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 1 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 S 
 
 6 
 
-mm 
 
 tfffm 
 
 •; 
 
f 
 
 for; dOKfi 
 
 'itiith«iiii|%iig.tii 
 
 ralettMl 
 
 
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 ox. 
 
 m OTH£R. WQftBS, 
 
 ***^ «>„^f. wid s^ Itoiip a HMltli ; i 
 Sow a ^t. and f^ iw^c H qtMn^MterJ 
 Sow a Cnavaetar and yttn Bia» a Dost' 
 
 // gHmnurt likt m. ^ftttm^^^nmd itgvmef 
 
 MORAL i-'Itt xjfl^iii nabtiM Piayop 
 othor side 1« HMdw I^iTmIwo 
 
 Pfttlont. but we alw ki£^ to our Coit 
 He Nover Overlooks a l)H«t<die.-//« /or 
 
 WW TO AVOID THE INJURIOUS EFFECTS OF sifMlOtANI^"' 
 
 THE PRBSBNT SYSTEM OF M Vm®-ftmsking of too . 
 in«„a^-?.' ^ P*!'^^' saccharine, and fatty sutetances; aloAoIic drojlw, and 
 insufficient amount of exercise-freauently deran«a the Uv^sk' 1 woiS^Se 
 bdiou5 people, unless they ^e carefat to keep thelver atting fwely, toXSJ^ 
 oarem the use of alcoholic drinks; avoid «igiu-»,and dwaysSuato £iKdy-wS^?I 
 S^.y^Tn^'^r*;"*' porter, mild ales, port wine, dark'she^ «?^rS^ 
 liqueurv^ind brandies ?;fe all very apt to disagree; wHile li^^teldttMSI 
 or oHwhiskvkrgoIy diluted' with^ure mineS water ch^^o^^wiKtur ' 
 Inl^-S^?. r ^«*8t objectionable. ENO'S 'FRUIT sIlT' i PECULL 
 ADAPTED for any COI^STITUTIONAL WEAKNESS of OieUvw. irio 
 
 THE STOMACH AND LIVER AND THEm TR1_. 
 
 : Cutnn^w™ m"^ *° "^^ ?'''}} ^^' Suffered mudifo>m"*SfoS^ I 
 «o'S'^^ .1 ^"^"^ consulted Doctors and tried many medicinSTtit Sd 
 
 ENO'S^Frnif SAi?^ f ^i^^^PPJ conditioi,%no docS tofd ^1 
 m^u a f KJll bALT.' I acted upon his advice at once. aJid it us now n^J 
 
 LTdi if^" *°r"'*^ ^^ Its great^value C not W»t^^iTrwt' 
 My that by its use I am enabled to follow ray daily occupatiwi ^ to eniov 
 pleasures of life I have recommended KNO'S « FRtJlT S^LT'toouSaT-I 
 dear sir, yours faithfully, • TRUTH.'" '^"^w** oax-x ioqtners.--l| 
 
 ^^o?mi™JSITSALT»^..x BRANDY. "There were a few at 
 . .;. °^ ""'«i dysentiay, brought mainly on by Ul-considered devotiS^to hrandl 
 ?te"«/i>r°i^ice<i Jy the same caui«.; . ForW latS^S^to^e^by E ' 
 FRUIT SALT,' which 18 simply invaluable."— See "Coral Lands *'W I i 
 J^K^ IS MO DW»T THAT wltt» It has Been taWh to Oi* earnest stai^es 
 
 2?iSl "®S™% ^« effect of UNO'S * FftWt SAtr^S^Tdlsor 
 IIATURE'S own RBUBOT and an 0N3URPASSB0 OHbT^ " " 
 
 *«. mo, Lm, 'wnirr salt* ivorks, mnp^, ny V ik;^^ Vm^ 
 
 
 rV','- 
 
■^ »^j;w"^»?* 
 
 Z'^ e. t-f-/>, JnJ^(^-^) 
 
 bbr th« Fliyev of 
 ^m ni. We Knl 
 iy« Fair, Juit, 
 istritr to our Cost tl 
 IIUit*lEe.>-//'« /<»»•, 
 
 iw^je^ ARE BOXE 
 , —Hull 
 
 STtMOlANTS 
 
 .f>artakiii|[ of too r 
 >bolic drinks, and 
 :. 1 -would advise 
 reely, to exetdse gi 
 ate largely with wa 
 ries, sweet cbampaf^ 
 it white wines, and 
 only witli natural 
 ,T' IS PECUJLIAl 
 ■ the liver ; it pos-^H 
 lost, and PLAT ' 
 rid of woes is'u , 
 wefore NQ FAMi 
 
 BIR TRIAI^ 
 
 a Stomach and J 
 iicints, but found 
 doctor told me to 
 , and it is n<w ijea 
 veistifttiBd, and I wis 
 ation and to enjoy 
 <i.LT ' to others.— I 
 
 'here vrace a few ati 
 
 devotion to brand 
 
 sed to swear by EJ 
 
 I Lands," Vol. I. 
 
 'jM earllost stagesj 
 t would 'Othopwlso 
 LLT' upon a disoi 
 eUOUS. It Is i 
 
 THE 
 
 KLONDIKE GOLDFIELDS 
 
 AND HOW TO GET THERE 
 
 f 
 
 I 
 
Ii 
 
 I 1 
 
 <&^, 
 
"S^irsssr 
 
 MAP OF KLONDIKE DISTRICT. 
 
THE 
 
 KLONDIKE GOLDFIELDS 
 
 AND 
 
 HOW TO GET THERE 
 
 FRED. JAMES 
 
 WITH A MAP 
 
 London and New York 
 GEORGE ROUTLEDGE & SONS, Limited 
 
 1897 
 
 Jf WIyi O tiyUW>»M 
 
EDMUND IVANS, 
 
 ENGRAVtR AND PKINIER, 
 
 RACQUKT COURT, KLttT STREET, 
 
 LONDON, E.C. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Agents for Canada ..... 
 
 Alaska, JNatives of 
 
 Alcohol, Warning against . . . 
 American workmen. Protection of . , 
 Auriferous lands, Situation of . . . 
 Auriferous lands, Climate and temperature of 
 
 Bonanza Creek 
 
 Canadian Pacific Railway, Charges of 
 
 Chilkoot Pass 
 
 Claims, Distance of, from Dawson City . 
 Climate, Dr. Dall's Report on . , , 
 
 Clothing, Requisite 
 
 Colonist Cars, on Canadian Pacific Railway 
 Constantine, Inspector, Reports of . 
 Dall, Dr., Geologist, his Report 
 Dawson, Dr. George, Extract from Report of 
 Dawson City, Description of, and life in . 
 De Windt, Mr. Harry, Letter of, to Times 
 
 I^iggings, Prices at 
 
 Distances, Juneau to Forty-Mile Creek . 
 
 Dogs, Necessity for, Cost of . 
 
 Domville, CoL, Statement of . 
 
 Fort Cudahy .... 
 
 Fort Selkirk .... 
 
 Forty- Mile Creek . 
 
 Higgins, Capt, Letter of. 
 
 Hotel Rates at Vancouver and Seattle 
 
 87 
 
 49 
 
 71 
 
 75 
 z 
 
 4 
 
 9 
 
 37.84 
 42 
 
 72 
 
 79 
 
 85 
 
 37 
 
 28-32 
 
 78 
 24 
 65-72 
 46 
 61 
 
 47 
 73 
 34 
 40 
 4 
 26 
 22 
 
 48 
 
 179520 
 
 <-i 
 
ll'IW..»l,ilJ- 
 
 mm 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Hotel at Dawson City, Amusing description of. 
 
 Juneau overland route . • • . 
 
 Klondike, Situation of . , , 
 
 Liquor traffic 
 
 Map of Klondike District 
 
 Mackay, Mr. J. W., Advice of, to intending pro- 
 spectors 
 
 Miners, Statement of, to Seattle Intelligencer 
 
 Mining, Method of, in winter . 
 
 Moss, Frank, miner. Statement of . 
 
 North American Trading Company . 
 
 Ogilvie, Mr. Wm., Reports of. 
 
 Overland route, Approximate cost of 
 
 Pennsylvanian labour law, Preamble of . 
 
 Plan of campaign, SJuggestions for . 
 
 Potter, Mr., Inspector, Extract from the Eleventh 
 United States Alaskan Census Report 
 
 Poor Men's Mines 
 
 Portland^ ss., Narrative of miners returning on 
 
 Proposed Canadian Labour Act, Preamble of 
 
 Property, Safety of, in Dawson City . 
 
 Provisions required, Nature of. 
 
 Regulations for passengers on C.P.R. Railway 
 
 Skagway Bay 
 
 Southern route to mines . . , , 
 
 Stores, list of what should be taken . 
 
 Strickland, Inspector, C.M.P., Report of . 
 
 Taxes levied by Dominion Government . 
 
 TitneSy Extract from, on Dawson City 
 
 Vancouver 
 
 White Pass 
 
 Wills, A. E., Assistant-Surgeon, Medical Report of 
 
 Yukon River, and route by . . 
 
 rAGB 
 
 . 78 
 
 . 53.83 
 
 3 
 
 13 
 
 Frontispiece 
 
 60 
 
 15 
 81 
 67 
 
 39 
 33 
 84 
 76 
 
 82 
 
 35 
 
 15 
 76 
 
 77 
 60 
 
 84 
 
 44 
 
 14 
 
 85 
 
 13 
 86 
 
 69 
 41 
 
 45 
 68 
 
 2, 40 
 
FAGB 
 
 . 78 
 
 . 53.83 
 
 3 
 
 13 
 
 Frontispiece 
 
 pro- 
 
 60 
 
 15 
 
 81 
 
 67 
 
 39 
 5.33 
 84 
 76 
 82 
 
 I 
 
 35 
 
 15 
 76 
 
 77 
 60 
 
 84 
 
 44 
 
 14 
 
 85 
 
 13 
 86 
 
 69 
 41 
 
 45 
 68 
 
 2, 40 
 
 THE 
 
 KLONDIKE GOLD-FIELDS, 
 
 AND HOW TO GET THERE. 
 
 The great auriferous lands of the North-West 
 roughly occupy the district lying between the Mac- 
 kenzie River and Rocky Mountains on the East, the 
 Porcupine and Rat Rivers on the North, the 60th 
 Parallel on the South, and the 145th W. Meridian on 
 the West. 
 
 The Western boundary between Canadian and 
 American territory runs in a line parallel to the 140th 
 W. Meridian from Demarcation Point on the shores 
 of the Arctic Ocean to Mt St. Elias, the highest vol- 
 canic peak, 18,000 ft. high, situated a little north-west 
 of the point of intersection of the 140th W. Meridian 
 and the 60th N. Parallel. 
 
 In all this district, gold has been known to exist, 
 for several years p;'.st, but it was generally thought, 
 not in sufficient quantity, or so easily worked, as to be 
 worth the trouble of getting. In the Report on the 
 Population and Resources of Alaska in 1890 by l^lr. 
 Potter, the U.S. Gov. Agent, we find: "Mining cannot 
 be called a success on the Yukon up to the present 
 time. Sine J the first excitement in 18S6 there have 
 been few instances of individuals taking out of the 
 country more than 2,000 dols. for two or even three 
 seasons of privation and hardship ; though there 
 
 have been, however, isolated cases of more being 
 
 B 
 
a THE KLONDIKE GOLDFIELDS, 
 
 taken out" The Report goes on to state that miners 
 work on prospects and are heavy debtors to the stores. 
 The prices rule very high at these stores, but are 
 barely remunerative, owing to the difficulty and cost 
 of transport, which is carried on chiefly (on the 
 Yukon) by the stern-wheel steamers of the Alaska 
 Commercial Company. The miner finds great ob- 
 stacles in the hardships of the road to prospects, the 
 short season and the frozen grounds ; and although the 
 niiners have made an entrance to the country, and 
 large areas have been run over, only placer and bar- 
 diggings have been found, but no gold-bearing quartz 
 ledges. " Unless," says Mr. Potter, " some rich de- 
 velopments should yet be made, the mining interests 
 will never assume very large proportions." 
 
 This Report of course refers specifically to that dis- 
 trict of the Yukon within American jurisdiction, 
 that is, Alaska — and there is no doubt the Alaskan 
 miners have crept onwards towards the headwaters 
 of the great river until they overran the boundary line 
 between American and Canadian territory, and found 
 themselves in the district indicated above. 
 
 The two principal sources of the Great Yukon are 
 Lewis and Pelly Rivers in the south, and the Porcu- 
 pine River in the north. Besides these, innumerable 
 smaller rivers and creeks go to swell the waters of the 
 Yukon, and render it a noble stream navigable for 
 2,500 miles from its embouchure in Norton Sound, an 
 inlet of Behring's Sea. It is deltoid at its mouth, 
 and its northern arm, the Kwichpak, affords the best 
 entrance for navigating purposes ; and it is through 
 this waterway, that the many who will rush to this 
 
mmm 
 
 te that miners 
 s to the stores, 
 itores, but are 
 culty and cost 
 liefly (on the 
 of the Alaska 
 nds great ob- 
 
 prospects, the 
 id although the 
 
 country, and 
 )lacer and bar- 
 bearing quartz 
 'some rich de- 
 fining interests 
 is." 
 
 illy to that dis- 
 m jurisdiction, 
 bt the Alaskan 
 the headwaters 
 e boundary line 
 itory, and found 
 ove. 
 rreat Yukon are 
 
 and the Porcu- 
 :se, innumerable 
 he waters of the 
 n navigable for 
 orton Sound, an 
 i at its mouth, 
 affords the best 
 id it is through 
 vill rush to this 
 
 AND HOW TO GET J HERE. 3 
 
 new Eldorado, will find an entrance jealously guarded 
 from November to May by the grip of King Frost. 
 
 The contingency suggested by Mr. Potter's Report 
 has happened. Towards the end of last year rumours 
 of the discovery of new placer mines of extraordinary 
 richness, reached the outside world, in a letter from 
 the Dominion Surveyor, who was stationed at Fort 
 Cadahy for the purpose of defining the Alaska boun- 
 dary. In this letter he states that 3^800 was obtained 
 in two days from the Bonanza Creek which runs into 
 a tributary of the Yukon, called by the Innuk or 
 Esquimaux Indians, Tron Diuck (Plenty of Fish)*, 
 and mispronounced by the miners Klondike — spelt 
 also Klondyke and Klondak. The Bonanza Creek 
 possesses five branches, all of which are exceedingly 
 rich in gold. At once time, Uncle Sam, who is never 
 above laying claim to anything lying handy, was 
 inclined to assert that the district lay within his juris- 
 diction, but it is beyond a doubt that the whole area 
 lies well within the boundary of the Dominion of 
 Canada, the Government of which has already taken 
 steps to insure law and order by drafting to the spot 
 a number of their admirable Mounted Police, and 
 should occasion arise these can be, and will be, 
 rapidly reinforced. 
 
 I think I may safely say, you will search in vain 
 for any definite names in ordinary existing maps. 
 To the west of the great Mackenzie River, the country 
 is unmapped, unknown save to the hunter or trader 
 in-pelts, and the miner. While South-East Alaska is 
 the resort of th*. summer tourist and the Alpine 
 • Another authority gives the meaning as Reindeer 
 
 i 
 

 4 THE KLONDIKE GOLDFIELDS, 
 
 climber, the great stretch of country north of British 
 Columbia, extending over hundreds of thousands of 
 square miles, is terra incognita. It is true you will 
 find scattered here and there names like Rampart 
 House, Fort Cudahy, Fort Reliance, Fort Selkirk, 
 and so forth, but between these lie hundreds of miles 
 of territory, difficult to traverse, almost impossible to 
 dwell in, save for robust men inured to toil and hard- 
 ship and extremes of amperature. 
 
 Fort Selkirk stood at the juncture of Pelly and 
 Lewis Rivers, and was the head-quarters of the Hud- 
 son Bay Company in that district — and is now a 
 deserted ruin, or was two years ago. Little did the 
 hardy hunters, who faced the rigours of the winter, 
 dream of the gold lying in the districts all around 
 them. No doubt they found riches enough in the 
 splendid furs so much more easily obtained then, than 
 now. In has been asserted in some articles recently 
 appearing that the temperature in the newly-discov- 
 ered region falls to 80 degrees below zero, but this is, 
 I think, an exaggeration. The coast temperature 
 varies from 70 depjrees Fahr. in summer to 40 or 50 
 degrees below zero in winter, and the snowfall varies 
 from 3 to 5 feet on the level — while the late summer 
 and fall are usually stormy and wet. Navigation is 
 closed to the outside for seven months in the year by 
 heavy ice on the sea, and as I stated before, the 
 Yukon is unnavigable from Nov. to May. The com- 
 parative mildness of the coast temperature arises 
 from the influence of the warm stream of the Kuro 
 Suvo of Japan — the Gulf Stream of the Pacific — 
 which extends under the title of the North Pacific 
 
rtb of British 
 thousands of 
 true you will 
 like Rampart 
 Fort Selkirk, 
 dreds of miles 
 impossible to 
 toil and hard- 
 
 of Pelly and 
 rs of the Hud- 
 -and is now a 
 
 Little did the 
 
 of the winter, 
 icts all around 
 
 enough in the 
 ained then, than 
 articles recently 
 le newly-discov- 
 zero, but this is, 
 ist temperature 
 ner to 40 or 50 
 i snowfall varies 
 the late summer 
 . Navigation is 
 IS in the year by 
 ated before, the 
 May. The com- 
 uperature arises 
 am of the Kuro 
 of the Pacific — 
 [le North Pacific 
 
 AND HOW TO GET THERE. 5 
 
 Drift Current to the shores of Alaska, according to 
 Krusensee. In the interior the climate is drier and 
 warmer in summer, reaching 80 to 85 degrees. In 
 the winter the thermometer frequently stands at 60 
 degrees below zero. The snowfall is excessive, but 
 since there is less wind than on the coast, it does not 
 pile in paralyzing drifts as in the gullys and valleys 
 there. 
 
 The absence of humidity, however, makes the 
 intense cold more bearable than it would be other- 
 wise, and only wants a little forethought to be com- 
 bated successfully. With the narratives of Franklin, 
 Parry and others before him, Nansen was not only 
 able to exist during the long Arctic night in the 
 "Fram," but he found existence enjoyable — because 
 before he started he sat down and counted the cost ; 
 and that is precisely what my readers must do before 
 they enter on the struggle with the wilderness for the 
 red gold ' ~t Nature hides, and only yields to man 
 after much toil and labour, and infinite patience and 
 sacrifice — but none want to enter on the fight unless 
 he is assured that spoils are to be won. And here 
 I can only adduce evidence which each intending 
 prospector must weigh and estimate for himself 
 Such evidence of the wealth existing, method of 
 seeking it, surroundings of the spot, means of reach- 
 ing, cost of living, etc., as I have been able to collect 
 I place before my readers. 
 
 Naturally one turns first and instinctively to oflficial 
 sources, and what immediately follows is extracted 
 from the Canadian Blue Book containing the Report 
 of Mr. William Ogilvie, Dominion Land Surveyor, 
 
6 THE KLONDIKE GOLDFJELDS, 
 
 who accompanied the Expedition sent by the Minister 
 of the Interior under Dr. Geo. Dawson, to explore 
 that portion of the North- West Territory drained by 
 the Yukon. As Mr. Ogiivie was engaged for two 
 years in the district, he had ample opportunity for 
 judging its possibilities. He it was who named the 
 White Pass, which bids fair to become the chief road 
 to the auriferous country. He says : — 
 
 "While at Juneau I heard reports of a low pass 
 from the head of Chilkoot Inlet to the headwaters of 
 the Lewes River. During the time I was at the head 
 of Taiya Inlet, I made inquiries about it and found 
 that there was such a pass ; but could learn nothing 
 definite about it from either whites or Indians^ As 
 Capt. Moore, who accompanied me, was very anxious 
 to go through it, and as the reports of the Taiya Pass 
 indicated that no waggon-road or railroad could ever 
 be built through it, while the new pass appeared, 
 from what little knowledge I could get of it, to be 
 much lower and possibly feasible for a waggon-road, 
 I determined to send the captain by that way, if I 
 could get an Indian to accompany him. This I found 
 would be difficult to do. None of the Chilkoots 
 appeared to know anything of the pass, and I con- 
 cluded that they wished to keep its existence and 
 condition a secret. The Tagish or Stick Indians, as 
 the interior Indians are locally called, are afraid to 
 do anything in opposition to the wishes of the Chil- 
 koots, so it was difficult to get any of them to join 
 Capt. Moore ; but after much talk and encourage- 
 ment from the v/hites around, one of them, named 
 'Jim,' was induced to go. He had been through this 
 
S". 
 
 he Minister 
 to explore 
 drained by 
 
 ed for two 
 
 ortunity for 
 named the 
 
 e chief road 
 
 a low pass 
 eadwaters of 
 s at the head 
 it and found 
 earn nothing 
 [ndianst As 
 very anxious 
 e Taiya Pass 
 id could ever 
 iss appeared, 
 t of it, to be 
 waggon-road, 
 hat way, if I 
 
 This I found 
 :he Chilkoots 
 s, and I con- 
 ixistence and 
 ck Indians, as 
 
 are afraid to 
 s of the Chil- 
 
 them to join 
 id encourage- 
 
 them, named 
 a through this 
 
 AND HOW TO GET THERE. 7 
 
 pass before and proved reliable and useful. I have 
 named this pass 'White Pass,' in honour of the late 
 Hon. Thomas White, Minister of the Interior, under 
 whose authority the expedition was organized." 
 
 The transport work m these regions is done by 
 Indians, and they appear to have given Mr. Ogilvie 
 considerable trouble. Their laziness and avarice he 
 is constantly reverting to : — " Of all the Indians who 
 came to the summit with packs, only four or five 
 could be induced to remain and pack down to lake, 
 although I was paying tiiem at the rate of 4 dols. 
 per 100 lb. After one trip down only two men 
 re^iained, and they only in hopes of stealing some- 
 thing. One of them appropriated a pair of boots, 
 and was much surprised to find that he had to pay 
 
 for them on being settled with I had 
 
 with me a white man who lived at the head of the 
 inlet with a Tagish Indian woman. This man had 
 a good deal of influence with the Tagish tribe ; . 
 
 . . and I sent him to the head of the inlet to try 
 and induce the Tagish Indians to undertake the 
 transportation, offering them five dollars per hundred 
 pounds. . . . The Tagish are little more than 
 slaves to the more powerful coast tribes, and are in 
 constant dread of offending them in any way. One of 
 the privileges which the coast tribes claim is the exclu- 
 sive right to all work on the coast, or in its vicinity, 
 and the Tagish are afraid to dispute this claim. 
 When my white man asked the Tagish to come over 
 and pack, they objected on the grounds mentioned. 
 After considerable ridicule of their cowardice . . . 
 nine of them came over, and in fear and trembling 
 
 ,1^ 
 
8 
 
 THE KLONDIKE GOLDFIELDS, 
 
 began to pack down the lake. After they were at 
 work for a few days some of the Chilkoots came out 
 and also started to work. Soon I had quite a nur ' fvc 
 at work, and was getting my stuff down quite i st. 
 But this good fortune was not to continue. Owing 
 to the prevailing wet, cold weather on the mountains, 
 and the difficulty of getting through the soft, wet 
 snow, the Indians began to quit work for a daj' or 
 two at a time, and to gamble with one another for 
 the wages already earned. Many of them wanted 
 to be paid in full ; but this I positively refused, 
 knowing that to do so was to have them all apply for 
 their earnings and leave me until necessity compelled 
 them to go to work again. I once for all made them 
 distinctly understand that I would not pay any of 
 them until the whole of the stuff was down. As 
 many of them had already earned from twelve to 
 fifteen dollars each, to lose which was a serious matter 
 to them, they reluctantly resumed work and kept at 
 it until all was delivered." 
 
 On the subject of mining in 1887 Mr, Ogilvie had 
 little of a cheerful nature to impart. Coal was found, 
 but not in very large quantities ; while reports con- 
 cerning gold were vague and contradictory. But, 
 writing at Cudahy in the winter of 1895-96, he has 
 information of a much more definite character to 
 impart : — " There are many mining camps now in the 
 country ; and, besides, the miners find it pays well to 
 have what they call * drift ' — that is, quarry out the 
 frozen gravel during the winter, pile it up, and wash it 
 during the spring and summer. . . , Coarse gold 
 and excellent prospects have been found on the Hoota- 
 
7, 
 
 AND HOW TO GET THERE, 
 
 y were at 
 
 ;s came out 
 
 e a nur * ';r 
 
 quite i St. 
 
 ue. Owing 
 
 mountains, 
 
 le soft, wet 
 
 or a day or 
 
 another for 
 
 lem wanted 
 
 rely refused, 
 
 all apply for 
 
 ty compelled 
 
 1 made them 
 
 pay any of 
 
 s down. As 
 
 )m twelve to 
 
 lerious matter 
 
 : and kept at 
 
 r. Ogilvie had 
 )al was found, 
 ; reports con- 
 dictory. But, 
 I95-96, he has 
 
 character to 
 ips now in the 
 t pays well to 
 uarry out the 
 ip, and wash it 
 
 Coarse gold 
 on the Hoota- 
 
 linqua (Teslin), and there will likely be a rush there 
 next spring. . . . They (Glacier and Miller 
 Creeks) are the two richest creeks yet found on the 
 Yukon, and are both tributaries of Sixty-Mile River. 
 Both creeks are fully located and worked, each claim 
 being 500 ft along the creek and the width of the 
 valley or creek-bed. There are nearly 100 claims, all 
 of which pay well. One on Miller Creek, I under- 
 stand, will yield seventy-five to eighty thousand 
 dollars this season, and the owner will net, it is said, 
 between 40,000 and 50,000 dollars. . . . There 
 are many other creeks in this vicinity yet to be pro- 
 spected, and some will, I have no doubt, pay well. 
 Gold is found all along the valley of Sixty-Mile 
 River, and under more favourable circumstances, both 
 mercantile and climatic, it would yield good results to 
 large enterprises. The mercantile conditions will im- 
 prove ; the climate is a serious difficulty, but will be 
 surmounted in time, I believe." 
 
 Early in September last year Mr. Ogilvie reported 
 an important discovery of gold on a creek called 
 Bonanza Creek, which is an affluent of the river known 
 as the Klondike. From Mr. Ogilvie's reports it is 
 evident that the prospect appears to him an exceed- 
 ingly rosy one : — 
 
 " I may say that every report that comes in from 
 Bonanza Creek is more encouraging than the last. 
 Prospecting has only begun, and up to date of mail- 
 ing (November 22nd, 1896) very rich prospects have 
 been found on the few claims prospected on ; from 
 one dollar to the pan of dirt up to twelve dollars are 
 reported, and no bedrock found yet This means 
 
lO 
 
 THE KLONDIKE GOLDFIELDS, 
 
 from icxx) dols. to 12,000 dols. per day per man 
 sluicing. . . . On some of the claims prospected 
 the pay dirt is of great extent and very rich. One 
 man told me yesterday that he washed out a single 
 pan of dirt on one of the claims on Bonanza and 
 found 14 dols. 25c. in it. Of course, that may be an 
 exceptionally rich pan ; but 5 dols. to 7 dols. per 
 pan is the average on that claim reported, with five 
 feet of pay dirt and the width yet undertermined, 
 but it is known to be 30 feet ; even at that figure the 
 result at nine to ten pans to the cubic foot and 500 
 feet long — nearly 4,000,000 dols. at 5 dols. per pan ; 
 one-fourth of this would be enormous." 
 
 And here is another extract taken from an equally 
 reliable source, which seems to indicate that reports 
 as to the wealth of the Klondike have scarcely been 
 exaggerated : — 
 
 " The reports which have lately come to hand con- 
 cerning the richness of these claims seem absolutely 
 fabulous. Pans of dirt yielding 207 dols., 243 dols., 
 319 dols., are, of course, most exceptional, but the 
 average returns on the ground now being worked 
 vary from i dol. to 12 dols. per pan, and at nine pans 
 to the cubic foot, 5 ft of pay-dirt, and the width from 
 30 ft to 100 ft, a 500 ft claim would yield, at the 
 lowest estimate (30 ft), from 675,000 dols. to 8,100,000 
 dols. to the fortunate owner. 
 
 "These pans are about 18 in. in circumference and 
 4 in. to 5 in. in depth, and such phenomenal richness 
 in so small a portion of gravel would lead one to 
 suppose that the quartz matrix cannot be far distant 
 This was the supposition of the miners who washed 
 
\s» 
 
 AND HOW TO GET THERE, 
 
 II 
 
 \y per man 
 prospected 
 rich. One 
 lout a single 
 tonanza and 
 ^t may be an 
 7 dols. per 
 |ed, with five 
 idertermined, 
 lat figure the 
 foot and 500 
 ols. per pan ; 
 
 )m an equally 
 e that reports 
 scarcely been 
 
 i to hand con- 
 :em absolutely 
 ols., 243 dols., 
 ional, but the 
 being worked 
 i at nine pans 
 :he width from 
 [ yield, at the 
 Is. to 8,100,000 
 
 umference and 
 nenal richness 
 i lead one to 
 be far distant 
 s who washed 
 
 the gravels of Williams and Lightning Creeks at the 
 time of the Cariboo excitement in the early sixties, 
 but no rich quartz lodes were discovered then or sub- 
 sequently, causing many to believe that the original 
 ledges had been disintegrated and entirely pulverized 
 by the action of the water. From the latest official 
 reports and more recent letters from private sources 
 it is established beyond doubt that in these high 
 northern latitudes, on the outskirts of the Arctic 
 circle, are found some of the most highly auriferous 
 deposits that have yet been discovered. Had the 
 placer discoveries on the lower reaches of the Yukon 
 occurred in a more accessible region, and where the 
 natural conditions gave better opportunities for speedy 
 development, the country would have been thronged 
 with thousands of eager gold-seekers twenty years 
 ago. Bonanza Creek alone is computed to have 
 room for 1,000 claims each 500 ft. in length, and in 
 breadth extending the full width of the valley, and 
 each successive creek from Bonanza to the sources of 
 the Klondak, including ' Too Much Gold ' Creek, 
 where the miners humorously assert the ' dust ' is so 
 rich that it has to be mixed with dirt before they can 
 wash it, will furnish claims to some of the thousands 
 who are now rushing into the mines from the Western 
 States, regardless of the grave possibility of a dearth 
 of food during the eight months of semi-darkness 
 which is approaching. Leaving the Klondak itself, 
 which will pour many millions of gold into the world's 
 treasury, there are other gold-bearing tributaries of 
 the Yukon — Indian Creek, Stewart River, with its 
 many branches to the south, in which prospecting has 
 
13 
 
 THE KLONDIKE GOLDFIELDS, 
 
 been done and good indications found. Rich pay- 
 dirt has been reported on all the streams joining Pelly 
 River, and on the Hootalinque, in a direct line with 
 these discoveries. Further south are the Carsian 
 Goldfields, which will be developed by an English 
 company under a charter recently granted by the 
 British Columbian Government. 
 
 "It will be seen, on reference to a map, that there 
 is thus a gold belt along the easterly watershed of 
 the Yukon of indefinite width, and over 300 miles in 
 length, all of which is in British territory. On the 
 western side of the Yukon, from Fort Selkirk to the 
 headwaters of the Mackenzie, so little prospecting 
 has been done that it is not possible to state definitely 
 that the creeks are gold-bearing, though coarse gold 
 has been washed on a creek for forty miles below 
 Selkirk. Lode mining will not be undertaken until 
 the country has been much more opened up, and 
 although copper ledges of value are said to exist on 
 White River, and good quartz in the hills round 
 Bonanza Creek, it is open to doubt, unless they prove 
 to be of extreme richness, whether they will ever be 
 worked in face of so many natural obstacles. Cariboo 
 was practically deserted on account of the inclemency 
 of the climate and the excessive cost of supplies as 
 soon as the easily-accessible gold had been stripped 
 from the surface, although it was openly recognized 
 that the deep gravels contained the richest and 
 coarsest dust. In a letter now before the writer, 
 dated from Circle City, and penned by a typical 
 Western miner, the extreme hardships incurred by 
 gold seekers in those latitudes are apparent if we 
 
>^. 
 
 AND HOW TO GET THERE, 
 
 13 
 
 Rich pay- 
 oining Pelly 
 ;ct line with 
 the Carsian 
 an English 
 nted by the 
 
 P. 
 
 that there 
 
 watershed of 
 
 300 miles in 
 
 )ry. On the 
 
 elkirk to the 
 
 prospecting 
 
 :ate definitely 
 
 1 coarse gold 
 
 miles below 
 
 ertaken until 
 
 zned up, and 
 
 id to exist on 
 
 z hills round 
 
 iss they prove 
 
 ^ will ever be 
 
 Lcles. Cariboo 
 
 le inclemency 
 
 of supplies as 
 
 been stripped 
 
 ly recognized 
 
 : richest and 
 
 e the writer, 
 
 by a typical 
 
 ; incurred by 
 
 )parent if we 
 
 read between the lines. The trading companies — 
 both American — give no credit to those working in 
 the remote creeks. He came in over the trail from 
 Juneau, thence by water to Dyea, and from there by 
 sleigh to the river — waited until the ice broke, built a 
 boat with a whipsaw and hatchet, and floated down 
 to the diggings. All supplies have to be packed on 
 the back over the trails, unless the miner can afford 
 to buy dogs, at 1 the cost of feeding these animals is 
 very considerable, for salmon is unobtainable from 
 the Indians ; bacon is given, costing is. Sd. per lb. 
 In the remoter camps flour fetches 48 dols. per 100 lb., 
 cigars 2J., a glass of whisky the same. The winter 
 lasts eight months, during which time, except for the 
 Northern Lights, there is semi-darkness. In the 
 middle of summer they enjoy twenty-four hours of 
 sunshine, and myriads of mosquitoes. The tempera- 
 ture in winter is as low as 80 degrees below zero. 
 The ground is continually frozen a few feet from the 
 surface, and fires are ei.iployed to thaw the pay-dirt 
 prior to washing. It has been officially stated that 
 timber is already becoming scarce in some parts. It 
 is obvious that in face of such difficulties gold-washing 
 is a slow and laborious process, and at the present 
 cost of supplies, unless the gravel is exceedingly rich, 
 they cannot afford to work it 
 
 " There is an urgent necessity for steps to be taken 
 by the Government to regulate the liquor traffic which 
 has already demoralised the Indians in the vicinity 
 of the camps, and may lead to serious trouble between 
 American and Canadian miners, the former being in 
 the majority, and containing among their number 
 
 4 
 
WW—— 
 
 14 
 
 THE KLONDIKE GOLDFIELDS, 
 
 many well-known desperadoes from the Western 
 States. Recent reports state that feeling already 
 runs high between the two nationalities, and it is 
 high time that the police force was considerably 
 strengthened, unless it is desired that some of the 
 worst scenes of the '49 excitement should be re- 
 enacted in these wilds. A southern entrance to the 
 Klondak mines should be constructed as soon as 
 possible for many reasons. It would traverse British 
 territory, reduce the price of food supplies, and pre- 
 vent the possibility of a famine. There would be a 
 saving in distance of fully 2,000 miles between 
 Klondak and Vancouver, and the Government could 
 easily reimburse itself for its outlay by levying a 
 small toll on freight and bullion. The Dominion 
 Government was recently asked to grant a charter 
 for the development of this district to an English 
 syndicate. The two American trading companies 
 already referred to, have a practical monopoly of 
 the entire trade of these goldfields at present, and 
 should an English company obtain a monopoly with 
 a shorter and cheaper route, the miner might not be 
 much better off. There are two routes — one vid the 
 Chilcot Pass, and the other through the White Pass — 
 which, if properly opened up by wealthy English 
 companies under competent management, the result- 
 ing competition would be of advantage to the miner, 
 but there would be ample margin of profit to pay 
 handsome dividends to the shareholders. It may be 
 broadly laid down that in the present state of the 
 country the only ventures in which English capital 
 can be embarked with any probable chance of remu- 
 
he Western 
 ling already 
 ;s, and it is 
 considerably 
 some of the 
 lould be re- 
 irance to the 
 as soon as 
 ELverse British 
 lies, and pre- 
 e would be a 
 iles between 
 rnment could 
 by levying a 
 he Dominion 
 ant a charter 
 o an English 
 fig companies 
 monopoly of 
 ; present, and 
 nonopoly with 
 might not be 
 s — one vid the 
 White Pass— 
 :althy English 
 ent, the result- 
 e to the miner, 
 ■ profit to pay 
 rs. It may be 
 [It state of the 
 English capital 
 lancc of remu- 
 
 AND HOW TO GET THERE. 
 
 IS 
 
 nerative results are those which combine trading and 
 transportation, and even here, so rugged is the country 
 and so great will be the cost of building and main- 
 taining waggon roads, bridges, scows, etc., that it will 
 require men of exceptional ability to successfully 
 conduct the affairs of such an enterprise," 
 
 The following is taken from the issue of July 17th 
 of the Seattle Post Intelligencer, published in Seattle, 
 a city of nearly 43,000 inhabitants, in Washington, 
 U.S.A., from whence steamers ply to JuneaU; Dutch 
 Harbour, and St. Michael, places of which I shall 
 have to speak later. The correspondent of The 
 Intelligencer boarded the ss. Portland at Seattle on 
 its return from St. Michael's, carrying miners bound 
 for home after z visit to the Klondike Goldfields : — 
 
 "At three o'clock this morning the steamship 
 Portland, from St. Michael's for i;tattle, passed up 
 Sound with more than a ton of solid gold on board 
 and 6Z passengers. In the captain's cabin are three 
 chests and a large safe filled with the precious 
 nuggets. The metal is worth nearly 700,000 dols., 
 and the most of it was taicen out of the ground in less 
 than thre(i months of last winter. In size the nuggets 
 range from the size of a pea to a guinea hen's ^g%. 
 Of ♦•he 68 miners aboard hardly a man has less than 
 7,000 dols., and one or two have more than 100,000 
 dols. in yellow nuggets, 
 
 " One peculiar feature to be noticed is that the 
 big strikes were made by tenderfeet, while the old 
 and experienced miners of many years' experience 
 are suffering indescribable hardship and privation 
 in Alaska and the North- West Territory, and have 
 
 . '»><ii?|- -^ 
 
mmm 
 
 m 
 
 i6 
 
 THE KLONDIKE GOLDFIELDS, 
 
 only a few thousand dollars to show for their 
 labour. 
 
 "Fortune seemed to smile on the inexperienced 
 men who went into the mining districts last year, as 
 nearly all of them were the most fortunate. The 
 stories they tell seem too incredulous and far beyond 
 belief. Instances are noted where single individuals 
 have taken out, in two months and a half, gold to 
 the value of over 150,000 dols. 
 
 " Clarence Berry, of Fresno, Cal., went to the 
 Yukon in 1890 and prospected several vears without 
 success. He returned home last autumn, was 
 married, and took his bride to the Klondike last 
 November. He is now on the Portland with 
 150,000 dols., the result of a winter's work and 
 fortune's smile. 
 
 " Frank Phiscator, of Baroda, Mich., is another 
 lucky miner. He went to the Klondike last autumn, 
 and is now returning with 96,027 dols., having worked 
 two claims with nine men three months, and he still 
 owns the claim. He was one of the original dis- 
 coverers of the Eldorado district. 
 
 "Although most of the passengers are returning 
 home with plenty of gold, they all advise and urge 
 people who contemplate going to the Yukon not to 
 think of taking in less than one ton of grub and 
 plenty of clothes. While it is a poor man's country, 
 yet the hardships and privations to be encountered 
 by inexperienced persons unused tc frontier life is 
 certain to result in much suffering during the winters. 
 They should go prepared with at least a year's 
 supplies. 
 
■■ 
 
 IV for their 
 
 lexperienced 
 last year, as 
 inate. The 
 d far beyond 
 e individuals 
 half, gold to 
 
 went to the 
 vears without 
 autumn, was 
 tClondike last 
 ''ortland with 
 r's work and 
 
 1., is another 
 I last autumn, 
 laving worked 
 IS, and he still 
 e original dis- 
 
 are returning 
 vise and urge 
 Yukon not to 
 L of grub and 
 man's country, 
 36 encountered 
 frontier life is 
 ing the winters, 
 least a year's 
 
 AND HOW TO GET THERE, 
 
 11 
 
 "The rush to the Klondike region commenced 
 late last year, and the claims were staked out and 
 worked all winter. Labour was worth 15 dols. a 
 day last winter. Flour sold for 60 dols. a sack, and 
 other provisions were proportionately high. Some of 
 the mine owners attempted to lower the wages to 
 10 dols. without success. By burning the ground 
 to thaw the gravel, which was hoisted up about twelve 
 feet to the dumps, where it was sluiced and washed 
 in the spring, miners were able to work during the 
 entire winter. In the early part of last month the 
 thermometer ran up to 85 degrees in the shade, and 
 in January it was 58 degrees below zero. 
 
 " The steamer Portland was reported passing Cape 
 Flattery at 4.30 o'clock yesterday afternoon. The 
 news despatches from San Francisco announcing the 
 arrival of the Excelsior at that port with many 
 miners and a large quantity of gold has created a 
 public demand for the latest and most authentic 
 news from the goldfields of Alaska. 
 
 " Realising the impossibility of the Portland arriving 
 in Seattle before 8 or 9 o'clock this morning, the 
 Post Intelligencer telegraphed to Manager Libby, of 
 the Puget Sound Tugboat Company, at Port Towns- 
 end, and chartered the tug Sea Lion (Captain C. W. 
 Sprague) to intercept the Portland in the Straits, so 
 that this paper's representative could interview the 
 returning miners and lay their stories before the 
 public at the earliest moment. 
 
 ''At 2 o'clock this morning the Portland was 
 
 stopped in the middle of the Straits, abreast of Fort 
 
 Angeles, by the Sea Lion. As the reporter went 
 
 C 
 
 J 
 
'! 
 
 sBsmmmmm 
 
 i8 
 
 THE KLONDIKE GOLDFIELDS, 
 
 over the steamer's side, and was met by Captain 
 Kidston, a crowd of miners gathered about, eager to 
 hear the latest local news. Entering the captain's 
 cabin, the skipper pointed to a corner in which was 
 piled three boxes and a large safe. 
 
 " ' There, you see those boxes and that safe, well, 
 they contain in round figures about 700,000 dols. 
 in gold, and that metal weighs nearly a ton and a 
 half/ was the captain's response to the reporter's 
 question as to the amount of gold that was on board. 
 He continued — 
 
 " * Out of the 68 passengers there is hardly a man 
 on board who has less than 5,000 dols., and one or 
 two have over 100,000 dols.* 
 
 " The captain then went below and awakened one 
 or two of his passengers, who came to the cabin and 
 chatted a few moments about the Klondike and its 
 mines. 
 
 " Clarence Berry is regarded as the luckiest miner 
 in the Klondike. With a miner it is all luck, nothing 
 else. Ten months ago Mr. Berry was a poor miner, 
 and to-day he is in Seattle on his way to his home in 
 Fresno, Cal., with 130,000 dols. in gold nuggets. 
 He said, rather modestly — 
 
 " • Yes, I've been rather fortunate. Last winter I 
 took out 130,000 dols. in 30 box lengths. A box 
 length is 12 by 15 feet, and in one length I found 
 10,000 dollars. Another time, the second largest 
 nugget ever found in the Yukon was taken out of my 
 claim; it weighed 13 ounces, and was worth 231 
 dols.' 
 
 " ' I have known men to take out 1,000 ciols. a day 
 
AND HOW TO GET THERE, 
 
 19 
 
 30 dols. a day 
 
 from a drift claim. Of course, the gold was found in 
 pockets, and those finds, you can rest assured, were 
 very scarce.' 
 
 '* ' I would not advise a man to take in an outfit that 
 would cost less than 500 dols. He must expect to 
 be disappointed, and the chances are that he may 
 prospect for some years without finding a paying 
 claim, and again he may be lucky enough to strike it 
 rich.' 
 
 " 'The country is wild, rough, and full of hardships 
 for those unused to the rigors of A ctic winters. If 
 a man makes a fortune he is liable to earn it by 
 severe hardship and sufferings. But, then, grit, 
 perseverance, and luck will probably reward a hard 
 worker with a comfortable income for life.' 
 
 "Inspector Strickland, of the Canadian Mounted 
 Police, is en route to Ottawa on official business. 
 His statements were guarded and conservative. He 
 said there were only two mining districts in what is 
 known as the Klondike section and they are called 
 the Hunker and Bonanza districts. He added : — 
 
 " ' When I left Dawson City a month ago there 
 were about 800 claims staked out, and there were 
 between 2,000 and 3,000 people in there. We can 
 safely say that there was about 1,500,000 dols in gold 
 mined last winter. The wages in the mines were 
 15 dols. a day, and the saw-mill paid labourers 10 dols. 
 a day.' 
 
 " * The claims now staked out will afford employ- 
 ment for about 5,000 men, I believe. If a man is 
 strong, healthy, and wants to work, he can find 
 employment at good wages. Several men worked on 
 
po 
 
 r 
 
 \t\. ■•(} 
 
 ao 
 
 THE KLONDIKE GOLDFIELDS, 
 
 an interest, or what is termed a ' lay/ and during the 
 winter realised from 5,000 dols. to 10,000 dols. apiece. 
 The mines are from 35 to 100 miles from the Alaska 
 boundarj'.' 
 
 "William Stanley, of Seattle, is among the pas- 
 sengers. He left his son in charge of his interests in 
 a couple of claims. He went to the Klondike last 
 year, and is now returning with nearly 90,000 dols. in 
 gold. 
 
 " Harry Anderson, a native of Sweden, and well- 
 known on the Sound, sold a one-half interest in his 
 claim on Eldorada creek, and is coming back to 
 Seattle with 45,000 dols. spot cash, the proceeds of 
 the sale. 
 
 " T. J. Kelly and son, of Tacoma, went in last 
 year and made 10,000 dols. The son is in charge of 
 the claim, and the father is among the Portland's 
 passengers.- 
 
 " Richard Blake, of Dungeness, has been successful, 
 and is coming back to the place where he was born 
 and raised with a big sackful of nuggets. 
 
 '* William Sloan, formerly a dry goods merchant of 
 Nanaimo, B.C., sold his claim for 52,000 dols,, and with 
 the gold he took from the mine has come back to 
 civilisation. 
 
 " Another man by the name of Wilkenson, of the 
 same city, sold his claim for 40,000 dols., and is back 
 to stay. 
 
 " Bob Strong, of Port Townsend, has a good claim, 
 and is in a fair way to make a good fortune, but his 
 brother, William G. Strong, is not so fortunate. 
 They are both working on the Eldorado river. 
 
AND HOW TO GET THERE. 
 
 ai 
 
 during the 
 ols. apiece, 
 the Alaska 
 
 g the pas- 
 interests in 
 Dndike last 
 000 dols. in 
 
 L, and well- 
 terest in his 
 ng back to 
 proceeds of 
 
 i^ent in last 
 
 in charge of 
 
 e Portland's 
 
 n successful, 
 he was born 
 
 merchant of 
 ols., and with 
 ome back to 
 
 enson, of the 
 J., and is back 
 
 a good claim, 
 rtune, but his 
 so fortunate, 
 river. 
 
 "Jack Home, of Tacoma, formerly a well-known 
 light-weight pugilist, of Puget Sound, went to the 
 Klondike last fall, and worked on a * lay.' He is re- 
 turning with something over 9,000 dols., which is prob- 
 ably more than he could have realised in the ' ring.' 
 
 "Frank Kellar, of Los Angeles, is on board the 
 Portland with 35,000 dols. He went in last year, 
 mined during the winter, and last month sold the 
 claim for that sum. 
 
 " Briefly, such is the story of nearly every miner on 
 board. They all have gold, and it is piled about the 
 state-rooms like so much valueless hand baggage. 
 They attribute their success to * lucky strikes,' and 
 aver that thousands of people will rush to the Yukon 
 valley in the next year or two, and after undergoing 
 great hardships and privations will probably return 
 broke in health and finances. All of the miners lay 
 great stress on the necessity of taking in plenty of 
 supplies, and say that the proper outfit will cost not 
 less than 500 dols. to each man, and that it is advisable 
 to purchase provisions and clothing in Seattle. 
 
 " There can be no doubt that the late strikes in the 
 Yukon Valley are the richest ever known. Instances 
 are common where pans of gravel have yielded over 
 100 dols., and occasionally much more. It is generally 
 conceded, though, that all of the territory where the 
 rich strikes were made has been staked and that so 
 far as those districts are concerned it is useless for any 
 one to think of making locations. 
 
 " But, then, there are other streams, all of which are 
 known to have gold-bearing bars, but it is extremely 
 doubtful as to whether their richness will equal the 
 
 179520 
 
sm 
 
 22 
 
 THE KLONDIKE GOLDFIELDS, 
 
 famed Eldorado and Bonanza creeks of the Klon- 
 dike." 
 
 The Intelligencer follows these details with a list 
 of passengers' names, as if to add weight to its 
 statements as here given. 
 
 Here is an extract from a letter written by Capt 
 Higgins of the s.s. Excelsior to a friend in California 
 who got his information from miners on board. 
 
 " The Klondike empties into the Yukon fifty miles 
 above the Big river. The geographical position of 
 the junction is 76 degrees 10 minutes north latitude, 
 138 degrees 50 minutes west longtitude. Bonanza 
 Creek dumps into Klondike about two miles above 
 the Yukon. Eldorada is a tributary of the Bonanza. 
 There are numerous other creeks and tributaries, the 
 main river being 3CXD miles long. The gold so far 
 has been taken from Bonanza and Eldorado, both 
 well named, for the richness of the placers is truly 
 marvellous. Eldorado, thirty miles long, is staked 
 the whole length, and as far as worked has paid. 
 
 "As each claim is 500 feet along the creek bed, 
 there is half a million to the claim. So uniform has 
 the output been that one miner who has an interest 
 in three claims told me that if offered his choice he 
 would toss up to decide. One of our passengers, who 
 is taking icx),0(X) dols. with him, has worked 100 feet 
 of his ground and refused 2CX),ooo dols. for the re- 
 mainder, and confidently expects to clean up 400,000 
 dols. and more. He has in a bottle 212 dols. from 
 one pan of dirt. His pay dirt, while being washed, 
 averaged 250 dols. per hour to each man shovelling 
 in. Two others of our miners who worked their own 
 
AND HOW TO GET THERE. 
 
 23 
 
 claims, cleaned up 6,000 dols. for the day's washing. 
 There is about 1 5 feet of dirt above bed rock, the pay 
 streak averaging from 4 to 6 feet, which is tunnelled 
 out while the ground is frozen. Of course the ground 
 taken out is thawed by building fires, and when the 
 thaw comes and water rushes in they set their sluices 
 and wash the dirt. Two of our fellows thought 
 a small bird in the hand worth a large one in the 
 bush, and sold their claims for 45,000 dols., getting 
 4,500 dols. down, the remainder to be paid in monthly 
 instalments of 10,000 dols. each. The purchasers had 
 no more than 5,000 dols. paid. There were twenty 
 days thawing and getting out dirt. Then there was 
 no water to sluice with, but one fellow made a rocker, 
 and in ten days took out the io,ooo dols. for the first 
 instalment. So, tunnelling and rocking, they took out 
 40,000 dols. before there was water to sluice with. 
 
 "Of course, these thing read like the story of 
 Aladdin, but fiction is not at all in it with the facts 
 at Klondike. The ground located and prospected can 
 be worked out in a few years, but there is still an 
 immense territory untouched, and the labouring man 
 who can get there with one year's provisions will 
 have a better chance to make a stake than in any 
 other part of the world." 
 
 In 1887 an expedition was despatched by the 
 Canadian Government to the Yukon district, under 
 the personal charge of Dr. Geo. Dawson, after whom 
 Dawson City is named, and who is now Director of 
 the Geological Survey of the Dominion, and his ex- 
 haustive report contained in the proceedings of the 
 Survey, contains the most authentic information at 
 
9Bi^ai 
 
 34 
 
 THE KLONDIKE GOLDFIELDS, 
 
 present available on the geology, topography and 
 general characteristics of the district. I refer my 
 readers to this report, which can be obtained of 
 Mr. Edward Stanford, Cockspur Street, Charing 
 Cross. 
 
 But for the benefit of those concerned I give the 
 following extract. Cassiar Bar on the Lewis (or 
 Lewes) River, with rich deposits, was discovered 
 early in 1886, while in the autumn of that year the 
 sensational reports of the d'ccovery of " Coarse Gold" 
 on Forty-Mile Creek drew off nearly the entire 
 mining population to that place in 1887. The extract 
 is a summary of Dr. Dawson's report on gold dis- 
 coveries to that date. He writes : — 
 
 " 1 aking a general view of the gold discoveries so 
 far as made in the Upper Yukon country, we find 
 that, though some small bars have been worked on 
 the upper part of the Lewes, and ' prospects ' have 
 been obtained" even in the streams flowing into 
 Bennett Lake, paying bars have been found on this 
 river only below the mouth of the Tes-lin-too. The 
 best of these are within a distance of about seventy 
 miles below this confluence, and the richest so far has 
 been Cassiar Bar. This is reported to have yielded, 
 in some cases, at the rate of 30 dols. a day to the 
 hand, and gold to the value of many thousand dollars 
 has been obtained from it, chiefly in 1886. In 1887 
 only three or four men worked here. All along the 
 Lewes below the Tes-lin-too, many bars occur which, 
 according to the reports of prospectors, yield as much 
 as 10 dols. a day ; and the same is true of the Tes- 
 lin-too itself, both belov/ and above Tes-lin Lake. 
 
AND HOW TO GET THERE. 
 
 as 
 
 Bars of this kind are, however, considered scarcely 
 remunerative at present. 
 
 " Gold has also been found for a long distance up 
 the Big Salmon River, and on the Upper Pelly so far 
 as it has been prospected. The Tes-lin-too, Big 
 Salmon, and Pelly have each already afforded some 
 good paying ground, but in consequence of the rush 
 to Forty-Mile Creek only about thirteen miners 
 remained in 1887 on the first-named river, four on the 
 second, and two on the Pelly. On the Stewart River, 
 as much as 100 dols. a day to the hand was obtained 
 in 1885 and 1886, and probably over 100,000 dols. 
 worth of gold has already been obtained along this 
 stream. It has been prospected for a distance of lOO 
 to 200 miles from its mouth (according to varying 
 statements), and the gold found furthest up is said to 
 be somewhat ' coarser ' than that of the lower part. 
 
 " Forty-Mile Creek is reported to be a river of 
 some size, * but more rapid than most of those in the 
 district. It has, according to miners, been prospected 
 for about 100 miles from its mouth, gold being found 
 almost everywhere along it as well as in tributary 
 gulches. The gold varies much in character, but is 
 quite often coarse and nuggety, and very large 
 amounts have been taken out in favourable places by 
 individual miners. Few of the men mining here in 
 1887 were content with ground yielding less than 
 14 dols. a day, and several had taken out nearly 
 100 dols. a day for a short time. The amount 
 obtained from this stream in 1887 is reckoned by 
 some as high as 120,000 dols., but I believe it would 
 
 * 300 miles long, and 150 miles wide at its mouth. 
 
fl6 
 
 THE KLONDIKE GOLDFIELDS, 
 
 be safe to put the entire output of the Upper Yukon 
 region for the year at a minimum of 75,cxx) dols., of 
 which the greatest pat^ was derived from this stream. 
 
 " The number of miners in the whole Upper Yukon 
 country in 1887 may be stated at about 250 ; of these, 
 200 were on Forty-Mile Creek, and it was estimated 
 that at [least 100 would winter on the creek to be 
 ready for work in the spring. 
 
 " Forty-Mile Creek is what the miners term a 
 * bed-rock creek ' — i.e.^ one in which there is no great 
 depth of drift or detrital deposits below the level of 
 the actual stream. It is so far the only locality 
 \/hich has been found to yield * coarse gold,' but from 
 the extremely wide distribution of ' fine gold,* it may 
 safely be predicted that many more like it remain to 
 be discovered. 
 
 "Mining can scarcely be said >*:o have begun in the 
 region more than five years a^o, and the extent of 
 country over which gold has been found in greater 
 or less quantity is already very great Most of the 
 prospecting has been confined to the banks and bars 
 of the larger rivers, and it is only when their innumer- 
 able tributary streams begin to be closely searched, 
 that * gulch diggings ' like those of Dease, McDame, 
 and other streams in the Cassiar district, and possibly 
 even on a par with Williams and Lightning Creeks in 
 Cariboo, will be found and worked. The general 
 result so far has been to prove that six large and 
 long rivers — the Lewes, Tcs-lin-too, Big Salmon, 
 Pelly, Stewart, and White — yield 'fine gold* along 
 hundreds of miles of their lower courses. With the 
 exception of the Lewes, no part of the headwaters of 
 
AND HOW TO GET THERE. 
 
 87 
 
 any of these have yet been prospected or even 
 reached by the miners, and scarcely any of their 
 innumerable tributaries have been examined. The 
 developments made up to this time are sufficient to 
 show that when means of access are improved, 
 important bar-mining wi!l take place along all these 
 main rivers, and there is every reason to anticipate 
 that the result of the examination in detail of the 
 smaller streams will be the discovery of much richer 
 auriferous alluviums. When these have been found 
 and worked, quartz mining will doubtless follow, and 
 the prospects for the utilisation of this great mining 
 field in the near future appear to me very promising." 
 " The rich promise furnished by the foregoing sum- 
 mary of the present Director of the Geological Sur- 
 vey has been confirmed by subsequent events. Placer 
 mining has steadily developed, notwithstanding the 
 disadvantages arising from the short mining season 
 and the enormous difficulties in forwarding supplies 
 to the miners. Everything has had to be packed in 
 by the route already referred to, the alternative route 
 by the Yukon River being quite unsuitable for 
 the richer southern districts where mining has been 
 most successful. In 1895, the Canadian Government 
 decided to establish a Police post on the region for 
 the maintenance of law and order among the mining 
 population, and for purposes of revenue. Inspector 
 Constantine, of the North- West Mounted Police, was 
 despatched with a body of men from Regina on this 
 service; the journey occupied from June ist to July 
 24th. A site for a fort was selected at the mouth 
 of Forty-Mile Creek, on the Yukon River, and the 
 
 I 
 
^m 
 
 28 
 
 THE KLONDIKE GOLDFIELDS, 
 
 necessary buildings erected. The condition? and 
 prospects of the mining industry in that region have 
 been reported upon to the Canadian Government by 
 Inspector Constantine, and his statements on the 
 subject, taken from his reports for 1895 and 1896, 
 are reprinted below. 
 
 Extract from Inspector Constantino s Report^ 
 January 20///, 1896. 
 
 "'Mining up to the present has been done with 
 the pick, shovel, rocker and water. No capital in- 
 vested in machinery at present. A quartz ledge has 
 been opened up near Fort Cudahy, on the Forty- 
 Mile Creek. A couple of tons of the quartz were 
 sent out this summer for a final assay, and if the 
 result sustains the trial test made here by a local 
 assayer, it is stated that a small stamp-mill will be 
 put up next season. This will in a measure deter- 
 mine the future of the country. The test here was 
 good. The quantity of this quartz in sight is large — 
 larger than the " Treadwell Mine," near Juneau. The 
 country is full of quartz ledges, more or less valuable, 
 and it only requires a short way of getting in from 
 the south, with the assurance of a certainty of sup- 
 plies, in order to develop them. This is the reason 
 that the south-v^ast part of the country and upper rivers 
 and lakes have not been worked. In a country where 
 a man has to pole up a rapid river for some hundreds 
 of miles in summer, then pack his food, clothing, 
 camping and working tools on his back, or in winter 
 either haul them himself or with dog, consideration 
 as to where he can get his food and clothing is of 
 
AND HOW TO GET THERE, 
 
 99 
 
 vital importance to him, and he is governed accord- 
 ingly. This accounts for the number of men working 
 on the Forty-Mile and creeks emptying into it. Even 
 here food has to be packed on men's backs in the 
 summer at a charge of 30 cents per pound, and in 
 winter by dogs at 10 cents per pound. This is for 
 about 85 miles. The outlook for the coming year is 
 more promising than that of last year. 
 
 "'A conservative estimate of the amount of gold 
 taken out last summer and winter is about 250,000 
 dols., and from the present outlook it should be in- 
 creased by fifty per cent. A grea": deal will depend 
 on Glacier Creek, which was worked for the first time 
 last summer. Very little wa? done on acroant of the 
 claims not being in proper shape for working. Many 
 of the claims are quite deep, and will pay better to 
 work by drifting during the winter, which has been 
 hindered up to the present by the mi'.d weather. The 
 work done so far has shown up a large yield of gold. 
 There is still a little 'snipping ' — i.e.^ working old bars 
 — on Forty-Mile Creek, but it does not pay much, 
 There are a great number of creeks which have nevei 
 been prospected, which undoubtedly would pay good 
 wages if properly worked, and which will be before 
 long. In fact, there is hardly a creek within 300 miles 
 south-east or north-west of here in which more or less 
 gold is not found. The true value of the mineral 
 wealth of this part of the country will not be known 
 for many years to come, as new discoveries are being 
 made each season. 
 
 "There will be a great deal of drifting done on 
 Miller Creek this winter. This creek has been worked 
 
 % 
 
'!",i!'mV"W'",nHW,i,«IHIM 
 
 30 
 
 THE KLONDIKE GOLDFIELDS, 
 
 for the past four years, and up to the present time has 
 been the richest one here, and is good for some time 
 to come. On claim 3 below 'Discovery,' there has 
 been taken out in the last three years 55,000 dols. in 
 500 feet of ground ; this has been tho best paying 
 claim. Davis and Poker Gulches are each good for 
 a limited number of men. There has not been taken 
 from these gulches any large fortune, but they have 
 yielded good steady profit to the owners. Franklin 
 Gulch, one of the first discovered, is still paying well, 
 and has been worked for the past nine years. 
 
 About 200 men are working on Glacier Creek, of 
 which number two-thirds are working for wages ; on 
 Miller Creek, about 150, of which 100 are working for 
 wages. The lower ends of these two creeks are sup- 
 posed tc be in the North- West Territories. Bi .»wn Creek 
 has been ;vorked this winter. Bear Creek and Clinton 
 Creek, on the" west side of the Yukon, are gold-bearing 
 and in the Dominion. Gold has also been found on 
 Indian Creek, Squaw Creek, and other small streams 
 flowing into Yukon from the eastward." 
 
 Extract from Inspector Constantino s Report, 
 November 20, 1 896. 
 
 "The running of the boundary line last winter 
 determined the fact that gold-bearing creeks which 
 hitherto were supposed to be in American territory 
 are wholly, or in part, in Canada ; the .wo nrincip.:.! 
 ones being Miller and Glacier. Notice wa^. sent d « 
 miners that these, as well as certain other creeks 
 specified in the notice, were in Canada, and subject 
 to her jurisdiction and laws. This was cheerfully 
 
AND HOW TO GET THERE. 
 
 31 
 
 it time has 
 some time 
 
 there has 
 )00 dols. in 
 est paying 
 h good for 
 been taken 
 
 they have 
 Franklin 
 aying well, 
 •s. 
 
 r Creek, of 
 wages ; on 
 working for 
 ks are sup- 
 li jwn Creek 
 ind Clinton 
 [old-bearing 
 en found on 
 lall streams 
 
 Report^ 
 
 last winter 
 reeks which 
 ;an territory 
 vo nrirxip.;.! 
 va^ sent cVc 
 )ther creeks 
 and subject 
 s cheerfully 
 
 accepted, and mining regulations adhered to and all 
 the necessary Government fees paid. 
 
 "A few miners denied Canada's jurisdicaon and 
 ^i^ht to collect fees, on the ground that there was no 
 ^.rt survey and a possibility of error in the work, 
 ii /..ever, I went up to Miller and Glacier Creeks, 
 and all dues were paid without any trouble, except 
 that of a hard trip ; but as all trips in this country 
 are of that nature, it was part of the bargain. On 
 Glacier Creek, a number of the miners undertook to 
 run matters in accordance with their ideas of justice, 
 and set themselves up as the law of the land. The 
 trouble ended, however, by the Canadian law being 
 carried out 
 
 " As far is I can learn, the amount of gold taken 
 out this jvir'£nn is about 300,000 dols., or 17,647 oz., 
 chief!} 1; Jiis Miller and Glacier Creeks. This is a 
 slight li.w '--t on last year. 
 
 " In AugLS. of thiL ^ ear a rich discovery of coarse 
 gold was made by one George Cormack on Bonanza 
 Creek, a tributary to the Klondike or Trondec River, 
 which flows into the Yukon river about fifty miles 
 from here, entering from the south-east. His prospect 
 showr ' 3 dols. to the pan. As usual, such a prospect 
 creai.' * ;■ stampede for the new diggings. Men left 
 th^ir Oi^ claiMs, and with a blanket, axe, and a few 
 hard-tack prospected on the new creek, staked, and 
 registered their claims, which in all cases gave bettei 
 prospects than any other heretofore. Many old 
 miners state that this creek is fully as rich as any 
 found in California in the early days. New creeks 
 are being found daily, all prospecting well. Three 
 
 
mim 
 
 32 
 
 THE KLONDIKE GOLDFIELDS, 
 
 hundred and thirty-eight claims have been registered 
 to date, and there still remain about 150 to be 
 entered. 
 
 "The country be in Hunker Creek and Mc- 
 Questen River, whicn empties into the Stewart 
 River, is full of small creeks and gulches, which on 
 being prospected have all given good results. It is 
 probable that the gold belt will in time be found to 
 extend from the Klondike to the Cassiar, and that 
 the whole of this to the Divide will prove to be rich 
 in gold. Without doubt before long rich quartz will 
 be found, but not worked until some means of trans- 
 porting the necessary heavy machinery is provided 
 and supplies can be got in at reasonable cost. The 
 gold-bearing creeks in Canadian territory on the 
 west side of the Yukon are as follows : — Gold, 
 Miller, and Glacier Creeks, all but one mile of bed- 
 rock ; Moose and the first fork of Moose Creek, one 
 mile of the three heads of Smith Creek, and of the 
 several heads of Canyon Creek, about one mile of the 
 Poker and Davis branches of Walker Creek, one and 
 a half miles of Walker Creek. 
 
 "On the cast side of the Yukon are the following 
 creeks : — Bonanza, Boulder, Adams, Eldorado, Vic- 
 toria, Carmack, Bear, Last Chance, Hunker, Gold 
 Bottom, and Baker Creeks. These latter creeks are 
 all of a fair size, with a good supply of water for 
 mining purposes, and easy of access. 
 
 " Bonanza is a large creek, and it is possible there 
 may be too much water to be easily worked in the 
 spring. 
 
 "A new post should be built in the spring at the 
 
AND HOW TO GET THERE. 
 
 33 
 
 :gistered 
 D to be 
 
 ind Mc- 
 Stewart 
 vhich on 
 ts. It is 
 found to 
 and that 
 :o be rich 
 uartz will 
 of trans- 
 provided 
 ost. The 
 yr on the 
 s : — Gold, 
 e of bed- 
 Zreek, one 
 nd of the 
 lile of the 
 <:, one and 
 
 following 
 rado, Vic- 
 ker, Gold 
 creeks are 
 
 water for 
 
 sible there 
 ced in the 
 
 ■ing at the 
 
 mouth of the Klondike River, which flows into the 
 
 Yukon on the east side about 53 miles south-east of 
 
 Forty-Mile. This point will be the base of supplies 
 
 for the new diggings, and will in all probability be 
 
 the largest camp in the country. Nearly 350 claims 
 
 have been already registered in this district. As the 
 
 average number of men required to work a claim is 
 
 five, it means a camp of nearly 2,000 workers, as well 
 
 as the usual number of camp followers." 
 
 On January 7th, 1897, Mr. Ogilvie, whom I have 
 
 quoted before, reports to his government : " The 
 
 reports from the Klondike regions are still very 
 
 encouraging, so much so that all the other creeks 
 
 around are practically abandoned, especially those on 
 
 the head of Forty-Mile Creek, in American territory ; 
 
 and nearly 100 men have made their way up from 
 
 Circle City, hauling their sleds themselves many of 
 
 them. Those who cannot get claims are buying in 
 
 on those already located. Men cannot be got to work 
 
 for love or money. One and a-half dollars per hour is 
 
 the wage paid the few , men who hire for work, and 
 
 work as many hours as you like. Some of the claims 
 
 are so rich that every night a few pans of dirt suffice 
 
 to pay the hired help, when there is any. Claim owners 
 
 are now very reticent about what they get, so you can 
 
 hardly credit anything you hear ; but one thing is certain, 
 
 we have one of the richest mining areas ever found with 
 
 a fair prospect of not having yet discovered its limits. 
 
 Miller and Glacier Creeks, at the head of Sixty-Mile 
 
 River, were thought to be very rich, but they are both 
 
 ")oor in quality and quantity compared with Klondike. 
 
 "hicken Creek on the head of Forty Mile, in Alaska, 
 
 D 
 
 Iv^W 
 
 ll' 
 
34 
 
 THE KLONDIKE GOLDFIELDS, 
 
 discovered a year ago, and rated very high, is to-day 
 practically abandoned." 
 
 On January 23rd, 1897, he again reports : " A quartz 
 lode showing free gold, has been located on one of 
 the Creeks. The quartz, I understand from a reliable 
 source, is rich, as tested over 100 dols. to the ton. 
 The lode appears to run from three to eight feet in 
 thickness, and lies about 19 miles from the Yukon 
 River. Coal is found on the upper part of Klondike, 
 so that the facilities for working are good and con- 
 venient. 
 
 " Placer prospects continue more and more encourag- 
 ing. It is beyond dc ibt that three pans on different 
 claims on Eldorado Creek turned out 204 dols., 212 
 dols., and 216 dols., but it must be borne in mind 
 that there were only three such pans, though there 
 were many running from 10 dols. to 50 dols." 
 
 It will be noticed that these reports are later in 
 date than those I previously quoted as emanating 
 from Mr. Ogilvie, on p. 9. But alas ! Authorities 
 differ as to the possibilities of Klondike. 
 
 Colonel Domville says : " The Yukon and its 
 branches undoubtedly contain an almost unlimited 
 area of the richest goldfields in the world, known to 
 the Canadian Government through its geological 
 explorers." Another authority — a former British 
 Columbian Gold Commissioner — tells a different 
 tale. He reminds us of how the Canadian Govern- 
 ment was deceived by the reports of geologists 
 on the Fraser River Goldfields, forty years ago, 
 when there was a similar rush there to that now 
 taking place to the Yukon. This authority does not 
 

 AND HOW TO GET THERE. 
 
 35 
 
 >'t 
 
 dispute that gold is to be found in the Yukon ; he 
 only doubts the permanence of the yield. No gold- 
 bearing quartz has been discovered there yet Many 
 men made lucky finds on the Fraser River, as they 
 have done on the Yukon, and as they may do on 
 every stream in the North-Western territories. At 
 the Cariboo fields one man washed out 170 oz. of 
 gold in a single day. But no reef was discovered, 
 although a reward of 5,000 dols. was offered to the 
 first man who would bring in a piece of gold-bearing 
 quartz broken off the " live rock " in British Columbia. 
 The reward has never been claimed. Unless gold- 
 bearing quartz is discovered on the Yukon, the yield 
 may soon give out. 
 
 But according to Mr. Ogilvie, as quoted above, a 
 gold-bearing quartz-reef has been found. The intend- 
 ing emigrant must decide for himself. Anyhow the 
 " placer " diggings may be looked upon as " Poor 
 Men's Mines," for the reason that the work is done 
 without machinery, while the implements required 
 are few and of small cost. A placer miner can 
 get along very well with a pick, shovel, and gold 
 pan. If the dirt is not rich he can accomplish better 
 results by running it through a sluice box, but where 
 the yield is in nuggets instead of fine gold he prefers 
 to " pan " it. The great Klondike strike was made 
 nine months ago, but nothing was known of it in the 
 United States until June 15, when the Excelsior 
 arrived in San Francisco laden with miners from the 
 Klondike, who in turn were laden with gold. They 
 told almost incredible tales of the richness of the 
 newly discovered district^ where fortunes had been 
 
 V ,-!:: 
 
36 
 
 THE KLONDIKE GOLDFIELDS, 
 
 accumulated in a few months. Experienced miners 
 and " tenderfeet " seemed to have shared good fortune 
 alike, and this doubtless adds to the " rush," since a 
 clerk, or a telegraphist, or an actor out of a " shop " 
 (always provided they are robust enough to stand 
 the climate) stand as good a chance of striking it 
 rich as the miner of experience. Indeed the great 
 discovery of gold on the Klondike was made by 
 " tenderfeet," and it seems as if the auriferous district 
 grows richer and richer as it recedes from the Eastern 
 Alaskan boundary and approaches the Mackenzie 
 and the Rocky Mountains, though possibly the 
 extreme limit will be reached on touching the sources 
 of the many creeks and rivers that have their origin 
 between the Rockies and the Yukon. 
 
 It may be considered then that sufficient evidence, 
 official and other, has been adduced to prove the 
 existence of gold in sufficient quantity to enable 
 miners to make money, with the possibility of making 
 a fortune with more or less rapidity. It remains to 
 be seen how intending prospectors can get to Klon- 
 dike, the nature of the road, the outfit necessary, and 
 the cost. All these I shall deal with in turn. 
 
 First then, how to get there (and, of course, I am 
 thinking of the Britisher) is easily answered up to a 
 certain point. The Canadian Pacific Railway will 
 take him from Liverpool to either Vancouver, in 
 British Columbia, or Seattle, in Washington, U.S.A., 
 at the following rates : — 
 
 First Class, £2<^ 2s. lod., Saloon on Steamer, 
 1st Class on Rail; Second Class, £1"] i8s. 9', 
 Second Cabin on Steamer, "Colonist" on Rail, and 
 
AND HOW TO GET THERE, 
 
 37 
 
 Free Ticket London to Liverpool ; Third Class, 
 £\^ 1 8s. 9d., Steerage Steamer, "Colonist" Rail, 
 Free to Liverpool. 
 
 Children (when accompanied) on Rail : — Under 
 12 years and over 5 years, Half-fare; under 5 years 
 Free. On Steamer: — Under 12 years and over 2 
 years, Half-fare, all classes. Under 2 years Free 
 " Saloon." Under i year Free " Intermediate ;" 
 I OS. " Steerage." 
 
 First-class on the C.RR. corresponds to the 
 " Pullman " in England, but is said to .be superior if 
 there is sleeping accommodation, but if none, then it 
 more nearly corresponds with our second class, while 
 the *' Colonist " is equivalent to our third class, but 
 much more comfortable and capable of being trans- 
 formed into sleeping cars at night. All the carriages 
 are capitally ventilated, have adequate lavatory ac- 
 commodation of every kind, and are warmed with 
 hot-water pipes in winter. 
 
 Since, as I assume, most travellers who intend going 
 out would travel " Colonist," here are a few facts they 
 should know beforehand. 
 
 The cars devoted to the use of Colonists are taken 
 upon the same fast trains with the first class cars, and 
 every one is a sleeping car, going through with only 
 one change froui the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean, or 
 to St. Paul, Minneapolis, Duluth and Chicago. No 
 other road in America can do this. These colonist 
 cars are similar in size, warmth and ventilation to the 
 first class cars, but are not upholstered. No extra 
 charge is made for these Colonist Car sleeping 
 accommodations. Second Class passengers, however, 
 
 !■ 
 
 I' 
 
 il 
 
 ?i'i 1 
 
3« 
 
 THE KLONDIKE GOLDFIELDS, 
 
 must provide their own bedding. If they do not 
 bring it with them, a complete outfit of mattress, 
 pillow, blanket and curtains may be bought of the 
 Agent of the Company at the point of starting, at a 
 cost of 2.50 dols. (about ten shillings). (These articles 
 become the property of the purchaser.) The curtains 
 may be hung around a berth at night, thus securing 
 complete privacy. Men travelling alone are cut off 
 from families by a partition across the car near the 
 middle ; and smoking is not permitted in that part of 
 the car where the women and children are. 
 
 At convenient intervals the train stops at stations 
 where hot coffee and tea and well-cooked food may 
 be bought at a lunch counter ; or hot meals procured 
 at 25 cents (i shilling) each ; and hot water for making 
 tea and coffee can also be procured on these cars 
 during the winter months. 
 
 The cars are not allowed to become overcrowded, 
 and the safety and welfare of Colonist, or Second 
 Class, passengers are carefully attended to. The 
 baggage arrangements are the same as for First Class, 
 and every possible care is taken that in a new land 
 the Colonist does not go astray, lose his property or 
 suffer imposition. Where a large number of Colonists 
 are going to the Far West together, special fast trains 
 of Colonist Sleeping Cars will be dispatched, 
 accompanied by an ofBcial conductor. 
 
 This then takes us as far as Vancouver say. It 
 then becomes a question which of the only two routes 
 he chooses, and I am assuming of course that he is 
 travelling at the proper season when both are practic- 
 able. The C.P.R. official , whom I have consulted, 
 
AND HOW TO GET THERE, 
 
 39 
 
 Strongly advise the sea-route. This, which they 
 describe as the best, because the easiest and cheapest, 
 goes ^ia Mission Junction, after leaving Vancouver, 
 to Seattle, on Puget Sound, from which the steamers 
 of the N. American Transportation and Trading Coy. 
 sail via the Straits of San Juan de Fuca, north- 
 westerly across the Pacific to Dutch Harbour on one 
 of the Aleutian Islands, a group spreading westwards 
 like stepping stones to Asia from the westermost 
 point of Alaska Peninsula. From Dutch Harbour 
 the steamer goes through Behring Sea and Norton 
 Sound to Fort Get There, on St. Michael's Island. 
 Here a transfer is made to the same Company's river 
 steamers, these steam down the coast to the Kwich- 
 pak or north mouth of the Yukon, which is navigable 
 for large craft for over 2,000 miles. The steamboat 
 service terminates at Fort Cudahy, which is just in- 
 side the line of demarcation. The cost of this journey 
 from Seattle is ;^30 i6s. 6d. So that assuming as 
 before, a miner goes " Colonist," the whole journey 
 from London to Fort Cudahy costs ;^48 15s. 3d. This 
 is the route recommended by the officials of the 
 C.P.R. 
 
 The river voyage should be very enjoyable accord- 
 ing to information derived from the P all Mall Gazette, 
 The Yukon, a river larger than the Mississippi, 
 abounds in fish, the salmon being noted far and wide 
 for their fine flavour and large size. 
 
 As one proceeds up the river one sees innumerable 
 Indian villages and small settlements inhabited by 
 traders, missionaries, and Indians, all of interest to 
 the traveller. The first two or three hundred miles is 
 
 .:r J 
 
 iii 
 
40 
 
 THE KLONDIKE GOLDFIELDS, 
 
 through a low, flat country, after which the mountain- 
 ous country is reached, and the constant change of 
 magnificent scenery is beyond description. At old 
 Fort Yukon, which is inside of the Arctic circle, during 
 the months of June and July the sun is above the 
 horizon without a break, and all along the river dur- 
 ing these months one can read a paper at any time 
 during the day or night without a lamp. It is 
 continuous daylight during this time. 
 
 After leaving here the next point of interest is Circle 
 City, the metroplis of the Yukon country. Here is a 
 large frontier town, the houses all built of logs, and 
 while they have no pretensions to beauty, they are 
 warm and comfortable. Circle City has a population 
 of nearly two thousand people, and some of the best 
 placer mines in the country are located near this 
 place. From here the traveller proceeds up the river 
 240 miles farther, and finds Fort Cudahy at the 
 mouth of Forty-Mile Creek. This is a thriving town, 
 similar to Circle City, but not so large. It is the 
 supply point for the mines in the forty-mile district. 
 Prosperous for the last four years, it has turned out a 
 great quantity of gold, this being the first important 
 district where coarse gold was discovered. A little 
 farther on is Dawson City and sixty-five miles over 
 the hills are the Klondike placer mines. 
 
 This route, however, is long, and must be taken 
 when the sea and river are both free of ice — and this 
 condition would probably result in letting in other 
 miners ahead of you through the Chilcoot and White 
 passes, a route which we shall next proceed to 
 consider. Possibly the very best plan would be to 
 
AND HOW TO GET THERE. 
 
 41 
 
 proceed to Vancouver, remain there for the winter 
 gathering information, buying stores, clothing, etc., 
 and so be ready to proceed at the earliest moment, 
 by either route to the goldfields, and this is the plan 
 I should be inclined to recommend. 
 
 Let us suppose the intending prospector is arrived 
 at Vancouver, if he intends proceeding by the *"t. 
 ^^ichael's route he knows now how he must act, and 
 
 ' nature and aspect of his voyage, but if he feels he 
 ««ould care to risk the overland journey he cannot do 
 better than consider a letter addressed by the well- 
 known traveller Mr. Harry de Windt to The Times, 
 which I here reproduce : — 
 
 " Sir, — The discovery in Alaska within the past few 
 months of gold in large quantities has attracted con- 
 siderable attention, not only throughout the United 
 States, but also in Canada and British Columbia. 
 The auriferous deposits are of extraordinary richness, 
 40 pounds to the pan has been obtained on Bonanza 
 Creek, which is equal to the best records of California 
 or Cariboo; and although the output of gold through- 
 out the Yukon district in 1895 amounted to only 
 3,000,000, dols. these figures show an increase in 
 1896 of 1,670,000 dols., while further important discov- 
 eries have been made since the publication of these 
 statistics. It is possible that the very favourable 
 report of Inspector Constantine (published in the 
 Standard a few weeks ago) may attract capital and 
 labour from this country, but although the inspector 
 very rightly dwells upon the possibilities offered by 
 this new Eldorado he does not mention the difficulties 
 that at present attend the journey to the goldfields — 
 
 ill 
 
 1, .; 
 
 1 
 
 
 m 
 
43 THE KLONDIKE GOLDFIELDS, 
 
 difficulties wh'icli should not be overlooked by intend- 
 ing prospectors. The report concludes, ' A route 
 from the South to the headwaters of the Yukon is 
 required,' but this scarcely conveys a correct impres- 
 sion of the hardships, and even perils, that at present 
 encompass the voyage into the interior of Alaska 
 from the sea. 
 
 " There are two ways of entering Alaska — one by 
 sea from San Francisco, Vancouver, Victoria, and 
 other southern ports to St. Michael's in Behring Sea ; 
 the other, which I chose, and is taken by fully 90 per 
 cent, of the gold-seekers, by crossing the mountains 
 further south and descending a chain of lakes and 
 rapids to the headwaters of the Yukon River. The 
 distance saved by adopting the overland journey is 
 no less than 2,500 miles. The difficulties of this 
 voyage are only realized at Dyea, 100 miles from 
 Juneau, where the land journey commences and 
 where a bad anchorage frequently compels the 
 traveller to wade knee-deep for a considerable 
 distance before landing. Dyea consists of a rude log 
 store and a movable town of tents occupied by 
 diggers bound for the goldfields. A delay of several 
 days occurs here while Indians are procured to carry 
 tents and baggage to the lakes 24 miles distant over 
 the Chilkoot Pass, nearly 4,000 feet high. Provisions 
 must be brought from Juneau, for there is nothing to 
 be had here, or indeed anywhere this side of Forty- 
 Mile City, 600 miles away. 
 
 " The Chilkoot Pass is difficult, even dangerous, to 
 those not possessed of steady nerves. Towards the 
 summit tliere is a sheer ascent of 1,000 feet, where a 
 
AND HOW TO GET THERE. 
 
 4J 
 
 intend- 
 V. route 
 ukon is 
 impres- 
 present 
 Alaska 
 
 -one by 
 ria, and 
 ng Sea ; 
 ^90 per 
 >untains 
 kes and 
 ;r. The 
 arney is 
 
 of this 
 es from 
 es and 
 els the 
 iderable 
 •ude log 
 >ied by 
 
 several 
 to carry 
 mt over 
 ovisions 
 thing to 
 
 Forty- 
 
 Tous, to 
 irds the 
 ^here a 
 
 slip would certainly be fatal. At this point a dense 
 mist overtook us, but we reached Lake Lindemann — 
 the first of a series of five lakes — in safety after a 
 fatiguing tramp of 14 consecutive hours through 
 half-melted snow. Here wt had to build our own 
 boat, first felling the timber for the purpose. The 
 journey down the lakes occupied 10 days, four of 
 which were passed in camp on Lake Bennett during a 
 violent storm which raised a heavy sea. The rapids 
 followed. One of these latter, the " Grand Cafion," is 
 a mile long, and dashes through walls of rock from 
 50 to 100 feet high, six miles below arc the " White 
 Horse Rapids," a name which many fatal accidents 
 have converted into the " Miner's Grave." But snags 
 and rocks are everywhere a fruitful source of danger 
 on this river, and from this rapid, downward, scarcely 
 a day passed that one did not see some cairn or 
 wooden cross marking the last resting-place of some 
 drowned pilgrim to the land of gold. 
 
 " The above is a brief sketch of the troubles that 
 beset the Alaskan gold prospector — troubles that, 
 although unknown in the Eastern States and Canada, 
 have for many years past associated the name of 
 ' Yukon ' with an ugly sound in Western America. 
 
 "The journey to the Alaskan goldfields is a hard 
 one for the well-equipped explorer, who travels in 
 light marching order. The gold-prospector, on the 
 other hand, must carry a winter's supplies, dearly 
 purchased at Juneau, to be transported at ruinous 
 prices over the Chilkoot Pass. He must construct 
 his own boat (often single-handed) on Lake Linde- 
 mann, and, assuming that he arrives at his destination. 
 
44 
 
 THE KLONDIKE GOLDFIELDS, 
 
 must secure lodgings at a price that would startle a 
 West End landlord. And all this on, perhaps, a capital 
 of 1,000 dollars, not including a ticket to Juneau from 
 the Golden Gate or elsewhere. No wonder that the 
 annals of the Alaska Commercial Company bear 
 witness to the fact that, within the past five years, 
 hundreds of starving miners have been sent out of 
 the country at the company's expense, and these, as I 
 can testify, are but a percentage of those who have 
 perished from actual starvation in the dreary purlieus 
 of Circle City and Forty-Mile Creek. 
 
 " There is, however, a brighter side to this gloomy 
 picture, for there are fortunately other approaches to 
 the Yukon Valley besides the dreaded Chilkoot. The 
 chain of mountains of which the latter forms a part 
 is cut by three other passes — the Taku, the Chilkat, 
 and the White Pass. Of these the two former may 
 be dismissed as being, on account of their length and 
 other difficulties, almost as impracticable as the 
 Chilkoot, over which it would be quite impossible to 
 lay a bridle-path ; but the White Pass offers no serious 
 obstacles to the construction of a railway. The 
 White Pass is at least i,ooo feet lower than the Chil- 
 koot, and, unlike the latter, is timbered the entire 
 length. The salt water terminus of this pass 13 in 
 Skagway Bay, 85 miles from Juneau. Here ocean 
 steamers can run up at all times to a wharf which 
 has been constructed in a sheltered position, and there 
 is an excellent town site with protection from storms. 
 The pass lies through a box caflon surrounded by 
 high granite peaks and is comparatively easy. It has 
 already been used by miners who report very favour- 
 
AND HOW TO GET THERE. 
 
 45 
 
 [ startle a 
 1, a capital 
 leau from 
 r that the 
 any bear 
 ive years, 
 nt out of 
 these, as I 
 who have 
 \f purlieus 
 
 is gloomy 
 oaches to 
 oot. The 
 ms a part 
 3 Chilkat, 
 mer may 
 ;ngth and 
 2 as the 
 ossible to 
 no serious 
 ay. The 
 the Chil- 
 he entire 
 )ass i3 in 
 ire ocean 
 irf which 
 and there 
 n storms, 
 mded by 
 It has 
 y favour- 
 
 ably upon the trail, and when it is considered that 
 the adoption of this route obviates the dangers and 
 expenses of the Chilkoot, avoids Lakes Lindemann 
 and Bennett (the stormiest and most perilous of the 
 whole chain), shortens and greatly diminishes the ex- 
 pense of the journey to the Yukon Valley, and, above 
 all, can be used throughout the year (the interior of 
 Alaska is now completely cut off from the world for 
 nine months in the year), there can be little reasonable 
 doubt that the White Pass is the best and most prac- 
 ticable route to the Yukon goldfields. 
 
 "It is said that a scheme is now in progress to 
 open up the White Pass and facilitate the transp^ 
 of miners and stores to the mining settlements, ano 
 this is earnestly to be wished. An English company, 
 the British Columbia Development Association 
 (Limited), has already established a landing wharf, 
 and are erecting a store and sawmills at Skagway, 
 whence it is proposed (as soon as may be feasible) to 
 lay down a line of rail some 35 miles long, striking 
 the Yukon river at a branch of the Teslin Lake, about 
 100 miles below Lake Lindemann, which is the 
 debouchure of the Chilkoot Pass. By this means the 
 tedious and difficult navigation between these two 
 points will be avoided, and the only dangerous parts 
 of the river below — viz., the Grand Cafion and White 
 Horse Rapids — will be circumvented by a road or 
 rail portage. Light draught steamers will be put on 
 from Teslin Lake to the cafion, and from the foot of 
 the latter to all the towns and camps on the river. 
 Arrangements will also be made for direct communi- 
 cation with Skagway by the existing lines of steamers, 
 
 
46 
 
 THE KLONDIKE GOLDFIELDS, 
 
 
 which now only call at Juneau, whence transhipment 
 is necessary. 
 
 " It is stated that this route will be open for use 
 and traffic in a few months' time, when the cost of 
 transporting freight and passengers will be very 
 considerably reduced and the difficulties of the transit 
 practically eliminated. Much, however, depends upon 
 the Canadian Government, which, in view of the 
 increasing rush of miners to the Yukon Valley (many 
 of whom must, under existing conditions, inevitably 
 starve during the coming winter), should lose no time 
 in constructing a waggon road over the White Pass. 
 
 " When the above scheme has been carried out the 
 prospector (even of limited means) may reasonably 
 hope to reach his claim in safety and at a com- 
 paratively moderate outlay. At present I should 
 certainly recommend all those intending to try their 
 luck in Alaska to defer their journey until a less 
 hazardous route than that via the Chilkoot Pass is 
 open to them. It is with the object of warning 
 Elnglishmen, who may be deceived by the alluring 
 advertisements of unscrupulous agents, that I have 
 addressed you this letter. That there is gold in large 
 quantities on the Yukon has been conclusively proved, 
 but the wealth of the Indies would not compensate 
 the risks now attendant on the journey. As an old 
 Yukon miner remarked to me at Juneau, ' i, xxj dols. 
 a day would not fetch me over the Chill oot again, 
 but open up the " White Pass " and we will soon have 
 another Johannesburg at Forty-Mile Creek.' 
 
 I am, Sir, 
 
 yours 
 HARRY 
 
 truly, 
 
 HI 
 
 DE WINDT. 
 
AND HOW TO GET THERE. 
 
 47 
 
 As an appendix to this letter I add the following list 
 of stations and their distances, taken from "Appleton's 
 Guide Book to Alaska," which may be obtained from 
 Mr. VV. Heinemann, 21 Bedford Street, Strand, W.C. 
 
 Stations with their distances from Juneau to 
 Haines Mission. 
 
 %% 
 
 To Haines Mission 
 
 . 80 
 
 j» 
 
 Head of Canoe Navigation 
 
 106 
 
 » 
 
 Summit of Chilcoot Pass 
 
 . "5 
 
 M 
 
 Lake Linderman . . 
 
 . 124 
 
 n 
 
 Head of Lake Bennett . 
 
 129 
 
 n 
 
 Boundary Line 
 
 . 139 
 
 >f 
 
 Foot of Lake Bennett . 
 
 . 155 
 
 II 
 
 „ Caribou Crossing 
 
 . 158 
 
 II 
 
 „ Taku Lake 
 
 . 175 
 
 II 
 
 Takish House 
 
 . 179 
 
 II 
 
 Head of Mud Lake 
 
 , 180 
 
 II 
 
 Foot of Lake Marsh 
 
 . 200 
 
 II 
 
 Head of Canon 
 
 . 225 
 
 II 
 
 White Horse Rapids 
 
 . 228 
 
 II 
 
 Takuna River . 
 
 , 240 
 
 II 
 
 Head of Lake Barge 
 
 256 
 
 II 
 
 Foot of Lake Barge 
 
 287 
 
 II 
 
 Hootolinqua . 
 
 . 320 
 
 II 
 
 Cassiar Bar . . . 
 
 . 347 
 
 II 
 
 Little Salmon River 
 
 . 390 
 
 II 
 
 Five Fingers . 
 
 . 451 
 
 II 
 
 Felly River . 
 
 . 510 
 
 II 
 
 Stewart River. . 
 
 . 630 
 
 » 
 
 Forty-Mile Creek . 
 
 750 
 
 1 1 
 
 'km 
 
 
48 
 
 THE KLONDIKE GOLDFIELDS, 
 
 From the same source I cull the following, though 
 in view of the " rush " prices are probably in advance 
 of those now quoted ; still they will serve as a guide. 
 
 Private steamers can be hired at Victoria or Seattle 
 at rates varying from 200 dols. to 300 dols. a day — 
 but pilots are scarce and navigation dangerous. For 
 overland work dogs can be had but they are very 
 dear, feeding them is difficult and expensive. A few 
 vegetables can be purchased at most places, as also 
 fish and game in abundance. Fresh beef can only be 
 got at Juneau after leaving Victoria, Seattle or Van- 
 couver. Indian canoes cost 2 dols. a day and upward, 
 with pay for each oarsman by the day in addition. 
 It is well to make provision for heavy rain by taking 
 good mackintoshes, lined rubber boots, etc. Take 
 other thick boots, with thick woollen socks, thick 
 stout serviceable leggings, and all-wool underwear, 
 woollen gloves, flannel shirts, etc. U.S. money is 
 current everywhere, and the natives prefer silver 
 money, to either paper or gold. 
 
 Suppose any reader should elect to proceed to 
 Vancouver or Seattle, and remain there to be ready 
 for the early spring, the hotels recommended at 
 Seattle are the Ranier and Denny, where the rates 
 are 3 dols. a day and upward. The stations there are 
 on the water front close to Yeater's and Commercial 
 Wharf, where the steamers land. At Vancouver the 
 rate of the Hotel Vancouver is 3 dols. to 4 dols. 30 
 cents, and the Metropole 2 dols. 50 cents to 3 dols. 
 The show place of Vancouver is Stanley Park, a 
 great domain saved from the primeval forest. The 
 town is illuminated by electric light, and cable and 
 
 electric 
 
 amuse 
 
 Befc 
 
 to set 
 
 fortune 
 
 for anc 
 
 and th< 
 
 By s 
 
 coast o 
 
 mouth 
 
 wheelei 
 
 route, i< 
 
 enter ^ 
 
 the rive 
 
 days; t 
 
 »elied i] 
 
 If the 
 
 chad's V 
 
 are still 
 
 The V03; 
 
 stream \ 
 
 the ban! 
 
 Villages, 
 
 savages 
 
 of the I] 
 
 and cust 
 
 been bro 
 
 other mi 
 
 I refer tt 
 
 Potter's 
 
 opening 
 
 of each t 
 
AND HOW TO GET THERE. 
 
 49 
 
 electric cars run everywhere. There is plenty of 
 amusement. 
 
 Before deciding which route to take I should like 
 to set before any reader who thinks of trying his 
 fortune, what other information I have got together 
 for and against either route. First the Yukon route 
 and the nature of it : — 
 
 By steamer from Vancouver or Victoria along the 
 coast of British Columbia and Alaska territory to the 
 mouth of the Yukon River, and thence by stern 
 wheeler. This route, known as the St. Michael's 
 route, is long and uncertain. As a rule vessels cannot 
 enter Norton Sound until July ist. The voyage up 
 the river, i,8oo miles, occupies from eighteen to twenty 
 days; two trips at the most in the season can be 
 .elied upon. 
 
 If the water is open the trip from Seattle to St. Mi- 
 chael's will occupy from 12 to 14 days, and if conditions 
 are still favourable the trip to Dawson City another 15. 
 The voyage up the Yukon is characterised after the 
 stream has been well entered by magnificent scenery, 
 the banks here and there being dotted with Indian 
 Villages. These Indians do not resemble the " Red " 
 savages found farther east, but consist of several tribes 
 of the Innuk or Esquimaux peoples. Their manners 
 and customs are not attractive though some who have 
 been brought into connection with the Russian and 
 other missions have become a little more civilized. 
 I refer those who may be interested in them to Mr. 
 Potter's eleventh census report, mentioned in my 
 opening paragraphs, where they will find full details 
 of each tribe and their singularly repellent customs. 
 
50 
 
 THE KLONDIKE GOLDFIELDS, 
 
 Since alcoholic liquors have been introduced among 
 them other unattractive attributes have been added 
 to them. There is, I believe, in the neighbourhood of 
 the missions, an occasional demand for, and a reluc- 
 tant application of, soap. The upper reaches of the 
 river are picturesquely studded with numerous islands, 
 which amongst other things give harbour to swarms 
 of mosquitoes of aggravated dimensions, and exagge- 
 rated aggressiveness. Horse flies, and other winged 
 torments, are not wanting to add to the traveller's 
 discomfort. No doubt the same spirit which prompts 
 a man to rush where gold may be had for the finding, 
 sustains him under these and other drawbacks. I am 
 divided in my belief as to the quantity of game to be 
 found, at any rate in Alaskan districts — for Mr. Potter 
 states: " Game is scarce, considering the great stretches 
 of uninhabited country, and the Indian knowing every 
 game sign, and with no impediments, can scour over 
 the country and live, where a white man would starve." 
 On the other hand, from a leaflet issued by a transport 
 company lying before me, I read: "The Yukon basin 
 is an incomparable game country, an important factor 
 to the miners, in a land where provisions naturally 
 command high prices. The upper portion abounds 
 in moose, caribou, bear and small game, and the 
 rivers and smaller streams are alive with salmon, 
 white fish, trout, and other species. The lower 
 country is the breeding-ground of innumerable geese, 
 ducks and other fowl." Thus the company, but of 
 course they have an axe to grind, and, remember, 
 we are now talking, not of the Klondike district, 
 but of Alaska, and it is not probable that on the 
 
AND HOW TO GET THERE, 
 
 51 
 
 trail of gold anyone would turn aside for game ; 
 but there may be causes in the journey up the river 
 due to breakdown or what not, and a little fresh game 
 would be a very welcome addition to the canned and 
 preserved provisions forming the staple of travellers* 
 food. With regard to the fish I think there can be 
 no doubt, as all these northern rivers teem with them. 
 I have already given the cost of the journey from 
 Vancouver to Fort Cudahy, the present terminus, 
 though in the spring the route will be completed to 
 Dawson City. F-^w then, reckon that it takes 8 weeks 
 to get from Lou.on to Klondike and costs roundly 
 ;^50, for fares and food only, outfit and provisions will 
 come later, and remember also that if you decide on 
 this route you cannot possibly go this year, since 
 the navigation of the river closes early in September; 
 unless indeed you go prepared like Nansen to boldly 
 face all the rigours of an Arctic winter, and make the 
 frozen river your highway, triumphing by dogged 
 courage over rough packed ice, 50 degrees of frost, 
 scanty food and shelter, and all the other grim 
 obstacles of Arctic travel. It may be done perhaps 
 by someone. It is always the dauntless one who 
 achieves. Even in the fairy tales, it is the prince, who 
 dares the lions chained on either side, to enter 
 the treasure-holding castle, who faces the giant to 
 win the incomparable princess, and this is the spirit 
 roused by lust for gold that animated the daring 
 miner — himself often uncivilized, though white — latest 
 pioneer of civilization. Before I quit the Yukon here 
 is a pen picture of its two seasons. 
 
 " Here the summer is of the briefest. It endures 
 
5» 
 
 THE KLONDIKE GOLDFIELDS, 
 
 only for ten or twelve weeks, from about the middle 
 of June to the early part of September. Then an un- 
 ending panorama of extrordinary picturesqueness is 
 unfolded to the voyager. The banks are fringed with 
 flowers, carpeted with the all-pervading moss or 
 tundra. Birds countless in numbers and of infinite 
 variety in plumage, sing out a welcome from every 
 tree top. Pitch your tent where you will in mid- 
 summer, a bed of roses, a clump of poppies and a 
 bunch of blue bells will adorn your camping. But 
 high above this paradise of almost tropical exuberance 
 giant glaciers sleep in the summit of the mountain 
 wall, which rises up from a bed of roses. By Sep- 
 tember everything is changed. The bed of roses 
 has disappeared before the icy breath of the Winter 
 King, which sends the thermometer down to eighty 
 degrees below freezing point. The birds fly to the 
 southland, the white man to his cabin, the Indian to 
 his hut, and the bear to his sleeping-chamber in the 
 mountains. Every stream becomes a sheet of ice, 
 mountain and valley alike are covered with snow." 
 
 We will however suppose that on reaching Van- 
 couver you elect to go via Juneau, and the Lynn 
 Canal overland. As I said before, the American 
 strip of South-Eastern Alaska, from Mount St. Elias 
 down to British Columbia, is a resort for summer 
 tourists, on account of the magnificence and unusual 
 character of the coast scenery, so that with steamers 
 already plying and a number of private boats, 
 launches and other vessels, already in service, there 
 will be no difficulty in providing for the enormous 
 numbers of gold-seekers which are certain to be on the 
 
AND HOW TO GET THERE. 
 
 ^3 
 
 move there at the first favourable moment, and the 
 North American Transport Co. will doubtless be found 
 equal to the occasion. 
 
 I have given the distances along the various stages 
 from Juneau, and it remains to give you an idea of 
 the journey from that point. After Juneau, Healy 
 & Wilson's trading stores may be reached without 
 a very great deal of difficulty, but at Healy's all 
 traces of civilization are practically left behind, and 
 the real tug of war begins. Going up the Dyea 
 River five miles on the ice will bring one to the 
 mouth of the cafion. Here in the woods a comfort- 
 able camp can be easily arranged. The tent is pitched 
 on top of the snow, the poles and pins being pushed 
 down into it. While some are busily engaged in 
 building a fire and making a bed> the best cook of 
 the party prepares the supper. The camping place 
 beyond the caflon is a strip of woods some three 
 miles long known as Pleasant Camp. Its name is 
 something of a misnomer, for there is not ev^n a log 
 shanty there ; some woods to give a kind of shelter, 
 and, as everywhere else along the route, plenty of 
 snow. From here the ascent is gradual, and the 
 next and last camp in timber before crossing the 
 summit is known as Sheep Camp, where the summit 
 towers above you about 3,500 feet, but the pass is 
 some 500 feet lower. No further progress can be 
 made until a clear day, and sometimes the weather 
 continues bad for two or three weeks, the mountain 
 top hidden in thick clouds, and icy winds hurling the 
 new-fallen snow in every direction, or driving the 
 sleet in the face of anyone bold enough to stir out of 
 
54 
 
 THE KLONDIKE GOLDFIELDS, 
 
 camp and peep up at that almost precipitous wall of 
 snow and ice. But sunshine come;:> ul last, and the 
 wind grows still. 
 
 Now comes the tug of war — to get the outfit to the 
 summit For 600 feet every step must be cut in the 
 ice, and so steep is it that a person with a pack on his 
 back must continually bend forward to maintain his 
 equilibrium. The first load planted on the summit 
 of the pass, a shovel is stuck in the snow to mark the 
 spot ; then back for another pack, and fortunate is he 
 who gets his whole outfit up in a single day. Indians 
 may be hired to do the packing, and their rates vary 
 slightly, but the regular price has been five dollars a 
 hundredweight from the second bench to the summit, 
 or fifteen cents, a pound from Healy & Wilson's to 
 the lakes. These prices have been shaded a little 
 the past season, and some outfits were packed over 
 to the lakes at thirteen cents a pound. The reason 
 for this cut in price is that many miners insist on 
 doing their own packing, and that their work has 
 been seriously affected by a tramway device which 
 was operated last season with more or less success by 
 one Peterson, whose inventive genius led him to 
 believe that a simple arrangement of ropes and 
 pulleys would greatly help in getting outfits up the 
 steeper places. The descent for the first half mile is 
 steep, then a gradual slope to Lake Linderman, some 
 ten miles away. But there is little time for resting 
 and none for dreaming, as the edge of timber where 
 the camp must be made is seven miles from the 
 summit. Taking the camping outfit and sufficient 
 provisions for four or five days, the sleigh is loaded. 
 
 the res 
 snow, 
 The roi 
 outlet, I 
 easterlj 
 of this 
 four or 
 lake is 
 MudLi 
 "Ope 
 ing this 
 firm ice 
 foot of 
 timber 
 build a 
 River c 
 The coi 
 of a hoi 
 the east 
 on the 
 close at 
 safely e 
 make a 
 outfit ar 
 run the 
 scenery 
 many p 
 were aw 
 Horse 
 can be li 
 White h 
 about a 
 
AND HOW TO GET THERE, 
 
 II 
 
 the rest of the outfit is packed up or buried in the 
 snow, shovels being stuck up to mark the spot. 
 The rout... now lies seve i miles across the lake to its 
 outlet, down the outlet three or four miles in a north- 
 easterly direction to Lake Bennett, down to the foot 
 of this lake, twenty-five miles, then down the river 
 four or five miles the Takou Lake is reached. The 
 lake is some twenty miles long, and empties into 
 Mud Lake through an outlet three miles long. 
 
 "Opei "'I'-.erwill probably be passed before reach- 
 ing this point in the rivers connecting the lakes, and 
 firm ice at the sides affords good sledding, but at the 
 foot of Mud Lake a raft or boat must be built. Dry 
 timber can be found along the shores with which to 
 build a raft, which will take everything to the Lew 
 River caflon, about forty miles to the north-west. 
 The course down the lakes has been much in the form 
 of a horseshoe, and now bears to the west instead of 
 the east Before reaching the cafion a high cut bank 
 on the right hand side will give warning that it is 
 close at hand. Good river men have run the caflon 
 safely even with loaded rafts, but it is much surer to 
 make a landing on the right side and portage the 
 outfit around the caflon three-quarters of a mile and 
 run the raft through empty. The sameness of the 
 scenery on approaching the caflon is so marked that 
 many parties have got into the caflon before they 
 were aware of it Below the caflon are the White 
 Horse rapids — a bad piece of water : but the raft 
 can be lined down the right hand side until near the 
 White Horse, three miles below. This is a box caflon 
 about a hundred yards long and fifty in width, a chute 
 
 Ik 
 

 56 
 
 THE KLONDIKE GOLDFIELDS, 
 
 through which the water of the river, which is nearly 
 600 feet wide just above, rushes with maddening force. 
 But few have ever attempted to run it, and four of them 
 have been drowned. Of two men ^ ho made the 
 attempt in May, 1888, nothing was found save a 
 bundle of blankets. Below the White Horse another 
 raft is built, and the journey continued seventy-five 
 miles to Lake Le Barge. This usually requires three 
 days, if^ fter entering the lake solid ice is found per- 
 haps a mile from the inlet. Camp \z made on the 
 shore, and as the ice gets soft most of the sledding is 
 done in the early morning, it being sufficiently light 
 in May to start soon after midnight. This lake is 
 about forty-five miles long, and there is an island 
 about midway. Little snow will be found here late 
 in April, but it will be all glaie ice. After camping 
 on the island, a day's journey will make the foot of 
 the lake, and the sledding is completed. If one 
 expects to stay in the Coventry the sled should not be 
 thrown away, however, as it will prove useful later on. 
 A comfortable camp should be made here, and the 
 building of a boat commenced. This will require 
 from seven to ten days, and the method of prf:paring 
 lumber is novel to all who are unused to frontier life. 
 The trees selected should be sound and straight, and 
 twelve inches through the butt. A saw pit about six 
 feet high is built near the tree, and the tree felled and 
 cut into logs about twenty-five feet long. When all 
 is ready, neighbours are invited to the rolling bee to 
 help in placing the logs on the pit. To make good 
 lumber requires a sharp saw and experience, besides 
 hard work, \fter the pit is levelled and the log 
 
 peeled. < 
 exact CO 
 lined bo 
 then it i« 
 always 1 
 boards ; 
 pitched, 
 resumed, 
 linqua, 
 passed or 
 Here fou 
 stone to ( 
 the water 
 right han( 
 and thoug 
 kept in th 
 A few 
 manao-emi 
 Reef rapic 
 hand siae 
 them the ] 
 the Pelly 
 Lewis fro 
 first tradii 
 Harper's, 
 Continuing 
 the right; 
 on accoun 
 tributary c 
 called on a 
 Reliance. 
 is Forty-M 
 
AND HOW TO GET THERE. 
 
 57 
 
 peeled, a square is made on the smaller end, and an 
 exact counterpart on the other side : the log is then 
 lined both above and below and squared or slabbed, 
 then it is lined for the boards, an eighth of an inch 
 always being allowed for the saw cut. After the 
 boards are sawed, the boat is built, caulked, and 
 pitched, oars and poles made, and the journey 
 resumed. Going down the Lewis River, the Hoota- 
 linqua. Big Salmon, and Little Salmon Rivers are 
 passed on the right before reachmg the Five Fingers. 
 Here four large buttes stand like giant sentinels of 
 stone to dispute your lurther ingress into the country ; 
 the water, in five passages, runs swiftly between ; the 
 right hand passage is the only one which is practicable, 
 and though the water is swift, it is safe if the boat be 
 kept in the centre. 
 
 A few moments of strong pulling and careful 
 management and the boat is rapidly approaching the 
 Reef rapids, three miles below. Here again the right 
 hand siae insures safety, and having gone through 
 them the last dangerous water is passed. Next comes 
 the Pelly River, and the junction of the Pelly and 
 Lewis from the Yukon proper. At this point the 
 first trading post is reached. This is known as 
 Harper's, and is 510 riiles distant from Juneau. 
 Continuing the journey, Stewart River is passed on 
 the right ; then the White River on the left, so named 
 on account of its milky -looking water ; the next 
 tributary on the same side is Sixty-Mile Creek, so 
 called on account of its being sixty miles above Fort 
 Reliance. A hundred miles below, or the left side, 
 is Forty-Mile Creek, forty miles below is Fort Reliance. 
 
58 
 
 THE KLONDIKE GOLDFIELDSy 
 
 I'Hfl •^'1 
 
 Here the Yukon is over two miles in width, and on 
 the upper bank of Forty-Mile Creek is the principal 
 trading post cf the interior. This is the starting 
 point for all the mines, and is 750 miles from Juneau. 
 
 The physical difficulties of this route have been 
 described elsewhere, but necessarily every experience 
 is not alike so far as weather goes ; but there is no 
 manner of doubt a man must be prepared for the 
 severest strain of body and mind in traversing these 
 passes, streams and lakes. 
 
 A practicable trail is understood to exist from the 
 south, licar Teslin Lake, and might be opened up by 
 a waggon road as far as Pelly, whence supplies might 
 be forwarded by boat or scow. Over this trail last 
 year some forty head of cattle were driven without 
 loss. Good bunch grass was found along the trail 
 for a distance of over 1 50 miles. The height of the 
 pass is 2,800 to 3,000 feet above the level of the sea. 
 The rise is gradual, and the country generally is roll- 
 ing, with some table-lands, with good fishing along 
 the route, and plenty of large game. 
 
 Uninterrupted water communication might also be 
 maintained from the head of Teslin Lake to Circle 
 City, on Yukon River, a distance of 800 miles, 600 of 
 which would be in Canadian territory. Small steamers 
 of 1 50 tons could ply over this route, and three trips 
 in the season could be made, against one, or at most 
 two, at present 
 
 But it is stated that the Dominion Government 
 intends taking steps to render the journey less diffi- 
 cult A customs and police post will be established 
 just north of the British Columbia boundary beyond 
 
 the head 
 Estimate 
 building 
 way from 
 a distanc 
 over moi 
 Chilkoot 
 the south< 
 police poj 
 tances of 
 will be u 
 monthly I 
 help to t 
 line will b 
 head of tl 
 sent of th 
 asked to 
 have the 
 from the I 
 No difficu 
 way. 
 
 Colonel 
 Dominion 
 meeting, ai 
 did not cc 
 to place mi 
 no time is 
 individual 
 or four oil 
 organized 
 it is Arctic 
 The pres 
 
AND HOW TO GET THERE. 
 
 59 
 
 the head of the Lynn Canal at 60 degrees of latitude. 
 Estimates will be at once obtained for the cost of 
 building a waggon road and of a narrow-guage rail- 
 way from the coast to this post, over the mountains, 
 a distance of 70 to 80 miles, about 40 of which is 
 over mountains. This post, which will be where the 
 Chilkoot and White Passes converge, will command 
 the southern entrance to the whole territory. Mounted 
 police posts will be established from here on, at dis- 
 tances of 50 miles apart up to Fort Selkirk. These 
 will be used to open up a winter road over which 
 monthly mails will be sent by dog trains, also to give 
 help to travelling parties. If possible, a telegraph 
 line will be constructed over the mountains from the 
 head of the Lynn Canal to the first post. The con- 
 sent of the authorities of the United States will be 
 asked to a modus vivendi under which Canada will 
 have the right of way over the disputed territory 
 from the Lynn Canal to the first mounted police post. 
 No difficulty is anticipated in securing this right of 
 way. 
 
 Colonel Domville, a member of the Canadian 
 Dominion Parliament, speaking the other day at a 
 meeting, advocated the use of the Juneau route, and 
 did not consider it a matter of very great difficulty 
 to place men and supplies across the passes, provided 
 no time is lost. But the Colonel is speaking, not of 
 individual prospectors, or even small parties of three 
 or four or more, but of a properly equipped and 
 organized body of men under his own leadership, but 
 it is Arctic voyaging all the same. 
 
 The press is full of warnings as to the danger and 
 
6o 
 
 THE KLONDIKE GOLDFIELDS, 
 
 difficulty to be encountered, and full of forecasts of 
 the gloomiest description, with regard to probable 
 mortality amongst those who reach and remain through 
 the winter in the district. On this latter head I shall 
 have something to say presently. There is one 
 thing it is absolutely imperative to bear in mind, atnd 
 that is supplies of food and clothing must be taken, 
 indeed the police have already turned back many 
 who had less than one hundred pounds weight of 
 food ; it will be suicidal to leave anything to chance. 
 This is what Mr. J. W. Mackay, the " Silver King," 
 says about the advice he would give to anyone 
 going :— 
 
 " Prepare for great privations and perhaps utter 
 disappointment. The climate is intensdy hot for a 
 few weeks, and dreadfully cold for many months. 
 There is certain to be a scanty supply of food next 
 winter. No one should go who is not provided 
 against Arctic weather and against starvation, nor 
 without ready cash. The well and strong will 
 naturally fare better than the weak. A dozen young 
 men have asked me already about going there. / 
 told them that if a man had a thousand dollars^ a good 
 coftstitution^ and no wife and children^ he could go there 
 or anywhere^* 
 
 That I take it puts the matter in a nutshell. With 
 regard to the sort of provisions required there ?♦*€ 
 many admirable preparations in use in the present 
 day, such as our early Arctic voyagers never dreamt 
 of, and their possession makes any expedition of the 
 present day almost a feather-bed affair by comparison. 
 One thing to remember is, that scurvy is always apt 
 
 to attack 
 
 regions, c 
 
 therefore 
 
 certainly 
 
 miner can 
 
 boil it do' 
 
 nourishing 
 
 have not t 
 
 speak fron: 
 
 rations anc 
 
 should all : 
 
 prices at t 
 
 there is no 
 
 to the cost 
 
 idea of wi 
 
 Victoria, o 
 
 deal lower 
 
 much enha 
 
 Flour, per loo] 
 Beef, per lb. 
 Bacon, per lb. 
 Moose Hams, 
 Moose Hams, j 
 Rice, per lb. 
 Tea, per lb. 
 Coffee, per lb. 
 Butter, per lb. 
 Eggs, per doz. 
 Potatoes, peril 
 
 There can 
 prices will ri 
 on foot for t 
 certain sang 
 dence as to 
 
 L 
 
AND HOW TO GET THERE. 
 
 6i 
 
 the 
 son. 
 apt 
 
 to attack dwellers in the Arctic and close adjacent 
 regions, owing to the scarcity of leguminous food, 
 therefore canned fruits and vegetables she Id 
 certainly form part of the supplies. Of course the 
 miner can gather moss, which grows plentifully, and 
 boil it down for food, but although this is I believe 
 nourishing, it is also excessively nasty and insipid. I 
 have not tried it in my own proper person so cannot 
 speak from experience. Desiccated soups, meat prepa- 
 rations and their like, biscuits, flour, potatoes and tea 
 should all find a place. I append here a list of market 
 prices at the diggings, and if the prices seem high 
 there is no very great amount of profit derived owing 
 to the cost of transport. The list itself furnishes an 
 idea of what is most in demand. At Vancouver, 
 Victoria, or Seattle, prices would rule a very great 
 deal lower, but even there the great demand would 
 much enhance prices. Here is the list : — 
 
 Flour, pen oo lbs. £2 
 
 los. to £2^ 
 
 Tobacco, per lb 
 
 8s. 
 
 Beef, per lb 
 
 4s. to 8s. 
 
 Canned Fruit, per can ... 
 
 9s. 
 
 Bacon, per lb 
 
 3s. 3d. 
 
 Coal Oil, per gallon 
 
 I OS. 
 
 Moose Hams, each ... 
 
 ... £(> 
 
 Lemons, each 
 
 IS. 
 
 Moose Hams, per lb. 
 
 ... 8s. 
 
 Oranges, each 
 
 2S. 
 
 Rice, per lb 
 
 ... 3s. 
 
 Liquors, per drink 
 
 2S. 
 
 Tea, per lb 
 
 I2S. 
 
 Miners' Picks, each ... £1 
 
 8s. 
 
 Coffee, per lb 
 
 ... 9s. 
 
 Shovels, each £t^ 8s. to ^3 
 
 I2S. 
 
 Butter, per lb 
 
 lOS. 
 
 Shoes, per pair ... ;^i to ;^l 
 
 123. 
 
 Eggs, per doz 
 
 I2S. 
 
 Rubber Boots, per pair, 
 
 
 Potatoes, per lb. 
 
 lOS. 
 
 £2 8s. to £z 
 
 I2S. 
 
 There can be no question, however, that next season 
 prices will rule lower, because several enterprises are 
 on foot for the purpose of supplying all needs. I find 
 certain sanguine persons speaking with great confi- 
 dence as to what will be done in the spring — that the 
 
 s ' 
 
63 
 
 THE KLONDIKE GOLDFIELDS, 
 
 difficulties of the way and of life there are exag- 
 gerated — that the Klondike can be reached in a little 
 over five weeks. In this connection I quote the 
 Canadian Minister of the Interior, speaking under 
 date July 23rd last : — \ 
 
 " I think it only proper to say that any person who 
 contemplates going into Yukon territory should make 
 very careful enquiries as to length of time it will take 
 to go, and as to the means he will have of sustaining 
 himself after he gets there. The shortest time within 
 which communication has been had with Fort Cudahy 
 is six weeks y and that took place under the most favour- 
 able circumstances. The amount of provisions that 
 can be taken into that country at the present moment 
 is extremely limited, and if any considerable number 
 of people go in without making special provision for 
 their maintenance this fall there is very likely to be 
 starvation during the coming winter. One thing 
 ought to be clearly understood — the Government 
 cannot assume any responsibility whatever for getting 
 provisions into that country to supply any people 
 who may go in there ' in consequence of the gold 
 excitement and who may find themselves short of 
 food. The difficulty is largely one of transportation, 
 and no means exist of overcoming this difficulty 
 during the present season." 
 
 The italics are mine. The impulse to "rush" is 
 intelligible, since no one wants to be last, although I 
 believe there v/ill be room for all and to spare — yet I 
 repeat again, " Look before you leap." I cannot urge 
 too strongly on all intending gold-hunters the neces- 
 sity of thorough preparedness. The papers publish the 
 
 names of 
 
 ful and r 
 
 remainde 
 
 return gc 
 
 newly-dis 
 
 but who 
 
 unfortuna 
 
 whose he 
 
 last failed 
 
 cumbed t 
 
 bones wh 
 
 Snows" ^ 
 
 white mar 
 
 bosom — f( 
 
 Earth, wh 
 
 hoards to 
 
 voice tha 
 
 pursuers ; 
 
 globe in \ 
 
 exercise f( 
 
 Howeve 
 
 nearest po 
 
 of shelter 
 
 across the 
 
 sarcasm, h 
 
 he find.' 
 
 can trust 
 
 Pall Mall 
 
 issue of th( 
 
 " Dawsoi 
 
 although si 
 
 it is said to 
 
AND HOW TO GET THERE, 
 
 63 
 
 names of those fortunate ones who have been success- 
 ful and return to live in ease, perhaps luxury, for the 
 remainder of their days — others who next year may 
 return gold-laden will similarly leap into notice like 
 newly-discovered stars — all these can be easily counted, 
 but who shall furnish us with the long roll of those 
 unfortunates who have gone under in the struggle? 
 whose hopes have perished, whose hearts have at 
 last failed them ; whose once sturdy frames have suc- 
 cumbed to endless profitless toil? Where do their 
 bones whiten and rot? Ask "Our Lady of the 
 Snows" where she has enshrouded them with her 
 white mantle, or locked them fast in her frost-bound 
 bosom — forgotten. They have paid tribute to the 
 Earth, which refused like a miser to part with its 
 hoards to them. Gold will have its victims, and no 
 voice that can be raised will ever check its eager 
 pursuers ; but here, more than in any region of the 
 globe in which it has been found, it is necessary to 
 exercise foresight and caution. 
 
 However, we will suppose our miner has reached the 
 nearest point to the Klondike that offers a prospect 
 of shelter and sustenance, called by our relatives 
 across the sea, with that grandiloquence that is half 
 sarcasm, half earnestness, Dawson City. What does 
 he find .' Well, accounts differ. Everyone feels he 
 can trust an eminently respectable journal like the 
 Pall Mall Gazette, I quote the following from its 
 issue of the ninth. 
 
 " Dawson City, the centre of the new mining region, 
 although sixty-five miles distant from the Klondike, 
 it is said to be a typical mining camp, minus the guns 
 
 I 
 
 !■■■ 
 
64 
 
 THE KLONDIKE GOLDFIELDS, 
 
 The British Government enforces its laws in Dawson, 
 and those laws prohibit the use of firearms, so few 
 men carry guns. The laws of the camp are enforced 
 by mounted police, whose captain is a civil officer. 
 Though there are said to be 3,000 people in Dawson, 
 few houses have been built, for the principal reason 
 that lumber is ;^20 per 1,000 feet. 1 he general fear is, 
 of course, that there will be great suffering there this 
 winter, and it will be increased, it is expected, by the 
 rush of unprepared prospectors, who sailed for the 
 new fields immediately on learning what luck had be- 
 fallen those who have but recently returned. * I am 
 afraid,' said one of the influential miners who re- 
 turned in a San Francisco boat, * that all the talk and 
 excitement will cause such a stampede to the north- 
 west that there will be great suffering during next 
 winter and spring. Still, if people are ordinarily 
 careful, there is no occasion for any such thing. 
 There are many good things that can be said about 
 Dawson City beside the gold that has made it famous. 
 In my own way I want to tell the people of some 
 of these good qualities, as well as the business 
 and social conditions, and how matters are con- 
 ducted there. Speculation is already the ruling 
 idea. A purchaser inspects a claim that he thinks 
 he should like to buy. He offers just what he 
 thinks it is worth. There is no skirmishing over 
 figures, the owner either accepts or refuses and 
 that is the end of it. With this claim goes the sea- 
 son's work. By that I mean the great pile of earth 
 that may contain thousands or may not be worth the 
 expense necessary to run it throught he sluice. That 
 
 is a cha 
 
 anythin 
 
 "'Id 
 
 single c 
 
 are still \ 
 
 In testir 
 
 fifteen U 
 
 streak h 
 
 to gathe 
 
 consists ( 
 
 ing it to 
 
 there is ( 
 
 of men b 
 
 to hoist 
 
 each weij 
 
 until spri 
 
 buys a cl 
 
 own chan 
 
 "'It n 
 
 the mine 
 
 moral tov 
 
 or no qua 
 
 there is ( 
 
 principle 
 
 the gambi 
 
 and play 
 
 some big 
 
 ;^io to dr 
 
 is an ordii 
 
 been any 
 
 quarrelson 
 
 and that 11 
 
AND HOW TO GET THERE. 
 
 65 
 
 is a chance one must take, however, and few have lost 
 anything by it this season. 
 
 " * I do not know in the whole Klondike region a 
 single claim that has not paid handsomely, and there 
 are still hundreds of claims that have not been worked. 
 In testing a claim the proprietor sinks a hole — say, 
 fifteen feet, and then tries a pan of dirt. If the pay 
 streak has been reached he sets to work in earnest 
 to gather in more of the precious metal. This process 
 consists of building a fire around the entire circle, allow- 
 ing it to burn through the night. The next morning 
 there is enough loose dirt lying about to keep a squad 
 of men busy throughout the day. I have known men 
 to hoist in a day as much as 250 buckets of soil, 
 each weighing 250 pounds. This dirt is not disturbed 
 until spring, when it is washed out ; and when a man 
 buys a claim he buys the dump also, but he takes his 
 own chances on the latter. 
 
 " ' It may be said with absolute truth,' continued 
 the miner, 'that Dawson City is one of the most 
 moral towns of its kind in the world. There is little 
 or no quarrelling, and no brawls of any kind, though 
 there is considerable drinking and gambling. The 
 principle sport with the mining men is found round 
 the gambling table. There they gather after nightfall 
 and play until late hours in the morning. They have 
 some big games, too, it sometimes costing as much as 
 _;^io to draw a card. A game of ;^200 as the stakes 
 is an ordinary event. But with all that there has not 
 been any decided trouble. If a man is fussy and 
 quarrelsome he is quietly told to get out of the game, 
 and that is the end of it. Many people have an idea 
 
66 
 
 THE KLONDIKE GOLDFIELDS, 
 
 that Dawson City is completely isolated, and can 
 communicate with the outside world only once in 
 every twelve months. That is a mistake. Circle 
 City, only a few miles away, has a mail once each 
 month, and there we have our mails addressed. It is 
 true the cost is pretty high — a dollar a letter and two 
 dollars for paper — yet by that expenditure of money 
 we are able to keep in direct communication with our 
 friends on the outside. In the way of public institu- 
 tions our camp is at present without any, but by the 
 next season we shall have a church, a music-hall, 
 school-house and hospital. This last institution will 
 be under the direct control of the Sisters of Mercy, 
 who have already been stationed for a long time at 
 Circle City and Forty-Mile Camp. 
 
 " 'The impressions seem to prevail that the mines are 
 close to Dawson City. That is a mistake. The rich 
 creeks are fifteen miles off, and it is a day's journey 
 to them. The camp there is as pretty a place as one 
 desires to see. The white tents and huts of the 
 miners are scattered along the banks of the creeks or 
 built on the mountain sides, as convenience or fancy 
 dictates. I know of no place in the whole north-west 
 or in the world, for that matter, where a man with a 
 little capital can do so well. There is an opening for 
 every kind of business, and I have no doubt that next 
 season will see the town flooded with men of all 
 callings.' 
 
 *' Notwithstanding the somewhat rosy picture painted 
 by this miner, Mr. J. Edward Spurr, of the United 
 States Geological Survey, who recently made an 
 expedition through Alaska, advises people to keep 
 
 away, 
 intendi] 
 Many r 
 failure, 
 Comj 
 the old 
 of a pa 
 country, 
 horrors 
 modern 
 camp s« 
 located 
 3.000 fe( 
 ordinary 
 civilised : 
 ago he ^ 
 hardship* 
 badly brc 
 2,000 grc 
 majority 
 The stea 
 allow no 
 uncommo 
 last week 
 represent 
 large pro] 
 these 2,0c 
 At the de 
 was buriei 
 among the 
 But I 1 
 Moss's sta 
 
AND HOW TO GET THERE. 
 
 «7 
 
 away. *My advice,* says he, 'to the average man 
 intending to go to the Yukon goldfields is to stay out. 
 Many men go there every year and suffer hardship, 
 failure, loss of capital, and oftentimes loss of health.' " 
 
 Compare that with this : — Frank Moss, a miner, of 
 the old Montana boom, who four years ago was one 
 of a party of Americans first to visit the Klondike 
 country, returned a few days ago, and tells a story of 
 horrors and starvation seldom equalled even in 
 modern novels. He describes Klondike as a placer 
 camp seven miles long and thirteen miles wide, 
 located in a sink, walled in by boulders of rock 
 3,000 feet high. Gold, he says, abounds, but no 
 ordinary man can stand the hardships of the un- 
 civilised region. When Moss left his home four years 
 ago he was a sturdy fellow over 6 ft. tall. From 
 hardships and privations he is a cripple for life and 
 badly broken in health. In three years he saw over 
 2,000 graves made in the Klondike basin, a large 
 majority of their occupants dying from starvation. 
 The steamship companies bring in all food and 
 allow no private importation, consequently it is not 
 uncommon to go for weeks without food. The gold 
 last week brought in to Seattle, Moss says, does not 
 represent the findings of individual shippers, but a 
 large proportion was confiscated from the effects of 
 these 2,000 miners who fell a prey to the hardships. 
 At the death of a man possessed of dust, his body 
 was buried without a coffin, and the dust divided 
 among those who cared for him. 
 
 But I have seen this denied somewhere, and Mr. 
 Moss's statement of the mortality ridiculed. 
 
68 
 
 THE KLONDIKE GOLDFIELDS. 
 
 Assistant-Surgeon A. E. Wills reported in 1895 on 
 the climate, mode of living, and diseases commonly- 
 met with. He says : — 
 
 " Miners are a very mixed class of people. They 
 represent many nationalities and come from all 
 climates. Their lives are certainly not enviable. The 
 regulation ' miners' cabin * is 12 feet by 14 feet, with 
 walls 6 feet and gables 8 feet in height. The roof is 
 heavily earthed, and the cabin is generally very warm. 
 Two, and sometimes three or four men will occupy a 
 house of this size. The ventilation is usually bad. 
 Thone miners who do not work their claims during 
 the winter confine themselves in these small huts 
 most of the time. Very often they become indolent 
 and carelesSf only eating those things which are most 
 easily cooked or prepared. During the busy time in 
 summer, when they are 'shovelling in,* they work 
 hard and for long hours, sparing little time for eating 
 and much less for cooking. This manner of living is 
 quite common among beginners, and soon leads to 
 H ability and sometimes to scurvy. . . . The 
 diseases mcjt with in this country are dyspepsia, 
 anaemia, scurvy caused by improperly cooked food, 
 sameness of diet, overwork, want of fresh vegetables, 
 overheated and badly ventilated houses ; rheumatism, 
 pneumonia, bronchitis, enteritis, cystitis, and other 
 acute diseases from exposure to wet and cold ; debility 
 and chronic diseases due to excesses. . . . Men 
 should be sober, strong, and healthy. They should 
 be practical men, able to adapt themselves quickly to 
 their surroundings. . . . It is also very important 
 to consider their temperaments. Men should be of 
 
 cheerfii 
 Tiiose 
 good w 
 the cc 
 pessimi 
 The 
 matter, 
 " Eigl 
 sheet-in 
 80 deg. 
 and pijii 
 lot of t 
 his com( 
 The loa 
 Dawson 
 in a Stat 
 creeks, w 
 kinds are 
 and if fo 
 goes to t 
 creeks ai 
 dangers 
 climate a 
 these sho 
 lust for g 
 to better 
 " It has 
 there will 
 Klondike 
 them wil 
 the steps 
 during th( 
 
n 
 
 AND HOW TO GET THERE. 
 
 69 
 
 cheerful, hopeful dispositions, and willing workers. 
 Those of sullen morose natures, although they may be 
 good workers, are very apt, as soon as the novelty of 
 the country wears off, to become dissatisfied, 
 pessimistic, and melancholy." 
 
 The Times of the 2nd, amongst other interesting 
 matter, says : — 
 
 " Eight months of semi-darkness in a tent with a 
 sheet-iron stove, and a temperature from 60 deg. to 
 80 deg. below zero, thawing out the pay-dirt with fires 
 and piling it up to be washed in the summer, is the 
 lot of the industrious gold-seeker, who may add to 
 his comfort by building a log-hut if he feels disposed. 
 The loafers congregate in the towns. Fort Cudahy or 
 Dawson City, in the winter, where they pass the time 
 in a state of chronic drunkenness. On the remoter 
 creeks, where the pay-dirt is so rich, supplies of all 
 kinds are very costly — flour £10 per sack of loolb.— 
 and if food runs short or a pack train is delayed food 
 goes to the highest bidder. There is no credit on the 
 creeks and very little in the towns. These are the 
 dangers most to be feared on the Klondike. The 
 climate and the toil are easier things to face, though 
 these should daunt all who have not an overwhelming 
 lust for gold. Excitement and adventure can be had 
 to better advantage in other goldfields. 
 
 " It has been stated, probably with much truth, that 
 there will be 30,000 miners on the headwaters of the 
 Klondike before winter. How large a proportion of 
 them will ever return depends in some measure on 
 the steps which the Canadian Government may take 
 during the next few weeks to insure that a sufficient 
 
 I:* 
 
 ! 
 
70 
 
 THE KLONDIKE GOLDFIELDS, 
 
 supply of food — bacon and beans and flour — is taken 
 into the camps before the rivers are blocked, for, 
 although supplies can be got in by trail from Juneau 
 with dog sledges during the winter, a storm or 
 accident to the pack train might mean death by 
 starvation to hundreds, who, by the irony of fate, 
 might possess sufficient wealth to buy food for its 
 weight in gold dust. Another matter demanding the 
 immediate attention of the authorities is the establish- 
 ment of some tribunal, with a sufficiently powerful 
 body of police to carry out its decrees. The old 
 Cariboo mining camps contained some of the worst 
 scoundrels in America, but owing to the inflexible 
 justice of the late Sir Matthew Begbie, human life 
 was respected in those camps as it had been in no 
 other mining camp of Western America, and the 
 prestige of British law has since stood so high in that 
 province that a strong Judge should be able to uphold 
 it without difficulty in the new diggings. The whisky 
 traffic will have to be controlled with a strong hand, 
 as its effects on the Indian population have already 
 become horribly apparent. Smuggling, unfortunately, 
 is easy, as the international boundary is near by, and 
 the sunless winter days give every opportunity for 
 evading the police. There will probably be some 
 trouble between the Canadian and American miners 
 until the boundary question is definitely settled ; but 
 the official reports which have been received up to the 
 present make no reference to any friction. The 
 American element greatly preponderates, and with 
 this new inrush the Canadians will find themselves in 
 a very small minority." 
 
 I am 
 
 abstinen 
 
 the sea: 
 
 Keep ofl 
 
 kind of 
 
 they giv( 
 
 or half a 
 
 carried. 
 
 alcohol fc 
 
 It belong 
 
 to very r; 
 
 and in his 
 
 continued 
 
 return sti 
 
 the expec 
 
 health of 
 
 say this w 
 
 was one o 
 
 Revertii 
 
 following 
 
 what it is 
 
 journals. 
 
 Gazette, G, 
 
 " Dawso 
 
 a big danc( 
 
 women. ]^ 
 
 go in and 
 
 Everything 
 
 percentage 
 
 Frequently 
 
 women nu£ 
 
 restaurants. 
 
AND HOW TO GET THERE, 
 
 71 
 
 I am not a total abstainer, nor do I advocate lotal 
 abstinence, but I know if you want to last through 
 the season at Klondike, you must be temperate. 
 Keep off alcoholic liquors. They are the very worst 
 kind of stimulant for this kind of work. The fillip 
 they give is mon> evanescent than that of good cocoas, 
 or half a dozen other things that can be conveniently 
 carried. Read Nansen's book, and you will learn that 
 alcohol formed a most insignificant item of his supplies. 
 It belonged to the medicine-chest and was resorted 
 to very rarely, yet after experiencing the hardest toil, 
 and in his own sledge journey the most hazardous and 
 continued severe exertions, he and all his companions 
 return strong, sound and healthy. The doctor to 
 the expedition positively lamented that the superb 
 health 01" his charges left him nothing to do. I don't 
 say this was because they used little alcohol, but this 
 was one of the causes, and not a slight one. 
 
 Reverting to life at Dawson City I quote the 
 following from one Mr, Joseph Ladue — take it for 
 what it is worth r I have seen it repeated in many 
 journals, not of the class of the Times^ Pall Mall 
 Gazette, Globe and others. 
 
 " Dawson is not without its amusements. There is 
 a big dance hall witl an ort-hestra and some 15 or 20 
 women. No ad mis; ion fee is charged. " You must 
 go in and dance -^-id patronise the establishment. 
 Everything is 50 cents a drink. The women get a 
 percentage of the receipts for dancing with the miners. 
 Frequently when the miners feel flush they give the 
 women nuggets." There are ten saloons and three 
 restaurants. According to Ladue, the saloons are 
 
 
 t 
 
72 
 
 THE KLONDIKE GOLDFIELDS, 
 
 lavishly fitted up, and freely decorated with oils and 
 water-colours. One of the bars cost ;^I50 to furnish. 
 The restaurants all do a thriving business, charging 
 6s, for a meal consisting of bacon, beans, bread, coffee, 
 cheese, and dried fruits. There is already a school at 
 Circle City, and another is now being built at Dawson. 
 Catholic, English, and Presbyterian churches are all 
 being built, and will be finished before winter sets in. 
 Dawson nas no theatre, but a travelling company tours 
 the district. According to Ladue, "they are real 
 good." " They give all sorts of plays, Uncle Tom's 
 Cabin, Old Kentucky, Camille the Newsboy, and others 
 of the same character, changing their bill every night. 
 Dawson is to have a theatre this winter. There are 
 two physicians in the place who charge according to 
 a man's financial standing. One miner had a finger 
 amputated, and paid £\o for the operation. Potatoes, 
 barley, oats, turnips, lettuces, radishes, and cabbages 
 can be grown in small quantities, but not enough to 
 support the inhabitants. Thers is a barber's shop 
 with a zinc bath tub. Several women have sewing 
 mc.chines, and a few pianos are to be found in miners' 
 cabins." 
 
 But from Dawson City to the nearest gold claims it 
 is l6 miles, and in many instances very much more. 
 So that if there is any mining to be done at all in the 
 winter these journeys must be seriously reckoned 
 with. I assume, however, that if dogs can be pro- 
 cured and fed (which latter is doubtful) they would 
 soon rattle you over on a decent sledge. During 
 eight months of winter, suppose you are encamped 
 near your claim, your occupation would couiust in 
 
 thawine 
 convenic 
 course il 
 as you 
 those ru 
 course, ( 
 optimist 
 
 I have 
 and at v 
 purchase( 
 reliable ; 
 sets dow ■ 
 food at £ 
 Seattle, a 
 to arrang 
 through a 
 in advanc 
 the pecul 
 Nansen's 
 from any 
 special ch; 
 of their ti 
 and I lam 
 of slaught 
 I have 
 expressed 
 luteiy in 
 has been 
 Yukon ' ^11 
 
a 
 
 AND HOW TO GET THERE. 
 
 73 
 
 thawing " pay dirt " with big fires, and putting it in 
 convenient heaps for washing in summer, and of 
 course it may turn out that a fortune or even two, 
 as you may reckon " fortunes," may lie hidden in 
 those rugged heaps, or it may be — blank. But, of 
 course, chance is part of the game, and helps the 
 optimist an vi pessimist ahke. 
 
 " Hope springs eternal in the human breast, 
 Man never is, but always to be — blest." 
 
 I have been at some pains to ascertain hov\ , where, 
 and at what price, dogs for sledge hauling can be 
 purchased, but I have been unable to get at anything 
 reliable ; one returned miner, who professes to know, 
 sets dow ■• the cost of two dogs and their necessary 
 food at ;^30. They can be got at Vancouver, Victoria, 
 Seattle, and Juneau. All the same it would be wise 
 to arrange beforehand, as I daresay could be done 
 through an agent of the C.P.R., to purchase your dogs 
 in advance, and have them waiting your arrival ; for 
 the peculiarities of these dogs I refer my readers to 
 Nansen's book, which I imagine can now be obtained 
 from any public library. He does not devote any 
 special chapter to them, or indeed make any speciality 
 of their treatment, but they interested me greatly, 
 and I lamented with him the necessity he was put to 
 of slaughtering some to feed the others. 
 
 I have said elsewhere that some doubt had been 
 expressed as to whether the new fields lay abso- 
 lutely in Dominion Territory or not. This doubt 
 has been effectively cleared up. In going by the 
 Yukon ' ^"l , of course the voyager is in American 
 
74 
 
 THE KLONDIKE GOLDFIELDS, 
 
 territory until he reaches that point where the h*ne 
 of demarcation and the river meet, and after leav- 
 ing Vancouver or Victoria he is in American terri- 
 tory up to Juneau, from either of those two points 
 he is in Dominion territory. I mention this be- 
 cause at one time disputes threatened as between 
 American immigrants and British or Canadians, 
 and difficulties seemed possible if we may judge 
 from the open boast of an American paper that it 
 is the intention of the American miners, as soon as 
 they are numerically strong enough, to hoist the stars 
 and stripes. 
 
 The following from the Financial News is interest- 
 ing in connection with this subject. The most 
 sensible view of the subject hitherto expressed by 
 an American paper appears to be that of the New 
 York Tribune^ which has said editorially : — 
 
 "Americans who go to the Klondike must under- 
 stand that they are going upon British soil and are 
 making themselves amenable to British laws. Nor 
 should this fact be overlooked : that in permitting an 
 army of aliens to swarm over the line and carry away 
 millions of dollars in gold, the Canadian Government 
 is acting with generosity that should be ? ppreciated 
 and reciprocated. One of the chief complaints 
 against the Chinese has been that they come to the 
 country merely to get what they can out of it, and 
 then go back with the proceeds. That is exactly what 
 American 'ners are doing in the Klondike region. 
 They are entering British territory, getting all they 
 can out of it, and then coming back to the United 
 States with their wealth. That the Canadian Govern- 
 
 
 ment she 
 
 kindly « 
 
 facilitate 
 
 two nati( 
 
 tageous 
 
 been sai 
 
 reasonabl 
 
 motives c 
 
 to their 1 
 
 contrast t 
 
 foreigners 
 
 the legisl 
 
 chastening 
 
 jingo edit 
 
 denounce 
 
 excelienc( 
 
 But the 
 
 startling c 
 
 fact, as is ( 
 
 the forei| 
 
 American 
 
 a tax upo 
 
 recently p< 
 
 3 cents per 
 
 foreign-bor 
 
 amble of t 
 
 can be renc 
 
 verbal alte 
 
 Klondike a 
 
 ment print( 
 
 the Penns> 
 
 the Amerii 
 
AND HOW TO GET THERE. 
 
 75 
 
 ment should freely permit this is a manifestation of a 
 kindly spirit towards this country which should 
 facilitate the adjustment of all relations between the 
 two nations upon a friendly and mutually advan- 
 tageous basis." Something to the same effect has 
 been said by the Philadelphia Record^ which very 
 reasonably points out that " whatever may be the 
 motives of British and colonial statesmen in holding 
 to their liberal commercial and industrial policy, the 
 contrast between the inhospitality of our laws towards 
 foreigners and the welcome extended to the latter by 
 the legislation of the British Empire should have a 
 chastening effect upon our buncombe orators and 
 jingo editors when they shall next feel tempted to 
 denounce Great Britain as the grabbing power par 
 excellence." 
 
 But these expressions of American opinion are in 
 startling contrast with American action. America, in 
 fact, as is common knowledge, does her best to prevent 
 the foreign labourer from competing with the 
 American workman, even to the extent of imposing 
 a tax upon him. The State of Pennsylvania has 
 recently passed a law providing for an imposition of 
 3 cents per head per day on all companies employing 
 foreign-born unnaturalised mill workmen. The pre- 
 amble of this measure is a most interesting study, and 
 can be rendered still more instructive if the very slight 
 verbal alteiations required to fit it to the condition of 
 Klondike are made, and the resulting suggested enact- 
 ment printed side by side with that already passed by 
 the Pennsylvania Legislature. We shall then have 
 the American argument agamst the admission of 
 
 1 
 
 IS 
 
76 
 
 THE KLONDIKE GOLDFIELDS, 
 
 American diggers to Klondike put in a very straight- 
 forward and forcible fashion. So : — 
 
 The Actual Pennsylvanian 
 Preamble. 
 
 " Whereas, it is the duty of the 
 Government to enact such laws as 
 shall protect the citizen labourers 
 of America against the labourers 
 of foreign nations who are brought 
 in direct competition with our own 
 workmen in nearly all the different 
 branches of employment ; and 
 whereas, thousands of foreign 
 labourvirs come to this State for the 
 purpose of obtaining employmem, 
 without any intentions of becomii g 
 citizens, and who disclaim any alle- 
 giance to this State or nation, very 
 few of whom ever pay any taxes for 
 the maintenance of local, Stae, 
 or natural government, and are 
 thus brought into unj ist compe- 
 tition with the tax-paying American 
 labourers, and greatly impair ilieir 
 welfare by depriving them of their 
 employment, or preventing them 
 from receiving fair compensation 
 for their labour." 
 
 The Preamble to the Pro- 
 posed Canadian Act. 
 
 " Whereas it is the duty of the 
 Government to enact such Liws as 
 shall protect the citizen labourers 
 of Canada against the labourers 
 of foreign nations who are brought 
 in direct competition with our own 
 workmen in gold mining in the 
 Klondike ; and whereas thousands 
 of foreign labourers come to this 
 district for the purpose of obtaining 
 gold and emp'oyment, without any 
 intentions of becoming citizens, 
 and who disclaim any allegiance 
 to this Dominion or to the British 
 nation, very few of whom ever pay 
 any taxes for the n\aintenance of 
 local, provincial or national go- 
 vernment, and are thus bruug t in- 
 to unjust competition with the tax- 
 paying Canadian labourers, and 
 greatly impair their welfare by 
 depriving them of their employ- 
 ment, or preventing them from re- 
 ceiving full compensation for their 
 labour." 
 
 I think, however, the difficulties here touched upon 
 will vanish by the time things are in working order, 
 in the spring, and as far as law and order in the 
 diggings are concerned, the Mounted Police may be 
 trusted to maintain them, and if accounts to hand are 
 true Dawson City already boasts an orderly com- 
 munity. If anyone falls ill within reach of the 
 settlement, both medical aid and spiritual advice can 
 
 be obtair 
 
 with mui 
 
 with resp 
 
 miners. 
 
 of deceai 
 
 character 
 
 It is state 
 
 Yukon, tl 
 
 to the G 
 
 statute la 
 
 sack of gc 
 
 safe ! Ar 
 
 in gold ii 
 
 door ! ! r 
 
 the sake c 
 
 lock, I she 
 
 in a "stacl 
 
 certificates 
 
 my relativ 
 
 Dawson C 
 
 the minini 
 
 following i 
 
 not prepari 
 
 grain of tn 
 
 " Whatei 
 
 at the new 
 
 no doubt o 
 
 the leadincf 
 
 make thing 
 
 ing are the 
 
 establishmt 
 
 ** Board m 
 
AND HOW TO GET THERE 
 
 77 
 
 be obtained, and although funerals are not conducted 
 with much ostentation, everything necessary is done 
 with respect for the dead by the rough but kindly 
 miners. The tales as to confiscation of the property 
 of deceased miners by friends and neighbours is 
 characterised by Dawsonians as " malicious lying." 
 It is stated to be one of the unwritten laws of the 
 Yukon, that all property so left shall be turned over 
 to the Government and disposed of according to 
 statute laws. It is also asserted that one can hang a 
 sack of gold dust outside his cabin and it is perfectly 
 safe ! And that one saloon-keeper has over ;^30,ooo 
 in gold in a little stack {sic) and he never locks his 
 door ! ! Reads prettily doesn't it ? I don't think, for 
 the sake of saving the trouble of turning a key in a 
 lock, I should leave ^30,000 (if I had it) lying around 
 in a " stack," even if the miners all possessed moral 
 certificates, and Sunday-school references, and were 
 my relatives into the bargain. Be this how it may, 
 Dawson City is apparently a great improvement on 
 the mining camps of earlier years. Though the 
 following is probably the work of a humourist, I am 
 not prepared to say there is not rather more than a 
 grain of truth in it. 
 
 " Whatever may be the chances for fortune making 
 at the new diggings on the Yukon river, there can be 
 no doubt of the desire on the part of the proprietor of 
 the leading and most xurious hotel at Klondike to 
 make things comfortable for his guests. The follow- 
 ing are the rules and regulations of conduct at that 
 establishment : — 
 
 "Board must be paid in advance; with beans, 25 dols., 
 
78 
 
 THE KLONDIKE GOLDFIELDS, 
 
 without beans 12 dols. Salt free, no extras allowed, 
 potatoes for dinner, pocketing at meals strictly for- 
 bidden. Gentlemen are expected to wash out of 
 doors, and find their own water. No charges for ice, 
 towel-bags at the end of the house. Extra charge 
 for seats around the stove. Lodgers must find their 
 own straw ; beds on bar-room floor reserved for 
 regular customers. Persons sleeping in the barn are 
 requested not to take their boots off. Lodgers must 
 aiise at j a.m. ; in the barn at 6 a.m. No fighting at 
 table. Anyone violating the above rules will be 
 shot." 
 
 Before I proceed to a recapitulation of the informa- 
 tion I have been able to glean, I should like to add 
 an extract from the account furnished by Dr. William 
 H. Dall to the Daily Tribune, 
 
 Dr. Dall is one of the curators of the National 
 Museum, in New York, and a sound geologist. He 
 has conducted more than one Alaskan geological 
 survey, and speaks with the highest authority, and I 
 would draw special attention to his remarks on the 
 scarcity of game, which emphasise the necessity of 
 taking one's own supplies. 
 
 " I have no doubt that the facts as told by the 
 press are, in main, strictly correct. The Klondike 
 goldfields, however, are not in Alaska territory. They 
 are in the British possessions, what is known as the 
 North-Western Territory. The Klondike River, 
 which has been on the map for about twenty years,* 
 branches from the Yukon River not far from the 
 boundary between Canada and Alaska. The Canadian 
 
 * Dr. Dall doubtless refers to American or Canadian Maps. 
 
 territory 
 being giv 
 this part: 
 however, 
 reach the 
 stream, a 
 Steamers 
 Tacoma. 
 the head 
 To reach 
 mountain' 
 streams w 
 River. It 
 The coun 
 There is ; 
 with pract 
 to break u 
 tion begins 
 June. It 
 of Septen 
 October u 
 not more 1 
 about three 
 more than 
 It is a coui 
 as there is 
 went into t 
 natives. T 
 on account 
 "The thei 
 below zero 
 there, I slei 
 
AND HOW TO GET THERE. 
 
 79 
 
 territory has lately been divided into districts, a name 
 being given to each, but I do not recall the name of 
 this particular one. The North-Western Territory, 
 however, embraces them all. The nearest way to 
 reach the Klondike River, which is a very small 
 stream, and the goldfields is from Chilkoot Inlet. 
 Steamers run from Sitka there, and from Seattle and 
 Tacoma. The distance from Chilkoot Inlet, or rather 
 the head of it, to the Klondike is about 500 miles. 
 To reach there it is necessary to cross the coast 
 mountains, and then the chain of lakes and short 
 streams which form the headwaters of the Yukon 
 River. It is on these streams that the gold is found. 
 The country is a rolling one covered with grass,, 
 There is a short hot summer of about four months, 
 v^^ith practically no spring or autumn. The ice begins 
 to break up in the rivers about May 25th, and naviga- 
 tion begins on the Yukon River about the first week in 
 June, It begins to get very cool by the latter part 
 of September, and is almost winter weather by 
 October ist. The winter is very cold and dry, with 
 not more than three feet of snow. There is only 
 about three inches of rainfall during the winter,and not 
 more than a foot or 15 inches the whole year round. 
 It is a country in which it is very hard to find food, 
 as there is practically no game. Before the whites 
 went into the region there were not more than 300 
 natives. They have hard work to support themselves 
 on account of the scarcity of game. 
 
 "The thermometer sometimes goes down to 68 deg. 
 belo.v zero in January and February. While I was 
 there, I slept, or attempted to sleep, in a tent one 
 
 i 
 
 
 1:1 
 I I 
 
8o 
 
 THE KLONDIKE GOLDFIELDS, 
 
 night when the mercury registered this, but it was just 
 a little too frigid for us. The cold, however, is not so 
 intense as may be imagined, and 68 deg. there could 
 not be compared with the same here. The dress is 
 mostly of furs in the winter, that used by the natives, 
 and unless there is a sharp wind blowing one may 
 keep fairly comfortable. When I was there I did not 
 find gold, but knew of it being taken out in profitable 
 quantities for 1$ years or more. It was first dis- 
 covered there in 1866. In 1880, when I was up in 
 that country — my last trip was made two years ago — 
 the first party of prospectors who made the mining 
 profitable started out. The gold is found on the 
 various tributaries of the Yukon, and I have been 
 within a comparatively short distance of the Klondike 
 fields. I made one trip to Circle City, just over the 
 boundary of Canada. The gold bearing belt of North 
 Western America contains all the goldfields extend- 
 ing into British Columbia. The Yukon really runs 
 along in that belt for 500 or 600 miles. The bed of 
 the main river is in the lowland of the valley. The 
 yellow metal is not found in paying quantities in the 
 main river, but in the small streams which cut through 
 the mountains on either side. These practically 
 wash out the gold. The mud and mineral matter are 
 carried into the main river, while the gold is left on the 
 rough bottoms of these side streams. In most cases 
 the gold lies at the bottom of thick gravel deposits. 
 The gold is covered by frozen gravel in the winter. 
 During the summer, until the snow is melted, the 
 surface is covered by muddy torrents. When the 
 snow is all melted, and the springs begin to freeze, 
 
 the strea 
 order to 
 to dig i 
 stripped 
 Now the 
 and tunr 
 layer. 1 
 as it ha* 
 everythin 
 
 "The 
 wish to 
 territory 
 the expi) 
 melted an 
 This is th( 
 gold beari 
 down that 
 sides of til 
 Blasting v 
 nature of 
 out just as 
 tainin^ th 
 torrents cc 
 these. It ; 
 reasons wh 
 The streari 
 probably c 
 several hu 
 into the be 
 which the f 
 mentioned 
 mountains. 
 
' 
 
 AND HOW TO GET THERE, 
 
 8i 
 
 the streams dry up. At the approach of winter, in 
 order to get at the gold, the miners find it necessary 
 to dig into the gravel formation. Formerly they 
 stripped the gravel off until they came to the gold. 
 Now they sink a shaft to the bottom of the gravel, 
 and tunnel along underneath in the gold bearing 
 layer. The way in which this is done is interesting, 
 as it has to be carried on in cold weather when 
 everything is frozen. 
 
 " The miners build fires over the area where they 
 wish to work, and keep these lighted over that 
 territory for the space of about 24 hours. Then, at 
 the expiration of this period, the gravel will be 
 melted and softened to a depth of perhaps six inches. 
 This is then taken off, and other fires built until the 
 gold bearing layer is reached. When the shaft is 
 down that far, fires are built at the bottom against the 
 sides of the layer and tunnels made in this manner. 
 Blasting would do no good on account of the hard 
 nature of the material, and the charge would blow 
 out just as out of a gun. The matter taken out con- 
 taining the gold is piled up until spring, when the 
 torrents come down, and is panned and cradled by 
 these. It is certainly very hard labour. I see many 
 reasons why the goldfields should be particularly rich. 
 The streams which cut through the mountains have 
 probably done so for centuries, wearing them down 
 several hundred feet, and washing out the gold 
 into the beds and gravel. There are two routes by 
 which the fields can be reached, one of which I have 
 mentioned before, from Chilkoot Inlet over the 
 
 mountains. This is about 500 miles. The other is 
 
 G 
 
i|^ji|. n I .r^^^ 
 
 IMAOE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-3) 
 
 1.0 
 
 I.I 
 
 
 
 1.8 
 
 Photographic 
 
 Sciences 
 Corporation 
 
 
 1.25 1.4 
 
 J4 
 
 
 ■» 6" — 
 
 
 ► 
 
 33 WEST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 
 
 (716) 872-4503 
 
,v 
 
 '*^' 
 
 ^'^, 
 
 iff M/ 
 
 5? 
 
 i 
 
82 
 
 THE KLONDIKE GOLDFIELDS, 
 
 up the Yukon River from St. Michael's, on the west 
 coast of Alaska, which is about 1,500 miles in length 
 or three times as far as the other. Flat-bottomed 
 steamers run from St Michael's. The return trip 
 from the fields is much easier, and has been taken by 
 the miners who have made their piles and recently 
 returned to the United States by way of Seattle. 
 The Pacific Coast Steamship Company runs steamers 
 every five days from Seattle. The only way in 
 which supplies may be transported over the moun- 
 tains the other way is on mules, taking time and 
 expense. As I remarked before, it is a country in 
 which there is practically no sustenance, and food 
 must be taken to the goldfields. This information, 
 from such a high authority as Dr. Dall, is not a 
 repetition only, it is a confirmation of previous 
 statements and reports. 
 
 I think now I have placed before those interested 
 sufficient information to enable them to determine for 
 themselves whether the claim that Klondike is one of 
 the richest gold districts ever discovered is justified 
 or not, the exact situation of the stream itself, which 
 is clearly indicated in Mr. Stanford's map, specially 
 prepared for this little work, the nature of the climate, 
 and the physical aspects of the district, the prepara- 
 tions necessary for a sojourn there, and the two routes 
 by which it is reached and the cost. Suppose I had 
 a son who had made up his mind to take the risks 
 for the sake of a possible fortune. I should first 
 consider whether his physical constitution, his natural 
 combativeness, general health, ready resource, pluck 
 and determination, qualified him to accompany an 
 
 explorer 
 of this, I 
 with at ] 
 nothing w 
 Liverpool 
 year. If 
 papers tha 
 to Klondil 
 most of tl 
 remain in 
 and most ( 
 competitio 
 trust him, 
 Vancouver 
 so as to g 
 excursions, 
 this is the 
 start as so 
 Then wouk 
 by Dutch 
 and Yukon 
 The former 
 though invc 
 the prelim 
 splendid tra 
 actual diggi 
 be possible 
 to remain c 
 mine by 
 Planned an 
 doubt a w 
 sustained, 
 
Wif 
 
 AND HOW TO GET THERE. 83 
 
 explorer or an Arctic expedition. If I were satisfied 
 of this, I would then consider if I could start him 
 with at least ^*20o to ^^250. That being settled 
 nothing would induce me to allow him to start from 
 Liverpool before, at the earliest, late March of next 
 year. If he were to argue that he had read in the 
 papers that there are 3,cx)o miners blocking the passes 
 to Klondike now, I should reply that he would pass 
 most of them in the spring, many of them would 
 remain in the route, but they wouldn't block it^ 
 and most of the others would have gone out of the 
 competition before he reached the district. If I could 
 trust him, I might be disposed to start him off to 
 Vancouver now and let him spend the winter there, 
 so as to get partly inured, by shooting and other 
 excursions, to the climate (if I were going myself 
 this is the plan I should follow), and to get an early 
 start as soon as the approach of spring permitted. 
 Then would come the question of choice of routes {a) 
 by Dutch Harbour, Fort Get There, the Kwichpak, 
 and Yukon, or {b) via Juneau, over the White Pass. 
 The former is easier, but much longer, and the latter, 
 though involving great fatigue, is much shorter, and 
 the preliminary toil would, to a hardy man, be 
 splendid training for the continuous hardships at the 
 actual diggings. At the end of the summer it would 
 be possible to determine whether it would be wise 
 to remain during the winter; could only be deter- 
 mine by himself from experience and results 
 Planned and carried out as I have suggested, no 
 doubt a winter might be hardily and profitably 
 sustained, but to go out now^ and first face a 
 
 .jj 
 
 HiiiiaaiHMHMHHBHaaaBHii^HaBBHMDMM«>Baai^HHBaiHliii 
 
84 
 
 THE KLONDIKE GOLDFIELDS, 
 
 hyperborean winter straight off could in my opinion 
 only end disastrously. 
 
 I give here a table of fares and of various expenses, 
 absolutely correct to Vancouver or Seattle, beyond 
 that prices will probably vary by next spring. Via 
 Canadian Pacific Railway : — 
 
 I s. d. 
 From Liverpool to Van- 
 couver or Seattle by 
 the cheapest or steer- 
 age way, that is (a) 
 Steerage on Steamer, 
 Colonist Rail . . . 15 i8 9 
 
 (b) Second Cabin, 
 Steamer, Colonist Kail 17 18 9 
 
 (c) Saloon Steamer, 
 
 First -clnss Rail . .25 2 lo 
 Seattle to Fort Cudahy 
 (via Yukon Railway) 30 16 6 
 
 Total cost in actual fares, 
 Liverpool to Fort 
 Cudahy (a) 
 Ditto ditto \b) 
 Ditto ditto \c) 
 
 Steamer Fare from 
 
 Seattle to Juneau 
 Total Lvpl to Juneau (rt) 
 Ditto ditto \b) 
 
 Ditto ditto \c) 
 
 These last include Cabin 
 
 £ n-^ 
 
 46 15 3 
 48 IS 3 
 55 19 4 
 
 700 
 22 18 9 
 24 18 9 
 32 2 10 
 &Meala. 
 
 150 lbs. of personal baggage goes free. No gun- 
 powder, matches or other dangerous articles may be 
 carried. See that all your baggage is fully and clearly 
 labelled and addressed. All luggage is duly and 
 properly checked after examination by the Customs 
 Officers, a brass or paste-board tag being affixed to 
 each piece and a duplicate handed to the owner, so 
 that at the journey's end, each person can rapidly 
 secure his belongings, without chance of loss or 
 mistake. It is the same for all classes. 
 
 The fee for the Pullman Sleeper is £^ 2s., bedding, 
 &c., being provided. I have earlier given details in 
 the case of other classes with regard to sleeping 
 accommodation. 
 
 Meals are served in the dining car for the entire 
 
 journey \ 
 
 a la carte 
 
 The cc 
 
 upwards. 
 
 The ov 
 
 Provisi( 
 
 Cost of 
 
 So that 
 
 to me the 1 
 
 to Juneau 
 
 £Z0y and 3 
 
 at from £ 
 
 The provi; 
 
 Bacon , 
 Flour 
 
 Assorted driei 
 Com meal 
 Rice 
 Parched Coffe 
 
 With ar 
 meats. I 
 domestic r 
 in convenit 
 of good ol( 
 yards of g( 
 
 2 suits of Core 
 24 pairs thick 
 4 pairs rubber 
 
 3 pairs heavy s 
 i-doz, thick w 
 
 4 pairs thick \^ 
 
 To this I 
 winter, a si 
 
AND HOW TO GET THERE, 
 
 85 
 
 journey for £i 4s., drinks extra, or at the stations 
 a la carte. 
 
 The cost of living at Juneau is about 12s. a day 
 upwards. 
 
 The overland journey hence will cost about ;^3a 
 
 Provisions for one year (lowest estimate) £,ifi. 
 
 Cost of dogs, sledge, &c., abo^it ;^30. 
 
 So that suppose one goes " Colonist," which seems 
 to me the most convenient, the total cost from Liverpool 
 to Juneau, reckoning meals, &c., on cars, will run to 
 ;^30, and you may set down your expenses to Klondike 
 at from ;^I33 to £ldfO. I think this is pretty accurate. 
 The provisions to be taken should chiefly consist of — 
 
 Bacon • • 
 
 Flour 
 
 Assorted dried fruits 
 
 Com meal 
 
 Rice . . 
 
 Parched Coffee . 
 
 With an assortment of evaporated vegetables and 
 meats. I should add also a small case of the ordinary 
 domestic medicinal remedies, which may be obtained 
 in convenient form at the stores, with a small quantity 
 of good old brandy, purely as a medicine, ar.f" a few 
 yards of good flannel Take also : — 
 
 4 suits heavy woollen underwear 
 
 . 200 lbs. 
 
 Tea 
 
 • 
 
 .40 
 
 to 50 lbs. 
 
 . 800 „ 
 
 Cocoa . 
 
 • 
 
 
 20 „ 
 
 200 „ 
 
 Sugar . 
 
 • "« 
 
 
 75 » 
 
 200 „ 
 
 I3eans 
 
 • 1 
 
 
 150 *> 
 
 50 ., 
 
 Fresh biscuit bread 
 
 
 lOO „ 
 
 75 M 
 
 ConJenseJ Milk 
 
 
 I case. 
 
 2 suits of Corduroy 
 24 pairs thick woollen socles 
 4 pairs rubber boots lined 
 
 3 pairs heavy shoes 
 i-doz. thick woollen mits 
 
 4 paii-s thick woollen gloves 
 
 6 heavy woollen shirts 
 
 3 pairs ditto, ditto, blankets 
 
 1 thick but light coat 
 3 or 4 close warm hats 
 
 2 other suits of warm close woollea 
 
 material 
 
 To this I should add, if I contemplated facing the 
 winter, a sleeping bag of fur. This would enable you 
 
86 
 
 THE KLONDIKE GOLDFIELDS, 
 
 to put up with a certain amount of ventilation in the 
 sleeping hut, a matter which if neglected will carry 
 its own revenge. A rapid change of extreme tem- 
 peratures is more than anything else conducive to 
 ni-health and breakdown. 
 
 Thus prepared a miner ought to be reasonably secure 
 against want, and the climate. The actual implements 
 of his work he would of cou/se easily get at Van- 
 couver, Victoria or Seattle. Wood for all purposes is 
 scarce on the ground, and of course all his findings do 
 not make nett gains. For instance it is stated that 
 the Dominion Government have formulated a new set 
 of mining regulations for the Yukon Gold Fields. 
 One is that every. alternate claim is reserved by the 
 Government It has also been decided to collect a 
 tax or royalty upon the output of the placer diggings. 
 Under the new mining regulations established last 
 May the cost of registering a claim was increased 
 from 5 dols. to 15 dols., while an annual assessment 
 of 100 dols. was to be paid by the holder. What the 
 Government has now decided to do is to charge, in 
 addition to this, a royalty of ten per cent, upon the 
 output of all claims yielding 300 dols. a month and 
 under to each claim, and a royalty of 20 per cent 
 upon each claim yielding over that amount per month. 
 In some quarters it is anticipated that there will be 
 much difficulty in collecting this royalty, in view of 
 the nearness of the diggings to the Alaska border and 
 other drawbacks. The Minister of the Interior admits 
 that an equitable and general collection will be difficult 
 for some time. 
 Those who want to know more of the great N.W. 
 
 Territory 
 
 relating t( 
 
 know an 
 
 through ^ 
 
 read " Ak 
 
 the Unit 
 
 Report c 
 
 Alaska." 
 
 Guide Bo< 
 
 that may 
 
 Canada, i; 
 
 glad to pu 
 
 of inquirei 
 
 Forms c 
 
 informatioi 
 
 its arrangi 
 
 Flanagan, 
 
 at 30, Co( 
 
 7, James S 
 
 Glasgow. 
 
 The Canadi 
 IS. Water Stn 
 in Wales ; Mr 
 G. Stuart, Dui 
 Fleming, 44, \ 
 Forfarshire ; T 
 all of whom > 
 power. 
 
 I have 
 view of the 
 and I trust 
 one review 
 necessary. 
 
WF 
 
 AND HOW TO GET THERE. 
 
 87 
 
 Territory should look up the Official Handbook 
 relating to the Dominion of Canada. If they want to 
 know anything X)f the Yukon and the districts 
 through which it flows, they cannot do better than 
 read " Along Alaska's Great River" by Schwatka, and . 
 the United States' Census — " The Eleventh Census 
 Report on the Population and Resources of 
 Alaska." And a study of Scidmore's " Appleton's 
 Guide Book to Alaska " will give some information 
 that may be of use, and the High Comissioner of 
 Canada, 17 Victoria Street, Westminister, S.W., will be 
 glad to put the knowledge of his office at the disposal 
 of inquirers. 
 
 Forms of application for passenger tickets, and full 
 information as to the Canadian Pacific Railway and 
 its arrangements, can be obtained of Mr. F. W. 
 Flanagan, 6^ & 68, King William Street, E.C., or 
 at 30, Cockspur Street, Trafalgar Square, S.W., at 
 7, James Street, Liverpool, and 6^^ St Vincent Street, 
 Glasgow. 
 
 The Canadian Government Agent in Liverpool is Mr. A. F. Jury, 
 15, Water Street. Mr. W. L. Griffith, Erskine Arms Hotel, Conway, 
 in Wales ; Mr. W. M. Murray, 52, Enoch Square, Glasgow ; Mr. W. 
 G. Stuart, Duack Lodge, Nethy Bridge, Inverness, N.B. ; Mr. Peter 
 Fleming, 44, High Street, Dundee ; Mr. Thomas Duncan, Carnoustie, 
 Forfarshire ; Mr. John Webster, 30, Upper Leeson Street, Dublin, 
 all of whom will be found ready to give any information in their 
 power. 
 
 I have endeavoured to give as comprehensive a 
 view of the subject as space and time have allowed, 
 and I trust that the information here gathered into 
 one review will be found as correct and as full as 
 necessary. I have been at some pains to make it so. 
 
w-m/w* 
 
 . ju-.. i^...^^^^^m 
 
 88 
 
 THE KLONDIKE COLDFIELDS^ 
 
 To those contemplating a start I would say do not 
 be too discouraged by adverse reports, or unduly 
 hopeful when they assume a rosier aspect, be prepared 
 for either fortune. May He best of good luck 
 attend you. 
 
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