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Tais

ARCTIC REGIONS:

DEUTO AX AOOOVWT OF THB

o
(4

n
14

<
D

I.*

AMERICAN EXPEDITION

IN SEARCH OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN,

TTNDER THK PATROXAOB OF ^

HENRY GRINNELL, Esq.

OF NEW YORK,

Miserable they,
Who here entangled in the gathering ice,
7r»ke their last look ol the dasccndin^ sun.
^ Cowraa.

BUFFALO:

DERBY, ORTON & MULLIGAN.

AUBURN:

DERBY & MILLER.

1853.

Entered sccurding to Act of Cougress, in the year Miti, by

GEO. U. DERBY AND CO.

in tti« Clerk'i Office of tlie Diatrict Court for tlic Northern District

of N«w York.

^:^

B E A D L K A n II C) T H E R,
B r K I A I. o .

?IENUY GRINNELL, ESQ.,

THIS FIRST AMERICAN EDITION
OF

UB JORH FKANKLIN AND THE ABOriO BEOIOHI,

IS RESrECTPrLLY DEDICATED

BY nis

HUMBLE SERVANTS,

THE PUBLISHERS.

PUJiLlSllElliS' XOTICK

Thfi ex))lorations of the Arctic Rotrions, made durini!; tlio last
tlirt'(3 ccuturii's, liiivc lucii inompti'il l.y the most cuinmcutlablo
sjiirit, and liavo called into n'ijiii>itiun, and strikinudy dovelojx'd,
traits of cliaract<M- of a liiuli ordt-r. The Arctic navii^ators liavo
usually been mini of i-xtrcnie darinir, wonderful I'crsoveranco
and sublime fortitude; and a (li';*'"! of tlieir lieroic toils in tlio
path of g(joi^rai»liical dis(.overy, abounds with scicntitic facts,
and examples uf manly couran'e and exalted virtues, potential
in their nature, and hijxhly salutary in their tendency.

These considerations have impressed us with the importance
of reitublishino^ this work. lUit as the Eui^lish edition containr
but slieht reference to American enterprise and zeal in tlii
seareli for the long absent ships, under the command of Si?
John Fianklin, we have deemed it proper to add an account of
the expedition sent out under the patronage of Henry Grinnell
Esq., who is doinfj more than any other man in our country to
entitle modern merchants to the appellation given to those of
Tyre, in her best days — "the honorahh of the earth." Tho
account of the expedition which he sent out, is copied from
Lossing's article, in Harper's New Monthly Magazine. The other
additional matter will, we trust, be found pertinent, entertaining,
and valuable. The work, in its present form, must, we feel
assured, meet the apj)roval of a discriminating public

PllKFACE TO THE ENGLISH EDITION.

Tuv viesirc for information, fidt all over this country, anil, inileod, I
niAV >.li x.st s'ly tliron<,'lioiil tlu' fiviiizcd wuiM, res|)i.'ctini( tiie fate of tho
niisxiii!* cxjH'dition inulfr Sir .lolm Franklin, is v» ly >^r«'af, and j-ontinues
t<» becoMU' more and inoru intense, as tlic lapse of time lessens the probii-
liility of their rctnrn in saft-ty. The liirtje nnmher of irKMviiluais now
tni;a:,fe<l in pioseentinir tlie seaivii for tiicni in the arctic regions, and tho
de» p anxitty nianilVstrd by the frieixl* and relatives whom tliese freriii
explorers have left lirhind, has turned tiie attention of thon.s;»nds to this
inlio-ipitahle and comparatively little known iinaitur of the jjlobo, servinjr
to lend an added interest to every bu(»k descriptive of the |Kjiar seiis itnu
t9 holes.

Ainoni,' the publications which have from time to time ajipeared, tliero
Reeins to have been no popular narrative, especially treatini^ of the voy-
ai,'e> and journeys of discovery and research prosecuted in the nineteenth
century towanj the North I'ole, embracinij accounts of all the recent
public and private soiirchiii;^ expeditions after tlie lost ships, and adapted
in price to the bulk of tiie community who so eJigcily seek information.
'I'o meet this want 1 have been induced, at the solicitation of my jnb-
lisliers, to undertake the conij)ilation of tlie following; work, in whicii I
have brou^dit into one ''jw all that is really im|)ortaiit to be known by
those who desire to form a correct opinion of the present state of tho
case, and to makw themselves ac<|uainte<l with what hav really been done
in the ])roirress of discovery for a northwest passaufe, and what nioasiires
have-been adopted for the relief of our in>pris«nied seamen. Much of the
material thus condensed is to be found -tcattered throuifh a variety of
publications, hujjfc and expensive quart* \' luines of voyatjes, now scarce
or out of juint, ])ailiamentary ])a|ieis and returns, foreij^n journals, itc,
but the larj^est portion of this iniorm;ition isentirely new. In condensini^
from the voluminous Blue JJooks on this suliject that liave been published
durini,' the last few years, my chief object has been, avoiding? rash and
specidative opinion, to direct the reader's attention as much as])ossible to
matters of fact ; to place before him all that is really jtractical, iinpi>rt.iMt,
•ind interestintr, and especially to put him in possession of what is known
of the result of the recent voyai^us. and the Iat«'st position and inlcnded
plan of operations of the numerous vessels at present out on lln^ search
for the Krebus and Terror.

In puttinjj myself in communication with those best informed on the
8uV)ject of which this volume treats. I have to acknowledi^e myself
deeply indebted for much jiolite attention an<l valuable infonnation to
Lady Franklin and her niece .Miss rracroft. to John Harrow. Ks(|.. of tiie
Admiralty, to ("apt. rn'cclnr, ]'. X.. the talented edittir f)f the Nautical
Mairar.ir.e, to Coniniunder ( ". ('. Forsytii. K. X.. and to Dr. Shaw, the Sec-
retaiy of the Royal (u'tiL,naphi('al Society of London.

In conclusion, I may stale that, as the son and grandson of very old

r K i; !• A r V.

Lietitunnntx in tlio Iloyal Xavy, luivinp; ln'orj rtrij^inally in tlie ««'nica
iiiyKcir, Iwiviiifr tivf Itriitlit'is atlnnt, aixl a lar<^'<> niiiiilHT nt' olli(>t' n>iutivt!H
lioliiiii^ InT Maji'Hty's »'<)niinissiiiii, I 1'«m1 a il»'<'|i |»i<if)'s»*itiiial inten'^t in
hi'arin); tidirifTH of thu HaiVty of Sir John Kranklin an<l liis gallant coni-
rnduH, an<l uni but too liappy to aid in witistyini; tliu public deHiru for
information, by contribntin^f my mite in the pnblinition of the following
narrative of voyaf^es and traveU in the arctic rejfions, with the appeiid«-d
Hu^^fHtioiiH and (tpinioiis of ex|K!rienced otiicerN and rom|M>tent particH.
I'o the intrcitid veteran and navigator, whose name fif;uri'HHofre(piently
and 8o honorably in these iwgeH, 1 Iiojmj wc may yet bo able to JiJ)ply,
with the few slight verbal ultenititin.s 1 )iav*> made, the following lines,
which were ori^jinally addn-swd to Dr. Leichardt, who, after two years'
absence on a journey t)irout,'h the unexplortMJ reijionsof Australia, rt'tuniiKl
to Siflnoy, when all Iiojm's of his wifety had been (fiven up, and his dirj^e
had' been sun^ by ]iis friends. Tliat bold traveler is a^ain absent on u
S(!C()n(l journey in the interior of that vast continent, and has not been
heard of for more tlian two years. May He.'iven fjrani to each and all of
our care-worn traveleix by S4'a and land a speedy deliverance from the
()crils which environ them, and a safe return to their friends and native
country — a wish to which all my readers will, 1 am sure, most hearnly
re8])ond, "So mote it be ! "

"Thy fii<)tHt»>pH Imvc rt-tumfld .iifnin, tlioti wanderer of the wild,
AVIhtc Niifurt' from licr iiortlii'rii tlininc in sili'iit lioimty siiiiJed,
Piljfriiii of iiiiKlit.v wiistos, iliitroil liy liiitiiaii foot licforc,
Triunipliuiit o"cr Frost's wildi-riicKS, tliy wciiry jounioy 'ho'ot.

Thou hast hattled witli Iht* daii^'iTS of tlic icol>«>r>r and the tlood,
Anil uiiiid th«! i-ry.Htal d«'s«'rt a, I'lnujiKTi^r hast Ktood ;
Thou liatit triuniphi'd ot-r the jhtiIs <jf tht* glacier and the main,
And a uation'M sniiiiiig wclcoinv is the greetiu); liumu a(;uui.

Loni; ha<l wo inoiiru'd witli Horrowin);, and plaintive dirs^a sung,
For fatn a wild, niysturiouM vail around thy name had Hung;
And hopp'rt dci-linin); «'norjries with feeble ert'ort strove
AgaiuMt the bodin); voice of fear that liauntH the heart of love.

And Rtmior with lier Inmdred tongues, her vajfue and ))li;.''htin^' breath
Iliul whispered tidings Had and drear, dark tales of IiIoikI and death;
Till tortiu'ed fancy ceiused to ho]ie, and all despairiii); pivo
Thy name a haliow'd memory — thy hones u polar jjrave

But no! that i>roud, intrepi<l heart still held its piirpofie high,
Like Afric's martyr traveler, resolved to do or (lie ;
Like him to find a lonely frravr, in tlesert lands of flame,
Or win a bright eternity of high and gkirious fame!

Oft amid famine, dMn;:<'r. death, when meaner spirits qnail'd.
Have thy unfailing energies to cheer and soothe prevaii'd;
For well thy liope-inspiring voice could speak of perils past.
And bid each coming one ap]iear less |iainfiil than the last.

And oft e'en that brave lieart of thine has Mdden'd to desjiair.
When r)'er some wild and ice-clad scene, the sunlight shining fiur
Hath bid thy softened sjiirit feel how lonely was thy lot.
To die, thy mission nnfiiltiird, uJiknown, unwei)t, forgot.

Proud man ! in after ages the story sIl-vII be told.

Of that advent'rous voyager, the ;reneroiis. the bold.

Who. scorning hope of selfish gain. <li>daining soft repose.

Went forth to trace a pathway through unyielding ice and snows."

P. L. SIMAIOx^S.

S Barge- Yard, City.
March, 1851.

CONTENTS.

fntiodiictioii to tlic AmfiicnM IMilioti

Iiitroiliii'tnrv l{<'iimrks 25

Little l%iiiiwii "I" tti»« Arcth' Hfu'ioim— Niitire .it'Caiit. I>lii|>|iH' V(>>a>r« — Pnrry'd and
FrmiUlin* >ij«iiiti>ii^ mi ii niTthuft |i;ih»,ii;i- — .\li«.ti-:Mt i>t' Sir Joiiii Harrow 'a nurkauu
Arutic Uim-uviTV — Knirliiiiir.H lu-tflect nt' h-r iiHutir:il iicrova. .

(';it«t;iin S^ir .lulm IJ.iv--'^ V.iva:^..' in tin- Isjilu'lla and Alexander to
Iliii|,s..i,'rt l'»\y ill l«^M....' 37

NatTicH iif tlio ollW'iTK uiiil iiu'ii — Sliijis ^initnl liv tin* nntivt'H of <iri>ciiliiiiil — Almn-
(Iniu'f i.t' liiril "II this coast— (inli- I'f wiii'l— Ucil >.iinw — l^iiKiistt'i- SdiiikI — Tlie liibu-
U)Ui* (-"riiU'T iii">iiiitaiiis--.Vi;ii<"iiiii>iiiiiiiiiit — Liiri,'!' Umi- hliot— Hi-fiirii hmii.'.

VovuiTd n( I'ucliriM ainl I'lankliii in tlio Donttlu'a and Trent, to
Sjiifzl>cT<,'on, iVi'., If^lH, 4r>

NiimcM lit' <iHl( iT.t (unl cii'Miplcnii'tit, \c. — rim-il'iil ujipc'irancc i>(' jccIiit;;)* — Sliipt
arriw' ,.t Siiit/.liHru'i'U — Am liur in MaTiliIiii ll.iv — llaii.'iii'j- icftn-i-Lr-i— Iiiiiik'Iihc IIuckm
ol'I'ii iN -Daiiu'i'iMHisati lilt cif U>it'.i' Hill - AttacU (ifwalriix't -Siirpri'W'cl l>v iiiiIohUimI-
fiir \i iliir-i- I'lVniit tiM'liu:,' i<\' rccliiM's— K\ii<'ilitiiin jiiits to sm ii:,Min — I'lirtv loan
tliciii-.i'|M.ii)ti till- ii'i' -SIii|i-ii|,iiil:i;r'''l l'\ tlic |irc'«>iirr o; t'w llm'M — l)aii;;<'roiis poHitlon
lit' till- Oiips—'I'lK'.v laUf ^(■t^l■.■(• in llic main |iai'li cif ii-i'liiTtfs — Vessels put into Fair
Ilavuii to stoji li':iL.> and relit — Ucturn In. me.

Franklin's First Land Kxpedltinn, 1 > |'»-21 CI

Tarty Ii>nvo Kti^^Iaui! in tlie rritice of Wa!r< — Keneli IIikNoh'h liny factory by tlio
finl of Anu'ii'^t-l'iocti'il liy the i i\ers :m<l I lUfs to <^Mnilierhiiii| House — Arrive at Fort
CliijH'xvyan »t>er a winter ionri.ey of s.'>7 mili-s — Ki^'aire voyai.'eurs anvl k'<ii<l^:< — Mak4
the aci|nai'itan''e of Akaitelio. tlie Iixlian cliief— I'msIi mi for I'lirt Knterpriso. wliirh
is mailc their winter ri'^iilence al>rr a v^vaiji' of .'itill ini'es — ]''\|i!oriiii;e\enrsionsoar-
rieil nil iluriie.; the winter — "(iriTO St.i''!>iii'.'s, ' the Imliati lieauty — Stores nnil Ksiiui-
nianv iijti'i jirettos mrive — S<'Veiity of tin- \'. inter — Strlrriii'/s of tlie Imlians — I'arty
M't ont f >!■ the I'olar Si-a— 1> aniim- the rna't we^twaiil of Point Turiiairain — Dreadful
liaiil -hips anil siiH('ri!i„'s i-niluii'd 4in ihrir rcnirii journey, from faiiiiiie and tati^rne—
Dealh of several of thr part\— Mr llond is iniirderril hy Miiln-I the lro(|iiois. who,
for thiir mntua! .snt'e'\, is killed hy Dr. HiihardrMju— IIuii^mm' and faliiitie endured by
the p.irty — Their ultimate rolii'f

]'ruTv's First V<iya;;o in llu; lloda ami (Iripor, 1^10 20,...

• . . . . o3

y'lines of oHicers servin?, A;e. — Enter Lancaster Sound — The f'roker ninuntaina
prove to hf fiijlaciotis—l'arry discovers and enters Ke'.rcnt Inl"t — .VIso discovera and
names various islatMN. c.ipes. .ami cliamiels-Kcachi's Mch i!'e N'and— K\)ieilition ero«a
the iiifridian of 11(1- W., and 1 ecoisic eiitit'cd to the I'arli.iTiieiitary reward of XotNMI
— Drop anchor fi,r theth-t time — I.ai'.d on the i-'and— Ahandaiu-e of animals found —
An evp'orin;.' party lo .• tliemselTc ; for three dayx. hut are re<'overed and liroui;ht
back — \o--.e!i i.'ct into w int.r-'iuarfer-. - A MS. newspaper jiuhlishi'il — nitiafour jilaya
perforinccl— ()h>ervatiiry dr'-tro.vcd hy fire- Scurvy makes its appearance— Crews put
on short allowance — An exciirion of a foi ini.'ht made to examine fb* inland — Shipa net
riear of thr ice— l?uf are uniiMe to in.ake l\uther proj.'res« to tlie westward, and their
ratnrn to Entjland is d'*tP'inin''d on.

Vlll

C u N l K M 1 t*

Parry'H Scroml Vnyiij,'^ in tlie Fiiiy nn.l Hi". !a, I«ai-33 101

IliM oitliiioii fiM to u iiortlitvi'st |>aMiu;fi'— MitUi* l(>>«<>Iiiti<>ii itliiinl, nt tlii< mitritiico nf
HucIhoii H Mr, kit -Diiiiifi'i << II till' ii'f— I'.ill ill u iili IIii'Im>ii° iilln\ ('iiiii|i{iiiyit ^lli|lH, nml

fllliKrailt ViviSfl, MJtll Itlltrh fiiliilli.tt.'i fil'iiirr.lill;; t.i Knl Hivi'l -T*\ii illillli-IIM' liriir*

killi'il — |>t>Hcri|iti<<ii III' till' l'I.4iiuitiit>u\— Sut'\i'\'> iiiaili' lit' all llm lii'li'iit.iliniix iiml ruaiiti
ol'tliiH lii('Alit,\ — MliipH ilriM'ii liai'U li,v tlic I'urri'iit iiiiU itnit-ii i' — Tiiki) iiii tlii-ir wiiitcr-
i|Uarti'rH — Ai'iil rcmiit tii tlii-atiiciil uiiiUM'iiii'iit.s a^-iiu — N lionl.-i i»tul iihiiril — ilrcat
•••viTit)' ot till* uiiitiT — Sur\(>iii^' niirrutiDim ii'-iiiin'il — liitrllii{riit I'Souiiiiaiit ti'inalo
KttiirtJM vuliiiililr li,\ilr<>|fi'a|iliirul iiit'iiriii.tliiui — I'l'rilnim ii<»itiiiii iit' llif llci'la— -Her
liiiritciiliiiiH rrli'aM>~.s|ii(is |i:iK)t Hii'ir ht-i iiml wiiilir at iKliiiilii\ — 'I'lic Fiirv ainl Hfrla
Htruit exMiiiiiK'il— Iit Inr.ik.'i up— Nliip.-t tlrivt'ii ulioiit li^' thu cui'i'fiit I'l/r Uiirtjr-tivo
dii^it — At Uait h'lti" tl'*' AtLuitii' uiid luulvv tur Lti(;!itiiU.

Clavering'8 Voyngo to Siiitzborgoii nnd (Irecnlaud iti thu Griper,
1823 126

Couvoyd «iut CH|)t. Siiliiiif to rimke obKPrvatiniis—Ilfai'h Spit zIhtrimi — I'rorci'd thf np«
to HdnUiiluni ImUukIh — NnrtlivaHtiTii coast of <irf<>iilaii(l Kiirx'.vril— ('aptuiii ('lavrriti||
and a party of iiiiu't<*rii iiumi rarrv on an cxplnriii;; cNpi'ilition for a fortiiiK'lik— Mei>i
with H trilio of KMi|niiiianx — Sliip pnfn to Hfa — Make fcir tin* coast of Norway — Ani'lior
lu Drouthuiin Fiorii — <)ll^t>rv^tioll» bt-iug cuinpli'li'il, ^h\[> rctiiri:)t to EuKlat'iil.

Lyon's Voyn^o in the (irijwr, 128

Ir «ent toiiiir\^.v anil oxainin*' llii> KfraitH iiml ulioriH of Arctio Ainvrica — Arrives in
the cliaunelluiown nn !{o»''k Wciconu' — KiinmntiTM atcnittc kuIc — Niii iniiiiiii)>iit rlnn-
ger In tlie llav of (foil's Mi'rr.v— SiiiVorH fi-uni Mimilu'r fi-arfiil fttorni — Tha nhip lieiiig
quito cripiilvj, und liuviii}; IomI uU her Kni'lior!), &«:., is ubli|,'C'd tu return lioniu.

Parry'8 Third Voyago in tho Hicla and Fnrv. 1821-25 130

Names nnd nnniber of the i)tllri'ri», itc— llfcia laid on her brnndxide by the icc —
Ships reach IjincoHter Sound— Kiiti'r Hi'vtcut Inlet, and winter ut Port Howimi — Dreary
«'hiir»i»ter of the arctic! winter— Former aniUKi'incnts worn threadbare — Polar Kal
Maiir|T}t f;iit up — Explorini; parties M>iit out inluiid and aloiiK the coast— Ships ore
re!eui»ea, but iR'set by the ice, and curried by the jiack down the inlet — Fury driven ou
shore and abandon eu — Return voyaKO necessarily deterniiiied on — Scarcity of animal
food in this locality — Heclu arrives ut I'ctcrheud— Parry's opinions of the northwest
pUMKe.

Franklin's Second Land Expedition, 1825-2G 137

Names of tlie officers arronipanyinir him — Arrive in New York and ]troceeii thrnn(;ti
the Hudson's Hay Comimny's territories— Winter af l-'ort Franklin on (Ireat Hear
Lake — A pioneer party iiroceeils to c\aniiiie the state of (be I'olar Sea — lietnrn and
pass the lonjj winter— l)es<'eiid tlie Mackenzie in the spiinir— Party divide ; Franklin
and Hack jiroceedinj; to the westward, while I»r. Kicliardson and Mr. Kendul, iVc,
£)llow the ('oj)periniiie Kiver — Franklin eiicoiinterH a tierce tribe of Ksijuiniaux ut the
sea — After u month's survey to tlie eastward. I''i'anklin and bis |iarty retrace their steps
— Find Uichardson and Kendal bud returnd bet'oie tbeiii. alU-r reaching' and e.xplor-
Inir Dolphin und I'nioii Strait — .Xiiotber winter *peiit at Fort Franklin — Intensity of
the cold — I.arj:e collection of olijects of natural history iiiadu by Mr. Druinmond—
Fraukliu's 8truj,'R;!e between ulfectiou and duty— Party return to En>,'land.

Captain Beechey's Vovago to Beliring'.s Strait in the I31o.ssom,
1825-26 '. 140

Anchors off Petropaulowski— Receives intellij^ence of Parry's s.ife return— Interview
with the natives — Correct liydro;i;raphical descripticns (jiven by the Ksiiuimau.T —
Ship • boat pushes on to the eastward as far as Point Harrow, to communicate with
Franklin — Crew in dantjcr from the natives— t)bli;red to return to their shijis — The
Blossom proceeds to the I'acitlc, to replenish her provisions— Returns to Kot/cbue
Sound in the stimmer — Shii> prounds on a saiid-banK, but is jrot otf— Hoat sent out to
learn tidin^cs of Franklin, is wreclvcd- Crew come into collision with hostile nativas,
and are wounded; picked up by the ship- Dispatches left for FronkJin, and the s]i-9
rvturus to England.

TON I i; SI a.

I {car

ill id

ikliit

."ti-.,

the

ttvpa

jlf)r-

iid-

140

I'arry'ji Fnunh or I'ulur \ ..mi^'i- in ll»u lUvIa, \(*)i' 144

PUiii uiiil hiiu'kri'ttiiiiiH III' S<'iirfiil<\, lli'Kuti>,v iiml KraiiUliik fur trntfliiiK In iilf(l({«M
over till' ill* — Nutticn of tlo* oilii ith <-iii|>l<i_vtii|— Miip ciiiluirkit ri'iii'licr on the Norniiy
I'UMt — Lk|i«'rl<'nrt'ii ii IriMni'ii'lHiiit ti.klc — llrM't li,v iri> I'ur it iiiuutli — AiichnrH at >i<lt4-
Ikt^'Ii- >ti '1/<'-Im>iiU |iir|<un'i| lor the id' jourui'* - |)« m ri|itiiiii o|' tlifin— Niitht
turtii'il iiili> ila>-Mntv |iroi.'r('iiH— (><'( n|iatliiiiii of tin- |.art; — I.<mm< Kniiiiiil hy tlia
tiiiitlm.irit ilnit of ihi* he — lii'ur uliot ■ -Notuiii il'iiiiiiiuU mtii— Itciirh niirthiTiiiiioitt
kiioxMi htiiil -Till' l>U't iiaiiii'il nilrr Hum- Ki'tiini to ihu i>hi|i— ru'r,>'ii hiiliiM-tjui-nt
•Un't;|'^Iil>llH oil ilitH iiiimIc III tru>i-liii){— i^ir John lliirrow h ('oiiiiii<>ni» thcrvuii— Ojtiu-
loiia uf .thit |i«'rilous ice journey — UtivU-M of rurr^'fc lirLlii' KtTVii'i'it.

.ir.5

Captain Joliii IIojw'h Stroud Voynj^o in tlm Victory, 18iJI)-33

K.iHs si'i'Uh nttii ill! ciiiiilii^iiu'iit from thi- Ailiniruliy on unotlitT :ir<tio voya^fo — ia re-
f>i'^i| — Fiiiiili* m«' riinii-<hr<l li\ Mr. Kflix llootli— 'I'Ih' \ ictory Mtvaiiu-r (mrchuNt'd—
F.ii'.cit^i'N hi» iii'|'hi'», <''>iii<iiunilrr .laiiii'x Kim:', itx hi'< i<i'i'iiiii| in riiinniiuiil — Liat of
uthiT I'fhii'rn — >iii|i I'lii iiinitfrs n kaU-, iin<l i< olili;ri'c| t'> |iiil into lloUtt'inluTH to relit
— I'rorc.'il on tlinr \ii\ii).'<' — I'liitcr l.anriu<ti'r ^uniul iinil IdKi'iit Inh't — Itruch Kury
lie.ii h — l''iiiil iiliiiiiilaiii'c of Klmcn llii'ic, ami prcMTVctl uifut in excellent cullihtiiin—
Ufjplciii.'.h tlii-ir ^Il'cl^ — rriMi'cil iluwn the Inlet —I'eriU of the ice — Vemtel it'curediii
Felix llarhur I'mt the winlfr — KHjnunaux viiit the Hhi|i — Fnrni;<h very <'orrect aketcliea
of the ciia^t— '^^iinni.iiiiliT .laincH Uhhm tnakert many uxciirNioriH iiilniid and alonK tbo
liavH and inleU — KxfilureH Khmi'h .Strait, and |in-'lien mi to Kin)( Williani'H l^iid— i>ilU-
I'Uliy of i|i>tinkMiii«hiiJu' land frnni ^eu — Ke.n Iu'm I'oint Virti'ry unil tiirim lutck — iiM{>
p't.H clear of the ice. at^i'r ele\eii iiinnth-'' ini)>riHoninent, luit in a week iit n^ain fro/.en
in, and (lie li.irt.\ are ilel. lined duriii.: annthei he\ere winter— Further <hM'o\erioa niudc,
and ('diiiiii iiider Ko^n plant.'* the Hritish tl.u' on Hie north niau'nelic |iole— In An^UHt,
ls:t|, the >lil|i is warjied ont, and inakeN s^iil. I>iit alter leatiii;,' alioiit for a month, ia
a^^kiii fi'ii/eii in; and rather than K|M'nd u fnnrth winler, there heiii); no proMjiect uf
rvlea.siii;: the Khi|i, aIic is ahundiuied, and the crivv ni.ike fur Knry Heach — I'roviHioiia
I liii.tt.' taken on with };reat lalior — I'.irlv ere,! a canva.s hilt, which they name Soin-

ael

^••i*« i«»i'XF» ai>i«^> 11111 iai (III* (1.-1 iiiiit viiiixai kdi^i i«t«iai>k'i'a«a

crset Mouse— 111 a ni>iiilh, the hoal.s hein^ |iri'|'aii'd for the \oyap>, the party emhark,
and reach the mmith of thi' iiilel -lt.irr<'W .s istralt is found one compact iiia».s of ico— •
They are ohlij;ed t" tall hack uii the >tores at I'nry lleach t<l^pend their fourth winter—
I'Ltced on slmrt allowance— In the Hpriic/ they ui;ain emhurk in their houtHUiid miccee^
in rcachini; Uinciu-ter .Snnnd — Kail in with wlialeri* — Are received on hoard the Isuhello,
Cu|>lain Kowi's old hhip — .Arrive home— rnidic rejuicingh for tla'ir aafet^'— UuwurUA
granted — Itetume of (.'aptaiii Juhu Koiii>'it avrvii'i's.

I'aidain Hack's Land Joiuii(>y in warcli of Kos.s, 1S33-31 168

Attentliin called to the missin({ exnedition hy Dr. Kichardson — I'luna of relief huj{-
(jesled — I'nhlic meeting: held to con.siiler the l.ci-t nieasure.H — .\ni|>le I'lindH raised — Cnpt.
Hack Milnnteers -l>'a\eM Kn^'land with Dr. Kitiir— \ lyau'eiirMind )rnidex, \c., en)fHXvd
ill Canada — Party pu^h tliron;;li the northwest cuuritry — Dreadful HUtleriiiKa fr<»iu
liiKect pest-t — Ueach Kurt Kcfiiilntion, on Ureal Slave Ijike— .Mutley description of the
traxelers and their »'ncanipnicnt — .\rraiivrenientr< are completed, and tlie journey in
tfiarch iif the (iieaf l''i>h Kiver coiiiiiienced — l''ri;;htfnl nature of the jirecipieea, rap-
id.H, falls, ravines. \r. — Meet with nld aciinaint.inces — <)liliL.'id to return to their winter
'piarteis— Dreadful sulleriiiirH ot the Indiaii.-i— Famine and intensi' cold — Nohle conduct
of .Xkaitcho, the Indian chief — News received of Capt.un Koss's ..afe return to EliKliiiid
— Fiaiiklin's faithl'ul Ks.jMiiiiaiu interpreter, .Ait^ustiis, end'avorin;; to joii' ttack, in
fro/en to death — .\ fre.sh journey tovvanl the sea is resoived on -riovisioiiR for threa
months taken — Indian encampment -(Jreen ."»tockini:s, the heanfy — Interview with the
< liief. .Ak.titi'ho — .\iiliioiis and perilou.s pro'j:ress tow. ml Ihu >i'a— I'illeriu;; propensi-
ties of the Indians —.Meet with a larjjL' fi iendly trilic of i;s,(uiiiian\ — Keach the wa,
and proceeii aloiiK the co.i^t to the eastward, niiahle to nrriM' at the Point 'ruriia^ain
jf Franklin- I'l ivations of the party mi their return Journey — Dilliculties finroimtercd
in re■ascendin^r the river— Keach Fort Kcliance aftrr four montlis' ahseiicc— 1'a.sH the
winter there — Capf-i^n Hack arii>es in Flntrland in Septenilier, after un ahseuce of
two ,\earK and a half— Dr. King folluwii him in tlic lludions Bay spring shipa.

Back's Voyage in tliu IVrror up Iliulsoir.s Strait, 183G 186

Ship arrives at S.ilishury Island— Proceeds up Frozen Strait— I:i blocked up hy the
iep. and driven alioiit ii(iwcrles.s for more than six months — Cast on Iior heumends
for three da>s— F'roin the crijiplnd .state of the ship and the insunnountuhlcdidicultieB
if the navication, the return to England ia determined on— Summury t»f Captain
Uuok'e ajsfi^. sfinccs.

CONTENTS

Messra. Dea?e and Simpson's Discoveries on the coast of Arctic
America, 1836-39 187

Descend the Mackenzie to the sea — Survey tlio western part of tlie shores of North
America from Return Reef to Cai)e Harrow— Discuvfr two new rivers, tlie tlarry
and Colvilie — After reaciiiiij; Klson IJay, return to winter at Fort Contideiice, on Ureat
Bear Lake — Survey resumed in tiiu ensuing spiiiii,' — Daiifreroiis rapids on the O.pper-
uiine river — Encamp at its moutli — Copper ore found here — Victoria Land discovered
and 1 10 miles of new coast traced — lii--ascciit of tlie (Vijipermine ciiinmeiiced — HoatM
abandoned, and tlie Barren grounds traversed on focjt — Spend anotlier winter at Fort
Confidence — Tlie followinj? season a tiiird voyajro comnieni'ed— Richardson's River
•xauiined — Coronation Gulf fcui d clear of ice — Coast survey to the eastward prose-
cuted — Simpson's Strait disco.cijd— Back's Hstuary reached — Deposit of ]iroTisiona
made by Back five years previous, found — Alierdoen Island, the extreme point reached
—Parts of co.asts of Boothia ami Victoria Land traced — One of the boats abandoned-
Descent of Mio Cojjper'niue, and safe arrival at l''ort Coiilidciice.

Dr. John Rae's Land Expedition, 1 84(5-47 192

Hudson's Bay Company disiiatch R:ie and a j)arty of thirteen men to complete the
Burvey between Dease and Sinipson's furthest, JUid tlio Fury ana Ilecla Strait — Expe-
dition leaves Fort Churchill — Reaches Waj;-er River — Boats taken across Rae's Isthmus
— Winter re8i<leiice constructed — Short commons— West shore of Melville Peninsula,
&c., examined — Party return to their encampmeut, and proceed to Fort Cburclull —
Gratuity of X'iUV awurdid to Dr. Kae.

Captaia Sir John Frankliu's Last Expedition in tlie Erebus and
Terror, 1845-51 19G

Probability of the safety of the expedition — Montoromery's lines on ice-imprisoned
vessels — Lady Frankliu's devotion and enthusiasm — Verses — Her appeal to the north —
Sir E. Parry's opinion — Outfit and dispatch of Franklin's exjiedition — Names of the
officers employed — Outline of Franklin's services — Notices of the services of other of
the officers — Soarchin>; expeditions sent out in 18 IH — UilVerent volnuteers offer — Ab-
tence of intelligence of Franklin — His latest dispatches and letters — Copper cylinders
— Franklin's views and intentions — Letters of Captain Fit/james — Get; -ral opinions of
the most exp«riencod arctic ofiicers as to Franklin's safety — Oll'er of services and sug-
gestions by Dr. Kin;^ — Opinions of Captains Parry and James Ross th'M«>on — Consultrt-
tdon of officers at tlia Admiralty — Report of the hydr(i,;,'r»pher — AiUicc tendered by
those consulted — Views of Mr. Snow and Mr. McLean — Public and ])r:vate rewards
offered for discovery and assisfcmce to be rendered — Second report of Admiral Beaufort
to the Lords Coramissioners of the Admiralty — Various i)rivate ami oliii'ial letters and
dispatchas, pointiaf;^ out, or commenting on plans and modes of lelief— Abundance of
animal food found in the arctic rejjious — A ballad of Sir John Franklin.

The GoTernnaent and private Searching Expeditions 281

List of the vessels and commanders, &c., now employed on the search in the arctio
TSg^ons — Notices of those returned home.

Voyage of the Entorprise and Inve.stigator under Captains Sir J. C.
Rosa and E. J. Bird, 1848-49 281

Names of the officers employed in this expedition — Ships arrive at Uppemavick—
Proceed on their voyasje— Force a passage tliroujrk the ice— Enter Barrow's Strait-
After being driven about in the pack, take shelter for the winter in the harbor of Port
Leopold — Surveying trips carried on down the inlet, aud round the northern and
western shores of Boothia — Foxes trapped .and liberated with copper collars on — Furj
open water — Beset by the loose pack, and the temperatire falling, the wliole body of
ice is formed into one solid mass, and the aliips are drifted with the field into Bajfin'i
Bay— The return to England determined on— Outline of Sir James Ross's arduous
services in the polar regions.

Voyage of the transport, North Star, 1849 S'lO

Names of th« officers of the ship— Official dispatch from ths Commander- *»Ip

C O N T E N T S .

281

ck—
ait-
Port
and
?iiry
Iv of
Itfin'i
iioua

p)0
IScilp

beset in iiii if J^^•l.l in thf northern j.art «f Hiirtiii's I?;iy— Prifte<l with it for glxty-two
days — Wiiiti-ik in \V».l<t«-iihi>iiiiP Snuii'i— l)e;ii t!i of aniinals tlicrc — Sliip pets I'lcar of
ii'i,' ami makes tor f ;inr:i.-t<-r ^>ouIKl— '1 In- I.ailv KiaiiKlin and Kt-lix me siioken with —
Beiii)j iircvtMiti rl hy 'ill- i.e troni ri-a« liinir 1 oi t H,.\mii or I'ort Neill, the ]>rovisi(>nt
tikeii out I'V til.' Nort:> Stir are Uii'leil at Na\v Hoard hilct— Spi aks the I'riiiee A!l)*rt
— Keceiic> ili>|iat> hes lor CngLui:d — Keturiis home — Coiiiinaiider Suuiulera appointed
to Malta Dotk-yanl.

Vovntje of tlio Plover, and I?<i.it Expoilitidiis under Commander
TuUen, l^ H-f)! 307

Purport of iM>trurtioii.s i-'>iied from the A(hiiiialty — Sliij> ai riM'S in Hi'lirii vr's Strait

-Discovers nrw land and i>iaiid> to the north of the Strait— AViirers in Kot/i'l)uo

fioniid — Lieutenant I'liIIen anil | arty j'Toi < <'d in I (iat> aioii^; the loa.-t to (lie Mai kenzie

Kiver — No tidinirn aicancd of Kianklin"r..-lii|is — Lfttcr tioiii l.itiit. H' opcr — Latest otti-

ciid dispjit'-li from Commander Pulien — His iiitei:tion.-.— Sir John liichurdsou'ii iidvice.

Voyasjo of the Lady Franklin and Soj)liia, ptnchascd government
ships, under the command of Mr. P<Miiiy 312

Nature of the instructions •i\\fu — Printinu' lVes< sny.plied — Shii'S sail and reach
WoUtenhnlmo Sound — Prevenfed hy the ice from evaminiiiLT Jones' Sound — Keach
Wellington Channel, and are left tliere hy the Priin'e Alhert.

Voyaire of the Resolute and A^istance, under comiiiatid of Captain
Austin, with tln'ir steaiu tendi-rs, Pioneer and Intrepid, l^T)!)-.")! . . .313

Ships purchased and are renamed hy tlie jrovernment — Ollicers en;plf.> i d — Itistnu-
tii>ni> sriven to »i:'arch Wellinjrton ('hannt-l. and pn?.h on to Melville IsIiiMl- • Mticial
dispatch ft-om Captaiu Oumumey — MS. newspaper started on liourd the A:siitunce—
E.vtracts therefrom.

Vovacre of Captain Sir Juliu Ross iu tlio Felix iirivato s<lnioner
1850-1 319

Ls fitted out hy the Hud:-on"s Ray Comiiany .and ]iri\ate suhscriiitiou — Arrives at
^Vhal^•ti^h l.-Iand-i. and overtakes th" Advance ainl IJcxjI'ite — I'l'ocecils in company —
EsiiuiniauT reports of tlie destruction of Franklin's ships, and murder of the cre*^—
Proved hy investi;.';;tion to he devoid of ll>undati(iu— Letter of feir John Iloss to tho
Secretary ot' the Ailmiralty.

American Gf)veniment Searchinc; Kxpedition in the L'nited States
ships Advance and Rescue, under the command of Lieutenant Do
Have n, 1 ^50-5 1 323

Lady Franklin's appeal to the Aniericaii nation — Mr. Clayton's reply — Second letter
of I.ady Franklin to the Pre.-i.lent— Sii'.';H->tions of Lieutenant S. <)^l'urn, K. N.— De-
bate in Congress — Kesolntions a.'recd to — Munificence of Mr. H. (irinnell— Ships fitted
out and dispatched — Names of oUicers employed— Dispatches from the coniniander.

Remarkable Voya2;e of the private ship Prince AlV>ert, under the
cornmaiul of Captain Forrivth, R. N., to Regent Iidet and back,
1850 .' 343

Fitted out by Lady Franklin and by private suhseription — Reasons for the expedition
— Officers .-xad crew — Discover traces of Franklin — Fall in with other ships — Visita
Regent Inlet — Is forced to return homo — Heiuarks on this voyajre — Position of tb«
y«8sel£ of the squadrou— Liues to th« expeditious iii seartli of Sir John tVauklin

^ — '

INTRODUCTION.

^^f

The interest aroused both in this country and
Europe, in regard to Sir John Franklin and his
associates, has in no degree diniinislied by the fail-
ure of the various Exploring Expeditions, to ascertain
the fate of the great navigator. His well known
intrepidity, his great experience and knowledge of
the Arctic regions, the abundant supplies with which
he was furnished, the various casualties which may
have excluded liim from the observation of subse-
quent navigators, and above all, the traces which
have been discovered of him, have kept alive hopes,
which, under other circumstances, in the long lapse
of time would have been utterly extinguished. The

XIV

I NT liU DUCT lux.

heroic woman, whose devotion to her gallant huit*ind
has made her name a household word in two conti-
nents, whose appeals in his behalf have touched all
hearts, and filled all eyes with teai*s, whose conduct
has added another illustration of conjugal affection,
of indomitable perseverance and courage, to the loi]i«f
list of examples of woman's faith and woman's forti-
tude, the wife of the lost Franklin still hopes. 8ho
cannot believe that the sea has swallowed the gallant
company under the guidance of her husband, or that
the frosts of the Pole have benumbed their energies;
no mounds of snow and ice are seen by her, as
marking the place where they await the voice of the
Archangel, and the trump of God ; before the vision
of her mind, the frost-bound voyagers still appear,
watching for some friendly sail in the open channels
of the frozen seas, still husbanding their resources,
still hoping against hope. She beholds them man-
fully struggling with the difficulties of their position,
seeking, during the short summer of the high latitudes,
an avenue of escape, and engaged in the winter in
protecting themselves from the cold, by walls of
snow, and renewing their clothing with the spoils
of the shaggy monarch of those solitudes, the polai
bear, whose capture stimulates their energies and

INTIIODVCTIOX.

m
of

Lai
nd

invigorates their powers. While such a hope is strung
in tlie soul of this noble woman, it will live in the
hearts of all Christendom until the lost are restored
to home and Jdndred, or their graves are found, and
their forms, untouched by decay, recognized by the
hardv mariners wlio brave the dauijers of an Arctic
Sea. Wiio can tell if tliis lost company have not
broken through into that open Ocean which is said
to si)read out beyond the barrier of ice, and found
there a new world from which they cannot return to
relate the story of tlieir marvelous voyaged Who
knows if they are not now re^wsing upon some island
of that unknown Sea, where a modified climate, and
a fertile soil furnish all the necessaries of life, or
are vainly coasting along that wall of ice through
which they unexpectedly entered, and from which
tlioy hope to escape by some opening like that in
which they came ? Perhaps, curiosity overcoming love
of home and kindred, they liave explored or are
now exjiloring the unknown world upon which they
have been permitted to enter, mapping its islands
and bays, or passing on to the pole itself, full of
high thoughts of the undying fame that will reward
their toils, when the story of their return and their
discoveries shall astonish the world, as when the

.<vi

INTKODUCTION.

daring Genoese brought back to Spain and Europ..
the i)roofs of the existence of the continent which
sh(juld have borne his name.

The discovery of a northwest passage to the Indies,
was the first object of the daring navigators who
explored the northern seas ; the pursuit of the whale
lias since led a multitude of vessels among the ice-
bergs and ice-fields of the frozen ocean. Any furthei
expenditure of treasure, or hazard of life for the
former purpose is imcalled for — a mere waste of ma
terial and a tempting of providence. Enough is
known to settle the question that any passage forced
through those seas to Asia, would be too hazardous
and too uncertain to render it of the least com-
mercial advantage. The path to China marked out
by nature, or rather by the God of nature, is by the
isthmus which separates North and South America,
and all ideas of an available northwest passage are
simply Utopian. For the perfecting of the geography
of the earth, for the purpose of ascertaining whethei
an open ocean, and a modified climate, and a pro-
ductive soil are to be found beyond the fields of ice,
may be worthy the efforts of civilized nations, yet it
might be questioned whether the hardships of the
navigation, and the risk of life in those remote

.J5^

1 N T IJ O D U C T 1 O N .

xvn

pro-
ice.

solitudes, would not justify an abandonment of a re-
gion nruarded by such awful barriers, which could only
be pasr^ed occasionally in the lapse of years. If it
should appear, that a land like the garden of Eden
lay l)oyond the domain of frost, how could it bo
made practically accessible, or used for the benefit
of mankind ? Would it not fjrever remain like that
hidden city in the desert, which, according to the
eastern fable, is concealed from all passers by, and
only some favored traveler is perhaps once in a
century permitted to gaze upon its deserted streets
and behold its towers and palaces; or like the I6st
Atlantis, would it not be discovered only to disap
pear forever?

For the rescue of the long lost company of Sir
fohn Franklin, or for the purpose of ascertaining
heir fate, too much can hardlv be done. In sudi
an enterprise, the noblest sympathies of our nature
cannot ftiil to be enlisted, and higher and more
worthy of remembrance than the conflict of arms, or
the rivalry of the nations in their fabrics at the
recent great fair of the world in the modern Baby-
lop, Lias been the competition between England and
the United States, in the voyages of discovery tor
the great arctic navigator, and his companions. In

f f

will

I N T 15 <»1) Ll TI ON .

pucli a contest the bonds of national brutlicrliood aro
stR'ngthoned, the fViendsliip of tlie two great brandies
of tlie Anglo-Saxon race, who, descended from the
same ancestry and speaking tlie same tongue, Iiavo
been intrnsted by the divine providence with the
guardianship of civil and religions freedom, is
cemented and made to soar above the petty rivalries,
and the i)etty provocations, which have heretofore so
often disturbed the <;ood nnderstandin*]: which ou«jht
ever to prevail between those who are brethren in
l)lood, wdio have a common ancestry, a common lan-
guage, and a common faith. Despotism like a dark
cloud is gathering over Europe ; France, after numer-
ous revolntions, and a multitnde of grandiloquent
protestations for freedom, has tamely yielded to a
military dictatorship more degrading than the rnle
of her most despotic monarchs, and nothing marks
her incapacity for liberty, her profound social cor-
ruption and the utter loss even of the heroic element
tliat characterized her in the worst days of the Bour-
bon dynasty, than the character of the man who
has seized the reins of government. The shadow, or
rather the mockery of a great name, with no rejui-
tation as a soldier, with no ability as a statesman,
the dissolute and degenerate nephew of the gro**-

I N r It O 1) U C T I « > N .

Warrior, holds France under a rule more disgi-aceful
to lier than that of Louis XV., of whose vices he is
an apt imitator. Under such circumstances, the con-
tinued friendship of Great J>ritain and the United
States, is essential to tiie liighest interests of our
common humanity. Tugetlier they may dvA'y the
world in arms, and hlockade tlie ports of all the des-
potic powers on the globe, and every generous con-
cert of action, evevy noble rivalry like tluit wliich sent
our ships in search for the lost Fi'anklin, is an omen
of good to the world, and a pledge that despotism is
not to shroud the nations in darkness, sui)erstition,
and ignorance. The vast conspiracy which is now
organizing from St. Petersburg to Paris, and from
the Baltic to the Caspian, against a free jiress, free
government and free speech, can only be defeated
by the constant friendship and united resistance of
the Anglo-Saxon race on both continents.

It is not a little remarkable that the American
expedition should have originated in private benev-
olence, and that to the enlightened liberality of a
single individual, the country owes an enterprise
which reflects so much credit upon our re])ublic.
We read in the Scriptures of ancient nations and
cities " whose mcrcluints were princes : " if this

1 M T ii U D L C I I (J N .

expression in the Bible implies what it dues in mod
era purliiuce, we may congratulate ourselves tiiat we
possess a similar description of citizens — merchants
who are princes, not in the magnificence which
apes the i)omp of royalty, but in the largo and
liberal spirit that exhibits itself in acts of generosity
and munilicence, which may be termed princely in
respect to the grandeur of their conception, and th©
efficiency of their execution.

The true genius and character of a people may be
tested by the examples of individuals, no less than
by their institutions and laws. The illustrious citi-
zens of the ancient republics are the memorials and
proofs of their national greatness. As the Roman
mother said of her children, " these are my jewels,"
60 the Commonwealth may say of her distinguished
sons, for they are the glory and the crown of the
State. The name of Henry Grinnell, in connection
with the expedition in search of Franldin, will
survive all the marble and granite of the city of
his residence. He might say with truth with the

Latin Poet,

" Exegi monumentiim sere perennius."

"Whatever is done for truth or for humanity, sur-
vives in the remembrance of all ages ; the star o1

I NT KOH I- CTION

\.\l

ii the

[y oi

a Tfoward culminntoa al)ovo those of all the heroes
aii<l eonqucrcrs who liave filled the earth witli vio-
lence, and the merchant prince who Rent his ships
into the Arctic Seas, to search for the lost of
another nation and people, is entitled to the plau-
dits of his country and his race.

Nor slioiild tiio commander, ofHcers, and seamen
)f tlie American expedition be forujotten l)y the ^•"»v-
ornnient, or their countrymen. In the dangerous
Bervice in wliich they voluntarily engaged, they ex-
hiljited the courage and hardihood, the coolness and
foivthoui'ht which have characterized the hriiiclitest
examples in our naval history. The narrative of
their hazardous voyage, so far as it has been made
public, reflects the highest credit upon all concerned,
and has added new luster to the annals of American
•ieamanship.

The naval service is the right arm of the Republic;
no power on earth can assail us while the ocean is
eovered with our ships. Great Britain came out of
the contest with Napoleon and the continent witli
safety and success, only because she acquired and
kept the dominion of the sea ; it is her naval supe-
riority, which now delays the Autocrat of the North
in his contemplated subjugation of Europe, ai»»^

Wll

1 N I li < » r» r f I I (.» N .

prevents liis iiuiiu'«liate oecnpation <*[' (\»ii>ta!itiiniji!e
ftH tlio seat of liis new Kuipire. Nor is it merely tho
number ut* meu-ol-war wliicli arc kcjit alio. it, tliat
creates the naval superiority of a country, but that
extensive conmierce which constitutes a mirserv of
seamen, whose numbers, knowledge, and courage
may be nuidc available in the hour of danger. In
no respect have our countrymen so uniformly dis-
tinguished themselves, as in tiieir naval exploits, no-
where have they been so successful, as on tiie «m can,
and the safety of the country is more connected with
tiiis department of defense than any other. "VVhile
i^uch men as Coujmander De JIaven, (xritrith, and
such crews can be muotered from the naval service
(•f the United States, our shores are safe from foreign
invasion, and our country from all assaults save those
of the demon of domestic discord ; if we perish, it
will be suicidally.

While every christian and philanthropist will earn-
estly desire and pray for the day when men shall
learn war no more, when '" the sword shall be beatet
into a plowshare, and the spear into a pruning
hook," it is the height of folly to presume that anj
euch period ie at hand — to blind our eyes to the evi-
dent toVpjv! of an approaching contest which is to

•«;'

I NT Kn I» r (; r I () N.

X X M I

^liako tl'f^ earth, and tnnu wliich wo can only cscnpo
scathlcs'S l)y a posithm and a fnro' uliicli will coiii-
]t('l rosjart lV»i' our ri^dit-, and protect •iir luiilrality,

it" it l)e |>ossil»li' l.» inaiTitain tins jiosilitMi \\\ a cnii-
test wa^od tor the destruction nt" civil and ri'lii^ious
liberty. The narrative of the* American expedition
cannot fail to enli>t the sympathies of the country
more earne>tlv in behalf of those

"Whose iii.'ircli is on the inouiitain wave,

loso Homo IS en uio <ic('!>

and kindle generous emotions in all hearts. "Wo
hope it may find a place in every habitation
throuiihout the length and breadth of ouJ extended

country.

(

^ ■ -'iTriMi

^■i^uiapR:

THE PROGRESS

ARCTIC DISCOVERY

IN THE

NINETEENTH CENTURY.

If we examine a map of Northern, or Arctic, Amer-
ica, showino; what was known of the countries around
the North Pole in the commencement of the present
century, we shall find that all within the Arctic circle
was a complete blank. Mr. Hearne had, indeed, seen
the Arctic Sea in the year 1771 ; and Mr. Mackenzie had
traced the river which now bears his name to its junc-
tion with the sea ; but not a single line of the coast
from Icy Cape to Baffin's Bay was known. The east-
ern and western shores of Greenland, to about 75° lat-
itude, were tolerably well defined, fi'om the visits of
whalinc; vessels; Hud'^on's Bay and Strait were par-
tially known; but Baffin's Bay, according to the state-
ment of Mr. Baffin, in 1616, was bounded by land on
the west, running parallel with the 90th meridian of
longitude, or across what is now known to us as Bar-
row's Strait, and probably this relation led to the sub-
sequently formed hasty opinion of Captain Sir John
Ross, as to his visionary Croker Mountains, of whiclt
I shall have occasion to speak hereafter.

As early as the year 1527, the idea of a passage to
the East Indies by the North Pole was suggested by a

2i>

i'i;'»Gi:i-..ss <»[■' Aiiciiu iu>t uvi;uY

Bristol mcrcli.iiit to ITcnry YTII., Liit no voyfipjc scoins
to have been undertaken for tlie purpose ofnaviii^ating
the Polar seas, till the commencomont of the folluwin^
century, when an expedition was iitted out at the ex-
pense of certain merchants of London. To this attein])t
several others succeeded at diiferent period?!, and all
of them were projected and carried into execution by
private individuals. The adventurers did not indeed
accomplish the object they exclusively sought, that of
reaching India by a nearer route than doubling the
Oape of Good Hope, but though they failed in that
respect, the fortitude, perseverance, and skill which
they manifested, exhibited the most irrefragable proof;^
of the early existence of that superiority in naval af-
fairs, which has elevated tliis country to her present
eminence among the nations of Europe.

At length, after the la})so of above a cer.t;iry iMid a
half, this interesting question became an object of
.Uoyal patronage, and the expedition which was com-
manded by Captain Phipps (afterward Lord ^lulgravc,)
in 1773, was iitted out at the charge of Government.
The first proposer of this voyage was the Hon. Daine:i
Barrington, F. R. S., who, with indefatigable assiduity,
began to collect every fact tending to establish the
practicability of circumnavigating the Pole, and as ho
accumulated his materials, he read them to the Eoyal
Society, who, in consequence of these representations,
made that application to Lord Sandwich, then First
Lord of the Admiraltj'-, which led to the appointmeuo
of this first ofiicial voyage. Captain Phipps, however,
found it impossible to penetrate the wall of ice which
extended for many degrees between the latitude of 80'^
and 81°, to the north of Spitzbergen. Ilis vessels were
the E-acehorse and Carcass ; Captain Lutwklge being
his second in command, in the latter vessel, and hav-
ing with him, then a mere boy, Kelson, the future
hero of England.

From the year 1648, when the famous Russian navi-
":ator, Scnor Deshnew, penetrated from the river
Kolyma through the Polar into the Pacific Ocean, the

«■&

INTliuDLC'lIOX.

yn^c scoins
navii]::ating
e lolluwinff
: at the ex-
his.itteini)t.
)di^, niul Jill
LecutioTi by
not indeed
!;]it, that of
Hibliiig tlio
led in tliat
slvill ^vl^cl\
;aljlc proor:^
n naval af-
her present

]t\]vy rnd !i

1 ohjeet ut'

h was coni-

^[nlgravc,)

overnnient.

on. Daine:i

c assiduity,

tablish the

, and as ho

the Royal

sentations,

then First

pointmenb

, however,

I' ice which

Itiide of 80^

ssels were

klge being

, and hav-

the futuro

;sian navi-
the river
>cean, the

Kir

Ri:5>ians liave been as arduous in tli(;ii'atiein|>ts todis-
cnvei* a northea-t pas^a^A'c to the inu'tji oi" Ca[)e iSiicl-
atskoi, a> tlie Kiii!;li6h iiavc bet'U to sail to tiie north-
west <tt' tiie Anu'i'ican coiirineiir, tli!MUi:li IJallin's Day
and l^aiica-ter Sound. On the side ot' the Pacilic,
niuny ellbrts, liave, within the last century, been made
to further this object. Jn 1741, the celebrated Captain
IJehrini^ (li>covered the straits which bear Ids name, as
we ai'c inlbnned by ^Muller, the chronicler ot* Uu-sian
di-coveries, aiul several subseipient comniandei's of
that natio!! seconded his endeavoi's to pcneti-ate from
the American continent to the northeast. . From the
jxM'iod when Deshnew sailed on his e.\})edition, to riie
vear ITdt, when Admii'al Tchitschaii-of an indelatin'a-
l)le and active <,>{iicer, endeavored to force a passage
round S|)itzl)ergen, (winch, altliough he attempted witli
a resolution and skill which would fill to the lot of
few, he was unable to ell'ect,) and thence to the ])resent
limes, including the arduous elforts of Captain Billing:-!
and \"aiicouvei', and the more recent one fd" ?.r. V^on
Wrangell, the Russians have been imtiring in their at-
tempts to discover ;i passage eastwai'd, to the north
of Ca])e Taimurand Cape Shelatskoi. And certainly,
if skill, ])erseverance, and courage, could have opened
this passage, it would have l)een accomplished.

Soon after the general peace of Eur')])e, M'hen war'^s
alarms had given way to the high pursuits of bclence,
the government recommenced the long-suspended
work of prosecuting discoveries within the Arctic circle.

An expedition was dispatched under the command
of Sir John Ross, in order to explore the scene of the
former labors of Frobisher and Baffin. Still haunted
with the golden dreams of a northwest passage, which
Barrington and Beaufoy had in the last age so enthu-
siasticallv advocated, oi;'- liautieal adventurers bv no
means relinquished the I - :g-cheris!u d chimera.

It must be admitte 1. 'lowever, ''^ t^ the testimony of
Parry and Franklin .u-. r»;- ; ' , ^ the other side
of the question. Botii tliese oi^.^^.'s, v\ iiose researches
in the cause of scientific discovery entitle thovi 'Q.,>VGi7

^C7

rBwoia:s3 of aklttc iusluvkuv

Li^li reapect, have declared it as their opinion tliut
such a passap:e does not exist to the north of the Totli
de!L,n*ee of latitude.

Captain Parry, in the conchidinj::: remarks of his first
vovagie, (rol. ii/p. 241,) say? — '' Of the existence of a
norihwest passage to the Pacific, it is now i^carcely
possible to doubt, and from the success whicli attended
our efforts in 1810, after passing througii Sir James
Lancaster's Sound, we were not unreasonable in anti-
ci})uting ite eom])lete accomplishment," k^c. And
Fi-anklin, in the eleventh chapter of his work, is of the
same opinion, as to the practicability of such a passage

Put in no subsecjuent attempt, either by themselves
or fthers, has this long sought desideratum been ac-
coniplished ; iiupediments and barriers seem as thickly
thi-i'Wn in its way as ever."

An expedition was at length undertaken for the sole
purpose of reaching the Is'orth Pole, with a view to
tiie ascertaini«ent of philosoidiical questions. It was
planned and placed under the command of Sir Edward
Parry, and here first the elucidation of phenomena
connected with this imaginary axis of our planet
tori.ifed the piimary object of investigation.

ISly sjmce and purpose in this work will not permit
me to go into detail by examining what Barrow justly
ternis " thos^ brilliant ])eriods of early English enter-
prise, so conspicuously displayed in every quarter of
the globe, but in none, probably, to greater advantage
than in those bold and persevering efibrts to pierce
through frozen seas, in their little slender barks, of the
most miserable description, ill provided with the means
either of comfort or safety, without charts or instru-
mevits, or any previous knowledge of the cold and in-
hospitable region through which they had to force and
to i'cel their way ; their vessels oft beset amidst end-
less fields of ice, and threatened to be overwhelmed
witli instant destruction from the rapid whirling and
buvoting of those huge floating masses, laiown by the

• Colonial Mngazliip, ml. xiii, p, 310

IMTKUDL'CTI'.»X.,

1)111*1011 tliut

uf tlie 75th

:>;of Lis first
i&teiicG of a
o\v seiircely
cli attended
1 Sir Jaiiie.4
ible ill aiiti-
iS:c. And
:)rk, is of tlio
:h 11 piisriaii'o
' tlieiiiselves
tim been ac-
ni as thickly

I for the sole
th a view to
ons. It was
f Sir Edward
plienoinena
our planet

not permit

irrow justly

o'lisli enter-

quarter ot
r advantage
ts to pierce
)ark8, of the
h the means
ts or instru-
hold and in-
|o force and

miidst end-
lerwhelmed

lirling and

)wn by the

name of icebergs. Yet so powerfully infused into tho
minds of liritons was the sjtirit of enterprise, that
Bome of the ai)lest, tho most learned, and most respect-
able men of the times, not only lent their counten«nce
I and su])|)ort to e\[»editions iitted out for the discovery
■ of new lands, but strove eagerly, in their own'])ei'S')ns,
" to share in the glory and tiie danger of every da:Iiig
adventure.*'

To the late Sir John Barrow, F. K. S., for 80 long a
])eriod secretary of the Admiralty, and who, in early
lil'e, himself visited the Spitzbergen seas, as liigh as
the SOth ]»arallel, we are mainly indebted for the ad-
vocacy and promotion of the b«everal expeditions, and
the investigations and incpiiries set on foot in the } res-
ent centurv, and to the voyages which ha7e been hith-
erto so successfully carried out as regards the interests
of science and our knowledge of the Polar regions.

Although it is absurd to impute the direct responsi-
bility for these expeditions to any other quarter than
. the several administrations during whicli they were
undertaken, there can be no question but that tiiese
enterprises originated in Sir John Barrow's able and
zealous exhibition, to our naval authorities, of the
eeveral facts and arguments upon which they might
best be justified and prosecuted as national objects.
.The general anxiety now prevailing respecting tho late
of Sir John Franklin and his gallant campanion.s,
throws at this moment somewhat of a gloom on tho
Bubject, but it ought to be remembered tliat, up to the
vpresent period, our successive Polar voyages h;ive,
.^without exception, given occupation to the eoergieH
^and gallantry of British seamen, and have extended
||the realms of magnetic and general science, at an ex-
Ipense of lives and money quite insignificant, compared
[with the ordinary dangers and casualties of such expe-
;ditions, and that it must be a very narrow spirit and
view of the subject which can raise the cry of "6'w*
^6>;io," and counsel us to relinquish the honor and ]jeril
of such enterprises to Kussia and the Uaited States o^
America I

IMlOGlilibS OF AKCTIC DISCOVEliY.

It cjin scarcely ho deemed out of i)l;icc to irivo liero
a sliort notice ol" the literarv hihoi-.s of tins excellent
and talented man, as I am not aware thateuch an out-
line has appeared hefore.

Sir John Barrow was one of the chief writers for t})o
Qnartei4v lleview, and his articles in that journal
amount to nearly 200 in number, forming::, when bound
up, twelve separate volumes. All those relating to
the Arctic Exj)editions, &c., which created the great-
est interest at the period they were published, were
from his pen, and consist chieHy of the following ])a-
pers, commencing from the 18th volume; — On Polar
Ice ; On Behriuic's Straits and the Polar Pjisin ; On
Iloss's Voyage to Batlin's Bay ; On Parry's First Voy-
age ; Kotzebue's Voyage ; Franklin's First Expedition ;
Parry's Second and Third Voyages, and Attempt to
Reach the Pole ; Franklin's Second Expedition ; Lyon's
Voyage to Repulse Bay ; Back's Arctic Land Expe-
dition, and his Voyage of the Terror. Besides these
he published " A Chronological History of Voyages
to the Arctic Seas," and afterward a second volume,
" On the Voyages of Discovery and Research within
the Arctic Regions."

lie also wrote lives of Lord Macartney, 2 vols. 4to ;
of Lord Anson and Howe, each 1 vol. 8vo ; of Peter
the Great; and an Account of the Mutiny of the
Bounty, (in the " Family Library ; ") " Travels in

Southern

Africa," 2

vols, 4to; and "Travels in

China aud Cochin China," each 1 vol. 4to.

Li the "Encyclopedia Britannica" are ten or
twelve of his articles, and he wrote one in the Edin-
burgh Review by special request.

Li addition to these Sir John Barrow prepared for
the press innumerable MSS. of travelers in all parts
of the globe, the study of geography being his great
delight, as is evidenced by his having founded the
Royal Geographical Society of London, which now
holds high and influential a position in the learned
and scientific world, and has advanced so materially
the progress of discovery and research in all p>arts of

INTIiUltL'CTIu.\,

liV.

) to iirivo lioro
In's excc'lloiit
t Buch an oiit-

vrlters for t})e
that joui'ual
, v/ljen bound
e relutinp: to
ed the fjjreat-
hlislied, wore
followini:^ ])a-
3 ; — On Polar
ir Basin ; On
^^'s First Voy-
t Expedition ;
d Attempt to
lition ; Lyon's
Land Expc-
Besides these
-■ of Voyages
cond volume,
search within

■, 2 vols. 4to ;

vo ; of Peter

utiny of the

"Travels iu

Travels in

are ten or
in the Edin-

prepared for
in all parts

ng his great

founded the
which no'A'
the learned

30 materially
all parts of

the globe. Lastly, Sir John Barrow, not long befo»-e
his death, published his own autobiography, in which
he records the labors, the toil, and adventure, of a long
and honorable public life.

Sir John Barrow has described, with voluminous caie
and minute research, the arduous services of all tha
chief Arctic voyagers by sea and land, and to his voi
ume I must refer tliose who wish to obtain more cxten
sive details and particulars of the voyages of ])recedin'!
centuries. Jle has also gra])hicany set forth, to use his
own \V(»rds, " their several characters and conduct, no
iinit'»rnily displayed in their unrtinchinj: perseveraneo
in ditliculties of no ordinary description, their patient
endurance of extreme suffering, borne without mur-
muring, and witli an equanimity and fortitude of mind
under the most a})])alling distress, rarely, if ever,
eqiuiled, and such as could only be supported by a
superior degree of moral courage and resignation to
the Divine will — displaying virtues like those of no
ordinary caste, and such as will not fail to excite the
sympathy, and challenge the admiration of every right-
feeling reader."

Ilakluyt, in his " Chronicle of Voyages," justly ob-
Gcrves, that we should use much care in preserving the
memories of the worthy acts of our nation.

Tlie different sea voyages and land journeys of the
present century toward the Korth Pole have redounded
to the honor of our country, as well as reflected credit
on the characters and reputation of the officers engaged
in tiiem ; and it is to these I confine my observations.

The progress of discovery in the Arctic regions has
been slow but progressive, and much still within the
limits of practical navigation remains yet unexplored.
As Englishmen, we must naturally wish that discov-
eries which were first attempted by the adventurous
spirit and maritime skill of our conntrymen, should be
finally achieved by the same means.

" Wil it not," says the worthy ' preacher,' Ilakluyt,
" in all posteritie be as great a renown vnto our En-
glish nation©, to have beene the first discouerers of a

l'IM(illi:s:i oK AUtTIC J)IS(u\i:i;Y.

(

BCiX Ijeyond tlicj Xoi-tli Capo, (neiicr ccrtiiiiiely knowcn
before,) and <»t'u coniieiiient |)a-.-au:e into tlie.liu^e em-
pire of Russia by tlie Daie i»t'St. Nicholas and t»t' tiio
Iliuor of .Dniiia, a:* for the l\»rtuica!e.s, to have found
a sea beyond the Cajte of Luona Esperanza, and so
consequently a j)a5ri{u;e by sea into tlie East Indies?"

I cordially agree with the (Quarterly Review, tliat
" neither the country nor the naval service will ever
believe they have any cauie to re<^ret voyages which,
in the eyes of foreigners and posterity, must confer
lasting honor upon both."

The'cost of these vovages has not been great, while
the consequences will be permanent ; for it lias been
well remarked, by a late writer, that "the record of
enterprising hardihood, physical endurance, and steady
perseverance, displayed in overcoming elements the
most adverse, Avill long remain among the worthiest
■memorials of human enterprise."

" How shall I admire, " says Purchas, " your heroic
courage, ye marine worthies, beyond all names of
worthiness ! that neyther dread so long cyther the
presence or absence of the sunne ; nor those foggy
mysts, tempestuous winds, cold blasts, snowe and
hayle in the ayre ; nor the uneqnall seas, which might
amaze the hearer, and amate the beholder, when the
Tritons and Neptune's selfe would quake with chilling
feai'e to behold such monstrous icie ilands, renting
themselves with terror of their own massines, and dis-
dayning otherwise both the sea's sovereigntie and the
Bunne's hottest violence, mustering themselves in those
watery plaines where they hold a continual civill
warre, and rushing one npon another, make windes
and waves give backe ; seeming to rent the eares of
others, while they rent themselves with crashing and
sj)litting their congealed armors."

So thickly are the Polar seas of the northern hemi-
sphere clustered with lands, that the long winter months
serve to accumulate filed ice to a ])rodigious extent, so
as to form an almost impenetrable barrier of hypei
i)orean frost —

iNM;()i>i'i."r""N.

.•;3

-*lv knowcu
e liiiu'e em-
and of tlio
liave ti>uii(l
i/.a, and so
t Indies r'
evicw, tluit
e will ever
iges which,
[lust confer

Tcat, while
t has been
record of
and steady
^nients the
3 worthiest

j'our heroic

names of

Icyther the

lose foo'iirv

nowe and

licli might

when tlie

ith chilling

is, renting

is, and dis-

ie and the

es in those

uial civill

ke windes

e eares of

ishing and

lern hemi-
ter months
extent, so
of hypei

" A crystul |i;uiMii-'iil hy llu Ijienlh of Ueavcn
CciiienltHl tiriii."

Although there are now no new continents left to
discover, "our intrepid JJritish adventurers are but too
eager to achieve the bubble reputation, to hand down
their names to future ages for i)atient endurance, zeal,
and enterprise, by explorations of the hidden mys-
teries of —

" the frigid zone,
Where, for relentless niontlis, contitiiial uii^ht
Holds o'er the glittering waste her starry light ; "

by undergoing perils, and enduring privations and
dangers which the mind, in its rellectivc moments,
thudders to contemplate.

It is fair to conjecture that, so intense is the cold,
and so limited the summer, and consequently so short
the time allowed for a transit within the Arctic circle,
from .l-)atHn's Bay to IJehring's Straits, that a passage,
even if discovered, will never be of any use as a chan-
nel. It is not likely that these expeditions would ever
have been persevered in with so much obstinacy, had
the prospects now opening on the world of more prac-
ticable connections with the East been known forty
vears ago. Hereafter, when the sacred demands of
humanity have been answered, very little more will
be heard about the northwest passage to Asia ; which,
if ever found, must be always hazardous and pro-
tracted, when a short and quick one can be accom-
plished by railroads through America, or canals across
the Isthmus.

A thorough knowledge of the relative boundaries of
lan<l and ocean on this our globe has, in all ages and
by all countries, been considered one of the most im-
})ortant desiderata, and one of the chief featm'es of
popular information.

But to no country is this knowledge of such prac-
tical utility and of such essential importance, as to a
maritime nation like Great J^ritain, whose mercantile
marine visits every port, whose insular position ren-
ders her completely dependent upon distant quarters

rUOUKKSd OK AliLTlC 1)ISC(»V1:KV.

for liair the nootvisary suj (plies, whether of tb(xl or liix-
arv, wliicli her native ■j)(»i;uhiti(>ii con.^uiue, or wliich
tlie arts and niaimlUeturus, oi' which she is tlie emi)o-
riiim, re(juire.

With a vast and yeai'ly increasing dominion, cover-
inu;' almost every region ot" the habitable globe, — ^tiie
chart of our colonies being a chart of the woi'ld in out-
lino, for we swee[) the globe ami touch every shore, —
it becomes necessary that we should keep pace with
the progress of colonization, by enlarging, wherever
possible, our maritime discoveries, completing and veri-
fying our nautical surveys, iuii)roving our meteorologi-
cal researches, opening up new and speedier perodical
pathways over the oceans which were formerly trav-
ersed with so much danger, doubt, and difficulty, and
maintaining our superiority as the greatest of maritime
nations, by sustaining that high and distinguished rank
for naval eminence which has ever attached to the
British name.

The arduous achierements, however, of our nautical
discoverers have seldom been appreciated or rewarded
as they deserved. We load our naval and military
heroes — the men who guard our wooden walls and
successfully fight our battles — Math titles and pen-
sions ; we heap upon these, and deservedly so, princely
remuneration and a.l manner of distinctions; but for
the heroes whose p'r.tient toil and protracted endurance
far surpass the turmoil of war, who peril their lives in
the cause of science, many of whom fall victims to
pestilential climates, famine, and the host of dangers
which environ the voyager and traveler in unexplored
lands and unknown se*i8, we have only a place in the
niche of iiime.

What honors did England, as a maritime nation, con-
fer on Cook, the foremost of her naval heroes, — a man
whose life was sacrificed for his country ? His' widow
had an annuity of 200?., and his surviving childrcii
261. each per annum. And this is the reward paid to
the most eminent of our naval discoverers, before
whom Cabot, Drake, Frobisher, Magellan, Anson, and

all

Hei

re?

iiK

INTKODL'CTInX.

or lux-
i* which
) ouipo-

, covor-
}, — tiiu
[ ill out-
liorc, —
,co with
he rover
iiid veri-
}oroh>gi-
erudical
I'ly triiv-
Itv, and
laritiino
led rank
I to the

nautical

iwarded
lilitary
Is and
pen-

3rincely
Jilt for
iirancc
ives in
;inis to
anger.s

xplored
in the

on, con-
- a man

widow
lildren
paid to

heforo
on, and

■i

tlie arctic adventurers, [rudsonand T)iilHn, — although
Jill eminent tor their discoveries and the important
services they rendered to the cause of nautical sci-
ence, — sink into insi^nilicance ! If we glance at the
I'esults of Cook's voyages we find that to liini we are
indei)ted for the innumerable discoveries of islands and
colonies planted in the Tacilic ; that he determined
the conformation, and surveyed the numerous bays
and inlets, of New Holland ; established the geogra-
])hical ])osition of the northwestern shores of America ;
ascertained the trending of the ice and frozen shores to
the nurtli of Behring's Straits ; approached nearer the
South Pole, and made more discoveries in the Austra-
lian regions, tlian ,ill the navigators who had preceded
him. On the very shores of their vast empire, at the
extremity of Kamtschatka, his active genius first
taught the Russians to examine the devious trendinga
of the hinds wiiich border the Frozen Ocean, in the
neighborhood of the Arctic circle. He explored both
the ea&tern and western coasts above Behring's Straits
to so high a latitude as to decide, beyond doubt, the
(piestion as to the existence of a passage round the two
Continents. He showed the Russians how to navigate
tiie dangerous seas between the old and the new
World ; for, as Coxe has remarked, " before his time,
every thing was uncertain and confused, and though
tliey had undoubtedly reached the contincjit of Amer-
ica, yet they had not ascertained the line of coast, nor
the separation or vicinity of the two continents of Asia
and America." C6xe, certainly, does no more than
justice to his illustrious countryman when he adds,
'' the solution of this important problem was reserved
for our great navigator, and every Englishman must
exult that the discoveries of Cook were extended fur-
ther in a single expedition, and at the distance of half
the globe, than the Russians accomplished in a long
series of years, and in a region contiguous to their owu
empire."

Look at Weddell, again, a private trader in seal-
skins, who, in a frail bark of 160 tons, made important

lid

rituoui:ss i>k auciu; ln^o»vLUV.

discovui'ius ill tlio Antarctic circle, uiul Ji voyai^n of
i^rcatcr Icuj^tli jiikI peril, throiii^ii u tliuiisaml n
ICO, tliini lijid i>rcvi<>iisly been i)crr"»rmc(l 1)V uii
gftlor, ]»iiviiig the wiiy tor the more expeiisivol

tOS8.

Wed

nsiirate with liln im

expedition under Sir Junics
muneriited on ii scide com
services?

Half 11 century nijo the celebrated l>ruee of Ki
by a Hcries o4' sound ini^s and ol)scrvutic»ns lakei
lied Sea, now the ^reat hi^-hway of overland
tralHc, rendered its naviijation more secure an(

tual. II (

iti

.ow was ho rewarded by the then cms
istry ?

Take a more recent instance in the indefutin-ablo
energy of Lieutenant AVaL!;horn, It. Ts"^., the t'ntei'iirisini;'
pioneer of the overland route to India. AVhat does not
the connncrce, the character, the reputation, of this
country owe to his indefatii^able exertions, in brini,nn<;'
the metropolis into closer connection with our va-t and
important Indian empire? And what was the reward
lie received for the sacriiices he made of time, money,
health and life ? A paltry annuity to himself of lOoL,
and a pension to his widow of 2U. per annum !

Is it creditable to us, as the first naval ])ower of tlie
world, that we should thus dole out miserable pittances,
or entirely overlook the successful patriotic exertions
and scientific enterprises and discoveries of private
adventurers, or public commanders ?

The attractions of a summer voyage along the bays
and seas where the sun shines for four months at a time,
exploring the bare rocks and everlasting ice, with no
companion but the white bear or the Arctic fox, may
bo all very romantic at a distance ; but the mere thought
of a winter residence there, frozen fast in some solid
ocean, with snow a dozen feet deep, the thermometer
ranging from 40° to 50° below zero, and not a glimpse
of the blessed sun from November to February, is
enough to give a chill to all adventurous notions. But
the officers and men engaged in the searching expedi-
tions after Sir John Franklin have calmly weighed all

I lies of

I ''

ly navi-

♦ tl

y tilled

dell re-

portauL

itmaird.

1 in the

eastern

d pune-

* 1

ng miu-

I'lKST VuVAwK <»K vAl'TAlN Uo^H.

• » t

iyrt«fo of
111 ill's of
uy niivi-
;l_v iittod
• hk'll I'c-
iiportaiit

LiniiainI,
ill in the
. esi.steni
id piiiic-
inij min-

tatin'iiUlo
.'I'lJi-isini;'

docs not
1, ol' this
hriii^ini;'

va-t and
3 reward

llloUUV,

of lOU/.,

•

r of the

ittaiicci^,

xurtions

private

fie Lays
a time,
with no
)X, may
thouc-ht

J *!P

[e solid
lomcter
dimpse
fary, is
But
jxpedi-
led all

tlieso dillicultiis, and Ix.ldly «;ono forth to eneouiiti'r
the perils and daiii^ers (»f these ley ^eas tor the sake of
tlu if nohle fellow-sailur, whoso fate has been au long a
painful mvstery to tlio world.

It has been truly observed, that '• this is a service
Wn- which all otlicers, however brave and intelli_i;-ent
tlu'V may be, are not eijually <|ualilieil ; it rei[uires ii
].e('uliar'^ta('t, an in([uisitive and persevering' j)ursnit
atler details of tact, not always interesting:, a ci»ntempt
(jf danirer, and an I'lithusiasm not to be dam[)ed by
ordinary ditliruliies.''

The recortls which I shall have to <,dve in these pa^es
of voyauvs and travels, inii»aralleled intlu-ir jjcrils,
their "duration, and the jd'otracted sutl'erin^s which
many of them entailed on the adventurers, will brini;-
out in bold relief the prominent characters who havt)
lli^ured in Arctic Discovery, and whose names will
(le:icend to posterity, embla/.oned on the scroll of fame,
for tbeir bravery, their patient endurance, their Kkill,
and, above all, their lirm trust and reliance on that
Aliiiii;'hty lieing- who, althoug-h Ue may have triod
them sorely, has never utterly forsaken them.

Cai't. John Ross's Yoyage, 1818.

Ix ISIS, His Royal Highness the Princo Eegeut
having signified his pleasure that an attempt should
be made to find a passage by sea between tl.'e Atlantic
and Pacific Oceans, the Lords Commissioners of the
Admiralty were ])leased to fit out four vessels to pro-
ceed toward the North Pole, under the command of
Captain John Boss. Ko former expedition had been
fitted out on so extensive a scale, or so completely
equipped in e\ ery respect as this one. The circum-
stance which mainly le<l to the serding out of these
vessels, was the open character of the bays and seaa
in those regions, it having been observed for the pre-
vious three years that very unusual quantities of the
polar ice had floated down into the Atlantic. In the

riiOGKKSS OF AlvCriU DISCUVKliY.

year 1817, Sir John Earrow relates tliat the eastern
coast of Greenhind, which had been shut up with ico
for four centuries, was found to be accessible from the
TOth to the 80th degree of latitude, and the interme-
diate sea between it and Spitzbergen was so entirely
open in the latter parallel, that a Hamburgh ship had
actually sailed along this track.

On the 15th of January, 1818, the four ships were
put in commission — the Isabella, 385 tons, and the
Alexander, 252 tons — under Captain Ross, to proceed
up the middle of Davis' Strait, to a high northern lati-
tude, and then to stretch across to the westward, in
the hope of being able to pass the northern extremity
of America, and reach Behring's Strait by that route.
Those destined for the Polar sea were, the Dorothea,
382 tons, and the Trent, 249 tons, which were ordered
to proceed between Greenland and Spitzbergen, and
seek a passage through an open Polar sea, if such
should be found in that direction.

I shall take these voyages in the order of their pub-
lication, Ross having given to the world the account
of his voyage shortly after his return in 1819 : while
the narrative of the voyage of the Dorothea and Trent
was only published in 18l3, by Captain Beechey, who
served as Lieutenant of the Trent, during the voyage.

The following were the officers, &c., of the ships
under Captain Ross : —

Isabella.

Captain — John Ross.

Lieutenant — W. Robertson.

Purser — W. Thorn.

Surgeon — John Edwards.

Assistant Surgeon — C. J. Beverley.

Admiralty Midshipmen — A. M. Skene and James

Clark Ross.
Midshipman and Clerk — J. Bushnan.
Greenland Pilots — B. Lewis, master; T. "Wilcox,

mate.
Captain (now Colonel) Sabine, R. A.

FIKST VOYAGE OF CAPTAIN KOSS.

astern
ith ico
im the
tenne-
atirely
ip had

3 were
lid the
•roceed
rn lati-
ard, in
:remity
t route.
>rothea,
ordered
en, and
if, such

3ir pub-
acconnt
while
Trent
By, who
voyao;e.
snips

James

'ilcox,

45 petty officers, >eamen, and marines.
Whole conij^lement, 57.

•

Alcxayider.

Lieutenant and Cuinniander — William Edward

Parry, (now Ca])tain Sir Edward.)
Lieutenant — IL IL Hoopner, (a lirst rate artist.)
I'tn-ser — W. 11. Hooper.
Greenland Tiiots — J. Allison, master ; J. Philips,

mate.
Adiiiinilty Midshipmen — P. Bisson and J.Kius.
Assistant Surireon — A. Fisher.
Clerk — J. liaise.
28 petty officers, seamen, &c.

Whole complement, 37.

On the 2d of May, the four vessels being reported
fit for sea, rendezvonsed in Brassa Sound, Shetland,
and the two expeditions parted company on the follow-
ing day for their respective destinations.

On tlie 56ths the Isabella fell in with the first ice-
berg, which appeared to be about forty feet high and
a thousand ft-et long. It is hardly possible to imagine
any thing more exrjuisite than the variety of tints which
tiiL'se icebergs display ; by night as well as by day they
glitter with a vividness of color beyond the power of
art to represent. While the white portions have the
brilliancy of silver, their colors are as various and
splendid as those of the rainbow; their ever-changing
disposition producing effects as singular as they are
new and interesting to those who have not seen them
before.

On the 17th of June, they reached Waygatt Sound,
beyond Disco Island, where they found forty-five
whalers detained by the" ice. Waygatt Island, from
observations taken on shore, was found to be 5° longi-
tude and 30 miles of latitude from the situation as laid
down in the Admiralty Charts.

They were not able to get away from here till the
1 20th, Avhen the ice began to break. By cutting passages

i'i:o<;i:::.ss uv xaciu: Di-.atWAiY.

throu^;li the ico, and by dint ol* towing imd wjirpinij;-,
ii slow jn'ogress was luadu with the bhips until tho
ITth of July, wljcii two icu-llocs closing in upon them,
threatened inevitable destruction, and it was only by
tlie greatest exertions that they Love through into open
water. The labors of warping, towing, and tracking
were subsc([uentiy very severe. This tracking, al-
t.hough hard work, atl'orded great amusement to tlie
men, giving frequent occasion for the exercise of their
wit, when some of the men occasionally fell in through
holes covered with snow or weak parts of the ice.

Yerv hi<i:h mountains of land and ice were seen to
tlie north side of the bay, which he named Melville's
Ijay, forming an im}>assal)le barrier, the precipices
next the sea being from lOOO to 2000 feet high.

( )n the 2Dth of June, the Esquinuiux, John Sacheusc,
who had accomj)anied the expedition from England as
interpreter, was sent on shore to commniucate with
the natives. About a dozen came off to visit the ship,
and, after being treated with coifee and biscuit in the
cabin, and having their portraits taken, they set to
dancing Scotch reels on the deck of the Isabella with
the sailors.

Captain Ross gives a pleasant description of this
scene — '' Sacheuse's mirth and joy exceeded all
bounds ; and with a good-humored officiousness, justi-
fied by the important distinction which his superior
knowledge now gave him, he performed the office of
master of the ceremonies. An Esquimaux M. C. to a
ball on the deck of one of II. M. ships in the icy seas
of Greenland, was an office somewhat new, but Kash
himself could not have performed his functions in a
manner more appropriate. It did not belong even to
Nash to combine in his own person, like Jack, the dis-
cordant qualifications of seaman, interpreter, draughts-
man, and master of ceremonies to a ball, with those
of an active fisher of seals and a hunter of white bears.
A daughter of the Danish resident (by in Esquimaux
woman,) about eighteen years of age, and by far the
best looking of the half-caste group, was the object of

FIIIST VoVAiii; "!•• CAl'IAIX KOSS.

.til tho
1 tiieiii,

to open
rackini^
mg, iii-
to the
of thL■il•
tlll•o\lgll

CO.

seen to
elville'ri
acipices
I.

icheuse,
j;lund us
ite with
he ship,
it in the
\y set to

la with

of this
ed all
s, justi-
uperior
ffice of
C. to a
icy seas
it Kasli
ms in a
even to
the dis-
raughts-
li those
e bears,
uimaux
far the
>iect of

Jack's particular attentions; which being observed by
one of our ullicers, lie gave him a hidy's shawl, orna-
jueuted with spangles, as an otleringfor her acce]>tance.
]le ])resented it in a most respectful, and nut inigrace-
ful manner to the damsel, who bashfully took a pew-
ter ring from her linger and gave it to him in return,
rewarding him, at the same time, with an eloquent
emile, which could leave no doubt on our Ks(|uiman\'s
mind that he had made an impression on her heart. ''■•^*
On tiie 5th of August the little auks \Mergulfus alle,)
"Were exceedingly abundant, and many were shot for
food, as was also a large gull, two feet five inches in
length, which, when killed, disgorged one of these
little birds, entire.

A fortnight later, on two boats being sent from the

Isabella to procure as many of these birds as possible,

,ic>r the purpose of ])ro3erving them in ice, they re-

,turned at inidnight with a boat-load of about 1500,

jliaving on an average, killed fifteen at each shot. The

boats of the Alexander were nearly as successful.

iriiese birds were afterward served daily to each man,

and, among other \vays of dressing them, they were

Kbund to make excellent soup — not inferior to hare

ioup. iS'ot less than two hundred auks were shot ou

0\e 0th of August, and served out to the ships' compa-

'pies, among whose victuals they ])roved an agreeable
4|ariety, not having the fishy flavor that miglit be ex-

"iected from their food, which consists of 'crustacea,
jpiall fishes, mollusca, or marine vegetables.
I On the Tth of August the ships were placed in a
iiost critical situation' by a gale of wind. The Isabella

. fds lifted by the pressure of ice floes on each side of
|cr, and it was doubted M'hether the vessel could long
'" ithstand the grips and concussions she sustained'^
J every support threatened to give way, the beams in
e hold began to bend, and the iron water-tanks

ittled tO£i-ether. The tv;

o vessels were thrown with

iolent concussion against each other, th

e ice-anchors

Vol. I, IX 67, 68.

VLO'Jil'.'.lii i/V

'■;iv: iHi c>jvi:i;v.

iind c;il)]o-i Lrolco one after tlie other,* a boat at tiio
steni Wiis smashed in the collision^ and the ma:;ts
Nvere liourlv exitected to ii-o ])V the botird ; but at this
juncture, wlien certain destruction was momentarily
looked for, In.the fnerclful interposition of Providence
tlie lields of' ice suddenly opened and formed a clear
passage for the ships."

A singular physical feature was noticed on the part
of the coast nea^r Cape Dudley Diggcs : — "W' have
discovered, (says lloss,) that the snow on the face of
.the cliifs presents an appearance both novel and inter-
f.-ting, being apparently stained or covered by some
Eubstance whicii gave it a deej) crimson color. This
snow was jienetrated in many places to a depth of ten
or twelve feet by the coloring matter." There is noth-
ing new, however, according to JiJarrow, in the discov-
ery of red snow. Plinv, and other writers of his time
mention it. Saussui-e found it in various parts of the
Alps ; Martin found it in Spitzbergen, and no doubt
it is to be met with in most alpine regions.

In the course of this tedious, and often laborious
])rogres3 through the ice, it became necessary to keep
the whole of the crew at the most fatiguing work, some-
times for several days and nights without intermission.
When this was the case, an extra meal was served to
them at niidnight, generally of preserved meat ; and
it was found that this nourishment, when the mind
and body were both occupied, and the sun continually
present, rendered them capable of remaining without
sleep, so that they often ])assed three days in this man-
ner without any visible inconvenience, returning after
a meal to their labor on the ice or in the boats quite
refreshed, and continuing at it without a murmur.

After nraking hasty and very cursory examinations
of Smith's and Jones' Sounds, Ross arrived, on the
oOth of August, off the extensive inlet, named by Baf-
fin, Lancaster Sound. The entrance was perfectly
clear, and the soundings ranged from 650 to 1000 fiitli-
oms. I shall now quote Koss's own observations on
this subject, because from his unfortunate report of ;i

I'lUST VoVAGK 01'" CAl'TAIN KOSS.

it at tiic
lie niii;ts
lit at this
nentarilv
[•ovidence
d a clear

1 the part
^Y Lave
e face of
and inter-
by some
lor. This
pth of ten
re is noth-
he discov-
f his time
irts of the
. no doubt

laborious
■y to keep
)rk, gome-
jrmission.
served to
leat ; and
Ithe mind
>ntinually
Ig without
this man-
tling after
loats quite
Irmur.
minations
Id, on the
)d by Biii-
perfectlv
LOGO ftitli-
[-ations on
)port of ;i

ranu'c called the Croker mountains, stretching across
thirSlralt, has ;vsulted much of the ridicule and dis-
credit which has attached to his accnimts, and chtuded
his earlv reputation — " On the ;rist (he says) we dis-
co ver^'d, fur tiic iirst time, that the hind-cxtiMidcd from
tlie sonth two-tliirds across this apparent Strait; l>nt
the fog which continually occuj)ied that (piartcr, oh-
■ Ecurt'cfits real ligurc. r)uring the day imu'h interest
was excited on hoard by tlie ai)]teai'ance of this Strait.
T!ie oviieral opinion, however, was, that it was only an
inlctr TIk' Ian I was i)artially seen extending across/,
the yellow sky was ])erceptible. At a little-bi'fore four
o'clock A. M.,'^the land was seen at the bottom of the
inlet by the otHcers of the watch, but before I got on
deck {{ space of about seven degrees of the coni])ass
was obscured hy the tog. The land which I thoii saw
was a high ridge of nionntains extending'directly aci'oss
' the bottom of the inlet. This chain appeared extremely
hii'-h in the center. AlthoUi>:h a passa^'c in this direc-
tion appeared hopeless, I was determined to ex])lore it
coniph'tely. I therefore continued all sail. i^Lr. IJev-
.erly. tlie surgeon, who was the most sanguine, v\-ent n])
,^to the crow's nest, and at twelve re]»ortod to me that
|])elbre it became thick he had seen the land across the
Ibay, except for a very short space.
f "-'At three, I went on deck ; it completely cleared ix)r
,;^ten minutes, M'lien I distinctly saw the land round the
bottom of the bay, forming a chain of mountains con-
'nected with those Avhich extended alono; the noi'th and
|B0uth side. This land appeared to be at the distance
?of eight leagues, and Mr. Lewis, the master, and James
fllaig, leading man, being sent for, they took its bcar-
- linii's, which were inserted in the loic- At this nuunent
^I also saw a continuity of ice at the distance of seven
limiles, extending from one side of the buy to the other,
'^between the nearest cape to the north, which I named
atter Sir George Warrender, and that to the sonth,
which was named after Yiscount Castlereagh. The
mountains, which occupied the center, in a north and

l'lH.)t.liK^.i UF AIUJTIC I)I^:C<>VJ•:KV.

soiitli (lln'ctioii, M'LTo named Crukur's Muiiiitiiiiis, after
the Secretary to tlie Admiralty.""

Tliey next proceeded to Possession Bay, at tlie en-
trance of the Strait, wliere a great many animals were
observed. Deer, fox, ermine, bears, and hares, were
cither seen, or ])roved to be in abundance by their
tracks, and the skeleton of a whale was found stranded
about 500 yards beyond high-water-mark. Finding, as
Itoss supposed, no outlet through Lancaster Strait, the
vessels continued their progress to the south^^ard, ex-
■])loring the western coast of Baffin's Bay to Pond's
Bay, and Booth's Inlet, discovering the trending of tlio
land, which he named Korth Galloway, and Xorth
Ayr to Cape Adair, and Scott's Bay.

On Septendjcr the 10th, they landed on an island
near Caj^e Eglington, which was named Agnes' Monu-
ment. A flag-staff and a bottle, with an account of
their pi'oceedings was set up. The remains of a tem-
porary habitation of some of the Esquimaux were here
observed, with a fire-place, part of a human skull, a
broken stone vessel, some bones of a seal, burnt wood,
part of a sledge, and tracks of dogs, &c.

While the boat was absent, tw^o large bears swam oft'
to the ships, which were at the distance of six miles
from tlie land. They reached the Alexander, and were
immediately attacked by the boats of that ship, and
killed. One, which was shot through the head, unfor-
tunately sank ; the other, on being wounded, attacked
the boats, and showed considerable play, but was at
length secured and fowled to the Isabella by the boats
of both ships. The animal weighed 1131 i lbs., besides
the blood it had lost, which was estimated at 30 lbs.
more.

On the following day, Lieut. Parry was sent on shore
to examine an iceberg, which was found to be 4109
yards long, 3SG9 yards broad, and 51 feet high, being
aground in 61 fothoms. When they had ascended to
the top, which was perfectly flat, they found a huge

o'.l

(■•>1

br
ll

* X'

Vol. T, p. 211-4G, 8vo, cd.

VcVAt.K OF r.i I IIAN AND FiJANKLIX.

11:^, after

the cn-
als were
er;, M-oro
by tlioir
nranded
1(1 ing. as
trait, the
\arcl, t'X-

ig of the
d Xorth

n island
s' Muini-
:'Oiint of
)f a tem-
»-cre here
skull, a
nt wood,

;wam off

ix miles

Ind were

nip, and

1, iiniur-

ittaeked

was at

Ihe boats

besides

30 lbs.

)n shore

i 41G9

., being

ided to

a liugo

white bear in fjiiiet possession of the mass, who, nnieh
to tlitir niortilleation and a>tonisliment, phmged with-
out hesitntion into tlie sea from tlie edge of tiie preei-
])i('e. —'lich was lifty feet liigh.

I'rom earetul observation it was found that there was

Jno Bueh land in the center of Davis' Strait as James'

Jjshuid, which was laid down in most of the cliarts.

j!>,'t)thlng deserving of notice occurred "n the snl)se<jnent
■(••.nr<(M»f the vessels past Cajie AValsingliam to Cuni-
bei'land Strait.

The 1st of October liavinp; arrived, the limit to which
liis instructions p(>rmitted lum to remain, out, Ivoss
FJiaped his conrse homeward, and after encountering a
Fi'vei-e gale olf Cape Farewell, arrived in (Trimsby
]I(iads on the 14th of November. As respects the pur-
l»ose of Arctic discoverv, this vovao-c mav be considered

labiKot a blank, none of the important inlets and sounds
of IJallin's Day having been explored, and all that was
done was to define more clearly the land-bounds of
]):ivi>' Strait and EafHn's Bay, if we exce])t the valn-
v;able magnetic and other observations made by Caj»tain
Sabine. The commander of the expedition was pro-
noted to tin? rank of cajitain on paying off the ships in
)ecend »or, I^IS.
v< The account of his voyage, published by Capt. Tioss,
.^ of the most meager and uninteresting descrii>tion,
mnd more than half tilled with dry details of the outfit,
Cojties of his instructions, of his routine letters and
orders to his officers, c^c.
I

4 BuCHAN AND FrAXKLIN.

Dorot/oa and TrfDtJo J\>7e, 1^'i^.

L\ conjunction with the expedition of Captain John

loss, was that sent out to the coast of Spitzbergen, and

)f which Captain Bcecliy has published a most inter-

jsting account, embellished with some very elegant

'**^llu^trations fi'om his pencil. The chai'ge of it was

" iven to Captain D. Buchan, who had, a few years pre-

ilou:dy, c<»nducted a ^xn-y interesting expedition into

■ko

rjiuGlll.t;5 (JL A^a iH; J 1." <'\ i;i:v

the interior of XcwtuiiiKlhiiKl. Tlie lir.-I an*! iiin.-t im-
])urt;uit object of tiii.s e.\i>e<liti<»ii was the (li>c'«»very t>f
a piu^sage over or as near the I'ole, a> iiii::iit l>e [)t)->il)Ie,
and tlirongli BeliringV Straits into the J-'aeiiie. J>nt it
was also lioped that it might at the same time l)e the
means of improving the geogra]»]iy and liydrograpliy
i»f tlie Arctic regicms, of wliicli so little was at tiiat time
known, and contriinite to the advancement of scieKce
and natural knowledm', Tiie oitjects to wliicli attention
was si>ecially jiointed in the Admiralty instruetions,
were the variation and inclination of the magnetic uw-
dle, the intensity of the magnetic force, and how far it
is affected l)y atmosj)lierical electricity ; the tempei'a-
tnre of the air, the dip of the horizon, refniction, heiglit
of the tides, set and velocity of the currents, (ie])ths
and soundings of the sea. Collections of specimens to
illustrate the animal, mineral and vegetable kingdoms,
were also directed to be made.

The officers and crewa2)pt»iiited to these vessels were :

Do/'of/t<a, 382 tons.

Captain — David Buchan.
Lieutenant — A. Morel 1.
Surgeon — John Duke.
Assistant Surgeon — "W. G. Borland.
Purser — John Jermain.
Astronomer — George Fisher.
■ Admiralty Mates — C. Palmer and W. J. Dealy.
Greenland Pilots — P. Bruce, master ; G. Crawfurd,

mate.
45 petty officers, seamen, &c.

Total complement, 55.

Trait, 249 tons.

Lieutenant and Commander — John Franklin.

Lieutenant — Fred. W. J*eecliy, (artist.)

Purser — AV. Barrett.

Assistant Surgeon — A. Gilfillan.

Admiralty Mates — A. Reid and George Back.

Grcenhmd Pih>l^ — 0. Fife, master ; G. Xir1)y, nvi'C.

30 petty otlicers and seamen.

Total comy-kiuent. OS.

v->VA(ii; ui' v.jj'iix:^ aM' H;ANi;Li:>'.

>i:

tvcrv of
, IJiit it

lO 1)C tlii'

that time
f scioKce
atteiiti'iu
[•I'lK'tiuiis,

IR'tif uvv-

luw far it
toiiipL'i'a-
>ii, lic'iii'Lt
s, depths
cinieiis to
liiigdoms,

jcls were :

3ealy.
awfurd,

lin.

ack.

•Ity, nsfiC.

i HaviuLC ItiHMi properly iittod for tlic service, ami ta-
■^vn oil hoard two years' provisions, the ships ^ailed oii^
tlie 2:)t!i of April. The Trent had hardly «:]jot elear of
tlic river before she s])rang a leak, and was (letaine(| in
ilio pore of Lerwick nearly a fortni«j;-ht under^ioiiiL;
rvj^aii-s.

On the isth of ^[ay, the ships encountered a sevei'o
i|ah', and \nider even'slorni stay-sails were buried ^ui;-
Will" deep in the waves. On the 2-1-th they sij-'htvd
Ghcrie Island, situated in lat. 74^' ;53' N., andjon.;-. i;
il)' I'., iorinerlv so notod for its iisherv, hein:;- ir.;;;Ii
frei[uented hy walrusses, and for many years the .Mus-
covy (.'onipaiiy carried on a lucraiive trade by sendinii,-
glii[)s to the island for oil, as many as a thousand ani-
|nals being often cajjtured by the crew of a bingle ship
in the course of six or seven hours.
^ The ]»ro'^ress of the discovery ships through the sntall
fi\^'j.< and hugv) nuisses of iee which floated in succe.- -
|i'n pa?:t, was slow, and the.u\ from thi-ir novelty, w;'re
|e;j:arded with ])eculiar attention from tiie grotesipic
lluiji.'s tliey assume. The progress of a vessel through
fiich a labyrinth of frozen masses is one of the most in-
lesling sights that oifer in the Arctic seas, ami ke])t
le olHcers and crew out of their beds till a late hour
latching the scene. Capt. Lecchey, the graphic luir-
iBtor of the voyage, thus describes the general impres-
(ion created: — "There was besides, on this occasion,
Im additional motive for remaining np; very few of
ep had ever seen the sun at midnight, and this night
liapponing to be particularly clear, liis broad red disc,
#iri(»usly distorted by refraction, and swee]>ing majes-
k-ally along the northern horizon, was an object of im-
osing grandeur, wdiich riveted to the deck some of our
few, M'ho would perhaps have beheld with indifferences
icless imposing effect of the icebergs; or it might have
jcn a combination of both these phenomena ; for it
mnot be denied that the novelty, occasioned by the
loating masses, was materially heightened by the sin-
mlar effect produced by the very low altitude at which
lie sun cast his liery beams over the icy surface of the

•IS

I'UiKiKKSS i>V AlJillC I»I.s«o\i;uv

8ea. Tlio Yixys were too oLliqno to illiiiniiuito more tliaii
the inequalities of tlie tloes, and talliiiuj thus ]»arti;illy
on the grotesque Bliapes, either really assumed l>y the
ice or distorted l)y the une([ual retraetioii ot' tiie atiii:is-
]>here, i-o l)etrayed tlie iniag'inatiou t!iat it recpiired uo
jU'reat exertion of fancy to trace in various directions ar-
eliitectural edilices, i^rottos and caves liere and thei'e
i-litterinui: as if with i)recious metals. 80 ujencrallv, in-
deed, was the decej»tion a<lmitted, that, in directing'
the rout(! of the vessel from aloft, wg for awhile dt'viated
from our luuitical phraseoloi',T, and shaped ourcoursii
for a cliurch, a tov.er, a hridge, or some similar structure,
instead of for Ium]is of ice, which were usually desig-
nated by less elegant appellations.'"

The increasing ditliculticsof this ice navigation soon,
hovv'ever, directed their attention from ronuince to the
reality of their ])Ositi()n, the perils of which soon he-
came alarmingly ap[)arent.

"TJie streams of ice, between which wc at first ymr-
suod our serjientino course M'ith comparative ease, grad-
ually became more narrow, and at length so impeded
the navigation, that it became necessary to run the shi])s
against some of these imaginar3^cdiiices, in orderto turn
them aside. Even this did not always succeed, as somo
were so substantial and immoveable, tliat the vessel =;
glanced off to the opposite bank of the channel, and
then became for a time embedded in tlie ice. Thus cir-
cumstanced, a vessel has no other resource than that of
patiently awaiting the change of position in the ice, of'
which slie must take every advantage, or she Avill settle
bodily to leeward, and become completely entangled."

On the 20th the ships sighted tho'southern ])romon-
tory of Spitxbergen, and on the 2Sth, Avhilc plying t<>
windward on the western side, wx're overtaken bv a
violent gale at southwest, in Avhich they parted com-
pany. The w^eather was very severe, "The snow fell
in heavy showers, and several tons weight of ice accu-
mulated about the sides of the brig, (the Trent,) and form
ed a complete casing to the planks, which received an
additional layer at each plunge of the vessel. So great

W(.'

alt;
wil
Stic
lufi

fthe
■fwitli

\'W

VuYA(n': OK IJLCIIA.N AM) !• KA.NKI.IN.

(ire tliun
|i:irtiaily
I l)V liic
iitmos-
ulrt'd 110
itions ai'-

11(1 tluTl'

rallv, in-
lii'L'ctin^'
(U'viatiHl
111" course
t I'll ct lire,
ly flesiii'-

ioii POoii,

iCC to tlk'.

soon 1)('-

first ])nr-
"iso, a'rad-
iinpodc"!

10 8liii).s
or to turn

as BOiuo
Ye?so]^
nel, and
ilnis cir-
n that of

ice, of

11 settle'
angled."

n'oinoii-
)lvin2: to
en by ii
;ed com-
?now fell
ICO accii-
lul form
3ived iw.
50 great

indeed, wa- the acciimnlatiou al)oiit the bouv, that wo
were oMifr<'d to cut it away rei)v'atedly with axes to re-
lieve the how-sprit from the enormous weight that was
attached to it ; and tiie ropes were so thickly covered
with ice, that it was nece>sary to bent them^ with largo
h\.\rk> lo keej) thcin in a state of rt-adiness for any ovu-
liifion that might he rendered necessary, either^ by tho
a]'i)('ai'a!ice of ice to leeward, or by u change of wind."
< )i\ the gait' ai)ating, i-ieutenant Fi'anklin found him-
Feii" surrounded by tlie main body of ice in hit. Sir N.,
and had much d'ilHcnhy in extricating the vessel. —
ilad this formidable liody Ixivn encountered in thick
wi-arher, whd ' :(!idding betore a gale of -wind, there
AVi.uld have Ih'.'U vci'v litiK- chance of saving either the
vessels or the crews. " 'J'he Trent fortunately fell in with
her consort, the Dorothea. ])revious to entering the ap-
])uinted reiKb'/.vous at .Mngilah'iia 15ay, on tho 3d of
June. This commodious inlet being the lirst j)ort tlii'y
liad anchored at in the ])ohir regions, possessed many
obJ€icts to engage attention. AV'hat particuliirly struck
them was the brilliancy of the atmosphere, the ])cace-
fiil novelty of the scene, and the gnmdeur of the vari-
^ons objects with which nature has >tored these unfn.'-
iqiiented regions. The anchoi'ago is fornu'd by rugged
[mountains, which ri.^e ])recI[)itonsly to the height of
liibout *»0()0 fi^et. Deep valh\vs and glens occur between
wthe ranrjcs, the ijreater part of whi<-h are either iilled
'with immense beds of snow, or with glaciers, sh:>ping
frtmi the summits of the mountainous margin to tho
?very edge of the sea.

The bay is rendered conspicuous by four huge gla-
s ciers, of which tho most remarkable, though the small-
: est in size, is situated 200 feet above the sea, on tho
slope of a mountain. From its peculiar a]>pcarance
this glacier has been termed the Hanging Iceberg.
Its position is such that it seems as if a very small
^ matter Avoiild detach it from the mountain, and precip-
itate it into the sea. ^Vnd, indeed, large portions of its
front do occasionally break away and fall with head-
long impetuosity upon the beach, to tho great hazard

lit

riiUOUIi-SS OF AUCTIC DISCDVKUY.

of any boat that may clianco t(j l)C near, Tlic lariri'ht
of tlic'HO glaciers occupies the liead of tlie huv, and,
ftccordin*^ to Captain Heechey's account, extends I'imiii
two to three niik'S inhmd. JSunierous hirge rents in its
upper surface liavo caused it to l)ear a resenilihince to
the ruts left hv a wagon ; hence it was named l)y the
voyagers the "^Vagon Way." Tlie frontager of this ghi-
cicr presents a perpendicular siu'face of iMH) feet in
liciglit, l)y 7000 feet in length. Mountain masses —

" Whoso blocks of 8.'\p])t>ire socm to niorlal cyo
Hewn from curuloan (lunnii'n in the Hky,
With Rliiciur biitllutiicnlH tliiit crowd th(( spheres,
Tho slow crt'utioii of six thomaiul years,
Amidst immensity they towir siiltlimi',
Winter's eternal jmlace, built by Time."

At the head of tho bay tliere is a liigh ])yramidal
itioiintain of granite, termed llotge Hill, from tlic myr-
iads of small birds of tliat name M-liieh fivcjiient its
base, and appear to jHvfer its environs to every otlicr

Eart of tho liarbor. "Tliey are so numerous that wo
avo frequently seen an uninterrupted lino of them ex-
tending full half way over the bay, or to a distance «<f
more than three miles, and so close together that thirty
have fallen at one shot. This living column, on an aver-
age, might have been about six yards broad, and as
many deep ; so that, allowing sixteen birds to a cubic
yard, there must have been nearly four millions of birds
on the wing at one time. The number I have given cer-
tainly seems large ; yet when it is told that tlie littlo
rotges rise in such numbers as completely to darken
tho air, and that their chorus is distinctly andibie at a
distance of four miles, the estimate will not be thouglit
to bear any reduction."

One of their earliest excursions in this bay was an
attempt *o ascend the peak of Rotge Hill, "upon wliich,"
says Captain Beechey, "may now, perhaps, be seen jil;
the height of about 2000 feet, a staff that once carried
a red flag, which was planted there to mark the great-
est height we were able to attain, partly in consequences
of the steepness of the ascent, but mainly on account
of the detached masses of rock which a very slight

VOVAOn OF nUCIIAN AND FIJANICMX.

f.l

iiiv, and,
lids from
nts in it.s

illllU'O to

il l)y tho
"this <i;Isi-
) feet in

38C8

y'riiniidiil
the myr-
jucnt its
jry otlicr
that wo
them c'X-
>tance of
[it tliirtv
in aver-
aiul as
a cu1)i(;
of l)irds
\'eii eer-
ie little
darken
hie at a
thought

was an
whieh,"
seen at
carried
e great-
Bquenc(i
account
slight

•■t

matter wouhl dis|»lace and hurl d<»\vn llie precipitous
di'clivity, to the utter destruction ot' ium who depended
ui)on tfu'ir support, or wh(» might iiappeii to be in
their path Itelow. The latter j)art of our ascent was,
indeecl, much against our im-limition ; hut we found it
imjMissiide ti» (h'seend l»y the way W(? ha<l come up, ami
Were ('omi)elled to gain a ledge, wlueii promised the
otdy secure resting-[>ia('i^ we could find at that hi-igiit.
'J'hi's we Were al)le to effect hy sticking the tomaliawks
with which we were ])rovided, into crevices in tlie rock,
as a support for our feet; and some of tliese instru-
ments we were obliged to leave wiiert* tliey were driven,
in consecpu'iice of tlie danger tliat atti'mkid their
iv'covery."' During the vessel's detention in this har-
bor, tln! l»ay and anciiorage were com]»letely surveyed.

When the lirst ]>arty rowed into this bay, it was in
([uiet ])ossession of iierds of walruses, who were so nn-
accustome(l to the si<dit of a boat that tliev assenUded
about her, api)arently higlily incensed at the intrusion,
and swam toward her as though they would luive torn
tlie ]>lanks asunder with their tusks. Their hides were
so toui^h that nothinf' but a bavonet would pierce them.
The wounils that were inflicted only served to increase
thi'ir rage, and it Avas with much difHculty they were
kept off with lire-arms. Su]ise(|uently the boats went
bi'tter prepared and more strongly sui)ported, and
many of these monsters were killed ; some were four-
teen feet in length, and nine feet girth, and of such
])rodigious weight, that the boat's crew could scarcely
turn them.

The ships had not been many days at their anchor-
age when they were truly astonished at tho sight of a
strange 1)oat pulling toward the ships, which was found
to belong to some Russian adventurers, who were en-
gaged in the collection of peltry and morse' teeth. This
is the last remaining establishmC^nt at Spitzbergen still
njiheld by the merchants of Archangel.

Although equally swrprised at the sight of tho ves-
sels, the boat'8 crew took courage, and after a careful
scrutiny, went on board the Dorothea; Captain Buchan

:v«fo^#2«i

rHOORESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

gave them a kind reception, and supplied tliem with
wluitever they wanted ; in return for which they sent
on board, the following day, a side of venison in excel-
lent condition. Wishing to gain some furtlier informa-
tion of these people, an officer accompanied them to
their dwelling at the head of a small cove, about four
miles distant from the bay, where he found a comfort-
able wooden hut, well lined with moss, and stored with

venison, wild ducks, &c.

It is related by Captain Beechey that it was with ex-
treme pleasure they noticed in this retired spot, proba-
bly the most northern and most desolate habitation of
our globe, a spirit of gratitude and devotion to the Al-
mighty rarely exercised in civilized countries. " On
landing from the boat and approaching their residence,
these people knelt upon its tbreshold, and oftered up a
prayer with fervor and evident sincerity. The exact
nature of the prayer wo did not learn, but it was no
doubt one of thanksgiving, and we concluded it was a
custom which these recluses were in the habit of observ-
ing on their safe return to their habitation. It may, at
all events, be regarded as an instance of the beneficial
effects which seclusion from the busy world, and a con-
templation of the works of nature, almost invariably
produce upon the hearts of even the most uneducated
pari" of mankind.'"

On the 7th of June the expedition left the anchorage
to renew the examination of tlie ice, and after steering
a few leaguea to the northward, foimd it precisely in
tlie same state as it had been left on tlie 2d. In spite
of rJl their endeavors, by towing and otherwise, the
vesf^els were driven in a calm by the heavy swell into
the packed ic^?, and the increasing peril of their situa-
tion may be imagined from the following graphic de-
Bcription : —

" The pieoeij at the edge of the pack were at one time
wholly immersed in the sea, and at the next raised far
above their natural line of flotation, while those further
in, b«ing nor* extensive, were alternately depressed or

cl(
foi

uli
nil

'': SCI

" Sill

'S w

•Pi,?:'

VOYAGE UF liUCIIAN AND FKANMtfN.

. with
y Bcnt
excel-
:brmii-
cm to
it four
mtbrt-
i with

ith cx-
proba-
ion ot*
^he Al-

"On
idence,
d up a
3 exact
was no
t was a
lobsei'V-
nay, at
ncficial

a con-
ariably

ucated

Ihorago
fceering

|sely in
spito
Ise, the
111 into
situa-
lic de-
le time
led far
further
Ised or

elevated at either extremity as the advancing wave
tbrced its way along.

^' Tlio see-saw motion which was thus produced waa
iiliinniiig, not merely in appearance, but in fact, and
must have proved fatal to any vessel that had encoun-
tered it ; as lloes of ice, several yards in thickness, were
cuutinually crashing and breaking in pieces, and the
sea for miles was covered with fragments ground so
Binull tliat they actually formed a thick, pasty fuI>
btance — in nautical language termed, "I/rash ice' —
which extended to the depth of live feet. Amidst this
giddy element, our whole attention was occupied in en-
deavoring to place the bow of the vessel, the strongest
part of her frame, in the direction of the most fomiida-
lile pieces of ice — a maneuver which, though likely to

' be attended with the loss of the bowsprit,- was yet prefer-
able to encountering the still greater risk of having the
l)roadside of the vessel in contact with it ; for this would
have subjected her to the chance of dipping her gun-

: wale under the floes as she rolled, an accident wlucli,
had it occurred, would either have laid open her side,
or have overset the vessel at once. In either case, the

i event would probably have proved Mai to all on board,

^as it would have been next to impossible to rescue any

^person from the confused moving mass of brash ice

%\vhich covered the sea in every direction."

I The attention of the seamen was in some degree di-

iverted from the contemplation of this scene of diffi-

iculty by the necessity of employing all hands at the

^ump, the leak having gained upon them. But, for-

Aunately, toward morning, they got quite clear of the

t^Sce.

' || Steering to the westward to reconnoiter, they fell in,
"Jm longitude 4° 30' E., with several wliale ships, and

. fwere informed by them that the ice was quite compact

to the westward, and that fifteen vessels were beset in

ait. Proceeding to the northward, the ships passed, on

^tlie 11th of June, Cloven Cliff, a remarkable isolated

|rock, wliich marks the northwestern boundary of Spitz-

|bergen,and steered along an intricate chajanel between

TROOKESS OF AKCTICJ DISCOVKILY.

the land and ice ; but, next morning, their further ad-
vance was stopped, and tlie channel bj which the ves-
Bels had entered became so completely closed up as to
preclude the possibility also of retreating. Lieutenant
j3eechey proceeds to state —

" The ice soon began to press heavily upon us, and,
to add to our difiiculties, we found the water so shallow
that the rocks were plainly discovered under the bot-
toms of the ships. It was impossible, however, by any
exertion on our part, to improve the situations of the
vessels. They were as firmly fixed in the ice as if they
had formed part of the pack, and we could only hope
that the current would not drift them into still shallower
water, and damage them against the ground."

The ships were here hemmed in in almost the same
position where Bafiin, Hudson, Poole, Captain Phipps,
and all the early voyagers to this quarter had been
stopped.

As the tide turned, the pieces of ice immediately
around the ships began to separate, and some of them
to twist round with a loud grinding noise, urging the
vessels, which werv3 less than a mile from the land, still
nearer and nearer vo the beach.

By great exertions the ships were hauled into small
bays in the floe, and secured there by ropes fixed to the
ice by means of large iron hooks, called ice anchors.
Shifting the ships from one part of this floe to the other,
they remained attached to the ice thirteen days. As
this change of position could only be effected by main
force, the crew were so constantly engaged in this har-
assing duty, that their time was divided almost entirely
between thp windlass and the pump, until the men at
length became so fatigued that the sick-list was seriously
augmented. During this period, however, the situation
of the leak was fortunately discovered, and the damage
repaired.

An officer and a party of men who left the Dorothea
to pay a visit to the shore, about three or four miles
distant, lost themselves in the fog and snow, and wan-
dered about for sixteen hours, until, quite overconio

Tr"

VOYAUE OF UUCUXls A>il) FliANKLIN.

le ve:.;-

P Ho to

tenant

s, and,
hallow
tio bot-
by any
of the
if they
y hope
illower

e same
Phipps,
i been

id lately
f them
ng the
id, still

small

1 to the
nchors.
3 other,
's. As
y main
lis har-
sntirelv
[nen at
riously
nation
amago

Drothea
miles
d wan-

ercomo

with wet, cold and fatigue, they sat down in a state of
despondency, upon u piece of ice, determined to submit
theii" fate to Providence. Their troubles are thus told :
"To travel over ragged pieces of ice, upon which
' there were two feet of snow, and often more, springing
from one slippery piece to the other, or, when the chan-
ni'Ls between tliem were too wide for this purpose, fer-
rying themselves upon detached fragments, was a work
which it required no ordinary exertion to execnte.
'•^Some fell into the water, and were with difficulty
reserved from drowning by their companions ; while
others, afraid to make any hazardous attempt whatever,
were left upon pieces of ice, and drifted about at tho
mercy of the winds and tides. Foreseeing the proba-
bility of a separation, they took the first opportunity
of dividing, in equal shares, the small quantity of pro-
vision whicii they had remaining, as also their stock of
])uwder and ammunition. Tliey also took it in turns to
lire muskets, in the hoj)e of being heard from the ships."
The rei)orts of the hre-arms were heard by their ship-
mates, and Messrs. Fife and Kirby, the Greenland ice-
liiuisters, ventured out with poles and lines to their
|«issistaiice, and had the good fortune to fall in with tho
?party, and bring them safely on board, after eighteen
ilKjurs' absence. They determined in future to rest sat-
isfied with the view of the shore which was afforded
^tliem from the ship, having not the slightest desire to
fittempt to approach it again by means of the ice.
il The pressure of the ice against the vessels now be-
.jCame very great.

^ "At one time, when the Trent appeared to be so closely
edged np that it did not seem possible for her to be
loved, she was suddenly lifted four feet by an enor-
lous mass of ice getting under her keel ; at another,
-<the fragments of tho cruml)ling floe were piled up
under the bows, to the great danger of the bowsprit.

"The Dorothea was in no less imminent danger, es-
pecially from the point of a floe, which came in contact
with her side, wlif^re it remained a short time, and then
glanced o% and became checked by the field to wMcli

•i(i

rnociUESS of Aucric dihcovery.

she waa moored. The enormous pressiire to whicli tlio
ship had been subjected was now apparent !)y the tiehl
"being rent, and its point broken into fragment?, which
were speedily heaped up in a pyramid, tliirty-ilve feet
in heiglit, upon the very summit of whicli tliere ap-
peared a huge mass, bearing the impression of the
planks and bolts of the vessel's bottom."

Availing themselves of a break in the ice, the ships
were moved to an anchorage between the islands con-
tiguous to the Cloven Cliff; and on the 28th of June,
anchored in fifteen tathoms water, near Yogel Sang.
On the islandri they found plenty of game, and eitlei-
ducks.

The island of Yogel Sang alone supplied the crews
with forty reindeer, which were in such high condition
that the fat upon the loins of some measured from four
to six inches, and a carcass, ready for being dressed,
weighed 285 pounds. Later in the season, the deer
were, however, so lean that it was rare to meet with any
fat upon them at all.

On the Gth of July, finding the ice had been driven
to the northward, the ships again put to sea, and Capt.
Ijuchan determined to prove, by a desperate effort,
what advance it was possible to make by dragging the
vessels througli the ice whenever the smallest openino-
occurred. This laborious experiment was performecl
by fixing large ropes to iron hooks driven into the ice,
and by heaving upon them with the windlass, a party
removing obstructions in the channel with saws. Eut
in spite of all their exertions, the most northerly posi-
tion attained was 80° 37' N. Although fastened to tlu)
ice, the ships were now drifted bodily to the southward
by the prevailing current. They were- also much in-
jured by the pressure of hummocks and fields of ice.

On the 10th of July, Captain Beechey tells us, the
Trent sustained a squeeze which made her rise four
feet, and heel over five streaks ; and on the 15th and
16th, both vessels suffered considerable damage. " On
that occasion," he says, "we observed a field fifteen
feet in thickness break up, and the pieces pile upon

VOYAOK OF BUCIIAN AND FRANKIJN.

licli the
•he Held
S whieh
ive feet
lere ap-
ot' the

le ships
ds con-
)t' June,

d eidei-

16 crews
^ndition
om four
dressed,
he deer
vith any

I driven

d Capt.

effort,

;ing the

openino-

brmed

the ice,

a partv

Eiit

y posi-

d to the

thward

uch in-

ice.

us, the

se four

th and

"On

fifteen

3 upon

'each other to a great height, until they upset, when they
rolled over witli a tremendous crash. Ihe ice near the
■phipswas piled up above their bulwarks. Fortunately,
^he vessels rose to the pressure, or they must have had
Itheir sides forced in. The Trent received her greatest
(damage upon the quarters, and was so twisted that the
(floors of all the cabins flew open, and the panels ot
I onie started in the frames, while her false stern-post
ivas moved three inches, and her timbers cracked to a
Biost serious extent. The Dorothea suffered still more :
%ome of her beams were sprung, and two planks on the
lower deck were split fore and aft, and doubled up, and
ghe otherwise sustained serious injury in her hull. It
^-as in vain that we attempted any relief; our puny
efforts were not even felt, though continued for ei^ht
hours with unabated zeal ; and it was not until the tide
changed that the smallest effect was produced. When,
jiowever, that occurred, the vessels righted and settled
in the water to their proper draught."
. From the 12 th to the 19th, they were closely beset
l^ith ice. For nine successive days following this the
jprews were occupied, night and day, in endeavoring to
ixtricate the ships, and regain the open sea. Thinking
ae had given the ice a fair trial here, the commander
letermined vipon examining its condition tow^ard the
istern coast of Greenland, and in the event of finding
efiually impenetrable there, to proceed round the
nith cape of Spitzbergen, and make an attempt be-
tween that island and Nova Zembla.
4 On the 30th of July, a sudden gale came on, and
|brought down the main body of the ice upon them, so
^hat the ships were in such imminent danger that their
|>nly m 3ans of safety was to take refuge among it — a
)ractice which has been resorted to Ijy whalers in ex-
reme cases — as their only chance of escaping destruc-
ion.
The following is a description of the preparation
lade to withstand the terrible encounter, and the hair-
)readth escape from the dangers : —
" In order to avert the effocta of this as much as pes-

I'KiXiKKSS 01-' AKCllC DlSCuVKliY.

biblo, u ciihle was (.'lit up into thirty -t'uet Iriiy-tlis, aiul
those, with phites of iron luur feut sqiiaiv, which liud
been supplied to \is as feiidej's, to<j;'ether with isoiiio
walrug' Iiides, were luui<^ round the vessels, es2)eeially
about the bows. The masts, at the same time, were se-
cui:ed with additional ropes, and the hatches were bat-
tened and nailed down. Jjy tlie time these precautions
liad been taken, our approach to the breakers only left
us the alternative of either pernuttinf:; the ships to be
drifted broadside against the ice, and so to take their
chance, or of endeavoring- to force fairly into it by put-
ting before tlie wind. At length, the hopeless state of
a vessel placed broadside against so formidable a body
became a})parent to all, and we resolved to attempt
the latter expedient."

Eagerly, but in Miin, v/as the general line of the pads
Bcanned, to lind one ]>lace more open than the other.
All parts appeared to l)e e^pially impenetrable, and to
present one unbroken line of furious breakers, in which
immense pieces of ice were heaving and subsiding wit! ^
the waves, and dasliing together with a violence whicli
nothing apparently but a solid body could withstand,
occasioning such a noise that it was with the greatest
difficulty the officers could make their orders heard bv
the crew.

The fearful aspect of this appalling scene is thue
sketched by Captain Beechey : —

"' 'No language, I am convinced, can convey an ade-
quate idea of the terrific grandeur of the effect now pro-
duced by the collision of the ice and the tempestuous
ocean. The sea, violently agitated and rolling its moun-
tainous waves against an opposing body, is at all times
a sublime and awful sight ; but when, in addition, it
encounters immense masses, which it has set in motion
with a violence equal to its own, its effect is prodigi-
ously increased. At one moment it bursts upon these
icy fragments and buries them many feet beneath its
wave, and the next, as the buoyancy of the* depressed
body struggles for reascendancy, the water rushes in
foaming cataracts over its edges ; while every indi-

/ .

Voyage of lin^uAN am> ihj^^av.

h^:, aiui
ch had

I sumo
pecially
vcre Hc-
ere bat-
'autiuiis
•uly left
>s to be
ke their
by put-
state of

a body
attempt

he pacl^
e otlier.
, and to

II ^vhich
iiig witli

M'liich
istand,
crreatef^l
ard bv

is thue

an ade-

ow prtH

lestuoiis

momi-

1 times

ition, it

motion

3rodigi-

n these

ath its

pressed

lies in

J indi-

vidual mass, rockino; and laboring in its bbd, grinds
against and contends with its o})ponent, until one is
ei'tlier split with the shock or ui)heaved upon the sur-

8 face of the other. Kor is this collision conlinod to any

I i)articular spot ; it is going on as far as the sight can
reacii ; and when from tliis convulsive scene below, the
eye is turned to the extraordi^ii'*v appearance of the
'blink in the sky above, whei cue unnatural clear-
ness of a calm and silvery atmosphere presents itself,
bounded by a dark, hard line of stormy clouds, such aa

^at this moment lowered over our masts, as if to mark
the confines within which the efibrts of man would be
of no avail. The reader may imagine the sensation of
awe wliicli nnist accompany that of grandeur in tlio
mind of the beholder."

•••If ever," continues the narrator, "the fortitude of
eeamen was fairly tried, it was assuredly not less eo oft

• this occasion ; and I will not conceal tlio pride I felt in
.^witnessirig tlie bold and decisive tone in which tho
unleis were issued ])y the commander (the present
Captain Sir John Franklin) of our little vessel, and tho
promptitude and steadiness with which they were oxo*
cuted ))y the crew."
* As the laboring vessel flew before the gal6> sho eooa

r' eared the scene of danger.
"Each person instinctively secured hit own hold,
ind Avith his eyes fixed upon the masts, awaited in
jpreathless anxiety the moment of concussion.
;M " It soon arrived, — the brig, (Trent) cutting her way
pirough the light ice, came in violent contact with the
Inain body. In an instant we all lost our footing ; the
. Aiasts bent with the impetus, and the cracldng timbers
^om below bespoke a pressure which was calculated to
^waken our serious apprehensions. The vessel stag-
ired under the shock, and for a moment seemed to
jcoil ; but the next wave, curling up under her coun-
jr, drove her about her own length within the margin
)f the ice, where she gave one roll, and was immedi-
litely thrown broadside to the wind by the succeeding
7ave, which beat furiously against her stem, ana

PKOGRESS OF AKCTIC DISCOVERY.

brought licr lee-side in contact with tlio main bod}',
leaving her weather-side exposed at the same time to
a piece of ice about twice her own dimensions. Tliis
unfortimate occu"»*ence prevented the vessel penetrat-
ing sufficiently far into the ice to escape the effect of
the gale, and placed her in a situation wliere she was
assaued on all sides by battering-rams, if I may use
the expression, every one of which contested the small

Siace which she occupied, and dealt such unrelenting
ows, that there appeared to be scarcely any possibil-
ity of savin^nj Iier from foundering. Literally tossed
from piece to piece, we had nothing left but patiently
to abide the issue ; for we could scarcely keep our feet,
much less render any assistance to the vessel. The mo-
tion, indeed, was so great, that the ship's bel], which, in
the heaviest gale of wind, had never struck of itself,
now tolled so continually, that it was ordered to ho
muffled, for the purpose of escaping the unpleasant as
Bociation it was calculated to produce.

" In anticipation of the worst, we determined to at
tempt placing the launch upon the ice under the lee,
and hurried into her such provisions and stores as could
at the moment be got at. Serious doubts were reason-
ably entertained of the boat being able to live among
the confused mass by which we were encompassed ; yet
as this appeared to be our only refiige, we clung to it
with all the eagerness of a last resource."

From the injury the vessel repeatedly received, it
became very evident that if subjected to this concus-
sion for any time, she could not hold together long ; the
only chance of escape, therefore, appeared to depend
upon getting before the wind, and penetrating further
into the ice.

To effect this with any probability of success, it be-
came necessary to set more head-sail, though at the
risk of the masts, already tottering with the pressm-e
of that which was spread. By the expertness of the
eeamen, more sail was spread, and under this additional
pressure of canvass, the ship came . into the desired
position, and with the aid of an enormous mass under

the
thi(
and
I
pro
the
to \
the
hu
cnil
tun
disii
sust
, For
' usel
, lor
anc
suul
^ cent

•

' tliev

T •

Iinii
liav<
^the
Upo

to t:

pate
vant [
be a
estir
com
crew
tere(

)Ut 1

)y tj

VOYAGE OF BUCIIAN AND FRANKLIN.

61.

body,
;ime to
. This
jiietrat-
sffect of
ihe was
lay use
e small
leuting
►ossibil-

tossed
itiently
•ur feet,
riie mo-
liicli, in
•f itself,
I to Lo
sant as

to at
he lee,
s could
reason-
amono-
ed; yet
ig to it

Lved, it
conciis-
tho
depend
further

, it be-
at the
ressui'e
of the
litional
desired
I under

the stern, she split a small field of ice, fourteen feet in
thickness, which had hitherto impeded her progress,
and effected a passage for herself between the pieces.
In this improved position, by carefully placing the
protecting fenders between the ice and the ship's sides,
tlie strokes were much diminished, and she managed
to weatlier out the gale, but lost sight of her consort in
the clouds of spray which were tossed about, and the
huge intervening masses of ice among which they were
embayed. On the gale moderating, the ships were for-
tunately got once more into an open sea, although both
disabled, and one at least, the Dorothea, which had
sustained the heavy shocks, in a foundering condition.
For the main object of the expedition they were now
useless, and, both being in a leaky state, they bore up
for Fair Haven, in Spitzbergen. In approaching the
■ anchorage in South Gat, the Trent bounded over a
sunken rock, and struck hard, but this, after their re-
cent danger, was thought comparatively light of.
On examining the hulls of the vessels, it was found
' they had sustained frightful injuries. The intermediate
•lining of felt between the timbers and planks seems to
liave aided greatly in enabling the vessels to sustain
'the repeated powerful shocks they had encountered.
lUpon consulting with his officers. Captain Buchan came
fto the opinion that the most prudent course, was to
Jpatcli up the vessels for their return voyage. Lieuten-
fant Franklin preferred an urgent request that he might
be allowed to proceed in his own vessel upon the inter-
^esting service still unexecuted ; but this could not be
? complied with, in consequence of the hazard to the
acrew of proceeding home singly in a vessel so shat-
Jtered and unsafe as the Dorothea. After refitting, they
put to sea at the end of August, and reached England
Dy the middle of October.

Franklin's First Land Expedition, 1819-21.

In 1819, on the recommendation of the Lords of the
j Admiralty, Capt. Franklin was appointed to command

rjcoGKKss oK Ai:<;ii(; DiscovKia'.

all overltiiid expedition tiY>ni Hudson's I>uy to tiio iioi'tli-
cni sliores ot* Aniurit'ii, for the purpose ot* deterniiiiiiii^
the latitudes iind loni^itudes, {uid exploring the const ot*
the continent esistwiird from thy Copperndno Kiver. ])r.
John Kichardson, li. N., and two Admiralty ]\lidship-
men, Mr. Georii;o Back, (who had been out on the jxtliir
cxi)C(lition, in tlie previous year, in H. M. S. Trent,) and
Mr. Itobert Hood, were placed under his orders. Pre-
vious to his departure from London, Capt. Franklin ob-
tained all the information and advice possible from Sii*
• Alex. Mackenzie, one of the oidy two ])erson8 who had
yet ex])lored those shores. On the 23d of May, the party
embarked at Gravesend, in the Prince of Wales, belon*;'-
in^ to the Hudson's Bay Ci)mpany, which immediately
got under weif»;h in company with her consorts, the Kd-
dystone and Wear. Mr. Back, who w^as left on shore by
accident in Yarmouth, succeeded in catching tfie ship at
Htromness. i)u the 4th of August, in hit. 59° 58' X.,
and long. 59" 5o' W., they first fell in with large icebergs.
On tlie following day, the height of one was ascertained
to be 149 feet. After a stormy and perilous voyage the}'
reached the anchorage at York Flats on the 30th of
August.

On the 9th of September, Capt. Franklin and his party
left York Factory in a boat by the way of the rivers and
lakes for Cumberland House, another of the Company's
posts, which they reached on the 22d of October.

On the 19th of January, Franklin set out in comjDany
with Mr. Back and a seanum named Hepburn, with pro-
visions for fifteen days, stowed in two sledges, on their
journey to Fort Chipewyan. Dr. Richardson, Mr. Ilood
and Mr. Conolly accompanied them a short distance.
After touching at different posts of the Company, they
reached their destination safely on the 26th of Marcli,
after a winter's journey of 857 miles. The greatest diffi-
culty experienced by Uie travelers was the labor of walk-
ings in snow shoes, a weight of between two and three
pounds being constantly attached to galled feet and
sw^elled ankles.

On the 13th of July, they were joined by Dr. Richard-

IJ;ANuI.U\ fc5 Vnv I I.AM' K.M'KDITIuN.

nurtli-
n'mlii.ii;

U'AUt of

ir. 1)1'.

idsliip-
ii ])<>kir
it,) and
. r re-
el in ob-
•oiii !^ii'
ho liud
ic piu'ty
Ijc'lon*;'-
Kllutcly
the Kd-
lioi-e by
;shi|) at
58' ^.,
t:eber^-s.
'rtiilned
i^e they
30th of

|is party
ers uud
ipiiny's
ir.

iinpaiiy
ith pro-
»n their
•. Ilood
tstance.
|y, they
[March,
!St diffi-
|f walk-
three
let and

kcliard-

Foii tiiid Mr. Hood, wlio Iiiid iikkK' u wvy expeditious
jouriU'V from (.'uinl»eriiiiid Ib-ust'; they had only ouu
'(hiy's provisioiiri Icl't, the peHiiuiean they hud received at
the [)t»sts bein;^'Ho mouldy that tliey were obli«rt.(j to leave
it I)ehin<l. Ari'an,i,^eiiieut8 were now made tor their juur-
iK'y n«.rth\vard. Sixteen Canadian voya,i;<'urs were eii-
H'.i'i;'ed, and a (.'Idpewyan woman and two interjjreters
were to be taken on from Great Slave Lake. The whole
stock (»f ])rovi.slons they could obtain before startin*,^ was
oidy .-ullieient for one day's sui>ply, exchi.sive of two bar-
rels of Hour, three cases of preserved meats, some choco-
late, iirruw-root and i)ortable soup, which had been
bn )UL;-ht froui Enii,hind, and were kept as a ivserve for the
jouiiiey to the coast in the followni^ season; seventy
])ouii(ls of deer's ilesh and a little barley were all that
', the Company's ollicers could give them. The i>rovisions
* Wi'i'e distribnti'd anionui; three canoes, and tlie ]iart.y set
j||ofr in t(o<»d spirits on the ISth of fFuly. They had to
ipinivke an inroad very soon on their preserved meats, f(.»r
^tlny were very unfortunate in their fisl in<^. (Jn the
CvSith of July, however, they were successful in shooting
a buffalo in the Salt liiver, after giving him fourteen
balls. At ^[(.(ose Deer Island they got sup])lies from
g;he Iludsoirs Bay and iSTorth West Companies' otlicers,
lid on the 27th set out again on their journey, reaching
'ort Providence by the 29tli.
Shortly after they had an interview with a celebrated
il iTitluential Indian chief, named Akaitcho, who was
furnish them with guides. Another Canadian voya-
eur was there engaged, and the party now consisted of
■le ofiieers already named, Mr. Fred. Wentzel, clerk of
le N. AV. Fur Company, who joined them here, John
[epburn, the English seaman, seventeen Canatlian voy-
■^geurs, (one of whom, named Michel, was an Iroquois,)
ind three Indian interpreters, besides the wives of three
J)f the voyageurs who had been brought on for the pur-
?.:|)ose of making clothes and shoes for the men at tho
nter establishment. The whole number were twenty-
ine, exclusive of three children. I give the list of tho?e
hose names occui' most frequently in the narrative:

s?-^
'*■%

rnooKirs oK Ai:(Tic Discovintv.

tl. Ji. Jk'lan^c'i*, Peltier, Sitloiuun Holaii^cr, Siinmndre,
J>t'in)it, iViTiiuU, Antuiiio Fuiitiino, .l>euu[)urlant, Vuil-
laiit, Credit, Adam St. Germain, iiiteri»reter; Aii«i;iistu8
and Junius, KKquinuiux interpreters. They Imd j)rovis-
ions fur ten da}'.s' consumption, besides a little choeolato
and tea, viz : two casks of tlour, 200 dried reindeer
tonj^ues, some dried moose meat, })ortal)le soup, and a
little arrow-root. A small extra canoe was jjrovided for
the women, and the journey for the Coppermine lliver
was commenced on tiie 2d of Au<^ust. The i)arty met
. with many hardships — were placed on short diet — an<l
Bome of the Canadians broke out into open rebellion,
refusin;^ to T>roceed farther. However, they were at last
calmed, ancl arrived on the 20th of August at Fort Ya\-
terprise, on Winter Lake, which, by the advice of their
Indian guides, they determined on making their winter
quarters. The total length of the voyage from Chipe-
wyan was 552 miles; and after leaving Fort Providence,
they luid 21 miles of portage to pass over. As the men
had to traverse each portage with a load of 180 lbs.,
and return three times light, they walked, in the whole,
upward of 150 miles.

In consequence of the refusal of Akaitcho and Lis
party of Indians to guide and accompany them to the
sea, because, as they alledged, of the approach of win-
ter, and the imminent danger, Captain Franklin was
obliged to abandon proceeding that season down tho
river, and contented himself with dispatching, on the
29th, Mr. Back and Mr. Hood, in a light canoe, with
St. Germain as interpreter, eight Canadians, and one
Indian, furnished with eight days' provisions — all that
could be spared.

They returned on the 10th of September, after hav-
ing reached and coasted Point Lake. In the mean time,
Franklin and Richardson, accompanied by J. Hepburn
and two Indians, also made a pedestrian excursion tow-
ard the same quarter, leaving on the 9th of September,
and returning on the fourteenth. The whole party
spent a long winter of ten months at Fort Enterprise,
depending upon the fish they could catch, and the sue
ee>?s of their Indian hunters, for food.

FUANKI.IN rt in:sl I, AM) JJM'KDITIO.V.

h.)

iiandrc,
t, Vuil-
ii«;'iistli8
l)ruvis-
locolato
(.'iiidee'r
), uiul II
idcd tc»i'

Kivcr
rty iiit't
.'t — and
ilu'llion,
e at last
^ort Kn-
ot' their
r winter

1 Chipe-
/idence,
the men
^80 lbs.,

whole,

ind his
to the
of win-
in was
wn the
on the
)e, with
nd one
all that

■er hav-
n time,
epbnrn
on tow-
;ember,
party
3rprise,
be sue

Oil the <Uh of OctulHT, the ofllcers (piitti'd their tents
f(»r;i«rond lofj house which lia<l l>een built. The ehiy
with which tne walls and roof were pla-tcred, ha<l to
bo tciu[)i'ri'il bet'ori' tlie iuv, with Mutcr, and tVo/.i- as it:
was dau1)cd on ; but at'tciwanl cracke<l in such a num-
jK-r, as to a<hnit the wind tVoui every (juartcr. Still
[the new abo«k', witli a good lire of fagots in the capa-
l"Us clay-built ehimney, was considered (piite conifort-
ililc whrii coiiiparetl with the c'lllly tents.
The reindeer are found on tli'j baidvs of the Copper-
^\\\H\ Kiver early in May, as they then go to the sea-
oast to bring f)rth their young. Ihey usually retire
uin tile coast in .Inly and Angu-t, rnt m Oeto' m*, and
helter themselves in the woods during winter. Before
tilt' niitMle of October, tlie carcasses of on hun<lred
^eer had been secured in their store-hoi. \ together w'ui
^ne tijousand pounds of suet, and S(.me dried meat;
Jtnd efijhtv deer were stowed away at various distances
0roiii their liouse, €}i cache. This placing provisions
Sf' en cache," is merely burying and protecting it from
%'olves and other depredators, by heavy loads of wood
^r stone.

On the ISth of October, Mr. Back and Mr. Wentzel,
^cojn])anied by two Canadian voyageurs, two Indians
d their wives, set ont for Fort Providence to make
e necessary arrangements for transporting the stores
,..;piey expected from Cumbc-hpid liouse, and to see if
me further snpplies mighr. r -t be obtained from the
tablishments on Slave Lake. Dispatches for Eng-
jand were also forwarded by them, tletailing tlie ])ro-
ress of the expedition np to this date. By the end of
he month the men -lau also completed a bonse for
beinselves, 34 feet by IS. On the 26th of October,
(Akaitcho, and his Indian party of hnnters, amounting
with women and children to forty sonls, came in, owing
to the deer having migrated sontliward. This added
o the daily nnmber to be provided for, and by this time
heir ammunition was nearly expended.

The lishing failed as the weatlier became more severe,
and was given np on the 5th of JSTovemlier. Abont

Ui.,

l-KDiJiilu^o <)!-■ AliCTJU DISCOVKUV

1200 wliite iisli, of from two to three pouu<.l>, liiid Ikmmi
procured durlni;' the season. The lish froze as thev
were taken from the nets, becoming in a short time a
solid mass of ice, so that a blow or two of the hatchet
would easily split them open, when the intestines miglit
be removed in one lump. If thawed before the lire,
even after being frozen for nearly two days, the tibh
would recover their animation.

On the 23d of November, tliey were gratiiiod by tho
•a23pearance of one of the Canadian voyageurs who lui'l
set out with Mr. Back. His locks were nuitted with
snow, and he was so encrusted with ice from head to
foot, tliat they could scarcely recognize him. He re-
'ported that they had had a tedious and fatiguing jour-
ney to Fort Providence, and for some days were desti-
tute of provisions. Letters were brought from England
to the preceding April, and quickly was the packet
tliawed to get at the contents. The newspapers con-
veyed the intelligence of the death of* George 111. The
advices as to the expected stores were disheartening;
of ten bales of ninety pounds each, five had been I At
by some n\ismanagement at the Grand Rapid on tho
Sattkatchawan. On the 28th of November, St. Ger-
main the interpreter, Avith eight Canadian voyageur^;,
and four Indian hunters, were sent ofi' to bring uj^ tlie
stores from Fort Providence.

On the 10th of December, Franklin managed to get
rid of Akaitcho and his Indian party, by representiiii,'
to them the impossibility of maintaining them. The
leader, however, left them his mother and two female
attendants; and old Kaskarrah, the guide, with his wife
and daughter, remained behind. This daughter, wlio
was designated " Green Stockings," from her dress, was
considered a great beauty by her tribe, and althouoh
but sixteen, had belonged successively to two husbands,
and would probably have been the wife of many more,
if her mother had not required her services as a nuri^o.

Mr. Hood took a good likeness of the yoimg lady,
but her mother was somewhat averse to her sitting for
it, fearing that " her daughter's likeness would induce

FliANKLIN S FIKST LAND KXI'KI^ITloN.

tlu' (Jroat Chief wlio resided in Engliiiid to send for the

■iu'iiiul I "

The diet of the party in their winter abode consisted
ihiiust entirely of reindeer meat, varied twice a week
>y lish, and occasionally by a little tiour, but they had
10 vegetables of any kind. On Sunday morning they
uid a"en|) of chocolate ; but their greatest luxury was

1 • 1 <i 11 i.„,i i.„:„. „ A. — ..It!.. 1.

La. wliich

•ithout suicar

they regularly bad twice a day, althougli
%ar. Candles 'were formed of reindeer fat

lid sti-ips of cotton shirts; and Hei)burn acquired con-
idcniblc skill in the manufacture of poap from the wood
•lies, fat and salt. The stores were anxiously looked
:)!•, and it was hoped they would have arrived by New
fear's Day, (1821.) so as to have kept the festival. As
' >vas, they c juld only receive a little Hour and fat, both
f wliich were considered great luxuries.

On the 15tli, seven of the men arrived with two kegs
f rum, one barrel of powder, sixty pounds of ball, two

lis of tobacco, and some clothing.

'* They had been twenty-one days on tlieir march from

ave Lake, and the labor they underwent was suffi-
ently evinced by their sledge collars having worn out

e shoulders of tlieir coats. "Their loads weighed from
xty to ninety i^ounds each, exclusive of their bedding

(1 provisions, which at starting must have been at least

nuich more. We were much rejoicetl at their arrival,

d i)roceeded forthwith to pierce the spirit cask, and
sue to each of the household the portion of rum which
ad been promised on the first day of the year. The

irits, which were proof, were frozen; but after stand-
g at the fire for some time they flowed out, of the

nsistence of honey. The temperature of the liquid,
iven in this state, was so low as instantly to convert
ito ice the moisture which condensed on the surface of
le dram-glass. The fingers also adhered to the glass,

d would doul)tless have been speedily frozen had they
3en kept in contact with it ; yet each of the voyageurs
vallowed his dram without experiencing the slightest
■convenience, or complaining of toothache."

It appeared that the Canadians had tapped the rum-

PKOGKESS OF AKOTIC! DISCOVEKY.

cask on their journey, and helped themselves rather
freely.

On the 27th, Mr. Wentzel and St. Germain arrived,
with two Esquimaux interpreters who had been engac!:e(l,
possessed of euphonious names, representing tlie belly
and the ear, but wliich had been Anglicised into Au-
gustus and Junius, being the mouths they had respec-
tively arrived at Fort Cliurchill. The former spoke
English. They brought four dogs with them, which
proved of great use during the season in drawing hi
wood for fuel.

Mr. Back, at this time, the 24th of December, had
gone on to Chipewyan to procure stores. On the 12tli
of February, another party of six men was sent to Fort
Providence to bring up the remaining supplies, and
these retuined on the 5tli of March. Many of the cac/irs
of meat which had been buried early in the winter were
found destroyed by the M'olves ; and some of these aid-
msSfs prowled nightly about the dwellings, even ventnr-
in^ upon the roof of their kitchen. The rations were
reduced from eight to the short allowance of five ounces
of animal food per day.

On the 17th of March, Mr. Back returned from Fort
Chipewyan, after an absence of nearly five months,
during which he had performed a journey on foot of
more than eleven hundred miles on snow shoes, witli
only the slight shelter at night of a blanket and a deer
skin, with the thermometer frequently at 40° and onco
at 57°, and very often passing several days without
food.

Some very interesting traits of generosity on the part
of .lie Indians are recorded by Mr. Back. Often thev
gave up and would not taste of fish or birds which thev
caught, with the touching remark, " We are accustomed
to starvation, and you are not."

Such passages as the following often occur in Li^
narrative : — " One of our men caught a fish, which, with
Jhe assistance of some weed scraped from tlie roclvN
(tripe de roche) which forms a glutinous substance, made
us a tolerable supper ; it was not of the most clioice kind,

FRANKLIN S FIKST LAND EXPliDITION.

J ratlicr

arrived,
ngagod,
le belly
iito Aii-
respec-
ir spolsc
I, which
Aving in

ber, liad
the 12tli
t to Fort
lies, and
le caches
iter were
hese aiii-
1 ventur-
)ns were
e ounces

'om Fort

mouths,

foot Cif

pet<, witli

Id a deer

md oiici'

without

the part
ffcen tht'V
lich tht'V
lustonied

in lii^

ich, witli

le rocl<^.

3e, made

kind,

het fr«'>'»d eiMu.ih for Imngry men. Wliile we were eat-

piii;' it, 1 perceived one of the wojiien l)usily employed

;crupinp; an old skin, the contents of which her luisband

i)resented ns with, They consisted of pounded meat,

lilt, and a greater proportion of Indian's and deer's hair

lian either ; and, though such a mixture may not appear

ji}\'\ alluring to an English stomach, it was thought a

f relit Inxury after three days' privation in tlicso cheer-

^ss regions of America."

To retnrn to the proceedings of Fort Enterprise. On
lie 23d of March, the last of the winter's stock of deer's
lent was expended, and the party were compelled to
•nsume a little pounded meat, which had been saved
)r making pemniican. The nets scarcely produced any
^h, and their meals, which had hitherto been scanty
pough, were now restricted to one in the day.
The poor Indian families about the house, consisting
•inci])ally of sick and infirm women and children, suf-
red even more privation. They cleared away the
jiow on the site of the Autumn encampment to look for
)nos, deer's feet, bits of liide, and other oftal. " AVhen
(iSliys Franklin) we beheld them gnawing the ])ieces of
hldt', and pounding the bones for the jmrpose of extract-
ing sonie nourishment from them by boiling, we regret-
ted our inability to relieve them, but little thought that
we should ourselves be afterward driven to tlie neces-
1^^ of eagerly collecting these same bones, a second
time from the dung-hill."

M)n^ the 4th of June, 1821, a first party set off from

K winter quarters for Point Lake, and the Coppermine

iver, under the charge of Dr. Richardson, consisting,

dl, voyageurs and Indians, of twenty -three, exclusive

children. Each of the men carried*^al)out 80 lbs., be-

les his own personal baggage, weighing nearly as

Ich more. Some of the ])ai'ty dragged their loads on

dges, others preferred carrying their burden on their

>ks. On the 13tli, Dr. Eichardson sent back most of

men; and on the 11th Franklin dispatched Mr.

jntzel and a party with the canoes, which had been

►aired. Following the water-course as far as pi-acti-

s#.-

-4.

-4i4

"'Wvfp^

I'lIOGKESS OF AllCriC DISCOVERY.

cable to Winter Lake, Franklin followed himsolf with
Jlepbiirn, three Canadians, two Indian hunters, and
tlie two Esquimaux, and joined Dr. liichardson on the
22d. On the 25th they all resumed their journey, and,
as they proceeded down the river, were fortunate in
killing, occasionally, several musk oxen.

On the 15th they got a distinct view of the sea from
the summit of a hill ; it appeared choked with ice and
full of islands. About this time they fell in with small
parties of Esquimaux.

On the 19th Mr. Wentzel departed on his return for
Slave Lake, taking with him four Canadians, who had
been discliarged for the ^^urpose of reducin<| the expen-
diture of provisions as much as possible, and di.spatclic^
to be forwarded to England, lie was also instructed
to cause the Indians to deposit a relay of pr«^)visions at
Fort Enteri^rise, ready for tlie j^arty siiould they return
tliat way. The remainder of the i^arty, including offi-
cers, amounted to twenty ])ersons. The distance that
had been traversed from Fort Enterprise to the moutli
of the river was about 331: miles, and the canoes had t'
be dra<r2:cd 120 miles of this.

Two coiis])icuou8 capes were named by Franklin after
Ilearne and Mackenzie ; and a river which falls into tlie
sea, to tlie westward of the Cop2:)ermine, he called aftir
his companion, Richardson.

On the 21st of July, Franklin and his party cmbarkc<l
in their two canoes to navigate the Polar Sea, to tlie
eastward, liaving with them provisions for fifteen dav.s

On the 25th they doubled a bluff cape, which w;i^
named after Mr. Earrow, of the Admiralty. An open-
ing on its eastern side received the appellation of Imiian
Harbor, and a group of islands were called after Piv-
lessor Jameson. Within the next fortnight, additiori^
were made to their stock of food by a feW- deer and oii;.
or tv.'o bears, which were shot. Being less fortunate
afterward, and with no prospect of increasing their ?ii]-
]dy of provision, the daily allowance to eacli man wii^
limited to a handful of pemmican and a small portion
•+' portable soup. ' •

jy return
Yiwj: ofii-
TK'C that
ic moiitl:
}s bad t '

Idin after
into the
led after

nnltarketl

■U, to till

;eii davr.
111 eh "\V!i>
n opc'i!-

if Illlliai:

rter Pi"-

kdditiuii-
I* and cii..
brtniiatc

;lieir ^W

man wa-
porti'-'i!

FILVNKLIN S FIKST LA^;i) KXI'IODITION.

Oil tliG morning of tlie 5th of Annjnst tlioy came to
the mouth of a river blocked up with shoals, which
Franklin named after his friend and companion Back.
The time spent in exploring Arctic and Melville
Sounds and Bathurst Inlet, and tlie failure of meeting
witli Esquimaux from whom provisions could be ol>
taiued, precluded any possibility of reaching Repulse
]5;iy, and therefore having but a day or two's provisions
]' it, Franklin considered it prudent to turn back after
]\':u'hing Point Turnagain, having sailed nearly 000
jvogi-apiiical miles in tracing the deeply indented coast
•f (Joronation Gulf from tlie Coppermine River. On
he liiid August, the return voyage was commenced,
he boats making for Hood's River by the way of the
" I'ctic Sound, and being taken as far up the stream as
ossible. On the 31st it was found impossible to pro-
eed with them farther, and smaller canoes were made,
uitiible for crossing any of the rivers that might ob-
|i^r;i ■[ their progress. The weight carried by each man
Jviis about 00 lbs., and with this tliey progressed at the
ite of a mile an hour, including rests.
On the 5th of September, having nothing to eat, the
t piece of pemmican and a little arrow-root having
rnied a scanty supper, and being without the means
of making a fire, they remained in bed all day. A se-
vere snow-storm lasted two days, and the snow even
drifted into their tents, covcrim:^ their blankets several
inches. " Our suffering (says Fi-anklin) from cold, in a
<|omfortless canvass tent in such weather, with the tein-
>'rature at 20°, and witliout fire, will easilv be im-
ined ; it was, however, less than that which we felt
'om liungcr."

Weak from fasting, and their garments stiffened with

e frost, after packinor tjieir frozen tents and bedclothes

e ]-)ooY travelers again set out on the 7th.

After feeding almost exclusively on several species

Gyropliora, a lichen known as trlj)e de roche^ wiiich

farcely allayed the pangs of liunger, on the 10th " they

)t a good meal l)y killing a musk ox. To skin ancl

It up the animal was the vvoi-k of a few minutes. The

I'KCGKKSS 01-' AlCCTIC DISCO VEUV.

contents of its Btomiich were devoured upon tiie spot,
and tlio raw intestines, which were next attacked, were,
])r(>noiinced by the most delicate amongst us to be ex-
cellent."

"Wearied and worn out with toil and suffering, nuiny
of the party got careless and indifferent. One of the
canoes was broken and abandoned. With an improvi-
dence scarcely to be credited, three of the fishing-net.s
were also thrown away, and the floats burnt.

On the 17th they managed to allay the pangs of hun-
ger by eating pieces of singed hide, and a little trlj)'- <-l
roclie. This and some mosses, with an occasional sol-
itary partridge, formed their invariable food ; on verv
many days even this scanty sui)ply could not be obtained,
and their appetites l)ecame ravenous.

Occanionally they picked up pieces of skin, and a
few bones of deer which had been devoured by thu
wolves in the previous spring. The bones were ren-
dered friable by burning, and now and then their oM
shoes were added to the repast.

On the 20th they reached abend of the Coppermiiu'.
which terminated in Point Lake. The second cauuf
bad l)ecn demolished and abandoned by the beai-ers on
the 23d, and they were thus left without any means of
water transport across the lakes and river.

On this day tlie carcass of a deer was discovered in
tlie cleft of a rock, into whicli it had fallen in the spriiia.
It was i)utrid, but little less acceptable to the poor st;ii'v-
ing travelers on that account; and a fire being kin-
dled a large portion was devoured on the spot, aftbr'l-
ing an unexpe'^'ted breakfast.

On the first of October one of tlie party, who LiK^
l)een out hunting, brought in the antlers and backboiii'
of anotlier deer, which had l)een killed in the summer,
The wolves and birds of prey had picked them clean,
but there still remained a quantity of the spinal niai'
row, whicli they had not been able to extract. Tlii-.
although putrid, was esteemed a valuable prize, aiii
the spine being divided into portions was distribute'!
equally. " After eating the marrow, (snyr? Frunkliri.i

franklin's first land expedition.

lie spot,
;d, Mcrci
be ex-

'X, many

3 of the

mpi'uvi-
ing-uets

of huTi-

iiial sol-
oil \(iv\-
btaliiL'iL

I, and ;i

by the

'ere ri'ii-

lieir <,>M

»erinl!R\
d caiit'C

leans ui'

ored ill

)!• st:ii'\ -
ng l<ii!-
, afi'or'i-

'llO l!U>'

aekboiir
iiniTiier.
11 clean,
lal niar-

which was so acrid as to excoriate the lips, we ren-
dered tlie bones friable by burning, and ate them also."

Tlie strength of the whole party now began to fail,
from the privation and fatigue which they endured. —
Fianklin was in a dreadfully debilitated state. Mr.
Hood was also reduced to a perfect shadow, from the
severe bowel-complaints which the tripe de roche never
tailed to give him. Back was so feeble as to require
the support of a stick in walking, and Dr. Eicharasou
hud lameness superadded to weakness.

.\. rude canoe was constructed of willows, covered
witli canvass, in which the party, one by one, managed
to reach in safetv the soutnern bank of the river on
the Jrth of October, and went supperless to bed. - On
the following morning, previous to setting out, the
whole party ate the remains of their old shoes, and
whatever scraps of leather they had, to strengthen their
stomachs for tne fatigue of the day's journey.

Mr. Hood now broke down, as did two or three more
of the party, and Dr. Eichardson kindly volunteered
to remain with them, while the rest pushed on to Fort
Enterprise for succor. Not being able to find any tripe
de roche^ they drank an infusion of the Labrador tea-
plant {Ledrum palustre^ var. decumhens^ and ate a
few morsels of burnt leather for supper. This contin-
ued to be a frequent occurrence.

Others of the party continued to drop down with fa-
tigue and weakness, until they were reduced to five
persons, besides Franklin. When they had no food or
nourishment of any kind, fchey crept under their blank-
ets, to drown, if possible, the gnawing pangs of hunger
and fatigue by sleep. At length they reached Fort En-
terprise, and to their disappointment and grief found
it a perfectly desolate habitation. There was no de-
posit of provision, no trace of the Indians, no letter
from Mr. Wentzel to point out where the Indians might
be found. "It would be impossible (says Franklin,) to
describe our sensations after entering this miserable
abode, and discovering how we had been neglected :
the whole party shed tears, not so much for our own

ff-

»..i

PKOtiKKtiS OF AKCnC DlfciCU\IiKY.

fate as for that of our friends in the rear, whose lives
depended entirely on our sending immediate relief
from this place." A note, however, was found here
from Mr. Eack, stating that he had reached the house
by another route two days before, and was going in
search of the Indians. If he was unsuccessful in find-
ing them, he proposed walking to Fort Providence,
and sending succor from thence, but he doubted whether
he or his party could perform the journey to that place
in their present debilitated state. Franklin and his
small party now looked round for some means of pres-
ent subsistence, and fortunately discovered several deer
skiLS, which had been thrown away during their foi-nier
residence here. The bones weix) gathered from the
heap of ashes ; these, with the skins and the addition
of tripe de rochc^ they considered would support life
tolerably well for a short time. The bones were quite
acrid, and the soup extracted from them, quite putrid,
excoriate ^ the mouth if taken alone, but it was some-
what milder when boiled with the lichen, and the mix-
ture was even deemed palatable with a little salt, of
which a cask had been left here in the spring. Tliey
procured fuel by pulling up the flooring of the rooms,
and water for cooking by melting the snow.

Augustus arrived safe after them, just as they were
sitting round the fire eating their supper of singed
skin.

Late on the 13th, Belanger also reached the house,
with a note from Mr. Back, stating that he had yet
found no trace of the Indians. The poor messenger
was almost speechless, being covered with ice and
nearly frozen to death, having fallen into a rapid, and
for the third time since the party left the coast, narrowly
escaped drowning. After being well rubbed, having
had his dress changed, and some warm soup given
him, he recovered sufficiently to answer the questions
put to him.

Under the impression that the Indians must be on
their way to Fort Providence, and that it would be
possible to overtake them, as they usually traveled

franklin's first land expedition.

"'ti

slowly with their farailies, and there being likewise a
prospect of killing deer about Reindeer Lake, where
they had been usually found abundant, Franklin de-
termined to take the route for that post, and sent word
to Mr. Back by Belanger to that effect on the 18th.

On the 20th of October, Franklin set out in com-
pany with Benoit and Augustus to seek relief, having
patched three pairs of snow shoes, and taken some
sinj^ed skin for their support. Poltier and Sam and re
had volunteered to remain at the house with Adam,
who was too ill to proceed. They were so feeble as
scarcely to be able to move. Augustus, the Esqui-
maux, tried for fish without success, so that their only
fare was skin and tea. At night, composing- them-
selves to rest, they lay close to each other for warmth,
but found the night bitterly cold, and the wind pierced
through their famished frames.

On resuming the journey next morning, Franklin
had the misfortune to break his snow-shoes, by falling
between two rocks. This accident prevented him from
keeping pace with the others, and in the attempt he
became quite exhausted ; unwilling to delay their pro-
gress, as the safety of all behind depended on their
obtaining early assistance and immediate supplies,
Franklin resolved to turn back, while the others
pushed on to meet Mr. Back, or, missing him, they
were directed to proceed to Fort Providence. Frank-
lin found the two Canadians he had left at the house
dreadfully weak and reduced, and so low spirited that
he had great difficulty in rallying them to any exer-
tion. As the insides of their mouths had become sore
from eating the bone-soup, they now relinquished the
use of it, and boiled the skin, which mode of dressing
was found more palatable than frying it. They had
pulled down nearly all their dwelling for fuel, to warm
themselves and cook their scanty meals. The tripe
de roehe, on which they had depended, now became
entirely frozen; and what was more tantalizing to
their perishing frames, was the sight of food within
their reach, which they could not procure. " "We saw

.^,

I'llOORESS OF AKCTIO DISCOVERY.

(snys Fnuiklin) a herd of rcirulocr sporting on tho
rivor, about lialf a mile from tho house ; they rc-
itijiined tlierc a long time, but none of the party felt
theinHelves strong enough to go after them, nor was
there one of us who could have lired a gun without
resting it."

While they were seated round the fire this evening,
discoursing about the anticipated relief, tho sound of
voices was heard, which was thought with joy to be
that of the Indians,' but, to their bitter disappoint-
ment, the debilitated frames and emaciated counte-
nances of Dr. Kichardson and Hepburn presented
themselves at the door. They were of course gladly
received, although each markecl the ravages which fam-
ine, care and fatigue had made on the other. Tho
Doctor particularly remarked the sepulchral tone of
the voices of his friends, which he requested them to
make more cheerful if possible, unconscious that his
own partook of the same key.

Hepburn having shot a partridgi , which was brought
to the house. Dr. Richardson tore out the feathers,
and having held it to the fire a few minutes, divided
it into six portions. Franklin and his three compan-
ions ravenously devoured their shares, as it was the
first morsel of flesh any of them liad tasted for thirty-
one days, unless, indeed, the small gristly particles
which they found adhering to the pounded bones m.ay
be termed flesh. Their spirits were revived by this
small supply, and tho Doctor endeavored to raise
them still higher by the prospect of Hepburn's being
able to kill a deer next day, as they had seen, and
even iired at, several near the house. He endeavored,
too, to rouse them into some attention to the comfort
of tlieir apartment. Having brought his Prayer-book
and Testament, some prayers, psalms, and portions
of scripture, appropriate to their situation, were read
out by Dr. Richardson, and they retired to their
blankets.

Early next morning,' the Doctor and Hepburn went
out in search of game ; but though they saw several

FItANKLIJS's VlKtiT LAUD EXl'HUnHjS,

lierds of deer, and fired some shots, they were not ro
jbrtuiiattt lis to kill any, being too weak to liohl their
l*\mA steadily. The cold compelled the tornier to re-
turn soon, but Hepburn perseveringly j>erBistud until
hito in tlie evening.

" My occupation, (continues Franklin) was to search
for 8kins under the snow, it being now our object iui-
iiuuliately to get all that we could; bnt 1 had not
Htreni]!;th to drag in more than two of those which were
witliiu twenty yards of the liouso, until the Doctor
cuiiie and at>8isted nie. Wo made up our stock to
twenty-six; but several of them were putrid, and
scarcely eatable, oven by men suffering the extremity
(»f famine. Peltier and Samandre continued very
weak and dispirited, and they wore unable to cut fire-
wood. Hepburn had, in consequence, that laborious
task to perform after he came back late from hunting.'*
To the exertions, honesty, kindness, and consideration
of this worthy man, the safety of most of the party is
to be attributed. And I may here mention that Sir
.Tolm Franklin, when he became governor of Van
Diemen's Land, obtained for him a good civil appoint-
ment. This deserving man, I am informed by Mr.
Ijarrow, is now in England, having lost his ofHce,
which, I believe, has been abolished. It is to bo
lioped something will be done for him by the govern-
ment.

After their usual supper of singed skin and bono
soup. Dr. Richardson acquainted Franklin wuth the
events that had transpired since their parting, particu-
larly with the afflicting circumstances attending the
death of Mr. Hood, and Michel, the Iroquois ; the par-
ticulars of which I shall now proceed to condense from
his narrative.

After Captain Franklin had bidden them farewell,
having no tripe de roc/ie they drank an infusion of the
country tea-plant, which was grateful from its warmth,
although it afforded no sustenance. They then retired
to bed, and kept to their blankets all next day, as the
Buow drift was so heavy as to prevent their lighting a

PROGRESS OF ARCTIO DISi

'B'

■#

firo with tho green and frozen willows, which were
their only fuel.

Through the extreme kindness and forethought of
a lady, the party, previous to leaving London, had
been furnished witn a small collection of religious
books, of which, (says Richardson,) we still retained
two or three of the most portable, and they proved of
incalculable benefit to us.

" We road portions of them to each other as we lay
in bed, in addition to the morning and evening service,
and found that tbev inspired us on each perusal with
so strong a sense ot the omnipresence of a beneficent
God, that our situation, even in these wilds, appeared
no longer destitute ; and we conversed not only with
calmness, but with cheerfulness, detailing with unre-
strained confidence the past events of our lives^nd
dwelling with hope on our future prospects." How
beautiful a picture have we here represented, of true
piety and resignation to the divine will inducing pa-
tience and submission under an unexampled load of
misery and privation.

Michel, the Iroquois, joined them on the 9th of Oc-
tober, having, there is strong reason to believe, mur-
dered two ot the Canadians who were with him, Jean
Baptiste Belanger and Perrault, as they were never
seen afterward, and he gave so many rambling and
contradictory statements of his proceedings, that no
credit could be attached to his story.

The travelers proceeded on their tedious journey by
slow stages. Mr. Hood was much affected with dim
ness of sight, giddiness, and other symptoms of ex
treme debility, which caused them to move slowly and
to make frequent halts. Michel absented himself all
day of the 10th, and only arrived at their encampment
near the pines late on the 11th.

He reported that he had been in chase of some deer
which passed near his sleeping place in the morning,
and although he did not come up with them, yet he
found a wolf which had been killed by the stroke of
a deer's horn, and had brought a part of it.

#■

>?« . w

.■^:

FBANKI.IN 8 FIRST LAND EXPEDITION.

Eichardson adds — "We implicitly believed this
r<tor7 then, but afterward became aware — from cir-
cumstances, the details of which may be spared — that
it must have been a portion of the body of Bel anger,
or Perrault. A question of moment here presents it-
self — namely, whether he actually murdered these
men, or either of them, or whether he found the bodies
in the snow. Captain Frankliif, who is the best able to
judge of this matter, from knowing their situation when
he parted from them, suggested the former idea, and
that both these men had been sacrificed ; that Michel,
having already destroyed Belanger, completed his
crime by Perrault's death, in order to screen himself
from detection."

Although this opinion is founded only on circum-
stances, and is unsupported by direct evideice, it has
been judged proper to mention it, especially as the
subsequent conduct of the man showed that he was
capable of committing such a deed. It is not easy to
assign any other adequate motive for his concealing
from Richardson that terrault had turned back ; while
his request, over-night, that they would leave him the
hatchet, and his cumbering himself with it when he
went out in the morning, unlike a hunter, who makes
• use only of his knife when he kills a deer, seem to
indicate that he took it for the purpose of cutting up
eomething that he knew to be frozen.

Michel left them early next day, refusing Dr. Rich-
ardson's offer to accompany him, and remamed out all
day. He would not sleep in the tent with the other
two at night. On the 13th, there being a heavy gale,
they passed the day by their fire, without food. Next
day, at noon, Michel set out, as he said, to hunt, but
returned unexpectedly in a short time. This conduct
surprised his companions, and. his contradictory and
evasive answers to their questions excited their sus-
picions still further. He subsequently refused either
to hunt or cut wood, spoke in a very surly manner,
tT\d threatened to leavo them. When reasoned with
by Mr, Hood, his anger was excited, and he replied it

PBOOBBB9 OF ARCTIO DISCOVERT.

was BO uso hunting — there were no animals, and they
had better kill and eat him.

"At this period," observes Dr. Richardson, "wo
avoided, as much as possible, conversing upon the
hopelessness of our situation, and generally endeav-
ored to lead the conversation toward our future pros-
pects in life. The fact is, that with the decay of our
strength, our minds decayed, and we were no longer
able to bear the contemplation of the horrors that sur-
rounded us. Yet we were calm and resigned to our
fate ; not a murmur escaped us, and we were punctual
and fervent in our addresses to the Supreme Being."

On the morning of the 20th, they again urged Michel
to go a-hunting, that he might, if possible, leave them
some provision, as he intended quitting them next
day, but he showed great unwillingness to go out, and
lingered about the lire under the pretense of cleaning
his gun. After the morning service had been read,
Dr. Richardson went out to gather some tripe de roche^
leaving Mr. Hood sittiag before the tent at the fire-
side, arguing with Michel; Hepburn was employed
cutting fire-wood. While they were thus engaged,
the treacherous Iroquois took the opportunity to place
his gun close to Mr. Hood, and shoot him through the
head. He represented to his companions that the de-
ceased had killed himself. On examination of the
body, it was found that the shot had entered the back
part of the head and passed out at the forehead, and
that the muzzle of the gun had been applied so close
as to set fire to the nightcap behind. Michel pro-
tested his innocence of the crime, and Hepburn and
Dr. Richardson dared not openly evince their suspi-
cion of his guilt.

Next day, Dr. Richardson determined on goin^
straight to the Fort. They singed the hair off a pan
of the buffalo robe that belonged to their ill-fated com
panion, and boiled and ate it. In the course of theii
march, Michel alarmed them much by his gesturet
and conduct, was constantly muttering to himself, ex-
pressed an unwillingness to go to the Fort, and tried

FBANKLINB FIRST LAND EXPEDITION.

to persuade them to go southward to the woods, where
lie said he could maintain himself all the winter by
killing deer. " In consequence of this behavior, and
the expression of his countenance, I requested him
(says Richardson) to leave us, and to go to the south-
ward by himself. This proposal increased his ill-na-
ture ; he threw out some obscure hints of freeing
lilmself from all restraint on the morrow ; and I over-
heard him muttering threats against Hepburn, whom
he openly accused of having told stories against him.
He also, for the first time, assumed such a tone of
superiority in addressing me, as evinced that he con-
sidered us to be completely in his power ; and he gave
vent to several expressions of hatred toward the white
people, some of whom, he said, had killed and eaten
his uncle and two of his relations. In short, takmg
every circumstance of his conduct into consideration,
I came to the conclusion that he would attempt to
destroy us on the first opportunity that offered, and
that he had hitherto abstained from doing so from his
ignorance of his way to the Fort, but that he would
never suffer us to go thither in company with him.
Hepburn and I were not in a condition to resist even
an open attack, nor could we by ary device escape
from him — our united strength was tar inferior to his ,
and, beside his gun, he was arir>ed Vrktii two pietols,
an Indian bayonet, and a kniffi.

"In the afternoon, coming to 9 tock on v li^ch there
was some tt'ipe de roche, he ha'ted, and sari he would
gather it while we went on, aDd 'lieit he would soon
overtake us.

^ " Hepburn and I were now left together for tlie first
time since Mr. Hood's death, and h 3 acquainted me with
several material circumstances, wiilch he had observed
of Michel's behavior, and which confirmed me in the
opinion that there was no safety for us f;-. opt in his
death, and ho otiered to be the instrument of it. I de-
tennined, however, as I was tlioroughly convinced of
the necessity of such a dreadful act, to take the whole

responsibility upon myself; and immediately upon Mi-
4*

1 ;yfl

■' nm

PE0GEE8S OF AEOTIO DISCOVERT.

chel's coming up, I put an end to hia life by sbootin*^
him througii the head with a pistol. Had my own life
alone been threatened," observes Richardson, in conclu-
sion, " 1 would not have purchased it by such a measure,
but I considered myself as intrusted also with the pro-
tection of Hepburn's, a man who, by his humane atten
tions and devotedness, had so endeared himself to me,
that I feit more anxiety for his safety than for my own.

" Michel had gathered no tripe dc roohe^ and it was evi-
dent to us that he had halted for the purpose of putting
his gun in order with the intention of attacking us —
per.haps while we were in the act of encamping."

Persevering onward in their journey as well as the
^now storms and their feeble limbs would permit, they
naw severa^ herds of deer ; but Hepburn, who used to
f*e a good marksman, was now unable to hold the gun
?!traight. Following the track of a wolverine which had
bf^n dragging something, he however found the spine
of a deer which it had dropped. It was clean picked,
and at least one season old, but they extracted the spinal
marrow from it.

A species of Gornicularia, a kind of lichen, was also
met with, that was found good to eat when moistened
and toasted over the fire. They had still some pieces
of singed buffalo hide remaining, and Hepburn, on
one occasion, killed a partridge, after firing several
times at a flock. About dusk of the 29th they reached
the Fort.

" Upon entering the desolate dwelling, we had the
satisfaction of enibraoing Capt. Franklin, but no words
can convey an idea of the filth and wretchedness that
met our eyes on looking around. Our own misery had
stolen upon us by degrees, and we were accustomed to
the contemplation of each other's emaciated figures;
but the ghastly countenances, dilated eye-balls, and
eepulchral voices of Captain Franklin and those with
him were more than we could at first bear."

Thus ends the narrative of Richardson's journey.

To resume the detail of proceedings at the Fort. On
the 1st of IS'ovember two of the Canadians, Peltier and
Samandre, died from sheer exnaustion.

FaANKUN 8 riEST LAJSfD EXPEDITION.

On the Ttii of No'^anber they were relieved from
their prirations and sufferings by the arrival of three
bulians, bringing a supply of dried meat, some fat, and
a few toiigues, which had been sent off by Back with
all baste from Akaitcho's encampment on the 5th.
These Indians nursed and attenaed them with the
^rratest care, cleansed the house, collected fire-wood,
and studied every means for their general comfort. Their
Huiferiugs were now at an end. On the 26th o^ Nuvom-
]>or thev arrived at the encampment of the Indian chief,
Akaitcho. On the 6th of December Belanger and an-
other Canadian arrived, bringing further supplies, and
letters from England, from Ms. Back, and their former
companion, Mr. Wentzel.

The dispatches from England announced the success-
ful termination of Captain Parry's voyage, and the pro-
motion of Captain Franklin, Mr. Back, and of poor Mr.
Hood.

On the 18th they reached the Hudson's Bay Compa-
ny's establishment at Moose Deer Island, where they
joined their friend Mr. Back. They remained at Fort
Chipewyan until June of the following year.

It is now necessary to relate the story of Mr. Back's
journey, which, like the reet, is a sad tale of suffering
and privation..

Having been directed, on the 4th of October, 1821,
to proceed with St Germain, JRelanger, and Beaupar-
lartr :,o Fort Enterprise, in 'be hopes of obtaining relief
for the party, he set out. (Jp to the 7th they met with
a little tripe de roche^ but this failing them they were
compelled to satisfy, or rather allay, the cravings of
linnger, by eating a gun-cover and a pair of old shoes.
The grievous disappointment experienced on arriving
at the house, and findincr it a deserted ruin, cannot bo

told. ;

"Without the assistance of the Indians, bereft of
every resource, we felt ourselves," says Mr. Back, " re-
duced to the most miserable s^ate, which was rendered
still worse from the rc-;')llectiou that our friends in the
rear were as miserable as ourselves. For the moment,

rROORESS OF ARCTIC DISOOVKRY.

however, hunger prevailed, and each beean to gnaw
the scraps of putrid and frozen meat and skin that were
lying about, without waiting to prepare them." A fire
was, however, afterward made, and the neck and bones
of a deer found in the house were boiled and devoured.

After resting a day at the house, Mr. Back pushed on
with his companions in search of the Indians, leaving a
note for Captain Franklin, informing him if he failed in
meeting with the Indians, he intended to push on for
tlie first trading establishment — distant about 130
miles — and send us succor from thence. On the 11th
he set .out on the journey, a few old skins having been
first collected to serve as tbod.

On the 13th and 14th of October thej* had nothing
whatever to eat. Belanger was sent off wit^i a note to
Franklin. On the 15th they were fortunate enough to
fall in with a partridge, the bones of which were eaten,
and the remainder eserved for bait to fish with.
Enough tripe de roche was, however, gathered to make
a meal. Eeauparlant now lingered oehind, worn out
by extreme weakness. On the 17th a number of crows,
perched on some high pines, led them to believe that
some carrion vv'as near ; and on searching, several heads
of deer, half buried in the snow and ice, without eyes
or tongues, were found. An expression of " Oh, merci-
ful God, we are saved," broke from them both and with
feelings more easily imagined than described, they
shook hands, not knowing what to say for joy.

St. Germain was sent back, to bring up Beauparlant,
tor whose safety Back became very anxious, but he
found the poor fellow frozen to death.

The night ( f tlie 17th wp.s cold and clear, but they
could get no e'eep. "Fi via the pains of having eaten,
we suffered lol^serves Back) the most excruciating tor-
ments, though I in particular did not eat a quarter of
what would have satisfied me ; it might have been from
having eaten a quantity of raw or frozen sinews of the
legs of deer, which neither of us could avoid doing, so
great was our hunger."

On tlie following day Belanger returned famishing

;en,

PARRY 8 FIliST VOYAGE.

udth hunger, and told of the pitiable state of Franklin
and his reduced party. BacK, both this day and the
next, tried to urge on his companions toward the object
of their journey, but he could not conquer their stub-
born determinations. They said they were unable to
proceed from weakness ; knew not the way ; that Back
wanted to expose them again to death, and in fact loi-
tered greedily about the remnants of the deer till the
end of the month. " It was not without the greatest
difficulty that I could restrain the men from eating ev-
ery scrap they found ; though they were well aware of
the necessity there was of being economical in our pres-
ent situation, and to save whatever they could for our
journey, yet they could not resist the temptation ; and
whenever my back was turned they seldom failed to
snatch at the nearest piece to them, whether cooked or
raw. Having collected with great care, and by self-
denial, two email packets of dried meat or sinews suffi-
cient (for men who knew what it was to fast) to last for
eight days, at the rate of one indifferent meal per day,
they set out on the 30th. On the 3d of November they
came on the track of Indians, and soon reached the
tents of Akaitcho and his followers, when food was
obtained, and assistance sent oft' to Franklin.

In July they reached York Factory, from whence
they had started three years before, and thus tenninated
a journey of 5550 miles, during which human courage
and patience were exposed to trials such as few can
bear with fortitude, unless, as is seen in Franklin's in-
teresting narrative, arising out of reliance on the ever-
sustaining care of an Almighty Providence.

Parry's First Voyage, 1819-1820.

The Admiralty having determined to continue the
progress of discovery in the Arctic seas, Lieut. W. E.
Parry, who had been. second in command under Capt.
Ross, in tlie voyiige of the previous year, was selected
to take cliarge of a new expedition, consisting of the
Hecla and Griper. The cliief object of tliis voyage was
to pursue the survey of Lancaster Sound, and decide

;

rU00RI'»8 OF ARCnC DISCOVERY.

on the probability of a northwest passage in that di»«.-c-
tion ; failing in whicli, Smith's and Jones' Sc nn<U
were to be explored, with the same purpose in vew.

The respective officers appointed to the ^liius.
were —

Heda^ 375 tons :

Lieut, and Commander — r "W". E. Parry.

Lieutenant — Fred. W. Beechey.

Captain — E. Sabine, R. A., Astronomer.

Purser — W. H. Hooper.

Surgeon — John Edwards.

Assistant Surgeon — Alexander Fisher.

Midshipmen — James Clarke Ross, J. Nias, "W. J

Dealy, Charles Palmer, John Bushnan.
Greenland Pilots — J. Allison, master; G. Craw

furd, mate.
44 Petty Officers, Seamen, &c.

Total complement, 58.

Griper^ 180 tons : , .

Lieutenant and Commander — Matthew Liddon.
Lieutenant — H. P. Hoppner.
Assistant Surgeon — C. J . Beverley.
Midshipmen — A. Reid, A. M. Skene, "W. N

Griffiths.
Greenland Pilots — George Fyfe, master ; A. Eid

mate.
28 Petty Officers, Seamen, <fec.

Total complement, 36.

The ships were raised upon, strengthened, and well
found in stores and provisions for two years. On the
lltli of May, 1819, they got away from the Thames,
and after a lair passage fell in with a considerable quan-
tity of ice in the middle of Davie' Straits about the
20th of June ; it consisted chiefly of fragments of ice-
bergs, on the outskirts of the glaciers that form along
the shore. After a tedious passage through the floes
of ice, eftected chiefly by heaving and warping, they
nnivcd at Possessiou Bay on the morning of the Slst

pakuy's FIKST VOVAOE.

ell

■OS,

11-

le-

of Jwly, being just a month earlier than they were
here on the previous year. As many as fifty whales
were seen here in the course of a few hours. On land-
ing, they were not a little astonished to find their own
footprints of the previous year, still distinctly visible in
tlie snow. During an excursion of three or four miles
into the interior, a fox, a raven, several ring-plovers
and snow-buntings, were seen, as also a bee, from which
it may be inferred that honey can be procured even in
these wild regions. Vegetation flourishes remarkably
well here, considering the high latitude, for wherever
there was moisture, tufts and various ground plants
grew in considerable abundance.

Proceeding on from hence into the Sound, they veTi-
fied the opinion which had previously been entertained
by many of the officers, that the Croker Mountains
had no existence, for on the 4th of August,, the ships
were in long. 86° 56' W., three degrees to the westward
of where land had been laid down by Ross in the pre-
vious year. The strait was named afler Sir John Bar-
row, and was fgjiod to be pretty clear ; but on reach-
ing Leopold Island, the ice extended in a compact body
to the north, through which it was impossible to pene-
trate. Rather than remain inactive, waiting for the
dissolution of the ice, Parry determined to try what
could be done by shaping his course to the southward,
through the magnificent inlet now named Regent In-
let. About the 6th of August, in consequence of the
local attraction, the ordinary compasses became use-
less from their great variation, and the binnacles were
removed from the deck to the carpenter's store-room as
useless lumber, the azimuth compasses alone remain-
ing ; and these became s© sluggish in their motions,
that they required to be very nicely leveled, and fre-
quently tapped before the card traversed. The local at-
traction was very great, and a mass of iron-stone found
on shore attracted the magnet powerfully. The ships
proceeded 120 miles from the entrance.

On the Sth of August, in lat. 72° 13' K., and long.
90" 29' VV., (his extreme point of view Parry named

Inl

rnooKESS or akctio ivih(;<)Vkuv.

Capo Kater,) the Hecla came to a compact barrier of
ice extending across the inlet, which rendered one of
two alternatives necessary, either to remain here until
an opening took place, or to return agpin to the north-
wara. The latter course was deternnned on. Makinj^,
therefore, for the northern shore of Barrow's Strait, on
the 20th a narrow channel was discovered between tlie
ice and the land. On the 22d, proceeding due west,
after passing several bays and headlands, tfiey noticed
two large openings or passages, the lirst of which, more
than ei^ht leagues in wiclth, he named Wellington
Channel. To various capes, inlets, and groups of isl-
ands passed, Parry assigned the names of Jlothani,
Barlow, Cornwallis, Bowen, By am Martin, Grifhtli,
Lowther, Bathurst, &c. On the 28th a boat was sent
on shore at By am Martin Island with Capt. Sabine,
Mr. J. C. Ross, and the surgeons, to make observations,
and collect specimens of natural history. The vegeta-
tion was ratlier luxuriant for these regions; moss in
particular grew in abundance in the moist valleys and
along the banks of the streams that flowed from the
hills. The ruins of six Esquimaux huts were observed.
Tracks of reindeer, bears, and musk oxen were noticed,
nnd the skeletons, skulls, and horns of some of these
animals were found.

On the let of September, they discovered the large
and fine island, to which Parry has given the name of
Melville Island after the First Lord of the Admiralty
of that day. On the following day, two boats with a
party of 'officers were dispatched to examine its 'shores.
Some reindeer and musK oxen were seen on landing,
but being startled by the sight of a dog, it was found
impossible to get near them. There seemed here to bo
a great quantity of the pnimal tribe, for the tracks of
bears, oxen, ana deer were numerous, and the horns,
skin, and skulls were also found. The burrows of foxes
and field-mice were observed; several ptarmigan were
shot, and flocks of snow-bunting, geese, and ducks, were
noticed, probably commencing their migration to a
milder climate. Along the beach there was an iin-

•I

n
M

-m

PAItRY'ti URST VOYAOK.

)arricr of
!tl one ot*
lere until
;h« north-
Milk in ;Xi
Strait, on

tween tli«
(hie west,
y noticed
lich, moro
Wellington
ips of ifel-

JJotlmni,
, Griffith,

was sent
t. Sabine,
ervations,
10 vegeta-
; mo8s in
illeys and

from the
observed,
e noticed,
of these

the large
name of
dmiralty
;8 with a
8 'shores,
landing,
as found
lere to be
racks of
He horns,
of foxes
an were
eks, were
ion to a
an ira-

mense number of small shrimps, and various kinds of
kihells.

On the 4th of September, Parrv had the satisfaction
of crossing the mendian of 110° W., in the latitude of
74° 44' 20'', by which the expedition became entitled
to the reward of £5000, granted by an order in Coun-
cil upon the Act 68 Geo. III., cap. 20, entitled, "An
Act for more effectually discovering the longitude at
6t'u, and encouraging attempts to find a northern nas-
Biige between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, and to
ai»i»ioach the North Pole." This ^'f^t was not announced
to the crews until the foUowiii' .y ; to celebrate the
event they gave to a bold cape oi tlie island then lying
in sight the name of Bounty Capo ; and so anxious
were they now to press forward, that they began to
calculate the time when they should reach the longi-
tude of 130° W., the second place specified by the order
in Council for reward. On the afternoon of the 5th,
the compactness of the ice stopped them, and therefore,
for the first time since leaving England, the anchor was
let go, and that in 110° W. longitude.

A boat was sent on shore on the 6th to procure turf
or peat for fuel, and, strangely enough, some small
pieces of tolerably good coal were found in various
places scattered over the surface. A party of ofticers
that went on shore on the 8th killed several grouse on
the island, and a white hare ; a fox, some field-mice,
several snow-bunting, a snowy owl, and four musk oxen
were seen. Ducks, m small nocks, were seen along the
shore, as well as several glaucous gulls and tern, and a
solitary seal was observed.

As the ships were coasting along on the 7th, two
herds of musk oxen were seen grazing, at the distance
of about three-quarters of a mile from the beach : one
nerd consisted of nine, and the other of five of these
cattle. They had also a distant view of two reindeer.

The average weight of the hares here is about eight
pounds. Mr. Fisher, the surgeon, from whose interest-
ing journal I quote, states that it is very evident that
this island must be frequented, if not constantly inhal>-

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0 ^^ tii

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1.1 ?.'*'

— H£

Photographic
.Sciences
Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 145S0

(7l6)t72-4S03

PKOOKKS8 OF AJiCTIO DltiC'OVIiUV.

ited, by musk oxen in great numbers, for their bones and
horns are found scattered about in all directions, and
the greatest part of the carcass of one was discovered
on one occasion. The skulls of two carnivorous ani-
mals, a wolf and a lynx, were also picked up here. A
party sent to gather coals brought on board about hall
a bushel — all they could obtain.

On the morning of the 10th, Mr. George Fyfe, the
master pilot, with a party of six men belonging to tlio
Griper, landed with a view of making an exploringtrip
of some fifteen or twenty miles into the interior. They
only took provisions for a day with them. Great un-
easiness was felt that they did not return ; and when
two days elapsed, fears began to be entertained fur
their safety, and it was thought they must have lost
their way.

Messrs. Keid, (midshipman) Beverly, (assistant sur-
geon) and Wakeman (clerk) volunteered to go in searcli
of their missing messmates, but themselves lost their
way ; guided by the rockets, fires, and lights exhibited,
they returned by ten at night, almost exhausted with
cold and fatigue, but without intelligence of their friends.
Four relief parties were therefore organized, and sent
out on the morning of the 13th to prosecute the search,
and one of them tell in with and brought back four of
the wanderers, and another the remaining three before
nightfall.

The feet of most of them were much frost-bitten, and
they were all wearied and worn out with their wander-
ings. It appears they had all lost their way the eve-
ning of the day they went out. With regard to food,
they were by no means badly off, for they managed to
kill as many grouse as they could eat.

They found fertile valleys and level plains in the in-
terior, abounding with grass and moss ; also a lake of
fresh water, about two miles longby one broad, in which
were several species of trout. They saw several herds
of reindeer on the plains, and two elk ; also many
hares, but no musk oxen. Some of those, however, who
had been in search of the stray party, noticed herds of
these cattle.

PAltBY^S F1K8T VOYAGE.

The winter now began to set in, and tho packed ice
was so thick, that fearB were entertained of being locked
up in an exposed position on the coast ; it was, there-
fore, thought most prudent to put back, and endeavor
to reach the harbor which had been passed some days
l)efore. The vessels now got seriously buifeted among
tho floes and hummocks ot ice. The Griper was forced
airround on the beach, and for some time was in a very
critical position. Lieutenant Liddon having been con-
lined to his cabin by a rheumatic complaint, was prest?cd
at this juncture by Commander Parry to allow himself
to ]>e removed to the Ilecla, but he nobly refused, stating
that he should be the last to leave the ship, and contin-
luMJ giving orders. Tho beach being sand, the Griper
was got off without injury.

On the 23d of September they anchored off the
moutli of the harbor, and the thermometer now fell to
l\ The crew were set to v/ork to cut a channel through
the ice to the shore, and in the course of three days, a
cimjil, two and a half miles in length, was completed,
through which the vessel was tracked. The ice was
eight or nine inches thick. An extra allowance of pre-
served meat was served out to^e men, in considera-
tion of their hard labor. TheJPssels were unrigged,
and every thing made snug ana secure for passing the
H'inter. Captam Parry gave the name of the Kortli
Georgian Islands to this group, after his Majesty, King
(ireorge III., but this has since been changed to the
Parry Islands. *

Two reindeer were killed on the 1st of October, and
t*everal white bears were seen. On the 6th a deer was
Ivillod, which weighed 170 pounds. Seven were seen
on the 10th, one of which was killed, and another se-
verely wounded. Following after this animal, night
overtook several of the sportsmen, and the usual sig-
nals of rockets, lights, &c. were exhibited, to guide
them back. One, John Pearson, a marine, had his
hands so frost-bitten that he was obliged, on the 2d of
November, to ha^ e the four fingers of nis left hand am-
putated. A wolf and four reindeer were seen on tho

*K.

I'KOUIUlSB or AUCnC DISOUVliJiY.

14th. A herd of fifteen deer were seen on the 15th;
but those who saw them could not bring down any, as
their fowlingrpieces missed fire, from the moisture
freezing on the locks. On the 17th and 18th herds of
eleven and twenty respectively, were seen, and a small
one was shot. A fox was caught on the 29th, which is
described as equally cunning with his brethren of the
temperate regions.

To make the long winter pass as cheerfully as possi-
ble, plays were acted, a school established, and a news-
paper set on foot, certainly the first periodical publica-
tion that had ever issued trom the Arctic regions. The
title of this journal, the editorial duties of which were
undertaken by Captain Sabine, was "The Winter
Chronicle, or New Georgia Gazette." Tlie first num-
ber appeared on the 1st of Kovember.

On the evening of the 5th of JN^ovember the farce of
" Miss in her Teens " was brought out, to the groat
amusement of the ships' companies, and, considerinii;
the local difticulties and disadvantages under which thu
j)erfonncrs lal)ored, tkeir first esstjy, according to the
officers' report, did them infinite credit. Two hours
were spent very happUv in their theater on the quarter-
deck, notwithstandlroHke thermometer outside the ship
stood at zero, and wifflln as low as the freezing point,
except close to the stoves, where it was a little higher.
Another play was performed on the 24th, and so on
every fortnight. The men were employed during the
(fay in banking up the ships with snow.

On the 23d of December, the oflficers performed " The
Mayor of Garrett," which was followed by an after-
piece, written by Captain Parry, entitled the " North-
W est Passage, or the Voyage Finished." The sun hav-
ing long since departed, the twilight at noon was so
clear that books in the smallest print could be distinctly
read.

On the 6th of January, the ferce of " Bon Ton " was
performed, with the thermometer at 27° below zero. —
The cold became more and more intense. On the 12th
it was 51° below zero, in the open air ; brandy froze to

I'AUKV S FlUf*T \ OVAGE.

tlie consistency of honey; wlien tasted iu this state it
letlt a smarting on the tongue. The greatest cold expe-
rienced was on the 14th of January, when the ther-
mometer tell to 62° below zero. On the 3d of Febru-
ary, the sun was first visi})le above the horizon, after
eighty-four days' absence. It was seen from the main-
top of the ships, a height of about fifty-one feet above
the sea.

On the forenoon of the 24th a fire broke out at the
Rtorehouse, which was used as an observatory. All
liands proceeded to the spot to endeavor to subdue the
llanies, but having only snow to throw on it, and the
mats with which tlie interior was lined being very drj,
it was found impossible to extinwuisli it. The snow,
however, covered the astronomicalinstrnments and se-
cured them from the fire, and when the roof had been
pulled down the fire had burned itself out. Consider-
able as the fire was, its influence or heat extended but
a very short distance, for several of the officers and
luen were frost-bitten, and confined from their eftbrts
for several weeks. John Smith, of the Artillery, who
was Oaptain Sabine's servant, and who, together with
Sergeant Martin, happened to be in the house at the
thne the fire broke out, suftered much more severely.
In their anxiety to save the dipping needle, which was
standing close to the stove, and of which they knew
the value, they immediatelv ran out %vith it; ana Smith
not having time to put on his gloves, had his fingers in
half an hour so benumbed, and the animation so com-
pletely suspended, that on his being taken on board
by Mr. Edwards, and having his hands plunged into
a basin of cold water, the simace of the water was im-
mediately frozen by the intense cold thus suddenly
communicated to it; and notwithstanding the most hu-
mane and unremitting attention paid him by the med-
ical gentlemen, it was found necessary, some time after,
to resort to the amputation of a part of four fingers
on one hand, and three on the other.

Parry adds, " the appearance which our faces pre-
Bouted at the fire was a curious one; almost every noso

PKOQKESB OF AKCTIO DISCOVERY.

and cheek having become quito white with frost bites,
in five nainutes alter being exposed to the weather, so
that it was deemed necessarv for the medical gentle-
men, together with some others appointed to assist
them, to go constantly round while the men were work
ing at the fire, and to rub with snow the parts affected,
in order to restore animation."

The weather got considerably milder in March; on
the 6th the • thermometer got up to zero for the first
time since tlie 17th of December. The observatory
house op shore was now rebuilt.

The vapor, which had been in a solid state on the
ship's sides, now thawed below, and the crew, scraping
off the coating of ice, removed on the 8th of March,
above a hundred bucketsfull each, containing from five
to six gallons, which had accumulated in less than a
month, occasioned principally from the men's breath,
and the steam of victuals at meals.

The scurvy now broke out among the crew, and
prompt measures were taken to remedy it. Captain
tarry took great pains to raise mustard and cress in
his cabin for the men's use.

On the 30th of April, the thermometer stood at the
freezing point, "w hich it had not done since the 12th of
September last. On the 1st of May, the sun was seen
at midnight for the first time that season.

A survey was now taken of the provisions, fuel, and
stores; much of the lemon juice was found destroyed
from the bursting in the bottles by the frost. Having
been only victualed for two years, and half that period
having expired, Captain Parry, as a matter of prudence
reduced all hands to two-thirds allowance of all sorts of
provisions, except meat and sugar.

The crew were now set to work in cutting awav the
ice round the ships : the average thickness was round
to be seven feet. Many of the men who had been out
on excursions began to suffer much from snow blind-
ness. The sensation when first experienced, is de-
scribed as like that felt when dust or sand gets into
the eyes. They were, however, cured in the course of

' »

TAURYS FinST VOYAHi:.

two or three days by kecpiiif]^ the eyes covered, and
l)athin^ them occasion ally with sugar of lead, or some
other cooliiifj lotion.

To prevent the recurrence of the complaint, the men
were ordered to wear a piece of crape or some substi-
tute for it over the eyes.

The channel round the ships was completed by the
17th *A' JNlay, and they rose nearly two feet, having
])L'en kept down by the pressure of tiie ice round them,
altliuugh lii»;htened durin<jj the wijiter by the consump-
tion of food and fuel. On the 2ith, they were a^ton-
islied by two showers of rain, a most extraordinaiy
]tliC'nomenon in these reo-ions. byuiptoms of scurvy
;iii:ain ai)])eared ainon^ the crew ; one of the seamen
wiio had been recently cured, havin<; imprudently been
in the habit of eating the fat skimndnijs, or "slush,"' in
Mliich salt meat had been boiled, and which was served
otit for their lamps. As the hills in many ])laces now be-
came exposed and vegetation conunenced, two or three
l>ieces of ground M'cre dug up and sown with seeds of
I'adishes, onions, and other vegetables. Captain Parry
determined before leaving to make an excursion across
the island for the purpose of examining its size, bound-
aries, productions, etc. Accordingly on the 1st of J une,
an expedition was organized, consisting of the com-
mander, Captain Sabine, Mr. Fisher, the assistant-sur-
ireon, Mr. John Nias, midshi]>man of the llecla, and
^[r. Reid, midshipman of the Griper, with two ser
gcants, and five seamen and marines. Three weeks
])i'ovision8 were taken, which, together with two tentS:
wood for fuel, and other articles, weighing in all about
Srxl lbs., was drawn on a cart prepared for the purpose
l)v the men.

Each of the officerR carried a kna]^sack with his own
private baggage, weighing from 18 to 24: lbs., also hia
gun and ammunition. Tlie party started in high glee,
under three hearty cheers from their comrades, sixteen
of whom accompanied them for five miles, carrying
their knapsacks and drawing the cart for them.

They traveled by nigbf, takinj? u\-t by day, as it w'>i

rnoouKss ui* Auirnc iHaCovKuv.

1-'

found to bo wanner for slcop, and tlioy liad ou]y a cov
oring of a single blanket each, beside the clutlies ti»ey
had on.

On the 2d, tlicy came to a small lake, about b.iU' a
mile long, and met with eider-ducks and ptaiini;;an ;
Boven of the latter were shot. Frum tlie top of a range
of hills at which they now arrived,- they could see the
masts of the ships in Winter Harbor with the nuked
eye, at about ten or eleven miles distant. A vast j^hiin
was also seen extending to the northward and west-
ward.

The party breakfasted on biscuit and a pint of gruel
each, made of salep powder, wliich was tuund to be a
very palatable diet. Ueindeer with their fawna wero
met with.

They derived great assistance in dragging their cart
by rigging upon it one of the tent-blankets as a sail, a
truly nautical contrivance, and the wind favoring tiieni,
they made great progress in this M'ay. Captain Saldino
being taken ill with a bowel complaint, had to be con-
veyed on this novel sail carriage. They, however, had
some u^Iy ravines to pass, the crossings of which wero
very tedious and troublesomo. On the 7th the party
came to a large bay, which was named atler their ships,
Hccla and Griper J>ay. The blue ice was cut through
by hard work with boarding pikes, the only instruments
they had, and after digging fourteen and a half feet,
the water rushed up ; it was not very salt, but sufficient
to satisfy them that it was the ocean. An island seen
in the distance was named after Captain Sabine ; some
of the various points and capes were also named after
others of the party. Altliough this shore was found
blocked up with such heavy ice, there appear to be times
when there is open water here, for a piece of fir wood
seven and a half feet long, and about the thickness of
a man's arm, was found about eighty yards inland front
the hummocks of the beach, and about thirty feet above
the level of the sea. Before leaving the shore, a monu-
ment of stones, twelve feet high, was erected, in which
were depo^iited, in a tia cylinder, an account of their

rAltUYtJ FI118T VOYAGE.

?iiircee(Imf^s, a few coins, and several navul buttons,
'lie expedition now turned back, shapinfij its courrio in
a more westerly direction, toward some high blue hills,
which had long been in sight. On many days several
ptarmigans were shot. The horns and tracks of deer
were very numerous.

On the 11th they came in sight of a deep gulf, to
which Lieutenant Liddon's name was given ; the two
capes at its entrance being called after Beechey and
Iloppner. In the center was an island about three-f^uar-
tors of a mile in length, and rising abruptly to tlio
height of 700 feet. The shores of the gulf were very
rugged and precipitant, and in descending a steep hill,
the axle-tree of their cart broke, and tliey had to leave
it behind, taking the body with them, however, for fuel.
The wheels, which were left on the spot, may astonish
some future adventurer who discovers them. The stores,
ifec, were divided among the officers and men.

Making their way on the ice in the gulf, tlie island in
the center was explored, and named after Mr. Hooper,
the purser of the Pocla. It was found to be of sand-
stone, and very barren, rising perpendicularly from the
west side. Four fat geese were killed here, and a great
many animals were seen around the gulf ; some atten-
tion being paid to examining it r shores, &c., a fine open
valley was discovered, and tiici tracks of oxen and
deer were very numerous ; the pasturage appeared to
be excellent.

On the 13th, a few ptarmigan and golden plover were
killed. No less than thirteen deer in one herd were
seen, and a musk ox for the first time in this season.

The remains of six Esquimaux huts were discovered
about 300 yards from the beach. Vegetation now be-
gan to flourish, the sorrel was found far advanced, and
a species of saxifrage was met with in blossom. They
reached the ships on the evening of the 15th, after a
journey of about 180 miles.

The ships' crews, during their absence, had been occu-
pied in getting ballast in and re-stowing the hold.

Shootmg parties were now sent out in various dircc-
5

l'IiO(iUI«8 OF AKCnC I>IHCX)VKKY.

tionR to procure game. Dr. Fislier^jjivos an intni'sflu'^
ftccount of his ten (lays' excurt^ion with a c(»uj)lc of nmn.
Tlic (leur were not sonunierourt as thoy expuctod to tiiul
tliom. About thirty were seen, of which his ])ai'ty
killed hut two, which were very lean, wei^liin*^ only,
when skinned and cleanetl, 50 to 60 lbs. A couple of
wolves were seen, and some foxes, with a ^reat many
hares, four of which were killed, weighinc; from 7 to 8
lbs. The aquatic birds seen were — brent geese, king
ducks, long-tailed ducks, and arctic and glaucous gulls.
The land birds wore ptarmigans, plovers, sanderlings
and snow buntings. The geeso were pretty numerous
for the first few nays, but got wild and wary on being
disturbed, keeping in the middle of lakes out of gun-
shot. About a dozen were, however, killed, and litU'cn
ptarmigans. These birds are represented to be so stu-
pid, that all seen may be shot. Dr. Fisher was sur-
prised on his return on the 20th of June, atler his ten
days' absence, to find how much vegetation had ad-
vanced ; the land being now completely clear of snow,
was covered with the purple-colored saxifrage in blos-
som, with mosses, and with sorrel, and the grass was
two to three inches long. The men were sent out twice
a week to collect the sorrel, and in « few^ minutes enough
could be procured to make a salad for dinner. After
being mixed with vinegar it was regularly served out
to the men. The English garden seeds that had been
sown got on but slowly, and did not yield any produce
in time to be used.

On the 30th of June Wm. Scott, a boatswain's mate,
who had been afflicted with scurvy, diai-rhcra, tfec,
died, and was buried on the 2d of July — a slab of
sandstone bearing an inscription carved by Dr. Fisher,
being erected over his grave.

From observations made on the tide during two
months, it appears that the greatest rise and fall hero
is four feet four inches. A largo pile of stones was
erected on the 14th of July, upon the most conspicuous
hill, containing the usual notices, coin?, &c., and on a
large stone an inscription was left, notitying the winter-
ing of the ships here.

a be

I'AKIiY S illCST VuVAOK.

y?i

On tlio Ist of Aufynsf, tlio ships, wliich had lieon pro-
vionsly warui'd out, <;ot clear ot tho harltor, and t'ouiul
u channel, l)oth eastward and westward, ck'ar of ice,
about three or four miles in breadth alon;; the land.

On the <)th they landed on the island, and in tho
coiu'sc of the ni^ht killed fourteen hares and a number
of glaneouH gulls, which were found witli their young
on the top of a i»recij)itous, insulated rock.

On the 9th the voyu;jjers liad an opportunity of ob-
Bervin<^ an instance of the violent pressure that takes
place occasionally by the collision of heavy ice. "Two
])ieces," says l)r. Fisher, "• that hapi)entd to come in
contact close to ns, pressed so forcibly aj^ainst ono an-
other that one of them, althou<^li forty-two feet thick,
and at least three times that in length and breadth, was
forced np on its edge on the top of another piece of ice.
But even this is nothing v.'hon compared with the pres-
Gure that must have existed to pro(luce the efiects that
we see along the shore, for not only heaps of earth and
stones several tons weight are forced up, but hummocks
of ice, from fifty to sixty feet thick, are piled up on tho
beach. It is unnecessary to remark that a ship, although
fortified as well as wood and iron could make her, would
have but little chance of withstanding such over-
whelming force."

This day a musk-ox was shot, which weighed moro
than 700 lbs.; the carcass, when skinned and cleaned,
yielding 421 lbs. of meat. The flesh did not taste so
very strong of musk as had been represented.

The ships made but slow progress, being still thickly
l)cset with floes of ice, 40 or 50 feet thick, and had to
make fast for security to hummocks of ice on the beach.

On the 15th and IGth they were off" the southwest
point of tho island, but a survey of the locality from
the precipitous cliff of Cape Dundas, presented tho
same interminable barrier of ice, as far as the eye could
reach. A bold high coast was sighted to the southwest,
to which the name of Bank's Land was given.

Captain Parry states that on the 23a the ships re-
ceived by far the heaviest shocks they had experienced

i '

100

ritooiiEss ui' Auui'io i)iHi(»vi:iiv.

(luring tlio voyaco, nnd pcrforinod six miles of tlu^ most
difHcult navigation ho had over known among ieo.

Two muHk oulls wero shot on tiio 24th by parties who
landed, out of a herd of seven whicli wero seen. They
were lighter than the first one siiot — weighing only
about 300 lbs. From the number of skulls and skele-
tons of these animals met with, and their capabilities
of enduring the rigor of the climate, it seems probable
that they do not migrate southward, but winter on this
island.

Attempts wore still made to work to tho eastward,
but on the 25th, from want of wind, and the closoness
of the ice, the ships were obliged to make fast again,
without bavin*' gamed above a mile after several hours'
labor. A fresh breeze springing up on the 2Cth opened
a passage along shore, and the ships made sail to tho
eastward, and in tho evening were off their old quarters
in Winter Harbor. On tho following evening, affer a
fine run, they wero off the east end of Melville Island.
Lieut. Parry, this day, announced to the ofiicers and
crew that aller due consideration and consultation, it
had been found useless to prosecute their researches
farther westward, and therefore endeavors would bo
made in a more southerly direction, failing in which,
tho expedition would return to England. Kegent Inlet
and the southern shores generally, were found so blocked
up with ice, that tho return to England was on the 30th
ot August publicly announced. This day, Navy Board
and Admiralty Inlets were passed, and on the 1st of
September the vessels got clear of Barrow's Strait, and
reached Baffin's Bay on the 6th. Thev fell in with a
whaler belonging to Hull, from whom they learned tho
news of the deatn of George the Third and the Duke
of Kent, and that eleven vessels having been lost in tho
ice last year, fears were entertained for their safety.
The Friendship, another Hull whaler, informed them
that in company with the Truelove, she had looked into
Smith's Sound that summer. The Alexander, of Aber-
deen, one of the ships employed on the former voyage
of discovery to these seas, had also entered Lancaster

rAKUY B HECUNl) VuYAOK,

lul

Sound. Al'iiT toucliIn|jf at Clyde'rf River, where tliev
int't a ^ood-naturi'd triuc of Kfi<piiniaux, theHliipM maifo
the bi'ht ot thi'ir wav acruHH tlie Atlantic, und atU-r a
eonic'what hoibteroUH jiassage, Coniniodure Tarry landed
ftt IVterhead on the yoth ot* October, and, accompanied
by Cajjt. Sabine and Mr. IJoopcr, posted t^ Loudou.

...

I '

Parky's Second Voyage, 1821— 1823.

The experience whicli Capt. Parry had formed in hia
])revious vt»ya«<e, led him to entertain the. opinion that
a commnnieation ini«^ht bo found between Kegcnt Inlet
and lloe's Welcome, or through llepul^e Bay, and thenco
to the northwestern shores. The lullowing arc his re-
marks : — " On an iiiRpection of tho charts I think it
will also appear probable that a comnmnication will
one day be founct to exist between this inlet (Prince
llecent s) and Hudson's Pay, either through the broad
and unexplored channel called Sir Thomas Iloe's Wel-
come, or through licpulse Pay, which has not yet been
Fatisfartorily examined. It is also probable that a chan-
nel will 1)0 found to exist between the western land and
the northern coast t»f America." Again, in another
place, he says : — " Of the existence of a northwest
jiassage to the Pacific it is now scarcely possible U*
<loubt, and from the succesf which attended our efforts
in 1819, after passing thr.'Ugh Sir James Lancaster's
Sound, we were not unreasonable in anticipating its
complete accomplishment. But the season in which it
is practicable to navigate the Polar Seas does n'^t exceed
seven weeks. From all that we observed it seems desir-
able that ships endeavoring to reach the Pacific Ocean
by this route should keep if possible on the coast of
Amenca, and the lower m latitude that coast may bo
found, the more favorable will it prove for the purpose ;
hence Cuml)erland Strait, Sir Tliomas Roe's Welcome,
and Repulse Bay appear to be the points most worthy
of attention. I cannot, therefore, but consider that any
expedition equipped by Great Bntain with this view

:m'

102

ritoni:DsS of Ai:cric DiscuVEKV.

onfi;lit to employ its best cnurgico in {itteiivptin<^to ijene-
trate t'roiu the eastern coast of America aloni^ ito north-
ern sliorc. In conse(|uence ot* the partial success wliich
has hitherto attended our attempts, the wlialers liavo
already extended their views, and a new field has been
opened for one of the most lucrative branches ot* our
commerce, and v.diat is scarcely of less importance, one
of the most valuidjle nurseries for seamen which Great
}'ritain possesses."'^'

Pleased with his former zeal and enterprise, and in
order to give liim an opportunity of testing the trutli
(>f his observations, a few months after he returned home,
tlie Adnifralty gave Parry the command of another ex-
pedition, with instructions to j)roceed to Hudson's Strait,
and penetrate to the westward, until in Ite[)ulse Bay,
or on some other part of the shores of Hudson's Bay to
the north of AVager River, lie should reach the weste
coast of the continent. Failing in these quarters, 1;
was to keep along the coast, carefully examining every
bend or inlet, which sliould appear likely to afford a
practicable passage to the westward.

The vessels commissioned, with their officers and
crews, were the following. Several of the officers of the
former expedition were promoted, and those who had
been on the last voyage with Parry I have marked with
an asterisk : —

Grec
m

Furlh

Commander — *W. E. Parry.

Chaplain and Astronomer — Eev. Geo. Fisher, (was

in the Dorothea, under Capt. Buchan, in 1818.)
Lieutenants — *J. Nias and *A. Reid.

Surgeon — *J. Edwards.

Purser — *W. H. Hooper.
Assistant-Surgeon — J. Skeoch.
Midshipmen — *J. C. Ross, *J. Bushnan, J. Hender-
son, E. R. M. Crozier.

"Parry's First Voyage, voL ii, p. 240.

PAURY S SKCONl) VOYAGK.

103

li' '41

Greenland Pilots — -J. Allison, master ; G. Crawfurd,

mate.
47 Petty Officers, Seamen, &c.

Total complement, 60.

Hecla,

Commander — G. F. Lyon.
Lieutenants — *H. P. lloppner and ^C. Palmer.
Surgeon — -A . Fisher.
Purser — J. Germain.
Assistant-Surgeon — A. M'Laren.
Midsliipmen — *W. N. Griffitlis, J. Sherer, C. Rich-
ards, E. J. Bird.
Greenland Pilots — "*G. Fife, master; *A. Elder, mate.
46 Petty Officers, seamen, &c.

Total complement, 58.

Lieutenant Lyon, the second in command, had ob-
tained some reputation from his travels in Tripoli,
Mourzouk, and other pares of Northern Africa, and was
raised to the rank of Commander, on liis aj^pointment
to the Ilecla, and received his promotion as Captain,
when the expedition returned.

The ships were accompanied as far as the ice by
the N^atilus transport, freighted with provisions and
stores, which were to be transhipped as soon aa room
was found for them.

The vessels got away from the little Xore early on
the 8th of May, 1821, but meeting with strong gales
olf the Greenland coast, and a boisterous passage, did
not fall in with the ice until the middle of June.

On the 17th of June, in a heavy gale from the south-
ward, the sea stove and carried away one of the quar-
ter boats of tlie Hecla. On the following day, in lat.
60° 53' N., long. 61° 39' W., they made the pack or
main body of ice, having many large bergs in and
near it. On the 19th, Resolution Island, at the en-
trance of Hudson's Strait, was seen distant sixty-four
miles. Capt. Lyon states, that during one of the

\}'' ;.

t'. fk

\ \\

104

riiOGKFiJS OF AliCriC DISCON'EKV.

watches, a large fragment was observed to fall from
ail iceberg near the llecla, which threw np the watei
to a great height, sending forth at the same time a
noise like the report of a great gun. From this pe-
riod to the 1st of July, the ships were occupied in
clearing the Nautilus of her stores, pre2>aratoiy to
her return home, occasionally made fast to a berg, or
driven out to sea by gales. On the 2d, after running
through heavy ice, they again made Ilesolutiou Island,
and shaping their course for the Strait, were soon in-
troduced to the company of some unusually large ice-
bergs. The altitude of one was 258 feet above the
surface of the sea ; its total height, therefore, allowing
one-seventh only to be visible, must have been aboul
1806 feet! This however, is supposing the base uii
der water not to spread beyond the mass above water
The vessels had scarcely drifted past this floating
mountain, when the eddy tide carried them with great
rapidity among a cluster of eleven bergs of huge
size, and having a beautiful diversity of form. The
largest of these was 210 feet above the water. The
floe ice was running wildly at the rate of three miles
an hour, sweeping the vessels past the bergs, against
any one of which, they might have received incalcu-
lable injury. An endeavor was made to make the
ships ftist to one of them, (for all of them were aground,)
in order to ride out the tide, but it proved unsuccess-
ful, and the Fury had much difficulty in sending a
boat for some men who were on a small berg, making
holes for her ice anchors. They were therefore swept
past and soon beset. Fifty-four icebergs were counted
from the mast-head.

On the 3d, they made some progress through very
heavy floes ; but on the tide turning, the loose ice flew
together with such rapidity and noise, that there was
barely time to secure the ships in a natural dock, be-
fore the two streams met, and even then they received
gome heavy shocks. Water was procured for use
from the pools in the floe to which the ships were
made fost ; and this being the first time of doing so,

each

PAKRY ti SiXOMlJ VOVAGK.

105

aflbrded great amusement to the novicci5, who, even
when it was their period of rest, preferred pelting
each other with snow-balls, to goin<:j to bed. BuHcfc-
ing with eddies, strong currents, and dangerous ])erg3,
they were ke])t in a state of anxiety and danger, for
a week or ten days. On one occasion, with the pros-
pect of being driven on shore, the pressure they ex-
]>erienced was so great, that five hawsers, six inches
thick, were carried away, and the be^^t bower anchor
of the Ilecla was wrenched from the bows, and broke
oft' at the head of the shank, with as mucli ease as if,
instead of weighing upward of a ton, it had been of
crockery ware. For a week they were embayed by
the ice, and during this period they saw three strange
ships, also beset, under llesolution Island, which they
contrived to join on the IGth of July, making fast to
a floe near them. They proved to be the Hudson's Bay
Company's traders, Prince of Wales, and Eddystone,
with the Lord Wellington, chartered to convey IGO
natives of Holland, who were proceeding to settle on
Lord Selkirk's estate, at the lied Iliver. " While
Hearing these vessels, (says Lyon,) we observed the
settlers waltzing on deck, for above two hours, the
men in old-fashioned gray jackets, and the women
wearing long-eared mob caps, like those used by the.
Swiss peasants. As we were surrounded by ice, and
the thermometer was at the freezing point, it may be
supposed that this ball, al vero fresco^ aftbrded us
much amusement." The Hudson's Bay ships had
left England twenty days after the expedition.

The emigrant ship had been hampered nineteen
da^^s among the ice before she joined the others ;
and as this navigation was new to her captain and crew,
they almost despaired of ever getting to their jour-
ney's end, so varied and constant had been their im-
pediments. The Dutchmen had, however, behaved
very philosophically during this period, and seemed
determined on being merry, in spite of the weather
and the dangers. Several marriages had taken place,
the surgeon, who was accompanying thcni to the col-

IOC

I'KOGUKSS OF ARCTIC J DISCOVKKV.

fiS.

ony, officiating as clerg3'man,) and many more wcro
in agitation ; each happy couple always (leferring the
ceremony until a fine day allowed of an evening ball,
which was only terminated by a fresh breeze, or a fall
of snow.* On the 17th, the ships were se])arated by
the ice, and they saw no more of their visitors. On
the 21st, they were only otf the Lower Savage Islands.
In the evening they saw a very large bear lying on a
piece of ice, and two boats were instantly sent oif in
chase. They approached very close before he took
to the water, when he swam rapidly, and made long
springs, turning boldly to face his pursuers. It was
with difficulty he was ca])tured. As these animals,
although very fat and bulky, sink the instant they die,
he was lashed to a boat, and brought alongside the
ship. On hoisting him in, they were astonished to
find that his weight exceeded sixteen hundred pounds,
being one of the largest ever killed. Two instances,
only, of larger bears being shot are recorded, and
these were by Barentz's crew, in his third voyage, at
Cherie Island, to w^hich they gave the name of Bear
Island. The two bears killed then, measured twelve
and thirteen feet, while this one only measured eight
feet eight inches, from the snout to the insertion of the
tail. The seamen ate the flesh without experiencing
any of those baneful effects which old navigators at-
tribute to it, and which are stated to have made three
of Barentz's people "so sick that we expected they
would have died, and their skins peeled off from
head to foot." Bruin was very fat, and having pro-
cured a tub of blubber from the carcass, it was thrown
over board, and the smell soon attracted a couple
of walruses, the first that had been yet seen.

They here fell in with a numerous body of the Es
quimaux, who visited them from the shore. ' In less
than an hour the ships were beset with thirty " ka-
yaks," or men's canoes, and five of the women's large
boats, or " oomiaks." Some of the latter held up-
ward of twenty women. A most noisy but merry
barter instantly took place, the crew being as anxious

* Lvou', Private.4**"'iial. p H.

ing,

; I

PARKY S SECOND VOYAGE.

107

to piircliase Esquimaux curiosities, as tlio natives were
to procure iron and European toys.

" It is quite out of my power, (observes Captain
Lyon,) to describe the shouts, yells, and laughter of
the savages, or the confusion which existed for two or
three hours. Tiie females were at first very shy, and
unwilling to come on the ice, but bartered every thing
from their boats. This timidity, however, soon wore
oil', and they, in the end, became as noisy and bois-
terous as the men." " It is scarcely possible, (he adds)
to conceive any thing more ugly or disgusting than
the countenances of tlie old women, who had inHamed
eyes, wrinkled skin, black teeth, and, in fact, such a
forbidding set of features as scarcely could be called
human ; to which might be added their dress, which
was such as gave them the appearance of aged ourang-
outangs. Frobisher's crew may be pardoned for hav-
ing, in such superstitious times as a. d. 1576, taken
one of these ladies for a witch, of whom it is said,
' The old wretch whom our sailors supposed to be a
witch, had her buskins pulled off, to see if she was
cloven-footed ; and being very ugly and deformed, we
let her go.' "

In bartering they have a lingular custom of ratify-
ing the bargain, by licking the article all over before
it is put away in security. Captain Lyon says he fre-
quently shuddered at seeing the children draw a razor
over their tongue, as unconcernedly as if it had been
an ivory paper-knife. I cannot forbear quoting here
some humorous passages from his journal, which stand
out in relief to the scientific and nautical parts of the
narrative.

" The strangers were so well pleased in our society,
that they showed no wish to leave us, and when the
market had quite ceased, they began dancing and
playing with our people, on the ice alongside. This
exercise set many of their noses bleeding, and discov-
ered to us a most nasty custom, which accounted for
their gory faces, and which was, that as fast as the
blood ran down, theT||Bcraped it with the fingers

)j||^CT

|«

i :i

1*1

■'■ vi i-'

108

I'liOGltESS OF .UCCTIC DlBCuVKliY.

into their mouths, appearing to consider it as a re-
freshment, or dainty, if we might judge by the zest

with which they smacked their lips at each supply."
* * * -X- * * * *

" In order to amuse our new acquaintances as much
as possible, the fiddler was sent on the ice, where he
instantly found a most delightful set of dancers, of
whom some of the women kept pretty good time.
Their only figure consisted in stamping and jumping
with all their might. Our musician, who was a lively
fellow, soqn caught the infection, and began cutting
capers also. In a short time every one on the floe,
ofKcers, men, and savages, were dancing together, and
exhibited one of the most extraordinary sights I ever
witnessed. One of our seamen, of a fresh, ruddy
complexion, excited the admiration of all the young
females, who patted his face, and danced around him
wherever he went.

" The exertion of dancing so exhilarated the Esqui-
maux, that they had the appearance of being boister-
ously drunk, and played many extraordinary pranks.
Among others, it was a favorite joke to run slily be-
hind the seamen, and shouting loudly in one ear, to
give them at the same time a very smart slap on the
other. While looking on, I was sharply saluted in this
manner, and, of course, was quite startled, to the
great amusement of the bystanders : our cook, who
was a most active and unwearied jumper, became so
great a favorite, that every one boxed his ears so
soundly, as to oblige the poor man to retire from such
boisterous marks of approbation. Among other
sports, some of the Esquimaux rather roughly, but
with great good humor, challenged our people to
wrestle. One man, in particular, who had thrown sev-
eral of his countrymen, attacked an officer of a very
strong make, but the poor savage was instantly thrown,
and with no very easy fall ; yet, although every one
was laughing at him, he bore it with exemplary good
liumor. The same officer afforded us much diversion
by teaching a large party of jjj^en to bow, courtesy,

I'AliKV S t^ECOMU VoVAGlJ.

hti)

sliiiko hands, turn their toes out, and perform sun-
(hy otlier polite acconiplishnients ; tlie whole party
master and pupils, })rer^ervini^ the strictest gravity.

''Toward midnight all our men, except the watch on
deck, turned in to their beds, and the fatigued and
hungry Es(|uiniaux returned to their boats to take tlieir
supper, which consisted of lumps of raw liesh and blub-
ber of seals, birds, entrails, itc. ; licking their fingers
with great zest, and with knives or lingers scraping the
blood and grease which ran down their chins into their
mouths."

Many other parties of the natives were fallen in with
during the slow progress of the ships, between Salisbury
and .Nottingham Ishmds, who were C(|ually as eager to
beg, barter, or thieve ; and the mouth was the general
repository of most of the treasures they received ; nee-
dles, pins, nails, buttons, beads, and other small etcete-
ras, being indiscriminately stowed there, but detracting
in nowise from their volubility of speech. On the loth
of August the weather being calm and fine, norwhals or
sea-miicorns, were very numerous about the ships, and
boats were sent, but without success, to strike one.
There were sometimes as many as twenty of these
beautiful fish in a shoal, lifting at times their immense
horn above the water, and at others showing their
glossy l)acks, wdiich were spotted in the manner of
coach dogs in England. The length of these fish is
about fifteen feet, exclusive of the horn, which averages
five or six more.

Captain Parry landed and sle])t on Southampton Isl-
and. His boat's crew caught in holes on the beach
sufficient sillocks, or young coal-fish, to serve for two
meals for the whole ship's company. During the night
white whales were seen Iving in hundreds close to the
rocks, probably feeding on the sillocks. Alter carefully
examining Duke of York Bay, the ships got into the
Frozen Strait of Middleton on the morning of the 20th,
and an anxious day was closed by passing an opening
to the southward, which was found to be Sir Thomas
Roe's Welcome, and heaving to for the night off a bay

p. j

i I

PR<)<il£i:SK (IF AK(J'1IC DISC'oVKliY.

to tlio noi'tliwcst. Tlio bliips got woll in to Rcpulso
J Jay on the 22(1, and u, ciiret'ul examination of its bliores
^vaH made by tlie boats.

Ca])tain8 l*arry and Lyon, with several officers from
eacli ship, landed and exj^lored the nortliern shoren,
"vvliile a boat examined the head of the bay. The wa-
terH of a long cove are described by Cajitain Lyon aa
being absolutely hidden by tlio quantities of young
eider-ducks, whieh, under the direction of their moth-
ers, were making tiieir lirst essays in swimming.

Captain Lyon with a boat's crew made a trip of a
couple ot" days along some of the indents of the bay,
and discovered an inlet, which, however, on being en-
tered subseqnently by the ships, proved only to be the
dividing channel between an island and tlic main-land,
about six miles in length by one in breadth. Proceed-
ing to the northward by Ilurd's channel, they expe-
rienced a long rolling ground swell setting against them.
On the 28th, ascending a steep mountam, Captain
Lyon discovered a noble bay, subsequently named Gor )
Bay, in which lay a few islands, and toward this thof
directed their course.

Captain Parry, who had been two days absent wit 'i
boats exploring the channel and shores of the strait, r^^-
turned on the 29th, but set off again on the same day
with six boats to sound and examine more minutel*".
When Parry returned at ni^ht, Mr. Griffiths, of tl e
If eel a, brought on board a large doe, which he had
killed while swimming (among large masses of ice) fro. a
isle to isle ; two others and a fawn were procured c n
shore by the Fury's people. The game laws, as thv/y
w^ere laid down on the former voyage while winteri\ 3
at Melville Island, were once more put in force. Thety
" enacted that for the purpose of economizing the shi(rs
provisions, all deer or musk-oxen killed should bo
served out in lieu of the usual allowance of meat.
Hares, ducks, and other birds were not at this time to
be included. As an encouragement to sportsmen, the
head, lege, and oftal of the larger animals were to bo
tlio ])erquisites of those who procured the carcasses for

I'AIiliV si Si:o>M» VoVAtil..

iii

the ircnoral m»ijd."' "In the iiniiiialri of tlils cUiv (wb-
rerve.s Lvoiij we were coiiviiiced thiit our sportsmen
had n^t t'orujotteu the hititude to whieh their pen|uisitt'S
luiu'lit le-i'allv extend, lor tlie iieck^ wore made so hm;'
as to encroach considei'iiblj on the vertebrie of tlie
liack; a manner of anipiitutiug the heads winch liad
been learned during the former voyage, and, no doubl,
would be strictly acted up to in the present one/'

AVhile the ships on the 30th were proceeding through
this strait, having to contend with heavy wind and
wild ice, which with an impetuous tide ran against tho
rocks with loud crashes, at the rate of live knots in tho
center stream; four boats towing astern were torn
away Ijy the ice, and, with the men in them, were for
some time in great danger. The vessels anchored for
the night in a small nook, and weighing at daylight
<iii the olst, they stood to the eastward, but Gore Bay
v/jis found closely packed with ice, and most of the in-
lets they passed were also Beset.

A ])revalence of fog, northerly wind, and heavy ico
in Hoes of some miles in circumference, now carried
i!ie ships, in spite of constant labor and exertions, in
thive days, back to tho very spot in Fox's Channel,
Avhere a month ago they had commenced their o])era-
tions. It was not till the 5th of September, that they
could again get forward, and then by one of the usual
clianges in the navigation of these seas, the ships ran
well to the northeast imimpeded, at the rate of six
knots an hour, anchoring for the night at the mouth of
a large opening, which was named Lyon Inlet. The
in'xt (lay they proceeded about twenty-five miles up
til is inlet, which appeared to be about eight miles broad.
Captain Parry pushed on with two boats to examine
the head of the inlet, taking provisions for a week,
lie returned on the 14th, having failed in finding any
outlet to the place he had been examining, which was
yvvy extensive, full of fiords and rapid overfalls of the
tide. lie had procured a sufficiency of game to afford
liis people a hot supper every evening, which, aftei'the
constant labor of the day, was highly acceptable. He

i''a

\i'^:

rnoOKKFS (W AKnir J»IS((;Vi:UV.

fell in nlfio with a fiiiiall purtv of n»ativon \^ ho disphiycd
thu usual thioving ])ropeMsitu's.

Animal food of all kindrt vciih found to ho very i)k'n-
tiful in this locality. A tine salmon trout was I)r<)Ught
down by one of the olHecrs from a lake in the moun-
tains. The crew of thellecla killed in a fortnight four
deer, forty hares, eighty -two ptarmigan, lifty duck.s,
three divers, three foxes, three ravens, four seals, er-
inine.>«, marmottes, mice, i^c. Two of the seals kilKd
M'ere immense animals of tlie hearded species {/'/toed
h<i/'lafa^ yavy fat, weighing al)0ut eight or nine cwt.;
the others were the connnon fi])Gcies, {I*, vitulina.)

Captain Parry again left in boats, on the 15th, to ex-
amine more carefully the land that had been paiiised so
ra])idly on the 5th and Cth. Not Imding Inm return
on the 24th, Captain Lyon ran down "the coast to meet
liim, and by burning blue lights, fell in with him at
ten that night. It appeared he had been frozen up
for two days on the second evening after leaving.
When he got clear he ran down to, and sailed round.
Gore Bay, at that time perfectly clear of ice, but by
the next morning it was quite lilled with heavy pieces,
which much impeded his return. Once more he was
frozen up in a small bay, where he was detained three
days ; when, finding there was no chance of getting
out, in consequence of the rapid formation of young
ice, by ten hours' severe labor, the boats were carried
over a low point of land, a mile and a half wide, and
once more launched.

On the 6th of October, the impediments of ice con-
tinuing to increase, being met with in all its formations
of sludges or young ice, pancake ice and bay ice, a
small open bay within a cape of land, forming the
southeast extremity of an island off Lyon Inlet, was
sounded, and being found to be safe anchorage the ships
were brought in, and, from the indications which were
Betting in, it was finally determined to secure them there
for the winter ; by means of a canal half a mile long,
which was cut, they were taken further into the bay.
The island was named Winter Isle.

Preparations were now made for occupation an^'

rAliliv's BIXOND VoYAOK.

113

I li

ttmiiRcmcnt, bo as to pass away pleasantly tlio period
of detention. A good stoek of tlieatrical dresses and
i»roj)ertie9 liaving been laid in by the ofHeers before
leaving England, arrangements were made for perform-
ing plays fortnightly, as on their last winter residence,
as a means of amusing the seamen, and in some degree
to break the tedious monotony of their confinement. As
tliere could bo no desire or hope of excelling, every
officer's name was readily entered on the list of ilra^
mdtis pcrsonw^ Captain Lyon kindly undertaking the
difficult ofiice of manager. Those ladies (says Lyon^
who had cherished the growth of their beards ana
whiskers, as a defense against the inclemency of tho
climate, now generously agreed to do away with such
unfeminine ornaments, and every thing bade fair for a
most stylish theater.

As a curiosity, I may hero put on record the play
bill for the evening. I nave added tho ship to which
each officer belonged.

THEATER ROYAL,

WINTER ISLE.

The Public aro respectfully informed that this little, »'
yet elegant Theater, will open for the season on Fri-
day next, the 9th of November, 1821, when will be
performed Sheridan's celebrated Comedy of

THE RIVALS.

Sir Anthony Absolute Captain Parry, {Fury)
Ca^g^bin Absolute - - Captain Lyon, {JTeola.)
Slrmt^ius O^ Trigger y Mr. Crozier, {Fury)
FaitafUmd, - - - - Mr. J. Edwards, (Fury.)

Acrei^ Mr. J. Henderson, (Fury.)

Fayy ------ Lieut. Hoppner, (Ilecla.)

David, .-.--- Lieut. Reid, (Fury.)
Mrs. Malaprop, - - Mr. C. Richards, (Ilecla.)

- Mr. W. H. Hooper, (Fury.)
- Mr. J. Sherer, (Ilecla.)

- Mr. W. Mogg, (crk of Ilecla.)

Julia,

Lydia Languish,

Lucy, - . - -

I'KuUKKft^ ul' AUtTlC Dl^CUVEUV.

Solids l)y ^resrti'H. (y. Palmer, (llccla,) and J. Ilcii-
dcr.sun, will bo intruducud in tho courtio of the eve-
ning.

On the 17th of December, a Blilvcring set of actors
jjerformed to a great-coated, yet very cold audience,
the comedy of the 'Toor (ientleman." A burst of
true English feeling was exhibited during the perform-
ance of this ])lay. In tho scene whoro jJeut. Worth-
infjto)i and Corporal J^o.sff recount in so animated a
nuinner. their former achievements, advancing at tho
same time, and huzzaing for " Old Knghind," tho
whole audience, with one accord, rose and gave three
most hearty cheers. They then sat down, and tho
play continued uninterrupted.

On Christmas Eve, in order to keep tho peoi)lo
quiet and sober, two farces were performed, and tho
phantasmagoria, (which had been kindly presented
anonymously to the ships before leaving, by a lady,)
exhibited, so that the night passed merrily away.

The coldness of the weather proved no bar to tho
performance of a play at tho appointed time. If it
uniused the seamen, the purpose was answered, but it
was a cruel task to performers. " In our green-room,
(says Lyon,) which was as mucli warmed as any other
part of the Theater, the thermometer stood at 10°, and
on a table which was placed over a stove, and about
six inches above it, tho coffee froze in the cups. For
my sins, I was obliged to be dressed in the height of
the fashion, as Dick Dowlas, in the " Heir at Law,"
and went through the last scene of the play with
two of my fingers frost-bitten 1 Let those who havo
witnessed and admired the performances of a Young,
answer if he could possibly ha/e stood so cold a recep-
tion."

Captain Parry also states in his Journal, " Among
the recreations which afibrded the highest gratifica-
tion to several among us, I may mention the musical
])arties we were enabled to muster, and which assem-
bled on stated evenings throughout the winter, alter

L.'i^kA^'lakl^iL.^^' i.

# w

More si
at thesi
them tc
assured
the glo
pleasur
of aftbr
tion afl
Bcarcelj
whose I
with ' XI
rememl
those as
we are
still oc(
our frie:
twecn u
mere ar
an appli
to open
ceded t
could w
disuse, i

Mr. E
the Fur}?
educatec
in the 1
in the ii
progress
Lyon sti
who, tw<
These li
with as
little sch

An ol
on magr
tions. I
were cai
the 25tl

•)

rAKliV H tJECOKD VOYAGE.

115

n \tel/ 1^1 Ccix^mander Lyon's cabin, and in my own.
More skillful amateurs in music might well have smiled
at these, our humble concerts, but it will not incline
them to think less of the science they admire, to be
assured that, in these remote and desolate regions of
the globe, it has often furnished us with the most
pleasurable sensations which our situation was capable
of aftbrding ; for, independently of the mere gratifica-
tion aftbrded to the ear by music, there is, perhaps,
scarcely a person in the world really fond of it, in
whose mind its sound is not more or less connected
with * his far distant home.' There are always some
remembrances which render them inseparable, and
those associations are not to be despised, which, while
we are engaged in the performance of our duty, can
still occasionally transport us into the social circle of
our friends at home, in spite of the oceans that roll be-
tween us." But their attention was not confined to
mere amusements. Much to the credit of the seamen,
an application was made in each ship for permission
to open an evening school, which was willingly ac-
ceded to. Almost every man could read, and some
could write a little, but several found that, from long
disuse, it was requisite to begin again.

Mr. Halse volunteered to superintend the classes in
the Fury; while Benjamin White,aseaman, whohad been
educated at Christ's Hospital, officiated as schoolmaster
in the Hecla, and those best qualified to assist aided
in the instruction of their shipmates, who made rapid
progress under their tuition. On Christmas Day, Capt.
Lyon states that he received sixteen copies from men>
who, two months before, scarcely knew their letters.
These little specimens were all well written, and sent
with as much pride as if the writers had been good
little schoolboys, instead of stout and excellent seamen.

An observatory was erected on shore, for carrying
on magnetical, astronomical, and other scientific opera-
tions. Foxes were very plentiful about the ships ; fifteen
were caught in one trap in four hours on the night of
the 25th of October, and above one hundred were

■* i

;' '11

ml0

110

i»rogij:ss of akctic discovery,

cither trapped or killed in the course of three montlis,
and yet there seemed but little diminution in their
numbers. Captain Lyon says he found them not bad
eating, the flesh much resembling that of kid. A pack
of thirteen wolves came occasionally to have a look at
the ships, and on one occasion broke into a snow-house
alongside, and walked off with a couple of Esquimaux
dogs confined there. Bears now and then also made
their apj^earance.

A very beautiful eraiine walked on board the Ilecla
one day, and was caught in a small trap placed on the
deck, certainly the first of these animals which was
ever taken alive on board a ship 400 yards from the
land. The ravenous propensities of even some of tlio
smallest members of the animal kingdom are exempli-
fied by the following extract : —

" We had for some time observed that in the fire-
hole, which was kept open in the ice alongside, a count-
less multitude of small shrimps were constantly rising
near the surface, and we soon found that in twenty-four
hours they would clean, in the most beautifiil manner,
the skeletons."

After attending divine service on Christmas day, the
officers and crews sat down to the luxury of joints of
English roast beef, which had been kept untainted by
being frozen, and the outside rubbed with salt. Cran-
berry pics and puddings, of every shape and size, with
a full allowance of spirits, followed, and, probably the
natural attendance of headaches succeeded, for the
next morning it was deemed expedient to send all the
people for a rnu on the ice, in order to put them to
riglitrt ; but thick weather coming on, it became neces-
yaiy to recall them, and, postponing the dinner hour,
they were all danced sober by one o'clock, the fiddler
being, fortunately, quite as he should be. During this
curious ball, a witty fellow attended as an old cake
woman, with lumps of frozen snow in a bucket ; and
such was the demand for his pies on this occasion, that
he was obliged to replenish pretty frequently. The
year had now drawn to a close, and all enjoyed excel-

parry's second voyage.

117

lent health, and were blessed with good spirits, and zeal
for the renewal of their arduous exertions in the sum-
mer.

No signs of scurvy, the usual plague of such voy-
ages, had occurred, and by the plans of Captain Parry,
as carried out on the former voyage, a sufficiency of
mustard and cress was raised between decks to afibrd
all hands a salad once, and sometimes twice a week.
The cold now became intense. Wine froze in the bot-
tles. Port was congealed into thin pink lamina;, which
lay loosely, and occupied the whole length of the bot-
tle. White wine, on the contrary, froze into a solid
and perfectly transparent mass, resembling amber.

On the 1st of February the monotony of their life
was varied by the arrival of a largo party of Esqui-
maux, and an interchange of visits thenceforward took
place with this tribe, which, singularly enough, were
proverbial for their honesty. Ultimately, however,
they began to display some thievish propensities, for
on one evening in March a most shocking theft was
committed, which was no less than the last piece of
English corned beef from the midshipmen's mess.
Had it been an 181b. carronade, or even one of the an-
chors, the thieves would have been welcome to it ; but
to purloin English beef in such a country was unpar-
donable.

On the 15th of March Caj^tain Lyon, Lieutenant
Palmer, and a party of men, left the ship, with pro-
visions, tents, &c., in a large sledge, for an excursion
of three or four days, to examine the land in the neigh-
borhood of the ships.

The first night's encampment was anything l)ut com-
fortable. Their tent they found so cold, that it was
determined to make a cavern in the snow to sleep in ;
and digging this aftbrded so good an opportunity of
warming themselves, that the only shovel was lent from
one to the other as a particular favor. After digging
it of sufficient size to contain them all in a sitting ]5os-
ture, by means of the smoke of a fire they managed to
raise the temperature to 20°, and, closing the entranco

■

' ;i ■''

jUit

Ir.

iji::

f li

118

PKOORESK OF AKCTIC DWCOVliKY.

with blocks of snow, crept into their blanket bags and
tried to sleep, with the pleasant reflection that their
roof might fall in and bury them all, and that their ono
spade was the only means of liberation after a night's
di-ift of snow.

They woke next morning to encounter a heavy galo
and drift, and found their sledge so embedded in the
snow that they could not get at it, and in the attemi)t
their faces and extremities were most painfully frost-
bitten. The thermometer was at 32° below zero ; they
could not*, moreover, see a yard of the road ; yet to re-
main appeared worse than to go forward — the last
plan was, therefore, decided on. The tent, sledge, and
luggage were left; behind, and with only a few pounds
of bread, a little rum, and a spade, the party again set
out ; and in order to depict their sufterings, I must take
up the narrative as related by the commander himself :

"Not knowing where to go, we wandered among
the heavy hummocks of ice, and sufiering from cold,
fatigue and anxiety, were soon completely bewildered.
Several of our party now began to exhibit symptoms
of that horrid kind of insensibility which is the pre-
lude to sleep. They all professed extreme willingness
to do what they were told in order to keep in exercise,
but none obeyed ; on the contrary, they reeled about
like drunken men. The faces of several were severely
frost-bitten, and some had for a considerable time lost
sensation in their fingers and toes ; yet they made not
the slightest exertion to rub the paints afiected, and even
discontinued their general custom of warming each
other on observing a discoloration of the skin. Mr.
Pahner employed the people in building a snow wall,
ostensibly as a shelter from the wind, but in fact to
give them exercise, when standing still must have
proved fatal to men in our circumstances. My atten-
tion was exclusively directed to Sergeant Speckman,
who, having been repeatedly warned that his nose was
frozen, had paid no attention to it, owing to the state
of stupefaction into which he had fallen. The frost-
bite had now extended over one side of his face, which

parry's second voyage.

119

'vvas frozen as hard as a mask ; the eyelids were stiftj
and one corner of the upper lip so drawn np as to
expose the teeth and gums. My hands being still
warm, I had the happiness of restoring the circulation,
after which I used all ray endeavors to keep the poor
fellow in motion ; but he complained sadly of giddi-
ness and dimness of sight, and was so weak as to be
unable to walk without assistance. His case was so
alarming, that I expected every moment he would lie
down, never to rise again.

" Our prospect now became every moment more
gloomy, and it was but too probable that tour of our
party would be unable to survive anotlier hour. Mr.
ralmer, however, endeavored, as well as myself, to
cheer the people up, but it was a faint attempt, as wo
had not a single hope to give them. Every piece of
ice, or even of small rock or stone, was now supposed
to be the ships, and we had great difficulty in prevent-
ing the men from running to the different objects which
attracted them, and consequently losing themselves in
the drift. In this state, while Mr. Palmer was running
round us to warm himself, he suddenly pitched on a
new beaten track, and as exercise was indispensable,
we determined on following it, wherever it might lead
us. Having taken the Sergeant under my coat, he re-
covered a little, and we moved onward, when to our
infinite joy we found that the path led to the ships."

As the result of this exposure, one man had two of
his fingers so badly frost-bitten as to lose a good deal
of the flesh of the upper ends, and for many days it
was feared that he would be obliged to have them am-
putated. Quarter-master Carr, one of those who had
been the most hardy while in the air, fainted twice on
getting below, and every one had severe frost-bites in
different parts of the boay, which recovered after the
usual loss of skin in these cases.

One of the Esquimaux females, by name Igloolik,
who plays a conspicuous part in the narrative, was a
general favorite, being possessed of a large find of
useful information, having a good voice and ear for

II I

120

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

music, being an excellent seamstress, and liaving such
a good idea of the hydrography and bearings of the
neighboring sea-coasts, as to draw charts which guided
Parry much in his future operations, fur he found lier
sketches to be in the main correct. She connected the
jand from their winter quarters to the northwest sea,
rounding and terminating the northern extremity of
this part of America, by a large island, and a strait of
sufficient magnitude to aftbrd a safe passage for the
ships. This little northwest passage, observes Lyon,
set us all 'castle-building, and we already fancied the
worst part of our voyage over ; or, at all events, that
before half the ensuing summer was past, we should
arrive at Akkoolee, the Esquimaux settlement on the
western shore. Half-way between that coast and Re
pulse Bay, Igloolik drew on her chart a lake of consid-
erable size, naving small streams running from it to
the sea, on each side ; and the correctness of this infor-
mation was fully proved by Eae in his recent expedi-
tion in 1846.

On the 13th of April their Esquimaux friends took
their dej^arture for other quarters ; towards the end of
the month the crews completed the cutting of trenches
round the vessels, in order that they might rise to their
proper bearings previous to working in the holds, and
the ships floated like corks on their native element,
after their long imprisonment of 191 days. As the
season appeared to be improving, another land expedi-
tion was determined on, and Captain Lyon and Lieu-
tenant Palmer, attended by a party of eight men, set
oft* on the 8th of May, taking with them twenty days'
provisions. Each man drew on a sledge 126 lbs., and
the officers 95 lbs. a-piece.

" Loaded as we were," says the 'eader, "it was with
the greatest difficulty we made our way among and
over the hummocks, ourselves and sledges taking some
very unpleasant tumbles. It required two and a half
hours to rross the ice, although the distance was not
two miles, and We then landed on a small island, where
we passed the night."

■.^sL.

TAJRliY S SECOND VOYAGE.

121

i^Lvei-al islands and shoals in the strait were named
Bird's Isles. At noon on the 11th, they camped at the
head of a fine bav, to which the name of IJlakc was
mven. In spite of all the care which had been taken
by using crape shades, and other coverings fur the eyes,
live of the party became severely afflicted with snow
blindness. Before evening two of the sufferers were
quite blinded by the inflammation. Their facen, eyes,
and even heads, being much swollen, and very red.
Bathing would have afforded relief, but the nun did not
produce a droj) of water, and their stock of fuel l)eing
limited, they could only spare enough wood to thaw
snow for their midday draught.

As the morning of the 12th brought no change in the
invalids, another day was lost. Toward evening, by
breaking pieces of ice, and placing them in the full
glare of the sun, sufficient water was obtained, botli for
drinking and for the sick to bathe their faces, which
afforded them amazing relief, and on the morrow they
were enabled to resume their journey. At noon the
sun was sufficiently powei*fal to afford the travelers a
draught of water, without having to thaw it, as had
hitherto been the case.

For nearly three days after this, they were imprisoned
in their low tent by a snow-storm, but on the morning
of the 18th, they were enabled to sally out to stretch
their legs, and catch a glimpse of the sun. After exam-
ining many bays and indentations of the coast, the party
returned to the ships on the evening of the 21st. A
canal was now cut through the ice, to get the ships to
the open water, in length 2400 feet, and varying in
breadth from 60 to 197 teet. The average thickness of
the ice was four feet, but in some places it was as much
as twelve feet. This truly arduous task had occupied the
crews for fifteen days, from six in the morning to eight
in the evening ; but they labored at it with the greatest
spirit and good humor, and it was concluded on the 18th
of June, when the officers and men began to take leave
of their several haunts and promenades, particularly
the " garden " of each ship, which had become favorite

122

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

lounges during their nine months' detention. A few
ill-fated bunting came near enough to be shot, and were
instantly roasted for a farewell supper, and bright vis-
ions of active exertions on the water on the morrow
were universally entertained. But the night dispelled
all these airy castles, for with the morning's dawn they
found that the whole body of ice astern of the ships
had broke adrift, filled up the hard-wrought canal, and
imprisoned them as firm as ever.

Death now for the first time visited the crews. James
Pringle, a seaman of the Hecla, fell from the mast-head
to the deck, and was killed on the 18th of May. Wm.
Souter, quarter-master, and John Reid, Carpenter's
mate, belonging to the Fury, died on the 26th and 27th,
of natural causes. Toward the end of June, the sea
began to clear rapidly to the eastward, and the bay ice
soon gave way as far as where the ships were lying, and
on the 2d of July they put to sea with a fresh breeze,
after having been frozen in for 267 days.

In making their way to the northward, they were fre-
quently in much danger. On the 3d, the ice came
down on the Hecla witn such force as to carry her on
board the Fury, by which the Hecla broke her best bower
anchor, and cut her waist-boat in two. On the 4th, the
pressure of the ice was so great as to break the Hecla
adrift fi'om three hawsers. Four or five men were each
on separate pieces of ice, parted from the ships in the
endeavor to run out a hawser. A heavy pressure closing
the loose ice unexpectedly gave them a road on board
again, or they must have been carried away by the
stream to certain destruction. On the 8th, the JEEecla
had got her stream-cable out, in addition to the other
hawsers, and made fast to the land ice, when a very
heavy and extensive floe took the ship on her broad
side, and being backed by another large body of ice,
gradually lifted her stem as if by the action of a wedge.

" The weight every moment increasing, obliged us,"
says Captain Lyon, " to veer on the hawsers, whose fric-
tion was so great as nearly to cut through the bitt-heads,
and ultimately to set them on fire, so that it became

■iiri^J^

PAHUy's SECO.'ID \\)V 'UC.

123

requisite for people to attend with buckets of water.
The pressure was at length too powerful for resistance,
and the stream-cable, with two six and one live-inch
hawsers, all gave way at the same moment, three others
60on following them. The sea was too full of ice to
allow the ship to drive, and the* only way in which she
could yield to the enormous weight whicli oppressed her,
was by leaning over on the land ice, while her stem at
the same time was entirely lifted to above the height ot
five feet out of the water. The lower deck beams now
complained very much, and the whole frame of tlio
ship underwent a trial which would have proved fatal
to any less strengthened vessel. At the same moment,
the rudder was unhung with a sudden jerk, which broke
up the rudder-case, and struck the driver-boom with
great force."

From this perilous position she was released almost
by a miracle, and the rudder re-hung.

The ships av last reached the island which had been so
accurately described to them by the Esquimaux lady —
Iglolik, where they came upon an encampment of
120 Esquimaux, in tents. Captains Parry and Lyon
and other officers made frequent exploring excursions
along the shores of the Fury and Hecla strait, and in-
land. On the 26th of August the ships entered tliis
strait, which was found blocked up with flat ice. The
season had also now assumed so wintry an aspect that
there seemed but little probability of getting much far-
ther west : knowing of no harbor to protect the ships,
unless a favorable change took place, they had the
gloomy prospect before them of wintering in or near
this frozen strait. Boating and land parties were dis-
patched in several directions, to report upon the differ-
ent localities.

On the 4th of September, Captain Lj^on landed on
an island of slate formation, about six mdes to the west-
ward of the ships, which he named Amherst Island. The
result of these expeditions proved that it was impracti-
cable, either by boats or water conveyance, to examine
any part of the land southwest of Iglolik, in conse-
quence of the ice.

;i p !

121

I'liOOULSS UK AKCTICJ 1JI8C0VKRY.

Mr. Roid and a boat-party traveled about sixty miles
to the westward of Ainherrit Island, and ascertained the
termination ot* the strait. On a consultation with the
otiicers, Captain l*arry determined to seek a berth near
to Iglolik, in which to secure tl»e ships for the winter.
They had now been sixty-live days strug^linf^ to get
forward, but had only in that time reached forty miles
to the westward of Iglolik. The vessels made tiie best
of their way to the natural channel between this island
and the land, but were for some time drifted with the
ice, losing several anchors, and it M'as only bv hard
work in cutting channels that they were brought into
safer quarters, near the land. Som-.^ fine teams of dogs
were here purchased from the Esquimaux, which were
found very serviceable in making excursions on sledges.

Their second Christmas day in this region bad now
arrived, and Lyon informs us —

" Captain Parry dined with me, and was treated wit .
a superb display of mustard and cress, with about fifty
onions, rivaling a fine needle in size, which I had reared
in boxes round my cabin stove. All our messes in
either ship were supplied with an extra pound of real
English fresh beef, which had been hanging at our
quarter for eighteen months. We could not afford to
leave it for a farther trial of keeping, but I have no doubt
that double the period would not have quite spoiled its
flavor."

This winter proved much more severe than the for-
mer. Additional clothing was found necessary. The
Btove funnels collected a quantity of ice within them,
notwithstanding fires were kept up night and day, so
that it was frequently requisite to take them down in
order to break and melt the ice out of them.

Nothing was seen of the sun for forty -two days.

On the 15th of April, Mr. A. Elder, Greenland mate
of the Hecla, died of dropsy: he had been leading man
with Parry on Ross's voyage, and for his good conduct
SVas made mate of the Griper, on the last expedition.

On the 6th of September, 1823, Mr. George Fife, the
pilot, also died of scurvy.

"ig

-. j^V ^-■t.-l.

PARRV'S SECOND VOYAOE.

125

After taking n review of their provisions, and the

1)rohabiUty of having to pass a thira winter here, Capt.
*arry detenuined to send the Ilecla home, taking from
her all the provision that could be spared. Little or
no hopes could he entertained of anv passage being
found to the westward, otherwise than by the strait now
BO firmly closed with ice ; but Parry trusted that some
interesting additions might be made to the geography
of tliese dreary regions, by attempting a passage to the
northward or eastward, in hopes of finding an outlet to
Lancaster Sound, or Prince Kegent's Lalet.

On the 21st of April, 1823, they began transshipping
the provisions ; the teams of dogs being found moat
useful for this purpose. Even two anchors of 22 cwt.
each, were drawn by these noble animals at a quick
trot.

Upon admitting daylight at the stern windows of the
Ilecla, on the 22d, tno gloomy, sootv cabin showed to
no great advantage ; no less than ten buckets of ice were
taken from the sashes and out of the stern lockers, from
which latter some spare flannels and instruments were
only liberated bv chopping.

On the 7th o^ June, Captain Lyon, with a party of
men, set off across the Melville Peninsula, to endeavor
to get a sight of the western sea, of which they had re-
ceived descriptive accounts from the natives, but ow-
ing to the difficulties of traveling, and the ranges of
mountains they met with, they returned unsuccessful,
after being out twenty days. Another inland trip of a
fortnight followed.

On the Ist of August, the Hecla was reported ready
for sea. Some symptoms <3f scurvy having again made
their appearance in the ships, and the surgeons report-
ing that it would not be prudent to continue longer,
Captain Parry reluctantly determined to proceed home
with both ships. After being 319 days in their winter
quarters, the ships got away on the 9th of August.

A conspicuous landmark, with dispatches, was set
up on the main-land, for the information of Franklin,
should ho reach thia quarter.

liiil

Sif.l

120

rUOGULSa OK AKOTIC DISCuVKKY.

On roachin^ Winter Island, and visitinfy tlicir las
year's j^arden, radiHlios, nuistard and crosM, and «.»ni()nA
were })rou«;ht off, which liad survived the winter and
were still alive, seventeen months from the time they
were }>lanted, a very remarkable j)root' of their having
been preserved by the warm coverin<r of snow.

The ships, during the whole of this passage, were
driven by the current more than three degrees, entirely
at the mercy of the ice, being carried into every bight,
and swept over each point, without the power of heli>
ing themselves.

On the 1st of September, they were driven up Lyon
Inlet, where they were confined high up till the Cth,
when a breeze sprung up, which took tliem down to
within three miles of Wmter Island ; still it was not
until the 12th, that they got thorougldy clear of the in-
draught. The danger and suspense of these twelve
days were horrible, and Lyon justly observes, that he
would prefer being frozen up during another eleven
months winter, to again passing so anxious a period
of time.

" Ten of the twelve nights were passed on deck, in
expectation, each tide, of some decided change in our
affairs, either by being left on the rocks, or grounding
in such shoal water, that the whole body of the ice must
have slid over us. But, as that good old seaman Baffin
expresses himself, ' God, who is greater than either ice
or tide, always delivered us I '"

For thirty-five days the ships had been beset, and in
that period had driven with the ice above 300 miles,
without any exertion on their part, and also without a
possibility of extricating themselves. On the 23d of
September, they once more got into the swell of tho
Atlantic, and on the 10th of October, arrived at Ler-
wick, in Shetland.

Claveeing's Voyage to Spitzbergen and Greebt-

LAND, 1823.

^ In 1823, Capt. Sabine, E. A., who had been for some
time engaged in magnetic observations, and alio in

..i. -iv,a^A-^.._iia<P.-.l,1'^l.r.

CLAVEIiINO S VOVAOK.

127

experiments to doterinino the confif^urntion of the earth,
by means of peiululuia vil)nition8 in ciitVerent latitudes,
havin«' perfected his observations at ditierent points,
from tlie E(piator to the Arctic Circle, suggested to the
Royal Society, through Sir Humphry Davy, tlie imi)or-
tanco of extending similar experiments into hi«^her lat-
itudes toward the l*ole. Accordin<^ly, the fjovernmcnt
placed at his disposal 11. M. S. Griper, TJO tons. Com-
mander Claverin^, which was to convey him to Spitz-
bersjen, and thence to the east coast of Greenland.

Tlio Griper sailed from the Nore, on the 11th of May,
and proceeded to llaramerfest, or Whale Island, near
the ISorth Cape, in Korway, which she reached on* the
4th of Juno, and Capt. Sabine having tinished his shore
observations by the 23d, the vessel set sail for Spitzber-
gen. She fell in with ice off Cherry Island, in hit. 75°
5', on the 27th, and on the 30th disembarked the tents
and instruments on one of the small islands round
Ilakluyt's Headland, near the eightieth parallel. Cupt.
Clavering, meanwhile, sailed in the Griper due north,
and reached the latitude of 80° 20', whei'e being stop-
ped by close packed ice, he was obliged to return.

On the 24th of July, they again put to sea, directing
their course for the highest known point of the eastern
coast of Greenland. They met with many fields of ice,
and made the land, which had a most miserable, deso-
late appearance, at a point which was named Cape Uor-
lase Warren. Two islands were discovered, and as
Capt. Sabine here landed and carried on his observa-
tions, they were called Pendulum Islands. From an
island situate in lat. 75° 12', to which he gave the name
of Shannon Island, Clavering saw high land, stretch-
ing due north as far as lat. 76°.

On the 16th of August, Clayering landed with a

f)arty of tliree oflScors, and sixteen men on the main-
and, to examine the shores. The temperature did not
sink below 23°, and they slept for nearly a fortnij^ht
they were on shore with only a boat-cloak and blanket
for a covering, without feeling any inconvenience from
the cold. A tribe of twelve Esquimaux was met with

t '

|< •}:^

'§

128

PEOQEESS OF AEOnO DISCOVEET.

here. They reached in their journey a magnificenl
inlet, about fifty miles in circumference, which was sup-
posed to be the same which Gale Hamkes discovered
in 1654, and which bears his name. The mountains
round its sides were 4000 to 5000 feet high. On the
29th of August, they returned on board, and having
embarked the tents and instruments, the ship again set
sail on the 31st, keeping the coast in view to Capo
Parry, lat. 72 i°. The cliffs were observed to be sev-
eral thousand feet high. On the 13th of September,
as the ice in shore began to get very troublesome, the
ship stood out to sea, and after encountering a very
heavy gale, which drove them with great fury to the
southward, and it not being thought prudent to make
for Ireland, a station in about the same latitude on the
Norway coast was chosen instead by Capt. Sabine.
They made the land about the latitude of Christian-
Bound. On the 1st of October, the Griper struck hard
on a sunken rock, but got off undamaged.

On the 6th, they anchored in Drontheim Fiord,
where they were received with much kindness and hos-
pitality, and after the necessary observations had been
completed the ship proceeded homeward, and reached
Deptford on the 19th of December, 1823.

Lyon's Yoyage in the Geipee.

In 1824, three expeditions were ordered out, to carry
on simultaneous operations in Arctic discovery. To
Capt. Lyon was committed the task of examining and
completing the survey of the Melville Peninsula, the
adjoming straits, and the shores of Arctic America, if
possible as far as Franklin's turning point. Capt. Lyon
was therefore gazetted to the Griper gun-brig, which
had taken out Capt. Sabine to Spitzbergen, in the pre-
vious year. The following officers and crew were also
appointed to her : —

Chiper.

Captain — G.F.Lyon.

Lieutenants — P. Jlanico and F. Harding.

„M.

LYON'S VOYAGE.

129

Assistant-Surveyor — E. N. Kendal.
Purser — J.Evans. *

Assistant-Surgeon — "W". Leyson.
Midshipman — J. Tom.
34 Petty Officers, Seamen, &c.
Total complement, 41.

It was not till the 20tK of June, that the Griper got
hway from England, being a full month later than the
usual period of departure, and the vessel was at the
Lest.but an old tub in her sailing propensities. A small
tender, called the Snap, was ordered to accompany her
with stores, as far as the ice, and having been relieved
of her supplies, she was sent home on reaching Hud-
son's Straits.

The Griper made but slow progress in her deeply la-
den state, ner crowded decks being continually swept
by heavy seas, and it was not until the end of August,
that she rounded the southern head of Southampton
Island, and stood up toward Sir Thomas Koe's wel
come. On reaching the entrance of this channel they
encountered a terrific gale, which for a long time
threatened the destruction of both ship and crew.
Drifting with this, they brought up the ship with four
anchors, in a bay with five fathoms and a half water,
in the momentary expectation that with the ebb tide
the ship would take the ground, as the sea broke fear-
fully on a low sandy beach just astern, and had the an-
chors parted, nothing could have saved the vessel.
Neither commander nor crew had been in bed for three
nights, and although little hope was entertained of sur-
viving the gale, and no boat could live in such a sea,
the officers and crew performed their several duties
with their accustomed coolness. Each man was or-
dered to put on his warmest clothing, and to take charge
of some useful instrument. The scene is best described
in the words of the gallant commander : —

"Each, therefore, brought his bag on deck, and
dressed himself; and in the fine athletic forms which
stood exposed before me, I did not see one muscle qui-

130

PROGRESS OF iRCTIO DISCOVERY.

ver, nor the slightest sign of alarm. Prayers were read,
and tliey then all sat down in groups, sheltered from the
wash of the sea by whatever they could find, and some
endeavored to obtain a little sleep. Never, perhaps
was witnessed a finer scene than on the deck of m^
little ship, when all hope of life had left us. Noble as
the character of the British sailor is always allowed to
be in cases of danger, yet I did not believe it to be pos-
sible that among forty-one persons not one repining
word should have been uttered. Each was at peace
with his neighbor and all the world ; and I am nrmly
persuaded that the resignation which was then shown
to the will of the Almighty, was the means of obtain-
ing His mercy. God was merciful to us, and the tide,
almost miraculously, fell no lower." The appropriate
name of the Bay of God's Mercy has been given to
this spot on the charts by Captain Lyon.

Proceeding onward up the Welcome, they encoun-
tered, about a fortnight later, another fearful storm.
On the 12th of September, when off the entrance of
"Wager Inlet, it blew so hard for two days, that on the
13th the ship was driven from her anchors, and carried
away by the fury of the gale, with every prospect of
being momentarily dashed to pieces against any hid-
den rock ; but the same good Providence which had
so recently befriended them, again stood their protec-
tor. On consulting with his officers, it was unani-
mously resolved, that in the crippled state of the ship,
without any anchor, and with her compasses worse
than useless, it would be madness to continue the voy-
age, and the ship's course was therefore shaped for
England.

I may observe, that the old Griper ia now laid up as
a hulk in Chichester Harbor, furnishing a residence
and depot for the coast guard station.

Parry's Third Voyage.

In the spring of 1824: the Admiralty determined to
give Capt. Parry another opportunity of carrying ort

^^ ■■'

parry's THUID VOYAGE.

131

the great problem which had so long been sought af-
ter, of a northwest passage to the Pacific, and so gen-
erally esteemed was this gallant commander that he
had but to hoist his pennant, when fearless of all dan-
ger, and in a noble spirit of emulation, his former as-
sociates rallied around him.

The same two ships were employed as before, bui
Parry now selected the Hecla for his pennant. The
staff of officers and men was as follows : —

Hedla.

Captain — W. E. Parry.

Lieutenants — J. L. Wynn, Joseph Sherer, and

Henry Foster.
Surgeon — Samuel Neill, M. D.
Purser — "W. H. Hooper.
Assistant Surgeon — VV". Rowland.
Midshipmen — J. Brunton, F. R. M. Crozier, 0.

Richards, and H. N. Head.
Greenland Pilots — J. Allison, master; and G.

Champion, mate.
49 Petty Officers, Seamen, and Marinea.
Total complement, 62.

Fury.

Commander — H. P. Hoppner.

Lieutenants — H. T. Austin and J. 0. Ross.

Surgeon — A. M'Laren.

Purser — J. Halse.

Assistant Surgeon — T. Bell.

Midshipmen — B. "Westropp, C. C. Waller, and E.
Bird.

Clerk — W. Mogg.

Greenland Pilots — G. Crawford, master ; T. Don-
aldson, mate.

48 Petty Officers, Seamen, and Marines.
Total complement, 60.

The William Harris, transport, was commissioned
to accompany the ships to the ice with provisions.

riifi

132

rKOORESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

Among tlie promotions made, it will be seen, were
Lieut. Hoppner to the rank of Commander, and second
in command of the expedition. Messrs. J. Sherer,
and J. C. Ross to be Lieutenants, and J. Halse to be
Purser. The attempt on this occasion was to be made
by Lancaster Sound through Barrow's Strait to Prince
Regent Inlet. The ships sailed on the 19th of May,
1824, and a month afterward fell in with the body cf
the ice in lat. 60}°. After transhipping the stores to
the two vessels, and sending home the transport, about
the middle of July they were close beset with the ice
in Baffin's Bay, and "from this time (says Parry) the
obstructions from the quantity, magnitude, and close-
ness of the ice, which were such as to keep our people
almost constantly employed in heaving, warping, or
sawing through it ; and yet with so little success that,
at the close of July, we had only penetrated seventy
miles to the westward." After encountering a severe
gale on the 1st of August, by which masses of overlay-
ing ice were driven one upon the other, the Hecla was
laid on her broadside by a strain, which Parry says
must inevitably have crushed a vessel of ordinary
strength ; they got clear of the chief obstructions by
the first week in September. During the whole of
August they had not one day sufficiently free from
rain, snow, or sleet, to be able to air the bedding of
the ship's company.

They enterea Lancaster Sound on the lOtli of Sep-
tember, and with the exception of a solitary berg or
two found it clear of ice. A few days after, however,
they fell in with the young ice, which increasing daily
in thickness, the ships became beset, and by the cur-
rent which set to the east at the rate of three miles an
hour, they were soon drifted back to the eastward of
Admiralty Inlet, and on the 23d thev found them-
selves again off "WoUaston Island, at the entrance of
Navy Board Inlet. By perseverance, however, and the
aid of a strong easterly breeze, they once more man-
aged to recover their lost ground, and on the 27tb
reached the entrance of Port Bowen on the eastern

TAliliY S TUIliD VOYAGE.

133

shore of Prince Regent Inlet, and here Parry resolved
upon wintering; this making the fourth winter this
enterprising commander had passed in these inhospi-
table seas.

The usual laborious process of cutting canals had to
be resorted to, in order to get the ships near to the
shore in secure and sheltered situations. Parry thus
describes the dreary monotonous character of an arctic
winter : —

"It is hard to conceive any one thinff more like
another than two winters passed in the higher latitudes
of the polar regions, except when variety happens to
be afforded by intercourse with seme other branch' of
the whole family of man. Winter after winter, nature
here assumes an aspect so much alike, that cursory ob-
servation can scarcely detect a sino-le feature of variety.
The winter of more temperate climates, and even in
some of no slight severity, is occasionally diversified
l)y a thaw, which at once gives variety and compara-
tive cheerfulness to the pros^Dect. But here, when once
the earth is covered, all is dreary monotonous white-
ness, not merely for days or weeks, but for more than
half a year together. Whichever way the eye is turn-
ed, it meets a picture calculated to impress upon the
mind an idea of inanimate stillness, of that motionless
torpor with which our feelings have nothing congenial ;
of any thing, in short, but life. In the very silence
there is a deadness with which a human spectator ap-
pears out of keeping. The presence of man seems an
intrusion on the dreary solitude of this wintry desert,
which even its native animals have for awhile forsaken."

During this year Parry tells us the thermometer re-
mained below zero 131 days, and did not rise above
that point till the 11th of April. The sun, which had
been absent from their view 121 days, again blessed
the crews with his rays on the 22d of February. Du-
ring this long imprisonment, schools, scientific observa-
tions, walking parties, &c., were resorted to, but " our
former amusements," says Parry, " being almost worn
threadbare, it required some ingenuity to devise any

I'KOGUKSS OF ARCTIC DISCOVlCliY.

plan that should possess the charm of novelty to re-
commend it." A happy idea was, however, hit upon hy
Commander Iloppncr, at whose suggestion a monthly
Ocfl masque was heUl, to the great diversion of both
oUicers and men, to the number of 120. The populai
commander entered gayly into their recreations, and
thus speaks of these polar masquerades : —

'• It is impossible that any idea could have proved
more happy, or more exactly suited to our situatit)ii.
Admirably dressed characters of various descriptions
readilv took their parts, and many of these were suj)-
ported with a degree of spirit and genuine good liumor
M'hich would not have disgraced a more renned assem-
bly ; while the latter might not have been disgraced
by copying the good order, decorum, and inoftensivo
cheerfulness which our humble masquerades presented.
It does especial credit to the dispositions and good
sense of our men, that though all the officers entered
fully into the spirit of these amusements, M'hich took
place once a month alternately on board of each ship,
no instance occurred of any thing that could interfei-e
with the regular discipline, or at all weaken the respect
of the men toward their superiors. Ours were mas
querades without licentiousness — carnivals without
excess."

Exploring parties were sent out in several directions.
Commander Iloppner and his party went inland, and
after a fortnight's fatiguing journey over a mountain-
ous, barren, and desolate country, where precipitous ra-
vines 600 feet deep obstructed their passage, traveled
a degree and three-quarters — to the latitude of 73° 19',
but saw no appearance of sea from thence.

Lieutenant Sherer, with four men, proceeded to the
southward, and made a careful survey of the coast as
far as 72 i^, but had not provisions sufficient to go
round Cape Kater, the southernmost point observed in
their former voyage.

Lieutenant J. C. Ross, with a similar party, traveled
to the northward, along the coast of the Inlet, and from
the hills about Cape York, observed that the sea was

I *■(.,

I'AKRYS THIRD VOYAGE.

135

perfectly open and free from ice at the distance of
twenty-two miles from the ships.

A fter an imprisonment of about ten months, by great
exertions the ships were got clear from the ice, and on
the 20th of Jnly, 1825, upon the separation of the tloo
across the harbor, towed out to sea. Parry then made
for the western shore of the Inlet, being desirous of ex-
amining the coast of North Somerset for any channel
that might occur, a probability which later discoveries
in that quarter have proved to be without foundation.
On the 28th, when well in with the western slioro, tiie
Ilecla, in spite of every exertion, was beset by floating
ice, and after breaking two large ice anchors in en-
deavoring to heave in shore, was obliged to give up the
eifort and drift with the ice until the 30th. On the
following day, a heavy gale came on, in which the
Hecla carried away three hawsers, while the Fury was
driven on shore, but was hove off at high water. Both
ships were now drifted by the body of the ice down the
Inlet, and took the ground, the Fury being so nipped
and strained that she leaked a great deal, and four
pumps kept constantly at work did not keep her clear
of water. They were floated oft' at high water, but,
late on the 2nd of August, the huge masses of ice once
more forced the Fury on shore, and the Ilecla narrowly
escaped. On examining her and getting her off", it
was found that she must be hove down and repaired ;
a basin was therefore formed for her reception and
completed by the 16th, a mile further to the southward,
within three icebergs grounded, where there were three
or four fathoms of water. Into this basin she was
taken on the 18th, and her stores and provisions being
removed, she was hove down, but a gale of wind com-
ing on and destroying the masses of ice which shel-
tered her, it became necessary to re-embark the stores,
&c., and once more put to sea ; but the unfortunate
vessel had hardly got out of her harbor before, on the
21st, she was again driven on shore. After a careful
survey and examination, it was found necessary to
abandon her ; Parry's opinion being thus expressed —

13G

I'JtOGKIiSS OF AliCriC DISCOVERY.

" Every endeavor of ours to get her off, or if got off, to
iloat her to any known pUice of safety, would be at
once utterly hopeless in itself, and productive of ex-
treme risk to our remaining ship."

The loss of this ship, and the crowded state of the
remaining vessel, made it impossible to think of con-
tinuing the voyage for the pur^Doses of discovery.

" The incessant labor, the constant state of anxiety,
and the frequent and imminent danger into which the
surviving s'hip was thrown, in the attempts to save her
comrade, "which were continued for twenty-five days,
destroyed every reasonable expectation hitherto cher-
ished of the ultimate accomplishment of this object."

Taking advantage of a northerly wind, on the 27th
the Hecla stretched across the Inlet for the eastern
coast, meeting with little obstruction from the ice, and
anchored in Neill's Harbor, a short distance to the
southward of their winter quarters. Port Bowen, where
the ship was got ready for crossing the Atlantic.

The llecla put to sea on the 31st of August, and en-
tering Barrow's Strait on the Ist of September, found
it perfectly clear of ice. In Lancaster Sound, a very
large number of bergs were seen ; but they found an
open sea in Bafiin's Bay, till, on the 7th of September,
when in latitude 75° 30', they came to the margin of
''he ice, and soon entered a clear channel on its eastern
side. From thirty to forty large icebergs, not less than
200 feet in height, were sighted.

On the 12 th of October, Captain Parry landed at
Peterhead, and the Hecla arrived at Sheerness on the
20th. But one man died during this voyage — John
Page, a seaman of the Fury — who died of scurvy, in
Weill's Harbor, on the 29th of August.

This voyage cannot but be considered the most unsuc-
cessful of the three made by Parry, whether as regards
the information gleaned on the subject of a northwest
passage, or the extension of our store of geographical
or scientific knowledge. The shores of this inlet were
more naked, barren, and desolate than even Melville
Island. With the exception of some hundreds of white

whales
the Inl
were S(

"W(
on whi
gether
now an|

He
object
cial nai

" 1 fe
iulvisul
or othc;

dents t
must b
HtHTices
or luimi
1)0 an e
practice
ral favo
1)ined fc
less, tha

" I ar
iiorthwe
BUHimer
of very
a single
meiit.
of final
may be
comfort,

Note
passed
wise an<

TJnda
encount
of ardo]

frankun's second expedition.

137

wLales, seen sportinnj about the southernmost part of
the Inlet that was visited, few other species of animals
were seen.

"We have scarcely," says Parry, "ever visited a coast
on which so little of animal life occurs. For days to-
gether only one or two seals, a single sea-horse, and
now and then a flock of ducks were seen."

He still clings to the accomplishment of the great
object of a northwest passage. At page 184 of his offi-
cial narrative, he says: —

" I feel confident that the undertaking, if it be deemed
lulvisable at any future time to j^ursue it, will one day
fn\ other be accomplished ; for — setting aside the acci-
dents to which, from their very nature, such attempts
must be liable, as well as other unfavorable circum-
Htnijces which human foresight can never guard against,
or liuman power control — I cannot but believe it to
1)0 an enterprise well within the reasonable limits of
l)racticability. It may be tried often and fail, for seve-
rnl favorable and fortunate circumstances must be com-
1)iiied for its accomplishment ; but I believe, neverthe-
less, that it will ultimately be accomplished."

" I am much mistaken, indeed," he adds, "if the
northwest passage ever becomes the business of a single
Huuimcr ; nay, I believe that nothing but a concurrence
of very favorable circumstances is likely ever to make
a single winter in the ice sufficient for its accomplish-
ment. But there is no argument against the possibility
of final success ; for we know that a winter in the ice
may be passed not only in safety, but in health and
comfort."

Not 07ie winter alone, but two and three have been
passed with health and safety in these seas, under a
wise and careful commander.

Franklin's Second Expedition, 1825-26.

Undaunted by tlie hardships and sufferings he had
encountered in his previous travels with a noble spirit
of ardor and enthusiasm, Captain Franklin determmcd

138

TKOGIUSeS OF AliCniC DISCOVERY.

«*

to prosecuto tho chain of his former discoveries from
the Coppermine river to the most western point of tho
Arctic regions. A sea expedition, under the command
of Captam Beechev was at the same time sent round
Cape Horn to Behring's Straits, to co-operate with Parry
and Franklin, so as to furnish provisions to the former,
and a conveyance home to the latter.

Captain 1 ranklin's offer was therefore accepted by
the government, and leaving Liverpool in February,
1825, he arrived at New York about the middle of
March. The officers under his orders were his old and
tried companions and fellow sufferers in the former jour-
ney — Dr. Richardson and Lieutenant Back, with Mr.
E. N. Kendal, a mate in the navy, who had been out in
the Griper with Capt. Lyon, and Mr. T. Drummond, a
naturalist. Four boats, specially prepared for the pur-
poses of the expedition, were sent out by the Hudson's
Bay Company's ship.

In July, 1825, the party arrived at Fort Chipewyan.
It is unnecessary to go over the ground and follow them
in their northern journey; suffice it to say, they reached
Great Bear Lake in safety, and erected a winter dwell-
ing on its western shore, to which the name of Fort
Franklin was given. To Back and Mr. Dease, an offi-
cer in the Hudson's Bay Company's service, were in-
trusted the arrangements for their winter quarters.

From here a small party cet out with Franldin down
the Mackenzie to examine the state of the Polar Sea.
On the 6th of September they got back to their com-
panions, and prepared to pass the long winter of seven
or eight months.

On the 28th of June, 1826, the season being suffi-
ciently advanced, and all their preparations completed,
the whole party got away in four boats to descend the
Mackenzie to the Polar Sea. "Where the river branches
off into several channels, the party separated on the 3d
of July, Captain Franklin and Lieutenant Back, with
two boats and fourteen men, having with them the
faithful Esquimaux interpreter, Augustus, who had
been with them on the former expedition, proceeded to

FltANKLIiN B SECOND EXrilDITlUN.

139

tho westward, while Dr. Richardson and Mr. Kendal
in the other two boats, having ten men under their
command, set out in an easterly direction, to search
the CoDpermiue River.

Franlvlin arrived at tho month of tho Mackenzie on
tho 7th of July, where he cncmmtcrcd a lar«^e tril)e of
lierco Esquimaux, wlio pillaged his boats, and it w;w
ou\y by great caution, prndence and forbearance, that
the whole party were not massacred. After getting the
boats afloat, and clear of these unpleasant visitois,
Franklin pursued his survey, a most tedious and di(H-
cult one, for more than a month ; he was only able to
reach a point in latitude 70° 24' N., longitude 149°'37'
W., to which Back's name was given ; and here pru-
dence obliged him to return, although, strangely enough,
a boat from the Blossom was waiting not 160 miles west
of his position to meet with him. The extent of coast
surveyed was 374 miles. The return journey to Fort
Franklin was safely accomplished, and they arrived at
their house on the 31st of September, when they found
Richardson and Kendal had returned on the first of
the month, having accomplished a voyage of about 500
miles, or 902 by the coast line, between the 4th of July
and the 8th of August. They had pushed forward be-
yond the strait named after their boats, the Dolphin and
Union.

In aseonding the Coppermine, they had to abandon
lljcir boats and carry their provisions and baggage.

Having passed another winter at Fort Franklin, as
soon as the season broke up the Canadians were dis-
missed, Jind the party returned to England.

The cold experienced in the last winter was intense,
the thermometer standing at one time at 58° below zero^
but having now plenty of food, a weather-tight dwell-
ing, and good liealth, they passed it cheei-fully. Dr.
Richardson gave a course of lectures on practical geol-
ogy, and Mr. Drummond funiished information on natu-
ral history. During the winter, in a solitary hut on tho
Rocky mountains, lie managed to collect 200 specimens
of birds, animals, &c., and more than 1500 of plants.

-fr

- 1'

140

PKOGUKSS OF ARCTIC DISCOVEUV.

When Captain Fniiiklin Iclt England to proceed on
this exj)editioii lie liad to under»^o u bcvcro Btrugglo
])etwcen his feelin<^8 of ntrection and a sense of duty.
His wife (ho has been married twice) was then lying at
the point of death, and indeed died the day after ho
loft England. But with heroic fortitude she urged liis
departure at the very day appointed, entreating hini,
as ho valued her peace and his own glory, not to delay
a moment on her account. His feelings, therefore, nuvy
be inferred, but not described, when lie had to elevate
on Garry Island a silk flag, which she had made and
iven him as a parting gift, with the instruction that
e was only to hoist it on reaching the Polar Sea.

Beeciiey's Voyage. — 1820-28.

«•

H. M. SLOOP Blossom, 26, Captain F. "W". Beechey,
sailed from Spithead on the 19th of May, 1825, and
her instructions directed her, after surveying some of
the islands in the Pacific, to be in Behring's Straits by
the summer or autumn of 1826, and contingently in that
of 1827.

It is foreign to my purpose here to allude to those
parts of her voyage anterior to her arrival in the Straits.

On the 2Sth of June the Blossom came to an anchor
off the town of Petropolowski, where she fell in with
the Russian ship of war Modesto, under the commano
of Baron Wrangel, so well known for his enterprise i&
the hazardous expedition by sledges over the ice to th^
northward of Cape Shelatskoi, or Errinos.

Captain Beechey here found dispatches informin]["
him of the return of Parry's expedition. Being bese.*>
by currents and other difliculties, it was not till the 5tb
of July that the Blossom got clear of the harbor, and
made the best of her way to Kotzebue Sound, reachinn
the appointed rendezvous at Chamiso Island on the 2oth.
After landing and burying a barrel of flour ujDon Puffin
Bock, the most unfrequented spot about the island, tho
Blossom occupied the time in surveying and examining

71° 23

BEBCIIEY B VOYAGE.

tlic ncifflihorin^ coasts to the northeast. On the 30th
Bhe took licr (Ji'parture from the islund, erecting posts
or hind-inarkH, tiiid burying dinpatohcs at Capo Ivriiseii-
Htern, near a cape which ho named alter Franklin, near
Icy Cape.

The fillip returned to the rendezvous on the evening
of the 28th of August. The barrel of flour had been
dug up and approj)riated by the natives.

()n tlie first visit of one of these parties, they con-
structed a chart of the coast upon the sand, of which,
however, Captain Beechey at first took very little notice.
" They, however, renewed their labor, and performed
their work upon the sandy beach in a very ingenious and
intelligible manner. The coast line was first marked
out with a stick, and the distances regulated by the
day's journey. The hills and ranges of mountains were
next shown by elevations of sand or stone, and the
islands represented by heaps of pebbles, their propor-
tions being duly attended to. As the work proceeded,
some of the bystanders occasionally suggested altera-
tions, and Captain Beechey moved one of the Diomedo
Islands, whicli was misplaced. This was at first ob-
jected to by the hydrographer, but one of the party
recollecting that the islands were seen in one from Capo
Prince of Wales, confirmed its new position and made
the mistake quite evident to the others, who were much
surprised that Captain Beechey should have any knowl-
edge of the subject. When the mountains and islands
were erected, the villages and fishing-stations were
marked by a number of sticks placed upright, in imita-
tion of those which are put up on the coast wherever
these people fix their abode. In time, a complete hy-
drographical plan was drawn from Cape Derby to Capo
Krusenstem.

This ingenuity and accuracy of description on the
part of the Esquimaux is worthy of particular remark,
and has been verified by almost all the Arctic explorers.

The barge which had been dispatched to the east-
ward, under charge of Mr. Elson, reached to latitude
n° 23' 31" N., and longitude 156° 21' 31" W., where

111

142

PROGRESS OF ARCTTIC DISCOVERT.

she was stopped by the ice which was attached to the
shore. The farthest tongue of land they reached was
named Point Barrow, and is about 126 miles northeast
of Icy Cape, being only about 160 or 160 miles from
Franklin's discoveries west of the Mackenzie river.

The wind suddenly 'changing to southwest, the com-
pact body of ice began to drift with the current to the
northeast at the rate of three and a half miles an hour,
and Mr. Elson, finding it difficult to avoid large floating
masses of ice, was obliged to come to an anchor to pre-
vent being driven back. " It was not long before he was
so closely beset in the ice, that no clear water could
be seen in any direction from the hills, and the ice
continuing to press against the shore, his vessel was
driven upon the beach, and there left upon her broad-
side in a most helpless condition ; and to add to his
cheerless prospect, the disposition of the natives, whom
he found to increase in numbers as he advanced to the
northward, was of a very doubtfdl character. At Point
Barrow, where they were very numerous, their over-
bearing behavior, and the thefts they openly prac-
ticed, left no doubt of what would be the fate of his
little crew, in the event of their falling into their
power. They were in this dilemma several days, dur-
mg which every endeavor was made to extricate the
vessel but without effect, and Mr. Elson contemplated
sinking her secretly in a lake that was near, to prevent
her falling into the hands of the Esquimaux, and then
making his wav along the coast in a baidar, which he
had no doubt he should be able to purchase from the
natives. At length, however, a change of wind loos-
ened tlie ice, and after considerable labor and trial, in
which the personal strength of the officers was united
to that of the seamen, Mr. Elson, with his shipmates,
fortunately succeeded in effecting their escape.

Captain Beechey was very anxious to remain in
Kotzebue Sound until the end of October, tbe period
named in his instructions, but the rapid approach of
winter, the danger of being locked up, having only
fixr^ «r««i,«j provisions left, and the nearest point at

five weeks'

.■7

beecjhey's voyage.

143

which he could replenish being some 2000 miles dis-
tant, induced his officers to concur with him in the
necessity of leaving at once. A barrel of flour and
other articles were buried on the sandy point of Cha-
miso, for Franklin, which it was hoped would escape
the prying eyes of the natives.

After a cruise to California, the Sandwich Islands,
Loochoo, the Bonin Islands, &c., the Blossom returned
to Chamiso Island on the 6th of July, 1827. They
found the flour and dispatches they had left the pre-
vious year unmolested. Lieut. Belcher was dispatched
in the barge to explore the coast to the north ward, -and
the sliip followed her as soon as the wind permitted.
On the 9th of .September, when standing in for the
northern shore of Kotzebue Sound, the ship drifting
witli the current took the ground on a sand-bank near
Ilotham Inlet, but the wind moderating, as the tide
rose she went ofl' the shoal apparently without injury.

After this narrow escape from shipwreck they beat
up to Chamiso Island, which they reached on the 10th
of September. Not finding the barge returned as ex-
pected, the coast was scanned, and a signal of distress
found flying on the southwest point of Choris Pen-
insula, and two men waving a white cloth to attract
notice. On landing, it was found that this party were
the crew of the barge, which had been wrecked in Kot-
zebue Sound, and three of the men were also lost.

On the 29th a collision took place with the natives,
which resulted in three of the seamen and four of the
marines being wounded by arrows, and one of the na-
tives killed by the return fire.

After leaving advices for Franklin, as before, the
Blossom finally left Chamiso on the 6th of October.
In a haze and strong wind she ran between the land
and a shoal, and a passage had to be forced through
breakers at the imminent danger of the ship's striking.
The Blossom then made the best of her way home,
reaching England in the first week of October, 1828.

i,:i;:i

PE0GEES8 OP AECfnO DISCOYERY.

* Parry's Fourth, or Polar Yoyage, 1827.

In 1826, Capt. Pany, who had only returned from
his last voyage in the close of the preceding year, was
much struck by the suggestions of Mr. Scoresby, in a
paper read before the Wernerian Society, in which he
sketched out a plan for reaching the highest latitudes
of the Polar Sea, north of Spitzbergen, by means of
sledge boats drawn over the smooth fields of ice which
were known to prevail in those regions. Col. Beau-
foy, F. 11. S., had also suggested this idea some years
previously. Comparing these with a similar plan orig-
inally proposed by Captain Franklin, and which was
placed in his hands by Mr. Barrow, the Secretary of
the Admiralty, Capt. Parry laid his modified views of
the feasibility of the project, and his willingness to un-
dertake it, before Lord Melville, the First Lord of the
Admiralty, who, after consulting with the President
and Council of the Eoyal Society, was pleased to sanc-
tion the attempt ; accordingly, his old ship, the Hecla,
was fitted out for tlie voyage to Spitzbergen, the fol-
lowing oflScers, (all of whom had been with Parry be-
fore,) and crew being appointed to her : —

Hecla,

Captain — "W. E. Parry.

Lieutenants — J. C. Ross, Henry Foster, E. J. Bird,

F. R. M. Crozier.
Purser — James Halse.
Surgeon — C.J.Beverley.

On the 4th of April, 1827, the outfit and prepara-
tions being completed, the Hecla left the Nore for the
coast of Norway, touching at Hammerfest, to embark
eight reindeer, and some moss {CenomyGe rangiferiha)
sufficient for their support, tlie consumption being
about 4 lbs. ])er day, but they can go without food for
several days. A treineiidous gale of wind, experienced
off Haklnyt's TTeadland, and the quantity of ice with
which tlio phi)) was in coTiscMpicnce be^et, detained the
voyagers for i. early a month, but on the ISth of June,

jl^,

parky's fourth voyage.

145

a southerly wind dis|>ersing the ice, they dropped
anchor in a cove, on the northern coast of Spitzbergcii,
which appeared to offer a secure haven, and to which
the name of the ship was given. On the 20th, the
boats, which had been especially prepared in England
for this kind of journey, were got out and made ready,
and they left the ship on the 22d of June. A descrip-
tion of these boats may not here be out of jjlace.

They were twenty feet long and seven broad, flat
floored, like ferry boats, strengthened and made elas-
tic by sheets of felt between the planking, covered
with water-proof canvass. A runner attached to each
side of the keel, adapted them for easy draught on the
ice after the manner of a sledge. They were also fit-
ted with wheels, to be used if deemed expedient and
useful. Two officers and twelve men were attached
to each boat, and they were named the Enterprise and
Endeavor. The weight of each boat, including pro-
visions and every requisite, was about 3780 lbs. Lieuts.
Crozier and Foster were left on board, and Capt. Parry
took with him in his boat Mr. Beverley, Surgeon, while
Lieut, (now Capt. Sir James) Eoss, and Lieut, (now
Commander) Bird, had charge of the other.

The reindeer and the wheels were given up as use-
less, owing to the rough nature of the ice. Provisions
for seventy-one days were taken — the daily allowance
per man on the journey being 10 ozs. biscuit, 9 ozs.
pemmican, 1 oz. sweetened cocoa powder (being
enough to make a pint,) and one gill of rum ; but
scanty provision in such a climate, for men employed
on severe labor ; three ounces of tobacco were also
served out to each per week.

As fuel was too bulky to transport, spirits of wino
were consumed, which answered all the purposes re-
quired, a pint twice a day being found sufficient to
warm each vessel, when applied to an iron boiler by a
shallow lamp with seven wicks. After floating the
boats for about eighty miles, they came to an unpleas-
ant mixed surface of ice and water, where their toilsome
journey commenced, the boats having to be laden and

Lis

I-Tf

!>:-

146

rEOQEESS OF AEOTIO DISCOVEEY.

unladen several times according as they came to floes
of ice or lanes of water, and they were drifted to the
southward by the ice at the rate of four or five miles a
day. Parry found it more advantageous to travel by
night, the snow being then harder, and the inconven-
ience of snow blindness being avoided, while the party
enjoyed greater warmth during the period of rest, and
had better opportunities of drying their clothes by the
sun.

I cannot .do better than quote Parry's graphic de-
scription of this novel course of proceeding : " Travel-
ing by night, and sleeping by day, so completely in-
verted the natural order of things that it was difficult
to persuade ourselves of the reality. Even the officers
and myself, who were all furnished with pocket chro-
nometers, could not always bear in mind at what part
of the twenty-hours we had arrived ; and there were
several of the men who declared, and I believe truly,
that they never knew night fi*om day during the whole
excursion.

" When we rose in the evening, we commenced our
day by prayers, after which we took off our fur sleep-
ing-dresses and put on clothes for traveling ; the former
being made of camlet lined with raccoon skin, and the
latter of strong blue cloth. "We made a point of al-
ways putting on the same stockings ana boots for
traveling in, whether they had been dried during the
day or not, and I believe it was only in five or six in-
stances at the most that they were not either still wet
or hard frozen. This indeed was of no consequence,
beyond the discomfort of first putting them on in this
state, as they were sure to be thoroughly wet in a
quarter of an hour after commencing our journey ;
while, on the other hand, it was of vital importance
to keep dry things for sleeping in. Being ' rigged '
for traveling, we breakfasted upon warm cocoa and
biscuit, and after stowing the things in the boats, and
on the sledges, so as to secure them as much as pos-
sible from wet, we set off on our day's journey, and
usually traveled four, five, or even six hours, accord-
ing to circumstances."

PAERY'S FOURTH VOYAGE.

147

In five days, notwithstanding their perseverance
and continued journeys, they found, by observation at
noon, on the 30th, that they had only made eight miles
of direct northing.

At Walden Island, one of the Seven Islands, and
Little Table Island, reserve supplies of provisions were
deposited to fall back upon in case of necessity.

In halting early in the morning for the purposes of
rest, the boats were hauled up on the largest piece of
ice that offered the least chance of brealang through,
or of coming in contact with other masses, the snow or
wet was cleaned out and the sails rigged as awnings.
*' Every man then immediately put on dry stockings
and fur boots, after which we set about the necessary
repairs of boats, sledges, or clothes, and after serving
the provisions for the succeeding day, we went to sup-
per. Most of the officers and men then smoked their
pipes, which served to dry the boats and awnings very
much, and usually raised the temperature of our lodg-
ings 10° or 16°. This part of the twenty-four hours
was often a time, and the only one, of real enjoyment
to us ; the men told their stories, and fought all their
battles o'er again, and the labors of the day, unsuccess-
ful as they too often were, were forgotten. A regular
wateh was set during our resting time, to look out for
bears, or for the ice oreaking up round us, as well as
to attend to the drying of the clothes, each man alter-
nately taking this duty for one hour. We then con-
cluded our day with prayers, and having put on our
fur dresses, lay down to sleep with a degree of comfort
which perhaps few persons would imagine possible un-
d-^r such circumstances, our chief inconvenience being,
that we were somewhat pinched for room, and there-
fore obliged to stow rather closer than was quite agree-
able."

This close stowage may be imagined when it is re-
membered that thirteen persons had to sleep in a boat
seven feet broad. After sleeping about seven hours,
they were roused from their slumbers by the sound of
a bugle from the cook and watchman, which announced

•;

1^8

ritOGKESS OF AUCnC DISCOVEKY.

that their cocoa was smoking hot, and invited them to
breakfast.

Their progress was of the most tedious and toilsome
character, heavy showers of rain rendering the ice on
many occasions a mass of " slush ;" on others there was
from six to eighteen inches of snow lying on the sur-
face. Frequently the crew had to proceed on their
hands and knees to secure a footing, and on one occa-
sion they made such a snail-like progress that in two
hours they only accomplished 150 yards. On the 12th
of Jul^, they had reached the latitude of 82° 14' 28".
After live hours' unceasing labor on the 14th, the pro-
gress was but a mile and a half due north, though
from three to four miles had been traversed, and ten at
least walked, having made three journeys a great part
of the way ; launched and hauled up the boats four
times, and dragged them over twenty-five separate
pieces of ice. On the 18th, after eleven hours of ac-
tual labor, requiring for the most part the exertion of
the whole strength of the party, they had traveled over
a space not exceeding four iniles, of which only two
were made good.

But on halting on the morning of the 20th, having
by his reckoning accomplished six and a half miles in
a N. N. W. direction, the distance traversed being ten
miles and a half, Parry found to his mortification from
observation at noon, that they were not five miles to
the northward of their place at noon on the 17th,
although they had certainly traveled twelve miles in
that direction since then.

On the 21st, a floe of ice on which they had lodged
the boats and sledges, broke with their weight, and all
went through with several of the crew, who, with the
sledges were providentially saved.

On the 23d, the farthest northerly point was reached,
which was about 82° 45'.

At noon on the 26th, the weather being clear, the
meridian altitude of the sun was obtained, " by which,"
says Parry, " we found ourselves in latitude 82° 40' 23",
80 that since our last observation (at midnight on the

PARKY*8 FOURTH VOYAGE.

149

\ iJ(l,) we had lost l)y drift no less than thirteen and a
half miles, for we were now more than three miles to the
southward of that observation, though we had certainly-
traveled between ten and eleven, due north in this
interval ! Again, we were but one mile to the north
of our place at noon on the 21st, though wo had esti-
n!ated our distance ma'^'" ^ood at twenty-three miles."
After encountering eve.;, species of fetigue and dis-
heartening obstacles, in peril of their lives almost every
hour, Parry now became convinced that it was hope-
Iws to pursue the journey any further, and he could
not even reach the eighty-third parallel ; for after thir-
ty-five days of continuous and most fatiguing drudgery,
Wkth half their resources exipended, and the middle of
the season arrived, he found that the distance gained
in their laborious traveling was lost by the drift and
eeri of the ice with the southerly current, during the
p^riod of rest. After planting their ensigns and pen-
nants on the 26th, and making it a day of rest, on the
21^ eh, the return to the southward was commenced.
Nt 'thing particular occurred. Lieutenant Ross man-
ag 3d to bring down with his gun a fat she bear, which
caine to have a look at the boats, and after gormandiz-
in*f on its flesh, an excess which may be excused consid-
eriig it was the first fi'esh meat they had tasted for
ma ly a day, some symptoms of indigestion manifested
the TQselves among the party.

( »n the outward journey very little of animal life
wai seen. A passing gull, a soutary rotge, two seals,
and a couple of flies, were all that their eager eyes
covit I detect. But on their return, these became more
nun. erous. On the 8th of August, seven or eight nar-
wha 6 were seen, and not less than 200 rotges, a flock
of tl ese little birds occurring in ievery hole of water.
On I he 11th, in latitude 81° 80', the sea was found
crowded with shrimps and other sea insects, on which
numerous birds were feeding. On this day they took
their last meal on the ice, being fifty miles distant from
Table Island, having accomplished in fifteen days what
had t^ken them thirty-three to effect on their outward

•i

- 1

150

PBOaBESS OF AAOnO DISOOTEKY.

journey. On the 12th, they arrived at this island. The
bears had walked off with the relay of bread which
had been deposited there. To an. inlet lying off Table
Island, and the mosw northern known land upon the
globe, Parry gave the name of Ross, for " no individ-
ual," he observes, " could have exerted himself more
strenuously to rob it of this distinction."

Putting to sea again, a storm obliged the boats to
bear up for Walden Island. " Every thing belomging fb
us (says Captain Parry) was now completely drenched
by the spray and snow ; we had been fifty-six hours
without rest, and forty-eight at work in the boats, so
that by' the time they were unloaded we had barely
strength left to haul them up on the rocks. However,
by dint of great exertion, we managed to get the boats
above the surf ; after which a hot supper, a blazing
fire of drift wood, and a tew hours quiet rest, restored
us."

They finally reached the ship on the 2lBt of August,
after sixty -one days' absence.

^^ The distance traversed during this excursion was
669 geographical miles ; but allowing for the times we
had to return for our baggage, during the greater part
of the journey over the ice, we estimated our actual
traveling at 978 geographical, or 1127 statute miles.
Considering our constant exposure to wet, cold, and
fatigue, our stockings having generally been drenched
in snow-water for twelve hours out of every twenty-
four, I had great reason to be thankful for the excellent
health in which, upon the whole, we reached the ship.
There is little doubt that we had all become in a certain
degree gradually weaker for some time past ; but only
three men of our party now required medical care —
two of them with badly swelled legs and general de
Klity, and the other from a bruise, but even these three
returned to their duty in a short time."

In a letter from Sir W. E. Parry to Sir John Barrow,
dated November 26, 1846, he thus suggests some im-
provements on his old plan of proceadmgs : —

^' It is evident (he says) that the caiues of failure in

PARUY 8 FoUinn VOYAGE.

161

our former attempt, iii the year 1827, were principally
two : first, and chiefly, the broken, rugged, and soft
state of the ice over wliich we traveled ; and secondly,
the drifting of the whole body of ice in a southerly
direction.

" My amended plan is, to go out with a single ship
to Spitzbergen, just as we did in the Hecla, but not so
early in the season ; the object for that year being
merely to find secure winter quarters as far north as
possible. For this puipose it would only be u< ressary
to reach Hakluyt's Headland by the end o June,
which would anord ample leisure for exaniiiiiH2: t^ o
more northern lands, especially about the Seven Ishuuls,
where, in all probability, a secure nook might be Jbnnd
for the ship, and a starting point for the proposed ex-
pedition, some forty or mty miles in advance of tho
point where the Hecla was before laid up. The w^inter
might be usefully employed in various preparations for
the journey, as well as in magnetic, astronomical, and
meteorological observations, of high interest in that
latitude, i propose that the expedition should leave
the ship in the course of the month of April, when tho
ice would present one hard and unbroken surface, over
which, as I confidently believe, it would not be difficult
to make good thirty miles per day, without any expo-
sure to wet, and probably without snow blindness. At
this season, too, the ice would probably be stationary,
and thus the two gi'eat difficulties which we formerly
had to encounter would be entirely obviated. It might
form a part of the plan to push out supplies previously,
to the distance of 100 miles, to be taken up on the
way, so as to commence the journey comparatively
light ; and as the intention would be to complete the
enterprise in the course of the month of May, before
any disruption of the ice, or any material softening of
the surface had taken place, similar supplies might be
sent out to the same distance, to meet the party on
their return."

The late Sir John Barrow, in his last work, com-
menting on this, says, " With all deference to so dis-

162

PliCOKEeS OF AHOTIO DISCOVERY.

tinguished a sea officer, in possesRion of bo ranch expe-
rience as Sir Edward Parry, there are others who
express dislike of such a plan ; and it is not improba-
ble that many will be disposed to come to the conclu-
sion, that so long as the Greenland Seas are hampered
with ice, so long as floes, and hummocks, and heavy-
masses, continue to be formed, so long as a determined
southerly current prevails, so long will any attempt to
carry out the plan m question, in nke manner fail. No
laborious drudgery will ever be able to conquer the
opposing progress of the current and the ice. Besides,
it can hardly be doubted, this gallant officer vlU admit,
on further consideration, that this unusual kind of dis-
gusting and unseamanlike labor, is not precisely such
as would be relished by the men ; and, it may be said,
is not exactly fitted for a British man-oi-war's-man ;
moreover, that it required his own all-powerful example
to make it even tolerable." Sir Jonn therefore sug-
gested a somewhat different plan. He recommended
that two small ships should be sent in the early spring
along the western coast of Spitzbergen, where usually
no impediment exists, as far up as 80°. They should
take every opportunity of proceeding directly to the
north, where, in about 82°, Parry has told us the large
floes had disappeared, and the sea was found to be
loaded only with loose, disconnected, small masses of
ice, through which ships would find no difficulty in
Bailing, though totally unfit for boats dragging ; and as
this loose ice was drifting to the southward, he further
eays, that before the middle of August a ship might
have sailed up to the latitude of 82°, almost without
touching a piece of ice. It is not then unreasonable to
expect that beyond that parallel, even as far as the
pole itself, the sea would be fi*ee of ice, during the six
eummer months of perpetual sun, through each of the
twenty-four hours ; which, with the aid of the current,
would, in all probability, destroy and dissipate the
polar ice.

The distance from Hakluyt's Headland to the polo
is 600 geographical miles. Granting the ships to inako

age

J'.'l-.^c^^-^wH

i'aery'b fourth voyage.

153

OT1I5 twenty miles in twenty-four hours, (on the euppo-
eition of mueli sailing ice to go through,) even in that
case it would require but a month to enable the ex-
plorer to put his foot on the pivot or point of the axis
on which the globe of the earth turns, remain there a
month, if necessary, to obtain the sought-for informa-
tion, and then, with a southerly current, a fortnight,
probably less, would bring him back to Spitzbergen. *

In a notice in the Quarterly Review of this, one of
the most singular and perilous journeys of its kind
over undertaken, except perhaps that of Baron Wran-
gell upon a similar enterprise to the northward of Behr-
ing's Straits, it is observed, — "Let any one conceive
for a moment the situation of two open bouts, laden
with seventy days' provisions and clotning for twenty-
eight men, in the midst of a sea covered nearly with
detached masses and floes of ice, over which these
boats were to be dragged, sometimes up one side of a
rugged mass, and down the other, sometimes across the
lanes of water that separate them, frequently over a
surface covered with deep snow, or through pools of
water. Let him bear in mind, that the men had little
or no chance of any other supply of provisions than
that which they carried with tnem, calculated as just
sufficient to sustain life, and consider what their situa-
tion would have been in the event, by no means an
improbable one, of losing any part of their scanty
stock. Let any one try to imagine to himself a situa-
tion of this kind, and he will still have but a faint idea
of the exertions which the men under Captain Parry
liad to make, and the sufferings and privations they
had to undergo."

Captain Parry having thus completed his fifth voy-
age into the arctic regions, in four of which he com-
manded, and was second in the other, it may here be
desirable to give a recapitulation of his services.

In 1818 he was appointed Lieutenant, commanding
the Alexander, hired ship, as second officer with his
uncle, Commander John Koss. In 1819, still as Lieu-
* Barrow's Voyages of Discovery, p. 316. **

154

PROORESS OF ARCllC DI8C0VKUY.

tenant, he was appointed to command the Ilccla, and
to take charge of toe Bccond arctic expedition, on which
service he was employed two years. On the 14th of
November, 1820, ne was promoted to the rank of
Commander.

On the 19th of December, 1820, the Bedfordean
Gold Medal of the Bath and Weat of England Society
for the Encouragement of Arts, Manufactures, and
Commerce, was unanimously voted to him. On the
80th of December of that year, he was appointed to
the Fury, with orders to take command of the expedi-
tion to the Arctic Sea. With the sum of 600 guineas,
subscribed for the purpose, " the Explorer of the Tolur
Sea " was afterward presented with a silver vase,
highly embellished with devices emblematic of tho
arctic voyages. And on tho 24th of March, 1821, tho
city of Bath presented its freedom to Captain Puny, in
a box of oak, highly and appropriately oruamonted.
On the 8th of November, 1821, he obtained his post-
captain's rank. On the 22d of November, 1823, Jio
was presented with the freedom of the city of Win-
chester ; and, on the 1st of December, was appointed
acting hydrographer to the Admiralty in tho placo of
Captain Hind, deceased. In 1824 lie was appointed to
tho Hecla, to proceed on another exploring voyage.

On the 22d of November, 1825, Captain Parry was
formally appointed hydrographer to tho Admiralty,
which office he continued to hold until the 10th of
November, 1826.

In December, 1825, he was voted the freedom of the
borough of Lynn, in testimony of tho hi«^li S'^iico ciiter-
taincd by the corporation of liis meritorious and enter
prising conduct.

In April, 1827, he once more took the command of
his old ship, the Hecla, for another voyarto oi' discovery
toward the North Pole. On his return in tlio close of
the year, having paid off the Hecla at Deptford, he
resumed, on the 2a of November, hia dutios as hydro-
grapher to the Admiralty, which otHce ho held until
Sie 13th of May, 1829. jiaving received the Ivauor of

CAPTAIN UOBB^B BUOOND VOYAOB.

155

knighthood, ho thon rcRip^ncd in favor of the present
Admiral Beaufort, and, ol)tainin^ perniiHsion from the
Admiralty, proceeded to Now South Wales as resident
Commissioner to the Australian Agricultural Com
panjr, taking charge of their recently acquired largo
territory in tho neighborhood of Port Stephen, lie
returned from Australia in 1834. From the 7th of
March, 1836, to the 3d of February, 1836, he acted as
Poor Law Commissionc' in Norfolk. Early in 1837,
he was appointed to organize the Mail Packet Service,
then transferred to the Adm'valt;*, and afterward, in
April, was appointed Controller -^f steam machinery to
the Navy, wnich office he continued to -old up to De-
cember, 1846. From that period to 'Ic present time
he has tilled the post of Captair Supeiintendc it of the
RojoX Navy Hospital at Uasla;.

Captain John Ross's Second Voyage, 1829-33.

In the year 1829, Capt. Boss, the pioneer of arctic
exploration in the 19th century, being anxious once
more to display his zeal and enterprise as well as to
retrieve his nautical reputation from those unfortunate
blunders and mistakes which had attached to his first
voyage, and thus remove the cloud which had for
nearly ten years huner over his professional character,
endeavored without *'li' ct to induce the government
to send him out to the Polar Seas in charge of another
expedition. The Board of Admiralty of that day, in
the spirit of retrenchment which pervaded their coun-
cils, were, hew iver, not disposed to recommend any
further grant for research, even the Board of Longi-
tude was abolished, and the boon of 20,000^. offered
by act of parliament for the promotion of arctic dis-
covery, also withdrawn by a repeal of the act.

Captain Ross, however, undaunted by the chilling
indifference thus manifestod toward his proposiils by
the Admiralty, still persevered, having devoted 30 JO^.
out of his own funds toward the prosecution of tho ob-
ject he had in view. He was iortunate enough to

:.«f:

156

riiOOKKSS UK AKOTIC DISCOVKKY.

'^r

meet with a public-spirited and affluent coadjutoi And
supporter in the late Sir Felix Booth, the eminen dis-
tiller, and that gentleman nobly contributed IT^OOOZ.
toward the expenses. Captain Ross thereupon set to
work, and purchased a small Liverpool steamer named
the Victory, whose tonnage he increased to 150 tons.
She was provisioned for three years. Captain Ross
chose for his second in command his nephew. Com-
mander James Ross, who had been with him on his
first arctid expedition, and had subsequently accompa-
nied Parry in all his voyages. The other omcers of the
vessel were — Mr. William Thom, purser ; Mr. George
M'Diarmid, surgeon ; Thomas Blanky,Thos. Abernethy,
and George Taylor, as 1st, 2d, and 3d, mates ; Alex-
ander Brunton and Allen Macinnes as 1st and 2d engi-
neers ; and nineteen petty officers and seamen ; making
a complement in all of 28 men.

The Admiralty furnished toward the purposes of the
expedition a decked boat of sixteen tons, called the
ILrusenstern, and two boats which had been used by
Franklin, with a stock of books and instruments.

The vessel being reported ready for sea was visited
and examined by the late King of the French, the
Lords of the Admiralty, and other parties taking an
interest in the expedition, and set sail from Woolwich
on the 23d of May, 1S29. For all practical purposes
the steam machinery, on which the commander had
greatly relied, was found on trial utterly useless.

Having received much damage to her spars, in a
severe g&, the ship put in to the Danish settlement of
Holsteinberg, on the Greenland coast, to refit, and
sailed again to the northward on the 26th of June.
They found a clear sea, and even in the middle of Lan-
caster Sound and Barrow's Strait perceived no traces
of ice or snow, except what appeared on the lofty sum-
mits of some of the mountains. The thermometer stood
at 40°, and the weather was so mild that the officers
dined in the cabin without a fire, with the skylight
partially open. On the 10th of August they passed
Cape York, and thence crossed over into Regent Inl# ^

CAPTAIN K08SS SIXJOND VOYAGE.

157

making the western coast between Sepping's and Elwin
13ay on the 16th.

They here fell in with those formidable streams,
packs, and floating bergs of ice which had uftered siicli
obstructions to Parry's ships. From their proximity to
the magnetic pole, their compasses became useless as
they proceeded southward. On the 13th they reached
the spot where the Fury was abandoned, but no rem-
nants of the vessel were to be seen. All her sails,
stores, and provisions, on land, were, however, found ;
the hermetically-sealed tin canisters having kept the
provisions from the attacks of bears ; and the flour,
bread, wine, spirits, sugar, &c., proved as good, after
being here four years, as on the first day they were
packed. This store formed a very seasonable addition,
which was freely made available, and after increasing
their stock to two years and ten months' supply, they
still left a large quantity for the wants of any future
explorers. On the 15th, crossing Cresswell Bay, they*
reached Cape Garry, the farthest point which had been
seen by Parry. They were here much inconvenienced
and delayed by fogs and floating ice. While moun-
tains of ice were tossing around them on every side,
they were often forced to seek safety/ by mooring them-
selves to these formidable masses, and drifting with
them, sometimes forward, sometimes backward. In tliis
manner on one occasion no less than nineteen miles
were lost in a few hours ; at other times they under-
went frequent and severe shocks, yet escaped any seri-
ous damage.

Captain Ross draws a lively picture of what a ves-
sel endures in sailing among 'these moving hills. lie
reminds the reader that ice is stone, as solid as if it
were granite ; and he bids him " imagine these moun-
tains nurled through a narrow strait by a rapid tide,
meeting with the noise of thunder, breaking from each
other's precipices huge fragments, or rending each
other asunder, till, losing their former equilibrium,
they fell over headlong, lifting the sea around in break-
ers and whirling it in eddies. There is not a moment

158

I'lJOOUESS OF ABCnO DISCOVERY.

in which it can be conjectured what will happen m tlo
next ; there is not one which may not be the last. Th»»
attention is troubled to fix on any things amid such con
fusion ; still must it be alive, that it may seize on th^
single moment of help or escape which may occur
Yet with all this, and it is the hardest task of all, there
is nothing to be acted, — no efibrt to be made, — ho
must be patient, as if he were unconcerned or careless,
waiting, as he best can, for the fate, be it what it may,
which ne cannot influence or avoid."

Proceeding southward, Ross found Brentford Bay,
about thirty miles beyond Cape Garry, to be of consid-
erable extent, with some fine harbors. Landing here,
the British colors were unfurled, and the coast, named
after the promoter of the expedition, was taken posses-
sion of in the name of the King. Extensive and com-
modious harbors, named Ports Logan, Elizabeth, and
Eclipse, were discovered, and a large bay, which waa
called Mary Jones Bay. By the end of September
the ship had examined 300 miles of undiscovered coast
The winter now set in with severity, huge masses of
ice began to close around them, the thermometer sank
many degrees below freezing point, and snow fell very
thick. By sawing through the ice, the vessel was ffot
into a secure position to pass the winter, in a station
which is now named on the maps Felix Harbor. The
machinery of the steam engine was done away with,
the vessel housed, and every measure that could add to
the comfort of the crew adopted. They had abundance
of liiel, and provisions that might easily be extended
to three years.

On the 9th of January, 1831, they were visited by a
large tribe of Esquimaux, who were better dressed and
cleaner than those more to the northward. They dis-
played an intimate acquaintance with the situation and
bearings of the country over which they had traveled,
and two of them drew a very fair sketch of the neigh-
boring coasts, with which they were familiar ; this
was revised and corrected by a learned lady named
Teriksin, — the females seeming, from this and former

CAFl'AIN EOSS S SECOND VOVAOE.

159

instances, to have a clear knowledge of the hydrography
and geography of the continent, bays, straits, and riv-
ers which they had once traven ed.

On the 6th of April, Commander Ross, with Mr.
Blanky, the chief mate, and two Esquimaux guides, set
out to explore a strait which was reported as lying to
the westward, and which it was hoped might lead to
the western sea. After a tedious and arduous journey,
they arrived, on the third day, at a bay facing to the
westward and discovered, further inland, an extensive
lake, called by the natives Nie-tyle-le, whence a broad
river flowed into the bay. Their guides informed them,
however, there was no prospect of a water comunica-
tion south of their present position. Capt. Koss then
traced the coast fifty or sixty miles further south.

Several journeys were also made by Commander
Ross, both inland and along the bays and inlets. On
the 1st of May, from the top of a high hill, he observed
a large inlet, which seemed to lead to the western sea.
In order to satisfy himself on this point, he set out
again on the 17th of May, with provisions for three
weeks, eight dogs, and three companions. Having
crossed the great middle lake of the isthmus, he reached
his former station, and thence traced an inlet which
was found to be the mouth of a river named by them
Garry. From the high hill, they observed a chain of
lakes leading almost to Thom's Bay, the Victory's sta-
tion in Felix Harbor. Proceeding northwest along the
coast, they crossed the frozen surface of the strait which
has since been named after Sir James Ross, and came
to a large island which was called Matty ; keeping
along its northern shore, and passing over a narrow
strait, which they named after Wellington, they found
themselves on what was considered to be the main-
land, but which the more recent discoveries of Simpson
have shown to be an island, and which now bears the
name of King William's Land. Still journeying on-
ward, with difiiculties continually increasing, from
heavy toil and severe privation, the dogs became ex-
hausted with fatigue, and a burden rather than an aid
to the travelers.

160

PKOGKESS OF AllCTIC DISCUVJiliY.

One of their greatest embarrassments was, how to
distinguish between land and sea. " When all is ice,
and all one dazzling mass of white — when the surface
of the sea itself is tossed up and fixed into rocks, while
the land is, on the contrary, very often flat, it is not
always so easy a problem as it might seem on a super-
ficial view, to determine a fact which appears in words
to be extremely simple." Although their provisions
began to fall short, and the party were nearly worn
out. Commander Ross was most desirous of making as
much western discovery as possible ; therefore, depos-
iting every thing that could be dispensed with, he
pushed on, on the 28th, with only four days' provisions,
and reached Cape Felix, the most northern point of
this island, on the following day. The coast here took
a southwest direction, and there was an unbounded ex-
panse of ocean in view. The next morning, after hav-
ing traveled twenty miles farther, they reached a point,
which Ross called Point Victory, situated in lat. 64**
46' 19", long. 98° 32' 49'', while to the most distant one
in view, estimated to be in long. 99° 17' 58", he gave
the name of Cape Franklin. However loath to turn
back, yet prudence compelled them to do so, for as
they had only ten days' short allowance of food, and
more than 200 miles to traverse, there could not be a
moment's hesitation in adopting this step. A high
cairn of stones was erected before leaving, in which
was deposited a narrative of their proceedings.

The party endured much fatigue and suffering on
their return journey ; of the ei^t dogs only two sur-
vived, and the travelers in a most exhausted state ar-
rived in the neighborhood of the large lakes on the 8th
of June, where they fortunately fell in with a tribe of
natives, who received them hospitably, and supplied
them plentifolly with fish, so that after a day's rest
they resumed their journey, and reached the ship on
the 13th. Captain Ross in the meanwhile had made a
partial survey of the Isthmus, and discovered another
large lake, which he named after Lady Melville.

After eleven months' imprisonment their little ship

All

59', I

CAPTAIN boss's fiECOND VOYAGE.

161

once more floated bnoyaixt on the waves, having been
released from her icy barrier on the 17th of September,
but for the next few days made but little progress,
being beaten about among the icebergs, and driven
hither and thither by the currents.

A chanffo in the weather, however, took place, and
on the 2Ba they were once more frozen in, the sea in a
week after exhibiting one clear and unbroken surface.
All October was passed in cutting through the ice into
a more secure locality, and another dreary winter hav-
ing set in, it became necessary to reduce the allowance
of provisions. This winter was one of unparalleled
severity, tie thermometer falling 92° below freezing
point. During the ensuing spring a variety of explo-
ratory journeys were carried on, and in one of these
Commander Koss succeeded in planting the British
flag on the North Magnetic Pole. The position which
had been usually assigned to this interesting spot by
the learned of Europe, was lat. 70° N., and long. 98°
30' W. ; but Ross, by careful observations, determined
it to lie in lat. 70° 6' 17" IST., and long. 96° 46' 45" W.,
to the southward of Cape Nikolai, on the western shore
of Boothia. But it has since been found that the cen-
ter of magnetic intensity is a movable point revolving
within the frigid zone.

" The place of the observatory," Ross remarks, " was
as near to the magnetic pole as the limited means which
I possessed enabled me to determine. The amount of
the dip, as indicated by my dipping-needle, was 89°
69', being thus within one minute of the vertical ;
while the proximity at least of this pole, if not its ac-
tual existence where we stood, was further confirmed
by the action, or rather by the total inaction, of the
several horizontal needles then in my possession."

Parry's observations placed it eleven minutes distant
only from the site determined by Ross.

"As soon," continues Ross, "as I had satisfied my
own mind on the subject, I made known to the party
this gratifying result of all our joint labors ; and it was
then that, amidst mutual congratulations, we fixed the

-■■'•-'^^■l. " - i-Xl'S^ .JL^/.M.!.-

162

rROGRESS OF AECTIO BIBQOYEBY.

British flag on the spot, and took possession of the
North Magnetic Pole and its adjoining territory in the
name of Great Britain and King William IV. We
had abundance of materials for ouilding in the frag-
ments of limestone that covered the beach, and we
therefore erected a cairn of some magnitude, under
which we buried a canister containing a record of the
interesting fact, only regretting that we had not the
means of constructing a pyramid of more importance,
and of strength sufficient to withstand the assaults of
time and- of the Esquimaux. Had it been a pyramid
as large as that of Cheops, I am not quite sure that it
would have done more than satisfy our ambition under
the feelings of that exciting day."

On the 28th of August, 1831, they contrived to warp
the Victory out into the open sea, and made sail on
the following morning, but were soon beset with ice,
as on the former occasion, being once more completely
frozen in by the 27th of September.

On the previous occasion their navigation had been
three miles ; this year it extended to four. This pro-
tracted detention in the ice made their present posi-
tion one of great danger and peril. As there seemed
no prospect of extracting their vessel, the resolution
was come to of abandoning her, and making the best
of their way up the inlet to Fury Beach, there to avail
themselves of the boats, provisions, and stores, which
would assist them in reaching Davis' Straits, where
they might expect to fall in with one of the whale
ships.

On the 23d of April, 1832, having collected all that
was useful and necessary, the expedition set out, drag-
ging their provisions and boats over a vast expanse of
rugged ice. " The loads being too heavy to be car-
ried at once, made it necessary to go backward and
forward twice, and even oftener, the same day. They
had to encounter dreadful tempests of snow and drift,
and to make several circuits in order to avoid impas-
sable barriers. The general result was, that by the
12th of May they had traveled 329 miles to gain thirty

CAPTAIN E068'8 SECOND VOYAGE.

163

in a direct line, having in this labor expended a
month." After this preliminary movement, thev bade
a farewell to their little vessel, nailing her colors to
the mast. Capt. Boss describes himself as deeply af-
fected ; this being the first vessel he had been obliged
to abandon of thirty-six in which he had served dur-
ing the course of forty-two years. On the 9th of June,
Commander Eoss and two others, with a fortnight's
provisions, left the main body, who were more heav-
ily loaded, to ascertain the state of the boats and sup-
plies at Fury Beach. Ketuming they met their com-
rades on the 25th of June, reporting that they had
found three of the boats washed away, but enough still
left for their purpose, and all the provisions were in
good condition. The remainder of the journey was
accomplished by the whole party in a week, and on
the Ipt of July they reared a canvas mansion, to
which they gave the name of Somerset House, and
enjoyed a hearty meal.

By the 1st of August the boats were rendered ser-
viceable, and a considerable extent of open sea being
visible, they set out, and after much buffeting among
the ice in their frail shallops, reached the mouth of
the inlet by the end of August. After several fruit-
less attempts to run along Barrow's Strait, the obstruc-
tions of the ice obliged them to haul the boats on shore,
and pitch their tents. Barrow's Strait was found, from
repeated surveys, to be one impenetrable mass of ice.
After lingering here till the third week in September,
it was unanimously agreed that their only resource
was to fall back on the stores at Fury Beach, and there
spend their fourth winter. They were only able to get
half the distance in the boats, which were hauled on
shore in Batty Bay on the 24th of September, and
the rest of their journey continued on foot, tlie pro-
visions being dragged on sledges. On the 7th of Oc-
tober they once more reached their home at the scene
of the wreck. They now managed to shelter their
canvas tent by a wall of snow, and setting up an ex-
tra stove, made themselves tolerably comfortal'le until

164

PROGRESS OF AROTIO DISCOVERY.

the increasing severity of the winter, and rigor of
the cold, added to the tempestuous weather, made
them perfect prisoners, and sorely tried their patience.
Scurvy now becan to attack several of the party, and
on the 16th of February, 1833, Thomas, the carpenter,
fell a victim to it, and two others died. " Their situ-
ation was becoming truly awful, since, if they were
not liberated in the ensuing summer, little prospect
appeared of their surviving another year. It was
necessary to make a reduction in the allowance of
^reserved meats ; bread was somewhat deficient, and
the stock of wine and spirits was entirely exhausted.
However, as they caught a few foxes, which were con-
sidered a delicacy, and there was plenty of flour,
sugar, soups, and vegetables, a diet could be easily
arranged sufficient to support the party."

"While the ice remained firm, advantage was taken
of the spring to carry forward a stock of provisions to
Batty Bay, and this, though only thirty-two miles, oc-
cupied them a whole month, owing to their reduced
numbers from sickness and heavy loads, with the jour-
ney ings to and fro, having to go over the ground eight
times.

On the 8th of July they finally abandoned this de-
pot, and encamped on the 12th at their boat station in
batty Bay, where the aspect of the sea was watched
with intense anxiety for more than a month. On the
15th of August, taking advantage of a lane of water
which led to the northward, the party embarked, and
on the following morning had got as far as the turn-
ing point of their last year's expedition. Making their
way slowly among the masses of ice with which the
inlet was encumbered, on the 17th they found the wide
expanse of Barrow's Strait open before them, and nav-
igable, and reached to within twelve miles of Capo
York. Pushing on with renewed spirits, alternately
rowing and sailing, on the night of the 25th they
rested in a good harbor on the eastern shore of Navy
Board Inlet. At four on the following morning they
were roused from their slumbers by the joyful intelli-

CAPTAIN boss's SECOND VOYAGE.

165

gence of a ship being in sight, and never did men
more hurriedly and energetically set out ; but the ele-
ments conspiring against them, after being baffled by
calms and currents, they had the misery to see the
ship leave them with a fair breeze, and found it im-
possible to overtake her, or make themselves seen. A
few hours later, however, their despair was relieved by
the sight of another vessel which was lying to in a calm.
By dint of hard rowing they were this time more for
tunate, and soon came up with her ; she proved to bo
the Isabella, of Hull, the very ship in which Ross had
made his first voyage to these seas. Capt. Ross was
told circumstantially of his own death, &c., two years
previously, and he had some difficulty in convincing
them that it was really he and his party who now stood
before them. So great was the joy with which they
were received, that the Isabella manned her yards,
and her former commander and his gallant band of
adventurers were saluted with three hearty cheers.
The scene on board can scarcely be described ; each
of the crew vied with the other in assisting and com-
forting the party, and it cannot better be told than in
Ross's own words : —

" The ludicrous soon took place of all other feelings ;
in such a crowd, and such confusion, all serious thought
was impossible, while the new buoyancy of our spirits
made us abundantly willing to be amused by the scene
which now opened. Every man was hungry, and waa
to be fed ; all were ragged, and were to be clothed ;
there was not one to whom washing was not indispen-
sable, nor one whom his beard did not deprive of all
human semblance. All, every thing too, was to be done
at once : it was washing, shaving, dressing, eating, all
intermingled ; it was all the materials of each jumbled
together, while in the midst of all there were intermina-
ble questions to be asked and answered on both sides ;
the adventures of the Yictory, our own escapes, the
politics of England, and the news which was now four
years old.

"But all subsided into peace at last. The sick were

. ■,<?■

#* ¥

166

PIIOOBEPS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

accommodated, the scaraen disposed of, and all was
done for us which care and kindnesB could perform.

" Night at length brought quiet and serioua thoughts,
and I trust there was not a man among us who did not
then express, where it was due, his gratitude for that
interposition which had raised us ail from a despair
which none could now forget, and had brought us from
the very borders of a most distant grave, to life and
friends and civilization. Long accustomed, however,
to a cold bed on the hard snow or the bare rock, few
could sleep amid the comfort of our new accommoda-
tions. I was myself compelled to leave the bed which
liad been kindly assigned me, and take my aljode in a
chair for the night, nor did it fare much better with the
rest. It was for time to reconcile us to this sudden and
violent change, to break through what had bccomo
habit, and inure us once more to the usages of our
former days."

The Isabella remained some time longer to prosecute
the fishery, and left Davis' Strait on lier homeward
passage on the 30th September. On the 12th of Oc-
tober they made the Orkney Islands, and arrived at
Hull on the 18th. The bold explorers, who had long
been given up as lost, were looked upon as men risen
from the grave, and met and escorted by crowds of
sympathizers. A public entertaiiiment was given to
them by the townspeople, at which the freedom of the
town was presented to Captain Ross, and next day ho
left for London, to report to the Admiralty, and was
honored by a presentatirm to the king at Windsor.

The Admiralty liberally rewarded all the parties,
except indeed Captain Koss. Commander J. C. Rosa
was appointed to the guardship at Portsmouth to com-
plete his period of service, and then received his post
rank. Mr. Thom, the purser, Mr. M'Diarmid, the sur-
geon, and the petty officers, were appointed to good
situations in the navy. The seamen received the usual
double pay given to arctic explorers, up to the time
of leaving their ship, and full pay from that date until
their arrival in England.

CAPTAIN ROBS^B B£COND VOYAGE.

167

A coramitteo of the House of Commons toolc up tho
case of Captain Koss early in the session of 1834, and
on their recommendation 5,000/. was granted him as a
remuneration for his pecuniary outlay and privations.

A baronetcy, on the recommendation ot the same
committee, was also conferred by his Majesty William
IV. on Mr. Felix Booth.

In looking back on the results of this voyage, no im-

{)artial inquirer can deny to Captain Ross the merit of
laving effected much good by tracing and surveying
the wnole of tho long western coast of Regent Inlet,
proving Boothia to bo a peninsula, and setting at rest
the probability of any navigable outlet being discovered
from this inlet to the Polar Sea. The lakes, rivers and
islands which were examined, proved with sufficient
accuracy the correctness of the information furnished to
Parry by the Esquimaux.

To Commander James Ross is due tho credit of
resolving many important, scientific questions, such as
the comoination of light with magnetism, fixing tho
exact position of the magnetic pole. lie was also tho
onl^ person in tho expedition competent to make obser-
vations in geology, natural history and botany. Out
of about 700 miles of new land explored. Commander
Ross, in the expeditions which he planned and con-
ducted, discovered nearly 500. He had, up to this
time, passed fourteen summers and eight winters in
these seas.

The late Sir John Barrow, in his " Narrative of Yoy-
Ages of Discovery and Research," p. 518, in opposition
to Ross's opinion, asserted that Boothia was not joined
to the continent, but that they vrere " completely divi-
ded by a navigable strait, ten miles wide and upward,
leading past Sack's Estuary, and into the Gulf (of
Bouthia,) of which the proper name is Akkolee, not
Boothia ; and moreover, tnat the two seas flow as freely
into each other as Lancaster Sound does into the Polar
Sea." This assumption has since been shown to bo
incorrect. Capt. Ross asserts there is a difference in
the level of these two seas.

• tpiT^UU ; -

168

PROGRESS OF ABCTIC iifSOOVERT.

I may liero fitly take a review of Captain Ri,<(i8*8 ser-
vices, lie entered tiie navy in 1700, Herved fifteen yeura
ns a midshipman, seven as a lieutenant, and seven as a
commander, and was posted on the 7tli of December,
1818, and appointed to the command of the first arctio
expedition ot this century. On his return he received
many marks of favor from continental sovereigns, was
knii^lited and made a Companion of the Bath on tliu
24tli of December, 1834 ; made a Commander of the
Sword of Sweden, a Knight of the Second Class of St
Anne of Prussia (in diamonds,) Second Class of tho
Legion of Honor, and of the Red Eagle of Prunsia, and
of Leopold of Belgium. Received the royal ])remiuii
from tho Geographical Society of London, in 183e3, fo
his discoveries in the arctic regions; also gold meduh
from the Geographical Society of Paris, and the Royrl
Societies of Sweden, Austria, and Denmark. The free-
dom of the cities of London, Liverpool, and Rristo) ;
six gold snuff-boxes from Russia, Ilolland, Denmark,
Austria, London and Baden ; a sword valued at lOO
guineas from the Patriotic Fund, for his sufferings, hav
ing been wounded thirteen times in three different
actions during the war ; and one of the value of 200.?.
from the King of Sweden, for service in the Baltic and
the White Sea. On the 8th of March, 1839, he was
appointed to the lucrative post of British consul at
Stockholm, which he held for six years.

Captain Back's Land Journey, 1833-35.

Four years having elapsed without any tidings being
received of Capt. Ross and his crew, it began to bo
generally feared in England that they had been added
to the number of former sufierers, in the prosecution of
their arduous undertaking.

Dr. Richardson, who nad himself undergone such
fright fril perils in the arctic regions with Franklin, was
tlie fir-- f to call public attention to the subject, in a letter
to t]u^ < ' eographical Society, in which he suggested a
project tor relieving them, if still alive and to be found ;

OAJTAIN back's LAND JOURNEY.

169

and ttt the same time volunteered his serviees to the
Colonial Secretary of the day, to conduct an exploring
party.

Although the expedition of Capt. Ross was not under-
taken under the auspices of government, it became a
national concern! to ascertain the ultimate fate of it, and
to make some effort for the relief of the party, whoso
home at that time might be the boisterous Kua, or whoso
shelter the snow hut or the floating iceberg. Dr. Rich-
ardson proposed to proceed from Hudson's Bay, in a
northwest direction to Coronation Gulf, where he was
to commence his search in an easterly direction. Pass-
ing to the north, along the eastern side of this ixiilf, he
would arrive at Point Turnagain, the eastern poinr of
his own former discovery. Ilaving accomplisli. I tli';,
he would continue his search toward theeastwa:'! until
he reached Melville Island, thus perfecting geographical
discovery in that quarter, arid a continued cojist lino
might be laid down from the Fury and Hecla Strait to
Beechey Point, leaving only the small space between
Franklm's discovery and that of the Blossom unexplored.
The proposal was mvorably received ; but owing to tho
political state of the country at the time, the oner was
not accepted.

A meeting was held in November, 1832, at the rooms
of the Horticultural Society, in Regent street, to obtain
funds, and arrange for fitting out a private relief expe-
dition, as the Admiralty ana Government were unablo
to do this officially, in consequence of Captain Ross's
expedition not being a public one. Sir George Cock-
burn took the chair, and justly observed that those offi-
cers who devoted their time to the service of science,
and braved in its pursuit the dangers of unknown and
ungenial climates, demanded the sympathy and assist-
ance of all. Great Britain had taken the lead in geo-
graphical discovery, and there was not one in this coun-
try who did not feel pride and honor in the fame she
had attained by the expeditions of Parry and Franklin ;
but if we wished to create future Parrys and Franklins,
if we wished to encourage British enterprise and cour

'\-

iro

PKOORESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

affe, we must prove that the officer who is out cf sight
ot his countrymen is not forgotten ; that there is con-
sideration for his sufferinffs, and appreciation of his
spirit. This reflection will cheer him in the hour of
trial, and will permit him, when surrounded by dangers
and privations, to indulge in hope, the greatest blessing
of man. Captain George Back, R. jN., who was in
Italy when the subject was first mooted, hastened to
England, and offerea to lead the party, and his services
were accepted. A subscription was ent^sred into, to
defray the necessary expenses, and upward of 6000^.
was raised ; of this sum, at the recommendation of Lord
Goderich, the then Secretary of State, the Treasury con-
tributed 2000^.

After an interview with the king at Brighton, to which
he was specially summoned. Captain Back made prepa-
rations for his journey, and laid down his plan of opera-
tions. In order to facilitate his views, and give him
greater authority over his men, special instructions and
authority were issued by the Colonial Office, and the
Hudson's Bay Company granted him a commission in
their service, and placed every assistance at his disposal
throughout their territory in North America.

Every thing being definitely arranged, Capt. Back,
accompanied by Dr. Richard King as surgeon and natu-
ralist, with three men who had been on the expedition
with Franklin, left Liverpool on the 17th of February,
1833, in one of the New York packet ships, and arrived
in America after a stormy passage of thirty-five days.
He proceeded on to Montreal, where he had great diffi-
culty in preventing two of the men from leaving him,
as their hearts began to fail them at the prospect of
the severe journey with its attendant difficulties, which
they had to encounter.

Four volunteers from the Royal Artillery corps here
joined him, and some voyageurs having been engaged,
the party left, in two canoes, on the 25th of April. Two
of his party deserted from him in the Ottawa -'iver.

On the 28th of June, having obtained his comple-
ment of men, he may be said to have commenced his

CArTAI.V BACKS LAND JOURNEY.

171

journey. They Buffered dreadfully from myriads of
siind-flies and musquitoes, being so disfiffurea by their
attacks that their features could scarcely be recognized.
Horse-flies, appropriately styled -' bull-dogs," were an-
other dreadful pest, which jDertinaciously gorged them-
selves, like the leech, until they seemed ready to burst.

" It is in vain to attempt to defend yourself against
these puny bloodsuckers ; though you crush thousands
of them, tens of thousands arise to avenge the death of
their companions, and you very soon discover that tho
conflict w^hich you are waging is one in which you are
sure to be defeated. So great at last are the pains and
fatigue in buffeting away this attacking force, that in
despair you throw yourself, half suffocated, in a blanket,
with your face upon the ground, and snatch a few min-
utes of sleepless rest." Capt. Back adds that the vig-
orous and unintermitting assaults of these tormenting
pests conveyed the moral lesson of man's helplessness,
since, with all our boasted strength, we are unable to
repel these feeble atoms of creation. " How," he says,
" can I possibly give an idea of the torment we endured
from the sand-flies ? As we divided into the confined
and suffocating chasms, or waded through the close
swamps, they rose in clouds, actually darkening the air ;
to see or to speak was equally difficult, for they rushed
at every undefended part, and fixed their poisonous
fangs in an instant. Our faces streamed with blood, as
if leeches had been applied, and there was a burning
and irritating pain, followed by immediate inflamma-
tion, and producing giddiness, which almost drove ug
mad, and caused us to moan with pain and agony.

At the Pine portage, Captain Back engaged the
services of A. R. McLeod, in the employ of the Hud-
son's Bay Company, and who had been fixed upon by
Governor Simpson, to aid the expedition. He was
accompanied by his wife, three children, and a ser-
vant; and had just returned from the Mackenzie River,
with a large cargo of furs. The whole family were at-
tached to tho party, and after some detentions of a
general and unimportant character they arrived at
8

172

niOGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

Fort Chipewyan on the 20th of July. Fort Resoiu
tion, on Great Slave Lake, was reached on the 8th of
August.

The odd assemblage of goods and voyageurs in their
encampment are thus graphically described by the
traveler, as he glanced around him.

"At my feet was a rolled bundle in oil-cloth, con-
taining some three blankets, called a bed ; near it a
piece of dried buffalo, fancifully ornamented with long
black hairs, which no art, alas, can prevent from insin-
uating themselves between the teeth, as you laboriously
masticate the tough, hard flesh; then a tolerably cleau
napkin, spread by way of table-cloth, on a red piece of
canvas, and supporting a tea-pot, some biscuits, and a
salt-cellar ; near this a tin plate, close by a square kind
of box or safe of the same material, rich with a pale,
greasy hair, the produce of the colony at Red River ;
and the last, the far-renowned j9^m??2i*(?£j^, unquestion-
ably the best food of the country for expeditions such
as ours. Behind me were two boxes containing astro-
nomical instruments, and a sextant lying on the ground,
while the different corners of the tent were occupied
by a washing apparatus, a gun, an Indian shot-pouch,
bags, basins, and an unhappy-looking japanned pot,
whose melancholy bumps and hollows seemed to re-
proach me for many a bruise endured upon the rocks
and portages between Montreal and Lake Winnipeck.
]N"or were my crew less motley than the furniture of
the tent. It consisted of an Englishman, a man from
Stornaway, two Canadians, two Metifs or half-breeds,
and three Iroquois Indians. Babel could not have pro-
duced a worso confusion of unharmonious sounds than
was the conversation they kept up."

Having obtained at Fort Resolution all possible in-
formation, from the Indians and others, relative to the
course of the northern rivers of which he was in search,
he divided his crew into two parties, five of whom were
left as an escort for Mr. McLeod, and four were to ac-
company himself in search of the Great Fish River,
since appropriately named after Back himself.

CAITAIN KACK's land JOURNEY.

173

On tho lOtli of August they began the ascent of the
Hoar Frost River, whose course was a series of the
most fearful cascades and rapids. The woods hero
were so thick as to render them almost impervious
consisting chiefly of stunted firs, which occasioned in
finite trouble to the party to force their way through
added to which, thev had to clamber over fallen trees
through rivulets, and over bogs and swamps, until tho
difiiculties ajDpeared so appalling, as almost to dis-
hearten the party from prosecuting their journey. Tho
heart of Captain Back was, however, of too stern a cast
to be dispirited by difiiculties, at which less perse ver
ing explorers would have turned away discomfited,
and cheering on his men, like a bold and gallant leader,
the first in the advance of danger, they arrived at length
in an open space, where they rested for awhile to recruit
their exhausted strength. The place was, indeed, one
of barrenness and desolation ; crag was piled upon crag
to the height of 2000 feet from the base, and the course
of the river liere, in a state of contraction, was marked
by an uninterrupted line of foam.

However great the beauty of the scenery may be,
and however resolute may be the will, severe toil will
at length relax the sp'iv's v^nd bring a kind of despon-
dency upon a hfirt n.tu -ally oold and undaunted. This
was found particularly the • u e now with i''^ 'nterpre-
ter, who became a le^d weight upon the pa.-b- Rapid
now succeeded r.;|id ; scarcely had they surmounted
one fall than another p'esented it-elf, rising like an am-
phitheater before them to the height of fifty feet. They,
however, gained at length the ascent of this turbulent
and unfriendly ri'/or, the romantic beauty and wild
Bcenery of which were strikingly grand, and after pass-
ijig successively a series of ^ rtageg, rapids, falls, lakes,
and rivers, on the 27th Bac'c observed from the summit
of a high hill a very large lake full of deep bays and
islands, and which has been nairicd Aylmer Lake, after
the Governor-General of Canada at that time, The
boat was ^ent out >vith three mm to pearph for the lake,
or outlet of the river, which thev discovered on the eeo-

iPs

"^'tl

PE0GRES9 or AKCTIC DISCOVERY.

ond day, and Captain Back himself, during their ab^
sence, also accidentally discovered its source in the
Sand Hill Lake, not far from his encampment. Kot
prouder was Bruce when he stood on the green god
which covers the source of the Nile, than was Captain
Back when he found that he was standing at the source
of a river, the existence of which was known, but the
course of which was a problem, no traveler had yet ven-
tured to solve. Yielding to that pleasurable emotion
which discoverers, in the first bound of their transport,
may be pardoned for indulging, Back tells us he threw
himself down on the bank and drank a hearty draught
of the '"mpid water.

"For this occasion," he adds, "I had reserved a lit-
tle grog, and need hardly say with what cheerfulness
it was shared among the crew, whose welcome tidings
had verified the notion of Dr. Richardson and myself,
and thus placed beyond doubt the existence of the
Thlew-ee-choh, or Great Fish River.

On the 30th of August, they began to move toward
the river, but on reaching Musk-ox Lake, it was found
impossible to stand the force of the rapids in their frail
canoe, and as winter was approaching, their return to
the rendezvous on Slave Lake was determined on.

At Clinton Colden Lake, some Indians visited them
from the Chief Akaitcho, who, it will be remembered,
was the guide of Sir John Franklin. Two of these In-
dians remembered Captain Back, one having accom-
panied him to the Coppermine River, on Franklin's
first expedition.

At the Cat or Artillery Lake, they had to abandon
their canoe, and perform the rest of the journey on foot
over precipitous rocks, through frightful gorges and ra-
"vines, heaped with masses of granite, and along narrow
ledges, where a fabe step would have been fatal.

At Fort Reliance, the party found Mr. McLeod had,
during their absence, erected the frame-work of a com-
fortable residence for them, and all hands set to work
to complete it. After many obstacles and difficulties,
it was finished.

I I

..;.

OAI-TAIN B.iCK'B LAND JOURNEY.

171

Dr. Kinff joined them on the 16th of September, with
two laden oateaux.

On the 6th of November, they exchanged their cold
tents for the new house, which was fifty feet long by
thirty broad, and contained four rooms, besides a spa-
cious hall in the center, for the reception and accom-
modation of the Indians, to which a sort of rude kitchen
was attached.

As the winter advanced, bands of starving Indians
continued to arrive, in the hc»pe of obtaining some re-
lief, as little or nothing was to be procured by -hunting.
They would stand around while the men were taking
their meals, watching every mouthful with the most
longing, imploring look, but yet never uttered a com-
plaint.

At other times they would, seated round the fire, oc-
cupy themselves in roasting and devouring small bits
of their reindeer garments, which, even when entire,
afforded them a very insufficient protection against a
temperature of 102° below freezing point.

The sufferings of the poor Indians at this period are
described as frightful. " Famine with her gaunt and
bony a'Di," sayo Back, " pursued them at every turn,
withered their energies, and strewed tliem lifeless on
the cold bosom of the snow." It was impo^^^ible to
afford relief out of their scanty store to all, bnt even
small portions of the mouldy pemmican inten'KMl for
the dogs, unpalatable as it was, was gladly r« (:t;ived,
and fcaved many from perishing. " Often," add- [>ack,
" did I share my own plate with the children whose
helpless state and piteous cries were peculiarly distress-
ing ; compassion for the full-grown may, or may not,
be felt, but that heart must be cased in steel which is
insensible to the cry of a child for food."

At this critical juncture, Akaitcho made his appear-
ance with an opportune supply of a little meat, which
in some measure enabled Captain Back to relievo the
sufferers around him, many of whom, to his great de-
light, went away with Akaitcho. The stock of meat
was soon exhausted, and they had to open their pcm-

176

PBOORESS OF AROTIO DISCOVERY.

mican. Tho officers contented themselves with the
short supply of half a pound a day, but the laboring
men could not do with less than a pound and three-
quarters. The cold now set in with an intensity which
Captain Back had never before experienced, — the ther-
mometer, on the 17th of Januarv, being 70° below zero.
" Such indeed, (he says,) was the abstraction of heat,
that with eight laree logs of dry wood on the fire, I
could not get the tnermometer higher than 12° below
zero. Ink and paint froze. The sextant cases and
boxes of seasoned wood, principally fir, all split. The
skin of the hands became dry, cracked and opened
into unsightly and smarting gashes, which we were
obliged to anoint with grease. On one occasion, after
washing my face within three feet of the fire, my hair
was actually clotted with ice before I had time to dry it."

The hunters suffered severely from the intensity of
jhe cold, and compared the sensation of handling their
guns to that of touching red-hot iron, and so excessive
was the pain, that they were obliged to wrap thongs of
leather round the triggers to keep their fingers from
coming into contact with the steel. •

The sufferings which the party now endured were
great, i:nd had it not been for tne exemplary conduct
of Akaitcho in procuring them game, it is to be doubted
whether any would have survived to tell the misery
they had endured. The sentiments of this worthy sav
age were nobly expressed — " The great chief trusts in
us, and it is better that ten Indians perish, than that
one ';v}jite man should perish through our negligencQ
and breach of faiiJ,"

On the 14th of February, Mr. McLeod and his family
removed to a place half way between the fort and tho
Indians, in order to facilitate their own support, and
assist in procuring food by hunting. His situation,
however, became soon one of the greatest embarrass-
ment, he and his family being surrounded by difficul-
ties, privations, and death>^. Six of the natives near
him sank under the horrors of starvation, and Akaitchc
and his hunters were twelve days' march distant.

;

CAITAIN BACK'S LAND JOURNEY.

177

Toward the end of April, Capt. Back began to make
arrangements for constructing boats for prosecuting the
expedition once more, and while so employed, on the
25th a messenger arrived with the gratifying intelli-
gence, that Capt. Ross had arrived safely in England,
confirmation of which, was afibrded in extracts from
the Times and Herald, and letters from the long lost
adventurers themselves. Their feelings at these glad
tidings are thus described : — " In the fullness of our
hearts we assembled together, and humbly offered up
our thanks to that merciful Providence, who in the
beautiful language of scripture hath said, ' Mine own
will I bring again, as I did sometime from the deeps
of the sea.' iSie thought of so wonderful a preserva-
tion overpowered for a time the common occurrences
of life. We had just sat down to breakfast ; but our
appetite was gone, and the day was passed in a fever-
ish state of excitement. Seldom, indeed, did my friend
Mr. Ejng or I indulge in a libation, but on this joyful
occasion economy was forgotten ; a treat was given to
the men, and for ourselves the social sympathies were
quickened by a generous bowl of punch." Capt. Back's
former interpreter, Augustus, hearing that he was in
the country, set out on foot from Hudson's Bay to join
him, but getting separated from his two companions,
the gallant little fellow was either exhausted by suffer-
ing and privations, or, caught in the midst of an open
traverse, in one of those terrible snow storms which
may be said to blow almost through the frame, he had
sunk to rise no more, his bleachea remains being dis-
covered not far from the Riviere a Jean. " Such,"
says Capt. Back, " was the miserable end of poor Au-
gustus, a faithful, disinterested, kind-hearted creature,
who had won the regard, not of myself only, but I
may add, of Sir J. Franklin and Dr. Richardson also,
by qualities which, wherever found, in the lowest is ia
the highest forms of social life, are the ornament and
charm of humanity."

On the Tth of June, all the preparations being com-
j^etedj McLeod having been previously sent on to hunt,

178

PROOBESS OF AROTIO DISCOVERY.

!i!i

, 1 r

and deposit casks of meat at various stages, Back sot
out with Mr. King, accompanied by four voyagers and
an Indian guide. The stores not required were buried,
and the doors and windows of the liouso blocked up.

At Artillery Lake, Back picked up the remainder
of his party, with the carpenters who had been em-
ployed jjreparing boats. The lightest and best was
chosen and placed on runners plated with iron, and in
this manner she was drawn over the ice by two men and
six fine dogs. The eastern shore of the lake was fol-
lowed, as it was found less rocky and precipitous than
the o])posite one. The march was prosecuted by night,
the air being more fresh and pleasant, and the party
took rest in the day. The glare of the ice, the difh-
culty encountered in getting the boat along, the ice be-
ing so bad that the spikes of the runners cut through
instead of sliding over it, and the thick snow which
fell in June, greatly increased the labor of getting along.
The cold, raw wind pierced through them in spite of
cloaks and blankets. After being caulked, the boat
was launched on the 14th of June, the lake being suf-
ficiently unobstructed to admit of her being towed
along shore. The weather now became exceedingly
unpleasant — hail, snow, and rain, pelted them one after
tlie other for some time without respite, and then only
yielded to squalls that overturned the boat. With
alternate spells and baitings to rest, they however,
gradually advanced on the traverse, and were really
making considerable progress when pelting showers of
sleet and drift so dimmed and confused the sight, dark-
ening the atmosphere, and limiting their view to only
a few paces before them, as to render it an extremely
perplexing task to keep their course.

On the 23d of June, they fortunately fell in with a
cache made for them by their avant-coiirier^ Mr. Mc-
Leod, in which was a seasonable supply of deer and
musk-ox flesh, the latter, however, so impregnated with
the odor from whicli it takes its namo, that tlio men de-
clared they ^vould rather (;tavv\> thwe days than swal-
low a mouthful r)f it. To remove this unfavorable im-

CAPTAIN DACK 8 LAND JOURNEY.

179

pression, Capt. Back ordered the daily rations to l)o
served from it for Lis own mess as well as theirs, tak-
ing occasion at the same time, to impress on their minds
the injurious consequences of voluntary aljstinence,
and the necessity of accommodating their tastes to
such food as the country might supply. Soon after an-
other caclie was met with, thus making eleven animals
in all, that had been thus obtained and secured for
them by the kind care of Mr. McLeod.

On the 27th, they reached Sandy Hill Bay, where
they found Mr. McLeod encamped. On the iJ8th, the
boat being too frail to be dragged over the portage,
about a quarter of a mile in length, was carried bodily
by the crew, and launched safely in the Thlew-ee-choh
or Fish River. After crossing the portage beyond
Musk-ox Rapid, about four miles in length, and having
all his party together. Captain Back took a survey ot
his provisions for the three months of operations, which
he found to consist of two boxes of maccaroni, a case
of cocoa, twenty-seven bags of pemmican of about 80
lbs. each, and a keg with two gallons of rum. This he
considered an adequate supply if all turned out sound
and good. The difficulty, however, of transporting a
weight of 5000 lbs, over ice and rocks, by a circuitous
route of full 200 miles,, may be easily conceived, not to
mention the pain endured in walking on some parts
where the ice formed innumerable spilvcs that pierced
like needles, and in other places where it wae so black
and decayed, that it threatened at every step to engulf
tlie adventurous traveler. These and similar difhcul
ties could only be overcome by the most steady perse
vorance, and the most determined resolution.

Among the group of dark figures huddled together
in the Indian encampment around them, Capt. Back
found his old acquaintance, the Indian beauty of whom
mention is made in Sir John Franklin's narrative un-
der the name of Green Stockings. Although sur-
rounded with a family, with one urchin in her cloak
clinging to her back, and several other matei'nal ac-
Jompaniments, Copt. Back immediately recognized

••""•r

18C

rROOUlCSS OF AltCllO DfSCOVKItY.

I
t

her, and called her by her iiamc, ut which she laughed,
and said she was an old womo.n liow, and brg-ged that
she might be relieved by the " medicine man " tor she
wrt8 very much out of health. However, notwithstand-
ing all this, she was still the beauty of her tribe, and
with that consciousness which belongs to all belles, sav-
age or polite, she seemed by no means displeased when
lUick sketched her portrait.

Mr. McLeod was now sent back, taking with him ten
persons arid fourteen dogs. His instructions were to
])rocced to Fort Resolution for the stores expected to be
sent there by the Hudson's Bay Company, to build a
house in some good locality, lor a permanent fishing
station, and to be again on the banks of the Fish lliver
]jy the middle of September, to afford Back and his
l^arly any assistance or relief they might require.

The old Indian chief Akaitcho, hearing from the in-
terpreter that Capt. Back was in his immediate neigh-
borhood, said, " I have known the chief a long time,
and I am afraid I shall never see him again ; I will go
to hjm." On his arrival he cautioned Back against the
dangers of a river which he distinctly told him the
present race of Indians knew nothing of. He also
warned him against the treachery of tlie Esquimaux,
which he said was always masked under the guise of
friendship, observing they would attack him when ho
least expected it. " I am afraid," continued the good
old chief, " that I shall never see you again ; but should
you escape from the great water, take care you are not
caught by the winter, and thrown into a situation like
that in which you were on your return from the Cop-
permine, for you are alone, and the Indians cannot
assist you."

The carpenters, with an Iroquois, not being further
required, were dismissed to join Mr. McLeod, and on
the 8th of July they proceeded down the river. The
boat was now launched and laden with her cargo, which,
together with ten persons, she stowed well enough for
a smooth river, but not for a lake or sea way. The
weight was calculated at 3360 lbs., exclusive of the
av'ning, polos, sails, &c., and the crew.

CAPTAIN BACK 8 LAND JOUKNEY.

181

Their progress to the sea was now one continncd suc-
cusHi(»ii of (Innt^crous and formidable falls, rapiflH, and
cataracts, which freqiientlv made Back hold his breath,
expecting to see the boat (lashed to shivers against some
protruding rocks amidst the foam and furv at the foot
of a rapid. The only wonder is how in their frail leaky
boat they ever shot one of the rapids. Rapid after
rapid, and fall after fall, were passed, each accomj.a-
nied with more or less danger ; and in one instance the
boat was only ^ed by all hands jumping into tlio
breakers, and ping her stern up the stream, until
she was cleared from a rock that had brought .her up.

They had hardly time to get into their places again,
when they were carried with considerable velocity
past a river which joined from the westward. After
passing no less than five rapids within the distance of
three miles, they came to one long and appalling one,
full of rocks and lar^e boulders ; the sides hemmed in
by a wall of ice, and the current flying with the veloc-
ity and force of a torrent. The boat was lightened of
her cargo, and Capt. Back placed himself on a high
rock, with an anxious desire to see her run the rapid.
He had every hope which confidence in the judgment
and dexterity of his principal men could inspire, but it
was impossible not to feel that one crash would be fatal
to the expedition. Away they went with the speed of
an arrow, and in a moment the foam and rocks hid
them from view. Back at last heard what sounded in
his ear like a wild shriek, and he saw Dr. King, who
was a hundred yards before him, make a sign with his
gun, and then run forward. Back followed with an
agitation which may be easily conceived, when to his
inexpressible joy he found that the shriek was the tri
umpnant whoop of the crew, who had landed safely in
a small bay below. For nearly one hundred miles of
the distance they were impeded by these frightful whirl
pools, and strong and heavy rapids.

On opening one of their bags of pemmican, the in
genuity of the Indians at pilfering was discovered, sue
cessive layers of mixed sand, stones, and green mea

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182

ritOGRESS OV ARCTIC DISCOVER i'.

having been artfully and cleverly substituted for tho
dry meat. Fearful that they might be carrying heaps
of stone instead of provision, Back had to examine
carefully the remainder, which were all found sound
and well-tasted. He began to fear, from the inclination
of the river at one time toward the south, that it would
be found to discharge itself in Chesterfield Inlet, in
Hudson's Bay, but subsequently, to his great joy, it
took a direct course toward the north, andnis hopes of
reaching the Polar Sea were revived. The river now
led into several large lakes, some studded with islands,
which were named successively after Sir H. Pelly, and
Mr. Garry, of the Hudson's Bay Company ; two others
were named Lake Macdougall and Lake Franklin.

On the 28th of July, they fell in with a tribe of about
thirty-five very friendly Esquimaux, who aided them
in transporting their boat over the last long and steep
portage, to which his men were utterly unequal, and
Back justly remarks, to their kind assistance he is
mainly indebted for getting to the sea at all.

It was late when they got away, and while threading
their course between some sand-banks with a strong
current, they first caught sight of a majestic headland
in the extreme distance to the north, which had a
coast-like appearance. This important promontory.
Back subsequently named after our gracious Queen,
then Princess Victoria.

" This, then," observes Back, " may be considered as
the mouth of the Thlew-ee-choh, which after a violent
and tortuous course of 530 geographical miles, running
through an iron-ribbed country, without a single tree
on the whole line of its banks, expanding into five
large lakes, with clear horizon, most embarrassing to
the navigator, and broken into falls, cascades, and rap-
ids, to the number of eighty-three in the whole, pours
its water into the Polar Sea, in lat. 67° 11' N., and long.
94° 30' W., that is to say, about thirty-seven miles
more south than the Coppermine River, and nineteen
miles more south than that of Back's Eiver, (of Frank
lin,) at the lower extremity of Bathurst's Inlet."

CAl'TAIN BACKS LAND JOUUNEV.

183

k or several iliiys Back was abio to make but slow
\ rof'ress along the easteiii shore, in consequence of the
solid body of drift-ice. A barren, rocky elevation of
800 feet high, was named Cape Beaufort, after the
present hydrographer to the Admiralty. A bluff point
on the eastern side of the estuary, which he considered
to be the northern extreme, he named Cape Hay.
Dean and Simpson, however, in 1839, traced the shore
much beyond this. The difficulties met with here, be-
ean to dispirit the men. For a week or ten days they
hud a continuation of wet, chilly, foggy weather, and
tlie only vegetation, fern and moss, was so wet that it
would not burn ; being thus without fuel, during this
time they had but one hot meal. Almost without
water, without anv means of warmth, or any kind of
warm or comfortmg food, sinking knee-deep, as they

Sroceeded on land, m the soft slush and snow, no won-
er that some of the best men, benumbed in their lim])s
and dispirited by the dreary and unpromising prospect
before tliem, broke out for a moment, in low murmur-
ings, that theirs was a hard and painful duty.

Captain Back found it utterly impossible to proceed,
as he had intended, to the Point Tumagain of Franklin,
and after vainly essaying a land expedition by three of
the best walkers, and these having returned, after mak-
ing but fifteen miles' way, in consequence of the heavy
rains and the swampy nature of the ground, he came
to the resolution of returning. Reflecting, he says, on
the long and dangerous stream they had to ascend,
combining all the bad features of the worst rivers in
the country, the hazard of the falls and the rapids, and
the slender hope which remained of their attaining
even a single mile further, he felt he had no choice.
Assembling, therefore, the men around him, and un-
furling the British flag, which was saluted with three
cheers, he announced to them this determination. The
latitude of this place was 68° 13' 67" N., and longitude
94° 68' 1" W. The extreme point seen to the north-
ward on the western side of the estuary, in latitude 68°
46' N., longitude 96° 20' W., Back named Cape Rich-

184

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

ardson. The spirits of many of the men, whose health
]ia<l suffered greatly for want of warm and nourishing
food, now brightened, and they set to work with alac-
rity to prepare for their return journey. The boat be-
ing dragged across, was brought to the place of their
former station, after which the crew went back four
miles for their baggage. The whole was safely con-
veyed over before the evening, when the water-casks
weie broken up to make a fire to warm a kettle of
cocoa, the second hot meal they had had for nine days.

On tl«) 15th of August, they managed to make their
way about twenty miles, on their return to the south-
ward, through a breach in the ice, till they came to
open water. The difficulties of the river were doubled
in the ascent, from having to proceed against the stream.
All the obstacles of rocks, rapids, sand-banks, and long
portages had to be faced. In some days as many as
sixteen or twenty rapids were ascended. They found,
as they proceeded, tnat many of the deposits of pro-
visions, on which they relied, had been discovered and
destroyed by wolves. On the 16th of September, they
met Mr. McLeod and his party, who had been several
days at Sand Hill Bay, waiting for them. On the 24th,
they reached the Ah-hel-dessy, where they met with
some Indians. They were ultimately stopped by one
most formidable perpendicular fall, and as it was found
impossible to convey the boat further over so rugged
and mountainous a country, most of the declivities of
which were coated with thin ice, and the whole hidden
by snow, it was here abandoned, and the party pro-
ceeded the rest of the journey on foot, each laden with
a pack of about 75 lbs. weight.

Late on the 27th of September, they arrived at their
old habitation. Fort Reliance, after being absent nearly
four months, wearied indeed, but " trmy grateful for
the manifold mercies they had experienced in the
course of their long and perilous journey." Arrange-
ments were now made to pass the winter as comforta-
bly as their means would permit, and as there was no
probability that there would Le sufficient food in the

lin

fie

CAPTAIN back's LAND JOURNEY.

185

house for the consumption of the whole party, all ex-
cept six were sent with Mr. JVlcLeod to the fisheries.
The Indians brought them provisions from time to time,
and their friend Akaitcho, with his followers, though
not very successful in hunting, was not wanting in
his contributions. This old cnieftain was, however,
no longer the same active and important personage he
had been in the days when he rendered such good
service to Sir John Franklin. Old age and infirmities
were creeping on him and rendering him peevish and
fickle.

On the 2l8t of March following, having left- direc-
tions with Dr. King to proceed, at the proper season,
to the Company's factory at Hudson's Bay, to embark
for England in their spring ships. Captain Back set
out on his return through Canada, calling at the Fishe-
ries to bid farewell to his esteemed friend, Mr. McLeod,
and arriving at the Norway House on the 24th, where
he settled and arranged the accounts due for stores,
&c., to the Hudson's Bay Company. He proceeded
thence to New York, embarked for England, and ar-
rived at Liverpool on the 8th of September, after an
absence of two years and a half. Back was honored
with an audience of his Majesty, who expressed his ap-
probation of his efforts — 6rst in the cause of human-
ity, and next in that of geographical and scientific re-
search. He has since been knighted ; and in 1835, the
Itoyal Geographical Society awarded him their gold
medal, (the Eoyal premium,) for his discovery of the
Great Fish River, and navigating it to the sea on the
arctic coast.

Dr. King, with the remainder of the party, (eight
men,) reached England, in the Hudson's Bay Com-
pany's ship, in the following month, October.

Of Captain Back's travels it has been justly observed
that it is impossible to rise from the perusal of them
^^^ithout being struck with astonishment at the extent of
sufferings which the human frame can endure, and at the
same time the wondrous display of fortitude which was
exhibited under circumstances of so appalling a nature,

180

PB00RES8 OF AliCTIO DISCOVERY.

as to invest tho narrative with tlie character of a roman-
tic fiction, rather than an iinexaggerated tale of actual
reality. lie, however, suftered not despair nor despon-
dency to overcome him, but gallantly and undauntedly
inirsued his course, until he returned to his native land
to add to the number of those noble spirits whose names
will bo earned to posterity as the brightest ornaments
to the country which gave them birth.

Captain Back's Voyage of the Terror.

In the year 1836, Captain Back, who had only re-
turned the previous autumn, at the recommendation of
the Geographical Societpr, undertook a voyage in tho
Terror up Hudson's Strait.

He was to reach "Wager River, or Eepulse Bay, and
to make an overland journey, to examine the bottom
of Prince Begent's Inlet, sending other parties to tho
north and west to examine the Strait of the Fury and
Hecla, and to reach, if possible, Franklin's Point Turn-
again.

Leaving England on the 14th of June, he an*ived on
the 14th of August at Salisbury Island, and proceeded
up the Frozen Strait ; off Cape Comfort the ship got
frozen in, and on the breaking up of the ice by one of
those frequent convulsions, the vessel was drifted right
uj) the Frozen Channel, grinding large heaps that op-
posed her progress to powder.

From December to March she was driven about by
the fur^ of the storms and ice, all attempts to release
her being ntterly powerless. She thus floated till tho
10th of July, and for three days was on her beam-ends ;
but on the 14th she suddenly righted. The crazy vessel
with her gaping wounds was scarcely able to transport
the crew across the stormy waters of the Atlantic, but
the return voyage which was rendered absolutely neces-
sary, was fortunately accomplished safely.

I shall now give a concise summary of Captain Sir
George Back's arctic services, so as to present it more
readily to the reader:

j;l„i,: »».

DBASE AND HIMPSON S DISCOVERIES.

187

In 1818 lio was Admiralty Mate on board the Trent,
viiidcr Franklin. In 1819 ho again accompanied liiin
dn his first overland journey, and was with him in all
those perilous sufferings which are elsewhere narrated,
lie was also as a Lieutenant with Franklin on his sec-
/)nd journey in 1825. Having been in the interval ]>n>
moted to the rank of Commander, he proceeded, in 183.*^,
accompanied by Dr. King and a party, through North-
ern America to the Polar Sea, in search ol Captain
John Ross. He was posted on the 30th of September,
1835, and appointed m the following year to the com-
mand of the Terror, for a voyage of discovery in Hud-
son's Bay.

Messrs. Dease and Simpson's Discwveries.

In 1836 the Hudson's Bay Company resolved upon
undertaking the completion of the survey of the north
crn coast of their territories, forming the shores of
Arctic America, and small portions ot which were lell
undetermined between the discoveries of Captains Back
and Franklin.

They commissioned to this task two of their officers,
Mr. Thomas Simpson and Mr. Peter "Warren Dease, who
were sent out with a party of twelve men from the com
pany's chief fort, with proper aid and appliances. De-
scending the Mackenzie to the sea, they reached and
surveyed in July, 1837, the remainder of the western
part of the coast left unexamined by Franklin in 1825,
from his Return Reef to Cape Barrow, where the Bios
som's boats turned back.

Proceeding on from Return Reef two new rivers
were discovered, — the Gany and the Colville; the
latter more than a thousand miles in length. Althougli
it was the height of summer, the ground was found
frozen several inches below the surface, the spray froze
on the oars and rigging of their boats, and the ice lay
smooth and solid in the bays, as in the depth of winter.

On the 4th of August, having left the boats and pro-
\;ceded on by land, Mr. Simpson arrived at Elson Bay,

.•¥

188

PROOBESS OF A.RCriO DISCXJVERY.

r-i

■

which point Lieutenant Elson had reached in the Blos-
som's barge in 1826.

The party now returned to winter at Fort Confidence,
on Great 'feear Lake, whence they were instructed to
prosecute their search to the eastward next season, and
to communicate if possible with Sir George Back's
expedition.

They left their winter quarters on the 6th of June,
1838, and descended Dease's River. They found the
Coppermine River much swollen by floods, and encum-
bered with masses of floating ice. The rapids they had
to pass were very perilous, as may be inferred from the
following graphic description; —

" We had to pull for our lives to keep out of the suc-
tion of the precipices, along whose base the breakers
raged and foamed with overwhelming fury. Shortly
before noon, we came in sight of Escape Rapid ot*
Franklin ; and a glance at the overhanging clift' told us
that there was no alternative but to run down with a
full cargo. Li an instant," continues Mr. Simpson, " we
were in the vortex ; and before we were aware, my boat
was borne toward an isolated rock, which the boiling
surge almost concealed. To clear it on the outside was
ne longer possible ; our only chance of safety was to
run between it and the lofty eastern clift*. The word
was passed, and every breath was hushed. A stream
which dashed down upon us over the brow of the prcci
pice more than a hundred feet in height, mingled with
the spray that whirled upward from the rapid, forming
a terrific shower-bath. The pass was about eight feet
wide, and the error of a single foot on either side would
have been instant destruction. As, guided by Sinclair's
consummate ' skill, the boat shot safely through those
jaws of death, an involuntary cheer arose. Our next
impulse was to turn round to view the fate of our com-
rades behind. They had profited by the peril we in-
curred, and kept without the treacherous rock in time."

On the 1st of July they reached the sea, and en-
camped at the mouth of the river, where they waited
for the openiug of the ice till the 17th. They doubled

DKAHh AND SIMl'riO-N H DISCOVKUIKS.

ISO

om-
in-

ited
)led

Cupu Barrow, one of the northern points of Butliurst'n
Inlet, on the 2i)th, but were prevented eroyaing the inlet
1)V the continuity of the ice, and obliged to make a
circuit of nearly 160 miles by Arctic Sound.

Some very pure specimens of copper ore were found
on one of the Barry Islands. After doubling Capo
Flinders on the Oth of August, the boats were arrested
by the ice in a little bay to which the name of Boat
ilaven was given, situate about three miles from Frank-
lin's farthest, llere the boats lingered for the best
l)art of a month, in utter hopelessness. Mr. Simpson
l)ushed on therefore on the 20tli, with an exploring party
of seven men, provisioned for ten days. On the first
day they passed Point Turnagain, the limit of Frank-
lin's survey in 1821. On the 23d they had reached an
elevated cape, with land apparently closing all round
to the northward, so that it was feared they had only
licen traversing the coast of a huge bay. But the
l)erseverance of the adventurous explorer was fully re-
warded.

"AVith bitter disappointment," writes Mr. Simpson,
" 1 ascended the height, from whence a vast and splen-
did prospect burst suddenly upon me. The sea, as if
transformed by enchantment, rolled '■ ; tierce waves at
my feet, and beyond the reach of vision o the eastwai-d,
Islands of various shape and size overspread its surface ;
and the northern land tenninated to the eye in a bold
and lofty cape, bearing east northejist, thirty or forty-
miles distant, while the continental coast trended away
suntheast. I stood, in fact, on a remarkable headland,
at the eastern outlet of an ice-obstructe<l strait. On the
extensive land to the northward I bestowed the name
of our most gracious sovereign Queen Victoria. Its
eastern visible extremity I called Cape Pelly, in com-
pliment to the governor of Hudson's Bay Company."

Having reached the limits which prudence, dictated
in the face of the long journey back to the boats, many
of his men too being lame, Mr. Simpson retraced his
eteps, and the party reached Boat-haven on the 20th of
August, having traced nearly 140 miles of new coast.

190

rUCKJKIiSS OK AKCriC IHSCOVKKY.

The boats were cut out of tlieir icy prison, and com
nienced their re-ascent of the Coj)i)ernilne on tlie 3il oi
September. At its junction with the Kendal lliver thvy
lett their boats, and shouldering their packs, traversed
the barren grounds, and arrived at their resilience on
tlic lake l)y the 14tii of September.

The following season these persevering' explorers com-
menced tiieir tliird voyage. Thev readied the lilomly
Fall on the 22d of June, 1839, and occupied themselves
for a week in carefully examining liichardson's llivt r,
which was discovered in the previous year, and dis-
charges itself in the head of Back's Inlet. On the od
of July they reached Cape Barrow, and from its rocky
lieights were surprised to observe Coronation Gulf
almost clear of ice, while on their former visit it could
have been crossed on tb(.»t.

They were at Cape Franklin a month earlier than
Mr. Simpson reached it on foot tlio ])revion8 year, and
doubled Cape Alexander, the northennnost cape in this
quarter, on the 28th of July, after encountering a vio-
lent gale. They coasted the huge bay extending i'vv
about nine degrees eastw^ard from this point, being fa-
vored with clear weather, and protectecl by the various
islands they met from the crushing state of the i<*e
drifted from seaward.

On the 10th of August they opened a strait about
ten miles wide at each extremity, but narrowing to lour
or five miles in the center. This strait, which divides
the main-land from Boothia, has been called Simpson's
Strait.

On the 13th of Augiist they had passed Richardson's
Point and doid3led Point Ogle, the furthest point of
Back's journey in 1834.

By the 16th they had reached Montreal Island in
Back's Estnary, where they found a deposit of ]iro-
visions which Captain Back bad left there that day li\ o
years. The pemmican was unlit tor use, but out of
several pounds of chocolate half decayed the men con-
trived to pick sufficient to make a kettleful acceptable
drink in honor of the occasion. There were also a tin

DEASK AND SIMI'SON 8 D1SCOVEUIE8.

191

cape and a few fifih-liooks, of wliich, observes Mr.
Simpson, "AFr. Dcaso and I took ptKSsessiun, as memo-
rials of our Ijavinp^ breakfasted on the very spot wliero
the tent of our gallant, thcjugh less successful precursor
stood that very day live years before.

By the 20th of August they had reached as far as
Aberdeen Island to the eastward, from which they had
a view of an apparently large gulf, corresponding with
that which hacf been so correctly described to Parry by
the intelligent Esquimaux female as Akkolec.

From a mcuntamous ridge about thuce miles inland
a view of la'tA in the northeast was obtained supposed
to be one of the southern promontories of Boothia.
Iligli and distant islands stretching from E. to E. N. E.
(prol)ab]y some in Committee Bay) were seen, and two
cunsidera'olc ones were noted far out in the offing.
Remembering the length and difficulty of their return
route, the explorera now retraced their steps. On their
return voyage they traced sixty miles of the south coast
of Boothia, where at one time they were not more than
ninety miles from the site of the magnetic pole, as de-
termined by Captain Sir James C. Ross. On the 25th
of August they erected a high cairn at their farthest
point, near Cape Ilerscliel.

About 150 miles of the high, bold shores of Victoria
Land, as far as Ca])e Parry, were also examined;
AVellington, Cambridge, and Byron Bays being sur-
veyed and accurately laid down. They then stretched
across Coronation Gulf, and re-entered the Copper-
mine River on the IGth of September.

Abandoning here one of their boats, with the re-
mains of their useless stores and other articles not
required, they ascended the river and reached Fort
Confidence on the 24th of September, after one of the
longest and most successful boat voyages ever per-
formed on the Polar Sea, having traversed more than
1600 miles of sea.

In 1838, before the intelligence of this last trip
had been received, Mr. Simpson was presented by
the Royal Geographical Society of London with the

192

rkOOKEbS OF AKCTIC DItJCOVKUY.

F(nmder'fl Gold Medal, for diHcovcring and tracing lu
1837 and 1838 about 300 miles of tlie arctic chorea;
but the voyage which I have just recorded has added
greatly to the laurels which ho and his bold compan-
ions have achieved.

Dr. Joun Rae's Land Expedition, 18-16^7.

Althouoii a little out of its chronological order, I
give Dr. Kao's exjiloring trip before I proceed to no-
tice ' Franklin's last voyage, and the different relief
expeditions that have been sent out during the past
two years.

In 1846 the Hudson's Company dispatched an ex-
pedition of thirteen persons, under the command of
Dr. John Rae, for the purpose of surveying the unex-
plored portion of the arctic coast at the northeastern
angle of the American continent between Dease and
Simpson's farthest, and the Strait of the Fury and
llecla.

The expedition left Fort Churchill, in Hudson's
Bay, on the 5th of July, 1846, and returned in safety
to York Factory on the 6th September in the follow-
ing year, after having, by traveling over ice and snow
in the spring, traced the coast all the way from the
Lord Mayor's Bay of Sir John Ross to within eight
or ten miles of the Fury and Ilecla Strait, thus prov-
ing that eminent navigator to have been correct in
stating Boothia to be a peninsula.

On the 15t}i of July the boats first fell in with the
ice, about ten miles north of Cape Fullerton, and it
was so heavy and closely packed that they were
obliged to take shelter in a deep and narrow inlet
that opportunely presented itself, where they were
closed up two days.

On the 22d the party reached the most southerly
opening of Wager River or Bay, but were detained
the whole day by the immense quantities of heavy ice
driving in and out with the flood and ebb of the tide,
which ran at the rate of eight miles an hour, forcing up

DR. JUIIN KAL8 LAND KXTKIU'lION.

11)3

the ico "and i]^rin(lin<^ it n'^ainst tho rocks witli a noiao
like thunder. )n the nij^lit of tho 'J4lh tlie bouts
nncliorcd at tlio head «)t'the Uc])ulHe Ihiy. The tullow-
ing day they anchored in Gibson's Cove, on the banks
ot* which they met with a small party of Ktj(|uiinaux ;
several of the women woro beacis round tlieir wrists,
which thev had obtained from Captain J'arry's sliip
when at Igloolik and Winter Island, liut they iiad
neither heard nor seen anything of Sir .l<»hn Franklin. •

Learning from a chart drawn by one of the natives,
that the istlimus of Melville peninsula was only about
forty miles across, and that of this, owing to a nuniljer
of large lakes, but live miles of land would have to be
passed over. Dr. Kao determined to make his way
over this neck in preference to proceeding by I jx's
Channel through the Fury and Ilecla Strait.

One boat was therefore laid up with her cargo in
security, and with the other the party set out, assisted
by three Esquimaux. After traversing several large
lakes, and crossing over six " portages," on the 2d of
August they got into tho salt water, in Committee
Bay, but being able to make but little progress to tho
northwest, in consequence of heavy gales and closely
packed ice, he returned to his starting point, and made
preparations for wintering, it being found impossible
to proceed with the survey at that time. The other
boat was brought across the isthmus, and all hands
were set to work in making preparations for a long
and cold winter.

As no wood was to be had, stones were collected to
build a house, which was finished by the 2d of Sep-
tember. Its dimensions were twenty feet by fourteen,
and about eight feet high. The roof was formed of
oil-cloths and morse-skin coverings, the masts and
oars of the boats serving as rafters, while the door
was made of parchment skins stretched over a wooden
frame.

The deer had already commenced migrating south-
ward, but whenever he had leisure, Dr. Eae shoul-
dered his rifle, and had frequently good success, shoot-

«i

I .'

' i

194

PKOORESS OF AUCJTIC DISCOVERY.

'') '

ing on one day seven deer within two miles of their
encampment.

On the 16th of October, the thermometer fell to
zero, and the greater part of the reindeer had passed ;
but the party uad by this time shot 130, and during
the remainder of Ociober, and in November, thirty-
two more were killed, so that with 200 partridges and
a few salmon, their snow-built larder was pretty well
stocked.

Suj0icient fuel had been collected to last, with econ-
omy, for cooking, until the spring ; and a couple of
seals which had been shot produced oil enough for
their lamps. By nets set in the lakes under the ice, a
few salmon were also caught.

After passing a very stormy winter, with the tem-
perature occasionally 47° below freezing point, and
often an allowance of but one meal a day, toward the
end of February preparations for resuming their sur-
veys in the spring were made. Sleds, simuar to those
used by the natives, were constructed. In the begin-
ning 01 March the reindeer began to migrate north-
ward, but were very shv. One was shot on the 11th.
Dr. Rae set out on the 6th of April, in company
with three men and two Esquimaux as interpreters,
their provisions and bedding being drawn on sleds by
four dogs. Nothing worthy of notice occurs in this
exploratory trip, till on the 18th Kae came in sight of
Lord Mayor's Bay, and the group of islands with which
it is studded. The isthmus which connects the land
to the northward with Boothia, he found to be only about
a mile broad. On their return the party fortunately fell
in with four Esquimaux, from whom they obtained a
quantity of seal's blubber for fuel and dog's food, and
some of the flesh and blood for their own use, enough
to maintain them for six days on half allowance.

All the party were more or less affected with snow
blindness, but arrived at their winter quarters in Re-
pulse Bay on the 6th of May, all safe and well, but as
black as negroes, from the combined effects of frost-
bites and oil smoke.

L . ^^

;iO)

DR. JOHN KAKS LAND KXPEDITION.

195

On the evening of the 13th Ma}-, Dr. Rao again
started with a cliosen party of four men, to trace the
west shore of Melville peninsula. Each of the men
carried about 70 lbs. weight.

Being unable to obtain a drop of water of nature's
thawing, and fuel being rather a scarce article, they
were obliged to take small kettles of snow under the
blankets with them, to thaw by the heat of the body.

Having reached to about 69° 42' N. lat., and 85° 8'
long., and their provisions being nearly exhausted,
they were obliged, much to their disappointment, to
turn back, when only within a few miles of the Hecla
and Fury Strait. Early on the morning of the 30th
of May, the party arrived at their snow hut on Cape
Thomas Simpson. The men they had left there were
well, but very thin, as they had neither caught nor
shot any thing eatable, except two marmots, and they
were preparing to cook a piece of parchment skin for
their supper.

" Our journey," says Dr. Rae, " hitherto had been
the most fatiguing I had ever experienced ; the severe
exercise, with a limited allowance of food, had reduced
the whole party very much. However, we marched
merrily c.i, tightening our belts — mine came in six
inches — the men vowing that when they got on full
allowance, they would make up for lost time."

On the morning of the 9th of June, they arrived at
their encampment in Repulse Bay, after being absent
twenty-seven days. The whole party then set actively
to work procuring food, collecting fuel, and preparing
the boats for sea ; and the ice in the bay having broken
up on the 11th of August, on the 12th they left their
winter quarters, and after encountering head winds
and stormy weather, reached Churchill River on the
31st of August.

A gratuity of 4:001. was awarded to Mr. Rae, by the
Hudson's Bay Company, for the important services he
had thus rendered to the cause of science.

v.:

111

19G

PKOGRKSS OK AKCTIC ]>IbCOVKKV

Captain Sir John Frank lin's Last Expedition,

1845-51.

That Sir John Franklin, now nearly six years ab-
sent, is alive, we dare not affirm ; bnt that his ships
should be so utterly annihilated that no trace of them
can be discovered, or if they have been so entirely
lost, that not a single life should have been saved to
relate the disaster, and that no traces of the crew or
vessels should have been met with by the Esquimaux,
or the exploring parties who have visited ana investi-
gated those coasts, and bays, and inlets to so consid-
erable an extent, is a most extraordinary circumstance.
It is the general belief of those officers who have
served in the former arctic expeditions, that whatever
accident may have befallen the Erebus and Terror,
they cannot wholly have disappeared from those seas,
and that some traces of their fale, if not some living
remnant of their crews, must eventually reward the
search of the diligent investigator. It is possible that
they may be found in quartei*s the least expected.
There is stil] reason, then, for hoj^e^ and for the great
and honorable exertions which that divine spark in
the soul has prompted and still keeps alive.

"There is something," says the Athenseum, "in-
■lensely interesting in the picture of those dreary seas
amid whose strange and unspeakable solitudes our lost
countrymen are, or have been, somewhere imprisoned
for so many years, swarming with the human life that
is risked to set them free. No haunt was ever so ex-
citing — so full of a wild grandeur and a profound
pathos — as that which had just aroused the arctic
echoes ; that wherein their brothers and companions
have been beating for the track by which they may
rescue the lost mariners from the icy grasp of the Ge-
nius of the North. Fancy these men in their adaman
tine prison, wherever it may be, — chained up by tha
polar spirit whom they had dared, — lingering through
years of cold and darkness on the stinted ration that
scarcely feeds the blood, and the feeble hope that

■%

fkanklin's last expedition.

197

scarcely sustains the heart, — and then imagine the rush
of emotions to greet the first cty from that wild hunting
ground which should reach their ears ! Through many
Kummers has that cry been listened tor, no doubt.
Something like an expectation of the rescue which it
should announce has revived with each returning sea-
fion of comparative light, to die of its own baffled in-
tensity as the long dark monlJis once more settled down
upon their dreary prison-house. — There is scarcely a
doubt that the track being now struck, these long-
])ining hearts may be traced to their lair. But what to
the anxious questioning which has year by. year gone
forth in search of their fate, will be the answer now
revealed ? The trail is found, — but what of the weary
feet that made it? We are not willing needlessly to
alarm the public sympathies, which have been so gene-
rously stirred on behalf of the missing men, — but we
are bound to warn our readers against too sanguine an
entertainment of the hope which the first tidings of the
recent discovery is calculated to suggest. It is scarcely
possible that the provisions which are sufficient for three
years, and adaptable for four, can by any economy
which implies less than starvation have been spread
over five, — and scarcely probable that thev can have
Ijeen made to do so by the help of any accidents which
the place of confinement supplied. We cannot hear of
this sudden discovery of traces of the vanished crews as

living

men, without a wish which comes like a

pang

that it had been two years ago — or even last year. It
makes the heart sore to think how close relief may have
been to their hiding-place in former years — when it
turned away. There is scarcely reason to doubt that
had the present circumstances of the search occurred
two years ago — last year perhaps — the wanderers
would have been restored. Another year makes a
frightful diflference in the odds : — and we do not think
the public will ever feel satisfied with what has been
dene in this matter if the oracle so long questioned, and
silent so long, shall speak at last — and the answer shall
be, * It is too late.' "

-1

!"-

J -

198

TROGEESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

It W

In the prosecution of the noble enterprise on which
all eyes are now turned, it is not merely scientific re-
search and geographical discovery that are at present
occupying the attention of the commanders of vessels
Bent out ; the lives of human beinss are at stake, and
abojpB all, the lives of men who nave nobly periled
every thing in the cause of national — nay, of universal
progress and knowledge ; — .of men who have evinced
on this and other expeditions the most dauntless bra-
very that any men can evince. Who can think of the
probable fate of these gallant adventurers without a
shudder?

Alas I how truthfully has Montgomery depicted the
fatal imprisonment of vessels in these regions : —

There lies a vessel in that realm of frost.
Not wrecked, not stranded, yet forever lost ;
Its keel embedded in the soUd mass ;
Its glistening sails appear expanded glass ;
The transverse ro{)es with pearls enormous strongs
The yards with icicles grotesquely hung.
Wrapt in the topmast shrouds there rests a boy.
His old sea-fEuing father's only joy ;
Sprune' from a race of rovers, ocean bom, . ^

Nursed at the helm, he trod dry land widi scorn ,
Through foui-score years from port to port he ve^d ;
Quicksand, nor rock, nor foe, nor tempest fear'd ;
Now cast ashore, though like a hulk he lie,
His son at sea is ever m his eye.
He ne'er shall know in his Northumbrian cot,
How bi-ief that son's career, how strange his lot ;
Writhed round the mast^ aud sepulchrra in air.
Him shall no worm devour, no vulture tear ;
Congeal'd to adamant his frame shall last,
Though empires change, till tide and time be past
Mom shall return, and noon, and eve, and night
Meet here with interchanging shade and light ;
But from that barque no timber shall decay,
Of these cold forms no feature pass away ; '

Perennial ice around th» encrusted bow.
The peoplcd-deck, and fuU-rigg'd mast shall grow
Till from the sun himself the whole be hid.
Or spied beneath a crystal pyramid : «.

As in pure amber with divergent lines, v

A mgged shell embossed with sea-weeid, shines^
From age to ago increased with annual snow.
This now Mont Blane among the clouds may glow,
Whose conic peak that earliest greets the dawn.
And latest from the sun's shut* eye withdrawn,

FRANiaJN's LAST EXPEDITION.

199

Shall from the Zenith, tlirough incumbent gloom,
Burn like a lump upon this naval tomb.
But when th' archangel's trumpet sounds on high,
The pile sliall burst tu atoms through the sky,
And leave its dead, upstarting at the call.
Naked and pale, before the Judge of alL

All who read these pages will, I am sure, feel the
deepest sympathy and admiration of the zeal, persever-
ance, and conjugal aiiection displayed in the noble and
untiring efforts of Lady Franklin to relieve or to dis-
cover the fate of her distinguished husband and the gal-
lant party under his command, despite the difficulties,
disappointments, and heart-sickening "hope deferred"
with which these efforts have been attended. All men
must feel a lively interest in the fate of these bold men,
and be most desirous to contribute toward their resto-
ration to their country and their homes. The name of
the present Lady Franklin is as "familiar as a house-
hold word " in every bosom in England ; she is alike
the object of our admiration, our sympathy, our hopes,
and our prayers. Nay, her name and that of her hus-
band is breathed in prayer in many lands — and, oh!
how earnest, how zealous, how courageous, have been
her efforts to find and relieve her husband, for, like
Desdemona,

" She loved him for the dangers he had passed.
And he loved her that she did pity them."

IIow has she traversed from port to port, bidding " God
epeed their mission " to each public and private ship
going forth on the noble errand of mercy — how freely
and promptly has she contributed to their comforts.
IIow has she watched each arrival from the north,
scanned each stray paragraph of news, hurried to the
Admiralty on each rumor, and kept up with unremit-
ting labor a voluminous correspondence with all the
quarters of the globe, fondly wishing that she had tho
wings of the dove, that she might flee away, and be
with him from whom Heaven has seen tit to separate
her so long.

An American poet well depicts her sentiments in tliQ
foJV)winff lines : —

U 1

200

VliOOUKSS OF AUCriC DISCOVKUY.

ill

LADY FRANKLIN'S APPEAL TO THE NORTH.

Oh, whero, my long lost-oiio I nrt thou,

'Mid Arctic seas iind wintry skiofl ?
Deep, Polar night in on me now,

And Hope, long wrcckutl, but mocks my orui
I am like tnev 1 from frozen plainH

In the drcnr zone and muilewi air.
My dying, lonely heart complainH,

And chills in sorrow and despair.

Tell me, ye Northern winds I that sweep

Down from the rayless, dusky day —
Where ye have borne, and whero ye keep.

My well-beloved within your sway ;
Tell me, when next y^ wildly bear

The icy message in your breath,
Of my beloved I Oh toll me where

Te keep him on the shores of death.

Toll me, ye Pokr seas I that roll

From ice-bound shore to sunny isle —
Tell me, when next ye leave the Pole,

Where ye have chained ray lord the while I
On the bleak Northern cliff I wait

With tear-pained eyes to see ye come I
Will ye not tell me, ere too late ?

Or will ye mock while I am dumb ?

Tell me, oh tell me, mountain waves I

Whence have ye leaped and sprung to-day f
Have ye passed o'er their sleeping graves

That ye nish wildly on your way ?
Will ye sweep on and bear me too

Down to the caves within the deep ?
Oh, bring some token to my view

That ye my loved one safe will keepl

Canst thou not toll me. Polar Star I

Where in the frozen waste he kneels T
And on the icy plains afar

His love to Qod and me reveals T
Wilt thou not send one brighter ray

To my lone heart and aching eye ?
Wilt thou not turn my night to day.

And wake my spint ere I die ?

Tell me, oh dreary North I for now

My soul is like thine Arctic zone ;
Beneath the darkened skies I bow;

Or ride the stonny sea alone I
Tell me of my beloved ! for I

Know not a ray my lord without !
Oh, tell me, that I may not die

A sorrower on the sea of doubt !

-A^"^^

-k«';_iL£-..4-.i.-..-

FRANKLIN 8 LAST EXPEDITION.

201

In tlio earl^ part of 1849, Sir E. Parry stated, tlmJ
in oficring his opinions, lie did so under a deep sensc
of the anxious and even painful responsiMlity, ooth at?
rcf^arded the risk of life, as well as the inferior coiisid
(^ration of expense involved in further attempts to res
cue our gallant countrymen, or at least the surviving
])ortion of them, from their perilous position.

But it was his deliberate conviction, that the time
1 1 ad not yet arrived when the attempt ought to be given
up as hopeless : the further efforts making might also
be the means of determining their fate, and whether it

})loa8ed God to give success to those effort* or not, the
^ords of the Admiralty, and the country at large, would
hereatler be better satisfied to have followed up the
noble attempts already made, so long as the most dis-
tant hope remains of ultimate success.

In the absence of authentic information of the fate
of the gallant band of adventurers, it has been well
observed, the terra incognita of the northern coast of
Arctic America, will not only be traced, but minutely
surveyed, and the solution of the probleii of centuries
will engage the marked attention of the House of Com-
mons, and the legislative assemblies of other parts of
the world. The problem is very safe in their hands, so
safe indeed that two years will not elapse before it is
solved.

The intense anxiety and apprehension now so gener-
ally entertained for the safety of Sir John Franklin,
ond the crews of the Erebus and Terror, under his com-
mand, who, if still in existence, are now passing through
the severe ordeal of a fifth winter, in those inclement
regions, imperatively call for every available effort to
be made for their rescue from a position so perilous ;
and as long as one possible avenue to that position re-
mains unsearched, the country will not feel satisfied
that every thing has been done, which perseverance
and experience can accomplish, to dispel the mystery
which at present surrounds their fate.

Capt. Sir James Ross having returned successful from
\»ifi antarctic expedition in the close of the preceding

202

I'ROGIiESS OF AKCmu lUSCOVEUY.

year, in tbo spring of 1845, the Lords Commissioners
of tlio Admiralty, upon the recommendation of Sir
John Barrow, determmed on sending out another ex-
pedition to the North Pole.

Accordingly the command was given to Sir John
Franklin, who re-commissioned the Erebus and Terror,
the two vessels which had just returned from the South
Polar Seas. The expedition sailed from Sheemess on
the 20th of May, 1845. The following are the officers
helqnging to these vessels, and for whose safety so deep
an interest is now felt : —

Erebus,

» Captain — Sir John Franklin, K. C. H.
Commander — James Fitzjames, (Capt.)
Lieutenants — Graham Gore, (Commander,) Henry

T. D. Le Vesconte, James William Fairholme.
Mates — Chas. F. des Yaux, (Lieut.,) Kobert O'Sar-

gent, (Lieut.)
Second Master — Henry F. Collins.
Surgeon — Stephen S. Stanley.
Assistant-Surgeon — Harry D. S. Goodsir, (acting.)
Paymaster and Purser — Chas. H. Osmer.
Ice-master — James Reid, acting.
68 Petty Officers, Seamen, &c.

Full Complement, 70.

Terror.

Captain — Fras. B. M. Crozier.

Lieutenants — Edward Little, (Commander,) Geo. H.

Hodgson, John Irving.
^ Mates — Frederick J. Hornby, (Lieutenant,) Robert

Thomas, (Lieut.)
Ice-master — T. Blanky, ^acting.)
Second Master — G.A.Maclean.
Surgeon — John S. Peddie. ''i^

Assistant-Surgeon — Alexander McDonald.
Clerk in Charge — Edwin J. H. Helpman.
67 Petty Officers, Seamen, &c.

Full ComplemcTit, 08.

FRANKLIN S LAST EXPEDITION.

203

Those ofticers wlioso rank is within parenthesis have
been promoted during their absence.

The following is an outline of Capt. Franklin's ser-
vices as recorded in O'Hyrne's Naval Biography : —

Sir John Franklin, Kt., K. K. (I., K. C. 11., J). C. L.,
F. II. S., was born in 1780, at Spilsby, in Lincolnshire,
and is brother of the late Sir W. Franklin, Kt, Chief
Justice of Madras. lie entered the navy in October,
1800, as a boy on board the Polyphemus, 64, Captain
John Lawford, under whom he served as midshiinniin
in the action oft* Copenhagen, 2d of April, 1801. He
tlien sailed with Captain Flinders, in II. M. sloop In-
vestigator, on a voyage of discovery to New Holland,
joining there the armed store-ship Porpoise ; he was
wrecked on a coral reef near Cato Bank on the 17th of
August, 1803. I shall not follow him through all his
subsequent period of active naval service, in which ho
displayed conspicuous zeal and activity. But we find
him taking part at the battle of Trafalgar, on the 21st
of October, 1805, on board the Bellerophoh, where he
was signal midshipman. He was connrmed as Lieu-
tenant, on board the Bedford, 74, 11th of February,
1808, and he then escorted the royal family of Portugal,
from Lisbon to South America. He was engaged in
very arduous services during the expedition against
New Orleans, in the close of 1814, and was slightly
wounded in boat service, and for his brilliant services on
this occasion, was warmly and officially recommended
for promotion. On the 14th of January, 1818, he as-
sumed command of the hired brig Trent, in which he
accompanied Captain D. Buchan, of the Dorothea, on
the perilous voyage of discovery to the neighborhood
of Spitzbergen, which I have fully recorded elsewhere.
In April, 1819, having paid off the Trent in the pre-
ceding November, he was invested with the conduct
of an expedition destined to proceed overland from the
shores of Hudson's Bay, for the purpose more particu-
larly of ascertaining the actual position of the mouth
of the Coppermine Kiver, and the exact trending of the
shores of the Polar Sea, to the eastward of that river.

I
'^

ii' i

111!'

Ill

204

PROOUKSS OF ARCTIC DISCOVEUY.

The details of this fearful undertaking, which en-
dured until the sunnner of 1822, and in tne courfie of
wliicii, he reached as far as Point Turnagain, in latitude
(58° ID' N., and longitude 100° 25' W., and effected a
journey altogether of 5550 miles, Captain Franklin
lias ably set forth in his "l^arrative of a Journey to
the Shores of the Polar Sea, in the year 1819-22," and
which I have abridged in preceding pages. He was
promoted to the rank of Commander, on the Ist of
January, 1821, and reached his post rank on the 20th
of November, 1822. On the 16th of February, 1825,
this energetic officer again left England on another ex-
pedition to the Frozen Regions, having for its object a
co-operation with Captains F. W. Beechey, and W. E.
Parry, in ascertaining from opposite quarters the ex-
istence of a northwest passage. The results of this
mission will be found in detad in Captain Franklin's
"Narrative of a Second Expedition to the Shores of the
Polar Sea, in 1825-7."

On his return to England, where he an'ived on the
26th of Sept., 1827, Franklin was presented by the
Geographical Society of Paris, with a gold medal val-
ued at 1200 francs, tor having made the most important
acquisitions to geographical knowledge during the pre-
ceding year, and on the 29th of April, 1829, he received
the honor of knighthood, besides being awarded in July
following the Oxford degree of a D. C. L.

From 1830 to 1834, he was in active service in com-
mand of H. M. S. Rainbow, on the Mediterranean sta-
tion, and for his exertions during that period as con-
nected with the troubles in Greece, was presented with
the order of the Redeemer of Greece. Sir John was
created a K. 0. H. on the 25th of January, 1836, and
was for some time Governor of Yan Diemen's Land.
He married, on the 16th of August, 1823, Eleanor
Anne, youngest daughter of W. Porden, Esq., architect,
of Bemers Street, London, and secondly, on the 6th of
November, 1828, Jane, second daughter of John Grif-
fin, Esq., of Bedford Place.

Captain Crozier was in all Parry's expeditions, hav-

IKANKMNS LAST KXl'MIHTION.

ii()5

mrr 1)0011 inldsliipman in tlic Fury in 1S21, in tlio
Jlocla ill 18:^4, went out as Lieutenant in the Jlocia,
with Parry, on liis boat expedition to the Pole in IS27,
volunteered in 1830 to go out in Hoarch of the nii^ssing
whalers and their crews to Davis' Straits, was made a
Captain in 1841, and was second in command of the
antarctic exj^edition under Sir James lloss, and on his
return, appointed to the Terror, as second in command
under Franklin.

Lieutenant Gore served as a mate in the last fearful
voyage of the Terror, under Back, and was also with
Ivoss in the antarctic expedition, lie has attained his
commander's rank during bis absence.

Lieutenant Fairholme was in the Niger expedition.

Lieutenant Little has also been promoted during his
absence, and so have all the mates.

Commander Fitzjames is a brave and gallant officer,
who has seen much service in the East, and has attained
to his post rank since his departure.

The Terror, it may be remembered, is the vessel in
which Captain Sir G. Back made his perilous attempt
to reach Kepulse Bay, in 1836.

The Erebus and Terror were not expected home un-
less success had early rewarded their efforts, or some
tjasualty hastened their return, before the close of 1847,
nor were any tidings anticipated from them in the in-
terval ; but when tne autumn of 1847 arrived, without
any intelligence of the ships, the attention of H. M.
Government was directed to the necessity of searching
for, and conveying relief to them, in case of their being
imprisoned in the ice, or wrecked, and in want of pro-
visions and means of transport.

For this purpose a searching expedition in three
divisions was fitted out by the government, in the early
part of 1848. The investigation was directed to three
different quarters simultaneously, viz : 1st, to that by
which, in case of success, the ships would come out of
tlie Polar Sea, to the westward, or Behring's Straits.
This consisted of a single ship, the Plover, commanded
by Captain Moore, which left England in the latter end

'111

200

rKOOUKSS OF AKCTIO lUSCOVKKY.

)i :

% i

(»t' January, for tlie purpose of cnterin^jf IJehrin^'d Strait.
It was inteiided tliat hIic should arrive tliere in the
niontli of July, and having looked out for a winter har-
lior, Hhe nii«^lit send out her boats northward and east-
ward, in which directions the discovery ships, if suc-
cessful, would be met with. The Plover, however, in
lier lirnt season, never even approached the place of her
destination, owing to her setting oif too late, and to her
bad sailing properties.

Jler subsequent proceedings, and those of her boats
along the coast, will be found narrated in after pages.

The second division of the expedition was one of
boats, to explore the coast of the Arctic Sea between
the Mackenzie and Coppermine llivers, or from the
135th to the 115th degree of \V. longitude, together
with the south coast of Wollaston Land, it being sup-
posed, that if Sir John Franklin's party had been com-
pelled to leave the ships and take to the boats, they
would make for this coast, whence they could reach the
Hudson's Bay Company's posts. This party was placed
under the commana of the faithful friend of Franklin,
and the companion of his former travels. Dr. Sir John
Kichardson, who landed at New York in April, 1848,
and hastened to join his men and boats, wliich were
already in advance toward the arctic shore. He was,
liowever, unsuccessful in his search.

The remaining and most important portion of this
searching expedition consisted of two snips under the
command of Sir James Ross, which sailed in May, 1848,
for the locality in which Franklin's ships entered on
this course of discovery, viz., the eastern side of Davis'
Straits. These did not, however, succeed, owing to the
state of the ice in getting into Lancaster Sound until
the season for operations had nearly closed. These ships
wintered in the neighborhood of Leopold Island, Regent
Inlet, and missing the store-ship sent out with pro-
visions and fuel, to enable them to stop out another
year, were driven out through the Strait by the pack
of ice, and returned home unsuccessful. The subse-
quent expeditions consequent upon the failure of the

--J^*'-^ ---^ .'^^i^j; -■:£— ■: -^ -

FIJANKLJN - L\fiT KXPliDITlON.

iior

foregoing ^ ill l)o I'ouikI tiilly detailed and narrated in
tiicir i)roper order.

Among the niuiil)er of voluntoefs for the service of
exploration, in thedilierent searching expeditions, were

respectability.

Till) llov. Joseph Wolff, who went to Bokhara in
search of Capt. Conolly and Col. Stoddart.

Mr. John McLean, who had passed twenty-five years
as an otlicer and partner of the iludson's Bay Company,
and who has recently published an interesting narra-
tive of his experience in the northwest regions.

Dr. Kicharu King, who accompanied Capt. Back in
his land journey to the mouth of the Great Fish Kiver.

Lieut. Sherard Osborn, R. N., who had recently gone
out in the Pioneer, tender to the Resolute.

Commander Forsyth, R. N., who volunteered for all
the expeditious, and was at last sent out by Lady Frank-
lin in the Prince Albert.

Dr. McCormick, R. N., who served under Captain Sir
E. Parry, in the attempt to reach the North Polo, in 1827,
wlio twice previously volunteered his services in 1847.

Capt. Sir John Ross, who has gone out in the Felix,
fitted out bv the Iludson's Bay Company, and by pri-
vate subscriptions ; and many others.

Up to the present time no intelligence of any kind
has oeen received respecting the expedition, and its
fate is now exciting the most intense anxiety, not only
on the part of the British government and public, but
of the whole civilized world. The maratime powers of
Europe and the United States are vying with each other
as to who shall be the first to discover some trace of the
aiissing navigators, and if they be still alive, to render
#hem assistance. The Hudson's Bay Company have,
with a noble liberality, placed all their available re-
sources of men, provisions, and the services of their
chief and most experienced traders, at the disposal of
government. The Russian authorities have also given

ft,

! i

208

PKOOBESS OF ARCTIC' DISCOVERY.

. !i!!3li
'4

every facility for diifusing information and aftbrding
assistance in their territories.

In a letter from Sir John Franklin to Colonel Sabine,
dated from the Whale Fish Islands, 9th of July, 1845,
alter noticing that, including what they had received
from the transport which had accompanied them so far,
tlie Erebus and '^error had on board provisions, fuel,
clothing and stores for three years complete from that
date, i. e. to July, 1848, he continues as follows: — "I
hope my dear wite and daughter will not be over-anxious
if we should not return by the time they have fixed upon;
and I must beg' of you to give them the benefit of your
advice and experience when that arrives, for you know
well, that even after the second winter, without success
in our object, we should wish to try some other channel,
if the state of our provisions, and the health of the
crews justify it.

Capt. Dannett, of the whaler. Prince of "Wales, while
in Melville Bay, last saw the vessels of the expedition,
moored to an iceberg, on the 26th of July, in lat. 74°
48' N., long. GG^ 13' W., waiting for a favorable open-
ing through the middle ice from Baflin's Bay to Lancas-
ter Sound. Capt. Dannett states that during three weeks
after parting company with the ships, he experienced
very fine weather, and thinks they would have made
good progress.

Lieut. Grifiith, in command of the transport which
accompanied them out with provisions to Baffin's Bay,
reports that he left all hands well and in high spirits.
They were then furnished, he adds, with every species
of provisions for three entire years, independently of
five bullocks, and stores of every description for the
same period, with abundance of fuel. •

The following is Sir John Franklin's official letter
sent home by the transport : —

" ITer Majesty^ 8 Ship * Erebus^
«< Whale-Fish Islands, 12th of July, 1845.

" I have the honor to acquaint you, for the informa-
tion of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, that

FBANKLLN 6 LAST EXPEDITION.

209

letter

846.

^rma-
that

her Majesty's ships Erebus and Terror, with the trans-
port, arrived at this anchorage on the 4th instant, hav-
ing had a passage of one month from Stromness : the
transport was immediately taken alongside this ship,
that she might be the more readily cleared ; and we
have been constantly employed at that operation till
last evening, the delay having been caused not so
much in getting the stores transferred to either of the
sliips, as in making the best stowage of them below,
as well as on the upper deck ; the ships are now com-
])lete with supplies of every kind for three years; they
are therefore very deep; but, happily, we have no
reason to expect much sea as we proceed farther.

" The magnetic instruments were landed the same
morning ; so also were the other instruments requisite
for ascertaining the position of the observatory ; and
it is satisfactory to find that the result of the observa-
tions for latitude and longitude accord very nearly
with those assigned to the same place by Sir Edward
Parry; those for the dip and variation are equally sat-
isfixctory, which were made by Captain Crozier with
the instruments belonging to the Terror, and by Com-
mander Fitzjames with those of the Erebus.

" The ships are now being swung, for the purpose
of ascertaining the dip and deviation of the needle on
board, as was done at Greenhithe, which, I trust, will
be completed this afternoon, and I hope to be able to
sail in the night.

"The governor and principal persons are at this
time absent from Disco, so that I have not been able
to receive any communication from head quarters as
to the state of the ice to the north ; I have, however,
learnt from a Danish carpenter in charge of the Es-
quimaux at these islands, that though the winter was
severe, the spring was not later than usual, nor was
the ice later in breaking away hereabout ; he supposes
also that it is now loose as far as 74° latitude, and that
our prospect is favorable of getting across the barrier,
and as far as Lancaster Sound, without much obstruc-
tion.

210

rnOGBESS OF AKCTIC DISCOVERY.

*'Tbe transport will sail for England this day. 1
bIilW instruct the agent, Lieutenant Griffiths, to pro-
ceed to Deptford, and report his arrival to the Secre-
tary of the Admiralty. I have much satisfaction in
bearing my testimony to the careful and zealous man-
ner in which Lieut. Griffiths has performed the service
intrusted to him, and would beg to recommend him,
as an officer who appears to have seen much service,
to the favorable consideration of their lordships.

."It is unnecessary for me to assure their lordships

of the energy and zeal of Captaiii Crozier, Commander

Fitzjames, and of the officers and men with whom I

have the happiness of being employed on this service.

" I have, &c.,

(Signed) John Feanklin, Captain.

"The Eight Hon. H. L. Corry, M. P."

It has often been a matter of surprise that but one
of the copper cylinders which Sir John Franklin was
instructed to throw overboard at stated intervals, to
record his progress, has ever come to hand, but a re-
cent sight of the solitary one which has been received
proves to me that they are utterly useless for the
purpose. A small tube, about the size of an ordi-
nary rocket-case, is hardly ever likely to be observed
among huge masses of ice, and the waves of the At-
lantic and Jracific, unless drifted by accident on shore,
or near some boat. The Admiralt}^ have wisely or-
dered them to be rendered more conspicuous by being
headed up in some cask or barrel, instructions being
issued to Captain Collinson, and other officers of the
different expeditions' to that effect.

According to Sir John Richardson, who was on inti-
mate terms with Sir John Franklin, his plans were to
shape his course in the first instance for the neighbor-
hood of Cape Walker, and to push to the westward in
that parallel, or, if that could not be accomplished, to
make his way southward, to the channel discovered on
the north coast of the continent, and so on to Behring's
Straits ; failing success in that quarter, he meant to re-
trace his course to Wellington Sound, and attempt a

FBANKLIN S LA8T EXl'EDITION.

211

passage northward of Parry's Islands, and if foiled there
also, to descend Kegent Inlet, and seek the passage
along the coast discovered by Messrs. Dease and Simp-
son.

Captain Fitziaraes, the second in command under
Sir John Franklin, was much inclined to try the pas-
sage northward of Parry's Islands, and he would no
doubt endeavor to persuade Sir John to pursue this
course if they failed to the southward.

In a private letter of Captain Fitzjames to Sir John
Barrow, dated January, 1845, he writes as follows : —

" It does not appear clear to me what led Parry down
Prince Regent Inlet, after having got as far as Melville
Island before. Hie northwest passage is certainly to
be gone through by Barrow's Strait, but whether south
or north of Parry 'n Group, remains to be proved. I am
for going north, edging northwest till in longitude 140^,
if possible."

I shall now pro<*.eed to trace, in chronological order
and succession, the opinions and proceedings of the
chief arctic explorers and public authorities, with the
private suggestions offered and notice in detail the re-
lief expeditions resulting therefrom.

In February, 1847, the Lords of the Admiralty state,
that having unlimited confidence in the skill and re-
sources of Sir John Franklin, they " have as yet felt no
apprehensions about his safety ; but on the other hand,
it is obvious, that if no accounts of him should arrive
by the end of this year, or, as Sir John Ross expects, at
an earlier period, active steps must then be taken."

Captain Sir Edward Parry fully concurred in these
views, observing, " Former experience has clearly shown
tliat with the resources taken from this country, two
winters may be passed in the polar regions, not only in
safety, but with comfort ; and if any. inference can be
drawn from the absence of all intelligence of the expe-
dition up to this time, I am disposed to consider it ra-
ther in favor than otherwise of the success which has
attended their effoi-ts."

Captain Sir G. Back, in a letter to the Secretary of

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212

I'KOGliESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

the Admiralty, under date 27th of January, 1848, says,
" I cannot bring myself to entertain more than ordi^
nary anxiety for tlie safety and return of Sir John
Franklin and his gallant companions."

Captain Sir John Ross records, in February, 1847,
his opinion that the expedition was frozen up beyond
Melville Island, from the known intentions of Sir John
Franklin to put his ships into the drift ice at the west-
ern end of Melville Island, a risk which was deemed
in the highest degree imprudent by Lieutenant Parry
and the oflScers of the expedition of 1819-20, with
ships of a less draught of water, and in every respect
better calculated to sustain the pressure of the ice, and
other dangers to which they must be exposed ; and as
it is now well known that the expedition has not suc-
ceeded in passing Behring's Strait, and if not totally
lost, must have been carried by the ice that is known
to drift to the southward on land seen at a great dis-
tance in that direction, and from which the accumu-
lation of ice behind them will, as in Ross's own case,
forever prevent the return of the ships ; consequently
they must be abandoned. When we remember with
what extreme difficulty Ross's party traveled 300 miles
over much smoother ice after they abandoned tl^eir
vessel, it appears very doubtful whether Franklin and
his men, 138 in number, could possibly travel GOQ
miles.

In the contingency of the ships having penetrated
some considerable distance to the southwest of Capo
Walker, and having been hampered and crushed in tho
narrow channels of the Archipelago, which there are
reasons for believing occupies the space between Vic-
toria, Wollaston, and Banks' Lands, it is well re
marked by Sir John Richardson, that such accident?
among ice are seldom so sudden but that the boats of
one or of both ships, with provisions, can be saved ;
and in such an event the survivors would either returc
to Lancaster Strait, or make for the continent, accord
jng to their nearness.

Colonel Sabine remarks, in a letter dated Woolvicl*.

5
ti

V
V

r,.i' ■

FliANKLIN S LAST EXPEDITION.

213

;aj)o
tho

5th of May, 1847,—" It was Sir Jolin Franklin's inten-
tion, if foiled at one point, to try in succession all tho
probable openings into a more navigable part of the
Polar Sea: the range of coast is considerable in which
memorials of the ships' progress would have to be
sought for, extending from Melville Island, in the west,
to the great Sound at the head of Bathn's Bay, in the
east."

Sir John Richardson, when appealed to by the Admi-
ralty in the spring of 1847, as regarded the very strong
apprehensions expressed at that time for the safety of
the expedition, considered they were premature, as tiio
ships were specially equipped to pass two winters in
the Arctic Sea, and until the close of that year, he saw
no well-grounded cause for more anxiety tlian was nat-
urally felt when the expedition sailed from this country
on an enterprise of peril, though not greater than that
which had repeatedly been encountered by others, and
on one occasion by Sir John Ross for two winters also,
but who returned in safety.

Captain Sir James C. Ross, in March, 1847, writes*
"I do not think there is the smallest reason for appre-
hension or anxiety for the safety and success of tiio
expedition ; no one acquainted with the nature of tiie
navigation of the Polar Sea would have expected tluy
would have been able to get through to Behring's Strait
without spending at least two winters in those regions,
except under unusually favorable circumstances, which
all the accounts from the whalers concur in proving
they have not experienced, and I am quite sure neither
Sir John Franklin nor Captain Crozier expected to do so,

"Their last letters to me from Whale Fish Islands,
the day previous to their departure from them infoiin
me that they had taken on board provisions for three
years on full allowance, which they could extend to four
years without any serious inconvenience ; so that we
may feel assured they cannot want from that cause until
after the middle of July, 1849 ; it therefore does not
appear to me at all desirable to send after them until the
spring of the next year." (1848.)

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

In the plan submitted by Captain F. W. Beechey,
R. N., in April, 1847, after premising " that there does
not at present appear to be any reasonable apprehen-
sion for the safety of the expedition," he suggested that
it would perhaps be prudent that a relief expedition
should be sent out that season to Cape Walker, where
information of an important nature would most likely
be found. From this vicinity one vessel could proceed
to examine the various points and headlands in Regent
Inlet, and also those to the northward, while the other
watched the passage, so that Franklin and his party
might not pass unseen, should he be on his return. At
the end of the season the ships could winter at Pork
Bowen, or any other port in the vicinity of Leopold
Island.

" In the spring of 1848," he adds, " a party should bo
directed to explore the coast, down to liecla and Fury
Strait, and to endeavor to communicate with the party
dispatched by the Hudson's Bay Company in that direc-
tion ; and in connection with this part of the arrange-
ment, it would render the plan complete if a boat could
be sent down Back's River to range the coast to the
eastward of its mouth, to meet the above mentioned
party ; and tJius, while it would complete the geography
of that part of the American coast, it would at the same
time complete the line of information as to the extensive
measures of relief which their lordships have set on
foot, and the precise spot where assistance and depots
of provisions are to be found. This part of the plan
has suggested itself to me from a conversation I had
with Su* John Franklin as to his first effort being made
to the westward and southwestward of Cape Walker.
It is possible that, after passing the Cape, he may have
been successful in getting down upop Victoria Land,
and have passed bis first winter (1845) thei-kibout, and
th&t he may have spent his second winter at a still moro
advanced station, and even endured a third, without
either a prospect of success, or of an extrication of his
vessels withii: a given period of time,

" If, in this condition, which I trust may not be Ihe

OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS.

215

lade
Iker.

case, Sir John Franklin should resolve upon taking to
his boats, he would prefer atteniptinj' a boat navigation
through Sir James Koss's Strait, and up Regent Inlet,
to a long land journey across the continent, to the Hud-
son's Bay Settlements, to which the greater part of hiu
crew would be wholly unequal."

Sir John llichardson remarks upon the above sugges-
tions, on the 5th of May, 1847, — " With respect to a
party to be sent down Back's River to the bottom of
Regent Inlet, its size and outlit would require to be
equal with that of the one now preparing -to descend
the Mackenzie River, and it could scarcely with the
utmost exertions be organized so as to start this sum-
mer. The present scarcity of provisions in the Iludsoirs
Bay country precludes the hope of assistance from tho
Company's southern posts, and it is now too late to
provide the means of transport through the interior of
supplies from this country, which require to be embarked
on board the Hudson's Bay ships by the 2d of June at
the latest.

" Moreover there is no Company's post on the line of
Back's River nearer than the junction of Slave River
with Great Slave Lake, and I do not think that under
any circumstances Sir John Franklin would attempt
that route.

" In the summer of 1849, if the resources of the party
I am to conduct remain unimpaired, as I have every
reason to believe they will, much of what Capt. Beechey
suggests in regard to exploring Victoria Land may be
done by it, and indeed ibrms part of the original scheme.
The extent of the examination of any part of the coast
in 1848 depends, as I formerly stated, very much on
the seasons of this autumn and next spring, which influ-
ence the adviuc^e of the boats through a long course of
iviffatidte' As Governor Simpson will most

river navij

likely succeed in procuring an Esquimaux to accom-
pany my party, I nope by his means to obtain such
information from parties of that nation as may greatly
facilitate our finding the ships, should they be detained
in that quarter.

nil

-1. l-i

y','

21fi

PROORESg OF ARCrrO DISCOVERY.

"• Wore Sir John Fi-unklin thrown upon the north
coa 't of tlic continent with his bouts, and all his crew,
1 do not tliink he would utteni[)t the ascent of any river,
except the Mackenzie. It is navi^al)le for boats of largo
draiigiit, without a portage, for 1300 miles from the
sea, or within forty miles of Fort Chipewyan, one of
the Com})any'8 principal depots, and there are five
other posts in that distance. Though these posts could
not furnish provisions to such a party, they could, by
j)r(>viding them with nets, and distributing the men to
vai'ious lishing stations, do much toward procuring food

>r 'iieni.

'• L concur generally in what: Captain Beechey has
said M itli regard to feehring's Straits, a locality witii
whicli lie is so intimately acquainted, but beg leave to
add oiio I'emark, viz : that in high northern latitudes
the i']'linary allowance of animal food is insufficient in
th*' winter season to maintain a laboring man in health ;
and as Sir John Franklin would deem it prudent when
detained a second winter to shorten the allowance,
symptoms of scurvy may show themselves among the
men, as was the case when Sir Edward Parry wintered
twu years in Fox's Channel.

" A vessel, therefore, meeting the Erebus and Terror
this season in Eehring's Straits, might render great
service." *

The late Sir John Barrow, Bart., in a memorandum
dated July, 1>^47, says : —

'• The anxiety that prevails regarding Sir John Frank-
lin, and the brave fellows who compose the crews of
the two ships, is very natural, but somewhat premature ;
it arises chiefly from nothing having been received from
them since fixed in the ice of Baflin's Bay, where the
last whaling ship of the season of 1845 left them, oppo-
site to the opening into Lancaster Sound. Hitherto no
difficulty has been found to the entrance into that
Sound. If disappointed, rather than return to the south-
ward, with the view of wintering at or about Disco, I

• Pari. Paper, No. 264, Session 1848. -'

OriNIONa AND Sl'OORSTIONS.

217

pliould be ineliiRHl to think that they would en(U»avMi'to
(.'UtcM' Siuith\s Sound, so hiirlilv s|)ukt»n of 1)V liallin. :ui<l
Avhicli just MOW that «^alhint and adventurous iiu- 1.1:1,
Admiral Count Wrangel, has jxMnted out in a ] .[it
addressed to the Geoi^raphical Society as the stai- iiil?
place for an attempt to reach the North Pole; it would
a})pear to be an inlet that runs up hiojh to the northw.ird.
as an otlicer in one of Parry's ships states that he <\\v
in the line of direction along that inlet, the sun at laid-
night skimming the horizon.

'' From Lancaster Sound Franklin's instructions di-
rected him to proceed through Barrow's Strait, as far as
the islands on its southern side extended, which is short
of Melville Island, which was to be avoided, not only
on account of its dangerous coast, but also as beiui: out
of the direction of the course to the intended olMt'ct.
Having, therefore, reached the last known land 01 the
houthern side of Barrow's Strait, they were to si ())o
a direct course to Behring's Strait, without any d<'>ia-
tion, except what obstruction might be met with from
ice, or from, islands, in the midst of the Polar Sea, of
which no knowledge had at that time been procured ;
but if any such existed, it would of coui-se l)e left to
their judgment, on the spot, how to get rid of such ob-
Btructions, by taking a northerly or a southerly course.

" The only chance of bringing them upon this • rho
American) coast is the possibility of some obstni< iion
having tempted them to explore an immense ink 011
the northern shore of Barrow's Strait, (short of M '.
ville Island,) called Wellington Channel, which Parry
felt an inclination to explore, and more than one of
the present party betrayed to me a similar inclinuflon,
which I discouraged, no one venturing to conjoduie
even to what extent it might go, or into what difficulties
it might lead.

" Under all these circumstances, it would It an act
of folly to pronounce any opinion of the ?t;i e. ^' •!!-
tion, opposition of those two ships ; they are weU .Milce<l

II'

218

I'KOGRKSS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

for their purpose, and the only doubt I liave is that of
their being hampered by the screws among the ice."

Sir James C. Koss, in his outline of a plan for afford-
ing relief, submitted to the Admiralty in December,
1847, suggested that two ships shoulci be sent out to
examine Wellington Channel, alluded to in the forego-
ing memorandum of Sir John Barrow, and the coast
between Capes Clarence and Walker. A convenient
winter harbor might be found for one of the ships near
Garnier Bay or Cape Rennell. From this position the
coast line could be explored as far as it extended to the
westward, by detached parties, early i.i the spring, as
well as the western coast of Boothia, a considerable
distance to the southward ; and at a more advanced
period of 'the season the whole distance to Cape Nicolai
might bo completed.

The other ship should then proceed alone to the
westward, endeavoring to reach Winter Harbor, in
Melville Island, or some convenient port in Banks'
Land, in which to pass the winter.

From these points parties might be sent out early in
the spring.

The first party should be directed to trace the west-
em coast of Banks' Land, and proceed direct to Cape
Bathurst or Cape Parry, on each of which Sir John
Richardson proposes to leave depots of provisions for
its use, and then to reach the Hudson's Bay Company's
settlement at Fort Good Hope, on the Mackenzie,
whence they might travel by the usual route of the
traders to the principal settlement, and thence to Eng-
land.

The second party should explore the eastern shore of
Banks' Land, and make for Cape Krusenstem, where,
or at Cape Hearne, they will find a cache of provision
left by Sir John Richardson, with whom this party
may communicate, and whom it may assist in comple-
ting the examination of WoUaston and Victoria Lands,
or return to England by the route he shall deem most
advisable.

Sir James Ross was intrusted with the carrying out

OPINIONS AND 8UOOESTION8.

219

jre.

ds,
ost

of this eearch, in the Enterprise and Investigator, and
an account of the voyage and procecdini^ of these ves-
6c1h will be found recorded in its chronological order.

The following letter from Dr. Richard King to the
Lords of the Admiralty contains some useful sugges-
tions, although it is mixed up with a good deal of ego-
tistical remark: —

** 17, Saville JioWy February, 1848.

"'The old route of Parry, through Lancaster Sound
and Barrow's 8trait, as far as to the last land on its
southern shore, and thence in a direct line to Behrlng's
Straits, is the route ordered to be pursued by Frank-
lin.'*

"The gallant officer has thus been dispatched to push
his adventurous way between Melville Island and
Banks' Land, which Sir E. Parry attempted for two
years unsuccessfully. A.fter much toil and hardship,
and the best consideration that great man could give
to the subject, he recorded, at the moment of retreat,
in indelible characters, these impressive thoughts:
' We have been lying near our present station, with
an easterly wind blowing fresh, for thirty-six hours
together, and although this was considerably off the
land, the ice had not during the whole of that time
moved a single yard from the shore, affording a proof
that there was no space in which the ice was at liberty
to move to the westward. The navigation of this part
of the Polar Sea is only to be performed by watching
the occasional opening between the ice and the shore,
md therefore, a continuity of land is essential for this
purpose ; such a continuity of land, which was here
about to fail, as must necessarily be furnished by the
northern coast of America, in whatsoever latitude it
may be found.' Assuming, therefore. Sir John Frank-
lin has been arrested between Melville Island and
Banks' Land, where Sir E. Parry was arrested by dif-
ficulties which he considered insurmountable, and hr
has followed the advice of that gallant officer, and

• Barrow's Arctic Voyages, p. 11.

-i^'^A.-^:

':f

220

ruooKK.sa of auctkj dhcovkuv.

in;i(le for the continuity of America, he will have
turned the nrows t»f his vcsBel south and west, accord-
\w^ as BaiiKs' J^and tends for Victoria or Wollaston
JiUruls. It is lierc, therefore, that we may expect to
iind the expedition wrecked, wlience they will make
in their hoats for the western land t>f North Somerset,
if tliat land should not be too far distant.

"In order to save the i)arty from the <jrdeal of u
fo.urth winter, when starvation must he their lot, L
propose to undertake the ])olde8t journey that has ever
uocn attempted in the northern regions of America,
one which was justiliable only from the circumstances.
I ])ropo8e to attemi)t to reach the western land of Ninth
Somerset or the eastern portion of Victoria Laud, as
may be deemed advisable, by the close of the ap-
proaching summer; to accomplish, in fact, in one sum-
mer that which has not been done under two.

" I rest my hope of success in the performance of
this Herculean task upon the fact, that I possess an in-
timate knowledge of the country and the people through
which I shall have to pass, the health to stand the
rigor of the climate, ana the strength to undergo the
fatigue of mind and body to which I must be subjected.
A glance at the map of North America, directed to
IJeliring's Strait in the Pacific, Barrow's Strait in tlio
Atlantic, and the land of North Somerset between
tlicm, will make it apparent that, to render assistance
to a party situated on tnat coast, there are two ways by
sea and one by land. Of the two sea-ways, the route
by tlie Pacific is altogether out of the question ; it is an
idea of by-gone days ; while that by trie Atlantic is so
(loul)tful of success, that it is merely necessary, to put
tliis assistance aside as far from certain, to mention that
Sir John Ross found Barrow's Strait closed in the sum-
mer of 1832. To a land journey, then, alone we can
look for success ; for the failure of a land journey
Would be the exception to the rule, while the sea expe-
flition \vould lie tlio rule itself. To tlie western land of
Nv>ith Somerset, where Sir John Franklin is likely to
be found, the Gi-eat Fish River is the direct and only

oriNIoNS AND aUOOI-MilONS.

221

IS so

put

1 that
sinii-

e can
arney
expa-
nd of
ely to
only

route ; aud although the approach to it id tlirough a
country too poor, and too dimcult of access to admit of
the transport of provisionB, it may he made the medi-
um of communication hetween the lost expedition and
the civilized world, and guides be thus placed at their
disposal to convey them to the hunting grounds of the
Indians. Without such guides it is impossible that
they can reach these hunting grounds, it was by the
Great Fish lliver that I reached the Polar Sea while
acting as second officer, in search of Sir John Koss.
I feel it my duty, therefore, as one of two officers bo
peculiarly circumstanced, at the present moment to
place my views on record, as an earnest of my sincer-
ity. Even if it should be determined to try and force
provision vessels through Barrow^s Strait, and scour
the vicinity in boats for the lost expedition, and should
it succeed, it will be satisfactory to know that such a
mission as I have proposed should be adopted ; while,
if these attempts should fail, and the service under con
sideration be put aside, it will be a source of regret
that not only the nation at largo will feel, but the whole
civilized world. When this regret is felt, and every
eoul has perished, such a mission as I have proposed
will be urged again and again for adoption ; for it is
impossible that the country will rest satisfied until a
search be made for the remains of the lost expedition;
"The fact that all lands which have a wester aspect
are generally ice-free, which I dwelt largely upon when
Sir John Franklin sailed, must have had weight with
the gallant officer ; he will therefore, oh finding him-
self m a serious difficulty, while pushing along the east-
ern side of Victoria Land, at once fall upon the western
land of North Boraers^t, as a reftige ground, if he have
the opportunity. The eifort by Senring's Strait and
Bftjiks* Jjand i? praiseworthy in attempt, but forlorn in
hope. In the foriper effort, it is assumed that Sir John
Franklin has n^ade the passage, and that his arrest is
between the Mackenzie Kiver and Icy Cape ; in the
latter, that Sir James Ross will reach Banks' Land, and
trace its continuity to Victoria and WoUaston Land j

|.i

222

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

and thus make the * passage.' First, We have no rea-
son to believe that Sir John Franklin and Sir James
Ross will be more fortunate than their predecessors,
and we cannot trust to their success. Secondly, We
are unable to assume that Sir James Koss will reach
Bank's Land ; Sir E. Parry was unable to reach it, and
only viewed it from a distance ; much less are we able
to assume that the gallant officer will find a high road
to Victoria Land, which is altogether a terra incognita.

"'Mr. T. Simpson, who surveyed the arctic coast
comprised between the Coppermine and Castor and
Pollux Rivers, has set that (question at rest, and is the
only authority upon the subject. ' A further explora-
tion,' remarks Mr. Simpson, from the most eastern limit
of his journey, ' would necessarily demand the whole
time and energies of another expedition, having some
point of retreat much nearer to tne scene of operations
than Great Bear Lake, and Great Bear Lake is to be
the retreat of Sir John Richardson.'

" What retreat could Mr. Simpson have meant but
Great Slave Lake, the retreat of the land party in search
of Sir John Ross ? and what other roaa to the unex-
plored ground, the western land of North Somerset,
could that traveler have meant than Great Fish River,
that stream which I have pointed out as the ice free
and high road to the land where the lost expedition is
likely to be found, — to be the boundary of that pass-
age which for three and a half centuries we have oeen
in vain endeavoring to reach in ships ? "

Captain Sir W. E. Parry, to whom Dr. King's pro-
posal was submitted by the Admiralty, thus comments
on it : —

" Mv former opinion, quoted by Dr. King, as to the
difficulty of ships penetrating to the westward beyond
Cape Dundas, (the southwestern extremitv of Melville
island,) remains unaltered ; and I should expect that
Sir Jphn Franklin, being aware of this difficulty, would
use his utmost efforts to get to the southward and west-
ward before he approached that point, that is, between
the 100th and 110th degree of longitude. The more I

OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS

/«.

have considered this subject, (which has i u itZ^ occu-
pied much of my attention lately,) the more difficult I
find it to conjecture where the expedition may iuive
stopped, either with or without any serious accident to
the ships ; but as no information has reached us up to
this time, I conceive that there is some considerable
probability of their being situated somewhere between
the longitude I have just named ; how far tkey may
have penetrated to the southward, between those meri-
dians, must be a matter of speculation, depending on
the state of the ice, and the existence of land in a space
hitherto blank on our maps.

"Be this as it may, I consider it not improbable as
suggested by Dr. King, that an attempt will be irade
by them to fall back on the western coast of I^ rth
Somerset, wherever that may be found, as being the
nearest point affording a hope of communication, ei lier
with whalers or with ships sent expressly in searci of
the expedition.

"Agreeing thus far with Dr. King, I am compo led
to differ with him entirely as to the readiest mod of
reaching that coast, because I feel satisfied that, a' ith
the resources of the expedition now equipping iir ler
Sir James Boss, the energy, skill, and mtelligence of
that officer will render it a matter of no very diffi ult
enterprise to examine the coast in question, either v ith
liis ships, boats, or traveling parties ; whereas an at-
tempt to reach that coast by an expedition from the
continent of America must, as it appears to me, be 3X-
tremely hazardous and uncertain. And as I under-
stand it to be their lordships' intention to direct Sir
James Ross to station one of nis ships somewhere al)out
Cape Walker, while the other proceeds on the search,
and likewise to equip his boats specially for the pur-
pose of examining the various coasts and inlets, 1 am
decidedly of opinion, that, as regards the western coast
of North Somerset, this plan will be much more likely
to answer the proposed object, than any overland
expedition. This object will, of course, be the more
easily accomplished in case of Sir James Ross finding

!.1

'^-

224

I'ROOEESS OF AKCTIO DISCOVERY.

the western coast of North Somerset navigable for his
ships.

" In regard to Dr. King's suggestion respecting Yic
toria Land and WoUaston Land, supposing Sir John
Franklin's ships to have been arrested between the
meridians to which I have already alluded, it does
seem, by an inspection of the map, not improbable that
parties may attempt to penetrate to the continent in
that direction ; but not being well acquainted with the
facilities for reaching the coast of America opposite
those lands in the manner proposed by Dr. King, I am
not competent to judge of its practicability."

Nearly the whole of the west coast of North Somer-
set and Boothia was, (it will be found hereafter,) ex-
plored by parties in boats detached jfrom Sir James
Ross's ships in 1849.

I append, also, the most important portions of Sir
James Koss's remarks on Dr. King's plan.

" Dr. King begins by assuming that Sir John Frank-
lin has attempted to push the ships through to the west-
ward, between Melville Island and Banks' Land, (al-
though directly contrary to his instructions ;) that hav-
ing been arrested by insurmountable difficulties, he
would have ' tm'ned the prows of his vessels to tlie
south and. west, according as Banks' Land tends for
Victoria or WoUaston Land ;' and having been wrecked,
or from any other cause obliged to abandon their ships,
their crews would take to tne boats, and make for the
west coast of North Somerset.

"If the expedition had failed to penetrate to the
westward between Banks' Land and Melville Island, it
is very probable it would have next attempted to gain
the continent by a more southerly course ; and suppos-
ing that, after making only small progress, (say 100
mues,) to the southwest, it should have been then finally
stopped or wrecked, the calamity will have occurred
in about latitude 72 i° N., and longitude 115° W. This
point is only 280 miles from the Coppermine River
and 420 miles from the Mackenzie, either of whicl
would, therefore, be easily attainable, and at each of

OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS.

225

wliicb, abundance of provision might be procured by
them, and their return to England a measure of no
great difficulty.

" At the point above mentioned, the distance from
the west coast of North Somerset is probably about 360
miles, and the mouth of the Great Fiflll River full 500 ;
at neither of these places could they hope to obtain a
single day's provisions for so larse a party ; and Sir
John Franklin's intimate knowledge of the impossibil-
ity of ascending that river, or obtaining any food for
his party in passing through the Barren grounds, would
concur in deterring him from attempting to gain either
of these points.

" I think it most probable that, from the situation
pointed out, he would, when compelled to abandon his
ships, endeavor in the boats to retrace his steps, and
passing through the channel by which he had advanced,
and which we have alwavs found of easy navigation,
seek the whale ships whicn annually visit the west coast
of Baffin's Bay.

" It is far more probable, however, that Sir John
Franklin, in obedience to his instructions, would en
deavor to push the ships to the south and west as soon
as they passed Cape Walker, and the consequence of
such a measure, owing to the known prevalence of
westerly wind, and the drift of the main body of the
ice, would be (in my opinion) their inevitable embarrass-
ment, and if he persevered in that direction which he
probably would do, I have no hesitation in stating my
conviction he would never be able to extricate his
ships, and would ultimately be obliged to abandon them.
It is tlierefore in latitude 73° N". and longitude 105° W.
that we may expect to find them involved in the ice,
or shut up in some harbor. This is almost the only
point in which it is likely they would be detained, or
from which it would not be possible to convey informa-
tion of their situation to the Hudson's Bay Settlements.

" If, then, we suppose the crews of the ships should
be compelled, either this autumn or next spring, to
abandon their vessels at or near this point, they wouM

f.?

226

PROOhKsa OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

most assuredly endeavor, in their boats, to reach Lan-
caster Sound ; but I cannot conceive any position in
which they could be placed from which they would
make for the Great Fish Kiver, or at which any party
descending that river would be likely to overtake them ;
and even if it dW, of what advantage could it be to
them?

" If Dr. King and his party, in their single canoe,
did fall in with Sir John Franklin and his party on the
west coast of North Somerset, how does he propose to
assist them ? he would barely have sufficient provision
for his own party, and would more probably be in a
condition to require rather than afford relief. He could
only tell them what Sir John Franklin already knows,
from former experience, far better than l)r. King, that it
would be impossible for so large a party, or indeed any
party not previously provided, to travel across the bar-
ren grounds to any of the Hudson's Bay Settlements."

" AH that has been done by the way of search since
February, 1848, tends," persists Dr. King, " to draw
attention closer and closer to the western land of North
Somerset, as the position of Sir John Franklin, and to
the G-reat Fish (or Back) River, as the high road to
reach it."

Dr. Eang has twice proposed to the Admiralty to
proceed on the search by this route. " It would," he
states, " be the happiest moment of my life (aud my
delight at being selected from a long list of volunteers,
for tne relief of Sir John Ross, was very great) if their
lordships would allow me to go by my old route, the
Great Fish River, to attempt to save human life a sec-
ond time on the shores of the Polar Sea. What I did
in search of Sir John Ross is the best earnest of what
I could do in search of Sir John Franklin."

A meeting of those officers and gentlemen most con-
versant with arctic voyages was convened by the
Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty on the if th of
January, 1849, at which the following were present : —
Rear- Admiral Sir Francis Beaufort, K. C. B., Captain
Sir W. E. Parry, R. N., Captain Sir George Back, B.

OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS.

227

N., Captain Sir E. Belcher, R. N., Colonel Sabine, R.
A., and the Rev. Dr. Scoresby.

A very pretty painting, containing portraits of all the
principal arctic voyagers in consultation on these mo-
mentous matters, has been made by Mr. Pearse, artist,
of 63, Berners Street, Oxford Street, which is well
worthy of a visit. The beautiful Arctic Panorama of
Mr. Burford, in Leicester Square, will also give a
graphic idea of the scenery and appearance of the icy
regions; the whole being designed from authentic
sketches by Lieut. Browne, now of the Resolute, and
who was out in the Enterprise in her trip in 1848, and
also with Sir James Ross in his antarctic voyage.

The expedition under Sir James Ross having re-
turned unsuccessful, other measures of relief were now
determined on, and the opinions of the leading officers
again taken.

Admiral Sir Francis Beaufort, in his report to the
Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, on jSTovember
24th, 1849, observes : —

" There are four ways only in which it is likely that
the Erebus and Terror woula have been lost — by fire,
by sunken rocks, by storm, or by being crushed be-
tween two fields of ice. Both vessels would scarcely
have taken fire together ; if one of them had struck on a
rock the other would have avoided the danger. Storms
in those narrow seas, encumbered with ice, raise no
swell, and could produce no such disaster ; and there-
fore, by the fourth cause alone could the two vessels
have been at once destroyed ; and even in that casd
the crews would have escaped upon the ice (as happens
every year to the whalers ;) they would have saved
their loose boats, and reached some part of the American
shores. As no traces of any such event have been found
on any part of those shores, it may therefore be safely
affirmed that one ship at least, and both the crews,
are still in existence ; and therefore the point where
they now are is the great matter for consideration.

"Their ordere would have carried them toward Mel-
ville Island, and then out to the westward, where it is

»•-

]< \r-

228

P110GRES8 OF ARCTIC DISOOVERl

therefore probable that they are entangle* amonff
islands ana ice. For should they have been arrested
at some intermediate place, for instance, Cape Walker,
or at one of the northervi chain of islands, tliey would,
undoubtedly, in the course of the three following years,
have contrived some method of sending notices of theii
iK)sition to the shores of North Somerset or to Barrow's
Strait.

"If they had reached much to the southward of
Bank's Land, they would surely have communicated
with the tribes on Mackenzie Eiver ; and if, failing to
get to the westward or southward, they had returned
with the intention of penetrating through Wellington
Channel, they would have detached parties on the ice
toward Barrow's Strait, in order to have deposited
statements of their intentions.

" The general conclusion, therefore, remains, that they
are still locked up in the Archipelago to the westward
of Melville Islana. Now, it is well known that the
state of the weather alternates between the opposite
sides of Northern America, being mild on the one when
rigorous on the other ; and accordingly, during the two
last years, which have been unusually severe in Baffin's
Bay, the United States whalers were successfully trav-
ersing the Polar Sea to the northward of Benring's
Straits. The same severe weather may possibly prevail
on the eastern side during the summer of 1850, and if
so, it is obvious that an attempt should be now made
by the western opening, and not merely to receive the
two ships, if they should be met coming out (as for-
merly,) but to advance in the direction of Melville
Island, resolutely entering the ice, and employing every
possible expedient by sledging parties, by reconnoitering
balloons, and by blasting the ice, to communicate with
them. '

"These vessels should be intrepidly commanded,
effectively manned, and supplied with the best means
for traveling across the ice to the English or to the
Russian setSements, as it will be of the greatest impor-
tance to be informed of what progress the expedition

OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS.

220

has made; and for this purpose likewise tlic Plover
will be of material service, lying at some advanced
poiJiK near Icy Cape, and readv to receive intelligence,
and to convey it to Petropaulski or to Panama.

" These vessels should enter Behring's Straits before
the first of August, and therefore every effort should
be now made to dispatch them from England before
Cliristmas. They might water at the Falkland Islands,
and again at the Sandwich Islands, where they would
be ready to receive additional instructions via Panama,
l)y one of the Pacific steamers, and by which vessel
they might be pushed on some little distance to the
northward.

" It seems to me likely that the ships have been push-
ing on, summer after summer, in the direction of 13ehr-
ing's Straits, and are detained somewhere in the space
Bouthwestward of Banks' Land. On the other hand,
should they, after the first or second summer, have been
unsuccessful in that direction, they may have attempted
to proceed to the northward, either through Wellington
Channel, or through some other of the openings among
the same group of islands. I do not myself attach any
superior importance to Wellington Channel as regards
the northwest passage, but I understand that Sir John
Franklin did, and tnat he strongly expressed to Lord
Haddington his intention of attempting that route, if
he should fail in eifecting the more direct passage to
the westward.

"The ships having been fully victualed for three
years, the resources inay, by due precautions, have
been extended to four years for the whole crews ; but
it has occurred to me, since I had the honor of confer-
ring with their lordships, that, if their numbers have
been gradually diminished to any considerable extent
by death, (a contingency which is but too probable, con-
sidering their unparalleled detention in the ice,) the
resources would be proportion ably extended for the
survivors, whom it might, therefore, be found ex])edieiit
to transfer to one of the ships, with all the remaining
stores, and with that one shij^ to continue the endeavor

230

PBOaBESS OF AECTIO DISCOVERT.

to push westward, or to return to the eastward, as cir-
cumstances might render expedient ; in that case, the
necessity for quitting both the ships in the past sum-
mer might not improbably have been obviated.

" Under these circumstances, which, it must be admit
ted, amount to no more than mere conjecture, it seems
to me expedient still to prosecute the search in both
directions, namely, by way of Behring's Strait (to which
I look with the strongest hope,) and also by that of
Barrow's Strait. In the latter direction, it ought, I
think, to be borne in mind, that the more than usual
difficulties with which Sir James Boss had to contend,
have, in reality, left us with very little more informa-
tion than before he left £ngland, and I cannot contem-
plate without serious apprehension, leaving that opening
without still further search in the ensuing spnng, in
case the missing crews have fallen back to the eastern
coast of North Somerset, where they would naturally
look for supplies to be deposited for them, in addition
to the chance of finding some of those left by the Fury.
For the purpose of further pursuing the search by way
of Barrow's Strait, perhaps two small vessels of 160 or
200 tons might suffice, but they must be square rigged
for the navigation among the ice. Of course the object
of such vessels would be nearly that which Sir James
Boss's endeavors have failed to accomplish ; and the
provisions, &c., left by that officer at Whaler Point,
as well as any which may be deposited in that neigh-
borhood by the Noiih Star, would greatly add to the re-
sources, facilitate the operations, and lessen the risk of
any attempt made in tnat direction.

" If, however, there be time to get ships to Behring's
Straits by the first week in August, 1850, which woi3d
perhaps require the aid of steam /essels to accomplish
with any degrea of certainty, I recommend that the
Enterpnse and Investigator be forthwith equipped and
dispatched there, with instructions to push through the
ice to the £. N. £. as far as possible in the ensuing sca-
pon, with the hope of meeting with at least one of the
ships, or any of the parcies which may have been

OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS.

231

detached from them. This attempt has never yet been
made by any ships, and I cling very strongly to the
belief that such an effort might be attended with suc-
cess in rescuing at least a portion of our people.

" My reason for urging this upon their Lordships is,
that the admirable instructions under which the Plover,
assisted by the Herald, is acting, embraces only tho
search of the coast line eastward from Icy Cape ; since
the boats and baidars cannot effect any thing except by
creeping along as opportunities offer, between the ice
and the land, so that tnis plan of operations meets only
the contingency of parties reaching, or nearly reaching,
the land ; whereas the chance ol rescue would, as it
appears to me, be immensely increased by ships push-
ing on, clear of the coast, toward Banks' Land and
Melville Island, as far at least as might be practicable
in the best five or six weeks of the season of 1850."

Captain Parry says — "Although this is the first at-
tempt ever made to enter the ice in this direction, with
ships properly equipped for the purpose, there is no
reason to anticipate any greater difficulties in this navi-

fation than those encountered in other parts of the
lorth Polar Sea ; and, even in the event of not suc-
ceeding in reaching Banks' Land in the summer of the
present year, it may be possible to make such progress
as to afford a reasonable hope of effecting that object
in the following season (1851.) Indeed it is possible
that, from the well known fact of the climate being
more temperate in a given parallel of latitude, in going
westward from the Mackenzie Kiver, some comparative
advantage mav be derived in the navigation of this
part of the Polar Sea.

" It is of importance to the security of the ships and
of their crews that they should winter in some harbor
or bay not at a distance from land, where the ice might
be in motion during the winter ; and it will be desira-
ble, should no land be discovered fit for this purpose,
in the space at present unexplored between Point Bar-
row and Banks' Land, that endeavors should be made to
reach the continent about the mouth of the Mackenzie

232

PROGRESS OB' ARCTIC TUSOOVKUY.

River, or further eastward, toward Liverpool Bay,
w licri' tliere is reason to suppose tliat sutKcieiit shelter
\ui\.y l)e found, and in which neighljurhood, it appears,
there is generally no ice to he seen from the shore for
ul)out six weeks in the months of August and ^eptem-
her. Sir John Franklin's narrative of his second jour
ney, that of Messrs. Dease and Simpson, and the
Admiralty Charts, will furnish the requisite hydro
grai)liical information relative to this line of coast, se
tar as it has been attained.

" The utmost economy should be exercised in the use
of provisions and fuel uuring the time the ships are in
winter quarters ; and if they should winter on or near
tiie continent, there would probably be an opportunity
of increasing their stock of provisions by means of
game or iish, and likewise of fuel, by drift or other
wood, to some considerable amount.

"If the progress of the ships in 1850 has been con-
siderable — for instance, as far as the meridian of 120°
W. — the probability is, that the most practicable way
of returning to England will be, still to push on in the
same direction during the whole season of 1851, with
a view to reach Barrow's Strait, and take advantage,
if necessary, of the resources left by Captain Sir James
lloss at Whaler Point, near Leopola Harbor ; if not the
same season, at least after a second winter. If, on the
other hand, small progress should have been made to
the eastward at the close of the present summer, it
might be prudept that when half the navigable season
of 1851 shall have expired, no further attempts should
be made in proceeding to the eastward, and that the
remaining half of that season should be occupied in
returning to the westward, with a view to escape from
the ice by way of Behring's Straits after the winter of
1851-52, so as not to incur the risk of passing a third
winter in the ice.

" During the summer season, the most vigilant look-
out should be kept from the mast-heads of both ships
nigiit and day, not only for the missing ships, but tor
Any detached parties belonging to them ; and during

the
le to

look-
ships

OPlNh'KS ANlJ SUGUKSIIONS.

233

tlie few hours of darkness wliicli prevail toward the close
vi' each Huasoii's iuivi«^ation, and also when lit wiiiti'r
(juarters, signals, by lires, blue li«j;lits, rockets or jL;;iins,
shoidd be made as the means of pointing out the posi-
tion of the ships to any detached parties belonging to
tlie missing expedition. And in the spring before the
ships can be released from the ice, searching j)artles
might be sent out in various directions, either in boats
or by land, to examine the nelgldjoring coasts and inlets
for any trace of the missing crews/'

Captain Sir George Back also comments (1st of Do-
(■end)er, 18-19,) on these intentions, in a letter to the Sec-
retary of the Admiralty : —

'• ion will be pleased. Sir, to Impress upon my Lords
Commissioners, that I wholly reject all and every idea
of any attempts on the part of Sir John Franklin to
send boats or detachments over the ice to any part of
tlic main-land eastward of the Mackenzie River, because
I can say from experience, tliat no toil-worn and ex-
luiusted party could have the least chance of existence
bv i>'oin<x there.

'' On the other hand, from my knowledge of Sir John
Franklin, (having been three times on discovery to-
gether,) I much doubt if he would quit his ship at all,
except in u boat ; for any attempt to cross the ice a long
distance on foot would bo tempting deatii ; and it is too
hiliorious a task to sledge far over such an imeven sur-
face as those regions generally present. That great
mortality must have occurred, ana that one ship, as Sir
K. Beaufort hints at, may be lost, are greatly to be feared ;
and, as on all former expeditions, if the survivors are
])aralyzed by the depressing attacks of sc^irvy, it would
then be impossible for them, however desirous they
miglit be, to leave the ship, which must thus become
tlieir last most anxious abode.

"If, however, open water should have allowed Sir
John Franklin to have resorted to his boats, then I am
persuaded he would make for either the Mackenzie
Kiver, or, which is far more likely, from the almost
certainty he must have felt of finding provision, Capo

234

ritOGKKSS OF AKCIIO DISCOVKRV.

" I am awuro that tlio wliolo cjianccs of lite in this
)aintul case depend on food ; bnt wiicn 1 refleet on
sir John Franklin's former extraordinary preservation
imder miseries and trials of the most severe description,
living otlen on 8cra))S of old leather and other refuse, I
cannot despair of his finding the means to prolong exist-
ence till aid be happily sent^^liim."

Dr. Sir John Richardson on the same day also sends
in his opinion, as requested, on the proposed dispatch
of the Enterprise and Investigator to Beliring's Strait :
' " It seems to me to be very desirable that the western
shores of the Archipelago of Parry's Islands should bo
searched in a high latitude in the manner proposed by
the hydrograi>her.

"If the proposed expedition succeeds in establishing
its winter quarters among these islands, parties de-
tached over the ice may travel to the eastward and
soutlieastward, so as to cross the line of search which it
is hoped Mr. Rao has been able to pureuo in the present
summer, and thus to determine wnether any traces of
the missing ships exist in localities the most remote
from Behrmg's Strait and Lancaster Sound, and from
whence shipwrecked crews would find the greatest diffi-
culty in traveling to any place wliere they could hope
to find relief.

" The climate of Arctic America improves in a sensi-
ble manner with an increase of western longitude. On
the Mackenzie, on the 135th meridian, the summer is
warmer than in any district of the continent in the same

{)arallel, and it is still finer, and the vegetation more
uxuriant on the banks of the Yucon, on the 150th me-
ridian. This superiority of climate leads me to infer,
that ships well fortified against drift-ice, will find tlie
navigation of the Arctic Seas more practicable in its
western portion than it has been founa to the eastward.
This inference is supported by my own personal expe-
rience, as far as it goes. I met with no ice in the month
of August, on my late voyage, till I attainea the 123d
meridian, and which I was led, from that circumstance,
to suppose coincided with the western limits of Parry's
Archipelago.

Ol'INIONS AND SLOOKSTlUNS.

235

*Tlio grcfttertiicility ot* navigating from tlic west has
Leon i)uwert*»lly advocated by others on furiiier occa-
Bions ; and tlio chief, ])erliap8 the only reason why the
attempt to ))cnctrato tiio Polar Sea from that (luarter
lias not been resumed since the time of Cook is, tiiat
tlie length of the previous voyage to Behring's Strait
would considerably diminish the store of ])rovibion8 ;
but the facilities ot obtaining supplies in the Pacific are
now 80 augmented, that this objection has no longer thu
same force."

Cai)tain F. W. Beechey, writing from Cheltenham,
on the Ist of December, 1849, says : —

"I quite agree with Sir Francis Beaufort in what ho
has stated with regard to any casualties which Sir J.
Franklin's 6hii)s may have sustained, and entirel v agree
with him and Sir Edward Parry, that the expc(ution \n
])robably hampered among the ice somewhere to the
southwcstward of Melville Island ; but there is yet a
])os8ibility which does not appear to have been contem-
]»lated, wliicli is, that of the scurvy having spread among
the crew, and incapacitated a large proportion of thoni
iVom making any exertion toward their release, or that
the whole, in a debilitated state, may yet be clinging
by their vessels, existing sparingly upon the provision
wiiich a large mortality may have spun out, in the hope
of relief.

" In the first case, that of the sliips being hampered
and the crews in good health, I think it certain that, as
tlie resources of the ships would bo expended in May
last, Sir John Franklin and his crew have abandoned
tlie ships, and pushed forward for the nearest point
where they might reasonably expect assistance, and
which they could reasonably reach.

"There are consequently three points to which it
would be proper to airect attention, and as the case is
urgent, every possible method of relief should be ener-
getically ])ushed forward at as early a period as possi-
dIc, and directed to those points, which,! need scarcely
say, are Barrow's Strait, Behring's Strait, and the
northern coast of America.

23G

PKOGliESS OF AliCnC DISCO V Eli Y.

" Of the measures which can be resorted to on thi
northern coast of America, the officers who have hao
experience there, and the Hudson's Bay Company, will
be able to judge ; but I am of opinion that nothing
should be neglected in that quarter ; for it seems to
nie almost certain that Sir John Franklin and his crew,
if able to travel, have abandoned their ships and made
for the continent ; and if they have not succeeded in
gaining the Hudson's Bay outposts, they have been
overtaken by winter before they could accomplish their
purpose.

" Lastly as to the opinion which naturally forces itself
upon us, as to the utility of the sending relief to per-
sons whose means of subsistence will have failed them
more than a year by the time the relief could reach
them, I would' observe, that a prudent reduction of the
allowance may have been timely made to meet an
emergency, or great mortality may have enabled the
survivors to subsist up to the time required, or it may
bj that the crews have just missed reaching the points
visited by our parties last year before they quitted them,
:iii.l in the one case may now be subsisting on the sup-
j>lies at Leopold Island, or be housed in eastward of Point
LtiiTow, sustaiued by depots which have been fallen in
with, or by tlie native supplies ; so that under all the
circumstancjGs, I do not consider their condition so
utterly hopeless that we should give up the expectation
of yet being able to render them a timely assistance.

" The endeavors to push forward might be continued
until the 30th of August, at latest, at 'vAich time, if th<
ships be not near some land where they can conven
iently ])ass a winter, they must direct their course for
the main-land, and seek a secure harbor in which they
could remain. And on no account should they risk a
winter in the pack, in consequence of the tides and
shallow water lying off the coast.

"Should the expedition reach Herschel Island, or
any other place of refuge on the coast near the mouth
of the Mackenzie or Colville Rivers, endeavors should
be made to communicate information of the ships' posi-

Lnd, or

1 mouth

should

Ls' posi-

OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS.

237

tioti ikhJi snmmer's proceedings through the Hudson's
Bay Oonipany or Russian settlements, and by means
of iuCerpreters ; and no opportunity should be omitted
of gaining from the natives information of the missing
ressels, as well as of any boat expeditions that may have
^one forward, as well as of the party under Dr. Rae.

" If nothing should be heard ot Sir John Franklin in
1850, parties of observation should be sent forward in
the spring to intercept the route the ship would have
pursued, and in other useful directions between winter
quarters and Melville Island ; taking especial care that
tney return to the ship before the time of liberation
of the ships arrives, which greatly depends upon their
locality.

" Then, on the breaking up of the ice, should any
favorable appearance of the ice present itself, the expe-
dition might be left free to take advantage of such a
prospect, or to return round Point Barrow ; making it
imperative, however, either to insure their return, so
far as human foresight may be exercised, or the cer-
tainty of their reaching Melville Island at the close of
that season, and so securing their return to England
in 1852.

" If, after all, any unforeseen event should detain the
ships beyond the period contemplated above, every
exertion should be used, by means of boats and in-
terpreters, to communicate with the Mackenzie ; and
should any casualty render it necessary to abandon the
vessels, it should be borne in mind that the reserve-ship
will remain at her quarters until the autumn of 1853,
unless she hears of the safety of the ships and boats
in other directions ; while in the other quarter. Fort
Macpherson, at the entrance of the Mackenzie, may bo
relied upon as an asylum.

"The Plover, or reserve-ship, should be provided
with three years' provisions for her own crew, and for
contingencies besides. She should be placed as near
as possible to Point Barrow, and provided with inter-
preters, and the means of offering rewards for infor-
mation ] and she should remain at her quarters so long

il'.

238

PBOOBEBS OF ABCTIC DISCOVEBY.

as there can be any occasion for her presence in u 6
Arctic Seas ; or, if she does not hear any thing ol t.je
expedition under Captain Collinson, as long as her
provisions will last."

Sir John Richardson offers the following advice for
this expedition: — "If," he says, "it should winter
near the mouth of the Yucan or Colville, that river
may be ascended in a boat in the montli of June, be-
fore the sea ice begins to give way. The river varies
in width from a mile and a half to two miles, and
flows through a rich, well-wooded valley, abounding in
moose deer, and having a comparatively mild climate.
A Bussian trading post has been built on it, at the dis
tance of three or four days' voyage from the sea, with
the current ; but as the current is strong, from nine to
twelve days must be allowed for its ascent, with the
tracking line. It would be unsafe to rely upon receiv-
ing a supply of provisions at the Russian post, as it is
not likely that any stock beyond what is necessary for
their own use is laid up by the traders ; and the moose
deer being a very shy animal, is not easily shot by an
unpracticed hunter ; but the reindeer abound on the
neighboring hills, and ire much more approachable.
The white-fronted goose also breeds in vast flocks in
that district of the country, and may be killed in num-
bers, without difficulty, in the month of June.

"If the expedition should winter within a reason-
able distance of the Mackenzie, Captain Collinson
may have it in his power to send dispatches to England
by that route.

"The river opens in June, and as soon as the ice
ceases to drive, may be ascended in a boat, with a fair
wind, under sail, or with a tracking line*

" The lowest post at present occupied by the Ilud-
son's Bay Company on this river is Fort Good Hope.
The site of this post has been changed several times,
but it is at this time on the right bank of the river, in
latitude 66° 16' K., and is ten or eleven days' voyage
from the sea. At Point Separation, opposite to the
middle channel of the delta of the river, and on the

a
i:
r
1.

OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS.

239

ice
fair

[ud-

Lope.

lines,

Ir, ill

^age

the

•<)romontoiy which separates the Peel and the Mac-
tenzie, there is a case of pemmican (80 lbs.) buried, ten
feet distant from a tree, which has its middle branches
lopped off, and is marked on the trunk with a broad
arrow in black paint. A fire was made over the pit
in which the case is concealed, and the remains of the
charcoal will point out the exact spot. This hoard
was visited last year by a party from Fort Macpher-
Bon, Peel's River, when all was safe.

" Eight bags of pemmican, weighing 90 lbs. each,
were deposited at Fort Good Hope in 1848, and would
remain there last summer for the use of any boat
parties that might ascend the river in 1849 ; but it is
probable that part, or the whole, may have been used
by the Company by next year.

"A boat party should be furnished with a small
seine and a short herring net, by the use of which a
good supply of fish may often be procured in the
eddies or sandy bays of the Mackenzie. They should
also be provided with a good supply of buck-shot, swan-
shot, duck-shot, and gunpowder. The Loucheux and
Hare Indians will readily give such provisions as they
may happen to have, in exchange for ammunition.
They will expect to receive tobacco gratuitously, as
they are accustomed to do from the traders.

"The Mackenzie is the only water-way by which
any of the Hudson's Bay Company's posts can be
reached from the Arctic Sea. There is a post on the
Peel River which enters the delta of the Mackenzie,
but no supplies can be procured there. To the east-
ward of the Mackenzie no ship-party would have a
chance of reaching a trading post, the nearest to the
sea being Fort Resolution, on Great Slave Lake, situ-
ated on the 61st parallel of latitude, and the interven-
ing hilly country, intersected by numerous lakes and
rapid rivers, could not be crossed by such a party ir
less than an entire summer, even could they depeny
on their guns for a supply of food. Neither would
be advisable for a party from the ships to attempt to
reach the posts on the Mackenzie by way of the Cop-

240

rROGEKSS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

permine Eiver and Fort Confidence; as, in the ab-
sence of means of transport across Great Bear Lake,
the journey round that irregular sheet of water, would
be long and hazardous. Sear Lake River is more
than fifty miles long, and Fort Norman, the nearest
post on the Mackenzie, is thirty miles above its mouth.
Mr. Rae was ingtructed to engage an Indian family or
two to hunt on the tract of country between the Cop-

E ermine and Great Bear Lake in the summer of 1850 ;
ut no great reliance can be placed on these Indians
remaining long there, as they desert their hunting
quarters on very slight alarms, being in continual
dread t>f enemies, real or imaginary.

" A case of pemmican was buried on the summit ot
the bank, about four or five miles from the summit of
Cape Bathurst, the spot being marked by a pole planted
in the earth, and the exact locality of the deposit by a firo
of drift-wood, much of which would remain unconsumed.

" Another case was deposited in the cleft of a rock,
on a small battlemented clifi^, which forms the extreme
part of Cape Parry. The case was covered with loose
stones ; and a pile of stones painted red and white,
was erected immediately in front of it. This clifi" re-
sembles a cocked-hat in some points of view, and pro-
jects like a tongue from the base of a rounded hill,
which is 500 or 600 feet hi^h.

' " Several cases of pemmican were left exposed on a
ledge of rocks in latitude 68° 35' N., opposite Lambert
Island, in Dolphin and Union Strait, and in a bay to
the westward of Cape Krusenstern, a small boat and
ten pieces of pemmican were deposited under a high
cliff, above high water mark, without concealment.
The Esquimaux on this part of the coast are not nu-
merous, and from the position of this hoard, it may
escape discovery by them ; but I have every reason to
believe that the locality has been visited by Mr. Rae in
the past summer. A deposit of larger size, near Cape
Kendall, has been more certainly visited by Mr. Rae."

Captain Sir J. 0. Ross writes from Haslar, 11th of
February, 1860.

OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS.

241

nu-

ein

" With respect to the probable position of the Erebus
and Terror, I consider that it is hardly possible they
can be anywhere to the eastward of Metville Island|
or within 300 miles of Leopold Island, for if that were
the case, they would assuredly, during the last spring,
have made their way to that point, with the hope of
receiving assistance from the whale-ships which, for
several years previous to the departure of that expedi-
tion from England, had been in the habit of visiting
Prince Regent Inlet in pursuit of whales ; and in that
case they must have been met with, or marks of their
encampments have been found by some of the numer-
ous parties detached from the Enterprise and Investi-
gator along the shores of that vicinity during the only
period of the season in which traveling is practicable
in those regions.

"It is probable, therefore, that during their first
summer, vrhich was remarkably favorable for the navi-
gation of those seas, they have been enabled (in obedi-
ence to their orders) to push the ships to the westward
of Banks' land, and have there become involved in the
heavy pack of ice which was observed from Melville
Island always to be setting past its westernmost point
in a southeast direction, and from which pack they may
not have been able to extricate their ships.

" From such a position, retreat to the eastward would
be next to impossible, while the journey to the Mac-
kenzie River, of comparatively easy accomplishment,
together with Sir John Franklin's knowledge of the
resources in the way and of its practicability, would
strengthen the belief that this measure will have been
adopted by them during the last spring.

"if this be assumed as the present position of the
Erebus and Terror, it would manifestly be far more
easy and safe to afford them relief by means of an ex-
pedition entering Behring's Straits, than from any other
direction, as it would not be necessary for the ships to
depart so far from the coast of North America as to
preclude their keeping up a regular communication
with the Russian settlements on the River Oolville, or

: K

^ft-

242

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVIJSV.

those of the Hudson's Bay Company near the mouth
of the Mackenzie, while the whole space between any

Eosition in which the ships might winter, and Banks'
and could be thoroughly examined by traveling par-
ties early in the spring, or by boats or steam launches
at a more advanced period of the following season."

Mr. W. Snow, in a letter from New York, dated 7th
of January, 1850, suggests a plan for a well organized
expedition of as many men as could be fitted out from
private funds. " For instance, let a party of 100 picked
men, well disciplined and officered, as on board a ship,
and accompanied with all the necessary food, scientinc
instruments, and every thing useftd on such expeditions,
proceed immediately, by the shortest and most avail-
able routes, to the lands in tho neighborhood of the un-
explored regions. If possible, I would suggest that
they should proceed first to Moose Fort, on the south
iern part of Hudson's Bay, and thence by small craft
to Chesterfield Inlet, or otherwise by land reach that
quarter, so as to arrive there at the opening of summer.
From this neighborhood let the partv, minus ten men,
be divided into three separate detachments, each with
specific instructions to extend their researches in a
northerly and northwesterly direction. The wfjatern-
most party to proceed as near as possible in a direct
course to the easternmost limits of discovery yet made
from Behring's Straits, and on no account to deviate
from that course on the western side of it, but, if ne-
cessary, to the eastward. Let the central party shape a
course as near as possible to the position of the Mag-
netic Pole ; and the easternmost division direct to
Prince Regent Inlet, or the westernmost point of dis-
covery from the east, and not to deviate from that courso
easterly. Let each of these detachments be formed
again into three divisions, each division thus consisting
of ten men. Let the first division of each detachmeni
pioneer the way, followed on the same track by thb
second and the third, at stated intervals of time. Oa
the route, let the pioneers, at every spot necessary, leave?
distinguishing marks to denote the way, and also to

^■^i

OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS.

248

five information to either of the other two principal
etachments as may by chance fall into their track
To second the efforts of the three detachments, let con
stant succors and other assistance be forwarded by
way of Moose Fort, and through the ten men left at
Cliesterfield Inlet ; and should the object for which
such an expedition was Ti - \ed be happily accom-
plished by the return of th<5 lost voyagers, let messen-
gers be forwarded with the news, as was done with
Captain Back, in the case of Captain Ross. Let each
of the exti'eme detachments, upon arriving at their re-
spective destinations, and upon being joined by the
wliole of their body, proceed to form plans for uniting
with the central party, and ascertaining the results
already obtained by each by sending parties in that
direction. Also, let a chosen number be sent out from
each detachment as exploring parties, wherever deemed
requisite ; and let no effort be wanted to make a search
in every direction where there is a possibility of its
proving successful.

" If a public and more extensive expedition be set on
foot, I would most respectfully draw attention to the
following suggestions: — Let a land expedition be formed
upon a similar plan, and with the same number of men,
say 300 or more, as those fitted out for sea. Let this
expedition be formed into three great divisions ; the one
proceeding by the Athabasca to the Great Slave Lake,
and following out Captain Back's discoveries ; the
second, through the Churchill district ; or, with the
third, according to the plan laid out for a private expe-
dition alone ; only keeping the whole of their forces as
much as possible bearing upon the points where success
may be most likely attamalble.

" Each of these three great divisions to be subdivided
and arranged also as in the former case. The expense
of an expedition of this kind, with all the necessary
outlay for provisions, &c., I do not think would be more
than half what the same would cost if sent by sea ; but
of this I am not a competent judge, having no definite
means to make a comparison. But there is yet another,

,1'

■1'
i

244

PROGRESS OF ARCTIO Dl^OOVKRY.

and, I cannot help conceiving, a more easy way of ob-
viating all difficulty on this point, and of reducing the
expense considerably.

" It must be evident that the present position of the
arctic voyagers is iwu( very accessible, either by land
or sea, else the distinguished leader at the head of the
expedition would long ere this have tracked a route
whereby the whole party, or at least some of them
could return.

"In such a case, therefore, the only way to reach
them is by, if I may use the expression, /brc^/l^ an ex-
pedition on toward them ; I mean, by keeping it con-
stantly upheld and pushing onward. There may be,
and indeed there are, very great difficulties, and diffi-
culties of such a nature that, I believe, they would
themselves cause another great difficulty in the procur-
ing of men. But, if I might make another bold sug-
festion, I would respectfiSly ask our government at
ome, why not employ picked men from convicted
criminals, as is done^ in exploring expeditions in Aus-
tralia ? Inducements might be held out to them ; and
by proper care they would be made most serviceable
auxiliaries. Generally speaking, men convicted of
offenses are men possessed of almost inexhaustible
mental resources ; and such men are the men who,
with physical powers of endurance, are precisely those
required. But this I speak of, merely, if sufficient free
men could not be found, and if economy is studied."

Mr. John McLean, who has been twenty-five years a
partner and officer of the Hudson's Bay Company, and
has published an interesting narrative of his adven-
tures and experience, writing to Lady Franklin from
Canada "West, in January, 1850, suggests the following
very excellent plan as likely to produce some intelli-
gence, if not to lead to a discovery of the party.

" Let a small schooner of some thirty or forty tons
burden, built with a view to draw as little water as
possible, and as strong as wood and iron could make
her, be dispatched from England in company with the
Hudson's Bay ships. This vessel would, immediately

OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS.

245

on arriving at York Factory, proceed to the Strait
termed Sir Thomas Eoe's Welcome, wliich divides
Southampton Island from the main-land ; then direct
her course to Wager River, and proceed onward until
interrupted by insurmountable oostacles. The party
being safely landed, I would recommend their remain-
ing stationary until winter traveling became practicable,
when they should set out for the shores of the Arctic
Sea, which, by a reference to Arrowsmith's map, ap-
pears to be only some sixty or seventy miles distant ;
then dividing in two parties or divisions, the one would
proceed east, the other west ; and I think means could
be devised of exploring 250 or 300 miles in either
direction ; and here a very important question pre-
sents itself, — how and by what means is this enterprise
to be accomplished ?

" In the first place, the services of Esquimaux would
be indispensable, for the twofold reason, that no reliable
information can be obtained from the natives without
their aid, and that they alone properly understand the
art of preparing snow-houses, or ' igloes,' for winter en-
campment, the only lodging which the desolate wastes
of the arctic regions afford. Esquimaux understanding
the English language sufficiently well to answer our
purpose, frequent the Hudson's Bay Company's post
in Labrador, some of whom might be induced, (I should
fain hope,) to engage for the expedition , or probably
the ' half-breed ' natives might do so more readily than
the aborigines. They should, if possible, be strong,
active men, and good marksmen, and not less than four
in number. Failing in the attempt to procure the na-
tives of Labrador, theti I should think Esquimaux
might be obtained at Churchill, in Hudson's Bay ; the
two who accompanied Sir John in his first land expedi-
tion were from this quarter."

An expedition of this kind is to be sent out by Lady
Franklin this spring under the charge of Mr. Kennedy.
There are various ways of accomplishing this object,
the choice of which must mainly depend on the views
and wishes of the officer who may undertake the com-

''it

mi
m

v.i

240

rUOOBESB OF AUCnc DISCX)VERV.

mand. Besides the northern route, or that by Recent
Inlet, it is possible to reach Sir James Eoss and Simp-
son's Straits from the south, entering Hudson's Ba^,
and passing up the Welcome to Rae Isthmus, or agam
by entering Chesterfield or Wager Inlet, and gaining
the coast by Back's or the Great Fish Eiver.

By either of these routes a great part of the explora-
tion must be made in boats or on foot. In every case
the main points to be Bearched are James Eoss's Strait
and Simpson's Strait, if indeed there be a passage in
that direction, as laid down in Sir John Franklm's charts,
though contradicted by Mr. Eae, and considered still
doubtful by some arctic navigators.

. The following extract from the Geograpliical Jour-
nal shows the opinion of Franklin upon the search of
tills quarter. Dr. Eichardson says,* — " No better plan
can be proposed than the one suggested by Sir John
Franklin, oi sending a vessel to Wager Eiver, and car-
rying on the survey from thence in boats."

Sir John Franklin observes^f — " The Doctor alludes
in his letter to some propositions which he knew I had
made in the vear 1828, at the command of his present
Majesty, yWilliam IV.,) on the same subject, and partic-
ulariy to th<5 suggestion as to proceeding from Eepulse
or Wager Bay. * * * A recent careful reading of all
the narratives connected with the surveys of the Wager
and Eepulse Bays, and of Sir Edward ±*arry's Voyage,
together with the information obtained from the Esqui-
maux by Sir Edward Parry, Sir John Eoss, and Cap-
tain Back^ confirm me in opinion that a successful de-
lineation of the coast ea^t of Point Turnagain to the
Strait of the Fury and Hecla, would be best attained
by an expedition proceeding from Wager Bay, the
northern parts of which cannot, I think, be farther dis-
tant than forty miles from the sea, if the information
received by the above-mentioned officers can be de-
pended on."

Dr. McGormick particularly draws attention to Jones'
and Smith's Sounas, recommending a careM exainin

• Journal of Geographical Society, vol vi, p, 40. t Ibid. p. 43,

L.Utlii "I itiTA -i . ^

1 '" . ll

OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS.

247

ation of tliese to their probable termination in tlio
Polar Sea : —

" Jones' Sound, with the "Wellington Channel on the
west, may be found to form an island of the land called
* North Devon.' All prominent positions on both sides
of these Sounds should be searched for flag stavca iind
piles of stones, under whcih copper cylinders or but-
tles may have been deposited, containing accounts of
the proceedings of the missing expedition ; and if suc-
cessful in getting upon its track, a clue would be ob-
tained to the fate ot our gallant countrymen."

The Wellington Channel he considers affords one of
the best chances of crossing the track of the missing
expedition.

To carry out this plan eflSciently, he recommended
that a boat should be dropped, by the ship conveying
the searching party out, at the entrance to the Welling-
ton Channel in Barrow's Strait ; from this point one or
both sides of that channel and the northern shores of
the Parry Islands might be explored as far west as the
season would permit of. But should the ship be en-
abled to look into Jones' Sound, on her way to Lancas-
ter Sound, and find that opening free from ice, an
attempt might be made by the Boat Expedition to push
through it mto the Wellington Channel. In the event,
however, of its proving to be merely an inlet, which a
short delay would be sufficient to decide, the ship miglit
perhaps be in readiness to pick up the boat on its re-
turn, for conveyance to its ultimate destination through
Lancaster Sound ; or as a precaution against any un-
foreseen separation from the ship, a depot of provinions
should be left at the entrance to Jones' Sound for the
boat to complete its supplies from, after accomplisliing
the exploration of this inlet, and to afford the means,
if compelled from an advanced period of the season
or other adverse circumstances, of reaching some place
of refuge, either on board a whaler or some one of the
depots of provisions on the southern shores of Barrow's
Strait.

248

I'KOORESS OF ARCTIC DI8C0VEUY.

Mr. Penny, in charge of tlie Lady Franklin, before
<ailin» observed : —

" It an early passage bo obtained, I would examine
Tones' Sound, as I have generally found in all my early
voyages clear water at the mouth of that sound, and
tJiere is a probability that an earlier passage by tins
route might befouna into Wellington Strait, which out-
let ought by all means to bo thoroughly examined at
the earliest opportunity, since, if Sir J. Franklin had
taken tliat route, with the hope of finding a paesaffo
"\vo8tward, to the north of tne Parry and Mclvillo
Islands, ho may be beyond the power of helping him-
self. No trace of the expedition, or practical commu-
nication with Wellington Strait, being obtained in this
quarter, I would proceed in time to take advantage of
tlio first opening of the ice in Lancaster Sound, with
the view of proceeding to the west and entering Wel-
lington Strait, or, if this should not be practicable, of
proceeding farther westward to Cape Walker, and be-
yond, on one or other of which places Sir John Frank-
lin will probably have left some notices of his course."

The government has seen the urgent necessity of
causing the Wellington Channel to be carefully exam-
ined ; imperative orders were sent to Sir James Ross
to search it, but he was drifted out of Barrow's Strait
against his* will, before be received those orders by the
North Star.

I have already stated that Sir John Franklin's in-
structions directed him to try the first favorable open-
ing to the southwest after passing Cape Walker ; and
failing in that, to try the Wellington Channel. Every
officer in the British Service, as a matter of course,
follows his instructions, as far as they are compatible
with the exigencies of the case, be it what it may, nor
ever deviates from them without good and justifiable
cause. If, then. Sir John Franklin failed in finding an
opening to the southwest of Cape Walker it is reason-
able to suppose he obeyed his instructions, and tried
the Wellington Channel. The second probability in
favor of this locality is, that Sir John Franklin ex-

vlTNlONS AND 8UG0K8T1ON9.

249

pressed o many of his friends a favorable opinion of
the Wellington Chunnel, and, which is of far more
consequence, intimated his opinion ofHcially, and be-
fore the expedition was determined upon, that this
strait seemed to offer tlie best chance of success.

Moreover, Capt. Fitzjamcs, his immediate second in
command in the Erebus, was strongly in favor of the
Wellington Channel, and alwavs so expressed himself.
See his letter, before quoted, to Sir John Harrow, p. 203.

Who can doubt that t- e opinion of Cant. Fitzjames,
a man of superior mind, l)elo ved by all wno knew him,
and in the service "the observe d of .i!l observers," would
have great weight with Su* Johi? Frank'm, e en if Sir
John had not been himself predisposed < • listen to him.
What adds confirmation to thtae view . i^, that in 1840,
a few years prior to the starting of the expedi* )n. Col.
Sabine published the deeply inccie^vlng "rfanutivc of
Baron Wrangel's Expedition to the Polar Sea, under-
taken between the years 1820 and 1823," and iuhis pro
face the translator points to the Wellington ChaDncI as
the most likely course for the successful accomplishment
of the northwest passage. "S itting aside," he says,
" the possibility ot the existence of unknown land, the
probability of an open sea existing to the north of the
rarry islands, and communicating with Behring Strait,
appears to rest -on strict analogical reasoning." And
again he adds, ** all the attempts to effect the northwest
passage, since JBarrov.' \>i t>trait was first passed in 1819,
liave consisted in an endeavor to force a vessel by one
route or another throiigh this land-locked and ice-encum-
bered portion of the Polar Ocean."

Ko exarainat!^oii has made kuown what may bo the
state of the sea to the north of the Parry Islands;
whether' wmilar impediments may there present them-
selves to navigation, or whether a sea may not there
exist offering no difficulties whatever of the Kind, as M.
Von Wrangel has shown to be the case to the north of
the Siberian Islands, and as by strict analogy we should
be justified in expecting.

Colonel Sabine is an officer of gi*eat scientific expe-

r*.

if:

250

PBOORESB OB' AKCTIC DISCOVEKT.

rience, and from liis having made several polar voya^jcs,
he has devoted great attention to all that relates to tnat
quarter. He was in constant communication with Sir
John Franklin when the expedition was fitting out, and
it is but reasonable to suppose that he would be some-
what guided bv his opinion.

We have, then, the opinions of Franklin himself.
Colonel Sabine, and Captain Fitzjames, all bearing on
this point, and wo must remember that Parry, who dis-
covered and named this channel, saw nothing when
passing and re-passing it, but a clear open sea to the
northward.

Lieut. S. Osborn, in a paper dated the 4:th of January,
1850, makes the following suggestions : —

"General opinion places the lost expedition to the
west of Cape Walker, and south of the latitude of Mel-
ville Island. The distance from Cape Bathurst to Banks'
Land is only 301 miles, and on reference to a chart it
will be seen that nowhere else does the American conti-
nent approach so near to the supposed position of Frank-
lin's expedition.

" Banks' Land bears fi'om Cape Bathurst N. 41° 49',
E. 302 miles, and there is reason to believe that in the
summer season a portion of this distance may be trav-
ersed in boats.

" Dr. Richardson confirms previous reports of the ice
being light on the coast east of the Mackenzie River to
Cape Bathurst, and informs us that the Esquimaux had
seen ' no ice to seaward for two moons.'

'* Every mile traversed northward by a party from
Cape Bathurst would be over that unknown space in
which traces of Franklin may be expected. It is advis-
able that such a second party be dispatched from Cape
Bathurst, in order that the prosecution of Dr. Rae's
examination of the supposed channel between Wollas-
ton and Victoria Lands may in no way be interfered
with, by his attention being called to the westward."

In March, 1848, the Admiralty announced their inten-
tion of rewarding the crews of any whaling ships that
brought accurate information of the missing expedition,

OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS.

i>l

with the sum of 100 guineas or more, according to cir- '
cumstances. Lady Irankiin also about the same time
offered rewards of 2000^. and 3000^., to be distributed
among the owner, officers, and crew discovering and
affording relief to her husband, or making extraordi-
nary exertions for the above object, and, if required,
bringing Sir John Franklin and his party to England.

In March, 1850, the following further rewards were
offered by the British government to persons of any
country : —

Ist. To any party or person who in the judgment of
the Board of Admiralty, shall discover and eSectually
relieve the crews of II. M. ships Erebus and Terror, the
sum of 20,000^., or,

2d. To any party or parties, &c., who shall discover
and effectually relieve any portion of the crews, or shall
convey such intelligence as shall lead to the relief of
any of the crew, the sum- of 10,000Z.

3d. To any party or parties who shall by virtue of
his or their efforts, first succeed in ascertaining their
fate, 10,000Z.

In a dispatch from Sir George Simpson to Mr. Kae,
dated Lachine, the 21st of January, 1850, he says : —

"If they be still alive, I feel satisfied that every effort
it may be in the power of man to make to succor them
will be exerted by yourself and the Company's officers
in Mackenzie River ; but should your late search have
unfortunately ended in disappointment, it is the desire
of the Company that ^ou renew your explorations next
summer, if possible.

" By the anftexed correspondence you will observe that
the opinion in England appears to be that our explora-
tions ought to be more particularly directed to that por-
tion of the Northern Sea lying between Cape Walker
on the east, Melville Island and Banks' Land to the
north, and the continental shore or the Victoria Islands
to the south.

" As these limits are believed to embrace the course
that would have been pursued by Sir John Franklin,
Cape Walker being one of the points he was particu-

!
i

■>■*

252

PKOORESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

larly instructed to make for, you will therefore be
pleased, immediately on the receipt of this letter, to lit
out another exploring party, to proceed in the direction
above indicated, but varying the route that may have
been followed last summer, which party, besides their
own examination of the coast and islands, should be
instructed to ofter liberal rewards to the Esquimaux to
search for some vestiges of the missing expedition, and
similar rewards should be offered to the Indians inhab
iting near the coast and Peel's River, and the hali-bred
, hunters of Mackenzie River, the latter being, perhaps,
more energetic than the former ; assuring them that
whoever may procure authentic intelligence will be
largely rewarded.

" Simultaneously with the expedition to proceed to-
ward Cape Walker, one or two small parties should bo
dispatched to the westward of the Mackenzie, in the
direction of Point Barrow, one of which might pass over
to the Youcon River, and descending that stream to the
sea, carry on their explorations in that quarter, while
the other, going down the Mackenzie, might trace the
coast thence toward the Youcon. And these parties
must also be instructed to offer rewards to the natives
to prosecute the search in all directions.

** By these means there is reason to believe that in
the course of one year so minute a search may be made
of the coast and the islands, that in the event of the
expedition having passed in that direction, some trace
of their progress would certainly be discovered.

" From your experience in arctic discovery, and pe-
cul'ar qualifications for such an undertaking, I am in
hopes you may be enabled yourself to assume the
command of the party to proceed to the northward ;
and, as leaders of the two parties to explore the coast
to the westward of the Mackenzie, you will have to
select such officers of the Company's service within
the district as ma^ appear best qualified for the duty :
Mr. Murray, I think, would be a very fit man for one
of the leaders, and if one party b© sent by way of the
Youcon, he might take charge of it. In the event of

OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS.

253

your going on this expedition, you will be pleased to
make over the charge of the district to Chief Trader
Bell during your absence.

"In case you may be short-handed, I have by this
conveyance instructed Chief Factor Ballenden to en-
gage in Red River ten choice men, accustomed to boat-
ing, and well fitted for such a duty as will be required
of them ; and if there be a chance of their reaching
Mackenzie River, or even Athabasca, before the break-
ing up of the ice, to forward them immediately.

" Should the season, however, be too far advanced
to enable them to accomplish the journey by winter
traveling, Mr. Ballenden is directed to increase the
party to fourteen men, with a guide to be dispatched
from Red River immediately after the opening of the
navigation, in two boats, laden with provisions and
flour, and a few bales of clothing, in order to meet, in
some degree, the heavy drain that will be occasioned
on our resources in provisions and necessary supplies
in Mackenzie River. The leader of this party from
Red River may, perhaps, be qualified to act as the
conductor of one of the parties to examine the coast
to the westward."

On the 5th of February, 1850, another consultation
took place at the Admiralty among those officers most
experienced in these matters, and their opinions in
writing were solicited. It is important, therefore, to
submit these as fully as possible to the consideration
of the reader.

The first is the report of the hydrographer of the
Admiralty, dated the 29th of January, 1850: —

" Memorandum hy JRea/r- Admiral Sir Francis Beau-
fort, K. a B,

"The Behring's Strait expedition being at length
wiirly off, it appears to me to be a duty to submit to
their Lordships that no time should now be lost in
equipping another set of vessels to renew the search
on the opposite side, through Baffin's Bay ; and this
being the fifth year that the Erebus and Terror have

i
I

t.'

254

rnooREss of arctic discovery.

been absent, and probably reduced to only casual sup-
plies of food and fuel, it may be assumed that this
search should be so complete and effectual as to leave
unexamined no place in which, by any of the supposi-
tions that have been put forward, it is at all likely they
may be found.

" Sir John Franklin is not a man to treat his orders
M'ith levity, and therefore his first attempt was un-
doubtedly made in the direction of Melville Island, and
not to the westward. If foiled in that attempt, ho
naturally hauled to the southward, and using Banks'
Land as a barrier against the northern ice, he would
try to make westing under its lee. Thirdly, if both of
these roads were found closed against his advance, he
perhaps availed himself of one of the four passages
between the Parry Islands, including the Wellington
Channel. Or, lastly, he may have returned to Baffin's
Bay and taken the inviting opening of Jones' Sound.

" All those four tracks must therefore be diligently
examined before the search can be called complete,
and the only method of rendering that examination
prompt and efficient will be through the medium of
steam ; while only useless expense and reiterated dis-
appointment will attend the best efforts of sailing ves-
sels, leaving the lingering survivors of the lost ships^
as well as their relatives in England, in equal despair.
Had Sir James Ross been in a steam vessel, he would
not have been surrounded with ice and swept out of
the Strait, but by shooting under the protection of Leo-
pold Island, he would have waited there till that fatal
field had passed to the eastward, and he then would
have found a perfectly open sea np to Melville Island.

"The best application of steam to ice-going vesselt
would be Ericson's screw ; but the screw or paddles of
any of our moderate-sized vessels might be made t(
elevate with facility. Vessels so fitted would not re-
quire to be fortified in an extraordinary degree, not
more than common whalers. From the log-like quies-
cence with which a sailing vessel must await the crush
of two approaching floes, they must be as strong aa

OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS.

255

wood and iron can make them ; but the steamer slips
out of the reach of the collision, waits till the shock is
past, and then profiting by their mutual recoil, darts
at once through the transient opening.

"Two such vessels, and each of them attended by
two tenders laden with coals and provisions, would be
Buflicient ior the main lines of search. Every promi-
nent point of land where notices might have been left,
would be visited, details of their own proceedings would
be deposited, and each of the tenders would bo left in
proper positions, as points of rendezvous on which to
fall back.

"Besides these two branches of the expedition, it
would be well to allow the whaling captain (Penny,) to
carry out his proposed undertaking. His local knowl-
edge, his thorougn acquaintance with all the mysteries
of the ice navigation, and his well known skill and
resources, seem to point him out as a most valuable
auxiliary.

" But whatever vessels may be chosen for this service,
I would beseech their lordsnips to expedite them ; all
our attempts have been deferred too long ; and there is
now reason to believe that very early in the season, in
May or even in April, Baffin's Bay may be crossed be-
fore the accumulated ice of winter spreads over its
surface. If they arrive rather too soon, they may very
advantageously await the proper moment in some of
the Greenland harbors, preparing themselves for the
coming efforts and struggles, and procuring Esquimaux
interpreters.

" In order to press every resource into the service of
this noble enterprise, the vessels should be extensively
furnished with means for blasting and splitting the ice,
perhaps circular saws might be adapted to the steamers,
a launch to each party, with a small rotary engine,
sledges for the shore, and light boats with sledge bear-
ings for broken ice-fields, balloons for the distribution
of advertisements, and kites for the explosion of lofty
fire-balls. And, lastly, they should have vigorous and
numerous crews, so tnat when detachments are away,

' -

':!
ii

25G

ntOORESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

otlier operations should not be intermitted for want of
physical strengtli.

" As the council of the Ro^al Society, some time ago,
thought proper to remind their lordships of the propriety
of instituting this search, it would be lair now to call oii
tiiat learned body for all the advice and suggestions,
that science and philosophy can contribute toward the
accomplishment of the great object on which the eyes
of all England and indeed of all the world, are now
entirely hxed."

Captain Beechey, writing to the Secretary of the Ad-
miralty, 7th of February, 1850, says : —

" The urgent nature of the case alone can justify the
use of ordinary steamers in an icy sea, and great pru-
dence and judgment will bo required on the part of
their commanders, to avoid being disabled by collision
and pressure.

" 1 would also add, as an exception, that I think Leo-
pold Island and Cape Walker, if possible, should both
be examined, prior to any attempt being made to pene-
trate in other directions from Barrow's Strait, and that
the bottom of Regent Inlet, about the Pelly Islands,
should not be left unexamined. In the memorandum
submitted to their lordships on the 17th of January,
1849, this quarter was considered of importance ; and
I am still ot opinion, that, had Sir John Franklin aban-
doned his vessels near the coast of America, and much
short of the Mackenzie River, he would have preferred
the probability of retaining the use of his boats until
he found relief in Barrow's Strait, to risking an over-
land journey via the before-mentioned river ; it must
be remembered, that at the time he sailed. Sir George
Back's discovery had rendered it very probable that
Boothia was an island.

" An objection to the necessity of- this search seems
to be, that had Sir John Franklin taken that route, he
would have reached Fury Beach already. However, I
cannot but think there will yet be found some good
grounds for the Esquimaux sketch, and that their mean-
ing has been misunderstood ; and as Mr. M'Cormick is

OPINIONS OF ARCTIC "OTAOERS.

257

aut of

le ago,
jpriety
call on
Bstions,
ard the
lie eyes
re now

;lie Ad-

itify the
jat pni-
part of
jollibiou

nk Leo-
dd both
to pene-
mci that
Islands,
iranduin
anuary,
;o; and
lin aban-
id much
•referred
tts until
Ian over-
it must
George
Ible that

Ih seems
[oute, he
ever, I

le good
hr mean-

rmick is

an enterprising person, whose name has already been
before their lorclships, I would submit, whether a boat
expedition from Leopold Depot, under his direction,
would not satisfactorily set at rest all inquiry upon this,
now the onljr quarter unprovided for."

Captain Sir W. E. Parry states : —

"I am decidedly of opinion that the main search
should be renewed in the direction of Melville Island
and Banks' Land, including as a part of the plan the
thorough examination of Wellington Strait and of the
other similar openings between the islands of the group
bearing my name. I entertain a crowing conviction of
the probabilitjr of the missing ships, or at least a con-
siderable portion of the crews, being shut up at Mel
villo Island, Banks' Land, or in that neigliborhood,
agreeing as I do with Rear Admiral Sir Francis Beau-
fort, in Ti'3 report read yesterday to the Board that * Sir
John Franklin is not a man to treat his orders with
levity,' which he would be justly chargeable with doing
if he attached greater weight to any notions he might
personally entertain than to the Admiralty instructions,
M'hich he well knew to be founded on the experience of
former attempts, and on the best information which
could then be obtained on the subject. For these rea-
sons I can scarcely doubt that he woidd emj^loy at least
two seasons, those of 184:5 and 1846, in an unremitting
attempt to penetrate directly westward or south westward
to Behring's Strait.

" Supposing this conjecture to be correct, nothing can
be more likely than that Sir John Franklin's ships, hav-
ing penetrated in seasons of ordinary temperature a
considerable distance in that direction, have been locked
up by successive seasons of extraordinary rigor, thus
baffling the efforts of their weakened crews to escape
from the ice in either of the two directions by Behring's
or Barrow's Straits.

"And here I cannot but add, that my own conviction
of this probability — for it is only with probabilities
that we have to deal — has been greatly strengtlumed
by a letter I have lately received from Col. Sabine, of

• ij

' 1

.If

258

PKOORKSS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

the Royal Artillery, of which I had the honor to sub-
mit a copy to Sir Francis Baring. Colonel Sabine
having accompanied two successive expeditions to Baf-
fin's Bay, including that under mv command which
reached Melville Island, I consider his views to be well
worthy of their lordships' attention on this part of the
subject.

"It must be admitted, however, that considerable
weight is due to the conjecture which has been offered
by persons capable of forming a sound judgment, that
having failed, as I did, in the attempt to penetrate west-
ward. Sir John Franklin might deem it prudent to re-
trace his steps, and was enabled to do so, in order to try
a more northern route, either through Wellington Strait
or some other of those openings between the Parry
Islands to which I have already referred. And this idea
receives no small importance from the fact, (said to be
beyond a doubt,) of Sir John Franklin having, before
his departure, expressed such an intention in case of
failing to the westward.

"I cannot, therefore, consider the intended search to
be complete without making the examination of Wel-
lington Strait and its adjacent openings a distinct part
of the plan, to be performed by one portion of the
vessels which I shall presently propose for the main
expedition.

" Much stress has likewise been laid, and I think not
altogether without reason, on the propriety of search-
ing Jones' and Smith's Sounds in the northwest parts of
Baffin's Bay. Considerable interest has lately been at-
tached to Jones' Sound, from the fact of its having been
recently navigated by at least one enterprising whaler,
and found to be of great width, free from ice, with a
swell from the westward, and having no land visible from
the mast-head in that direction. It seems more than
probable, therefore, that it may be found to communi-
cate with Wellington Strait ; so that if Sir John Frank-
lin's ships have been detained anywhere to the north-
ward of the Parry Islands, it would be by Jones' Sound
that he would probably endeavor to eflect his escape,

OriNIOKS AND SUGQESTIONb.

259

rather than by the less direct route of Barrow's Strait.
I do not nivself attach much importance to the idea of
Sir John Franklin having so far retraced his steps as
to come back through Lancaster Sound, and recom-
mence his enterprise by entering Jones' Sound ; but
the possibility of his attempting his escape through
this iine opening, and the report, (though somewhat
vague,) of a cairn of stones seen by one of the whalers
on a headland within it, seems to me to render it highly
expedient to set this question at rest by a search in
this direction, including the examination of Smith's
Sound also."

I beg to cite next an extract from the letter of Dr. Sir
John liichardson to the Secretary of the Admiralty : —

'''•Ilaslar Hospital^ Gosport^^th of February ^ 1850.

" "With respect to the direction in which a successful
search may be predicated with the most confidence,
very various opinions have been put forth ; some have
supposed either that the ships were lost before reaching
Lancaster Sound, or that Sir John Franklin, finding an
impassable barrier of ice in the entrance of Lancaster
Sound, may have sought for a passage through Jones'
Sound. I do not feel inclined to give much weight to
cither conjecture. When we consider the strength of
the Erebus and Terror, calculated to resist the strongest
pressure to which ships navigating BaflBn's Bav have
been known to be subject, in conjunction with the fact
that, of the many whalers which nave been crushed or
abandoned since the commencement of the fishery, the
crews, or at least the greater part of them, have, in
almost every case, succeeded in reaching other ships, or
the Danish settlements, we cannot believe that the two
discovery ships, which were seen on the edge of the
middle ice so early as the 26th of July, can have been
so suddenly and totally overwhelmea as to preclude
some one of the intelligent oflicers, whose minds were
prepared for every emergency, with their select crews
of men, experienced in 3ie ice, from placing a boat on
the ice or water, and thus carrying intelligence of tho

.■J

4 \

2C0

mOORESS OF AIICTIC DISCOVERY.

disaster to one of the many whalers which remained for
two months after that date in those seas, and this in tlio
absence of any unusual catastrophe among the fishing
vessels that season.

" "With respect to Jones' Sound, it is admitted by all
who are intimately acquainted with Sir John Franklin,
that his first endeavor would be to act up to the letter
of his instructions, and that therefore ne would not
lightly abandon the attempt to pass Lancaster Sound.
From the logs of the whalers year after year, we learn
that when once they have succeeded in rounding tlie
middle ice, they enter Lancaster Sound with facUity :
had Sir John Franklin, then, gained that Sound, and
from the premises we appear to be fully justified in
concluding that he did so, and had he afterward en-
countered a compact field of ice, barring Barrow's
Strait and Wellington Sound, he would then, after be-
ing convinced that he would lose the season in attempt
ing to bore through it, have borne up for Jones' Sound,
but not until he had erected a conspicuous landmark,
and lodged a memorandum of his reason for deviating
from his instructions.

"The absence of such a signal-post in Lancaster
Sound is an argument against the expedition having
turned back from thence, and is, on the other hand, a
strong support to the suspicion that Barrow's Strait wiT^
as open in 1845 as when Sir W. E. Parry first passed
it in 1819 ; that, such being the case, Sir John Frank
lin, without delay and without landing, pushed on to
Cape "Walker, and that, subsequently, in endeavoring
to penetrate to the southwest, he became involved in
the drift ice, which, there is reason to believe, urged
by the prevailing winds and the set of the flood tides,
is carried toward Coronation Gulf, through channels
more or less intricate. Should he have found no open-
ing at Cape "Walker, he would, of course, have sought
one further to the west ; or, finding the southerly and
westerly opening blocked by ice, he might have tried a
northern passage.

" In either case, the plan of search propounded by

OPINIONS AND HU(JGL8TlONH.

261

en-

Sir FmnciH l>caufort Roonm to provide nf^'Jiinst overv'
contingency, cHpeciiilly when taken in conjunction with
Ciinttiin Collinnon's expedition, via lieliring'a Strait,
and the hoat parties from the Mackenzie.

" I do not venture to offer an opinion on the Btrcngtli
or equipment of tlie vessels to be employed, or other
merely nautical questions, further than by remarking,
that the use of the small vessels, which forms part of
Sir Francis Beaufort's scheme, is supported by the suc-
cess of the early navigators with their very small craft,
and the late gallant exploit of Mr. Shedden, in round-
ing Icy Capo and Point Barrow, in the J^ancy Dawson
yacht.

" And further, with respect to the comparative merits
of the paddles and screw in the arctic seas, I beg leave
merely to observe, that as long as the screw is immersed
in water it will continue to act, irrespective of the tern
peraturo of the air ; but when, as occurs late in tiio
autumn, the atmosphere is suddenly cooled below tho
freezing point of sea water, by a northerly gale, while
the sea itself remains warmer, the i)addles will bo
speedily clogged by ice accumulating on the floats as
tliey rise through the air in every revolution. An in-
cident recorded by Sir James C. lloss, furnishes a strik-
ing illustration of the powerful action of a cold wind ;
I allude to a fish having been thrown u]> by the spray
Jigainst the bows of the Terror, and firmly frozen there,
during a gale in a high southerly latitude. Moreover,
even with the aid of a ready contrivance for topping
the ])addle8, the flatness or hollowness of the sides of a
paddle steamer renders her less fit for sustaining pres-
sui'e ; the machinery is more in the way of oblique
beams for strengthening, and she is less efficient as a
sailing vessel when the steam is let off."

Memorandum inclosed in Dr. WCormiclc's Letter
of the 1st of January^ 1850.

" In the month of April last, I laid before my Lords
Commissioners of the Admiralty a plan of search for
the missing expedition under the command of Captain

202

rU«)(JKi:M OK AKC-' f ;;:ytON KliV.

Sir John Frmiklin, hy inetuiB of ii liont expedition up
JoneH^ and Sniitli^b bouudB, voluntoering niyeelf to
conduct it.

*^ In tiiiitplan I stated tlio reasons which had induced
mo to direct my attention more especially to the open-
ings at the Iiead of l^afiin^s 13ay, whicli, at the time,
were not included within the general scheme of search.

"Wellington Channel, however, of all the ])robal)lo
openings into the l*olar Sea, possesses the higliept de-
gree of interest, and the exploration of it is of such
paramount importance, that 1 should most unquestion-
ably have comprised it within my plan of search, had
not Her Majesty's ships Enterprise and Investigator
been employed at the time in Barrow's Strait for the
express purpose of examining this inlet and Capo
Walker, two of the most essential ix^ints of search in
the whole track of the Erebits and Terror to the west-
ward ; being those points at the very threshold of his
ontei^prise, from which Sir John Franklin would take
his departure from the known to the unknown, whether
lie shaped a southwesterly course from the latter, or
attempted the passag^o in a higher latitude from the
former point.

" The return of the sea expedition from Port Leo-
pold, and the overland one from the Mackenzie River,
both alike unsuccessful in their search, leaves the fate
of the gallant Franklin and his companions as })Foblc-
matical as ever ; in fact, the case stands precisely as it
did two years ago ; the work is yet to bo begun ; every
thing remains to bo accomplished.

" In renewal of the search in the ensuing spring,
more would be accomplished in boats than in any other
way, not only by Behring^s Strait, but from the east-
ward. For the difficulties attendant on icy navigation
which form so insuperable a barrier to the progress of
ships, would be readily surmounted by boats ; by means
of which the coast line may be closely examined for
cairns of stones, under which Sir John Franklin would
most indubitably deposit memorials of his progress
^n all prominent positions, as opportunities might offer.

Ol'lNluNH AM> bUUULUTlONti.

203

Lco

"Tho diricovery of one of these nioiiiciitort wmiM, in
a i probability, atiord a clue that iiii^ht lead to the rcH-
ctic of our cntorpriHiiig countrymen, ere anotintr and
sixth winter close in upon them, should they be still
in oxistonco ; and the time has not yet arrived for aban-
doning hope.

"In renewing once more the oflfer of my services,
which r do most cheerfully, I see no reason for chang-
ing the opinions I entertained last sprin<^; Hu1)se<[ueiit
events have only tended to conlirm them. I then be-
lieved, and I do so still, after a long and nuiturc con-
sideration of the subject, that Sir John Franklin's shipd
have been arrested in a high latitude, and beset in tifu
heavy polar ice northward of the Parry Islands, and
that their probable course thither has been through the
Wellington Channel, or one of the sounds at the north-
ern extremity of Baffin's Bay.

"This ai)pears to mo to be the only view of the case
that can in any way account for the entire absence oi'
all tidings of them throughout so protracted a period
of time (unless all have perished by some sudden and
overwhelming catastrophe.)

"Isolated as their position would be under snch cir-
cumstances, any attempt to reach the continent of
America at such a distance would be hopeless in the
extreme : and the mere chance of any party from the
fillips reaching the top of Baffin's Bay at the very mo-
ment of a whaler's brief and uncertain visit would bo
Attended with by far too great a risk to justify the at-
tempt, for failure would insure inevitable destruction
to the whole party; therefore their only alternative
would be to keep together in their ships, should no dis-
aster have happened to them, and by husbanding their
remaining resources, eke them out with whatever wild
animals may come within their reach.

" Had Sir John Franklin been able to shape a south-
westerly course from Cape Walker, as directed by his
instructions, the probability is, some intelligence of
him would have reached this country ere this, (nearly
five years Laving already elapsed since his departm-e

264

rtiOGKESS OF AKCTIC DISCOVERY.

from it.) Parties would have been sent out from his
ships, either in the direction of the coast of America
or Barrow's Strait, whichever happened co be the most
accessible. Esquimaux would have been fallen in
with, and tidings of the long-absent expedition have
been obtained.

" Failing in penetrating beyond Cape "Walker, Sir
John Franklin would have left some notice of his fu-
ture intentions on that spot, or the nearest accessible
one to it ; and should he then retrace his course for the
Wellington Channel, the most probable conjecture, he
would not pass up that inlet without depositing a fur-
ther account of his proceedings, either on the western
or eastern point of the entrance to it.

" Therefor t^ should my proposal meet with their
Lordships' approbation, I would most respectfully sub-
mit, that the party I have volunteered to conduct
should be landed at the entrance to the Wellington
Channel, or the nearest point attainable by any ship
that their Lordships may deem fit to employ in a fu-
ture search, consistently with any other services that
ship may have to perform ; and should a landing bo
eifected on the eastern side, I would propose commenc-
ing the search from Cape Riley or Beechey Island in
a northeriy direction, carefully examining every re-
markable headland and indentation of the western
coast of North Devon for memorials of the missing ex-
pedition; I would then cross over the Wellington
Channel and continue the search along the northern
shore of Cornwallis Island, extending the exploration
to the westward as far as the remaining portion of tlio
season would permit, so as to secure the retreat of the
party before the winter set in, returning either by the
eastern or western side of Cornwallis Island, as cir-
cumstances might indicate to be the most desirable at
the time, after ascertaining the general extent and
trending of the shores of that island.

"As, however, it would be highly desirable that
Jones' Bound should not be omitted in the search, more
especially ae a whaler, last season, reached its entrance

OPlNIOxSS AND SUOGESTIOInP.

2f)5

and reported it open, I would furlner pffo^pose, that tlie
ship conveying the exploring party out should look into
this opening on her way to Lancaster Sound, if circum-
stances permitted of her doing so early in the season ;
and, if found to be free from ice, the attempt might be
made by the boat expedition to push through it to the
westward in this latitude ; and should it prove to be
an opening into the Polar Sea, of which I think there
can be little doubt, a great saving of time and distance
would be accomplished. Failing in this, the ship should
be secm'ed in some central position in the vicinity of
the Wellington Channel, as a point d^appui to tall back
upon in the search from that quarter.

(Signed,) K. M'Coemick, K. N.

" Twickenham^ 1st of Janua/ry^ 1850."

Outline of a Plan of an Overland Journey to the
Polar Sea, hy the Way of the Coppermine Biver,
in Search of Sir John M'anMin^s Mopediticm, sug-
gested in 1*84:7.

" If Sir John Franklin, guided by his instructions,
has passed through Barrow's Strait, and shaped a south-
westerly course, from the meridian of Cape "Walker,
with the intention of gaining the northern coast ®i the
continent of America, and so passing through the Dol-
phin and Union Strait, along the shore of that conti-
nent, to Behring's Strait;

" His greatest risk of detention by the ice through-
out this course would be found between the parallels of
74° and 69° north latitude, and the meridians of 100°
and 110° west longitude, or, in other words, that por-
tion of the northwest passage which yet remains unex-
plored, occupying the space between the western coast
of Boothia ou the one side, and the island or islands
forming Banks' and Victoria Lands on the other.

" Should the Erebus and Terror have been beset in
the heavy drift-ice, or wrecked among it and the bro-
ken land, which in all probability exists there while
contending with the prevalent westerly winds in this
quarter ;

2b«5

PKOGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

" Tbo Coppermine River would decidedly offer tho
most direct route and nearest approach to that portion
of the Polar Sea, and, after crossing Coronation Gulf,
the average breadth of the Strait between the Conti
nent and Victoria Land is only about twenty-two miles.

" From this point a careful search should be com-
menced in the direction of Banks' Land ; the interven-
ing space between it and Yictoria Land, occupying
about five degrees, or little more than 300 miles, could,
I think, be accomplished in one season, and a retreat to
winter quarters effected before the winter set in. As
the ice m tlie Coppermine River breaks up in June,
the searching party ought to reach the sea by the be-
ginning of August, which would leave two of the best
months of the year for exploring the Polar Sea, viz :
August and September.

" As it would be highly desirable that every available
day, to the latest period of the season, should be de-
voted to the search, I should propose wintering on the
coast in the vicinity of the mouth of the Coppermine
River, which would also afford a favorable position
from which to recommence the search in the following
spring, should the first season prove unsuccessful.

" Of course the object of sucn an expedition as I have
proposed is not with the view of taking supplies to such
a numerous party as Sir John Franklin has under his
command ; but to find out his position, and acquaint
bim where a depot of provisions would be stored up
for himself and crews at my proposed winter quarters,
where a party should be left to build a house, establish
a fishery, ana hunt for game, during the absence of the
searching party.

" To carry out this plan efficiently, the Hudson's Bay
Company should be requested to lend their powerful
cooperation in furnishing guides, supplies of pemmican,
&c., for the party on their route and at winter quarters.
Without entering into details here, I may observe, that
I should consider one boat, combining the necessary
requisites in L3r construction to fit her for either the
river navigation, or that of the shores of the Polar Sea,

Bay

erful

ican,

'ters.

that

sary

the

Sea,

OnXIONS AND SUGGESTIONS.

207

would be quite sufficient, with a crew one lialf sailors,
and the other half Canadian boatmen ; the latter to be
engaged at Montreal, for which place I would propose
leaving England in tlie montii of February.

" Sliould such an expedition even fail in its main ob-
ject — tlic discovery ot the position of the missing ships
and their crews, the long-sought-for polar passage may
be accomplished.

(Signed,) R. M'Coemick, R. N.

" Woolwich, 1847."

Copy of a Letter froin Lieutenant Sherard Oshorn to
the Lords Commissioners of the . idiriiralty.

" Ealing, Middlesex, 4:th January, 1850.

" My IjOrds, — A second attempt to reach Sir John
Franklin's expedition being about to be tried during
tlie present year, I take the liberty of calling your at-
tention to the inclosed proposition for an overland party
to be dispatched to the shores of the Polar Sea, with a
view to their traversing the short distance between Capo
Bathurst and Banks' L{i.id. My rcasonr. f-T thus tres-
passing on your attention ;-v. 3 a-^ follows ;

"1st. General opiincn ]>]accs the lost expedition to
tl.o west of Cape Walkei,, and rridh of iho li^itude of
Melville Island.

" The distance fro n Cape BaiJir.rst to Ba _i^s' Land
is only 301 miles, and on r< fercnce to a chart it will bo
seen that nowhere else does the American continent
approach so near to the supposed position of Franklin's
expedition,

" 2d. As a starting point. Cape Bathurst offers great
advantages ; the arrival of a ^'^rty sent there from
England may be calculated u^/v/xi tO a day ; whereas
the arrival of Captain Collinson in the longitude of
Cape Barrow, or that of an eastern expedition in Lan-
caster Soimd, will depend upon many uncontrollable
contingencies. The distance to bo performed is com-
paratively little, and the certainty of being able to fall
back upon supplies offers great advantages. Captain

"ft!"'

htf ' n

268

TKOaiiESS CF AlKrriC DI.SCO\'Ki:V.

Iji '|i

i& ■

CoUinson ■will have 680 miles of longitude to traverse
between Caj^e Barrow and Banks' Land. An Eastern
Expedition, if opposed hy the ice, (as -Sir James Ross
has been,) and nnable to proceed in their vessels farther
than Leopold Harbor, will have to journey on foot 330
miles to reach the lonr^itude of Banks' Land, and if
any accident occur to their vessels, they will be in as
critical a position as those they go to seek.

••' 3d. Banks' Land bears from Cape Bathurst N. 41°
49' E. 302 miles, and there is reason to believe that in
the summer season a portion of this distance may be
traversed in boats.

" i '\ and 5th. Dr. Richardson confirms previous re-
ports of the ice being light on the coast east of tiie
Mackenzie River to Oapp Bathurst, and informs us
that the Esquimaux had seen no ice to seaw^ard for tw< >
moons.

" 6th. Every mile traversed northward by a party
from Cape Bathurst would be over that unknown space
in which traces of Franklin may be expected.

" 7th. It is advisable that such a second party be
dispatched from Cape Bathurst, in order that the pros-
ecution of Dr. Rae's examination of the supposed chan-
nel between Wollaston and Victoria Lands may in no
way be interfered with by his attention being called to
the westward.

"8th. The caohes of provisions made at difterent
points of the Mackenzie and at Cape Bathurst, would
enable a party to push down to their starting point with
great celerity directly the River Mackenzie opens,
which may be as early as May.

*' I would also remind your Lordships that the pro-
posed expedition would carry into execution a very im-
portant clause in the instructions given to Sir James
Ross ; viz : that of sending exploring parties from
Banks' Land in a southwesterly direction toward Cape
Bathurst or Cape Parry.

" In conclusion, I beg to ofier my willing services to-
ward the execution of the proposed plan ; and seeking
it from no selfish motives, but thoroughly impressed

OPINI03S5 AND r^lQOESTIONS.

2G9

Jape

with its feasibility, you may rest assured, my lords,
should I have the honor of being sent upon this service,
that I shall not disappoint your expectations.
"I have, &c.,
.^Signed,) " Sheeaed Osborn, Lieut., R. N."

Coipy of a Letter from Colonel Sabine^ R. A., to Caj^-
tavn Sir W. Edward Parry.

" Castle-down Terra^ct^ Houttings^
" 15^A of Januar^j^ 185(>.

"There can be little doubt, I imagine, in the miud of
any one who has read attentively Franklin's instruc-
tions, and, (in reference to them,) your description of
the state of tlie ice and of tlie navigable water in 1819
and 1820, in the route which he was ordered to pursue;
still less, I think, can there oe a doubt in the mind of
any one who had the advantage of being with you in
those years, that Franklin, (ah/ays supposing no pre-
vious disaster,) must have made his way to the south-
west part of Melville Island either in 1845 or 1846. It
has been said that 1845 was an unfavorable season, and
as the navigation of Davis' Strait and Baffin's Bay was
liGW to Franklin, we may regard it as more probable
that it may have taken him two seasons to accomplish
what we accom]>iIshed in one. So far, I think, guided
by his instructions and by the experience gained in
1819 and 1820, we may reckon pretty confidently on
the first stage of his proceedings, and doubtless, in his
progress he would have left memorials in the usual
manner at places where he may have landed, some of
which would be likely to fall in the way of a vessel fol-
lowing in his track. From the west end of Melville
Island our inferences as to his further proceedings must
become more conjectural, being contingent on the state
of the ice and the existence of navigable water in the
particular ecnson. If he found tlie ocean, as we did,
covered to tiiP, west and south, as liar as the eye couhl
reach from llie summit of the highest hills, with ice of
a thickness unparalleled in anv other part of the Polar

ilii

ill

270

riiOGRKSS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

P"^:^^!!

S' f»>\ ^f'ji

Sea, he would, after probably waiting through one whole
Beason in the hope of some favorable change, have re-
traced his fiteps, in obedience to the second part of his
instructions, in order to seek an opening to the north
which might conduct to a more open sea. In this case
some memorial of the season passed by him at the
southwest end of Melville Island, and also of his pur-
pose of retracing his steps, would doubtless have been
left by him ; and should ho subsequently have found
an opening to the north, presenting a favorable appear-
ance, there also, should circumstances have permitted,
would a memorial have been Ijft.

" lie may, however, have found a more favorable
Btate of things at the southwest end of Melville Island
than we did, and may have been led thereby to at
tempt to fo) ce a passage for his ships in the direct lint*
of Behrin^^'s Strait, or perhaps, in the first instance, to
the south of that direction, namely, to Banks' Land
In such case two contingencies present themselves*
first, that in the season of navigation of 1817 he may
have made so much progress, that in 1848 he may have
preferred the endeavor to push through to Behring's
Strait, or to some western part of the continent, to an
attempt to return by the way of Barrow's Strait ; thu
mission of the Plover, the Enterprise, and the Inves-
tigator together with Dr. llae's expedition, supply, 1
presume, (^for I am but partially acquainted with their
instructions,) the most judicious means of affording re-
lief in this direction. There is, however, a second coii-
tiiig^ncj .; and it is the one which the impression left
on my mind b;- the nature and general aspect of the
icf.- in the twelve months which we ourselves passed at
the southwest end of Melville Island, compels me, iu
spite of my wishes, to regard as the more probable,
viz., that his advance from Melville Island in the sea-
eon of 1847 may have been limited to a distance of
fifty, or perhaps one hundred miles at farthest, and
that in 1848 he may have endeavored to retrace hi^
steps, but only with partial success. It is, I apprehend,
quite a conceivable case, that under these circumstances,

OPINIONS AND SUOOESTIONB.

271

hring ;s
to nil
; thu

con-
on left
of the
sed at
me, iu
biible,
le sea-
ice of
t, and
ce liis
jliend,
ances,

incapable of extricating the ships from the ice, the
crews may have been, at length, obliged to quit them,
and attempt a retreat, not toward the continent, because
too distant, but to Melville Island, where certainly
food, and probably fuel (seals,) might bo obtained, and
where they would naturally suppose that vessels dis-
patched from England for their relief would, in the
lirst instance, seek them. It is quite conceivable also,
I apprehend, that the circumstances might be such
that their retreat may have been made without their
boats, and probably in the April or May of IS-iO.

"Where the Esquimaux have lived, there Englishmen
may live, and no valid argument against the attempt
to relieve can, I think, be founded on the improbability
of finding Englishmen alive in 1850, who .may have
made a retreat to Melville Island in the spring of 1849 ;
nur would the view of the case be altered in any ma-
terial degree, if we suppose their retreat to Lave been
made in 1848 or 1849 to Banks' Land, which may
afford facilities of food and fuel equal or superior to
Melville Island, and a further retreat iu the following
year to the latter island as the point at which they
would more probably look out for succor.

" Without disparagement, therefore, to the attempts
made in other directions, I retain my original opinion,
which seems also to have been the opinion of the
Board of A(imiralty, by which Ross's instructions were
drawn up, that the most promising direction for re-
search would be taken by a vessel which should follow
them to the southwest point of Melville Island, be jn-e-
pared to winter there, and, if necessary, to send a
party across the ice in April or May to examine Banks'
Land, a distance (there and back) less than recently
accomplished by Ross in his land journey.

"I learn from Ross's dispatches, that almost imme-
diately after he got out of Port Leopold (1849,) he was
entangled in apparently interminable fields and tlooa
of ice, with which, in the course of the summer, ho
was drifted down through Barrow's Strait and Baffin's
Bay nearly to Davis' Strait. It is reasooftble to pro-

Li*

272

PROGRESn OF ARCTIC PISCOTERY.

Bumo, therefore, that the localities from whence thi^
ice drifted are likely to be less encumbered than usua
by accumulated ice in 1850. It is, of course, of the
highest importance to reach Barrow's Strait at the ear
liest possible period of the season ; and, connected witi
this point I learn from Captain Bird, whom I had tlu
pleasure of seeing here a few days ago, a very remark
able fact, that the ice which prevented their crossing
Baffin's Bay in 72° or 73° of latitude (as we did iii
1819, arriving in Barrow's Strait a month earlier than
we had done the preceding year, when we went round
by Melville Bay, and nearly a month earlier than Rtiss
did last year) was young ice, which had formed in the
remarkably calm summer of last year, and which the
absence of wind prevented their forcing a passage
through, on the one hand, while on the other, the ice
was not heavy enough for ice anchors. It was, he said,
not more than two or two and a half feet thick, and ol)-
viously of very recent formation. There must, there-
fore, liave been an earlier period of the season when
this part of the sea must have been free from ice ; and
this comes in confirmation of a circumstance of which
I was informed by Mr. Petersen (a Danish gentleman
eent to England some months ago by the Northern So-
ciety of Antiquaries of Copenhagen, to make extracts
from books and manuscripts in the British Museum,)
that the Northmen, who had settlementEu some centu-
ries ago on the west coast of Greenland, were in the
habit of crossing Baffin's Bay in the latitude of Uper-
navic in the spring of the year, for the purpose of fish-
ing in Barrow's Strait, from whence they returned in
August ; and that in the early months they generally
found the passage across free from ice.

" In the preceding remarks, I have left one contin-
gency unconsidered ; it is that which would have fol
lowed in pursuance of his instructions, if Franklin should
liavo found tlie aspect of the ice too imfavorablo to the
W'est and south of Melville Island to attempt to force a
passage tlirongh it, and should base retraced his ntepn
m liopes of iiii'ling a more ^^pen aea to the northward,

OPINIONS AND SnOOKSTIONfl.

273

Hither in Wellington Strait or elsewhere. It is quite
conceivable that licre also the expedition may have en-
countered, at no very great distance, insuperable ditti-
culties to their advance, and may have failed in accom-
plishing a return witli their ships. In this case, the
retreat of the crews, supposing it to have been nuide
across land or ice, would most probably be directed to
some part of the coast on the route to Melville Island,
on which route they would, without doubt, expect that
succor would be attempted."

Mr. Robert A. Goodsir, a brother of Mr. 11. D. Good-
sir, the assistant-surgeon of Sir John Franklin's ship,
the Erebus, left Stromness, as surgeon of the Advice,
whaler, Capt. Penny, on the 17th of March, 1849, in
the hopes of gaining some tidings of his brother ; but
returned unsuccesstul after an eight months' voyage,
lie has, however, published a very interesting little
narrative of the icy regions and of his arctic voyage.

In a letter to Lady Franklin, dated Edinburgh, 18th
of January, 1850, he says : — " I trust you are not allow-
ing yourself to become over-anxious. I know that,
although there is much cause to be so, there is still not
the slightest reason that we should despair. It may be
presumptuous in me to say so, but I have never lor a
moment doubted as to their ultimate safe return, having
always had a sort of presentiment that I would meet my
brother and his companions somewhere in the regions
in which their adventures are taking place. This nope
I have not yet given up, and I trust tnat by next sum-
mer it may be ftilfilled, when an end will be put to the
suspense which has lasted so long, and which must have
tripd you so much."

The arctic regions, far from being so destitute of ani-
mal life as might be supposed from the bleak and inhos-
Eitable character of the climate, are proverbial for the
oundless profusion of various species of the animal
kingdom, which arc to be mot witli in different locali-
ties during a great part of the year.

The air is often darkened by innumerable flocks of
arctic and blue gulls, {Lestris Parasiticus^ and Lariis

274

I»R()ORKSS OF AllCTIC DISCOVERY.

glaucusi) tho ivory gull or 8no^*-bird, {Larua chtnieuSj)
the kittiwake, the tulmar or poirel, snow ceese, terns,
couiis, dovckicc, iSzc. The cetaceou.s anitTiRlH conmriRC
the great Greenland whale, {Balmna r/iyaticetus^) the
sea unicorn or narwhal, {Moiiodon monoceros^ tho
white whale or beluga, (Delpldnua leucos,) tho morse
or walrus, (Trlchecus rosmarua^ and the seal. There
are also plenty of porpoises occasionally to be met with,
and although these animals may not be the best of food,
yet tliey can bo eaten. Of the land animals I may in-
stance tho polar bear, the musk-ox, the reindeer, tho
arctic fox and wolves.

Parry obtained nearly 40001b8. weight of animal food
during his winter resiaence at Melville Island ; Ross
nearly tho same quantity from birds alone when winter-
ing at Port Leopold.

In 1719, the crews of two Hudson's Bay vessels, the
Albany and Discovery, a ship and sloop, under the
command of Mr. Barlow and Mr. Knight, were cast on
shore on Marble Island, and it was subsequently ascer-
tained that some of the party supported life for nearly
three years. Mr. Hearne learneu the particulars from
some of the Esquimaux in 1729. The ship it appeared
went on shore in the fall of 1719 ; the party being then
in number about fifty, began to build their house for
the winter. As soon as the ice permitted in the follow-
ing summer the Esquimaux paid them another visit, and
found tho number of sailors much reduced, and very
unhealthy.

Sickness and famine occasioned such havoc among
them that by the petting in of the second winter, their
number was reduced to twenty. Some of the Esqui-
maux took up their abode at this period on the opposite
side of the harbor, and supplied them with what provis-
ions they could spare in the shape of blubber, seal's
fl^sh, and train oil.

The Esquimaux left for their wanderings in the
spring, and on revisiting the island in the summer of
1721, only five of the crews were found alive, and these
were so ravenous for food, that they devoured the blub-

ABUNDANCK or ANIMAL FOOD MIT WITH.

07 r

eir
ui-
ite

ds-

the
of

l)cr and bquVh ilesli mw, as they jnirchasod it of tho
nativos, •Nvhieli proved so injurious in their weak state,
tliat three of tlieni (li«i(l in a few days. Tlio two sur-
vivors, though very weak, managed to bury their com-
rades, and protracted their existence for some days
lonfjer.

"They frequently," in the •words of the narraMve,
•'went to the top of an adj^ent rock, and earnestly
looked to the sou^lt and east, as if in expectation of*sonie
vessels coming ^ leir relief. After continuing tlii^ro
a considerable tmio, and nothing appearing in sight,
they sat down close together, and wept bitterly. At
length one of the two died, and the other's strength was
so far exhausted, that ho fell down and died also in
attcnnpting to dig a grave for his companion. The skulls
and otlier large bones of these two men are now lying
al)ove grounff close to the house."

Sir John Richardson, speaking of tho amount of food
to be obtained in the polar region, says, " Deer migrate
over the ice in the spring from the main shore to Vic-
toria and Wollaston Lands in large herds, and return in
the autumn. These lands are also the breeding places
of vast flocks of snow geese ; so that with ordinary
skill in hunting, a largo supply of food might be pro-
cured on their shores, in the months of June, July, and
August. Seals are also numerous in those seas, and
are easily shot, their curiosity rendering them a ready
prey to a boat party." In these ways and by fishing,
the stock of provisions might be greatly augmented —
and wo have the recent example of Mr. Kae, who
passed a severe winter on the very barren shores of
Repulse Bay, with no other fuel than the withered tufts
of a herbaceous andromada, and maintained a numer-
c»us party on the spoils of the chase alone for a whole
year. Such instances, forbid us to lose hope. Should
Sir John Franklin's provisions become so far inade-
quate to a winter's consumption, it is not likely that ho
would remain longer by his ships, but rather that in
one body, or in several, the officers and crews, with
boats cut down so as to be light enough to drag over

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23 WEST MAIN STRiET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716) 872-4503

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27G

PROORESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

the ice, or built expressly for that purpose, would en-
deavor to make their way eastward to Lancaster Sound,
or southward to the main-land, according to the longi-
tude in which the ships were arrested.

We ought not to judge of the supplies of food that
can be procured in the arctic regions by diligent hunt-
ing, from the quantities that have been actually ob-
tained on the several es^^editions that have returned,
and consequently of the means of preserving life there.
When there was abundance in the ships, the address
arid energy of the hunting parties was not likely to be
called fortn, as they woula inevitably be when the exis-
tence of the crews depended solely on their personal
efforts, and formed their chief or only object in their
march toward quarters where relief might be looked
for. This remark has reference to the supposition that
on the failure of the stock of provisions in the ships,
the crews would, in separate parties under their officers,
seek for succor in several directions.

With an empty stomach, the power of resisting exter-
nal cold is greatly impaired ; out when the process of
digesting is going on vigorously, even with compara-
tively scanty clothing, the neat of the body is preserved.
There is in the winter time, in high latitudes, a craving
for fat or oleaginous food, and for such occasions the
flesh of seals, walruses, or bears, forms a useful article
of diet. Captain Cook says that the walrus is a sweet
and wholesome article of food. Whales and seals would
also furnish light and fuel. The necessity for increased
food in very cold weather, is not so great when the
people do not work.

Mr. Gilpin, in his narrative in the Nautical Maga-
zine for M!arch, 1850, writes thus : —

"About the 20th of June a small water bird, called
the doveky, had become so numerous, and so many
were daily shot by those who troubled themselves to go
after them, that shooting parties from each ship, con-
sisting of an officer and marine, were established at
Whaler Point, where they remained the whole week,
returning on board on Saturday night. In a week or

ADUNDAKCK OF ANIMAL FOOD MET WITH.

277

Laga-

jalled
lany
I to go
L con-
led at
reek,
bck or

so after this the coon, a much lieavier bird, became
more plentiful than the little doveky, and from this
time to the middle of August, so successful and untir-
ing were our sportsmen, that the crew received each a
bird per man a day.

" The account kept on board the Investigator showed
the number of birds killed to have amounted to about
4000, and yielding near 25001b8. of meat. But more
than tliis was obtained, as many were shot by individ-
uals for amusement, and not alwavs noted."

Mr. Goodsir, surgeon, when in the Advice whaler, on
her voyage up Lancaster Sound, in the summer of 18-40,
sjK'aking of landing on one of the WoUaston Islands, on
tlie west side of Wavy Board Inlet, says he disturbed
about half a dozen pairs of the eider-duck {/Somateria
mollissima.) Their eggs he found to be within a few
hours of maturity. There were, besides, numerous nests,
the occupants of which had probably winged their way
southward. Two brent geese, (Anser lernicla,) and a
single pair of arctic terns, {Sterna arctica^ were most
vociferous and courageous in defense of their downy
offspring wherever he approached. These were the
only birds he saw, with the exception of a solitary ra-
ven, {Corvus corax^ not very high overhead, whose
sharp and yet musically bell-like croak came startling
upon the ear.

Mr. Snow, in his account of the voyage of the Prince
Albert, p. 162, says, (speaking of Melville Bay, at the
northern head of Baffin's Bay,) " Innumerable quanti-
ties of birds, especially the little auk, {Alca alle^ and
the doveky, {Colymhus grylle,) were now seen, (Au-
gust 6th,) in every direction. They were to be ob-
served in thousands, on the wing and in the water,
and often on pieces of ice, where they were clustered
together so thick that scores might have been shot at a
time by two or three fowling pieces."

In passing up Lancaster Sound a fortnight later sev-
eral snoal of eider-ducks and large quantities of otl>*r
birds were also seen.

^(1 1

273

rROGREPS OF ARCTIC DIRCOVFRY.

A BALLAD OP SIR JOHN FRANKLIN.

" The ice waa here, the ice was there,
Tlio ico was all around." — Colkriock.

Whither sail you. Sir John Franklin ?

Cried a whiiler in Baffin's Bay ;
To know if between the land and the Pola^

I may find a broad sea-way.

I charge you back, Sir John Franklin,

As yoJ would live and thrive.
For between the land and the frozen P<^

No man may sail aliva

But lightly laughed the stout Sir John,

And spoke unto his men : —
Half England is wrong, if he is right ;

Bear off to westward then.

O, whither sail vou, brave Knglishraan t

Cried the little Esquimaux.
Between your land and the polar star

My goodly vessels go.

Come down, if you would journey there,

The little Inuian said ;
And change your cloth for fur clothing,

Your vessel for a sled.

But lightly laughed the stout Sir John,
And the crew laughed with him too ;

A sailor to change m>m ship to sled,
I ween, were something new !

All through the long, long polar day,

The vessels westward sped ;
And wherever the sail of Sir John was blown.

The ice gave way and fled.

Gave mj with many a hollow groan.

And with many a surly roar ;
But it murmured and threatened on evoiy iidi;-

And dosed where he sailed beforei

Ho f see ye not, my merry men,

The broad and open sea ?
Bethink ye what the whaler said.
Bethink ye of the little Indian's ded t

The crew laughed out in glee.

6ir John, Sir John, 'tis bitter cold, \

The scud drives on the breese, >^

fhe ice comes looming from the north,
The very sunbeams freeze.

tright summer goes, dark winter comet—

We cannot rule the year ;
.uit long ere summer's sun goes down.

On yonder sea we '11 steen

A nAIJ.AP OF SIU JOIIN FRANKT.TN.

270

The dripping icebergs dipped and roae.

And floundered d«>iirn the gale ;
The shipfl were Htaid, the yaras were manned.

And rurled the useless sail

The Bumnior 's gone, the winter 's come,

We sail not on yonder sea ;
Why sail we not, Sir John Franklin ?

— A silent man was he.

The winter goes, the summer comes, '

We cannot rule the year ;
I ween, we cannot rule the ways,

Sir John, wherein we 'd steer.

The cruel ice came floating on,

And closed benoath the lee.
Till the thickening waters (lashed no more,
'T was ice around, behind, before —

My God I thcra is no sea I

Wliat think you of the whaler now !

What of the Esquimaux V
A sled were better than a ship.

To cruise through ico and snow.

Down sank the baleful crimson sun ;

The northern -light came out,
And glared u{X)n the ice-bound ships,

And shook its spears about

The snow came down, storm breeding storm,

And on the decks was laid ;
Till the weary sailor, sick at heart.

Sank down beside his spade.

Sir John, the night is black and long.

The hissing wind is bleak ;
The hard, green ice is strong as death : —

I prithee, captain, speak.

The night is neither bright nor short;

The singing breeze is cold,
The ice is not so strong as hope,

The heart of man is bold I

What hope can scale this icy wall,

High o'er the main flag-staff?
Above the ridges the wolf and bear
Look down with a patient, settled stare —

Look down on us and laugh.

The summer went, the winter came—

We could not rule the year ;
But summer will melt the ice again,
And open a path to the sunny main,

Whereon our ships shall steer.

280

TROOKESS OF AUCTIC DISCOVERY.

The winter went, the summer went.

The winter caino around ;
But the hard, green ice was strong as death,
And the voice of hope sank to a breath,

Yet caught at every sound.

Hark I heard you not the sound of guns t

And there, and tlicre again ?
*T is some uneasy iceberg's roar.

As he turns in the frozen main.

Hurra t hurra ! the Esquimaux

Across the ice-fields steal :
God give them grace for their chariiy I

Ye pray for the silly seaL

Sir John, where are the English fields^

And where tlie English trees.
And where are the little English flowers,

That open in the breeze ?

Be still, be still, my brave sailors I

You shall see the fields again.
And smell the scent of the opening flowery

The gi'ass, and the waving grain.

Oh I when shall I see my orphan child t

My Maiy waits for me ;
Oh ! when sliall I see my old mother.

And pray at her trembling knee ?

Be still, be still, my brave sailors 1
Think not such thoughts again I

But a tear froze slowly on his cheek —
He thought of Lady Jane.

Ah ! bitter, bitter grows the cold.
The ice grows more and more ;

More settl^ stare the wolf and bear, •
More patient than before.

Oh ! think you, good Sir John Franklin,
We '11 ever see the land ? ,

'T was cruel to send us here to stiure.
Without a kelping hand.

'T was cruel, Sir John, to send us here,

So far from help or home ;
To starve and freeze on this lonely sea ;
I ween, the Lords of the Admiralty

Had rather send than come. N

Oh I whether we starve to death alone.

Or sail to our own country.
We have done what man has never done -
The open ocean danced in the sun —

We passed the Northern Sea I •

THE SEARCniNO EXPEDITIONS. 281

The Government and Private Searciiino Expeditions
AFTER Sir John Franklin.

The following is a complete list of the several relief
and exploring vessels which have been sent out during
the last two years by the British government, by private
individuals, and by the American nation : —

Ships. Men. Commandors.

1. II. M. S. Enterprise - - 68 Capt. Collinsou.

2. H. M. S. Investigator - - 65 Com. M'Clure.

3. H. M. S. Plover - - - 52 Com. Moore.

4. H. M. S. Kesolutc - - - 68 Capt. li. Austin.

5. II. M. S. Assistance - - 60 Capt. E..Ommaney.
C. II. M. S. Intrepid, (screw

steamer,) 30 Lieut. S. Osbom.

7. II. M. S. Intrepid, (screw

steamer,) 38 Lieut. Cator.

8. The Lady Franklin - - 25 Mr. Penny.

9. Tlie Sophia, (a tender to

the above,) 22 Mr. Stewart.

10. United States brig Ad-
vance 20 Lieut. Do Haven.

11. United States vessel Res-

cue 18 Mr. S. P. Griffin.

12. Felix yacht Capt. Sir John Koss.

13. Mary, (tender to tbe Felix.)

M. Tlie Korth Star, Master and Commander Saunders.
15. The Prince Albert - - 18 Com. Forsyth.

Of these vessels the Enterprise, Investigator, and
Plover, are at present cngagccl on the western l)ran('h
ctf pcarch through Behring's Straits. The rest have all
j»iocecdcd throu<^h Baffin's Bay to Lancaster Sound, and
tlic channels branching out from thence, except the last
two, which have returned home.

Voyage of the "Enterprise" and "Investigator"
UNDER Captain Sir James C. Ross, 1848-49.

In the spring of 1848, Captain Sir James C. Ross
^.iR placed in command of a well found and fitted ex-
pedition, with moans and advantages of unusual extent,

282

I'ltOGUESS OF ARCTIC D18C0VKKV.

and with an object that could not fail to Btimulate in
the highest degree the energies and perseverance of all
embarked in it. With the ever present feeling, too, that
the lives of their countrymen and brother sailors de-
pended, (under God's good providence,) upon their
unflinching exertions, Captain Ross and his followers
went forth in the confident hope that their efforts might
be crowned with success.

The season was considerably advanced before tLo
whole of the arrangements were completed, for it was
not until the 12th of Juno, 1848, that Captain Ross left
England, having under his charge the Enterprise and
Investigator, with the following oflScers and crews :— -

JEnterpriae, 540 tons.

Captain — Sir James C. Ross.

Lieutenants — R. J. L. M'Cluro, F. L. McClintock,

and W. II. J. Browne.
Master — W. S. Couldery, (actingj
Surgeon — "W. Robertson, (/>) M. u,
Assistant-Surgeon — H. Matthias.
Clerk — Edward Whitehead.

Total complement, 68.

Investigator^ 480 tons.
Captain — E. J. Bird.
Lieutenants — M. G. H. W. Ross, Frederick Robinson

and J. J. Barnard.
Master — W. Tatham.
Surgeon — Robert Anderson.
Mates — L. J. Moore and S. G. Creeswell.
Second Master — John H. Allard.
Assistant-Surgeon — E. Adams.
Clerk in Charge — James D. Gilpin.
Total complement, 67.

The ships reached the Danish settlement of Upper-
navick, situated on one of the group of Woman's Islands
on the western shore of Baffin's Bay, on the 6th of
July. Running through this intricate archipelago, they

ate in
of all
o, that
►re de-
their
lowers
might

)re tl.0
it was
loss left
so and
cwB :—

Jlintock,

)bin8on

Upper-
Islands
6th of

Lgo, they

VOYAGE OF ENTEKI'ltlSli AND INVESTIGATOR. 283

were made fast, on the 20tli, to an iceberg agi-ound off
Cape Shackleton. The nhips were towed, during the
next few days, through loose streams of ice, and on tho
iiioming of tho 26th were off the three islands of Baffin
in latitude 74° N. Calms and light winds so greatly
impeded any movement in tho pack, that day aftei
day passed away until the season had so far advanced
as to preclude every hope of accomplishing much, if
any thing, before the setting in of winter.

No exertions, however, were spared to take advantago
of every opportunity of pushing forward, until, on the
20th of August, during a heavy breeze from the north-
cast, the ships under all sail bored through a pack of ice
of but moderate thickness, but having among it heavy
masses, througli which it was necessary to drive them at
all hazards. The shocks the ships sustained during this
povere trial were great, but fortunately without serious
damage to them. Getting into clear water in lat. 75 i N.,
.111(1 long. 68° W., on the 23d the ships stood in to
Pond's fiay, but no traces of Esquimaux or other human
hi'ings were discovered^ although signals were made and
guns fired at i*epeated intervfis. The ships were kept
dose to the land, and a rigid examination made of tho
coast to the northward, so that neither people nor boats
could have passed without being i,ecn. On the 2Gth
the ships arrived off Possession J:= m % and a party was
sent on shore to search for any tracea of the expedition
liaviug touched at this general point of rendezvous.
Nothing was found but trie paper left there recording
the visit of Sir Edward Parry, on tho very day (August
oOtli) in 1819. From this point the examination of the
f'oast was continued with equal care. On the 1st of
September they arrived off Cape York, and a boat's
crew was sent on shore, to fix a conspicuous mark, and
leave information for the guidance of any future party
that might touch here.

I shall now take up the narrative in Sir James Ross's
own words — " We stood over toward northeast capo
until we came in with the edge of a pack, too dense for
us to penetrate, lying between us and Leopold Island,

5iS4

I'lKXiKKHS OF AUCTIC DISCOVERY.

about fourteen miles broad ; wo therefore coa8te<l tiio
north Hhorc of Barrow's Strait, to seek a harbor furtlior
to the westward, and to examine the numerous inlets of
that shore. Maxwell Bay, and several smaller indcntii-
tions, were thoroughly explored, and, although wo got
near tho entrance of Wclhngton Channel, the firm bar-
rier of ice which stretched across it, and which had not
broken away this season, convinced us all was imprac-
ticable in that direction. Wo now stood to tho south-
west to seek for a harbor near Capo Rennell, but found
a heavy body of ice extending from tho west of Corn-
wallis Island in a compact mass to Leopold Island.
Coasting along tho pack during stormv and foggy
weather, wo had difhculty in keeping the ships fi'co
during the nights, for I believe so great a quantity of ico
was never before seen in Barrow's Strait at this period
of the season."

Fortunately, after some days of anxious and arduous
work, tho ships were got through tho pack, and secured
in tho harbor of Port Leopold on tho 11th of September.
No situation could bo better adaj^ted for the purposo
than this locality ; being at tho junction of tne four
great channels of Barrow's Strait, Lancaster Sound,
Brinco Regent Inlet, and "Wellington Channel, it was
hardly possible for any party, after abandoning their
bhips, to pass along tho shores of any of those illk't^^,
without finding indications of the proximity of thoso
6hii)S.

The night following tho very day of tho ships' gettini,'
in, the main pack closed with the land, and completely
sealed the month of the harbor. The long winter wa>
passed in exploring and surveying journeys along tho
coasts in all directions. During the winter as jnany a^
fifty white foxes wore taken alive, in traps made of
empty casks set for tho pui'pose. As it was well known
how large a tract of country these animals traverse in
search of food, copper collars, (upon which a notice of
the position of the ships and depots of provisions was
engraved,) were clinched round their necks,, and they
were then set free, in the hope that some of these four-

VOYAGE OF ENTEUPRISE AND INVESTIQATOR.

285

looied messengers might be the means of conveying the
intelligence to the Erebus and Terror, as tlie crews of

examining and thoroughly exploring all the inlets and
smaller indentations ot the northern and western coasts
of Boothia peninsula, in which any ships might havo
found shelter.

From the high land in the neighborhood of Cape
Bunny, Capt. Ross obtained a verv extensive v'ew, and
observed that the whole space between it and Cape
Walker to the west, and Wellington Strait to the north,
was occupied by very heavy hummocky ice.

" The examination of the coast," Sir James Ross tells
us, " was pursued until the 5th of June, when, having
consumed more than half our provisions, and the strength
of the party being much reduced, I was reluctantly
compelled to abandon further operations, as it was,
moreover, necessary to give the men a day of rest.
But that the time might not wholly bo lost, I proceeded
with two hands to the extreme south point in sight from
our encampment, distant about eight or nine miles."

This extreme point is situate in lat. 72"^ 38' N., and
lung. 95° 40' W., and is the west face of a small high
peninsula. The state of the atmosphere bein^ at the
time peculiarly favorable for distinctness of vision, land
of any great elevation might have been seen at the dis-
tance ot 100 miles. The nighest cape of the coast was
not more than fifty miles distant, bearing nearly duo
South. A very narrow isthmus was found to separate
Prince Regent Inlet from the western sea at Crcsswell
and Brentford Bays. The ice in this quarter proved to
be eight feet thick. A large cairn of stones was erected,
and on the 6th of June, the return journey was com-
menced. After encountering a variety of difficulties
they reached the ships on the 23d, so completely worn
out by fatigue, that every man was, from some cause or
other, in the doctor's hands for two or three weeks.
During their absence, Mr. Matthias, the assistant-surgeon

as6

rU<JUU]£&B OV AKCriC DI6CUVKKY.

of the Enton^riflo, had died of consnmption. Several of
the crews ot botli shins were in ii declining state, and
the jgeneral report of nealth was hy no means cheering.
While Captain Iloss was away, Commander Bird
had dispatched other surveying parties in different di-
rections. One, under the command of Lieutenant Har-
nard, to the northern shore of Barrow^s Strait, crossing
the ice to Cape Hind ; a second, commanded by Lieu-
tenant Browne, to the eastern shore of liegent Lilet ;
and a third party of six men, conducted by Lieutenant
Robinson, along the western shore of the Inlet. The
latter officer extended his examination of the coast uh
far as Cresswell Bay, several miles to the southward
of Fury Beach. He found the house still standing in
whick Sir John Ross passed the winters vf 1 832-313,
together with a quantitv of the stores and provisions
of the Fury, lost there m 1827. On opening some of
the packages containing flour, sugar and peas, they
were all found to be in excellent preservation, and the

{>re8erved soup as good as when manufactnrod. The
abors of these searching parties were, however, of
comparatively short duration, as they all suffered from
snow-blindness, sprained ankles, and debility.

As it was now out too evident, from no traces of tlio
absent expedition having been met with by any of
these parties, that the ships could not have been de-
tained anywhere in this part of the arctic regions,
Captain Ross considered it most desirable to pusn for-
ward to the westward as soon as his ships should be lib-
erated. His chief hopes now centered in the efforts of
Sir John Richardson^s party; but he felt persuaded
that Sir John Franklin ^s ships must have penetrated
so far beyond Melville Island as to induce him to prefer
making for the continent of America rather than seek-
ing assistance from the whale ships in Bailings Bay.
The crews, weakened by incessant exertion, were now
in a very unfit state to undertake the heavy labor
which they had yet to accomplish, but all hands that
were able were set to work with saws to cut a channel
toward the point of the harbor, a distance of vather

VOYAGE OF ENTERrRISE AUD INVICSTIOATOR. 287

more than two miles, and on the 28th of Au^iiut tlio
shins got clear, l^et'oro quitting tlto port, a house wua
built of the spare B|>ar8 ot both stiips, and covered with
such of the housing cloths ofi couhl bo disi)ensed with.
Twelve months^ provisions, fuel, and other : ecesHaries
were also left behind, together with the steam launch
belonging to the Investigator, whicli, having been pur-
posely lengthened seven feet, now formed a fine vtssel,
capable oi conveving the whole of Sir John Franklin'd
party to the whale ships, if necessary.

The Investigator and Enterprise now ])roceeded
toward the northern shore of Barrow's Strait, for the
purpose of examining Wellington Channel; and, if nos-
sible, penetrating as far as Melville Island, but wnen
about twelve mues from the shore, the ships came to
the fixed land-ice, and found it impossible to proceed.

On the 1st of September a strong wind suddenly
irising, brought the loose pack, through which they
had been struggling, do^vn upon the ships, which were
closely beset. At times, during two or three days,
they sustained severe pressure, and ridges of hum-
mocks were thrown up all around ; but after that time
the temperature falling to near zero, it formed the
whole body of ice into one solid mass.

The remainder of the narrative, as related by the
Commander of the expedition in his official dispatch,
will not bear abridgment.

" We were so circumstanced that for some days w^e
could not unship the rudder, and when, by the labori-
ous operation oi sawing and removing the hummocks
from under the stem, we were able to do so, we found
it twisted and damaged ; and the ship was so much
strained, as to increase the leakage from three inchea
in a fortnight to fourteen inches daily. The ice was
stationary for a few days ; the pressure had so folded
the lighter pieces over each other and they were so
interlaced, as to form one entire sheet, extending from
shore to shore of Barrow's Strait, and as far to the east
and west as the eye could discern from the mast-head,
while the extreme severity of the temperature bad

■

288

PKOORESS OF ABCrriO DISCOVEltr.

cemented the whole so firmly together that it appeared
highly improbable that it could break up agam this
season. In the space which had been cleared away
for unshipping the rudder, the newly-formed ice was
fifteen inches thick, and in some places along the ship's
Bide the thirteen-feet screws were too short to work.
We had now fally made up our minds that the ships
were fixed for the winter, and dismal as the prospect
appeared, it was far preferable to being carried along
the west co.&st of Baffin's Bay, where the grounded
bergs are in such numbers upon the shallow banks off
that shore, as to render it next to impossible for phips
involved in a pack to escape destruction. It was,
therefore, with a mixture of hope and anxiety that, on
the wind shifting to the westward, we perceived the
whole body of ice begin to drive to the eastward, at the
rate of eight to ten miles daily. Every effort on our

Eart was totally unavailing, for no human power could
ave moved either of the ships a single inch ; they were
thus completely taken out of our own hands, and in the
center of a field of ice more than fifty miles in circum-
ference, were carried along the southern shore of
Lancaster Sound.

" After passing its entrance, the ice drifted in a more
southerly direction , along the western shore of Baffin's
Bay, until we were abreast of Pond's Bay, to the south-
, ward of which we observed a great number of icebergs
stretching across our path, and presenting the fearful
prospect of our worst anticipations. But when least
expected by us, our release was almost miraculously
brought about. The great field of ice was rent into
innumerable fragments, as if by some unseen power."
By energetic exertion, warping, and sailing, the ships
got clear of the pack, and reached an open space of
water on the 25th of September.

" It is impossible," says Captain Ross, in his con
eluding observations, " to convey any idea of the sen
sation we experienced whfen we found ourselves once
more at liberty, while many a grateful heart poured
forth its praises and thanksgivings to Almighty God
for this unlooked for deliverance.'*

VOYAGE OF ENTERPRISE AND INVESTIOATOR. 289

"The advance of winter had now closed all the har-
bors against us ; and as it was impossible to penetrate
to the westward through the pack from which we had
just been liberated, I made the signal to the Investi-
gator of my intention to return to England."

After a favorable passage, the ships arrived home
early in November, Captain Sir J. C. Ross reporting
himself at the Admiralty on the 6th of November.

As this is the last arctic voyage of Sir James C. Ross,
it is a fitting place for some record of- his arduous
services.

Captain Sir James Clarke Ross entered the navy in
1812, and sei-ved as volunteer of the first class, mid-
shipman and mate until 1817, with his uncle Com-
mander Ross. In 1818 he was appointed Admiralty
midshipman in the Isabella, on Commander Ross's first
voyage of discovery to the arctic seas. He was then
midshipman in the two following years with Captain
Parry, in the Hecla ; followed him again in the Furv
in his second voyage, and was promoted on the 26tn
of December, 1822. In 1824 and 1825, he was lieu-
tenant in the Fury, under Captain Hoppner, on Parry's
third voyage. In 1827, he was appointed first lieuten-
ant of the Hecla, under Parry, ana accompanied him
in comiiiand of the second boat in his attempt to reach
the North Pole. On his return he received nis promo-
tion to the rank of commander, the 8th of November,
1827. From 1829 to 1833, he was employed with his
uncle as second in command in the Victory on the pri-
vate expedition sent out by Mr. Felix Booth. Diunng
this period he planted, on the 1st of June, 1831, the
British flag on tne North Magnetic Pole. For this, on
his return, he was presented by the Herald's College
with an addition to nis family arms of an especial crest,
representing a flag-staff erect on a rock, with the union
jack hoisted thereon, inscribed with the date, " 1 June,
1831." On the 23d of October, 1834, he was promoted
to the rank of Captain, and in the following year em-
ployed in making magnetic observations, preparatory
to the general magnetic survey of England. In the

290

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

close of 1836, it having been represented to the Ad-
miralty, from Hull, that eleven wliale ships, having on
board 600 men, were left in the ice in bavis' Strait,
and in imminent danger of perishing, unless relief were
forwarded to them, the Lords Commissioners resolved
upon sending out a ship to search for them. Captain
Boss, with that promptitude and humanity which has
always characterized him, volunteered to go out in the
depth of winter, and the Lieutenants, F. K. M. Crozier,
Inman, and Ommaney, with the three mates, Jesse,
Buchan, and John Smith, and Mr. Hallett, clerk in
charge, joined him. They sailed from England on the
21st of December, and on arriving in Davis' Strait, after
a stormy passage, found that nine of the missing ships
were by that time in England, that the tenth was re-
leased on her passage, and that the other was in all
probability lost, as some of her water-casks had been
picked up at sea. From 1837 to 1838, Captain Boss
was employed in determining the variation of the com-
pass on all parts of the coast of Great Britain ; and
from 1839 to 1843, as Captain of the Erebus, in com-
mand of the antarctic expedition. In 1841, he was
presented with the founder's medal of the Koyal Geo-
graphical Society of London, for his discoveries toward
the South Pole ; and he has also received the gold
medal of the Geographical Society of Paris. On the
13th of March, 1844,ne received the honor of knight-
hood from the Queen, and in June of the same year
the University of Oxford bestowed on him their honor-
ary degree of D. C. L. In 1848, he went out, as we
have just seen, in the Enterprise, in Command of one
of the searching expeditions sent to seek for Franklin.

VoTAOB OP H. M. S. " North Stab."

The North Star, of 600 tons, was fitted out in the
spring of 1849, tmder the command of Mr. J. Saunders,
who had been acting master with Captain Back, in the
Terror, in her perilonB voyage to the Frozen Strait, in
1336.

VOYAGE OF THE NORTH STAB.

291

The following are the officers of the ships : —

Master Commanding — J. Saunders.

Second Masters — John Way, M. Korman, H. B.

Gawler.
Acting Ice-masters — J. Leach, and G. Sabestor.
Assistant Surgeon — James Rae, M. D.
Clerk in Charge — Jasper Butter.

The North Star sailed from the river Thames, on the
26th of May, 1849, freighted with provisions for the
missing expedition, and with orders and supplies for
the Enterprise and Investigator.

The following is one of the early dispatches from the
commander : —

" To the Secretary of the Admiralty.

" H. M. 8. North Star, July 19, 1849,
lat.WZ' N'.,long.b%'= iff TT.

"Sir, — I addressed a letter to their Lordships on the
18th ult., when in lat. 73° 30' N., and long. 56° 63' W.,
detailing the particulars of my proceedings up to that
date, which letter was sent by a boat from the Lady
Jane, whaler, which vessel was wrecked, and those boats
were proceeding to the Danish settlements. Since then,
t regret to state, our progress has been almost entirely
itopped, owing to the ice being so placed across Md-
ville Bay as to render it perfectly impassable.

" On the 6th inst., finding it impossible to make any
progress, I deemed it advisable to run as far S. as 72 ,
examining the pack as we went along. At 72° 22' the
pack appeared slacker, and we entered it, and, after
proceeding about twelve miles, found ourselves com-
pletely stopped by large floes of ice. We accordingly
put back, and steered again lor the northward.

" Having this day reached the latitude of 74° 3' N.,
and long. 59° 40' W., the ice appeared more open, and
we stood in toward the land, when we observed two
boats approaching, and which afterward, on coming
ilongside, were found to belong to the Prince of Wales,
A^haler, which vessel was nipped by the ice on the 12th
nst., in Melville Bay.

if f\

1 '.

292

rROGRESa OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

" By the captain of the Prince of Wales I forward
this letter to their Lordships, he intending to proceed
in his boats to the Danish settlements.
" 1 have the honor to be, &c.

" J. Saunders, Master and Commander.
" P. S. — Crew all well on board."

On the 29th of July, having reached the vicinity of
the Devil's Thumb and Melville Bay, in the northerly
part of Baffin's Bay, she was beset in an ice-field, with
which ' she drifted helplessly about as the tide or wind
impelled her, until the 16th of August, when, a slight
opening in the ice appearing, an effort was made to
heave tnrough into clear water. This proved labor in
vain, and no further move was made until the 21st of
September, except as she drifted in the ice floe in which
ehe was fixed. On the day last named she was driving
before a hard ^ale from the S. S. W., directly down upon
an enormous iceberg in Melville Sound, upon which if
she had struck in the then prevailing weather, her total
destruction would have been inevitable. Providen-
tially a comer of the ice-field in which she was being
carried furiously along came into violent collision with
the berg, a large section was carried away, and she
escaped. On the 29th of September, 1849, having been
sixty-two days in the ice, she took up her winter quar-
ters in North Star Bay, so called after herself, a small
bay in "Wolstenholme Sound, lying in 76° 33' north lat-
itude, and 68° 56' west longitude ; the farthest point to
the north at which a Britisn ship ever wintered. The
ship was fixed about half a mile fi*om the shore, and
made snug for the winter, sails were unbent, the masts
struck, and the ship housed over and made as warm
and comfortable as circumstances would permit. The
ice soon after took across the Sound, so that the crew
could have walked on shore. The cold was intense ;
but two or three stoves warmed the ship, and the crews
were cheered up and encouraged with all sorts of games
and amusements, occasionally visiting the shore for the

{mrpose of skylarking. There' was, unfortunately, Vmt
ittle game to shoot. Former accounts gave this pl> ^»

VOYAP^ OF TlIE NOUTII STAR.

893

a high character for deer and other animals ; but the
crew of the North Star never saw a single head of deer,
and other animals were scarce ; about fifty hares were
killed. Foxes were numerous, and a number shot, but
none taken alive. A few Esquimaux families occasion-
ally visited the ship, and one poor man was brought on
board with his feet so frozen that they dropped. He
was placed under the care of the assistant-surgeon, Dr.
Eae, who paid him much attention, and his legs were
nearlv cured ; but he died from a pulmonary disorder
after naving been on board some six weeks. The North
Star was not able to leave this retreat until the Ist of
August, 1850, and got into clear water oh the third of
that month. On tne 21st of August, she spoke the
Lady Franklin, Captain Penny, and her consort the
Sophia, and the following day the Felix, Sir John Koss,
in Lancaster Sound. Captain Peunv reported that he
had left Captain Austin all well on the 17th of August
On the 23d of August, the North Star began landing
the provisions she had carried out in Navy Board Li-
let ; 73° W N. latitude, 80° 56' W. longitude. She
remained five days there, and was occupied four and a
half in landing the stores, ".^'hich were deposited in a
ravine a short distance from the beach of Supply Bay,
the bight in Navy Board Lilet, which the commander
of the North Star so named. The position of the stores
was indicated by a flag-staff, with a black ball, and a
letter placed beneath a cairn of stones. They had pre-
viously tried to deposit the stores at Port Bowen, and
Port N eale, but were prevented approaching them by
the ice. On the 30th of August, the North Star saw
and spoke the schooner Prince Albert, Commander
Forsyth, in Possession Bay. On the 3l8t, a boat was
sent to the Prince Albert, when Commander Forsyth
came on board and reported that he had also been to
Port Neale, but had not been able to enter for the ice,
and had found one of the American ships sent out to
search for Sir John Franklin ashore in Barrow's Strait,
that he had tendered assistance, which had been de^
clined by the American commander, as, his ship being

13*

294

I'ROORESS OF ARCnC DISCOVERY.

iininjurecl, ho believed his own crew competent to get
her off. Commander Forsyth reported that Captain
Austin had proceeded to tond's JSay in the Intrepid,
tender to the Assistance, to land letters. The North
Star went on to Pond's Bay, but could not find any in-
dication of Captain Austin's having been there. It is
conjectured that he had passed the appointed spot in a
fog. The North Star's people suffered much from the
intense cold, but only lost five hands during her peril-
ous trip and arctic winter quarters. She left there on
September 9th, and reached Spithead on the 28th of
September, 1850. Since his return Mr. Saunders has
been appointed Master Attendant of the Dock-yard at
Malta. The Admiralty have received dispatches from
Captain Sir J. Boss, Captain Penny, and Captain Om-
maney. Captain Ommaney, in the Assistance, dating
from ofl;' Lancaster Sound, latitude 75° 46' N., longi-
tude 75° 49' "W., states that some Esquimaux had de-
scribed to him a ship being hauled in during the last
winter, and, on going to the spot, he found, from some
papers left, that it was the North Star. He was pro-
ceeding to search in Lancaster Sound. Captain Penny,
of the Lady Franklin, writing from Lancaster Sound,
August 21, states, that having heard on the 18th from
Captain Austin of a report from the Esquimaux, that
Sir John Franklin's ships had been lost forty miles
north, and the crews murdered, he went with an inter-
preter, but could find no evidence for the rumor, and
came to the conclusion that the whole story had been
founded on the North Star's wintering there. He con-
sidered that his interpreter, M. Petersen, had done much
food by exposing the fallacy of the story of Sir J
Ross's Esqmmaux.

Her Majesty's Smps "Enterprise" and "Investiga
tor" under Captain Collinson. n

The Enterprise and Investigator were fitted out agair
immediately on their return home, and placed undei
the charge of Captain B. Collinson, C. B., with the fol

SECOND TKir OF ENTERPRISE AND INVESTIGATOR.

pro-

enny,

ound,

from

that
miles
inter-

and
been

con-
mucb
>ir J

5TIGA

295

I wing officers attached, to proceed to Behring's Strait.
U) resume the search in that direction : —

Enterpris',^ 340 tons.

Captain — K. Collinson.

Lieutenants — G. A. Phayre,* J. J. Barnard,* and

C. T. Jago.
Master — K. T. G. Legg.
Second Master — Francis Skead.
Mate — M.T. Parks.
Surgeon — Kobert Anderson.*
Assistant-Surgeon — Edward Adams.* ■
Clerk in Charge — Edward Whitehead.*
Total complement, 66.

Investigator,

Commander — E. J. M'Clure.*
Lieutenants — "W". H. Haswell and S. G. Cresswell.*
Mates — H. H. Saintsburjr and R. J. Wyniatt.
Second Master — Stephen Court.*
Surgeon — Alexander Armstrong, M. D.
Assistant-Surgeon — Hy. Piers.
Ckrk in Charge — Joseph C. Paine.
Total complement, 66.

Those officers marked with a star had been with the
Bhips in their last voyage.

These vessels sailed from Plymouth on the 20th of
January, 1850. A Mr. Miortsching, a Moravian mis-
sionary, was appointed to the Enterprise, as interpreter.
Tliis gentleman is in the prime of life, of robust health,
inured, by a service of nve years in Labrador, to tho
hardships and privations of the arctic regions, and suffi-
cientihr acquainted with the language and manners of
the Esquimaux to be able to hold friendly and unre-
served intercourse with them.

The Investigator and the Enterprise were at the
Sandwich Islands on June 29th. Captain Collinson
purposed sailing in a few days, and expected to reach
the ice about t£e 8ti of July. Prior to his arrival,

296

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

numerous wlmlers had started for the Strait, one in par-
ticular, under the command of a Captain Roys, witli
the expressed intention of endeavoring to earn the
Frankhn reward.

These vessels are intended to penetrate, if possible, to
the western extremity of Melville Island, there to winter,
and make further search, in the spring of 1851, for tho
crews of the lost ships.

In a letter from Captain Collinson to Commander Mc
Clure, dated Oahu, June 29th, 1860, with a sight of
which I have been favored at the Admiralty, he thus
describes his intentions — "I intend making the pack
close to the American shore, and availing myself of the
first favorable openins west of the coast stream ; pressing
forward toward Melville Island. In the event of meet-
ing land, it is most probable that I would pursue the
southern shore."

The latest letter received from Commander McClure
IS dated Kotzebue Sound, July 27th, 1850, and the
following is an extract : —

" You will be glad to learn that to this we have been
highly favored, carrying a fair wind from Whoa, which
place we left on the 2th. We passed the Aleutian
Islands on the 20th, in 172° 30' W., and got fairly
through the Straits to-day, and we consider we are upon
our ground ; the only detriment has been very dense
fogs, which have rendered the navigation of the islands
exceedingly nervous work ; but as the object to be
achieved is of so important a nature, all hazards must
be run to carry out the intentions of those at home,
which have very fortunately terminated without acci-
dent. We are now making the most of our wind, and
we hope to meet an American whaler, of which I be-
lieve tnere are a great number fishing this season, and
to whom we must intrust our last dispatches. Sincerely
do I trust that, ere we return, some tidings of poor Sir
John and his noble companions may reward our search ;
which will render the long-sought for passage, should
it be our fortune to make it, one of the most memorable
in the annals of our times, and relieve many an anxious
breast "

SECOND TRIP OF ENTERPRISE AND INVESTIOATOIl. 297

Dispatches have been received at the Admiralty from
«>«ptain Kellet, C. B., of her Majesty's ship Herald,
dated at sea, the 14th of October, 1850, on his return
from Behrin^'s Strait. The Herald had communicated
with her Majesty's ship Plover, on the 10th of July, at
Chamisso Island, where the Plover had passed the pre-
ceding winter. The two ships proceeded to the north-
ward until they sighted the pack-ice, when the Herald
returned to Cape Lisburne, in quest of Captain CoUin-
Bon's expedition, and on the 31st fell in with her Maj-
esty's ship Investigator, which had made a surprisingly
short passage of twenty-six days from the Sandwich
Islands. The Herald remained cruising off Cape Lis-
burne, and again fell in with the Plover on the 13th of
August, on her return from Point Barrow, Commander
Moore having coasted in his boats, and minutely exam-
ined the several inlets as far as that point from Icy Cape
without gaining any intelligence or the missing expeai-
tion. Commander Moore and his boat's crew had suf-
fered severely from exposure to cold. Captain Kellet,
having fully victualed the Plover, ordered ner to winter
in Grantley Harbor (her former anchorage at Chamisso
Island not being considered safe,) and then returned to
the southward on his way to England

Dispatches have also been received from Captain Col-
linson, C. B., of her Majesty's ship Enterprise, and
Commander M'Clure, of her Majesty's ship Investigator
of which the following are copies : —

" Her Mamainfa Bhjm ^Enterpriser
^^Port Clarence^ Sept. 13, 1850.

"Sir, — I have the honor to transmit an account of
the proceedings of her Majesty's ship under my com
mand since leaving Oahn on the 30th of June.

"Being delayed by light winds, we only reached the
western end of the Aleutian Chain by the 29th of July,
and made the Island of St. Lawrence on the 11th of
August, from whence I shaped a course for Cape Lis-
burne, in anticipation of falling in with the Herald or

) «

j^-

298

PROGRESS OF ARCmC DISCJOVERT.

the Plover. Not, however, scoinff either of these ves-
sels, and finding nothing deposited on shore, I went on
to Wainwright Inlet, the last rendezvons appointed.
Here wo communicated on the 16th, and being alike
unsuccessful in obtaining any information, I stood to
the north, made the ice following morning, and reached
the latitude 72° 40' N. in the meridian of 159° 30' W.,
without serious obstruction. Here, however, the pacli
became so close that it was impossible to make way in
any direction except to the southward. Having extri*
cated ourselves by noon on the 19th, we continued to
coast along the edge of the main body, which took a
southeasterly trend, running through the loose streams,
so as not to lose sight of tight pack. At 4 a. m. on the
20th we were in the meridian of Point Barrow, and
twenty-eight miles to the north of it, when we found
open water to the N. E., in which we sailed, without
losing sight of the ice to the north until the morning
of the 21st, when we were obstructed by a heavy bar-
rier trending to the southwest. A thick fog coming on,
we made a board to the north, in order to leel the pack
edge in the upper part of the bight, and not to leave
any part unexplored. Having satisned myself that no
opening existed ^n this direction, we bore away to the
south, running through heavy floes closely packed, and
pushing to the eastward when an opportunity offered.
In this, however, we were unsuccessful, being com-

{)elled to pursue a westerly course, the floes being very
icavy and hummocky. !By 8 p. m. we were within
thirty miles of the land, and having clear weather,
could see the ice closely packed to the south that left
no doubt in my mind that a stop was put to our pro-
ceeding in this direction, by the ice butting so close on
the shoal coast as to leave no chance that our progress
along it would justify the attempt to reach Cape fiath-
urst, a distance of 670 miles, during the remaining
portion of this season; and finding this opinion was
coincided in by those oflScers on board qualified to
form an opinion on the subject, I determined to lose
no time in communicating with Point Barrow, but to

inmg
was
3d to
) lose
ut to

SECOND TRIP OF KNTERl'RISE AND INVESTIGATOR. 299

nttompt the passage further north, in hopes that the
lane of water seen last year by the Ilcrakt and Plover
would afford me an opening to the eastward. I there-
fore reluctantly proceeded again to the west, and turn-
ing the pack edge fifteen miles further to the south
than it was on the day after we left Wainwright lulet,
we followed the edge of a loose pack greatly broken
up, until we reached 163° W. long., when it took a
sudden turn to the north, in which direction we fol-
lowed it until the morning of the 27th, when we were
in latitude 73° 20', and found the pack to the westward
trending southerly. I therefore plied to the eastward,
endeavoring to make way, but such was its close con-
dition that we could not work, although we might have
warped through, had the condition of the ice in that
direction afforded us any hope ; but this, I am sorry to
say, was not the case, and, on the contrary, the further
we entered, the larger the floes became, leaving us, in
thick weather, often in great difficulty where to find a
lane. On the 29th the thermometer having fallen to
28°, and there being no prospect of our being able to
accomplish any thing toward the fulfillment of their
Lordships' instructions this season, I bore away for
Point Elope, where I arrived on the 31st, and found a
bottle deposited by the Herald, which informed me
that it was intended to place the Plover in Grantley
Harbor this season. I accordingly proceeded thither,
with the view of taking her place for the winter, and
enabling Commander Moore to recruit his ship's com-
pany by going to the southward. On my arrival I
found her inside, preparing her winter quarters, and
having examined and buoyed the bar, I attempted to
take this vessel inside, but failed in doing so, owing
to the change of wind from south to north having re-
duced the depth of water four feet, and had to relieve
the ship of 100 tons, which was quickly done by the
opportune arrival of the Herald, before she was re-
leased from a very critical position. The tides being
irregular, the rise and fall depending principally on
the wind, and that wind which occasions the highest

300

PROGRESS OF AKOTIO DISCOVERT.

water producing a swell on the bar, it became a ques-
tion wliether a considerable portion of the ensuing
season might not be lost in getting the ship out ot
Grantley Harbor ; and on consulting Captains Kellet
and Moore, finding it to be their opinion, founded on
the experience of two years, that tne whalers coining;
from tL south pass through the Strait oarly i„ June,
whereas the harbors are blocked until the middle of
July, I have come to the conclusion that I shall better
perform the important duty confided in me by return-
ing to the south, and replenishing my provisions, in-
stead of wintering on the Asiatic Shore, where there
is not a prospect of our being of the slightest use to
the missing expedition. It is therefore my intention
to proceed to Hong Kong, it being nearer than Valpa-
raiso, and the cold season having set in, my stores and
provisions will not be exposed to the heat of a double
passage through the tropics ; and as I shall not leave
until the 1st of April, I may receive any further in-
structions their Lordships may please to communicate.

"The Plover has been storea and provisioned, and
such of her crew as are not in a fit state to contend
with the rigor of a further stay in these latitudes have
been removed, and replaced by Captain Kellet, and the
paragraphs referring to her in my instructions fulfilled.

"1 have directed Commander Moore to communi*
cate annually with an Island in St. Lawrence Bay, in
latitude 66° 38' N., and longitude 170** 43' W., which
is much resorted to by the whalers, and where any
communication their Lordships may bo pleased to send
may be deposited by them, as they are not in the
habit of cruising on this side of the Strait ; and I have
requested Captain Kellet to forward to the Admiralty
all the information on this head he may obtain at the
Sandwich Islands.

" It is my intention to proceed again to the north,
and remain in the most eligible position for affording
assistance to the Investigator, which vessel, having
been favored with a surprising passage from the Sand-
wich Islands, was fallen in with by the Herald on the

RKt'ONI) mil' OF ENTKUI'RISK AND INVKSTUJATOK. .'{01

niflt of July, off Point Hope, and aj^ain on the Sth of
August by tlio 1 'lover, in hititudo 7U° 44' N., and lon-
gitude 151> ^ 52' W., when she was standing to the north
under a press of sail, and in all probability reached
the vicinity of Point Barrow, fitleen days previous to
tlio Enterprise, when Captain M'Clure, having the
whole season before him, and animated with the de-
termination so vividly expressed in his letter to Cap-
tain Kellctt, has most likely taken the inshore route,
and I hope before this period reached Cape Bathurst ;
l)ut as he will be exposed to the imminent risk of being
forced on a shoal snore and compelled to take to his
boats, I shall not forsake the coast to the northward
of Point Ilojpe until the season is so fUr advanced as
to insure their having taken up their winter quarters
for this season.

" I have received from my oflScers and ship's com-
pany that assistance and alacrity in the performance
of their duty, which the noble cause in which we are
engaged must excite, and I have the satisfaction to re-
port that (under the blessing of God) owing to the
means their Lordships have supplied in extra clothing
and provisions, we are at present without a man on
the sick list, notwithstanding the lengthened period of
our voyage.

"I have, &c.,

KioHABD CoLLiNBON, Captain.

"The Secretary of the Admiralty."

*^IIer Majeaty^s Discovery -ship ^Investigator^ at sea,
latitude 61° 26' iV^., longitude 172° 35' F., July 20.

Sir, — As I have received instructions from Captain
CoUinson, C. B., clear and unembarrassing, (a copy of
which I inclose,) to proceed to Cape Lisburne in the
hope of meeting him in that vicinity, as he anticipates
being detained a day or two by the Plover in Kotzebue
Sound, it is unnecessary to add that every exertion shall
be made to reach that rendezvous, but can scarce ven-
ture to hope that even under very favorable circum-

ll;t

li.

302

PROORKSS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

Btances I shall be so fortunate as to accomplish it ere
the Enterprise will have rounded that cape, from her
superior sail ins, she hitherto having beaten us by eight
days to Cape virgins, and from Magellan Strait to Oahu
six. It is, therefore, under the probable case that this
vessel may form a detached part of the expedition that
I feel it my duty to state, for the information of the
Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, the course
which, under such a contingency, I shall endeavor to

Eursue, and have to request that you will lay the same
efore their Lordships.

" 1. After passing Cape Lisburne, it is my intention
to keep in the open water, which, from the different
reports that I have read,- appears about this season of
the year to make between the American coast and the
main pack as far to the northward as the 130th meridian,
unless a favorable opening should earlier appear in the
ice, which would lead me to infer that I might push
more directly for Banks' Land, which I think is of the
utmost importance to thoroughly examine. In the event
of thus far succeeding, and the season continuing favor-
able for further operations, it would be my anxious
desire to get to the northward of Melville Island, and
resume our search along its shores and the islands adja-
cent as long as the navigation can be carried on, and
then secure for the winter in the most eligible position
which offers.

^' 2. In the ensuing spring, as soon as it is practicable
for traveling parties to start, I should dispatch as many
as the state of the crew will admit of in different direc-
tions, each being provided with forty days' provisions,
with directions to examine minutely all bays, inlets and
islands toward the northeast, ascending occasionally
some of the highest points of land, so as to be enabled
to obtain extended views, being particularly cautious in
their advance to observe any indication of a break up in
the ice, so that their return to the ship may be effected
without hazard, even before the expenditure of theii
provisions would otherwise render it necessary.

" 3. Supposing the parties to have returne<i w^'•^»^f^

SECOND TRIP OF ENTERrEISE AND INVESTIGATOR. 303

t)'i/««&a)ing any cine of the absent ships, and the vessel
liberated about the 1st of August, ray object would then
be to push on toward Wellington Inlet, assuming that
that channel communicates with the Polar Sea, and
search both its shores, unless in doing so some indication
should be met with to show that parties from any of
Captain Austin's vessels had previously done so, when
I should return, and endeavor to penetrate in the direc-
tion of Jones' Sound, carefully examining every place
that was practicable. Should our efforts to reach this
point be successful, and in the route no traces are dis-
cernible of the long missing expedition, I should not
then be snabled longer to divest myself of the feelings,
painful as it must be to arrive at such a conclusion, that
all human aid would then be perfectly unavailing ; and
therefore, under such a conviction, I would think it my
duty, if possible, to return to England, or at all events
endeavor to reach some port that would insure that ob-
ject upon the following year.

"4. In the event or this being our last communica-
tion, I would request you to assure their lordships that
no apprehensions whatever need be entertained of our
safety until the autumn of 1854, as we have on board
three years of all species of provisions, commencing
from the 1st of September proximo, which, without
much deprivation, may be made to extend over a period
of four years ; moreover, whatever is killed by the hunt-
ing parties, I intend to issue in lieu of the usual rations,
which will still further protract our resources.

" It gives me great pleasure to say that the good
effects of the fruit and vegetables, (a large quantity of
which we took on board at Oahu,) are very i)erceptible
in the increased vigor of the men, who at this moment
are in as excellent condition as it is possible to desire,
and evince a spirit of confidence and a cheerfulness of
disposition which are beyond all appreciation.

" 6. Should difficulties apparently insurmountable en-
compass our progress, so as to render it a matter of
doubt whether the vessel could be extricated, I should
deem it expedient in that case not to hazard the lives

•T'

304

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

of those intrusted to my charge after the winter of 1852,
but in the ensuing spring quit the vessel with sledgea
and boats, and make the best of our way either to
Pond's Bay, Leopold Harbor, the Mackenzie, or for
whalers, according to circumstances.

"Finally. In this letter I have endeavored to give an
outline of what I wish to accomplish, (and what, under
moderately favorable seasons, appears to me attainable,)
the carrying out of which, however, not resting upon
human exertions, it is impossible even to surmise if any,
or what, portion may be successful. But my object in
addressing you is to place their Lordships in possession
of my intentions up to the latest period, so far as possi-
ble, to relieve their minds from any unnecessary anxiety
as to our fate ; and having done this, a duty which is
incumbent from the deep sympathy expressed by their
Lordships, and participated in by all classes of our
countrymen, in the interesting object of this expedition,
I have only to add, that with the ample resources which
a beneficent government and a generous country have
placed at our disposal, (not any thing that can add to
our comfort being wantir.g,) we enter upon this distin-
guished service with a firm determination to carry out,
as far as in our feeble strength we are permitted, their
benevolent intentions.

" I have, &c.,
"Egbert M'Clttee, Conmiander."

"JTJ?/* Majesty's shvp ''Enterprise^
'^6ahu^ Jtme 29, 1850.

"Memorandum. — As soon as Her Majesty's ship under
your command is ftdly complete with provisions, fuel,
and water, you will make the best of your way to Cape
Lisburne, keeping a good look-out for the Herald, or
casks, and firing guns in foggy weather, after passing
Lawrence Bay. The whalers also may afford you infor-
mation of our progress.

" Should you obtain no intelligence, you will under-
Btand that I intend to make the pack close to the Araeri-

DISPATCHES FKOM ENTEBPBISE AND Df \ IsaTlGATOE. 305

f 1852,

iledgea

;her to

or for

Drive an
;, under
inable,)
g upon
3 if any,
bjectin
ssession
IS possi-
anxiety
irhich is
by their
i of our
iedition,
38 which
try have
n add to
distin-
irry out,
ed, their

nder."

150.

ip under
ms, fuel,

to Cape
erald, or

passing
ou infor-

1 under-
Ameri-

can shore, and pursue the first favorable opening west
of the Coast stream, pressing forward toward Melville
Island. In the event of meeting land, it is most probr •
ble that I would pursue the soutnern shore, but conspic
uous marks will be erected, if practicable, and informs
tion buried at a ten-foot radius.

" As it is necessary to be prepared for the contin
genc^ of your not being able to follow by the ice clos
mg in, or the severity of the weather, you will in that
case keep the Investigator as close to the edge of the
pack as is consistent with her safety, and remain there
until the season compels you to depart, when you will
look into Kotzebue Sound for the Plover,- or informa-
tion regarding her position ; and having deposited un-
der her charge a twelve month's provisions, you will
proceed to Valparaiso, replenish, and return to the
Strait, bearing in mind that the months of June and
July are the most favorable.

" A letter from the hydrographer relative to the vari-
ation of the compass is annexed ; and you will bear in
mind that the value of these observations will he greatly
enhanced by obtaining the variation with the ship's
head at every second or fourth point round the com-
pass occasionally, and she should be swung for devia-
tion in harbor as often as opportunity may offer.

" Should you not find the Plover, or that any casualty
has happened to render her inefficient as a depot, you
will take her place ; and if, (as Captain Kellett sup-
l)oses,) Kotzebue Sound has proved too exposed for a
winter harbor, you will proceed to Grantley Ilarboi*,
leaving a notice to that effect on Chamisso Island.
The attention of your officers is to be called, and you
will read to your ship's company, the remarks of Sir
J. Richardson concerning the communication with the
Esquimaux, contained in the arctic report received at
Plymouth.

" Your operations in the season 1851, cannot bo
guided by me, nor is there any occasion to urge you to
proceed to the northeast ; yet it will be highly desir-
able, previous to entering the pack, that yon completed

f !

•^

■I

'I'

,v<i

rROGKESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

provisions from whalorB, and obtained as much reindeer
meat as possible. Captain Kellett's narrative will point
out where the latter is to be had in most abundance,
and where coal can bo picked up on the beach ; but
husband the latter article during the winter, by using
all the drift-wood in your power.

" In the event of leaving the Strait this season, you
will take any weak or sickly men out of the Plover,
and replace them from your crews, affording Com-
mander Moore all the assistance in your power, and
* leaving with him Mr. Miertsching, the interpreter ; in-
structions with regard to whose accommodations you
have received, and will convey to the captain of the
Plover. "Richard Collinson.

" To Commander WGlure^ of her
Majesty* 8 shijp * Investigator?

" Should it be the opinion of Commander Moore that
the services of the Investigator's ship's company in ex-
ploring parties during the spring would be attended
with material benefit to the object of the expedition,
he will, notwithstanding these orders, detain you for
that purpose ; but care must be taken that your effi-
ciency as a sailing vessel is not crippled by the parties
not returning in time for the opening of the sea.

« R. C."

" Her Majesty's discovery shvp ' Investigator^ July
28, 1850. Kotzelue Sound, latitude 66° 54' JV.,
longitude 16%'' W.

" Sir, — I have the honor to acquaint you, for the in-
formation of the Lords Commissioners of the Admi-
ralty, that to this date we have had a most excellent
run. Upon getting clear of Oahu, on the morning of
the 5th, we shaped a course direct for the. Aleutian
group, passing them in 172° 40' W., upon the eveninp;
of the 20th ; continued our course with a fine south-
easterly breeze, but extremely thick and foggy weather,
(which retarded the best of our way being made.) Got
fairly out of Behring's Strait upon the evening of the

VOYAGE OF TIIE PLOVEK, ETC.

307

indeer
I point
dance,
1 ; but
r using

>n, you
Plover,
r Com-
ber, and
ber ; in-
ms you
a of the

[NSON.

3ore that
ay in ex-
attended
edition,
you tor
jrour effi-
parties

ia.

R. C."

, July
54' X

Dr the in-
Adnii-
excellent
rning of
Aleutian
! evening;
ne south-
weather,
e.) Got
g of the

27th, and are now in a fair way of realizing tlieir Lord-
ships' expectations of reaching the ice by the begin-
ning of August, our progress oeing advanced by the
favorable circumstances of a fine southerly wind and
tolerably clear weather. The latter we have known
nothing of since the 19th, which, I can assure you, ren-
dered the navigation among the islands a subject of
much and deep anxiety, seloom having a horizon above
480 yards, that just enabled the dark outline of the land
to be observed and avoided.

" It is with much satisfaction that I report the good
qualities of this vessel, having well tried her in the
heavy gales experienced during five weeks oft' Capo
Horn, and in moderate weather among the intricate
navigation of these islands, where so much depended
upon her quick obedience to the helm, although laden
with every species of stores and provisions for upward
of three years. From these circumstances I am, there-
fore, fully satisfied she is as thoroughly adapted for this
service as could be reasonably wished.

" I have not seen any thing of the Enterprise, nor is
it my intention to lose a moment by waiting off Cape
Lisbume, but shall use my best endeavors to carry out
the intentions contained in my letter of the 20th, of
which I earnestly trust their Lordships will approve.

" I am happy to be able to state that the wliole crew
are in excellent health and spirits, and every thing as
eatisfactory as it is possible to desire.

" I have, &c.,
" EoBERT M'Cluke, Commander.

" The Secretary of the Admiralty.''*

Voyage of H. M. S. " Plover," and Boat Expeditions
UNDER Commander Pullen, 1848-61.

In the copy of the. instructions issued from the Ad-
miralty to Lieutenant, (now Commander,) Moore, of
the Plover, dated 3d of January, 1848, he was directed
to make the best of his way to Petropaulowski, touch-
ing at Panama, where she was to be joined by H. M.

308

rROGRESS OP AEOTIO DISCOVERT.

S. Herald, and afterward both vessels were to proceed
to Behring's Strait, where they were expected to arrive
about the Ist of July, and then push along the Ameri-
can coast, as far as possible, consistent with the cer-
tainty of preventing the ships being beset by the ice.
The I*lover was then to be secured for the winter in
some safe and convenient port from whence boat par-
ties might be dispatched, and the Herald was to return
and transmit, via Panama, any intelligence necessary;
to England. Great caution was ordered to be observed
in communicating with the natives in the neighborhood
of Kotzebue Sound, should that quarter be visited, as
the people in that part of the country differ in charac-
ter from the ordinary Esquimaux, in being compara-
tively a fierce, agile, and suspicious race, well armed
with knives, &c., for offense, and prone to attack.
They were also ordered to take interpreters or guides
from a small factory of the Russian- American Company
in Norton Sound.

The Plover was safely ensconced for the winter of
1849-50 in Kotzebue Sound, after the termination of a
hard season's work. She had, conjointly with the Her-
ald, discovered to the north of Eehring's Strait, two
islands, and several apparently disconnected patches
of very elevated ground. Lieut. Pullon had previously
quitted her off Wainwright Inlet, with four boats, for
tne purpose of prosecuting his adventurous voyage
along the coast to the mouth of the Mackenzie River,
where he arrived safely on the 26th of August, after Ji
perilous navigation of thirty-two days, but had obtained
no clue or intelligence regarding the prime object of his
expedition. At a later date he encountered at Fort
Simpson, higher up the river. Dr. Rae, and gathered
"from tha*: gentleman that the party led by him down
the Coppermine, with the vie^. ca crossing over to Vic
toria or Wollaston Land, had, owing to the unusual
difficulties created by the more thdn customary rigor of
the season, met with entire failure ; the farthest point
attair ad being Cape Erusenstem.

Lieut. Pullen is occupied during the present year in

VOYAGE OF THE I'LOVEK, ETC.

300

proceed
) arrive
Ameri-
the cer-
the ice.
inter in
oat par-

return
ecessary
observed
iborbood
isited, as

1 charac-
compara-
11 armed
attack.
3r guides
Company

ivinter of
Eition of a
tbe Her-
trait, two
patcbcs
)reviously
boats, for
8 voyage
ie Biver,
Lst, after ii
obtained
iect of his
at Fort
gathered
iim down
er toYic
Ie unusual
•y rigor ot
Lest point

[nt year in

a journey from the mouth of the Mackenzie eastward,
along the arctic coast, as far as Cape Bathurst, and this
being successfully accomplished, he purposes attempt-
ing to cross the intervening space to feanxs' Land. He
is turnished with two boats, both open.

Lieut. W. H. Hooper, one of the party, in a recent
letter to his father in London, writing from Great Slave
Lake, under date June 27, 1850, gives some further de-
tails of their proceedings. Having had considerable
trouble and a slight skirmish with some parties of Es-
quimaux, thev were obliged to be continually on the
watch. At the end of August, the party entered the
Mackenzie River, and in a lew days reached one of the
Hudson's Bay Company's posts on the Peel River, a
branch of the MacKenzie, where Commander Pullen
left Lieut. Hooper and half the party to winter, while
he proceeded farther up the river to a more important
post at Fort Simpson. After remaining at Peel's River
station about a fortnight, Mr. Hooper found that his
party could not be maintained throughout the winter
tliere, and in consequence determined on following
Capt. Pullen, but was only able to reach Fort Norman,
one of his party being frost-bitten on the journey.
Tliey thence made their way across to Great Bear Lake,
where they passed the winter, subsisting on fish and
water. Dr. Rae arrived there as soon as the ice broke
up, and the party proceeded with him to Fort Simpson.

On the 20th of June, Commander Pullen and all his
party left with the company's servants, and the stock of
furs, on their way to the sea, to embark for England,
when they were met, on the 25th, by a canoe with Ad-
miralty dispatches, which caused them to retrace their
steps ; and they are now on their route by the Great
Slave Lake to Fort Simpson, and down the Mackenzie
once more, to the Polar Sea, in search of Sir John.
Franklin.

" However grieving," Lieut. Hooper adds, " it is to
be disappointed of returning home, yet I am neverthe-
less delighted to go again, and think that we do not
hopelessfy undertake another search, since our intended

*i.

310

I'ROGRESS OF AKCfIC DISCOVERY.

direction is considered the most probable channel for
finding the missing ships or crews. We ^o down the
Mackenzie, along flie coast eastward to Point Bathurst,
and thence strike across to Wollaston or Banks' Land.
The season will, of course, much influence our proceed-
ings ; but we shall probably return up the hitherto
unexplored river which runs into the Arctic Ocean
from Liverpool Baj, between the Coppeniiine and
Mackenzie."

The latest official dispatch from Commander Pullen
is dated Great Slave Lake, June 28th. He had been
stopped by the ice, and intended returning to Fort
Simpson on the 29th. One of his boats was so battered
about as to bo perfectly useless ; he intended patchiii;]j
up the other, and was also to recoive a new oout be-
longing to the IIikIsod's Bay Company, fi*om Fort
Simpson. He had dismissed two of his party, as they
were both suffering from bad health, but proposed en-
gaging, at Fort Good Hope, two Hare Indians as hunt-
ei'd and guides, one of whom had accompanied Messrs.
Dease and Simpson on their trips of discovery in 1838
and 1839. This would augment the party to seventeen
persons in all.

" My present intentions," he says, " are to proceed
down the Mackenzie, along the coast, to Cape Bathurst,
and then strike across for Banks' Land ; my operations
must then, of course be guided by circumstances, but I
shall strenuously endeavor to search along all coasts in
that direction as far and as late as I can with safety
venture ; returning, if possible, by the Mackenzie, or
by the Beghoola, which the Indians speak of as being
navigable, as its head waters are, (according to Sir John
Richardson,) only a nine-days' passage from Fort Good
Hope ; to meet wiiich, or a sinular contingency, I tako
snow shoes and sledges, &c.

" In conclusion, I beg to assure their Lordships of
my earnest determination to carry out their views to
the utmost of my ability, being confident, from the
eagerness of the party, that no pains will bo spared, no
necessary labor avoided, and, ny God's blessing, wo

"'T-'

VOYAGE OF THE rLOVt ETC.

3iX

hope to be successful in discovering some tidings of our
gallant countrymen, or even in restoring them to their
native land and anxious relatives."

Mr. Chief Factor Rae was about to follow Com-
mander PuUen and his party from Portage La Lociie.

Dr. Eichardson observes that " Commander Pnllen
will require to be fully victualed for at least 120 days
from the 20tb of July, when he may be expected to
commence his sea voyage ; which, for sixteen men, will
require forty-five bags of pemmican of 90 lbs. each.
This is exclusive of a further supply which he ought to
take for the relief of any of Franklin's people he may
have the good fortune to find. After he leaves the
main-land at Cape Bathui*st, he would have no chance
of killing deer till he makes Banks' Land, or some in-
tervening island ; and he must provide for the chance
of being caught on the floe ice, and having to make his
way across by the very tedious portages, as fully de-
scribed by Sir "W. E. Parry in the narative of his most
adventurous boat voyage north of Spitzbergen.

" Mr. Kae can give Commander PuUen the fullest
information respecting the depots of pemmican made
on the coast.

" With respect to Commander Pullen's return from
sea, his safest plan will be to make for the Mackenzie ;
but should circumstances place that out of his power,
the only other course that seems to me to be practicable
is for him to ascend a large river which falls into tiie
bottom of Liverpool Bay, to the westward of Cape Ba-
thurst. This river, which is named the Begloola Dessy
by the Indians, runs parallel to the Mackenzie, and in
the latitude of Fort Good Hope, {66° 30' N.,) is not
above five or six days' journey from that post. Hare
Indians, belonging to Fort Good Hope, might bo en
gaged to hunt on the banks of the river till the arrival
of the party. The navigation of the river is unknown ;
but even should Commander Pullen be compelled to
quit his boats, his Indian hunters, (of which he should
at least engage two for his sea voyage,) will support
and guide his party. Wood and animals are most cer-
tainly found on the banks of rivers.

812

PR00EES8 OF ARCriC DISCOVERY.

"It is not likely that under any circumstances Com-
mander Pullen should desire to reach the Mackenzie
by way of the Coppermine River, and this could be
enected only by a boat being placed at Dease River,
for the transport of the party over Great Bear Lake.
This would require to be arranged previously with
Mr. Rae ; and Commander Pullen should not be
later in arriving at Fort Confidence than the end of
September."

Voyage op the "Lady Franklin" and "Sopiha,"
Government Vessels, under the command of Mr.
Penny, 1850-61.

A vessel of 230 tons, named the Lady Franklin, fit-
ted out at Aberdeen, with a new brig as a tender, built
at Dundee, and named the Sophia, in honor of Miss
S. Cracroft, the beloved and attached niece of Lady
Franklin, and one of the most anxious watchers for
tidings of the long missing adventurers, were purchased
by the government Ian year.

The cnarge of this exj>edition was intrusted to Cap-
tain Penny, foi*merly commanding the Advice whaler,
and who has had much experience in the icy seas, hav-
ing been engaged twenty-eight years, since the age of
twelve, in the whaling trade, and in command of ves-
sels for fourteen vears ; Mr. Stewart was placed in
charge of the Sophia.

The crew of the Lady Franklin number twenty-five,
and that of the Sophia, twenty, all picked men.

These ships sailed on the 12th of April, 1850, pro-
visioned and stored for three years. They were pro-
vided with a printing press, and every appliance to
relieve the tedium of a long sojourn in the icy regions.

In the instructions issued by the Admiralty, it is
stated that in accepting Captain Parry's offer of service,
regard has been had to his long experience in arctic
navigation, and to the great attention he has paid to
the subject of the missing ships.

He "was left in a great measure to the exercise of his

VOYAGE OF TirE RESOLUTE AND ASSISTANCE, ETr 313

»wn judgment and discretion, in combining the most
Active and energetic searcli after the Erehus and Terror,
witli a strict and careful regard to tlie safety t)f tho
ships and their crews under his cliarge. He was di-
rected to examine Jones' Sound at the head of Ballin's
liay, and if possible, penetrate through to the Parry
Islands ; failing in this, he was to try Wellington Strait,
and endeavor to reach Melville Island, lie was to uso
his utmost endeavors, (consistent with the safety of tho
lives of those intrusted to his command,) to succor, in
tlie summer of 1850, the party under Sir John Frank-
lin, taking care to secure his winter-quarters in good
time ; and 2dly, the same active measures were to be
used in the summer of 1851, to secure tho return of the
ships under his charge to this country.

The Lady Franklm was oft' Cape York, in Bafiin's
Bay, on tho 13th of August. From thence she pro-
ceeded, in company with H. M. S. Assistance, to Wol-
stenholme Sound. She afterward, in accordance with
her instructions, crossed over to the west with the in-
tention of examining Jones' Sound, but owing to the
accumulation of ice, was unable to approach it within
twenty-five miles. This was at midnight on the 18th.
She, therefore, continued her voyage to Lancaster
Sound, and onward to Wellington Channel, where she
was seen by Commander Forsyth, of the Prince Albert,
)n the 25th of August, with her tender, and IT. M. S.
Assistance in company, standing toward Cape Ilotham.

Voyage of H. M. Ships " Resolute " and " Assistance,"
WITH the Steamers "Pioneer" and "iNTRErro"
as Tenders, under command of Captain Austin,
1850-51.

Two fine teak-built ships of about 500 tons each, the
Baboo and Ptarmigan, whose names were altered to
the Assistance and Resolute, were purchased by the
government in 1850, and sent to the naval yards to be
oroperly fitted for the voyage to the polar regions.

Two screw-propeller steamers, intended to accompany

iiJ

^pg'yj' ■■^^"■j-^

814

PnOORESS OF AUCTIO DISGOVEKT.

theno vessels ns steam tenders, were also purchasocl and
similarly fitted ; their names were changed from the
Eider and Free Trade to the Pioneer and Intrepid.

The command of this expedition was intrusted to
Captain Horatio T. Austin, C. B., who was first lien-
tenant of the Fury, under Commander Iloppner, in
Captain Sir E. Parry's third voyage, in 1824-25. Tlio
vessels were provisioned for three years, and their at-
tention was also directed to the depots of stores lodged
by Sir James Ross at Leopold Island, and at Navy
Board- Inlet bv the North Star. The ships sailed in
May, 1850. The officers employed in them were as
follows : —

Beaolute.

Captain — Horatio T. Austin, C. B.

Lieutenants — R. D. Aid rich, and W. H. J. Browne.

Mates — R. B. Pearse, and W. M. Hay.

Purser — J. E. Brooman.

Surgeon — A. R. Bradford.

Assistant, ditto — Richard King.

Midshipmen — C. Bullock, J. P. CheyiM.

Second Master — G. F. M'Denjeall.

Total complement, 60 men.

Pioneer^ screw steamer.

Lient.-Commandinff — Sherard Osbom.
Second Master — J. H. AUard.
Assistant-Surgeon — F. R. Picthom.

Assistance.
Captain — E. Ommaney.
Lieutenants — J. E. EUiot, F. L. M'Olintock, and

G. F. Mecham.
Surgeon — J. J. L. Donnett
Assistant, ditto — J. Ward, (a.)
Mates — R. Y. Hamilton, and J. R. Keane.
Clerk in Charge — E. N. Harrison.
Second Master — W. B. SheUabear.
Midshipman — C. R. Markham.

Total complement, 60 men.

VOYAGE OF THE RESOLUTE AND ASfllSTANCE, ETC. 315

Intrepidy screw stcamor.
Lieut.-Commander — B. Cator.
Eacli of the tenders had a crew of 30 men.

Two ol the officers amwintcd to this expedition, Lieu-
tenants lirowne and M Clintock, were in tlie Enterprise
under (Japtain Sir James 0. Iloss in 1848.

The Kmma Eugenia transport was dispatched in ad-
vance with provisions to tlie Whale-Fish Islands, to await
tlie arrival of the expedition.

It liaving been suggested by Bome parties that Sir
John Franklin might have effected his passage to Mel-
ville Island, and been detained there with nis ships,
or that tlie ships might have been damaged by the ice
in the neighboring sea, and tliat with his crews he had
abandoneu them and made his escape to that island,
(Japtain Austin was specially instructed to use every
exertion to reach this island, detaching a portion of his
fillips to search the shores of Wellington Channel and
tlie coast about Cape Walker, to which ix)int Sir John
Franklin was ordered to proceed.

Advices were first received from the Assistance, after
her departure, dated 5th of July ; she was then making
tier way to the northward. The season was less favor-
a])le for exploring operations than on many previous
years. But little ice had been met with in Davis'
Dtrait, where it is generally found in large quantities,
so that obstacles ot a serious nature may be expected
to the northward. Penny's shij)8 had been in company
with them.

Ice is an insunnountable barrier to rapid progress ;
fortifications may be breached, but huge masses of ice,
200 to 600 feet high, are not to be overcome.

On the 2d of July the Assistance was towed beneath
a perpendicular clifr to the northward of Cape Shackle-
ton, rising to the height of 1500 feet, which was ob-
served to oe crowded with the foolish guillemots, ( Uria
troile.) When the ship hooked on to an iceberg for the
night, a party sent on shore for the purpose brought off
260 birds and about twenty dozen of their eggs. These
birds only lay one egg each. ,^

')-

316

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

The following official dispatch has been since received
from Captain Oramaney : —

^''Her Majesty^ 8 ship ''Assistance^ off Lancaster Sounds
latitude 75° 46' iV^., longitude 75° 49' TF., August
17, 1850.

"Sir, — I have the honor to acquaint you, for the in-
formation of the Lords Commissioners of the Admi-
ralty, that her Majesty's ship Assistance, and her tender,
her Majesty's steam-vessel Intrepid, have this day suc-
ceeded in effecting a passage across to the west water,
and are now proceeding to Lancaster Sound. Officers
and crews all well, with fine clear weather, and open
water as far as can be seen.

" Agreeably with instructions received from Captain
H. Austin, we parted company on the 15th instant, at
one A. M., off Cape Dudley Biggs, as the ice was then
sufficiently open to anticipate no farther obstruction in
effecting the north passage. He was anxious to proceed
to Pond's Bay, and thence take up the examination along
the south shores of Lancaster Sound, leaving me to
ascertain the truth of a report obtained from the Esqui-
maux at Cape York respecting some ship or ships hav-
ing been seen near Wolstenholme Island, after which to
proceed to the north shores of Lancaster Sound and
Wellington Channel.

" On passing Cape York, (the 14th inst.,) natives were
seen. By the directions of Captain Austin I landed,
and communicated with them, when we were informed
that they had seen a ship in that neighborhood in the
spring, and that she was housed in. Upon this intelli-
gence I shipped one of the natives, who volunteered to
join us as interpreter and guide.

"On parting with Captain Austin we proceeded
toward Wolstenholme Island, where I left the ship and
proceeded in her Majesty's steam- vessel Intrepid into
Wolstenholme Sound, and by the guidance of the Esqui-
maux, succeeded in finding a bay about thirteen miles
further in, and sheltered by a prominent headland. In
the cairns erected here we found a document stating

.,i^v»-

- ^-vr-cv'-'Trv-JiP^"^'- ■- :^'

VOYAQR OF THE RESOLUTE AND ASSISTANCE, ETC. 317

that the KorUi Star had wintered in the bay, a copy
of which I have the honor to transmit to their Lord-
ships.

" Previous to searchinff the spot where the North Star
wintered, I examined the deserted Esquimaux settle-
ment. At this spot we found evident traces of some
ship having been in the neighborhood, from empty pre-
served meat canisters and some clothes left near a pool
C'f water, marked with the name of a coi'poral belonging
to the North Star.

" Having ascertained this satisfactory information, I
returned to Wolstenholme Island, where a document was
deposited recording our proceed inijs. At 6 a. m., of the
16th inst, I rejoined the ship, and proceeded at two to
the westward, and am happy to intbrm you that the
passage across has been made without obstruction, tow-
ing through loose and strangling ice.

"The expedition was beset in Melville Bay, sur-
rounded by heavy and extensive floes of ice, from the
11th of July to the 9th of August, 1850, when, after
threat exertion, a release was effected, and we succeeded
m reaching Cape York by continuing along the edge of
the land-ice, after which we have been fevored with
plenty of water.

" Captain Penny's expedition was in company during
the most part of the time while in Melville Bay, and up
to the 14th inst., when we left him off Cape Dudley
Diggs — all well.

"In crossing Melville Bay we fell in with Sir John
Ross and Captain Forsyth's expeditions. These Capt.
Austin has assisted by towing them toward their desti-
nations. The latter proceedea with him, and the former
has remained with us.

" Having placed Sir John Ross in a fair way of
reaching Lancaster Sound, with a fair wind and open
water, his vessel has been cast off in this position. 1
shall, therefore, proceed with all dispatch to the exami-
nation of the north shores of Lancaster Sound and
Wellington Channel, according to Captain Austin's
directions.

318

rROGKESS OF AUCTIO DISCOVERY.

"I have the honor to be, Sir, your most obedient
humble servant.

"Erasmus Ommaney, Captain."

The Resolute got clear of the Orkneys on the 15th of
May, and arrived with her consort and the two tenders
at the Whale-Fish Islands on the 14th of June.

The Resolute was in Possession Bay on the 17th of
August. From thence her proposed course was along
the coast, northward and westward, to "Whaler Point,
situated at the southern extremity of Port Leopold, and
afterward to Melville Island.

In order to amuse themselves and their comrades, the
ofl&cers of the Assistance had started a MS. newspaper,
under the name of the " Aurora Borealis." Many of
my readers will have heard of the " Cockpit Herald,"
and such other productions of former days, in his Majes-
ty's fleet. Parry, too, liad his journal to beguile the
long hours of the tedious arctic winter.

I have seen copies of this novel specimen of the

'fourth estate," dated Baffin's Bay, June, 1850, in which

there is a happy mixture of grave and gay, prose and

verse ; numerous very fair acrostics are published. I

append, by way of curiosity, a couple of extracts : —

" What insect that Noah had with him, were these
regions named after ? — ^The arc-tic."

" To the editor of the Aurora Borealis.

" Sra, — Having heard from an arctic voyager that he
has seen * crows'-nests' in those icy regions, I beg to
inquire through your columns, if they are built by the
crows, {Corvua tintinnahulus^ which Goodsir states to
utter a metallic bell-like croak ? My fast friend tegs
me to inquire when rook shooting commences in those
diggings ?

" A !N"aturat.i8t.

[" We would recommend to * A IS'aturalist ' a visit to
these ' crows'-nests,' which do exist in the arctic regions.
We would also advise his fast friend to investigate

VOYAGE OF SIR JOHN ROSS IN THE FELIX, ETC. 319

these said nests more thoroughly ; he would find them
tenanted by very old birds (ice quarter-masters,) who
would not only inform him as to the species of crows
and the sporting season, but would give them a fair
chance of showing him how a pigeon may be plucked.
— Editor."]

YoYAGK OF Captain Sir John Boss in the "Felix"
PRIVATE Schooner, 1850-61.

In April, 1850, Captain Sir John Eoss having vol-
unteered his services to proceed in the search, was en-
abled, by the liberality of the Hudson's Bay Company,
who contributed 500^., and public subscription, to leave
England in the Felix schooner, of 120 tons, with a
picked crew, and accompanied by Commander C. Ger-
vans Phillips, R. N. She also had the Mary, Sir John's
own yacht of twelve tons, as a tender. Mr. Abernethy
proceeded as ice-master, having accompanied Sir John
in his former voyage to Boothia; and Mr. Sivewright
was mate of the Felix. The vessels sailed from Scot-
land on the 23d of May, and reached Holsteinborg in
June, where Captain Ross succeeded in obtaining a
Danish interpreter who understood the Esquimaux
language ; he then proceeded on, calling at the Whale-
Fish Islands, and passing northway through the Way-
gatt Strait, overtook, on the 10th of August, H. M.
ships Assistance and Resolute, with their tenders the
Intrepid and Pioneer, under the command of Caplain
Austin.

On the 13th of August, Captain Ommaney in the
Assistance, and Sir John Ross in the Felix, being
somewhere off Cape York, observed three male Es-
(juimaux on the ice close by, and with these people
it was prudently resolved to communicate. Accord-
ingly, Lieutenant Cator in the Intrepid steamer, tender
to the Assistance, and Commander Phillips in the
whale-boat of the Felix, put off on this service. The
Intrepid's people arrived first, but apparently witliout
any means of expressing their desires, so that when the

320

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

boat of the Felix, containing an Esquimaux interpreter,
joined the party, the natives immediately gave signs
of recognition and satisfaction, came into the boat with-
out the least hesitation, and engaged themselves pre-
sently in a long and animated conversation with theii
countryman the interpreter. Half an hour was de-
voted to this interchange of intelligence, but with no
immediate result, for the interpreter could only trans-
late his native language into Danish, and as no person
in the boat understood Danish, the informal on re-
mained as inaccessible as before. In this predicament
the boats returned with the intention of confronting the
interpreter — whose christianized name is Adam Beek
— with Sir John Ross himself. As iSir John, however,
was pushing ahead in the Felix toward Cape Dudley
Diggs, and as Adam appeared anxious to disburden
himself of his newly acquired information, the boats
dropped on board the rrince Albert, another of the
exploring vessels in the neighborhood, and there put
Adam in communication with the captain's steward,
John Smith, who " understood a little oi the language,"
as Sir John Ross says, or "a good deal," as Com-
mander Phillips says, and who presently gave such aD
account of the intelligence as startled every body on
board. Its purport was as follows; — ^That in the win-
ter of 1846, when the snow was falling, two ships were
crushed bv the ice a good way off in the direction of
Cape Dudley Diggs, and afterward burned by a fierce
and numerous tribe of natives ; that the ships in ques-
tion were not whalers, and that epaulettes were worn
by some of the white men ; that a part of the crews
were drowned, that the remainder were some time in
huts or tents apart from the natives, that they had guns,
but no balls, and that being in a weak and exhausted
condition, they were subsequently killed by the natives
with darts or arrows. This was the form given to the
Esquimaux story by John Smith, captain's steward of
the Prince Albert. Impressed with the iniportance of
these tidings, Captain Ommaney and Commander
Phillips immediately made their report to Captain

VOYAGE OF SIR JOHN R0B8 IN THE FELIX, ETC. 321

Austin in the Resolute, which was then in company
with the Felix near Cape Dudley Diggs. Captain Aus-
tin at once decided upon investigating the credibility
of the story, and with this view dispatched a message
to the Lady Franklin, another of the exploring ships,
which lay a few miles off, and which had on board a
regular Danish interpreter. This interpreter duly ar-
rived, but proceeded forthwith to translate the story by
a statement " totally at variance " with the interpreta-
tion of " the other," whom, as we are told, he called a
liar and intimidated into silence ; though no sooner was
the latter left to himself than he again repeated his
version of the tale, and stoutly maintained its accuracy.
Meantime an additional piece of information became
known, namely, that a certain ship had passed the win-
ter safely housed in Wolstenholme Sound — a state-
ment soon ascertained by actual investigation to be
perfectly true. The following is an extract of a letter
from —

Captain Sir John Hoss, R. iV., to Captain W. A.B,
Mamilton^ R. iT., Secreta/ry of the Admiralty.

" * Felix ' discovery yacht^ off Admiralty Inlet^
" Lancaster Sounds August 22.

" Sm, — I have to acquaint you, for the information
of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, that the
Felix discovery yacht, with her tender, the Mary, after
obtaining an Esquimaux interpreter at Holsteinborg,
and calling at "Whale-Fish Islands, proceeded north way
through the Waygatt Straits, and overtook her Ma-
jesty's discovery ships, under the command of Captain
Austin on the 11th of August ; and on the 12th the
senior oflScer and the second in command having cor-
dially communicated with me on the best mode of
performing the service on which we are mutually em-
barked, arrangements were made and concluded for a
simultaneous examination of every part of the eastern
side of a northwest passage in which it was probable
that the missing ships coiud be bound : documents t »

4
J''

822

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

'^,

that effect were exchanged, and subsequently assented
to by Captains Forsyth and Penny.

" On the 13th of August natives were discovered on
the ice near to Cape lork, with whom it was deemed
advisable to communicate. On this service, Lieutenant
Cator, in the In'repid, was detached on the part of
Captain Austin, and on my part Commander Phillips,
witn our Esquimaux interpreter, in the whale-boat of
the Felix. It was found by Lieutenant Cator that Cap-
tain Penny had left with the natives a note for Captain
Austin, but only relative to the state of the navigation ;
however, when Commander Phillips arrived, the Esqui-
maux, seeing one apparently of their own nation in the
whale-boat, came immediately to him, when a Ions
conversation took place, the purport of which could
not be made known, as the interpreter could not ex-
plain himself to any one, either in the Intrepid or the
whale-boat, (as he understands only the Danish besides
his own language,) until he was brought on board the
Prince Albert, where John Smith, the captain's stew-
ard of that vessel, who had been some years at the
Hudson's Bay settlement of Churchill, and understands
a little of the language, was able to give some expla-
nation of Adam Beck's information, which was deemed
of such importance that Captains Ommaney, Phillips,
and Forsyth, proceeded in the Intrepid to the Resolute,
when it was decided by Captain Austin to send for the
Danish Interpreter of the Lady Franklin, which, hav-
ing been unsuccessful in an attempt at getting through
the ice to the westward, was only a few miles distant.
In the mean time it was known that, in addition to the
first information, a ship, which could only be the North
Star, had wintered in W olstenholme Sound, called by
the natives Ourinak, and had only left it a month ago.
This proved to be true, but the interpretation of the
Dane was totally at variance with the information given
by the other, who, although for obvious reasons he did
not dare to contradict the Dane, subsequently main-
tained the truth of his statement, which induced Cap-
tain Austin to dispatch the Intrepid with Captains

VOYAGE OF Sm JOHN ROSS IN TIIE FELIX, ETC. 323

Ommaney and Phillips, taking with them both onr in-
terpreters, Adam Beek and a young native who had
been persuaded to come as one of the crew of the As-
sistance, to examine Wolstenholme Sound. In the
mean time it had been unanimously decided that no
alteration should be made in our previous arrangement,
it being obvious that while there remained a chance of
saving the lives of those of the missing ships who may
be yet alive, a further search for those who had per-
ished should be postponed, and accordingly the Reso-
lute, Pioneer, and Prince Albert parted company on
the 15th. It is here unnecessary to give the ofhcial re-
ports made to me by Commanaer Phillips, which are
of course transmitted by me to the Secretary of the
Hudson's Bay Company, which, with the information
written in the Esquimaux language by Adam Beek,
will no doubt be sent to you for their Lordships' infor-
mation ; and it will be manifest by these reports that
Commander Phillips has performed his duty with sa-
f^acity, circumspection, and address, which do him in-
finite credit, altnough it is only such as I must have
expected from so intelligent an officer; and I have
much satisfaction in adding that it has been mainly
owing to his zeal and activity that I was able, under
disadvanta<re' us circumstances, to overtake her Majes-
ty's ships, waile by his scientific acquirements and ac-
curacy in surveying, he has been able to make many
important corrections and valuable additions to the
charts of the much-frequented eastern side of Baffin's
Bay, .^hich has been more closely observed and navi-
gated by us than by any former expedition, and, much
to my satisfaction, confirming the latitude aud longi-
tude of every headland I had an opportunity of laying
down in the year 1818.

" I have only to add that I have much satisfaction
in co-operating with her Majesty's expedition. "With
such support and with such vessels so particularly
adapted for the service, no exertion shall be wanting
on my part. But I cannot conclude this letter without
acknowledging my obligations to Commodore Austin

3i4

TROGUESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

and Captain Ommaney for tho assistance they have af-
forded me, and for tho cordiality and courtesy with
which I have been treated by these distinguished offi-
cers and others of the ships under their orders. Ani-
mated as we are with an ardent and sincere desire to
rescue our imperiled countrymen, I confidently trust
;hat our unitea exertions and humble endeavors nia}^
mder a merciful Providence, be completely successful,
"I am, with truth and regard, Sir, your faithful and
obedient servant,

"John Ross, Captain, E. N."

By the accounts brought home by Commander For-
syth from Lancaster Sound, to the 25th of August, it
is stated that Sir John Eoss, in the Felix, intended to
return to England.

The ice was at that period very heavy, extending all
around from Leopold Island, at the entrance of Regent
Inlet, to Cape Farewell, to the westward, so as to pre-
vent the possibility of any of the vessels pushing on to
Cape Walker. When the Prince Albert was between
Cape Spencer and Cape Innes, in "Wellington Channel,
Mr. Snow went at noon to the mast-head, and saw II.
M. Ship Assistance as near as possible within Cape
Hotham, under a press of sail. Her tender, the In-
trepid, was not seen, but was believed to be with her.
Captain Penny, with his two ships, the Lady Franklin
and Sophia, was endeavoring to make his way up the
same Channel, but it was feared the ice would ulti-
mately be too strong for him, and that he would have
to return home, leaving Captain Austin^s squadron only
to winter in the ice.

The American man-of-war brig Rescue was close be
set with the ice near Cape Bowen.

The Pioneer was with the Resolute on the 17th
August.

LADY franklin's API'EAL TO AMERICAN NATION. 325

A fERICAN SeARCHINO EXPEDITION. UnITED StATES'

^iiips, " Advance " and " Rescue," under the Com-
mand OF Lieutenant De Haven, 1860-51.

In the spring of 1849, Lady Franklin made a touch-
ing and pathetic appeal to the feelings of the American
nation, in the following letter to the President of the
Republic : —

The Lady of Sir John Franhlin to the President.

^^ Bedford-place^ London^ ^th Aprils 1849.

"Sir, — I address myself to you as the head of a
great nation, whose power to help me I cannot doubt,
and in whose disposition to do so I have a confidence
which I trust you will not deem presumptuous.

"The name of my husband. Sir John Franklin, is
probably not unknown to you. It is intimately con-
nected with the northern part of that continent of
which the American republic forms so vast and con-
spicuous a portion. When I visited the United States
three years ago, among the many proofs I received of
respect and courtesy, there was none which touched
and even surprised me more than the appreciation
everywhere expressed to me of his former services in
geographical discovery, and the interest felt in the en-
terprise in which he was then known to be engaged."

•»

[Her ladyship here gives the details of the departure

of the expedition, and the measures already taken for

its relief.]

* « « « *

" I have entered into these details with the view of
proving that, though the British government has not
forgotten the duty it owes to the brave men whom it
has sent on a perilous service, and has spent a very
large sum in providing the means for their rescue, yet
that, owing to various causes, the means actually in
operation for this purpose are quite inadequate to meet
the extreme exigence of the case ; for, it mast bo

'it

326

PROGRESS OF AEOTIO DISCOVERY.

remembered, that the missing ships were victualed for
three years only, and that nearly four years have now
elapsed, so that the survivors of so many winters in the
ice must be at the last extremity. And also, it must
be borne in mind, that the channels by which the ships
may have attempted to force a passage to the westward,
or which they may have been compelled, by adverse
circumstances, to take, are very numerous and compli-
cated, and that one or two ships cannot possibly, in the
course of the next short summer, explore them all.

" The Board of Admiralty, under a conviction of this
fact, has been induced to offer a reward of 20,000/.
sterling to any ship or ships, of any country, or to any
explormg party wnatever, which shall render efficient
assistance to the missing ships, or their crews, or to any
portion of them. This announcement, which, even if
the sum had been doubled or trebled, would have met
with public approbation, comes, however, too late for
our whalers, which had unfortunately sailed before it
was issued, and which, even if the news should over-
take them at their fishing-grounds, are totally unfitted
for any prolonged adventure, having only a few months'
provision on board, and no additional clothing. To the
American whalers, both in the Atlantic and Pacific, I
look with more hope, as competitors for the prize, be-
ing well aware of their numoers and strength, their
thorough equipment, and the bold spirit of enterprise
which animates their crews. But 1 venture to look
even beyond these. I am not without hope that you
will deem it not unworthy of a great and kindred na-
tion to take up the cause of humanity which I plead, in
a national spirit, and thus generously make it your own.

" I must nere, in gratitude, adduce the example of
the imperial Russian government, which, as I am led
to hope by his Excellency, the Eussian embassador in
London, who forwarded a memorial on the subject, will
send out exploring parties this summer, from the Asiatic
side of Behrinff's Strait, northward, in search of the
lost vessels. It would be a* noble spectacle to the
World, if three great nations, possessed of the widest

LADY franklin's APPEAL TO AMERICAN NATION. 327

empires on the face of the globe, were thus to unite
their efforts in the truly christian work of saving their
perishing fellow-men from destruction.

" It is not for me to suggest the mode in which such
benevolent efforts might best bo made. 1 will only say,
however, that if the conceptions of my own mind, to
which I do not venture to give utterance, were realized,
and that in the noble competition which followed, Amer-
ican seamen had the good fortune to wrest from us the
glory, as might be the case, of solving the problem of
the unfound passage, or the still greater glory of saving
our adventurous navigators from a lingering fate which
the mind sickens to dwell on, though i should in either
case regret that it was not my own brave countrymen
in those seas whose devotion was thus rewarded, yet
should I rejoice that it was to America we owed our
restored happiness, and should be forever bound to her
by ties of affectionate gratitude.

" I am not without some misgivings while I thus ad-
dress you. The intense anxieties of a wife and of a
daughter may have led me to press too earnestly on
your notice the trials under which we are suffering,
(yet not we only, but hundreds of others,) and to pre-
sume too much on the sympathy which we are assured
is felt beyond the limits of our own land. Yet, if
you deem this to be the case, you will still find, I am
sure, even in that personal intensity of feeling, an
excuse for the fearlessness wifh which I have throwit
myself on your generosity, and will pardon the hom
age I thus pay to your own high character, and to thr
of the people over whom you have the distinction t^
preside. " I have, &c.,

(Signed) "Janz Fbanklin."

To which the following reply was received : —

Mr, Cla/yton to Lady Jcme Franklin.

'''' Depa/rtment of State^ Washington^
" 25^A April, 1849.

"Madam, — ^Your letter to the President of the United
States, dated April 4th, 1849, has been received by

328

rROORKSa OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

liim, and ho has instructed me to make to you the fol-
low ini^ reply : —

" The api)eal made in the letter with which you have
honored him, is such as would strongly enlist the sym-
pathy of the rulers and the people of any portion of
the civilized world.

" To the citizens of the United States, who share so
largely in the emotions which agitate the public mind
in your own country, the name of Sir John Franklin
has been endeared by his heroic virtues, and the sufter-
ings and sacrifices which he has encountered for the
benefit of mankind. The appeal of his wife and daugh-
ter, in their distress, has been borne across the waters,
asking the assistance of a kindred people to save the
brave men who embarked in this unfortunate expedi-
tion ; and the people of the United States, who have
watched with the deepest interest that hazardous enter-
prise, will now respond to that appeal, by the expression
of their united wishes that every proper effort may bo
made by this government for the rescue of your hus-
band and his companions.

" To accomplish the objects you have in view, the
attention of American navigators, and especially of
our whalers, will be immediately invoked. All the in-
formation in the possession of this government, to
enable them to aid in discovering the missing ships,
relieving their crews and restoring them to their fami-
lies, shall be spread far and wide among our people ;
and all that the executive government of the United
States, in the exercise of its constitutional powers, can
effect, to meet this requisition on American enterprise,
skill and bravery, will be promptly undertaken.

" The hearts of the American people will bo deeply
touched by your eloquent address to their Chief Magis-
trate, and they will join with you in an earnest prayer
to Ilim whose spirit is on the waters, that your husband
and his companions may yet be restored to their coun-
try and their friends.

" I have, &c.,
(Signed) " John M. Clayton."

LADY FUANKLIN 8 AITEAL TO AMERICAN NATION. 329

A second letter wfts also addressed by Lady Franklin
to the President in the close of that year, after the forced
return of Captain Sir James Koss, from whose activo
exertions so much had been expected —

The Lady of Sir John Franklin to the President.
" Spring Gardens^ London^ Wth Dec.^ 1849.

"Sir, — I had the honor of addressing myself to
you, in the month of April last, in behalf of my hus-
band, Sir John Franklin, his otiicers and crews, who
were sent by Her Majesty's government, in the spring
of 1845, on a maritime expedition for a discovery ot
the northwest passage, and who have never since been
heard of.

"Their mysterious fate has excited, I believe, tho
deepest interest throughout the civilized world, but no-
where more so, not even in England itself, than in tho
United States of America. It was under a deep con-
viction of this fact, and with the humble hope tnat an
a]ipeal to those general sentiments would never l»o
made altogether in vain, that I ventured to lay before
you the necessities of that critical period, and to ask
yon to take up the cause of humanity which I pleaded,
and £;enerousIv make it your own.

" How nobly you, sir, and the American people,
responded to that appeal, — how kindly and courteously
tliat response was conveyed to me, — is known wherever
our common language is spoken or understood ; and
though difRculties, which were mainly owing to the
advanced state of the season, presented themselves after
your official announcement had been made known to our
government, and prevented the immediate execution of
your intentions, yet tho generous pledge you had given
was not altogether withdrawn, and hope still remained
to me that, should the necessity for renewed measures
continue to exist, I might look again across the waters
for the needed succor.

" A period has now, alas, arrived, when our dearest
hopes as to the safe return of the discovery ships this
autumn are finally crushed by the unexpected, though

330

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

forced return of Sir James Koss, without any tidings of
them, and also by the close of the arctic season. And
not only have no tidings been brought of their safety or
of their fate, but even the very traces of their course
have yet to be discovered ; for such was the concur-
rence of unfortunate and unusual circumstances attend-
ing the eflForts of the brave and able officer alluded to,
that he was not able to reach those points where indi-
cations of the course of discovery ships would most
probably be found. And thus, at the close of a second
season since the departure of the recent expedition of
search, we remain in nearly the same state of ignorance
respecting the missing expedition as at the moment of
its starting from our shores. And in the mean time our
brave countrymen, whether clinging still to their ships,
or dispersed in various directions, have entered upon a
fifth winter in those dark and dreary solitudes, with
exhausted means of sustenance, while yet their expected
succor comes not !

" It is in the time, then, of their greatest peril, in the
day of their extremest need, that I venture, encouraged
by your former kindness, to look to you again for some
active efforts which may come in aid of those of my
own country, and add to the means of search. Her
Majesty's Ministers have alreadv resolved on sending
an expedition to Behring's Strait, and doubtless have
other necessary measures in contemplation, supported
as they are, in every means that can be devised for this
humane purpose, by the sympathies of the nation, and
by the ffenerous solicitude which our Queen is known
to feel in the fate of her brave people imperiled in their
c<»nntrv's service. But, whatever be the measures con-
templ^ced by the Admiralty, they cannot be such as
will leave no room or necessity for more, since it is
only by the multiplication of means, and those vigorous
and instant ones, that we can hope, at this last stage,
and in this last hour, perhaps, of the lost navigators'
existence, to snatch them from a dreary grave. And
surely, till the shores and seas of those frozen regions
have been swept in all directions, or until some memo-

LIEUTENANT OSBOBN S SUOOESTIONS.

331

rial be found to attest their fate, neither England, who
sent them out, nor even America, on whose snores they
have been launched in a cause which has interested the
world for centuries, will deem the question at rest

^' May it please God so to move the hearts and wills
of a great and kindred people, and of their chosen
Chief Magistrate, that they may join heart and hand
in the generous enterprise I The respect and admiration
of the world, which watches with growing interest every
movement of your great republic, will toUow the chiv-
alric and humane endeavor, and the blessing of them
who were ready to perish shall come to you I

" I have, &c.,
(Signed) Jane Franklin.

'•^His Excellency the President of the United States^

In a very admirable letter addressed to Lady Frank-
lin in February, 1850, by Lieut. Sherard Osbom, R. N.,
occur the following remarks and suggestions, which
appear to me so explicit and valuable that I publish
them entire : —

^^ Great Ealing^ Middlesex^ 6th Eeh'uary, 1850.

" My Dear Lady Fbanklin. — It is of course of vital
importance that the generous co-operation of the Ameri-
cans in the rescue of Sir John Franklin and his crews
be directed to points which call for search, and at the
same time give them a clear field for the exercise of
their energy and emulation. It would be a pity, for
instance, if they should be merely working on the same
ground with oureelvcs, while extensive portions of the
Arctic Sea, in which it is equally probable the lost ex-
pedition may be found, should be left unexamined ; and
none, in my opinion, offers a better prospect of success-
ful search than the coasts of Bepulse Bay, Hecla and
Fury Strait, Committee Bay, Felix Harbor, the estuary
of the Great Fish River, and Simpson's Strait, with the
sea to the northwest of it. My reasons for saying so
are as follows ; —

3S2

PR0GKES8 OF AECTIC DISCOVERY.

" Suppose Sir John Franklin to have so far carried
out the tenor of his orders as to have penetrated south-
west from Cape Walker, and to have been either ' cast
away,' or hopelessly impeded by ice, and that either in
the past or present year he found it necessary to quit
his ships, they being anywhere between 100° and 108°
west longitude, and 70° and 73° north latitude. Now,
to retrace his steps to Cape Walker, and thence to Re-
gent Inlet, would be no doubt the first suggestion that
would arise. Yet there are objections to it : firstly, he
Vi^ould have to contend against the prevailing set of tlio
ice, and currents, and northerly wind ; secondly, if no
whalers were found in Lancaster Sound, how was he
to support his large party in regions where the musk
ox or reindeer is never seen? thirdly, leaving hip
ships in the summer, he knew he could only reacli the
whaling ground in the fall of the year ; and, in such
case, would it not be advisable to make rather for
the southern than the northern limit of the seas vis-
ited by the whalers ? fourthly, by edging to the south
rather than the north. Sir John Franklin would be
falling back to, i ather than going from, relief, and in-
crease the probabilities of providmg food for his large
party.

" 1 do not believe he would have decided on going
due south, because the lofty land of Victoria Island
was in his road, and when he did reach the American
shore, he would only attain a desert, of whose horrors
he no doubt retained a vivid recollection ; and a
lengthy land journey of more than 1000 miles to the
Hudson's Bay settlements was more than his men were
capable of.

" There remains, therefore, but one route for Sir Jolm
under such circumstances to follow ; and it decidedly
has the following merits, that of being in a direct line
for the southern limit of the whale fishery ; that of
leading through a series of narrow seas adapted for tho
navigation of small open boats ; that of being the most
expeditious route by which to reach Fort Churchill, in
Hudson's Bay ; that of leading through a region visited

LIECTENAKT OSBORN S SUGGESTIONS.

333

by Esquimaux and migratory animals ; and this route
is through the ' Strait of Sir James Boss,' across the
narrow isthmus of Boothia Felix, (which, as you re-
minded me to-day, was not supposed to exist when Sir
John Franklin left England, and has been since discov-
ered,) into the Gulf of Boothia, where he could either
pass by Hecla and Fury Strait into the fishing-ground
of Hudson's Strait, or else go southward down Commit-
tee Bay, across the Rae Isthmus into Repulse Bay, and
endeavor from there to reach some vessels in Hudson's
Bay, or otherwise Fort Churchill.

" It is not unlikely either, that when Franklin had
got to the eastern extremity of James Ross's Strait,
and found the land to be across his path where he had
expected to find a strait, that his party might have di-
vided, and the more active portion of them attempted
to ascend the Great Fish River, where we have Sir
George Back's authority for supposing they would find,
close to the arctic shores, abundance of food in fish,
and herds of reindeer, &c., while the others traveled
on the road I have already mentioned.

" To search for them, therefore, on this line of retreat,
I should think highly essential, and if neglected this
year, it must be done next ; and if not done by the
Americans, it ought to be^done by us.

" 1 therefore suggest the following plan : — Suppose
a well-equipped expedition to leave America in Ma}*,
and to enter Hudson's Strait, and then divide into two
divisions. The first division might go northward,
through Fox's Channel to Hecla and Fury Strait, exam
ine the shores of the latter carefully, deposit provisions
at the western extreme, erect conspicuous beacons, and
proceed to Melville or Felix Harbor, in Boothia, secure
their vessel or vessels, and dispatch, as soon as circum-
stances would allow, boat parties across the neck of
the isthmus into the western waters. Here let them
divide, and one party proceed through James Ross'a
Strait, carefully examining the coast, and push over sea,
ice, or land, to the northwest as far as possible. Tho
other boat party to examine the estuary oi* the Great

334

rnOGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

Fish River, and thenoe proceed westward along the
coast of Simpson's Strait, and, if possible, examine the
broad bay formed between it and Dease's Strait.

"The second division, on parting company, raighi
pass south of Southampton Island, and coast along from
Chesterfield Inlet northward to Repulse Bay, a boat
party with two boats might cross Rae Isthmus into the
bottom of Committee Bay, with instructions to visit
both shores of the said bay, and to rendezvous at the
western entrance of Hecla and Fury Strait. The sec-
ond division ( be it one or more vessels) should then
pass into Fox's Channel, and turning through Hecla
and Fury Strait, pick up the boats at the rendezvous ;
and thence, if the first division have passed on all right,
and do not require reinforcement, the second division
should steer northward along the unknown coast, ex-
tending as far as Cape Kater ; from Cape Kater pro-
ceed to Leopold Island, and having secured their ships
there, dispatch boat or traveling parties in a direction
southwest from Cape Rennell, in North Somerset, be-
ing in a parallel line to the line of search we shall
adopt from Cape Walker, and at the same time it will
traverse the unknown sea beyond the Islands lately
observed by Captain Sir James Ross.

"Some such plan as this vould, I think, insuie youi
gallant husband being met or assisted, should he be to
the south or the west af Cape Walker, and attempt to
return by a southeast course, a direction which, I think,
others as well as myself would agree in thinking a very
rational and probable one.

" I will next apeak of an argument which has been
brought forward in consequence of no traces of the
missing expedition having been discovered in Lancas-
ter Sound ; that it is quite possible, if Franklin failed
in getting through the middle ice from Melville Bay to
Lancaster Sound, that, sooner than disappoint public
anxiet}' and expectation of a profitable result arising
from his expedition, he may have turned northward,
and gone up Smith'^ Sound ; every mite beyond its en-
trance was new ground, and therefore a reward to the

DEBATE IN OONGRESS.

335

discoverer. It likewise brought them nearer the pole,
and may be they found that open sea of which Baron
"Wrangel speaks so constantly in his journeys over the
ice northward from Siberia.

"It is therefore desirable that some vessels should
carefully examine the entrance of this sound, and visit
all the conspicuous headlands for some considerable
distance within it; for it ought to be borne in mind,
that localities perfectly accessible for the purpose of
erecting beacons, &c., one season, may be quite im-
practicable the next, and Franklin, late in the season
and pressed for time, would not have wasted time, scal-
ing bergs to reach the shore and pile up cairns, of
which, in all the sanguine hope of success, he could not
have foreseen the necessity.

" Should any clue be found to the lost expedition in
this direction, to follow it up would, of course, be the
duty of the relieving party, and every thing would de-
pend necessarily upon the judgment of the commanders.

"In connection with this line of search, I think a
small division of vessels, starting from Spitzbergen, and
pushing from it in a northwest direction, might be of
great service ; for on reference to the chart, it will be
seen that Spitzbergen is as near the probable position
of Franklin (if he went north about,) on the east, as
Behring's Strait is upon the west ; and the probability
of reaching the meridian of 80° west from Spitzbergen
is equally as good as, if not better than, Behring's Strait,
and, moreover, a country capable of supporting life
always in the rear to fall back upon.

, " Sheraed Osrorn,
"Lieutenant Koyal Navy.

"To Lady Franklin."

Debate m the American Congress.

The following remarks of honorable members and
senators, in defense of the bill for carrying out Mr.
GrinnelPs expedition, will explain the grounds on which
the government countenance was invojked for the noble
^undertaking : —

t' ft

je ^

836

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

"Mr. Miller: I prefer that the government should
have the entire control of this enterprise ; but, Sir, I
do not think that can be accomplished ; at all events, it
cannot within the time required to produce the good
results which are to be hoped from this expedition. It
is well known to all that the uncertain fate of Sir John
Franklin and his companions has attracted the attention
and called forth the sympathies of the civilized world.
This government, Sir, has been indiiFerent to the call.
An application, an appeal was made to this government
of no ordinary character ; one which was cheerfully'
entertained by the President, and which he was anxiou*
should be complied with. But it is known to the coun
try and to the Senate that, although the President had
every disposition to send out an expedition in search
of Sir John Franklin, it was found upon inquiry that
we had no ships fitted for the occasion, and that the
Executive had no authority to procure them for an ex-
pedition of this kind, and suitable for this sort of navi-
gation. The Executive was therefore obliged, for want
of authority to build the ships, to forego further action
on this noble enterprise, until Congress should meet,
and authorize the expedition.

"In the mean time, Mr. Grinnell, one of the most
respectable and worthy merchants of the city of New
York, understanding the difficulty that the government
had in fitting out the expedition, has gone to work, and
with his own means has built t\;«o small vessels espe-
cially prepared for the expedition ; and he now most
generously tenders them to the government, not to be
under his own control, but the control of the govern-
ment, and to be made part of the navy of the United
States. The honorable senator from Alabama (Mr.
King) is mistaken with regard to the terms and effect
of this resolution. This resolution places these two
ships under the control of the government, as much
so as if they were built expressly for the navy of the
United States. Their direction, their fitting out, their
officers and mon, are all to be under the control of
the Executive. Their officers are to be officwrs of our

DEBATE IN CONGRESS.

837

navy — their seamen the seamen of our navy — so that
the expedition will be as thoroughly under the control of
this government as if the ships belonged to us. Now,
Sir, I should have no objections myself to amend this
resolution so as to authorize the purchase of these two
small vessels at once, and make them a part of our na-
val establishment ; but, whon I recollect the magnani-
mous feeling which urgea ^.is noble-hearted merchant
to prepare these ships, I know that that same feeling
would forbid him to make merchandise of that which
he lias devoted to humanity. He offers them for this
great cause ; they are his property, prepared for this
enterprise, and he offers them to us to be used by the
government in this great undertaking. "We must either
accept them for the purpose to which he has dedicated
them, or reject them altogether. If we refuse these
ships, we will defeat the whole enterprise, and lose all
opportunity of participation in a work of humanity
which now commands the attention of the world.

" If we refer this resolution back to the committee,
and they report a bill authorizing government to build
ships to carry on the expedition on its own account, it
would be attended with very great delay, and, in my
opinion defeat the object we have in view. In a case
of this kind time is every thing. It must be done speed-
ily, if done at all. Every hour's delay may be worth
the life of a man. Sir John Franklin and his compan-
ions may ere this have perished, but our hope is that
they are still living in some narrow sea, imprisoned by
walls of ice, where our succor may yet reach them.
But, Sir, whether our hopes are fallacious or not, the
public feeling — the feeling of humanity — is, that the
fate of Sir John Franklin should, if possible, be ascer-
tained, and as soon as possible. The public mind will
never be satisfied till an expedition from this country,
or from some other country, shall have ascertained their
fate. I therefore trust that this resolution, as it is, will
be acted upon at once, and that it will receive the
unanimous vote of the Senate. * * * *

" I am so impressed Mr. President, with the impor-

15*

338

PEOQRESS OF ARCTIO DISCOVERY.

tance of time as regards the disposal of this question,
that I hesitate even to occupy the attention of the
Senate for a few moment" ; and I only do so for the
purpose of con ^^.ting some views which have been ex-
pressed by the senator from Mississippi. * * * The
question is, whether we shall adopt this resolution, and
immediately send forth this expedition for the purpose
of accomplishing this great object, or whether we shall
throw back this resolution to drag its slow course
through Congress, in the form of another bill, to make
an appropnation for the purpose of building vessels.
Por what object? To secure, as the senator says, to the
United States, the sole honor and glory of this expedi-
tion. Sir, if this expedition is got up merely for honor
and glory either to the United States or to an individual,
I will have nothing whatever to do with it. Sir, there
is a deeper and a higher sentiment that has induced the
action of Congress on this subject. It is to engage in
a great work of humanity, to do that which is not only
bemg done by the government of England, but by pri-
vate individuals, who are fitting out expeditions at their
own expense, and sending them to the northern seas,
for the purpose of discovering the tate of this great
man, who had periled his life in the cause of science
and of commerce.

" Mr President, I have been informed that a private
expedition is now being fitted out in England under the
direction of that great commander, or I may call him
the king of the Polar Seas, Sir John Koss, who ie going
again to devote himself and his life to this perilous ex-
pedition. Sir, altogether I have not had heretofore
much confidence in the success of this expedition, yet
when I consider the reputation of Sir John Ross, and
the fact that he is better acquainted with those seas
than any other man living, and understanding that he
entertains the belief that Sir John Franklin and his
companions are yet alive, and may be rescued, — I say,
finding such a man as Sir John Ross engaged in an ex-
pedition of this kind, I am not without nope that our
efforts may, under Providence, be crowned with success.

DEBATE IN CONGKESS.

339

But the honorable senator says that nothing is likely to
be derived from this expedition but honor and glory,
and that that is to be divided between the government
of the United States and a private individual. Sir, is
there nothing to be derived from the performance of an
act of humanity but honor and glory ? Sir, it is said
that in this instance both the government and the indi-
vidual alluded to are engaged m the same work. Well,
Sir, what objection can there be to that connection?
Does the honorable senator from Mississippi envy the
individual his share of the honor and glory ? Does he
desire to monopolize it all to tlie United States ? I hope
he has no such feeling as that.

" But, Mr. President, the honorable senator made use
of an expression which 1 think he will withdraw. He
intimated, if I understood him rightly, some suspicion
that this was a matter of speculation on the part of Mr.
Grinnell.

" Mr. FooTE : I said I had heard such a thing sug-
gested ; but I do not make any such charge myself.

" Mr. Miller : I have heard this urged as an objec-
tion heretofore, but I am satisfied that if the senator
from Mississippi knew the character and the history of
this gentleman, he would not even repeat that he had
heard such an insinuation. Sir, although this is a
liberal donation from an individual, the sum need not
alarm gentlemen about after claims. These ships are
but small ships ; and it is necessjirv that they should be
small in order that they may be effective. One of them
is, I understand, 150 tons, and the other 90 tons. They
have cost, I believe, 30,000 dollars. Now, when we
find this merchant devoting his property, not for the
purpose of building ships to convey merchandise to the
markets of the world ; when we find him retiring from
the ordinary course of commercial pursuit in which all
the world is engaged, and devoting a portion of his
fortune to the building of ships that can be used for no
other purpose but in this voyage of humanity, can it be
imagined that any thought of speculation on his part
could have influenced his conduct ? No, Sir. On the

840

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

contrary, it is a high and wortliy motive ; and I think
it ought to receive the ui^probation of this and all other
intelligent Christian nations, to see a merchant, who,
while the commercial world are encompassing the
globe by sea and land in quest of proiit and of gold, is
dedicating himself to his great object, and devoting a
part of his fortune to the cause of iiunumity, and olier-
ing to government, not as a bounty, but because the
government, with all its means, has not the power and
the time to prepare vessels to do this work. That, Sir.
is the object.

" Now, if we do not accept these ships, there will bo
an end of this expedition. Sir, shall it be said, that
this government has lost such an opportunitv as this of
exhibiting the deep interest which our people feel both
in the cause of science and humanity, and that, too, at
the very time when we are entering into treaties and com-
pacts with all the commercial nations of the world, for
the purpose of extending commerce and civilization,
and opening communications of trade from sea to sea^
When the government is not only doing all by its own
power, but also acting in concert with our private citi-
zens in constructing rail-roads and canals, and by vari-
ous other modes extending commercial civilization
throughout the world, shall it be said that we, at this
moment, refused, through the fear of losing a little
honor and glory and national dignity, to accept two
ships — the only two ships in America that can do the
work — in the accomplishment of this great enterprise 'I
I hope not. Let us not, then, cavil and waste time
about these little matters. If the work is to be done
at all it must be done now, and done^ as I conceive, by
the adoption of this resolution.

Governor Seward spoke as follows in the Senate
on the same subject : — "I am happy to perceive, Mr.
President, indications all around the chamber that there
is no disagreement in regard to the importance, or in
relation to the propriety, of a search on the part of this
nation, by the government itself, or by individual citi-
zens, for the lost and heroic navigator. Since so much

IJEBATE IN CONORFSS.

341

*8 conceded, and since I come from the State whenco
this proposition emanates, J desire to notice, in a very
few words, the objections raised a«j;ainst the mode of
carrying the proposed design into elfect. It is always
the case, I think, when great objects and great enter-
prises which are feasible are hindered or defeated, that
they are hindered or defeated, not so much by want of
agreement concerning the measures themselves, as by
diversity of opinion concerning the mode of carrying
them into execution. Since this is so generally the
case, the rule which I always adopt, and which seems
to be a safe one, is, that where I cannot have my own
way of obtaining a great public object, I will accept
the best other way which opens before me. Now, I
cordially agree with those honorable Scnat(.<r8 who
would have preferred that at some appropriate time,
and in some proper and unobjectionable manner, the
government should have moved for the attainment of
this object, as a government, and have made it exclu-
sively the act of the nation. And I would ha/e pre-
ferred this, not so much on account of the glory that it
is supposed would have followed it, as because of the
beneficence of the enterprise. Enterprises which
spring from a desire of glory are very apt to end in
disappointment. True national glory is always safely
attained by prosecuting beneficent designs, whatever
may be their success. I say. Sir, then, that I would
have preferred the alternative suggested ; but the fact
is, without stopping to inquire where the fault lies, or
whether there be fault at all, the government has not
moved, and the reason which has been assigned is, 1
have no doubt, the true one. I do not know that it
has ever been contradicted or called in question ; that
reason is, that the Navy of the United States containt
no vessels adapted to the enterprise, but consists of
ships constructed and fitted for very different objects
and purposes than an exploring expedition amid the
ice-bound seas of the arctic pole. Our naval marine
consists of vessels adapted to the purposes of convoys,
military armament, and the suppression of the slave-

'<i

v ■"
■1

312

I'UOGHKlia OK AUCTIC UISCOVKUY.

tradti oil tho coast of Africa. The executive portions
of tho government failed for want of vessels suitable
to be employed in this particular service. It tlierefore
devolved, upon the Legislature of the United States.
But, although we have been here now nearly five
months, no Committee of either House, no member of
either House of Congress has proposed to equip a na-
tional fleet for this purpose. While this fact exists on
one side, it is to be remarked on the other, that the
time has arrived in which the movement must be made
if it is to be made at all, and also that a careful inves-
tigation, made by scientific and practical men, has re-
vived the hope in Europe and America that the humane
object can be attained. There can, then, be no delay
allowed for considering whether the manner for carry-
ing the design into efltect could not be changed. Let
lis, then, practically survey the case as it comes before
us. The government of the United States has really
no vessels adapted to the purpose. To say nothing of
the expense, the government has not time to provide,
prepare, or equip vessels for the expedition. Under
such circumstances, a citizen of the United States
tenders to the government vessels of his own, precisely
adequate in number, and exactly fitted in construction
and equipment, for the performance of the duty to be
assumed. Since he offers them to the government,
what reason can we assign for refusing them? No
reason can be assigned, except that he is too generous,
and offers to give us the use of the vessels instead of
demanding compensation for it. Well, Sir, if we do
accept them it can be immediately carried into execu-
tion, with a cheering prospect of attaining the great
object which the United States and the civilized world
have such deep interest in securing. Then the ques-
tion resolves itself into this — the question raised by
the honorable Senator from Alabama (Mr. King)— r
whether, in seeking so beneficent an object, it is con-
sistent with the dignity of the nation to combine indi-
vidual action with a national enterprise. I do not
think, Mr. President, that that honorable Senator will

DEUATK IN C()NOUE88.

343

find himself oMi^ed to insist upon this ohjectiou after
lie shall have carefully examined the bill before us.
He will find that it converts the undertaking^ into a
national enterprise. The vessels are to be accepted
not as individual property, but as national vessels.
They will absolutely cease to be under the direction,
management, or control of the owners, and will become
at once national ships, and for the thne, at least, and
for all the i)urpo8es of the expedition, a part of the
national marine.

"Now, Sir, have wo not posta/ arrangements with
various foreign countries carried ihto effect in the same
way, and is the dignity of the n:,tion C( riproaiised by
them? During the war with Mexico. •\. 3 government
continually hired ships and steamboat Irom citizens foi
military operations. Is the glc \ tf that war .-rnish'jd
oy the use of those means 'i Che government in this
case, as in those cases, is in no sense a partner. It
assumes the whole control of the vessels, and the enter-
prise becomes a national one. The only circumstance
remaining to be considered is, whether the government
can accept the loan of the service of the vessels without
making compensation. Now, Sir, I should not have had
the least objection, and, indeed, it would have been
more agreeable to me if the government could have
made an arrangement to have paid a compensation.
But I hold it to be vHe unnecessary in the prcf^ent
case because the char oter of the person who tenders
these vessels, and the circumstances and manner of the
whole transaction, show that it is not a speculation.
No compensatioTi is wanted. It would only be a cere-
mony on the part of the government to offer it, and a
ceremony on the part of the merchant to decline it. I
am, therefore, willing to march directlv to the object,
and to assume that these ceremonies have been duly
pertbrmed, that the government has offered to pay, and
the noble-spirited merchant declined to receive.

" Now, then, is there any thing derogatory from the
dignity and independence of this nation in employing
the vessels? Certainly not, since that employment is

i,U«

344

PKOOUKSS OF AKCTIC DISCOVKUV.

indispensable. If it were not indispensable 1 do not
think that the dignity of the Republic would be ini-

E aired ; I think, on the contrary, that it would be en-
anced and elevated. It is a transaction worthy of the
nation, a spectacle deserving the contemplation and
respect of mankind, to see that not only does the nation
prosecute, but that it has citizens able and willing to
contribute, voluntarily and without compulsion, to an
enterprise so interesting to the cause of science and of
humanity. It is indeed a new and distinct cause for
national pride, that an individual citizen, not a merchant
prince, as he would be called in some other countries,
but a republican merchant, comes forward in this way
and moves the government and co-operates with it. It
illustrates the magnanimity of the nation and of the
citizen. Sir, there is nothing objectionable in this fea-
ture of the transaction. It results from the character
of the government, which is essentially popular, that
there are perpetual debates on the question how far
measures and enterprises, for the purposes of humanity
and science, are consistent with the constitutional or-
ganization of the government, although they are ad-
mitted to be eminently compatible with the dignity,
character, and intelligence of the nation. All our en-
terprises, more or less, are carried into execution, if
they are carried into execution at all, not by the direct
action of the government, but by the lending of its
favor, countenance, and aid to individuals, to corpora-
tions, and to States. Thus it is that we construct rail-
roads and canals, and found colleges and universities.
" Nor is this mode of prosecuting enterprises of great
pith and moment peculiar to this government. There
was a navigator who went forth from a port in Spain,
some three or four hundred years ago, on an enterprise
quite as doubtful and quite as perilous as tliis. After
trying unsuccessfully several States, he was forced to be
content with the sanction, and little more than the sanc-
tion and patronage of the Court of Madrid. The scanty
treasures devoted to that undertaking were the private
contributions of a Queen and her Bubjccts, and tlie vca-

DEDATK IN CONGUKSS.

345

Bcls were fitted out and manned at the expense ot'nier-
clumts and citizens, which gave a new world to the
kingdom of Castile and Leon.

" Entertaining these views now, whatever my opinion
might have been imder other circumstances, I shall vote
against a recommittal, and in favor of tlie bill, as the
surest way of preventing its defeat, and of attaining the
sublime and beneficent object which it contemplates."

The committee of both llouses of Congress, to whom
Mr. GriunelPs petition for men and supplies was re-
ferred, made a unanimous report in favor ; and the
vessels letTk on their daring and generous errand.

The following are the joint resolutions which passed
both Houses of Congress and were approved by Gen-
eral Taylor, authorizing the President of the United
States to accept and attach to the U. S. Navy the two
vessels, oiiered by Mr. Grinncll, to be sent to the arctic
seas in search of Sir John Franklin and his companions:

" Resolved by the Senate and House of Represent-
atives of the united States of America in Congress
assembled, Tliat the President be, and he is hereby
authorized and directed, to receive from Henry Grinnell,
of the city of New York, the two vessels prepared by
him for an expedition in search of Sir John Franklin
and his companions, and to detail from the Navy such
commissioned and warrant ofKcers, and so many sea-
men as may be necessary for said expedition, and wlio
may be willing to engage therein. The said officers
and men shall be furnished with suitable rations, at the
discretion of the President, for a period not exceeding
tlu'ce years, and shall have the use of such necessary
instruments as are now on hand and can be spared from
the Navy, to be accounted for or returned by the offi-
cers who shall receive the same.

" Sec. 2. Be it further resolved, Tiiat the said vessels,
officere, and men shall be in all resi)ccts under the laws
and regulations of the Navy of tlie United States until
their return, when the said vessels shall be delivered
to the said Henry Grinnell : Provided, That the United
States shall not be liable to any claim for compensation

ill

346

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DI8CCIVERY.

in case of the loss, damage or deterioration of tlic said
vessels, or either of them, from any cause or in any
manner whatever, nor be liable to any demand for the
use or risk of the said vessels or either of them."

Directly the fact became known that the American
government had nobly come forward to aid in the search
which was being so strenuously made, the different
learned societies of the metropolis vied with each other
in testifying the estimation in which this noble conduct
was held.

At the annual meeting of the Royal Society, on the
Tth of June, upon the motion of Sir Charles Lennox,
seconded by the late Marquis of Northampton, a vote
of thanks was carried with the utmost enthusiasm, ex-
pressive of the gratitude of the Society to the American
government, and of their deep sense of the kind and
brotherly feeling which had prompted so liberal an act
of humanity. A similar vote was carried, on the 11th
of June, at a general meeting of the Royal Geograph-
ical Society, (of which Sir John Franklin was long one
of the vice-presidents.)

The American expedition consists of two brigantines
— now enrolled in the United States Navy — the Ad-
vance, of 144 tons, and the Rescue, 91 tons. These
vessels have been provided and fitted out by the gener-
ous munificence of Mr. Henry Grinnell, a merchant of
New York, at an expense to him of between 5000^. and
6000Z. The American government also did much to-
tvard fitting and equipping them. The Advance was
two years old, and the Rescue quite new. Both vessels
were strengthened in every part, and put in the most
complete order for the service in which they were to be
engaged. They are under the command of Lieutenant
Edward S. De Haven, who was employed in Com-
mander Wilkes' expedition in 1843 ; Mr. S. P. Griffin,
acting master, has charge of the Rescue. The other
oflicers of the expedition are Messrs. W. H. Murdaugb,
acting-master ; T. W. Broadhead, and R. R. Carter,
passed midshipmen ; Dr. E. K. Kane, passed assistant-
Burgeon ; Mr. Benjamin Finland, assistant-surgeon ; "W

THE AMERICAN EXPEDITION.

347

was
jssels
I most
I to be
3nant
iCom-
-iffin,
I other

larter,
3tant-

Novell, midshipman ; H. Brooks, boatswain ; and a
complement of thirty-six seamen in the two vessels —
the crew of the Advance consisting of fifteen men, and
the Rescue thirteen men. The vessels left New York
on the 25th of May, 1850. Their proposed destination
is through Barrow's Strait, westward to Cape Walker,
and round Melville Island. They were provisioned for
three years.

Whatever may be the result of this expedition, as
connected with the fate of the gallant Sir John Frank-
lin, it is one which reflects the highest honor upon the
philanthropic individual who projected it, and upon the
oflicers ana men engaged therein.

A dispatch has been received from Lieutenant De
Haven, dated oft' Leopold Island, August 22d, which
reports the progress of the expedition thus far. The
Advance, in company with her consort, the liescue,
sailed from the Whale Fish Islands on the 29th of June;
after many delays and obstructions from calms, stream
ice, and the main pack, they forced a passage through
it for a considerable distance, but at last got wedged up
in the pack immovably until the 29th of July, when
by a sudden movement of the floes, an opening pre-
sented itself, and under a press of sail the vessels forced
their way into clear water. They encountered a heavy
gale, which, with a thick fog, made their situation very
dangerous, the huge masses of ice being driven along
by the strength of the wind and current with great
fury. By the aid of warping in calm weather, they
reached Cape Yorke on the 15th of August, and a little
to the eastward met with two Esquimaux, but could not
understand much from them. Between Cape Yorke
and Cape Dudley Diggs, while delayed by calms, being
in open water, they hauled the ships into the shore at
the Crimson Cliffs of Beverley, (so named from the red
snow on them,) and filled their water casks from a
mountain stream.

On the 18th, with a fair wind, they shaped their course
for the western side of BaflSn's Bay, and met the pack in
streams and very loose, which they cleared entirely by

348

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY,

the following day — getting into the north waters, whore
they fell in with Captain Penny's two vessels, whicli
having been unsuccessful in their efforts to enter Jones'
Sound, were now taking the same course up Lancaster
Sound. On the 19th, in a violent gale, the Advance
parted company with the Rescue. On the morning of
the 21st of August, the fog cleared, and Lieutenant De
Haven found he was off Cape Crawford, on the south
ern shore of the Sound. Here he fell in with the Felix
schooner, under Captain Sir John Koss, from whom he
learned that Commodore Austin was at Pond's Bay with
two of his vessels, seeking for information, while the
other two had been dispatched to examine the north
shore of the Sound. Lieutenant De Haven proposed
proceeding on from Port Leopold to Wellington Chan-
nel, the appointed place of rendezvous with his consort.

Captain Forsyth's Remarkable Voyage in the
"Prince Albert."

In April, 1850, a branch expedition to aid those ves-
sels sent out by the government was determined on by
Lady Franklin, who contributed largely toward its out-
lit ; a considerable sum being also raised by public
subscription. The expenses of this expedition were
nearly 4000/., of which 2500/. were contributed by Lady
Franklin herself. The object of this expedition was
the providing for the search of a portion of the Arctic
Sea, which it was distinctly understood could not bt
executed by the vessels under Captain Austin ; but the
importance of which had been set forth, by arctic and
other authorities, in documents printed in the Parlia-
mentary Papers.

The unprovided portion alluded to, includes Regent
Inlet, and the passages connecting it with the western
sea, James Ross's Strait, and other localities, S. W. of
Cape Walker, to which quarter Sir John Franklin was
required by his instructions to proceed in the first in-
stance. This search is assumed to be necessary on the
following grounds : —

VOYAGE OF TIIE PRINCE ALBERT.

349

^liere

7hich

ones'

jaster

eance

ngof

ntDe

south

Felix
om he
y with
le the

north
oposed

Chan-
onsort.

THE

public

1. The probability of Sir John Franklin having
Abandoned his vessels to the S. W. of Cape Walker.

2. The fact that, in his charts, an open passage is
laid down from the west into the south part of Regent
Inlet.

3. Sir John Franklin would be more likely to take
this conrne through a country known to possess the re-
sources of animal life, with the wreck of the Victory
in Felix Harbor for fuel, and the stores of Fury Beach
farther north in view, than to fall ujjon an utterly barren
region of the north coast of America.

4. He would be more likely to expect succor to be
sent to him by way of Lancaster Sound and Barrow's
Strait, into which Regent Inlet opens, than in any
other direction.

In corroboration of the necessity of this part of tho
search, I would refer generally to the Parliamentary
papers of 1848-9 and 50. As an individual opinion, i
may quote the words of Captain Beechey, p. 31 of the
first series. " If, in this condition," (that of being
hopelessly blocked up to the S. "W. of Cape Walker,)
" which I trust may not be the case. Sir Jolm Franklin
should resolve upon taking to his boats, he would prefer
attempting a boat navigation through Sir James Ross's
Strait, and up Regent Inlet, to a long land journey
across the continent to the Hudson Bay Settlements,
to which the greater part of his crew would be wholly
unequal." And again, in his letter to the Secretary
of the Admiralty, 7th of February, 1850, Captain
Beechey writes, " * * * * the bottom of Regent Inlet,
about the Pelly Islands, should not be left unexamined,
[n the memorandum submitted to their Lordships, 17th
of January, 1849, this quarter was considered of im-
portance, and I am still of opinion that had Sir John
Franklin abandoned his vessels near the coast of
America, and much short of the Mackenzie River, he
would have preferred the probability of retaining the
use of his boats until he fo nd relief in Barrow's Strait,
to risking an overland journey via the before-men-
tioned river ; and it must be remembered that at the

;:i.

350

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

time he sailed, Sir George Back's discovery had ren-
dered it very probable that Boothia was an island.

The memorandum alluded to by Captain Boechey
as having been submitted to the Lords of the Admi-
ralty on the 17th of January, 1849, was, the expression
of the unanimous opinion of the arctic officers assem-
bled by command of the Admiralty to deliberate upon
the best means to bo taken for the relief of the missing
expedition ; and in this report, clause 14 ^s expressly
devoted to the recommendation of the search of Regent
Inlet.

The necessity for the proposed search may bo thus
further developed. Sir John Franklin may have aban-
doned his ships, when his provisions were nearly ex-
hausted somewhere about the latitude of '73° N., long.
105° W". ; in short, at any point S. W. of Cape Walker,
not further "W". than long. 110°. And in such case,
rather than return north, (which might be indeed im-
practicable) or moving south upon the American Con-
tinent, of which (upon the coast,) the utter barrenness
was already well known to him, he might prefer a
southeastern course, with a view of passing in his boats,
either through James Ross's, or through Simpson's
Straits, into the Gulf of Boothia, and so up into Regent
Inlet to the house and stores left at Fury Beach, the
only depot of provisions known to him. The advantages
of such a course might appear to him very great.

1. Two open passages being laid down in his charts
into Regent Inlet, by James Ross's Strait, and by Simp-
son's Strait, a means of boat transport for his party
would be afforded, of which alone perhaps their ex-
hausted strength and resources might admit; such a
course would obviously recommend itself to a com-
mander who had experienced the frightful difficulties
of a land journey in those regions.

2. The proposed course would lead through a part,
the Isthmus of Boothia, in which animal lite is known
at some seasons to abound.

3. The Esquimaux who have been found on the
Isthmus of Boothia are extremely well disposed and
friendly.

VOYAGE OF TIJE I'KIMCE ALBERT.

35J

4. It is the direct route toward the habitual yearly
resort of the whalers on the west coast of Baffin's Bay
and Davis' Strait ; indeed those ships occasionally de-
scend Regent Inlet to a considerable distance south.

5. There are two persons attached to the expedition
who are well acquainted with this region and its re-
sources — viz., Mr. Blanky, ice master, and Mr. Mac-
Donald, assistant surgeon, of the Terror. The former
was with Sir John Soss in the Victory. The latter
has made several voyages in whaling vessels and is
acquainted with the parts lying between Kegent Inlet
and Davis' Strait. Where so few among the crews of
the missing ships have had any local experience, the
concurrent knowledge of two persons would have
considerable weight.

6. Opinions are very greatly divided as to the part
in which Sir John Franklin's party may have been ar-
rested, and as to the course they may have taken in
consequence. It would be therefore manifestly unfair,
and most dangerous, to reason out and magnify any one
hypothesis at the expense of the others. The plan here
alluded to sought to provide for the probability of the
Expedition having been stopped shortly after passing to
the southwest of Cape Walker. The very open season
of 1845 was followed by years of unusual severity until
1849. It is therefore very possible that retreat as well
as onward progress has been impossible — that safety
alone has become their last object. The hope of rescu-
ing them in their last extremity depends, then, (as far
as human means can insure it,) on the multiplying of
simultaneous efforts in every direction. Captain Aus-
tin's vessels will, if moving in pairs, take two most im-
portant sections only, of the general search, and will
find they have enough to do to reach their several points
of operation this season.

The necessity for this search was greatly enhanced
')y the intelligence received about this time in England
of the arrival of Mr. Eae and Commander PuUen at
the Mackenzie River, thus establishing the facf., that
Sir John Franklin's party had not reached any" part of

352

PROORESfl OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

the coast between Behring's Strait and the Coppermine
River, while the check wb:ch Mr. Kae received in
his course to the north of tne Coppermine, tended to
give increased importance to the (quarter eastward of
that position.

Commander Charles Codrington Forsyth, K. N., an
enterprising yonng officer, who had not long previously
been promoted in consequence of his arduous services
in surveying on the Australian, African, and American
shores, and who had rendered good service to the gov-
ernment by landing supplies on the east coast of Africa,
under circumstances of great difficulty during the Kalir
war, had volunteered unsuccessfully for all the govern-
ment expeditions, but was permitted by the Admiralty
to command this private branch expedition, in which
he embarked without fee or reward — on the noble and
honorable mission of endeavoring to relieve his long-
imprisoned brother officers.

The Prince Albert, a small clipper vessel of about
ninety tons, originally built by Messrs. White, of Cowes,
in October, 1848, for the fruit trade, was accordingly
hastily fitted out and dispatched from Aberdeen, and
Captain Forsyth was instructed to winter, if possible,
in J3rentford Bay, in Eegent Inlet, and thence send
parties to explore the opposite side of the isthmus and
the various shores and bays of the Inlet She had a
crew of twenty, W. Kay and W. Wilson acting as first
and second mates, and Mr. W. P. Snow as clerk. She
sailed on the 5th of June, and was consequently the
last vessel that left, and yet is the first that has reached
home, having also brought some account of the track
of Franklin's expedition.

The Prince Albert arrived off Cape Farewell, July
2d, entered the ice on the 19th, and on the 21st, came
up with Sir John Ross in a labyrinth of ice. She pro-
ceeded up Lancaster Sound and Barrow's Strait, fell in
with most of the English ships in those seas, and also
with the American brig Advance, sailing some time in
company, and attempted to enter Regent Inlet and Wel-
lington Channel. Sne left the Advance aground near

VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT.

35»

1, July

;, came
.e pro-

Cape Riley, at the entrance of Wellington Channel,
though not in a situation supposed to l)o dangerous.
Commander Forsyth, in his ofticial letter to the Lorda
of the Admiralty, says that " traces of the missing ex-
pedition under Sir John Franklin had been found at
Cape Riley and Beechey Island, at the entrance to the
"Wellington Channel. We observed live places where
tents had been pitched, or stones placed as if they hud
been used for keeping the lower part of the tents down,
also great quantities of beef, pork, and birds' bones, a
piece of rope, with the Woolwich naval mark on it,
^^yellow,) part of which I have inclosed." Having en-
tered Wellington Channel, and examined the coast as
far as Point Innis, and finding no furtlier traces of the
missing vessels, and it being impracticable to jienetrate
further to the west. Commander Forsyth returned to Ro
gent Inlet, but meeting no opening there, the season
being near at hand when the ice begins to form, and
his vessel not of a strength which would enable it to
resist a heavy pressure of ice, he determined on return-
ing without further delay to England, after examining
a number of points along the coast.

On the 25th of August, a signal staif being observed
on shore at Cape Riley, Mr. Snow was sent by Captain
Forsyth to examine it. He found that the Assistance,
Captain Ommaney, had been there two days before, and
had left the following notice : —

" This is to certify that Captain Ommaney, with the
officers of her Majesty's ships Assistance and Intrepid,
landed upon Cape Riley on the 23d August, 1850, wliero
he found traces of encampments, and collected the re-
mains of materials, which evidently proved that some
party belonging to her Majesty's ships had been de-
tained on that spot. Beechey Island was also examined,
where traces were found of the same party. This is
also to give notice that a supply of provisions and fuel
is at Cape Riley. Since 15th August, they have ex-
amined the north shore of Lancaster Sound and Bar-
row's Strait, without meeting with any other traces.

Captain Ommaney proceeds to Cape Hotham and Cape
16

S54

TROORESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

Walker in search of further traces of Sir John Frank-
lin's expedition. Dated on board her Majesty's Kliip
Assistance, oft' Cape Riley, the 23d August, 1850."

The seamen who were dispatched from the Assistance
to examine these remains, found a rope with the naval
mark, evidently belonging to a vessel which had been
fitted out at Woolwich, and which, in all probability,
was either the Erebus or tiio Terror. Other indications
were also noticed, which showed that some vessel had
visited the place besides the Assistance. Captain For-
syth left a notice that the Prince Albert had called off
Cape Riley on the 25tli of August, and then bore up
to the eastward. Captain Forsyth landed at Posses-
sion Pay on the 29th August, but nothing was found
there to repay the search instituted.

The Prince Albert arrived at Aberdeen, on the 22d
of October, after a quick passage, having been absent
something, less than fou" months.

Captain Forsvth proceeded to London by the mail
train, taking with him, for the information of the Ad-
miralty, the several bonss, (beef, pork, &c.,) which were
found on Cape Riley, together with a piece of rope < >t'
about a foot and a half in length, and a small piece of
canvas with the Queen's mark upon it, both in an ex
eel lent state of preservation ; placing it almost bey on d
a doubt that they were left on that spot by the expedi-
««on under Sir John Franklin.

o'aptain Forsyth, during his short trip, explored re-
gions which Sir James Ross was unable to reach the
previous year. He was at "Wellington Cliannel, and
penetrated to Fury Beach, where Sir E. Parry aban-
doned his vessel, (the Fury,) in 1825, after she bad
taken the ground. It is situated in about 72° 40' N.
latitude, and 91° 50' W. longitude. This is a point
vhich has not been '•eached by any vessel for twenty
years past. It was found, however, utterly impossible
to land-there on account of the packed ice. The whole
of the coasts of Baffin's Bav have also now been visited
without result.
' The intelligence which Capt. Forsyth brought homo

VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT.

355

iiiico
laviil
been
)iUty,
itiuus

I hud

II Yov-
ed otV

re ui>

*088es-
found

has, as a matter of course, excited the most intense in-
terest in naval circles, and among the friends and rohi-
tives of the parties absent in the Erebus and Terror,
the more so masmuch as it has been ascertained at
Chatham Dockyard that the rope which Captain For-
syth found on the spot when he visited it, and copied
Capt. Ommaney's notice, is proved by its yellow imirk
to have been manufactured there, and certainly hIhcu
1824 ; and moreover, from inquiries instituted, very
strong evidence has been elicited in favor of the belief
that the rope was made between the years 1841 and
1849. That the trail of the Franklin expedition, or
some detachment of it, has been struck, there cannot
be the slightest doubt in the mind of any one who has
read the dispatches and reports. That Captain Om-
maney felt satisfied on this score is evident from the
terms of the piper he left behind him. The squadron,
it appears, were in full cry upon the scent on the 25th
of August, and we must wait patiently, but anxiously,
for the next accounts of the results of their indefatiga-
ble researches, which can hardly reach us from Bar-
row's Strait before the autumn of 1851.

There can be no doubt now in the mind of any one,
that the Arctic Searching Expeditions have at length
couie upon traces, if not the track of Sir John Frank-
lin. The accounts brought by Captain Forsyth must
have at least satisfied the most desponding that there
is still hope left — that the ships have not foundered in
Baffin's 6ay, at the outset of the voyage, nor been
crushed in the ice, and burned by a savage tribe of
Esquimaux, who had murdered the crew. That tho
former might have happened, all must admit ; but to
tlie latter, few, we imagine, will give their assent, not-
withstanding the numerous cruel rumors promulgated
from time to time. It would be idle to dwell upon so
impossible an event. Where could this savage tribe
spring from ? Mr. Saunders describes the natives of
Wolstenholrae Sound as the most miserable and help-
less of mortals. They bad no articles obtained from
Europeans ; and he was of opinion that ther» were no

ill

'IP

9Bh

856

I'UOOUKSS OF AKClIC DIriC'OVlOUY.

Bottlcmcr.ts further north ; and if thoro wore, doubtless
they would bo even more impotent than these wretched
beincs. That the sliip nnVht have foundered all must
admit. The President did so with many a gallant soul
on board. The Avenger ran on the Sorelli, and 300
brave fellows, in an instant, met with a watery grave ;
and till the sea sliall give up lier dead, who can count
the tliousands that liebeneath tlie billows of the mightv
ocean ? We have now certgin evidence that Franklin «
ships did not founder — not, at least, in Batiin's Bay ;
ana our own belief, (says a well-informed and compe-
tent writer in the Morning Herald,) is that the pennant
still floats in the northern breeze, amid eternal regions
of snow and ice.

The voyage performed by the Prince Albert has thus
been the means of keeping alive our hopes, and of in-
forming us, up to a certain point, of the progress of
the expeditions, and the situation of the difterent ships,
of which we might have been left in a state of utter
ignorance till the close of this year. Every thing con-
nected with the navigation of the arctic seas is a
chance, coupled, of course, with skill *, and in looking
at this voyage performed by Lady Franklin's little
vessel, it must be obvious to every one that Captain
Forsyth has had the chance of an open season, and the
skill to make use of it.

" Live a thousand years," and we may never see such
another voyage performed. We have only to look at
all that have preceded. Parry, it is true, in one year
ran to Melville Island, and passing a winter, got back
to England the following season — and this is at present
the ne plus ultra of arctic navigation. Sir John Ross,
we know, went out in the Victory to Regent Lilet, and
was frozen in for four years, and all the world gave
him up for lost — but "there's life in the old dog yet,"
as the song has it.

Sir James Ross was frozen in at Leopold Harbor,
and only got out, at^c T>a88ing a winter, to be carried
away in a floe of ice into Baffin's Bay, which no human
skill could, prevent. . ,

VOTAOE OF TUK PRINOH ALBERT.

857

Aess
;luid
nust
soul
300
ttvc ;
;ount

kliirs
Bay ;
)mpe-
nnant
jgions

,8 thus
of in-
ess of
; ships,
f utter
ig coii-
3 is a

ooking
little
Captain
md the

ee such
ook at
le year
ot back
present
Ross,
et, and
d gave

og yet,"

Harbor,
carried
human

Sir George Back was to make a summer's cniise to
Wapjer Inlet, and return to England. The result every
Dne knows or may make themselves acquainted with,
by reading the fearful voyage of the Terror, an ab-
stract of which I have already given. It would be
superlluous to enumerate many other of our series of
polar voyages, but it is ])retty evident tliat Captain
Forsyth's vovagi;, j)crfonned in the summer months
of 1850, will be lianded dflwn to ])osterity as one of the
most remarkable, if not the most remarkable, that has
ever been accomj)lished in the arctic seas — the expe-
dition consisting of one Kolitary small vessel.

The main object of the voyage, it is true, has not
been accomplished, but as all the harbors in Regent
Inlet were frozen up, and it was utterly impossible to
cut through a vast tract of ice, extending for perhaps
four or five miles, to got the ship to a secure anchor-
age, under these circumsiances. Captain Forsyth had
no alternative but to return, and in doing so, he has,
in the o])inion of all the best-informed officers, dis-
played great good sense and judgment rather than re-
main frozen in at the "Wellington Channel, where he
only went to reconnoiter, and where he had no business
whatever, 1 is instructions being confined to Regent
Inlet.

Lady Franklin purposes, if she can raise sufficient
funds, to send out another boat expedition this spring to
Regent Inlet, to prosecute the search in the regions to
which we have before alluded, and on which she places
so much reliance. The party, under the charge of Mr.
Kennedy, will probably winter in Brentford Bay or
some other convenient place, and carry on the search-
ing operations on the opposite shores of Boothia, as
the season permits. But her ladyship's income has
been so largely drawn upon by the various enormous
expenses she has been put to, that it is doubtful
whether she will be able to carry out her views without
assistance from the public.

I sincerely trust that the generosity and chivalry of
the people of England, which has displayed its sympa

M !'
'< ' ,

m 4i

358

PBOORESS OF ABGTIC DISCOVESY.

thies with the distressed soldier and the weather-bound
seamen on so many occasions, and in so many splendid
and richly-endowed institutions, will not allow this
noble-minded lady to exhaust her private resources
in the equipment of expeditions which are deemed so
important and necessary, but that they will come for-
ward and relieve her, recollecting that the expedition
is required in search of two of her Majesty^s ships,
sent out on their arduous service by the government
of the country, and under command ^f her honored,
amiable, and distinguished husband, the good and
brave Sir John FranMin.

I have thus gone through, as fully as my space would
permit, the voyages and journeys of our navigators and
travelers within the Arctic circle, and the record of
their arduous services cannot fail to prove interesting.

There is one land expedition, that of Dr. Sir John
Bichardson, on the Polar shore between the Copper-
mine and Mackenzie Rivers, in 1848, which I have not
touched on because it has already been published in
detail in several quarters, and the gallant Doctor is pre-
paring a very full account of it for immediate publica-
tion. Captain Kellett, also, has it in contemplation to
publish an account of the voyage of the Herald.

The following recapitulation will give the position
of the different vessels engaged in the search, when last
heard of.

The Investlffator having passed Behring's Strait,
reached Kotzebue Sound on the 27th of July, and
when last heard of, was pushing her way along between
the ice toward Melville Island. The Enterprise had
put back to Hong Kong to winter having been unable
to enter the ice.

The Advance, was aground off Cape Riley, August
26th.

The Assistance, in Wellington Channel, August
25th, standing toward Capo Hotham.

The Felix, off Cape Crawford, in Lancaster Sound,
August 22d.

"Hie Intrepid and Lady Franklm, on August 24th

LATEST POSITION OF ALL TUE VESSELS.

359

and 25th, in Wellington Channel, standing toward
Cape Hotiiam.
The Keaolute and Pioneer, in Possession Bay, Aus:.

The Eescue and Sophia, in "Wellington Channel, Au-
gust 25th, apparently beset with ice.

The Plover, wintering in Grantley Harbor, Port
Clarence, 1850.

The North Star and Prince Albert have, as we have
seen, arrived in England, and the Herald is also on
her passage home. I have been favored with the sight
of a private letter of very recent date from an officer
of the Herald, dated Hong Kong, 23d of December,
1850, from which I make the following extracts :

" On our third and last cruise north in search of the
ill-fated expedition under Sir John Franklin, wo sailed
from Oahu on the 24th of May, 1850, arriving in Kot-
zebue Sound on the 14th of July. The Sound was a
perfect wall of ice, with no prospect of our being able
to communicate with the Plover for a week or ten days.
One of our cutters was sent in with letters, getting be-
tween the floes, and hauling over some, at last reached
her, and found them all well, but no news during the
winter of Sir John Franklin. On the 21st of July,
after watering and refitting, we sailed for Cape Lis-
burne to intercept the Enterprise and Investigator,
this being the appointed rendezvous. The Plover also
sailed for Point Barro»<r to look after PuUen's party.
On the 26th, in a dense fog, we made the ice-pact,
much to our surprise, 180 miles south of where we
found it last season, in latitude 70° 13' N. The ice was
fourteen feet high, a solid wall without an opening
through which we might with safety sail. Toward
midnight it blew a gale of wind, and we were compel-
led to naul off. On the 29th, we again made the pack
much higher than before, rising like a hill from the sea
face, in latitude 71° 12' N. On the night of the 30th,
we saw detached icebergs off Wainwnght Inlet, from
thirty to forty feet high. The wind again increasing to
a gale, with thick rainy weather, reduced us to close
veefs, and compelled us to bear up for Cape Lisburne.

i if;

! i^

■iti

S60

PBOGBESS OF ABOnO DISOOVEBY.

" Arriving off that place on the last day of July, we
were fortunate enough to fall in with the Investigator in
a dense fog. Clearing for ah instant, we were along-
side each other! and we had the news of the last
twelve months. She had come from Oahu in the short
rpace of time, twenty-six days. The Enterprise sailed
five days before her. They had not seen each other
since rounding the Horn. The Investigator remained
but a few minutes in our company, and then departed
with three hearty cheers from us for the ice pack, deter-
mined to get to Melville Island. She had our good
wishes, but at the same time our doubts as to her suc-
cess ; we had the experience of three voyages. She
was as yet green, and all her troubles to go through.

" From this day, 31st of July, to 26th of August, we
were blockading Cape Lisburne, to intercept the En-
terprise and Plover, a most tedious and troublesome
twenty-six days as over we experienced ; we did not
see tLo former, but the Plover we spoke. She had been
to Point Barrow, had heard from the natives that a
party of white men had been murdered and buried near
the Colville Eiver, near the Mackenzie River, and that
whales' jaws and bones now marked the spot. If it
had not been so late in the season we should have sent
a boat expedition there, but we hardly knew what con-
clusion to come to. It may be PuUen's party, — it may
be only ' native report ' to get tobacco and beads. My
opinion was, and is, that the story was a most improb-
able one, as the natives refused to accept a cask of to-
bacco and two muskets to go there as pilots. But should
any thing have unfortunately happened to Pullen's
party, and no movement made by us to rescue them if
still alive, it would be a damper on the Herald, and the
affair never forgwen or forgotten by the public. .

" Finding it useless to wait any longer for the Enter-
prise, we sailed for Port Clarence, and put the Plover
into winter quarters as a depot for the two ships north."

THE SEABOHING EXPEDITIONS. 361

ir,we

;orm
long-
) last
short
jailed
other
ained
)arted
deter-
good
jr Buc-
She
igh.
ist, we
tie En-
lesome
id not
,d been
I that a
3d near
ad that
If it
ve sent
lat con-
it may
s. My
mprob-
of to-
; should
ullen's
;hem if
and the

Enter-
Plover
north."

TO THE EXPEDITIONS IN SEARCH OF SIR
JOHN FRANKLIN.

[From Fisher's Drawing- Boom Sciritp-Book.3 •

AoKOss tho Arctic foam,

To bring the wanderer home,
Speed on, ye fleets, whom Mercy's hand equips 1

And may the favoring gales

Make music in your saik,
And waft you safely, oh, ye gallant ships I

May sunshine light your path.

And tempests stiU their wrath.
And fortune guide you on your darkest track ;

Speed on with high endeavor,

And hopeful courage ever.
And bring to Britisn hearts their long lost hero baclc

Farewell — a short farewell I —

The hopes of nations swell.
And prayers of myi-iads rise to Heaven fbr you,

That perils of the cold,

And hardships manifold.
May bear their gentlest on each hardy crew I

A thankful world looks on,

And gives its benison ;
America and Europe join their hands ;

And o'er tiie Northern Sea,

Gaze forward hopefully.
And sound our Franklin'^ tlh'^q through, all the p.nrious landai

Return I oh, socn ivt re. 1

And let n ir be ri-i' xsa bura
On every roountaii; -top an. ■ ii/ zy &;ai f ;

And let !he p(.M> pie's vo'ca,

And c'apj.iig Lands rejoiod
For bis and your ret<r ?Jnfr from afar,

No conqutror anti'-iie,

Of Romun famo ^ /'Greek,
Such proud ovation gathered, laurel-crowned,

As we on him would pour,

From every kw or shore.
And hive of busy mer. oj all our English ground.

But if this may not be.

And o'er the frozen sea
They sleep in death, the victims of thoir Eeal ;

Be yours the task to sho'y

The greatness of our woe.
And end the doubting hopes that millions feel.

Then shall tho tears be shed

For them, the glorious dead ;
16*

i, ii'^';

362

PBOGKESS OP ARCTIC DI8C0VEKV.

And then shall History, on a spoUeas page.
Inscribe eadi honest name
With tribtttary feme —

,The men of noble sool — true heroes of our

Speed on across the wave I —

For you the good and brave,
The good and brave of erorv land implore

All blessings and success,

Sunshine and happiness,
And safety on the far and frozen shore.

From stonn and hidden rock.

And from the iee-beig's shock,
May Heaven protect you, wheresoe'er ye strsgr \

On Mercy's errand sped

On you be mercy shed,
<3tod gtwie you, mariners, and shield you on yonr waf

wl;

! B

■k''

' '^m

■'-M"*

' 'Mi

^'g

'■■'i -

: 1

H
in
an
rei
pr(
im
ge:

bri
tor
tra
clii
vo^
the
reg
wa
wh
tio]
not

nat
hac

COB

reti

Isl£

185
Th(

THE AMEBIOAN ARCTIC EXPEDITION.

The safe return of the expedition sent out by Mr.
Henry Grinnell, an opulent merchant of New York city
in search of Sir John Franklin and his companions, is
an event of much interest ; and the voyage, though not
resulting in the discovery of the long-absent mariners,
presents many considerations satisfactory to the parties
immediately concerned, and the American public in
general.

Mr. Grinnell's expedition consisted of only two small
brigs, the Advance of 140 tons ; the Ecscue of only 90
tons. The former had been engaged in the Havana
trade ; the latter was a new vessel built for the mer-
chant service. Both were strengthened for the arctic
voyaffe at a heavy cost. They were then placed under
the directions of our Navy Board, and subject to naval
regulations, as if in permanent service. The command
was given to Lieut. E. De Haven, a young naval officer
who accompanied the United States exploring expedi-
tion. The result has proved that a better choice could
not have been made. His officere consisted of Mr.
Murdoch, sailing-master ; Dr. E. K. Kane, surgeon and
naturalist ; and Mr. Lovell, midshipman. The Advance
had a crew of twelve men when she sailed ; tT7o of them
complaining of sickness, and expressing a desire to
return home, were left at the Danisn settlement at Disco
Island, on the coast of Greenland.

The Expedition left New York on the 23d of May,
1850, and was absent a little more than sixteen months.
They passed the eastern extremity of Newfoundland

fi:ii-i

36<5

PKOtiKFrtd or AJtCriC DIflOuVKJCV.

ten "days after leaving Sp li^ly Hook, and then HaiK'<l
east-northeast, directly for (.\ipe Comfort, on the coast
of Greenland. Tiio weather wa** generally line, and
only a single accident occurred on the voyage to that
country of frost and snow. Off the coast of Lahradoi
they met an iceberg making its way toward the tropics.
The night was very dark, and as the huge voyager had
no " liglit out," the Advance could not be censured for
running foul. Slie was punished, however, by the loss
of her jib-boom, as she ran against the iceberg at the
rate of seven or eiojht knots an hour.

The voyagers did not land at Cape Comfort, but
turning northward, sailed along the southwest coast of
Greenland, sometimes in the midst of broad acres of
broken ice, (particularly in Davis' Straits,) as far as
Whale Island. On the way the anniversary of our
national independence occurred ; it was observed by
the seamen by " splicing the main-brace " — in other
words, they were allowed an extra glass of grog on that
day.

From Whale Island, a boat, with two officers and
four seamen, was sent to Disco Island, a distance of
about 26 miles, to a Danish settlement there, to procure
skin clothing and other articles necessary for use during
the rigors of a polar winter. The officers were enter-
tained at the government house ; the seamen were com-
fortably lodged with the Esquimaux, sleeping in fur
bags at night. They returned to the ship the following
day, and the expedition proceeded on its voyage. When
passing the little Danish settlement of Upernavick, they
were boarded by natives for the first time. They were
out in go^Ci-nment whale-boats, hunting for ducks and
seals. These hardy children of the Arctic Circle were
not shy, for through the Danes, the Englislj^ whaler8,and
government expeditions, they had become acquainted
with men of other latitudes.

When the expedition reached Melville Bay, which,
on account of its fearful character, is also called the
DeviVs JSTip^ the voyagers began to witness more of
the grandeur and perils of arctic scenes. Icebergs of

*• .

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THE AMERICAN ARCTIC EXPEDITION.

307

aU dimensions came bearing down from the Polar seas,
like vast squadrons, and the roar of their rending came
over the waters like the booming of heavy broadsides
of contending navies. They also encountered immense
floes, with only narrow channels between, and at times
their situation was exceedingly perilous. On one occa-
sion, alter heaving through helds of ice for five consecu-
tive weeks, two immense floes, between which thev
were making their way, gradually approached each
other, and for several hours they expected their tiny
vessels — tiny when compared with the mighty objects
around them — would be crushed. An immense calf
of ice, six or eight feet thick, slid under the Kescue,
lifting her almost " high and dry," and careening her
partiallv upon her beam ends. Bv means of ice-an-
chors, (large iron hooks,) they kept her from capsizing.
In this position they remained about sixty hours, when,
with saws and axes, they succeeded in relieving her.
The ice now opened a little, and they finally warped
through into clear water. While they were thus con-
fined, polar bears came around them in abundance,
greedy for prey, and the seamen indulged a little in the
perilous sports of the chase.

The open sea continued but a short time, when they
again became entangled among bergs, floes, and hum-
mocks, and encountered the most fearful perils. Some-
times they anchored their vessels to icebergs, and some-
times to noes or masses of hummock. On one of these
occasions, while the cook, an active Frenchman, was
upon a berg, making a place for an anchor, the mass of
ice split beneath him, and he was dropped through the
yawning fissure into the water, a distance of almost
thirty reet. Fortunately the masses, as is often the
case, did not close up again, but floated apart, and the
poor cook was hauled on board more dead than alive,
from excessive fright. It was in this fearful region that
they first encountered pack-ice, and there they were
locked in from the 7th to the 23d of July. During that
time they were joined by the yacht Prince Albert, com-
manded by Captain Forsyth, of the Royal Navy, and

368

PBOOBEtlB OF ARCTIC DI8COVEUT.

together the three vessels were anchored, for a while,
to an immense field of ice, in si^ht of the Devil's
Thumb. That high, rocky peak, situated in latitude
74° 22', was about thirty miles distant, and with the
dark hUls adjacent, presented a strange aspect where
all was white and glittering. The padc and the hills
are masses of rock, with occasionally a lichen or a moss
growing upon their otherwise naked surfaces. In the
midst of the vast ice-field loomed up many loft^ bergs,
all of them in motion — slow and majestic motion.

From the Devil's Thumb the American vessels passed
onward through the pack toward Sabine's Islands, while
the Prince Albert essayed to make a more westerly
course. They reached Cape York at the beginning of
August. Far across the ice, landward , they discovered,
through their glasses, several men, apparently making
signals ; and for a while they rejoiced in the belief that
they saw a portion of Sir John Franklin's companions.
Four men, (among whom was our sailor-artist^) were
dispatched with a whale-boat to reconnoiter. They soon
discovered the men to be Esquimaux, who, by signs,
professed great friendship, ana endeavored to get the
voyagers to accompany them to their homes beyond
the hills. They declined ; and as soon as they returned
to the vessel, the expedition again pushed forward, and
made its way to Cape Dudley Digges, which they
reached on the 7th of August.

At Cape Dudley Digges they were charmed by the
sight of tne Crimson Cli&, spoken of by Captain rarry
and other arctic navigators. These are lony clifis of
dark brown stone, covered with snow of a rich crimson
color. It was a magnificent sight in that cold region,
to see such an apparently warm object standing out in
bold relief against the dark blue back-ground of a polar
sky. This was the most northern point to which the
expedition penetrated. The whole coast which they
had passed from Disco to this cape is high, rugged, and
barren, only some of the low points, stretching into the
sea, bearing a species of dwarf fir. Northeast from
the cape rise the Arctic Highlands, to an unknown alti-

THK AMERICAN AKCllC EXPEDiriO:^.

369

tude ; and stretching away northward is the unexplored
Smith's Sound, filled with impenetrable ice.

From Cape Dudley Digges, the Advance and Kes-
cue, beating against wind and tide in the midst of the
ice-fields, made Wolstenholme Sound, and then chang-
ing their course to the southwest, emerged from tlie
fields into the open waters of Lancaster Sound. Here,
on the 18tli of August, they encountered a tremendous
gale, which lasted about twenty-four hours. The two
vessels parted company during the storm, and remained
separate several clays. Across Lancaster Sound, the
Advance made her way to Barrow's Straits, and on the
22d discovered the Prince Albert on the soiithem shore
of the straits, near Leopold Island, a mass of lofty,
precipitous rocks, dark and barren, and hooded and
draped with snow. The weather was fine, and soon
the officers and crews of the two vessels met in friendly
greetinff. Those of the Prince Albert were much as-
tonished, for they (being towed by a steamer,) left the
Americans in Melville Bay on the 6th, pressing north-
ward through the pack, and could not conceive how
they BO soon and safely penetrated it. Captain For-
syth had attempted to reach a particular point, where
he intended to remain through the winter, but finding
the passage thereto completely blocked up with ice, he
had resolved, on the very day when the Americans ap-
peared, to " 'bout ship," and return home. This fact,
and the disappointment felt by Mr. Snow, are mentioned
in our former article.

The two vessels remained together a day or two,
when they parted company, the Prince Albert to re-
turn home, and the Advance to make further explora-
tions. It was oS Leopold Island, on the 22d of Au-
gust, that the " mad Yankee " took the lead through the
vast masses of floating ice, so vividly described by Mr.
Snow, and so graphically portrayed by the sailor-artist.
" The way was betbre them," says Mr. Snow, who stood
upon the deck of the Advance ; " the stream of ice had
to bo either gone through boldly, or a long detour made*
and, despite the heaviness of the -stream, they pttahed

rfl

370

PROORK88 OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

the vessel through in her prop&r course. Two or three
ehocks, as she came in contact with some large pieces,
were unheeded ; and the moment the last oIock was
past the bow, the officer sung out, ^ So : steady as she
^oes on her course ;' and came aft as if nothing more
tnan ordinary sailing had been going on. I observed
our own little bark nobly following in the American's
wake ; and as I alterward learned, she got through it
pretty well, though not without much doubt of the pro-
priety of keeping on in such procedure after the * mad
I ankee,' as he was called by our mate."

From Leopold Island the Advance proceeded to the
northwest, and on the 25th reached Cape Riley, an
other amorphous mass, not so regular and precipitate
as Leopold Island, but more lofty. Here a strong tide^
setting in to the shore, drifted the Advance toward the
beach, where she stranded. Around her were small
bergs and lar^e masses of floating ice, all under the
influence of tne strong current It was about two
o'clock in the afternoon when she struck. By diligent
labor in removing every thing from her deck to a small
floe, she was so lightened, that at four o'clock the next
momiuff she floated, and soon every thing was properly
replaced.

I^ear Gape Biley the Americans fell in with a por-
tion of an English Expedition, and there also the
Itescue, left benind in the gale in Lancaster Sound,
overtook the Advance. There was Captain Penny
with the Sophia and Lady Franklin ; the veteran Sir
John Koss, with the Felix, and Commodore Austin,
with the Resolute steamer. Together the navigators
of both nations explored the coast at and near Cape
Biley, and on the 27th they saw in a cove on the shore
of Beechey Island, or Beechey Cape, on the east side of
the entrance to Wellington Channel, unmistakable evi
dence that Sir John Franklin and his companions were
there in April, 1846. There they found many articles
known to belong to the British Kavy, and some that
were the property of the Erebus and Terror, the ships
under the command of Sir John. There lay, bleached

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Tins AHERICAN ARCriC EXPEDITION.

371

to the whiteness of the surrounding snow, a piece of
canvas, with the name of the Terror, marked upon it
with iuaestnictible charcoal. It was very faint, yet
perfectly legible. Near it was a
^uide board, lying flat upon its
lace, having been prostrated by
the wind. It had evidently been
used to direct exploring parties to
the vessels, or rather, to the en-
campment on shore. The board
was pine, thirteen inches in length
and six and a half in breadth, and
nailed to a boarding pike eight
feet in length. It is supposed
that the sudden opening of the
ice, caused Sir John to depart
hastily, and in so doing, this pike
and its board were left behind.
They also found a large number
of tin canisters,
such as are used
for packing meats
for a sea voyage; an
anvil block : rem-
nants of clothing,
which evinced, by
numerous patches
and their thread-
bare character,that
they had been worn
as long as the own-
ers could keep them anvil block.
on ; the remains of an India Kubber glove, lined with
wool ; some old sacks ; a cask, or tub, partly filled with
charcoal, and an unfinished rope-mat, which, like other
fibrous fabrics, was bleached white.

But the most interesting, and at the same time most
melancholy traces of the navigators, were three graves,
in a little sheltered cove, each with a board at the head,
bearing the name of the sleeper below. These inecrip-

GUIDE BOABD.

.. >

372

FBOGBE86 OF AlttTlU DlaCOVKUV.

tions testify positively when Sir John and his compan-
ions were there. The board at the head of the grave
on the left has the following inscription :

" Sacred to the memory of John Tobbinoton, who
departed this life, January Ist, a d., 1846, on board
her Majesty's ship Terror, aged 20 years."

On the center one — "Sacred to the memory of
John Habtnell, A. B., of her Majesty's ship Erebus ;
died, January 4th, 1846, aged 25 years. * Thus saith
the Lord of Hosts, Consider your ways ;' Ilaggai, chap,
i. 5, 7."

On the right — " Sacred to the memory of W. Bbaike,
R. M., of her Majesty's ship Erebus, who died April 3d,
1846, aged 32 years. ' Choose you this day whom you
will serve :' Joshua, chap, xxiv., part of the 15th verse."

THBEE 0BAVE8 AT BEECHET.

1? How much later than April 3d (the date upon the
last-named head-board,) Sir John remained at Beechey,
can not be determined. They saw evidences of his
having gone northward, for sledge tracks in that di-
rection were visible. It is the opinion of Dr. Kane
that, on the breaking up of the ice, in the spring, Sir
John passed northward with his ships through Welling-
ton Channel, into the great Polar basin, and that ho
did not return. This, too, is the opinion of Captain
Penny, and he zealously urges the British government
to send a powerful screw steamer to pass through that

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TUB AMERICAN ARCTIO EXPEDITION.

873

channel, and explore the theoretically more hospitable
coasts beyond. This will doubtless be undurtakeii
another season, it being the opinions of Captains Parry,
Beechoy, Sir John Koss, and others, expressed at a con-
ference with the board of Admiralty, in September, tLat
the season was too far advanced to attempt it the pres-
ent year. Dr. Kane, in a letter to Mr. Gfrinnell, since
the return of the expedition, thus expresses his opin-
ion concerninir the safety of Sir John and his com-

panions. After saying, ^'I should think that he is
now to be sought for north and west of Cornwallis
Island," he adds, ^^ as to the chance of the destruction
of his party by the casualties of ice, the return of our
own party after something more than the usual share
of them, is the only fact that I can add to what wo
knew when we set out. The hazards from cold and
privation of food may be almost looked upon as sub-
ordinate. The snow-hut, the fire and light from the
moss-lamp fed with blubber, the seal, the narwhal, the
white whale, and occasionally abundant stores of mi-
gratory birds, would sustain vigorous life. The scurvy,
the worst visitation of explorors deprived of perma-
nent quarters, is more rare iu the depths of a polar
winter, than in the milder weather of the moist sum-
mer; and our two little vessels encountered both
seasons without losing a man."

Leaving Beechey Cape, our expedition forced its way
through the ice to Barrow's Inlet, where they narrowly
escaped being frozen in for the winter. They endeav-
ored to enter the Inlet, for the purpose of making it
their winter quarters, but were prevented by the mass
of pack-ice at its entrance. It was on the 4th of Sep-
tember, 1850, when they arrived there, and after re-
maining seven or eight days, they abandoned the
attempt to enter. On- the right and left of the above

ficture, are seen the dark rocks at the entrance of the
niet, and in the center of the frozen waters and the
range of hills beyond. There was much smooth ice
within the Inlet, and while the vessels lay anchored
to the ^' field," officers and crew exercised and amused

374

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

themselves by skating. On the left of the Inlet, (in
dicated by the dark conical object,) they discovered a
Cairn, (a heap of stones with a cavity,) eight or ten
feet in height, which was erected b^ Captain Ommaney
of the English Expedition then in the polar waters.
Within it he had placed two letters, for " Whom it
might concern." Uomrarnder De Haven also depos-
ited a letter there. It is believed to be the only post-
office in the world, free for the use of all nations. The
rocks, here, presented vast fissnres made by the frost;
and at the foot of the cliff on the right that powerful
agent had cast down vast heaps of debris.

From Barlow's Inlet, our expedition moved slowly
westward, battling with the ice every rood of the way,
until they reachea Griffin's Island, at about 96° west
longitude from Greenwich. This was attained on the
11th, and was the extreme westing made by the expe-
dition. All beyond seemed impenetrable ice; and,
despairing of making any further discoveries before the
winter should set in, they resolved to return home.
Turning eastward, they hoped to reach Davis' Strait
by the southern route, before the cold and darkness
came on ; but they were doomed to disappointment.
Near the entrance to Wellington Channel they became
completely locked in by huramock-ice, and soon found
themselves drifting with an irresistible tide up that
channel toward the pole.

Now began the most<perilou8 adventures of the navi-

fators. The summer day was drawing to a close ; the
iumal visits of the pale sun were rapidly shortening,
and soon the long polar night, with all its darkness and
horrors, would fj3l upon them. Slowly they drifted in
those vast fields of ice, whither, or to what result, they
knew not. Locked in the moving yet compact mass ;
liable at every moment to be crusned ; far away from
land ; the mercury sinking daily lower and lower from
the zero figure, toward the point where that metal
freezes, they felt small hope of ever reaching home again.
Yet they prepared for winter comforts and winter sports,
as cheerfully as if lying safe in Barlow's Inlet. As the

THS AMEBIOAIC ASOTIO BXFIDITIOir*

875

winter advanced, the crews of both the vessels went on
Doard the larger one. They unshipped the rudders of
each, to prevent their being injured by the ice, covered
the deck of the Advance with felt, prepared their stores,
and made arrangements for enduring the long winter,
now upon them. Physical and mental activity being
necessary for the preservation of health, they daily ex-
ercised in the open air for several hours. They built
ice huts, hunted the huge white bears and the little polar
foxes, and when the darkness of the winter night had
spread over them they arranged in-door amusements
and employments.

Before the end of October, the sun made its appear-
ance for the last time, and the awful polar night
closed in. Early in November they wholly abandoned
the Rescue, and both crews made the Advance their
permanent winter home. The cold soon became in-
tense ; the mercury congealed, and the spirit thermome-
ter indicated 46° below zero 1 Its averuge range was
30° to 35°. They had drifted helplessly up Wellington
Channel, almost to the latitude from whence Captain
Penny saw an open sea, and which all believe to bo
ihe great polar basin, where there is a more genial
clime than that which intervenes between the Arctic
Circle and the 75th degree. Here, when almost in
fiight of the open ocean, that mighty polar tide, with
its vast masses of ice, suddenly ebbed, and our little
vessels were carried back as resistlessly as before,
through Barrow's Straits into Lancaster Sound I All
this while the immense fields of hummock-ice were
moving, and the vessels were in hourlv danger of being
crushed and destroyed. At length, while drifting
through Barrow's Straits, the congealed mass, as it
crushed together by the opposite shores, became more
compact, and the Advance was elevated almo' ^ seven
feet oy the stem, and keeled two feet eight inc . star-
board. In this position she remained, with very little
alteration for five consecutive months ; for, soon after
entering Baffin's Bay in the midst of the winter, the

ice became frozen in one immense tract, ooveiw; uul-

17 --0

870

WKiniMMI Of AlCriO OBCOVfiST.

lions eft acres. Thus frozen in, sometimes more tbtn a
hundred miles from land, they drifted slowly along the
Bonthwest coast of Battin's Bay, a distance of more than
a Uiousand miles from Wellington Channel. For eleven
weeks that dreary night continued, and daring that
time the disc of the sun was never seen above the hori-
zon. Yet nature was not wholly forbidding in aspect.
Sometimes the Aurora Borealis would fl^h up still
Airther northward ; and sometimes Aurora Parhelia —
mock suns and mock moons — would appear in varied
beauty in the starry sky. Brilliant, too, were the north-
em constellations ; and when the real moon was at its
ftill, it made its stately circuit in the heavens, without
descending below the horizon, and lighted up the vast
piles of ice with a pale luster, almost as great as the
morning twilights of more genial skies.

Around the vessels the crews built a wall of ice ; anci
in ice huts they stowed away their cordage and storei
to make room for exercise on the decks. They organ-
ized a theatrical company, and amused themselves and
the ofScers with comedy well performed. Behind the
pieces of hummock each actor learned his part, and
by means of calico they transformed themselves into
female characters, as occasion required. These dramas
were acted on the deck of the Advance, sometimes
while the thermometer indicated 80° below zero, and
actors and audiences highly enjoyed the fhn. Thev
also went in parties during that long night, fully armed,
to hunt the polar bear, the grim monarch of the frozen
North, on which occasions tney often encountered peril-
ous adventures. They played at foot-baU, and exercised
themselves in drawing sledges, heavily laden with pro-
visions. Five hours or .each twenty-four, they thus exer-
cised in the open air, and once a week each man washed
bis whole body in cold snow water. Serious sickness
was consequently avoided, and the soorvy wMeh at-
tacked them soon yielded to remedies.

Often during that feariul night, they expected the
disaster ^f having their vessels cmshea. All iJirougb
Novtmber and Deeember, before the ice became fiist

TIIK AilKRICAN AKCTIC KXPF-DITION.

377

tlicy slept ill tlicir clothes, with knapsacks on their
bac-KS, and sledges upon the ice, laden with stores, not
knowing at what moment tlie vessels miglit be demol-
ished, and themselves forced to leave them, and make
their way toward land. On tlie 8tli of December, and
the 23d of January, they acti My lowered tiieir boats
and stood upon the ice, for the crushing masses were
making the timbers of the gallar> ^'^scrcreak and its
decks to rise in the center. The} \ :'o then m'nety
miles from land, and hope hardly wiiispered an encour-
aging idea of life bein^ sustained. On the latter occa-
sion, when officers and crew stood upon the ice, with
the ropes of their provision sledges m their hands, a
terrible snow-drift came from the northeast, and intense
darkness shrouded them. Had tlie vessel then been
crushed, all must have perished. But God, who ruled
the stonn, also put forth His protecting arm and saved
them.

Early in February the northern horizon began to bo
streaked with gorgeous twilight, the herald ot the ap-
proaching king of day ; and on the 18tli the disc of
the sun first appeared above the horizon. Ap its golden
rim rose above the glittering snow-drifts and piles of
ice, three hearty cheei*s went up from those haray mar-
iners, and they welcomed their deliverer from the
chains of frost as cordially as those of old who chanted,

" See ! the conquering hero comes,
Sound the tnimpet, beat the druma"

Day after day it rose higher and higher, and while the
pallid faces of the voyagers, bleached during that long
night, darkened by its beams, the vast masses of ice
began to yield to its fervid influences. The scurvy dis-
appeared, and from that time, until their arrival home,
not a man suftered from sickness. As they slowly
drifted through Davis' Straits, and the ice gave indica-
tions of breaking up, the voyagers made preparations
for sailing. The Kescue was re-occupied, (Mav 13th,
1851,) and her stone-post, which had been broken by
the ice in Barrow's Straits, was repaired. To accom*
plish this, they were obliged to dig away the ice which

378

PKOOREBS OF AKCrTIG DISCOVERY.

was frohi 12 to 14 feet thick around her, as represented
in the engraving. They reshipped their rudders ; re-
moved the felt covering ; placed their stores on deck,
and then patiently awaited the disruption of the ice
This event was very sudden and appalling. It began
to give way on the 5th of June, and in tne space of
twenty minutes the whole mass, as far as the eye could
reach, became one vast field of moving floes. On the
10th of June, they emerged into open water, a little
south of the Arctic Circle, in latitude 65° 30'. They^
immediately repaired to Godhaven, on the coast of
Greenland, where they refitted, and, unappalled by the
perils through which they had just passed, they once
more turned their prows northward to encounter anew
the ice squadrons of Bafiin's Bay. Again they trav-
ersed the coast of Greenland to about the 73d de-
gree, when they bore to the westward, and on the 7tb
and 8th of July, passed the English whaling fleet near
the Dutch Islands. Onward they pressed through
the accumulating ice to Baffin's Island, where, on
the 11th, they were joined by the Prince Albert, then
out upon another cruise. They continued in com-
pany until the 3d of August, when the Albert departed
for the westward, determined to try the more south
em passage. Here again our expedition encountered
vast fields of hummock-ice, and were subjected to the
most imminent perils. The floating ice, as if moved by
adverse currents, tumbled in huge masses, and reared
upon the sides of the sturdy little vessels like monsters
of the deep intent upon destruction. These masses
broke in the bulwarks, and sometimes fell over upon
the decks with terrible force, like rocks rolled over a
plain by mountain torrents. The noise was fearftd ; bo
deafening that the mariners could scarcely hear each
other's voices. The sounds of these rollinjg masses, to-
gether with the rending of the icebergs floating near,
and the vast floes, produced a din like the discharge of
a thousand pieces of ordnance upon a field of battle.
Finding the north and west closed against further
progress, oy impenetrable ice, the brave De Haven was

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THE AMERICAN ABGTIC EXPEDITION.

379

balked, and turning his vessels homeward, they camo
out into an open sea, somewhat crippled, but not a
plank seriously started. During a storm off the banks
of Newfoundland, a thousand miles from New York,
.the vessels parted company. The Advance arrived
safely at the Navy Yard at Brooklyn on the 30th of
September, and the Rescue joined her there a few days
afterward. Toward the close of October, the govern-
ment resigned the vessels into the hands of Mr. Grin-
nell, to be used in other service, but with the stipulation
that they are to be subject to the order of the Secretary
of the Navy in the spring, if required for another
expedition in search of Sir John Franklin.

We have thus given a very brief account of the prin-
cipal events of interest connected with the American
Arctic Expedition ; the officers of which will doubtless
publish a more detailed narrative. Aside from the suc-
cess which attended our little vessels in encountering the
perils of the polar seas, there are associations which must
forever hallow the effort as one of the noblest exhibitions
of the true glory of nations. The navies of America and
England have before met upon the ocean, but they met
for deadly strife. Now, too, they met for strife, equally
determined, but not with each other. They met m the
holy cause of benevolence and human sympathy, to
battle with the elements beneath the Arctic Circle ; and
the chivalric heroism which the few stout hearts of the
two nations displayed in that terrible conflict, redounds
a thousand-fold more to the glory of the actors, their
governments, and the race, than if four-score ships,
with ten thousand armed men had fought for the mas-
tery of each other upon the broad ocean, and battered
hulks and marred corpses had gone down to the coral
caves of the sea, a dreadful offering to the demon of
Distord. In the latter event, troops of widows and or-
phan children would have sent up a cry of wail ; now,
the heroes advanced manfully to rescue husbands and
fathers to restore them to their wives and children.
How glorious the thought I and how suggestive of the
beauty of that fast approaching day, when tho n*\tiw«

380

PB00RKS8 09 AUGTIC DISOOV'KK'/.

eball Bit down iu pcaco as united children of one
household.

Winter in the ARcrno Ocean.

The following narrative, showing the wapr the wintei
of 1851-62 was passed by those engaged in the recent
arctic expedition, is from the official report made by
Lieut. De Haven, the Commander of the expedition :

" On the morning of the 13th Sept., 1850, the wind
having moderated sufficiently, we got under way, and
working our way through some streams of ice, arrived
in a few hours at * Griffith's ' Island, under the lee of
which we found our consort made fast to the shore,
where she had taken shelter in the gale, her crew hav-
ing suftered a good deal from the inclemency of the
weatlier. In bnnging to under the lee of the island,
she had the misfortune to spring her rudder, so that on
joining us, it was with mucli difficulty she could steer.
To insure her safety and more rapid progress, she was
taken in tow by the Advance, when siie oore up with
a fine breeze from the westward. Oft' Cape Martyr,
we left the English squadron under Capt. Austin.
About ten miles further to the east, the two vessels un-
der Capt. Penny, and that under Sir John Ross, were
seen secured near the land. At 8 p. m.. we had ad-
vanced as far as Cape Ilotham. Thence as far as the
increasing darkness of the night enabled us to see, there
was notlnng to obstruct our progress, except the bay
ice. This, with a good breeze, would not have im-
peded us much ; but unfortunately the wind, when it was
most requii^ed, failed us. The snow, with which tlie
surface of the water was covered, rajjidly cemented,
and fonned a tenacious coat, through which it was im-
possible with all our appliances to force the vessels. At
8 p. M., they came to a dead stand, some ten miles to
the east of Barlow's Inlet.

"The following da^ the wind hauled to the southward,
from which quarter it lasted till the 19th. During this
period the young ico was broken, its edges squeezed up

WiM'KIt I»S TUK AIUTIC OCK.IN.

abi

liko hammocks, and ono fl'>o overrun by anotlicr until
it all assumed the iiiipcaranco of lieavy ico. Tlic ves-
sels received . "ine heuvy nips iVoni it, but they with-
stood them witiiuiit injury. Whenever a 1)(h»1 of water
made its a|)j)earance, every ellort was nuule to reaeh it,
in hopes tiuit it would lead us into iieeciiey IsJand, or
Bomo other place where the vessel mi<;lit be placed in
security ; for the winter set in unusiuilly early, aiul the
severity with which it connnenccd, forbade all hopes
of our being able to return this season. I now becaujo
anxious to attain a point in the neighborhood, from
whence by means of land parties, in the 8i)ring, a goodly
extent of Wellington Channel might be examined.

" In tfie mean time, under the mllutmce of the south
wind, we were being set up the channel. On the ISth
we were above Cape liowden, the most northern point
Been on this shore uy Parry. The land on both snores
was seen much further, and trended considerably to the
west of north. To account for this drift, the hxed ico
of Wellington Channel, which we had observed in ])as8-
ing to the westward, must have been broken up and
driven to the southward by the lieavy galeof the 12th.
On the 19th the wind veered to the north, which gave
•us a southerly set, fJ.ircing us at the same time with the
western shore. This did not last long; for the next day
the wind hauled again to the south, and blew fresh,
bringing the ice in upon us with much pressure. At
midnight it broke up all around us, so that we had work
to maintain the Aclvance in a safe j)osition, and keep
ber from being separated from her consort, M'hich was
immovably lixed in the center of a large floe.

"We contimied to drill slowly to the N. N. W., until
the 22d, when our progress appeared to be arrested by
a small low island, which was discovered in that direc-
tion, about seven miles distant. A channel of three or
four miles in width separated it from Cornwallis Island.
This latter island, trending N. W. from our ])Osition,
terminated abruptly in an elevated caj)e, to which I
have given the name 6f Manning, after a warm per-
fional friend and ardent 6U])])ortcr of the ox])cdition.

382

PB00BES9 OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

Between Comwallis Island and some distant high land
visible in the north, appeared a wide channel leadinc
to the westward. A dark, misty-looking cloud whicli
hung over it, (technically termed frost-smoke,) was in-
dicative of much open wator in that direction. This
was the direction in which my instructions, referring to
the investigations of the National Observatory, concern-
ing the winds and currents of the ocean, directed me tc
look for open water. Nor was the open water the only
indication that presented itself in confirmation of thie
theoretical conjecture as to a milder climate in that
• direction. As we entered Wellington Channel, the
signs of animal life became more abundant, and Cap-
tain Penny, commander of one of the English expe-
ditions, who afterward penetrated on sledges much
toward the region of the ' frost-smoke,' much further
than it was possible for us to do in our vessels reported
that he actually arrived on the borders of this open sea.
"Thus, these admirably drawn instructions, deriving
arguments from the enlarged and comprehensive sys-
tem of physical research, not only pointed with em-
phasis to an unknown sea into which Franklin had
probably found his way, but directed me to search for
traces of his expedition in the very channel at the
entrance of which it is now ascertained he had passed
his first winter. The direction in which searcn with
most chances of success is now to be made for the
missing expedition, or for traces of it, is no doubt in
the direction which is so clearly pojnted out in my in-
structions. To the channel which appeared to lead
into the open sea over which the cloud of ' frost-smoke '
hung as a sign, I have given the name of Maury, after
the distinguished gentleman at the head of our National
Observatory, whose theory with regard to an open sea
to the north is likely to be realized through this chan-
nel. To the large mass of land visible between N. W.
to N. N. E., I gave the name of Grinnell, in honor of
the head and heart of the man in whose philanthropic
mind originated the idea of this expedition, and ^
whose munificence it owes its existence.

WINTER IN THE AKCTIC OCEAN.

383

" To a remarkable peak bearing N. N. E. from us,
distant about forty miles, was given the name of
Mount Franklin. An inlet or harbor immediately to
the north of Cape Bowden was discovered by Mr.
Griffin in his land excursion from Point Innes, on the
27th of August, and has received the name of Griffin
Inlet. The small island mentioned before was called
Murdausb's Island, -atter the acting master of the Ad-
Tance. The eastern shore of Wellington Channel ap-
peared to run parallel with the western, but it became
quite low, and being covered with snow, could not be
distinguished with certainty, so that its continuity with
the high land to the north was not ascertained. Some
email pools of open water appearing near us, an attempt
was made about fifty yards, but all our combined
efforts were of no avail in extricating the Kescue from
her icy cradle. A change of wind not only closed the
ice up again, but threatened to give a severe nip. We
unshipped her rudder and placed it out of harm's way.

" September 22d, was an uncomfortable day. The
wind was from N. E. with snow. From an early hour
in the morning, the floes began to be pressed together
with so much force that their edge was thrown up in
immense ridges of rugged hummocks. The Advance
was heavily nipped between two floes, and the ice was
piled up so high above the rail on the starboard side
as to threaten to come on board and sink us with its
weight. All hands were occupied in keeping it out.
The pressure and commotion did not cease till near
midnight, when we were very glad to have a respite
from our labors and fears. The next day we were
threatened with a similar scene, but it fortunately
ceased in a short time. For the remainder of Septem-
ber, and until the 4th of October, the vessels drifted
but little. The winds were very light, the thermometer
fell to minus 12, and ice formed over th e p ools in sight,
sufficiently strong to travel upon. We were now
strongly impressed with the belief that the ice had be-
come fixed for the winter, and that we should be able
to send out traveling parties from the advanced position

17*

384

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

for the examination of the lands to the northward
Stimulated by this fair prospect, another attempt wan
made to reach the shore in order to establish a depo^
of prov isions at or near Cape Manning, which would
materially facilitate the progress of our parties in thf»
spring ; but the ice was still found to be detached froip
tne shore, and a narrow lane of water cut us from it.

" During the interval of comparative quiet, prelimi •
nary measures were taken for heating the Advance
and increasing her quarters, so as to accomodate the
officers and crew of both vessels. No stoves had &»
yet been used in either vessel ; indeed they could not
well be put up without placing a large quantity of stores
and fuel upon the ice. The attempt was made to do
this, but a sudden crack in the floe where it appeared
strongest, causing the loss of several tons of coal, con-
vinced us that it was not yet safe to do so. It was not
until the 20th of October, we got fires below. Ten
days later the housingcloth was put over, and the offi-
cers and crew of the Kescue ordered on board the Ad-
vance for the winter. Room was found on the deck of
the Rescue for many of the provisions removed from
the hold of this vessel. Still a large quantity had to
be placed on the ice. The absence of fire below had
caused much discomfort to all hands ever since the be-
ginning of September, not so much from the low tem-
perature, as from the accumulation of moisture by
condensation, which congealed- as the temperature de-
creased, and covered the wood work of our apartments
with ice. This state of things soon began to work its
effect upon the health of the crews. Several cases of
scurvy appeared among them, and notwithstanding the
indefatigable attention and active treatment resorted to
by the medical officers, it could not be eradicated — its
progress, however, was checked.

"All through October and ITovember, we were drifted
to and fro by the changing wind, but never passing out
of "Wellington Channel. On the 1st of November, the
new ice had attained the thickness of 37 inches. Still,
frequent breaks would occur in it, often in fearful prox-

1*1

WUTTIB IN TH£ ABGTIO 00£AV.

885

unity to the vessels. Hummoclcs consisting of massive
granite-like blocks, would be thrown up to the hei<^ht
of twenty, and even thirty feet. This action in the ice
was accompanied with a variety of sounds impossible
to be described, but when heard never failed to carry a
feeling of awe into the stoutest hearts. In tlie stillness
of an arctic night, they could be heard several miles,
and often was the rest of all hands disturbed by them.
To guard against the worst that could happen to us —
the destruction of the vessels — the boats were prepared
and sledges built. Thirty days' provisions were placed
in for all hands, together with tents and blanket bags
for sleeping in. Besides this, each man- and officer had
his knapsack containing an extra suit of clothes. These
were all kept in readiness for use at a moment's notice.
"For the sake of wholesome exercise, as well as to in-
ure the people to ice traveling, frequent excursions were
made with our laden sledges. The officers usually took
the lead at the drag ropes, and tliey, as well as the men
underwent the labor of surmounting the rugged hum-
mocks, with great cheerfulness and zeal. Kotwith-
Btanding the low temperature, all hands usually returned
in a profuse perspiration. We had also other soured
of exercise and amusements, such as foot-ball, skating,
sliding, racing, with theatrical representations on holi-
days and national anniversaries. These amusements
were continued throughout the Winter, and contributed
very materially to the cheerfulness and general good
health of all hands. The drift had ^set us gradually to
the S. E., until we were about five miles to the S. W.
of Beechey Island. In this position we remained com-
paratively stationary about a week. We once more
began to entertain a hope that we had become fixed for
the winter, but it proved a vain one, for on the last day
of November a strong wind from the westward set in,
with thick snowy weather. The wind created an im-
mediate movement in the ice. Several fractures took
place near us, and many heavy hummocks were thrown
up. The floe in which our vessels were imbedded, was
being rapidly encroached upon, bo that we were in mo-

380

fROQRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

mentary fear of the ice breaking from around them,
and that tlicy would be once more broken out and left
to the tender mercies of the crashing floes.

" On the following day (the Ist of December) the
weather cleared off, and the few hours of twilight
which we had about noon, enabled us to get a glimpse
of the land. As well as we could make it out, we ap-
peared to be off Gascoigno Inlet. "We were now clear
of Wellington Channel, and in the fair way of Lan-
caster Sound, to be set either up or down, at the mercy,
of the prevailing winds and currents. We were not
long left in doubt ^s to the direction we had to pursue.
The winds prevailed from the westward, and our drift
was steady and rapid toward the mouth of the Sound.
The prospect before us was now any thing but cheering.
We were deprived of our last fond hope, that of be-
coming fixed in some position whence operations could
be carried on by means of traveling parties in the
spring. The vessels were fast being set out of the
region of search. Nor was this our only source of un-
easiness. The line of our drift was from two to five
miles from the north shore, and whenever the moving
ice met with any of the capes or projecting points of
land, the obstruction would cause fractures in it, ex-
tending off to and far beyond us. Gape Hurd was the
first and most prominent point — we were but two
miles from it on the 3d of December. Nearly all day
the ice was both seen and heard to be in constant mo-
tion at no great distance from us. In the evening a
crack on our floe took place not more than twenty-five
yards ahead of the Advance. It opened in the course
of the evening to the width of 190 yards.

" No further disturbance took place until noon of the
6th, when we were somewhat startled by the familiar
and unmistakable sound of the ice grinding against
the side of the ship. Going on deck, 1 perceived that
another crack had taken place, passing along the length
of the vessel. It did not open more than a foot ; this,
however, was sufficient to liberate the vessel, and she
rose several inches bodily, having become more buoy-

WINTER IN TUB ARCnO OCEAN.

887

ant since slie froze in. The following day, in tlie
evening the crack opened several yards, leaving the
sides 01 the Ad^ ance entirely free, and she was once
more supported by and rode in her own element. "We
were not, though, by any means, in a pleasant situation.
The floes were considerably broken in all directions
around us, and one crack had taken place between the
two vessels. The Rescue was not disturbed in her bed
of ice.

" December 7th, at 8 A. M., the crack in which we
were, had opened and formed a lane of water fifty-six
feet wide, communicating ahead at the distance of sixty
feet with ice of about one foot in thickness, which had
formed since the 3d. The vessel was secured to the
largest floe near us (that on which our spare stores were
deposited.) At noon, the ice was again in motion,
and began to close, affording us the pleasant prospect
of an inevitable nip between two floes of the heaviest
kind. In a short time the prominent points took our
side, on the starboard, just about the main-rigging, and
on the port under the counter, and at the fore-rigging ;
thus bringing three points of pressure in such a position
that it mustjhave proved fatal to a larger or less
strengthened vessel. The Advance, however, stood it
bravely. After trembling and groaning in every joint,
the ice passed under and raised her about two and
a half feet. She was let down again for a moment,
and then her stern was raised about five feet. Her
bows being unsupported, were depressed almost as
much. In this imcomfortable position we remained.
The wind blew a gale from the eastward, and the ico
all around was in dreadful commotion, excepting, for-
tunately, that in immediate contact with us. The com-
motion in the ice continued all through the night; and
we were in momentary expectation of the destruction
of both vessels. The easterly gale had set us some
two or three miles to the west. As soon as it was light
enough to see on the 9th, it was discovered that the
heavy ice on which the Rescue had been imbedded
for so long a time, was entirely broken up, and piled

SSb

PR0GBE8S OF AtUJllG DISCOYEKT.

up around her in massive hummocks. On her pumps
being sounded, I was gratified to learn that she remained
tight, notwithstanding the immense straining and
pressure she must have endured.

" During this period of trial, as well as in all former
and subsequent ones, I could not avoid being struck
with the calmness and decision of the officers, as well
as the subordination and ^ood conduct of the men,
without an exception. Each one knew the imminence
of the peril that surrounded us, and was prepared to
abide it with a stout heart. There was no noise, no
confusion. I did not detect, even in the moment when
the destruction of the vessel seemed inevitable, a sin-
gle desponding look among the whole crew ; on the
contrary, each one seemed resolved to do his whole
duty, and every thing went on cheerily and bravely.
For my own part, I had become quite an invalid, so
much so as to prevent my taking an active part in the
duties of the vessel as I had always done, or even from
incurring the exposure necessary to proper exercise.
However, I felt no apprehensions that the vessel would
not be properly taken care of, for I had perfect confi-
dence in one and all by whom I was surrounded. I
knew them to be equal to any emergency, but I felt
under special obligations to the gallant commander
of the Rescue, for the efficient aid he rendered me.
With the kindest consideration, and the most cheerful
alacrity, he volunteered to perform the executive duties
during the winter, and relieve me from every thing
that might tend in the least to retard my recovery.

" During the remainder of December, the ice re-
mained quiet immediately around us, and breaks were
all strongly cemented by new ice. In our neighbor-
hood, however, cracks were daily visible. Our drift
to the eastward averaged nearly six miles ^ .er day ; so
that on the last of the month we were at the entrance
of the Sound, Cape Osborn bearing north from us.

"January, 1851. — On passing out of the Sound, and
opening Baffin's Bay, to the north was seen a dark hori-
zon, in£cating much open water in that direction. On

WINTER IN THE AECTIC OCEAN.

389

the 11th, a crack took place between ns and the Kescue,
passing close under our stem, and forming a lane of
water eighty feet wide. In the afternoon the floes be-
gan to move, the lane was closed up, and the edges of
the ice coming in contact with so much pressure, threat-
ened the demolition of the narrow space which sepa-
rated us from the line of fracture. Fortunately, the
floes again separated, and assumed a motion by which
the Rescue passed from our stern to the port bow, and
increased her distance from us 709 yards, where she
came to a stand. Our stores that were on the ice were
on the same side of the cracks as the Rescue, and of
course were carried with her. The following day the
ice remained quiet, but soon after midnight, on the
13th, a gale having sprung up from the westward, it
once more got into violent motion. The yoimg ice in
the crack near our stern was soon broken up, the edges
of the thick ice came in contact, and fearful pressures
took place, forcing up a line of hummocks which ap-
proached within ten feet of our stem. The vessel
trembled and complained a great deal.

" At last the floe broke up around us into many
pieces, and became detached from the sides of the
vessel. The scene of frightful commotion lasted until
4 A. M. Every moment I expected the vessel would
be crushed or overwhelmed by the massive ice forced
up far above our bulwarks. The Rescue being further
removed on the other side of the crack from the lino
of crushing, and being firmly imbedded in heavy ice,
I was in hopes would remain undisturbed. This was
not the case; for, on sending to her as soon as it was
light enough to see, the floe was found to be broken
away entirely up to her bows, and there formed into
such high hummocks that her bowsprit was broken ofl*,
together with her head, and all the light wood work
about it. Had the action of the ice continued much
longer, she must have been destroyed. We had the
misfortune to find sad havoc had been made among
the stores and provisions left on the ice ; and few bar-
rels were recovered ; but a large portion were crushed
and had disappeared.

390

PBOOBESe OF ABCTTIC DISCX)VEBY.

" On the morning of the 14th there was again Bomo
motion in the floes. That on the port side moved off
from the vessel two or three feet and there became
stationary. This left the vessel entirely detached
from the ice round the water line, and it was expected
she would once more resume an upright position. ^ In
this, however, we were disappointed, lor sne remained
with her stern elevated, and a considerable lift to star-
board, being held in this uncomfortable position by the
heavy masses which had been forced under her bottom
She retained this position until she finally broke out
in the spring. We were now fully launched into Baf-
fin's Bay, and our line of drift began to be more south-
erly, assuming a direction nearly parallel with the
western shore of the Bay at a distance of from 40 to
70 miles from it.

" After an absence of 87 days, the sun, on the 29th
of January, rose his whole diameter above the south-
ern horizon, and remained visible more than an hour.
All hands gave vent to delight on seeing an old friend
again, in three hearty cheers. The length of the days
now went on increasing rapidly, but no warmth was
yet experienced from the sun's rays ; on the contrary
the cold became more intense. Mercury became con-
gealed in February, also in March, which did not occur
at any other period during the winter. A very low
temperature was invariably accompanied with clear
and calm weather, so that our coldest days were per-
haps the most pleasant. In the absence of wind, we
could take exercise in the open air without any incon-
venience from the cold. But with a strong wind blow
ing, it was dangerous to be exposed to its chilling blasts
for any length of time, even when the thermometer
indicated a comparatively moderate degree of tem-
perature.

" The ice around the vessels soon became cemented
again and fixed, and no other rupture was experienced
until it finally broke up in the spring, and allowed us
to escape. Still we kept driving to the southward
along with the ai hole mass. Open lanes of water were

WINTER IN THE AROTIO OOEA.

891

lotne

loff

;ame

ched

Bcted

. In

ained

► Btar-

ly the

)ttoin

j:e out

oBaf-

Bouth-

h the

L4:0tO

e 29th
south-
1 hour,
friend
e days
;h was
>ntrary
e con-
It occur
iry low
clear
|re per-
d, we
incon-
blow
blasts
iineter
tem-

lented
Kenced

red us
Ihward
Ir were

visible at all times from aloft ; sometimes they would
be formed within a mile or two of ns. Narwhals,
seals, and dovekys were seen in them. Our sports-
men were not expert enough to procure any, except a
few of the latter ; although they were indefatigable in
their exertions to do so. Bears would frequently be
seen prowling about ; only two were killed during the
winter ; others were wounded, but made their escape.
A few of us thought their flesh very palatable and
wholesome ; but the majority utterly rejected it. The
flesh of the seal, when it could be obtained, was re-
ceived with more favor.

" As the season advanced, the cases of scurvy became
more numerous, yet they were all kept under control
by the unwearied attention and skillful treatment of
the medical officers. My thanks are due to them, es-
pecially to Passed Assistant Surgeon Kane, the senior
medical officer of the expedition. I often had occa-
sion to consult him concerning the hygiene of tiie
crew, and it is in a great measure owing to the advice
which he save and the expedients which he recom-
mended, that the expedition was enabled to return
without the loss of one man. By the latter end of
February the ice had become sufficiently thick to en-
able us to build a trench around the stem of the Res-
cue, sufficiently deep to ascertain the extent of the
injury she had received in the gale at Griffith's Isl-
and. It was not found to be material ; the upper gud-
geon alone had been wrenched from the stem post. It
was adjusted, and the mdder repaired in readiness for
shipping, when it should be required. A new bow-
sprit was also made for her out of the few spare spars
we had left, and every thing made seaworthy in both
vessels before the breaking up of the ice.

"In May, the noon-day began to take effect upon the
snow which covered the ice ; the surface of the floea
became watery, and difficult to walk over. Still the
dissolution was so slow in comparison with the mass
to be dissolved, that it must have taken it a long pe-
riod to become liberated from this cause alone. Mora

392

I'UOGKKSa OF AUCTIC lUSCoVERY.

was expected from our sonthorly drift, which still con-
tinued, and must soon carry us into a milder climato
and open sea. On the 19th of IMay, the land about
Cape Soarle was made out, the first that we had scon
since passing Cape Walter Bathurst, about the 20th of
January. A few days later we were oft' Capo Walsing-
ham, and on the 27th, passed out of the Arctic Zone.

" On the 1st of April, a hole was cut in some ice that
had been forming since our first besctment in Septem-
ber; it was found to have attained the thickness of 7
feet 2 inches. In this month, (April,) the amelioration
' of the temperature became quite sensible. All hands
were kept at work, cutting and sawing the i i3 around
the vessels, in order to allow them to float oiioe more.
With the Rescue, they succeeded, after mucl» labor, in
attaining this object ; but around the stern of the Ad-
vance, the ice was so thick that our 13 feet saw was too
short to pass through it ; her bows and sides, as far aft
as the gangway, were liberated. After making some
alteration in the Rescue for the better accommodation
of her crew, and fires being lighLfd on board of her
several days previous, to remove the ice and dampness,
which had accumulated during the winter, botli officers
and crew were transferred to her on the 24th of April.
The stores of this vessel, which had been taken out,
were restored, the housing cloth taken off, and the ves-
sel made in every respect ready for sea. There was
little prospect, however, of our being able to reach the
desired element very soon. The nearest water was a
narrow lane more than two miles distant. To cut
through the ice which intervened, would have been next
to impossible. Beyond this lane, from the mast-head,
nothing but intermediate floes could be seen. It was
thought best to wait with patience, and allow nature to
work for us.

"June 6th, a moderate breeze from S. E. with pleasant
^vcather — thermometer up to 40 at noon, and altogether
quite warm and molting day. During the morning a
peculiar cracking sound was heard on the floe. I was
mclined to impute it to the settling of the snow dnf>.s an

*.«!:;

WINTKK IN TIIK AU(TIC (XJKAN.

they were acted upon by the 8un, but in tho atlernoon,
about 6 o'clock, tho puzzle was solved very lucidly, and
to the exceeding satisfaction of all hands. A crack in
tho floo took place between us and tlic Rescue, and in
a few minutes thereafter, tho whole immense field in
which we had been imbedded for so many montlis,
was rent in all directions, leaving not a ^jiece of 100
yards in diameter. The rupture was not accompanied
with any noise. The Rescue M-as entirely li])erated,
the Advance only partially. Tiie ice in whicli her after
part was imbeddea, still adhered to her from the main
chains aft, kceijing her stern elevated in its nnsightly
position. The pack, (as it may now be called,) became
quite loose, and but for our pertinacious friend acting
as an immense drug upon ns, we might have made
some headway in any desired direction. All our efforts
were now turned to getting rid of it. Witli saws, axes,
and crowbars, tho people M'ont to wt)rk with a right
g()od will, and after hard labor tor 48 hours succeeded.
The vessel was again afloat, and slie righted. Tiio joy
of all hands vented itself spontaneously in tln-eo hearty
cheers. The after part of the false keel was gone, be-
ing carried away by the ice. The loss of it, however,
I was glad to perceive, did not materially afiect tho
sailing or working qualities of the vessel. The rudders
were shipjjed, and we were once more ready to move,
as efficient as on the day wo left New York.

"Steering to the S. E. and working slowly through tho
loose but heavy pack, on the 9th we parted from tho
Rescue in a dense fog, she taking a different lead from
the one the Advance was purauing."

jant
:her

'•*

394 PBUQSSM OF ABOTIO DUOOVKBT.

IdLTttf AoootJim — Obovsd fOB Hon.

Mr. Wm. Penny, of Aberdeen, states in a letter to
the Times, that Oapt. Martin, who, when commanding
the whaler Enterprise, in 1845, was the last person to
communicate with Sir. J. Franklin, has just mformed
him that the Enterprise was alongside the Erebus, in
Melville Bay, and Sir John Franklin invited him,
(Oapt. Martm,) to dine with him, which the latter de-
clined doing, as the wind was fair to go south. Sir
John, while conversing with Oapt. Martin, told him
•that he had five years' provisions, which he could
make last seven, and his people were busily engaged
in salting down birds, of which they had several casks
ftill already, and twelve men were out shooting more.
**To see such determination and foresight," observes
Mr. Penny, ** at that early period, is really wonderful,
and must give us the greatest hopes.'' Mr. Penny
Bays that Oieipt. Martin is a man of fortune, and of the
■triotest inte^ty.

The followmg is the deposition of Oapt. Martin, just
received in the London Times, of Jan. 1, 1852, con-
taining the facts above alluded to :

Bobert Martin, now master and commander of the
whaleship Intrepid, of Peterhead, solemnly and sin-
cerely declares that on the 22d day of July, 18452when
in command of the whale ship Enterprise, of Peter-
head, in lat. Y6** 10', long. 66° "W., calm weather, and
towing, the Erebus and Terror were in company. These
ships were alongside the Enterprise for about fifteen
minutes. The declarant conversed with Sir John
Franklin, and Mr. Keid, his ice-master. The conver-
sation lasted all the time the ships were close. That
Sir John, in answer to a question by the declarant if
he had a ffood supply of provisions, and how long he
expected uiem to last, stated that he had provisions
for five years, and if it were necessary he could ''make
them spm out seven years ;" and he said farther, that
he would lose no opportunity of killing birds, and
whatever else was useral that oame in the way, to keep

LAT£irT AOUOUMiV.

396

up their Block, and that he had plenty of powder and
Bhot for the purpose. That Sir John also stated that
lie had already several casks of birds salted, and had
tlien two shooting parties out — one from each ship.
The birds wore very numerous ; many would fall at a
single shot, and the declarant has himself killed forty
at a shot with white pease. That the birds are very
agreeable food, are m taste and size somewhat like
young pigeons, and are called by the sailors " rotges."

That on tlie 26th or 28th of said month of July, two
parties of Sir John's officers, who had been out snoot-
ing, dined with the declarant on board the Enterprise.
There was a boat with six from each ship. Their con-
versation was to the same effect as Sir John's. They
spoke of expecting to be absent four or five, or per-
haps six years. Tuese officers also said that the snips
would winter where they could find a convenient place,
and in spring push on as far as possible, and so on
year ailer year, as the determination was to pusli on
as far as practicable.

That on the following day, an invitation was broueht
to the declarant, verbally, to dine with Sir John, But
the wind shifted, and the Enterprise having cut through
the ice about a mile and a naif, the declarant was
obliged to decline the invitation. That he saw the
Erebus and Terror for two days longer; they were
still lying at an iceberg, and the Enterprise was mov-
ing slowly down the country. That so numerous were
the birds mentioned, and so favorable was the weather
for shooting them, that a very large number must have
been secured during the time the declarant was in
eight of the two ships. The Prince of "Wales whaler
wjis also within sight during the most of the time.
Chat from the state of the wind and weather for a pe-
riod of 10 days, during part of which the declarant
•vas not in sight of the two ships, the best opportunity
was afforded for securing the birds. That the birds
described are not to be found at all places on the fish-
ing ground during the whaling season, but are met
with in vast numbers every season on certain feeding

396

PitOGBKSa OF AIKTIK! DISCOVEKY.

V'"^' *,

banks and places for brooding, and it appeared at the
time by the declarant to be a most fortunate circum-
stance that the Erebus and Terror had fallen in with
so many birds, and that the state of the weather was
so favorable for securing large numbers of them. The
declarant has himself had a supply of the same de-
scription of birds, which kept fresh and good during
three months, at Davis' Strait, and the last were as
good as the first of them.

"Which declaration, above written, is now made
conscientiously, believing the same to be true.

EoBEBT Mabtin.

Declared, December, 29th, 1851, before

K. Gbath, Provost of Peterhead.

From this it would appear that it is not impossible,
perhaps not improbable, that Sir John Franklin may
vet make his appearance, coming down from those ice-
Dound regions bringing with him his noble ships and
their danng crews, and giving joy to thousands upon
thousands who are watching with intense interest the
unraveling of the mystery of his absence, and espe-
cially bringing joy inexpressible to the heart of that
noble lady, with which thousands of hearts throughout
the civilized world beat in sympathy.

.:*

•.#-

BOOKS AKCBMTLT PUBLISHED BT DKllBY A MILLSB.

SEWARD'S LIFE OF JOHN Q. ADAMS.

* • We are glad to see a pretty full account of Mr. Adams' Anti-Slavery
•flbrts in Congress have been given; for, great as his public services were during a
long life, his greatest fame with the present and future generations, will rest upon
his ctForts to break down the Slave power. The great men who eulogized Mr.
Adams in Congress and el.sewherc, generally passed silently over this part of hia
life, as if it was something not very creditable to him, and to be talked about as littlo
as possible. Mr. Seward has taken a better view of the subject. We can recom-
mend this biography as being a clear and concise history of Mr. Adams' life. *

* * Lowell Republican, {Free Soil.)

It is a work well written, prepared evidently with care, conveys an excellent idea
of the life and services of that distinguished patriot and statesman. It is well
adapted for popular reading, and comes within the means of every citizen. * *

And possessing, as it does, a fund of historical and biographical information, of iho
most interesting description, it will be a desirable book for the iibiary and a welcomo
companion to any man who cherishes a respect for the memory of Adams, * ,

* * Boston Journal.

* * We have read it and are delighted with the good t!i«te and discrimina-
tion with which facts and cotemporary events are brought lu' to show forth the
noble and manly stand of John Quincy Adams. Next to our r. iiionnl pride, that we
have such great and good pien to adorn the pages of our histoi;-, we should glory in
having authors like Wm H. Seward, to chronicle their lives u... their doeda. '

* • Massachusetts Eagle.

The association of such names as Adams and Seward, one as the subject of tne
biography, and the other as the biographer, must give to this work an interest whica
rarely attaches to anything emanating from an American pen. * • • ,

Washington Advocate.

We would recommend this work to every class of mind — to the vicious, that they
may be benefited by the contrast — to the virtuous, that they uny bo incited to aiill
higher attainments — to the patriot, that the love of country n:;iy be reuowed in hia
bosom — to the Christian, that he may see how to honor God ia exalted positions —
to the young, that they may drink from the pure rill of patviotiin, and loaru to
cherish and protect their privileges — and lastly to the old, that tlay may yet onco
more read the lessons of wisdom, as they distilled from the li;)s of him who was a
Nestor among statesmen. — Wisco7isin Chronicle.

This volume has been now but a few months before the public, during which vm.
understand that some 20,000 copies have been circulated. The fact is siiflir.ient to
•ihow that the deceased statesman has found a worthy biographer. Dt iijned for
popular use, and prepared from the materials existing in public documents and
journals, it is a book, nevertheless, that c^innot fail to be read with interest by the
scholar as well as the masses. The writer seems imbued with a sincere reverenc«
for the great man whose career he. chronicles, and depicts its various eventful
incidents with spirit and fidelity. There is no book thai wo now remember, whicfc
presents in the same compass so much that is interesting in our history, during tha
period of which It treats.— Washington Repubiic

«^

BooiM' latciJMfLt p&BwtttH^ vt ttmoii * Mistaft

SEWARD'S UPE OF JOHN Q. ADAMS.

•■ • We are glad to see a pretty full account of Mr. Adams' Anti-Slavery

•flbrts In Congress have been given ; for, great as his public s«rvicos were during a
long life, his greatest fame with the present and future generations, will rest upon
his efforts to break down the Slave power. The great men who eulogized Mr.
Adams in Congress and elsewhere, generally passed silently over this part of his
life, as if it was something tiot very creditable to him, and to be talked about as little
as possible. Mr. Seward has taken a better view of the subject. We can recom-
mend this biography as being a clear and concise history of Mr. Adams' life. *

* * Lowell Republican, {Free Soil.)

And possessing, as it dues, a fund of historical and biographical information, of tb«
most interesting description, it will be a desirable book for the library and a welcome
companion to any man who cherishes a respect for th« memory uf Adams. *

* * Boston Journal.

* * We have read it and are delighted with the good taste and dlscrimina*
tion with which facts and cotemporary events are brought in to show forth tha
noble and manly stand of John Quincy Adains. Next to our national pride, that we
have such great and good men to adorn the pages of our history, we should glory in
having authors like Wm, H. Seward, to chronicle their lives and thoir deeds. *

. * Massachusetts Eagle.

The association of such names as Adams and Soward, one as the subject of the
biography, and the other as the biographer, must give to this work an interest which
rarely attaches to anything emanating from an American pen. * ' • ^^

Wc^hington Advocate.

We would recommend this work to every class of mind — to the vicious, that they
may be benefited by the contrast — to the virtuous, that they may be incited to still
higher attainments — to the patriot, that the love of country may be renewed in his
bosom — to the Christian, that he may see how to honor God in exalted poeitions —
to the young, that they may drink from the pure riU of patriotism, and learn to
cherish and protect their privileges — and lastly to the old, that they may yet once
more read the lessons of wisdom, as they distilled fh>m the lips of him who was a
Nester among statesmen.— Wisconsin Chronicle.

This volume has been now but a few months before the public, during whioh we
understand that some 20,000 copies have been circulated. The fact is sufficient to
Aow that the deceased statesman has found a worthy biographer. Designed for
popular use, and prepared from ihe materials existing in public documents and
journals, it is a book, nevertheless, that cannot fail to be read with interest by the
scholar as well as the masses. The writer seems imbued with a sincere reverence
for the great man whose career he chronicles, and depicts its various eventful
incidents with spirit and fidelity. There is no book that we now remember, which
(jipesents in the same compass so much that is interesting in our history, during Uw
period of whioh it treats.— Waahin^fton B^fubtie.

Mr snnr * muju.

The American Lady't Sjritem of Cookery, com-
pxiaing every yariely of information for ordinary and Holidqr
occadons. By Mrs. T. J. Cbowek.

The *' Amtrtcan System of Cookery " ii a eapiul book of its class, and for whiek
wa bespeak the good word of all thnftj housekeepen. It introduces us into a wit*
dt;mess of sweets, where no rude surfeit reigns! Tlw almost innumerable variety of
good tliingB, clearly and orderly set forth, Is moat apetixinc for the hungry reader,
just before dinner.

Hbre is an American housewife, sensible and thrifty, wlio has laid down directioo*
for making all sorts of dishes, baking all kinds of cakea and pies, manufacturing erery
TarietT orconfectionery, preaerring, pickling, &c., so plainly that a housekeeper or
M week's standing can easily act upon her directions, and yet taken so comprehenaiTa
a scope, that the very best and moat skilful will ilnd something new. We taka for
granted, that as the latest, it is the best book of iu class.

The writer of this roluma has preTiousIy published a similar work, on a bbmI
Mala—** ETenr Ladjr'a Book"— ofwhieh mora than two hondrorl thousand eopiea ara
Mid to hare Mea sold. If this ia not popularity, wa know not what iM,—LUtrary
World,

The **Amatlcan Syatem of Cookery," ia tha titla of a goodly sixed duodecimo, pab*
llahed in New York. The authoress of this work haa obuined considerable celebrity,
by a work which she entitled *' Eirery Lady's Book," and wa belieTe she will add ta
kar dMs r rad sradit bT tha present roluma, which cornea home lo the stanack «f
•Taty mao. Tlw recelpta are abundant and practieaL— AbttA Americmt.

Of all tha tafonna, none ia more loudly called for thaa ooa in Ameriean Cooka^->
that being one in wliich oTorybody is Imerested. That the national health woula ba
battar, if^tha national Utclwn were more philosophically and phyorologically man**
nd, taara aaema to be no doubt anywhere. Even morala aufier, beyond question,
ttroui^ the infloeaca of cruda, ill-selected aliment. Who Imows but the Mexican
war mayba traced to an ill-cooied, ill-assorted, contradictory, and irriuting eabinat

Mnnmr t

A Lady of Naw York tails ua how lo make a great many nice, wholesome thingn^
and wa beg our ^'eaders not to imagine we speak rashly, or eren theoretically, vrai
Uda all-important subject— wa hare tasted, and wa testify without a aisgiTing. •*«•
proof of the pudding," etc— Uhton Migaxine.

lliua our wife Mttles the question. The mme author's " Brery Lady'e Book," elM
aaid. might be UMful for some folks, but the real aimon pure, Yankee, Amerieaa
Cook Book, waa the thing exactly, Just such a book as she should liaTe made, if aha
had cookedf it up herMlf. She nys it ia made on common eense principled ; the mlea
are exactly aneh as sensible folks follow in this democratic land, who regard tasta,
kaaltli, ana aeonomy. Our wi A «avs ^bat. witii soma Cook Books, one haa to deduat
half tlia spice, shortning and au^ar. Oui- book, howerer. m our wife declares, la
praetiMbla, and is to ba followed to tha lauar.-~Olm<ml Wa$hirtgtonian Ansa.

Thia book is compiled by a perMa af praetlMl knowledge of the subject, who, aa
ftatad bi the preface, han been for the last eight yean emplofed in collecting infer*
nation on the snbjeet of the work, and in reducing to praetiea the receipts obtained.
'-Evtning Pott.

By tha spidBSH of tiw pralhea, and by tha Tary ftnmy apiatle with wAich tiia an*
thoresa of this book sanda ua a copy, we cannot doubt tier to be a woman of talait ;
and M Mrs. Child has appUad her genina to the maUnf of anch a book, wa can tM*
liara OTen a Cooking Book nay ba better for genioa ia tha writer.— ITorm Journal.

Thisappaara to be tha moat complete aad ntisfaetory eoOMtion of receipta ia wa
calinary art. which tha skill and enterpriw of American ladieii ^voted to tha aabjeai^
kaTepradaSfld. fteoalainaalaigaamoBBtof aatteriaaTolaMaef Tarygoodain,
aaamanqaLaodwekayMafldaBM,frem tha deeidad taatimonyof thoM who haya
iMiad ftaiMrita, 1b iiwniiMniling tt to boaaa-kaapan.— /yvfwMMf OtersAswi.

BOOKS AECENTLT PUBLISHED BT DERBY A MILLEH.

The Missionary Offering, a memorial of Christ's
lig^ Messengers in Heathen Lands, dedicated to Dr. Judson,
8 engravings, 12mo., muslin. $1,25.

We have seen nu book of late which, upon a hasty examination, we could more
cheerfully and confidently recommend. The history of the labors of Missionaries
In foreign lands has always been one of unsurpassed interest to a great class of every
community, by whom such enterprizes are conducted, and in no similar work hava
we seen this history more ably and truthfully set forth than in the oie before us.—
Bt^lfulo Commercial Advertiser.

Here ia a volume of about four hundred pages, neatly printed and illustrated,
.made up of the most interesting matter, from the pens of the firpt writers. Such a
work cannot fail to interest. What a glorious band have cast aside the heart-cling-
ing ties of home, country, and friends, and borne the peaceful emblem of Chris-
tianity to the darkest climes. Bloody rites have ceased, the funeral flame ia
extinguished, the crushing car has ceaoed to roll, and mental and moral darkness
has given away before the silent labors of the missionary. The records of such a
history cannot but interest, revealing as they do, some of the sublimest features in
the character of man — sacrifices and toils and triumphs, before which the brightest
achievements of earth dwindle into folly. — Cayuga Chief.

Tub Missionart Opperino is composed of poetical and prose writings of rare
excellence, reminiscences and incidents connected with foreign and home missions,
&,c. We consider it a valuable and interesting book, especially to the Christian and
philanthropist, and all who look upon the missionary enterprise as an institution,
*jnder the guidance of Providence, for the moral regeneration of the world.— CeTtera
Gazette.

Rational Psychology, or the subjective idea and the
objective law of aU intelligence: by Laurens P. Hickok,
D. D., Professor of Christian Theology in the Theological
Seminary, Auburn.

The few, not the many, will find pleasure end improvement in the study of a
treatise like this, discussing with much ability and research, indicative of close and
I atient thought, the abstruse science of mind, and reaching principles by a carefu]
induction of well arranged and considered facts. The author has favorably intro-
duced himself, in this work, to the thinking portion of the religious public, and will
calmly await the verdict of the learned world upon this elaborate performanca. II
is a bandsomelj printed ootavo of 700 pages.— .Y. Y. Obmntr.

BOOKS REOKim.r PUBLISHED BT DERBY /k MILLER.

The Odd Fellows' Amulet : or the principles of Odd
Fellowship defined ; the objections to the order answered ;
and its advantages maintained ; with an address to the pub-
lic, the ladies, and the order. By Rev. D. W. Bristol, Pas-
tor of the M. E. Church, and P. G. of Osco Lodge, No. 304,
at Auburn, N. Y.

The Rev. Mr. Bristol, the author of the above work, is n popular clergyman of tljo
Methodist church. He appears to have wiiiien the work not merely for Odd Fellown,
but to disabuse the i>ublic mind, if possible, of prejudices I'ornicd against the Order.
A spirit and design of apparent sincerity apjiears to pervade the entire work, and tho
writer discusses his themes and meets the objections urged against Odd Fellows, with
a great deal of candor and respect. No person, we think, can road it, whatever may
have been his prejudices hitherto, without having those [irejudices at least, conside.
rably softened, if not wholly taken away. The style of the writer is captivating,
while the arrangement and clas.^ification of his subjects adds interest to the volume.
We have no hesitancy m recommending the Amulet as a book that may be read by
tho public — Genesee Etangeliat.

We have wiled away several hours pleasantly and profitably in its perusal, ar.d can
recommend ic as a work deserving of a large circulation. The principle.s of the Or-
der are set forth by its author, the Rev. D. W. Bristol, a distinguished Methodist
clergyman, in a masterly manner, objections instituted by many to the Order, aro
fairly tested, and answered in a mild and eatislactory way. It is a c'lenp and useful
work, and we cheerfully recommend it to public favor.— Af/rror of the Times,

Able and exceedingly interesting articles, that vrn would most cordially commend
to the attention of every reader, while we are gratified at being able to bring them
under the notice of members of the great Order. The work contains also Addresses
by Rev. D. W. Bristol, and is etnbeljished with several fine Steel Engravings. Fully
and correctly defining the principles of O. F., it should fill a niche in the library of
every Odd Fellow, where it will furnish a mine of valuable nuuier whence he can
draw at all limes for the facts illustrative of the great princi|>!e3 of the noble institu-
tion of Odd Fellowship.— GoWen Rule.

It is an excellent work, and worthy of the patronage of the Order. The objections
often urged against our insiitution, are most ihormizhly examined, and ably answer-
ed. The book is got up in good style, and is o/Iered at a low price.— yAe Ark.

W« should think that every lover of the Order which this book upholds would
adorn his library with it ; an1 every person that is opposed to it should also have
one BO that they could see their objections answered. We would say to every lover
of the poor and afflicted, buy one and peruse it for yourselves and see what the Odd
"ellowfl do for them. Its motto is " Do unto others as ye would have others do unto
you."— 7'Ae Bte.

This is a clear, fbrcible, and well written exposition of the subjects above named ;
and a book that every Odd Fellow in the country should bo in possession of. Th«
work is well got up, and embellished with several fine engravings appropriate to th»
subject of which it treats. It is sold at tlie low price of one dollar, and can be .mailed
to any part of the United States.— JJanner o/"r4c t/hion.

trORKS PUBLISHSD BT DBRBr * MILLER.

THE LIFE OF LOUIS KOSSUTH,

, dOTERNOK OP HdNOART; INCLUDINO N0TICE8 OP THE MrN ANB

Scenes op the Hunqarun Rkvolution : to which is aoobo an
Appendix, containing his principal Speechrs, &c. With an
Introduction by Horace Grkklet. Br P. C. Headley. Anbnrn
Derby &> Mii.lkr.

"We have read pretty nearly everyililng accessible which has beoi

pi^lished either ui England or this country, in reference to Kossuth

•ad'Hungarian affairs, and we are satistled that thie> is the clearest,

.^^^IJiMil luranged, and most reliable single volunao yet before the public

^ "^fAWMe absorbing »nhj^cts."—hoxlon Paper.

■^ " This is a work that every lover of freedom should be posMtased
.* o£" — Waverley LunUnary.

(.***• Mr. Headley has glowingly depicted the canses which brought
about the Hungarian war of independence, painted in his own gor-
geous style tiiebattle-fieldH of that sanguinary strife, and portrayed in
the most vivid colors the events which brought about its disastrouB
result" — Hampshire Express.'

"As a historical work this volume in valuable. The Hungarian
Revolution — its causes — its progress — its termination — all are explain-
ed in detail, and with a vividness of description which brings the iu-
cidents in almost life-view before the reader." — Troy Post.

.%'( ".It is from tlie pen of P. C. Headley, well known by his popular
historical and biographical writings, and is given in a style of glowmg
earnestness, eloquence and truthfulness, which must commend it to
(he taste and judgment of the public." — Boston Transcript.

" Its worth and popularity are suflSciently indicated by the fact Uiat
about fifteen thousand copies have already been disposed of. It k
embellished by a most spirited likeness of the great M^ar." — Chmirth
Ambassador,

" This American biography of the Hungarian is succinct, spirited,
graphic, and so far as our information extends, correct It is admi*
rably prefaced by Horace Qreeley— a preface worth the price of tb«
book — and has an appendix containing Kossuth's principal speeohei
iM^.in England and America."— .8««t0» CommonwuUtk,

'•^*'

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