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NEW-YORK: GOODRICH & WILEY, 124 BROADWAY //^^ r i A (_ [Entered accordingto an Act of Congress, in the year 1834, by Goodrich & Wiley, in tlie Clerk's Office of the Dis- trict Court of the United States for the Southern Distnict of New- York.] MAHLON DAY, PRINTER, 374 PEARL STREET. V ^../.v PREFACE. The present fifth edition of the Northern Travel- ler has been revised with care, and in many parts written over entirely anew. Abridgments have been made as far as was considered consistent with usefulness, and thus space has been found for the introduction of much matter not found in former edi- tions. Every important improvement, especially on the principal routes, it has been the intention of the author to introduce ; and the novel modes of travel- ling, and various new objects of attraction, have re- quired additions in almost every page. The Western Traveller^ which will be found as a distinct appendix to the work, now appears for the first time : the increased travelling and emigiation to the West requiring the addition of this now im- portant department to the traveller's book. The in- formation and directions it contains are derived from the most authentic sources, and carefully condensed and arranged in such a manner as to render them most convenient for reference on the route. Numerous prints and maps complete the recom- mendations of this book, which it is the intention of the author to render useful to the utmost of his power. • -iii*' I t I 1^ ^-v ' n-^J»'* INDEX, Abraham, Plains of - - 194 Academy of Arts, N. Y. - H Albany . - . . 34 Albany i. Schenectady Railroad 37 Alexandria, (D. C) - - 33-:? Alton 293. Ainesbury - - 318 Amherst College, (Mass.) - '241 Andover, (.VI ass.) - - - 2H7 Andre and Arnold - - 24 Animals in tlie west - - 390 Anthony's Nose - - 22 Do da - - - 49 Antiquities - 63. 72. 9f». ^3 Aqueducts - - 47. 53. fi5 Auburn and state prison - 104 Augusta ... - 327 Avon Springs - - . 9b n Baker's Falls - - - 209 Ballston springs - 117. 120 Baltimore - - - - 339 Do and Ohio Railroad - 34 1 Bangor 326. Bartle t 303 Beitavia 98 Bath 324 Battery (N. Y.) - , . 9 BaUle of Balimore - - 340 -— — of Bridgewater - 80 of Chippewa - - 79 of Erie - - 68 of Lake George 135.137 ■ o/ Montmorency - 200 ofPlatts''urgh - 157 ofQ, eenstown - - 71 of Stillwater - - 113 of Ticonderog^ - - 139 of White Plains - 18 ofTreutoa - - 371 Bellow's Falls ... 246 Bemis's Heights ... 112 Bernaidston 245 Berthier 179 Bethlehem 364 Beverly 314 Big %>tream Point and Falls - 101 Bissel Farm - - - 232 Biackstone Canal - • .. 261 Blackwell's Island Penitentinry 21 1 Blackrock 04 Blue Hills 270 Booihbay 325 Bordentown 363 Boston 271 and vicinity - 278 Brattleborongh 246 Bris ol - 362 Broadway (N. Y.; - - 10 Brock s Monument _ - 71 Brookfield 283 Brooklyn 14 Brotliertown 59 Duel's Farm 37 Buffalo - - - - O."? Burgoyne's expedition HI to il6 Burlington - - 87. 156. 362 Burning Springs - - - 99 Butlers Falls 29 Bytown 173 c Caldwell 132 Cambridge 279 (anulen and Amhoy Railroad 370 Canada 39 Canajoharie 50 Canandaigua - - - - 99 Cape Diamond - 183 194 Carpenters Point - - - 29 Carthaj,'e 60 Cattskill Mountains 30 Caughnawaga - - - 48 Cayuga and Seneca Canal - 103 Lake - - - 103 Centre Harbor - - - 293 Chambly - - - - 209 Charleston (S. C) - - - 335 ('harlestown . - - 247 Chaudierc Point - - - 183 Ch;izy 157 Chelmsford 290 Chemung Canal - - - 101 Chesapeak & Delaware Canal 353 & Ohio Canal - 331 Cincinnati 396 Claverack 34 Climate of the west - 391.377 C.hoes Falls ... 46 Coal Mines (Pa.) • - 355 Cold Spring ... - 23 Columbia College - - H Concord - - - - 290 Connecticut School Fund - 213 State Prison - 225 Conway 298 Crown Point 152 D Dam near Fort Edward • 209 Dartmouth College - - 251 I i i f ,! 4 K 6 Dcdlmin SfiO ncfirficl.l Delaware & Hutlson (^iiiial — Water Gap Detroit - - . - Dismal Swamp Canal Dorr liestt;r Heights JJretidea 101 Diiiidas East Kloonfield . ('aiia(iii Creek iNnt:x. Of.-, 'MVA :m 27H 87 no 50 2:n 211 . :v2i 4r> • Iladdain - - - —— Hartford — — River . - - Kastport :J2fi East on Kdiien in N Lag. 213. 277 291. P-rie Canal - - - U'l do do Itinerary of see Ronles ia Traveller's Directory, p. 414 Expenses in travelling 381. 382. 383 F Falls (Glenns) (Maker's) 209 Montmorenci Magara '— — Trenton 55 Farmers, advice to Fishkill Ithaca 129 104 197 69 to 79 (Turner's) 241 - 381 20 Foroign Packets from New-York 13 Fort Anne l>rio Miller Plain Lee Edward Hill ( 'swego Putnam 207 88 209 50 17 tTrumbull it Griswold Wm. Henry " ■ Washington - (^ Gallop Mnnds 94 Geology 297. 310 German Flntts - Georgetown 332 Greenfield 243 Gulf Road 208 251) 92 23 2rj8 179 17 Gasport Geneva 68 100 53 Glenn's Falls 129 Guelph 86 - 249—250 H Iladdara 221 Harlem Heights Hanover 251 Haml)u»-gh Hampton 3i7 Hartford Haverhill - - 252. Haystack Mountain Health of the west - Herkirner 54 Hector Falls Highlands 21 Hell Gate Hoboken 14. 11 Honesdalc 17 360 226 283 254 392 102 212 29 Hotels and Boarding houses N. Y. 9 Honseof P,ef go - • 13 I hid -on City ... - 33 Kivt'r stran)l>oat8 - 11. IG Hunt Farm 247 Hyde Park 27 I Innndiition, White Alonntains 301-2 l-slc au.v Noi.s - - - 158 Ithar.i II! 1 \' Owogo Railroad 104 Falls - - - 101 J Jaoqnes Cat tier - - - 182 .Ja' vi«'« Faun - - - 248 J(!Wir William, - 49 Kingston .... 27 Li Lackawana River . . 29 Lachii'O .... 171 Lake Georffe 131 Lakes 87 of the Clouds - - 310 St Peter - - - 180 Lnicaster 254 Laprairic 163 Lead Aline - - - ^36. 298 Lel)anon Springs - - 38 Lehigh Water Gap - - 365 Lexington 286 Little Falls 51 Lockpoit 68 Long Branch 17 Long Island 14 Long Level 54 l.ovell'sPond - - - 300 Lorette, village of - - 201 Lowrytown - - - . 366 Lowell 238— 290 Lynn - 314 Manufactories in New England 268 Manayunk 358 Marblehead 316 Alauch rhunk - - . 365 Meredith ... 993 M^rrim ick River ... 292 .'Michigan ... 384 ■Mi Idletown 223 McRea 208 AMIier's Kails 209 Missouri R. 391 Montreal .... 164 i^lohawk Castle 50 Mount Carbon 301 Vernon Wa.sliington Morristown 93 Holyoke 237 - 333 307 to 311 IVahant X N sliiia Village - 279 290 Natchez - - - - 398 Newark 15 New Brunswick 373 Newburgh . . _ 26 Ncwcustle & Frenchtown R. R.338 ^ '.r*,^ . 13 - 33 H - 11 . ir» c Park t27 UiiiiH 301-2 . 158 Iioiid 1U4 - 101 . 182 . 248 . 2P3 - 49 - 27 . 29 - 171 akes 87 • 310 - 180 rairic 163 ii36. 298 - 38 - 365 c Falls 51 Branch 17 Level 54 . 300 . 201 . 306 - 314 Ingland 268 elicad 316 • 365 . 993 . 293 • 3H4 lea 208 uri R 391 . 164 ristown 93 yoke 2;n . 333 307 to 311 ^ 979 - 290 . 393 swick 373 - 26 R. Ivi33() ^ INDEX. Nrw Kn;rlnn«l,ToMrof - - 210 Newldiryport 317 Newport 263 New Ifiivnii - - otchorVVIi Mountains 305 to 306 o 59 10 37d 29< 58 . 92 1(11 Objects in New- York 0:denbl)urgh 94 Oliio Valley Old Man of tlie Mountain Oneida Cisile, - dswe^fo 92 &. Canal Overslaugh 34 Ovid P Talisadoa 17 Park Passaic Falls 15 I'aterson Pawtucket 269 Pemigcwassct 293 Pennsylvania Canul - - 354 I'ennyan - - - - Hfl Philadelphia - - 345 to 353 do steamboats to - - 9 Pine Orchard 31 l'«iiinfield 203 Fittsburph 395 riynioutli 281 It 15 riuttsburgh Portland Point Aux Trembles 150 320 182 Tort Carbon 361 Genesee 91 ■• 156 Poughkeepsie 27 - 372 ■ 304 266 Portsmoutii 318 Port I>alhousio85 Kent Tottsgrove 358 Princeton Prospect Mountain Providence Quebec Quincy Railway R Randolph - Rapid«orSt.Lawrencel60.176. 181 of Niagara - - - 75 Red Mountain - - - 294 Rensseliaerwyck - - - 42 Rideau Canal - - 173 Ridge Road 68 Rochester 61 Rockaway Hotel and Beach 14 Rocky Hill - - - - 224 Rome 58 Roxbury 27o Koyalton - - - - 249 1 84 to 200 - 270 249 RoUTKS lly Hudson River - - 11 18 For travelling ... 15 From Albany to Springs - lli9 A\il)urn to Syracn.se - 106 do 95 . do to Albany - 94 Norfolk to VVa-.hinf.'ton 337 do to Balti'n! by st. bt. 337 do to Kichm'd I)y do 337 Norwich to Providence 262 Portland - - 323. 324 (hiebec to Bcston - 201 do to .Montrenl by land 202 Richmond to Washington 337 t'avannah to Charleston 334 Schenectady to Albany by canal - - - 108 St. Johns to Whitehall 203 Syracuse to I'tica - 107 Utica to Schenectady - 107 VVateiford to the Springs 109 Worcester • - 231 Whitehall - - - 206 Through New England - 210 To Canada - - - -146 to 84 the Coal Mines - - ?55 — — do do Lehigh - 357 do do Mauch Chunk 362 liake George - - 128 Spring and Fal's . 36 St. l..ouis, via Lake Erie 383 do from N.York - 383 the Western Country - 380 Routes, Remarks on, - - 126 Route up Connecticut R. 220 to 254 8 INDEX. N Socketts IJurbor - - 03 Sa nin -JN Salinn <)l Salt Spi iii^'8 Sc suit tnaiiiif actor's f)!) Saiuly Hill - ' - I'-J'.^ Surntoga Springs - liJI to I'JI Lako Savannah 'SM Sayhrook 2\>i liiO .'{() 182 1«>9 l.)n 177 3!I7 37 48 125 8aiigertic8 R St. Antuino St. AupiistiiK! - - - 8t (.'atliariues 85 St. Helens St .lolins . - - - St Lawrence River - St. Louis . - - - Scheiioctady 47 Si. Railroad Scholnnie Creek - - - Sclmylerville - - - Schuylkill Canal - - 356— 3.=>7 do V^ ater Gap - 360 Seneca Castle 97 Si. Lake Shaker's Village, Lebanon, Simpson 8 Farm - Sleepy H.»llow - Sodus Bay - - - Soil of the west Sorel - - - - South Carolina Rnil Road Had ley l-alla Springfield Stafford Springs Starkie's I'oint Staten Island State Prison 20. 104 Stonington 258 Stafford! opperas works Susquehanuah Railroad - Syracuse . - - - T Tappan 20 Tarrytown Taunton 267 Thomaslown 325 Three Rivers - - - 180 1'liousand Islands Ticonderoga Timber of the west - Trenton Falls Trenton (N. J.) lOi 41 120 20 91 3H9 179 335 235 . 233 228 - 101 - 14. 373 Stillwater 110 Stoney Pt. 21 2.52 343 59 20 91 144 388 55 370 Troy 44 Union Canal College IT Turi.er's Falla - 350. 47 1,'tica 241 358 54 42 45 245 21 338 -203 140-143 United States Arsenal Van Rensselaer School Vermont 250 Vernon Vorplanck's Point V'rgiiiia Sprinps Voyage on L Champlain 150 (ieorge w VVadswortk I ariu . . 98 Waldoborough . • . 325 Walpolo .... 246 Washington 328 it College 227 Watchusett Hills . . .231 Welles .... 319 Wei land Canal . . .81 West Itloonifield . . 99 Westminster .... 246 West Point ... 23 Western History . . . 386 . Schools . . 394 States . . 394—385 — — Steamboats . . 388 Traveller Weather Wethersfield . Whirlpool, r^iagara River Whitehall White Mountains River 374- -382 394 224 72 205 304 to 312 . 240 Willard's Academy, Troy . 45 "" .305 232. 248 338 Willey House Windsor Winds in the west Winnipiseogee Lake Wiscasset . Wolfe s Cove Statue Worcester Y Yale College York 182 294 324 196 188 230 SI 4 87 ,'ticu Tvl 42 THK 9n ge 45 245 2J 333 150—203 14U-143 98 325 246 227 ^31 319 . 81 99 . 246 23 . 386 394 3S4— 385 388 374_-:i82 394 . 224 72 205 304 to 312 . 249 r. 45 305 »232. 248 338 . 294 324 182 196 183 . 230 er 214 87 NORTHERN TRAVELLER. THE CITY OF NEW- YORK. Hotels and Boarding Houses. (Beginning near the Battery.) The Atlantic, Adelphi, Mansion House, (Bunker's,) Mrs. Keese's, Miss Boyd's, Miss Mann's, the National, City Hotel, Webb's, Franklin Housp, American, (opposite the Park,) Washington, Masonic Hall, (opposite the Hospi- tal,) Niblo's, (Corner of Prince-street.) The above are in Broadway. Holt's is the largest Hotel in the United States, of marble, 6 stories high, and convenient to the eastern steamboats. Food &c, is raised from the kitchen by a steam engine of 12 horse power. It is at the corner of Fidton and Pearl-streets. Besides these are Merchants' Hotel, (Broad-st.) Tammany Hall, U. S. Hotel, Clinton Hall, Ton- tine and N. Y. Coffee Houses, Pearl-street House, and many others in different parts of the city. The Battery is a delightful walk in warm weath- er, commanding a view of the Bay and Hudson River, with the opposite Jersey shore, Govern- or's, Gibbet, Bedlow's, Slatch and part of Long Ishinds, enlivened by ships and steamboats. Tl»e Philadelphia Steamhoats start from the wharves near the north end of the Battery, and the Staten Island boats from the south eastern corner. 10 CITY OF NEW-YORK. Principal objects of interest in the city of New- York, Leaving the Battery and the Bowling Green, and proceeding up Broadway, we pass Grace and Trinity Churches. . Opposite the latter opens Wall-street, where are most of the Banks and Insurance Officeb in the city, the 1st Presbyterian Church, the Cvstom House and the Exchange, 'Change hours are from about 2 to 3 o'clock. In the Exchange are the Post OfTiee, Foreign Letter bag Office, News Room, and here and in the vicinity are the offices of the daily newspapers. tr .,m i,.,.., j The ranges of spacious stores and ware houses in this part of the city are worthy of attention. Numerous vessels belonging to various lines of foreign and domestic packets are found among those which crowd the wharves above and below Coffee House slip, which is at the foot of Wall- street. Returning to Broadway, and passing the City Hotel, the National and Webb's, Liberty and Courtlandt-streets on the left, lead to some of the North River steamboats, the Newark steamboat and the ferry to Powles Hook. Liberty-street on the right leads to Grant Thorburn's Green House. The City Library is in Nassau-street. Maiden Lane, a street of retailers of Dry Goods, leads down to the right. Beyond, Fulton-street leads, on the right, to Fulton Market, Brooklyn ferry, i*nd near to the Providence, N. Haven, Hartford and other Eastern steamboats. [A walk on Brooklyn Heights is recommended to the stran- ger, as they command the finest near view of the city and environs,] CITY OF NEW-YORK. 11 St. Paul's Church is in Broadway near Fulton- streot, with the monument to Gen. Montgomery, in front. In the Church yard is seen the mon- ument to the late Thomas Addis Emmet. It is a marble obelisk. )pposite is Scudder's ex- tensive American Museum. The Astor Hotel now building, is to occupy the front on Broadway, between Vesey and Barclay-st. The Park has the City Hall in the middle, with the Register's Oflice on the east, Bridewell west, and the new City Hall north. Adjacent, on the eastern side, are Clinton Hall, containing the Mercantile Library and the gallery of the Na- tional Academy ; the Bible and Tract Societies' spacious edifices ; the Park Theatre ; the Brick Church and Tammany Hall. Public School No. 1 is on Tryon Row; the New- York University, temporarily in Chambers-street, and at a little distance from it the Manhattan Water Works and Arcade Baths. On the west side of the Park is PafF's exhibi- tion of Pictures ; and in Barclay-street the Exhi- bition of the American Acadeiny of Fine Arts, and the painting room of John TrHmbull Esq. At the foot of the street is the Hohoken Ferry, with the wharf of some of the North River Steamboats, Just below these is Washington Market. A visit to Hoboken is recommended, on a pleasant morn- ing or afternoon. Columbia College is in a fine square at the foot of Park Place, with the Grammar school in Mur- ray-street, opposite the Murray-street Church. The Athenmum is at the corner of Broadway and Chambers-street. The New-Yurk Hospital is on Broadway, oppo- ' 1 r 12 CITY OF NEW YORK. site Pearl-street just beyond Masonic Hall, and near the N. York Museum. Broadway extends about a mile and a half further north, broad, strait and well built, and is the finest street in America. The Mechanics' Institution is in Crosby-street above Grand-street. There are above 100 places of public \f orship ; The Public Schools of the city are now 14 : they are of brick, generally 42 by 85 feet and of three stories; and there are i 3 new primary schools. All these are under the direction of the Public School Society of the city, which consists of 73 Trustees, and expends an income of nearly $90,000. The schools are on the Lancasterian system. Children who are able, pay $1,50 per quarter, the poor pay nothing.* . r I 1 *.• f • - > ■ I T ^ ■ •^Common Schools iti the Stole of N. York. (Exclusire of the City.) It appears from the Report of the Superintendent of Commou Schools, that the whole number of school di.«tricts in the State of Now-York on the 31st of December, 1833, was 9690, from 9107 of which, reports have been received, showing an aggreg-ite (in 9 1 07 schools) of 512,475 scholars. The whole number of children in said districts between the ages of 5 and 10 was 522,r>18. On an average the scliuols were taught eight months in the year. Increase of scholars in the schools as compared with the pre- vious year, 17,516. Increase of children between the ages of 5 and 16 years, residing in the districts, 13,756. The whole amount paid for teach- ers* wages during the year was $307,733 08 ; of which, $100,000 was received from the Common School Fund, $189,139 84 was raised by tax on the inhabitants, and $18,593 24 was derived from local funds belonging to particular towns. The productivt capital of the Common School Fund was increased during the year ending 30th iSept last, by the sum of $118,871 56, and now amounts to $1,754,046 84. Add $:73,()()4 20, the es- timated amount of unpruductivt capital; and we have a total of ^'1,927, 711 04. The law requires, thflt each town receivina; money from the treasury, ehall raise an equal sum by tax for the supp>>rt of schools. Before they can draw from the treasury, also, they must have a school house, and a teacher employed three months. N.York hiis 64 incorporated and several unincorporated academies 'J'he former have been established and en- dowed with about $'100,000, and receive about $10^000 from the state. There are 21 i egents of the Universjity who conl'er medical and other degrees above M. A , incorporalt; academic?, inspect them and the colle- ges, and report on them and distribute the literature fund among the $ ■euate districts, for th« commou schools. CITY OF NEW-YORK. 13 of 5 and 16 The House of Refuge is on 2ith-st. between the 4th and 5th Avenues, a half mile beyond the north- ern termination of Broadway; the Orphan Asylum, in Greenwich near 7th Avenue; the Deaf and Dumb Institution, near tho 3d Avenue, 4 miles north of the city ; the Blind Institution 3 miles, 8th Avenue, between 33d and 34th street; the Almshouse, at Bellevue, on the East River; the Penitentiary, on BlackwelTs Island ; the Lunatic Asylum, at Bloomingdale, 6 miles from the city. The finest points of view in the city arc the tops of the Exchange and the City Hall, to which access may be obtained. The portraits in the latter are worthy of attention. Foreign Packets, The London, Liverpool and Havre packets sail on the 1st, 8th, l6th and 24th of every month. Letters and packages left at the post office or letter bag office in the Ex- change, are sent for 6d each. Public Coaches, Numerous elegant Omnibus- es, &c. are constantly passing between Wall-st. or its vicinity and the most important parts of the city, N. and N. E. through Broadway, Canal, Water and other streets. A ride is 1 shilling — 6 tickets for 50 cents. [Hackney Coaches are hired at the following rates, — penalty for demanding more, or for refu- sing to go when not engaged, $10: for not hav- ing a copy of the rates in the carriage, ^15. For any distance not over a mile, for each per- son, 25 cents. Over 1 mile, within the lamp and watch district, each person, 50 cents. Do. for 2 persons, 37J cents each. For each additional person, 25 cents. For the 1st or Sandy Hill tour, 1* d M 14 CITY OF NEW-YORK. for not more than 4 persons, $\ for all. Do. do. 2d tour, $2, Do. do. 3d tour, $2,50. Do. to Harlaem and back, $4. Do. King's bridge and back, with the privilege of the carriage all day, $5. A coach may be hired by time at 75 cents per hour, and in proportion for more or less.] Excursions from New- York. Brooklyn and Hohoken offer the attractions oi beautiful views over the city, bay and vicinity. The former is pleasantest in the morning and the latter P. M. A delightful shady walk leads from the latter, a mile or more to the Elysian fields, where are open lawns and fine views. Staten Island commands a most extensive view, from the Pavilion, over the two bays and shores, the city, and a portion of the ocean. Near the water are the Quarantine Hospitals, the Sailor's Snug Harbor and the Marine Hospitals. On Long" Island nre many pleasant rides; and stage coaches run from Brooklyn to different parts. The Navy Yard is near that village. A rail road is to be constructed to Jamaica. Bath or New Utrecht, Coney Island and Rockaway* on the south shore, and Oysterhay on the north, are resorts for bathing, fishing li'Jin I*"' 11 \> ) ■* ^ t« • « .1 X'if/i A I. «V •""^v/ 7/ ;r i'i:it;ivi<-i •< VX V ^1^!!^"^:;^:''^^ X X niif '•|'''':"lln•%(•(n^^^^;l'■""''"f''?''((^^ IT 1' S l' ^; «.'.7.,T ;■ i ^ i| M li H J ^ FORT WASHINGTON. ' 17 StiftJft'tfit the ri\er, and about the distance of three miles from the city, is the spot where General Alexan- der Hamilton fell in a duel with Col. Burr. A monument of white marble was erected to his memory on the place; but it has been removed within a few years. This is the common duelling ground for combatants from the city, and many lives have been lost on the fatal spot. \ I'he Palisadoes — a remarkable range of pre- cipices of trap rock, which begins near this place, extends up the river on the west side 20 miles, to Tappan, and forms a singular, and in many places an impassable boundary. In some places an old red sandstone foundation is seen below ; but the great mass of the rocks presents the mural preci- pices of the trap formation, and rises from the height of 15 or 20 feet to 500 or 550. ^^W ' The eastern shore of the river opposite the Pa- lisadoes, is for many miles handsomely rounded with hills, and presents many scenes of cultiva- tiofl, which contrast with the rude cliffs on the left. The soil is inferior; and the wood land en- crx)aches too much upon the fields and orchards. The Lunatic Asylum, about 7 miles from the city, is a large building of hewn stone, occupying a commanding situation. HarlcBvi Heights are a short distance further. They form an elevated ridge across Manhattan island, on which a line of fortifications was thrown up during the Revolution and the late war quite over to the East river. Fort Lee, on the west side of the river, is sit- uated on the brow of the Palisadoes^ more than JiOO feet above the river. . Fort Washington was a fortress on the top of 18 NEW-YORK TO ALBANY. a high rounded hill, on the east side of the river, 12 miles from New-York. In October, 1776, when Gen. Washington had evacuated the city, and, subsequently to the battle of White Plains^ (for which see just beyond,) had drawn off his army to Fort Lee, Fort Washington was kept garrisoned, contrary to his advice, and was at- tacked in four divisions. The Hessians and Wal- deckers, under Gen. Knyphausen, went up the hill on the north side, Gen. Matthews on the east, with the English light infantry and guards, march- ed against the entrenchments, which reached al- most to the East river. Col. Sterling made a feint of crossing that river lower down, while Lord Percy with a very strong corps was to act against the western flank. The Hessians suffered much from the riflemen in passing the swamp, but succeeded, with the other divisions, in driving the Americans into this fort, where they all surrendered, to the number of 2500 men, including militia. They had lost very few ; but the British lost about 800, Fort Lee was immediately evacuated ; but the British crossed so speedily at Dobbs's Ferry, that they took the artillery, military stores, baggage, and tents of the American army. Battle of White Plains, \n October, 1776, soon after the American troops evacuated New- York, while General Washington had his army assembled at Kingsbridge, and the British were in possession of the island up as far as Harlaem, General Howe came up the East river, with an intention of surrounding the Americans. He left his German corps at New-Rochelle, and marched for the high grounds at White Plains, several FORT INDE/PENDENCE. 19 miles east of the Hudson, to seize the interior road between the city and Connecticut. .' Washington penetrated his design, and intrench- ed himseJt* on the west side of the small river Bronx, with his right on Valentine's hill, and his left on White Plains. He had garrisons near Har- laem, at Kingsbridge, and Fort Washington. Skirmishes were kept up till the British approach- ed very near; when Washington assembled all his troops in a strong camp on the heights near the plains, with the Bronx in front and on the right flank, and a mountainous region in the rear. The right was more accessible ; and General M*Dougal was sent to intrench himself on a moun- tain about a tiJle in front. On the morning of October 28th, the British advanced in two columns: the right commanded by Gen. Clinton, and the left by Gen. Heister. The former took post on the Mamaroneck road and the latter on the Bronx,— the armies being a mile distant. Col. Ralle with a Hessian regiment fell upon General M'Dougal in flank, while Leslie at- tacked him in front with a brigade. The militia soon fled, but the regular iroops resisted until overpowered. The British determined to wait; and on the following morning, finding the Ameri- can position much strengthened, and a height in the rear occupied by the left wing, sent for more troops and erected batteries. Washington, there- fore, retired to North Castle ; and soon after, se- curing the bridge over the Croton, and Peekskill, crossed the Hudson. Fort Independence^ on the east side of Hudson River, 'opposite, the Palisadoes are of still greater height, . i i : ii ' I . ■■i li 20 NEW-YORK TO ALBANY. Dohbs^s Ferry, 10 miles. Tarrytown, 3J miles. This is the place where Major Andre was stopped, returning from his visit to Gen. Arnold, and on his way to the British lines. The place was then neutral gronnd, as the Americans and English lay encamped ahove and below. The tree was recently standing under which his captors searched him, and the bank near by concealed them from his view as he approached them. It was a large tulip tree, 26 feet round and 111 feet high. It was struck by lightning in 1801. ■ * Tappan, on the west side. Major Andre was ex- ecuted about a mile west of Jo river in this town. The State Prison, at Singsing, is in a quadran- gle of nearly 44 feet by 480. It has a double stack of cells built back to back, 4 tiers high and 200 on each tier: in all 800. 9 feet distant is the outer wall, which supports a gallery running all round; size of the cells, 3 feet 6 inches by 7 feet, and 2 feet door way. The whole work was done by convicts, and a great part is of hewn stone. The system is that of the Auburn prison, i; The Singsing prison is in plain view from the steamboats, being only a few feet from the shore. The excellence of this system of prison disci- pline, which is the invention of Mr. Lynds, lately superintendent, consists in its economy and cutting off nearly all intercourse among the prisoners. They are separately lodged ; and though they work together, they can seldom converse, even by signs, and therefore can concert nothing, and> cannot contaminate each other. iiJSIeepy Hollow, re.idered interesting by Mr. Irving, is a little above Singsing. i i >h !;> FORT MONTGOMERY. 21 lace where om his visit :h8 British Hind, as the ahove and ding under the bank ^iew as he lip tree, 26 struck by d re was ex- i this town. a quadran- 5 a double I's high and ^t distant is ry running nches by 7 work was s of hewn rn prison. from the the shore. son disci- nds, lately nd cutting prisoners. ugh they rse, even hing, and by MrJ The Entrance of the Highlands is a short dis- tance beyond this place, and 40 miles from New- Yjrk. This is a region no less remarkable for the importani military events of which it has been the theatre, than for the grandeur and nobleness of its natural scenery. Stony Point. The little rough promontory on the left, nearly a mile below the entrance of the Highlands, was a fortified position during the American war. The British took it from Gen. Wayne in 1778, but lost it again the same year ll by surprise. There is a lighthouse on the top. Verplanck^s Point, on the opposite side, was also the site of a fort; but is now ornamented with a handsome private mansion, and the rocks near the landing are tastefully variegated with a lawn, an arbour, and many fine trees. FORT MONTGOMERY AND FORT CLINTON. 5 milcS. These forts were taken by Sir Henry Clinton, on the 6th of October, 1777. His object was to co-operate with Gen. Burgoyne, at that time closely watched by Gen. Gates near Saratoga, and to afford him an opportunity to force his way to Hudson river, by etfectiig a diversion in his favor. Sir H. Clinton had left New-York with 3 or 4,000 troops, and landed at Verplanck's Point. A detachment was sent to Stony Point, and marched round in the rear of these forts, then under Gen. Putnam, and garrisoned by 1000 con- tinental troops, part of whom were unfit for duty, and a small number of militia. Gen. Putnam, supposing the object of the expe- dition to be Fort Independence, crossed the river. ^ 'I ?j m r i 23 NEW-YORK TO ALBANY. He did not discover their real intentions until he heard the firing at forts Montgomery and Clinton, which were attacked at the same moment. The lighting hcgan between four and five o'clock P. M. and lasted till dark, when the Americans hav- ing lost about 250 men, the forts were surrender- ed ; but all the troops who were able, about 450, efTectcJ their escape, with the Governor and his brother Gen. James Clinton. The dead were thrown into Bloody Pond, in the rear of Fort Clinton. Part of the fleet, under Sir James Wal- lace, went up to Kingston, with Gen. Vaughan and his troops. The village was burnt on the 13th of October. The British proceeded no fur- ther than that place ; for the news of Burgoyne's surrender being received a few days afterward, the fleet returned to New-York. Anthony^s Nose, This mountain (which has a profile resembling the human face) rises 1228 feet from the river, opposite the mouth of Montgomery Creek. The Catskill Mountains are in sight from the top, part of Connecticut, the Green Mountains, with a view down the Hudson, extending to New- Jersey, and Harlaem Heights, Long Island Sound, &c. Even the Lunatic Asylum in New- York can be discovered. As the steamboat proceeds, several points are observed projecting into the river some distance above ; and West Point makes its appearance on the left hand, with the ruins of Fort Putnam, ele- vated on a commanding eminence, a little beyond, 598 feet above the water's level, The view this fort commands over this wild and mountainous \r MILITARY ACADEMY* 23 ns until he nd Clinton, lent. The o'clock P. ricans hav- snrrender- about 450, nor and his dead were ar of Fort Fames Wal- I. Vaughan rnt on the ded no fiir- Burgoyne's afterward, hich has a s 1228 feet ontgomery from the VIoun tains, g to New- nd Sound, Vew-York points are distance arince on tnarn, ele- le beyond, view this )untainous neig hborhood, as well as its connexion with our history, will render it worthy of a visit. There are still three our four subterraneous rooms to be seen, and the place is often visited. This fortress commanded at once the river above and below West Point, and the passage into a defile which opens through the mountains westward. A fort stood on the opposite side of the river, called Fort Constitution. Kosciusko's Monument is erected at West Point : and the spot is still shown where he culti- ■ vated his little garden. I On the East side of the river is Cold Spring, I behind it is the West Point Foundry, the best in the United States, WEST POINT. ^ The Military Academy of the United States, lo- cated at West Point, is designed for the instruction of young men destined for the army ; and se- condarily for maintaining the military science of I the country. It was established, in 1802, by Gen. Williams, and extends only to the instruction of Cadets. The number of pupils is confined to 250; the sons of revolutionary officers are allowed the first claim, and those children of officers of the last war whose fathers are dead, the nexi. There I are about 30 professors, instructors and assistants. Some of the Cadets allord assistance in instruct- ing, for which they receive additional pay. The law prohibits admission under fourteen years of age. The level on which the buildings of the institu- tion are erected, is 188 feet above the river, though it has the appearance of having once formed a part of its bed. The annual expense institution to the United States is ^115,000. i tf I 1^- 24 NEW-YORK TO ALBANY The sum paid for the education of a Cadet is about $330 per annum. The library consists of a large and valuable collection of books, on the various branches of military science. The buildings belonging to the institution are five ; all large, and built of stone. There are, be- sides, six brick buildings for the officers and pro- fessors; near the water, some old military store- houses, which contain arms, &:c, used in the revo- lution. The barracks were lately burnt. There is an elegant hoieL The course of study is completed in four years, each being devoted to a class; and includes the French language, drawing, natural and experi- mental philosophy, chemistry and mineralogy, geography, history, ethics,and national law, ma- thematics in the highest branches, and lastly, ar- tillery and engineering. Study concludes ea^ih day at 4 P. M. and is succeeded by the parade, which lasts till sunset. Col. Beverly Robinson's mansion on the east side of the river, was head-quarters at different periods in the Revolution. Tn September, 1780, while the British held pos- session of Hudson river up to the Highlands, and General Arnold was in command here, a corres- pondence was carried on by him with the British officers, on the subject of surrendering his post into their hands. Andre was sent under cover of the night from the sloop of war Vulture, which was then lying in Haverstraw Bay, to a place which had been appointed for the conference. A man by the name of Smith had been sent on board by Arnold, un^ der the pretence of negotiating about an honora- feXEClJTION OF ANDRt:. 25 I Cadet is consists of ks, on the itiition are re are, be- i and pro- tary store- 1 the revo- t. There four years, dudes the id experi- ineralogy, 1 law, ma- lastly, ar- M. and is 1 sunset, the east differ e I? t held pos- ands, and a corres- le British his post ght from len lying ad been the name nold, un-» honora* ble treaty witli Gnat Britain, and he accompanied Andre to the foot of a mountain called the Lon^J Clove, on the west side of the river. Here they found Gen. Arnold in a dark grove of evergreen trees, according to appointment. Daylight put it out ofthc power of Major Andre to pass in safety the posts at Verplanck's and Sto- ny Points. lie was therefore obliged to disguise. General Arnold had furnished him with a pa?s under the name of John Anderson ; and on the following evening he set out by land, accompanied by Smith as a guide. They rode that night to McKoy's, after going eiirht or nine miles: and the next he spent at Pine's Bridge, over Croton River. Here he parted with Smith, and proceeded alone six miles, wiien as he had passed the American lines, and was approaching those of the British, he was discovered by three men, who were con- cealed from him behind a bank; and one of them suddenly stepping from under a tree by the road side, seized his horse by the bridle. They found in his boots a description of tlie works at West Point, with returns of all the forces of the garri* son, in the handwriting of Arnold. This happened on the 23d of September. A messenger was immediately sent to Gen, Wash- ington ; and at Andre's request, Lieut. Col. Jamie- son sent to Arnold to inform him that Anderson was taken. The latter messenger arrived first ; and Arnold as soon as he learned the truth, rush- ed down a very steep bank, sprang into his boat, and ordered the rowers to take him on board the Vulture. Andre was hung at the town of Tappan, where 2* ) il ■j S \ 26 NEW-YORK TO ALBANY. his body was afterwards interred. In 1627, the corporation of New-York erected a monument over the grave of Paulding, one of his captors. On leaving West Point, the distant summit of Catskill mountains is distinguishable. Putnam's Rock was rolled from the top of Butter Hill, June 1778, by a party of soldiers directed by Gen Put- nam. On the east side is another Anthony^s Nose, Newhurgh. — This is a town of considerable size, six miles beyond the Highlands, with some hand- some buildings. Here begins the Stage Road leading from the river to Ithaca, at the head of Cayuga Lake, and communicating, by a steamboat, with the great western turnpike at Cayuga Bridge. Newhurgh is advantageously situated for the eye of one approaching it, as it stands on the de- clivity of a hill which slopes handsomely to the shore. Half a mile south of the village is seen the old stone house in which Gen. Washington had his head-quarters when the celebrated "New- burgh Letters" came out. A coach runs daily to Goshen, near which are the Chemung Springs. Fishkill Mountain* — The summits called North and South Beacons, which rise opposite New- burgh, at a distance of four miles, command a fine view over the surrounding country and the river, which appears, interrupted by the Highlands, like a number of lakes. Fort Putnam is in sight, and it is said that land may be seen in seven different states. Many villages, as well as the river, are in- cluded in the view. Matteawan Factory, Fishkill. — It stands near the river aad directly opposite Newhurgh. It KINGSTON. 27 1627, the nonuinent iplors. lummit of Putnam's Hill, June Gen Put- ty's Nose, rable size, 3me hand- age Road 3 head of ileamboat, ga Bridge. ?d for the on the de- ely to the re is seen ashington d " New- ^hich are [led North dte New- ind a fine Ithe river, mds, like iight, and different !r, are in- bds near irgh. It gives employment to a])out 300 persons, with 50 power looms, 6lc. 1,000 or l,r)00 yards of cot- ton are manufactured on an averaiJ^e from the wool every day, principally stripes and ginghams. There is an extensive machine shop connected with it. PoughkcepsiCi the Capital rf Duchess county, is on the East side of the Hudson, 75 nniles South of Albany, 7t North of New York. There is a small village situated on the irregular and pictur- esque ground near the landing, but the principal village is 1 mile distant, containing a Bank, Aca- demy &c. Much mar'ufacturing is done on the streams in this township ; and great quantities of Barnegat lime, burnt hereabouts, are sent to dif- ferent parts of the country. Hyde Park, 6 miles N. of Poughkocpsie, con- tains the summer residence of Dr. Hosack, in view from the landing, and the grounds and garden at- tached are laid out in a princely style, and with some others in the village, are worthy of a visit from the passing traveller. Kingston^ on the West side, 100 miles North of New York, has a fine tract of meadow land at the village, 3 miles from the river. The Courthouse cost $40,000, Limestone abounds. The village was burnt by the British in 1777. Esopus creek supplies mill seats. For several miles beyond, the shores are of a regular elevation, but are cut through by several streams, which afford a little variety, as wharves are usually constructed at their mouths, where sloops receive their cargoes of timber or produce for New York. !'3 'n t;f g8 NEW-YORK TO ALBANY. The Delaware and Ilndson Canal, wliicli was commenced in July 1825, and completed, with the works in connexion with it, near the close of 1 829, extends from Rondout creek, about four ndles from the junction of the Waalkill with tlic Hud- son, to the coal mines on the Lackawana creek, in Pennsylvania. The chief part of it, 05 miles, pass- es throut^h a valley, twj or three miles wide, in a south- westerly direction, to the Delaware. The country at the opening of the canal is re- markably irregular and wild. On rising from the level of the river by locks into the basin, an as- semblage of rocks, steep hills, and forest trees is suddenly presented to the view, with a few build- ings; and after passing through a deep cut, where the work is very neat, and under a high bridge, the boat enters the river, whose smooth and gras- sy sfjore oflers a very convenient towing path. The canal is 36 feet in breadth at the surface, and four feet deep. The locks are nine feet wide, 72 in length between the gates, from eight to ele- ven feet lift, and built of stone. The country seems as if it might have aflbrded a channel to the Delaware, before its waters forced for themselves a new passage through the Blue Ridge, 80 feet above the present level of that river. At the High Falls on the Rondout River, the canal passes over a hewn stone aqueduct of two arches, just above which the cascade is seen, 50 feet high. The falls and the aqueduct both pre- sent a fine and striking. appearance ; the effect of which is still further increased by the passage of the Five Locks, by which the ascent is surmounted. The Summit Level is about midway between the Hudson and Delaware, at Wiirtzborough. HONESDALE. vhicli wns I, with the our nulc3 t the Ilud- [i creek, in liles, pass- wide, in a ire. janal is re- g from the sin, an as- est trees is few bnild- cut, where igh bridge, h and gras- ng path, le surface, 1 feet wide, ght to ele- re aflbrded iters forced the Blue that river. [liver, the luct of two is seen, 50 both pre- le effect of mssage of |r mounted. between >ugh. The Neversink River is crossed on an aqueduct, and the canal then pursues the course of that river. Carpenter*s Pointy on the Delaware, is the place where the canal meets that river, on the line of New Jersey ; and it then proceeds north- westerly, along its course. The excavations of rocks along the Delaware, are in many places on a vast scale; and the varie- ty of natural scenery and artificial constructions presented to the traveller is highly agreeable and picturesque. A wall of stone rising from the ri- ver's bank, varying in height from 10 to 20 and 30 feet, supports the canal and tow path, in many places where the rocks have been blasted out with great expense to afford it a passage. Butler^ s FaWs, — At this place the mountains rise to the height of several hundred feet, and a rock, which appeared to present a natural insur- mountable obstacle, has been cut away with im- mense labor just over the tumultuous stream, so that boats pass along the smooth surface of the canal without difficulty or exposure, within a short distance of an impetuous current. The Dam and Aqueduct over the Delaware. — The canal crosses the Delaware opposite the mouth of the Lackawana River, on a dam 4 feet in height, after which it enters the valley of that stream. The Lackawana River. — Along the bank of this river the canal passes for a distance of about 20 miles supported for a great part of the way on ^ wall of stone. The wildness of the country on either side will offer continually striking objects to the traveller. Honesdale, stands at the F.^rks of the Dyberry, where the railway meets the canal at its termination. I i t i li it r I 30 NEW-YORK TO ALBANY. The Railway, by which the coal is brought fiom the mines, is provided with steam engines to move the carts. (We return to Hudson river.) Saugerties.— WeYG is a large manufacturing place established by Henry Barclay, Esq. of New- York. By a large stone dam on Esopus creek he obtains a supply of water at a fall of nearly 50 feet, which may be twice used on great wheels. The canal conducts it about two hundred yards through rocks 65 feel high. Here is a mill for paper, and an iron rolling and puddling mill 169 feet long, rolls 200 tons a week, and can do dou*- ble that work. THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. As the traveller proceeds he observes the dis- tant ridge of the Catskill mountains more distinct- ly, which limit the view north and westerly for many miles, and form a grand feature in the scene. They nowhere approach nearer to the river than 8 miles, and in some places retire 15 and even 20. An excursion to the summit of these mountains is performed by great numbers of travellers ; and indeed has become so favorite an enterprise that it may very properly be ranged among the principal objects in the great tour which we are just com- mencing. The visit may be accomplished in one day, though two or three may be agreeably spent in examining, at leisure, the grand and beautiful scenery of that romantic neighborhood. There is a large and commodious house of entertainment erected at the Pine Orchard, one of the peaks of the mountain, about 3000 feet above the river. It is visible from the steamboat ; and the ascent to it is performed witho\vt fatigue, in private carriages CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. SI or a stage coach, which goes and returns regular- ly twice a day. The place to land for this excursion is Catskill, where begins a turnpike road to Ithaca, Taking the stage coach here, you proceed toAvards the Pine Orchard, passing a good inn at the distance of 7 miles, (640 feet above the river,) and then be- ginning the ascent, which is surmounted by a winding road that affords much wild scenery and many a glimpse at the surrounding country.* Five miles of such travelling brings the visiter to The Pine Orchard. This is a small plain, 2214 feet above the river, scattered with forest trees, and furnished with an elegant hotel. The Hudson is seen windinop from afar throug^h its verdant val- ley, its margin adorned with villages, and its sur- face enlivened with vessels of various descrip- tions. Immediately below is seen a rc(jion of un- cultivated mountains, which is strikingly contrast- ed with the charming aspect of fertility that reigns beyond, and presents all the variety of hill and vale, town, hamlet, and cottage. The Round Top is a su nmit of greater eleva- tion from which the view is more extensive. It is 3,718 feet above the ocean. On the west side of the river is seen part of the counties of Albany, Greene, Ulster, and Orange ; and on the east, part of Putnam County, and all of Dutchess, Columbia, and Rensselaer. * Tho forests of this mountainous rcarion furnisti immense quantities of the bark used in tanning leatlicr; and not le-s than 23 tanneries are in opt ration in this count3% wiiich supply about four-fifths of the leather an- nually inspected in tho city of New-Vork. (Kdv .irds' large tannery is in the town of Hunter.) Watei power is advantageously introduced to aid in some parts of tho process ; and the custom bus been adopted of soak- ing the bark in heated water. More than 155,000 hides were taimcd in Green County in 1826, valued at more than $400,000. fs'JI :^ I li iH. 32 NEW-YORK TO ALBANY. The distant highlands in the east belong partly ta Taughkannuc and Saddle Mountains, in Massa- chusetts, and perhaps partly to the Green Moun- tains in Vermont. Lower down is discovered a range of hills in the western counties of Connec- ticut. The eye embraces a tract of country about 100 miles in length, and 50 in breadth; and a large part of it is supposed, by geologists, to have formed the bed of a great lake in some long past age, when the Hudson was thrown back by the barrier presented at the Highlands, before the pre- sent chasm had been cut for its passage. Nearly opposite is seen the old Livingston Ma- nor, which is one of the few greet aristocratical estates existing in this part of the country. It originally contained Clermont (14,000 acres,) the Manor (146,000), and East Camp or Palatine (0000). This last was settled by exiles from the Palatinate in the reign of Queen Anne. The Cascades. There is a singular and highly romantic scene which has been intentionally re- served for the last. A path leads through the woods to the cascades, passing near two small lakes, from which the supply of water is derived. Carriages may generally be procured to take visi- ters to the spot. The stream flows through the woods to where the level terminates, very abruptly, at a high and shelving precipice, descending into a tremendous gorge between ridges of gloomy mountains. The first fall is 175 feet, and the second 80: both per- pendicular, without a single protruding rock to break the snow-white sheet. A building is erected, where refreshments may be obtained ; and on the right is a steep path by ! CITY OF HUDSON. 33 r partly ta in Massa- !en Moun- covered a f Connec- ntry about th ; and a ts, to have I long past ck by the re the pre- igston Ma- istocratical mntry. It acres,) the p Palatine s from the ind highly lonally re- ough the two small lis derived. take visi- to where high and lemendous lins. The both per- rock to |ents may path by which even ladies may descend in safety to the i foot of the falls. ji There is a cavern under the first cataract, where I the shelving rock shelters the stranger from the spray, and throws a dark shade around hinn, which sets off, in the most beautiful manner, tl.:e wild scenery below. The cavern is formed by the wearing away of the sand-stone rocks, while the stratum of graywacke remains unimpaired. At a little distance the stream takes it second leap into a dark abyss ; and from a rock at that place, it is seen rushing tumultuously along over a steep and rocky channel, winding between the ba- ses of the mountains until it gradually sweeps away towards the south, and disappears among the rude scenery that surrounds it. The traveller will return to Catskill to take the steamboat. THE CITY OF HUDSON, 5 J miles. This is one of the largest and most important towns on the river, and occupies a commanding eminence on the eastern bank, with several ranges of large stores built near the water's level. On the brow of the ascent from the water is a favorite prome- nade, from which a charming view is enjoyed of the river and the opposite Catskill mountains. The western shore is variegated and beautiful, and contains the village of Athens. Hudson is a port of entry, and capital of Co- lumbia county. Several vessels are employed in whaling. Ships of the largest size come up the river to this town without difficulty. 28 miles south of Albany, It may be recommended to the traveller who 3 n\ 't I 'Il 34 CITY OF ALBANY. 'X wishes to visit New-Lebanon Springs, to land here and take the stage coaches. From Jlndson to New-Lebanon is 28 miles. The road passes throngh a varied, ;vell cultiva- ted, and agreeable tract of country. Stage coach- es go daily to Lenox, Stockbridge, Pittstield, &c. At Egreniont, they exchange passengers with the coaches for Sheffield, Hartford, and New-Haven. At Hudson carriages may be engaged for Cats- kill mountains. The Columbia Spring is a place of some re- sort, and the water is considered effectual in ca- ses of scrofula. There are extensive manufactories of cotton, calico, &c. &c. in this vicinity. Clavcrack is a pleasant village a few miles from Hudson. Tiie Great Falls is a romantic cascade, of 150 feet, about 9 miles from Hudson, near the old post route. There is a large manufactory about 250 yards from the cascade. Various plans have been proposed, for the im- provement of the navigation of Hudson river, and some have been attempted. Nearly 8150,000 have been expended since the year 1797, about $30,000 of which was by the state. The Overslaugh, 4 miles from Albany, is a place wheie the channel is narrow and crooked; and much labor has been resorted toin deepening it. ALBANY, the capitol of the State of New-York, on the west side of the Hudson, 144 miles north of New-York, 165 west of Boston, 230 south of Montreal, contained 26,000 inhabitants in 1830, and must have increased much since that time. It is a city of great wealth and prosperity, and em- 1 CITY OF ALBANY. 35 to land miles. 11 cultiva- ge coach- field, &c. with the tv-Haven. for Cats- some re- ual in ca- of cotton, niles from tie, of 150 e old post about 250 v the im- Iriver, and 8150,000 7, about |any, is a crooked ; jpeningit. jew- York, ties north south of in 1830, time. It and em- bellished with fine buildings, public and private. The navigation of the Hudson is here connected with tlie Erie and Champlain canals and tlie Schenectady rail-road, and numerous stage coach lines meet. The canal basin is formed by a pier 4,300 feet long ; and the junction of the two ca- nals is 8 miles north. The Capitol or State House, 90 feet jby 115, and 50 high, stands on the top of the hill of thai, name, at the head of State street, which is broad and fine. It contains the Senate and Assembly Chambers, Superior Court, &c. Near it are the City Hall, of white marble, the Institute, and Aca- demy. Thero are in the ci!y ? lanks, 3 Insurance ofiices, an Athenaeum. Library Female Seminary, 6cc. The first settlement was made in Albany in 1612, it being the second colony planted in the United States. A little trading house or fort, was erected by the Dutch on an island half a mile be- low the city, after which fort Orange was built on the main land above it. Albany was first called Aurania, afterwaids Beverwyck, in 1625 it was named Fort Orange, in 1647 Williamstadt, and Albany in 1664. It was long protected against Indian attacks by a palisade. The charter was granted in 1686, and included 7160 acres. The form is peculiar: extending 7 miles along the river, although but one mile in breadth. The Erie Canal, extends from Albany to Buf- falo, 362 miles, connecting the navigation of the Hudson with that of Lake Erie, the Ohio river and the upper Lakes ; and, by collateral works, with Lake Ontario and many of the small Lakes and streams in the interior of the State of New-York, li Iti 36 NEW-YORK TO ALBANY* At the distance of 8 miles from Albany, it is join- ed by the Champlain Canal, which exter-ls to Lake Champlain, There are many objects vj( in- terest along the route, both natural and artificial, which will be mentioned in the proper places. It was the first great work of the kind completed in the U. States, and its great success has done much to encourage the prosecution of internal improve- ments in different States of the Union. The Canal. The whoh^ quantity of down freight upon which toll is charged by weight, that was conveyed on the New-York Canals to Albany in 1833, amounted to one hundred and fifty-two thousand nine hundred and thirty-five tons, at 2,000 lbs. per ton. Arrived, 734,133 barrels of flour, 22,922 barrels of ashes, 13,489 barrels of provisions, 3 9,908 barrels of whiskey, 873 hhds. of whiskey, 17,116 bushels of salt, 298,504- bush- els of wheat, 122,944 bushels of coarse grain, 257, 252 bushels of barley, 2,187 boxes of glass. And also the following upon which toll is not charged by the ton : 20,960 cords wood, 74,350 feet tim- ber, 55,338,547 feet lumber, 74,350 M shingles, and 68,321 tons of merchandise, furniture, and sundries, sent up the Canal from Albany. The whole amount of toll received by the Collector at Albany, is ^323,689.88, making an increase of ^87,053.56 over the receipts of last year. The number of boats arrived and cleared was 16,834. Route to the Springs and the Falls. The com- mon route to Ballston and Saratoga Springs, or that to Niagara will be pursued by most trav- ellers arriving at Albany from the south. They will be given hereafter. They both leave Albany by the Railroad to Schenectady. The route to ALBANY AND SCHENECTADY RAILROAD 37 IS join- iV^S to s vjf in- rtificial, ces. It ileted in le much mprove- f down ght, that I Albany [ifty-two tons, at irrels of arrels of 73 hhds. 4 bush- in, 257, . And charged eet tim- hingles, ire, and The etor at ase of . The 16,834. e com- irings, ;t trav- They Jbany >ute to i Lebanon Springs 26 miles east from Albany, will first be given, with descriptions of places and ob- jects along the old routes to Ballston and Saratoga. There is a fine waterfall about 8 miles from Albany, in a south-west direction, on a branch of Nordman's creek; and the spot is of quite a ro- mantic character. There are several pleasant excursions which may be made in different directions from Albany : as to Lebanon Springs, Troy, Cohoes Falls on the Mohawk, (on the way whither will be seen some of the locks on the Erie Canal,) Waterford, Niskayuna, &c. These places will be described hereafter. — (See Lidex,) Most travellers how- ever will take the Albany and Schenectady Railroad^ on the route to the Springs or to Niagara. It is between 15 and 16 miles long, with double tracks, and was commenced in 1830. The summit is a dead level of 14 miles, 335 feet above the Hudson, with a stationary steam engine of 12 horse power at each end, to draw the cars up inclined planes of 1*20 perpendicular feet, and branches to the Albany basin and Capital Square. In one place excava- tions of 47 feet have been made several hundred yards.* On approaching the western end, the road makes a gentle curve, which affords a view back upon the whole route, which is strait to that * Mr. Jeitse BueVs ,forrrt, 3 miles from Albanj^ lies in the route of the railroad. It contains 80 acres, which, in 1818, was in the neglected, un- productive condition of the adjacent soil. He ploughs much, and adopts a judicious system of rotation of crops, some of which are ploughed in for manure. Some fine hedges of ilifTorent growths may be seen on the farm. He finds a convenient market in the city. Tht Nuntru emXnSices about a dozen acres, and contains a well stored greenhouse Here will be found numerous fine native and foreign plants. 3* ' cij 0' €i 38 NEW-LEBANON SPRINGS. ' >; place. The wheels run on an iron bar resting on pine rails. When completed the work will pro- bably cost about $40,000 a mile, or f 639,908. (For the continuation of the route to NIAGA- RA, see page 46 and onward.) LEBANON SPRINGS, 26 miles E. from Albany. New Lebanon Springs is one of the most de- lightful resorts for strangers. Among all the pla- ces which might have been selected for an agreea- ble residence in the warm seasons, and calculated to please a taste for the softer beauties of nature, none perhaps could have been found more eligible than that we are about to describe. The village of New-Lebanon is situated in a little valley, surrounded by fine hills, or rather spurs from two ranges of high ground, descending with a rich, and graceful slope on every side to its borders. The valley is almost a perfect level, which contrasts delightfully with the bold sides of the uplands, some of which are divested of their forests, and ornamented with cultivated fields and farms, presenting a rich variety to the eye wher- ever it turns. On the side of a hill about two miles east from the village, and about half way to the summit of the ridge, issues out a Spring of clear warm wa- ter, which, although possessed of no strong mine- ral qualities, has given the place its celebrity ; and there stands a fine and spacious hotel, to which the visiter will direct his course. In coming from the west, the Shaker Village opens just beyond the last turnpike gate. The terms of boarding are as follows : in July, $S per week, and at other seasons $7, Near the NEW-LEBANON SPRINGS. 39 ingon 11 pro- 08. AGA- Ibany. st de- le pla- igreea- lulated laturi;, ilijrible I in a rather ending side to t level, ides of f their ds and vvher- t from mit of m wa- mine- y ; and which /^illage July, ar the Spring is a Bath Il')use, containing warm, cold, and shower haths. A little arbor will be observed on the acclivity of the hill above the house, the path to which lies through the garden; and there an uninterrupted view will be enjoyed over the surrounding land- scape. A still more extensive one may be ob- tained from the summit of the hill, by following the road for a considerable distance up, and then turninc^ off into the fields. On the south-east is the road to Northampton; south-west the most extensive scene, and the road to the Shaker Vil- lage; west, village of New Labanon, and road to Albany and Troy ; north-west, the side of a fine sloping hill, well cultivated, and near at hand. Distances, To Albany, 26 miles ; Tioy, 27. (This is the shortest way to Ballston and Saratoga Springs, Lake George, encer, srs of the )site di- 7 ; Leicester, 1 1 ; Worcester, 6 ; Framingham, 10; Boston, 21 — 134. The Shaker Village, a few miles from the Springs, is an object of attention to most visiters. The village itself presents a scene of great neat- ness and beauty, as it is situated on a beautiful level, and laid out with the utmost regularity. The fields are divided by right lines, fenced with the most substantial materials, and cultivated with great faithfulness and skill. It is a leading prin- ciple with the society, to allow of no private pro- perty: all the possessions of those who join them are thrown into the common stock, and submitted at once to their peculiar system of life and gov- ernment. Celibacy they insist upon as indispen- sable ; and they profess to banish the love of wealth and ambition, as v/ell as luxury in all its degrees, from their territories. The founder of their sect was Ann Lee, who came from England some years ago, and estab- lished at Niskay una, near Albany, a small "fam- ily," as they call it, which has been succeeded by various similar institutions in different, parts of the country. They regard that woman as nearly equal to the Su*^iour of the world ; and themselves as the only persons who have received that spir- itual light which is necessary to understand and practise the duty of man, that is, to renounce the pleasures of the world, and, by a life of self-denial, present a living testimony against error and wick- edness. Their dress is plain, and their worship consists principally of a strange and disagreeable kind of dancing, whence they have their namey accompanied with a monotonous song. ft-t III! i I' i> h . 42 UNITED STATES AUSKN'AL. u l! lit f! Some of tlirir most cxprrimcrd and perfect mcmhrrs |)retcrHl to "sprak with t )ngiiep/' heal discasrs with a touch of the hand, and p^ Torm other miracles like the apostles. They consider the marriage contract as dissolved on joining the society. They pay great attention to the raising of gar- den seeds in most of their villages, as well as to several of the neater branches of manufacture, and derive from both a very handsome income, by making sales at home and in distant parts of the country. Geology. The tract of country between New- Lebanon and Albany is transition. Bluish gray transition limestone, with veins of calcareous spar, abounds here in strata on a large scale, with a considerable inclination. It is compact, with a slaty structure, Gray wacke abounds at intervals ; also transition slate, and a fine red sandstone. RENSSELAERWYCK. A fine estate with its respectable old mansion house, about a mile north of the centre of the city, is the seat of the Honorable Stephen Van Rensselaer, who bears the respected old Dutch title of Patroon of Alba- ny. The estate is of immense value, extending ten miles along the river, and double that distance east and west; while he possesses besides, a fine tract on the Black River, and much other prop- erty. It was formerly entailed and secured by law to the oldest son of the family; but on the death of the present proprietor it is to be divided equally among all the children. U, States'* Arsenal^ 5^ miles, at Gibbonsville. Being in the vicinity to the Hudson, the road, and the canal, it enjoys every convenience for the trans- port dev( ply for disp part righl i<« •a I perfect jp," heal p^ Torm consider ining the g of gar- reW as to ufactiire, income, parts of en New- lish gray !Ous spar, ;, with a t, with a itervals ; tone. ate with t a mile t of the 10 bears )f Alba- |xtcn(ling distance s, a fine r prop- ured by t on the divided msville. »ad, and le ti ans- UNITED STATES* AKSKNAL. 43 portation of arms and ammunition. One floor is devoted to such arms as are intended for the sup- ply of the military posts, or have been received for repairing. The arms in the other parts are disposed with more taste. The muskets are partly packed in boxes, and partly ranged up- right, with fixed bayonets, in compact order ; and present an appearance truly formidable. Thou- sands of pistols are hung overhead ; those in the alternate lines standing different ways; and swords with metallic scabbards are disposed horizontally on wire hooks. The walls bear several devices formed of swords, pistols, 6lc. ingeniously arran- ged. This is the principal depot of arms and equipments in the northern states. The passages and staircases are hung with drums, &;c. On the ground floor are a few pieces of artillery, and various sizes of shot, sliells, &c. In the yard are workshops for the repair of arms, manufacturing locks, &c. about 30 men being usually employed, most of whom are en- listed. Tlie muskets are repaired about once in a year ; which costs from 50 cents to $\ 50 or ^'2 each. The barrels are oxydized, to prevent rusting. The muskets weigh a little more than ten pounds, and the parts are intended to correspond as nearly as can easily be done. In the yard are a number of cannon, &c. There are 4 medium 12 pounders, one 24, and one howitzer, all taken at Saratoga ; 4 medium 12 pounders and one howitzer, taken at Yorktown ; two long antique pieces and one 8 inch mortar, taken at Stony Point ; two old French 4 pounders and 14 guns, sent by king Louis to the Contineu- iM f >-i 44 ROUTE TO NIAGARA. u I tal Congress in the Revolution. These are all of brass, iuid most of them highly ornamented. The French guns presented by the king bear each an individual name forvvard, and the inscription " Ultima ratio reguTYi*^ — (the last argument of kings.) There are also three or four howitzers cast in New- York and Philadelphia in the Revolution, some of the oldest specimens of such manufacture in this cour/ry. They bear the letters U. C. for United Colonies, TROY, on the opposite side of the river, is a very handsome town, with fine hills in the rear, the most prominent of which is Mount Ida. The Dana and Basin at Troy form a great and expen- sive work, ^nd are of marked benefit to tlie place, by diverting a part of the business of the canal. Troy ha.i a court house, jail, market, 7 churches, 3 banks, and the large female seminary of Mrs. "Willard. The road to New-Lebanon is a very good and very pleasant one. The distance is 27 miles. You pass Sandy Lake 10 miles, Nassau 8, village of New-Lebanon 12, and Lebanon Springs 2. On Mamit Ida, is a fine succession of water- falls, ou two streams, the Poestenkill and the Wynantskill. One Ot them has cut its way in some places to a great depth, and takes three or four perpendicular leaps at short intervals of only a few yards. The road to New-Lebanon Springs leads near the place, which is worthy of attention for its picturesque character. There are several mills of different descriptions, and a cotton manu- factory. The view from the top of XhU hill, and btill more from the mountain behind it, is very extensive and beautiful. *- >» .3;! e are all lamented. b(iar each iscripiion ument of rs cast in evolution, nufacture U. C. for iver, is a the rear, da. The kI expen- Iie place, lie canal, ihurches, of Mrs. s a very ice is 27 Nassau 8, Springs water- and the way in hree or of only Springs ttention several 1 manu- ill, and is very ^ ^ I ■ %. H ! I>l %\ !!iy I ::^l ' i I mi iii nr ^. />\ M ii.^'.if^*ii^t0m ' ^> I/iTth s: to !1 H i^ 1 1 \V 1 1 1 I '-tae^'' "* 1^= z::.::S^'^ •.t?*' v..\ .)U 1 i ■ f I -*apt^ I' ill I ' ! i .;/. '"'•"A. H.,-?U7- f'. s. ■-s^ ( / \.< HcoJur I 3 M I i I i M ';;'' ^, f I o ■/J r-^ 'V ^ I V ■I ^ ■ ' 1 f I .{ I f m I mn '' 'M I' m I I I ■m^i^ 1 I ^^ livei to wl seUsS pers iiei^rl per use lyofi ERIE CANAL. 45 At the Van Rensselaer ScJiooJ, the students de- liver lectures, by turns, on the branches of study to which they are devoted; and during the pleasant seasons of the year, they aHovv much time to making personal observations on farming, the botany of the neighbourhood, &/C. Boarding costs about §1,50 per week, and no charge is made for room rent, use of the library, apparatus, &c. Any person above 18 years of age is gratuitous- ly offered education, who possesses che scientific acquisitions to be taught in any incorporated academy ; if he has a good moral chancter, and will return to his county and exert iMmself to introduce and extend the experimental plan of education. Miss Willard's Academy^ for young ladies, is also a very respectable establishment. The Double Locks. — The two locks which occur just below the junction of the northern and west- ern canals, were doubled in 1825, to furnish room for the boats, which pass here in great numbers. They are built of marble from Westchester county. The junction f 8^ miles from Albany, is where the Northern and VVestern canals unite. To this spot the canai is of a greater width than either of the branches. The Northern canal runs to White- hall, Lake Champlain, with locks, a distance of 62^ miles, passing through Waterford, Halfmoon, Stillwater, near Bemis's Heights, (14 miles from Waterford,) with the battle grounds of General Burgoyne, Fort Hardy, where he surrendered, Fort Miller, Fort Edward, and Fort Anne. THE ERIE OR WESTERN CANAL, reaches to Buffalo, on Lake Erie, a distance of 362 miles. yi m if I' I 46 ROUTE TO NIAGARA, It lias 83 locks, which raise and lower the water 688 feet in all. The principal points where the most labour and expense were required, are the following : The Basin at Albany, — the Dam and Basin at Troy, — the Locks at the Cohoes Falls, — the two Aqusducts on which the canal twice crosses the Mohawk, — the long Stone Wall and Locks at Lit- tle Falls, together with the beautiful Aqueduct for the Feeder at that place, — the long stretch through the Onondaga Swamp, — the great Embaiikinent at Victor, where for two miles the boats pass 72 feet above the level, — the Aqueduct over the Genesee at Rochester, — the five double combined I^ocks at Lockport, and the Long Pier at Black Rock. The principal natural objects near it are ; The Cohoes Falls,— Litt'le Falls,— the Falls of Trenton, l4 miles north-east of Utica, — the Lakes of Oneida, Salina, Onondaga, Cayuga, Seneca, and Canandaigua — the three Falls of the Genesee River, at Rochester and Carthage; Niagara, — and the Lakes of Ontario and Erie. The amount of toll received on the Erie, and Champlain canals, in 1832, was ^^1,19(),000. At the 9 Locks, the road to Waterford leaves the Erie canal on the west, and the Champlain canal on the east ; and crosses the Mohawk River below the Cohoes Falls. COHOES FALLS. This is the great Cataract of the Mohawk River. The height of the fall is 62 feet. The banks are mere walls of stratified rock, rough, and sometimes hollowed out beneath, rising about l40 feet above ths river for a great distance below the falls. A bridge, on Towne's- SCHENECTADY TO TJTICA 47 plan, was built across the river in 1828, near the dam. At (nsi view the CHtaract appears almost as regular as a mill-dam ; bu*^, on a nearer an[)roach, the led^e of rocks over which the water is precip- itated is found extremely irregular and broken. Many fine fish are caught at the bottom. The Lower Aqueduct^ 2i miles above the falls. On account of the difiiculty of cutting the canal along this side of the river, above this place, it was found easier to carry it over, as there is a natural channel on the other side. This aqueduct is 1188 feet long, and rests on 26 stone piers and abutments. Wat Hoix Gap, 2\ miles — the channel abo\e mentioned. Upper Aqueduct, 9^ miles— 748 ft. long, and rests on 16 piers. The scene at Alexander's Bridge is line. Schenectady, is one of the oldest settlements in the state, having been occupied as a little frontier fortress beiore the year 1665, when it was attack- ed by a party of French and Indians from Canada, and burnt, and many of the inhabitants murdered. This party was designed against the Five Nations; but being much worn down with travelling in the winter they fell on Schenectady. Union College is conspicuously situated a little out of town. Two large stone buildings 200 feet long have been erecte 1 several years, but the orig- inal plan, which was quite extensive, has never been completed. FROM SCHENECTADY TO UTICA. By the Canal 79^ miles» By the road 81 miles. Rotterdam Flats 3 miles. H1 48 ROUTK TO NIAGAKA. Flint Hill 8 Fort Hunter 10 Norlh of the canal, and on the bank of the Mohawk, is the place where this little fort former- ly stood. Near this place is the site of an old fort of the Mohawk Indians; and there is still lo be seen a chapel bnilt by Queen Anne, near the beginning of the last century, for the use of ihat nation, called Queen Anne^s Chapel SCHOHARIE CREEK. 1 mile. Here is a collection of several very interesting works, formed for the convenient passage of boats across a broad and rapid stream. A guard lock pre- serves the water in the canal from rising or fall- ing, and the current of the creek is set back by a dam a little below, nearly to the same level. The dam is constructed in a manner best calcula- ted to resist the pressure of the current in floods, and when increased by the ice. It has a broad foundation and a narrow top; and it is built so as to present an angle against the middle of the cur- rent. A wheel turned by a horse moves a rope, which is stretched double across, and is carried round a wheel on the other side ; a line attached to this draws the boats, they being kept in their course by another line, which slides upon a long rope stretched across the creek on the other side of the boats. CAUGHNAWAGA, 4^ miles. The village of Johnstown is situated at the distance of four miles north of the Canal.* *Tribe*s f/i7/ is a commanding olovation within the limits of Johns- towu. It WW formerly the place of the council fire of the Mohaw^i li\- } BATTLE OF JOHNSTOWN. 49 Anthoni/s Nose, 7J miles. This is a high and prominent hill, rising abrubtly on the southern bunk of the river. On the top is a remarkable cavern, which extends downwards to a great depth, with several apartments of considerable size. This hill is represented in one of the plates; but the view is taken from a spot west of it. There is every appearance of a rent in the hills having been made by a strong current of water; and geologists consider them as having originally been a barrier to a great lake which was thus gra- dually drained. •ope, rried chad their long side Johns- iwli Ra- dians; and thfi Germans havo corrupted its name to " Tripe's Hill," by which it is commonly known. At Julinstown, on the road, are two fine houses, built of stone, standing nt the disttnce of a mile from cucli other. They were erected by Sir William Johnson and his family, as this tract of country was the place of h'S residence, and for:iied a part of liis vast and valual)le estate. There was originally a third house, siinil rly built, and at the interval of another mile: but this was consumed by fire. Col- Guy J'hnson and Col. Jolm Johnson (sons of Sir William) iuh ibited two of them until the revolution- ary war ; when, haviiig atti.chcd themselves to the British interest, they removed into Canada, and their estates were confiscated. Colonel John afterwards came down with a party of Trench and Indians, attacked tho town, and made prisoners many of hi* old fricn'ls and neighbors. Sir William Johnson, who makes so c Mispiruous a figure in the his- tory of the state about th<" time of the French war, was born in Ireland, ifi 1714, and in 1734 came to America, at the solicitaion of ids uncle. Sir Peter Warren, who had acquired a large estate here through his wife. Sir Williwm became well ncquiiiited wiMi the Indian language and man- ners, and acquired a greater intlueiice over them than any whitt. "nau ever pf.ssesscd. He ose from the station of apiivate soldier to the i ^nk of a general, and commanded at lalve Gcorc-e in J755, although as w'll hereafter be seen, the title which he there recoivod wis really merited by Gen. liyman. July 25, 17."t9, he took Fort Niagara, and in 17G9 went to join Gen. Gen. Amherst at ()gwego, and assisted in the captire of Mon- treal He died and was buried at his seat, July 7, 1774, at the age of GO very rich, in consequence of the increasel value of his extensive estate after the French war. This building was er- cted in 1773, and standa nearly a mile westward from the village. It is called the Hull. The Hnltle. nf Johnstmou. On the '^."ithof Oct- ber, 1781, Col. Willct; with 400 white men and 60 of the Oneida tribe, fodght fiOO of the Eng- lish and Indians, on the grounds belongint' to the niansion. The loss of the enemy was considerable, and they suifered go much during thei"* re- treat, that on their arrival ia Canada their numbers were reduced to ^Q* II: rm^ BO ROUTE TO NIAOi^RA. Canajoharie Creek and Village, 5 miles. Hence a stage coach two or three times a week to Cherry Valley. Fort Plain, 4 miles. Here is a small village, belongfng to a town inhabited by the descendants of Germans. It occupies the site of old Fort Plain. The German language, much corrupted, is spoken. This little fort v/as surprised by Cap- tain Butler in the revolutionary war, on his re- turn from burning Cherry Valley ; and here he committed sim.'lar attrocities. Dam o'i /^ ^ River, and Feeder for the Canal. 4 miles. The mouth of JLut Canada Creek, on the oppo- site side of the Mohawk. Near that place Capt. Butler met a violent death, soon after leaving Fort Plain, on his way back to Oneida Lake and the Oswego. He had crossed the river some- where below, and while lingering a little in the rear of his troops, was overtaken near the mouth of the creek, by two Oneida Indians, in friendship with the Americans. Seeing them preparing to kill him, he begged for his life; but they only re- plied, ^^ Sherry Valley P^ and tomahawked him on the spot. Mohawk Castle, 2 miles. This was the princi- pal defensive position of that famous nation of In- dians now entirely scattered and lost. As the nearest to the Dutch settlements, and New Eng- land, they were long regarded with peculiar soli- citude, and frequently with great dread. They were one of the five nations, of which we shall speak more particularly, at Oneida, and wer^ long faithful and serviceable friends to the white men. Here is an old chapel erected for their use. t :f.\ is; • a^-e LITTLE FALLS. i !*1 ^ n »|l LITTLE FALLS. The country presents a varied surface, and increases in interest on ap- proacliing Little Falls, which is the most roman- tic scene on the course of the Efie canal. On reaching a little open meadow surrounded by hills where the views open upon cultivated fields and a few farm houses, the Mohawk will be found flowing below on the right; while on the oppo- site sldr-. at the foot of the hills on the verge of the forest that covers them, the great road is seen, after having been lost to the view for a long time. Here is situated Gen. Herkimer's house, on the south side of the river at the foot of Fall Hill. The road, the river, and the canal meet again at the head of the valley; for there is but one pas- sage, and that so narrow as hardly to afford room for them all, through a chain of limestone and granite hills, doubtless torn away in some former age by the force of water. If the chain were again filled up it would throw the water back, and form an immense lake, such as is supposed to have once existed west of this place, and which, by overflowing its bounds, in process of time wore away the limestone strata, and cut deep into the hard granite, until a mere river succeeded, and the fine alluvial plains above, called the German Flats were left dry. The stranger should, by no means, neglect the view of this place. If he reaches it early or late in a pleasant day, particularly near the rising of the sun, the beauty of the scene will be redoubled. On the north bank of the river, the road climbs along the side of the rocks, where there is barely room for its passage. A great part of the way, 52 ROUTE TO NIAGARA. it is almost overhung by rocks and trees on one side, while on the other is a precipice of granite, cut down by the force of water in perpendicular shafts, originally formed by drills, made by loose stones whirled round in the current. The same appearance extends to the islands and rocks in the channels, many of which appear quite inaccessi- ble, with their ragged and perpendicular sides overhung by dark evergreens, whose shade seems the more intense from its contrast with the white rapids and cascades below. In some places the road is protected by immense natural battlements, formed of massy rock, which have been loosened from above, and planted themselves on the brow of the precipice. The scenery has been compared with that of the river Dove in Derbyshire, and the Killin in Perthshire, England. On the south side of the river runs the canal supported by a wall 20 or 30 feet high, construct- ed at great expense, and rising from the veiy chan- nel of the Mohawk. The wildness of the surround- ing scenery contrasts no less with the artificial beauty of this noble work, than the violence and tumult of the Mohawk with the placid and silent surface of the canal, or the calmness and security with which the boats glide along the side of the mountains. The canal traveller may step on shore at the two locks, and walk along the tow paths, as there are five more locks a mile above. If he wishes to stop a few hours to view ihe scene more at lei- sure, the village of Little Ealls is only half a mile from that place, where is a large and comfortable inn, with canal boats and stage coaches passing • very frequently. S GERMAN FLATS. The Aqueduct across the Mohawk is near the five locks; and is considered the most finished spe- cimen of mnsoii work oij the line of the canal though much inferior in size to that over the Ge- nesee at Rochester. It conducts a supply of water from the old canal, formerly built for boats to pass the falls, and communicatts also with a large basin on the north bank. It passes the narrow channel of the river with three beautiful arches, which are covered with a calcareous cement roughened by little stalactites, formed by the water that continually drips through the stones. The span of the middle arch is 60 feet. Stones, twigs of trees, &.c. on which the water falls, are soon found incrusted with a similar substance. The channel here shows part of the old limestone strata, with the more durable granite rocks laid bare below. This range of mountains, called in this part of the state the Catsbergg, is a spur of the Alleghany and extends along the west side of Lake Cham- plain, till it disappears in the northern levels in Canada. This neighborhood is interesting to the geolo- gist, abounding in organic remains, and rock- crystals, (quartz), terminating with two pyramids. There are mills of various kinds at this place. On leaving Little Falls, the canal enters upon a beautiful meadow of fine soil, and smooth sur- face ; through which the Mohawk winds in a pla- cid and gentle current, enclosed on each side by sloping hills. At the distance of three miles, we are in the level region called the German Flats', famous for its fertility. The inhabitants, who are ■Hi 54 ROUTE TO NIAGARA. almost all of German extraction, still preserve their language, and many of the customs of their ancestors, and though often laborious and provi dent farmers, are little inclined to those improve- ments in learning or the useful arts, which dis- tinguish so large a portion of the state. 7.^he scenes presented along this part of the canal bear a resemblance to some of the meadows of the Connecticut, although of inferior size, and of more recent settlement. Six miles from Little Falls is Lock No, 48. An old church is seen ol' the south side ; and also, old Fort Herkimer. Herkimer, This village is situated about a mile and a half beyond, and a mile north of the canal, on a semicircular plain ; the circumference of which is tracea b^ the Mohawk, and the diameter by the great road. It derives its name from Gen. Herkimer, of whom there will be more to say at Rome. Fort Herkimer, or the "Stone House," is near the canal, a mile and a half from Herki- mer. The traveller may take a carriage here, to visit Trenton Falls, and join the canal again at Utica ; or go first from Utica. The Long" Level begins at Lock No. 53, near- ly six miles west of Herkimer. It is the longest reach on the canal, without any interruption by locks, extending to Salina, a distance of 69i miles. After passing Frankfort, we reach UTICA. This is one of the largest and most important of the western towns. Here the river, the great road, and the canal, all meet ttgain. There are i i \ TRENTON FATLS. M ear- nest by liles. Lant eat are also roads concentrating here, from various direc- tions, and stage coaches arriving and departing in great numbers. There are several handsome churches inUtica, and one or more for almost every denomination. The streets are broad, straight, and commodious; and the principal ones well built with rows of brick stores, or elegant dwelling-houses. The bridge over the Mohawk is at the end of the street. There were, in 1h30, 8253 inhabitants. Hamilton College is situated near the village of Clinton, nine miles from Utica. There were fourteen graduated here in 1828. TRENTON FALLS. This most interesting vicinity is well worthy the attention of every person of taste, being jystly considered one of the finest natural scenes in this pert of the country. An excellent inn is kept near the falls. From this house you descend a long staircase down the steep bank of the West Canada Creek, which has cut a frightful chasm through a rocky range, in some places 150 feet deep, and is seen gliding swiftly by through a declining channel be- low. The chasm continues for four miles, and presents the greatest variety of cascades and ra- pids, boiling pools and eddies. The passage is everywhere very narrow, and in some places it has been often necessary to form an artificial path by means of gunpowder. These places appear dangerous, but only require a little caution and presence of mind to ensure the safety of the visi- ter, as strong iron chains are fixed into the rocks to ofler him security. There are four principal |: i\ SI 56 ROUTE TO NIAGARA. I'M cataracts, between the staircase by which you first descend and the usual limit of an excursion, which is about a mile and a quarter up the stream. The first of these you discover soon after the first turning, and is about 40 feet high ; with the greatest fall towards the west. The top of the rock on the right side is 150 feet high by line mea- surement. The second is a regular fall, much like a mill dam, about eight feet high; the third, a remarkably striking and beautiful one ; and the fourth, rather a succession of cascades, but presents many most agreeable varieties. Near the foot of this a melancholy accident oc- curred in 1827. A lady from New-York was drowned by slipping from a low bank; unseen, although her friends and parents were near her. A singular species of tree is found in this neighborhood, called the white cedar, with droop- ing branches, which often grow to such a length as to descend far below the root, towards the water. The rocks here are all a dark limestone, of a very slaty structure, and contain astonishing quantities of petrified marine shells and othe.' animals of antideluvian date, such as dilobites, trilobites, &c. &c. There are several other cataracts besides those already mentioned, both above and below ; and a stranger might spend some time here very agreea- bly in observing them at leisure, and in catching the fine trout with which the creek abounds. i FORT STaNV/IX, 57 ;y'OU first iif wiiich n. The the first vith the p of the ine mea- luch like le third, le ; and ides, but dent oc- jrk was unseen, jcar her. in this 1 droop- a length irds the riestone, )nishing othe.* ilobites, es those J ; and a agreea- atching ids. FROM UTICA TO SYRACUSE. By the Canal 633 miles. Whitestown, . . . . .4 miles;. Oriskany village 7 Rome on the right, . . . . 8 Feeder from Wood Creek, and the old U. S. Arsenal, .... 1 Oneida Creek, ... 14 Lock 54, end of the long level, 29 Syracuse, .... — £ Theye places are noticed in succession. "Whitestown is one of the most beautiful villa- ges in this part of the state, as well as the oldest settlement. All this tract of country was a per- fect wilderness in 1785, when Mr. White, from Middletown in Connecticut, first took up his abode here and lifted an axe against the forest. The traveller may keep this in mind as he pursues his journey, and the progress of civilization will ap- pear more astonishing. SEIGE OF FORT STANWIX. On the road from Whitestown to Rome, is the spot where Gen. Herkimer remained under a tree after re- ceiving his mortal wound. In 1777, Gen. Bur- goyne sent between 1500 and 1800 men, many of them savages, under Haron St. Leger, from Mon- treal, by Lake Ontario, to attack Fort Stanwix; and *hen to go down the Mohawk to Albany. Early in August, they arrived at Fort Stanwix. Gen. Herkimer, commander of the militia of Try- on county, was sent against them with 800 men. His men insisted on going on, to meet a detach- ment under Sir J. Johnson, sent out by St. Le- ger ; but at the first shot they fled. A few re- 5 I 58 ROUTE TO NIAGARA. mained and fought, and Gen. H. was killed. Con- gress voted a monument to his niemory, bvt it has never been erected. The Americans lost 160 killed, and 240 wounded and prison{;rs. Two rrJ^es below Fort Stanwix the canal ucriju:enccs between the Mohawk and Wood Creek. Fort Stanwix stood 60 or 80 rods N. E. of the centre of the village of Rome, with a deep ditch, three rows of palisadoes, and a block-honse in the middle. Rome. Near this village, when the caral was opened through a ridge of diluvial formation, clams were found alive, which were eaten by the workmen. (See Am. Journ. of Sci. &c. 1829.) ONEIDA CASTLE. Tliis is a village on the confines of a tract of reserved land belonging: to the Indians of the Oneida nation. The principal residences of most of the Indians in this part of the country were formerly fortified in a manner corresponding with their ideas of woUare, and hence the name of castle attached to this village, as well as to several others which we have occa- sion to speak of further on. The Oneidas were one of the original Five Na- tions, which form so conspicuous a figure in the history of this state. A mile east of O :^a Creek, and by the road side 's the ancient COUNCIL GROVE, where all the public business of the nation was for many years, transacted. It is formed of 27 fine butter- nut trees, which, in the summer season, from a little distance, presents a most beautiful and regu- lar mass of verdure. Towards the 5outh-east from this place is seen the Episcopal church for the use of the Indians. I UYRACOSE. s§ jd. Con- , bnt it lost 160 s. Two aii:enccs iJ. of the jp ditch, koiise in ral was rniation, n by the 1829.) e on the Jgingr to )rincipal part of manner ^re, and village, e occa- ive Na- in the e road where r many butter- fro m a d regu- 3t from or the 1 A cori«iilivable portion of the tribe have recent- ly removed to Green Bay. The Oneida nation were idolatrrs until within a short timt; ; but a few years ago the nation re- nonnceu their ancient superstitious rites, and de- clared in favor of Christianity. BROTHERTOWN AND NEW STOCK- BRIDGE, Are two villages, a few miles south- easterly from here, situated on part of the old Oneida reservation, but granted to some of their scattered Indian brethren from Pennsylvania and New-England. New-Stockbridge, until recently, was the residence of the Stock-bridge tribe, who came by an invitation from the Oneidas some years ago. They had Christian ministers among them long before they removed from Stock-bridge in Massachusetts. Most of them now reside at Green Bay, on land given them by the Menorai- nies. Manlius Centre, 50 yards from the canal and two miles east of Manlius Centre, is a curious spring, from which sulphuretted hydrogen rises, which is inflammable. SYRACUSE. The great Salt Spring is only a mile and & ' alf distant, and the water is brought in hollow Ir < to the salt vats, in great abundance, and at a very trifling expense. The vats will be seen at ihe western side of the villaore, as well as the woik» at Salina, Liverpool (6 miles distant), and Ged- desburgh. In all these four villages, about 500 acres, in 1827, were supposed to be covered with vats, for solar evaporation. The vats are large pans made of wood, three or four inches deep, m m !i 60 ROtTE TO NIAOAilA. raised a little fiom the ground, and placed in long ranges, with a very gradual descent, to permit the salt water to flow slowly along from one end to the other. Each range of vats is supplied by a hollow log placed perpendiculary in the ground : and the constant action of the sun evaporates the water, and leaves the salt to be deposited in small cubical crystals at the bottom. The water is at first a little thick, but gradually deposites its im- purities ; and the lower vats always show a beau- tiful white crust, like the purest snow. Light wooden roofs are kept ready to slide over the vats when the weather requires it ; and the salt is taken out once in two or three days, to be deposited in the storehouses, which are built at regular distances. Thence it is easily removed to the canal, and then is ready for transportation to any part of the country. In 1823, there were about 100 houses, and the number was doubled in 1824. In 1827, the salt vats covered one hundred and sixty acres, and cost the companies engaged, ^120,000. The Osv^ego CanaL was opened in July, 1828, leaves the Erie canai at this place, and affords a direct communication with Lake Ontario. A lake ship canal might be made at a small additional ex- pense. The bank is used as a tow path a consi- derable distance. The shores rise gradually to a hei(^ht of 100 feet, with few inhabitants and little cultivation. The locks and other works are of the 1 pst description, and very admirable workman- Ebip, A barrel of flour will go for six cents less, by tie Like and this canal, from Roohester to S«i- i' 8ALINA. 61 id in long ermit the e end to lied by a ground : urates the I in small ater is at \9 its im- v^ a beau- ilide over and the lys, to be I built at mal, and irt of the and the the salt ;res, and y, 1828, affords a A lake onal ex- a consi- ally to a md little are of orkman- nts less, r to Sa- lina. It is 38 miles lonor. Half that distance it is constructed along the bank of the river of the same name, connected, with it by locks, and the other half is slack-water navigation in the river. It has 22 bridges, 7 culverts, 1 aqueduct, 2 waste weirri, 8 dams across the river, 13 locks of stone and 1 of stone and timber, with an aggregate lift of 123 feet. SALINA, Is situated a mile and a half north from Syracuse, The mode of evaporation gen- erally adopted here, is that of boiling. Each building contains sixteen or eighteen large iron kettles, of 120 gallons each, which are placed in two rows, forming " a block.*' They stand about three feet higher than the floor; and under them is a large furnace, which is heated with pine wood, and requires constant attention to keep the water always boiling. The water is drawn from a large reservoir at one end of the building, after having been allowed to stand awhile and deposite the impurities it has brought along with it. A hollow log, with a pump at one end, and furnished with openings against the kettles, is the only ma- chine used in filling them. The first deposite made by the water after the boiling commences, is a compound of several substances, and is thrown away, under the name of " Bittern ;'' but the pure white salt, which soon after makes its appearance, is carefully removed, and placed in a store-room just at hand, ready for barrelluig and the market. Each manufactory yields about 75 bushels a day. There are two large manufactories here, where salt is made in reservoirs of an immense size, and evaporated by hot air passing through them in 5# I 62 ROUTE TO NIAGARA. i^^ large pipes. The reservoir of the principal one contains 40,000 gallons. The pipe is supplied with heat by a furnace below, ancl the salt is form- ed in large loose masses, resembling half-thawed ice. The crystalization also is different from that produced by the other modes, at least in secon- dary forms. The village of Salina is of considerable size and a flourishing appearance. In 1833, it con- tained 8000 inhabitants; the village of Geddes, .520; and Liverpool, 375. The extensive marshes which bound it on the west are imwh(»lesome du- ring the warmer seasons of the year, and the whole neighborhood is more or less infected with the fev^r and ague. Since the marshes have been partially cleared and drained, the disease has been greatly diminished. The branch canal wliich runs through this vil- lage, is made to turn several mill wheels in its course. A forcing pump raises the water of the salt spring destined to supply the manufactories here and at Syracuse ; that for the latter being elevated to the height of 70 feet, and the pump being able to raise 120,000 gallons in 24 hours. The Salt Spring itself will be viewed as a cu- riosity, but in its present state presents no very remarkable appearance.* The Lake will be seen at the distance of about a mile. It is six miles long and two broad, and must receive a considerable quantity of saltwater from the draining of the marshes, as its banks are covered with saline plants. The valley la sur- * Quantity of «alt inspected in 1831, 1.514,057 buihelj'; duty to the States, 12i cents per bushel. Ahout 5 millions of bushels are made in the U- States, and the same quantity imported annually. SYRACUSE TO ROCHESTER. 63 ipal one supplied i is form- f-thawed rom that n secon- ible size it con- Geddes, marshes iome du- and the ted with ave been las been this vil- s in its r of the actories r being e pump ours, as a cu- Do very f about ad, and It water nks are ig sur- diity to the nado in the i '¥ \ founded by limestone hills, with petrifactions; and gypsum is found in great quantities. *' The American Salt Forrnation,^^ says Dr. Van Renselaer in his * Essay,' "extends over the continent from the Alleghanies to the Pacific, be- tween 31° and 45° N. lat. In this immense tract, rock salt has been occasionally found.; but its lo- cality is more generally pointed out by brine springs." The salt springs in this state are in the counties of Onondaga, Cayuga, Seneca, Onta- rio, Niagara, Genesee, Tompkins, Wayne, and Oneida; but this is the most valuable on various accounts. In 135 manufactories, salt is made by artificial heat, in 3,076 kettles; and the vats would extend if in a line, about 30 miles. In 1831, near 1| millions of pounds of salt, was manufac- tured in all these villages. FROM SYRACUSE TO ROCHESTER. As the traveller is supposed to go to Rochester by the canal, the description of places on the Turnpike is omitted until we reach that part of the country on the return frorr. Buffalo, By the canal, 99 miles. Weed's Basin 26 m. — A coach to Auburn, 8 miles for 50 cents. 11 m. Montezuma Salt Works. Here begin the Cayuga Marshes. The canal across the marshes was constructed at a vast expense. 35 ra. Palmy- ra. Coach to Canandaigua, 13 m. for 75 cents. The Gieat Embankment at Victor, 72 feet high, extending 2 miles. Antiquities, In the towns of Onandaga, Camil- lus, and Pompey, are the remains of ancient vil- lages and forts, of which a description will be found in Yates and Monlton's new History of the State, vol. i, p. 13. In Pompey the form of a H ft ^ n m IS 64 ROUTE TO NIAGARA. Ill I triangular enclosure is visible, with the remains of something like circular or elliptical forts at the corners, 8 miles apart, the whole including more than 600 acres. De Witt Clinton, late Governor of this state, in his memoir, read in 1817, before the Lit. and Phil. Society, thinks the place was stormed on the north line. See also North A- raerican Review. In Camillus is an elliptical fort on a high hilt, three acres in extent, with a covered way, lO rods long, to a spring on the west, and a gate tov^'^rds the east. Another is on a less elevation half a mile off, and half as large. Sculls, pottery, and bits of brick used to be picked up in these places. ROCHESTER Is the largest and most flourishing place in this part of the state, being indeed the fourth in the state in point of numbers, the township contain- ing, in 1833, 10,000. It is situated on the west side of the Genesee river, at the npper falls, where it is crossed by the canal ; and enjoys the finest advantages for water-mills of all kinds, from the convenient and abundant supply obtain- ed from the falls. Stage Coaches go hence, daily, to Buffalo through Batavia; to Canandaigua; to Niagara falls by Lockport and Lewiston, &.c. ^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 "Q ,v d-^ \ <> ^^ ^9) V K, n.^ <^ 66 ROUTE TO NIAGARA. boats, with goods and passengers, glide safely above. A feeder enters the canal on the east side of the river, and sluices are also constructed for the sup- ply of the numerous manufactories built on the banks. All that part of the canal west from Ro- chester, is supplied with water from the Tona- wanta creek. The Fall at Carthage, with the truly impressive scenery of the banks, is worthy of particular at- tention. A Railroad furnishes a conveyance to Carthage. The Lake Ontario Steamboat touches at Port Genesee, at the mouth of the river, on its way to Niagara and to Ogdensburgh — the route to iWon- treal, Carthage. The fall is 70 feet in a few yards. The precipices are walls of secondary rocks, pre- senting their natural stratification, and descending from the surrounding level, to a depth of about two hundred feet. A singular vein of whitish stone will be observed, cutting them horizontally, and disappearing at the brink of the falls, which it has kept at their present position : its superior hardness, evidently resisting the action of the water for a much longer time ; and probably ren- dering the descent more perpendicular than it would Jiherwise be. The rocks are overhung with thick forest trees. One of the boldest single fabrics that art has ever successfully attempted in this country, now shows a few of its remains in this place. The two great piles of timber which stand opposite p^ch other on the narrow level, where once the i '>w_.. ROCHESTER TO NIAGARA. 67 dc safely ide of the ir the sup- It on the from Ro- the Tona- mpressive ticular at- Carthage. IS at Port its way to ie to MoU' ew yards. rocks, pre- lescending 1 of about of whitish rizontally, Is, which s superior on of the |bably ren- r than it overhung it art has ^itry, now ice. The opposite once the river flowed, are the abutments of a bridge thrown over a few years ago. It was 400 feet in length, and 250 above the water; but stood only a short time, and then fell with a tremendous crash, by its own weight. Fortunately, no person was crossing it at the time — a lady and gentleman had just before passed, and safely reached the other side. On account of the obstructions at the falls, nav- igation is entirely interrupted here ; and all the communication between the banks of the Gene- see, as well as the canal, and Lake Ontario, is through Carthage. Merchandise is raised up the bank, or lowered down, by means of an inclined plane, very steep, where the descending weight is made to raise a lighter one by its superior gravity. ROAD FROM ROCHESTER TO NIAGARA FALLS, 87 miles. To Carthage Falls 2 Parma 9 Clarkson* 7 Hartland 14 Sandy Creek 7 To Gainps 8 Oak Orchard 7 Cambria 11 Lewiston 15 Niagara Falls 7 The principal objects on this road are, the Ridge, Lewiston, on Niagara river, and the Tus. carora Village. Niagara Village will be seen if you do not cross into Canada at Lewiston ; and Queenstown if you do. Lockport should, by all means, be visited. * Holley Village, 25 miles west of Rochester, is 12 miles distant from the sulphuric acid spring in Byron. There are but two others known iu the world : one in the ancient crater of Mount Idienne in Java, and the other in the Rio de Vinagre, or Vinegar river, flowing from the extinct volcano of Purace, near Popayan, in the waters of which fish will not live, and the spray of which irritates and inflames the eyes of travellers. '1 i; ;h i 68 ROUTE TO NIAGARA. The Ridge is a remarkable elevation, of little height and for the most partx^ery narrow, extend- ing a great part of the distance from Rochester to Lewiston. It is often perfectly level for sev- eral miles, and affords an admirable foundation for the road, which has, in consequence, been laid along its top. Some have imagined that the ridge was, at some long past period, the shore of Lake Ontario, and was thrown up by its waves* The ground presents a slope on each side of the path, peculiarly well adapted for home lots, gardens, and orchards; and well-built, and even handsome, houses will be observed, which are still few indeed, but show that a good style has actually been introduced. Gasportj 6^ miles east of Lockport, derives its name from the carburetted hydrogen gas which rises in the basin of the canal. LOCKPORT- This is one of the interesting places on the canal. Here is the noblest display of locks, two ranges, made of fine hewn stone, being construct- ed against the brov/ of the Mountain Ridge. Above the locks, the Deep Cut offers a singular passage between high walls of rocks. Lockport is one of the most advantageous sites for machinery on the canal, as all the water pas- ses down the mountain ridge, which the canal re- quires, for an extent of 135 miles ; Tonawanta creek being the only feeder from Buffalo to the Seneca river. It is brought down by passing round the double locks, and falls 55 feet into a large natural basin, where two ranges of overshot wheels may be built, each at least 2%> feet in di- h m0im FALLS OF NIAGARA. 69 , of little V, extend- lochester I for sev- Dundatioii , been laid I the ridge 3 of Lake h side of Lome lots, and even w^hich are style has derives its las which s on the ocks, two Iconstruct- ^n Ridge. singular eous sites [vater pas- canal re- [onawanta llo to the passing let into a overshot let in di" k ameter. The rocks are blasted out to a depth of 00 feet. Within a few years, the spot has been changed from a wilderness to a village of 2,300 inhabitants. It is 65 miles to Rochester, and 27 to Buffalo. Pop. in 1830, 3823. Minerals. The rocky stratum is a carbonate of lime, containing organic remains ; cncrinites, enchrocites, &c. &c. crystals of carb. lime; rhom- boidal, dogtooth spar, 12 sided; fluate of lime; beautiful crystals of sulphate of lime ; sulph. of strontian ; pyrites; sulphuret of zinc ; sulphuret of lead. Collections of minerals may be pur- chased here. The Tuscarora reservation is an oblong tract of land reaching within a mile of Lewiston. They emigrated from North Carolina, near the beginning of the last century, at an invitation from the Five Nations, and were admitted on equal terms into their confederacy, which has since re- ceived the name of the Six Nations. They have had a clergyman settled among them for many years, and Christianity has been voluntarily adop- ted by them. Their village has some handsome and well-cultivat ' farms, and a house built for public worship. THE FALLS OF NIAGARA-/rom the Amer- ican side. The Hotels are large buildings, very well kept and commodious. The height of the fall on this side is 160 feet perpendicular, but somewhat broken in several places by the projecting rocks. It extends 300 yards to a rock which interrupts it on the brow of the orecipice. A narrow sheet appears beyond 6 II: I 70 FALLS OF NIAUAHA. it, and tlien comes Goat Island, with a mnral pre- ci|)ice. Between this and the other shore is the Grand Crescent, for which see a few pajres be- yond. There is a bridge to the ishmd, which com- mands many line views of the falls. It rests on wooden piers sunk with stones. Tlie Staircase conducts safely to the bottom of the preci])ice ; and boats may row up near to the cataract. The Sorcerer'* s Cave, — A very singular cavern was discovered, in 1825, about half a mile below the falls, which is reached by descending the old Indian ladder, a steep path-way, rendered passa- ble hy roots, rocks, «fec. The cave is about 80 yards below the ladder. The way to it is dilli- cult; the passage is barely large enough to admit a man, and in it are found stalactites, and speci- mens of something that seems like petrified moss or wood. About 20 feet above is a beautiful spring, issuing from a rock, in a singular rocky position ; and there is another cave near by, which is also worthy of a visit. About two miles below the falls, is a Mineral Spring, said to contain sulphuric and muriatic acids, lime, and magnesia. There is a ferry at Lewiston, which is about half a mile across ; but the current is strong on this side, and the eddy sets np with such force on the other, that a boat moves more than double that distance in going over. The banks here have an appearance very wild and striking. The rocks are a dark red sandstone, with thin strata of a more clayey character and a lighter qolor, occurring every few feet. i \ t'ALLS OF NIAGARAi Tl mural prc- Iiorc is the pujres be- kvliich corn- It rests oil ! bottom of near to the jlar cavern mile below ini^ tlic old cred passa- j about 80 it is dilFi- rh to admit and speci- rified moss 1 beautiful lar rocky by, which a Mineral d muriatic is about strong on h force on an double i here have with thin a lighter Quccnstoum^ on the Canada side of the river, U a e-mail town. THi: BATiLi: Ol'^ QIJKKNSTOWN. Du- ring tfie late war bctwc^cn the United States and (Jreat Britain, in liU'i, while (jen. Van Rcns^se- laer was stationed atLewiston, he formed the bold design of taking Quecnstown ; and before day- light on tiic morning of Octobor l^ith, emharked his troops at the ferry, and passed over the river under cover of a battery. 4s the accessible points on the coast were strictly watched, and de- fended by batteries, the place selected for the at- tack was the lofty and f)rocipitous bank just above. Two or three small batteries had been erected on the brow, the remains of which are still visible. The heights were surmounted, and the Americans commenced a brisk action on the summit. Gen. Brock, vvho was it a distance, hearing the guns, hastened to the spot; but under a tree near the precipice was killed by a chance shot. The Amer- icans remained in possession of the heights a few hours, but were then obliged to recross the river. The Monument to General Brock was rai- sed by the British government in the year 1824 at Queenstown ; and the remains of Gen. Brock and Col. M*Donald, his aid, have since been deposited there. Its height is 126 feet; and the view from the top is very fine and extensive, the base being 350 feet above the river. In clear weather, the eye embraces not only the river below, and the towns of Lewiston and Queenstown, but those of Newark and Fort Niagara, at the entrance of Lake Ontario, York harbor, Youngstown, part of the route of the Welland canal, a vast level tract of II I I: II I' !!! I! ii! 1 n FAT.LS OF NtACJAUA. country covered witli n uniform forent, and tlic liori/on, fonncil by the distant lake itfself. The monument \n huilt of a eoarno j^ray linn*- «tone, of which the hill is formed, and contains some shells and other or i ii.» i m""W n ft >TJii FALLS OF XIAC.ARA. 75 can be ay. •om the is majj- sitlcrcd he fall icular ; 3scrves , a (Jis- Island nils an side is n; yet, escent, [jualled height om by Amer- ind the t; and n a lit- :o visit t from »f light ispect. , only lids of e gulf luty. es, in pass- at the lb feet deep. The current probably runs six miles an hour; but supposing it to be only 5 miles, the quantity that passes the falls in an hour, is more than 85 millions of tons avoirdupois ; if we sup- pose it to be 6, it will be more than 102 millions; t.nd in a day would be 2400 millions of tons. The noise, it is said, is sometimes heard at York, 50 miles. The Rapids begin about half a mile above the cataract; and, although the breadth of the river might at first make them appear of little impor- tance, a nearer inspection will convince the stran- ger of their actual size, and the terrific danger of the passage. The inhabitants of the neiglibor- hood regard it as certain death to get once invol- ved in them; and that not merely because all es- cape from the cataract would be hopeless, but because the violent force of t!io water among the rocks in tiie ehnnnc 1, would instantly dash the bones of a man in pieces. Instances are on record of persons being carried down by the stream ; but no one is known to have ever survived. In- deed, it is verv rare that the bodies are found ; as the depth of the gulph below the cataract, and the tumultuous agitation tf the eddies, whirlpools, and counter currents, render it difficult for any thing once sunk to rise again ; while the general course of the water is so rapid, that it is soon hur- ried far down the stream. The large logs which are brought down in great numbers during the spring, bear sufficient testimony to these remarks. Wild ducks, geese, &c. are frequently precipita- ted over the cataract, and generally reappear either dead or with their legs or wings broken. i( I ■ f i ,1 m 76 l^ALLS Ot* NIAGARA. Some say that water fowl avoid the place when able to escape, but that the ice on the shores of the river above often prevents them from obtain* ing food, and that they are carried down from the mere inability to Hy; while others assert that they are sometimes seen voluntarily riding among the rapids, and after descending half way down the cataract, taking wing, and returning to repeat their dangerous amusement. In 1828, a small boat passed in safety among the islands below the bridge on the United Stales' side; but in October of that year two men were lost in a boat which was carried down by the ice. JVarrow escapes have since occurred. The most sublime scene is presented to the ob- server when he views the cataract from below ; and there he may have an opportunity of going under the cataract. This scene is represented in the plate. To render* the descent practicable, a spiral staircase has been formed a little way from Table Rock, supported by a tall mast ; and the stranger descends without fear, because his view is confined. On reaching the bottom, a rough path among the rocks winds along at the foot of the precipice, although the heaps of loose stones which nave fallen down, keep it at a considerable height above the water. A large rock lies on the very brink of the river, about 15 feet long and r feet thick) which you may climb up by means of a ladder, and enjoy the best central view of the falls any where to be found. This rock was for- merly a part of the projection above, and fell, a few years ago, with a tremendous roar. It had been observed by Mr. Forsyth to be in a very ' i"W i FALLS OF NIAGARA. 77 e when hores of obtain- n from ert that jamong ' down repeat a small low the 3ctober ich was 3s have the ob« below ; f going nted in able, a y from nd the view is ^h path of the 1 which height le very f feet s of a of the IS for- fell, a [thad very precarious situation, the day before, and he had warneg the American camp the next morning. At 6 in the evening, Gen. Brown ordered Gen. Scott to advance and attack them, which was immediately I % VVELLAND CANAL. 8i e Chip- crossed ivaiiced, )()rt. In jcovered ght (the left (the )g's own Jain the encamp- ?lled the a most y, cross- lev were brigade, a bridge, proper to id to re- i^ounded, loss 328. this until Lundy's d- foil ght he Falls, Since had re- rd Well- of July ittackin^ At 6 in Scott to lediately done ; and in conjunction with Gen. Ripley the attacii was commenced in an hour. The British were much surprised at seeing the approach of their en^my at this hour, not having discovered them until they left the woods and began to march across the open level fiehls seen from Forsyth's Kotel, about a quarter of a mile to the left. For two hours the two hostile lines were with- in twenty yards of each other, and so frequently intermingled, that often an officer would order an enemy's platoon. The moon shone bright ; but part of our men being dressed like the Glengarian regiment caused the deception. They frequently charged, and were as often driven back. One re- giment, under Colonel Miller, was ordered to storm the British battery, and took every piece of the enemy's cannon. We kept possession of the ground and cannon until 12 o'clock at night, and then fell back more than two miles, to secure the camp, which might otherwise have been attacked in the rear. The British lost, in killed, wounded, and pri- soners, 878 ; and the Americans 860. WELLAND CANAL. It may well be recommended to the traveller to devote a little time to visiting this new, important and highly interesting work, which can be done by those who have a short time to spare. The improvement of Upper Canada has had to encounter great obstacles in the climate, the wild- ness of the country, the vicinity of a land under a different system of government, the large re- serves of soil for the support of the clergy, (oi*e- seventh of the whole,) and a general want of in- 7 ? i> 82 ROUTE TO NIAGARA I tellistacles. and Ri- s raised nd pro- >rt Dal- 1 River, he falls, rsh at a to Wel- [ueduct, sage of vessels; and then ah)ng the northern bank, to the Deep Cut, at the northern end of which it de- scends by two locks, whence it descends to the level of Lake Ontario. It is a fact well established by scientific survey- ors, that only a narrow ledge of rocks occurs be- tween the two ^akes, and that, if this were remov- ed, the soil is generally of so loose a nature, that a current of water might soon wear away a deep channel, drain off Lake Erie, and cause a tremen- dous inundation. This barrier will be seen at the Mountain Ridge, on the northern part of the Ca- nal where the descent is above 300 feet. From Lake Erie to that place the stranger will observe that he proceeds on an almost uninterrupted level. The continuation of the Mountain Ridge forms the Falls of Niagara, and the elevation of ground at Lockport, surmounted by the noble works at that place. It runs for many miles, presenting towards the east an irregular line of precipice, with salient and re-entering angles, like an im- mense fortification. Most of the streams which fall over it pour down the ravines thus formed, and there is reason to suppose one of these natur- al ravines received the Niagara river at the Falls; and that the apparent attrition of the rocks for a great distance below, and the general belief of the cataract having retired for miles, are not to be confided in. The Welland or Chippewa River, a very slug- gish stream, has a course of 30 or 40 miles, be- tween the two lakes, but neaily on a level with Lake Erie, and empties into Niagara River about two miles above the falls. 1 1 '\\ m I I M I,! i 84 FALLS OF NIAGARA. The Deep Cut, extends one mile and three quar- ters, and reiiuircd the excavation of 1,477,700 cu- bic yards of earth. The excavation is now to an average depth of 45 feet. The ground is undula- ting, and the greatest depth is 56 feet. This is the greatest work of the kind in Ameri- ca, excepting perhaps the aqueduct on the plain of Mexico. The earth, to 12 or 18 feet below tlie surface, was clay mixed with a little sand. Below that was a hard blue clay, frequently re- quiring the pickaxe. The earth dug out near the middle of the cut was raised up the brinks, which are )50 feet apart at the deepest places, as the na- ture of the soil required a gradual slope. In 1828, however, great masses sunk down again into the canal, so that the excavations are made to a level 17 feet above that at first designed. Lock No. 1, of the Mountain Ridge, is 4 miles and 23 chains from the Deep Cut. The interven- ing surface is undulating, and the canal passes al- ternate ravines and ridges. By damming the for- mer a little way from the line on the left, numer- ous pools, or reservoirs (taken together, two miles in length) were formed. Near the brow of the Mountain Ridge is an elevation, which required an excavation nearly 20 feet deep for 20 chains. On this level are four twin bridges, with hutments 40 feet asunder, cor- responding with the breadth of all the locks west- ward of this place, which are 40 feet by 125, and able to admit steamboats up to this point, either from Grand River or Niagara River, by the Wel- }and. liOcks Nos. 1,2, 3, 4, are in a ravine 52 chains \ PORT DALHOUSIE. 05 ree quar- 7,7UO cu- ovv to an s uiidula- in Ameri- the plain ct below tie sand, ently re- i near the ks, which as the na« lope. In vn again are made rned. is 4 miles interven- passes al- g the for- t, numer- two miles [Ige is an nearly 20 are four ider, cor- cks west- 125, and It, either the Wel- )2 chains in length, wliiclj introduces the stranger to the most remarkable scene ot* the kind in the world. The Mountain Ridge, Within the extent of a mile and 55 chains are 17 locks of 22 feet by lOO, which overcome nearly the whole elevation of Lake Erie above Ontario. The canal winds aionjr the face of the descent, bending to the left and the right, to give room for reservoirs between the locks, necessary for a convenient supply of water-. None of the locks are less than 30 yards apart. This is the only part of the route where rocks were to be excava^'^d. and the amount of rock re- moved here was 70,000 cubic yards. At the foot of tliis long and steep descent the canal enters a ravine which extends two and a half miles through 12 locks, between high banks, to St. Catharine'* s. The descent from the top of the ridge to this place is 322 feet. To Lake Onta- rio from thi- place, five miles, there are four locks 32 feet by 125, and one of ten feet lift. The route runs chiefly along the valley of the principal branch of the Twelve Mile Creek, Port Dalhousie^ tiie harbor of the Welland Ca- nal on Lake G :tario, is protected by two fine piers, run out 200 and 350 yards, nearly at the angle of storm, which is about 80 degrees west : the eastern overlapping the western, with a re- turn pier. A large harbor for boats, and a timber pond for rafts, have been formed by damming the mouth of Twelve Mile Creek, which throws the water back over an area of 500 acres. A waste wier lets off the surplus water without allowing it to enter the harbor, so that there is no current formed through it, and no danger is incurred of 7* ^!> \" ''■ I' . , m ■ if • K I' 'J m 86 FALLS OF NIAGARA. forming a bar at its mouth. A lock of five feet lift raises vessels from the l?arbor to the basin. The Canada Land Company, by whom this magnificent work has been planned and accom- plished, is a corporation, under the parliament of the colony, with a capital oi $800,000, This canal admits lai . essels than any other in America, except the Delaware and Chesapeake Canal in Pennsylvania. The locks are of wood, but built on the most approved principles. The common dimensions are 100 feet long, 22 wide, and 8 deep ; and are calculated for vessels of from 100 to 125 tons burthen. The largest schooners heretofoie used on the lakes, are stated to be not more than 90 feet long, 20 wide, with a burthen of from 60 to 90 tons. Many of the locks re- quire puddling and flagging. The Town of Gvelph is a creation of the year 1827; it was laid out and settled under the direc- tion of the Canada Land Company^ and a village has suddenly sprung up in the midst of the wil- derness. This place is the central settlement on a tract of the Company's lands in the Gore district, called the Township of Guelph, containing 42,000 acres of Crown reserves for the Six Nations. The Clergy Reserves are on the N. E. of it, beyond which are Flamboro' and Beverly. The township of Waterloo is S. S. W. of Guelph, and has a soil of black, fertile, sandy loam, bearing beech, maple, elm, bass, ash, cherry, some pine, cedar, and hem- lock. The surface is irregular, and the streams swift. The town is on the river Speed, 12 miles from its confluence with Grand River, 5 from Wa- tefloo, 14 from Gait, 30 by the present road from AiQC^Ster, and 25 from Lake Ontario. Rivers run THE WESTERN LAKES, 87 five feet Qisin. om this accom- iment of ly other sapeake )f wood, s. The 52 wide, 5 of from hooners o be not burthen [)cks re- the year le direc- L village the wil- ent on a district, r 42,000 IS. The beyond ownship as a soil , maple, nd hem- streams 2 miles om Wa- ad from rers run I I from this town into lakes Huron, Simcoe, Erie, and Ontario. Burlington, The Bay is remarkably fine; it is sheltered from every wind, contains 15,000 acres, and is 25 feet deep. The fort on the heights is very strong and commanding. A large fleet might lie under its protection. DundaSf at the head of Burlington Bay, is a flourishing place, and rising in importance. York, the capital of Upper Canada, is a place of considerable size. The public buildings make little figure. The harbour is very fine, protected by defensive works on Gibraltar Point. King's College is of recent institution, and bears the style and privileges of a university. THE WESTERN LAKES. Ontario is 180 miles long, 40 miles wide, 500 feet deep ; and its surface is computed at 218 feet above the elevation of tide water at Three Rivers, 270 miles below Cape Vincent. Erie is 230 miles long, 50 miles wide, 200 feet deep : and its surface is 565 feet abo^"^ tide water at Albany. Huron is 220 miles long, 100 miles average breadth, 900 feet deep ; and its surface is nearly 595 feet above the tide water. Michigan is 300 miles long, 50 wide, depth un- known ; elevation the same as Huron. Green Bay is about 105 miles long, 20 miles wide, depth unknown ; elevation the same as Hu- ron and Michigan. Lake Superior is 459 miles long, 109 miles av- erage width, 900 feet deep ; and its surface 650 feet above the Ude water. I- P'-. B8 nAtTLE OF r.niK. ii [lonce the bottom of Lake Erie is not as low aa the foot of Niajrara Falls; but the botfoin of each of the other lakes, it will be observed, iL> lower than the surface of the ocean. **Lake Superior is the head fountain, the p^rand reservoir of the rnij^hty volume. After makinjr a semi-circle of five degrees to the soutf),acconimo- datinjr and enriching one of the most fertile and interesting sections of the globe, it meets the tide a distance of 2O0O miles from its source, and 5000 from the extreme point of its estuary, on the At- lantic coast." The lakes have a periodical rise once in twelve years. It occurred in 1815 and 1827. From Niagara Falls^ to Biijfalo on the Canada side 28^ miles. To Chippewa, 2 miles. Waterloo, (Fort Erie,) . . 16 (Over the ferry to Black Uock, 25 cts. each pas- senger.) Buffalo, 2J Opposite Buffalo, in Waterloo^ are the remains of Fort Erie, a fortress of great consecjuence in the late war. There was a strong wall surrounded with intrenchments reaching to the Lake. The remains of the British camp are also seen, and the trees are still wounded with shot. Battle of Erie, On the I7th of September,18l4, a severe action was fou({ht at a little distance from Fort Erie, when a part of the American garrison, 1000 regulars, and 1000 militia, made a sortie, and took the British works, about 500 yards in front of their line. The British had two batteries on their left, which annoyed the fort, and were about REMARKS ON UPPER CANADA. 89 [\s low na n of each ie> lower he ^rand making a ccornmo- tntilc and s the tide and 5000 jn the At- in twelve le Canada dies. each pay- e remains ((uence in liirrouniUMl ko. The n, and the Lber,18l4, lance from garrison, ;orti€, and Is in front itteries on xre about o|)oning a third. Their camp was ahoiit two miles (Hslaiit, sheltered hy a wood ; their works were garrisoned with one-third of their infantry, from 1'^ to 1500 men, and a detachment of artillery. Gen. Porter, with the volunteers, Col. Gibson with the ridemen, and Maj. Brooks with the 23d and 21st li^ht infantry, and a few dismounted dragoons, were sent from the extreme left of the American position, by a passage cut through the woods, towards the enemy's right; and Gen. Mil- ler was stationed in the ravine between the fort and the enemy's batteries ; while Gen. Ripley had a reserve under the bastions. A little before 3 P. M. the left columns com- menced their attack upon the enemy's right ; and Gen. Miller at the same time pushed forward be- tween Nos. 2 and 3 of the batteries, broke their line, and took their two blockhouses. Battery No. 1 was soon after deserted, the guns were spiked, and the magazine of No. 3 was blown up. Gen. Ripley was wounded, and Col. Gibson killed. The action lasted about an hour, which gave time for the remaining two-thirds of the enemy's force to march from their camp and partake in it. The Americans at length retired with prisoners, having succeeded in their object. The British suffered so much, that Lieut. Gen. Drummond broke up his camp on the 21st, and retired to his intrenchments behind the Chippewa River. General Remarks on Upper Canada, This ex- tensive district has increased in population with great rapidity, and great exertions are making to introduce improvements of various kinds. Emigration has been so much encouraged by the m mm i)'-^ II 90 ROUTE PROM NIAGARA TO MONTREAL. British )vernment, for the peopling of this part of their possessions, that great numbers of Irish, Scotch, and English have come over within a lew years. From Niagara Falls to Buffalo on the American side, 23J miles, Tonawanta Creek, where the canal passes, 11 miles, Black Rock, 10 Buffalo, • . . . 2\ To Fort George, 14 miles. Queenstown, 7 Fort George, 7 [The route from Niagara to Albany and the Springs will be taken up after the route to Mon- treal.! See 2?. 94. ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO MONTREAL, 392 miles. Those who have never travelled through the state of New-York, and have leisure to make so circuitous a route, will prefer to go to Buffalo, Lockport, or Rochester, and lake the line of the Erie Canal, the Springs, Lake George, and Lake Champlain in their way to Montreal. Many, how- ever, will prefer to take the more direct route, which is by the steamboats through Lake Ontario. The American boats go from Fort Niagara to Ogdensburgh, keeping towards the southern shore, and touching at the principal ports. The British boats make a few stops, but steer a course very near the middle of the lake, which is the boundary between the two countries. They are usually out of sight of land about twelve hours. There are several high points on the northern shore. The EA.L. PORT GENESEE. 91 f this part rs of Irish, ithin a few American ises, 11 10 2^ 7 ' 7 ny and the ate to Mon- >NTREAL, hroiigh the to make so to Buffalo, line of the and Lake lany, how- Irect route, Ike Ontario, iagara to lern shore, he British ourse very boundary sually out There are ore. The most important are the cliffs of Torento, the Devil's Nose, and the Fifty Mile Hill. The steamboats go to York in about 4i hours;- stop at Kingston* in about 24 hours from Niagara, and at Prescott in twelve hours more ; thence stage coach to Cornwall ; whence a steamboat, in five hours, brings you to the foot of Lake St. Francis. A steamboat of 69 horse power was built in 1827 to pass the rapids at Coteau du Lac, and to take passengers to the village of the Cedars, nine miles further than heretofore by water. From the Cedars to the cascade is in stage coaches, about 16 miles. Thence a steamboat goes in 4 hours to Lachine ; and thence to Montreal a stage coach, which stops at the Exchange Coffee House. Port Genesee^ 72 miles, at the mouth of the Genesee River, is a port of entry and delivery. Here are a Custom-house, and the village of Char- lotte, in Monroe county. This river rises in Penn- sylvania, and runs a gently winding course about 125 miles in the state of New-York. It is naviga- ble only four miles from its mouth, to Carthage, where the banks are high, rocky and perpendicular; and there is a fine fall (104 feet, including the ra- pids, &.C.) about half a mile above. Stage coaches are in waiting for Rochester, six miles. See Car- thage j page 66. Great Sodus Bay, 35 m. Here are three bays in succession ; Sodus, East, and Port Bays. There are three Islands, and Port Glasgow is at the head of the bay, only 10^ miles from Clyde, on the ca- nal, with a good road to it. * At Kingston, ({J. C) is to be seen theCataraqui Fridge and the canal, botwecu Luko Ontario ail J tlie Ottawa River. m i 92 PORT OSWEGO. Oswego, 28 m. This village is situated at the mouth of Oswego River, and has a good harbor, with ten feet water. Navigation on this river end- ed half a mile above, except for boats, which went 12 miles further. The Oswego Canal was completed in 1828. It joins the Erie canal at Salina, and will afford an interesting excursion either way. From the head of the falls to the village, it leads along the river's bank, preserving the elevated level almost to the brow of the hill over the Lake, and then descends by locks. For the distance of a mile the interval between the canal and the river affords the most advantageous situations for manufactories of va- rious descriptions. Lake vessels can lie on one side of the manufactories and canal boats on the other ; and Congress have appropriated ^35,000 for protecting the harbor with piers. The lake is 70 miles wide opposite Oswego. Fort Oswego, so famous in the history of the French and Revolutionary wars, stands on the east side of the river. While this pust was held alternately by the French and English, they could command a great part of the trade with the Five Nations of Indians, who inhabited the country with which it communicated. Fort Oswego is elevated only about 50 feet from the level of the water ; and being overlooked by the eminence on which Fort Ontario was afterward erected, was fit only for a defence in early times. A trading house was built here in 1722, and a fort five years after. This was extended in the begin- ning of the French war of 1755, when Fort Ontario was built. In the following year, General Mont- i I ' CAPE VINCENT. 98 ed at the d barbur, river end- hicb went 1828. It afford an [1 tbe bead tbe river's lost to tbe [1 descends he interval s the most ries of va- lie on one )ats on tbe ed $35,000 The lake is ory of tbe ids on tbe it was held tbey could tbe Five le country feet from [looked by afterward irly times, and a fort I tbe begin- >rt Ontario ;ral Mont- calm came from Canada, and beseiged tbe fortresses with 3000 troops, and two vessels. Fort Ontario was evacuated after one attack ; and on the follow- ing day, August l4th. Fort Oswego surrendered to tbe French, with a large quantity of stores, brought at great expense through the wilderness, and 21 cannon, 14 mortars, &c. also two sloops, and about 200 boats. The captors, however, did not think proper to bold the position, but ihjmediately aban- doned it. Col. St. Legcr attempted to approach Albany by this route in 1777, in o der to co-operate with Gen. Burgoyne ; but be was repulsed at Fort Stan- wix, by Col. Willet, and obliged to return. In 1814, on the 6ih of May, tbe British attack- ed the place, and, after a loss of about lOO men, got possession of it, but evacuated it tbe next day. Sacketfs Harbor, 40 m. Settled in 1801. In the late war it became an important naval station, and increased very rapidly. It is 8 miles distant from the lake, on Hounsiow Bay. The harbor is divided into two by a narrow point, and offers great advantages for ship building. On tbe shore are seen the stone Barracks, which enclose about ten acres of ground. Cape Vincent, 20 m. The St. Lawrence is hero divided by Grand Island. Kingston, in Upper Canada, lies opposite, at the distance of 11 miles. Morristown, This is a small village, 10 miles from Ogdensburgb. The river is a little more than a mile in breadth, and on tbe opposite side is Brockville. There is a number of rocky islands in the St. ^lawrence, and the gentle slope of the 8 1 v' F I 94 ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO ALBANY. i ^ r 1<' land on the New-York shore, adds a great degree of beauty to the scene. General Wilkinson embarked at this place in 1813. Ogdenshurgh is the end of the navigation, con- tains some large stores, and carries on considera- ble business. On the other side of the river is Prescott, where the British steamboat stops. The ruins of Fort Oswegatchie, or Fort Presentation, may still be traced. It contained only a bomb- proof, two buildings of stone, barracks, &c. The Thousand Islands are a most beautiful part of the navigation, presenting every variety of forms, though never rising to any great elevation, like the islands of Lake George, Gallop Islands, 5 m. Here the rapids of the St. Lawrence begin. A number of mills will be seen at different places on the shore. On Stony Island was a fort of some consequence, which was taken by General Amherst on his way to Montreal, in the year 1760. St. Regis, 54 m. The Indian tribe which bears this name have a reservation of land here II miles by 3. Lachine, 53 m. (See Index.) Montreal, 9 m. (See do.) ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO ALBANY. Black Rock is a pleasant villaa^e situated on the margin of Niagara River, a little way from its hea(', and opposite Squaw Island, at the mouth of Lake Erie. It was burnt by the British during the war in 1814, but has since been rebuilt and increased to a much greater size. Black Rock disputed with Buffalo Ihe pri\ ilege of having the i \i it degree place in ion, con- onsidera- river i» pg. The sentation, a bomb- &c. Uiful part rariety of elevation, ds of the Is will be On Stony e, which way to BVFPALO. 96 -V, lich bears here 11 basin of the canal built in her harbor, and at last obtained it. A pier about two miles in length was built to secure the boats and vessels from the waves of the lake, as well as to raise the v/ater for the supply of the canal to the Genesee River. The work, however, has its disadvantages: in the swiftness of the current in the river, and the heap- ing up of the ice on the shores. BUFFALO, 3 miles from Black Rock. The situation of this village is remarkably con- venient and agreeable, rising from the immediate vicinity of the lake. The principal street runs along the ridge of the hill, looking out upon Lake Erie to the horizon, and is ornamented with seve- ral fine blocks of brick stores and handsome dwel- ling-houses, together with several public buildings, all erected since the burning of the village by the British in 1814, as well as the buildings in the other streets, which are fast increasing every year. In April 1814, only one house was standing in the village, in the upper part of the principal street. In the middle of the town is a public square, or- namented with public edifices. A walk has also been laid out on the brow of the hill towards the lake. This is called the Terrace, and affords a charming view upon the lake, the harbor, and the canal, to Black Roik. The harbor of Buffalo is singularly fitted by nature for the junction of the two kinds of navi- gation which are here brought together ; the en- trance from the lake being sheltered by the point on which the light-house is erected, and the two small rivers which here unite their waters, afford- ing every convenience for landing and reshipping 96 ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO ALBANY. i li i ! I: l'|: goods. The shores are very bold, and they are connected by a natural channel, which serves the purposes of a basin, as well as of an easy com- munication ; and as the canal to Black Rock com- mences close by it, the inland transportation be- gins without more ado. The water of the Creek is brought into the vil- lage from above the falls, by a canal 3 miles long, for machinery. Pop. in 1830, 8668. About half a mile from Buffalo, the workmen in digging the canal, hit upon a bed of old half- decayed trees, which was dug into to the depth of six feet, and extended about half a mile. Many branches and logs were discovered, which preser- ved all the grain of the wood ; but the greater part was a black mass of matter, which, on being dried, burned with greater readiness. In some places, ashes and coals were found ; and some of the logs appeared to have been washed and rolled by the water of the lake before they were buried. [For t\:3 voyage up Lake Erie and travelling in the West, see the " Western Traveller^^ at the end of this volume.] Ancient Fortifications. On Buffalo Creek, and towards Genesee River also, are several large and interesting remnants of ancient fortifications; but as they lie off the road, few travellers will visit them. They appear t(3 form part of a great chain of defensive works extending frjm the eastern part of Lake Ontario, along that lake a' d Erie, down the Ohio and Mississippi rivers to Mexico. This icJ the opinion of Mr. Atwater, of Circleville, Ohio, who has published some very interesting details, drawings, &c. connected with them, in his i FROM BUFFALO TO CANANDAtGtA. they arc jrves the isy com- ock cotn- ation be- o the vil- iles long, workmen old half- ;he depth e. Many ch preser- e greater , on being In some some of ind rolled re buried, veiling in '" at the llo Creek, eral large [fications ; will visit •eat chain eastern |a' d Erie, Mexico, ircleville, ^teresting \m, in his 97 I. I ** Archaeologia Americana." A line of old forts extends from Cataraiigus Creek, 50 miles, along the shore of Lake Erie, to the line of Pennsylva- nia. They are on the borders of creeks and old bays, although now from two to five miles distant from the lake, which is supposed to have retired that distance since they were built. Another sim- ilar line is said to exist in the rear of them, on another parallel elevation. Seneca Castle, — The Seneca nation possess a large and valuable tract of land adjoining Buffalo, on the east, and they have two villages three and five miles on the road. The Senecas are the west- ernmost tribe in the confederacy of the Five Na- tions, and held a conspicuous rank in their history. They were formerly considered the most nume- rous and powerful tribe, and preserved this supe- riority until the fatal defeat they received from General Schuyler, in 1778. Besides the land they possess, which is remark- able for its fertility, the nation are in possession of a large sum in the United States' Bank stock, the dividend for which they receive annually. The traveller who visits them will observe sev- eral farms under a degree of cultivation, and may meet with individuals who conform pretty nearly to the English style of dress, and have introduced some of our customs into their houses. The greater part of them, however, speak no language but Indian. They have a christian church with a Missionary. Stage Road from Buffalo to Canandaigua. The first few miles of this road present very little interest. 8* '■I tiiii, i! w .'4 H i i? iii kn 98 ROi; rE FROM NIAGARA TO ALBANY. f I h: Batavia, 40 miles from Buffalo, is a very hand- come village, and contains the residence of the present and former agents of the Holland Land Company, as well as the county buildings. Stage coaches run from Batavia to Rochester, Leroy, 10 miles. [Springs. In Avon, 2J miles from the road through that village, are 8 or 10 springs, where are small boarding houses.] The Wadsworth Farm^ at Geneseo, contains about 4000 acres, about 1700 of which are rich alluvial land on the banks of the Genesee river. Various branches of agriculture have been tried on this fertile tract of country ; but the raising of sheep has been found the most profitable, and the farm has been almost entirely converted into mow- ing fields and pastures. The number of sheep, in 1827, was computed at 13,000. The residence of the proprietor is in a fine and spacious build- ing, in a commanding situation ; and the whole aspect of the farm indicates the good order and method with which it is conducted. The Genesee meadows were formerly the resi- dence of a large tribe of Indians of the Seneca nation; and when Gen. Sullivan reached this place, in his march through the country, he found and burnt a village of 120 log houses, on the se- cond bank, which had been deserted at his ap- proach. The remains of a mammoth were dug up about half a mile from the village of Geneseo in J 825. There were 8 teeth and grinders, parts of a tusk, « thigh bone 3 feet long, the lower bone of the 1 BURNING SPRINGS. 90 T hand- 3 of the id Land Stage [le road , where contains are rich ee river, en tried aising of , and the ito raow- >f sheep, residence LIS build- le whole der and the resi- Seneca :hed this Ihe found the se- his ap- up about in 1825. If a tusk, le of the leaf 3 feet 6 inches, &c. They lay between strata of vegetable niouhl and sand. West Bloomjield, beyond the Genesee river, is one of the finest agricultural townships in the state, and presents a succession of beautiful farms, tilled with care and yielding the finest crops. Fruit thrives remarkably well in all this western country, as the slightest attention to the orchards will sufliciently prove. The black apple is a spe- cies of fruit which has been said to be peculiar to this region. East Bloomfield is the next village ; and the general remarks just made, may with justice be applied to this place also. CANANDAIGUA. This is one of the finest western towns, and its principal street runs along the ridge of a commanding hill, rising from the north end of Canandaigua Lake, with an acade- my, and many handsome houses. The road, in passing Canandaigua Lake, commands a finer view than on any of the other lakes it passes, except Skeneateles. The banks are high and variegated, and at the distance of two or three miles, rise to an imposing height, and add a great degree of beauty to the scene. A number of gentlemen's seats are seen along the western bank; and a little way off in the lake on the same side, is a small rocky island, where the Seneca Indians carried all their women, children, and old men, when Gen. Sullivan appeared against them. BURNLNG SPRINGS. Springs of water, charged with inflammable gas, are quite common in Bristol, Middlesex, and Canandaigua. The gas from the former rises through fissures 100 ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO ALBANY. M ft ill f '! ! I 1 ! t i i j ■ ( 1 ■ : of the slate, from both the margin and the bed of a brook. They form little hillocks of a few feet in diameter, and a few inches high, of a dark bitu- minous mould. The gas will burn with a steady flame. In winter they form openings through the enow, and being set on fire, exhibit a steady and lively flame in contact with nothing but snow. In very cold weather, it is said, tubes of ice are form- ed round these currents of gas, (probably from the freezing of the water contained in it,) to the height of two or three feet, and when lighted in a still evening, presenting an appearance even more beautiful than the former. From a pit which was sunk in one of the hil- locks, the gas was once conducted through bored logs, to the kitchen of a dwelling. The road between Canandaigua and Geneva gradually rises by large natural terraces, or steps, for about half the distance, and descends in the same manner on the other side to Seneca Lake. These terraces, appear to have been formed by those strong currents of water of which geologists speak, which at some ancient period of time have evidently passed over many tracts of country in clflferent parts of the world. The' ridges and channels thus formed here stretch north and south, corresponding both in form and direction with the numerous lakes which are found in this part of the state. Several ancient fortifications have been traced here. From the middle ridge the view is extensive. GENEVA. This town occupies a charming situation at the foot of Seneca Lake, and for a mile along its Dia STREAM POINT. 101 bed of }W feet rk bitu- i steady )ugh the idy and ow. In re form- >ly from ,) to the hted in a ren more : the hil- igh bored I Geneva or steps, 3s in the ica Lake. jrmed by eologists ime have untry in jdges and nd south, with the art of the ave been e view is lion at the along its western bank, which rises to a considerable eleva- tion above the surface, nnd aflords room for a broad and level street. The huihiinirs in this vil- lage are remarkably neat and handsome. Seneca Lake is 35 niiles long, and about 3 or 4 wide. Its depth is very grea*, and the water clear and very cold. There is a remarkable pheno- menon long observed by those who reside near it, which has never been satisfactorily accounted for. The water has a regular rise and fail every seven years. The Chemung" Canal extends from the head wa- ters of this lake to the Chemung river, with a feeder. A college has lately been instituted in this place. The building is of stone, with 26 rooms for stu- dents, a chapel, and library. It is warmed only by stoves. The steamboat Seneca Chief, runs daily to Jef- fersonville, (at the head of the lake,) and back again, offering the traveller an agreeable excur- sion. Dresden and Ovid, 12 miles from Geneva, are opposite each other. The former stands at the outlet of Crooked Lake. The Penyan descends nearly 400 feet, affording excellent mill seats. * Starkie^s Point is 6 J miles south of Rapelyea's Ferry. The shore is there very bold, so that the steamboat can pass within a few feet of the land. Much lumber is exported from this place, brought from Eddystown, which is a mile inland. Big Stream Point, 4 miles. Here is a fall in a tributary of this beautiful lake, of 135 feet, by which several mills are supplied. f ii ' i « ,1 i- !f ■ .1 . ■ ■jj .11 i 102 ROUTE PROM NIAGARA TO ALBANY. The eastern shore is pronerally handsomely eiilti- vatccJ ; but near thc^ liend of the lake, on the west- ern side, about 15 nuU*s of the shore is covered with forest. The hind rises, and becomes rough and hilly. Hectares Falls, .3 miles from the lake, arc 150 feet in height, and sui)^)ly several mills. Jeffcr- sonville and Havana are two villages at the head of the lake. [Travelling southward from Geneva, A linn of stage coaelies goes, in connexion with the steam- boat, from Geneva, via Bath, Painted Post, Law- renceville, Willardsburg, Canal Port to Trout Run, and via Ehnira and Troy to Trout Run, and daily, (except Sundays,) from Trout Run through Williamsport, Pennsborough, Milton, Northum- berland, 8unbury, Selinsgrove, Liverpool to Har- risburg. From llarrisburg a line runs every day through to Philadelphia — and one daily, (except Sundays,) to Baltimore and Washington City — through in jive days. Returns in the same way. At Northumberland it intersects a line thnt runs three times a week to Wilkesbarre : at Williams- port, a line that runs to Bellefonte, Alexandria, and intersects the Pittsburg line : at Elmira it in- tersects a line nmning to Ithaca, Owego and Mont- rose : at Bath, a line to Angelica and Olean Point, and one to Dansville, Gcneseo, Rochester, Buf- falo, and Niagara Falls, At Geneva, this line in- tersects 4 daily lines running east and west, and also 3 daily lines running north to the Erie Canal, The journey from Geneva or Rochester to Bal- timore, is performed by this line in five days, by daylight, passing through a fine, healthy, and V. CAYUGA LAKK. 103 i(»ly ciilti- thc wcst- ; covered ics rough ;, arc 160 I. JcfTcr- the head t. A lin'> the steam- V)st, Law- to Trout tRun, and in through Northum- ►ol to Har- every day y, (except on City — same way. that runs Williams- lexandria, ira it in- and Mont- an Point, ter, Buf- is line in- iwest, and ie Canal. er to Bal- days, by Ithy, and highly cultivated country, travrllinp; upwards of 100 niiK;s on the Ixauliiiil hunUs ot the Susque- luinnahy and about .00 miles on the bank of the Pennsylvania canal.] A stage coach runs from Geneva up the east side of the lake, and then crosses to the head of Cayuga lake, to the vilhicre vA' Ithaca; hut the road is not interesting, and the more agreeable mode of reaching that viHage is by taking the steamboat at Cayuga bridge, 14 miles from Ocnc- va, on the great nuiil route. The Cayuga and Seneca Canal, has opened boat navitration between these hikes and the Erie Canal. It passes through Waterloo, from Geneva down the valley of Seneca River to Montezuma, on the Erie canal. It is 20 miles and 21 chains in length, of which ten miles is an independent canal, and the remainder a slack water navigation. It has 7 locks, being 73J- feet lockage, 10 bridges, 5 safety gates, 5 dams, () culverts, 17 miles of fence, 3 lock houses, and 1 collector's office. Cayuga Lake is 40 miles in length, and gene- rally about 2 in breadth. A fine bridge is built across it near the northern end, where it is a mile wide. Steamboats ply between Cayuga bridge and Ithaca, at the head of the lake ; which is one of the pleasantest excursions in this part of the state. It also connects several lines of stage coaches, which the traveller will do well to notice if he wishes to go to Catskill, Newburg, New- York or New-Jersey, by the most direct routes. The price of a passage in the steamboat is one dollar, A little before arriving at the head of the lake, a beautiful waterfall is fjcen on the left hand, m il:t! ■!( ! I ill!' 104 ROUTE PROM NIAGARA TO ALBANY. where a stream flows over a precipice into a deep glen, turning several valuable mills in its course. The landing place is about three miles from the village of Ithaca, but lumber boats can pass the bar at the mouth oi the inlet, and proceed up to the street. The village of Ithaca is neat and flourishing. Here centre three roads to Catskill, Newburg, and New-York, The first leads nearly in a direct line to the Hudson River, the second passes the Great Bend of the Delaware, and the third furnishes daily the shortest route to New-York. The Cascade, about 3 miles from the village, is one of the most picturesque that can be imagined. The Fall river descends 438 feet in a mile. The Great Fall is 116 feet. The other falls in this vicinity are the Cascadilla, Tauqkanic, (262 feet,) Six Mile creek. Buttermilk, &c. Ithaca and Owe g-o Railroad, Thelegis:lature, in 1828, passed an act authorising the construction of a railroad from this place to the Susquehannah river at Owego, The distance is about SO miles. Auburn is another beautiful village, but is un- fortunately placed at some distance from the lake, and therefore is deprived of the picturesque char- acter which it might have enjoyed. There is a Theological Seminary in Auburn, which has a good number of students. The State Prison at Auburn, originally mana- ged by Mr. Lynds, on his system, so excellent, so celebrated, and with remarkable success, merits particular notice. The old Auburn prison was built in 1817, and cost about ^300,000 ; it is constructed upon the \.NY. STATE PRISON. 105 into a deep I its course. s from the in pass the 3ceed up to flourishing. ^wburg', and a direct line es the Great rd furnishes • he village, is be imagined. I mile. The r falls in this ,c, (262 feet,) elegi'-lature, construction squehannah out 30 miles, but is un- rom the lake, resque char- There is a which has a inally mana- excellent, so ;cess, merits in 1817, and ed upon the plan of a hollow square, inclosed by a wall of 2000 feet in extent, being 601) feet on each side, and, for the most part, 35 feet in height. The north wing of the building differs very much in its construction from any building of the kind, and the use of which is conceived to be one of the greatest improvements in prisons, and one of the best aids to prison discipline, which have been any where made. The workshops are built against the inside of the outer wall, fronting towards the yard, from which every shop is visible, forming a continued range of 940 feet. With such altera- tions as it may undergo, it can be made to hold 1 100 convicts. At the close of 1829, it contained 639. "The new building contains 400 cells, and cov- ers only 2(»6 by 46 feet of ground. There are 5 stories of cells, each containing eighty in two pa- rellel lines, divided in the middle by a wall two feet thick. The walls between the cells are one foot thick. The cells are 7 feet long, 7 high, and 3i wide, intended to receive only one convict in each. Each cell has a ventilator extending to the roof, and is so constructed in front, that the pris- oners can neither converse or make signs to each other. The area around the cells is ten feet wide and open to the roof, which covers the galleiies of the several stories. Besides the moral benefit arising from keeping the prisoners separate, it unites th' * of economy and security. From the construction of the prison, 5 small stoves, 6 large and 12 small lamps, all out of reach of the con- victs, afford heat and light to 556 cells; and one sentinel is sufiicieni to 400 prisoners. 9 t 14 I s\ f ?■ !i ll '.: f ' . i ^H I J! m iliili ■11 ; 106 ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO ALBANY. 'I The discipline only requires to be seen to be duly appreciated. The conduct of the prisoners while at their labor, and their quietness under the privations of the prison, prove that the discipline is complete and effective ; and the main cause of of the order and decorum thus observed, is, that in all matters of discipline, there is but one head or principal." Minute observations on the camparative labor of a free person and a convict shows that the lat. ter does not accomplish as much in a day as the former. In this prison, the great system of reforma- tion in discipline commenced. The pardoning power is now exercised with great caution by the executive ; for perhaps no circumstance has so much contributed to do away the terrors of punishment as the facilities afforded the worst part of our species in obtaining a pardon. Ancient Fortifications, There are some re- mains of ancient fortifications in the vicinity of this place, as well as in the neighboring towns of Camillus, Onondaga, and Pompey. FROM AUBURN TO SYRACUSE. By the Canal 34 miles. (Stage coach to Weed's Basin,) 8 miles. Jordan village, in Camillus township, 6. Canton, (half- way village between Buffalo and Albany, 179 miles from the former, and 183 from the latter,) 6 miles. Geddes village, (with salt works,) 12. Syracuse, 2. By the Road 28 miles, Skeneateles, 8. Marcel- lus, 6. Onondaga, 10. Syracuse, 4. Syracuse* For a description of this place, as well as of Salina, the Salt Spring, and Salt Manufactories y see page 59. ■a i lNY. SCHENECTADY TO UTICA. 107 ::en to be prisoners under the discipline 1 cause of , is, that one head live labor lat the lat. lay as the f refornna- cised with )erhaps no o do away Bs afforded a pardon. soncie re- icinity of \g towns of rsE. . IS. Jordan [ton, (half- »any, 179 |he latter,) orks,) 12. I. Marcel- place, as and Salt The routes east of Syracuse, both by the canal and by the road, may be repeated in the reversed order, for travellers going towards Albany. (For places sec Index,) FROM SYRACUSE TO UTICA. By the Canal, 61 miles, Manlius Landing,* 9. Chitteningo Creek, 8. (A curious petrified tree near this place, a few steps from the canal, was found with many of its branches.) C/anastota village and basin, 8 miles. Oneida creek, 5. Wood creek, 13. Rome, 3. Oriska- ny village, 8. Whitesborough, 3. Utica, 4. By the Road 48 miles. Derne, 3. Manlius, 3. Sullivan, 9. Vernon, 11. Westmoreland, 6. New-Hartford, 7. Utica, h, FROM UTICA TO SCHENECTADY. By the Canal, 79^ miles. Lock, No. 53 (end of the long level, which begins westward at Salina, and extends to this place, 69J miles without a lock,) 9 Bridge over the Mohawk, and Herkimer village^, 5 Little Falls, 8 Fall Hill, a mountain on the right, 518 feet higher than the canal, 712 above high water in the Hudson River, and about 145 above Lake Erie. ...... 1 Old Mohawk Castle, 5 Fort Plain 9i. Canajo- harie, 4. Anthony's Nose,t 5 miles. Schoharie Creek, 11. Amsterdam Village, (across the river,) *■ About 20 yards from the canal, Gypsum (plaster of Paris) is obtained in raasies of from 1 to 100 tons. t This scene is represented in the plate, from this side. The bluff on the right is Anthony's Nose, on the top of which a remarkable cavern opens, extending further down than it has ever been explored. p ■ m 108 ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO ALBANY. ill lit!! i: t 'lint ' 1 4 5. Flint Hill, 6. Rotterdam Flats, 8. Schenec- tady, 3. Rail-Road to Albany, 15J- miles. Rail' Road to Ballston and Saratoga, To travellers of leisure and taste, however, the canal boats are recommended to the Mohawk bridge, although they are liable to many delays at the numerous locks along this difficult but in- teresting part of the canal. FROM SCHENECTADY TO ALBANY. By the Canal^ 28 J miles, Alexander's Bridge, (on the turnpike road to Albany and Boston — an interesting scene,) 4^^ Upper Aqueduct, (on which the canal cross- es the Mohawk,) , The Young Engineer, a rock on the right so called, where the cutting is the deepest on the whole route, viz. 32 feet, ... 4 Wat Hoix Gap, 5^ (A natural channel, through which the canal is led more than 200 yards. The rocks are a gray- wacke slate. In the river is the Wat Hoix Rapid, which the Indians called the Evil Spirit, and some- times the White Horse.) Lower Aqueduct, 1188 feet long, on which the canal cro?»ses the Mohawk again, on 24 stone abutments and piers. . . 2^ miles. The four Locks, 8 feet each, and Cohoes Falls, 2 The two Locks, 9 feet each, ... | The three Locks, and the Cohoes Bridge over the Mohawk, J (Hence to Waterford, on the road to Ballston, Saratoga, &c. is about a mile and a half. I Y. Schenec- ^ever, the Mohawk ly delays It but in- JANY. ad ss- . i rbt est e a gray- ix Rapid, nd some- Ich •n 2^ miles, les 2 a 4 t Ballston, DUNNlNG-StREfiT. 109 Tlifi Junction, where the Northern Canal from Lake Champlain meets the Erie Canal ^ West Troy, 1 A good horse ferryboat plies below. United States' Arsenal, 1 Albany, 6 ROUTE FROM ALBANY TO THE SPRINGS. WATERFORD. This village is situated on the western side of the Hudson, across which the communication is convenient by means of the first bridge we have seen over this river* Lan- singburgh stands opposite, and is a place of con- siderable size. The streets of ^^'^aterford are wide, regular, and handsomely buil*. Some of the pri- vate houses are re r.^rkable for their neatness. It is 211 miles to Ballston Springs, and 24 to Saratoga, The approach to the village from the south-west by the canal and the road, is uncommonly beauti" ful. It lies quite below you, with a little meadow in front, bounded by the canal and the Hudson, its white houses mingled with fine trees, and Dia- mond Hill rising behind, with its sides half culti* vated, and half covered with woods. From Waterford to the Springs, by Me- ciianicville. Mechanicville or the Borough, 81 miles from Waterford. Here is a Cotton Manufactory, whence the place derives its former name. Dunning-strect, — Here is a little village, at which the road turns off west for the Springs* About a mile south of it we cross the Northern canah 9* '* 1 m 110 ROUTE TO THE SPRINGS. il '. [Stillwater is 3 miles above, and 4 miles beyond that are Bemis's Heights.] Stillwater takes its name from the smo thness and quietness of the Hudson, which there ^.preads out over a broad surface, and hardly shows any appearance of a current. The reader is referred to the Maps, to observe the importance of the tract of country which lies along the route we have just entered upon. From Canada to the head of Lake Champlain there is an uninterrupted water communication, by which troops and every thing necessary to an army may be transported with the utmost facility. A short land carriage reaches Lake George. Wood Creek, at the south end of Champlain, is navigable in boats to Fort Anne, which is only 9 miles distant from Fort Edward, on Hudson river, whence the navigation is open to New-York. Here have con- sequently been many of the most important mili- tary operations which have ever been carried on in the United States. The first battle, within this region, of which history gives any account was fought between the French and the Five Nations of Indians, soon after the settlement of Canada, when the latter first learned the terrible effect of gunpowder, and began to flee from the approach of civilization. In the numerous expeditions which at subsequent periods were undertaken by the British against Canada, this route was taken in the attack, and not unfrequently in the retreat. The important events of the war of 1755 were almost confined to this region ; and the Revolu- tion and the last war with England produced scenes which will be touched upon in their pla- ces. BUROOYNE^S EXPEDITION. Ill 5 beyond 0- thness ? :. pre ads )vv3 any I observe hich lies . From there is )y which rmy may A short ►d Creek, igable in ss distant lence the lave con- tant mili- arried on ithin this lint was Nations Canada, effect of pproach peditions [taken by as taken retreat. 55 were Revolu- roduced Iheir pla- 1 BURGOYNE'S EXPEDITION. Gen. Bur- goyne was appointed Governor of Canada, in 1777, to succeed Sir Guy Curlton. He arrived at Quebec in May, and reached Crown Point June 20th. Gen. Phillips was sent to Ticonderoga with the British right wing; and the outposts and the fort were successively abandoned by the Americans. The news of the evacuation of this place was a most disheartening piece of intelligence to the country. During his delay, Gen. Schuyler obstructed the channel of Wood creek, removed every thing valuable from the country, and took the stores from Fort George to Fort Edward ; sending for regular troops, and calling for the mi- litia of the neighboring states, both which were supplied. Gen. Arnold and Col. Morgan joined him with a body of riflemen, and Gen. Lincoln with the New-England militia ; and he fell back to Saratoga and Stillwater. While these preparations were making for a general engagement, the battle of Bennington oc- curred. Being in want of provisions. Gen. Bur- goyne had despached Lt. Col. Baum, with his Hes- sians, to seize the public stores at Bennington. He was supported by Lt. Col. Brechman, who stopped at Baten Kill. Brig. Gt n. Stark, with the New- Hampshire troops, joined by Col. Warner, attack- ed Col. Baum at the Wallomsack river, where they were encamped, July 16th, (1777,) and in two hours forced their works, and completely de- feated them. Col. Warner began the attack on Col. Brechman, wounded him mortally, took him prisoner, and put his troops to flight. Two hundred and twenty-six of the British feii n 112 ROUTE TO THE SPRINGS. troops were killed at the battle of Bennino^ton, or rather the battle of Iloosac^ as it was fouglit in that town. Seven hundred soldiers were taken prisoners, and thirty-six oflicers. To return to the principal scene of action. Gen. Gates now received the command of the American troops, which had been greatly reinforc- ed ; and marching them from the east side of the Hudson river, opposite the Half Moon, to Still- Water, on the west siile, took a position on Bemis's Heights. BEMIS'S HEIGHTS. A ridge of elevated ground, about a quarter of a mile from the river stretching off towards the north-Vv'est, offered great avantages for the defence of the road. Gen. Gates^s Camp was about half a mile from the road on the left, and his quarters were in a house lately standing. The space between the river and the brow of the hill was crossed by a deepintrenchment defended with artillery, and al- most impracticable. The American Lines, three-quarters of a mile iong, were furnished with a breastwork of logs, (the hills being almost entirely a forest,) and the left terminated opposite the enemy's right. From the left almost to the centre, the ground is level, and was partly cleared, yet much encumbered with fallen and girdled trees. An opening, left of the centre, had a battery — thence a ravine ran to the right. The British Lines stretched from a hill opposite the American left, in a straight hne across the meadow to the Hudson river. The Northern or Champlain canal, and the BUROOYNE S EXPEDITION. 113 ngton, or ouj^ht in re taken :>f action, id of the reinforc- le of the to StilU n Bemis's elevated the river t, ofTered ^ad. mile from were in a ween the sed by a y, and al- of a mile : of logs, ) and the t. From d is level, cumbered ing, left avine ran opposite TOSS the and the coach road, now cross the ground occupied by the American right, a^id soon afterward that occupied by the British lines. The Battle Ground is on an elevated plain about two miles above General Gates's camp, and the same distance west from Smith's tavern. The most severe fighting in the first battle was at a little knoll, in a field on the south, passing two fences. Battle of Sept. 19th. In the morning, the enemy beginning to ascend the hill towards the American left, Gen. Gates sent Col. Morgan to oppose them, and the firing began about noon. The action extended, and in three hours was gen- eral, and continued without interruption till dark. The American troops engaged amounted to 3o00; the British to 3 500. The British line was formed on an eminence in a thin pine wood, having before it Freeman's farm, an oblong field, stretching from its centre towards its right, the ground in front sloping gently down to the verge of this field, which was bordered on the opposite side by a close wood. The sangui- nary scene lay in the cleared ground, between the eminence occupied by the enemy, and the wood just described. The fire of our marksmen from this wood was too deadly to be withstood by the enemy in line, and when they gave way and broke, our men, rushing from their covert, pursued them to the eminence, where, having their flanks pro- tected, they rallied, and, charging in turn, drove us back into the wood, from whence a dreadful fire would again force them to fall back ; and in this manner did the battle fluctuate, like the waves 1 1 V: \ ti i:-!^ II 114 ROUTE TO THE SPRINGS. i'i! of a stormy rfca, witli alternate advantage for four hours, without one moment's intermission. The British artillery fell into our possession at every charge, hut we could neither turn the pieces upon the enemy, nor hring them oil*; the wood prevent- ed the last, and the want of a match the first, as the linstock was invariably carried off, and the ra- pidity of the transitions did not allow us time to provide one. The slaughter of this brigade of ar- tillerists was remarkable, the ca[)tain and thirty- six men being killed or wounded out of forty- eight. It was a drawn battle, as night alone ter- minated it; the British army keeping its ground in rear of the field of action, and our corps, when they could no longer distinguish objects, retiring to their own camp. The Interval between the two Battles, from Sept. I9th till Oct. 7th, was devoted to strength- ening their fortifications, and by Gen. Gates to collecting also large reinforcements of militia. Gen. Burgoyne is said to have planned an attack on the 20th and 21 st of September, but fortunate- ly delayed until the Americans were in the best situation to oppose him. Attacks on the British picquets took place almost every night, and they were continually harassed. Battle of October 8. — Gen. Wilkinson gives the following description of this battle. " The enemy were formed across a newly culti- vated field, their grenadiers with several field pieces on the leti, bordering on a wood and a small ravine; their light infantry on the right, covered by a worm fence at the foot of the hill thickly covered with wood ; their centre compos- 115 liURCOYiNE's EXPF.DITION. 3 for four )n. The at every ^ccs upon 1 prevent- le first, as 11(1 the ra- is time to a tie of ar- lul thirty- of forty- alone ter- rceptible favorably ;alts. ici hotel, lepth of about 300 feet, and is full of gas, t ■'ry sparkling and considered both saline and chal} beate. The neighboring country was almost a perfect wilderness at the close of the Revolutionary war; for the natural military route between Canada and the United States lay through it, and the Five Na- tions of Indians were so near on the western side, and were so frequently passing over it on their war parties, that few white men were willing to encoun- ter the dangers and risks to which such a residence must necessarily be exposed. For some years, the only place where visiters could find shelter here, was in a log house, near the Old Spr; g, which was for some time the only ob- ject of notice. The Kayderosseros was raised to an unusual height by a flood in the summer of 1817, and threw its current into a new channel. Four springs were found rising side by side, all of them within a space of about twenty feet square, and of qualities entirely different. One resembled in some degree the Old Spring, but contained a surplus of carbonic acid gas, and sparkled like champaign : the next contained much glauber salts, and was somewhat like the Congress Spring at Saratoga ; the third was brine, like sea water ; and the fourth perfectly fresh. For three or four seasons they at- tracted all visiters, but they at length yielded only fresh water. There is a Reading Room and Circulating Li- hrary kept at the store of Mr. Comstock ; and a book is also to be seen, in which the names of vis- iters arriving at the principal houses are daily en- tered, for the information of others. The Lover'*s Leap, is a precipice of 60 or 70 feet, which overhangs the Kayderosseros, and a n ; i ^i, i > M 1 , ' I I': ' ' 1 7-. . 120 THE SPRINGS. 1 (/ *"t romantic and secluded little valley, at the distance of about half a mile from the springs. The road leads up the hill beyond Aldridge's, and through a dark pine grove. A half trodden path turns off at the right, and conducts to the precipice. Ballston Lake is a pretty little sheet of water about four miles distant. Saratoga Lake is much larger, more accessible, and more beautiful, and is supplied with accom- modations for fishing parlies. The distance is four and *A half miles, and five and a half from Sarato- ga Springs, It is six miles from Ballston Spa to the south end, where is the finest v. ew of it, on the way to the battle ground. Mr. Simpson's Farm in Galway, is 11 miles west from Ballston Springs, on a high ridge of land ; the farm contains 800 acres, 360 of which are cul- tivated, principally for grain and grass. He raises 40 or 50 bushels of wheat to an acre by late plough- ing, about three inches deep. He soaks his seed wheat in brine, and rolls it in lime to preserve it from insects. Other seeds he rolls in plaster. He has raised 700 bushels of potatoes to an acre. His corn is planted two feet apart one way, and two and a half the other. His fences are of stone and wood — a low stone wall, with iimber in it, to secure the parts above ground. A fence of two rails is thus made above ; the rails being of plank, about four inches wide. Of this kind of fence, he has on his farm what would measure 15 miles. The place enjoys so fine and healthy a situation, and the inn is so well kept, being one of the best in this part of the country, that it is the resort of many visiters from different quarters, who frequent- ly spend days or weeks there. The charges are I e distance The road through a irns oiFat of water iccessible, h accom- nce is four m Sarato- on Spa to it, on the niles west I of land ; :h arecul- He raises e plough- his seed reserve it plaster. an acre, vay, and of stone r in it, to e of two of plank, fence, he 5 miles, situation, the best resort of requent- rges are 1 'I: I <*'■ I J #ttii>^4fiiiiMiHi«^ ^-2 b ai ai _ if In 'll 1 1 s •1 ■3 ES SARATOGA, 121 ^ **( ^ fe y. ^ o d ^1 more moderate than at the Springs. The view is commanding, and the air fine. From an eminence west of the house, no less than 13 counties may be discovered. The church is half a mile distant, and the road from Ballston pretty good. SARATOGA SPRINGS are 7 miles from Ballston Springs, and the Rail road affords an agreeable and rapid conveyance. The old road is level and sandy. The new road passes over higher ground, and is pleasanter and harder, although somewhat longer. The railroad cars stop at the United States Uoie). The following are the principal hotels in the village. On reaching the brow of a hill which descends into the village, the street lies in full view, with all the principal houses. On the right is Congress Hall three stories high, with a row of 17 columns, rising from the ground to the eaves ; opposite is Union Hall with a row of 10 similar columns ; over which are seen the brick walls of the United States Hotel ; and still beyond, on the other side, the roof of the Pavilion. From this view the vil- lage is represented in the accompanyijjjg print, which was taken on the spot. Sl\/ €^W^j /m§^1 On reaching the foot of the hill, the Cdrigress Spring, the great attraction of the place, is seen at a short distance on the right, usually surrounded with a throng of people. Congress Hall is 196 feet long on the street, with two wings of 60 feet running back, and con- tains lodging for 150. The first floor iu front is divided in the following manner : a dining room in the middle, capable of containing tables for all the house can accommodate ; next the dancing hall, 10* r .1 'X: 122 THE SPRINGS. about 80 feet long, and south the ladies' private parlor. The price of board is $10 per week* The United States Hall is three stories high, with a colonade rising to the second story. This house is excellently well kept, and is more substan- tially built than any of the rest, which are of a light construction, fit only for the mildest weather ; but it is deficient in public rooms, in which par^cular Congress Hall so much excels. ; jt, 1 1. / V /{ i The Pavilion, is a very good house for one of its size. Those who wish to drink often of the Flat Rock water will prefer it, as that Spring is only a few steps from it in the rear. Union Hall is the resort of those who wish to avoid the continued round of balls and dances in the other principal houses. The Congress Springs which is the great source from which this place de- rives its celebrity and its show of wealth and im- portance, was discovered by Mr. Putnam. He built the first house near it for the accommodation of invalids, which was subsequently enlarged to the present Union Hall. The Congress Spring was ^(U^ confliftitpd^l^f^the neighboring brook which formefly passed over it ; but its valuable qualities being discovered, it has attracted universal atten- tion, and the benefits of its waters are annually dispensed to thousands. Mr. Silliman gives the following analysis ; half a gallon contains 320 grains of salt, 26 lime and magnesia, with a slight trace of iron. The Flat Rock Spring is near the upper end of the street, and in the rear of the Pavilion. It is a chalybeate water, and the best of the kind in the SARATOGA. 123 private eek. - es high, \ This Bubstan- f a light ler ; but irticular r one of of the ris only wish to 3S in the lace de- ind im- n. He odation d to the ng was which alities atten- nually half e and end of It is a in the I place. It is situated on the margin of the little valley, in which all the springs are found. The Round Rock Spring is worthy of a visit merely as a natural curiosity ; the water, although for a time much celebrated, and indeed the only attraction of Saratoga, having gone into disrepute, since the discovery of the sources already men- tioned. It is a feeble chalybeate with little taste and little effect. The water rises in a small rock of calcareous tufa, of a conical form, with a circu- lar hole in the middle, about five inches in diam- eter. The rock is about five feet through at the base, and has (evidently been produced by the lay- ers of lime deposited by the water. Many of the rocks in the neighborhood contain a large quantity of lime, where the carbonic acid of the water pro- bably obtains the supply which it afterward depo- sites here. The gradual accretion which is thus constantly going on is very apparent even to a hasty observer. That part of the rock which is most exposed to the dripping of water taken out in cups through the hole in the top, is always smooth and even, while other parts are rough and broken. Fractures made by visiters are sometimes found half obliterated by a recent coat of calca- reous matter formed in this manner. A horizontal rock, apparently of similar formation, extends for a considerable distance under the surface of the ground ; and indeed it might be supposed to reach to some of the springs which rise in different places along the valley above. The water formerly flowed over the top, but has for many years found its way below, through a crevice produced by a large forest tree which fell and cracked the rock. n I 'i\ tv- ill ■m 124 THE 8PRIN0S. Saratoga Lake is 5^ miles distant, in a south- easterly direction, and is frequently visited by par- ties from Ballston as well as Saratoga Springs, and has a good house on the shore. Sailing and fish- ing on the lake form the nmusements of the ex- cursion. From a hill near it as > ..u approach, the eye embraces a part of this fine sheet of water, with its sloping and verdant shores, generally divided by square fields ; with a distant view of the Green Mountains. At a considerable distance from the shore, is erected a stage, 16 by 14 feet, a little raised above the water, and capable of containing thirty people. The lake is there about seven feet deep, and the spot is excellent for fishing. Parties of ladies and gentlemen are taken ofi^ in boats, and in hot weather an awning is spread to shade them from the sun. On the opposite side of the lake is a remarkable rocky and woody hill, of a rounded form, which is connected with the shore only by a narrow neck. The deepest water is two miles below, at Drowned Meadow Cove, where it is 150 or 170 feet to the bottom. The lake extends seven miles in length, and is two in breadth. The shores are bold and varied, gently descending with a smooth slope to the mar- gin, or rising in rugged crags from the water's edge; sometimes softened and beautified by the hand of cultivation, and sometimes abandoned to all their native wildness. The Reading Room, Strangers will find news- papers from different parts of the country. A Record will also be found at the same place, REMARKS ON THE ROUTES. 125 a south- \ by par- ings, and and fish- f the ex- the eye ter, with r divided \\e Green shore, is ed above \'- people. , and the idies and weather he sun. arkable which is w neck. )rowned t to the and is varied, he mar- s edge; land of II their news- place, ,1 ) I into which the arrivals and departures of visiters are copied, once a day, from the books of the four principal liou«es. SCHUYLERSVILLE, 12 m. from Saratoga, seven miles north of the battle-ground. A stage coach passes through this place. At this village Gen. Burgoyne was forced to stop on his re.reat, on account of the flood in Fish Creek, the outlet of Saratoga Lake ; and at Fort Hardy, which then stood on its banks, he surrendered to Gen. Gates on the 17th October. The traces of his camp are still very discernible, in embankments, ditches, &c. one mile from the Fishkill, and opposite the Ba- tenkill Creek. General Burgoyne occupied the night of October 8th, and the following day, in getting to this place, although it is but 7 miles, on account of the miserable state of the roads. Here the further retreat was cut ofl^*; for the A- mericans were found in possession of the fords of the Hudson. Gen. Burgoyne therefore took his last position ; and Gen. Gates formed his camp be- hind, while Morgan took post on the west and north of the British, and Gen. Fellows with 3000 men, was stationed on the opposite side of the river. American troops were also in Fort Edward, and on the high ground towards Lake George. While remaining in this situation, the British were continually exposed to the fire of their ene- mies, as well as reduced by want of provision. Six days passed thus; when on the 17th of Octo- ber, 1777, a convention was signed, and the army, being marched to the meadow near Old Fort Har- dy, piled their arms and surrendered prisoners of war, to the number of 5752 effective, with 528 sick and wounded. This meadow is in sight from the inn. I » I 'I i iff I 126 THE SPRINGS. The house of Gen, Schuyler stood on the spot now occupied by that of his grandson. It wag burnt by Burgoync on liis retreat, together with his mills ; notwithstanding which, the British ofli- cers were afterwards received at his house in Al- bany, and treated with great kindness. Remarks on the Routes. North. — Three great routes from the Springs towards the north may be particularized, although they run almost side by side, and all unite on ar- riving at Lake Champlain. 1st, The fashionable route, to Caldwell, on Lake George. 2d, The Northern, or Champlain Canal. 3d, The road to Whitehall, the direct route on the way to Mon- treal. The first of these is usually travelled by stran- gcrs of taste and leisure, as it conducts directly to the fine scenery of Lake George, and the bat- tle-grounds in its vicinity ; and passes near se- veral other spots of high interest for their histori- cal associations. It is with a particular view to this route, that the places soon to be mentioned will be arranged and described. Even if a jour- ney to Montreal is intended, it can hardly be too urgently pressed upon the stranger to devote a leisure day or two to Lake George on his way, as he will find himself most amply rewarded, and can join the great route with facility at Tieon- deroga. The second route, by the Northern Canal, may be met near the battle-ground at Bemis's Heights. In fine weather gentlemen may travel for u few miles in the common freight boats. The third route is the road to Whitehall, which THE SPRINGS. 127 1 the spot It wag !ther witli ritish ofli- use in Al- 3 Springs , although ite on ar- shionable 2d, The le road to to Mon- by stran- i directly d the bat- near se- ir histori- view to lentioned a jour- ly be too devote a way, as ded, and t Ticon- nal, may Heights. )r u few 11, which I is furnished with public carriages from the Springs during the warm sciiHon, anil, like the canal, pass- es near some of the interesting places to be men- tioned hereafter. East, — Travellers wishing to go to any part of the country in this direction, may take their choice of several routes. Lines of stage coaches run to Connecticut river from Iturlington, Middlebury, Castle^on, and Granville, as well as from Troy and Albany, in various directions — to Hanover, Brattleborough, Greenfield, Northampton, Spring- field, Hartford; and there subdividing into numer- ous ramifications, oflfer the means of conveyance to every part of New-England. To meet most of these routes, it will be neces- sary to proceed to some point north or south of the Springs, for which public carriages are esta- blished in several directions from Saratoga and Ballston. Arrangements may be made at the bar of the house where the stranger is lodged. Two lines of coaches run along the course of Hudson River and Wood creek, one on each side; and the eastern one carries the mail through Castleton, Middlebury, Burlington, &c. along the course of Lake Champlain, though generally at too great a distance to command a view of it. The country there is very fine, the villages beautiful, and the surface frequently mountainous. The most interesting' route that can be chosen by a man of taste, from the Springs to Boston, is through Vermont to the White Mountains, and Winnipiseogee Lake in New-Hamj)shire. He may take what road he pleases to Connecticut River. t Si M! I . ill 51 c^ M 128 WILTON. EXCURSION TO LAKE GEORGE, 27 miles. This is by far tiie most delightful, excursion which can be made from the Springs in any direc- tion, as it abounds with some of the finest scenery in the United States, and in numerous sites and objects intimately connected with the history ol the country. From the time of the earliest wars between the British colonies and the French in Canada, to that of 1755, the tract over which the upper part of our route lies was the high road of war. It was traversed by many a hostile expedition, in which the splendor and power of European arms min- gled with the fierce tactics of savage warriors : the r'jiins of fortresses are still to be traced in se- veral places, and tradition points to many a spot that has been sprinkled with blood. During the Revolution, also, some of the important events in our history, took place in that neighborhood. The Journey to Montreal may be o ade hy the vjay of Lake George ; and this route the book will pursue, to Montreal and Quebec, whither the reader, it is hoped, will accompany it. FROM Saratoga to Glenn's Falls, 18 miles. Wilton, 7 miles, Glenn'' s Falls, 1 1 miles. — Half a mile before reaching Glenn's Falls, tht road en- ters a rich plain, probably once overflown by the river, which is now discovered on the left, divi- ding it in its course, while the village appears in front, with a handsome church spire, and a num- ber of neat white houses, all backed by the moun- tains, which here stretch off towards the north. French Mountain is the most prominent eminence of which more anon. A more distant range is likewise seen further to the right. c t 1! S a a ti ol St 01 tc b( lY ol GLENN S FALLS. 129 17 miles, excursion ■iny ilirec- st scenery sites and history ot tween the da, to that er part of r. It was in which irms min- warriors : iced in se- any a spot )uring the t events in hood. de by the the book hither the 18 miles, es. — Half road en- wn by the left, divi- p pears in id a num- he moun- he north, eminence range is f •Glenn^s Falls,— From the bridge, the falls in the Hudson are in full view below. The river here makes a sudden descent of 37 feet over a rock of dark blue limestone, which has been worn into so many forms as to break up the cur- rent in a very singular manner. The projection of two large masses of rock divides the water into three sheets (except when it is much swollen by floods.) Of these, the northern channel is much the largest, and the other two unite and pass through a deep channel, about 15 feet wide. A man jumped off the bridge here twice, a few years ago, yet escaped without serious injury. The most water passes through t!ie otiier channel.* A dam is thrown across just above the falls, which supplies a Cotton Manufactory of Stone with water, as well as several mills. On the north side of the river a feeder to the Champlain canal, furnishes water for several mills, and an ar- tificial cascade. The great Hat rock which supports the bridge, projects beyond it, and affords s[ ace for a small garden on its highest part, although most of it is overflown in high floods. Like the other rocky strata there, it has a gentle dip towards the south, and a perpendicular fracture running nearly north and south. *Sanflif ffi'I, 3 miles eastxonrd. — This viilage is pleasantly situated at the next fall in the river below. The cascii(ic is less remarkable as an object of curiosity anck, a few nd Sandy :ed in the re. Luzerne , French to Lake igh hills Vermont a small land near d struck [ward to rh which md ; and after about half an hour's ride, a little circular pond is discovered on the east side, and close by the road. It is generally almost concealed with water plants. This was near the place of action between Col- onel Williams and General Dieskau. The latter had extended his troops across the path, and ad- vanced his wings some distance in front, the left wing occupying the rising ground on the west side of the road near this place, and is said to have been the principal scene of action. A singular rock near by is pointed out by iradition as the mark of Col. Williams's grave. I'lis, however, is considered very doubtful ; by ollters, it is said that he ascended the rock to reconnoitre, and was shot from its summit. The little pond above mentioned was the place where most of the dead were thrown, and it bears the name of Bloody Pond to this day. It is pro- bably much smaller than formerly. In 1825 the skeleton of a man was dug up from a depth of one and a half feet, near the pond, with a marble pipe, and some silver-eyed buttons bearing the royal stamp. This pond is nearly circular, and is covered, in its season, with the Pond Lily (Nymphea Alba,) which expands its flowers on the surface of the water. About a quarter of a mile beyond this place, is a fine view of LAKE GEORGE. Coming to the brow of a high hill, the prospect opens, and the lake appears, enclosed by moun- tains, many of which, at this distance, are of a deep blue. The side of French Mountain is near iiil m m i r ;!' 'Mi 'Ml (» , 1 iH) 1 Hi i IK 1 m 1 H m 1 ;' ;| 132 LAKE a£OROE. at hand on the cast, covered with thick trees to the summit ; while the smoothness of the lake, the beauty of its nearest shore, with the neat white buildings of Caldwell, communicate to the scene a degree of beauty and seclusion, which can hardly be found in any other spot. Directly at the south end of Lake George, are the remains of Forts George and William Henry, famous in the history of the French war; and on the site of the former was General Johnson's camp, when he was attack- ed by Dieskau. The particulars of the action will be given hereafter. Caldwell. Here the visiter will stop to take a view of this charming lake, and hence he may make excursions across its beautiful waters. The village stands at the south end of the lake, com- manding a fine view of the mountains by which it is almost enclosed. The inn overlooks the lake for several miles. A more delightful place can hardly be found in the United States, for the tem- porary residence of one who takes delight in scenery of this description, and loves to recur to deeds long past, important in their results even to the present day. Lake George is 34 miles long, and its greatest breadth 4. At the south end it is only about one mile broad. The greatest depth is sixty fathoms. The water is remarkable for its purity — a fish or a stone may be seen at the depth of 20 or 30 feet. It is undoubtedly supplied by springs from below, as the water is coldest near the bottom. It con- tains trout, bass, and perch. There are deer in the neighboring forest. The outlet which leads to Lake Champlain contains three large falls and rapids. The lake never rises more than two feet. LAKE GEORGE. 133 trees to the lake, leat white the scene ;an hardly the south of Forts he history he former ^as attack- he action )p to take e he may ers. The ake, com- y which it s the lake place can r the tem- lelight in I recur to ts even to |s greatest ibout one fathoms, a fish or .r 30 feet. |m below, It con- deer in ch leads falls and Itwo feet. The three best points of view are at Fort Ge<»rge, a place north of Shelvinor Rock, 14 miles, and another at Sabbath Day Point, 21 miles from the head of the lake. The last view is taken south- ward, the other two northward. This beautiful basin, with its pure crystal water, is bounded by two ranges of mountains, which, in some places rising with a bold and hasty ascent from the water, and in others descending with a graceful sweep from a great height to a broad and level margin, furnish it with a charming variety of scenery, which every change of weather, as well as every change of position, presents in new and countless beauties. The intermixture of cul- tivation with the wild P'^enes of nature is extremely agreeable ; and the undulating surface of the well- tilled farm is often contrasted with the deep shade of the native forest, and the naked, weather-beaten cliffs, where no vegetation can dwell. The situation of the hotel is delightful, surpass- ing that of almost every other to be found in this part of the country, A green and handsome slope descends about 200 yards to the very margin, where there is no obstruction but a few trees and scattering buildings. There is the wharf, at which the steamboat receives and lands her passengers, often adding much variety to the place by an addi- tion of company. The discharge of the signal gun makes fine echoes among the mountains in a clear night. Excursions on the Lake, Fishing, &c. Boats are kept at the wharf to convey passengers to any part of the neighboring shores and islands. Fine perch, or black bass, (Perca Franklinia,) are 11* \1\ 4:' i\ !f an 134 EXCURSION TO LAKE GEORGE. caught in abundance almost every where; and trout, at the mouth of a small stream near the south end. Fishing rods and tackle may be ob- tained at the hotel ; and a variety of other fish are to be found. Diamond Island is a few miles down the lake, and crystals of quartz, are found in a loose rock by digging a little under the surface. They are found in equal numbers in several of the other islands. Tea Island, about 2 miles down the lake, is another favorite retreat. The little bay in which the boats land is remarkably retired and beautiful. Long Island contains about 100 acre?, and has been inhabited and cultivated. Besides these, there are many other islands on the neighboring parts of the lake ; and those who are fond of such excursions would be highly delighted with devo- ting several days to visit them. The finest clus- ter is in the Narrows, about 12 miles distant. West of the village is a remarkable conical em- inence, called Rattlesnakes^ Cobble, or Prospect Hill. This, as well as the mountains beyond it, is the habitation of bears and deer, and much in- fested with rattlesnakes. The view from the top is very fine. The French Approaches, The village of Cald- well is of recent date. In the French war, during the seige of Fort William Henry, the ground which it now occupies was crossed by the trench- es and batteries with which Montcalm finally suc- ceeded in forcing the capitulation of that little fortress. He landed with his army in the little cove just BATTLE OF LAKE DEORGE. 136 lere; and I near the ly be ob- ir fish are the lake, oose rock riiey are the other 5 lake, is r in vvhich beautiful. s, and has Ics these, iighboring nd of such ,vith devo- nest clus- $tant. nical em- Prospect jeyond it, nuich in- n the top of Cald- r, during 3 ground e trench- lally suc- lat little Jove just ) behind the new stone building, a few steps north of the hotel. He erected his battery near the ehore, and ran his first trench across the street into the fields in front of the hotel. The remains may still be traced, as well as the marks of a small mortar battery, near the bars of a fence leading to a small house. Another line runs to the bank of the lake, on this side of the brook, where was also a battery ; and another borders the swamp to the right, and another turns southward along the high ground. Behind this, in a pine wood, are the graves of about 1000 French soldiers, whodiedin the fort after its caj)ture. Battle of Lake George. In 1755, the year after the commencement of the French War, 5000 men were sent out from France to Quebec, for the purpose of taking Oswego Fort, on the shore of Lake Ontario. Gen. Johnson, (afterward Sir William,) march- ed to the south end of Lake George with a con- siderable number ol men, joined by the famous Capt. Ilendrick, with many Indians of the Five Nations, intending to take Fort Frederick, now Crown Point. Gen. Dieskau was sent to oppose hi:n. At Fort Frederick, or Crown Point, he re- mained some time, and then went up the South Bay, where, learning the situation of Fort Lyman (now Fort Edward,) he wished to attack it and cut off the retreat of Gen. Johnson. The Indians and Canadians, however, were in dread of the cannon with which it was supposed to be defended, and he was o ige( agaii met 1200 men under Col. Ephraim Williams, them at Rocky Brook, drawn up in a semicircle, t? . ! E ■' M til T.: vi \M EXCURSION TO lAKE GEORGE. I ill into which the English entered before they knew it. The English stood their ground valiantly; but Col. Williams and Hendrick being both shot down, together with many others, they were ob- liged to begin their retreat, which was conducted by Col. Wliiting with the greatest coolness and success. The centre of the English army was posted on the hill where the ruins of Fort George now are; and the French were (liscovcrcd by them at half past 11. Dieskau halted at the sight of his ene- mies, probably entertaining some mistaken idea of the streiiglh of their position, and gave them time to :> :o n from their panic. The ground on both sidt, oi ih ^ English camp was marshy and covered with trees, and Dieskau sent his Indians out on the right flank and the Canadians on the left, to surround them. Col. Pomeroy, however, soon put the former to flight with a few cannon shots. Dieskau then brought up his troop^: in front, and made them fire by platoons, but with very little eflect. Gen. Johnson was slightly wounded in the thigh, and had to walk back to his tent, leaving the command with Gen. Lyman. He directed the defence for five hours, aided by Capt, Eyre's artillery; when the French turned upon the English right, which consisted of Rug- gles's, Pomeroy's, and Tittecomb's regiments, and extended from the road to where Fort William Henry was afterward built. Here they fought an hour, but the English and Indians charging them, they took to flight and many were killed. Gen. Dieskau himself was foynd leaning against a etump wounded — a soldier approaching saw him I ey knew aliuntly ; foth shot were ob- 3nducted less and )Osted on lovv are ; u at half his ene- ken idea ive them round on i'shy and 3 Indians J on the [lowever, caunon roopiL in Jilt with slightly ck to his Lyman, ided by turned of Rug- nts, and William |)Ught an g them, Gen. ainst a w him MASSACRE AT FORT WILLIAM HENRY. 137 put his hand to his waist, to take out his watch, which he intended to offer to him, and supposing he was drawing a pistol, shot him through the thigh. He was carried to the fort by eight men in a blanket, and it is said deterred Johnson from ordering a pursuit, by saying he had a strong force near at hand. Gen. Lyman urged to follow up their victory ; but that was probably a sufficient reason for its being refused by a superior officer, who did not even mention the name of Gen. Ly- man in his account of the battle ! — Johnson was made a Baronet, and Lyman lingered out a few years in poverty and disappointment, and died without receiving even the notice of the British government. The English are said to have losl ily 216 in killed and 96 wounded. Gen. Dicskau estimated his own loss at 1000 — the English called it much less. The principal were a major-general, and M. de St. Pierre, the commande of the Indians. The French lost their baggage during the action, two miles in their rear, it being attacked by Cap- tains Folsom and M'Ginnies with about 100 New- York troops; who then lay in wait for the re- treating French, and killed great numbers of them. Gen. Johnson might have taken Crown Point ; but he delayed it so long, that the French advan- ced to Ticonderoga and there fortified themselves securely. The Capture and Massacre of Fort Wil- liam Henry. So different was the state of the country sixty years ago, and so much in its infan- cy was the art of war in these wild regions, that ft small work of earth thrown up on this site, and ■ y [T 138 EXCURSION TO LAKE GEORGE. called Fort William ITcnry, was regarded as af fortress of conslderabh^ strength and consequence.. In 17.57, the Earl of Loudon, British Comman- der-in-Chief in America, made an unsuccessful at- tempt by sea against Louisburg; and before his rsturn to New-York in Aujrust, the French from Ticonderoga, under the Marquis de Montcalm,, 'had made three attacks on Foit William Henry. On the 1st of August they set out again, and land- ed at Frenchman's Point. On the evening of the 2d, they crossed to the west side of Lake George,, within two miles of the Fort, and the next morn- ing sent in their summons. Col. Munroe defend- ed himself resolutely for six days, hoping relief from Gen. Webb and his 6000 men at Fort Ed- ward ; but having waited in vain, and burst ten of* his largest cannon, he was obliged to surrender,, and marched out with the honors of war and an assurance of being protected from the Indians ia Montcalm's army. He had gone but a little way, however, when- the savages fell upon his troops and butchered, about 1500, men, women, and children. Gen. Webb's conduct was most inhuman. The provincial troops were kept under arms for one whole day after the news of the seige arrived at Fort Edward, and Sir William Johnson was very desirous to march with them to its relief; but Webb ordered them back to their quarters, and sent a messenger to Col. Monroe advising him ta surrender. Attack on Fort Ticonderoga, The south end of Lake George was the scene of a splendid embarkation on the 4th of July of the following ATTACK ON TICONDEROOA. 139 dcd as a sequence. Comman- cessful at- efore his inch from lontcalm,. n Henry, and land- ing of the e George,, ext morn- oe defcnd- ling relief Fort Ed- urst ten of surrender,, ar and an Indians in i^er, when butchered. lan. The for one irrived at was \ery lelief; but fters, and ig him ta 'he south splendid following year [1758,] wlicn 10,000 provincial troops, and 6 or 7000 regulars assembled at this place to pro- ceed against Ticondcroga.* 1035 boats were .drawn up to the shore one clear delightful summer morning, and were speedily filled with this pow- ;«rful army, excepting only a small body left with the baggage. Success was coiilidciitly expected, and the appearance of the train was more like that of a triumphant return from war. The boats were decor^'ed with gaudy streamers, and the oars mo- ved to martial music. The traveller will follow their route in the steamboat, for which see below. They landed at the north end of the lake on the following morning, and were ordered to march on in four columns. The obstructions of the forest however soon broke their ranks ; when Lord Howe, with his centre column, falling in with the enemy's advance guard, who were on their retreat and bewildered, was attacked with a ijsudden war whoop and immediately killed. The 'provincials were accustomed to the woods, diove back their enemies, killing about 300, and taking 148 prisoners, and returned to the landing. In the morning, Col. Bradstreet took possession of the mill at the great falls on the river, and the army were soon brought up to the French lines, which were thrown up across tlie isthmus and not finished. This intrenchment is still to be seen in tolerable preservation. It had two redoubts and a deep abattis, and is said to have been 8 or 9 feet high, though that seems improbable. The attack * Lord Howe, who accompanied this expedition, was a young- noble- man of amiable disposition and tlio most prepossessing' manners, and was almost idolized by the army, as well as admired and loved by the country. 140 EXCURSION TO LAKE C^OROE. was vigorous, and the defence obstinate. The battle continued four hours, durinj^ wfiich the Eng" lish were repulsed three times. The English loss, in all, was 1944, principally regulars ; the Frencb very trilling, although they are said not to have imagined the defence possible. Their force is differently stated from 1200 to OOUO. Notwith- standing his superiority of force, Abercrombie shamefully ordered a retreat ; and thus terminated the operations of the year, VOYAOE DOWN LaKE GeORGE. Leaving Caldwell, and passing Mr. Caldwell's house, at a quarter of a mile, the steamboat passes Tea Island, Diamond, Long, and other islands, par- ticularly the Two Sisters ; and then the lake be- comes wider, and the surface more uninterrupted, the course of the boat being directly towards a re- markable eminence, with a double summit, called Tongue Mountain. That which partly shuts it in from this direction on the right, is Shelving Rock \ and Black Mountain shows its rounded summit be- yond it, a little further to the right. This last is supposed to be about 2200 feet high, and the high- est mountain on the lake. Twelve Mile Island appears to be at the foot of Tongue Mountain, and isscen just ahead for a great distance after leaving Caldwell. It is of a singular- ly rounded form, covered with trees, with the ut- most regularity, and protected from the washing of the waves by a range of large stones along the shore, so well disposed as to seem like a work of art. A rich and cultivated slope is seen on the west- ern shore, before reaching Tongue Mountain. nate. The ch the Eng- nglish loss, the Frencb lot to have ir force is Notwith- bercrornbie terminated Caldweirs boat passes ihinds, par- e lake be- Ucrrupted, ivards a re- mit, called shuts it in mg Rock ; summit be- Uiis last is d the high- the foot of for a great a singular- ith the ut- kvashing of along the a work of the west- ntain. 11 im * LAKE (JEOIUIK. 141 1^ r^ 3- The Narrows. The lake is very much con- tracted, where it passes between the mountains just mentioned, and the surface is for several miles broken by innumerable islands. These are of va- rious sizes, but generally very small, and of little elevation. A few of them arc named, as Green, Bas9, Lone-tree islands. Some are covered with trees, others with shrubs, »ome show little lawns or spots of grass, heaps of barren rocks, or gently sloping shores ; and most of them are ornantented with graceful piney, hemlocks, and other tall trees, collected in groups, or standing alone, arul dispos- ed with most charming variety. Sometimes an island will be observed just large enough to sup- port a few fine trees, or perhaps a single one, while the next may appear like a solid mass of bushes ?ind wild (lowers ; near at hand, perhaps, is a third, with a dark grove of pines, and a decaying old trunk in front of it; and thus, through every in- terval between the islands as you })ass along, an- other and another labyrinth is opened to view, among little isolated spots of ground, divided by narrow channcds, from which it seems impossible for a person who should have entered them, ever to find his way out. Some of the islands look al- most like ships with their masts ; and many have an air of lightness as if they were sailing upon the lake. *' Some small, just a nest for the heron that springs *' From the long grass, and flashes the dew from his wings ; " Some bearing one pine tree, the stately and fair, " Alone, like a column aloft in the air: " Wliile others have shrubs and sweet plants, that extend " Their boughs to the stream o'er whose mir.or they bend ; " The lilly, that; queen-like, uprears to the sun, 12 \l 142 EXCURSION TO LAKE tiKOR(.F, " Tlio loveliest faco thatlluf li^lit is upon ; " Wliilo bcsido stands tlio cyj)ross that darkcn.s the wave, " With a ibiiugo ineuiit only to sliadowthc grave." Eng. Mag. After passing the Narrows, tlic lake widens a- ji^ain, and the retrospect is, for several miles, thr«)u«;h that j)assao^e, with Tongue Mountain on the west, and Hhick Mountain opposite, the Luzerne range appearing at a great distance between them. The mountains in view have generally rounded summits ; but the sides are in many places broken by precipitous ledges. They are inhabited by wolves, deer, rattlesnakes, &c. Sahhath Day Point. — Tiiis is a low neck of land, stretching into the lake from the Western shore, and containing the little village of Hague. That on the opposite shore is Putnam. On Sabbath Day Point, Lord Amherst, with his numerous host, stopped for refreshment upon the morning of the Sabbath, and gave this beautiful point the name by which it is now known ; it is a charming spot, and susceptible of the greatest em- bellishment. HoGERs' Rock and Anthony's Nose. These are two mountains at which the lake again contracts itself to pass between them. The shores of the lake still continue elevated, and but a few culti\ ated farms are distinguishable here and there. Antho- ny's Nose presents a precipice, on the eastern shore, as we enter the strait ; and the firing of a gun produces a fine echo. Rogcr''s Ruck or Roger^s /SlidCi is a still more formidable precipice, on the other hand, a little further on. The last retros- pect up the lake is still very line, even from this 1 i f LAKE GroRuE. 143 the wave, M o Eng, Mag. D widens a- cral tiiiles, lUainon the lie Luzerne kveeii them. \y rounded ces broken habited by pck of land, Item shore, ^uc. Tliat st, with his t upon the s beautiful wn ; it is a reatcstcm- E. These n contracts jres of the culti\ated ». Antho- tern shore, ; of a gun r Roger'* s ice, on the ist retros- from this I f i I point — niack Mountain being yet Cicurly to be seen. Jiogcrs^ Slide has its name frona Capt. Rogers, a partisan oHicer, who distinguished hims(df in the French war, by his bohhiess, activity, and success. lie ronnnanded nn expedition wliich left Crown Point in the year 175G, against the ('anadian fron- tiers, and cut ofl' the Indian village of St. Franris, afterward returningwith the severest hardships, by the way of Connecticut River. Tradition says, that hv^ was, at another time, closely |)ursued by a parly of Indians, and forced to retreat to the verge of this mountain. Finding no other way to escape, he descended half down by the ravine which opens towards the south, and then by a sud- den turn came to the east side, where? is a preci- pice about two hundred feet high of smooth rock, and nearly perpendicular, down which he slipped upon his snow shoes to the lake, escaping upon the ice. The water is deep at the bottom, and fine trout are caught there with a long line. The lake here assumes the appearance of a nar- row pond for three or four miles, and seems closed at both ends. The ground is still elevated on both sides, but hills have succeeded to mountains, and some of these are at length overtopped by Black Mountain. The lake at length diminishes to a very narrow stream, and the bottom becomes gradually covered with weeds. Lord Howe^s Landing is just behind an island of three acres, on the left-hand at the entrance of the creek. Here is the spot where the unfortu- nate expedition of Abercrombie effected their land- ing, and on the island they established their hos- pital, on their way to the attack of Ticonderoga. I f 141 ROUTE TO CANADA. I "i! The stcam?)oat passes on Koinc distance; iioyond this placo, and lands !irr pasNon^t rs oii the oth(^r side, \vluM*(% at licr r(*«ridar v<») .io\ m, 'i^v'infrea Rn- found in \vaitine rarefiil to in(iuirc the hoi;r when it passes, and rejriilalethcMr time aceordinjjriy. Tironderon^a has l)ecom<' one? of the sto])ping phi- ces, which will prove a ^rvixi conveniei ce to the numerous travellers attracted to this interesting spot. Abercrombic'sarmy pass(ul for some part of the way along the route we travel. Passing the Up- per Fal!s, which are the liighest, he forded the creek above the second. At the Falls near the bridge which we cross, just above the sawmills, was a stone blockhouse ; and there was a redoubt on the north side of the stream near the bridge, wliere, as in several other places, th< re was some fighting to carry the French outposts. At the Upper Falls are several valuable sawmills and forges, and the scenery is higlily picturesque. The Fortukss of Ticom>k«ioga. This famous old fortress, or rather its remains, a^c distinctly seen >Vom Lake Champlain, though, from the direction ^y which we approach it, they ar'^ discovered only at a short distance. An ele- vated piece of land, gently sloping towards the south, and ending abruptly over a bend of the lake, appears, partially covered with trees, and crowned near its extremity with a cluster of broken walls and chimneys. The Old French Lines where General Aber- istnnco beyond rs Oil tlic (>th(ir J Ticriuloroga, iinbout on Lake Kjiiirc the hour me arcordinjrly. le stoj)j)ing phi- (Miiei ce to the this interesting ome part of the *assing the lip- he forded the Falls near the c the sawnjills, e was a redoubt i'2r the bridge, lit re was some sts. luable sawmills y picturesque. IK HOG A. litT its remains, Tiplain, though, proach it, they ance. An ele- g towards the nd of the lake, Is, and crowned If broken walls I General Aber- r' 'i TICONDEROOA. 145 # crombie was defeated in 1758, are the only part of the fortification which was ever the scene of a bat- tle. Tliey commenced on the east side, at a bat- tery of heavy cannon on the shore, about a quarter of a mile south of the ferry. The remains of the breastwork can yet be seen. The lines were drawn in a zig-zag ; first stretching off to the right, along the side of marshy ground to a cluster of bushes where was a battery; and then to the left to the verge of a wood, where was another, then across the ridge of land at its highest elevation, over to the brow of a steep bnnk looking towards the out- let of Lake Geortre. The woods that now so much interrupt the sight, have grown since the evacua- tion of the fortress, after the revolutionary war. There is a fine spring of water near the west- ern part of the French lines, where a bloody en- gagement occurred between two hostile parties during the battle. Bodies of men have been dug up hereabouts within a few years, and shot were formerly very frequently found in old timber. Mount Hope is a hill about a mile north from this p>lace. It was occupied by Gen. Burgoyne's British line, which formed the right wing on his approach to Ticonderoga, on the 2d of June, 1777. In proceeding from the French lines south to- wards the fortress, by a gentle descent, the surface of the ground appears to have been in some pla- ces smoothed in former times by the plough, and by the removal and cutting away of rocks, to ren- der it convenient for the evolutions of troops, and the use of artillery. We pass ah . the remains of several distinct lines of small redoubts, placed at equal distances, and ranged in the form of a quin- cunx. 12* i: 146 nOUTK TO CAXADA. i"^i ... ;^i Tliore arc two old intrenchments, 270 and 150 yards from the fortress; and then comes the edge of the outer ditch or counterscarp, where was a row of palisadoes. Five steps more bring you to the walled side of the ditch, which is still eight feet deep in some places, and therefore impassable ex- cept where it has been partly filled up. Its breadth is generally about 8 or 9 yards, and the wall of the fortress on the other side in some places 20 or 25 feet high. The fortress is of an angular form, and embra- ces a large tract of ground, being divided into parts by deep ditches, which were defended by cannon and musketry, and added very much to the secu- rity of the place. The communication between these different parts was kept up by stone stair- cases, placed in convenient positions of the angles, all so calculated as to make the descent into the ditches and the ascent circuitous and intricate, and open to the cannon and small arms. A glance at some of those that remain will show the plan. The walls were originally much higher than at present, being raised by superstructures of logs filled in with earth, to such a height as to protect the barracks. The Barracks formed an oblong, and the walls still remain of all except those on the eastern side. The parade, which they include, appears to have been formerly carefully smoothed. This area is about 521 yards long, and 8 in breadth. The bar- racks, &,c., are built of the rough blue limestone, of the neighboring rocks, two stories high; and these, with the chimneys, several of which are standing, are the principal objects seen from a dis- ¥ ' i TICONDEROOA. 147 and 150 the edge ;rc was a ng you to 3ight feet isable ex- s breadth all of the •20 or 25 d embra- into parts y cannon the secu- between ne stair- le angles, into the tcate, and lance at le plan, than at of logs ) protect tance. By the southern entrance, Ethan Allen entered with his 83 raw soldiers, when he surpri- sed the fortress on the ]8th May, 1775; and on reaching the court yard and calling on the com- mander to surrender, the British ofiicer, Capt. De- place, made his appearance at a window and sub- mitted, delivering up 3 oilicers and 44 rank and file. In consequence of this coup de main, this important place was in the hands of the Ameri- cans until the arrival of Burgoyne, in 1777. The battlements of Ticonderoga first bore the flag of independence. This circumstance should of itself render this ruin, so fine in other associa- tions, interesting to the traveller. At each corner was a bastion or a demi-bastion; and under that in the nonh-eastern one is a sub- terranean apnrlmcnt, the access to which is through a small enfra?ire near that corner o( the court yard. It communicates with two magazines at the further end : that on the left, which is the larger, being 19 or 20 feet long. The room is also arched, measures about 35 feet in length, 21 in breadth, and 10 or 11 in height, and like the magazines was bomb proof. The cellars south of this, which belonged to the demolished buildings, and are almost filled up, have a room or two with fireplaces still distinguishable. The Grenadiers' Battery. This important outwork is situated on a rocky point towards the east from the main fortress. They were connec- ted by a covered way, the traces of which are distinctly visible. It was surrounded by a wall faced with stone, with five sides, one of which measures about 180 feet; but that towards the i us ROUTE TO CANADA. f iH lake has been undermined by time, and slipped down the bank. The remaining parts are nearly entire, and about 10 feet high. Still in advance of the Grenadiers' Battery is a amall work of earth, which might have contained five or six guns; while in front of it, and on the til to extreme point, two t have been placed between the rocks, to fire down upon the water, about 40 feet below. A little further east, and under the bank, is an old s'one house, formerly a store belonging to the fort, :mI'\ now occupied by the tenant of Mr. Pel!, the pro- prietor of the whole peninsula of Ticonderoga. On a spot formerly occu[)ie(l as the King^s Gar- den, Mr. P. has a fine garden, abounding in the choicest fruits import;*(l from Kurop?, and trans- ported from the celebrated nurseries of Long Isl- and. If it is the intention of the traveller to cross the lake, to the neighboring Vermont shore, where are still some slight remains of Burgoyne's in- trenchments, he will be much pleased with a walk across the meadows to the upper ferry, a distance of about three-quarters of a mile. Between the Grenadiers' Battery and the for- tress, the shore retains traces of many little ter- races, breastworks, and buildings, such as were probably workshops, barracks, stores, &,c. The great mountain, which rises dark and ab- ruptly from the opposite shore, is Mount Defiance, about BOO feet high, on the summit of which Gen. Burgoyne's troops showed themselves on the morning of July 4th, 1777, with a battery of heavy cannon, which they had drawn up along the ridge by night, and on the W MOUNT INDEPENDENCE. 149 d slipped lire nearly ittery is a contained nd on the appear to fire down A little i old s*one 3 fort, hiV\ I!, the pro- londeroga. ng^s Gar' inir in the and trans- Long Isl- ler to cross ore, where oyne's in- ith a walk a distance 1 the for- litlle ter- as were and ab- on the )S showed hh, ^777, they had on the firing of a few shots by the British upon a vessel in the lake, which proved the range of their guns, the Americans made pre])arations to evacuate the place, and ellectcd their retreat to the opposite shore during the night. The ascent of Mount Defiance is laborious, but the view is extremely fine from its summit. There are the remains of Burgoync's battery, with holes drilled in the rocks for blasting, and the marks of a large blockhouse. Mount Independence is a hill of comparatively small elevation cast of Mount Defiance, and sep- arated from it by tlie lake, which avls there redu- ced its size to that of a small rive^'. On a bank, just above the water, are the remains of a zig-za^^' battery for about 40 or 50 guns, running across a little cornfield behind a house, and making five or six angles. The Horse-shoe Battery is traceable on an elevation about a quarter of a mile in the rear. A bridge once connected Ticonderoga with Mount Defiance, the buttresses of which are re- maining, to the great annoyance of the navigators of the lake; the steamboat passes to the south of them. On the west shore (near the stone store- house,) Arnold, when pursued by the British, cau- sed his flotilla to be run on shore. These hulks remain almost as sound as when first stranded. A forty-two pounder is said to have ranged from the Horseshoe over this channel (now marked by a buoy) and the fortress. After the Revolutionary war about 500 cannon were lying about tht fortress, lines, &c. many of them as left by the English with their trunnions Hnockied ofl^. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 ^ 6" — ► V <^ 7i rf- ^^*:>^ Photographic Sciences Corporaition 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 V ^^ ^^ :\ \ % V o^ i^ <6 150 ROUTE TO CANADA ■ 4 [9 ,* ill The mountainous region on the west side of the hike abounds with deer, and considerable numbers are killed every season. The JPassage from Ticonderoga down Lake Champlain is very pleasant, abounding, the greater part of the way to Canada, with fine natural scenes. The improvements produced in the country en- closing Lake Champlain, by the establishment of steamboats and the opening of the Northern Ca- nal, have been very great. The produce former- ly sent southward was necessarily subject to heavy expenses of transportation ; while the merchan- dise brought in return was liable to delay, uncer- tainty, injuries by land carriage, and exposure to the weather and to pilferers, which are obviated, and these circumstances, it is well known, produce powerful effects. The towns on the lake, five or six years ago, were ill supplied with merchandise, which is now found in abundance and cheap. Some of them have more than doubled their size since 1822, and numerous villages have sprung up into activity and thrift from almost nothing. New roads have also been made into the interior, and mills have been erected on the tributary streams for cutting up the supplies of valiable timber in the forests. In the two townships of Crown Point anJ Moriah, there are about 60 lumber mills, which will be able to furnish a million of pieces of timber. They contain also vast beds of iron ore, for which forges and furnaces have been erected. The iron region lies between the lake und the north-eastern branch of the Hudson, ivhich heads 6 miles west of it. At Swanton, Vt., ( LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 151 )f the [ibers Lake irt of •y en- ent of •n Ca- rmer- heavy •chan- iincer- ure to dated, roduce five or ndise, heap, r size ngup New f and reams ber in irown mills, ieces [f iron been lake dson, ,Vt., I are quarries of dove-colored and black marble, where 300 saws are kept at work. It is carried to New-York in conriidcrable quantities. Great numbers of small schooners navigate the waters of Lake Champlain, and within a few years numerous canal boats, some of them fitted with masts for schooners for sailing. Annesley's mode of building vessels has been adopted here to some extent, in which timbers are discarded, and hulls formed of inch boards running in seve- ral thicknesses, and in cross directions. Only about 20 vessels sailed on this lake before the canal was opened to the Hudson. Five Mile Point was the landing place of Gen. Burgoyne's expedition, as already mentioned^ Mountains appear in the uest and north-west, with occasional intervals all the way up to Crown Point; while in the north is a lofty and imposing range, with two or three pe ikj? almost buld from the height of their elevation. Summits multiply as we proceed, and distant mountains arise also in the north-east; while Mount Defiance and other eminences towards the south bound the view in that direction. There are scattering farms and houses on both shores. There are many fish caught in some parts of the lake. The shores are in this part strewed with the fragments of blue limestone rock with orga- nic remains. The immediate shores are generally low all the way to Crown Point, where the lake suddenly turns to the west at a right angle, and at the distance of a mile as suddenly to the north again. A low stretch of land, covered with a young forest on the left, conceals the approach to mi ml. i i (] ■■■;■, mtm 152 ROUTE TO CANADA. I ■rM this ancient fortress, which, for position as we)l as a pearance and history, may be called the twin sister of Ticonderoga. Chimney Point, where the steamboat often re- ceives and lands passengers, is on the north side of the lake, with a large public house in a pleas- ant situation ; and here is the place to stop, if the traveller intends to visit Crown Point, which is opposite, across a ferry | of a mile. The Fortress of Crown Point. There are several old works thrown up along the shore, with little bays between them. The easternmost is called the Grenadiers' Battery, the middle one is the original old French fort of 1731, and now encloses a garden ; and that further west is an outwork to a bastion of the fortress. The fortress is about a quarter of a mile from the shore, showing the walls and chimneys of the old barracks, and walls of earth surrounding them. The fortress of Crown Point was a star work, being in the form of a pentagon, with bas- tions at the angles, and a strong redoubt at the distance of 250 or 300 yards in advance of each of them. The fortress is surrounded by a ditch walled in with stone, except where it has been blasted into the solid rock of blue limestone, (as is the case in many parts, from five to twenty-five feet,) and even into the quartz rock which under- lays it* Univalve shells are found in the limestone rock, frequently four inches in diameter. The walls are about 20 or 25 feet high, and there is a convenient path running entirely round upon the top, interrupted only by the gates at the north and south sides. Although much shaded by tall sn- I CROWN POINT. 153 as well he twin iften re- rth side a pleas- p, if the whicli is 'P m. along The tery, the of 1731, iher west )r nile from j's of the rounding s a star ith bas- bt at the of each a ditch as been tone, (as enty-five h tinder- mestone r. The ere is a pon the orth and tall sn- 1 macs, some fine views are enjoyed in making the circuit, which is not far short of half a mile. Opposite the north gate is a small ledge of rocks; and close by, the remains of a covered or subterraneous way to the lake shore. On enter- ing the fortress, the stranger finds himself in a level, spacious area, bounded on the left, and in from, by long ruinous buildings of stone, two stories high, and the first 220 feet long, while the ruins of similar ones are seen on two sides on the right. This parade is about 500 feet in length. The place was surprised by Col. Warner in 1775. The view from the walls towards the north is very fine : looking down the lake, which widens at the distance of two or three miles, you have Chimney Point on the right, and two other Points projecting beyond the distant peak, called CameVs Hump, A range of mountains on the western shore, beginning at the distance of 18 miles, in- cluding Bald Peak, gradually approach till they form a near and bold boundary to the lake on the left, scattered with cleared farms and houses, and then stretching away to the south, terminate in the mountain, behind. This elevation, although it seams almost as well calculated to command Crown Point as Mount Defiance does Ticondero- ga, is rot less than four miles distant. Every thing about this old fortress bears the marks of ruin. Two magazines were blown up; the timbers in the south barracks are burnt black; while some of the entrances and other parts are fenced up for a sheep fold. The ground around it is much covered with fragments of blasted rocks, and, particularly at the south, with the ruins of old 13 l if: ; k, ji] i ', f. 154 ROUTE TO CANADA. buildings. The trees which are seen have grown since the evacuation of the phice ; and on one of the angles is an inscription ol' the date of the for- tress : 1750. In 1776, the British had a fleet on liake Cham- plain, composed of the following vessels : ship In- flexible, Capt. Pringle, carrying 18 twelve-ponnd- ers ; two schooners, one with 14. the other with 12 six-poiinders ; a flat-bottomed radeau with 6 twenty-fours and G twelves ; and 20 small craft, each carrying a gun from nine to twenty-four pounders, and several long-boats, besides boats for baggage stores, &.c. The Americans had only 2 brigs, 1 corvette, 1 sloop, 3 galleys, and 8 gondolas, the largest ves- sel carrying only 12 six and four pounders. These were under the command of Arnold, who drew them up between the island of Valincourt and the western shore, where they were attacked. They fought four hours, and the Britisli retreated; but while making his way towards Crown Point, Ar- nold was overtaken, and nearly all the squadron fled up the lake, passing this place which ^vas evacuated. Arnold remained fiohtinff as lonff as possible, and did not leave his vessel until she had taken fire. On making a signal at the ferry to the steam- boat, she will stop and send for a passenger. Proceeding down tlie lake, the breadth of it soon increases, and at the two islands on the right it is about H miles across. A little furtlier is Put-in-Bayj on the eastern shore, with an island of the same name. A little north of this is a small island on the right, with three bushes on it, ( j I ^' LAKE CIIAMPLAIN. 155 .::1,'' c grown 1 one of the lor- Cham- ship In- >poiind- icr with with 6 ill craft, nty-four )oats for vettc, 1 ^est ves- These no drew and the They ed ; but nt, Ar- uadron A\ was ong as ?he had steam- senger. it soon ht it is s island is a on it, which has hence obtained the name of the Scotch Bonnet, Looking sonth the lakn presents a hne expanse, extending almost to Crown Point, with Buld Peak conspicuous on the right. Basin Harbor is a stopping place. Tt is very small, with room for only 3 or 4 vessels. At a great distance in the N. E. is seen the Caniel's Hump: further north a high mountain in Hali- fax, Vt. Sloop Island 17 miles from Burlington, is low in the middle, and contains several trees, which look not unlike masts. It was mistaken for a sloop in a misty day, in the Revolutionary or French war, and fired upon by a vessel, whence its name. At Hartford the lake suddenly opens to the breadth of several miles, and a new scene is pre- sented to vi( ,v. On the west side is a rounded island covered with pine trees, like much of the shore previously seen, and separated from the mainland only by a narrow rent of about fifteen feet. Apparently just within this aperture is a rude arch of rock, like the remains of an ancient bridge. A beautiful bay makes up behind the island, of which a glimpse is caught in passing; and a little further north it opens beautifully to view, with a smooth declining shore cultivated for several miles; while a blue ranjre of the Allegha- nies rises behind them, like the Catskill Moun- tains seen from the city of Hudson. On the eastern side, the Green Mountains tower at a distance over the wild, uncultivated shore, till a cluster of white buildings is discovered form- ing the little village of Charlotte or M'Neil's Fer- r 'I , ,*. t 156 ROUTE TO CANADA. •)i- ry, which ia backed by a feiv fields and orchards. Further north the shores aie rockv, and rise ab- ruptly from the water. BURLINGTON, 75 miles from Whitehall^ This is the largest town on Lake Chaniplali: and is situated in a commanding as well as a deliglit- ful position. The lake suddenly widens as you approach it from tho south, and a fine semicircular bay puts up to it from the west, surrounded by a crescent of high ground, under the shelter of which the town is situated. The view from the top of the hills is truly admirable ; embracing in the foreground the elegant gardens of some of the wealthier inhabitants, with the streets of Burling- ton below, the curving form of the bay, the whole breadth of the lake, htire ten miles across, and a noble chain of distant blue mountains on the op- posite side. The college has been rebuilt. [The road to Windsor, by the Gulf is \^ry good and interesting. The road to Montreal passes Swanton, St. Alban's, &;c. The lake is occa- sionally insight; and for a distance of six miles, round the head of Missiscoui Bay, the road runs along the shore. At that place vast quantities of lumber are annually collected.] Port Kent is a small village on the western snore, 16 miles from Burhngton. It was begun in 1824, as a port to the iron works a little back in the country, where is a vast quantity of ore. PLATTSBURGH, 8 W77e5.— This is a town of considerable importance, on the banks of the Sa- ranac, and just behind the high and steep bank of the lake, on which is a line of forts erected for the defence of the place. The town commands i i ROUSliVs POINT. 157 rchards. rise ab- ehalL — ah: and deligiit- as you [circular td by a )f which e top of ; in the B of the Burling- le whole a, and a the op- t. 3ry good passes lis occa- X miles, d runs tities of Iwestern begun ,Ie back ore. Itown of the Sa- Ibank of ted for mauds i i ) H a fine view. There arc some remark able Water' falls on the Sjiranac. Thk Battle of Plattsburgii. — While Gen. Macon. b was stationed at Plattsburgh, during the last war, Sir George Provost came from Canada with an army, and occupying the village, stood ready to attack the American troops, who were in pos?ition on the elevated ground, between the e«ist bank of tlie Saranac and the precipitous shore of the lake. Com. M'Donough was on the lake with the American squadron; and hearing of the ap- proach of Capt. Dovvnie with the British ships, extended his line between Hospital Island and Cumberland Head, where he received and fought the enemy, with such success as to capture all his vessels. The action continued two hours and 20 mirnites, and was performed in full sight of the ar- mies. Capt. Downie's ship, the Confiance, had 105 shot in her hull, and the Saratoga 69, and was twice on fire, i'his battle caused the retreat of Prevost, and relieved that part of the country from the danorer of bein^ overrun. ]\'b Donougli' s far ni on that part of Cumberland Head which is opposite the scene of his battle, consists of 200 acres. It was presented to him by the legislature of Vermont, in gratitude for his victory. CHAZY, \5 miles. Rouse's Point, 12 miles. — There is a village by this name, on the western side; and a mile beyond it, The Fort, which is a kind of castle, built of hewn stone, with perpendicular walls, and three tiers of embrasures. It stands at the end of a low point, and was built to command the passage of the lake 13* M ! ^1 '* u ' ! iV li ■i*-' it 1 MH^ ]58 ROUTE TO CANAt)A. *'1 ■ft I ' - .' .1 I. Iff pt during the last war. On running the line of the United States and Canada, tlic commissioners at first fixed the boundary a little south of this place, so as to bring the fort within the limits of the lat- ter; but in consequence of the line agreed on by the treaty coming too near Quebec, it was deter- mined that an arrangement should be made for the benefit of both parties ; and the boundary has been left in its former place. An opening through the woods, like a road, marks the place, about half a mile north of the fort. The country hereabouts is very uninteresting : for the level country has begun which extends far into Canada, The appearance of the banks is quite uniform; they being low, and in many pla- ces almost overflown by the waters of the lake. Isle aux Noix, 11 miles. — This is the English frontier post, and has been chosen with judgment; as although the ground is of hardly any elevation, it is higher than any in the neighborhood ; and the island is so situated as partly to occupy the channel, and entirely to command it. There is a long wall and battery on the south side, with angles; beyond which are seen a large stone building, and the roofs of others on the left and right of it, forming the storehouses, &c. of the post. The channel is on the east side, and very narrow, faced for a considerable distance by another battery. Sentries are posted in different places. The ship-yard succeeds, and the ofl^cers' quarters, generally neat one story buildings, with little gardens tastefully laid out. Here is a land- ing place in the Chinese style. A large stockaded hospital succeeds, with a large arch raised on the St. JOHN S. 159 c of the loners ut lis place, r the lat- (1 on by IS deter- e fur the has been ough the ut half a cresting : lends far banks is any pla- he lake. ! English dgment ; levation, od ; and upy the e south a large the left ;c. of the |nd very nee by piflTerent lofficers' fs, with la land- )ckaded on the I w 1 shore, bearing the royal erown. The little cabins are the oldiers' quarters, and some of them are neat, and ornamented \\ illi tlovvers. The expedition against Canada, in 1775, con- sisted of two divisions: one of 3000 Ncnv-Kngland and Nevv-Yoik sohiiers, under Generals Schuyler and Montgomery, ])rocieded down lake (^ham- plain in rafts, from Ticonderoga and Crown Point, and took position at Isle aux Noix. The other, which was planned and despatched subsequently, under Gc;n. Arnold, proceeded through the wil- derness, in the District of Maine, for Quebec. The former division, after a little delay, proceed- ed to St, John's. They afterward formed at this place a chevaux-de-frieze in the river. Beyond, the shores continue low and uninterest- ing, with numerous cabins of settlers near the water, the forest encroaching to within a short distance behind. St. John's, 10 miles. — Here the steamboat stops at the head of the rapids, and at the end of navigation. Stage coaches take passengers to Montreal (16 miles by land, and 9 by water, on the St. Lawrence, in a steamboat.) The village presents nothing worthy of particu- lar attention, except as the scene of some military deeds, connected with the expedition of General Montgomery against this country. While the con- tinental troops were stationed at Jsle aux Noix, in 1775, Generals Montgomery and Schuyler invest- ed the fort, which contained a garrison of 5 or 600 troops, besides 200 Canadians, and was com- manded by Major Preston. The siege lasted six weeks, and they did not capitulate till some time \ tf tSHttr ' 'i .'4 '■■ -^ ' ■1 'J 'I y ft f< r i IGO ROUTE TO CANADA. m \ \ 1 ji »■ 9 i. y 1 1 ■■ aftor tlie smrcndcu* of (^liiimhly, nor liil tlio Aincr* icuiis had l)j()U<4lit tluir IiumicIk's to the walls of thi; fort. 'I'Imy tht'n ohlaiiu'd possession of 17 brass pieces, ii'4 iron, 7 uiorlara, with bulls, bombs, The ('anadiau money is dilVcrent from that of tlu; Ihiited Slales ; l)nt in conseiinenei; of the con- tinual intercourse, the latter passes currently. Nine sous or coppers, (which are of various and SonuUimes curious stamps,) (M[ual six cents. Two sous nearly \(L and *^() cents a shilliiijij. The pleasantest road from St. John's to Mon.^ trcal, is by CluMubly, and Lonirucil. Leaving St. .lohn's for Montreal, by Laprairic, the road |)asses about a mile alonj^ the western shore of the Kiver Richelieu, which sometimes takes the names of 8t. John's and Sorel, in conse- quence of its running by those towns. Several mountains arc in sight, as Belcjeil, liuucliervillc, &c. The Rapids may be regarded as a specimen, on a small scale, of the numerous rapids in the St» Lawrence, which will hereafter excite the interest, if not the apprehension, of the stranger. The bed of the Richelieu has a rapid descent in several pla- ces, where it comes immediately under observa- tion, and becomes so shallow as to be passable, even for the flattest boats, only during the floods. In the summer it is generally only a few inches deep, and the surface is broken by numerous stones of all sizes, and here and there by little wa- terfalls near the shore. At the same time the banks are low and flat; the houses of one floor, white-washed, and built at nearly equal distances, LOWKK CANADA, 161 iio Aiuor* walls of on of 17 3, bombs, n that of ' the coii- urrciitly. ions aiui ts. Two to Mon- laprairie, WCStClM Miictimcs in CO use - Several •hervilic, nen, oa the St> ntercst, The bed eral pla- bKserva- assable, floods, inches merous ttle wa- me the i floor, tanccs, I { facing the river; and, in short, the general cliar- arter of a scene on the St. lja\\renre, may he ima- g\\\v.{\ from a view here, by making allowance for its size and fertility. It has been proposed to make a canal to the St. Lawrence ; but it is said ihaX th»i channel of the St. John's might be iniproved, by stone walls to confine the water over tliese rapids. The <>ham- bly rai)ids might be j)assed by a short canal; and the only remaining obstructions till those at the nioulli ar(^ at St. TluMese anti Mille Roches. The inhabitants along tlie road j)resent the as- pect of foreigners, in dress, countenance, manners, customs, and language. Their fashions are an- tique, and many of them have not been changed for ages : The men wear the Canadian jacket, cap, or hat, red sash, and moccasin of rough leather. The women work laboriously in the field, and all of them speak French, generally without know- ing a word of any other language. The farms will be observed, laid out in strips of 1 or 200 acres, flat, broad, and 1, 2, or even 3 miles in length ; and the system of farming is extremely bad, as will be discovered at once, by the acres that are consiijned to the useless and destructive little Canada Thistle. There is no such thing known here as the doctrine of a rotation of crops, and land is recovered to fertility by lying fallow, except that lately the use of manure has begun to be resorted to in -a small degree. The horses are of a small breed, well known in the northern states by the name of the country. They are small, but powerful, hardy, and treated with great care. Many of them are driven across the line, and large In I it i- II 11 III [< M I .1 162 RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. horses introduced into the towns in return. The value of a common Canadiyn horse is about ^40; and of a good one $6u. The land titles have been extremely doubtful. There is littU; encouragement to settlers, 12 per cent, is payable to the Seigneur, on sales of real estate, besides other heavy taxes of different de- scriptions. The landscape is unvarying; the in- habitants, as well as the soil, are poor ; and there is nothing that deserves the name of a village. In many cases land of exactly the same description is worth from 10 to 15 shillings an acre on the Vermont and New-York side of the line, and only 1 shilling on the Canada side. We pass a house now and then, dignified by a tall pole or mast rais- ed in front oi it, which is a singular mark of dis- tinction conceded to officers of militia, and usually adopted by those of the lowest grades. The people appear very happy, and have healthy countenances, inclining to round faces and thick lips. Their aspect denotes a want of education, which is the real cause of the backward condition of society in Canada. They are all Catholics ; and the churches seen here and there upon the road, are devoted to the service of the Romish church. The Half-Way House is generally r opped at only a few minutes. The land is divided in some places by ditches round the farms. One of the most singular traits in the domestic arrangements of the Canadians, is building the oven not onlyoi^t of doors, like the Dutch, but di- rectly over the pig sty. The mountain from which the city of Montreal I LAPRAIRIE. 163 rn. The >ontf40; lave been rs, 12 per ;s of real brent de- ; ; the in- jnd there llage. In scription e on the and only 3 a house nast rais- rk of dis- d usually e healthy nd thick lucation, ondition itholics ; pon the Romish opped at in some omestic \g the , but di- ontreal derived its name, and which rises immediately be- hind It, may be discovered at a orcat distance ; and the house of INlr. M'Tavish maybe perceived, like a white spot, a little distance up its side. Some time before reaching tiie river, you pass an extensive common, lying on the south side of the road, and then enter the town of Laprairie. This is a large town, from which the steamboats cross several times a day, to Mon- treal, t) miles. The place is built after the Cana- dian fashion ; and very few of tlie inhabitants speak English. The streets are narrow, the houses low, and nothing is to be seen worthy of particular no- tice, excepting a nunnery and the church. The nuns possess a large tract of land, nearly in the centre of the town, which is surrounded by a high wall ; and they devote their time to the care of the sick, and the education of girls. Montreal is distinguished at the distance of 9 miles, by its thick mass of buildings, roofed with sheets of tin, and overtopped by church spires, shining with the same n»clal. Behind it rises a fine mountain, spotted with orchards ; on the right, down the St. Lawrence, is the fortified island of St. Helen ; and on tlie left, that of the Nuns, and several smaller ones at a distance, through which are seen the sheets of while foam caused by the rapids. The shores are low and perfectly llat in every direction ; which, with the wide expanse of water, gives an aspect of tiresome monotony and extension to the scene. Uniformity will be found characteristic of almost the whole vo) age to Que- bec. The current of the river is extremely rapid, ■J .ill ■ III if ,.-' 'i.. ^^t^ i i ■^ Is it-^-^9 164 MONTR! A L. particularly near tlioso parts uhoro the anrfaco is broken by rocks ; but the stcuinboats are able to effect t!»e passage with facility and in safety. It is impossible for any boat to go thron^^h tbe current without beinp; borne rapidly down in some places ; and there is ii part of the river near tbe ndddle, where the water is clear, and tbe rod s are easily seen on the bottom, as tbe boats ^lide on above them. In returning, tbe boats sometimes pass be- tween two rocks, near tbe rapids, that on tbe east being under water. Here tbe river is much agi- tated, and sometimes throws the water on deck without any danger. A large tinned roof in the city, on tbe left, with a small steeple, belongs to tbe convent of Gray Nuns ; further back is the UecolU t, church ; then the French Parish church, near which is seen the Great Cathedral. The Knglish Kpiscopal church has a tall pyramidal spire ; and that which rises farther to the right, and near the shore, is the church of Bon-secours. From some places may be seen the top of Nelson's monument, with seve- ral other remarkable objects, particularly the bar- racks, on the right, behind the remnant of the old city wall. MONTREAL. Inns, Masonic Hall, at the north end of the city, with a piazza over the bank : Goodenough's, St. Panl's-street ; Mansion house, do. &c. These are all large houses, and porters will be found on the shore belonging to eacli, who will convey the luggage, and show the way. The landing place is unpleasant, and the stran- ger may be struck with the narrowness of the i 11 r face 18 ii able ti» y. It is J current • places ; irc easily ou above i pass bc- i ilic cast inch agi- on deck left, with i of (jray rch ; then 3 seen the al church hich rises e, is the aces may vith seve- ihe bar- f the old Ind of the [enough's, . These found on >nvey the the slran- Is of the ) MONTREAL. 165 streets, tlic lownrss nnd heavy aspect of the houses, whicli nrc of stone or |)la.st('rc(l to r('s('rMl)h* it. Montreal contains many line bnildin^H and other oI»jects worthy of nolirc, to^clher wiih a vicinity which in the warm seayon ol lUv. year is truly de- lij;htful. Those who remain hut a sh(>rt tinu; in this city, may easily [)ay a hasty visit U) the principal objects of curiosity ; and are recomnuMidcd to take a walk throiigh the two |)rincipal str(;els, and to notice the following buildings and places. At the north erul of Ht. PauTs-street are the T5ar- racUs. Above thes(! are the Hospital and Public Baths. Just above the Masonic Hall is the French church of IJun-secours, which hke the other Ca- nadian religious buildings nc^nerally. is foruKul much on the plan of those in T'lance. This is near the northern limit of Montreal, beyond which be- gins the Quebec suburb. Masonic Hall ^ on the eastern side of the street. Theatre^ adjoining the Masonic Htdi. Market Placc^ anl NclsorCs Mminmcvt. Then follows a double row of shops. On the east side are several, which show articles of Indian manu- facture for sale. These, however, had better be bought at the nunneries, if it is intended to visit them. The Black Nuns^ Garden^ Convent, and Chapel, are on the west side of the stret t. The wall is very high. The porter at the gate will give ad- mission and directions, but in French. Visit( rs are expected to purchase a few articles of nuns' or In- dian manufacture. It is most agreeable to go in parties. 14 , ;> _ '(J 1 i ■ I i rn * (I i 166 MONTREAL. 'if The New Cathedral and Old Parish Church are close by ; a shorl street leads to them, west. The New Cathedral is probably the largest church in North America, except Mexico. It is partly copied from some of the European models of the 13th, 14th, and I5th centuries. It is of the plainest style that can bear the name of Gothic; any exuberance of ornament being inconsistent with a clin ate so severe as that of Canada. It is 255 feet long from west to east, and 134 feet wide. It was designed to have six quadran- gular towers, each 200 feet high : 3 on each flank, and two at each end. Tlie curtain, or space be- tween the front towers is 73 feet by 119, and has parapets. There are 5 public entrances and 3 private to the first floor, and 4 to the galleries. The building can contain 10,000 persons, which number may assemble and disperse in a few min- utes. The eastern window over the high altar is 32 by 64 feet, and is divided by shafts and mullions for stained glass. The groins of the ceiling are painted in fresco. The ceiling is SO feet high, groined and partly supported by a double range of grouped columns, intersected by rails. The cir- cuit of the edifice is 1125 feet. There are to be 7 altars. The floor rises grad- ually Irom the entrance to the high altar. The house is to be warmed bv heated air from stoves under the floor. The exterior is faced with hewn stone, from the mountain. A promenade 75 feet by 25, elevated more than 100 feet between the towers will command a noble view. Goodenough's Hotel is on the west side, in a court yard. — Further on, a street on the opposite side brings you in sight of the I urch are ;st. ! largest ). It is I models is of the Gothic ; onsistent la. and 134 quadran- ach flank, pace be- , and has 3S and 3 galleries, ns, which few min- h altar is mullions Eiling are eet high, e range of The cir- in a court osite side 1 MONTREAL. 167 Gray Nuns^ Convent, a large stone building, partly new, about 410 feet in length. Mansion House Hotel, St, Paul's street, below an open square. [The Canal to Lacliine begins on the river shore, nearly against here. J The Seminary (La Seminaire de St. Sulpice,) is an antique building, and contains a Catholic libra- ry of about 6000 volumes ; but access to it is not very easily obtained. The Priests are the Seig- neurs of the whole island of Montreal. The College is a large building of stone, three stories high, erected in 1 8 1 9 out of the funds of the "Seininarv." It has a front of about 1 50 feet, with wings projecting in front and rear, which make the whole length about 220 feet. In order to guard against fire, there is scarcely any wood used in the construction ; and large iron doors are hung in the passages in such a manner that, by shutting them, the whole building may be divided into three parts, each fire-proof. It contains about 300 students, who arc divided into 8 classes, to each of which is devoted a year, witti the exception of the two last, which occupy but 6 months apiece ; so that the whole course of instruction is finished in 7 years. Many of the pupils, however, leave the institution before com- pleting the course. The Chapel is in the south wing ; and the rest of the building is divided into recitation rooms, and bed rooms, the former of which are hung v th maps and religious pictures, and the latter suppli- ed with crosses and fonts. Every thing is \GTy plain in the furniture. The price of instruction is ( l' i ''m. I 168 Montreal. I about eighty dollars per year, and sorrie oi the pupils have alh)vvances made then ; particidarly those designed for the Church, who assist in in- struction by day, and study by nioht. There is a preparatory School connected with the College. One of the instructers always oversees the boys in their recreations. Returning to the square, and entering another principal street running parallel to St. Paul's, you pass numerous resj)eclable and some elegant dwell- ings, leaving the Parish Church and the new Ca- thedral on the east. The Wesleyan ChapeL The American Congre- gational, and the English Episcopal Churches are passed on this side of the town. The Court House is large, but old ; and in the rear of it is The Parade, a handsome piocc of ground, with a walk, where the troops are drilled every morn- ing, generally at ten o'clock. The Society of Natural History have an interest- ing collection of animals, minerals, plants, &c. principally collected in the provinces. A House of Industry has been established. The British and Canadian School Society estab- lished Schools on the British system in Montreal, in Sept. 1822. It is supported by voluntary sub' scriptions. There is a Lancasterian School of several hun- dred scholars, and an Episcopal School on Bell's eystem. The Priests in Canada have begun to educate in self-defence. The schools provided for by gOv vernment, are restricted to masters of the English r MONTREAL. 169 01 the ciilarly t in in- ere is a college, boys irt another il's, you »t dwell- new Ca- Congre* ches are id in the nd, with y morn- interest- its, &c. led. ty estab- ontreal, ry sub- Iral hun- ►n Bell's lucate in by go^ lEnglish .) Church ; and a considerable number of school- houses have been erected, but ahiiust confined to the townships. In 1829, there were, in jlontrcal, Quebec, and Three Rivers, 3 schools of royal institution, 2 col- leges, 6 convents, 11 gratuitous scliuuls, (contain- ing 1214 pupils,) and 50 other scbools. In tlie country, there were 70 schools of royal institution, 4 colleges, and 14 nussion schools. Island of St. Helen, or Grant's Island, is a military position and depot. It is principally covered with trees ; but has a beautiful garden be- hind the quarters of the officers ; and a fine road winding round from the landing place, on the south end, (where are some remains of old works, and a new battery,) to a rocky eminence over the arsenal, which is opposite the northern quarter of the town. This rock is about 1 1 feet higher than the most elevated parts of the city ; and the view from it is handsome, with a wild ravine just below. The arsenal and storehouses form three build- ings, with a narrow yard between them, about 125 feet in length. The batteries range on the river and town, and are furnished with neat barracks, a magazine, Alc. The Mountain of Montreal, offers an exten- sive and delightful view, and should by no means be forgotten by those who have an opportunity to undertake the excursion. It is better calculated to afford an idea of the country, as well as to delight the eye, than any other excursion which can be made. Yet it is recommended, if the traveller stays long enough, to take a ride or two in different di- rections, after having visited this favorite spot. 14* V i^T^r! Y t SI, ^ 1 170 ROVTE IN CANADA. h ^i Capt. Partrulire states its elevation at676 feet abovd tide water. ?'herc are three ways of reaching tlie summit of the mountain : 07i foot, by an intricate route from the southern part of the city ; on horseback, or in a carriage^ to the ridge ; or round the north end to the rear. There is also a footpath up the north end. A private road turns ofTfrom the south- ern road on the ridge, passing through a gate* Heretofore the only good point of view has been from a rock above M'Tavi^h's house, whence a very steep path bads directly down. The country spread out to view on arriving at this commanding height, is a plain of such vast extent as to appear in many directions quite boundless. In fact, it stretches much farther than would be imagined ; for all the way to Quebec the river's banks present the same appearance. The spectator faces the east. The side of the mountain, ahnost precipitous, is thickly covered with trees, wliich soon give place below to a smooth descent, chiefly devoted to pasturage, on the ele- vation of which stands M'Tavish's house. A beau- tiful display of cultivated fields succeeds on the level, divided by high palings, and scattered with a few houses. Below a moderate descent, which ap- pears like an old bank of the rivor, gardens and dwellings begin to increase : and behind a sue* ceeding one, of a similar description, are suburbs. EasU on the horizon, is Boucherville Mountain; and over it Beloeil Mountain. The plain country between the Sorel and St. Lawrence is divided into innumerable fields, with scattering houses. In the same direction is seen St. Helen's, or Grant's i i EXCURSION TO LACHINE. 171 tabovd summit to route rschack, \e north I up the e south- a gate* las been hence a country mantling ) appear 1 fact, it nagined ; 3 present [le of the covered smooth the eie- A beau- on the d with a vhich ap- ens and d a sue* suburbs, lountain; country ided into . In the • Grant's Island ; and in a direction with the south end of it, the steeple of Bon-sccour church. North of this arc the Quebec suburbs, bcsrinninff near the barracks; the Waterworks, and Baths. Nearer, are s.en St. Louis and 8t. Lawrence suburbs. S. S. East, on the opposite shore, La Prairie ; and nearly over it, the site of St. John's, which is not distinguishable. In a range with them, is Nuns' Island, and Nuns' Farm, the latter on this shore. The river is 3^ miles wide. The suburbs on the south side of the city, are St. Antoine, llicolet, St. Anne's, and St, Joseph's. Distant Mountains. North. Bout de I'lsle, the extremity of Mon- treal Island, Pointe aux Trembles, and the village of Boucherville ; opposite which is Longueil, and further do wn,Varennes, with a tuo-steepled church. iV. East^ the view is boundless, with a succes- sion of cultivated fields, which in the distance be- come quite undistinguishable Road round the Mountain, — The road near the north end of the mountain is ornamented with ma- ny beautiful seats, and there are also some exten- sive manufactories. Behind it is a fine extent of cultivated ground. Excursion to Lachine, 9 miles or 3 leagues. The river road is pleasantest ; giving a view of the Rapids, Nuns' and Heron Islands, the Indian village of Caughnawaga opposite, and crossing the Lachine Canal, At Lachine is a small house kept by an American. Crystals of axenite (carb. lime) were found in excavating the canal. The pebbles along the shore are the fragments of granite, while the black, or deep purple rocks which form the channel are limestone, lying in strata nearly hori- zontal. n al I " I; ^ ! m I < 1 ;t 1 • 1 ftt W Vf 172 ROUTE IN CANADA. fl The soutliern road to the Mountain, which cross- es it lit the less elevated purt of the ridge, near the middle, leads through 8t. Joseph's suburbs, and afterward passes a number of line country seats. The most remarkable are those of Mr. M'Gillivray, and the late Mr. (ircgory, members of the old North-West Company, ' .h has lately been con- verted into the IJudson^s Bay Company. It en- grossed the Indian trade for a vast distance up the lakes, and enriched many individuals, whose resi- dences add materially to the appearance of the city and its environs. The Priests^ Farm is passed on the left, near the base of the mountain, and is a large tract of land, with an old building in the ancient European style, preserving many of the features of feudal days, with its projecting square towers, small win- dows, pointed roofs, and weather-beaten walls. The barns connected with it are very spacious. The whole island of Montreal is a Seigneurie, in which the monks of Ricolet, as Seigneurs, have the right of a tax on every farm, on every purchase and sale of real estate, and many other privileges, vested in them by the king of France on the first settlement of the place. Circumstances have con- spired to reduce and destroy many of these privi- leges, so that the annual income of the priests from this rich and valuable Seigneurie, though large, is very trivial, in comparison with its extent and fer- tility. Col. Allen, with his detachment for the surprise of Montreal, in 1776, crossed the river from Lon- gueil ; but Major Brown, not being able to land above the city as was intended, the former was ta- THE OREAT OTTAWA BRIDGE. 173 cross- car the s, and ' seats, ilivray, he old en con- It en- ) up the ise resi- the city ft, near tract of uropean f feudal lall wia- 1 walls, pious, eurie, in s, have urchase livileges, the first lave con- e privi- sts from [large, is and fer- |surprise >m Len- to land was ta- ken prisoner by Gov. Carlcton, after a sharp en- gagement, loaded with irons, and sent to Cngland. Col. Warner afterward erected batteries on the shore at Longueil, by which he drove back the go- vernor when he attempted to land on his way to relieve St. John's. The population of Montreal, by a census taken in 1825, was nearly 24,000 ; and 4 or 500 greater than that of Quebec. [THE RIDEAU CANAL is to effect a naviga- ble communication between Lake Ontario and the Ottawa river.] Boats go from Montreal up the Grand River to the mouth of the Rideau, and the commencement of the canal, by the La Chine and Greenville cauah. Bytown is situated at the junction of theRideau and Ottawa ; 120 miles from Montreal, and 150 from Kingston. The Rideau received its French name from the beautiful cascade, like a white cur- tain, with which it descends 27 feet, into the Ot- tawa. North of the town the Otta a is about a mile in breadth. It has a fall of 32 eet, and is di- versified with numerous islands. Below the fall the water is very deep ; and the Rideau Canal hero descends to it down a narrow cleft in a precipitous bank by eight locks of fine stone work, ten feet lift. The canal, on gaining the eminence, passes through the village, and opens upon a large beaver meadow of 250 acres, vi'hich receives a branch ca-» nal from Lake Chaudie' e on the Ottawa. A little south of the town is a mountainous ridge, through which the canal passes by a natural notch. The Great Ottawa Bridge is an i.iimense struc- ture, of bold design and admirable workmanship. ; 'i 1 1 '; i < ■ ''V W 7T 174 ROUTE IN CANADA. The first two arches on the Lower Canada side, arc each sixty lent span, and of stone, exicnding over the two channels on that side of the Kettle. Then follows a piece of wooden hridgc, rising on trestles, which brings the traveller to an island, beyond which is a rapid and tumultuous current^ called the Chaudiere (ireat Kettle. Over this an attempt was made, which was repeated in 1828 with success, to throw a magnificent arch, of 220 feet span. Two arches cross the smaller chan- nels on the other side. From the bridge a fine road had been opened in the upper province to the village. A wooden bridge on this road, 114 feet span, crosses a gul- ley. Hull is opposite Bytown, connected with it by the great Ottawa Bridge. This township belongs to Philemon Wright, Esq. an American farmer of great affluence and experience. His settlement, called Wrightstown, is seen from Bytown, being situated at the Falls. ROUTE FROM MONTREAL TO QUEBEC. Road to Quebec — It is recommended to those who may find it convenient, to make arrange- ments for performing a part of the journey in this manner, either going or returning. The country is indeed a dead level, but it is en- tirely reduced to cultivation, thickly populated, and furnished with good roads. The way lies along the very margin of the St. Lawrence, pass- ing an almost uninterrupted succession of dwejl-s ings, and supplied with many comfortable and some good inns. Steamboat to Quebec. — Leaving Montreal Ja sitlcf lending KctlltJ. tsing on islund, current, this an in 1828 , of 220 er chan- opencd wooden cs a gul- th it by- belongs armer of tlement, 1, being EBEC. to those arrange- y in this it is en- pulated, way lies ce, pass- f dwelU ble and I r THE ST. LAWRENCE. 175 I I i Lon treal in tlic steamboat, you pass under the Fort on St. Helen's Island, the steciples and cupolas of the city being seen nearly in the following order be- ginning at the south end ; (jray Nuns', Ricolet Church, Black Nuns', New and Old Cathedrals, Episcopal (yhurch. Nelson's Monument, Bon-se- cour Church. Near the last, on the shore, is the Masonic Hotel, then the Barracks, Waterworks, and Baths, the beginning of the Quebec suburbs, the residences of Judge Reed and Mr. Malson, with terraced gardens towards the river, &c. A little below is Malson's Brewery, and the late Sir John Johnson's residence. The following are the villages on the south bank of the St. Lawrence, on the way from Mon- treal to Quebec, ^i'he principal ones are descri-* bed below, and the churclies of most of them are visible from the steamhoat : Laprairie, (200 hou- ses,) Longueil, Boucherville, (a cliurch and 100 houses,) Varennes, (a church with three spires, 15 miles from Montreal,) Ycrcheres, Contrecoeur, Sorel or William Henry, Yamaska, (with a pro- testant church,) St. Francis, Bale St. Antoine, or Lefebvre, (tlie three last Seignories, on the shore of Lake St. Peter, invisible from the water) Nico- let, Gregoire, Becancour, (opposite Three Rivers,) Gentilly, Pierre les Becquets, Deschaillons, Lot- biniore, St. Croix, Antoine, Nicholas. The following villages are on the north bank: Long Point, Pointe aux Trembles, Repentigny, Sulpice, (with many stores for produce, 24 miles from Montreal,) Lavaltrie, Lanoraye, Isle du Pas, (the church on an island, between Berthier and Sorel,) Berthier, Maskinonge, Riviere du Loup, \ (1 y m tie ROUTE IN CANADA. li U ! I !«!' (wjth a large church with three steeples,) Ma- chiclie, Pointe du Lac, (the end of Lake 8t. Pe- ter,) Ttiree Rivers, Cap de la Madeleine, Cham- plain, Baliscan, St. Anne, Grondines, Descham- bault, Cap Sante, Belair or Les Ecureuils, Pointe aux Trembles, Augustin. Almost every view that can be taken from the city of Quebec, and around it, is fine : but it makes the best appearance from Point Levi, on the op- posite side of the St. Lawrence. The Rapids of St, Mary are between the island and these last-mentioned objects, and run with such rapidity that steamboats are sometimes obliged to be drawn up by cattle a little distance. Pointe aux Trembles, 9 miles, (3 leagues.) Here is a nunnery, in which is a pretty large school for girls. There are two g J inns in the place. At this place it is recommended to the traveller by land, to make a deviation from the direct road along the river, if he finds it convenient, to seethe delightful country between it and the town of As- somption. There is a beautiful road on each bank, varied with houses and trees. Return so as to strike the road near Machiche is a pretly tow^n, at the mouth of the Riviere du Loup, and has a very neat and com- fortable inn, of the best Canadian stamp. Many French customs are still preserved by the unmixed iiilttibitants of the St. Lawrence, some of which are a2:reeable and interesting. At many of the inns, the traveller will receive the most kind and hospitable attentions, and will find great gratifica- tion in observing the handsome flower-gardens, as well as the neat arrangement of the furniture. es,) Ma- ; »t. Pe- ;, Cham- Descham- Is, Pointe from the It it makes n the op- the island run with sometimes distance. les.) Here school for place. |e traveller ect road to seethe wn of As- on each leturn so mth of the and com- p. Many e unmixed of which ny of the kind and t gratifica- ardens, as liture. (I THE 8T. LAWRENCB. nr There is very little variety to be discovered in the natural surface of the ground, but the journey through this region presents almost an unvarying scene of cultivation and fertility. For a great part of the distance, there is a narrow strip of corn or potatoes between the road and the river's bank, to correspond with the fields which stretch off to such a distance on the other hand ; and the variety of crops, and the occasional rows and clumps of trees, remove, in a good degree, the natural sameness of the landscape. Navigation and Trade of the St. Law- rence, &.C. — Steamboats are of the utmost im- portance on this great river, for they contribute extremely to the convenience and expedition of travelling, and render most valuable assistance to commerce. Thsre are many steamboats constant- ly employed between Montreal and Quebec, most of them fitted to accommodate passengers, as well as to carry freight, and all provided with power- ful engines. The principal article of export from Canada is lumber, a great deal of which is carried to Quebec in immense rafts, and then shipped for England. These rafts have usually a great num- ber of sails to hoist in a fair wind, with huts to shelter the men from the weather, so that they have a very singular appearance, and at a little distance look like a fleet of sail boats. The French Canadians appear, on acquaintance, to be an intelligent people. They certainly are amiable, cheerful, and gay, and their backward- ness in improvements is attributable to the system under which they live. They are generally brought up in great ignorance, and they are taught 15 m K^ f H 1^1 I. '■ P' , it ^ lijl 178 ROUTE IN CANADA. to dislike and avoid not only tlic Protestant prin- ciples, but proteslants then. selves. The author has the word of one of their priests foi stating, that not more than one sixth of the population are ever taught to read or write. In New-England, as is well known, the law provides for the instruction of every child, without exception : and every child is actually instructed. Books and newspapers, therefore, lose their ell'ect as well as their value among these people. The " Procedure'^ of Canada is founded on the edict of Louis 14th, of 1667, and is the basis of the Civil Code. There were no lawyers before the conquest in 17o9, when they were created; and martial law prevailed from that time till 1774. The trial by jury was introduced in 1785; and the constitutional charter in 1791. There are many signs of prosperity exhibited by the farii^ers between Montreal and Three Riv- ers, in the extension or erection of buildings. On each farm is usually to be seen about half an acre of Indian corn, which will furnish 18 or 20 bush- els; and it is the custom not to build fences, the cattle being kept from the land, and fed on weeds until the crops are off. The houses are generally of one story, and are built of wood or stone, according to the natuie of the country. Some of them are formed of squared timbers, and even of round logs ; but the latter are usually employed for the construction of barns only, which are often covered with thatch. The houses and barns are frequently composed of sev- eral small buildings, erected at difi'erent periods, according to the capacity or necessities of the proprietors. int prin- e author stating, ation are glanil, as struction ery child vspapers, leir value ed on the e basis of rs before created ; J till 1774. ) ; and the exhibited hree Riv- ings. On If an acre 20 bush- Mices, the on weeds , and are natuie of if squared latter are II of barns tch. The 5ed of sey- It periods, les of the T?IE ST. LAWRENCE. 179 William Henry, or Sorel, 45 miles, or 15 leagues, from, Movtrcal. 'JMiis town, containing about 2000 inhobitants, is one of the principal places between tiic two ca[)ilals. It is on the south side of the St. Lawrence, at the mouth of tlie Sorel, or Richelieu, in a very sandy situation; and contains nothing worthy of notice except a little old church, a palisadoed fort, and a neat little square, at the distance of a short walk, surrounded with several pretty white houses, a church, &c. a little in the New-England style. The fences are generally low, and aflbrd the sight of gardens. The flowers which abound in the Canadian gard- ens are principally roses, carnations, sweet-wil- liams, candidus, monthly roses (blossoming only a part of the year.) The Government House stands about three-quar- ters of a mile beyond the town. It is a large red building, with barracks near it. The boat turns round on leaving Sorel, and returns to the St. Lawrence, the distant land beginning to have some elevation. On the opposite point, Gen. Montgomery erect- ed batteries on taking the place, in 1776, and pre- pared rafts and floating batteries, which maintain- ed an engagement with the ships in which Gov. Carleton attempted to escape to Quebec, and drove him back towards Montreal. He afterward pass- ed them in an open boat at night; but his vessels fell into the hands of the Americans. Berthicr is on the opposite side of the St. Law- rence, b" 3ut of sight, being behind several low islands. Some of the steamboats stop there in- stead of at Sorel. There is a ferry across. i f r (I 11 mM 1 ' '. ?*'• Ii:i M 1}; lit 180 ROUTE IN CANADA. Lake St. Peter. On entering this large tract of water, the shores at the opposite end appear like mere lines upon the horizon, thi3 land being still so flat near the river as to seem hardly suffi- cient to prevent it from overflowing. A vessel at the opposite end appears like a mere speck, the length of the lake being 20 miles. Pointe du Lac, or Woodlands, is seen on the northern shore, when nearly across ; but it is sit- uated beyond the lake. A ridge of high land con- tinues on the north, following the course of the river. Opposite Woodlands is Nicolet, 9 miles from Three Rivers. The place is large, and contains an English and a French church, together with a nunnery, and a college, founded by the Catholic bishop of Quebec. Three Rivers, [Trois Rivieres.] This is the largest town between Montreal and Quebec, and is 96 miles from the former, and 84 from the latter. The streets are generally straight, and regularly built, though narrow; and the houses, although neat, are only one or two stories high, with wind- ows in the roofs, and being principally plastered, have rather a dark aspect, like those of Montreal. It contains shops of various sorts, and several inns of a decent appearance. The Nunnery is in the east part of the town, and has extensive grouiids connected with it. The Chapel of the Convent has a number of pictures, of which the one on the right of the main altar is the best: Magdalen weeping. The Parish Church is in the south part of the town- Two large buildings, for- merly the Court House and Jail, >vith the Niinnci- ry^ are the principal objects. I 1 r r t h o RAPIDS OF RICHELIEU. 181 ge tract appear id being ly suffi- vessel at 3ck, the n on the : it is sit- land con- 36 of the iles from contains er with a ; Catholic While the American forces were on the retreat from Quebec, in 1775, Gen* Sullivan sent Gen. Thompson down from Sorel to attack this place. He went down the right bank of Lake St. Peter, and landed 9 miles from the town ; but being dis- covered and misled, he found Gen. Frazer drawn up in order of battle, while Gen. Nesbit was sent to cut off his retreat; and the battle, which imme- diately commenced, was short and disastrous to the assailants, who lost their commander, and many officers and soldiers, as prisoners, although they had few killed. After several hours we ap- proach Lothiniere, a village on the south side of the river, known by its double-spired church. It stands on a steep bank, about (iO feet high, and marks the commencement of the Richelieu rapids. The river here winds between broken banks, and the number of cottages is so great as to make the scene more animating. A few blue, brt not lofty, mountains are seen down the river. The land traveller sees the villages of St, Croix, Art' toine and Nicholas. Rapids of Richelieu. The river, which is about two miles wide, here runs with great velo- city, particularly the first three miles; but the water is deep, and the surface unbroken, except near the shores, which are lined with innumerable loose round stones and rocks, extremely dange- rous to vessels when they get among them. These rocks seem placed with much regularity, forming two ranges, and making the water appear as if it had a gradual swell from both sides to the middle of the river. Although the navigation of this 15* *H!- r,'|:g ^ I 'i i 1 'm\ 111 1 1; ill ill!"'; )82 ROUTE IN CANADA. part of the St. Lavvrence requires great skill and caution in other vessels, steamboats pass with se* c'jrity ; yet, on account of the force of the cur- vent at ebb tide, even they aie obliged to vary their hours of leaving Quebec, in such a way as to have the flood through the rapids. Vessels are often seen waiting at the bottom of tlie rapids for a change of tide, or for a steamboat to tow them Up. The rapids extend about nine miles. St. AncJiney on the south bank, is 18 miles (6 leagues) from Quebec. The mountain seen tow- ards the northeast is that of Lorette, and the bank on that side makes a beautiful slope to the river, agreeably varied by cultivated fields, interrupted by occasional patches of woodland. The south shore continues high and nearly perpendicular, with innumerable cottages peeping over the brow. Pointe aux Trembles^ a village on the north shore. The river Is of about the same breadth all along here, viz. about two miles, although it appears much narrower; the depth is about five fathoms, and the tide rises 14 or 15 feet. Not- withstanding the thickness of the population on the shores, the country is a wilderness only about four miles back, being comprehended in what is called the King^s Hunting Ground^ which ex- tends from Three Rivers, 40 or 50 miles below this place. Jacques Cartier, SO miles from Quebec, is a vil- lage on the north side, at the mouth of the river of the same name, distinguished by the name of the first explorer of the river St. Lawrence. Here are the remains of the first church built in Canada. I CAPE DIAMOND. 183 ill and iih se* e cur- o vary way as jels are Ms for \v them niles (6 en tow- hie bank le river, (rriipted e south idicular, \e brow, le north breadth ough it out five Not- tion on y about what is ich ax- is below is a vil- Ihe river lame of Iwrence. Ibuilt in 1 Carouge Creek, on the north side. Here a pret- ty view opens, for a few minutes, into the interior, on the north shore, showing the Indian village of Lorette, at the distance of three or four miles, with an extent of beautiful land, and a range of fine mountains in tlie rear. Chandiere River is a little below, with a rock t)n the lower side, at its mouth. Looking down the St. Lawrence, part of Point Levi is seen, covered with white buildings, one of which is the church. It is opposite Quebec, which remains for a considerable distance invisible. The banks rise to a greater and greater height, and present every variety of surface. Sillery Cove is a mile below, above which was fought the final battle between the English and French, in 1759, after the capture of Quebec by Oeneral Wolfe, which completed the conquest of Canada. Wolfe's Cove is behind the next point. This is the place where Wolfe landed in the night, and up the precipitous bank he climbed with his troops, afterward drawing up his cannon. Here Gen, Ar- nold afterward took up his troops, in 1775 There is a remarkable rock projecting from the bank, at the head of the cove, a little to the right of which is seen a road running up the hill, at the place where the troops went up, when there was nothing but a footpath. The spot is about a quarter of a mile west of a large yellow house above the bank. Cape Diamond is an abrupt bluff, under the op- posite side of which Quebec is situated. It is 348 feet high, and the fortified lines on its brow be- long to the city walls, and the citadel, which is iur ■■a r» . ^:( - ( %\'\ I 184 QUEBEC. i Mi ! eluded by them. The telegraph is raised on the Cavaliers' Battery, and the round buildings on the ridge are Martello towers, which serve as ad- vanced works to the fortress. The opposite point is Point Levi; and the mountains o(>S^ Anne and Tourmente appear many miles down the river. General Montgomery was killed just at the base of Cape Diamond, in attacking a blockhouse on the shore, in 1775. QUEBEC. The Lower Town of Quebec begins near this spot, and stretches along at the foot of the rock, while the Upper Town soon begins to open to view above, though the principal part of it is on the top and the opposite side. The harbor requires a pier for its protection, on account of the extreme rapidity of the currents caused by the tide, and particularly the ice. The Castle of St, Louis, or the Governor's House, overhangs the precipice, being built on supporters ; interrupting the city wall, which encloses the Upper Town. The nev;*^ Monument to Wolfe and Montcalm is also visible from some points on the river. But the current is too swift to allow much time for observation before arriving at the wharf, where the traveller will find servants in waiting from the principal public houses in the city : these are all in the tipper Town, the ascent to which is intricate as well as steep and laborious, so that the stranger will want their assistance as guides. A book called the *' Picture of Quebec" is re- commended to the traveller. * The Lower Town is crowded and dirty, and contains no decent public houses. After three or 1 on the )s on the e as ad- ;ite point \nne and river. the base house on near this the rock, ) open to jf it is on r requires e extreme tide, and Louis, or I precipice, g the city The nev Iso visible nuch time le wharf, n waiting ity : these which is o that the ides. .»» IS re- [irty, and three or QUEBEC. 185 four turns, you begin to ascend Moimtain-street, to a gate in the city wall, which is very massive,, built in the old European style, of solid stone,, with narrow passaj^e ways for carriages and foot- men, and a guard chamber above, with loop-holes- for musketeers. On the right, after passing this- gate, is a battery of heavy guns. A walk to the Esplanade, in the highest part of the city, by the wall, is very delightful at morning or evening, as it commands a fine view ; but Cape Diamond the finest of all. It is recommended to the stranger to seize the first pleasant days to make excursions to the Falls of Montmorency, the village of Lorette, &.c. which will be more particularly spoken of hereaf- ter ; and to set out as early in the morning as pos- sible. The walls of Quebec enclose the upper part of the hill, and a little of its declivity on the north side ; but the space is so small that the buildings are extremely crowded, and the streets are as closely built as in the largest cities. Very few of the private houses present any thing remarkable, but there are many public buildings worthy of particular attention. Population, in 1825, about 22,000. The French Parish Church stands on one side of the public square, facing the barracks, where is also the seminary. The church contains little that is remarkable, the whole interior appearing rather ordinary, and the pictures having little to boast of: the principal of them are a Holy Family, an As- cension, Crucifixion, Descent of Tongues, and Last m ft 1 ^ !' ( ! >w '. S s u PP en (fl iJ 186 QUEBEC. The CoZ/e^c (founded in 1663,) wliich stands a little to the right in coming out of the church, is a large stone building in which a consith^rable number of youth are educated by priests, and may be distinguished in the city by wearing the long black gown, sash, and cornered cap, common to such institutions in Catholic countries. This build- ing has four sides, three of which arc more than 210 feet long, 40 wide, and 3 stories hifrh ; and the fourth 150 feet long, of 4 stories. The garden wall around it encloses about 7 acres. The pro- fessors reside in the buildinor. The Chapel of the Seminary ^ which stands a lit- tle left from the principal gate, contains the best collection of pictures, it is said, in all Canada : be- ginning on the right hand near the door, is a pic- ture of the Virgin Mary attended by Angels, &c. ; in the first chapel on that side is a picture of the Crucifixion, over the altar; on the right, the Bap- tism of the Etheopian, John's Baptism, St. John ; on the left, a portrait, 8t. Peter receiving the keys, infant Saviour, Devotees, &c. on the church wall, nex*^^ is a good picture unknown, then the Ascen- sion, and Interment of the Saviour ; and over the high altar, a Holy Family, and Dove descending; what appears to be some priest's dream ; on the leftside, is the Descent of Tongues, and an Angel visiting St. Peter in prison, good; over the aliar in the remaining chapel, is the Baptism in the Wil- derness, with a number of poor pictures ; and in the church are an Evangelist, Wise Men present- ing gifts, <&c. In two gilt boxes, one on each side of the high altar, are two skulls, with several human bones, ands a rch, is lor able ul nray le long iTion to sbniUl- re than and the garden 'he pro- uls a lit- the best ada ; be- is a pic- els, &c. ; e of the the Bap- t. John ; Ithe keys, rch wall, le Ascen- over the icending ; ; on the [an Angel the aliar theWil- ; and in prcsent- the high in bones, QUEBEC. 187 placed against red silk, which are regarded with superslilious reverence, as holy and perhaps mi- raculous relics; a lamp is kepi constantly burning under that on the Icl't hand. The Barracks are in a large stone building op- posite the church, which was formerly the Jesuits' College : it is three and four stories high, about 200 feet long. Here are quartered most of the troops which garrison the city ; they have hereto- fore consisted of two regiments of infantry, two companies of artillery, and one of sappers and 4 miners. The Exchange, a new edifice, contains a Reading Room. J Convents. There are two convents in Quebec ; one of them has about 40 Ursulines, who have a large convent and church near the prison, in the west part of the city, and keep a large school for girls. The other convent is lower down, and con- tains an hospital for diseases of the lighter kinds ; while the most serious and severe are treated at the nunnery near the St. Charles's River, about 11 miles above the town. These institutions, however, are not now open to visiters as they for- merly were ; at least it is generally impossible to '' gain access to them. The Parliament House extends from Prescott gate, in Mountain-street, ne.irly 300 feet, of some- what irregular form. It was originally the resi- dence of the Bishop, who now resides in the east end of the Seminary. The House of Assembly occupies a room 35 feet by 65, formerly a chapel; i and near it are the Speaker's room and the Libra- ry, while other apartments are offices, &/C. The Legislative Council occupy the third story. 'li:'! |i '^11 ' m it i \\ 11 II M,.| ff t|!. 'Ki 188 QDEDBC. i3ii il The Public Offices are at tlie corner of Fort- street and the Place (rAriiies. Above in the Mu- seum of the Literary and Historical Society, which is worthy of a visit. It contains some of the original journals of the Britisli House of Conn- mons under Charles 1st, said to have been brought to New-England by Goll'e and Whalley. The Public Warehouse, on the King's Wharf, is 250 feet in length. The Statue of Gen, Wolfe, of wood, is at the corner of Palace and John-streets, and is said to resemble him very strongly. Gen. Montcalm's House is on the battery, towards Palace Gate. The Hotel Dieu is a hospital for the sick poor, under the care of nuns. The grounds, (12 acres,) extend from Couillard st. where is the burying ground, to Palace st. It was founded in 1637, and has liberal funds, but relieves so many, particular- ly emigrants, that the provincial parliament render it assistance. The building for the sick is on the north side, and in it reside the Superior and about .35 nuns. The church may be visited with per- mission of the Chaplain, and contains the follow- ing pictures: the Nativity, by Stella ; Virgin and 'Child, by Coypel ; Vision of Therese ; and Bru- iieau in Meditation. In the Chaplain's room is a picture representing the tortures inflicted on Bre- bceuf an(^ Tallemand, two priests of the Chapel at Three Rivers, who were captured and killed by the Indians. Xhe General Hospital a mile out of the city, on ChaHes River, w^as founded by the Bishop in 1693, It is 230 ft> by 33, with a wing, 120 by 50. It is (|l! CASTLE OF ST. LOUIS. 189 f Fort- the Mu- j^ociety, some of of Corn- brought i Wharf, is at the is said to battery, ick poor, 12 acres,) burying 1637, and articuiar- nt render is on the nd about with per- lie follow- irgin and and Bru- room is a 111 on Bre- Chapel at led by the ie city, on in 1693. iO. It is i under the care of tlie Superior of the convent, and about 45 nuns. There is a separate building for the insane. The church contains some copies of pictures in the city churches. The funds are de- rived from parliamentary appropriations, lands and the labor of the nuns in ornamental work. The Arsenal is near the palace gate, and con- tains about 100,000 stand of arms, arranged with great regularity. The monument to Wolfe and Montcalm, oppo- site, and in front of the Governor's Gardens, bears this inscription: ^^Mortcm inrtus communem ; /a- main historia ; monumentinn poster itas deditJ*^ Schools, — There are in the city the Royal Gram- mar school, the school of Ursuline Nuns, the Na- tional school, that of the Education Society, and the British and Canadian School Society, which is Lancasterian. The Protestant Burying Ground is on Main street, in St. John's Suburbs, J m: from the gate. The Castle of St. Louisj about 160 feet by 45, with wings, makes a less imposing appearance than when seen from the water. The street beyond commands a fine view : and there are several beau- tiful terraced gardens formed on the steep side of the rock, 200 feet high, almost overhanging the buildings in the lower town. It is the residence of the governor of the Province of Lower Canada. The fortifications of the city on the land side are strong, and worthy of particular attention ; as be- fore remarked, they may be examined with inter- est by taking a walk in that direction, in the morn- ing or evening. St Louis's Gate is the highest city gate, and the 16 ■.'\ ■ i T ) . i ': I Jl ^ 190 QUEBEC. street of the same name conducts to it; this leads to the famous Plains of Abraham. The monu- ments to Wolfe and Montcalm will be erected in the Upper Garden. The Esplanade Battery lies between St. Louis and St. John's gates, and contains 12 cannon and 4 mortars, with magazines built where they could not be injured by an enemy's shot. The ground slopes in such a manner as to expose a large extent of country to view ; the fine fertile plain beyond St. Charles's River, the beautiful ridge of lands beyond, with the villages of Lorette, Charlebourg, and others ; the St. Lawrence on the right, with Point Levi, the Isle of Orleans, and the fine ranges of distant mountains. The mouth of the Mont- morency can easily be discerned, on the left bank of the St. Lawrence, about 9 miles from the city ; that is the spot where the falls are to be seen, and the battle ground where Gen. Wolfe made an un- successful attack on the French Gen. Dieskau, be- fore the capture of the city. Mounting to the parapet near the gate of St. Louis, the plan of the defences may be in part dis- cerned, even by an unpractised eye ; and by de- scending and passing through the gate, the strength of the place will be better understood. The walls of the city, the bastions, and other works, are from 20 to 30 feet in height, and formed of stone. The path is made to turn several abrupt angles, in order to expose the approach to raking fires. In coming towards the gate from the country, at the first angle, the stranger is brought to face 8 can- non, placed in two rows, at the second angle 2, and .9t the third 2 ; at the fourth he sees 3 on the right i 0,\ Dil!':'!: THE CITADEL. 191 lis leads monu- cted in t. Louis non and ay could I ground re extent beyond of lands :lebourg, ht, with 16 ranges le Mont- left bank the city ; een, and ^ e an un- skau, be- te of St. part dis- d by de- strenglh 'he walls ^rks, are of stone, ingles, in ires. In ly, at the ;e 8 can- lie 2, and the right and 3 on the left ; and at the fifth finds himself in front of the gate, which has a gun on its top. The gate is of very heavy and durable masonry, and the passage through it is a dark arclied way, about 65 feet long; it is closed by two heavy doors, with wickets so placed as not to face each other. Near the Hospital is part of the old French wall, about 50 feet high, which contains geutlCiHen's gar- dens. The Citadel, on Cape Diamond, is designed for a place of im- pregnable strength. It has been gradually pro* gressing fcr a number of years. Admission may be usually obtained by application to the proper officers. The British government intended to de- vote 5000Z. per annum on these works. Most of the works are new, though some parts of the old have been made to serve. They include five or six acres, on the very summit of Cape Di- amond, and extend to the verge of the precipice, 348 feet above the St. Lawrence. There are to be four bastions and one demi-bastion, a ravelin, in advance of the western bastion, and other out- works, and the whole will enclose 40 or 50 acres. The walls are about 40 feet high, and built perpen- dicularly, of fine he »vn stone ; the ditch being blast- ed out of the solid rock, and about 50 feet wide. The CasL .nates. Entering the gates and passing behind the wall, a continued line of large rooms is discovered following the wall, built of substantial brick work, and bomb-proof. These Casemates are about 50 feet long, 20 wide, and 16 or 18 high, each to be lighted by a door and two small win- dows, looking inward, and pierced at the other side, m ■ :' ' ' ■l , f- - - ? 4 '-' vi ; ; 4 iffll ii' .^: If^'^ I ii m 192 QUEBEC. with five loop holes each, for musketry. These loop holes are on the new plan, narrow inside, and opening with steps faced with iron, to prevent mus- ket shot from glancing in. There are to be about 40 casemates towards the land side, the natural defence of the precipice over the water being suf- ficiently strong to prevent the attem])ts of an ene- my in that direction. The casemates will commu- nicate with each other by folding doors, which maybe thrown open the whole length of the bomb- proofs, and will then furnish space for the whole garrison (from 3000 to 5000 men) to parade at once. The Subterranean Passage leads from a little staircase in the bastion next east of the gate, under the ditch, to a small out-work with two or three casemated rooms. The stairs are so narrow as to admit only one person at a time, and are construct- ed in a spiral form, and in the neatest manner. The passage, which is about 130 feet long, has also two branches where guards might be placed to prevent intrusion. The cooking rooms, for part of the garrison, are near the second bastion ; and over the whole are to be mounted large cannon. Brock^s Battery-, a w(»rk of wood and earth, raised during the late war with the United States, is to be partly retained and converted into a Cav- alier's Battery. This, as well as the magazines, barracks, officer's quarters, &c. is within the works ; and at the corner next the river and town, is the old Cavalier's Battery, a very heavy stone building, originally erected for the palace of the French governors of Quebec : below it, at the water's edge, Gen. Montgomery was killed. It r brock's battery. 193 These 3e, und it mus- 3 about natural ing suf- an ene- jommu- which B bomb- e whole irade at a little e, under )r three row as to onstruct- manner. 11 g, has placed I, for part on ; and annon. d earth, d States, o a Cav- gazines, thin the nd town, vy stone ce of the , at the illed. It has dark vaults, the walls are six feet thick, near the ground, and from the Telegraph on the top is one of the finest views that can be imagined : the broad surface of the St. Lawrence lies below, and stretches off far to the right and left; the whole city of Quebec is crowded together almost beneath you, while Point Levi, with its white buildings, is seen opposite, with a long stretch of lofly shores. Turning the eye in the opposite direction, the beautiful ridge of land, which begins many miles down the river on the northern side, and rises with a gentle swell t>om the shore, covered with the richest and most varied display of cultivation, offers a most delightful view over an extensive and fertile region, beautiful in form, divided into innu- merable portions, cultivated by a dense and indus- trious population, and scattered with their cluster- ed dwellings. On the left appears, among other villages, that of Lorette, with the Montreal road for nine miles almost lined with houses ; and on the right that of Beaufort, occupying the ridge of the high ground, while a little beyond it is the chasm into which the River Montmorency plunges, with its famous cataract, just before it joins the St. Lawrence. All the horizon in that direction, and indeed from the west to the north, and quite to the east, is broken by ranges of fine mountains, some of them near and bold ; and in other places, be- tween them, distant blue ridges are disclosed, three, four, or five in succession. Tsononthuan Moun- tain, which has two summits and is 2000 feet high in the north-west, is the southern extreme of the granite range reaching from the Labrador coast to Lake Superior. In the south and south-west, 16* •t^ I H- .1. j f i *^ ' ill f ■If m m m'' § Is''- aii ' li II; 11 i '|i' ,'iir I: » 194 QVEDEO. where an aperture is left, is a distant and lower range, scattered with cottages. It may, perhaps, not he hazarding too much to say, that no scene in Canada, or the United States, can bo?\st of a combination of objects comparable in variety and magnificence to those here presented to view. Cape Diamond derives its name from the beau- tiful little rock-crystals, which are found in veins of white crystalized limestone, disseminated in the black limestone blasted out for the works. The quartz stones used in the walls are very fine, and are brought from three miles above the city. Of those prepared for corner stones of a bastion, near the old governor's house, are homogeneous mass- es of granular quartz, weighing 1 J or two tons, or even more. Some of the crystals are perfect and brilliant, though small. There is a long staircase of about 600 steps, leading from this elevated position down to the Lower Town, and an inclined plane, about 500 ft. long, to raise heavy articles. The Plains op Abraham. This interesting tract of ground, the field where Gen. Wolfe succeeded, by a bold and decisive blow, in capturing the city of Quebec in 1759, lies at only about the aistance of a mile, and should not be neglected. Indeed it would be found am- ply to repay the trouble, to make a much longer excursion in that direction, as the road is fine and the country interesting.* ♦ After the battle of Montmorency, while the FiUjrlish fleet lay up the river, at one o'clock in the nii,'ht of September 12th, ' 759. Gen. Wolfe Quietly transported liis troops from the fleet into tlie boats, and cautiously assed down the river. He intended to land two or three miles above Cape Diamond, aad got possession of the Heiglits of Abraham : but wm ■;il!l lower rhaps, I scene ,t of a ;ty and BW. e bcau- n veins [I in the 5. The ne, and ity. Of :)n, near IS mass- tons, or feet and O steps, n to the jt 500 ft. Id where decisive 759, lies should und am- i longer fine and kt lay up the Gen. Wolfe jid cautiously [inilcs above lam •. but wa« THE PLAlNH OF AliRAHAM. 195 Passing out at St. Louis's Gate, you observe a number of liandsome tlwellinjrs and oardcns, until you get some (listaiicu bciyuiid the lowers, wlien you turn into the llacc Course on the kH't side of the road. The found:ition of a monument to Wolfe and Montcalm was iiiid in the city in 1827. The spot wliere Gen. Wolfe fell is near the corner of the fenced field, ofl" towards the river. A little east of the place, is the remnant of a breastwork, with several angles, marked out by bushes, and commanding a fine view. The British line was first formed across the plain, aiui ran near the house by the road, and the batti* aas fought prin- cipally on that ground. The Plains of Abiaham are about a quarter of a mile in breadth, extending a great distance to- wards the west, with a gentle slope on each side, and so smooth as to offer an admirable field for the manoBuvreing and display of troops. From the old breastwork, not only this ground is over- drifted down so rapidly that he passed the place without discovering it, and then resolved to attcm])t alaji(liii<,' at VV'oIfo\s Cove, just ahove the city. The shore is bold, and the rocks .lish frigate Lizard and several other vessels were also in tlie river. He at length, however, cllected a landing a little above Wolfe's Cove, and marching down the shore climbed up the rocks at that place, and surrounded the city without eflect. He then retired 20 miles to Point aux Trembles, and wait- ed for Gen. Montgomery, who arrived, after great trials, Dec. 1st, with about 300 men. The two generals afterward marched to Quebec, and planting their mortars on the snow and ice, fired into the town with little effect. The small pox broke out, and the cold was severe ; but the town was attacked at four points at once, in a snow storm, without success. Montgomery was killed, on the shoie, about 100 yards from the foot of the railway, under Cape Diamond. One de- tachment was taken, and Arnold retired three miles and intrenched himself. The Falls of Montmorency. Hire a coach, a gig, a caleche or a saddle horse, and set out, if possible, early in the morning. In a caleche, yoii will have the advantage of a guide in your driver. Pass through the Palace gate and a village divid- ed from Quebec only by the wall, cross the bridge over St. Charles's River, which forms a regular serpentine, and enter the beautiful cultivated plain beyond. A Convent and hospital are seen about a mile on the left, and a handsome succession of fields is observed on both sides, divided by low pa- lings. At the distance of a mile and a half the road passes several country houses. ; >< irt: K ' 1 >il i 198 QUEBEiT?. Riding down the coast, at a considerable eleva- tion from the river, many fine views are presented of the opposite banks, the isle of Orleans, the mountains of St. Anne and Tourmente down the river. The dwellings are small, and the inhabi- tants poor and numerous. The channel south of the isle of Orleans is the only one used by ships for some years past, but the northern has been surveyed recently. The latter is that by which Admiral Saguenay's fleet came up with Wolfe's army. Beaufort is a village principally composed of such buildings, stretching for a great distance a- long the road. On approaching the Montmorency, the road turns to the left, and then to the right, on an extensive, smooth, and gradual ascent, part of which was the field of a bloody slaughter, suffered by a division of Gen. Wolfe's army, in 1759, a short time pre- vious to his battle on the Heights of Abraham. The position of the armies will be more easily un- derstood on reaching the opposite side of the river; it is therefore sufficient to remark here, that the French lines were bounded by the nearer bank, as the remains of their intrenchments on the left still testify ; and that the British came up from the shore of the St. Lawrence on the right, to attack two of their nearest batteries, before the second of which they were cut to pieces. Dismounting in a little wood and fastening the horses, you may proceed along the precipitous bank of the Montmorency, by a footpath, to see the falls from this side. As it is a difficult way, and the view more fine and unobstructed from the FALLS OF MONTMORENCV, 199 eleva- te n ted }, the rn the nhabi- ith of ' ships 5 been which Volfe's osed of ance a- id turns tensive, was the jivision e pre- raham. sily un- e river; that the ank, as eft still lorn the attack second ling the jipitous to see It way, :om the I opposite side, it is hardly worth the trouble, un- less you have plenty of time. You have to clam- ber rocks, pass down a long ladder, and stand on the verge of an abyss into which the cataract dashes. Water is drawn off here in a wooden race, for the supply of Mr. Patterson's great saw-mills, which are worthy of being visited. It is better, therefore, to follow the road on foot, to cross the bridge (where you pay a sous,) and entering the fields on the right, follow down the course of the river. There are several fine points of view, from which the falls appear to great ad- vantage ; but on account of the height and steep- ness of the banks, it is necessary to descend to- wards the St. Lawrence, and then return by the margin, to obtain a sight of them from below. On the fine elevated point formed by the junc- tion of the two rivers, and commanding an unob- structed view upon the St. Lawrence for many miles up and down, with several lofty mountains below, the isle of Orleans opposite, Quebec above, and the cataract close at hand, the British here took a strong position in July, 1759 ; and from this place made a bold, butunsuccessful attempt against their enemies on the opposite side. The remains of their intrenchments are plainly visible under our feet. The natural and artificial strength of the city combined, w^as enough, even in those days, to discourage any attempt against it from the water; and in order to prevent an approach by land, the French occupied two strong positions at a distance above and below it: the former at Sillery River, the other at the Montmorency. Wolfe here made a first, but unsuccessful attempt ; and afterward, by '>'" U.-\ ■'. t nl 200 QUEBFX'. a still more desperate blow, accomplished his wish- es at tlie Plains of Abraham. For an account of the battle of Montmorency, we refer to the note.* The best view of the cataract is to be enjoyed from the spur of the rock, which projects from the eastern shore ; but the spray, which keeps the sur- face covered with a coat of green, will drench the clothes in a few minutes. The height of the fall is said to be 240 feet ; and the banks on both sides below form a precipitous and frightful precipice, of rather a curving form, of bare, sharp, slaty rock, whose strata incline from north to south, and the perpendicular veins run nearly N. \V. and S. E. At low water the Mont- morency maybe forded, with some caution, where it was passed by the British troops ; but the tide rises fast and high. * Battle of Montmorency. When Oeri. Wolfo came to operate against Quebec in June, 1759, he posted Ills army on the island of Orleans while the fleet blockaded the port. At the end of that month General Monckton was sent over to Point Levi, and cstablLshed himself there, whence he was able to fire upon the city. Above the river Montmorency, the landing was pro- tected by the Marquis de Montcalm. Gen. Wolfe landed his troops at the nioutii of the Montmorency during the nigiit of July 'Jlst, and ereosite bank : and on the 31st of July, Gen. Wolfe sent his troops to ford the Mont- morency below the falls, to storm their works. Som»^ of Gen. Monckton's force from Point Levi in crossing with boats got aground, and difficulty ensued ; but the landing was made in the afternoon on the beach to the right of the saw-mills. (TJie navigator, Capt. Cook, piloted these boats ) They came however, too late : for the thirteen grenadier companies, with 200 Americans, who had landed before, refused to wait or to form, as had been intended, in four columns, but marched tumultuously round the rock, and rushed up hill in a mass towards the French works, at some distance back from the old redoubt on the point, which had been deserted. A warm fire however was directed against them, which cut down about 500 men, and they were obliged to retreat to the redoubt, whence they were ordered back to the beach to form. The enterprise was then interrupted by a severe storm, and finally abandoned. ROUTE FROM QUEBEC TO BOSTON. 201 is wish- ount of 3 note.* enjoyed rom the the sur- jnch the ;et; and pxipitous form, of ine from /eins run he Mont- >n, where ; the tide June, 1759, he [lockaded the sent over to ts able to fire ling was pro- his troops at ft, and eretted [ains of which lp|)Osite bank : [rd the Mont- h. Monckton's and difficulty beach to the A these boats ) ^panics, with k form, as had [und the rock, some distance deserted. A. )wn about 500 ice they were m interrupted The Village of Lorette may be taken in the way returning from Montniorrncy, if there should be time enough remaining (which is barely possible,) and the rit'.e along the high ridge lead- ing in that direction, will be found delightful. Lo- rette is an Indian village, with a Cathdic church, and the stranger may furnish himself with mocca- sins, belts, pipes, 6lc, Route from Quebec to Boston. It is proposed, by the slate of Maine, to open a road from Hal- lowell up the course of the Kennrbeck river, to the Cnnada line near Quebec. There is a com- munication kept up to some extent between the two places, and considerable numbers of cattle are driven every year that way ; but for a great distance it is necessary to pass through a wilder- ness, and in consequence of the want of inhabi- tants, there is no shelter to be found for man or beast, for several days' journeys. The names and distances of the principal places on this wild and unfrequented route, are given below. When the proposed road shall have been opened, it will be found a convenient way to New-England, for those who do not wish to return by Montreal, and will become peopled and frequently travelled. This is the route by which Gen. Arnold approach- ed Quebec in 1775. Quebec to the Chaudiere, or Riviere du Loup .... Moose River . . , . Forks of the Kennebcck Upper settlement on do. Hallowell ..... Boston ...... 17 60 miles. 37 97 24 121 12 133 67 200 170 370 1 1 I '"' i II Ill \"-i\- MM' I i B' !i il \i ^ Ml if- ' 202 ROUTES FROM QUEBEC. Another route along the Penobscot is also to be surveyed by the authority of the state of Maine. Land route from Quebec to Montreal, Upper roadk (The ph-asanter.) 1st post Lorette, 16 miles; 2d. Jacques Cartier, 16; 3d. Descham- beaux, 16; 4th. St. Anne, 1(3; 5th. Batiscamp, 8; ()th. Channplain, 9 ; 7tli. Aux Cayes, 8 ; 8th. Trois Rivieres, 6. Lower road. 1st. post, Cape Rouge, 9 miles; 2d. St. Augustine, 9 ; 3d. Point aux Trembles, 8; 4th. Ecureil, 9 ; 5th. Cape Sante, 9, (Garneau'd inn, called "^Ae Three Sisters,^' is excellent.)^ 6th. Deschambeaux, &c. 8. Under the administration of Gov, Craig, in Canada, a road was opened between this province and the present territory of Maine; and the in- habitants of the states continuing it, a stage coach actually ran from Quebec to Boston, which is 270 miles distant. It was afterward neglected; and the road became so much overgrown, that it would require clearing again to be useful. Route from Quebec to Montreal. Leaving the dock, you pass under Cape Dia- mond, nearly at the foot of which General Mont- gomery was killed in 1775. Wolfe's Cove is about a mile beyond. See page 196. For the other places along the St. Lawrence, see the map, and the notices of them in the route from Montreal to Quebec. Chambly, 15 m. from Montreal, is a small vil- lage. Near the middle of it stands the old fort, on a point, surrounded by a ditch. It is an old square building, perhaps 180 feet on each side. I Iso to be Maine. Upper rette, 16 )escham- camp, 8; ;ih. Trois , 9 miles ; mbles, 8 ; jarneau'd Craig, in 3 province id the in- lage coach liich is 270 jcted; and at it would lEAL. :ape Dia- ral Mont- See page Lawrence, h the route small vil- le old fort, is an old ?ach side, PA8SA0K UP LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 203 with bastions at the corners, but incapable of with- standing heavy cannon. This fort was taken by Majors Brown and Livingston, in 1765, who were sent out with a strong detachment by Gen. Mont- gomery, while he was besieging St. John's. The garrison, being very feehle, surrendered. Passage from St. John's to Whitehall. St. John's. Isle aux Noix, 10 miles; Rouse's Point, II; Chazy, 12; Plattsburgh, 15; Port Kent, 8; Burlington, 10; Charlotte, Essex, 15; Port€linton, 10; Dalliba's Works, Port Henry, 0; Chimney Point, 12; Ticonderoga, 15; White- hall, 25. For the principal places on the lake, see the Index. At the time when Gen. St, Clair evacuated Ti- conderoga, in 1777, the following arrangements were made for retreat. The baggage, hospital furniture, sick, park of artillery, stores, and pro- visions, embarked under Colonel Long, under strong convoy, in 200 batteaux and five armed gal- leys. The main army went via Castleton, with St. Clair at the head and Col. Francis in the rear, and the general rendezvous was at Skeenesborough (Whitehall.) A house which took fire on Mount Independence attracted the attention of the Brit- ish, who soon began the pursuit. Gen. Frazer, with grenadiers and light troops, with Reidesel behind him, followed by land ; while Burgoyne cut through the boom and bridge, and sailed up Wood Creek. His gun-boats and ships overtook the American flotilla, took two galleys, blew up three, and the Americans set fire to the rest and fled Qn to Fort Annei m I Mi 'M •I :,ii li ,11 . 1 ill 1 h J 1 204 ROUTE FROM CANADA. ^ On leaving Ticonderoga, the lake soon becomesJ much narrower. At about nine miles distance, the Scotch Farms are seen on the western shore. They are in the township of Putnam, and present an aspect less wild than most of the surrounding scenes. Looking back on Ticonderoga from this place, Mount Defiance appears at about nine miles dis- tance. It descends on the left to the Scotch Farms, which are pri icipally cleared land, and is a good Idndmark. Beyond it is another mountaia sloping like it. Ticonderoga here appears to close up the passage of the lake, with Sword's Point on the left. The Four Channels. Fourteen miles from Whitehall, the lake suddenly contracts itself into four narrow passages, between two ranges of mountains, and its bed, at low water, appears al- most entirely occupied by a little meadow of the brightest green, through which the channels wind with beautiful serpentines. The rocky points on both sides se*\n os if forcibly parted by an earth- quake. Some distance beyond, where the creek enters a small tract of level ground, it passes between two remarkable rocks, with precipitous banks like walls, about 50 feet high, like great natural bas- tions erected to guard the straits. South Bay opens to the south, five miles be- tween high mountains. Here the creek takes a sudden turn to the east, communicating with the bay by a little channel sometimes scarcely 20 yards across. General Dieskau took this route with his army, in going towards Fort Edward, in 1755. WHITEHALL. becomeai jistance, n shore, present ounding is place, liles dis- Scotch 1, and is iiountaia :)ears to Sword's les from self into mges of pears al- V of the els wind oints on n earth- k enters between: nks like ral bas- liles be- takes a i^ith the 20 yards with hia 755. ^05 Oi Deer are sometimes seen here in passing the eastern side of the bay, on the mountain, is a natural ice^'house about four miles off. The DeviVs Pulpit is a singular cavity in the face of a bare precipice on the eastern side of the creek, at a considerable elevation, in the form of a wedge, and so regular as to seem a work of art, although probably made by the falling of a mass of the rock. Distant mountains open to the view in front, as we proceed. The Elbow is a narrow part of the creek, with two short turns, through which the passage re- quires a very exact helm. East Bay strikes off at the first bend, and makes Up five miles, along a romantic country. A su- gar-loaf hill will be observed at a little distance on the right, which rises above Whitehall, and makes the approach to that place quite pictur- esque. WHITEHALL. On the top of a rock over the harbor was formerly a battery, and in the town a blockhouse. Numerous boats and great quantities of lumber are usually seen here, as the Chan plain or Northern canal begins at the bridge, where are two locks, with a sluiceway, and a rocky channel. The heights at this place were occupied by Bur- goyne's right wing, while he was preparing to march towards Saratoga ; his centre was formed by Gen. Frazer ; the Brunswickers, on the left, rested on the river of Caslleton ; and the Hes- sians were at the head of East Bay. Roads. — Stage coaches go south, on the arrival 17* H 306 nOUTE FROM CANADA. m t\ HI '■W|| of the steamboat in two directions : one on each side of Wood Check and the ilndson river. That on the west side is reeonunended to those who are goint CA?iADA* il s About half a mile above Fort Edward, stands an old tree, which marks the place where was perpetrated the Murdek of Miss M*Creaj of* Fort Edward. In the Revolutionary war, a young man named Jones, to whom she was betrothed, was invested with a captain's command in Gen, Burgoyne's army. After the retreat of the Amer- icans from the lake, he sent a party of Indians to Fort Edward to bring his intended bride to him. She was very unwilling to proceed with her savage conductors on the road towards Fort / nne ; and had gone only half a mile when the Indians stop- ped to drink at a spring which still flows by the way side. While here they were met by another party of Indians despatched to hasten them on. Those who came last attempted to take her under their charge : but the others, being determined not to give her up alive, bound her to a tree and shot her dead with their muskets. Locks of her hair were borne to her lover to prove that the In- dians had performed what they considered their dtity to their employer. This story rang through the country; and it was reported that Gen. Buigoyne encouraged, or, at least, permitted the murder. In indignant terms he denied the charge; and there appears no pro- bability that he had the least knowledge of it. He, however, was justly chargeable with a great offence against humanity, in bringing tribes of savages in his train, whose barbarity he could nev- er be sure of restraining. Fort Edward. This village is in the neighbor- hood of a fort raised during the war of 1755, for the defence of this point of the river. It was first stands re was EAj of* young rothed, n Gen. Amer- lians to to him* r savage rie; and ns stop- s by the another hem on. fr under ermined tree and of her t the In- ed their ; and it iged, or, int terms no pro- [e of it. a great Iribes of iuld nev- 'ighbor- 755, for as first } miller's falls. 209 called Fort Lyman, after General Lyman, of whom We have already had occasion to make honorable mention at Lake George. This spot was formerly called the First Carrying Place, being the point where, in the expeditions against Canada, the troops, stores, &c., were landed and taken to Wood Creek, a distance of 12 miles, where they were again embarked. Baker's Falls, at Sandy Hill, are worthy of particular attention, and are seen to great advan- tage from some parts of the bank. The whole descent of the river at this place is about 75 feet. Fort Miller. The village still retains the name o. a fort erected on the west side of the ri- ver, in former times. It was a work of insignifi- cant size, situated on the bank, and near Miller's Falls. The descent of the river here is rapid, and over a broken channel. The falls were formerly considered impassable with safety, until Gen. Putnam performed the descent, while stationed at Fort Miller, in the French war. The Great Dam. Above Fort Edward, a large and expensive dam, 900 feet long, has been built across the river, and a canal cut along the bank jto open a passage for boats. ■n,t n^l m H r 210 NEW-YORK TO NEW-ENGLAND. ^ TOUR OF NEW-ENGLAND. To Travellers going Eastward from New- York* It is recommended to the stranger who is travel- ling eastward to s&e the country, to determine on some plan for his journey before setting out. A stage coach* goes every morning to Connecticut, and onward ; but this is not the most agreeable route. Steamboats go from New-York to the fol- lowing places on the northern shore of Long Island * The coach setts off for Nevy-Haven every morning at 8 o'clock, from the stage office, in Courtlandt-strect, passing through Harioem on Manhat- tan Island, West Chester, East Chester, New-Rochelle, Mamaronec, and Rye, in the state of New-Vork; and Greenwich, Stamford, Diu-ien, Norwalk, Fairfield, Bridgeport, Stratford, Milford, and Orange, in Con- necticut. In Harlaem, the road passes near the East river, and gives a view of Hell Gate. Beyond Morrissania, the estate and mansion of the late Hon- Governor Morris is seen on the right: one of the finest for tastefulness and extent in this part of the country. (See ftattle of White Platns. page 18.) In the town of Horsnneck, 33 miles from New-York, is a steep hill de- scending towards the north, down which Gen Putnam once effected his escape from several British officers and soldiers during the revolutionary war, when returning from a scout. He drove his horse hastily down the rocky hill side, a little east of the road, and near the fence, and saved so much distance as to elude his pursuers. In the town of Fairfield, 53 miles from New-York, a mile or two before reaching the village, is a low, level piece of ground, on the right hand side of the road, which was formerly an almost impenetrable swamp, and, at an early period of our history, was the scene of a bloody slaughter. It was hither that the remains of a powerful and terrible nation of Indians, called Pequods, having fled from their country about New-London and Groton, after the destruciion of their fort at Mystic by Capt. Mason, in 163C, were either killed or taken captive. This was their last and total defeat, and extinguished their name as a nation. Much of the ground has been cleared In modern times ; and some relics have been found to con-> firm tlie traditions of the neighborhood i)n the east sidp of Housatonnuc, or Stratford river, a mile or more Above the bridge, was oncf n fort, built by the Indians of the place, to se- cure themselves against the Mohawks, who had subjugated most of tho country on the western side of the Connecticut river, before the arrival of (he English. EAST RIVER^ 211 - York. travel- line on ut. A scticut, peeable the fol- Island lock, from •a Manhat- ronec, and 1, Darien, e, in Con- aview of . Governor md extent 18.) ep hill de- ected his olutionary down the saved so wo before ght hand k^arap, and, ghter. It )f Indians, )ndon and Mason, in and total ground has nd to con-i e 01 more ace, to se- tost of tho arrival of Sound : Norwalk, Stamford, Stratford, New- Ha- ven, Connecticut river, (and up that to Hartford,) New-London (and Norwich,) Newport (and Pro- vidence.) East River. Leaving New-York, in any of the East river steamboats, the traveller has Brook- lyn on the right, (now with a population of about 16,000, and strictly a suburb of the capital.) The Navy Yard, just beyond. The Marine Railway is above, on the west side. The old Penitentiary and Fever Hospital are just above, on the shore. BlackwelVs Island, The Penitentiary consists of two large edifices of similar size. The southern, for males, is about 1000 feet from the south end of the island, and about 20 feet above high water mark, 200 feet in length by 50 in breadth, with 240 cells, each 3J feet by 7, and separated by a partition 2^ feet thick. Opposite each cell there is an aper- ture in the outer wall, for fresh air. The interior is on the plan of the State Prison at Singsing, ex- cept that the gallery around the cells is of iron in- stead of wood, the ascent to which is by a geome- trical staircase. The doors to the cells are all of iron — indeed, the only wood is in the roof, which may even be burned off without danger to the rest of the building. The stone is the common gneiss, and was all quarried on the island and hewed by the convicts. The lime was burned on the island. Four centinels are placed on elevated platforms in different parts of the island, who are allowed no intercourse either by word or sign with the pri- soners. The prisoners are marched rank and file to their meals. No spirituous liquor is allowed to :M« I' i -i '■-\t '5 m 212 NEW-MAVEN. be brought upon the island. Four excellent springs of water afford them drink. The island is 1^ miles in length, and about 600 feet in width, and will yield abundance of vegeta- bles. It is the design of the Corporation to make it the seat of punishment in all its forms. At Hell Gate, numerous objects present them- selves on entering the bay. On the distant high ground, west, is seen the Lunatic Asylum ; a white blockhouse on the hill on the east side; below it, an old fort by the water ; and a number of hand- some country houses along the green shore on the left. The first of these is Commodore Chauncey's, next, Mr. Schermerhorn's, then Messrs. Prime's, Astor's, &c. The surface of the river is broken by several rocks, and by the agitation of the wa- ter, particularly at the whirl called the Great Pot, a little north of the fort, and the rapid current on the opposite shore, known by the name of the Hog's Back. In coming from the north, almost the first view of New-York is here presented, be- tween the western shore and Blackwell's Island, with a shot tower on the right. New-Haven. Tontine Hotel, Franklin Hotel. Several pri- vate boarding houses. This is decidedly one of the most beautiful towns in the United States. The soil is not very good, and the situation is low; the city is laid out in squares, with straight and broad streets, and the elevated ground in the neighbor- hood renders the approach very fine from almost every direction. It stands at the head of a spa- cious bay, with a lighthouse on the eastern point, a small fort on the shore, another on Prospect t springs )out 600 vegeta- to make it th em- ant high ; a white below it, of hand- re on the iiincey's. Prime's, 3 broken the wa- reat Pot, ^rrent on e of the , almost nted, be- Island, era] pri- ■f one of es. The ow; the d broad ighbor- almost a spa- n point, rospect NE\r-HAVEN. 213 Hill, and two bluffs, called East and West Rocks, 2 or 3 miles behind the town. A more distant peak is seen between them, which is Mount Car- mel. The long wharf is three quarters of a mile in length. The steamboats stop at the bridge, where carriages will be found in waiting to take travellers to the centre of the town, which is more than a mile distant. Near the bridge, is the large steamboat hotel, and on the right, Mr. J. Brewster's large coach man- ufactory. The building has a tasteful front, and contains also blacksmith's shops, a chapel, &c. A little beyond is the square of the New Township, with one or two female boarding schools. The streets of the city are regular and pleasant, forming squares, one of which is a green sur- rounded by rows of elms, with three churches and the new State House in the middle, and the Col- lege buildings occupying the western side, pre- senting a scene probably not equalled by any town of this size in the United States. The abundance of fine trees, the neatness and beauty of the dwell- ings, the good society of the place, and the distin- guished position it holds as a seat of learning, ren- der New-Haven the resort of a great number of strangers during the travelling season, and the temporary residence of not a few. Connecticut has a School Fund of $1,902,057, the largest in the Union, but its influence is thought to be unfavorable to education, by rendering indi- vidual contributions unnecessary. The income is all paid for instruction. It yielded in 1832 above $•81,939, that is, 95 cts. for each child between 4 and 16, or 28 cts. for each inhabitant. The taxes 18 :.f 1 '!l;^^ . I '< • il 214 YALE COLLEGE. W I for the support of the government are only 6 cts. 3 mills each. There arc nine academies, besides several unincorporated. There is a Hopkins's Gramma School in the town, and ten Boarding Schoolb ior young la- dies, with instructcrs in every branch of useful and ornamental education. A flourishing Lancaste- rian School in this place contains about 200 boys. The Connecticut General Hospital is a fine stuccoed building, half a mile south of the city, and contains well aired wards, a lecture room above, &c. &c, Yale College, This institution is the principal object which will attract the attention of the stran- ger. It was founded in 1701, and first located at Killingworth, then removed to Saybrook, and af- ter a [e\v years permanently fixed in this town. The first building was of wood, and stood near the corner of College and Chapel-streets. The ex- pense of tuition, room, &-c. for a year, is about $50 — of board in Commons, about ^75. There are now four buildings for students, each contain- ing 32 rooms ; a Chapel, with a Philosophical chamber and apparatus, an Observatory and a Ly- ceum, with recitation rooms and the library. In the rear are the Picture Gallery, (containing some of the valuable paintings of Col. Trumbull, and others, and the Commons Hall, in a small build- ing with the splendid Mineralogical Cabinet above, which is the finest collection of the kind in the United States, lately purchased from Col. Gibbs, of New-York. In another building is the Chemi- cal Laboratory, where Professor Silliman delivers his lectures. The institution contained, in 1833, M \^<^ THE FARMINGTOX CANAL. 215 y 6 cts. besides in the Ling la- eful and incaste' )0 boys. i a fine he city, re room ►rincipal le stran- cated at , and af- is town, near the rhe ex- s about There contain- so phical id a Ly- iry. In ig some ull, and build- t above, I in the Gibbs, Chemi- delivers In 1833, 1 496 students, distributed as follows : — Theologi- cal Students, 49; Law Students, '^1 ; Medical Stu- dents, 61; Resident Graduates, 6; Seniors, 71; Juniors, 87; Sophomores, 95; Freshmen, 106. An Observatory, on one of the steeples, is after the model of the Tower of the Winds at Athens. Next north of the College is the house of Presi- dent Day, and the professors have pleasant resi- dences in the town. The Medical Institution is at the north end of College-street. Like many other buildings in the place, it is of rough stone, covered with plaster. The canal passe? just in the rear. The New Burying Ground is situated opposite the Medical Institution, and occupies a large ex- tent of land, partly planted with poplars, and con- taining a great number of beautiful ornaments, of different designs. It is considered the most beau- tiful cemetry in this countiy. The Old Burying Ground was in the middle of the green, in the rear of the Centre Church, and there are to be seen two ancient stone monuments, of a small size, which are supposed to mark the graves of two of the regicide judges, Whally and Dixwell, although there is much doubt on the sub- ject. (See Stiles's Judges.) A General Hospital Society for the state of Con- necticut was founded in 1828; and the building is of stuccoed stone, about a mile south of the city. The New-Haven and Farmington Canal, extends to the Massachusetts line in Simsbury, where it is met by the Hampshire and Hampden Canal, which strikes Connecticut River at North ^mpton. ill • T-fl \l * 216 ROUTE IN CONNECTICUT. The basin, near ihe market, is large and commo- dious ; and the canal, passing through a part of the city, and bending round along the outskirts, on the north side, intersects several streets, by which it is crossed on handsome bridges. The first part of the canal passes through an easy and natural channel, where is little variation in the surface ; and introduces us to the beautiful and fertile meadows at Farmington. The upper part, and the Hampshire and Hampden canal, re- quired much lockage. There are pleasant rides in various directions from New-Haven, the roads being numerous, and the face of the country favorable. The two mountains command extensive views, and though the access is rather fatiguing, the excursion is recommended to those who are fond of such en- terprises. The Judge's Cave is on the summit of West Rock, about a mile north of the bluff: and the way to it leads near Beaver Pond, and Pine Rock, then between Pine and West Rocks. You here turn off the road to the left, by a path across a brook; and a guide may usually be obtained at a jsmall house just beyond, who can show a horse path to the summit. The cave is formed by the crevices between seven large rocks, apparently thrown together by some convulsion. It is small and entirely above ground, with a rude rock, like a column on each hand. That on the right bears this inscription, — ** Opposition to tyrants is obedience to God,*' to remind the visiter that the place once afforded Road to middlktown. 217 ommo- t of the rts, on which ugh an iriation eautiful I upper inal, re- reclions lus, and he two though •sion is uch en- f West and the Rock, )u here icross a led at a a horse )etween ther by f above m each tion, — ^od," ifforded fiheher to GofTc and Whally, two of the judges of I kintr Charles the First, wl il< ig ^^iiiirifs inc I'lrsi, wlio escaped lo tlie colo- nies and secreted thcnisclvcy for some lime in this solitary place. They were supplied with food by a family which resided near the foot of ihe moun- tain, and a little boy was desj)alchcd for them every day, wno left a basket of provisions on a rock, without knowing what cause he was subser- ving. The [)lace commands an extensive view upon the country below, with a large tract of Long Island, and the Sound. The Manufactory of Muskets is two miles north of New-Haven, on the road to Hartford, by Meri- den, and at the foot of East liock. It was estab- lished by Mr. Whitney, the well-known inventor of the Cotton Gin. The machinery is carried by the water of a small river, and the houses of the overseers and workmen make a pretty appear- ance on the shore. Muskets are made here in all their parts, many of them for the arsenals of the United States. It is designed to make the arms so much alike, that the parts may be applied in- differently to all that proceed from the same man- ufactory. It is not found possible however, to accomplish this object to the full extent desired. Road from New-Haven to Middletown — Northford 10 miles, Durham 8, Middletown 6. Beyond New-Haven in Long Island Sound, lies a cluster of islands, called the Thi^n.bles, famous in the traditions of the neighboring Connecticut coast, as the ancient resort of Capt. Kidd, a nota- ble pirate, whose treasures of solid gold, it is still believed by some, are concealed somewhere here- abouts. Within this labyrinth of islands is a little 18* H I IP m I i I; ' i ■ ; I IN - i t ,1 t ,i' i- 'rmidable ins twice outh and itive soil, ) pay 200 their sq- \ ciety. But the undertaking was considered too hazardous, and it was not until the year 1635, when the Dutch at New-York showed a determination to seize upon the country, that a small detachment of men was sent from Boston by water to prepare for opening a trade with the Indians, and to build a fort at the mouth of the river. Immediately after their landing, a Dutch vessel entered, and proceeding up to Hartford, established themselves in a fort they called Good Hope, on a spot they obtained from Pequod usurpers. The settlement of Saybrook was begun under a grant made to Lord Say and Seal, Lord Brook, and others, by George Fenwick, Esq. who fled to this country with his family. The old fort stood near the present fort hill, upon an eminence which has since been destroyed by the waves; and the ground immediately behind it was afterward occu- pied by the fields and habitations of the colonists. It was expected from the first, that the situation would render the place a great city; and after the fear of the Indians had subsided, the whole penin- sula, which bears the name of Saybrook Point, was laid out with the greatest regularity into fields of an equal size, except such parts as were reser- ved for the erection of public buildings. Yale College was placed here for a time, and a great number of emigrants were once collected in Eng- land, and prepared for a voyage to this place. Some persons of high rank and importance were among them, and Oliver Cromwell had determined to embark in the enterprise, when some unfore- seen occurrence prevented him. The want of a harbor, and the sand bar at the f I .-.il 220 ROUTE IN CONNECTICUT. h-i I :< .. mouth of the river, prevented the expectations of the settlers of Saybrook from being realized ; and no remains of their works can now be discovered, except in the rectangular forms of the fields, and the wells and cellars of some of their dwellings, just beyond the burying ground, the foundation stones of which have since been employed in building the neighboring fences. One of the lar- gest excavations is said to have been the cellar of the old college building. The soldiers were fre- quently attacked within a short distance of the fort by the Pequods, but they afterward ran a pa- lisade across the isthmus which leads from the mainJpnd. CONNECTICUT RIVER. The shores pre- sent a continued succession of hilly and pictur- esque country, with few interruptions of level land, from a little above Saybrook as far as Mid- dletown. The roughness and rocky nature of the soil prevent the cultivation of many mountainous tracts: yet there are farms enough to give a con- siderable degree of softness to the scenery. The variety of rocky and wooded banks, mingling with little patches of cultivated ground, and the habita- tions scattered along the river, is very agreeable, and often affords scenes highly picturesque and delightful. Essex, 7 miles from Saybrook. This place for- merly called Pettipaug, is a small village, on the ascent and summit of a handsome elevation. Just above it is an island of some extent, which divides the river and gives it an unusual breadth. During the late war with Great Britain, this place was taken by the enemy, who came up the river in ,.';.— ■^.: tions of id ; and [)vered, Is, and ellings, ndation lyed ir.' the lar- cllar of ere fre- of the in a pa- )m the es pre- pictur- )f level ^s Mid- ol' the tainous a con- The g with labita- eeablo, e and ce for- on the Just livides )iiring e was ver in i iU ' (I i '* 1 1 m 1 m 1 i \ HADDAM. 221 \ launches, and taking the inhabitants by surprise, occupied the town for a few hours. Some distance above this place the channel lies so near the eastern shore, that the steamboat passes almost under the trees by which it is sha- ded. Joshua^s Rock is on the same side of the river, a little below Brockway's Ferry. It is said to have derived its name from the son of Uncas, Sachem of the Mohicans (see Norwich,) who, ac- cording to a tradition current in the neighbor- hood, being once closely pursued by enemies, threw hin\self from the top of the rock, and per- ished in the river. Warner's Ferry, 13 miles from Saybrook, East Haddam on the east. The landing place here is rocky, mountainous, and wild, and a good specimen of a large portion of the town to which it belongs. Gen. Champion has a fine house built among the rocks above, which adds much to the appearance of the plnce. This region is famous for a kind of earthquakes and subterranean sounds, which were formerly common for a short distance round. They gave occasion to many supersti- tious reports, but have ceased within a few years. They were called Moodus Noises, after the Indian name of the place. Large beryls are found in the neighborhood, and many other minerals inter- esting to the scientific traveller. Haddam, on the west, is built on an eminence 50 or 60 feet high, which appears like the remains of an old bank of the river, descending a little meadow which is covered with orchards, grazing ground, &c. while a range of commanding hills rise beyond. I f' !•: n^ ■ ^ it. /ft. ,.iv '] 222 ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVER. HiGGENUM, on the west, is one of the little landing places so numerous along the river's course, 2 miles above Haddam. Middle Haddam, 2 miles further, on the east. This is a pleasant country village, stretching along a hill covered with orchards and home lots, and backed by higher and wilder eminences. It is about 6 miles below Middlctown. Looking down the river from a little above this place, a large and beautiful hill is seen, which af- fords the richest scene of cultivation on this part of the river, being entirely covered with fields and orchards. A large wooded eminence is a lit- tle higher up, and several high hills, almost wor- thy of the name of mountains, are visible in the north. The Narrows. Here the river turns abruptly to the west, and flows between two lofty hills, which it has divided at some long past period, before which, there is every reason to believe, the country for a great distance above was covered by a lake. A mile or two eastward of this place, there is the appearance of an old channel, where the water probably ran, at a great height above its present level. A Lead Mine is a short distance from the south- ern bank of the river, near two or three old hou- ses. Fort Hill is the last elevated part of the south- ern bank. It was formerly a little fortress be- longing to Souheag, an Indian chief, whose do- minion extended over the present towns of Mid- dlctown, Chatham, and Wethersfield. The large buildings on the hill in Middletown belong to the Wesleyan College. 4 fO] th( boi fro MIDDLETOWN. 223 e little rivcr*s le east. g along ►ts, and , It is ove this hich af- his part h fields ; is a lit- ost wor- e in the abruptly ty hills, t period, ieve, the vered by is place, 1, where above its he south- old hou- he south- Iress be- i^hose do- of Mid- rhe large ng to the MIDDLETOWN is beautifully situated on the western bank of the river, where the water is spread out to a considerable breadth, and disap- pears so suddenly at the Narrows, that from many points of view, it has the appearance of a small lake, with high, sloping, and cultivated shores. The Quarries of Freestone^ on the opposite shore, have furnished a valuable building material for some years, and have been worked to a con- siderable extent. Manufactories. Cotton, Woollen, and Rifle Manufactories, and three machine shops, are near the bridge at the south end of the street. Col. North's Pistol Manufactory is situated two or three miles west of the town. There are also Starr's Rifle Factory, Johnson's Sword Factory, the Pameacha Woollen, Spalding's Tape, and Pratt's Comb factories. There are various pleasant rides in this neigh- borhood, particularly to two picturesque Water /'aZZ^ in Middlefield. In the direction of one of them is Laurel Grove, where the road is shaded for nearly a mile with those shrubs, which, in the season, are covered with flowers. The Cobalt Mine is about five miles east, in Chatham, at the foot of Rattlesnake Hill. It is not worth working, at the usual price of the metal- Specimens of peach-bloom of cobalt may be pick- ed up among the rubbish. Just southerly from it is a very pretty water fall, about thirty feet high. A number of German families live in the neigh- borhood ; the descendants of miners, who came from Europe some years ago to work the mine. i i". r ii t \ t! i cl' JJ24 ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVER. Upper Houses, a village of Middletown, 2 miles above. From a hill 1 mile from this is a very pleasamt view towards the south, presenting the river, with the meadow and hills, as well as Middletown and the fine high grounds in its rear. Rocky Hilly 5 miles, a parish of Wethersfield. About half a mile north of the tavern, if you travel by land, you reach the brow of a hill, which com- mands a rich prospect of many miles of the Con- necticut Valley W ( thersfield lies in front, and the variegated l>?ua d plains around belong to numerous townsL ps o?^ both sides of the river, enclosed by ranges of distant highland, which di- rect the course of its channel. On the left, about 15 miles off, is the ridge of Talcott mountain; and the two blue peaks in the north are Mount?^ Tom and Holyoke, near Northampton, at the dis- tance of about fifty miles. Wethersfieldy 3 miles from Hartford, has a fine light soil, on an extensive level, peculiarly favora- ble to the culture of onions, which are exported in great quantities to various parts of the country, the West Indies, &c. Wethersfield was one of the three earliest set- tlements made by white men in Connecticut: or rather it may strictly claim the precedence of all, for although houses were first built here, as well as at Hartford and Windsor, in 1635, three or four men came to this place the year previous, and spent the winter. Depredations were com- mitted on their settlements for the first few years ; but as they were done by the Pequods, the de- struction of that nation at Mystic Foit, by Capt. be< na eel wh anc obi be are self. Th sylv cone The bed CONNECTtCUT STATE PRISON. 225 )wn, 2 ileasawt >r, with wn and Bvsfield. u travel ch com- ,he Con- )nt, and elong to e river, i^hich di- ;ft, about ountain ; 5 Mounts t the dis- las a fine y favora- ported in country, [iest set- Iticut: or je of all, as well [three or )revious, ire com- |w years ; the dc- Iby Capt. Mason, in 163G, putnn end to them entirely, and this part of the river was never afterward luadt the theatre of war. The (/onnecticut State Prison. — The situ- ation of ihis institution is htaUhy, retired, and convenient to the water and the great road. It was completed in 1817; and is vvorihy of the at- tention of those who feel an interest in the condi- tion and prospects of the unhappy inmates of such edifices. What liave heretofore been regarded as the necessary evils of prisons, will here he found greatly reduced ; and, in many respects, even with regard to the prisoners, converted into benefits. The modern improved principles of prison -ilis- cipline have nowhere produced so sudden ai.d t beneficial a change as in the state of Conne. ticiit. An old copper mine atGranby was for many years the State Prison, and was conducted on th« old and vicious system. Here the Auburn syi °,m has been established, with some few deviations. The men are brought out to their work at sig- nals given by the bell. They lodge in solitary cells, and are not permitted to converse together while at work. They take their food in their cells, and when going to and from work or prayers, are obliged to march with the h)ck step. They ae to be chiefly employed in brick-making. No blows are allowed to be given by the officers except in self-defence. The smith's fires are supplied with Lehigh (Penn- sylvania) coal for fuel ; and part of the heat is conducted away in pipes to waim the apartments. The cells are furnished with comfortable beds and bed clothes, and a Bible for each. They are 19 I I . ii. ;.<■ ^^I! ■■• s ; f r,r|j ■:'ft iii ■ A it If n 226 ROUTE UP COIVNECriCUT RIVER, ranged in rows, and the keepers can look into them through grated dcjors ; at tlie same lime the prisoners are not able to converse with each other. Neitlier oflicers nor convicts are allowed to use ardent spirits. The inmates arc kept clean and comfortably clad ; and while shut up from society, whose laws they have infringed, they are not de- based and rendered more vicious and dangerous by bad example or evil counsel ; but are usefully and healthfully employed, instructed, invited to return to virtue and respectability, and consigned for a large portion of the time to solitude and un- disturbed reflection. HAR'i FORD. — Inns. The City Hptel, (by J. Morgan,) and the United States Hotel, (by H. Morgan,) are two of the best houses in the coun- try. This is the semi-capital of the slate, and a place of considerable business, as well as one of the great points at which the principal roads con- centrate. The Charter Oak. — In the lower part of the town, and east from the south church, is the an- cient and respectable seat of the Wyllys family, who were among the early settlers of Hartford, and have made a conspicuous figure in the history of the state, as well as of the town, by supplying the Secretary's ollice for a long course of time. This place is now owned by Mr. Bulkley; and has undergone considerable changes. The fine old oak, which stands on the street in front, is said to huve been a forest tree before the land was cleared, yet it appears as firm arui vigorous as ever. In a hoir in its trunk was hidden the charter of the colony, when Sir Edmund Andross sent to de- sei ex bc( of thi inir C5 HARTFORD. 227 ok into lime the ;h other, i to use can and society, 3 not de- an gerous usefully ivited to ;onsigned e ancl un- tel, (by J. il, (by H. the coun- ate, and a as one of 'oads con- )art of the is the an- lys family, "^Hartford, he history supplying e ot time. y. and has e fine old _, is said to /as cleared, 3ver. In a rter of the sent to de- mand it in 1687 ; and tliere it remained for some yearsi. Tl lis iiiterestlnir document is s till pre- served in the udice of the Secretary of the state. The Asyluiii for the Education of the Deaf and D umb is about a nnle west of the town, on Tower Iliil. It was the earliest institution of the kind in America. Mr. Wiild is principal, and Mr. Le Clerc, a favorite pupil of the Abbe Sicard of Paris, occupies the next station. lie is a man of supe- rior talents, altliouirh deaf and dumb. The principal buil(linr recitation, the lihrary, &c. The college bills are ^52 50 per annum in all; and the students board in private families at the rate of $1 50 per week. Fourteen acres of land belong to the institution, part of which are devoted to the garden with its green- house. [Montevideo^ the seat of Daniel Wadsworth, Esq. enjoys a charming situation on a mountain nine miles westward.] REMARKS. — From Hartford there are stage coaches running in various directions; north, one on each side of Connecticut River ; (and the steam- boat to Springfield ;) north-cast, to Boston ; east, to Providence ; south, to New-Haven and New- York, (besides the daily steamboats to the latter place ;) west, to Litchfield and Poughkeepsie ; and north-west, to Albany. The road to Boston leads through Stafford Springs, and Worcester, but is otherwise very un- interesting, and quite hilly. The Boston and Wor- cester Railroad, however, will be found very convenient. There are two routes to Boston, which separate at Tolland, and meet again 15 miles from that capital. On the new road, (which is shorter,) a coach goes through every day — tra- velling from 3 A. M. till 6 P. M . Stafford Springs, (26 miles from Hartford) is in a romantic region. Tolland, 17 m., Springs 9, Stur- bridge 16, &c. The traveller in New-England is advised to take the route up Connecticut river, which is the most roi ru ou soi TRAVKLLINO IN NEW-ENOLANP. 229 r I stories ; and a ion, the 50 per private ourteen part of s green- Iswortli, mountain e stage jrth, one le steam- in ; eastf [id New- he latter Dsie ; and Stafford ! very un- and Wor- jnd very Boston, gain 1 5 d, (which day — tra- 3rd) is in a rs 9, Stur- ;ed to take the most fertile, wealthy, and hoaulifiil tract of the conntry ; and to return by the way of Boston and Provi- dence. Tiiis is xUv route we projxjse to pursue ; but the trav(;ller can vary iVoin it as he pleases. He will find such iiifornratiori as tiiis little volume is able to allnrd him, by rcfurring to the Index. The fertility of the meadows in the Connecticut Valley is provrrbiu! ; and after what the stranger lias seem of its banks at Middh^tovvn and Hartford, he will learn with gratification that neither the soil nor the beauty of the cultivation degenrratcs for several hundred miles northward. The whole country is thickly populated ; neat and beautiful villag(is are met wiih at intervals of a few miles ; and the ifeneral intelligence derived from univer- sal education gives an elevated aspect to society. The accommodations for travellers are generally very comfortable, and sometimes uncommonly good and elegant; the scenery is ever new and varying; many places have traits of interest in their history ; and the communication is easy, from many points- of the route, with the principal places on the east and west. Besides all this, the roads are peculiarly fine, for they are generally run alono- the river's bank, which is almost with- out exception level and pleasant, and formed of a soil well fitted to the purpose. The western side of the river is generally to be preferred ; but as there are good roads on both sides, and some villages and other objects worthy of equal notice on the eastern shore, and good fer- ries or bridg s are to be met with every few miles, it will be agreeable occasionally t » cross and re- cross. Those who travel along the course of the lU* ii 13 : ,! i^'m 230 ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVER. Connecticut twice, would do well to go up on one side and return on the other. Tfiis is the most di- rect route to the While Hills, or White Mountains of New-Humpshire. The principal falls have been canallcd and locked for boats for a nuinber of years. A canal ha* been made at Enfield Falls, 6 miles in length, in the bed of the river, with three locks, of a suf- firifMit breadth to admit steam towboats. [Tliose who go to Bost'm will pass through Worcester.] Worcestar is one of the finest villages in New- England. The country around it is rich and vari- egated, and the dwellings have an air of elegance which docs rrreat credit to the taste as well as the wcuith of its inhabita!its. Brick is extensively used in building. Perknii^es are manufactured here of fine q»?aiity. The Boston and Worcester Railroad, 43} miles, will have no curve with a greater radius than M50 ft., and no inclination above 30 ft. in a mile. The commencement, in Worcester, is 4.56 ft. higher than Charles-street, Boston. The whole ascent overcome in going to Worcester is 554 ft. The road is 2 miles longer than a straisxht line, or equal to the stage road. The counhouse, bank, itc. stand on the princi- pal street ; and east of it the county house and the building of the American Historical Society. — This is an institution f(»rmed by Mr. Isaiah Thomas, many years a printer in this place, for the purpose of preserving every thing relating to the history, traditions, &c. of the country. He has made it a donation of his valuable library, between 7 and I I EAST HARTFORD. 231 ) on one most (li- juri tains led and A canal 1 length, of a suf- through in New- and vari- elegance ell as the tensively ufactured Vorcester ve with a )cHnation sment, in les-street, going to es longer road. 16 princi- sc and the his is an as, many urpose of } history, made it a leen 7 and 8000 volumes, with many files of newspapers the liJindi and built at his own expense the ruindsome edince in which it is deposited. The buililing cost about $8000. For the BlacJcstonc Canal which connects this place with Providence, see Index. Watchusett Hills, U> miles VV. N. \V. of Wor- cester, and 52 W. by N. of Boston, are estimated at nearly 30nO feet above the sea, and ascended by an easy path. The spectator looks down on a surrounding scene of wooded mountains, below which are ponds and farms, and a view over cul- tivated and inhabited regions. [From Worcester to Leicester, 5 milrs ; East Brookfield, 7 : Brookfield, 6\ Ware Factory Vil- lage, 5 ; Belchertown, 10; Northampton 15.] Route up Connecticut River. Leaving Hartford, the State Arsenal is seen on the right hand, a mile from the city ; and many pleasant views are enjoyed. [East Hartford, op})osite Hartford, has a sandy soil, but the street, as well as that of East Wind- sor, next north of it, is shaded with rows of line elms. The road crosses Podunk Brook by a small bridge, about four miles from Hartfi)rd, on the north bank of which, on the left-hand, was once a fort of the powerful tribe of Podunk Indians, who had their settlements on this winding stream, and some of their broken implements are occa- sionally found in the soil. Tlie ?iation was so powerful, that Uncas, Sachem of the Mohegans, was once daunted by the show of their force, al- though he had marched to attack them with his army, and afterward chose to intimidate theni by « f rise, and ntry was X square d which ning ten bes. ver Ells- et, above is distin- by trees, was in 5tates to ed of the n on the the place carries on a little trade. There is a Shaker settle- ment of about 000 per-ioiis, 5 or 6 njilcs from En- field. Messrs. Anch-ews &- Thompson's Carpet Manufactory is at Thompsonvillo. SuFFiELD is a very ph^asMiU town, about a mile west of .the river, and has a jxood inn. The vil- lage street runs along the ridgo of a long and beau- tiful hill, with neat houses and white fences on both sides, and the home lots sloping east and west towards the low ground. 8unie of the houses are large ai:d elegant. Suffield Spn7is;-s, Ahout a mile south-west of the street is a mineral spring of slightly sulphur- ous qualities. A house has been built there about 20 years, which has accommodations for 50 per- sons, with baths of dillerent descriptions. The spring is in swampy land, and its qualities are considered valuable, particularly in cases of cuta- neous disorders. The place is pleasant, in the midst or a rich rural scene, with a pretty ilower garden, &C. Springfield. Stage coaches run north, south, and to Boston and Albany. This is a flourishing town, standing at the foot of a high hill, the side of which is ornamented with fine buildings, the residences of some of the wealthier inhabitants, and the top occupied by the United States' Ar- mory. This establishment occupies a large space of ground, and commands a tine view. The build- ings containing the work-sfiops for manufacturing small arms, the arsenal, barracks, ur nulls, &c. belonging to individ- ir.;'>, besides the Upper, Middle, and Lower Wa- ter Shops, connected with the armor}. Tiiereare three dams of liewn stone, and the buildings are well calculated for service and durability. The town is ornamented with many line elms and other trees ; and there are two very handsome churches, a High School, &lc. It was originally considered within the limits of Connecticut Col- ony, but at length incorporated with Massachu- setts. A tribe of Indians lived for some }ears on Fort Hill; but being won over to King Philip's party, in 1675, they assumed a hostile air, fired upon some of the inhabitants who were going to their fort, and burnt a part of the town. In 1786, during tlie rebellion of Shays, he at- tacked the armory, at the head of a strong parly of undisciplined men. Gen. Shepard, who had command at the place, attempted to dissuade them from the attempt, and finally drove them off. The first shot, over their heads, dispersed the raw troops, and the second drove otT the remainder, who, being about 200 revoluti ?'iu:y soldiers, did not desist until they had iost a iV\v of their men. This was the first check the insurrection received, which was put down without much subsequent trouble. [Wilbraham, 7 or 3 miles west from Springfield, contains a Wesleyan Academy, The pupils are instructed in agriculture on a farm, and in the me- f«OUTH ilADLEY FALLS. 235 a day. oulh of f obser- indiviii- (31* VV a- hereare ngs are ne elms andsuine riginally cut Col- assucliu- 3 ears on Fhilip's iir, fired going to s, be at- ng parly ho bad ade tbem tr. The the raw mainder, iors, did eir men. received, ibsequent iringfield, )upils are n the me. I r chanic arts in a shop, belonging to the instimtion. Thtvro are teachers iii xarious branches of litera- ture- ^ ieiice, and the arts.] i'Vest Sprivgjicld has a tine street, shaded with large elms, and contniningso^iie luindsome houses. It is 26 miles from Hartford, and about 17 miles from Northampton. There is a fine view from the road on the brow of a hill a little north of the town, near a church, uhich overlooks the river and an extent of country on each side, with Mounts Tom and Holyoke in front South Hadlev Falls. The village and locks are on the east side of the river. The whole fall is 52 feet, but at the lower falls only 32. There is a canal 2^ miles long on the bank of the river, cut through a slate rock for a considerable distance, and in some places very deep. Tiie dam is 8 feet high, 'inhere are live locks near the tavern, and one above. The toll here is 90 cents. There is a ferry here, which is safe, but the water runs very swiftly. For several miles before reaching Mcunt Tom, the road on the west side, runs along the banks of the river, showing its banks, in many places, rough- ened with rocks. Its channel is in one })lace crossed bv the dam, wbich turns the water into the South Hadlcy Canal. The river makes an ab- rupt turn some miles above, running between Mount Tom on the south and Mount tJoiyoke on the north ; and when the scene opens again, it discloses a charming and extensive plain, formed of the meadows on the river's bank, one of the richest, and by far the most extensive and beau- ful on the river. ¥ » , ! ^'lr« m I: I 236 ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVER. NoRTHA>iPT»)N. Thore' is a splendid hotel here. Wariu^r also kicps a very good house. This town is situated at, the west side of the plain, a mile from tlie river, and is a favorite place of re- sort for travellers; as it is one of the most beau- tiful of the New-England villages, and is surround- ed by a charming country, and lies near to Mount Holyoke, which comniands a view of the whole. The streets are irregular, hut some of them shady and delightful in summer, being also ornamented v/ith many neat houses, [t is a place of consider- able business; and the soil makes valuable farms. Round Hill is a beautiful eminence just west of the town. The Lead Mine. In Southampton, at the dis- tanc3 of 8 miles, is a lead mine, which will be re- garded with ii terest by the curious and scientific. A considerabh' part of the road to it is good, and the place is wild and rough. The vein declines 10 or lo deirrees from a per- pendicular, is 6 or 8 feet in diameter, and traverses granite juid other primitive rocks. It has been ol)served at intervals from Montgomery to Hat- field, a distance of 20 miles. In Southampton it has been explored nmu y n)ds in length, to tiie depth of 40 or 5U ftu t ; and the ore, found in masses from a quarter of an inch to a foot in diameter. At the depth above mrniioned, the water became abundant and a horizontal drift, or adit, has been dug. The rocks reckoning from the mouth of the drift inwards, are geest, the red and gray slates of the co;,! {'•rmavion, with thin beds of coal, and mi- ca slate, 'ind grar.ite alternating. The mouth ;f this drift is 4 or 6 feet wide, and ■■■» ■I ]id hotel )d house. the phiin, lace of re- ost beau- surround- to Mount he whole, iem shady rnamented considcr- )le farms, ist west of at the dis- will be re- scientific, good, and •om a per- J traverses has been y to Hat- lampton it I the depth in masses diameter- er became has been )uth of the y slates of al, and mi- wide, and ,. : I i « f ii ! r! i; as t • 9 •I J'' ' < I -hM ')! I\ V I MOUNT IIOLYOKE. 237 ■i;ii 1 -'ill about 3 feet above thp surface of tlie water. TIjc person wishiu<; to explore this ijitornal etuial, must fire a ^un or beat with a sleclije on the timbers ; in lO or 15 minutes, he will |)erceive a gentle un- dulation of the wtUt-r, and soon after, a b(»at ad- vancing witli lighted lamps and a rower. Having seated himself on the bottom of this boat, with an adilitional garment, he is prepared for his subter- ranean expedition. If he looks back, after having advanced several hundred feet, tlie light at the en- trance vvill appear dijninished ; and before he reaches the extremity, it becomes invisible. M( on NT UoLVOKE The ascent of this mountain has become very fashionable, perhaps more so than any sindlar enlerpjise in this country, if we except that of the Catskill Mountains in New-York. The height is about 8(K) feet ; and there is a good car- riai^e road th? greater part of the way up. Tfiere is a short road through the meadows, di- rectly to Lyman's ferry, at the foot of the moun- tain, which is furinsfud with a good horse-boat. But it may be found pleasanter to cross the l)ridge at ilif! upper end of the town, pass through llud- ley Meadows, and down on the eastern bank. Af- ter following tfje path up the mountain to its ter- mination, you dismount, secure your horses to the trees, and walk up a rude stone staircase H. fteshmcnts will be lound at the house which occu- pies the summit ; and which opens on both sides, in such a manner as to command an uin'fiterrupted view o f th( e ricn ami variet land ^cane bel ow. Those who wisli to enjoy the luxury of seeing day break and the sun rise over such a scene, may tind a shelter here for the night. 20 '{I ! C . !1 '1 Hif 4 ff It "m : 238 ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVER. South-east^ the country is iindulatinrr, and the soil generally poor ; yet several villages arc dis- covered at a distance, particularly South Hadley, immediately below. Southwardly is seen Connec- ticut river, retiring under the shade of Mount Tom, white.ied below by tfie South lladic y Falls ; be- yond which is the hill at Springfield. The river makes several turns, and on the horizon are two very distant peaks, which have been supposed to be Etst and West Rocks, at New-Haven, about 70 miles distant. North-east, is seen Monadnoc Mountain in New- Hampshire; and the view towards the east is in- terrupted by the neighboring peaks of Mount Holyoke. Norths you look up the charming valley of the Connecticut; bordered by distant ranges of hilla and mountains, varied by a few isolated peaks, co- vered with the richest coat of vegetation, and scat- tered with villages and innumerable far.n houses. The river makes a beautiful serpentine course ; from where it first appears at the fi)Ot of Sugar Loaf Mountain, and Mount Toby,* until it reaches the village of Iladley, which lies in full view ; and then taking a bold sweep to the west, and flowing 4| miles, it returns to the end o( the street, only a mile distant from where it first meets it. The whole peninsula is rich and fertile, and covered with fields of wheat, corn, grass, c^ M Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN SlU^l WEBSTER, N.Y, 14!!iS0 (716) 872-45031 \ iV L1>' ^\ % .V A c> 240 ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVER. ed the frontier posts in this direction till after Philip's war, during which they suffHred severely from constant alarms, and the loss of inhabitants. The Indian tribes who had sohi the land on which the towns were built, had each a spot assigned them within a short tlis^tance of the palisades with which tlie new settlements were surrDunded, and lived in peace and gotxl laith until excited bv Phil- ip ; after which all the towns were at different times attacked byihem, and some of them repeat- edly. During the French war, on May 13ih, 1704, the Indians tell upon a little settlement at the foot of Mount Tom and killed 20 persons, more than half of whom were children ; and a tradition states, that a captive woman was once brought to the top of the mountain where we stand, arul scalped. Hadley was attacked by the Indians in Philip's war, while the inhnbiiants were at church, and was near falling into their hands, when a stranger, a venerable old man, ma^le his appearance, and by his active resistance, encouraged them to repel the enemy. It was not known at the time who he was, or whither he went ; but there is now little doubt that he was Goffe, one of king Charle's judges, who was secreted for a length of time in this town, and of whom we have already had occasion to speak at New-Haven. The remains of his coffin, it is believed, v^ ers disccjvered a few years since, in the cellar wall of a house near the present academy, which was formerly inhabited by one of his friends. The Burning of Deerlicld, we shall speak of on ar- riving at that town. Stage coaches run to Boston and Albany in a day ; and up and down the river daily. DEERFIELD. 241 till after severely labitanls. un which assigned ades with nded, and J by Phil- different in repeat- 3ih, 1704, it the foot more than ion states, to the top !alped. in Philip's h, and was iranger, a ;, and by 3 repel the o he was, tile doubt dges, who own, and to speak ffin, it is ice, In the academy, is friends, of on ar- bany in a Hadley, 3 miles. (See the preceding page.) Hatfield, one mile further, on the west side of the river, is much devoted to the winterinjr of cat- tie raised on the neighboring hilly country. The grass is very fine, and the barns are large ; which, with the appearance of the houses, give the place an air of substantial agricultural wealth. The cat- tle are bought, stabled, and fatted. [Amherst is situated on elevated ground, five miles from Hadley ; and off the river towards the north-east. Amherst College, — Although of recent institu- tion, this ranks among the most respectable in New- England. The situation occupied by the buildings is delightful, commanding a rich, extensive, and varied view, partly over the meadows of Connec- ticut river, with mountains particularly mentioned a few pages back, seen in different directions. The retired situation is highly favorable to study and good order, as its elevation and };ure air are con- ducive to health. T!ie president, Dr. Humphries, is also professor of mental and moral Philosophy and Divinity. There are six other professors, a teacher of French and Spanish, a teacher of ma- thematics, and a tutor of Latin and Greek. The Amherst AcademAj is a large private estab- lishment for the education of boys. It is about three miles distant.] The Sugar Loaf is an isolated hill of a conical form, rising in front as we proceed. A line view is enjoyed from the summit. Deerfield lies north of it about three miles ; and the way by which we approach it, is nearly along the old road which Jed thither through the wilderness, in 1675, when 30* 'm i I \ ^•1 ill 1 1 m 4'! ' 242 ROUTE UP JCONNECTICUT RIVER* it was deserled by the settlers, and Capt. Lothrop was despi clied, with a b(jdy of 80 soldiers and wagoners, to bring off the grain. At the foot of this mountain is the small viiUge of Bloody Brook, (improperly called Muddy Brook,) and near the spot where a bridge crosses the stream, Capt. Lo- throp was ambushed by about 800 Indians. The place was then a marshy piece of ground ; and some traces of the road, which was fornied of logs, are still to be seen, ruiming through the fields with- out crossing at tlie bridge. The convoy halted at this piacp ; and the soldiers were generally engag- ed in gathering grapes from the vines which ran on the trees, having left their muskets on the ground, when the Inditins fired upon them. Capt. Lothrop gave orders that the men should disperse, and fire from behind the trees ; but they were aU cut off except 8 or 10. This massacre was one of the most calamitous which ever occurred in New- Engiand, taken into view with the small number of inhabitants at the time ; as the company con- sisted of young men from the principal families in the eastern towns. There is a stone now lying near the fence, west of the brook, which was brought there some j^ears since for a monument. That part of the meadow we pass through in ap- proaching Deerfield was the scene of several skir- mishes with the Indians at different times, as the place was a frontier for many years, although it was twice burned and deserted. DtERFiELD. In 1704, which was the period of its last destruction, a large body of Indians, led on by a few Frenchmen from Canada, came upon the town before daylight. It was winter, ano. the snow r DKERFIELD. 243 Lothrop ^rs and ? foot of T Brook, ear the !apt. Lo- s. The 1(1 ; and of logs, Ids with- hnlted at lyengag- hich ran 3 on the 1. Capt. disperse, were all as one of in New- number lany con- milies in ow lying lich was onument. gh in ap- eral skir- , as the lOugh it period of ns, led on upon the the snow crust was strong enough to bear them ; they had secreted themselves on a hill north-west from Deer- field, and sent in a scout. The houses were all en- tered but one, the inhabitants made captives, and all, except a few, taken off to Canada. One of the houses is standing at this day, a little north of the church ; and the hole may still be seen in the door, which the Indians hacked with their toma- hawks, and then fired through, as well as the marks of several bullets in the eastern room, one of which went through the neck of a woman and killed her. A young man and his bride leaped from a window of the chamber above ; and though the latter was unable to walk, in consequence of spraining her ancle, the former fled, at her urgent request, and, meeting with some troops on his way, brought them up in time to drive off the Indians, but not to retake any of the captives. A house next this was valiantly defended by seven men ; and the dwelling of Mr. Williams, the minister, was taken, and he and his family carried to Canada. Most of the people were ransomed ; but a daughter of Mr. W. became attached to the savage life, mar-^'^d a chief, and left children. Some marks of the old picket may be traced in the rear of the house, which is su[)posed to present the same appearance as in old time, excepting that the kitchen, &c. have since been built, and the front and rear iiave been covered. East from this place, are several spurs project- ing from the hill, on one of which was formerly a fort, for the protection of the Deerfield Indians against the Mohawks. Greenfield, 3 miles. Here the stage coach passes ;;, I I , 244 ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVER. on a road from Boston to Albany. The country west is highly picturesque. Just south of the town, Deertield river appears to liave at some pe- riod formed a lake of some extent, with an outlet towards the east, where its channel may be seen, with the place of an old cascade, and the rocks bored out by the rushing of the water. Tlie chan- nel now lies through a deep cut between two hills. A High School, for young ladies, is established here. Turner''s Falls arc on Connecticut river, two or three miles east from Greenfield, The way by "vhich we approach is nearly over the same ground, where Captain Turner marched in the year 1076, when he went to attack a large body of Indians, assembled at an Indian fort, a quarter of a mile above the falls; and by which he also returned, after a successful battle, pursued by his surviving enemies. Philip, having been driven from the seacoast and the neighborhood of the English settlements, by the active operations of Capt. Church, Capt. Mosely, Capt. Wheeler, &c., retired with some of his followers to the Northfield Indians, who held a position on a sandy hill, on the north bank of the river. Here he was attacked in the night by Capt. Turner. The English left their horses on a hill, which descends to a brook emptying into the Con- necticut below the falls; and having mounted the opposite bank, proceeded near where the present road leads, and marched up the sandy hill. The place has a swamp on two sides, and the river on the fourth. The Indians had held a feast that night, and were generally asleep, so that the attack of VERNON. 245 3 country Lh of the some pe- aii outlet be seen, he rocks rhe chan- two hills, itablishcd er, two or e way by e ground^ ear 1076, • InOians, :)f a mile returned, surviving seacoast tlements, ch, Capt. 1 some of who held ink of the by Capt. on a hill, the Con- inted the e present ill. The i river on at night, attack of the white men gave them a panic, and they fled to their boats, which they launched in such haste, that many forgot their paddles, and were carried over the falls. The rest, however, rallied before their enemies were out of iheir reach, and being joined by some from the island below the falls, pursued and harassed them about ten miles, to D(«rfH'l(i. Bones are occasionally dug up near the spot, and a few years ago the remains of an old musket, a few silver coins, &f slate. Brattlehorough is a very pleasant village, situa- ted on an elevated plain ahove the river, which, since the draining of the old lake in this place, \vaz made two or three successive arches north of the town, as it has gradually lowered its channel to the present level. At the bridge, over a small stream, are several manufactories; and in the village is a large and comfortable stage house, whence coaches go to Boston, as well as vv'est, north, and jouih. Westminster. This is on a fine extensive level ; and on the high land, on the opposite side of the river, is Walpole, Connecticut river being the dividing line between the two adjacent stales, Walpole is in New-Hampshire. The situation is very command- ing, and the summit of the hill, above the village, aifords a vie w of un usual extent and beauty. Stage coaches go hence to Boston, 6lc, Three miles north is the farm of Col. Bellows, which contains 700 acres. The house of the pro- prietor enjoys a fine situation on a ridge rising from the meadowy near where stood the fort erect- ed by Col. Bellows, when, about the middle of the last century, the settlement was begun. Bellovfs Falls. The height of this fall is incon- siderable, but it is, on the whole, a striking object ; surrounded by rocky banks, and having an abrupt mountain on the eastern side. The place has also been much ornamented by art ; for, besides the village, with its neat while houses and handsooio church, a canal has been dug round the falls, a bridge thrown over them, and the rugged side of the mountain decorated with a handsome country jeat. CHARLESTOVVN. 247 I quarry, ye, situa- ', which, lace, ha:: h of the ^G\ to the 1 str^m, lagc is a 3 coaclies jouih. ive level; le of the } dividing pole is in onrimand- e village, y. Stage Bellows, f the pro- Ige rising ort erect- die of the is incon- g object ; an abrupt e has also sides the landsopo \e falls, a ide of the ntrv s^at. The rocks arc of the most firm and solid gray granite, but are much cut by the force of the cur- rent. In some places holes have been bored into them perpendicularly, two or three feet in diame- ter, and \2 or even 18 feet deep. This is done by the motion given to the loose stones by the eddies of the stream, and the gradual enlargement of the bore sometimes breaks off'great masses of the rock. These falls were once the fovorite resort of the Indians during the fisliing season. On the rock just below the bridge are some remains of their rude attempts at sculj)ture, which rv3])resent the form of human faces; and from one on the end of the stone, which appears to have suffered less fron) the attriiioi^ of the floods, it would seem as if they might once have been more finished speci- mens of 3culptare than they now appear, as that presents considerable prominency and beauty of execution. The Hunt Farm is about 3^ miles from the falls, and is a 1? rge and valuable estate, the mea- dows being rich and beautiful in the extreme. Charlestown. This is one of the prettiest little villages in New-England: having a wide street, partly shaded with trees, and lined with neat houses, many of which speak the taste, as well as the easy circumstances of their proprietors. The fort, built for the defence of the place in 1743, stood on the gently rising ground a little south of the church, where the street runs; but not a vestage of it is to be discovered. It was most gallantly defended by Captain Stevens, in 1747, against a large number of French and Indians : al- though repeatedly called upon to surrender, the i'. I f I j :;| ■: i\i w I' i *. ^1 S ■'! ■1 1 '% i iHii B !;1 *! i. 248 ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVER. garrison persisted in the de fence, digging into the ground to shelter themselves from the enemy's fire, and, alter several days, succeeded in driving them away. Capt. S. received a sword for his bravery. Mr. Jarvis's Farm, at Wethersfiehl Bow, on the west side of the river, is very extensive, and con- tains a number of large buildings for dwellings, barns, stables, Slc, principally of brick. The land is generally fenced with roots of pine trees, drag- ged from the ground, by which the soil is render- ed fit for immediate cultivation, and unencumbered. The road beyond affords some romantic scenes. The hills approach the river very nearly, and seve- ral views are caught between them, of the moun- tain behind Windsor, which is abiuit 2000 feet in height, and divided into three peaks, whence, it is said, it tlerived the name of Ascutney, which in the Indian languiige, means three brothers. WINDSOR is a fine and nourishing town, in a very picturesque situation, particularly when view- ed from tlie opposite side of the river; and con- tains a good stage house, kept by Pettes, a num- ber of stores, some elegant houses, two or three handsome churches, and the State Prison. This latter building is of granite, on the hill in the western part of the town. It is planned after the old and ill-devised system. The stones are se- cured against removal, by having six pound can- non sliot placed between them, holes being cut into the stones to receive them. Mount Ascutney. A part of the way up this mountain a road has been cut, and the traveller will be richly rewarded for the labor of his ascent. From the nature of the soil, he cannot, indeed. WHITE KIVEK. Ud into the y'slire, ig them >ravcry. , on the m\ con- fellings, 'he hind s, drag- render- mhered. ; scenes, lid seve- i moun- ) feet in ice, it is v^hich in t ■ vvn, in a en view- nd con- a niim- or three e hill in ed after s are se- nd can- cut into up this raveller ascent. indeed. expect to behohl a scene like that from Mount IIol- yoke ; but the 3 is a great deal that is line in the appearance of the surrounding country, rough, and interspersed with villages and cultivated tracts, with the Connecticut wiiidiuir ihrou»rfj it. The Gulf Uoad. [Those who are going west- ward from this part of the river, are counselled to take the Gulf Road to Burlington, on Lake Cham- plain, to which a f tage coach runs. Although the route is through the chain of the Green Mountains, the way is remarkably smooth and easy, following the courses of the White and Onion rivers, which have cut deep channels through the rocks.] You have, however, first to go sixteen miles along the western bank of the Connecticut to White River, Here great quantities of lumber are brought down, sawed on the stream, and sent by the Connecticut in rads to the country beh)W. The road up the White River lies along the north bank, and passes through several beautiful and flourishing vilhiges. The valley, though nar- row, wears the same aspect of the Connecticut. This was one of the courses formerly chosen by the Indians of the north in their commerce with those on the borders of that river, before the ar- rival of Europeans; and, with the exception of a short portage, between the White and Onion ri- vers, they brought their furs from Canada by wa- ter. During the Indian and French wais, this route was frequently used for more hostile pur- poses ; and captives were taken from these settle- ments so late as the Revolutionary war. The scenery is interesting and various all along the route. 21 1' ; 1 y mi , 250 ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVER. iff'. ■ ff: Roi/altorij a pretty villagro. This place was burned, Oct. iGth, 1781, l)y MOO men, principally Indians, wiio cunie down iVoin ('anada. They killed two men and took away six prisoners to Montreal. Randolph is considered one of the most beauti- ful towns in Vermont, and a stage coach likewise passes that way. Gulf. The entrance of this remarkable pas- sage from the east, is under the brow of an abrupt mountain, where a branch of White River flows along by the road in a gentle current. The Gulf road extends six miley, and the ground is so level that it has been proposed to make it the course of a canal. On the height of land is a pond, from which flows a stream into the valley. Part of it joins the White River, and part the Onion River, Montpelier is the capital of Vermont, and a very pretty town. It contains the State House^ a Court House, an Academy, and other public buildings.* , III]. * History of the State. — Thfi first discovery of Vermont was made in 1C09, by Samuel Champlain, who, alter estc-blishing n colony at Wuebec, proceeding up the rivers St Lawrence and fciu'pl. explored and gavi; his own n:ime to the lake which washes the western part of the state. In 1724, the govfcrnment of Massachusetts erected Fort Du'i-mer, in thutowu of Brattleborough, on Connecticut river The first settlement in the wes- tern part of the state was commenced by the French in i731, in the town of Addison, and at the same time they erected a fort at Crown Point. The government of New-Hampshire began to make grants of townships within the present limits of Vermont in 1749. at which time the scttlem nt of Bennington was commenced, and at the same time a violent controver- sy ensued between the New-Hampshire grants and the provin e of New- Yorii. Tlie first converitio!) ol the state met it Dorset, in 177c, and the fir^^t constitution was adopted by a coiivoution assendded at Windsor in July, 1777, but the organization of the government did not take place un- til March, 1778. The diificuities between Vermont and New- York were amicably 86t- ace was inci pally . They oners to 5t beauti- likewise able pas- an abrupt iver flows he ground vdke it the is a pond, ley. Part the Onion |ont, and a House, a er public nt was Made in ony at Uuebec, (1 and gavb his f the state. In ner,in thctowu fieut in the wes- 31, in the town t Crown Point. Its of townships e the scttlem nt )lent controver- oviii e of New- n 1776, and the at Windsor in take place un- e amicably set- ,..■ n I I DARTMOUTH COLLEGE. 251 From Montpelier to Burlington, the road pur- sues the course; of Onicjii Riv!. Avres, itgomery massacre the deep- icers and ere heads i^ere also ng placed uth of the 1 built by obelisk, ENCE. ;, about 4 yORT HILL. 2&7 miles east from this place, and a Pequod Fort formerly occupied its summit. The road crosses it near the southern limit of the fort, ami a small church stands a quarter of a njile above, within the extensive space once enclosed by that palisa- ded work. It was the great fortress of the terri- ble Pequod nation, which makes a very conspic- uous figure in the early history of the eastern colonies. They had fought their way from the interior, and seated themselves in the present lim- its of Groton, where the few poor remains of their descendants still are found. On the arrival of the English, they had extended their conquests a con- sitierable distance up Connecticut River, and the Eastern and Western Nehantics on the coast were subject to them. In consequence of the murders they had com- mitted, and the att-tcks with which they threat- ened the infant settlements at Hartford, Windsor, and WethersfieM, the inhabitants formed an expe- dition in the spring of 1637, led by Capt. Mason, attacked their other fort on the Mystic, burnt it, and killed about 600 persons : after which the na- tion fled from their country ; and having suffered another terrible slaughter in the swamp at Fair- field, were reduced to slavery, and ceased from that time to be an object of terror. This hill commands an extensive and delightful view of Long Island and the Sound, with various islands, bays, and points on the Connecticut coast. At the time of the burning of Mystic Fort, it was occupied by the chief Sachem Sassarus, who has- tened to the relief of his subjects, but arrived too late to render them any assistance. On his return ■'/S I I 111! I 111' I 268 ROUTE FROM NEW-YORK TO BOSTON. here, he burnt the wigwams and palisadoes, and immrdialely fl^d for refuge to the Mohawks, by whom he was beheaded. Mystic, 1\ miles. Stonington, \0 mWes, On descending the hill which leads into this village, Porter's Rock, 30 or 40 feet high, is seen a liule off the road on the right-hand. Under the shelter of it Capt. Mason encamped with his little army, on the night of May 26, 1637, old style, a few hours before his successful attack on the se- cond Pequod Fort, which was on the top of a hiil about two miles south of this place. During the last war, a small fort in this town was attacked by a ship and two brigs of Com. Hardy's squadron, and defended by the inhabitants with great gallantry. Hopkinton, 11 miles. West Greenwich, 15 miles. Centreville, 2 miles. [Here are several cotton manufactories.] Providence, 11 miles. {See page 266 ) Steamboat Route from New-London to Norwich. A little above New-Loi'don, is a singular rock, on the eist side, where the explorers of the river are said to have landed, and to have been attacked by the Pequods. The Moheagan country lies above, on the west side, with Horton^s Hill, on the top of which TJneas had a fort, where an In- dian church now stands. It is a very commanding position, and overlooks the surrounding country. During the late war, the government ships Mace- donian, United States, and Hornet, which were in the river, lay moored here for a length of time, and their guns were drawn up by oxen to the top ' i N. TRADING COVE. 259 DCS, and wks, by nto this , is seen nder the his Utile style, a I the se- of a hiil his town of Com. habitants wich, 1 5 1 several I miles. ORWICH. lar rock, the river attacked itry lies Hill, on an In- manding country. 3s Mace- were in of time, the top of tho hill, on the east shore, above the little cove. A smnll battery vas also constructed on the litlle spur projecting from the hill in front. 3 or 4000 militia were stationed on the opposite shore for their further security. Massapeague Voint, just above. Here the river is quite narrow, opening northward into a smiill lake. There is a small island on the eastern shore, on which is a stone cottage, built by the soldiers for a poor family which resided here during the war. It lies at the entrance of a pretty cove, which makes up a mile, called Kiali's Cove. Com- modore Decatur brought the ships up here, for still greater security ag?iinst the British cruising off New-London harbor. Above this place, the river has been impeded by sand, washed down by the Shetucket River, and attempts have been made to remedy it by building piers. Trading Ccve^ 1 mile above, is a handsome little bay, making up into the Indian country, and derived its name from the barter formerly carried on here between the white men and the Moheagans. Uncas, the Sachem of Moheagan, was believed to be of Pequod descent, but in a state of successful revolt at the time the English became acquainted with him. His chief residence was near this cove, now the centre of the Indian Reservation ; but the burying ground of the royal family was near Nor- wich Landing (which is in sight from this place.) He had conquered the country as far north as about the present Massachuscits line, but became an early friend of the whites, and rendered them important services, particularly in war, as did hit successors, the later Moheagan Chiefs. r r n ti h m ii r w u '11 'J w ! I: f I ■ i f.\ f\ ' i 260 ROUTB FROM NEW-YORK TO BOSTOlf. Before this part of the state was settled, Uncas was once so closely besiej^ed by his enemies the Pequods, that he siiil'ered txiremely from a scar- city ot provisions, and was rtditved by a man na- med Lelfingwell, who was despatched from Con- necticut with a boat h)aded with provisions. In gratitude, Uncus gave him a large part of the pre- sent town of Morwich for this iniportant service. There is a rock still pointed out on the shore, and called Uncas' Chair, wh(Me tlie Sachem is said to have set and watched the arrival of his friends. Fort Hill derived its name from a small stone fort, erected in old times by the Indians. The poor remains of this tribe reside on the lands se- cured to them by the state government, and live in all the ignorance, idleness, and thrifllessness common to Indians in this part of the country : melancholy testimonies of the desjradation to which the most active human minds may sink when eve- ry impulse to exertion has been stifled, and no new incitement extended. NORWICH contains three villages, of which Chelsea Landing is the principal, and is remark- able for its sini^id ir situation, as well as for its appearance of business, which is much favored by the numerous manufact(»ries in the neighboring country. The Plain is about a mile north, and a very pleasant place. On the way thither is seen the Cove, at the up- per end of which are the Falls of Yantic, which pours over a ledge of granite about 40 feet high, and supplies several manufactories with water. A rock, 70 or 81) feet in height, overhangs the stream, whence a number of Narragansett Indians ! I, XJncas Dies the [1 a scfcir- man na- om Con- DPS. In the pre- service. lore, and } said to ".ends, all stone IS. The lands se- and live filessness country : to which hen eve- aud no of which remark- is for its vored by ghboring th, and a [t the up- !c, which 2t high, |h water, langs the It Indians NORWICH. 261 once precipitated themselves when pursued by the Moheagans. The Burying Ground of the Uncases is on the elevated b^»llk north of the Cove, on the grounds of Judjnre Goddard. There are stones marking the graves of numerous members of the royal family of the Moheagans, and a few of them bear English inscriptions. The family is now extinct. Uncas, the old friend of the white men, is buried here. He and his nation were the only steady allies they ever foun*^ among the Indians, steady and powerful enough to render them very essen- tial service. He was a man of extraordinary tal- ent, and w^ithal extremely politic; but he refused to join the general insurrection under King Philip in 1675. This plain was the principal summer residence of the Moheagans, The FloMuel Factory is 14G feetby 40, 5 stories high, with a bleaching house, and dying house, and makes 5000 yards a week. There are also the Carpet^ Pottery, Paper, and other factories. The Cotton Many factory \^ at the mouth of the Yantic, and the suiu expended in buildings and machinery very great. About a million ai»d a half of dollars have been invested here. 1600 bales of cotton were manu- factured annually, producing more than a million yards of cloth ; 5 or (iOO tons of iron made into nails, nail-rods, &;c. and 150 or 200 tons of cast- ings made from pig iron. 10,000 reams of paper have been made in a year, besides machinery, linseed oil, &c. Here are two school-houses and two churches. CanaL Surveys were made in 1825 for a Canal 22 »: m. i m^ '/"It" ■1 frf.l 282 ROUTE FROM NEW-YORK TO BOSTON. to run from Norwich parrellc! to Connecticut Ri- ver, up the Quinchiiugh River to Massachusetts. The supply of water is consiihneil abundant at all seasons, and the tract of country through which it is to pass extretnrly favoiable. It is to pass through Springheld, Pahri . estern, Brookfield, Sturbridge, Southbridgc, and Dudley, to the Quinebaugh. Road from Norwich to Providence. Thri road follows the course; of the Quinebaugh River for some distance, through a hilly tract of country, and near a fine cataract in that stream. At tho distance of 1^ miles from Norwich, it passes Sachem's Field. This is an elevated plain, on which a battle was fought in the year 1643, be- tween about 900 iNarragansetts, (who inhabited Rhode Island,) and 500 or 600 Moheagans. The Sachem of the former, Miantonimo, intending to chastise Uncas for his adherence to the English, secretly advanced into his country with an army; but Uncas was aware of his approach, and met him on this plain where both parties halted. Uncas stepped forward alone, and challenged Miantoni- mo to decide the quarrel single handed. This, as as he expected, was refused ; and while his ene- mies were not prepared, he gave a signal by. fall- ing down, when his men instantly sat up a yell, discharged their arrows, and rushed forward. The Narragansetts fled, and many of them were killed. Uncas captured Miantonimo himself, but the haughty Indian would not ask for quarter nor speak a word. He was taken to Hartford, and after a trial, was delivered to Uncas for execution. NEWPORT. 263 :icut Ui- :husetts. int at all h which to pass ooklield, to the ICE. inebaugh ' tract of t stream, •wich, it plain, on 643, be- inhabited hs. The nding to English, in army; met him Uncas liantoni- This, as his ene- by- fall- p a yell, ril. The •e killed, but the rter nor ford, and xecution. He was brought buck to this place, and while marching across the field was tomahawked on a spot a little east of the road, where a hrap of stcmes for muny yi^ars marked the place of his burial. JeweWs City is a small manufacturing place, 7 miles from Norwich. Plainfield is a pleasant village; the inn is large and good, and overlooks a fertile plain, through which is the route of the proposed canal to Brook field, Mass. On crossinir the line to Rhode Island, the coun- try becomes uninteresting. There are no villages deserving of the name, and there is nothing worthy of particular notice, except one or two small man- ufactories. Providence. See pas^e 266. JNEWPOllT. This place possesses one of the best harbors in the United States. The entrance is guarded by the Dumplings Fort and Fort Adams; and the scenery about it is agreeable. Fort Adams^ on Brenton's Point, is o le of the most important fortresses in the great plan of coast defences, which have been for some years in the progress of construction. It was to cost, on an estimate, ,^170,000, and to embrace an extent of l30 acres. A range of i:uns is to line the shore towards the west, as far down as the first rising ground. The outer wall will be 40 feet in height, and extend nearly three quarters of a mile, enclos- ing about 19 acres. The works will mount 150 cannon, in connexion with the redoubt on a neigh- boring hill. The foundations and trenches have been cut into rock or hard clay, with a range of subterranean galleries. 264 ROUTE FKOM NEW-YORK TO BOSTON. Other works, in connexion with Fort Adnms, are pro[)ose(l on the ()[)j)nHitc shore, th(^ DuMijiIiiitr Islands, &c. which would re nder ihc [)(nt sj*ciirc as the principal rendezvouri (or our navy north of the Chesapeake. If not entirely tjcciire from a land attack, the nei6 ROUTE FROM NeW-YORK TO BoSTOK. I MP) I i I: Si.: dence Island^ which is about five miles in length, and presents t\\e nairic fertile soil and gently swell- ing surface as Rhode Island. The inhabitants are few, as are those of Patience and Hope, islands of a nnuch smaller size. Despair is a cluster of rocks on the left, near the island of Hope, the north end of whicli is 20 miles from Provid(*nce« An cxteiisive mine of anthracite, or incombusti- ble coal, was opened a few years since near the north end of the island, in Portsmouth, about two miles from Bristol Ferry. The vein is about 4200 feet one way, 115 ano- ther, and 4 feet in thickness. It lies on an inclined plane; and thre3 other veins are supposed to be of equal extent. The excavations are liable to be flooded in wet weather, by which the working has been a good deal impeded. PROVIDENCE. This is the second city in New-England, both in population, wealth, and beauty* It contained in 1830, 16,833 inhabitants, and is beautifully as well as advantageously situated at the head of naviga- tion, on the river of the same name. It contains several handsome churches, a theatre, an arcade, (on Westminster-street,) and many fine houses. In boring the earth in this town, in 1828, from the end of the earth, the auger passed through the artificial soil — -then through a stratum of mud — then through bog meadow, containing good peat- then through sand pebbles atid quartz gravel. At this point water impregnated with copperas and arsenic broke forth; next struck a vineyard and drew up vines, grapes, graj)e seeds, leaves, acorns, hazleuutSy pine burs, and seeds of unknown fruits, ;!!i';* 1 length, lly swell- itants are slands of ' of rocks lorth end iombusti- near the ibout two ll5 ano- n inclined sf!(l to be able to be jrkinghas d. both in tained in Iv as well f naviga- contains arcade, ouses. •28, from ouffhthe f mud — d peat — vel. At eras and ard and , acorns, n fruits, Taunton. ^67 together with pure water. This was 35 feet beloW the bed of the river ! Brown University is built on the summit of a high hill, the ascent to whicb is not very easy, al- though it is laid out in street?, decorated with some of the finest houses in this part of the coun- try, dispersed among spacious gavtlcns, and ming^ ling the delights of the country with the splendour of a citv. There are two brick buildinos belong* ing to this institution, which command a fine prospect. The town was settled by Roger Williams, who left the older colonies in consequence of a disa- greement in religious doctrines. He built his house on the shore, near the present E; iscopal church. Many of the society of Quakers or Friends afterward joined him, whose descendants form a large share of the population of the stale. The Academy is a large institution, near the College, established by the Friends. Th*" schools of Rhode Island were in a very low condition from the earliest times until 1828, when ^10,000 annually was appropriated to them, and the 31 towns were allowed to double their propor- tion by a tax, which they have done. In 1831, $21,490 was expended : there were 323 schools, and 17,034 children taught. There are several academies, &c., the principal of which is the Friends' Boardinji: School at Providence, estab- lished by the Yearly Meeting of New-England, directed bv Professor Griscom, with 1 17 male and 70 female pupils. [Taitnton, 32 miles from Boston, next above Dighton. A great quantity of cotton is manufac- tured here, and there are extensive works in iron. '] .1' ■ i-iti w 268 ROUTE FROM NEW-YORK TO BOSTON. The power is supplied by five dams on the west branch of Taunton river. The highest manufac- tories of the river are built of wood ; the next of stone; the third of brick. There are two brick dams ; and the printing establishment is among the last. There is also a manufactory of Britannia ware, &c. Sampson's Hotels, at Marlborough Ponds, is a pleasant resort, half way to New-Bedford.] Manufactories in New-England. There were said to be in 1828, about 400 buildings in this sec- tion of the United States, devoted to the spinning, weaving, and printing of cotton ; 135 for Mas- sachusetts ; 110 for Rhode Island; 80 for Con- necticut; 60 for New-Hampshire ; 15 for Maine ; 10 for Vermont, They were supposed to contain on an average 700 spindles : which gives a total of 280,000. They worked perhaps 280 days in a year, and used 140 lbs. of raw cotton to each spindle ; which would give a total of 39,200,000 lbs., or 98,000 bales. In one third of the manu- factories the weaving was done by power looms ; in one third by hand ; and the others sent their yarn to the middle and southern states, where it was woven by hand under contractors, or in families. Not more than 275 cotton manufactories were supposed to be in operation in the remaining parts of the United States. Blackstone Canal, which was completed in 1828, and extends to Worcester, Mass. runs along the course of the Blackstone River for several miles. That stream is seen on leiving Providence, and lies west of the road to Boston. The canal is 45 miles long, 18 feet wide at the bottom, and 34 1>AWTUCKET. 269 r I 1 "I e west anufac- next of ) brick among •itannia is, is a 1 re were his sec- )i lining, jr Mas- or Con- Maine ; contain . total of ys in a ,o each 300,000 i manii- looms ; t their here it amilies. es were g parts leted in IS along several ridence, icanal is and 34 feet at the surface. There are 48 locks, all bnilt of stone, whirh overcome n rise ami fall of 150 feet. The size of the locks is 82 feet in length, and 10 in breadth ; and the cost of the whole work was about ,$550,000. The water is chiefly derived from the Blackstone river ; but there are large ponds at different parts of the route, which can be drawn upon at any time. The road between Providence and Pawtucket, 4 miles, is one of the best in the United States; as the law requires that all the income above 10 per cent, shall be devoted to repairs; and the tra- velling is very great. It is hard and smooth, and is to be furnished with a convenient side-walk the whole distance. Pawtucket is one of the largest manufacturing places in this part of the country. The banks of the river are varied and somewhat romantic; while the fall, which is under the bridge, furnishes a most valuable water power. Cotton is principally manufactured here, though there is machinery de- voted to other purposes. The first spinning by machinery in this country was done on a very small machine in J 785, in Providence. Attleborough, The inn stands on the spot once occupied by a block house, built on the frontier of the Indian country before Philip's war. Opposite is an old burying ground, which contains the body of the first man killed here by the savages. The largest button manufactory in the United States is in this town. Walpole, Here the stage coaches usually stop to dine or breakfast. Dedham, 10 miles from Boston, is a large and d. ^ * ■fv 1 • I '■ i i' ■U4' •■ ^70 ROUTE PROM NEW-YORK TO BOSTON. t I f, ■ i PluJi beautiful village, with regular and well built streets, and some quite elegant houses. Fisher Ames liV" ed in the second house on the left hand, as you enter the village. [Blue Hills, This is a pleasant retreat, about 7 miles from the city of Boston, and much resorted to in the summer season; as a large house of en- tertainment has been erected at the foot of the mountain, whence the place derives its name; and the summit, which is considered 800 feet above the level of the ocean, commands a fine and exten- sive view. A small house has also been built on the top, where the view is the finest, for the tem- porary repose and supply of visiters. On the northern side, the view embraces, in a clear day, the Green Mountains in Vermont, and the White Mountains in New-Hampshire, with a wide extent of country between : Nahant, and in general, all Boston Bny, is seen eastvvardly, and near at hand.] The hills are seen on the right from the road, a few miles south of Boston. Quincy Railway. This is the first work of the kind which was constructed in the United States. It is 3 miles long, and leads from the quarries of granite to navigable water, for the transportation of stone to Boston. The descent from the com- mencement to the wharf is B(5 feet. This railway was opened for use on the 16ih September, 1 826, and has been sinoe constantly used for the transportation of granite. One horse has drawn 22 tons, including the weight of the two wagons, from the quarry down to the wharf; but the ordinary load of a horse is from 12 to 15 tons. Roxbury, On the neck which leads to Boston, we pass the remains of the entrenchments thrown Mi CITY OF BOSTON. je?t streets, [les liV" as you '» about esorted ! of en- of the rie ; and t above ] exten- built on he lem- On the Bar day, 5 White e extent eral, all t hand.] ; road, a k of the States, irries of ortation e com- vay was and has ation of eluding quarry a horse Boston, I thrown tip by General Washington, in 1776, to shut the British troops up in the town ; and a little beyond them is the place where General Gage previously drew up his line across, to command the commu- nication between it and the country. The coun- try on both sides retains marks of the American forts, redoubts, &c., and Dorchester Heights on the east are crowned with the works thrown up by Washington, which commanded Boston and the anchorage ; and forced the enemy to evacuate the place. Embarking here in their fleet, they went around to Long Island, and soon after enter-» ed New- York. BOSTON. Hotels* Tremont House.* The Exchange. Marlborough Hotel, &c. Boston contains an uncommon proportion of fine buildings, particularly private residences: for it not only possesses much wealth, but also much taste and public spirit. The finest buildings are of whitish granite, brought from the shores of the Merrimack River, being found in abundance at diflferent places, from Chelmsford to Concord, N.H. It is transported to Boston by the Middlesex canal, and is not only beautiful and lasting, but obtained at a moderate price. It is found very durable when exposed only to the elements ; but fire soon disintegrates and ruins it. The Quincy granite is also excellent. The Athenosum, Under the patronage of weal- * Tremont House is the most splendid hotel in tlie United States. It makes a fine appearance, contains 180 rooms, and is conducted on an ex- cellent pl.in. A part of the establishment is appropriated to private par- ties and f:imili' s, and has a distinct access, ti)rouf,'h a difTercut street, with no communication with the main body c^'the building. It ^y.u ;* ■ ti 272 CITY OF BOSTON ■ ix i:.i i thy and generous friends of the arts and sciences, for whom Boston has long been conspicuous, this va^dable collection of books, coins, and medals, has hy rapid degrees risen to a grade of eminence among the libraries of tlie country. In addition to the nun^'^rous and voluminous works before in the possession of the institution, subscriptions have been made within a few years to procure complete copies of the transactions of the Koyal Societies aad Academies of Sciences in London, Edinburgh, Dublin, Paris, Petersburg, Berlin, Tu- rin, Gottingen, Stockholm, Copenhagen, Madrid, and Lisbon. Any person, by paying SIO a year, may enjoy the liberty of reading books in the rooms of this institution ; but only proprietors and life subscribers have the privilege of taking them away. The library however is free to stran- gers introduced by proprietors, and may then be visited by them akne at any time. Most of the valuable periodical magazines of Europe are regu- larly received; as well as those of the United States, and newspapers from all parts of the coun- try. The Exhibition and Lecture rooms are in a building in the rear. The Academy of Arts and Sciences have a room on the first floor, and there is a picture gallery on the second. The Market is constructed of granite, and is of the following dimensions : a centre building 74J feet by 55, with wings, extending in all 53(i feet, with a fine facade at each end, with granite co- lumns of single pieces, 21 feet high, and weighing each 14 or 15 tons; a row of granite buildings on each side, 4 stories high, for stores, more than 500 feet. CITY OF BOSTON. 273 -I ciences, Diis, ihis dais, has minence addition before in criptions procure le Koyal London, 3rlin, Tu- , Madrid, a year, s in the roprietors of taking ; to stran- kr then be ost of the are regu- e United the coun- s are in a Arts and and there and is of Iding ni 536 feet, :anite co- weighing ildings on iore than In State-street are the Banks, Insurance Offices, and 'Change. The Common is a fine piece of ground, on the south-western side of the city, and one of its great- est ornaments. The surface is agreeably varied by a few gentle undulations, and it is decorated with rows of handsome dwelling houses on two sides, while on the third it is bounded by the bay of Charles River, and affords an extensive view in that direction, embracing a tract of cultivated hilly country. The State House is the principal object seen in approaching the city, and stands on a con- siderable eminence at the north side of the Com- mon. It has a double range of columns in front of the main building, and a large dome on the top, to which a somewhat intricate staircase leads, affording the most extensive view of Bos- ton and the surrounding country which is to be found. Chantrey^s Statue of Washington. In this beautiful specimen of the genius and skill of the greatest British sculptor, Boston possesses a trea- sure. It was finished and sent to America in 1 8*27, and a nev/ apartment was constructed for its recep- tion, adjoining the Doric Hall in the State House.. The total expense of the statue and building amounted to about $16,000. The sculptor receiv- ed of this $10,000. The entrance from the Hall into the edifice is through arched passages, which af!brd the visiter a full view in approaching and from various points. The hills at Dorchester, Roxbury, Brighton, 23 i Ml ■'M m iiii ■m 274 CITY OF BOSTON. Cambridge, Cliariestown,* &c, together with the numerous islands which protect the harbor, form an amphitheatre, very regular and beautiful, when seen from the top of the State House ; and the villages which are seen in every direction, almost entirely line the shore. The Navy Yard, at Charlestown, encloses 60 acres, and enjoys many advantages in its situation.. It has a high stone wall on the north ; and near the water stand a large warehouse of brick, seve- ral arsenals, magazines of stores, the residence of the superintendent, and three very large ship- houses, each large enough to hold a hundred-gun vessel, with the stages, 6i.c» The Dry Dock is very large. The foundation is made with piles, driven three feet apart, supporting layers of timber, plank, and stone. The stone work v/iil amount to about 500,000 cubic feet. Gen. Gage, in 177.^, ran a breastwork across Roxbury neck, which is very narrow, in order tQ command the only land communication with the neighboring country, and then continued those acts of oppression upon the people^ which exasperated the colonies so much against him. Contributions v;ere sent in for their relief from all parts of the colonies. On the l7th of June, 1775, while the forces which had repaired to this threatened scene had their head-quarters at Cambridge, a body of men, prin- cipally formed of detachments from Massachusetts and New-Hampshire regiments, having fortified themselves on 13reed's Hill, (an eminence of about * At Charlestown is the State Prison, which has lately been greatly im- proved, ou the best plaus. CITY OF BOSTON. 275 ith the r, form , wheQ ind the almost 3ses 60 tuation.. id near k, seve- lence of re ship- Ired-gun Dock is th piles, f timber, nount to c across order tQ ivith the ose acts operated ibiitions ts of the les which lad their jeii, prin- ichusetts fortified of about greatly im- 70 feet, behind Charlestown,) manfully disputed the ground with the British troops sent over from Boston to occupy it. The loss was great on both sides, particularly on that of the assailants, who were driven back in three attacks. The boldness of these raw troops, and the success with which they so long withstood the charges of the regulars, were of the utmost use, by encouraging the coun- try, and by convincing the EnglissJi that they were fighting a powerful foe. The battle usually goes by the name of Bunker's Hill; but should, in strict propriety, be called after Breed's Hill, as the latter is a distinct eminence, although, perhaps, a spur from the former. \ The British landed near a point, just beyond where the navy yard is now seen ; and the Ameri- can defences consisted of a small earth redoubt on the top of Breed's Hill, and a double rail fence, stuffed with new hay, extending from it to the wa- ter. Some remains of^these works are still to be traced. A British sloop of war lay, during the action, in Mystic River, beyond the navy yard, and kept up a cross fire upon the low neck, which con* nects the peninsula of Charlestovvn with the main- land. The 17th of June, 1825, the fiftieth anniversary of this battle, was commemorated with very ap- propriate ceremonies ; and the corner stone of a monument was laid in an angle of the old redoubt, on Breed's Hill, with Masonic ceremonies. A large number of Revolutionary officers and soldiers as- sembled ; and the monument is to be erected at the expense of piivate contributions. Bunker Hill Monument, The base (a mass of (■• It y ill '^ 276 CITY OF BOSTON* m 14,000 tons weight,) is laid 13 fret deep, and lidsl six courses of stone to the surface — t()e first of which is 50 feet on each side. Above this a pyra- midal obelisk, i^O feet square, is to rise tapering, 2l3 feet 4 inches on the ground, and to be 15 at the top. It will be composed of 80 courses of stone, each 2 feet 8 inches thick. A winding stone stair- case in the inside will lead to the suninnt, whence the view will be fine and highly interesting. The whole is to be built of granite from Quincy. The largest block in it is said to be of the following di- mensions : 1 1 feet long, 5 broad, 2 feet 8 inches high, with a weight of ten tons. After the battle of Bunker's Hill, the Continent- al troops were drawn in a^more complete line around the town of Boston ; and numerous in- trenchments may still be traced out on most of the hills in the vicinity : but it was not till Gen. Wash- ington succeeded in occupyingDorchester Heights, which command the harbor and town from the south-east, that the British embarked in their ships, and evacuated the place. Dorchester Heights were occupied on the night of March 4, 1 770. Eight hundred inen formed the van ; then followjed carriages, and 1200 pioneers under Gen. Thomas, 300 casts of fascines and ga- bions, and guns in the rear. Two forts were form- ed by 10 at night, one towards the city, and the other towards Castle Island. Preparations were made for an attack by the British, and for defence by the Americans ; but the weather prevented the design of the former, wlio consisted of 10,000, and they embarked for New-York. The town was pil- laged, 9nd 1500 loyalists removed. It was evacu- CITY O* BOSTON. 277 ■■] ind bftiJ firat of a pyra- pering, 5 at the f stone, ne stair- whence T. The I, The wing di- J inches jntinent- lete line roas in- )St of the n. Wash- Heights, rom the eir ships, Lhe night Irmed the pioneers and ga- re form- and the us were defence nted the ,000, and was pil- ,s evaci\- aled and possessed, March 17: ammunition, &lc, being left by tiie Britisih. The Massachusetts General Hospital is near the Charleslown Biidge. Bridges, Some of the most sM*ilvini>- objects in the neighborhood of Boston, are the bridges which lead from it to various points. There are no h.'ss than five principal ones, besides several branches. The expense at which they have been constructed and are kept in repair is very great, and they fur- nijsh great facilities for strangers desirous of ma- king excursions to the surrounding country. Education, Schools have existed in New-Eng- land from early tin||s, being supported by law and free to all classes. % law was passed by the col- ony of Massachusetts in 16 — that a school should be kept six months in the year, in every town or district of 50 families, (or if several schools some- thiTg equivalent to 6 months instruction ;) in those of 100 families, 12 months; 150 families, 18 months ; and that the towns shall raise bv tax the funds necessary for their support. A committee of 3, 5, or 7 men superintends the schools in each town. About j^pne person out of 3J in the state attends a publfe or private school ; and in 1832 only ten persons were found unable to read. There are 62 incorporated academies or high schools in the state, supported by public ami private endow- ments : the oldest and best endowed of which, is Phillip's Academy at Andover. There are also many flourishing Academies unincorporated. The public schools of Boston are in some respects the best in the Union. The primary schools are how- ever generally defective. There are about 7500 23* t i n ■ m S78 CITY Of BOSTON. children instructed in the public schools in Boston^ as follows— There are seven Grammar schools, in which were about 50(> pupiln. There were 200 boys in the Latin school, and l40 in the High (school. The 67 primary schools contained, in 1828, :M36 children between 4 and 7 years of age^ taught by females, &,c. 6lc. In some of these the monitorial system has been introduced. The pub- lic expense incurred in instructing nearly 7600 children is $54,500 annually. There have since been eslablislied several Infant schools, under the direction of a societj of ladies. The Farm School^ a little out of the city, is A sort of House of Refuge, cofnected with a farm* which has been conducted with very satisfactory success, and is worthy of a visit. An Asylum for the Blind is established in Bos- ton. Villages, The vicinity of Boston presents a succession of villages, proljably not to be paralleh^d for beauty in the United States. They are gene- rally the residence of a number of the most opu- lent citizens during the pleasant seasons, and many of the buildings are fine and expensive. The grounds are also frequently laid out with great taste^ and highly cultivated ; so that no stranger, who has leisure, should fail to take a circuit through them, at least for a few miles.* The public coaclies may be found convenient. There are several manufac- * The U. S. Marine Hospital at Chelsea opposite Boston, is a fin^ buildini?, erected out of the Hospital collected from seamen in the mer- chant service. It is 105 feet long, 50 wide, three stories high, and cost $30,000. Here temporary relief is afff ROUTES FROM BOSTON. ins. Notbin'T but tbe assistance of M as- n'ovisioi sasoit preserved tbern from extinction. Sandwich, a favorite resort for fisbing and sea air, is a few miles below Plymoutb. There is a good inn kept by Mr. Swift. Routes from Boston Coaches go in so ma- ny directions, that a choice may be made between a great many, all of them pleasant; in setting out for a tour to the westward, or towards the city of New-York : In the first place, the noble scenery of the White Hills may be taken in the way to Lake Cham- plain, Canada, the Springs, or Niagara; or in making the more circumscribed route of Connec- ticut River. Next, th.)se who choose a more di- rect way, may avail themselves of the road through Concord, Keene, and Windsor ; or its branches to Charlestown or Walpole. The last is now much travelled, as it is one of the shortest routes be- tween Boston and the Springs, and leads through a number of interesting places. Besides these, are the roads to Albany or the Springs, through the following different places : Brattleborough, Hloody Brook, Greenfield, Northampton, (and New-Lebanon ;) Springfield and Hartford. To strang(;rs it will be proper to remark once more, that the route of Connecticut River presents at once a scene of fertility, population, good habits^ and intelligence, on the whole, superior to any other tract of country, of equal extent, in the U. States; with correspondent accommodations for travellers. The scenery is rich and varying, and cannot fail to please, wherever it is seen : but those who can first pass througli the Notch in the White Moun-^ "W o( Mas- and sea ere is a so ma- jetween ting out ; city of e White Charn- ; or in Connec- nore di- through branches pw much utes be- through s these, through borough, )n, (and •d. To e more, sents at habits, |ny other States ; lavellers. imot fail Iwho can Moua- BROOKFIELD. 283 tains, will find its beauties greatly enhanced by the contrast. Since the devastation caused by the flood in 1826, the road has been so much repaired as to be very good; and great imj>rovements have been made at E. A. Crawford's, in the ascent of Mount Washington, and in accommodations. At Hadley and Northampton, is the most beautiful pdrt of the whole river; and for the other routes, we can only refer to the Index for the descriptions of the principal towns through which thry pass. East of Boston, the country is of a different, and too often of an opposite character, presenting few objects of importance, except the seaports through wnich the chief road passes. There is a line of Steamboats to Maine and ^eW' Brunswick. The Road to Portland and through the most populous part of the state of Maine will be given ; but being of less inierest to most travellers from this city, will be placed towards the end of the volume, while we turn our attention to the princir pal routes leading west and north from Boston. To Albany, through Worcester, North* AMPTON, AND LEBANON SPRINGS. Watertown, like almost all the villages in the vicinity of Boston, presents many neat country seats and an aspect of rural beauty and fertility. Framingham. — Here is a large and well kept hotel, where the stage coaches stop, and a place of great resort. (20 m. from Boston ) Worcester, 20 m. (See Index.) Leicester, 9 m. Spencer, 6 m. Brookfield was settled Nov. 10, 1665; and for several years the only towns on the west were 11 .: I .;. ;* 'i i; ill i 1 11 284 WE3T BROOKFIELD. Hadley, Northampton, &c. while there was no white settlement between it and Canada. The stage coach passes over a long hill in West Brook- field, which was the place where the settlement began. A few yards west of a white house on the north side of the road, was a house built for de- fence, called the Fort. In August, 1675, this place was suddenly beset by several hundred sava- ges. The inhabitants had been imposed upon by the appearance of friendliness shown by the Has- senemesit Indians, and on their way to iheir fort, a few miles distant, were ambushed and pursued, so that they barely escaped. The house in which they all assembled was besieged, and was several times in imminent danger. On one occasion a cart, loaded with hemp, &c. and set on fire, was pushed up to the house with long poles, when a sudden shower came up, in time to extinguish the flames. The fortunate arrival of Capt. Mosley, with a small troop ol horsemen, delivered the in- habitants. All the houses having been burned, and the war soon beginning to rage with violence, the settlement was evacuated. West Brookfieldj at the bottom of the hill, is pleasantly situated, with several ponds in the neighborhoo(', which, wiih the fish and fowl they furnished, were the principal attraction of the savages, who were very numerous in this tract of country. These ponds give rise to the Quabaug river, which, after a course of some miles, takes the name of Chicopee, and joins the Connecticut at Springfield. Four miles east of Brookfield you reach a height of land, which affords a varied and extensive view, ROUTE FROM BOSTON. 285 was no I. The Brook- tlcment B on the for de- 75, this ed sava- upon by he Has- leir fort, pursued, in which 3 several ;casion a fire, was when a ruish the Mosley, the in- burned, dolence, with a succession of hilly country immediately around you. Ware Factory Village is situated in a little valley, with an excellent inn. Belcher town, 9 miles. AmhersU 7 miles. The shortest road to North- ampton does not pass the College, (See Index.) Hadley, 5 miles. 24 \i ill'' m i " 11.' ^1 ,'y 1. II' v^ \ hill, is in the [)wl they of the tract of Juabaug :s, takes neclicut a height Ive view, iu 5 ( i ;1 W' m '^6 BOSTON TO THE WHITE M0UJJTAIN8. ROUTE FROM BOSTON TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. The first day's journey is to Concord or D jer, both in New-Hampshire. The former route is recommended. There are three roads to Concord, on all which there are sta^e coaches. (All necessary informa- tion concerning them, can be readily obtained at the Hotels.) The first is through Cambridge, (where is Har- vard University, see Index,) and Lexington. The second is through Ckarlestown, and joins the other on the Merrimack. The third is through Andover and Haverhill, Mass. The distance is from 68 to 70 miles, and the fare $3 50. Besides Uiese there is a boat on the Middlesex Canal, which has heretofore left the upper lucks in Charlestown, (two miles from Boston,) three times a week, and goes to Chelmsford in about nine hours : 28 miles, passage 75 cents. This mode is not particularly recommended. Several places on these roads will be particu- larized. Lexingto?? is remarkable as the place where the first blood was shed in the Revolutionary war. On the 19th of April, 1776, Gen. Gage sent a body of troops from Boston, to seize a powder house at Concord, belonging to the colony; and the inhab- itants were warned of his design, but they unex- pectedly made their appearance at half past 4, coming on at a quick step, within a mile and a 48. ANDOVER. 287 WHITE r D jer, route is ill which informa- tained at e is Har- lon. nd joins laverhill, and the iddlesex er locks ,) three in about IS. This particu- where |ary war. It a body louse at |e inhab- ;y unex- past 4, lie and a quarter of the church. The alarm guns were fired, drums beat, and 50 or 60 militiamen assem- bled on the parade. The British brigade halted about 120 yards from the church to load, and then passing the east end of the building, discovered the Americans, who were ordered at the moment, by their commander, Capt. Parker, to ** disperse, and take care of themselves," but "not to fire.*' As some of them loitered, the British troops rush- ed towards them, huzzaing. Major Pitcairn fired a pistol at them, when about 30 yards distant, after they had been called "rebels," and ordered them to lay down their arms and disperse. An- other officer, who was within a few yards of them, then brandished his sword, and ordered the troops to "fire," which was obeyed at the second order; and the fire being returned, it was kept up on the dispersing men until they had all disappeared. Eight were killed, and ten wounded. (Gen. Gage falsely stated that the British were first fired upon.) After the regulars had fired a volley, from the green behind the church, and given three cheers, they proceeded to Concord. On their return, being hard pressed by sharp shooters, they burned three houses, a shop, and a barn, killed three more men, and wounded one. Andover is a small village, situated on high ground, 20 miles from Boston, and the site of Philips Academy and Theological Seminary, which are three-fourths of a mile east from it, on the summit of the ascent. There are three large brick buildings^ belonging to the Seminary, which make a conspicuous figure fiom diflferent parts of the surrounding country, and command a view of j!t'^' t: .'a i w ii f « J I'. '. i ' 1" I :vH:: i 288 BOSTON TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. great extent, bounded on the west by the Temple Hills in New-Hampshire, backed by the Monad- noc, about 60 miles off; and on the south by the Blue Hills. A little elevation near by affords a view of the Atlantic Ocean, from about Newbury- port to Cape Ann, with part of Salem ; and north- west is a distant peak, which is supposed to be Ascutney, in Vermont. The academical buildings are distinguished by the names of Philips Hall, Bartlett Hall, and the Chapel, In the upper part of the latter is a libra- ry of 5 or 6000 volumes. The Professors' hou- ses are opposite, with a spacious green intervening between the Seminary and the street; and there is also a large inn. The Academy and Seminary are not connected, although they are under the superintendence of the same board. The terra of instruction in the latter embraces three years. The number of students in the former, in 1828, was 108. Haverhill is a small town, pleasantly situated, on the north bank of the Merrimack, the shores of which, for some distance below, present a beauti- ful and fertile slope to the water. A draw-bridge crosses the river, with a roof to protect it from the weather. Lowell, 12 miles from Boston, by the Railroad, This is one of the greatest manufacturing places in the United States, and one of the most aston- ishing rapidity of growth. In 1813 the first cot- ton factory was erected here, which cost only about $3,000. Larger ones were founded in 1818; and two years after, the "Merrimack Man- ufacturing Company" made a purchase of build- \ s. Fern pie Monad- by the ffords a wbury- d north- 1 to be shed by and the a libra- rs' hou- rvening id there ^minary ider the le term e years. 1 1828, iituated, lores of , beauti- I'-bridge Tom the ailroad. [ places i astou- irst cot- ist only nded ill ;k Man- f build- LOWELL. 289 ings and ground. The falls are 30 feet high, and a little below the spot where the Middlesex canal commences, leading to Charlestown, near Boston; and round them the Company improved an old canal, (at the expense of $120,000,) for the sup- ply of their water wheels. There is power enough for 50 factories with 3,600 spindles each. The place is now a large village, laid out with remark- able uniformity. The population in 1830, was 6,474. Lowell is situated at the confluence of Merri- mack and Concord rivers, 25 miles N. W. from Boston ; the foundation of the second factory here, was laid in 1822, at which time there were only 300 inhabitants. The whole amount of capital here invested, is $6J5t»,000. The number of large mills in actual operation, is 19. These mills are each about 157 feet in length and 45 in breadth, of brick, five sto- ries high, each story averaging from 10 to 13 feet, number of spindles, 84,000; looms 3000; 1200 male and 3801) female operatives; cotton used per annum, 20,000 bales. The number of yards of cotton goods of various qualities made annually, 27 million. The quantity of wool ii anufactured annually into cassimeres is about 160,000 pounds, making 150,000 yards. Amount paid for labor to all the operatives, $1,200,000 per annum. New mills are constantly erecting. n,00() tons of An- thracite Coal are annually consumed in the vari- ous establishments, besides other fuel. The great water power is produced by a canal a mile and a half long, 00 feet wide, 8 deep from its commencement above the head of Faw tucket 24* i' > k '■ m t '.. 'I ^ 5^90 BOSTON TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. Falls, on the Merrin^ack, to its end Im Concord river. Entire fall 3*^ feet. The water is taken from this canal by smaller canals, and conveyed to the factories, and thence into the Merrimack. There is room and water power sufficient for 60 more lar^e factories. There is another canal round the falls of the Merrimack, 90 feet wide and 4 deep. 30,000 ]ie^s of powder, of 25 pounds each, are made an- nually at the Concord works, 1 mile from the town. Lowell communicates with Boston by means of the Middlesex Canal and a Railroad. Population 12,000. Chelmsford is one of the principal manufactu- ring places in the United States. Manufactories in New- Hampshire, So recent- ly as 1810 there were but 12 cotton manufactories in this state, with 5955 spindles; and only alout two million yards of woollen, cotton, flaxen, and tow cloth were made in them and in private fariii- lies during that year. Great Falls Village, Nashua Village, in Dunstable, 33 miles from Concord. The fall in the Nashua river is 65 feet, and the power equal to about 65,000 spindles. Dover is one of the principal towns in the state, and contains several manufactories, although the supply of water is by no means abundant at all seasons. About five miles above Dover, at Salmon River Falls, is a village containing four manufactories, of different sizes, from 63 to 390 feet in length, and of five and six stories in height. CONCORD is the capital of New-Hampshire, and a very fine and flourishing town. It is much s. CONCORD. 291 : I Concord is taken onveyed rrimack. t for 60 3 of the 30,000 nade aii- Vom the >ston by [lailroad. mufactu- o recent- ifactories \\y alout en, and ate fariii- es from 65 feet, dies. he state, ugh the t at all in River ictories, length, ipshire, is much the largest the traveller will see before reaching the White Mountains, and for a great distance beyond them. The town is situated principally on one street, which is of a great length and very convenient breadth, with many respectable houses; and runs parallel with the Merrimack, which is at only a short distance on the east. The State House near the middle of the town, surrounded by a handsome stone wall, is built of hewn granite from the quarry, and is a neat edi- fice, 100 feet long, with a large hall on the first floor, and on the second the Senate and Represen- tatives' Chambers, with the committee rooms, state offices, &c. &c. The view from the top is extensive. The State Prison is built at a short distance from the State House, and bears a still greater ap- pearance of solidity and strength. There is an Academy in Concord, with several churches. Farmer p of be about or about jn horse- y, on ac- the road, a mile or nountain, leave bis ff by the Durse to- ree-quar- ust turn summit, scene is le morn- lefl. The down on ake, and (re of the r off' to- vn peaks, nveloped above with forests, excepting their summits, which are generally divested of verdure. Far beyond these appear several loftier peaks, which might be mistaken for the White Mountains, were they vis- ible from this point. An intermediate peak with rocky precipices may be White-faced Mountain. East-North-East. The eye ranges up the spa- cious valley through which lies the way to the White Mountains ; and the road which is to con- duct the traveller seems diminished to the dimen- sions of a garden walk. Chocaway, or Carroway Peakn rises on the left; while the noble ridge of the Ossipee Mountains begins nearer on the right with a beautiful display of farms, interspersed with woodlots and dwellings, which in many pla- ces have encroached far towards the summits, and in others pursue the slope of the fertile uplaiids to the valley at their feet. Numerous elevations ap- pear at a greater distance, and range themselves in lines to complete the perspective of a most magnificent vista. A prominent mountain, scarce- ly less distant, is called Pickwacket Mountain, by the Saco River, near the place where Captain Lovel fought his well-known battle with the In- dians ; and the fine valley between is the country passed over in that fatal expedition, both in the approach and the retreat. East, The view abuts upon the Ossipee Moun- tains, ana no variety is afforded until we turn to the South- South' East, where Winnipiseogee Lake lies charmingly spread out to view, varied by nu- merous points and headlands, and interspersed with beautiful islands. Several distant elevations i I \ i ■. 1 '■ > ' SI V;[' t- 296 BOSTON TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS, appear, and the sloping land just mentioned ex- tends for several miles along the shore, spotted in all directions with large barns and farm-houses. There numerous points run out far into the water, to complete the labyrinths formed by the islands. Guiistock Mountain rises one point east of south, just on the left of which opens the entrance of Merry-meeting Bay. On the right of that is Rat- tlesnake Island, and over this the distant land ap- pears high. South-by-west rises a high hill resem- bling the Ossipee. The South- West and West is agreeably varied with wood-lots and cleared fields, scattered over an undulated surface, which extends for many miles, in some places quite to the horizon, and in others to the broken boundary of tall but distant mountains. In the south-west appear two or three peaks, almost lost in the blue of the sky. Nearly west are several ridges of inferior magni- tude, which, approaching as the eye slowly moves towards the left, at length come near the lake, and disappear behind the neighboring mountains. Long Pond may be distinguished by its shining surface between the west and south, with several other little sheets of water, which lie in tranquility under the shelter of the hills. Winnipiseogee Lake is 501 ft. above the sea and 19 miles in length, from Centre Harbor to Alton, at the south-eastern extremity. Merry-meeting Bay extends 4 miles beyond. Several of the is- lands are large, and ct^ntain good farms, although only two or three of them belong to any town, or pay any taxes. Some of their names are Rattle- snake, Cow, Bear, and Moon Island ; also. Half oned ex- potled in i-houses. le water, ; islands. )f south, trance of it is Rat- land ap- 11 resem- ly varied red over )r many I, and in It distant two or the sky. r magni- y moves ake, and iins. shining 1 several inquility ! sea and o Alton, meeting ' the is- ilthough town, or J Rattle- ID, Half BOSTON TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 297 ;■]■■ Mile, One Mile, Two Mile Island, &.c. &c. None of them contain churches or school-houses. The trout of Winnipiscogce Lake, vary from I to 4 pounds in weight, while those of Squam Lake are between 4 and 10. They are sometimes caught of nearly double this size. The trout fishery is chiefly carried on during the winter, when great quantities are salted for the Boston market. Perch also abound and are remarkably fine. Geology. The sides of Red Mountain are cov- ered with half decomposed granite. (On the south- eastern side of the lake abed of porcelain clay has been discovei d, which is probably derived from a similar source.) The granite is speckled with horneblende and black mica. No rocks arc seen in situ^ except near the summit, where they bear a gentle dip towards the north, and are slightly tinged with reddish quartz and felspar. The hue of the shrubbery in autumn has given the mountain its name. The summit is strewed with loose fragments ; and niusquetoes and black files often abound there. A (e\v days may be spent at Centre Harbor very agreeably, in making excursions in the neighbor- hood, or in sailing unofi the lake, which abounds in the most inferesiing variety of scenes. On leav- ing this place by water, at the distance of five miles, the White Mountains rise into view ab(»ve the in- termediate peaks, and continue in sight quite across the lake. A f t w deer ar^^ still found in s(>me places in th*? neighborhood, but being ))rotected by law, and still more by their scarcity, are very rarely taken. 25 ll "J. m ■ a :!■ Iff'. i| IIP; i i 'I •'■I in i: g? i,ii)iiia!gi I . ■ 298 BOSTON TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. Route from Centre Harbor to Conway. Proceeding north-east from Centre Harbor, you enter the valley between the two chains of moun- tains seen from the top of Red Mountain, and pass through Moultonboro' and Tam worth. The sur- face is irregular, and much of the land uncleared ; but settlements have extended far up the sides of some of the mountains, and farms are occasionally discovered <^uite at the top. The features of the scenery are bold and striking. Eaton fleeting' House. Two miles • orthward- ly from this, Ossipee Lake may be seeik by leav- ing the road ; but it has nothing very interesting in its appearance. Near Atkinson's inn is the Lead Mine, discover- ed three or four years since. A shaft has been sunk about 50 feet, with a horizontal drift, and the ore ;s good. Conway, 6 miles from Eaton. The view of the White Mountains is very fine from this place, pre- senting a succession of lofty ridges, the most dis- tant of which are the peaks of Mounts Washing" ton, Adams, Jefferson, Madison, Monroe, and Quincy, The most prominent elevation on the right, with ivvo summits, is Kearseargp, or Pick- w!»kt;t : a level meudow lies in the foreground, v\ ith an isoJated, woudy hill in the middle, and the Saco River, which rises on Mount Washington, and flows down a narrow valley, with many me- anderin^s, [The White IMountains are interesting, and wor- thy of attention from every side in which they are brought under the traveller's view; aiid if any one should wish to visit them from the town of FRYEBUROH. 299 : I WAY. or, you moun- nd pass lie sur- leared ; sides of jionally of the thward- )y leav- jresting iscover- is been and the i V of the ce, pre- ost dis- ashing- 96, and on the ■ Pick- ;round, and the ington, ly me- ld vvor- ley are if any own of Adams, he may be gratified by pursuing a path not unfrequently trodden before. The mountains pre- sent £ steep acclivity in the direction channelled by numerous avalanches which have rushed down at different periods. The Pinkham road runs at their base : and the New River may be seen, which was thrown out of its natural channel in 1776, by an immense slide, or avalanche ; and has been re- stored to it by that of 1826, whose ravages were so wide-spread and tremendous.] The Chalybeate Spring, 'furn off from the road to the west about 2 miles north of Abbett's inn in Conway, cross the Saco, and enter a field, where if is found. A house is kept in the neigh- borhood by Mrs. M'Millan. The country abounds in scenes attractive to persons of ta^te. A little church is situated in a secluded and romantic val- ley; and the place is destined for a fashionable resort. The place is off the road and may be missed. It is in a valley, with mountains on every side ex- cept the south-east. From near the church, the White Mountains are in siorht. Two or three miles above, the Saco valley bends to the left, and Ellis's River comes dovvn a narrower vale in front. Up the course of this stream was formerly a route by which the highest peaks were ascended. A foot- path leaves it in Adams, and goes on to Shelburne, &LC, It is 7 miles to Hall's, in Bartlett. Fryeburgh, (which may be visiied,) in its ex- tent of six square miles, embraces a rich and beau- tiful valley, secluded on every side by a wild and mountainous range of country. The Saco River, taking its rise on Mount Washington, and flowing '*i ! in 1. 'I'l M : *■ •;:; M r 300 BOSTON TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. tl iroug h the Notcli in tljc White Hilli ei>iotcnin tue wmte Mills, passes down the valley to Conway, where it finds the termina- tion of the southei )i range ; and then turning ab- ruptly to the east, soon i nters the charming mea- dows of Fryeburgh, and performs a serpentine course of no less tiian SQ miles within the limits of the township. The Indian Fort was on a gentle hill at the western side of tlie village, whicli commands a view of the Saco valley six miles up its course, and six miles down. Lovel's Pond is on an isthmus, about one mile south-east from the village, and is memorable as the scene of one of the most severe and disastrous battles in the old partisan warfare against the In- dians. The Portland Road passes along the western side of the pond, and aflbrds a view of it near its north end, the place of the action. In 1725, Captain Lovel was induced to undertake a secret expedition through the wilderness against the Pickwaket tribtfe of Indians, who, instigated by the Frencli, had committed many depredations on the frontier, so that the general court of Massachu- setts had offered 100 pounds each for their scalps. His company consisted of 30 or 40 men, with young Mr, Five for tlieir chaplain, from whom this town received its name. They passed up Winnipiseogee Lake, then to Ossipce Pond, where they built a blockhouse, and placed their stores ; then following up th.e course of the Saco, encanip- ed at the month of Mill Brook at the north-west corner of Level's Pond, on the ni^ht preceding the battle, intending to cross the isthmus, and fall s. THE INUNDATION OP 1826. 301 Pll If , •fil es down termina- ning ab- ng mca- rpentine limits of II at the nands a irsc, and one mile rable as isastrous t the In- I western , near its ndertalie s against gated by tions on assachu- scalps. en, with n whom fissed up d, where r stores ; encamp- rth-west receding , and fall \ upon the Indian Fort. The next morning they de- viated from their route, and the Indians having dis- covered the encampment, and the way they had gone, formed an ambush, fired npon them on their return, and killed eight men. The white men re- treated to the north-east corner of the pond, where is a narrow strip of land, and defended themselves till night; and the remains of the unfortunate ex- pedition returned through the forest, suffering from hunger and fatigue, and some of them from wounds. The Stage Coach from Conway to Portland pass- es through Fryeburgh, Hiram, Baldwin, Standish, and Gorham. The coach to Concord goes through Conway. " A tremendous catastrophe occurred among the White Mountains on the night of Aug. 28th, 1826. A storm of rain, unprecedented, deluged the prin- cipal peaks of the mountains, and poured such an inundation upon the valleys and plains below, that it is commonly attributed to the " bursting of a cloud." The effects produced by the flood will remain for centuries exposed to the eye, and afford opportunity to observe, in some places, the struc- ture of the mountains, where their interior has been laid bare by the falling of vast quantities of earth and rocks. Geologists and mineralogists, too, may expect to meet with curious and valuable specimens, among the enormous wrecks they will observe on either hand. The inundation was so great and so sudden, that the channels of the streams were totally insufficient to admit of the passage of the water, which con- sequently overflowed the little level valleys at the feet of the mountains. Innumerable torrents im- 26* !« ( I :t li r ■i , r t ^- "h' 1 ' In ^:' 302 THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. mediately formed on all sides ; and such deep trenches were cut by the rushing water, that vast bodies of earth and s^tones fell from the mountains, bearing with them the forests that had covered them for ages. Some of these ** slides," as they are here popularly denominated, (known among the Alps as "' avalanches dc tcrre,^'') were half a mile in breadth, and from one to live miles in length. Scarcely any natural occurrence can be imagined more sublime ; and among the devastation which it has left to testify the power of the elements, the traveller will be filled with awe at the thought of that Being by whom they are controlled and di- rected. The timber was often marked with deep grooves and trenches, made by the rocks which passed over them during their descent from the mountains; and great heaps of trees are deposit- ed in some places, while in others, the soil of the little meadows is buried with earth, sand, or rocks, to the depth of several feet. The turnpike road leading through this romantic country, was twen- ty miles in length, but was nlmost entirely destroy- ed. Twenty-one of the twenty-three bridges upon it were demolished ; one of them, built with stone, cost $1000. The Willey House (which will be seen in the centre of the mountains,) was the scene of a most melancholy tragedy on the night above mentioned, when this inundation occurred. Several days pre- viously, a large "slide" came down from the moun- tains behind it, and passed so near as to cause great alarm, without any injury to ihe inmates. The house was occupied by Mr. Calvin Willey, whose wife was a young woman of a very interest- BARTLETT. 303 ;h deep hat vast iin tains, covered as they aong the f a mile I length, magined n which ents, the ought of and di- ith deep vs which roni the deposit- il of the or rocks, ke road as twen- destroy- aes upon ih stone, 1 in the >f a most ntioned, lays pre- e moun- to cause inmates. Willey, interest- ing character, and of an education not to be look- ed for in so wihl a region. They had a number of th young cliildren, llieir lanuly ivnjounling in all to eleven. They were wakid in the night by the noise of the storm, or more. probably by the second descent of avalanches from the neighboring moun- tains ; and fled in their night clotlies from the house to seek their safety, but thus threw them- selves in the way of destruction. One of the slides, 100 feet high, stopped within 3 feet of the house. Another took away the burn, and overwhelmed the family. Nothing was found of them for some time: their clothes were lying at their bedsides, the house not having been started on its foundation : an im- mense heap of earth and timber, which had slid down, having stopped before it touched it ; and they had all been crushed on leaving the door, or borne away with the water that overflowed the meadow. Bartlett is a comfortable village, situated in a rich valley, or interval, of about 300 acres, where the view is bounded on every side by near and lofty mountains. The inn of the place is kept by 'Judge Hall.' There is another interval among the moun- tains westwardt which, although it contains much good cleared land, has been converted into a com* mon, in consequence of the ditficulty of making a good road to it. Pursuing still the course of the narrow valley, against the current of the 8aco, the country is found uncleared, except two or three pretty little meadows; and destitute of inhabitants, excepting only three or four poor families, until arriving at ■ . ^ «- 1 I ■ t ,: I ■" Si 304 THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 'I' THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. Crawford's Farm, seven and a ^alf miles south of the Notch. Here the traveller will be cheerful- ly and comfortably entertained. The water rose in this house two feet in the flood < 1826. This is the place from which visiters formerly began their excursions to the summit of the mountains; but the best place is at the new house near the Notch. Prospect Mountain, one of the principal peaks, presents itself to view a little before arriving at the first Crawford's, with its smooth rounded summit of brown moss, rising several hundred feet above the region of vegetation, and offering an aspect which distinguishes these from the other elevations. The climate in this narrow valley is so warm as to favour the growth of various trees which are scarcely to be found a few miles further north. The forests are here formed of spruce, ash, beech, maple, sugar maple, &c. Mr. Crawford has about 100 acres cleared, and raises Indian corn very well, which will not come to maturity beyond. His or- chard contains 700 apple trees. This is one of the principal stopping places for the sleighs, which pass the mountains in great numbers during the winter, for Portland, Boston, &>c. There are some- times 80 horses in the stables. Nancy^s Hill is a small elevation a few miles north of this place. In 1773, a young woman of respectable connexions, who accompanied a family of settlers to Dartmouth (now Jefferson,) set out in the winter to return to Portsmouth, alone and on foot. There was then no house nearer than Bartlett, 30 miles. Nancy was found by some tra- vellers in this spot, frozen and covered with ice, WJ* }s south heerful- r rose in This is in their is ; but Notch, I peaks, cf at the summit t above aspect (rations. vsLvm as ich are north. . beech, s about •y well. His or- e of the which ng the 3 some- miles tnan of family set out ne and r than ne tra- ;h ice, THE NOTCH. 305 under a liut formed of ])ranc'hns of trees, which was the only slultcr to be found on llio way. The WiLLKY House is in a secluded little val- ley about 5 nnl( s north of Oawlord' a nd was lonjr the only buiMin-r in a distance of 12 miles. It has sometimes been uninhabited during the sum- mer season, in iIjc winter a family occu])icd it to keep a fire, lodgings, and a little food, for travel- lers and wagoners, who might otherwise perish. See page 302. There is a place near the Notch^ where the road, had been built up on a wall 40 or 50 feet high, and about 30 yards in extent, at the expense of $500. This whole fabric was swept away by a mass of earth, rocks, and trees, in the flood, which came from half a mile up the side of the mountain, and rushing down at an angle of about 45^, precipitat- ed itself into the bed of the Saco, which is nearly 300 feet below. The road rises with a steep ascent for a consid- erable distance before it reaches the Notch, and the traveller observes two cataracts, one pouring down a precipitous mountain at a distance on the west side of the valley, and the other, which is called the Flumey rushing down on the right-hand, and crossing the road under a bridge. The scene- ry is sublime and impressive beyond description. Just beyond is another Flume, About 150 yards beyond is the first great slide seen in coming from the Notch. The Notch is so narrow as to allow only room enough for the path and the Saco, which is here a mere brook only four feet in breadth. It is rc-» markable that the Saco and the Ammonoosuc 1 h liif?. H 306 THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. il l^p^^ai 1 id B^H is 'M n'^H ''9 M^'91 * 'B wi^l • >1 ^■i^H ' -2 •n^^^^^l si il spririj^ from fountains on Mount Washington, within, perhaps, 60 yards of eacli other, though the former empties into the Atlantic, and the lat- ter joins Connecticut River. Another branch of the Ammonoosuc approaches the Saco in one place, within about 600 yards. They are both crossed beyond the Notch. The head waters of the Merrimack rise within about a mile and a half of this place ; and run down a long ravine, little less remarkable than that of the Saco. The Notch Meadow, Here a house has been re- cently erected, at which the traveller will find ac- commodation, and where it is recommended to him to take up his quarters during his stay. It is situated on a small meadow, probably formed at an early period, when the water of the Saco was set back and overfl.)wed the neighboring surface, before the convulsion occurred by which the Notch was formed, and a passage was opened to it. A traveller arriving at this spot from the west- ward, can hardly paint in his own imagination an adequate picture of the wild and magnificent ob- jects which await him along the route ; and he who has already passed among them will never be able to erase the impression from his memory. A road was first made through the Notch in 1785. It was 50 or 60 feet higher than the pre- sent turnpike, and so steep that it was necessary to draw horses and wagons up with ropes. The assessment for the turnpike was made in 1800. Two rocks stand at the sides of this remarkable passage, one 20, and the other 30 feet, in perpen- dicular height. They are about 20 feet asunder, atGor Tyards from the north end ; then they open to cu N( lei ill MOUNT WASHINGTON. 307 lington, though the lat- anch of in one re both aters of d a half le, little been re- find ac- nded to f. It is rmed at aco was surface, ich the ed to it. e west- ition an ent ob- le who be able otch in he pre- cessary The 800. arkable 3erpen- sunder, jy open to 30 feet. The part which appears to have been cut through is about l20 feet Itnig. From the Notch meadow after a ride of 4^ miles, the travel- ler reaches Ethan A Crawford's House, The master of the house also will act as a guide, and is qualified for the office, both by his intimate acquaintance with the way, and the various kind attentions and amusing anecdotes with which he knows how to relieve the tediousness of the ascent. The best arrangement is to set out in the afternoon, spend the night at the wigwam or " Cam/>," ascend the mountain early in the morning, to have the benefit of the view by sunrise, and return to the inn before the ensuing evening. It is 6 or 7 miles to the ** Camp," 3 of which are passable in a carriage, and the rest on horseback. MOUNT WASHINGTON. The ascent of the mountain was formerly a most arduous undertak- ing, and was very rarely performed, but even la- dies have since been enumerated among ihose wbo have gained the summit. The whole way lies through a perfect forest. The first (i or 7 miles are over a surface comparatively Irvel ; but the last two miles and a quarter are up an ascent not differing much from an angle of forty-five degrees. The time to perform the different parts of this excursion may be estimated as follows : hours. From the inn to the camp, .... 2 Thence to the summit, 2 miles and 93 rods, 2 or 2J Returning from summit to camp, . . 1^ Thence to the inn, 2 The streams of the Ammonoosuc River, which :A ,[ 308 THE WHITE MOUNTAI.VS. 1 ■ 1 1 1 11 are to be crossed seven times, show tlie ravages of the inundation of 18^6, but a comfortable bed, and d. fire, (if the weather be chill,) will be found very welcome at The Camp, 63 miles from Crawford's. Here provisions of different kinds will be produced; and even cooked by a cheerful fire ; and fine trout may be obtained from the romantic little stream which dashes by wiihin a short distance. I'he ascent of Mount Washington begins just at hand. The first part of the way is through a thick forest of heavy timber, which is suddenly succeeded by a girdle of dwarf and knarled fir- trees, 10 or 15 feet high, and 80 rods, or about 450 yards broad ; which, ending as suddenly as they began, give place to a kind of short buiihes, and finally a thin bed of moss, not half sufficient to conceal the immense granite rocks which de- *'orni the surface. For more than i mile, the sur- face is entirely destitute of trees. A few strag- gling spiders, and several species of little flower- ing plants, are the only objects that attract the at- tention, under the feet. The following heights f^re stated t<» be those of the different peaks, above Me level of Connecticut River at Lancaster: Wash- ington, 5,350; Jefferson, 5^26]; Adams, 5,183; Madison, 6,039 ; Monroe, 4,932 ; Quiiicy, 4,470. Mount Washington is believed to be more than 6,400 feet above the ocean. In a clear atmosphere the view is sublinie, and almost boundless. The fi.iest [nut of '« is towaids the south-cast and soidh. Loidving down the val- ley^ through which the roud has conducted us, a fine succession of mountainous summits appear for MOUNT WASHINGTON. 309 Inany miles, extending beyond the bright surface of Winnipiseogee Lake. Towards the south-east also, the eye ranges over an extent of surface, which quite bewilders the mind. Mountains, hills, and valleys, farm houses, villages, and towns, add their variety to the natural features of the country ; and the ocean may be discovered at the horizon with the help of a telescope, although the sharpest sight has never been able to distinguish it without such assistance. In that direction lies Portland, the capital of Maine ; and nearer, Lovel's Pond. On the north-east is seen the valley of the An- droscoggin River, which abounds in wild and ro- mantic scenery, and was the usual passage by which the Indians, in their hostile incursions from Canada, used to approach the eastern frontier set- tlements of Massachusetts and New-Hampshire. Beyond, are the Ktardin Hills, near the extremity of Maine. North, the country is more wild and uncultiva- ted ; and the llmbagog Lake is seen, from which flows the Androscoggin. West, the nearer view is over a mountainous region, covered with a thick forest, thiough which only an occasional opening is perceived, formed by the farms (or clearings) of the hardy inhabi- tants. Beyond, the hills are seen to rise from the opposite shore of Connecticut River, the surface of which is every where hidden from view, and the summits, rising higher and higher, terminate in the ridires of the Green Mountains in Vermont. South-westerly is seen the (irand Monad nock. The Indians knew the White Mountains by the 26 i» M M^ i!"! m I. ■:'■ Lh 310 THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. name of Agiocochook, and regarded them as inac- cessible, or at least represented them so to white men. The Lake of the Clouds is a little pond, near the summit of Mount Monroe, of beautiful clear water; and supplies the head stream of the Am- monoosuc River. This little current immediately begins its descent, and dashes in a headlong course of several thousand feet, into the valley near the encampment. Geology, Loose fragments of granite are eve- ry where scattered over the mountain, with some specimens of gneiss. The granite is generally gray, and at first line-grained, but grows coarser as we ascend, and is occasionally sprinkled with small garnets. At the summii it frequently con- tains a little black tourmaline, sometimes in cross- ing crystals. On the summit, also, some of the granite is tinged with red, although much of it is colored bright green by lichens, dampened by the humidity of the clouds, and interspersed with thick and sofl gray moss. The grain of the coarse granite is elongated ; and what strikes the visiter as very singular is, that not a single rock is to be found in its original place — every thing bears the mark of remo\al; and this, taken into view with the precipice on the northern side, seems to indi- cate that the summit of the mountain has fallen down and disappeared. The general belief now seems to be, that the lofty peak above us is the highest elevation in North America, except Mexico and some of the Rocky Mountains. The only places susceptible of cultivation in the heart of the mountains, are ;m as mac- o to white pond, near utiful clear f the Am- [imediately ong course y near the te are eve- with some 5 generally ws coarser ikled with uently con- es in cross- some of the luch of it is !ned by the ersed with f the coarse the visiter ck is to be \g bears the 3 view with ems to indi- has fallen e, that the elevation in ome of the susceptible untains, are \ f^ 1 11 1 i ■1 L=^ i'' ■Mm 1 lliiiiiiil!!' |K i<\ J MOUNT WASHINGTON. 311 the little meadows inhabited by the Crawfords, the Notch, and Willey Meadows ; and there the interval of warm weather is so short in the year, that few vegetables can arrive at maturity, with all the rapidity of growth which distinguishes such cold regions. Various kinds of wild birds and game are to be found in the woods, besides bears, wild cats, and deer. The moose and buflaki were formerly abundant among the mountains ; and it is scarcely thirty years since they were killed in great num- bers, merely for their hides and tallow ; as the lat- ter still are in the deserts beyond the Mississippi* Deer are common in the woods, and frequently are killed by the hunters. Sometimes they come boldly down into the little meadow before Craw- ford's house, and quietly graze with the cattle. The black bear are occasionally seen in the more unfrequented places; but they will always endea- vor to avoid a m.n. A large species of elk, the Cariboo, has made its appearance in the White Mountains within a few years. The weather is liable to frequent changes in the mountainous region, which is partly owing to the vicinity of the Notch, through which the wind blows, almost without ceasing, and of course, al- ways north or south. During the winter it is of- ten very violent, so that the surface is swept of every thing that a strong wind can remove. The summits of the mountains are frequently invested with mist, when the sky is clear; and those only who inhabit the vicinity are able to tell whether the day is to be favorable for the ascent. The mists sometimes collect in the valleys, and then t!ii 312 THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. present some of the most singular and beautiful appearances. Roads, There are two roads hence to ConneC" ticut River ; one over Cherry Mountain (very la- borious) to Lancaster ; the other, shorter, through Breton Woods, Bethlehem, and Littleton, (rough and stony) to Bath, 34 miles. [See Index.'] 'U int LUtiful mnec- jry la- iiough [rough BOSTON TO MAINE. Sid ROUTE FROM BOSTON TO MAINE. Steamboats run to Boston, Portland and Bath, and on to Eastport; 40 miles, to Augusta, in an- other direction ; and about 70 miles, from East- port to St. John's, in New-Brunswick — proprie- tors residing at Eastport; and from St. John's up the River St. John's about 80 miles to Frederick- town, by proprietors residing at St. John's ; and in another direction by the Eastport proprietors, from Eastport about 30 miles on the Schoodic to St. Andrew's and Calais. Two boats were after- ward put upon a line from Eastport to Annapolis and Windsor, in Nova Scotia. Another boat is run from Eastport to Dennisville, a distance of 20 or 30 miles. The line before occupied, including all its collateral branches and ramifications, ex- ceeds 600 miles, and is now about 700 miles. It is proposed in Boston, to enlarge the canal across Cape Ann, to admit the steamboats, which will save lo miles, and give an opportunity to com- municate, directly or by smaller boats, with Glou- cester, Newburyport, Portsmouth, Dover, and Kennebunk. Tiie boats go about 100 miles a day, and pass so near the shore as to afford many interesting views of the numerous islands, points, and bays, which abound along the coast. In 1826, the steamboat was burned on this line. The price was, from Boston to Portland, $5; thence to Eastport, $6, with a deduction for forward pas- sengers. There are coaches going to Salem every hour in the morning and forenoon ; and it may, perhaps^ 26* lii '',: I hin it 314 ROUTE FROM BOSTON TO MAINE. be convenient lo lake a seat in one of them, as Salem is well vvorlhy of at least a day's delay. Indeed, if convenient, the stranger will be grati- fied with several rides in the vicinity of that place, particularly to Marblehead. Lynn, 9 miles from Boston, is devoted to ma- king shoes ; great numbers of which are annually exported. Each house has a little shop in which the men and boys employ themselves in this man- ufacture. Therr are from 70 to 80 manufacturers of shoes, ar ' jrobably not far from 1500 opera- tives. Som ol he manufacturers employ 50 hands each, and on* *3 said to manufacture l2()0 pair per week. There is a mineral spring in this town, which was celebrated many years ago. Lynn Beach Hes on the way to the fashionable re- treat at Nahant. It is of hard sand, offering ai\ excellent natural road, but is impassable at high water. The bay on which it looks is one of the places where the famous sea serpent was seen sev- eral years ago. Beverly joins Salem so closely, as apparently to form a part of it. It has a long street nearly at the foot of a high hill, remarkable in the histo- ry of witchcraft, as the spot where numerous persons, condemned for that crime, in Salem, were executed. SALEM is one of the most populous, wealthy, and beautiful towns in New-England. It was one of the earliest settlements made in Massachusetts Bay, (1G26); and the planting of the colony is annually celebrated. Salem was for many years engaged in an ex- tensive and lucrative commerce, particulany with I Bm, as delay. grati- t place, to ma- nnually which is man- icturers opera- )lov 60 re*l200 T in this irs ago. lable re- ring avv at high \i of the een sev- parently nearly le histo- timerous m, were wealthy, was one chusetts olony is n an cx- iriv with 8ALEM. 316 China ;«iancl still contains a great deal of wealth. The harbor is fine, but ilie trade of the place has materially diminished. The streets arc generally loo narrow ; but the banks, insurance offices, and churches are many of them handsome buildings. The Square is a lar^re and beautiful tract of ground, near the centre of the town. About it are seen many of the finest [)rivate buildings in the pla(!e. There is a High School in Salem, besides 18 public and 58 private schools. The Marine Museum is an institution highly creditable to the town, being an association of re- spectable nautical and commercial '^dividuals, formed for the purpose of making usefid bserva- tions, and collecting curiosities from all quarters of the world. No one can become a member who has not doubled Cape Horn, or the Cape of Good Hope, either as master or supercar;^ ^ of a vessel ; and each of them is supplied with a journal, in which he is to note down remarks during his voy- ages. These are submitted to the inspection of a committee ; and the curiosities brought home are deposited in a handsome building belonging to the society, which is well worthy the particular atten- tion of strangers. Access is readily gained by application to any of the members. The room is l:iri:e, well lighted, and filled with curiosities from all quarters of the world. The arrangement is made with great taste, and several hours, or indeed days, will hardly be sufficient for an examination of all it contains. The following lines were written after a visit to this interesting institution, by Beltrami, a dis- tinguished scientific traveller, in the year 1827: if.ll If 316 nOUTl FROM BOSTON TO MAINE. '* Siste Viator! Siste, mirari ! est Orbis in urbc, •* Et prabet pulchruin cuncta miranda Salem. — ♦♦Obstupui, hie Superum, hinc hominum prodi- gia vidi, "Pontus, Magna Parens, Ignis ctlpse favent. — •*0h, America: Oh, felix tcllus, populuaque beatus ! •*Quam nobis toUunt dant tibi fata vicem. — The top of the hotel commands a fine and ex- tensive view over the town and its environs, with the harbor, and the fine coves which set up on both sides. Marblehead. There is a good road to this town, which stands at the end of a rocky promon- tory, 4 miles south-east from Salem. It contains a handsome square, and some very good houses; and is principally inhabited by fishermen. The harbor is a small bay, protected by barren rocks, and affords shelter to the numerous fishing schoo- ners employed in the cod fishery. The men and boys are absent from home a great part of the year; as each vessel usually makes three fishing voyages, or "/ares," every season. They lie on the banks until they have caught a load of fish, which are opened and salted as soon as taken. The vessels then return, and the fish are spread to dry on wooden frames, called flakes; great num- bers of which will be seen on the shore. There is a fort at the extremity of the town, which com- mands the entrance to the harbor, and affords a view of man}'^ miles over the neighboring sheets of water. The islands at the entrance are wild and rocky ; and the sea breaks over them with violence in an easterly storm. Towards the south I 1 urbCf lem. — prodi- rent. — nd ex- s, with :>nboth to this romon- 011 tains louses ; . The I rockst schoo- len and of the fishing lie on of fish, taken, read to t num- There com- brds a sheets e wild h n with e south \ HAMPTON. 317 are seen several headlands of this iron-bound coast. Newburyport is a ]'drg at the top, and small holes in the walls for fresh air, which, during the winter, is warmed before it is admitted. The Warden's house is also built of granite, and is two stories high, placed in the middle, with a row of cells on each side. The prison yard is surround- ed by a circular wooden paling, and encloses nearly three acres, in which is a lime quarry. Several 27* It \\ II I 326 ROUTE ll'i MAINE. 1 workshops on the ground serve the purposes of the convicts, who are employed in hurning Jime and other nianiiractures. The Knox Estate. Ahont half a mile from the State Prison is the ancient residence of the late General Knox, 3 stoiies hi«^h, large and elegant. From Thomastown to Belfast^ (30 miles,) the road commands many views of Penobscot Bay, with a few islands on the right, and a partially cultivated country on the left, with some moun- tainous scenes. Belfast is a flourishing port, pleasantly situated on the side of a hill. The road hence to Castine, round the bay, is 35 miles, pass- ing through Prospect, Buckport, Orland, and Pe- nobscot. Castine was taken during the late war by a fleet, and tlie British intrenchments are to be seen on the hill above. Eastport is the frontier post of the U. States on the seacoast towards the British possessions. It is on ihe south-eastern part of Moose Island, in Passamaquoddy Bay, and connected with the main land by a bridge. The spot was almost uninhabit- ed oO years ago ; but now it contains three places of worship. There are fortifications and a few troops. A. line of steamboats is established be- tween this place and Boston, touching at Port- land, &c. The roaa from Belfast to Bangor lies along the cours^ c^" the Penobscot River. Bangor, i lii nrishing village, occupies a com- manding posi iiOfi for business. The scenery here begins to assume much of that mountainous char- acter, which prevails so extensively through a -a .,f AUGUSTA. 327 oscs of g Jime orn the he late ^gant. ;s,) the ot Bay, artially moun- T port, he road 3, pass- md Pe- r a fleet, seen on States jssions. land, in le main nhabit- : places a few ed be- Port- large part of the interior. A very conspicuous eminence is observed at a distance in the north, called Ktardin Mountain, the hiiihest land in the state. From Bangor we begin our return to Portland, taking the route through the finest part of the state of Maine. The road to Augusta and Hal- lowell on the Kennebec, lies through a region rapidly improving under the management of an active, industrious, and increasing population. Augusta is a considerable town, and very flourishing, at the falls of the Kennebec. At the mouth of this river, at Georgetown, beryls have been found, in a ridge of graniie country. Some are 16 inches long and 6 thick. They are associ- ated with schorl. !l .» . m mg the la com- •y here Is char- ►ugh a S28 CITV OF WASHINGTON. WASHINGTON. Gadshifs HoteU Pennsylvania Avenue, — ^Nu- merous hotels and boarding-houses also oiFer hand- some accommodations, paiticularly during the sessions of Congress. The seat of government of the United States is situated between the Potomac River and its east- ern branch, about a mile and a half above their junction. It is divided into three distinct parts, the Navy Yard, the Capitol Hill, and the Penn- sylvania Avenue. The Capitol is an immense building, with two wings, surrounded by an open piece of ground, terraced in front, and occupying an elevation, which renders it a conspicuous ob- ject for several miles. The original plan of the city was very extensive ; the principal streets meeting from all points of the compass at the Capitol, and bearing the names of the older states of the Union. Some of the minor streets are known by the names of the letters of the alphabet; and tracts of ground were reserved for public squares. During the sessions of Congress, the place is thronged with strangers from all parts of the country; and the sessions of the Senate and Re- presentatives, the proceedings of the Supreme Court, the levees at the President's House, the parties at the foreign ministers', &.c. afford ample opportunities for amusements of various kinds. The Capitol presents, in the interior, speci- mens of various styles of architecture. The whole front is 352 feet 4 inche? in length ; and the wings e, — ^Nu- tjr hand- ing the States is its east- ve their :t parts, e Penn- immense an open ccnpying luous ob- xtensive ; nts of the names of he minor letters of reserved place is IS of the and Re- Supreme use, the rd ample kinds, r, speci- he whole he wings I OITY OF WASHINGTON. 329 are 121 feet 6 inches deep. The eastern projec- tion is 65 feet; the westi rn 80. The buihiino; covers an acre anil a half atid 1830 feet. The winos, to the top of the balustrade, are 70 feet high, the centre dome 95. Representatives' Room, greatest length, 95 ft. Representatives' Room, ^rrcatest height, 60 Senate Chauibcr, greatest length, - - 74 Senate Chamber, greatest height, - - 42 Great Central Rotunda, 9G feet in diameter, and 96 high. The North Wing was commenced in 1792, and tirdshed in 1800, cost $480,262 South Wing was commenced in 1803, and finished in 1808, cost - - - 308,808 Centre Building, commenced in 1819, and finished in 1827, cost - - - 957,647 $1,746,717 On the tympanum is a statue of America, 9 feet in length, attended by Justice, and visited by Hope. The Representatives Hall is a beautiful semi- circular apartment, 95 feet long, and 60 in height, with 24 Corinthian columns of Virginia breccia, copied after a column found in Athens. There is a sky light aSovc, under which hangs a large chan- delier, A gigantic statue of Liberty is over the Speaker's Chair; opposite which is one of History in the act of recording. The Senate Chamber, also semicircular, is 74 feet long and 42 high. Tlie gallery is supported by Ionic columns, and, like that of the Represen- tatives, is accessible during the open debates. t < \ 1 t i £ fi ili 330 CITY OF WASHINGTON. The Rotundo contains the four national pic- tures, painted lor the government by Col. Trum- bull : the Declaration of Independence, the Sur- renders at Saratoga and Yorktown, and Washing- ton resigning his Commission; each 12 feet by 18. Here are also four relievos in marble, represent- ing scenes connected with the history of (liferent parts ol' the U. Slates ; Pocahontas rescuing Capt. Smith from death, in 1606, [by Capellano,] the Landing of the New-England Prilgrims at Ply- mouth, in 1620, [by Causici,] Wm. Penn's Treaty with the Indians, near Philadelphia, in 1682, [by Gevelot,] and a battle between Boon and two In- dians, in 1773, [by Causici.] There can hardly be found in the world a room better constructed for the exhibition of pictures than this noble, grand Rotundo, the material of which is white marble, and the light admitted from the summit of the dome, 96 feet in height. The Library of Congress, 92 ft. by 34, and 36 in height, contains about 14,000 volumes. These are arranged in 12 arched compartments, with flu- ted pilasters, which have the proportions of the columns of the Octagon Tower of Athens. A portion of the library is placed in an U|)per range of s'.Tialler compartments. The Record Office, under the RiUundo, contains the records of the Supreme Court. The archi- tecture is the ancient simple Doric of Paestum. Beside these apartments, there are in the Capitol, 45 Committee rooms, 25 offices, a refectory under the Representatives' Hall, three stair cases, &c. A tine view is enjoyed from the top of the Cap- itol, Westward, to the President's House, with CHESAPEAKE AND OHIO CANAL. 331 lal pic- Triim- lie J5ur- ^ashing- Btby 18. present- difl'erent ng Capt. 110,] the at Ply- s Treaty ;82, [by two In- 3 a room pictures terial of admitted eight. I, and 36 These with flu- Is of the ens. A er range contains je archi- IPaestum. Capitol, •y under |s, ^c. the Cap- ise, with Georgetown and the Potomac beyond ; the Gen- eral Post Office, 6lc. on tlie right ; the Navy Yard towards the south-east ; Greeiileafs' Point nearly floulh; and south-west the bridge over the Poto- mac, with the road to Alexandria and MouMt Ver- non. The canal begins south of the President's House, and terminates at the East Branch. The President's House is of while marble, with Grecian fronts, about a mile west of the Capitol, and near the public ofilces. The entrance hall leads into the drawing-room, where the company are received at the levees. Two other apartments are thrown open on those occasions; ail hand- somely furnished, and freely accessible, even to strangers. The Patent Office is in the same building with the General Post Office, and well worthy of a visit, on account of the numerous curious models which it contains, relating to all branches of the arts. The Treasury, Navy, War, and Land Offi- ces, are all in the vicinity of the President's House; as are the residences of the Foreign Ministers. The members of Congress, as well as the numer- ous strangers who resort hither during the ses- sions, find lodgings in the hotels and boarding- houses in diflerent parts of the city, or in George- town. The Chesapeake and Ohio Canal was commen- ced in 1828, and is proceeding along the Potomac River, where it will pass among some very fine scenery, as well as through some rich tracts of country. Steamboats. By steamboats there is a constant &nd cenvenient communication between Washing- 1^ it I. - 1 '■ r&K IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // {/ ^^ A^i^.. /- «^/ f/. 1.0 I.I nf ii£ mil 2.0 IF 1.8 1.25 1.4 |||||i^ .4 6" ► V] <^ /^ 7 ^a >^ '^ "-f* Photographic Sciences Corporation 4* V \ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 #0 # » . churches, 3 banks, a jail, court house, exchange, (5 stories high,) hospital, library, theatre, an academy 180 ft. long, , 45 ; Sandy Hook, 3 : Fort Lafayette, at the Nar- rows, 11 ; N. York City, 8. Route from, Charleston to Norfolk. 419 miles. Greenwich, 4 miles; Wapetan Church, 15 ; Twee- den Cottons, 17 ; S. Branch of Sanlee, 10 ; N. do. 2 ; Georgetown, 14 ; Sands, 20 ; Varennes, North Carolina, 13; Smithville, 26; Brunswick, 12; Wilmington, 18 ; Hermitage, 6 ; South Washing- ton, 24 ; Rhode's, 24; Trenton, 11 ; Newbern, 20; Washington, 35 ; Plymouth, 35 ; Roanoke river, 8. (In a Steamboat,) Wade's Point, Albermarle Sound, 45 ; Elizabeth City, 17. (Stage Coach,) Pasquotank River, 12; boundary of Virginia, 10; Portsmouth, 20 ; Norfolk, 1. Norfolk Virginia^ 8 miles from Hampton Roads, is the principal port of the state, and admits ves- sels drawing 18 feet water, but has little attraction, for a traveller: the ground being lovi^, flat, and little inhabited for a great distance around it. It contains 6 churches, a marine hospital, 3 banks, an academy. Athenaeum and theatre. There is a fort on Craney island. Lat. 36° 52' North, iong. 0° 44' East. 114 miles S. E. by E. of Richmond, RICHMOND TO WASHINGTON. 337 h river. '1(1, and state. I Brown, arleslon leaving 70 miles, he coast. 5 ; Cape ape May, ''ork ba> , the Nar- 19 miles. ) ; Twee- ; N. do. es, North ick, 12; Washing- bern, 20 ; )ke river, Ibermarle Coach,) rinia, 10; m Roads, I mi Is ves- ittraction, flat, and id it. It Ibanks, an le is a fort •long. Oo Richmond, whither steamboats go, up James river. Popula- tion in iSoO, 9,816. The Navy Yard at Gosport, has a large dry dock, 2i)6 feet long, and 50 feet spare room, and 86 feet wide at top, from which, on acconnt of the small tides, the water is pumped out by steam. The Dismal Swamp Canal opens to Norfolk in communication with the vallics of Roanoke and Chowan. Steamboat from Norfolk to Washington^ 195 miles. Down Elizabeth river to Chesapeake Bay, 9 miles ; to James river, 6 ; York river, Old Point Comfort, 20 ; New Point Comfort, 10 ; Rappahan- nock river, 15 ; St. Mary's river, 42 ; Port Tobac- co, 38 ; Potomac river, 15 ; Mount Vernon, 25; Alexandria, 9 ; Washintrton, t>. ■Steamboat from Norfolk to Baltimore^ 191 miles. Chesapeake Bay, 9; James river, 6; Old Point, 20; New Point, 10; Rappahannock river, 15; Smith's Point, 25 ; Potomac, 10 ; Patuxent, ]8 ; Cone Point, 5 ; Sharp's Island, 15 ; Three Sisters, 16; Annapolis, 10; Sandy Point, 6; Patapsco, 11; Baltimore, 15. •' Steamboat from Norfolk to Richmond,! 22 miles, Chesapeake Bay, 9; Day's Point, 10 ; Hog island, 16; Swan's Point, 9 ; Chickahomany river, 4; Fort Powhatan, 21 ; Eppe's Island, 17; Chester- field, 23: Richmond, 13. Road and Steamboat from Richmond to Wash- ing-ton, 120 miles. Road to Chickahomany river, 10; Hanover Court House, 10 ; White Chimneys, 10; Mattapoay river, 8 ; Bowling Green, 6 ; Vile- borough, 8 ; Fredericksburgh, 14 ; Potomac river, 9; (Steamboat,) Mount Vernon, 30 ; Alexandria, 9; Washington, 6. 28* ^ i a :! ! ! 11^ ' H V 'f 338 VIRGINIA SPRINGS. Steamboat and Railroad route from. Baltimore to Philadelphia, I la^ miles. (Steavihoat.) Fort McHenry, 3; Sparrow's Point, 6; N. Point, 4; (Here was the battle of Sept. 1814.) Miller's Is- land, 8 ; Pool's Island, 8 ; Grove Point, iO, ; Tur- key Point, 6; Frenchtown, 13. (Railroad.) To Newcastle, 16^. (Steamboat.) Christiana Creek, 6 ; Marcus Hook, 8 ; Chester, 4 ; Lazaretto, 5 : Fort Mifflin, 5 ; Philadelphia, 8. The Newcastle and Frenchtown Railroad is a little less than i, nriile longer than a straight line be- tween the two points. It has 6 gentle curves, and 6 straight lines. The bed of the road is 26 feet. There are 4 bridges, and 29 culverts ; and the en- tire cost with a double track and machinery is es- timated at $408,520. There is a branch oi 800 feet. [The Virginia Springs. These springs are the resort of numerous travel- lers every year, and present tha combined attrac- tions of healthfulness, fine scenery, company, Ate. From Lynchburg, in Virginia, the first day's ride brings the traveller in sight of the noble peaks of Otter ; — the next day brings him to the Natural Bridge, and the canal through the Blue Ridge — in a few days he can visit the Sweet Springs, the White Sulphur, Salt Sulphur (for consumptive patients,) the Hot Springs, and the Warm Springs, (the laUer celebrated for its bath, and the prospect which the Warm Spring Rock displays.) On his way to Staunton, he passes the Blowing cave— on the first diy from Staunton, he reaches Weyer's cave, one of the most astonishing works of subter- ranean Nature in the world— going up the Valley, he will visit at Harper's Ferry the celebrated junc» CITY or BALTlMOKn. 339 altimore ,) Fort ^>int, 4; illcr's Is- iC; Tnr- id.) To ia Creek, retto, 5 : road is a It line be- irves, and IS 26 feet, nd theen- ery is es- ch cf 800 )iis travel- ed attrac- 3any, Ate. rst day's )ble peaks e Natural Ridge — in )rings, tlie nsumptive n Springs, prospect On his cave— on s Weyer's of subter- he Valley, ated junc» ) ' \ tion of the Slienandoah and Potomac. Tiic coun- try, through which some of this rofid conducts him, is not only remarkahlo for the beauty of the pic- turesque, but the fertility of its soil. The grass lands are uncommonly beautiful.] BALTIMORE. Barnunn's City Hotel, an elegnnt building near the Washington Monument, extends about 100 feet on Market-street, and 223 feet on Hanover- street. On the former opens the entrance to the private apartments, for families, *! I 1! l,,fti ! 340 CITV or BALTIMORE. The statue is 15 feet ]n«rh ; so that the hci^lit of the lop of the statue from the ground is 176 feet ; and from the tide U'Vel *^7(). The stales are re- presented by devices around the base; and inscrip- tions are a(hled to record the (beds of the father of our country. The Battle Monument was re- cently erected in rnemnry of thos(^ who fell in the defence of the city in September, 1814. The city Library contains about 4' JjOOO volumes. At tie corner of Front and Pitt streets is a shot tower, 234 feet in height, which is a conspicuous object from a distance. The Public Fountain is a fine spring of water in the western part of the city, surrounded by a public square, laid out in walks and shaded with trees. It is ornamented with a neat little building of hewn stone, and furnished with handsome steps. The environs of J^altimore afford some pleasant rides ; and the communication with different pla- ces is easy, by various modes of conveyance. The travelling to Philadelphia is by the steamboat and railroad lines, which go and arrive daily. Steam- boats also go to Norfolk, in Virginia, but the pas- sage is uninteresting, and those who wish to see Washington (38 miles distant) will go by land. The Mount Hope Institution is a school for youth, beautifully situated in the environs. St, Mary^s College is a Catholic institution in the city. Battle of Baltimore. This battle took place at Long Point in September, 1814. Nearly 40 sail of British vessels, comprising several ships of the line, arrived at the mouth of the Patapsco, and on the 12th landed between 7000 and 8i 00 men on Long Point, at the distance of 14 miles from the city. Sixteen bomb vessels in the mean time went BALTIMORE AND OHIO RAILROAD. 341 eight of ?6 feet ; are re- inscrip* e father was re- II in the rhe city At tie L tower, s object is a fine he city, n walks 1 with a irnished ileasant ent pla- :e. The ►oat and Steam- he pas- 1 to see and. youth, Mary^s :)lace at 40 sail s of the and on men on om the le went up the river, and ancliored about 2.^ miles from r\,rt M'llenry. Gen. Smith had sent Grn. StrickfT with a part of his biii>a(le, on the road to North Point; and Major Randal, with some Baltimore and Pennsylvania volunteers, went to Bear Oreek, to co-operate with him. Gen. Strieker took po- sition at the tw(» roads leading to North Point, his right on Bear Creek and his left on a marsh. An advance met the enemy, and after a skirmish re- turned, when they advanced and joined in a gene- ral battle. After an hour and twenty minutes, the 51st regt. gave way, and Gen. Strieker retired to his reserve, whither the enemy did not follow, and then to the left of Gen. Smith, and took post half a mile in advance of his entrenchments. He lost about 150 killed and wounded, in this action, in which th^ citizens of Baltimore distinguished themselves. The British loss was computed at 600 or 700; and among them their commander, Gen. Ross. The bomb vessels which attacked Fort M*Henry were unsuccessful, being met with a manly resis- tance ; and the troops re-embarked and relinquish- ed the enterprise. The Baltimore and Ohio Railroad. The route from Baltimore to the Potomac, 60 miles, has but a single summit, requiring stationary power ; and even the route up the Potomac valley, to the coal mines in Alleghany county, without anotle'- in all, a distance of 180 miles — a thing unprece- dented in Europe. The CarroUton Viaduct, which crosses Gwynn's Falls, about a mile from the city, is a fine specimen of mason work, 31"^ feet long, 63 feet 9 inches l! !i i 1 !,^ 't- I 342 BALTIMORE AND OHIO R>. ILROAH. I high, a!i(l 20 frot inrlms wide on the travelled part. The great granite; arch of SO feet span, sprini^s from abiiluu iils 2(> leet in tliiekness, and 14 feet above iIk? water. The key of the arch is 47 feet above the water. The arch stones are all of dressed granite ; the number of layers ofstono is 87, many of the stones weighing two tons ; and the parapets are roped with large slabs of granite. The Jackson Brilire is a single arch, 101) feet long, of entirely novel structure, the invention of Col. Long. The Deep Cut through a high and broad ridge of land, is about three-fourths of a mile in length, its greatest depth 70 feet, and its width at the sum- mit of the ridge, 184 feet. Quantities of carbon- ized wood were found 60 feet below the natural surface, an»l the stump of a tree with its roots at 40 feet. The enare excavation is 263,8^18 cubic yards. The Great Ernhanhment at Gadslnfs Run^ five miles from Baltimore, is nearly a mile in length, its greatest elevation 5() feet, and its greatest width 191 feet. Gadshy^s Run Viad-nct affords a passage to the waters of the run throutjh the embankment. The arch, composed of dressed granite blocks, is 120 feet from opening to opening. The Patterson Viaduct is an immense structure of granite, by which the road is carried to the op- posite bank of the Patapsco. It is built of granite blocks, from one to seven tons in weight, and its entire length is 375 feet. It has four beautiful arches, the two centre ones each a span of 55 feet, with extensive wings and water-walls, abutments, TIIK SUSqUUHANNAII RAILROAD. 843 ravrllofl 3t spun, CSS, and 1 arch is s arc all of stono tns ; and granite, lot) feet ntion of ad iid is the he Uni- in the fiament- ancient Banking tre, and e many td to the ich con- ligh coal k-street. esents a has two with six nd beau- between juilding, the front d Conti- [\d there led, July The Athencdum is adjoining, open ail day to strangers. The Philosophical Society^s Library and Cah- inet. Independence Square is a fine shaded piece of ground, behind the State House. Opposite in Walnut-street, is the State Prison, built of dark stone, and connected with a yard enclosed by high walls. City Library^ Fifth street, open to the public from 2, P. M. See Franklin's apparatus, and CromwelTs clock. The University contains a medical department, and the Wistar Museum, with a library, garden, 1? 348 CITY OF PHILADELPHIA. mammoth will attract particular attention, being' represented entire; for the parts which were de- ficient on one side, have been supplied by imita- tions of those on the other. Mr. Sully's Exhibition of Painting's is opposite the Slate House, and contains line pictures. Washington Square is on the other side of Sixth-street, with a handsome church on the southern side, with a range of wooden columns. The Pennsylvania Hospital is a large and ad- mirable institution, in ihe next street, whereabout 1200 sick are attended. It was founded by Frank- lin and others, in 1750. Most of the patients oc- cupy the east end, and the lunatics the west. The Lock Hospital is adjoining. The statue is that of Penn. Twenty-five cents will secure ad- mission to tl e building and gardens, and also to the top. Wastes Celebrated Picture of Christ Healing the Sick, is exhibited in a neat little buildings It represents the Saviour surrounded by a crowd of persons in the temple, among whom are observed many aflHicted with various dis- eases, pressing forward to be healed. In front is a paralytic woman borne by two men, whose healthy countenances form a striking contrast with her cadaverous aspect; and the painter has given a reddish tint to her feet, which seem already to have felt the miraculous influence.. A blind man appears behind, led by his sons ; and on the left-hand is an infant supported by its mo- ther, with a poor blind girl and other figures. Near the centre is a lunatic boy, rather too shock- ing a subject fur such a picture ; and a number of CITV OF PHILADELPHIA. 349 bcing^ ire de- imita- >posite ide of 311 the mns. ind ad- e about Frank- ints oc- 3 west, latue is ure ad- also to I, ealing uilding, by a whom us dis- d. In vo men, striking nd the , which ifluence,^ s; and its mo- figures, shock- ber of Jewish Rabbis are collected, with countenances expressive of violent passions. The apartment is admirably calculated for the display of the picture, which is universally con- sidered one of the finest and most interestinjr in the United States* The Theatre^ in Chestnut-street, between Sixth and Seventh-streets, has a marble front, with the entrance under a portico, ornamented with statues of Comedy and Tratredy. The Masonic Hall is a little beyond, and some- what in the Gothic style, with a small court yard in front. The Academy of Arts, Chestnut-street, between Tenth and Eleventh, contains a collection of stat- ues, (among these are Canova's Three Graces,) busts, &.C. in marble and plaster, ranged in an apartment lighted from the top; and beyond a gallery of pictures with many specimens of the works of American artists, particularly of Alston, among which is conspicuous that of the dead body restored to life by the bones of the prophet Elisha. The Jeferson Medical College is in Tenth-street, between Chestnut and Walnut. In Arch-street is a Theatre, The Public Almshouse, corner of Spruce and Tenth-streets, supports and employs numerous paupers ; and the directors established the Asylum for Children on Fifth-street, below Prime-street. Public Schools, under a Board of Comptrollers, are established in all the quarters of Philadelphia, on the Lancasterian system. The Orphans' and the Widows' Asylums are in the western part of the city. 29* I oi Ml I 850 CITY OF PHILADELPHIA. ; 'I i; li !i. m Academy of Natural Sciences, Penn's housCf Letitia court, Vuited States^ Mint, <^c, tSfC, There are two Medical Irstitutions in this city, where lectures are delivereci to a great number of students. The Deaf and Dumb Asylum is a valuable in- stitution. The Friends^ Alms House, Wa!nut-street, be- tween Fourth and Fifth-streets, is an admirable institution, where poor families are placed in se- parate houses, among small gardens, and lurnished with employment, Mr, Bedell's (episcopal) church in Eighth-street, and Mr. Montgomery's, in Tenth, are considered the finest in the city. The latter is in a kind of Gothic style. Near the Schuylkill is a manufacto- ry of Porcelain. The banks of the Schuylkill are well formed for the display of the largo public edifices which will be perceived ranged along their eminences for two or three miles, to the honor of Philadelphia and the ornament of its environs. Mr. PvatVs Garden is about 3 miles north-west from the centre of the city, and worthy of a visit. It is a private garden, but tickets of admission may be easily obtained through respectable in- habitants. The situation is agreeable and com- manding, on a little cape or promontory on the Schuylkill ; and from the gravelled walks the visi- ter enjoys a view down the river, of the basin, the dam, the water works, below which are the State Prison, House of Refuge, Hospital, the two bridges, and on the opposite side a handsome seat called ** Woodlaiids." These grounds were PENITENTIARY. 351 S hoUSCr ,his city, imber of lable in- eet, be- [Imirable ?d in se- iirnished th-street» insidercd land of anufacto- ^-rr.ed for bich will 2S for two Iphia and orth-west of a visit, idmission table in- nd com- ry on tbe 3 tbe visi- jasin, the tbe State tbe two landsome nds were purchased, in 1828, for the site of a Poor House, on the plan extensively adopted in New-England. The Schuylkill Water Works, Pipes more than 32^ miles; expense of raisinjr, $\\ per day. There is a lartj-c stone buildinir of ehasle arcliitec- ture, containing 5 large water wheels, which are capabl3 of raising 7 millions of gallons in 2-4 hours. They are turned by a current from the dam above. The reservoirs are on the hill above, which is higher than any part of the city, which it supplies. They contain together 11 millions of gallons. The steam engine is no longer used. The keep- er demands nothinjr for showing the works. The House of Refuge was established in 1828. Penitentiary. This is a large and singular con- struction, and built on a plan different from that which is at present most in vogue in this country. The prisoners are to be all kept in solitary con- finement. The front of the prison is large and imposing, like the gate of a fortress. The wall is 40 feet high, built of granite, and encloses a square 650 feet on each side. The rooms of the guard, keep- ers, and servants, as well as the cooking and wash- ing rooms, are in the front building ; while the cells are formed in seven long stone galleries, rad- iating from an octagon in the centre. The en- trances to the cells are through little yards from the outside, and each has a wicket door in the gal- lery. A sentinel in the octagon, by turning on his heel, can look through all the galleries ; and the arched roofs reverberate every sound, so that he can hear a very slight noice. This prison is built on a principle believed by 352 CITY OF PIIILADEtl»HIA. many to be erroneous. Solitary confinement ]» ^ very uncMiual kind <>!' punislinirnt to difle ent in- dividuals, and very expensive to ihe public. Tins iS an extensive experiment on an old and explod- ed system. The Naval Hospital is situated aboUt 2 miie* southwest from the centre of the city. The ex-^ pen?e is defrayed by funds contributed by the oilicers and seamen of the U. S. Navy, out of their pay. The building is on an eminence, commands^^ an extensive view, rnd makes a line appearance from a distance. The front is .j86 feet in lengthy 3 stories high, and will be large enough to lodge 300 or 400 persons. The first story is of granite, and the 2d and 3(1 of marble, both which kinds of stone are found in abundance in the vicinity of Philadelphia. Several edifices are to be erected at other naval stations for the same objects, and supported by tiie same fund. The Arsenal is situated just below the Hospital. The Navy Yard {on the banks of the Delaware.) Here, as in most of the principal navy yards in the U. States, ships of war are built under the shelter of immense buildings, which protect the workmen and the timber from exposure to the weather. The north side of the navy yard is devoted to brick buildings for the residence of officers, ship timber, &-c. while at the south end are the work- shops. The Marine Barracks are on the western side ; and the area of the yard, which is walled with brick, is about 12 acres. The interests of the city, as well as the coasting trade, will be benefitted by the construction of the CITY OF PHILADELPHIA. 353 t: enl !!< d •ent in- . This explod- 2 miied The eX' by ihe of their learance 1 lengthy to lodge * granite, kinds cf c'inity of e erected ect?, and lospital. laware.) yards in lidcr the biect the •e to the voted to |ers, ship le work- western walled coasting Ln of the great Breakwater at the moiith of Delaware Bay. It is an expensive work; but by aii<;rding a pro- tection to vessels on the coast ii\ danjreroiis wea- ther, will speedily eil'ect a saving equal to the expense. The extensive meadows south of Philadelphia, present a beautiful scene of fertility and cultiva- tion. A ride in that direction at morning or even- ing is recommended. The Chesapeake and Delaware Canal, A steamboat plies between Philadelphia and the head of the Canul iit Delaware city, five miles below Newcastle. This canal is for sloops of the largest class, and schooners: the locks being lOO by 22 feet, and the canal 60 feet wide at the water line. It was originally intended to secure a depth of only 8 feet: but it has since been increased to 10 feet. The principal objects upon the line which will interest a stranger, are The Harbor on the Delaware at Delaware City. It is formed by two piers running into the water; one five hundred feet long, and the other six hun- dred, with a return pier of one hundred ieet. Boats enter the first lock a little distance from this. Swivel Bridge. The first of three swivel bridges, is passed three quarters of a mile from the Delaware. St. George^s Marsh is a low, flat tract of land, over which the tide ebbed and flowed until a great embankment was raised, which serves as a towing path, and excludes the water. The soil was so fioft and light, that earth was brought from a dis- 4n II fc !f*i M f 354 THE PENNSYLVANIA CANAL. tancc to form the bank; wluch gradually sunk sa far that it is suppcscd to have displaced, in son[ie parts, a quantity tupial to a column of forty feet. The Deep C/ut is live miles Ion*,'", where the height of the barik varies from 8 to 70 feet. Over the middle of ^ extended the Summit Bridge, reaching from hill to hill, with a single arch of 235 feet span, 1)0 feet above the bottom of the canal. Schooners and the largest sloops may pass beneath with tfieir masts standing. The principal reservoir on the line is a p»)nd of 100 acres, ten feet in depth. [The Pennsylvania Canal. Under this general name is comprehended a great and extensive system of internal improve- ments, for several years designed b}^ the Legisla- ture of this state. Numerous plans for canals and railways have been proposed and considered, sur- veys have been made of the principal routes sup- posed to be capable of improvement for the benefit of the public, and considerable progress has been made in some places in works to connect the wa- ters of the Ohio and Susquehannah, while naviga- tion has been opened up to the Mauch Chunk Mines, &c. It will be some time before the western works will be so far completed as to at- tract many travellers from the established routes^ if they ever are. Canal travelling westward may be commenced at Philadelphia on the Schuylkill^ and by the Union Canal. In 1829, there were 435 miles of finished canals in Pennsylvania, and between 2 and 300 miles re- main to be completed. The great western plan of internal improve-^ sunk sa in some y feet, lerc the t. Over Bridge, :h of 235 he canal. 3 beneath 1 pon dof hcndcd a improve- 3 Legisla- janals and ered, sur- utes sup- ic benefit has been ct the wa- e naviga- ch Chunk efore the d as to at« ed routes^ ward may ichuylkilU led canals miles re- improve** KOUTES TO THE COAL MINES. 355 nients undertaken by the Pennsylvania Canal Commissioners, ''From INliddlelown stretches to the Juniata — thence up the river to the foot of the AMeghany Mountains on the east, and crossing the ridg(; to conn(?ct the waters of the ISu-^quehannah with the Allegliany and Ohio rivers, ascending the main branch of the Susquehannah with the divid- ing point of the eastern and western branches, it contemplates an improved navigation to the sources of these great streams, as well as some of their tributary branches — presenting one connect- ed chain of improved or canal navigation of not less than five hundred miles in extent.*' The eastern part of this work was completed in 1827 — from the Susquehannah at Middlelown to Harrisburgh. A Basin is formed in the river at the mouth of the Swatara, opposite the basin oi the Union Canal, with wiiich it communicates by a lock of2J feet lift. It has also an outlet lock, and a lock opening into the Swatara of 9 feet lift. The canal lies principally in an easy, alluvial soil, from the Susquehannah to Ilarisburgh, and pass- es over extensive tracts of level country. There are ten locks in that distance, beginning \vith the outlet lock at Middletown. Thev are all 17 feet by 90 in the chamber. The canal passes on aque- ducts over Paxton, Fishing, Stony, and Clark's creeks, and is supplied from the Susquehannah, from fifteen miles above Harrisburgh.] ROUTES 10 THE COAL MINES. In consequence of the opening of the vast beds of coal between the Delaware and Schuylkill riv- ers, at a distance of about 80 or 1 00 miles north of Phiiddelphia, that tract of country has become an object of great interest. ^ 1 1 356 ROUTES TO THE COAL MINES. jtsi \y ii i( Tlic Union Canal runs from tlic Scluiylkill at Readiiii^ to Midtllctown on the Susciuchannah. [The triivellcr may make Bedford Springs an object on this rout(».] In the tract of country north from Philadelphia are found inexhaustibh; (|uaiiliiies» of coal, in ele- vated ridges and mountains of the Allef^hany range, which are supposed to be connected with those which are known on the western side of the range, although thiy are of diOefent characteris- tics. The western coal is easily combustible, and resembles that imported from Liverpool, AlC., while the former is hard, very difficult to kindle, and burns with very little flame. It is, however, of great purity, being of that sort known to geol- ogists by the name of Anthracite, and is now very extensively used for fuel in Philadelphia, New- York, and different parts of the country. The varieties of this coal come down in a kind of rude square boats, called arks, drawing only 12 or 15 inches of water, but containing about 250 bushels each, which may usually be seen on the shores of the Schuylkill, and at the docks in the Delaware. It is only a few years since this coal was supposed to be entirely worthless; and now the demand is enormous. The whole length of the line of navigation, undertaken and completed by the Schuylkill com- pany, is 110 miles ; and the work is the greatest ever performed in this country by private individ- uals. It commences at the Lancaster Schuylkill bridge, and ends at Mount Carbon. Sixty-two miles of it are by canals, and 46 by pools in the river. The number of houses for lock keepers is 4\ iiylkill at nnah. )rings an iladclpbia ill, in clc- (^lU'ghany cled with jitle of the inracteris- slible, and loul, &.C.9 to kindle, , however, n to geol- i now very hia, New- itry. The id of rude V 12 or 15 50 bushels e shores of Delaware, supposed demand is lavigation, Ikill com- le greatest ite individ- jSchuylkill Sixty-two lols in the I keepers is ROUTE TO THE SCIIITYLKILL MINKS. 357 65, tlio number of locks below Rrading, 39, (toll 6^ cents,) and nbove Reading, 8(i, (toll 4 cents,) being in the whole lli5, of which ti» are guard locks; ovorconiing a fall of ()1() feet, 'foil on a ton, $11 35J cents. In 1827, KW9 boats were loaded at Mount (^arbon, for Philadelphia, with coal: in all, 31,364 tons. Numerous railroads extend to the Schuylkill from the various coal mines. Eight ranges of mountains pass through Penn- sylvania from north-east to south-west, and the height of land is -.upposed to be 8 or 900 feet in the lowest place, so that the rivers descend very much in their courses. It has been necessary to make morr lockage on the SuhuylUill line, than on the whole Erie canal in New-York. Besides this, the country is of the transition formation, with sloping strata, which cause much leaking. Road to the Lehigh Coal Mines, at Mauck Chunk, Philadelphia to Rising Sun, 4 miles; Branchtown, ((Quid's tavern,) 4; Shoemakcrtown, 8; Jenkintown, 10; Abington, 12; Willowgrove, 14; Horsham, 16; Graham Park, 22; Newville, — ; Doyleston, 26; Danville, 29; Roderick's ta- vern, — ; Tohicken bridge, — ; Easton, (see page 363,) 5; Mauch Chunk, (see page 365,) — . The traveller may take either the Stage Coacht or the Canal Route to the Schuylkill Coal Mines, at Mount Carbon. The canal boats start on the Schuylkill at regular hours, ft>r which the traveller is referred to the newspapers. A car- riage will be necessary, as the boats lie at th<' western extremity of the city. On this route a boat with one horse performs the work of 7 wag- 80 i rr m m' ^8 ROUTES TO THE COAL MINES. ons and 28 horses. Merchandise goes from Phil- adelphia to Mount Curbon for $5 a ton. Manayunk is a large manufacturing village, be- gun only about 1819 or 1820. The manufactories are furnished with water by a canal 3 miles in length, through which the boat will pass. [The county of Delaware, which is very small, contains numerous manufactories of different de- scriptions, moved by water.] Passing from tlie canal, the boat enters the Flat Rock Basin and the river. Plymouth Locks. — Here is a canal about three- quarters of a mile long. The marble quarries are in this vicinity ; from which stone is sent to Philadelphia. Norristown contains some fme houses, as well as a court house, jail, and two churches. A bridge has been erected here 800 feet lonjr. Pottsgi'ove, 36 miles from Philadelphia, is a pretty village. Readings 54 miles from Philadelphia, is a place of considerable importance, inhabited by Germans, and contains some handsome public buildings. The Union Canal begins below the town at a point 60 miles from Philadelphia. [The Union Canal passes up the western shore of the river, to the valley of the Tulpe- hocken ; and follows that valley till within five miles of Lebanon, where begins the summit level. In all this distance it rises 311 feet, by numerous locks of 4 and 8 feet lift. The canal is 24 feet wide at bottom, 4 deep, and 36 on the surface. The Summit Level is ten miles and 78 chains in length. On this part of the canal is the Tunnel; ROUTES TO THE COAL MINES. 359 m Phil- age, be- actoried miles in y small, rent de- the Flat ut three- quarries i sent to , as well Abridge lia, is a s a place ermans, uildings. wn at a western Tulpe- ithin five mit level, lumerous 3 24 feet surface. hains in Tunnel ; jr an excavation bored through a hill for a distance of 729 feet. 18 feet in breadth and 14 feet high. The great water-wheel, at the mouth of Clark's Creek, is 36 feet in diameter, and raises the water from the Swatara Feeder into the summit, near Lebanon. It works two forcing pumps 14^ inches in diameter, and propels water through a raising main 8oO feet long, 20 in diameter, to a perpen- dicular heiglit of 93 feet. The Union canal was commenced in 1823 and finished in 1827; and, including the navigable Feeder, is above 80 miles in extent. The whole expense was about a million and a half. The summit level lies on a limestone soil, which makes it necessary to plank the bottom and sides of the canal. The summit level opens westwardly upon the valley of Clark's Creek. Hence the canal passes on the Swatara river, which has iwo dams, and whose course it follows to Middletown on the Susquehannah. The descent to this river from the summit level is 192 feet 6 inches, sur- mounted by 37 locks. There are 12 aqueducts on the whole route, one of them 276 feet long, and another 165. There are 92 lift locks, 75 feet wide and 72 long : most of them laid with water cement. We return to the Schuylkill Navigation.] From Reading, the road passes near Duncan^s Job^ a piece of deep cutting in a solid rock, 60 feet down. Numerous shafts have heen sunk near the Schuylkill for Anthracite coal. The Peach Orchard mines afford heaiitiful particolored speci- mens. In these, and others, specks and lumps of perfect charcoal have been found, imbedded in 'r'' III 360 ROUTES TO THE COAL MINES. !• If ill I f i i ' the fossil — with other appearances which tend to raise many conjectii.es concerning tlie original formation of these mines. The road to Hamburgh from Reading lies throuijh the Great Limestone Valley of Pennsylvania; which has the Kittatiniiy 'chain of mountains on the north, and the Blue Ridge on the south. The surface is beautifully varied by the natural undulations of the surface; and the road affords a very fine succession of beautiful scenes, where the well-cultivated farms are usually backed by ranges of fine mountains. The inhabitants dwell in good, and often hand- some houses, while their great stone barns speak thorough husbandry. The Mountain Dam, near Hamburgh, is 27 feet high. Hamburgh. This is a small village, with a church situated in a romantic position, at the en- trance of the Schuylkill IVatei^ Gap.— This is a narrow gorge, through which the river runs over a steep and rocky channel for four or five miles; leaving no room upon its banks, which rise several hundred feet. The road has been cut out alonff the face of one of these ranges, at a great elevation. The views which are here afl^orded to the traveller are romantic and varied in a high degree; presenting the woody mountains in different directions, with the course of the Schuylkill winding through them. The Little Schvylldll River, a branch of the principal stream, runs through a valley of the same general desciiption; and here lies the road to Mount Carbon. The country will liardly ad- rait of any cultivation. th] MOUNT CARBON. 3(il ?nd to •ij>inal burgh BStone atinny J Blue itifuUy irface ; ion of farms nlains. hand- speak T, near with a the en- gorge, p and ing no undred face of The lor are senting IS, with hrough of the of the "lie road lly ad' The TunncL—Th] ph hill h le lunncL. — mis is a place wnere a mil iias been bored through 375 yards for a canal, about three miles from Orvvigsburgh. Port Carbon, at the head of the Schuylkill navigation, is a point at which the railroads of Mill Creek and the valley terminate. Orwigsburgh, about eij«ht miles from the Gap, is three miles from the ^iver, and enjoys an agree- able situation, although the soil is not very good. The German language here prevails, and is used in the church as well as in the ordinary concerns of life, MOUNT CARBON, eight miles, is in sight of several coal mines. The coal country in this region begins in Lu- zerne, on the upper part of the Lackawanna Riv- er, following its course to the Susquehannah, and along that stream, principally on the eastern bank, to 18 miles beyond Wiikesbarre. It runs south to the Lehigh River, and thence south-west, through Schuylkill county. It is estimated to extend about 70 miles ; and about the middle of the range is 8 or 9 miles wide, growing narrower towards each end. At Mount Carbon the coal occurs in beds 4 or 5 feet in thick- ness, generally running east and west ; and dip- ping to the south at 45 degrees, with a slate rock immediately over it, and strata of sandstone and earth above. The slate, as usual, in the vicinity of coal, presents the impressions of organized substances at some ancient period imbedded in its «'Mbstance : such as the leaves of laurel, fern, &c. In consequence of the inclination of the coal veins into the earth, the miners have, in some pla- 30* ir m "4t 'I I I I !;W, 362 ROUTE TO THiJ COAL MINES. 'i '0. ;! iHii ces, sunk shafts to ihe depth of 160 feet, with lat- eral excavations, east and west, of various lengths, to 300. Two small carriages called Trams, are used in a sloping shaft to bring the coal out, be- ing made to descend by turns; but in the horizon- tal one, wliicli has l)een carried in about 500 feet, they employ wheelbarrows. Some of the veins run perpendicularly. Sharp Mountain, 600 feet high, and Broad Mountain, 0(»0, are penetrated by numerous mines. The coal is dug out with wedges, drills, and sled- ges, &-C. and as it costs only about $50 to open a mine, and nothing else but labor in digging and raising it, the advantages are not confined to cap- italists. VVaggonerrJ are ready to transport the coal to the landings, and put it into boats. The canal has been extended from Port Carbon up to Mill Creek, which will supply great quanti- ties of coal. Route to the Lehigh Coal Mines, at Mauch Chunk. The traveller going from Philadelphia to the Lehigh Mines, may take one of the steam- boats to Bristol, whence a stage coach starts, on their arrival, for Newtown and New-Hope, 34 miles from Philadelphia ; and thence for Easton, 36 miles more, nearly all of which is along the bank of the Delaware, and commands a view of its wild and interesting scenery. * There are three routes from Philadelphia by which Mauch Chunk may be reached: 1st. By the way of Bethlehem ; 2d. By the wiy of Easton through Doylestown ; and 3d. By the way of Bris- tol, also throagh Easton. By either route you reach the village in a day and a half. [For these places, see Index.'] Lth lat- nigths, IS, are ut, be- orizon- feet, e veins Broad 5 mines. (1 sled- open ng and to cap- >ort the Carhon quanti- Mauch delphia steam- rts, on pe, 34 lEaston, ng the lew of )hia by- It St. By Easton lof Bris- ite you Ir these EASTON. 363 New-Hope is in a romantic situation ; and Goat Hill rises opposite to the height of 500 feet, its top affording a fine view. 2 miles south of this village is Ingham's Spring, which furnishes a supply of water to many wheels. Bridges cross the Delaware to New-Jersey at New-Hope and Mitchell's. Delaware Water Gap. The scenery at this spot is romantic and beautiful. The course of the river appears at a little distance as if arrested by two opposite mountains, between which it flows in a narrow channel, suddenly contracting itself to a furlong's breadth, from a broad, smooth, and unbroken sheet like a lake of considerable extent. There is some fertile land in the vicinity, and the hills contain many mineral treasures; iron ore, &c. vfec. EASTON. This is a village of some size, and a central point from which numerous roads di- verge, and stage coaches run in various directions. It is situated in a rich valley, enclosed by the South and Blue Mountains. It is about 52 miles from Philadelphia, and contains 3000 inhabitants. Within a compass of a mile and a half are 1 8 mills ; and 250,000 barre's of flour are annually sent to the capital. (Writing slates are quarried in this vicinity.) The following is a list of distances from EaQ- ton on the different stage routes. New-York, 70 miles; Schooley's Mountain, 23; Morristown, 4^ ; New-Brunswick. 45 ; Bethlehem, 12; Mauch Chunk, 34; Nazareth, 7; Delaware Wind Gap, 20; Stroudsburgh, 27 ; Wilkesbarre, 52 ; Belvi- dere, 12; Reading, 52; Newtown, (Sussex coun- ty,) 40. M 364 ROUTE TO THE COAL MINES. From Newtown a coach runs to Montrose, Os- wego, Ithica, and Geneva, and communicates with the Erie Canal, and with the direct route to Buffalo. At Easton will be seen the dam over the Dela- ware, at the termination of the works for improv- ing the navigation of Lehigh River, from Mauch Chunk to this place. The road to Mauch Chunk leads through B':th' lehem, 12 miles. This is a neatly built place, in a romantic and delightful situation, along the course of a swift running brook. It is5 inhabited by Ger- mans, and little English v/ill be heard spoken in the place. There is an old church and an academy for the education of girls, under the management of the Moravians, to which sect the inhabitants belong. A little beyond Bethlehem the country begins to assume a mure mountainous appearance; sKivA along the banks of the Lehigh they rise to a height of seven or eight hundred feet, or even more. It is related by tradition, that nearly 100 years ago, three men set out from Bristol, to walk, be- tween sun and sun, for the title to as much land as the best pedestrian of them could cross in that time. The successful one (Edward Marshall) gained for the contractors, from the Indians, a tract extending north-west to Still Water. He passed up the Delaware and L high, round Po- €ono Mountain, ^c. a distance computed at 119 or 120 miles. The works on the Lehigh River are on a large scale, and worthy of particular remark. The river descends 365 feet, and requires 52 locks lillll fp MAUCII CHUNK RAILWAY. 3G5 •ose, Os- ates with route to he Dela- r improv- n Mauch igh B.th- )lar,e, in a he course (1 by Ger- spoken in 1 academy inagement nhabitants e country pearance ; rise to a , or even 100 years walk, be- luch land )ss in that Marshall) Indians, a [ater. He •ound Po- tedat 119 a on a large rk. The 53 locks The locks are intended for the passage of steam- boats capable of carrying 150 tons of coal, 100 feet long and 30 wide; 21 dams; the canals 60 fee- wide at the bottom, with 5 feet of water. Mauch Chunk shows mountains perhaps 1000 feet high. The Lehigh Water Cap, '25 mil s from Easton and 1 1 from Lehighton, miles from Mauch Chunk. The river, for a mile, passes through an opening in the Blue Ridge, with barely room for the road between the shore and a preci- pice. Near this spot is the DeviPs Pulpit, a re- markable cavity in the rocks. The first objects that attract attention near the village of Mauch Chunk, are the lock in the river, and the Chute, or inclined plane, at the end of the railway, down which the loaded coal cars slide to the wharf on the river, where they load the boats and arks. The latter ca: ry about 1 tons. The noise of the cars coming down the railway will often be heard rumbling as the traveller approaches the village. Mauch Chunk, 90 miles from New- York, avd 70 from Philadelphia. Stage coaches run to Easton daily — fare $1 50 — also to Berwick, Nf w- ton, and Buffalo. The village is shut in by rude mountains, of such height that the sun is invisible to many of the inhabitants during the short days. The Hotel commands a view of some parts of The Railway, which leads from near the coal mines to the Lehigh River. This was the second ever constructed in the United States. It extends a distance of 9 miles, along the side of a moun- tain. The sleepers are of wood, tlic rails are also of wood, 4 by 6 inches, and covered with an I \\^ I* ■>? I 966 THE COAL MINES* iron plate | of an inch thick. The whole con- struction cost only $4,500 a mile. The coal mine lies a little on the opposite side of the mountain ; and thij coal cars are first drawn by horses to the beginninjr of the railivuy up an acclivity of | of a mile. The summit is 982 feet above the river. Pleasure wagons are occasSoMally used to carry strangers up and down the railway; but they often go up in tbe returning cars. The average rise of the way is 18 inches in 100 feet, which is scarcely perceptible to the eye, and permits a single horse to draw up three empty cars. In coming down, however, by their own gravity, the carriages would, if permitted, move wiih immense rapidity. The road generally passes along a narrow shelf, which is alarming to a stranger, particularly in de- scending; some of the precipices being 500 or 601) feet. The Tunnel is seen in going up, about 400 feet above the road. It is 12 feet high, 20 wide, and about 800 long. It was cut through the mountain in 1826, to obtain a short passage to a bed of coal supposed to lie on the other side. A shaft was sunk sixty-four feet from the summit of the hill without finding coal; five hundred feet beyond this shaft towards the north, a hole has been bored to the depth of 110 feet, coal was found at 80 feet, and the augur continued in coal to the extremity of the bore. The Company, however, were disappointed; but they have an inexhaus- tible suppl)'^ of this useful article, as their land ex- tends 14 miles back from the river, and along the road; and 10 or 12 miles are underlaid by beds of anthracite coal. The cars may be stopped immediately by a THE COAL MINES. 367 jle con- oal nine ountain ; s to the 3f fof a le river, to carry ^ey often e rise of scarcely le horse ig down, carriages rapidity, ow shelf, irlyin de- g 500 or up, about high, 20 rough the ;aije to a side. A ummit of dred feet hole has coal was in coal to however, inexhaus- r land ex- along the by i3ed3 Itely by a long lever which brings strong bearers against two of the wheels, and causes great friction. The guide to every brigade of eleven cars holds a rope attached to all the levers. A curious machine, called the Brake, is also used. There is generally a stop to be made in the midst of the course, to wait for other cars pass- ing, and to oil the wheels. The cars weigh about 1500 lbs. each and run on wheels two feet in diameter. Strangers often make an excursion in them for the novelty of the mode of travelling. At the end of the railroad is a platform on the bank of the Lehigh River, down which the coal is let over one of the rails on an inclined plane of IbO feet (200 feet perpendicular height,) to the stone houses, the wharf, and the boats. Each loaded car is connected to an empty one, which it draws up, by a rope that passts round a large cylinder or drum. A car goes down in about 1 minute and 20 seconds. The noise of the cars on the railway is perceptible at a great distance. In 1827, 132 cars descended in a day, with 198 tons of coal. The Mine, or quarry, as it ought, perhaps, properly to be called, opens upon the road by several passages, cut deep in the earth. These conduct into an area formed by the removal of many thousand tons of coal, which have been dug out in such a manner as to keep the surface on an inclined plane, where the carts drive in, load, and then pass out at the other pas- sage. The coal is very hard, pure, and black, with a beautiful and conchoidal fracture, and per- fectly clean in handling. The surface of the ground was covered with a coat of sand 2 feet w iff ■ is' t 368 LOVVRYTOWN, 1 thick, interspersed with sandstone; under that was 8 feet of Mack pulverised coal; and then came the coal itself. Some berutiful impressions of fern leaves have been found in the rocks. LowrytowUf 15 miles above Mauch Chunk, is situated on the Lehigh River, in the midst of a most wild and romantic region. Here arc four saw-mills, which arc supplied with timber from the surrounding mountains; the trees being cut far above, and slid down their steep sides into the stream. Arks go down, as on the lower parts of the river, by being set off on the flood caused by opening the gate of the dam. Lrdies sometimes pas.^ down in this manner, boxes being resorted to instead of arks, to keey out the water. Mate- rials for building arks at Mauch Chunk, (fee. are supplied from Lowrytown. ; with front bank. Cr has a some fine Easto price Bo] FROM PHILADELPHIA TO NEW-YORK. 369 at was came ons of ink, is ;t of a c four r from ng cut nlo the arts of ised by netimes esorted Mate- LC. are ROUTE FROM PIHLADELPIIU TO P«:\V- YOKK, Bi/ Stcaviboats and Railroad. Leaving Market or Arch-street wharf, the ship house, in the navy yard, is seen over the liiile ishind in the river. Near the upper part of the city are the ship yards ; and be yond, three ghiss houses near the water, with white wails and black roofs. A steeple and a shot tower are the prin- cipal objects rising above the great mass of houses in ths city. The banks of the Delaware are low, and present a uniformity quite unfriendly to the picturesque. The towns are, however, interesting in the history of the Revolution, as will be seen a little beyornl. The Camden and Anihoy Railroad (or Delaware and Rariton Railroad,) is to extend to Camden, op- posite Philadelphia- The traveller now first meets it at Bordentown, which see for a description of it. Burlington, in New-Jersey, 18 miles from Philadelphia, presents a handsome appearance ; with a row of fine residences facing the river, in front of which is a street with a beautiful sloping bank. Bristol, a little above, and on the opposite side, has also a number of gentlemen's seats ; and hand- some flower gardens on the bank, ornaniented with fine willows, &c. A stage coach goes hence to Easton every day, on the arrival oi the steamboat, price of a passage, $3. Bordentown, 28 miles from Philaaelphia, and 31 I! m 370 FROM PIIILADELPIIIA TO NEW-YORK. j f I 7 below Trniton, Htnnds on a strrp sand bank, tbrou^li which n rojitJ is cut to tht; \val(;r. Jus*t north of the vilhi^c is [\\v house (jfJoscpli liuona- parte, the Count (ie SurviMicrs, once kin! IK. 11(1 bank, ,er. JuHt )h Tuona- {)( Spain. ,w square r it by ibc to extend roni 8(»iith an, to tbe is the Phi- y com pic t- iladcipbia. I of it pass- niles along ome pica- level, as to in a mile. Icrabie ex- and the hill is 2 miles ace. The oh stone is truction of n Philadel- expense of ing steam- Ittture have to Hudson a, is a town r of stores, dge across iial which is TRENTON. 371 lierc made round the rapids, siippH(*H water power ; and here bi'gins the DilawarL' and Uaritan Canal whicfi crosses the state. Lamberton is a villa ^e wjirre the roacn oflices are, and apparently I'ornis a part of 'I'rentnn. The State Prison is siliiated a little south of the town. New-Jersey lias a school fund of about S-*^C, 000, yielding about $I(),pt along he rivers i cultural and plain ther por- of this, the child- cient evi- ( dence. Western families are proverbially large. What may be the cllect of the climate of the entire valley, on the human race, when the constitutions of future generations shall have fairly conformed to it, we pretend not positively to predict. We do not doubt, however, that it will be favorable. Were it admissible in us to discuss the subject, reasons might be given, to authorise the belief, that the western population will be a noble one. It will be long before luxury can corrupt and enfeeble it. Industry and frugality will render the inhabitants active and hardy ; and a steady disposition to observe and enquire, will supply them with know- ledge. Nor is this all. Man is improved in his person and character like his domestic animals, by a sufficient supply of wholesome food, a free and pure atmospliere, liberal exercise, and skillful training. A country of health and plenty is always stocked with a vigorous race of men, i»rjd of such domestic animals, as are carefully reared in it. The reverse is cquully true, in a sickly country, or a sterile one, where food is scarce, noJiing can thrive. Man, in common with other animals, is reduced in his stature, strength, and efficiency. To this, there is no exception ; nor can there be, under the present economy of nature. In a coun- try of such health and abundance, as the Missis- sippi Valley, therefore, man can scarcely fail, under a system of suitable training, to attain the full perfection of his nature." am. q. rev. The Emigrant and the traveller will proceed either by the northern lakes, by some of the fif- teen roads leading from tfie Atlantic States, or by ship to N. Orleans, and thence in steamboats. i V: te Mr W 380 ROUTES TO THE WEST. I- 1^ Most of the roads are turnpikes. They are as follows : 1st. From N. York along Lake Erie. 2d. From Buffalo to Meadville. 3d. From Harrisburgh Penn, through Belle- fonte to Erie. 4th. From Harrisburgh through Lewistown, Huntingdon to Pittsburgh. 5th. From Philadelphia through Harrisburgh, Carlisle, Chambersburg and Bedford, to Pittsburg. 6th. From Baltimore through Cumberland, to Wheeling. 7th. From Washington, (D. C.) through the valley of Virginia to East Tennessee. 8th. From Richmond through Staunton, (cross- ing the 7th,) to Charleston, Virginia, to Guandot on Ohio river. 9th. From Wilkesborough, N. C. to Green- ville. 10th. From Rutherford through Asheville to Greenville. 11th. From Pendleton, S. C. across the S. W. corner of N. Carolina to Tennessee, (the Unika turnpike.) 12th. Several roads from Georgia into East Tennessee and Alabama. There are also other roads, but these are the principal. Travellers will commonly go westward from Baltimore or Philadelphia, and return by the lakes to Buffalo, or vice versa. No precise route will be pursued in the following pages, but such pla- ces will be described, and such subjects will be noticed as may prove most interesting to both ^ are as h Belle- ^istown, risburgh, •ittsburg. •land, to 3 ugh the in,(cross- Guandot 3 Green- leville to he S. W. le Unika nto East are the ard from the lakes ■oute will such pla- s will be g to both ROUTES TO THE WEST. 381 travellers and emigrants, after a (ew suggestions to the latter, relating to arrangements fur their journey to the Western States. Farmers going to settle in the West, had better travel with their horses and wagons if they have them, and take their ch)thing, tools, kitchen uten- sils, and in general all lighter and mora valuable moveables. The heavier may in some cases be advantageously sent by water, but can generally be purchased in the West at a saving. The Emi- grants Guide, estimates the expense of transport- ing the baggage of a settler, from New-England or New-York, by the Erie Canal and the Lakes, to any spot not above 100 miles from the lakes or Cincinnati, at from $2,50 to $3 per cwt. On the roads, the price per cwt. to the navigable waters of the Mississippi, gradually increases from about these sums as we go south. A voyage to the Mis- sissippi, by the way of New-Orleans, is liabie to uncertainty in respect to time and expense; and at certain seasons to disease. Travelling in stage coaches in the West is gen- erally from 4J to (> cents a mile. From N. Orleans to St, Louis, by steamboat, $25. St. Louis to Beardstown, or Quincy, Illinois, by steamboat, $(». St. Louis to Galena, Illinois, by steamboat $12. [Deck passevgers irsi\e\ in the Western steam- boats at hd or J the price of cabin passengers. They have a shelter from the weather, but must provide their own food.] The expenses of travelling from Boston to Pittsburgh, in the cheapest manner, were a little 32 ';i 'k 382 ROUTES TO THE WEST. I ;: less than .^50 for an emigrant and !iis wife, with* out including uny frei«rht ; and from Pittsburgh to Jacksonville, Illinois, a little less than $00. The whole tlislance is 1, 319 miles, and is often taken by the quantity for a round sum, which is gen- erally the cheapest manner of arranging for the transportation. Freight from New Orleans to St. Louis, about 62^ cts. per cwt. From New Orleans to Louis- ville and Nashville, about the same. From New Orleans to Cincinnati, the rates increases from 50 to 70 cts., when the Louisville Canal is impassable. Time for travelling' West, The roads are broken up in the spring, and often overflown, and do not become good until the weather is warm and settled. The spring is however the best season to travel by water; the rivers rising above the common obstacles dangerous to boats. Sometimes the rivers subside in May. The Autumn is best [Stage routes and expenses. Philadelphia to Pittsburgh, 300 miles, $l6,.S0. Pittsburgh to Wheeling, 59 m. $4,50. Philadelphia to Balti- more, 128 m. $3- Baltimore to Wheeling, 271, m. $15,50. Wheeling to Columbus, 140 m. $8. Columbus to Cleaveland, 177 m. $10,50. Colum- bus to Chillicothe, 45 m. $2. Chillicothe to Cin- cinnati, 94 m. $5,50, (direct, 1 10 m. $0,50.) Cin- cinnati to Lidianapolis, ll2 m. $5,75. Indianap- olis to Madison, 86 m. $4. Cincinnati to Lexing- ton, 76 m. $4,50. Lexington to Louisville, 75 m. $4,50. Louisville to St. Louis, through Vincennes, 2(37 m. $15,o0. Louisville to Nashville, 180 m. $12.] ROUTE TO ST. LOUIS. u63 nfe, with- itiburgh to 00. The (ten taken cli is gen- iir for the uis, about to Louis- ^rom New IS from 60 npassable. roads are flown, and warm and 2st season above the Sometimes an is best lelphia to sburgh to a to Balti- >ling, 271, to m. $S. . Colum- he to Cin- 50.) Cin- Indianap- to Lexing- ille, 75 m. V^inceniies, le, 180 m. for travelling by land : there being little rain, the roads are grnerally very good, and, the harvest being home, cvrry thing is cheap. Health. Travelling in steamboats is best adapt- ed to the Spring, because shelter is allorded. Land travelling is better in Autumn, because the weather is neither ver} cold nor very hot. The heats of summer, as well as the cold of winter, en- danger the health, especially of those not accus- tomed to them, as many of the inns are small log houses. Rotite and expenses from New-York to St, Louis, New-York to Albany, including food, 146 miles, from $\ to $2. Albany to Bufl'alo, by Erie Canal, in a boat, ^15 (JO. (In a line boat about Buffalo to Erie, by steam, Burtalo to Ashtabula, by do. BulTalo to Cieaveland, Ohio, by do. Erie to B'.^aver, on the Ohio, by stage, inclu- ding food, 5 50 Beaver to Cincinnati, steamboat, 10 Cincinnati to Louisville, do. 3 Louisville to Shawneetown, do. 6 Do. to St. Louis, do. 12 Steamboat Route to St, Louis, via Lake Erie, &c. above 1200 miles. From Buffak to Dunkirk, 45 miles, Portland 60, Erie 90, Salem 120, Ashtabula 135, Grand River 165, Cieaveland 195, Huron 245, Sandusky 260, Detroit 330, Mackina (iOO, Green Bay 750, Chica- go 900. Stage coaches run from most of these ports into the country. Stage coaches go from Chicago to St. Louis, 320 miles. packet 9.) 3 4 50 6 00 m 884 ROUTE TO ST. LOUIS. I! 1 I A cabin passage from Buflhlo to Detroit, costs ; a (lock passage, $1. A i'iimily • 5 or () per- sons, Willi a vvaj^on load of ruriiilure, may liave a comfortable deck passage in tjie sumnuT for |^'^0. The prices to other places are generally in pro- portion. The harbors in Lake Erie have been furnished with two parallel piers each, by the general gov- ernment, through which the rivers flow, thus pre- venting the accumulation of sand in bars. Detroit has about 3(U>0 inhabitants, and is fast increasing. Numerous emii^rants arrive annually. About 4 of the inhabitants are of French origin. It was settled in 1670. The churches are a Pres- byterian, Episcopal, Methodist, Baptist and Ro- man. Michigan contains a great proportion of excel- lent land, is passable in many parts in wagons, in its natural state, almost surrounded by water, of- fers great facilities for intercourse, and is settled chiefly from N. York and N. England, with 45,000 inhabitants. The Western States of the American Union, or "the West," as that part of it is familiarly call- ed, lie on that side of the Alleghany Mountains, and on the Mississippi river or its branches. This river, receives the water flowing from all the coun- try between the summits of the Alleghanies and Rocky Mountains, which are about lOUO miles apart, at the Gulf of Mexico: and more distant near the head of this great river, so that it drains an extent of about 1,300,000 square miles. Vast prairies, destitute in a great measure of trees, and bearing but few species of plants, occupy a large ROUTE TO AT. LOriS. 385 oil, costs or () pcr- ly Imve a •for $2{). \y ill i)ro- fiirnishcd eral gov- thus pre- • u\ is fast annually. ^h origin. e a Prcs- and Ro- of excel- ^gons, in ater, of- s settled th 45,000 1 Union, arly call- ountains, U. This llie coun- lies and (JO miles e distant it drains s. Vast •ees, and y a large i portion of these regions; and a small part oidy is yet inha])il('(l, except by wihl animals, or wander- ing Indian tribes, who live |)riM(-ipiilly by hunting. Tlie Mississij)pi and nmtjy of its branches are subject to great (loods in tiu; Spring, and ihe nu- merous steamboats, Hals and arks, by which they are navigated, are exposed to rapids, currents, shoals, eddies, and logs partly imbedded in the bottom, especihlly at low water. Logs or trees fixed at one end, projecting upwards and slanting in the direction of the stream, are called sawyers, as they are kept in motion by the water. Plant- ers are those which point in the opposite direclion, aad are peculiarly dangerous to vessels conung down the stream. Sriaijs are such obstructions caused by bjgs, stumps, &c. as are not included in the above. Passages down are much shorter than up the rivers, and less expensive. The navigation is often interrupted to the upper ports, by low water. The tide is but little perceived in the Miss* sippi. Part of West Florida and the regions w ered by streams not flowing into the Mississippi, in Georgia, Mississippi and Alabama, are commonly included as parts of the Great Western Valley and under that view it euibraces the following di visions :-Michigan l^rritorv, 38,000 square miles Illinois, 57,900 ; Indiana, *3(),500 ; Ohio, 39,750 Part of Pennsylvania, 15,833; Part of Virginia 26,649; Kentucky, 40,500; Missouri, 6:),500 Tennessee, 40,200; Arkansas, 60,700; Mississip- pi, 47,680 ; Louisiana, 49,300 ; Alabama, o2,900; West Florida, 27,840; with the following Indian regions J— Mandans, 295,203; Sioux, 162,385 32* i>t 386 HISTORY. m Hurons, 120,975; Osages, 91,980; Ozarks, 83, 350. — Total, 1,363,146 square miles. To this may be added 26,000 square miles of New-York, N. Carolina, and Georgia, &c. History, In 1512, Ponce de Leon, discovered the continent, in lat. 30 deg., and called it Flori- da. Grivalva and Vasques landed in 1518 and 1524, but established no permanent settlement. Narvaez, in 1528, had no better success., Fer- dinand Ce Soto, afterwards crossed from Florida and the Mississippi. Ad. Coligny, in 1564, planted a Huguenot colony near St. \ugustine, which was cut off by the Spaniards, for heresy, which was revenged by De Gourges. The northen parts of the valley of the Mississippi, were visited by Frenchmen, after the settlement of Quebec, in 1G08. Maguette, a Jesuit, discovered that river in 1673. In 1679, La Salle, spent the winter in the Illinois; and in 1680, Hennepin passed down the Mississippi to the falls of St. Anthony. Cahokia and Kaskaskia, were settled by La Salle, in l6i>3, who next year landed in Texas, and having failed in attempting to discover the mouth of the great rivei, was murdered in attempting to reach the Illinois. Ibberville found<^d Biloxi in 1699, having sailed nearly 300 miles up the Mississippi ; after which missions and trading stations were formed. Bien- ville, for many years the French governor of the country, founded New-Orleans, in 1719; which event was soon succeeded by the destruction of the Natchez Indians, and repeated dissensions with the Spaniards in Mexico. The " Mississippi bubble," in which above 300,001) dollars was HISTORY. 387 arks, 83, To this ew-York, iscovered it Flori- 1518 and jttlement. ss. Fer- n Florida i-, planted vhich was ^hich was 1 parts of isited by uebec, in Jt river in ter in the down the Cahokia , in 16&3, in^ failed -he great each the ng sailed er which 1. Bien- or of the ) ; which iction of ssensions ississippi lars was sunk by Frenchmen, dates in 1717. Prosperity prevailed in Louisiana from 1736 till 1754, when the war between France and England began. The French built forts in Erie, Penn. a branch of French Creek and Pittsburgh, and in 1753 and 1755, Washington and Braddock were defeated in attempting to oppose them. In 1758 and '59 Pittsburgh, Niagara, Ticonderoga, and Quebec, were taken by the English. In '62 France secret- ly ceded all west of the Mississippi, to Spain ; and in '63 all east of it to England, Spain ceding to England, Florida. During the revolution, Gen. Clark took Vincennes, and the Spanish and French took Baton Rogue, Mobile, and Pensacola, for the Americjins. England, in '83, ceded Florida to Spain, which she, after a long dispute with the U. States, on the boundary, secretly gave over to France, who, in turn, sold it to the U. S. for 15 millions of dollars. Some of the Western States suffered greatly from the Indians, for fifteen years after peace was declared. In 1790, Gen. Harman w&s defeated near Chillicothe, with about 1,500 men; and in '91, Si. Clair, with 1,400, near Miami river. Be- tween 1783 and '93, about 1,500 persons were killed, captured by Indians, in Kentucky; and nearly as many in West Pennsylvania and Vir- ginia. Gen. Wayne, with 3,000 men, defeated them, in '94, at Miami of the Lake, which led to peace. Various battles were fought in the last war, in the west, which need not be particularized ; and there have been some Indian disturbances more recently. The large and numerous steamboats which ply 888 WIND?. s on the Mississippi, and many of its tributaries, offer the most important advantages to emigration, as well as to the trnnsportatioM of goods. Boats were formerly three months in going from New- Orleans to Louisville, and now the passage is made in 15 or 20 days, including many stops; and the prices of freight have been greatly reduc- ed. There are probably above 500 steamboats now in use, many of which offer elegant accom- modations to {ja-^sengers, at a very low rate. Cabin passengers are often invited to go on board even a day or two before the time of departure, and are charged nothing additional for their lodg- ing and food. The boats on the Aiississippi make five trips in a year. The trip from Louisville to Pittsburgh, is made in 8 or 9 days. Much has been done in the West, by different societies, to supply it with bibles, tracts, sabbath schools, preachers, and to promote temperance and learning. There are about 30 colleges, se- veral medical school??, theological seminaries, acadenjies, lyceums, &lc. and the society in some of the towns, is very polished and intelligent. Winds. The Emigrant's Guide states, that at Cincinnati, the winds prevail in the following order : 8. W.— N. W.-N. E.— 8. E.-W.~E.— S. — and N. The S. W. wind is the prevalent one for 9 months, from March to November. The N. W. in Dec. Jan. Feb. Through the year the W. wind prevails. The dry south west wind, in the valley of the Ohio, rises in the morning, in- creases through the day, and subsides at night, preceding a clear night. The moist S. W. which is far more rare, prevails several days and nights. i\ ' r SOIL. 389 butariee, igration, . Boats nn New- issage is y stops ; ly rcduc- ^aiiiboats I accom- jvv rate, on board eparture, eir lodg- ppi make isville to different sabbath [iperance eges, se- iiinaries, in some ent. ^ that at oMowing ^— E.— ilent one The N. »'ear the ivind, in ning, ia- t night, h which 1 nights, alternates with the N. E. and brings clouds and generally rain. The N. W. wind is also of two kinds, one of which (the dry and more prevalent) begins to leeward, and brings fair weather after rain ; except in Spring and Autumn, when it often brings showers and deep snows. It blows all night, and precedes a S. W. wind. It raises the barometer highest, as the S. W. sinks it low- est. The moist N. W. begins to windward, and brings thunder showers in the summer. The N. E. wind appears to leave its moisture on the Alleghanies, being more dry beyond them ; though it brings clouds or rain, except when it succeeds the moist S. W. and a storm. It feels damp and cool, but not so unpleasant as near the Atlantic ; and often continues for a week, and fre- quently with clear weather when it comes after the N. W. wind. The S. E. is damp, and brings rain or snow. The W. is strong, cool, dry, and agreeable. In the winter it brings severe cold. Soil, The valley of the Ohio river, is general- ly fertile, but in various parts quite the contrary. Springs are abundant and good, where the ground is irregular; but where it is level, and particu- larly in some of the lime-stone regions of Ken- tucky, good water is very scarce. Timber abounds through the Ohio vallry, but is scarce amonar the lakes and prairies, in the upper parts of the Mis- sissippi, where the soil is of very various qualities, but along the streams the alluvion is very rich. The Missouri Valley is generally destitute of water and timber, except the banks of the stream. The lower part of the Mississippi, in its wide ex- tent, presents great varieties of form, vegetable l }?! I '.I 390 TIMBER. and mineral productions. Near the mouth the soil is rich, low and flat, and the climate, a large part of the year, deadly to strangers. The vallics and plains near the Rocky Mountains, are cold and barren ; and on the Arkansas, the ground is dry and elevated. The richest soil to be found in the U. States, lies along the Scioto and Miami ri- vers several counties near Lexington, Ken., some parts of Michigan and Missouri, and the borders of Wabash and Sangamon rivers, in Indiana and Illinois. Timber* The sycamore is the largest of the trees in the western states, and when hollowed by age, sometimes affords a shelter to cattle or men. The yellow poplar is next in size. Oaks, elms, the walnut, beech, dogwood, persimmon, plum, crab apple, and ash, are found in most parts of the west; the sugar maple in the north and middle, the cotton, wood on the lower part of Ohio and the Mississippi, the catalpa on the latter, the pec- can, (a nut tree) in Illinois and Missouri; the pawpaw in the middle of the Mississippi Valley ; the china tree ornaments many of the towns ; the magnolia is conspicuous in the forests of Louisi- ana and Florida ; the cypress and swamp gum pre- vail in the swamps south of the Ohio ; while the live oak is found only on the coasts of the Gulf of Mexico, where the lig, orange, olive, &c. find a favorable climate. Animals. Around the head streams of the Mississippi, and the rivers west of it, roam the elk and buH'alo, the white bear, antelope and mountain sheep; and there are found the prairie dog and the beaver. All the birds in the eastern i I' CLIMATE, 391 uth the » large e vallics re cold ound is \)und in [ianii ri- )., some borders ana and of the )wed by or men. :1ms, the im, crab 5 of the middle, io and he pec- iri ; the Valley ; ns ; the Louisi- um pre- hile the Gulf of . iind a of the oam the pe and prairie eastern ( Statos are known in the west, and besides these, in difl'erent parts, pelicans, prairie hens, parroquets, &c. The most remarkable reptiles, are thg alli- gator, which is found south of 34 degrees, niocco- sin, rattle, copper head, horned and other snakes, scorpions, lizards, &c. The fish are various and numerous. The Missouri is really the upper part of the Mississippi, although not so in name. It has double the quantity of water at the junction. From the head of the Missouri to the mouth of the Missis- sippi is above 4,000 ms. In that distance it passes through the changes of climate, between regions where snow is almost perennial and those where the sugar cane flourishes. From Prairie du Chien north, snow lies about five months, but po- tatoes, wild rice, and common grain flourish. Missouri, Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, and parts of adjacent states, not below lat. 36 degrees oO min. abound in wheat, and other grain ; fruit, (which does not grow in the first district,) hemp and to- bacco, and with a little cotton. Between this lat- itude and 31 degrees, orchards flourish, and cot- ton grows well, but is not so important a crop as further S. Between 31 and 33 deg. cotton is the principal crop, and sugar is made in some of the lower parts. Below 31 deg. in Louisiana and Florida, sugar is a leading article of produce, and oranges and other tropical fruits flourish. There is very little winter. Tlie forests put forth leaves in February, and bloom by the beginning of March. Climate. The climate of the Mississippi Val- ley, is generally more proportioned to the latitude Ku t V !! n ■ ! I ' III 'i k 392 CLIMATE. lit t-Vf than that of other parls of the U. S., its surface being nearly level ; but on the high hinds ahjng the upper streams it is said to be colder. Indeed the mean cold of winter, is thought to be greater along the centre of the valley, than in correspond- ing latitudes near the ocean, by 2 or 3 degrees. Hraiih. Fever and ague prevails very much along the centre and lower parts of the valley, particularly among new comers; as do all remit- ting fevers. In the interior oi' the states general- ly, where the land is high, the forests have been cleared, and there is no stagnant water, the cli- mate is considered perfectly healthy. In the southern regions of the west, the deadly Yellow Fever commits great ravages in summer and au- tumn, particularly near the water and marshes. Persons born in a northern climate, fall its prey in great numbers, and should never stay after its ap- pearance, un!e"5S acclimated. Persons going to these regions from the north, are advised by the "Emigrant's Guide," to observe the following precautions : To arrive in autumn, to spend three or four hot seasons at the north, to choose the healthiest situations, to be temperate and re- gular, and to avjid night air, and exposure to the sun, between 10 and 4 o'clock. These precau- tions might have saved many lives. Remitting and intermitting bilious fevers, are the prevailing diseases, and destroy many more lives in the year than the yellow fever. The na- tives however, are much less liable to disease thaa strangers. Affections of the liver here lakes^ the place of those of the lungs, at the north ; and the best resort for one liable to them, is a north- ern summer. WATER. 393 surface Is along Indeed greater cspond- degrecs. y much valley, II rernit- gen era I'- ve been the cli- In the Yellow and au- marshes. s prey in r its ap- Foing to by the llowing spend choose and re- e to the precau- th In the northern parts of tlie Mississippi Valley, ili id till ) ers, are y more The na- ase than e takes th ; and a north- c variable climate vanes (ii-cases ; aiiu mere the colder seasons are inucli more unhealthv than in the south. In the summer also, cholera and dysentary prevail with severity in many places near streams, where the land hag not been entire- ly cleared ; but bilious fevers are generally rare and mild. [ IVater, Strangers should be greatly on their guard against the water, in many places where the soil is of lime, as it relaxes the bowels, and often unfits them for travelling with pleasure, although it is said to produce no permanent ill ef- fects, and gives no inconvenience, after the system has become accustomed to it.] Pleurisy, croup and colds, are very common, though consumption is very rare, through the western states, and may be arrested in families by emigration from the east to the Ohio, Wabash, or Cumberland. Acute inflammations of thejjints, brain, and liver, are common in the cold season. Other diseases are also Known, many of which are common in the eastern states; but the country is on the whole healthy, as is proved by the rapid increase of population. September and October are the most unhealthy months for travelling. Antiquities, The curious traveller will find in the museums in Cincinnati, Pittsburgh, and other towns, many interesting objects taken from the ancient tumuli, forts, burying grounds, &c., which are numerous in the West but whose history is unknown, as well as Indian implements, weapons, &c. Near Newark, Ohio, are several forts, one of 40 acres, with wails 10 feet high; and in the 33 li 394 SCHOOLS. same vicinity about 1000 wells. Others were found near Cincinnati, Wlieciing, Marietta, St. Louis, Cahokia, &lc. Weather, Observations show, that in tlio upper parts of the Mississippi Valley, July, August, and September are the fairest months, November, De- cember, January, and February, the most cloudy. About 36 inches of water, the quantity which falls annually east of the mountains, is supposed to fall in the West. April and May are the most rainy months ; but there is much irregularity in this re- spect. Snow rarely falls in Tennessee deeper than 2 or 3 inches ; and north of this to the waters flowing north, it regularly deepens. At Cincin- nati, snow is never deeper than a foot, and rarely more than 4 inches. Schools. Virginia and Pennsylvania have pass- ed laws to provide for the instruction of the poor children, but with little efl'ect. Ohio has appro- priated nearly 7 millions of acres of land, valued at above a million of dollars, for the support of schools, about half which has been sold, and fur- nished a fund of ^400,000, which is increasing. Last year, $60,000 was also raised by taxation. Many schools are in existence. Cincinnati has well supplied itself with valuable schools. Indi- ana, although furnished with school lands, has made no good use of them. Though Kentucky has done nothing for schools by law, one third of the children are instructed ; and measures are taking by individuals for the further promotion of common education. In Tennessee almost nothing has been done. Illinois has a fund of $40,000, which has not yet been applied to the support of PITTSBURGH. 395 • 1 rs were :tla, St. 10 upper [list, and bcr, De- , cloudy, lich falls c(l to fall St rainy 11 this re- aper than le waters t Cincin- k1 rarely ave pass- ihe poor s appro- d, valued iipport of , and fur- icreasing. taxation, inati has Is. Indi- mds, has Kentucky e third of 5ures are motion of t nothing $40,000, upport of schools; and Missouri and Mississippi are in a similar condition. Louisiana appropriates ncaily ,^\0O,(iOO annnally, out of licr fund, professedly for tiie instruction of tlic poor, but with very little benefit. Alabama, Michigan, Arkansas and Flor- ida, are all without any school system, though all possess resources in public lands reserved for the support of schools. The [)opulation of the West is about 4^ millions. Pittsburgh^ Penn., stands at the junction of the Monongahela and Alleghany rivers, (over which are bridges,) and is the principal manufacturing place of the West. The soil abounding in coal, and much machinery being moved by steam, a cloud of smoke is constantly rising from this city. The union of the streams forms the Ohio, and Pittsburgh in some degree rt'sembles New-York, in occu[)ying a point. Most of the ground is level, but a part of it rising ; the streets are regular, and there are several adjacent villages. Pittsburgh is 323 miles N. W. of Washington, 201 W. of Har- risburgh, 297 W. by N. Philadelphia. Population in 1830, 12,568, in the city alone ; and in 1834, with the suburbs, it probably contained 30,000. The city is supplied with water from the Allegha- ny, by a steam engine of 80 horse power, which raises it 116 feet, and can furnish a million and a half of gallons daily. There are 2 glass houses, 4 large cotton factories, 6 rolling mills and a nail factory, several breweries, 1 1 iron foundries, &c. making 270 manufactories in all, producing arti- cles worth about 3 millions. There are also 13 churches, the Western University of Pennsylva- nia, a museum, high school, a branch of the United States Bank, city bank, and state prison. ';ll I I 390 C'INCINNATl. Tho country around rillsliurirh i^ rich and pic- lnrcs(|iir. Tiic liit^licst hills arc al)oiit liiO iiivAj and all tiic coal njinrs arc on a level a little more than IK)0 (cet ab ; e the; lower part of the cily. Fuel is excell(Mit, ai cxtreniel)' cheap. The P K, JefUrson, (>« S. W. by W. Vandalia, is on the west baidv of Mississi[)pi liiver, and, like Cincinnati, on two lt'V( Is. The principal street is about 1 mih; lonn. 'I'bis is a place oi' much busi- ness, numerous st(;jiml)oats plying to N. Orleans, interrupted only by ice. It contains a branch of the IJ. S. 15ank, several churches, schools, and an Bcadc^my. This is one of tin; most important x.f the W. cities, and contained in 1830, 0,694 inliab- itants. New Orleans, the Mv( city of the West and South, is 96G miles fronj Washington, in a Ptrai'iht line, and 1,189 by j)ost route. It stands on the E. side of the Mississippi, 105 from its mouth, and 322 below Natchez, by the river. It occupies the sloping river's bank, and has a swamp in the rear, while a levee, or embankment, prevents it from being overflown by the Mississippi in time of floods. The lower streets are below the level of the river at lowest water, while it is often swell- ed to a height above the highest streets. The city proper has its streets crossing at right angles, and is about 2,000 by 4,000 feet in extent. There are several suburbs above and below it, and one behind, which are considered as forming a part of the city. It contains a branch of the U. S. Bank, and three other banks, a court house, Ursuline Convent, market, custom house, town house, 2 or 33* W!' f- i 'H 308 NATCHEZ. 3 Protestant churche?, a catliodral, 2 theatres, ff /f\ ; • c •A >^^ "'^/(- V. i^'ihiinujti-r ''"iffftt ^^i^ ; TRAVELLER'S DIRECTORY. To facilitate the Traveller iu his progress, a selection has been made of some oi the most frequented and interesting" routes in the northern and middle states, and along- thcseacoastuf the southern states, g-iving the •^.uncs of the cities, towns, and villa- ges, with the distances in m\Ie;«, in pursuing a direct course as usually travelled, either by lard or water. This will be found extremely convenient by the travolkr for constant reference, on any of thcg'reat routes he. ein mentioned. ROUTE of the g-reat Eastern Mail Stage from Washington to Baltimore, Philadelphia, New-Vork, and along- the seaport towns of the Eastern States, to the Bay of f uiidy — copied from the Traveller's Directory, published by Goodrich. n Washingtos to Baltimore, Philadelphia, Trenton, New-York, New-Haven, New-London, Newport, Providence, R. I., Bos- ton, d^c. A STAGE ROAD. Bladensburg-, 6 The east branch of the Patuxcnt runs 13 miles N. W. and falls into Patuxent River 9 miles S. E. from this place. Vansville Patuxent River, West Branch do. East do. M 'Coy's Patapsco River rises 23 miles N. by W., and fulls peak Bay 14 miles E. by S. from this place. Elkridge, Patapsco River Guinn's Falls Guinn's Flails rises 12 miles N. W., and falls into Patapsco River 4 miles S. E. from this place. BALTIMORE Herring- Run Bird's Run 8 miles 3 4 4 into Chesa- 4 5 3 4 8 S 400 BALTIMOBE TO PHILADELPHIA. Great Gunpowder Falls 3 Little Gunpowder Falls 2 Little (t. p. Fall rises 13 miles N. W., and falls into G. Falla 1 niilc below. Winter's Run 4 Winter's Run rises 12 miles N. W., and falls into Chesapeak Bay, thr.oujrh Bush lliver, 7 miles S. E. from tliis place. Abingdon 3 Hartlord or Bush 1 Havre de (j'raco 11 Cross Susquchannah River 1 Susquehannah River is the greatest stream on this side of the inoiuitaitjs. It is composed of two branches uniting at Northumberland, 100 miles W. N. W. from this place. The Fast branch rises in N. ^'ork state, 170 miles N. K. from North- umberbmd ; and the \V. branch rises W. by S. 100 miles. Principio Creek 2 Charles own 3 JNVirth P'ast River 2 Noril) Fast River rises in Pennsylvania, 12 miles N. by W., and falls into Chesapeak Bay 6 miles S. by W. from this [lace. Cross Little Flk River to Elkton 8 Big- Flk Creek 1 Big Flk Creek rises in Pennsylvania, 18 miles N. by W^, and falls into Chesapeak Bay 13 miles S. W. from this place. Delaware Slate Line 2 Christiana Creek 3 Christiana Creek rises 9 miles N. W. from this place, and unites with Brandywine Creek below Wilmington. Christiana 5 W^bite Clay Creek 4 White Clay Creek rises 14 miles N. W., and falls into Chris- tiana Creek a little below. Newport 1 Wilviinglon 4 Brandywine Creek 1 Brandywine Creek rises 35 miles N. W., and unites with Christiana Creek, a mile lielow. Tiie united streams fall into the Delaware Bay a mile below the junction. Naaman's Creek 8 Marcus Hook 2 Cross r'he.-,ter Creek to Chester 3 Chester Creek rises 17 miles N. W. Ridley Creek 1 Ridley Creek rises 17 miles N. W. Crum Creek 1 Crum Creek rises 15 miles N. W., and falls into Delaware River 1 mile S. E. from this place. PHILADELPHIA TO NEW-YORK. 401 3 2 J. Falls 4 Dsapeak 3 1 11 1 I side of itinp" at c. The 1 North- es. 2 3 2 by W., is place. 8 1 W., and • 2 3 ice, and 4 ,0 Chris- 1 4 1 itcs with fall into 8 2 3 1 elaware I Darby on Darby Creek, 6 Darby Crock ri.ses 14 miles N. W., and unites with Cobb's creek, a inilo bel(»\v. The united streams lall into the Dela- ware 3 miles S, from this place. Col)b's Creek, 1 Cobb's Creek rises 7 miles N. W. Cross Schuylkill River, 8: iles W. N. W.. and falls into Del- SchuylkiU River rises ao miles aware, 5 miles S. by W. from this place. PHILADELPHIA 1 Cross Franklord Creek to Fraiikford 6 Holmesburg- 5 Frankford creek rises 10 miles W. N. W., and falls into Dela- ware river 2 miles E. by S. from this place. Gross Pennepack Creek Pennepack Creek rises 13 miles W. N. W., and falls into Del- aware river, I mile below this place. Poquasin Creek 2 Poquasin Creek rises 7 miles N. N. W., and falls into Dela- ware river I mUe below. Neshaminy iJreek 4 Neshaminy Creek rises 14 miles N. W. and falls into Dela- ware river, 3 miles S. by W. from this place. Bristol 4 Tully Town 5 JVlorrisvillc . 5 Cross Delaware river to Trenton 1 Delaware river rises in the state of New- York, 150 miles N. f -om this place. Lawrenccville 6 Princdun 4 King-ston, on Millstone river 2 New- Brunswick. (Cross Rariton River.) 14 Raritan River rises 35 miles N. W., and falls mto Raritan bay, 9 miles E. by N. from this place. Kahway on Rahway River 12 Elizabeihtown 5 Newark 6 Cross Passaic river Passaic river rises in the state of New- York, 25 miles N. N. W. from this place. Hackcnsat k river 4 Haekensack River rises 30 miles N. from this place. Jersey City 5 Cross Hu(i-=<.n River to NEW-YOKK 1 Hudson's River rises 25U miles N. from this place. Harlaim. (Cross Harluim creek.) 8 ! i 1 i i 402 KEW-YORK TO BOSTON. 1 1 Harlaem Creek extends between Hudson and East Rivers, forming- Manhattan island. It connects with Hudson's river 13 miles above New-York. West Fciinis. (Cross Uronx Creek.) " 4 New Roc hoi le 7 Rye. (C'ro,9s i?2/ra7/i ijfmr and enter Connecticut.) 8 Greenwich 5 Stamford 6 Norwalk river and Norwalk 9 Sag-atnck river and Sagatuck 3 Fairfield 6 Bridg^eport 4 Stratford. (Cross Housatonic River.) 4 Honsatonic river rises in New-York and Massachusetts, 88 miles N. N. W. from this place. Milford 4 NRW HAVEN 10 Brandford 7 Guildford 9 Hammiuiasset river 6 KiUitigworth 3 Saybro'ik 9 ConnecficLit river 2 Conm ( ticut River rises 270 miles N. by E. from this place, near Canada, and New Hampshire line Cross to Lyme 2 Riverhead 9 NEW LONDON 7 Cross Thames river to Groton 1 Thames River rises near Worcester, Massachusetts, N. by E. 65 miles. Mystick river 8 Stonington 6 Pawcatuck River and Rhode Island State line 2 Pawcatuck River rises 26 miles N. Westerly 3 Charleston 12 Towerhill, South Kinp-sfon, 12 Cross Narragansett Bay to Canonicut Island 2 Narraganset Bay is a beautiful inlet, extending to Provi- dence, S.'S miles north. It is studded with islands. Cross the Island 1 Newport 3 Bristol Ferry 11 Cross (he Ferry 1 Bristol % Warren 4 Atlc BOSTON TO PORTLAND. 403 Rivers, I's river 4 7 8 5 5 9 3 6 4 4 setts, 88 4 10 7 9 6 3 9 2 his place, 2 9 7 1 ;, N. by E. 8 6 2 3 12 12 2 to Provi- 1 3 11 I a 4 1 4 8 7 2 11 8 2 1 1 4 2 1 6 2 4 3 4 Pawtucket River Pavvtucket river rises near Worcester, 45 miles N. W. Providence Pawtucket river, falls, and manufactories Attleboroug'h, Mass. Foxborougii Walpole Dedhcim. (Cross Ncponset River.) Roxbury BOSTON Cross Charles River to Charlcslown Cross Mystic River to Chclsra Mystic river rises 12 miles N. W. Chelsea Creek Sawgus river Sawg-us river rises 10 miles N. W. Lynn (Marblehead 6) Salem Cross Beverly Harbor to Beverly Wen ham (to Gloucester C. Ann 12) Hamilton Ipswich on Ipswich River ipswich river rises S. W. 12 miles, and falls into Ipswich Bay 3 miles N. E. from this place. Rowley 4 Newburyport 7 Cross Merrimac river to Salisbury . 3 Merrimac river is a large stream rising in New Hampshire N. W. 100 miles N. W. Chelmeslord to Charlestown is the Middlesex Canal. New Hampshire State line Hampton Greenland Portsmouth Cross Pisquataqua R. and enter the State of Maine Kittery 4 Pi: quataqua river rises 40 miles N. by W., and falls into the Atlantic Ocean 3 miles S. E. York 5 Wells 13 Kennebunk, on Kcnnebunk river Q Kennebunk river rises 10 miles N. W. Saco, on Saco river 10 Saco river rises among the White Mountains in New Hamp- shire, about 67 miles N. W. from this place. Scarborough 6 hi 3 6 8 5 404 PORTLAND TO CASTINE. n /' Portland 10 Cross l*re3iinipRrut river 6 Nnilli Varmotiili 6 J^Kr^iinipricut liver rises 50 miles N. VV, Freepoi't 6 Brunswick 9 Androdcog'gin river ri?es 100 miles N. N. W., and falls into Kennebcck river 8 miles J\. E. BaLli 7 Kenncberk River 3 Kcnnebeck river rises 130 miles N., and falls into the Atlan- tic Ocean 14 miles south. Woolwich 3 Cross 7Vo Bays. V^ iacaflset 9 A'no 6 S A opscut river 3 Shev'^' out river rises 33 miles N. N. E., and falls into the At- lantic Cvoaii 20 miles S. by W. Newcastle 3 Damariscotta River 3 Damariscotta River is principally a larg-c bay, extending" N. by K. 10 miles, and l.dling* into the Atlantic Ocean lb miles S. by W. from this place. Waldoboroug^h 9 Cross St. Georg-e's River to Warren 8 Thomastown 5 Camden 11 Lincolnville 7 JNorthport B Belfast 6 Prospect 6 Penobscot River 3 Penobscot River rises 140 miles VV. N. W., and falls into the Atlantic Ocean through Penobscot Bay, 40 miles S. by W. Buckstown 9 Penobscot 13 CasHne - 4 Bluehill 10 Surry g Ellsworth 6 Trenton (J Cross Union River head of Frenchman's bay to Sul- livan 9 Union River rises 40 miles N. by E., and falls into the Atlan- tic Ocean, 30 miles south NEW-YORK TO BOaTON. 405 6 6 6 9 ills into 7 3 3 Atlan- 9 5 3 the At- 3 3 ding- N. niles S. 9 8 5 U 7 5 6 6 3 into the W. 9 13 4 10 8 6 6 9 le Atlan- 'Paunlon Goldsboroug'h 5 S'tcubcn 9 Cross Narrng'uag'us River to llarring-ton 8 Narraguag-us River rises 32 inilea N. N. W., and falls into the Atlantic Ocean 10 miles S. S. E. Columbia 12 Cross Pleasant R. Hay, several branches to Jone.-boro' 9 Pleasant River rises 20 niiies N. W., and the bay c^ necta with the Atlantic Ocean 10 miles south. Cross Chandler's River Machias River, west branch 7 Machias River rises 40 miles N. VV. from this place. Machias, on Machias Bay East falls of Machias (Oranp-e T. 10) (LubccU 8) Dennevsvillc Kastport Ferry East})ort Kastport Ferry to Robbinstows Robbinstown is situated cm P'^ssat^.^qiioddy, or St. Croix ri- ver, which is the boundary bet ». ten the U. S. and the British Province of New Brunswick. It rises GO miles N. W. by N. from Robbinstown. 2 6 23 14 4 13 New-York to New-Haven^ 'iw-London, Norwich^ Newport^ Providence^ and Boston, by Steamboat and Stage. By Steamboat from Fulton-st., U. S. Navy-yard, and 74's on right. 1 Alms-house and Penitentiary, on left 1 Mouth of Harlem River 4 Harlem River ext(>nds from Hell Gate to the Hudson, and in- sulates the City of New- York from the main land. There are 3 bridg-cs over it, and tide mills near the Hudson. Hell Gate is a remarkable passage, where the water, at cer- tain times of the tide, is in great commotion. Frog's Point, enter Long I. Sound 9 Sand's Point, and L. House 6 Eaton's Neck r. Lloyd's Neck r. .' IB Norwalk Island's 1. 10 Shipan, seat of the late M. Rogers on 1. Black Rock 1. 9 Stratford Point 1. 6 New Haven L. House 13 (up to long wharf, 4 miles) ! il I l l *' 406 KEW-TOBK TO QUCDEC. t! Faulkner's If^lands 14 fe'aybrook L. Hdiisf, mouth of Connecticut River 16 (Up tlic river to Hartf«>rci 47 niilcy, a t>tcain-boat route. 1 hid is a very interesting* route, and is g^encraily travelled in Bumnier since the introduction of fctcam-boats.) Gull Island L. House Jl Fisher's Island, west end 4 Stoningrton lies 4 miles N. of Fisher's I., and is famous for its noble dt fence during- an attack in the late war. Firfber's Isliind. east end 6 Watch Hill L. House, N. N. point of iilock I. 16 Point Judith 9 Soutli King-sionon left 6 Entrance of Newport Harbour Brenton's Point and Forts NEWPORT Prudence Island, south end To Bristol, 6 miles on r. Canonicut Pomt Pawtucket River PROVIDE>fCE jBy Land. BOSTON, as in pa^e 403 4 2 6 9 6 6 42 \P New- York, and by Hudson River to Albany, and by Land and Water to Montreal and Quebec. NEW-YORK This is a very interesting" route, by which a traveller may pass from Washinofton to Quebec in from 7 to 8 days, distance 759 miles, with onl}^ 178 of land carriage. I'he several rivers, and Lake Champlain, are particularly interesting. Steam-boat dock, Liberty-street, to St. John's church, E. side of Hudson R. State Prison wharf E. Fort Gansevoort E. Hoboken, N. J. West. (Seat of Col. Stevens.) Weehawk, on W., begin Palisado rocks Duelling ground, W., foot of Palisados Village of Bloomingdale E. 3 Asylum for the Insane, E. 2ik Manhattan villc, E. 5 Ruins of Fort Lee on W. summit of Palisados, 300 feet high, U Ruins of Fort Washington, E. 230 feet high | On it was a battle during the revolutionary war— 2000 rnen killed and taken prisoners. fe< on lot val lar va.« KEW-TORK TO QUEBBO 407 14 16 te. tvcllcd ia 11 4 imous for 15 9 6 4 2 6 9 6 6 42 Land and vellcr may distance cral rivers, 8. 3 I )0 feet U I —2000 rnen U 3 3i 1 1 Spuyton Dnyvil Creek, E. 2 Thifi Creek < onnrcts the Hudson and East Rivers, under tho name of Hiula'in River. It has 3 bridg-c^ — and quarries of marble are on its bunk 1 mile e. from the Huddon. Ruins of Fort Independence, E. on hill N.of creek k Philipstown or Yonkors, on Sawmill Creek 4 Closter Landing*, W. P. Rhinclandcr's seat, E. summit of hill Division line of N. York and New Jersey, on W. Termination of Palisadoa Dobb's Ferry Entrance to Tappan Zco Slote Landing*, VV. Tarrytown, E, Sleepy Hollow, E. Nyack, VV. Quai ries of red sand stone. Sparta, E. — quarries of marble 3 A Pond, source of Hackensack, on the mountain, W. — 150 feet above tide. Sing' Sinar, or Mount Pleasant, E. I Teller's Point, E. 1 Division of Tappan and Havcrstraw Bays. CrotonR. enters on E. — its sources are in Putnam Co. and it ia about 40 miles long. A Canal is contemplated from Sharon, Con., along" the valley of the Housatonic and Croton rivers to New- York. Vrediker mountain, W. 670 feet high Entrance of Havcrstraw Bay, and distant view of the High- lands. Haverstraw or Warren, VV. Stony Point (fort in ruins) 4 Verplanck's Point and seat I Entrance of the Highlands Gibraltar, or Caldwell's, VV. 1 Peekskill, E. Dunderberg* mountain, 900 feet hig*h There are fine views from the summit of this mountain to a vast distance. Entrance to the Race, between noble mountains on each side Anthony's Nose, E. 1000 feet high Great bare mountain, VV. 1300 leet high Ruins of Forts Clinton and Montgomery Polaper's Creek, on VV. Buttermilk Falls, Lydig's mills, VV. Sugar Loaf mountain, E. 850 feet high U. S. Military Academy, West Point 1 2 5i h\ 408 NEW-YORK TO aUEDrc. M Here arc cxtriisivr atone rdificrn, and alout 250 Cadets. Fort I'ntfiiini, 000 fcft Ihl'Ii, W. K<»9clii!-^k(»'s riKiiijinriit, VV. C(*i...Iitunoii I-liifi(l, K. West I'uini roundly, K. Coldspt inpr Villairo," E. 2 Crow'fl NvM inormtiiin, W. 1 100 fct t Idf^h Hidl Hill Mountain, K. HSU fcvi Iml-Ii Break Neck mountain, K. IIHO leet Iii.t'i IJutter Hill mountain, W. 1520 Icct hiffli IJ Cornwall, W. Polopcll's Inland IJ New Windsor, VV. li Chamber's Creek, W. Fishkill Creek, K. ^ 1 On this Creek are extensive Cotton and Woollen Factories one mile from the Hudson. Ncwburg", W. 1 W. Deiming's seat, mouth of Fiahkill creek Fishkill, E.— Do Wiiit's seat Low Point 3 Donscomma Point 2 Hamburg-h, mouth of Wapping-cr's Creek, E. Valuable Mills and Factories. Marlborough, W. 2 Seat of the late George Clinton, E. Barnenfat 2 Much Lime is made along the river. Milton, half way between New- York and Albany. Poughkcepsic Landing, E. 3 The village is distant one mile fronn the river. New Paltz, W. and Ferry Seat of J. Roosevelt, E. Crom Elbow, VV. 3^ First view of Catskill mountains Hyde Park, E. (Scat of Dr. Hosack.) 2 Pelham 3 Seat of Gen. Lewis, E. 1} Esopus meadows, VV. Seat of J. Thomson, Esq., E. 3 Mouth of Walkill River Esopus Landing, VV. _ IJ Canal to Delaware river leads up this valley. Kingston Village, VV., 4 miles from river Rhinebeck Landing, E. 1 The village is 2 miles from river. Seat of Gen. Armstrong, E. 6 nUD805f TO ALBAMY. 409 s. H n 1 actorica 1 3 2 2 2 2 3 li 3 n 1 6 Scat of li. Brown, c.iq. E. Rcdliook lower f ..iiHJiti'.--, R. i Seat (•! MrH, Mont<,'utnery, E. Mngdulcn Islands 1| Seat of J. Living-aton, E. Glnug-ow, W. I P. H. Liviii^Hton, E. Rodlj(M)k upper Landing", E, 1| Sauucrtics, | Seats of It. L. Livinpston, and E. P. Living-dton I Bristol, flats and shoals, W. East Camp 4| Fine view of the Catskill mountain and tavern on the top. Ancram Creek, K. 2i Old Livincfsion manor-house Seat of J. Livitiprston— Oak Hill, E. Catskill Landing-, W. 2 Villag-c half a mile Lehind the hill — 8 uules to foot of moun- tain. Mount Merino 6 Prospect Hill— S. Plumb, E. Flat between Athens and Hudson cut by a ditch for a ferry HUDSON, E. I Athens, W. Paddock's Point, W. 4 Abrani's Creek, E. « ^ Factories and Mills. Seat of R. S. Living-ston : Coxsackie, VV. SI Kitidcrhook Landino-, E. It The Villag-e is 5 miles from river. JVew Baltimore, W. 4J Here the navig-ation beg-ins to be very shoal and intricate to Troy. Coeymans, VV. Schodac, E. Castleton, E. Hosre Berg-, E. 2' Overslaug-h shoal and dam Norman's Kill Mills 3 ALBANY* 2 * Most travellers to the north will piefer to take the railroad line, via the Springs, from the Railroad Office, State st-, Albany, daily at 9 A. M. Leaves Sarato a, J past 3 A iM. ; and Schenectady, ^^ before II V..M.; and th« Afternoon line from Albany, J^ past "2 P. M. ; Saratoga Springs, i be- fore 5 P. M. ; and from Schenectady, at i past 4 P: U. 410 NEW-YOllK TO QUEBEC. 'I Tlio Canal IJasin, upponite tlie northern part of the City, \3 thrce-iourth!? of a mile long-, and from 50 to 100 yards wide. Tlie depth of water is 12 fiet, and here is the first lock on the Canal. From this to Uullalo, by the Canal, is 300 miles Near the Basin-lock is the State Arsenal and the seat of Stephen Van liensselaer, the Fatroon, and nearer still is that oi his son. Mills and Factories on the Creek. Bath Villag-e, E. 1 The Stag-e-road leads along- the Canal and river to Troy. Wynant's Kill, E. 3 On thisi?tream are valuable mills and factories. Washington — Roud to Shaker's Village P(>eaten A ill, K. 3 Flour mills, &c. U. S. Arsenal — Gibbonsville An extensive government depot of arms and ammuniiion for the northcrti frontier. TROY, E. 1 A b« autifid and flourishini^ city, with an active population and commerce. Travellers can cross the ferry here, visit Troy and Lansing-- bnrpfh, ind oross tlio bridge to VVaterford ; or cotitinu*' (>n the \V. sid i and see the locks, junction of I-^rie and Champlain ca- nals, Ci>hof;'s Falls on the Mohawk, 6cc. Hank's I'cll l'\jundry West Troy Sule cut into the Hudson river here, to cress from the Canal to Troy. Here are 3 locks. On the K. side of the Island is the darn and great sloop lock ; and the Mohawk river here unites with the Hudson by a number of channels. The jmictionof the Erie and Champlain canals li Ten locks of the Eric canal — above them it turns to the west, and in ? miles crosses the Mohawk river to N. side on f>n aque- duct, and re-crosses to the south side again, 4 miles east of Schenectady. The whole of this njute is eminently curious and interesting, and is described in this work— see index. Cohoe's Bridge over the Mohawk 1 Fine view of the Falls from the bridge. The Champlain canal is conducted over the river, a quarter of a mile east of the bridge, by means of a dam which backs the water. The boats are poled over this passage in a hazardous manner. Wattrford 1 On the north side of the river, near the village, is a side-cut from the Northern canal into the Hudson river, by means of 3 locks. Borough or Mechanic ville 8 Anthony's Kill NEW-YORK TO QUEBEC. 411 5 City, 19 tcl3 wido. ck on the C3 Near phen Van f his son. 1 ) Troy. munition for 1 population (1 I^ansin^- tjur «'n the Linplain ca- n the Canal sland is the here unites U to the west, Ion nn aque- [liles east of l\tly curious lindex. I Champlain I mile east of ater. The tanner. 1 a side-cut means of 3 8 Rises in the long- pond in the town of Ballston, and is 15 or 20 miles long-. A roud here branches ofl' W. to Ballston (12 milcri) and Saratoga Springs (15 miles.) Stillwa(cr 3J Here are mills and falls in the Hudson. Bemiss' Heights, W. 2j| Battle, Oct. 1777. Freennan's Farm 2 Battle, Sept. 1777. Swords' (now Smith's tavern) 1 Wlicre Gen. Fraser died in 1777. Sarato<>"a 4 Fish creek di.scharfres the waters of Saratog-a Lake and of the crcek.s that run through tlie village of Ballston and Saratoga Springs; its course is Vv. A roiid to those celebrated places leads olV west to Saratoga 11 miles, to Ballston 18 miles. East of the road, in Saratoga, is the field where Burgoyne surrendered to the American army, under Gen. Gates, 17th Oct. 1 777. The site is now parUy occupied by the Basin for the canal. On Fish creek are mills, &c. Dam and Locks Northumhcrlatid 5 Saratoga Falls of Hudson River. Fort Miller Brido-e Do. canal and Falls of 18 feet, with 2 locks 3 Fort Edward 8 Great dam over the Hudson, 30 feet high and 91)0 feet long, that fills the summit level of this canal, A passage-boat runs on this canal, from this to Whitehall, 23 miles, connected with stages frotn Albany, and Steam-boats on Lake Champlain. Feeder from Hudson Kiver | Do. do. above Glenn's F"'all3 2 Here the canal leaves the stage- road and is on the east in the swamps. Sandy Hill Village Baker's Falls in Hud.aon River here are very fine, and should be visited ; as also, Glenn's Falls, 4 miles west. Lake George is 1 1 miles N. Kingsbury Village 5 Fort Anne 5 Narrows 6 Whitehall 5 Here the canal terminates — 3 locks fall 26 feet. This village was famous in the American revolution; then it was Skenesborough. Here burgoyne, in 1777, destroyed the American flotilla, the stores, baggage, &c. — Tiie Lake is for many miles a narrow, muddy, sluggish river, with high and I I i M 412 IffiW-TOKlC TO QUEBEC. rocky ridges on each side ; at the Hall is low marshy land, throug-h which the river winds Us way. On the E. is Poultney River that rises in Vermont ; on the west is south Bay. /?y Steamboat. Ticonderopfa 23 Ruins of Fort — very famous in the old French war of 1755, and in the Revolutionary war — now bclong"3 to W. F. Pell, ECsn. of New-York. On the E. is Mount Independence. On the VV. Mount Defiance ; on the summit of this mount the British planted cannon, &c. — Outlet of Lake George on W. Five- mile Point, Shoreham, Vermont. 5 Crown Point, W. 9 Great ruins of Fort to be seen. Ferry over to Vermont North West Bay 9 Basin Harbor, Vermont, E. 3 Mouth of Narrows 2 Otter Creek 2 This creek rises 60 miles S. — on it is Vergennes, a place of some note. Essex, W. 5 Charlotte, E. The Brothers (islands) 10 Burlin^-ton^ Vt. E. 5 Pass Schuyler's Island, W. Onion River, E, Rises 50 miles S. E. Colchester Point 7 River au Sable and Adgate's Falls, W. This rises 40 or 50 miles S. W. in the mountains. Very val- uable iron -works are on its borders. Town of Peru South Hero 2 This Island divides the Lake equally N. and S. for 12 milea. Several smaller islands occur, Cumberland Bay, VV. 7 The scene of McDonough's victory, 10 Sept. 1814. Plattsburgh, on the river Saranac I This river rises in the wild and mountainous region, 50 niiica S. W. A canal is contemplated from Plattsburgh to Ogdensburg, on the River St. Lawrence. The route is practicable and has been surveyed. Cumberland Head 3 Ram's Head, W. Isle la Motte, E. 4 Sister Islands and channel, dividing the islands of N. andS. U NEW-YORK TO QUEBSC- 413 luUney >3 If 1755, :11, Esq. theW. British 5 9 9 3 2 2 place of 10 6 7 'ery val- 2 |2 miles. 1 50 miles tburg, on Ihas been 4 \. andS. Hero, and channel to St. Allians and SwitntoHj in Vermont, E. where are marble quarries. Missisque Bay lies N. and is part in Canada. Chazy 7 The river of that r»ame rises 20 miles W. Chainplain Villacre Six miles N. W. orj Big- Chazy river Lat. 45 deg-. N. — boundary line of New- York and Ca- nada Q Rouse's Point and Fort, W. Windmill Point, E. Oddletown, 2 miles W. Ash Island— Fort 2 l.a Colle Creek, W. Jslc aux N«nx — Fort 7 South River on E. Si. Johns, or Dorchester 9 Here is the River Sorel or Richlien, the outlet of Lake Cham- plain, which enters the St. Lawrence at the head of Lake St. Peter, at Fort William Henry, 60 miles from Rouse's Point. To Chambly Castle, 10 miles N. By Stage. Half-way-house, on Montreal River 9 This River rises in an extensive swamp to the S. W. 20 miles, and enters the River Sorel at Chambly. La Prairie Villag-e, on the St. Lawrence 8 To Longueil, ^) miles north By Steam Ferry- Boat to MONTREAL 8 (on the St. Ijxwrcnce River.^ Rapids and Isle of St. Helena, S. — Longueil. St. Francis, N. or left side Commune Isles, S. 6 Boucherville, S. Point aux Trembles, N. A branch of the Ottawas or Grand R. on N. — bridge 7 Cape St. xMichael, E. St. Sulpice Sorel, or Fort William Henry 30 Mouth of the Sorel, or outlet of Lake Champlain, S. Entrance of Lake St. Peter, Yanrasca River and St. Francis, S. 10 These two streams rise near the Vermont line, and run 60 to 100 miles from S. E. to N. W. River Masquinotigre N., and Island S. 1'ermination of Lake St. Peter 18 Three Rivers^ half way from Montreal to Quebec MM 414 ALBAXY TO NIAGARA. II l! River St. Maurice, N. River Bccancour, S. St. Anna 23 Tlieso fotreams coming from opposite ndleton Villace 2 I'he canal here rnters the 'I'onnewanta creek, and is followed for II miles to the dam near h^ mouth 11 Dam and Lock to vnU'r the Niagara Kiver. Waekllock Harbor — Lock 8 Village of Hlack Kock 1 On th River. B While rivcrrirfcs in the (it com Mountains, 20 miles W. Norwich 4 Dartmouth t'oileg-e K. in (h(.' Town of Hanover, New Hainpshin,'. Lyme K. — Sawyer'.'^ and Corey'.-? Motintiiins. Thetford S Faiilco 6 Oxford — Piennoiit — Haverhill. Ciuarry of soap.-tone on I-. Haverfiili corner M Crosf4 Wait'.s Kiver. (Rradfonl) Newbury, ((/rfat Ox How IC.) Extensive and '.«';uitiful rich meadows. Cross Wei r.s River. (Rye-jnto) 8 Tol-jMilc FalU lUni. To Luncnstcr 2J m. Cross Conn. R. to I'atli, on the Ammonoosuck 7 Aminonoo:>nclc river ou V.. ri 's in die White Mountains, 30 niilcaj N. K., and is u clear rapiti stream. Along" (he Annnoncjo.suck to Ethan Crawford's, in tlie 'I'own of Hrentford, 4J m. N. W. of I he Notch 20 Here a iruidc must be obtained, if you wish to ascend the mountain.^. The most eleva.ted peak of the White Mountains is Mount VVahiiifrton, about 7,000 feet, a lit^_ ^ ^ # "^ sgrn^mmgrn 422 NEW-YORK TO ST. AUGUSTINE. i Bartlett Conway Fryeburg" Hirarn Stand isli Gorhann Portland n 10 10 10 22 7 10 Southern Rovte from New-York, to Philadelphia, Baltimore, Norfolk, Charleston, Savannah, and St. Augustine by Steam- Boats, Rail Roads, Canals, and Stages. Amlioy, by Steamboat, (2 hours) 25 miles Rail Koad by Hnbertsville, Hig-htstown, Spotswood, and Crntreville, N. Jersey, to Bordonton, on Dela- ware river, time 2^ hours 36 Bordenton to Philadelphia, by Steamboat, 2^ hours 35 (expense N. York to Pliiladelphia, S3.) Philadelphia to Fort Mifflin, 8; Lazaretto, 5; Ches- ter, 5; Marcus Hook, 4 ; Christiana Creek, 8 ; New- castle, 5. (2 hours.) 35 Frenchtown, by the Rail Road (in 1 hour) 16 Turkey Point, by Steamboat 13 Baltimore, (4^ hours,) $4 from Philadelphia 51 (or if by the Chesapeake and Delaware canal from Newcastle to Delaware City, is 10 m. along- the marshes to St. George's, 4. Summitbridg-e, 6; Chesapeake creek, 4 ; mouth of Beek creek, 3; Turkey Point, 8; Grove Point, 6; Pool's Island, 16; Mil- ler's Island, 8 ; North Point, 8 ; Sparrows Point, 4 ; Foit Mc Henry, 6 ; Baltimore, 3.) 197 miles to Norfolk, (by Steamboat,) on the Chesapeake B. (in 13 to 15 hours.) — expense $8. NorthPoint 13 Bodkin Point A. Stony Point 4 Sandy Point 6 Thomas P^int 10 3 Sisters 6 Herring" Bay 7 Sharp's Island 9 Cove Point 20 Drum Point, mouth of Patuxent River 6 Cedar Point 4 Point Lookout, mouth of the Potomac 17 Smith's Point 11 Windmill Poin*, mouth of the Rappahannock river 21 Gwynn's Island 7 Point-no-point 6 S KORFOLK TO RALEIGtt. 423 n 10 10 10 22 7 10 altimore, ty Steam- 25 miles 1, a- 36 3 35 w- 35 16 13 51 ewcastle to ^orgre's, 4. Boek creek, d, 16; Mil- Fort Mc sapeake 13 4 4 6 10 6 ^f I 9 20 6 4 17 11 iver 21 7 6 B. New Point Comfort Black river point Old Point Comfort Fort Calhoun Craney Island Norfolk 9 12 10 1 8 6 [Norfolk /o Raleigh^ N. C. bi/ Varboroxtgh. Suffolk N. Carolina State Line 11 Constant's 10 MiichcU's 6 Parker's 5 Edenton 17 Cross Albcrm;irle Sonnd to Mackee's Ferry 10 Albcrmarle i^ound receives the waters of Chowan and Roan- oke rivers, a few miles above, and extends to the E. 60 miles from this ferry. Plyrnoutli 14 Jameston 12 Williamston 11 Cross Tar River to Tarborough 34 Little River 48 Nouse River 11 Raleigh 6 Norfolk to PaycttcvillCy by the Canal ^ ly Albermarle Sound. Enter Dismal Swamp 8 The road runs along" the bank of the canal, throujsrh Dismal Swamp to Pasquotank river. N. Carolina State Line Pasquotank River Elizabeth City By Steamboat^ Wade's Point, Albermarle Sound Mouth of Roanoke River Plymouth By Land. 13 10 12 17 45 8 Jameston Williamston Tarborough Stauntonsburw" Cross Little llivcr Neusc River Black River Cape Fear River Fayetteville 13 10 32 28 16 10 21 18 2 424 NORFOLK TO FATETTEVILLE. fr.] Norfolk to Payetteville, by JSewhern. Plymouth, At Wastiiiig-ton a road takes off to Hyde Church, on Pamli- co Sound, distant 47 miles E. by S. — Cape Hatteras is distant from thence 55 miles S. E. Hoof Inn 5 Jackson's Inn 11 Shepard 14 Washivgion 5 Cross Piimlico River 1 Pamlico River is the continuation of Tar River. It falls into Pamlico Sound 45 miles S. E. from this place. Grist 5 Kingr's Inn 9 Col. Bryan's 4 Neuse river 6 Neuse River falls into Pamlico Sound 35 miles E. from New- bern. Newbern 10 At Nevvbern a road takes off to Beauford, distant 45 miles S. E. — Cape Look-Out is situated 30 m. S. E. from Beauford. Trenton 20 Rhodes' 11 Cross N. E. branch of Cape Fear River to Hall's 7 N. E. branch of Cape Fear river rises 28 miles N. by W., and falls into Cape Fear River 40 miles S. by W. from this place. Six Runs 22 Big Cohary 10 South River 16 Cape Fear River 13 Cape Fear River falls into the Atlantic Ocean at Cape Fear, opposite to Smithville. Fayetteville 2 Norfolk to Charleston^ S. C, by the Coast. Rhode's, Cross N. E. branch of Cape Fear River to S Washington 24 Re-cross N. E. branch 21 Hermitage 3 Wilmington 6 Cross N" E. branch Cape Fear Main branch Cape Fear River 3 Brunswick 15 Smithville 12 Cape Fear Light-house is situated 6 miles S. E. from Smith- ville. The Frying-pan shoals extend about 18 miles S. E. from the Cape. CHARrKSTOIf TO SAVANffAH. 42(3 ,n Pamli- 8 diBtaiit 5 11 14 5 1 L falls into 6 9 4 6 from New- 10 45 miles S. iuford. 20 11 7 I by W., and his place. '12 10 16 13 Cape Fear, d. 24 21 3 6 3 15 12 from Smith- es S. E. from Varennes 26 On the Sands 13 Cross Great Pedee River to Georgetown 20 Santee River N. branch 14 Do. S. branch 2 Santee River 92 miles N. W. It falls into the Atlantic Ocean by two entrances, about 12 miles S. £. from this place. Tweeden Cottons 10 Wapetan Church 17 Greenwich 16 Cross Cooper's river to CHARLESTON 4 Cooper's River rises N. W. about 45 miles. Ashley river 6 Ashley river rises N. by W. about 32 miles from this place. Green's Tavern 8 Hick's Tavern 10 Cross Edisto river to Jacksonboro* 10 Edisto river rises 90 miles N. W. and falls into the Atlantic Ocean 20 miles S. E. from this place. Pompon P. Office 3 Thompson'a tavern 1 1 Cross Cambahee River to Saltketcher church 9 Cambahee liver rises 76 miles N W., and falls into St. Helena Sound, 18 m>les S. £. from this place. Pocotaligo 7 Cross Coosawhatchie river to Coosawhatchie 6 Coosawhatchie river rises 47 miles N. W. and falls into Coosaw river, 6 miles S. E. from this place. Fitch's, Echaa road 4 Beck's Ferry, on Savannah river 39 Savannah river ta..^ into the Ocean 16 miles S. S. E., and is naviga'yle for large vessels to Savannah. SAVANNAH Or by the New Road. (Fitch's, as above Wells St. Luke's Church Savannah river SAVANNAH) Little Ogechee river Ogechee river rises 135 miles N. W. and falls into Ozsab- aw Sound, 14 miles S. E. Great Ogechee river 4 25 15 A 18 1 10 !f itiMlM 426 KEW-yORK TO ST. AUGUSTINB. i 1.1 iHn ' Old Bryan c. h. 2 Med way ch. 13 Riceboro' 6 South Newport river 9 South Newport river rises 18 miles N. W. and falls into Supelo Sound, 1 1 miles E. S. E. from this place. Mc'Intosh c. h. 8 Darien 12 Altamaha river 16 Altamaha river is formed by the Oconee and Ocmulgee ri- ver?, 73 miles N. W. and falls into the Atlantic Ocean 20 m. S. E. from this place. Widow Harris's 6 Buftalo River 12 Buffalo river rises !2 miles N. W. and falls into Turtle R. 12 Tiiies S. E Little Santilla river JO Little Santilia river rises 8 miles N. W. and falls into Jy- kill Sound, 20 miles S. E. from this place. MizeU's 15 Cross Great Santilia river to Jefferson 5 Great Santilia river rises N. W. 35 miles, and falls into St. Andrew's Sound, 20 miles £. by N. St. Mary's St. Mary's river rises W. S. W. 40 miles. By IVattr to St. Augustine. Cumberland Sound, mouth of St. Mary's river Mouth of Nassau river Nassau river rises near St. Mary's. Mouth of St. John's river 9 St. John's river rises in Mayaco Lake, S. 250 miles. ST. AUGUSTINE 25 Talahasse, 20 miles N. of St. Marks, is the seat of govern- ment ot East Florida. Charleiton to Savannah by Steam Boat. Sullivans Island S. C. Coffin Land Lt. House " Stone River " N. Edisto River " St. Helena Sound ** Port Royal Entrance " Calitouge Sound *■ Tybee Light House Geo. Savannah 24 5 18 << 5 8 9 14 10 26 15 6 15 ^ 2 13 5 9 alls into 8 12 16 lulgee ri- xn 20 m. 5 12 rurtle R. 10 into Jy- 16 5 Is into St. 24 5 18 9 es. 25 of govern- 5 8 9 14 10 26 15 6 15 PENNSYLVANIA CANAL. Cleveland to Portsmouth, via Ohio Canal. Ackron New Portage Clinton Massilion Bethlehem Bolivar Zoar Dover New Philadelphia New Corners Town Coshocton Irville Newark Hebron Licking Summit Lancaster Canaan Columbus Side Cut Bloomfield Circleville Chillicothe Piketon Lucasville Portsmouth 427 Cincinnati to Dayton, via Miami Canal Keadmg Sharon Hamilton Middletown Franklin Miamisburgh Alexandersville Dayton Marietta Bainbridge Middletown High Spier Town Harrisburgh Pennsylvania Canal. (< 12 ft 4 it 5 it 11 n 11 n 6 it 8 << 3 ■■ \{ Ij \ Clir AWth Cl'ieslcr)^ H,..7.. // I ; I, < I wmm^^ V ' fr> 0«l Iban*.- ■r/s.viltn^ltu;, B.oh. //. .■?.■■ lUTiliiiriBWipi mtSSBT M'Tt/t o /•• ^ — I i-0 V.}i\uv n. ^t«-> . \%r-~^' •*.^ .'■■ *;^ **■ .'^ / ^r^ H.:-i..-i I t ■ I M I I'rom lJ.S.77/r,'i>/i J'f. V. : V > \ •*. "«w*: n f^« /y 'If "■ \ I