IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // <' C?x ^^' -^ #/ ^ & w.. fe f/j fA 1.0 I.I "' Illy III 2.5 - 1112 ./ m ni 12.0 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 .4 6" — ► signifie "A SUIVRE ", le symbole V signifie "FIN". Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre filmds d des taux de reduction diffdrents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seui clichd, il est filmd d partir de Tangle supdrieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images ndcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. srrata to pelure, >n d D 32X 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 JOUENAL IN THE PACIFIC. i.oM.o.v: r/u.viEij nv CO., M..w-sn,KR,. squAn ■%. V. r. omi jouiiNAL L\ THE Pacific. IIY TUE OFFICEliS OF ILM.S. ZEALOUS. AnUANGliU AXD KDITEU 11 V LIEUTENANT S.' EARDLEY-WJLMOT. r. - t 'Some strange aeviso I know each youtliful wight Woi.kl here ex,,.et, of lofty brave assay But ril the simple trutli in ainijile wise convey.' IIli.NllY JlOIlIi. ^£ZX^:''^ "" "^"^^ "^"^ '' "^"^ "".-. ana that Ql-AIII.ES. yyiril A MAI- A.W XCMEIIOCS ILLUSTliATluys. LONDON : LONGMANS, G.KEEN, AND CO. 1H73. All iijhU reAciLnl. 4 i DEDICATED BY EXPRESS PERMISSION TO THK EIGHT HON. GEORGE J. GOSCHEN, M.P. FIRST LORD OF THE ADMIRALTY. ri!EFAGE. TilK Joiirru'il of a ship's cominissiou in tlic^t' liines nuifst necessarily l)e sonicwliat dry rcatliiiji;, exa'j)t, pcrliaps, to people personally interested by having taken a ])art in the scenes which it describes, and to their friends and relatives. Tlusrcfore, in presi'iitinji this book, with givat dilli- dence, to the i)nblic, wo wish to stati' that it is pub- lished with a further ol)ject, — namely, to ^e useful to any who may ha[)})en to visit the same parts of the workl either at the call of duty, as in our case, or to those sim})ly foUowing the dictates of free-will and ])leasure. So, by entering into the historical, social, and descrip- tive vein, wlien speaking of the vjirious countries visited, and also by appending a fcnv remarks concern- ing w^inds, currents, harbours, channels, and other facts useful to the navigator, we have striven, as far as in us lay, to coml)iae a little of all qualities, and suit anyone who may have curiosity enough — ay, even coui'age in these days — to read anything not highly flavoured with the marvellous. Having explained the reason why it VI II I'liEFAiJE is thus iimdc pu])lic property, it is necessary also to explain wliat are the materials of its compositit)n. Anyone on reading this book will at once porceive that it is the work not of one, but of niiniy. This is in accordance with the original idea on starting, tliat one would not be able to see as nuicli as all combined, and much interestinj^ matter mi^lit therefore be lost. It claims, therefoi'e, to be simply a matter-of-fact narrative of our sojoinui in the Pacific, with impressions of countries and localities gleaned from a certain ex2:)erience, and reflected by the minds of the several writers. This plurality of authorship also accounts for certain incongruities which the reader may perceive in the work. Ihit it has been a matter of no small difficulty to connect articles contributed with the main story, so that all may fit in intelligibly, and as much confusion as possible be prevented when personal anecdotes are mingled with general movements. For any short- comings in the execution of this task, the Editor asks indulgence. S. E. W. Juli/ 187a, ry iiUo to mpositiou. rceive tliat riiis is in , that one combined, 3 be lost, ter-of-fact ipressions I certain e several •r certain e in the difficulty story, so onfiision otes are 7 short- Editor 2. W. ^ CONTENTS. (.'ilAPTER 1. l-eavo England in the ' Ufvoiige '—Arrive at .Miidoiru— Arrive at Janmica A Dignity l?iill— Leave Jamaica— Arrive at A!age 1 CHAPTER II. T-oavo Panama— Put in at the Galnpngos Islands- Account of Charles Island — Proceed on our Journey — Amusements at sea — Arrive at 8an Francisco— Description of that city . . . .10 CIIAPTI<:il III. Arrive^ nt A'ancouver Island— Arrival of the Flying Squadron— Fes- tivities on the Queen's Birthday: Races, Kegatta, and Ball at Government House— A Visit to San Juan, Nanainio, and the Fra.^er River— New Westminster— Bnrrard's Inlet— Sport in Vancouver Lsland ... -Ji CHAPTER IV. lieave Vancouver and arrive at San Francisco— War in Europe— Its Effect on San Francisco— Dance on board— Cricket— The Theatres, &c.— The Loss of the 'Captain '—Events in Europe— Hospitalities on ehore — Social Life in San Francisco .... o;{ CHAPTER \. Sail from San Francisco for Panama- -Amusements on hoard at sea- Arrive at Panama— Riot at Taboga— Ball to Sir Charles Bright- Christening on board— Leave Panama, and arrive at Payta— A Trip to the River (^hira after Alligators— Sail from Pavta, and arrive at "'""'« " . .66 T ^ CO STENTS CllAlMEI} VI. Arrive at Tdiui' —Tiij) tu t'oncopcion— Kitrtlirumkos — fio to Juan Vox- luimk'z Itflaiiil— Selkirk's Look-out — Arrive at X'alparaiso ; description of tlie town— Theatricals on board — All'uirs in ICuropo — A Visit to .Santiufj^o — Leavf ^'alparniso ... . ivuiL lOO CIIAl'TEU VII, Arrive at Coqniinbo — Smelting "Works of fiiiayacan — Tyand small-arm men for drill — A Vi^^it to La Serena — Leave Cofjuinil)!), and arrive at Ariea — ICliecls of tlie Kiirlliqiiake and Tidal Wave — Tiie ' Wateree ' and ' America' left lu;^li and dry — Description of tlie scene by an eye- witness — Leave Arica, and arrive at Islay — A Trip to Arorpiipa — A four-win'M'd bird ....... lUo % il I CHAPTER VIIL J,cave Lslay, and arrive at Callao — IVculiaritios in the Hay — Destruc- tion of llie city in 17iS7 — Lima visited and described — The remains of I'izarro— A parallel between (.^uba and Peru — Dallis at Lima — The death of Athiialpa, the last Inca — A Trip to CIkumUos — Manner of Architecture, and general description — Leave Callao, ai 1 arrive at Puyta^JvNtraerdinary fall of rain in that place — I'ltl'ects on the town — Leave South America, and st:irt for the Sandwich Islands . 148 C1IA1'TEI{ IX. Passage from Payta to the Sandwich Islands — Amusement.s on board — Arrive at Honolulu — News from Prance — Description of Honolulu and the natives — Institutions and Laws— Their origin and govern- ment — Characteristic loyalty — The ' Pali ' — Theatrical performance on shore — Visit of (Jueen iMnma to the ship — Her amiability and popularity — Leave HaAvaii, and go over to Maui — A Trip up the niiiuntain — Hospitality of Captain McKee — Visit thp grand crater of Halookla — Start for San Francisco . . . .170 Ir CHAPTER X. The passage from the Sandwich Islands to San Fiancisco — Amusements on l)oard— Arrive at San Francisco— Events in Europe — A Trip to the Yo-Somito "S'alley and Mariposa grove of big trees — Leave San Francisco, and arrive at Vancouver Island . . 192 (OXTflNTS XI ciiAFri:K xi. ('onfi'iloratioii nf liiilish Culiiiiibia with tlic Doininiun nf ("iiniidft — The rulatioiis lii'twcoii iMigland and the Doiniiiinii — U.-riMiccloss stato cif liritish Coliiinbia — Aiuatciir jHTfiii'iiiaiice on huavd -Tlic shdotiiifj: in Vancouver Lslniul — Ueer Hunting — Acrount nf n week's oaniiiing-ont — Fisliingin Vancouver Island^PurlVirninnco at tlu! Victoria Tiu'alri' — IJall at (Jovernnieut House- Fari'svell I'all to tlu; Admiral — Lc^avo ^'a^couver Island ...... taok L'l') CIIAITER XII. Vancouver Island to San Francisco — l^lTects of a ".mle of wind — Man overboard — Arrive at San I'rancisco— Illness of the I'rinco nf Wale.s — Dance on board, as described by the ' C'hruni(,'le ' — A Colli.-ion — Fare- well to San Francisco — Keniarks on Agriculture and .Mines — Arrive at Mazatlan — State of .Mexico — IiequisitionH of tlie Revolutionists — Dances on shore and on board— Mexican Ciuiracteristics — Seining parties — Leave Mazutlan, and arrive at San Bias — Local Tormentors —The Indian Chief . . . . . .240 CHAPTER XI i I. A Visit to Tepic — l)ivi^^ion of the Populati(jn and Territory of Mexico — Iiaclvward state of the Country — Description of Tepic — Cotton and Sugar Factories — Hospitality of Senor M Leave San Bias — Touch in at Manzauilla — l^xrewell lo ^lexico — Sail for Panama — Secure a few Turtle — An attempt to account for tide rips — Arrive at Panama — Important news — Leave I'anama for Payta — I'utile attempt to stop a Steamer — The real Simon Pure turns up — Arrive at, and leave Payta — Bad state of the Ship—Passage from Payta to ^'al- paraiso ... ..... 2oU irmance ■? ity and ! up the -M ater of m . 170 1 pments [rip to |o San PJ2 CHAPTF.R XIV. ;\rrive at Valparaiso — Bad state of the Ship — Cricket and Hunting — Go to Cdqnimbo — Peculiarities of the Ivulirs Surface — The parallel Terraces— The Titan Rocks — Copper Mines — The Wcjrks at I>a Com- pania — Barrenness of the Country — Atblelic Sports— Seining — Dance at La Serena— Shooting — A Day among the Golden Plover — Theatri- cal performance on shore — Great Success — Revolution in Peru — The P>rother3 CJuttierez — Murder of the President — Tragic end of the Brothers — Inu'y of the People — .\i rival of the ' Dover i.'astle ' on lire: a total wreck — An Enquiry leads to difllculties— Ivxcitement in the town — .Vrrival of the 'I'awn ' and ' Peterel ' — Leave CVKjuimbo 27-"> XII CONTENTS u CirAPTKIJ XV. Avrivc nt Tnlcnliunno — Iniiirovenients— Railways — An niteinpt to uo to Mfilvoa — Stopped by a Fiaiidslip — Hout IvxcurHions Sliootinj.'' (lO over to ToiiH^ — Marriage on board — The Diez-i-ocho — High .Mass Rnnqnet and Speoches — The South of Chile — Its Climate, Soil, and Advantngt's for Funniiig — A Trip to Chilian — Fearful state of the Roads — Chilian— San Carlos — Fine appearance of the "Wheat — Par- tridge Shooting — (Jo to Valparaiso — Ciiand Ball at Santiago — Account of the Ball— A few Facts about Chile — How Governed — Characteristics of the Bare — Influence of the Priests — A Ilideotis Absurdity— Future Prosperity predicted — Arrival of the ' Bepul.^e ' — Bid adieu to Valparaiso , . . . . J'aci: ;)02 CHAPTER XVF. News of the * Scylla ' — Leave Tom6— Coal at Coronel — The Mines^ Leave Coronel — Anchor of}' Mocha Island — i'lnter Smyth's Channel — Anchor in Connor Cove — An Adventure on the Mountain — A perilous Descent and narrow Escape — Visited by Terni del Fuei^ians —Clothe them — A mighty Glacier — Leave Connor Cove — Tlie English Nar- rows — Difliculties of the Channel — On a Bock — Anchor in Port Grappler — Pass through Guia Narrows, and anchor in J'uerto Bueno Harbour — Anchor in Isthmus Bay — Arrive at Sandy Point — Remarks on this Settlement, Patagonians, and Terra del Fucgians — Leave Sandy Point— Arrive at St, Helena, Ascension, Madeira, ^'igo. and England . . .... . . Sa.S A ITEM nix XIU i APPENDIX TO CIIAPTEIl III. General Remarka on the Passage from Panama to San Francisco and to Vancouver Island a« to Winds, Weather, Currents, &c.-Remarks on the Harbours ot San Iraucisco and Esquimalt . . pagk i CHAPTER X. Remarks on the various Passages between leaving Vancouver Island, July 1 mo, and arriving there again, July 19, 1871-Wind8, Cur- rents, Harbours, &c, ' • • • . . VI CPIAPTER XITI. Remarkson the Pa.ssage from Vancouver Island to Valparaiso, railing at San Francisco, Mnzatlan, San Was, Manzanilla, Panama, and i'ayta— A^ inds. Currents, Anchorages, Temperature, &c. . xi CHAPTER XVI. Remarks on the Passage from Tome to Connor Cove-Smyth's Channel -English .Narrows-Port Grappler-Puerto Bueno-Isthmus Bay- Sandy Po,nt-St. Helena-Ascension-St Vincent-Vigo-Plymouth LIST OF II.LU.SriLVllOXS. |1 ! ii.M.s ' ziCAKOus ' i;ni)i:ii sail . CROSSING Tin: ISTIIMIS Ol' PANAMA . KSCiUlMALT lIAUnouiJ .... AMEUICAN CAMP ..... UltlTISII MAIUNE liAlil'.ACKS .sklkikk's CAVK ..... JUAN lEUNANUEZ IlUIiNlNO OF THE CIllUCII OV LA CAMPANIA U. S. S. SHIPS ' WATEIiEE ' AND ' AMElilCA ' AT HONOLULU ...... TWIN GIANTS, MAHIPOSA GHOVE Tin: YO-SEMITE VALLEY .... MAZATLAN THEATRICAL GHOUP OF OFFICEIiS II.M.S. 'zealous' in connou cove . APPEiNDIX. APPItOACIIlNG THE GULF OF PtNAS FROM THE NORTHWARD : MAKING THE ENTRANCE AT NIGHT ..... XXl Smyth's channel from the northward: off connou cove .xxiii ENGLISH NARROWS : FROM THE NORTH XXV Fi'ontiApii're to face }>(igi^ \'2 ») »» ■^<' . 42 . 43 . '.(4 . 95 . 104 ARICA . .114 to face page 152 . 178 to face page 184 . 232 . 208 to face page .^os MAP. SHOWING TRACKS OF H.M. SHIPS ' REVENGE ' AND ' ZEALOUS ' BETWEEN IiECEMIiER 4, I8f.'.), AND APIIIL 12, 187;j. OUR .TOURN.VI, IN THE PACIFIC . 42 • 43 • 94 . 95 . 104 . 114 tfje 152 . 178 ye 184 . 232 . 208 ye 308 CHAPTER I. LEAVE KNOLANn IN THE « RKVENOE '-ARRIVE AT MADEIRA-ARRIVE AT JAMAICA-ITS STATE-A DIf.NIfV HALr._TJ.;AVE JAMAICA-ARRIVE AT ASl'INWA LI,— CROSS HIE ISTHMUS OK PANAMA. We leftriynioutli in II.M.S. 'Revenge ' oii Deceml)er 4, 18G9, for passage to Colon. In addition to our own crew, tliere were on board several oincers and men for sliips on tlie West Indian station, to be disembarked at Jamaica. Madeira was to be touclied at on the way. For the first four days we encountered bad weatlier— a necessary accompaniment to leaving England at tliat time of the year. Fortunately the wind was fair, which enabled us to bear with a certain equanimity an' overcrowded ship. Xo accommodation had been pro- vided; and, in addition, the ship leaked so much that the decks were seldom dry. We Avere not sorry, there- fore, to get into milder weather, and find ourselves in smooth water and under sunny skies. Owing to our good sailing qualities several vessels were parsed, and on the morning of the 11th Porto Santo was sighted— a small island about forty miles from Madeira. "^ Approaching the latter the wind fell altogether, so B OUB JOURNAL IN THE PACIFIC Cii. I. Steam was got up, and it was 4 p.m. before we ancliored ofl'Fuiic'lial. Madeira is an island so well known and oft described, that it would almost seem superfluous to pause in oiu' voyage to enlarge upon any of its charac- teristics. And, truth to say, beyond a natural scenery and chniate unefpialled in any part of the world, there is nothing worlhy to dilate upon, unless it be vain re- grets that such a s})ot is not an l']nglish possession. To us may be fairly atti'ibuted nearly all improvements. To many is it endeared by being the last resting-place of friends and relations. Wliat sad tales are recorded by its tombstones ; how many more, nearly ended, greet you in the streets ! Madeira was taken by us in 1801, and again in 1807. We retained it in trust for the royal family of Portugal, who had emigrated to the Brazils, to whom it was re- stored in 1814. But the Portuguese, like the Spaniards, seem to have no faculty of progress or self-improve- ment. Want of cleanliness in their towns, and an obsolete architecture, find a counterpart in the man- ners and customs of the inhabitants. Under what other regime would bullock-carts exist as a mode of convey- ance, or how long be rendered a necessity by such narrow streets and an absurd manner of paving ? Leaving England and arriving here, you at once seem to belong to the past — to that primitive time be- fore civilisation had begun to make such giant strides, though apparently struggling against the encroach- ments of a later age. With this brief protest, let us pass on. Ch. I. JAMAICA 3 once bc- "icles, )acli- it us Leaving Madeira on the loth, we sliaped our course for Jamaica, and with a fair wind, at once made good progress. But tlie various circumstances under whicli we left England now began to bear fruit in sickness, and on December 27 we had the misfortune to lose one of our ofiicers from inflanunation of the lungs. This, the first death in our community, cast a gloom on all, as poor Goldney, short though his stny with us, had become universally liked, and also bade fair to be a bright ornament to the service. On January 2, 1870, we arrived off tlio Island of Montserrat, so hove to, and sent a boat on shore with letters, then proceeded on our w^ay. Tlie next morn- ing we })assed a French aviso (gunboat), apparently bound for Martini([ue, and on Friday, January 7, we sighted the Blue Mountains of Jamaica, anchoring in Port Eoyal harbour a few hours afterwards, where we found only the ' Cherub ' and ' Minstrel ' gunboats. Jamaica, since its discovery in 1494, has undergone many changes of fortune. Tremendous hurricanes sweep over the island periodically, occasioning much loss of life and property, and in 1692 an earthquake took place, in which the whole town of Port Poyal was swallowed up by the sea. To this day a buoy marks the spot where the church of the old town lies buried, and where not long ago the point of the steej)le could be seen protruding by divers at the bottom. At that time Port Boyal was the great rendezvous of the buc- caneers, the cliief of whom, Moi-gan, was governor of the island; and at the time of this fearful visitation OUR JOURNAL IN THE rACTFIO Cir. T. immonso riclics are supposcMl to have been accumu- Inted tlicro. Wc are told, in a vaj^iie sort of way, that it was a very wicked ])hiec, for whicli punisliinent came upon it in the .sluipe of nii carthquidve. In tliat case, they may expect another shortly. ^Forality is at a low standard in Tort l?oyal. I\Iarriap;e3 are seldom cele- brated, though the eliildfcMi are legion. Ignorance is at the bottom of this. They have never been taught better; there is no one to teach them. The way they live, too, assists in producing this state of afl'airs. The houses are the merest hovels, no' lit for a dog to live in, often consisting of only one room, where I have seen as many as twelve of a family all huddled to- gether. I must say, the women ai-e far sujK'rior to the men — cleaner, more honest, and most good-tem[)ered ; besides which, they are much better looking in com- parison, many having very fine figures — erect as a dart, with a long, swinging gait. But when they get old, I know no more repulsive-looking creature. The men are thievish, cowardly, and dirty, also unconquerably lazy, so that, seeing the island in its present state, and comparing it with an island like Cuba, or what Cuba was before the rebellion broke out (which had nothing to say to slavery), one is almost inclined to doubt the wisdom of the Emancipation Act thirty years ago. It is pitiable to see all these fnie plantations going to ruin from having no one to work them. The natives will do nothing as long as they can just manage to live, and the hire of a day's labour once a fortnight will enable them to do that. I am not sjieaking from hearsay, or Cn. r. TOUT ROYAL an occasional ^'lancc, but from tlic result of several visits flaring' a poriotl of four yours, one of which was ])aid shortly after the late rebellion there, since \vhi<'h I observe a great improvement in the whole island, the natives being more civil and inclined to work than formerly — good signs, wliicli lead one to hope there may be better days in store for this beautiful island; and, under a firm and wise rule, it may develoj) all its natural resources, and become again one of the most valuable of our island possessions, instead of being, as it is now, a byword of reproach. All who have been to Jamaica or any of the West Indian islands know what a ' dignity ball ' is. The name was no doubt given by the whites from the way in which the black ladies stand on their dignity, going through all the steps with the utmost precision and gravity. They are passionately fond of dancing, and very resentful at any attempt to turn it into a romp. This, howx'ver, is often done, and a general row ensues, in the course of which ladies take to abusing each other in the most undignified way, and even coming to blows. That the old custom is not yet extinct, the following account will show, of one that took j)lace during our stay, by the hand of an old Port lioyal ranger: — ' In- vitations had been issued ft)r two dignity balls on Mon- day evening, and the respective hostesses were our old friends Josephine Johnston and Betsy Paisley. Let us look in and see what is going on at the lovely Jose- phine's. " Why, I don't hear any nuisic," said my 6 OUR JOUIiNAL IN TUB VACinC Cii. I. fricMul W. ; " surely they have u fulcllo or Honictliing." However, W'ii Booii discovered that poor Jose[)irnu!'.s inusieiiins liml not. arrived, ho all " de ladies" who liad come from Kiii|^'.stt)ii were loud in their abuse of "do nasty black tiefs." ' Let me now introduce my reader to Mrs. liotsy Taisley. But first we must squeeze our way through the assembled crowd of Tort lioyal citizens; so open your eyes, but shut your nose as well as your mouth if you can, until you get somewhat accustomed to the very strong })erfunie they use here, called ' Bouquet d'Afrique I ' 'J'herc, we were tlirougli at last, thanks to the one policeman belonging to Tort lioyal ; lie is endeavouring to keep order, and a great deal of talking is going on between him and another black fellow. Let us listen to what they are saying. ' You move on dere, yu\i black nigger you,' says Mr. l\)liceman. * Who nigger i' — you nigger yourself,* retorts the other. ' Suppose you know who I am,' says Bobby. ' Yes, I know who you are, you de constable, but I claim my right to sell my ice-cream.' But poor Betsy is waiting all this time, so let us enter. Picture to yourself a whitcy-brown woman, of rather over the middle age, "who must have been at one time a very fair s[)ecimen of the ladies of Port Eoyal, in a white muslin dress ives-demlletee, and with a very gay bandana handker- chief round her head, the dress trimmed in the latest fashion, with a great deal of Grecian bend, and you see the beautiful Betsy. Dancing was going on at a great rate, and many of our brother officers might be seen Cii. I. .1 DIOyiTY BALL IS 'i^ joining' ill the gi'My w>\\t/. witli a zeal that any poor London dandy might wi-ll envy. Jii?roeze was very light. Lookin*; forward to a lontf passage, of which lliis was only tlie fore- runner of others in the future quite as tedious, to vary the monotony and to create amusement we determined to institute a debating club on board, which should hold its meetings once a week. The subject to be introduced in the form of a lecture on any topic bar three: religion, discij^line, and politics of the ])resent day-— discussions on which subjects had better be avoided. On February 23, being becalmed, we had recourse to steam. Things beijan to look serious; our stock of jH'ovisions getting low, our coal diminishing ra|)idly, and still more than two thousand miles from San Fran- cisco, as by this time wo. had given up all idea of going to the Sandwich Islands this cruise. This ship, though good in acconnnodation and ventilation, is hardl}' fitted I'or a station like the Tacific, where you are necessitated to be so nuich at sea, and must therefi)re depend chielly on your sail power, and ought to be able to take ad- vantage of every hght breeze, in which this ship does little. On February 24 we came across a very light breeze, which contiinied with occasional calms up to March 1, when \\v at last iell in with the long-hjoked and wished- for trade-wind, and began faiily to move. On March 3 we had our first meetinix of the debating- club, when a lecture was given by the Ciiaj)lain ' On the Laws of Nature as regulating tlie conchu'l of Man, independent I Cu. IT. AMUSEMENTS AT SEA 23 ted ted ■liy oes 1 ■] of Eeligioii,' whicli was delivered witli an eloquence equally his cliaraetcristic in llie pulijit. There was not nuich debating-, the sul)jeot perhaps being too deep. The following week the Admiral gave a very interesting lecture on the atmosphere, explauiing the cause of the trade-winds and the production of moisture. We continued to run up with the north- east trade till March 18, when it began to iliil us, and the next day wc arrived at tlic ' Variables,' being now 470 miles from San Francisco, with very little coal and a scarcity of provisions. For the next week we were unable to make much headway owing to calms and badling winds, so had to exercise our patience as best we could. We heard a very interesting lec- ture on Warren Hastings from F , also one from the Ca})tain on mesmerism and spiritualism, which we were all advised to have nothing to do with, ' they being agents of the devil,' who has a))parently a great deal to answer for. On March 17 we got a strong fiiir wind, and being only 100 miles olTthe day before, expected to get in that morning. But when we arrived within thirty miles of our port the wind in- creased to a gale from the northward, and having only about twenty tons of coal left, we found our- selves making very little headway, and expending that valuable article to no purpose. So we were in rather a fix, if blown away from our port with such a small stock of orovisions, not knowin made in an incredibly short time. To under- stand this fnlly it is necessary to look at the histoiy of the State of which, though Sacramento is the capital, it is the largest and most important town. California was discovered in l')-]7 by Cortex, and I Cii. IT. SAN FlLiNCISCO 25 he l|o- lis of it ! iiKiiiy surmises li;iv<; since been put forth concer'.iin!^ Aviieiiee this name was derived. As t]ie discoverers wore Spaniards, man\' favour the supj)i)>iti()U tliat it came from two words, 'caliente,' liot, and ' fornalla,' u furnace, an alhision ])roi)ahly to its climate. That certainly is unlike almost every other country, but not so much on account of its heat as that changes are less frequent, and not so stron_Ldy marked. Thus, on an average, it has been computed there are over two hundred clear days in a yetir without a cloud, and sixty of rain. Few countries can l)oast that. About lialf as nuieli rain falls in San Francisco during the year as in the eastern States, and nearly all the I'ain falls between November and June. Seldom indeed does it fall in any of the other uionths. We know dittle of California for 300 years after its discoveiy, and few records of those times luive been ])reserved. We know the aborigines of California were very numerous at that time, and for many years it was a puzzle where they originally came from. Time has elucidated the mystery. Speaking on this subject, Mr. Cronise, in his admirable work on the ' Wealth of Califoi'uia,' says, ' The Hindoo, Chinese, and Japanese annals all correspond in recording the fact that about the year 1280, Genghis Khan, a great Mongul chief, whose name was a terror in Euroj)e, at the same time invaded China with hordes of barbarians from Tartary, whom his descendants hold in subjection at the present time. Having accomplished this object, he fitted out an expedition consisting of 210,000 men i 2G OUR JOUUKAL IN THE TACIFIC Cii. II. i i li I I ill r I. m 400 sliips, under coiiiinniid of Kiiblai Klian, one of his sons, t'oi- the })urj)()se of conquering Jii[)iin. While tliis e\i)e(litiou wus on the pa.'^sage between tlie two countries a violent storm arose, wliich destroyed a great j)art of the fleet, and drove many of the vessels on the coast of America.' Grotius says, 'The Peruvians were a Chinese colony, and the Spaniards found at the entiy of the PacifiG Ocean, on coming through the Straits of Magellan, the wrecks of Chinese vessels.' ' There are proofs clear and certain that Mango Capac, founder of the Peruvian race, was the son of Kiiblai Khan, the commander of this expedition, and that the ancestors of Montezuma, who were from Assam, arrived about the same time. Every custom described by their Spanisli conquerors proves their Asiatic origin.' According to the same writer (Cronise) the aborigines of California have decreased in forty years — 1823 to 1803— from 100,hOO to 20,000. Of course it is i)er- fectly open to question these surmises. The obscurity attached to the history of California continues till about the year 1823, when it falls into the clutches of Mexico. This country retained possession for thirteen years, when it became independent. The United States took pos- session of California in 1840, and it was just at this time that gold was discovered there in abundance. Owing to this all nations flocked here in great numbers, so that in 1850 San Francisco rose up out of nothing and speedily became the fine toAvn it is now. 311 Ci\. ir. 8 AN FJiANCTSCO 27 J)iit tVom 18').') to ISOO tluTc prevailed social and ])()liti('al disorganisation. Unscrnpulous adventurers, or more correctly, rowdies, held for some time nn- dis[)uted sway, ■while universal sufTrage enabled them to use their power in a most corrupt and detrimental manner to the ])ublic welfare. Crimes were committed daily, and no life or ])roperty was secure. This state of afiliirs brought about that extraordinary combination known as the Vigilance Connnittee. This was first in- sti, ted in 1851, but only existed for a short time. In 185(5, after a l^ad state had prevailed for some time, it was brought to a climax by the shooting in open day of a popular newspaper editor who had been ])romi- nent in exposing abnses. The crime was committed by a well-known ruflian and malefactor, but who attained some position in San Francisco by a glib- ness of tongue and plenty of audacity. But when this event look place the whole popuhition rose in indiunation. The Vigilance Committee was re-or- ganised, and out of 12,000 white inhal)itants 0,000 became members. They set the law at defiance; took the murderer out of gaol and hung him ; then pro- ceeded to arrest a large number of persons who had committed crimes ; executc'd two more, and banished others. For eight months they remained masters of the city; neither the militia nor legislature could do anything. The effect was most beneficial. No ])uiiishments weie inllicted without a trial that was conducted de- liberately, and there was no haste to execute sentences. 28 0/7.' .loiriiXAL fN rill': I'Ai'IFK! Cii. II. I ■I'i I il No jiidiciiil jmuH'ss could rclciisf a in;iii wliom thoylnul .si'iitc'iiccd. 'I'liis \'iL2il;iii('i3 Commitlce condiK'tcd all its l)iisiiH'ss secrclly, and no record of ils transactions has yet been published. Il is universally l)elieved that entire control was vested in an executive board of" thirty-tliree, chosen at one of the first nieetiii;is. ]iut their names never a])])eared, though they really had ail absolute power. Whom they ordered to l)e huwj^ were lunig, to be ini[)risoiied were imprisoned ; yet there never has been any accusation of injustice or partiality, Ibr all who were punished richly de- served it. After this committee was disbanded the members allowed the usual procedure of law to take its place. Certainly it was an organisation without its like in hist" eneruies of this conmiittee will auain be roused. During the last few years the Pacific railroad has been built, and f^aii Fj'ancisco, as the terminus, re- ceived a great impetus from that undertaking. But it brought a great nuinl^er of adventurers from the eastern States, so that the labour market is over- stocked. Besides, there is a large colony of China- men who mono[)olise nearly all the labour. They are not so quick as white men, but very steady, and work at half the price. But this latter fact causes them to be viewed with great disfavour by a large I i Cii. II. SAX Fi^.lXCfSCa 2i) «0('t, cliii-dy Iri.Ii, s.) (luit iniiiiy predict a gruiul row iK'twc'cu tlicin Ijc'loru l()iiaiid years, but I hope to do so on some future visit, convinced that i'urther ex- amination would be amply re[)aid in interest and .amusement. Tlie Americans are essentially speculators. Luck is the goddess at whose shrine they worshij); its narrow |)ath has more charms than the broad road of time, and hard work ; to make fortunes by a single cast of the die, rather than accumulate riches by a life's perseverance. Hence in America the prevalence of gambling, which infests all classes, and is probably the cause of more crimes than anything else. San Francisco nuiy vie, no doubt, with any of its eastern brethren in this respect, though, from the secrecy in which these ])i-ocee(lings are carried out, it is diflicult for a stranger to find out such an evil exists. He will not, however, long remain in ignorance. The intimation generally comes about in this way, 'and I sj)eak from pei'soniil exj)erience. A well-dressed man comes up to you in tlie street, or a shi>p, and requests you will take a glass of wine with ■r 4 ■.'•I tti I* tt nun .litnuNM is the rAcirw ch. ir. II liiin ftt liis flub. Kitlicr you niv a iioviro, or niriosily j)i'oiii|)tM. Til iiiiy otlicM'couiitiy but Aincricii you would sit ouce I'ci'usi'. Ib.TC you lu'cei)!. Uv. Icmls tln' wny, tiniis ill III ;i door, up :i ftiw steps, anotlicr door with ii sinidl trap liatcli, a knock, a Ijicc; pocrs throii^ili, it is ojKMic'd; you enter, and liiul yourself iu a jfambliu^ saloon. Not a lai'ge room lull of people, but a small web with about six sj)id('rs. Your conductor |)resses you to pl:iy. You refuse, now seeinji: the dod^e. To give inspiration, he [)hic('s down a gold piece and sj)eedily wins twenty. This sliould convince you the Avhole is a i)lant, so back out as speedily as possible. In my case I am convinced this was simj)ly a den of thieves, and my conductor dejH'nded on what came out of my [)urse for a percentiigo. When I ])crsisted in going without risking a cent, he seemed in a great state of mind. Social life in Calili)rniii, and especially Sail Francisco, has many pecnliai'ities, but our stny was so short that any account could only be superficial. So therefore that tojjic must be reserved until further experience can allow any oj)iui<)n worthy of considera- tion to be expressed. For the same reason many other interesting subjects connected with the country, such as its mineral and agricul "il prospects, cannot now be entered u[)()n. Tlii"' ..tempting to gra}»[)le Avitli such important (^ o a too common erroi- in this travelling age. L atries have sulTered grievously from a too prolific pen. This must be my excuse for presenting such a meagre outline of such an interesting locality. We are now •1;. IS Cii. II. .s'.LV /'/.'. I. Vf'/.sr'n :{.{ ^'oiii^r iioidi, I,„t will return in a few j.iunllis, wIk-m 1 l'"IH' a more IchMlliy .s(„y ^ill (.nal>L' nic to say my foiicliisioiis were not too hastily arrived nt, and that onr rc-rct at leavin^r v,ill b,. felt as mndi if not more than It is now. i> u nr/; .loihWAL i\ Tin: vm'U'Ic cn. hi. criArri'R ni. ARUIVi; AT VANfOrVKl! IS(,ANI) — AUHIVAr, ill' TlH: ir.VIXfi SfilViiUON' — FKSTIVI I'IKS (IN Till': (III'.KN's HI IMIl 1> A V— K ACIIS, J!i:(i ATTA, AM) I'.AI.I. AT (iOVKIINMKNT lliUSK — A VISIT TD SAN .H'AN, XANAI.Md, AM) llli; iKAsr.u nwv.v, — ni;\v wkstmixstk — m I!Iia1!I)'s inlki — si'uui' in VANC'iH Vl.I! Isr.AM). Wk left 1*^:111 Fraiicisi'o on April 14, niul ;ii'iivc'(l in E.s(|nin)iill luirljour on llic 'J.'Jrd. Ai'tor stcaininn' iiortliwnid along the land lor two (lay,<, a norlli wind forced us out to llic weslward, and lor three days we Avenl riirtlicr away IVoni onr destination. .i>nt a shift of Avind made onr position an advantajj;eons one, and allowed us to make the entrance of the straits, Avhen we sti'anied slowly throuu;h. These straits were named after a Greek, called Juan de Fuca, who reported their existence in 1502. thouiih then universally disl)elieved. It was more than two Inmdred years later before it was entered by an ¥a\\i- lishman, named Meares, who called il Fuca Straits. Tn I 7 1*2 Vancouver visited the coast of Washington, and gave the first clear and accurate account of the Straits of F'uca and Fuget Sound. The distance to Es(|uimall harbour is about sixty miles, with magnificent scenery on both sides; l)ut it is exceedinu'ly desolate, not a habitation to be seen. It would be difiicult to lind a snuu'uer harbour than ClI III \lrrfjiiiiu:ill ; coinpli'lcly laiid-lofkcd. ^iirn>iiiic'5 uiii- >i(lc of a (liuiiniilive dockvanl, but through the trees appears a laruer building than usual, which serves as a naval hospital. At the head of a shaky pier is another building, designated the Naval Club. Though on a small scMilc, it supplies a want which was long feh. Altogether, there is a chaiming nlximhni about this sjx)! ; a short ])lunge into the dense forest, and all signs of civilisation cease — birds and insects are your sole conij)anions. Victoria, the ca})ital, is some three miles oil", but has little imposing about it. [t bade fair to l)econie a thriving colony in 1858, when there was sut'h a rush there in consefiuence of the gold discoveries. hut it rapidly subsided, and the leaction was most injurious. Neai'lv all left who could ; and since that time Van- couvei' Island has had to struggle onwards unassisted from without, having to contend against iiiLiantic obstacles in the natural features of its country. An immen-e ([uantity of land is uncleared and uncultivated. Labour is most expensive. The only remedy aj)j)ears to be a good Government scheme of immigration, that the resources of the country nuiy be o[)eiie(l up. The innnigrants themselves should be assisted with grants of land, and immunity for some time from taxation. The great dilliculty is in clearing tlu' land, mi dense is the tind)er and undergrowth. The 'Flying ►Squadron' had been expected >onie lime, and arrixed on ]\Iay 1 •">. from .lapaii. There X) 2 so nl:U .KHHiNAL IN Till': I'.K'lFli' ru. 111. ,-, I were six .slii[)s, ' Liverpool " (lliiusliij) of Admiral lIoi'ii[»y), ' riia'bc,' ' Lille;}',' ' Kiulyinioii,' 'Scylhi,' {iiid ' I'etirl.' All Avert' iintler sail, tlie 'Scvlla' leading. Tlioy arrivt'd in time to assist in tlie festivities on the Ciueens birtlulay — a threat da}' in all onr colonies, llei'c it is the occasion of a u;eneral holiday and horse- laciuu". 'i'he racecourse al Ijeacon Ilill, near Victoria, over- looks the sirails, the 8now-cap[)ed mountains sliowing out clear and distinct on the other side. To tliis s[)ot, on May 24, could be seen all descriptions of persons and veliicles wendini,' thei" way. Colonists of all descrip- tions, farmers from distant secluded spots ; the swarthy Lidian, wra[)ped in liis led blanket, not a few already reeling" from the elH-cts of lire-water; and last, tliougli not least, 'Jack,' with shoes in his hand and ])ipe in his mouth. JV'sides all these, a fair s])rinkling of eques- trians, of both sexes, all cheerful and bent on merri- ment ; no ci'ies of ' five to two bar one.' Tiiis is a lioliday to all, where l)usiness enters not. The chief event of the day to the naval world was the navy Hat race, for which seven entered; our ship l)eing represented by two. The jockeys' costumes caused some amusciment, but, on the whole, they were very credital^le. The signal was given, and all got olF well together. As they ap[)roached the wiiming-|)ost the excitement equalled a Derby Day, and we had the gratificiition of seeing our two representatives come in hrst and second, the remauidei nowlieic. There was a navv huiresent memoiy. The m '.\H nil! .Inlh'SA!, I .\ mi'! I'M 'I I'll Cii. III. I'i ' I' '.'il M> 1 k. liicc-' well' iiiiiiiy :iii(l viirit'd. Xciirly fVcry slii[) (•liiiiii('(| OIK", if not inoi'c piizos, Oui's, liowcvci", claiiiH'd lir: t pljici; in nunihcr, iind gross iinioniit of money Viiluc. rcrlia])s tlic most amusing race was tiiat ot"eo|)|)er punts, |)ropelle(l by shovels ; the various on^ws apparently had endeavouied to outvie eaeli (tiller in lantastir garb, with blaekened faces. From greater experieni'c of this spet'ies of boat, our j)Uiits- nieii nuist have won; l)ut, unfortunately, they allow'd tliems<'lves to become a liille o\'ereome, so receivml anything but a [)rize. From this I'egattii arose a match, which created great interest in the two fleets. It\vas a race between our bai'ge and that belonging to the ' f/iverpool,' flag- ship of the Flying Stpiadroii. The couise was about two miles and a lialf, and provi'd a most hollow all'air. ( )iir boat, after the first mile, drew well alu'ad, and, increasing her lead at every stroke, finally won with ease. Our first ciicket matcl at Vancouver was i)la3'ed against the ' Charybdis,' but we were beaten by nine wickets. Nothing daunted, after a little ])ractic,e, we essayed again, and this time were succes.sful, winning by ton wickets. These matches were played at Colwood, about half- an-hour's walk through the woods, on the other side of the luirbour. The ground is small, but i)leasantly situated in an exceedingly picturesque spot. 'J'wo other matches were played agtiinst the ' f^cylla,' ' liingdove," • Spanowhawk." and * ])oxer." combine(l. J!!! Cm Mi. KSijIlMAI.r :':• y \r III the liist, we won by Iniii' wickots, tiiid j)l;i\i'(l willi iiiiic iiicii ; ill the second, we won l)y twenty-tour runs. Vicloiia hoasts a very j^'ood eleven, and our last match was aiiiiinst tlieiii ; hut tliev urovinl too stioiiL:', and bi-at us by ten wickets. The coppei' of the ' Zealous ' haviiiLi become some- wlitit Ibul. il was determined to place her in llic stream of fresh water al the luoiilh of tlu- i-'raser Wiver, to see what eflect it would have. It was also con- sidered a good o])portunity to visit the island of ."^an Juan. We left Esquimult on June 20. on a Inii^ht and clear day. On the ri^u'ht were the snowy jx'aks of the Washington Territory mountains, standing oii! dis- tinctly against the dee[)-blue sky glittering in the sun; on the left lay Victoria, picturesquely scattered over a plateau surrounded by the fir-covered hills. A little further on we opened the llaro Channel, studded with many wooded islets. In the east rose, in majestic grandeur, ]\[ount 15aker, clothed in brilliant white ; while, towering over the i)hnns beneath, far distant in the south-east, might be seen the summit of ]\rount Eenier, 140 miles ofT. As whow 1 hem- selves, and, on Hearing it, the star-s])angled banner was Hung out to the breeze. lloundilm' the south-east end of >Saii Juan we passed between it and Lo[)ez Island, anchoring at ') I'.m. in a (Mpacious bay, oj)posite the landing-j)lace loading to the American camp. |.u O/;/.' JoUh'SAL IS THE I'AOliU Cii. III. i A few words luji'L' {il)f)iit Hnn Jiiiiii, .'iiid tlu; ])('culi!ir ('ircuinstanct's under wliicli it is inluihitcd, iimy, pcr- liiii)s, interest tliose who do not eonipreliend tlie letison of its lioldini,' two standing garrisons, or on wliat •^rounds it is claimed l)y botli nations. In ISK) the hounthiry between tlie British possi's- sions and tlie United States west of tlie Kocky Moun- tains was determined, and the Island of San Juan was sni)[)os('d to belong to Great Hritain, the wording of tlu! treaty being as follows: — 'From the point in the foi'ty-ninth [)arallel of north latitude where the boun- dary laid down in existing treaties and conventions between Great ]5ritain and the United States termi- nates, the line of l)oundary shall 1)e continued west- ward along the said forty-ninth parallel of north lati- tude to the middle of the channel which separates the (Continent from Vancouver Island, and thence southerly through the middle of the said channel and of Fuca's Straits to the Pacific Ocean.' There is not the slightest doubt that the channel here alluded to was Rosario Chaimel, the only one then in use or supposed to be navigable. Subsequently the Anu'ricau Govermnent claimed the 'Canal de Ifaro' as the channel meant, and assumed that San rhian belonged to the United States. Whilst the dis- puted point was still under discussion by the two Governments, a certain General Harney, of thi' United Slates ai'mv, in 1^50 thouuht he would ' cut the Gor- dian knot,' and landed a military force and battery on the -outli point of the island, ostensibly to protect III. Cii. III. SAN .WAS rsr.ASh n a s ly lo illl is- \V(» ,L'(1 )r- •ct Aincrican citizuiis IVom tliu (k'|)n'(liiti(>iis of llu' Tiidians, l)iit ill reality to ()l)taiii a footing in tlio island. The Unitod States Goveriinicnt [)rc'U'iidc'd to disav(»\v llic !i('t, hut would not direct the withdrawal of the tr(»o|)s, defcnniiied, if possihlo, to get ])ossessioii of the i>liind in consequence of its strategical importance as com- inaiidinjr our route to the Fraser Kiver and the imilli. How it ^vill eventually he settU'\i'r niic liuiidicd In liis ()\sii jiiiii ill one year. v.. . -^ -mJ*- . '! il 1 1; ii y; •.»-■.-•'"; AMIIiKAS < \M1'. Allcr I't'iiiniiiiu on board we wciiilicil and pi'ofccdcd tlii'oiiuli till' middle cliaiiiiel between San -liian, Lttpe/. and Sliou Inlands to llie nnrih ;iiieli(>raL;c. This cliaiinel i< nannw in soine |>Iai'e<. wiili one or two dan«j'erou> rocks; the eiirrent also is rai)id. hut the channel i> perfectly >al'c Ibr a >«Ieanier. The scenery of I lie^e i-^laniU has nincli sameness in extensive Ibrcvts, w il h -mail -tretches of prairie lan I.V .//M.V ISLAM) Vil ^Io|»t' (tj'llii' liill >iirr(Miii(l('(l l)y oiinlcn^. 'I'lu' ('oiiiiiwiihI ;illt's liuii-c is ;il)()ilt \\\n lllllllil)l(' r»-(»iiiTi' I'lir tiinln'r mimI I'licl. ■-»-«»f ffr^ ", y^*^ ■Kni'll V VI.ISI 11 Mil; \. k>. in |h1, lio ho 'I'lic men iippeared pcrtccily (•iiiilniicd mid li:i|)|»y ill lliis sct-liide(l >|>(>1. ;ilid ;lllli()liuli llieir ilUiil'ters iire ii;ir(llv eillhll to il u'oiid l);il Tiicl-;. tlie\' :ile I'tlillv coin- lurlahle. Mnci'v year iiiiproM'iiu'iit- are hciii'j' made. Alreadv llie\' liaxc a readiiiu'-i'<»i)m, liltraiv, ;md reerea- liiiii hall. Fruit and \'e!jei;d)le> theyii'i'ow there, and other ai'tiele^ are >eiit it\ry lVi»iii l'>(|iiimali f>\]r{' a lllolltll. Ill e.»iii|)('iilmieii( lhe\' ha\e to w 44 OUIt JOVUSM. IN Till': I'.K'irK Cii, IK, m imdcrjio I)(>fli olliccrs mikI iiumi roccivc; doiihli' piiy, Iml nolle of the men linvc tlu'lr wives willi lliein. Tliei'e is easy ('((nnnnnifution in line weailier between this isjjind iiM(l Vancouver, and the teh'<^'rii|)h wire to San Francisco and Europe passes throu},jh the camp. Leavin;^ Sun Juan we proceeded in the direction ol" Xanainio. Steannn )rmci pally familie> A St mniers I, in( I tl leu" qxMidiary magi>^trate watciies over this community. This gentleman informed us that the iish- ing was magniliceiit, but at this time, owing to snow water being on the river, the trout were not running. In fact, this is the only d(>ad season of the year. Eailv on th(^ nioi'niiig of the 'iOth we weighed for i f\ Cii 11 . .v/;ii' \\'i:sr}[i\sri':i: \r, the I'ViiMT Uivii', wliicli \Viis n-iiflicd jilnmt II A.M., and iuicln)ri'(l near tlu; li^lit vossrl at tlu; moulli. Tliirs v'wvv is llii; lar;^'i'st in liriti.sli Culmnl>ia, takiiijr its I'iMi! ill tlu.' Kdcky iMoiiiitaiiis, and havin|4 a course of more than oij^Iit linndnd miles. It is iij.vi;.'al)lr tor strainers of considoiahlc hui'di'ii n[) to Tian|_d('V, I'oily- tluvi! mill's from its mouth. Above that — to Valr, forty-two miles beyond — steamers can ply, but of li;ihl diau^ht, with j)oweii"ul eni^ines, and |)ro[)('lli'd by a stern wheel. I)oy»)nd Vale the river bi^eomes loo rapid lor navif/atioii. The Fraser River is tln' hij^di road to the {^old mines, and its tributaries are [)athways branchin;^' oil' ri^dit and lei't. A ))arty of ollicers, including the wiitei', embarkt-d in the gunboat ' Hoxcr,' to go to New Westminster, twenty-eight miles up the river. The navigation of this })art is dillicult, on account of numerous .shoals and constantly sliifting sand.s, so that buo}'^ sui)posed to mark the chaimel camiot be relied on. They arc also frecjuently washed away. ll.M.^. ' Tiibune ' got agroimd here, and was nearly lost, having laid Ibi- .several weeks in her tt'uacious bed. We were fortunate, and threaded our way in safety with a rising tide. A largi' tract of land stretches along the banks of the river, upon which grazi; large heids of cattle. As numerous swamps and creeks in- tersect these plains, glorious wild-fowl shooting can be obtained in autunm and winter. The strcjim of the Fra.ser al this .season, when swollen by the melting snow, runs at the rate of four to >i.\ knot> an hour. k; nil,' .ii(l walrr. Ahoiil >i.\ mile-' Ix-lou N\w W'csi- iiiiiistt'i' low past lire liiiid is succeeded hy dense pine woods. TIic'ii tlie (own nppeais in siiilil. It lies on the north bank, and has rather an inijjosinu' ajipear- ance, with its lariic warehouses, cathedral, and other ])laces of worshij). liilil Vancouver Island and ihili-^h Columbia wei'e uiiitt-d it was the seat of L^oxcrnnient, which was then transferred to \'ictoria. liandinu'. we found but Iwd strcci-. runniuL!" pai'alK'l to the river; but althoULiii the town was laid out on a ixrand scale when the country uave uTcat |)roniisi' — thoULfh il boasts a cathedral, public library, ollices, warehouses, and churches of various denoiniuatioirs — these expectations lia\i' nol yet been realiseil. and ^ri'ass Lii'owiuL^ luxuriantly in the >li'eets is a more truthful index to il>^ pi'o>perity. When the i^'old tide ceased lo llow. New \\'estiiiin->tt'i', like N'icloria. re- ceived a sei'ioiiv check. I'Voui which it has hai'dlv \'et recovered. 'I'he ( ioveruor"s hou>e, which we \isited, is about a mile and a half from the town. It is a capacious, com- fortable buildiiiLi', with extensive fruit and llower uar- deus, and surrounded by maunificent cedar and maple trees. Pi-ej)aratious were beiuL!ina(h' for the (ioxcrnors rece[)tiou, who had jione to t^an l-VaiKasco lo be mariied. At )) I'.M next day we end)arked anfain, and steanuMJ down to th(> ship a uood deal faster than we came up. A good look out is ri'(iuii"ed to be kej)t f(»r snairs, which. |)oiutinL;' up stivtim, are danu'erou> to run auainsl. I Cii III. /;/■ /.'AM /.'/'•> iMJrr r, It :i i'(tiii- Liar- |;l|)K' lic.l. jIU'il liil). ■nil f The Fi'iiscr \{'\\vv is cclclinitrd for il> >lurL'r(tii aiid .silnioii, iiiid many \v\\h'-- oi" Indians olitain tlu'ir winter sn|)j)ly '•' f'»'>'l iVoiu this ^ouicc 'I'licrc is also a. de- licious little lisli called tlu' " eulacliiii," or 'caiulle lisli.' cautilit on this coa>t. It is about the size of a •^laelt. and so fal as hai'dlv t<> I'ear ll•vinL^ 'Ihe lndian«< use thcni tor candles (tVtvni whenci' its name) liy simj)Iy ruiminu' a wick thi'ou,Ldi. From them oil of a \ery line (luality is obtained, saitl to be superior to coddi\er oil. ISturu'cou ai'e most ninnerou< both on the coa>t and in the I'ivei'. 'Jdiey ascend to an incfediUle distance. ovefcomiuLi" dinicultie-< wlTn-h will bailie sdnion. Their habits ait' littK' known. ;!■< they seem to li\e ('({ually well in lVe>h and ^alt \\atcf. 'I'lieir roe Inr- ni>lies the d(diciou> eaviaie so celebrated in K'M-<>ia ; the (|iiantity of re\eral canoes at the i-ntraiiei^ ])ur- suiuLi' this mode ol' li^hinu". A -peai' se\cn or eiLihl feet loiiLi; is used, with a baibed bone head. .\ loii"'- liiu? i-' attached and coiled down carel'ully in the canoe, < )ue Indian jiaddles. wliiK- the other draL:-- the poim of his >|)ear uiji'liiht aloiiLi' the >urt'aee ot" the mud. ]»v practice he knows the touch oj' a >lurLifou. ankill i> re({U!red to prexcut tlu' IVail canoe bein_L;" upset by a laiLi't' li.'>h. Canoes hunt in couples, and assi«torvof jlriii-h rohimb' 4H n/7/ .11 UK SAL IN Till': I'M'irin Cv 111. I Tliu Admiral l)cin<^f anxious to see Biirrard's Inlet, wliicli is a few miles to tlie north-west, a l)arty of odi- rers proceeded there in the ' IJoxer.' The entrance is through a narrow i)assa;^'e, at low water not above u cable wide, but wilh a depth sullicient for any sized vessel, Passinn this naiTow, the inlet expands inlo a line harbour, where are two Inie saw-mills, which ex- port a great (|uantity of timber. Passing a second narrow four miles highci- u\). tlie inlet is di\ided into I wo branches. The northern one runs for about ten miles, with an average width of one mile, into the very iiearl of tiie mountains. Its scenery is grand, but it is useless as ji harbour, having a too deep and irregular bottom. The other fork runs about three miles to the south-east, rather more than half a mile broad, and forms a line harbour called Port Moody, with an average depth of six to seven fathoms. Magnificent tnnber abounds ni the vicmity. t^ome day the stillness of the scene will be l)roken by the bustle of connnerce. For here, in all proba- bility, will be the terminus of the great projected railway from Canada. It has all the capacity and convenienc< necessary for a connnercial port — space, depth of water, a considerable rise and fall of tide for forming docks and basins, with proximity to the coal mines ol' N uiaimo. Tl le lollownig mornmg, m com|)any wi th tl le • Hoxer," we returned to l">r]uimalt, Avhcre, >hortly after, the 'Chanticleer' arrived from Callao. g Vancouver, I will attempt to give P.ei; m ore icavm Cn. TTT. VANCOUVER TSUNJ) 4U )kcn r(>l)a- wjiy t'lH'f 1 of tlie Di'tly uivc i 1 ^ some description of tlu; sliootiiig and fisliing that can be t)l)taiiied witliout diiUculty ; but as it was April, and consequently not the shooting season, more de- tailed re-marks on that subject must be left for another visit. Deer of more than one kind abound in Van- couver Island. The noble Wapiti, or Elk, far sur- passing in size the monarch of our Scotcii glens, and others chussed under the liead of black-tailed deer. The former has retreated before civilisation, but the latter are to be found in the neighbourhood of Esqui- malt. ]5oth aie in best condition late in autunm. There are also bears, ])anthers, and wishes, for tluwo who despise more ignoble g.ame. The feathered game consists of the blue, willow or rulllcd grouse, and quail. The blue grouse is about the size and resembles in appearance the grey lu'U. The rullled grouse is smaller, and a bird of beautiful plumage. These inhabit the woods, and when llusheil, luTch on the branches of trees, aflbrding but ])oor sport. The male rullled grouse gives out a peculiar druunning sound, which may 1)C heard at a I('iisiii«jf rocollt'clion of Sail Francisco. This ball accordiiiffly cainc ofF the evcnin^^ before our dopar- tiire, at the Pacific Hall, a .spacious building, well adapted for the purpose. All the arraii«feinents were made with that coiMplcteiiess and, when anything is taken in hand, that indiderence to expense lU'culiarly u cliaracteiistic of the American nation. We had iSUpplied a number of (lags for decorating, whi(;li, when well arranged, have always a very handsome elfeet. The band was almost hidden in a beautiful arlxnir, formed with lofty plants and shrubs, covered with blossoms of every hue and fragrance. Another band was ill a gallery above to discuss choice selections in the interval of tlie dances. Alas ! now, liow can I describe the many fairy forms that keep Hitting across my view ? Am I to take a page out of the ' Chronicle,' and tell you how that Mrs. was dressed in a iiiagnificent blue-silk dress, with sweeping train, low neck, and hair^i la ijrecque ; or, how that the graceful iigure of Miss was shown to great advantage in a white moire antpjui'y panier overskiit, rut in points, trimmed with roses, hair tastefully arranged ideration. Again, C,2 nun JOunKAL tn tfe vacivw vw. iv. ill pliioinjT fowor social hjirriern between the youii|_' (»r both sexes ji way is ojK'iii'd to many friendships, whieli may, or may not, lea*! to a closer tic;. Bnt tcncinj^' a yoimosition, thougli nowhere in America are all other considerations scorned. Many of tlie men of California, who came there at one time poor and friendless, now hardly know liow ri<;li they are. It is essentially a inoney-making coun- try, wliilst for reckless speculation Californians are pre-eminent, whether it be in mines, lands, or stock. They seem to live in an atmosj)here of excitement, ever engrossed in business; one day poor, another day rich— h)sing everything, or making a fortune ; but ecjually ready to stand drinks all round. For generosity they have no equals. The last half dollar will be expended on a passing acquaintance, in whom it would be considered a great insult to refuse a Cii. IV. SAN VtiANCIHVO C:i drink, or even to liiiit at paying'. lUit rsiroly is a man nduccd to sucli a low (1)1). Money is pl(!ntiliil in San Fnimisco. Kven the conductor of a .street car receives ten shillings a day; likewise he who keeps the streets cKtan. Waws are liiuli ; but livinij, and all artutles of lence lately expensive. A stron*^ es thr()U{.^hout the community. A .shopman will when liia work is over meet you on j)erfe('tly equal terms, though never oflen.sive like the British 'Arry.' That type is never met with in Ame- rica. His shop demeanour, too, is veiy diflerent; no l)owin*,f and scrapinir, washin<^' with invisible soap, which is carried to such a painful extreme in En;,dand. In America the extreme of independence is perhii|)s run into, but of the two I prefer it. Always respcur lo join. To lead tlii.^ lif(! of cxcitcmoMt stiimilatits aro n?- (|uir(Ml. As a riilo, I should not ihink Calironiiaus arc lou<;-hv('(l ; old men aro seldoni socn. "lis the \y,\vv. that kills, l)ii(- it has jjrcat fascinations, and few caif ahout lojivinj,' the country for jfood ; while many who left have relumed, un;d)le to live without that excite- uuMit which pervades the alniosj)liere and iniprcjiuates the whole vital fiainework. California has been celebrated for its street (bids, and though now nothing like the number they used to be, they are not uneommon. Whafi ver was tlu; causi; then, now 1 think they are simi)ly the ellects of ruf- fianism and rowdyism. This ])art neci'ssarily is a refiiLfc for many criminals who mi;ihf advantaj/cously be hiMiL', but here they llouri>h uiidisluibed. No law |)reveuts a man from carrying a n'volver ; in liict, everyone does in self-defence, conse(|uently theii' are a ifreat number ol' homicides. Two men are drinkin-jf toL'ether, and have some words. They immediately draw their wea|)ons and exchange shots. One ])ro- bablv is kilh'd. Tf without pistols, they nirrei' to «ro home and get them, then shoot tol,so generously told him to get it, and he would shoot him the first tiiiui he saw him again. The other man took his ad- vice and goi hi> pistol. Then lu' thought the bot f 1 I: Cii. IV. SAN FliASVISCV lO law fact. It' !ir«' iiikiiMjf iatcly pro- \ shoot the otlicr man brloiv lie saw liim. Accordinuly lie stalioiii'd liiinscll" in a doorway. As liis IVicnd pas^id lie shot him dealm; the strocts wlu-n ihoc things take j)lac»'. I'wi) or tincL' >hols arc heard in rapid succession. Tmm(.'thatrly cvciylxKly in fhr .>tirctM get in tliu dooiways, a> if a shuwer of rain hud just comc' on. Not a soul is lo he x-cn. Alter waiting a t'ew minutes, ;ind all i> (juiel, they emerge, and walk on as if nothing had liiippened. Huch ar(! a few of the |)has<'> of life in San Francisc(.>. At ;i future time T may add a few agricultural dt'tails about ('alildruia ; so for tiie present will hid adii-u to »Sin Francisco, the |);iin of j)arling tL'mi)cri'l r.r, nui{ .KmiiSM. IN Till': I'.wiiU' vw \ . ■^\ ,t CIIAPTKH V 'lit I \ ,1i "AM. F!U)M HAN KRANCIsco KoK PAN AM A — AMl'sEMKNTS ON nOARI) AT sr.A — AUIUVK AT PANAMA — |{IUT AT I A 110(1 A- IIA I.I- TO Mli. tllAHI.KS llRIftllT— lilHISTKNINCl rtN lUiAUD — I.KAVK PANAMA AND AIUIIVR AT PAYTA — A TRIP To THK ItlVKIt fllIRA A^TKR A I.MOATORH— HA 1 1, KKOM PWTA AND AKIMVK Al loMt. St'pfi'mht'r 28. — It woiiKl he (lilliciill to find ii more iiiiiiit«'ro.stiii;i |)assa<^L', ov iiiore tcdimis, lliiiii tliiit bf- twecn San Francisco and I'anunia. Well may this he called tiic ' desiTtod occ ui. T o si'c a >hi|) IS as nuicn a Mctvt'lly as it is to sec land. Weeks even (»rten j)ass l>v without a liird aitpcarinLf, siK^li seenis to he the in- (•((iiality lu'twcen s|)a(!t' iuid lil'c in this sea, while our knowledge of the lishes in it docs not l:o nuich bi'yoiid sharks and j)orj)oist's. In this direction there is ii line Held for e.xploi'alion, to icveal some of the mysteries of the dee]), and settle many undecided jjoiuts concerning' the numerous islands which dot its vast surface. Talk ing of i>lands, thei'e are si-veral spots in this ocean (as indeed then' are in the others) marked thus ? meaning that it is (loul)tl'ul whether they exist or not, though icpoited at some time or olhci- hy a vessel as an island or rock. It would he an c.\ci'llcnt mission for aiiv lor M|) to visit all these in sn(M'i'ssioii. and determine onci' II whether they exist ov not. iia>t niuht wc passed ovci' one of llic^c -pots marked douhlful on the (11. V .17' NAM cliMrt, l)iif .«^M\v imtliiiiL' •>!' it. It !•< <;eiuMiilly t'oiisidiTcil siift'sl In sk'cr >lrai}jlil. tor llioso spots, as ships liavc seart'lu'd fortlu'in in the position assiirniMl witlioiil Iimv- 1) al)l(' to find I •th ifti m<» hcon able toliud anyniin^' ; so, it tlicy exist, save in fill' iniM^inafion, will most probably Ih' aiiywhor*' but ou the spot nuirked. 'Llicre are many way.s of account- ing for these, siuh as ships being out of their reckon- ing. Mild Importing other islands as new «liseoveiit's. \(\ Sinec leaving S:iii l''raiieiseo !i fortnight ago we li;ive had very light winds, and made little j)rogr«'ss. To riilieve the nioiiotuny, we rt'euininenrfd onr Icctiiri's by hearing an exeelleiit one fioin (' on Life .\>siii-- aiifc. Ily it we wm* led t(» eonelndc that Assurance Coiiipanies are charitable institutions fonnesii)g away time, and being some \aiiaiii»H to daily sea routine. This morning we sighted ( 'larion island, one of ilu' li'evilhi Gigedo group oil' the entrance of the ( 'aliforniaii (iiilf. It has a repiitalioii for an abiiiitlaiice ol" sharks and sea-birds. I-'roin its appearance and |>eciiliarity of formation it is evidently vol(;anic, |)resenting a x-ries of rugged ping Clarion inland we begin r.M fU'i: .hiri:\ \i. i\ rin: r \fini Cm v. ,--s '.1 i "I 'I • 111 ;i|i|»r(i;irli lli:it i'i';iiuii wild"*' ("ilins iirc siid iilu;iy?> l<» cxi-l. iiiid we wcic In Jtjiss I lilnlli/Il Jlln>l|| llif lilOMil ot |);iil. Ti> .nIil l<» lilt' winter ol'oiif (liscoiitfiil, it wms llic niinv M'Msoii. Till' showers iiic h> lu-avv, rvory ii|K'rliiri' must lu' closi'il. ;iiii" l>ri':ilii. N'cvcrtJK'lcys, tlk'iv was a good alti'iKlaiu'c lo lii-ar a li'i'lurc <»ii Ciiarli's 1. iVmn W — ; and tlit^ r«»ll a slioiL dislanee from the main land III' Central Anieiiea ; and tlii> m(>rnin|j[ |)a^sed I'oinI iMaiiata, so lliat shall arrive at Tanama lo- inorrow. (trto/>i'r2\. — Arrived al Panama on (he I'.'tli, wliieli |ilaee we I'nun;! I'on-ed i»nl oj" its normal >lale of las>i Inde iiv tla' eominL'" ol Sir Charles I.ri'jht to lav a leleura|»h wire hetweeu A>|»inwall and Jamaica. 'I'o t elehrale tlii> event, a ball had hecii |)lamied, m) onr ani\al was o|>])(trlnne. \\'land of 'raltoua on the 'Jl'iid in oi'der to eoal. Yesterday tlii^ ^pol was the »eene of a eoniliat »/ tuiitranri' between a])ont iirty oi' our men uu liberty and the inhiibitants. As in .ill like eiises, it is dijlirnll In lind nut wlm initialed tin- uinMiiieiil ImMIi |tartii's weie probably to blame. 'I'hey. Inr >ellin_u" sueh a \illanous eompoiind whieli they call litjuoisbut which is ivally poison; and Jack for beiuiu' snuiewhat inclined In dnmineer (»\'er and de spise all those who mic not as white in cnlniu' as him- seir. .\nyhow. a inw Innk place, slicks and stom-s were Ircely \\i^<'^\. and several nj" nur men canu' on board rn V. /'.IV I 1/ I <'■',» liihlly liiirl. Dill llic iiiilni'tiiiiiili' |iurl, iiixl whai piii :i serious aspt'cl mi ulmi u:i-< tillici-uiM' r;illifr:i Iiulirrdiis iidiiii', was lliat llic ' Alcalde, ' nr h.-ad man n\' ilie island, came U) sli»|» llie fi«,diliii;.', hiil i^'eliinii between llie parties, \va> >tru(i< <>n the luad hy a >tnnc, and die(| (V'ini ('((Meiission <»!" (lie l»rain a Irw liowrs altei'- wai'ds. lu'iiii^ an oHieial, llierv was, (»t' course, some noise about it ; anil tlie (iovernor ol' Panama eame over, and with the Ailiniral and our ('(mi^uI proei'edi.'tl to invesli|iate the matter. Tin ic wa.s a goub>eription amoiijjst the ollif»iv and men. and presenli'd the widow (?) with ')U/., wiiiidi apparently sali.>lied all |)arti«'S. 'I'he iuauLi,urati»»n ol" Iayiii;i tlie shore end ol" the eable came ofl' at A-|)inwall, when a siatiie of Coluni bu-^ was un\i'iK(l. 'I'he ball canieoU'lhe sami' e\enin;j, of which tlif lollowiim account is i/iNcn bv an e\i;- witness :- •]n cnn>ideratii»n of the M-rvice^ I'cndercci by Sir Charles lliaiiht in >U|)crinicndinL; the layin.ii "t a tfle }j[rapli-('al)le Int.ucen Ci'iilral America and ,lamaic;i. the li-ading inhabitants of Tanania [)icit»u-« eviait. The •"/ealnu-^" arrivin::: oppoitmiely, invitations wen- -i-nt lo her oHicei-«. wiih a rcfpie-t for the u-^e of mu band ^n the •>( cation, which wa- re.MJilv 'iranied. tiir I'rcsidcnl, liad linu' to look ahoni and survey the sct-nc. Tlu" innin was lar^ic and wi-IMit, with scats all ronnti, whilst I he hand playi-d oulsidi" on ihc N('ranuMic! 'The danciiiji' went on with j/reat spirit until an early hour, hroken only hy an excelh-nt supper. Our hand, will) iheii" W(atliy master, e.\ertetL'iiiiiLr <»ii hoiinl, tullowfd niter llic ccrcmttiiv Ity a daiuH' — the ri-iisoii of llic fnniicr lu'in;/ tlial tlicrr wan III) rri)t('st;iMt minister then at pMiiaina. A >teainer biouiihl the party, eoiisistiii;.' of aixajt lilty hidies and /■ 'J o 7 M 1.0 I.I IIIM IIIIM IP 2 !i° mil 2.0 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 ^ 6" ► Photographic Sciences Corporation V 4 V '^ <^> ^ o ^ %^ t^ % ^^' m ■i.^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 W #d Q>. k K\ o TTT (C 72 OUR JOURNAL IN THE rACIFIC Cii. Y. t; I ii 111 I ^1 4 ill I ! i ii For tlie last week we liave been steaming slowly along the land, having a good view of the coast of Ecuador. The scenery here is certainly fine, fj'oni the dense masses of foliage and plants of all descriptions growing most luxurionsly in a wild state. We also passed the Esmeralda Eiyer, considered at one time a great field for emeralds and diamonds, but which idea has long since been given up. Not that, })robably, pre- cious stones are not here, for we find in this continei^t, wlierever civilisatioji has penetrated, hidden treasures are revealed, but because the climate and desolation are such that it would daunt the greatest energy. Only one settlement did we pass the whole way down, and that was a Dutch village. Yesterday afternoon we arrived at Payta, a small town in the northern part of Peru, but deriving some importance from being a call- ing place for mail-steamers, and the seaport town of Piura, about forty miles inland. There is nothing pic- turesque about tlie appearance of Payta ; sand only is to be seen on approaching, and its sole recommendation is a good harbour. We observed, on entering, two or three large mer- chant ships,* full of coolies from Macao, who were being landed on rafts. They will be taken down to Caliao, and there most likely sold. This civilised slave-trade is very paying, but, to our ideas, worse than wliat we have expended so many valuable lives to put down on the coast of Africa. These unfortiuiate ])eople, if not forcibly kidnapped, are morally so ; entrapped by fair but false [)romises — generally when ujider the influence Ch. V. rAYTA 73 of opium — find believe, tlioiigli tliey don't know wliero tliey are going to, tluit it is gold-digging, or sonic other self-enriching process, but from which celestial dream they are speedily awakened. Paying a visit to the shore, I passed by the temporary quarters of these deluded wretches. From such a number haviuii been crowded on board ship, many had lost the use of their Hmbs, while others appeared in a dying state from insuflicient nourishment. At the distribution of a few cigars amongst the worst cases, great surprise and gratitude were manifested by signs, lifting their hands to heaven in a most significant and pitiful manner. Payta, like most Peruvian towns, is dirty. The houses are built chiefly of bamboo and mud, the streets narrow, and the whole appearance of the town un- interesting in the extreme. Such was not the case in time gone by ; for it is but 1 30 years ago since Lord Anson, when on his famous voyage round the world, hearing of the riches stored up in Payta, landed a party of men, sacked and burnt the place, sparing only two churches, the reuiains of which stand now— at least, the outer walls. Inside can be seen traces of the conflagration in the blackened remnants of orna- ment, but which are enougii to sliow that the tale of riches is not untrue. Tliere is a small river, about twenty miles from here, abounding with alligators, and having otlier kind of shooting round about. I subjoin a narrative of the adventures of three, who were ambitious of obtaining a skin of that scaly monster of tr()[)ic;il rivers. 'N i?r il Pt.i ■1 : I r 1 i r *i f : 1 mI t ;'; : i ' P h 1; ,| ii 1 i ; 74 OUR ^JOURNAL IN THE PACIFIC Ch. V. Alligators ! By Jovo, the very idea of seeing some, to say nothing of having a shot at them, was, indeed, a treat, after having been peinied up on board ship for several weeks ; so, hearing of the good sport to be liad at the lliver Chira, twenty miles from Payta, a worthy trio determined to pay it a visit, m defiance of the iniiny discomforts said to accompany such undertakings. Accordingly, having procured the ne- cessary leave, we went on shore, with only rugs, guns, and ammunition, taking no thought for the morrow, as is generally the case with sailors on a cruise. How- ever, fortune ftxvoured us — that sweet little cherub, who sits up aloft, did not on this occasion forget to look after the wants of * poor Jack.' With some difficulty we procured three horses, and, once fairly mounted, were not long in getting well clear of the town, following the direction given us, to keep along the beach for about ten miles, till we came to an Indian village. The ride was not an unpleasant one — along a narrow path, overhung by lofty perpendicular clifTs of sandstone, with here and there a large boulder ready to free itself from mother earth, showing un- mistakable signs of frequent landslips. By letting our little steeds choose their own pace — a quick, shuffling kind of amble — we reached the village in less than two hours. Dismounting at the house of the Alcalde to refresh both man and beast, we enquired the way to the establishment of a certain Senor Cap-i-tan Gale, an Englishman who had settled on the banks of the river, and to whom we had been recommended to go. Ch. V. PAYTA 75 an to to an Understanding our Aiiglo-S'j)anisli, in losfss than a quarter-of-an-liour we were again in the saddle, ao companied by a ' nigger ' for a guide, who rode ' pilhon ' on the strongest beast. Having lieard tliat the person to whose quarters we were now boimd had settled ni these parts, we expected to find a large farm- house — foi'gettinfj for the moment that we were in Peru ; and, indeed, when, after riding over dreary miles of sand, passing occasionally the carcase of a dead horse or donkey — the latter a sight as rarely seen as ' a dead drummer ' — we came to some fertile land, thickly wooded in many places, in the middle of which was a httle shrubbery, having a gated entrance, we were rash enough to entertain ideas of there being some Miss G.'s, music, &c., after dinner. However, we were soon aroused from our reverie by sighting an ugly-looking house, built of bamboo, and by the yelping of dogs, followed by the appearance of a tall, well-built individual, v/ho immediately welcomed us, and desired us ' to accept the poor hospitality at his disposal.' And very thankful we were, too, after our long, dusty ride, rough though our quarters might be ; but our host, being a worthy type of the rough-and- ready old whaling captain, did all in his power to make us comfortable ; and soon afterwards his wife (a native of Peru) prepared a goodly repast for us, in the shape of a stew of some kind, but of which we were too hungry to inquire the ingredients. Our bed con- sisted of dried Indian corn-shucks, spread on the floor, a great deal more comfortable than rnay appear, as we m ii<' •it V'tl I :i hi i . , ! I - 1 .1 l! 1 ■ 1 7f. OUli .UJUUNAL IN Till'! ]>A('iFI(J Cii. V wore only uwnkeiicd al dawn cd' tl.iy by llie t'linttcriiig and .squal)brninishef'n '■V ,.1 tl'tl nin f Oirif .lOUUNAl TN TTTT: VACfFrr Cir. V. til bolder tlifin tlie rest, adviinood about ton feet out of water, wlien a well-directed ball laid liiiu on his 'beam-ends,' breaking liis fore-slioulder, and passing clean throngh the body. This being niiiid)er two, we thought ourselves very lucky, and were quite prepared to return. Several others were hit on the way down- stream, but they managed to roll into the water, and, of course, sunk. It was a grand sight, when at the mouth of the river, to see some hundreds of these big beasts swimming along, with only their eyes and nose above water. Landing, we found our horses ready for us, so, securing our alligators for the journey, with a bag of smaller game, said farewell to our worthy okl host, and started for Payta, with many regrets that our short but pleasant cruise had come to an end. It was very late before we got on board that day, as, during the ride back, one of the horses broke down, and positively refused to carry its rider, who had to dismount and share one of the others ; then, by dint of blows, we managed to drive the pooi- tired-out animal on before us till we reached Payta. November 15 — Left Payta yesterday for Concepcion. The mail came in on the loth, but brought little news, except as regards the war — a telegram to say that Metz had capitulated, and Bazaine surreiulered with 150,000 men. This disaster, no doubt, will alter the whole com[)lexion of affairs, and go far towards stranghng the slight hope the French had of shaking ofT the grip of their enemy. It is difficult to imagine :i man ^nrrendering such a large army without a battle. Cii. V. /'/1V7VI TO TOME ttle, L'spucitill}' wlieii till? PrussiuM ;iriny outside tlie walls could not have outiiiuiibcrod them l)y luuch, if at all ; only time can sliovv whether the scarcity of food was such as to palliate a step which deprived France of a lai'ge body of men at a most critical time. Concepcion, though not more than two thousand miles in a direct line from Payta, is considerably more so by the route that ships under sail nuist neces- sarily take in order to reach it, and the passage varies . at difTcrent times of the year, according to the south- east trade-wind being more or less to the eastward, enabling you either to lay well to the southward, or else forcing you out fr(im land a long distance before you are far enough south to pick up a westerly wind. So there are a good many opinions as to when we shall arrive; December 20 being considered about the day. November 23. — For tlie last week we have had nothing but light winds, so made slow ])rogress, but now are beginning to f(;el the trade-wind much strongei*. Tins ocean is so vast that even now^ it can hardly be said that the winds in different localities are as well known as those of the Atlantic, more especially since our knowledge is based upon the experience of a certain number of vessels foUowiuLj more or less in the same path. That experience in this quarter has not, for sevei'al reasons, such a wide lield as in the Atlantic. Consequently, peculiarities of wind and wearlicr are often found here aj)parently o])posed to all previous experience, and preventing any certainty of prophecy ns io what mav be (^ncountorod, but in . !'.ty only 80 onn JouJiNAL tn tjie vAcrFrr C'ir. V. r ' If iinotlier link wliich, if gatlicrcd like the rest, will ('(»ni|)Iet(' our cliniii of kiunvledgo of the vagai'ies of winds and currents. \\\ llic way of amusement Inst Wednesday was a Icelui-e from A on Charles I. — a defenee of him, ■\vhi(;h led to h^wc debate afterwards. The Minstrels gave a performance last night, and, under the able presidency of ' Massa Johnson,' kept up the reputation they liad earned on a previous occasicm, 'Bones,' as usual, being the chief contributoi'. Noveniher 26. — Yesterday we had a very interesting incident to vary the monotony of our sea-cruise. For the last three days we have been startled by the unusual sight of 1 ship, apparently a whaler. In fact we knew she must be a whaler by the look-out men at her masthead ; so, knowing we w^ere now approaching the whale country, kept an observing eye upon her. Yesterday forenoon we observed her send away three boats; she was then several miles to windward, so we were not able to make out much, except tliat we could see the white spi'ay thrown up by the wliales when blowing, therefore concluded they had got in amongst a ' school.' This proved correct, as in the chase they gradually closed on us till we could see everything distinctly. It was quite exciting. We sr.w the boat a[)proacli to wliei'e some six or eight whales were sporting, and, after a few fruitless efforts in throwing the harpoon, one was at last transfixed. Away, he Avent, and away flew the boat, now one way, now another. They had gradually been apj)roaching us Cii. V /'.IV7M TO rosnU'cms 81 ill this time, ;iinl wi'i'c now (jiiitc clos*', so wt- took ill sail in older to ohsci'vc tlicii" inov«Mn('!its bettor. Anotlior boat had har|)Ooiie(l a whale, but lost it at'tor a short chase. In the nioantinio, the first boat hold on mnnfully, the whale i'vidently },'ettin nr/,' .i(ni:\.\i. i\ nil': iwriiic cn. v. I, eel 1 1 It's, iVi'c :iii(l t-ioy ('iilcil;iiimiciits, :iii(l iniiist rcl^v still conrniiic lo allord sonic rdiiXiitioii Ml :i liiiit* wIk'h one (lay dillrri'tli IVuiii another only in lu-ing somewhat neai'ei' ynni' (loslina!i(»n. Were il olherwise. were these ' eonveyance, innocent of springs, a box on wheels, many feet from the ground, with just room for the party inside and-out. It is supposed to have been taken from the Incas, and no doubt something of the kind may be seen in the wilds of Ireland to this day. It was drawn by five horses all abreast of each other, and in attend- aiice Avas a ]*icturesque-looking individual called a ' guacho,' habited in a dirty ' jM>ncho,* big spurs, and ' sombrero,' who rode by the side (»f the coach, and on coming to any steep j)lace, or when fbrding a river, hooked his horse in front of the others, and making a fiendish noise, iu'ued them over the obstacle. The ' |)oncho ' is a sort of blanket, many-coloured, and in the middle is a slit for the head to come through ; it then lays over the shoulders, making a most comfort- able ])aletol. We started at S a.m.. and after proceeding about a Cji. VI. CUMJEI'ClOX 8r> he mile along tlu.' sea shore, asceiidetl by a wiiKliiitr !'*«i(l iij) a stee|) hill. liut the iK'aiitifiil seeiu; which met the eye on arriving at the to]) am])ly repaid us, for Ave found it overlooked one of tliose charming little valleys seldom seen save in South America, and generally far inland. Here on each side were the rugged and l)arreu clills, and then down at your feet, miniatured by distance, the green plain ])artly devoted to cattle and partly to grain, whilst by the side of a small river almost hid bv a i^rove of trees was the farm oi' ranehe. Such a pi^aceful, quiet spot; lucky the man who owned such an oasis. The road was in some places very rough, and \vc wei'e nuich jolters men childish and lills women with the fren/y of nriduess at the siu'lil ol" universal destruction worked l»v unseen hancb un til tl le mornnig lollowuiu' our u'rival, when suddenlv, Avhilst still in bed, the wlioh 'J ' liousi' began to shake violently as if heavily-laden Avaggons were jiassing rapidly through the street. Ihil the absence of noise scantiness of mv attire, when foiluuatelv for the I It . ^a :Ufl l »I W r1-» I FTT aim Cii. VI, fn.M'iU'Ciox H7 III lie modest (?) susre|)tibiliti(js of tlic iiativi's, it .subsicK 1, ;iii(l I WL'iit no furtlu'r tliaii iIk; threshold. The iii- liiibitaiits, liowever, are so accustoiued to these slioeks that tliey do not suspend their daily avoealions until tlie houses begin to fall, when their terror is in ])ro- portion to their former indiflerenee. The earthquake I have alluded to, which took place in 1835, and ])roved so ruinous to Concepcion, is well described by Mr. Darwin, as follows : — 'At ten in the morning of the 2()t'U)f February, very large flights of sea-fowl were noticed passing over the city of Concepcion from the sea coast towards the interior. At forty mimites past eleven a shock of an earthquake was felt, slightly at iirst, but increasing rapidly. During the first half minute many persons remained in their houses, but then the convulsive movements were so strong that the alarm became general, and they all rushed into open places for safety. The horrid motion increased; people could hardly stand ; buildings wavered and tottered ; sud- denly an awful overpowering shock caused univei'sal destruction ; aud in less than six seconds the city was in ruins. The stumiing noise of falling houses: the horrible cracking of the earth, which opened and shut rapidly iuid rej)eatedly in numerous places ; the desperate, heartrending outcries of the people ; the blinding, smothering clouds of dust ; the utter helj)less- ness and confusion; and the extreme hornu- and al;irm can neither be des(Til)ed or fully imagined. About half an hour after the shock, the sea having retired .1' .■ vl n H8 (Hl{ lOVUKAL IN THE fAClt'lC Ch. VI. ffo iMucli tliiit vessels liivinr ./r.i.v /• 7;/,' v.i.v ///•;/ ifi cxcliiiiiU'cd oiii' Cinnrorlahlc qiiMitcrs ;il llic liotcl Inr oiii' old IViciid I III! co.'icli, iiiid r 21, and arri\('d at the island of Juan Fernandez early in the morning of the '24th. It is didicull to imagine a more impressi\-e hit <»f scenery than that which greets the eye on coming on deck, and seeing it for the fu'st time aftei- anchoi- iiig. We lay close to the shore, which went up almost perix'udicular to a height in some places of ;j, ()()() feet, towering al)o\e us like a huge giant. ^I'liese hcighls faced us in the shape of a semi-circle, and to all appearance we lay in the middle of an extinct crater, of which the olhei' half of the circle had been thrown into \]\o sea, and now ibrmed oui' anchorage. . I'^ery appi;arance justified this idea. No doubt a \ast erup- tion took j)lace many yeai's ago, which [)ro(luced this wonderful Ibi-mation. .\l night, particularly, it looks very grand, and from its closeness and height appeal's to be ri'dit o\er vour head, standiiiu' out dear and distinct against the skv. I " s t. I- ' -I di UlJU JOlJh'NAl. l\ Tin: I'AVlbU! ("n. VI ;rs 'J The itilaiid belongs ti) Cliili, and thcru iiiv now vvA- (Iciil, on it live fiimiiies, possessing ninclcuii cliiidrcn, three cows, four Hheep, several liorscs, and goats innu- merable, wliich hitter abound on the otlier side of the ish'uid. Tile j)rineipal personage in liiis little eom- nnniitv spoke l^'ntiiish reniarkablv well, lie told us tliev were ju-rfeetly ha]ipy ; never wi're ill; and hai:/ ••:'. ;K'('oi'cliii«^' to llii' Ixtok, llicrc i> iiotliinu; in .luiiii Frr- iiniidcz to mvc rise to llui helici' tli;iL l)et"oc could have received from Selkirk aiiytliino' hut the idea from wliicli he constructed his famous romance ; moreover, it was not published till the year 1710, ten years after the return of Selkirk. That Pefoe took the ••reater ])ai"t — as he has Ix-en accused — of his story from Selkirk's journal, it is imj)ossil)le for any one who has seen tlu» island of Juan Fernandex to believe, and, seeinjif, form some idea of what the life of Selkirk mu;jt have been with the materials at his command, the vegetable and animal life upon the island. His cave can be seen now, cut in a sand cliff, with the shelves in it, used for c(M)kin<; utensils, &c., so that uidess we concede the almost impossible theory that when it was visited by a fearful eailhquake in 1700 the wIkjIc island changed its nature and a|)p(\arance, we nuist ac(|uit Defoe of plagiai'ism. Tf he did rend Selkirk's journal, it had the effect simj)ly of luakinu' him strive in evtuy way to show there was no connection or similitude the one with the other. About 2,000 feet high is a small gap in the ridg(> to which it is said Selkirk clambered everyday to look out for passing vessels. The day after our arrival being C'hristnms-dav, we determined to celebrate it by a visit to this spot. The first tiling you see on landing is a row of caves, cut in a small sand dill'. In the begin- ning- of this century the island was used bv the Chi- lians as a convict estal)lishment for thc^ worst of their criminals, and they did a great deal in making it ac- i'l f»r/,' .litvusM. IS Tin: iwrinr cu.w t I ('('»iltl(' III lii.-ill ill lllMl'V |»iirls. 'I'lioc r!i\('S jii'c tlx' ri'lls wlicic tlicy welt' plMfcd lol" pillii-^lililciit. ;illai'doii. Whethei- this was an attempted solution of the problem, 'What to do with our criminals,' or it was really desired for some reason to make it acux'ssible, is not known. Probably it answered iis pui'pose, for many <'ii \ I ISLAM' or .//'.i.v ri:i;\A.\i»i:/ v:» wcic l1" ••iir iiiiderlakiiiLi' coiii- iiieiii-ed. 'I'lie path Ave Inllowed had e\i(leiilly been made by the eonviels, and must lia\i' been a laborious task, rassiiiu- through Hl:', j)eaeli. and ehury ti'ees, all ^I'owiii^' hixuriaiitly, ihroiiiih myrtle, jiiiiipei', and lemon trei's, the iiseeiil now appealed nearly perpeii- dienlar, eon)i)ellini:' ns to rest eveiy twenty or thirlv yards, till we eaini' to the imu'e thickly \\(iu(! tlic muinoiv <>t S'lkiik, in ISiiS. l-'nuii our positioti tho viow Wiis inii<.niirK('iil, fni- if t'liibrnct'd tlic whole island, and tlic sea tor miles round. We stood on a narrow ridixe not two vaids hioad, each .side of which went down nearly jurpendicuhir. Ft sootnod as if there had ))een two craters side by side, and our ridge was the division hctwccn them, lor it continued at an irr(!