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Les diagrammes sulvants illustrent la mAthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 S 6 .1 •^^' ^'V h /-.ju«, _ >Cv. 3 ) „ : •f -■''^ 5 ^ /A-" JOURNAL i /iff 't OF A ;»;* :ii JO VOYAGE BETWEEN CHINA ■ AND THE ■ ' ■;». NORTH-WESTERN COAST OF AMERICA, MADE IN 1804. «.••'>! .-. r Sunday moming, the 8th of February, 1804, 1 left Canton, and arrived, in the evening, on board the Delia Byrd, a few leagues be- low Whampoa; we got immedi- ately under weigh, and arrived the next evening at Macao, where we- anchored in four fathoms. The next morning I sent the boat ashore with an ofliccr, to bring off an Otaheite girl, wile to my car- penter's mate, whom Ihad agreed to take on the voyage. Tlie next morning we again weighed, and launched out on a ntost. diilicult, and, as it finally proved, a most disastrous voyage In the first place, my sljip was so leaky that she required pumping every ten or fifteen minutes ; we had a stor- my coast to beat up against liie monsoon ; and then to grope our way through an unexplored ocean tothenorth-west' coast of our con- tinent. On the 7th of March, we had advanced as far as the south end of Foriuosa. This short pas- sage, which may be effected in three days with a favourable wind, vol, in. C^- Iff?' U' ^*^ W* ix- cost us an infinite deal of trouble ; we had a constant contrary gale, in which the ship suffered very considerable damages in her sails and figging. During this passage we were constantly near the coast of China^ and were always sur- rounded with numerous fleets of fishing vessels. These junks are about twenty-five tons burthen, of an uncouth conbtructio;;, but they sail remarkably well. Several of them beat us when we were under double reefed top-sails. They cruize by pairs, dragging between tliem a large bag seine, Avhich is occasionally hauled in to secure the fish. We ran very near some of tiiose fishermen, and I observ- ed large families of women and children on board. Men born and brought up in this way must make excellent seamen; and should China ever, in the course of events, become a maritime power, tlieir fisheries would be no con- temptible beginning towards a navy. The 7th of March we had, for ';• w^^ ■m:: '^ H ii'r 138 AMERICAN REGISTER. >./ the first time since our departure, iinc pleasant . weather and a fair wind. We passed between For*' mosa and Betol Tobago, when I discovered another island, lying ten leagues further north than the latter. Asthis island is not marked on any chart, and being on a very unfrequented track, I presume it has not been seen by any naviga^ tor before me ; therefore I named it after my partner and friend, Mr. Cleveland. I continued my voyage with great apprehension through this unexplored sea, with a tolerable proportion of favour- able \vinds, and on the 13th saw the island of Lieu/cieit. This is a large poptilous island, chief of a groupe lying between it and Formosa, and subject to Chi- na. Its inhabitants are highly ci- vilized, and, like the Chinese, car- ry their origin back to the remot- est antiquity. It is not governed as a province of China, but by tlicir own natural soven itciis, who, on account of their prompt submis- sion to the Tartar emperors of China, were left in the full enjoy- ment of then* power and privi- leges, nothing being required of them but a trifling annual tribute, by way of acknowledgment of their dependence. It is reported that the arts and sciences are h.'M'e as far advanced as in China; and, had I been successful on my voy- age, it was my intention to visit this island on my return to China. On the 1 8th I saw the island of Todos Santos : tliis is a small un- inhabited island, abmit leagues distant from llie southern coast of Japan. We had now got entire- ly out of the regions influenced by the trade winds and monsoons, and, in consef[uence, our voyage towards the American continent was continued with great rapidity, though not with much comfort, as we had very stormy weather, and a constant succession of hard wes- terly gales. On the 1st of May we arrived off Columbia river, without having experienced any- material damage except springing our foremast, which was also much decayed ; and it was my intention to have entered this river to pro- cure a new one, and some other spars that we were in want of, and which are very abundant there ; but, during eight days that I plied off the river, the weather was so tempestuous that I never dared to attempt crossing the bar, on which the sea broke with hor- rible fury. Columbia river was discovered by captain Grey, of Boston, com- mander of the Columbia, in 17—. It is a noble river, and the only con- siderable one on the western side of our continent ; the latitude of its mouth is 46° 20' north. It is supposed to be the " Oregan or river of the west" of Carver, and that its sources are near those of our Miitsouri. The rapid cur- rent of this great river, meeting the swell caused by the westerly winds, tha^ have the whole sweep of the ocean from Tartary to the American continent, forms a bar at its mouth, which is always dif- ficult, and sometimes dangerous to pass. On the 9th of May, I proceeded down the coast in search of a port of less difficult entrance. Nothing can exceed the wild beauties of this coast. Its mountains, rising in magnificent amphitheatres, co- vered with evergreen forests, with here and there a virdant plain near the shore, and a snow-capt mountain in the back ground, of- fer a view grand and sublime in the highest degree. Here nature iVB.' «' ••>#.. J"- y JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE, 8cc. 139 reigns undisturbed. The slow prog^ress of the savages towards cultivation has hardly raised them above the condition of brutes : except the human form and the use of langua^^e, there is little to distinguish them from the foVir- footed inhabitants of their fo- rests, with the crudest of which their dispositions seem congenial. Yet, amoni^ these rude savages may be set^n a proof, that mar, in all countries, in similar situations, is led by necessity to similar in- ventions. Here the primitive arms, the bow and arrow, the spear and the dagger, are the only ofTensive arms ; and the shield of raw hide, of the savages of the old continent, is here found under the form of a jacket of moose skin, more simple perhaps, but an- swering the same purpose. The latter is universally adopted by the Spanish troops on their frontiers, us the most convenient defensive armour. The 1 1th, we arrived at the harbour of Trinidad, and moored the ship in seven fathoms, sandy bottom, and commenced a trade for furs with the Indians. They appeared to be very civil ; and I endeavoured to conciliate their good-wiU by every means in my power : to what effect will be seen hereafter. In the mean time, we began our preparations to wood and water, and 1 went ashore with the carpenters in search of spars, which we soon found in sufficient abundance, and the latter were immediately em- ployed in felling a large spruce, and reducing it for u foremast. The 13th, the savages came on board in great numbers, and, pre- suming on our indulgence, began to take greater liberties than tiiey had heretofore done, and, on being checked, they immediately pre- pared their .;rms. Conscious of our superiority, I did not permit any violence to be offered them, and * they were prevailed on to leave the ship ; but 1 determined not to suffer them to come aboard again in such numbers with arms. A number of them were equally troublesome to our wooding party ashore, and even attempted to seize on their axes. Every thing was finally settled, however, by means of some trifling presents, and harmony again restored. The 1 4th, I sent the second officer with an armed party a watering; unfortunately the surf was high, and they got their arms wet at landing. I'he Indians had been reinforced by some neighbouring tribes, and began to gather round, demanding pay for tiie water : they were at first satisfied by as- surances of being paid aboard, hut, as their numbers increased, they became more clamorous, and, finally, sending away their women and children, they seized the water casks, which they im- mediately stove for the hoops. The officer, seeing their hostile disposition, and the bad state of his arms, very prudently retired, without any resistance to their violence. On tiie report of the second mate, I ordered a four pounder to be fired just over their heads, to intimidate tiiem,by show- ing the effect of our shot. In the mean time, a canoe came oft' from the village to trade, as if nothing extraordinary had happened I was extremely irritated at such conduct, after the great pains I had taken to conciliate their friendship, and ordered four of them to be seized and confined in irons. In the course of the day, several canoes came off to treat s >c #■ zWi?:- IK -/ P -^**^| <»1P P .IPJMPIK I II ■ I' { if A AMERICAN REGISTER. O^ :, for the prisoners ; I always de- manded, as an indispensible con- dition, that the casks should be returned; they gave me to un- derstand that they had been sciz- .'sd by anoth:;r tribe, but, by their bringing foi'.i- of the hoops, and some staves, I was satisiicd that they were at least concerned in the outrage, and refused all their A. solicitations on any other eondi- tions. \Vood and water were ab- solutely indispensible, but the mast lay so far from the beach, that 1 judp;ed it dangerous to at- tempt getting it down, after the savages had become so numerous, and showed such hostile disposi- tions. In the afternoon, I sent two officers with tlie boats and ten men well armed, to the watering- place opposite the village ; the long-boat with six men were sta- tioned in the edge of the surf, ivithin pistol shot of the beach, and the others went ashore to fill the casks. The savages sufl'cred them to finish their work ; but, as they were shoving ofi' tlie boat, which lay aground, they ran J down in a lonj^ file, firing a rloud > of arrows as they approached; they returned them several vollies from the long-boat, which tlie sa- vages stood with great resolution, and did not retreat ui. ill several of them fell, when they were witiiin ten yards of our men on the beach, wlio were unainied. They received a number of arrows in their clothes, but none were hurt. I now saw tiiere '.vus no way to get wood and wiuer, wiiliout fighting for it, and made prejiara- tions toiand again the next morn- ing. Early on the l5th, 1 went, with two lioats well armed, to the watering-place ; the savages showed tliemselves in every di- rection, howling hideously, I sup- ixise for the death of 'some of their companions, but did not seem dis- couraged. I disconcerted all their plans, however, by taking possession of a rock within ten yards of the shore : its top was flat and spacious, and commanded the wliole shore, the village, and e . ery lurking place, within a suffi- cient distance to ensure the safety of the working party in the most complete manner. Here I placed a detachment of three men and an ofTicer, with orders to fire on every savage that should show himself. This disposition of our force had the desired effect ; after a few shots they all retired, and suffered us to pursue om- work in peace. J lad we suffered them to assemble within reach of our guns, there is every reason to suppose they would have ventured another attack, in which numbers of the poor wretches must have fallen victims to their blind ttmeiily. In tins manner our work advan- ced iij)ace ; and being convinced that tl>e keeping our prisoners any longer could now answer no good pvu pose, 1 set them at liberty, tell- ing them, by signs, that they and tlieir tribe must all remove back luuil we were gone. I believe tlie ])oor wretches had begun to despair of ever seeing their friend:? again, though we treated them with all possible indulgence while in our power. As soon as tliey hmcltd, the savages entirely (iisap- puartd. I am certain that our conduct with tliese people will be attended with salutary efTects to any oilier siiip that shoidd ever visit tliis port; as, notwitlistanding our having acted entirely on the defen- sive, we have convinced them of our superiority, and shown that we had no wish to injure them wantonly, but that we were able, ;ie of their It seem dia- jicerted all by taking- within ten its top was oramanded Ivillage, and lithin a suffi- ■e the safety in the most ere I placed men and an to fire on hould show )sition of oiu' efiect ; after retired, and e our work in ered them to h of our guns, }n to suppose ilured another mibers of the it have fallen id ttniti it}', ur work ad van - ;ing convinced r prisoners any nswer no good at liberty, tell- I, that they and 1 remove back ne. I believe had |be(>un to flfjj their friendr. treated them dul{»cnce while i soon as tlicy i t-niirely disap- ;rtain that our ; people will be itary elTects to should ever visit itiistanding our ly on the defcn- ^inced them of nd shown that lo injure them , we were able, vmapmr r Sf^^ «■ w 1 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE, &c. Ml if we chose, to take the most complete vengeance for any in- sult. On the 1 6th, I sent ten men well armed, with two officers, into the woods for some small spars. Unfortunately the second mate let a tree fall on him, and broke his thigh. He was brought on boaid senseless ; I immediately bled him, which brought him to, when I set the bone and applied the liandages necundum urtcm. The savages again made llicir ap- pearance on the hills, so that I thought it most prudent not to expose the men any more after our misfortune, by sending them Into the woods, which allbrd so many lurking places. The Indi- ans appeared desirous to make peace, and several of them came aboard to trade as usual ; but vvu did not on that account relax from any of our precautions. In the afternoon I sent the boats to finish watering, when our fortress on the rack was still found to be necessai y, as, notwithstanding their friend- ly demonstrations in the morning, the savages fired several arrows at our working party ; but the lire at the rock kept them at too great a distance to do us any mischief. On the 1 8th, with clear pleasant wea- ther, we unmoored and left Tri- nity. At noon, in latitude 40° 49' north, saw cape Mendocino ahead, and the port we left astern. Trinidad is a small bay of abouV three miles circuit, situated in la- titude 41° 3'N., on the norih-wcst coast of America. It was disco- vered by the Spaniards, in 1775, and was visited and surveyed by capl^in Vancouver, in 1793. The soundings are very regular, as you enter the bay, from twenty-five lo four fathoms, which last depth is found within a cable's lengtli of the shore. . The bottom i» a ciean black sand, with a small mixtureof shells; it is entirely free from rocks, except a border of less than a cable's jength from the biach., that runs quite round the bay. This bay is formed by a high rocky point, running from the northward in a direction of about south by west ; within, it forms an elbow, and makes a snug cove, about threcxjuarlcrs of a mile deep. In the same direction, ofT the point, lies a high white rock, within which and the point is the best entrance ; and in about a north- west direction from the point lie three rocky islets, and a range of sunken rocks, extending several miles from tlie land, which, with the wliile rock, break the swell, and render it quite smooth in the cove, wliere several ships may lie moored head and stern in a clear bottom, in the most perfect secu- rity. This bay is bordered by a rocky shore, with sandy beaches at intervals ; behind this, the land rises vei-y quick for about 100 yards, which space is thickly co- vered with brakes, nettles, straw- berry vines, clover and otiicr her- bai^c, and shrubbery. The top of iliis elevation is a plain, gently rising, and covered with a thick forest of cedars, iir, l^emlock, and spruce. A little way in, the trees grow lo an enormous heiglit and size, particularly the cedars, ma- ny of wliich shoot up like beauti- ful coUunns, above eighty feet, witiiout a limb or twig. Behind these, llie mountains rise to a great height, and are covered with cvcrgitcn forests, that are probably coeval with the soil that noui'i'jhes them. This high land is split, ut intervals of about a quar- ter of a mile, by deep gullieg, down which flow streams of ex- cellent water into the bav. These V,1 I ■5 \' /'! ''^',s 149 AMERICAN REGISTER. *• r gullies are impenetrable by reason of the thick growth of underwood and timber; the former is prin- cipally alder, which may be cut at the entrance of the gullies, and is the only wood tliat can be easi- ly procured at Trinity. A little vrithin, the forest is pierced in eve- ry direction by paths made by the moose deer, whicli seem to abound here. On the side of the hill, at about the middle of the bay, stands the Indian village ; it consists of about a dozen huts, built of a very rude kind of planks, made by splitting the ancient trunks of the fallen cedars with wedges. They are wrctclied hovels, partly under ground, and each affords a doubt- ful shelter to several families. The savages inhabiting this vil- lage can, I think, hardly exceed 1 00 persons ; they are of the middle stature, and of a strong robust ap- pearance ; there is u considerable variety of countenance among them; and I observed several of both sexes, wl j, if divested of their filth, might pass for hand- some. I remarked one man among them whose skin was per- fectly white ; he had nothing in his countenance peculiarly Indian, and his hair was sandy This man ap- peared to be about thirty-five years of age. They are all clad more or less with skins of differ- , ent animals ; the women with great motlesty, but the men total- ly disregard it, generally wrap- ping what skins they wear round the upper parts of their bodies. They are very fond of ornament- ing themselves, and wit!i that view greatly disfigure their per- sons, by tatooing and painting. One of their women oll'cred me a piece of red ochre in exchange for a string of beads. I observed several among them, of both sex* es, who had their teeth filed down even with their gums; whether by way of ornament, or for what other reason, I could not discover. The men wear their hair clubbed behind, which they increase in size by false hair; the married women divide theirs into two equal parts, which they form with a variety of ornaments into two enormous queurs^ that hang down before ; the young girls have their hur simply combed and cut short rouHd the forehead ; they have of course a much more in- teresting appearance than the ma- trons. The men were very jea- busof their women ; and, whether it was from fear or chastity, the latter rejected all the offers made them by our sailors, though some must have been of immense value in their estimation. Tish are not abun- dant on this part of the north-west coast, except during the periotli- cal visits of the sardina or an- chovy ; and although their forests swarm with deer and other ani- mals, th'jir rude arms render the chase of very doubtful success, so that they are forced to live princi- pally on shell fish ; their bay fur- nishes them a never failing supply of muscles, and the monstrous heaps of shells near their dwel- lings testify that they constitute jthe principal article of their diet, ^"heii' manufactures are, very tolerable leather, made of moose and deer skins, and a variety of baskets, made of the inner bark of t!ie cedar and spruce trees : these are water tight, and serve them for caps as well as donpstic purposes. Their arms are also of their own manufacture ; they consist of bows and arrows, point- ed with bones and flints, spears and daggers of wood and iron ; ? ii of both sex- tli filed down ms; whether \t, or for what d not discover, r hair clubbed increase in the married irs into two ley form with cnts into two lat hang down girls have imbed and cut >rehead ; they nuch more in- :e than the ma- were very jea- ; and, whether t' ciiastity, the he offers made >t though some iimense value in sh are not abun- the north-west >g the periodi- sardina or an- gh their forests and other ani- rms render the itful success, so i to live princi- ; their bay fur- !• failing supply ;he monstrous tar their dwel- Lhey constitute e of their diet, •es are, very iiade of moose k1 a variety of e inner bark of :e trees : these ul serve them as donpstic arms are also ifacture ; they 1 arrows, point- flints, spears ooU and iron ; JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE, kc. 149 the latter are rude, being formed from pieces of iron obtained di- rectly from foreigners, or by trade with more fortunate tribes : in their fabrication, a large stone serves for an anvil, and a smaller \ one for a hammer. Their bows are ' about three feet in length, made of light wood, and very ingeniously 8treni;thcned with whale sinew, glued to the back : in the use of ; thiii arm they are very dextrous. ■ Their canoes are of very simple construction : they are square at j. each end in the form of our river fishing boats, and are capable of carry ii>g about fourteen persons. As these savages are hardly emerg- ed from a state of nature, their language is of course barely suffi- cient to express the most common ideas ; I was only able to learn three words of it, which seemed to be of very general signilication, and, with the assistance of signs, were sufficient to make myself un- derstood by them. I could not discover that those savag'',s had the least idea of cul- ture; yet they had a plenty of to- bacco, which they smoke out of a wooden tube. It is possible they • may obtain it in trade from some more civilized tribe of tlie interior. These people, at first, utterly disregarded our fire-arms. They did not excite in them the least curiosity, although I took the pre- caution, when we first arrived, td show them their efiects, by firing a cannon with shot against the rocks, and by killing several birds in their sight with our small arms. In our first skirmishes, they attempted to shield tlieniselves i against our shot with pieces of , boards and moose skins, and it was I not until several of them had paid j severely fur their presumption, that they began at all to respect our fire. At first, I attributed this temerity to natural bravery; but I afterwards found it was rather stu- pid ignorance, as, when experience taught them that they were in danger from our shot, they kept at a wary distance. Those poor savages greatly ad- mired Harriet, and when we were at peace she had a constant train of admirers round her. The young bucks were at great pains to paint and decorate themselves to please her ; one of them carried his gal- lantries so far as to present her with an otter skin : a striking instance of the influence of the fair sex on man, in his rudest state. On the 23d, we arrived on the coast of Californid; where I got abundant supplies of provisions, and began a trade with the mis- sionaries and inhabitants for furs. We continued on the coast of Cali- fornia until the 8ih of July, when we sailed for thegulf of that name. On the 1 3th, off Ceras, we fell in with an bnglish whaling ship from London. The captain dined with us ; and, as we were mutually in want of sundry things that we were able to supply each other with, I ran in and anchored along side of him. This gentleman was very friendly and polite, and, as he had his wife with him, who was also a very genteel woman, I spent a day with them in a most agree- able manner. On the 22d of July, we doubled the point of Calilornia, and, proceeding- up the gulf, ar- rived at the port ol Guimas the 2d of August. Guimas is a large commodious port, in the tweiity-eitjhth degree of north latitude, on the continent side of the gulph of California. It is entirely desert, and sixty miles from any settlement. The whole of this country, from its re- i ' I \l '11 .// •/i !'» -'I ( I ( 1 I I ! \W AMERICAN REGISTER. mote situation from any comnier* ciat \xiru is very badly Hupplictl >vith ^norU, and, from the great nbimdance of gold and silver in it, they are no where in greater de mand. But otir evil genius had so ordrrcd it, tl-.at the same intel- ligence that iiiloinu'd the mer- chants of my arii\al, informed the governnicnt also, whoimmeili.itc- ly took llie most en'erltial mea- sures to cut oil' all coinmuiiijatioti with us. llcing, however, iu a still harljour, we hoislcd mit otn* foremast, and iishtd it wiih the timber we got in California ; hut I found it in so had a stale, that all we could do was to botch it up so as to serve for a lime only. Wcj also examined the ship's boUom, and had the morlilicatioii to Hnd that the sheathing was fast going, by the myriads of worms that hud lodged themselves in il. A short time alter our arrival, there was a large body of troops stationed at Guimas to prevent all communi- calion, which, with the wretched slateof the ship, determined mc to go over to the Califoniia side of liie gidf, in search of a port where 1 could give her a more I'lorough repair. On the 18lh of August, the ship was again rigged and ready for sea, and we accordingly sailed in the evening. During our stay at Guimas, the Spanisli olViccrs had behaved with great civility, though rigid in their duty ; they often dined aboard, and frequently invited me to iheir i|uarters ashore, which 1 declined accepUng, not caring to place my- self in their power. On the I yth, I anchored off the moiilli of the vivcr Yacpii, where I intended to water, as it was very doubtful whether we should find any on the l)arren shores of California. We had only lime to get on board eight hogsheads of water, as there came on u very violent gale from the southward, which lusted three days with little intermission. Although the ship rode very easy with the whole of the sheet cable, I had serious apprehensions for our foremast, wliicli worked very much in the heavy swell that rolled in. On the '23iU the weather again re- siuiud its usual serenity, and we sailed from Yacjui. On the 37th, we arrived on the coast of the peninsula, among an extensive range oi islands, of the most bar- ren, uncomfortable appearance. Here 1 anchore. , ;• 146 AMERICAN REGISTER. >^. /Ptf^- most considerable of which are, Conchaguita, that forms a channel with the western shore, of about three ntiles width ; Mangera, east from the latter, three miles dis- tant; and Tigre, about four miles north of Mangera. These islands are high and thickly covered with verdant forests ; Tigre is the high- est; its top runs up to a peak, and is bare. In a direction of about S. E. from Mangera, three or four miles distant, are two rocks, called the Farellones. About N. W. from Conchaguita, five miles distant, is a low rocky point, that forms to seaward a fine sandy bay, where once stood the city of Amapalla; round the point, the bay runs up to tlie westward, and makes the fine harbour of Con- chagua. On its left margin go- ing in, stands, in a pleasant situa- tion, the city of San Carlos, if a miserable village of about fifty mud huts deserves such an appel- lation ; it is, however, a city in- habited entirely by mulattoes, and governed by a corporation of two alcaldes, two mayors, two rigi- dors, and four alguazils, all of them carrying the distinctive badges of their magistracy. This harbour is capable of receiving above a thousand sail of ships, with from five to three fathoms strong mud- dy bottom. This part of the bay branches out into a number of creeks, navigalile for boats, and even small vessels, where an abundance of timber may be had, and fine mangroves, fit for masts for the largest ships : they also serve as embarcaderos to the planters. The eastern part of this im- mense bay, according to the best information I could obtain, is very slioal: the port of Pueblo del Vijo, .situated on that side, was once ca- pable of receiving ships, but is now choaked up with mud ; it serves at present for shipping and receiving, in large canoes, the F">ods that pass between Granadb and Leon, and Guitimala and the other commercial towns on the western side. This bay may be known by the very remarkable volcanic moun- tain of San Miguel, which stands to the westward, a good way in- land ; it is round, very high, and square at the top The entrance is clear and saie any where be- tween the western shore and the Farellones ; but as the harbour of Conchagua is the only safe place in it, on account of the strong northerly gales that blow here at full and change, the western channel should always be prefer- red ; keeping as near mid channel as may be, there will be found not less than five fathoms at low water. From abreast of the isK.nd to the point, it deepens to twenty fathoms, and then gradually shoalens again : calculations should be made for the tides, which are very rapid and regular : at full and change, it is high water at the point at two o'clock. To the northward of Conchaguita there are several other islands, over to which there is but two fathoms at low water, so that, coming into Concliagua by either ol the other channels, a ship would have to cross that shoal, which may be avoided by taking the western entrance. At present none "f the islands of this bay are* inhabited, except Tigre and two small ones near it, where there are cattle ; they were aban- doned, together with the city of Amapalla, on account of the de- predations of the bucanniers, and now exhibit no vestige of former improvement. The only towns '■^': JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE, See. 147/ vi; 13 now existing contiguous to these of character than I have observed shores are, San Carlos, before any where. They are kind, hos- mentioned, and Conchagua, an In- pitable, and friendly to strangers,, dian village, not far distant from but among themselves are envi- the former. Three leagues from ous, and much given to tattling. the port is the small town of San During my short stay with them, Alexo, a place of inconsiderable consequence; and six leagues fur- ther is the city of San Miguel, the latter containing from 5000 I learnt all the anecdotes of their society, and rarely heard theii^ speak well of each other. This diabolical passion seems inse- to 6000 inhabitants, and is a place of parable from the human mind, considerable wealth and trade. These poor people are almost The fruits of this country are universally infected with the ve- ihose common to the tropical nereal disease ; they have no phy- regions, and are exquisitely fine of sicians among them, and conse- their kind. They have, as in all quently perish miserably ; though tlie Spanish American settle- ments, a great abundance of cat- tle. Indian mm is the grain most in use among them, and they raise wheat in sufficient quantities for their own consumption. In com- merce, indigo is the staple pro- duction of the country, and is of a quality superior to any other. they are so accustomed to it, that they give themselves very little uneasiness about its consequen- ces. Neither is this apathy con- fined to the ignorant country peo- ple: several Spaniards from San Miguel showed me the ravages of this scourge of the human race on their own persons, and spoke There are very few slaves in this of it with the greatest sangfroid province : the lands are almost en- imaginable. lircly cultivated by free hands. The climate, from October to May, is dry, pleasant, and healthy ; the rest of the year they have On the 24th of February, I ar- rived without any remarkable oc- currence on the coast of California, where we got plentiful supplies of abundant rains; but, on account of provisions as usual, and were not the strong winds from the moun- unsuccessful in our collections of tains, which blow generally at full furs. The I4th of March, I and change of the moon, and pu- paid a visit to the island of Santa rify the atmosphere from the pu- Catalina, where 1 had been inform- trid exnaiaions from the numer ous marshes, they are free from any malignant disorders. Tertian rivers are however very prevalent ed, by the Indians, that there was a good harbour. We remained tlicre a few days only, to ascertain that point. We found the har- in tliat season. Near the |)oint of hour every thing that could be de- Conchagua there are hot springs, sired, and I determined that, after which seem to be strongly inipreg- nated with sulphur : the inhabi- tants informed me that ihey had found relief from rheumatic pains by bathing in them. The inha- bitants of this country, having little communication with Eu- I'opcans, have a greater simplicity collecting all the skins on the coast, I would return to it and ca.een the ship, which she was by this time greatly in want of. After comj.ieting our business on the coast, we returned to Santa Catalina, and anchored in the har- bour on the 1st of May. As I /,;■ L^S .-■f ^ ^li m m ¥ f 148 AMERICAN REGISTER. '> I was the first navigator who had ever visited and surveyed this place, 1 took the liberty of naming it after my much respected friend, M. De Roussillon. We warped the ship into a small cove, and landed the cargo and » /ery thing moveable, under tents that we had previously prepared for their reception. The Indian inhabi- tants of tliis island, to the amount of about 150 men, women, and children, came and encamped with us, and readily afforded us every aid in their power. After caulking the ship's upper works, and paying, or rather plas- tering them willi a mixture of lime and tallow, as we had no pitch, tar, or any resinous sub- stance on bor.u, M'e careened her. \Vc found her bottom in a most alarming state : the worms had nearly destroyed the sheathing, and were found to be lodged in the bottom planks. I was now pretty well assured of what I had long before feared ; that is, that she would not carry us back to Canton. We, however, repaired the first side in a tolerable manner, and paid it with a thick coat of lime and tallow ; riglited and hove out the other side, wiiich we found far worse than the first. The keel and stern-post were nearly reduced to a honey-comb. It was necessary to heave her far out, in order to apply effectually such re- medies as were in our power, but unfortunately we hove her rather too far, and she upset and filled. This was a sad misfortune. It did not discourage us, however, and we went to work with snirit and resohition to remedy it, and luid the suti-ifaction of righting her the next day, without appa- rently having suffered any mate- rial daniage. The day following we pumped and bailed out the wa- ter, and the day after hove the ship out a third time, but had the misfortune to find her leak so bad, that we were obliged to right her immediately. I next determined to lay the ship ashore at high water, and endeavour to repair her when the tide should leave her. This experiment was tried without ef- fect, as she buried herself so much in the sand, as to put it out of cmv power to do any thing effectual ; but the greatest misfortune was, that, as the tide came in again, we found the ship leak so bad, that both pumps were necessary to keep her free. This demanded an immediate remedy ; and as the leak was known to be aft, I order- ed the mizen-mast to be cut away in order to come at it. The leak was soon discovered by this means, but so situated that we could apply no other remedy than the lime and tallow that had i)cen previously p'epared.for Jier bot- tom ; this, Uii^ed with oakum, was driven f New Al- bion, but that of California has since prevailed. The Califomias are bounded, on the east, by the gulf of the same name, or Vermillion sea, and the country of the Colorado Indians; on the south and west by the Pacific ocean ; and on th<; north by the unexplored regions of north-west America. The south point of California, called Cape St. Lucas, is situated in latitiide 22° 45' N., and lon- gitude 112° 16' \V. from the me- ridian of Paris. The western side extends in about a north-west direction to the post of St. Fran- cisco, which at present forms the northem frontier of this country, and is situated in latitude 37° 47' N. The eastern coast runs up in a direction little more north- erly, to the head of the gulf, in latitude 31° 38' N.: so that the widest part of the peninsula hard- ly exceeds thirty leagues. California is naturally divided by a range of high mountains, call- ed the Sierra Madre, that runs from south to north, through its whole extension, and each side is bordered by a number of islands. Those on the western side, that form the canal of Santa Barbara, are St. Miguel, Santa Rosa, Santa Cruz, Santa Barbara, Santa Cata- lina, and Santa Clemente. Seve- ral of these islands are large and well watered, and most of them are inhabited by Indians not yet converted. Farther down is Gua- daloupe, in latitude 22" 48' N., sixty leagues from the coast, un- inhabited, and no water near its shores. This island is very high, and of al)out thirty miles circuit. Ciras is a large island of a trian- gular form, and about ninety miles circuit ; its south point in latitude 28° 3' N ., and about twelve leagues from the coast. There are three small islands off the north end of this island, called San Benito, which together form a good har- bour ; and off the south end lies an- other small island, perfectly bar- ren. Water may be had on Ci- ros only ; it also swarms with sea elephants, and on the others are large numbers of fur seal. There are several oilier islands further down the coast, but I am unac- quainted with their nature and po- sitions. Tiie islands on the east- ern coast are numerous, and some of them large ; but they are ■■ . ^M J^ 150 AMERICAN REGISTER. I perfectly barren, and afford no- thin;* of any utility except salt. i,, On this side also, in latitude is an extinguislied volcano, where great quantities of excellent sul- phur may be gathered ; in the same neighbourhood there is an ^" abundance of red ochre. The climate of California gene- rally is dry and temperate, and remarkably healtliy ; on the west- ern coast the sky is generally ob- scured by fogs and haze, but on the opposite side it is constantly clear ; not a cloud is to be sect), night or day. The north-west winds blow very strong eight months in the year, on the west- ern coast, with very little interrup- tion; the land Iireezes at that lime arc hardly perceptible ; but in the winter months they are stronger and regular. In the months of January, Vtbruary, and March, there are at limes ve- ry high gales from the south-east, which render most of the bays and harbours on the coast unsafe at that season. The face of the country is mountainous ; the upper division is beautifully interspersed with pleasant and fertile valleys and plains, many of which are cover- ed with fine forests of oak and otiier limber: these are almost uni- versally remote from the seacoast. The iiarl)our of Sau Francisco is formed by the entrance of an immense river, which hiis been explored but a very little way from liience; otherwise, there are in (lali'" nia none of what would be called rivers in other countries, but many rivulets tiiut run from the hii;h kuulsinlo the sea. The lov.cr division is uncommuuly bar- ren : it helilon\ rauis tiiere, and there are lew spnngs of water, ^^ hich grow annually scarcer, in- somuch that they have been oblig- ed^ on that account, to abandon se- veral missions that were former- ly situated in fertile valleys, now parched up with drought : the southern part of the peninsula ly- ing contiguous to the tropic of Cancer, is better watered and more fertile. Most of the animals of Europe have been naturalized in Califor- nia, where they have increased to a great degree : it is said that more tlian 80,000 cattle run wild in the mountains of the south part of the peninsula. This climate seems to be particularly favoura- ble to horses and mules, as they retain their strength and vigour till past thirty years. The coun- try abounds with deer, hares, fox- es, wolves, bears, ounces, pan- thers, and a species of wild goat called vercmla : in Upper Califor- nia the moose deer is also found in great abundance, and there are great numbers of tufted partridges and quails. Most of the fruits and vegeta- bles of Europe have also been naturalized in California, where ihey come to great perfection. The only fruit peculiar to the country, that 1 have seen, is the pi- taya: it is a species of the pricking pear, or Indian fig, and lias a most delicious flavour. They also have a plant here called the mixcal, which I have never seen in any other country, though I am in- formed it al)ounds in New Spain. This plant greatly resembles the aloes in appearance, and grows in great abundance on all the barren shores and mountains of Lower California. Tiie manner of pre- paring it for use is as follows: when it has come to its jwint of maturity, which is easily known by the size and roundness of the 1 i i ■wwn jm ■p^ mmt mmmmmmm JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE, &c. It en oblig- mdon se- former- eysi now ;ht : the nsula ly- tropic of and more f Europe n Califor- rcuscd to said that run wild iouth part s climate ' favoura- s, as they nd vigour 'he coun- ares, fox- Cfs, pan- wild goat er Califor- iho found there are partridges id vegeta- also been ia, where jcrfcclion. ar to the I, is the pi- e pricking lias a must ' also have e mixcal, en in any I am in- "cw Spain, inhles the 1 grows in Llie barren of Lower cr of pre- i follows: s point of lily iiuown ess of the heads, they begin by cutting off the top leaves, which uncovers the head, that in form very much resembles a cabbage ; this they cut off as far down as it is tender: in this state it has a very disagreeable taste, and so acrid as to raise blis- ters on the skin. When' they have a sufficient number of these heads collected, they make a kind of kiln, by scraping away the earth in a circular manner, and lining it with stones, where they heap up a large pile of dry brush, on the top of which they place the heads of mixcal, and set fire to it. When the pile is burnetl down to ashes, they withdraw the heads, and scrape away the ashes and stones, when they replace the r.iixcal in the kiln, and cover it with the hot stones and ashes, and the whole with earth, when they heap another pile of dry brush on the whole, to wliich they set fire and leave it. At the end of three days, they open the kiln and witlidraw tiie mixcal, whicli, in pealing off the outside cinders, is found to be transformed into a fine, transparent, delicious sweet- meat: as every head has a parti- cular flavoiir, there is found in one kiln a great variety of pine apples, pears, quinces, £(c., tkc, and of u delicacy and richness of fla\our hardly inferior to the best preserv- ed fruits. The mixcal shoots up a stalk of several yards in height, and about the size of a man's arm, on the top of which grows a large yellow flower, in size and form re- sembling the sun flower: when the seeds ripen the plant dies. \ do not know how long tills plant is coming to maturity, but as of- ten as one is cut anollier springs from the root. This plant grows spontaneously, in great abundance, in the most barren part's, drawij),:^; its sustenance chiefly from the at- mosphere : with a little care, it might be multiplied infinitely. In the winter season, the bays and harbours of California abound with geese, brant, ducks, &c. ; In some of the islands, as before men- tioned, there are great numbers of sea elephants, and fur and hair seals ; the sea otter is also found in great numbers, as far down as the 28th degree of latitude. There is a great variety in the quality of the fur of this beautiful animal, which 1 have reason to think is not entirely the effect of climate: those taken at the mission of San Louis, in latitude of 35° are no way superior to those that are caught in latitude 28° ; and yet the otter that are taken in the ca- nal of Santa Barbara arc superior to any, not only on this coast, but to any others that 1 have seen. This variety is probai)ly owing to the difference of the food on which tiic animal lives ; the climate also undoubtedly has its influence; and the furs of tiiis coast, taken col- lectively, are certainly inferior to those taken in the high latitudes ol" north-west America ; yet in the ' Canton market very little distinc- tion is made between them. There are great numbers of whales in all the seas of California, and a great abundance of excellent fish ; on the upper coast, sardinas and ancho- vies are so plenty, that inimensf quantities might be taken in tiieir season. But no encouragement is given to industry in this country : neither their iisli nor furs can b(^ ■ itroduced into New Spain, with- out paying a heavy duty. The Indians that Inhabit the shores and islands of the canal of Santa Barbara seem to be a race of people (luite distinct from th(^ otiicr aboriginals of the country. * ,£ * f-|l i ". li jl f i 152 AMERICAN REGISTER, m They are a handsome people, re- markably sprightly, courteous, and intelligent, and display great inge- nuity in all their arts. They make fine canoes of small pine boards, sewed together in 'i very curious manner; these are generally capa- ble of carrying from six to four- teen people, and are in form not un- like a whale boat ; they are managed with paddles, and go with surpriz- ing velocity : they besides make a great variety of curious and useful articlcsof wicker work, and excel- lent pots and morlars of stone. The other Indians of this country difl'cr very little am^jng each other in their persons, genius, and man- ners : they are a dull, stupid peo- ple, of the ordinary stature, and far from comely. Tiie fathers inform- ed me, that, notwithstanding their apparent stupidity, they have some rude notions of astronomy ; they distinguish the season by the movements of the heavenly bodies, and mark the hours of the night by the positionsof the ^rear 6«'ar and fdeiadcs. The canoes used on all this coast, except in the ca- nal, are a very rude kind of ma- ' chines, made of flags. Tiie Indians of the canal have a tradition of a race of white men being ship- wrecked on their coast, at some re- mote period : this they assign as the cause of the great diflcrence in tlicir favour before mentioned. The inhabitants of Caiif.iniu were formerly very numeious. In the journal of a voyage performed by Sebastian V'iscayno, in 160:2, to explore the western coast, and by father Gonsag, a Jesuit, in 1746, to explore the gulf of Calilurnia, by order of the court of Spain, it is remarked, that all along, wherever they passed, they found great multitudes of people. 1 have touched at a great nuuiLtr of the same places in the coHrse of my voyages to this country, which are now solitary and desert ; not a soul is to be seen, except now and then a straggler from the neighbouring missions. One of the missiona- ries informed me, that, fifty years ago, they numbered 7000 souls at the mission of the Purissima, in latitude 26° 30', and that at present they do not exceed fifty persons. At i)resent, Lower California is nearly depopulated : no mission there numbers above 330 Indians ; not more than three exceed 250 j and the greater part have less than fifty persons. It is difficult to ima- gine what can have been the cause of this extraordinary depo- pulation, in a country where no establishments but missions and garrisons have been made. At present, the miserable remains ol these people are almost universally infected with the venereal disease, and numbers perish daily, in the most deplorable manner, with thai loathsome disorder : as no pains are taken to stop it, there is rea- son to suppose, tliat in a few years it will entirely exterminate them. Upper California is still populous, and the same disorder rages there with the sahie violence. Captain Vancouver speaks in high terms of the successful practice of medi- cine and surgery by the Francis- can missionaries in this country : I have had a pretty large ac- quaintance with those gentlemen, and I have not known any one among tliein who appeared to have the least tincture of any sci- ence. This observation may also be extended to tlie Dominicans, who are a much politer order of men. They were always solicit- ing medicines and medical advice oi im;, and lamented the unfortu- nate aitualioii ol the country in V JOURNAL OF A VOVAGE, kc. 1»S that respect: many of them assur- ed me, that there was not in all California one qualified physician or surgeon. I have also reason to think that captain Vancouver has likewise overrated their abilities in the arts as well as sciences, as they have not as yet erected a single mill in Upper California, though the country abounds in materials and excellent situations, for both wind and water mills. In such ^rcumstances, such a useful, and '::cessury, and simple piece of mechanism would hardly have been neglected, if they had known how to direct their construc- tion. At present, all their grain is ground by the tedious process of rubbing it by hand between stones, or beating it in mortars. • /vThe Spanish population of the Californias is very inconsiderable ; by the best information I could obtain, it hardly exceeds 3000 souls, including the garrisons, among which, even tiie latter, the officers excepted, there are very few white people : it princi- pally consists ot a mixed breed. They are of an indolent, harmless disposition, and fond of spirituous liquors. That they should not be industrious, is not surprising ; their government does not encou- rage industry. For several years past, the American trading bhips have frequented this coast in search of furs, for which they have left in the country about 25,000 dollars annually, in specie and merchandize. The govern- ment have used all their endea- vours to prevent this intercourse, but without cH'ect, and the conse- quence has been a great increase of wealth and industry among the inhabitants. The missionaries are the principal monoiwliaers of the fur trade, but this inlwicoursc vol.. Ill has enabled the inhabitants to take part in it At present, a person acquainted with the coast may al. ways procure abundant supplies of provisions. All these cigcum- stances prove, that, under a good government, the Californias would soon rise to ease and affluence. The government of this coun* try may be considered as altoge- ther military, although civil caus- es may be carried before the audi- ence of Guadalaxara, in New Spain. The governor rules every thing, and no one undertakes to dispute the legitimacy of his deci- sions. The missionaries are also under his jurisdiction in civil mat- ters, but he does not interfere with the Indians attached to the mis- sions, except at tiie request of the fathers, who are their sovereign magistrates. The political and military ar- rangements for the government of the Californias are as follows: the whole country is divided into six military districts, called firtai' dios, or garrisons ; these are, be- ginning with the northernmost, San l-'rancisco, Monterrey, San- ta Barbara, San Diego, San Vi- cente, and Loreto. In these /trrsi' dcos are distributed about four hundred cavalry, which forms the whole military force of California: they are each commanded by a lieutenant, except San Vicente, which is not properly a fireudco^ and is commanded by an ensign. Tht: /tresideos fiuMiish the neces- sary guards to the missions under their protection; generally from three to five soldiers, with a ser- geant or corjwral, to each mission. The soldiers also do the duty of - couriers; and every occurrence of tiie least consequence is immedi- ately transmitted by express to the governor. During the List war, U 1 1 Vis * I MutAt^u^b^iitf^/itM w I i, I . 154 AMERICAN REGISTER. ^ J. small detachments of artillery were quartered in the principal fireaideosf but they were witlidrawu at the peace. The Californias have, until late- ly, been under one government, of which Monterrey was the capi- tal ; but I am informed that they are now separated. The division is at San Diego, and Loreto is tlie capital of Lower California. I am also informed that considerable re- inforcements of troops are ordered to be raised in New Spain for that country. The plan of civilization in the missions is to instruct the Indians in the catholic religion, the Spa- nish language, the necessary arts, agriculture, £cc. ; but the notion of jjriva'ic property is not admitted among them ; so that each mis- sion forms an indivisible society, of which the fathers are the kings and pontiff's. The missionaries of the Franciscan order, in Upjier California, have salaries of 100 dollars per annum ; the ' lomi- nicans that are established ijclow have but 350 dollars. The mis- sions of California may be consi- dered as so many valuable estates or plantations belonging to the king of Spain, and capable, incise of a concjuest of this country, c^f furnishing abundant supjilics of all kinds of provisions, horses, Stc. I shall give the best account I am able of these missions, as fur as I have information respecting them, together with the other es- tablishments in the country, and its principal bays and harbours. The missions of San I'rancisco, Santa Clara, and t!ie Puebio de San Josef, are within the jurisdic- tion of San I'rancisco. Tiity are represented by captain Vancouver as very fertile and ilourishinr!^, and are esleeincd by the Spaniards to be among the richest establish- ments in the country. Santa Cruz, near Point ^no AV- uvo, and a fiueblo of the same name in its neighbourhood, form the northern frontier of the juris- tion of Monterrey : the first was foimded in 1789, and the second in 1790. Jietwcen that and Mon- terrey stands la Solidad, and near the /iresidco, ElCarmelo. Further down the coast are situated San Antonio, San Miguel, and San Luis ; the latter is the last to the southward within this jurisdiction. Those missions are none of them far removed from the coast : they are reputed rich by the Spaniards in stock and grain ; and the account given by monsieur de la Perousc of the extraordinary fertility of El ' .rmelo, justifies that report. '1 he mission of San Luis is si- tuated from six to twelve miles from the coast, in a fertile valley, watered by several streams: it has 1000 Indians attached to it, audits annual productions are 5000 fane- gos of wlieat, 1500 fanegos of corn, with barley, oats, and pulse in proportion ; it has also vine- yards, and a plenty of fruit. The stock belonging to this mission ex- ceeds 1000 head of liornefl cattle, besides horses, sheep, hogs, goats, &c.; its buildings are said to be excellent ; even the habitations of the Indians are of stone and plais- ter. This mission has a commo- (Hotis port, and a plenty of good limber. The Purissima, situated near Point Conception, forms the north- ern frontier of the jurisdiction of Santa Barbara : it is watered by se- veral streams, and is said to be lit- tle inferior to San Luis in fertility and abundance of stock. Between this mission and Santa Barbara, was founded, in 1304, the i.. ■■•?■ est establish- 'oint Jtno JW- of the same ui'hood, form of the juris- the first was d the second hat and Mon- ad, and near lelo. Further siuiatcd San lel, and San ie last to the s jurisdiction, none of thtm e coast: they the Spaniards id the account le la Perouse fertility of that report. >an Luis is si- twelve miles fertile valley, ireums : it has d to it, and its re 5000 fane- [) fanegos of ts, and pulse as also vine- of fruit. The is mission ex- liorneH cattle, ), hogs, goats, I'c said to be habitations of }ne and plais- las a commo- LiJty of good iiluatcd near ms the north- urisdiction of atered by se- said to be lit- is in fertility on and Santa , in l»04,the mmmm msm JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE, &c. 155 mission of Santa Agnes, about three miles from the coast. It is well watered, is in a fertile spot, and bids fair to be ranked among their richest establishments in a short time. Its productions the first year were 1500 fanegos of wheat, and 500 of corn : the wheat was the production of thirty fanegos sown, that is, fifty for one. Santa Barbara is situated in tlue neighbourhood of the presidio : it has 2400 Indians attached to it. I learnt no particulars respecting this mission^ other tiian that it is very rich in stock 'Uid grain, vine- yards and fruits. San Uucnaventiira is situated about eij^liteen miles below the presidio, half a mile distance from the sea, where there is good an- chorage and safe lanchng : it Mands on the left margin of a charming valley, and has an ex- tensive plain to the south-east of it, which, when I was there, was covered with cattle, and the vale appeared to be cultivated as far us the eye could reach. This mis- sion was founded in 1784: it has 1200 Indians attached to it, and its Slock of cattle is said to exceed 15000 head, besides horses, mules, sheep, hogs, fccc; and its produc- tion in grain, wine, 8cc., aiX; equal- ly abundant. San Fernando is situated be- tween Buenaventura and the Pue- blo de los Angeles : whereabouts I am unable to say, or how far from the sea : the Spaniards re- port it to be a flourishing esta- blishment. The Pueblo de los Angeles is about twenty-five or thirty miles in a north-west direction from the bay of San Pedro, and forms the south-eastern boundary of the ju- risdiction of Santa Barbara. This village is composed of about 100 families, many of whom are in easy- circumstances, and some possess from 3000 to 5000 head of cattle. This part of the coun- try is fertile, and produces large quantities of grain and pulse ; they are also rapidly advancing in the cdlture of the vine, and the wine produced here is of a good quality San Gabriel is situated about twelve or filteen miles north from the bay of San Pedro, and forms the north-west frontier of the ju- risdiction of San Uicgo. I learnt few particulars respecting this mission. It has 1200 'Indians attached to it, and is reported to be very rich in Californian wealth, that is, cattle, gram, and fruits : they informed me that last year (1804) sixty casks of wine were made at San Gabriel. Aliout thirty-five miles down the coast stands San Juan Capris- tano, close to the sea shore, where there is siife anchorage and good landing nine months in the year. The situation of this mission is very romantic and delightful : in a charming valley, thickly shaded with fine trees, through whicii runs a fine stream of water. I learnt few particulars respecting the mission of San Juan, but they say it is not inferior in wealth to any in California. Not far from San Juan Capris- tano is another mission, called San Luis Rey, of the resources and situation of which I am utterly ignorant. Near the presidio of San Diego, is situated the mission of the same name. I know very little of this establishment, which is the last to the southward of the Franciscan order, except that it is esteemed inferior, in most respects, to all their others. . ■ , - \\ i n I a 1 » \. "^ .■'! ., ■!%,■.-... r I ut$ AMERICAN REGISTER. The missions of Lower Califor- nia are hardly worth describing. San Miguel and Santa Catalina are the firsf, and terminate the ju- risdiction of San Diego : they have each about 250 Indians, and pro- duce little or nothing more than what is sufficient for their subsist- ence. San Thomas, San Vicen- te, San Domingo, and Kosario lie along the coast from the bay of Todos Santos, down to the 30° of latitude, and, with a mission lately established in the mountains, form the jurisdiction of San Vicen- te. These missions are of small importance ; their Indian popula- tion are from 200 to 300 souls each. San Domingo is the best, and yields annually about 1500 fanegos of wheat, with other arti- cles in proportion : it also produ- ces a considerable quantity of very good wine, and feeds several thousand head of cattle. The otiiers likewise produce a little wine, except Rosario, which yields nothing, and is dependent on its neighbours for subsistence. The missions of San Fernando and San Borja are the next down thecoast : the iirsl has250 Indians, and the second 400. The wine of San Fernando is excellent, and San Borja has excellent fruits ; but otherwise they produce nothmg of consecjutnce. These missions, with all below, are immediately dependant on Loreto. From San Borja down to San Josef del Cabo, there is not an establishment worth notice ; even Loreto, the ca- pital, produces nothing, and none of the missions have more than fifty or sixty Indians. San Josef might, by encourage- ment, become a place of consi- derable importance ; it is situated in a pleasant vale, that is well wa- tcix'd. There are few Indians at that mission, but there and a pue- blo not far inland from it, called San Antonio, there is a considera- ble Spanish population ; I believe about 400 or 500 souls. They have a plenty of cattle, raise a good deal of corn, make some su- gar and rum, but raise no wheat. Here they have silver mines^ which would be productive, if they had the means of working them ; the pearl fishery is also of considerable importance : in some years they collect as much as twenty-five pounds of pearl. This part of the coi*try is very moun- tainous, and tolerably well water- ed ; it aflbrds retreat and subsist- ence to an incredible number of wild cattle ; they say upwards of 80,000. The Spaniards have complete possession of the peninsula of California ; but that is not the case above : there their domination is bounded by the Sierra Madre, which in no part is far removed from the coast ; so that in reality they are masters of the maritime part of the country only. Beyond that range of mountains the coun- try is remarkably fine, well water- ed, and covered with forests: these they have not as yet been able to penetrate,on account of their being thickly inhabited by warlike tribes of Indians. I am informed that the government have it in con- templation to establish lines of missions and garrisons from San Francisco to New Mexico, and by the country of the Colorado In- dians to the same place, and by these meaps to complete the con- quest of the country. But that is a project that does not seem likely to be very soon realized. San Francisco, latitude 37* 47' N., longitude W., is a fine harbour, capable of receiving the >^ % JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE, 8cc. \S7 e and a pue- m it, called a consulera- ; I believe )ul8. They tie, raise a ke some su- e no wheat, vcr mines, oductive, if of working ry is also of ce : in some IS much as learl. This very moun> well water* and suhsist- niiml)er of upwards of ive complete peninsula of > not the case domination crra Mad re, far removed hat in reality he maritime )ly. Beyond ins the coun- :, well water- orests: these been able to oftheirbeing warlike tribes nformcd that e it in con- lish lines of ns from San txico, and by Colorado In- ilace, and by lete the con- But that is it seem likely Red. itude 37* 47' W., is a fine receiving the largest ships, and afibrds plenty of wood and water. In its neigh- bourhood is a great plenty of timber proper for ship bOilding, and the neighbouring establish- ments may afford ample supplies of provisions. This port is formed by the entrance of an immense river, never yet far explored, but it is thought to be of great extent. Its entrance Is defended by a bat- tery, on which are mounted some brass eight pounders, which afford only the show of defence; and the place could make no resistance against the smallest military force; neither could its resources ni pro- visions be easily removed out of the way of an enemy. Monterrey is an extensive open bay, in latitude N., and lon- gitude W., situated be- tween Point Pinon and Point ^no .\>wvo, lying from each other N. ,72^ Vv ., and S. 28° K., 22 miles apart. It is formed by the coast falling back from the line of the two points nearly four leagues. The only part that is at all eligible for anchoring is near its south ex- tremity, about a league within Point Pinoa, where the shores form a cove that affords a clear, good riding for a few vessels; and as there is always a land breeze night and morning, ships may always go out at that time. There is a mise- rable battery on a hill that com- mands the anchorage, but it is al- together inadequate to what it is intended for. Water and wood are plenty at Monterrey, and the neighlx)uring missions are capable of furnishing abundant supplies of provisions. The garrison is situ- ated immediately in the vicinity of the anchorage, where they have no works capable of affording de- fence. Bernard's Bay, in latitude 38* 8' 45" N., and west longitude 123° 39' 45", is a very commodi- ous anchorage, well sheltered against the prevailing winds ; it is also protected from the southerly gales by a reef, and the holding ground is good : here is a plenty of wood and water, and the wealthy mission of San Luis is about two leagues distant This bay is un- known to the Spaniards : it might, at i\ very small expence, be forti- fier*, so as to prevent a ship's an- choring there. From Point Conception down to the mission of San Buenaventura, there is a great number of anchor- ing places, where wood and water may be had, and the rich missions in that neigl^bourhood are capable of furnishing large supplies of provisions : indeed, this is the most agreeable as well as the most wealthy district in California. About miles to the east- ward from Point Conception is the firenideo of Santa Barbara, with a very smooth, commodious an- chorage, in good weather; but it is greatly exposed to the southerly gales. This place, like San IVan- cisco and Monterrey, has only the show of defence, and would fall an easy concpiest to the small- est ship of war. The next anchorage on the coast is the bay of San Pedro: this bay is very spacious, and has good anchorage and shelter from the prevailing winds, but it is entirely exposed to the southerly gales. Here there is no wood, and, with- out digging wells, water cannotbe procured at all seasons. The mission of San Gabriel and Pueblo de los Angeles are situated, the one twelve and the other twenty- five or thirty miles from this place: u >s3 ■■m I 158 AMCniCAN REGISTER. r 'i: i t •, both of Iheni arc capable of fur- nishing large supplies of provi- sions. Directly opposite to San I'edro lies the island of Sunta Cntnlina.on the north side of which is a small but very fine port, where ships of any burden may ride in the most perfect safety at all seasons. As it is always smooth in this port, it is peculiarly proper for careening and repairing slups : there are se- veral springs of water in its neigh- bourhood, which aflbrd a sufficient supply of that necessary article at all times, and of the best quality. The proximity of this island to all this coast, from Point Conception to Sun Juan Capristano, renders its port of importance, as a winter harbour, to all ships that may have any thing to do there in that y* season. At San Juan Capristano, there is a toleral)Ie sal'o road-stead in good weather, within the rcacli of a foiu" pounder of the wealthy mission of that name. San Diego is a very fine, secure Jiarbovu', formed by an extensive arm of the sea, the entmnce of vliirh is not a cable's ieiurlli wide; there is no where less than four fathoms going in, and witiiin tiu-re is safe anchorage for sliips of any Ijurllun. TluM'e is a sorry batte- ry of tight, pounders at the en- tranre: at prescMU, it dots not me- rit liie least consideration as a for- tifiratlon, !)ut with a little e>;|H'nre might 'ue made capable of (k-itiid- ing tlii< fine harbour. The //rr- f^idio is al)Out four miles distant Irom the anclmraj^e. A considur- al)le force would lie necessary to hold this j>ost, as a binding niipjit be tficcted on the back (jf il, at llie false port of San l)itt!;o: the en- trance of this port is said to be too Liiioii! lu'." s!ii;)' . The bay of Todos Santos is very spacious: at the bottom of it, there is safe anchorage at all seasons. It affords a scanty supply of wood and water, and has in its neigh- bourhood the missions of ban Thomas and San Miguel ; but, as they are poor, no considerable supplies could be expected here. 'I'lie bay of San Quintin is an extensive ai*m of the sea, with a narrow entrance, and difficult of access. This iiarbour is very se- cure, but affords neither woo ot- '■4^' ¥■ M \ 'A f' I i ■ I 160 AMERICAN REGISTER. W1 t. cupy the country, and civilize its numerous inhabitants. It is a cu* rious fact, that in California, as in Paraguai, foreigners were princi- pally employed, particulprly Ger- mans. Their success was equal to the wisdom and energy that cha- racterized all the undeitf^kings of that enterprizing society, as, in i745, there were forty-three villa- ges or missions established below the 28th degree of latitude, where agriculture and the necessary arts were in a flourishing state: at present tliere is not above a do- zen missions below the thirty-first parallel, and several of these do not possess above twenty Indians. At the suppression of the Jesu- its, the care of completing the conversion and civilization of the Indians of California was confid- ed to the Dominicans, and the missionaries of that order were es- tablished in all the missions then on foot, and a commission given them to found others, as circum- stances should dictate. The gov- ernment of the country was |new modelled on the present plan, and the missionaries received their sal- aries directly from the king. In the year 1769, the court of Spain, alarmed at the progress the Unssians were making on the north-west coast of America, de- termined to occupy Upper Cali- fornia, aiid to establisli missions tliere for the conversion and civi- lization of its inhal)itanls. Tiitse they confided to the I'ranciscan order, on the same plan, and near- ly the same condilions, that the Dominicans then achninistercdthe spiritual concerns of the lower di- vision, nnd proceeded to ilie estab- lishment of the garrisons already mentioned. The mutual jealousies and sel- fisli policy of the great Euiopeiin powers have been the causes that some of the most beautiful regions of the universe have long lan- guished under the degrading shackles of ignorance and super- stition ; and the Spanish mo- narchy has been so long left to the quiet enjoyment of the finest part of the new world, that t' ey have been at full liberty to extend their conquests there in every di- rection, without any other obsta- cle than the feeble opposition of the native savages. Any of the great maritime powers that should determine to give independence to New Spain, or wrest it from the Spanish dominion, would natural- ly seek to establish themselves in California, from whence, as a place of arms, they might carry on their operations against that de- fenceless kingdom with a certain- ty of success. This the Spaniards have doubtless foreseen, and been before hand in occupying it, with a view of forming a barrier to those valuable possessions. The foregoing shows that what they have yet done has had a directly contrary effect. They have, at a great expence and considerable industry, removed every obstacle out of tiie way of an invading ene- my ; they have stocked the coun- try with such multuudes of cattle, horses, and other useliil animals, that they have no longer the pow- er to remove or destroy them ; they have taught the Indians many of the useful arts, and accustomed them to agriculture and civiliza- tion; and they have spread a num- ber of defenceless inhabitants over the country, whom they never could induce to act as enemies to those wiio should treat them well, by securing to tliem the enjoy- ments of liberty, properly, and -a IVce trade, which would almost M IP"* JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE, 8cc. , r«t instantaneously quadruple the va- An expedition by sea to Upper luc of their actual possessions : in California would be equally diffi- a word, they have done every thing cult for them : the bad weather that could be done to render Cali- they mustencounterin winter, and fornia an object worthy the atten- the great length of the passage in lion of the great maritime powers : summer, on account of the prevail- they iiave placed it in a situation ing north-west winds, would render to want nothing but a good go- it a very precarious undertaking, vernment to rise rapidly to wealth In a word< it would be as easy to and importance. - keep California in spite of the Spa- The conquest of this country iiiards, as it would be to wrest it would be absolutely uoihing ; it from them in the first instance, would full without an effort to the The Sandwich islands appear to most inconsiderable force ; and as have been subject to many politi- the greatest efforts that the Spa- cal revolmioiis; they have been all, nisli government would be capa- at different periods, reduced under ble of mukiut; towards its recovery the domination of the kings of would be from the shores of New 0\vliyhee,andhaveasoflenregain- S;)ain, o|)pi)sitc the peninsula, a ed tiieir independence. On the military post, esUblisiied at tlie arrival of captain Cook at Owhy- bay of Angels, and that of San hee, it appears that Terioboo, the Diego fortified and defended by a reigning prince, was engaged in a competent body of troops, would war with Mowee, which appears render such an attempt ineffec- to have been terminated before his tual. The Spaniards imve few death, as when that liap|ocned his s)iips or seamen in this part of eldest son was abtcnt on a visit to the world; the arsenal of San iiis relations in that island. At this Blass would be tiieir only resource event, Tamaihamaiha, a yoinig on such an occasion, and tiiat man, brought up in the family of might be very easily destroyed, the late king, seized on the go- But, admitting tliat the inactivity of the invaders should permit them to transport troops over to the peninsula, those that come from .New Spain could not be very formidable, either in point of num- vernment. His pretensions were founded on his grandfatlii r's hav- ing been king, and his father de- frauded of his right ; he was he- sides a young man greatly belov- ed l)y tlie islanders, on account of bers or courage, and they would the mildness of his manners, and have to penetrate through Lower his great abililies as a warrior. California, where they would not find even water in their march : all the other resources of that de- solate country could be easily re- moved out of their way. 'I'hey could not march round the head of the gulf: the natural obstacles which he had hid many opportu- nities ol'displayini;- in the late war. As soon as the young prince Tu- warraholi, heard of his father's death, and of the usurpation of Tammaihamaiha, he returned to Owhyhee with a large army of to such an expedition would be auxiliaries, and was immediately very numerous ; and they must joined by all who were attached to besides force their way through his family and interests, lie ar- maiiy warlike nations of savages, rived with bis fleet off Kaiaka- VOL III. X n ■■-, k k / K ? f'l.' 162 AMERICAN REGISTER. '■/ kooa< where he had an interview with Tamaihamtiihaon the water, in presence of the two armies. The politic Tamaihamaiha be- haved witli great apparent mode- ration on this occasion ; and, after stating his pretensions to the throne, generously offered to di- vide the sovereignly of the island with his rival. This was refused with indignation by the latter, and they immediately separated. Tu- warralioh found means to effect a lanciing, and a general engage- ment was the immediate conse- quence, in which he was defeated witli considerable loss, and obliged to accept of tiie terms previously offered by his rival. A peace between two rivals, of nearly eipial force and pretensions, is seldom cS jjng duration. War again succeeded a short and erjui- vocal peace, in wliicli the superior talents and fortune of 'I'uniaiiia- nv.iiha prevailed . his adversary perished in the iicld of honour, and the former was left in quiet possession of the throne, tlie fami- ly and friends of tiie unfortunate prince taking refuge in Mowee. Several of t!ie principal chicl'^ of Owhyhee saw witii great impa- tience the elevation of Tamailia- mailia. among whom was the cele- brated Tyanah, a man not inferior in talents to the furmcr, but of a ferocious character, so tiuit the government of liie new king was for along lime troubled uilh feuds and insurrections. About this time, the Sandwich is- lands began to be visited by Ibreign trading ships, and liie unsettled state of affairs accounts lor the vari- ous attempts made to cut them oil". Asmallschooiier,bek)ngingtocap- tain Medcalf, of New York, and commanded by his son, was sur- prized and put to death, except Mr. Davis, the mate ; and at the same lime IVlr. Young, Iroatswain of cap- tain MedcalPs ship, was detained ashore. Tamaihamiaha highly dis- approved of this outrage, and was never accused of having any hand in it ; but as the perpetrators were of too much importance to be openly punished at that time, he contented himself with taking the two men imder his protection : they were sent back into the coun- try, and treated with every indul- gence, and, when they had learned the language, were brought to court to assist the king with their talents and information. They have ever since remained faithful to him, have rendered him im- portant services in his subsequent wars, and are to this day his prin- cipal ministers. John Young and Isaac Davis have been the princi- pal means of convincing the island- ers of the good policy of treating foreigners well, and have shown tliem the great advantages thai would derive from a friendly inter- course with them. These advanta- ges were immediately appreciated l)y the enterprizuig Tamaihamai- hu, and the arms and ammunition he obtained in trade from the Ame- ricans determined him to under- take tlic conquest of the Leeward i'kinds, whose chiefs had declared foi I he family and friends of Tu- warraho. This enterprize, after various reverses of fortune, he fi- nally brought to a successful issue ill 17'J5 and 6. Several petty re- bellions have taken place since ; but ihey were easily crushed, and Tamaihamailia has ever since re- mained absolute sovereign of the wb.ole groupc, except yJiooaif the coiuiuest of wliicli he is now medi- tating, as before mentioned. Tya- nah, who ever bore the suprema- cy of Tamaihamaiha with inipa- ^-'^ Journal of a voyage, &c. 163 id at the same itswain of cap- was detained iiha highly dis- irage, and was |ving any hand letrators were irtance to be that time, he ith taking the is protection : into the coun- ;h every induN ley had learned [re brought to ing with their nation. They maincd faithful dered him im- his subscqwcnt is day his prin- rolin Young and lecn tlie princi- iicingtheisland- )licy of treating ind have shown advantages tlia! I a friendly inter- Thcsc advanta- itcly appreciated ig Tamaihamai- aiul ammunition e from the Ame- 1 him to under- . of tile Leeward iefs had declared d friends of Tu- •nterprize, after jf fortune, he fi- i successful issue Several petty re- in place since ; >ily crushed, and as ever since re- soNcreign of the tc.ept ^iiooai, the I he is nowmedi- lentioned. Tya- rc the suprema- uihu witii impa- tience, on the expedition against Woahoo deserted with all his di- vision to the enemy ; but in the grand battle which decided the conquest, he was slain by a priest : bis death immediately turned the fortune of the day, and the whole island submitted to the conqueror. Thus the singular good fortune of Tamaihamaiha so ordered it, that the stroke that assured to him the conquest of an empire, also termi- nated the existence of a treache- rous and formidable rival. Tamaihamaiha is a tall, fine- proportioned man, and of most prodigious strength and activity : he far excels all his subjects in all their man"al exercises. His fea- tures are strong and harsh at tlie first appearance ; but his physiog- nomy softens very mucli on ac- quaintance. He is a man of great natural abilities ; he is very politic in his government, aiui extremely popular; and, if he h.id had the advantages of education, would have been tiiily a great man. His system of government is pro- l)ably dictated by necessity, but it is not calcnlated to promote the happiness or prosperity' of his people : he is, liowever, his own minister ; he takes cognizance of all affairs of importance himself, and often punishes the chiefs for flagrant acts of injustice, by de- priving them of tlieir foiluue and consideration. In the true spirit of despotism, it is well understood that no chief of the least conse- (juence can reside any where but near the person of the monarch, and, as he migrates through his dominions, he draws after him a train mor<; destructive than lo- custs. Every thing is abandoned to f(»llow the sovereign, and the country being descried by all who have an intenwt in its cultivation and improvement of the lands, they are of course neglected. I have observed many fine tracts of lands lying thus neglected, even in the fertile plains of Lahyna* : the ruined enclosures and broken dykes around them were certain indications of their not having i)een always in that state. The islands where the king does not reside, are literally abandoned, which is probably the state he wishes they should remain in during his absence : he does not even maintain governors there, except in Owhyhee, which has been governed for several years by Mr. Young. His stewards, or imperial procurators, are, how- ever, etnployed in collecting all the provisions they can lay hands on, which are conveyed in their small vessels to head-quarters. It may be easily conceived the wars of such a people must, parti- cularly in their consequences, be very destructive. The slaughter is not usually great in the field, but the unrestrained licence, and the waste and destruction of pro- visions by the conquerors, gene- rally causes a famine in the con- quered territory. It is supposed that the wars of Tamaihamaiha have destroyed one-third of the po- pulation of the islands. He is, how- ever, of a humane disposition, and has ever used his best endeavours to soften the ferocity of his adhe- rents. By his own personal inter- ference, he saved the life of the young brother of Tuwarraho, who is at this time in the full enjoy- metit of his hereditary estates, and is treated by, him with kind- ness, and the respect due to his rank. As far as has been in his power, he has restored their cs- • A hRautifiil village iu Mowec t 1 i{ I ,w f h^ iti^ 1 V .. 164 AMERICAN REGISTER. »->> 1;/ 1 tales to the conquered chiefs, and lie takes great pains to attach tlicm to him, by acts of kindness and indulgence : he is not dis- pleased to see a degree of jealousy between them and tliose wlio have been the artists of his i'ortune. The natural ascendancy which great minds have over those of a common mould, enables him to do many things that would not he tolerated in other men ; his known character has given him unbound- ed popularity with the common people, and his equally well known energy and decision prevents any A murmurs from the chiefs. ' Thus has Tamaihamaiha, whose name literally signifies a lone, friendless man, by his own perior talents, reduced the whole of these islands, com])rizing a population of more than 300,000 souls, under his dominion. He had three legitimate sovereigns to contend with, besides the son of the deceased king of Owhyhee, whose physical resources wei e greatly superior to his. They Jiave all disappeared before him, and he has, by elevating tiie weak and depressing the strong, des- troyed the possibility of a success- ful rebellion against him. lie is at present, as far as circumstances will permit him, endeavoiuing to restore prosperity to his inlands, which, as the L.iions that have desolated them for a number of years past are now done away, he will certainly do if he lives. His revenues consist of the pro- duce of his own lands, whicii arc*" very extensive and rich, and a certain annual tax, levied on the lands, proportioned to their pro- ductions. He has besides great resources in the free gifts made him by all classes of his subjects. These are sufficient to enable him to maintain about 500 guards, and to purchase from foreigners what- ever he is in want of for the equip, ment of his vessels, of which he has about thirty,of from twenty tosixty tons burthen. His arsenal is stock- ed with about thirty pieces of iron cannon, lOOOmuskets, and a consi- derable quantity of powder and ball. The discovery of this fine groupe is allril)Uted to captain l>()ok, though the nations say, that, several years before his appear- ance there, a ship appeared off the south end of the island of Owhy- hee : two girls went on board of her in a small canoe, which was stove along-side of tlie ship, and, after remaining a night on board, they returned in a small boat, fiu'nished them by the commander of the ship. This fiict is so well averred tliat it cannot bv.^ doubted ; and tliere is the greatest reason to sup- jwse the ship was Spanish, parti- cularly so as there is a groupe of islands placed on their charts of the Pacific ocean, a few degrees to the eastward of the Sandwich islands, said to have been seen by their Manilla ships. This mag- nificent groupe consists of eleven islands, called Owhyhee, Mowee, 'l'ahowroa,,Ranai, Morotoi, Wha- hoo, Atooai, Neeheeheow, Onee- haw, Morotinnee, and Tahaura, extending between tlie latitudes of 18" 64' and 22° 1 5' north, and lon- gitudes 1;);5" 16' and 162° 46' west from the meridian of Paris, all inhabited except the two last. Owhyhee, the largest and east- ernmost, is in length, from north to south, about twenty-eight leagues, and in breadth, from east to west, al)out twenty-four leagues. The high mountains of this beautiful island, the AJoiia Ron and Moiia h''jision for the skill of their physicians The dress of the Sandwich is- landers is v( ry slight: for the men it consists of a narrow slip of cloth round iheir loins, and is no- thing more than what modesty re- (luiies ; that of tiie women is more ample, and descends below the knees; they also cover the upper pai't of the body with a piece of cloth, in the form of a manialet, and decorate their heads and necks with garlands of flowers. The t-nnemblc of this costume is be- coming, and has a pleasing ef- fect. Formerly they had a prac- tice of tatooing, or jjuncturing dif- ferent parts of their bodies with a variety of fantastical figures, which are indelible, but this prac- tice is getting much out of vogue. Their language is soft, abund- ant, and harmonious ; it abounds in vowels, which render it very proper for poetical compositions, of which they are very fond: their history is perpetuated by tra- ditionary songs, but their music is too monotonous to be jjleasing. Their dwellinyjs are long quad- rangular buildings, very neatly thatched, and tlieir interior is clean, and well furnished with mats to sit and sleep on. The men and women have separate houses, and one sex cannot enter the eat- ing houses of the other. All these regulations I was obliged to cumj)ly with during my residence among them. Their government ■**^-i ■^fi ^^ MPwiia are drawn reign, and with success. also in use, >f priestcraft rs into their cly the good inperance of lilts liit'ir liav- br the skill of Sandwich is- lU: for the tianow slip of ns, and is no- il modesty re- konu-n is more (Is below the ver the upper ith a piece of of a manlalet, eads and necks lowers. The ".ostume is be- a pleasing ef- icy had a prac- puncturingdif- sir bodies with istical figures, , but this prac- hout of vogue, is soft, abund- us ; it abounds render it very 1 compositions, re very fond : )etuated by tra- t their music is be jileasing. ire lung quad- ii very neatly •ir interior is urnished with pon. The men .'parate houses, enter the eal- e other. All was obliged to 1 my residence ;ir govcrnintnt JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE, &c. 169 is a strange mixture of despotism, aristocracy, and liberty. There is ji regular graduated body of no- bility : the present sovereign is not of the highest class in that hie- rarchy ; and though he is as abso- lute a prince as any on earth, he has subjects to whom he pays the compliment of sitting down when they pass, as an honour due to chiefs of a higher grade than him- self. The nobility are, generally speaking, the sole proprietors of the lands, and are masters of the lives and fortunes of their vassals, but not of their liberty. The peo- ple are not attached to the glebf ; their masters may knock their brains out, for the most trivial fault, with impunity; but they can- not force them to work against their wills, nor detain them an in- stant in their service contrary to their inclinations. This balance of rights has a salutary efl'ect, by restraining the landlords in the exercise of their power, and sti- mulating the peasants to industry by their dependence on their chiefs. These haughty nobles, in their turn, live in the same de- pendence on the sovereign, who disposes of their lives and for- tunes at pleasure. The political distribution of their territory im- plies a very considerable degree of perfection in the science of go- vernment. Owhyhee is divided in- to six provinces or principalities, whose limits are very accurately defined, and they are ai^ain subdi- vided into a vast numl)er of dis- tricts, every one of which has its limits and name. The political divisions of the territory of all the islands arc equally well defined. These people have no regular body of laws ; but private property, the basis of all civil government, is clearly defined and arknowlcdj^- VUI.. lU. ed ; therefore, the customs arising- from that principle are sufficiently correct for the government of a simple people. Theft, by cus- tom, is punished by death, and other crimes generally by the Itx talionin, which, as with most barbarous nations, is established among these islanders. The bo- dy of priests may be considered as their legislators. From the in- violable veneration in which their taboos are held, tlie king's man- dates, sanctioned by them, acquire all the force and efficacy necessary. The present sovereign iswell aware of the importance of this supersti- tion to his aulliority,and takes great care to cherish it by every means iu his power. The body of chiefs of these islands has all the vices na- turally to be expected from a pri- vileged class of unenlightened bar- barians, who, as far as regards their conduct towards their inferi- ors, are under the control of no law. They are avaricious, cruel, ajul inhuman in the extreme. 1 have been informed that there have been instances of their kill- ing their own servants for shark bait : such instances of barbarity are, however, very rare, and uni- verstdly reprobated. With fo- reigners these noble personages are very troublesome: they are beggars and thieves, and have no sense of decency or decorum. Indeed, the king is so well aware of their villauy, that he always cautions foreigners against letting any come on board, except those allaciied to his suite. The history of these islands is necessarily very obscure, from their having no way of perpetuat- ing remarkable events but by songs ; and my ignorance of their language made it very difficult to understand their meaning, which Y .J t Mi Itj- \ro AMERICAN REGISTER. is often allegorical. I however learned, tliat they believe them- selves to be the descendants of two persons called Mowee and Hcnai^ who escaped a universal deluge by flying to the summit of a remarkable high mountain of Owhyhce, called the Mona Koah. Here, when the waters began to subside, they say that a large bird, of singular shape and beauty, ap- peared to them, and gave them the laws and regulations they at pre- sent observe. They have receiv- ed by tradition the names of a line of sovereigns, including the pre- sent king, whose number, allowing ten years' reign to each, carries back their political existence nine hundred years. As the monar- chy is not acknowledged to be hereditary, but, after the death of the reiijning prince, is generally usurped by the chief of the most talents and power, the average of ten years may be considered as not far out of the way. The art of agriculture and the construction of fish ponds, they believe to have been taught them by a prince of great wisdom, whose reign is lost in the remotest anticiuity. Many years before the discovery of these islands, two while men landed at Karakakooa in a skis canoe ; one of them is reported to have been much respected for his wisdom and prowess as a warrior. I have seen several of their descendants, whose features are very different from the natives in general. A curious question arises here on the origin of these islanders May it not be supposed that tlie Sandwich islands, with the im- mense range of islands in the southern hemisphere, of which the Marquesas and Society groupes are the commencement, and New Zealand, once formed a continent, joining probably with the Phillipines, New Holland, Java, Bornea, and the immense archi- pelago by which the latter are surrounded, which has been broken up by some of the convulsions to which our globe is subject ? The general conformity of features and complexion of the inhabitants of most of lliese islands justify such an opinion. The language of the natives of New Zealand, the So- ciety, Marquesas, and Sandwich islands is nearly the same ; their manners, customs, manufactures, and religion differ very little. When I first visited the Sandwich islands, I was in possession of a vocabulary of the language of Ota- heite, by M. I)e Bougainville, by which I could make myself un- derstood, and, on inquiry, I found that the names of animals, plants, mountains, and other remarkable objects, common to both coun- tries, \vere not esscntiai/y differ- ent; and it is a remarkable fact, that the term denoting a foreign land in Owhyhee is Otaheite. Yet, Ijefore their discovery, they had no )dea of the existence of any inhabited world except their own : none of their traditions make mention of it, but alt acknowledge a universal deluge. The rela- tive and positive positions of New Zealand and the Sandwich islands, with the other islands between these extremes, render it contrary to every human jrossibility to as- sign them the same origin in any other way. They are situated in different hemispheres, where the prevailing winds are so different, tliat no chance could have carried emigrants from the same place to people the different groupes, unless we allow them to have had« at some remote period, a sufficient knowledge of astronomy lo ex- ^•»ft -^ ••»•,»»< J ft 1:». /Tyfvy^'- %Aa ;..--vw. ,^^ »*'<'■* t-*^- y; t- JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE, 8cc. in plore the ocean ; which is allow- ing; more than any thing among them, that we are acquainted with, can justify. We ran over and anchored in the bay of San Pedro, where I purchased a stock of provisions sufficient to last twelve months, with hogs, sheep, 8cc., for fear of being obliged to take up our resi- dence on some of the desert islands to leeward. But Providence had ordered it otherwise. We conti- nued our run down the coast, col- lecting all the furs in our way, and arrived at the point of Califor- nia the 28th July. Here I took on board a supply of water, and sailed on the 30th for the Sandwich islands. We experienced nothing ex- traordinary in our passage down, . except a violent hurricane, which began on the night of the 8th of August, and lasted until the loth at midnight. The ship was so strained in this gale as to set both pumps going again, and I hardly had a hope that she would live through it. Fortunately, as the gale abated, she leaked less, and our prospects brightened again. At 2 o'clock at night, of the lyih, we, to our gr"at joy, saw fires on the high lands of Owhyhee, and the next morning got under the lee of the island, wlien we were, as usual, visited by great numbers of the natives, of both sexes, who brought us refreshments, &c. On the 22d, we anchored in Kara- kakooa bay in twenty-two fathoms, sandy bottom, where I had the satisfaction to find the Huron, of Newhavtn, from a sealing voyage, bound to Canton. I agreed with this gentleman for my passage, aiul e!nl)arked on board all my furs and specie. I also landed at this island the greater part of my remaining cargo, in the care of Mr. John Young, a respectable old man, long resident in these islands, and at present viceroy of Owliylice. The 31st, I sailed for Whahoo, the present residence of the so- vereign; with him I hoped to make an exchange of my old ship for one of his small vessels, which it was my intention to send back to the coast with the remainder of my cargo, under the direction of Mr. Hudson, a young gentleman who had been long my companion and assistant, I arrived at Wha- hoo the I St of September, wi\erc I found the Atahualpa, of Boston, captain Adams commander, also bound to Canton, from the N. W. coaht. This ship had been treach- erously surprized by the savages of thai coast, and the captain, all the otlicers, and great part of the crew murdered. Other officers and seamen had been put on board from other American ships on the coast, and she was now at the isl- and to refit, where they received, from I he king and others, every assistance and hospitable attention in their power to give. Tamaiha- maiha offered me my choice of all his vessels in exchange for my ship, and promised to equip the one I should choose in the best manner in his power. I accord- ingly made choice of a new schoo-* ner, of about forty-five tons bur- then, then on the stocks, which he agreed to finish, with the assist- ance of my carpenters and men, and what he could not furnish him- self to complete her was to be taken from the ship. Tamaihamaiha was very much flattered by the confidence I placed in him, and assured me that I should have no just cause to repent it. It may seem extraordinary that I should / ■ ■ \ J ) 11- -<,*-• 'w . ,0 iAvt'o^r y- ^Uj vy^ A. I / /' 1 : i ■'J I y 172 AMKRTCAN REGISTER. place such confidence in an un- riiltivated barbarian ; and all I can say in excuse for it is, thai my si- tuation was sucli, that I must at any rate l)e in his power, nnij a half confidence in such cases is al- ways datip;croiis, even wiib sa- vaj^es, as then no appeal can be made to honour or magnanimity. I immediately l)ep;an lanilinp; every ibiuj;; nniainirif!; into the kind's store, and on the '.'th I delivered the ship up to his ai:;enls, and re- moved ashore to a commodious s 'V 4 - 1 ^>. If s^ A ir4 AMERICAN REGISTER. than two persons slightly wound- ed. On the 2d of October I embark- ed on board of the Atahualpa : in ihe offing, we joined the Huron, who had arrived fromOwhy bee two days before His majesty and fa- mily came on board to take leave, and made me a present of two bcaiitifal feathered cloaks. After bidding adieu to all our friends, and taking an affectionate leave of my fiiend Hudson, we made sail, at 2, P. M., from Whalioo, for Atooai. In the evening of the 4th, we ar- rived ofT the latter, where we fell in with a brig, which, on hailing, we found to belong to 'I'amoree. He was terribly alarmed at first, and refused to come on board ; but after some hesitation he paid us a visit, at about 8 o'clock. Af- ter captain Adams had settled with him for the supplies he wanted, I broached the business of my mis- sion, and represented to him the folly of making any resistance to Tamaihamailia, and llie still great- er folly of expecting to amuse him by idle tales of submission, whicii his conduct constantly gave the lie to, and furnished Tamaihamai- lia with a pretence for treating him as an enemy. I staled to liim tile terms on which he might have peace, anc' exiiorted him to lose no time in sending up to make submiss'^n, and throw him- scH entirely o,i tlie generosity of the king of Owhyhee, wiio, I as- sured him, was disposed to deal favourably by iiim. When he un- derstood the degree of credit I hud with Tamaihamaiha, he de- clared tliat he was ready and will- ing to do any thing that I should at'.vise him to. He desired that 1 would v.riit; to Turoaihamailia, l)rntnising to send my letter im- niediutclv y\>; to Wluiliou bv two of his principal chiefs, as amba«< sadors, and assuied me that he would comply with whatever terms the king of Owhyhee should dictate, that were consistent with honour and personal safety, ji wrote the letter innnediately, stat- ing T:"Tioree's humility, and re- questing Tamaihamailia to attri- bute his past canduct to bad coun- sel, and to deal favourably by him. This poor king has few of the means, either physical or moral, that could entitle him to the glory of contending with the great Ta- maihamaiha for empire, and, al- though 1 do not pretend to ji:sti- fy the latter in his ambitious plans of conquest, yet I think it for the general good of the islands, that they should be under one govern- ment, and 1 have good reason to believe that lliere is no one so ca- pable of wielding the imperial scep- tre as my friend Tamaihamaiha. On the 6th we anchored in Whymea bay, in twelve fathoms, clean sandy bottom, in comp-iry with the Huron and the king's brig, half a milj from the shore. I landed in comnany with the gentlemen from both ships, Ta- moree remaining on board the Huron as hostage for our safety. We saw a fine valley, admirably well cultivated, and watered by a beautiful river; about two miles up this valley, there is an aque- duct of several miles in length, and upwards of twenty feet high, that leads a large body of water from the heights back, round an almost perpendicular moun- tain, to water the high parts of the vale. This work is of great an- ticjuity : it is of stone, and con- structed with much intelligence. We received all we were in want of in the course of the day, and in the evening both ships mmff^mi^ W hiefs, as amba»« lied me that he with whatever Owhyhee should consistent with lonal safety, i 'nimcdiately, stat- iimility. and re- [lamaihu to attri- duct to had coun- vourably by him. 15? has few of the Iiysical or moral, him to the glory |ith the great Ta- enipire, and, al- , pretend to jiisti- is ambitions plans t I think it for the f the islands, that under one govern- ave good reason to re is no one so ca- g the imperial sccp- d Tamaihariiaiha. h we anchored in in twelve fathoms, ollom, in comp^sry on and the king's i|j from the shore, comnany with the m both ships, Ta- ling on board the age for onr safety. le valley, admirably , and watered by a p; about two miles , there is an aque- il miles in length, if twenty feet high, irge body of water iglits back, round jrpendicular moun- he high parts of the ork is of great an- of stone, and con- much intelligence, ed all We were in ! course of the day, ivening both ships JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE, 8cc. 175 weighed with the land breeze, and continued their voyage to- wards Canton. On the 27th of Oc- tober, I left the Atahuelpa, and went on,board the Huron : captain Malthrop never having been f* China, wished to have the benefit of my experience in these seas. We had rather a tedious passage to the Ladrone islands, which we saw on the first of November. I landed, in company witii the cap- tain and supercargo, on Pagon. This island is composed of seve- ral volcanic mountains, of mode- rate height, surrounded with plains covered with cocoa nut trees, and trees of another kind, bearing a dis- tant resemblance in their foliage to the pine. The largest moun- tain has a crater of apparently half a mile diameter, which constantly emitted large volumes of •^.inoke ai. parks of fire. On the north- we. side of the island there is a smoovh bay : there is no safe an- chorage in it, on account of a v y rocky bottom. A plenty of , jcI and cocoa nuts may be easily pro- cured here, but I saw no traces of water on the island. We return- ed on board with a load of cocoa nuts in the evening. At a short distance to leeward of the island wc found the air embalmed with the agreeable odour of oranges and lemons. The 12th we sav,- the Bashee islands; the 13th, the coast of China, and fleets of fish- ing junks; the 14tli, al night, we anchored in Macao roads; the 19th the ships anchored at Whampoa, and I went up to Can- ton in the evening, where I had tl.e pleasure of meeting a num- ber of fri'-nds and acquaintance.