erected a handsome house here. The scenery of the landward environs is described in the Indian word Tadousac, which means knobs or mamelons. *' Tadousac is placed, like a nest, in the midst of the granite rocks that surround the mouth of the Saguenay. The chapels and the buildings of the post occupy the edge of a pretty plateau, on the summit of an escarped height Ho perched, tiiese edifices dominate the narrow strip of fine sand svhich sweeps around at their feet. On the r. the view plunges into the profound waters of the .«oiubre Saguenay ; in front, it is lost in the immense St. Lawrence. All around are mountains covered with fir-trees and birches. Through the opening which the mighty river has cut through the rock, the reefs, the islands, and south shores are seen. It is a delicious place " (Tache.) 4 M. E. of Tadousac is the harbor of Moulin d Baur/e, where are large beds of wliite marble. Charlevoix anchored here in the Chameau (in 17(X)), and was so en- thusiastic over the discovery that he reported that " all this country is full of mar- ble." Pointe Rouge, the S. E. promontory before Tadousac, is coniposed of an in- ten.'^ely hard red granite The shore extends to the N. E. to the famous shooting- grounds of Mille Vache8,the trout-stream of the Laval lUver, and the Hudson's Bay post of Betsiamitis (see page 233). In the year 1599 a trading-post was established at Tudousac by Pontgrav«5 and Chauvin,to whom this country had l)een granti'd. They built storehouses and huts, and left 16 men to gather in the furs from the Indians, but sevenil of the^e died and the rest fled into the forest. Two subsequent attempts within a few years ended as disjistrously. In 1628 the pla<*e wim captun'd by Admiral Kirke, ami in 1>)32 his brother died here. In 1658 the lordship of this district, was given to the Sieur De- maux, with the dominion over the country between Eboulciiients and CajK! Cor- niorant. Three years later the place was captured by the Irocniois, and the garrison was massacred. In 1690 three French frigiifcs, iKNiring tin- mval treisnre to Quebec, were chased in here by Sir William I'hippss New-England Hect. They formed bat- teries CD the Tadousac i^bores, but the Americans were unable to get their vessels \H I n 300 RouU 73. I i in I i I ! CHICOUTIMI. up through the iwift currentA, and the French fleet wm gaved. The trading-pott and misHlon were kept up with advantage. Charlevoix visited the place in 1720, and Miys: " The greatest Part of our (Jeographt-rs have here placed a Town, but where there never was but one Frenrh hnuf^e and some huts of Savages who came there in the Time of the Trade and who carried awa\ their Huts or Hooths, when they went away ; and this was the whole matter. It is true that this I'ort has been a long Time the Resort of all the Savage Nations of the North and East, and that the French resorted thither as soon as the Navigjition was free both from Prance and Canada ; the Missionaries also made Use of the Opportunity, and came to trade here for Heaven. And when the Trade was over, the Merchants returned to their Homes, the Savap s took the Way to their Villages or Forests, and the Gospel Labourers fol- lowed tlie last, to compleat their Instructions." The steamer leaves Tadousac during the evening, and ascends tlie river by night, when, if the sky is unclouded, there are beautiful effects of star- light or moonlight on the frowning shores. The return trip down the river is made the next day, and the full power of the scenery is then felt. This description of the river begins, therefore, at the head of navigation, and follows the river downward, detaching the detour into Ha Ha Bay, for the sake of continuity. Chicoutimi (good hotel) is the capital of rhicoutimi County, and has 2,30( inhabitants. It is situated at the head of navigation on the Saguenay, and is the great shipping-point of the lumber districts. Over 40 ships load here every year, most of them being squarely built Scandinavian vessels. The trado amoiaits to ^ 500,000 a vear, and is under the control of Senator Price of Qiiobco, who has fine villas at Chicoutimi and Tadousac, and is known as ' the King of the Saguenay." The powerful house of Price Brothers (S: Co. owns most of the Saguenay country, and has estab- lishments on the Lower St. Lawrence and in England. Their property in mills, buildings, and vessels is of immense value. Over the steamboat- pier is the new college, built of stone, about an open quadrangle. Near by are the cathedral and the convent of the Good Shepherd. Beyond the town the court-house is seen, cm the dark slope of a high hill; and the white ribbon of the * Chicoutimi FnJh is visible to the 1. The Chicoutimi River here falls 40 - 50 ft., lust before entering the Saguenay. This stream affords fine sport for the fisherman, and eontains great numbers of fish re- sembling the land-locked salmon, or grilse. Chicoutimi signifies " deep water,*' and was so called by the Northern Indians who here first encountered the profound depths of the Saguenay. There is fine fishing about the falls and the adjax^ent rapids (permission must l)e obtained, and is often granted in courtesy to strangers). Tiie ancient .lesuit chapel and the Hudson's Bay Company's post were situated near the coiitiu( m'e of the two rivers, and within tlie chapel (whicli remained until recently) was the tomb of Father Cccquart, the last of the Jesuit missionaries. A strong mi-ision was founded here in 1727, by Father Labrosse, and many Indians were converted. iSt. Anne du Saguenay is a village of 200 inhabitants, on the high bank of the river opposite Chicoutimi. Lake St. John is about 60 M. W. of Chicoutimi, and is reached by a good road, which passes through Jon- qul^re, Kenogami, and Hebertville (1,200 inhabitants). The Rapids of Terres Eumpues^ on the Saguenay River, are 9 M. above Chicoutimi. I S 1: * In is of rl the rij villa point i| dark St. Ft walls bank. East ai tween So brol explor^ name LAKE ST. JOHN. Route 73. 801 tradlng-poit in 1720, and J, but where line there in »n tliey went been a long ind thut the France and to trade here their Homes, iabourers fol- ids the river fects of star- wn the river nfelt. This fifiation, and Bav, for the nty, an*U d on in the , — the latter a bushel, •each village, a the pier to the Eivwre a be bought or , are the three Tlie mail-road aerncss of the y2). r Bun shone vrajm '.iscape. The bay tv Sht. on one i about the road .-c\»d pphe of tj itainous top, an J aid stained vith L bold caP<;8 f- 1 tlie Little Ua Ija l-lhebluevef^of Lep from Lake St. pe to Chicoutunl is seen on the 1., Id cutting off the Ve shores on both Us on either shore l\ a curve, and it fered the St. Lavr- The hills rise ^s them, it i« ^«* Iching Cape Rouge Ihe 15., deriving its Avere starving, m descended to the On the r. bank Is * Le Tableau, a clifT 900 ft. high, wliose riverward face contains u broad sheet of diirk litnestoiiu, 600 X 300 ft. in area, so smooth and straigiit as to suggest a vast canvas prepared fur a picture. Still further down (r. bank) is "* Statue Point, where, at about 1,000 feet above the water, a huge, rough Gothic arcii gives entrance to a cave, in whlcli, as yet, the foot of man has never trodden. Before the entrance to this black a|)erture, a gigiuitic rock, like the statue of some dead Titan, once stood. A few years ago, during the winter, It gave way, and the monstrous statue came crasiiiiig down through the ice of the Sagucnay, and left bare to view the entrance to the cavern it had gujinlcd i)erhaps for ages." The steamer soon passes Cape Trinity on the r. bank, and runs in close to ** Eternity Bay, wliich is a narrow cove between the majestic clilfs of Cape Trinity and Cape Eternity. The water is 150 fathoms deep, and the clitTs descend abruptly into its profoundest parts. * Cape Trinity consists of three vast superimposed precipices, each of which is 6-600 ft. high, on whose faces are seen two remarkable profiles. The echo in the bay is wonderful, and is usually tested by discharging a gun or blow- ing a whistle. (In recent maps and descrlj)tions tlie name of Kternity has been given to the N, cape, and Trinity to the otl:er. This is not correct, for the N. cape was named Jm Trinite by the Jesuits on account of its union of three vast sections into one liiountain. It is known by that name among the old pilots and river-people. The Editor has substituted the correct names in the ensuing quotations.) " The masterpiece of the Saguenay Is the majesty of its two grandest bulwarks, — Cape Trinity and Cape Eternity, — enornious niasssoa of rock, 1,5(X) feet high, rising sheer out of the black water, and jutting forward into it so as to shelter a lit- tle bay of the river between their gloomy portals. In the subliuiity of their height and steepness, and in the beautiful effect against the rock of the pine-trees which here and there gain a dizzy fott'ioki, nestling trustfully into every hollow on the face of the tremendous precipice, these capes can hardly be surpassed by any river- scene in the world." (WniTr:.) "Suddenly the boat rounded the corner of the three steps, each 500 ft. high, in which Cape Trinity climbs from the river, and crept in under the naked side of the awful cliff. It is sheer rock, springing from the black water, and stretcliing upward with a weary, effort-like aspect, in long impulses of stone marked by deep seams from space to space, till, 1,500 ft. in air, its vast hrow beelo\<* High up, on its rough gray brows, a few stunted pines show like bristles their scathed white arms, giving an awful weird asjKM't to the mass, blanched here ami thei-e by the temiK'sts of ages, stained and discolored by little waterfiUs in blotchy and decaying spots. Unlike Niagara, and all other of (lod's great works in nature, one does not wish for silence or soli- tude here. (Companionship becomes do. biy nece.ssar} in an awful solitude like this." (London Tinif$.^ When the Flyins; Fish ascended the river with the I'rince of Wales and his suite, one of her heavy »)8-pounders was fired off near Cape Trinity. " For the space of half a minute or so after the discharge there wjis a dead silence, and then, as if the report and concussivMi were hurled back upon the decks, the echoes came down crash upon cra^h. It .^eemed as if the nx'ks and crags had all sprung into life under the tre- mendous din, and as if ea<*h was firing (}8-pounders full upon us, in sharp, crushing Tolleys,till at last they grew hoiirserand hoarder in their anger, and retreated, bellow- ing slowly, carrying the tale of invaded solitude from hill to hill, till all the distant mountains seemed to roar and groan at the intrusion." St. John's Bay (r. bank) is G M. below Eternity Bay, and is shallow enough to aflbrd an anchornpe for shipping. It is 2 AI wide and 3 M. lonpif, and receives the St. John River. At its end is a small hamlet, situated in a narrow valley which appears beautiful in contrast with the surrounding cliffs. Far inliuul are seen the blue peaks of distant mountains. In the little cove opposite is the white tiiread of a lofty cascade. The Little Sagnenny River (r. bank) is 4 M. below, and flows down out of a bristling wilderness where are famous Indian huntipg-grounds and pools nlled with trout. A short distance below are the islets at the mouth of the Riviere aux Canards. The steamer then sweeps by the St. Louis Isle, a granite rock, ^ M. long, covered with firs, spruces, and birch-trees. There is 1,200 ft. depth of water around this islet, in which are multitudes of salmon-trout. On the r. bank are the ujassive promontories of Cape Victoria and Cape George. The •retrospect from this point affords one of the grandest views on the river. 2 M. below (1. bank) is seen the inter- '• It c| whleh is wpentsL Swedish) were ne{ led and a§- ancf.) soaring into Old covered ,„er virture dun-colored -cut din'ctly eptward, the rer the dark rVjt bank be- ' iiothini? < an ijjped chnrjio- y between the igh not viih, :i\]w Ktcrnlty htirandbh-oh iiUv where the * like strips of il is the reverse the weaknet'S it nutli defornilty is respect froni lore tliiin 1/)W beneath it, and p blaek stream xf}i gray brows, riving an a^'"l of ages, stained Uniike TSiagaTR, T silence or soU- litudc like this." es and his suite, the space of hall , as if the report lowii crash upon ft. under the tre- , sharp, crushing retreated, bellow- ill all the distant ftiul is shallow unci 3 M. long, iilet, situated in t\io surrounding iutains. In the flows down out Irig-grounds and lets at the mouth )y the St. Louis /and birch-treiis. 'h are muititudes outories of Cape point affords one 18 seen the Inter- QUEBEC TO MONTREAL. noHte7l 305 vales of the St. Marguerite River, the chief tributary of tlie Sapuenay, de- scending from a lake far N. of Chicouthni, an 1 famous for its saltnoii-fisher- ies (leased). It is a swift stream, flecked witli rapids, but is navigable for 20 M. by canoes; and flows from a valuable region of liard-wfKjd trees. There are huts along tiic strand at its mouth, and vessels are usually seen at an- chor here; while far inland arc bare and rugged ridges. The tall promon- tory beyond this river is seamed with remarkable trap-e> i I 306 Route 74. ST. AUGUSTIN. {>riinitiTe in their ways, tenaciou.4ly retaining tli« Gatliolic faith and the French anguage and customs. Emery de Caon, Chanipiain's contemporary, told the Hugue- not Kaiiors that " Monscigncur, the Duke de Ventadour (Viceroy), did not wish that they should sing pKuinis in the Great Uiver." When tiie tirst steamboat ascended thi8 river, an old ('aniidian voyagntr exclaimed, in astonu^hment and doubt, "Mais croyez-vous que le bon Dieu permettra tout cela I " As the stearnbo.'it swings out into the stream a fine series of views are afforded, inchiding Quebec and the Ba.sin, tlie bold bluffs of Point Levi, and the dark walls of the Citadel, almost overhead. As the river is as- cended, the villas of Sillery and Cap Houge are seen on the r., and on the 1. are the wharves and villages of South Quebec and New Liverpool, be- vond which are the mouths of the Etchemin and Chaudiere Rivers. St. Auri%itin is on the N. shore, 16 M. above Quebec, atd has a Calvaire, to which many pilgrimages are made, and a statue of the Guardian Angel, erected on a base of cut stone in front of the church, and commemorating the Vatican Council of 1870. Near the village is a ruined church dating from 1720, at whose construction the Devil is said to have assisted, in the furm of a powerful black stallion who hauled in the blocks of stone, until his driver unbridled him at a watering-place, when he vanished in n cloud of sulphur-smoke. In frtmt of St, Augustine the Freuch frigate Atalante surrendered to the Itritish fleet in 1760, after a heroic but hopeless buttle; and in the same waters the steamer Montreal was burned in 1857, aud 200 passeu- gers lost their lives ^ Pointe aux Trembles is 3 M. above St. Augustin (N. shore, and is a ship- building village of 700 inhabitants. Here many of the ladies of Qticbec took refuge during Wolfe's siege (1769), and were captured by his Gren- adiers. Here also the American armies of Arnold and Montgomery united their forces (Dec. 1, 1776) before the disastrous assault on Quebec. Pass- ing the hamlet of St. Antoine de Tilly, on the S. shore, the village of Les Kcureuih is seen on the N., 7 M. above Pointe aux Trembles. This is near the mouth of the Jacques Cartier Biver, famous for its remarkable scenery and for its fine trout-fishing (on the upper waters) On the heights near the mouth of the river was Fort Jacques Cartier, to which 10,000 French troops retreated after the defeat of Montcalm. Nearly a year later (June, 1760) the fort was held by the Marquis d'Albergotti, and was bom- barded and taken by Eraser's Highhuiders. 6 M. above Les Ecureuils is St. Croix (S. shore), a village of 760 in- habitants, with a black nunnery and the public buildings of Lotbinitro County. 3 M. beyond (N. shore) is Portneiif, a prosperous little town witlj paper-mills and a large country trade. This seigniory was granted to M. Le Neuf by the Cent Associ^s in 1647, and was completely deso- lated by the fani'shing French cavalry in 1750. IJcyond this point the scenery becomes less picturesque, and the bold ridges of the Laurentian Mts. sink down into level lov.Iands. Deachambnult (N. shore) has 600 in- habitants, with a trade in lumber and flour. Lotbiniere (S. shore) is a town of 2,600 inhabitants, with a Convent of the Bon Pasteur and two stove-fouudries. GronJines (N. shore) is 8 M. beyond Deschambault, aud THREE RIVERS. Rouu 74. 307 the rrencb the lluguc- ot wish that )at ascended oubt, " Mais f views are Point Levi, river is as- , niKl on tlie iverpool, be- River;*. St. Calvaire, to rdian Angel, nmeniorating )nstruction the who iiauk'd in ulacf, wh»'n he . KreiH'h frigate liopeless battle ; lud 200 passen- t nnd is a siiip- Ues of Quebec \ by liis Grcn- gomery united Juebec. Tass- c village of Les nbles. This is its remarkable On the heights o which 10,000 irly a year later i, and was bora- Uage of 760 in- gfi of Lotbinitro irons little town lory was granted loinpletely deso- ,\ this point the ,f the Laurcntian ;hore) has 600 in- •e (S. shore) is a Pasteur and two eschambault, and has 400 inhabitants; and St. Jean Deschaillom (S. shore) is noted for its brickyards. St. Anne de la Perade (N. shore) has a great church, and is situated at the mouth of the St. Anne River, which is here crossed by a bridge 1,600 ft. long. Beyond St. Pierre les Becquets (S. shore) is the busy little port of i?a^wcan (N. shore), with its two lighthouses; Gentilly (S. shore) has 600 inhabitants and the Convent of the Assumption; and Champlain (N. shore) has 400 inhabitants. Three Rivers {British American Hotel) is a city of 9,000 inhabitants, midway between Quebec and Montreal, and at the head of tide-water on the St. Lawrence River. It was founded in 1618, under the name of Trois Rivieres, and played an important part in th j early history of Canada. The chief buildings are the stately Catholic Cathedral, the Court-House, the Ursuline Convent, St. Joseph's College, and the Kpiscopal and Wes- leyan churches. The city has a bank, 2 Masonic lodges, and 4 semi- weekly and weekly newspapers (2 of which are French). Besides the daily boats of the Richelieu Line, there are 6 steamboats plying from this port to the adjacent river-villages. It is connected with Quebec and Montreal by the Three-Rivers Branch of the (Irand Trunk Railway and by the North-Shore Railway, and has bull' a new line up the St. Mau- rice Valley to Grand Piles. There are large iron- works and machine- shops here, and stoves and car-wheels are made in great numbers from bog-iron ore. The chief industry is the shipment of lumber, which comes down the St. Maurice River. The Canadian government has expended $200,000 in improving the navigation on the St. Maurice, and over $ 1,000,000 has been invested in mills and booms above. The St. Maurice River waters a district of imnncnse (and unknown) extent, abounding in lakes and forests. Portions of this great northern wilderness have been visited by the lumbermen, who conduct rafts to Three Rivers, where the lumber is sawed. About 22 M. above the city are the noble Falls of the Shawanegan^ where the great river plunges over a pei ndicular descent of 150 ft. between the lofty rocks called La Gtarul'' Mere and Le Bonhomine. A few miles above are the Falls of the GrnnW Mire. These falls arc visited by engaging canoes and guides r Three Rivers, while hunting-parties conducted by Canadian voyageurs or Algonquin Indians sometimes pass thence into the remote northern forests in pursuit of the larger varieties of game. The head-waters of tbe St. Maurice are interlocked with those of the Sagutnay. Across the iSt .Maurice is the thriving village of Cap de la Magdelatne ; and on the 8. shore are Becnncoiir, the capital of Nicolet County, and St. An^el tie Laval (Doucett's Landing), the teruiinus of a branch of the Qrand Trunk Railway. The steamer soon enters Lake St. Peter, a shallow widening of the river 22 M. long and 8 M. broad. It has a deep and narrow channel (partly ar- tilicial), which is marked out by buoys and poles, and is used by large vessels. Immense luin.ber-rafts are often seen here, drifting downward like floating islands, and bearing streamers, sails, and the rude huts of ^he lumbermen. In stormy weather on the lake these rafts sometimes come to pieces. The inlets along the low shores afford good duck-shooting; and enormous quantities of eels and pike are taken from the waters. Near the n I fi r Bmmm ( I ( • i I t If : t 1 1 I 1 308 R'jute 74. SOREL. E. end of the lake, at the mouth of the Nicolet River, 8 M. from St. Gre« poire Station, is Kioolet, with 2,500 inhabitants, with a noble college, with its 250 students and attractive parks and gardens. On the N. shore is Riviere du Loup en hmif, or Louiseville, near which are the celebrated St. Leon Springs (»SV. Laipt was made -daily steam- i\nts, situated ult, long time ta. Back of , St. Felix de jr (N. Shore), ilwny, which ito Montcalm for its maple- )), and has 2 •hich is L'As- I inhabitants. Df the Ottawa ving diverged e St. Therese, real(16M. dis- factures many i i . I MONTREAL. Bonsecours Market Post Office Court lioiise . . . ■ Y. M. C. A. Building . St. Ann'n Market . . Military School . . . Dominion Square . , CHURCHES. 10. St. Peter's Cathedral . 11. Notre Dame .... 12. Christ Church Cathe- dral i;?. Gesu (Jesuits.). . . . 14. St. Patrick'H (Cath.) . 1."). American Iti. Trinity ir. Notre Dame de Bonse- cours IH. St. James (Cath.) . . 19. St. Georfje (Epis.) . . 2(). St. Paul (Pres.) . . . 21. Archbishop's Palace . F. :.. K.4. F. 4. C. .•3. D. r>. F. 4. C. 4. C.4. E.r,. D.n. I). ,s. D. 4. B. 4 F. 4 F. .- F. .*{. C. 4. C. 4. C. 4. 4(1. 41. 42. Black Nunnery . . . £. 5. Gray Nunnery ... A. 3. Seni'inary of St. Sulpice E. .'>. Seminars' of Priests . A. 'J. St. Marv's College . . l).:i. McGiUtollfge . . . C. 2. Molson's College . '. II. 4. General Hospital . F,. .'', 4. Hotel Dieu E. 1. Skating Uink . . . . B. .'{. Victoria Square . . . D. 4. Place D'Arnies . . . E. ■"». Viger Square .... F. 4. Champ de Mars . . • F. 4. HOTELS. St. Lawrence Hull . . E. 4. Albion D. .'>. Grand Trunk R. R. Sta- tion C. .">. C. P. R. R. Station . . C. 4. Windsor llotei . . . C. 3. I h..^ tv^f «M« . Black Nunnery 23. Gray Nunnery . 24. Seminary of St. S E.S. A. 3. Sulpice £. 5. 2.5. Seminary of Priests . A. 2. 2(J. St. Mary's College . . D. 3. 27. McGill College . . . C. 2. '2H. Molson's College . •. H.4. 2t). General Hospital . £. fi, 4. .m Hotel Dion E. 1. 31. Skating Rink .... B. 3. 32. Victoria Square . . . D. 4. .V!. Place D'Armes . . . E. 6. .")4. Viger Square .... F. 4. .'ti. Champ de Mars ... F. 4. HOTELS. :r>. St. Lawrence Hall . . E. 4. m. Albion D. .■». 4<). Grand Trunk R. R. Sta- tion C. 41. C. P. R. R. Station . . C 42. Windsor Hotei . . . C. I ta.^ t a JOGSQ ooDor iaam m[]D[^[S"g' ir IDDDDODDflDDDDDL luee St., tor' nier. Vict Victd the and natic Westl r.tcinf quarfl R( Merci St., Mary] MONTREAL. Route 75. 309 carriages. The church is a large and stately building, with two conspicu- ous towers. 1 M. from the village are the celebrnted Varennes Sprinffs^ which are saline in character and possessed of valuable medicinal proper- ties. One of them emits great quantities of carbonated hydrogen gas, and the other yields 2 - 3 gallons a minute, and is much visited by invalids. Arrangements are being made to establish a first-class summer resort at this point. Above Varennes is Bou .etiille, the birthplace of Chief Justice Sir Louis Hippolyte Lafontaine. '' ».e low and marshy islands otT this shore are famous for duck-shooting, and for the ice-dams which form here at the close of the winter. Pointe aux Trembles is to the N., on the Island of Montreal, and is an ancient village dating from 1674. '* We were gliding past Longueuil and Boucherrille on the (left), and Pointe aux Trembles, ' bo called from having been originally covered with aspens,' on the (right). I repeat these names not merely for want of more substantial facts to record, but because they sounded singularly poetic in my ears There certainly was no lie in them. They suggested that some simple and perchance heroic human life might have transpired there." (Thoreau.) Clusterii , villages are now seen on either shore, and the river is strewn with low islant; At 9 M. above Pointe aux Trembles the steamer reaches her pier ai Montreal, with the magnificent Victoria Bridge spanning the river in iront. 75. Montreal Hotels. — * The Windsor, on Dominion Square, in an elevated and quiet part of the city, not far i'rorii the Mount-Koyai Park, is undoubtedly one of the most mag« nificeut hotelH in America. Its uiciiitecture is very imposing, and witaiii it has a splendid frescoed rucuudu, marble scaircjuses, iiu immense diniug-hall, and hun< dred$i of airv and comfortable •♦h'»mber<> wifh imf nnd cold wnter, and all rnnven- iences (13.50-5 a day). The Balmoral is an elegant hotej, erected in 1885-86, with a graystone front 210 ft. long, on Nocre-Dame St. ($2-3 a day). St. Lawrence Hall, 13ii 6t. James St., id a comfortivble hotel in the centre of the city, near the post-oliice and banks. Thu Albion, 141 McUill St., is frequented by country merchants and commercial men. The chi«^f French hote is the Riche- lieu, a well-kept house on St. Vincent St., f 1.5J-2.5U a day. Ilotei-omnibuses meet all trains and boats. Restaurants. — Alexander's, 391 Notre Dame St.; Freeman's, 231 St. James St. ; Compain'rt, 116 St. t"ran9oi8 Xavier St. ; The Bodega, 3 JO Notre Dame St. ; Vic- tor's, 146 St. James St. ; Walker's, 372 Notre Dame St. Clubs. — Metropolitan, on Beaver Ilall ; and St. James, on Dorchester St. Amusements. — Theatre Royal, 19 Cott6 St., open usually during the sum- mer. Operatic and theiitrical entertainments, in winter, at the Academy of Music, Victoria St Lectures are given at the Association Hall, corner of Craig St. and Victoria Square. Ijeotures and other entertainments are also given at the hall of the Mechanics' Institute, 204 St. James St. The Victoria i^kating Kink, Drummond and Dorchester Sts , is famous for its winter carnivals, lacrosse, the Canadian national game, is played at the grounds on Sherbrooke St. We-*! and St. Catherine St. West. Football, cricket, golf, bicycling, fox-hunting, racket, lawn tennis, horse- r icing, tobogganing, snow-shoeing, curling, all have their devotees and their head- quarters T!ic Thistle Rink i.^ near the Crystal Palace. Beadinic- Booms. — Young Men's Christian Association, Victoria Square; Merchants' Exchange. 11 St. Sacrament St. ; .Mechanics' Institute, 204 St. Jamea St.; Instltut Canadlen, 111 Notre Dame St.; Union Catholique (20,000 vols.), St Mary's Church. 310 Route 75, MONTREAL. Post-Office, on St. James St., near St. Franyoia Xavicr St. Telegraph^wxttKi ofRce of the Montreal Telegraph Company, corner of St. Sftcrament and St. Fran9oi8 Xiivier StH. Monetf. — American and British gold and paper money passes at par, but silver is at a discount. Garria8r«H« — (One-horse.) For 1 - 2 persons for 20 minutes, 25 cents; for \ hr., 40 c. ; by the hour, 75 c, and GO o. for each additional hour. For 3-4 per- sons, for 20 minutes, or Ie.s8, 50 c. ; for ,\ hr,. 60 c. ; by the hour, ^ 1, and 75c. for each additional hour. (Two-horse carriiiges.) For 1-2 persons, for ^ hr., or less, 65 c. ; by the hour, $ 1. For 3 - 4 persons, for \ hr. , or less, 75 c. ; by the hour, ^\.US>. Fractions of hours charged y>ro nt/a. The tariff by the hour applies to all rural excursions, for which carriagos are engaged in the city. The legal tariff id augnieuted 50 per cent between midnigiit and 4 a. m. Trunks and boxe.^i, 10 c. each. H(>r8e-carg run across the city on C'raig, Bleury, and St. Catherine Sts. ; also on St. Mary, Notre Dame, and St. Joseph Sts. ; and out St. Lawrence Main St. to St. Jean Raptistc. Railivays. — To Boston by way of St. Albans, Concord, and Ix)well, in 334 M. ; or by way of Fitchburg. in 3i4 M. ; or by the (Canadian Pacific. To New York, by Rutland and Albany, 3d5 M. (by Iial. The Three Rivers runs semi-weekly to Verch^res, Sorel. Maskinonn^, Riviere du Loup en hauf, Yaniachiche, Port St. Francis, Ch implain, ami Tiiree Rivers. The lierthler runs semi-weekly to Repentigny, St. Siilpjoe. Lavaltrie, Lanoraie, and Berthier. The Terrehovve runs daily to Bon- clierville, Vareniies, llout de ri.<»le, Laclienaie, L'As-ioinption, and Terrebonne (24 M.). Ferry steamers cross the river at frequent intervals to La Prairie, St. Lam- bert, and Luugueuil. Montreal, tht metropolis of the Dominion of Canada, and "the Queen of the St. Lawrence," is one of the most beautiful cities on the continent. It is situated on an island (at the confluence of the Ottawa and St. Law- rence Rivers) containing 197 square miles, and which, from its fertility, has been called the Garden of Canada. The St. Lawrence is li| M. wide opposite the city, and the river-front is lined for over 1 M. with lofty and massive walls, quays, and terraces of gray limestone, unequalled else- where in the world, except at Liverpool, Paris, and St. Petersburg. The commercial buildings of the city are generally of stone, in plain and substan- MONTREAL. Route 75. 311 It. Fran9ol8 sses at par, snts; for \ K 3-4 per- ,ml T5c. for hr., or lew, hour,*l'-iB- to all rural la augnieuteu Je St8. -, also Iain St. to St. »U,ln334M.-, New York, by .ec,172M.(in 333 M. (14-^ D«^8aire, Marie- St. Coluinban, t. Lin, St UJP- , BlalnvUle, bt- ur ; Polnte aux ,i, e and the Do- I for Liverpool. Western Lin«f and Liverpool, n and Brazilian. it. John's, New- .obell and Black- elieu Une runs Sevoning trains ttawaUiver The ce and L^ke On- nilton. The M. jt6. The Quebec arlottetown, and Nrcs, OontrerxBur, lilaire, Beloeil. St >klV to Verchferes, Vort St. *'"*"«'?• \n Renentigny, ^^• fun. daily to Bon- and Terrebonne Prairie, St. Lam- and" the Queen 3n the continent, .a and St. Law- irom its fertility, fee is li M. v^ide k with lofty and unequalled else- Ipetersburg. The jlain and substan- tial architecture, and the number of tine pul)lic building is verv large. Three fourths of the impulation are Catholics, most of whom are French, and the bright suburban vilhiges are ahnost entirely inhabite*! by Krenclmien. Altliuugh Montreal is 1)8(J M. from the sc i, it is the port whii;h receives the greater part of the importations to Canada; and its manufacturing interests are extensive and important. The admirable systems of railway and steamboat conimunicatioii which centre here, have nmde it the connuercial emporium of the North; and new lines of tnilHc and internal railways are being built from year to year, binding all the St. Lawrence counties to this city. Montreal forms the Metropolitieal See of the Anglican Church in Canada, and is the capital of a Uoman-Cathollc dioce-e. The water- supply, street-lamps, paving, and lire department are similar to those of American cities of the tirst rank. The population of Montreal was 216,650, at the census of 1891, and there are 60,000 more in the adjacent villages on the island Of the citi- zens, 120,000 are rniich, 22,000 Irish, and 155.000 Roman Catholics. The valuation of real estate is about 5^126,000,000; its imports in 1880, $37,103,869 ; and its exports, ^ 30,221,1)04. In the same year 750 vessels arrived here from the sea, and the customs revenue is $ 10,000,000. The city has \'i banks, 74 churches, and more than 30 newspapers and magazines (in English and French). There are numerous charitable and benevolent organizations, and societies for the English, Scotch, Irish, French, Ger- man, and New-England residents. Victoria Square is a public ground at the intersection of McGill and St. James Sts., ornamented with a fountain and a bronze statue of Queen Victoria. On its S. side is the elegant Gothic building which per- tains to the Young Men's Christian Association, the oldest society of that name in America. On the lower side of the Square are the stately Albert Bnil(linf/s, devoted to commerce. Passing to the N. E. along St. James St., the visitor sees m-iny fine stores, and the attractive buildings of *Molson's Bank (of Ohio stone and Scotch granite), the Merchants' Bank, the stately new * Post-Oifice, and other svmmetrical and solidiv constructed edifices. This street is the Broadway of Montreal. St. Peter St. runs to the S E. by the stately Caverhill Buildings (of cut limestone in Italian Palazzo architecture) to (S7. Pdul St., the seat of an extensive wholesale trade. Opposite the beautiful Corinthian colonnade of the Bank of Montreal (beyond St. Francois Xavier St, the Wall St. of Montreal) the Place (V Armes is seen. This square was so named because it was the parade- ground of Montg(mierv's American army in 1775. Here is the lofty front of the * Church of Notre Dame, one of the largest churches on the conti- nent, with seats for 8,000 persons on the floor and 2,000 in the galleries. It is 255^ ft. long and 144^ ft. wide, aid has a chancel window of stained glass ! :itl 'I' • A ■ 312 Route 75. MONTREAL. t I • 64 X 32 ft. in size. The interior is brilliantly and theatrically decorated. There are two towers on the front, encli 220 ft. high, and, like the church, in the simplest form of modia»val Gothic architecture. One tower has a chime of bells, and in the other hangs " Gros Bourdon," the largest bell in America, weighing nearly 16 tons. The tower is generally open (fee of 26 c. to the door-keeper), and afl'ords from its summit a noble * view of the city and its environs (especially of the city and river, the Victoria Bridge, and the islands). The suburbs of Laprairie, Longueuil, and St. Lambert, the Lachiiie Rapids, and the blue mountains of Vermont, are seen from this point. Alongside the church is the ancient Seminary of 8f. Suljjice, on the site of the Seminary of 1667, as the church is near the site of the Notre Dame of 1671. The present church was built in 1824-9, and was consecrated by the Bishop of Telmesse in partibus. The semi- nary consists of low and massive buildings, surrounded with gardens and court-yards of spotless neatness. It has 24 priests connected with its various works. " I Boon found my way to the Church of Notre Dame. I saw that it was of (rreat siae and signified something Coming from tlie hurrahing mob and the rattling carriages, we pushed back the listed door of this church, and found ourselves in- stantly in an atmosphere which might be siu*red to thought and religion, if one had any It was a great cave in the midst of a city ; and what were the altars and the tinsel but the sparkling stnlactics, into which you entered in a moment, and where the still atmosphere and the sombre light disposed to serious and profitable thought ? Such a cave at hand, which you can enter any day, is wortli a thousand of our churches which are open only Sundays " (Thoreau.) Fronting on the Place d'Armes are several handsome buildings occu- pied by banks and insurance companies. A short distance to the E., on Notre Dame St., an archway on the r. admits one to the extensive and secluded Convent of the Black Nuns (founded in 1657). Farther on, the • Court House is seen on the 1., — a stately stone building in Ionic architecture (300 X 125 ft.), back of which is the Champ de Mars, or Parade Ground, an open space covering 28,800 square yards, and ample enough for the display of 3,000 troops. The great structure fronting across Craig St. was built for the Dominion Military School, which is now estab- lished at Kingston. The costly and splendid new City Hall is on the E. side of the Champ de Mars. Just beyond the Court House the Jacques Cartier Square opens off Notre Dame St., and is encumbered with a dilapi- dated monument to Nelson (erected ni 1808), and two Russian guns from Sebastojiol. Near the head of this scjuare, in the an lent French Govern- ment building, is the medical school of Laval University. The building dates from 1704, and was the headquarters of the Auicrican generals in 1775-76, and of the British governors until Montreal was decapitalized. By the next side-street (St. Claude) to the r., the *Bon8ecoui8 Mar- ket may be visited. This market is unrivalled in America, sl}^ is built of stone, in quasi-Doric architecture, at a cost of .15 300,000. It is three stories high, has a lofty d' me, and presents an imposing front to the river. MONTREAL. Route 75» 313 icorated. church, ,'er has a gest bell in (fee of * view of ! Victoria I, and St. tnont, are minary of 8 near the n 1824-9, ^ The scml- irdens and 5d with its was of preat I tlie rattling ourselve8 In- n, If one had he altars and nionient, and nil profitable ,h a thousand Idings occu- ,tance to tiie le extensive Farther on, ing in Ionic \de Mars, or L and ample )nting across lis now estab- is on the K. the Jacques |with a dilapi- n guns from nch Govcm- The buiUling n generals in ■capitalized. ^seooui s Mar- , aiji^ is l>"i^* It is three it to the river The curious French costumes and language of the country people who congregate here on niarket-^lays, as well us some |K'cuIiarities of the wnres offered fur sale, render a visit very interesting. Alongside of the market is the lionienmrs Church (uccommodatiug '2,{M) persons), which was built in IG08. A short distance beyond is the Quelu-e railway station, on the site of the extensive Quebec-date Barracks; and the Victoria IMer makes out into the stream towards St. /ftUn's Jslv, formerly a fortified depot of amnmnition and war materitl, which was named by Champlain in honor of his wife. The Isle is now a lovely marine park, with forts and barracks still standing, and is n;atlu'd l)v a ferrv-steamer lin>m Uonsecotn-s Market. To the N., on Craig St., is the attractive Viger Garden, with a small con- servatory and several fountains, fronting on which is Trinity Church (Episcopal), built (»f Montreal stone, in early English (iothic architecture, and accommodating 4.000 jM'rsons. N. of Trinity, and also ot of Mount Royal, in beau- tiful grounds. It was endowed in 181."] and opened in 1821, and has fac- ulties of Arts (!> p'-oCessors), Medicine (10 professors), and Law (8 profes- sors). The ^ledical School is N. of the main building, ami the Museum is worthy of a visit. The Fniversity is under the charge of Dr. J. W. Dawvion (see pap- i:)8).and is the luost nourishing institution of the kuid in Canada. Affiliated with it are the contiguous Presbyterian and Wes- leyan theological collci^es, and the Congregational and Anglican Diocesan colleges. The reservoir for the water-supply «>f Montreal is back of the (Tniversitv. .'i)0 ft. above the river, and hasacipacity of .'Ml, 500,000 gallons. The water is taken from the St. Lawrence, 1\ M. above the Lachine Rapids. A pleasant view of the city may be obtained from this terrace, and on the W. is Ravenscrny, (he mansion of the late Sir Hugh AUaa. The runs t Crand The i^rcht oonverr MONTREAL. Route 75. 315 idorned nave and jUke with ico« of t^fc- A AngeWc e Order of le Trinity, inlon from iifico of St. warance to ,t. Jofeph'8 of whicii is .\s. On the the r is the of Laatrus. ^ es * Cbrist rcUiteclnre 512 ft. long, p, from tlie i24ft. The itains a fine 2d stalls for iustnined by nt Civnjiirutn iMilford, and •osun libniry 11 of Cunivda) r of Civthcnrt » of i:gypt»«n est. Inuther >yal, in beau- luul has fac- |aw (8 profes- Ihe Museum lof Dr. J. ^V. 1, of the kn\d [ian and Wes- luan Diocesan Is back of the L.OOO f^allouB. I the Lachine In \\\\^ terrace, [ugh Alla'i* The ♦ Oreat Seminary of St. Sulpice and the Montreal College are | M. S. W. of the Univernity, and front on the same street (Sherbrooke). They occupy a portion of the broad ecclesiastical domain which is known as the Priests' Farm. The incongruous towers in front of the main build- ing pertained to the ancient college of the 17th century, and were at that time loopholed and held as a part of the defences of the town against the Iroquois Indians. The Seminary is for the education of Roman Catholic priests, and has 4 professors and 112 students. The Montreal College is for the education of Canadian youth, and has 10 ecclesiastics for profes- sors and 260 students. It was founded in 1773 by the Sulpicians, who still remain in charge. The Seminary chapel is worthy of a vi^it, and thr gar- dens about the buildings are said to be the finest in Canada. Sherbrooke St. and the environs of Mount Royal contain many elegant residences. Dorchester St. runs S. W. from Beaver-IIall Square, soon crossing Uni- versity St., on whose r. corners are the High School and the St. .lames Club. This street leads, on the 1., to the Normal and Model Schools; and on the r. to the Natural-History Museum and the Cathedral. Dorchester St. passes on by St. Piuil's Church (1. side) and the Knox Church (r. side) to Dominion Square, which occupies the site of a cemetery. In this vicinity are several fine churches, — the VVesleyan Method'st, a gniceful building in the English Gothic style; the American Presb'-terian, an ex- act copy of the Park Church in Brooklyn, N. Y. ; and St. (ieorge's Church (Episcopal), an elegant edifice in decorated Gothic architecture, with deep transepts, costly stained windows, a timber ro Stt.. It is 300 ft. Idhj? and 225 ft. wide nt the tnin- Beptdi; and is to be Huruiountcd by a stono dome 264) ft. high, supporttMl on 4 pierH (each of which are 36 ft. thick) and 32 ('orinthian cohinius. 4 minor doinrs are to surround this noble piece of architectui'u. The portico is t«) nwmble that of the Roman St. Peter's, 8urmounte«>ls. The exterior walls are very massive, but extremely plain and rough. This building is to supply the place of the (lathedral on ."^t. Denis St., which was burncxl in 1S')2. The design was conceived by Bishop Bourget, who secured the land, and after inspecting numer- ous plans in dilFerent styles, deterndned ti)ulf)us tyf. Ann*s Wavdy toward the great basins of the LnrliitK^ Canal. The *Gray Nunnery is nearly i M. S. W. of Dominion Square, near Dorchester St., and occupies an immense pile of stone buildings. This convent {VlJopital Gin'n'al des Steurs (j rises) was founded in 1747, and •} 316 Ji&uU 75. MONTREAL. Ill I ;: : '■ \ \ contains 202 nuns, 116 on mission, 42 novices and postulants, and over 600 patients. It takes care of aged and infirm men and women, orphans and foundlings, and lias large revenues from landed estates. Over 600 found- lings are received every j'ear, of whom more than seven eighths die, and the remainder are kept in the convent until they reach the ngeof 12 years. Opposite the nunnery is Mont Ste. Marie, a large building which was erected for a Baptist college, but has become a ladies' boarding-school (169 students) under the Congregational Nuns of the Black Nunnery, who have, in the city, 57 schools and 12,000 pupils. This order was founded by Marguerite Bourgoys in 1659. The Nazareth Asylum for the Blind is N. of the Gesii, on St. Cath- erine St., and has also an infant school with over 400 pupils. The chapel is built in a light and delicate form of Romanesque architecture, and is richly decorated and frescoed. On the same s-tever in he luid most cofetly [(the central one 880 ft.), resting on 24 piers of bhie limestono masonry, cemented and iron- riveted, with sharp wedge faces to the down-current. The tubes contain- ing the track are 19 X Hi ft. lUid the bridge is approaclied by abutments 2,600 ft. long and 90 It. wide, wliich, witli the 6,o94 ft. of iron tubing, makes a total length of 9,194 ft. from grade to gnide and over 1^ M. from shore to shore. The bridge was commenced in 1H54, and finished in 1859; it contains 250,000 tons of stone and 8,000 tons of iron, and cost $ U,300,000. There is a beautiful view of the city from the central tube. In the early autumn of 1535 .liujues Cartier heard, from the Indians of Quel)ec. of a greater town far up the rivei. The fearless Hruton chief took 2 boats and 50 men, and ascended the St. I/vwrence to the Iroquois town of IIochela{;a, ocrupyinff the present site of the metropolis of (Canada. " Before tlieni, wnip^>ed in forests painted by the early fn>8ts, rose the ridjjy bacli of tlie Mountain of Montreal, and below, encompassed with its cornfields, l.iy the Indian town," surrounded with triple palisades arranged for defence. The French were admitted withii. the walls and rested on the great public square, where the women surrounded them in curiosity, and the sick and maimed were brought to them to be healed, " as if a g(Ml had come down among them." The warriors sat in grave silence while he read aloud the Passion of our .Saviour (though they understood not a word) ; then presents were given to all thi people, and the French trumpeters sounded a warlike melody. The Indians then guided tlieir guests to the sununit of the adjacent Uiountain, whence scores of leagues of unbroken for«*st were overlooked. Cartier gave to this fair emi- nence the name of Mont Royal, whence is derived the pre-l Dieu) and a college of priests at Mont Royal, and the voices were followed by apparitions of the Virgin and the Saviour. Filled with sacred zeal, and brought together by a singular accident, these men won several nobles of France to aid their cause, then bought the Isle of Mont Kcn.-il, irnd formed the Society of Notre Dame de Montreal. With the Lord of Maisonneuve and 45 associates, in a solemn service held in the Cathedral of Notre Dame d*- I'aris, they con.secrated the i'^land to the Holy Fandly umler the name of" Ville M rie de Montreal " (Feb., hvil). May 18, 1042, .Mai.xonneuve and his people lamled at Mon- treal and raised an altar, l)efore which, when high ma.>4s was cimcluded, the priest said, " You are a grain of mustard-seod that shall ari-^^e and grow until its bninchei overshadow the land. You are few, but your work is the work of God. His smile is on you, and your children shall fill the land." The Hotel Dieu was founded in 1617, and in ii)57 the Sulpicians of Paris established a seminary here. In I(i89, 1,400 Iroijuois Indians stormed the western suburbs, and killed 200 of the in- habitants, and a short time afterwards Col. Schuyler destroyed Montn'al with troopii from New York, leaving only the citadel, which his utmost etforts could not reduce. In 1760 Lord Amherst and 17,000 men captured the city, which then had 4,000 in- habitAnts, and was surrounded by a wall witli 11 redoubts and a cit4idel. In 1776 Kthau Allen attacked Montreal with a handful of Vermonters, and was defeated and captured, with lOJ of his men. Gen. Prescott s«>nt them to Kugland »e hiisfur many years b«H>n steiuly, substintial, and rapid In 1832 the eholeni destroyetl 1,843 (ter.sons, out of a pitpulation of :jO,(M)0 ; and in 1853 a large part of the city was burned. 80 years ago vessels of over 3iK) tons could not reach Montn>al, but a ship-channel has been cleared by the exertions of the mer- chants \^headed by i^ir Hugh Allan), and now the city Is visited regularly by ocean iteauabipi of 4,000 tons, and by tho largest veBtwlH of the uercbuut-muriae. '■' 318 lioHle7C. "AROUxND THE MOUNTAIN." V6. The Environs of llontreal. Montreiil Is ^: ui'.i -^ > ; tiic- S. E. side of i." isinnd of Montreal, wliicli is 2b M. lotij;, lu M. wi''<% and 70 Ivl. ar.iuiid. It is divided into lu par- islu's, and is v ompMsc-d T TerKl? and arable soil, sn|)portin,ir a dense p-'p- ulation. The fiaonce drive i^' that * ''Around the Mountain," ji distance ofl> M. The road passes out h\ the Hotel Dieu and thronjih the suburb of St. Jean M:iptiste (whence a road runs K. to the limestone-quarries at Cote St. Mk'ltii). At MUt-Kiid the carriage turns to the 1, and soon passes the avmue wiiieli leads (to tiio I.) to the Mount Koyal Cenictery. The road ascends to higher grades, and beuutilul views open on the N. and W., including I'J villages, the di- sant shores of the Isle of Jesus, and the bright waters of Lake St. Louis and the Lake of the Two Mountains. On a clear (lay the spires of the Catholic C M. long, and contains the villages of St. Martin, St. Rose de Linui. anti St. Vincent de Paul (near which Is the Provincial Reformatory Prison). Hochelaga is ut the N. K. end of the Montrcul horse'cur line. 1 i LACHINE RAPIDS. Route 76. 319 cal, whicb t(. lU par- dense p"i'- ji Vistnncc the SUl)!!!"!) Kjunrries nt s()(»n \)nsf'es jtery. 'l'l»e K. and W-i a the bright On a clear (.en, scvcrnl Huge of Cote ie.l by 1,200 Bs Neigos in ndons cruci- nee on which i des Neipes. real. On the lie wall of the ). (The usual |,crsons, in a - 4 persons.) ound the bold Uoyond the |:il (.1' the fine ■n the home of ., and is occu- •25 sisters and [Opposite Villa is point to the L and for 4 M. Ibe T^ivlere iles |iives(pu' rapiilj^' Uhonce the dc- v.ured Heart is Opposite Sault hjr, ai\J contains U do I'aul (near Mir line. . ^ It has a good liarbor on the St. Liiwrence, below the Rapid of St. Mnry. There are severo! fine villi's here, and the ♦ Convent of the Sacred Name of Jesuit ud A/ .rn ,„ the ^l^u^^ extenrive monastic institu- tion in Canadf^. Hochelaga is 3 M. ♦\on the Victoria Bridge; and 8-4 M. farther E. is Longve Point, n:'derly and indolent descendants of the Iroquois Indians, who are governed by a council of seven chiefs. The *LachineK'»ptd8may be visited by taking the 5 p. m. train to La- chine, or the I.'IO i*. m. train to St. Anne's (50 cents for the round-trip by Lachine; 80 cents by St. Anne's), where a f^teamer is in waiting by which the tourist returns tlinmgh the rapids to Montreal. After fukini; a pilot from Caughnawa^a, the steamer passi's out. " Suddenly a sceno of wild uratNiea- hu .as upon *he eye. Waves are laHhcd h.tIow Nf-srara, al! < injrlo their sublimity in a sliij^le rapi.it Now paHHing with lightning ^ p<- n' wit.liiu .„ liv.v yanls of rocks, which, did your ^•.^- sel hut touch them, would cdu" ^ hoc tu .ui utUT wri'ck Ijoforc the crash could sound upon the ear; did she » "•;» div-. -^o in the least frf»:n tier "ourse, — llT her head were not kept stnught v . .he course of the rapid, —she would Im^ in. o'^'-r. Hcfore us is an absolute (.rciipico of waff r* ; on every side of it ^ oakcr.^, \\V< dense rtralaD'i: -s, arc thrown high into the ah'. Ere we can take a glance at ; lie •• ;n'^. £':a boat descend.^ tlie v\, 11 of waves and toam like a bird, and in a .second afterward'' you are floating on the calm, unruffled h(>.'«om of ' below til lapids.' "' The steauHT then pa.sse8 under the central arch of the Victoria Bridge (sn^i pago 310), and opens an imposing punorundc *vlew of the city. (Tickets for tl'.<' round- trip cost 5<' c. ; and the tourist gets 6a<"k to Montreal about 9.8i) a. m.) The Beloeil Mountain may be visited in a day by taking the Gr- nd Trunk Kailwny to St. llilairc, wlicncc the niountain is easily ascended, passing a pretty little lake. On this peak (1,400 ft. above the St. Law- rence) the Bi^^liop of Nancy erected an oratory sunnounted by a htige tin- covered cross which was visible for over 30 M. The cn;S8 was blown down, several years ago. The *view from Beltfcil includes a radius of 60 M. ov.?r the fertile and thickly settled plaijis of the St. L;i.vrencc Vsuley, ";vith the blue mou ains of Vermont far away in the S. K. fhe Bi>ucht.viUe Moun- tain m reached from St. Bruno, a station on the Gran ^ Trunk Railway, % . 1 320 Route. 7V. OTTAWA. The Iroquois flimse, on a plateau of the Bela'il Mts., 1,600 high, and near a lake 3 M. urountl, accommodates 400 gnest<, at ^3 a day, S 10-16 a week. It is 2^ M. from St. Hllaire station on the Grand-Trunk lino (25 M. from Montreal). Boating, bathing, billiards, livery stable, fishing, etc. St. Anne (du Bout de tisle) is 21 M. S. W. of Montreal, and may be reached in an hour by the Grand Trunk Railway. It is a village of 1,000 inhabitants, with two inns, and has an ancient church which is much revered by the Canadian boatmen and voyageun. Many of the people of Montreal visit this place during the summer. The village is at some dis- tance from the railway, between Lake St. Louis (of the St. Lawrence) and the Lake of the Two Mountains (of the Ottawa River). The Ottawa if here crossed by a fine railway-bridge, resting on 16 stone piers; and the famous Rapids of St. Anne are flanked by a canal. Here Tom Moore wrote his Canadian Boat-Song, beginning: — ** Faintly aa tolls the evening chime, Our Toices keep tune, and our oars keep time. Soon as the woods on shore look dim We '11 sing at St. Anne's our parting hymn. Row, brothers, row ; the stream runs fast, The Rapids are near, and the daylight 's past. " Uttawa's tide ! this trembling moon Shall see us float o'er thy surges soon. Saint of this green isle ! hear our prayers ; 0, grant us cool heavens and favoring airs ! Blow, breeres, blow ; the stream runs fost, The Rapids are near, and the daylight 's past." Stti&ziers run daily up the Ottawa River to Ottawa ( Russell Hotel), the capital of Canada. The Canadian ** Parliament House is situated on a lofty bluff over the Ottawa River, and is the tinest specimen of Italian Qothic architecture in America or the world. The great ♦ Victoria Tower in the centre of the taqade is im- posing in its proportions ,* and the polygonal structure of the Dominion Lthraryiain the rear of the buildings. Th« halls of the Senate and Chamber of Commons are worthy of a visit, and are adorned with stained-glass windows and marble columns. In the Senate is a statue of Queen Victoria, and near the vice-regal throne are busts of the Prince and Princess of Wales. The departmental buildings which flank the Farllament House are stately structures, in harmonious architecture, and of the same kinds of stone. The Cathttdral of Notre Dame and the nunneries of the lower town are interesting ; also the new churches of the middle town (whi«'h, like the rest of the city, is still undergoing a formative process). The * * Chaudl^re Falls are just above the city, where the broad Ottawa River plunges down over long and ragged ledges. In this vicinity are immense lumber-yards, with the con- nected industries which support the French Canadian.", who form the majority of the citlaens here. 8. of the city are the pretty Jiirieau Fails. Steamers depart fre- quently for Montreal, and for the remote forests of the N . igh, and SHO-16 lino (25 ng, etc. may be ) of 1,000 is much people of jome dis- ence) and Jttawa ic ; and the )in Moore ), the capital a lofty bluff rchitectuie in fEtqade is im- i Library is in Comnions are rble columns, rone are busts lich ttanlc the «, and of the 8 of the lower ^hich, like the Cliaudlere ten down over with the con- ne majority of ers depart fre- Abattis, P. Q. 292. Advocate Harbor 103, 80. Agulquac River 54. Aiuslie Qlen 167, 169. Albert Bridge, 0. B. 154. Albert Mines, N. B. 72. Alberton, P. E I. 179. Albion Mines, N. S. 186. Aldouin Rlvor, 60. Alemek Bay, N. B 63. Alexander Point 63. Alexis Rtver 225 Allagash River. Me. 68. Allandale, N. B. 52. Alright Id. 184. Alston Point, N B. 65. Amherst, N. 8. 78, 74. Amherst Id. 183. Ancienne Lorette 281, 279. Andover, N. B. 54. Ange Gardien, P. Q. 283. Annandale, P. E I 182. Annapolis Basin, N. 8. 84. AnnapoliH Royal 85. Annapolis Valley 88. Anticosti 234. AntigoniHh, N. 8. 138. Apohaqui, N. B. 71. 48. Apple River, N. S. 80. Apsey Cove, N. F. 210. Aquafort, N. F. 198. ArdoiseMt.jN. S. 93. Argentenay, P. Q. 290. Argyle, N.S. 116,126. Arichat, C. B. 146. Arisaig, N. S. 139. Aroostook Valley, Me. 65. Arthurette, N. B. 54. Aspotogon Mt., N. S. 127. Aspy Buy, C. B. 160. Athol, N. B. 80. Atlantic Cove, C. B. 1<50. Aulac, N. B. 74. Avalon, N. F. 198, 209. Avonport,'N. H 91. Ayle.<*ford, N. S. 89. Aylesford Lakes 90. BaccaUeu Id. , N. F. 201 , 205. 14* INDEX. Baccaro Point, N S. 123. Baddeck, C. B. 162. liuddevk River, 167. Bugotville, P. Q. 302. Baie des Roc hers, P. Q. 295. BaieSt. Paul, P. Q. 292. Baie Verte, N S. 74. Ballard Bank, The 199 Ballyhaly Bog N. F. 195. Bangor, Me. 39. BarachoiH, N. B. 59. Bareneed, N. F. 207. Barnaby Id, I' Q. 250. Barra, Strait of 164. Barr'd Ids , N. F. 210. Barrow, N. F. 214. Barrington, N. 8. 124. Barton, N. S. 112. Baoin ofMinas 101, 108. Basque Harbor 183. Basque Inland 251. Ba88 River 81. Bathurst, N. B. 65, 61 Batlscan, P Q. 307. Batteau Harbor 225. Battery Point, N. B. 68. Battle Id., Lab. 224, 200, 208. Bay, Argyle, N. S. 116. Belleisle, N. B. 42. Bonavista, N. F. 203. Bonne, Lab 219. Bradore, Lab. 230. Bulls, N. F. 194, 197. Canada, N F. 221. Cardigan, P. K. I. 175. Conception, N F 195,206. De Grave, N. F. 207. DuVin,N.B. 61. East, C. B. 147. Kstiuimaux, Ijab 230. Eternity, P Q. Ji03. Fortune, N. F. 214. Garla. N. F 215 Hi Ha, P. Q 301. Hairs, N. F.211. Hermitage, N. V 215. Hillsborough 174, 175. Ingornachoix 219. Kennebecasis 4(\ Bay, Little, N. F. 215. Mahone, N. 8. 118, 127. Miraiiiichi, N. B. 61. Oak, N. B. 34. ofChaleur64, 240. of Denpair 215. of Fair and False 203. of Fundy31,83. of Islands 218. of Notre Dame, N. F. 210. of St. John 219. Placentia, N. F. 212. Richmond, P. E. I. 178. Roberts, N. F, 'M. St. Anne's, v. i>. 168 St George's. N. F. 217. St. .John's. P. Q 304. St. Margaret's \2^^, 118. St. Mary's 112, 213. Sandwich, Lab. 225. Trinity. N. F. 208, 201. Verd, N. F. 201, 208. White, N. F 221. Beach, The 206. Bear Cove 93 Bear Point 143. Bear River 85. Beau hair's Id., N. B. 68. jBeaulieu, P. Q 289. ^Beaumont, P. Q 254. I Beau port, P. Q. 276. Beaver Bank, N S. 93 I Beaver Harbor, C. B. 1'^. jBeaver Harbor, N. B. 31. Beaver Harbor, N. S. 132. Beaver River 114. Becancour, P. Q. 307. Bedeque Bay, P E I. 174 Bedford Biisin, N.S 100. BellcchasHe Id. 254. Belledune, N. B 66. Belle Isle 220, 206. Belleisle Bay, N. B. 42. Bell Isle, N F. 221. BelleonMii, N F. 214. Belliveau Cove, N. S. 112 Belliveau Village 7'.i. Bela'il Mt., P Q. 319. Benacailie Point 165. U 11 i 322 INDEX. I I Ben more 280. BerHiinifl Kivir 233. Berthier en has 254. Berthier en haul ;i08. Berwick, N. H. 9() Bic I(l.,l», U 201 m% Lorn 11, V.W 154. BJ)? Tiuicook Id. 128. Bi. Q. 251. Birch Point «H. BiiTlitown.N S. 121. Bird Inland Cove 2U2. Bird If«U'H 184. Bird Rock 161. Bliwk Bay 228. Black Hrook 01. Bluckiiead 1!J6. Blackhead Cove 210. Black Point, N. 8. 122. Black lUver, N. F. 212. Black River, P. Q. 295. Blancherotte, C. B. 147. Blanc Sablon, Lab 229. Blandford, N. B. 27. Blind liuke, N 8 126. BlisHld ,N. B. 31. Bli-shville, N. B 49. BI(H-khou!'e Mines 153. Bloinidon,Cape 102, 103. Bloody Bay, N. F. 203 Bloody Brid{;;e 79 Bloody Brook, N. S. 89. Blow-uie-Down Head 207. Blue Mt.s.,N. H. SK), 115. Blue Pinion, N. V 214. BIueRoi'krt, N.S. lis. Boar's Back, N. S. 82. Boar'8 Head, N. B. 40. Boiestown, N. B. 47,62. Boisdale 1M2. Bonami Point 67. Bonaparte \.i\V • 36 Bonaventure Id. 243. Bona vi.-fa Bay, N K. 203. Bonlionnne, Le 307. Bornie Hay 219. Bonne E>!])erance Bay 230. Bonnv. Uib 230 Bon Portape Id 124. Bonshaw, P. K. I 174. Bothwell, P. E I. 1H2. Boucherville, IV Q 309. Boularderie, C B. 161. Bout del' l,«le 308 Bradford's Cove 29. Bradore Bay, Lai) 230. Brae, P. E. I. 179. Bral'H,N. F 221 Itranch, N. F 212. Bnmdies, The 2()1 Brandy Pots 252, 296. Bras d'Or, The 161. Breton, Cape 149, 154. Bridgeport, C. B. 162. BridKetown, N. 8. 88. Brid^eton,!*. E. I. 182. Bridjfewater 128, 119. Brij;;r'8 Corner 49. , Brigliton,N S. 112. BriguH, N. F. 207. Bristol, N. B. 51. Broad Cove, N B, 29. Bread Cove, N. F 2()3. BrcKidCove, N. 8 120. Broad t.'ove Int«rvalc 169. Brookfleld, N. 8. 82, 130. Brooklyn, N. 8. 93. Brookvale, \. B. 48. Bnnle Harbor 197. Bruckern Hill 26. Brule Harbor 81. Brunet Id 214. Bryant's (Jove 207 BuVtouche,N. B 59. Bull Ann, N. F. 209. Bull Moose Hill 41. Burgeo, N. F. 215. Burj^oyne's Ferry 51. Burin. N. F. 214, 212. Burliiititou, N S 93. Burnt (Church (52,03. Burnt Head 207. Burnt Kidge 202. Burton, N. B 43. Burying Plate 211. Buttelr Pots, The 199. Cacnuna, P. Q. 296, 252. Calais, Me. 35 jCalcdonia Comer 130. Callicre, P. Q 295. ICalvaire, Miq. 185 Calvaire, P. Q 306. i Cambridge, N. B 42 iCanibriol, N. F. 214 (-ampholl River 55. Campbelltmi, N. B. 68. Caniille, Mt. 249 jCampobello Id. 26. iCanajin River 72. Canada Bay 221. Canada Creek 90. Canning, N. B. 43. (banning, N. 8. 91. Canso 142. Canterbury 37, 52. Cap ,i TAigle 294. an Corb«!an 21*2. de la Magdelaine 307. de Meule 184. R(»nge 281 . St. Ignace253. Cape Alright 184. Anguille, N. F. 217. Ballard, N F. 213. Bauld, N. F.220. Bear 175, 181. BlomidoD, 91, 102, 103. Cape Bluff, Lab. 226. Breton, 149, 154 Broyle, N. F. 197. Canso, N. 8 134, 142. Cha|»eau Rouge 214, 139. Chatte, P. Q. 249. Chignecto, N. S. 104. Cove, N. 8. 114 Cove, P. Q. 241. Colouibier, P Q. 233. Corneille, 294. Dauphin 168, 161. Desolation 226. Despair, P. Q. 241. Diable, P. Q 252a: d'Or, N. 8. 103. East, P Q. 301. Egniont, P. E. 1.174,179 English, N. F. 213. Enrag.', N. B 72. Eternity, P. Q. 303. Fogo,N.F. 204,210. Fourchu, N. 8. 125. Frwls, N. F. 203, 213. Ca«p.-, P. Q 246. (Jeoi-ge, P. Q. 304. (}oose 294. (J rand Bank 214. Gribaune 291. Jourimain 59, 73. Kildare 180. Labaie 292. Lahave, N. 8. 120. La Ilune 216. Largent 202. Mabou, C. B 168. Magd(!laine 248. Mai I lard 292. Marangouin 73. Morien, C. B. 153. N:-gr,>, N. S. 122. Norman^. F 220. North, C. B. 160. Perry, C B 153. Pine, N. F. 213. Porcupine, N. 8. 144. Rjice, N. F 199, 189. Rav,N. F. 217,216. Rhuniore, (\ B. 147. Itidge, N. F. 203. lloscwav,N. 8. 121. Hosier 247, 246. Rouge 291. 8able, N. 8. 123. St. Anne 249 St Fnuicis201,225, 301 8t. (Jeorge 218 8t. Lawrence 160, 170. St. Michael 225. 8t. Nicholas 2.'«. Sanibro 118, 93. Smoky, C. B. 159. Spear, N. y. 189,196. Spencer 104, 83. Ce C Ch Ch.-i Ch; Ch; CJi.i Ch- Ch: Ch: Chf Cha CIh Clu CilC, diet Che Che; VWu Cl.igl Chig Chii Chip INDEX. 323 !5. , 142. 214, 139. .104. t.233. 61. 241. 52^5 \. 174,179 213. 72. . 303. ►4, 210. ^. 126. m, 213. 246. 304. 214. >', 73. i.l20. 168. 1248. V ir)3. 122. F 220. . 100. ir)3. 213. N. S.144. 199, 189. 17,210. . R. 147. . 203. . S. 121. 246. 123. 201,225,301 "18 00 160, 170. Ii 22r). 93. B. 159. ^ 'M89,196. ,83. Cape Split, N S. 104. Touriiieiit«287,253. Touriiit'iitiiH' 59, 73, 174 Tmvern' 174. Trinity, 1*. (I SUM. Trvon, I*. K. I 178. VKtoila, I'. Q. i]04. Whittlo, Lab. 230. Wolfo 1V9. Capiiii Cove 198. CaiiKiiiutto ♦;»), 62. Carbonoar, N. F. 208. Cardit,'an, N. B. 50 Car.li«an, l>. E. 1. 181. Cariltaooii 145. Caribou Id 175, 224. Caribou Plains SO. Caribou Point 233. Carltton, N B. 24. Carl«ton, I». Q. 239. CarrouKcl Id. 23;i Casfai)ediac Bay 240. Casfuuipec 180. Castle Id., Lab. 227. Catalina, N. F. 2Ul. (\italogue. C. B. 154. ( atJiraoouv 280. Cat Cove 221. Caughnawaga 319. Cavendish, F. E. I. 178. Cavorne do Bon temps 290. Cawee Ids. 233. Central Falmouth 91. Centre Hill 209. Chaleur, Bay of, 64,240. Chanioook Mt. 33. Champlain, V. Q. 307. Chance Harbor 31. Change Ids. 205, 210. Channel, N. F 216 Chapel Id ,C. B. 147. Charlesbourg, V Q. 279. Charlottetown,P. E. 1.176. Ch.iteau Bay, Ij»b. 227. Chriteau Beilevue 287. Ch-lteau Bigot 280. Chateau lUoher 284. Chatham, N. B. r>l, 60. Chaudiere Falls 282. Chebuoto Head 93. ChedabiK to May 14.1. Che.sfer.N. S. 127,90. Chetioamp, C B. 170. (nietioanip, N. .'<. 114 Che'/,w'to()ok,N. S. 131. (Miiooutinii. P. Q. 300. (Miign«'oto, Cape, 104. Chigneoto Ptiiinsula 79. (niimney Tickle 227. Ciiiputnetioook Lakes, N. B 38, 46. Chivirie PS, 102, 106. Chouse Brook 221. Ciboux Mb. 161. Clairvaux P. Q. 292. Clan', N. S. 113. Clarendon, N. B. 3^. rUnieiit.-^port, N. ?*. 86. Clementsvaie Kj. t'lifton, N. B. 66, 71. ( lode Sound 203. Cloridornie 248. Ch.u.ls, The, 2'.il. Clyde River, N. S. 124. Coa(0(hf> Kiver '^31 ('obe«iuid .Mt,-., N. S. 80. Cooagne, N. B. m. Colebrooke, N. B. iiTi. Cole's Id. N. B. 47. Colinet, N. F. 213. CoIunile2l5 Conception Bnv 195,206. Concho, N F. 221. Contnoft'iir, P. Q. 308. Corbin, N. F 214 Cornw.ill.s Valley, N. S. 103, 107. Corny Beach 243. Cote' do Bean prr, 283. des Neiges 318. St. Antoine 318. St Luc 318. St. Michel 318. Cotters Id. 203. Coudres, Isle aux £93. Country Harbor 1.3^}. Covehead, P E I. 181. Cow Bay 101,150,153. Cox's Point 49. Crabb's Brook 217. Oane Id , P. Q. 253 Crapaud, P. E. 1. 174. Creignish 168. Cro(iue N F. 221. Cross Id.,N. S. 118. Cunilterland Bav 49. Cumberland Ha'rbor 230 Cupid.s, N. F. 207. Dalhousie, N. B. 67. iDalibaire, P. Q. 249 |l>arkCove,30. [Dartmouth, N. S. 101. il)aupliinev's Cove 126. Davis Strait 226. Dead Ids. 216, 225. iDeadman's I.«Ie 184. JDebec .1 unction 37. Debert 80, 105. iDeep Cove 127. iDeerfield, X S 115. 'Deer Harbor 109. Doer Isle, N. B. 25. Doer l.ake 37. Deer I'oud 219. ;Domoiselle Hill 183. IDenys River, C. B. 165. De Sable 174. Descente des Femtnes 302. Di'schauibHult 31)6. DEsoous.'f, C. B. 146. Despair, Ray of. 215. Despair, Cape, 241. Devil Id. 93. jDovirs Ba.k,N. B. 41. ;D«vir.-i (ioose-Pasture 90. iDovils Head 34. Diablo Bav 228. Digbv, N.*S 84. Digbv Ne, N S. 103. iDorehestor, N. B 73. JDoucofs Id N R.34. iDouglas Harbor 49. 'Doiiglastown, N. B. 62. 90, D<.iigla.».to\vn, P. Q. 244 I Douglas Valley 38. Dumfries, N B. 52. Dundas, N. B 59. Dundas, P E. 1. 182. ,Dunk River 174. Eiirltown, N S. 136. East Bay 147, B'.5, 214. ! Eastern Pa.ssage 93. iKist Point 182. Ea.-tjtort. Me. 26. East River 126, 225. Ebnulon^ iits, I.es, i.94. Echo Lake 131. E( onomv Point 105, 80. Ecurouiis. Los. 306. Eddv Point 143. Edmnndston, N. B. 57. iE(b)obokuk, C B U7. lEol Brook 30. I Egg Ids., l,ab. 233. lEkum Stkum. N. S. 132. Ellorsboiise, N. S. 93. Elliot River 174. Elms.lale, N. S 82. El V.Man Fields, N. S. 79. EiIriold,N. S. 82. English Harbor 201. English Harbor West 214. English P<.int 233. Engli.-^hfown, C. B 158. Enniskillen, N. B. 38. Entry Id. 184 JE-casoni, C. B. 148. jEscuminao I'oint 61. lE'^quimaux Bay 230, 244. i Eternity Bay 3('3. lExploits Id. 205,210. Exploits, River of 210. I Factory Dale, N S. 89. Fairvil'le, N. B. 37. 324 INDEX. i Fairy Luke, N. S. 130. Falkluiul, N. S 9<), 03. FalU, Chaudlen; 282, 320. Chicoutinti, l>. Q. 300. OrHn(ir)6,(»). Grand, N. F. 210. Grande-Mere 307. Lorette, 1». Q. 278. Magaguadavic 32. Munitmisin 232. Montniorenci 277. Nictau, N. S 89. North River 106. Pabinuau, N U. G6. Pokiok, N. B 62. Pollett 72. Rideau, Ont. 820 Riviere du Loup 295. Riviere du Sud 263. St. Anne, l». Q. 28'>. Sault A la Puce 284. Hhawanegan 307 SiHHiboo, N. S. 112. Falmouth, N. S. 91 Farinlnnton, N. S. 89. Father Point, I*. Q. 260. Ferguson 'f Cove 101. Feruieuse, N. F. 198. Fern LcdKC8 24. Ferry land, N. F. 198. Fi.sh Head 30. Five Ida , N. S. 106, 80. Flugg'H Cove 29. Fleurant Point 07. Flint Id., C. B. 150,153. Florenceville, N. B. 53. Flower Cove 219. Fogo, N. F. 204. Folly Pass, N. S. 80. Forks, The 48, 64. Fort Beaubaasin 74, 78. Fort Beausijour 74, 78. Fort Cumberland 74, 78. Forteau, Lab. 228 Fort Fairfield, Me. 54. Fort Ingalls, N. B. 68. Fort Jaiiuea Cartier 306. Fort Kent, Me. 58 Fort Lawrence 74, 78. FortMeduotic.N. B 62,48 Fort NaMcopie, Lab. 226. Fort Norwe.Ht, Lab. 226. Fortune, N. F 214. Foster's (.Jove 64. Fourchette, N. F. 221. Fourchu, C. B 147. Fox Harbor, N. S. 103,81. Fox llirbor, Ub. 224. Fox River 248. Fran»l)oi8e, C. B 147. FnuM>r'« Head lf»4. Fredericton, N. B. 44. Fredericton .luiic 38. French Cross, N. S. 89. French Fort Ciwk 180. j French Uke 48. ; Krenchuian's Cove 214. French River l'«. iFrench Shore, The 216. French Viilag«; 151. Frenchvllle, .Me 57 Freshwater Bay 203 Friar's Fiue 26. Frnzi'ii Ocean 130. Funk Id., N. F. 204. Oabarus Bay 154, 149. Oigctown, N. B. 42,48. Galrloch.N. 8. 136. Gulantry Head 185. Gumbo Ponds 203. Gander Bay 210. Gannet Rock. N. B 29. G.innet Rock 184. Garia Buy 215 Garnish ,'N. F. 214. Gasp-, I'. Q. 244 (iaspere^iux Ijake 90. ( 1.1 v's River, N S 82. (Schtilly, P Q. 307. George Id. 179. George's Td.,N. S. 98. Georgetown,P.E.I.181,176. Gib.«on, N. B. 49. Gilbert's Cove 112. (Jhce Bay 153, 150. Glengarry, N. S. 136. Goat Id., N. 8.86. Godbout, Lab. 233. Goldenville, N. 8. 133. Gold River 128. Gondola Point 71. Gooseberry Isles, 203. Goose Id. 263. GoufTre, Le 293. Gowrie Mines 163. Grand Anse, C. B. 146. Grand Anse, N. B. <«. Grand Banks The 199. Grand Bay 40. Grand Digue 146. Grande Bale 302. Grande-Mere Falls 307. Grand Falls, I^ab. 226. Grand Falls, N. B. 65. Grand Greve, P. Q. 244. Grand Harbor 29. Grand I^ake 36, 48. Grand Lake Stream 35. Grand Manan 28. Grand Narrows 164. Grand Pond 218, 211. (Jrand I're 107,91, 101. Grand Uiver, ('. B 147. Grand Kivcr, N. B. 56. Grand River 241. (Jraml-Rivcr Like 147. Grand Rusticu 178. Grandy*fl Brook, 216. Grant Isle, Me. 57. Granville, N. 8. 86. ut ILi Ha Uke 302. Gn'at Harbor Deep 221. Gnat Meccatina 230. Great Miquelon 186. Gn-at I'abos 241, Great I'ond 248. Great I'uhnico Lake 124. Gn-at St. Fiawrence 214. Great Shemogue 69. Great Village 81. v Green Bay 211. Greenfield 130. Gnen Harbor 209. Green Ids 124, 214, 252. Greenly Id. 229. Gnen River 57. Greenspond, N. F. 203. Onenville 80. Greenwich Hill 41. Grenville Harbor 178. Grimn's Cov( 248. Griguet, N. F. 221. Grimross, N. B. 42. Grindstone Id. 183. Grondines, P. Q. 306. Grosse Isle 264. Gro.sses Co(iues 113. Gull Rock 121. (hit of Canso 142. Guysborough 133. Habitants Bay 143. Ha Ha Bay, P. Q. 301. llalilax, N. S 93. Admiralty House 97. Cathedral 98. Citjidel m. D.ilhousi.! Coll. 98. Gov't IIou.««e 98. Harbor 93. Hortic. Gardens 98. Mu.«eum 9'j Parliament Building 95. Provincial Building 95. Queen's Dockyard 97. Y. M. C A. 96. Halifax, P. K. I 179. Hull's Bay 211,218 Hammond's Plains 100. Hampton, N. B. 71. Hampton, N. 8.89. Hantsport. N. S 91,101. Harbor Briton 214. Harbor Bullet 212. Harbor (Jnice. N. F. 207. Harborville. N. S. 90. Hare Bay, N. F. 221. INDEX. 325 15. 8. 61, 164. e302. i.p221. 230. «kP 124. ire 214. I 50. 09. 214,262. 41.^ lor 178. i48. 221. (.42. , 183. a. 806. i. 8 113. 142. 133. irl43. ' U. 301. {Y.i. 0U8C 97. !on. 98. o 98. ■dens 98. nuUdliiK 95. Building 95. K-kyard 97. ■^96. I 179. 1,218 •liiins 100. U. 71. 8. 89. ^ . S 91, 101. in 214. t 212. I.. N F. 207. N.8. 90. . V. 221. HftreId.,P. Q.252. Haro'B Ears 198. llaru'8.Uead Ilillfl 218. Harmony, P. E. 1. 182. Harvey, N. B. 38. Harvey Corner 72. Haulover iHthnius 146. Havelock, N. 8. 8t». Head of Amherst 78. Heart Ridge, N. F. 210. Heart's Content 208. Heart'H DeliKht 209. Heart's De>*li-e 209. Heart's Ease, N. F. 209. Hel)ertville, P. Q. 300. Hebron, I^ab. 226. Heights of Uud226. Hell Hill 197 Hermitage Bay 215. Herring Cove, N.S. 93. High Beacon 227. Highland Park 23. Highland Village 81. High Point 301. Hillsborough, N. B. 72. Hillsborougli Bay 174 Hillsborough River 180. Hillsburn 86. Hige 124. Boughton 176. Boularderie 161. Brandy Pots 252. Brier il7. Brunet 214. Bryon 184. Cauipobello 26. Ca| e Breton 141. Cap*' Sable 123. Caribou 176,224. Carrousel 23.'J. Castle, I Jib. 227. Catoii's 41 Cawee 233. Chapel 147. (Mieticamp 170. Cheyne29. Christmas 164. Cobbler's 203. Coffin 184. Cole's 47. Cottel's 203. Crane, P. Q. 263. Cross, N S. 118. Dead, N. F. k26. Deer 203. Devil, N. S. 93. Egg, I^ib. 233. Entry 184. Esquimaux, Lab 231. Exploits, N. F. 205,210. Fair, N. F. 203. Fishllake 227. Fly 226. Fogo, NF. 204,210. Foster's, N. B. 41. Fox. N B 61. Funk, N. F. 203. George 179. George's, N. S. 98. Goat, N.S. 85 Goose, V. Q 263. Governor's 175. Grand Dune 61. Gmnd Wannn 28. Grassy, N. B. 41. Great" Caribou 224. Green 124, 201. 220,252. Grimross, N. B 43. Grindstone 72, 183. Grosse 184. Hare, P. Q. 262. Henry 169. Heron 67. Horse 221. Huntington 225. Island, Indian 225. Ireland, N. F. 215. Ironbound 119. •laques Cartier 220. Kaniouraska 252. Large 231. U'nnox, P. E. I. 179. Little Miquelon 186. Little Bay 211. liocke's, N S. 121. Ix)ng42,l(il, 107, 117,212. Iy)w«>r Musquash 42. McNab's, N. 8. 101,93. Madame, P Q 254. Manger's 43. Melville 101. Menishcen 212. Middle 43 Micjuelon 1S6. Miscou (J4. McKwe 26. Nantucket 29. Negro 122. Newfoundland 187. New World 205. of Ponds 225. Panmure, P. E. 1. 175. Park, P E. I. 179. Partridge, N. B. 15. Partridge, N.S. 102, 103 Penguin 203. Pictou, N. 8. 175. Pilgrims 262. Pine her 's 203. Pinnacle 106. Pock.-uedie63. Pool's 203. PortJige 61. Priests' 318. Prince Edward 172. Quarry 231. Quirpon 220. Ram 121. Random, N F. 209. R ^> A 7 -^ RiotDgraphic Sciences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STRUT WHSTM.N.Y. MS 10 (716) •72-4303 4. ^^ V iV \\ lV k o"^ o iL Ss Z. 326 INDEX. laland, Vin, N. B 61 White Head 29. White Horse 31. Wolf 184. Wood IMllar 253. IfllandH, Battle 224. Burnt 215. Camp 227. Ciboiix 161. Dead 215. Five 105. Little St. Modeste 228. Magdalen 183. Mingan 231. Mutton 124. Penguin 203. Jlagged 212. Kaniea 215. Ram's. N. F. 212. Red 147. Seal 225. Seven, Lab. 232. Tancook, N. S. 128. Tusket, N. S. 125. Isle aux Ohiens 185. aux Ooudres 293. Bell.N. F. 221. Belle 206, 220. V Deadnian's 184. Deer, N. B. 25. Qroais 221. Haute 104. Jesus 318. Madame 145. of Orleans 288. St Louis 304. St. Therese 308. Verte, P Q. 262. Isles, Bird 184. Burgeo 215 de la Demoiselle 230. Gooseberry 203. Passe IMerre 305. Peterel 227. Twillingate 205. Wailham, N. F. 203. West, N. B.25,31. .Tackson's .\rm 221. •Tacksonville, N. S 90. •Taqucs ('artier 306. .lebogue Point 125 Jedlore, N. S. l.TJ. .lemseg, N. B. 42,48. .lersevnian Td 145. .Jesus', l.^lo 318. .Icunt'-Lon'tte 278. .loe Batt" s Arm 210. .)ogj;iiis Shore SO. .lolicaMir, N. B. 73. .loliette, P. (l Jonquirre 300. .Tu(li(iue, C. B. 168. Julianshaab, Gr. 226. Kamouraska, P. Q. 252. Keels, N. F. 203. Kegashka Bav 231. ; Kempt Head 162. Kempt, N S. 115. 'Kempt Lake, V. S. 90. Kennebecasis iiny 40, 22. jKenogami, P. Q. 300. Kensington 178. Kentville, N. S. 90. Keswick Valley 50. Keyhole, N. iV. 49. Kingselear, N. B. 51. King's Cove 203. Kingston, N. B. 42. Kingston, N. S. 89. Kouchibouguac Bay 61. U Bonne St. Anne 285. Fiabrador 223. Lac i la Belle Truite 302. Lachine, P Q. 320. La Fleur de Lis 221. Lahave Uiver 128. Lake Ain.«lie 167, l'i9. Bathurst211. Bear 38. Bean port 279. Belfry 154. Ben Lomond 23. Blind 12 ). (Catalogue, C. B. 154. Cellar, N. S. 115. Chamberlain, Me. 58. Cliesunoook 58. Cleveland 57. Cmnberry 38. Croaker's 211. Echo, N. S. 131. Fairy, N S. 1.3). French, N. B. 48. Gabarus, C. B 154. Gaspereaux W. George 51,90, 116. (Jeorge IV. 211 Grand 48, 36, 82. Gravel 295. Great Ha Ha 302. .lones 23. Kempt 90. Lewey's, Me. 35. Lily,'N. B 22. Little HalLi 302. Long, P. Q. 58. Long, N. S. 82. Masiaguadavic 38. Malaga, N. S. 129. Manor, P. Q. 319. Maqnapit, N. B. 48. Mf'tapeilia 69. Mira.C. B. 154. Mi-i. ook 38. 101. 158. ill'. 35. 8. 115. ,7,212. ip 228. m. 41. M. Q. 308. im 305. F. 215. lie 147. . B. 146. 11. •211 ,a, P. Q 308. Laval River 299. Lavaltrie, P. Q. 308. La Vieille 246. Lawlor's Lake 70. Lawrencetown 89, 131. Lazaretto, Tracadie 62. Ledge, The 36. Leitchfield, N. S. 86. Lennox Id. 179. Lennox Passage 145 Les iJboulenients 294. Les Ecureuils 306. Lea Escoumnins 233. L'Etang du Nord 184. L'Etang du Savoyard 185. L'Etang Harbor 31. Letite Passage 32. Levis, P. Q 282. liewey's Id. 35. Lewis Cove 47. Lily Lake 22. Lingan 152, 150. Lion's Back 23. Liscomb Harbor 132. L'Islet, P. Q. 263. L'Islet au Mn^sacre 250 Little Arichat 145. Little Bay Id. 206, 211. Little Bras d'Or 161. Little Falls 67. Little Glace Bay 153. Little Ha Ha I^ike 302. Little Loran 154. Little Miquolon 186. Little Narrows 167. Little Pabos241. Little Placentia 212. Little River 22. Little Ilocher 72. Little Saguenay 304. Little St. lAwrenoe 214. Little Seldoni-rome-by 210. Little Shemogue 59. Little Tancook 128. Liverpool, N. S. 120,130. Lobster Harbor 221. Looh Alva 37. Loch an Fad 147. Loch Lon>ond, 0. B. 147. Loch Lomond, N B. 22. Lochsido, V,. B. 147. Loch Ui.st 147. I^icke's Id , N. S 121. Lo-io B.'iy 195. 200. Loiidondcrrv 105. Ungld.40; 42. 101,117. Long Pilgrim 252. Long Point 231. Long Range 217. liong Reach 41. Long'.s Kddy 30. Longue Point 319. Lon'tte, Indian 278. Lotbiuiire, P. Q 306. iLouisbourg. C. B. 164, 149. I Loup Bay 228. Low Point 168. Lower Canterbury 52. Ijowor Caraquettc 6<). Losvcr French Vill 51. , Lower Horton 107. Lower IVIiddleton 89. Ix)wer Prince William 51. Lower Queensbury 51. Lower \Voodstock 52. Lubec, Me 26. Ludlow, N. B. 47. Lunenburg 118, 128. iMabou, C. B. 169 iMabou Valley 168. McAdani .luiic. 38. Miu-can.N. S. 80,79. Mace's Bay 31. MoNab's Id. 101, 93. Madawaska 57. Magiigiiadavic River 32. Magdalen Ids. 183 Magdelaiiie, Cape 248 Maguacha Point 67, 239. Magundy, N. B. 51. Mahogany Road 24. Mahoiie Hay 127,118. Maiii-4-I)ieu 150. Maitland 82, 105, 129. MalagJi Lake 1.30. Malagawdatchkt 165. Malbaie, P Q. 294. Mai Bay 244. Malcolm Point 61. Malignant Cove 139. Malpeque Harbor 178. Manchester, N. S. 133. Manicouagiin 233. 250. Manitou.sin Falls JJ2. Maquapit Lake 48. Marchniont 280. Margaree River 167. Margarec Forks 170. Margaretsville 89. Maria, P. Q. 240. Marie Joseph 132. Marion Bridge! 154. Marshalltown 112. MaM Head 117. Mars Hill 54. Marsh Roa Onslow 80. Oromocto, N. B. 43. Oromocto Lake 38. Orono, Me. 39. Otnabog, N. B. 42. Ottawa, Ont. 320. Outarde River 250. Oxford, N. 3. 80. Ovens, the 119. Pabineau Falls 66. Pabos, P. Q. 241. Painsec June. 72, 69. Paps of Matane 249. Paradise, N. F. 226. Paradise, N. S. 89. Parrsboro', N. S. 102. Partridge Id., N. B. 16. Partridge Id., N.S. 102. Paspebiac, P. Q 240. Patrick's Hole 290. Patten, Me. 68. Penguin Ids. 203. Penobscot River 39. Pcnobsquis, N. B. 71. Pentecost River 233. Pepiswick Lake 131. Perc •, P. Q. 242. Pervoquets, The 232. Perry, Me. 28. Perth, N. B. 54. Petitcodiac 72, 48. Petit de Grat 146. Petite Bergeronne 233. Petite Passage 117. [ jtitM.tia'^9 Petty Harbor 197. Piccadilly Mt. 71. Pickwaakeet 42. P< Poi Por 1 I Aid Stnit 60, mlOO. re 177. 71,42. .226 lay 210, 205. lu Lac 58. •6. L. B. 34. ,61. ve208. ^ [n204.' 226. iture 210. 519. int 158. les 82. [ 209, 201. B. 39. «bo231. '^. B. 43. lake 38. 39. . B. 42. t. 320. ver 250. S. 80. 119. falls 66. . 241. Qc. 72, 69. tane 249. F.225. , S. 89. N. S. 102. [d.,N.B. 15. [d. N. S. 102. P Q 240. ole290. .68. ds. 203. River 39. 8,N.B. 71. River 233. Lake 131. Q. 242. , riie 232. 28. B. 64. ; 72, 48. rat 145. •geronne 233. sage 117. 18 249 bor 197. Mt. 71. ect42. Pictou 137, 166. Pictou Id. 175. Pilgrims, The 252. Pincher's Id. 203. PinuacleTd.,N. S. 105. Pirate's Cove 143. Pisariuco ^^^ove 31. Plaoentia h y 212. Plains of Abraham 280. Plaster Cove 143, 168. Pleasant Bay 183. Pleasant Point 27. Pleureusc Point 249. Pluniweseep 71. Pockmouche, N. B. 62. Pockshaw, N. B. 66. Point k Bcauiieu 295 Point Aconi.C. B. 161. Amour, Lab. 228. k Pique 294 au Bourdo 69. de Monts 233, 249. du Chene 59, 60. la Boule 305. Lepreau 31. Levi, P Q. 282. Maquereiiu 241. Miscou, N B. 64. Orignaux 252. Pleasant 40, 68, 100. Prim 175, 181. Rich.N. F 219. St. Charles 316. St. Peter 244. Wolfe, N. B. 71. Pointe & la Oarde 68. i la Croix 68. aux Trembles 306, 309. Mille Vacbes 233. Roches 301. Rouge 299. Pokiok Falls 52. Pollett River 72. Pomquet Forks 189. Pond, Deer, N. F. 219. Grand, N. F 218. Red Indian 211. Quemo-Gospen 213 Ponhook Lake 130, 126. Port Acadie, N. S. 113 Portage Road, N. B. 61. Port au Basque, N. F. 216. au Choix 219. au Persil, P. Q. 295. au Pique 81. au Port, N. F. 218. aux Quilles, 295. Daniel 241. Elgin, N. B. 78. Porter's Lake, N. 8 131. Port Greville, N. S. 103. Hastings, C. 6. 143. Ilawkesbury 148. Uerbert, N. S. 121. INDEX. Port Hill, P. E. I. 179. Hood, C. B. 169. Joli, N. S. 121. Latour, N. S. 122. Med way, N. S. 120. Mouton 120 Mulgr.ive 143, 140. Port Neuf, Lab. 233. Portneuf, P. Q. 306. I Porto Nuevo Id. 149. 'Portugal Cove 195, 206. Port St. Augustine 230. Port .Villiauis 89, 91 Powder-llorn Hills 212. Pownal, P. E I. 177. Presque Isle, Me. 54. Preston, N. S. 131. Preston's Beach 61. Prim Point 83. Prince Edwai-d Id 172 iPrincetown.P. E. I. 178. Prince William 62. Prince William St. 89. Pubnico, N. S. 125. Pugwash81,80. Quaco, N. B. 71. Quebec, P. Q. 265. Anglican Cathedral 200. Basilica 261 Cathedral 261 Citadel 266. Custom House 271. Durham Terrace 259. Esplanade 268 Gen. Hospital 272. Gov.'s Garden 269 Grand Battery 269. H3tel Dieu 266 .lesuits' College 261. Laval University 263. Lower Town 271- Marine Hopp 272. MarV.ot Sq. 260. Martello Towers 270. Montcalm Ward 270. Morrin College 265 N. D. des Victoires 271. Parliament Building 263. Post -Office 264. St. John Ward 269. St. Roch 272. Seminary 262. Ursuline Conv. 264. Quemo Go.«pen 213. Quiddy Viddy 195 Quirpon, N. F 220. Quispamsis, N B. 70. Quoddy Head 26. Ragged Harbor 201. Ragged Ids. 212. Ramealds. N. F. 216 Ram Id. 121. Rain's Ids. N. F. 212. 329 Random Sound 209. Rankin's Mills, N. B. 87. Rapide de Femme 56. Rapids, I.jichine 319. Meductic 52. St Anne 320. St. Mtry's 319. Terres Rompues 300. Red Bay 228. Red Cliffs, Lab. 220, 228. Red Head, N. F. 200. Red Hills, N. F. 199. Red-Indian Pond 210, 211. Red Ids 147 Red Point; 182 Red Rapids, N. B. 54. Remsheg, N. S 81. Renewse, N. F. 198. Renlrew, N. S. 82. Repentigny, P. Q. 308 Restigouche River 69, 56. Richibucto, N. B. 60. Richmond Bay 178. Rigolette, Lab. 226. Rimouski, P. Q 250 River, Avon, N S. 91. Charlo, N. B. 66. Denys, C. B. 166. Gold, N. S. 128 Gouffre, P. Q, 292. Hillsborough 180. number, N F. 219. iohn,N S. 81. LaHave, N. S. 128. Louison, N. B. 66. Magaguadavic 32. Manitou, I^ab. 232. Miramichi 61. Mistassini 301. Moisic, Lab. 232. Nepisiguit 65, 55. of Castors 219 Explo-ta 210. Ottawa 320. Petitcodiac 72. Philip, N. S. 80. Restigouche 69, 56. Saguenay 297, 233. St. Anne, P. Q. 286. St. Croix, N. B 33. St. John, Lab 232. St. Lawrence 246, 306 St. Marguerite 305. St. Mary's, N. S. 13a St Maurice 807. Riversdale, N. S 186. River, Tobiaue 54. Riviere 4 TOurs 801. k Mars 802. du Loup 295, 262. Maheu 290. Ouelle, P. Q. 252. Robbinston, Me. 88. Robervul, P. Q. 801. 1' 330 INDEX. Robinson's Point 48. Rochette, N. B. 66. Rock, Perc.^242. Rockland, N. B. 73. Rockport 73. Rocky Bay.N. F. 210. Rocky I^kc, N. S. 82. Rollo Bay, P. E. 1. 182. Ro.sades, The 251. Rose Bay 119. Rose Blanche 215 Rossignol Ijake 130. Rosa way, N. S. 116. Rothesay 22, 70. Rough Waters 66. Round Harbor 211. Route dea l»retres 290. Royalty June. 177. Rustico, P. E. 1. 178. Sabbattee Lake 127. Sabiuun Lake 124. Sable Id. 134. Sackville, N. B. 73. Sacred Ids. 220. Saddle Id. 227 Sagona Id. 214. Saguenay River 297. St. Agjies, P. Q. 295. St. Albans, P. Q. 281. St. Alexis 69, 302. St. Alphonse, P. Q. 302. St. Andrews, N. B. 33,28. St. Andrews, P. K I. 181. St. Andrew's Ciiannel 1(35. St. Angel de Laval 307. St. Anne (Bout de PI.) 320 St. Anne de Beaupr6 285. St. Anne de la Perade 307. Anne de la Pocatiere 253. Anne des Monts 249. Anne du Nord 285. Anne du Saguenay 300. Anne Mts. 287. St. Anne's Bay 158. St. Anthony 221. St. Antoine de Tilly 306. St. Antoine l»erou 292. St. Ars.ne 296 St. Augustin 306. St. Barbe 219. St. Bai^ll 57. St Bruno 319. Cecile \n Bio 251. Charles Harbor 227. St. Colomb 280. St. Croix, P. Q. 306. St. Croix Cove 89. St. Croix River 33. St. Cuthbert 308. St. David's 178. St. Denis, P. Q. 252. St. Donat, P. Q. 250. St. Eleanors, P. E. 1. 179. St St St St St St. St. St. Elizabeth, P. Q. 308. St. Esprit, C. B. 148. St. Etienne Bay 306. St. Fabien, P. Q 251. St. Famine, P. Q. 289. St. Felicif, P. Q 249. St. Felix de Valois ,308. St. For, ol, P. Q 287. St. Fidele, P. Q. ,95. St. Flavie 70, 250. St Foy, P. Q. 281. St. Francis 58. St. Francis Harbor 225. St. FrauQoi.^ 290. St. Fran^-ois du Lac 308. St. Franc^'ois Xavier 292. St. Fulgence301. St. Genevieve 219 St. Oeorge, N. B. 32. St. George's Bay 217. St. George's Channel 165. St. Germain de Rim. 250. St. Irvnc^e 294. Sb. Ignace, Cap 253. St. Jaques 214. St .Jean Baptiste 318. St. .Jean Deschaillons 307- St. Jean d'Orleans 290. St. Jean-Port-Joli 253. St. Jerome, P. Q. 301. St. Joachim 287. St. John, N. R. 15. Cathedral 18. Custom-House 17. Gen. Pub. Hosp. 18. Ilurbor 15. King Square 16. Post-Offlce 17. St. Paul's 19. Trinity 17. Valley, The 19. Wiggins Asyl. 1". Y. M. C. A 16. St. John,Liike301. St. John's, N. F. 189. Anglican Cathedral 191. Colonitil Building 192. Gov't House 192. Harbor 189 Narrows 191. Roman -Catholic Cathe- dral 192. Signal Hill 193. St. John's Bay 304. St. Jones Harbor 209. St. Joseph, N. B 73. St. Joseph P. Q. 282 St. Ijiurent 290. St. Lawrence Bay 100. St. Lawrence River 246, 305 St. Leonard, N. B. 56. St. Leon Springs 308. St. Lewis Sound 225. St. Louis Isle 304. St. Luce, P. Q. 250. St. Lunaire 221. St. Margaret River 233. St. Margaret's Bay 219. St. Margaret's Bay 126, 118 St. Marguerite River 305. St. Martin,P. Q. 318. St Martins, N. B. 71 St. Mary's, N. B. 45 St. Mary's, N. F 213 St. Mary's Bay, N F. 213 St. Mary's Bav, N. S. 112. St. Mary's Bay, P E.I. 181 St. Maurice River 307. St. Matthieu 251. St. Michaels Bay 225. St. Michel 254. St. Moileste 296. St Norbert308. St. Octjive, P. Q. 249. St. On^sime, P. Q. 253. St. Pacome, P. Q 263. St. Paschal 252. St. Patrick's Channel 167. St. Paul's Bay 292. St. Peter's, C.B. 146. St. Peter's, N. B. 66. St. Peter's, P. E I. 182. St. Peter's Bay 227. St. Peter's Inlet 165. St Peter's Id. 174. St. Peter, Lake 307. St. Pierre 185, 214. St. Pierre d'Orleans 289. St. Pierre les Becquets 307- St. Placide, P. Q. 292. St. Roch-des-Aulnaies 253. St. Romuald, P. Q. 282. St. Rose de Lima 318. St. Shot's, N. F. 213. St. Simeon, 295. St. Simon 261. St. Stephen, N. B. 35. St. Sulpice, P. Q. 308. St. Th -rese 318 St. Thomas, P. Q. 253. St. Tite des Caps 287. .St. Urbain 292. St. Valier, P. Q. 254. St. Vincent de Paul, 318. Salisbury, N. B. 72. Salmon Cove 201. Sahnonier, N. F. 213. Salmon River 49, 71, 114. Salt Mt.,C. B 167. Salutation Point 174. Sambro Id. 117. Sandwich Bay 225. Sandwich Head 227. Sandybeach 244. Sandy Cove 116, 112. Sandy Point 217. Sault a la Puce 284. Sault au Coohon 291. Sou S. s. Spa Spet Spec Spei Spe Spi S,)ii Split Spot Spoi Spra Spra Sprii Sprii Sprii ). •233. ,• 219. y 120,118 fox 3l»5. }18. 1.71 45 213 4 F. 213 4.S. 112. E.I. 181 r30T. ^225. .249. Q. 263. i 253. lanuel 167. i92. 1. 146. B.66. E 1. 182. 227. it 166. 174. ;307. 2i4. leans 289. Jecquets 307. ,.ulnaie8 263. P. Q. 282. ,iia318. F. 213. 5. B. 35. Q. 308. 8 Q. 253. apa 287. 2. Q. 254. ^ Paul, 318. B.72. 201. F 213. 49,71,U*- i 167. >iut 174. 17. ,y 225. ad 227. 244. L16, 112. 217. ,ce 284. hou 291. Sault au Kecollet 318. Sauitde Mt)uton233. Soatari, V. B. 150. Schoodic, Lakes .35. Sootclitown, N B. 48. Scotch Vill!iK'e9;3. Sculpin Point 214. Seal Cove, N. B 29. Seal Cove, N F. 221. Seal Id N. S. 124. Seal Ids. 225. Sea-Trout I'olnt 175. Sea- Wolf Id. Kl!). Seeley'H MUU 71. Seguni-Se}?a Lakes 130. Seldom-conie-by 210. Seven Ids., Lab. 232. Shag Id. 230. Shawancgan Falls 307. Shecatica Bay 230. Shediac 59, 6U, 174. Sheet Harbor 132. Shell)urne, N. S. 121. Shepody Bay 73. Slu'podv Mt 72. Sherbrooke 133, 132. Sherbrooke Lake 90. Shinimicas, N. S 78. Sliip Harbor 132 Shippigan Id. 63. Shoo Cove 211, 221. Shubenacadie 82. Sillery, P. Q. 280. Silver Falls, N. B. 22. Ilauiil ton's 203. Sir Charles Sound, N. F. Si.ssiboo Falls 112. Skve Glen 168. Smith's Sound 209. Smoky , Cajxi 169. Sorel," P. Q. 308. Souris, P. E I 182. South Bay, N. B. 40. South Mt. 84. South Oromocto Lake .38. Southport, P. E I. 177. South Quebec 282. S. W Head 29. S. W. Miramichi 62. Spaniard's Bay 207. Spear Harbor 225. Spectacle Id. 120. Spencer's Id. 103, 104, 106. Spencer Wood 280. ti=piller Rocks 202. Split, Cape 104 Split Rock, 31. Spotted Id. 225. Spout, The 197. Spragg's Point 42. Sprague's Cove 29. Springfield, N Springfield, N S 89. Springhill, N. B. 61. i>. 12. INDEX. SpnngIIill,N. S. 80. Spruce Id 31 Spruce I>iike 24. Si.ry IJay 132. Stanley, N. 15 m. Statue Point 80.3. Steep Creek 143. Stellarton, N. 8. 136. Stewiiieke 82. Stone Pili:ir253. Storniont, N. S. 1,33 Strait of ISarra 1(14. Strait (.f Relle l.>^le 220, 227- Strait of Cans . 112. Stmit of Nortliuinberland 60, 174 239 Strait Shore, N. F 196. Sugar Id 50, 51 Sugar- Loaf, N. H. 68. Su|.;ar-Loaf, N. F. 2W, 217 Suninier.'^ide, I' E I. 178. Siinacailie, C. B 164. Su.^sex Vale, N. B. 71. Swailow-Tail Head 29. Sydney, C. B. 150. Sydney Mines 152. Tableau, Lt» 30,3. Table Head 227. Table Roulante 243. Tabusiniac 61, 62. Tadou.«ac, P. q 299. Tangier, N. S 1,32 Tannery West 319. Tantraniar .Marsh 79, 74. Tatainagourhe, N. S. 81. Tea Hill, l>. E. 1. 177. Tedish, N. B. 59 Temi.^couatii Ijike 58, 295. Temple Bay, Uih 227. Tennant's Cove 42. Tlioroughfare, The 48. Three Rivers 307. Three Tides, P. E. I. 174. Tliree Towers, N. F. 211. Thrumcap Shoal 93. Tickle Cove 203 Tidnish, N. S. 78. Tignish, P. E. I 180. Tilt Cove 205, 211 Tilton Harbor 210. Toad Cove 197. Tobi(iue, N. B. 64. Tolt Peak 217. Tonikedgwick River 69. Top.-*ail, N. F. 206 Torbay. N. F. 195,200. Tor Bay, N. S. 134. Tonnentine, Cape 174. Torrent Point 227. Tracadie, N B. 62. iTracadie, N. S. 139. Tracadie, P. E. I. 181. iTracadiegash 67, 239. O'.M Tracv'8 L.ake 71. Tracy's Mills, 38^ Travers*', Cape 174. Treniont, N. S. 89. Treimssey, N. F 213. Trinity, N. F 201. Trinity Hay 208,201. Trinity, Cape 303. Trinity Cove im. Trois Pl.-toles 251. Trois Riviires 307. Trou St. Patriuche 69. ucto IndiaS^.^- B du Loupes, e Quelle 252. vals, the 301. & Co. 240. Island 135- Q ,nayHiver298. inedoBeaupr6 285. nne'8Bay,«.B 15»- ugustin, P. Q- 306. roix Island 34. oachlm, P. Q- 287. ohn River 40. ohn'8,N.F.l93. lary's Bay Ui- >auV8 Bay 292. haul's Island IW. Peter's, 0. B. 146. Pierre, Miq. !»> Scottish Migration 164 Sillery.P. Q. 281. Sorel, P. Q. 308. Strait of Belle Isle 220. Sydney, C. B. 151. Sydney Coal-Mines 153. Tadousac, P Q. 298, 299. Tilbury, Wreck of the 148. Trt'pasfiey, N. F 213 Trois Pistoles, P. Q. 251. Truro, N. S. 81. Ursulines of Quebec 265. Index to Quotations. Walker's Expedition 233, 241. Wallis, Admiral 100. Williams, fl«n. 100. ! Windsor, N S. 92. i Yarmouth, N. S. 114. Alexander, Sir J. E. 38, 68. Baillie, T. 43. Ballantyne, R. M. 292. Beecher, Henry Ward 268. Boucher 292. Bouchette, R. 247, 278. Bougiinville238. Bonnyca.stle, Sir R. 67. 196, 218. Brown, Richard 141, 154, 156, 167, 169, 166, 233. Buies, Arthur 240, 243, 244, 248, 250. Cartier, Jacques 204, 246, 288, 298. Champlain 124, 273, 296. Charlevoix 30, 77, 150, 158, 184, 204, 233, 238,247,289,293,299,300. Cozzens, F. S. 92, 96, 100, 111, 131, 140, 142, 147, 166. Cremazie, 0.247. Dawson, J. W. 102, 142. De Costa, B. F. 28, 29, 30. De Mille, Prof 106. Dilke, Sir Charles 258, 269. Dufferin, Lord 237. Ferland, Abb6 232, 248, 283. Fiset, L J. C 247. Gesner, Dr. A. B. 32, 36, 43, 56. Gilpin, Dr. 134. Gordon, Hon. Arthur 61, 52, 63, 56, 66, 62, 67. Grey 247. Haliburton, Judre 90, 91, 109, 111, 113. Hallock, Charle8^67, 78, 103, 126, 127, 128, 129, 130. 169, 170, 225, 227, 240, 301. Hamilton, 88. Hardy, Capt. 129, 130, 131. Hawkins'8 Quebec 256, 259, 261, 272. Heriot, George 279, 284. ^ Hind, Prof 232,233. Howells, W. D. 260, 268, 276, 278, 280, 281,302,303. Imray's Sailing DirectionslS, 158,169,248. Johnston, Prof J. F. W. 23, 31, 45, 57, 71, 117. Jukes, Prof. J. B. 189, 196, 196, 216, 218. Kalm 305. I Kirke, Henry 245. i La Hontan, Baron 87, 212, 805. Lalemant, P^re 249. Lanman, Charles 68. Le Moine, J. M. 258, 2f54, 280, 294. Lescarbot, M. 34, 85, 80, 201. London Times 257, 2!J8, 304. Longfellow, II. W. 109, 110, 111, 113. Lowell, R. T. S 187. McCrea, Lf.-Col. 193, 195, 197. Marmier, X. 257. Marshall, C 278, 286. Martin, M. 154. M'Oregor, John 19, 42, 117, Vi.8, 166. Moore, Tom 184. 820. Moorson, Capt. 110, 118, 122. Murdoch, B. 75, 109. 122, 155. 156. Noble, Rev. L. L. .30, 91, 103, 141, 160, 189, 193, 196, 204, 219, 221, 223, 224, 228. Novus Orbis 125. Parkman, Francis 237, 246, 262, 266, 275, 279, 285, 288. Perley, M. II. 182. Rameau. M. 238, 277. Roosevelt, R. B. (56. Routhier, A. B. 252. Sagas of Iceland 123, 204. Sand, Maurice 186. 266. Scott, G. C. 8, 36, 200. Shirley, Gov 274. Silliman, Prof 238, 267, 267, 277. Stednmn. R. H. 170. Strauss, 231 Sutherland, Rev. George 178, 180. Tach«5 251. 299. Taylor'.s Cunntfian Hnndbouk 242, 248, 251,282,319. Taylor, Bayard 277, 291, 292, 293, 297, 304. Thoreau, H. D. 237, 238, 246, 257, 267, 276, 277, 283, 284, 287, 309, 312. Trudelle 292. Voltaire 274. Warburton, Eliot 190, 195, 234, 256. Warner, Charles Dudley, 20, 25, 26, 84, 86, 91, 92, 95, 107 1.38, 140, 158, 162, 165, 166, 167, 168, 176, 176, 179. Whitburne, Capt 187. White, Joha, 278, 298, 303. Whittier, Jchr G 21, 66, 209, 224, 280. ! I t : i I ' : !i •I •1 ii I ! I I II ' f :'i ! 334 i;} J INDEX. Index to Bailways and Steamboat Lines. European and North American 37. Grand Trunk 306. Intercolonial 70, 78. New Brunswick 49. New Brunswick and Canada 33. Pictou Branch 130. Prince JMward Island 177, 180, 182. Quebec and (Josford 255. Sliediac Branch 59. Windsor and Annapolis 83. Basin of Minas 101. Bras d"Or, 161. Conception Bay (N. F.) 206. Eastport 25. Grand f^ake 48. Halifax to Sydney 148. Labrador 224. Magdalen Islands 183. Moisic River (Labrador) 229. 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HOTEL BRUNSWICK, Boston, Mass., Corner of Boyl- ston and Clarendon Streets, oi>pof»ite Trinity church (I'hiilips Hrooks's), the Mafsachusetts Institute of Tochnology, the MuHeuni of Natuml History, and close to the Museum of Fine Arts, the New Old South Church, etc., and amid the best part of the beautiful Back Bay District. Also, under the same Proprietorship , HOTEL VICTORIA, a new and sumptuous hotel at the comer of Dartmouth and Newbury Streets, kept on the European i)lan, and by veteran travelers called *' the Delmonico's of Boston."" This house is on the Back Bay, close to ('opley Squai'e and Commonwealth Avenue. HOTEL PONEMAH, at Mllford Springs, N. H., on., and a half miles by stage from Amherst Station, which is one and a quarter hours by express train from Boston (Boston and Lowell line). A first-class and moed in rich ,ny wateis, ular rock- lany points I elsewhere thousands cool recess ason. The iitastic and enr is tem- an arboreal ered in the [ the great . There is »{ finish and irtificial ad- )t often en- [:an summer tie railway cended ten derness, de- linus in the Lision on the [TILE House t a village in :e some old sea is this ninous blue i great stone k formation ire glimmers iwasset, and is but half ;;;onnecticut, )re beautiful ang its crys- obtain the n both lakes torial sports, jatronage of mlar amuse- inis grounds nd well-kept Excursions Lakes, Old ch is the ob- Pooi, Basin, vood, Jeffer- th Conway, year. n Hay-fever, les, also rare accommoda- who desire LEAF, PRIETORS. INTERNATIONAL STEAMSHIP CO.'S LINE % OF POPULAR STEAMERS « BETWEEN BOSTON, PORTLAND, EA8TP0RT, AND CALAIS, ME. A^iD ST. JOHN, N. B. With Connections for Campobello and St. Andrews, also for all Parts of MARITIME PROVINCES. SPRING ARRANGEMENT. May 2, 1892, to July 4, 1892. Steamers leave Boston at S.30 A. M., Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, for Kastpoit and St. John. Leave Portland at 5.0x3 P. M. Mondays and Fiidaysonly. (The Wednesday trip is to be made direct to Eastport, not calling at Portland.) Returning, leave St. John at 7.25 A. M., and Knstport at 12.30 P. M., for Bos- ton, Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, and fo. i'ortland Mondays and Fridays only. (The Wednesday trip is to be made direct between Eastport and iioston, not calling at Portland.) SUMMER TIME-TABLE. Daily TAne (Except Sunday), July 4 to Sept. 5, 1802. Going East, Steamers leave as follows: BOSTON, M(iNDAY, s.oo P. M. Direct to Eastport and St. John. TUKSDAY, " " •' . " Wednesday, i.oo P. M. By Boston and Maine R. R., connecting at Portland with steamer for Eastport and St. John. Thijrsday, 5.00 P. M. Direct to Eastport and St. John. Friday, " " '* '^ Saturday, 1.00 P. M. By Boston & Maine R. R., connecting at Portland with steamer for Eastport and St. John. Coiner West, Steamers leave as follows: ST. JOHN, 7.25 A. M., and Eastport at noon, Monday, Boston direct. " " and Eastport at noon, Tnesday, to Portland, connect- ing with Boston & Maine R. R. train, due in P.oston at ir.io A. M. " and Eastport at noon, Wednesday, Boston direct. " and Eastport at noon, Thursday, Boston direct. " and Eastport at noon, Friday, to Portland, connect- ing with Boston iK: Maine R. R. train, due in Boston at II. 10 A. M. " and Eastport at noon, Saturday, Boston direct. Sept. 5, 1 892, to October 31,1 892. Same Time-Table as May 2 to July 4, iSya. October 31, 1892, to March, 1893. The usual ;irrangement is for the steamers to leave either end of the route, call- ing at Portland and Eastport in both directions, Mondays and Thursdays at the usual hours. For a few weeks in midwinter the service may, however, be reduced to one trip per week ; Monday going East, and Thursday coming West. « u t( (t (C E. A. WALDRON, Geuertjl Agent, Commercial Wharf, Boston. J. B. COYLE, Manager, Portland, Mb, ^