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' t

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■■■■

THE

GOLD-FIELDS OF ALASKA

PKINTI'D UY

SPOTTISWOOPF- AND CO., Nh\V-STRF.F:T SQUARr

l.OiNDON

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ALASKA

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WiTH A MAr AND 3^ ILLl-TK -^TIONS

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LONDON

r H ATTO *^ \\ i :^ l/l ^

THK. ffflUUR IV Ti Bi

THROUGH riHi:

GOLD-FIELDS OF ALASKA

BERING STRAITS

HARKV DI-: WIXDT, I'.KG.S.

ALTIIOK or 'IT.KIN TO TALAIS FlV LANo' 'A KIPE TO INMMA
TIIK NEW SIDEKI.V 'SIBICRIA AS IT IS' ETC.

WITH A MAP AXn 33 ILLUSTRATIONS

LONDON

C H A 'I' T U ^ W 1 X I) V S

i8y8

137207

All riffils resented

H. C.

THIS VOLUMK IS DEDICATED

»l

P R E F A C E

Hid my original ^iclicme succeeded, this work
would heave borne the alluring title of 'New
York to Paris by Land ' : a journey which, so far
as I know, has iiovcr yet l)'^en accomplished,
though I do not, for one moment, suggest that
it never will be. My cloud, however, has its
silver lining, seeing that the first pa)-t of our
voyage lay through a region then known by
nanje t<,) perhaps a dozen white men, but now a
byword thro'igbout tlie civilised world : Klon-
dike. I may add that llaidiug and T were the
iirst Europeans to reside foj' any length of time
alone and unprotected among the Tchuktchis of
Siberia. But for these facts this book might
well have been entitled ' The Record of a
Failure.'

HAEEY DE WINDT.

r.utia : Christmas Daij. 1H97.

■«pwu«fiiiiv* '

CONTENTS

CHAPTEn I'AGli

I. Juneau — Dyea 1

II. Sheep Camp— The Chilkoot Pass .... 19

III. The Lakes 42

IV. The Eapids 63

V. Lake Le Barge — Five Fingers — Fort Selkirk . 76

VI. Klondike 98

VII. Forty-Mile City — Circle City — Koseukfski —

Fort St. Michael 139

VIII. Among the Eskimo— The ' Bear '—King's Island . 171

IX. Oumwaidjik 194

X. Oumwaidjik (ii) 21.5

XI. 0UMWAID.TIK (ill) 235

XII. Our Rescue — The ' Belvedere ' — San Francisco . 267

APPENDICES

A. Outfit for One Man for a Journey from Juneau

TO Dawson City 291

B. Table of Distances from Dyea to Circle City . 292

C. Canadian Eoute to Klondike 293

D. Mr. Joseph Ladue's Directions for Staking out

a Mining Claim 294

E. The Murder of Lieutenant Barnard, E.N. . . 296

F. Meteorological Fieport, Fort St. Michael,

Alaska, for May, June, July, and August, 1896 298

G. Prices of Furs in London exported from Alaska 298
H. Glossary of Tciiuktchi Language spoken at

Village of Oumwaidjik, Cape Tciiaplin, N.E.

Siberia, Bering Sea 299

I. The Icebound Whalers 302

Index. 303

wmm

■^T"

ILLUSTRATIONS

The Author in Tchuktchi Dress.

Map or Alaska and the Yukon Gold-fields

Juneau, Alaska— Looking North

A Fur Store, Alaska

Indian Totem Poles .

Miners on the Road to Klondike, Chilkoot
Pass

• • • • • • •

A. Doo-TEAM AT Stonehouse, Chilkoot Pass,
Alaska

The Gateway of Alaska— Nearino the Summit
OF the Chilkoot

The Grand Canon, or ' Miner's Grave,' Alaska

ErvER Travel in Summer on the Yukon.

The Yukon River and its Tributaries

The Alaska Commercial Company's Agency,
Forty-mile City, N.W.T

'Arctic Summer,' near Forty-mile City . .

Break-up of Ice on the Yukon River .

The Alaska Commercial Company's Steamer
' Alice '

•Charley,' Indian Chief, Forty-mile City

Circle City, Alasija— A Gold-mining Camp
within the Arctic Circle ....

Circle City, Alaska

Fort St. Michael, Bering Sea, Alaska .

King's Island, Bering Sea

Tchuktchis, East Cape, Bering Straits .

Frontispiece

To face

p. 1

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106

))

140

142

144

148

152

158

162

172

190

192

•mr

THE GOLD-FIELDS OF ALASKA

OUMWAID.IIK, BeKINO StUAITS, WHERE THE

Author was kept by the Tchuktchis till

RESCUED BY THE WHALEK ' BeLVEDEUE ' .

TcHUKTCHi Natives, Oumwaidjik, N.E. Siheria,
Bering Straits

A Native Hut of Walrus-hide- Oumwaidjik .

A Herd of Eeindeer, at East Cape, N.E.
BinERiA, Bering Straits

The 'Kamitok,' Oumwaid.hk, ]5erino Straits,
N.E. Siberia

The 'Shamans,' or 'Medicine-men,' stilling
THE Waves, Oumwaidjik, Bering Straits,
N.E. Siberia

A TCHUKTCHI'S EeTUEN FROM SeAL-SHOOTING—

The Day's Bag

Tciiuktciiis Walrus-iiunting in Bering Straits

T.AinARAS' OFF THE SIBERIAN CoAST, BERING

Ska

Original Drawing of a Steam Whaler by a
TcHUKTCHi Boy, aged 16 . . • •

A ]lEAR-HUNT OFF OUMWAIDJIK . . . ■

Ounalaska, and the Bevenue Cutter 'Bear'.
Plan of the Whaler ' liELVEOERE ' .

To face 11. 194

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204

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232

240

246
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lonffttitde, West cf Greenwich

THROUGH THE

GOLD-FIELDS OF ALASKA

TO BERING STRAITS

CHAPTEK I

JUNEAU — DYEA

Southern Alaska is the Norway of America.

Juneau, to-day, is thronged with gaily dressed
tourists disgorged by the steamer that has

brought us from Victoria : a two days' journey
through fjords of indescribable beauty, past tower-
ing peaks of granite, densely wooded valleys,
and glaciers of clear blue crystal washed by the
waves of the sea. It is the tenth day of June,
but although the sky is cloudless, and the little
town bathed in sunshine, snow still lies deep
on the hill- sides, and a keen breeze blows
down from an amphitheatre of snowy mountains
a short distance inland. Here, in the hotel

THUOUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

veranda, all is bustlo and commotion. Partiea
are being orf,'ani.sed to explore the town, an
operation which the steep tortuous alleys and
miry streets render somewhat diflicult. The
local photographer is driving a brisk trade, while
a number of filthy Indians, in gaudy rags, are
disposing of ' curios ' at prices that would startle
Port Said or Colombo. For time is short. In
three or four hours, at most, the ' Queen ' will
have weighed anchor ; and her visits are few
and far between. The tourists will return to
civilisation vaguely satisfied that they have
' done Alaska,' and probably unmindful of the
fact that theii' Alaska bears about as much
relation to the entire country as the county of
Kent to the rest of England.

I left New York for Paris, by land (accom-
panied by my servant, George Harding, an old
fellow-traveller), on May 26, 1896. Our proposed
route lay from New York to Juneau via Victoria,
E.G. ; from Juneau across the Chilkoot Pass to
a chain of lakes at the head of the Great Yukon
river, and dowm the Yukon to Fort St. Michael,

on Bering Sea.

The crossing of Bering Straits

ALASKA TO BERING STIIAIT8

was, if possible, to bu accoiuplisiied over the
ice. Should this prove impracticable, the
American revenue cutter ' Bear ' was placed at
my disposal by the authorities at Washington
to convi'y us from Fort St. Michael to the Asiatic
coast. In Siberia our objective point was the
remote settlement of Anadyrsk, where theie is
bi-yearly connuunication with St. Petersburg,
about 0,000 miles distant. From Anadyrsk we
hoped to gain the city of Irkoutsk (via Okhotsk
and Yakoutsk), and proceed thence to Europe by
road and railway.

This journey was not undertaken on the
spur of the moment. I was over a year making
my preparations. The Great Sahara itself is
not more sterile than the Arctic deserts we
were to cross. Everything had to be thought of
— provisions, arms and ammunition ; especially
the first named, for Alaska produces absolutely
nothing in the way of food. A guide, too, was
essential. We were, therefore, fortunate in
securing the services of one Joe Cooper, an
old-timer, who was returning to the Yukon
gold-fields, and who agreed (for a consideration)

B 2

li ■■

■l ''

THPiOIIGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

to pilot us over the dreaded Chilkoot Pass, and
down the lakes and rapids to Forty-Mile City.

A few finishing touches to our outfit neces-
sitated a two days' delay at Juneau, a picturesque
little town of Alpine appearance. Juneau con-
tains perhaps 3,000 inhabitants, and was founded
in 1881. This so-called ' city ' consists of
wooden houses laid out with regularity, but the
streets are generally knee-deep in mud during
the summer on account of the incessant rainfall.
It is a busy place, with two hotels, good shops,
innumerable drinking saloons, and electric light
everywhere. Miners fit out here for the Yukon
region, and it may be well to advise the in-
experienced contemplating a visit to Klondike
to do likewise ; for there are storekeepers here
who thoroughly understand the business, and who
do nothing else.' On Douglas Island near here
is the famous Treadwell Mine, where the largest
quartz mill in the world crushes 600 tons in
the tw^enty-four hours. This mine has already
yielded more gold than was paid for the whole of
Alaska !

' For outfit for Alaska seo Appendix A.

ho
lere

est
in

■■'k^

o
y.

o
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(i —

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

The population of Juneau appeared to
consist mainly of store- and saloon-keepers,
miners on their way to the Yukon, and a few
flashily dressed ladies of doubtful reputation.
Many of the latter were attired in ' bloomers,'
a garb that rendered them, if possible, more
unattractive than nature had already done.
Labour should be cheap in Juneau, for the streets
are generally crowded with loafers from the
Pacific slope, who land here almost penniless,
with the vague intention of working their way
to the gold-fields. Oddly enough, with such a
riff-raff population, crime is rare. The majority
of the gold-seekers are stcf ^' industrious men
with sufficient capital to make a good start,
and evil-doers are summarily dealt with.
Notwithstanding its innnunity from rowdiness,
the place has much in connnon with the old
Californian mining camps, and there are plenty
of sharks of both sexes to waylay itnd lleece the
lucky digger on his way back to the Golden
Gates. Sounds of revelry are heard on every
side throughout the brief summer night, for

THEOUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

i «

i i

II '

* !*

Jiinoau is a blaze of olertric light from dusk
till dawn, and never seems to sleep.

Joe Cooper arrived on the second day of our

stay, and preparations were made for a start

the same evening for Dyea, at the head of

Lynn Canal — the end of salt-water navigation.

The distance from Juneau to this point is about

100 miles, and could in a well-found vessel be

accomplished with comfort in very few hours ;

but I would not willingly cross the Serpentine

in the crazy little craft upon which we

embarked that night. The ' liustler ' was a

revelation (even for Alaska) in dirt and

discomfort. She measured perhaps forty-five

feet in length and was covered from stem to

stern by a kind of wooden shed entered by a

doorway, which, when closed, entirely excluded

light and air. The space below the filthy deck

was reserved for baggage, so that the rickety

plank structure afore-mentioned formed the sole

accommodation. As it also contained the boiler

and engines, the heat, stench, and noise may

be better imagined than described, There was

only one bunk, in a tiny wheelhouse forward,

ALASKA TO BEEING STRAITS

for the use of the Captcam. The 'Eustler,'
licensed to carry twenty-five persons, contained
on this occasion sixty-seven, most of whom were
intoxicated, which did not improve matters.
Anticipations of a pleasant voyage completely
vanished when, upon leaving harbour, a n amber
of passengers (stationed on the roof) crossed
to the port side to wave a last farewell, and
the little tub heeled over till water came
pouring in over the low gunwale. The night w\^s
fine and still, however, which compensated for
loss of sleep. By midnight men overcome by
drink had fallen in all directions, and the place
looked hke a Texan saloon after a free fight. One
could not step across the filthy den for human
faces or turn without touching some prostrate
form. Towards morning a breeze crept up from
the southward and raised a ripple that necessi-
tated the closing of the door. The heat and
stench occasioned by the engines now h com-
ing unbearable, I struggled forward to the wheel-
house, where Captain Donald Campbell cour-
teously offered me half his camp stool, and I
managed to get a mouthful of fresh air.

v^ r

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

:i 1

t i

The morning Wcis bright and pleasant, but
a rapidly freshening wind somewhat detracted
from my enjoyment of the glorious scenery.
Lynn Canal is the grandest fjord on the coast,
and its western shores present a magnificent
panorama of snow-clad mountains fringed by
dark pine forest to the water's edge. Towards
midday the Davidson Glacier was passed, and
near enough to distinguish the strange and
beautiful effects produced upon it by cloud and
sunshine. The Davidson Glacier is fan-shaped
and second only in size and grandeur to the
Muir Glacier, which lies to the west of it. Both
are visited by hundreds of tourists every
summer, which perhaps accounts for the exist-
ence of the now famous ' Silent City.' The
latter is simply a ' mirage ' over the Muir
Glacier, but a mirage so perfect that the dis-
coverer (an enterprising American) returned to
Juneau with a marvellous story. The city he
had seen contained not only great public build-
ings, lofty spires, and well-defined streets, and
parks, but even j^^ojde ivalhing about ! This
occurred about four years ago ; but, although

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

thousands have since visited the spot, the
mysterious vision has obstinately refused to
reappear. The ' discovery ' of the city had some
good results, for it swelled the receipts of the
Tourist Steamship Company, while the 'dis-
coverer ' made hundreds of dollars by the sale
of a photograph he had been fortunate enough
to obtain of the phenomenon. A sceptical Eng-
lish tourist has since also made the ' discovery '
that his own house figures in the picture, which
(he says) is simply a poor negative of his native
city : Bristol, in England. But Englishmen
are proverbially incredulous !

No food of any kind being provided for
passengers on board the ' Rustler,' I gladly
accepted Captain Campbell's invitation to share
his mid-day meal, which was brought up by a
grimy youth of uncertain ago. ' Hootchinoo ' and
' Alaskan strawberries,' said the skipper jocosely,
as we fell to, and I learnt, for the first time,
the local vernacular for whisky and beans.
During this repast the grimy youth (who
constituted the entire crew) took the helm.
There was a hght-hearted abandon Eibout

-^-rtrri"! ■ ,.

rii

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OV

Donald Campbell's navigation that was any-
thing but roasRnring, especially as parts of the
Lynn Canal are notoriously dangerous. But
this caused my friend little anxiety, and the
boat was frequently left in my charge while
he went aft to visit his friends and refresh
himself. I learnt at Dyea that seamanship
was a comparatively recent phase in his career,
and that he had formerly driven a milk-cart in
San Francisco.

Towards G p.m. we entered Dyea Inlet, but
the wind had gradually increased since morning
and it was now blowing half a gale. We could
luckily run before it^ but great white rollers
more than once threatened to poop the wretched
little cockboat as she floundered helplessly
about at the mercy of the waves. A dull lower-
ing sky and rapidly falling barometer presaged
a dirtier night, and even Donald Campbell
looked uneasy. The ex-milkman finally resolved
to run for Skagway Bay, where there is good
anchorage, and proceed, if possible, to Dyea
(which is merely an open roadstead) in the
morning. It seemed, more than once, as though

ALASKA TO BETTING STPiAITS

we should never reach Skagway, or indeed, any-
where else, for the launch was leaking badly.
Eight o'clock, however, found us at anchor in
fairly smooth water, and though our cable con-
sisted of a flimsy rope, and a rocky lee-shore would
have made short work of the ' Rustler,' I slept
soundly enough that night, undisturbed by the
revels of our fellow-passengers, who were evi-
dently bent on making another night of it. When
I awoke the sun was shining brightly, the wind
had fallen, and we had reached our destination.
Although there are at the present time
several loates into Alaska under the considera-
tion of the Canadian and United States Govern-
ments, there were in 1894 but two recognised
means of reaching the Yukon Valley. One (which
is still largely used) is by sea from San Francisco
to Fort St. Michael, on Bering Sea, a distance of
about 2,500 miles, which takes from eighteen to
thirty days (according to weather) to accomplish.
At St. Michael passengers and freight are trans-
shipped to flat-bottomed steamers, which carry
them about 1,800 miles more up the Yukon
river (past Circle City, in U. S. territory) to

|) li

:( •

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

Forty-Mile City, in British territory. Klondike
is situated only a short distance above this
point. This route is only practicable from the
end of June to the middle of September, as the
Yukon is at other times blocked by ice, while
St. Michael is, for the same reason, unapproach-
able by "o^a.

The other route, via Dyea and the Chilkoot,
is, as the reader will see, considerably shorter,
though much less easily accomplished.^ Other
routes into the country which have attracted
attention since the gold-rush are the ' White
Pass,' the ' Taku Pass,' * Jack Daulton's Trail,'
and the ' Stickine route.' Recent events have
not confirmed the favourable opinion I once
formed of the first-named pass, which seems to
be only second to the Chilkoot in impractica-
bility. There can be little doubt, however, that
Daulton's Trail has much to recommend it,
especiall}' as over 800 head of cattle have been
driven across it this year (1897) without the

' Sea route via St. Michael
Land „ via Dyea

. 4,350 Eng. miles
. 1,650

Fare from San Francisco to Forty-Mile City by sea route,
Silo.

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

slightest difficulty. But it would be premature
to come to any conclusion until the spi-ing of
1898, when the surveyors now at wovk on the
coast will have sent in their reports, and a
practicable road into Alaska wJH no doubt have
been discovered.'

A foretaste of the pleasures of Alaskan travel
awaits us at Dyea, where we are compelled,
owing to the shelving beach, to wade ashore for
over half a mile. The crowd splashing to land
from the ' Hustler ' looks like an invading army.
The water is scarcely knee-deep, but an oc-
casional hole lets one in over the waist, which
adds to the general hilarity of the proceedings,
but does not improve the temper or the pro-
visions we carry. Alaska is no place for the
fastidious. If you want a thing done, you must
do it yourself, or ' get left ! '

The name of Dyea is derived from an Indian
word signifying ' a carrying place.' The village
is picturesquely situated in a valley surrounded
by thickly wooded hills. One might be in
Switzerland. Horses and cattle graze on the

' See Appendix C.
13

THKOUGH 'J'lIK (J OLD-FIELDS OF

•'\)

•I ,li

luwlciucls, while, hiv uwiiy on the horizon, ii
succeHsion of snowy peaks <,'htter u^'aiust a
cloudless blue sky. The settlement consists of
a larf.fc wooden storehouse, and perhaps half a
dozen Iol;- huts inhai)ited by Indiarxs. These are
generally surrounded by the white tents of diggers
bound inland, or 'getting out' of the country.
A Yukon miner never talks of • leaving ' Alaska.
lie ' gets out ' of this Arctic ice-trap, which has
already entombed so many of those who have
ventured within its treacherous gates.

A delay of two or three days is generally
unavoidable liei-e, while Indians are procured
to carry tents and baggage over the Chilkoot
Pass to the lakes, twenty-four miles distant.
Leaving Joe and Harding to pitch the tent, I
strolled over to the store, where the proprietor,
a brawny Scotchman, in gum-boots and shirt
sleeves, was sunning himself at his doorway.
Mr. Heron was inclined to be taciturn, and as
he has (or had) the monopoly of Indians, horses,
and everything else one happened to want,
considerable tact was necessary to bring him
into a more genial frame of mind. This took

eft

O
H

c/1

^ jv

ALASKA TO BEEING STEAITS

some time ; for Heron at Dyea is monarch of all
he surveys. In justice, let me add that success
was attained more by the fact that we were
fellow-countrymen than by the aid of the
almighty dollar. Also, my big friend's bark was
worse than his bite. Indian packers and horses
were promised for the morrow, and at mid-day
my party were doing justice to an excellent
meat pie and vegetables in the storekeeper's
back parlour. This may seem an unnecessary
detail. I mention it, as this happened to be the
one decent meal we got between Juneau and
Forty-Mile City, a distance of nearly 700 miles !
Towards evening I walked out with a gun, but
saw nothing, with the exception of a couple of
large eagles and some sea-gulls. There is very
little sport to be had down the Yukon. Moose
used to be plentiful, but the continual crack of
the miner's rifle has scared them away from the
riverside, and one must now go far inland to find
them. At Fort St. Michael, on Bering Sea, I got
plenty of duck and ptarmigan ; but, for all we saw
elsewhere, both ritie and fowling-piece might,
with advantage, have been left at home.

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

1 i

! i.i

I returned to caiiip to find all made snug for
the ni^4it. Joe Cooper and Harding had lost no
time, for immy of our ' Rustler ' fi'iends had not
even connnenced to encamp or to sort the con-
fused mass of Hour-bags, Yukon stoves and
mining implements that had been thrown down
anyhow, and that, even now, were still being
dragged wearily ashore from the steamer. Many
of the parties had brought huge American ban-
ners that iloated proudly where tents should
have been, but the only \isible symbol of far-
away England was the tiny Union Jack that
fluttered over our heads. I don't think I met
half a dozen Englishmen between Dyea and
the shores of Bering Sea.

The chief topic of conversation in camp
that night was the condition of the Chilkoot
Pass. No mother ever watched a sick child with
greater care and anxiety than do the Indians the
now famous peak that rears its ugly head midway
between Dyea and the lakes. Every change of
temperature, wind, or weather is carefully noted ;
for even during the summer months snow^ flurries
are frequent, and the summit is frequently veiled

^ ' >

INDIAN TUTK.M I'OLES

m
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ALASKA TO BEKING STRAITS

in dense mist for days together. But the Indians
who crowded our camp to-night prophesied good
weather, at any rate for the morrow, although
the actual ascent would not be made until the
following day.

The Alaskan Indian is not prepossessing,
judging from the specimens we met with at Dyea.
Natives are very rarely seen in the interior,
and from Lake Lindemann to the village of
Thron-Diuck (Klondike) we came across less
than a score. There are many tribes, however,
ranging from the Thlinkits of the coast range to
the Eskimo on the shores of the Arctic Ocean.
The Thlinkits, who number about 7,000, are a
fine muscular race, but the laziest and most im-
pudent scoundrels I have ever met with. Lying
and theft may be said to be their chief charac-
teristics. Their once picturesque dress is now
discarded for twet's and trousers which render
them even more unattractive than formerly. The
Thlinkit women are under-sized, and, for the
most part, repulsive, their appearance not being
improved by a black, oily preparation which
is smeared thickly over the face as a protection

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THPxOUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

against mosquito bites. Only tiny children
are exempt from ' packing ' outfits over the
Chilkoot. The women, and even the dogs, must
do their share of the work. Some of the
latter have been known to carry as much as
twenty pounds to the lakes in canvas bags, slung,
pannier-fashion, over their backs.

There is no actual night in these regions at
this season of the year, but the hewing of timber
and hammering of tent pegs around kept us out
of the blankets until twilight was merging into
day, and it was almost time to light a lire for our
morning meal.

<!'

I I

' 1 *

■I . ' !

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

children
^^er the
js, must
of the
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5, slung,

[jions at
[ timber
t us out
Qg into
for our

CHAPTER II

SHEEP CAMP — THE CPHLKOOT PASS

The name 'Alaska ' is a corruption of ' Al-ay-eksa,'
a native name signifying ' A Great Country.' It
is only natural that a region so wild and so
remote should be comparatively unknown in
J England, but there are probably many Americans
ignorant of the vast extent of their newly
acquired territory, some even who are unaware
that San Francisco is several hundred miles
east of the eastern and w^estern extremities of
the United States.

Alaska proper (which until 1867 was known
as Russian America) has an area of about
600,000 square miles. The population consisted
in 1895 of about 8,000 whites and 23,000 Indians
in all. Since the gold-rush, however, the former
have more than doubled their number.

Alaska may be divided into two great divisions

19 c 2

ii i

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THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

or districts : Soutli-East and Western Alaska.
Mount St. Elias,^ 18,000 feet high, marks the
dividing Hne at 141 degrees West longitude, run-
ning north from this point to the Arctic Ocean.
The diversity of climatic and other conditions
existing throughout this huge territory, from its
southern coasts to the shores of the Polar Sea,
is naturally very great. On the North Pacific
coast, fjords with densely wooded islands are so
numerous that from Victoria in British Columbia
to Dyoa there are but a few miles of open sea.
Inland, almost as far as the Arctic Circle,
mountain ranges (many of great altitude) are
everywhere visible. There are also many large
lakes, often surrounded by the swamps and im-
penetrable forest that render Alaska so hard a
nut for the explorer to crack. Only a few miles
north of the coast range, fertile soil and luxuriant
vegetation are replaced by the barrenness of an
Arctic Sahara, so far as agriculture is concerned.
Here, for eight months of the year, vast plains
and huge rivers are merged into one vast un-

' The accent of this moi;ntain was recently uiacle, for the first
time, by H.H. the Du]<;e of Abruzzi.

i >

ALASKA TO BERING STEAITS

trodden world of ice, which few dare to penetrate
until the return of spring, or during the brief
summer when roses 1)loom, jind the coarse
luxuriant grass is plentifully sprinkled with
daisies and other wild llowers. In Central Alaska
the ground is perpetually frozen a few inches
below the surface, while in the north, wells have
been sunk through forty feet of solid ice.

For those who take care of themselves Alaska
is fairly healthy, notwithstanding that the
thermometer ranges from 98° Fahr. in the shade
to 70° and even 80° below zero. May, June, and
July are the best months for the interior, for the
days are generally bright and pleasant, and the
heat tempered by cool breezes. On the coast
rain and fog prevail. Occasionally, in June and
July, the sun is visible for a few hours, but there
are on an average only sixty-six fine days through-
out the year. In 1884 a rainfall of 155 inches
was registered at Ounalaska. The rain seldom
pours down, but falls in a kind of steady drizzle
from a leaden sky, while the grey sodden land-
scape presents a picture of utter dreariness and
desolation. But this damp cheerlessness has

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THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

its advantages. The incessant humidity sheds a
perpetual verdure over the coast districts, and
the temperature rarely falls to zero. Winter only
sets in with severity about the 1st of December,
and snow has vanished, except on the mountains
and hillsides, by the end of May. The heat in
July rarely exceeds 75° Fahr. The soil is rich
and root crops are prolific, while horses and
cattle do well. Above all, the ports of Juneau,
Dyea, and Sitka are open to the world all the
year round. Perhaps, taking all these facts into
consideration, the coast settleTiiei:»ts are prefer-
able, as a permanent residence, to those of the
interior.

Alaska was discovered by a Russian expedi-
tion led by Bering in 1741, and settlements
established along its coasts for the fish and fur
trades. A charter granted to a Russo-American
Fur Company by the Emperor Paul in 1799 was
renewed in 1839, when bitka became the principal
settlement. Gold was then undreamt of, and I
imagine that, even ten years ago, few^ people in
England were aware of its existence west of
the Caribou district. Alaska was suggestive of

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ALASKA TO BEEING STEAITS

Eskimo skin-boats, wolves and walrus, but cer-
tainly not of the precious metal.

Taking Sitka as a starting-point, the Ilusso-
American Company established about twenty
smaller stations, and an importanu trade was
carried on in furs and walrus tusks. About
30,000 skins of the seal and sea-otter were
exported annually, besides a considerable quan-
tity of ivory. But the privileges of this company
expired in 1863, and in 1867 the whole of
Eussian America was acquired by the United
State ;r the sum of ^7,200,000.

Secretary Seward, who was chiefly responsible
for the purchase, was blamed at the time for
what wvas looked upon by many as a foohsh
blunder. No one then imagined that ' Seward's
Ice Box ' would, in a very few years, repay its
purchase price many times over ; for, indeed, time
alone can reveal the boundless resources of this
great country. During the first five years of
American possession the new province made a
return of eight per cent, on the investment. The
gold mines (not including that taken out this
year, 1897) have produced ^8,000,000, and in six

THilOUGH THE (lOLD-FIELDS OF

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years the hiiIiikjii industry yielded ,i^7, 500,000.
The coinnierce of Ahiska was, in 18G7, ^2,500,000.
It is now ten times as great. In seals, it?;]5,000,000
have been (ixporttid in thirty years, and
;^53,000,000 in furs alone.

The industries so far developed pertain
mostly to the coast, but who can tell what riches
the opening up of the Yukon Valley may not
reveal ? Coal, copper, lead, and petroleum are
kno .1 to exist in large quantities, while the
timber supply is not only practically inexhaus-
tible, but of great value.

It is sad to think that the much-maligned
statesman who acquired this priceless territory
did not live to see his golden dream realised.
One of poor Seward's last speeches was prophetic.
A few days before his death, the Secretary was
asked by a friend what he considered the most
rtant measure of his political career?
xiie purchase of Alaska,' w^as the reply ; ' but
it will take the people a generation to find it
out!'

Glorious weather favoured our departure from
Dyea. About 7 a.m. Heron and the Indians

ALASKA TO BEHING STKAITS

appeared, leading the three sorry-looking screws
that were to carry onr outfit as fjir us Sheep
('amp, twelve miles distant, beyond which there
is no foothold for liorses. ' Fl:ip-Jacks " and
coffee were discussed while the packs were ad-
justed, and by nine o'clock all was ready for a
start, my party consisting of our three selves and
the four Indians who were to accompany us as
guides and packers as far as Lake Lindemann.

The first part of the trail after leaving Dyea
follows the bed of the Dyea River, which in
spring-time is a roaring torrent, but which dwin-
dles down in summer to a narrow stream, partly
concealed by huge boulders. There is no path
of any kind, and the rough rocky ground made
walking so laborious, that frequent halts were
necessary, and we travelled barely two miles an
hour. The horses slipped and slithered painfully
over the smooth worn rocks, and often fell he ivily,
which entailed further tedious delays, while their
burthens were set straight. I did not regret
having refused Heron's kind offer of a mount !

' The Yukon miner's name for a kind of small pancake, mailoof
flour and M'ater, like the Australian ' Damper.'

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THEOUCtH TflE GOLD-FIELDS OF

Three hours of this work brougnt us to a spot
where the trail turns off abruptly to the right,
and where the actual ascent, through a dense
forest, conniiences. The path here was very bad
and in many places almost impassable ; partly
on "count of roots and tree stumps, but chiefly
because it is laid across a succession of deep
morasses which cannot be avoided without
making a detour of several miles. In one of
these bogs, where the mire was quite waist deep,
a horse lost his footing and fell. More than an
hour was occupied in extricating him, and indeed
it looked at one time as though he would dis-
appear altogether, packs and all. Two swift
mountain torrents, several yards across, fed by a
large glacier this side of the Chilkoot, were then
forded. This was only accomplished with
difficulty, for the poor jaded nags were exhausted
by their struggles in the swamps, and the swift
rush of the icy cold water nearly carried them off
their legs. At some seasons of the year these
fords constitute a very dangerous feature of this
portion of the journey, and several men have
been drowned while crossing them. Near one

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ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

of these streams we found a party of gold-seekers
camped, who were returning to Juneau, having
failed (owing to lack of provisions) to reach the
lakes.

Towards mid-day the heat became intense,
and I drank more than once from the clear
brooklets that, fringed with cool green ferns and
wild flowers, came rippling down the mountain
side. But I paid dearly for my rashness by
suffering for many hours after from the raging
thirst that snow and glacier water invariably
create. Joe Cooper informed me that this is
one of the chief discomforts of Alaskan travel,
especially in winter. A small pebble kept in the
mouth will afford relief, while cold tea is the best
thirst-quencher that exists. Water (in Alaska)
only increases the evil.

Sheep Camp was reached about i'.:m., both
men and horses being pretty well done up after
the trudge over what Joe Cooper described as
' a pretty easy trail.' The place was deserted,
though a smouldering camp fire showed that a
party had only recently left for the summit.
The camp is a circular clearing in the forest,

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

where trees have been felled for perhaps fifty
yards around. We encamped on the banks of a
swift shallow stream that bisects the circle.
It is a sheltered, picturesque spot, and the bright
sunshine, fragrant grass and flowers and brawling
brook would have reminded one of a bit of
Devonshire scenery, had it not been for a range
of rocky precipitous mountains that barred the
way a few miles ahead. From here also can be
seen the huge Sheep Camp Glacier suspended
so insecurely between two granite peaks that it
looks as though a child's touch would send it
crashing into the valley below. The face of
this glacier is about 300 feet high. Loud
reports like the distant roar of heavy guns are
continually heard issuing from it, and these were
at times so deafening that on one occasion we
rushed out of the tent expecting to find that the
whole mass had fallen from its precarious perch.^
The ever-changing effects of light and shade
that passed over this glacier were indescribably
beautiful. In dull weather the surface would

' I am informed that a portion of this glacier became detached
in the snmmer of 1897 and flooded Sheep Camp, killing a number
of people.

•1

ALASKA TO BEEING STEAITS

be of a turquoise blue, and its crevasses the
colour of a sapphire ; on sunny days the entire
expanse would be white, bright, and dazzling
as a huge diamond ; while, during the twilight
hours the most delicate shades of ^ink, mauve,
and the tenderest green wo'i- a.veep like a
movable rainbow over the icy wilderness, that
seemed so near and yet was unapproachable.
One could stand for hours and watch this natural
kaleidoscope. And, indeed, there were plenty of
opportunit". ^for studying the beauties of nature,
for a delay of four days occurred here. Some
Indians returning from the summit came into
camp about 4 a.m. the day after our arrival.
They looked worn out and exhausted, and,
after some food, told us that no outfits could
be got over for a couple of days at least.
The trail beyond Stonehouse (the tree Hmit)
was in a shocking condition, and the snow in
many parts waist deep. It was, therefore,
decided that Cooper push on alone, if possible,
to Lake Lindemann the next morning, and
commence building our boat. Harding and I
were to follow with the Indians and outfit on

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

' :(■

' <

the first favourable opportunity; but as travellers
are sometimes detained here for a fortnight,
waiting for fair weather, the date of our de-
parture seemed rather uncertain.

It was weary work waiting, for there was
absolutely nothing to do. Books do not form
part of an Alaskan traveller's kit, for owing to
the barren nature of the country, every ounce
nuist be sacviliced to the food supply. On the
second day two parties arrived from Dyea and
encamped on the other side of the stream. We
recognised some of our ' Eustler ' friends, who
greeted us cordially, and were not in the least
surprised to find that we had come to a full stop
so early in the journey. Towards evening, a
spare elderly man clad in a red jersey, moccasins
and a blue cricketing cap walked into my tent.
A glance sufficed to show that this motley garb
was worn by a gentleman, but I was scarcely
prepared to find that the stranger was no less
a personage than the Rev. Father Barnum,
a Catholic missionary who has lived for
many years on the Yukon, and whose name

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ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

and good deeds are a byword throughout
Alaska.

The poor Father, who was returning from a
six months' visit to the States, was in a sorry
phght. A certain American Transportation
Company (newly formed) had undertaken to
convey him to his mission on the Lower Yukon
for a considerable sum of money, which was to
include packing over the Chilkoot, boat-building,
food, and all other expenses. But the company
had promised more than they could perform,
and this, their first expedition, was now stranded
a short distance below Sheep Camp, and likely
to remain there. Hearing of my party, the
Father had left his companions and pushed
ahead on the chance of being able to join us.
Otherwise he must, he said, return to San
Francisco and proceed by sea to his destination,
if indeed it was not already too late. Seeing
that we had plenty of provisions and a fairly
large tent, I acceded to Father Barnum's re-
quest, and he was soon comfortably installed in
our camp, with, as he laughingly remarked, at
any rate ' some chance of getting to his journey's

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

M;'

I «

end ! ' The Father was a truly welcome ad-
dition to our trio. No better traveller or more
genial companion ever sat over a camp fire,
and I was indeed glad before many days elapsed
that Fate had sent hhn our way.

A letter was brought in by one Daniel, an
Indian, early on the third morning, from Joe
Cooper. Joe had safely reached Lake Linde-
mann, and had begun to build the boat. Ho
had been overtaken by a heavy snowstorm on the
summit, which made the trail on the downward
side very bad, and more risky than usual. Joe
begged us to send food at once, having finished
the bag of biscuits with which he started.
Several parties w^ere camped on the lake, boat-
building, but provisions were very scarce.

The weather being favourable, I resolved to
move on that night with the outfit, and dis-
patched Daniel in the meantime with a small
quantity of flour and some bacon. Hearing of
my intention, our Dyea Indians slouched into
the tent and obstinately refused to pack one
ounce to the lake unless they were paid SIQ,
for every 100 lbs. They had agreed at Dyea to

It '!

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

take ^9, but the scoundrels knew, as we did, how
helpless we were up here. Our ' Rustler ' friends
had foolishly promised to pay ^11, so there was
nothing for it but to do likewise. Besides,
another day's delay might have meant another
week's bad weather.

The passage of the Chilkoot is generally
made by night, as the soft deep snow is then
in firmer condition. The outfit was despatched
at 3 P.M. to aw^ait us at Stonehouse, about
2,000 feet below the summit, where a halt is
made to gather strength for the real struggle.
I muBt admit that when I saw the crushing
weights carried by the Indians, and the perilous
trail over which they were borne, I ceased to
wonder that the Dyea men had struck for higher
wages. A Thlinkit Indian will pack 120 lbs.
with ease up places where an unencumbered
white man would be toiling on his hands and
knees. One of the Chilkat tribe has even
packed a piano-organ weighing 220 lbs. over to
the lakes, alone and unassisted. And yet these
natives subsist almost entirely on dried fish.
They are terrible drunkards, but as a severe

33 D

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'I'lIKOUdll 'ITIK GOLD-FIELDS OF

penalty awjiits those found selling them whisky,
they can seldom indulge in their favourite vice.
By 10 P.M. all is ready for a start. We have
no mountaineering paraphernalia, and are armed
sim[)ly with tln-ee stout wooden staffs cut that
afternoon, but these are discarded long before
the summit is reached. Passing the silent
white tents of our sleeping companions, we enter
a dark and narrow defile that becomes steeper
and steeper as the Pass is approached. The
trail is rough and stony and intersected by
numberless streams, while tree stumps, gnarled
roots, and tangled brushwood occasionally bring
us down headlong. Presently the forest becomes
less dense and patches of snow appear on either
hand. An hour later we take our first rest,
drenched with perspiration, at Stonehouse, a
rocky ledge overhanging the first of seven or
eight snowy ' plateaus ' that must be crossed to
reach the foot of the actual peak, which is itself
nearly 1,000 feet high. The Chilkoot cannot
really be called ' a Pass.' It w^ould be considered
a dangerous mountain in Switzerland, and a
question of guides, ropes, and ice-axes.

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ALASKA TO BEKL\a STUAITS

Stonoliouso m tlio limit of trees. A hugo
graiiito mck, shaped soinethiiig like u liuiiuiii
dwelling, suggested the name. We found our
Indians huddled up uiuler this, sheltered from
an icy wind tliat whistled through my fur jaelvet
as though it were niuslin. After a hrief halt
we pushed on, descending a steep ridge until
we stood on the first iee-plateau. The travelling
here was much easier and we went cautiously
ahead in Indian file, two ' Siwashes ' ' in front,
two in the rear, and ourselves in the centre.
And yet this portion of the ascent is, perhaps,
the most perilous. This ' plateau,' like all the
others, was broken away beneath by numerous
watercourses, and was simply a kind of crust
suspended 15 to 20 feet above the ground. Had
there been fir-trees below we should have been
standing on the upper branches ! There was
absolutely no path or trail to guide one, and
huge crevasses where the snow had fallen in
upon some foaming torrent appeared at frequent
intervals. We progressed but slowly, for our
guides probed the snow carefully at every step.

' The Alaskan term for Indians.

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THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

They knew that a break through would mean
certain death. These plateaus increased in
steepness until, midway up the last, we had
thrown away our sticks and were scrambling
painfully on hands and knees. It was necessary
to scratch holes in the snow with our fingers
to gain any ground. The Indians, with their
heavy packs, used short knives for this purpose,
but stopped every few moments to regain their
breath, for which I was not sorry. It was im-
possible to rest for more than a few moments,
for to let go would have meant a fall of perhaps
a couple of hundred feet to the foot of the slope.
The Bishop of Alaska has described this portion
of the ascent as ' hair-raising ' work, and he
does not exaggerate. To make matters worse,
a thin drizzling rain now fell, which chilled us
to the bone and made the going even worse than
before. These plateaus appeared to be oval in
shape. Each terminates in a kind of narrow
antechamber formed by enormous boulders.
These gloomy portals, which were passed with
some difficulty, recalled Dore's pictures of the
' Inferno,' and the outlook, ^^ hen we emerged from

i' il'

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ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

them on to another almost perpendicular wall of
ice, was not a cheerful one. The scene was one
of utter desolation. Here and ^here, below us,
masses of black rock dotted the white expanse,
like islands on a sea of snow; while overhead
towered the grim spectral peak of the Chilkoot,
rendered still more vague and terrible by a
rapidly rising mist. This presently grew so
dense that further progress became impossible.
Scaling tlio rocky ridge that encloses the last
* plateau,' we descended into a kind of cavern,
which, though open to the rain, afforded some
protection from the cutting blast. Here we man-
aged to light a smoky, spluttering fire, over which
we shivered until the grey dawn partly dispelled
the fog and enabled us to resume our journey.

We soon reached the actual base of the
Chilkoot, and here hard work commenced in
grim earnest up the granite face of the moun-
tain. The distance from our camping ground
to the summit is barely 1,000 feet, but the
ascent occupied nearly two hours. There is of
course no path, nor would it be possible to make
one; for f rocks are loose and insecure and

ilr

: m

TTTEOUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

;

(

ilic |)iissas'e of a mim will often send a bonldev
cnishino- down, to the deadly peril of those
below. In some places it was necessary to
squeeze round the wall of the precipice on
narrow ledges of rock that trembled under
foot and threatened to dislodge and send one
whirling through space into eternity. The last
300 feet was like scaling the walls of a
house. With ropes and proper appliances, the
passage of this mountain could be made far
easier ; but it was, under the circumstances, such
exhausting, heart-breaking work that I more
than once had serious thoughts of turning back.
Finally, however, at about 4 a.m., we stood on the
summit, breathless, bleeding, and ragged, but
safe. ]\Ty aneroid gave the altitude at 3,G20
feet above sea level.

Lake Lindemann is now about nine miles
distiint. The downward trail from the summit
is conijiarativcly easy. We accomplish it by
simply sitting down on the snow and coasting
down the steep declivity for about 500 feet, at a
furious rate, to Crater Lake, one of the sources
of the Yukon Eiver. Crater Lake retains ice

■f^}

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iiii; cMKuw i)i \i.\^,k\ m;\i;iN(i iiii; nimmii iii- iiii. i nil. knur

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ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

throughout the year, but the summer sunshine
has covered it with a layer of shish knee-deep
that considerably retards our progress. A
bHnding snow-storm now adds to our discomfort,
but we trudge steadily on, with numbed limbs
and tinghng faces, and are presently rewarded
by the. sight of a strip of blue sky: the herald
of fairer weather ahead. Some deep snow-drifts
are crossed before we reach timber-Hne. I
notice here a pecuhar phenomenon : our foot-
prints leaving a luminous, greenish impression
as bright as electric hght, which only fades after
two or three seconds. I beheve that the same
effect has been noticed by explorers in North-
eastern Siberia during certain seasons of the
year. The trail becomes worse as we near the
plain, and we now splash through mud and
snowy slush, occasionally waist-deep, with
intervals of icy cold water to wade through.
Towards 9 a.m. a halt is made for breakfast,
consisting of some biscuits, a cake of chocolate,'

I I have found the ' Kola Chocolate ' made by Christy, of Lime
Street, E.G., invaluable on these occasions.

);,

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1 !

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THliOUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

and a nip of whisky apiece. We are dripping
with rain and perspiration, aching in every limb,
and ready to drop with fatigue ; but another
four miles lies between us and our destination :
four miles of mud and morass (for ice and snow
have disappeared), also a broad swift stream,
where Harding is nearly swept away by the
force of the current, and across which Father
Barnum is borne, like some patriarch of old, by
an Lidian. Another steep ascent of about 800
feet brings us to the summit of a range of hills
covered with dense brushwood. Here the fog
lifts and at last reveals the blue w^aters of Lake
Lindemann sparkling in the sunshine at our
feet. A tiny cluster of white tents is visible on
the shores of the lake, and we can now dispense
with our guides, who have already dropped far
behind, weighed down by the heavy packs. At
midday we reach camp (after a walk of nearly
fourteen consecutive hours), so exhausted that
one foot will scarcely follow the other, and are
made welcome in a friendly tent until our own
comes up. I have roughed it in most parts of

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

the world— among others, Borneo, Siberica, and
Chinese Tartary— but I can safely describe that
chmb over the Chilkoot as the severest physical
experience of my life.

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THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

CHAPTER III

THE LAKES

1 \

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Lalie Lifuleuuuui to LaJce Marsh

Alaska is one of the few countries in the world
where, so far as travelling facilities are concerned,
money goes for nothing. Here all grades are
equal, from the Government official to the San
Francisco ' tough.' At Lake Lindemann, for
instance, a boat must be built. There is no hired
labour procurable. Every man, be he millionaire
or miner, must turn to, and not only fell the
timber for its construction, but also saw it into
planks — a by no means easy or agreeable opera-
tion if the novice is afflicted with weak eyes and
gets the lower berth in a sawpit. There is no
attempt at shape or symmetry, or, in many cases,
even safety. Our own skiff, which was rapidly
approaching completion, and which Cooper dis-
played with pardonable pride, gave me the

1 1 ♦

ALASKA TO BEEING STRAITS

impression of being as crank as a Thames canoe,
an impression which her launch verified. Joe
contended that, being unaware of the addition to
our party, he had built his boat for three men,
and not for four ; and poor Father Barnum was
the innocent and unconscious cause of many
heated arguments, which, as the Father barely
weighed ten stone, were— on Cooper's side-
scarcely tenable. At any rate, our craft compared
favourably with some of those launched by the
miners, who frequently set out from the lakes
only to find a watery grave in the rapids below.

Some steaming hot coffee and ' flap-jacks '
were at once produced by the Good Samaritan
who gave us shelter : one Mr. Ash, a dramatic
agent travelling to Circle City with the nucleus
of a theatrical company, consisting of a massive
golden-haired lady of pleasing presence in
bloomer costume. The other artists were on
their way to the same place via St. Michael's.
Mr. and Mrs. Ash had been here for some time,
their numerous belongings having entailed the
construction of a ' scow,' a kind of barge capable
of carrying from ten to fifteen tons. A large and

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THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

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■ill

carefully packed roulette board suggested that
Mr. Ash's energies were not to be wholly confined
to the production of plays on arrival at his
destination.

The outfit did not arrive for several hours,
and we sat smoking and chatting with our amus-
ing hostess the greater part of the day, occasion-
ally strolling down to the beach to see how the
boat was progressing. She was so nearly com-
pleted that there was no work for us to do. Quite
thirty people were encamped here, nearly all
miners bound for the gold-fields. Every species
of boat was in course of construction, the less
skilful travellers contenting themselves with
rudely built, rickety rafts.' The day was cloud-
less, and the sun so powerful that when the
Indians came up our saturated clothes had dried
on us. We felt no ill effects, oddly enough, but
woke the next morning as fresh as larks. At
11 A.M. we resumed our journey.

Lake Lindemann is the smallest of a series
of five lakes that must be crossed before the
upper waters of the Yukon River are reached.

' The timber used is spruce or pine.

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ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

This lake is about six miles long, with an average
width of one mile. Its shores consist of low
granite cliffs but sparsely wooded in places, on
account of the quantity of timber that has been
felled by travellers for boat-building. The lower
end of the lake terminates in a bad river passage
(about three-quarters of a mile long, with a fall
of twenty-two feet), which would be called a rapid
in any other country. This entails a ' portage '
or carrying of the outfit overland, from the foot
of one lake to the head of the next. The boat
thus lightened is then either ' run through ' by
one or two men, or drifted down with a rope into
smooth water. Lake Lindemann was now quite
clear of ice, but it is generally frozen from
November until May.

It is fortunate that a still clear day favoured
the trial trip of our skiff down Lake Lindemann,
for otherwise I doubt (being a poor swimmer)
whether these pages would ever have seen
the light. Our boat displayed (when packed
with men and baggage) a freeboard of exactly
two inches, and the slightest movement brought
the water rippling over the gunwale. Joe had

!»

1 1 '

THROUOH THE GOT.D-FTELDS OF

thou^'htfully provided her with a sail ; but as a
sudden puff of wind would have meant a certain
upset, we refniined from usin^' it. It was scarcely
p(3ssil)lo to use a paddle, much less an oar, with-
out capsizing. Our departure was watched with
interest from the bank, where odds were freely
laid on our not getting a hundred yards. It was
ticklish work, but Father Barnum displayed his
usual coolness under the trying circumstances.
' I can't swim,' sala the Father, smiling com-
placently, and taking his seat with mathematical
precision on tbe centre of a pile of baggage,
' but we certainly can't walk ! '

But although progression was naturally slow,
the foot of the lake was safely reached in under
three hours, and I have seldom felt more relieved
to find myself on terra firma. Having landed
our outfit, the Father, Harding, and I proceeded
to portage it to the second lake, while Joe ran the
boat through — an operation that, even to Joe's
surprise, was safely accomplished. Portages
are one of the many curses of Alaskan travel.
It is hard work for a ' tender-foot ' to trail
through sand and struggle through brushwood

ALASKA TO BEKING STRAITS

with a blitzing sun overhead and 60 or 70 lbs. to
carry. The portage was over a mile in length,
and as the (lujintity of l)aggage entailed three
journeys, n-u cainped for the night near a saw-
njill at tJK^ liead of Lake Bennett. The men in
charge of the mill were willing to sell their
boat— a stoutly built, shapely little craft— for
^00, and I gladly closed the bargain. Our new
purchase was christened ' Maijorie,' Cooper's
discarded chef-cVceuvre receiving the not in-
appropriate name of the ' Slug.' The outfit was
stowed in the hitter, which enabled us to travel
the 600 odd miles to Forty-Mile City in com-
parative comfort— and safety.

We are now approaching British territory,
the boundary hne crossing a few miles below
the head of Lake Bennett, which is about
twenty-six miles long by live or six miles
broad, and is famous for its violent storms.
Our first day's experience verified this fact.
The lake is surrounded by steep rugged cliffs
and its rocky shores render it very difficult
in bad weather, to run for shelter or effect a
landing. The suddenness with which gales

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THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

I i>

spring up here is truly remarkable. Bennett
may be as calm and placid as a looking-glass
one moment, and in less than half an hour a
mountainous sea may be running. This was
not quite so in our case, for when we started it
was blowing a stiff breeze and the saw-mill
people warned us that it would probably turn into
a gale before long. The wind was favourable,
however, so we hoisted the little ' Marjorie's '
huge square sail and were presently flying through
the water, the ' Slug ' towing astern with Harding
at the tiller. Had the wind kept steady, we
must have run the length of the lake in three or
four hours, but it came in squalls, which in-
creased in violence, while a grey lurid sky, flecked
with ragged, flying clouds, looked anything but
reassuring. There was soon a heavy sea on,
but the * Marjorie ' rode the billows like a duck,
although the heavy, lumbering ' Slug ' kept pull-
ing her under water, so much so that it became
necessary at last to cut the latter adrift. At
thvj same moment a furious gust tore the sheet
out of my hand, and our boat, losing headway,
shipped a tremendous sea that set all hands

ALASKA TO BERING 8T11AITS

baling for dear life. There was now nothing for
it but to run for a sandy spit about two miles
distant, and about nine miles from our starting
point. We made this welcome haven after a
hard pull of nearly two hours, for a sail would
have been torn Lo ribbons. Harding did not get
in till we had camped for the night, having been
blown away nearly to the opposite shore, and
having twice narrowly escaped shipwreck.

We hauled the boats up on the tiny beach,
for it was useless to think of setting out again
until the gale abated, which appeared unhkely
for at least twenty-four hours. The sandy spit
upon which we landed was already occupied by
another traveller driven to it, like ourselves, by
the gale. This was a queer-looking little fellow,
an Austrian, with tangled flaxen hair and wild-
looking blue eyes. He seemed pleased to see us,
and no wonder, stranded in this lonely, desolate
spot with very little food and no tent. ' Dutchy '
(as Cooper called him) was travelling alone, and in
such a crank little tub that we marv^Ued how he
had managed to get even thus far on his journey,
for his boat was like a ' coracle,' almost circular.

49 K

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'rriROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

Thcat night, while my companions slept, we had
a long chat over the stove and a glass of grog,
while the tempest raged outside and threatened
at times to carry away the tent. My friend was
a native of Wagram, and had served through the
Herzegovinian campaign. He had, on the ex-
piration of his service, emigrated to the States,
and, like many others, had drifted on to Alaska,
allured by the tempting offers of shipping com-
panies on the Pacific coast. ' Dutchy ' informed
me that five men had already been drowned on
Lake Bennett this year, and that two of his
acquaintances, who had crossed the Chilkoot in
January to get a good start of their companions,
had perished near here of starvation. Their
bodies were found by the first party in the ensuing
spring. The poor fellows had eaten their sleigh-
dogs, and even part of their gum boots as a last
resource.

Towards morning we took advantage of a
temporary lull to get afloat again, although
there was still a sea on that would have been
called rough in the Eng ish Channel. The wind
was still aft, so we cut down our large square-

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

sail to a 'le^^ of mutton,' and, lengthening the
' Slug's ' tow-rope, shoved off, and for a time
made fair progress. Dutchy disconsolately
watched our preparations, not daring as yet
to venture out in his cockle-shell. Poor little
Dutchy ! I have often wondered if he reached
his destination. I fear not, for we made many
inquiries at Circle City, and news travels fast
down river. But we never heard of him
again.

The lull was unfortunately only temporary.
We had scarcely run a couple of miles before it
came on to blow quite as hard, if not harder,
than yesterday. Reefing the sail, we took to
the oars, but made scarcely any headway, for the
' Marjorie ' was continually swept by heavy seas,
that also dashed the ' Slug ' against her, and
threatened to knock a hole through her side.
We eagerly scanned the shores of the lake with
glasses to find a place of shelter, but nothing
met the eye on every side but a foaming im-
passable barrier of breakers. The ' Slug ' after
her performance of yesterday could not be left
to her own devices, and as it was now a question

51 K2

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THEOUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

■ I

'\ I

of ' sink or swim,' we resolved to risk it and run
for the land. How we ever reached it remains
a njy story, for both boats were oftener under
than on the water, and both were waterlogged
when the last breaker dashed us, with an omin-
ous crash of splintering wood, against the rocks.
Joe, with a long line, made a dash for the shore
and had the rope round a tree in a second. The
outfit was drenched of course, but the boats
were not actually stove in, so, all things
considered, we \vere not so badly off — for
Alaska !

Our camping place is not an improvement
on the Sandspit, which is still dimly visible
through a blur of mist and flying scud. The
boats are hauled up mto safety with difficulty, for
the ledge of rock on which we stand is fully nine
feet above the water, but only about thirty feet
by twenty in area, The tent is pitched by means
of two oars and many loose rocks, and the re-
mainder of the day is devoted to drying our kit
— no easy task at a tiny ' Yukon stove.' Late
in the afternoon we are startled by the sound of
voices raised above the roaring of the wind.

ALASKA TO BERING STEAITS

They proceed from Mr. Ash's huge scow,
which is making fairly good weather of it under
a reefed square-sail, though the seas occasion-
ally break heavily over her bows. Mrs. Ash is
seated in the stern (' like Cleopatra in her barge
of state,' murmurs the Father), and gracefully
waves us a farewell. The scow is doing a
good eight knots, and in less than half an hour
they have disappeared.

The day drags miserably away. Conversa-
tion is impossible (one must shout to be heard)
and we have no books, so silent solace is foimd
in tobacco. During the evening the tent is
blown down bodily, enveloping us like a huge
winding sheet, and is nearly set alight by the
smouldering embers of the lire. We do not
attempt to re-pitch it, for the sky seems a tritle
clearer, and the gale less violent. We therefore
roll up in our blankets on the hard slippery
rocks, ready to start at a moment's notice.
But the tent is up again by breakfast-time, for
it is now blowing a hurricane.

Another day goes by. We turn in that
night fully piepared to undergo a week in

'•i^'i^i:^

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THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

this dreary prison. But this ^Yild northern land
is one of extremes — for good and e^'ih I am
a^Yoke about 3 a.m. by Joe. The boats are ah'eady
in the water, which is lazily lapping against the
rocks, and presents as unruffled a surface as the
Thames at Marlow on a fine summer's day, and
this although the wind only dropped about mid-
night. There is now not a breath of air, but by
10 A.M. we have covered a good ten miles at
the oars, and the foot of the lake is already in
sight. The glorious sunshine now reveals a
landscape that for the past three days has been
shrouded in dense driving mist. The shores of
the lake are of a limestone formation, and its lower
end broadens out mto a lovely valley trending
northwards. The scenerj^ here closel}' resembles
parts of Switzerland. Bennett is fringed with
well-timbered slopes alternating with stretches
of meadowland. Away on the horizon snowy
peaks 8,000 to 10,000 feet high glitter on every
side against the cloudless blue, and form a
picturesque background to a panorama of sunlit
desolation. The air is cool and delicious, the
mid-day heat tempered by a soft breeze. One

ALASKA TO BERING 8TIUITS

can scarcely realise that a few short weeks
will convert this siiiimiery scene into a howl-
ing ice-bound waste with the thermometer at
70° below zero.

A hard pull of four hours from here brought
us to Caribou Crossing, which connects Lake
Bennett with Lake Tagish, the third of the chain.
The glorious uncertainty of Alaskan travel is
shown by the fact that our journey across Lake
Bennett has occupied four days, and we con-
fidently expected to accomplish it in as many
hours.

Caribou Crossing, a broad sluggish stream,
is three and a half miles long, and so shallow
in places that we could scarcely get the boats
through. There are, however, deep channels
where scows may pass, but these can only be
found by sounding and after considerable trouble
and difficulty. The Crossing derives its name
from the fact that large herds of caribou are said
to migrate across the stream at certain seasons.
At 3 P.M. we entered Lake Tagish, and a halt
was made for dinner. The meal was hurriedly
despatched, for Lake Bennett had inspired us

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THKOUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

witli II wliolosoine dread of bad weather and an
equally e.'iger desire to get clear of the lakes.
And yet I could willingly have lingered for ni.'iny
hours in this beautiful spot. Nature seemed to
wish to compensate for her past bad behaviour
by treating us to an absolutely perfect day.
The sky, as blue as a sapphire, was unllecked
by the tiniest cloud, not a breath of air stirred
the flowers and foliage at our feet, while the
smell of the grass, song of birds, and drowsy
hum of insects combined to render our camp a
veritable oasis of rest and comfort, seldom met
with in this inhospitable land, which seems to
resent the presence of man by refusing him
the very means of existence.

Tagish Lake, about seventeen miles in
length, is, from a picturesque point of view, the
finest of the chain. It has several long and
narrow extensions, and one of these, which is
known as ' Windy- Arm,' is a source of dread to
travellers, for it is nearly always swept by a
gale. As far back as Juneau we had heard
Windy-Arm Sj^)oken of with bated breath, and
at this point everyone was expecting a inau-

■w*

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

vais quart d' /ten re. As a rule, few pass this

spot without having good cause to remember it ;

but to-day the lake was hke a mirror, and the

water so clear and phicid that it made one

giddy to look over the side of the boat. Gold

has been found at Windy- Arm. A quartz ledge

with a few dollars to the ton was once located,

but afterwards abandoned on account of the

difficulty of bringing machinery into the

country. The marble deposits here may one

day be valuable, for they are numerous and the

marble of excellent quality. About midway

down Tagish a huge arm or tributary comes in

from the south. This sheet of water can be

traced for a considerable distance, and is over a

mile wide at the junction. Indians say that the

Taku runs back for fifty miles and that other lakes

lie beyond, but this country is quite unexplored.

Lake Tagish is connected with Lake Marsh

by a broad, sluggish stream, about five miles

long, bordered by low, swampy banks covered

by spruce and cotton-wood trees. About midway

is an Indian settlement — a collection of ruined

huts— known as ' Tagish Houses,' and practically

( I

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'it

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THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

deserted. The Tagisli Indians are even of a
more de^ifraded type than the ThHnkits, and are
now principally found on the coast, where they
find it easier to live than in the interior. The
half-dozen or so who were prowling about were
a ragged miserable-looking set of wretches, very
unlike one's preconceived ideas of the ' Child of
the Forest ' as depicted by Aimard and Mayne
Reid. The huts were mostly nailed up, for there
is generally not a soul in the place. We landed
to try to purchase some caribou meat or fresh
fish, and, if possible, utilise a hut as a camping
place ; but the filth and stench in the one dwelling
available soon drove us back to the boat. On
the door of one tumbledown shanty the following
inscription, scrawled in pencil on a dirty piece
of paper, was nailed : —

First Charlies House.
i go to 60 mile river.
White man pleas no tak anything.
i come bak in 2 year.

' First Charlie ' was probably of a facetious
turn of mind, for there was, apparently, nothing
to take. With the exception of Thron-Duick

^ .«)

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

(now known as Klondike), this is the only Indian
settlement of any size between the coast and
Forty-Mile City.

We encamped towards 10 r.M. on Lake Marsh,
a short distan^i-e from the mouth of the river,
making for a spot where a white tent showed that
there was a piece of sound ground ; for this is
scarce enough on the shores of this swampy lake.
It was named Marsh after a celebrated professor
of that name by the explorer Schwatka, but the
Yukon miners, ascribing the derivation to a more
practical source, usually call it ' Mud Lake,' and
this is no misnomer. We had to anchor the boats
and wade for some distance to land, and had no
sooner reached it than the mosquitos swarmed
about us in myriads. Those who have not visited
Alaska in summer-time can form no conception
of the sufferings inflicted by these pests, who now
attacked us for the first time and continued to do
so incessantly, night and day, until Bering Sea
was reached. For the first few days after this,
and until we got more or less accustomed to the
annoyance, conversation, sleep, and even eating,
were quite out of the question. I have camped

IMAGE EVALUATION
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THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

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out after a hard day's woi'k, famished with hunger,
and yet unable to raise a mouthful to my lips,
owing to the persistent onslaughts of these pests,
who are indeed one of the greatest curses of this
great northern land. Even the Indians suffer
tortures from May until September, but their
bodies are smeared with rancid oil, and the smell
affords them a protection denied to the white
man. A Yukon mosquito will torture a dog to
death in a few hours, and frequently drive bear
and deer into the water. There is no remedy.
We kept a damp rag smouldering all night in the
tent, which nearly suffocated us, but had no effect
whatever on our tiny enemies. An Irish miner,
who occupied the tent we had seen, was lying
prone on the ground, face downwards, his supper
untouched beside him. The man had been here
only two hours, but his hands and features were
swollen to twice their natural size ; for he had
come unprovided with mosquito netting, of which
we were fortunately able to spare him a piece.
From this day until we reached St. Michael, it
was impossible to move a yard without gloves and
a veil, and even these only afforded a very slight

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

protection. There was no rest to-night till a
strong breeze set in about 4 a.m. and blew our
tormentors away. We then, like the poor Irish-
man, turned, supperless, into our blankets.

But a still sultry morning brought back the
foe in overpowering swarms, which compelled
us to pull out on to the lake at a very early
hour. While breakfast (which cons?sted largely
of mosquitos) was being hurriedly despatched,
a large scow appeared at the mouth of the
river, and presently anchored off our camp.
This, much to our surprise, contained the Ash
party, who had passed us so gaily on Lake
Bennett, but had, almost immediately afterwards,
met with disaster. The stearing gear had broken,
and the scow, rendered unmanageable, had gone
ashore on the rocks about four miles below our
camp. But for the delay caused by the accident
and necessary repairs, they would by now have
reached the rapids. Poor ' Cleopatra ' looked
sadly fatigued and travel-stained, and I regret to
add that her language was, on this occasion, far
from classical.

A pleasant sail of a few hours brings us,

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THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

without mishap, to the foot of Lake Marsh, which
is about nineteen miles long. We now enter
the Fifty-Mile River, where two awkward rapids
must be negotiated before Lake Le Barge is
reached. The ' Grand Canon ' and ' White
Horse ' Rapids are generally looked upon as the
chief stumbling-blocks on the river journey from
Dyea to the Yukon gold-fields, and, as such,
p erhaps deserve a chapter to themselves.

Hit

! M

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

CHAPTER IV

THE KAPIDS

Tlie ' Grand Carton '—The ' White Horse '

* Look out ! There's the rag,' cries Joe Cooper
from the bows.

In an instant everyone is on the alert, for
there is no time to be lost. It takes a sharp pair
of eyes to make out a small weather-stained piece
of red calico, that some philanthropic miner
has nailed to a tree to warn travellers that they
are nearing the dreaded ' Grand Canon.' This
primitive danger signal, almost concealed by
foliage, is placed, in the usual happy-go-lucky
Alaskan style, about 100 yards above the fall,
which is invisible, owing to a sharp bend of the
river. Once past this bend, a boat is swept
headlong into the Canon, and, if heavily loaded,
nothing can save her. A black notice-board,
with ' Danger,' in large white letters, prominently

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

fixed, say, 200 yards above this spot, would have
saved many lives; but in this country fatal
accidents are seldom taken into consideration
until they occur. Many a lonely grave on the
banks of the Fifty-Mile River bears witness to
this fact ; for during this portion of the journey
scarcely a day passed that we did not see some
cairn or rude wooden cross marking the last
resting-place of some drowned pilgrim to the land
of gold.

We have lazily drifted here from Lake Marsh,
for the force of the current renders a sail useless
and rowing unnecessary. The Fifty- Mile River
is fringed by steep banks of sand and cement,
where millions of martins have built their nests,
and appear to subsist entirely (much to our
satisfaction) on our hetes noires, the mosquitos.
The Grand Canon is about thirty miles from
Marsh Lake. Camping about five miles above
the fall on the first night, we reach it early the
following day. There is nothing but the afore-
mentioned rag to herald the approach of danger.
The roar of the rapid is only heard a few yards
off. Only an old experienced hand can detect the

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

increasing velocity of the boat, or note, here and
there, an ominous 'riffle.' The river has an
average width of 200 feet, but narrows here to
about 70 feet, with perpendicular walls of red
volcanic rock. Midway down the rapid is broken
by a perilous whirlpool caused by a circular en-
largement of the channel. The bodies of those
drowned here are never recovered. Some quote
this as a proof that there is a subterranean
passage for part of the water, but this is purely
theoretical.

We make a landing with some difficulty, and
only just in time, on the right-hand bank, where
several miners are already encamped awaiting
fresh arrivals before they run through, for help
at the head and foot of the Cailon is almost
essential. Lightening the boats, we secure a
shady nook for the mid-day meal, for the tem-
perature of 90° in the shade is more suggestive of
Aden than Alaska. During dinner, Joe Cooper
entertains us with such graphic accounts
of the disasters that have occurred here that
no one seems anxious to dispute his proposi-
tion that he (Joe) and an * old-timer ' friend

65 f

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TPTEOIIGPT TPIE 00L1)-FIELDS OF

from the nei^dibouring camp shall run the boats
through. Indcod, it is unanimously agreed that
our guide's preference for an experienced ship-
mate is, under the circumstances, only natural,
and the alacrity with which we fall in with his
plan is as spontaneous as it is sincere. Nor
does anyone evince keen disappointment on
hearing that only two men are required for the
job.

There is a portage here of over a mile.
Shouldering our packs, Father Barnum, Harding
and I set out first for the foot of the rapid over-
land. A stiff climb of twenty minutes brings us
to the edge of a cliff immediately overhanging
the mass of roaring breakers and seething foam,
and here the noise is so deafening that one must
shout to be heard. Cooper and his mate are still
visible at our camping place, preparing to embark,
so we lay down our packs to rest awhile and watch
the run through. There is something terrific in
the way the tori'ent rushes through the place.
One wonders not that accidents happen, but that
anyone ever reaches smooth water in safety.
The force of the current through the dark narrow

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TUK GHAND CANON, OK * MINF.R'S GKAVE,' ALASKA

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ALASKA TO BERING STKAITS

gorge is so tremendous, that the streiiJii (for the
entire distance of nearly a mile) is forced to a
crest about four feet high in the centre, like a
sloping roof. It is necessary to keep on this crest,
as several ugly-looking black rocks on either side
testify ; but the current, fortunately, tends towards
it. Harding threw a large log over, which went
whirling down for a short distance and was then
suddenly sucked under and lost to view. The
most powerful swimmer in the world would stand
no chance here, and no one who has ever got in
has lived to relate his experiences.

Presently we see the ' Marjorie ' shove off
from the shore. Hardly is she clear than Joe
and his companion give way for dear life, Joe
steering with a paddle and the other at the
sculls, for good way must be got on a boat, before
entering the rapid, to keep her straight. A hair's-
breadth deviation from the true course, and all
is lost. The first pitch is down about fifty
feet of smooth water at a steep incHne, down
which the ' Marjorie ' shoots Hke an arrow. In
less than twenty seconds more she is dashing
past us at the rate of twenty miles an hour, but

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THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

ultlion^di iho littlo craft is uh Imoyaiii us a cork,
we can see that her occupants are already sitting
shin-deep in water. Suddenly a huge breaker
dashes over the bows, and, for a moment of
intense suspense, she shivers and dwells, as
though about to settle down. But another
friendly billow catches her aft, and swings her
forward again with a rolling, sidelong motion
that brings our hearts into our mouths. Fo.
perhaps half a minute we anxiously watch her
tearing away on her perilous journey, now perched
like a sea-bird on the crest of a wave, now buried
in the breakers till only the heads of her crew
are visible. Presently the terrible whirlpool,
which has been the death of so many, is reached ;
but the steersman is as steady as a rock, and
she nears it, passes it, and leaves it behind her
in safety, and the next moment is lost to sight
behind the protruding cliffs. Then, with a sigh
of relief, we take up our packs, and prepare to
rejoin her. When, an hour later, we do so, the
' Slug ' ha s also passed through the ordeal with-
out mishap, and we re-load her preparatory to
pushing on to the head of the White Horse

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ALASKA TO SEEING STRAITS

rapids, where a halt is to bo made for the
night. ^

If the Grand Canon has caused many ter-
rible deaths, it has also been the scene of some
truly marvellous escapes; notably that of a
couple of Swedish miners two or three years ago.
These men, not noticing the danger-signal, were
swept into the rapid so unexpectedly that their
suddenly perilous position deprived them of all
thought or action. A party of miners, camped
on shore, witnessed the occurrence, and saw
them throw their hands up with a gesture of
despair, and crouch, paralysed with terror, in the
bottom of the boat. The latter, oddly enough,
rode the waters in safety until the whirlpool,
when, not being steered, it was, sucked right into
the fatal vortex. All assistance from the shore
was, of course, out of the question, and those
who saw the accident stood by helpless, momen-
tarily expecting a fatal ending. But after whirl-
ing round, at lightning speed, for nearly an hour.

' The time taken by the ' Maijorie ' to run the Canon was a
littlo under two minutes, but the ' Shtg,' steering badly, took con-
siderably longer, and was once nearly swamped.

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THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

the fragile skiff (by one of those unaccountable
freaks occasionally indulged in by Nature) was
seen to draw clear of the eddy, and the men
were eventually landed, half-dead with fright,
but safe, at the foot of the fall.

The ' Marjorie ' has sprung a slight leak
which necessitates calking. Leaving Joe to
perform this operation, we cross in the ' Slug ' to
the left bank, and carrying the tent and a few
provisions, set out through the woods for the
head of the White Horse rapid, Joe following
with the boats and outfit. The distance is under
two miles by the river, which runs like a mill-
race, but nearer three by land. The trail lies
through a dense swampy forest, and half the
distance is barely covered when we are literally
driven back by clouds of mosquitos. The air is
black with the pests, which attack us with almost
alarming ferocity. For the first time I no longer
doubt Cooper's assertion that the strongest
men sometimes break down and give way to
tears under their sufferings. Veils and gloves
are absolutely useless. They bite clean through
dogskin, while a thick sweater and flannel shirt

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

might be of muslin for all the protection they
afford. The torture at last becom.cs insupportable,
and we fly for the open, splashing through
morasses at a run, and painfully bruising legs
and feet against roots and tree-stumps in the
process. Even an ' old-timer ' with us confesses
that our tormentors are of unusual size and
virulence, and on reaching the clearing describes
them as being ' as big as rabbits and biting at
both ends ! ' This I can readily believe, for our
faces are swollen and disfigured beyond recog-
nition.' The tent is soon pitched, and a good
fire gives us some relief, although it is neces-
sary to sit right in the blinding, stifling smoke
to obtain it. This was perhaps the worst
camp during the whole journey for mosquitos.
Supper was cooked and eate^^ only with the
greatest difficulty, and as sleep was out of the
question, a start was made at five o'clock the
following morning.

' Klik-Hfis,' '-^ or ' very bad,' is the Indian name

' In Siberia, I have found the essential oil of cloves an admir-
able preventive against mos(iuitos, but in Alaska it is, like every-
thing else as yet tried, quite useless.

- Travellers to tjio Yukon Valley after next year will probably

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THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

for the White Horse rapids, which are never run
through in small boats except by accident. The
river below the Grand Canon runs through a flat
country until it is crossed at right angles by a
chain of hills and again forced through the narrow
channel forming the rapids. The latter are barely
half a mile in length, and so narrow in places
that one may almost throw a ball of paper from
bank to bank. We drifted our boats doAvn from
a rocky ledge, which, covered with sheet ice,*
made the operation neither an easy nor agree-
able one. No one knows (till they have tried it)
what strain can be got, under the circumstances,
on a 200-foot rope by a light empty boat.

The first plunge into the White Horse is
much more abrupt and dangerous than that into
the Canon, and the water dashes down with a
terrific roar. The foaming crest of the wave

avoid these rapids altogether, for it would be quite feasible to build
a good road or tramway along the eastern bank of the river from
above the Grand Canon to below the White Horse. This will
probably be done in the summer of 1898 to connect with the
steamers that will then no doubt bo plying above and below the
rapids.

' This extended for some distance down from this point in the
backwaters, where it had been washed in great masses, by the
strength of the stream.

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

following the first downward sweep is supposed
to resemble a white horse's mane, and this cir-
cmnstance has christened the fall, but I failed to
see the resemblance. The White Horse is also
known as the ' Miner's Grave,' which, seeing that
a yearly average of twenty men are engulfed here,
seems a far more suitable title. When we pushed
off the ' Marjorie ' she shot into the fall with the
speed of an express train, and we trembled for
her safety. At one point where there is a sudden
drop between two rocks, and the water rushes
through like a cataract, she stuck fast for two
or three seconds, and began to heel over, but a
frantic haul at the line set her straight again
and a few moments later she had reached
safety in the pool below. The ' Slug ' was then
lowered down in a similar manner ; and, after
five hours of this work, under a blazing sun with
a temperature of 94'' in the shade, no one was
sorry to indulge in a few hours' interval for rest
and refreshment.^

A late start was made next morning, for all
hands were pretty well tired out after the exer-

' The total fall iu the Caiion and succeeding rapids is 82 feet.

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THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

tions of the previous day. Fur some distance
below White Horse rapids the current is swift
and the river wide, with many gravel bars, the
distance to Lake Le Barge being under twenty-
eight miles. This was perhaps the pleasantest
part of the journey, for the weather was bright
and pleasant, as we glided swiftly through a
region of rolling hills and under bluffs of sand a
hundred feet high, down which the loose material
was continually rolling in little landslides. The
latter presented a very curious appearance, as
of puffs of white smoke issuing from the side of
the cliffs, and for a time we took them to be of
volcanic origin. About midway down this stretch
the Takheena river flows in from the west. The
Takheena, which rises in Lake Askell, derives its
name from the native w 'ds ' Taka,' mosquito,
and ' Heena,' a river. It is aptly named, as
we discovered when we camped that night on a
sandy spit at the junction of the two streams.
The Takheena has no rapids of any importance,
and is easy of ascent as far as the lake whence
it flows. To-day, for the first time, we saw plenty
of geese and duck, though far out of range.

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

The river here teems with fish. During the
evening Harding successfully lands a huge
monster of weird appearance which Cooper calls
a ' Losh,' and pronounces excellent eating. It is
therefore duly prepared for breakfast, but we find
it coarse and oily, although Joe assures us that
the Hver, fried, is considered a great delicacy.
Father Barnum hkens it to a piece of mouldy
'flap-jack,' fried in tallow, which description
is, if not appetising, correct. Whitefish and
grayling also abound here, and the river above
the rapids is famed for its trout, which are both
fine and numerous.

At 9 A.M. on July 29, having struck camp at
7 A.M., we enter Lake Le Barge, the last of the
chain of five lakes separating the mountain
ranges of the coast from the great Yukon river,
and reahse, with no httle satisfaction, that the
first and most arduous portion of our journey
through Alaska is at an end.

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THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

CHAPTER V

LAKE LE BARGE — FIVE FINGEES — FORT SELKIRK

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Lake Le Barge ' is thirty-one miles long, and
lies nearly north and south. It is situated over
2,000 feet above sea level, and is surrounded by
precipitous mountains, densely wooded to timber-
line, with curiously crenelated limestone sum-
mits. Towards the outlet the mountains recede,
and the foot of the lake is fringed by pictur-
esque valleys, formed partly of pine forest and
partly of meadowland. Le Barge (like Bennett
and Windy- Arm) has an evil reputation for
storms, and travellers are sometimes detained
here for days by stress of weather. To-day,
however, everything looked in favour of a quick

' Lake Le Barge was named after Mike Le Barge, an employ^
of the Western LTnion Telegraph Company, who was employed in
constructing the overland telegraph lino from America to Europe
(via Boring Straits) in 1867. The completion of the Atlantic
Cahle in 18G6 put an-end to this project.

11.

ALASKA TO BEIIING STEAITS

and pleasant passage. The sky was cloiidless,
the bhie waters just ruffled by a cool steady
breeze that kept the sail full, and took us
through the water (the * Slug ' in tow) at a very
fair rate of speed. On portions of Lake Le
Barge a curiously loud and resonant echo may
be heard. A cry would be repeated quite a
dozen times, clearly and distinctly, and when a
rifle was fired, it awakened a perfect salvo of
artillery in the adjacent valleys. Towards
5 P.M. we landed for a while on an island
half-way down the lake. This island (about
four miles long) is, for some obscure reason,
shown on the American explorer Schwatka's
maps as a peninsula. Lie even went so far as
to name it the ' Eichtofen Rocks.' The nearest
point of the island to the western shore is quite
half a mile distant, and as the extreme width
of the lake is only five miles, one can scarcely
conceive how the error arose. ^

A large scow was moored off the island,

' In the slate cliffs that project into Lake Le Barge near this
spot there are many quartz ledges that look favonrable for gold.
When the countrj' reaches the vein-mining stage, it is probable that
many good mines will be opened up in this locality.

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THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

where a gradiuilly shelving pebbly beach afforded
an excellent landing. Making our way to where
a thin colunni of smoke was rising from a clump
of fir trees, we found a party of miners, bound
for Circle City, seated round a camp fire. They
had been here, weather-bound, for three days,
and invited us to share their supper before re-
suming their journey. This meal is engraven
on my memory, for it consisted of some delicious
moose meat, which was a pleasant change from
the pork and beans of everyday life. But even
as we were discussing the first palatable repast
enjoyed since leaving Dyea, a cloud of mosquitos
suddenly darkened the air, and the wind dropped
as if by magic. The crew of the ' Marjorie '
were sorely tempted to trust to luck and indulge
in a square night's sleep in these pleasant
quarters. But wiser counsel, in the person of
Father Barnum, prevailed. The treachery of
Le Barge weather is notorious, and it was re-
solved to push on and pull all night if necessary,
to reach river water. Our unfortunate hosts
(being dependent on the wind) were of course
unable to proceed, and were therefore as badly

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

off as ever. Their langu-'>,ge as they watched us
embark, and rehictantly bade us farewell, was
quite unfit for publication.

It was just past six o'clock in the evening
when we left the island, and I took the first
trick at the sculls. We arranged to row in
watches of an hour throughout the so-called
night ; for, as the reader is aware, there is no
actual darkness, during the summer, in these
regions. The incessant daylight was terribly
irksome and wearying after a time ; so much so
that at Forty-Mile City Father Barnum and I
would close the shutters sometimes, and light a
cardie to escape it, if only for an hour or two.

We pull steadily on over the smooth glassy
surface of the lake till about 1 a.m., when the
clear twilit sky suddenly darkens, and a terrific
thunderstorm, accompanied by the most vivid
hghtning I have ever seen, alters the complexion
of affairs. A thunderstorm in Central Alaska
is, like rain, such a ' rara avis' that we are
not wholly unprepared for the strong gale that
immediately follows. The wind is fortunately
favourable ; but, no sooner do I hoist the sheet,

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THKOUGH THE GOLU-FIELDS OF

than it is torn out of my havulH. The waves
are rising so rapidly that while there is yet
time Joe and Hardin<j[ scramble into the ' Slug,'
leaving the Father and myself to manage the
' Marjorie.' ' Run for the bay ! ' yells Joe,
as he cuts the tow-rope, and the ' Slug ' drifts
rapidly astern ; but instructions are useless,
for a dense mist already veils the shore, two
miles distant, and the ' Marjorie ' is taking in
water by the pailful over the bows. ' Let her
run before it,' says the Father, philosophically
taking up the frying-pan to bale with, ' we are
bound to reach land some time or other — if we
don't sink ! '

And we do reach land, but rather sooner
than we expect. A few minutes later the
' Marjorie ' is brought up all standing with a
crash that nearly sends our mast flying. We
have run full-tilt on to a sandpit backed by
a shadowy black mass that looks like land.
' Jump ! ' cries the Father, ' jump and beach
her ! ' In a moment I am waist deep, gasping
and struggling in icy cold breakers that every
moment threaten to carry me off my feet.

ALASKA TO BEllING STKAITB

Almost siinultaiieously a rift in the mist dis-
closes a patch of yellow beach, and, lightened
of my weight, the ' Marjoric ' glides easily for-
ward for a few yards and finally subsides on
soft yielding sand. A kindly fate has blown our
comrades to the same haven, and shortly after-
wards we are crouching over a spluttering fire
that Joe has kindled with some damp drift-
wood.

It is now 7 A.M., exactly twenty-two hours
since we left the head of the lake — twenty-two
hours of incessant toil, with the exception of a
short rest on the island. The mist has now
partly lifted, but a grey stormy sky still frowns
upon the gloomy landscape, and great white
rollers break upon the beach with a sullen roar.
Our thin linen tent is wringing wet, so there is
nothing for it but to huddle under the lee of the
boats, and sleep until the storm abates. The
outlook is depressing enough, but Father Barnum
is, as usual, resigned, not to say cheerful, under
the circumstances. He has named our camping
places after the letters of the Greek alphabet.
This is Camp ' Eo,' says the good Father, as

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THKOUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

liG slowly disappears beneath a Hudson Bay
blanket ; ' and we've been rowing ever since
yesterday morning ! '

About 4 P.M. the gale moderated. Two hours
later we safely entered the Lewes river, the
mouth of which was situated barely three miles
from Camp ' lio. Here we abandon the ' Slug,*
for which there is no further use, our provisions
having already dwindled down to very scanty
proportions. This portion of the Lewes is usually
known as the Thirty-Mile Biver, that being the
distance from Lake Le Barge to the junction
with the Hootalinqua river. For the first ten
or fifteen miles below the lake the stream runs
like a mill sluice. It was like descending a
series of ' chutes,' and frequent snags and sand-
bars kept all hands busy. Twice we grounded,
and once heeled over at a dangerous angle;
but the Hootalinqua was reached at about mid-
night after an easy, though not over-safe, trip.
Landing was no easy matter, owing to the
swift current, and we made three unsuccessful
attempts. Midnight, however, found us snugly
encamped. A roughly made wooden cross close

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ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

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to our tent had only recently been erected, and
bore no inscription. The grave probably con-
tained some luckless miner who had met his
death by dro\vnin<^'.

The Hootalinqua river drains Lake Teslin,
the hi.'gest body oi water in the Yukon basin.
This river has long excited great interest among
prospectors on account of the gold which has
been found along the whole length of thi^
stream and its tributaries. About .^170,000 have
been taken out by the few miners that have
been here. I saw traces here of many camps
that had been deserted for the richer fields
of the interior. The mountains at the head
of Teslin Lake form part of the Cassiar range,
where the rich Cassiar mines are worked.
One may, therefore, reasonably presume that
gold will ultimately be found on the Hoota-
linqua in paying quantities ; indeed, several ' old-
timers ' on the Yukon predict that it will one
day prove to be an extremely productive gold-
field. For three or four days we travel steadily
towards the north-west. It is pleasant enough,
now, to lie lazily at full length in the bottom

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of the boat, smoking or dozing, and listening to
the soothing swirl of the current as it bears
us rapidly past wild, but beautiful and ever-
changing, scenery. Some little way below the
Hootalinqua month, Eagle Rock is passed : a
huge volcanic crag rent by a great dark cavern,
where many grey eagles rear their young.
Then comes an apparently endless vista of dark
pine forest, succeeded by a panorama of low
rolling hills, stretching away to a chain of
granite peaks, some thousands of feet high, now
streaked with fast melting snow. Then, again,
come the low monotonous banks of sand and
limestone riddled by millions of martins' nests.
A swift run of thirty-three miles from the
Hootalinqua brings us to the Big Salmon river,
and below this point the aspect of the Lewies
is completely changed. The river is generally
wider, and occasionally expands into small
lakes : perfect gardens of wild flowers, but at the
same time prolific breeding places of our tiny
foe. The islets are dangerous to approach
on account of the log- jams which form one of
the chief obstacles to navigation on the Upper

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

Yukon. Many a boat has been swamped and
sucked under by these death-traps, and we
give them a wide berth. The Little Sahnon
river, which flows in from the east, is then
reached, and a few miles further down the
Nordenskiold river (so called by Schwatka)
enters from the westward. This river is one of
the few that have retained the name bestowed
upon it by the late American explorer. It is
known to the natives as the ' Thuch-en-Dituh,'
a word signifying 'We hope and expect to
meet,' for here the inland natives and coast
Indians formerly held an annual rendezvous
for trading purposes. The Nordenskiold is an
insignificant stream, and its outlet is almost
concealed by shoals and weeds ; but gold has
been found in many of its bars, and coal has
also been discovered, and worked in small
quantities, in its vicinity.

The Five Fingers Rapids ' are now the only
serious obstacle between us and salt water, and
these are reached early on July 2. Here a ledge
of rock stretches right across the Lewes, afford-

' Erroneously called ' lli„k llapida ' by Sdiwatka.

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THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

ing but one or two narrow outlets for the swollen
current. The name of these rapids is derived
from five tower-like masses of rock, rising from
the aforementioned ledge, that are situated, at
intervals of a few feet, from shore to shore ; but
the native name ' Yeth-Kat;5e ' owes its origin
to the number of these birds that breed on the
islands. The safest passage is made by hugging
the right bank, but a landing should, under any
circumstances, be made fully fifty yar'^s above
the rapid to lighten the boat. A steep and
difficult (but short) portage leads to the foot of
the fall, w'hich w\as run in safety and without
shipping a cupful of water. This was our last
portage, for the Rink Rapids, six miles below,
although they look ugly enough at a distance,
can be shot in safety with a loaded boat.
Neither of these rapids is considered dangerous,
for there is no record of anyone being drowuied
at either. In the opinion of some. Five Fingers
could even, with some trouble and expense, be
made available for steamboat traffic. From Five
Fingers to the mouth of the Pelly river is under
sixty miles. Just below the rapids the Tatshun

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ALASKA TO BEEING STRAITS

river comes in from the east, and here and lower
down stream we found open breezy camping
places free from mosquitos, which enabled one
to enjoy a night or two's rest : an unattainable
luxury up-river. The day before reaching the
Pelly, a white tent surrounded by gaily coloured
flags is sighted on the right bank. ' Some miner
celebrating the day,' says Father Barnum (for it
is July 4 1). 'Let us land and help him.' But
the stranger is either asleep or of a sohtary dis-
position, for our hails are unheeded. ' I'll soon
rustle him up ! ' says Cooper, drawing on his gum-
boots and splashing ashore ; but he is back in a
moment, with an oath on his lips. ' It's only a
dead Si wash,' ^ he grumbles, resuming his steer-
ing paddle, while I scramble up the steep slippery
bank to inspect the strange burial-place. The
corpse is that of a young, powerfully built Indian,
and has evidently lain there for some days, not
longer, for its thin drill covering is as white as
snow. Near him are his rifle, snowshoes, and
an old Huntley & Palmer biscuit-box ; contents
unknown. The sight is not a pretty one or

' Anniversary of American Independence. - Indian.

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conducive to a prolonged examination, and we
are soon under weigh a^i; .in. The Father
informs us that the Alaskan Indians (like the
Eskimo) always bury their dead in prominent
positions, and in a spot commanding as fair a
view as possible.

A few hours after this the junction of the
Pelly and Lewes rivers is reached at Fort Sel-
kirk, and we are now fairly launched on the
waters of the Great Yukon river, which from this
point pursues a course of about 1,650 miles to
Bering Sea. The country about the confluence
is flat and marshy, and the Yukon, below the
junction, is but one quarter of a mile wide and
has an average depth of ten feet. The Pelly
w^as discovered and named as early as 1840 by
Robert Campbell, who descended it in 1843, and
five years later established Fort Selkirk for the
Hudson Bay Company. Fort Selkirk, which
figures bravely on the maps, is simply a col-
lection of perhaps a dozen ramshackle log-huts
surrounding a neatly built mission house. The
so-called Fort, once a flimsy stockade, was de-
stroyed by Chilkat Indians many years ago, and

ALASKA TO BEEING STRAITS

has never been rebuilt. A fallen chiinney marks
the spot where it once stood.

We found the place almost deserted. A
couple of Siwashes were hoeing a potato patch,
and four white men sunning- themselves outside
the shanty which is dignified by the name of
' Store; where provisions may occasionally be
procured at starvation prices. To-day, however,
a few mouldy beans and some musty flour formed
the stock-in-trade, for nothing in the shape of
food had arrived from civihsation for over ten
months.

Fortunately it is possible to raise a few vege-
tables at this post, and potatoes and turnips
have been grown with a success unattained by
gardening operations further inland. Market
gardening would be profitable enough here with
more customers, for potatoes fetch 3Z. per bushel
at all seasons of the year. Much trouble is,
however, entailed in raising a garden crop ' .n the
Yukon. The soil must be constantly irrigated
from the river, and it is also necessary to blanket
the plants in early spring and late autumn with
the greatest care. Nevertheless the potatoes

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grow here to a verj' fair size. An acre will pro-
duce two hundred bushels.

The four strangers looked verj^ woebegone
as they rose and hobbled to meet us, clothed in
filthy rags, with bare heads and arms, and faces
raw from mosquito bites. The poor fellows had
clubbed together and risked their all to work
gold up the Pelly river, but their boat and
everything she contained was lost in a rapid
after a month's journey up-stream, and they had
returned to Selkirk on a rude raft, after terrible
sufferings and privations, without a penny left.
Their plans for the future were vague enough,
but they displayed extraordinary fortitude and
even cheerfulness under the circumstances. We
further consoled them, for a time at least, with
a few greenbacks and some plug tobacco. A
few paces from the store is (or w^as) a Church
of England mission. The following notice was
nailed to the doorway :

ST.

SAVIOUR'S
Clmrch of Ei

MISSION.
gland.

short

service in English

is held every

Sunday

afternoon at 2.30.

I* ' < i

wtmm

ALASKA TO BEEING STRAITS

Those, however, in need of spiritual comfort must
have fared badly. The pastor of this gloomy
parish had apparently (to use a French term)
' taken the key of the fields,' and, judging from
the dusty, neglected interior of the chapel, had
been absent for at least some months. The
mosquitos here were unbearable, and we speedily
followed the reverend gentleman's example and
departed from this unsavoury settlement— the
first one, by the way, that we had come to since
leaving Dyea, over 400 miles distant. Fort
Selkirk is now called Pelly, and is regarded
as the head of navigation ; but a river steamer
seldom gets as far up as this.

Below Fort Selkirk the Yukon river is from
five to six hundred yards wide, and maintains
this breadth to White river, a distance of ninety-
six miles. Numerous well-wooded islets are
passed, nnd there are many gravel bars. The
current here is much slower than that up-river,
averaging only about four miles an hour. The
Upper Eamparts of the Yukon begin at the
mouth of Pelly river. These are perpendicular
walls of rock that follow the north bank for

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

)

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li' :

li. »

\ '' !

il I

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eighteen miles. The face of this curious forma-
tion, which rises straight out of the water, is as
smooth as pohshed marble, and there is not a
crevice or approachable opening for the entire
distance. The summit of the Eamparts con-
sists of grassy plains or steppes stretching away
far inland, to a range of lofty, rugged hills.

White river, which enters from the west, is
about two hundred yards wide at the mouth.
White river is a swift muddy stream several
hundred miles long. Its waters are of a greyish
colour (hence its name) and discolour the Yukon
for many miles below the junction. Copper is
said to exist in large quantities in this district.
Here we observed a peculiar phenomenon, for
which we were not unprepared, as it has been no-
ticed by many previous travellers. The water for
perhaps a hundred miles below the embouchure
of White river gives out a kind of hissing sound
not unlike freshly opened soda-water. No one
seems able to explain this. Some say that it is
caused by minute particles of sand grating
against the bottom of the boat ; others attribute
it to volcanic causes, and the latter are probably

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

nearer the mark. It seems stranrre that, so far,
no serious attempt has been made to elucidate
the mystery.

Between White and Stewart rivers, a dis-
tance of ten miles, the Yukon is a mile wide,
and is a maze of islands. Stewart river, which
enters from a spacious valley to the eastward,
has been excellently prospected, but has up to
the present time been exploited chiefly by the
'Grub-staker.' It was pretty well" worked
during the seasons of 1885-8G by about forty
men who took out about 25,000/., and this in
a very p ' nitive fashion. ' Old-timers ' predict
that, when machinery is brought on to the scene
of operations, the Stewart river will outrival
Klondike, for this district is exceptionally rich
in gold-bearing quartz. In 1887 a man named
MacDonald explored the Stewart river for a
considerable distance, and found it and nearly
all its tributaries navigable for light-draught
steamers. There are (according to MacDonald)
no rapids of any importance, and the current
is not at all swift. In 1896 a party of about
twenty men were placer-mining about a hundred

fcili*i,i!*.;-.. >

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THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

miles from the mouth, uiid this is the only work
that was then being done on this stream.

About twenty miles below the Stewart Sixty-
Mile Creek enters from the west. This so-called
' Creek ' is about a hundred miles long and very
winding, with a swift dangerous current and
many rapids. Very rich gold discoveries have
been made here, and there is a claim on Miller
Creek (a tributary of Sixty- Mile) from which over
30,000^. has been taken by a single individual.
Glacier, Gold, and Bed Bock Creeks are other
tributaries of Sixty-Mile which continue to show
admirable results.

There is a store and sawmill at the mouth of
Sixty-Mile, and here we halted for the midday
meal. We found a few miners lounging about on
the bank. They had come down from the Sixty-
Mile diggings to await the arrival of the steamer
w4iich makes (or then made) one trip a year to
this point with a year's supplies. The arrival of
the boat creates the wildest excitement ; and no
wonder, for these men were reduced to the verge
of starvation, and had received no news of any
kind from the outer world for many weary months.

ALASKA TO BI^IUN(; 8TKAITS

We had hoped to replenish our larder here, but
were ourselves compelled to part with a portion
of our scanty store. The storekeeper, a wiry-
looking fellow, with keen eyes and a pleasant
smile, attired in ra-s and gum-boots, was chafing
at the tardy arrival of his yearly consignment of
pork, Hour, and other luxuries. We dined in his
parlour, a bare, comfortless room, furnished with
a rickety bench and table, and embellished with
newspaper woodcuts pinned to the grimy walls.
Our host opined that the ' Ahce ' might arrive
before our departure, but ten days were destined
to elapse before her white hull rounded the dreary,
pine-fri)iged river. We waited till evening, how-
ever, and then re-embarked to drift down to a
place then known to perhaps a score of white
men, but now a byword throughout the civihsed
world. ' So long, mates ! ' cried the disconsolate
storekeeper, with a friendly wave of the hand ;
and I saw him slouch back to his dismal abode
with a feehng of pity for one whose life must be
passed amid such cheerless, desolate surroundings.
My pity was, perhaps, misplaced ; but who could
then foretell the dazzhng discoveries of t

iiMi:i---Vi'

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THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

few months, or picture tho f^^okleii Valhalla which
this lonely biickwoodsnmn was unconsciously
nearing ? For our dejected friend no loii'^er
relies upon the sale of beans and i)!icon as a
means of existence. He is now known as the
' Klondike Millionaire,' and his name is Joseph
Ladue.

We paddle lazily down-stream throu-^h the
steely grey twilight until a spot apparently clear
of mosquitos is descried. We are no sooner en-
eami)ed, however, than the pests descend upon
us in myriads. The tent is hermetically closed
and a ' smudge ' ' kindled, but its fumes gradually
become unbearable, and although the Father and
Harding are peacefully slumbering, I am forced
to quit the noxious atmosphere. Outside it is
cool and pleasant, although the air resounds
with the song of venomous legions. Cooper
has preceded me and is down by the river, where
I presently join him. The ' old-timer ' is busy
with a gold-pan, even at this midnight hour, and
is so absorbed that my approach is unheeded.

' A piece of Viv; btecpetl in oil luiil Icfl to \>nvn slowly away
under a eovtiiug ul'ilanii) uiuiis.

'■■"ill

-J

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'HI

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ALASKA TO BERING STEAITS
Joe starts at my touch, and looks up with an
eager anxious expression, very unlike his usual
Phcdity of feature. < Do you ,ee that ? ' he
whispers excitedly, pointing to some tiny particles
of shnnng metal at the bottom of the pan-' That
wgoUr

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

\'7t J

CHAPTER VI

i ^

KLONDIKE

About noon on July 5, the sight of human
habitation once more gladdens the eye, and a
low line of log shanties appears on the right
bank of the river. x±ere, Joe informs us, we
may possibly succeed in replenishing our meagre
stock of provisions. The natives of this
village subsist almost entirely on salmon,
which during certain seasons abound in the
vicinity ; so much so that ' Plenty of fish ' is
the literal translation of the name given to
this settlement by its Indian founders. The
current is so strong that we land only with
difTiculty and the help of a couple of men in
a birch-bark canoe — the first of these graceful
but rickety craft yet encountered. Just below
the village a small river flows into the Yukon
from the east. The water looks so deliciously

iBgaMfciaPillyi ii 1 1 1 I — •- "

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

clear and pure that we fill the water-bucket
and then proceed in search of food, which
indeed is our primary object for landing. In
one of the huts a piece of moose meat is found,
in another some dried salmon (for the latter
have not yet appeared this year), while a third
furnishes (wonders will never cease !) a tiny
sack of flour. There is an air of clean pros-
perity about the dwelHngs which contrasts
strangely with the filthy wigwams up-river.
Most of the young * braves ' are away hunting
and fishing, but we are soon surrounded by a
ring of old men and maidens eager for news
from the coast. Here the sole topic of interest
seems to be, not nuggets, but fish, and, strange
as it may seem, the name of Thron-Duick is
chiefly associated in my mind with clean
Indians and a good square meal. For the
beauty of the place was then unmarred by the
squahd white settlement across the stream,
which, like most Alaskan mining camps,'
suggests a bit of Shadwell or LimehousJ
dropped into the midst of sylvan scenery, and
which is now known throughout the world as

99 ui

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

Dawson City — chief town of the district of
Klondike.^

When the ' Excelsior ' steamed into the
Golden Gate on the morning of July 14, 1897,
San Francisco was at first inclined to regard
as a * fake ' the reports she brought of fabulous
gold discoveries in the far North-West. The
thirty odd miners the ship contained were set
down by many as disciples of Ananias. Their
tales of fortunes made in a day, of pans of .^500
and of mushroom cities, were looked upon as
fairy-tales, until the golden spoil was actually
displayed at Selby's smelting works and found
to be worth half a million dolUrs. Even after
this ocular demonstration some were sceptical
enough to discredit the statement that greater
riches were on the way down from the north.

•;

■M I .

' It is curious, in view of recent events, to read Mr. O'Gilvie,
the Dominion Surveyor's report of this place in 1887. He says :

' Six and a half miles above Reliance the Thion-Duick River of
the Indians (Deer River of Schwatka) enters from tlie east. It
is a small river aboiit forty yards wide at the mouth and shallow ;
the water is clear and transparent and of a beautiful blue colour.
The Indians catch great numbers of salmon here. A miner had
prospected up this river for an estimated distance of forty miles in
1887. I did not see him.'

Mil

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ALASKA TOjBERING STEAITS

Three days later, however, the arrival of the
'Portland' at Seattle, with over a million
dollars, changed douht into certainty, and the
wonderful news was flashed over the world.
Then followed a stampede the like of which
has not been witnessed since the days of '49.
First San Francisco, then New York, and finally
London, caught the fever, and caught it so
badly that time seems to increase rather than
diminish the virulence of the disease. The fact
that the gold was found in a primitive fashion,
and brought down anyhow : in oil-cans, jam-tins,'
and even wrapped in old newspapers, seemed to
offer a special Rttraction to men of moderate
means. The lack of capital and proper mining
apphances seemed to point to a poor man's
' El Dorado.' Consequently a large percentage
of those who went in with the first batch of
gold-seekers are tradesmen, office clerks and
others whose sedentary occupation utterly unfits
them for a life of privation in the frozen land
where Nature guards her treasure so well. On
the Pacific slope last summer, however, no one
thought of the dangers attendant on a journey

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THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

into Alaska, dangers which, for many years past,
have associated the name of ' Yukon ' with an
ugly sound in Western America. Everyone,
from the prosperous merchant to the penniless
loafer, was ' gold-mad.' Warnings from the ex-
perienced as to perilous passes and treacherous
waterways were lightly ignored, w^ith (as time
has shown) deplorable results. So great was
the rush from San Francisco and Seattle, that
homeward-bound passengers from St. Michael
were scarcely able to land owing to the press
of those struggling to take their places on the
outgoing steamers. Li the interior of Alaska
the excitement was even more intense. The
two principal settlements, Forty-Mile City and
Circle City, were practically deserted. Men who
had been in a chronic state of drunkenness for
weeks were pitched into boats as ballast and
taken up to stake themselves a claim. Valuable
claims in other parts of Alaska were abandoned
by experienced ' old-timers,' who should have
known better, and who have perhaps already
lived to regret the day when the magic word of
Klondike was carried into camp ; for in the great

I02

T.'^Vrtfi MTftg "OTAMP- '. Jg 1 ' ' »M

ALASKA TO BERING STKAITS

North- West, as in other lands, ' A bird in the
hand is worth two in the bush.'

When news of the Klondike gold-strike
reached me in an obscure French village,
through the medium of that somewhat dreary
and depressing journal the Paris 'New York
Herald,' I was inchned to disbeHeve the whole
story, not only on account of its American origin
but also because the suddenness of the gold-
finds has been truly remarkable. When I
travelled through the country in 1896, a man
who had scraped together 6,000Z. or 7,000^. after
four or five years' hard work was looked upon
as a ' rara avis,' and the largest nugget then
found weighed under thirty ounces. The atten-
tion of prospectors was mainly centred on Circle
City (in American territory), and, while Klondike
had no meaning in the ears of the civihsed
world, there were not 10,000 white men to be
found in the entire Yukon district from Fort
Selkirk to Bering Sea. Everyone knew there was
plenty of gold. The difficulty was to locate it
in sufficient quantity to repay others than the
poor grub-staker, who digs hterally for his daily

103

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THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

bread, and is satisfied with just enough to keep
body and soul together. Up to the summer of
1896, quite two-thirds of the Yukon prospectors
belonged to this class.

The presence of fine float-gold in the river
sands of Alaska was discovered by the Hudson
Bay Company ofiicials many years ago, but no
mining was done till about the year 1873. In
1880 important finds took place near Juneau,
and from this period up to the present day gold
has cropped up in all directions both in the
interior and on the coast. In 1886, Cassiar
Bar, on the Lewes river, was opened, and a
party of four took out 1,2001. in thirty days,
while other neighbouring bars did fairly well.
Stewart river was also first prospected about this
time, and it is estimated that in 1885 and 1886
this river yielded over 25,000Z. In 1886 coarse
gold was reported on Forty-Mile Creek. Three
or four hundred miners were collected there in
1887, and all did well, although no extraordinary
finds are recorded.^ Some fair-sized nuggets
were found, however, and also gold-bearing

' About 30,000?. was taken out during this year.
104

ALASKA TO BEKING STEAITS

qucartz, which resulted in the estabhshment of
the trading port now known as Forty-Mile
City.

It must not, therefore, for a moment be
imagined that Klondike is the only place hi
Alaska where gold is found. It is all over .he
country, from Sitka to the Arctic Ocean, and
from Mackenzie river to the Bering Sea. Up
to now, however, the Yukon basin has been the
centre of attraction, and, indeed, there is scarcely
a spot upon its upper waters where you can wash
a pan out without finding some deposit. The
Yukon river may (from a mining point of view)
be divided into three parts: (1) The upper
section (in British territory), containing the
Lewes, Stewart, and Klondike rivers, and Forty-
Mile City; (2) the middle section, from the
American boundary to the Tanana river, com-
prising Birch Creek, other tributaries of varying
importance, and Circle City ; and (3) the lower
section (also in American territory), down to
Bering Sea. The gold taken from the three
sections amounted in 1894 to about 75,000Z. In
1897, from January to April 1, the Klondike dis-

105

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THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

trict alone yielded 1,000,000/. sterling, and this
although under five hundred men were at work.
The Klondike gold-fields are in British
territory, fully sixty miles east of the
American boundary, so that, notwithstanding
the ravings of New York ' Jingoes,' there need
be little fear of international complications.
The first important discovery in the Klondike
region was made in 1896 by one George Cor-
mack, a miner, and an ' old-timer ' on the river.
Cormack formerly kept a store just above Five
Finger Rapids, where he traded with the Indians
and worked at developing a coal-vein in the
vicinity. Just prior to his great ' strike '
Cormack was living at the village of Klondike,
fishing and drying salmon for a living. He had
married a ' squaw,' and by this means had
attained a certain position among the natives,
who first led him to the scene of his success.
Cormack had only a very defective apparatus
to wash the gravel with. The gravel itself he
had to carry in a box on his back from thirty to a
hundred feet. Notwithstanding this, '240Z. was
obtained in eight days, and Cormack says that

io6

THE YIKON KIVEU AND ITS THIBUTARIES
(Reduced from a Jrup drawn liy Mr. SteAftirt Metiziea tt Fort Selkitk iu October 1893)

llausoii Citu U sihia'nl on the Riifr Yukuii^iuslbelow the iiaiiii- Klondikf, Siai/iiaij Hay is iit the head
o'' the Lynn Canal, ami the White I'ass starts from that point

m I

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ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

with proper appliances he coiilcl have ^'ot 1,000/.
Cormack's first rich strike was made on Bonanza
Creek, a tributary of the Klondike river, which
latter is a swift stream about 150 miles in length.'
About four hundred claims have been staked on
Bonanza, which is about twenty-five miles long,
and joins the Klondike a couple of miles from
its mouth. El Dorado, an affluent of Bon<'inza,
about seven miles long, has been magnificently
prospected, and the richness of these placers arc
truly marvellous. According to Mr. W. O'Gilvie,
the Dominion Surveyor, three pans'' on El
Dorado have yielded 41/., 42/., and 43/. respec-
tively, while many others ran up around 10/.
11. to 11. lO-s. was an average result. Other
tributaries of the Klondike — ' Hunker,' ' Gold
Bottom,' ' Bear,' and ' Last Chance ' creeks — are
all staked out, and will probably prove to be of
great value. They have already yielded 8/. to
10/. to the pan, and on Hunker Creek 51. was

' There are, as yet, no mines nctnallj' on the Klondike river,
which is too large and deep (o admit of placer mining.

- A ' pan ' is of sheet iron, abont eifjhtcon inches in circiimference
and four or five inches deep. It cossts j^H at Junean. In ordinary
placer mines ten to fifteen cents a pan is considered fair pay.

107

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THKOUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

panned in a few hours from the surface, taking
a handful here and there. About forty miles up
the Klondike ' Too Much Gold Creek ' has been
staked out. According to latest advices from
Dawson City, reports of fabulous wealth were
received from this remote creek, but it would be
prematura uo place too much credence in them
until next spring. A quartz lode, however,
showing free gold in paying quantities has been
located on one of the creeks. The quartz has
been tested over 201. to the ton. The lode
appears to run from three to eight feet in thick-
ness, and is about nineteen miles from the Yukon.
Another quartz mine known as the ' Four-Leaf
Clover,' on the west side of the Yukon, opposite
the mouth of the Klondike, also promises to
yield excellent results.'

Mr. O'Gilvie, the Dominion Surveyor, is
a personal friend of mine, and a thoroughly
practical man, not given to exaggeration. The

' Both f^olil ami silver bearing quartz have been discovered
near Sixty-Mile River, and a specimen oi" gold-bearing quartz
found near White Eiver assayed the enormous value of 3,000/. to
ihc ton. It ws taken from a seam nearly 2,000 feet above the
Yukon water-level.

1 08

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ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

following extract from one of his latest reports
may therefore be relied upon. Mr. O'Gilvie says :

' Since my last the prospects on Bonanza
Creek and tributaries are increasing in richness
and extent, until now it is certain milhons will
be taken out of the district in the next few
years. On some of the claims prospected the
pay dirt is of great extent and very rich. One
man told me yesterday that he washed out a
single pan of dirt on Bonanza Creek and found
^14.2.') in it. Five to seven dollars per pan is
the average on that claim, it is reported, with
five feet pay-dirt and the width yet undeter-
mined, but known to be thirty feet; even at
that figure the result at nine to ten pans to the
cubic foot, and 500 feet long, is ^4,000,000
at SI) per pan. One-fourth of this would be
enormous. Enough prospecting has been done
to show that there are at least fifteen miles of
this extraordinary richness, and the indications
are that we shall have three or four times that
extent, if not all equal to the above, at least
very rich.'

But this is not all. I have it (on the same

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THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

authority) that as much as ^560 was washed
out of one pan at Klondike, and that this
marvellous gold zone extends for quite 500
miles. ' One thing is certain,' concludes
O'Gilvie ; ' we have one of the richest mining
areas ever found, with a fair prospect that we
have not yet discovered its limits.'

It is satisfactory to note how completely Mr.
O'Gilvie's predictions regarding Alaska and the
North- West provinces have been realised. No
less than nine years ago he wrote :

* I think it may with confidence be asserted
that rich finds will yet be made of both coarse
gold and gold-bearing quartz. It is not likely,
in the nature of things, that such a vast extent
of country should have all its fine gold deposited
as sediment, brought from a distance in past
ages of the world's development. If this is not
the case, the matrix from which all gold on
these streams has come, must still exist, in
part at least, and will no doubt be discovered,
and thus enrich this otherwise gloomy and
desolate region.' ^

' A large creek called Indian Creek joins the Yukon midway

■MIMHHIiaHi

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

It is probably unnecessary to explain that,
with one or two exceptions, the gold in Alaska
is obtained by 'placer mining.' This consists
simply in making a shaft to bedrock » and then
tunnelling in various directions. The pay-dirt
is handed out by a small hand-windlass and
piled up until it is washed out. I am indebted
to my friend Mr. Joseph Ladue for the follow-
ing description of the various processes that
follow excavation :

* The miner lifts a little of the finer gravel or
sand in his pan. He then fills the latter with
water and gives it a few rapid whirls and shakes.
This tends to bring the gold to the bottom on
account of its greater specific gravity. The
pan is then shaken and held in such a way that
the sand and gravel are gradually washed out,
care being taken as the process nears completion
to avoid letting out the finer and heavier parts
that have settled to the bottom. Finally, all
that is left in the pan is gold and some black sand

between tlie Klondike and Stewart rivers, and all along this creek
good pay has been found. It would yield about five or six hundred
claims.

' The depth to bedrock varies from four to twenty feet.

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THEOUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

which ahnost invariably accompanies it. This
black sand is pulverised magnetic iron ore.
Should the gold thus found be fine, the contents
of the pan are thrown into a barrel containing
water and a pound or two of mercury. As soon
as the gold comes in contact with the mercury
it combines with it and forms an amalgam.
The process is continued until enough amal-
gam has been formed to pay for " roasting " or
" firing."

' It is then squeezed through a buckskin bag,
all the mercury that comes through the bag
being put into the barrel to serve again, and
what remains in the bag is placed in a retort, if
the miner has one, or, if not, on a shovel, and
heated until nearly all the mercury is vapourised.
The gold then remains in a lump with some
mercury still held in combination with it.

' This is called the " pan " or " hand " method,
and is never, on account of its laboriousness,
employed when it is possible to procure a
"rocker " or to make and work sluices.

' A " rocker " is a box about three feet long by
two wide, made in two parts, the top part being

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

shallow, with a heavy sheet-iron bottom, which
is punched full of quarter-inch holes. The other
part of the box is filled with an inclined shelf
about midway in its depth, which is six or eight
inches lower at its lower end than its upper.
Over this is placed a piece oi '^^ v woollen
blanket. The whole is then mouaced on two
rockers, resembhng those of an ordinary cradle ;
and when in use they are placed on two blocks, so
that the whole may b- readily rocked. After
the miner has selected his claim, he looks for
the best place to set up his " rocker," which must
be near a good supply of water. He then clears
away all the stones and coarse gravel, gathering
the finer gravel and sand in a heap near the
rocker. The shallow box on top is filled with
this, and with one hand the miner rocks it, while
with the other he ladles in water. The finer
matter with the gold falls through the holes on
to the blanket, which checks its progress, and
retains the fine particles of gold, while the use-
less matter passes over it to the bottom of the box,
which is sloping, so that what comes through is
washed downwards and finally out of the box.

113 I

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THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

Across the bottom of the latter are placed thin
slats, behind which some mercury is placed to
catch any particles of gold that may escape the
blanket. If the gold is nuggetty, the large
nuggets are fc^ nd in the upper box, their weight
retaining them until all the lighter stuff has
passed through. Smaller ones are held by a
deeper slat at the outward end of the bottom
of the box. The piece of blanket is occasionally
rinsed into a barrel, and, if the gold is fine,
mercury is placed at the bottom of the barrel,
as already mentioned.'

' Sluicing ' is the best method of placer mining
and is always employed where possible. It re-
quires a good supply of water, with sufficient
head or falls. The process is as follows : —

' Planks are procured and made into a box
of suitable depth and width. Slats are fixed
across the bottom of the box at intervals, or holes
bored in the bottom in such a way as to preclude
the escape of any particle of gold. Several of these
boxes are then set up with a considerable slope,
and are fitted into one another at the ends like a
stove-pipe. A stream of water is then thrown

114

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

into the upper end of the highest box, the dirt
being shovelled in and washed downwards at the
same time. The gold is detained by its weight,
and is held by the slats or in the holes afore-
mentioned. If it be fine, mercury is placed
behind the slats or in these holes to catch it. In
this way about three times as much dirt can be
washed as by the rocker, and consequently three
times as much gold may be secured in a given
time. Aiter the boxes are done with they are
burned, and the ashes washed for the gold held
in the wood.'

These methods seem simple enough, and no
doubt would be in more temperate regions ; but it
should be mentioned that the mines of the Yukon
are of a class by themselves, and it is necessary
to follow entirely new methods for getting the
gold. It was formerly considered impossible, on
account of climatic conditions, to work after the
month of September, but it is now conclusively
proved that much may be accompHshed during
the dark sunless winter. The working year is,
therefore, three times as long as it used to be,
and the time formerly devoted to drink and

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THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

debauchery is dow profitably employed. The
difficulty of winter mining is, of course, enor-
mously increased by the fact that the ground
is frozen. Every foot of it must be thawed,
either in sinking or drifting, by small fires. The
shallower mines are worked during the summer
in the open air, but when the gravel is more than
six feet deep, a shaft is sunk and dirt enough
removed to allow space to work in. Thus the
gold-seeker with a log hut close to the mouth of
his shaft, and provided with plenty of fuel, may
pass a whole winter (if food be forthcoming) in
comparative comfort. About a ton of dead ground
can be dumped daily, and a few hundred pounds
of pay-gravel. The latter is piled up until the
spring when the thaw comes. It is then ' panned '
or ' rocked ' without difficulty ; for here, unlike
Western Australia, there is no lack of water.
The winter in Alaska usually sets in very
suddenly. In 1896 the Yukon was blocked by
ice as early as September 28, and one of the river
steamers was unable to regain the port of St.
Michael, where these vessels are generally laid
up.

ii6

ALASKA TO BEliING STRAITS

North of the Klondike river at its junction
with the Yukon, and on the right bank of the
latter, stands the now world-famed city of Dawson.
The shanty which formed the nucleus of the
Klondike metropolis v.'as erected by Mr. Joseph
Ladue on September 1, 1896, and was destined
by that gentleman as a kind of annexe to his
store at Sixty-Mile. When the gold-strike
followed, and within a few weeks five hundred
i| dwellings sprang up as if by magic, no one was

more surprised than the storekeeper himself.
To be ' on the ground ' meant everything in this
case, for there is no other eligible site for miles.
Thus Mr. Ladue holds 178 acres and the Govern-
ment the remaining twenty-two, and as town
lots now fetch from 20?. to 2,000?. each, the
lucky backwoodsman is likely to ' remember
the 1st of September ' for some time to come !

Dawson City is named after Dr. Dawson,
who first established the boundary between
Alaska and the North-West Territory, this being
due north from Mount St. Elias to Point
Demarcation to the 141st meridian. In gene-
ral appearance Dawson much resembles most

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THIKJUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

Alaskan settlements, although it wears a more
prosperous air, and is perhaps better laid out,
than its poorer neighbours Forty-Mile and
Circle Cities. There are the usual ' Stores,'
' Hotels,' * Restaurants,' and ' Saloons ' to be
found in everj^ mining camp, from Coolgardie to
Cripple Creek. Here these establishments are
perhaps more squalid than usual, and would
pass unnoticed but for the flaming banner that
invariably floats over the low roof and proclaims,
in large white letters, the proprietor's business.
There is at present but one store of any impor-
tance at Dawson, that of the ' Alaska Commer-
cial Company,' who have, up till now, practically
controlled the entire trade of the country. On
this store all who go to Dawson without
provisions must mainly rely, and many will
probably do so before the year is out, with
disastrous results. Last June Dawson con-
tained a population of over 3,000, but this is
now largely increased. There seems to be an
impression in England that the diggings are
quite close to the settlement ; but this is
Incorrect. The richer creeks are fully fifteen

ii8

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

miles away and a hard day's journey from the
city.

Although the climate of Dawson is naturally
severe, a man may live, with proper precautions,
comfortably enough through a winter in Alaska.
I know at least a dozen ' old-timers ' who have
spent six consecutive years in the country ; for
the cold has been greatly exaggerated. Eighty
degrees (Fahr.) below zero is about the severest
yet experienced ; but this is very rare, and here,
unhke Canada, there is seldom the wind which
makes even 20° below zero unbearable. Mr.
Ladue has chopped wood in his shirt sleeves at
70° below zero and has experienced no great
discomfort, and I am acquainted with two men
(who, I believe, are now at Dawson) who
wintered on the Yukon in a thin canvas tent.^
Winter generally commences in October (but
often much earlier), and the Yukon is usually
clear of ice by the middle of May ; but this is
also uncertain. The snow-fall is not excessive,

* The greatest continuous cold yet registered in Central Alaska
was in February 1890, when the daily mean for five consecutive
days was 47° Fahr. below zero.

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THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

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three feet beiiifjf considered deep. The winter
da3's are very short, there bein^ but two hours
between the rising and setting of the sun; but
it is never pitch darlc, and the lovely Northern
Lights are common. In summer the tempera-
ture often roaches 80° (Fahr.), but the nights are
cool and pleasant. The days are then twenty
hours long, with twilight the remaniing four.
Mosquitos are as bad at Dawson as anywhere
on the river, with, perhaps, the exception of
Fort Yukon.

Little credence need be placed in the
sensational stories that have been circulated
regarding the insalubrity of Klondike. One
English newspaper reported over 2,000 deaths
in the district during the winter of 1896-1897,
when, as a matter of fact, there were not 1,200
people there to die ! That there mil be — nay,
has already been — terrible suffering at the
gold-fields during the winter of 1897-1898,
no one can doubt. I am informed, by the
highest authority in Washington, that the
last sack of flour was sold in Daivson City
on September 10 last. Since that date no

I20

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

supplies linv(^ reached the phice (owin^' to the
<,'roiindinf,' of two new steiiniers), and Dawson
is now unapproachable until next spring, when
even the most san^^uine Canadian and American
otiicials expect to i-eceive news of a nature too
terrible to contemplate. There is nothing to
be done lor the present, and we can only hope
for the best, and thank Providence that (accord-
ing to the latest advices) most of the women
and all the children have been moved down to
Fort St. Michael, where there is no lack of food
or lodging. The only women now in Dawson
City refused to leave, and belong to a class with
which mining camps are, unfortunately, only too
familiar.

Starvation and hardship, however, can
scarcely be classed as actual disease, which
latter is responsible for only two deaths at
Klondike up to August 1897. Both were from
natural causes. In the burial-ground at Forty-
Mile City (which has served for the whole
section for years past) I saw only thirty odd
graves, which shows that (from a health point of

121

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THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

view) Central Alaska is by no means an unde-
sirable residence.

On the other hand, no person with weak
lungs or subject to rheumatism should think of
wintering in the country. According to my
friend Surgeon Wills, of the Canadian Mounted
Police (who has a large and varied experience),
the commonest complaints are bronchitis and
pneumonia, arising from exposure ; debility and
dyspepsia, caused by improperly cooked food ;
and scurvy,' brought on by want of fresh meat
and vegetables, and unventilated, over-heated
dwellings. There are only too many of the latter ;
for the regulation miner's hut is only about four-
teen feet by twelve feet and six feet high, and is
occupied by three, and often four men. Fevers
and infectious diseases are practically unknown.
Only one case of typhoid occurred at Forty-Mile
City during the year 1896, and this was traced
to impure drinking water.- The following ex-

* Liine juice is always very dear and often unobtainable in the
Yukon settlements. It is therefore well to take at least a pound of
citric acid crystals and two or three ounces of oil of lemons.
Tliis makes an excellent anti-scorbutic drink.

'^ Since the above was written some dozen cases of typhoid

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ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

tract from Surgeon Wills's last report may prove
of interest to those contemplating a visit to
Klondike. The Doctor says :

' Men should be sober, strong end healthy.
They should be practical men, able to adapt
themselves quickly to their surroundings.
Special care should be taken to see that their
lungs are sound, that they are free from rheumat-
ism and rheumatic tendency, and that their joints,
especially knee-joints, are strong and have never
been weakened by injury, synovitis, or other
disease. It is also very important to consider
their temperaments. Men should be of cheerful,
hopeful dispositions, and willing workers. Those
of sullen morose natures, although they may be
good workers, are very apt, as soon as the
novelty of the country wears off, to become dis-
satisfied, pessimistic, and melancholy.'

For men of frugal mind, who eschew the
drink and gambling saloons, Dawson City
is by no means so expensive a residence as
might be imagined. T speak, of course, of last

fever have occurred at Dawson City, owing to defective sanitation
and overcrowded dwellings.

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summer, when provisions were obtainable, not of
the present time. The cost of Hving was then
from 11. to 30s. per day, although even then
luxuries were expensive. A ten-cent cigar cost
a dollar, which was also the price of a shave,
while a small drink of villainous whisky fetched
2s. Some of the saloons were taking 400/. a
day ; and I may here mention that Joe Cooper,
my old traveUing companion, had up to last
August realised over 5,000Z. by the sale of
refreshments — chiefly of an alcoholic nature.
Wages are proportionately high to the price of
necessaries. An ordinary labourer can easily
earn his 3Z. or 41. a day ; and many of those who
came in penniless worked steadily for a few
weeks until they could purchase a claim of their
own, and have since ' struck it rich.' I am
indebted to Mr. Ladue for the following scale of
prices in Dawson City, which, I repeat, applies
only to the summer of 1897 :

' A Store Price Lint '

Dawson City, July 1897.

£. s. d.

Flour (per 10 lbs.) 2 10

Moose ham (per lb.) 4

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ALASKA TO BEKING STRAITS

r s. (I.

Caribou meat (per lb.) 3

Beans (per lb.) 10

Kice (per lb.) 1 G

Sugar (per lb.) 16

Bacon (per lb.) 2

Butter (per lb.)

Eggs (per dozen) 8

Salmon (each)

Potatoes (per lb.) 16

Turnips (per lb.) 10

Tea (per lb.) 10

Coffee (per lb.) 3 6

Dried fruits (per lb.) 3

Canned meats (per can) . . . .040

Lemons (each) 10

Oranges (each) 2

Tobacco (per lb.) 7

Liquors (per drink) . . . . .020

Shovels 10

Picks 1 -)

Coal oil (gallon) 5

Overalls 7

Underwear (per suit) 2 10

Shoes 10

Rubber boots 3

Dawson City, like Juneau, is not wanting in
so-called amusements at night-time. There are
already two theatres there, to say nothing of
numerous dancing saloons, gambhng hells, and
dens of a worse description. The saloons are
of the true mining-camp type, with a bar at
one end, flanked by the inevitable gold-scales.

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Money is not used here, only gold-dust, which
fetches about 3^. 86'. an ounce. The space in
front of the bar is surrounded by benches and
used for dancing, but behind, in a dingy stuffy
den, the gambling ' lay-out ' is generally to be
found. ' Poker ' and ' Faro ' are the favourite
games, but ' Roulette ' is also very popular.
Two and three hundred pounds are often staked
on a single turn of the wheel, and the loss of
a couple of thousand pounds in a night is (or
was) of common occurrence. The ' Dance-hall
fairies,' as they are called, who frequent these
establishments, are women of the lowest class,
the very sweepings of the Pacific slope; but
here, unlike Circle City, they are kept well
within the bounds of decency by the Canadian
Mounted Police. An edict issued by Inspector
Constantino to discard ' bloomers ' and wear
skirts created great indignation amongst these
Alaskan ' houris,' and it was necessary in some
cases to carry out the order by forcible means.

Notwithstanding these unavoidable excep-
tions, Dawson City is probably the most orderly
and well-governed mining camp in the world.

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ALASKA TO BEKING STBAITS

There are many towns of boasted civilisation in
the Western States of America where life and
property are far less secure than at Klondike.
This is chieHy owing to the exertions of the
Canadian Mounted Pohce, whose arrival in camp
was resented by the raffish element, but heartily
welcomed by the more reputable portion of the
community. There is little chance now for evil-
doers. The rule against carrying fire-arms is
rigidly enforced, and to this law is probably due
the fact that, since the founding of Dawson, there
has only been one serious shooting affray ; and,
mdeed, there is really no necessity for a revolver
in or out of the city. A kind of freemasonry,
chiefly engendered by the precarious life in a
land where mankind and nature are ever at war,
exists amongst the miners of the Yukon. The
latter are as unhke the typical gold-digger,
bristhng with oaths and revolvers, as they can
well be. The Alaskan prospector is, like his placer
mines, of a class by himself ; reckless of danger
possibly, inured to privation without a doubt, but
outwardly as quiet, orderly, and well-behaved as
a Sunday School teacher. Murder and theft are

127

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practically unknown in the Yukon Valley.
Thousands of pounds' worth of gold dust may be
lying about, but no one ever dreams of locking a
cabin door. When a thief is caught he is given
twenty-four hours to leave the settlement, failing
which he is hanged to the nearest tree ; but, for
obvious reasons, there are not many thieves, for
miner's law, on the Yukon, is seldom tempered
with mercy. One rarely hears of the shooting
scrapes that have made famous California and
the Wild West, from the days of '49 to Cripple
Creek. In Alaska, a man may go on the
spree, indulge in too much ' tanglefoot,' ^ and
shoot a comrade by accident, but ' guns ' are
rarely used in earnest except for game. There
is a camaraderie among the Y ukoners, a kind of
brotherly affection, which was well exemplified
by an old miner I met this year at Montreal.
We were discussing the chances of those who
had succeeded in crossing the Chilkoot and
White Passes this summer, and I observed that,
at any rate, a third of the prospectors were sup-
plied with food enough to ward off starvation.

' Eye whisky.
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ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

' What is the good of that ? ' growled my old
friend (he hailed from Forty-Mile City) ; ' they
will have to share what they have got with the
others ! '

It nay be well, before concluding this chapter,
to give a few instances of lucky ' strikes ' made in
Klondike, for ivhich I can vouch. English people
have come to regard news transmitted from
New York as exaggerated, and not unreasonably
so ; for the unreliable trash, published by most
American newspapers is justly proverbial, and
only to be equalled by the aggressive impertinence
of the so-called journalists who compile it, and
who render life a burthen to the unhappy stranger
in the United States. The following instances,
however, have been verified for me by competent
authorities at Ottawa, and I do not, therefore,
hesitate to place them, with absolute confidence,
before the reader.

It is a curious fact, although one I believe
not peculiar to Klondike, that during the past
year more rich strikes have been made by
* tender-feet ' — or new-comers in the country —
than by the more experienced miners. Indeed,

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THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

in many cases, the latter have been guided by the
former to some of the best paying claims. Many
of the older prospectors (men who had been in
the country for several years) were of opinion that
Bonanza Creek was too wide and deep to be of
much account, but their theories have been
entirely upset by the results. * You can't tell any-
thing about gold,' said one grizzled old veteran,
after one of the marvellous ' clean-ups ' from this
creek had electrified the world ; * you're just as
likely to find it where it ain't as where it are ! '

It is no exaggeration to say that everyone
who has staked out a claim on either Bonanza
or El-Dorado this year has turned out over
2,000/., the majority of course much more.
Thus far Mr. Clarence Berry is the Barnato of
the Klondike. Berry was earning a modest
livelihood as a fruit-raiser in California. Three
years ago wonderful stories of the riches of
Alaska reached Berry's ears — riches only to be
obtained by those brave enough to risk a
terrible death from cold and starvation. Berry
had nothing to lose and everything to gain.
His capital was only 8Z., but he managed to

130

ALASKA TO BEIUNG STKAITS

*
A

borrow another 12/. from a man who was afraid
to go with him, but who advanced the money at
a fabulous rate of interest. Berry started with
forty companions, but the timid turned back,
and by the time the party reached Lake Bennett
they had dwindled down to three. When Berry
reached Forty-Mile City he was alone, the
others having died on the way.

While at Forty-Mile Berry heard reports of
the marvellous gold deposits that have since
been brought to light. But there was a girl, far
away in California, who had promised to be his
wife within a certain time. A letter was there-
fore written telling his ' fiancee ' of the bound-
less possibilities of Alaska, and without a
moment's hesitation, but much against the wish
of her parents. Miss Ethel Bush travelled by
sea and up the Yukon river to Forty-Mile City,
where the pair were married.

Berry and his wife were among the first to
reach Klondike. They took 26,000Z. from only
one of his claims. The first prospect gave 8s., then
126'., to the pan ; and this rose suddenly to 51.
and 101. the pan. One day Mr. and Mrs. Berry

131

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THKOUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

took no less than 120/. from a single jpan of earth.
Mrs. Berry herself lifted out 10,000/. from her
husband's claim in her spare moments. Thi^i
was her amusement during perhaps the strangest
honeymoon that has ever been recorded. Mr.
Berry has many claims on the Klondike, and it
is confidently anticipated by competent judges
that he will one day be one of the richest men
in the world.'

Alexander MacDonald, on Claim^ No. 30,
El-Dorado, started drifting with four other
men. The five together took out 19,000/. in
twenty-eight days. The ground dug up measured
but forty square feet.

William Leggatt, on Claim No. 13, El-Dorado,
together with two other men, purchased a claim
for 9,000/. They could not pay the whole
amount in cash, but made a deposit of 400/. and

' I learn from Mr. Ladue that Mrs. Lippy (whose husband has
a claim valued at 200,000Z.) and Mrs. Berry picked out of a dump
1,200/. each, in a few days after their arrival. Tliey found the
metal by poking around in the dirt with sticks. I cite this
instance to show how much valuable material was discarded in the
wild rush for Bonanzas.

^ Creek aiid river claims are .'500 feet long and extend in width
from base to base of the hill or bench on each side, but a discoverer
is entitled to 150 additional feet.

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ALASKA TO BEKING STRAITS

agreed to pay the balance of 8,600/. before
July 1, 1897. This was agreed to. They sank a
shaft, and at once took out at the rate of 200/.
per day. By May 15, 1897, they had netted
12,400/., and the space of the claim worked was
only twenty-four square feet.

A young man (a friend of Mr. Ladue's), who
went to the Klondike during the summer of 1897,
writes that for seven consecutive days he took
360/. a day from his claim.

Of other authentic cases, I may mention that
of a San Francisco man and his wife who have
this year taken out 27,000/. and have not worked
half their single claim, and that of a stoker on
board one of the river steamers, who when I met
him on the Yukon was earning 10/. a month.
He is now worth 30,000/.

T. S. Lippy, who, when I knew him at Forty-
Mile in 1896, was living a hand-to-mouth exis-
tence as a day labourer, brought down 1,300/. in
the ' Portland,' and has claims valued at 200,000/.
as yet untouched. F. G. Bowker, who came
with him, brought 18,000/., while his claims also
unworked are said to be worth 100,000/. Over

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TITROUGH THE (40TiD-FTELT)S OF

a Hcore of others cleaned up over 10,000/. between
September 1896 and July 1897.

T could cite many more instances of this
kind, but enough has been shown to prove that
(judging from the fact that the soil at Klondike
has oiily been, so to speak, scratched) Dawson
City is one day destined to rival, if not surpass,
Coolgardie and Johannesburg in the history of
mining operations.

I have found it quite impossible to reply to
the numberless letters that have reached me
during the past few months, from unknown
correspondents p^'^'ing for advice as to the best
means of reaching Klondike. I will therefore
conclude this chapter with a few remarks upon
the subject. There is no use disguising the fact
that, to quote an ' old-timer's ' expression,
' Alaska is no soft snap.' Unless a man is
prepared to face daily, almost hourly, hardships
and difficulties, he had far better remain at
home. There is probably no country in the
world so replete with discomforts and annoy-
ances of every kind, and I would strongly
urge those projecting a visit to the gold-fields

134

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ALASKA TO BILKING STKAITS

to take into serious consideration the immense
distances to bo traversed — distances that must
be covered by dint of sheer hard labour. In
time, travelHng facihties will no doubt be greatly
increased, but le can scarcely hope to find
much improvement next spring when the great
rush will take place. A definite route into
the country has not even yet been fixed
upon.

The most direct route from England is from
Liverpool to New York or Montreal, thence by
Canadian Pacific Railway to Victoria, B.C.,
whence small steamers run frequently to Juneau
and Skagway. For those who intend to brave
the passes the middle or end of February will
be the best time to start from this country.
Those going by sea via St. Michael need not
think of leaving until April. Bering Sea is
closed by ice and St. Michael unapproachable
by water until the middle of June (and some-
times later), and one can scarcely concp ';^e how
the public can be gulled into securing passages
by steamers advertised to leave the Pacific
ports for Klondike in March, when navigation

135

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THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

beyond the Aleutian Islands only opens (at the
earliest) about the middle of May.

As regards outfit, do not take anything that
is not absolutely necessary. Remember, also,
that everything you require can be procured at
Juneau from men who do nothing but fit out
prospectors for the Yukon, and therefore
thoroughly understand the business. A couple
of large oilskin bags, such as sailors use, will be
found useful ; two or three thick tweed suits,
plenty of flannel underwear, six pairs of wading
stockings, and a good strong hunting knife had
better be got in London ; also a couple of
pairs of hair {snoiu) goggles, to be obtained
from Silver & Co., Cornhill, E.G. The latter
are light and unbreakable, and infinitely more
comfortable than glass or wire.

Fire-arms are absolutely useless for all the
game you will see on the Yukon, and will only
load you up unnecessarily. Recollect that on
this journey every pound is of importance. It is
forbidden to carry a revolver at Klondike, nor is
one needed at any of the mining settlements in
Alaska.

136

ALASKA TO BEEING STKAITS

No one should think of travelling alo..e.
Three is the best number, for it just fits a
comfortably sized boat, and there is always a
spare man in case of accident or sickness.
Four is not too many, but this number is quite
sufficient for one party.

The best route into Alaska is a very vexed
question. There is so much difference of
opinion, that, until next spring, it would be
premature to offer any advice on the subject.
The White Pass is now said to be worse than
the dreaded Chilcoot, and no man should attempt
the passage of the latter unless he be endowed
with steady nerves and inured to the severest
fatigue and privations. It would, perhaps, be
wise for those who have led sedentary lives,
or are not blessed with the strongest constitu-
tions, to make up their minds to lose a few
weeks' time and travel round to Klondike by
sea and river — via St. Michael's. Two new
routes, nowever, one over the Daulton trail, and
the other via the Stikine river and Glenora
to Teslin Lake, have been favourably reported
on by Canadian surveyors, and one of these

^37

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THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

may possibly be opened up by the late spring
of 1898.

In conclusion, no man should dream of
venturing into Alaska who cannot land on the
scene of operations with at least a clear lOOZ.,
after paying his passage money, outfit, and all
incidental expenses. In other words, a capital
of at least 3001. is needed by everyone who
intends to try his luck at the New Eldorado,
and, in the words of Joe Ladue, ' Double that
sum is better still, if he can raise it ! '

ll^l

1 ,»

I m

II T I

I' I

138

;;JL._..

ALASKA TO SEEING STEAITS

CHAPTER VII

FOKTY-MILE CITY— CHICLE ClTY—KOSEiiEFyKI— FOliT

ST. MICHAEL

Any pleasant visions of civilised comforts which
its imposing title had inspired were rudely dis-
pelled on arrival at Forty-Mile City. The latter
is situated about forty miles below Dawson, on
the left bank on the Yukon, and consists (hke
most Alaskan ' cities ') of a collection of eighty
or ninety dismal-looking log huts on a mud-
bank. The shanties are scattered about any-
how, with no attempt at regularity, the marshy
intervening spaces being littered with wood
shavings, empty tins, and other rubbish, while
numerous tree- stumps show the recent origin of
this northern mining camp, which is, however,
the parent settlement of the interior, having
been founded in 1887. Huge placards with the

139

I •{■

I': I

I. !

i I

I /

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

words * Hotel,' ' Saloon,' and even ' Opera
House ' (the latter a ' dive ' of the lowest
description) adorn some of the larger dwellings,
where, though bread is often lacking, whisky is
never scarce.

Forty-Mile City is in British territory. It is
populated (or was, at the time of my visit) by
a few hundred gold-miners, a detachment of the
Canadian Mounted Police (who, I need hardly
say, are ;/?anounted here), the 'employes ' of the
Alaska Connnercial Company, a score of saloon
keepers, and a few ladies of doubtful reputation,
who make things pretty lively during the dark
sunless winter. The gold-seekers then return
with their clean-up of the precious metal, which
is only too often squandered in drink and
debauchery until empty pockets herald the
return of spring. Since ' winter mining ' has
come into fashion, however, the profits of
the gambling saloons and similar establish-
ments have shown a marked decrease, and the
' Forty-Miler ' is more provident than formerly.
But even men of frugal mind find it hard to
make both ends meet here, where provisions

140

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i !^

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ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

cost half their weight in silver, and often fetch
more than ten times their value in gold.

The Alaska Commercial Company has an

agency here, a two-storied wooden building,

where we were welcomed by the Agent, and

made as comfortable as circumstances and the

scarcity of provisions would permit. For the

first up-river steamer had not yet made her

appearance, and the little food remaining from

the winter's store was necessarily, even at our

host's hospitable board, jealously doled out.

Thanks to Father Barnum, the Catholic mission,

a tiny log house, about thirty-five feet by

eighteen feet, offered us sleeping accommodation,

and, the priest in charge being absent on a tour

of inspection, there was plenty of space to stretch

our weary limbs and revel in the temporary

absence of mosquitos, which, although they

swarm in the adjacent woods, seldom trouble

the settlement to any great extent.

Forty-Mile is a city of roof-gardens ; not of
the fashionable kind usually associated with
female beauty, electric light, and Hungarian
bands ; but gardens of a more practical, if less

141

'. >.

■ I

>• 1,

THKOUGH THE GULD-FIELDb OF

ornamental, nature. The Yukon roof-garden
was invented to keep out the cold, and effectually
does so. Moss is generally used for caulking
the sides of a Forty-]\Iile residence, and a thin
layer of it laid all over the Hat roof. About a
foot of loose dirt is placed over this, which, when
the dwelling is more than a year old, is covered
with a rank growth of weeds.

A facetious American newspaper man that
I met at Forty-Mile prophesied that, in the
prosperous days to come, the mowing of the roof
will be one of a householder's regular duties.

Forty-Mile was long tlit^ chief town of
the Upper Yukon in the palmy days of the
' Hudson Bay Company,' when furs rather
than gold attracted the white man to these
desolate regions. In 1888 the number of diggers
on Forty-Mile Creek (a river about two hundred
miles long that enters the Y^'ukon just below
the town) and its tributaries became sufficiently
great to induce the ' Alaska Commercial Com-
pany ' to establish a trading post. In the
summer of 1892 the ' North American Trading
Company ' followe«J suit and founded a settle-

142

:d.

the

AUnlC sCM.MKH, NKAK lOUIV-MII.K ( IIV

11 i

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i^f41

ALASKA TO 13EKING STKAITS

ment about three-quarters of a mile down
stream, which was named after Mr. John
Cudahy, the well-known Chicago merchant, and
one of the directors of the compari}'. A fort was
erected here in 1805, and is occupied by twenty-
five men of the Canadian Mounted Police, under
the command of a captain ' (who acts as governor
of the district), two subordinate officers and a
surgeon. The fort is of wood, and surrounded
by a stockade surmounted by the Union Jack,
which floats at Fort Cudahy, over the most
northerly garrison of the British Empire.

Time passed drearily enough at Forty-Mile,
for there was nothing to do during the long
sunny days but to wander wearily up and down
the bank watching in vain for the steamer, and
varying the proceedings with occasional shots
with a revolver at bottles thrown into the stream.
Some of the riverside huts were literally torn
up and thrown on their sides by ice, which,
when it breaks up in May is swept down the
Yukon at a terrible pace. At this season the

' This officer's salary of 24Z. per month, to mclude everything,
Beams a scarcely adequate one, considering his onerous duties, and
the ruinous cost of provisions.

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shores are generally flooded to a depth of several
feet, and the huge blocks, some of them many
feet high, come tearing down with an irresistible
force that detaches whole acres of forest, and
carries death and destruction into many a mining
settlement. The sight is described as one of
wild and terrible grandeur, but few who have
witnessed it at close quarters ever care to
repeat the experiment. All nationalities are
represented at Forty-Mile — Americans, French,
Germans, Russians, and Swedes — but I saw only
one Englishman, the brother of a well-known
barrister, who had given up mining for a while
and taken to photography with much success.^
Most of the miners were away on their claims,
but it was amusing at times to enter a saloon
and listen to the babel of tongues. As news
from the outer world was quite eight months
old, the conversation was generally restricted to
two subjects : the scarcity of provisions and the
abundance of gold. Heated arguments were
frequently evoked by the latter, but the former

' The illustration depicting ' An Arctic Summer ' is from a
photograph taken near Forty-Mile by this gentleman,

144

sveral
many
stible
i, and
lining
)ne of
I have
ire to
3S are
^rench,
,w only
•known
a while
iccess.^
claims,
saloon
s news
months
cted to
and the
s were
former

ia from a

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ALASKA TO BEEING STRAITS

(for obvious reasons) created little discussion.
Although, towards the small hours, men were
frequently the worse for liquor, in these
establishments I never once witnessed a brawl
of any description, and during my whole journey
down the Yukon never saw a blow struck in
anger.

Forty-Mile ' Creek ' is about one hundred and
fifty yards wide at its mouth, and its current
is strong with many small rapids. One of the
latter, about eight miles from the Yukon, has
drowned many miners. The distance from
shore is trifling, and the fall not very great ; but
there are many sunken rocks, and most of the
fataHties occurred on account of the icy cold
water, which renders a man helpless in -a very
few seconds. The diggings are distant fifty to one
hundred miles up the valley, and the method of
reaching them is by ' tracking ' or ' poling,' or
by both methods together. In ' tracking ' the
boat is towed by one man, while another, walk-
ing near the beach, keeps the boat well out
from shore with a long pole ; or a man may
stand in the boat and propel it by pushing

145 L

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THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

against the bottom. Poling is generally em-
ployed in travelling up-stream, and so adept do
the men become that they sometimes cover
fifteen or twenty miles a day against a swift
current.

Forty-Mile and its tributaries have been
mined with fair success for the past ten years ;
but, although there are still many valuable claims
to be had for the asking, the recent rush to
Klondike has almost depopulated the district.
The latter, however, cannot fail to become one
of the utmost importance, for it contains large
quantities of gold-bearing quartz. The follow-
ing extract from a recent report of the Dominion
Surveyor, Mr. W. O'Gilvie (who was residing
at Forty-Mile City during my visit, and from
whom I obtained much useful information)
bears witness to this fact : —

' Gold-bearing quartz has been found in
Cone Hill, which stands midway in the valley
of the Forty-Mile river, a couple of miles above
its junction with the Yukon. The quantity in
sight rivals that of the Treadwell mine on the
coast, and the quality is better, so much so that

146

ALASKA TO BEEING STEAITS

it is thought it will pay well to work it even
under the conditions existing here. Indications
in sight point to the conclusion that the whole
hill is composed of this metalliferous rock.'

A later report says : —

'Assays of the Cone Hill quartz are very
satisfactory, and the quantity good for genera-
tions of gold ; were it on the coast the Treadwell
mine would be diminutive beside it. If it starts
and proves successful, there are scores of other
places that may yield as well. An expert here
who prospects for the North American Trading
and Transportation Company found a ledge last
spring on the Chandindu river of Schwatka^
(known as Twelve-Mile Creek here), and located
two full claims on it. He told me the assay he
made of many specimens of it was much more
satisfactory than that of Cone Hill, and this ledge,
he claims, is where a commencement should be
made in quartz-milling in this country. There
would be no fear of the result.'

' This stream flows into the Yukon (about thirty miles above
Forty-Mile) from the westward. Good specimens of coal in fairly
large quantities have been found on Twelve- Mile Creek.

147 h 2

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

It » I:

ti'i

We had heard, while at Juneau, of a
mountain of gold near Forty-Mile City, and, not
unnaturally, dismissed the story as a pure
fabrication. The existence of Cone Hill, how-
ever, proves that the tale was not altogether
without foundation.'

Five, six days passed away without signs of
the steamer, which was now nearly three weeks
overdue. Grave doubts as to her safety were
expressed by the Alaska Company's Agent, and
the jests that had been made on our arrival
as to the probability of sacrificing the weaker
members of the community for food began to
fall rather flat. For provisions were getting
dangerously scarce, and matters were growing
really serious, when on the morning of the seventh
day a thin column of grey smoke appeared above
the fir-fringed horizon, and a few hours later the
' Alice ' had reached her destination. No sooner

' In 1886 few of the men in Forty-Mile Creek were content
with (ground yielding less than 3?. per diem, and several had
taken out nearly '20Z. a day for a short time. With the few men
at work, and their exceedingly limited facilities, this little stream, in
1887, gave up about 80,000/. in gold. At this time the total number
of miners in the entire territory of the Upper Yukon was less
than two hundred and lil'ty, and none of them wintered there.

148

of a
ad, not
I pure
I, how-
ogether

dgns of
3 weeks
ty were
ent, and
arrival
weaker
)egan to
getting
growing
seventh
d above
ater the
sooner

[crc content

keveral had

pie few men

stream, in

atal number

pn was less

there.

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;

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

was the ungainly vessel moored to the steep
muddy bank than her decks were thronged with
an eager crowd of both sexes, almost as anxious
to obtain news from the outside world as the
more substantial necessaries of life. The
steamer had been delayed by heavy ice on the
Lower Yukon — a most unusual occurrence so
late in the year. The river is generally quite
clear for navigation by the end of June, but in
Alaska one can never depend on the regularity
of the seasons.

The river steamers of Alaska are not luxuri-
ous. Their accommodation would savour of
actual hardship to one fresh from civilisation ;
but the coarse lodging and coarser fare on
board the 'Alice 'were very acceptable after a
month in the open, passed under circumstances
compared to which the roughest work in other
wild lands is mere child's play. Nevertheless I
would gladly, after the first two or three days,
have exchanged my stuffy malodorous quarters
on board the ' Alice ' for a six-foot space under
the flimsy canvas tent we had discarded at
Forty- Mile City. A crowd was, of course,

149

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

unavoidable under the circumstances ; but much
of the discomfort and all the dirt might have
been avoided with little trouble and less ex-
pense. The so-called ' state-rooms,' comfortless
dens, swarmed with vermin, while it was neces-
sary at meal-times to fight for a place at a
greasy deal table strewn with the remnants
of past meals, from which a famishing dog
would have turned in disgust. I am grateful
to the Alaska Commercial Company for many
favours. Their hospitality to the stranger in that
lone northern land is justly proverbial, and my
journey from the Pacific Ocean to Bering Sea
was not only successfully but rapidly accom-
plished under their kindly auspices. I cannot,
however, refrain from pointing out an evil in their
otherwise admirable administration, which, I feel
sure, were it known at the head office in San
Francisco, would be quickly remedied.

The ' Alice ' was, like all Yukon steamers, a
broad flat-bottomed stern-wheeler of very light
draught, for near Fort Yukon and towards the
Delta there is frequently only three to four feet

150

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

much
have
is ex-
)rtles8
neces-
I at a
mants
g dog
rateful

many
in that
bnd my
ng Sea
accom-
cannot,
in their
|h, I feel

in San

imers, a
^ry Ught
irds the
lour feet

of water, even in the deepest channels. A ' first-
class ' fare from Forty-Mile to St. Michael's
costs 20/., and as freight is 30/. a ton, the Alaska
Commercial Company, who own four out of the
five boats on the river, have no cause to com-
plain. The season no doubt is short, and each
vessel can only make, under the most favourable
circumstances, three round trips throughout the
year ; but they are generally so crammed with
passengers and cargo that the Company's
receipts must be enormous.

About fifteen miles below Forty- Mile we pass
a large mass of rock on the left bank. Schwatka
called this ' Roquette Rock,' but it is known to
miners and others as the ' Old Woman,' a very
similar mass on the west bank being known as the
' Old Man.' I am indebted to Mr. W. O'Gilvie
for particulars of the following Indian legend
from which these curious landmarks derive their
names : —

* In remote ages there lived a powerful
" Shaman," this being the local name for what
is known as " Medicine man " among the Indians

151

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

W !'i

'! •

farther south and east.* The Shaman holds a
position and exercises an influence among the
people he lives with so?^ewhat akin to the wise
men or magi of olden times in the East. In
this powerful being's locality there lived a poor
man who had the great misfortune to have as
wife an inveterate scold. He bore the infliction
for a long time without murmuring, in hopes
that she would relent, but time seemed only
to increase the affliction. At length, growing
weary of the unceasing torment, he complained
to the Shaman, who comforted him, and sent him
home with the assurance that all would soon be
well.

' Shortly after this he went out to hunt, and
remained away for many days endeavouring to
get some provisions for home use, but without
avail. He therefore returned, weary and hungry,
only to be met by his wife with a more than
usually violent outburst of scolding. This so
provoked him that he gathered all his strength
and energy, and gave her a kick that sent her

' Medicine men are also known as 'Shamans' throughout
Northern and North-Eastern Hiberia.

lolds a
Qg the
le wise
st. In
a poor
lave as
fliction
hopes
id only
[rowing
plained
3nt him
30on be

nt, and
iring to
A^ithout
tiungry,
re than
This so
trength
ient her

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ALASKA TO BEEING STEAITS

clean across the river. On landing she was
converted into the mass of rock which remains
to this day a memorial of her viciousness and
a warning to all future scolds. The metamor-
phosis was effected by the Shaman ; but how the
necessary force was acquired to send her across
the river (here about half a mile wide), or
whether the kick was administered partly by the
Shaman and partly by the husband, history does
not relate.'

No river of any size joins the Yukon
between Forty- Mile City and the boundary line
that separates the British and American pos-
sessions. There is only one stream, Coal
Creek, about five miles below Fort Cudahy,
which enters from the east, and upon which
extensive coal seams have been found. The
international complications and discussions that
have attended the partition of the Alaska
boundary are now a matter of history. Anent
this subject Mr. O'Gilvie (the British represen-
tative on the Boundary Commission) was good
enough to furnish me with a few facts, which

i I)

153

THEOUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

i' lii' !

from such an undeniable authority can scarcely
fail to interest the reader.

It would appear, according to the Dominion
Surveyor, that the partition has been attended
with the greatest difficulty. That portion of the
boundary running across the noj th-western part
of the North American continent, from the
Pacific to the Arctic Ocean, is simply a geo-
graphical line defined in the Anglo-Eussian
treaty of 1825 as the 141st meridian of longitude
west of Greenwich. This would, therefore, seem
to be clearly defined; but it has been found
necessary to fix more accurately this portion of
the international boundary by means of astrono-
mical observations, which are precluded, by the
high altitude, for more than six months in the
year. During the spring summer, and autumn
the continuous twilight (j;t midsummer almost
daylight) renders the necessary number of stars
requisite for observation invisible. Were tele-
graphic communication established with the south
and east, this portion of the meridian could be laid
down with a probable error of, say, eight or ten
feet ; but with the only means at present available

154

y if •

ALASKA TO BEEING STEAITS

1 1

the result of a season's observations by two of
the most experienced observers may differ many
hundred yards. ^ Unfavourable meteorological
conditions are also a serious obstacle to the
work in hand.

The first attempt at defining the Alaskan
boundary was made by Lieutenant Schwatka, of
the United States army, who, in 1883, made a
rough and necessarily crude survey of the Lewes
and Pelly -Yukon rivers from their head to Fort
Yukon, situated at the mouth of the Porcupine
river, a distance of about live hundred miles.
Lieutenant Schwatka determined the position of
the boundary from this survey, and located it at
the mouth of what is now known as Mission
Creek, naming a high rock bluff at this point
Boundary Butte. But in consequence of numer-
ous representations to the Canadian Government,
and British demands for claims in tho gold-fields
of the Yukon Basin, it was determined to send
in a joint Geographical and Geological Survey
to examine thoroughly that portion of the

' There can be no doubt as to the position of the Klondike
gold-fields, which are 55 miles at least from the American frontier.

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

( «

I i

^i /

Yukon region lying in British territory. For
this purpose Dr. G. M. Dawson, Director of the
Geological Survey of Canada, was deputed to
make the Geological, and Mr. William O'Gilvie
the Geographical Survey. Dr. Dawson's opera-
tions were confined to the Pelly and Lewes
rivers, but Mr. O'Gilvie carefully examined the
entire country from Pyramid Island and Chilkat
Inlet (at the head of Lynn Canal) to the head
of Dyea Inlet, thence over the Chilkoot Pass, and
down the lakes and rapids of the Lewes and
Yukon rivers, to the vicinity of the 141st
meridian. Mr. O'Gilvie arrived here on
September 14, 1887. Winter quarters were
erected and an astronomical observatory built.
The result of Mr. O'Gilvie's astronomical
observations was recorded some fifteen miles
higher up the Yukon river, and nine miles farther
east, than Lieutenant Schwatka's determination,
which latter, however, is not, from the nature of
the survey, entitled to much consideration.

In 1889 the United States Government
decided to verify Mr. O'Gilvie's determinations,
and despatched two members of the Coast

i5<^

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

dies

bion,

pent

Ions,

oast

Survey Staff, Messrs. Mai^rath and Turner, to
Alaska to determine by astronomical observa-
tions the position of the 141st meridian on the
Yukon and Porcupine rivers. The result of
these observations was at first in favour of
Canada as against Mr. O'Gilvie's determination,
and located the boundary considerably farther
west than the latter gentleman had done.
Lately, however, a revision of Mr. Magrath's
computations locates the disputed line at a point
far east of Mr. O'Gilvie, which circumstance has
largely contributed to the present difficulty.
The matter still remains in abeyance, chiefly
owing to the dilatoriness of the United
States Government, which does not appear at
all anxious to come to a settlement on this vexed
question.

On the dull drizzly morning of July 16
we reach Circle City (in American territory),
which, wrapped in a mantle of grey mist, presents
a truly dismal and depressing appearance. The
' Alice ' is made fast to a mudbank, opposite the
store of one Jack McQuesten, well known as the
' Father of the Yukon.' A corrugated iron shed

157

THROUGH THE GOLD FIELDS OF

close to the landing-place is the property of this
gentleman, and is looked upon with much
curiosity, foi it is the only one on the river.

Circle City derives its name from its
proximity to the Arctic Circle, and was founded
in 1894, shortly after gold had been discovered
by some half-breed Indians in its vicinity. The
' lind ' attracted the usual rush of white men,
and in 1896 the settlement contained over 1,200
inhabitants. About four hundred log buildings
line the wide straggling thoroughfares. The pre-
vailing style of architecture resembles that of
Forty-Mile City, but the streets are laid out
with greater regularity, and there are fewer
tree-stumps and morasses than in the English
settlement up-river.

Circle City is now practically deserted,
although, at the time of our visit, it was a busy
thriving place ; for many of the creeks around are
rich, and would under other circumstances never
have been abandoned. But ' Klondicitis ' (as the
Alaskan gold fever has been facetiously named)
raged so violently at Circle City some months
ago that men who were comfortably turning out

158

led)

iths

out

■J

1 *

1: ' lit

ALASKA TO BEBING STRAITS

their 200Z. and 300/. a month deserted their
claims without a moment's hesitation, and have
probably, ere now, regretted their rashness.
The most important diggings near here are
situated on Birch Creek; but Mastodon and
Eagle Creeks have also turned out a large
amount of gold. Several gold claims have also
been partly worked on Boulder, Deadwood, and
Harrison Creeks. These are now all lying idle,
but will probably be in full swing again before
the end of 1898.

A curious fact in connection with the un-
usual mining conditions at Klondike was brought
to my notice while at Circle City. An old
miner there (who had been in Alaska eight
or ten years) told a friend of mine that hitherto
experienced miners about Circle City had sunk
their shafts, and followed what was supposed to
be an infallible rule in placer mining— viz. that
when they struck the clay they abandoned their
claims, considering them to be valueless. Since
then, he added, ignorant ' tender-feet ' had gone
into the Klondike, and, not knowing when to
stop digging, dug right through the clay, and

^59

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' i ;

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

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Mi'i

ifi;

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4 \f,_

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had thus come upon the richest strikes. The
old fellow and his mates had thereupon returned
to their old digp^ings near Circle City, to work
through the clay, in the hopes of finding the
same conditions as at Klondike.'

Circle City has been called by enthusiastic
' Yukoners ' the ' Paris of Alaska,' but I failed to
trace the slightest resemblance to the beautiful
French city as I wandered disconsolately about
on the morning of our airival, splashing about
in the rain among the motley collection of
sodden dwellings and dripping roofs. There
was certainly more gaiety, or life, of a tawdry,
disreputable description than at Forty-Mile, for
every tenth house was either a gambling or
drinking saloon, or a den of an even worse de-
scription. There are (or were) two theatres, and
a (so-called) Music Hall. One of the theatrical

' This circumstance is explained l»y the fact that at Klondike
there has been found what is called a false bedrock. It would
appear that, in the glacial action, the gold was deposited on true
bedrock, and subsequently, by either volcanic action or extraordinary
glacial action, y hat appeared to be another bedrock was deposited
on top of this gold deposit, and parties who have gone through this
false bedrock have found rich pay-streaks between it and true
bedrock (O'Gilvie's Ken.irt. 1897.)

I 60

ALASKA TO BERING STIUITS

companies which visited the phice last winter
was composed of six youn^' women und five men,
of whom all the women had managed to stru<,'gle
over the Chilkoot Pass, and down the lakes and
rapids to their destination. But, although legiti-
mate drama of the hlood-curdling type found
many arlmirers, the dancing-saloons were in-
finitely more popular. A ball is given nightly at
one or other of these establishments, and half a
dozen if a fortunate miner returns with plenty
of *dust.' I attended one of these entertain-
ments in a long low apartment, festooned with
American, Gerrnan, and Swedish flags (the
Union Jack was conspicuous by its absence),
with a drinking-bar at one end. The orchestra
consisted of a violin and guitar — almost
drowned by a noisy crowd at the bar, where a
wrangle took place, on an average, every five
minutes. It was past midnight, but the Arctic
twilight still revealed a number of mud-stained
men and painted women, slowly circling round
to the strains of the ' Donau-Wellen,' execrably
played ; $1 is charged by the saloon-keeper for
the privilege of one dance with a lady, who

i6i M

;»'■'

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

receives twenty-five cents as her share in the
transaction. The guests numbered about sixty,
and quite a third that number of dogs had
strayed in through the open doorway from the
street. The dogs appeared to excite no surprise
initil the master of the ceremonies (in shirt
sleeves) proceeded to walk round and sprinkle
the boards with powdered resin ; the dancers
then gave way to their delight with shrieks of
laughter and the shrillest cat-calls, for a hungry
cur was closely following him, and greedily
devouring every atom as it fell.

It is said that, even in its palmiest days,
Circle City contained more dogs than people,
and this I can readily believe, for one could
scarcely walk along the streets without stum-
b^nig over one at every step. The Yukon dog is
a terrible thief, and will carry of! anything, from
a piece of bacon to a pair of boots. Everything
of an edible nature in a settlement is therefore
' cached ' in small sheds, built on poles eight or
ten feet high, and entered by a movable ladder.
A good sleigh dog in Alaska costs from $lh to
(^'200, and sometimes more. Nearly all the dogs

162

■.' \

\ ^''

log IS

from
|thing
-efore
Iht or
idder.
175 to
dogs

'/ r »

ALASKA TO BEBING STRAITS

from Circle City and Forty-Mile are now at
Klondike, and many will probably be used for
food there during the coming winter.

Notwithstanding the rowdy element, crime is
rare in Circle City. There is no police, as on
the Canadian side, and practically no govern-
ment. The place is ruled by miner's law, repre-
sented by a society called the ' Yukon Pioneers.'
Everything, from a mining dispute to a broken
head, is settled by this tribunal. There is no
appeal, the law being carried out if necessary by
physical force, and, strange to say, this rough
and ready mode of administering justice has so
far been found satisfactory. There are no
regular banks at Circle City. Gold dust at Sll
an ounce is legal tender, and deposited, as a
rule, with Jack McQuesten, in whose safe
there are frequently 20,000?. worth of nuggets
and dust. Jack's honesty and integrity are well
known from Dyea to St. Michael, and no receipt
is e ^,ked for or, indeed, needed. For the big-
hearted Irishman has too often assisted the poor
and needy miner with funds from his own store
not to be far above suspicion. But robbery of

16'

ji :j

Ill

■

(■
i
i.

liv!i'f

'[<

s\'

fci I :!| (,'

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

any kind is a rarity in Alaska, where the gold-
seekers are more like members of one large
family than anything else — a family which
contains but few black sheep, judging by the
hearty and affectionate welcome which Father
Barnum received from one and all upon his
reappearance at the mining stations en route.
On these occasions the familiar red jersey was
discarded for garments of a sable hue, and the
clerical garb was donned with such celerity that
a facetious passenger one day suggested that the
wearer had mistaken his vocation, and should
have been a ' quick change ' artist. ' Profit by
my example, Joe,' was the bland rejoinder.
' Cleanliness is next to godliness, as I have
always told you, and I am quite sure you have
not had that old " Jumper " off for the last three
years ! ' The shaft hit the mark, for Joe's
aversion to water (in any shape) was a byword
on the Yukon. But few ever ' took on ' our good
priest at repartee and went unscathed away.

Shortly after leaving Circle City the Yukon
widens into a kind of huge lake, perhaps eighty
to a hundred miles in circumference, covered

164

ill

l.:-l .

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

with islands, which render navigation both
tedious and difficult. Fort Yukon (within the
Arctic circle) is the next station of any import-
ance, and the most northerly point on the river,
which now trends away to the south-west.
Fort Yukon is an abandoned trading-post of
the Hudson Bay Company, and was once,
owing to its position near the mouth of the
Porcupine river, a place of considerable import-
ance. It is now deserted but for one white
man, who occupies a rough wooden shanty, and
carries on a trade in furs and fish with the
Indians north and south of his station. Ten or
twelve tents near the landing-place were occupied
by Indians from the Porcupine and its tribu-
taries, who contrasted favourably both in size
and appearance with their brethren of the
Yukon.

A short distance below this point the steamer
* Arctic,* on her way up-river, passed the
' Alice,' and following a practice borrowed fiom
whalers, and known as ' gamming,' both vessels
moored alongside each other for an hour to
exchange news. I was surprised to see many of

165

s'i

if.

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

;■ ri

■(>'.

i' , I

the miners who had left Circle City but twenty-
four hours ago suddenly shake hands with their
comrades, shoulder their belongings, and embark
on the up-river boat, some of the Forty-Mile
passengers following their example. I learnt
that this is a common occurrence on the Yukon,
and it only serves to show the feverish restless
habits engendered by the search for gold in even
the most practical men. ' Old Pete,' an old-
timer, who left us with the rest to go back to
his claim, had already made three ineffectual
attempts to leave the country. Several tribu-
taries join the Yukon between the Porcupine
river and the settlement of Nulato (which was
reached on July 18), but with the exception of
the Tanana and Koyukuk ^ rivers, none of any
great importance. Nulato is a fair-sized village,
which bears the unenviable notoriety of having
been the scene of many tragedies connected
with white settlers. Among others. Lieutenant
Barnard - was murdered here by Indians in 1851 ;

' The Koynknk river, which enters the Yukon near Nulato,
was proBpectetl in 189o 94, nnd indications of good placers found.
- See Appendix E.

i66

n w\

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

Mrs. Beane, wife of an employe in the Alaska
Commercial Company, was shot by natives in
1879 ; while, at a spot not far distant, Archbishop
Seghers, of the Catholic Church, was treacher-
ously murdered by his white servant in 1886.
Nulato is also famed for the size and virulence of
its mosquitoes ; but, although it is an established
fact that nine dogs were actually killed by these
pests during the month preceding our arrival, we
did not suffer so much here as at many places
up-river.

There are no places of interest on the Lower
Yukon, although, owing to the fur trade, settle-
ments become more numerous as we near the
sea. The pleasantest memory that I retain of
the dreary journey from Circle City to St.
Michael is the Catholic mission of the Holy
Cross at Koserefski, which is prettily situated in
a grassy valley formed by low, undulating hills.
The ' Alice ' remained here for a few hours,
which enabled me to visit the mission. The
latter consists of several neat wooden buildings,
comprising dwelling-houses for the sisters, a
priest's house, a pretty chapel, a school for the

167

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

('■'•!

native children, and a vegetable garden, where
potatoes and cabbages had been grown with
doubtful success. Here too was the first and
last flower-garden that we came across in
Alaska. It was pathetic to see the care that
had been lavished on the flowers — poor things
at best — but which infused a touch of warmth
and colour even into this lonely waste. One of
the sisters pointed with pride to some mignon-
ette that during the first few days of the brief
summer had been carefully taken indoors every
night, and as carefully replanted every morning,
for fear of the frost ! At one end of the garden
was a statue of Our Lady, enshrined in a tiny
chapel of pine boughs, while a large white cross
near the mission marked the resting-place of a
poor sister who had died just before our arrival.
The climate of Koserefski is very trying, and
many deaths have already occurred here, al-
though the mission was only founded some ten
years ago. Before leaving we visited the schools,
models of neat cleanliness, where twenty or
thirty children of both sexes were at work.
French is the language spoken, and it seemed

1 68

■

ALASKA TO SEEING STEAITS

strange to hear the crisp clean accent again in
this out-of-the-way corner of creation. But the
whole place wore an air of peace and homeliness
so different to the squalid settlements up-river
that one might almost have imagined oneself
in some quiet village in far-away France.

Father Barnum, our good friend and com-
panion during many weary days of travel, left us
at Koserefski, and it was with sincere regret that
we bade him farewell. Few human beings are
endowed with the courage, geniality, and supreme
unselfishness that characterised one whom I
shall alwavs be proud to remember as a fellow-
traveller, and whose acquaintance I sincerely
hope some day to renew in more civilised regions.

A new world awaits us a few hours below
Koserefski. Trees are no longer visible. Vast
plains of grey ■ tundra ' roll away to the horizon
on every side, and the monotony, as the steamer
churns her way through the muddy stream,
becomes wearisome in the extreme. The un-
savoury Indian and his birch-bark canoe are
now things of the past. We have reached the
land of the queer-looking fur-clad Eskimo, who

169

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

'fr

darts alongside in his tiny skin ' kyak,' with
a smile on his honest brown features, a con-
trast to the sullen, vicious faces we have left
behind us. Nor is this the only sign that the
Alaskan part of our Journey is drawing to an
end, for a sharp bite in the air towards evening
warns us that w^e are rapidly nearing Bering Sea
and the confines of the Great Frozen Ocean.

On July 20 we reach the Aphoon, one of the
many mouths of the Yukon, and anchor off
Kutlik, a tiny settlement in the midst of an
Arctic desert, composed, in summer, of soaking
impassable prairie, in winter, of an unbroken
plain of ice and snow stretching drearily away to
the Arctic Ocean. From here a sea journey of
sixty odd hours separates us from our destination,
a passage which strong and frequent gales and
a heavy sea occasionally render very unpleasant,
if not dangerous, in a flat-bottomed river boat.
But fortune favours us. The treacherous waters
of Bering Sea are, for a wonder, smooth and
sunlit, and at midday, on July 21, we anchor off
Fort St. Michael, the journey here from New
York having occupied exactly fifty-six days.

170

\k 4

ALASKA TO BEIUNG STEAITS

CHAPTEE VIII

AMONG THE ESKIMO— THE ' BEAR '— KING's
ISLAND

Webe I condemned to live in Alaska (which
Heaven forbid ! ) I should certainly select St.
Michael as a place of residence ; for, although the
inhabitants are practically prisoners during nine
months of the year, it is a bright clean little
place, a contrast to the dirty slipshod towns of
the interior. First and foremost, there are few
mosquitoes, which is in itself an incalculable
blessing. Moreover, the cold, which inland
sometimes registers 80° (Fahr.) below zero,
seldom falls here below 55'' below zero (see
Appendix F) ; and, although rain and fog are
prevalent in autumn, and mid-winter brings
down terrific blizzards from the north, the short
wintry days are generally bright, still, and
pleasant. Plenty of sport is obtainable on the
mainland. Caribou, wild-geese, duck, and

171

!•

jili

('■'

If, !l

I: i.f

II III I!

THROUGPI THE GOLD-FIKLDS OF

ptarmigan abound ; but, although sahnon are
numerous, they will not rise to a fly. The agent
of this branch of the Alaska Connnercial Com-
pany (who controls a district rather larger in
area than Germany) has known them lo scale as
high as 100 lbs.

Fort St. Michael, which has, under American
rule, become a place of considerable importance,
is separated from the mainland of Alaska by
a narrow strait four or live miles broad. The
island is composed of ' tundra ' ; a swampy
plain like those beyond the tree-limit in Siberia,
impassable in summer, but admirably adapted
for sleighing purposes. The settlement consists
chiefly of warehouses and dweUings erected by
the Alaska Commercial Company, which form
one long street, neatly paved with wood, and
kept scrupulously clean in wot or dusty weather.
There is also a large barn-like building dignilied
by the name of * Hotel,' for the use of miners
and others entering or leaving the country, who
frequently have to wait here several days (if not
weeks) for an ocean or river steamer. Natives
are forbidden to reside in the settlement; but

172

I I

" . ft

fi'M ■

■'K'

ili

ALASKA TO BEEING STRAITS

the low green hills around are dotted with the
white tents of the Eskimo, who, during the
summer, travel here with furs from great
distances. A neat green-roofed church, an old
bastion, and some rusty cannon are the sole
remaining rehcs of the time when grey-coated
Cossacks garrisoned the island, and rifles were
more plentiful than the almighty dollar. A
Russian priest also resides here ; for the Greek
Church has still many missions throughout the
country, largely subsidised by the Russian
Government.'

I have generally found in my wanderings
that, whether an Englishman be roasting on the
sands of an African desert or freezing on the
floes of the Arctic, he generally manages to make
his immediate surroundings as comfortable (if
not as luxurious) as circumstances will permit.
I have starved with a French regiment three
miles from a railway in Algeria, and eaten ice
cream with a Scotch planter in the wilds of
Borneo; but I was scarcely prepared for th3

• The ' Redonte St. Michael,' as it was formerly called, was
founded by Lieut. Tebeiikoff, of the Russian service, in 1835.

^7^

■ laipiui

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

1 1, I

i t

■■fill

:( ■ i|

reception awaiting me at the house of my fellow-
coiuitryman, Mr. Wilson, of the Alaska Com-
mercial Company, and his charming wife, who
had surromided themselves with all the refine-
ment and comforts of an English home. I was
resigned to a more or less lengthened sojourn at
the barn-like building aforementioned, but was
rescued by Mr. Wilson, who carried me off to
his cosy dwelling, with a hearty invitation to
' stop as long as I liked, and the longer the
better.' So I was r'^^'^ installed in a pretty
bedroom with chintz curtains under the agent's
hospitable roof, wondering whether this were not
all a dream, from which I should presently
awake on the wrong side of the Grand Canon, or
in my grimy cabin on board the ' Alice.' For
it seemed all too good to be true. A warm bath
was, in itself, an undreamt-of luxury, the
excellent dinner that followed it a revelation
in this northern wilderness. These, and the
cigars and whisky-and-soda that preceded a
' Nirvana ' of pillows and clean sheets, remain to
this day engraven on my memory, undimmed by
subsequent miseries on the western shores of

174

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

Bering Straits, that might well have effaced a
less pleasurable reminiscence.

Notwithstanding its cheerful surroundings,
a gloomy interest is attached to St. Michael
from the fact that it is the last port generally
visited by Arctic expeditions before entering the
frozen region that enshrines the world's great
mystery. It was from here that the ill-fated
* Jeannette ' set out in August 1879 on a voyage
destined to furnish a record of suffering unpar-
alleled even in Arctic annals.^ Two years later
the U.S. ' Rodgers ' called here for the last
time on her way north, to be afterwards totally
destroyed by fire in St. Lawrence Bay, Siberia.
I also retain unpleasant memories, from a
travelling point of view, of St. Michael ; for it
was here that my projected ice-journey across
Bering Straits received its final coup de grace.

My original intention upon . leaving New
York w^as to proceed to St. Michael, remain
there until winter set in, and then travel on by

' ' This is a miserable place,' wrote poor De Long in his journal of
St. Michael. ' Desolate and cheerless as the place is, we may j'et
look back upon it as a kind of earthly paradise.' Tlie words were
indeed prophetic I

THEOUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

: :( =

I):' I

.;,, )!(■■ /

ih!

dog-sleigh to Cape Prince of Wales, on the
American shores of Bering Straits. There is a
reindeer station near here (established a few
years ago by the United States Government),
where I proposed to procure natives, dogs, and
sledges, and await a favourable moment for
crossing to the neighbourhood of East Cape, in
Asia, a distance of about forty miles, over the
ice. It was by no means certain, however, that
the latter extended the entire distance from
shore to shore. I had ransacked the library of
the Royal Geographical Society in vain for
information on this important point, to say
nothing of perhaps a score of v > ks by Russian
and Swedish Arctic explorers, but with no result.
Even experienced whaling men in San Francisco
differed as to the possibility of the sleigh
Journey across Bering Straits. As a matter of
fact, however, few of them had ever seen the
latter between the months of November and
July, when the whaling ships are either winter-
ing far away in the ice off Herschel Island,
summering in southern seas, or snugly reposing
on the mud inside the Golden Gate. For the

176

ALASKA TO BERING STIUITS

iigh

r of

the

and

iter-

land,

^sing

the

same reason the Eskimo around St. Michael
could tell me nothing ; for, although many of
them were in the habit of trading up and down
the Straits in skin boats during the open season,
they knew no more about the condition of the
ice than a Margate excursionist.

Fortunately, however, shortly after my
arrival a party of SiberiPxi natives landed here
from East Cape, the most easterly point of Asia,
about 250 miles distant, in a ' baidar^ ' ^ laden
with furs, deer-skins, and other trading goods.
They encamped just outside the settlement, and
I immediately visited them, accompanied by a
Russian half-breed as interpreter, to gain, if
possible, some information whereon to form plans
for the future. I was then unacquainted with
the amiable qualities of the Tchuktchi, but was
at once struck with their sullen, ill-favoured
appearance and manners. The crew numbered
about twenty, of whom perhaps a third were
women and children. It was difficult, at first,
to overcome the shyness and suspicion aroused
by our appearance, and the nervousness engen-

' A skin boat.

177 N

THKOUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

dered by the crowd of Eskimo around ; for a
Tchuktchi away from his own home and people
becomes as timid as a child. Trading, too, was
their object, and they would not discuss other
subjects until I produced a tin of English
tobacco. Tongues then wagged more freely,
and the spokesman, a sulky beetlebrowed giant,
even relaxed into a grim smile when he heard of
my intention, which was retailed, evidently as
an excellent joke, to his companions. The
Straits, we were assured, are never crossed
except when a man has been carried away by
accident on a floe from the ' foot-ice.' * On these
occasions only both Eskimo and Tchuktchi had
occasionally been swept away and landed on the
opposite coast, but this was a very rare occurrence.
The majority perished, for the simple reason
that Bering Straits are never, even during the
severest winter, entirely frozen over from shore
to shore. An ice-jam of a few hours may, and
does, occur at intervals ; but there is a channel
halfway across, where huge ice-floes are con-
tinually on the move, crushing and grinding

^ Ice securely fastened to the coast.
178

''3

ALASKA TO BEEING STRAITS

:or a
eople
, was
other
iglish
'reely,
giant,
iard of
itly as
The
crossed
vay by
n these
hi had
on the
irrence.
reason

mg the
shore

ay, and
ihannel
•e con-
rinding

their way into and out of the Pohir Sea. This
channel is (so far as we could roughly ascertain
by measuring on a paddle) about ten miles broad,
or a quarter of the distance over. The Tchuktchi
added that a sleigh journey is sometimes made
to the American coast by natives of the Diomede
Islands, about fifteen miles distant from Cape
Prince of Wales, but even this was only attempted
in cases of extreme urgency, such as starvation,
(fee. Our informant, however, and the whole
boat's crew, emphatically denied the possibility
of a winter journey from America to Asia,
across Bering Straits.^

It was a terrible disappointment, but one
cannot achieve impossibilities. There was, there-
fore, nothing to be done but to await the arrival of
the U.S. Revenue cutter ' Bear,' which, through
the kindly mediation of Sir Julian Pauncefote, the
British Ambassador at Washington, had been
placed at my disposal by the American authori-
ties in the event of a difficulty of this kind.
The ' Bear ' was patrolling the Arctic, and did

* Bering Straits have an average depth of twenty-six fathoms,
and are closed by ice-floes from the middle or end of October till the
first or second week in Jimo— souietiiues later.

179

N 2

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

■! ;i

not turn up for five weeks, which gave me plenty
of time and opportunity for studying (under
exceptionally comfortable circumstances) the
habits and customs of that strange being the
Alaskan Eskimo.

The Alaskan Eskimo have been estimated
by the Russian explorer Ivan Petroff ^ to
number about 18,000. They inhabit the whole
coast-line of Alaska west of the 141st meridian,
with the exception of the northern part of
Cook's Inlet, that portion of Alaska west of the
157th meridian, and the Shumagin and Aleutian
group of islands. It is curious that, although
only forty miles apart, the American and Asia-
tic shores of Bering Straits should be peopled
by tribes so utterly dissimilar in disposition,
customs, and language. The Siberian Tchuktchi
is engrained with every vice compatible with
his isolated position. The Alaskan Eskimo are
honest, good-tempered, and invariably friendly
towards strangers. And yet, notwithstanding
their widely different natures, the Eskimo

' A special agent deputed ]>y the United States Government to
report upon the population, industries, and resources of Alaska.

i8o

i !.'

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

Iment to

resembles the Tchuktchi in his habits. Both
subsist ahnost entirely upon fish, and are
equally repulsive in their daily life. Physically
speaking, however, the Tchuktchi is superior to
his neighbour. The average height of an Eskimo
is about 5 feet 6 inches ; that of a Tchuktchi,
at least two inches more. Neither race, however,
are devoid of courage, and at sea, in the most
tempestuous weather, they know no fear.

The Eskimo woman ages rapidly, but when
young is not repellent, and sometimes even
good-looking. They dress, like the men, in the
' parka ' (a long loose garment reaching to the
knee, made of musk-rat or reindeer's skin) and
fur-seal boots and breeches. It was puzzling
at first to distinguish the sexes, for the Eskimo
are a smooth-faced race ; but the fair sex are
generally adorned with small tattoo marks upon
the chin. An Eskimo woman is treated more
or less as a beast of burthen, as among the
Tchuktchis, but is taken better care of in Alaska
than among the Siberian natives.

The winter dwellings of the Eskimo are
simply pits in the ground roofed over with

i8i

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

logs, with a piece of fish-skin or walrus entrail
for a window.' The hut is entered by a kind
of antechamber, on the top of which is a
hole just large enough to admit the body of a
man. A step-ladder is descended to a narrow
passage or tunnel which leads to the principal
room, fifteen or twenty feet away. The sole
furniture of an Eskimo residence is a seal-oil
lamp for cooking and heating purposes, which is
lit in the autumn and burns incessantly until
the following spring. The hut is generally
about six to eight feet high and thirty or forty
feet in circumference. It is sometimes occupied
by ten or fifteen persons, and during stormy
weather, when every aperture is closed, the
stench and vitiated air become almost un-
bearable. The summer dwellings were formerly
constructed aboveground, of light poles roofed
over with skins ; but these have been almost
entirely superseded by tents of American drill,
which are cheaper, and to a stranger infinitely
preferable to the old-fashioned huts.

' A hut I saw near St. Michael was covered with bear, walrus,
and dog skulls, but this was a rarity.

182

ALASKA TO BEEING STKAITS

ntrail
kind
is a
y of a
larrow
ncipal
e sole
jeal-oil
hich is
y until
nerally
ir forty
scupied
stormy
d, the
st un-
rmerly
roofed
almost
n drill,
finitely

lar, walruB,

Every Eskimo settlement has its * kashga,'
a kind of council house, usually of much larger
dimensions than the surrounding huts. The
kashga is also used as a kind of club or residence
for the youths and unmarried men -^f the village.
Guests from a distance are always lodged, and
matters of public importance discussed, in this
establishment, which sometimes measures sixty
or seventy feet square and twenty to thirty feet
high. According to the explorer Elliott, the
' kashga is the theatre for the absurd masked
dances and mummery of the festivals, and
above .11 is the spot chosen for that vile ain-
moniacal bath of the Eskimo, the most popular
of all their recreations.'

I w^as not privileged to witness the bathing
process, which is thus graphically described by
an eyewitness : —

'At some time in the afternoon the fire is
drawn from the hot stones on the hearth, and
the water and a kantag of chamber-lye poured
over them, which, arising in dense clouds of
vapour, gives notice (by its presence and its
horrible ammoniacal odour) to the delighted

T83

"•^^™

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

itmV

I I

inmates that the bath is on. The " kashga " is
heated to suffocation, it is full of smoke, and the
outside men run in from their huts, with wisps of
dry grass for towels, and bunches of alder-twigs
to Hog their naked bodies. They throw oil their
garments ; they shout and dance and whip them-
selves into profuse perspiration as they caper
in the hot vapour. More of their disgusting
substitute for soap is rubbed on, and produces
a lather, which they rince off with cold water ;
and, to cap the full enjoyment of this Satanic
bath, these naked actors rush out and roll in a
snow-bank or plunge into the icy flood of some
lake or river adjoining, as the season warrants.
This is the most enjoyable occasion of an
Eskimo's existence, so he solemnly affirms.
Nothing else affords him a tithe of the infinite
pleasure which this orgie gives him. To us,
however, there is nothing so offensive about
y . that stench which such a performance

^ases.' ^
The daily fare of these people is not enticing.
The staple food is boiled seal-meat, and in

' An Arctic Province, by Henry Elliott.
184

ALASKA TO BEIiING STRAITS

Ithe

;ps of

twigs

their

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sunimor-tiiiie the sahnon and utlier fish that
abound in the rivers and on the sea-coast. But
the Eskimo is a gourmet in his way, and
there are certain dishes invariably placed
before an honoured guest with ostentation. A
very favourite one is the ' triplicherat,' made
during the warm season. A hole is dug and
tilled with raw salmon-heads. After ten days'
exposure to the sun the upper layer of heads is
(for obvious reasons) in a state of constant
motion. A portion of the putrid mass is tlien
heaped upon a wooden platter and greedily
devoured. Kotten goose eggs, and the ' kama-
mok,' a kind of mayonnaise of stale fish-roe
mashed up with salmon-berries and flavoured
with seal oil, are also favourite delicacies, which,
though they may not sound appetising to the
reader, are as carefully prepared and appreciated in
this Arctic wilderness as the most delicate i^lats
in London, at the Savoy or Berkeley Restai. rants.
The Eskimo are expert and daring fishermen.
The tiny ' kyak ' is used in smooth water and
the larger ' baidanl ' on long sea journeys.
The former is merely a seal-skin canoe, with

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. I I ;.

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-I ;ii

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circular hatches for one to three men ; but the
' baidar^ ' is of walrus-hide, about forty feet long,
and carries from twenty to thirty persons.
' baidar^s ' will live in a heavy sea, but are
rather trying to the nervous novice, in constant
dread of breaking through the flimsy fabric.
The water oeneath is plainly visible ; but the
natives walk boldly about, and depress the skin
a couple of inches with unconcern, being well
aware that the spot they stand on would
probably sustain a ton or more. The Eskimo are
also skilful hunters, and thousands of skins are
stored in the Alaska Commercial Company's
warehouses, which at the time of our visit
contained enough material to stock one side of
Bond Street.^

Tobacco is smoked and chewed indiscrimi-
nately by both sexes and all ages. The Eskimo
failing for alcohol is proverbial, but fortunately
seldom indulged in ; for an Eskimo becomes,
like the Tchuktchi, a mad, ungovernable beast
under the influence of drink. Most of the
vile whisky illegally traded by whalers goes to

' See Appendix G.

1 86

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ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

the Siberian coast, where there is less risk in
landing it, and the Eskimo has to fall back upon
tobacco as his only solace. There is no waste,
for the supply is extremely limited. A plug is
sucked at for days, until every particle of flavour
has vanished. It is then carefully dried, and
eventually smoked in a tiny brass or stone pipe
that holds barely a thimbleful.

The days shp quickly away at St. Michael's,
for the weather is bright and pleasant, and time
seldom hangs heavy on one's hands. MiUions
of geese, duck, and waterfowl are to be found
within easy distance of the place, and capital
sport is to be had by walking a mile or so.
Enjoyment, however, is somewhat marred by
the mosquitoes, which, although they seldom visit
the settlement, swarm in the ' tundra,' and one
hundred yards across the latter, on account of
its swampy nature, about equals a mile over
ordinary ground. A young English missionary,
temporarily located here, and an ardent shot
(thr igh somewhat unversed in sporting vernacu-
lar), opines that the ' bands ' ' of grouse (ptarmi-

' Presumably ' coveys.'
187

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THRO UGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

gan) amply compensate for the labour involved
in reaching them ; but I do not quite share his
opinion. Still, there is plenty to do in fine
'veather, strollnig about the busy, bustling
settlement, or inspecting the Esldmo encamp-
ment, while a goodly collection of books and the
latest papers render even rainy days in the
agent's quarters anything but dull. On still, fine
evenings I generally stroll down after dinner to
the wharf, to watch the Eskimo fish for rock-
cod, which they pull out with a hne, at the rate
of about twenty to the minute. A solitary
sailing vessel is generally anchored in the bay,
and I sometimes embark in a ' kayak ' to pay
her a visit, sure of a welcome from the lor ^^ly
skipper impatiently awaiting sailing orders, which,
however, will generally not long be delayed. For
by the end o September most of the shipping
has cleared for the south. A stray whaler may
look in on her way down from the Arctic, but
the last days of November will convert the blue
waters of Norton Souixd into an icy waste,
stretching its dreary length far away, almost to
the shores of Asia. Music or a game at cards

i88

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ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

often winds up the day ; for our pcarty before my
departure is increased by the arrival of Messrs.
Sloss and Neumann, of the Alaska Commercial
Company— a couple of thorough Bohemians, not-
withstanding their mercantile calling, and as
familiar with brighter Paris as the darkest
regions of the great mysterious land they have
explored and exploited so well. So there is no
lack of conversation on the most varied topics,
and the former is frequently carried on till the
small hours, much to the detriment of our good
host's cellar and cigar-box !

The Revenue cutter 'Bear' did not arrive
off St. Michael until the morning of September
4, when I at once boarded her, and obtained the
permission of Captain Tuttle, her genial com-
mander, to cross on her to the Siberian coast.
The word ' cutter ' is somewhat a misnomer (if
literally taken) for the Government vessels that
patrol these northern waters. The 'Bear,' for
instance, is a three-masted screw-steamer of over
six hundred tons. She was built in Dundee, and
originally intended for whaling purposes, but
was purchased by the United States Govern-

189

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ment for the Greely expedition. The ' Bear '
is said to be the best and strongest ship in
the Revenue cutter service for Arctic work, and
has certainly rendered more services, and saved
more lives, than nny other three ships in the
fleet.'

Time was precious, for heavy ice was already
reported as far south as Cape Prince of Wales.
A few hours, however, sufficed to embark our
stores and a few bulky packages containing
articles of barter for the Siberian natives of the
far north, amongst whom money is unknown.
At nine o'clock on the evening of September 4
we weighed anchor, having taken leave of our
kind hosts, and put to sea, a parting salute from
the rusty old Russian guns at the agency herald-
ing our departure for the unknown.

Bering Sea is noted for its intricate navigation
and violent storms, and on this occasion did not

' The ' Bear ' was despatched from Seattle, U.S.A., to the
rescue of the imprisoned whalers in November 1897 {see Appen-
dix I). The intention is to get as far north as the ice will permit,
and sleigh on with provisions to the ice-bound ships. The journey
(at this season of the year) is one fraught with the greatest peril,
and the return of the stout little ship and her gallant crew is
anxiously awaited throughout the United States.

190

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ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

belie its character. Although a blue sky and
light breezes favoured us during the first day,
the next morning found us hove to in a moun-
tainous sea. Towards sundown, however, the
weather moderated, and enabled us to proceed
to our first destination. King's Island, one of the
most curious and interesting places it has ever
fallen to my lot to visit.

King's Island is simply a mass of rock about
a mile long and nearly six hundred feet high.
On approaching it are noticed what at first appear
to be a number of swallows' nests, stuck like
limpets to the sheer face of the cliff. These are
the suimner huts of the King's Islanders — walrus-
hide dwellings lashed to the side of the cliff ; for
the terrible tempests that sweep over this barren
rock would make short work of any hut on
its summit. These natives subsist entirely on
walrus, for there is not a blade of grass or
spoonful of soil in the place. In 1890 the ' Bear '
found the 300 inhabitants reduced to a third of
that number by starvation. Walrus had been
scarce, and for eight months in the year com-
munication with the mainland (more than forty

191

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miles distcant) is entirely cut off by the ice. The
survivors had eaten all their dogs, and had l)een
living for sever.al months on seaweed. Had the
' Bear ' not rescued them, all must have perished
before the following sunnner.

W' anchored about three hundred yards off
shore, but a heavy swell did not prevent several
of the islanders, both men and women, from
paying us a visit. They were a merry, pleasant-
looking lot of fellows, allied to the Alaskan
Eskimo in language and appearance. Many of
the men wore labrets, or pieces of stone or ivory,
thrust into the lower lip, which gave them a
sinister look that belied their kindly, hospitable
nature, and all the married women carried their
lateoC born slung round tbeir necks by a piece of
walrus thong. The King's Islanders are skilful
at carving, and several of our visitors had brought
walrus tusks most beautifully fashioned, to
exchange for tobacco and, if possible, whisky;
but the latter is a luxury sternly denied them on
board the ' Bear.'

Captain Tuttle originally intended to land us
at East Cape, Siberia. There is a Tchuktchi

192

ill

I '•J

bill

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ALASKA TO BERING STllAITS

settlement there, whence we might reasonably
have hoped to reach the Siberian settlement
of Nijni-Kolymsk — a two months' journey by
dog-sleigh, according to Colonel Gilder, the
American traveller, who accomplished it a few
years ago. From Nijni-Kolymsk all would have
been fairly plain sailing (under the circum-
stances) to St. Petersburg. But East Cape was,
it now appeared, completely blocked by ice and
unapproachable. So there was nothing for it
but to make for a harbour about a hundred
miles farther south — known to whalers as
Indian Point. This place is marked Cape
Tchaplin on most maps ; Cape Tchukotskoi on
others ; but its native name is Oumwaidjik, and
the natives know no other. Here we were
landed on September 8, 1896, when the snowy
landscape and severe cold were more suggestive
of mid-winter than early autumn. We said
good-bye to our kind American shipmates with
genuine regret, and not without some apprehen-
sion. For when the trim white ship finally
disappeared beneath the horizon, we felt indeed
that our last link with civilisation was severed —
for good and all !

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CHAPTEK IX

OUMWAIDJIK

Our new residence might fitly be described as
' the end of the end ' of the world. Nearly one
thousand miles north of Kamchatka and within
a day's journey of the Polar Sea, Oumwaidjik
stands on a narrow reef, fully exposed in
summer to the huge breakers of Bering Sea, but
protected in winter by precipitous mountains
from the furious bli/zards that sweep over
Arctic Siberia. One wonders how human beings
can exist in this gloomy region, utterly devoid
of fuel and the barest necessaries of life. For
eight months of the year the place is ice-locked,
but even during the brief summer a sail very
rarely breaks the sky-line.

The sudden change from a snug ward-room
to a filthy hut is not a pleasant experience at any
time. It was rendered doubly disagreeable in
our case by the fact that two months at least

194

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ALASKA TO BEKING STKAITS

must elapse before we could hope to continue
our journey ; for here, as in Northern Alaska, it
is quite impossible to travel except in winter-
time by dog-sleigh over the frozen ' tundra.'
One Koari, a tall, strapping fellow about fifty
years of age, was chief of Oumwaidjik, or
rather headman, for there are no chiefs among
the Tchuktchis. Koari had amassed more
whalebone, furs, and walrus tusks than his
fellows, and was thus leader of the community.
He was therefore selected by Captain Tuttle to
be our ' guide, philosopher, and friend ' during our
lengthened stay in the dreary settlement, and
was also deputed to see that dog-sleighs were
forthcoming to convey us to Anadyrsk as soon
as the ground was fit for travel. Anadyrsk, a
tiny settlement situated on the river of that
name, is the Ultima Thule of Kussian civilisa-
tion in Siberia, but is yet a good four hundred
miles south of Oumwaidjik. According to
Koari, the journey was as easy as falling of! a
log. ' White men, plenty flour, plenty calico,
give Koari. Koari give good dog, good sled
— catch-um ten slee^)s easy : ' which, being

195 v2

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interpreted, meant that our friend would, on
payment of the above-mentioned stores, transport
us to the white settlement in ten days at most.
The eagerness with which our outfit was seized
and securely housed by this self-crowned King of
Oumwaidjik awakened, at the time, no suspicion
in my mind, nor did I attach much importance
to the fact that the word ' Anadyrsk ' seemed to
convey nothing to our Tchuktchi host or any
of his followers. That village, I reasoned, was
probably known among them by another name.
' Me know, catch-um plenty house, plenty white
man, ten sleep,' was the sole but somewhat
vague information that we could gleam anent
our journey and destination, and with this we
were forced to be content. Subsequent events
have convinced me that Koari was one of those
plausible smooth-faced scoundrels that would
inspire confidence in a Scotland Yard detective,
for as a ' Chevalier d'Industrie,' he would certainly
have made his mark in a more civilised sphere.
I have never met his equal for cruelty, cunning,
and duplicity, characteristics rendered the more
deadly by the fine intellectual face and frank

196

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ALASKA TO BEEING STRAITS

genial manner that masked them. The man, in
short, was a born actor, and we landed in his cursed
village firmly convinced that we possessed one
staunch friend at least among the crowd of
scowling faces that greeted our arrival on
the beach.

The dwelling first assigned to us by Koari
was not the ordinary Tchuktchi habitation, which
consists of walrus-hides stretched over a whale-
rib framework. On landing we looked around in
vain for traces of our stores ; but our baggage
was quickly placed on a dog-sleigh and dragged
perhaps three hundred yards to a kind of shed,
which, small as it was, towered over the low
circular huts around it. The structure was
of rough deal planks, and had originally been
intended for a refuge at Point Hope, on the
Arctic Ocean. Heavy ice having rendered the
latter unapproachable, the house was eventually
traded to Koari, and, the boards being numbered,
was easily run up by the crew of the trading
schooner that had failed to reach her destination.
Thus a mere accident enabled us to live in com-
parative seclusion for the first few weeks; for,

197

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although our residence was barely 11 feet by 8
feet, reeked with damp, and (having been
nihabited by Tchuktchis) swarmed with vermin,
it was at any rate provided with a window, a
watertight roof, and a door with a stout padlock.
Our hut had no chimney, which, as we had no
coal, mattered little. A couple of small coal-oil
stoves, however, were speedily set going ; and
with the additional aid of a kerosene lamp the
place soon began to look more habitable. But,
although we had already adopted the native dress
of furs and seal-skin boots, we suffered a good deal
from cold the first two or three nights, and were
glad to crawl into our sleeping bags long before
sunset. Fuel was a source of constant anxiety
for the future. There is not a splinter of wood to
be had for many hundred miles from here, and our
supply of coal-oil was necessarily limited. But
Captain Tuttle had kindly left us a small table,
and a couple of empty cases furnished us with
chairs. We were also provided with perhaps a
dozen books and a pack of playing cards, so that,
everything considered, we w^ere even better off
(as regards comfort) than we had imagined it

198

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

possible to be on the bleak barren shores of
Bering Straits.

The hut was soon crowded to suffocation by
natives, and the stench (for reasons which I
shall presently explain) becoming unbearable, I
left the place in charge of Harding, and started
off, followed by a small crowd of men and boys,
to inspect our new surroundings.

The village of Oumwaidjik consists of perhaps
fifty walrus-hide huts, inhabited by about three
hundred souls. The settlement stands at the
extremity of a long low spit (about three miles
long by two broad), composed in the centre of
marshland surrounded by deep shingle down to
the sea. The spit is but a few feet above sea-
level, and undulating ridges of shingle far inland
denote that this dreary patch was once almost
entirely submerged. Two or three large salt-
water lakes some distance from the sea bear out
this theory. A number of grassy mounds in
the centre of the village give it somewhat the
appearance of an old Roman encampment.
These were formerly the underground winter
dwellings of the Tchuktchis, the old whale-ribs

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used as rafters being still visible. These
subterranean abodes are now entirely discarded,
and are used cliieil_y as ' caches ' for provisions,
which a large number of dogs renders very
necessary. The latter arc snarling, ill-tempered
brutes, and somewhat disquieting at first to a
stranger. But I soon found that a pebble or
two sent a whole pack of them Hying, never to
return.

The Tchuktchis may be classed as two
distinct tribes, of \\hich there are naturally
many subdivisions : (1) the Coast Tchuktchis,
who inhabit the seaboards of the Arctic Ocean
and Bering Straits, and subsist chiefly by
hunting and lishing; and (2) the Eeindeer
Tchuktchis, who roam about the interior north
of Anadyrsk, iwd derive a living from the
animal in question. Hovgaard rates the Coast
Tchuktchis at '2,000 and the Reindeer
Tchuktchis at from 3,000 to 10,000. I fancy,
however, that if we put down the entire
Tchuktchi race at 10,000 we shall prob-
ably rather over- than underestimate their
numbers.

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ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

The Tchuktchis have been called, and with
reason, the Soudanese of Siberia ; for they are
unquestionably the bravest and most warlike
race indigenous to that lone land of mystery
and stupendous distances. The Ostiaks,
Yakoutes, and other natives bring in their
yearly tribute of furs or ivory with unfailing
regularity. They are more or less within the
jurisdiction of the ' Tchinovnik ' ; but the
Tchuktchi, secure in his mountain fastnesses,
several hundred miles north of the northern-
most Russian settlement, can snap his fingers
with impunity at all law and order. Indeed,
Koari himself had never even heard of Russia
or the Great White Tsar, and I fancy would have
questioned the supremacy of even that mighty
potentate over the strip of territory that acknow-
ledged our fur-clad friend as ruler.

But the halo of romance shed by its bravery
and independence over this wild race is sadly
blurred after a few days' residence in their
midst. The Tchuktchis are noted (even among
the Alaskan Eskimo) as being the filthiest people
in creation, and I can honestly indorse this

201

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tr ; }

'III iai i.

statement. It would bo quite impossible to
describe even tbe least repulsive details of their
daily life, which, for the first two or three days
of our sojourn at Oumwaidjik, rendered eating a
matter of the greatest difiiculty. The name
given by whalers to the natives of this coast is
' Masinker,' which, in one of the many local
dialects, signifies 'Good.' The addition of a
single letter would perhaps have been more
descriptive (if less melodious), for the presence of
even a couple of Tchuktchis in Drury Lane, on a
crowded night, would, I am firndy convinced,
speedily clear the theatre. The odour is in-
describable, but so powerful and penetrating
that it clung to our furs for months after we left
the place, and filtered into our closed windows
from the nearest hut, ten paces away. This
characteristic smell of the Tchuktchi is chiefly
caused by a certain emanation of the human
body which enters largely into his daily life.
The fluid is used for cleaning food platters,
drinking cups, &c., is employed for tanning
purposes, and is also prepared as a disgusting
substitute for soap. I tried in vain to discover

202

ALASKA TO BERINa STRAITS

the origin of this strange and, to civilised ideas,
very offensive custom, which also prevails, but
in a lesser degree, among the Alaskan Eskimo.

The latter are, physically speaking, very
inferior to their Asiatic neighbours, who are
fine powerful men averaging 5 ft. 8 in. We saw
at least half a dozen at Oumwaidjik who
exceeded 6 feet in height. Furs are worn
throughout the year, the men being clad in the
deerskin ' parka ' (which here, unlike the Eskimo
fashion, is secured by a walrus-hide belt) and
hair-seal boots and breeches. A cap is rarely
worn, but a hood fastened to the parka is drawn
over the head in bad weather. Men and boys
have the crown and base of the skull closely
shaved, leaving a coarse circular fringe of hair,
which at a distance gives them a curiously
monastic appearance. The women are queer
undersized little creatures (even smaller than their
Eskimo sisters), but are when young distinctly
prepossessing, although their filthy habits and
appearance counteract any good looks they may
possess. They wear a kind of loose bloomer
costume, or deerskin ' combinations ' made in

203

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TilUOlIGlI THE aOJ.I)-Kll^]IJ)S 01^'

one piece find Lriiumed at the neck iind wrists
with wolverine. The hair is worn in two long
plaits intertwined with gaudy beads. Some
wear strings of the latter thrust through holes
bored in the upper part of the ear, the lobe
being left intact. As soon as a child is liorn it
is sewn into a deer-skin bag, which leaves only
the head uncovered, from which it only emerges
like a chrysalis when it has found its legs.

Koari's hut ' may be taken as a fair specimen
of a Tchuktchi dwelling. It was constructed of
two thicknesses of walrus-hide stretched over a
nearly circular wha' lib framework, the latter
being used in the absence of wood. The door-
frame and doorway were, however, made of pieces
of wreckage found on the shore. The house
measured 45 feet long by 35 feet wide
and 18 feet high, and was carpeted with
walrus-hides strewn over a kind of ' parquet '
of whale-skin — white and smooth to the
touch, but exuding an abominable stench, on

' This was the largest and must coml'oitabk; hut in Oumuaicljik.
All the otliLT clwt']lin;,'s wuic considerably saialler, and iiiany of
those occupied by the [luoror natives were not a quarter the size.

204

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ALASKA TO BEEING STEAITS

'^l

account of the tanning process already alluded
to. A thick curtain of deer-skin was stretched
right across the hut, separating the living room
from the sleeping quarters. The former was
surrounded by a low platform formed of beaten
earth and thickly covered with deer-skins, which
also covered the walls of the room, while the
floor was strewn with the skins of five or six
polar bears. Half a dozen seal-oil lamps are
kept incessantly alight here throughout the
winter. They Just sufiice to accentuate the per-
petual darkness and to maintain, even during
the coldest weather, a temperature of 65° Fahr.
The lamps, which diffuse a disgusting odour, are
also used for cooking purposes. When the
sleeping chamber is crowded with naked men
and women and children (as it frequently was
during the latter part of our stay), the heat
becomes almost unbearable, and the fetid odour
of unwashed humanity loathsome beyond de-
scription.

There was little inducement to take exercise
at Oumwaidjik, where one was always knee- deep
in either mud or loose shingle. I don't know

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THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

wliicli was the worse ; perhaps the mud, for it
caked hke pebbles on furs till it became almost
impossible to remove it. A sandy patch about a
hundred yards long by sixty wide, covered with
coarse wiry grass, a short distance from the
settlement, was the only place where one could
walk in comfort, but this gaol-like promenade
somewhat palled upon one after the first few
days. My preliminary inspection of Oumwaidjik
and its environs was therefore not a prol^-acted
one ; but I was accompanied throughout by
many of the poorer natives, who seemed to
regard me with much curiosity, not unmingled
with pity. They probably marvelled (and no
wonder !) that any sane being should voluntarily
expose himself to miseries and hardships that
might be avoided by staying away from their
desolate home.

The wintry sunlight was fading, and the sun
sinking like a ball of fire into the cold grey sea,
when I returned to the hut guided by the one
solitary light in the settlement that gleamed from
our window. Harding was in 'lespair, for our
tiny room was tenanted by an even larger crowd

206

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

than I had left there an hour before. Loud
and ahnost threatening- demands for tobacco
assailed me ; but I doled the latter out very
sparingly, for we had barely sufficient for our-
selves. Next to whisky, a Tchuktchi will
do anything for tobacco. The very babes
are given it, as a treat, to suck. Our visitors
were composed of the poorest, and therefore
the filthiest, portion of the community, and
exhaled a perfume that recalled their presence
for many days. Koari had not appeared on
the scene since we landed, but he presently
swaggered in, followed by two or three followers.
His entry was the signal for a general stampede
of our tormentors, who were kicked out with
scant ceremony by their chief. I was some-
what surprised to find that the latter's manner
had completely changed since the morning.
The smooth-tongued, mild-mannered Koari of
the 'Uear' was now a surly, bullying ruffian,
who evidently wished to impress his companions
with his contempt for white men as a class, and
ourselves in particular. A furtive wink, how-
ever, from one of his men reassured me ; for it

207

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i 1

THEOUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

was evidently meant to convey that our genial
host had heen indulging in more drink than he
could conveniently carry. I noted, therefore,
with some relief, that the remainder of our
visitors were, at any rate, sober. A careful
examination of our personal effects then took
place, by Koari's orders. This outrage I felt
at first strongly inclined to resent, but, knowing
the hopelessness of any argument with a drunken
man, finally submitted. Guns, revolvers, instru-
ments, books, clothing, were then tumbled out
of our bags pell-mell and closely overhauled.
Fortunately, the sight of firearms seemed to
recall our friend to his senses, especially when
assured that we were well supplied with cart-
ridges, and had (in addition to what he had
already seen) two Derringers about us. This fact
seemed to carry weight, for a peremptory shout
and tipsy wave of the hand from the great man
suddenly brought the proceedings to a close.
Our inebriated friend then seated himself on the
floor with a loud crash that shook the whole
hut, and hiccupped a hope that we found our
lodgings 'g(X)d.'

2o8

ALASKA TO BERING STiUlTS

A polite but scarcely truthful affirmative
seemed to mollify Koari, who thereupon produced
from the depths of his ' parka ' an old beer bottle
encrusted with filth and stoppered with a piece
of dirty rag. To avoid further trouble, however,
I accepted my host's pressing invitation, and
raised the vessel to my lips. The liquid it con-
tained looked, and smelt, like turpentine. A
drop which escaped by accident into my mouth
burnt my throat like vitriol, and brought on a fit
of coughing that raised the first smile I had yet
seen on the dark sullen faces of my gruesome
neighbours ; for it was the villanous spirit called
whisky by the unscrupulous Yankee traders
who barter it on this coast, and who should
be hanged for their pains. I had been told
by the officers on board the ' Bear ' that no
' Hootchinoo ' had been landed for tw^o years at
Oumwaidjik, and that there was not a glass of
the stuff in the place. They had added that no
man's life is safe for an instant in a Tchuktchi
settlement where it is procurable. I was there-
fore scarcely overjoyed when assured by Koari

209

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1
1

ii ;

THUOUGLi THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

that ' there was plenty more where this came
from.'

It was now getting on for 9 p.m., and we had
fasted for twelve hours. Our visitors showed no
signs of moving, however, but sat on chatting
among themselves and criticising our appearance
very much as we ourselves are in the habit of
doing at the Westminster Aquarium, outside the
cage of some denizen of distant lands or strange
freak of nature. Half a dozen anxious faces, too,
were flattened against the window in the dark
outside. This was one of our petty annoyances
at Oumwaidjik. For the first week we were
never alone, for to bar the door was to drive our
observers in a body to the window. At length it
occurred to me to screen the glass with the small
Union Jack destined to play so important a part
in the future, and we enjoyed, for a time, a certain
amount of seclusion.

Towards 9.30 p.m. my patience was rapidly
becoming exhausted b}^ the pangs of hunger, and I
made signs to Koari, who was now partially sober,
that we wished to partake of food, and should be
grateful if he would produce the stoj'es confided

2IO

ALASKA TO BEEING STRAITS

3ain

to his care that morning. A man was at once
despatched, ostensibly for the pur^^ose, but we
awaited his return for quite an hour. I may
here mention that we had brought supphes for
two months, consisting of tinned soups and meats,
pemmican, biscuits, tea, and other comforts,
which would have made life at any rate bearable
under the depressing circumstances. The reader
may, therefore, picture our feelings when the
messenger returned with a large piece of raw
seal-meat, reeking with oil, and nothing else.
The time had now evidently come for an
explanation, which we forthwith demanded, and
insisted that our own provisions be at once pro-
duced.

But a Tchuktchi is as tenacious as a China-
man, and as wily as a Jew. On seeing our
determined demeanour, Koari was at once full of
apologies. ' There had been some mistake — the
seal-meat was meant as a present to celebrate our
arrival — of course the stores should immediately
be sent for.' And so they were, to the extent of
twenty tins of preserved meat and soups, a little
tea, and two tins of biscuits. ' The rest,' our friend

■r

21 I

! ■ i; u

iml ,„

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

remarked, ' would be far better in his keeping ; '
and he added, signilicantly, ' Plenty bad man
Oumwaidjik — steal — kill white man — no kill —
steal Koari ! '

So saying, this wily old gentleman takes
his departure, closely followed by his hangers-
on, who are evidently grinning in their sleeves
at our discomfiture — not to say rage. Reta-
liation, even expostulation, are of course out
of the question ; but it now seems pretty clear
that we have received all w^e shall ever get of our
own provisions, find that we are in the power of
a scoundrel who, if so minded, can do away with
us without the slightest fear of detection or
punishment.

But 'hope springs eternal in the human
breast,' and a spoonful of good hot soup is some-
times better than volumes of human sympathy
and encouragement. A supper of tinned ox-
tail followed by canned beef may not sound
appetising to the dyspeptic Londoner; bat it
suffices to shed a rosier glow over our gloomy
thoughts ; so much so that despondency is
gradually succeeded by a resigned if not cheerful

212

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

confidence in the future. Indeed, a last pipe
convinces me that Koari (although somewhat
offensive under the influence of alcohol) is not,
in the main, a bad fellow. A drunken man is
never accountable for his actions, and his
anxiety to protect our property may, after all, be
only a proof that he is kindly disposed towards
ourselves. Besides, has he not assured me only
this afternoon that dogs have alreaay been sent
for, far away into the interior, to take us to
Anadyrsk within ' two moons ' ? ' This fact, at
any rate, is a distinct point in my inebriated
host's favour. The reverse side of the medal,
however, is not so pleasant, and shows me only
too plainly that life at Oumwaidjik is not going
to be a bed of roses. To-night, as I he awake
and shivering in the cold and darkness, I cannot
help recalling how a certain friend of mine in
England (who has occasionally ' roughed it ' in
a comfortable shooting-box and braved the
stormy deep in a 500-ton yacht) predicted that
this overland journey would be ridiculously
easy. ' There would be no hardships and very

' ' A moon,' a month.
213

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

little discomfort. It would be a pleasure trip —
a regular picnic,' and so forth. And as I knock
the ashes from my pipe, and dive into a sleeping-
bag to shut out the stench that pervades our
hut, I picture my friend, clad in purple and fine
linen, and dining at his ease in some luxurious
club or ghttering restaurant. And I may, per-
haps, under the circumstances, be forgiven for
wishing that, if only for a few moments, he
could lie here by my side — and appreciate the
wisdom of his prophecy.

For, as Eudyard Kipling truly remarks : —

Tlie toad beneatli the harrow knows
Exactly where each tooth point goes.
The bi;ttcrtiy upon the road
Preaches contentment to that toad !

214

ALASKA TO BEIIING STRAITS

CHAPTER X

OUMWAIDJIK

(n)

Our life, during the first few days at Oiimwaidjik,
was bearable enough. The day following our
arrival Koari atoned for his misdeeds of the
previous day by appearing at dawn with a lai-ge
piece of deer-meat— a very acceptable gift—
which lasted us for some days. The meat had
just arrived from Kee-eeni,' an island to the
north, where our host kept a small herd of
reindeer, and where his wife Siwunga, his eldest
son Oyur^pok, and a few retainers lived
throughout the summer to tend them. We found
the venison dehcious, but it was the first and
last piece we ever received ! Some more was
brought down by Siwunga when she returned
to Oumwaidjik for the winter a few weeks

' Marked ' Kajne Island ' on most nmps.

'fl ' !f|

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later, but it was almost putrid. The Tchuktchis
prefer it thus, and rarely eat it when
fresh.

Few of the coast Tchuktchis are possessed

of reindeer, but Koari had, by trading, amassed

sufficient wealth to enable him to purchase and

drive down a few hundred of these animals

from the interior. He and his family could

thus look with equanimity on a scarcity of seals

and walrus, upon which the coast tribes mainly

subsist. The usefulness of reindeer in these

Arctic deserts can scarcely be overestimated,

and is well demonstrated by the comparative

welfare enjoyed by the wandering Tchuktchis

when compared to their brethren of the sea.

Starvation and scurvy may be raging on the

coast, but inland these disasters are rendered

impossible by an abundance (thanks to the

reindeer) of clothing, meat, and milk. Mr.

George Kennan has stated that the Tchuktchis

never utilise the latter,* but this can scarcely be

correct, for perhaps a dozen deer were kept at

Oumwaidjik, and I frequently saw the operation

' See Ttnt Life in Siberia, by George Kennan.
2l6

'li 1

1 1

IV I

ALASKA TO BEEING STKAITS

of milking performed by the women — and in a
very peculiar manner. The hands are never
used, the milk being sucked from the animal and
spat into a bowl. It is rarely drunk, however,
but made into a kind of cheese and consumed
in various stages of decomposition. When a
deer is killed, nothing is wasted. Even the bones
are crushed, and the marrow, flavoured with
seal oil, is eaten raw. A cupful of this
preparation was sent to us by Koari as a
honne-houclie}

The disposal of our time at Oumwaidjik was
not an easy matter. The days dragged away
terribly slowly. We looked back to the depar-
ture of the ' Bear,' at the expiration of a week,
through an imaginary vista of many weary
months, and the remaining fifty odd days before
us became too appalling to contemplate. More

' To appreciate the varied uses of the reindeer, we need go no
farther than Lapland, which, with 400,000 deer, supplies Northern
Europe with smoked reindeer hams at (Sd, a pound, smoked tongues
at Qd. each, dried hides at &om 58. to la. each, tanned hides at
from 8s. to 128. each, and with 28,000 carcasses to the butchers' shops
in addition to what is consumed by the Lapps themselves. Reindeer
hair is largely used, on account of its buoyancy, for stuffing life-
saving apparatus, while the strongest and best glue is made from
the horns.

217

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

1 ..

1 :■

than two-thirds of the twenty-four hours were
devoted to sleep (or as much of it as we could
get), and our day commenced late in the fore-
noon, to terminate (in a sleeping-bag) at an hour
when most civilised beings are thinking about
dressing for dinner. Food (cooked by Harding
over a coal-oil stove) was partaken of twice a
day, and, though extremely limited in quantity,
was dawdled over to kill time. A fortnight
exhausted our library, and cards then became
our sole relaxation during the hour that elapsed
between the conclusion of the evening meal and
bed-time. An almost daily visitation of heavy
rain, alternating with furious gales, rendered out-
door exercise anything but attractive; but a
wholesome dread of scurvy drove us out of doors
for a couple of hours every day. We took the
opportunity on one occasion of trying to reach
the snow-clad mountains at the back of the
settlement, about five miles distant, and were
not surprised to hear, on our return, that no
native had ever succeeded in making the
journey during the summer. The distance we
travelled was probably under two miles, which

218

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

took over four hours to accomplish, and which
partly deprived us of the use of our nether limbs
for forty-eight hours afterwards. Sport would
have been some consolation, but the little there
was scarcely repaid the trouble of carrying a
gun. We managed at first to bag a few duck,
which formed a welcome addition to our menu,
but these disappeared towards the end of
September. It was not safe, either, to st.ray far
away from the settlement, on account of the
dense fogs that, even on the brightest day,
would descend as if by magic, and render objects
a few feet off quite invisible. We were hope-
lessly lost on one occasion, not a mile from the
village, and did not regain it for some hours.
Experience warned us, after a time, of the
approach of these mists, for they were usually
preceded by a curious meteorological state of the
atmosphere. A tiny sandpiper would assume
the dimensions of a large bird, and a skin
* baidar^ ' on the beach appear the size of a
good-sized vessel cast ashore by the sea.
Near the lakes we occasionally saw a few snipe
and a quantity of enormous white owls that,

219

I
•I

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

unlike the English species, appeared to be en-
dowed with sight during the day-time. One we
shot measured 4 ft. 9 in. between the wing ex-
tremities. These are considered a great delicacy
by the natives, but we found them musty and
uneatable.

During one of our rambles an incident
occurred which might have been attended with
unpleasant consequences. Harding had picked
up an old paddle on the beach — a bleached,
broken thing, that had apparently lain there
rotting for years — and used it as a walking-stick
on our return home. While passing one of the
huts, a ragged old native darted out, wrenched
the paddle from my companion's hands, and
threw it on the ground, jabbering vociferously
as he did so, and foaming with rage. A menac-
ing crowd began to assemble, and I was not
sorry to see Koari emerge from a dwelling hard
by and hurry to the scene of the disturbance.
The aged and irate gentleman in rags was, it
appeared, a ' Shaman ' or ' Medicine-man,' and
we had, according to this worthy, grossly violated
the laws of the country by desecrating a grave.

220

19B

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

Koari, to do him justice, did all he could to
appease our accuser, but seemed himself some-
what uneasy when the latter slunk back, with a
curse, into his hut. No one would touch or
even look at the paddle. Finally the chief took
Harding quietly aside, and advised him to return
at once to the spot where it was found and re-
place it. This was done notwithstanding the
darkness and a drizzling rain, for we had no
wish to cross swords with the ' Shamans,' who,
among the Tchuktchis, are all-powerful. Indeed
Koari had already told me that they strongly
resented our presence in Oumwaidjik. Seeing,
however, that a Tchuktchi is generally torn up
and devoured by the dogs within an hour of his
burial, I failed to see the object of carefully
placing his property by his side for use in
another world. One could not walk for twenty
yards in any direction at Oumwaidjik without
kicking against skulls or portions of human
skeletons that had been strewn about by these
animals. But even Koari himself, although a
shrewd, sensible man in other respects, lived
in perfect terror of the ' Shamans.' He fre-

221

' ir,

THUOUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

quently warned me of the danger of giving
them offence, and assured me of their power
to create or avert storms, and even kill men,
by the sheer exercise of their will. A Tchuktchi
is fearless enough in moments of real danger,
but is as nervous regarding his bodily ailments
as the veriest hypochondriac at Vichy or
Carlsbad. The ' Shamans,' therefore, reap
a rich harvest in the way of medical fees,
and frequently become rich in furs and whale-
bone, for money is of course unknown. The
' Shamans ' were our worst and most vindictive
enemies, their enmity being largely due to my
small medicine chest, the contents of which
were in daily demand.

The Tchuktchis are very reticent about their
religion, and when this subject was touched upon
Koari invariably changed the conversation. I
gleaned, however, that a man who dies a violent
death insures eternal happiness, but an easy
lingering dissolution is generally followed by
torment in the next world. ^ This, perhaps,

' Baron Maidel, the traveller, relates the following legend (told
him by a Tchuktchi in 1869) anent the creation of the world : —
* A Good Spirit created human beings, but the latter and their

222

■J:^

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

accounts for the cheerfulness with which a
Tchuktchi will risk his life at sea or in mortal
combat, and the terror with which a malady
(which we should consider trifling) inspires him.
But death, under any shape, is lightly looked
upon by most Tchuktchis, who seldom mourn a
lost one, even for an hour. Many perished from
starvation and other causes while we were at
Oumwaidjik. Every third day, on an average,
Koari would laughingly advise me not to walk
in a certain direction unless I wished to see a
corpse, and, when a young mother murdered her
child in an adjacent hut to ours, no more notice
was taken of the occurrence than if she had
merely chastised it.

The most weird and terrible Tchuktchi
ceremony is undoubtedly the * kamitok.' This
is the putting to death (with their free consent)

bid

Bir

posterity were very wicked. The Good Spirit, therefore, sent violent
storms over the world, by which America, Wrangel Land (in the
Arctic Ocean), and the Tchuktchi country were torn apart and the
islands and Kolyutchin Bay were formed. The tempest carried
the people in various directions, and thus formed the different races
represented to-day by the Ostiaks, Yakoutes, Tchuktchis, Eskimos,
and Russians.' ' A remarkable resemblance,' adds the author, * to
the Biblical accounts of the Deluge and the Tower of Babel I *

i/n"

THBOIIGII THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

of the ui?ed or useless members of the commu-
nity. When a Tchuktchi's powers have decreased
to an appreciable extent (from age, accident, or
disease), a family council is held and a day
fixed for the victim's departure for another
world. Perhaps the most curious feature of the
whole affair is the indifference shown by the
doomed one, who takes a lively interest in the
proceedings, and often assists in the prepara-
tions for his own death. The execution is
always preceded by a feast, where seal and
walrus meat are greedily devoured, and whisky
consumed until all are intoxicated. A sponta-
neous burst of singing and the muffled roll of
walrus-hide h-ums then herald the fatal moment.
At a given signal a ring is formed by the rela-
tives and friends, the entire settlement looking
on in the background. The executioner (usually
the victim's son or brother) then steps forward,
and, placing his right foot against the back of
the condemned, slowly strangles him to death
with a walrus-thong. A ' kamitok ' took place
during the latter part of our stay at Oum-
waidjik, but as most of the spectators had

224

death
place
Oum-
had

l-feV.

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

drunk themselves into a state of frenzy we
deemed it prudent to remain concealed until it
was over. Women are never put to death by
this means, and the origin of the custom is
as obscure as it is ancient. Its institution is
probably due to the barren nature of this land,
where every mouthful of food is precious and
where men must Hterally ' work to live.'

According to Captain Healey (late commander
of the ' Bear'), the ' kamitok ' is practised, under
another name, by the Eskimo tribes inhabiting
the Alaskan shores of the Arctic Ocean. The
following anecdote will show that the Alaskan
Eskimo looks upon death with as little indiffer-
ence as his Siberian neighbour. Captain Healey
after a year's absence from the Arctic, inqaired
of an Eskimo near Point Barrow whether one

* Charhe,' an old native he had known the
previous year, was still alive and in good health.

* Oh no ! ' was the cool reply ; ' Charlie's dead. I
killed him.' * Killed him ? ' inquired Healey,
taken aback ; ' what for ? ' * Oh, poor Charhe
was very sick with pains all over, and asked me

225 Q

THEOUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

to shoot him. And I did so with his own gun,
which he gave me to keep afterwards ! '

Evil spirits apparently predominate in the
Tchuktohi religion, and all the ceremonies we
saw performed appeared to be of a propitiatory
nature. When a long sfea voyage was contem-
plated, the Shamans would precede the departure
of its crew by strange antics on the beach pre-
sumably for the purpose of insuring fine weather.
I noticed, however, that on these occasions it
generally blew harder than usual. A mountain
at the back of the settlement was spoken of
by Koari with bated breath, as the abode of
devils, and I was gravely informed that any one
approaching it within a certain distance was
seized, and strangled, by invisible hands. Even
the poorest natives weie sometimes seen casting
pieces of seal-meat (which they could ill spare)
into the waves, not only to avert storms, but also
to induce their gods to send them food in the
shape of bear or walrus ; for the practice was
continued long after the ice had come down, and
when there was but little open water.

The yearly catch at Oumwaidjik generally

226

'i^ii-mif,-.

IF
gun,

[1 the
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iatory
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arture
1 pre-
sather.
ons it
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ken of
ode of
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e was
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asting
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ut also
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and

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If:!

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

averages from two to three whales, twenty to
thirty walrus, and any number of hair-seals,
which latter form the staple food of the
Tchuktchi, and provide him with the garments
for his nether limbs. The hair-seal must not be
confounded with the fur-seal (which is seldom if
ever found north of the Pribilov Islands in
Bering Sea) ; but although the skin of the former
is practically worthless, the flesh is far preferable
as an article of food to that of the more valuable
animal. Indeed it is not at all bad eating, after
a time, though somewhat too oily at first for a
white man's taste. The fur of the hair-seal is a
kind of dirty grey flecked with dark spots, and
is short and bristly. It is warm and durable,
and therefore well adapted for breeches and foot-
wear ; for in these latitudes it is of course im-
possible to wear boots of European make and
material. The hair-seal is found in immense
numbers between Greenland and Labrador, where
an average of 300,000 are taken every season,
chiefly on account of the oil ; for, as I have said,
the skins have little or no commercial import-
ance in the European and American markets.

227 %))

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

Hair-seals are shot nearly every day at
Oumwaidjik throughout the winter, and a
Tchuktchi takes up a rifle and goes out for one
very much as we in England go out, for amuse-
ment, for a brace of birds. But walrus are very
much scarcer, and their capture involves a
considerable amount of trouble and skill, to say
nothing of danger. The beach was lined night
and day by the poorer natives, who eke out
a miserable existence by watching for these
animals and giving notice of their approach. As
soon as one appeared within reasonable distance,
four or five ' baidaris ' were at once launched
(for the small ' kayak ' is never used here), and
set out at a terrific pace ; for the crew of the
first boat up gets the lion's share of the spoil.
The old-fashioned harpoon is now discarded for
the Winchester rifle, so that accidents are rare,
although a boat is sometimes upset. The
walrus is a disgusting brute to look at — a distorted,
shapeless mass of discoloured flesh, covered in
places with many bristles. The one we saw
brought ashore measured about 10 feet long and
had quite that girth. It looked to weigh at least

228

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A TCHUKTL'Ul's liKTUHN' KliOM SEAL-SHOOTING THK HAY's 11A(}

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< il

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

a ton. Walrus-meat is absolutely sickening, but
the Tchuktchis devour it greedily, both cooked

and raw.

These animals may be heard blowing a
long distance off, and in foggy weather have
many a time saved a ship by their timely warning
of the proximity of land. Notwithstanding their
huge bulk and formidable tusks, they are shy,
wary animals, and we were directed by Koari to
carefully screen our lamp at night for fear of
driving them away from the coast. Anent this,
Elliott relates that they resort to a very singular
method of keeping guard when sleeping on land
or on drifting floes. The explorer writes :—

' In this herd of three or four hundred male
walrus that were beneath my vision, though
nearly all were sleeping, yet the movement of one
would disturb the other, which would raise its
head in a stupid manner for a few moments, grunt
once or twice, and before lying down to sleep
again it would strike the slumbering form of its
nearest companion with its tusks, causing that
animal to rouse up in turn for a few moments
also, grunt, and pass the blow on to the next lying

229

'1 :11

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

i I

down in the same manner. Thus the word
was transferred, as it were, constantly and
unceasingly around, always keeping some one or
two aroused, which consequently were more
alert than the rest.'

The same traveller's graphic description of
the walrus coincides with my own impressions.
' Sitting as I did ' (he writes) ' to the leeward
of them, with a strong wind blowing in at the
same time from seaward, which, ever and anon,
fairly covered many of them with foaming surf
spray, therefore they took no notice of me during
the three or more hours of my study. I was
first astonished at observing the raw, naked
appearance of the hide. It was a skin covered
with multitudes of pustular-looking warts and
large boils or pimples, without hair or fur save
scattered and almost invisible hairs ; it was
wrinkled in deep, flabby seam folds and marked
by dark red venous lines, which showed out in
strong contrast through the thicker and thinner
yellowish brown cuticle that in turn seemed to
be scaling off in places as if with leprosy ; indeed,
a fair expression of this walrus-hide complexion,

230

ftih

ALASKA T0 5BERING STRAITS

if I may use the term, can be understood by the
inspection of the human countenances in the
streets and on the highways of our cities which
are designated as the faces of "bloats." '

As the reader may, therefore, imagine, a
minute examination of the * ayivak ' ^ did not
tend to increase the appetite, or arouse any desire
to partake of the flesh of this animal, although
a quantity of it was invariably placed at our
disposal after a ' kill.'

Were it not for seal and walrus, however, the
Tchuktchi race would in a very few years be
entirely extinct. It is not easy to picture a spot
so utterly desolate that even drinldng water is
scarce and brackish, and vegetation is repre-
sented by seaweed on the shore and a few tufts
of wiry grass ; but this is the case at Oumwaidjik.
On the Alaskan shore poppies, daisies, and
anemones bloom luxuriantly throughout the
summer, and I counted no less than twenty
kinds of wild flowers within a radius of a
mile from St. Michael. The flowers were poor
scentless things, but imparted an air of gaiety to

' Tchuktohi, 'walrus.'

TIIKOUGII THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

' '

il^iiliEi^

Tfi

the landscape^that one may seek in vain on the
gloomy fog-laden coast of North-eastern Siberia.
It was curious to note how their sterile surround-
ings had developed the inventive faculties of the
Tchuktchis. Wood is entirely lacking, save
when the timbers of some wrecked whaler are
washed up by the sea ; but whalebone clHciently
replaces it for beams and supports for the huts,
while seal oil and broken deer bones are used as
fuel. Walrus-hides are substituted as timber
for boats and the walls and roofs of buildings ;
thongs, made of the same material, form strong
serviceable ropes ; the skin of the hair-seal
supplies clothing and shoe leather, and so on,
ad ififinitum ; but there is scarcely an article in
daily nse which does not owe its origin to one
of those three useful animals : the deer, the
walrus, or the seal. Nothing is wasted, which
is perhaps scarcely surprising in a region where
there is so little to waste.

The reader will no doubt ask, 'How can
these people mauage to exist at all under such
miserable conditions, especially the poorer por-
tion of the community ? ' 1 can only reply that I

232

•seal
on,

le in
one
the
lich
lere

•J

n \

"y — — —

ALASKA TO BEKING STRAITS

have never seen the principle of ' the survival of
the fittest ' more graphically portrayed than at
Oumwaidjik. The poorer class suffer there in the
same degree that they do in London or Paris,
probably more so, for parochial relief does not
as yet enter into the Tchuktchi method of
government. Koari and another man (whose
inferior position, as compared to the chief, was
demonstrated by the middl and little fingers of
the latter) had collected a stock of flour (to say
nothing of our own stores !) that placed them
beyond the reach of actual starvation. This
they had done by trading furs and whalebone
with the San Francisco whalers and receiving
in exchange flour, molasses, caHco, Winches-
ter rifles, ammunition, tobacco, and whisky.
Koari's deer would have sufficed to feed the
whole settlement for a year, but that wily old
chief would sooner have lost his eyesight than
part with a pound of venison without adequate
payment. His greed and obduracy were a byword
among the poorer natives, who could of course
afford none of the aforementioned luxuries. They
v/ere repaid for many weary hours of walrus-

233

'.'i

I' . ■ I i

, LI

THEOUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

watching at all seasons, and in all weathers, by
scraps of noisome food, cast-off raiment, and (very
rarely) a tiny screw of tobacco, and lived, so far
as we could see, to a large extent on raw seaweed.
A species of the latter that I frequently saw them
eating was of a red colour, and, in shape, some-
thing like a large radish. It contained a soft
greenish pulp with a sickly fishy flavour. But
these poor starving wretches would eat almost
anything. One day I threw a piece of putrid
deer-meat to the dogs, and a walrus-watcher who
happened to be standing by rushed forward and
devoured it before my very eyes. A dead dog was
invariably skinned and its hide used for clothing
at Oumwsidjik, but the carcass was seldom
allowed to lie long upon the ground. I have seen
men and dogs fighting, on more than one occa-
sion, for the ghastly meal. It is terrible to think
of the sufferings these poor people must undergo
during the long dark winter, and I was therefore
surprised to learn from Koari that, notwithstand-
ing his almost unbearable existence, a Tchuktchi
pauper is rarely driven to take his own life.

23 +

'nI

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

CHAPTER XI

OUMWAIDJIK

(III)

The first days of October were ushered in by
bright clear weather, and fogs and raw humidity
were ow succeeded by a dry intense cold which
we found infinitely preferable. Snow now
covered the ground to the depth of several
inches, and the ice had made its first appearance
in the Straits as early as September 20. The
floes were loose and drifting, however, and quickly
dispersed by strong winds, for soHd sea ice only
forms here towards the end of October. We
were now favoured, nearly every day, with sun-
shine and a Mediterranean sky, which would
have brightened a less dreary spot, but only
intensified the hideous squalor of Oumwaidjik.
I ha^/e seldom, however, experienced more per-
fect weather in any part of the world, and the

235

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

( I )

I •';

his'

pure delicious air seemed to inspire one with
new life. It also made one ravenously hungry,
which, under the circumstances, was rather a
drawback ; for Koari was adamant as regards our
stores, and neither threats nor entreaties would
induce him to dole out more than a couple of
tins of preserved meat a day — little enough for
two hungry men. There was, however, plenty
of seal-meat to be had, and to this we gradually
became accustomed ; but it was galling enough to
think of the good things hidden away so near
us, and the filthy food we were compelled to eat.
We searched, at first, high and low, to try to
discover where the old scoundrel had hidden our
provisions, and only ascertained towards the
latter part of our stay that they had been care-
fully buried the day after our arrival.*

But this glorious weather during the first
week in October atoned for many evils, and the
knowledge that nearly a month of our period of
probation had passed away enabled us almost to
enjoy outdoor exercise. Bering Straits, on still

' A part of our stores was recovered by the United States
Kevenue cutter Bear during the summer of 1897. Koari had tied
into the interior.

o -< A

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

clear days, would be covered with floating ice,
and present the appearance of a vast white plain,
with here and there a lake of sapphire where the
floes had broken away. A fusillade of rifles
was generally kept up all day by the sealers, and
bullets at times whistled unpleasantly close ; for
the Tchuktchi shoots at random, and in all
directions, utterly regardless of consequences.
At other times a gale of wind would spring up
in the night and carry the ice far away, so that
by morning a summer sea would again ripple
lazily at our feet, until a sohtary berg would
come sailing down again from the Arctic, spark-
ling, hke an enchanted island, in the sunshine,
and heralding the return of the pack. The
latter, towards sunset, would present a marvel-
lous variety of colour, ranging from dazzling white
to the tenderest shades of amber, rose, and tur-
quoise, which, towards evening, deepened to
violet and grey, and gradually merged into dense
mist as night fell and froze the stars into a sky
of inky black. I often Hngered, cold as it was,
after dark to watch the constellations burning^
like great lamps, in the clear rarefied atmosphere ;

237

iip)ii"P"«^^"'^iwi!w^w""^iwr-

! •

:|iri

(%*•

if:y

THEOUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

the Great Bear sprawling his awkward shape
overhead, the little Pole-star twinkling dimly
among the greater lights, and the beautiful
Pleiades glittering far away like a cluster of
brilliants against a patch of dark velvet.

Occasionally, however, the heavens would
suddenly become overcast, and the bright sunlit
landscape darken so suddenly that one barely
had time to run for shelter before a furious
hurricane, accompanied by sleet or rain, was
sweeping over the settlement. The coming
winter showed its teeth on October 3 with a
furious ' poorga ' (as the storm-laden gales of
North-E astern Siberia are called), and gave us a
graphic foretaste of what we might expect later
on. On these occasions the Straits, though a
dream of placid beauty in fine weather, were not
pleasant to look upon. The deafening roar of
the surf rendered sleep impossible, and our hut
was violently shaken by every billow that broke
upon the beach at least two hundred yards distant.
I have never seen such enormous breakers, and
I often lay awake throughout the night fully
expecting that the waters would overwhelm us

238

■HMMM

ALASKA TO BEEING STRAITS

before morning. During stormy weather it was
a common occurrence for sea-birds to be caught
unawares on the crest of a huge wave and dashed
to pieces against the rocky shore, where natives
were generally on the look-out to secure them for
food. I have seen gulls plucked of their plumage,
there and then, and devoured raw and still warm
by the poor walrus-watchers, who were thus en-
abled to obtain a few hours' respite from the hard
labour for life to which fate has condemned them.
But even the more prosperous Tchuktchis
are by no means idle. One may euter their huts
at any hour of the day and yet find them usefully
employed. The men are generally out fishing or
hunting all day during the summer months, but
the women will be busily engaged cooking and
sewing, or cleaning and pohshing spears and
firearms. Some of their needlework was really
very fine. The patterns were graceful and in-
tricate, and the blending of colours, in many
cases, distinctly artistic.

Great excitement was caused on October 5
by the arrival of Koari's wife and family from
Kee-eeni Island. Five 'baidar^s,' loaded down

239

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

'■ '

to the water's edge with putrid deer-meat, were
first unloaded. A meal was then discussed in
the centre of an admiring crowd on the beach.
After, the party proceeded en masse to our hut,
most of them slightl}' (but luckily genially) under
the influence of liquor. It was a dull, wet day,
and the Kee-eeni men were clad in garments
made of walrus entrails (which I had not seen
before) to keep out the rain. They are as light
as a featiier and quite waterproof. One man
wore a jacket composed entirely of the breasts
of eider ducks, which had a marvellously pretty
effect. These are made only on St. Lawrence
Island, the largest island in Bering Sea, which
lies about forty miles south-east of Oumwaidjik.
On a clear day it was plainly visible.

Koari's wife, Siwunga, was a short, stout old
lady, of about sixty years of age, with the most
evil countenance I ever beheld. She was ac-
companied by two girls— Tingana, a daughter,
and Mouga, the wife of Noo-oona, Koari's
second son. Oyurapok, the hope of Koari's
house, was a sulky, stupid fellow, whom I mis-
trusted, and with reason, from the first ; but

240

M f

^1 I

ALASKA TO SEEING STRAITS
Noo-oona was, with the exception of his father
the most civilised and intelhgent Tchuktchi with
whom we can,e in contact. His wife Mouga,
although only seventeen years old, was a year
h.s senior; but Tingana, a girl about the same
age, was as yet „ ,married-as a matter of fact,
there is no recognised marriage ceremony among
these people. A man may have as many so-called
^ives as he chooses, provided he can afford to
buy them and keep them. Koari had restricted
himself to one, and on one occasion I inquired
he reason of this moderation. <Me no want
two,' was the reply. < One wife good speak, all
same Koari; but two wife plenty speak-me
afraid ! '

Tingana and Mouga were distinctly pretty
with fair complexions, pearly teeth, and soft dark
eyes, that for a wonder were unmarred by a dirty
face. Nearly all Tchuktchi girls have wonderful
teeth, but those of the older women are generally
worn down nearly to the gums by the constant
chewing of seal and walrus hides. This is done to
render the latter pliable for working into boots and
other articles ; but this operation is considered

241

TlIliOUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

'If? ;

derogatory to the dignity of the men. A tliird
girl, who had for some time remained in the
background, was roughly dragged before us by
Oyurapok, and laughingly introduced as a fellow-
stranger in the land. This fact, indeed, was
evident at a glance. Tikara was nmch taller and
more swarthy than the little maidens of Oum-
waidjik, who appeared to regard her with a pity
not devoid of contempt. Her long dark plaits
were completely encased (not entwined) in blue,
white, and yellow beads, and she wore an ill-made
linen garment in place of the neat fur dress worn
by her companions. The poor girl was a native
of the Diomede Islands — three barren, rocky islets
situated almost midway between the easternmost
point of Asia and Cape Prince of Wales. ^ She had

i,>

' ' Cape Prince of W^ales, which forms the extreme narrowing of
Berring Straits, is a high rugged promontory with walls on the
south side that are abrupt precipices of a full thousand feet, while
the uplands rise, culmumtiiig in a snowy crown that is twenty-five
hundred feet above the level of the sea. Deep gulches seam these
vertical walls, and are the paths of numerous tiny rivulets that
trickle and run in cascades down from the spongy moorlands above.
When, however, you stand into the Straits, homeward bound from
the Arctic Ocean, this cape on that side presents a wholly different
outline. It slopes up gradually from the beaches, and presents the
appciirance of a tundra gently rising to a small ridge-like summit.
This lowland on the north side is projected under the sea for a

242

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

been enticed from her home by the rascally mate
of a small trading schooner, who had promised
to take her to San Francisco, but had landed her
alone and friendless at Oumvvaidjik, where she
was perhaps less acquainted with the dialect than
we ourselves. Siwunga had, however, taken pity
upon her helpless condition, and received her, in
a meiiial capacity, into her own household.

It seemed strange tha c a native of a place only
about a hundred miles distant should be unable
to converse with the Oumwaidjik people ; but I
learnt from Koari that there are many dialects
spoken on the Siberian shores of Bering Straits.
The languages of the Alaskan Eskimo and
Siberian Reindeer and coast natives not un-
naturally differ, but there are also dialects
peculiar to small settlements almost as dissimilar
to the Tchuktchi tongue as French is to English.
For example, at Oumwaidjik the word ' kamiyak '

distance of over eight miles in a northerly direction, making an
exceedingly dangerous shore, and justly di-eadeil hy the mariner.

' The Siberian side and opposite headland is the bold and lofty
East Cape, and is connected with the mainland by a low neck of
rolling tundra, which is characteritilic of Cape I'riiice of Wales also.
Both of these outposts of two mi/hty continents present, at a small
distance, the resemblance of islands.' — Elliott.

243

E 2

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

!■: I

signifies a sleigh and * kamit ' snow. At
Tcherenuk, a settlement not twentv miles off to
the north-west, snow is called ' pingaigen ' and a
sleigh ' orogosh.' The inhabitants of the two
places can only converse by signs.

It was pretty clear from my host's subdued
manner in her presence that Siwunga, to use a
vulgar term, wore the breeches in the Koari
'menage.' For a few days I cherished the idea
that we might win over the old lady to our side,
and thereby accomplish two objects : the re-
covery of our stores, and the hastening of our
departure for Anadyrsk. But although Siwunga
spoke not a word of English, her unfriendly
demeanour and sour looks speedily shattered
my hopes, and convinced me that we now had
two enemies, instead of one, to deal with. I
should perhaps say three, for the lout Oyurapok,
a few days after his arrival, burst open the
padlocked door of our hut, and swaggered in co
inquire, in an impudont tone, 'if we were not
afraid of our lives with so many Tchuktchis
around us.' The insult was evidently intentional,
but the cool reply that Englishmen feared nothing,

244

.^V.±:

ALASKA TO BEEING STEAITS

and that if anything befell us he, and every man
in Oumwaidjik, would be killed by our country-
men before the next year had expired, seemed
to quell this offensive youth's ardour, and he left
the hut, to return no more for many days, much
to Noo-oona's delight, who was watching the
proceedings from outside. There was httle love
lost between the brothers, for Noo-oona was a
quiet, well-mannered lad, who to the last re-
mained our firm friend and ally. He would
spend hours with us trying to master a few
words of English which I taught him, and thus
myself managed to pick up a smattering of the
Tchuktchi language. The latter is harsh and
guttural, and, for a stranger, almost impossible
to pronounce with accuracy. ^ But Noo-oona
soon became more proficient than his father in
the EngHsh tongue, and when we left Oumwaid-
jik could talk quite fluently. He possessed,
however, brains far above the average, for the
majority of the natives here were of the lowest
grade of intelligence, and could no more realisu
the appearance of a great city or large concourse

' See Appendix H.
245

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

! (■

•

■

III

of people than we can — space. Other natives
would invariably look at pictures shown them
upside down, but Noo-oona not only avoided this
mistake, but contrived to make, without assist-
ance, a very fair sketch of a ship (which is here
reproduced) on the back of a playing card that
we gave him.

Noo-oona was a famous athlete, and was
generally to be found every afternoon in the
village playground, a large ring in the centre of
the settlement formed by shingle from the beach,
stamped into the marshy ground, and devoted
to wrestling, running, jumping, and other sports.
Most of the games were distinguished by rough
horseplay, notably a kind of 'Blind Man's Buff,'
from which a lad would sometimes return badly
disabled ; and another game, when one of the
players was flogged with walrus thongs until he
yelled, in sober earnest, for mercy. Noo-oona
informed us that an athletic contest is held here
yearly, which is attended by many of the natives
from neighbouring settlements. The sports last
several days, and, as large quantities of whisky
are consumed on this occasion, I was relieved

246

N w

OHIOINAL DRAWING OF A STEAM WHALER BY A TCHUKTCHI nOY, AGKI) 1()
(Drawn on Ihe hack of a / Inuitnj eaid yireii In him lnj Ihe Anl/ior)

' .'''.'*.

ALASKA TO BEEING STRAITS

to hear that they would not again be held until
the following summer. The Tchuktchis are
generally slim, wiry, and extremely powerful,
and I have seen a boy fourteen years old
pick up a 100-lb. sack of flour and walk away
with it with ease. The men are generally fair
in their methods of fighting among themselves.
Knives are rarely used in disputes, which are
generally settled with fists ; but they have little
idea of sparring, and there is no science what-
ever about their boxing. They are, however,
marvellous marksmen, and as expert with a rifle
as with spear or harpoon, while mere children
' hought nothing of bringing down a bird thirty
yards off with a stone thrown from a walrus-hide
sling.

Mouga and Tingana were kind merry Httle
souls, and they and Noo-oona were certainly our
best friends during that dreary time. Some-
times they would sing and dance for our amuse-
ment — especially when they saw us more de-
pressed than usual. Their dancing was not
graceful. It consisted of turning round and
round on the same spot, and slowly swaying the

247

! I

THKOUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

■V

upper part of the body after the manner of the
' Dance du Ventre.' Singing and a fish-skin
tambourine beaten by Noo-oona furnished the
music, which was monotonous and utterly devoid
of harmony. Their voices were too excruciating,
and as shrill and harsh as an unoiled crank ; but,
like most amateurs of limited powers, they re-
quired little pressing, and often sang me fairly
out of the hut and into the snow outside. The
intervals between song and dance were generally
devoted to the consumption of tobacco, and it
seemed strange to see the two girls place a plug
in their pretty mouths and chew away with all
the nonchalance and complacency of an old
* Shell-back.' The conversation, so far as the
ladies were concerned, was not spirited. It
chiefly consisted of deep-drawn sighs occasionally
varied by the whispered ' Ho-ho ' which a Tchuk-
tchi employs to express satisfaction with his
entertainer and surroundings. Afternoon tea
was sometimes brought to us by Tikara in the
shape of cold water and flour mixed into a kind
of paste in a vessel of walrus-hide. Oddly
enough the Tchuktchis, though very partial to the

248

ALASKA TO BEEING STRAITS

bread they occasionally get from whalers, are
unaware that it is made with an ingredient that
enters so largely into their trading operations-
flour. The women of this race must be as hardy
as the men. Both Tingana and Mouga would
often leave my hut streaming with perspiration,
and upon reaching the open air strip naked to
the waist, although snow might be falling and
the temperature register only a few degrees above
zero. And yet pulmonary diseases are rare among
the Tchuktchis, where the death-rate is chiefly
due to scurvy and the diseases attending insuffi-
cient nourishment. Epidemics are practically
unknown on the Siberian coast, although small-
pox decimates whole settlements among the
Eskimo.^

The Tchuktchis are frightened to death by a
* Kodak.' It was only with the greatest care and
difficulty that I managed to secure snapshots
of the women when the latter were quite un-
aware of my presence or intention. Noo-oona
affected an indifference when posing which was

1838

' The scourge was first brought to Alaska by the Russians in

249

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

hi; 'i

f i-i^

clearly assumed, and I questioned him closely
regarding the strange antipathy evinced by his
people towards the photographic apparatus.
The lad feigned ignorance at first, but finally
admitted that the ' Shamans ' had always warned
him against sitting for his picture, which, they
averred, would be carried far away across the
seas and probably be lost. In this case Noo-
oona's destruction, body and soul, would surely
and rapidly follow. T ;nanaged, however, to re-
assure my young friend (who, to do him justice,
was not an ardent disciple of ' Shamanism '), and
afterwards sent him a couple of his own photo-
graphs by the first whaler from San Francisco
in the spring of 1897. I doubt, however, whether
Noo-oona ever received these, for the ship by
which they were despatched is now (Jan. 1898)
hard and fast in the pack 70 miles north of Point
Barrow, with a crew of forty doomed men ; and
Koari and his family had probably left Oum-
waidjik for the interior before the * Belvedere ' ^

* Most of the photographs of Tchuktchis that appear in this
vohime were taken by an officer of the Kevemxe cutter ' Bear,'
during her vearly patrol criiisf of 1894.

250

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

touched these on her way north to the Arctic
Ocean and — destruction.'

The dayhght was fast leaving us. By
October 6 we were Hving by lampHght quite
eighteen hours out of the twenty-four. We had
up till this time kept a bright look-out for the
Andr^e Polar balloon, which we should have
greeted with open arms ; but I think we should
have welcomed anybody if they only brought
some decent food and a screw of smokable
tobacco, for our supply of the latter was now almost
exhausted. Talking of Herr Andr^e, a rather
amusing incident occurred here connected with
his aerial expedition. While in New York we
had been furnished by an American Geographical
Society with a number of handbills, bearing a
picture of the balloon and its occupants, for
distribution among the Tchuktchis of Arctic
Siberia. The bills were intended to prepare the
natives for the aeronaut's advent, and to prevent
any attack upon him caused by enmity or fear.
I gave aw^ay, at Oumwaidjik, about a hundred
of these leaflets, and one day saw a Tchuktchi

' See Appendix I.
251

i i

THEOUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

b ' i

f Ji,

V'l >

youth (celebrated for his skill as a marksman)
intently studying the picture of the balloon. I
asked him (in his own language) what he would
do if he saw it suddenly appear in the sky.
' Shoot it, of course ! ' was the immediate reply.
I fear, therefore, that the well-meant efforts of
the American geographers have been in vain (so
far as North-Eastern Siberia is concerned), and
can only trust that if, as I sincerely hope, the
' Eagle ' and its intrepid inmates have crossed
the Pole in safety, they may have given Oum-
waidjik and its adjacent settlements a wide
berth.

Two days after the above occurrence, or on
October 8, the miserable monotony of our life
was, for a few hours, relieved. Four polar bears
— a mother and three cubs — were carried down
on an ice floe from the Arctic, and washed ashore
not three hundred yards from our hut. The
whole village — men, women, children, and dogs
— turned out, and a really exciting chase re-
sulted in the shooting of the bears. They were
then borne in triumph to Koari's house. Here
their jaws were prised open with bits of seal-bone,

252

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

and their mouths adorned with beads and strips
of bright-coloured cloth. This is done to give
the slain animal an air of gaiety, and thereby
appease the evil spirit that may come to avenge
its death. A ' Shaman ' performed the operation.
Bear-flesh was a very pleasant change in our
daily menu, but the allowance sent to us by
Koari was very limited.

Polar bears are common enough around
Oumwaidjik during the winter, and the year pre-
ceding our visit a woman was fiercely attacked
by one of the brutes which was prowling around
her hut at night-time. The animal mauled her
severely about the scalp and shoulders; but,
although nearly dead from fright and loss of
blood, she eventually recovered. Bears are
plentiful enough here, but there is an island
far south of this, in Bering Sea, where they swarm
like rats in a sewer. St. Matthew's Island is
uninhabited by natives, but a winter's sojourn
there would not only afford rare sport, but prob-
ably prove extremely remunerative to any one
bold and hardy enough to undertake it. The
following description of a comparatively recent

253

!' I

TFTROUGH THE GOLD-FIRLDS OF

'r I

visit to this island by the explorer Elliott may,
therefore, perhaps tempt some ardent sportsman
to abandon India and Africa for a season, and
try his luck (as I believe a party of Russians did
a year or two ago) on this lone'.y, ice-girt hunting-
ground.

' xVn old Russian record p' pared us, on land-
ing, to find bears here ; but it did not cause us
to be equal to the sight we saw, for we met bears
— yea, hundreds of them. I was going to say
that I saw bears here as I had seen seals to the
south, but that, of course, will not do, unless as
a mere figure of speech. During the nine days
that we were busy in surveying this island we
never were one moment, while on land, out of
sight of a bear or bears ; their white forms in the
distance always answered to our search, though
they ran from our innnediate presence with a
wild celerity, travelling in a swif shambling
gallop, or trotting off like elep^ Whether

due to the fact that they wer( ^ed with food,
or that the warmer weather of summer subdued
their temper, we never could cause one of these
animals to show light. Its first impulse, and its

254

-I

'■\

i I-'

n.»

ALASKA TO BEEING STEAITS

last one, while within our influence, was flight —
males, females, and cubs — all, when surprised by
us, rushing with one accord right, left, and in
every direction, over the hills and far away.

' After shooting half a dozen we destroyed no
more, for we speedily found that we had made
their acquaintance at the height of their shedding
season, and their snowy and highly prized winter
dress was a very different article from the dingy,
saffron-coloured, greyish fur that was flying Hke
downy feathers in the wind, whenever rubbed or
pulled by our hands. They never growled, or
uttered any sound whatever, even when shot or
wounded. We could not have observed less than
two hundred and fifty or three hundred of these
animals while we were there. At our landing on
Hall Island (a small islet close to St. Matthew)
there were sixteen in full sight at one sweep of
our eyes, scampering up and off from the approach
of the ship's boat.'

The long weary nights and darkening days
would have been bad enough to endure without
additional anxiety from other causes ; but we
were now menaced by a danger that after sun-

255

^H|I?M

}

I V'

(

lip

;

^■[f 1 'l

ii||i|iii!

^ij,' 1 ; .'

Hi ■

■ I'll- iiK III "1 .'■;•

i ii ii

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THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

down, and sometimes before, entailed constant
vigilance. One night we were sleeping
soundly, tired out after a hard day's seal
shooting, when the door of our hut was burst
open with a crash that sent the padlock flying,
and Oyurapok, his face streaming with blood,
staggered into the room. A deep cut over the
head had evidently sobered him, but the man
was still in an advanced state of intoxication.
When able to speak (for he was breathless with
running), Oyurapok told us that he had been set
upon by the friends of a man whom he had killed
the winter before, and who, had he not escaped,
would undoubtedly have murdered him. Cour-
age was clearly not this man's strong point, for
he trembled like a leaf as I gave him a drink of
water, and then walked to the door of the hut
to try to replace the broken staples and bar out
objectionable visitors. Just outside, to my sur-
prise, Tingana and Mouga were crouching close
against the wall, pale as ghosts and shaking
with terror ; but, as I was about to address them,
the loud report of a rifle sent them scuttering
like little rabbits into my hut, where Oyurapok

256

[

nstant
eeping
8 seal
1 burst
flying,
blood,
vev the
le man
ication.
ss with
Deen set
.d killed
escaped,
Cour-
oint, for
drink of
the hut
bar out
my sur-
ng close
shaking
ss them,
uttering
)yurapok

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

was ruefully bathing his swollen and disfigured
countenance. To my great relief, Noo-oona pre-
sently rushed in and explained the situation.
Koari and some friends who had come in that
day from a neighbouring village had drunk
themselves into a state of frenzy, during which a
Winchester rifle had been seized by one of his
boon companions and discharged at the chief's
head, happily missing him, but grazing a woman's
arm. Noo-oona (who never indulged in whisky)
begged us to extinguish the lamp, which had
been relit on Oyurapok's entry, and remain per-
fectly silent. Thus we listened for some
moments of painful suspense, when the sound of
angry voices was again raised, and a second
shot rang through the darkness. Oyur^pok and
his brother then rushed back to Koari 's hut,
leaving the women to our care. Half an hour
later Noo-oona returned with the welcome
tidings that no harm had been done, and that
quiet had been restored, the proceedings having
terminated with the helpless insensibility of his
father, mother, and all their guests. We did
not, however, feel much inclined for sleep until

257 S

: I

THEOUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

i .1

i .,' :

r T'

r ^ I'

daybreak, and, as a repetition of this performance
(without the shooting) took place the following
night, it was agreed to set a watch for the future,
and rest by turns. This, indeed, was only the
first of many drinking-bouts that took place
before our rescue. Noo-oona informed us that
one of Koari's guests had suggested rifling us
while we slept, for white men always carried
gold. Meeting this worthy next morning look-
ing very sheepish and evidently suffering from
severe headache, I deputed Noo-oona to inform
him that he would find plenty of lead whenever he
cared to pay us a visit, but that we were for
the present unprovided with the precious metal,
which was, in fact, the truth. We carried
only Eussian rouble notes, which are, like other
paper money, useless to a Tchuktchi.

A Tchuktchi when drunk is more like a fiend
than a human being. Our only safeguard at
Oumwaidjik lay in the fact that the poorer
portion of the community could not afford to buy
whisky, and these men protected us, more or less,
from the attacks of their drunken neighbours.
Tingana and Mouga, too, always warned us

258

Drmance
ollowing
e future,
only the
3k place

us that
ifling us
3 carried
ing look-
ing from
:o inform
enever he

were for
)us metal,
e carried
like other

ke a fiend
eguard at
le poorer
3rd to buy
ore or less,
eighbours.
earned us

ALASKA TO BERING STEAITS

when an orgie was about to take place, and
latterly we concealed ourselves in some friendly
hut until it was over. Noo-oona, too, would have
been a firm ally in case of need, and as we were
well armed there was in reality but little to fear.

The dangerous character of the Tchuktchi
when under the influence of drink is shown by
the experiences of Captain Cogan, a well-known
whaling skipper, who spent a winter among these
people in St. Lawrence Bay, a short distance
north of Oumwaidjik, on his ship the ' Kohola,' a
few years ago. I am able, thanks to Mr. Aldrich,
of New Bedford, Mass., to give the captain's story
in his own words. He says : —

* I came up as first mate to the Arctic in the
whaler " Kohola " of Honolulu, to winter under
the charge of Captain Brummerhoff. We win-
tered about a quarter of a mile from the northern
shore, in St. Lawrence Bay, Siberia. Soon after
we anchored the sailors went ashore, stole some
whisky from a native hut, got drunk, and came
aboard resolved to take the ship. The Tchuktchi
from whom they stole the liquor came aboard
afterwards, and remained two or three days.

I
i

259

-^r^

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

• ii

UK:

v; n

\ ;|.

Meanwhile a strong gale sprang up. Some of
the sailors jokingly told the native that they had
seen the wind carry off his hut and destroy
everything. This set the fellow crazy, and he
insisted upon going ashore. We knew that it
would be quite impossible to land him, and tried
in vain to dissuade him from his purpose ; but
one day, w^hile we were at dinner, he jumped
overboard and started to swim ashore. I threw
a line to him, but he brushed it away and made
for the land. He had almost reached it, when he
encountered young ice, lost his strength, and was
drow^ned, his body never being seen again. After
the gale subsided, his father and his two brothers
came aboard to inquire for him. I, as mate, told
them the truth ; but the sailors, who sought
revenge on the captain for fancied wrongs, told
the Tchuktchis that the captain had stabbed
their relative and thrown his body into the sea.
They believed this, and ignored my story, and
also told the captain that, if they ever caught
him ashore, they would immediately kill him.

* Shortly after this I got together a dog-team
and made some little expeditions, two to East

260

S OF

Some of
they had
I destroy
■f, and he
^ that it
and tried
pose ; but
e jumped
I threw
and made
b, when he
ti, and was
in. After
brothers
mate, told
10 sought
fongs, told
d stabbed
the sea.
story, and
rer caught
:ill him.
L dog-team
to East

ALASKA TO BERING STEAITS

Cape and one down to Plover Bay. While I was
away on one of these trips the captain traded for
six reindeer. The natives took their trade — a
keg of rum — in advance, and went ashore to get
the deer, which were inland. I returned at this
juncture, and the captain ordered me to go and
get the deer ; but when I learnt what trade he
had given them, I suggested that we wait until
the liquor and its effects had disappeared. But
the captain was impatient, and said he would go
himself, and, in spite of warning from the rest of
us and one or two friendly natives, he rowed
ashore and started off. We followed him with
the glass, and soon saw that there was going to
be trouble. We could see the deer returning and
a crowd following and surrounding the skipper.
We learnt afterwards that the friends of the
drowned Tchuktchi, incensed at what they con-
sidered the captain's cruelty, followed him as
soon as he landed and insulted and then
assaulted him. The captain fired at them with
his revolver, then threw it away and lied towards
the ship, but was soon overtaken, pierced by an
arrow, and then stabbed to death.

261

;-.f)

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

' Each year afterwards as I returned north I
renewed my reward for a shot at one of the
murderers, simply for effect, in case it should be
necessary for other white men to winter there.
After some years had elapsed, I went ashore at
St. Lawrence, but had no sooner landed than the
two brothers of the drowned man came running
towards me with knives, but I kept them back
with a revolver till I reached the boat. A year
or two later these men sent word to me asking
that peace should be declared. I agreed, and
they came aboard the next day. Shortly after
one of them went through the settlement while
drunk with a rifle, and fired into every hut as he
passed it. Li one he narrowly missed killing a
little girl, and her twelve-year-old brother seized
a gun and shot him dead.' ^

It was only on October 9 that I learnt by
accident that the misery and monotony of the
past five weeks had all been endured for nothing,
and that we had no more chance of reaching our

' A hatred of white men is evidently not confined to the
Tchuktchis, for a missionary was murdered by Eskimos as re-
cently as 1895 at the Protestant Mission at Cape Prince of Wales,
the murderers being, on this occasion, sober.

262

ALASKA TO BEKING STRAITS

destination than the two monks, mentioned by
St. Ger6me, who undertook to reach the spot
where the earth and sky were supposed to meet.
An old walrus-watcher, named Lew, who had once
shipped on a whaler, and could therefore speak
a few words of English, was in the habit of
paying us daily visits at the conclusion Cx his
day's work. It is perhaps characteristic of
Tchuktchi craftiness that, so long as our tobacco
lasted, Lew held his peace. But the fatal day
arrived when we received our visitor empty-
handed, and he then imparted a piece of in-
formation so calmly and logically that it bore
the unmistakable impress of truth. The land
journey to Anadyrsk was, he told us, quite
impossible. If not, why did not the Oumwaidjik
natives ever travel there by sleigh? During
the summer many baidar^s sailed with furs and
ivory to the Russian settlement by sea and river.
Two of these boats had not even yet returned
from this year's summer trip, and would now
stay over at Anadyrsk until the following year,
for it was quite impossible for their crews to
return until navigation reopened. There was

263

! Ml

i! :

. 1

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

, I .' li

i :„,

M!l

I! Ii.

iy I

■ ] I »T

no way by land. In the first place, no dog would
face the terrible storms, and still less the terrific
cold, for a month in the open without a scrap
of firewood or fuel of any description. ' Man,
dog, everyting die,' concluded Lew ; adding,
' You get out of this or you die too,' as he took
his departure.

We quite saw the force of our friend's kindly
suggestion, but entirely failed to see how it was
to be carried out. My first impulse was to seek
out Koari and call him to account for his
abominable treachery ; but on second thoughts
I abandoned this course, which would not only
have been useless, but perhaps have subjected us
to insults and annoyances that we had hitherto
escaped by showing civility and good temper. I
resolved, however, to test the accuracy of Lew's
statements, and a few hours later carelessly ques-
tioned Koari as to the date of our departure for
the interior. * Byme-by you look,' was the im-
perturbable reply ; ' no go now, plenty cold — no
fire— man, dog— all die. Byme-by warm ; six,
seven moons stop Koari. Then all right — go.'
' By baidara ? ' I asked, as urbanely as my feel-

264

ALASKA TO BERING STKAITS

ig would

s terrific

a scrap

' Man,

adding,

he took

's kindly
iw it was
i to seek

for his
thoughts
not only
)jectedus

hitherto
3mper. I
of Lew's
ssly ques-
arture for
3 the im-

cold — no
arm ; six,
ight— go.'
s my feel-

ings would permit. ' Yes, by baidar^ — seven
moon more — all right.' And I could have struck
the scoundrel in the face as the nameless horrors
of an imprisonment in filth and darkness for
seven or eight endless months were revealed in
all their hideous reality. It was now plainly
evident that this rascally Tchuktchi had never
from the very first intended to carry out his
contract.

What was to be done ? Harding and I
returned to the hut to gaze blankly at each other
for a few moments, and then to set about rack-
ing our brains to find a way, however intricate,
out of the dilemma ; but the crucial question
remained unanswered. We looked hopelessly
through the grimy window at the mournful
poverty-stricken huts looming through the dusk,
and cursed the scheme that had landed us among
them and their foul inmates. We turned our
eyes seawards, where the foot ice, already over a
mile in breadth, had come to stay, and our hearts
sank within us at the thought that another ten
days at the most would entomb us securely
and hopelessly as a vault in Kensal Green

265

: i

I, .

["■i;

( 1 1

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

Cemetery. It was almost dark when an idea
struck Harding?, who silently tore down the fla^
that was hanging by the window. I watched
him as he walked through the gathering gloom
to the beach, and fixed it to an old whale rib
that had once formed part of a hut. And, as the
Union Jack fluttered gaily out on the evening
breeze, I wondered whether the lady who had
given it me in far-away England had ever realised
that the lives of two men would one day depend
upon that tiny bit of bunting. For one spark
only (and a very dim one) now smouldered amid
the ashes of our hopes — ' The Whalers.'

iM.<

266

ALASKA TO j^j^RING STRAITS

CHAPTER XII

OUR RESCUE THE ' BELVEDERE ' — SAN FRANCISCO

Our hope of escape was a faint one, for the
whahng ships had probably all left the Arctic
Ocean by now ; but a drowning man will clutch
at a straw. Lew informed us by way of conso-
lation that, out of the twelve or fifteen ships that
annually went north, at least two or three were
inva,riably (as he expressed it) ' broken,' or lost,
which fact reduced our chance of rescue to
infinitesimal proportions. In fact, the outlook
could not well have been worse. It is truly
providential, however, that the whaling catas-
trophe of 1897 did not occur the preceding year,
for in that case nothing could have saved us
from protracted hardships of a terrible descrip-
tion, if not from death itself.' To make matters
worse, the damp in our hut had become so

' See Appendix I.
267

.(■

THKOUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

p'' II

>\ t.

intolerable, and we suffered so severely from
rheumatism, that we were compelled to move
into Koari's walrus-hide hut, which, although
infinitely worse as regarded pure air and seclu-
sion, was at any rate weather-tight and always
warm, at times even to suffocation. Koari at
first evinced some suspicion at a prominent dis-
play of the Union Jack ; but when I explained
that our object was simply to attract the atten-
tion of some ship passing southward, in order to
send a final letter home to our friends, the chief
merely shrugged his shoulders and remarked
that many moons must elapse before a vessel
could possibly approach Oumwaidjik, which fact,
judging from the condition of the ice, appeared
unpleasantly probable.

• Then followed a period of mental and phy-
sical suffering that I cannot even now look back
upon without a shudder. There were days when
it seemed as though one would never look upon
civilised faces or hear a friendly voice again.
Minutes seemed like hours in that foul, dark
dwelling, which, towards night-time, assumed
the appearance of a veritable Inferno, with its

268

' i,iT

r.r.i

< 1

ly from
,0 move
although
.d seclu-
i always
Koari at
.ent dis-
splained
e atten-

order to
bhe chief
■emarked

a vessel
lich fact,
appeared

and phy-
ook back
ays when
ook upon
oe again,
oul, dark
assumed
with its

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

naked occupants of both sexes, and its sicken-
ing odour of unwashed humanity, only less re-
pellent to the senses than the nameless obsceni-
ties we were constantly compelled to witness
to the eye. Here we lay for nearly a week,
facing by turns the icy blast, in order to
struggle to the beach and scan, with eager eyes,
the cruel grey sea for a friendly sail, only to return
more hopelessly each day to our grim resting-
place, where a night of torture was generally in
prospect on account of the vermin that now
swarmed over us. About this time my troubles
were greatly increased by a painful skin eruption
which covered my entire body. I had suffered
from it ever since September 20, but the irrita-
tion had gradually increased, and was now so
intense that sleep, by night or day, was out of the
question, save for a few minutes at a time. We
had no remedy, and I honestly believe that
another month without relief would have driven
me out of my mind. I ascribed the complaint to
poorness of blood, arising from our un\»holesome
diet ; but it arose from a very different cause,
and is a malady common enough among the

269

I S

!»/'}

EH!

11! 'M

THKOUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

Tchuktchis, which I need not offend the reader's
sense of refinement by mentioning. It is known
as ' la gale ' in the French language.

The weather got worse and worse as October
crept slowly away, and the sun was now seldom
visible, even during its brief presence, on account
of dense fogs alternating with snowstorms. We
eventually discontinued our visits to the beach,
for they were, after all, useless, and a thorough
wetting only increased our misery, if that were
possible. There was absolutely nothing to think
about, and still less to hope for, as we lay
dozing under our filthy furs during tho daytime,
or tossed restlessly about after dark, watching
for the sickly dawn that would bring us as
wretched a day as the past night. Perhaps not
quite, for the movement of men, the sound of
human voices, were something to look at, and
to listen to. Anything was better than to lie
awake through those dark miserable nights,
listening to the moaning of the wind, and the
dull roar of the ice, as it gathered slowly and
surely on the coast, and, hour by hour, im-
mured us more hopelessly in this Arctic prison.

270

jader's
known

)ctober
seldom
iccount
8. We
beach,
lorough
lat were
to think
we lay
lay time,
matching
y us as
laps not
ound of
at, and
Hn to lie
nights,
and the
3wly and
our, im-
3 prison.

ALASKA TO BEEING STEAITS

The daylight was now fast leaving us, and we
had almost abandoned all hope of escape. When
deliverance did come, it came, as usual, unex-
pectedly. It was about noon on the 18th of
October, and a furious ' poorga ' had been raging
ever since the dawn. Even the natives preferred
remaining in their huts to facing the cutting
north-easter and blinding snow. I remember
that day so well ! I have cause to, for every
trifling incident that took place is engraven on
my memory. Only that morning I recollect
saying to Harding : ' Well, it's all over now ; we
must make the best of it ! ' It cannot have been
an hour after I made the remark that we heard,
above the roaring of the gale, the sound of voices
on the beach. They were raised as if in excite-
ment, and, as the poor walrus-watchers are there
in all weathers, two of the men jumped up,
seized a rifle apiece, and dashed out of the hut.
Presently one of them returned, his eyes ablaze
with excitement. ' Amakpawit ! ' ^ he yelled, and
throwing down his weapon rushed out again,
followed by every soul in the hut. Then we knew,

' Tcluiktchi, ' A steamer I '
271

^ .♦ i

wrn

i-i<

nl':

A\'

li)

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

and thanked a divine providence that we were
saved.

But many hours of terrible suspense still lay
before us. The wind was so tempestuous that we
could scarcely make our way against it to the
beach, where a crowd of natives had already
assembled to watch the strange vessel as she
laboured heavily along under steam and close-
reefed topsails. It was a wild, weird scene.
Before us stretched a rugged barrier of silvery
ice, divided by a blue-black strip of open water,
flecked with white billows, from the sullen grey
sky. One could hear nothing but the howling of
the gale, and the deafening roar of the ice as the
floes dashed against each other in a mountainous
sea. It seemed, for a few minutes of intense
anxiety, as though the stranger would hold on
her course, due south through Bering Straits.
But when I saw the Stars and Stripes run up to
the masthead, I knew that our rag of a Union
Jack had been seen, and felt sure that we should
not be Is ft to our fate.

For three long anxious hours we stood and
watched that stout little vessel as she struggled

272

e were

till lay
that we

to the
already

as she
d close-
L scene.
: silvery
n water,
len grey
)wling of
?,e as the
ntainous

intense

hold on

Straits.

■un up to

a Union
ve should

tood and
struggled

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

for the bay, where there was certainly anchorage,
but by no means safety. Safety lay in the open
sea. The skipper of that ship must have known
(as we knew) that he was risking not only the
lives of all on board, but even his wife's safety, by
lingering near this ice-trap. And yet, notwith-
standing almost imminent peril, he never for a
moment wavered on his mission of humanity.
It was rapidly getting dark, however, when the
ship anchored about two miles off the land,
opposite a spot on the shore where a strip of
open water rendered it possible to launch a
boat. But the breakers were terrible, and
the first baidara was caught up like a nut-
shell and dashed to pieces ; a second shared the
same fate ; but a third was safely launched, and,
amid the yells of the crowd, put bravely to sea.

Koari never left us for an instant. ' You no
go,' he kept repeating ; ' big water, you drown.'
This looked extremely hkely. We were indeed,
on this occasion, ' between the devil and the deep
sea.' But I knew that my old friend's anxiety
was not on our own account, but his own. I
think he had visions (since realised) of an

273 T

il
II

V T

' I.

:Ml

'him i' ; ' *

ill

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

American vessel called the * Bear ' ! Anyhow
it was only by dint of threats with a revolver
(which, with my journals and sketches, was the
only thing we brought away) that we managed
to embark on the third baidara launched,
jumping in when she was already on the crest
of a huge roller, which nearly swept me off my
feet. On this occasion only was I thankful
that the Tchuktchis love whisky. Had it not
been for the hope of being able to obtain some
of that fiery liquid, not a man would have
ventured out in such a sea.

During our passage to the ship, which
occupied more than an hour, we lay in a heap,
holding on like grim death to the bottom of the
boat, which plunged and rolled like a wild
thing, until we began to doubt whether it would
not have been almost better to risk a possible
death ashore than to court certain destruction
afloat. I am convinced that nothing but a
baidar&j would hava lived for five minutes in
the waves that every moment threatened
to engulf us, and that broke every now
and then into our midst with a sickening

274

A.nyhow
revolver

was the
managed
Eiunched,
the crest
,e off my

thankful
ad it not
bain some
uld have

ip, which
n a heap,
om of the
a wild
r it would
a possible
estruction
ng but a
ainutes in
threatened
every now
sickening

AIjASKA to BERING STRAITS

crash. We were literally oftener under the
water than upon it, and once, when within a
few yards of the whaler, a terrific sea swept us
from stem to stern, carrying away our steers-
man, who, however, never Jet go of the gunwale,
and clambered aboard again with marvellous
presence of mind and agility. A line was soon
afterwards thrown to us from the ship, and we
were presently alongside and swarming up a
rope so greasy with whale-blubber that my
frozen hands could scarcely grasp it. But, with
a superhuman effort, I dragged myself up the
slippery side and over the low bulwarks, and a
moment afterwards was shaking the hand of our
brave preserver, who surveyed, with a half -puzzled,
half-pitying expression, the fur-clad, miserable
object before him, while the latter, more dead
than alive, was scarcely able to realise as yet
that the events of the past few hours were not a
feverish dream, and that he and his faithful com-
panion were really saved at last.

We had been rescued by the steam whaler
' Belvedere,' of New Bedford, Mass., whose
name is as well known as the owner is popular

275 T 2

If.

[ ill- ii'i ."

i iii

J I

'M I

THBOUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

in the Arctic, which is saying a good deal.
Whiteside, a tall pleasant-faced man of middle
age, with handsome but slightly frost-bitten
features, led us away below to a snug brightly
lit little cabin, where we were soon retailing our
misfortunes over the first palatable food we had
tasted for many weary weeks. Mrs. Whiteside,
a young, delicate-looking woman, presently joined
us, and the good skipper then hurried away on
deck, leaving his wife to attend to our wants.
For the ' Belvedere ' was already under weigh,
and a rapidly falling barometer predicted a stormy
night.

The ' Belvedere,' a barque-rigged steamer of
480 tons, was returning to San Francisco from a
two years' whalin^f cruise in the Arctic Ocean.
I could scarcely believe that the pretty, neatly
dressed woman, chatting away so merrily beside
us, had really shared her husband's perils and
vicissitudes for two long years — twelve months
of which had been passed securely locked in the
ice off Herschel Island, near the mouth of the
Mackenzie River. This voyage had, in fact, been
Mrs. Whiteside's honeymoon trip, on which she

276

s ov

ood deal.
)f middle
)st- bitten
I brightly
ailing our
d we had
A^hiteside,
itly joined
[ away on
)ur wants,
cler weigh,
)d a stormy

steamer of
isco from a
;tic Ocean.
itty, neatly
rrily beside

perils and
ve months
eked in the
)uth of the
a fact, been

which she

(

. 1

■;■

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

had started only a few days after her marriage.
Our little hostess added that she had suffered
ever since childhood from weak lungs, and so
seriously that the doctors had permitted her to
embark upon this cruise under the impression
that she could scarcely live two years. But
within the first few months of her stay in the
Polar regions the cold pure air worked wonders ;
the improvement steadily continued, and Mrs.
Whiteside was now returning to her home
absolutely cured of a malady which is generally
only alleviated by balmy breezes and southern
skies.

We sat until late in the evening luxuriating
in the pleasant warmth and light of our new sur-
roundings, until it was time to turn into a couple
of rough wooden bunks hastily knocked up by the
carpenter, but wherein we slumbered, secure in
the companionship of civilised beings, until noon
the next day. Towards morning the fury of the
gale increased, and by noon it was blowing a
hurricane, which, however, did not raise a very
heavy sea ; for, although the ' Belvedere ' was
now a good twenty miles from the coast, we

277

SB^SSl

iHii

-- :.\ . l...;.i

li;

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS

were surrounded by ice. The floes were heavy
and squeezed the old ship unpleasantly hard at
times, but the sharp cracking noise made by her
timbers, and so disquieting to an inexperienced
ear, was, Whiteside told me, an additional proof
of her stability and strength. We did not get
quite clear for two days. A sharp look-out was
kept from the ' crow's nest,' for the ice-blink ^
was constantly seen on the horizon, and long and
frequent deviations from our course were ren-
dered necessary by troublesome leads. About
midday, however, on the 21st of October, when
south of St. Lawrence Island, Whiteside gave
a grunt of satisfaction, and shut his glasses with
a snap, for only blue water now lay between us
and San Francisco. ' We are well out of that,
my friend,' said the cheery skipper, as he drew
me towards the companion ; ' now, let's go and
have a drink ! '

Although, after our Oumwaidjik experiences,
the ' Belvedere ' appeared to us in the light of a

' A cnrions appearance in the sky, like a thin streak of sunshine
on the dnllest, doudiest day, which betokens the proximity of ice
at sea.

278

ire heavy
y hard at
ie by her
perienced
mal proof
1 not get
v-out was
ice-bhnk ^
1 long and
were ren-
s. About
)ber, when
iside gave
asses with
letween us
it of that,
s he drew
's go and

^periences,
light of a

lak of siinshine
roximity of ice

?(-A V

W^ M.eK

SEuVlTDit^C.

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

c 0111 modi ouH and well-found yacht, life on a
whaling ship is, under ordinary circumstances,
anything but pleasant. Mrs. Whiteside's cabin
was a tiny oasis of warmth and comfort, but
once outside its cosy portals the couj) (Vadl wa^
dirty and depressing in the extreme. Every-
thing — the decks, bulwarks, and rigging — was
coated with a greasy mixture of soot and
blubber, as sticky as it was malodorous. This
is caused by an operation known as ' trying out,'
which was carried on, even during the most
tempestuous weather, without cessation by day
or night, all the way from Bering Straits to the
Aleutian Islands. ' Trying out ' is simply the
converting of whale blubber into oil by boiling.
This is done (as a glance at the accompanying
sketch will show) on deck, in the fore part
of the ship, where a brick furnace is built for
the purpose. When the wind is anywhere but
dead aft, the occupants of the quarterdeck
naturally receive the full benefit of the smoke,
which, as the fuel consists of the brittle efuse
of already boiled blubber, is anything but
agreeable to the average nostrils, although it

281

i i.;l i

E.r'i ,''1 3i|'

III'' i

' • » !

THEOUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

occasioned us (after Tchuktchi odours) but
little inconvenience.

The ' Belvedere ' had been exceptionally
unfortunate until the last three weeks of her
cruise, and was actually returning to San
Francisco without a single fluke to show, when
an almost phenomenal harvest of eleven whales
was garnered, all within a fo^'tnight, which was
sending her into port as rich as, if not richer
than, any whaler in the fleet.

The reader may not be aware that there are
many kinds of whale, rr iging from the ' Bow-
head,' which fetches from 1,5001. to 2,000Z., to
the sperm whale, generally valued at three to
four hundred pounds. The dimensions of a
' Bowhead ' are almost incredible to the inex-
perienced in whaling matters. The jaw of one
captured by the ' Belvedere ' measured thirty
feet long and thirty feet high from top to base
of mouth, when excended. And yet a whale's
gullet is bO small that it can bareh' swallow an
apple, but feeds solely on a species of tiny shrimp
and the most diminutive fish, which swim into
his mouth, and are sifted, so to speak, through

282 •

' M^ •■ a* *«-* ^ • to ja «

■J1M!1»,UPW

rs) but

)tionally
! of her
to San
N, when
a whales
lich was
)t richer

here are
e ' Bow-
,000?., to
three to
}ns of a
the inex-
w of one
3d thirty
ip to base
a whale's
;^allow an
ly shrimp
swim into
:, through

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

a labyrinth of whalebone slats into his interior.
Whalebone is, however, a somewhat misleading
term for a substance which is not bone at all,
but a kind of horn. Over seven hundred of these
slats (some as much as twelve feet in length) are
fixed in the upper jaw, and sweep backwards
and out of sight when the mouth is closed, to
straighten again when it reopens to form the
sieve for fish food aforementioned. An ordin-
ary ' Bowhead ' will easily carry 100 barrels of
oil at 131 gallons and yield 2,000 lbs. of bone.
WhaHng is therefore often a lucrative occupa-
tion, but much depends upon luck. The
' Belvedere ' had captured 137 whales since the
year 1881, thereby realising the sum of 164,000/.^
Whahng guns and explosive bombs are now
used exclusively in whaling, and the dangerous

' The following are the measurements of a whale eighty barrels
in size ; —

Total length 47 ft.

Length of fins g ,

Distance from rib end to spout holes . 17 „

Thickest part of blubber .... l„4iii.

Length of longest ' slat ' of bone . . 11 „ 1 in.

Number of slats- of bone . . . 760

Weight of longest slat of bone ... 7 Iba.

28.^

Ill

:^'

»p

ill:

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIEL]:>S OF

harpoon method is a thing of the past. But
a proof that the kilHng of a whale is, even
now, occasionally perilous was shown by a long
wooden case on the deck of the ' Belvedere.'
This contained the body of Mr. Warren, the first
boat-header ^ who had been killed by the last
' Bowhead ' captured just before the ' Belvedere '
came to our assistance, and whose remains were,
in obedience to his wishes, being conveyed to
America for interment. The monster, while
pursued, had passed close to the boat, and dealt
Warren a terrific blow with his fluke, smashing
his hipbone into fragments and completely tear-
ing open the abdomen. Nothing could be done
for the poor fellow, who lingered in terrible agony
for a few hours, till released by a merciful death.
The fatal blow was probably accidental, for the
' Bowhead ' is not generally vindictive. He
differs in this respect from the Grey-back, or
Devil Fish, w^hich becomes mad with rage when
pursued, and frequently follows and swamps a
whale-boat.

' In whaling parlance a ' boat-header ' is one who steers, a
' boat-steerer ' one who stands in the bo' s of the boat witli a
whaling gun and, Avhen near enough, ' strikes ' the whale.

284

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

I learnt some strange things anent whaling
on the ' Belvedere ' : the fact, for instance, that
the crew of a San Francisco whaler never
receives regular pay, but a share of the proceeds
reahsed by the 'catch.' The captain takes one
twelfth part, the chief mate one twenty-second
part, and so on in reduced gradation to the
able seamen, who each receive one eighty-fifth
share of the gross receipts. I gleaned too, in
confidence, from some of the sailors, that there
are as many tricks and dodges connected with
whaling p.s with the Turf, and that a whaling
skipper, to succeed in his profession, must be as
cute and a.rtful as a fashionable jockey. When,
for instance, whale-boats from a ship in the
neighbourhood of another vessel are drawing
cautiously near a whale, a favourite device of
the unsuccessful whaler is to keep the propeller
slowly moving. This at once scares the
whale away, much to the astonishment of the
pursuers, to whom the manoeuvre is invisible.
This is only one of many similar instances
related to me anent the guile of their com-

285

:! ,

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

III

('■

ji:.,

manders by the forecastle blubber-hunters ^ of
the ' Belvedere,' who, notwithstanding their
hard life, were cheery, willing fellows, and appar-
ently wxll satisfied with their lot.

The lower part of Bering Sea is, at all sea-
sons, a terribly stormy place, and south of the
Pribylov Islands a succession of adverse gales
considerably retarded our progress. These gales
are usually attended by fog and snowstorms,
which render it necessary to keep away as far
as possible from the land, which is generally
invisible until a vessel is close on to it. One
of the boat-steerers, a grizzled Arctic veteran,
informed us that ' hereabout it was always as
dark as a cupboard, and blowing 'ard enough to
tear a dog's 'ead orf,' which assertion, if some-
what exaggerated, is, nevertheless, fairly descrip-
tive of the kind of weather generally encountered
off the Seal Islands late in the year. At St.
Paul's, the larger of the two, there is an annual
average of under fifty clear days, while it is
impossible to land on either except on a very
still day. Even in summer frequent violent

' A slang term for a ' whaling man ' among sailors.

286

irs^ of

their

appar-

11 sea-
of the
e ga,les
,e gales
storms,

as far
snerally
i. One
veteran,
^ays as
DUgh to
: some-
iescrip-
untered

At St.

annual
le it is

a very

violent

ril

i II

ViP

'I ;'

' I J ! ■'

-I I I.

'.n?

ipllilj

1-1

ALASKA TO BEEING STKAITS

gales and dense fogs render this treacherous,
shallow sea the bugbear of the mariner, who
occasionally finds himself hard and fast ashore
in clear weather, over a hundred miles from
land of any description.

For twenty-four hours we lay hove-to, bat-
tling against a mountainous sea, that eventually
carried away three out of our eight whale-boats.
It was impossible to steam against it, for Ameri-
can whalers are only fitted with very inferior
engines, and can, even in calm weather, barely
steam their five knots an hour. But Whiteside
rightly described his craft as a splendid sea-boat,
for she rode the heavy seas like a duck, and
sailed like a witch. I have often felt more
anxiety on board a gigantic liner in a moderate
gale than during the dirtiest weather on the
tight, trim little ' Belvedere.'

The morning of October 25 finds us at anchor
in the placid waters of Ounalaska harbour. We
revel at the sight of the pretty village, nestling
under green, grassy downs, with its neat houses
and tiny church ; for is not this a foretaste of
the blessed civilisation we are nearing ? Cattle

287

mum

! • ' ' '

I (I

THBOUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

browse on the hill-sides, a tinkle of church bells
is musically wafted to us over the water, and the
rural, peaceful scene brings contentment to the
soul. Indeed, it would need but a slight stretch of
the imagination to fancy oneself on the shores of
the Lakes of Thun or Interlaken, so homelike are
our surroundings, bathed in the bright sunshine
that so rarely gladdens these lonely wastes. And
here, too, is our old friend the ' Bear,' on the
point of sailing for San Francisco ; but when T
board her not one of my old shipmates recognises
the man they landed in Siberia barely two
months ago. This is, perhaps, scarcely surpris-
ing, for a glance in a mirror reflects a counten-
ance that would do credit to the filthiest and
most debased Tchuktchi.

The skin disease from which I had never
ceased to suffer had now become so aggravated
as to necessitate my removal to the ' Bear,'
where, during the homeward voyage, I slowly
regained my health and strength, under the care
of Surgeon Lyall, whose kindness and attention,
together with the hospitality of the commander
and officers of the Revenue cutter, I can

288

tffl

i«i^

ALASKA TO BERING STl'AITS

ch bells
and the
fc to the
bretch of
ihores of
elike are
5unshine
ies. And
' on the
, when I
3Cognises
rely two
J surpris-
counten-
liest and

ad never
gravated
' Bear,'
I slowly
r the care
attention,
mmander
1-, I can

never hope adequately to repay. And here at
Ounalaska, the border-line between civilisation
and the grim, ice-bound regions he knows so well,
I bid farewell to the man to whose courage and
generosity we undoubtedly owe our lives ; for I
am convinced that neither Harding nor I should
have survived even another three months at
Oumwaidjik. It would be ungrateful on my
part not to add that Captain Whiteside was
fully aware of the risks that he ran in taking
us off that inhospitable shore, although, like
all truly brave men, he makes light of the
matter. Nevertheless, I can safely say that not
one man in a hundred of any nationality would
have acted as he did. When I add that, on arrival
at San Francisco, this gallant sailor refused to
take one farthing in return for his priceless
services, the reader will not wonder that the
name of Joseph Whiteside is one that I shall ever
recall with feelings of the truest friendship and
deepest gratitude to the day of my death.

There is little more to tell. Our voyage
in the ' Bear ' across the North Pacific is, as
usual, a buccesbion of gaks and fogs : the weather,

289 u

\ \

) ;

I ,

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

in short, that may always be expected there from
one year's end to another. On November 9 I
reach m.y journey's end ; not, alas ! in the fair
French city we all love so well, but still, under
the circumstances, in a no less welcome haven :
within the hospitable portals of ihe Golden Gate.

' 1 1

i ';M

^♦iijiiiiiiv'idv:

290

i> ill

ww^tW^l^""^'^ ■ "^

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

APPENDICES

APPENDTX A

Outfit for Oni-j Man for a Jottrney from

JUNI-]AU TO DaWSOX CiTY

20 pounds of fl(jur

bacon
beans
butter
vegetables
(dried)

1 cans condensed milk
> pounds sugar

,, tea

,, coffee

,, salt
Pepper, mustard, tobacco

Utensils

1 frying pan
1 water kettle
1 Yukon stove

1 bean pot

2 plates
1 tin drinking cup

The following tools are necessary to build a boat on
Lake Lindemann : —

1 tea-pot
1 knife and fork
1 large cooking pan
1 small ,, ,,
1 gold pan

1 jack plane
1 whip saw
1 cross-cut saw
1 axe
1 hatchet
1 hunting knife

6 pounds of assorted

nails
1 pound of oakum
•5 pounds of pitch
150 feet of rope
1 Juneau sled

291

TT 2

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

Z
^

:^.<

'■'■ /// ^^

'(/.
^

'/a

1.0

I.I

^■28 12.5
i^ 1^ III 2.2

£ lit

1.8

11.25 ■ 1.4 i 1.6

%^^^

>-^

^^^^^^M

Ii''

■ki

I!' mi

THEOUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

Essentials

One good duck tent
One oilskin sheet
Mosquito netting
Snow goggles j

N.B. — Procure the above outfit at Juneau.
Medicines, dec.

Cockle's pills

Quinine (tabloids)

Chlorodyne

Epsom salts

Goulard's extract

Ginger |

Patent medicines may be procured in the principal
Yukon settlements.

Arnica

Sticking plaster

Bandages

Lint

Cocaine (ta/bloids)

APPENDIX

Table of Distances feom Dyea to Ciecle City

Miles

Summit of Chilkoot Pass 14f

Head of Lake Lindemann .

23^

Foot of Lake Lindemann .

27i

Head of Lake Bennett

28i

Foot of Lake Bennett

53^

Caribou Crossing

56^

Foot of Lake Tagish .

73i

Head of Lake Marsh .

Foot of Lake Marsh .

97i

Head of Grand Cafion .

123

Foot of Grand Canon .

. 123J

Head of White Horse Eapids

. 125::

Takheena Eiver .

140

Head of Lake Le Barge

156

Foot of Lake Le Barge

184

i,;.

292

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

)rincipal

Hootalinqua River
Cassiar Bar
Big Salmon River
Little Salmon River
Five Fingers Rapids
Rink Rapids
Pelly River .
White River
Stewart River
Sixty-Mile Post .
Dawson City
Fort Reliance
Forty-Mile Post .
Fort Cudahy
Circle City .

Miles

216
242
249

285^

344

850

4031

499*

509

529

574

5821

G28

628|

798

■ ■

iE City

Miles

. 14|

. 28^

. 271

. 28i

. 53^

. 56i

. 73i

. 781

. 97i

. 123

. 123J

. r25i

. 140

. 156

. 184

APPENDIX C

Canadian Route to Klondike
The following route is said to be a feasible one by
competent authorities in Canada. I therefore givf the
particulars as I received them. I have, personally, no
acquaintance with this part of the country.

' There exists a further route to the Klondike than
either of those via Dyea or St. Michael's. This is the
one via Edmonton, which is over a long-used and well-
beaten trail practicable throughout the year. It has also
the advantage of running entirely through Canadian
territory. The trail runs from Green Lake (008 miles
by rail from Winnipeg) or from Athabasca Landing
(1,080 miles by rail from Winnipeg). In summer the
traveller can go nearly all the way to Dawson City by
water, travelling down-stream with only a four-mile
portage between the Yukon and Mackenzie rivers.

293

THEOUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

Fort McMurray is his first objective point. From here
steamers belonging to the Hudson Bay Company run
to Fort Macpherson. Having bought his stores here,
he can go up Peel river to Trout river, and a creek
flowing into that stream will take him to the portage
mentioned. He can then float down another creek into
Bear river, which flows into the Porcupine river, which
latter is a tributary of the Yukon. He is then within
easy reach of Dawson City.'

(If by ' easy reach ' is meant a distance of about
25U miles, against a stream which can only be ascended
v/ith great difliculty by towing a boat at the rate of
about a mile an hour. — H. pe W.)

;,« ';' ;

:*i,i

i-^

APPENDIX D

Mr. Joseph Ladue's Directions for Staking Out
A Mining Claim

The method of locating a claim is essentially simple.

It is peculiar to the Klondike region because of the
topography of the country. I refer of course to the
claims staked out for placer mining, as up to this
date this is the only mining attempted here. Through-
out this section are numerous small streams or creeks,
running through narrow valleys between the foot-hills.
The prospective miner determines on which stream
to hunt for the precious metal, and, having made a
' find,' he stakes out his claim in the following manner.
In staking the claim the prospector mu' ' not exceed
500 feet up and down the creek, the general course of
the valley. The width of the claim can run from base
to base of the hills or mountains. If there are no
claims located on this particular stream, the claim is

294

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

m here
ny run
s here,
L creek
Dortage
!ek into
, which
within

[ ahout
5cended
rate of

NG Out

• simple.
c of the
} to the

to this

hrongh-

f creeks,

)ot-hills.

stream

macle a
manner,
exceed
jonrse of

om base
! are no

claim is

known as the ' Discovery Claim,' and the stakes used
are marked 0. The next claim staked as you proceed
up the creek is marked No. 1, as is the next claim going
dow7i the stream. There can be but two claims
marked 1 on any one stream.

The four stakes being driven and each marked with
your own initials, and the letters INI. L. (meaning
mining location), you must bound your claim with
cross or end lines, and then proceed, within sixty days,
to file the claim with the Government's Recorder at
Dawson City. The Recorder at present is also the
Gold Commissioner. In recording, atiddavits must be
made that the claim is properly staked, and date given,
and gold been found.

The number of claim must also l)e given, and if it
is not the discovery claim it must be mentioned, as, for
instance. No. 1, or No. 1 above or below * Discovery
Claim,' as the case may be.

If a claim should be staked before gold is discovered
thereon, the prospector has sixty days in which to
prosecute the search for gold. If when this time has
expired he is yet unsuccessful, he can no longer hold
this claim, as the finding of the metal is absolutely
necessary to the permanent holding of the claim.

The method for staking a quartz claim is similar.
Here you lay out a claim 1,500 feet long by 600 feet
wide. The stakes are marked as in placer claims, and
the same rules govern in regard to finding of gold and
fihng the claims. The miner having filed his claim, it
is necessary that he work the claim three consecutive
months each year.

These requirements, though simple, are imperatively
necessary for the protection of the miner ; for, should a
miner attempt to work a claim without first properly
staking and recording the same, any one could come in,

295

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

work on the property, pvoporly stake and hokl the
claim, and so compel the first man to leave. A pro-
spector can file but one claim. Others he may acquire
must be by purchase, and the l)ill of sale properly
recorded at time of transfer. Should he abandon a
claim he can, of course, locate another.

APPENDIX E

The Murdep. of Lieutenant Barnard, R.N.

In the spring of 1851 liicutenant Barnard, a
member of Captain Collinson's Franklin Search Expedi-
tion, proceeded to Nulato in search of information
with regard to the fate of Sir John Franklin, and
having traced certain rumours of the presence of white
men in the far interior to the Koyukuk tribe, he
expressed his determination to send for the principal
chief of that tribe, who was then participating in the
celebration of an annual festival about twenty-live
miles from Nulato.

The chief in question was the most wealthy and
influential in the whole region, and, being possessed
of an exaggerated opinion of his own importance, took
offence at the English officers expression. The
Russian traders who had lived for years at the isolated
station of Nulato, and were much at the mercy of the
surrounding warlike tribes, had always respectfully
invited him to the fort whenever they desired his
presence.

His Indian pride rose at the insult, and a council of
warriors was called ; the Shamans were also consulted,
and it was finally concluded that all the Indians
assembled should proceed to Nulato and demand satis-
faction for the alleged insult. At this time a Russian
employe, accompanied by one man, arrived on the spot,

296

ALASKA TO BERING STEAITS

having b^en instructed to induce the chief to meet
Lieutenant Barnard at Nulato. As soon as his errand
was known the man was doomed, and he was ap-
proached from behind, while seated on his sled, and
instautl}' killed with a lance.

The Indian companion of the murdered trader was
also killed. Immediately after committing this crime
the warriors prepared for action and set out for Nulato.
Only half a mile from the trading post was situated
the native village of that name, containing about one
hundred people. The Indian slain by the Koyukuks
belonged to this village, and, in order to forestall re-
taliation, the invaders surprised the inmates in their
houses, killing all with the exception of a few women
and children. This was done so quietly that the
Russians and their visitor at the station were not
aroused. When the bloodthirsty savages finally
reached the stockade they found the commander,
Deriabin, who had just arisen, sitting behind one of
the houses. He was approached stealthily from behind
and stabbed in the back, dying immediately, without
giving the alarm, and over his body the party entered
the house where Lieutenant Barnard was reading. At
the sight of the infuriated Indians the English officer
seized a gun and fired twice without hitting any one,
and a notorious Shaman, named Larion by the Eus-
sians, then stabbed the lieutenant in the abdomen,
inflicting a mortal wound.

The Indians next turned their attention to the
barracks, where the labourers lived with their native
wives, but a few sliots fired by the besieged induced
them to retreat with the prisoners made in the village.

The murderous Shaman had been wounded in the
melee, but managed to make his escape, and lived until
a few years ago, ))oth feared and hated by whites

297

'''i

III

THROUGH THE GOLD-VIELDS OF

and Indians, committing many horrible crimes and
frequently inciting others to murder. Lieutenant
Barnard was buried within a few yards of the stockade
of Nulato, and a cross was erected over his grave.

APPENDIX P

Meteorological Pepokt, Foet St. Michael,
Alaska, for ISFav, Jtne, July, and August, 1896

.\lOMttl

Tlioniiometcr

May
June
July

August

Total

Lowest

27
34
34

IlilTlll'st

53
02
G7

Dnys

Fail-

t!l(iu.ly

naiiiv

■

13 ;

14 <

■',1

I'lU

• m '

APPENDIX G

Prices of Furs in London exported from Alaska

1. Silver fox, from 6c/. to 105/.

2. Marten, from l,s. to 2/. 10s.
8. Beaver, from 6,s. to 21. H.s.

4. Cross fox, from 2.s. to 'SI. 7s.

5. Mink, from Id. to 1/. 3.s.

G. Red fox, from l.s. to 15.<f. 6(7.

7. Arctic (white) fox, from l.s. Cid. to los.

8. Lynx, from 2s. 6d. to 12.s. (id.

Brown bear, from 8.s\ to 7/. 10s.
Grizzly bear, from 3s. to 8/. 10s.
Black bear, from 2s. to 71.
Polar bear, from 20s. to 8/. 10s.

298

ALASKA TO BEEING STRAITS

Reindeer, wolf, and squirrel arc not exported from
St. Michael's, but are largely used there as clothing.

^.B.— The above are prices in the rour/h. There is
considerable wasle in prt-paring for use, and the ex-
penses connected with cleaning and setting up are
enormous.

■ naiiiy

i
37

Cape Tciiaptjn, N.E.

APPENDIX H

Glossary ov Tchuktchi Language spoken at Vil-
lage OE Or^rWATD.TTK,

SiBERLV, Bering Sea.'

Atajak

Mailop

Piniayout

Shtemet

Takhlimat

Awindlit

Mara aicimllit

Pinia (mnliilut

Shtama ounlulut

KouJlia

Ataja-oumlahok

Mailop-oinnJaho'k

Yv-ou7nlabok

Ali-ah

Naka

Taiiakhoom

Youk

Ai'anak

Tan a khwak, Tanokwa k

Nail Ufa

Moiig^ve

Quite distinct i'rom Jaiigr.nges spoken Ly inland dcermeii.

3
4

9
10
11
12
20

Yes .
No

Good-day
A man .
A woman
A boy (child)
To eat .
To drink

299

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

;i 'I

(,i

I i

A steamer

A dog .

A duck .

A deer .

A walrus

A seal (big)

A seal (small)

A whale

A fish .

A hand .

A foot .

Bread .

Tobacco

Good .

Plenty .

Parka (skin coat)

Boots (deerskin)

An axe .

A wolverine .

A bear .

A black bear

A knife .

A house

A pouch

Deerskin breeches

Aurora boreal is

Cool .

Too cool

A lamp wick

Slow

Quick .

I do not know

Warm .

Cold .

Who is that ?

Amakpawit

Klikmah

Ka2vak

GoiuoiJiiak

Aijivah

Maklak

Nakshak

Arivak

Ekatliak

Eehit

Eetirjak

Nakukshak

Ahouktawak

Pinechtok

Oulakhtok

A tkouk

Kmmik

Kashkalmawak

Kavtchik

Nanok

Kainga

Simkahoha'ila

Monntarak

Akouiav-ak

Konkhli

Keroyak

Aklava

Sapokhnak

Pokak

Akfatnak

Soukwaihloiiten

Teh a ami

Puukshhi

IToJtanga

Kinangawa ?

300

ALASKA TO BEEING STKAITR

Wind .

South .

East .

West .

North .

Alaska .

Oomiak (Alaska)

Wet .

Smoke .

Smoke a pipe

Bain

Snow .

A sleigh

A whip

A pipe .

Matches

Dog harness

You lie

Five months

One month

Keep still

Water .

Salt water

To break a sleigh

To break a boat

Sick .

Good night .

A big man .

Little fish (October)

A spoon

Get out

My .

My daughter

My pipe

The stars

Anokioa

Ikauak

Asivak

Pakwadlia

Kotfwak

Nagurok

Angkik (Noukamok)

Nokoukhnak

Pouijouk

Mdoiikhtok

Nepshiuk

Kanit

Kamiyak

Kakshaou

Kwinga

Nakhsett

Arloit

Eklinia kootung

Tankith-tashlimat

Atajak tankikh

Napere

Mok

Taijuk

Ayemok

Tsiekoutok

A khnikhtimga

Hantig

Antokhpok

Ekashliwak

AskoHuk

AgoUaketuk

Kwanga

Kwanga panika

Kwanga kwinga

Aradlakatak

>■

301

mmvw

THROUGH THE GOLD-1'IELDS

il.

Ice

Snow

llairi

Fog

Sikua
An to

Nouptchouk
Tangltok

'«. ' (' i\

\ V-'''

11 IKi

> I!

!U ■ [

APPENDIX I

The Icebound Wiiaiers

Eiijht vessels now known to have been caught

San Francisco, October 29. — Eight whalers, instead
of five, as previously reported, are fast in the ice of
Point li'-irrow, and on at least one of them, the
' Jeanuie,' there will be great suffering. Not only is
the ship so far away tliat there is no chance to take
supplies to her, but her men have no appliances with
which to get to shore over more than 1.50 miles of ice.
The full hst of the vessels known to l)e fast, in addition
to the ' Jeannie,' are the 'Newport,' ' Orca,' 'Jesse
Freeman,' ' Belvedere,' ' Fearless,' ' Kosario,' and
'Wanderer.' The news of this state of affairs in the
whaling fleet was brought out of the Arctic by the
steamer ' Karluck,' which was barely able to reach free
water with her seven whales.

The catch of the ' Karluck ' is one of the heaviest
of the season, although all of the whalers who were
spoken had made some progress. The ' Karluck '
reports that none of those vessels which are stuck in
the ice are close to any supply station, and that there
will be trouble for the men on board them is certain.
The ships are separated, and no communication was
had with them by the steamer which escaped. The
' Karluck ' left St. Michael on the 14th, and is ex-
pected to arrive here in a few days.

302

INDEX

rfht

, instead
e ice of
lem, the
J only is
to take
ces with
3S of ice.
addition
,' 'Jesse
io,' and
rs in the
; by the
3ach free

heaviest
-'ho were
Karluck '
stuck in
lat there
certain,
tion was
3d. The
id is ex-

Alaska :

Area and population, 19
Bishop of, description of
crossing Chilkoot Pass,
86
Boundary partition, 154
Climate, 21, 119
Commerce, 24
Commercial Company,
Agency at Forty-Mile
City, 141, 142
Dwellings at Fort

St. Michael, 172
Hospitality to stran-
gers, 150
Complaints common in, 122
Conditions of travelling in,

42,46
Discovered by Bering, 22
Gold-fever in interior, 102
Gold found all over coimtry,

105
Gold obtained by 'placer

mining,' 111
Greek missions in, 173
Origin of, 19

Kiver steamer accommoda-
tion, 149
Routes to, 11
Two divisions, 19
Wild flowers, 281
Winter beginning in, 116

Alaskan Eskimo :
Account of, 180
Bath described, 183
Boats, 185
Food, 184
Indifference to death, story

of, 225
• Kyak,' 170, 185
Language of, 243
Numbers of, 180
On shores of Ajctic, 17
Smallpox among, 249
Winter dwellings described,

181
Women, account of, 181
Alaskan Indians at Dyoa, 17
Alaskan prospector orderly and

well behaved, 12?
' Alaskan strawberries,' 9
'Alice,' accommodation on,
150
Delayed by ice on Lower
Yukon, 149
Anadyrsk, Siberian settlement,
3, 195
Land journey impossible to,
268
Andi-ee, handbills of balloon dis-
tributed among Tchuktchis,
251 ; story of, 252
Aphoon, one mouth of Yukon,
170

303

tma

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

^ m

Ash, Mr. and Mrs., travelling to
Circle City, 43, 58
Disaster to their scow,
61
Author's route Ironi Now York,
2

' Baidara,' Eskimo boat, 177,

185
Barnard, Lieutenant, murdered
at Nulato, 166
Account of— Appendix E,
296
Barnuin, Father, Romanist
missionary on Yukon, joins
Author's party, 30
Characteristics, 169
Beane, Mrs., shot by natives,

167
Bear. -See U.S. ' Bear '
Bear Creek, tributary of Klon-
dike, gold yield, 107
' Belvedere ' :
Plan of, 279

Rescues Author and Hard-
ing, 274
Sailing powers, 287
Steam whaler, appears off

Oumwaidjik, 272
Value of captiu'es, 283
Bering Sea closed by ice until
middle of June, 135

Intricate navigation and

violent storms, 190
Treacherous waters of, 170
Bering Straits :

Dialects spoken on Siberian

shores, 243
Never entirely frozen over,

178
Sleigh journey over, pro-
jected, 176

Berry, Clarence, account of
arrival in Klondike, 130
Gold finds, 181
Big Salmon river, 84
Birch Creek, lOo ; diggings near

Circle City deserted, 159
Bonanza Creek :

Claims staked on, 107
Cormack finds gold ai, 107
Opinion of older prospectors
of, 130
Boulder Creek diggings deserted,

159
' Bowhead ' whale, size and value

of, 282
Bowker, F. G., value of claims,

133
Brummcrhoff, Captain, mur-
dered by Tchuktchis, 261
Bush, Ethel (Mrs. Clarence
Berry), gold finds, 131, 182 ?j

Campbell, Donald, Captain of
' Rustler,' 7

Former calling, 10
Campbell, Robert, discovered

Felly river, 88
Canadian Mounted Police keep

order in Dawson City, 126
Cape Prince of Wales :
Described, 242 ».
Missionary murdered by

Eskimos, 262 ?i.
Reindeer station near, 176
Cape Tchaplin, Oumwaidjik,

Author lands at, 193
Caribou Crossing, coimecting
Lake Bennett with Lake
Tagish, 55
Cassiar Bar, gold found at, 104
Cassiar mines, 83

304

ALASKxV TO BERING STRAITS

unt of
30

ags near
159

107

i ai, 107

ospectors

deserted,

and value

of claims,

tin, min-
is, 261
Clarence

131, 182 n

Captaii^ of

discovered

Police keep

ity, 126

irdered by

a near, 176
)i\mwaidjik,

eomiecting
vsith Lake

)und at, 104

Chilkat tribe, heavy weight

carried by, 33
Chilkoot Pass, 2, 3, 12

Condition of, subject of

conversation, 16
Passa(<e of, 33, 37
Circle City :

Appearance, 157
Bell, 101

Derivation of name, 158
Deserted for Klondike, 102
Diggings near, 159
Dogs, 162

Gold dust legal tender, 103
' Palis of Alaska,' 160
Rnled by ' Yukon Pioneers,'
163
Coal Creek, 153
Coast Tfhnktehis, 200
Cogan, Ca])tain, account of
wintering in St. Lawrence
Bay : Tchuktchis, 259
Collinson, Captain, Franklin
Search Expedition : Lieu-
tenant Barnard's expedition
to Nulato, 296
Cone Hill, Forty-j\Iile, assays of

quartz, 147
Cooper, Joe, guide, 3
Copper found near junction of

White river with Yukon, 92
Cormack, George, discovers gold

in Klondike, 106
Crater Lake, one of sources of

Y^ukon river, 38
Cudahy, John, Chicago mer-
chant, gives name to Fort
Cudahy, 143

Daniel, Indian messenger, 32
Daulton's Trail, cattle driven
across, 12, 137

Dawson City :

Amusements, 125

Climate, 119

Cost of living at : Store

price list, 124
Described, 98, 118
Mosquitoes at, 120
No supplies reaching, 120
O'Gilvie's description of,

100 //.
Population in June 1896,

118
Keports of fal)ulous wealth
from Too Much Gold
Creek, 108
Rival of Coolgardie and

Johannesbm-g, 134
Shanty erected by Joseph

Ladue, 117
Typhoid cases in, 122 n.
Well governed, 126
Dawson, Dr. G. M. :

Established boundary be-
tween Alaska and North-
West Territory — City
named after, 117
Geological survey of Pelly
and Lewes rivers, 156
Deadwood Creek diggings

deserted, 159
Diomede Islands, 179
Douglas Island. Treadwell jNIine

on, 4
' Dutchy,' history of, 50
Dyea, at head of Lynn Canal, 6
Described, 13
Landing at, 13
Origin of name, 13
To Circle City, table of
distances - Appendix B,
292
Trail from, 25

«i

305

' I

I f

i ■ I

' ^r

''V^

THFiOUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

Eagbe Cheek dipji^ings deaertei,

159
East Cape :

Captain Cogan's expedition

to, 260
Eoad to Nijni-Kolymsk

blocked by ice, 193
Tchnktchi settlement at,
192
Kl- Dorado, aftlnent of Bonanza,

prospectpd, 107
Elliott : accounts of —

Eskimo ' Kashfra,' 18B

Herd of walrus, 229

Visit to St. ^fatthcw Island

for bear-shooting, 254
Walrus, 229
Eskimo. Sec Alaslcan Eskimo
■ Excelsior ' curries news of gold
discoveries to San Francisco,
100

Fifty-Mile liver, 62; steep

banks of, 6 i
Five Fingers liapids, 85 ; origin

of name, 86
' FlaiD-Jacks,' 25
For, Cudahy, most northerly
garrison of British Empire,
143
Fort St. Michael, on Bering Sea,
3, 11

Climate — Sport, 171
Duck and ptarmigan at,

15
Meteorological Report,May-
AuguRt 1896 — Appendix
F, 298
No lack of food at, 121
Reached, 170
Situation, 172
Sport near, 171, 187

Unapproachable by water

till middle of June, 185
Wnd flowers, 231
Fort Selkirk :
Described, 88
Junction of Pelly and Lewes

rivers at, 88
Now called Pelly, 91
St. Saviour's Mission at, 90
Fort Yukon, tiading post of

Hudson Bay Company, 165
Forty-Mile City, 3, 11
Described* 139
Deserted for Klondike, 102
Roof gardens, 141
To St. Michael, fare and

freight, 151
Trading port, 105
I'orty-Milc Creek:
Described. 145
Gold reported on, 104
O'Gilvie's report on, 116
Tracking or ' poling ' to

diggings, 145
Yields per diem, 148?/.
Four-Leaf Clover, west side of
Y'ukon, promises of gold yield,
108
Furs from Alaska, prices in
London - Appendix Gr, 298

Glossary of Tchuktchi lan-
guage — Appendix H, 299

Gold Bottom, tributary of Ivlon-
dike, gold yield, 107

Gold, ' placer mining ' described,
111

Gold taken from Yukon in 1894,
105

Grand Canon described, 64 ;
deaths in, 65, 69

Great Yukon river, 88

306

by water
line, 1B5

and Lewes

,91

ision at, 90
g post of
any, 11J5
I

ndike, 102

i, fare and

11, 104
t on, 116
polins ' to

, 148?/.
rest side of
gold yield,

prices in
G, 298

itchi Ian-
H, 299
iry of Klon-
)7
described,

von in 1894,

ribed, 04 ;

ALASKA TO BEBING STBAITS

Hair seal found between
Greenland and Labrador, 227

Hair seals shot at Oumwaidjik,
228

Hall Island, near St. Matthew,
bears on, 255

Harding, George, accompanies
Author on travels, 2

Harrison Creek, diggings de-
serted, 159

Healey, Captain, on ' Kaniitok,'
225 ; story of Alaskan Es-
kimo's indifference to death,
225

Heron, store-keeper at Dyea, 14

Herschel Island, whalers off,
176

HootaliiKjua river, 82

' Hootchinoo,' 9

Hovgaard, estimate of Tchuk-
tchis, 200

Hudson Bay Company, find
gold in river sands of Alaska,
104

Hunker Creek, tributary of
Klondike, gold yield, 107

Icebound whalers— Appendix
I, 302

Incessant daylight wearying, 79

Indian corpse found, 87

Indian Point, Cape Tchaplin,
Cape Tchukotskoi, Oumwaid-
jik, Author lands at, 193

' Jeannkxtk,' sufferings of crew
during Arctic voyage, 175

Juneau :

Described, 4, 5
Goldlields near, 104
Outfits procurable at, 136

Steamers from Victoria,

B.C., to, 135
To Dawson City, outfit —

Appendix A, 291
Tourists at, 1

' Kamxtok,' Tchuktchi cere-
mony ; putting aged to death,
223

Px'actised by Alaskan
Eskimo, 225
* Karliick ' whaler, catch, 302
' Kashga,' Eskimo Council

House, 183
Kee-eeni Island, 215
Kennan, George, on reindeer

and Tchuktchis, 210
King's Island, summer huts of

inhabitants, 191
King's Islanders described, 192
Kipling, iUidyard, quoted, 214
Klik-Hi'is, Indian name for

White Horse Rapids, 71
Klondike :

Canadiau route to— Appen-
dix C, 293
Capital needed for, 138
False bedrock at, 160 n.
Gold strike, news reaches

Author, 103
Gold yield, January to

April 1897, 105
Goldfields, extent of, 110 ;

position of, 106, 155 n.
Insalubrity, newspaper re-
ports of, 120
Lucky ' strikes,' 129
Most direct route from

England to, 135
New route via Stikine river
and Glenora to Teslin
Iiake. IH

307

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

4 Ui^mi

1 *;':'ii.

Klondike :

Outfit necessary foi*, 136

Outfits procurable at
Juneau, 136

Toor Man's El Dorado, 101

llevolvers forbidden ai, 136
Koari, headman of Oumwaidjik,
195

Buries author's stores, 236

Character, 196

Clears hut of natives, 207

Conduct, 208

Hut described, 204

Reindeer owned by, 210

Treachery, 264

Tries to prevent author's
departr.re, 273

Wife and family arrive from
Kee-eeni Island, 239
' Kohola ' whaler wintering in

St. Lawrence Bay, 259
Kosercfski :

Climate, 103

Romanist mission at, 167
Koyukuk river, 166
Kutlilc Settlement, 170

I Boat built at, 42

Described, 44
Lake Marsh, origin of name, 59
Lake Tagish, 55
' Connected with Lake

j IMarsh, 57

Described, 56
Lake Teslin drained by Hoota-

lini^uH, 83
Last Chance Creek, tributary of

Klondike, gold yield, 107
Leggatt, William, gold find at

EI-Dorado, 132
Lew, informs Author that land

journey is impossible, 263
Lewes river, aspect changed

below Big Salmon river, 84
Lewes river entered, 82
Lippy, T. S., value of claims.

133
Little Salmon river, 85
Log-jams on Upper Yukon, 84
Lower Yukon. Set' Yukon river.

Lower
Lyall, surgeon on ' Bear,' atten-
tion to x^uthor, 288
Lynn Canal described, 8

Ladue, Joseph :

Description of ' placer min-
ing,' 111

Directions for staking out
mining claims — Ap-

pendix D, 294

Founds Dawson City, 117

Land held by, 117

Store at Sixty-Mile, 94
Lake Bennett described, 47
Lake Le Barge :

Described, 76

Echo on, 77

Entered, 75
Lake Lindemann, 17

]\IacDonald, Alexander :

Explores F nvart river, 93
Gold find at El-Dorado, 132
McQuesten, 'Father of the
Yukon,' 157

Honesty and integrity of,
163 "
Magrath computes position of

141st meridian, 157
Maidel, Baron, relates Tchuktchi

legend of creation, 222 n.
' Marjorie ' :
Bought, 47
On sandpit, 80

308

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

:' name, 59
,h Lake

by Hoota-

I'ibutary of
d, 107 '
lid find at

that land
lie, 203
t changed
river, B4
82
of claims.

Million, 84
ukon river,

ear,' atten-

d, 8

;der :

rfc river, iJo
Dorado, 182
sr of the

iitegrity of,

position of
i7

sTchuktchi
222 n.

Mastodon Creek diggings de-
serted, 159

M?Iler Creek, trikitary of Sixty-
Mile, 94

'Miner's Grave,' name for
White Horse Kapids, 73

Mining claim, J. Ladne's di-
rections for staking out- -Ap-
pendix D, 294

Mission Creek, Boundary Butte,
155

Mosquitoes, sufferings inflicted
by, 59, 70, 167

Monga, wife of Noo-oona, 240
Singing and dancing, 247
Warns Author of orgies, 258

Mount St. Elias, ascent of, 20

Neumann at Fort St. Michael,

189
' New York Herald' (Paris), news
of gold-strike at Klondike, 103
Noo-oona, Koari's second son,

240 ; character, 246
Nordenskiold river, 85
North American Trading Com-
pany settlement at Forty-
Mile, 142
Nulato settlement :

Lieutenant Barnard mur-
dered at, account of—
Appendix E, 296
Tragedies at, 166

O'GiLviE, W. :

Geographical survey of
Alaska, 156

On Alaska boundary par-
tition, 158

Predictions for Alaska and
North West Provinces,
110

Report of Dawson City, 100
Report on Bonanza Creek,
109

Report on Forty-Mile Creek,

146
On panning results on El
Dorado, 107
' Old JIan,' ' Old Woman,"

Indian legend of, 151
Ostiak, tributary tribe to

Tchuktchis, 201
Oumwaidjik :

Arctic prison, 205
! Athletics at, 246

Author lands at, 193
Author's dwelling at, 197
Author's sufferings at, 208
Bear shooting at, 252
Drinking bouts, 250
Land journey to xVnadyrsk

impossible, 263
Life at, 215, 217
October weather at, 235,

238, 270
Scene with ' Shaman,' T^O
Situation of, 194
Stores taken to, 211
Village described, 199
Yearly catch, 226
Ounalaska Harbour :

' Belvedere ' arrives in, 287
Rainfall, 21
Outfit for one man for joiu'ney
from Juneau to Dawson City —
Appendix A, 291
Oyurapok, Koari's son, 215, 240
Conduct, 244

Rushes into Author's hut
wounded, 256

' Pan ' method of extracting

gold, 112
Paul, Emperor, grants charter

309

THROUGH THE GOLD-FIELDS OF

i ,-'

to Russo-American Fur Com-
pany, 22

Pauncefote, Sir Julian, places
' Bear ' at Author's disposal, 53,
179

Pelly river, 86 ; discovered by
Robert Campbell, 88

Petrol'l', Ivan, estimate of
Alaskan Eskimo, 180

' Placer mining,' J. Ladue's de-
scription of processes, 111

Plover ]5ay, Captain Cogan's
expedition to, 261

Polar bears near OumwaidjiJi,
253

' Poorga,' storm-laden gale, 238,
271

Porcupine river, Fort Yukon
on, 16ij

' Portland ' carries gold from
Klondike to Seattle, 101

Pribylov Islands :

Fur-seal seldom found

north of, 227
Storms south of, 286

Reindeer, Tchuktchis, 200
Reindeer, varied uses of, 217 n.
' Rocker ' described, 112
Russian America acf[uired by

United States, 23
' Rustler ' described, 6

St. Lawrence Bay, Captain

Cogan's account of wintering

in, 259
St. Lawrence Island, jackets of

eider-duck breasts made at,

240
St. Matthew Island, bears on,

Elliott's account of visit to, 254
St. Michael. Sec Fort St.

Michael

St. Paul's, Seal Islands, storms

at, 286
San Francisco :

iUithor's arrival at, 290
Gold from Klondike shown
at, 100
Sclnvatka, Lieutenant :

Attempts to define Aiaskan

boundary, 155
Names Lake Marsh, 59
Survey of Lewes and Pelly-
Yukoii rivers, 155
Seal Islands, storms at, 286
Scfjhers, Archbishop, unu'dcred,

167
Seward, Secretary :

Dying speech on purchase

of Alaska, 24
Responsible for purchase of
Alaska, 23
' Shaman,' ' medicine man,'
inlluencc of, 152

Power among Tchuktchis,

221
Warning against photo-
graphs, 250
Sheep Camp described, 28
Sheep Camp Glacier, effects of

light and ade on, 28
Siberian Tchuktchis. See

Tchuktchis
' Silent City,' mirage, 8; photo-
graph of, 9
Sitka, Russo-American Fur

Company's station at, 23
Siwunga, Koari's wife, 215, 240 ;

her character, 244
Sixty-Mile Creek, 94
Sixty-Mile river, gold and silver-
bearing quartz on, 108 n.
Skagway Bay, good anchorage,

10
Skagway, steamers from Vic-

ALASKA TO BERING STRAITS

fleets of

Sec

photo -

Fur
23
5, 240 ;

ailver-
n.
3horage,

tm Vic-

torift, British Columbia, to,

133
' Shig ' built and christened, 47
' Sluicing ' process described, 114
Sloss of Alaska Commercial

Company, at Fort St. Michael,

189
Southern Alaska, the Noi'wny of

America, 1
Stewart river district rich in

gold-bearing quarlz, 9!{
Stewart river px'ospecteil for

gold, 10 1
Stonehouso, plateau near Chil-

koot Paws, 34

Tree limit, condition of
trail beyond, 29

Taoisii Indians degraded, HS
Takheena river, origin of name,

74
Tanana river, 105, 166
Tatshun river, 86
' Tchinovnik; 201
Tchuktchi language, glossary of

—Appendix H, 2^9
Tchuktchi legend of creation,

222 r;.
Tchuktchis, Siberian :

Antipathy to camera, 250
Ceremony of putting aged

to death, 223
Characteristics, 201
Dangerous when drunk,
258 ; Captain Cogan's
account of, 259
Described, 180
Dress, 203
Employments of men and

women, 239
Interviewed on possibility
of sleigh journey across
Bering Straits, 177

Love of tobacco, 207
Manner of shooting, 237
Marvellous marksmen, 247,
Poor subsisting on seaweed,

234
Religion, 222; evil spirits,

22G
Slim and powerful, 247
Two distinct tribes, 200
Women, 203
Tliirty-Milo river, part of Lewes

river, 8'i
Thlinkits, tribe of Alaskan

Indians, 17
Tlu'on Dinck (Klondike), 17
Thunderstorm, 79
Tikara, nativo of Diomcde

Islands, 212
Tingana, Koavi's duugliter, 240
Singing and dancing, 247
"Warns Autlior of orgies, 258
Too Much Crold Creek staked
out, reports of fabulous wealth,
108
Treadwell Mine, Douglas Island,

4
' Trying out ' process of con-
verting whale blubber into
oil, 281
Turner, computes position of

141st meridian, 157
Tuttle, Captain, commanding

' Bear,' 189
Twelve-Mile Creek, Chandindu
river of Schwatka, 147

U.S. ' Bear ' :

Arrives at Fort St. Michael,

189
Author removed to, 288
Author's voyage to San

Francisco in, 289
Description of, 189

3^1

THE GOLP-FTELDS OF ALASKA

m I

, ■/■;;{

{ j' r

.«■

.??

U.S. ' Bear ' :

Despatched to reRcue im-
prisoned whalers, 190
In Onnalaska Harbour, "288
Placed at Author's dinposal,
3, 179
U.y. 'Sodgors' destroyed by :

fire, 175
Upper Yukon. See Yukon river,
Upper j

Walrus caught at Ounnvaidjik,

228
Warren, killed l)y * BowJiead '

whale, 284
Whale :

Blubber, process of ' trying

out,' 281
' Bowhcad,' size and value,

282
Different species of, 282,281
(Eighty barrels in size)
measurements, 288 n.
Whalebone, description of, 288
Whalers :

Crew paid by share of pro-
ceeds, 285
Icebound -Appendix I, 802
Only hope of rescue, 260
W^haling catastrophe of 1897,207
White Horse Rapids, passing, 72
AVhite Pass, 2 ; considered

worse than Chilkoot, 187
White river, 91 ; gold-bearing
quartz, 108 n. ; hissing sound
of, 92
Whiteside, Joseph, of ' Belve-
dere,' 276

Refuses compensation for

rescuing Author, 289
Risk run in rescuing
Author, 278, 289

Whiteside, Mrs., cured of con-
sumption by Arctic voyage,
277
Wills, Surgeon :

Oji complaints common in

Alaska, 122
Report on kind of men re-
quired at lilondikc, 123
Wilson, of Alaska Commercial
Company, home at Fort St.
Michael, 174

Yakoutks, tributary to Tchukt-

chis, 201
' Yeth-Katze,' native name of

Five Fingers Rapids, 80
Yukon district, white population

in 1890, 103
Yu]<on dog a thief, 162
Yukon mines, chmatic con-
ditions of workhig, IIT)
' Yukon Pioneers ' ruling Circle

City, 108
Yukon river :

Blocked by ice, Sept. 28,

116
Goia fourd in 1894, 105
Islands in, 164
Little sport near, 15
State of, in May, 144
Three sections, 105
Yukon river, Lower, fur settle-
ments, 167
Yukon river, Upper :

Obstacles to navigation of,

84
Ramparts, 91
: Yukon Valley :
j Minerals found in, 24

1 Miner's law for thieves,

I 128

I Routes to, 11

HpolUncoodi' i{' Co, I'ruilers, .\eic-strefl S<iimre, Loiuloii.

312

[April 1898.

.44

'ur settle-

1,24
thieves,

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THE PICCADILLY NOVELS.

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By MORT. & FRANCES COLLINS.

By Mrs. ALEXANDER.

ALIftlntereit | Honft'i Choice 1 Bjr Woman'tWlt

By F. M. ALLEN.
Orean u Orau.

By GRANT ALLEN

PtllllBtU

Strange Btoriei.

Babylon.

For Uaimle 8 Sake,

In all Shadei.

The Beckoning Band.

1 he Devils Die.

Thli Mortal Coll.

The Tent* of 8hem.

By MARY
Othello'i Occupation.

By EDWIN
Flira the fhoeniclan.

The Oreat TaLon.
Dumareiq'i Daui;hter.
Duchess of Powysland.
Blood Royal.
Ivan Oreet'i Master-
piece.
The Scallywag
At Market Value.
Under Sealed Orderi.
ANDERSON.

L. ARNOLD.

Constable of Bt. Nicholas.
By ROBERT BARR.
In a Steamer Chair. 1 A Woman Intervenes.
Fiom Whose Bourne. | Revenge I

By FRANK BARRETT.
The Wonanofthp Iron Bracelets.
The Harding Scandal. | A Missing Witness.

By 'BELLE.'
Vafhtl and Esther.
By Sir VV. BESANT and J. RICE.

Ready Money Mortiboy
Mv Little Girl.
With Harp and Crown.
This Son of Vulcan.
The Golden Butterfly.
The Monks of Thelema.

All Sorts

tlons of Men.
The Captains Room.
All in a Garden Fair.
Dorothy Forster.
Uncle Jack.
The World Went Very

Well Then.
C lildren of Glbeon.
Ilerr Paulus.
For Faith and Freedom.
To Call Her Mine.

By Celia's Arbour.
Chaplain of the Fleet.
The Seamy Side.
The Case of Mr. Lucraft.
In Trafalgar s Bay.
The Ten Years' Tenant.
Sir WALTER BESANT.
and Condi. ; The Belt of Bt. Paul s.
The Holy Rose.
Armorel of Lyonesse.
S Katherine s bv Tower
Verbena Camellia Bte-
phanotis.
I The Ivory Gate.
I The Rebel Queen.
Beyond the Dreams of

Avarice.
The Master Craftsman.
I The C.ty of Refuge.

The Revolt of Man

By AMBROSE BIERCE.
In the Midst ot Life,

By PALL BOURQET.
A Living Lie.

By ROBERT BUCHANAN

Shadow of the Sword.
A Child of Nature.
God and the Man.
Martyrdom of Madeline
Love Me for Ever. I

Ann.in Water.
Foxglove Manor. I

ROB. BUCHANAN
The Charlatan.

By J. MITCHELL CHAPPLE
The Minor Chord.

By HALL CAINE.

The Shadow of a Crime
A Son of Hagar.

By ANNE COATES.
Ele's Diary.

By WILKIE COLLINS

The NewAbe:ard.
Matt. I Ra. hel Dene.
Master of the Mine.
The Helrof Linne.
Woman and the Man.
Red and White Heather.
Lady Kilpatrick.
& HY. MURRAY.

I The Deemster.

Armadale. [AfterDark.
No Name. | Antonina
Basil. I Bide and Seek.
The Dead Secret.
Queen of Hearts.
My Miscellanies.
The Woman in White.
The Moonstone.
Man and Wifo.
Poor Miss Finch.
Mls3 or Mrs. 7
The New Magdalen.
The Frozen Deeo.

Tbc Two Destinies.
The Law and the Lady,
The Haunted Hotel.
The Fallen Leaves.
Jezebel's Daughter,
The Black Robe.
Heart and Science.
' I Say No.'
Little Novels.
The Evil Genius.
The Legacy of 0.%iil.
A Rogue's Life,
Blind Love.

Tranimicratlon. | From Midnight to Mid-

Blacksmith * Scholar. night.
The Village Comedy. | Ton Play m« False.

By MACLARBN COBBAN.

The Red Saltan. | The Burden of Isabel.

By E. H. COOPER.

Geoffory Hamilton.

By V. CECIL COTES.

Two Girls on a Barge.

By C. EGBERT CRADDOCK.

Hla Vanished Star.

By H. N. CRELLIN.

Romances of the Old Seraglio.

By MATT CRIM.

Tlie Adventures of a Fair Rebel.

By S. R. CROCKETT and otiiers.

Tales of Our Coast.

CROKER.

The Real Lady RI'da.

Married or Single 7

Two Masters.

In theKlngdom of Kerry

Interference.

A Third Person,

By B. M.

Diani Barrlngton.
Proper Pride.
A F>unlly Likeness.
Pretty Miss Neville,
AB.rd of Passage.
Tu Let.' I Mr. Jervls.
Vi:l.age Tales A Jungle
Trajedies.

By WILLIAM CYPLES

Hearts of Gold.

By ALPHONSE DAUDET

The Evangelist : nr. I'ort Sulvaunii.

By H. COLEMAN DAVIDSON.

Mr. Sadler s Daughters.

By ERASMUS DAWSON.

The Fountain of Youth.

By JAMES DE MILLE.

A Castle in Spain.

By. J. LEITH DERWENT.

Our Lady of Tears. j Circe's Lovers.

By DICK DONOVAN.
Tracked to l3ooni. 1 TheMyslsry of Jamaica

Man from Manchester. 1 Terrace.
Tlie Chronicles of Michael Dauevltch.

By RICHARD DOWLING.
Old Corcoran s Money.

By A. CONAN DOYLE.
The Firm of Oirdicstone.

By S. JEANNETTE DUNCAN.
A Daughter of To day. I Vernons Aunt.
By a. MANVILLE FENN.
The New Mistress. I The Tiger Lily.

Witness to the Deed. I The White Virgin.

By PERCY FITZGERALD
Fatal Zero.

By R. E. FRANCILLON.
One by One. I Ropes of Sand.

A Dog and his Shadow. Jack Doyle s Daughter.
A Real Queen. |

By HAROLD FREDERIC.
Beth's Brother's Wife. | The Lawton Girl.

By PAUL GAULOT.
The Red Shirts.

By CHARLES GIBBON.
Robin Gray. I Of High Dfgree.

Loving a Dream. | The Golden Shaft,

By E. GLANVILLE.
The Lost Heiress. | The Golden Rock.

A Fair Colonist. | Tales from the VelJ.

The Fossicker.

By E.
The Fate of Herbert Wayne.

By Rev. S. BARING GOULD.
Bed Spider. | Eve.

By CECIL GRIFFITH.

Corinthta Maraziou.

J. GOODMAN.

f I

CHATTO & WINDUS, ill St. Martin's Lane, London, W.C.

The Piccadilly (3/G) Novkls— coid/iHff/.

By SYDNEY ORLNDY.

Tb« Dayi of bli Vanltv.

By OWEN MALL.
The Track or a Storm | Jetaam

By THOMAS HARDY.

Under tbe Oreenwood Tree.

By BRET HARTE.

A Waif of the Plains. lA Frot. g6e of Jack
A Ward of the Oolden Hamlin b.

Gate. IBpringa.

A Bappho of Oreen
Col. Btarbottle a Client.
Busy. I Baily Dows.
Bell Ringer of Angela.

Clarence.
Barker a Luck
Devila Ford, ^celsior.'
The Crusade of the ' Ez-
Three Partners.
Tales of Trail and Town.
JULIAN HAWTHORNE.
Beatrix Randolph.
David Poindexters Dis-
appearance.
The Spectre of tbe
Camera.
HELPS.

Oarth.

ElllcoQuentin.
Sebastian Strome.
Dust.
Fortune a Fool.

By Sir

Ivande Biron.

By I. HENDERSON.

Agntha Page.

By G. A. HENTY.
Rnjub the Juggler. I The Queen's Oup.
.Tiorothy a Double. I

By JOHN HILL.
The Common Ancestor.

By TIGHE HOPKINS.
Twlxt Love and Duty

By Mrs. HUNQERFORD

lady Terner's Flight.
The Red'Houae Mystery
The Three Graces.
Professor a Experiment.
A Point of Conscience

Nora Crelna.

An Anxloua Moment.

April 9 Lady.

Peter s Wife.

Lovlce,

By Mrs. ALFRED HUNT.

The Leaden Casket. I Self-Condemned.
That Other Person. | Mrs. Juliet.

By C. J. CUTCLIFFE HYNE.
Honour of Thieves.

By EDMOND LEPELLETIER.
Madame Sans Otne.

By HARRY LINDSAY.
Rhoda Roberta.

By HENRY W. LUCY.
Gideon Fierce.

By E. LYNN LINTON.

The Atonement of Learn

Dnndas.
The World Well Lost.
Tbe One Too Many,
Dulcla Everton.
MCCARTHY.
Donna Quixote.
Hold of Athens.
Tbe Comet of a Beaton.
Tbe Dictator.
Red Diamonds.
Tbe Riddle Ring.
The Three Diagraces.

McCarthy.

Patricia Kemball.
Under which Lord 7
' My Love I ' I lone.
Fasten Carew.
Sowing the Wind.

By JUSTIN
A Fair Saxon.
Linley Rochford
Dear Lady Disdain.
Camlola

Waterdale Neighbours.
My Enemy's Daughter.
Mlaa Misanthrope.

By JUSTIN H.
A London Legend. I Tbe Royal Christopher.

By aEORGB MACDONALD.
Heather and Snow. | Phantaites.
By PAUL & VICTOR MAROUERITTE
The Disaster

By L. T. MEADE.
A Soldier of Fortune. I Tbe 'Voice of the
In an Iron Grip. I Charmer.

By L. T. MEADE and CLIFFORD
HALIFAX, M.D.
Dr. Bomtey'a Patient.

By LEONARD MERRICK.
Tbls Stage of Fools | Cynthia.

By BERTRAM MITPORD
Tbe Gnn-Ronner. | Tbe King's Assegai.

Tbe Luck of Gerard Renshaw Fanning*
Eidgeley. I Quest.

By J. E. MUDDOCK.

Maid Harlan and Robin Hood.
Basils the Jester. | Young Lochinvar.

By p. CHRISTIE MURRAY.

Cvnic Fortune.
The Way of tbe World.
BobMarttn a Little Girl
Time's Revenges.
A Wasted Crime.
In Direst Peril.
Mount Despair.
A Capful o Nails.
Tales and Poems.

and HERMAN.

Paul Jones s AUai,

A Life's Atonement,
Joseph's Coat,
Coals of Fir*.
Old Blazer's Hero.
Val Strange. | Hearts.
A Model Father.
By tbe Gate of tbe Sea.
A Bit of Haman Nktnre,
First Person Singular.

By MURRAY

The Bishops' Bible.
One Traveller Returns.

By HUME NISBET.

' Ball Up t '

By W. E. NORR4S.

Saint Ann's. | Billy Bollew.

By G. OHNET.

A Weird Gift.

By Mrs. OLIPHANT.

The Sorceieti,

By OUIDA

Held in Bondatte.

Strathmore.

Chandos.

Under Two Flags.

Idalia. [Oage.

Cecil Caatlemalne'a

Trlcotrln. | Fuck,

FoUe Farlne.

A Dog of Flanders.

Pascarel. I Blgna.

Princess Naprazlne.

Ariadne.

Two Little Wooden

In a Winter City. Shoei

Friendship,

Moths. I RnSno.

Fipistrella.

A Village Commnne,

Blmbi. I Wanda,

Frescoes, | Othmar.

In Maremma.

Byrlln. { OuUderoy.

Santa Barbara,

Two Offenders.

By MARGARET A. PAUL.

Gentle and Simple.

By JAMES PAYN.

High Spirits.
Under One Roof.
Glow-worm Tales.
The Talk of the Town,
Holiday Tasks.
For Cash Only.
The Burnt Million.
The Word and the WIU.
Sunny Stories.
A Trying Patient,

Lost Sir Maasingberd.
Lets Black than We're

Painted,
A Confidential Agent.
A Grape from a Thorn.
In Peril and Privation,
The Mystery of Mir-
By Proxy, [bridge.
The Canon's Ward,
Walter's Word,

By WILL PAYNE.

Jerry the Dreamer,

By Mrs. CAMPBELL PRAED.

Outlaw and Lawmaker, I Mrs. Tregaskia3.
Christina Chard. |

By E. C. PRICE.
Valentlna, | Foreigners, I Mrs. Lancaster a Rival.

By RICHARD PRYCE.
Miss Maxwell's Affections.

By CHARLES READE.

Peg WoSlngton ; and
Christie Johnstone,

Hard Cash,

Cloister ft the Hearth,

Never Too Late to Mend

The Course of True
Love Never Did Run
Smooth ; and Single-
heart andDonbleface,

Autobiography of a
Thief; Jfack of all
Trades ; A Hero and
a Martyr; and Tbe
Wandering Heir.

Griffith Gannt,

By Mrs,

Weird Stories.

Love Me Little, Love
Me Long.

The Double Marriage.

Foul Flay.

Put Yourself in His
Place,

A Terrible Temptation.

A Simpleton.

A WomanHater.

The Jilt, >V ctherSlories :
& Good Storie.-iof Man
and other Animals,

A Perilous Secret.

Readiana ; and Bible
Characters,

J. H. RIDDELL.

Barbara Deri
By

By AMELIE

ering.

RIVES.

F. W.

The Hands of Justice,

ROBINSON.

I Woman in the Dark.

OCK.

LoehinTar.

lURRAY.

Fortune.

'ay of the World.

urtln a Little Olrl

I Revongei.

ited Crime,

eit Peru.

t Deapalr.

ifal Nalla.

and Foemi.

lERMAN.

lonei ■ AUai.

BET.

IR4S.

BoUew.

3T.

lANT.

Little Wooden
KTlDterClty. Bhoei
deblp.

B. I Rnfflno.
trello.

lage Conmane.
1. I Wanda,
oes. I Othmar.
iremma.

n. I Ouilderoy.
k Barbara.
3SenderB.

k. PAUU

\YN.

Spirlte.
r One Roof,
•worm Tales.
Calk of the Town,
lay Tasks,
lash Orly.
Jiimt Million.
Vord and the Will,
y Stories,
ring Pationt.

L PRAI-D.

Tregasklaa.

ICE.

Lancaster s Rival.

RYCE.

BADE.

Me Little, Love
.Long.

Double Marriage.
Play.

Yourself In Bla

rrlble Temptation.

npleton.

iman-Hater.

lit, & otherSipries :

>od Storie.'^ of Man

other Animals,

rllous Secret.

lana ; aiv.l Bible

iracters.

DDELL.

IVES.

NSON.

an in the Dark.

CHATTO & WINDUS, iii St. Martin's Lane, London, W.C.

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I The Drift of FaU.

In the Middle Watch
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Doris and I.

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Stolen White Elephant,

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Tom Sawyer Abroad.

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UUtreas Judith.

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Lady Bell. I The Macdonald La*i.

Burled Diamonds. The WltchWlfe.

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The Queen against Owen | The Prince of Balklstan

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The Express Messenger,

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Sou of Belial.

By ATHA WESTBURY,

The Shadow of BUton Fembrook,

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An Eaiy-golng Fellow,

By JOHN STRANG B WINTER.
Cavalry Life and Regimental Legends,
A Soldier's Children,

By MARQARET WYNMAN.
My FUrtatloni.

By B. ZOLA.
The Fortune of the Rongons.
The Abbe Uouret'i Transgression

The DownfaU.
The Dream.
Dr. Pascal.

Honey. | Lonrdei.
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A Hlneteenth Century Miracle.

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The Fellah.

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Oarr of Carrlyon. I Confidences.

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Hald. Wife, or Widow? I A Life Interest.
Blind Fate. Mona's Choice.

Valerie's Fate. | By Woman's Wit.

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miUtta. I Babylon
Strange Stories.
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In all Shades.
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The Tents of Shem.,
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nra the Phoenician,

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Dumaresq's Daughter.
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Blood RoyaL [piece-
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Fettered for Life.
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Between Life & Death,
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Uent. Barnabas,
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A Prodigal s Progress.
Found uuUty.
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John Ford, &c.
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itle "

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leady.

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All In a Garden Fair.

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Uncle Jack.

The World Went Very
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Children of Gibeon.

Herr Paulus,

For Faith and Freedom.

To Call Her Mine.

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phanotls.
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Avarice.
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la the iSlitt of Life.

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<otes. Chronicles of Homan's

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BRET HARTB.

Flip. I Uar^Ja.

A Phyllis 0/ the Sierras.
A Waif of the Plains,
Ward of Ooldia OaU.

Camp Hoi
Savage Life.

BY
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Gabriel Oonroy.
Luck of Roaring Camp.
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Lady Kllpatrlck.

The 0(enuter.

Tlncl* Sam at Home.

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Shadow <.f the 8word.
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Love Mr for Ever.
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For the Love of a Lane.

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Paul FerroU.

Why Paul FerroU Killed hla Wife.

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The

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Sar Siniiter.

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ight with Fortnne.

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No Name.

Antonlna.

Baell.

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Diana Barrington.

•To Let.'

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By W

Hearts of Gold.

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The Evangelist ; or, Port Salvation.

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The Fountain of Youth.

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A Castle in Spain.

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Our Lady of Tears. I Circe s Lovers.

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In th* Grip of the Law
From InformaUoa E»

cslved.
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Link by Unk
Bttsplclon AroaM4b
Dark Deeds.
Riddles Read.

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The Man-Hunter.
Tracked and Taken.
Caught at Last I
Wanted I
Who Poisoned Hetty

Duncan 7
Han from Manchester.
A Detective's Triumphs
The Mystery of Jamaica terrace.
The Chronicles of Michael Danevitch.

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A Point of Honour. | Archie Lovell.

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Felicia. I Kitty.

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Roxy.

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The New Mistress.

Witness to the Deed.

I The Tiger Lily.
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Bella Donna.
Never Forgotten.
Polly.
Fatal Zero.

FITZGERALD.
I Second Mrs. TlllotsoB.
seventy ■ live Brook*
Street.
I The Lady of Brantoa*

By P. FITZGERALD and others.

Strange Secrets.

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Filthy Lucre.

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Olympla.
One by One.
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Seth's Brother s Wife.

King or Knave?
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FREDERIC

The Lawton Olrl.

Prefaced by Sir BARTLE FRERE.

Pandurang Harl.

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The Capel Girls,

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A Strange Manuscript.

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Robin Gray, In Honour Bound,

Fancy Free.

For Lack of Gold.

What will World Say 7

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For the King.

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A Heart's Problem.

The Dead Heart,

Flower of the Forest.
The Braes of Yarrow.
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A Hard Knot.
Heart's Delight,
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Dr. Austin's Guests. I The Wizard of til*
James Duke. | Mountain.

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The Lost Heiress. I The Fosslcker,

A Fair Colonist. |

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Red Spider, | Eve.

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A Noble woman, | Nikanor,

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Corlntbla Marazion,

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The Days of his Vanity.

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Brneton's Bayou. | Country Lock

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DVAN.

« Qrtp of the Law

I lorormtUea E»

Tad.

k«d to Doom.

bjrUnk
lolon Atoiim4>

Dceda.
It! Read.
ace.
levltcb.

tWARDBS.

it Lovell.
DWARDS.

ILESTON

3 FENN.

Tlaer LllT.
White Virgin.

iBRALD.

id Mn. TlllotiOB.

sty ■ &v* Brook*

eet.

Uidy Of BrantoB*

and others.
SBLANQUe.

JLLON.

or Knave?
incei or the Law.
■ of Band.
g and hU Shadow,

BDERIC

[jiwton Olrl.
PLB FRBRE.

RRETT.
JAUL.

IB BON.

>iiour Bound.
;r of the Foreit.
tra«a of Yarrow,
jolden Shaft,
gh Degree,
ead and Stream,
g a Dream,
rd Knot.

8 Delight.

Money.

LBERT.

wizard of Ux*

in tain.

NVILLE.

ouicker.

i QOULD.

VILLE.

lor.

PITH.
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3RT0N.

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.LI DAY.
\RDY.

CHATTO A WINOUS, in St. Martin'* Lane, London, W.C.

TwO-SlllLLINO NOVEI.8— COM^MIICI*.

By JULIAN HAWTHORNE.

Beatrix Randolph.
Love— or a Name.
Uavld Polndexter ■ Dli-

appearanue.
The Bpectr* of the

Camera.

(Varth

Eillce Qnentla.

Fortune • Fool.

Mill Oadogna.

Subaatlan Btrom*

Ouit.

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Ivan do Blron.

By a. A. HENTY.

Eujnb tho Juggler.

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A Leading Lady.

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Zambra the Detective.

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Treason Felony.

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The Lover • Creed.

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The Uoiue of Raby.

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Tlie Three Oracei
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Ladv Patty.
Nora Celna.
The Fro.'eiior'i Experi-
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A Halden all Forlorn.

In Durance Vile,

Marvel.

A Mental Btrnggle.

A Modern Circe.

Lady Verner'8 Flight

The Bed Home Myitei y

By Mr». ALFRED HUNT.

Thornlcrofta Model, I Self Condemned.
Tliat Other Ferion. | The Leaden Casket,

By WM. JAMESON.

My Dead Self.

By HARRIETT JAY.

The Dark Colleen. | Quren or Corn.

By MARK KERSHAW.
Oolonlal Fact! and Flctlone.

By R. ASHE KINQ.

A Drawn Oame. I Passion s Slav*.

The Wearing of the Bell Barry.
Green.' I

By EDMOND LEPELLETIER.

Madame Bans Oene.

By JOHN LEYS.

The Lindsays.

By E. LYNN LINTON.

Patricia Kemball

The World Well Lost.

Under which Lord t

Faston Carew.

■ My Love I '

lone.

With a Silken Thread, i

By HENRY

Oldeo Fleyce.

By JUSTIN
Dear Lady Disdain.
Waterdale Nelghbouri.
My Enemy's Oanghter.
Aralr Baxon.
Linler Roobford.
Hiss lIlMuithrope.
Camlol*.

By HUGH
Mr,

The Atonement of Learn

Dundas.
Rebel of the Family,
Bowini; the Wind.
The One Too Many,
Dulcie Everton.

W. LUCY.

McCarthy.

Donna Quixote,
Maid of Athens.
The Comet of a Seaion,
The Dictator.
Red Diamonds,
The Riddle Ring.

MACCOLL.

Stranger's Sealed Packet.

By aEORGB MACDONA.LD.

Heather and Snow.

By AQNBS MACDONBLL.

Quaker w

MACQUOID.

I Lost ROM.

By KATHARINE S.
The Evil Eye. | Loi

By W. H. MALLOCK.

A Romance of the Nine- 1 The Mew Repnbllo.
tetntb OtBtary. 1

By J. MASTERMAN.

Half a dozen Daughters.

By BRANDBR MATTHEWS.

A Secret of the Sea.

By L, T. MEADE.
A Soldier of Fortnne.

By LEONARD MERRICK.

The Man who was Oood.

By JEAN MIDDLEMASS.

Touch and do. | Mr. DorilUon.

By Mrs. MOLESWORTH.

Hathtrcourt Rectory,

By J. E. AlUDDOCK.

Stories Weird and Won I From the Bosom of tb*

derfnl. Deep.

The Dead Man's Secret. |

By D. CHRISTIE MURRAY.

A Bit or Human Nature.
Flrnt Person HlnnuUr.
Bob M.irtln a Little Olrl
Tlmos Reveng.s.
A Wasted Crime.
In Ulreit Peril.
Mount Despair
A Oaprnl o Nails.

A Model Father.

Joseph s Coat.

Coals of Fire.

Val Strange | Rearti.

Old Blaxer s H»ro.

The Way or tho World.

Cyulc Fortune.

A Lire s Atonement.

By the Date of the Bea.

By MURRAY and HERMAN.

One Traveller Returns. I The Bishops Bible,
Paul Jones s Alias. |

By HENRY MURRAY.

A Oame of Blu3. | A Bong of Bixptnct,

By HUME NISBET.
'BaliUpr I Or.BsrnardSt. Vincent.

By W. E. NORRIS.
Baint Ann s.

By ALICE O'HANLON.

The Unforeseen. | Chance 7 or Fate t

By QBORQES OHNET.
Dr. Rameau, I A Weird Qift,

A Last Love, |

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Whiteladies. | The Oreatest Heiress la

TLe Primrose Path. | England.

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Fhcaba s Fortunes.

By OUIDA.

Held in Bondage.

Strathmore.

Chandos.

Idalla.

Under Two Flags.

Cecil Castlemaine sOage

Trlcotrln.

Puck.

Folle Farina.

A Dog of Flanden.

Pascarel.

Slgna.

Princeu Napraxlna.

In a Winter City.

Ariadne.

Friendship.

Two Lit. Wooden Shoes.
Moths.
Blrobi.
PIplstreUo.
A Village Commas*.
Wanda.
Othmar
Frescoes.
In Maremnuk
Oullderoy.
Rufflno.
Byrlin.

Santa Barbara.
Two Offenders.
Oulda's Wisdom, Wit,
and Pathos.

By MARGARET AQNBS PAUL.

Qentl* and Simple.

By EDQAR A. POB.

The Mystery of Maria Roget.

By Mrs. CAMPBELL PRAEO.

The Romance of a Station.

The Soul of Ooantass Adrian.

Outlaw and Lawmaker.

Christina Obard. | Mrs. TrasaaUM.

„ , , By E. C. PRICE.

Valentin*. I Mrs. LaacMtar-s HlraL

The Foreigners. | Oarald.

By RICHARD PRYCB.
M ss Maxwell's AlfecUoas.

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Tlia ClyUkTda of Clyfl*.

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Owendollne s Harveat,
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The Myitary of Mlr-

brldge.
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A Prince of the Blood.
A Trying Fatleut.

Uy CHARLES READti.

It la Never Too Lata to

Mend
Chiliti'! Johnctona.
TUe Doable Marriage.
Put Yooraelf In Hla

Place
Love Ma Little, Love

Me Long.
Tha Cloliter and the

Hearth.
The Couraa of Trne

Leva.
Tha Jilt.
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a Thief.

By Mrs. J.
Weird Btoriaa.
Fairy Water.
Her Mother'a Darling.
The Prlnca of Walesa

Garden Party.

By AMELIE RIVES.
Barbark Derinfr.

By F. W. ROBINSON.
Women are Strange. I Tha Woman in the Dark
The Hands of Justice. |

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Skippers and Shellbacks. | School! and Scholar*,
Grace Balmaicn s Sweetheart.

By W. CLARK RUSSELL.
Round the Gallejr Fire. { An Ocean Tragedy.

A Terrible Temptation.

Foul Play.

The Wandering Hair.

Hard Cash.

Slngleheu t and Donble-

facn.
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other Animals.
Peg Wofflugton.
Orrtllth Oaunt.
A Perilous Secret
A Simpleton,
Readiana.
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I The Uulnhabiteu House.

The Mystery in Palace
I Gardens.

The Nun s Curs*.

Idle Tales.

On the Fo'k'sle Head.

In the Middle Watch.

A Voyage to the Cape.

A Book for the Ham-
mock.

The Mystery of the
■Ocean Star.' I

The Romance of Jenny
Harlowe. I

By DORA

A Country Sweetheart.
By OEORQB Al

QasUght and DayUgh*
By QEOl

The Ring o Bella.

Mary Jane's UemolTk

MaryJana Married.

Tties of To day.

Uvamai of Life.

f<nkletop'i Crlm*.

'jSv Two Wives.

Hy Shipmate Louise.
Alone on Wide Wide Sra.
The Good Bliip 'Mo-
hock.'
The Phantom Death.
Is Ha the Man.
Heart of Oak.
The Cor M"

RL.c

ALA.

.MS.

uolrs of a Landlady.

I „jeneB from the Show.

The 10 Commandments.

Dagonet Abroad.

Bognas and Vagabondi.

Bjy ARTHUR SKETCHLEY.

A Match In tha Dark.

By HAWLEY SMART.

mthont Love or Licence. I Tha FInngar.
B<iatrlce and Benedick. I Long Odda.
Tht- Master of Kathkellj, 1

By T. W. SPEIQHT.

The Hysterias of Raroa i Back to Life

Tha LondwaterTragaty,
Burgo s Romance.

: Qalttanca in Full.

' A Huband from tha Baa

ST. AUBYN.

Orchard Damerel.

In the Face of tha World.

Tha Tramlatt DlaBOBd^

Dyke
The Golden Hoop.
Hoodwinked.
By Devious Ways.

By ALAN

A Fellow of Trinity.
The Junior Dean.
Master of St Benedict's
To His Own Master.

By R. A. STBRNDALB.

The Afghan Knife.

By R. LOUIS STEVENSON.

Mew Arabian Nlgbta.

By BERTHA THOMAS.

Cresslda. | The Violin Play ar

Frond Malsle. |

By WALTER THORNBURY.

Tales for the Marines. | Old Stories Retold.

By T. ADOLPHUS TROLLOPE.

Diamond Cat Diamond.

By F. ELEANOR TROLLOPB.

Like Ships upon the I Anne Fnmess.
Sea. I Mabel's Progreu.

By ANTHONY TROLLOPE.

Frau Frohmamn,
Miirlon Fay.
Kept In the Dark.
John Caldlgaie.
The Way We Live Now.

The Land Leaguers.
Tha American Senatof,
Mr. Bcarborongbs

Family.
QoldenUon of QraaptT*

11 S Fol

J. T. TROWBRIDGE.

Fornell s Folly.

By IVAN TURQENIEFF, &c

Stories from Foreign Novelists.

By MARK TWAIN.

A Pleasure Trip un the

Continent.
The Glided Age.
Huckleberry Finn.
M,%i kTwain s Sketches.
Tom Sawyer.
A Trainp Abroad.
Stolen White Elephant.

By C. C. FRASER-TYTLER,

Mistress Judith.

By SARAH TYTLER

Life on the Mlulsslpnl
The Prince and tne

Pauper.
A Yankee at the Cob

of King Arthur.
The £l,!>00,00d Ba;^

Note.

Tlic Brido s Pass.
Buried Diamonds.
St. Mungo s City,
Lady Bell,
Noblesse Oblige.
Disappeared.

By ALLEN

The Queen against Owen

The Huguenot Fam!?F.
The Blackhall Ghosts.
What BheCameThrough
Beauty and the Beast.
Citoyenna Jaqualine.

UPWARD.

Prince of Balkletaa.

' God Save the Queen I '
By AARON WATSON and LILLIAS

WASSERMANN.

The Marquis of Oarabas.

By WILLIAM WESTALL.

Trust- Money.

By Mrs. F. H. WILLIAMSON.

A Child Widow.

By J. S. WINTER.

Cavalry Life, | Regimental Legends,

By H. F. WOOD.

The Passenger from Scotland. Yard.
The Engllsliman of the Rue Cain,

By CELIA PARKER WOOLLEY.

Bachel Armstrong ; or, Love and Theology,

By EDMUND YATES.

The Forlorn Hope. I Castaway,

Land at Last. |

By I. ZANQWILL.

Ohetto Tragedies. ^:..-..^

OQDBN, SMALB KZiE CO. LIUITED, PRINTERS, GREAT SAFFRON HILL, LCa

IHT.

Life.

dwaterTrkgt^y,
Ilomanca.
ic* la Full.
indfromthtSM
IBYN.
. Uamerel.
kce of tha World
mlattDluMBdA

>ALB.

ENSON.

MAS.

in PUytT.

SBURY.
t«i Ratold.

OLLOPE.

JLLOPB.

imaii.
Progren.

XOPE.

idLaaguara.
arlcan Banatcr,
carboroagb •
y.
JonofOrMiptT*

IDQB.
2FF, &c

IN.

the Mluliiippl

inca and tn*

Ki at the Court

g Arthur. /

i.aoo.ood BxA.

YTLER.
,ER.

[uenot Family,
:lihiiU OhoitB.
leCamsThroagh
Euid the Beast.
]a Jaquallne.

^RD.

of BalklBtaa.

d LILLIAS

TALL.

AMSON.

ER.

tal Legend*.

D.
rd.

boLLEY.

Theology.

FES.

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