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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mAthode. • • ■•t. #■ 'rl. 4 ■^J TRAViLS AW AI>VENTpSlES >*» '»- " ■ ^^\^-;v*''> «% IN ■15 •** ■ ■—«• »»ii»-. AND \ ./ TERMITOSlMS, THE IBAns 1780 AMdIP^O. * IN TWO PA^TS. 4 ^'?; -■^i' ' ^TAI.E3|ANDEII|pENRY, ESQ. ■ lu. '"t««ai«*l.-v 1% A PREMATURE attempt to share in the fur-trode of Canada^ directly on the conquest of the country y ted the autlior of the foUcnving pages into situations of some danger and sin- gularity ; and the pursuit, under better auspices, of the same branch of commerce^ occasioneil him to visit various parts of the Indian Territories. '.'■.•■ * • ' These transactions occupied a period of sixteen yearSf commencing nearly with theauthor^s setting out in life. The details, from time to time commit- ted to paper, form the subject matter of the present volume. % '■% The heads, under which, for the most part, they will be found to range themselves are three: first, the incidents or adventures in which the author was engaged; secondly, the observations, on the geography and natural history of the countries visited, which he was able to make, and to preserver ■■*t.^ 3'. 41 "■»*iiufci(Cf"'«-;.'P-'. VI and J thmUy^ the views o/* society and manners, among apart of the Indians of North America, whichit has belonged to the course of fus narrative to develope. > Upon the lasty the author may he permitted to remark, that he has by no means undertaken to write the general history of the fAmerican Indians, nor any theory of their morals, or their merits, ^With but few exceptions y it has been the entire scope of his design, simply to relate those parti- cttlarfatiSf which are eitheh identijied with his own fortunes, or with the truth of which he is otherwise personally conversant. All comment, therefore, in 'almost all instances, is studiously avoided. Montreal, October 20th, i 809. manners, America, J narrative permitted ertaken to m Indians, eir merits, \ the entire lose parti- *d with his hich he is f comment, studiously 'H;,'^:' '>h PART THE FIRST, ■■^ .* . u- ■1^^. I \ {•i(^ - v,,. ** ~ fe # ' .»., :'«r' < • ,/ ■> - 4^ ) I % ,. , , ■'-■" • t !• *i * ■ » *r 1 % ** \ TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES, CHAPTER L Jimmies and Foyages between Ostuegatchie and MontrSaL Indian encampments. Indian hospi- tality, fFinter travelling, in thetvilder parts of Canada. Les Cadres, the uppermost white settle- \ment on the river Saint- Lawrence. Author prepares for a voyage to Michilimacktnac. IN the year 1760, when the British arms, under General Amherst, were employed in the reduction of Canada, I accompanied the expedition, which, subsequently to the surrender of Quebec,* descend- ed fh>m Oswego, on Lake Ontario, against Fort de Levi, one of the ui^)er posts, situate on an island, which lies on the south ^ide of the great river, Saint- Lawrence, at a short distano^ below the mouth of * Quebec surrendered on thf; iSth of September, 1759. i>. THAVELd AND ^^# CA. D. % the Oswcgatchie. Fort de Levi«un^ndcrcd on Ac 21st day of August, "seven days after the com- mencement of the siege ; and General Amherst con- tinuedhis voyage down the stream, carrying his forces against Montreal. It happen^, that in this voyage, one of the few fatal accidents, which are remembered to have oc- ciii#d; in that dangerous, part of the river, beloW Lake Saint-Fran9ais, called the Rapides des Cadres, bcfel the British army. Several boats, loaded with provisions and military stores, were lost, together with upward of a hundred men. I had three boats, loaded with merchandize, all of which were lost^ and I saved my life, only by gaining the bottom of oneof my boats, which lay among the rocky shelves, and (HI wh;ch I continued for some hours, and un- til I was kindly taken off, by one of the general's aides-de-camp. The surrender of Montr6al,and, with it, the sur- render of all Canada, followed that of Fort de Levi, at only the short interval of three days; and, pro- posing to avail myself of the new market, which was thus thrown open to British adventure, I hastened to Albany, where my commercial connec- tions were, and where I procured a quantity of goods, with which I sat out, intending to carry them to Montr6aI. For this, however, tlie winter was too near approached; I was able only to return to Fort % i^djgr ADVENTURES. de Levi, ti> which the conquerors had now given the name of Fort William-Augustus, and where I remained until the month of January, in the fol- Ibwi^gyear. ^*' At this time, having disposed of my goods to the garrison; and the season, for travelling on tht snow and ice, being set in, I prepared to go down to Montreal. The journey was to be pelfaHied through a country, inhabited only by Indiansand by beasts of the forest, and which presented to the eye no other change, than from thick woods, to the broad surfeee of a frozen river. It was neces. sary that I should be accompanied, as weU by an interpreter as by a guide, to both of which ends, I engaged the services of a Canadian, named Jolfln-* Baptist Bodoine. . 't- The snow, which lay upon the ground, was, by this time, three feet in depth. The hour of depar- ture arriving, I left the fwt, on snow-shoes, an ar- ticle of equipment which I had never used before, and which I found it not a litde cUfficult to manage. I did not avoid frequent falls ; and, when down, I was scarcely able to nse.^ At sunset, on the first day, we reached an Indian encampment, of six lodges and about twenty men.^ As these people had been very recently employed offenavely, against the English, in the French sei^'" '^^ TRAV12«S AND pk.n. yiDe, I agt«ed but rdbictantly to tibie |9)pppsal; of my guide and interpreter, whieli vm n^t^bing less, than that we should pass the night with them. My fears were somewhat lulled by his infofma- ticMi, that he was personally acquainted with those idio composed the camp^ and by his assurances, tiiat no danger was to be apprehended ; aiHl,bdng gfea|}>i fatigued, I entered one of the lodges^ where ipiiicirtly fell asleep. Unfortunately, Bodoine had brought, upoi;& his back, a small keg of rum, which, while I slept, be opened, not only for himself, but for the general gratificstion of his friends; a circumstance, of which I was first made ani^are^ in being . awaken* ed, by a kidc on the breast, from the foot of one of my hpste, and by a yell, or Indian cry, which ini- mediately succeeded. At the instant of opening my eyes, I saw that my assailant was struggling #ith one of his companions, who, inxonjunction with several women^ was endeavouring to restrain his ferocity. Perceivkig, however, in the counte- nance of my enemy, the most determined mis* chief, I sprung upon my feet, receiving, in so doing, a wound in my hand, from a knife, which had been raised to give a more serious wound. While the rest of my guardians continued their charitable efforts for my protection, an old woman took hold of my arm, and, making signs that I should accompany heir, led me out of the lodge, and then tm^ AOYBNTURB^ piv6 me to imderstand, that unless I fied, or could (kmccal myself, I should eeitakily beiuUed. My guide was absent; and, without lus direc* tion, I was at a loss where to go. In all the sur* roiuiding lodges, th«% was the same howiing and violence, asm that from which! had escaped. I was without my snow-shoes, and had only s6 imM^i clothing as I had fortunately left upon ml^^|NS& I lay down to sleep. It was now one o'dlk^ in ihe morning, in die mon^ of January, and in a a climate of extreme rigour. I was unable to address a single word, in her own language, to the, old woman who had thus be* friended me ; but, on Repeating the name of Bo^ doine, I soon found that she comprehend^ my meaning ; and, having first pointed to a large^ tree, behind which, she made signs, that until sher could find my guide, I should hide myself, she left me, on this important errand. Meanwhile, I made my way to the tree, and seated myself in the snow. From my retreat, t beheld several Indians, running from one lodge to another, as if to quell the distur- bance ^hich prevailed. The coldness of the atmosphere congealed die Uood about my wound, and prevented further bleeding ; and the anxious state of my mind ren- dered me almost insensible to bodily suffering. At i THAVEU AND lA.la. the end of hilf to hour, I Heard my^lf called, 1>y Bodoine, whom, on going to lum, I found as much intoxicated, and as much a savage, as the Indians themselves ; but, he was nevertheless able to fetch my snow-shoes, from the lodge in which I had left ^em, and to point out tome a beaten path, which presently entered a deep wood, and which he told me I must follow. ' % ^-" - ■ ■ ^ ' . After walking about three miles, I heard, at le|]gth, the foot-steps of my guide, who had now . overtaken me. I thoi%ht it most prudent to ab^, stain from all reproof ; and we proceeded on our v march till sun-rise, when \ve arrived at a solitary ^ Indian hunting-lodge, built with branches of trees, and of which the only inhabitants were ati In^an and his wife. Here, the warmth of a large ire reconciled me to a second experiment on In- dian hospitality. The result was very diffei-ent fit>m that of the one which had preceded it ; for, after relieving my thirst with melted snow, and my hunger with a plentiful meal of venison, of which there was a great quantity in the lodge, and which was liberally set before me, I resumed my jour- ney, full of sentiments of gratitude, such as almost obliterated the recollection of what had befallen me, among the friends of my benefactors. From the hunting-lodge, I followed my guide till evening, when we encamped on the banks of the Saint-Lawrence, making a lire, and sup- V irsij AOV£NTUR£$. •k piiig on the meat with which our wallets had been filled in^the momifig. , i While I indulged myself in rest^ my guide visit- ed the shore, where he discovered a bark canoe, wMchhad been left there, in the beginning of the winter, by some Indian way-fiurers. We were now . at the head of the Longue Sault, ohepf those^por- tions.of the river, in which it passes over a,js}ia|ow, inclining and rocky be^, and where its motion conse* quently prevents it from freezing, even in the cold- est part of the year ; and my guide, as soon as he, had mad^ his discovery, recommended, that wc should go by water down the rapids, as the means of saving time, of shortening our journey, and of avoiding a numerous body of Indians, then hunt- ing on the banks below. The last of these argu- ments was, with me, so powerful, that though a bark canoe was a vehicle tp which I was altogedier a stranger ; though this was a very small one, of only sixteen Or eighteen feet in length,* and much out of repair; and though the misfortune _ wWch I had experienced, in the navigation of these rocky parts of the Saint-Lawrence, when descend- ing with the army, naturally presented itself to my mind, as a still fiirther discouragement, yet I woa not long in resolving to undertake the voyage. Accordingly, after stopping the leaks, as com- pletely as we were able, we embarked, and pro- * • There are still smaller. ' -V '.y THAVELS Aim [A^O. Hi- m deeded; My fears were 'not lismdned, by percdv • ing that the least unskilful motion was sufficient to overset the ticklish craft into which I had ventured ; by the reflection, that a shock, comparatively gbn- tie, from a mass of rock or ice, wi» more than its frail material could sustain ; nor by observing that the ice, which lined the shores of the river, was too strong to be pushed through, and, at the same time, too weak to be walked upon, so that j in the event of disaster, it would be almost impossi- ble to reach the land. In fact, we had not pro* ceeded more than a mile, when our canoe became full of water, and it was not till after a long search, that we found a place of safety. Treading, once more, upon diy ground, I should willingly have faced the wilderness and all its In- diaQs, rather than embark again; but my guide in- formed me that I was upon an island, and I had therefore no choice before me. We istopped the leaks a second time, and recommenbed our voyage, which we performed with success, but sitting, all the way, in six inches of water. In this manner, we arrived at the foot of the rapids, where the river was frozen all across. Here, we disembark- ed upon the ice, walked to the bank, made a fire, and encdmped ; for such is the phrase employ ed* in the woods of Canada. At day -break the next morning, we put on our snow-shoes, and con^menced our journey over ^ ice; and, at ten o'clock, arrived in sight of y^ii} APVENTURES; 9 l^ali^ S^t-^i^sus, . which is from four t6 six m^I^ in brqadth. The wind was )iigh, and the snow, drifting over the e:^panse, prevented us> at times, from discovering the land, and consequent- ]y (fof compass we l^ none) from pursuing, with oertainty^our course* .... ..' . ■■ , ,i Toiyard noon, the storm becanie so violent, that we directed oUr steps to the shore, on th%_.n^b side, by the shcoctest route nire could. ; and, lippng a fire, dined on the remains qf the Indian hunter^s bounty. At two o'clock, ^ ttie afternoon, when the; FJf^ bad subsided, and the atmospher^ grown more clear^ I discerned SLcarwle, or sledge, moving our way, and immediately sent my guide to the driver, with a re^uejst, that he would come to my encampment. On his arrival, I agreed wjidi him to carry me to Les C6dres, a distance^of eight leagues, for a reward of eight dollars. The dri> ver was a Canadian^ who hsd been to the Indian yillage of Saint-Regis, ^ was now on his return to Les Cidres, then thg luppermost white settle- ment on the $aint-]Lawrence. '■ « ■■ ^ • tWtf in the evening, t reached Les C6dre& and Was carried to the house of M* Leduc^ its se^gi^uiiorj by whoin I was politely and hospitaMy rec^i^fcd* M. Leduc being disjposed to converse mdi li^, it became a subject of regretj that neither party un- derstood the language of the other ; but, an intef- 2 •'• A-t io tRAVELS AN^^ [A. 1>. preter was fortunately foimd, in the peracm of a seijeant of Hb Majesty's Eighteenth Regiment of Foot. •ii.iji » it lil.b i now leamedy that M. Ledtic, in the earlier port of his life, had been engaged in the fur^trade, witb the Indians of Michilimackinac and Lake Superior. He informed me bf his ac<|^Uaintance with the In- dian languages^ and his knowledge of furs ; and gave ine to understand, that Michilimackinac was richer, in this commodity, than any other part of the world. He added, that the Indians wered peaceable race of men, and that an European might travel; from one side of the continent to the other, without experiencing insult. Further, he men- tioned, that a guide^ who lived at no great distance fi-bm his house, could confirm the truth of dll that advanced. I, who had previously thought of visiting Michi- iiihackinac, with a view to the Indian trade, gave the strictest attention to all that fell, on this sub- ject, from my host ; ahd, in ordey to possess my- self, as far as possible, of all that might be collected in 'Edition, I requested, that the n-t/fdl^ should be i^tlbr. This man arrived ; and a short convert ^tiofiierminated in my engaging him to conduct ihyscif, and die canoes which I W'as to procure. to Mi^tijUimacl:iBac, in tfiQ montiti of Iw^ IMIoiy* ing. '; :> - . :' ■■'• Th^fe b^iii^, ftt tWs time, no goods in Montreal, adaptecl to the IndiMi tRide, wi}* next business was to proceed to Albany, to make my piirphiis(|s there. This I did in the be^nning of the month of May, by the way of Lake Champlain ; and, on the 15th of Jime, arrived again in Mon|f€fil, bringing with me my outfits. As I was altoge* ther a stranger to the commerce in which I was engaging, I confided in the recommendations, giv- en me, of one Etienne Campion, as my assistant $ a part which he uniformly fulfilled with honesty and fidelity. . His Excellency, General Gage, who now com- manded in chief, in Canada, very reluctantly grant- ed me the permission, at this time requisite, for goingtoMichilimackinac. No treaty of peacehadyet been made, between the English and the Indians, which latter were in arms, under Pontiac, an In- dian leader, of more than common celebrity, and General Gage was therefore strongly, and (as it became manifest) but too justly appreliehsive, that both the property and lives of His Majesty's sub« jects would be very insecure, in the Indian coun- tries. But, he had already granted such permis- sion tp a Mr. Bostwick ; and tliis I was able to em- .■^ i4 TRAvj^Mfi^ [A. a . ) ploy, as an argument against his refusal, in respect to myseE General Gage compiled ; and m th^ 3d day of August, 1761, after some further delay, in obtaming a passport ^m the townrfltttjor, I dis^ patched my canoes to Lachine, there to take in thfirkding, p:\^^-'t .'- '■#r. mat ^ M. ^^AlL jyi^*lii^W;n. CHAPTER IL Fayage from Monirfalto MichtUmackimcy kth noes. Canoe-men* Lachine, Saint-Anne, JUt^ Des Deux Montagnes. Indian mission, J)es0^T tion of part of the river Des Qutaomis. IwSans^ returning from the chace^^their opinion qf the Author's undertaking. Claims of the Algonqwns^ on the banks qf the Outaouais — their regard to the right of property. Leave the Outaouaist and enter the Matawa* THE inland navigation^ from Montreal to Mi- chilimackinac, may be perform£ either by the vray of Lakes, Ontario and Erie, or by the river Bes Outaouais, Lake Nipisingue and the jivpr Des Fran^ais ; for, as well by one as the other of these routes, we are carried to Lake Huron*^ The second is the shortest, and that which is usually pursued by the canoes, employed ii^ the Indian trade. The canoes, which I provided for my untder- taking, were, as is usual, five fathom and a haSi m length, and fotr feet and a half in their ex- treme breadth, and formed of birch^tree bark, a 14 TRAVELS AND [A. DU ■^■■> « I « ^- quarfer of an inch in thidness. The bark is lined with small splints of cedar-wood ; and the vessel is Airther strengthened with ribs of the same w6od, of which the two ends are fastened to the gunwales : several bars, rather than seats, are also laid across the canoe, flrom gunwale to gunwale. T^e small roots of the spruce-tree afford the wattapy with which the bark is sewed ; and the gufli of the pine-tree supplies the pla^e of tar and oakum. Bark, some spare wattap and gum, are always carHed in each canoe^ for the repairs which frequently become necessary. The canoes are worked, not with oars, but with paddles; and, occasionally, with a ^L To each canoe there are eight men ; and to every three or four canoes, which constitute a brigade^ there is a gwdcy or conductor. Skilful men, at double the wa^s of the rest, are placed in th6 head and stem. They engage to go from Montr6al to Michili- ma(JLinac, and back to Montreal again ; the mid- dle-men at one hundred and fifty livres, and the end-men at tla^e hundred livres, each.* The guide has the cbmmand of his brigade, and is an- swerable for all pillage and loss ; and, in return, every man's wages is answerable to him* This regulation was established uiijdcr the French go- verimient. * These p»rticuUr9 may ^ coii||nm«<1 vrith those, of 9 more xnoderQ date, given in the Voyages, of Sir AJexan- jder Mackenzie^ \ft\.) ADVENTURES. li The freight of a canoe, of the subalfnce and di- mensions which I have detailed, conflSBta in sixty pieeei, or packages, ofmerchan^e^ of the weight of from ninety to ahundred pounds each; and provi- sions to the amount of one thousand weight. To this is to be added, the weight erf" eight men, and of eight bags, weighing forty pounds each, one of which every m4n is privileged to put on boards The whole weight must therefore exceed ei|;fat thousard pounds; or may parhi^s be averaged at (burtons. The nature of the navigation, which is to be described. Will suffieiently explain, why the canoe is the only vessel which can be employed along its course. The necessity, indeed, becomes apparent, at the very instant of oiu* departure from Montreal Itself. The Saint-Lawrence, for several mOes, imme- diately above Montr^, descends, Math a rapid cur- rent, over a shallow rocky bed ; insomuch, tbat even canoes themselves, when loaded, cannot resist the stream, .and are therefore sent empty to La- chine, where they meet the merchandize which they are to caity, and which is transported thither by land.* Lachine is about nine miles higher up * La Chincf or China, has always been the point <^ depav- txacCi for the upper countries. It owes its name to the ex- pedi^ns of M. de la Alio, which were fitted out at this ptaccj for the diB9ovcry of a nprth-west passage to China*, , .1. I'll' 16 TRAVB13 AHt> [A. ft th^ nv^f) tta Mon|V|6i|l) and is at.Mie h(ei4 of ^ MiiAf» faU^ or /ra/v, in this part of ^ Saint-Law^ rwf*. O^ttK^ third of August, I ^^t my canoca t^:I^. ^Ine; ai|d| oq tl^^liowhi|^l9V>^^ with them, .for^ Miqhilimackinac. I^he x^gf iSih^re ^^ to be denominated ail|)(e« bylhe title so of Ltd^e Saint- Louia; the pKPspisQt is wide and cheerful; and tfie village has several welI-buUft« houses. ' f'' !n a short time, ^i 111! il '''i; .I'l l;| S m i! : At two o'clock in tiieirftemoon, ive prosecuted our voyage ; and, at sun-set, disembarked, and en- camped, at the foot of the Longue Sault.-^Therc is ^Longue Saitky both on thb river, and on tHe SJttnt-Lawrence. ' At ten leagues, above the island of MontrSalj I paSiBed the limits of the cultivated lands, on the north bank of the Outaouais. On the south, the farms are very few in number ; but the soil has every appearance of fertility. *• ; uiii .;>;In ascending tlie Longue Sault, a distance of three miles, my canoes were three times unkden^ and, together with their freight, carried on the shoulders of the voyageurs. The rocky carrying- pkces are not crossed, without danger of. serious accidents, by men bearing heavy burdens. The Longue Sauk being passed, the Outaouais presented, on either side, only scenes of |)rimitive fcH^st, the connmon range of the deer^ the wolf, the bear and the ^idian. Tb^ curr^t is^here r^ntle. The lands upon, the south are low, and, w^^ I passed th^m, were overflowed ; but, on the northern side, the banks are dryland elevated, with much meadow-land at their feet. The grass^ ' f ICumerous SAd thriving colcmists are noyir enjbying that fertility — 1809. m m I761.J ADyENTUHES. # in some places^ w»s high. Sevei^, iskMis ai^ in this part of the river. Among the iish, of which there are abundance, are cat-fish> of a lai^ size. ■i. ■<.»'-' At fourtedi leagues, alxwe the Longue Sault, we reached a French fort, oc tradinig-house, sur* rounded by a: stockade. Attach^, was a sin^I garden, from .winch we procui^ed sq|ne vegetaUes. The house had no inhabitant* At three leagues further, is ^e mouth <^ tl|0 Hare^river^whicji de- scends &Dm the north ; and here we passed ano- dier trading-house. At a few leagues stiU ^ighe^r on the south-bank, is th^ mouth pf a river four hundred yards wide, and which ^^ into the Ou- taouais perpendicularly, from the edge of arock^ forty feet high. The appearance of this fs|ll, has procured for it the name of the rideau^ or, cur^ tain ; and hence the river itself iscall^ the Ri- deau, or Rivihre du Jtideau, The fall presented itself to my view, with extraordinary beauty and magnificence^ and decorated with a variety of colours. StilK ascending the Outaouais, at three leagues from the fall of the Rideau, is that of La Grande Chaudiere,^ a phenomenon of a different asp^. Here^ on thenorth side of the river, is a deep chasm, |ing across the channel, for about two hun- yards, from twenty-five to thirty feet in * La Grande Chaudih'e^ /. e, the Great Kettle. I-! 'Hi I .4 i m in, 1 if ■ 1 \ ,; l[ Ij i 1 '■' !■ M fo' ' '''' ' w 1 1- rii! rJ ! <■ n I ao THAVfiLS AMD [A. O. de|)t!h, lifld without appatrtnt outlet. In ^lisre- ce|it^cle, a latrge pottion of the river falls perpendl-^ cularly, With a loud noise^ and amid a cloud of spray and vapour ; but, embellished, from time to time$ with die bright and gorgeous ninbomr. The nver, at thia place, is a mile in width. In the laSny seasob, ^e depth of the fidl is lessened, bjr rea6c^ Of the large quantity of water, which if re- ceived into ihecha8in, If61.] ADV^irTURES. 91 and, sometimes, the Second Cbaudi^f€,^iB only duee miles. ■' -' ^ in this part of the voyage, I harrovdy escaped a fiital accident; A thunder-gust having oU%;ed us ^ make the shore, ^ men went into the woods» ftr shelter, while I remained in n^ canoe, under a coreringofbadE. The canoe had been intended to be sufficiently dmwn aground $ but to my conster* nation, it was not long before, wiule thus left akme^ I perceived it to be adrift, and going, widi the current, toward La Grande Chaudi^re. Hap- pily, I made a timely discovery of my situation; and, getting out, in shallow water, was enabled, by the assistance of the men, who soon heard my call, to save my property, along mth my life. At twelve miles, from the secoi^d P six imil^s, iitere are many islands, between which, the Cur^- rent is strong* To overcome the difficulties of this part of the navigation, the canoes first cwrry one half of their loading, and, at a second trip, . Ibe remainder. « Above the isdands, the river is six miles in width, and is called Lake des Ghats. The lake, ^so called, is thirty miles long. . The lands about the lake, are like those of Lake des Chaudieres ; but, higher up, they are both high and rocky, and covered with no other wood than spruce and stunted pine. While padding against the gentle current of Lake des Chats, we met several canoes of Indi"i?*i, returning, from their winter's hunt, to their village, m \J6U} ADVENTURES. 23 at' the lake Des Deux Mohtagnes^ I purchased some of their maple-sugar, and beavar-skins, in ex>^ change for provisions. They wished for rum, which I declined to sell them ; but they behaved civilly, and we parted^ as we had met, in a friendly manner. Before they left us, they inquired; of my mesk, whether or not I was an Englishman, and, being told that I was, they observed, that the £ik glbh were mad, in their pursuit of beaver, ainc^ they could thus expose their lives for it j "for," added th6y, " the Upper Indians will certainly kiE him," meaning myself. These Indiatis^ Md l^^,- their village before the surrender of MontF^fd, and^rr^ I was the first EngUshn^ui they had seen^ • ■* In conviersation with my men, t learned that the Algpnquji^, of the lake Des Deux Montagues, of which , description were the party that I fiad now met, claim all the lands on the Outaomik^as far as Lake Nipisingue ; and that ^ thes^ kttids are subdivided, between their several families, upon whom they have devolyed by iidieritance. I was also informed, that they are exceedin^y strict, as to the rights of property, in ||hs regard, ac- counting an mvasion of them an offence, sufficiently great to warrant the death of the invader. I ^ We now reach©! th^ chani^els of the Grand Calu* met, which lie amid! numerous islands, and are about twenty miles in length. In this distance, tWit arc ':\ >l I I m. I'll 94 TRAVELS AND fA.D. fourcieurrying-placesy* besides tliree or fbur d!f- charges^i or discharges^ yrbkh are pbces Where the merchandize only is carried, and are therefiare distinguishable from jboffti^Cir, or carrytng-plaocs, where the canoe itself is taken out of the water, and transported on men's Moulders* The Jour cany- ing*plaoe%included in the channels, are short; widi the exception of one, called the Portage de la Mon- tagne, at which, besides its length, there is an ac- divity of a hundred &et. On the 10th of July, we had reached the Portage du GrandCalumet, which is at the head of the chan- nels of the same name, and whidi name is derived from the pibrre a calumet, or pipe-stone,| which here interrupts the river, occasiorang a &11 of water. Hiis canying*fkce is long and arduous, consist- ing It a high steep Ml, orer whicdi the canoe can- not Jbe carried iy fewer than twelve men. The method of canymg Ifhe packages, ^ttpieces^ as they are caMed, is the same with that of the In^km women, and iduch, indeed, is »ot peculiar, even to them. One piece rests and hangs uponlhe shoul- ders, being suspended in a fillet/or ibrehead-band ; and upon this is laid a second, which usuaMy fells | * portage Dufort, See. fD^charge des Sables, &c. \ The fiierre a calumet is a compact time-atone, yielding I easily to the knifef and therefore emf>loyed for the bowls of] ttjbaccD-pipesjboth by the Indians and Canadians. W61J] AUVBlfTUHEa .25 htb die hollow of te neek, and afiaists the iMsad^ In its support ctf the burlfini* ■i The ascent of this cfttT^big>plaee it not riart Mguini;, than thtltoeent is ^mtfjcn/as; and^ in ^ performini^ it, acmdents too ofleti oceur, pitMkicini^ strains, fuptures, ami ii^uries for life*^ The oonying^plaGe, and the repairs <£ oinr oa^ noes, which cost us aday, dmuHid ayiat^e IMu^, It is usual ferthe canoesto kAvedieOfiiidCahinpil in good repair ; tihe fwyfttdSr, or liUiiMnrtocdpypi^^ of th^ diSmiel (fitmi yi/hmh the canoes fiuMbi ike c^ief injurf } bein^ wmt pass^ ^^be^^cwrent be- come giende, and^ carrying^phKses less firecpient. The lands, aboi^ the cairyiBg^piaoes, and neaf^ the water; are l6w; and, in the spring, cntkrdy inundated. On die mora&tigi^the ^Mi| we rei^ied # tra- dhigfort, or house, sufi«iBided bf a aiocicaite, which had been bu^ by the Fwodh, and at wfaldi the quantity of peltries received wlus once not in* connderabk. For twenty miles below ^k house, the borders of the iiv«r are peculiarly wett adiqfiied to cultivation. From some Ind&ms, who wel^ en- * A charitable fund is now established in Montml, lor the' relief of disabled and decay^ voyageura» 4 m 'srfX '^, [A. b. camped near the hobse, I purchased fish, dried ahd ';!' I At the rapids, called Des Allumettes, ait two short carrying-plabes, above in^ich is the twihre Cretuef* twenty^-six miles ift lengdi, whti« the water flows, wi^a gtMc cumiit, at the fdnt of* a high, mountainous, barren and rocky Country, on dK kiorth, and has a low and saMy s&il on the >8fmth. On this southern side, is a remarkable liHint of sand, stretching far into the streani, and on Wluch it is-tsu^tomai}^ to baptize novices. Above lie , w^ Creuse, are the two carryhig-places, of th0. length ofo.^ Here, the riyer. call- ed, by thc French, Petite Rivi^re^ ^d^ hy ine In- diai:^, Matawa Sipi» falls i^to the Outaouais. We now left the latter of these rivers, and proceeded to ascend the Matawa. *Mataouan (Matawan), Charlevoix ; MaUwoen>««Mbr- kcnzie^i Voyitgct, f. h. ', .''-'J ■I*! '•7 ! ',.;)■ CHAPTER III. ; ; ' t' ■ /Qyag9 from Montrial to MiehiHmackinae, conti- mied, Mwer Matawa, Lake Mpiringue, Ikighi qf land. MfnHngue9^ Mkm so caU- diy'^their tmtion mid kmguage. AnimaU qf the country. Mouth of the take. Portage . de ta Chaudiire Franfaise. Traces qfthe ancient action (fvfatery at high levels. River des Ftan- ^ais. Embark on Lake Huron, Description qf its northern shores. Isle dela Cloche. Indian FiUage^ Missisakies. Indians persuaded that the Author will be killed, at MtchUimackinac, and therefore demand a share of the pillage. Author disguises himselfj as a Canadian—in what that disguise consists^^meets frequent canoes, filled withlndiansyondis not recognized to bean English- man. Eiver Missisaki. Islands of ManttouaKn. Jndians cultivate maize. River O'tossalon. Island qfMichUimackinac. Indian Village. OUR course, in ascending the Outaouais, had been west-north-west; but, on entering the Matawa, our faces were turned to the south-west. This latter river is computed to be fourteen leagues TRAVELS^ fcc. 29 in length. In the widest parts, it is t hundred yards broad* and in others not more than fifty. In ascending it, there are fourteen carrying.pbioes and discharges, of which some are extremely diflkuh. Its banks are almost two continuous rocks, with scarcely earth enough for the burial of a dead body. I saw Indian graves, if graves they might be caDed, where the corpse was hud upon the bare rock, and covered with stones. In the side of a hiO, on the north side of the river, there is a curious cave, con- ceming which marvellous tales are rekited, by the voyageurs. Mosquitoes, and a minute species of black fiy, abound on this river, the latter of whichare still more troublesome than the former. To ob- tain a respite from their vexations, we were obliged, at the carrying-places, to make fires, and stand in the smoke. On the 26th of August, we reached the Porta- ges i la Vase, three in number, and each two miles in length. Their name describes the boggy j^und of which they^ consist* In passing one of them, we sawmany beaver^housesand dams; and bybre*.. ving one of the dams, we let ofi" ^vater enough to float our canoes down a small stream, which would not otherwise have been navigable. These carr^ing- places, and the interm ^ iate navigation, brought us, at length, to the head of a small river, which fiills into Lake Nipisingue. We had now passed Ac country, of which the streams fall north-eastward. ''li' ki ' '"a ■■:■ m Plik'h I.K ':! ';!i 30 TRAVELS AND (.A. D» into the Outaouais, and entered that from which they flow, in a contrary direction, toward Lake Hu- ron. On one side of the height ofkndy which is the reciprocal boundary of these regions, we had kit Lake aux Tourtres and the river Matawa ; and before us, on the other, was Lake Nipisinguel The banks of the little river, by which we descended into the lake, and more especially as we approadi- ed the lake, were of an exceedingly delightful ap- pearance, covered with high grass, and aiictfdmg an extendve prospect. Both the lake and river abound in black bass, ^sturgeon, pike and other fish. Among the pike, is to be included the spe- cies, called, by the Indians, masquinong^. In two hours, with the assistance of an Indian, we took as much fish as all the party could eat. Lake Nipisingue is distant two hundred leagues from Montreal. Its circumference is said to mea< sure one hundred and fifty miles, and its depth is sufficient for vessels of any burden. On our voyage, along its eastern banks, we met some canoes of Indians, who said they lived on the north-western side. My men informed me that they were Nipisingues, a name which they derive from the lake. Their language is a dialect of the Algonquin; and, by nation, they are a mixture of Chipeways and Maskegons. They had a large quantity of furs, part of which I purchased. The animals, which the country affords them, are the yit'^-. irei.] ABVENTURES. 31 beaver, marten, bear and o'^, a'/»c, or, earUMJu^c^ species ofdeer, by some called the mn-ids(, full of danger to the cimoes and the men, after which it enters Liake Huron by se- veral arms, flowing through each, as thiEough a mill- race. The river Des Fran^ais is twenty leagues in Ieiigth,andhas,maiiy islands in its channel. Its banks areun^Mndyof rock. Among ^he carry ingf places, tit which we auccesuvely arrived, are the Portage des Pins, or, du Pin ; de la Gnmde Faucille ;* de la Pet^ FaiK^ille; and du Saolt du Recolett Near the mouth of the river, a meadow, called La Prairie des Fran^sus, varies, for a short space, the rocky sur&ce, which so gemaially prevails ; and, oi^ |his spot, we encan^ed, and repaired our canoes. Hie carryiBg-^places were now all passed, and what re- muned was, to cross ^ billows of Lake Huron, which lay stretched aat>ss our horizon, like an ocean. ■M m ! ' m On the thirty-first day of August, we entered the lake, the waves running high, from the south, and breaking over numerous rocks. At first, I thought the prospect alarming ; but the canoes rode on the m * jFauciUe,Tr, a sickle, t So called, perhaps, on account of the resemblance of dus Sault to that of the Sault duRecOlet, between the islands of Mcmtreal and Jesus, and which h%^ its name from the death of a Recolet) or Franciscan friar, who was there drowned. Mil 1761.] ADVENTURES. •33 water tvith the ease of a sea-bird, and my apprehen- sions ceased. We passed Point de Grondines, so called, from the perpetual noise of the wnter among the rocks. Many of these rocks are sunken, ami not without danger, when the wind, as at this time it was, is from the south. We coasted along many small islands, or rather rocks, of more or less extent, either wholly bare, or very scantily covered with scrub pine-trees. All the land to the northward is of the samfe description, as high sis Clia'ba'bou'an'ing', where verdure re- appears. Oh the following day, we reached an island, call- ed La Gloche, because there is here a rock, stand- ing on a plain, which, being struck, rings like a bell. I found the island inhabited by a large village of Indians, whose behaviour was at first full of civi- lity and kindness. I bartered away some small ar- ticles among them, in exchange for fish and dried meat ; and we remained upon friendly terms, till, discovering that I was an Englishman, they told my men, that the Indians, at Michilimackinac, would not fail to4ill me, and that, therefore, they had a right to a share of the pillage. Upon this principle, as they said, they demanded a keg of 5 - »i [ i; ... ' .it'" lllii <':r ■ If* i;!i:' I inff l.ii :. i ''t ^if lif l.'fl't: '.HHlii !':p lliii' lli ?igi/ii.;. i l{ i::\- m I'-i! i:t' m U TRAVELS AND CA. p. rum, adding, that if not giveii thiem, they wqu14 proceed to take it. I judged it prudent to comply v on condition, however) that I should experience, at this place, no further molestation. The condition was not unfaithfully observed ; but the repeated warnings which I had now re- ceived, of sure destruction at Michilimackiiiac^ couki not but oppress my mind. I could not even yield myself, without danger, to the course sug- gested by my fears ; for my provisions were nearly exhausted, and to return, w^ therefore, almost impracticable. V The hostility of the Indians ivas exclusively against the English. Between them, and my Ca- nadian attendants, there appeared the most cordial good will. This circumstance suggested one means of escape, of which, by the advice of my friend, Campion, I resolved to attempt availing my- self » and which was, that of putting on the dress^ usually worn by such of the Canadians as pursue the trade into which I had entered, and assimilating myself, as much as I wa^ able, to their appeanmce and manners. To this end, I laid aside my f^nglish clotlies, and covered myself only with a cloth, pa^s- cxl about the middle ; a shirt, hanging loose; a mol- ton, or blanket coat; and a large, red, milled worsted cap./' The next thing was to smear my face and hands, with dirt and grease ; and, this done, I took the place of one of my men, and, when ir6i.3 AbVENTURfeS. %$ Indians approached, used the paddle, with as much skill as I possessed. 1 had the satisfaction to find, that my disguise enabled me to pass several-canoes, without attracting the smallest notice. In this manner, I pursued my v^grage to the mouth, or rather mouths, of the Miidsaki, a river which descends from the north,^d of which the name imports,^ that it has sevend t^ifths, or outiets. From this river, all the Indiari^ inhabiting the north side of Lake Huron, are called Missisakies. iTiere is here a plentiful sturgeon-fishery, by which those, that resort to it, are fed during the summer months. On our voyage, we met several Missisakies, of whom we bought fish, and from whose stock we might easily have filled all our canoes. From the Missisaki, which is on the north ^horc of Lake Huron, to Michilimackinac, which is on ^e south, is reckoned thirty leagues. The Wke, which here approaches Lake Superior, is now contracted in its breadth, as well as filled with islands. From the mouth' of the river Des Fraiii. 9ais, to the Missisaki, is reckoned fifty leagues, with many islands along the route. The lands everywhere, fit}m the island x>f La Cloche, are poor ; with the exception of thosQ of the isknd of 3d TRAVELS AND [A.D. T pill' 1:;! .l^ "llltil':'' M' iili!|i"it;, r'li" : M' \i' rl'ii Manitoiialin, a hundred miles in length,* where they are generally good. On all the islands, the Indians cultivate small quantities of maize. From the Missisaki, we proceeded to the O'tos- saIon,t and thence across the lake, making one island after another, at intervals of from two to three leagues. The lake, as far as it could be seen, tended to the westward, and became less and less broad. # The first land, which we made, on the south shore, was that called Point du Detour, after which, we passed the island called Isle aux Outardes, and then, leaving on the rig^t, the deep bay of Boutchitaouy came to the island of Michilimackinac, distant, from Isle aux Outardes, . * .The Isle Manitijualin was ibrmerly so described. It is now known, that there is no island in Lake Huron, of a hun- dred miles in length, and that the ManitouaUn are a chain of islands. The French writers on Caninda, speak of the Isle Manitoualin, as inhabited, in their time, by the Amir koves (Amicways, Amicawac), whom they called a family (and sometimes a nation), deriving its origin from the Great Beaver, a personage of mythological importance. The name Mcmiioualiny implies the residence of Afanitoe»f or genii, a distinction vei*y commonly attributed to the islands, and sometimes to the shores, of Lakes Huron^and Superior, and of which, further examples will present themselves,, iiii the course of these pages, t Also written, Teasaloriy Tkeaaalouy and dea Tessalons. I'M )T.«».3 ADVENTURES. 37 tlu'ce leagues. On our way, a sudden squall re- duced us to the point of throwing over the cargoes of our canoes, to save the latter from filling ; but the wind subsided, and we reached the island in safety. The land, in the centre of this island, is high, and its form somewhat resembles that of a turde's back. Mackinac, or Mickinac, signifies a turtle^ and miehi (mishi)^ or missi, signifies great, as it does, also, several, or many. The common inter- pretation, o{ the word, Michilimackinacy is the Great Turtle. It is from this island, that the fort, com- monly known by the name of Michilimackhiac, has obtained its appellation. On the island, as I had been previously tauglit to expect, there was a village of Chipeways, said to contain a hundred warriors. Here, I was fearful of discovery, and consequent ill-treatment ; but after inquiring the news, and, particularly, whether or not any Englishman was coming to Michilimacki- nac, they suffered us to pass, uninjured. One man, indeed, looked at me, laughed, and pointed me out to another. This was enough to give me some uneasiness ; but, whatever was the singularity )ie perceived in me, both he and his friend retire^ without suspecting me to be an Englishman.. len Teasalons. z'->>i' ' 1: ii!':;!!i!' CHAPTER IV. Fort Mtchiiimacfnnac. Chipewaysy of the Island of MtchiRmackinaC'— 'their appearance — demean- our-— and treatment qf the Author. Otawas, of the village of L^Arbre Croche^^their condition — their treatment of the Author and others. Arri- val of a British garrison, f LEAVING, as speedily as possible, the island of Michilimackinac, I crossed the strait, and land- ed at the fort, of the same name. , The distance, from the island, is about two leagues. I landed, at four o'clock in the afternoon. v.v\\\ Here, I put the entire charge of my effects into the hands of my assistant. Campion,^ between whom and myself it had been previously agreed, that he should pass for the proprietor ; and my men Were instructed to conceal the fact, that I was an En- glishman. Campion, soon found a house, to which I reti- red, and where I hoped to remain in privacy ; but the men soon betrayed my secret, and I was visited by the inhabitants, with great show of xiivility. \ THAVELS, ^c. 39 )1e, the island They assured me, that I could not stay at Michili- mackinac without the most imminent risk ; and strongly recommended* that I should lose no time, in making my escape, to Detroit. Though language, like this, could not but in- crease my uneasiness, it did not shake my determi- nation, to remain with my property, and encounter the evils with which I vrm threatened ; and my spirits were in spme measure sustained by the sen- timents of Campion, in this regard; fqr he declared his belief, that the Canadian inhabitants of the fort were more hostile than the Indians, as being jealous of £ngUsh traders, who, like myself, were penetra- ting into the country. Fort Michilimackinac was built by order of the governor-general of Canada, and garrisoned with a small number of niilitia, who, having fami- liel^ soon became less soldiers than settlers. Most of those, whom I found in the fort, had originally served in the French army. The fort stands on the south side of the strait which i$ between L.ake Huron and Lake Michigan, It has an area of two acres, and is ^closed with pickets of ced^r-wQod;^ and it is so near the water's edge, that, when the wind is in the west, the waves • Thuya occidcntalis. 40 TRAVELS ANb [A. D, : iiJ: : J 'm !i. ,lil|: 'Uii! S. bre^k against the stockade. On the bastions, arc two sinall pieces of brass English cannon, taken some years since, by a party of Canadians, who went on a phindering expedition, against the posts of Hudson's Bay, which they reached by the route of the river Churchill. Within the stockade, are thirty houses, neat in their appearance, and tolerably commodious ; and a church, in which mass is celebrated, by a Jesuit missionary. The number of families may be near- ly equal to that of the houses ; and their subsist- ence is derived from the Indian traders, who as- semble here, in their voyages to and from Montreal. Michilimackinac is the place of deposit, and point of departure, between the upper countries and the lower. Here, the outfits are prepared for the coun- tries of Lake Michigan and the Missisipi, Lake Superior and the north-west ; and here, the re- turns, in furs, are collected, and embarked tor Montr6al. I was not released from the visits and admoni- tions of the inhabitants of the fort, before I received the equivocal intelligence, that the whole band of Chipeways, from the island of Michilimackinac, was arrived, with the intention of paying me a visit. There was, in the fort, one Farley, an interpreter, lately in the employ of the French commandant. 1761] ADVENTURES. 41 He had married a Chipeway womaiii mA was imA to posiess great influence over the nation to which his wife belonged. Doubtful, as to the kind of visit which I was about to receive, I sent for ^s interpreter, and requested, first, that he would have the kindness to be present at the inter* view, and, secondly, that he would inform me of ^ intentions of the band* M. Farley agreed to be present; and, as to the object of the^visit, replied, that it was consistent with uniform custom, that a stranger, on his arrival, should be waited upon, and welcomed, by the chiefs of the nation, who, on their part, always gave a small present, and always expected a large one ; but, as to the rest, declared himself unable to answer for die particular views of die Chipeways, on this occasion, I being an £n- giislunan, and the Indians havkig made no treaty with the EngHsh. He thought that there might be danger, the Indians having jvotested that they would not suffer an Ei^i^mian to remain in their part of die coun^. — This miormsitian vrsa fyr from agreeable ; but there was no resource, ex- cept in fortitude and patience. m *w At two o'clock m the afternoon, the Chipewi^ came to my house, about sixty in number, uad head- ed by Mina'va'va'na', their chief. They walked in singk file, each with lus tomidhawk in one hand, and scalping-knife in the oAer. Their bodies were naked, from the waist upward ; except in a 6 '1 111. »l!'i' i'l' ii m I ' 1 i.i'f f 1' i ■m m TlUiyELS AND [A. D. few exampleci, where blankets were thrown looaely over the shoulders. Their faces were painted with charcoal, worked up with grease ; their bodies, vvith white clay, in patterns of various fancies. Some had feathers thrust through their noses, and their heads decorated with the same.— It is un- n^essary to dwell on the sensations with which I , beheld the approach of ^is uncouth, if not frightful ji^ assemblaire. « ^^mh. iyyuiii4 /' The cliief entered first ; and the rest followed, without noise. On receiving a sign from the former, the latter seated thei!nselves on the .floor. •■• T"' Minavavana appeared to be about fifty years of age. . He was six feet in height, and had, in his countenance, an indescribable mixture of good and evil. — Looking stedfastly at me, where Isat in ceremony, with an interpreter on either hand, and several Canadians behind me, he entered at the same time into conversation with Campion, in- quiring how long it was since I left M(Hitr6al, and observing, that the English, as it would seem, Ave^ brave men, and not afraid of death, since they dared to come, as I had done, fearlessly among their enemies. The Indians now gravely smoked their pipes, while I inwardly endured the tortures of suspense. — At length, the pipes being finished, as well as a ir«i.] ADVENTURES. long pause, by which they were succeeded, Mina- vavana, taking a few strings of wampum in his hand, began the following ^leech : ' <* Englishman, it is to you that I speak^ and I ^ demand your attention ! ** Englishman, you know that the French king isouriather. He promised to be sdch ; and we, in return, promised to be his children.— This promise we have kept. u it ** Englishman, it is you that have made war with this our father. You are his enemy ; and how, then, could you have theboMness to venture among us, his children?— Yqu know that his ene« mies are ours. ^ampion, m- « it <( (( '* Englishman, we are informed, that our father^ the king of France, is old and infirm ; and that beingfatigued, with making war uponyournation, he is fallenasleep. Duringhis sleep, you have taken advantage of him, and possessed yourselves of Ca- nada. But, his nap is almost at an end. I think I hear him already stirring, and inquiring for liis children, the Indians ;— and, when he does awake, what mustbecomeof you? Hewilldestro^ you utterly! TRAVELS AND [A.©. 4« nt'^l 9H!i' i', ■ ii!;i t( i( n (( (C ii (t (( (( Englishman, rithough you have conquered the French, you have not yet conquered tis ! We are not your slaves. These lakes, these woods and mountains, were left to us by our ancestors. They are our inheritance; and we will part \inth them to none. Your nation supposes that wc, like Ac white people, cannot live without bread — and pork'-^aiid beef ! But, you ought to know, that He, the Gieat Spirit and Master of Life, hasprovi^ ded food for us, in these spacious lakes, and on these woody mountains. i'!'i 'ifiiii. « (( and after him to every person in the room.> t Hiis ceremony ended, the chief arose, and gave me his hand, in which he was followed by all the rest. agaiA seated, Minavavanarequestadlhat his young men might be allowed to taste what he called my Enghsh mUir (meaningnan)*.»oblerving, that it was long since they had tasted anjr, and that they were veiy desirous to know, whether or nql there were any difierence between the £ng]ish milk and the Fuenolu nt5f« ^y adventure, on leaving Fort William. Augus* tus, had klit an impression an my muid, which made me tremble when Indians a^ed for rum ; and I would therefore willingly have excused mysdf in this particular : but, being informed that it was I lull \i-'' ■:■■! lan II .1 46 TRAVELS AND [A. D. customary ta comply with the request, and withal satisfied with the friendly declarations which I had feceived, I promised to give them a small cask, at parting. After this, by the tad c^niy interpi^ter, I made a reply to the ^^ech of Minavavana, declaring that it was the good character, which I had hedrd of the Indians, that had alone emboldened me to come among them ; that their late fether, the king of France, had surrendered Canada to the king of En- gland, whom they ought now to regard as their father, and who would be as careful of them as die other had been ; that I had come to furnish them with necessaries, and that their good treatment of me would be an encouragement to others.— l*hey appeu^d satisfied with what I said, repeating eh ! (an expression of approbation) after hearing each particular. I had prepared a present, which I now gave them, with the utmost goodwill. At their departure, I distributed a small quantity of rum. ^^ Relieved, as I now imagined mysnelf, from all occasion of anxiety, as to the treatment which I was to experience, from the Indians, I ^assorted my goods, and hired Canadian mterpreters and clerks, in whose care I was to send them into Lake Michigan, and the river Samt-Pierre, in the coun- try of the Nadowessies; into Lake Superior, among the Chipeways, and to the Grand Portage, for the ADVENTURES. 42 iiorth-west. , Ev^iy thing was ready for their de- parture, when new dangers spnintg upland threat- ened to overwhelm me. 4 At the entrance of Lake Michigan, and at about twenty nules to the west ci Fort Michilimackinac, is the village of L'Arbre Croche, ii^bited by a band of Otawas, boasting of two hundred and fifty fighting men. L'Arbre Croche isdie seat of the Jesuit mission of Saint Ignace de Michili- mackinac, and the pe<^le are partly baptisedy4ind [partly not. The missionary resides oh a ferm^ [attached to the mission, and situated between the [village and the fort, both of which are under his care. * The Otawas of L'Arbre Croche, who," [when compared with the Chlpeways, aj^ar to be much advanced in civilization, grow maize, for the market of Michilimackinac, where this [commodity is depended upon, for provisionii^ the icanoes. The new dangers, which presented themselves^ [came from this viUage erf Otawas. Every diing, I have said, was in readiness, for the departure lof my goods, when accounts arrived of its ap- iproach; and shortly after, two hundred warriiy^ jentered the fort, and billeted themselves in the se- veral houses, among the Canadian inhabitants. |The next morning, they assembled in the house irhich was built for the commandant, or governor, id ordered the attendance of myself, and of two {;• 48 TRAVELS AND other merchants, still later from Montr6al, iiamel^> Messrs. Stanley Goddard, and Ezekiel Solomons. : o: ;■■■ i- mM. iH- )• ,i il m' l|!| i'li:^; . ..^ iiiin After our entering the council-room, and taking our seats, one of the chiefs commenced an address : ** Englishmen,*' said he, *' we, the Ota- ^^ was, were some time since informed of your ar- f^ rival in this country, and of your having brought ^* with you the goods of which we haye need. • At " this news, we were greatly pleased, believing, that *Sdu-oug^ your assistance, our wives and children ^* would be enabled to pass another winter ; but, , ** what was our surprise, when, a few days ago, we were again informed, that the goods which, as we had expected, were intended for us were, on the «Veve of departure, for distant countries, of which '* some are inhabited by our enemies ! These ac- *' counts being spread,our wives and children came '^ to us, crying, and desiring that we should go to ^' the fort, to learn, with our own ears, their truth '^ or falsehood. We accordingly embarked, almost *^aaked, as you see ; and on our arrival here, we '' have inquired into the accounts, and found them **'true. We see your canoes ready to depart, and *'find your men engaged for the Missistpi, and "4j|^ier distant scions. " Under these circumstances, we have consider- *^ ed the al&ir ; fuid you are now sent for, that you '^ may hear our determination, which is, that you «( <( « 1761.] ADVENTURES. 49 ti that you ^mQI give to each of 0r men, young ^' and old, merchandize and ain^unitiq2»,Jft the " amount of fifty beaver-skins, JUfcilift, and for '^ which I have no doubt of their paring you in '< the summer, on their return from then* winter- «ing." A compliance with this demand would have stripped me and my fellow-merchants of all our merchandize ; and., what rendered the alfiur still more serious, we even learned that these Otawas were never accustomed to pay for what they re- ceived on credit. In reply, therefore, to the speech which we had heard, we requested that the demand contained in it might be diminished ; but we were answered, that the Otawas had nothing further to say, except that they would allow till the next day for reflection ; after which, if compliance was not given, they would make no further application, but take into their own hands the property^ which they already regarded as their own, as having been brought into their country, before the conclusion of any peace, between themselves and die English., We now returned, to consider pf our situation ; and, in the evening, Farley, the interpreter, p||d us a visit, and assured us that it was the intention of the Otawas to put us, that night, to death. He ad- vised us, as our only means of safetj% to comply with the demands which had been made ; but, we 7 ^ MfM IWi! i.p M '■:!,>:■:: :i^ ■ i'l 'ill JO TRAVELS AND [A. D. suqiected ou upos our fears the be, rather We trusted it of a disposition to prey atviev^to induce us to abandon ~ lesolVed, however this might id oh the defensive, than submit, house, in which I lived, as a fort ; and armed ourselves, and about thirty of our men, with muskets, Whethef or not the Otawas ever intended violence, we never had an opportunity of luiowing; but the night passed quietly. Early the next morning, a second council was held, and the merchants wer& again summoned to attend. Believing that every hope of resistance would be lost, should we commit our persons into the hands of our enemies, we sent only a refut sal. There was none without, in whom we had any confidence, except Campion, From him we learned, from time to titne, whatever was rumoured among the Canadian inhabitants, as to the designs of the Otawas ; and, from him, toward sunset, we received the gratifying intelligence, that a detach- ment of British soldiery, sent to garrison Michili- mackinac, was distant ocly five miles, and would enter the fort early the next morning, y^lffr at hand, however, as relief was reported to be, our anxiety could not but be great ; for a long night was to be passed/lmd our fate mi^ be deci- ded before the morning. To increase ourmppi^* hensions, about midnight we were informed, that > ir6i.j ADiVfiNTUttES. ^i the Otatiras Were holding a council, at which no white man was permitted to be present, Farley alone excepted i and him we susp^gted, and after* ward positively knew, to be oui* greatest enemy^ We, on our part, remained all nl||^t upon the alert; but, at day-break, to our surpnze and joy, we saw the Otawas preparing to depalt^ By sun- rise, iiot a man of them was left in the fort ; aiicip , indeed, the scene was altogether changed* The inhabitants^ who, while the Otawas were present, had avoided all connection with the Englidi tra- ders, now catne with congratukitions/ They rela- ted, that the Otawas had proposed to them, that if joined by the Canadians^ they would march^ and attack the troc^s which were known to be advan- cing on the fort ; and they added, that it was their refusal which had determined the Otawas to de- part/ At noon, three hundred troops, of the sixtieth regiment, under the command of Lieutenant L^^^lieg marched into the ibrt ; and this mivsyi dissipated alJ our fears^ firom whatever source derived* Afi^r a few days, detachments were sent ^to the Bay des Puans^ by which is the route tp the Missisipi^ and at the mbuth of the Saintr Joseph, which leadb to Illinois* The Indians, from aU quarters^ came to \ their respects to the comn^njdant ;. and the mer- chants dispatched their canoes, though it was now the middle of September, and therefore somewhat I late in the season* l' w # CHAPTER V. fii^i Hi'- I ■|ili:^ '>ri 4 m Ofthepartictttar mode qf victualling the canoes, at Micki&mackinac — and its importance to the trade in furs* Winter amusements at Mich^mack- mac — hunting^-^fishing-^trout-Jislmig* Exorbi' tant price qf grain and beef* Furs the circulating mediumr^heir nominal value, fFhite-fishr-^-and mode of taking it* Anecdote of a Chipeway Chief. Depth qf Snmv^^retum of Spring. TH£ village of L'Arbre Croche supplies, as I have said> the maize, or Indian com, with which the canoes are victualled. This species of grain is prepa- red ifbr use, by boiling it in a strong lie, after which the husk may be easily removed ; and it is next mashed and' dried. In this state^ it is soft and friable, like rice< The allowance, for each man, on the voyage, is a quart a day ; and a bushel, with two pounds of prepared fat, is reckoned to be ^ | numth's subsistence. No other allowance is made, I ofany kind ; not even of salt ; and br^ad is never | thought of. The men, nevertheless, aire healthyJ and capable of performing their heavy labour. This mode of victualling is essential to the IWI.] TRAVELS, «tc. 3d trade, which being pursued at great distances, and in vessels so small as canoes, will not admit of the use of other food* If the men were to be sup- plied with bread &nd pork, the canoes could not cany a sufEciency for six months ; and the ordina- ry duration of the voyage is not less than fourteen. / Thedifficulty, which would belong to an attempt, to reconcile any other men, than Canadians, to this &re, seems to secure to them, and their employers, the monopoly of the fur -trade. The sociable disposition of the commandant ctOL^ bled us to pass the winter, at Michilimackinac,in a manner as agreeable as circumstances would per- mit. The amusements consisted chiefly in shoot- mg, hunting and fishing. The neighbouring woods abounded in partridges* and hares, the latter of which is white in winter ; and the lake is filled with fish, of which the most celebrated 9ce trout, white-fish and sturgeon. * Trout are taken by making holes in the ice, in which are set lines and baits. These are often left for many days together, and in some places at the depthof fifty fathoms; for, the trout having swallow- ed the bait, remains fast, and alive, till taken up. *Iti North' America, there 14 nofidrttidgei but the name is given to more than one species of grouse. The birds, here intended, are red grouse. ' ! !'!!: .■'! 54 TRAYBLSAND |J>LD. This fish, which is found of the weight of firom ten to sixty pounds, and upward, constitutes the prin» cipal food of the inhabitantsr When this fails, they have recourse to maize, but this is Vety ex- pensive, t bought more than a hundred bushels, at forty iivres per bushel. Money is rarely receiv- ed or psud at Michilimackinac, the circulating medium consisting in furs and peltries. In this exchange, a pound of beaver-skiq is reckoned at sixty sols ; an otter-skin, afsix livres i and mar- ten-skins, at thirty sols, each. This is only one half of the real value of the furs ; and it is therefore always agreed, to pay either in furs at their actual price at the fort^ or in cash, to double the amounty as reckoned in furs. m At the same time that I paid the price, which I have mentioned, for maize, I paid at the rate of a dol- lar per pound ibr the tallow, or prepared fat, to mix with it. The nleat itself was at the same price. The Jesuit missionary killed an ox, which he sold by the quarter, taking the Weight of the meat in beaver^skin. Beaver-skin, as just intimated, was worth a dollar per pound* These high prices of grain and beef led me to be very iiidustrious in fishing, fl usually set twenty lines, and visited them jdaily, and often founds at every visit, fish enough to feed a hundred men* White-fish, which exceed the trout, as a delicious 1/61.] ADVian'URES. 55 and nutritive food, are here in astonishing num* bers. In shq>ey they somewhat resemble the shad ; but their flavour is perhaps above all comparison whatever* Those, who live on them for months together, preserve their relish to the end. This cannot be said of the trout. The white*fish is taken in nets, which are set under the ice. To do thi^ several holes are made in the ice, each at such dbtance from that behind it, as that it may, be reached, under the ice. by the end of a pole. A line, of sixty fathoms in length, is thus convey- ed from hole to hole, till it i? extended to the length desired. This done, the pole is taken out, and with it one end of the line, to which the end b then fastened. The line being now drawn back, by an assistant, who holds the opposite extremity, the net is brought under, and a large stone is mac|f &8t to the sinking-line, at each end, and let down to the bottom ; and the net is spread iii the wate^, by lifters on its upper edge, sinkers on its lower, in the usual manner. The fish, running against the net, entangle their gills m the meshes, and are thus detained till taken up. White-fish is used as a bait for trout. They are much smaller than the >ut, but usually weigh, at Michilimackinac, fixmi three to seven pounds. During the whole winter, very few Indians visit- ed the fort ; but, two families, one of which was 56 tRAVELS, «cc. that of a chief, had their lodges on a river, five leagues below ois, and occasionally brought bea- ver-flesh for sale. '",1, .ii i;jrH: ',|l:,; '!"! •'!l' .1: I!" ■^ mm :l.li The chief was warmly attached to the English. He had been taken prisoner by Sir William John- son, at the siege of Fort Niagara; and had received, from that intelligent officer, his liberty, the medal usually presented to a chief, ar^ the British flag. Won, by these unexpected acts of kindness, he had returned to Michilimackinac, full of praises of the English, and hoisting his flag over his lodge. This latter demonstration of his partiality had nearly cost him his life ; his lodge was broken down, and his flag torn to pieces. The pieces he care- fully gathered up, and preserved with pious care ; and, whenever he came to the fort, he drew them forth, aod exhibited them. On these occasions, it grew into a custom, to give him as much liquor as he said was neceissary to make him cry, over the misfortune of losing his flag. The commandant would have given him another ^ but he thought that he could not accept it without danger. The greatest depth of snow, throughout the Reason, was three feet. On the second day of April, the ice On the lake broke up, and the navi- gation was resumed ; and we immediately began to receive, from the Indians around us, large sup- ples of wild-fowl. %k CHAPTER VI. f^otfhgefiomMlchilimackinac to the Sault de Samte- Marie, Description of the Fort, fFhite-JUh^^ singular method qf taking them, ViUage qf Chi- peways. O'pimittish IniniwaCj fTood-IndianSf or Gens de Terres — their condition — mode qf l^fe^^food and clothing. Summer, The Fort receives a Garrison from Michdunaclanae* BEING desirous of vbiting the Sault de S^nte^ Maiie, I left Michilimackinac on the 15th of May, in a canoe. The Sault de Sainte*Marir is distant from Michilimackinac thirty leagues, and I lies in the strait which separates Lake Huron Qrooi [Lake Superior. Having passed Le Detour, a point of land at the [entrance of the strait, our course lay among nume* rous islands, some of which are twenty miles in length. We ascended the rapid of Miscoutinsaki, la spot well adapted for mill-seats, and above which is the mouth of the river of the sallTe name. The llandS) on th^ south shore of this river, are excel* •?;. tr*- 58 TRAVELS AND [A. D. lent. The lake i^ bordered by meadows, and, at a short distance back, are groves of sugar-maple. From this river, to the Sault de Sainte-Marie, is one continued meadow. ■!r,'iii.! i' i'l I'.i' i;^' On the 19th, I reached the Sault. Here was a stockaded fort, in which, under the French govern- ment, there was kept a small garrison, commanded m by an officer, who was called the governor ^ but was m fact a clerk, who managed the Indian trade here, on government account. The houses were four in number; of which the first was the governor's, the second the interpreter's, and the other two, which were the smallest, had been used for bar- racks./ The only family was that of M. Cadotte, the interpreter, whose wife was a Chipeway. I^e fort is seated on a beautiful plain, of about two nfiles in circumference, and covered with luxuriant grass ; and, within sight, are the rapids in ttie strait, distant half a mile. The width of the strait, or river, is about half a mile. TheportagCy or carrying^place, commences at the fort. The! banks are rocky, and allow only a narrow fbot-pati over them. Canoes, half loaded, ascend, on the | south side, and the other half of the load is cairied on men's shoidders. These rapids are beset with rocks of the most dangerous description ; and yet they are the scene II'M.] ADVENTURES. S^ of a fisher>% in which all th^ir dangers are braved, and Miistcied Airlth singular expertness. They are full of white-fish, much larger and more excel- lent than those of Michilimackinac, and which are found here during the greater part of the sea- son, weighing, in general, from six pounds to fifteen. The method of taking them is this : each canoe carries two men, one of whom steers with a paddle^ and the other is provided with a pole, ten feet in length, and at the end of which is afBsed a scoop- net. The steersman sets the canoe from the eddy of one rock to that of another ; while the fisherman, in the prow, who sees, through the pellucid ele- ment, the prey of which he is in pursuit, dips his net, and sometimes brings up, at every succeeding dip, as many as it can contahi. The fish are often crowded together in the water, in great numbers ; and a skilful fisherman, in autumn, will take five hundred in two hours, • n; This fishery is of great moment to the surround- ing Indians, whom it supplies with a large propor- tion of their winter's provision ; for, having taken the fish, in the manner described, they cure them, by drying m the stroke, and lay them up m large quantities. Igoing westward, in the winter, to hunt, Thd village was anciently much more populouSf o'. At the south are also seen a few of tho wandering O'pimittish Ininmac, literally, Men of ^le WdQ4«, and otherwise called Wood*Ini^Uans, ^bid Gens de Terres-^ft peaceabl e and ino£Eensive race, but less conversant with some of the arts of first necessity than any of their neighbours. They have no villages ; and their lodges are so rudely fashioned, as to afford them but veiy inadequate protecidon against inclement skies. The greater part of their year is spent in travelling fiY>m place to place, in search of food. The animiU, on which they chiefly depend, is the hare. This they take in springes. Of the skin, they make cove rings, with much ingenuity, cutting it into narrow strips, and weaving these into a cloth, of the shape of a blanket, , and of a quality very warm and agreeable, The pleasant situation of the fort, and still moreJ the desire of learning the Chipeway language, led me to resolve on wintering in it, in the family of M, Cadotte, no other language than the Chipe- way was spoken. Mm ir«3.] ■0- n During the summer, the weather was sometimes exceedin^y hot. Mosquitoes and bkick-flies were so numerous as to be a heavy counterpoise to the pleasure of hunting. Pigeons were in great plen- ty ; the stream supplied our drink ; and sickness was unknown. In the course of die season, a small jdetachment of troops, undm* the command of Lieutewl Jj mette, arrived to garrison the fort ^ i' '^"' ...it • ■ ' ' mm 'wmmjii !().:.;•, li> it^.i.^ CHAPTER VII. U: il v.. >'' I :" W'i An abundant supply of Fish is obtained at the Fort — but improvidently managed. The Governor's fouse, and others^ burnt, together wrth all the pro- ions of the Garrison. The Soldiers, to avoid famine, are re-embarked for Mxchilimackinac, Method of taking Trout with spears. The Author accompanies the Commandant and Interpreter, on a Journey, by land, to Michilimackinac. The party is twice in danger of starving — it reaches Michilimackinac. Author returns to the Sault, , Account of the Snow- Shoe Evil. Bay ofBoutchi- taouy. Maple-sugar making. Author returns to Michilimackinac. IN the beginning of October, the fish, as is usual, was in great abundance at the Sault ; and, by the fifteenth day of the month, I had riyself taken up- ward of five bundled. These, I caused to be dried, in the customary manner, by suspending them, in pairs, head downward, on long poles, laid horizon- tally, for that purpose, and supported by two stakes, driven into the ground at either end. The fish are frozen the first night after they are taken ; and, by the aid of the severe cold of the ir62.} TRAVELS, &«. 63 winter, they are thus preserved, in a state perfectly fit for use, even till the month of April. Others were not less successful than myself; and several canoe-loads of fish were exported toMichili- mackinac, our commanding officer being unable to believe that hb troops would have need to live on fish during the winter ; when, as he flattered him- self, a regular supply of venison and other food woi^ reach the garrison, through the means of the K dians, whose services he proposed to purchase, out of the large funds of liquor which were sub- ject to his orders. But, all these calculations wei« defeated, by the arrival' of a very serious misfortune. At on^ o'clock, in the morning of the twenty-second day of December, I was awakened by an alarm of fire, which was actuary ra^isr in the houses of the commandant and others. On arriving at the commandant's, I found that this officer Was still within sidb; and, being acquainted with the win- ' dow of the room in which he slept, I procured it to be broken in, in time for his escape. I was also so fortunate as to save a small quantity of gunpow- der, only a few moments before the fire reached all the remainder. A part of the stockade, all the houses, M.Cadotte's alone excepted, all the provi- sionsof the troops, and a considerable part of our . fish, were burnt. i M % TRAVELS AND fA. Oi •■/■'h. ■;ni On consultation, the next day, it Wfts Agreed; tMt the only means which remsuned, at this late period of the season, to preserve the garrison from fe- mine, was that of sending it back to Michilimack* inac. This was itself an undertaking of some peril ; for, had the ice prevented their reaching the place of destination, starving would have become as inevitable elsewhere^ as it threatened to be at the l^ult de Sainte- Marie. The soldiers embarked, and happily reached Michilimackinac on the thirty* first day of the month. On the very next mom- ing, the navigation was wholly closed. i:! !i':,:i!i lii:> i.ji'i ,.: i The commandant, and all the rest, now lived in one small house, subsisting only by hunting and fishing. The woods afforded us some hares and partridges, and we took large trout urith the spear. In order to spear trout under the ice, holes being first cut, of tvfo yards in cir- cumference, cabins of about two feet in height, are built over them, of small branches of trees ; and these are fiirtiier covered witii skins, so as wholly to exclude the light. The design and re- sult of this contiivance isj to render it practicable to discern objects in the water, at a very considera- ble depth ; for the reflection of light from the wa- ter gives that element an opaque appearance, and hides all objects from the eye, at a small dis- tance beneath its surface. A spear-head of iron is fastened on a pole, of about ten feet in lengthv X763.3 ADVENTURES. *4 69 lliis instrument is lowered into the water ; uid the fisherman, lying upon his belly, with his head under the cabin or cover, and therefore over the hole, lets down the figure^)f a fish, in wood, and filled with lead. Round the middle of the fish, is tied^ small packthread ; and, when at the depth of ten fathom, where it is intended to bexmplc^edi^ it is made, by drawing the string, and by the simulta*> neous pressure of the water, to move forward, \ the manner of a real fish. Trout and other fish, deceived by its resemblance, spring toward it, to seize it ; but, by aBexterous jerk of the string, it is instandy taken out of their reach. The decoy is now drawn nearer to the sur&ce; and the fish takes some time to renew the attack, during which the spear is raised, and held conveniently for striking. On the return of the fish, the spear is plunged into its back i and, the spear being barbed, it is eaiuly drawn out oi the water. So completely do the rays of the light pervade the element, that in three fathom water, I have often seen the shadows of the fish, on the bottom, following them as they moved; and thb, when the ice itself was two feet in thick- ness. By these pursuits, and others of a similar kind, we supported ourselves for two months, that is, until the twentieth of February, when we imagined the lake to be frozen, and Michilimackinac there- fore accessible ; and, the commandant wishing to 9 66 TRAVELSiUfD [A. It go to that fort, M^ Cadbtte, myself, two Canadians »and two Indians, agreed to accompany him. 11k Canadians and Indians were loaded witfa|SQ|Bfi parched maize, ^me fish^ a few pieces of scorcfied pork, which had been saved from the fire, and a few loaves of bread, made of flour, which was also partly burnt. \\ I left my feUow-suffisrers, and at three O'clock in tiie afternoon had the {Measure of entering the fort, whence aparty was«ent the next monung,*with provisions. This party return- ed on the third day, brining with it Lieutenant Jemette and the rest, in safety. Major Ethering- ton,, «f the sixtieth regiment, who had arrived in the preceding autumn, now commanded at ^e fort. 1( ^^1 I remained at Michilimackinac until the 10th of March, on which day I sat out on my return to the ^8 TRAVELS AND CA.1^ M |}| ■Hi .,( ill ,. I., I :.y, III'.' ;; I'H Sault, taking the ro^t^ of the Bay of Boutchitaouy, which the ice had^ow rendered practicable. From the bottodf oTthe bay, the course lies iiHI^diijxt line through the.^ood% a journey I perform^ in^ two days, though I was now troubled with a dppr- der, called the snow-shoe evH, proceeding froA an unusual sthain tm the tendons of the -IcKt occamned by the wei^t of tne sn«w.8hoe,«and bringi on In^ flammJation*. The remedy, presoribedrin the coun^ try, is that of laying % jpiece of li^l||i touchwood on the part, and Irving it there till the iesh is burnt tdthe^erve; but thi»%xperiinent, though. I had frequently seen it attended iwith succesa iivothera, I did not think proper to make upofi ni|i|^. 'ii>i« The lands^ between the Bajy of BjputchitaoujiMMMi the Sault, are generally swamp3%exel^ting so much of them as compose a ridge, or mpimtain, running east and west j and which is rocky, and covered with the rq^k or sugar maple, or sugar-wood.^ The season, for makiiig maple-sugar, was now at hand ; and, shortly after my arrival at the Sault,.! removed,* with the other inhabitsmts, to the pl&ce at which we were to perform the manufacture* ■;l ■/;! , A certain part of the ipa]^-woods Slaving been chosen, and wh|(Sh was distant abbut three miles from the fort, a house, tweftty feet long, and fbur- ^ Acer ^»cchann\uii. >■ ires.] ADVENTURES. §Q brokif was begun in the mormng, and before night tnac2« fit for te comfortably rqpeption of ei^ pirsr4)s, and their baggage. It was open at tq>, had a door at each end, and a fire*pkce in the miifle, roniiing the whde length. The next^daf \iit in buckeil^ and conveyed into reser- voirs or vatti of^noosc'-skin) each vat (Containing a hundred gallons. Prom these, we supplied tho ' boilers, of wluch ^liail tv^elve, of from twelve to twenty gajlons "tachf with ftrcs constantly under them, day aiid nig^t. While tlv? women collected the sap, boilei it, and completed the sugar, the men were not less busy in cutting wood, making fires, *and in hunting and fishing, in pait of our supply of food. ^ ' The earMer part of the spring is that best adapts ed to making^ ma{>le>sugar. The sap runs only ' in the day; and it will not run, unless there has been a frost the nfght before. WhSi, in the morn- ing,' there is a dear sun, and the night has left ice of the thickness of a dollar, the greatest quantity i$ produced. I "•?;:; V 70 TRAVELS, kc. ,V! iilv! 1763.] On the twenty-fifth of April, our labour ended, and we returned to the fort, canying. withiis, aa^we found by the scales, sixteen hundred weight of •ugar. We had, besides, thir^-six gall» p. I'm »)!' ' r' '■!l. 72 TRAVELS AND [A. D. who lihould bring si story of the same kind, H pri- spider, to D6troit. The garrison, at this time, Consisted of ninety privates, two subalterns and the commandant ; and the English merchants, at the fort, were four in |unuil4)er. Thus strong, few entertained anxiety con> dinuhg the Indians, who had no weapons but small arms. ' Meanwhile, the Indians, from every quarter, were daily assembling, in unusual numbers, but with every appearance of friendship, frequetiting the fort, and disposing of their peltries, in such a man. ner as to dissipate almost every one's fears. For myself, on one occasion, I took theiiberty of ob- serving to Major Ethering^on, that in my judg- ment, no confidence ought to be placed In them, and that I was informed no less than four hundred lay around the fort. In return, the major only rallied me, on myj timidity; and it is to be confessed, that if this officer) neglected admonitioii, on his part, so did I, oo| mine. Shortly after my first arrival at Michili< mackinac, in the preceding year, a ChipewayJ named Wa'wa'tam', began to come often to my house, betraying, in his demeanour, strong msAs of personal regard. After this had continued for some time, he came, on a certain day, bringing irw.j ADVENTUBES. 7a with him lus whole family, and, at the same thne, a large present, consisting of skins, sugar and dried meat. Having laid these in a heap, he commen- ced a speech, in which he informed me, that some years before, he had observed a &st, devoting him- self, according to the custom of his nation, to soli* iude, and to the mortification of hb body, in the hope lo obtain, ^m the Great Spirit, protection- through all his days ; that on this occasion, he had dreamed of adopting an Englishman, as his son, bro- ther and friend ; that from the moment in which he first beheld me, he had recoghised me as the person whom the Great Spirit had been pleased to point out to him for a brother ; that he hoped that I would not reiiise his present ; and that he should forever regard me as one of his family. I could do no otherwise than accept the present, and declare my willingness to ha ve so good a man, as this appeared to be, for my friend and brother. I offered a present in return for that which I had received, which Wawatam accepted, and then, dianking me for the fiivour which he said that I had rendered him, he left me, and soon afusr set out •D his wimer's hunt Twelve months had now elapsed, since th« oc- currence of this incident, and I had almost forgotten the person of my brother, when, on the second day of June, Wa^'atam came again to my hQusc, in a. 10 % r'S r i V4 TftAVELM AND [A. 1>. m 'i'. I ' ?*1 tfir.pcr ohnind viiibly melancholy and thoughtllil. He told me, that he had just returned from h^H wintering-iftvimdt and I naked after hia health ; but, withmit answering my question, he went on to ^aly, that he was very sorry to find me returned from the Hatilt ; thmt he had intended to go to that place himself, immediately after his arrival at Michilimackinac ; and that he wished me to go there, along with him and his family, the next morning. To all this, he joined an inquiry, \vhcther or not the commandant had heard bad ticMns, adding, that, during the winter, he had him- self been frequently disturtxd with the noise qf rvii birds ; and furtlicr suggesting, that there UTre numerous Indians near the fort, many of whom had never shown themselves within it.— • Wawatam was about forty-five years of age, of an cxcellem character among his nation, and a chief. Hcferringmuch of what I her«tl to the peculiarities -i-Hfi? [A. D. act ofclttrky by which he might perhapt [iitJ«i » c me from die general massacre; but; wMle Flittered xtsf petllkm, M. Laagflade, who haiA looked^ Ibr a mmnait «i mtf, ^Mtied tglm^iHhe^window^ ibnig. giii§ hb shoulders, anMitimaiingy that he eoukl do iMidihig^ forme :«^** Qjue voudntX'Voiu ^efenfe- w J', ■^■i 1 .1 i) if Hi I'l: i' 'III ^^^HBs 'fi''' ''■'■' ||l.' i'l ip: ■■•*' ^HIKft ,'' ■ |i| • Ui ■ ji|| i^Il^^' "-^ fiil ffljlljl; .■rt ■ ■ i; This was a moment for despair ; but, the next, a rani woman,^ a slave of M. Langlade's, becl^on- ed to me to follow her. She brought me to a door, whid|| she opeiK?d, desiring me to enter, and telling me that it led to the garret, where I must go and conceal myself. I joyfiUly obeyed her directions ; aiid she, havii^ fol)oived me up to the garret-door, locked it i^er me, and with great presence of mind took away the key. Tbis shelter cdstaiiied, if shelter I could hope to find it, I was naturally anxious to know what might still be passing without Through an aperture, which afford^ me a view of the area of the fort, I beheld, in shapes tlie foulest and most terrible, the ferocious triumphs of barbarian conquerors. The dead were scalped and mangled ; the dying were writhing and shrieking, under the unsatiat^d knife and tomahawk ; and, from the bodies of some, *The Pnnies are oil Indian iiAtion of the south ■■1.; i.IJJi ;l; ; itWiiiif}.'' II *' Mf ^63,} ADVENTURES. 4 Si ripped open, their butchen were drinking liiflribod, scooped up in the hollow of joined hands, and quaffed unid shouts of rage and victory. I was shaken, not only with horror^ but with fti^. The sufferings which I witnessed, I seemed on the point c»f experiencing. No long time elapsed, before eve* ly one being destroyed, who could be found, there was a general cry, of "All is finished!" At the same instant, I heard some of the Indians enter the house in which I was. The garret was separated from the room belpw, only by a layer of single boards, at once the flooring of the one and the ceiling of the other. I could therefore hear every thing that passed ; and, thr Indians no sooner came in, than they inquired, whether or not any Englishman were in the house? M. Langlade replied, that " He could not say — he " did not know of wiy ;" — answers in which he did not exceed the tru& ; for the Pani woman had not only hidden roe by stealth, but kept my secret, and her own. M. Langlade was therefore, as I pre- sume, as far from a wish to destroy me, as he was careless about saving me, when he added to these answers, that "They might examine for them. " selves, and would soon be satisfied, as to the ob- " ject of their question." Saying this, he brought them to the garret-door. 11 TRAVELS AND CA.D. i'i ^4" m m WMll' 'm !i,ii;ii tiji IM f ill III lilt state of my mind will be imagined. Arrived at the door» some delay was occasioned by the ab« sence of the key, and a few moments were thus allowed me, in which to look around for a hi- ding.place. In one comer of the garret'was a heap of those vessels of birch-bark, used in m]4>le^sugar making, as I have recently described. The door was unlocked, and opening, and the Indians ascending the stairs, before I had complete- ly crept into a small opening, which presented itself, at one end of the heap. An instant after, four Indians entered the room, all armed with toma- hawks, and all besmeared with blood, upon every part of their bodies. The die appeared to be cast. I could scarcely breathe; but I thought that the throbbing of my ^^^Mart occasioned a noise loud enough to betray me. The Indians walked in every direction about the garret, and one of them approached me so closely thatat a particularmoment, hadheputforth his hand, he must have touched me. Still, I remained un- ^discovered ; a circumstance to which the dark co- lour of my clothes, and the want of light, in a room which had no window, and in the comer in which I was, must have contributed. In a word, after taking several turns in the room, during which the} m m 1763.] ADVENTURED 83 toldM. Lang^e how many they had killed, andhow many scalps they had taken, they returned down stairs, and I, with sensations not to be expressed, heard the door, which was the barrier between me and my fate, locked for the second time. There was a feather-bed on the floor ; and, on this, exhausted as I was, by the agitation of ruy mind, I threw myself down and fell asleep. In this state I remained till the dusk of the evening, when I was awakened by a second opening of the door. The person^* that now entered, was M. Langlade's wife, who was much surprised at find- ing me, but advised me not to be uneasy, observ- ing, that the Indians had killed most of the English, but that she hoped I might myself^ escape.-— A shower of rain having b^gun to fall, she had come to stop a hole ifi the^itxjf^ ^On her going away, I begged her to send me; a Bttlc water, to which she did. ^-s4 As night was now advancing, I continued to lie on the bed, ruminating on my condition, but una- ble to discover a resource, from which I could hope for life. A flight, to Detroit, had no pro- bable chance of success. The distance, from Michilimackinac, was four hundred miles ; I was without provisions ; and the whole Icngtli of th(^ road lay through Indian countries, countries of an IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I l^|Z8 |25 ■so ^^" li^^ ■i' tU 12.2 E lit ^" £ IS 12.0 11.25 IIU 1.4 m v r vl / '/ /A Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. US80 (716) 873-4503 ^ ^A^ :/. J \\ ;\ ■^. V- 1 ir > . i n Ml I' »'i il ,..!„i 84 TRAVELS, Scfc. 1763.] * cncimy" in irrhSj where the first ftian whom I should meet would kill me. To stay where I was, threatened nearfy the same issue. As before, fa- tigue of mind, and not tranquUlity, suspended mjr cares, and procured me further sleep. %'*> :''■',{ '■ :i>T,^ft: s .*■ '-( 'ili.Si ^ ..# i I •■'■ i f*.- .^■•'ir, =♦ •*» V CHAPTER X. Means by which the capture of the Fort was ac- complished. Author is betrayed-^surrenders himself to Wenniway^ a Chipeway Chief^and is spared — escapes from an Indian^ who treache- rously attempts his destruction. Sordid inhu- manity of M, Langlade, Author is embarkedy with other captives^ for the Isles du Cdl^or, in Lake Michigan, THE game of baggatiway, as from the descrip- tion above will have been perceived, is necessarily attended with much violencci^^ahd noise. In the ardour of contest, tiie ball, to liibi been suggested!, if it cannot be thfdWil «di1tegoal de^red, is struck in any direction by which it can be diverted from that designed l^ the Adversary. At such a moment, therefore, nothing could be less liable to excite premature alarm, than that the ball should be toss- ed over the pickets of the fort, nor that Having fallen there, it should be followed, on the instant, by all engaged in the game, as well the one party as the other, all ^ager, all struggling, all touting, all in the unrestrained pursuit of a rude athletic exer- ■', .111";'' 'f!i I'M f, JhM ■:!:i i!' $ I'iHf- ;!! ■^li by .-# a pretext the least liable to suspicion, to come volun- tarily without the pickets ; and particularly the comn||ndant atid garrison themselves. The respite which sleep afforded me, during the night, was put an end to by the return of morning. I was again on the rack of apprehension. At sun- rise, I heard the family stirring ; and, presently after, Indian voices, informing M. Langlade that they had not found my hapless self among the dead, and that they supposed me to be somewhere concealed. M. Langlade appeared, from what fol- lowed, to be, by this time, acquainted with the place of my retreat, of which, no doubt, he had been informed by his wife. The poor woman, as sooii as the Indians mentioned me declared to her hus- band, in the French tongue, that he should no longer keep me in his house, but deliver me up to my pursuers ; giving as a reason for this measure, 1763.] ADVENTURES. m that should the Indians discover his instrumentality in my concealment, they might revenge it on her children, and that it was better that I should die, than they. M. Langlade resisted, at firs^, this seir- tence of his wife's ; but soon suffered her to pre- vail, informing the Indians fnat he had been told I was in his house, that I had come there with- out his knowledge, and that he would put me into their hands. This was no sooner expressed than he began to ascend the stairs, the Indians foUowmg upoQ his heels. I now resigned myself to the fate with which I wds menaced; and regarding every attempt at conceal- ment as vain, I arose from the bed, and presented myself full in view, to the Indians who were enter- ing the room. They were all in a state of intoxica- tion, and entirely naked, except about the middle. One of them, named Wenniway, whom I had pi^*" viously known, and who was upward of six feet iti height, had his entire face and body covered with charcoal and grease, only that a wliite spot, of twp inches in diameter, encircled either eye. This man, walking up to me, seized me, with one hand, by the collar of the coat, while in the other he held a large caiving-knife, as if to plunge it into my breast ; his eyes, meanwhile, were fixed stedfast- ly on mine. At length, after some seconds,, of the most anxious suspense, he drc^ped his %■ MJ;!'; '/j^ |ji. W:'M '■ ';■.« >\ T*] ij,1 '4, '} ] 1 ',l2 . ■ '1 '(■.'■ , 1^ ■■■" ■it.' '.^ -t:: 4. >t "11 . ,;*'•■ i '"'■'- '■ ""I'll 'P i'i: I! 'l: 88 TRAVELS AND [A. D. arm, saying, *M won't kill you!" — To this he added, that he had been frequently engaged in wars against the English, and had brought away many scalps ; thgt, on g certain occasion, he had lost a brother, whose name was Mus'jiigon, and that I should be called after him. A.reprieve, upon any terms, placed me among the living, and gave me back the sustaining voice of hope ; but Weriniway ordered me down stairs, and there informing me that I was to be taken to his cabin, where, and indeed every where else, the Indians were all mad with liquor, death again was threatened, and not as possible only, but as certain. I mentioned my fears on this subject to M. Langlade, begging him to represent the danger to my master. M, Langlade, in this instance, did riot withhold his compassion, and Wenniway imiifiediately consented that I should remain where I was, until he found another opportunity to take me away. Thus far secure, I re-ascended my garret-stairs, in order to place myself, tlie furthest possible, out of the reach of insult from drunken Indians ; but, I had not remained there more than an hour, when I was called to the room below, in which was an Indian, who '.aid that I must go with him out of the fort, Wenniway having sent him to fetch ires.} ADVENTURES, 85) me. This mail, as well aii Wenniway himself, I had seen before. In tH^ preceding yeai*, I had al- lowed him to take goods on credit, for wliich he was still in my debt j and some short time previ- ous to the surprise of the fort he had said, upon my upbraiding him with want of honesty, that " He " would pay me before long !" — This speech now came fresh into my memory, and led me to sus|)ect that the fellow had formed a design against m]|/; life. I communicated the suspicion to M. Lan- glade ; but he gave for answer, that " I was not ^* now my own master, and must do as I was " ordered." » The Indian, on his part, directed, that before 1 hh the house, I should undress myself, declaring that my coat and shirt would become him better than they did me. His pleasure, in this respect^ being complied with, no other alternative was left me than either to go out naked, or to put on the clothes of the Indian, which he freely gave me in exchange. His motive, for thus stripping me of my own apparel, was no other, as I afterward learned, than this, that it might not be stained with blood when he should Jcill me. I was now told to proceed; and my driver fol- lowed me close, until I had passed the gate of the fort, when I turned toward the spot where I knew the Indians to be encamped. This, however, did ^ 12 ,'» !/'■ ; ': ,1 . 'i mm I m '* ipi'! IP) i!^!!'' ,.,:>»;* Ill mm m 90 TRAVELS AND [A. D. ^•■ not suit the purpose of my enemy, who seized me by the arm, and drew me violently, in the opposite direction, to the distance of fifty yards, above the fort. Here, finding that 1 was approach- ing the bushes and sand-hills, I determined to pro. ceed no further, but told the Indian that I believed he meant to murder me, and that if so, he might as well strike whefe I was, as at any greater dis- tance. He replied, with coolness, that my suspi« cions were just, and that he meant to pay me, in this manner, for my goods. At the same time, he produced a knife, and held me in a position to re- ceive the intended blow. Both this, and that which followed, were necessarily the affair of a mom€nt By some effort, too sudden and too little dependent on thought, to be explained or remembered, I was enabled to arrest his arm, and give him a sudden push, by which I turned him from me, and released myself from his grasp. This was no sooner done, tlian I ran toward the fort, with all the swiftness in my power, the Indian following me, and I ex. pecting every moment to feel his knife. — I suc- ceeded in my flight ; and, on entering the fort, I 3aw Wenniway, standing in the midst of. the area^ and to him I hastened for protection. Wenniway desired the Indian to desist ; but the latter pur- sued me round him, making several strokes at me witli his knif^, and foamingi^t the mouth, with rage at the repeated failure of his purpose. At length, Wenniway drew near to M.Langlade's hOuse; i763j ADVENTURES. 91 and, the door being open, I ran into it. The Indian followed me ; but, on my entering the house, h^ voluntarily abandoned the pursuit. Preserved so often, and so unexpectedly, as it had now been my lot to be, I returned to my garret with a strong inclination to believe, that through the will of an overruling power, no Indian enemy could do me hurt ; but, new trials, as I believed, were at hand, when, at ten o'clock in the evening, I was roused from sleep, and once more desired to descend the stairs. Not less, how^ever, to my satisfaction than surprise, I was summoned only to meet Major Etherington, Mr. Bostvvick and Lieutenant Lesslie, who were in the room below. These gentlemen had been taken prisoners, while looking at the game, without the fort, and imme* diately stripped of all their clothes. They were now sent into the fort, under the charge of Canadians, because, the Indians having resolved on getting dnmk, the chiefs were apprehensive that they would be murdered, if they continued in the camp.— Lieutenaoit Jemette and seventy soldiers had been killed; and but twenty Englishmen, including sol- diers, were still alive. These were all within the fort, together with nearly three hundred Cana- dians.* • ide's h6use; Beloriging to the canoes, &c. r! i (^ ! : 1- i 1 '!■ : i ; I .^ > 92 TRAVELS AND [A. D. These being our numbers, myself and others proposed to Major Etherington, to make an effort for regaining possession of the fort, and maintain, ing it against the Indians. The Jesuit missionary %vas consulted on the project ; but he discouraged us, by his representations, not only of the merciless treatment which we must expect from the Indians, should they regain their superiority, but of the little dependence which was to be placed upon our Ca- nadian auxiliaries. Thus, the fort and prisoners remained in the hands of the Indians, though, through the whole night, the prisoners and whites were in actual possession, and they were without the gates. That whole night, or the greater part of it, was passed in mutual condolence ; and my fellow-pri* soners shared my garret. In the morning, being again called down, I found my master, Wenniway, and was desired to follow him. He led me to a small house, within the fort, where, in a narrow room, and almost dark, I found Mr. Ezekiel Solo- mons, an Englishman froln Detroit, and a soldier, all prisoners. With these, I remained in painful suspense, as to the scene that was next to present itself, till tea o'clock, in the forenoon, when an Id- dian arrived, and presently marched us to the lake- side, where a canoe appeared ready for departure, and in which we found that we were to embark. 1763.] ADVENTURES, ftS Our voyage, full of doubt as it was, would have commenced immediately, but that one of the In- dians, who was to be r^ the party, was absent. His arrival was to be waited for ; and this occasioned a very long delay, during which we were exposed to a keen north-east wind. An old shirt was all that covered me ; I suffered much from the cold ; and, in this extremity, M. Langlade coming down to the beach, I asked him for a blanket, promising, if I lived, to pay him for it, at any price he pleased : but, the answer I received was this, that he could let me have no blanket, unless there were some one tp be security for the payment. For myself, he ob- served, I had no longer any property in that coun- try.— I had no more to say to M. Langlade ; but, presently seeing another Canadian, named John Cuchoise, I addressed to him a similar request, and was not refused. Naked as I was, and rigorous as was the weather, but for the blanket, I must have pe- rished.— At noon, our party was all collected, the prisoners all embarked, and we step red for the Isles du Castor, in Lake Michigan. vV ri:f^^ '.^ M im'Vi^ fit 11' I" : 'H lii! I I !^ :.'i!!li. 'ili'li'fHW*':;' CHAPTER XI. Author and fellow-prisoners rescued^ by the Otawas of VArbre Crochc — relanded at Michilimacki- nac-^restored to the ChipewayS'-^lodged with other prisoners* Author sees and is recogtiised by ffawatam. THE soldier, who was our companion in mife. totune, was made fast to a bar of the canoe, by a rope tied round his neck, as is the manner of die Indians, in transporting their prisoners. The rest were left unconfined ; but a paddle was put into each of our hands, and we were made to use it. The Indians in the canoe were seven in number ; the prisoners four. I had left, as it will be recoK lected, Major Etherington, Lieutenant Lesslie and Mr. Bostwick, at M. Langlade's, and was now joined in misery with Mr. Ezekiel Solomons, the soldier, and the Englishman who had newly arrived from Detroit. This was on the sixth day of June. Tlie fort was taken on the fourth ; I surrendered myself to Wenniway on the fifth ; and this was the third day of our distress. '^■, 1763.] TRAVELS, «c. 95 We were bound, as I have said, for the Isles du Castor, whic li lie in the mouth of Lake Mi- chigan ; and we should have crossed the lake, but that a thick fog came on, on account of which the Indians deemed it safer to keep the shore close un* der their lee. We therefore approached die lands of the Otawas, and their village of L' Arbre Croche, al- ready mentioned as lying about twenty miles to the westward of Michilimackinac, on the opposite side of the tongue of land on which the fort is built. Every half hour, the Indians gave their war^ whoops, one for every prisoner in their canoe. This Is a general custom, by the aid of which all other Indians, within hearing, are apprized of the nun)|^r of prisoners they are carrying. In this manner, we reached Wagoshense,* ii K>ng point, stretching westward into the lake, and which the Otawas make a carrying-place, to avoid going round it. It is distant eighteen miles from Michilimackinac. After the Indians had made their war- whoop, as before, an Otawa appeared upon the beach, who made signs that we should land. In consequence, we approached- The Otawa asked the news, and kept die Chipe- ways in further conversation, till we were within a ftw yards of the land, and in shallow water. At mt\ tr Ifii ;-'J •:. Mi's * i. c. Fo'S-point. ^.?* ic, , Bf ■ '' ' W-"' mjj,; ■' ' ■ '^\ \ ■' r! I ,.( m'ii- 96 TRAVELS AND [A. P. this moment, a hundred men rushed upon us, from among the bushes, and dra^;ed all the prip oners out of the canoes, amid a terrifying shout. We now believed that our last sufferings were approaching ; but, no sooner were we fairly on shore, and on our legs, than the chiefs of the party advanced, and gave each of us their hands, telling us that they were our friends, and Otawas, whom the Chipeways had insulted, by destroying die English without consulting with them on the afl^ir. They added, that what they had done was for the purpose of saving our lives, the Chipeways having been carrying us to the Isles du Castor onlf to ^1 and devour us. 'i' ji I 1 b'MuU The reader's imagination is here distracted by the variety of our fortunes, and he may well paint to himself the state of mind of those who sustained them ; who were the sport, or the victims, of a series of events, more like dreams than realties, more like fiction than truth ! It was not long before we were embarked again, in the canoes of the Otawas, who, the same evening, relanded us at Michilimackinac, where they marched us into the fort, in view of the Chipeways, confounded at beholding the Otawas es^oujse a side opposite to their own. The Otsawas, who had accompanied us in suffi- cient numbers, took possession of the fort. We, t ■■■ -■■-■ .^' ir^3.] ia>VENtUR|iSi. ar Yfhp h^d ohangc^d masters, but were still prisonerQ, i^ere JMIgiExl 'm the house of the command^ti an(l strictly guided. H Early the next moming, a general council was held, in which the Chipcways complained much of the conduct of the Qtawas, in robbing them of their prisoners ; sieging that all the Indians, the Ota- was alone excepted, were at war with the English ; that Pontiac had taken Detroit ; that the king of Fr^ce had awoke, and repossessed himself of Quebec and Montreal ; and that tl^e English were meeting destruction, not only at Michilimackinac, b^t in every other part of the world. Froirn all fljs they inferred, that it became the Otawas to re- store the prisoners, and to join in the war ; and the speech was followed by large presents, being part of the plunder of the fort, and which was previously heaped in the c^tre of the room.— The Indians rarely make the;r answers till the day after they have hesird the arguments offered. They did not dep^ from their custom on this occasion ; and the council therefore adjourned. ^,^e, the prisoners, whose fate was thus in con- troversy, were unacquainted, at the time, with this transaction ; and therefore enjoyed a night of tolerable tranquillity, not in the least sus- pecting the reverse which was preparing for us. Which of the arguments of the Chipeways, or whe- 13 !v:-'':i; fi^:!-% m M!':„ 'li !i fl I! .ii 1- !,:':.. i''. • '■!• :^':|| 98 TRAVELS AND [A.D. ther or not all were deemed valid by the Otawas, I cannot say; but, the council was resumed at an early hour in the morning, and, after several speeches had been made in it, the prisoners were sent for, and returned to the Chipewa3rs. The Otawas, who now gave us into the hands of the Chipeways, had themselves declared, that the latter designed no other than to kill us, and make broth of us. The Chipeways, as soon as we were restored to them, marched us to a village of their own, situate on the point which is below the fort, and put us into a lodge, already the prison of fourteen soldiers, tied two atid two, w^ each a rope about his neck, and made fast taa pole which might be called the supporter of the building, I was left untied ; but I passed a night sleepless and full of wretchedness. My bed was the bare ground, and I was again reduced to an old shirt, as my entire apparel ; the blanket which I had received, through the generosity of M. Cuchoise, having been taken from me among the Otawas, when they seized upon myself and the others, at Wagoshense. I was, besides, in want of food, having for two days ate nothing. \ I confess that in the canoe, with the Chipeways, I was offered bread— -but, bread, with what iN!''i'i'li'p-^ 1%: ires.] ADVENTURES. n tccompaniment! — They had a loaf, which they cut with the same knives that they had employed in the massacre— knives still covered with blopd. The blood, they moistened with spittle, and rubbing it on the bread, offered this for food to their prisoners, telling them to eat the blood of their countrymen. Such was my situation, on the morning of the seventh of June, in the year one thousand seven hundred and sixty-three ; but, a few hours produ- ced an event oivhich gave still a new colour to my lot. Toward noon, when the great war-chief, in com- pany with Wenniway, was seated at the opposite end of the lodge, my friend and brother, Wawatam, suddenly came in. During the four days prece- ding, I had often wondered what had become of him. In passing by, he gave me his hand, but went immediateljr toward the great chief, by the side of whom and Wenniway, he sat himself down. The most uninterrupted silence prevailed ; each smoked his pipe; and this done, Wawatam arose, and left the lodge, saying, to me, as he pass- ed, ** Take courage !" I ■# # ■rt! 'I* 1 i iM!M,il|.i;| :' lU! i I |l|j ! 'I I) I, ;;fii v:rL ........ ■.-cBAPtteR XII. -.-'-^^f Indian Council. Speech of JFawatam, Spaeth of Menekwehna, JVawatam obtains the Author^s fieedom^ and carHes him to his own lodge. Seven prisonefrs killed. A war-feUst dn htMian fitsh. Messages of invitdtibn. English ckrioe ari^eis Jrdm MoritrM'-^phindered, and passeHgeris made prisoners. Fate of the Garrison and ErigHsh Traders, who fell into the hands of the Indians^ nt Michilimackinac, • ' '■ « ,jf ; ■ -.1- ^,11" Jf - ■ . J ' , ' _ , , . ■ ! r '< * f S .■ . . ^ > -I , AN hbtir daps6d, during which Several chiefs entefed, and preparations iippeared to betiuJcing for a council. At length, Wawatam re-ent*e4thfe lodge, followed by hi^ wife, and both loaded witih mierchandize, which they carried up to the chiefs, and laid in a heap before them. Some 'moments of silence followed, at the eftd of ivhich Wawatam pronounced a speech, every word of whibh, to me, was of extraordinary interest : >■ t^rfii'i' 1 r * ' ■ " Friends and relations,'* he began, " what is it " that I shall say ? You know what I feel. You " all have friends and brothers and children, whom '* as yourselves you love; and you — what would 1763.] TRAVELS, 8cG. 101 *^ you experience, eing|io>v desirpue of manifesting to the IndisMi|9 atlafge, his l^eajrty concurrence in what they had done, had gone ipto the prison-lodge, an4 there, with his knife, put the seven men, wiiose bodies I had seen, to 4cath* l';l':i'U.i I'!m; W n''i; a! : ! i .;' :':! m m ;:;< Ki: I- |hi,| ijlji I;::::.'"!!!!':;!!'' '1 m it" fiil II if * ■l-i "ill >' . Shortly after, two of the Indians took one of the dead bodies, which they chose as being the fattest, cut off the head, and divided the whole into five parts, one of which was put into each of five kettles, hung over as many fires, kindled for this purpose, at the door of the prison-lodge. Soon after things were so far prepared, a message came to our lodge, wttli an invitation to Wawatam, to assbt at the feast. :''■ ' ' , V .'ill-'. ; , An invitation to a feast is given by him who is the master of it. Small cuttings of cedar^wood, of about four inches in length, supply the place of ^iards ; and the bearer, by word of mouth, state? the particulars. ,; Wawatam obeyed the summons, taking witli him, as is usual, to the place of entertainment, his dish and spoon. After an absence of about half^ an hopr« he.4^ turned, bringing in his dish a human hand^ and 1763.] ADVENTURES. 105 a large piece of flesh. He did not appear to relish the repast, but told me, that it was then, and always had been the custom, among all the Indian nations, when returning from war, or on overcoming their enemies, to make a war-feast, from among the sjain. This, he said, inspired the warrior with courage in attack, and bred him to meet death with fearlessness. In the evening of the same day, a large canoe, such as those which came from Montreal, was seen advancing to the fort. It was full of men, and I distinguished several passengers. The In- dian cry was made in the village ; a general muster ordered ; and, to the number of two hundred, they marched up to the fort, where the canoe was ex- pected to land. The canoe, suspecting nothing, came boldly to the fort, where the passengers, as being English traders, were seized, dragged through the water, beat, reviled, marched to the prison- lodge, and there stripped of their clothes, and con- fined. ^i" Of the English traders that fell into the hands of the Indians, at the capture of the fort, Mr. Tracy was the only one who lost his life. Mr. Ezekiel Solomons and Mr. Henry Bostwick were taken by the Otawas, and, after the peace, carried don^ to Montreal, and there ransomed. Of ninety troops, 14. ,.;.lr';i','". 'iijM ■ 'i!:';'jl, ;i I' *•■ 106 TRAVELS, kc. ir63.] about seventy were killed ; the rest, together with those of the posts in the Bay des Puants, and at the river Saint-Joseph, were also kept in safety by the Otawas, till the peace, and then either freely restored, i JOT ransomed at Montr6al. The Otawas never over. opufe ihar jdisgust, at the neglect with which they h^ been treated, in the beginning of the war, by those who afterward desired their assistance as| allies. ^* K. k Mmlli lU.illh ill in hi :: ' o* "•Mi CHAPTER XIII. Indians entertain apprehensions of the Mnglish-^re» solve to retire to the Island of MichilimackinQC* A gale of wind — and Indians sacrifice a Dog. Women lament at the burial-place qf RelationSp Land on the Island, Number of Warriors. Author hid by Wawatam in a cave — makes a discovery there, Indian explanations. Indian sacrifices, - * IN the morning' of the ninth of June, a general council was held, at which it was agreed to remove to the island of Michilimackinac, as a more defen- sible situation, in the event of an attack by the En- glish. The Indians had begun to entertain appre- hensions of want of strength. No news had reach- ed them from the Potawatamies, in the Bay des Puants ; and they were uncertain whether or not the Monomins* would join them. They even ^l; * Mano^iines, or Malomines. In the first syllable, the subsdtution of / for n, 110 TRAVELS AND tA. D. m)"m Ii-H»ji! ' ;iT ill J, in i ';,!! f'K i,-'"<' i: ' m liil I;;; ' 111 li! > ■' 'i ^' ■ ¥ ' i:ifl -I In the canoes was a large proportion of liquor, a dangerous acquisition, and which threatened dis- turbance among the Indians, even to the loss of their dearest friends. Wawatam, always watchful of my safety, no sooner heard the noise of drunken- ness, which, in tlie evening, did not fail to begin, than he represented to me the danger of remaining in the village, and owned that he could not himself resist the temptation of joining his comrades in the debauch. That I might escape all mischief, he therefore requested that I would accompany him to the mountain, where I was to remain hidden, till the liquor should be drank. We ascended the mountain accordingly. It is this mountain which constitutes that high land, in the middle of the island, of which I have spoken before, as of a figure considered as resembling a turtky and therefore called michiHmackinac. It is thickly covered with wood, and very rocky toward the top. After walking more than half a mile, we came to a large rock, at the base of which was an Opening, almost every one offered a different opinion, as to its history. 1763.] ADVENTURES. 113 Some advanced, that at a period when the wa- ters overflowed the land, (an event which makes a distinguished figure in thehistory of their world,) the inhabitants of this island had fled into the cave, and been there drowned; others, that those same inhabi- tants, when the Hurons made war upon them, (as tra- dition says they did,) hid themselves in the cave, and being discovered, were there massacred^ For my- self, I am disposed to believe, that this cave was an ancient r^^ptacle of the bones of prisoners, sacrir ficed and devoured at war-feaste. I have always observed, that the Indians pay particular attention to the bones of sacrifices, preserving them uubro- ken, and depositing them in some place kept exclu- sively for that purpose. 15 \ w If i3'»!i;' Imnl'gli'- >kri I •ill r!)vif> {:■;;■; wmmk'4 I*] li':'. i:;.s!/'^Jt '111 :^'tl '.^ CHAPTER XIV- Cirtf qf ifenekwehna Jbr the Author^ 9 preserva- tion. Author assumes the Indian Costume — in what that Costume consists. Provisions scarce. Indian resignation. Family remove to the Bay of Boutchitaouy, Indian Medicines. Pretended Sorceries, Cures of Flesh-wounds* A FEW days after the occurrence of theinci. dents recorded in the preceding chapter, Meneh- wehna, whom I now found to be the great chief] of the village of Michilimackinac, came to thei lodge of my friend ? and when the usual ceremony | of smoking was finished, he observed that In- dians were now dailj arriving from. Detroit, some | of whom had lost relations or friends in the war, and who would certainly retaliate on any English- man they found ; upon which account,^ his er- rand was to advise that I should be dressed like! an Indian, an expedient whence I might hope to| escape all future insult. I could not but consent to the proposal, and the chief was so kind as to assist my friend and his fa ires.] TRAVELS, kc. 115 mily in effecting that very day the desired metamor. phosis. My hair was cut off, and my head shaved, with the exception of a spot on the crown, of about twice the diameter of a crown-piece. My &ce was painted with three or four different colours ; some parts of it red, and others black* A shirt was pro- vided for me, painted with vermilion, mixed' \|^ith grease^ A large collar of wampum was put round my neck, and another su^iended on my breast. Both my arms were decorated with large bands d silver above the elbow, besides several smaller ones on the wrists; and my legs were covered with mitas^ sesy a kind of hose, made, as is the favourite fashion, of scarlet cloth. Over all, I was to wear a scarlet blanket or mantle, and on my head a large bunch of feathers. I parted, not without some regret, with the long hair which was natural to it, and which I fancied to be ornamental ; but the ladies of the family, and of the village in general, appeared to think my person improved, and now condescend- ed to call me handsome, even among Indians^ ■* Protected, in a great measure, by this di^uise, I felt myself more at liberty than before ; ahd the season being arrived in which my clerks, from the interior, were to be expected, and some part of my property, as I had a right to hope, recovered, I be^ed the favour of Wawatam, that he would enable me to pay a short visit to Michilimackinac. He did not fail te comply, and I succeeded in fim)- I 116 TRAVELS AND [A. D. nil i;"'''^'i 'I '""''• : ' iiig my clerks ; but, either through the disturbed state of the country, as they represented to be the case, or through their misconduct, as I had reason to think, I obtained nothing;— and nothing, or almost nothing, I now began to think, would be all that I should need, during the rest of my life. To iish and to hunt, to collect a few skins, and ex. change them for necessaries, was all that I al|||ned destined to do, and to acquire, for the future; ' I returned to the Indian village, where at this i time much scarcity of food prevailed. We were often for twenty-four hours without eating ; and when in the morning we had no victuals for the day before us, the custom was to black our faces] with grease and charcoal, and exhibit, through re- signation, a temper as cheerful as if in the midst of| plenty. A repetition of the evil, however, soon induced us to leave the island, in search of food,; and ac-l cordingly we departed for the Bay of BoutchitaouyJ distant eight leagues, and where we found plentj| of wild-fowl and fish. * While in the bay, my guardian's daughter-in law was taken in labour, of her first child. Shf] was immediately removed out of the commc lodge ; and a small one, for her separate accommo] •.'n 'm sf^ 'UMr 1763.] ADVENTURES. 117 dation, was begun and fini^ed by the women in less than half an hour. The next morning, we heard that she was very ill, and the family began to be much alarmed on her account ;. the more so, no doubt, because cases of difficult labour are very rare among Indian wo- men. In this distress, Wawatam requested me to accompany him into the woods ; and on our way i informed me, that if he could find a snake, he should [soon secure relief to his daughter»in-law. * On reaching some wet ground, we speedily ob- lined the object of our search, in a small snake, )f the kind called the garter-snake. Wawatam seized it by the neck ; and, holding it fast, while it soiled itself round his arm, he cut off its head, matching the blood in a cup that he had brought nth him. This done, he threw away the snake, rnd carried home the blood, which he mixed with quantity of water. Of this mixture, he adminis- [ered first one table-spoonful, and shortly after a xond. Within an hour, the patient was safely lelivered of a fine child ; and Wawatam subscr |uendy declared, that the remedy, to which he had isorted, was one that never failed. On the next day, we left the Bay of Boutchi- louy ; and the young mother, in high spirits, as- 118 TRAVELS AND [A.D. *fe >4 1.1 1.11 K"* ill 111 'I sisted in loading the canoe, barefooted, and knee- deep in the water. The medical information, the diseases and the remedies of the Indians, often engaged my curiosi. ty, during the period through which I was familiar with these nations ; and I shall take this occasion to introduce a few particulars, connected with their history. The Indians are in general free from disorders ; and an instance of their being subject to dropsy, gouty or stone, V never came within my knowledge. InflamniatlOE^t>f the lungs are among their most ordinary complaints, and rheumatism still more so, especially with the aged. Their mode of life, in which tliey are so much exposed to the wet and cold, sleq>ing on the ground, and inhaling the night air, sufficiently accounts for their liability to these diseases. The remedies, on which they most rely, are emetics, cathartics and the lancet ; but especially the last. Bleeding is so favourite an operation among tlie women, that they never lose aii occasion of enjoying it, whether sick or well. I have sometimes bled a dozen women in a mom- ing, as they sat in a row, along a fallen tree, begin- ningwith the first — opening the vein — then pro- ceeding to tlie second — and so on, having three or four individuals bleeding at the same time. .?%: /.' 1763.] ADVENTURES. 119 In most villages, and particularly in those of the Chipeways, this service was required of me ; and no persuasion of mine could ever induce a woman to dispense with it. ' In all parts of the country, and among all the nations that I have seen, particular individuals arrogate to themselves the ah of healing, but principally by means of pretended sorcery ; and operations of this sort are always paid for by a pre- sent, made before they are begun. Indeed, whatever, as an impostor, may be the demerits of the opera- tor, his reward may generally be said to be fairly earned, by dint of corporal labour. # I was once present at a performance of this kind, in which the patient was a female child of about twelve years of age. Several of the ^der chiefs were invited to the scene ; and the wne compliment was paid to myself, on account of the medical skill for which it was pleased to give me credit. , m^ m The physician (so to call him) seated himself on the ground ; and before him, on a new stroud blanket, was placed a bason of water, in which were three bones, the larger ones, as it appeared to me, of a swan's wing. In his hand, he had his shishiguoi, or rattle, with which he beat time to his medicine' song. The sick child lay on a blanket, near the '«£. 'IHlnr' '•■ ' iH" . 1/ 'III, ' ; ■■ hi':: ■ >■ y,i".*t''':} 1 m i 1J !i' ;:l.f' Ml. 1^ : ■I' '(r'ii'lti'" '4 m .pb-t 120 TRAVELS AND [A. D. physician. She appeared to have much fever, ami a severe oppression of the lungs, breathing with difficulty, and betraying symptoms of the last stage of consumption. After sin^ng for some time, the physician took one of the bones out of the bason : the bone was hollow ; and one eild being applied to the breast of the patient, he ppt the other into )iis mouth, in order to remove the disorder by suction. Having persevered in this as long as he thought proper, he suddenly seemed to force the bone into his mouth, and swallow it. He now acted the part of one suf. fering severe pain ; but, presently finding relief, he made a long speech, and after this, returned to singing, and. to the accompaniment c«r his rattle. With the latter, during his song, he struck his head, breast, sides and back ; at the same time stnuning, as if to vomit forth the bone. Relinquishing this attempt, he applied himself to suction a second time, and with the second of the three bones ; and this also he soon seemed to swaUow. Upon its disappearance, he began to distort himself in the most frightful manner, using eye- ry gesture which could convey the idea of pain : at length, he succeeded, or pretended to suc- ceed, in throwing up one of the bones. This was ' ■' ■ ^ ■ '.^~"-' ■• " ", ■.', " / ■■.','• ,■■■'> • ■■.; '-- . -v „- \'-: -,_*■: -' -.r:' ■ ■- ■ tr63.] ADVENTrtlES. 121 handed about to the spectators, and strictly exa- mined ; but nothing remarkable could be disco- vered. Upon this, he went back to his song and rattle ; and after some time threw up the second of the two bones. In the groove of this, the phy- sician, upon examination, found, and displi^ed to all prtsent, a small white substance, resembling a piece of the quill of a feather. It was passed round the company, from one to the other ; and declared, by the physician, to be the thing causing the disorder of hit patient. The multitude believe that these physicians, whom the French csdX jongleurs, or jugglers, can inflict as well as remove disorders. They believe, that hf drawing the figure of any person in sand or ashes, or on clay, or by considering any object as the figure of a person, and then pricking it with a sharp stick, or other substance, or doing in any other manner, that which done to a living body, would cause pain or injury, the individual repre- sented, or supposed to be represented, will suffer accordingly. On the other hand, the mischief being done, another physician, of equal pretensions, can by suction remove it. — Unfortunately, however,^ the operations which I have described were not successful, in the instance referred to ; for, on the day after they had taken place, the girl died. 16 Kiif:i' ■^.hi/ •:,'■■ :^,i'- 'iJ:' Jill ii' las TRAVEW ANP |[4^^l^* ,..| ,r,<;. With regard to fle8h-woun49» the Imlmft ^X- ttanly effect astoniahing cures. Here» as at)ove, much that is fantastic occurs ; but the aucoesa of their practice evinces something soUcI* At the Sault de Saiiite«Marie, I knewa man, who, in the result of a quarrel, received the stroke of an axe in his side. The blow was so violent, and the axe driven so deep, that the wretch who held it could not withdraw it, but left it in the wound, and fled. Shortly after, the man wasfBund, and brought into the fort, where several other Indians came to his ^sistancc. Among these, one, who was a phy. sician, immediately withdrew, in order to fetch his ptnegusan^ or medicine*bag, with which he sooi returned* The eyes of the sufferer were fixed, hi$ teeth closed, and his case apparently desperate* The physician took from his bag a small por- tion of a very white substance, resembling that of a bone ; this he scraped into a little wat^r, and fdrcing open the jaws of the patient with a stick* be poured tiie mixture down his throat. What fol- lowed was, that in a very short space of time, the wounded man moved his eyes ; and beginning to vomit, threw up a small lump of clotted bldod. The physician now, and not before, examined the wound, from which I could see the breath es- cape, and from which a part of the omentum de- t7«l.] ADVENTURES. i2ar pended. Thit^ the physician did not aet aboiit to matore tp its place ; but, cutting it away, minced it itito small pieces, and made his patient swallow it. The man was then carried to his lodge, where I disked him daily. By the sixth day, he was able to walk about ; and within a month he grew quite well, except that he was troubled with a cougfa« Twenty years after his misfortune, he was still jQlve. Another man, being on his wintering-ground, and frbm home, hunting beaver, was crossing « lake, covered with smooth ice, with two beavers on his back, when his foot slipped, and he fell. At his side, in his belt, was his axe, the blade of which came upon the joint of his wrist ; and, the weight of his body coming upon the blade, his hand was completely separated from his arm, with the exception of a small piece of the skin. He had to walk three miles to his lodge, which was thus far away. The akin, which alone retained his hand to his arm, he put through, with tlie same uxe which had done the rest ; and fortunately having on a shirt, he took it off, tore it up, and made a strong ligature above the wrist, so as in some measure to avoid the loss of blood. On reaching his lodge, he cured the wound himself, by the mere use of sim- ples. I was a Wiw. ess to its perfect healing. V 124 thavel^, lie. ir63.] I have MJd, thut their physioiAns^ jugglein, or practitioners of pretended sorcery, are supposed to be capable of inflicting diseases; and I may add, that they are sometimes themselves sufferers on this ac count. In one instance, I saw one of them killed, by a man who charged him with having brought his brother to death, by malefic arts. The accu. ser, in his rage, thrust his knife into the belly of the accused, and ripped it open. The latter caught his bowels in his arms, and thus walked toward his lodge, gathering them up from time to time, as they escaped his hold. His lodge was at no considerable distance, and he reached it alive, anddied*init 'M' 'J :> < ■) 1. > > i '1'., ^1'^ I i iff i^i ■ "IS '■; H^> CHAPTER XV* Encamp on the Island of Saint- Martin, Sturgeon- fishery. Remove to fVintering-ground, in Lake Michigan, Oedgraphical Remarks, Beaver^ hunting, Indian Devotion. Reaver, Racoorh hunting* OUR next eticampmcnt was on the island of Saint- Martin, off Cape Saint- Ignace, so called from the Jesuit mission of Saint Ignatius t#the Hu- Irons, formerly established there. Our object was to fish for sturgeon, which we d»d with great suc- cess ; and here, in the enjoyment of a plentiful and lexcellent supply of food, 'we remained until the [twentieth day of August. At this time, the autumn )eing at hand, and a sure prospect of increased [security from hostile Indians afforded, Wawatam )ropo8ed going to his intended wintering- ground, [rhe removal was a subject of the greatest joy to lyself, on account of the frequent insults, to which had still to submit, from the Indians of our band )r village; and to escape from which I would freely |iavc gone almost any where. At our wintering- jrbund, we were to be alone ; for the Indian fami- lies, in the countries of which I write, separate in liri ' f Ml I .C^M. ii i:o.#ife-i I ni ]i ■■■1;, ^1 la ' TJ;! ^Ji:'i I ,f^ I! i ■t i 1/ 196 immA AND [A. D the winter seadOM, fbr the convenience, ii well of subHiBtcnce a» of the chase, and re^Associate in the spring and summer. In preparation, our ilrtit bUiiiieiiB was to sail for Michlllmackinac, where, being arrived, we procu- red fVom a Canadian trader, on credit, some trifHnj artictes, together with ahimunitkm, and two busheli of mai»e. This done, we Mteerid directly fm Lake Michigan, At L* Ai hre Croche we stopped otic day, on a visit to the Otawas, where all the peo. pic, and particularly O'kl'no'chu'ma'kl', the chief, the same who took the (Vom the Chifiie^tj, behaved with great civility and kindness. Thi! chief pre#\ted me with a bag of maise. tt Is tJie Otawas, It will be remembered, who raiste thli| grain, for tlie market of Michilimackinac. Leaving L*Arbre Croche, ^ proceeded direct to the mouth of the river Aux Sables, on dte south iide of the lake, and distant about A hundred ttnd fifty miles from Fort Mlchilimackinac. On o«f| voyage, we passed several deep bays and rivm, and t found the banks of the lake to consist iti I mere sands, without any appearance of vertlurci the sand drifting from one hill to another, like snoflfj In winter. Hence, all the rivers. Which here en- tered the lake, are as much entitled to the cpithd of wtrtdj/^ us that to which we were bound. The} trc also distinguished by another particularity, :i| mi': IW Ji^R.'i' ■f , **■ ,.,>**"■• JJ ^' ir«a.] ApVllNTURCfl. w ttlwuyi obierv«ble in iimilor lituationi* The cur- rent Qiibts qitrean^ jbeing tticti when the wind is c<^- tmry, by the waves of the lakCf it is driven backt md the sands of the ^hore are at the sam# time washed in!tQ its mouth* In conseqi ^nce^ the riv^ is able to force a passage into the kltei broad only in proportion to its utmost streng;th ; while it hol- lows for itselfi behind the sand'banks, a bason of onei !two» or three titles across. In these rivers we IciUed many wi)d'fowMnd beaver. To \t\\\ beaveo we used to go several miles up I the rivers, before the approach of nighti and aftq* I the dufil^ Cfune on, suffer the canoe to drift gently down the current, without noise. Th«|^aver, tn this part of the evening, come abroad ro procure I food, or materials for repairing their habitations ; land as they are not alarmed by the canoe, they often Ipass it within gun-shot. While we thus hunted along our way, I enjoyed personal freedom of which I had been long de- prived, and became as expert in the Indian pur- lutts, as the Indians themselves. On entering the river Aux Sables, Wawatam ^k a dog, tied iu feet together, and threw it ^nto the stream, uttering, at the same time, along prayer, which he addressed to the Great Spirit, nuppHcating his blessing on the chase, and his aid 'Mj: «■'«'" * I- }^:mMwk- ■?; !!.•,■;•' iff i; .'■■ , i^d':.''"!- *.*:i I ^t 1. J-'i h' I!' '■^if :i!: ':i',;ilii':^: ii-:i l!'|ll Jlf... f I i:l :■;. i ■'ijiji ir ■i" 1:, ' I 128 TRAVELS AND [A. D. in the support of the family, through the dangers of a long winter. — Our lodge was fifteen miles above the mouth 6f the stream. The principal animals, Which the country afforded, were the stag or red- deer, the common American deer, the bear, ra- coon, beaver and marten. The beaver feeds in preference on young wood of the birch, aspen, and poplar ^tree;^ but, in defect of these, on any other tree, those of the pine and fir kinds excepted. These latter it employs only for building its dams and houses. In wide mea- dows, where no wood is to be found, it resorts, for all its purposes, to the roots of the rush and water- lily. It d^suroes great quantities of food, whether of roots or wood; and hence often reduces itself! to the necessity of removing into a new quarter, j Its house has an arched dome-like roof, of an clip- tical figure, and rises from three to four feet above { the surface of the water. It is always entirely sur- rounded by water ; but, in the banks adjacent, the | animal provides holes or washes^ of which the en- trance is below the surface, and to "which it retreats | on the first alarm. m<\ w WW'k The female beaver usually produces two young at a time, but not unfrequently more. During the ^Pofiulu9 nigruy called, by the Canadians, Hard. '••--».*> vji} :S. ADVENTURES. 129 irst year, the young remain with their parents. In the second, they occupy an adjoining apartment, id assist in building, and in procuring food. At [wo years old, they part, and build houses of their )wn ; but often rove about for a considerable time, ^efore they fix upon a spot. There are beavers, galled, by the Indians, old bachelorsy who live ^y themselves, build no houses, and work at ^0 dams, but shelter themselves in holes. The ^sual method of taking these is by traps, formed of ron* or logs, and baited with branches of poplar. According to the Indians, the beaver is much ^ven to jealousy. If a strange male amroaches le cabin, a battle immediately ensues, ^f this^ le female remains an unconcerned spectator, care- Kss to which party the law of conquest may assign ;r. Among the beaver which we killed, those ^ho were with me pretended to show demonstra- |ons of this fact ; some of the skins of the males, id almost all of the older ones, bearing marks of iolence, while none were ever to be seen on the Lins of the females. * The Indians add, that the male is as constant as is jealous, never attaching himself to more than le female ; while the female, on her side, is always ^nd of strangers. ^ a. ft ■•■i.-i^ i! ■ ■' JIM? !,i' il I' ■' ■'•"''iiJiif'i SI ;■- ' ' ■■ i- 130 IHAVELS AND [A.^! The most common way o^ taking the beaver J that of breaking up its house, which is done witkl trenching-tools, during the winter, When the ice J strong enough to allow of approaching them ; 9s\ when, also, the fur is in its most valuable state. Breaking up the house, however, is only a prtj paratory step. During this operation, the famil) make their escape to one or more of their wasjj( These are to be discovered, by striking the ia along the bank, and where the holes are, a hcJllo sound is returned. After discovering and ses ing many of these in vain, we often found the who family together, in the same wash. I Was tau^ occasidHUy to distinguish a full wash from an enip one, by the motion of the water above its entrana occasioned by the breathing of the animals co cealed in it. From the washes, they must be taktj out with the hands ; and in doing this, tlie huntt sometimes receives severe wounds from their tc While a hunter, I thought, with the Indians, the beaver-flesh was very good; but after of the ox was again within my reach, I cou not relish it. The tail is accounted a lyxuric morsel. Beavers, say the Indians, were formerly a pic endowed with speech, not less than with other noble faculties they possess ; but, the Gr |:v: ■■: at 1763.] ADVENTURES. 131 Spirit has taken this away from them, lest they kould grow superior in understanding to mankind* The racoon was another object of our chase. It ^as my practice to go out it| the evening, with logs, accompanied by the youngest son of my guar* |ian, to hunt this animal. The racoon ncvci: (aves its hiding-place till after sun-set. As soon as a dog falls on a fresh track of the icoon, he gives notice by a cry, and immediately irsues. His barking enables the hunter to follow. *he racoon, which travels slowly, and is soon over- men, makes for a tree, on which he remains till iot. After the falling of the snow, nothing more is [cessary, for taking the racoon, than to follow the ick of his feet. In this season, he seldom leaves habitation ; and he never lays up any food, lave found six at a time, in the hollow of one ke, lying upon each other, and nearly in a torpid ite. In more than one instance, I have asccr- (ned that they have lived six weeks without food. ie mouse is their principal prey. lacoon-hunting was my more particular and lly employ. I usually went out at the first dawn ay, and seldom returned till sun-set, or till I had % iiiPi f\. J:r' ill'' 132 TRAVELS, aec. 1^63.] I laden myself with as many animals as I could cany. By degrees, I became familiarized with this kind of I life; and had it not been for the idea of which I could not divest my mind, that I was living amon^l savages, and for tbn whispers of a lingering hope,! that I should one day be released from it — orifjl could have forgotten that I had ever been otherj wise than as I then was— I could have enjoyed, much happiness in this, as in any other situation. * 'St • , m CHAPTER XVI. Fe(ut of the Manes of Relations and Friends, Pro^ duct of Chase, Indian Family set out on a Hunt- ing Excursion, Indian travelling by Land, Author loses his Way, r ONE evening, on my return from hunting, I found the fire put out, and the opening, in the top of the lodge, covered over with skins ; by this means excluding, as much as possible, extemial light. I further observed, that the ashes were removed from the fire-place, and that dry sand was- spread where they had been. Soon after, a fire was made without side the cabin, in the open air, and a kettle hung over it to boil. I now supposed &at a feast was in preparation. I supposed so, only ; for it would have been inde- corous to inquire into the meaning of what I saw. No person, among the Indians themselves, would use this freedom. Good-breeding requires that the spectator should patiently wait the result. *.b I'll 1 K nu i' II: ; il'iil ii:' ilii'^ i:i;:te*i^! 134 TRAVELS AND [A. D. As soon as the darkness of night had arrived, the family, including myself, were invited into the lodge. I was now requested not to speak, as a feast was about to be given to the dead, whose spirits delight in uninterrupted silence. As we entered, each was presented with his wooden-dish and spoon, after receiving which we seated ourselves. The door was next shut, and we remained in perfect darkness. The master of tlie family was the master of the feast. Still in the dark, he asked every one, by turn, for his dish, and put into each two boiled ears of maize. The whole being served, he began to speak. In his discourse, which lasted half an hour, he called upon the manes of his deceased relations and friends, beseeching them to be present, to assist •him in the chase, and to partake of the food which he had prepared for them. Wh^n he had ended, we proceeded to eat our maize, which we did without other noise than what was occasioned by our teeth. The maize was not half boiled, and it took me an hour to consume my share. «. I was requested not to break the spikes,^ as this would be displeasing to the departed spirits of their friends. o-t * Tiie grains of maize, called also Indian com, grow in compact cells, round a spike. j^j,.^i ^^, j^ », .^ ic/Zi;,/ -*v' j*. .Vvj ■*vv-- 1763.] •ADVENTURKS. 135 lan com, grow ^4 When all was eaten, Wawatam made another speech, with which the ceremony ended. A new fire was kindled, with fresh sparks, from flint and steel ; and the pipes being smoked, the spikes were carefully buried, in a hole made in the ground for that purpose, within the lodge. This done, the whole family began a dance, Wawatam singingi and beating a drum. The dance continued the greater part of the night, to the great pleasure of the lodge. — The night of the feast was that of the first day of November. On the twentieth of December, we took an ac- count of the produce of our hunt, and found that we had a hundred beaver .^skins, as many racoons, and a large quantity of dried vemson ; all which was secured from the wolves, by being placed upcm a scaffold. A hunting-excursion, into the interior of the country, was resolved on ; and, early the next morn- ing, the bundles were made up by the women, for each person to carry. I remarked, that the bundle given to me was the liehtest, and those carried by the women, the largest and heaviest of the whole. On the first day of our march, we advanced about twenty miles, and then encamped. Being some- what fatigued, I could not hunt ; but Wawatam M¥ 136 TRAVELS AND [A. D. i \< .' |< !>{ h killed a stag, not far from our encampment. The next morning, we moved our lodge to the carcass. At this station, we remained two days, employed in drying the meat. The method was to cut it into slices, of the thickness of a steak, and then hang it over the fire, in the smoke. On the third day, wtj removed, and marched till two o^clock in the after- noon. While the women were busy in erecting and preparing the lodges, I took my gun, and strolled away, telling Wawatam that I intended to look out for some fresh meat, for supper. He answered, that he would do the same ; and, on this, we both left the encampment, in different directions. The sun being visible, I entertained no fear of losing my way ; but, in following several tracks of animals, in momentary expectation of falling in with the game, I proceeded to a considerable distance, and it was not till near sun-set that 1 thought of re- turning. The sky, too, had become overcast, ana I was therefore left without the sun for my guide. \ III this situation, I walked as fast as I could, always supposing myself to be approaching our encamp- ment, till at length it became so dark that I ran against the trees. V. ■■, Vv !r63.] ADVENTURES. 137 I became convinced that I was lost ; and I was alarmed by the reflection, that I was in a country entirely strange to me, and in danger from strange Indians. With the flint of my gun, I made a fire, and then laid me down to sleep. In the night, it rained hard. I awoke, cold and wet ; and as soon as light appeared, I recommenced my journey, sometimes walking and sometimes running, un- knowing where to go, bewildered, and like a mad- man. Toward evening, I reached the border of a large lake, of which I could scarcely discern the opposite shore. I had never heard of a lake in this part of the country, and therefore felt myself removed fur- ther than ever from the object of my pursuit. To tread back my steps appeared to be the most likely means of delivering myself; and I accordingly de- termined to turn my face directly from the lake, I and keep tliis direction as nearly as I could. A heavy snow began to descend, and night soon [afterward came on. On this, I stopped and made la fire ; and stripping a tree of its sheet of bark, lay (down under it, to shelter me from the snow. All night, at small distances, the wolves howled around ; land, to me, seemed to be acquainted with my mis- Ifortune. ^ 18 4 I, '•■*♦.. . ■ ,^ h lilies i fit!? ■ji'; r '^ 138 TRAVELS AN© [A. D. Amid thoughts the most distseiict^, I wu able, at length, to M asleep ; but it was not long before I awoke, refreshed, and wondeidog at the terror to which I had yielded «iysel£ That I could really have wanted the means of recovering my way, ap. peared to me almost incredible ; and the recollec- tion of it hke a dream» or as a ciccumstfuice which must have proceeded from the loss of my senses. Had this not happened, I could never, as I now thought, have suffered so long, without calling to mind the lessons which I had received f{om my In dian friend, for the very purpose of being useilil to me, in difficulties of this kind. These were, that ge- nerally speaking, the tops of pine-trees lean toward the rising of the sun ; that moss grows toward the roots of trees, on the side which faces the north; and that the limbs of trees are most numeroiis, and largest, on that which faces the south. Determined to direct my feet by these marks, and persuaded that I should thus, sooner or later, reach Lake Michigan, which I reckoned to be dis tant about sixty miles, I began my marcJi at break of day. I had not taken, nor wished to take, any nourishment, since I left the encampment ; I had M'ith me my gun and ammunition, and was there- fore under no anxiety in regard to food. The snow lay about half a foot in depth. ^ , lit - ij: ,»■ .* 1763.] ADVENTURES. 139 My eyefe wc>c now employ^ upon the trees. When their tops leaned different \V9}% I looked to the moss, or to the branches ; and by connecting one with another, I found |the means of travelling with some degree of confidence. At four o'clock, in the afternoon, the sun, to my inexpressible joy, broke from the clouds, and I had now no further need of examining the trees. In going down the side of a lofty hill, I saw a herd of re<9deer approaching. Desirous of killing one of them for food, I hid myself in the bushes, and on a large one coming near, presented my piece, which missed fire, on account of the priming having been wetted. The animals walked along, without taking the least alarm ; and, having re- loaded my gun, I followed them, and presented a second time. But, now, a disaster of the heaviest kind had befallen me ; for, on attempting to fire, I found that I had lost the cock. I had previously lost the screw by which it was fastened to the lock ; and to prevent this from being lost also, I had tied it in its place, with a leather string : the lock, to prevent its catching in the bows, I had carried under my molton coat. Of all the sufferings which I had experienced, this seemed *to me the most severe. I \^^s in a I*!* 140 travels; Sec. r^^-tg 111 Tl:r,i, B:!i;|i'-. ir^3.3 strange country, and knew not how far I liad to go. I had been three days without food ; I was now without the means of procuring myself either food or fire. Despair had almost overpowered me; but, I soon resigned myself into the hands of that Providence, whose arm had so often saved me, and returned on my track, in search of what I had lost. My search >vas in vain, and I resumed my course, M;et, cold^iid hungry^ and almost without clothing. m ••;.!' ! :i^:ii *t ^|rl CHAPTER XVir. Author regains the Encampment — kills a Bear. Indians endeavour to soothe the Manes of the Bear, and pay it the homage of the customary Feast, Sl^e Remarks on the ^aturrl History of the Bear. Stag-hunting. THE sun was setting fast, when I descended a [hill, at the bottom of which was a small lake, en- tirely frozen over. On drawing near, I saw a bea- |ver-lodge in the middle, offering some faint prospect )f food ; but, I found it already broken up. While looked at it, it suddenly occurred to me, that I id seen it before ; and turning my eyes round the )lace, I discovered a small tree, which I had myself iVLt down, in the autumn, when, in company with ly friends, I had taken the beaver. I was no longer at a loss, but knew both the distance and le route to the encampment. The latter was only ^o follow the course of a small stream of water, ^hich ran from the encampment to the lake on ^hich I stood. An hour before, I had thought my- :lf the most miserable of men ; and now I leaped for joy, and called myself the happiest. U2 TRAVELS AND [A.D. iii:,;|'' i: The whole of the night, and through all the sue- ceeding day, I walked up the rivulet, and at sun- set reached the encampment, where I was received with the warmest expressions of pleasure by the family, by whom I had been given up for lost, after a long and vain search for me In the woods. Some dajrs elapsed, during wMch I rested my. self, and recruited niy strength : aftei* this, I re- sumed the chase, secure, that ks the snow had now fallen, I cotlld always return ijr the way I went. In the course of the month of Januar}% I hap. pened to observe that the trunk of a very large pine-tree was much torn by the claws of a bear, made both in going up and down. On further examination, I saw that there was a large opening, in the upper part, near which the smaller branches I were broken. From these marks, and from the additional circumstance, that there were no tracks on the snow, there was reason to believe that a bear | lay concealed in the tree. On returning to the lodge, I communicated in) discovery ; and it was agreed that all the family | should go together, in the morning, to assist in cut ting down the tree, the girth of which was not less I than three fathom. The women, at first, opposed the undertaking, because our axes, being only of a 1714] ADVENTUJIES. 149 pound and a half ivcigbt, were not weU adafited to so heavy a htbcmr ; but, the hope of finding a large bear, and obtainii^ from its fat a great quan- tity of oil, an article at the time much w^anted, at length prevailed* Accordingly, in the morning, we anrrounded the tree, both men and women, as maay at a time as could conveniently work at it ; and here we toiled, like beaver, till the sun went down. This day's work carri^ us about halfway through the trunk ; and the next morning we renewed the attack, con- tinuing it till about two o'clock, in the afternoon, when the tree fell to the ground. For a few minutes, every thing remained quiet, and I feared that all our expectations were disappointed ; but, as I ad- vanced to the opening, there came out, to the great satisfaction of all our party, a bear of extraordinary I size, which, before she had proceeded many yaitds, I shot. The bear being dead, all my assistants up. Iproached, and all, but more particularly my old [mother, (as I was wont to call her,) took his head in Itheir hands, stroking and kissing it several times ; Ibegging a thousand pardons for taking away Iher life ; calling her their relation and grand- Imother; and requesting her not to lay the fault Jupon them, since it was truly an Englishman that lad put her to death. kirlili ■m Wri iiiii i J Ml »!!; iUi I' «!). ■ I; !■■ IH TRAVELS AND [A.D. This ceremony was not of long duration ; and if it was I that killed their grand-mother, they were not themselves behind-hand in what remained to be performed. The skin being taken off, we found the fat in several places six inches deep. This, bebg divided into two parts, loaded two persons ; and the flesh parts ^Vere as much as four persons could carry. In all, the carcass must have exceeded five hundred weight. ' As soon as we reached the lodge, the^ear's head >vas adorned with all the trinkets in the possession of the family, such as silver arm-bands and wrist. bands, and belts of wampum ; and then laid upon a scaffold, set up for its reception, within the lodge. Near the nose, was placed a large quantity of to. bacco. The next morning no sooner appeared, than pre. parations were made for a feast to the manes. The lodge was cleaned and swept ; and the head of the bear lifted up, and a new stroud blanket, which had never been used before, spread under it. The pipes were now lit ; and Wawatam blew tobacco- smoke into the nostrils of the bear, telling me to do the same, and thus appease the anger of the bear, on account of my having killed her. I endea. voured to persuade my benefactor and friendly adviser, that she no longer had any life, and as. sured him that I was under no apprehension from %. F6i.J ADVENTURES. 145 lier (tispleasiire ; but, the first prqMsition obtain- no credit and the second gave but little satis- ictlon. At length, the feast being ready, Wawatam commenced a speech, resembling, iii many things, lis address to the manes of his relations and depart- ed companions ; but, having this peculiarity, that le Here deplored the necessity under which men >oured, thus to destroy their Jr tends. He repre- sented, however, that the misfortune was unavoid- ible, since witliout doing so, they could by no leans subsist. The speech > ended, we all ate leartily of the bear's flesh ; and even the head itself^ iT remaining three days on the scaifold, was put into the kettle. It is only the female bear that makes her winter lodging in the upper parts of trees, a practice by which her young are scciu^ froiti the attacks of jwolves and other animals. She brings forth in the nnter-season ; and remains in her lodge till the [cubs have gained some strength. , The male always lodges in tlie ground, under the [roots of trees. He takes to this habitation as soon las the snow falls, and remains there till it has dis- i appeared. The Indians remark, that the bear comes 19 146 TRAVELS AND [A.D. out in the spring with the same &t which he car. lied in,in'the autumn ; but, after exercise of onfy) few days, becomes lean. Excepting for ashort part| of the season, the male lives constantly alone. The fat of our bear was melted down, and dx oil filled six porcupine-skins.^ A part of the meat was cut into strips, and fire-dried, after which it wai put into the vessels containing the oil, where it re. mained in perfect preservation,. until the middle of | summer* February, in the country and by the people where and among whom I was, is called the Moon of Hard, or Crusted Snow ; for now the snov can bear a man, or at least dogs, in pursuits animals of the chase. At this season, the stag is very successfully hunted, his feet breaking througii at every step, and the crust upon the snow, cutting his legs, with its sharp edges, to the very bone. He is consequently, in this distress, an easy prey ; and it frequently happened that we killed twelve in the short space of two hour J By this means, we were soon put into posses- sion of four thousand weight of ; dried venison, * The animal, whichi in America^ is calle4 the porcupine, is a hedge-hog, or urchin. '■'■^ calle4 the porcupine, ADVENTURES. 147 rhich was to be carried on our backs, along with the rest of our wealth, for seventy miles, the listance of our encampment from that part of le lake shore, at which in the autu^^l we left )ur canoes. This journey it was our^next business perform. #■ rvm-M. A / r- '•■,! liir 'twr^.tiK^(i(tii^ ^ CHAPTER XVm. Commence return to Michilimackinac. Joinotkx Indian Families, and make Maple-sugar, Family Lands, Child Scalded, Prayers^ Fasts and i crijices for its Recovery, Child Dies, Bodym\ riedfor Burialy at the accustomed 'Burial-gn of the Family, Burial, Indian Opinions.conct ing the Future State of the Soul of Man. OUR venison and furs and peltries were to I disposed of at Michilimackinac, and it was nowl season for carrying them to market. Thewoi therefore prepared our loads; and the morning^ departure being come, we sat dff at day -break, continued our march till two o'clock in the aftt noon. Where we stopped, we erected a scaffd on which we deposited the bundles we had broiig and returned to our encampment, \vhich we reach in the evening. In the morning, we carried (n loads, which being deposited with the rest, wei turned a second time in the evening. Thisi repeated, till all was forwarded one stage. Ti removing our lodge to the place of deposit, wei . ried our goods, with the same patient toil, a secc 149 TRAVELS, fcc. 1764.] Stage ; and so on, till we were at no gteat distance from the shored of the lake. Arrived here, we turned our attention to sugar-, making, the management of which, as I have before related, belongs to the women, the men cutting wood for the fires, and hunting and fishing. In the midst of this, we were joined by several lodges of Indians, most of whom were of the family to which I belonged, and had wintered near us. The lands belonged to this family, and it had there- fore the exclusive right to hunt on them. This is according to the custom of the people ; for each family has its own lands. I was treated very civiDy by all the lodgts. Oiir society had been a short time enlarged, by this arrival of our friends, when an accident occur- red which filled all the village with anxiety and sor- row. A little child, belonging to one of oiu* neigh- bours, fell into a kettle of- boiling syrup. It was instantly snatched out, but with little hOpe of its recovery. " * • » ' *■ t -" * So long, howe^r, as it lived, a continual feast was observed ; and this was Inade to the Great Spint and Master of Life, that he might be pleased to save ami heal the child. At this feast, I was a constant guest ; and often found, difficulty in eating the large quantin^ of food, which, on such occa- # .;*•; f.:M± 150 TRAVELS AND [A. D. >' » &i % h I '. •If! Wl J i ^7J r: sions as these, is put upon each man's dish. The Indians accustom themselves both, to eat much, and to fast much, with facility. Several sacrifices were also offered ; among which were dogs, killed and hung upon the tops of poles, with the addition of stroud blankets and other arti- cles. These, also, were given to the Great Spirit, in humble hope that he would give efficacy to the medicines employed. The child died. To preserve the body from the wolves, it was placed upon a scaffold, where it re< mained till we went to the lake, on the border of which was the burial-ground of the family. On our arrival there, which happened in the be ginning of April, I did not fail to attend the funeral. The grave was made of a large size, and the whole of the inside lined with birch-bark. On the bark was laid the body of the child, accompanied with an axe, a pair of snow-shoes, a small kettle, several pairs of common shoes, its own strings of beads, and — because it was a girl — a carrying-belt and a paddle. The kettle was filled with meat. AH this was again covered with bark; and at about two feet nearer the surface, logs were laid across, and these again covered with bark, so that the earth might by no means fall upon the corpse. # iw.] ADVENTURES. 151 The last act before the burial, performed by the mother, crying over the dead body of her child, was that of taking from it a lock of hair, for a memorial. While she did this, I endea- voured to console her, by offering the usual ar- guments ; that the child was happy in being re- leased from the miseries of this present life, and that she should forbear to grieve, because it would be restored to her in another world, happy and ever- lasting. She answered, that she knew it, and that by the lock of hair she should discover her daugh- ter ; for she would take it with her. — In diis she allu- ded to the day, when some pious hand would place in her own grave, along with the carrying-belt and paddle, this little relic, hallo\ired by maternal tears. I have frequently inquired into the ideas and opinions of the Indians, in regard to futurity, and [always found that they were somewhat different, in different individuals. c Some suppose their souls to remain in this world, [although invisible to human eyes ; and capable, [themselves, of seeing and hearing their friends, and io of assisting them, in moments of distress and iger. Others dismiss from the mortal scene the un- ^mbodied spirit, and send it to a distant world or .-^.. 152 TRAVELS, &G. 1764; l^ V Ban ■^' * ^ m/i ^'-' ^ ■ "r'i' ■'■'Jti- ' 111 11^7- country, in which it receives reivard or> pnhlsh. ment, according to the life wliich it lias led in its prior state. Those who have lived virtuously are transported into a place abounding with every luxury, with deer and all other animals of the woods and water, and where the earth produces, in their greatest perfection, all its sweetest fruits. While, on the other hand, those who have violated or neg- lected the duties of this life, are removed to a bar. ren soil, where they wander up and down, among rocks and morasses, and are stung by gnats, ai as pigeons. • \ ti / T- • CHAPTER XIX. llruRans apprehensive of an attack ffUm the En- glish — kiil a Panther — embark Jar HHchUi' mackinae. Author consulted as to infinhnAtion conveyed to him in Dreams — sells his Furs and Peltries, Indian taciturnity, Author*s Lift threatened, fFawatam carries him from Fort Miehilimackinac, Dreams of Wawatam^s Wife oblige the Family to remain at Isle aux Outdrdes, WHILE we remained on the border of the hfke, watch was kept every night, iti th^ apprehenirioii )f a speedy attack from the English, who were ex- ited to avenge the massacre of Miehilimackinac. le immediate grounds of this apprehension were le constant dreams, to this effect, of the more kged women. I endeavoured to persuade them It nothing of the kind would take place ; but :ir fears were not to be subdued. Amid these alarms, there came a report con- ig a real, though less formidable enei^y, Uscovered in our neighbourhood. This was a 20 §km4 '-> ■ If .Sk: Jii'liflljL, :,;v' ■(:.; ri;:,,i^k ■Pi ::':^il.:lr' ; 154 TRAVELS AND [AD. -H. ^ther, which one of our young men had seen, ii and which animal sometimes attacks and carries away the Indian children. Our camp was imme. diately on the alert, and we set off into the woods, about twenty in number. We had not proceeded | more than a mile, before the dogs found the pan. i ther, and pursued him to a tree, on which he was] shot. He was of a large si^e. .. S > ■ On the twenty ^fifth of April, we embarked for Michilimackinac, At La Grande Traverse, we net I a large party of Indians, who appeared to labour, like ourselves, under considerable alarm ; and who dared proceed no further, lest they should bedt stroyed by the English. Frequent councils of tlit united bands were held; andinterrogationswerecofrl tinually put to myself, as to whether or not I knewl of any design to attack them. I found that they bej lieved it possible for me to have a fore-knowledgt| of events, and to be informed by dreams of things doing at a distance. Protestations of my ignorance were receiveii| with but litde satisfaction, and incurred the suspi'l cion of a design to conceal my knowledge. Oi| this account therefore, or because I saw them torj inented with fears which had nothing but imagina^j tion to rest upon, I told them, at length, that I knei itiejrp was np ^emy to insult them ; and that If64.3 ADVENTURfia. 151 might proceed to MicMlimadi^inac whinxit danger from the English, t further, and with mdre confi- idence, declared, that if ever my Countrymen re- turned to Michilimackinac, I would recommend Idiem to their favour, on account of the good treat- « lent which I had received from them. Thus en- couraged, they embarked at an early hour the lext morning. In crossing the bay, we experienced storm of thunder and lightening. Our port was the village of L'Arbre Croche, ^hich we reached in safety, aqd where we staid till le following day. At this village we found seve- persons who had been lately at Michilimackinac, id from them we had the satisfaction of learning It all was quiet there. The jemainderof our >yage was therefore performed with confidence. I In the evening of the twenty-seventh, we landed the fort, which now contained only two French kders. The Indians who had arrived before us ^re very few in number ; and by all who were of party, I was used very kindly. I had the iire freedom both oi' the fort and camp. Watam and myself setUed our stock, and paid debts ; and this done, I found that my share ^hat was left consisted in a hundred beaver- is, sixty racoon-skins and six otter, of the \ W"- 156 TRAVELS AND [A. 5, :ii • 1 ■ ill';' mJ u -■1 M (< ' !:-' i'il,' lil'ill "^ fMrJi'ffiilili'P" ■.,'!lA' r total V9lue of about one hundred and sixty doUan, With these eaminga of my winter's toil, I proposed to piirchase clothes, of which I was much in need, having been six months without a shirt r but, on i ii^uiring into the prices of goods, I found that aH my funds would not go far. I was able, however, to buy two shirts, at ten pounds Of beaver each ; a pair of leggingSy or pantaloons, of scarlet cloth, which, with the ribbon to garnish themfashumabbfA cost me fifteen pounds of be?ver ; a blanket, at twenty pounds of beaver ; and some other articles, ^t proportionable rates. In this manner, my wealtkl was soon reduced ; but, not before I had laid inil good stock of ammunition and tobacco. \ To tlttl use of the latter I had become much attached du-l ring the winter. It \yas my principal recreatioi^l after returning from the chase ; for my com] in the lodge were unaccustomed to pass the tinxj in conversation. Among the Indians, the topics i conversation are but few, and limited for the mo part, to the transactions of the day, the number i animals which they have killed, and of those whid have escaped their pursuit ; and other incidents! the chase. Indeed, the cau^s of taciturnity amc the Indians, may be easily understood, if we con der 1m)w many occasions of speech, which pi sent themselves to us, are utterly unknown them ; the records of history, the pursuits of i ence, the disquisitions of philosophy, the systen 1764.] ADVENTURES. 137 of politics, the business and the amusements of the day, and the transactions of the four comers of tlie world. Eight days had passed in tranquillity, wheii there arrived a band of Indians from the Bay of Saguenaum. They had assisted at the siege of Detroit, and came to muster as many recruits for that service as they could. For my own part, I was soon informed, that as I was the only En^sh* man in the place, they proposed to kill me, in order to give their friends a mess of English broth, to raise their courage. This intelligence was not of the most agreeable kind ', and in consequence of receiving it, I re- quested my friend to carry me to the Sault de Sainte-Marie, at which place I knew the Indians to be peaceably inclined, and that M. Cadotte en- joyed a powerful in^aence over their conduct. They considered M. Cadotte as their chief ; and he was not only my friend, but a friend to the En- gli^. It was by him that the Chipeways of Lake Superior were prevented from joining Pontiac. Wawatam was not slow to exert himself for my preservation ; but, leaving Michilimackinac in the 158 TRAVELS ANa CA.ft '.8 }' ^rt P 111' niglit, tranaported mjrself and all his lodge to Point SaiBt-Ignace» on the opposite side of the strait. Here we remained till day-light, and then went into the Bay of fioutcHitaouy, ii;! which we spent three dap in fishing and hunting, and where we found plenty of wild-fowL Leaving the bay, we made for the Isle aux Outardes, where we were obliged to put in, on account of die wind's coming ahead. We proposed sailing for the Sault the next morning* But, when the morning came, Wawatam's wife complained that she was sick, adding, that she had had bad dreams, and knew that if we went to the Sault we should all be destroyed. To have argued, at this time, against the infidlibility of dreams, would have been extremely unadvissu ble, since I should have appeared to be guilty, not only of an odious want of faith, but also of a still more odious want of sensibility to the possible ca- lamities of a family which had done so much for the alleviation of mine. I was silent ; but the dis. appointment seemed to seal my fate. No prospect opened to console me. To return to Michilimack* ivjxc could only ensure my destruction ; and to remain at the island was to brave almost equal dan- ger, since it lay in the direct route between the fort 1T«4.] ADVENTURER. 1» Alodg;etoPoint ie of the strait, d then went into I we spent three where we found e bay, we made we were obliged s coming ahead. Sault the next and the Missisaki, along which the Indians from D6troit were hourly expected to p^ss, on die biiti« liess of their mission. I doubted not, but, tdLiQg advantage of the solitary situation of the fiimi^t diey would carry into execution their design of killing me. NVawatam's wife idcQng, that she that if we went destroyed. To It the in&llibility -emely unadvisa^ to be guilty, not but alsoofastin > the possible ca- one so much for ent; butthedis- te. No prospect to Michilimack* truction ; and to ilmost equal dan. : between the fort t / «. %• Ui rf»fe,. 1' ll m!'h 'IT'- ' III'!;*.];;: m .i^: CHAPTER XX. * * Author is again relieved — takes leave qf Wawatam and his Family — is hospitably received by M. Cadotte, at the Sault de Sainte-Marie-^pursued by the Indians, Embassy from Sir fFiUiam Johnson. Deputation to Sir JFHIiam — Author to accompany it» Great Turtle to be cm» suited, UNABLE therefore to take any part in the di- rection of our course, but a prey at the same time to the most anxious thoughts as to my own condi- tion, I passed all the day on the highest part, to which I could climb, of a tall tree, and whence the lake, on both sides of the island, lay open to my view. Here I might hope to learn, at the eaiiiest possible, the approach of canoes, «nd by this means be warned in time to conceal myself. On the second morning, I returned, a» soon as it was light, to my watch-tower, on which I had not been long before I discovered a sai), coming from Michilimackinac. ir64.] TRAVELS, fcc. 161 The sp'J was a white one, and much larger than those usually employed by the Northern In- dians. I therefore indulged a hope that it might be a Canadian canoe, on its voyage ta Montreal'; and that I might be able to prevail upon the crew to take me with them and thus itlease me from all my troubles. My hopes continued to gain ground ; for I I soon persuaded myself that the manner in which the paddles were used, on board the canoe, was Ca- [nadian, and nof Indian. My spirits were elated ; mt, disappointment had become so usual with me, It I could not suffer myself to look to the event 4th any strength of confidence. Enough, however, appeared at length to demon- strate itself, to induce me to descend tKe tree, and ;pair to the lodge, with my tidings and schemes of liberty. The family congratulated me on the ap- ichofso&ir an opportunity of escape; and my ither and brother, (foi^ he was alternately each of ;. ) lit his pipe, and presented it to me, saying, f* My son, this may be the last time that ever you r and I shall smoke out of the same pipe ! I am r sorry to part with you. You know the affection r which I have always borne you, and the dangers I' to which I have exposed myself and family, to I* preserve you from your enemies ; and I ani hap- 21 162 TUAVELS AND [A. D. .:; r ' 'I.. ' <* py to find that my efforts promise not to have *' been in vain. ''—At this time, a -boy came into the lodge, informing us that the canoe had come from Michilimackinac, and was bound to the Sault de Sainte-Marie. It was manned by three Cana- dians, and was carrying home Madame Cadotte, the wife of M. Cadotte, already mentioned. My hopes of going to Montreal being now dis- sipated, I resolvc;d on accompanying Madame Ca- dotte, with her permission, to the Sault. On com- municating my wishes to Madame Cadotte, she I cheerfully acceded to them. Madame Cadotte, as i I have already mentioned, was an Indian woman, of the Chipevvay nation ; and she was very genej rally respected. • — — - My departure fixed upon, I returned to the lodge, where I packed up my wardrobe, consisting of my two shirts, pair of leggings and blanket | Besides these, I took a gun and ammunition, pre senting what remained further to my host. I also] returned the silver arm-bands, with which the fe mily had decorated me, the year before. We now exchanged farewells, with an emotion entirely reciprocal. Idid not quit the lodge without the most grateful sense of the many acts of good ncss which I had experienced in it, nor without tiicl ir64.] ADVENTURES. 163 sincerest respect for tl^e virtues which I had wit- nessed among its menlbers. All the family accom- panied me to the beach ; and the canoe had no sooner put off, than Wawatam commenced an ad- dress to the Ki'chi' Ma'ni'to', beseeching him to take care of me, his brother, till we should next meet. This, he had told me, would not be long, as he intended to return to Michiliniackinac for a short time only, and would then follow me to the Sault. — We had proceeded to too great a distance to allow of our hearing his voice, before Wawatam had ceased to offer up his prayers. Being now no longer in the society of Indians, I [laid aside the dress, putting gn that of a Canadian : a molton or blanket coat, over my shirt ; and a [handkerchief about my head, hats being very little [worn in th!s country. At day-break, on the second morning of our voyage, we embarked, and presently perceived se- veral canoes behind us. As they approached, we ascertained them to be the fleet, bound for the Mis- dsaki, of which I had been so long in dread. It amounted to twenty sail. On coming up with us, and surrounding our moe, and amid general inquiries concerning the lews, an Indian challenged me for an Englishman, id his companions supported him, by declaring 164 TRAVELS AND [A.D. if '' _,..., ......,, I'iK ''"' ■ ' n 4:1', iiil; !'':*•■■' that I looked very like one ; but I affected not to understand any of the questions which they asked me, ^nd Madame Cadotte assured them that I was a Canadian, whom she had brought on his first voyage from Montreal. The following day saw us safely landed at the Sault, where I experienced a generous welcome | from M. Cadotte. There were thirty warriors at j this place, restrained from joining in the war only j by M. Cadotte's influence. Here, for five days, I was once more in pos- session of tranquillity ; but, on the sixth, a young Indian came into M. Cadotte's, saying that a canoe { full of warriors had just arrived from Michilimack inac ; that they had inquired for me ; and that be I believed their intentions to be bad. Nearly at the same time, a message came from the good chief of the village, desiring me to conceal myself, until he should discover the views and temper of the| strangers. A garret was a second time my place of refuge; and it was not long before the Indians cametol M. Cadotte's. My friend immediately informed Mut'chi'ki'wish', their chief, who was related tohis wife, of the design imputed to them, of mischief| against myself. Mutchikiwish frankly acknow- ledged that they had had such a design ; but added I that if displeasing to M. Cadotte, it should be ,it i;- I'iW! iy«4.] ADVENTURES. 165 abandoned. He then further stated, that their errand was to raise a party of warriors to return with them to Detroit ; and that it had been their intention to take me with them. In regard to the principal of the two objects thus disclosed, M. Cadotte proceeded to assemble all die chiefs and warriors of the village ; and these, after deliberating for some time among themselves, sent for the strangers, to whom both M. Cadotte and the chief of the village addressed a speech. In these speeches, after recurring to the designs con- fessed to have been entertained against myself, who was now declared to be under the immediate pro- tection of all the chiefs, by whom any insult I might sustain would be avenged, the ambassadors were peremptorily told, that they might go back, as they came, none of the young men of this village being foolish enough to join them. A moment after, a report was brought, that a ca- noe had just arrived from Niagara. As this was a place from which every one was anxious to hear news, a message was sent to these fre^h strangers, requesting them to come to the council. The strangers came accordingly, and being seat- ed, a long silence ensued. At length, one of them, taking up a belt of wampum, addressed himself thus to the assembly : " My friends and brothers, " I am come, with this belt, from our great father. 'ft',. .!»' m •''^' If I.; I 111 •■'• mm m m .-«^ ' ■ill ilif ' /, ;4^ . ^> ^. -f - i - ^i 166 TRAVELS, kc. 1/64.] 4( ii If <{ « po6ed, to the answers to be given ; but, a ten iiic cry announced, with sufficient ii\|^lligibility, the departure of the Tur. TtB. A quarter of an hour elapsed in ailence, and | waited impatient^ to di^ver what was to be the next incident, in this scene of impositiu^. It con. bistcd in the retuni pf the spirit, whose voice was again heard, and who now delivered a continued speech. The kmguage of the GtKAT Turtle, like tliat which we had heard before, was wliolly unintelligible to every ear, that of his priest ex- cepted; and it was, therefore, that not till the latter gave us an interpretation, which did not commence before the spirit had finished, that wc lefir»ed the purport of this extraordinary commu ttication. The spirit, as we were now informed by tlie IH'icst, had, during his vshort absence, crossed Lake Huron, and even proceeded as far as Fort Niagam, which i^ at the head of Lake Ontario, and thence to Montreal. At Fort Niaj»ai-a, he had seen no great number of soldiers ; but, on descending tlie Saint Lawrence, as low as Montreal, he had found the river covered with bouts, and the boats filled with soldiers, in number like the leaves of the «.- ir«4.] ADVENTURES* in trees. He had met them on their way up the river, eoming to make war upon the Indians. The chief had a third question to propose, and the spirit, without a fresh journey to Fort Niagara, was able to give it an' instant and most favoumble answer : ** If," said the chief, ** the Indians visit ^ Sir William Joluison, will they be received as " friends ?" ' ■ *< Sir WiUiam Johnson," said the spirit, (and af^ ter thes{»rit, the pnest.) *< Sir William Johnson *' will fill their canoes v/iih presents ; with blankets, ' *i kettles, guns, gun-powder and shot, and large ^* barrels of rum, such as the stoutest of the In- *' dians will not be able to lift ; and every man will ** return in safety to his family.** At this, the transport was universal ; and, amid the clapping of hands, a hundred voices exclaimed, *' I will go, too ! I will go, ttK) !" The questions of public interest being resolved, individuals were now permitted to aeize the op- portunity of inquiring into the condition of their absent friends, and the fate of such as were sick. I observed that the answers, given to these questions, allowed of much latitude of inter- pretation. '^ II A* I I 172 TRAVELS AND [A. D. f.''i!* 'ti li 1 i'Jn '•rf I ];■■ ■ Amid this general inquisitiveness, I yielded to the solicitations of my own anxiety for the future ; and having first, like the rest, made my offering of tobacco, I inquired, whether or not I should ever revisit my native country^? The question be. ing put by the priest, the tent shook as usual ; after which I received this answer: " That I *' should take courage, and fear no danger, for that " nothing would happen to hurt me ; and that I> *' should, in the end, reach my friends and country " in safety." These assurances wrought so strong. ]y on my gratitude, that I presented an additional and extra offering of tobacco. The Great Turtle continued to be consult- ed till near midnight, when all the crowd dispersed to their respective lodges. I was on the watch, tlu-ough the scene I have described, to detect the particular contrivances by which the fraud was car- ried on ; but, such was the skill displayed in the performance, or such my deficiency of penetration, that I made no discoveries, but came away as I went, with no more than those general surmises which will naturally be entertained by every reader.* liit 'ill 'V- lit); (j9p»4 h ^ 4 , ,, J mh *.AI. de Champlain has left an account of an exhibition of ty.e nature here described, vrhich may be seen in Charle- voix's Histoire et Description Generale de la Nouvelle France, livre IV. This took place in the year 1 609, and was performed among a p^rty of warriors, composed of Al* 1764.] ADVENTURES. 173 On the 10th of June, I embarked with the Indian deputation, composed of sixteen men. Twenty had been the number originally designed ; and up- ward of fifty actually engaged themselves to the council for the undertaking ; to say nothing of the general enthusiasm, at the moment of hearing the Great Tur tie's promises. But, exclusively of the degree of timidity which still prevailed, we are to take into account the various domestic calls, which might supersede all others, and detain many mih their fiimilies. gonquins, Montagnez and Hurons. Carver idtnessed anc- ther, among the Ciistinaux. In each case} the details are somewhat different, but the outline is the same. M. de Cham- plain mentions, that he saw iht jongleur shake the stakes or pillars of the tent. I was not so fortunate ; but, this is the obvious explanation of that part of the mystery to which it refers. Captain Carver leaves the whole in darkness. fr''*' I'll! wm •k a- >i i: i f i Vi' *' (■M.;i ^, 5' i I " '/ • I , - -ii/J- It'li ;i. ' iii,- Ji* ! I'll -.4 - J^. CHAPTER XXlI. Voyage from the Sault de Sainte-Marie to Nhgaro^ Hospitable reception from the Missisakies. Au- thor alarmed by a Hattle-snake-^and is about to kill it, Indians interfere^^eclare it to be a Manito — treat it accordingly. Inoffensive de- meanour cf the Ratth'Snake. Indians appre- hend some evil from the Author'' s crime against the Manito, Overtaken by a gale qf TviruL Prayers and Sacrifices to the Rattle*snake. Ar- rive at Fort Nie^ara, IN the evening of the secqnd day of our voyage, we reached the mouth of the Missisaki, where wr found about forty Indians, by whom we vTrt received with abundant kindness, and at nigfat regaled at a great feast, held on account of our Sirrival. The viand was a preparation of the roe of the sturgeon, beat up, and boiled, and of the con- sistence of porridge. After eating, several speeches were made to us, of which the general topic? was a request, that mt ir64.] »f TRAVELS, Ice. IT! should recommend the village to Sir WiOiBm Johnson. This request was also specially address- ed to me, and I promised to comply with it. On tlie 14th of June, we passed the village of La Cloche, of which the greater part of the inhabi* tsfxita were absent, ^ing already on a visit to Sir William Johnson. This circumstance greatly en* couraged the companions of my voyage, who now saw that they were not the first to run into danger. The next day, about noon, the wind blowing very hard, we were obliged to put ashore at Point aux Grondines, a place of which some description has been given above. While the Indians erected a hut, I employed myself in making a fire. As I waa gathering wood, an unusual sound fixed my atten- tion for a moment ; but, as it presently ceased, I and as I saw nothing firom which I could suppose jit to proceed, I continued my employment, tiU, adrancing further, I was alarmed by a repetition. I imagined that it came irom above my head ; but, after looking that way in vain, I cast my ryes on the ground, and there discovered a rattle- [bnake, at not more than two feet from my na- d legs. The reptile was coiled, and its head Iraised considerably aboAx its body. Had I ad- [vanced another step before my discovery, I must have trodden upon it. -j^pp^- 176 TRAVELS AND [A.D. I no sooner saw the snake, than I hastened to the canoe, in order to procure my gun ; but, the Indians observing what I was doing, inquired the occasion, and being informed, begged me tode. sist. At the same time, they followed me to the spot, with their pipes and tobacco-pouches in their hands. On returning, I fdbnd the snake coiled. ]ih Wii t: ^m^ If u f^ The Indians, on their part, surrounded it, all addressing it by turns, and calling it their ^amJL father ; but }ret keeping at some distance. Du- ring this part of the ceremony, they filled their pipes ; and now each blew the smoke toward the snake, who, as it appeared to me, really received it with pleasure. In a word, after remaining coiled, and receiving incense, for the space of half an hour, it stretched itself along the ground, in visible good humour. Its length was between four and five feet. Having remained outstretched for some time, at last it moved slowly away, the Indians following it; and still addressing it by the title of grand-fii- ther, beseeching it to take care of their families jduring their absence, and to be pleased to open the heart of Sir William Johnson, so that he might shcfw them charity, and fill their canoe with rum. One of the chiefs added a petition, that the snake would take no notice of the insult which had been &■•. M: »; 1764.] ADVENTURES. 177 offered him by the Englishman, who would even have put him to death, but for the interference of the Indians, to whom it was hoped he would im- pute no part of the offence. They further request- ed, 'that he would remain, and inhabit their coun- try, and not return among the Englisli ; that is, go eastward. After the rattle-snake was gone, I learned that [this was the first time that an individual of the spc- Icies had been seen so far to the northward and westward of the river Des Fran9ais ; a circum- jstance, moreover, from which my companions ^ere disposed to infer, that this manito had come, )r been sent, on purpose to meet them ; that his errand had been no other than to stop them on their i'dy ; and that consequently it would be mostadvisa- )le to return to the point of departure. I was so for- mate, however, as to preyail with them to em- rk ; and at six o'clock in the evening we again [ncamped. Very little was spoken of through le evening, the ratde- snake excepted. Early the next morning we proceeded. We id a serene sky and very little v.dnd, and the In- |ians therefore determined on steering across the [e, to an island which just appeared in the hori- lon ; saving, by this course, a distance of thirty liles, which would be lost in keeping the shore. 13 ■'*^/' ^1^^-^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) 1.0 I.I rii ISO |2£ 1^ ^ 12.2 HI* Hr ii£ 12.0 I 1.25 nil 1.4 1.6 m oS / '/ /A fliotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S80 (716)872-4503 ^'4^ '^ 178 TRAVELS AND [A. D. At nine o'clock, A. M. we had a light breeze astern, to enjoy the benefit of which we hoisted sail. Soon after, the wind increased, and the In- dians, begmning to be alarmed, frequently called on the rattle-snake to come to their assistance. By degrees the waves grew high ; and at 11 o'clock it blew a hurricane, and we expecteu every moment to be swallowed up. From prayers, the Indians now proceeded to sacrifices, both alike offered to the god rattlesnake, or manito-kinibic. One of the chiefs took a dog, and after tying its fore legs together, threw it overboard, at the same time c^ing on the snake to preserve us from being drowned, and desiring him to satisfy his hunger with the carcass of the dog. The snake was un- propitious, and the wind increased. Another chief sacrificed another dog, wiUi the addition of some tobacco. In the prayer which accompanied these gifts, he besought the snake, as before, not to avenge upon the Indians the insult which he had received from myself, in the conception of a design to put him to death. He assured the snake, that I was absolutely an Englishman, and of kin neither to him nor to them. At the conclusion of tliis speech, an Indian, who sat near* me, observed, that if we were drowned it would be for my fault alone, and that I ought my- self to be sacrificed, to api)ease the an^ry manito ; 1764.] ADVENTURES. 179 nor was I without apprehensions, that in case of ex- tremity, this would be my fate ; but, happily for me, the storm at length abated, and we reached the island safely. The next day was calm, and we arrived at the entrance* of the navigation which leads to Lake aux Claies.f We presently passed two short car- rj'ing-places, at each of which were several lodges of Indians, J containing only women and children, the men being gone to the council at Niagara. From this, as from a former instance, my compa- nions derived new courage. On the 18th of June, we crossed Lake aux Claies, which appeared to be upward of twenty miles in length. At its further end, we came to the carrying-place of Toranto.§ Here the In- * This is the Bay of Matchedash, or Matchitashk. tThis lakCf which is now called Lake Simcoe) lies be- tween Lakes Huron and Ontario. , ^ \ These Indians are Chipeways, of the particular descrip- tion called Missisakies ; and from their residence at Matche- dash, or Matchitashk) also called Matchedash, or Matchi- tashk Indians. < ^ Toranto, or Toronto, is the name of a French trading- house, on Lake Ontario, built near the site of the present town of York, the capital of the province of Upper Canada. ■ » 180 TRAVELS AND [A.D. ^ >i\ dians obliged me to carry a burden of more than a hundred pounds weight. The day was very hot, and the woods and marshes abounded with mosqui- toes ; but, the Indians w Jked at a quick pace, and I could by no means see myself left behind. The whole country was a thick forest, through which our only road was a foot-path, or such as, in Ame- rica, is exclusively termed an Indian path* \\^ ' I' ' II J^'ii Next morning, at ten o'clock, we reached the shore of Lake Ontario. Here we were employed two days in making canoes, out of the bark of the elm-tree, in which we were to transport our- selves to Niagara? For this purpose, the Indians first cut down a tree ; then stripped off the bark, in one entire sheet, of about eighteen feet in length, the incision being lengthwise. The canoe was now complete, as to its top, bottom and sides. Its ends were next closed, by sewing the bark toge- ther ; and a few ribs and bars being introduced, the architecture was finished. In this manner, we made two canoes ; of which one carried eight men, and the other, nine. On the 21st, we embarked at Toranto, and en- camped, in the evening, four miles short of Fort Niagara, which the Indians would not approach till morning. ^ 1764.] ADVE^JTURES. 181 At dawn, the Indians were awake, and presently assembled in council, still doubtful as to the fate they were to encounter. I assured them of the most friendly welcome ; and at length, after paint- ing themselves with the most lively colours, in token of their own peaceable views, and after sing- ing the song which is ip use among them on going into danger, they embarked, and made for Point Missisaki, which is on the north side of the mouth of the river or strait of Niagara, as the fort is on the south. A few minutes after, I crossed over to the fort ; and here I was received by Sir William Johnson, in a manner for which I have ever been gratefully attached to his persoft, and memory. Thus was completed my escape, from the suf- ferings and dangers which the capture^ of Fort Michilimackinac brought upon me ; but, the pro- perty which I had carried into the upper country was left behind. The reader will therefore be far from attributing to me any idle or unaccountable motive, when he finds me returning to the scene of my misfortunes. v'Ji^4 CHAPTER XXIII. I. i.f M iflnlfi '^ ,>••*« Army^ under General Bradstreet, prepares to raise the Siege of Detroit. Author induced to joint ond set outy a second time, for Michilimacki' nac — appointed to the command of an Indiari Corps. Siege of DHroit raised. General Peace with the Indians, Detachment garri- sons Fort Michilimackinac, Author visits the Sault de Sainte-Marie-^returns to Mtchilimack- inde, / ' AT Fort'Niagara, I found General Bradstreet, with a force of three thousand men, preparing to embark for D6troit, with a view to raise the siege which it had sustained against Pontiac, for twelve months together. The English, in this time, had lost many men ; and Pontiac had been frequently on the point of carrying the place, though gallantly defended by Major Gladwyn, its commandant. v General Bradstreet, having learned my histor}^ informed me, that it was his design, on arriving at Detroit, to detach a body of troops to Michili- mackina*, and politely assured me of his services, 1764.] TRAVELS, 8cc. r 183 in recovering my property there. With these temptations before me, I was easily induced to fol- s services, low the general to Detroit. But, I was not to go as a mere looker-on. On the contrary, I was invested with the honour of a command in a corps, of the exploits, however, of which, I can give no very flattering account. Besides the sixteen Saulteurs, or Chipeways of the Sauk de Sainte- Marie, with whom I had come to Fort Niagara, there were already at that place eighty Matchedash Indians, the same whose lodges we passed, at "the carrying-places of Lake aux Claies. These ninety-six men being formed into what was called the Indian Battalion, were furnish- ed with necessaries ; and I was appointed to be their leader — me, whose best hope it had very lately been, to live through their forbearance. On the 10th of July, the army marched for Fort Schlausser, a stockaded post above the Great Falls ; and I ordered my Ind'^ans to march also. Only ten, of the whole number, were ready at the call ; byt the rest promised to follow the next morning. With my skeleton-battalion, therefore, I proceeded to the fiM-t, and there waited the whole of the next day, impatiently expecting the remainder. I waited in vain ; and the day following returned to Fort Nia- gara, when I found that they had all deserted, going mil' ;i^ '"iu 184 TRAVELS AND LA.D. back t(v their homes, equipments and all, by the way of Toranto. I thought their conduct, though dishonest, not very extraordinary; sinbe the Indians employed in the siege of Detroit, against whom we were leading them, were at peace with their nation, and their own friends and kinsmen. — Amid the general desertion, four Mis- sisakies joined the ten whom I had left at Fort Schlausser. mmmi For the transport of the army, on Lake Erie, barges had been expressly built, capable of carry- ing a hundred men each, with their provisions. One of these was allowed to me and my Indians. On the 14th, we embarked at Fort Schlausser, and in the evening encamped at Fort Erie. Here the Indians growing drunk, amused themselves witfi a disorderly firing of their muskets, in the camp. On this. General Bradstreet ordered all the rum in the Indian quarters to be seized, and thrown SLWzy. The Indians, inconsequence, threatened to desert ; and the general, judging it proper to assume a high tone, immediately assembled the chiefs, (for, among the fourteen Indians, there were more chiefs than one,) and told them, that he had no further occasion for their services, and that such of them as should follow his camp, would be consi- dered as soldiers, and subjected to military disci- pline accordingly. After hearing the general's LA.D. aU, by conduct, y ; sinbe Detroit, were at lends and bur Mis- i at Fort ^ake Erie, e of carry- )rovisions. Indians. khlausser, lie. Here themselves its, in the ered all the and thrown threatened proper to :mbled the there were that he had \d that such |d be consi- itary disci- le general's ir«4.] ADVENTURES. 185 speech, the majority set out for Fort Niagara, the same evening, and thence returned to their own country, by the way of Toranto ; and thus was my poor battalion still further diminished ! On our fifth day from Fort Schlausser, we reached Presqu*isle, where we dragged our barges over the neek of land, but not without straining their timbers ; and with more loss of time, as I be- lieve, than if we had rowed round. On the twen- tieth day, we were off the mouth of the river which falls into Sandusky Bay, where a council of war was held, on the question, whether it were more advisa- ble to attack ar.d destroy the Indian villages, on the Miami, or to proceed for Detroit direct. Early the next morning, it having been determined, that con- sidering the villages were populous, as well as hos- tile, it was necessary to destroy them, we entered the Miami; but were presently met by a deputation^ offering peace. The offer was accepted ; but it was not till after two days, during which we had begun to be doubtful of the enemy*s intention, that the chiefs arrived. When they came, a sort of ar- mistice was agreed upon ; and diey promised to meet the general at Detroit, within fifteen days. At that place, terms of peace were to be settled, in a general council. On the 8th of August, we landed at Detroit. 24 /* HSim \ ^^' Jvith the English, fled to tlie Illinois.* On the day following that of the treaty of peace, Captain Howard was detached, with two companies, and three hundred Canadian volun- *. / * ♦ It is very possible^ nevertheless, that Pontiac subse- quently joined the English, and that a portion of what is re^ lated by Carver, concerning his latter history and death, b true. It cannot, however, be intended to insinuate, that an English governor was paity to the assassination : ** Pontiac henceforward seemed to have laid aside the (* animosity he had hitherto borne towards the ilnglish, and « apparendy became their zealous friend. To reward tliis " new attachment, and to insure a continuance of it, govern- *< ment allowed him a handsome pension. But his restle&s « and intriguing spirit would not suffer him to be g^teful « for this allowance, and his conduct at length grew suspi- (( cious ; so that going, in the year 1767, to hold a cotmcil <' in the country of the Illinois, a faithful Indian^ who was *< either commissioned by one of the English governors, or ** instigated by the love he bore the English nation, attended <* him as a spy ; and being convinced from the speech Pen- <* tiac made Li the council, that he still retained his former << prejudices ag^nst those for whom he now professed a ** friendship, he plimged his knife into his hcartf as soon as ^'^ he had done speakings and laid him dead on the spot.'* [A. n. al; and a vho could low oppo- led by his 9^ith the : treaty of , with two lian volun- >ontiac subsc- of what is re- f and death, is inuate, that an n: \M aside the le Engtish, and To re^»%rd this e of it, goxcrn- iut his rcsae&s to be grateful grew suspi- hold a council Indian, who was ih governors, or nation, attended le speech Pon- ined lu8 former kow professed a icart, as soon as >n the spot." 1764.] ADVENTURES. 187 teers, for Fort Michilimackinac ; and I embarked at the same time From D6troit, to the m6uth of Lake Huron, is called a distance of eighty miles. From the fort to Lake Sainte-Claire, which is only seven miles, the lands are cultivated on both sides the strait, and appeared to be laid out in very com- fortable farms. In the strait, on the right hand, is a village of Hurons, and at the mouth of Lake Sainte-Claire, a village of Otawas. We met not a single Indian on our voyage, the report of the arrival of the English army having driven everj^ one from the shores of the lake. On our arrival at Michilimackinac, the Otawas of L' Arbre Croche were sent for to the fort. They obeyed the summons, bringing with them some Chipeway chiefs, and peace was concluded with both. For myself, having much property due to me at Sainte- Marie's, I resolved on spending the'winter at that place. I was in part successful ; and in the spring I returned to Michilimackinac. THE pause, which I shall here make in my nar- rative, might with some propriety have been pla- 188 TRAVELS, 8cr. [ir64. ced at the conclusion of the preceding chapter ; but, it is here that my first series of adventures are brought truly to an end. What remains, belongs to a second enterprize, wholly independent on the preceding. f,Sl> OF PAkT T|IE F4RS1-. / [1764. ! ■ ; chapter ; :ntures arc IS, belongs ent on the i^-*;. % it .:j> . PART THE SECOND. igiii H S^'l &,-. fi wWm t th m TRAVELa AND ADVENTURES, 1»ART tHE SECOKO CHAPTER I. fiir-trade permitted only to licensed andprwilegei persona. Author obtains the exclusive trode if Lake Superior, Further commercial details qf Michikmackinac* Author proceeds to the Sault de Sainte-Marie-^embarks Jbr his H^ntering' ground at Chagouemig, Grave qf the Iroquois -^tradition, Hvver Ontonagon*^ Sturgeon-Jish- ery — and Copper, Indiana beat thi Copper into SpoonSf Bracelets^ ^c, Chagouemig — dis- tressed state qflndims there, Indians supplied'^ go to the chase, UNDER the French government rS Canada, the ftir.titide was subject to a variety ol regulations, established and enforced by the rt)yal authority ; and, in 1765, the period at which I began to prose- :tr :' r i I, iM> 'i # 199 TRAVELS AND *E4-ft cute it. anew, some remains of the ancient system were still preservedt No person could go into the countries lying north- Westward of Detroit, unless furnished with a license ; and the exclusive trade of particular districts was capable of being enjoyed^ ih virtue of grants from military commanders. \"^i .* m ..'•I Urn \\ i\ ^ ' i'",P#'-.'l'i-> .1*' The exclusive trade of Lake Superior was given to myself, by the commandant of Fort Michili^ mackinac ; and to prosecute it, I purchased goods, which I found at this post, at twelve months' credit. My stock was the freight of four canoes, and I took it at the price of ten thousand pounds weight of good aikl merchantable beaver. It is in beaver that accounts are kept at Michilimackinac ; but in defect of this article, other furs and skins are ac- cepted in payments, being first reduced unto their value in beaver* Beaver was at this time at the price of two shillings and sixpence per pound, Michilimackinac-currency ; otter skins, at six shillings each; marten, at one shilling and sixpence, and others in proportion. To carry the goods to my wintering-ground in Lake Superior^ I engaged twelve men, at two hun- dred and fifty livres, ^, the same currency, each ; that is, a hundred pounds weight of beaver. For provisions, I purchased fifty bushels of maize, at ten pounds of beaver per bushel. At this place, specie was so wholly out of the question, that ir ■9> w^y 4Pve;ntur^8, W going t^ ^ c^tine, yoij took whh yq^ % li¥urt)eii^ 3kilV $P pay yqur reckoning.* ■■ -I On the Uthof July, 1765, I embarked for the 1| Sault de Sainte-Marie, where, on iny arrival, f took into partiiership M* Cadott?, vh^m I havf^ already had frequent occasion to pa^e ; , and on thfi 26th I proceeded for my wintering-grouodji wl4pjl, was to be fixed at Chagouemig. The next morning, I crossed the Strait of Sainte> Marie, or of Lake Superior, to a point, whijchthe Chipeways call the Grave of the ^roqi^oi^. Tf^ this name there belongs a tradition, that the Iro- quois, whoj at a certain time, mad/e war upon the Chipe^ways, with tb^ design of dispossessing then^ of their country, encamp.ed, one night, ^ thoi|sand strong, upon this point; where, thinl^g themselves^ siBcure from their numbers, they indulged in le^t^ log on the bodies of their pHboners. The sight» however, of the sufferings and humiUation of their kindred and friends, so wrought upon the Chipe- ways* wHq bf^held ^hem froin the opposite ^hore, that with the largest number of warriors they could col- let* kl^t which amounted only to three hundred,^ they crossed th^ channel, ai|d at break of day felt upoa lH« IroqUQIs, nQW sleeping after their e3^^8se% "I Si^eP^i. Chapter 5. 25 t 194 TRAVELS AND [A.D. Mia put one WA all to death. Of their own party, they lost but a single man ; and he died of a wound which he received from an old woman, who stabbed i him with an awl. She was at work, making shoes for the family, when he broke into the lodge, near the entrance of which she sat. — Some of the old men of my crew remembered at this place to have seen bones. On the lake, we fell in with Indians, of whom I purchased provisions. One party agreed to accom- pany me, tp hunt for nle, on condition of being supplied with necessaries on credit.^ ■■', t ' ; On the 19th of August, we reached the mouth of the river Ontonagan, one of the largest on the south side of the lake. At the mouth, was an In- dian village ; alid at three leagues above, a fall, at the foot of which sturgeon were at this season so abundant, that a month's subsistence for a regi- ment could have been taken in a few hours. But, I found this river chiefly remarkable for the abundance of virgin copper, which is on itsbanksand in its neighbourhood, and of which the reputation h at present more geikrally spread, than it was at thfe time of this my first visit. The attempts, which were shortly after made, to work the mines of Lake Superior to advantage, will very soon claim a place, among the facts which I am to describe. 1765.]* ADVENTURES. 195 The copper presented itself to the eye, in masses of various weight. The Indians showed me one ci twenty pounds. They were used to manufac«» ture this metal into spoons and bracelets for them- selves. In the perfect state in which they found it, it required nothing but to be beat into shape. The Pi* w4rtic» or Iron-river, enters the lake to the westward of the Qntonagan; and here, as is pretended, silver was: found, while the country was in the possession of the French. ^ • Beyond this river, I met more Indians, whom I furnished with merchandise on credit. The prices were for a stroud blanket, ten beaver-skins ; for a white blanket, eight; a pound of powder, two ; a pound of shot, or of ball, one ; a gim, twenty ; an axe, of one pound weight, two ; a knife, one. — Beaver, it will be remembered, was worth, at Michilimackinac, two shillings* and sixpence a pound, in the currency of that place ; that is, six livres, or a dollar. On my arrival at Chagouemig, I found fifty lodges of Indians there. These people were i^iril^ naked, their trade having been interrupted, firgit b^ the English invasion of Canada, and next by I^on-?' tiac'swar^ Adding the Indians of Chagouemig to those wluch I had brought with me, I had now a hundred \ iii '1 ^1 H ff> tm tftAV£L^ ifti. tiTW. r^tn fiimilies^ to all of whom I wan i«quii«d Vb advance goods oii credit. At a couticil^ ti-hlch I was inf b. ted to attend^ the men declared, that tmliesa their demands were complied with, their wives and ol^ dren would perish ; for thdt thfere were iieithef ahli- iilumtion nor clothing \th among them. UAdlHr Ih^se circumstances, I saw my self obliged to 4i«. tribute goods, to the amount of three ^otiskliA beaver-skins. This done, the Ihdicms went on • their hunt, at the distance of a hundred le%udft A clerk, acting as my agent, accompanied them to Fond du Lac, taking wiUi him two k)Qded canoes. Meanwhile, at the expense of six days^laibottr, I was provided with a veky ooliifbrtable h CH AOQUEMIG^ or Chagouemigon^ might at this period be regarded as the metropolis of th^ Chipeways, of whom the tri|e name is 0'ehibbuoi/i The chiefs informed me, that they had frequentlji^ attacked the Nadowessies, (by |he French callea Sioux or JVadouessioux,) with whom they are always at war, with fifteen hundred itien, including in this number the fighting-men from Fond du Lac, or the head of Lake Superior. The oiuse of the perpetual war, carried on between these two nations, is this, that both claim, as their exclusive hunting-ground, the tract of country which lies t ■''"Ji I j\ m M 198 TRAVELS AND [A. D. between them, and uniformly attack each other when they meet upon it. m' I UT y The Chipeways of Chagouemig are a hand- some well-made people ; and much more cleanly, as well as much more regular in the government of their families, than the Chipeways of Lake Huron. The women have ag^eable features, and take great pains in dressing their hair, which consists in neatly dividing it on the forehead and top of the head, and in plaiting and turning it up behind. The men paint as well their whole body as their hoc ; sometimes with charcoal, and sometimes with white ochre ; ~and appear to study how to make themselves as unlike as possible to any thing human. The- clothing, in which I . found thei^ both men and women, was chiefly of dressed deer-skin, European manufactures having been for sonie time out of their reach. In this respect, itivas not long, after my goods were dispersed ong them, before they were scarcely to be own, for the same people. The women height- ened the colour of their cheeks, and realty anima- ted their beauty, by a liberal use of vermilion. ;♦ t My house being completed, my winter's food was the next object ; and for this purpose, with the assistance of my men, I soon took two thousand trout and white-fish, the former frequently weigh- [A. D. ach other •e a hand- TC cleanly, ^eminent ot ake Huron, i take great consists in 1 top of the up behind, ^y as their [ sometimes udy how to to anything ^ound theiji^ ■ of dressed iving been this respect, :re dispersed •cely to be lomen height- realjy anima- irmilion. winter's food 3se, with the [two thousand luently weigh- irss.] ADVENTURES. 199 ing fifty pounds each, and the latter commonly from four to six. We preserved them by sus- pending them by the tail in the open air. These, without bread or salt, were our food through all the winter; the men being free to consume what quan- tity they pleased, and boiling or roasting them whenever they thought proper. After leaving Michilimackinac, I saw no bread ; and I found less difficulty, in reconciling myself to the privation, than I could have anticipated. On the 15th of December, the Bay of Chagoue- mig was frozen entirely over. After this, I resumed my former amusement of spearing trout, and sometimes caught a hundred of these fish in a day, each weighing, on an average, twenty pounds. My house, which stood in the bay, was. sheltered by an island of fifteen miles in length, and between which and the main the channel is four miles broad. On the island, there was formerly a French trading-post, much frequented ; and in its neigh- bourhood a l^ge Indian village. To th^ south- east is a lake, called Lake des Outaouais, from the Otawas, its former possessors ; but it is now the property of the Chipeways. From the first hunting-party which brought me furs, I experienced some disorderly behaviour; but M» TRAVELS AN© [A.B. » I II ill ^1^- ^iS'^ happily witlioiit serious issue. Having crowded Into my house, and demanded rum, which I refur sed them, they talked of indulging themselves in a general pillage, and I found myself aban- doned by all my men. Fortunately, I was able to arm myself; and on my threatening to shoot the first who should lay his hands on any thing, the tumult began to subside, and was presendy after at ^n end. When over, my men appeared to be truly ashamed of their cowardice, and made promises never to behave in a similar manner again. Admonished of my danger, I now resolved on burying the liquor which I had ; and the Indians, once persuaded that I had none to give them, went and came very peaceably, paying their debts and purchasing goods. In the month of March, the manufacture of ms^le-sugar engaged as usual their attention. Wlule the snow still lay on the ground, I propo- sed to the Indians to join me in a hunting excursion, and they readily agreed. Shortly after we went out, my companions discovered dents or hollows ki the snow, which they affirmed to be the footsteps of a bear, made in the beginning of the winter, afler the first snow. — As for me, I should have passed over the same grpund without acquiring any such inforraatioA ; and probably without remarlung ^ crowded ch I refur hemaelves self abun- as able to [> shoot the thing, the ^tly after at to be truly e proimses am. I resolved on the In^Uans, ; them, went fir debts and March, the as usual their rnd, I pFopo- ig excursion, ter we went or hollows the footsteps the winter, should have acquiring any kut remarUng 1761.] ADVENTURES. S0& Uie very fiiint traces which they wfpt atde to distinguish, and ceruunly without deducing so many particular facts : but, what can be more credible, than that long habits of close observation in the forest, should give the Indian hunter some advantages, in the exercke of his daily callmg? The Indians were not deceived ; for, on following the traces which they had found, they were led to a tree, at the root of which was a bear. As I had proposed this hunt, I was, by the In^ dian custom, the master and the proprietor of all tlie game ; but, the head of the family which com- posed my party begged to have the bear, alleging, that he piuch desired to make a feast to the Kichi Manito, or Great Spirit, who had preserved him« self and his family through the winter, and brought them in safety to the lake. On his receiving my consent, the women went to the spot where we had killed the bear^ and where the carcass had been left in safety, buried deep in the snow. Tliey brought the booty back with them, and kettles being hung bver the fires, the whole bear was dressed for the feast. * About an hour after dark, accompanied by four of my men, I repaired to the place of sacrifice, ac- cording to invitation. The nqmber of the Indians exactly equalled ours, there being two men and thiee women j so that togethar we were ten per- 26 208 TRAVELS ANO [A.B. ' j > E* ' i ■ '* 'l:i ' ' MmW' i mlWwm p. pi* sons, upon whom it was incumbent to eat up the whole bear. I was obliged to receive into my own plate, or dish, a portion of not less than ten pounds weight, and each of my men were supplied with twice this quantity. As to the Indians, one of them had to his share the head, the breast, the heart, with its surrounding fat, and all the four feet; and the whole of this he swallowed in two hours. He, as well as the rest, had finished before I had got through half my toil; and my men were equally behind-hand. In this situation, one of them resorted to an experiment which had a ludicrous issue, and which, at the same time, served to dis- cover a fresh feature in the superstitions of the In- dians. Haying, first observed to us, that a part of the cheer would be very acceptable to him the next day, when his appetite should be returned, he withdrew a part of the contents of his dish, and made it fast to the ^rdle which he wore under his shirt. "While he disposed in this maihner of his su- perabundance, I, who found myself unable to per- form my part, requested the Indians to assist me ; and this they cheerfully did, eating what I had found too much, with as much apparent ease as if their stomachs had beenpreviously empty. The feast being brought to an end, and the prayer and thanks- ^ving pronounced, those near the door depart- ed ; but, when the poor fellow who had concealed his meat, and who had to pass from the further end of the lodge, rose up to go, two dogs, guided by irea.] ADVENTURES. 203 Hnt scent, laid hold of the treasure, and tore it to the ground. The Indians were greatly astonished ; but, presently observed, that the Great Spirit had led the dogs by inspiration to the act, in order to frustrate the profane attempt to steal away this por- tion of the offering. As matters stood, the course they took was to put the meat into the fire, and there consume it. bn the 20th of April, the ice broke up, and se^ veral canoes arrived, filled with women and chiU dren, who reported that the men of their band were all gone out to war, against the Nadowessies. On the 15th of May, a part of the warriors, with fiome others, arrived, in fifty canoes, almost every one of which had a cargo of furs. The warriors gave me some account of their campaign ; stating, that they had set out in search of the enemy, four hundred strong ; sand that on the fourth day from dieir leaving their village, they had met the enemy» and been engaged in batde. The battle, as they related, raged the greater part of tbe day ; and in the evening, the Nadowessies, to the number of six hundred, fell back, across a river which lay behind them, encamping in this position for the night. The Chipeways had thirty-five killed ; and they \took advanU^ of the sus|)ensiOn of the fray, to prepare the bodies of their friends, and then retired to a small distance from the place, expecting the Nadowessies to reoross the stream in the morning, t », ■ 1 ». ', i)" tP lii \ ¥■■% m-^^ .V 204 ( THAVELS AMD [A. H. and come aif^ain to blows. In this, however, they wereiiited ; for the KadoM?«e8ties contUHied ^ir retreat, without even doing the honours of war^o the skum To do these honours is to scalp ; and to prepare the btxUes is to dre^s and paint thu remains of the dead, preparatorily to this mark of attention from the enemy : ** The neglect,'* said the Chipeways, '* was an af&ont to ^s*— a dkgrace ; " because we consider it an honour, to have the ** scalps of our countrymen exhibited in the Tilla- ** ges of our enemies, in testimony of our vaiour.'* The concourse of Indians, alneady mentioned* with others who came after, aU rich in furs, ena^ bkd tt^ very speedily to ciosfe my traffic tar the ^p:ii^, disposing of all the goods, which, on tekmg M. Cadotte intopartnership, had been left in my own hands. I found myself in possession of a hundred iofid fifty packs of beaver, wdghing m hundred pounds each, besides twenty-five packs of ottor ind marten skins ; and widi this partof die fruits laf my adventure, I embarked for Midulimackinac, sufing in company widi fifty canots of Indiam, idx> had still a himdred packs of beBtyer, which I wastmdble to purchase. -^ mark of >* said the disgraces have the 1 die tUla- [f vaioiir*'* nentioned* furs, cna- fie for the tinmyowi a hundred m hundred (8 of otter f the fruits imackinac, 3f indiaifi, er, whidi I ires] ADVENTURES. SX)S see, and to wYiichlhad the satisfaction of being led» was a inass of copper, of the weight, according to my estimate, of no less than five ton. Such was its pure and malleable state, that with an axe I was able to cut off a portion, weighing a hundred pounds. On viewing the surrounding sur&ce, I conjectured that the mass, at some period or other, had rolled from the side of a lofty hill, which rises athsback* 'i,.»i i ^* time atdie the<^ior- rtth IndiiD irestiyto ■jt'f i 1' fft , iT4 el i J) ■,?? „ •> f CHAPTER III. Author winters at the Sault de Sainte-Marie* Scarcity of Frovisiom. The Man-eater. I PASSED the winter Mowmg at the Saultde Sainte-Marie. Fish, at this place, are usually so abundant, in the autumn, that precautions are not taken for a supply of provisions for the winter; but, this year the fishery failed, and the early setting-in of the frost rendered it impracticable to obtain as- sistance from Michilimackinac. To the increase of our difficulties, five men, whom, on the prospect of distress, I had sent to subsist themselves at a dis- tant post, came back, on the day before Christmas- day, driven in by want. Under these circumstances, and h^iving heard that fish might be found in Oak*bay, call^ by the French, Anse si laPeche, or Fishing-cove, which is on the north side of Lake Superior, at the distance of twelve leagues from the Sault, I lost no time in repairing thither, taking with me several men, with a pint of maize only for each person. fM -^^ 1767.] TRAVELS, &c. 207 In Oak-bay, we were generally able tb obtun a supply of food, sometimes doing so with great febili- ty, but at others going to bed hungry. After being here a fortnight, we were joined by a body of In- dians, flying, like ourselves, from famine. Two days after, there came a young Indian out of the woods, alone, and reporting that he had left the family to which he belonged behind, in a starving ccHidition, and^nable, from their weakly and ex- hausted state, to pursue their journey to the bay. The appearance of this youth was frightful ; and from his squalid figure there issued a stench which none of us could support. His arrival struck our camp with horror and un- easiness ; and it was not long before the Indians came to me, saying, that they suspected he had been eating human flesh, and even that he had killed and devoured the family which he pretended to have left behind. These charges, upon being questioned, he de- nied ; but, not without so much equivocation in his answers as to increase the presumption agsunst him% In consequence, the Indians determined on travelling a day's journey, on his track ; observing, that they should be able to discover, from his en- campments, whether he were guilty or not. The next day, they returned, bringing with them a hu- man hand and skull. The hand had been left 3 * t? H t Ll I Jj ■■%., 2oa TRAVELS AND [A. Oi roastirig before a fire, while ^ intestines, taken out of the body from which it was cut^hung fresh upon « neighbouring tree* The youth, being informed of these discoveries, and further questioned, confessed the crime of idiich he was accused. From the account he now proceeded to give, it appeared that the family had consisted of his uncle and aunt, tj^ir four children smd himself. One of the children was a boy of fifteen years of age. His uncle, after firing at se- veral beasts of the chase, all of which he missed, fell into despondence, and persuaded himself that it was the will of the Great Spirit that he should perish. In this state of mind, he requested his wife to kill him. The woman refused to comply ; but the two lads, one of them, as has been said, the nephew, and the other the son of the unhappy man, agreed between themselves to murder him, to pre- vent, as our informant wished us to believe, his murdering them. Accomplishing their detestable purpose, they devoured the body ; and famine pressing upon them still closer, they successively killed the three youngel^children, upon whose flesh diey subsisted for some time, and with a ]j)^rt of wluc^ ^e parricides at length set out for the lake, leaving the woman, who was too feeble to travel, to her fete. On their way, their foul victuals fiuled ; the youth before us killed his compa- jr67.] ADVENTURES. 209 nion ; and it was a part of the remains df this last victim that had been discovered at the fire. The Indians entertain an opinion, that the man, who has once made human flesh his food, will never siterward be satisfied with any other. It is proba* ble that we saw things in some measure through the .medium of our prejudices ; but, I confess that this distressing object appeared to verify the doc- trine. He ate with rbliih nothing that was giv- en him; buty indifferent to the food prepared, fixed his eyes continually on tlie children which were in the Indian lodge, and frequently ex- claimed, " How fat they are !"— -It was perhaps not unnatural, tliat after long acquaintance with no human forin but such as was gaunt and pale from want of food, a. man's eyes should be almost riveted upon any thing, where misery had not ma^ such inroads, and still more upon the bloom ai>di plumpness of childhood ; and the exclamation might be the most innocent, and might proceed from an involuntary and unconquer- able sentiment of admiration. — Be this as it may, his behaviour was considered, and not less natural- ly, as marked with the most alarming symptoms ; and the Indians, apprehensive that he would prey upon their children, resolved on puttinghimtodeath. They did this the next day, with a single stroke of an axe, aimed at his head from behind, and of the 27 ■ 'lU iiJ \i? 91^ B 31Q TRAVELS, kcIA [iWf. q)proaOh t»f which he had notihe imiillettintimsi- tion. Som after this affair, our supply of foh, pyen here, began to f^ ; and we resolved, in conse^ quence, to return to the Sault, in the hope that some supply might have arrived there. Want, however, still prevailed at that place, and no stran. ger had vi^ted it : we set off, therefore, to Michili. mackinac, taking with us ^y one meal's provi« sion, for each person. Happily, at our first en* campment, an hour's fishing procured us seven trout, each of from ten pounds weight to twenty. At the river Miscoutinsaki, we found two lodges of Indians, who had fish, and who generously gave us part The next day, we condnued our journey, tilli, meeting with a car^ouy I was so fortunate as to kill it. We encamped close to the carcass, which wf^ghed about four himdred pounds, and subsisted ourselves upon it for two days. On the seventh day of our march^ we reached Fort Michiliinacki- nac, where our difficulties ended* Onthelstof July, there arrived a hundred ca« noes fix>m the norths west, laden with beaver. At Point Mamance, tHe beach appeared to «ibouiul in mineral substances ; and I met with a ■' i, CHAPTER IV. !'.J Voyage fiopt the Sault de Sainte-Matie to MichU picoten. Face of the Country . Ores of Copper nnd Lead* Indian Traditions — JVttnibojou — his Burial-place^^Original Country-^thluge"^ Creation ofMan^-^nimals conspire against Man^ kind — deprived of the use of Speech* Sacrifices^ ittthe Grave of Nanibojou-^his present offices. Mioer of MicHpicottht, Opimitfish Ininiwac-^ emntry-^languagie'^resS'^wretchediiess^nceS'- tuous customs-'^trict honesty-'-^utnbers* Face ifthit Country, THE same year, 1 chose thy wint^ring-grotind s(t Michipicoten, on the north side of Lake Supe- rior, distant fifty leagues from the Sault de Sainte- Marie. On my voyagC) after passing the great capes which are at the mouth of the lake, I ob- served the banks to be, low and stony, and in some places running a league back^ to the feet of a ri^ppe of mountains. '■ f s m- * 1 k If t « iK T. ^^ 21i TRAVELS AND [A.D. V il:^ vein of lead-ore, where the metal abounded in the form of cubical crystals. Still coasting along the lake, I found several veins of copper-ore, of that kind which the miners call gray ore. m '/■ii From Mamance to Nanibojou is fifteen leagues. Nanibojou is on the^eastem side of the Bay of Michipicoten. At the opposite point, or cape, are several small islands, under one of which, accord- ' ing to Indian tradition, is buried Nanibojou, a person of tlie most sacred memory.. Nanibojou, ris otherwise called by the names of Minabojou, •Michabou, Messou, Shactac, and a variety of others, but of all of which the interpretation ap- pears to be, The Great Hare, The traditions, related of the Great •Hare, areas varied as his name. ' He was represented to me as the founder, and indeed creator, of the Indian nations of North- America. He lived originally toward the going down of the sun, where being warned, in a dream, that the inhabitants would be drowned by a gene- ral flood, produced by heavy rains, he built a raft, erwise abject people. Withina few dayv after their departure, others arrived ; and by the fifteenth of October, I had seen, or so I was in- formed, all the Indians of this quarter, and which belong to a thousand square miles. They were comprised in no more than ei^teen families ; afid even these, in summer, could not find food in the country, were it not for the fish in the streams and lakes, 1 < *'■• The country, immediately contiguoustb my win- tering.ground, was mountainous in every direc- tion ; and the mountains were 6eparated from each other rather by lakes than valleys, the quantity of wiater every where exceeding that of the land. On the summits of some of the mountains there were sugar-maple trees ; but, with these exceptions, the uplands had no other growth than spruce-firs and pines, nor the lowfands than birch and poj^lar. Occasionally i I saw a few cariboux ; and hares and partridges supplied my Sundays' dinners. — By Christmas-day, the lake was covered with ice. v.^ '.^pi- Sii'*?«fc;. /« fi.lt '■^;4'J CHAPTER V. Maple-sugar making. Depth qf Snow, fTild- Jhwl^Mhort'lived abundance. Indians bring in their Skins, Author passes a second Winter at Michipicoten-'^^ails Jor the Sault de Sainte-Ma^ rie. Storm at the Island ofNanibojou* Famine, Canadians propose to kill and eat a Young JVo<^ man. Tripe de Roche^-nutritive quality of t/utt vegetable. Arrival at the Sault and return to Michipicoten, IN the beginning of April, I prepared to make m^le-sugar, building for this purpose a house, in a hollow dug out of the snow, The house was seven feet high, but yet was lower than the snow. On the twenty-fourth, I began m} manufacture. On the twenty-eighth, the lands below were covered with a thick fog. All was calm, and from the top 9f the mountain not a cloud was to be discovered in the horizon Descending the next day, I found half a foot of new-fallen snow, and learned that it had blown hard in th« valleys the day before ; so 28 \ Mil' #■ 218 TRAVELS AND [A.D. i^ H <• i that I perceived I had been making sugar in a rc» gion above the clouds. Sugar-making continued till the twelfth of May. On the mountain, we eat nothing but our sugar, during the whole period. Each man consumed a pound a day, desired no other food, and was visibly nourished by it. After rctunung to the banksof the river, wild« fowl appeared in such abundance that a day's sub- sistence, for fifty men, could without difficulty be shot daily by one ; but, all this was the affair of less than a week, before the end of which the water, which had been covered, was left naked ; and tlie birds had fled away to the northward. On tlic t\ientieth day of the month, tlie first party of Indians came in from their winter's hunt. During the season, some of them had visited one of the factories of the Hudson's Bay Compan}\ Within a few days following, I had the satisfac- tion of seeing all those to whom I had advanced goods return. Out of two thousand skins, which was the amount of my outstanding debts, not thirty remained unpaid ; and even the trivial loss, which I did sufler, was occasioned by tlie death of one of the Indians, for whom his fa- mily bi-ought, as they said, all the skins of which he died possessed, and offered to pay the rest (rom ir«8.] ADVENTURES. 219 among themselves: — hh manes, they observed, woukl not be able to enjoy peace, while his namQ remained in my books, and his debts were \c(i yn*. satisfied. > In the spring, at Michilimackinac, I met with a Mr. Alexander Baxter, recently arrived ftx)m En- gland, on report of the ores existing in this coun- try. To this gentleman, I communicated my mi- nenUogical observations and specimens, collected both on my voyages and at my wintering. ground ; and I was thus introduced into a partnershi}), which was soon afterward formed, for working tlie mines of Lake Superior. Meanwhile, I prepared to pass a second winter at Michipicoten, which I reached at the usual sea- son. In the month of October, all tlic Indians Ix;. ing supplied, and at the chase, I resolved on indid* ging myself in a voyage to the Sault de Sainte- Marie, and took with me three Canadians, and a yoimg Indian woman, who wished to see her rela- tions there. As the distance was short, and we were to iish by the way, we took no other provision than a quart of maize for each person. On the first night, we encamped on the island of Nanibojou, and set our net. We certainly neg. Iccted the customary oiierings,and an Indian woukl not fail to attribute it to this cause, thul in ihc night I n^ tHAVfitS AM6 [A. U. i' ■ ft. Mm k* there ardse d viol^m dtoitti/ wbieh continued for three days, in which it was impdssible for us to visit our net. In consequence, we subsisted ourselve* on our maize, the whole of which we nearly finish- ed. On the evening of the third day, the storm abated, and we hastened to examine the net. It was gone. To return ^to Michipicoten was im- possible, the wind being ahead ; and we steered therefore for the Sault. But, in the evening, the wind came rounds and blew a gait all that night, and for the nine following days. Di^ring all this time, the waves were so high, and broke so vio- lently on the beach, that a canoe could not be put into the water. When we first disembarked, we had not enough maize to afford a single day's provision for our party, consisting, as it did, of five persons. What there was, we consumed on the first evening, reck^ oning upon a prosperous voyage the next morn- ing. On the first and second days, I went out to hunt ; but, after ranging for many miles among the mountains, I returned, in both instances without success. On the third day, I found myself too weak to walk many yards without stopping to rest myself; and I returned in the evening with no more than two snow-birds.* ■K £fnberiza hyemaUs. ^ #»■ if«i.3 ADVEMTTtrilCS. jQI wOn mjr aftivid, one of mymeii inlbrmed me, that the other two had proposed to kill and feed upon the young woman ; and, on my examining them as to the truth of this ac .usation, they ftcely avowed it, and seemed to be much dissatisfied at my opposition to their scheme^ The next morning, I ascended a lofty mouii<>- tain, on the top of which I found a very high rocky and this covered with a lichen, which the Chipe- wiays call waaci and the Canadians/ tripe dt roche. I had fireviously been informed, that on occasions of famine, this vegetable has often been resorted to for food. No sooner, therefore, had I discovered it, than I began to descend the mountain, to fetch the men and the Indian woman. The woman was well acquainted with the mode of preparitig^ tiie lichen fisr the stomach, which is done by boiling it down into a mucilage, as thick as the white of an egg/ In a ^ort time, we obtained a hearty meal; for though our food was of a bitter and disagreea- ble taste, we felt too much joy in finding it, and too much relief in eating it, not to partake of it with appetite and pleasure. As to the rest, it saved tjie life of the poor woman; for the men, who had projected to kill her, would unquestionably have accomplished their purpose. One of them gave me to understand, that he was not absolutely a novice in such an affair ; that he had wintered in WK m aSST: TRAVELS, &c. [ir«8. the nordiwest/and had been obliged to eat human flesh. On the evening of the ninth day, the wind fell, and our canoe was launched, though not without difficulty, from the weakly state of the crew. We paddled all night, but continually fell asleep ; and whenever my own eyes were closed, I dreamed of temptittg food« till' J if i n .'vThe next morning, we discovered two canoes of Indians, on their way from the Sault. On inform- ing them of our condition, they supplied us with as many fish as we were willing to accept ; and no sooner were we possessed of this treasure, than wc put ashore,! made a fire, and refreshed ourselves with a plentiful breakfast. At night, we reached the Sault. Our change of diet had very serious effects upon our health ; ^o that, for myself, I had nearly fallen a victim : but, after a few days, we recovered, and returned safely to Michipicoten. m -M- K- [1768; luman d fell, without . Wc >; a^id ^med of uioesof inform- us with and no than we [ves with ;hed the IS effects id nearly jcovered, s»i' CHAPTER VL lie de Maurepas, Island of Yellow Sands* Fables and Traditions. Attempt to cultivate a Garden at Mtchipicoten, Mine-Company of Lake Su' perior established* IN the spring of 1769, as soon as the lake was cleared of ice, I embarked with two Jndiar.s, to visit the Island of Michipicoten, or He de Maure- pas, distant ten leagues^ As we approached it, it appeared large and mountainous. The Indians had informed me, that it contained shining rocks, and stones of rare description. I found it one solid rock, thinly covered with soil, except in the val. leys; but generally well wooded. Its circum- ference is twelve leagues. On examining the surface, I saw nothing remarkable, except large veins of transparent spar, and a mass of rock, at the south end of the island, which appeared to be composed of iron-ore. Disappointed in my expectations here, my cu- riosity was raised anew, by the account given tnc by my companions, of another idand, altnost as III 'I 224 TRAVELS AND £A. D. * Ml large as that on which I was, and lying a little fur. ther to the southward. This they described as covered with a heavy yellow sand, which I was credulous enough to fancy must be gold. All they knew, however, of the island and its heavy yellow sand, was from the report of some of their ances- tors, concerning whom a tradition had come down to them, that being blown upon the former by a gtorm, they had escaped with difficulty from the enormous snakes by which it is inliabited, and which are the guardians of the yeUow san^** I was * Captain Carver, who visited Lake Superior about the y^ar 1766, learned something of the fables of the yellow sand, though he places the treasure upon the lie de Mau^ repas, and falls into other errors. His observations are as follow :— »" There are many islands in this lake, two of ng» and in at present of either, jbooner on [canada, by Lve only ac- irts of these xny account get intelli- cager to visit so remarkable a spot, and being told that in clear weather it was visible from the south- <* Nor •^as I able to discover, from any of the conversa- ** tions which I had with the neighbouring Indians, that " they had ever made any settlements on them, or even " landed there, on their hunting excursions. From what ^< I could gather by their discourse, they suppose them to ** have been, from the first formation, the residence of the *< Great Spirit ; and relate many magical tricks, that had ** been experienced by such as were obliged through stress *^ of weather to take shelter on them. ** One of the Chipeways told me, that some of theii' << people were once driven on the Island de Maurcpas, »orld in colours cupbUle of de« ceivtnts fi'eiih adventurcra i and the fttutement in the text will not have been ufteleanly made) if it ahould at any time terve aa • beacon to the unwary. The author of VuyaKes from Mon« treali tec. hai recently obiervedt thiU the '' Americana, toon ** aAer they got |4neasion of the country, aent an engineer i" and that he ^* should not be surprised to hear of their employ* ** ing people to work the mine. Indeed." he addii ** it ** might be well worthy the attention of the British subject! ** to work the mines on the north coast, though they are not <* supposed to be so rich as those on the south /'—and Captain Carver has given the following account of the identical under* taking above described i ** A company of adventurers from ** England began, soon after the conquest of Canadai to bring (* away some of this metal ; but the di»tracttd $ituation ^ " nffmr* in jimerica hua obii^ed them to reiinQvhh their tthftne, ** It might in future times be made a very advantageoui ** trade { as the metal, which co»t» nothing on the spot, and ** requirea but little expense to get it on board, could be con* ^* veyed in boats or canoes through the I'allaof huinte*Marir, ** to the Isle of Sahit-Josrph, which lies at the bottom of the " strait, near the ^^ntrance into Lake Huron ; from thence it *' might be put on board lar^^ei- vessels, and in them traiinport- <* ed across Umt lake, to Uw FmIU ul' Nia|j;aru i then being car- ** ried by land, across the fiortugey it oiigltt be conveyed with* ** out much more obstruction lu Qutbcc. The chettpneaa ** and ease with which any quantity ol it muy In; pioiured, ** will make up fur the length of way thut in neccs^yy^ to *^ transport it}tK*foreit reaches the bca-coust ■, und ^Dle*he 30 ^ 234 TRAVELS AND [A.D. the Indians here, which they planted accordingly. They did the same the following year, and in both instances had good crops. Whether or not they continued the practice, I cannot say. There might be much danger of their losing the seed ; for their way was,' to eat the maize green, and save only a small quantity for sowing. * it In the following month of AugiA, we launched our sloop, and carried the miners to the vein of copper-ore on the north side of the lake. Litde was done during the winter ; but, by dint of labour, performed between the commencement of the spring of 1773, and the ensuing month of Septem- ber, they penetrated thirty feet into the solid rock. The rock was blasted with great difficulty ; and the vein, which, at the beginning, was of the breadth of four feet, had in the progress contract- ed into four inches. Under these circumstances, we desisted, and carried the miners back to the Sault. What copper-ore we had collected, we sent to England ; but, the next season, we were in- formed, that the partners there declined entering into further expenses. — In the interim, we had carried the miners along the north shore, as far as the river Pic, making, however, no discovery of << propriety to send it to foreign iiiarlt«tft on as good terms as « k <6an be exported from other countries."— ^TAree Yeara* TrixvcifiVc, [A.D. iingly. n both ot they i might or their i only a lunched ; vein of Little f labour, t of the Septem- ilid rock, Ity ; and ts of the contract- nstances, ck to the I, we sent were in- \ entering J we had as far as icovery of X)d terms as Vhree Years* 1774.] ADVENTURES. 2a5 importance. This year, therefore, 1774, Mr. Bax- ter disposed of the sloop, and other effects of the Company, and paid its debts* The partners, in England, were His Royal High- ness the Duke of Gloucester, Mr^ Secretary Townshend, Sir Samuel Tutchet, B^net ; Mr. Baxter, consul of the empress of Russia ; and Mr. Cruickshank : in America, Sir William John - son, Baronet ; Mr. Bostwick, Mr* Baxter and myself. . . A charter had been petitioned for, and obtmned,; but, owing to our ill success, it was never taken from the seal-office. / # • 4 /■ CHAPTER VIII. ( .1 Author goes into the North- West, Tete de la LoU' tre, Biver Pijitic. Pays Plat. River Nipigon, Grand Portage, Commercial animosities. Car- rying-place, River aux Groseiiles. Height of Land, Lake Sagunac, Chipeway Fillage. Lake h la Pluie, Second Chipeway Village. River a la Pluie. Lake of the Woods. Third Chipeway Village. Pelicans. Portage du Rat. River Winipegon, or fVinipic. River Pinawa. Carrying-place of the Lost Child. . Lake Winipegon, Christinaux, or Crees"^ their dress-^manners — language. PENDING this enterprise, I had still pursued the Indian trade ; and on its failure I applied my- self to that employment with more assiduity than ever, and resolved on visiting the countries to the n&th-west of Lake Superior. ^ On the 10th day of June, 1775, I left the Sault, with goods and provisions to the value of three thousand pounds sterling, on board twelve small canoes, and four larger ones. The provisions made 1775.] TRAVELS, Sec £37 the chief bulk of the cargo ; no further supply be- ing obtainable, till we should have advanced far into the country. Each small canoe was navigated by three men, and each larger one by four. On the 20th, we passed the Tete de la Loutre, or Otter's Head, so named from a rock, of about thirty feet in height, and fifteen in circumference,and which stands vertically, as if raised by the hand of man. What increases the appearance of art, is a hollow in the adjacent mass of rock, which its removal might be thought to have left. In the evening, we encamped at the mouth of the Pijitic, ariver as large as that of Michipicoten, and which in like manner takes its rise in the high lands lying between Lake Superior and Hudson's Bay. From Michi- picoten to the Pijitic, the coast of the lake is moun- tainous : the mountains are covered with pine, and the valleys with spruce-fir. . It was by the river Pijitic* that the French as- cended in 1750, when they plundered one of the factories in Hudson's Bay, and carried off the two small pieces of brass cannon which fell againanto * According to Carver, it was by the Michipftooten. If he is correct, it must have been from Moose Fort, in James's Bay, and not from Fort Churchill, that they took the cannon. 1 238 TRAVELS AND [A. D'. Bi the hands of the EngUsh at Michilimackinac. ^ On the river are a band of Wood Indians, who are sometimes troublesome to the traders passing. S On the 21st, I left the Pijitic, and crossing a bay, three leagues in breadth, landed on Pic Island. From Pic Island, I coasted ten leagues, and then encamped on an island opposite the Pays Plat, or Flat Country, a name borrowed from the Indians, and occasioned by the shoal- water which here ex- tends far into the lake, and by the flat and low lands which lie between the water and the mountains. The Pays Plat is intersected by several large rivers, and particularly the Nipigon, so called after LakeNipigon, of which ^k is the discharge. By this river, the French carried on a considerable trade with the Northern Indians. They had a fort or trading-house at its mouth, and annually drew j from it a hundred packs of beaver, of a quality I more in esteem than that from the north-west. I They had another trading-house at Caminisdquia. — As we proceed north-west along the lake, the mountains recede widely from the beach. ) On the 24tli, I left the northern shore, and in f four days reached the Grand Portage. The inter- vening islands consist almost entirely in rock. The largest, called Te au Tonnerre, or Thunder IW.] ADVENTURES. 2S9 Island, is said, by the Indians, to be peculiarly sub- ject to thunder-storms. At the Grand Portage, I found the traders in a state of extreme reciprocal hostility, each pursuing his interests in such a man- ner as might most injure his neighbour. The coi^ sequences were very hurtful to the morals of the Indians. The transportation of the goods at this grand portage, or great carrying-place , was a work of seven days of severe and dangerous exertion, at the end of which we encamped on the river Aux Groseilles.* The Grand Portage consistsi in two ridges of land, between which is a deep glen or valley, with good meadow-lands, and a broad stream of water. The lowlands are covered chiefly with birch and poplar, and the high with pine. I was now in what is technically called the north-west ; that is, the country north-west of Lake Superior. The canoes here employed are smaller than those which are used between Montreal and Michili- mackinac, and in Lake Superior ; being only four fathom and a half in length. It is the duty of the head and stem men to carry the canoe. I engaged two of these to winter with me, at the wages of four * The same with what a redent traveller describei as the " river du Tourt," (Tourtre,)— " Dove or Pigeon river." M ,:■■■ fl ":■ ft % i 1 340 TRAVELS AND [A. D. % hundred dollars each, and an equipment of the value, at the Grand Portage, of one hundred more. On the eighth, we ascended the Groseilles, to the carrying-place called the Portage du Perdrix, where the river falls down a precipice of the height of a hundred feet. At the place, where, after passing the Grand Portage, we first launched our canoes on the Groseilles, the stream is thirty jrards vdde. From this spot, it proceeds, with numerous falls, to Lake Superior, which it enters about six leagues to the northward of the Grand Port:^. Next day, at the Portage aux Outardes, we left the Groseilles, and carrying our canoes and mer- chandise for three miles, over a moimtain, came at length to a small lake. This was the beginning of a chain of lakes, extending for fifteen leagues, and separated by carrying-places of from half a mile to three miles in length. At the end of this chain, we reached the heads of small streams which flow to the north-westward. The region of the lakes is called the Hauteur de Terre, or Land^s Height, It is an elevated tract of country, not inclining in any direction, and diversified on its surface with small hills, llie wood is abundant ; but consists pfuicipally in birch, pine, spruce^ and a small quantity of maple. irrs.j ADVENTURES. 241 By the twelfth, we arrived where the streams were large enough to float the canoes, with their lading, though the men walked in the water, pushing them along. Next day, we found them sufficiendy navigable, though interrupted by frequent falls and carrying-places. On the twentieth, we reached ^ Lake Sagunac, or Saginaga, distant sixty leagues from the Grand Portage. This was the hither- most post in the north-west, established by the ^ French ; and there was formerly a large vilkige of iChipeways here, now destroyed by the Na* dowessies. I found only three lodges, filled ^with poor, ^irty and almost naked inhabitants, of jwhom I bought fish and wild rice,^ which latter itbey had in great abundance. When populous, |this village used to be troublesome to the traders, obstructing their voyages, and extorting liquor and other arUcles.^ Lake Sagunac 4s eight leagues in length by four in breadth. The lands, which are every where covered with spruce, are hilly on die south-west ; but, on th^ north-east more level. My men were by this time almost exhausted with fatigue ; but, the chief part of the labour was fortunately past. We now entered Lake a la Pluie, which is fifteen leagues long, by five broad. Its .banks are covered with maple and birch. Our encampment was at * FoUe avoine, avena fatua, zizania aquatica. ' > 31 ;'<■ if ji.; \ > ■ 'm till' 242 TRAVELS AND [A.D. the mouth of the lake, where there is a fall of water of forty feet, called the Chute de la Chaudiere. The carrj^ing-place is two hundred yards in length. On the next evening, we encamped at Les Four, ches, on the River i la Pluie, where there was a village of Chipeways, of fifty lodges, of whom I bought new canoes. They insisted further on having goods given to them on credit, as well as on receiving some presents. The latter they regarded as an established tribute, paid them on account of the ability which they possessed, to put a stop to all trade with the interior. I gave them rum, with which they became drunk and troublesome ; and in the night I left them. The |liver a la Pluie is forty leagues long, of a gentle current, and broken only by one rapid. Its bdnks are level to a great distance, and composed of a fine soil, which was covered with luxuriant grass. They were perfect solitudes, not even a canoe presenting itself, along my whole navigation of the stream. I was greatiy struck with the beauty of the scene, as well as with its fitness for agricul- tural settlements, in which provisions might be raised for the north-west. ( On the thirtieth, we reached the Lake of the Woods, or Lake des lies, at the entrance of which was an Indian village, of a hundred souls, where we ^ 17750 ADVENTUHE9. 243 obtained a further supply of fish. Fish appeared to be the summer food. From this village, we received ceremonious pre- sents. I'he mode with the Indians is, first to col- lect all the provisions they can spare, and place them in a heap ; after which they send for the tra- der, and address him in a formal speech. They tell him, that the Indians are happy in seeing him return into their country ; that they have been long in expectation of his arrival ; that their wives have deprived themselves of their provisions, in order to afford him a supply ; that they are in great want, being destitute of every thing, and particularly of ammunition and clothing ; and that what they most long for, is a taste of his rum, which they uni- formly denominate milk. The present, in return, consisted in one keg of gunpowder, of sixty pounds weight ; a bag of shot, and another of powder, of eighty pounds each ; a few smaller articles, and a keg of rum. The last appeared to be the chief treasure, though on the former depended the greater part of their winter's subsistence, ' Vol In a short time, the men began to drink, while the women brought me a furdier and very valuable present, of twenty bags of rice. This I returned ^yith goods and rum, and at the same time offered 244 TRAVELS AN© [A.D. more, for an additional quantity of rice. A trade ivas opened, the women bartering rice, while the men were drinking. Before morning, I had purchased a hundred bags, of nearly a bushel mea- sure each. Without a large quantity of rice, the voyage could not have been prosecuted to its com- pletion. The canoes, as I have already observed, are not large enough to carry provisions, leaving merchandise wholly out of the question*— The rice grows in shoal water, and the Indians gather it by sliaking the ears into their canoes. When morning arrived, all the village was inebriated ; and the danger of misunderstanding was increased by the facility with which the women al>andoned themselves to my Canadians. In consequence, I lost no time in leaving the place. On the first day of August, we encamped on a sandy island in the Lake of the Woods, where we were visited by several canoes, of w^hom we pur- chased wild rice. On the fourth, we reached the Portage du Rat. J The Lake of the Woods is thirty-six leagues f long. On the west side is an old French fort or i trading-house, formerly frequented by numerous bands of Chipeways, but these have since been almost entirely destroyed by the Nadowessies. irrs.] ADVENTURES. U5 When strong;, they were troublesome. On ac count of a particular instance oT pillage, they have been called Pilleurs. The pelican is numerous on this lake. One, which we shot, agreed entirely with the description of M. de EaflPon. On the fifth, we passed the Portage du Rat, which is formed by a rock of about twenty yards long. Here, we met several canoes of Indians, who all begged for rum ; but, they were known to belong to the band of Fiileursy also called the roguesy and were on that account refused. From the Portage du Rat, we descended the great river Winipegon, which is there from one mile to two in breadth, and at ever}*^ league grows broader. The channel is deep, but obstructed by many islands, of which some are large. For several miles, the stream is confined between perpendicu- lar rocks. The current is strong, and the naviga- tion singularly difficult. Within the space of fifteen leagues, there are seven falls, of from fifty feet to a hundred in height. At sixty leagues irom our entrance of the Winipegon, we crossed a carrying- place into the Pinawac ; below which, the dangers of the Winipegon are still further increased. The adjacent lands are mountainous and rocky ; but, some of the high hills are well covered with birch and maple. }M 246 TRAVELS AND [A. Dr. The stream of the Pinawa is shallow, and its bed rocky and broken. The carrying-places are eight in number. The mosquitoes were here in such clouds as to prevent us from taking aim at the ducks, of which we might else have shot many. On the thirteenth, we encamped at the Carrying- place of ihe Lost Child. Here is a chasm in the rock, no where more than two yards in breadth, but of great and immeasurable depth. The In- dians relate, that many ages past, a child fell into this chasm, from the bottom of which it is still heard,' at times, to cry. In all the wet lands, wild rice grows plentifully. Pi The Pinawa is twenty leagues long, and dischar- ges itself into Lake du Bonnet,* at three leagues to the north of the mouth of the Winipegon, which falls into the same lake, or rather forms it ; for Lake du Bonnet is only a broadened part of the channel of the Winipegon. The lake is two leagues broad; and the river, in its course below, continues broader than it is above, with many islands and deep falls : the danger of the navigation, however, is lessened. On the sixteenth, we reached Lake Winipegon, at the entrance of which is a large village of Chris- tinaux, a nation which I had not previously seen. * Cap Lake, in some maps' written Cat Lake. itrsj ADVENTURES. 24,7 The name is variously written ; as, Cristinaux, Kinistineaux, Killistinoes and Killistinaux. Lake Winipegon is sometimes called the Luke of the Killistinons, or Cristinaux. The dress and other exterior appearances of the Cristinaux are very distinguishable from those of the Chipeways and the Wood Indians. The men were almost entirely naked, and their bodies painted with a red ochre, procured in the mountains, and often* called vermilion. Every man and boy had his bow strung and in his hand, and his arrow ready, to attack in case of need. Their heads were shaved, or the hair plucked out, all over, except a spot on the crown, of the diameter of a dollar. On this spot, the hair grew long, and was rolled and gathered into a tuft ; and the tuft, which is an object of the greatest care was covered with a piece of skin. The ears were pierced, and fill- ed with the bones of fish and of land animals. — Such was the costume of the young men ; but, among the old, some let their hair grow on all parts of their head, without any seeming regard. The women wear their hair of a great length, both behind and before, dividing it on the forehead and at the back of the head, and collecting the hair of each side into a roll, which is fastened above the car ; and this roll, like the tuft on the heads of the men, is covered with a piece of skin. The skin is ■i^Wl i;?-' 1 .ill! I , ■^t^. m^ # 248 \ TRAVELS AND CAP. painted, or else ornamented with beads of various colours. The rolls, with their coverings, resemble a pair of large horns. The ears of the women are pierced and decorated, like those of the men. Their clothing is of leather, or dressed skins of the wild ox and the elk. The dress, falling from the shoulders to below the knee, is of one entire piece. Girls of an early age wear their dresses shorter than those more advanced. The same garment covers the shouldei^. and the bosom ; and is fastened by a strap which passes over the shoulders : it is con- fined about the waist by a girdle. The stockings are of leather, made in the fashion of leggings. The arms, to the shoulders, are left liaked, or are provided with sleeves, which are sometimes put on, and sometimes suffered to hang vacant from the shoulders. The wrists are adorned with bracelets of copper or brass, manufactured from old kettles. In general, one person is worth but one dress ; and this is worn as long as it will last, or till a new one is made, and then thrown away. The women, like the men, paint their faces with red ochre ; and in addition usually tatoo two lines, reaching from the lip to the chin, or from the comers of the mouth to the ears. They omit no- thing to make themselves lovely. i.rrs.] ADVENTURES. 249 Meanwhile, a favourite employment is that of wagii^ war with certain animals which are in abun- dance on their persons, and which, as they catch, they eat. To frequent inquiries, as to the motive for eating them, I was always answered, that they afforded a medicinal food, and great preventive of diseases. Such are the exterior beauties of the female Cristinaux ; and, not content with the power be- longing to these attractions, they condescend to be- guile, with gentle looks, the hearts of passing stran- gers. The men, too, unlike the Chipeways, (who areof a jealous temper,) eagerly encourage them in this design. One of the chiefs assured me, that the children, borne by^ their women to Europeans, were bolder warribrs, and better hunters, ^than themselves. % The Cristinaux have usually two wives each, and' often three ; and make no difficulty in lending one of them, for a length of time, to a friend. Some of my men entered into agreements with the respective husbands, in virtue of which they em- barked the women in the canoes, promising to return them the next year. The women, so selected, consider themselves as honoured ; and the husband, who should refuse to lend his wife, would fall under the condemnation of the sex in general. 32 'l!!!, i 1 ' " !« 11 ii; 250 TRAVELS, y . [irrs. The language of the Cristinaux is a dialeot of the Algonquin, and therefore bears some affinity to that of the Chipeway, which is another dialect of the same. In the north-west, it is commonly call- ed Qree^ or Cris. • « CHAPTER IX* t^oyage in the North- West continued* Snow-stortm jRiuerde Bourbon^ Pasquaydh^ 6r Sascatchiwaine* Grand Rapide, Lake Winipegon — dimensions^ ts'Ci Lake de Bourbon^ or Cedar Lake. Fort de Bourbon, River Pasquayah, Pasquayah Village — Traders forced to comply with the de* mands of the Indians, Cumberland House. Stur- geon Lake, River MaHgne, Beaver Lake. Build a Fort'^and winter in it* THE Cristinaujt made me the usual presents of wild rice and dried meat, and accompanied them with the usual formalities. I remained at their viU lage two days, repairing my canoes ; and though they were drunk the whole tiipe, they behaved very peaceably^ and gave me no annoyance. I obser- ved that two men constantly attended us, and that these individuals could not be prevailed upon to taste liquor. They had been assigned us for a guard ; and they would not allow any drunken In- dian to approach our camp* On the eighteenth of August, I left these amica- ble people, among \^'hom an intercourse with Euro- 5*%^ \ Mr' 1 i- »' M ill if i € •\4 ii!'''H Hi 'I \ \" " lii,li,'':t: It: mm 252. TRAVELS AND V [A.D. peahs appeared to have occasioned less deviation from their primitive manners, than in any instance which I had previously discovered. I kept the north side of the lake, and had not proceeded far before I was joined by Mr. Pond, a trader of some celebrity in the north-west. Next day, we encountered a se- vere gale, from the dangers of which we escaped, by making the island called the Buffalo's Head ; but, not without the loss of a canoe and four men. The shores, from the entrance of this lake to the island, with exception of the points, are rocky and lofty : the points are rocky, but low. The wood is pine and fir. We took pouts, cat-fish, or cat- heads, of six pounds weight. ('it .rf r m On the twenty-first, we crossed to the south shore, and reached Oak-point, so called from a few scrub oaks, which here begin to diversify the forest of pine and fir. The pelicans, which we every where saw, ^peai^d to be impatient of the long stay we made in fishing. Leaving the island, we found the latids along the shore low, and wood- ed with birch and marsh-maple, intermixed with spruce-fir. The beach is gravelly, and the points rocky. To the westward of Pike-river, which we passed on the first of September, is a rock, of great length, called the Roche Rouge, and entirely composed oSaJfibrre ^ calumet, or stone used l^y the Indiani^ iry^.y ADVENTURED •Ji 353 for making tobacco-pipe bowls. It is of a light red colour, interspersed with veins of brown, and yields veiy readily to the knife. On the seventh of September, we were overtaken by Messrs. Joseph and Thomas Frobisher, and Mr. Patterson. On the twentieth, we crossed the bay together, composing a fleet of thirty canoes, and a hundred and thirty men. We were short of provisions. On the twenty-first, it blew hard, and snow be- gan to fall. The storm continued till the twenty- fifth, by which time the small lakes were frozen over, and two feet of snow lay on level ground, in the woods. This early severity ofthe season filled us with serious alarms ; for the country was unin- habited for two hundred miles on every side of us, and if detained by winter, our destruction was cer* tain. In this state of peril, we continued our voyage day and night. The fears of our men were a suf- ficient motive for their exertions. On the first of October, we gained the mouth of the River de Bourbon, Pasquayah, or Sascatchi- waine,^ and proceeded to ascend its stream. The •* * The lower part of the Sascatchiwraine was once called the River de Bourbon. Patguayah is the name of an upper {kortion of the Sascatchiwaine . iMI- , I'lii . I :::! ; I!' ' ^., ^ 254 • » TRAVELS AND [A*». sib' l-l .14 Bourbon is a large river, and has its sources to the westward The lands,.which we passed after the twenty-first of September, are more hilly and rocky than those described before. The trees are poplar and spruce. The rocks are chiefly of lime-stone. Our course, from the entrance of Lake Winipegon, was north-west northerly. The lake contains stur- geon ; but, we were not able to take any. At four leagues above the mouth of the river, is the Grand Rapide, two leagues in length, up which the ca- noes arc dragged with ropes. At the end of this is a carr}'ing-place of two miles, through a forest al- most uniformly of pine-trees. Here, we met with Indians, fishing for sturgeon. Their practice is, to watch behind the points where tl^e current forms an eddy, in which ^e sturgeon, coming to rest them- selves, are easily speared. The soil is light and sandy. A vesseUof any burden might safely navi- gate Lake Winipegon, from its south-west comer to the Grand Rapide. Lake Winipegon, or Winipic, or the Lake of the Killistinons, or Cristinaux, empties itself into Hudson's Bay, at Fort York, by a river, sometimes called Port-Nelson River. Its length is said to be one hundred and twenty leagues. Its breadth is unknown. I saw no land, in any direction, after leaving Oak Point* irrs.] ADVENTURES. 255 On the second, we continued our vo3rage against the purrent of the Bourbon, which was strong, and interrupted by several rapids. On the third, we entered Lake de Bourbon, called by the Elnglish, after the Indians, Cedar Lake. This name is deri- ved from the cedar-tree, (thuya,) which covers its banks, and which is not found to the northward of this regij[)n. -« On the fourth, we reached the opposite extremity of Lake de Bourbon. This lake is eighteen leagues in length, and has many deep bays, receding to the northward. The land, by which they are bojrdered, is in almost all instances out of sight. . Several islands, some of which are large, are also in this lake. The shores are generally rocky. At the north end, there was, in the French time, a fort, or tra- ding-house, called Fort de Bourbon, and built by M. de Saint- Pierre, a French officer,- who«was the first adventurer into these parts of the country.* At and adjacent to this fort, are several of the mouths of the river Sascatchiwaine. Here we took several stui^on, using a seine, the meshes of which were large enough to admit the fish's head, and which we made fast to two canoes. * In 1766, Carver calls Lake de Bourbon << the most north* *^ ward of those yet discovered." 'U- i. IIP' tj!* \'i\M 256 VRAVELS AND CA.D. On the nzlhy we ascended the Saseatclu tvaine, the cuirentof which was here only moderately strong; but, dicbanks were marshy and overflowed, so that it was with difficulty we found a dry space, large eno^h to encamp upon. Beaver-lodges were numerous ; and the river was every where covered with geese, ducks and other wild fowl. No rising ground was to l^ seen ; and the wood, which was chiefly willow, no where exceeded a man's wrist in thickness. On the eighth, we resumed our vojrage before day-light, making aU speed to reach a fishing-place, since winter was* very fast approaching. Meeting two canoes of Indians, we engaged them to accom- pany us, as hunters. The number of duck« and geese which they killed was absolutely prodi- gious. ' -* - * ,: f,*- ■ - ,^ S: ' - ,' . At eighty leagues above Fort de Bourbon, at the head of a stream which fells into the Sascat- chiwaine, and into which we had turned, we found the Pasquayah village. It consisted of thirty &mi- Jies, lodged in tents of a circular form, and compo- sed of dressed ox-skins, stretched upon poles twelve feet in length, and leaning against a stake driven into the ground in the centre. On our arrival, the chief, named Chatique, or The Pelican, came down upon the beach, attended '^ irrs.] ADVENTURES. 257 by thirty followers, all armtd with the bows and ar- rows, and with spears. Chatique was a man of more than ^Ax feet in height, somewhat corpulent, and of a very doubtful physiognomy. He invited us to his tent ; and we observed that he was (xuti- eularly anxious to bestow his hospitalities on those who were the owners of the goods. We suspected an evil design ; but, judged it better to lend our- selves to the treachery, than to discover fear. We entered the lodge accordingly, and soon perceived that we were surrounded by armed men. Chatique presenUy rose up, and told us, that he was glad to see us arrive ; that the young men of the village, as well as himself, had long been in want of tnany things of which we were possessed in abun^ dance ; that we must be well aware of his power to prevent our going further ; that if we passed now, he could put us all to death on our return ; and that under these circumstances, he expected us to be exceedingly liberal in our presents : adding, that to avoid misunderstanding, he would inform us of what it was that he must have. It consisted ft in three casks of gunpowder ; four bags of shotand ball ; two bales of tobacco ; three kegs of rum, and three guns ; toother with knives, flints and some smaller articles. He went on to say, that he had before now been acquainted with white men, ^nd 33 . jl!;'i"i' ''ipl 258 TRAVELS AND [A.D. knew tliat they promised more than they perform- ed ; that with the number of men which he had, he could take the whole of our property, without our consent ; and that therefore his demands ought to be regarded as very reasonable •: that he was a peaceable man, and one that contented himself with moderate views, in order to avoid quarrels ; — finally^ that he desired us to signify our assent to his proposition, before we quitted our places. The men in the canoes exceeded the Indians in number ; but, they were unarmed, and without a leader : our consultation was therefore short, and we promised to comply. This done, the pipe was handed round as usual ; and the omission of this ceremony, on our entrance, had sufficiently marked the intentions of Chatique. The pipe dismissed, we obtained permission to depart, for the purpose of assorting the presents ; and, these bestowed, or ti^tr yielded up, we hastened away from the plunderers, j We had supposed the afiair finished ; but, be- fore we had proceeded two miles, we saw a canoe behind us. On this, we dropped astern, to give the canoes that were following us an opportunity of joining, lest, being alone, they should be insult- ed. Presently, however, Chatique, in a solitary canoe, rushed into the midst of our squadron, and 1775.] ADVENTURES. 259 boarded one of our canoes, spear in hand, demand- ing a keg of rum, and threatening to put to death the first that opposed him. We saw that our only alternative was, to kill this daring robber, or to sub- mit to his exaction. The former part would have been attended with very mischievous consequen- ces ; and we therefore curbed our indignation, and chose the latter. On receiving the rum, he saluted us with the Indian cry, and departed. Every day, we were on the water before dawn, and paddled along till dark. The nights were frosty ; and no provisions, excepting a few wild fowl, were to be procured. We were in daily fear that our progress would be arrested by the ice. . * On the twenty-sixth, we reached Cumberland X House, one of the factories of the Hudson's Bay Company, seated on Sturgeon Lake, in about 54^ north latitude, and 102^ longitude west from Green- wich. This house had been built the year before, by Mr. Heame, who was now absent, on his well- known journey of discovery. We found it garri-> soned by Highlanders, from the Orkney Islands, and under the command of a Mr. Cockings, by whom, though unwelcome guests, we were treated with much civility. The design, in building this house, was to prevent the Indians from dealing with the Canadian merchants, and to induce them to go to I'lit i n tin Jl km i' 1' ) 1 V' H rll ' ''IhiV m ' '4m 1 1 '■:*■ ;,i'|| I'i 1 i ^1 1 • -i f m ■rt\ iP i ■ "^ K iPB '! !''4iH ;'uj^n. :"i Jji-ffl '-f!il J 'IjJH '* 't'rtiW T WM 1 1 #• II jM S66 TRAVELS AND [A.D. Hudson's Bay* It is distant one hundred leagues from Chatique's village ; and of this space the first fifty leagues comprise lands nearly level with the water ; but, in the latter, the surface is more lofty, rising a hundred feet above the river, and increa- sing in height as we advance. The soil is a white clay, mixed with sand. The wood is small and scanty. IV At Cumberland House, the canoes separated ; M. Cadotte going with four to Fort des Prairies ; Mr. Pond, with two, to Fort Dauphin ; and others proceeding on still different routes. Messrs. Fro- bisher retained six, and myself four ; and we re- solved on joining our stock, and \^intering toge- ther. We steered for the river Churchill, or Mis- sinipi, to the east of Beaver Lake, or Lake aux Castors. kU Sturgeon Lake, which we now crossed, is twen- ty leagues in length. On the east are high lands, and on the west, low islands. The river Maligne falls into it. This we ascended, but not without murh labour, from the numerous rapidsy on ac- count of which, the Canadians, in their vexr^tion, have ^ven it the name it bears. We cr'ossed Beaver Lake on the first day of No- vember ; and the very next morning it was frozen irT5.] . Happily, ADVENTURES. 261 over. Happily, we were now at a place abounding with fish ; and here, therefore, we resolved on win- tering. Our first object was to procure food. We had only three days' stock remaining, and we were forty.three persons in number. Our forty men were divided into three parties, of which two were detached to the River aux Castors, on which the ice was strong enough to allow of setting the nets, in the manner heretofore described. The third party was employed in building our house, or fort; and, in this, within ten days, we saw ourselves commodiously lodged. Indeed, we had almost built a village ; or, in soberer terms, we had raised buildings round a quadrangle, such as really assumed, in the wilds which encompassed it, a formidable appearance. In front, was the house designed for Messrs. Frobisher and myself ; and the men had four houses, of which one was placed on each side, and two in the rear* m :y, J Our canoes were disposed of on scaffolds ; for, the ground being frozen, we could not bury them, as is the usual practice, and which is done to pro* tect them from that severity of cold which occa- ^4ons the bark to contract and split. 1:' 262 TRAVELS AND [A.D. The houses being finished, we divided the men dnew, making four parties, of nine each. Four were retained as wood-cutters ; and each party was to provide for its own subsistence. Our fishing was very successful. We took trout of the weight of from ten to fifty pounds ; white- fish of five pounds ; and pike of the usual size. There were also pickerel, called poissons dorSs^ (gilt-fish,) and sturgeon; but, of the last, we caught only one. The Indians, soon after our arrival, killed two elks, otherwise called moose-deer** . Lake aux Castors, or Beaver Lake, is seven leagues in length, and from three to five in breadth. It has several islands, of which the largest does not exceed a mile in circumference. The lands on either shore are mountainous and rocky. Messrs. Frobisher and myself were continually employed in fishing. We made holes in the ice, and took trout with the line, in twenty and thirty fathom water, using white-fish, of a pound weight, for our bait, which we sunk to the bottom, or very near it. * Cervys alc^s. 1775.] V ADVENTURES. 263 Li this manner, I have at times caught more than twenty large trout a-day ; but, my more usual mode was that of spearing. By one means or other, fish was plenty with us ; but, we suffered severely from tlie cold, in fishing. On the twenty- fifth, the frost was so excessive, that we had nearly perished. Fahrenheit's thermometer was at 32^ below zero in the shade ; the mercury contract- ed one eighth, and fur four days did not rise into the tutie. Several Indians brought beaver and bear's meat, and some skins, for sale. Their practice was, to remain with us one night, and leave us in the ijioming. 1"; CHAPTER X. fainter journey fiom Beaver Lake to the Plaim^ or Prairies. Author accompanied to Cumber^ iand House by Mr. Joseph Frobisher — reaches the Pasquayah, or Sascatchiwaine, Snow storm* Provisions exhausted — and consequent sufferings. Port des Prairies. Plains^^reports qf their boundaries — inhabitants. OsinipoilleSy or Assini- boins. Author joins a party of Osinipoilles^ and accompanies them to their Village, THE Plains, or, as the French denominate them, the Prairies, or Meadows, compose an extensive tract of country, which is watered by the Elk, or Athabasca, the Sascatchiwaine, the Red River and others, and runs southward to the Gulf of Mexico. On my first setting out for the north-west, I promi- sed myself to visit this region, and I now prepared to accomplish the undertaking. Long joumies, on the snow, are thought of but as trifles, in this part of the world. ">. On the first day of Januar}% 1776, I left our fort or\ Beaver Lake, attended by two men, and provi- irra.] TRAVELS, 8cQ. 265 ^ed with dried meat, frozen fish, and a small quantity cf praline, made of roasted maize, ren- dered palatable with sugar, and which I had brought from the Sault de Sainte-Marie, for this express occasion. The kind and friendly disposi- tion of Mr. Joseph Frobisher, induced him to bear me company, as far as Cumberland House, a jour- ney of a hundred and twenty miles. Mr. Frobisher was attended by one man. Our provisions were drawn by the men, upon sledges, made of thin boards, a foot in breadth, and curved upward in front, after the Indian fashion. Our clothing for night and day was nearly the same ; and the cold was so intense, that exclusively of warm woollen clothes, we were obliged to wrap ourselves continuallv in beaver blankets, or at least in ox-skins, which the traders call buffalo-robes. At night, we made our first encampment at the head of the Maligne, where one of our panics was fishing, ivith but very indifferent success. On the following evening, we encamped at the mouth of the same river. The snow was four feet deep; and we found it impossibi to keep our- selves warm, even with the aid of a large fire. On the fourth day, as well of the month as of our journey, we arrived at Cumberland House. Mr, Cockings received us with much hospitality, 34 ill ill. y m I*' i !>■ iff '•■1 'Ml "ill f' ilMi 4 -i !'■' !j ! ! "18 I"'-.. I Hi m . ■11 2C6 TRAVELS AND [A. D. IvH'. it Ih* making us partake of all he had, which, however, was but little. Himself and his men subsisted wholly upon fish, in which sturgeon bore the largest proportion ; and this was caught near the house. The next morning, I took leave of Mr. Frobisher, who is certainly the first man that ever went the same distance, in such a «'limate, and upon snow- shoes, to convoy a friend ! • From Cumberland House, I pursued a westerly course, on the ice, following the southern bank of Sturgeon Lake, till I crossed the neck of land by which alone it is separated from the great river Pasquayah, or Sascatchiwaine. In the evening, I encamped on the north bank of this river, at the distance often leagues from Cumberland House. The depth of the snow, and the intenseness of the cold, rendered my progress so much slower than I had reckoned upon, that I soon began to fear the want of provisions. The sun did not rise till half past nine o'clock in the morning, and it set at half past two in the afternoon : it is, however, at no time wholly dark in these climates ; the north- em lights, and the reflection of the snow, affording always sufficient light for the traveller. Add to this, that thCTiver, the course of which I was ascending, was a guide, with th^ aid of which I could not lose my way. Every day's journey was commenced at three o'clock in the morning. im] ADVENTURES. 267 ^(4 I *vas not far advanced, before the country be- trayed some approaches to the characteristic na- kedness of the Plains. The wood dwindled away, both in size and quantity, so that it was with difficulty we could collect sufficient for ma- king a fire, and without fire we could not drink; for melted snow was our only resource, the ice on the river being too thick to be penetrated by the axe. On the evening of the sixth, the weather conti- nuing severely cold, I made my two men sleep on the same skin with myself, one on each side ; and though this arrangement was particularly beneficial to myself, it increased the comfort of all. At the usual hour in the morning, we attempted to rise ; but found that a foot of snow had fallen upon our bed, as well as extinguished and covered our fire. In this situation we remained till day-break, when, with much exertion, we collected fresh fuel. Proceeding on our journey, we found that the use of our sledge ^< had become impracticable, through the quantity of newly fallen snow, and were now constrained to carry our provisions on our backs. Unfortunately, they were a diminished burden ! ■•*M For the two days succeeding, the depth of the snow, and the violence of the winds, greatly retard- cd our journey ; but, from the ninth to the twelfth, the. elements were less hostile, and we travelled b^m 268 TRAVELS AND [A.D. m rapidly. No trace of any thing human presented itself on our road, except tl)at we saw the old wintering.ground of Mr. Finlay, who had left it some years before, and was now stationed at Fort des Prairies. This fort was the stage we had to make, before we could enter the Prairies, or Plains ; arid on examining our provisions, we found only sufficient for iive days, while, even at the swiftest rate we had travelled, a journey of twelve days was before us. My men began to fear being starved, as seeing no prospect of relief ; but^ I endeavoured to maintain their courage, by repre. senting that I should certainly kill red-deer and elk, of which the tracks were visible along the banks of the river, and on the sides of the hills. What I hoped for, in this respect, it was not easy to accomplish ; for the animals kept within the shelter of the woods, and the snow was too deep to kt me seek them there. On the fifteenth, our situation was rendered still more alarming, by the commencement of a fresh &1I of snow, which added nearly two feet to the depth of that which was on the ground before. At the same time, we were scarcely able to collect enough wood for making a fire to melt the snow. The only trees around us were starveling wil- lows ; and the hills, which discovered them- selves at a small distance, were bare of every ve- getable production, such as could rear itself abov^ i7r«.] ADVENTURES. 5269 the snow. Their appearance was rather that of lofty snow-banks, than of hills. We were now on the borders of the Plains. On the twentieth, the last remains of our provi- sions were expended ; but, I had taken the pre* caution to conceal a cake of chocolate, in resen^e for an occasion like that which was now arri- ved. I'oward evening, my men, after walking the wiiole day, began to lose their strength ; but, we nevertheless kept on our feet till it was late ; and, when we encamped, I informed them of the trea- sure which was still in store. 1 desired them to fill the kettle with snow, and argued with them the while, that the chocolate would keep us alive, for five days at least ; an interval in which we should surely meet with some Indian at the chase. Their spirits revived at the sug;gestion ; and, the ketde being filled with two gallons of water, I put into it one square of the chocolate. The quantity jvas scarcely sufficient to alter the colour of the water ; but, each of us drank half a gallon of the warm li- quor, by which we were much refreshed, and in its enjoyment felt no more of the fatigues of the day. In the momhig, we allowed ourselves a similar repast, after finishing which, we marched vigorously for six hours. But, now, the spirits of my companions again deserted them, and they declared, that they neither wouKl, nor could, proceed any further. For myself, they advised mc to leave them, and ac- I, (I lis ,1' , ill ':■ :Hi!;l 270 TRAVELS AND [A. D. complish the journey as I could ; but, for them* selves, they said, that they must die soon, and might as well die where they were, as any where else. While things were in this melancholy posture, I filled the kettle, and boiled another square of chocolate. When prepared, I prevailed upon my desponding companions to return to their warm beverage. On taking it, they recovered incon- ceivably ; and, after smoking a pipe, consented to go fonvard. While their stomachs were comfort- ed by the warm water, they walked well ; but, as evening approached, fatigue overcame them, and they relapsed into their former condition ; and, the chocolate being now almost entirely consumed, I began to fear that I must really abandon them : for I was able to endure more hardship than they ; and, had it not been for keeping company with them, I could have advanced, double the distance, within the time which had beep spent. To my great joy, however, the usual quantity of warm wa- ter revived them. For breakfast, the next morning, I put the last square of chocolate into the k^nle ; and our meal finished, we begim our march, in but very indi£^- ent spirits. We were surrounded by large herds of wolves, which sometimes came close upon us, and who knew, as we were prone to think, the ex- tremity in which we were, and marked us for their 1776.] ADVENTURES. 271 prey ; but, I carried a gun, and this was our protec- tion. I fired several times, but unfortunately missed at each ; for a morsel of wolf's flesh would have afforded us a banquet. Our misery, nevertheless, was still nearer its end than we imagined ; and the event was such as to give one of the innumerable proofs, that despair is not made for man. Before sunset, we discovered, on the ice, some remains of the bones of an elk, left there by the wolves. Having in- stantly gathered them, we encamped; and, filling our kettle, prepared ourselves a meal of strong and excellent soup. The greater part of the night was passed in boiling and regaling on our booty ; and early in the morning we felt ourselves strong enough to proceed. This day, the twenty-fifth, we found the borders of the Plains reaching to the very banks of the river, which were two hundred feet above the level of the ice. Water-marks presented themselves at twenty feet above the actual level. Want had lost his dominion over us. At noon^ we saw the horns of a red-deer, standing in the snow, on the river. On examination, we found that the whole carcass was with them, the animal ha- ving broke through«the ice in the beginning of the winter, in attempting to cross the river, too early in \ ii ; ?i i ' ■ >'i i II I ! III i niii il ^, ^^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I ■^ Bii |Z2 :^ 1^ 12.0 IL25 HI 1.4 m i^ Photographic Sciences Coiporalion 23 WEST MAIN STMET WEBSTER, N.Y. 145M (716)872-4S03 ^^ ^\ "^rsN "1,"^^-%- ^ :^ 4"^^ '-^V V /' 272 TRAVELS AND [A,D. the season ; while his horns, fastening themselves in the ice, had prevented him from sinking. By cutting away the ice, we were enabled to lay bare a part of the back and shoulders, and thus procure 2^ stock of food, amply sufficient for the rest of our journey. We accordingly encamped, and em- ployed our kettle to good purpose ; forgot all our misfortunes ; and prepared to walk with cheerful* ness the twenty leagues, which, as we reckoned, still lay between ourselves and Fort des Prairies. Though the deer must have been in this situa- tion ever since the month of November, yet its flesh was perfectly good. Its horns alone were five foot high, or more ; and it will therefore not appear extraordinary, that they should be seen above the snow^ On the twenty-seventh, in the morning, we dis- covered the print of snow-shoes, demonstrating that several persons had passed that way the day before. These were the first marks of other hifman feet than our own, which we had seen since our leaving Cumberland House ; and it was much to feel, that we had fellow-creatures in the wide waste surrounding us ! In the evening, we reached the fort. \J^ At Fort des Prairies, I remained several days, hospitably entertain^ by my friends, who covered 1776-3 ADVENTURES. 273 their table with the tongues and marrow of wild bulls. The quantity of provisions, which I found collected here, exceeded every thing of which I had previously formed a notion. In one heap, I saw fifty ton of beef, so fat that the men could scarcely find a sufficiency of lean. I had come to see the Plains ; and I had yet a serious journey to perform, in order to gratify my curiosity. Their southern boundary I iiave already named ; and I understood that they stretched north- ward, to the sixtieth degree uf north latitude, and westward, to the feet of the Rocky Moi\ntains, or Northern Andes, of which the great chain pursues a north-westerly direction. The mountain^^, seen in high latitudes, were regarded as parts of this chain, and said to be iiihii^bited by numerous bands of In- dians. The Plains cross the river . Pasquayah, Kejeeche-won, Sascatchiwaine or Shascatchiwan, a little above I ort des Prairies. The Indians, who inhabit them immediately to the southward, are called Osinipoilles, or Assini- boins. At the fort, I met with a woman who was a slave among the Osinipoilles, taken far to the westward of the mountains, in a country which the latter incessantly ravage. She informed me, that the men of the country never suffer themselves to be taken, but always die in the field, ra- ther than fall into captivity. The women and 35 i-i" i.n 274 TRAVELS, &c. [1776. Mm children are made slaves, but are not put to death, nor tormented.* Her nation lived on a great river, running to the south-west, and cultivated beans, squashes, maize and tobacco. The lands were generally mountainous, and covered with pine and fir. She had heard of men who wear their beards. She had been taken in one of the incursions of the Osinipoilles, Of the men who were in the village, , the greater part were killed ; but, a few escaped, by swimming across the river. * . •^ The woman belonged to a numerous band of Osinipoilles, which was at the fort, selling its meat and skins. I resolved on travelling with these people, to their village ; and accordingly set out on the fifth of February, accompanied by Messrs. Patterson and Holmes, and attended by my two Canadians. . . * The Five Nations, and others, are known to have treated their prisoners with great cruelty ; but, there is too niuch reason to believe, that the exercise of this cruelty has been often encouraged, and its malignity often iixreased) by £u-^ ropean instigators and assistants* ^U ft- 5;.- *:':a«Jii rfortr^""^:x'>: '4'''>^ 'i^ ".*.> m ■:\j-1 .'\ -.. .>, ,. J ;s.,A(%J '■:.* i.c i-. ■■'■'• '• ^h^- eHAPTER XL Journey on the Plains, from Fort des Prairies to a Fillage of the Osinipoilles. Table-land, Moose- river. JRed-deer. Winter appearance of the Plains, Danger from drifted Snow, Coppices, or Islands, Wild Oxen,^ Messengers from Great Chief, Snorw-stom. — and Herd of Oxen, To- bacco highly esteemed among the Indians, En- camp near the Fillage. Entry, Guard of Ho- nour. Tent assigned to the Strangers. f ■.'K: WE departed at an early hour, and after a march of about two miles, ascended the table-land, which lies above the river, and of which the level is two hundred feet higher than that of the land on which the fort is built. From the low ground upward, the soil is covered with poplar, of a large growth ; but, the summit of the ridge is no sooner gained, than the wood is found to be smaller, and so thinly scattered, that a wheel-carriage might pass, in any direction. At noon, we crossed a small river, call- ed Moose-river, flowing- at the feet of very lofty banks. Moose-river is said to fall into Lake Dau- phin. iiiii' 276 TRAVELS AND [A.D. \-Al « Beyond this stream, the wood grows still more scanty, and the land more and more level. Our course was southerly. The snow lay four feet deep. The Indians travelled swiftly ; and, in keep- ing pace with them, my companions and myself had too much exercise, to suffer from the coldness of the atmosphere ; but, our snow-shoes being of a broader make than those of the Indians, we had much fatigue in following their track. The wo- men led, and we marched till sunset, when we reached a small coppice of wood, under the protec- tion of which we encamped. The baggage of the Indians was drawn by dogs, who kept pace with the women, and appeared to be under their com- mand. As soon as we halted, the women set up the tents, which were constructed, and covered, like those of the Cristinaux. ^^ ■;] The tent, in which I slept, contained fourteen persons, each of whom lay with his feet to the fire, which was in the middle ; but, the night was so cold, that even this precaution, with the assistance of our buffalo-robes, was insufHcient to keep us warm. Our supper was made on the tongues of the wild ox, or buffalo, boiled in my kettle, which was the only one in the camp. > At break of day, or rather before that time, we left our encampment ; the women still preceding us. On our march, we saw but little wood, and that 1776.] ADVENTURES. 277 only here and there, and at great distances. We crossed two rivulets, stealing alpng tlie bottom of very deep channels, which, no doubt, are better filled in the season of the melting of the snow. The banks here, as on the Pasquayah, or Sascatchi- waine, are composed of a whitish clay, mingled with sand. - . On the sixth of February, we had a fine clear ^y ; but, the air was exceedingly cold and bleak, no shelter from woods being afibrded us, on either side. There was but little wind, and yet, at times, enough to cause a slight drift of snow. In the evening, we encamped in a small wood, of .which the largest trees did not exceed a man's wrist in thickness. On the seventh, we left our encamp- ment at an early hour. Tracks of large herds of animals presented themselves, which the Indians said were those of red-deer. Our course was south-west, and the weather very cold. The coun- try was one uninterrupted plain, in many parts of which no wood, nor even the smallest shrub, was to be seen : a continued level, without a single eminence ; a frozen sea, of which the little coppi- ces were the islands. That, behind which we had encamped the night before, soon sunk in the hori- zon ; and die eye had nothing left, save only the sky and snow. The latter was still four feet in depth. 'ti.h 278 TRAVELS AND [A.D. At noon, we discovered, and presently passed by, a diminutive wood, or island. At four in the after- noon, another was in sight. When I could see none, I was alive to the danger to be feared from a storm of wind, which would have driven the snow upon us. The Indians related, that whole families often perish in this manner. .i;T ; u« v It was dark before we reached the wood. A fire, of which we had much need, was. soon kindled by the women. Axes were useless here; for the largest tree yielded easily to the hand. It was not only small, but in a state of decay, and easily extracted from the loose soil in which it grew. We supped on wild beef and snow-water. In the night, the wind changed to the southward, and the weather became milder. I was still asleep, when the women began their noisy preparations for our march. The striking of the tents, the tongues of the women, and the cries of the dogs, were all heard at once. At the first dawn of dayi 'we re- commenced our journey. Nothing was visible but the snow and sky ; and the snow was drifted into ridges, resembling waves. ?* isoi [- Soon after sunrise, we descried a herd of oxen, extending a mile and a half in length, and too nu- merous to be counted. They travelled, not one after another, as, in the snow, other animals usually do, but, in a broad phalanx, slowly, and some- 1T76.] ADVENTURES. 279 times stopping to feed. We did not disturb them ; because to have attacked them would have occa- sioned much delay to our progress ; and because the dogs were already sufficiently burdened, not to need the addition of the spoil. „ ' _ . , At two o'clock, we reached a small lake, sur- rounded with wood, and where the trees were of a size somewhat larger than those behind. There were birch-trees among the rest. I observed, that wherever there was water, there was wood. All the snow upon the lake was trodden down by the feet of wild oxen. When this was the case on the land, an abundance of coarse grass discovered itself be- neath. We were unable to penetrate to the water in the lake, though we cut a hole in the ice, to the depth of three feet. Where we cleared the ground for our encampments, no stones were to be seen. This evening, we had scarcely encamped, when there arrived two Osinipoilles, sent by the 0ceBt chief of the nation, whose name was the Great Road, to meet the troop. The chief had been induced to send them through his anxiety, occasioned by their longer absence than had been expected. The messengers expressed themselves much pleased at finding strangers with their friends, and told us, that we were within one day's march of their vil- lage, and that the great chief would be highly gra- li&ed, in learning the long journey \yhich we had m- 280 TRAVELS AND tA.T>. performed to visit him. They added, that in conse- quence of finding us, they must themselves return immediately, to apprise him of our coming, and enable him to prepare for our reception. Fortunately, they had not been able to take any refreshment, before a storm of wind and snow com- menced, which prevented their departure, and in which they must have been lost, had it happened later. The storm continued all the night, and part of the next day. Clouds of snow, raised by the wind, fell on the encampment, and almost buried it. I had no resource but in my buffalo-robe. mJ- Pi In the morning, we were alarmed by the ap- proach of a herd of oxen, who came from the open ground, to shelter themselves in the wood. Their numbers were so great, that we dreaded lest they should fairly trample down the camp ; nor could it have happened otherwise, but for the dogSy almost as numerous as they, who were able to keep them in check. The Indians killed several, when close upon their tents ; but, ndther the fire of the Indians, nor the noise of the dogs, could soon drive them away. Whatever were the ter- rors which filled the wood, they had no other escape from the terrors of the storm. In the night of the tenth, the wind ML The interval had been passed ui feasdng on the traigues ->4,' -.'1, 1776.] ADVENTURES. 281 of the oxen. On the morning of the eleventh, the messengers left us before day-light. We had already charged them with a present for the chief, consisting in tobacco and vermilion. Of these ar- ticles, the former exceeds all others in estimation : for the Indians are universally great smokers, men, women and children ; and no affair can be trans- acted, civil or religious, without the pipe. Our march was performed at a quick pace, in the track of the messengers. All the fore part of the day escaped, without discovering to us a single Wood, or even a single twig, with the exception of averysmaU island, lying on our ght ; but, at four o'clock in the afternoon, we reached a little scrub, or bushy tract, on which we encamped. We were at no great distance from the village ; but, tlie Indians, as is their custom, delayed their entry till the morning. . . I M^ •■m On the twelfth, at ten o'clock in the forenoon, we were in sight of a wood, or island, as the term - not unnaturally is, as well with the Indians as others : it appeared to be about a mile and a half long. Shortly after, we observed smoke rising from it, and were informed that it was the smoke of the village. The morning was clear, and the sun shining. 36 :iii 282 TRAVELS, &c. [1776. At eleven o^clock, two fresh messengers came from tfie village, by whom the strangers were for- mally welcomed, on the part of the chief. They told us, that they were directed to conduct us and our servants to a lodge, which had been prepared for our reception. ill 14 ip At the entrance of the wood, we were met by a large band of Indians, having the appearance of a guard ; each man being -armed with his bow and spear, and having his quiver filled with arrows. In this, as in much that followed, there was more of order and discipline, than in any thing which I had before witnessed among Indians. The pow- er of these g^uards appeared to be great ; for they treated very roughly some of the people, who, in their opinion, approached us too closely. Form- ing themselves in regular file, on either side of us, they escorted us to the lodge, or tent, which was assigned us. It was of a circular form, co- vered with leather, and not less than twenty feet in diameter. On the ground within, ox-skins were spread, for beds and seats. ,'•■*.'. rriV c >,•. m I CHAPTER XII. .'•►f. Hospitality and Ceremony of the Osinipoilles, Feast given by the Great Chief, The Pipe^ or Calumetf Weeping, Remarkahle Superstition, Second Feast, Orderly demeanour of the Guard, Camp, or Village, always on the alert. Number of t*i Tents and Families, Curiosity of the Inhabi- tants, Dogs, Horses, Visit of the Great Chief — Retinue — Speech — and Present* Great Chief ' designs to visit the Fort, Third Feast, Daily Feasts, Domestic Order, Military Police, Hunting the Wild 0^ proposed. OfJE half of the tent was appropriated to our use. Several women waited upon us, to make a fire, and bring water, which latter they fetched from a neighbouring tent. Shortly after our arri- val, these women brought us water, unasked for, saying that it was for washing. The refreshment was exceedingly acceptable; for, on our march, we Tiad become so dirty, that our complexions were not very distinguishable from those of the Indians themselves. ii;^li 284 TRAVELS AND [A.D. The same women presently borrowf^d our ket- tle, tf^lNng us, that they wanted to boil something for us to eut. Soon after, we heard the voice of a man, passing through the village, and making a speech as he went. Our interpreter informed us, that his s]x:ech contained an invitation to a feast, accompanied by a prochmiation, in. wliich the |x:o- ple were required to behave with decorum toward the strangers, and apprised, that the soldiers had orders to punish those who should do otlierwisc. While we were procuring this explanation, an Indian, who ap|)eared to be a chief, came into our tent, and inyited us to the feast ; adding, that he would himself show us the way. We foU lowed him accordingly, and he can-ied us to the tent of the great chief, which we found neither more onmmented, nor better furnished, than the rest. -'^^: .:,:^ At our entmnce, the chief arose from his seat, saluted us in the Indian manner, by shaking hands, and addressed us in a few words, in which he of- fered his thanks for the confidence which we had reposed in him, in trusting ourselves so far from our own country. After wc were seated, which was on bear-skins, spread on the ground, the pipe, as usual, was introduced, and presented in succes- sion to each person present. Each took his whiffy ur«.] ADVENTURES. 285 and then let it pass to his neighbour. The stem, which was four feet in length, vvus held by an offi. cer, attendant on the chief. The bowl was of red marble, or pipe -stone. When the pipe had fi;one its round, the chief, without rising from his seat, delivered a spctch of some length, but of which the general puqK)rt was of the nature already described, in speaking of the IndituM of the Lake of the Woods. ^•^ 'J "he speech cnde* several of the Indians began to weep, and they were soon joined by the whole party. Had I not previously been witness to a weeping-' scene of this description, I should certainly have been apprehensive of some disastrous catflstiv phe ; but, as it was, I listened to it with tranquillity. It lasted for about ten minutes, after which all tears were dried away, and the honours of the feast were performed by the attending chiefs. This consisted in giving to every guest a dish, containing'a boiled wild ox's tongue — for preparing which, my kettle had been borrowed. The repast fmished, the great chief dismissed us, by shaking hands ; and we returned to our tent. ( Having inquired among these people, why they always weep at their feasts, and sometimes at their . '! ; mm mm * See Part II. Clmpter 8. 286 TRAVELS AND [A. D. councils, I was answered, that their tears flowed to the memory of those deceased relations, who form- erly assisted both at the one and the other ; — that their absence, on these occasions, necessarily brought them fresh into their minds, and at the same time led them to reflect on their own brief and uncertain continuance.^ The chief to whose kindly reception we were so much indebted, was about five feet ten inch^ high, and of a complexion rather darker than that of the Indians in general. His appearance was greatly injured by the condition of Jiis head of hair, and this was the result of an extraordinary supersti? tion. m The Indians universally fix upon a particular object, as sacred to themselves ; as the giver of their prosperity, and as their preserver from evil. The choice is determined either by a dream, or by some strong predilection of fancy ; and usually falls upon an animal, or part of an animal, or some- thing else which is to be met with, by land, or by water : but, the Great Road had made choice of his hair— placing, like Sampson, all his safety in this portion of his proper substance ! His *The Oslnipoilies arc the laaati of the older travellers, aiid have sometimes been called the Wee/iers. ■J irre.] ADVENTURES. 287 hair was the fountain of all his happiness ; it was his strength and his weapon, his spear and his shield. It preserved him in battle, directed him in the chase, watched over him in the march, and gave length of days to his wives and children. Hair, of a quality like this, was not to be pro- faned by the touch of human hands. I was as- sured, that it had never been cut, nor combed, from his childhood upward ; and, that when any part of it fell from his head, he treasured up that part with care : meanwhile, it did not escape all care, even while growing on the head ; but, was in the special charge of a spirit, who dressed it while the owner slept. All this might be; but, the spirit's style of hair-dressing was at least peculiar ; the hair being suffered to remain very much as if it received no dressing at all, and matted into ropes, which spread themselves in all directions. The same evening, wc'were invited to a second feast. Every thing was nearly as before, except that in the morning all the guests were men, and now half were women. All the women were seat- ed on one side of the floor of the tent, and all the men on the other, with a fire placed between them. The fire rendering the tent warm, the men, one after another, dropped the skins which were their garments, and left themselves entirely naked. The appearance of one of them in particular, liaving led i:'!i '! K 1 : '.m ¥■ 3 !! 1 J . S. -1 ft Si 288 / TRAVELS AND fA. D. us, who were strangers, into an involuntary and ilU stifled laugh, the men calmly asked us the occasion of bur mirth ; but, one of the women pointing to the cause, the individual restored the covering of his robe. ^ * .fi-ii^.vi r The women are themsetres perfectly modest, both in dress and demeanour ; and those, who were now present, maintained the first rank in the village; but, custom had rendered the scene inoifensive to their eyes. , .. 't'p Our repast concluded, we departed, taking with us our dishes, in which the greater part of the ox- tongues, which had been laid upon them, remained unconsumed. All night, in our tent, we had a guard of six sol- diers ; and, when I awoke, as several times I did, I always found them smoking their pipes in si- lence. ^ i We rose at day-break, according to the custom of the Indians, who say, that they follow it in order to avoid surprises ; this being the hour at which the enemy uniformly makes his attack. i ^ Our waiting- women arrived early, bringing wood and water. Washing appeared to me to be < , ■: \' i7r6.] ADVENTURES. 289 SL ceremony of religion among the Osinipoilles ; and I never saw any thing similar among other In- dians. Leaving our tent, ive made a progress through the village, which consisted of about two hundred tents, each tent containing from two to four fami- lies. We were attended by four soldiers of our guard, but this was insufficient for keeping off the women and children, who crowded round us with insatiable curiosity. Our march was likewise ac- companied by a thousand dogs, all howling fright- fully. From the village, I saw, for the first time, one of those herds of horses which the Osinipoilles possess in numbers. It was feeding on the skirts of the plain. The masters of these herds provide them with no fodder ; but, leave them to find food for themselves,, by removing the snow with their feet, till they reach the grass, which is every where on the ground in plenty. At ten o'clock, we returned to our tent, and in a short time the great chief paid us a visit, attended by nearly fifty followers of distinction. In coming in, he gave his hand to each of us, and all his at- tendants followed his example. When we were seated, one of the officers went through the cere- mony of the pipe, after which, the great chief deli- 37 !'•!) m§ ■^ o 296 ) TRAVELS AND [A.D. l» vered a speech, of which the substance was as'foU lows; That he was glad to see us; that he hadbeen, some time since, informed of a fort of the white*.^ men's being established on the Pasquayah, an^ ^ that it had always been his ititention to pay a visit there ; that we were our own masters, to remain at our pleasure in his village, free from molestation, and assured of his especial protection ; that the young nien had employed themselves in collecting meat and furs, for the purpose of purchasing cer- tain articles, wherewith to decorate their wives ; that within a few days he proposed to move, with his vyhole village, on this errand ; that nothing should be omitted to make our stay as agreeable as possible ; that he had already ordered a party of his soldiers to guard us, and that if any thing should occur to displease us, his ear was always open to our complaints. For all these friendly communications, we offer- ed our thanks. His visit to the fort it had beoia principal object to invite, . After the speech, the chief presented us with twenty beaver-skins, and as many woff. In return, we gave two pounds of vermilion, and a few fathom of twisted tobacco, assuring him, that when he should arrive at our habitation, we would endea- vour to repay the benefits u hich we were receiving from him, and at the same time cheerfully exchange x_ 1776.] ADVENTURES. 291 our merchandise, for the dried meat and skins of his village. It was agreed that he should strike his camp at the end of five days, and that We should remain in it so long, and accompany it to the fort. The chief now departed ; and I believe that we were reciprocally pleased with each other. A short time after he was gone, we received an. invitation to a feast, from a subordinate chief. Our dishes were again filled with tongues, but roasted, and not boiled. To furnish us with water^ we saw an ox's paunch employed as a kettle. This being hung in the smoke of a fire, was filled with snow ; and, as the snow melted, more was added, till the paunch was full of water. The lower orifice of the organ was used for drawing off the water, and stopped with a plug and string. During our whole stay, we never had occasion for cookery at home ; but, my kettle was ii^ con- stant use, and for the most part in preparation of the feasts at which we were daily guests* In our tent, we were regularly supplied with water, either by the women, or by the guards. The guards were changed daily. They fre- quently beat the people, for disobedience of orders, and the offenders made no resistance to the chas- tisement. We were informed, that there was at both extremities of the camp, or village, a picket ^■^^r ^S'^ iiii M i"(''f! r'i'l uM 292 TRAVELS, Sec. [1776. of two men, whose duty it was not to allow any person to go beyond the bounds. The intention of this was to prevent stragglers from falling a prey to the enemy.v General orders were issued by the chief, mormng and evening, and published fay a crier, in every part of the camp. In the course of the day, the great chief infcmn- cd us, that he proposed hunting the wild ox on the followmg morning, and invited us to be of the party. 'II CHAPTER XIII. fPVdOxHunt. Dances and Festivity, Musical Instruments* Some account of the Piains-^In- habitants to the Westward, Weapons of War* Horses originally procured from the Spaniards, Religious notions and practtce^^^ Songs — Feasts ^^FastS'-'Dances-^Sacrifices. Agreement^ in these and other particulars., between the Osini- poilles and Cristinaux, Marriages of the Indians in general, — Courtship — Contracts of Marriage, Stews, Sudatories, or Sweating-Houses. Polyga- my, Paucity of Children, Burialof the Dead, Manes. Food placed on Graves, Monuments* Persons of the Osinipoittes, Dress of the Women* Cruel treatment of Slaves. I IN the morning, we went to the hunt accord- ingly. • The chief was followed by about forty men, and a great number of women* We proceeded to* a small island on the plain, at the distance of five miles from the village. On our way, we saw large herds of oxen, at feed ; but, the hunters forbore to molest them, lest they should take the alarm. tti Hiil If i!i 294 TRAVELS AND £A.D. ^Vrrived at the island, the women pitched a few tents, while the chief led his hunters to- its southern codf where there was a pound, or enclosure. The fence was about four f<^et high, and formed of strong stakes of birch-wood, n-attled with smaller branches of the same. The day was spent in ma- king repairs ; and by the evening all was ready for the hunt At day-light^ several of the more expert hunters were sent to decoy the animals into the pound. They were dressed in ox-skins, with the hair and horns. Their faces were covered, and their ges- tures so closely resembled those of the animals themselves, that had I not been in the secret, I should have been as much deceived as the oxen. At ten o'clock, one of the hunters returned, bringing information of the herd. Immediately, all die dogs were muzzled ;. and this done, the whole crowd of men and women surrounded the outside of the pound. The herd, of which the extent was so great that I cannot pretend to estimate the num- bers^ was distant half a mile, advancing slowly, and frequently stopping to feed. The part, played bj'the decoyers, was that of approaching them within hearing, and then bellowing like themselves. On hearing the noise, the oxen did not fail to ^ve it attention ; and, whether from curio^ty or sym- patli}^, ad\ anced to meet those from whom it pro- 1776.] ADVENTURES. 295 ceedecL These, in the mean time, fell back deli- berately toward the pound, always repeating the caU, whenever the oxen stopped. I'his was reite- rated till the leaders of the herd had followed the decoyers into the jaws of the pound, which, though wide asunder toward the plain, terminated, like a funnel, in a small aperture, or gate- way; and, within this, was the pound itself. The Indians remark, that in all herds of animals there are chiefs, or leaders, by whom the motions of the rest are determined. The decoyers now retired within the pound, and were followed by the oxen. But, the former retired still further, withdrawing themselves at certain movable parts of the fence, while the latter were &llen upon by all the hunters, and presendy wounded, and killed, by showers of arrows. Amid the uproar which ensued, the oxen made several attempts to force the fence ; but, the Indians stop- ped them, and drove them back, by shaking skins before their eyes. Skins were also made use of to stop the entrance, being let down by strings, as soon as the oxen were inside. The slaughter was prolonged till the evening, when the hunters re- turned to their tents. Next morning, all the tol^gues were presented to the chief, to the number of se- venty-two. The women brought the meat to the village, on sledges drawn by dogs. The lumps on the shouf* iii 296 TRAVELS AND [A.D. m ders, and the hearts, as well as the tongues, were set apart for feasts ; while the rest was consumed as ordinaiy food, or dried, for sale at the fort •II. The time was now passed in dancing and festivity, in all quarters of the village. On the even- ing of the day after the hunt, the chief came to our tent, bringing with him about twenty men, and as many women, who seated separately themselves as before; but, they now brought musical instruments, and, soon after their arrival, began to play. The instruments consisted principally in a sort of tam- bourine, and a gourd filled with stones, which several persons accompanied by shaking two bones together ; and others with bunches of deer- hoofs, fastened to the end of a stick. Another in- strument was one that was no more than a piece of wood, of three feet, with notches cut on its edge. The performer drew a stick backward and forward, along the notches, keeping time. The women sung; and the sweetness of their voices exceeded whatever I had heard before. This entertainment lasted upward of an hour ; said when it was finished a dance commenced. The men formed themselves into a row on one side, and the women on the other ; and each mo- ved sidewise, first up, and then down the room. The sound of bells and other jingling matyials, attached to the women's dresses, enabled them to # 1776.] ADVENTURES. 297 keep time. The songs and dances were continued alternately, till near midnight, when all our visitors departed. These amusements were given to us compli- mentarily, by the chief. He took no part in the per- formances himself ; but, sat smoking while they proceeded. III. It had been my wish to go (Urther on the Plains, till I should have reached tife moun* tains, at the feet of which, as I have already observed, they lie ; but, the chief informed me» that the latter were still at the distance of many days' journey, and that the intervening country was a tract destitute of the least appearance of wood. In the winter, as he asserted, this tract cannot be crossed at all ; and in the summer, the traveller is in great danger of perishing for want of water ; and the only fuel to be met with is the dung of the wild ox. It is intersected by a large river, which runs to the sun's rising, and which has its sources ill the mountains. • With regard to tlie country of the Osinipoilles, he said, that it lay between the head of the Pas- quayah, or Sascatchiwaine, and the country of the Sioux, or Nadowessies, who inhabit the heads of the Missisipi. On the west, near the mountains, ■ 38 % 298 TRAVPl-S ANP [A.D, were the Snal^e Indians and Black-feet, troupe- some neighbours, by whose h£^lds numbers of his warriors fell. " \ The Osinipoilles have npiany villages, coinpojsed of froin one to two hundred tents each. Fe>yexceedi the latter number. They often go to the moun- tains, on war-parties, and always on horsebaclf. Wherf the ^eat chief intends to go to war, he se^id^ mt^ssengers to the severai;villages, djirecting the warriors to meet him at an appointed place and time. With regard to the latter, it is described by the moon, as the beginning, full, or end. In obedience to the summons, they assemblie in great- er numbers than can be counted,* armed with the bow, sling and spear, and with quivers full of ar- rows. — They have still another weapon, formed of a stone of about two pounds weight, which is sew- ed in leather, and made fast to a wooden handle, two feet long. In using it, the stone is whirled round the handle , by a warrior sitting on horseback , andattack- ing at full speed. Kvery stroke, which takes effect, brings down a man, or horse ; or, if used in the chase, an ox. To prevent the weapon from slipping out of the hand, a string, which is tied to the handle, is also passed round the wrist of the wearer. The horses of the Osinipoilles were originally procured froni white people, with beards, who live to the * This was the chief's expression. # 1776.] ADVENTUltES. 299 southard ; that is, the Sj)kiilsh colonists, in New- Mexico. / ; -^ Th^ animals, which I saw alive on the Plains, are oxen, red-deer and wolves ; but, I saw also the skins of foxes, bears, and a small number of panthers, sometimes called tigers, and most pro- perly, cougars,^ IV. In their religious notions, as well as in their dressy arms and other particulars, there is a general agreement between the Osinipoilles and the Cristinaux.t They believe in a creator and go- vernor of the world, Jil a future life, and in the spirits, gods, or manitos^ whom they denominate Tluakons, Their practices of devotion consist in the singing of songs, accoriipaniedby the drunl, or rattle, or both ; and the subjects of^^hich are prayers and praises : ih simokitig-f^feasts, or feasts of the pipe, or calumet, held in honour of the spirits, to whom the STtioke of tobacco is supposed to be a most accepta- ble incense ; and in other feasts, as well as in fasts and in sacrifices. The victims of sacrilice are , • Felis concolor. t Such of the Cristinaux as inhabit the Plains, Have also their horses, like the Osinipoilles. By language, the Osinipoilles ai*e allied to the Nadowessies ; but, they are always at war with therh. Of the language of the Nado* \liressi68, Carver has given a shbrt voctibulary. 3 % * "1 I •K,^- ililEl iHiiiH Hi I'M i /r't w ;iP' 300 TRAVELS AND [A.D. usually dogs, which being killed, and hung upon poles, are left there to decay. V. Many travellers have described the mar- riages of the Indians ; but, as they have greatly disagreed in their delineations, I shall venture to set down such particulars as have presented themselves, to my immediate view. Though in- serted here, they have no exclusive relation to the Osinipoilles ; all the Indians, whom I have seen, having similar customs on this head. A young man, desirous of marr}^ing a particular young woman, visits the lodge in which she lives, at night, and when all the family, or rather families, are sleeping on their mats around. He comes pro- vided with a match, or splint of wood, which he lights among the embers of one of the fires which are in the middle of the lodge. The only intention of this, is the very obvious one, of finding, by the help of the light, the young woman whom he means to visit, and whom, perhaps, he has to awa- ken. This done, he extinguishes the light. In speaking to her, he whispers, because it is not ne- cessary to disturb all the lodge ; atid because some- thing like privacy and secrecy belong to the nature of the occasion. If she makes no reply to his ad- dress, he coiittiders his attempts at acquaintance as repulsed, and in consequence retires. If the young woman receives him with favour, he takes part of 'i # 1776.] ADVENTURES. 301 her mat. He brings with him his own blanket. — I consider this practice as precisely similar to the bundling of New-England, and other coun- tries ; and, to say the least, as not more licentious. Children, bom out of wedlock, are very rare among the Indians. The lover, who is permitted to remain, retires beforeday-break. When theyoung woman has con- sented to be his wife, he opens the affair to his own mother, by whom it is communicated to her's ; and if the two mothers agree, they mutually apply to their husbands. . The father of the young man then invites the father of the young woman to a stew, or sudatory, prepared for the occasion, and at which he com- municates the wishes of his son. The father of the young woman gives no reply till the day fol- lowing, when, in his own turn, he invites the other to the sweating-house. If he approves of the match, the terms upon which it is to be made are now settled. Stews, sudatories, or sweating-houses, ai'e re- sorted to for cure of sickness, for pleasure, or for giving freedom and vigour to the faculties of the mind, when particular deliberation and sagacity are called for. To prepare them for a guest, is, there- fore, to offer every assistance to his judgment, and i- ^•' iiU: ! 1* J 502 TRAVJELS AkD [A. b. manifest the reveirse of a disposition to take an iinfeir advantage of him : it is the exact opposite of offering him liquor. They are constructed of slender branches of trees, united at the top, and closely covered with skins Or blankets. Within; water is poured upon a red-hot stone, till the steam induces perspiration. The terms are either, that the young man, as was most usual in older times, shall serve the father of the young woman for a certain period, (as for three years,) or that he shall redeem himself from this obligation by a present. If he be to serve, then, at the time fixed, he goes, accompanied by his father and mother, to the lodge of the young woman's family. There,' he is desi- red, by her mother, to sit down on the same mat with her. A feast is usually served, and the young woman's father delivers a suitable speech. The young man is thenceforward regarded as one of his wife's family, and remains in tht lodge ac- cordingly. lo If, on the other hand, he redeems himself by a present, then his father and mother go alone to the lodge of the young woman's family, carrying a pre- sent. If the present bie accepted, they leave it, and return home ; and, shortly after, the father and mother, accompanied by their daughter, go' tb thi^ 1776.] ADVENTURES. 303 lodge of the bridegroom's family, where the bride h desired to sit down beside her husband. The feast and speech ar^ now made by the young man's father, ^i^ the yoVJig vyon^an is received into his "^ Every man iparries as many wives as he pleases, and as he ca^i maintjain ; and, the usual number is from one to five. The oldest, in most cases, is the mis- ti;.ess of the family, and of the other wives amonj^ tlie rest. They appear to live in much harmony. Polygamy, among the Indians, conduces little to' population. For the number of adults, the chil- dren are always few. VI. In naming a child, the father officiates, arid the ceremony is simple. The relations are invit(!d to a feast, when he makes a speech, informing the guests of the name by which the child is to be caUi^^ cd, and addresses a prayer to the Great Spirit, pe-'^ titioning for the child's life and welfare. VII. With respect to the burial of the dead, if the death happen in the winter- season, and at a dis- tance from the burial-ground of the family, the body invariably accompanies all the wanderings and journeys of the survivors, till the spring, iuid till their arri^ al at the place of interment. In the mean time, it is every-where rested on a scaffold,^ out of the reach of beasts of prey. The grave is !l!!'t l! !i a li liilii m ■f hi ■ 'H m 304 TRAVELS AND [A. a made of a circular form, about five feet deep* and lined with bark of the birch, or some other tree, or with skins. A seat is prepared, and the body is placed in a sitting posture, with supporters on either side. If the deceased be a man, his weapons of war, and of the chase, are buried with hini, as also his shoes, and every thing for which, as a living warrior or hunter, he would have occasion, and, indeed, all his property ; and I belieVe that those, whose piety alone may not be strong enough to ensure to the dead the entire inventory of what is supposed to be necessary for them, or is their own, are compelled to do them justice by another argument, and which is, the fear of their displea* sure. A defrauded or neglected ghost, although invisible, can disperse the game of the plains or forests, so that the hunter shall hunt in vain ; and, either in the chase or in the war, turn aside the ar- row, or palsy the arm that draws the bow : in the lodge, it can throw a child into the fire. . , The body and its accompaniments are covered with bark ; the bark with logs ; and the logs with earth. This done, a relation stands up, and pro- nounces an eulogium on the deceased, extolling his virtues, and relating his exploits. He dwells upon the enemies whom he slew, the scalps and prisoners which he took, his skill and industry in the chase, and his deportment as a father, husb?r>ti, son, bro- ther, friend, and member of the community. At "f'c 1776.] ADVENTURES; 505 each assertion which he makes, the speaker strikes a post, which is placed near the grave j a gesture of asseveration, and which enforces the attention of the audience, and assists in counting up the points delivered. The eulogium finished, the post is painted,* and on it are represented the number of prisoners taken, by so many figures of men ; and of killed and scalped, by figures without heads. To these are added his badge, called, in the Algon-, quin tongue, a toteniy and which is in the nature of an armorial bearing. It informs the passing In- dian of the family to which the deceased belonged* A serious duty at the grave, is that of placing food, for the use of the dead, on the journey to the hnd of souls. This care is never neglected, even under every disadvantage of molestation. In the neighbourhood of the traders, dishes of cooked ve* nison are very commonly placed on the graves of those long buried, and as commonly removed by -Europeans, even without offence to those who placed them there. In situations of great want, I have more than once resorted to them for food. VIII. The men, among the Osinipoilles, are well made ; but, their colour is much deeper than that of the more northern Indians. Some of * Hence, The JPainted Post ^ the name of a village in Pennsylvania. . 39 l||ilti :i I ■ulii l;,ll|l Ml d06 TRAVELS AND [A.D. the women are tolerably handsome, considering how they live, exposed to the extremes of heat and cold, and placed in an atmosphere of smoke, for at least one half of the year. Their dress is of the same materials, and of the same form, with that of the female Cristinaux. The mar- tied women suflPer their hair to grow at random, and even hangover their eyes. All the sex is fond of garnishing the lower edge of the dress with small bells, deer-hoofs, pieces of metal, or any thing capable of making a noise. When they move, the sounds keep time, and make a fantastic harmony. IX. The Osinipoilles treat with great cruelty^ their slaves. As an example, one of the principal chiefs, whose tent was near that which we occupied, had a female slave, of* about twenty years of age. I saw her always on the outsidd4)f the door of the tent, exposed to the severest cold ; and having asked the reason, I was told, that she was a slave, I'he information induced me to speak to her master, in the hope of procuring some mitigation of the hardships she underwent ; but, he gave me for answer, that he had taken her on the other side of the western mountains ; that at the same time he had lost a brother and a son, in battle ; and that the enterprise had taken place, in order to release one of his own nation, who had been a slave in her's, 1776.] ADVENTURES. ;507 and who had been used with much greater severity than that which she experienced. — The reaUty, of the last of these facts, appeared to me to be impos- sible. The wretched woman fed and slept with the dogs, scrambling with them for the bones which were thrown out of the tent. When her master was within, she was never permitted to en- ter ; at all seasons, the children amused them- selves with impunity in tormenting her, thrusting lighted sticks into her face ; and if she succeeded in warding off these outrages, she was violently beaten. I was not successful in procuring any diminution of her sufFerhigs ; but, I drew some relief from the idea, that their duration could not be long. They were too heavy to be sustained* It is known, that some slaves have the good for- tune to be adopted into Indian families, and are af- terward allowed Jo marry in them; but, among the Osinipoilles,this seldom happens^ and, even among the Chipeways, where a female slave is so adopted and married, I never knew her to lose the degrading appellation oiwa'kan'y a slave.* n * This word, nvakan^ which, in the Algonquin language^ signifies a slavey is not to be confounded with wakan^ op wakon, which, in the language of the Nadowe$sies and Osinipoilles, signifies a spirit^ or nianito. \ ^ . CHAPTER XIV. Osinipoilles strike their Camp, and march for Fort des Prairies. Departure. Order of march. Join a second Camp. Herds of Horses — their •winter stations. OshripoiUet reach the Fort, and exchange their Skins and Provisions for TVinkets — their independence on Foreign Trade, Osinipoilles leave the Fort — their Aational Cha- racter. State of Trade on the Sascatchhvaine — prices of European Merchandise there. Author leaves the Forty on his return to Beaver Lake. ON the nineteenth of Febroaiy, the chief appri- sed us, that it was his design to depart the next morning for the fort In consequence, we coU lected our baggage, which, however, was but small ; consisting in a buflyo-robe for each person, an axe and a kettle. The last was reluctantly parted with by our friends^ who had none left to supply its place. At day -break, on the twentietfa, all was noise and confusion in the camp ; the women beating aind loading the dogs, and the dogs howling and 1776.] TRAVELS, he. d09 crying. The tents were speedily struck, and the coverings and poles packed up, to be drawn by the d<^;s. V Soon after sunrise, the march began. In the van were twenty-five soldiers, who were to beat the path, so that the dogs might walk. They were followed by about twenty men, apparently in rea- diness for contingent services ; and after these went the women, each driving one or two, and some, five loaded dogs. The number of these ani- mals, actually drawing loads, exceeded five huna> dred. After the baggage, marched the main body of the men, carrying only their arms. The rear was guarded by about forty soldiers. The line of march certainly exceeded three miles in length. The morning was clear and calm. Our road was a different one from that by which we had reached the camp. We passed several herds of wild oxen, which betrayed some alarm at the noise of the d<^ and women, resounding on every side. Our march was pursued till sunset, when we reached a small wood, the first that we had seen all day. The great chief desired Mr. Patterson and myself to lodge in his own tent, and we accord- ingly became part of his family. We saw that his m 310 TRAVELS AND [A.D. entire and numerous household was composed of relations. l*he chief, after smoking his pipe, de- termined the line of march for the next day ; and his dispositions in this regard were immediately published through the camp. At day -break, our tents were again struck, and we proceeded on our march, in the same order as the day before. To-day, (to follow the phraseology of the Plains,) we had once land in sight , consisting in two small islands^ lying at a great distance from our road. On our march, the chief informed us, that he proposed reaching another camp of his peo- ple that evening, and would take it with him to the fort. Accordingly, at about four o'clock in the af- ternoon, we discovered a wood, and presently after- ward saw smoke rising from it. At sunset, we encamped near the wood, where we found a hun- dred tents. We were not long arrived, before the chiefs of this second camp paid a visit to the Great Road, who informed them of his intention to visit the fort, and recommended to them to join his march. They consented, and orders were given as usual, by a public officer. Then^;ht afforded me but little sleep, so greatwas the disturbance, firom noises of all kinds ; — feasting and dancing ; the women chastising the dogs ; the dogs of the two camps meeting, and maintaining IT76.] ADVENTURES. 311 against each other, the whole night long, a univer^ sal war. In the morning, the two camps united in one line of march, which was now so far extended, that those in the rear could not descry the front. At noon, we passed a small wood, where we saw horses feed- ing. The Indians informed me, that they belong- ed to one of their camps, or villages ; and that it was their uniform custom to leave their horses, in the beginning of winter, at the first wood where they were when the snow fell, at which the horses always remain through the season, and where their masters are sure to find them in the spring. The horses never go out of sight of the island assigned them, winter or summer, for fear of wanting its shelter in a storm. We encamped this evening among some small brush- wood. Our tire went out accidentally in the night ; and I was kept awake by the cold, and by the noise of the dogs. In the course of the next day, the twenty-third of the month, we passed several coppices, and saw that the face of the country was changing, and that v'c had arrived on the margin of the Plains. On lii. twenty-seventh, we encamped on a large wood, where the Indians resolved on leaving the old wo- men and children, till their return from the fort, 31^ TRAVELS AND [A.D. from which we were now distant only one day's march. On the twenty-eighth, they hahed for the whole day ; but, we engaged two of them to lead us forward, and thus arrived in the evening at the fort, where we found all well. A large band of Cristinaux had brought skins from the Beaver River. Next day, the Indians advanced their camp to within half a mile of the fort, but left thirty tents behind them in the wood. They continued with us three days, selling their skins and provisions, for trinkets. It is not in this manner that the Northern Indians dispose of the harvest of the chase. With them, the principal purchases are of necessaries ; but, the Osinipoilles are lessdej>endent on our merchandise. The wild ox alone supplies them with every thing which thev are accustomed to want. The hide of this animal, when dressed, furnishes soft clothing for the women ; and, dressed with the hair on, it clothes the men. The flesh feeds them ; the si- news aiFord them bow-strings ; and even the paunch, as we have seen, provides them with that important utensil, the kettle. The amazing num- bers of these animals prevent all fear of want ; a fear which is incessandy present to the Indians of the north. -■^ 1776.] ADVENTURES. 313 On the fowrth morning, theOsinipoillcs departed. The Great Road expressed himself much satisfied with his reception, and he was well deserving of a good one ; foF in no situation could strangers have been treated mor^ hospitably than we were treated in his camp. The best of every thing it contained was given us. , TheOsinipoillcs, at this period, had had no ac- quaintance with any foreign nation, sufficient to af- fect their ancient and pristine habits. Like the other Indians, they were cruel to their enemies; but, as far as the experience of myself and other Eu- ropeans authorises me to speak, they were a harmless people, with a large share of simplicity of manners, and plain -dealing. They lived in fear of the Cristinaux, by whom they were not only fre- quently imposed upon, but pillaged, when the latter met their bands, in smaller numbers than their own. - As to the Cristinaux, they are a shrewd race of men, and can cheat, lie, and sometimes steal ; yet even the Cristinaux are not so much addicted to stealingas is reported of the Indians of the South Sea : their stealing is pilfering ; and they seldom pilfer any thing but r«m, a commodity which tempts them Jbeyond the power of resistance. 40 « 314 TRAVELS AND [A.D. I remained at Fort des Prairies till the twenty- second of March, on which day I commenced my return to Beaver Lake. Fort des Prairies, as already intimated, is built on the margin of the Pasquayah, or Sascatchiwaine, which river is here two hundred yards across, and flows at the depth of thirty f^et below the level of its banks. The fort has an area of about an acre, which is enclosed by a good stockade, though formed only of poplar, or aspen- wood,* such as the country affords. It has two gates, which are carefully shut every evening, and has usually from fifty to eighty men for its defence. Four different interests were struggling for the Indian trade of the Sascatchiwaine ; but, fortunate- ly, they had this year agreed to join their stock, and when the season was over, to divide the skins and meat. This arrangement was beneficial to the merchants ; but, not directly so to the Indians, who, having no other place to resort to, nearer than Hud- son's Bay, or Cumberland House, paid greater prices than if a competition had subsisted. A competition, on the other hand, afflicts the Indians with a variety of evils, in a different form. 'KThis fort, orone which occupied a contiguous site, was fprmerly known by the name of Fort aux Trembles, / 1776.] ADVENTURES. 315 The following were the prices of goods at Fort des Prairies : A gun, - - • A Stroud blanket, A white do. An axe, of one pound weight, Haifa pint of gunpowder. Ten balls, - *. 20 beaver-skins. 10 8 3 1 1 do. do. do. do. do. but, the principal profits accrued from the sale of knives, beads, flints, steels, awls and other small articles. Tobacco, when sold, fetched one beaver-«kin per foot of Spencer'* s twist; and rum, not very strong, two beaver-skins per bottle : but, a great proportion of these commodities was disposed of in presents. The quantity of furs brought into the fort was very great. From twenty to thirty Indians arrived daily, laden with packs of beaver-skins. CHAPTER XV. m Author arrives at Beaver Lake, Subsistence be-- comes scarce. Supply of Water -forwL Voyage to the ^issinipi. Voyage on the Missinipi, to- ward Lake Arabuthccrw, or Athabasca. Chepewy^ ans — Dress — Manners — authority of the Chiefs^ and their care of the People, Impositions of En- glish Traders, and credulity of the Indians. Voyage from the Missinipi to the Grand Portage, IVild scene on Beaver Lake, Author, in company^ with Mr. Frobisher, arrives at the Grand Por- tage — and at Montreal, THE days being now lengthened, and the snow capable of bearing the foot, we travelled swiftly j and the weather, though cold, was very fine. On the fifth of April, we arrived, without acci- dent, at Cumberland House. On our way, we saw nothing living, except wolves, who followed us in great numbers, and against whom we were obliged to use the precaution of maintaining large fires at our encampmerits. 1776.] TRAVELS, fcc. 317 On the seventh, we left Cumberland House ; and on the ninth, in the morning, reached our fort on Beaver Lake, where I had the pleasure of finding my friends well. In my absence, the men had supported them- selves by fishing ; and they were all in health, with the exception of one, who was hurt at the Grand Portage, by a canoe's falling upon him. \ ■ ^^ On the twelfth, Mr. Thomas Frobisher, with six men, was despatched to the river Churchill, where he was to prepare a fort, and inform such Indians, as he might see on their way to Hudson's Bay, of the approaching arrival of his partners. The ice was still in the same state as in January ; but, as the season advanced, the quantity of fish diminished, insomuch that Mr. Joseph Frobisher and myself were obliged to fish incessantly ; and often, notwithstanding every exertion, the men went supperless to bed. In a situation like tliis, the Canadians are the best men in the world ; thev rarely murmur at their lot, and their obedience is yielded cheerfully. We continued fishing till the fifth of May, when we saw swans, flying toward the Maligne. From this circumstance, and from our knowledge of the rapidity of the current of that river, we supposed / 318 TRAVELS AND [A.D. It was free from ice. In consequence, I proceeded thither, and arriving in the course of a day's jour- ney, found it covered with swans, geese and other water-fowl, with which I soon loaded my sledge, and then returned to the fort. The passage, toward the Churchill, being thus far open, we left our fort on the twenty-first of May, forty in number, and with no greater stock of pro- vision than a single supper. At our place of en- campment, we set our nets, and caught more fish than we had need of ; and the same food was plen- ty with us all the way. The fish were pickerel and white-fish. > . in On the twenty-second, we crossed two carrying- places, of half a mile each, through a level country, with marshes on the border of the river. The sun now appeared above the horizon, at half past eight o'clock in the morning ; and there was twilight all the time that he was btlow it. The men had but few hours for rest ; for, after encamping, a supper was not only to be cooked, but caught, and it was therefore Jate before they went to sleep. Mr. Fro- bisher and myself rose at three ; and the men were stirring still earlier, in order to take up ttiC nets, so that we might eat our breakfast, and be on our journey, before sunrise. 1776.5 ADVENTURES. 319 On the sixth of June, we arrived at a large lake, which, to our disappointment, was entirely frozen over, and at the same time the ice was too weak to be walked upon. We were now fearful of deten- tion for several days ; but had the consolation to find our situation well supplied with fish. On the following night there was a fall of snow, which lay on the ground to the depth of a foot. The wind was from the north-east. The Indians who were of our party hunted, and killed several elks, or moose-deer. At length, the wind changed into the southern quarter, on which we had rain, aiid the snow melted. On the tenth, with some difficulty, we crossed the lake, which is twenty miles in length, through a channel opened in the ice. On the fifteenth, after passing several car- rying-places, we reached the river Churchill, Mis- sinibi, or Missinipi, where we found Mr. Thomas Frobisher and his men, who were in good health, and had built a house for our reception. The whole country, from Beaver Lake to the Missinipi, is low near the water, with mountains in the distance. The uplands have a growth of small pine-trees, and the valleys, of birch and spruce. The river is called the Churchill River j from Fort Churchill, in Hudson's Bay, the most northerly of the company's factories or trading-houses, and which is seated at its mouth. By Mr. Joseph Frobisher, it was named English River, At the spot where our 320 TRAVELS AND [A. D. house was built, the river is five miles wide, and very deep. We were estimated, by the Indians, to be distant three hundredmiles from the sea. Cum- berland House was to the southward of us, distant four hundred miles. We had the light of the sun, in sufficient quantit}- for all purposes, during the whole twenty-four hours. The redness of his rays reached far above the horizon. We were in expectation of a particular band of Indians, and as few others made their appearance, we resolved on ascending the river to meet them, and even, in failure of that event, to go as fer westward as Lake Arabuthcow,* distant, accord- ing to the Indians, four hundred and fifty miles. With these views, we embarked on the six- teenth, with six Canadians, and also one Indian woman, in the capacity of a guide, in which service Mr. Frobisher had previously employed her. As we advanced, we found die river frequently widening into lakes, thirty miles long, and so broad, as well as so crowded with islands, that we were unable to distinguish the main land on either side. Above them, we found a strait, in which the chan- nel was shallow, rocky and broken, with the at- tendant features of rapidr and carrying-places. * Called also jithafitucovfj and Athaba»ca, irfe.] ADVENTURES. 321 T(ie country was mountainous, and thinly wr>oded; and the banks of the river were contihuei rocks. Higher up, lofty mountains discovered themselves, destitute even of moss ; and it was only at inters vals, that we saw a&r o£f a few stunted pine-trees. On the fifth day, we reached the Rapide du Ser^ pent, which is supposed to be thvee hundred miles from our point of departure. We found white-fish, so numerous, in all the rapids, that shoals of many thousands wei^ visible, with their backs above the water. The men supplied themselves by killing them with their paddles. The water is clear and transparent. The Rapide du Serpent, is about three ihiles long, and very sr/ift. Above this, we reached ano- ther rapid, over the carrying-place of which we carried our c^moe. At this place^ vegetation began to re-appero* ; and the country became level, and of an agreeable aspect. Nothing human had hi* therto discovered itself ; but, v/e had seen several bears, and two canbgtix^ on the sides of the moun- tains, without being able to kill any thing. The course of the river was here from south to north. We continued our voyage till the* twen- ty-fourth, when, a large opening being before us, we saw a number of cant)es, filled with Indians, on 41 I 3S2 TRAVELS AND [A.a ^TJ n their voyage down the stream. Wc soon met each other, ill the most friendly manner. We made presents of tobacco to the chiefs, and were by them requested to put to shore, that we might encamp together, and anprove our acquaint- ance. Tn a short time, we were visited by the chiefs, who brought us bearer-skins, in return for which we gave a second present ; and we now proposed to them to return with tfaem to our fort, where we were provided with large quantities of such goods as they wanted. They received our proposal with satisfaction. On the twenty-fifth of June, Vre embarked, with all the Indians in our company, and continued our voysige day and night, stopping only to boil our kettle. We reached our house on the first of July. The Indians comprised two bands, or parties, each bearing the name of its chief, of whom one was called the Marten, and the other, the Rapid. They had joined for mutual defence, against the Cristinaux, of whom they were in continual dread. They were not at war with that nadbn, but sub- ject to be pillaged by its bands. While the lodges of the Indians were setting up, the chiefs paid us a visit, at which they received a large present of merchandise, and agreed to our I77«.] ADVENTURES. 323 request, that we should be permitted to purchase the furs of their bands. They inquire called by the same name ; but,, whether this lake was or was not the sea, or whether it emptied itself or not into the sea, they were unable to say. They were at war with the Indians who live • Or Y-atchArUm Sifiii C t These are the rivers which have since been explored by Sir Alexander Mackenzie. — ^ . < irf6.] ADVENTURES^ S25 at the bottom of the river, v^here the water is salt. They also made war on the people beyond the mountains, toward the Pacific Ocean, to which their warriors had frequently been near enough to ' see it. Though we conversed with these people in the Cree, or Cristinaux language, which is the usual medium of communication, they were Chepe- wyans, or Rocky Mountain Indians. , . They were in possession of several ultramon- tane prisoners, two of whom we purchased : one, a'woman of twenty-five years of age ; and the other, a boy of twelve. They had both been recently ta;- ken, and were unable to speak the language of their masters. They conversed with each other in a language exceedingly agreeable to the ear, compo- sed of short words, and spoken with a quick utter- ance. We gave for each a gUi^ The dress of the Chepewyans nearly resembled that of the Cristinaux ; except that it was compo- sed of beaver and marten-skins, instead of tliose of the ox and elk. We found these people orderly and unoffending ; and they appeared to consider the whites as creatures iof a superior order, to whom every thing is known. The women were dirty, and very inattentive to their whole persons, the head excepted, which they paintedwli^ red ochre, in defect of vernrilion. Both !ii 326 TRAVELS AND [A.D. themselves, and their husbands for tlmn, were for- ward in seeking a loose intercourse with the Euro- peans. The former appeared vain of solicitation, and having iir^t ob^ned the consent of their husbands, afterward communicated to them their success^ The men, who^ no doubt thought with the Cris- tinaux on this subject,^ were the first to speak in behalf of their wives ; and were even in the prac- tice of carrying them to Hildson'sBay, a journey of ihany hundred miles, on no other errand. Having been fortunate enough to administer medical relief to one of these Indians, during their stay, I came to be considered as a physician, and found that this was a character held in high venera- tion. Their solicitude and credulity, asi to drugs and nostrums, had exposed them to gross decep- tions, on the part of the agents of the Hudson's Bay Company. One of the chiefs informed me, that he had been at the Bay the year before, and there purchased a quantity of medicines, wliich he would allow me to inspect. Accordingly, he brought a bag, containing numerous^ Imkll papers, in which I found lumps of white sugar, grains of coffee, pepper, allspice, cloves, tea, nutmegs, gin- ger and other things of this kind, sold as specifics against evil spirits, and against the dangers of bat- tle ; as giving power over enemies, and particu- larly the white bear, of which the Indians in these latitudes are much afraid :— others wlw infallible *See page 249. s^- o- \7U.^ ADVENTURES. 327 agdnst bairepness in women; against difficuU la- bours; and against a variety of other afflictions. In a second parcel, I found small prints ; the identical ones, which, in England, are cofnmonW^^ sold in sheets to children, but each of which wa| here transformed into a t|u^ for the cure of some evil, or obtention ra^ome deligHI :— No. 1. /*A « sailorltissing hismi^ss, on his return from " sea ;" — this, worn jupit the person of a gallant, attracted, though coh^Hed, the affections of the sex ! No. 2. " A soldier in arms ;"— this poured' a sentiment of valour into the possessor, and j^kve him tin strength of a giant ! By means of these commodflpes, many cus- tomers were ^cured tothe company; and even tho^|^j^ans,^o shortened their voyage by deal- ing wi^ us, sent forward one canoe, laden with beaver-skins, to purqjbase articles of this kind, at Cumberland House.i: J did not venture to dispute their value. . ' This pa|^of our commercial adventure comple- ted, Mr. Frobisher and myself left the remainder of our merchandise in the care of Mr. Thomas Frobisher, who was to proceed with them to Lake Arabuthcow; and, on the fourth of July, set out on our return to the Grand Portage. ^ 32§ TRAVELS A>rt) In recrossing Beaver kake, the wild obliged us to put into a ba]^ which I had not visited before. Taking my gun, I went into the woods, in search of game ^ but, l|iad hot advanced more than half a mile, when t found the country almost inaccessi- ble^y reason of masses of ro«kjjif|[|iich were scatter- ed in all directflhs : some were as large as houses, and lay as if they had l^en first thrown into the . air, and then suffered to npinto their present pos- *• t^re. By a circuitous route, I at last ascended the "^^iQQuntain, from one side of which they had fallen ; the whole body was fractured, and separated by large isms. In some places, parts of the mounlbin, of If an acre in surface, were raised above the ge- neral level. I^^as a scene for the warfare of the Titans, or for diat of Milton's ang^s ! The river^«which, when we first arrived |t Cum- berland House, had run with a swift current into the Sascatchiwaine, now ran in a contrary direc- tion, toward the lake. This was owing to the rise of water in the Sascatchiwaine, from which same cause all the lowlands were at this^me over- flowed. . Our twilight nights continued till we were to the ^uthward of Lake Winipegon. THe weather was so favourable, that we crossed that lake in six days; though, in going, it took us thirty. - - ■ ■ '*• V #• ■ -.'^yv^T' ^ w \k t6.] TtJIfcES. «329 ^^9" ?" pHii in the Lake of tl4 Woods, we saw ^feraSl^hS, >tow*M^^|j^ ^^rchfee provis^, ft^igl^^ were mudl^ ^p i^^ow^^^ stoi^, Aat some s^ge natijIi B^ tjpred MontrSal, talfen Qu6- bec, ^.^^^«*a^^^fiC^ aiid^ould certainly be ^^GrancfP^^ before w*r Je bpfore we^rrivcd there On mj remarki MM ^Ir. Frobisher, that pected Jie j&ffj^«r ( ^ colonists) had been |oing some nl_ '^"-Ma, the Indians directiy exclaimed, is the name ! # iJrt^foi^/icts."— Th from the Grand PorttJllfcdappe sly ajmrehensive iHasJ^j^^aitonm ing inlpie north.west,% "*'■ ^j!, P^' * ;rewerc ' the' Forks of the Riy§|a ll ^1!^^ J|P^^^^^»^W Wilder d-._..^ ^^^ with wnfat lattii^had had a previous acquaint ^^^>y visiting hm, he told me, that t ^'^^B^J^t ^^^ then#epeated the s|oxy we lOp^ard en the Lake of the Woods^ll«idi% that soiiief of his young men were evil inclmcd, and ^J^aatonmia (J?o«W«a/«,Bostonian8)isthename ^e Canadians des^e all the iiihabitants of the ^. ^ lilonics, now thrntTnited Staties ; and in the i£^ westj^hellngUsh traders c<>mmwl|use the French lan- "■ .1 ff-;/-> *f- 42 ^^Pl^'. -M m' .''■'«jp> m "*: 'JM.| , • ' - " ' ■ ' -"^y- ' c y'??!? M sf-.. TRAVEts, fcc. jthat tas^ia$«i tis iiiiiaed^ liireiuitdeaf to ib^ai3i^ili^Mm0 A?trfe were Fougi^ iiHportiiiiitf^ibr*ro dhe of liie likens, after ym , fetcli- ed his gun^ andjred W ui^K Hut without ^ l4 furttir accid^ at^JP our voy^e to the ^mgCy ftoii^Mch pace Nv^ pu^kued Ac 'ontr^al, where ife arrived on the fifteeh& ^ r. We found tis pix)vince deli irruption of the .cflonists, and prow ne* «^,' 1 M. Mb A f ''t ■m « ^ &.. pijf ^. r ■ *, M-^ ^\ W *. ■ ^■ •i %. ■1* &v» ;-.^ r6i ^-jt i' *■' ^3^- # iind ch- [but '^«>« 4' \f^--^^a- , ■*«'■ .'"iT, f^ tlie -^' '€, * F)«e S^ aote, for « Amfifcie," m^^^Micrwc / ^^- .•■ ^. -J . • % fc,. _ ji ,."." " , ■,., 1 ; i-^jfe. - k.*': •' 4-ki-.^:k,.^.. .