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Les diagrammas suivrnts iiiustrent la m6thode. 1 2 3 12 3 4 5 6 'I'wW ^Milp i»lCSJlp.C^, CAPTAIN COOK'S *'t'»V ini \ /\ •*» %fj? r A "TV n i- m >.■ I -K'^ *. h' - ; *» .«< i^^ "» S H • « CONTENTS. 5 9 to 73 LIFE of Captain Cook, First Voyage of Captain i Cook commenced in 1768, and finished in 1771, Second Voyage of Cap tain Cook, commenced m- 1 772, and finished in 1 775, 1 74 to 344 Divisions of the Second Voyage. Departure from England I o their Arrival at the Socie- ty Isles, - - - 174 to 222 ^^* This Pari includes Captain FiiT'- neaux^s Account of his First Separation. Departure from the Society Isles to their Return, and leaving them the Second Time, 222to3U From leaving New Zealand to their Return to Eng- land, « - • 314 to 344 ^4^* This Part includes Captain fhr^ maux^s Second SeparoHon^ hi THE LIFE OF CAPTAIN JAMES COOK. J AMES COOK was born at Marton, in Cleveland* near Grea; Ayton, in Yorkshire, in Nov. 1728. His father was a day labourer to a farmer, and lived in a small village, surrounded with mud walls. His fa* ther afterwards removed to Great Ayton, where he was employed as a hind, by the late Thomaa Scut- towe, Esq. assisted by his son in the difierent bran* ches of husbandry. At the age of thirteen, he was put under the carfe ^of Mr. Pullen, a schoolmaster who taught at Ayton» where he learned arithmetic, book-keeping, dec. and is said to have shewn a very early genius for figures. About Jan. 1745, at the age of seventeen, his uithef bound him apprentice to learn the grtx^ery and ha- berdashery business at Snaith ;; but after a year and a haifs servitude, having contracted a strong pro- Eensity to the sea, his master was willing to indulge im in following the bent of his inclination, and gave [up his indentures* I In July, 1746, he was bound apprentice to Mr- J. [Walker of Whitby, for the term of three years, which time he served to his master's full satisfaction. He first sailed on board the ship Freelove, chiefly employed in the coal trade from Newcastle to Lon* don. In the spring, 1750. Mr. Cook shipped himself ait ^seaman on board the Maria, under the command of Captain Gaskin. In her he continued aU that year m the Baltic trade. VOL.!.. A . vi THE LIFE OF CAPTAIN COOK. M In 1753, he entered on board his Majesty's ship Eagle ; *' having a mind/' as he expressed himself, •* to try his fortune that way. Some time after, the Eagle sailed with another frigate on a cruise, in which they were very successful. He received a commission as Lieutenant, on the first day of April, 1760 ; and soon after gave a spe- cimen of those abilities, which recommended h?m to the commands ^vhich he executed so highly to his credit, that his name will go down to posterity, as one of the most skilful navigators which this country liath produced. In the year 1765, he was with Sir William Burna- by, on the Jamaica station ; and behaved in such a manner as entitled him to the approbation of the Admiral. In the year 1767, the Royal Society resolved, that it would be proper to send some persons into some part of the South Seas, to observe the transit of the planet Venus over the Sun^s disk ; and Otaheite be- ing fixed upon, the Endeavour, a ship built for the coal trade, wa&put nito commission, and the com- mand of her given to Lieutenant Cook, who was ap- pointed with Mr. Charles Green to observe the tran- sit. In this voyage he was accompanied by Joseph" Banks, Esq- since Sir Joseph, and Dr. Solander. On the 13th of April, 1769, he came to Otaheite, wher6 the transit of Venus was observed in different parts of the island. He came to anchor in the Downs on the 12th of June, after having being absent almost three years, in whieh he had made discoveries equal to all the navigators of his country, from the time of Columbus to the present Soon after Captain Cook's return to England, it l^as resolved to equip two ships to complete the dis- covery of the Southern hemisphere. It had long been a prevailing idea, that the unexplored part cx>ntained another continent. To ascertain the fact was the principal object of this expedition ; and that nothing jni^t be omitted thjtt codd tend to facilitate the en- THE LIFE OF CAPTAIN COOK. vU terprise, two ships were provided ; the Resolution^ tinder the command of Captain Cook ; the other, the Adventure, commanded by Captain Furneaux. Roth of them sailed from Deptford on the 9th of April, 1772, and arrived at the Cape of Good Hope on the r>Oth of October. They depatted from thence cti the 22d of November, and from that time until the 17th of January, 1773, continued endeavouring to discover the continent, when they were obliged to relinquish the design. They then proceeded into the bouth Seas, and made many other discoveries, and return- ed to England on the 14th of July ; having, during three years and eighteen days, lost but one man by sickness ;. although he had navigated throughout ail the climates from 52 deg- N. to 71 deg- S. with a company of an hundred ^ind eighteen men. Tlic want of success which attended Captain Cook's attempt to discover a Southern Coilitinent, did not discourage another plan being resolved on, which had been recommended some time before. This was no other than the finding out a north-west passage* which the fancy of some chimerical projectors had conceived to be a practicable scheme, iiis intrepid spirit, and inquisitive mmd^ induced him again to of- fer his services, and they were accepted without he- Bftation. He prepared for his departure with the utmost alacrity, and sailed in the month of July, 1776. A few months after his departure from England, notwithstanding he was then absent, the Royal So- ciety voted him Sir Godfrey Copley's gold medal, a» a reward for the account which he had traiismitted to that body, of the method taken to preserve the health of the crew of his ships. Captain Cook was a married man, and left several children behind him. On each of these his Majesty has settled a pension of 251, per annum, and 200L per annum on his widow. The particulars of his three voyages, together with an account of his death, will be found amply described in this work, / i: VI . B H^^B' 1 1 t B' H ^B ^K . -I^M.I /• < CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOVAQE. Commenced In 1768, and finished in 1771, FEW years after his present Majesty's acces*- fcion to the throne, he turned his thoughts to voyages of Discovery, particularly in the Southern Heniis- >here. Three v ere made by Capt. (now Admiral) Jyron, Capt. Wallis, and Cap^. C^irteret, at differ- mt periods. Ip consequence of their success, othe- ^voyages were thought of upon a more enlarged scaler and carriedlnto execution by Capt. Cook, who made, three also. Unhappily, the last was one too many, as it was at the expense of his life. Of this a Com- pendium has been already laid before the public ; and his two former expeditions are now intended to be eiven in the same summary manner. Capt. Cook received his commi^^sion in the montU of May, 1768, and on the 26th of August following, sailed from Plymouth in the ^ndeavour, a vessel of about three hundred tons, which was priginaUy in- tended for the coal trade. Mr. Banks, a gentleman of (:nhsiderable property in Lincolnshire (now Sir Joseph Banks, and Presi- dent of the Hoyal Society,) and Dr. Solander, a na* tive of Sweden, who had studied under Lfinnaeus, both undertook, from a laudable desire of ac<}uiring know^ ledge in astronomy and botany, to accompany the Captain, The former of these gentlemen was w\ A2 10 CAPTAIN COOK'S Wvfej, long returned from a voyage to Newfoundland ; liis principal object now was to view the transit of Venus. Thev took two draftsmen with them ; one to deli- neate subjects in natural history, the other landscapes. Mr. Banks had also a secretary and four sen^ants. The first land they saw after their departure from Sn^land was on the 12d of September, when Cape Finister and Cape Ortega! in Spain both came in view. Here they observed some marine animals, hitherto unnoticed. They were angular in figure, one inch thick and three in length, with a natural hole or hollow quite through the centre of the body, and a brown spot near one of the extremities ; they shone very brilliant in thd*Svater, and displayed va- riety of colours. They arrived on the 13th at Madeira, and anchor- ed in Fonchial road. Here, unfortunately, they lost Mr. Weir, the Mastei**.*) mate, who, in heaving the anchor, fell overboatd and was drowned. This island has a beautifal appearance from the sea, those parts of hills which present themselves being covered with vines. Tne inhabitants of Madeira have no article of trade but wine, which is made by pressing the juice out in a square wooden vessel. The persons em- ployed havmg taken off their stockings and jackets, get into it, and with their elbows and feet press out as much of the jtiice as they can. In like manner the stalks, being tied together, are pressed under a square piece of wood, by a lever with a stone fasteia- ^d to the end of it. Thete are no wheel carriages of any sort, nor have the people any thing that resembles them, except a hollow board, or sledge, uppn which those wine ves- sels are drawn that are too big to be carried by hand. They have also horses and mules very proper for their roads, but their wine is, notwithstanding, brought to town from thevineyards, where it is made, in vessels of goat-skiii8» which are carried by men on their heads. FIRST VOYAGE. 11 Nature has been very liberal in her gifts to Ma- deira, llie inhabitants are not without ingenuity, but they want industry. The soil is so very rich» and there is such a variety in the climate, that there is scarcely any article either of the necessaries or lux- uries of life, which cannot be cultivated in the Island, Pine-apples and mangoes grow almost spontaneously if. the town, and great variety of fruit upon the hills* (/orn is also very large and plenty. The beef, mut- [ton, and pork, are remarkably good. Foncho^ which is fennel in rurtuguese, gave name to the town of Fonchial. It is seated at the bottom of a bay, indifferently built, the streets narrow, and very wretchedly paved- In the churches there are great numbers of ornaments, with pictures and ima- ges of saints, for the most part poorly executed. A better taste prevails in some of the convents, parti* cularly that of the Franciscans ; here simplicity and neatness unite. The infirmary does honour to the [architect, and is the most capital edifice in the whole >lace. There are many very high hills ; Pico Rui- ro is near 5100 feet in height, perpendicularly from its base. The inhabitants are computed to be be- ■tween 70 and 80,000 ; and the revenue arising from the customs is supposed to amount to 20 or 30,000 pouHds sterhng per annum. They abound in water, wine, fruit and onions ; sweatmeats of various sorts are also to be had, but permission must be obtained' from the Governor for poultry and fresh meat. They ■sailed from Madeira September 19. On the 23d they [saw the peak of Teneriflfe. This mountam is near 15,400 feet high. On the 29th they saw Bona Vista, Ipne of the Cape de Verd islands. From Teneriflfe to f%na Vista they observed fiying fish in considerable numbers, which appeared very beautiful, their sides lesembling burnished silver. Mr. Banks, on the rth ot October, caught what is called a Portuguese man n^^^' together with several marine animals of the Molusca tribe. October 19th, he sliot the black-toed feull, described by Linngjus ; UlC excrement of Ais Dira IS of a lively rei* 12 CAPTAIN COOK'S On the 25th of October, they crossed tfie line with the usual forms. On the ?9th, in the evening, they saw the luminous appearance of the sea mentioned by navigators ; it emitted rays of )ight, resembling those fJ lightning. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander threw but a casting-net, when aspecles of the w^cfw- ifa w^s caught, resembling a metallic substance great- ly heated, emitting a whitish light- Some crabs were also caught at the same time, which were exceeding small, yet gave a very glittering appearance- These animals have not yet been described by naturalists. Provisions now falling short, it was determined to put into Rio de Janeiro ; where they arrived on the 13th. Mr. Hicks, the first Lieutenant, was sent before in the pinnace to the city, to inform the Governor they put in there for refreshments and a pilot The pin- nace returned without the Lieutenant, who was de- tained till the Captain came on shore. Soon after, a ten-oared boat filled with soldiers came up, and row- ed round the ship, without any conversation taking place. A second boat came up, with several of the Viceroy's officers ; they inquired whence the En- deavour came ; what she had on board ; her num- ber of men, guns, and destination. These and many others questions were answered without equivoca- tion ; when they apologized for detaining the Lieu- tenant, and other steps they had taken, pleading custom. Capt. Cook went on shore on the 14th, and ob- tained leave to purchase what he wanted, on condi- tion of employing an inhabitant ^s a factor. To this he objected, h\j\t in vain, as well as to sending the sol- dier in the boat back and forward to the ship. They also refused to permit Mr Banks and Dr. Solander to go up the country to examine the plants, or indeed to leave the ship. Capt. Cook judging the Viceroy imagined they were com^ to trade, he endeavoured to convince him of his mistake, by acquainting him, that they were bound to the southward, to observe the transit of Venus ; a very intcrestjnj; object to ^h^ FIRST VOYAGE. 13 advancement of navigation, of which phenomenon he appeared to be totally ignorant. The Viceroy having ordered, that only the Cap- tain and such sailors as were necessary to be upon duty, should be suffered to land ; they, notwithstand- ing, attempted to come on shore, but were prevented by the guard-boat ; though several of the crew, un- known to the sentinel, stole out of the cabin window at midnight, letting themselves down by a rope into jthe boat, and driving away by the tide till they were .out of hearings then rowed to some unfrequented ppart of the shore, and ir.ade excursions up the coun- k' try, though not so far as they wished- When the r<^aptain complained of these restrictions, the only 'answer he obtained wa8,thathe acted in consequence of his Master's orders. It was now agreed to pre- [. sent two memorials to the Viceroy ; one was written |by the Captain, the other by Mr. Banks : their an* ifiwers were no way satisfactory. The Captain judg- ^'ng it necessary, in vindication of his compliance, to jrge the Viceroy to an act of force in the execution )f his orders, sent Lieutenant Hicks with a packet, (vith directions not to allow a guard in his boat. The [officer of the guard-boat did net oppose him by force, but accompanying the Lieutenant on shore, went to rthe Viceroy, and acquainted him with what had pass- •ed, which induced his excellency to rehise opening ^^e packet, commanding the Lieutenant to return. iHe found a soldier, as a guard had been put on board ^he boat in hisabsence^ and insisted upon tlie soldier's quitting it. 1 he officer now seized the boat's crew, md conducted them to prison, under a guard ; and the Lieutenant was sent back to the ship guarded likewise. When Mr. Hicks had acquainted the ^Captam with these transactions on shore, the latter wrote to the Viceroy, demanding his boat and men, and mclosed that very memorial, which he refused to receive from the Lieutenant This express was sent oy a petty officer, and the Viceroy promised to return an answer. In the inte- rim, in a sudden gust of wind, the long-boat, with u CAPTAmCObK'S four pipes of rum (by the rope breaking that was thrown her from the shij)) went adrift to windward of her, with a small skiff of Mr. Banks' that was fastened to her. The misfortune was still greater, as the pinnace was on shore. The yawl was manned immediately, but did not return till next morning, when she brought all the people on board. From them Capt. Cook learnt» that the long-boat having filled with water, they had brought her to a grap- pling, and quitted her ; and falling in with a reef of rocks on their return, they were compelled to cut adrift the little boat belonging- to Mr. Banks. 1 n this situation the Captain dispatched another letter to the Viceroy, acquainting him with the accident, at the same time desiring he would assist them with a boat to recover their own : This was accompanied with a fresh demand of the pinnace and her crew. His Excellency at length complied with both tl e request and demand ; and the same day they fortunately re- covered tlie long-boat and skiff Mr. Banks (on the j^th in the morning) artfully eluded the vigilance of the guard, and went on shore. He avoided the town, and passed the day in the fields, where the chief objects of his curiosity lay. Being prepared for sea^ with water and provisions, they took on board a pilot the 1st of December, but the wind being contrary, they were prevented get- ting out. On the 7th, having passed the Fort, the pilot was discharged, and the guard-boat quitted them at the same time. Within a few days of their leaving *^h place, the air was obscured with butterflies, chietly of one kind. The town of Janeiro is situated on the west side of the river, from which it extends about three quar- ters of a mile. Fhe ground on which it stands is pretty level. Some of its streets run parallel from north to south, and are intersected by others at right angles. The principal street is near an hundred feet in width, and extends from St. Benedict to the foot of Castle hill ; the other streets arc commonly FIRST VOYAGE, i 15 twenty or thirty feet wide. The houses adjoining to the principal street have three stories, but in other places they arc ver)r irregular, though built after [the same manner as in Lisbon. The Viceroy's palace forms the right angle of a large square ; the palace, mint, stables, gaol, &c. compose but one large building, which has two sto- ics, and is ninety teet from the water. The first itrance through the palace X is to a large bailor lard-room, to which there is an ascent of three or )ur steps. Here guards are stationed, who are re* ived night and morning ; the Viceroy's aid-de- imp at uie same time waiting in an anti-chamber receive messages and deliver orders. The left side of this square is an irregular build- ig, consisting chiefly of shops occupied by trading eople. In the centre of the square is a fountain ipplied with water from a spring at the distance of iree miles, conveyed by an acjueduct. From this luntain both the shipping and mhabitants are sup- ped with water, the place being continually crowd- with negroes of both sexes, waiting to fill their 's. At every corner of the streets is an altar. Ne- roes are almost the only people employed in selling le different commodities exposed in the market, id they fill up their leisure time in spinning of cot- ion. The gentry here keep their chaises, which are Irawn by mules ; the ladies however use a sedan bhair, boarded before and behind, with curtains on [ach side, which is carried by two negroes, depend - ig from a pole connected to the top of the chair by 70 iron rods coming from under its bottom, one on ich side, and resting at the top. The apothecaries' shops serve the purposes of a ioffec-house, people meeting in them to drink cap- ^lillaire, and play at back-gammon. Beggars who infest the streets of most European cities, are not to Se found in this. With regard to the women, it is on all hand» [agreed, that the females of the Portugiie«e and Spa- 16 CAPTAIN COOK'S tif ^1' nish settlements, in South America, are less averse to eranting amorous favours than those of any other civilized part ofthe globe. According to Dr. Solan- dei/s account, as soon as the evening began, females appeared on all sides in every window, and particu- larized those ofthe male sex they liked, by giving them nosegays ; the Doctor and two other gentlemen received so many of these bouquets, that they threw handfiils away* The climate of Rio de Janeiro is both agreeable and healthy, being free from many inconveniences that are incident to other tropical countries. The air is but seldom immoderately hot, as the sea breeze constantly begins to blow about ten o'clock in the morning, and continues until night, when it is gene- rally succeeded by a land wind. The soil produces all the tropical fruits, such as oranges, lemons, limes, melons, mangoes, cocoa-nuts, &C. in great abundance. The mines are rich, and lie a considerable way up the country ; they are kept so private, that any per- son Texcept those who work them) found upon the road which leads to them, is hung upon the next tree, unless he can give a satisfactory account of the cause of his being in that situation. Near forty thousand negroes are annually imported to dig in the mines ; these works are so pernicious to the human frame, and occasion so great a mortality amongst the poor ^vretches employed in them, that in the year 1766 twenty thousand nnore were drafted from the town of Rio, to supply the deficiency of the former num- ber. There are several courts of justice in the town, at all of which the Viceroy presides ; in criminal cau- ses the sentence is regulated by a majority of voices in the supreme court. The current coin is Portuguese, which is struck here ; the silver pieces are called Petacks, of differ- ent value • and the copper are fi\'e and ten ree pie- ces. FIRST VOYAGE. tr Tlie harbour is safd and commodious, and may be distinguished by a remarkable hill, in tlie shape of a cone, at the west point of the bay. The whole coast abounds with a very great variety of fish, among I -which are dolphins and mackarel. On the 9th of December they took out of the sea [an incredible number of atoms, of a yellowish colour, few of them more than the 50th part of an inch in ingth ; through a microscope it appeared doubtful rhether they were animals or vegetable substances ; Ihey tinged the sea in such a manner, as to cover it ritli broad streaks of a colour similar to themselves, the greatest part of a mile in length, and several lundred yardnin width. Thursday, December 8, 1768, having procured all :essary supplies, they left Rio de Janeiro. They id UQt meet with any material occurrence from this ime to the 22d, when they were surrounded by great lumbers of porpoises, of a singular species, which rere about nfteen feet in length, and of an ash co- On the 23d they observed aa eclipse of the )on ; and about seven o'clock in the morning a lall white cloud appeared in the west, from which train of fire issued, extending itself westerly ; about jtwo minutes after they heard two distinct loud explo- lions, immediately succeeding each other, like can- )n, after which the cloud soon disappeared. On the 30th they ran upwards ot fifty leagues, trough vast numbers of land insects, some in the lir, and others upon the water ; they appeared to jemble exactly the flies that are seen in England, lough they were thirty leagues from land, and some : these injects never quit it beyond a few yards. January 4, 1769, they saw an appearance of land, rhich they mistook for Pepy's island ; but qn their Landing towards it, it proved what the sailors call a 'og Bank. On the 14th they entered the streight of •e Maire ; but the tide being against them, they ^ere driven out with great violence, and the waves •an so high, that the ship's bowsprit was frequently rinder water ; at lenfjth however they got anchorage VOl«> 1. J^ m CAPTAIN COOK'S at the entrance of a little cove, which Captain Cook callfd St. Vincent's Bay. The weeds, which here grow upon rocky ground, are very remarkable ; tlicy appear above the sur- face in eight and nine fathoms water ; the leaves are four feet in length, and many of the stalks, though not more than an inch and a half in circumference^ above 100. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander having been on shore some hours, returned with more than a hundred different plants and flowers, hitherto un- noticed by the European botanists. Sunday 15, having anchored in 12 fathoms water, upon coral rocks, before a small cove, distant from) shore about a mile, two of the natives came down upon the beach, In expectation that they would land ; but this situation affording little shelter, the Captain got under sail again, and the natives retired. About two o'clock they anchored in the bay of ,] Good Success, and the Captain went on shore, ac- companied by Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander, to search for a watering-place, and confer with the In- dians. These gentlemen proceeded about a hun- dred yards before tlie Captain, when two of Uie In- dians having advanced forward and seated them- selves, they rose, upon Mr. Banks and the Doctor's coming up, and each of them threw away a small stick, which they had before in their hands ; this they did in such a direction, that the stick flew both from themselves and the strangers, which they meant as a token of peace, and a testimonial of their re- nouncing weapons ; they then returned briskly to- wards their companions, who had remained at some distance behind, and made signs to the strangers to advance, which they accordingly complied with. The reception the gentlemen met with was friendly, though the manner was uncouth. The civility was returned, by the distribution of beads and ribbons^ with which the Indians were much pleased. After a mutual confidence had been thus established, the rest of the Enghsh party joined, and a general con- versation, though of a singular kind, ensued. Three FIRST VOYAGE. 19 of the Indians now returned with the Captain and his friends to the ship, whom they clothed with jack- ets, and gave them jerked beef, 6cc. part of which they eat, and carried the remainder on shore. They refused to drink i:um or brandy, after tasting them, intimating by signs that it burnt their throats. One of them stole the covering of a globe, which he secre- ted under his cloak After staying near two hours ^ board, thpy went on shore. They were of a mid- lie stature, with broad flat faces, low foreheads, high cheeks, noses inclining to flatness, wide nostrils, small ^black eyes, large mouths, small but indifferent teeth, [^nd black straight hair, falling down over their ears ind foreheadj^ which was commonly smeared with ibrown and redpaint ; and, like all the original na- ptives of America, they were beardless. Their ^ar- [ments were the skins of guanicos and seals, which they wrapped round their shoulders. The women lave a small string tied round each ancle, and wear kch a flap of skin round the middle* They carry le children on their backs, and are generally em- ployed in domestic labour and drudgery. Mr. Banks, Dr* Solander, Mr. Buchan, and several ler gentlemen* accompanied by servants, went a )nsiderable way into the country, where they had larshy ground, and very cold blasts of wind and mow, to contend with ; however, after great fatigue, they at last attained a considerable eminence uiey lad in view. Here they found a great variety (k )lants, that gratified their curiosity, and repaid them for their toil . It was now near eight o'clock in the evening, and >r. Solander, who knew from experience that ^x* treme cold, when joined with fatigue, occasions a drowsiness that is not easily resisted, entreated his friends to keep in motion, however disagreeable it ^inight be to them ; his words were, " Whoever sits down will sleep ; and whoever sleeps, will wake no more.'* Every one seemed accordingly armed with resolution ; but on a sudden the cold became so very intense, as to threaten the most direful effects. 20 CAPTAIN COOK'S It was very remarkable, that I)r- Sol ander himself, who had so forcil>ly admoni>ihed and alarmed his party, should be the first who iiviisted upon being suf- fered to repose. In spite of the mo6t earnest en- treaties of his friends, he lay down amidst the snow, and it was with f',reat difficulty they kept the Doctor awake. One of the black servants became also weary and faint, and was upon the point of foUowinj^ the Doctor's example. Mr. Buchan was tliercfore detached with a party to make a fire at the first commodious spot they could meet with. Mr. Banks, "with four more, remained with the Doctor and Rich- mond the black, who, with the utmost difficulty, were induced to come on ; but after walking a few miles farther, they expressed their inabihty of proceeding. When the black was informed, that if he remained there he would soon be frozen to death, he replied, that he was so exhausted with fatigue, that death "would be a relief to him. Doctor Solander said he was not unwilling to go, but that he must first take some sleep, notwithstanding what he had before de- clared to the company' Thus resolved, they both sat down, supported by bushes, and in a short time fell fast asleep. Intelligence now came from the ad- vanced party, that a fire wico kindled about a quar- ter of a mile fmher on the way. Mr- Banks then waked the DtKtor, who had almost Jost the use of his limbs already, though it was but a few minutes since he sat down ; he nevertheless consented to go on. Every measure taken to relieve the black prov- ed ineffectual ; he remained motionless, and they were obliged to leave him to the care of the other black sfirvant and a sailor, who appeared to have been the least hurt by the cold, and they were to be relieved, as soon as two others were sufficiently warmed to supply their places. The Doctor was with much difficulty got to the fire. Those who were sent to relieve the companions of Richmond, returned in about half an hour without being able to find them. What rendered the mortification still greater was, that a bottle of rum, the whole stock FIRST VOYAGE. 21 of the party, could not be found, and was judged to have been left with onp of the three who were miss- ing. There was a fall of snow which incessantly continued for near two hours, and there remained no hopes of seeing the three absentees again, at least, alive. About twelve o'clock, ht^wever, a great shout> jng was heard at a distance, which gave inexpressi> ble satisfaction to every one present. Mr. BauKs and four others went forth, and met the sailor, with just streuRth enough to walk ; he was immediately sent to the fire, and they proceeded to seek for the two others. They found Richmond upon his legs, but in- capable of moving them ; the other black was lying senseless upon the ground- All endeavours to bring them to the fire were fruitless, nor was it possible to kindle one upon the spot, on account of the snow that had fallein and was still falling, so that there was no alternative, and they were compelled to leave the two unfortunate negroes to their fate, making them, ^however, a bed of boughs of trees, and covering them ^ery thick with the same. As all hands had been employed in endeavouring to move the two blacks to the fire, and had therefore [been exposed to the cold for near an hour and a half, some of them began to be afflicted in the same manner as those they went to relieve. Briscoe, ano- jther of Mr. Banks' servants, in particular, began to lose his sensibility. They at length reached the fire, [and there passed the night in a very disagreeable [manner. The party that set out from the ship con- |sisted of twelve, of whom t^o were already judged to be dead : it was doubtful whether a third would it able to return on board ; and Mr. Buchan, a Fourth, who had but just recovered from fits, seemed threatened with them again, lliey had wandered fso far into the internal parts, that the ship was a [long day's journey distant, through an unfrequented Lvood, in which they might probably be bewddered till night ; and being equipped only for a journey of a few hours, they had not provisions left sufficient tc^ afford the company a single me^ B2 22 CAPTAIN COOK^ On the 17th in the moming, at day-break, notlimg presented itself to view all around but snow, the tvccjj being eaually covered with it as the ground ; and the blasts of wind were so violent and frequent, that their journey was rendered impracticable, and there %vaK much reason to dread perishing with cold and famine. However, at about six in the morning they were flattered with a dawn of hope of being deliver- ed, by discovering the sun througn the clouds, which gradually diminished. Previous to their setting out, messengers were dispatched to the unhappy negroes, who returned with the melancholy news of tkeir death. About ten o'clock in the morning, they set out on their journey to the ship, and in about three hours, to dieir great astonishment and satisfacti. n, they found themselves upon the shore, much nearer to the ship than their most sanguine expectations could have flattered them. When they took a retrospect of their former route from the sea, they found that instead of ascending the hill in a direct line, they had p| made a circle almost round the country. The con* t gratulations every one on board expressed at their return, can better be imagined than expressed. On the 20th, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander made J another excursion into the countiy. After walking for some time, they arrived at a small town, consist- ing of about a dozen miserable huts, constructed without art or regularity, in the form of a sugar loaf, with a place left open, which answered the double purpose of a door and chimney. Their bows and arrows were constructed with neatness and ingenui- ty : they were made of wood highly polibhed ; and the point, which wa& either glass or flint, was fitted with much skill. Mr. Banks observed glass and flint amongst them unwrought, with cloth, canvass, rings, buttons, &c. it was therefore judged, that they tra« veiled at times to the north, as no ship had touchet} at this part of Terra del Fuego for some years. They did not seem to have any form of govern* ment among them, nor did there appear ^ny ktod of FIRST VOYAGE. S3 IsLbordination. These ficople appeared upon the mhole to be the outcasts of human nature, whose lives were passed in wandering in a forlorn manner )ver dreary wastes ; their only food was shell-fish, iesUtute of every convenience arisine from the rud- ;st art, or even an implement to dress their food. >uch were these people, who nevertheless appeared content ; so little does refinement or luxury proinot0 happiness. The -enerality of writers, who have described the lland of 'Ferra del Fuego, have represented it as »vered with snow, and destitute of wood. In this, lowever, they are evidently mistaken, and their er- )r must have arisen from having visited it in the rinter season, when it possibly is covered with snow, ^he crew of the Endeavour perceived trees when ley were at a considerable distance from the island, ind on their nearer approach, they found the sea joast and the sides of the hills clothed with an agree- ible verdure. The summit of tlie hills are barren. It the valleys are rich, and a brook is to be found the foot of almost every hill ; the water has a rcd- ih tinge, but is not ill tasted, and was some of the ;st the Captain took in during his whole voyage. Thursday, January 26, Captain Cook weighed mchor, and the weather being very calm, Mr. Banks lailed in a small boat to shoot birds, when he killed >me sheer- waters and albatrosses ; the latter were irger than those caught to the norUi of the streight ; le sheer-waters were less,^nd their backs darker )loured. The albatrosses proved very good eating. Notwithstanding the doubling of Cape Horn is re- presented as a very dangerous course, and that it is enerally thought passing the streight of Magellan is 5ss perilous, the Endeavour doubled it with as lit- le danger as the North Foreland on the Kentish joast ; the heavens were fair, the wind temporatCg the weather pleasant, and, being near shore, they [had a very distmct view of the coast. Mr. B%nks killed more than sixty birds in one day, and l^e caught two forest flies of the same speciesi 24 CAPTAIN CCXDK'S .1 H y but never yet described. He also found a cuttle-fish, •which had just been killed by the birds ; it was dif- ferent from the fishes of this name mc,t with in the European seas, having a double row of sharp talons, resembling those of a cat, which issued or retracted at will. This fish made excellent soup. Saturday the 25th, n account of a squabble about a bit of seal skin, which lie had taken in a frolic, but which was represented to his officer as a thelt, one of the mariners, a young fellow about twenty, threw himself overboard, and was drowned. About ten o'clock, Tuesday, April 4, Peter Bris- CoCv servant to Mr. Banks, discovered land to the soutli, about three or four leagues distant. The Cap- tain immediately hauled up for it, and found it to be an ifiland of an ova! form, with a lake or lagoon in the centre, that extended over the greatest part of it ; the border of land which surrounded the lake was in many places low and narrow, especially towards *he south, where the beach consisted of a reef of rocks ; three places on the north side had the same appearance. Captain Cook came within a mile on the north side, but though he cast a line of 130 fathom, be found no bottom, and could not meet with any an- chorage. There were several natives visible on shore ; they seemed tall, with remarkable large heads, which might probably be increased by some bandage ; their hair was black, and their complex- ions copper colour. There appeared along the beach, abreast of the ship, some of these inhabitants* with pikes or poles in their hands, which seemed twice the height of themselves. They at this tim« appeared naked ; but when they retired, upon the snip's passing the island, they put on a covering of a light colour. Captain Cook saw land again in the afternoon to the north-west. He reached it by sun-set, when it apptare'" a low island covered with wood, in form circular, about a mile in circumference. No inha- bitants were visible, nor any cocoa-n^jt trees, though lune Endeavour had reached the shore within halt 9 FIRST VOYAGE. "25 n\e ; yet the island appeared covered with verdure .f varioas tinges. This island, which is distant from Ihat of Lagoon, ^bx-mt seven leagues north, 62 west, ic gentlemen onboard named Thrumb v'ap. On the 5th, they discovered to the west a low iland, which appeared to be inhabited, and at three 'clock they came up with it. This land now seem- t divided into two islands, or rather collections of lands, their extent being near nine leagues. I'he o largest were divided from each other by a freight of near half a mile in bi-eadth. On the 10th, upon their looking out for the island which they v^rcre destined, they saw land a-head, tie next morning it appeared very high and moun- linous, and it was known to be King George the 'hird's Island, so named by Captain Wallis, but by natives called Otaheite. The calms prevei'ted Endeavour from approaching it till the morning the 12th, when a bree^ springing up, before ele- ven several canoes were making towards the ship ; Iv a fcv approached, and the people on board je that came the nearest would not come on board tptain Cook. Each canoe had in it young plan- tins, and branches of trees, as tokens of peace and leadship ; and they were handed up the sides of le ship by the people in one of the canoes, who latde signals in a very expressive manner, intimat- rg,that they desired these emblems of pacification koukl be placed in a conspicuous part of the ship ; kI they were accordingly stuck among the rigging, It which they testified their approbation. Their trgoes consisted of cocoa-nuts, bananas, bread-fruit, >ples and figs, which were very acceptable to the irew, and were then purchased. la the evening they opened the north-west point, md saw York Islancl, so named by the crew of the blphin. They lay <und was accordingly marked out for that purpose, ;reat number of the natives looking on all the die, and behaving in the most peaceable and ;ndly manner. ^r. Banks went a shooting in the woods, some irines and a petty officer being appointed to guard tent in the interim ; several of the natives ac- ipanied the gentlemen in this excursion. Upon ising a little river, Mr. Banks perceiving some Ils, fired and killed three. The Indians were Ick with the utmost terror at this event, which' bsioned them to fall suddenly to the ground, as if jy had been shot at the same time ; they recover- however, presently from their fright, and conti- id their march. Before this party had gone much ther, they were alarmed by the discharge of two ces, fired by the tent-guard. Owhaw, after calling ;ether the Captain's painty, dispersed all the In- ms except three, who broke branches of trees, as jdges of their fidelity. Upon their return to the it appeared, that an Indian had taken an oppor- iity to snatch away one of the sentinel's musquets ; lereupon a young midshipman, under whose com* md the party was, very imprudently ordered the trines to fire, which they did immediately amongst J thickest of the fugitive Indians, in number above mndred, several of whom were wounded ; but as ie ciiminal did not fall, they pursued and shot him ead. VOL.1. C wmmm 30 CAPTAIN COOK'S When Mr. Banks heard of the affair, he waj greatly displeased with the guard, and he used his utmost endeavours to accommodate the difference; and through the mediation of an old mrin, prevailed ^on many of the natives to come over to them, bring 1ng plantain-trees, their usual signal of peace, a clapping their hands in their breasts, they cried, Tya% which signifies friendship. Few of the natives appeared next mornipg upoj the beach, and not one oi them came on board. FroE hence Mr, Banks and the other gentlemen concluded, that their apprehensions were not entirely removed, more especially as even Owhaw had forsaken them The Captain, in consequence of these disagreeable appearances, brought tne ship nearer to shore, an moored her so as to make her broad-side bear ci: the spot which had been marked for erecting th fort. The Captain went on shore in the evenini with some of the gentlemen, when the Indians asseni bled round them, and they trafficked together in friendly manner. The fort began to be erected on the 18th. Sonii of the company wer8 employed in throwing up in trenchments, whilst others were occupied in cuttiw fascines and pickets, which the Indians of their ow accord cheerfully assisted in bringing from the woodi Three sides of the fort were fortified with intrench- ments and pallisades ; and on the other, which w flanked by a river, the water-casks being filled, we placed so as to form a breast-work. This day the natives brought down such quantiti of bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts, that it was necessa to reject them, and to intimate to them, that the co pany would not want any for two days. Beads we trafficked this day for every thing. Mr. Banks' tent being got up, he, for the first time, slept shore. No Indian attempted to approach it thi whole night ; however, a precaution had been tak to place proper sentinels about it. Mr. Monkhouse, the surgeon, said he had seen, i his evening walk, the body of the man who had beci L ti "MSAf FIRST VOYAGE. 31 lot at the tent. It was deposited in a shed» close the house where he had resided when alive The >rpse was placed on a bier, the frame of which was rood, with a matted bottom, supported by posts about re feet high. The corpse was covered with a mat, id over that a white cloth ; by its side lay a wooden lace, and towards the head two cocoa-nut shells ; ^wards the feet was a bunch of green leaves and fall dried boughs, tied together and stuck in the mnd, near which was a stone the size of a cocoa- here was also placed a young plantain-tree and tone axe. The natives seemed displeased at his broaching the body. "hey had a specinnen of the music of the country the 22d ; some of the natives performing on flutes, iich had only two stops ; they were blown like the |rman flute, but the performer blew with his nos- ' instead of his mouth : several others sung, ooly ie tuncj to this instrument. )me of the Indians brought the English axes to id and repair, mqst of which they had received the DolphiR ; but a French one occasioned :h speculation, and it at length appeared to have m left here by Mr. de Bouganville- 3n the 25th, several knives belonging to the offi- rs were missing ; upon which Mr. Banks, who had >t his among the rest, accused one of the Chiefs Ith having stolen it, which caused him to be very ihappy, as he happened to be innocent of the fact, |r. Banks' servant having mislaid it ; and the rest |re produced in a rag by a native. This Chief was Se time before he would forget this accusation, the rs starting from his eyes, and he made signs with \ knife, that if he had ever been guilty of such an tion, ^s was imputed to him, he would suffer his Toat to be cut. However, in general, these people, pm the highest to the lowest, are the greatest lieves in the world. X)n the 26th, six swivel guns were mounted upon Ie fort, which put the natives into great consterna- on, and caused several fishermen, who lived upon i' i^m \m k t t ^S' i (hIj, . [Ht 3? CAPTAIN COOK'S the point, to remove farther off, imagining they were to be fired at in a few days. The next day TuOora Tutnaida, with a friend, a i^emarkable ghitton, and tliree of his women, dined at the fort ; after which he set out for his house in the woofl. In a short time he returned in much agi- tation, to acquaint Mr. Banks that the ship's butcher] had threatened to cut his wife's thr%»at, upon her re- fusing!; to sell him a stone hatchet, which he had tak- en a fancy to, for a nail It clearly appeared he had i been culpable, and he was flog:ged on board, in sight' of several Indians. As soon as the first stroke wasj given they interfered, and earnestly entreated that he ini^ht be untied. This beina^ refused, they burst into] tears» and shewed great concern During the forenoon of this day, canoes were con-i tinually coming in. and the tents at the fort were filled] W'th people of both sexes. Mr. Molineux, master ofi the Endeavour, went iwi bhore, and seeing a woman.i whose name was Oberea, he declared she was thej person he judged to be the Queen of the island, when] he came there on board the Dolphin in the last voy- age. The eyes of every one were now fixed on her, whol had made so distinguished a figure in the accounts! that had been given by the first discoverers of thiJ islaPid. The person of the Queen Oberea was ofal large make, and tall ; she was ©bout forty years of! age, her skin white ; her eyes had great expression! and meaning in them ; she had been handsome, bot| her beauty was now upon the decline. She was soon| conducted to the ship, and went on board, accompa- nied with some of her familv. Many presents were! made her, particylarly a child's doll, which seemed the most to engross her attention. Captain Cofkj accompanied her on shore ; and as soon as they lana- ed, she presented him with a hog, and some plan- tains, which were carried to the for^ in procession,! Oberea and the Captain bringing up the rear. They met Tootahah, who, though pot King, seemed to be j at this time invested with sovereign authority. lis FIRST VOYAGE. G3 immediately became jealous of the Queen's having the doll ; which made them find it necessary to com- pliment him with one also. On Saturday 29th, in the forenoon, Mr. Banks paid visit to Oberea, who was still asleep under the awn- jg of her canoe, 'vhither he went with an intention >f calling her up. Upon entering her chamber, to lis great surprise, he found her in bed with a hand- feme young fellow, about five-and-twenty ; upon fhiehhe immediately retired with some precipita- )n, not a little disconcerted at this discovery ; but t was soon gjven to understand, that such amours 'ere by no means considered scandalous, and that Jbadie, the person found in bed with the Queen, was ly every one known \o have been selected by her as Se object of her lascivious hours. The Queen soon )t up arid dressed herself to wait upon Mr. Banks. The next day, Sunday the 30th, Tomio came run- [ng to the tents, and taking Mr. Banks by the arm, whom they apphed in all emergent cases, told him It Tubora Tumaida was dying, owing to home^ ing which had been given him to eat by his people, id prayed him to go instantly to him. Acccrding- Mr. Banks went, and found the Indian very sick, le was told, that he had been vomiting, and had irowu up a leaf, which they said contained some of poison wnich he had taken. Upon examining le leaf, Mr. Banks found it to be nothing more than )bacco, which the Indian had begjged of some of beir people. He looked up to Mnbanks, while he |as examining the leaf, as if he had not a moment to Mr Banks, now knowing his disorder, order- him to drink of cocoa-nut milk, which soon resto^- id him to health, and he was as cheerful as ever. On the 1st of May, Captain Cook produced an iron idze, made in imitation of one of their stone ones, rhich had been brought home by Captain Wallis, ^Bd shewed it to Tootahah, who took such a fancy to t, that notwithstanding he %vas offered the choice of my of the things that were in his cheatSi he snatched It up with the greatest eagerness, and would acce|^t S4 CAPTAIN COOK'S of nothing else. The same day a Chief, who had dined on boat'd a fe^v days before, accompanied by some of his women, who used to feed him, came on board by himself, anfl when dinner was on table, the Captain helped him to some victuals, thinking upon this occasion he would condescend to feed himself; but he never attempted to eat, and had not one of the servants fed him, he would certainly have gone without his dinner. In the afternoon they took the astronomical qua- drant, with some other instruments, on shore. On Tuesday the 2d, having occasion to use the quadrant, to their great astonishment and .concern it was missing; this was the more extraordinary, as a sentinel had been posted the whole night within a few yards of the tent in which it had been depoBiied ; and it had never been taken out of the case in which it was packed. Theii own people were at tirbt sus- pected, imagining they might have mistaken the contents for articles used in traffic. They searched the fort and the adjacent places, and a considerable reward was offered, as the loss of this instrument .would have rendered it impossible for them to have made the necessary observations respecting the transit, one of the principal objects of their voyag:e. After every fruitless search had been made, Mr Banks, accompanied by Mr, Green and some other gentlemen, set out for the woods, where he t^ou^ht he might gain some intelligence of the robbery, it it ;had been committed by the natives, In the course of their journey they met Tubora Tumaida, with a few of the natives, who was made by signs to under- fitand, that some of his countrymen had stolen the quadrant, and Mr. Banks insisted upon being con- ducted to the place where it was concealed. Ac- cordingly, they ijrocet ded together a few miles, and, after some inquiry, Tubora Tumaida received in- formation of the thief, and that he was to be found at a place about four mHes distant Having obtained froip Captain Cook a party of mei; armed as guards,they proceeded to the spot,and m FIRST VOYAGE. 35 were met by one of Tubora Tumaida's own people, [With part of the quadrant; soon afterwards the box in which it had been packed, coniaining ihc [other parts of it, was recovered. It had received 10 noalerialiiijury, though taken to pieces. On Wednesday the 3d, in the morning, Mr. Banks md Dr. Solander attended as usual to purchase pro- risions, but the liidians brought nothing to market ; ciiuld they procure an)^ from some fibbing- boats rhich came a-breast of the tents, though they rere in great m ant of cocoa-nuts and bread-truit. Their provisions now were extremely scarce, and le market^ ill supplied- Next day, with some ifficulty, Mr. Banks obtained a lew baskets of bread- ruit from I'ubora Tumaida in the w<>ods, which fere a very seasonable relief. An axe and shirt fere sent tor this day by Ti^nahah, in return for is two hogs, which they pi'omised to bring him the :xt day- If they had not complied with this re- lest, tliey could have sc:v»cely procured any provi- Ins. .fter his sending again early in the morning, on riday 5th, Mr. BunlS} and Dr Solander, with the paj)tain, set out in the pinnace, taking one of Too- ihah*s people with them. They soon reached E- irre, the place where he dwelt, which was but a miles to the west of the tents. Upon their arri- d, they found great numbers of people upon the kore waiting for them. They were immediately mducted to the Chief, whilst the natives shouted )und them, Taio TootafnUt^ ** Tootiihah is your lend." They' found him sitting under a tree, and leold men standing round him. As soon as he Id made signs for them to sit down, he asked fop axe, which Captain Cook presented toJiim, with shirt and a broadcloth garment, with ^hichr he jemed greatly pleased ; and put the garment on, ifter eating a mouthful together in the boat, they fere conducted to a large area, or couft-yard, oa ne side of his house, where an entertainment was provided for them, consisting of ^wr^stling. Thqi mmKm ■'( $« CAPTAIN COOK'S «f. ^ ^(^ - 1.. . — - Chief sat at the upper end of the area, witli 'several of his principal men on each side of him, by way ot judges, from whom the conquerors received ap- plause- Ten or twelve combatants entered the area, and after many simple ceremonies of challenging eacii other, they engaged, endeavouring to throw one another by dint ot strength ; then seizing hold of ci|ch other by the thigh, the hand, the h^ir, or the clothes, they grappled without the least art, till one was thrown on his back ; this conquest was ap- plauded by some words from the old ti^en, and three nnzzas* A man with a stick, who made way for them when they landed, officiated here as master of the ceremonies, keeping order among the people. When this entertainment was at an end, they urere informed, that some hogs and a quantity of bread-fruit were preparing for their dinner j which intelligence was the more agreeable, as their appe- tites were at this time exceeditigly keen. But instead of dining either on shore or on board of the boat, they had the mortification of going ^s f^r as tlie ship, by the desire of the chief. As soon as the chief was known to be on board the ship, the people brought plenty of bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and other provisions to the fort. On Tuesday 9tli, in the forenoon, Oberea paid them a visit, accompanied by her favourite Oba- die; she presented them with a hog and some bread- fruit. The forge hd:\^ now set up, and frequently at •work, became not only a new suyect of admiration to the In4ians, but afforded the Captain an addi- tional opportunity of conferring obligations op them, by permitting the smith during his leisure hours, to convert the old iron, which they were supposed to Jiave procured from the Dolphin, into different kinds pf tools. fk^ n9.tives, ^fter repeated attempts, fin^iiig FIRST VOYAGE. nr themselves incapable of pronouncing the namei of I the English gentlennen* had recourse to new ones [formed from their ovfn langiii^ge* Mr, Cook was named I'oote ; Hicks, Hete ; Gore, Toura ; So- lander, Tolano ; Banks, Opane ; Green. Treenc ; nd so on for the greatest part of the ship's crew. As Mr. Banks was sitting in his boat, trading with ^heai as usual, on Friday the 12t]i, a very extraor- dinary ceremony was performed by some ladies rho were strangers, to whom the rest of the Indians iving way on each side, and forming, a passage, ley advanced in procession towards Mv. Banks, to rhom they presented some parrot's feathers, iilan- bins, and other plants. The> then brought a large inndJe of cloth, consisting of nine pieces, which be- ig divided into three parcels, one of the women, r 1*0 appeared to be the principal, stepping 051 one ^ the parcels, pulled up all her clothes as high as :r waist, and then, with an air of unaffected sim- Ucity, turned round three times. This cerenoony )e rejHjated in the same manner on the other two ^rcHs of cloth, and the whole being then presented ' Mr. Banks, the ladies went and saluted him ; iu' stum for which he made them such presents as 5 thought would gratify them the moFt. The next evening Mt. Banks was under the disa- reeablc necessity of reprimanding, in very strong irrns^ Tubora Tiimaida, for having the insoience snatch^his gun from him, and firing it in'the tives, not intimidated by thesr presence, attempted tliat very evening to scale the walls of the fort, but Tvas prevented by the sentinel. These Indians could not resist making attempts to steal the iron and iron tools within the works. On the evening of the 14th, several of the offi- cers were witnesses to an entertainment of a veiy extraordinary nature, which consisted of the most indecent acts of lewdness. For example, a young fellow cohabited in public with a girl about eleven or t welie years of age, without the least sense of shame ; and what is still more extraordinary, Oberea^ with several other females of the first rank, were pre^ sent during the whole time. On Monday the 15th, Mr. Banks detected Tubo- ra Tumaida in having stolen some nails. Mr Banks liavinp; a good opinion of this Chief, v/as willing to put his fidelity to the t^st, and s- veral tensptations "were thrown in his way, among the rest a basket of nails, which proved irresistible. He confessed the fact, and upon Mr. Banks' insisting upon restitu- tions he declared the nails were at Eparre ; this oc- casioned high wor4s. and at length the Indian pro- duced on(? of them. He was to have been forgiven upon restoring the rest, but not having resolution to fulfil his engagement, he fled with his furniture and family before night. On the 17th, one of the natives who came jn the morning before day-light to steal some casks, it not being the; fir^t offence, the sentinel snapped his gun at him, but it triissing fire, he escaped. On the 27th of May, Tootaiiah, being removed to a place called Atahourou^ Mr. Banks, Or. Solandcr, Captain Cook, and some others, set out in the pin- i)ac« to pay him a visit ; ^fter niaking presents of a fpw trifling articles, they were invited to stay the night. Mr- Banks having accepted a place in Obe- rcii's canoe, kit His companions, in ord':> to retire to ''>^ r'IRST VOYAGE. 39 rest. Notwithstanding the care Oberca took of his clothes, by having them in her own custody, they vere stolen with his pistols, powder-honi, and many other things that were in his waistcoat pockets* The alarm was given to Tootahah, who slept in the next canoe, and who went with Oberea in search of the thief, leaving Mr. Banks^ with only his breeches ^on.and his musket uncharged. They soon return- [cd, but without success ; Mr. Banks thought proper to put up with the loss for the present He judged St now necessary to get up and try to find his com- panions ; he first went to the hut, where Captain Jook and three of his associates lay, and began to •elate his melancholy tale ; but insteai of receiving luch comfort from them, he was told, that they had shared the same fate, having lost their stockings md jackets. In their return to the boats, they w^re greatly Amused by seeing some Indians swimming for their liversion, amidst a surf which no I^uropean boat mid have lived in, or the best swimmer in Europe ive saved himself from drowning, had he by acci* int been exposed to its. fury. Some Indians from a neighbouring island, to jhich Captain Wallis gave the name of Duke of ork's Island, informed them of move than iwenty islands in the neighbor rhood of Otaheite. They iiow began to make preparations for ob- lervin^ ihe transit of Venus, and from the hints rhich Captain Cook had received from the Royal society, he sent out two parties to make observa- lons from difFerent spots, that in case they failed at ptaheite, they might succeed elsewhere; they em- pov4id themselves in preparing their insttuments, trd instructing such gentlemen with the use of fnem, as were to go out. And on Thursday the 1st of June, the next Saturday being the day of the tran- sit, thoy sent the long boat to Eimavo. having on loard Mr. Gore, Mr. Monkhousc, and Mr.Sporing, I friend of Mr. Banks ; each furnished with neccs- 40 CAPTiVlN COOK'S sary instruments by Mr. Green. Mr. Banks and se- veral of the Indians went out with this party. Other ■were dispatched to find out a convenient spot, at fiuch a distance from their principal station^ as might suit their purpose. Those who we6t to Eimayo in the long boat, after rowing best part of the night, by the help of some Indians on board a canoe, whicH they hailed, found a proper situation for their ol>servatory upon a rock, "wnich rose out of the water, about one hundred and forty yards from the shore ; wbere they fixed their tents, and prepared the apparatus for the following day's observation- On Saturday the 3d, as soon as it was light, Mr Bants left them to go to the island for fresh provi- isioQs. As he was trading with the natives who be- icDged to Tarrao^ the King of the islapti, h^unajes- ty arrived with his sister, whose name " Nuna, in order to pay him a visit. It being costomaiy among these people to be seated during their con- ferences, Mr. Banks spread on the ground his In- dian cloth turban, that he wore instead of a hat, on which they all sat down- After this the royal pre- sent wsfsbrougL^, consisting of a hog, a dog, some cocoa-n«ts,< bread-frait, &c. A messenger was dis- patched by Mr. Banks for an adze, a shirt, and some jdcads^ and they wexte presented to his majesty, who received tliem wiih muchpleasure- Tubora Tumai- da and Tomio, Indians who had gone with I*^ . Batiks upon the expedition, came from the obser • tory : Tomio, said to be related to Tarrao, brouga; him a long nail, and a shhrt for Nuna, by way of presents. Mr. Banks returned to tlie observatory •with Tarrao, Nuna, and three beautiful young wo- men, their chief attendants. He shewed them the transit of Venus over the sun, and informed them, that hf^ and his companions had come from fheir own country solely to view it in that situation; w*^ The produce oIF this island, according to the ItK $pectiMR of Mr. Bankis, proved to be much the saint: .'S T VOYAGE* 41 that of Otaheite, the people also rese:nb1ii)g^ thote that island ; many ot them he had seen upon it, lo wt ;e well acquainted with the value of the radinjr articles. Both the parties which were sent out, made their >servation with great suQcess. They neverthc»- ^63 differed m the accoMnl^f the times of the con* :ts more than n^ight have been imagined. Mr. Green's sxcount.was as follows : first external con- ;> Hours. Mm. Sec. ^i %5 i 44 14 32 ir [lUit, or fir^t appear- nce of Venus un the in, was \ le fir«t internal contact, ^ >r*otal imo^ersion, was ^ le second Internal con- Ifact, or lieginniug of the emersion |i| - second extlrttal con- i |ct, or total imnfersion^ tude of the Observatory itude 149** 32*30" W. of Greenwich. ^hilc th^y were viewing the transit of . of the ship^'s company broke into on* of the lerrooms, and a.olea quantity of spike-nails. As » circulation of these naiis might have becunLigh*" ^detrimental to them, strict search wd^Badep one of the thieves was detected. He haaflhly a in hb custody ; but was however punished with dozen lashes. here having been a scarcity of bread-fruit for le days, an inquiry was made of the cause, and J reason the Indians gave was, that there being a '^ crop, the fruit had been gathered to make a of sour paste, which the natives call Mahie^ kh aftei' fenrientation, will keep a long time» I supply them in times of dearth. Complaint was made on Monday the 12th to the ' ^ain, that the IndMla had lost some bows and Iws, and strings of pRlted hair ; the affair was [uired into, ana the hct being well attested, tiro *^ OI4, I, £) mm 42 CAPTAIN C ^ozen lashes were inflicted upon the sailors >i had stolen them- An iron coal-rake foi* the oven teingf stole in tl night of the 14th, and many other things having at did ferent times bten taken by the Indians, the Captabf judged it of some conseauence, if pos^ble to put a «nd to these practices,4y making it their commo interest to prevent it. He had already given strifl orders that the sentinqjls should not fire upon thei even if they were detected in the fact* Al twenty-seven of their double: canoes with sails w< ju.^t|;ome in with cargoes of fish, whieb the captad seized, and then gave notice, that unless the rak^ and all the other things, which had at differe 'vmesbeen stolen, were returned, the vessels shoi ^i irnt. The Captain had, indeed, no such de l^i^j , as will appear by the event. The menace pn ^^ced no other effect than the rel^lution of tli rake, all the ptherthuigs remainingin their poss sion. At length the Captain tl*Dught proper to giv the cargoes, as the innocent natives were i^ " distress for want of them ^and at last, topr " mfusioni from the difficulty of ascertaiidng whom^he diflfercnt lots belonged, he p^miseQ al to release the canoes. Ahoot this time anolhet* event had nearly invol ed jptenglish in a quarrel with the Indians- Tli CfiiMn having sent a boat on shore to get balh the officer not meeting immediately with what •wanted, began to pull down one of the sepulchi buildings ; this measure was strenuously opposed! the Indians. IVir- Banks having received mtelligeDO of the affair, repaired to the spot, and the matte ■was soon amicably terminated, there being ston^ sufficient found elsewhcjre- Ou the 19th in the evening, soon after dark^wbili tl\e canoes were detained by the Captain, 06ei the C^een, and several of her attendants, paid g;ei)tlemen a visit. She c^e from Tootahah's lace in a double canoe, awbrought with her breod-lnj^t, i^id otlver presents, amoDg which >vls< ln^ ^ FIRST VOYAGE. ; but none of the things that had been stolen t ,^?»she pleaded, had been taken away by her llant Obadie, tor which she had beaten him. She AS desirous of sleeping with her attenflants ip Mr. inks' tent ; but this being refused, she was obligeij pass the night in her canoe. ' rhe next morning tlf^Queen Tetnmed to the , Two of her attendants were very earnest m ting themselves husbands, in which they «i>c- acd by means ofthe Surgeon and one of the L'>eu- ' is. They «Rmed vfeVy agreeable till^J^d- and deterHiined to lie in Mr. IB'^ksj tch they Accordingly did, till the surgeon Ifl ic words with one of them, Mr. Banks thrust her U and she was followed by the rest, except^ea it \^iio cried for some JJJfie, till he turnip M also. This had like tl^ave become a stji lir, a duel being talked ofb^ween Mr. Bai^ ' Mr. MonkhouMj^but it wlis happily avoided. I are esteeme(rl|tre more delicate eating than ; as those breoxb be et ten taste no ^n^ia) but live entirely upon vegetables; and the^fe- -lent was tricid. Tupla undertook tl|^^l atld Jpne, which he did, by makirg a h^|e in the md and baking it It was deemed a very good 'hey were visited on the 21st at the fort by many lie Natives, who brought various kinds of pre- its. and among tlie rest Oamo, a Chief o£ several tricts on the island, whom they had nevtr -bt tore i, who brought with him a hog. This chief was ited with great respect by the natives, and was :ompanied by a boy and a young woman* The was carried upon a man's back, tliough he was able to walk. Oberea and some other ot the ms went out of the fort to meet thetn. their ids and bodies being first uncovered fis low as the list. This was considered as a mark of respect ; ^y had not noticed it before, but jiidped it was tally sliewn to persons of distinguished rank long them. Oamo entered the tent, but the ¥ 44 CAPTAIN COOK'S Hi young wcman, who was about sixteen, could not be prevailed upon to accompany 2;iim, though sheieent- ed to combat with her curiosity and inclinat wa.| Dr. Sblander took the youth by the hand, and con^j ductefl him in ; but the natives without, who had prevented the girl's entrance, soon found means to get him out again* jpff The curiositv of Mr. E^nks and the other gentle-j men being excited from these circumstances, they njaOe inquiry i|ho these strangers were, and wg' infocmcd, thatOaq^o #per and lodging by Ooratooa, the lady who paid compUmeuts to Mr. Banks in so i-ennarkable a iner at the fort. . the morning they pursued J|||ir passag:e for the ;r govei-nment- They landSnn a district f $ich governedby a Chief, named Maraitat^^c fyi»g filace of men, and his father was called jPa- iiREDE, the steaitr of boats. Notwithstanding \\x names were ominous, they gave the Captai Mr. Banks a very civil reception ; furnis ^m with provisions, and sold them a large |a hatchet- The curiosity of the natives wef e excited, and a^ifc^owd gathered round the En- gentlemen, but they saw only two people whom knew. They then advanced till tney reached listhct, which was under the dominion of the Jipal Chief or King, named Waheatua^ who had % but it was not known in whose hands* the sove- R power was lodged- Having continued their jour* along the shore for a considerable way, they at saw the Chief, and with him an agreeable yoimg ^an about two-and-twenty, named I'oudidde. key were not unacquainted with her name, as ' had often heard it mentioned by the natives ; they had gi'eat reas(m to suppose she was the renofthis pen M| aila. pa^*sing thr(Jn this part of the island, they id it better cultivated, and more improved than they had hitherto met with ; though the houses 5re but few,^nd those very small, but there were ;reat number of canoes which excelled any they id seen, both in size and workmanship. Notwith- inding the fertility of the country, provision qf ^ry kind was very scarce. P2 46 CAPTAIN COOK'S Towards the ^fthernmost part of the island they found a good hamcir, formed by ^^ef, aad the clr- cunnacent^untrf remarkably fiOTful. They landed again a little further to the east. Mathiabo, the Chief, with whom they had no ac- Quaiutance» nor had ever seen before, soon came to uiem, and supplied them with cocoa-nuts and bread- %Cruit. They purchased a hcg for a glass bottle,j ■which he took in preference to every other thin that was offered him. They saw here a turkey cock andta goose^^hich the Dolphin left on the island ; they wer^llmarkably fat, and seemed to be greatly admired oy the Ifftiians. A very uncommon ||Jght presented itself in a house near this j)laceT several human jaw-bones ■were fastened to a board of a semicircular form ; they seemed freshi and had not lost any of their teeth.. Mr. Banlfitcftuld obtain no explanation of' this ndvstery. They quitted this place, and arrived lis a bay on the north-west side. *^ Several canoes came off here with sotoe vilry beautiful women, who/ appeared to be desirous of their going on sliore, to which they readily assented They met with a friendly reception from the Chief, %vhQ^ name was Wiverou, who gave direcuons to SG|flpof his people to assist them in dressing their priSlftsions, which were now very plerititul, and they| ^ supped at Wiverou's house, in company with Ma- thiabo. Part of the house was allotted for them to I sleep in, and soon after supper they retired to rest. Mathiabo having obtained a cloak from Mr. Banks, tinder pretence of using it as a coverlet when he lay| down, immediately made off witlUt, unperc^yed by! that gentleman or his companies NewsHt^everl of the robbery was soon brought We m by one of the! natives ; in consequence of which inl^igence they | «et out in pursuit o^he thief, but had 'proceeded a very little way before they were met by a person bringing back the cloak, which Mathiabo had given up through fear. The house, ups^ their retur&i was entirely desert- FI] VOYAGE. 4r t, and aboiltfcMr inthe morni le alarin^^^t S boat was m tCMl c sentinel f^ttvt ■ig- Mr. Hank$ d the CaptaiiT^erc greatly as^miiSie^ at this ac- unt, and ran to the water's side ; fe^t though the orning was clear knd star-light, no boat was visi- Iheir situation was now extremely temfy- the party consisting of but four, with a singl^j^ isket and two pocket-pistols, without a s| are^ ^U or a charge wpowder. After remaining in "^ distressful st»kf anxiety for aJH|bide ruble dreading tflHId vantage the IM|p)s would, ie of it, to their great joy, the boatwliidi had *n driven a^y by tni tide, returned ; ||rid Mr. mks and his companions no sooner breakfasted in they departed. ^^ This place is situated onthcgifctlflidcofTiarra- I, the south- cast peninsulaaj^hie island. It is Lile and populous, and the^Rhabitants every 'r eJbftli aved \aih civility. Thejs^st district in U'dHyn w1|BI|hcy landed, was g^)vemed by a led Adoer He wanted a hatchet, but ^ had n^ one JKJih them. He would not trade bails, afwl theyT^tearkcd, the Chief accompa^ Ig thefh|^^ After going about three miles.^the >tain met wkb some of Omoe's people, w\ ^ with them a very large hog. The Chief a exchange the hog for a large axe, and a ,.«..,^ to bring the beast to the' fort in Port Uoyar! iy. This resolution he came to after consulting^ ^ wife ; and Mr. Banks judftcd the excha )^eto be advantageous to the Englisli, as the hog was ima^^bly fine one. « k.t tn^lace they saw one of their Eatuas, or gods ; ras iMc M wicker work, and resembled the ire of a ni^ ; it was near seven feet in height, I was coifeibd with black wj|d white feathers ; the head were four protubflPjct^, which the na- res called Tatt ete, or little men. Here they took jve of Omoe^ ^ They were now near the districfHfcned Paparra, lich was goyemed !^ Oama 23^berca> ^vhere «»-^ f .'^?:t.. ^ 48 CAPTAIN ^Bk*s th^Y innn^ to HRkd the night Mf* Wll)p and hit compaiip^'ded 1||p(ut an hour bef||p it was dark, and found that they were botli set out to pay them a visit at the fqtt They nevertheless slept at v the house of Obcreat, which, though 'nbt large, was^tiry neat ; no inhabitant but her father was now in pos- ^Ip^sion of it, who shewed them much civility- Theyj ^bok this opportunity of walking out to a poiiit,uponj which they h^ observed, at a dyjtance, some trees* called EtQ||Aiich usually gro^^the burial-places of these ptfflp They call t;lflPlburying-grounU8 Morai, which are also places of worship. I'hey here saA^an immense edifice^ whicjji^hey found to be th6 Morai of Oamo and Ober€;a, which was by ; far the most considerable piece of s^rchitectuie to ^ be found in thelRl^ll ^- J It consisted of aT Bormous pile of stone work, ^ raised in the fornPHT a pyramid, with a fligii|of steps on each side, something aft^ the "^^H^'* ^^ those little butidmgs which are ffl&n<>"^]i^^^^^^ in England to place the pillars SP!un-diflp!q)on > it was near two hundred and ^^^ty f^ long, and! about one third as wide, and^^pfeeu forty and fifty fcet^ high. 7^ ^ foundation consisted of rock- stones, the steps oiisnl, and the upper part of round pebbles, c 11 of ^|h?Bme shape and size ; the rock and coral stones ;; were all s(juared with the utmost nealhess and regu- IHrity, and the whole building appeared as compact and firm as if it had been ei'ected by the best work- men in Europe. As the Ii dians we.e totally desti- tute of iron utensils to shape their stones, as^vell as mortar to cement them, When they had m JRkhera fit for ise ; a structure of such height an3PTOagni- tude must have been a work of infinite labour and fatigue. In the centre of th^Piimmit ;yas the representation of a bird, carved in wood ; close to this was the figure of a fish,|^ich was in stone- This pyramid made part of on^|c|e of a wide court or square, the^ ^ides of which mve nearly e^ual; the wl^ole yfs^ 49 FIRST VOYAGE, ^m railed in|K)^Wed with flat sl^s. ^^Hn %> lace grewXnolj|§thstanding it wlai in flHpianfWr I v^^ several plantains, and trees, whichl^tlic na- tve|mlied Etoa. At a little distance to the^west tlwSlifice was anotlier pived square, which con- iincd several small stages, called by the natives Iwattas, which appeared to be altars ; upon themj| ley place provisions, as sacrifices to tne gods : tr. Banks afterwards observed wholq^ hogs phN%i4 pon these Ewattfs^r altars. * '^ [The inhabitants of the island of Ofaheite, seem nothing so desirous of excelling each other as in ie grandeur and magnificence ot their sepulchr d the rank and authority of Oberea waft forci rinced upon this occasion. The gentlemen of the ideavour, it has been observg^^id not find Obe- possessed of tl^^ame power, as when the Dol» was at this plajpe, and they were now informed h cause. T^way from her house to the Mo- was by the ippside, and they observed in al| as they passed along, a great number of hu* ^bones. Inquiry being made into the cause of extraordinary Mgi p| | ^ hey were informed, that It four or five morffl^Rfore Captain Cook's ar* ^al, the inhabitants ol^^^rrabou, the peninst^ to louth-east, made a descent here, and slew lil^y fthe people, Jj^ose bones were those that were * ;n upon th^fe>ast : that hereupon Oberea, an# imo, who then held the government for his son, had and taken r^i;^e in the mountains ; and that victors destroyed all the houses, and pillaged cou^y. Mr. Bank^^as also informed, that tvn^B and goose whifPhe had seen in the dis- M ofMathiabo, were among the booty. This af- ded a reasog^ for their bipi found where the Iphin hadJI^e or no correspondence ; and the ison t( hv-bones, blHjfmentioned, which had been seen ^nging in the house, he was informed, that they id likewise been carried off as trophies, the jaw- -^les of their enlmies being considered by the na» ?s of this islind, as marks of tritimph,'as great jcalps areby the Indians of North Ameiica. L^■■*" CAPTAIN COOK^ ^^ the 30th they arrived at^JBahourou, Id aquaintance Tootahah resided ; he civility, and pr^vii^jdfor them a g;ood supper, and a conveniehtU(flng;| and notwithstanding they were 80 shamefullj^Jiun- dered the lart time they slept with this Chief, theyi spent the night in the utmost security, none of iheirl Clothes, or any other article, being misshig in thel Wiofmng. On Saturday, July 1st, they returned to the fuitl at Port Royal Harbour ; having discovered the island^s ~ oth peninsulas included, to be about one hundredf lies in circumference- heir Indian friends, crowded about them uponj their return, and none of them came without provi- sions. V .■ '; ^ Monday the Sd, Mr. Banks ^mi^'' an excursionj mrith some Indian guides, totracis the river up^thf! valley to its source, and observeitto what extent ' |i j banks were inhabited. After r/^eting with houses! foij.^thc space of six miles, they cair up to one] "which was said to be the last that C( be seer The master of it presen|K^l;^em with cocoa-nut and other fruits ; and afEIFa short visit, they con. tini^'d their walk- In thfe tour they often passed* under vaults, formed by^rbcky fragments, in which, S '*fey were informed, that those whg|U|ere benighted^ ten took refiige. During this t(^mc ha4 a fine | opportunity of searching for minerals ai|}ong the ' rocks, which were almost, on all sides, naked ; hetf foun^, however, not the smallest appearance of any| kind of mineral. The dikes, every whei;g resem- bling those ot Madeira,^SR'e manitcst signs of hav- ing been burnt Tlifre are afso evident traces ofj fire in the clay upon the hills, both of tjws and thcl neighbouring: islands- jBt Mr. Banks was engaged the 4infflrplanting on each side of the fort a great quantitj^ of the seeds of "water-melons, oranges, lemons, '^ijdes, and other plants :ind trees which he had brought from Rio|' Janeiro- He ^ave of these seeds to the Indianfi HRST VOYAGE, M fii. reat plen^, and planted many of them ft itielroodi : uneofthc melon seeds, "which had 'be|« plaiil- soon after his arrival, had already ^iroducecl ianttt which appeared to be in a very ficurishing iti^;; Preparations were now made for departing. On riday the 7th, the i^rpenters were ordered to take »wn the gates and fflBltsadoe# of the fort, to be con- •ted into fire-woolfon board the Endeavour, and of the Indians stole the staple and hook belong- to the gate ; he was instantly pursued, but could ^^ be found; and soon after thi9,:^heir «old friend ibora Tumaida brought back the staple. .^ ^.I'hey continued on the 8th and Sjji t o pull doWn fort, and their friends still vjajil^ fchem. )aptain Cook hoped now too^Mtei«' island with* any fanher^misunderstand|BH|tli the natives ; li in this lie was mistaken* ^^o foreign sailors Ing been outn^one of them was robbed of his [fe, and strividflpirecover H, the Indians attacked i|1)unded hiiWfn a dar^erous manner with^a leThis companion also received a ^jfj^lit w|phd lie head. As Captain Cook would have been un- ling to have taken farther notice of the transac*^ I, he, was not sorry the offenders had made tljeir Jape. Another affair equally disagreeable wifefi kr happened' Between the 8th and 9th in Wi renin^gro jisiung mariaes retired secretly fro foij^^l in the morning were not to be met wi^ }tice|Pring been given for all the company ._ I on board the next day, and ihat' the ship would |l that day or the day ensuing. Captain Cook be- to fear that the mari^ intended to remain on )re. He was apprised, that no effectual st^ps lid be taken to recover them without risking the irmony and good fellowshi{) which at present sub- jted between the English m^ the natives; and ierefore resolved to wait a day in hopes of their jtuming, gH » The 10th in the morning, the nmrines hot being turned, an inquiry was made afterthcm^ nnhtn the I J : ft if «!{*• 52 CAPTAIN COOIi'S lndi:»as declared they^did not propose retamiitf^ )|%»(ing taken refuge in the mountains, where it was' ^^pos»ible to discover them, and that each had tSLk.^n IPwife. In consequence of whiph it was intim^ed i several Chiefs v/ho were in th<^ fort with thcJr wc men, among whom were Tu^a Tumaida, Tcmiio and Oberea, that they wouldffi* be suffered to quit it till the deserters were proceed. Captain Cook thought this precaution necessary, as, by concealing theri a short time, he might be compelled to gn -.vithout them. They received the intinmtion VjM very little*signs either of fear or discontent, asfl|P ing the captain that the marines should be sent back. In th^iterim he sent Mr. Hicks in the pinnace to bi^^:l^tahah onboard the ship, which fie executed wi||Efegiving any alarm. Night com- in,o: on, Captain^j^l judged it^^as not prudent to let the pei^^will|^ the other, and the two people who were senT^^etch them back, would be detained whilst Tootahah wa>i confined. Mr. Hicks was immediately dispatched in the long-boat, with several men« to rescue the ^ English prisoners ; at the same time Captain Cook I tola Toutahah,that it was incumbent on him to as- * sist them with some of his pe^le, and to give orders in his name, that the men should be set vx libcrtfj for that he should expect him to answer for the event. Tootahapimmediately complied, andws party rccovereathe men "without any oppositioiii « V;^^4,vV^,.i:, 4^ « ' FIRST VOYAGE. •-%: 53 About seven in the morning on the 11th they re ed, but without the arms, which had been [^ >m therti when they were ma(Je prisoners trjodl were however brought on board soon lie Chiefs weipallowed to return on shore, the time ^ chiefs were set on shore from the Iship, those at tlie fort w^e also released, and after remaining with Mi. Banks about an hour and a half, ||hey all returned to their respective places of resi- snce^ When the deserter* were examined, it was iscovered, that the account which the Indians had ven was no way false : they had become fond of Two girls, and it was their design to keep themselves ^e ^cealed till the ship had s^saili and continue ipon the island. ^^^ Tupia, whose name has be^Wften mentioned in his voyage, had been prime miniaj|r of Oberea^ rhen she was at the pinnacle of her authority ; he ras also the principal firiest of the island, and^ terefore intimately acquainted with the reh'gion of country. He was likewise deeply versed in^a- jation, and was thorouglily acquainted with the tmber, situation, inhabitant^/, and produce of the j^^l^'^^ " ^^^ ^'^^ often tes^etf a desire to witn^idHI; and on Wednesdayj^l^ 12th, in the lonjin?:, he came on board, with %^^ about twelve ars of age, his servant, named Tayoti, and rei| |ue*^ the gentlemen on board to let bim,jio witl:^^ len^^l^ it^ was thought he would be tiseful to lent wmany particulars, they unanimously agreed comply wilh his request. Tupia then went on lore, for the last time, to see his friends, and took reral baubles to give them, a;> partmg tokens of nen>brance. fU Thursday the 13th of July, the ship was visited a multitude of thegimtle men's friends, and sur- mnded by numberle^ canoes, whxh contained the itoior natives. They weighed anchor about twelve,, 7the Indians took leave of the geiUlemenon board,, raping in a friendly and affecting manner. Tupia VOL. L B J^ # mm ■'^^ CAPTAIN S du^orted himself i^ this scene with a becomtni^ f^il||ude ; tears flow^a from his eyes, it is Inie, but ^fiflpbrt that he made to conceal thero,,di(f!umlid- ^Mhal honour. He went with Mr. Bank%'' t^he ina|t-head, where he contmu|A waving Ms ^ to nie canoes as long as they re|paii^ visiWc/ _ A^ccording to Tupia's account, tile islani^ could furnish above six thousand*fi^hting men> whereby a computation of the number ot inhabitants may easi- ly be made; The pro|ducc of Otaheite is bread-fruit, cocoa- nuts, bananas, plantains ; a fruit not unlike an ap- ple, potatoes, yams, cocoas, sugar-cane, ai|d a va- riety of other fruits and vegetables* They have no ^^pean fruits, garden stuff, or pulse, nor grain o^py species. Their tame ani- mals are ho^^dogs, and poultry ; there i^ not a wild animal w^hc island, except ducks, pi2:eons, parroquets, and a few other birds ; rats being the only quadruped ; and there are no serpents. The sea, however, supplies them with great variety of excellent fish. With regard to the people, they; are in genera! i rather of a larger make than Europeans* Thd| males are tall^ ipobHst, and finely shaoed. llftie fe- males of the^^^erior class are likewise generally above our common size ; but those of the lo\^er rank are rather below it, and some of them are remarka- bly littjP? ^^ ^ Their natural complexion is a fine clear flpb, or what we call brunette ; their skin, is dencately { smooth and agreeably soft. The shajpe of their fa- ces is in general handsome, and their eyes are full gof sensibility and expression ; their teetli arc like- ^wise remarkably wliite and regulai% and their breath entirely free from anu^disagreeable smell ; their hair is, for the most pip, black. Both sexes always eradicate the hair from their arm-pits, and -they often reproached the English gentlemen i^ a want of cleanliness for not making use of the saine mrrhod Tl>cir motions are ea-*^v aTicl #racefi;lj bte # f not 01 VOYAGE. «^f FIlA^VOYAGE. in ot vjr^ibus; theit^eportjignt is generous and inen, ^d their behaviour afflpRe and courteous.4fc: j&t^y^eSces frequently wear a piece of clotji of th^n^lkcture df the island tied round their hiSads inMe rorm of a tClrban ; and the women tak^jio lul^ iKikis in ]^aitii^ human hair into long strips, Vhiclf being folded into branches, are tia||i|a their foreheads by way of ornament. 1W»^ ; They stain their bodies, by indenting oir^ pricking the flesh with a small insti-ument Tuade of bone, cut Into short teeth ; which indentures they SU wlili a Idark blue or blackish mixture, prepared from the «moke of an oily nut, burnt by them instead of can- dles, and water ; this operation, which is called by the natives Tattaowing, is exceedingly painful, and Jeavv^an indellible mark on the skin. It is usu^y perf|»rped when they are about tenor twelve years of Bgtt and on different parts of the body ; but those which suffer most severely are the breech and the loins, which are marked .with arches car- ried one above another a considerable way up their tiacks. At the operation oL^b^tocwi^i^. performed upon the posteriors of a g^ about tw^e years of age, Mr- Ba 4ks was present ; it w is executed with an instrument that had twe- teeth, and at each stroke, which war repea| •'V 1* 'invent, serum mixed with blood issued." . . with great resolution for several minutes ; buv «tt lies gth the pain became so violent, that she murmured an^. com- plained, andij^en burst into the most violent Ian ^n- ations ; burlier operator was^. inexorah 3, whilst some females present chid and even beat aer- Mr. Banks was a spectator for near an hour» during which time it was performed only on one sir' , the other havmg undergone the ceremony s time before ; and the ardiesfpon the loins, which are the most painful, but upon which they the most pique themselves, were yet to be made. ^ They cLphe themselves in cloth and matting of various km& ; the first they wear in fair, thel^et m ♦• ! CAPTAIN ilJpK^ m wet weather. Hjly are Jnjiifferent hfvci^ lic* shitpe bein^ presertiip in tfeem 1 nor ace tl|| pief^es sewed together- The women of a iup^'igr uasa wear thrt^c or four piects ; one, which is cOionsid- erjble length, they wrap several ti^nes rowid their wiftts, and it falls down to the middle of thfe leg. Two <^^ree other short piecF.s, with a hol#cutiii the irf^ffi of each, are placed on one another, and their ^^s coming thro'igh theholr^, the long ends hang before and behind, both sides being open» by which meaiis they have the free use of their arms. The men's dress is very similar, differing only in one instance, which is, that part of the garment, in- stead of falling below the knees, is brough* between the legs. This dress is worn by all rank#^ people^ t^ only distinction being quantity in the superior class* At noon both sexes appear almost i4j|ked« \vearing only the piece of cloth that is tied vomd the ivaist. The boys and girls go quite naked ; the first tiU they are seven or eight years old, the latter till thg?* are about five. Their houses they seldom \ise but tci sleep in, or to avoklthc rain, ^s they eat in the open air, under the sl!^^of a tree. Their clothes serve them at nigiit foi^overing, and there are no 4ivi^ sions or apartments. The masfer and his wife re- pose in the middle, th^n tli| married people ; next to these the unmarried ^biales, and at a small distance the men whaare unmalTied ; and the servants sleep in tlie open af^ in fair weather* The house::* of the Chiefs, however, differ in some deg^'; there are. some veiy small, at) so built as to b^arrjed in ca- noes : all sides oi the * are inclosed with the leaves of the cocoa-nut ; the air, nevertheless, penetrates : in these the Chief and his wife alone sleep. There are also houses which are g^n^ ral receptacles for the inhabitants of a district- Thi se ai*e nnich larger. When a Chief kills a hog, which is but seldom, he ^^des it equally among his ^ ssals ; dogs and fowh are more coaimon. :^ V#4vwk..i*. •# WhIipPle bread-fruit is noBffi*seabon, they are lop^ied by cocoa-nuts, bananalj^lHTitains, &c. Ibeir cookery is confined to baking, and their Irink is generally water, or the milk of the cocoa- mt^lhough there were instances «|which son^e of heffidrank soj'reely of the1^ng«|ti^^ a|to be- )nie quite intoxicated ; this,^roTOvt , s^fi|ned to jroce'ea more from ignorance timn desigUr as'they rere never known to repeat a debauch of this kind second time- They were told, indeed, that the liefs sometimes became inebriated by drinking e juice of a plant called Ava, but of this they^^^ fristance during the time they remained on thW Thie Carols generally eat alone, unless when vi- ! lited bj astranger, who is sometimes permitted || icotlfe a second^lli their mess ; having nothing lo supply the want oFa table, they sit on vhe ground in the shade; leaves of trees being sprearfbefore them. serve as a table-cloth ; their attendants, who are '^A' umerous, having placed a basket befbre the Chiefs| ontaining their provisions, and a cocoa-nut shell w Fresh and salt water, seat themselv^ round them ; febey tlien begin by washing their jMuth and hands, ifter which they eat a mouthful of bread-fniit and ish, dipt in salt water alternately, till the whole is consumed, taking a supp|^ salt water likewise be- tween almost every morsel. Xhe bread-fruit and " ih being all eaten, they next have either plantains apples, which they never eat without being par- During this time a soft paste is prepared trom it bread-truit, which they sup out of a cocoa-nut lell ; this finishes the meal, and the hands and louth are again washed, as at the beginning. It is astonishing how much food they eat at a leal. Mr. Banks and so^e other gentlemen were present when one man devoured three fish the size >f a middling carp, four bread-fruits as large as; % , common melon, thirteen or fourteen plantains seven * )r eight inches long, and above half as big round, land about a quart of the paste made of breadfr E2 tr^^ *8 V CAPTAIN COOK'S It is not a little ^HKising, that the inhabitants of this island, who suMcd exceedingly sensible of the pleasures of society, should Mve an universal aver- sion tp the least mtercowse with each other at their meals ; and so ^^d are they in the observance d this unusual ^^tt^tftj^^^ even brothers and sisters ^ have their sepaTO^fflkskets to contain their provi- ' sions, and gcneraltysit some yards distance when they eat, with their backs tp^ned towards each other, not exchanging a single word during the whole time of their repast ; the middle aged of superior' ranlrusually betake themselves to sleep after ci||: iJfer ; but what is remarkable, the older pcoplelK^b not so lazy ; music, dancir.g, wrestling, ||j||phvX)Ung %vith the bow, or throwing a lance, cons||plE* a chief ^j>§grt of their diversions. ^ flutes, which have been men^nedf befor^and ^ drums, are th|^ly musical instalments among them; their drums W^ formed of a circular piece ot wood, JioUow at one ^nd only, which is covered with the ^n of a shark, and they are beaten with the hand instead of a stick. Their songs are extempore, and frequently in rhyme, but consist of only two lines. Amopg their other amusements ,they have a dance named Timor odee^ which is performed by tenor a dozen young females, who put themselves into the most wa^lon attitudes tha^^i^an possibly be imagined, keeping ,pj3||i5i during the performJIlnce with the greatest rii^ty and exactness; front these dances the women are immediately excluded on their be-'^J coming pregnant. Many of the principal people of this islcrid of each-, sex, have united into an association, in which no^' woman confines her favours to any particular man ; in this manner they obtain a perpetual variety, no one object ever gratifying them but a few days. The societies are named Arreou^ the members of ^vhichhave meetings, where the Bien amuse them- selves by wrestling ; and notwitj^anding the fre- quent intercourse which the wftmen hav^with a variety of men, they dance the TiTworoc/e^ iRuch a ' t I- A . FIRST VOYAGE " 59 „.ianner, as they ima^ne "willi|iiost excite the de- Uires of the male sekjy|i which are often gratified upon the spot- Theff^are much worse ptac^ces* [n case any of tlie women prove with child, wich this manner of life seldom happens, they destroy the helpless infant as soon as it is brought into the rorld, that it may not be a burthen to the father, ; lor interrupt the mother in pursuit of her lascivious Unusements. Natural affection, however, for the lild, sometimes happily produces a reformation in le mother ; but when this happens, the child's life always forfeited, unless the mother can procure a lan to adopt it as his child, in which case this inhu- lan mur^ci^ is prevented ; but both the man and^ roman ar||^J|jKiVer expelled this society.' The wo-. ' I an being^yi^icularized by the appellation ot^A ^hariinownm^^ bearer of children," which among |p these people is considered as a term of the greatest v^ [reproach. ^\ ^ '-% Their personal cleanliness is -xn ?)Vjject that mejflts »eculiar atten^on- Botfllsexes nover omit to wash ith water three times a day ; when they rise, at [noon, and before they go to rest They also keep their clothej|(6xtremeIy clean : so that in the largest "communities no disagreeable effluvia ever arises, \QV is there any other inconvenience *hajyieat» The chief noanufacture of Otaheite jMl|[)th ; of »^oth the«BLre three different sorflgWich are iae to contain them. «feg^ Lcir language is soft and musical, ^^hoilMMlrith ^Is, and IS easv to be pronounced. ButlWSther copious, Mr. banks and Dr. Solandtr were not iciently acquainted with it to know. As very either of their nouns or verbs are dechnable, it jt consequently be very imperfect. They found mM, however, to be mutually understood without ich difficulty. ^e followin^sjif^cimcn will possibly e^lej^e read- er to fOT)$^jsqme idea of their lan^^iif^ m 'y" Oowhau, the thighs, Kipoo a memhee, a cha7n»* ber-fiot, Mutee, to kis9^ Eawow, to acold. Ee Mattel'^ih Maynenee, Itopia, to/c m .<.'•* - Mne, a brother, >heine, a sister, me, a husband ^ee, a cMtf, idee, a child leine, a vfomam >wroo, the head: itau, the eyes* ^hoo, the nose, syoooo, the naiU* luheine, a vfife lerc the mali^ement of tht^lc falls to the lot of ^priests, and their method of (f%e consists chiefly •ayers and ceremonies, whicfi are repeated tiU patients recove^r die. ^ rom their connexion liitM MlE uroDeans. they re entailed upon tEem^ve^^ dreadful cutse, venereal dise»j^ which upon iiiqiiiry, evidehtly ipeared to hav^k bredrght amf^mg them by the-l ^ssels under the l^fnand of Ma^B^aiiwille- ^^s called by a mttne somewhat^fftillmn mean- Xx^r&tmnneasi but of a much stronger import ; % ^(P fl2 CAPTAIN COOK'S ^ ^ ^gftnd they gave a most shoeing account of the snfFerJ flppngs of those who were first infected with it ; tellinr ^ them, that their nails and hair fell off, and the flesi even rotted from their bones : and so greatly wcrti they terrified at the dreadful effects of this alarraini dise|ge, that the infected person was forsaken evj by fM^wn relations, and left to perish by himsej' ' sucli% stateof misery and pain as he had nevi*" fore experienced. The religion of these people appeared to be ex^ ccedingly mysterious. They emphatically style the Supreme Being, tl causer qf' earthquakes ; but their prayers are mor generally addresssd to Tane^ supposed to be a son the fi|$^ pM|nitors of nature-^ They b«lieve in the existence of thMoul in a sepaj rate state, and that there are two situations, diner] ing in their degrees of happin^p: "which they congi] der as receptacles for difiel^t ranks, but not places of reward and punishntbnt ; they suppc #that their Chiefs and principal people will have tli preference to those of inferior rank, as they imagir their actions no way influence their future state, an that their deities ta||| no cdjgnizyance of them whatj soever. ■'!^t' ^ I The ofiice.|)f priest is hereditary ; there are sevej ral ofthejiiiiy aiid of all ranks ; the Chief is respectedl next to tliMr Kings, and they are superior to thel rest of theliatives, not only in point of divine knov?-j ledgei' but also in th|]t of navigation|^nd astronomyl Ihe priests her| are no way concerned with thcj ceremony of marriage, it being a simple agreementl between the man and woman ; and when they choose to separate, it is d|jH^with as lUtle ceremony as that of their marriage.^* w\ S4 Slings, with wmcif the/^re very dexterous, pikes headed with stone, and long club33Jiade of wood, re- ' markabjy hard and heavy, con^lllte their weapons. With thfe they fight with great obstinacy and cru- elty, giwig no quarter either to man, woman, or! (thUcl, if tliey fall i^^^tlieir hands in time of battle- M .m. h FIRST VOYAGE. 63 There is nothing amoi% them substituted for tno-^^ y, or a general medium, by which every objectMb ay be purchased or procured ; neither can any'^^ rmanent gooiange names with Capt. Cook, %!i4ch was [readily assented to. The custom of exchanging kanie? is very prevalent inftHasislaiid, jind is consi- A 64 CAPTAIN COOK'S 4 h dered as a mark of fmndship. They found the ^. pie here nearly similar to those of Otaheite in alint every circumstance, except, if Tiipia might be ci dited,th^y were not addicted to thieving. Havii cume %an anchor in a $Q)all but fine harbour, on tl ive»t ftme ofLlhe jsland,|fi|ptain Cook went ashoi, accompankSl^y^r. Bafks and some other gentle men, with^[S ^ ia and the King. The instant the^ lar.ded, Tiv^aoincoveyed himself as low as his waist, and desired Mr- Monkhouse to follow bis examplt. Being seated, 'le now begun a speech, which lasted about twenty minutes ; the King, who stood opposit to him, answering in what seemed to be set replie I^urin^l^is discourse, he delivered at different time a ha^^iirchiet,^ a black silk neckcloth, t.ome bead and jSpains, as presents to their Eatua, or; , He received in retiirp for the Eatua, of the EnglSt a hog, son>e voung plantains, and two bunches ( feathers, which were earned on board. These ce remonies wJiire considered as a kind of ratification ( a treaty between the English and the King of Huaj heinC' f They went on shore again on the 18th wi^ hoi) Tupia ;but his boy, whose name was Tayota, xcouij panied them ; wi||j some difficulty thev negociate(| for eleven pigs, «kd were not without hopes of oW taining more the next morning. / Wednesday the llkh, they carried some hat,chetJ| with them, with which they procured three veryf large tai|g* As they proposed & sail in the after*|, noon, ^P^ing, accompained by^ibme others of thc| native^, came on board to take his leave, wh|^n hij" Majesty received from Captain Cook a small pewter plate, with thj^ollowing insojiption : " ^^ J^tan- nTc Majest^^^hip Endeavour, Lieut enan^|bok,i Commande/fBl6/th July, 1^^ He also wSs pre- sented n^ some meda^||br counters, resembling! the coin M||pn Poland, andm few other tr^ies. 1 This 4HEiid is distant from Otaheite about thirty' league3,and is about twenty miles in circumference* Mr. ^^^s found h^|^a spceiQs of $TX)rpion whick V ^ '^ - ^**^j ix-l^' FIRST VOYAGE. 6S haJ not seen before. The people are of a very izy disposition* though they are stouter and larger lade trian those of Otaheitc. From Huaheine they sailed for the i»land of Uli« jtea, and in the afternoon came within a league or ro of the shore. They |jifchored in |i bay, which is »rmed by a reef, on the nortli side of 4 the island ; ^o canoes of natives soon came off froth tlie shore, id brought with them two small hogs, which they xhangsd for some nails %nd beads. On the 20th, Ir. Banks, the Captain, and others* went on shore, ^coropanied by Tupia, who introduced th^m with ke same kind of ceremonies that had |t|^p place their landing at Huaheine ; aftQi* ^4B? ^^P'^- ok took possession of this and tlMyi^ce^ islands the name of the Kin^ of Great- wBin. i# ^Oti the 22d and 23d,;l|icin^ hazjTwcather, with *isk gale%, Captain Cadnudged it rather unsafe to It to sea. On the 24fR^ey got under sail; and peered to the northward within the reef, towards 1 opening five or six le^^ies distant. In effeclintj iis> he was in the greatest danger of striking on a ck ; the man who sounded, crying out on a sud- jn. Two fathom, at which they were much alarm- but happily got clear withoij^^receiving any da- page- :^^, I 1 he provisions of this islai^misist chiefly of co- )a-nuts, yams, plantains, andlPle>v hogs and fowls ; lat part of the country where they landed is not so {uitful at eithcjiOtaheite or Huaheine. HDn the 25thjffifey were within a league or two of |b island of OSina, but the wind continuing contra- they could not get near enough to land till tlie th in the morning, when Mr. Bankji and Dr. So- id«pwent in the long-boat, with ^^;M||^er, to mda harbour on the ea^side of the isla ^fa/ hich ley found safe and co^^ient, with gooJ^icho- ige. They then went on shore, and^jiurrhased >mehogs and fowls, and a large quantity M yams id plantains. VOL* I. F ■'^: (^6 CAPTAIN COOK'S ^ *f f his island appeared to be more barren than Uii. etea, but the produce was much the same- On the 29th . they sailed to the northward, and in the afternoon, finding themselves to windward of some harbours that lay on the west side of Ulietea, they intended to put intt> one of them, in order to 5top a leak which they had sprung in the powder- room, and to take in some additional ballast The •wind being right against them, they plied on and off ^ the afternoon of the 1st of August, when they | ine to an anchor in the entrr^nce of the chajinel ■which led into one of the harbours. Wedb^day, ^d of ^ugust, in the morning, when the tidejHtrned, the-' came into a proper place for mooring In tw^l^-elght fathoms. In the interim many of the i^Sves came , off, and brought hogs, fowls, and planCdinSj whii^^wtre purchased upon very moderate terms. M^ ' Mr. Banks and Dr. SoQfiaer went on shore, and spent the day very agreeably ; the natives shewing them great respect. Being conducted to the houses of the chief people^ they were received in anuncora* mon manner. Upon their entrance into a house,] they four.d those who had ran hastily before then), stan^jngon each side of a long mat, spread upon the ground, and the fajal ly sitting at the furtl^er end of it In one house JQp observed some very young girls, dressed in theWatest manner, who kept their places, waiting for the strangers to accost them : these girls were the most beautiful^e gentlemen had ever seen. ^^^ Before their departure t.iey wEre entertained •with a dance, different from any they had seen be- fore, i'he performer put upon his head a -large piece of wicker-work, about four feet long, of a cylindj^ll form, covered with feathers, and edged round \^m shark's teeth. Having this head-dress on, which is called a Whou^ he began to dance r^ith|g^w motion, frequently moving his head, so as ^^Mb'ibe a circle with the top of his wicker* CAP* ^pfeometimes t^rowJ«g it so near the faces of rfRST VOYA e»7 the bye-standers, as to make them jump back ^ [this they considered as an excellent piece of hu- mour, and it always produced a hearty la'igh 'when practised upon any^f the English gentlemen. On the 3d, they saw a ^^ r company of dancers, consisting of some of jy^e^^incipal people dlF the ■island. The women's^pks, breasts, and arms were [naked ; the othgr parwof the body were covered [with black clorti, which was fastened close roii^ jthem ; and by the ^de of each breast, next j arms, ^ [like a iiiSBs;ay I arms, was a small mume of black feathers, tv f^ Thus apparelled, they advanced side- ways, keep- ing tiiie with great exactness to the drums, which |bea ^uick and loud ; soon after, they began to [shike themselves in a very whimsical m^ner, and ^put their bodies into a variety of strange "^posturec^ sometim^ standing in a row on^e behind another, [^sometime? sitting down, and at others falling with their faces to the ground, and resting on their knees and elbows, moving their linger^ at the same tinrie with a quickness scarcely to be creditedi^ 'l^e chief dexterity, however, of these dancers, as well as the amusement of the spectators, consisted in the lasciviousness of their attitudes and gestures, which decency forbids us to describe. On Saturday the fifth, some hogs and fowH, and .several large pieces of cloth, many of them being "fifty or sixty yards iu length, together with a quan- tity of plantains and cocoa-nuts, were sent to Cap- [tuin Cook as a present from the Earee rahie of a leighbouring island, called Bolabola^ accompanied M\\i a message, that^le was theii on the island, [atnd Intended waitfeg^n the C^^ptain the next day.^ ^ On Sunday the 6th, the King of Bolabola did visit them agreeable to his promise ; his abse: however, was not in the least regretted, as he se three very agreeable young wonien to demand something in return For his present. After-dinner, they set out to pay the King a visit djs shore, as he did not think proper to coine on board. As this 1^ -m # 4 \^: m 'M AIN COOK^ man was the Earee rahie of the Bolabola meiu who had conquered this, and were the dread of all the neighbouring islands, they were greatly disappointed, instead of .Gliding a vjgQious, enterprising young Chief, to see a ponr^jBroie, decrepit old dotard, halfblind, and sinkin^lRtor the weight of age and infirmities. He receiVe^fflem without either that state or ceremoHy whiclv^'ihey had hitherto met kh among the otlver Chiefs. "^fhey had now plenty of Jjogs on board, but as Jsjcouid not be brought to eat any sort of Euro- peal^ grain, or any provender ' whateve^^iat the ship afforded, they were reduced to the dii&g^able necessity of killing them imniediately on the^3|^>'* in^ those islands ; and the fowls all died of a^^b- derin tl^k^head, with which they were seized ^o!i after thvas brought out, and a b£u:rel of porter tapped, '• - F2 ■ ^ '%\) # CAPTAIN COOK'S which proved to be as good as any they had ever drank in England On Thursday the Tth of October, they discover^^ land at west by north, and in the afternoon of next day, they came to an anchor opposite tfij mouth of a little river about a mile and a half fi oif 'the shore.^^|.The Captain, with Mr. Banks, I>B Solander, ,^m some other ijentlemen, accompanied by a partlplparines, went on shor€ftn the evening, in the pinnlice aiid yawl. Having left the pinnace at the entrance of the ri- ver, Captain^ook, Mr. Banks,^&c. proceeded a lit- tle farther ujfPvben they landed, and leaving the yawl to the care of some of their boys, went up to a few small houses which they saw at a little distance. Taking ^he advantage of their absence from the boat, soiiB^ of the native'^, who had concealed them- selves H€|iind the )>|[^hes, suddenly rushed oi^t, and ran towards it^ britndlshing the long wooden lances which they had in tleir hands in a threatening man- ner. The Cockswain fired a musketoon over their heads, which did not seem||| intimidate them ; he thAfired a second time o4^ their Jieads, but witli no^tter efifect ; alarmed at the situation of the boat, as they wer€ now got near enough to disciiarge their lances at it, the Cockswain levelled his piece at the«i, and shot one man dead on the spot. Struck "with astonishment at the fall of their companion, they retreated to the woods with the utmost pre- cipitation. The report of the gun soon brought the' advanced party back to the boats, and both the pinnace and yawl immediately returned to the ship. On Monday the 9th, in tlie morning, a great num- ber of the natives were seen near the place where the gentlemen in the yawlh?d landed the preceding evening* and the greatest part of them appeared to be unarmed. The long-boat, pinnace, antf yawl, be- ing ordered out, and manned with itiiarines and sail- ors. Captain Cook, together with Mr. Banks, the test <£ tile gentleiwen, and Tupia, went on shore. &r(d agail *.yx/s ^ ^1 FIRST VOYAGE. n af»d landed on the opposite side of the river, over against several Indians who were sitting on iti6 Kint 'hey started up as soon as the t^entlemen began and, and their intentions a])peared very hostile, andishing their weaponjr in the nsual threatening anfter; upon vhich a nnisket was fiwd at 6»inie distance from them, at the effect of which, the by 11 happening to strike the water, they appeared rather terrKied, and desisted from, thrir inei»nce». The marines lieing drawn up, the* Captain, with four or five of the gentleman, and Tupia, advanced near- ^rlp the side of the river ; Tupia spoke to them, anf!" informed them, that they wanted to traffic with them for provisions, I'hey readilv consented to trade, and requested the English gentlemen to cross the river, and come over to them, which was af^rcedgl^ i|[^n condition that the natives would quit tl^iM^pons j but this the most solemn as? surances of friendship could not prevail on them \o comply with. ^ The gentlemen In tliw ttirn entreated the Indians locomeover to them, which afitr some time ^y j)re vailed on one of them to do ; he was pr^ggntly followed by several others, bringing their with them. They did not appear to ^ct an IS value on the beads, iron, kc' which 4Bs p^fesWled to them, nor would they give any ^hing in return, hut proposed to exchange their weapons for those be- longing to the English, which being consequently obi- jected to, they endeavoured several timts to snatch them out of their hands. But their attempts to seize the arms were repeatedly frustrated, and Tu- pia, by direction of the gentlemen, gave them notice, that any further offer of violence would be punished with instant death Oneof tliemhad, nevertheless, the audacity to snatch Mr. Green's banger, and retiring a few paces, ilourislied it over his head ; he, however, paid fbr this temerity with his life, Mr. Monkhouse firing at him with a musket loaded with ball; and that gentleman afterwardsj with ^*f 72 CAPTAIN COOK'S I'l u ■t^ great difficulty, recovered the hanger, one of the In- ^ dians endeavouring to seize it. This behaviour of the natives, atM^fcl to Ae want of fresh water, inducid Captain Cook to Contif]y|| his course round the head ot the bay. He was in hopes of getting some of the Indians on board, ani by presents, addM^to civil usage, convey throu^ them a favburabl^llea of the English to ttheir f^low^ countrymen ; andthereby settle a good correspon- dence with them. Soon after an event occurred, though attended with disagreeable circumstances, that promised to facilitate this design. Two ca- Iroes appeared making towards land, and Captain Cook proposed intercepting them with his be||s. One of them got clear otF, but the Indians?*iii the oiher finding it impossible to escape the boats, began to attack them with their i^addles: this compelled the Endeavour's people to fire upon th^m. when j^ t|^^^ o^ ^^^ Ind'^ns were killed, and IM^ other tliree, who were youths, jumped into the wv^r, and endeavoured to swim toshore : they were however^] taken up and brought on^^oard. Tiiey were at first greatly terrified, thinking they sliould be killed ; btit Tupia, by repeated assurances of friendship* re- vmm^ their fears, and they aiterwards eat very h^fiyy of the ship's provisions. When they retired t^|S, in thifcvening, they appeared perfectly easy in tneir mimrs, and slept very quietly. The next inornirtg, after they were dressed and ornamented, According to the mode of the country, with neckla- ces and bracelets, Captain Cook proposed setting them on shore, that they might give a tavourable re- port CO theircouiitrymenofthe reception they hac met with. They testified much satisfaction whei told they were tube released : the names dl^these boys were Taahour.?.nge, Koikerange, and Ma- ragovete. They informed Captain Cook, that there was a particular kind of deer upon the island, likewise taro, eapes, romara, yams, a kind of long pepper, bald coote, and black birds. .On the Ilth Capt^n Cook set sa,il|in hopes of m FIRST VOYAGE. fe finding a better anchoring |»|^^p^after gh'ing this |)])ay (called by, the natives I'^ncora) the name of }^^vcTty Bay ; and the sout)w|pst t>oint he called m^ Mci^a Hcad^ «n ac^lnt ot its being; first [irceived by a iad on board named Nicholas trnnp ,^ Captain Cook gave the name«K'fl/ithers|j^0;^enace hostilities; butnot^ I withstanding Tupw; ^tjgojigly invited Uiem to come ion board, none of them would qtiit the canriC.^ [Whilst i^<=i Endeavour was getting clear of the^ shambles, five canoes full of Indians came off, and [seeme^tp threaten the people on board, by bran- Idishin^Seir lances, ana other hostile gestures ; a four pd^fOt^, loaded with gra])^ shot, was therefo^ ! ordered to be ilred, but nc^bihted at them. I'll' [had the desired effect, andjuade them drop asti^rn. Next morning nine canoes full of Indians camefrem [the shore, and iive of them, after having consulted tng;etlier, pursuied the Endeavour, apparently with a hostile design. Tupia was desired to acquaint them that immediate destruction would ensue, if they persevered in their attempts ; but words had ^ influence, and a four pounder, with grape shot, tsfiE^, to give them some notion of th^Pul^MH#ui^* believe in the existence }f a particular fip^o^ce. The Endeavour now )assed a small island, white and high, supposed to inhabited only by fishermen* as it appeared quite irren, and was named Bare Island, On the 17th»' paptain Cook gave the name of Cape Turn jlgain to a head land. This Cape is remarkable for a ytratiim of clay of a bright brown colour ; its pro- jfjL fiinence gradually diminishing towards the north ^1^ ide, but to the south its descent is not so regular. ^ »^ The land between this Cape and Kidnapper's Bay is unequal, and resembles the h^h downs oOEhglana*^ ^fhere appeared numerous inhabitants, and severaHl [villages. Wednesday the IJ^j^e Endeavour came [abreast of a peninsula in ^||t}and Island, named Ti^aAra^a, when a canoe, witn five . Indians, came lup to the ship. Tw6 Chj^fs who were in this canoe came on board,, 'Vflijei^ they remained all right, |j|d were treated w^ittf great civility. The Chie^^^j^ul^ neitlier eat ^ nor drink, but the ser- . rvants inaa^^i|6r their masters* abstinencexby their voracious ap^ptites. The three boj^s had ^f ^n these * I natives an account of the hospitality ^«id|libe*' rality of the English, which had preva^ed upon them to pay this visit. \ Thursday the 19th, the Endeavour passed a re-^ markable head-land, which Captain Cook named Gable End Foreland- It is distmguishedl)y a rock, in the shape of a church spire, l^Mpb is very near it. Here three canoes came up, s^^ne Indian came . on board ; l^i^eceived somell^i^l presents, aqd retired to \\\^ companions. He; ^vbre a new garment ^ E white silky flax, with a border of black, red, and ute. ■%. ■ Many of the Indians had pie^^i^pf green stone round tneir necks, by way of nec^aces ; they were ' transparent, like an emerald, and appeared on exa* * mination, to be a species of Nephritic-stone, of which ' all their ornaments of this kind consisted. Mr. Banks and the other gentlemen obtained several pieces of it. T^t* 76 CAPTAIN COOK'S On the 30th they anchorecLlMybay, about twu leagues to the north of the FtJitup- The natives in canoes invited them hither, wul behaved very aimicably. There appeared to be two Chiefs, who came on board. 'I'hey received presents of linen, •which ^ave them much satisfaction ; but they did not hold spike-nails in such estimation as the inhaibtantsJ ^^ of some of the other island.-- The Captain, Mrj ^K, Banks, and Dr. Solandcr, went on shore, and were ^courteously received by the irjiabitants, who did notj ^pear in numerous bodies, to avoid giving offence.j The Ca^ain had the^pleasure to find fresh water, in the.eourse of a tour round the Iwy. They rc- ipained on shore all mght, and next day Mr* Banks and the Doctor discovered several plants, and many birds, particularly quiils and large pigeonS' Dogs "with small pointed ears, and very ugly, were the only tame animals a^ong^ them- They have sweet potatoes, like those of Jjcrth America, in greatquan- tities; and the cio. plmJ^grows here jnqntaiie'ously There is plenty of ftsh in the bay, 1p% ^§^^ crabs, cray-fishf an J ship jacks or horse-matlLirel, which are la^loyed themselves in collecting plants. In theiif* route they found in the vales miny houses uninha^^' ^ bit ed, the natives residing chiefiyjn slight sheds on' the ridges of the hills, which are very steep. In the valley between two very high hills, they saw a curi'^' ous rock that formed a large etrch, opposite to the sea. This cavity was in length ^Si^ve seventy fect;^' in breadth thirty, and near fifty ia Height ; it coro-^ manded a view of the hills and the bay, which ha« iflKVV, FIRST VOYAGE 1^ bers of birds of diflfereilt Kinds, particularly ' oiie whose note resembled the European black-bird ; but here is no ground fowl or poultry, nor were there any quadrupt'ds, except rats and dogs, and these wer*^; not numerous- The dogs are considered as delicate food, and their skins serve for ornauu its to their appar* 1. Sunday, Oct 29th, they set sail from this bay, which is called by the natives Tolaga. 1 his is a very hilly country, though it presents the f ye with an aerceahjle verdure, various woods, and many small plantAlpins. Mr. Banks met with a great number of trees in tfie woods, ouite unknown to Europeans- The firewood resemblea the maple tree* and produced a gum of whitish colour. The only roots they met with were yams and sweet potato'^s, Sailing to the northward, they fell in with a small island, about a mile distant from the north-east point of the main; and this being the most eastern part of it, the Captain naiiicd it East Cape, and the island East Island : it was but small, and appear- ed barren. In the evening of the 30th, Lieutenant Hicks discovered a bay, to which his nan^e wa*i giv- en- Next momihg, about nine, several canoes came off from shore with a number of armed men, who appeared to have hostile intentions. Before these had reached the ship, raiother canoe, larger than any that had yet lieen aeen, full of armed Indians^ came off, and made towards the Endeavour with great expedition. The Captain now judging it ex- pedient to prevent, if pos&ll^le, their attacking him, ordered a gun to be nred over their heads ; this not producing the desired effect, another gun was fired wjth ball, which threw them into such con- sternation, tliat they immediately returned much faster than they came. This precipitate retreat in- duced the Captain to give the cape, off which it hap- pened, the name of Cape Runaway. Next morning, at day-break, they saw between forty and fifty canoes along shore, many of which came off in the manner they had done the day before, shouting. M CAPTAIN COOK'S U '.K *,* i * and menacing an attack. One of their CUiefii in the largest of the canoes made several harangues, and by the menacing flourish of hi« pike, seemed to bid the ship defiance ; but the gentlemen continuing to in- vhc them to trade, they at last came close along- side, and the Chief who had been declaiming, after uttering a sentence, took up a stone and threw it against the side of the ship, which appeared to be a declaration of hostilities, as they instantly seized their arms. One of them took some luien that %vas hanging to dry, and ;nade oif with it. A mus' kct was fired over his head to make himjteturn, but this did not prevail ; and even after anothet •was fired at him with small shot, which hit him in the backj he still persevered in his design. Upon this the rest of the Indians dropped astern at some distance, and set up their song of defiance- They did not, however, make any preparations for attacking th^ ship ; but the Captain judged, that if he suffered them to go off without convincing them of his power of avenging the insult, it might, giye an unfavourable opinion of the English to the natives on shore. He accordingly fired a (our-ppunder, •which passed over tbem, and the effect it had in the •water terrified them so greatly, that they made to the shore with the utmost precipitancy. In the af- ternoon thev descried a high island to the west, and some time after perceived some other if lands and rocks in the same quarter ; not being able to •weather them before night came on, they bore up between them and the n»ain land- About seven in the evening a double caiwe, built like those at Ota- heite, but carved after their peculiar manner, cam« up to the ship, and Tupia entered into a friendly conversation with the Indians on board ; when, on a sudden, it being now dark, they pelted the ship with stones, and then retreated. The Endeavour passed the night under an island about twenty miles from the main, which tbey Darned the Mayor. Iu the morning of the third, they gave the name of the Court or Aldermen .M\mA FIRST VOYAGE. 81 to a number of small islands that lay cojitigaous. The Chief, who governed the district from Cape Tuma^ain to this coast, was named Ttratu, On Friday the 4th,, three canoes came along-side with several Indians* These canoes were built very different from the others, being forip'^d of the trunks of single trees, made hollow by burnhig : they were not carved, or in any shape orramented. These Indians were of a darker complexion tlian the others, but made use of the same modes of de- fiance, and threw several stones, and some ot their landes into the ship. The same afternoon the Endeavour sailed to- wards an inlet they had disctjvered, and anchored in seven fathom water. She was soon after sur- rounded by several canoes, and the Indians at first did not shew any signs that they intended commit- ting; hostilities. One of the Endeavour's people sliot a bird, whxh the Indians conveyed on board, with- ont testifying any surprise at the event. For their civiHty the Captain gave them a piece of cloth- But this favour had a very opposite influence to what was expected, tV.i' when it grew dark they sun^; one of their menacing songs, ard attempted to carry off the anchor's buoy, Some muskets were now fired over them, which aeemed rather to irritate than terrify them, and upon their going off, they threaten- ed to return the next mornfng in greater numbers ; they came back however the same nigjit :.bout ele- ven o'clock, in hopes of surprising the ship's crew ; but finding them on their guard, they again retired- In the morning of the 5th, a great number of ca- noes, with near two hundred men, armed with spears, lances and stones, made their appearance, seemingly resolved to attack the ship, and detirou^ of boarding her, but could not determine at what; part, changing their stations, and paddhng round her. These motions kept the crew upon the watcl?, in the rain, "Whilst Tupia. at the request of the Cap- tain, used every dissuasive argument he could sugr gest to prevent carrying their apparent designs into G2 r / B2 CAPTAIN COOK'S m> execution; but his expostulations did ncu paciiy them, till some muskets were tired ; they then laid aside their hostile intentions, and began to trade. They sold two of their weapons without fraud, but a third, for which they had received cloth, they would not dehver up, and instead of paying any attention to the detit*^nd that was made of it, they only laugh- ed at them, and turned their expostulations into ridicule. As the Cap tarn proposed to stay some days at this place, that he might observe the tran- sit" of Mercury, he judged it expedient to chastise these people for their insolence and knavery ; ac- cordingly some small shot were fired upon the principal offender, and a musket ball went through nis canoe His conipanions left him to his fate, ^vithout taking the least notice of him, though he •was wounded, and continued to trade without any discomposure. They for some time traded very fairly, but returning to theirniul-practices, another canoe was fired upon, and struck : they soon alter paddled away, whilst a round uhfA was fired over them. Several of the Indians came off to the ship on the 5th, but behaved much better than they had done the preceding day. They had witti them an old man, •who had before testified his prohHy and discretion ; and he appeared to be of superior rank to the rest. He came on board with another Indian, ■when the Captain presented them with some nails, and two pieces of cJoth of English manufacture, Tojava (\^hich was the name of the old man) in- formed Mr. Banks, that the natives had been in great terror of the English ; when he was intormed that the Captain and his people had no ill design against the Indians, but, on the contrary, wanted to establish a friendly intercourse, and to traffic with them. Tojava then acquainted the Captain, that they •were often visited byfree-bootersfrom the north, who ^tripped them ot all they could lay their hands on, and often made captivfis of their children and wives ; 4^nd that bein^ ignorant who the EuigUsh were lupoo FIRST VOYAGE. S3 their arrival, the natives had taken the alarm upon the ship's appearing off the coast, but woie now sa- tisfied of their lifood intent. Probably, tlieir poverty and misery may be ascribed to the ravages ot this banditti, who often strip thesn of every necessary of life. The assurances of friendship which they had re- ceived from the gentlemen on lx)ard, seemed to havje a proper influence upon the natives, who were now very tractable and submissive. In a word, the na- tives now treated the English with great hospitali- ty; a large supply of wood and grod water was ob- tained, and the ship being very foul, vjas heeled, and her bottom scrubbed in the bay. Noveniber the eighth, the Indians supplied the ship's crew with as much excellent fish, resembling mackarel, as was sufficient for all their dinners, for which they gave some pieces of cloth. A great variety of plants were this day collected by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander ; they had never observed any ot the kind before. Early in the morning of the 9th, several canoes brought a prodigious quantity of mackarel, one sort of which was no way different from the mackarel caught on our coast. These canoes were succeed- ed by many others, equally well loaded with the same sort of fish ; and the cargoes purchased were so great, that when salted, they might be consider- ed as a month's provision for the whole ship's company. This being a very clear day, the astronomer (Mr. Green) and the other gentlemen, landed to ob- serve the transit of Mercury, and whilst the obser- vation was making, a large canc^e, with various commodities on board, came along side the ship ; aad Mr. Gorcj, the officer who had then the com- mand, being desirous of encouraging them to traf- fic, produced a piece of Otaheitean cloth, of more value than they had yet seen, which was Immedi- ately seiaed by one of the Indians, wlio obstinately xpivmd either lo iretiir» it^ ov to givf^ mY th^g la .1 : CAPTAIN COOK'S exchange ; he paid clearly, however, for his te^ merity, beirAg shot dead on the spot. The death of this young Indian alarmed all the vest ; they fled with ^reat precipitancy, and for the present could net be induced to renew their traffic with the English, But when the Indians on shore heard the particulars related by Tojava, who great- ly condemned the conduct of the deceased, they seemed to think that he merited his fate- His name proved to be Otirreeoonooe. This transaction happened, as has been mention- ed, whilst the observation was making of the tran- sit of Mercury, when the weather was so favour- able, that the whole transit was viewed vlthouta cloud intervening. Mr. Gret^ made the observation of the ingress, wriilst Captain Cook was engaged in aiscertaining the time, by taking the sun's altitude. IrA consequence of this observation having been ipade here, this bay was called Mercury hay. On the 10th, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and the Captain went in boats to inspect a large river that run* into the bay. Tliey found it broader some miles within than at the mouth, and intersected into a number of streamis, by several small islands, which were covered with trees. On the east side of the river the gentlemen shot some shags, which proved very good eating. The Indians sup before sun-set, when they eat fish and birds baked or roasted. A female mour- ner was present at one of their suppers ; she was seated upon the ground, and wept incessantly, at the same time repeating some sentences in a doleful manner, but which Tupia could not explain ; at the termination of each period she cut herself with a shell upon her breast, her hands, or her face; p . - withstanding this shoking bloody spectacle gre^ lly affected the gf^ntlemen present, yet all the Indians saw it with indifference. November 11th, great plenty or ovsters was pre- cured from a bed which had been discovered, and they proved exceedingly good. Next day the ship rmST VOYAGE/I 85 !d all the and for ;ir traffic on shore ho great- ed, they lis name cy eat mour- 10 was tly, at loleful at the vith a really dians pre- and ship was visited by two canoes, with mikliown Indians; after some invitation they came on board, and they all trafficked without any frand. They sailed from this bay »after taking possession of it jn the na me of the King of Great Britain, on the 15th of November. A 111! iJ^er of islands, of different sizes, appeared to- ward the north-west, which were named Mvrcury Inlands. On account of the number of oysters found in the river, the Captain gave it the name of Oyster river* The inhabitants, though numerous, have no plantations ; their canoes are very indifferently cou- titructed, and are no way ornamented. Upon this shore iron sand is in plenty to be found, . which proxies that there are mines of that metal up the country, it being brought down by a rivulet from thence. On the 18th, in the morning, the Endeavour steer- ed between the main and an island which seemed very fertile, and as extensive as Ulietea. Many ca- noes filled with Indians came along-side, and the In- dians sung their war soa^ ; the Ejideavour's people paying them no attention, they threw a volley of r , stones, and then paddled away ; hit they presently returned, and i^ne wed their insults. However, upon a musket l>eing fired at one of their boats, they made a precipitate retreat. In the e veiling they cast anchor in 23 fathoms water, and early the next morning they sailed up an inlet Th* Endeavour was now in a bay, called by the natives Ooahaouragee, and Captain Cook, wit^ Mr. Banks and Dr. Solandcr, 8cc. we^it in the boats to the bottom of the bay, to examine it, and they did not return tfll next morning. At the entrance of ^ w(K*d they met with a tree ninety-eight feet h'gh * froQii the ground to the first branch, quite straight, and nineteen feet in circumference ; and they found jtill larger trees of the same kind as they advanced into the wood^ The Captain called this river Tha^ies, being not unlike our river of that name* The ship, at their departure, was surrounded with canoes", which induced Mr. Banks to remain on - !'.■,) CAPTAIN COOK'S . board, that he might trade with the Indians, 'though the traders were honest in their dealing,! there was one amongst them who took a fancy toa| halt-minute glass, but was detected in secreting it, and he was punished with the cat-o'-ninetails. The I other Indians endeavoured to save him froA this punishment ; but being opposed, they got their arms from the canoes, and some of the people in the»n at- tempted to get on board. Mr. Banks and Tupiunow 'Coming upon deck, the Indians applied to Tupia, but he having no influence upon Mr. Hicks, the com- mandiiig officer, informed them of the nature of the! offenders intended punishment, which pacified them, as they imagined he was going to be put to Meath. The criminal not only received twelve | lashes, but afterwards a drubbing from an old man, "who was thought to be his father. t On the 23d they tided it down the river, and ob the 24th they steered along the shore, between the I islands and the main, and in the evening anchored io an open bay, in abouc fourteen fathonxs water. Here they caught a large number offish of the scienne.or brearti kind; from which the Captain named this] } Bream Bay^ and the extreme points of \tBrean\ Head' There are numbers of rocks off this bay, which were calk d the Hen and ChickenS' No in- habitants were visible ; but from the fires perceived | jiEt night, the gentlemen concluded it was inhabited > Sunday the 26th, Captain Cook continued his I course slowly along the shore to the north. This day two canoes came up, and some of the Indians' came on board, when they trafficked very fairly Two lai ger canoes soon after followed them, aiu) coming up to the ship, the people in them hailed t.He others, when they conferred together, and afterwards came along-side of the ship. The last two canoes were finely ornamented with carving, and the people, who apj>eared to be of higher rank, were armed ."with various weapons; they held in high estimation their Patoo Patoos^ which were made of stone and wl^alebone, and t,hey had ribs of whate with orna l*u;nia\w FIRST VOYAGE, j Wis. |iri6nts of dog's hair, which were very curious. j> These Indians seemed the superiors of the others ;''' they were nevertheless not free from the vice of pil- fering, for one of them having agreed to barter a •weapon for a piece of cloth, he was no sooner in poS"«i; session of the cloth than he paddled away withoutv "paying the price of it ; but a musket being fired, he'} [came back and returned the cloth. All the canoes? v [then returned ashore. ? The Endeavour passed a remarkable point of, [land, which the Captain called Ca/ie Bret^ in hc^our of the baronet of that name; this cape is much^ higher than any of the adjacent land. Within a^ mile to the north-east by north is a curious rocky [island ; it is arched, and has a pleasing effect at a distance. The natives call this Cafie Alotugogogo r It terms a bay to the west, which contains many /jmall islands, and Captain Cook named the point ati [the north-west entrance Pomt Pococke. The inha- bitants had the Same itch for cheating as the others. [One of the midshipmen was so nettled at being im- posed upon, that he had recourse to a whimsical ex- jpedient by way of n^venge ; taking a fishing line, he threw the lead with so much dexterity, that the* hoofer caught the Indian who had imposed upon him * by the buttocks, when the line breaking, the hook [remained in his posteriors. These Indians were strong and well-proportioned ; their hair was black,- and tied up in a banch stuck with feathers ; the Chiefs among them had garments made of fine cloth, ornamented with dog's skin ; and they were also ta • taowed. On the 27th the Enderivour was among a number of small islands, from which several canoes came off; but the Indians, from their frantic gestures, seemed disordered in their minds ; they threw their* ^ fish into the ship by h andfuls, without demanding any> thing by way of barter. Some otlier canoes ako came up, ivho suluted the ship with stones. One of the Indians, who was particnlarlv active, threw a stick V 1 «8: CAPTAIN COOK^S at one uf the Endeavour's men. It was tihen judged time to bring them to reason, and a musket with small shot was fired at him, when he fell down in the canoe. A general terror was now spread amongst them, and they all made a very precipitate jtJtreat Among the fisli obtained from these ca- noes, were Cavellea in great plenty, and for this reason the Captain called these islands by the same name- For several days the wind was so very unfavoura- ble, tliat the vessel rather lost than gained ground On the 29th, having weathered Cape Bret, they bor« away to leeward, and got into a large bay, where they anchored on the south-west side of seve- ral iiilands ; after which the ship was surrounded by thirty- three large canoes, containing near three hundred Indians, all armed. Some of them were adiT.itted on boards and Captain Clook gave apiece of broadcloth to one of the Chiefs, and some small presents to the others. They traded peaceably for some time, being terrified at the fire-arms, the effect of which they were not unacquainted with, but whilst the Captain was at dinner, on a signal given by one of their Chiefs, all the Indians quitted the ship, and they attempted to tow away the buoy ; a musket was now fired over them, but it produced no effect ; small shot was then fired at theiu, but it did not reach them. A musket loaded with ball, was tliere- fore ordered to be fired, and Otegooivgooiu (son of one of the Chiefs) was wounded in the thigh by it, which mduced them immediately to throw the buoy overboard. To complete their confusion, a round shot was fired, which reached the shore, and as soon as they landed they ran in search of it. If these In- dians had been under any kind of military discipline, they might have proved a much niere formidable enemy ; but acting thus, without any plan or regula- tion, they only exposed themselves to the annoyance of fire-arms, whilst they Could not possibly succeed in :iny of their designs. TThc Captain, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander, land* FIRST VOYAGE. 89 e«l upon tUe island. The gentlemen were now in a • small cove, and thty wsre presently surrounded by^- near four hundred armed Indians ; but the Capt&iii ^ not suspecting any hostile design on the part of the ^ natives, remamed peaceably disposed. The gentle-'?' men marching towards them, drew a line, intimating-v that tliey were not to pass it ; they did not infringe upon this boundary for some time, but at length theys sung the song of defiance, and began to dance, * whilst a party attempted to draw the Endeavour's* boats on shore. These signals for an attack beings ^ ' immediately followed by the Indians breaking in up- * ' 0^1 the line, the gentlemen judged it time to defend'^ themselves, and accordingly the Captain fired hi» * musket, loaded with small shot, which was seconded* by Mr. Banks discharging his piece, and two of the* men followed his example. This threw the Indians into great confusion, and tliey retreated ; but were » rallied again by one of their Chiefs, who shouted and waved his patoo patoo. The Doctor now pointed his musket at this hero, and hit him : this stopt his career, and he took to flight with the other Indians. They retired to an eminence in a collective body,* and seemed dubious whether they should return to the charge. They were now at too great a dis- tance for ball to reach them ; but these operations being observed from the ship, slie brought her broad- side to bear, and by firing over them soon dispersed them. The Indians had in this skirmish two of their people wounded, but none killedi Peace being thus ' restored, the gentlemen began to gather celei^ and other herbs ; but suspecting some of the natives were lurking about with evil designs, they repaired to a cave, which was at a small distance ; here they found the Chief, who had thai day received a pre- sent from the Captain ; he came forth with his wife and brotlier, and solicited their clennency. It ap- peared that one of the wounded Indians was a bro- ther of this Chief, who was under great anxiety lest the wound should prove mortal; but his grief was in a great degree ^evi%ted, when he was made ac- ♦ VQUl n . -.--... .- ,. .-r 90 CAI^AIN COOK'S quainted with the different effects of small shot and ball ; he was at the same time assured, that upon any future hostilities being 'Committed, ball would be used. This interview terminated very cordially, after some trifling presents were made to the Chief .and his companions. The prudence of the gentlemen upon this occa- sion cannot be much commended Had these four hundred Indians boldly rushed in upon them at once with their weapons, the musketry could have done very little execution ; but supposing twenty or thirty of the Indians had been wounded, for it does not appear their pieces were loaded with ball, but only small shot, there would have remained a suffi- cient number to have massacred them, as it appears they do not give any quarter, and none could have been expected upon this occasion. It is true, when the aliip brought her broad-side to bear, she might have made great havoc amongst the Indians ; but this would have been too late to save the party on shore. Being again in their boats; they rowed to another part of the same island, when landing and gaining an eminence, they had a very agreeable and roman* tic view of a great number of islands, well inhabited and cultivated. The inhabitants of an adjacent town approached unarmed, and testified gr^at hu- mility and submission. Some of the party on shore who had been very violent for having the Indians punished for their fraudulent conduct, were now guilty of trespasses equally reprehensible, having torced into some of the plantations, and dug up potar toes, rhe Captain upon this occasion shewed strict justice, in punishing each of the offenders with twelve lashes ; one of them being very refractory upon the occasion, and complaining of the hardship, thinking an Knglishman had a right to plunder an Indian with impunity, was flogged out of his opinion with six additional lashes Probably, his adding, ** that in this he had only followed the example of his superiors^ " might have had. no little \Teight ii* procuring him tjjis htst se«t?ncei , »» . . ^>^l:*l 10^ FIRST VOYAGE M \ On Tuesday the 5th, in the morning, they weigh- ed anchor, but were stxm becalmed, and a strong current setting towards the shore, they were driven in with such rapidity, that they expected every mo- iTient to run upon the breakers, which appeared above water not more than a cihle's length distance ; they were so near the land, that Tupia, who was totally ignorant of the danger, held a conversation with the Indians, who were standing on the beach. They were happily relieved, however, from this alarming situation liv a fresh breeze suddenly spring- ing up from the shrn'e. The bay which they had left was called the Baif of hhridiiy on account of the numerous islands it contains; they catchcd bnt few fish while they lay there, but procured great plenty from the natives, who are extremely expert at fishing. December 7th, several canoes put off and followed the Endeavour, but a breeze arising. Captain Cook did not wait for them. On the 8th, they tacked and stood in for the shore ; and on the 9th, came to a deep bay, which the Captain called Doubtlesa Bay. I'he wind prevented their puttir.g in here. They beat to windward four days, and made but little way. On the 10th, the land appeared low and barren, but was not destitute of inhabitants ; the next morning they stood in with the land, which forms a peninsula, and which the Captain named Kjitickk Foint, Another bav, that lies contiguous. Captain Cook called Sandy Bay ; in the middle of it is a high mountain, which vvas named Mount Camel, on account of its resembltng that aoimal. On the 16th, came off the northern extremity of New Zealand, which the Captain called North Cape. Their sit. r; on varied but little till the 24'th, when they di jcovjred land, which they judged to be the islands of die Three Kings, though they did not resemble the description of them in Dairy mple's account. Mr. Banks went out in the small boat, and caught some birds that greatly resembled geese, and they "we?e very good eating* ^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) i< 7. J^ % •if 1.0 I.I f."^ ■- Muu f.6 1.25 i 1.4 V] <^ /^ "1 ^> ■c*l ^^^ > ^> .'^ J>" /^ ''^i o 7 PhotDgttiphfc Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (7)6) 873-4503 '%>■ ^ V*''.^"? #7<^ i!'.^^ 92 CAPTAIN COOK'S January 1, 1770» they tacked and stood to «a$t- ward, and on the Sd they saw)and again ; it was high and flat, and trended away to the smith <"{»«^ beyond the reach of the naked eye. It is remarka^ ble, that tlie Endeavour was three w>eeks in making ten leagues to the westward. On the morning of the 4th they stood along the shore, the coast ap- pearing sandy and barren- They saw a sun-fisa^ short and thick in figure, with two large fins, rbut scarce any tail, resembling a shark in colour and size. On the 9th they saw a point remafkably hi^ lo the east-north-east ; the Captain named it MbetroB^ Pointy on the north side of which a bay is formed that promises good anchorage. At about two leagueg distant from Albetross Pdnt to the ndrlh^ast, they discovered a remarkable high mountain, equal !a height to that of Teneriffe, the summit of whiidh twas covered with snow, ai^ it was named Mmim M^mont, This da^^ some very heavy sliowers cC >ram fell, accompanied with thunder ami Itghtmng. The Captain proposed careenin^the s^ip here, aM taking jn wood and water ; and accordingly, «n the 15th, steered fur an inlet Here they saw a sea- lion ; it is a very curious creature, and answers the description given of it in Lord Anson's Voyage. In passing ths point of the bay, they observed an armed sentinel on duty, who was twice relie^^ed Fowt ca- noe^ii came from shore to visit the ship, but none of tte Indians would venture on boa^'d* except an old man, who seemed of elevated rank ; he was received with the utmost hospitality. The Captain and the ether gentlemen now went on shore, where they met with plenty of wood and water, and were very successful in fishing, catching some hundred weight in a short time. On the 16th, the Endeavour's people were engag- ed in careening her, when three canoes came cff with a great number of Indians, ami brought seve- ral of their women with t^em. This circumstance was judged a favourable presage of their peacoa- •> FIRST VOYAGE 9ii bte disposition, but they soon gave proofs of the con- trary, by attempting to stop the long-boat that was sent on shore for water, when Captain Cook had re- course to the old expedient of firing some shot, which intimidated them for the present- Tupia in conversing with them, and making many inquiries concerning the curiosities of New Zealand, aske4 them, if they had ever before seen a ship of the magnitude of the Endeavour ; to which they re- plied, they had never seen such a vessel, nor ever heard that one had been upon the coast. There is great plenty of fish in all the coves of this bay ; among others, here are cuttle-fish, large breams, small grey breams, small and large baracootas, fly- ing gurnards, horse-mackeral, dog-fish, soles, dabs, muUtts, drums, scorpenas, or rock-fish, cole-fish, shags, chimeras, &c. The inhabitants catch their fish as follows : their net is cyHndrical, extended by several hoops at the bottom, and contracted at the top ; the fish going in to feed upon what is put in the net, are caught in great abundance. There are also birds of various kinds, and in great numbers^ parti- cularly paiTots, wood-pigeons, water-hens, (lawks, and many diflferent singing birds. An herb, a spe- cies of JP/iiladt'l/ihus^vi3is used here instead of tea ; and a plant called Teegoomme, resembling rug- cloaks, served the natives for garments. The en- virons of the cove where the Endeavour lay, are co- vered entirely with wood, and supple jacks are so' numei*ous, thatit is with difficulty passengers can pursue their way ; here is a numerous sand-fly that is very disagreeable. The tops of many of the hills are covered with fern. The air of the country is very moist, and has some qualities that promote pu- tretaction, as birds that iiad been shot but a few hours were found with maggots in them. They dis- pose of their dead in a very singular manner : they tie a large stone to the body, and throw it into the sea. 1 he gentlemen saw the body of a woman which had been disposed of this way, but which by^ some accident had disengaged itself from the stoor, H2 94 CAFI AIN COOK'S .floating upon the >vater. The Capuin, Mr Banks, and the Doctor visited a cove, about tvfo miles from the ship. 1 here ivas a family of Indians, ivho "Were greatly alarmed at the approach of the gentle- men, all running away except one ; but upon Tu- nia's conversing with him, the others returned. They found, by the provisions of this family, that they were canibals, here being several human bones that had been lately dressed aiud picked ; and it ap- peared, that a short time before, six of their enemies having fallen into their hands, they had killed four, ^nd eaten them, and that the other two were drown- ^d in endeavouring to make their escape. They made no secret of this abominable custom, but answered Tupia, who was desired to ascertain the fact, with great composui^e, that his conjectures were just, that they were the bones of a man, and testified by signs that they thought human flesh delicious food. Upon being asked, why they had not eaten the body of the ^voman that had been seen floating upon the water; they replied, she had died of a disorder, and that moreover she was related to them, and they never ^te an^ but their enemies. Upon Mr. Banks* stiU testifying some doubts concerning the fact, one of the Indians diew the bone of a man's arm through his mouth, and this gentleman had the curiosity to bring it away with him. There was a woman in this family whose arms and legs were cut in a shock- ing manner, and it appeared she had thus wounded herself, because h.er husband had lately been killed and eaten bv the enemy. Some'of the Indians brought four skulls one day to sell, which they rated at a very high price. The brains had been taken out, and probably eaten, but the scalp and hair remained. They seemed to have been dried by Are, in order to preserve them from putrefaction. The gentlemen likewise saw the pail of a canoe, which was made of a human skuU. In II word, their ideas were so horrid and brutal " that they seemed to pride themselves upon their era* ^Uy Ana barbarity^ and took, a peculiar pteaiure In ¥ FIRST VOYAGE. t*A$> Shewing the manner in which they killed their ene- mies, it bein^ considered as very meritorious to be expert at this destruction. The method used was to knock them down with their patoo patoos, and then rip up their bellies- An amazing number of birds usually began their melody about two o'clock in ^:he mormng, and sere- naded the gentlemen till itie time of their rising. This harmony was very agreeable, as the ship lay at a convenient distance trom the shore to hear it. These feathered choristers, like the English night- mgales, never sing in the day time- On the 20th, Mr. Banks purchased of the old In- dian a man's head, which he seemed very unwilling to part with ; the skull had been fractured by a blow, and the brains were extracted, and like the otners it was preserved from putrefaction. From the care with w hich they kept these skulls, and the reluctance with which they bartered any, it was imagined they were considered as trophies of war, and testimonials of their valour. Some of the com- pany in their excursion met with fortifications that had not the advantage of an elevated situation, but were surrounded by two or three wide ditchesy with a draw-bridge, which, though simple in its structure, is capable of answering every purpose against the arms of the nativc;s. Not only those who are killed, but the prisoners likewise, are devoured by the vic- tors. From what has been related by' such lin- questionable authority, there can remain no doubt with the unprejudiced reader^ that the inhabitants of this part of the globe are canibals* The 22d was employed by Mr- Banks and Doctor Solander in collecting of plants- On the 24th they visited a hippah, which was situated on a very high rock, hollow underneath, forming « line natural arch^ fme side of which joined to tne land, and the oth«r rose out of the sea. This hippah was partly Surrounded with a pallisade. Here they met^ with a cross resembling a crucifix, which was ^ bmamented wiUi feathersi and wUcb was erected 96 CAPTAIN COOK'S as a monument for f. deceased person \ but they could not learn how l^is body was disposed of. On the 25th the ( aptain, Mr. Banks, and Doctor Solander went on shore to shoot, when they met with a numerous family, who were among the creeks catching fish. -They t>ehaved very civily, and re- ceived some trifling presents. The ship's com party were, on the 27th and 128th, engaged in making necessary repairs, and getting her ready for sea* The Captain went on sliore again, ami erected another pyramid of stones, in Which he put some bullets, beads, &C' as before, "With the addition of a piece of silver coin, and placed part of an old pendant on the top, to distin- guish it. Some of the people who had been sent ont to gather celery, met with several of the native?, among whom were some women, whose husbands had lately fallen into the hands of the enemy, and they were cutting many parts of their body in tlv; most shocking manner with sharp stones, in testimo* ny of their excessive grief. What made this cere* mony appear ridiculous as well as shocking, was, that the male Indians, who were with them, paid not the least attention to it, but with the greatest unconcern imaginable employed themselves in re- pairing son^e empty huts upon the spot. On Tuesday the 30th, two posts were erected, in* scribed with the ship'jtname, ^Ct as usual ; one was placed at the watering-place, with the Union flag upon it, and the other in the same manner, on tlie island of Motuara ; and the inhabitants being in- formed, that these posts were meant as memorials of the Endeavour having touched at this place, pro* mised never to de*%troy them. The Captain then named this inlet Queen Charlotte^fi Sounds and took possession of it in the name, and for the use of his Majesty, and a bottle of wine w^s drank to the * Queen's health. Towards night, on the S 1st, a brisk gale arose, at- " tended with heavy showers^ and the next monuDg FIHST VOYAGE. 97 became so very tempestuous, that the Endeavour had her hawser broke, and several cnsks of water that had been left on shore were washed away with the rain. - The 2d, 3d, and 4th of February were chiefly spent In preparuig for their departure, and purchasing £8h of the natives. On the 6th, in the mominr* the Endeavour sailed out of thebay, which the ship's company, from nn ab- horrence of the brutal custom that prevails here of eating men, €^\ed €anibal Bay. The natives about this sound are not above four htiii(dred in num* her; they are sca^ered along the coast, and live upon fern r^^bt and Hsli ; the tatter of which was the omy commodity tliev traded in. The Endeavour naving left the sound, steered eastward, and about six oxlock in the evening th^y iftre greatly alarifcied at their being carried, by the rapidity of the current, very close to one of the two islands which lie off Cape Kc]^maroo,at^e entrance c^the sound. The shm was in such imnr>iTient dan- ger, that they expectea, every minute, she would be dashed to pieces ; but letting go an anchor, and veering one hundred aiYd sixty fathoms of cable, she was brouglht qp, when they were not above two cables' length from the rocks: In this ntuation they were obliged to wait fdr the ebb of the tide, which was not tlTl after midnight At three o'clock in the morning they weighed anchor, and a finebreeaee springing up soon after, they were carried through tae streight with great velocity. At the entrance of the streight, on the north side, there is a small island, which was named Entry Island- On thfj 8th they were off Cape Palliscr, when they discovered that the land beared away to the north-east towards Cape Turnagain. Three ca- hoes came off in the af t^noon, with several people in them ; they made a good appearance, and their canoes were ornamented like those of the Indians of the northern coast* They came on board with great alacrity. One old man was tataowed in a very 98 CAPTAIN COOK'S remarkable manner ; he was likewise marked with a streak of red paint across the nose, and over both av, which contains several islands, behind which, if there be depth of water, there must be shelter from all vinds. Captain Cook called this Dusky-^ay, and it is remarkable for having five high peaked rocks laying off it, which look like the thumb and four fin- fers of a man's hand ; whence it was denominated 'oiKT Five Fingers. They had now almost passed the whole of the north-west coaat of Tovy Poenammoo; the face of the CQUjitry afforded nothing Avorth notice* Imt a FIRST VOYAGE. 9Q: ri<%c of rocks of a stupendous height* ** which Dr. Hawkes worth describes as totally barren and naked, except where they are covered with snow» which is 1. seen in large patches in many parts of them, and has probably lain there ever since the creation of the -world ; a prospect more rude, craggy^ And desolate ^ than this country afibrds from the sea, cannot possi- bly be conceived ; for as far inland as the eye can reach, nothing appears but the summits of rocks, ; 'which stand so hear together, that instead of val- leys, there is only (insures between thert." By the 27th they had sailed round the whole r country, and" determined to depart from the coast, as soon as they had taken in a stock of water. For this purpose the Captain went ashore in the long boat, and found ui excellent watering place, and a proper birt^ for the ship ; which bting moored, they i)egan fillinir tlieir casks; while the carjjenter and bis crew were employed in cutting wbod.' A coun-^ cilof the officers was now held, as to the passage they should take to England j when it was resolved to return by the East-Indies, and with that view to steer for the east coast of New -Holland, and then follow the direction of that coast to the north- ward. This resolution bdhig taken, they sailed at day- break, on Saturday, March 31, 1770, and taking their departure from an eastern pc^nt, which they had seen on the 23d, they called it Cape Fare- "WELL. The bay from which they sailed was named Admiralty 13at, and the two Capes therebf Cape Stephens, and Cape Jackson, the names of the then secretaries to the board of Admi- ralty. Abel Jansen Tasmen, a Dutchman, was the first European that made a discovery of New Zea- land, to which he gave the name of Staaten Land, that is, the land of the States General. Tas- jncn never went on shore, as the Indians attacked him seen afi^r be came tQ an anchor, in tl^ebay, tot so severe. Dogs and rats are the only quadrupeds that were seen,andofthelatteronly avery few. The inhabitants ht^ed tlie dogs for the sole purpose of eating them. '1 here ajrc seals and whales on the coast ; and they once saw a sea-lion. The birds are hawks, owls, auails; and there are song-birds, whose note iswon- oerfully meloidious. The insects are flesh-flies, bee- s, butterflies, sand-flies, and musquitoes. i ovy Poenammoo appears to be a barren coun- try, is very mountainous, and almost destitute of in- habitants- The sea which washes these islands abounds with flsh, which are equally delicate aud wholesome food. Thi-y seldom came to anchor but they catched enougk with hook and line only, to supply the whole ship's crew ; and, when they nshed with nets, every mess in the ship, except those who were too indo* lent, salted as much as supplied them when at sea for several weeks after. This country abounds with forests. Riled widll Very large, straight, and clean timber. Upwards ci four hundred species of plants were, found, aUb of v/hich are unknown in England, except g^dea night-shade, sow-thistle, two or three kinds cJ fem^ md one or two sorts of gras?, Th^xe is o/ily one ah|t}b FIRST VOYAGE. 101 OP tree in thi« country ivhich produces fruit, and that is a kind of berry almost taMeless ; but they have a plant which ^iswers all the uses of hcrop and flax, Thert are two kinds of thi!^ jplant, the leaves of one of which are yellow* and the other a deep red, and both of them resemble the leaves ot flags. Of these leaves they make lines and cordage, and ['stronger than any thing of the kind in Europe. The men of this country are as large as the larg* est Europeans* Their compkxion is brown, but little more so than that of^ a Spaniard They are fuU of flesh, but not lazy and luxurious ; and are stout and well-shaped. Tlie women possess not that delicacy which distinguishes the European la- dies; but their voice is singularly soft, which, as the dress of both sexes is similn^r* chiefly distinguishes them from the men. They have neither blatk cat- tle, sheep» hc^s, nor goats ; so that their chief food being fish, and that not at all times to be obtained* they are in dagger of dying through hunger They have a few, and but a rery tew dogs ; and when no fish is to be got, they have only vegetables, such as yams and potatoes, to feed on; and if by any acci- dent these fail them, their situation must be deplo* rable. This will account for their shockmg custom of eating the bodies that are slain in battle ; for he who fights through mere hunger* will not scruple to eat the adversary he has killed. The inhabitants of New Zealand are as modest and reserved in their behaviour and conversation as the most polite nations of Europe. The women in- deed were not dead to the softer impressions ; but their, mode of consent was, in tlieir idea, as harmless as tlie consent to marriage with us, and equally binding for the stipulated time. If any of the Eng- lish a&ressed one of their women, he was informed, that the consent of her friends must be obtainedf : which usually followed on. his making a present! This donef he was obliged to treat his temporary wife at least as deKcately as we do in England. A gentleman who sailed in the Endeavour, having VOL* I I . ^ 302 CAPTAIN COOK'S addressed ft family of some rank, received an An- swer, of which the foUowinii; is an exact translation " Any of these young ladies will thi|ik them- selves honoured by your addresses, but you must first make me a suitable present, and you must then come and sleep with ub on shore, for day-light must by no means be a witness of what passes be- tween ydu." These Indians anoint their hair with oil, melted from the fat of fish or birds* B(Ah sexes, but the men more than the women, mark thf- ir bodies with black stains, called Amoco- ^ Exclusive of the amo- CO, tliey mark themselves with furrows. These fur- rows make a hideous appearance, the edges being indented, and the whole quite black. The paintings on tlieir bodies resemble f.llagree work, and the fo- liage in old chased ornaments; but no two are painted exactly after the same model. The people of New Zealand frequently left the breech free from these marks, which the inhabitants of Otahcite adorned beyond any other. Their dress is formed of the leaves of the flag ^lit into slips, which are interwoven, and made in- to a kind of matting, the ends, which are seven or eight inches in length, hanging out on the upper side. One piece of this matting being tied over tne shoul- ders, reaches to the knt^es ; the other piece being wrapped round the waist, falls almost to the ground. The women never tie their hair on the top of their head, nor adorn it with feathers ; and are less anx- ious about dress than the men. Their lower gar- ment is bound tight round them, except when they go a fishing, and then they are careful that ^e men shall not see them. I'he ears of both sexes are bored, and the holes stretched so as to admit a man's finger. The orna- ments of their ears are feathers, cloth, bones, and sometimes bits of wood. They likewise hung to their ears by strings, chisels, bodkins, the teeth of dogs, and the teeth and nails of their deceased friends. The men we«r a piece of green talc, or ■# FIRST VOYAGE. • 103 whalebone, >vith the resemblance of a man carved on it, hanging to a string round the neck. They saw one man who had the gristle of his nqi^e perforat- ed, and V feather being passed through it, pro- . jected over each clieek. These people shew less ingenuity in the struc- ture of tlieir houses, than in any thing else belonging to them ; they are from sixteen to twenty-four tcet long, ten or twelve wide, and six or eight in height. The frame is of slight sticks of wood, and the walls and roof are made of dry grass pretiy firmly com- pacted. Someof them are lined with the bark of trees, and the ridge of the house is formed by a pole, which runs from one end to the other. The door Is only high enough to admit a person crawling on hands and knees, and the root k- sloping* There is a square hole near the door, serving both for window and chimney, near which is the fire-place. Some who can afford it, and whose ^milies are large, have three or four houses inclosed within a court-yard. Their clothes, arms, feathers, some ill-made tools, and a chest, in which ^all these are deposited, form all the furniture of the* inside of the house. Their hammers to beat fern- root, gourds to hold water, and basktfts to contain provisions, are placed without tl\e house. The canoes of this country are not unlike the whale-boats of New-Ejigland, being long and nar- row. The larger sort seem to be built for war, and will hojd from thirty to on&^Uundred men. One of these at Tolaga measured near seventy feet in length, six in width, and four in depth. It was sharp at the bottom, and consisted of three lengths, about two or three inches thick, and tied firmly together with strong plaiting ; each side was formed of one entire plank, about twelve inches broad, an4 about an inch and a halt thick, which were fitted to the bottom part with equal strength and ingenuity. Several thwarts were laid from one side to the other, to which they were securely fastene4i in order to strengthen the whole* 104 CAPTAIN taOOK'S " These vcsselJj are rowed with a kind of |>acld1e^ between five aiMl six feet in length, the blade vith a song, which is sung in concert ; every strain ending witli a loud and deep sigh. There is an ac* tivity and vigour in their dancing, which is truly ad- mirable ; and their idea of keeping tiane in music is such, that sixty or eighty paddles will strike at once againstthcbidesof their boats, and make only onp report. With regard to religion, they acknowledge one superior being, and several subordinate* Their mode of worsuip could not be learned, nor was any place proper for that purpose seen. A great similitude was observed between the dress, furniture, boats and nets of the New-Zealandr et s, and those of the inhabitants of the South-sea islands, which furnished a strong proof, that the common ancestors of both wei*e natives of the same country. Indeed the inhabitants of these different places have a tradition, that their ancestors migrat- ed from another country many ages since : and they both agree that this country was called HeXwigi;, But perhaps a yet stronger proof that their origin was the same, will arise from the similitude of theiy language, of which the following is a specimen : New-Zealand. Otaheite. Whahine, Taata, Mata, Ahewh, Faparinga, Ateraboo, Apeto, / Heromai, They sailed from Cape Farewell on the 31st of I4^cbi 1770^ a&d had me weather and a foir wint} I? Aheine, ji woman. Tata, JHeofile- Matau, The eyes. Eahoo, The nose. Paparea, Eoboo, The cheeks* The belly.. Pito, The navel. Harre mai, Come hither- 106 CAPTAIN eOOK'S fill the 9th of April, ^lien thejr saw a tropic-bird. On the 15th they saw an egg-bird and a gannct ; and on the day following a small land-bird perched 6n the riggmg, from which they concluded they ■were near land ; but they found no ground with 130 fathom- Al six o'clock in the morning of the 19th, they discovered land four or five leagues dis- tant ; the southernmost part of which was called Point Hicks, in compliment to Mr. Hicks, the first Lieutenant, who made the discovery of it. At noon thev discovered another point of the same land, vising in a round hillock, extremely like the Ram-Head at the entrance of Plymouth Sound, for which reason Captain Cook gave it the same name. What they had yet seen of the land was bw and e\'en, and the inland parts were green and covered with wood. They now saw three water-spouts at the same time, one of which continued a quarter of an hour. On Sunday the 22d they were so near the shore, as to see several of the inhabitants on the coast, who were of a very dark complexion, if not perfect negroes. On the 2rth they saw several of the inhtibitants walking along the shore, four of them carrying a canoe on their shoulders ; but as they did not at- tempt coming off to the ship, the Captain took Messrs. Banks and Solander and Tupiaintheyawl, and employed four men to row them to that part of the shore where the natives appeared, near which four small canoes laid close in-land* The Indians sat on the rocks till the yawl was within a quarter of a mile of the shore, and then ran away into the woods. The surf beating violently on the beach, l)revented the boat from landing. At five in the evening they returned to the ship, and a light breeze springing up, they sailed to the northward, where they discovered several people on * shore. They brandished their weapons, and threw themselves into threatening attitudes. The bodies, thighs, and legs of two of these wei^ painted with white streakB, and their faces \f ere «lmo9t covered FIRST VOYAGE. tor with a white powder. They talked to each other with great emotion, and each of them held a kind of cimeter in his hand. Tliey anchored opposite a village of about eight houses, and observed an old woman and three childrencomeoutof a wood » laden wtrh fuel for ^ fire : all of them, as well as the woman, were quiet haked* The old woman frequently looked at the ship with the utmost indiffercr.ee, and, as soon as she had made a fire, they set about dressing their dinner with as much composure, as if a ship had been no extraordinary sight Having formed a design of landing, they tjnanned the boats^ and took Tupia with them ; and thej)^ had no sooner come near the shor^, than two men advanced, as if to dispute their setting foot on land. The captain threvv tnem bisads, nails, and other trir fies, which they took up, and seemed to be delight- ed with. He then made signs that he wanted water, and used every possible n)eans to convince them that na injury was intended. They now made signs to the boat's crew to land, on which they put the boat in ; but they had no sooner done so, than tht two Indians caii»e again to oppose them. A musket was noW fired between them, on the report of which one of them dropt a bundle of lances, wnich he instantly snatcned up again in great 'haste- One of them then threw a stone at the boat, on which the Captain ordered a musket loaded with small shot to be tired, which wounding the eldest of them on the legs, he retired hastily to one of their houses, which stood at some little distance. The people in the boats now landed, imagining that the wound which this rtian had received would put an end to the contest; in this, however, they were mistaken, tor he immeiliately returned with a kind of shieldiof an oval figure, painted white in the middle, with two holes cut in it to see through. They now ad- vanced with great intrepi have heen left by the tide^ a fish about the size of a minnow, having ^wo strong breast finst with which it leaped away as njimble as a frog : it did not appear to be weakened by being out of water, nor even to pre- fer that elemeat to the land ; for when seen iu the "Water it leaped on shore» and pursued its wajr. It "wa^- likewise reniarked, that where there were small stones projecting above the water, it chose ra- ther to leap froip one stone to another than to swim. There was no good water to he found here, therefore they did not lay the ship ashore as they intended. On Tuesday, they saw very large Columns of si9oke rising from the low lands.- This day they gave name to Ci^kaveland Bay, the east point of which was called Cape Cleavelano, and the ivest Magnetical Isle, because the compass did not traverse well when tliey were near it. Hence they ranged m)^th^ya^d aloqg the shore, towards a cluster o( islands, on one of which about forty men, "Women, and children were strinding together, and lookmg at the ' ship with a curiosity never observed among these people before. Here Messrs. Banks ancl-Solander went on shore with the Captain, whose ci^i^;view was to procure water, which not being easi- ly to be^ot^ they soon retiinied on board, and the next day arrived near Trin^ity Bay, which was ^ Galled bfecause it was discovered on Trknty Sun- day. As no acJtIdent temarkably unfortnnatehad befal' len our adventurers, during a navigation of more than thirteen hnnd^*ed miles, upon a coast every vrhere abounding W[ith the most dangerous rocks and shoals ; no name expres^ve of distress had hitherto been given to any cape or point of land -which th^y had seen. Biit ^y now gave the name- ^Cap« TaiBVLATipi^ t$A|)oint whicb^they had FIRST VOYAGE. 113 just discovered, as they here became acquainted with misfortune. ^ This cape is sixteen degrees six mhiutes south latitude, and 214 degrees 39 minutes ^est longitude^ To avoid the danger of some rocks, they shortened siiil, and kept standirtg off from six o'clock in the evening till near nine, with a fine breeze and brigfht moon. They had got fi*om fourteen into twenty-on6 fathom water ; when suddenly they fell into twelve, ten, and eight fathom in a few minutes. Every man was instantly ordered to his station, and they were on the point of anchoring, when, on a sudden, they had again deep water, so that they thought all dan*- {rer was at an end, concluding they had sailed over the tail of some shoals which they had seen in the evening. They had twenty fathom and upwards be- fore ten o'clock, and this depth continuing som6 time, the gentlemen, who had hitherto been upon deck, retired to rest ; but in less than an hour the water shallowed at once from twenty to seventeen fathom, and before soundings could be again taken, the sliip struck against ^ rock, and remained fixed^ but from the motion given her from the beating of the surge. Every one was instantly on deck, with countenances fully expressive of the agitation of their minds. As they knew they were not near th^ shore, they concluded they had struck against a rock of coral, the points of which being sharp^ and th« surface so rough, as to grind away whatever is rub* bed against it, though with a gentle motion, thef had reason to dread the horror of their situa-* tion ! The sails being taken in, and boats hoisted out to examine the depth of water, they found that the rhip had been carried over a ledge of tlie rock, av^ lay in a hollow \Yithin it. Finding that the water waft deepest eastern, they carried out the anchor from the starboard quarter, and applied their whole force to the eapsCem, in hopes to get the vessel off, but ia vain. She beat so violently against the rock, that the crew could scarcely keep on their legs. The VvJLj. \f Ik 114 CAPTAIN COOKS moon now shone bright, by the light of which they could see the sheathing boards float from the bot- torn of the vessel ; till at l(*ngth the false keel fol< lowed, so that they expected instant destruction; Their best chance of escaping seemed now to be by lightening her ; but as they had struck at high wa- ter, they would have been but in their present situ- ation, after the vessel should draw as much less wa- ter as the water had sunk : but tlierr anxiety abated a little, on finding that the ship settled to tne rocks as the tide ebbed. They, liowever, flattered them- selves, that if the ship should keep together till next tide, they might have some chance of float- ing her. They therefore instantly started the water in th« hold, and pumped it up. The decayed stores, oil-jars, casks, ballast, six of their guns, and other things, were thrown overboard^in order to get at the heavier articles ; and in tlvis busines^s they were employed till day-break, during all which time it was observed, that not an oath was sworn ; so much Vftrc the minds of the sailors impressed wiil^a sense of their danger. At day^light they saw land at eip'ht leagues dis- tance ; but not m single i&land between them and the main, on which part of the crew might have been landed, while the boat went on shore with the rest; so that the destruction of the greater part of them "would have !)een inevitable, nad the ship gone to pieces. It happened, however, that the wind died away to & dead calm before noon. As they ex- pected high water at eleven o'clock, every thing "was prepared to make another effort to free the ship ; but the tide fell so muth short of that in the night, that she did not float by eighteen inches, though they had thrown overboard near fifty tons weight; they now, therefore, renewed their toil, and threw overboard every tiling fhat could possi- bly be spared. As the tide fell, the water poured in so rapidly, that they could scarcely keep her free Itif the constant working of two pumps. Their only hops now depeuued on thj^ mkluight tide* and pre- 1 • ' » ^ VWW^''''^ FIRST VOYAGE. US parations were accordingly made for another effort to get the ship off. Tlie tide began to rise at five o'clock, wlicn the leak likewise increased to such a degree that two more pumps ^^€re manned ; hut only one of them would woi'k ; three, therefore, ■were kept going till nine o^clock, at which time the ship righted ; but so much water had been admitted ky the leak, that they expetited she woukl s'mk as soon as the water should bear her off the rock. Their situattQB was now deploi*able beyond description ; and the iimtgination must paint what would baffle the powers of language to describe. They knew that nvhen the fatal moment should arrive, all authority would be at an end. The boats were incapable c« conveying them all on shore ; and they dreaded a contest for the preference, as more shock ing than the shipwreck itself; yet it was considered, that those who might be left on 'board, would eventually meet with a milder fate than those who, by gaining the shore, woulxl have no chance but to linger the remains of life among the rudest savages in the universe, and in a country where fire-arms would barely enable them tosuppt^ita wretched existence. At twenty minutes after ten the ship floated, and was heaved into deep water ; when they were hap- py to find she did not admit more water than she had done before ; yet as the leak had for a conside- rable time gained on the pumps, there was now tliree feet nine iiKhes water in the hold. By this time the men were so worn by fatigue of mind and body, that none of tjhem couid pump more than five or six minutes at a time, and then threw themselves, quite Bpent, on the deck, amidst a stream of water which came from the pumps. The succeeding man being fatigued in lus turn, threw himself down in the same manner, while the former jumped up and re- newed his labour, thus mutually struggling for life, till the following accident bad like to have given them up a prey to absolute despair. Between ihe inside lining of the ship's bottom, which is called the ceiling, and the outside planking, u« CAPTAIN COOK'S ^berjB ia a space of about Be%'cntecn or eightetii inches* The man who had hitherto taken the depth of water at the well, had taken it no farther than the ceiling ; but being now relieved by another persou, -who took the depth .to the outside planking, it ap- peared by this mistake, that'the leak had suddenly gained upon the pumps, the whole difference be tween the two plankings- This circumstance de^ prived them of all hopes, and scarce any one thi^ght k worth while to labour for the longer presu;vation of a life which must so soon have a period. «ut the mistake was soon discovered ; and the joy aris- ing from such unexpected good news inspired the men with so much vigour, that before eight o'clock in Uie morning they had pumped out considerably inorc water than ihey had shipped. They now talked confidently of getting the snip into some har- bour, and set heartily to work to get in their an- chors ; one of which, and the cable of another, they lost ; but these were now considered as trifles* Having a good breeze from the sea, they got under sail at eleven o'clock, and stood for land* As they could not discover the exact situation of the leak, they had no prospect of stopping it within- side of the vessel; but the following expedient, "which one of the midshipmen -4iad formerly seei^ tried with success, was adopted. I'hey took an old studding-sail, and having mixed a large quantity of oakam and wool, chopped small, it was stitched down in handfuls on the sail, as lightly as possible ; the dung of their sheep and other faith being spread ever it. Thus prepared, the sail was hauled under the ship by ropes, which kept it extended till it came under the leak, when the suction carried in the eakum and wool from the surface of the sail. This experiment trucceeded 90 well, that instead of three pumps, the water was easily kept under with one. They hitherto had no further view than to run the ship into an harbour, and build a vessel from her materials, in which they might .each the^jE^ast-Ju- FIRST VOYAGE. iir dies ; but th^y now began to think of finding a pro- pei'i place to repair her damage, and then to pursue their voyage on its original plan. At six in the even* ing they anchored seven leagues from the shore ; and found that the ship nrvade filteen inches water an hour, during the night; but as the pumps could clear this quantity, they were not uneasy. At nine in the morning they passed two islands, which were called Hope Islands, f^cause the reaching of them had been the object of their wishes at tlve time of the shipwreck. In the afternoon the master was sent out with two boats, to sound, and search for a harb ur where the ship might be repaired. They anchored at sun-set in four fathom, two miles from the shore- One of the n»ates being out in the pin- nace, returned at nine o'clock, reporting;, that he had found just such a harbour as was wanted, at ihe distance of two leaguers. At six o'clock the next 'morning they sailed, hav- ing previously sent two boats a-htad, to lie on the shoals that they saw in their way. I'hey soon anchor- ed about a mile from the shore, when the Captain went out, and found the channel very narrow, but tJie harbour was better adapted to their present purpose than any place thej; had st en in the whole course of their voyage. As it blew very fresh this day and the following ni^ht, they could not venture to run into the harbour, but'remained at anchor dur- ing the two succeeding days, in the course of which they observed four Indians on the hills, who stopped and made two fires. The men by this time began to be afflicted with the scurvy, and their Indian friend, Tiipia, was so bad with' It, that he had livid spots on both his legs, Mr, Green, the astronomer, was likewise ill of the same disorder ; so that their being detained from landing was evjewf way disagreeable. The wind continued fres^! tra Su^iday the 17th, but they then resolved to .pa«h in for the harbour, and twice run the ship a-jground ; the second time of which she ^'^uck fcistiton which they tookitLc bottoms, fore- T K2 'A ^ }t^ CAPTAIN COOK'S yards, and fore top masts do^vn, ai\d made a raft on the side of the ship ; and, as the tide happened to be rising, she floated at one o'clock. She was now soon got into the harbour, where she was moored along the side of a beach, and the anchors, cables, &c. immedmtely taken out of her. On Monday morning they e ected a tent for the sick, several of whom were brought on shore as soon as it wa^s ready for their reception- They like- ivise built a tent to hold the provisions and stores, ■which were landed the same day. The boat was now dispatched in search of fish for the i^efresh- ment of the sick, but she returned without getting any ; but Tupia eni ployed himself in angling, and living entirely on the produce of his industry, re- 4;overed his health very fast, Mr. Banks, in an ex- cursion up the country, saw the frames of several Indian houses, which appeared to have been aban- doned sf me time : while the captain, having ascend- ed one of the highest hills, observed the high land to be stony and barren, and the low land near the river over-run with mangroves, among which the salt water flowed every tide. On Tuesday the Captain ordered the smith's forge to be set up, and directed the armourer to prepare the necessary iron work for the repair of the vessel. He likewise ordered out the officers' stores, water, &c. in order to lighten the ship. This day Mr. Banks crossed the river to view the coun- try, which was little less than sand-hills. He saw vast flocks of crows and pigeons, of the latter of •which he shot several, which were most beautiful birds. On the day following, as they were remov- ing the coals, the water rushed in, near the foremast, about three feet from the keel ; so that it was le- solved to clear the hold entirely ; wherefore they took out all t»4e coals, and the next day warped the ship higher up the harbour, to a station proper for laying her a-shore, in order to stop the leak. Early m the morning of the 22d the tide left the |hip, and they proceeded to examine Ui€#ak, whe^ FIRST VOYAGE. Jl9 they found that the rocks had cut through four planks into the timbers, and that three other planks were damaged. In these bre^iches not a splinter was to be seen, the whole being smooth, as if cut away by an instrument : but the preservation ©f the vessel was owing to a very singular circumstance. One of the holes was large enough to have sunk her, even with eight pumps constantly at work ; but this bole was in a great measure stopped up by the fragment of the rock being left sticking in it. They likewise found some pieces of oakum, wool, &c. which had got between the timbers, and stopped many parts of the leak which had been left open by the s.one. Exclusive of the leak, great damage was done to various parts of the ship's bottom. While the smiths were engaged in mnking nails and bolts, the carpenters began to work on the ves- sel ; and some of the crew were sent across the ri- ver to shct)t , piget^ns tor the sick. These people found a stream of fresh water, discovered many In- dian houses, and had sight of a mouse-coloured ani- mal extremely swift, and about the size of a grey-'* hound. On the 23d they saw plenty of fish, but catched only three. This day many of the crew saw the animal above mentioned; and Oi.*^ of the seamen declared he had seen the Devil, which he described in the following words. ** He was as large, says he, as a one gallon keg, and very like it ; lie had horns and wings, yet he crept so slowiy through the grass, that if I had not been a/ecred^ I migh* have Urn died him.'* It appeared af ter w ard^, that this poor fellow had seen a bat, which is almost black, and as large as a partridge; and his owi: ap- prehepsions had furnished his devil with horns- The Captain and Mr. Banks saw the anicfiat above mentioned, which had a long tail that it car- ried hke a {greyhound ; it leapt like a deer, and the print of its toot resembled that of a goat. The vessel was now in a position which threw all the water abaft ; and Mr. Banks having removed hiswhote colkction of pkwi^s mtq tlie bread-roo^^ f « 1:^0 CAPTAIN COOK'S they were this day found under water, by which some of them were totally destroyed ; but, by great care, most of them were restored to a state ol preservation. On the 29th, the boat took as many fish as allow^ cd a pound and a half to each man. A midshipman saw a wolf exactly resembling those of America. Mr. Gore also saw two straw-coloured animals^of the size of a hare, but shaped Hke a dog. So much fish was taken, that each man had two pounds and a half ; and plenty of greens were gathered, which being boiled with the peas, their fare was deemed excellent. Cockles were found by the master so large, that f)ne of them was more than sufficient for two men ; and likewise plenty of other shell-fish, of which he brougiit a supply to the ship. This day they suc- ceeded in an attempt to float the ship ; when they found that, by the position she had lain in, she had sprung a plank, so that it was again necessary to lay her ashore. An alligator swam by the ship several times this day. Mr. Banks and a party made an excursion up a river, and on the 8th they saw several animals, one of which was judged to be a wolf. At night they made a fire, and took up their quarters on the banks of the river ; but the night was rendered extremely disagreeable by the stings of the musquitoes, which pursued them into the smoke, and alntost into the fire. At break of day they set out in search of game, and saw four animals, two of which were chased by Mr. Banks' greyhound ; but they greatly out- stripped him in speed, by leaping over tlie long thick srass, which incommoded the dog in running. It was observed of this animal, that he leaped or bounded forward on two legs, instead of running on four. The tide favoui'mg their return, they lost no time in getting back to the ship. The master, who had been seven leagues at sea, returned soon after Mr. B||ks, bringing with him three turtle, which he FIRST VOYAGE. 121 ttxik with a boat*book, and which together weired near eight hundred pounds. In the morning tour Indians, in a-small canoe, we!% within sight. They soon came quite along-side the ship ; and having received presents, landed where Tupia and a few sailors were onshore^ They had each two lances, and a stick with which they throw them. Advancing towards the English, Tu- pia persuaded them to lay down their arnns, and sit by him, which they readily did- They staid with him till dinner-time, when he made signs of invita- tion for them to go to the ship and eat ; but this they declined, and retired in their canoe. These men were of the common stature, with very small limbs ; their complexion a deep choco- late; their hair black, either lank or curled, but not of the wool kind. The visit of three of these Indians was renewed the next morning, and they brought with them a fourth, whom they called Yapakico, who appear-* ed to be a person of som« consequence* The bone of a bird, about six inches long, was thrust through the gristle of his nose : and indeed all the inhabitants of this place had their noses bored, for the reception of such an ornament. These people being quite naked, the Captain gave one ot them an old shirt, 'vvhich he bound round his head like a turban, in* stead of using it to cover any part o£ his body. They suddenly leaped into their canoe, and rowed off, from a jealousy of some of the gentlemen who were examining it The canoe was about ten feet long, and calculated to hold four persons ; and when it was in shallow water they moved it by means of poles- ♦ On the 14th Mr- Gore shot one of the mouse-co- loured animals above-mentioned. It chanced.to be a young one, weighing no more than thirty-eight pounds ; but when full grown they are as large as a sheep. The skin of this beast, which is called Mnguroa, is covered with short fur, and is of a dark mouse colour ; the head and ears are somewhat ** 122 CAPTAIN COOK'S like tliose of a hare; this amnial was dressed for ciiimer, and [)rov>ed line eating. The natix^es being now become familiar with the ship's crew, one of tliem was desired to throi^his lance, which he did with such dexterity and force, that though it was not above four feet from the ground at the highest, it penetrated deeply into a tree at the distance of fifty yards. The natives now went on board the ship, and were well pleased with their entertainment. On the 19th they saw several oi the women, who, as well as the men, were quite oaked. They were this day visited by ten ot the natives, who seemed resolved to have one of the tfurtle that was on board, which they repeatedly made signs for, and being as repeatedly refused, they expressed the utmost rage and resentment ; and one of them, in particulari having received a denial from Mr* Banks, he stamped, and pushed him away in the most violent manner. At length they laid hands on two of the turtles, and drew them to tlie. side of the ship where the canoe lay ; but the sailors took them away They made several simi- lar attempts, but being equally unsuccessful, they leaped suddenly into their canoe and rowed off. At this instant the Captain, with Mr* Banks, and five or six seamen, w«it ashore, where they arrived be* fore the Indians, and where many of the crew were already employed. As soon as the Indians landed, one of them snatched a fire-brand from under a pitch-kettle, and running to the windward of what effects were on shore, set fire^to the dry grass, which burnt rapidly, scorched a pig to death, burnt part of the spsiith's forge, and would have destroyed a tent of Mr. Banks*, but that some sailors caAe from the ship just in time to get it out of the way of the flamev In the interim the Indians went to a place where the fishing-nets lay, and a quantity ot liacn was laid out to dry, and there again set fire to the grass, in spite of all persuasion, and even of threats. A musket loaded with small shot waa now fired, and one of them being wounded, they ran off. This HRST VOYAGE. 12^ a^ond fire was easily extinguished, but the other burnt far into the woods, ii* The natives continuing still in sight, a musket charged with ball was fired near them ; upon hearing which they soon got out of sight : but their voices being soon heard in the woods, and seeming to come nearer, the Captain, with a few of the men, went to meet them. When they were in sight of each other, both parties stopped, except an old In- dian, who advanced before the rest a little way, but soon halted^ and speaking a few words, retreated to his brethren, and they all retired together. The English having seized some of their darts, followed them about a mile, and then sat down, the Indians sitting about a hundred yards from them,^ The old man again came forward, having in his hand a lance with a point. He stopped and spoke several times^ on which the Captain made signs of friendship. The old Indian now turned to his companions, and having spoken to them» they placed their lances against a tree» and came forward as in friendship ; whereupon their darts which had been taken, were returned, and the whole quarrel seemed to be at an end. When Captain Cook got on board, he saw the woods burning at the distance of two miles. The master having been sent to search for a pas- sage to the northward, returned with an account that he could not iinil any. By the night of the 20th , the lire had extended many miles round them on the hills. On the 22d they killed a turtle, through both shoulders of which stuck a wooden harpoon, which the Indians had stricken it with, and the wound was quite healed. The next day one of the seamen, who had strayed from his company, met with four Indians at dinner : he was alarmed at thi» unexpected meeting, but had prudence enough to conceal his apprehensions, and sitting down by them, gave them his kiiife, which having aUlooked at, they returned. He would then have left thepi ; but they chose to detain him, till, by feeling his hands ^nd face, ♦hey were convinced he was, made of \ t'*^ iT" 12A CAPTAIN COOK'S flesh and blood like themselves. They then di«. missed him, directing him the nearest way to the ship. On the 26th, Mr. Banks catched a female am* mal, called the Ofiottsum^ with two young ones. . On the 4th of August they put to sea, the pinnace going ahead to keep sounding, and at noon came to an anchor ; when the Captam gave the name of Cape Bedford to the northernmost point of land in sight, and that of Endeavour River to the harbour which they had quitted. * The provisions they obtained while in this har* bour, consisted of turtle, which they went some miles to sea to catch ; oysters of three diiferent sorts, largis cavalhe or scomber, large mullets, some 'flat flsh, a great number of small scombri, and skate or ray "fish; purslain, wild beans, tshe tops of co- coas,*and caboage palms. Of quadrupeds there are goats, wolves, and pole-cats, and a spotted animal of the viverra kind ; and several kinds of serpents, only some of which are venomous. Dogs are the only tame animals. On the 4th, such a quantity of fish was catched, as allowed a dividend of two pounds to each man- Dur* ing the six following days they strugglo4 mcitt* ^i dos- Fish^ FirC' Water- Earth- The 8U7V To ear- To drink. To (TQ. We shall now proceed to give an account of tlieir passage from New South Wales to New Guinea, with a recital of the incidents with happened on their landing on the last mentioned country. Early in the morning of the 24th of August, ir70, the cable broke, near the ring, in the attempt to weigh the anchor ; on which another anchor was dropped, which prevented the ship driving. Deter- mined, however, not to lor.e the anchor, tney reco- vered it the next morning. Soon after the anchor was weighed, the ship got under sail, steering north-west, and in a few hours one of the boats, which was ahead, made the sig- nal for shoal- water* The ship instantly brought-to, ivith all her sails standing- It was now found that she had met with another narrow escape, as she Was almost encompassed with shoals ; and was like- wise so situated between them, that she must have struck before the boat's crew had made the signal, if she had been half the lengtli of a cable on either ^ide. In the afternoon she made sail v\ ith the ebb tidfe, and got out of danger before sun-set. Next morning, the 28th, they pursued their voy- age again, steering due north- The ship now held this course, barely within ^ght of land, till the 3d of September ; ar»d as tiie water was but just deep enough to navigate tl).e ves- 1321 CAPTAIN COOK'S sel, many unsuccessful attempts were made to bring her near enough to get on shore : it was therefore determined to land m one of the boats, -while the ship kept plying off and on. ^ in coiisequence of this resolution, on the 3d cf September, the Captain, accompanied by Messrs, Banks and Solander, and attended by the boat*s crew and Mr. Ranks' servant, set out in the pin- nace ; but when they came within two hundred yards of the shore, the water was so shallow, that they were obliged to leave the boat to the care of two of the sailors, and wade to land- They were no sooner clear of the water, thau they saw several prints of human feet on the sand, below high-water- mark, whence it was evident, that the natives had been very lately there. Our adventurers were now near a quarter of a lliile from the pinnace, when three of the natives ran out of the woods, about one hundred yards bevond them, shouting in the most violent manner. They instantly ran towards our countrymen, the first of the three throwhig something out of his hand, which flew on one side of him, burning in the same manner as gunpowder, but making no noise, while the other two threw their lances. The English now 'fired, when the natives stopped, and cast another lance, on which the muskets were loaded v»ith ball, and again fired. The poor Indians now ran off witri expedition, having, most probably, been wounded in the unequal conflict- Captain Cook and his com- panions, UP. willing farther to injure those who C""iild not originally have int»^nded them any haim, retreat- ed hastily to the boat, which having reached, they rowed abreast of the natives, who by this time y/ere Assembled to the number of about eighty* Their stature was nearly the same with that of the inhabi- tants ot New Scuth Wales, but their colour was not quite so dark. During the survey that was takea of tliem, the> continued Jeahigofftheirfires,a fe»* at a time, in a kind of regular platof ms ; they were dis- charged by me:*ns of a piece of stick, aimost like a h9llo)y cane,^irhich being swung sideways, produced FIRST VOYAGE. ^'JKi . wWa. hre and smoke, exactly .like that occasioned by tW^' firing of small arms. The crew on board the s^ipsaw this strange phenomenon, and thought the natives had fire-arms. The gentlemen having satisfied their curiosity, by attentively looking at i these people, fired some muskets above their heads, the balls from which being heard to rattle among f the trees, the natives deliberately retired- The Ian- a ces which had been thrown after the gentle mcrf landed, were made of a reed cr bamboo cane, ^ndt the points were made of hard wood, barbed in seVe^; ral places ; it is imagined, that these laiices w^re discharged by means of a throwing stick> as they flew with great swiftness above sixty yards. The whole coast of this country is low land, but clothed with a richness of trees and herbage, which exceeds all description* The cocoa-nut trees were also very numel*ous. On the evening of the 9th, they saw what had the appearance of land. The ship stood off and on dur- ing the might, when a number of fires were sefen on the island, and the next morning smoke was seen! m several places, whence it was conjefjtured .that the p^dce was well peopled. On the 16th, they had sight of thfj fittle island called Rot te; and the same day saw the island Semau. At ten o'clock this night a dull reddish light was seen in the air. This phenomenon, which reached about ten degrees above ihe horizon* bore a consi- derable resemblance to the Aurora Borealis, only that the rays of light which it emitted hud no tre- mulous motion. It was surveyed for two hours, dur- ing which time its brightness continued undiminish- ed. ' As the ship was now clear of all the islands which had been laid down in such maps as were on board, they made sail during the night, and were surprised thfj next morning at' the sight of aiusland to the west-south-west, which they flattered themselves waa a new discovery. Betbre noon they had sight Oi houses, groves of cocoa-i>ut trees, and large flocks 134 CAPTAIN COOK'S ^. of sheep. Tliis was a welcome sight to people whose health was declining for want of refresh- ments. 'I'he second Lieutenant was immediately dispatched in the pinnace, in search of a landing- place ; and he took with, him such things as it was thought might be acceptable to the natives : Dr. Solandcr went with him. Two horsemen were seen from the ship, one of whom had a laced hat on, and was drest in a coat and waistcoat, of the fashion of Europe- These men rode about on shore, taking little notice of the boat, but regardiiig the ship with the utmost attention. As^ soon as the boat reached the shore, some other persons on horseback, and many on foot, hastened to the spot, and it was observed that some cocoa-nuts were put into the boat, fronr* whence it was conclj*^- ed, that a traffic had commenced with the n* i^' A signal being made from the boat, that the ^hip might anchor in a bay at some distance, she inane- diately bore away for it. ii. When the Lieutenant came on board, he reported that he could not purchase iny cccoa-nuts, as tl^e owner of t^f in wp.s absent, and that what he had brought were given him ; in return for which he had presented the natives ^vith some linen. The method by which he learnt that there was a har- bour in the neighbourhood, was by the natives draw- ing a kind of rude map on the s^]id, in which the harbour, and a town near it, were represented ; it was likewise hinted to him that fruit, fowls, hcgs, and sheep, might be there obtained in great abundance. He saw several of the principal inhabitants of the island, who wore chains of gold about their necks, and were dressed in fine linen. When the boat's crew were on the point of returnhig to the ship, the gentleman who had been seen on horse^back in the dress of Europe, cauie down to the beach 5 but die Lieutenant did not think it proper to hold a confe- rence with him, because he had left his comrtiission on board the ship. In the evening, when the ship had entered ihe bay FIRST VOYAGE. 135 to whidr tl»ey had been recommended, an Indian town was seen at a small distance^ upon which a jack was hoisted on che fore-top-inast head. Pre • sently afterwards three guns were fired, and Dutch colours were hoisted in the town. The ship, how- ever, held on her way, and came to an anchor at se- ven in the evening. The colours beinp; seen hoisted on the beach the neit morning, the Captain concluded that the Ekitch had a settlement on the island ; he therefore dis- patched the second Lieutenant to mention what ne- cessaries they were in want of. He was conducted to the Raja, or King of the island, to whom, by means of a Portuguese interpre- ter, he made known hi| business. The Raja said« he was ready to supply the ship With the necessary refreshments i; but that he could <»ot trade with any other people but the Dutch, with whom he was in alliance, without having fii'st obtained their consent j but that he would make appUcatron to tlic Dutch Agent, whowastheonly white man among them. 'This Agent, whose name was La'jge, behav- ed politely to the Lieutenant, and told him, he might buy what he thought proper of Jhe inhabitants ttf die island. Immediately after the Raja and Mr- Ii«ange inti- xnated their wishes to goon board the ship, and that t?/o of the boat's crew might be left as hostages for er safe return ; the Lieutenant gratified both 'ht^ ^ requests, and took them on board Just before {i V jer was served. It was thought that they would have sat down withotit ceremony ; but after some hesitation, the Raja iutiniated his doubts, whether, beinga ack,t]icy would pA'mit him tositdownwitfe tliem. The politeness of thi officers soon removed his scruples, and the greatest good humour and festivity prevailed among them. As Dr. Solander» and another gentleman en board, were tolerable proHcients in Dutch, they acted as interpreters^ be- tween^Mr, Lange and the officers, while seme of the sailors, who understood Porlugue^j conversed with i36 CAPTAIN COOK'S such of the Raja's attendants as spoke that language. The chief part of the dinner was mutton, whici the Raja having tasted, he begged an English sheep, and the only one which they had left was given him, He then asked for a dog, and Mr. Banks gave him his grey-hound ; and a spying-glass was presented to him, on Mr- Lange's intimating that it would be acceptable. The visitors now told Captain Cook, that there WAS great plenty of fowls, hogs, sheep, and buffa- loes on the island, numbers of which should be con- veyed to the sea shore on the following day, that he might purchase what was necessary for the recove- jy of the sick, and for sea stores* This welcome news j^ I Teat spirits to the company, and the bottle went so . »kly round, that Mr* Lange and his com- panions became almost intoxicated. They had, however, the resolution to express a desire to de- part, before they were quite drunk. Messi-s. Solan- der and Banks went ashore with the visitors, who weine saluted at thew departure witli nine guns, which they returned with three cheers. On the following day the Captain, attended fcy several gentlemen, went on shore to return the Ra- ja's visit; but their principal intention was, to buy the refreshments which had been mentioned l^e prccedin'5 day. When they landed, thev were cha- grined to find that the cattle had aot been driven oowh to the beach. They went on tft the towa The Raja was at the house of assembly, surround- ed by many of his principal subjects; and Mr* Lange also attended. Captain Cook having informed tnem that he had loaded his boat with gooids, which lie wished to exchange f6r necessary refreshments, permission was given to land his effects. The Csw)- tain now endeavoured to make an agreement for the hogs, sheep, and buffaloes, which we|« to be paid for in cash ; but this business was no sooner hinted at than Mr. Lange took his leave, having; finC told the Captain, that he must make his agreement yf\fh the natives ; and adding, that he had received » *.'♦ ■m FIRST VOYAGE. 337 *r .letter from the Governor of Concordia, in Timor, the contents of wluch should be disclosed at his re- turn. They were invited to dine with the Raja, but he did not partake of the entertainment, as it was not custo iary here to sit down with their guests* They began their dinner, which consisted ot pork and rice, very excellent of their kinds, served up in thirty-six dishes, and three earthen bowls, filled with a kind of broth, in which the pork had been boiled. The spoons were formed of leaves, but were so small, that the hunger of the guests would scarcely allow them patience to use them. When dinner was ended, the Captain invited the Raja to drink wine with htm ; but this he declined sayifig, that the man who entertained company should never get dnmk with his guests. When the oottle had circulated some time. Cap- tain Cook began to inquire after the cattle that were promised to be driven down to the beach ; when Mr. Lange informed him, that in the letter which he had received from the Governor of Concordia, in- structions were given, that if the ship should toucii at the island, and be in want of provisions, sha should be supplied ; but that he was not to permit her to remain longer than was absolutely neces- sary. That no presepts were to be mad^ to the na- tives of low rank, nor even left with their superiors to be divided among them after the ship, had sailed ; but, he added, that any trifling civilities received from the Indians, might be acknowledged by a pi^e- sent of beads, or any otlier articles of small value* It is a very probable conjecture^ that the whole of this story was of Mr. Lange's own manufacture, and solely calculated to draw all the presents of any value into his own pock et. Soon after this the Captain was informed^ that some sheep had been driven down to the beach ; but had been conveyed away before the men could get money from the ship to pay for them, and that not a single hog or buflaloe had been driven down ; VOL.f M > 13t$ CAPTAIN COOK'S irr-i;" but that a small number of fowls, and a quantity of I the palm sirup had beeh bought. lieaitily vexed to be thus disappointed of the chief articles \. hich were wanted, the Captain re* xnonstrated with Mr. Lange, who told him, that if] he and his officers had gcHie to the spot, they might have purchased any thing they pleased ; but that the Indians imagined the seamen would impose on them with coiinterfeit money. This* story was no more credited than the for- mer ; but not to lose more time in a case of such nrgtncy, the Captain instantly repaired to the beach ; but there were no cattle to be bought During his absence, Lange informed Mr. Banks that the. Indians were offended, that the seamen had not pfTered gold for what they had t' established a settlemr nt upon it; but in a little time they were succeeded by the Dutch, who, though they did uot formally possess themselves of the island, sent a number of trading vessels to establish a treaty of commerce with the natives. The principal object of this treaty is, that the Rajas should furnish the Dutch, for the con- sumption of their spice islands, with rice, maize, Sec annually, and they are to return the value in arrack, cutlery wares, linen, and silk. In this agreement the Rajas stipulated, th^t a Dutch resident should be constantly on the island, to observe that theii part of the -contract was fulfilled. As soon as this was accomplished, they sent Mr. Lange to act as their resident. Once every two months he is attended by fifty slaves on horseback. sind in this state visits eacli of the Rajas. He con- stantly takes with him a nuantity of arr^ , by the help of which he does not fail of i^akii jvauta- geous bargains with the Rajas. ' Lange nad been on this island ten years, during nil which time he had not seen a white person, ex cept those who came annually in the Dutch ship to carry off the rice- He is married to an Indian wo- man, a native of the island of Timor, and he lives in the same manner as the inhabitants of Savu, whose language he speaks better than any other; like them too he sits on the ground and chews betle, and has so perfectly adopted their manners, that he is an absolute Indian, except in dress and complex- ion. The morality of these people is of the purest kind. A robbery is sparce ever committed, and a murder is never perpetrated. When any disputes arise between the natives, they instantly submit the point in debate to the decif^ion of the Raja, and rest perfectly satisfied with h5s determination. No man is permitted to marry ipor^ than one wife ; yet a violation of the marria^e-b^di or ev^n the crime 4 FIRST VOYAGE. 14$ simple foi*nication, h Mmo^ y^holty unktrtdWii ^mong them. Of the islands in the nei^Ubourhood of Savn, the principal is Timor, which is annually visited by the Dtttch residents on the other islands, in oi*acr to make up their accounts. A French ship was wrecked on the coast of Ti- mor about two years before the Endeavour was in these seas. She had been lodged on the rock seve- ral days, when the wind tore her to pieces in an in- stant, and the Captain, with the greater number ot the seamen, were drowned ; but a Lieutenant and about eighty nr>en reached tlve shore, where their immediate necessities were relieved, after which they returned to the wreck, In company with some Dutch and In- dians, who assisted them in recovering all theif chests of buUion« some of their guns and other effects, which being done, thfey returned, where they i^- mained several weeks ; but ' i this interval, cfeath xnade such hav6c among them, that not above hak their number nemained to be sent to their native country. The Endeavour sailed from the island of Savu on 6ie 31st of September, 1770, and bent her course westward. On the 28th tJiey steered north-west the whole day, in order to get sight of tile land of Java ; and on the 30th the Captain received from most of the of- ficers and seamen their respective journals of the voyage, regarding which, he advised them to ob- serve the most profound !>ecrecy : and he likewise possessed himself of the log-boofc. In the night fol- lowing there was a storm of thuiuier and lightning, when the land of Java was seen to the eastward by the brightness of the U^tning. Early in the morning of the 2d ofOctol^er, when tl^e ship was in iifiteen tatiioms water, «ive was dose in with the coast of Java, along wliich they now steered- As the ir faithful Indian friend Tupiawa« at this time extremely ill, the Captain dispatched her down, in order that she might undergo a thorough repair. On the 28th, however, Mr. Banks atunded Tupia to Coo- per's island, and a tent was ])itched for him, in such a situation, where he was alternately refreshed by tl>e land and sea breezy ; and tlie poor creatine FIRST VOYAGE. 1st vfSLS extremely thankful that he was so agreeably lodged* By this time the surgeon was so ill that he could not leave his bed. Mr. Banks' fever was greatly increased, and Dr. Solander grew worse esrery day* On the 5th of November, died Mr. Monkhouse, the Surgeon, whose loss was the more se erely felt» as he was a man of «kill in his profession, and fell a sacrifice to the pestiferous air of the country , at a time when his abilities wv°re most wanted- Dr. So- lander, though extremely ill, had strength sufficient to see ills remains copfimittv^d to the ground ; but Mr. £ inks was unable even to pay this last sad duty to a worthy man. Death now advanced with hasty strides among our adventurous countrymen, who were equally un- able to resist his power, or shun his embraces. Se- veral Malay servants were engaged, to w ait on those who were ill; butthesje people -were so remiss in their duty, that it was no uncommon thing for a sick man to leave his bed in search x>i his attendant. The Indian boy, Tayota, paid the debt of nature om the 9th of this month, and Tupia, whose tender af- fection for the youth can be equalled only by that of a parent for a favourite child, was so shocked at the loss* that it was evident that he could not long survive him. By this time the ship's bottom having been care«^v fully surveyed, our countrymen had ample reason to be grateful to that Providence, by which they had been preserved during a passage of several hundred miles, through the most dangerous seas on the face of the globe ; for the sheathing in several places was torn from the vessel, the false keel was in a great measure gone, the main keel was damaged in niany parts, several of the planks had received great injury, and a part of three of them was thinner than the sole of a shoe. Messrs. Solander and Banks were now so worn down by their disorders, that the physician who at- . tended them recommended the country air, as the •■■^ >. - % 15^ CAPTAIN COOK'S only thing tliat could possibly restore them to the ivishes of their friends. In consequence of this ad- vice, they hired a country house of the master of the hotel, who enf^aged to supply them with slaves, and to furnish their table ; but as they sufficiently expe- rienced the "wortlilessness of these slaves, they boug;ht two Malay women, who soon became excel- lent nurses, from that tendciTiess of nature which does so much honour to the sex» While these gentlemen were taking measures for the recovery of their health, poor 1 upia fell a victim to the ra- vages of his disorder, and to his grief for the deceas- ed Tayota. When Tayota was first seized with the fatal disorder, he seemed sensible of his ap- proaching end, and frequently said to those that ■were about h5m, Tyau mate see, " My friends, I am dying." He was very tractable, and took any medi- cines that were ollered to him ; they wer^ boA buried in the island of Edam. By this time not above ten men out* of the whol^ ship's crew wei*t able to do duty, and these were employed in getting the water and stores aboard, and in putting up the rigging. Captain Cook was now taken ill, and Mr. Spo- nng aQd a sailor who attended Messrs. Banks and Solander at their countr}'-hr}iise,were attacked with intermitting fevers ; bijt those two gentlemen grew something better, though their recovery was very slow. Their hcuse was situated on the borders of a rivulet, which, of course, assisted the circulation of the air ; and it was likewise open to the sea breeze- In the night of the 25th. there fell such a shower of rain, for tht space of four hotirs, as even rur voy- agers had scarce ever remembered- The water poured through every part of Mr- Banks' house ; and the lower apartnients admitted a sti*eam suffi- cient to have turned a mill. As this gentleman was now greatly restored in health, he went to Ba- tavia the following: day, and Mslh surprised to see, that the inhabitants had hung out their bedding to dry. The westerly monsoon set in about the 26th of I mm FIRST VOYAGE. 153 litis month ; it blows in the day-time from the north, or north-west, and from the south-west, during the night. Previous to this, there had been violent thunder, and hard showers of rain for several nights- The musquitoes and gnats, whose company liad heen sufficiently disagreeable in the dry weather, now began to swarm in immense numbers, rising from the puddles of water like bees from a hive. They were extremely troublesome during the night, but the pain arising from their sting, though very severe, seldom lasted more than half i an hour : and in the day-time they seldom made their at- tacits. The frogs kept a perpetual croaking in the ditches ; a certain sign that the wet season was commenced, and that daily rain might be expected. Tlie ship being repaired, and the sick people be- ing received on board her, and the greater part of her water and tores taken in, she sailed from On- rust on the 8th of December, r^jd anchored in the road of Batavia. Qn the 24th Capt. Cook took leave of the Gover- nor, and some other gentlemen, whohad distinguish- ed themselves by the civilities they shewed him. Immediately ^fter he went on board, attended by Mr. Banks and the other gentlemen who hf d hith- erto lived in the town, and they got under sail the next morning. Since the arrival of the ship in Ba- tavia road, every person belonging to her had been ill, except the sail-maker, who was more than se- venty years old, yet this man got drunk every day while they remained there. The Endeavour bu- ried 5even of her people at Batavia, viz. Tupiaand. his boy, three of the sailors, the servant of Mr^ Green, the astronomer, and the surgeon; and at the time of the vessel's sailing forty of the crew were sick, and the rest so enfeebled by their late ill- T\QS% as to be scarcely able to do their duty. The town of Batavia is situated in six degrees ten minutes south latitude, and one hundred ard six d6*- grees fifty minutes east longitude, from the meridian Qf Greenwich. It is built on the bank of a large N3 I 154 I CAPTAIN COOK'S bay, something more than twenty miles from the Straight of Sunda, on the north side of the island of Java, in low bogg)r ground. Several small rivers, •which rise forty miles up the country in the moun- tains of Blaeuwen Berg, discharge themselves into the sea at this place, haying first intcrsecttd the town in diflerent directions. There are wide canals of nearly stagnated water in almost every street, and as the banks ol these canals are planted with rows of trees, the effect is very agreeable ; but these trees and canals combine to render the air pestilen- tial. Some of the rivers are navigable more than thirty miles up the country ; and, indeed, the Dutch appear to have chosen this spot to build the town on, for the sake of water-carriage, in which conve- nience Bcitavia exceeds every place in the world, except the towns of Holland. The streets being wide, and the houses large, it stands on more ground than any other place that has only an equal number of houses. In dry weather a most horrid stencIi arises from the canal$, and taints the air to a great degree ; Xind when the rains have so swelled the canals that they overflow their banks, the ground-floors of the houses, in the lower parts of the town, are filled with stinkinK' ws^ter, that leaves behind it dirt and slime in arnazing quantities. The running streams are sometimts as offensive as the stagnated canals ; for the bodies of dead animals are frequently lodged on the shallow parts, where thev are left to putrefy and corrupt the air, except a flood happens to carry them away. This was the case with a dead buffa- loe, while the crew of the Kndeayour were there, •which lay stinking on the ^hoal of a river, in one; of the chief streets, for several days. They sometimes clean the canals ; but tliis busi- ness is perfcrmed in such a manner, as scarcely t^ make them less a nuisance than before ; for the bot- tom being cleared of its black nr.ud^ it is left on the side of the canal till it is hard enough to be taken aw9.y in boats ; and as therp are no houses fpr ne- FIRST VOYAGE. li^5 cessa))^' retirement in the whole town, the filth Js throwi> into the canals regularly once r^ clay, so tiiat this mud is a compouhd of e\erv thing that can ha imagined disagreeable and offensive. There i6 a new phurch in Batavia, which is a fine piece of l^nildin^, and ihe dome of it may be seen far off at aea. This church is illuminated by cliunde* liers ofthemostsuperb work.nan&Uip, and hj.s a fine organ. Most of the other public buildings are anr cient, coi(structed in an ill taste, and give a very complete ^dea of Dutch clumsiness. Their jhnethod of building th^ir houses seems to ]iave be^i taught them by the cHmate. On the ground-ilj)or there is no room but a large hall, a corner ot which is parted off for the transaction of buaness J the hall has two doors, which are com- monly \ef open, and are opposite each other, so that the air passes freely through the room, in the middle of which there is a court, which at once increases the draft of air, and affords light to the hall ; the stairs, \vliich are at one corner, lead to large and lofty apirtments above. The female slaves are not permitted to sit in any place, but in the alcove form-' cd by the court ; and this is the usual dining-place of tliefimily. There is a kind of citadel, or castle, in the north- easjt comer of the town, the walls of which are both broadeiiand higher than they are in any other parts ; it is fuitiished with a number of large guns, which commahd the landing-place. Apaitments are provided in this castle for the Governor General and all the Council ; and in case of a sitge, they have orders tu retire thither- In the castle are likewise a number of store-houses, in which the effects bjelonging to the Company are deposited. ,The Company have in their possession large quan- tities of gunpowder, which is kept in different places, that the lightning may not destroy the whole stoclj: at once ; a* great number of pannonarc likewise lai^ up within the castle. -iSS CAPTAIN COOK'S Before the Endeavour had been a week at^Batar via they began to feel the ill effects of were born ; keeping themselves apart from those of other nations, and practising both the virtues and vices peculiar to theii' own countrie?. '.. • • immmrwrnmrnrmnf' FIRST VOYAGE. 161 The hair of the people, which is black, wlj^out a single exception, grows in great abmulance ; yet the women noake use of oils and other ingredients, to increase the quantity ot it : they fasten it to the crown of the head with a bodkin, having first twist- ed it into a circle, round which circle they place an eleia;ant wreath of flovvers, so that the whole head- dress has the most beautiful appearance that ima- gination can form an idea of. it is the universal custom, both with the men and women, to bathe in a river once a day, and some- times oftener, which not only promotes health, but prevents that contraction of filth, which would be otherwise unavoidable in so hot a climate. ALnost every person hast read or heard of the Mohawks; and these are the people who are so denominated, from a corruption of the word Amock, which will be well explained by the following; sto- ry and observatioiis. To run a muck is to get drunk vith opium, and then seizing some offensive wea- pon, to sally forth from the house, kill the person or persons supposed to have injured the Amock, and any other person that attempts to impede his pas- sage, till he himself is taken prisoner, or killed on the spot. While Captain ('ook was rt Batavia, a person whose circumstances in life were indepen- dent, becoming jealous of his brother, intoxicated himself with opium, and then murdered his brother, and t'vo other men, who endeavoured to seize him. This man, contrary to the usual custom, did not leave his own house, but made his resistance from within it ; yet he had taken such a quantity of the opium, that he was totally delirious, which appear- ed from his attempting to fire three muskets, nei- ther of which had been loaded, or even primed. During the time that Captain Cock was at Bata- via, several instances of the like kind occurred ; and he was informed by an officer, whose duty it was to take such offenders into custody, that hardly a week passed in a year in which he was not ob- liged to exercise his authority : the Captain was also VQl^. I. O 163 CAPTAIN COOK'S told, that jealousy of the women is the usual reason of these poor creatures running a muck, and that the first object of their vengeance is always the per- son whom they suppose to have injured them. The officer, whose business it is to apprehend these un- happy wretched, is furnished with a long pair of tongs, in order to take hold of them at such a dis- tance from the point ot their weapons, as to insure his personal safety. When he takes one of them alive he is amply rewarded ; but this is not often the case, as tliey are so desperate as not to be easily apprehended : when they are killed in the attempt to take them, the officer has only the customary gratification. Those who are taken alive are bro- ken on the wheel, as near as possible to the place where the first murder was perpetrated ; and, as they are seldom apprehended without being pre- viously wounded, the time of their execution is soon- er or later, according to the opinions of the physi- cians, whether the wounds are, or are not, mortal. These people are very superstitious. When they dream successively for several nights, they have no doubt but that the Devil has enjoined the perform- ance of some act, to discover which they torture their brains in vain, and then apply to the priest, who never fails to intefrpret the dream in a satisfac- tory manner. In consequence of this interpretation, by which it appears that the Devil is in want of money and food, a quantity of each is placed in the leaves of the cocoa-nut tree, and being hung on the bough of a tree by the side of a river, is left till some passenger shall find, and take away the money, which is connidered not so much an offering to the Devil, as a fine due for some crime committed. With regard to the food, they imagine that the De- vil comes and sucks out the nutritious parts of it, with- out moving it out of its place. Fr^m this part of the story it seems reasonable to conclude, that the priest having previous knowledge where the obla-. tion is to be made, takes the n^Rey, and leaves .tie victuals. \ iV FIRST VOYAGE^ 16^ This instance of the superstition of these people may be thought very extraordinary ; but the allow- ing will appear much more so. I'hey are possessed •with an idea, that when one of their wives is brought to bed, a crocodile is born as a brother to tlie in- fant ; and they imagine that the midwife conveys the young crocodile to an adjacent river, into which she puts it, with the utmost care and tenderness. Those who suppose themselves honoured by the birth of this new relation,- fail uot to put food into the river for his subsistence ; but this is the puculiar du- ty of the twin-brother, who performs this service regularly, at fixed periods, during the whole course of his life; firmly believing, at the same tidie, that sickness or death would be the consequence of an omission on his part- In the islands of Boutou and Celebes the natives keep crocodiles in their families ; and it is conjec- tured, that the strange idea of the twin crocodile was first conceived in one of those islands ; it ex- tends, however, to Java and Sumatra westward, ami among the islands to the eastward as far as Ceram and Timor. It is a matter of perfect as* tonishrnent, how even the most ignorant and credu- lous of the human race, should firmly believe an utter impossibility to occur daily ; yet it is certain, that not one of the Indians whom <;^aptain Cook questioned on the subject, entertained the least doubt about the matter. The crocodiles supposed to be thus born are distinguis^d by the name of Sudar'as ; and our I'eaders cannot fyuX of being en- tertained with the following story respecting them, •which Mr. Banks heard from a young^^woman who "was t)orn at Bfencoolcn, and having lived among the English at that place, had learnt to speak as much of our language as was sufficient to make her story intelligible. She said that, when her father was on his death- bed, he laid the strongest injunctions on her to feed a crocodile tliat was his !Sudara ; that he told her the name by which he wight be called up, a«d the par* wmm 164 CAPTAIN COOK'S ticular prttt of tbe river where she would find him. Soon after the death of her father, she hastened to the river, and callint^ Radja PoutU (^vhich si^^ni- fies white king) the Siidar». croco<3ile made his ap- pearance, and she fed him with her own hands. She described him as being more beautiful than croco- diles are in general, for he had a red nose, and spots on his body ; his ears were adorned with rings, and his feet with ornaments of gold. This story will appear more extravagantly ridiculous, ^vhen it is xecoliected that crocodiles have not any ears. A man, whose mother was a native of the island of Java, and whose father was a Dutchman, was en- gaged in the service of Mr. Banks during his resi- dence at Batavia. 'I'his man told his master, that several Dutchmen, and many Javenese, as well as himself, had seen such a crocodile as was described by the girl who told the preceding story, and that, like hers, its feet were adorned with gold. On Mr. Banks" remarkmg the absurdity of these tales, and saying that ciYjcodilea had not ears, he replied, that the Sudaras differed considerably from othe r croco- diles ; and they had ears, though he acknowledged they were small, that their tongiies filled their mouths, and that on each foot they had five toes. The Chinese inhabitants of Batavia are, like those of their own country, some of the most indus- trious people on the face of the earth. They act as embroiderers, dyers of cotton, tailors, cai'pen- ters, joiners, smiths, and makers of slippers; sonic ^ of the ma re shop -keepers, and deal largely ni the manufactures of Europe and China. Captain Cook observes that, the danger of being hanged for any Crime being except< d, there is no- thing, however infamous, which -i Chinese wili re- fuse to do for gain ; and in this opinion he concurs with every preceding writer ; so that these people must hve taken no small pains to establish their reputation for knavery. The clothes of the Chinese, whether rich or poof, are singularly clean and decent. Their bcliaviour \'^^ wmmmmmm^ FIRST VOYAGE. 166 is civil, even to humility. They are such temperate eaters, that gluttony is unknown among them. Ex- clusive of vegetables r )d fish of various kinds, th^ principal food consists of dcgsi cats, lizards, frogs, serpents of several sorts, and hogs. The negroes of Africa are purchased at a lower price than any other slaves, and indeed any price whatever exceeds their merit, for they are of the most obstinate dispositions, and thieves, without a single exception. Those slaves which are purchas- ed from the island of Celebes are most intolerably lazy, and of so ferocious a disposition, that their em- ployers run the hazard of their personal safety. The island of Bali furnishes the most useful slaves ; and the little island Nias, near Sumatra, supplies female slaves of exquisite beauty ; but to these ill- fated women death is the almost certain consequence of even a sliort residence at Batavia* The masters of any of these slaves may punish them in whatever way they choose, so as not to de- prive them of life ; but when it happens that a slave dies of the punishment he has received, the master is tried, and commonly suffers as a murdet-er. From this circumstance it is reasonable to suppose, that the masters are cautious how they beat the slaves with undue severity : it is not indeed very common for them to strike them at all, but they pay an offi- cer, who is called the Marineu, for inflicting the punishment. The Marineu having heard what is alleged against the delinquent, detea-mines how many stripes he shall receive, and these are given by slaves, whose particular business it is to obey the commands of the Marineu ; these strokes are laid on with rods made of rattan split very small. For a severe whipping the Merineu receives a ducatoon, and a rix-doUar for a sligiiter punishment. The women slaves are whipped in the house of the mas- ter, but the men publickly in the streets- In order that these slaves may not be under too great temp- tations to steal, their masters are compelled to al- low them seven pence halfpenny weekly for pocfeet Dttoney. 3 ■M:M 166 CAPTAIN COOK'S The lawyers of Batavia arc partial in tlicir admi- nistration of jiistice to a very reprehensible degi-ee. When an Indian has committed any crime deemed '^vorthy of death, he is impaled, hanged, or broken on the whtel, without ceremony. On tlie contrar}', if a Christian is capitally convicted, execution very seldom follows the sentence : and what is more ex- traordinary, no pains are taken to apprehend the offender, till time enough has bceu allowed him to rUn away, if he thinks proper. When Captain Cook was at Batavia, Spanish dol- lars sold at five shillings and five pence each, and the price is seldom much lower. The Chinese ^vould give only the value of twenty shillings for an English guinea that was almost new, and for those that were old, and much worn, only seventeen shil- lings* We shall now proceed to a recital of the incidents which occurred during their passage from Batavia to the Cape of (iood Hope. Early in the morning of the 2rth of December, 1770, the EndeavoiTT left the road of Batavia, and, after several hindrances, occasioned by the wind be- ing contrary, she stood over ior the shore of Java, on the first day of January, 1771. As many of the bhip-'s crew, who had been very ill while at Batavia, were now become much worse, the vessel was brought to an anchor in the afternoon of the 5th near Prince's Island, with a view to get some neces- sary refreshments, and likewise to talve in wood and water, Messrs. Solander and Banks now went ashore •with the Captain, and they were no sooner landed, than some of the natives conducted them to the King of the island, with whom they endeavoured to make a bargain for sortie turtle, but the piice could ' not be agreed on. As our adventurers had no doubt but that they should purchase on their own terms the following day, they left the Indians, and proceed- ed in search of a proper place to fill water, which was soon found. FIRST VOYAGE. ur On Sunday the 6th of January they purchased, at very moderate prices, as many turtles as they had occasion for, and the whole ship's company fed on this delicious fish. The King was at this time at a house situated in a rice field, where Mr. Banks waited on him, and tbund him cooking his own victuals. On the 12th, while the Captain was on shore giv- ing orders to the peo|)le who were cutting wood and filling water, he was told, that one of the natives had stolen an axe. The thief was unknown ; but the Captain, resolving not to pave the way for future depredations of this kind, by taking no notice of the first offence, he immediately applied to the King; and in consequence of this application, the axe was brought down to the watering-place next day. The Indian who brought it back said, that it was left at his house in. the night; but it was suspected, that himself was the thief. Mr. Banks having several times visited the King of the island, and given him some trifies that were acceptable, he waited on him for the last tinie on the 13di of January, arid gratified him very much by a present of a small quantity of paper. After a stay of ten days at Pnnce's Island, during which they purchased vej^etables of various kinds, fowls, deer, turtle, Seethe anchor was weighed, and the vessel once more put to sea. This island, which lies in the western mouth of the Streight of Sunda, is small and woody, and has been cleared only in very few places. Our India ships used to touch at Prince's Inland to take in wa- ter, but they have omitted this practice for some years since, on account, as it is said, of the water being brackish ; yet Captain Cook says it is exceed-^ ing good, if filled towards the head of the brook. The fowls which were purchased at this place costabout five pence each ; the turtle three farthings a pound, and other fish were proportionably cheap ; one hundred of the best cocoa-nuts cost only a dol- lar, and pumpkins, pine-apples, aad other fruit, yrere equally cheap and plenty. 168 CAPTAIN COOK'S The houses are constructed Jn the form of an ob- long square: they are built on pillars four feet above the ground, and well thatclied with palm- leaves, as a defence from the sun and rain : the floor- ing is of bamboo canes, placed at a distance from each other, to admit the air : these houses consist of four rooms, one of which is destined for the re- ception of visitants, the children sleep in a second, and the two others are allotted, the one for the pur- pose of cookery, and the other fc r the bed-chnwbtr of the owner and his wife. The residence of the King of the island, and that of another person of great' authority, has boards on the sides, while the houses of the inferior people have walls made oi the bamboo cane, slit into small jSiicks, and wronglit across the beams of the buildinj^, in the manner of a hurdle. The King of the island h subject to the Sultan of Bantam. Captain Cook represents the natives as very ho- nest in their dealings, with the single exception of demanding more than double the sum they intend to sell for. At the time the Endeavour left Prince's Island, her crew began to feel, in all its force, the ill cfTects of the putrid air of Batavia ; and soon afterwards the ship was a mere hospital, filled with unhappy wretches, sinking under the rage of fevers and dy- senteries. In the space of six weeks twenty-three persons died, exclusive of the seven which had been buried at. Batavia ; these were nine seamen, the corporal of the marines, the ship's cook, two of the carpenter's crew, the carpenter and his mate, a midshipman, the old sail-maker, who was in per- fect health when all the rest were ill at Batavia, and his mate, the boatswain, Mr. Monkhouse, a midshipman, Mr. Sporing, who accompanied Mr* Banks, Mr. Parkinson, draftsman to that gentleman, and Mr. Green, the astronomer. After a passage in which nothing remarkable oc- cured, the ship was brought to an anchor off the tnpe of Good Hope, on the 15th of March, 1771 FIRST VOYAGE. 169 The Captain repaired instantly to the Governor, who said that such refreshments as the country sup- plied should be cheerfully granted him ; on which a house was hired for the sick. At the time the Endeavour lay at anchor here, an English East-Indiaman sailed lor the port of Lon- don, who had buried above thirty of her crew while she was in India ; and at that time had many others severely afflicted with the scurvy ; so that the suf- ferings of the crew of the Endeavour, considering her long absence from England, is a circumstance not at all to be wondered at. /C The land over the Cape of Go6d Hope is moun- tainous, and totally barren ; beyond these mountains the country is covered with a light sand, which will not admit of cultivation ; there are indeed k few cultivated spots, but they are hardly more than a tliousandth part ot the whole country. Provisions are brought to the Cape from a distance of nine hun- dred miles up the country, which is an evident proof (>f its extreme sterility, notwithstanding 'what has been heretofore written to the contrary* While Cap^ tain Cook lay here, a farmer came to the Cape, brinj^dng his young children with him, from a dis- tance that took hmi fifteen days journey ; and on his being asked why he had not left his children with some neighbour, he said there was no inhabi- tant within five days journey of his farm. There are no trees that are even two yards in height, ex- cept in some plantations in the vicinity of Cape Town. This town consists of near a thousand brick honses, the outsides of which being generally plastered, they have a veiy pleasmg appearance. There is a canal in the main street, v/ith two rows of oak-trees on it» borders, which are in a more Nourishing state than the other trees of this country ; the streets, which cross each other at ri^^ht angles, are very spacious and handsome. The inhabitants are chiefly Dutch, Of of Dutch extraction ; the women are beauti- W in a high degree, and possess those blooming 170 CAPTAIN COOK'S countenances "which denotes the most perfect health ; they are most of them mothers of many children, and Captain Cook says, they are the best wives in the world. The air of the Cape of Good Hope is so pure and salubrious, that a sick person, who goes thither from Europe, whatever be his disorder, almost always vecovers 'his health in a little time ; but those who bring diseases with them from the East-Indies, have not an equal chance, The Constantia wine which is made here is ex- cellent, but the genuine sort is mad^ only at one particular vineyard a few miles from the town. The gardens produce many sorts of European and Indian fruits, aud almost all the common kinds of vegetAblea The sheep of this country have tails of a very extraordinary size, many of which weigh upwards of adozen pou^^ ' > ; the meat of this animal, as well as of the ox, is » ery fine food : the wool ot the sheep is rather of the hairy kind, and the horns of the black cattle spread much wider than those of England, while the beast himself is handsomer and lighter made. The country abounds in hares, altogether like those of England ; there are several species of the antelope, plenty of bustards, and two kinds of quails. When a stranger arrives at the Cape, it is cus- tomary for him to board in a private house, and he pays from two shillings to a crown a day, according to the accommodations he expects- Morses are here let to hire at six shillings a day, aiid coaches at one pound four. The Dutch company have a very extenjjive gar- den here, well laid out in squares, and at the upper end is a menagerie of beasts and birds, many of them known in Europe ) and among the rest is the Coe Docy a beast not less than a horse, which has those curious spiral horns that have frequently found a place in the cabinets of the curious. The native inhabitants of this country are usu- ally dressed in a sheep-skin ttirown across the FIRST VOYAGE. 171 shoulders, anil a little pouch before them, to which is fixed a kind of belt, ornamented with little bits of copper, and beads ; round the waist of the women is a broad piece of leather, and rings of the same round theii^ ancles, to protect them from the thorns, which grow in abundance all over the country. None ot these people reside at a less distance than four days jourmy from Cape Town, except a num- ber of the poorer sort, who look after the cattle be- longing to the Dutch farmers, and are employed in various other menial offices- These people arc modest to the utmost degree of bashfulness, and though they are fond of singing and dancing, can hardly be prevailed on to divert them- selves with their favourite amusement before stran- gers ; both their singing and dancing are alternately quick and slow in the extreme- The Hottentots are so dexterous in throwing stones, that they will hit a mark not larger than a crown piece, at the distance of an hundred yards- They are likewise expert in the use of arjo'.vs, and of the lance, called an Assagay, the points of which they poison, sometimes with the venom of a serpent, and sometimes with the juice of particular herbs ; so that a wound received from either of these wea- pons is almost always mortal. On the 14th of April, 1771, the anchor of the Endeavour was weighed, and she once more put to sea- On Monday, May-day, they came to an an- chor off the island of St. Helena, and as they pro- posed to remain thvee days, Mr- Banks employed the interval in sur\ eying every object that was thought worthy of notice. The island of St- Helena rises out of the immense Atlantic ocean, is about eighteen hundred miles^ , from the coast of America, and twelve hundred miles from that of Africa, It has the appearance of a huge mountain, the foundation of which is pro- bably at^he centre of the globe. It had formerly volcanoes in several pans of it, as is evident from the appeatance of the earth and stones in many pla- m: 172 CAPTAIN COOK'S CCS ; and it looks like a cluster of rocks, bounded by precipices of immense height. As a vessel sails along the coast, the cliffs perpend over her head so as to threaten her instant destruction, and nothing in nature can be conceived more awful* than their appearance. Close to the sea-side stands the town, which had formerly a church of very indifferent architecture, but it is now little better than a heap of ruins, nor is the market-house in a much better condition ; most of the houses are also constructed in a vile taste. As this island is the property of the English East- India Company, the innabitants are not suffered to carry on any trade for their own emolument, but get their livelihood by selling the productions of the island to the crews of the vessels which anchor there for a supply of refreshments. The only wnite inhabitants of the island are sub- jects of the King of Great-Britain ; these employ slaves, who transport goods of all kinds from place to place on their heads ; and we are sorry to say, that the inhumanity of our countrymen to these slaves is a disgrace to those who profess the Chris-^ tain faith. There are a small number of horses at !St. Helena, but they arc never employed in draught, there being no such thing as a waggon or cart ou the island, though in many places the land is not so steep, but that such carriages mie;ht easily be drawn. On Saturday, the 4th of May» 1771, the Endeavour sailed from the road of St. Helena, together with the Portland man-of-war, and several sail of India- men. They kept company with the man-of-war and Indiamen till Friday the 10th. But Captain Cook observing that they were out-sailed by all the other ships, and consequently imagining that some of them would reach England before him, made signals to speak with the Portland, when the Captain of that vessel came on beard, and received from Captain Cook a letter to the Lords of the Admiralty, toge- ther with a box, in which were deposited the jour- nals of many of the officers^ nnd the ship'slog-books* FIRST VOYAGE. 17$ On the 23d they lost sight of all the ships they sailed in company with from St. Helena, and in the afternoon of the same day, Mr. Hicks, the first Lieu- tenant, died of a consumption, with which he had been ai!ii(!ted during the whole voyage. No single occurrence worth recordir.g happened from this time, till the ship came to an anchor in tho Downs, which was on the 1 Jth of Jane following. Whoever has carefully read, and duly considered, the wonderful protection of this ship, in cases of danger the most imminent and astonishing, particu^ larly when encircled in the wide ocean with rocks of coral, her sheathing beaten oil', her false keel floating by her side, and a hole in her bottom, will naturally turn his thoughts with adoration to that Divine Being, whose mercies are over all his works ! END Of CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST YOTAGW^ VOL, ly P C .-■* '<■ CAPTAIN COOKS SECOND VOYAGE ■^"^'-^^ ^Commenced in 1772, and finishedin 1775. - ■ • ' ■«■. .■ Departure from England^ to leaving the S^ietij Isles ik First Time, X HE principal object of the former Voyage, was, as mentioned in the beginning of this Volume, to ob- serve the transit of the planet Venus over the sun's disc, a phenon:enon of great importance to astrono- my ; and for that purpose, Otaheite, in the South- Sea, first discovered by Captain Wallis, >\as fixed upon. Very soon after the Captain's return fromi his en- terprise in the Endeavour, (an account of which the reader has, it is supposed, just read) it was de- termined to send two ships to complete the disco- very in the Southern Hemisphere ; and for this pur- pose two vessels of a particular constiiiction were purchased of Captain Hammond, of Hull: the larg- est was 46*2 tons ; she was named the Resolution ; the other was 336 tons, and named the Adven- ture. Captain James Cook was appointed to the comnr.and of the former, and Captain Tobias Fur- neaux was promoted from the rank of a Lieutenant to the command of the lat^^er. The Resolution had 112 persons on board, officers included, and the Adventure 81. Mr- Forsterand his son, and Mr. Wales, now Mathematical Ma'ste: of Christ's Hospital, acgi^sfipanied thetn. 'f.. SECOND VOYAGE. 175 On the 13th of Jane, 1772, at six o'clock in the morning, both the ships sailed frorrt Plymouth Sound, and on the evening of the i29th anchored in Funchi- ale Road, in the island of Madeira* At the Cap- tain's and Mr. Forster's landing, they were received by a gentleman from the Vice Consul, Mr. Sills, who conducted them to the house of Mr. Lough- nans, the most considerable English merchant in the place. This gentleman not only obtained leave for Mr. Forster to search the island for plants, but pro- cured them every other thing they wanted, and in- sisted on their accommodating themselves at his house during their stay. This place has been already described in the former Voyage, see page 10- During their stay here, the crews of both ships were supplied with fresh beef and onions ; and a quantity nt the latter ^ was distributed amongst them for sea-store^ Having got on boavd a supply of water, winevand other aecessaricjs, they left Madeira on the 1st of August, and steered southward. Captain Cook now /nade three puncheons of beer, of the inspissated vuicn of malt- The proportion was about ten of water to one of juice. They stop- ped at St Jago for a supply of water, on the 10th ; the Captain immediately dispatched an officer to ask leave to water, and purchase refreshments, which was granted- The 14th in the evening hav- ing completed their water, and got on board a sup- ply of refreshments, such as hogs, goats, fov.is, and fruit, they put to sea, and proceeded on their voyage. Port Praya^ wheie they ancliored, is a small bay, situated about the middle of the south side of the island of St. Jago. The water is tolerable, but scarce ; and bad getting off*, on account of a great surf on the beach. The refreshments to be got here are bullocks, hogs, goats, sheep, poultry, and fruits. The goats arc of the antelope kind, so extraordina- rily lean, that hardly anything can equal them ; and the bullocks, hogs, and sheep are not much better. Bullocks must be purchased with money ; the price 176 CAPTAIN COOK'S is twelve Spanish dollars a head, weighing betwee:? 250 and 300 pounds- Other articles may be got from the natives in exchange for old clothes, &c. On the 19th, in the afternoon, one of the carpen- ter's mates fell overboard, and vvas drowned. He was over the side, sitting on one of the scuttles; "whence, it was supposed, he had fallen ; for he was not seen till the very instant he sunk under the ship's stern, when all endeavours to save him were too late- This loss was sensibly felt during the voyage, as he was a sober man, and a good workman* On the 27th, Captain Ferneaux lost one of his petty oiScers, With variable winds they advanced but slowly, and without meeting with any thing remarkable till the 23d, when tbey saw a seal, or, as some thought^ a sea-lion, which probably might be an inli abitant of one of the islands of Trjstiande Cunha, being now rtcarly in their latitude At two in the afternoon on the 29t!», they made the land of the Cape of Good Hopt?. The Table Mountain, which is over the Cape Town, distance 12 or 14 leagues, was a good deal obscured by clouds, otherwise it mi»i;ht, from it^ height, havs been seen at a much j;reater distance. Between eight and nine o'clock this evening, the whole sea, within the compass of their si^ht, became at once, as it were, illuminated, or, what the seamen call, all on fire* This appearance of the sea, in some de- gree, is very common ; but the cause is not so ire- nerally known. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were of opinion it was occasioned by sea insects ; Mr; Forater, however, seemed not to favour this upimon. Sorne buckets of water %vere drawn up from along- side the ship, which was found lull ox an innume- rafc^e quantity of small globular insects, about the size oi a common ])in*s head* and quite transparent In the morning they stood into 1 able Bay* and an- chored in five fathom water They had no sooner anchored than they were visited by the Captain of the port and Mr- Brandt. This last gcntleinan SECOND VOYAGE. irr brought off such things as could not faij^of being ac- ceptable to persons coming from sea. The Master Attendant also visited them, according to custom, to take an account of the ships; to inquire into the health of the crews ; and, in particular, if the small-pox was on board ; a thing they dread above all others at the Cape, and for these purposes a ' surp^eon is always one of the visitants. Captain Cook waited upon the Governor, accom- panied by Captain Furneaux and the two Mr. For-r sters. He received them with great politem- ss, and promised every assistance the place conld attbrd. After havingvisited the Governor and some other principal persons of the place, they fixed at Mr. Brandt's, the usual residence of most officers belong- ing to English ships. This gentleman spares nei- ther trouhK- nor expense to make his house agree- able to those who favour him with their company,* and to accommodate them with every thing they want. Three or four days after them, two Dutch India- men arrived here from Holland, after a passage of between four and five mofiths, in which one lost, by the Scurvy and other putrid diseases, 150 men, and the other 41. They sent, on their arrival, great numbers to the hospital in very dreadful circifm- stanccs. It was the 18th of November before they had got ready to put to sea- During this stay the crews of both ships were served every day with fresh beef or mutton, new baked bread, and as much greens as they could eat. The ships were caulked and painted; and, in every respect, put in as good a condition as when they left England. Mr. Forster, whose whole time was taken up in the pursuit of Natural History and Botany, met vlth a Swedish gentleman, one Mr. Sparrman, who had studied under Dr. Linnxus. He, by Captain Cook's consent, embarked as an assistant to Mr. Forster, 'vho bore his expenses on boardi, and ^^ lowed him a yearly stipend besides^ P 2 - - MWn l^r -' 'J m CAPTAIN COOK'S At three o'clock in the afternoon of the 22d they weighed, with the wind at N- by W. On the 25th they had abundance of albatrosses about them, se- veral of which were caught with hook and line ; and were very well relished by nriany ot the people, not- withstanding they were at this time served with fresh mutton* Judging that they should soon come into cold weather, the Captain ordered slops to be served to such as were in want; and gave to each man the fear-nought jacket and trowsers allowed them by the Adiiiiralty. A violent gale, which was attended with rain and hai]^ blew at times with such violence, that they could carry no sails ; by which means they were driv- en far to the eastward of their intended course, and no ho|)es were left of reaching Cape Circumcision. But the greatest misfortune that attende^i them, was the loss of great part of their liv^ stock, which tfiey had brought from the Ca|)e, and which consisted of sheep, hogs, and geese. There was now a suddai transition from warm, mild weather, to extreme cold and wet, which made every man in the ship feel its effecti) ; for bv thij5 time the mercury in the thermometer had fallen to 38, whereas at the Cape iit was generally 67, and iipwards. The night prov- ed'nlear and serene, and the only one that was so since they left the Cape ; and the next morning the rising si^n gave such flattering hopes of a fine day, that they were induced to let all the reefs out of the top- sails. Their hopes, however, soon vanished ; for by one o'clock, F. M- the wind, which was at N. W. blew with such strength as obliged them to take in all their sails, to strike top-gailant-masts, and to get the spritsail-yard in. I'he three folio v/ing days the wind abated. On the 10th, the weather being hazy, they dlii not see an island of ice which they were, steering directly for, till they were less than i mile from it It appeared to be about 50 feet high, and half a mile in circuit. It was flat at the top, and its sides rose in a perpendicular direction, against which (Jie sea broke exceedingly high. SECOND VOYAGE. X79 Captain Furneaux at first twk the 'ce for land, I and hauled off from it, until called back by signal. As the weather was foggy, it was necessary to pro- ceed with caution. The hazy weather continued ontlie 11th and 12tb, with sleet and snow ; so that they were obliged to proceed with great cautioii on account of the ice islands. Six of these they passed this day ; some of tliem near two miles in circuit, and sixty feet high. And yet, such wa?> the force and height of these waves, that the sea broke quite over them. Cap* tain Cook says, *' This exhibited a v.ew which for a few moments was pleasing to the eye ; but when we reflected on the dar ger, the Riiivd was filled with horror. For were a ship to get against the weath- er side ot one of these islands when the sea runs high, she would bedashed to pieces in a moment.'* Froni noon till eight o'clock in the evening, twenty ice islands, of various exteiit, both for height and circuit, came in view. At about nine o'clock they found no ground with 130 fathom of line. At eight o'clock on kuq 14th, they brought-to un- der a pv>int of the ice, where they had smooth wa- ter; and the two Captains fixed on rendezvouses in case of separation, and some other matters fpr the better keepiiig company. Next day, the 15th, they had the wind at N. W- a small gale, thick, foggy weather, with much snow; their sails and rigging were all hung with icicles. The fog was so thick at times, that tliey co»ui() not see the length of the ship ; tnd they had much dif- •"culty to avoid tl^e many islands of joe that sur- rounded them. On the 17th, they saw many whales, one seal* penguins, some wiiite birds, another sort of peterei, which is brown ai^ white, and not much unlike a pintado ; and some other sorts, iliey found the skirts of the loose ice to be more broken than usual ; and it extended some distance beyond the main field, insomuch that they saded amongst it the most Wt of the day ; and the high ige iilunUs without ' Sf; '.iM (>l 180 CAPTAIN COOK»S» ■.V- ■■_ .■ I •were innumerable. The weather was sensibly colder than the thermometer seemed to point out, insomuch that the whole crew complained. In or- der to enable them to support this the better, the sleeves of their jackets, (which were so short as to expose their arms) were lengthened with baize; and had a cap made for each man of the same stuff, together with canvas ; which proved of great ser- vice to them. On the 24th, being near an island of ice, which •was about 50 feet high, and 400 fathoms in circuit, the master went in thfe jolly-boat to see if any wa- ter ran from it. He soon returned with an account that there was not one drop, or any other appear- ance of thaw. They sailed this day through several floats, or fields of loose ice, lying in the direction of S. E. and N. W. On the 29th, they came to a resolution, to run as far west as the meridian of Cape Circumcision, pro* vided they met with no impediment, as the distance ■was not more than 80 leagues, the wind favourable, and the sea seemed to be pretty clear of ice. At one o'clock they steered for an island of ice, think- ing, if there were any loose ice round it, to take some on board, and convert it into fresh water. At four they brought-to, close under the lee of the island; where they did not find what they wanted, but saw upon it 86 penguins. This piece of ice was about half a mile m circuit, and one hundred feet high and upwards ; for they lay for some minutes "With every sail becalmed under it The side on ■which the peng\>ins were, rose sloping from the sea, so as to admit them to creep up it. They continued to the westward, with a gentle gale at E. N, E. ; the weather being sometimes to- lerably clear, and at other tin^a thick and hazy, -with snow. On the 3pth they shot one of the white birds ; upon which they lowered a boat into the water to take it up ; and by that meavis killed a penguin which weighed 11 J pounds. The white bird was pi the peterel tribe i the bill, which is rather ^^^^h '■'■J!i?®w-- )-%ti' SECOND VOYAGE. ISl is of a colour between black and dark blue ; and their legs and feet are bine. On the second of January, 1773» the weather was 50 clear that they might have seien land at fourteen fifteen leagues distance^ On tlie 5th, they had much snow and sleet, which, las usual, froze on the rigging as it fell; so that every rope was covered with the fine&t transparent ice. This afforded an agreeable sight enough to the eye, but conveyed to the mind an idea of coldness, [much greater than it r« ally was ; for the weather [was ratlier milder than it had been for some time )ast, and the sea less incumbered with ice. On the 9th they brought-to, and hoisted out three [boats ; and, in about five or six hours, took up as [much ice as yielded fifteen tons of good fresh water* The pieces taken up were hard, and solid as a rock; some yyi them so large, that they were obliged to break them with pick-axes, betore they could bo [taken into the boats« The salt water which adhered to the ice, was so [trifling as not to be tasted, and after it had lain on the deck a short time, entirely drained off; and I the water which the ice yielded, was perfectly j sweet and wdl-tasted* Captain Cook says, "I'his is the fnost expeditious method of v/atering l\e ever met with.*' : On the iT'th they sa^v no less than thirty-eii^ht ice islands, one was sixteen or eighteen feet high at ieas^; and of great txtent Here also they saw many whales playing about the ice ; and, for two da\ s before, had seen several flocks of the brown and white pintadoes, which were named Antarctic peterels, because tkey seem to be natives of that rejfrion. On the 1st of February, at half past four o'clock in the afternoon. Captain Furneaux informed Cap- tain ^^ook that he had just seen a large float t^f sea or rock weed, and about it several birds (divers.) These were, certainly, signs of the vicinity of land ; ^t whether it lay to the east or west, was not pes- for thena to know- ^. ' m 'irf 182 CAPTAIN COOK'S ^ On the 8th of February, having lost sight of the Adventure, they suspected a separation had taken place, though they were at a loss to tell how it had been effected. Captain Furneaujc had been ordered by Captain Cook, in case he was separated, to cruise three days .n the place where he last saw him ; he therefore continued making short boards, and firing half-hour guns, till the 9th in the afternoon, when the •weather havina: clears d up, they could see several leagues round them, and found that the Adventure was not within the limits of their horizon. At this time they were about two or three leagues to the eastward of the situation they were in when they last saw her. Next day they saw nothing of her, notwithstanding the weather was pretty clear, and Captain Cook had kept firing guns, and burning false fires all night. He therefore gave over looking for her, made sad, and steared S E. with a fresh gale at W- by N. accompanied with a high sea from the same direction. * On the 17th, at nine in the morning, they bore down to an island of ice, which they reached by noon. It was full half a mile in circuit, and two hun- dred feet high at least ; though very little loose ice about it. But while th-y were considering whether or no they should hoist out boats to take some up, a great quantity broke from the island- Of this de- tached part, they made a shift to get on board about nine or ten tons before eight o'clock, when they hoisted in the boats, -and made sail to the east, inclin- ing to the south, with a fresh gale at south ; which, soon after, veered to S. S. W. and S. VV- with fair but cloudy weather. On the 23d, they tacked, and spent the night •which was exceedingly stormy, thick, and hazVi with sleet and snow, in making short boards. Sur- rounded on every side with danger, they wished for day -light. This, when it came, served only to in- crease their apprehensions, by exhibiting to view, those huge mountains of ice, which* in the night, they had passed without seeing. ^WAil SECOND VOYAGE. 183 These dancjers were, however, now become so Ifamiliar, that the apprehensions they caused were [never of lone duration ; and were, in some measure, [compensated both by the seasonable supplies of fresh [water these ice islands afforded, (without which (they must have been greatly distressed,) and also by (their very romantic appearance, greatly heightened [by the foaming of the waves into the curious holes [and caverns which are formed in many of them ; the whole exhibiting a view, which at once filled the mind with admiration and horror, and caa only [be described by the hand of an able painter. The 28th, a sow having in the morning farrowed I nine pigs, every one of them was killed by the cold before four o'clock in the afternoon, notwith- standing great care was taken of them: chilblains were also common; Such is the summer weathet I they enjoyed ! On Sunday, the 7th of March, the weather becaipe fair, the sky cleared up, and the night was remarka- bly pleasant, as well as the morning of the next day ; which for the brightness of the sky, and serenity and mildness of the weather, gave place to none they had seen since they had left the Cape of Good Hope- It was such as is little known in this sea ; and, to make it still more agreeable, they had not one island of ice in sight- March 17th, Captain Cook now came to a resolu- tion, to quit the high southern latitudes, and to pro- ceed tc New Zealand, to look for the AdveiUure, and to refresh his people- This day they saw several porpoises, into one of which Mr. Cooper struck a harpoon ; but, as the ship was running seven knots, it broke its hold, af- ter towing it some minutes, and before they could deaden the ship's way. As the wind, which coTitinued between the north and west, would not permit them to touch at Van Dieman's Land, they shaped their course to New Zealand ; and being under no apprehensions of meet- ^gwith any danger, the Captain was not backward m carrying sail v:. 4 i ^ ' ''i • ■}■' 184 CAPTAIN COOK'S ^.■. ■/■S-r ^ tor the three days past, the mercury in the ther- mometer had risen to 46, and the weather was quite mild. Stjven or eight degrees of latitude had made a surprising difterence in the temperature of the air, %vhich they felt w?*^^h an agreeable satisfaction. On the 25th, they were before the entrance of a bay, which they had mistaken for Dusky Bay, be- ing deceived by some island that lay in the mouth of it. Fearing to run, in thick weather, into a place to which they were strangers, and seeing some break- ers and broken ground ahead, they tacked in twen- ty-five fathom water, and stood ont to sea. On the 26th, they steered and entered Dusky Bay, about noon. In this bay they were all stran- gers ; in Captain Cook's former voyage, he only dis- covered and named it. After running about two leagues up the bay, and j>as5ing several of the isle* which lay in it, they brought- to, and hoisted out two boats ; one of whicn was sent away with an officer round a point on the larboard hand, to look for anchorage. This he found, and signified the same by signal. They then followed with the ship, and anchored in 50 fathoms water, so near the shore as to reach it With an haw- ser. This was on Friday the 26th of March, at three in the afternoon, after having been 117 days at sea ; in which time thejr sailed 3660 leagues with- out once having sight ot land. After such a lon^ continuance at sea» in a high fiouthem latitude, it is but reasonable to think that many of the people must be ill of the scurvy. The contrary, however, happened- Sweet wort had been given to such as were scorbutic This had so i&r the desired effect, that they had only one man on board that could be called very ill of this disease ; occasioned chiefly by a bad habit of body, and a complication of other disorders. Their first care, after the ship was moored, was tp send 9. boat and people a fishing ; in the mean tine, some of th« gentlemen kilte4 a seal, (out 4 SECOND VOYAGE. 185 many that were upon a rock) which made them a fre^h meal. The fishing-boat was very successful, returning with fish sufncieiit for all hands for sup])er ; and m a few hours in the morning, caught as many as serv- ed for dinner. This gave them certain hopes of be- log plentifully supplied with this article. Nor did the shores and woods appear less destitute of wild fowl ; so that they hoped to enjoy, with ease, what, in their situation, might be called the luxuries of lite. This determined them to stay some time in this bay, in order to examine it thoroughly ; as no one had ever landed before, on any of the southern parts of this country. About one hundred yards from the stern, was a fine stream of fresh water. Thus situated, they be- gan to clear places in the woods, in order to set up the astronomer's observatory, the forge to repaid their iron work, tents for the sail-makers and coop- ers to repair the sails and casks in ; to land the empty casks» to fill water, and to cut down wood for fuel ; all of which were absolutely necessary occupations. They also began to brew beer from the branches or leaves of a tree, which much resem- bles the American black spruce. The few sheep and goats they had left were not likely to fare well, there being no grass here, but what was coarse and hnrsh. k was, however, not so bad, but it was expected they would devour it with great greediness, but they were the more sur- prised to find they would not taste it ; nor did they seem over fond of the leaves of more tender plants. Upon examination chey found their teeth loose; ai^d that many of them aad every other symptom of au invec: e sea scurvy. Out of four ewes and two rati IS vfhich Captain Cook brought from the Cape, wic'i an intent to put ashore in this country* lie had only been able to preserve one of each ; and even these were in so bad a state that it was doubt- ful if they could recover, notwithstanding all the care l)os!iible had t>een taken of them. On the 28th, a canoe appeared, and Oiame wi^tlwn VOL.1. . Q t'V *■• ;Ji, S tl I ■ ll '.'V i x\ F 1'' , "«' I ' ii:r''''i;i ,< I f .tk" ^ > IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) O .*v^ ^ 4^ 1.0 1.1 11.25 ^ la 12.2 t y& no ^ 1.8 <^ V] y] O / / ^ Hiotograplsjc Sciences Corporation 13 WEST MAIN STREET WnSTER.N.Y. MSSO (716) 173-4503 ■^v^ V iB6 CAPTAIN COOK»S xiusket-shot of the ship. There were in its seven or eight people. They remained looking at the vhip for some time, and then returned ; signs of friend- ship did not prevail on tliem to come nearer. After dinner the Captain took two boais^ and went in search of them. They found a canoe hauled upoa the shore near two small huts, where were several fire-places, some fishing nets, a few fish lying on the shor^, and some in the caaoe, but saw no people ; they, probably, had retired into the woods. After a short stay, and leaving in the canoe some medals, looking-glasses, beads, See. they embarked and row- ed to the head of the covDe, where they found noth- ing remarkable In returning back they put ashore stX the same place as before ; but still saw no peo- ple. t On the 6th, the Captain discovered a fine capa- cious cove, in the bottom of which is a fresh water river ; on the west side several beautiful small cas- cades ; and the shores are so steep, that a ship might lie near enough to convey the water into her by a hose. In this cove they shot fourteen ducks, be- sides other birds, wl^di occastoaed its being called Duck Cove. As they returned in the evening, they had a short interview with Awee of tlie natives, one man and two "women. Thev were the first that discovered thera- tielves on the N. E. point of Indian Lland, named so oh this occasion : the maii hallooed to them. He stood with his chib in his hand upon the point of a rock, and behind him, at- the skirts of the wood> stood the two women, with each of them a spear. The man could not help discovering great signs of fear when they approached the rock with the boat. He, however, stood firm ; nor did he mDve to take up some things that were thrown to him. At length they landed, went up and embiaced him ; and pre- sented him with such articles as they had, which at once dissipated his fears. Presently after they were joined by the two women, and some of the seamen. After this, they spent about half an hour in chit- #luit| little understood on either side, in YiWh the pi SECOND VOYAGE. !8f toungest of the two women bore by far the greatest share- This occasioned one of the seamen to say, that women did not want tongue in any part of the world. Night approaching, obliged them to take leave of them ; when the youngest of the two wo- men, whose volubility of tongue exceeded €very thing they ever met with, gave them a dance .; but (he man viewed us with great attention. Nert morning they made the natives another visit, accompanied by 'Mr. Forster and Mr. Hodges, carrying with them various articles, which were presented to them, and which they received with a great deal of indifference, except hatchets and spike nails ; these they most esteemed. This interview vas at the same i^lace as last night ; and now they saw the whole family. It consisted of the man, his two wives (as we supposed,) the young woman be- fore mentioned, a boy about fourteen years old, and three smaU children, the youngest of which was at the breast. They were all weH- looking, except one woman, who had a large wen on her upper lip, which made her disagreeable ; and she seemed, on that account, to be in a great measure neglected by the man. They conducted them to thei r habitation , which was but a little way within the skirts cf Uie wood, and consisted c^ two mean huts made of the bark of trees. Their canoe, which was a small double one, just large enough to transport the whole family from place to place, lay in a small creek near the huts. During their stay, Mr. Hod- ges made drawings of most of them ; this occasioned them to give him the name of Toe-toe^ which word was supposed tasignify marking or painting. When they took leave, the Chief presented Captain Cook with apiece of cloth or garment of their own ma- nufacturing, and some other trifles. He at first thought it was meant as a rettini w the presents he had made him ; but he was soon undeceived, by ex- pressing a desire for one of their boat cloaks. He took the hint, and ordered one to be made for him of red baize, as soon as he got on board ; where rainy Vfeather detained him the following day. 185 CAPTAIN COOK'S The 9th, being fair weather, the paid the natives another visit. They found them at their habitations, all dressed and dressing in their very besit, with their hair combtrd and oiled, tied up upon the crowns of their heads, and stuck with white leathers* Some mrore^ a fillet of feathers round their iieads ; and all of them had bunches of white feathers stuck in their ears. Thus dressed, and all standing, they receiv* ed iheari with great courtesy. Captain Cook pre- sented the Chitrf with the cloak he had got made for him» with which he seemed so well pleased, that he took his Pattuo-pattoo from his i^irdfe, aud gave it iq return* After a bhort stay, they took leave. On the 21th, several of the natives came and sat 4own on the shc^re abreast of the ship. The Cap* tain now caused the bagpipes and fife to play, aud the drum to beat The two first they did not re- gard, but the latter ca ised some little attention m them ; nothing, however, could induce them to come on board. But they entered with great familiarity into conversatioih (little understood) with s. chef the officers and seamen as went to them, paying much greater regard to some than to others ; these, ^ was suppo ed, th'^^took for femcdes. To one man in particular, the young woman shewed an ex- traordinarv fondness, until she discovered his six, after which she would not suffer him to come near her. V\'heUier it was that she before took liim for one of her own sex ; or that the man, in order to discover himself, had taken some liberties with her ivhich she thus resented, is not knowc. On the morning of the 15th, after several days rain, the weatlier occame clear* The Captain set out with two boats to survey the N. W. side of the bay, accompanied by the two Nf r. Fqrsters and se- veral of the officers, whom he detach^ d in one boat to Goose Cove,^here they intended to lodge the night, while he proceeded in the other, examining the harbours and isles which lay in his way. In the doin.^; of this he picked up about a score of wild fowl, and caught fish sufficient to serve the whole party ; and reaching the place of rendezvous a little SECOND VOYAGE. 189 before dark, he found all the gentlemen out duck- shooting : they however soon returned, not overloaSi-. cd with game. By this time the cooks had done their parts, in which little art was required, and af- ter a hearty repast on what the day had produced, they lay down to rest ; but they took care to rise early the next morning, in order to have the other bout among the ducks before they left the cove. Accordingly, at day-light, they prepared for the attack. Some who had reconnoitred the place be- fore, chose their stations accoVdingly ; whilst the Captain and another remained in the boat., and row- ed to the head of tlj^e cove to start the game, which they did so effectually, that out of some scores of ducks, they only detained one to themselves, sending all thf rest down to those stationed below. About a mile from hence, across an isthmus/ they found an immense number of wood-hens, and brought away ten couple of tjiem. After breakfast they set out to return to the ship, which they reached by seven o'clock in the evening, with abput sev*;n dozen of ^vild fo\yl, and two seals. On the X7th two of the natives, the Chief and his (laughter, ventured on board; the Captain took them both down into the cabin where they were to breakfast. They sat at table, but would not taste any of tl\e victuals. The Chief wanted to know where the Captain slept, and indeed to pry into every corner of the cabin, all parts of which he viewed with some surprise. But it was not possible to fix his attention to any one thing a siiiglts moment. The Works of art appeared to him in the same light as those of nature, and were a^ far removed beyond his comprehension. What seemed to strike them most was the number and strength of the decks, and other parts of the ship. The Chief, before became aboard, presented the Captain with a piece of cloth and a gi;^en talc hatchet ; to Mr. For&ter he also xave a piece of cloth ; and the girl gave another ta Mr. Hodges. This custom of making presents, be- fore they receive any, is common with the natives of the Scuth S$a Islands ; but they never saw it pract ft5 190 CAPTAIN C60K'S twed in Netv Zealand before. Of all the various ar- ticles which were j^iven to the Chief, hitchets and spike-nails were the most valuable in hi« eyes. These he never would suffer to go out of his hands aftier he had once laid hold of them ; whereas many other articles he would lay carelessly down aijy lirhere, and at last leftve them bthind hitii. On the 20th they went ashore to exatnine the head of the bay, and in their way saw some ducks, which by their creeping through the bushes, they got a shot at, and killed one. The moment they had fired, the natives, who were not discover- ed before* set up a most hideous noise in two or three places close by them, and they kept up their clamouring noise, but did not follow them. Indeed they found, afierwai*ds, that they colild not J because of a branch ofihe rivej between th^m- Th^ falling tide obliged them to retire out of the rivei* to the place where they had spent the night. There they breakfasted, and afterwards embarked. Justasthe Captain was returning on board, he saw two men on the opposite shore, hallooing to him, which in- duced him to row over to them. He landed, with two others, unarmed; the two natives standing about 100 yards from the water side, with each a spear in his hand. When the three advanced, they retired ; but stood when the Captain advanced alone. It was some little time before they could be pre- vailed upon to lay down their spears. This, at last, one of them did ; and met the Captain with a grass plant in his hand, one end of ^vhich he gave him to hold, while he held tht- other. Standing in this manner, he began a speech, not one word of which •Was understood; and made some long piauses. As , 6oon as this ceremony was over, which wias not long, they saluted each other, tie then took his Hahou, or coat, from o|F his own back, and put ifr upon the Captain ; after which peace sieetned firmly estab- lished. More of his people joinitig drd not in the Itast alarm them ; on the contrary Vtitj ^uted €vi^iy ii^p^ AS they gaJne up) sfecoNi) Voyage. 191 Othci^ pooplfe were seen iti the skirts of the wood, but none of ^hem joined ; probably these were their vivefi and children. When ihey took leave, the natives followed them to their boat, and seeing the muskets lying across the stern, they made signs for them to be taken away, which being done, they catrie alonj^-side, and assisted to launch her. At this time it was ne^es*^ sary to look well after them, for they wai^ted to take away every thing they could lay their hands up- on, except the muskets. These they took cafe not to touch, being taught by the slaughter they had seen iToade among th^ wild fowl, to look upon them as in- struments of death. In the afternoon of the 21st» they went a seal hunt- ing. The surf ran so high th^t they could only land in one place, where they killed ten. These animals served three purposes ; the skins were made use of for the rigging; thfe fat gave oil for their laanps; and the flesh they ate. Their haslets are equal to that of a hog, and the flesh of some of them eats little inferior to beef-steaks. In the morning of the 23d, Mr. tickefsgill, Mr. Gilbert, and two othets, went to si cove called Cas- cade Cove, in order to ascend one of the mountains, .the summit of which they i*eached by two o'clock in the afternoon. In the evening they returned on hoard, and reported, that, inland, nothing was to be seen but barf eti mountains with huge craggy preci- pices, disjoined by valleys, or rather chasm s, if ight- lul tobfehold.. Having five geese left out of those brought froiii the Cape of Good Hop6, the Captain went with them next morning to Goose Cove (named so on this account,) where he l€h them. He chose this place for ti/j'o reasons : first, tiefe are no inhabitants to dis- turb them ; and secondly, herie being the most food, there is no dOubt but that they will breed, and may in tim^ft ispread oVer the whole country, and fully an- swer th^^ intention in leaving them. This day they Bftbt a^hltc kef Oh, Whith Agfefed fexactly with^Mr. Pennant's description, in bis British Zloology, of tfi^ 192 CAPTAIN COOK'S white herons that either now are, or were formerly in England* . ^ On the 27th they had hazy weather. In the morning Captain Cook set out, accompanied by Mr. Pickers- gill and the two Mr. Forstcrs, to explore an inlet seen the day before. After rowing about two leagues up Iti it was found to communicate with the sea, and to afford a better outlet for ships bound to the north than the one they came in. by. After making this discovery, and refreshing themselves on broiled fish and wild fowl, they set out for the ship, and got on board at eleven o'clock at niglxt. In this expedition they shot forty four birds, sea-pies, ducks, &c. with- out going one foot out of their way, or causing any otlK^r delay than picking them up. Having got the tents and every other article on board on the 28th, they weighed with a light breeze at S. W. and stood up the bay for a new pas^iiage. In the morning of the 11th of May, at nine o'clocic, they weighed, with a light breeze at S- E. and stood out to sea. It was noon before they got clear of the land. The couatry is exceedingly mountainous ; a prosr pect more rude and craggy is rarely to be met with; tor inland appears nothing but the summits of moun- tains of a stupendous height, and consisting of rocks that are totally barren and naked, except where they are covered with snow. But the land border- ing on the sea coast, and all the islands, are thickly clothed with woods, almost down to the water's edge. The trees are of various kinds, such as are common to other parts of the country, and are fit for the shipwright. hoqse-¥hite and black. On the 1st of March, they bore away for the land laid down in the charts by the name of Van Dietnea*s Land, discovered by Tasman in 1642, and supposed to join to New-Holland. Oil the 9th of March, they saw the land beanng K. N. £. al)out eight or nine leagues ^stant- It ap- peared moderately high, and uneaven near the sea- They hauled immediately up for it, and by noon "were within three or four leagues of it- Soundings from forty-eight to seventy fathoms, sand and brok- en shells. Here the country is hilly and well cloth- ed with trees ; they saw no inhabitants. The morning on the 10th of March being calm, the ship then about four miles from the land, sent the great cutter on shore with the second Lieutenant, to nd if there was any harbour or good bay. Soon af- ter, it beginning to blow very hard, the"^ - «de the signal^ the boattp tctarn aeverai tmh^- t^i^ ^^f SECOND VOYAGE. 19r did net see or hear any thing of it ; thf ship th0*^ thtec or four leagues off, which gave them mui% uneasines', as there was a very ^reat sea. At m\f past one, P. M. to their great satisfaction, the bodt returned on board safe. They landed, but with mneh difficulty; and saw several placea^ where the Indians had been, and one they lately had left, where they had a fire, with a great number of pearl escallop-shells r<)und it. which shells, they brought on board, with^ome burnt sticks and green bou^s« The weather obliged them to return without in- vestigating the place pi-opcrly : they saw no part to anchor at with safety* On the 16th they passed Mar! a *8 Islands, so nam- ed by Tasman ; they appear to be the same as the main land* The land hereabouts is much pleasant- er, low and even ; but no signs of a harbmir or bay^ rh'ijre a ship might anchor with safety. They stood to the eastward for Charlotte's Sound, with a light breeze at N. \V. in the morning of the 5th of April, and on the 6th they had the Sound open, but the wind being down, it obliged them to worlc up under the western shore, as the tide set^ up strong there when it runs down in mid -channel. At ten, the tide being at ebb, they were obligect to come-to with the best bower in thirty-eight fa- tlioms, close to some white rocks- As they sailed Qp the sound they saw the tops of high mountains covered with snow, which remains all the year ; about five o'clock on the Tth, anchored in Slip Cove» in ten fathoms water- The two following days were employed in clear- in? a place on Motuara island for erecting tents for the sick, (having then several on board much afflict- ed with the scur^,) the sail-makers and coopers. On the 9th, they were visited by three canoes with ^bout sixteen of the natives; and to mduce them to kring fish and other provisions^ they gave them se- *«ral things, with which they seemed highly pleas- ed. One of their people seeing something wrapt uj) In a better manner than common, had th« curiost- ^ts>examinc \Trh»t it was; and, to his great «U' - 198 CAPTAIN COOK'S % - f'se, foui^ it to be the head of a man lately killed* cy were very apprehensive of its being forced IP thepr* ; and particuliirly the man who seem- ed most interested in it, whose very flesh crept on his bon^jsfor fear of being punished by them, as Cap- tain Cook, on a former voyage, had expressed his great abhorrence of this unnatural act. They used every method to conceal the head, by shifting it from one to another ; and by signs endeavouring to convince them that there was no sifth thing among them, though they had seen it but a few minutes be- fore. They tlien took their leave, and went oa ^shore. They frequently mentioned Tupia, "which was the name of the ©ative of George's Island (or Ota- heite,) brought here by the Endeavour, and who died at Batavia ; and when they told them he was dead, some of them seemed to be very much con- cerned, and, as well as they could understand them, wanted to know whether he was killed, or if he died a natural death. By these questions, they are the same tribe Captain Cook saw. In the afternoon, they returned again with fish and fern roots, which they sold for nails and other trifles ; though the nails are what they set the most value on. The man and womaa who had the head did not come off again. Next morning the natives returned, to the num- ber of fifty or sixty, with their Chief at their head (as was supposed), in five double canoes, lliey gave their implements of war, stone hatchets, and clothes, &c. for nails and old bottles, which they put a great value on. A number of the head men came on board, and it was with some difficulty they got them out of the ship by fair means ; but on the appearance of a musket with a fixed bayonet, they all went into their canoes very quickly. On the 11th of May, they felt two severe shocks of an earthquake, but received no kind of damace. On the 17th they had the pleasure of seeir^ the ResoUition oflf the mouth of the Sound. Thtj im- mediately se,nti)ut the boats to her assistance ta tow SECOND VOYAGE. 199 Iter in, it being calm* Both ships felt uncpmrnon joy at their meeting after an absence of fourften >veeks> •^Here the transactions of both shifts commence ogam* Captain Cook knowing that scurvygrass, celery, and other vegetables, were to be found in Queen Charlotte's Sound, went, in the morning after his ar- rival, at day break, to look for some, and returned on board at breakfast with a boat-load. Being now satisfied, that enough was to be got for the crews of both ships, he gave orders that they .should be boiled, with wheat and portable broth, every morn- ing for breakfast; and with pease and broth for din- ner; knowmg, from experience, that these vegeta- bles, thus dressed, are extremely beneficial in re- moving all manner of scorbutic complaints. In the morning of the 20th, he sent ashore, to the watering place near the Adventure's tent, the only ewe and ram remaining, of those which he had brought from the Cape of G<^)d Hope, with an in- tent to leave in this country* Soon after, he visited the several gardens Captain Furneaux had caused to be made and planted with various articles ; all of which were in a flourishing state, and, if attended to by the natives, may prove of great utility to them. The next day he set some men to work to make a garden on Long Island, which he planted with gar- den seeds, roots, &c. . On the 22d in the morning, the ewe and ram he had with so much care and trouble brought to this place, were both found dead ; occasioned, as was supposed, by eating some poisonous plant. Thus his hopes of stocking this country with a breed of sheep, were blasted m a moment. About noon they were visiied, for the first time since they arrived, by some of the natives, whp dined with them ; and it was not a little they devoured. In the evening they were dismissed with presents* On the morning of the 24th they met a large ca- woe, in which were fourteen or fifteen people. One of the first questions they asked, was for Tupia, the person brought from Otaheite on the former vov- soo CAPTAIN COOK'S age ; and they seeiped to express some concen, when they^old them he was dead. These people made the same inquiry of Captain Funieaux when he iir^t arrived. Notiiing worthy of notice happened till the 29th, when several ot the natives made them a visit, and brought with them a quantity of fish, which they exchanged fi)r nails, Sec. One of these people Cap- tain Cooii took and shewed him some potatoes plant* ed there by Mr- Faunen, inaister of the Endeavour. There seemed to be no doubt of their succeeding; and the man was so well pleased with them, that he» of his own accord, began to hoe the earth up a« bout the plants- They next took him to the odier gardens, and shewed him the turnips, carrots, and parsnips ; roots Which, together with the potatoes will be of more real use to them than any other ar- ticles they had planted. It was easy to give then an idea ot these roots, by comparing them withsodi AS they knew* Two or three families of these people now took xtp their abode near the ships, employing them- selves daily in fishing, and supplying them with the fruits of their labour ; the good effects of which weie soon felt. For they were by no means such expert iishers as the natives ; nor were any of the EiigUsh methods of hshmg equal to theirs. On the 2d oi June, the ships being nearly ready to put to sea. Captain Cook sent on shore two goats, male and female- The former was something more than a year old ; but the latter was much older. She had jwo fine kids soire time before tliey arrived in Dusky bay, which were kril* d by cold. Captain Furneaux also put on shore, in Can- nibal Cove, a boar and two breeding sows ; so that there is reason to hope this country will, in time, be stocked with these animals, if they are not destroy- ed by the nati\es before they brcome wild ; for af- terwards they will be in no dnnger. In their excursion to the EUisi, they met with the largest seal they had ever 3<.en- It was swimming ©R the surface of the water, and suffered them tc SECOND VOYAGE. 201 oomc near enough to fire at it ; but without eflFect : for, after a chace of near an hour, they were obliged to leave it. By the size of this animal, it was pro- bably a sea lioness. It certainly bore much resem- blance to the drawing in Lord Anion's voyage. Early the next morning, some of the natives brought a large supply of fish. One of them agreed to go away with them ; but afterwards, that is, when it came to the point, he changed his mind ; as did some others who had promised to go with the Adventure. One of them desired Captain Cook to give his son a white shirt, which he accordingly did. The boy was so fond of his new dress, that he went all over the ship, presenting himself before every one that came in his way. This freedom used by him offended Old Will the ram goat, who gave him a butt with his horns, and knocked him back- ward on the deck. Will would have repeated his blow, uad not some of the p>eople come to the boy's assistance. The misfortune, however, seemed to him irreparable. The shirt was dirtied, and he was afraid to appear in the cabin before his father, nntil brought iu by Mr. Forster ; when he told a very lamentable story at^ainst Goury, the great dog (for so they called all the quadrupeds that were on board), nor could he be reconciled, till the shirt was washed and dried. This story, though trifling in it- self, will show how common it is to mistake these people's meanhig, and to ascribe to thenj customs they never knew even in thought. About nine o'clock, a large .double canoe, in which were twenty or thirty people, appeared in sight. The natives on board seemed much alarmed, saying that these were their enemies. Two of them, the one with a spear, and the other with a stone hatchet in his hapd» motmted the arm chests on the poop, and there, in a kind of bravado, bid those enemies defiance ; while the others, who were on board, took to their ca^joe, and went ashore, probably to secure the women and children. However, they came on board, and were very peac^ ''Met A trade sron commenced between the »2 202 CAPTAIN COOK'S sailors and them. It was not possible to hinder the former from sellin.e; the clothes from off tlieir backs for the merest trifles, things that were neither use- ful nor curious. This caused Captain (>ook to dis- miss the strangers sooner than he would have done. June the 4th they spent their Royal Master's birth-day in festivity ; having the company of Cap- tain Furneaux and all his officers. Double allow- ance enabled the seamen to share in the general joy. During their stay in the Sound, Captain Cook ob« served that this second visit made to this country had not mended the morals of the natives of either sex. He had always looked upon the females of New Zealand to be mor^ chaste than the generality of Indian women. VVhitevcr favours a few of them might hiive granted to the people in the Endeavour, it was generally done in a private manner, and the men did not seem to interest themselves much in 't. But now, he was told, they were the chief pro- moters of a shavi^etul traffic, and that, for a spike- nail, or any other thing they value, they would oblige the women\o prostitute themselves, whether they would or no ;• and even without any regard to tl\at privacy which decency required. On the 7th of June, at four in the morning, the wind being favourable, they unmoored, and at seven weighed and put to sea,' with the ^\dventure in company. Nothing material occurred till the 29th, when Captain Cook was informed the crew of the Adven^ ture were sickly ; And this he found was but too true. Her cook was dead, and about twenty of her best men were down with the scurvy and flvjx. At this time, his ship had only three men on the sick list, and only one of them attacked with the scurvy. Seve- ral more, however, began •to shew symptoms of it, and were put upon the woit, marmalade of carrots, rob of lemrins and oranges. To introduce any new article of food among sea- men, let it be ever so much for their good, requirtss both the example and authority of a comiuander ; vith(5(jxt both ot which, it will by dropt before the SECOND VOYAGE. 2^3 |eople arc sensible of the benefits resulting from it. ^iany of the people, offieers as well as seamen, at first disliked celerly, scurvy-grass, &c. being boile4 in the peace and wheat ; and some refused to eat it. But as this had no effect on Captain Cook's conduct, this obstinate kind of prejudice by little and little wore off; they began to like it as well as the others. On the 6th of August ,Captain Cook sent for Cap- tain Furneaux to dinner ; from whom he learnt that his peopke were much better, the flux having kft thew ; aad the scurvy was at a stand* Some cyder which he happened to have, and which he gave to the scorbutic people, cg^tributed not a httle to this happy change- The weather to-day wa^ cloudy, atid the Wind very unsettled- This seemed to announce the approach of the so much wished for trade-wind ; which, at eight o'clock in the evening, after two hours calm, and some heavy showers m rain, they actually got at S- E. The sickly state of the Adventure's crew made it necessary to make their best way to Otaheite, where they were sure of finding refreshments. Consequently they continued their courst^ to the west; at six o'clock in the evening, land was seen from the mastrhead, bearing west by south. Pror bably this was one of Bougainville's discoveries. Cap- tain Cook called it Doubtful Island ; the getting to a place where they could procure refreshments was iBore an object at this time than discovery. At day-break on the 12th, th^ discovered land right ahead, distant about two mdes ; so that day- Bght advised them of their danger but just in time. This proved another of these low or half-drowned islands, or rather a large coral shore, of about twenty leagues in circuit. The next morning at four, they made sail, and at day-break saw another of these low islands, which obtained the name of Adventure Island. IV!. de Bougainville very properly calls this cluster of low overflowed isles the Dangerous Archipelago. Th6 smoothness of tiie sea sufi&cicQtly gmvinged tl^m m N 504 CAPTAIN COOK'S that they were surrounded by them, and how n€CC!^^ sary it was to proceed with the utmost caution, es- pecially in the night. On the 15th, at five o'clock in the morning, they saw Osnaburg Island, or Maitea, discovered by Capt Wallis. Soon after they brought-to, and wait- ed tor the Adventure to come up with them, to ac- quaint Capt. Furneaux, that it was his intention to put into Oaiti-piha Bay, near the S. E- end of Ota- Seite, in order to get what refreshments thty could frc^r that part of the island, before they went down to Matavia. This done, they made sail, and at ax in tfie evening saw the island bearing west. They continued to stand on till midnight, when they brought-to, till four o'clock in the morning; and then made sail in for the land with a fine breeze at east. At day-break, they found themselvet not more than half a league from the reef. I'his made it necessaiy to hoist out their boats to tow the ship off; but all their efforts were not sufficient to keep them ffom being carried near the reef. A number of the inhabitants came off in canoes from diflferent parts, bringing with them a little fish, a few cocoa-nuts, and other fruits, which the}' exchanged for nails, beads, &c. Most of them knew Captain Cook again ; and many inquired for Mr. Banks and others who were with him before ; but not oife ask- ed for Tupia. • The calm continuing, their situation became still more dangerous. They were, however, not without hopes of getting ^ound the western point of the reef, and into the bay, till about two o'clock in the after- noon, when they came before an opening or break in the reef, through which they hoped to get with the ships. But on sending to examine it, found there was not a sufficient •depth oT water ; though it caus* ed such an indraught of the tide of flood through it, as was very ne^r proving fatal to the Resolution; for as soon as the ships got into this stream, they were carried with great impetuosity towards the . f pet The moment Caj taija Cook perceived this, be SECOND VOYAGE. 205 ordered one of the warping machines, which they bad in readiness, to be carried out with about fouv huodred fathoms of rope; but it had not the least effect. The horrors oi shipwreck now stared them in the face. They were not more than two cabies kngth from tlie breakers; and yet they could find no bottom to anchor, the only probable means they had left to save the ships. 1 hey , however, dropped an anchor; but before it took hold, and brought them up, the ship was in less then three fathom« water, and struck at every fall of the sea, which * broke close under their stern in a dreadful surf, and threatened them every moment with shipwreck* The Adventure very luckily brought up close upon their bow without striking. They presently carried ©ot two kedge anchors. with hawsers to each. These found ground a little without the bower, but in what depth they never knew. By heaving upon them, and cutting away the bower anchor; they got the ship a-float, where they lay some time in the greatest anxiety, expecting every minute that either the kedg^es would come home, or the hawsers be cut in two by the rocks^ At length the tide ceased to act in the same direc* tion. All the boats were ordered to try to tow oflT the Resolution ; and when they saw this was prac<* ticable, they hove up the two ked^res- At that mo» meat S. light air came off from the land, which so much assisted the boats, that they soon got clear of all danger* -[llien they ordered all the boats to as- sist the Adventure ; but before they reached her, fih#' Was under sail with the land breeze, leaving be* hind her three anchors, her coasting cable, and two hawsers, which were never recovered. Thus they were once more safe at sea, after narrowly escaping being wrecked on the very island they but a few days before so ardently wished to be at. The caim» after bringing them into this dangerous situation, very fortunately continued. For had the sea-breeze* as is usual, set in, the Resolution must inevitably have been lost, and probably the Adventure too. Daring the time they were in this critical situation. 206 CAPTAIN COOK'S a numDer of the natives were on board and aboot the ships. They seemed to be insensible of danger, shewed not tlie least surprise, joy, or fear, when the ships were striking, and left them a little before sun- set, quite uncoiiCe;rned. They spent the night, which proved squally and rainy, making short boards; and the next morning, being the 17th, they anchored in Oaiti-piha Bay, in twelve fathoms water, about two cables length from theshoi^, both ships being by this time crowded with a great number of the natives, who brought with them cocoa-nuts, plantains, bananas, apples, yams, and other roots, which they exchanged for nails and beads. To several who called themselves Chiefs, Captain Cook made presents of shirts, axes, and several other articles ; and in return, they promised to bring hogs and fowls ; a promise they never did, nor ever intended to perform. Early in the morning Captain Cook sent the two launches, and the Resolution's cutter, under the command of Mr- Gilbert, to endeavour to recover tiie anchors they had left behind them. They re- turned about noon with the Resolution's bower an- chor, but could not recover any of the Adventure's. The natives came off again with fruit, as the day before, but in no great quantity. Many, however, who called themselves Earees^ or Chiefs, came on board, partly with a view of getting presents, and partly to pilfer whatever came in their way. One of this sort of Eartes the Captain had most of the day in the cabin, and made presents to him and all his friends, which were not a few. At length he was caught taking t^gs>vhich did not belcng.to him, and handing thewt out at the quarter- gallery. Many compiaintrof the like nature were made to him against those on deck, which occasioned his turning them all out of the ship. The cabifi v;uest made good haste to be gone. The Captain was so much exasperated at his behaviour, that, after he bad got some distance from the ship, he filled two muskets over his head, which made him quit the car noe and take to the water c He then sent a boat to SECOND VOYAGE. say take up the canoe ; but as she came nearer the shore, the people from thence began to pelt her with stones. Being in some pain for her safety, as she was unarmed, he went himsClf in another boat to protect her, and ordered a great gun, loaded with ball, to be fired along the coast, which made them all retire from the shore, and he was suftered to bring away two canoes without the least show of op- position. In one of the canoes was a little boy, who was much frightened ; but he soon dissipated J^is^ fears, by giving him beads, and putting him on shore. A few hours after, they were ^11 good friends again ; and the canoes were returned to the first person vl^o came for them> It was not till the evening of this day that any one inquired after Tupia, and then but two or three. As soon as they learned the cause of his death, they were quite satisfied ; indeed it did not appear to them tliat it would have caused a moment's uneasi* ness in the breast of any one, had his death been oc- casioned by any other means than by sickness. Nothing worthy of note happenecton the 20th, till tlie dusk of the evening, when one of the natives made off with a musket belonging to the guard on shore. Captain Cook was'present when this happen- I' ed, and sent some of his people after him, which would have been to little purpose, had not some of the natives, of their own accord, pursued the thief* They knocked him down, took from him the musket, and brought it back. Fear on this occasion, certain- ly operated more with them than principle. They, however, deserve to be applauded for this act of justice ; for if they had not given their immediate assistance, it would hardly have been in his power to have recovered the musket by any gentle means whatever ; and by making use of any other, he was sure to lose more than ten times its value. In the evening Captain Cook was informed that Waheatoua was come into the neighbourhood, and wanted to see him. In consequence of this informa- tion, he determined to wait one day longer in order to lave 8^ interview with this Prince. According- S06 CAPTAIN COOK'8 ly, early the next morning, he s^t out in company •with Captain Furneaux, Mr. Forstcr, and several of the natives'. They found him seated on a stool, with a circle of people round him ; he knew Cap- tain Cook at first sight, and he the Prince, havio| seen each other several tiroes in 1769. At that tiihe he was but « boy, and went bv the name of Tearee; but upon the death of his father Waheatoua, he took upon him that name, • After the first salutation was over, having seated the Captain on the same stool with himself, and the other gentlemen on the ground by them, he began to inquire after several by name who were with him on his former voyage. He next inquired how tong they would stay ; and when he told him no longer than next day, he seemed sorry, asked the Captain to stay some months, and at last came down to five days ; pronusing, in that time, he should have. hogs in plenty. But as he had been here already a week, without so much as getting one, he could not put any faith in this promise. The present made him con- sisted of a sliirt, a sheet, a broad axe, spike nails, knives, looking-glasses, medals, beads, ^c. In re- turn he ordered a pretty good ho^ to be carried ta their boat. They staid with him all the morning, during which time he never suffered Captain Cook to gp from his side, where he was seated ; at length thejr took leave, in order to returti on board to dinner. They got, in the whole, to-day, as nmch fresh j^orfc 2i^ gave the crews of both ships a meal ; and this in consequence , of their having this interview with the Chief. Hie 24th, early in tlie morning, th^y put to sea with a light land breeze. The fruits they got here greatly contributed to* t/tirds the recovery erf the Adventure's sick people Many of them who had been so ill as not to be able to move without assistance, were in 't*h!s sftoftt time so far recbvered, that they could walkabotit of theflli- selveiB. It was not till the evening of Ihis day tbtft they arrived in Matavia Bay. . ^ . Before they got to an anchor, theSf de^si^ WWtf SECOND VOYAGE. 2€^ crowdied with the natives ; many of whom Captaiit Cook kneWr and almost all of them knew him. A i;reat crowd was assembled together upon the sborc*^ &mon^st whom was Otoo tilieir King. The Captaia was just going to pay hin^ a. vbit, when^ he was told hd was mataow^dt and gone to Oparree* He set out on the 26th for Oparree, accompanied bf Captain Furneaux, Mr* Forster^ and others, Maritata and his wife. As soon as they landed, they were conducted to Otoo, whom they found seated on the ground, under the shade of a treCrWithan knmtnse crowd romid him. After the firrstcom- pliments weve over, he presented him with such ar- ticks a^ were supposed to be most valuable in h\:^ eyesv well knt)wMig that it was his interest to gain tne friendship of this man. He also made presents to several of ais attendants ;; and, in return, they of- fered him clbth, which he refused to accept ; telling them that what hehad given was for 9ioy (friendship). The King inqiiired for Tupia, and all the gentlemen that were with the Captain in his former voyage^ by name* He promised that they should have some hogs the next day ;, but he had much ado to obtain^ SI promise from him to visit him on board. He said he was, mataou no tcfiaufioue^ that is^ afraid of the »ins» Indeed, all his actions shewed him a timorous Prince. He was about thirty years of age, six feet high, and a fine, personable; well made man as one can see.. All his subjects appeared uncovered before him, his father not excepted* What is meant by un- covering, is the making bare the head and shoul- deft, or wearing no sort of clothing above the breast. On the 27th,. earfy in the- moraing, Otoo, attended hy a numerous train, paid them a visit- He first sent into the ship a lavge quantity of cloth, fruits, a hog, and two large fish ; and, after some persuasion^ came aboard himself, ^ith his sister, a younger bro- ther, and several more attendants. 1 o all of them they made presents. • Captain Furneaux presented the King with two fine goats, male and female, which, it takenicare of, or rather if no care at all U token of ^ei». will ik> doubt multiply- yOL.1.. ' S 210 CAPTAIN COOK'S Very early in the morning on the 28th, they had another visit from Otoo» who brought more cloth, a pig, and some fruit- His sister, who was with him, and some of his attendants, came on board ; but he and others went to the Adventure, with the hke presents to Captain Fumeaux. It was not long be- fore he returned with Captain Furneaux on board the Resolution^ when Captain Cook made him a handsome return for the present he had brought him, and dressed his sister out in the best manner he could. She, the King's brother, and one or two more, were covered before him to-day. When Otoo came into the cabin, Ereti and some of his friends were sitting there. The moment they saw the King enter, they stripped themselves in great haste, je- ing covered before- Seeing Captain Cook took notice of it, they said Earee^ Earee ; giving him to under-- stand that it was on account of Otoo being present. This was all the .respect they paid him ; for they never rose from their seats, nor made any other obeisance. When the King thought prope>* to depart, he was carried to Oparrce in a boat ; where Cap- tain Cook entertained him, and his people, with the bagpipes (of which music they are very fond,) and dancing by the seamen. He, in return < ordered some of his people to dance also, which consisted chiefly of contortions. There were, however, some who could imitate th(i seamen tolerably well, both ui country dancer and hornpipes. Next morning after breakfast they took a trip to Oparree, again to visit Otoo- They made him up a present ofsuch things as he had not s,een before. One article was a broad-sword ; at the sight of which he was so intimidated, that Captain Cook had much ado to persuade him to accept of it, and to have it buckled upon him ; where it remained but a short time, before he desired leave to take it off and send U out of his sight. Soon after they were conducted to the theatre ; where they were entertained with a dramatic heava^ or yi/ay, in which were both dancing and comedy. Tlie per&rmer^ were five men, and one womau^ V iwiiiPP.1 SECOND VOYAGP. 211 who was* no less a person than the Kind's sister. The music consisted ot three drums only ; it lasted about sin hour and a half, or two hours, and, upon the whole, was well conducted- It was not possible for them to find out the meaning of the play' Some part seemed adapted to the present time, as Captain Cook's name was frequently mentioned. ()ther parts were certainly wholly unconnected with them. Tlie dancinj^-dress of the lady was very handsome, l)eing decorated with tassels, made of feathers, hang- ing irom the waist downward. As soon as all was over, the King himself dewred C'aptain Cook to de- part ; and sent into the boat different kinds of fruit and fish, ready dressed. With this they returned onboard; and the next morning the King sent them more fruit, and several sniall parcels . f fish. Nothing farther remarkable happened till ten o'clock in the evening, when they were alarmed with the cry of murder, and a great noise, on shore, near the bottom of the bay, at some distance from the en- campment. Captam Cook suspected that it was occasioned by some of his own people ; and imme- diately armed a boat, and sent on shore, to knoii^ the occasion of this disturbance, and to bring olf such of their people as should be found there. The boat soon returned with three marines, and a sea- man. Some others, belonging to the Adventure, were also taken, and being all put under confine- ment, the next morning the Captain ordered|>hem to be punished according to their deserts. H|^did not find that any mischief was done, and the people would confess nothing. This disturbance was sup- posed to be occasioned by their making too free with the women. Be this as it will, the natives were so much alarmed, that they fled from their habitations in the dead of the night, and the alarm spread many miles along the coast For when Captain Cook went to visit Otoo, in the morning, by appoint- ment, he found him removed, or rather fit d, many miles from the place of his abodcr Even there he was obliged to wait some hours, before he could see 312 CAPTAIN COOK'S him at an ; and wliea he did, he complained «f the last night*s riot As this was intended to be the last visit. Captain Cook had taken with him a present suka^ie to the occasion Among other things, were tliree Cape sheep, which he had seen before, and asked for ; for these people never lose a thing by not asking for it* He was much pleased with them ; though he could be but little benefited, as they were all vrethers ; a thing he was made acquainted with. The presents he got at this interview entirely removed his fears, and opened his henrt so much, that he sent for three hogs, which he presented to them ; one of them was \ ;3iy smalL They now took leave, and informed him ther should quit the island the next day ; at which he seemed much movedy and embraced the Captain several times. pn the 1st of September, the ships unmoored* Our old friend Pottatou, his wife^ or mistress, and some more of his fnends, came, in order to visit the (^ap< tain, lliey brought him a present of two hogs, and ^me fish ;^ and Mr* Pickersgill got two more hogs, oy exchancre, from Oamo: for he went ia thebcAt as far as Paparra, where ho saw old Oberea. She seemed much altered for the worse, poor, and of little conseq*ience. The wind, which had blown wes- terly all day, having shifted at once to the east, they out to sea ; and dismissed their friends soonei than they wished to go ; but well satisfied with the tecejition they had met with. Some hours before they got under sail, a yoonp man, whose tiame was Poreo, came and desired the Captain would take hira with him ; he consented, thinking he might he of senice on some occasions. Many more offered themselves, but he refused to take them. This youth asked for an axe and a spike-nail for his father, who was then on board* He had them accordingly, and they parted just as they wpre getting under sail, more like two stran- gers than father and son. This raised a doubt whe- ther it was 90 ; which was fEMther confirmed by & SECOND VOYAGE. 215 canoe, conducted by two men, coming along-side, as they were standing out of the bay, and demand- ing the young man in the name ot Otoo. He now saw that the whole was a trick to get something from him; well knowing that Otoo was not in the neighbourhood, and could know nothing of the matter. Poreo seemed, however, at first undeter- mined whether he should go or stay ; but he soon in- clined to the former. The Ciiptain then told them to return the axe and nails, and then he should go, (and so he really should) but they said they were ashore^ and so departed. Though the youth seem- ed pretty well satisfied, he could not refrain from weeping, when he viewed the land astern. As soon as they were clear of the bay, and their boats in, they directed their course for the island of Huaheine, where they intended to touch. They made it the next day, and spent the night, making short boards, under the north end of the island. At day light in the morning of the 3d, they. made sail for the harbour of Owharre ; in which the Resolu- tion anchored, about nine o!clock, in twenty-four fa- thoms water. Several of the natives, by this time, had come off, bringing with them some of the pro- ductions of the island ; and as soon as the ships were in safety. Captain Cook landed with Captain Fur- neaux, and was received by the natives with the ut- most cordiality. Some presents were distributed among them ; and presently after, they brought down hogs, fowls, dogs, and fruits, which tliey wil- lingly exchanged for hatchets, nails, beads, 8cc. The like trade was soon opened on board the ship ; so that they had a fair prospect of being plentifully supplied with fresh pork and fowls ; and,, to people in their situation, this was no unwelcome thing. Early the next morning, Lieutenant Pickersgill sailed with the cutter, on a trading party, toward the south end of the isle. Captain Cook also sent another trading party on shore near the ship, with which he went himsfelf, to see that it was properly conducted at the first setting out, a very necessary Doint to be attended to. ^ S2 214 CAPTAIN COOK'S Oh the 4th, Captain Cook wanted to go to Ort^, the King ; but was told he would come to him ; which be accordingly did, fell upon his neck, and embraced him. This was by no means ceremonious ; the tears, which trickled plendfuUy down his vene» rable old cheeks, sufficiently bespoke the language of his heart. His friends were also introduced tq them, to whom they made presents. In return he gave them a hog, and a quantity of cloth, promising that all their wants should by supphed ; and it will soon appear how well he kept his word. At length they took leave, and returned on board ; and somq time after^ Mr. Pickersgill returned also with .four- teen hogsp Many more were got by exchanges on shore, ^nd along-side the ship ; besides fowls, and fruit in abundance. This good old Chief paid them a visit early in the morning on the jfth, together with some of bis friends, bringing a hog and some fruit- He earned his kindness so far, as not to fail to send every day, for Captain Cook*s table, the very best ready dress- ed fruit and roots, and in great plenty., Lieutenant Pickersgill being again sent with the two boats in search of hogs, returned in the evening with twenty- eight ; and about four times that numl>er were pur- chased on shore, and along-side the ships. Next day the people crowded in from every part with hogs, fowls, and fruit, so that they present- ly filled two boats. Oree himself presented a large hog and a quantity of fruitf Oree and Captain Cook were professed friends in all the forms custot mary among them ; and he seemed to think that this could not be broken by the act of any othe^ persons* On the 7th, early in the morning, while the ships were unmooring. Captain Cook went to [>ay his farewell visit to Oree, accompained by Captain Fur* neaux and M:*. For^ter. They took with thenn, for a present, such things as were not only valuable, but useful. He also left with him the inscription plate he had before in keeping, and another small cop- per-plate» on which wer« ^gravod tbe^e wordl^ iTe island. He then gave a hog; and after trading for six or eight more, and loading the boat with fruit, they took leave, when the good old Chief embraced the Captain with tears in his eyes. When they returned to the ships, they found them crowded round with canoes full of hogs, towls, and fruit, as at their first arrival. Oree caine on boaix], and staid till they were a full half league out at sea ; then tx)k a most affectionate leave, and went away ia a canoe, conducted by one man and hiiriself, all the others having gone long before. During their short stay at the small bwt fertile isle of Huaheine, they procured to both ships not less than three hundred hogs, besides fowls and fruits ; and had they staid longer, might have got many more ; for none of these articles of rc-r freshinent were seemingly diminished, but appear- ed every where in as gi eat abundance as evef Before they quitted this island. Captain Furneaux agreed to receive on board his ship a young tnan nam- ed Omii, a native of Ulietea, where he had some property, of which he had been dispossessed by the people of Bolabola. Captain Cook wondei'ed that Captain Furneaux would encumber himself with this man, who, in his opinion, was not aproper sam- ple of the inhabitants of these happy islands, not hav- ing any advantage of birth, or ace necessary presents. H45 was seated in his own house, which stood near the water- side, whrre he and his fi lends received them with great cordiality. He expressed nuich satisfaction ,at seeing Captain Cook Hgain, aikd desired that they might exchange Barnes, which he accordingly agreed to. This is the strong 'St mark of friendship they can shew to a stranger- He inquired after Tupia, and all the gentlemen bv name, who were with him when he first visited tie island. A^e** they had made the Chief and his friends the necessary presents, they went on board with a hog, and some fruit, received from him in return ; ^nd in the afternoon he ^ay^ iai8 CAPTAIN COOK^S them another hog, still larger, without asking for the least acknowledgment. • After breakfast, on the 10th,' Captain Furneaux and Captain Cook paid the Chief a visit ; and they were entertained by him with such a comedy, or dramatic heava^ as is generally acted in these isles. The music consisted of three drums ; the actors were seven men, and one woman, the Chief's daughter. The only entertaining part of the drama, was a theft committed by a man and his accomplice, in such a masterly manner, as sufficiently displayed the genius of the people in this vice. The theft is discovered before the thief has time to carry off his prize ; then a bcuffle ensues with those set to guard it, who though four to two, are beat off the stage, and the thief and his accomplice bear away their plun- der in triuinph. Captain Cook says," I was very attentive to the whole of this part, being in full ex- pectation that it would have ended very differently. For I had before been informed that Teto (that is, the Thief> was to be acted, and had understood that the theft was to be punished with death, or a good ti/iarrahying (or beating) a punishment, we are told, they inflict on such as are guilty of this crime. Be this as it may, strangers are certainly excluded from the protection of this law ; then they yob, with impunity, on every occasion that offers." After dinner, on the 11th, Captain Cook had a visit from Oo-oorou, the principal chief of the isle He was introduced by Oreo, and had brought with him, as a present, a large hog", for which he had a Jiandsomfe return. Oreo employed himself in buying hogs, and he made good bargains. On the 16th, Captain Cook was told that hisOta- heitean young man Poreo, had taken a resolution to leave him, and was uctually. gone ; having met with a young woman, for whom he had contracted a friendship, he went away with her, and he saw him no more. Having new got on board a large supply of re- freshments, the Captain determined to put to sea the next morning, and made the same known to the SECOND VOYAGE. 21^ Chief, who promised to see him a^in before he de- parted. At four o'clock they began to unmoor, and as soon as it was light, Oreo, his son, and some of his friends, came on board. Many canoes also came oft* with fruit and hogs ; the latter they even begged of them to take from them, calling out Tiyo boa atoi^ I am your friend, take my hog, and give me an axe. But the decks were already so full of them, that they could hardly move ; having on board both ships, between three and four hundred. By the in- crease of their stock, together with what they had salted and consumed, it appeared that they got at this island 400, or upwards. Many, indeed, were only roasters ; others again weighed one hundred poundsi or upwards ; but the general run was from forty to sixty. It is not easy to say how many they might have got, could they have found room for all that were offered them. The chief and his friends did not leave them till tliey were under sail ; and before he went away, pressed them much to know if they would notreturn,- and when ?— questions which were daily put by many of these islanders- The Otaheitean youth's leaving Captain Cook proved of no consequence, as many young men of, this island voluntarily offered to come away with them : he thought proper to take on board one, who was about seventeen or eighteen years of age, named Oedidee, a native of Bolabola, and a near relation of the great Opoony, chief of that island. Soon after their arrival at Otaheite, they were in- formed that a ship, about the size of the Resolution, had been in at Owhaiurua harbour, near the S. E^ end of the island, where she remained about three weeks; and had been gone about three months. They were told also that fqur of the natives were goi>e away in her, whose names were Debede- bea—Paoodou— Tanadooee— and Opahiah.-^At this tirte, they conjectured this was a French ship, but on their arrival at the Cape of Good Hope, they learned that she was a Spaniard* which had been sent out from America. The Otaheiteans com- plahied of a disease communicated to them by th^ \. sso CAPTAIN COOK'S people in this ship, ivhich they said affected ttie head, throat, and stomach, andat length killed them. They seemed to dread it much, and were continu* all^ inauiring if they had it This ship they distin* fuish^fl by the name of Fahai no Fefi-fie^ (ship of *eppe) and called the disease Apa no Pefifie^ just ^B they call the venereal disease A/ia no Fretane^ (Englisli disease,) though they, to a inan^ say it va» brought to the isle by M. de Bougainville; btit they thought M-^ de Bougainville eame from Pretane^ as well as every other ship which ha& touched at the isle. The island of Otaheite, whiclt in the year 1767 i|nd 1768, swarmed, as it were, with hogs and fowls» "was now so ill supplied with these animals, that Kardly any thing eould induce the owners to part ivith them. ^ The people here seem to be as happy as any un- 4eT heaven ; and well they may, for they possess not <{nly the necessaries, but many of the luxuries o|[ li£e, in the greatest profusion. As Captain: Cook had some reason to believe, that amongst their religious customs,, human sacriiiGes ^ere sometimes considered necessary, he went one 4l^ toa Jl^&miin Miatavia, in company with Cap« ^m Fumeaux ; having with them, as they had iipon all other occasions, one of their own men whcr s^poke their language tolerably well>, and several of the natives, one of whonv appeared to bean intel- ligenty sensible mskn. In the Murai was a Tujfia/ioWt Hfn v^hich lay a dead corpse and some viands. He liiE^an with asking questions i^lating to the seve- ^Tobjects betbi^im ; if the plantains, &k:. were for ^H M^tua ? If they sacrificed to the Eatua^ hogs„ ii^Pgs, fowls, &c> } To all of which he answered in imakffirmative. !nie man of Si^om 'he made these inquiries, as >'WiliU as some others, took some pains to explain this ^QiM^MiD to^them ; but they were not masters enough m those which he might meet with on board the ships in one of the naval potts, or in the purlieus of Covent-Garden and Drury-Lau^', VOL. I. - X .0- ■<>■ - r 'i s .1 J*' 222 CAPTAIN COOK'S It must, however, be allowed that Ihey are coin.| pletely versed in the art of coquetry, and that veryi Few of them fix any bounds to their conversation It is, therefore, no wonder that they have obtained the character of libertines. BOOK IL Departure from the Society Isles^ to their Return to, am leaving than the Second Time. AFTER leaving Ulietefa on the irth of SeptemberJ 1773, they steered io the West, and at two] o'clock, p. M. on the 1st of October, they saw the] Island of Middltbur.e;, bearing W. S. W. As they approached the shore, two canoes, each conductedl by two or three men, came boldly along-side, and] some of them entered the ship without hesitation.! This mark of confiJence gave Captain Cook a good! opinion of these islanders, and determined him tol visit them if possible. They found good anchorage, and came-to in twenty -five fathoms water They] had scarcely got to an anchor, before they were sur- rounded by a great number of canoes full of people,] •who had brought with them cloth, and other curiosi- ties,^ which they exchanged for nails, &c. Aniongj them^was one, whom, by the authority he seemedl to have over the t)thers, was found to be a Chief,] and accordingly the Captain made him a present of a hatchet, spike-nails, md several other articHI ■with which he was highly pleased. Thus he obtainj ed the friendship of this Chief, whose name wasj Tiooi^y. Soon after, a party of them embarked in two boats, in company with Tioony, who conducted] them to a little creek formed by the rocks, rightl abreast of the ships, where landing was extremel/j leasy, and the boats secure against the surf. Hercj tftey fcmnd ^p imm^i^e yrowd of people, who wet SECOND VOYAGE. 223 corned them on shore with loud acclamations. Not lone of them had so much as a stick, or any other weapon in his hand ; an indubitable sign of tin ir pa- cific intentions. They thronged so thick round the boats with cloth, matting, &c. to excliange for nails, that it was some time before they could get room to land. They seemed to be more desirous to give than receive ; for many who could not get near the boats, threw into them, ovtr the others' heads, whole bales of cloth, and then retired, without either asking or waiting to g(it any thing in return- The Chief conducted us to his house, about three hundred yards from the sea, at the head of a fine I lawn, and under the shade of some shaddock trees. iThe situation was most delightful. In front was the sea, and the ships at anchor ; behind, and on each side, were plantations, in which were some of the richest productions of nature. The floor was laid with mats, on which they were placed, and the peo- ple seated themselves in a circle rourd them on the outside. Having the bagpipes with them. Captain Cook ordered them to be played ; and, in return,? the Chief directed three young ^vomen to sing a I song, which they did with a very good grace ; and having made each of them a jiiresent, this immedi- lately set all the women in the circle a singing. I Their songs were musical and harmonious. After I sitting here some time, they were conducted into one I of the adjoining" plantations, whei'e the Chief had another house, into which they were introduced. I Bananas and cocoa-nuts were set before them to cat, and a bowl of liquor prepared in their presence of the juice of JEava for them to drink. But Cap- Itaip Cook was the only one who tasted it ; the man- , uer of brewing it having quenched the thirst of every one else. The bowl was, however, soon emp- tied of its contents, of which both men aiid women' partook. Before they had well viewed the plantation it was PDon, and they returned on board to dinner, with the Chief in their company. He sat at table, but eat nothing ; which, as they had fresh pork roasted^ / . • , ^^^^.^-'^^^, • - - . ., .- - 224 CAPTAIN COOK'S •was a little extraordinary. Near some of the houses, and in the lanes that divided the plantations, •were running about some hogs and very large fowls, ivhich were the only domestic animals they saw ; and these they did not seem willing to part with, which determh)ed them to leave this place. The evening brought every one on board, highly delighted with the country, and the very obliging behaviour of the inhabitants, who seemed to vie with each other in doing what they thought would give pleasure. After making the Chief a present, consisting of various articles, and an assortment of garden seeds. Captain Cook gave him to understand that they were going away, at which he seemed not at all moved. While he was in the ship, or in h boat, he continued to exchange iish-hooks for noils, and engrossed the trade in a manner wholly to hini< self; but when on shote, he did not offer to make the least exchange. As soon as tne Captain was on board, they made sail down to Amsterdam. Three men belonging to Middleburg, who, by some means or other, had been left on board the Adventure, now quitted her, and swam to the shore ; not knowing that they in- tended to stop at this isle, and having no Inclination! as may be supposed, to go away v/ith them. As soon as they opened the west side of the isle, they were met by several canoes, each conducted by three or four fr>en. They came boldly along-side, presented them with some £ava root, and then came on board, without farther ceremony, inviting them, by all the friendly signs they could make, to go to their island, and pointing to the place where they should anchor; at least they so understood them. After a few boards they anchored in Van Piemen's Road, little more thun a cable's length from the breakers which line the coast. After breakfast Captain Cook landed, accompa- nied by Captain Furneaux, Mr. Forster, and several ]<^' the officers ; having along with them a Chief, or person of some note, whose name was Attago, who md attached lumself to the Captain from the first SECOND VOYAGE. 2§5 rfioment of his coming on board, which was beforq they anchored. As soon as they were landed, all the gentlenoen set out into the country, acconnpaniedby some of the natives. But the most of then) remained with Cap- tain Furneaux and Captain Cook, who amused themselves some lime in distributing presents amongst the natives* After walking a little way into the country, they returned to the landing-place, and there found Mr. Wales in a laughable, though distressin.^ situiition. The boats which brought them on shore not being able to get near the landing-place, for want of a sufficient depth of water, he pulled off his shoes and stockings to walk through, and as soon as he got on dry land, he put them down betwixt his legs to put on again, but they were instantly snatched away by a person behind him, who imnnediately mixed with the crowd. It was impossible lor liim to follow the man bare-footed over the sharp coral rocks, ^.vhich compose the shore, without having his feet cut to pieces. The boat was put bacwto the ship, his companions had each made his way through the crowd, and he left in this Condition alone. The Chief soon found out the thief, and recovered his shoes and stockings. The old Chi^f probably think- ing they migiit want water on board, he conducted tlvein to a plantatic.i hard by, and shewed them a. pool of fresh waier, thougii they had not made the least inquiry after any. From hence they were conducted down to thq shore of Maria Bay, or N. E. side of the isle 5 where, in a boat-hv)use, was shewn a fine large dou- ble canoe not yet launched- The Chief did not fail to make them sensible it belonged to himself. Mr. Forster and his party spent the day in th^ country botanising, and several of the ofl&cers were out shooting. All of them were very civilly trer^ted by the natives. A boat from each ship was employ- ed trading on shore, and bringing off their cargoes as soon as they were laden, which was generally in a short; time* By tlus method they got cheaper, ^ 226 CAPTAIN COOK'S •with less trouble, a good quantity of fruit, as well ai other refreshments, from people who had no canoes to carry them off to the ships. Pretty early in the morning, the 6th of October, the pinnace was sent ashore to trade as usual ; but soon returned. Tl^e officer informed the Captain that the natives were for taking every thing out of the boat, and, in other respects, were very trouble- some. The day before, they stole the grapling at the time the boat was riding by it, and carried it off undiscovered. It was ?iow judged necessary to have a guard on shore, to protect the boats and people ■whose business required their being there ; accord- ingly, they sent a few of the marines, under the command of Lieutenant Edgcumbe. The different trading parties were so successfulas to procure for both ships a tolerable good supply of refreshments. In consequence of which. Captain Cook, the next morning, gave every one leave to purchase what curiosities they pleased. After this, jt was astonishing to see with what eageniess every one caught at every thing he saw. It even went so far as to become the ridicule of the natives, who of- fered pieces of sticks and stones to exchange- One T/aggish boy took a piece of human excrement on the end of a stick, and held it out to every one he ^ met with. ,.^,., , A man got into the inaster's cabin through the outside scuttle, and took out some books and other things. He was discovered just as he was gettin;^ out into his canoe, and pursued by one of the boats, •which obliged him to ouit the canoe and take to the water. The people in the boat made severtil Itttempts lo lay hold on him ; but he, as often, dived finder the beat, and at last unshipped the rudder, •which rendered her ungoveniable ; by this means ^ he got :;le^r o^ Some other very dari ?; thefts ■were committed at the landing-place. One fellow took a seaman's jacket out c* the boat, and carried |t oiT, in spite of all tfiat the people in her could do. Till he was pursued and lired at by them, he y^ot^Li not p^rt witb it ; noit wo^ld be bav^ ^on? SECOND VOYAGE. 22r it then, had not his landing been intercepted by some of the crew who were on shore. The rest of the natives, who were very numerous, took very little notice of the whole transaction ; nor werQ . they the least alarmed when the man was fired at. Attago visited Captain Cook agjain the next morn- ing, the 7th, and brought with him a hog, and assist- ^ ed him in purchasing several more- This day the Captain was told by the officers who were on shore, that a far greater man than any they had yet seen was come to pay then a visit. Mr. Pickersgill inform- ed th^m that he had seen him in the country, and found that he was a man of some consequence, by the extraordinary respect paid to him by the peo^ pie. Some, when they approached him, fell on their f-ices, and put their head between their feet ; and no one durst pass him without permission. Mr. Pick- ersgill, and another of the gentlemen, took hold of his arms, and conducted him down to the landing place, where the Captain found him seated .with soi much sullen and stupid gravity, that notwithstand- ing what had been told him, he really took ^im for an ideot, whom the ])eople, from some superstitious notions, were ready to worship. He saluted and spoke to him; but he neither answered, nor took the least ruticp of him or any one ; nor did he alter a single feature in his countenance. This confirmed him in his opinion, and he was just going to leave him, when one of the natives undertook to undeceive him ; which he did in such a manner as left no room to doubt that he was the king, or principd man on thq , island. Accordingly he made him a present, which consisted of a shirt, an axe, a piece of red cloth, a looking-glass, some nails, medals, and beads. He received these things, or rather suffered them to be put upon him, and laid by him, wunout losing u bit of his gravity, speaking one word, or turning his head either to the right or left ; f itting the wh- le time like a statue ; in which situatioii he left him, to return on board, and he soon after retired. The Captain had not been long on board before word ^a^ brought that a quantity of provision had come £28 CAPTAIN COOK'S fi*om this Chief. A boat was sent to bring it fFom the shore ; and it consisted of about twenty baskets of roasted bananas, sour bread and yams, and a roasteu pi;^ of about twenty pounds weiijht. Mr. Ed^cumbe and his party were just re-embarking >vhen thes - were brought to the water-side, and the bearers said it was a present from the Areeke^ that is, the knig of the island, to the Areeke olthe ship. After this they were no longer to doubt the dig- nity of this sullen Chief, whose name was Kohaghee- too-Fallangou. The Captain went on shore and made this great man a suitable return, and immediately prepared for quitting the place. In heaving in the coasting cable, it parted in the middle of its length, being chafed by the rocks. By this accident they ?t>st he other halt, together wiih the anchor, which ', u forty fathoms water, without any buoy to it. The best bower cable suffered also by the rocks; by vhich a judgment may be formed of this anchorage. At ten o'clock they got liirder sail- I'he supplies they got at this isle we^e about one hundred andfif- ^y pig^t twice that number of fowls, and as many bananas and cocoa-nuts as they could find room for, with a few yams ; and had their stay been longer, they, no doubt, might have got a great deal more. These Islands were first discovered by Captain Tasman in January, 1642-3 ; and, by him, called Amsterdam and Middleburg. But the former is called by thv? natives Ton-ga-ta-bu, the latter Ea- oo-wee. The produce and cultivation of Middleburg and Amsterdam are the same with this difference, that a part only of the former, whereas the whole of the latter, is cultivated. The lanes or roads necessar/ for travelling, are laid out in so judicious a mannei as to open a free and easy communication from one part ot the island to the other. Here are no towns or villages ; most of the houses are built m the plan- tations, with no other order than what convenience Tetiuires ; tij^ey arc neatly cgDStructcdi but do not SECOND ^^OYAGE. 529 ptain I ailed ^ i''';^ exceed those in the other isles. The naterials pf which they are built, are the same ; and some little variation in the disposition of the framing, is all the difference in their construction. The f oor is a little raised, and covered with thick strong mats ; the same sort of matting serves to inclose them on the windward side, the other being open. They have little areas before the most of them, which are gc* nerally planted round with trees, or shrubs of orna» roent, whose fragrancy perfumes the very air in which they breathe. Their household furniture con- sists of a few wooden platters» cocoa-nut shells, an4 some wooden pillows shaped like four-footed stools orformt. Their common clothing, with the addition of a mat, serves them for bedding. They saw no other domestic animals amongst them but hogs and fowls, llie former are of the same sort as at the other isles in this sea ; but the latter are far superior, being as large as any we have in Europe, and their flesh equally good, if not bet<* ter. They saw no rats in these isles, nor any other i wild quadrupeds, except small liaards. The land birds are pigeons, t»irtle-doves. parrots, paroquets, owls, bald couts with a blue plumage, a variety of §mall birds, and large bats in abundance The pro- duce of the sea they knew but little of • it is rea-i- sonable to suppose that the same sorts of fish are itound here as at the other isles. Their fishing in- mments are the same ; that is, hooks made of mo^ (' er of pearl, gigs with two, three, or more prongs, and nets made of a very fine thread, with the meshes wro""'ht exactly like those of Europe. But noth- ing can be a moixx demonstrative evidence of their ingenuity than the construction and make of their canoes, which in point of neatness and workmanship, exceed every thing of the kind they saw in this sea. They are bwilt of several pieces sewed together with bandage, in so neat a manner, that on the outside it is difficult to see the joints. AH the fastenings are on the inside, and pass through kants or ridges, which are wrought on the edges and ends of the se- veral boards which compose the vessel, for that pur- 230 CAPTAIN COOK'S pose. At each end is a kind of deck one third pan of the whole length, and open in the middle. In some the middle of the deck is decorated with a row of white shells, stuck on little pegs wrought out of the same piece which composes it. These single canoes have all out-riggers, and are sometimes navigated "with sails, but more generally with paddles, the blades of which are short, and broadest in the mid- dle. The two vessels which compose the double ca- noe are each about sixty or seventy feet long, and four or five broad in the middle ; and each end ter- minates nearly in ^ point ; so that the body or hull differs a little m construction from the single canoe ; but is ptU together exactly in the same manner ; these ha* , rising in the middle round the open part, in the m of a long trough, which is made of boards closely fitted together, and well secured to. the body of the vessel. 1 wo such vessels are fasten- ed together parallel to each otlier, about six feet asunder, by strong cross beams, secured by banda- ges to support the upper part of the rismgs above mentioned' Over these beams and others, which are supported by stantions fixed on the bodies of the canoes, is laid a boarded platform. All the parts which compose the double canoe, are made as strong and light as the nature of the work will admit, and may be imrnerged in water to the very platform, %vithout being in danger of filling. Nor is it possi- ble, under any circumstance whatever, for them to sink, so long as they hold together. Thus tliey are not only made vessels of burden, but fit for cUs- tant navigation. They are rigged with one mast, "which steps upon the platform, and can easily be raised or taken down ; and are sailed with a latteen- sail, or triangular one, extended by a long yard, ^vhich is a little bent or crooked. The sail is made of mats; the rope they made use of is laid exactly like those of Europe, and some of it is four or five inches. On the platform is built a little shed or hut, "which screens the crew from the sun and weather, and serves Hw other purposes. They also carry a moveable fire-hearth, which is a square, but shallow. SECOND VOYAGE. 231 k'ough of wood, filled with stones. The way into the hold of the conoe is from off the platform, down a sort of uncovered hatchway, in which they stand to bail out the water. These vessels are navigated either end foremost, and that, in changing tacks, thpy have only occasion to shift orjib round the sail ; buw of this Captain Cook says he was not certain, as he had not then seen any under sail, or with the mast and sail an end, but what were a considerable dis- tance from him. Their working tools are made of stone, bones, shells, &c. as at the other islands. When they viewed the work which is performed with these tools, they were struck with admiration at the ingenuity and patience of the workman. I'heir knowledge of the utility of iron was no more than sufficient to teach them to prefer nails to beads, and such trifles ; some, but a very f 5w» would exchange a pig for a large nail, or a hatchet. Old jackets, shirts, cloth, and even rags, were in more esteem than the best edge tool they could give them ; consequently they got but few axes but what were presents. The nails which were given by the officers and crews oi* both ships for curiosities, &c. with those given for refreshments, amount to no less than five hundred weight, great and small. The only piece of iron they saw among them was a small broad awl, which had been made of a nail. Both men and women are of a common size with Europeans ; and their colour is that of a lightish copper, and more uniformly so than amongst the inhabitants of Otaheite and the Society Isles. The women are the merriest creatures they ever mejt with, and will keep chattering by one's side, without the least invitation, or considering whet!her they are un- derstood, provided one does but seem pleased with them. In general they appear to be modest, al- though there was no want of those of a different stamp ; and as they had yet some ▼enereal coini- plaints on board. Captain Cook took all possibe care to prevent the disorder being communicated to them. Upon most ©•casioas they shewed a strong propeij-j '\ 232 CAPTAIN COOK^S sity to pilfering ; in which they were fall as expert as the Otaheiteaiis. They have fine eyes, and in general good teeth, even to an advanced age. Tlie custom of tattowmg^ or puncturing the skin prevails. The men are tai tow- ed from the middle of the thigh to above the hips. The women have it only on their arms and fingers ; and there but very slightly. The dress of both sexes consists of a piece of clothj or matting, wrapped rourtd the waist, and hanging down below the knees. From the waist, upwards, they are generally naked ; and it seemed to be a custom to anoint these parts every morning. My friend Attago never failed to do it ; but whether out of respect tome, or from custom, I will not pre- tend to say ; though I rather think from the latter^ as he was not singular in the practice- Their ornaments are amulets, necklaces, and bracelets of bones, shells, and beads of mother of pearl, tortoise-shell, &c« which are worn by both sexes. They make various sorts of matting ; some of a very fine texture, which is generally used for clothing ; and the thick and stronger bort serves to sleep on, and to make sails for their canoes, 6cc. Among other useful utensils, they have vaiious sorts of baskets ; some made of the same materials as their mats ; and others of the twisted fibres of cocoa nuts. These are not only durable but beautiful, being ge- nerally composed of different colours, and studded with beads made of shells or bones. They have many little nick-nacks amongst them ; which shew that they neither want caste to design, nor skill to execute, whatever they take in hand. The women frequently entertained them with songs, in a manner which was agreeable enough. They accompany the music by snapping their fin- gers, so as to keep time to it. Kot only their voices, but their music, was very harmonious, and they have a considerable compass in their notes. Their only instruments are a flute and a drum. The common method of saluting one another is by touching or meeting Hoses, as is done in New Ziea- SECOND VOYAGE. ■t ■ ■■ X' ■ land ; and tlieif sign of peace to strangers, is the displaying a white flag or flags ; at least such were displayed to them when they first drew near the shore. From their unsuspicious manner of coming onboard, and of receiving them at first on shore, it appears they are seldom disturbed by either foreign or domestic troubles^ They are, however, not un- provided with very formidable weapons ; such as clubs and spears, made of hard wood, also bows and arrows. The clubs are from three to five feet in length, and of various shapes. Some of their spears have many barbs, and must be vei7 dangerous wea- pons where they take effect. They have a singular custom of putting every thin,? you give them to tiieir Meads, by way of thanks. Very often the women would take hold of Captain Cook's hand, kis» it, and lift it to their heads. A very peculiar barbarism prevails in these isles.^ They observed that the greater part of the people, [both men and women, had lost one, or both tneir little fingers.* They endeavoured but in vain to find out the reason of this mutilation; for no one would take any pains to inform them- It was nei* ther p2culiar to rank, age, or sex ; nor is it done at iany certain age, as they saw those of all ages on [whom the amputation had been just nnade ; and, ex- [cept some young children, they .found few who had both hands perfect. As it was more common among I the aged than the young, some were of opinion that it I was occasioned by the death of their parents, or I some other near relation. But Mr. Wales one day I met with i). man, whose hands were both perfect, of jsuch an advanc*^d age, that it was hardly possible his parents could be living. They also bum or make incisions in their cheeks, near the cheek-bone. The reason of this was equally unknown. In some, the wounds were quite fresh ; in others, they could only be knojwn by the scars, or colour of the skin. I They all appeared healthy, strong, and vigorous; * This cusiom is not peculiar to the inhabitants of the Priendly Isleft. See Uecherches Philosophique* siir Ics A* pericains, tofc. i». p. 353. &o. ■^ #^ 234 CAPTAIN COOK'S a proof of tHe goodness of the climate in which they live. ♦ I They made sail to the' southward, having a gentle! gale at S. E. by E. it being Captain Cook's intentioal to proceed directly to Queen charlotte's Sound ia| , New Zealand, there to take in wood and water, audi then to go on farther discoveries to the South andl East. He was very desirous of having some inter-l course with the natives of this country as far tothcl North as possible ; that is, about Poverty or Tolaga Bays, where he apprehended they were more civj. lizedthanat Queen Charlotte's Sound, in order tol give them some hogs, fowls, seeds, roots, &c. which he had provided for the purpose. They arrived on the 21st, and stood as near the shore as they couldl with safety. They observed several people upon it, V* but none attempted to come oft* to them. As soon as the Adventure was up with them, they made saill for Cape Kidnappers, which they passed at fivcl o'clock in the morning, and continued their course! along-shore till nine, when, being about threel leagues short of Black-head,they saw some canoesputi off trom the shore. Upon this they brought-to, in or- wo sows, four* hens, two cocks- The seeds were such a^ are most useful, viz. wheat, French and kidney beans, pease, «abbage, turnips, unions, carrots, parsnips, yams, &c. With these articles tfhey were dismissed. It was evident these people had not forgot the En- deavour being on tneir coast; for the first words^ [they spoke were, Mataou no te fiow fiotif^ (we are ' [afraid of the guns.) As they could be no strai:gers [to the affair which happened off Cape Kidnapper in* pe former voyage, experience had taught them ta^ [have some reg^r^i'd to these instruments of death. They now ^>tretched to the southward ; presently [after violent weather came on, and for two day^ [they were beating up against a hard gale. When [they arrived just in sight of port, they had the mor- jtification to be driven off from the land by a furious storm. Two favourable circumstances attended it, which gave them some consolation ; it was fair ever-hecvd, and they were not apprehensive of a lee- I shore. ' They condnued to combat tempesti' -*as weatherf I till the 30th, when they lost sight of the Adventure.* In the afternoon the gale abated. Captain Cook now regretted the loss of her ; for had she been [With bin:, he would have given up all thoughts of go- ing to Queen Charlotte s Sound to wood and water, and have sought for a place to get these articles^ falrther south, as the wind was now favburable for* ranging along the coast. But their separation made it necessary for him to repair to the Sound, that [being the place of rendezvous. As they appro<»xhed the land they saw smoke in [several places along the shore ; a sure sign that I the coast was inhabited. They continued to stand jtothe eastward all night, in hopes of meeting with the Adventure in the morning, the 31st of Octobfir- 236 CAPTAIN COOK'S Seemg nothing of her then, tl\ey wore and brought- to under the tore-sail and niizztin-stay-saiJ, the wind having increased to a perfect gtorm. At six o'clock in tile evening the wind quite ceased ; but this only proved a momentary repof.e ; for presently after, It began to blow wiUi redowbled tury, and ohli),'ed tliem to lie-to under the mizzen-staysail, in which situation they continued till midnight, when the Storm lessened ; and two hours after it fell calm. On the Ibt of November, at four o'clock in the morning, the :alm was succeeded by a breeze from the soutli' Soon after it increased to a fresh gale, at» tended with hazy, rainy weather, which gave u$ hopes that the N . W. winds were done ; for it must be observed, they were not wanting in taking imme- diate advantage of this favourable wind, by set- ting all their sails, and steering for Cape Campbell, which at noon bore north, distant three or four leagues* At two o'clock they passed the Cape, and entered the Streight with a brisk gale a-stern, and so likely to continue^ that they thought of nothin}; less than reaching their port the next morning. Once more they were deceived ; at six o'clock, be- ing off Cloudy Bay, the favourable wind was suc- ceeded by one from the north, which soon after veered to N- W. and increased to afresh gale. Next morning they stretched over for the shore of Ea- heinomauwe. At sim-rise the hori-son being ex- traordinary clear to leeward, they looked well out for the Adventure ; but as they saw nothing of her, judged s'ie had got into the Sound. As they ap- proached the above-mentioned shore, they discover- ed on the east side of Cape Teerawhitte, a new inlet they had never observed before, into which they en- tered and cast anchor. " Soon after they had anchored, several of the na- tives came off in their canoes ; two from one shore, and one from the other- It required but little ad- dress to get three or four of them on board. I'hese people were extravagantly fond of naUs above every other thing. To one man the Captain gave two cocks and two hens, which he received with so SECOND VOYAGE. 23T much indifference, as gave little hopes he would take proper care of them. They had not been at anchor here above two hours, before the wind veered to N. E- with which they weighed, and steered for the Soutid, w here they arrived just at dark, with most of their sails split' and anchored in eighteen fathoms water. The next morning, the 3d of November, the gale abated, and was succeeded by a few hours calm ; after that a breeze sprung up at N. W. with which they weighed and ran up into bhij) Cove, where they did not find the Adventure, as was expected. The first thing they did, after mooring the ship, was to unbend all the sails ; there not being one but what wanted repair. In the afternoon they gave or- ders for all the empty water casks to be landtd, in order to be repaired, cleaned, and filled ; tents to be set up for the sail-makers, coopers, and others, whose business made it necessary for them to be on shore. The next day began to caulk the ship's sides and decks, to overhaul her rigging, repair the sails, cut wood for fuel, and set up the smith's forge to repair the iron-woi-k ; all of which were absolutely neces- sary. On the 5th, the most part of their bread being in casks, they ordered some to be opened, when to their mortification, they found a good deal of it da- maged- To repair this loss in the best manner they could, all the casks were opened, the bread was picked, and the copper oven set up, to bake Such parcels of it, as, by that means, could be re- covered. Son» ; time this morning the natives stole, out of one of the tents, a bag ot clothesbelongirig to one of the seamen. As soon as the Captain was iniorm- ed of it, he went to them m an aidjoining cove, de- manded the clothes again, and after some time spent in friendly application, recovered them. With these people they saw the youngest of the two sows Captain Furneaux had put on shore in Cannibal Cove, when tliey were last here ; it was lame of one of its hind legs, otherwise in good case, and very tame- If they understood tfie&e people 228 CAPTAIN COOK'S right, the boar and other sow were also taken away, and separated, but not killed. They were likewise told, that the two goats they had put on shore uptl>e Sound, had been killed by that old rascal Goubiah. Thus all their endeavours to stock this countr>' with useful animals were likely to be frustrated, by the very people they meant to serve. I'he gardens had fared somewhat better. Every thing in them, ex- cept the potatoes, they had left entirely to natui^, who had acted her part so well, that they found most articles in a flourishing state ; a proof that the whiter must have been mild. The potatoes had most of them been dug up ; some, however still remained, and were growing, though, it is pro- bable, they will never be got out of the ground. Next morning the Captain sent over to the cove where the natives resided, to haul the seine ; and took with him a boar and a youn.^ sow, two cocks and two hens, they had broiigiu from the isles. These he gave to the !iatives, being ^ suaded they would take proper care of them, by t keep- ing Captain Funv aux's sow near live nionthi When they were purchasing fish of these people they shewed a great inclination to pick pockets, and to take away the fish with one hand, which they had just sold or bartered with the other. This evil one of the Chiefs undertook to remove, and with fury in his eyes nade a shew of keeping the people at a pro- per distance. The Captain says, ** 1 applauded his conduct, but at the same time kept so good a look out, as to detect him in picking my pocket of a handkerchief, which I suffered him to put in his bo- som before I seemed to know any thing of the mat- ter, and then told him what I had lost. He seemed quite ignorant and mnocent, till I took it from him ; and then he put it off with a laugh, acting his part with so much address, that it was hardly possible for me to he? aiie:ry with him ; so that we remained good friends, and he accompanied meonboardto^in- 1 er.** About that time, they were visited by several strangers in four or five canoes, who brought with them fish, and other articles, wliich they exchanp;ed SECOND VOYAGE. 239 for clotli, &c. These new-comers took up their ouarters in a cove near the tents ; but very early the next nnornmg moved off with six small water casks, and with tnem all the people they found here on their arrival. This precipitate retreat of these latt, they supposed, was owing to the theft the others had committed. They left behind them some of their dogs, and the boar tliat had been given them the day before, which the Captain now took back again, as he had not another. The casks were the Jeast loss felt by these people leaving th^m ; while they remained, they were generally well supplied with fish, at a small expence- In unpacking the bread, four thousand two hun- dred and 'ninety- two pounds they found totally unfit to eat, and about .three thousand pounds more could only be eaten by people in their situation. , The 15th beint> a pleasant mornirg, a pnrty went over to the East Kay, and c'.mbed one of the hills which over-looked the eastern part of the streiglit. In order to look for the Adventure. They had a fatiguing walk to little purpose ; for when they came to the summit, thev found the eastern horizon so foggy that they could not see above two miles. Mr. Forsi*»r, who was one of the party, profited by this excursion, in collecting some new plants. They now began to despair of seeing the Adventure any more, and was totally at a loss to conceive what was be- come of her. From this day to the 22d nothing remarkable happened, and they were occupied in getting every thing in readiness to put to sea, being resolved to "Wait no longer than the assigned time for the Ad- venture. Very early in the morning, they were visited by a number of the natives, in four or five canoes, very few of wliom they had seen before. They brought with them various articles (curiosities) which they exchanged for Otaheitean cloth, &c. At first, the exchanges were very much in the sailors favour, till an dd roan, who was no stranger, cam« anU a^alsted his countrjmen with his advice ; ^iO CAPTAIN COOK'S which, in a moment^ turned the trade above a thousand per cent* against them* Atter these peuple were gone, the Captain) took four hogs, (that is, three sows ^^nd one boar) two cocks and two hens, which lie landed in the bottom of the West Bay ; carrying them a little way into the woods, where he left thern with as much food as would serve theni ten or twelve days. This was done with i\ view of beeping them in the woods, lest they should come down to the shore in search of food, and be discovered by the natives. Ha r^ng now put the ship in a condition for soa, and to encounter tlie southern latitudes, the tents >vere struck, and every thing got on boar.d. The boatswain, with a party of men, being in the woods cutting broom, some of tJiem found a private hut of the natives^ in which was deposited most of the treasure they had received from there, as we!l as some other articles of their own. It is very probable some were set to watch this hut; as, soon »fter it was discovered, they came and took all away. But missing some things, they told some of the sailor " they had stolen them ; and, in the even- ing, cam.e and made their complaint to Captaiu Cook, piiching upon one ot the party as the ptrson ivho had committed the theft, tlaving ordered this n)a.n to Ije punished before them., they went away seemingly satisfied ; although they diti not i-ecover any of the things they had lost, nor could by any means find out what had become of them ; though iiothing was more certain than that something had been stolen by some of the party, if not by the very man the natives pitched upon. It was ever a max- im with the Captain to punish the least crimes any of his people committed against these uncivilized nations. Their robbing them with impunity ii, by *io means, a suihcient reason why the Europeans should treat these uninformed people in the same jiianner. Calm light airs from the north, all day, on the 23d, hindered them fix>in putting to sea, as intended. {a tiie ^ft^i'QQji^i sojna^ 0/ lU^ Qjfic; (s went oa sbop^ ai e al^o white, bu^ tipped with brown. These birds a*- fuUer of fea- thers than any they had hitherto seei ; such are has nature taken to clothe them, suitable to the cli- mate i'l which they live.. They also saw i very large seal, which kept playing about for son e time. ^ One of their people who had been at Greenland, called it a sea-horse ; but every one else who sa it, took it for what it really was. * In the morning of the 26th, the whole sea was in a manner covered with ice, 200 large islands and upwards, being seen within the compass of four or five miles- i On the 30th, several whales were seen playing about the ^hip, but very few birds ; islands ot ice JD plenty. .On tie SOth of Januan*, 1174, at four o'clock in 244 CAFT4IN COOK'S the morning, they perceived the clouds^ over the homon to the south, to be of an unusual snow-white brightness, which they knew denounced tlieir ap- proach to field ice. Soon after, it was seen froia the top-mast-head ; and at eight o'clock, they were close to its edge. It extended east and west, far beyon 1 the reach of their sight. In the situation they were in, just the southern halt of th** horizon was illuminated by the rays of light reflected from the ice, to a consi- derable height. Ninety-seven ice hills were distinct- ly seen within the field, besides those on the outside; many of them very large, and looking like a ridge of mountains, rising one above another till they were lost in the clouds. The outer or northern edge of this immense field was composed of loose or broken ice close packed together ; so that it was not possible for any thing to enter it. This was about a mile broad; "within which was solid ice in one continued compact body. It was rather low and flat (except the hills), but seemed to increase in height to the south ; in •which direction it extended beyond their sight. Such mountains of ice as these, were. Captain Cook believes, never seen in the Greenland seas; at least not that he ever heard or read of; so that he cannot draw a comparison between the ice here and there. The Captain says, " I will not say it was impossi- ble any where to get farther to the south ; but the attempting it would have been a dangerous and rash enterprise, and wh.it I relieve, no man in my situ- ation would have thought of* I, who had ambition not only to go farther than any one had been before, but as far as it was possible for man vo go, was not sorry at meeting with this interruption ; as it in some measure relieved us ; at least, shortened the dangers and hardsliips inseparable from the naviga- tion of the southern polar regions. Since therefore "we could not proceed one inch f rther to the south, no other reason need be assigi^ed for my tacking and standing back to the N.** The Captain now came to a resolution to proceed tathe north, and to sjj^nd th« ensuing^ winter with* Tf^ SECOND VOYA^ 245 in the tropic, if he met with no dmoymcnt before he came there, as he was now wel^atisfiecl no con- tinent was to be found in this ocean, but what must lie so far to the south as to be totally inaccessible on account of ice ; and that if cme should be found in the southern Atlantic Ocean, it would be .iecessary to have the whole summer before them to explore it. They no?/ steered north, inclining to the east, and in the evening they were overtaken by ^ a furicua storm at W- S. W. attended with snow and sleet. It came so suddenly upon them, that before they could take in their sails, two old top-sails, which they had bent to the yards, were blown to pieces, and the other sails much damaged. On the 20th of February, as they advanced to the north, they felt a most sensible change in the wea- ther. They steered W. S. W. which they thought the most probable direction to find land. On the 25th, Captain Cook was taken ill of the bilious cholic, which was so violent as to confine him to his bed ; so that the management of the ship was left to Mr. Cooper, the first officer, who conducted lier much to his satisfaction. It was several days be- fore the most dangerous symptoms of bis disorder were removed; during which timeMr.Patten,the sur- geon, was to him not only a skilful physician, but an affectionate nurse. When he began to recover, a favourite dog belonging to Mr. Forster, fell a :sacri- lice to his tender stomach. They had no other fresh inieat whatever on board ; and the Captain could eat I of this flesh, as well as broth made of it, when he icould taste nothing else. Thus he received nour- iishment and strength from food which would have [matle most people in Europe sick ; so true it is, that f necessity is governed by no law. I At eight o'clock in tjfie morning on the 11th of March, land was seen from the mast-head, bearing pvest, about twelve leagues distant. They now tack- ed and endeavoured to get into what appeared to be May, on the west side of the point, or S. E. side of the island : but before this could be accomplished, •# .Mr mm PTAIN COOK'S 246 night came upflKhem, and they stood on and off, under the land,^ll the next mormng. This is call- £aster Island, or Davis' Land. When getting round the point, and coming before ' a sandy beach, they found soundings thirty and forty fathoms, sandy ground, and about one mile from the shore. Here a canoe, conducted by two men, came off. They brought with them a bunch of plantains, which they sent into the ship by a rope, and then they returned ashore. This gave the Captain a good opinion of the Islanders, and inspired them with hopes of getting some refrer^hments, of which they ivere in great want. They continued to range along the coast, tiU they opened the northern point of the isle- While the ^^ship was plying in, a native came on board. The first thing he did was to measure the length of the ship, by fathoming her from the taffarel to the stern; and as he counted the fathoms, they observed that he called the numbers by the same names that they do at Otaheite ; nevertheless his language was ^nearly unintelligible to all of them. Having anchored too near the edge of the bank, a fresh breeze from the land, about three o'clock the next moming, drove them off it ; on which the Cap- tain went ashore accompanied by some of the gentle- men, to see what the island was likely to aftbrd, They landed at a sandy beach, where some huu^ dreds of the natives were assembled, and who were so impatient to see them, that many of them swam off to meet the boats. Not one of them had so much as a stick or a weapon of any sort in his hand. After distributing a few trinkets among them, they made signs for something to eat; on which they brought I down a few potatoes, plantains, and sugar-canes, and exchanged them for nails, looking-glasses, and! pieces of cloth. They presently discovered that they wete as ex- pert thieves, and as tricking in their exchanges, as| any people they had yet met with. It was. with somej difficulty they could keep the hats on their heads; ^ butjiardly possible to keep any thing iti their pock- SECOND VOYAGE. 2ftr ets, not even what themselves had sold ; for they would watch every opportunity to snatch it from them, so that they sometimes bought the same thing two-br three times over, and after all did not get it. Before they sailed from England, Captain Cook was informed that a Spanish ship had visited this isle in 1769. Some signs of it were seen among the natives ; one man had a pretty good broad brimmed European hat on ; another a jacket ; and another a red silk handkerchief. Near the place where they landed, were some tall statues, which shall be de- scribed hereafter. The country appeared white bar- ren and without wood ; there were nevertheless se- veral plantations of potatoes, plantains, and sugar- canes ; they also saw some fowls, and found a well of brackish water. The ship was brought to ait an- chor in thirty-two fathoms watex% about a mile from the nearest shor^. > The Captain was obliged to cc:;tent" himself with remaining at the landing-place among the natives, as he. was not yet quite recovered. They had a pretty brisk trade with them for potatoes, which they observed they dug out of an adjoining planta- tion ; but this traffic, which was very advantageous to them, was soon put a stop to, by the owner (as they supposed) of the plantation coming down, and driving all the people out of it. By this they con- cluded, that he had been robbed of his property, and that they "/ere not less scrupulous of stealing; from one another than from them, on whom they practised every little fraud they could think of, and generally with success ; for they had no sooner de- tected them in one, than they found out another* A party who had been sent out in the morning to view the country, now returned. They had not proceed- ed far, before a middle-aged man, punctured from head to foot, and his face painted with a sort o£ white pigment, appeared with a spear in his hand, and walked along-side of them, making signs to his countrymen to keep at a distance, and not to molest them. When he had pretty well effected this, he hoisted a piece of white ck)th on his spear, placed 243 CAPTAIN COOK'S himself in tlie front, and led the way, with this en* sign of peace. For the greatest part of the distance across, the ground had but a barren appearance. On tlve east side, near the sea, they naet wiih^ree platforms ot stone-work, or rather the ruins of them. On each had stood four of those large statues, but they were ail fallen down from two of them, and also one from the third ; all except one were broken by the fall, or in some measure defaced. Mr. Wales measured this one, and found it to be fif- teen feet in length, and six feet broad over the shoulders. Each statue had on its head a large cy- lindric stone of a red colour, wrought periectly round. The one they measured, which was not by fur the larj' came to the most fertile part of the island they saw, it being interspersed with plan- tations of potatoes, 6ugar-canes, and plantain-trees, and these not so much encumbered with stones as those they had seen before ; out they could find no water except what the natives twice or thrice brought theiTi, which, though brackish and stinking, was rendered acceptable, by the extremity of their thirst. They also pa?»sed some hut.s, the owners of which met them with roasted potatoes and sugar- canes, and placing themselves ahead of the pdrty (for they m^i relief t in a line in order to have the benefit of the path,) gave one to each man as he passed by. But at the very time some were reliev- jng the thirsty and hungry, there were others who endeavoured to steal from them the very things which had been given them. At last, to prevent worse consequences, they were obliged to fire a load of small shot at one who was so audacious as to snatch the bag which contained every thing tliey carried with them. The shot hit him on the back, on which he dropped the bag, ran a little way, ;iind then fell; but he afterwards got up and walkedi SECOND VOYAGE. and what became of him they knew not, nor whether he was much wounded. This aifair occasioned some delay, and dr*iw the natives together : they presejit- ly saw the man who had hitherto led the way, and one or two more, coming running towards them ; but instead of stopping when they came up, they continued to run round them, repeating m a kind manner, a few words, until they set forwards again* Then their old guide hoisted his flag, leading the way as before, and none ever attempted to steal froin them the whole day afterwards. Towards the eastern end of the island, they met with a well whose water was perfectly fresh, being considerably above the level of the sea ; but it was dirty, owing to the filthiness or cleanliness (call it; which you will) of the natives, who never go to drink V ithout washing themselves all over as soon v^s they have done ; and if ever so many of them are together^ the first leaps right into the middle of the whole, drinks, and washes himself without the least cere- mony ; after which another takes his place, and does the same. They observed that this side of the island was full of those gigantic statues before mentioned ; some placed in groups on platforms of masonry ; others single, fixed only in the earth, and that not deep ; and these latter are, in general, much larger than the others. Having measured one, which had fallen down, they found it very near twenty*sevei^ feet long, and upwards of eight feet over the breast or shouK ders ; and yet this appeared considerably short of the size of one they saw standing: its shade, a little past two o'clock, being sufficient to shelter all the party, consisting of near thirty persons, from the rays oT the sun. Mr. Wales, from whom Captain Cook had this information, is of opinion th^t there had been a quarry here whence these stones had formerly been dug ; and that it would have been no, difficult matter to roll them down the hill after they Were formed. - ^ They saw not an animal of any sort, and but very few l?ircl? ; por iiwlecd anything >vhi9h cani^^np X2 * . X t*" 250 CAPTAIN COOK'S ships that arc not in the utmost distress to touch at this island. . The Captain determined to leave the island the next morning, since nothing was to be obtained that could make it worth his while to stay longer. They had a calm till ten o'clock in the morning of the 16th, when a breeze sprung up at west» accompanied with heavy showers of rain, which lasted about an hour. The weather then clearing up, on the 16th of March, they got under sail, and stood to st a. The produce of this island is sweet potatoes, yams, tarra or eddy roo, plantains, and sugar-canes, all gretty good, the potatoes especially, which are the est of the kind they ever tasted. Gourds they have also, but 80 very few, that a cocoa-nut shell was the most valuable thing they could give tliem. They have a few tame fowl?, such as cocks and hens, &mall but well tasted. '1 hey have also rats, which, it seems, they eat ; for they saw a man with some dead ones in his hand ; and he seemed unwilling to part with them, giving them to understand they were for food. The coast seemed not to abound with fish ; at least they could catch none with hook and line, and it was but very little they $aw amongst the natives. The inhabitants of this island do not seem to ex- ceed six or seven hundred souls, and above two-thirds of those they saw were males. They either have but few females among them, or else many were re- strained fron> making their appearance. In general, the people of this isle are a slender race. They did not see a man that would measure six feet ; so far are they from being giants, as one of the authors of Roggewein's voyage asserts. They are brisk and active, have good features, and not disagreeable countenances, are friendly and hospi- table' to strangers, but as much addicted to pilfering as any of their neighbours. The women's clothing is a piece or two of quilted cloth about six feet by tour, or a mat One piece wrapped round their loins, and another over their ^tipiilders, make a complete dress* B\it the ^^^ SECOND VOYAGE. 251 for the most part, are in a manner naked, wearinjg nothing but a slip of cloth betwixt their legs, each end of which is fastened to a cord or belt they wear round the waist. Th<. Otah^tean cloth, or indeed any sort, was much valu* d by ihcm- " As harmless find friendly as these people seem to be, they are not without offensive weapons, such as short wooden clubs, and spears. I'heir houses ure low miserable huts, constnicted by setting sticks upright in the ground, at six or eight feet distance, then bending them towards each otUer, and lying them together, at the top, forming thereby a kind of »^ Very early next morning, the natives visited them again in much greater numbers than before; bringing with them bread-fruit, plantains, and one pig, all of which they exchanged for nails, he. But in this traffic they would frequently keep their goods and make no return, till at last the Captain •was obliged to fire a musket-ball over one man who had several times served them in this manner; after which they dealt more fairly, and soon after several of them came on board. As the Captain •was going in a boat to look for a more convenient place to moor Ihe ship in, he observed too many of the natives on board, and said to the officers,** You must look well after these people, or they will cer- tainly carry off something or other. '* He had hard- ly got into the boat, before he was told they had ^ $j:pIcQ pne of the j^n stanchious fcom the opposite ■ In • • •- . . . . , - , . .• • , ■ , . • . • • • , , SECOND VOYAGE. 2ifS ^ng-way, and were nvaking off with it. He order- ed them to fire over the canoe till he could get round ill the boat, but not to kill any one. But the natives made too much noise for hinn to be heard, and the unhappy thief was killed at the third shot. Two others in the same canoe leaped over-board, but got in again just as he came to them. The stanchion they had thrown over-board. One of them, a man grown, sat bailing the blxxl and water out of the canoe, in a kind of hysteric laugh. The other, a youth about fourteen or fifteen years of age, looked on the deceased with a serious and dejected counte- nance* I'hey had afterwards reason to believe he was his son. At this unhappy accident, all the natives retired with precipitation. The Captain followed them into the bay, and prevailed upon the people in one canoe to come along- side the boat, and receive some nails, and other things, which he gave them. One would have thought that the natives, by this tmoe, would have been so sensible of the effect of fire- arms, as not to have provoked them to fire Mp<)n them any more ; but the event proved ctherwise. For the boat had no sooner lett the kedge anchor, than two men in the canoe put off from the shore, took hold of the buoy -rope, and attempted to drag it ashore, little considering wliat was fast to it. Lest after discovering their mistake, they should take away the buoy, the Captain ordered a musket to lie fired at them. The ball fell short, and they took not the least notice of it; but a second having pas- sed over them, they let go the buoy, and made for the shore. This was the last shot they had occasion to fire at any of them, while they lay at this place. It probably had n-^ore effect than killing the man, by shewing them that they were not safe at any dis- tance ; nevertheless, they would very often be exercising their talent of thieving, which they thought proper to put qp with, as their stay was not likely to be long annongst them. On the 10th, early in the morning, some people ^rom more distant parts came in canoes along-side. tm CAPTAIN COOK'S -^* and sold them some pigs ; so that they had^now suffi- cient to give the crew a fresh meal. They were, in general, so small, that forty or fifty were hardly sufficient for this purpose. After dinner, the Cap- tain went on shore, and collected eighteen pigs. Next morning he went down to the same place ^vhere he had been the preceding evening ; but in- stead of getting pigs, as he expected, found the scene quite chs^n^td. The nails, and other things they were mad alter but the evening before, they now despised ; and instead of them wanted they did not know vhat ; so that he was obliged to return "With three or four l^tt)** pigs» which cost more than 11 dozen did the day before. The reason was, several ^«f the young gentlemen having landed the preced- ing day, had given away in exchange various articles iwhich the people had not seen befoi'e, and which :5^ook with them more than nails or more useful iron tools. But what ruined their market the most, was eue of them giving for a pig a very large quantity of red feather? he had got at Amsterdam* Trade tbeing thus stopped, the Captain prepared to leave this place, and go where their wants might be ef- fectually relieved ; for after having been nineteen creeks at sea, and living ail the time on salt diet, they could not but want some refreshm^jnts ; yet they had not one sick man on board, owing to the many antiscorbutic articles they had, and to the great attention of the surgeon, who was remarkably careful to apply them in tim^. Apr?l the 11th, at three o'clock in the afternoon, they weighed. They had now but httie wino, and that very variable, wicli showers of rain. The Marquesas, which they had just left, ^tere , discovered by Mendana, a Spanirird, and from him ^obtained the general name they now bear. They are five in number, viz. La Ma'gdalena, St. Pedro, La Dominica, Santa Christina, and Hood's Island, '•which is the northernmost; La Dominica is the larg- est, it hath an unequal breadth, and is about 15 «r 16 leagues in circuit. It is full of rugged hills, ris- ing in ridges directly from the sea ; these ridges are / . SECOND VOYAGE. 355 disjoined by deep valleys, %vhich are clothed with wood, as are the sides of some of the hiils ; tiie aspect is, however, barren. The inhabitants of these islands, collectively, are without exception the finest race of people in thia sea. For fine shape and regular features, they per- haps surpass all other nations- Nevertheless, the affinity of their languag« to that spoke in Otaheite and the Society isles, shew that they are of the same nation. Oedidee could converse with them tolerably well ; and it was easy to see that their language was nearly the same. Their clothing is the same as at Otaheite, and made of the same materials ; but they have it not in sucl plenty, nor is it so good. The men, for the mo8t part, have nothing to cover their nakedness^^t except the Marra^ as it is called at Otaheite ; which' is a slip of cloth passed round the waist and betwixt ! the legs. This simple dress is quite sufficient fori the climate, and answers every purpose modesty; requires. The dress of the women is a piece o£. cloth wrapped round the loins like a petticoat*; which reaches down below the middle of the leg, and a loose mantle over their shoulders. ^ In the article of eating, these people are, by rtj means, so cleanly as the Otaheiteans. They are likewise dirty in their cookery. Pork and fowls are dressed in an oven of hot stones, as at Otaheite ; but^ fruits and roots they roast on the fire, and after tak-^^ ing off the rind or skin, put them into a platter ori trough with water, out of which both men and hogS' eat at the same time. The Captain says, he isaw ^ them make a batter of fruit and roots, diluted with^ water in a vessel that was loaded with dirt, and out ^ of which the hogs had been but that moment eating, without giving it the least washing, or even wash-*;, ing their hands, which were equally dirty; and when he expressed disUke was lauglied at. -, Hogs are the only quadruj^eds they saw ; and; cocks and hens the only tame fowls. However, the woods seemed to abound with small birds of a very ^eaatiful plumage, and fine notes ; but th^ fear of* Si56 CAPTyVIN COOK'S . alarming the natives, hindered them from* shooting so many of. them as might otherwise have been done. With a fine easterly wind they steered S. W- S. W. by W. and W. by S. till the irth, at ten o'clock in the morning, when land was seen bearing VV.half K. which upon a nearer approach, they found to be a string of low islots, connected together by a reef of coral rocks. As they steered along the coast, the natives ap- peared in several places, armed with long spears and clubs, and some were got together on oijc side of the creek. The Captain sent two boats well armed ashore, under the command of Lieutenant Cooper, with a view of having some intercourse "With them, and to give Mr. Forster an opportunity of collecting something in his way. They saw them land without the least opposition* Some little time after* observing 40 or^50 natives, all armed, coming towards the boats, they stood close in shore, in order to be ready to support their people in case of au at- tack. But nothing ot this kind happened ; and soon 9itev the boats returned aboard, when Mr. Cooper ^informed the Captain that, on his landing, only a fiew of the natives met him on the beach, but there •were many in the skirts of the woods, with spears in their hands. The presents he made them were areceivcd with great coolness, which plainly shewed they w^re unwelcome visitors. They brought aboard ftve dogs, which seemed to be in plenty there. They saw no fruit bat cocoa-nuts, of which they j;ot by exchanges, two dozen- One of the sailors j;ot a dog for a single plantain, which led them to conjecture they had none of this fruit. This island, which is called by the inhabitant* Tiookea, was discovered and visited by Commodore Byron. It has someth'uig of au oval shape, and is a^out ten leagiies in circuit. On the 18th, at day-break, after having spent the night making short boards, they wore down to ano- tbi:r isle they had in sight to the westward, which tj^ty reached by eight o'ckck, and ranged the S- £' s »•: SECOND VOYAGE* :^Af^ h bitant* nodore and is ent the to ano- which ■ueSE' 25? ,i side at one mile from shore. These must be tho % same islands to which Commodore byron gave the " name of George's Islands. It cannot be determined with any degree of ccr* uUty whether this group of isles be any of tholse dis-^ covered by the Dutch navigators, or no ; this part of the ocean is so strewed with those low isles, that a navigator cannot proceed with too much caution. They made the high land of Otaheite on the 21st {of April, and at eight o'clock the next morning an*^ ichored in Matavai Bay in seven fathoms water* This was no sooner known to the natives than many* of them made them a visits and expressed not a lit« [tie joy at seeing them again^ On the 24th, Otoo the King, and several other [Chiefs, with a train of attendants, paid them a v;sit« and brought them as presents ten or a dozen large hogs, besides fruits^ which mad- them exceedingly welcome. The C aptain was advertised of the King's coming, and looked upon it as a good omen. Know-* lini; how much it was bis interest to make this man lis friend, he met him at the tents, and Conducted Ihim and his friends on board, where they stayed to Idinner, after which they were dismissed with suita* [bie presents, and highly pleased with the reception they had met with. They now found these people were building a [great number of large canoes, and houses of every Litid ; people living in spacious habitations, vvhohad [not a place to shelter themselves in eight months ")efore ; several large hogs about every house ; and 5 very other sii^u of a rising state. Judging irom these favourable circumstances that they sh> ;Id not mend themselves by removing to ^nether island, the* Captain resolved to make a ion>;er stay, a ad begin with the repairs of the ship iQd stores, 8cc. x: In the ..lorning of the SOtii, the Captain went Wn to Oparree, accompanied by some of the offi- -fTs, and gentlemen, to pay Otoo a visit As they ^rew near, they observed a number of large canoes niotlon ; but were surprised, when they arrived, VOL. I. Y r ^■ %, 2^$ CAPTAIN COOK'^ •' ■••s to see upwards gf three hundred ranged inordef for some distance, along the shore, all completely equipped and manned, besides a vast number of armed men upon the shore. So unexpected an armament collected together in their neighbourhoo^J, in the space of one night, gave rise to various con- jectures. The vessels of war consisted of 160 large double canoes, very well equipped, manned, and aymed. The Chiefs, and all those on the fighting stages^ •were dressed in their war habits ; tnat is, in vast quantity of cloth, turbans, breast-plates, and hel- mets* Some of the latter were of such a length as greatly to encumber the wearer. Indeed, their whole dress seemed to be ill calculated for the day of battle, and tobedcsigi.ed inorefor shew than use- Be this as it may, it certainly added grandeur to the prospect, as they were so complaisant as to shew themselves to the best advantage. The vessels wen; decorated with flags, streamers, &c. so that the whole made a g^vand and noble appearance, such as they had never seen before in this sea, and what no one would have expected- Their instruments of •war were clubs, spears, and stones- The vessels •were ranged close along-side of each other, with their heads ashore and their stern to the sea ; the Admiral's vessel being nearly in the Centre. Be- sides the vessels of war, there were an hundred and seventy sail of smaller double canoesv all with a Jittle house upon them, and rigged with a mastaiid eail, which the war canoes had not- These were designed for transports, victuallers, &g. for in ttie war canoes was no sort of provisions whatever. I" these three hundred and Mvty vessels there were no less than seven thousand seven hundred an^ sixty menV; Tupia informed therti, when they were first here that the whole island raised only between six aw seven thousand men ; but they now saw two districts only raise that number ; so that he must have taken his account from .some old establishment ; else he oiaJy meant Tatatom, that is, warriors, ormentrami SECOND VOYAGE. ■^ 259 t^hom their infancy to arms, and did not include the rowers, and those necessary to nSvigate the other vessels. / While they were viewing this fleet. Tee came and whispered them in the ear, that Otoo was c;oRe ' to Matavai, advising them to return thither. I'hey accordingly proceeded for the ship. They had not been long gone from Oparree, be- fore the whole fleet was in motion, to the westward, whence it came. When they got to Matavai, they were told that this fleet was part of the arm anient intended to go against Eimea, whose Chief had thrown off the yoke of Otaheite, and assumed an in- dependency. They were likewise informed that Otoo neither was nor had been at Matavai ; so that they were still at ?i loss to know why he fled from Oparree. This occasioned another tfip thither in the afternoon, where they found him, and now un- derstood that the reason of his not seeing them iq , the morning was, that some of his people having stolen a quantity of their clothes, which were on shore washing, he was afraid tht Captain should de- mand restitution. He repeatedly asked him if he was not angry ; and when he assured him that he was not, and that they might keep what they had got, he was satisfied. In the morning of the 27th of April, the Captain received a present from Towha, consisting of two large hogs and some fruit, sent by two of his ser- vants, who had orders not to receive anything in return ; nor would they when oft'ered them. Soon after, he went down to Oparree in his boat, where, having found both this Chief and the King, after a«r. short stay, he brought them both on board to dinner, together with Tarevatoo, the King's younger bro- ther, and Tee. As soon as they drew near the ship,-", the Admiral, who had never seen one before, began to express much surprise at so new a sight. He was conducted all over the ship, every part of which he viewed with great attention- On this occasion Otoo ^vas the principal shew-man ; for, '>y this time, he m^ well acquainted with the different parts of the J^ > 1 / 260 CAPTAIN COOK'S »^ * ship. After dinner Towha put a hog on board, and retired, without the Captain's knowing any thing ot' the matter, or having made hin. any return, either for this, or the present he had in the morning. Soon after, the King and hi^ attendaiits went away also. Both these Chiefs, when on board, solicited him to :|ssist tliem against Tiarabou, but to their solicita* tions he gave no encouragement. On the 28th one of the natives attempting to steal a water-cask from the watering-place, he was caught in the act, sent on board, and put in irons ; in which situation Otoo add the other Chiefs saw him* Hav- ing made known his crime to them, Otoo begged he might be set at liberty. This the Captain refused, telling him, that since he punished his people, ^hen they committed the least ofTence against the natives, it was but just this man should be punished also ; anij as he knew he would lot do it, ne was resolved to do it himself. Accordingly, he ordered the man to { be carried on shore to the tents, and having follow- ed, Aith Otoo, Towha, and others, he ordered the guard out, under arms, and the man to be tied up to I a post. Otoo, his sister, and some others, begged hard for him ; Towha said not one word, but was ver\ attentive to every thing going forward. . Tbe| Captain expostulated with Otoo on the conduct of this man, and of his people in general ; telling him, that neither he, nor any of his people, took anything from them, without first paying for it ; enumt rating the articles they gave in exchange for such audsuch things, and urging that it was wrong in them to steal j from those who were their friends. He moreover j told him, that the punishing this man would be the| means of saving the hves of others of his people, by deterring them from committing crimes ot this I nature. With these and other arguments, which he pretty well understood, he seemed satisfied, am only desired the man might not be Matiercu M killed.) The Captain then ordered the crowd, which was verv great, to be kept at a proper distance, and in the presence of them all, ordered the felU ^ t^o 4ozen of lashes with a cat-pf-ninC'^taiK wbir^h W s^'T? W 51 ■ **!* 4'^ > SECOND VOYAGE. "261 bore with great firmness, and was theri set at liber- ty. After this the natives were gou.g away; but Towha stepped forth, called them back, and ha- rangutd them for near half an hour- His speech consisted of short sentences, which were not well understood; but from what they could gather, he recapitulated part of what he had said to Otoo, named several advantages they had received fronx thg Captain, condemned their presfint conduct, and recommended a different one for the future. The gracefulness of his action, and the attention with which he was heard, bespoke him a great orator. Otoo said n6t one word. As soon as Towha had ended his speech, the Captain oixlered the marines logo through their exercise, and to load and fireirt volleys with ball ; and as they were very quick in their manoeuvres, it is easier lo conceive than to de- scribe the amazement the natives were under the whole time, especially those who had not^^^leen any* thing of the kind before. : „'■ ' This being over> the Chiefs took le^i?€f:^nd retir- ed witli all their attendants, scarcely viv^o pleased than frightened at what they had seen. -^ • They had a very great supply of provisions, sent and brought by different Chiets, on the Jst of May ; and the next day received a present from Towha, sent by his servants, consisting of a hog, and a boat load of various sorts of fruits and roots. The like present they also had from Otoo, brought by Tare* vatoo, who stayed to dinner^ On going ashore in the morning of the Tth* they found Otoo at the tents, and took the opportunity to ask his leave to cut down some trees for fuel, which he readily granted. The Captain told him he should cut down no trees that borq any fruit. He ^vas pleased with n>.is declaration, and told it aloud several times to the people about them. During the night, between the 7th and 8th, some time in the middle watch, all their friendly conncx^ ionsreceived an interruption, through the negligence of one of the sentinels on shore. He having either slept or quit^qi his post, gave one of the nativtjs ai^ * t* %' ^#» .*f S63 CAPTAIN COOK'S- H % ^ ■opportunity to carry off his musket. The first ntw% the Captain heard of it was from Tee, whom Otco had sent ou board for that purpose, and u> dehire that he would go to him, for that he was fnatooutd. They were not well enough ucquainted with their I language to understand all Tec s 8tory ; but the/ understood enough to know that something had hap-' pened which had alarmed the king. In ordtr, therefore, to be fully informed, the Captain went ai-^hore v\ith Tee and Tarevatoo, wbc had slept tn board all night. As soon as they landed, he was in- formed of the whole by the serjeaot who command* cd the party. The natives were all alarmed, and the niObt of them fiedt 1 ee and the Captain went to look fqr Otoo ; and as they advanced, he endea- voured to allay the fears of the people, but at the same time insisted on the musket oeing restored, After travelling some distance into the co -ntry, in- quiring of every one they .^aw for Otoo, Tee stopped all at once, and advised the Captain to return, say- ing, that Otoo was gone to the mountains, and he would proceed and tell him that he (the Captain) was still his friend. Tee also promised that he would use his endeavours to recover the musket, The Captain returned to the ship, and soon aftef }ie observed six large canoes coming round Point Venus. Some people whom he had sent out to waich the conduct of the neighbouring inhabitantstt infor«>»ed him, they were laden with baggage, fruit, hogs, He There being room for suspecting that some person belonging to these canoes had commit- ted the theft, Y\e came to a resolution to intercept them 'p and having put off in a boat fpr that purpose, gave orders f^r another to follow. One of the ca* noes, which was some distancte ahe^d of the rest, came directly for the shipt He went along-side this, and found ^wo or three women in her whom he ktiew. They told him they were going on board the ship vvith something for him; and en inquiring pf them for Otoo, was told he was then at the tents, pleased with this news, he contradicted the orders t to \^een a cannon fired before, the sight gave him as much pain as pleasure. In the evening, they en- tertained him with fireworks, which gave him great satislaction. Thus ended all their dinerences* As the most essential repairs of the ship were nearly finished, it was resolved to leave Otaheite in a few days; the Captain accordingly ordered eveigf thing to be got off from the shore, that the natives might see they were about to depart. On the 12th, old Oberea, the woman who, when the Dolphin was here in 1767, was thought to be Queen of the island, and whom they had not seen smce 1769, paid them a visit, and brought a present of hogs and fruit. Soon after came Otoo with great retinue, and a large quantity of provisions- The Captain w^s pretty liberalin his returos, thinking it «p SECOND VOYAGE. " <^ ^H^ might be the last time he should see these good peo* pie, who had so liberally relieved their wants ; and, in the evening, entertained them with fireworks. 0(1 the 14th they saw a number of war canoes coining round the point of Oparree* Being desirous of having a nearer view of them, accompanied by many officers and gentlemen, they hastened down to Oparree, which they reached before all the ca- noes wei e landed, and had an opportunity of seeing iu what manner they approached the shore. When they got before the place where they intended to land, they formed themselves into divisions, consist- ing^ of three or four, or more, lashed square and close along-side of each other ; and then each division, one after the other, paddled in for the shore with all their might, and conducted in so judicious a man* ner, that they formed, and closed a line, along the shore, to an inch. The rowers were encouraged to exert their strength by their leaders on the stages, and directed by a man who stood with a wand in his hand in the fore-part of the middlemost vessel. This marj, by words and actions, directed the paddlers when all should jjaddle, when either the one side op the other should cease, &c. for the steering paddles alone were not sufficient to direct them. All these motions were observed with such quickness as clear- ly shewed them to be expert in their business. Otoo» who was present, caused some of their troops to go through their exercise on shore. Two parties first began with clubs, but this was over almost as soon as begun ; so that they had no time to make obser- vations. They then went to single combat, and ex- hibited the various methods of fighting with great alertness ; parrying off the blows and pushes, which each combatant aimed at the other, with great dex- terity. Their arms were clubs and spears ; the latter they also use as darts. In fighting with the club, all blows intended to be given the legs were evaded by leaping over it; and those in- tended for the head, by couching a little, and leap- ing on one side ; thus th^ blow would fall to tUo ground* ?5 y. .,«. *•• 1206 CAPTAIN COOK'S I ' Their treatment at this isle was such as had in- duced one of the guniirr's mates to form a plan to remain at it. He knew he could not execute it with 9|iccess while he lay in the bay, therefore he took the opportunity, as soon as they were out, the boats in, and sails set, to slip overboard, being a good swimmer. But he was discovered before he got clear of the ship ; and they presently hoisted a boat out, and took him up. A canoe was observc.l, about half way between the boat and the shore, seemingly coming after them. She was intended to take him up ; but as soon as Uie people in her saw the boat, they kept at a distance. This was a pre-concerted plan between the man and them, which Otoo was acquainted with, and had encouraged. He was an Irishman by birth, and had sailed in the Dutch ser- vice. The Captain picked him up at Batavia on his return fn^m his former voyage* and he had been with him ever since. He never learnt that he had either friends or connexions, to confine him to any particular part of the world. All nations were alike to him.' Where then could such a man be more hap- py than at one of these isles ? where, in one of the finest climates in the world, he could enjoy not only the necessaries, but the luxuries of life, in ease and plenty. Tne two Croats which Captain Furneaux gave to Otoo when they were last here, seemed to prowuse fair for answering the end for which they were put on shore. The ewe soon after had two female kids, which were now so far grown as to be nearly ready to propagate ; and the old ewe was again with kid. The people seemed to be very fond of them, and, they to like their situation as well ; for they vv ere in excellent condition. From this circumstance it may be hoped that, in a few years, they will have some to spare to their neighbours ; and, by that means, they may in time spread over all the isles in this ocean. The sU^ep which they left, died soon after, excepting one, which they understood was yet alive They have also furnished them, with a stock of cats; lijoless than twenty having been given away at Uiis ible^ '^' •^ SECOND VOYAGE. 267 At one o^clock in the afternoon on the 15th of May, they anchored in llie north entrance of O'Wharre Harbour, in the island of Huaheine ; hoisted out the boasts, warped into a proper birth, and moored. Oree, the Chief, brought a hog and other articles to the Captain, who in return invited him and his friends to dinner. Next day Mn Forster and his parly being out in the country botanizing, his ser- vant, a feeble man, was beset by five or six fellows, who would have stripped him, if, that moment, one of the party had not come to his assistance ; after which they made oft* with a hatchet they had got from him. On the l^th the Captain went ashore to look for the Chief, in order to complain of the outrai^e com- mitted as above ; but he was not in the neighbour- hood. Being ashore in the afternoon, a person came and told him Oree wanted to see him. He went with the man, and was conducted to a large house, where thcChiet^ and several other persons of note, were assembled in council, as well as he could understand. After he was seated, the Chief began to assure him, that neither he, nor any one present (which were the principal chiefs in the neighbourhood) had any hand in it ; and desired him to kill with the f/.ins all those who had. The Captain knew fair means would never make them deliver them up; and he had no intention to try others. So the affair dropt, and the council broke up. In the evenings some of the gentlemen went to a dramatic entertainment. The piece represented a girl as running away with them from Otah^lte ; which was in some degree true ; as a youn.j; wouian had taken a passage with them down toUlietea, and happened now to be present at the representation of her own adventures ; which had such an efftct upon her, that it was with great difficulty the gentlemen could prevail upon h^r to see the play out, or to re- frain from tears while it was actinir. Some of the petty officers who had leave to go into the country for their amusement, took two of the natives with them to be their guides, and t^ carry ■V f ^6d CAPTAIN COOK'S "T^^^f^^W^ T their ba^, containing nails, hatchets, &:c. the car- i-ent cash they traded with here ; which the tellows made off with in the following artfj»l manner The gentleme»* had with them two muskets for shooting birds- After a shower of rain, their guides pointed out some for them to shoot. One of the muskets having missed fire several times, and the other hav- ing gone off, the instant the fellows saw themselves , secure from both, they ran away, leaving the gentle- men gazing after them with so much surprise, that no one had presence of mind to pursue them. The 23d, wind easterly, as it had been ever since they left Otaheite. Early in the morning they un- moored, and at eight weighed and put to sea. Oree, the Chief, was the last man who went 6ut of the ship. At parting, the Captain told him they should see each other no more, at which he wept and said, •* Let your sons c :)me, we will treat them well." Oree is a good man in the utmost sense of the word; but many of the people are far from being of that dis- position, and seem to take advantage of his old age. During their stay here they got bread-tmit, and cocoa-nuts in abundance, hut not hogs enough ; and yet it did not appear that they were scarce in the isle. It must, however, be allowed, that th-^ num- ber they took away, when last here, must have thin- ned them greatly, and, at the same time, stocked the lole with our articles. Besides,they now wanted a pro- per asortment of trade, what they had being nearly exhausted, and the few remaining red feathers being here but of little value, when compared to the es- timation they atand in at Otaheite. This obliged the Captain to set the smiths to work to make different sorts of i:on to«jls, nails, &c. in order to enable them to procure refreshments at the other isles, and to siup- port their ci'cdit and influence among the natives. As soon as thty were clear off the harbour, they made sail, afid stood over for the south end of Ulie- tea, where they dropt anchor the next day. O^ tlie 25th a party went ashore to pay the Chief a visit, and make the customary prese^it. At thtir first eatering his house, they were met by four or '^ SECOND VOYAGE. 269 £ve old women, weeping and lamenting, as it were/ * most bitterly, and at the same time cutting their heads with instruments made of sharks' teeth, till the blood ran plentifuily down their faces and on thfir shoulders. What was still worse, they were obliged to submit to the embraces of these old hags, and by that means were all besmeared with blood. This ceremony (for it was merely such) being over, they went out, washed themselves, and immediate- ly after appeared as cheerful as any of the company, Tlie Captain made his presents, and after some lit- tle stay, returned on board. „: On the 27th they were enter : .ined with aplay, csiU tfiMididij Harramij, whichsignifiesthe C/tHdia com- ing> — It concluded witli the representation of a wo- man in labour, acted by a set ot great brawny fel- lows, one of whom at last brought forth a strapping boy, about six feet high, who ran about the stage, dragging after lum a large wisp of straw, which , hung by -4 string frjm his middle- They had an op- portunity of seeing this acted another time, when ^ it was observed, that the moment they had got hold ♦ I of the fellow who represented the child, they ftat- |tciied or pressed his nose. From this they judged, [that they do so by their children when born, which x iay be the reason why all in general have flat noses. ''" [This part of the play, from its newness, and the lu- dicrous manner in which it was performed, gave ^* them, the first time they saw it, some entertainment, and caused a loud laugh, which might be the rea- ^ Isoii why they acted it so often afterwards. But this, jlike all their other pieces, could entertain them no niore than once Sunday the 29th, they found several articles had [been stolen out of the boats which lay near the ship; id the Chief not only knew they were stolen, but /whom, and where they were; and he went im- mediately with the I aptain in his boat in pursuit of [liem. After proceeding a good way along shore^ 1 fre Chief ordv-rcd them to land near some houses, ^vhere they did not wait long before all the articles ^ere brought Xc thcii, except the pinnace's iron til- ' yoL, I. z > ^^ ! fc' 14.-.' P •.^^;|! I'. I a "it '■'*!■ a b /■ .».,■ M ;;i ':M sro CAPTAIN COOICS ler, which he was told was still farther off; tliesn were never recovered. On the 30th, one of the Chiefs made the Captain a present ot two pigs ; he invited the donor to din- ner, and ordered one of the pigs to be killed and dressed, and attended himself to the first part of the operation, which was as follows: They strangled the hog, which was done by three men ; the hog being placed on his back, two of them laid a pretty strong stick across his throat, and pressed with all their ■weight on each end ; the third man held his hind legs, kept him on his back, and plugged up his fun- dament with grass, to prevent any air from passing or repassing that way. In this manner thty held him tor about ten minutes before he was quite dead. The hog weighed about fifty pounds. It was baked in their usual ma!mer. Some parts about the ribs were thought overdone ; but the more fleshy parts were exctllent ; and the skin, which by tlie Euro- pean way of dressing can hardly be eaten, had, by this method, an excellent fiavour. I'he people knowing that they should sail soon, begaii on the 31s*: to bring on board fruit more than wsual. Amongst those who came was a young inan who measured six feet four inches and six-tenths; and his sister, younger than him, measured five feet< ten inches and an half. A 'orisk trade for hogs and tru't continued till the 3d of June. The Captain fixed on the nt-xt day, June 4, for lulling, when Oreo, the Chief, and his whole fami- ly, came on board, to take their last farewell, ac- companied by Oo-oo-rou, the Earee de/iu andBcba, the Earee of Otaha, and several of their friends. I . None came empty ; but Oo-oo-rou brought a pretty large present, this being his first and only visit. The Captain distributed am»>;»j^t them almost everf thing he had left. The ver\' hospitable manner in which he harl ever been received by these people, 'had endeared them to him, and pven them a just title to every thing in his power to grant. Oreo pressed him to return ; when the Captain d'*crmed making anv promtses on t'^n" hf=»ftfl, he a*ikH •arther off; thes?; nadc the Captain I the donor to d'm- * to be killed and he first part of the rhey strangled the en ; the hog being aid a pretty rArong 3bed with all their nan held his hind lugged up his fun- ly "air from passing manner they held he was quite dead. nds. It was baked arts about the ribs more fleshy parts which by the Euro- J be eaten, had, by r. try should sail soon, ard, fruit more than e was a young man les and six -tenths; measured five feet< : trade for hogs and xr. day, June 4, for nd his whole fami- r last farewell ac- wee dehu andBoba, al of their friends. •oubrouf;hta.pretty| and onlv visit. Ihcj :heTn almost eveitl ispitable manner la ed by these perple, d ^ivpu tiiem a i>^^ -o errant. sv hen the CaptaitJ] 4 SECOND VOYAGE- 271 ed tke name of his Moral Cbuvying-place.) As strange a question as this was, he hesitated not a moment to tell him Stepney ; the parish in which he lived •arhen in London. He was requested to repeat it se- veral times over till they could pronounce it ; then. Stepney Marai no Toote was echoed through an hundred mouths at once. What greater proof could they U^ve of these people esteeming them as friends, than their wishing to reme^iber them even beyond the period of their lives ? They had been repeated- ly told that they should see them no more ; they thon wanted to know where they were to mingle Vith their parent dust. , ; i As they could not promise, or even suppose that more English ships 'vyould be sent to those isles, their faithful companion Oedidee chose to remain in liis native country. But he left the ship with a re- gret fully demonstrative of the esteem he had for them. Indeed, he would have been a better speci- men of the nation, in every respect, than Omai. Jost as Oedidee was going out of the ship, he asked the Captain to Tatou some Paroii for him, in order to shew the commanders of other ships which might stop here- He complied with his request, gave him a certificate of the time he had been with them, and recoranaended him to the notice of ihose who might touch at the island after them. They did not get clear of their friends till eleven [O'clock, whe^i they weighed, and put to sea ; but Oedidee did not leave them till they were almost out of the harbour. He stayed, in order to fire some guns ; for it being his Majesty's birth-day, they fired I the salute at going away. Nature is exceedmgly kind to these islands. The natives, copying the bounty of Nature, are uqually liberal; contributing plentifully and cheerfully to the iWa':tsof naviguors. During their stay they had [plenty of pork and variety of fruit. All these arti- [Cles were got in exchange for axes, hatchets, nails, [chisels, clc^h, red feathers, beads, knives, scissors, I looking-glasses, Sec articles which willesrer be valua- ble here- Sliirts are a very capital article in mak- ';^; ■m 1,©' II ft I' 'M .»•• 272 CAPTAIN COOK'S ing presents ; especially with those who have aLy connexion with the fair sex- A shirt here is full as necessary as a piece of gold in England. The ladies at Otaheite» after ihey had pretty well stripped their lovers of shirts, found a method of clothing them- selves with their own cloth. It was their custom to go on shore every morning, and to return on board in the evening, generally clad in rags. This furnish- ed a pretence to importune the lover for better clothes ; and when he had no more of his own, he "was to dress them in new cloth of the country, which they always left ashore ; and appearing agaip in rags, they must ai^ain be clothed. So that the same suit might pass through twenty different hands, and be as often sold, bougnt, and given away. On the 6th, being the day after leaving Ulictea, they saw Howe Island, discovered by Captain Wal* lis^ The inhabitants of Ulietra speak of an unin. habited island, about this situation, called by them 74opeha, to wliich they go at certain seasons for turtle ; perhaps this may be the same. On the 16th, just after sun-rise, land was seen from the top-mast head, bearing N* N. E. they im« mediately altered the course, and steering for it, found it to be another island, composed of five or six •woody islots, connected together by sand-banks and breakers, inclosing a lake, into which they could setj no entrance. The Captain looked up to it as a new discovt^ry, and named it Palmer»ton Island, in honour of Lord Palmerston, one of the Lords of the /Vdmiralty. At four o'clock in the afternoon they left this isle, and resumed their course to the W. by S. with a fine steady p:ale easterly. On the 20th they saw land; and as they ''" 3^' nearer, found it to be an island of considerabk ex- tent. Perceiving some people on the shore, and landing seeming to be easy, they bwught-to, and hoisted out two boats, with which they put off to the land, accompanied by some of the officers and gentlemen. Friendij signs were made to thcoJt which tlicy ^f-'«>«'««>'VV t'^ ■ KSViS* ^'jn »'* *->-,rTf'-"^'T=; ^'l(^(WWMfff.'-T SECOND VOYAGE. 273 <" H answered by menaces. All endeavours to bring them to a parley were to no purpose ; for they came with the ferocity of wild boars, and threw their darts. Two or three muskets, discharged in the air, did not hinder one of them from advancing still farther, and throwing another dart, or rather a spear, which passed close over the Captain's shoulder. His courage would have cost him his life, had not the Captain's musket missed fire ; for he was not five paces from him when he threw his spear, and had resolved to shoot him to save him- self. He was glad afterwards that it happened as it did. --'^'"r^ ''■^- 1 The conduct and aspect of these islanHers, oc-. casioned the Captain's naming it Savages' Island. They seemed to be stout well made men, were naked, except round the waists, and some of them^ had their faces, breasts, and thighs painted black.;/ On the 16th of June they arrived off the coast of Ilotterdam- Before they had well got to an anchor, the natives came off from all parts in canoes, bring- ing with them yams and shaddocks, which they exchanged for small nails and old i ags. One man taking a vast liking to their lea.d and line, got hold of it, and, in spite ot all the threats they could make use of, cut the line with a stone ; but a discharge of «mall shot made him return it. Early^'in the morn- ing, the Captain went on shore, with Mr. Gilbert, to look for fresh water, and were received with grr;at courtesy by the nativ es. After they had dis- tributed some presents amongst thviin, he asked for water, and was conducted to a pond of it that was brackish, about three-fourths of a mile from the landing place ; which he supposed to be the same that Taxman watered at. In the mean time, the people in the boat had laden her with fruit and roots, which the natives had brought down, and ex- changed fui' nails and beads. In the afternoon some of the officers landed, where they found the sur- geon, who had been robbed of his gun, by a fellow who had ran off with it, and they would have btrip- ped him, as he imagined, had he not presented a Z 2 f -ri 'i n % --rfr- ]&r4^ CAPTAIN COOK'S tooth-pick case, wliich they, no donbt, thought was a little gun. As soon as the Captain heard of this, he went to the place where the robbery w-as com* xnitted, but took no steps to recover it ; in this he acknowledges he was wrong- The easy manner of obtaining this gun, which they no doubt thought se* cure in their possession, encouraged them to pro* ceed in these tricks, j? ^, Early in the morning of the 28th, Lieutenant Clerke, with the Master and fourteen or fiftecii men, went on shore in the launch for water- The Captain did intend to have followed in another boat himself, but rather unluckily deferred it till after breakfast. The launch was no sooner landed than the natives gathered about her, behaving in so rude manner, that the officers were in some doubt if a they should land the casks ; but they ventured, and %vith difficulty got them filled, and into the boat again. Jn the doing of this Mr- Gierke's gun was snatched from him, and carried off; as were also seme of the cooper's tools, and several of the people were strip* j>ed of one thing or another- All this was done as it were by stealth; for they laid hold of nothing by main force. The Captain landed just as the launch was ready to put oft', and the natives, who were pretty numet'ous on the beach, as sron as they saw {lim, fled ; so that be suspected something had hap- pened. However, he prevailed on many to stay, and Mr. Clerke came, and informed him of all the preceding circumstances. He quickly came to a jesolution to oblige them to make restitution ; and .for this purpose ordered all the marines to be armed, and sent on shore. Mr- Fo rster and his party being gone into the country botaniaing, he ordered two or three guns to be fired from the ship, in order to alarm him, not knowing how the natives might act on this occasion- He then sent all the boats oif but one, with which he stayed, having a good many of the natives about him, who behaved with their usual pourtesy. He made them so sensible of his inten- tion, that long before tlie marines came, Mf- Gierke's jB^ct wa^5 biQuglit; but they used many excuses mmmm ^1 SECOND VOYAGE. \ 275 to divert him from insisting on the other. At length Mr. Edgcumbe arriving with the marines, this alarmed them so much, that some fled- The first stfep the Captain took was to seize on two large double sailing canoes which were in the cove. One fellow making resistance, he fired some small shot at him, and sent him limping off. The natives being now convinced that he was in fearnest, all fled ; but on calling to them, many returned ; and pre- sently after, the other musket was brought, and laid down at his feet- That moment he ordered the canoes to be restdrcd, to shew them on what account they were detained. On returning to go on board, he found a good many people collected together, from whom they understood that the man he had fired at was dead. This story he treated as improbable, and addressecj ^ man, wh6 seemed of some consequence, for the restitution of a cooper's adze they had ]ost in the morning. He immediately sent away two men. as h« thought, for it ; but he soon found they had greatly mistaken each other ; for instead of the adze, they brought the wounded man, stretclued out on a board, and laid him down by him, to uU appear- ance dea J. He was much moved at the sight ; but soon sav.' hii mistake, and that he waso:nly wounded in the hand and tliigh. He therefore desired he might be carried out of the sun, and sent for the surgeon to dress his wounds* Jvi the mean time, lie addressed several people for the adze ; for he was determined to have it. The one he applied most to, was an elderly woman, who had always a great deal to say to him from his first landing ; but on this occasion she gave her tongUiS full scope. The Captain understood but little of her eloquence ; all he could gather from her arguments was, that it was mean in him to insist on the return of so trifling n thing. But when she found he was determined, she and three or four more women went away ; and soon after the adze was brought him, but he saw her no more. This he was sorry for, as he wished lo make her a prescrit, iaTctum for the part fibe -^. ■'!».'■!< lit. .■^"■ % ..u* 176 \ ^ ^^. ;-^-^JtJt. »>■*. CAPTAIN COOK'S f.r i A had taken in ail their transactions, private as well as public; forhe;had no sooner returned Irom the pond, the first time he landed, than this old ladv prest:nted to him a girl, giving liim to understand she was at his service. Miss, who probably had received her instructions, wanted, as a preliminary article, a spike-nail, or a shirt, neither ot -^vhich he had to give h^, and soon made them sensible ot his povertv. He thought, by that means, to have come off with flying colours ; but he was mistaken; for they gave him to understand he might retire witli her oil credit. On declining this proposal, the old lady began to argue with him, and then abuse hi». Though he comprehended little of what she said, her action* were expressive enough, and shewei! that her words were to this effect, sneering in his face, saying. What sort ot a man are you, thus to ref"se the embraces of so line a young woman ? For the girl certainly did not want beauty. As soon as the surgeon got ashore, he dressed the man's wounds, and bled him ; and was ot opinion that he was in no sort of danger, as the shot had done little more than penetrated the skin. ** On the 2Sth ihcy prepared every thing in readi- ness to sail. On the 30th they saw the summit of Amattafoa, but not clear enough to determine with certainty whether there was a valcano or no ; but every thing they could see concurred to make them beheve there was- Anamocka, or Rotterdam, the island they had »ljust left, was first discovered by Tasmaii, and by him ^fHamed Rotterdam- It is of a triangular form, each ^sj4c is about three and a lialf or four miles. Round it lie scattered a number of small iJsles, sand-banks, '"^and breaker*.. 'I'hey could sec no end to their ex- tent to the north ; and it is not impossible that the> reach as far south as Amsterdam, or Tongatabn. I'hese, together with Middleburg or Eaoowee, ami Fylstart, make a group containing about three de- grees of latitude and two of longitude, which Cap- 'jUiu Cook uained the Fritjndly Isies or Archipelago, '-yf^r SECOND VOYAGE. srr ¥!• as a firm alliance and friendsh'p seems to subsist among the inhabitants, and their courteous beha- viour to strangers entitles ihem to that appellation. The inha!>itants, productions, 8cc. of Rotterdam, and the neighbouring isles, are the same as at Am- sterdam. There is, however, far more waste land on this isle, in proportion to its size, than upon the other, and the people seem to be much poorer ; that is, in cloth, matting, ornaments, &c. which con- stitute a great part of the riches of the South Sea islanders. ■' .jT;/. .v'"^ ..• They did not distinguish any King or leading chief, or any person who took upon him the ap- pearance of supreme authority. As the Captain intended to get to the south, in onlcr to explore the land which might lie there, they continued to ply between the? isle of Lepers and Aurora ; and on the I9th at noon, the last men- tioned isle bo;'e south distant twenty miles. At day-break on the 21st, they found themselves before the channel that divides Whitsuntide island fh)m the South Land, which is above two leagues over. Having sent two armed boats to sound, and look for anchorage, on their making the signal foF the latter, they sailed in and anchored in eleven fa- thoms water. Next morning early, a good many of the native* came round them, some in canoes, and others swim- ming. The Captain soon prevailed on one to come on boanl ; which he no sooner did, than he was follow- ed by more than he desired ; so that not only the deck» but rigging was presently filled with thenN He took four into the cabin, and gave them various articles, which they shewed to those in the canoes, and seemed much pleased with their reception. While he was thus making friends with those in the cabin, an accident happened, that threw all into confusion, but in the end proved advantageous. A fel- low in a canoe havinj^ been refused admittance into one of the boats that lay along-side, bent his bow to shoot a poiso ed arrow at the bcat-keeptr. Some of bis countrymen prevented his doing it tliat instiant, ■X*/ ,. -J' p wmmKm sra CAPTAIN COOK'S and gave time to acquaint the Captain with it. He ran instantly on deck, and saw anutlier man struggling with hinu; one of those who had been in the cabin, and had leaped out of the window for this purpcse! The oiher seemed ressolved, bhook him off, and di- rected his bow again to the boat-keeper ; but, on the Captain calling to him, pointed it at him. Hav- ing a musket in his hand loaded with small shot, he gave him the contents. This staggered him for a moment, but did not prevent him from holding his bow still in the attitude of shooting. Another dis- charge of the samc^ature made him drop it, and the others, who were in the canoe, to paddle off with all speed. At this time, some began to shoot arrows on the other side. A musket discharged in the air had no effect ; but a four-pound shot ovev their heads, sent them off in the utmost confusion. Many quitted their canoes and swam on shore ; those in the great cabindeaped out of the windows; and those who were on the deck, and on different parts of the rigging, all leaped overboard- After this they took no further notice of them, but suffei^ ed them to come off and pick up their canoes ; and some even ventured again along-side the ship. These people set no value on nails, or any sort of iron tools ; nor indeed on any thing they had- They vould, now and then, exchange an arrow for a piece of cloth ; but would very seldom part with a bow. Being unwilling to lose the benefit of the moon- light nights which now happened, at seven, A- M- on the 25d of July, they weighed, and proceeded out of the harbour. ^ When the natives saw them under sail, they came off in their canoes, making exchanges with more con- fidence than before, and giving such extraordinarr proofs of their honesty as surprised them. As the ship, at first, had fresh way through the water, se- veral of them dropped astern after they had re- ceived gomls, and before they had time to deliver theirs in return. Instead of taking advantage of this, they u*ied their utmost efforts to get up with them^ and to deliver them what they had already ""%' SECOND VOYAGE. 270 htcn paid for. One man, in particular, followed them a considerable tinne, and did not reach them till it was calm, and the thing was forgotten. As soon as he canne along-side, he held up the thing, ■which several were ready to buy ; but he refused to part with it, till he saw the person to whom he had before sold it, and to him he gave it. The per- son, not knowing him again, offered him something in return ; which he refused, and shewed him what he had given him before. Pieces of cloth, and mar- ble paper, were in most esteem with them ; bu et met with, and speak a difierent language. Of about eighty wonlt* which Mr. Forster collected, hardly one bears any affinity to the language spoken at any other island or place they had ever been at. The letter R is nsed in many of their words ; and frequently two or three being joined together, such woixls were found difficult to pronounce. ITic Captain observ- td that they could i^roncunce n»ost of the English words with great ease. They express their admi* nation by hissing like a goo^e. 1 o judge of the country by the fttlc they «aw of it, it must be fertile ; but their fruits are not so good as those oi the Society or Friendly Isles, They left *ji. SECOND VOYAGA 281 7 of ;ood left tliem a dog and a bitch ; and there is no doubt thejr ^ill be taken care of, as they were very fond of them. After they had got to sea, they tried what effect one of the poisoned arrows would have on a dog. In- deed they had tried it in the harbour the very first night, but they thouglit the operation had been too ^ight, as it had no effect. 1 he surgeon now made a deep incision in the dog^s thi^h, into which he laid a large portion of the poison, just as it was scraped from the arrows, and then bound up the wound with I bandage. For several days after they thought the dog was rot so well as he had been before ; but whether this was really so, or only suggested b^ imagination, is uncertain. He was afterwards as if nothing had been done to him, and lived to be brought home to England. However, there is no I doubt of this stuff being of a poisonous quality, as it could answer no other purpose. The people seem- ed Dot unacquainted with the nature of poison ; for when they brought them water on shore, they first tasted it, and then ^ave them to understand they might with safety dnnk it. This harbour, which is situated on the N. E. side of Mallicollo,-the Captain named Port Sandwich ; aiid it is so sheltered that no winds can disturb a ship at anchor there. Another great advantage is» you can lie so near the shore, as to cover your peo- |ple, who may be at work upon it. Soon after they got to sea, they stood over for imbrym* On the 24th they reached an island near iipee, about four leagues in circuit ; it is remarka* ^le by having three high peaked hills upon it, by irhicn it has obtained that name* They now steered the east; and having weathered Three hills, stood '01* a rroup of small isles which lie off the S* £. )int of Apee* These were called Shepherd's I slos, honour of Dr. Shepherd, Plumian Professor of ^tronoroy at Cambridge. The night before they came out of Port Sandwich, Iwo reddish fish about the size of a large bream, N not unlike thero, were caught with hook and VVOL.1. A a ^2 CAPTAIN COOK'S line. On these fish most of the officers, l^nd some of the petty officers, dined the next day. The night followin.^, every one who had eaten of them wa8 seized with violent pains in the head and bones, at- tended Nvith a scorching heat all over the skin, and mimbness in the joints. There remained no doubt mat this was occasioned by the fish being of a poison- ous nature, and having communicated its bad effects to all who partook of ihem, even to the hogs and dogs. One of the former died about sixteen hours after; It was not long before one of the latter shared the Kame fate ; and it was a week or ten days before all the gentlemen recovered. These must have been tiie same sort of fish mentioned by Quiros, under the name of Pargos, which poisoned the crews of his ships, so that it was some time before they recover- ed ; and they would doubtless have been in the same situation, had more of them been eaten. Continuing their course to the south, at five P. M. drew near the Southern Lands, which they found to consist of one large island, whose southern and west- ern extremities extended beyond their sight, ard three or four sma.^r ones lying nff its north side. The two northernmost are much the largest, have a good height* and lie in the direction of E. by S. and W. by N. from each other, distant two leagues. They named the one Montagu, and the other Hi; ch- inbrook, and the large island Sandwich, in honour of the Earl of Sandwich. As they passed Hinchinbrook Isle, several people came down to the sea-side, and by signs seerned to invite them ashore. S6me wer« also seen on Sand- wich Island, which exhibited a most delightful pros- pect, being spotted with woods and lawns, agreea- bly diversified over the whole surface. It hath a, Sentle slope trom the hills, which are of a moderat eight, down to the sea-coast. This is low, an guarded by a chain of breakers, so that there is m approaching it at this part. On the third of August, they found themselvei slbreast a lofty promontory ; and on the 4th, at dr h^rcak, the Captain went with two boats to exatnip' SECOND VOYAGE. 283 the Coast,^ look for a proper landing-place, wooc!, and yi^ater. At this time the natives began to assem- ble on the shore, and by signs invited them to land. The Captain went first to a small beach, v^ hich is towards the head, where he found no good landing. Some of the natives who were there, offered to haul the boats over the breakers uo the sandy beacH, which was thouj^ht a friendly offer, but they had reason afterwards to alter their opinion. When they found they would not do as they desired, they made signs for them to go dowif^nto a bay, which they accordingly did, and they ran along shore abreast of them, their nuntber increasing prodigious- ly. They put in to the shore io two or three places^ but c t Ukmg the situation, did not land. Hy thi3 time the natives conceived what they wanted, as they directed the boat round a rocky point, where, on a fine sandy beach, the Captain stepped out of the boat without wetting a foot, in che face of a vast multitude, with only a green braoch in his hand. He took but one man out of the boat with him, and ordered the other boat to lie-to, a little distance off* They received him with great courtesy and polite-r ness ; and would retire back from the boat on his making the least motion with his hand. A man, whom he took to be a Chief, seeing this, made them form a semicircle round the boat's bow, and boat such as attempted to break through this order- This man he loaded with presents, giving likewise: to others, and asked by signs for fresh water, in hopes of seeing where they got it. The Chief iiff the boat's stern. But as they did not take it away. H was thought this had been done by accident, and he ordered the boat in again to take it up. Then the natives hooked it over the boat's stem, and at- tempted to haul her ashore ; others at the same time snatched the oars out of the people's hands. On pdnting a musket at them, they in some measure Heaisted, but returned in an instant^ seemingly de- termined to haul the boat ashore. At the head of this party was the Chief; the others, who could not come at the boat, stood behind with darts, stones, atid bows and arrows in hand, ready to support tBcm. Signs and threats having no effect, their own safety becanae the only cnnsideratiou ; and yet the Captain was unwilling to fire on the multitude, and resolved to make the Chief alone fall a victim to bis own treachei7 ; but his musket, at this critical moment, missed fire- Whatever idea they might have formed of their arms, the natives must now have looked upon them as childish weapons, and be- gan to let them see how much better thcirji were, by throwhig stones and darts, and by shooting ar- rows. This made it abtoluteljr necessary to give mmmm ij^** SECOND VOYAGE. Ifi 'M orders to fir**. The first discharge thre^^hem into confusion ; but a second was hardly sufficient to drive them off the beach ; and after all, they con- tinued to throw stones from behind the trees and bushes, and evj^ry now and then, to pop out and throw a dart. Four lay, to all appearance, dead on tlie shore ; but two of them afterwards Crawled in- to the bushel. Happy it was for these people, tliat not half their muskets would go off, otherwise many more must have fallen- One sailor was wounded in the cheek with a dart» the point of which was as thick as a little finger, and yet it entered above two inches ; which shews that it must have come with great force, though indeed they were very ne^-- them. An arrow struck Mr. Gilbert's naked breast^f who was above thirty yards off; but probably it had struck something before ; for it hardly penetrated thq skin. The arrows were pointed with hard wood. • As soon as they got on board, the Captain order- ed the anchor to be weighed. While this was do- ing, several people appeared on the low rocky point, displaying two oars they had lost in the scuffle. This was supposed a s^n of submission, and of their wanting to give them the. oars. He nevertheless fired a four pound shot at them, to let them see the effect of, their great guns. The ball fell short, but frightened»them so much^ that none were seen after- wards ;'and they left the oars r,tanding up agauist the bushes. They now stood out to sea. These islanders seemed to be a different race from those of Mallicollo, and spoke a difi^rent language. They are of the middle size, havcFa good shape, and tolerable features. Their coloti^ is very dark, and they paint their faces, some with black, and others with red pigment. Their hair is very curly and crisp, and somewhat coolly. They saw a few women, and thought them ugly ; th^y wore a kind of petticoat made of palm-leaves, or some plant like it* Out the men^ like those of Mallicollo, were in a manaec n^«d ; ^a^rtng only the belt about the yfmif and the piece of eloth, or leaf, used as a wrai>« Aa3 ^86 m CAPTAIN COOR'S '> per. They saw no canoes with these people, nor wn*e any seen in any part of tliis isUnd. They live in houses covered with thatch, and their plantations <^«re laid out by line, and fenced round* In the night of the 5th of August they saw a light, •^vhich was occasioned by a volcano, whidi they oi)< «< served to throw up vast quantities of fire and smoke, with a rumbling noise heard at a gr^at distance* They now made sail for the island whence it ap- peared, and presently after discovered a small inlet which had the appearance of being a good harbour. «The w«nd left them as soon as they were within the entrance, and obliged them to drop an anchor in four fathoms water. After this the boats were sent to sound. Many of the natives now got together in parties, on several parts of the shore, all armed with bows^ spears, &c. Some swam o(F to them, others canne in canoes. At first they were Shy, and kept at the dis- tance of a stone's throw ; they grew insensiblv bold- er, and at last came under their stem, ana made some exchanges. The people in one of the first ca- noes, after coming as near as they durst, threw to- wards them, some cocoa-nuts. The Captain went into a boat, and picked them up, giving them in re- turn some cloth and other articles* This induced others to cortie under the &tem, and along-side, where their behaviour was insolent and daring. They wanted to carry c(F every tiling within their . reach ; they got hold of the fly of the ensign, and would have torn it from the staff; others attempt- ed to knock t^ rings off the rudder ; but the great- est trouble my gave them was to look after the buoys of their michors, which were no sooner thrown out of the boats, or let go from the ship, than they got hold of them. A few muSkets 6red in the air had nd%fiect ; but a four-pounder frightened them so mucU, that they quitted their canoes that instants and took to the water. But as soon as they found themselves Unhurt, they got again into their canoes* gave them some halloos, founded thdr weaponsi fnd m^rne4 ^c<^ moif W tte Noyt. This pot SECOND VOYAGE. •# Sty them to 'the expense of a few nmsketaon ball, which had the deftired eflRsct Although none wer« shot, they were afterwards afraid to come near the buoys ; very soon all retired on diore,and they were permitted to sit down to dinner undisturbed. Towards the evening* after the ship was moored* the Captain landed at the head of tne harbour* in the S E. comer, with a strong party of men, without any opposition being made by a great number of Uie natives who were assembled in two parties^ the one on the right, the other on the leftt armed with dubs, darts, spears, slings, and stones, bows, and arrows^ kc After diistributing to the old people {for ih^y Godd distinguish no cmef,) and some others, pre* seats of cloth, medals, &c< he ordered two casldi to be filled with water out of a pond about tweni^ paces behind the landing-place, giving the native* to understand that this was one of the articles they wanted. Besides water, they got from them a few cocoa-nuts, which seemed to be in plenty on Uie trees ; but they could not be prevailed upon lo part with any ot their weapons. These they hehl in constant readiness, and in the proper attitude^ of offence and defence, so that little was wantu^ |0 make them attack them; at least they thought |o» by their pressing so much upon them* and in spit^ of their endeavours to keep them oi^ Tiietr early re*embarliing probably disconcerted their scheme, and after that thejr m retired* As they wanted to take m a large quantity botU of wood and water, and as, when he wai^ on shore^ he had found it practicable to lay the ship mud^ nearer the landin|( place than s|ie now wa^ which would greatly fiacilitate that work* as well as iwer* awe the natives, and enable them better locover andl protect the working party on shore ; with tUa view. on the 6th» th^ endeavoured to transport Hie s^ to the place the Captain deaiened to moor her &> While they were about this, th^ observed the nar tives assembling from all partg, and forming then^ •elves hitoiwo parto» a» tbevdid the pnecedine evening, one wcasb mdfl) ^ hfidi^'fiaiie, to to ^» .'281 CAPTAIN COOK'S amount of some thousands, armed as before. A ca« noe, sometimes conducted by one, and at other times by two or three men, now and then came off, bring- ing u few cocoa-nuts or plantains* The Captaiu jHiide an old man, who seemed well dispo^^ed, under- stand, by signs that they were to lay aside their iveaponb, took those which were in the Ciinoe, and threw them overboard, and made him a pre- sent of a lary^e piece of cloth. There was no doubt that he understood him, and made his request iLnown to his countrymen ; for as soon as he landed, they observed him go first to the one party, and then to the other ; nor was he ever after seen with any thing like a weapon in his hand. After this, three fellows c:ime in a canoe under the stern, one of them brandishing a club, with which he struck the ship's -side, and committed other acts of deiiance, but at last offered to exchange it for a string of beads, and some other trifles. These were sent down to him ^*' a line ; but the moment thev were in his posbes- T, he and his companions paddled off in all haste /without giving the club or any thing else in return. This was what the Captain expected, and indeed ivhat he was not sorrv fo^^yas he wanted an oppor- 'tunity to shew the multitiide on ^hore the effects of their fire-arms, without meterially hurting any of them. Having a fowling-piece loaded wiui small shot, (Ko. 3,) lie gave the fellow the contents ; and "yvh^n ^hey were above musket-shot off, he ordered some of the musketoons, or wall*pieces, to be fired, •'Which made them leap out of U^eir canoe, keepun- 4er her off-side, and swim with her ashore. This itransaetion seemed to make little or no impression cm the people there ; on the contrary, they began to halicko, and to make sport of it. ^ Afti^ mooring the ship, by four anchors, with her %foadH^de to tlie landing-place, hardly musket-shot <^, and placing the artiUery In such a manner as to oonimaa4the whole harbour; he embarked with the .^laarines, aUd^a party of iekmen, in three boats, and rowed in!lo)rthe shore* It hiith been ah-^dy men- ^t^ned, tbiftbc %m divi^oa^ of the natives wore SECOND VOYA.GE. 269 ^rawn up on each side the landin|;-pUc«k They had left a space between theiu of about thirty or for* ty yards, in wliich were laid, to the most advan« tage, a few small bunches of plantains, a yana, ami two or three roots. Between these and Uie water iyere stuck upright in the sand, for what purpose they never could learo, four small reeds, alxiut two feet from each other, in a line at right anf^Ves to the shore, where they remained for two or threft days after. The old man before mentioned, and two more, stood by these things, inviting them by signs to land ; but the former trap was still in their memory, which they were so near being caught in at the last island ; and this lor>ked something like it In short, every thing conspired to make them believe they meant to attack tnein as soon aa tliey should be on shore ; the consequence of which was easily supposed : many of them must have been killed ana wounded, and they should hardly have escaped unhurt ; two things the Captain equally wished to prevent He ordered a musket to be i)r- ed over the party on the right, which was by far iht strongest body ; but the aiarra it gave them was momentary. In an instant they recovered themselves^ and began to display their weapons- One fellow shewed them his backside, in a manner which plain- ly conveyed his meaning. After this, he oniered three or four more muskets to be fired. This was the signal for the ship to fire a few great guns, which presently dispersed them; and then they landed, and marked out the limits, on the ri^ht and left, bv a line. The old man befoi^ mentioned stood nis giHJund, though deserted by his two companions, and the Captaiiv rewarded him. The natives came gradually to them seemingly in a more friendly man* ner ; some even without their weapons, but by far the greatest pan brought them ; and when thc^ made signs to lay them down, they gave the English to understand that they must lay down theirs Brst. Thus all parties stood armed. They indeed climb- ed the cocoa-nut trees, and threw down the nuts v^ithout requirioj; wy t^ing for them ; but the »0 CAPTAIN COOK'S Captain took care that thcj' should always have somewhat in return. He obsiervcd that many were afraid to touch what belonged to them ; a? id they Beenifd tf» have no notion oi exchanjs^ing one thing for another The Captain took thi old man (whose nanu- wati now found to bi* Puowaig) to the woods, and matle him understand he wanted to cut down some trees to take on board the !»hip ; cutting down •ome at the same time, which they put into one of the boats, together with a few small casks of water, "With a view of letting the people see what it was they chiefly wanted Paowang very readily gave his consent to cut wood ; nor was thej e any one vho nrnde the least objection. Having landed again, they loaded the launch with water, and after mak- ing three hauls with the seine, caught upwards of 300 pounds of mullet and other fish. It was some time before any ot the natives appeared, and not above twenty or thirty at last, amongst whom was thtir trusty friend Paowang, who made them a present of a small pig, which was the only one they got at this isle, or that was offered them* During the night, the volcano, which was about fnur "miles to the west, vomited up vast quantities of fire and smoke, as it had also done the night bt-iore; and the flames were seen to rise above th^ hill which lay ber wren them and it» At every eruption, it made a long rumbling noise like that of thunder, or the blowing lip of large mines. A heavy shower of rain, which fell at this time, seemed to increahe it ; and the wind blowing from the same nuarter, the air was loaded With its ashes, which tell so thick that every thing was covered with the dust. It was a kihd of fine sand, or ston^, ground or burnt to pow- der, and was exceedingly trt^ublesome to the eyes- Early in the morning of the Tth, the natives began again to asf^emble near the watiering- place, armed as lisual, but not in such numbers as at first. After breakfast they landed, in order to cut wood and fill watet* They found many of the islander* much in- clined to befriends, especially the oldr^opie; on the other handy most of the younger \^eu. daring SECOND VOYAGE. ^1 and insolent, and obligecUhem to keep to their arms* The Captain stayed till he saw uo disturbance was like to happen, and then returned to the ship, leaving the party under the cammancl of Lieutenants Clerkc and Edgcunibe. When they came on board to din- ger, they informed him, that the people continued to behave in the same incnnsi.stent manner as in the morninf; ; but more especially one man, whom Mr- Edgcumbe was obliged to fire at, and believed he had struck with a swan-shot. After that the others behaved with more discretion. On the 9th Mr. Forster learnt from the people the proper name of the island, which they call Tan- na. They gave them to uvdp«'vtand, in a mannef which they thought admitted of :v doubt, that they eat human flesh, and that circun cision was practised among them. They began the subject cf eatutg of hu-, in?P flesh, of'theif own acoflrd.by ^skingthem if they did. One of the men employed in taking in ballast scalded his fingers in removmg a stone out of some, water. This circumstance produced the discovery of- several hot spring?*, at the foot of the cliff, and ra-^ ther below high-water mark. Durmg the night of the 10th, also all the lUh, the volcano was exceedingly ttoublesome, and nvade a terrible noise, throwing up prodigioiiji columns of. Are and smoke alt each explosion, N*hich happened every three or four minutes; and, at one time, irreat, stones were seen nigh in the air. Mr. Forster and» Jiis partv wqnt up the hill on the west side of the har-<. hour, where he found three places whence smokel of a sulphureous smell tesued, through cracks or^- iissures in the earth. The grnuud about these waa. exceedingly hot, snd parched or burnt, and they, seemed to keep pace with the volcano ; for, at every' explosion of the latter, the quantity of smoke or. steam in these was jreatlv increased, and forced^ out so as to rise in small cpiumns, which they saw* from the ship, and.had taken for common lires made by the natives. At the foot of this hill are the hot springs before mentioned. . In the forenoon Mr- Fprster having began hifl>o- mm 292 CAPIWIN COOK'S tanical researcbes on the oU^er «de of the harbonir^ fell in with Pnewang's house, where he saw most of the articles the ('^aptain had giTen him, hanging on the ac'ioiiiing trees and bushes, as if they were »ot worthy of being under his roof. Several other pans of the hill emitted smoke or steam all the ^y, and the volcano was usually fu* riousy insomuch that the air was loaded Avith its ash- es. The ram which feH at this time was a compound of water, sand, and earth ; so that it piopeiiy might be called showers of mire- Whichever way the 'Wind was, they were annoyed by the ashes, unless it blew very strong indeed from the opposite direction. I^otwithstanding th^ natives seemed well enough sa- tisfied with the few expeditions thev bad made in Ae neighbourhood, tltey were unwming they should extend them further- As a proof of tras, some mi^ dertook to guide the ger/Hbmen when thev were in tile countrVy to a place where they migtit see the liiouth of the volcano- They very readily embraced the oflPb* ; and were conducted down totlie barbouri before they perceived the cheat. The 13th, wind at N. E. gloomy weather. The ddy thing worthy of note this day, wa», that Pan* ^ang being at dmner with them on board, they took the opportunity to ehew him several jparts of the ship, and vanous at*ticles, in hopes of finding out •omethfng which he might value, -ndbe induced to take in exchange for refreshments ; tor what they had Jot of this kind was tri^g^ But he looked on every >ing^ that was shewn him with the utmost indifier* cnce ; nor did he take notice of any thing except a "Woodenr sand>bo}C, which he seemed to admire, and ^med two or three times over in his hand- Next morning after breakfast, a party of them set out for the country, to try if they could not get a nearer and better view of the volcano. The place affected by the heat was not above eight or ten yards sguare ; and near it were some ng-trees, ivhich spread their branches over a part of it, and see ed to Hkethiir situation. It was thought that this ex- iraorAaaiy heat was caused by tlie steam of boiUng SECOND VOYAGE. S93 yfSittt Strongly impregnated with sulphur. They proceeded up the hill through a couratry so covered with trees, shrubs, and plants, that the bread-fruit and cocoa-nut trees, v^hich seem to have been planted here by nature, were b a manner choked up. Here and there they met with an house, some few people, and plantations. These latter they found in different states ; some of long standing ; others lately cleared ; and some only clearing, and before any thing had been planted* Happening toi turn out of the common path, they came into a plan- tation where they found a man at work, who, either out of good nature, or to get them the sooner out of his territories, undertook to be their guide. They follow^ liim accordingly ; but had not gone far be- fore they came to a junction of two roads, in one of which stood another man with a sling and a stone» - which he thought proper to lay down when ia musket v. v was pointed at him. The attitude in which they found him, the ferocity appearing in his looks, and i his behaviour ajfter, convinced them that he ment to , defend the path he stood in. He, in some measui'e, gained his point ; for the guide took the other road, and they followed, but not without suspecting . he^ was leading them out of the common way. The other man went with tliem likewise, counting them several times over, and hallooing, as they judged,^,^^ for assistance ; for they were presently joined by -^ two or three more, among whom was a young wo- i man with a club in her hand. By these people they t were conducted to the brow of a hill, and shewn a ! road leading down to the harbour, which they want- ^ cd them to take. Not choomng to comply, tliey re- turned to that they had left, which they pursued alonei ? their guide refusing to go with them. After ascending another r^ge as thickly covered with wood as those they had come over, they saw yet other hills bctweeu them and the volcano, which seemed as far (tf as at t^-^ir first setting out. This discouraged them. from proceeding farther,espccially as they could get ilioone to be their guide- They therefore came to a resolution to return ; and hadh^it just put this in execution whea VOI^f. Bb ■P MHI S94 CAPl'AIN COOKS they met between twenty and thirty people, whom I tlie felkiw before mentioned had colleeted together, with a deiign, no doabt» to oppose their advancing! kito the country. I Before this excursion some were of opinion, that I these people were addicted to an unnatural passion, because they had endeavoured to entice some of the men into the woods ; and in particular, one who had the care of Mr. Forster^s plant bag, had been oncei or twice attempted- As thecarrying of bundles, kz- is the office of the women in this country, it had oc- curred to the Captain, and he was not singular ii ikkis^ that the natives might mistake him, and some others, for women. This conjecture was fully veri- fied this day. For this man» who was one of the party, and carried the bag as usual, following the{ Captain down the hill, by the words which he un- derstood of the conversation of the natives, and by their actions, lie was well assured that they consid- ered him an a female; till, by some means, they dis-j covered their mistake, on which they cried out, JEr- Tamanife S Erramange ! 'Tis a man ! 'tis a man.! The thing was so palpable^ that every one was ob- liged to acknowledge, that they had before mistaken his sex ; and that, alter tliey were undeceived, they seeroeed not to have the least notion of what they had suspected- Thts circumstance will shew how comm^m it is to form wrong conjectures of things, any )ng people whose language is not understood- 1 Had it not been for this discovery, no doubt these people would have been charged witli tins vile cus- tom. In the evening Captain Cook took a walk with some of the gentlemen«4iito the country on the other side of the harbour, where tliey had very different treat- ment trom what they had met with in the momin^v The people they now visited, among whom was their | friena Paowang, being better acquainted with thern» •hewed a readiness to oblige them in every thing in their power* They came to a vUla^ ; it consisted of aboQt twenty houses^ the most at which need no o^er description than comparing them to the roof of a tlmtched house in England^ taken off the wall$ SECOND VOYAGE. 295 jrod placed on the ground* Some were open at both ends ; others partly closed with reeds; and aU were covered with palm thatch. A few of thetn were thirty or forty feet long, and fourteen or sixteen broao* This part of thfc island was well cultivated, open, and airy ; the plantations were laid out by line, abounding with plantains, suear-cant s, yams^ and ether roots, and stocked with huit-tfte^s On the 15th, having finished wooding and water- ing, a few hands only were on shore making brooms» the rest being employed on board, setting op the rij:gtng, and putting the ship in a condition for sea. Mr. Fnrster, in his botanical excursions, shot a pi- geon, in the craw of which was a wild nutmeg- He took some pains to find the tree, but his endeavours were without success. On the 17th the Captain went ashore, to pay a visit to an old Chief, who was said to l^e king of the island.— Paowang took little or no notice of him ; the Captain made him a present, after which he im- mediately went away, as if he had got all he came for. His name was Geogy, and they gave him the title of Areeke* He was very old, but had a merry open countenance* He wore round his waist a broad red and white checkered belt, the mateiials and manufacture of which seemed the same as that of Otaheite cloth ; but this was hardly a mark ot dis^* tinction. On the 17th, about ten o'clock, the Captain went ashore, and found in the crowd old Geogy and a son of his, who soon made him understand tliat they wanted to dine with him ; and accordingly he brought them, aiiil two more, on lx)ard. They all called tiiem AreekeeM (or kings \) but \% is doubtful if any of them had the least pretensions to that title over the whole island. When he got them on board, he went with them all over the ship, which they viewed with uncom- mon surprise and attention. They happened to have for their entertainment a kind of pie or pudding Jjfiade of plantains, and some sort of greens vv hich ftey * d got from one 3f the natives. On this, and Mi 296 CAPTAIN COOK'S ©n yams, they made a hearty dinner ; for, as to tht fialt beef and pork, they would hardly taste them. In the aftemonn, having made each of them a present of a hatchet, a spike-nail, and some medaU, they *vrere conducted on shore. On the l^h, having nothing else to do, the Cap* tain went on shore with some wood-cutters, and finding a good number of the natives collected about the landing-place as usualihe distributed among them all the articles he had with him, and then went on board for more. In less than an hour he returned, just as the people were ^tting some large logs into the boat At the same time four or five of the na- tives stepped, forward to see what they were about, and as they did not allow them to come within cei> tain limits, unless to pass along the beach, the sen- try ordered them back, which they readily complied •with. At this, time Captain Cook having his e\ 3s fixed on them, he observed the sentry present his piece (as he thought at these men) and was just going to reprove him for it, because he had observ- ed tnat, whenever this was done, some of the na- tives would hold up their arms, to let them see they •were equally ready. But he was astoni^ed beyond measure when the sentry fired, for he saw not the least cause. At this outrage most of the people fled ; it was only a few he could prevail on to re- main. As they ran off, he observed one man to fall ; and he was immediately lifted up by two others, •who took him into the water, washed his wound, and then led him oif. Presently after some came find described to the Captain the nature of his wound ; and he sent for the surgeon. As soon as he arrived, the Captain went ;^th him to the man, whom they found expiring. The ball had struck his left arm, •which was much shattered, and then entered his body by the shoj*t ribs, one of which was broken* The rascal who fired, pretended that a man had laid an arrow across his bow, and was going to shoot at him, so that he apprehended himself in danger. JBut this was no more than they had always done^ mid with no other view than t9 shew they were arm- SECOND VOYAGE. 297 €(1 as weir as they ; at least there was reason to think so, as they never went farther. What made this accident the more unfortunate, was, it not ap- pearing to be the man who bent the bow, that was shot, but one who stood by him. This affair threw the natives into the utmost consternation ; and the few that were prevailed on to stay, ran to the plan- tations, and brought cocoa-nuts, Sec. which they laid down at their feet. So soon were these daring peo- ple humbled ! When the Captain went on boardno dinner, they all retired, and only a few appeared in the afternoon, among whom was Paowang. He promised to bring frujt, &c the next morning, but their early departure put it out of his power. On the 20ih of August they put to sea. These people had not the least knowledge of iron ; onse* quently, nails and iron tools, beads, 6cc> which had no gi*eat a run at the more eastern isles, were of no consideration here ; and cloth can be of no use to people who go naked. In t his island hogs did not seem to be scarce ; but they saw not many fowls. These are the only do- mestic aniinals they have. Land birds are not more numerous than at Otaheite, and the other islands ; but they met with some small birds, with a veiy l^eautiful plumage, which they had never seen be- fore There is as great a variety of trees and plants here, as at any island they touciied at, where their botanists had time to examine. The Captain never saw any sort of fishing-tackle amongst them, nor •^ny one out fishing, except on the shoals, or al«ng the shores of the harbour, where they would watch to strike with a dart such fish as came withm their reach ; and in this way they were expert. They seemed much to admire the Bfiropean manner of catching iisli with the seine. These people s^re of the middle size, rather slen» der than otherwise ; many are little, but few tall or stout ; the most of them have good features, and agreeable countenances, they seem to exclin the use of arms, but not to be fond of labour. They HQver would put a hand to assist in any work th^^ ■ } \'» 2M CAPTAIN COOK'S 'were carrying on, which the people of the othei' islands used to delight in. They make the females do the most laborious work* as if they were pack- horses. A woman has been seen in this island, car- rying a large bundle on her back, or a child on heu back and a bundle under her arm, and a fellow strutting before.ker mth nothing but a club or spear» or some such thing. l*he women are not beauties ; but they are hand-' .some enough for the men, and too liandsome for the use that is made of them. Both sexes are of a very dark colour, but not black ; nor hare they the least characteristic of che negro about them. They make themselves blacker than they really are, by paint- ing their faces with a pigment of the colour of black lead. They also use another son which is red, and a third sort brown, or a colour between red and black* All these, but especially the first, they lay on, with a liberal hand, not only on the face, but on the neck, shoulders, and breast The men wear nothing bu a beft, and a wrapping leaf. The women have a kind of petticoat made of the filaments of the plan- tain tree, flags, or some such thing, which reaches below the knee. Both sexes wear ornaments, such as bracelets, ear-rings, necklaces, and amulets. The bracelets are chiefly worn by the men ; 9ome made of sea-shelis, and others of those of the cocoa-rnut. With darts they kill both birds and fish, and are sure of hitting a mark within the compass of the crown of a hat, at the distance of eight or ten yards; but, at double that distance, it is chance if they hit a xnark the size of a man!s body, though they v^ill throw the weapon sixty or seventy yftrds. They always throw witlj^ll their might, let the distance De what it will^ Darts, bows and arrows are to them what muskets ace to Europeans. Mr. Wa'cs speaking of their dexterity, says, " I must confess I have been often led to think the feats ■which Homer represents his heroes as performing vfith their spears, a little too much of the marvellous to be admitted into ari heroic poem ; I mean whea ^nfiufd within the straight stays ^ AiistoUfw N^f^ SECOND VOYAGE. 299 even ^ great an advocate for him as Mr. Pope, ac- knowledges them to be surfiming. But since 1 have seen what these people can do with their wooden spears, and them badly pointed, and not of a very hard nature, I have not the least exception to any one passage in that great poet on this account But, if I 'Bee fewer exceptions, i can find iiliinitely more beauties in him ; as lie has, I think, scarce an action, circumstance, or description of any kind whatever, relating to a spear, which I have not seen.^nd recog- nized among these people ; as their whirling motion* and whistling noise, as they fly j their quivering: mo- tion, as they stick in the ground when they fall ;; their meditating their aim, when they are going to thrr>w ; and their shaking them in their hand as they go along, &c. &c." As soon as the boats were hoisted in, they mad^ sail, and stretched to the eastward, with a fresh gale at S. EX Nothing material occurred till Sep-f teraber 4, when looking S. & the coast seemed to terminate in a high promontory, which the Captain named Cape Colnett, after one of his midshipmen, who first discovered this land. After a fev^ctirs calm,^they got a breeze at S. E. and spent the nigh^ standing oft and on. Sonrie gaps or openings were seen on the 5^ to lie all along the coast, whetl^er they plied up'the coast to the S E. or !)ore down to N, W, 'lliey chose the latter; and after running two leagues down the outside of the reef (for such it proved) they came before an opening that had the appearance of a good channel. They wanted to get on shore, to have an opportunity to observe an eclipse of the sun, whicn was soon to happen. With this view |hey brought-to, hoisted out two armed boats, and sent them to sound the channel ; ten or twelve larKe sailing cupoes being then near them. , They had ob- served them coming offfrom the shore all themorn-r ing, from dilPsrent parts ; and sonde were lying on the reef, fishing, as they supposed. As soon as they till gm together, they came down in a body, aiu^ were pretty ncay i^ea they were hoistkig oat " 300 CAPTAIN COOK'S boats, which probably gave them Kome alarm ; for, without stoppinij, they hauled m for the. reef, and the ahip^s boats t'ollowed them. vii^if^p The boats haying made a signal for a channel, they stood in. Their sounding was from fifteen to twelve fathoms, which shallowed gradually, as they approached Ule shore» when they anchored in live fathoms. ^ rhey had hardly got to an anchor before they ^ere su rounded bv a great number of the natives, in sixteen or eighteen canoes, the most of whom were without any sort of weapons. At iir&t they were shy of coming near the ship ; but in a short time they prevailed on the people in one boat to get close enough to receive some presents. These they lowered down to them by a rope, to which, in re- turn, they tied two hsh that stunk intolerably. Th'.'s<3 mutual exchanges bringing on a kind of confidence, two ventured on board the ship ; and presently after, she was filled with them, and they liad the company of sev eral at dinner in the cabin* Pease soup, salt beef and pork, they had no curiosity to taste ; but thf y. ^e of some yams. Like all the nations iliey had laitely seen, the men were almost naked, Tliey were curious in examining every part of the sliip, which they viewed with uncommon attention. They haa not the least knowledge of goats, hogs, dogs, or cats,and had not even a name for one of them. They seemed fond of large spike nails, and pieces of red cloth, or indeed any other colour, but red was their favourite* After dinner, the Captain went on sho\^ with two armed boats, having with them one of the natives who had attached himself to him< They landed oo a sandy beach before a vast number of people, who had got together with no other intent than to see them ; for many of them had not a stick in their hands ; consequently they were received with greal courtesy, and with the surprise natural for people to express, at seeing men and things sp new to them as they must be. The Captain made presents to fdl \bsm hi% myf bm^ poiatcd QUt| who Y(^t^ SECOND VOYAGE. 301 either old men, or such as seemed to be of some note ; but he tciok not the least notice qf a few wo- men* who stood behind the crowd, keeping back the Captain's hand when he was going to ^ive them some beads and medals. Here they found a Chief, whose name was Teabooma ; and they had not been on shore above ten minutes, before he cal- led for silence. Being instantly obeyed by every individual present, he made a short speech ; andi soon after another Chief having called for silence, made a speech also. It was pleasing to tue ' with what attention they were heard. Their speeches were composed of short sentences ; to each of which two or three old men answei'ed, by nodding their heads«and giving a kind of grunt, significant of appro* bation. It was impossible for them to know the pur- port of these speeches ; but they had reason to think they were favourable to them, on whose ac^ccunt th^y doubtless were made. The natives conducted them, upon inquiring for water, about two miles round the coast, te a little straggling village, near some mangroves; there they landed, and were' shewn fresh water. The ground near this riloUage was finely cultivated, being laid out in plantations , of sugar-canes, plantains, yams, and other roota. They heard the crowing of cocks, but saw none. Some roots were baking on a fire, in an earthen jar, which would have held six or eight gallons ; nor did they doubt its being their own manufacture. As they proceeded up the creek, Mr. Forster hav- ing shot a duck flying over their heads, which was the first use these people saw made of fire-arms, the native, whom Captain Cook distinguished by the name of his friend, begged to have it ; and when he landed, told his countrymen in what manner it was killed. The day being far spent, and the tide* not permitting them to stay longer in the creek, they took leave of the peo{^le, and got on board a little after sun'-sct. Next morning they were visited by some hun-« dreds dTthe natives ; some comiiig in t ^oes, and others swimming off; so that before ten o'clock. 302 dJiWAfU c560K'ft their decks, and all other parts of the ship, were quite full The Captain's triend, who was of the number, brouj^ht him a few roots, but all the others came empty in respect to eatables. Some few had with them their arms, such as clubs and darts, which they exchanged for nails, pieces of cloth, &c. Next day Mr. Wales, accompanied by Lieutenant Clerk, went to make preparations for observing the eclipse of the sun, which was to be in the after- noon* £ In th^*evthing, the Captain went ashore to the vraterii^place. Ercellent wood for fuel was here, far more convenient to procure than water, but this was an "^ article thfey did not want About seven o'clock in the evening of September 6, died Simon Monk, their butcher, a ftian much esteemed in the ship ; his death was occasioned bv a fall down the fore-hatch way the preceding nignt* This afternoon a iish being struck by one of the natives near the watering-place, the Captain's clerk -purchased it, and sent it to him after his re- turn on board' It was of a new species, something likfe a sun>-lis(h, with a large, long, ut*^^-' head. Hav- ing no suspicion of its being of a poisonous nature, thefy bt'dered it to be dressi^d for supper ; but, very luckily, the operation of drawing and describing took up ko much time, that it was too late, so that oWly the liver and roe were dressed, of which the two Mr. FoTsters and the Captain did but taste. About three o'clock in the morning, they all found themselves seized with an eiitraordinary weakness and numbness allover their limbs. The Captain had almost lost the sense of feeling; nor could he distinguish between light and heavy bodies, of such as he had strength to move ; a quart pot, full of wa- ter, and a feather, bemg the same in his hand. They each of them took.an emetic, and after that k s#eat, which gave them much relief. In the morning one of the pigs, which had eaten the en- trails, was found dead. When the natives came on board, and saw the fish hang up, they immediately gave thetn to tmderstand it was not wtioleson^ fooOf SECOND VOYAGE. 303 and expressed the utmost abhorrence of it ; though no one was observed to do thi^ when the fish was to be sold, or even immediately after it was pur- chased* On the 8th, the guard and a party of men were on bhore as usual. In the afternoon the Captain re* ceived a message froni the officer, acquainting him that Teabooma the Chief was come, with a present consisting of a few yams and ^ugar-canes. In return^ he sent him, amongst other articles, a dog and a bitch, both young, but nearly full grown* The dog was red and white, but the bitch was all red, or the crlour of an English fox. The Captain says, he mentions this, because they may prove the Adam and Eve of their species in that countrj'. When tlie officer returned on board in the evening, he inform- ed the Captain that the Chief came, attended jy about twenty men, so that it looked like a visit of ce- remony^ It was some time before he would believe the dog and bitch were intended for him ; but as soon as he was convinced, he seemed lost in an ex* cess of joy, and sent them away immediately. Next morning early, the 9th, Lieutenant Pickers- gill and Mr. Gilbert were sent with the launch and cutter to explore the coast to the west. The two Mr. Forsters and the Captain were confined on board, though much better, a good sweat having had an happy effect. In the afternoon, a man was seen, both ashore and along-side the ship, said to be a4 white as an European. From the account obtained of this circumstance, his whiteness did not proceed from hereditary descent, but from chance, or somp disease. On the 10th, a party was sent on shore as usual, and Mr. Forster was so well recovered as to go out botanizing. In the evening of the 11th, the boats returned, when the Captain was informed, the cutter was near being lost, by suddenly BBing with water, which obliged thea\ ta thrpw several thiiigs overboard, be- fore they could free her %ndstop th^ le^kshehad liprung. From a fishing canoe, which they met 304 CAPTAIN COOK'S coming in from the reefs, they got as much fish as^ they could eat ; and they were received by Teabi, the Chief of the isle of Balabea, and the people, who came in numbers to see them, with g'reat courtesy. In order not to be too much crowded, thev drew a line on the ground, and gave the natives to under- stand they were not to come within it. This restric- tion they observed ; and one of them soon after turned it to his own advantage : for happening to have a few cocoa-nuts, which one of the sailors want- eU to buy, and he was unwilling to part with, he walked off*, and was followed by the man who want- ed them. On seemg this he sat down on the sand, made a circle round him» as he had 3een them do, and signiBed that the other was not to come within it ; which was accordingly observed* This story the Captain says was well attested* In the afternoon of the ISth, the Captain went on shore, and on a large tree, which stood close to the shore, near the watering-place, had an inscription Ciit, setting forth the shin's name, date, &c. as a tes- timony of their being the first discoverers of this country, as he had done at all others at which they had touched, where this ceremony was necessary. This being done, they took leave ot the natives, and returned on board ; when he ordered all the boats to be hoisted in, in ordei* to be ready to put to sea iu the morning. The people of this island are strong, robu: ' rctivei and well-made ; they are also courteous and friend- ly, and not in the least addicted to pilfering, which is more than can be said of any other nation in this sea. They are nearly of the same colour as the na- tives of Tanna, but have better features, more agree- able countenances, and are a much stouter race ; a few being seen who measured six feet four inches. Their hair and beards arc in general black. The former is very much frizzled ; so that, at first sight, it appears like that of a negro. It is, nevertheless, very dift^reQt ; though both cp* Tser and stronger. 8ome who wear it lofng, tie it up on the erown of the head ; others buffer only a large lock to igrow on SECOND VOYAGK. 3r5 • each side, which thsy tie up in clul>8 ; many others, as well as all the women, wear it cropped short. Tliese rough heads most probably want frequently scratching ; for 'which purpose they have a most excellent mstrument. 1 his is a kind of comb made of sticks of hard wood, from seven to nine or ten inches long, and about the thickness of knitting nee- dles. A number of these, seldom exceeding twenty, but generally fewer, are fastened together at one end, parallel to, and near 1-lOth of an inch from each other. The other ends, which are a little pointed, will spread out or open like the sticks of a fan, by •which means they can beat up the quarters of an hundred lice at a time* These combs or scratchers, for they serve both purposes, they always -wear in their hair on one side of their head. The people of Tanna have an instrument of this kind for the same l\ise ; but theirs is forked, never exceeding three or four prongs, and sometimes only a small pointed stick. Their beards, which are of the same crisp nature as their hair, are for the most part worn phort. Swelled and ulcerated legs and feet are com- pen among the men, as also a swelling of the scro- tum. It is not known whether this is occasioned by iisease, or by the mode of applving the wrapper, ^hich they use as at Tanna and Mallicollo. This is their only covering, and is made generally of the ")ark of a tree, but sometimes of leaves. The small )ieces of cloth, paper, &c. which they got from [hem, were commonly applied to this use. Some 'lad a kind of concave, cylindrical, stiff black cap, 'hich appeared to be a great ornament among them, ind they supposed was only worn by men of note, or warriors. A large sheet of strong paper, when they Sot one in exchange for any thing, was generally applied to this use. 'fheir houses, or at least most of them, are circu- ir ; something like a bee-hive, and full as close and 'arm. The entrance is by a small door, or long luare hole, just big enough to admit a man bent [ouble. The side-walls are about four feet and a alf high ; but the roof is lofty; and peaked t© a point ' VOL. h € c •■■'♦. 306 CAPTAIN COOK'S at the top ; above vhich is a post, or stick of wood, 'Which is generally ornamented either with carving* or shells, or both'. In most of them they founi two fire-places, and commonly a fire burning ; and as there was fiO vent for tue smoke but by the door, the whole housfc^ was both smoky and hot, insomuch that they, who were not used to such an atmosphere, could hardly endure it a ipoment In some respects their habitations are neat ; for, besides the ornaments at top, there were some with carved door-posts. Upon the whole their houses are| better calculated for a cold than a hot climate ; anc as there are no par'^itions in them, they can have lit- tle privacy. They have no great variety of household utensils; earthen jars being the only article worth noticej Each family has, at least, one of them, in whicli they bake their roots, and perhaps their fish, &c The fire by which they cook their victuals, is onth« outside of each house, in the open air. They subsist chiefly on roots and fish, and the bark of a tree, which also grows in the West Indies This they roast, and are almost continually chewing^ Water is their only liquor ; at least, they never saw any other made use of. It seems to be a country un- able to support many inhabitants* Nature has beei less bountiful to it, than to any other tropical island known in this sea. The greatest part of its surfa consists of barren rocky mountains ; and the grass &c- growing on them is useless to people who have no cattle. Nevertheless, here are several plants, &c. com- inon to the eastern and northern islands, and even a species of the passion-flower, which has never before been known to grow wild any where but in America. The botanistf aid not complain tor want of employ^ ment at this place ; every day bringing to light some thing new in botany or other branches of natural hi* tory. Land birds, indeed, are not numerous, bu4 several are new ; or at least such as they never sal before. All their endeavours to get the name of thf? whc SECOND voyage: ;o7 island, proved ineffectiia'. Probably, it is too large for thetn to know by one name. Whenever they made this inquiry, they alw ays gave them the name of some district or place, whiich they pointed tp. Hence Ca^itain Cook imagines that the country is divided into several districts, each governed by a Chief ; but they know nothing of the extent of his power. Balade was the name of the district they were at, and Feabooma the Chief. He lived on the other side of the ridge of hills ; so that they had but little of his company, and therefore could not see muchi of his power- Tea seems to be a title pre- fixed to the names of all, or most of their Chiefs or great men. The Captain was by one of their prin- cipal men called Tea Cook. Their fishing implements are turtle nets, made of the filaments of the plantain-tree twisted ; and small hand nets, with very minute meshes, made of fine twine, and fisli-gigs. llieir general method of fishing, is to lie on the reefs in shoal water, and to strike the fish that may come in their way. The women of this country, and likewise those of Tanna, are far more chaste than those of the most eastern islands- The Captain says he never heard I that one of his people obtained the least favour from any of them. The ladies here would frequently di- vert themselves, by going a little aside with the of- ficers, as if they meant to be kind to them, and then would i*un away laughing at them. Whether this was chastity or coquetry, cannot be determined, nor is it material, since the consequences were the same. Every thing being in readint-ss to put to sea, at sun-rise, on the 13th of September, they weighed^ and with a fine gale at E- by S. stood out for the same channel they came in by. Nothing remarkable occurred till the 28th in the evening, when two low islots were seen bearing W. by S. and as they were connected by breakers, which seemed to join thoae on their starboard, it became necessary to haul ofFS- W. in order to get clear of them. At three, more breakers appeared, extend- ing from the low isles towards the 15. E. They now / G08 CAPTAIN COOK'S hauled out close to the wind, and in an hour and an half were almost on board the breakers, and obliged to tack. From the roast-head, they were seen to extend as far as E, S. £• and the smoothness of the sea made it probable that they extended to the north of east, and that they were in a manner surrounded by them. They spent the night in making short boards, un- der the terrible apprehension, every moment, of fall- ing on some of the many dangers which surrounded them. Day-light shewed that their fears were not ill- founded, and that they had been in the most immi- nent danger, having had breakers continually under their lee, and at a very l^Jtle distance from thenu They owed their safety to the interposition of Provi- dence, a good look-out, and the very brisk manner la which the ship was managed; for, as they were standing to the north, the people on the lee gangway and forecastle saw breakers under the lee-bow» tf h jch they escaped by quickly tacking the ship. They were now almost tired of a coast which they could no longer explore, but at the risk of losing the ship, and ruining tne whole voyage* The ship was at tliis time conducted bv an officer placed at the mast4iead ; soon after, witli great ctf- iiculty, they arrived within a mile of laud, and were obliged to anchor in thirty-nine fathoms water ; they then hoisted out a boat, in which the Captain went ashore, accompanied by the botanists. Here they found several tall trees, which had been observed before at a considerable distance ; they appeared to be a kind of spruce pine, very pioper for i»pars, of of which they were in want ; after making this dis- covery, they hastened on board, in order to h^ roore time after dinner, when they landed again with two boats, accompanied by several of the offi- cers.and gentlemen, having with them the carpen* ter and some of tlie crew, to cut down such trees as were wanting. i'he little isle upon which they landed, is a mere eand'bank, not exceeding three-foniths of h miicia SECOND VOYAGE. 309 Circuit, and on it, besides these pines, grew the £t08 tree of Otaheite, and a variety of other trees, shrubs, and plants. These gave sufficient enjployment to the botanists, all the time they stayed upon it, and occasioned the Captain's calling it Botany Isle. On it were several water-snakes, some pigeons and doves, seemingly different from any they had seen. One of the officers shot a hawk, which proved to be of the very same sort as the English fishing-hawks. Several fire-places, branches and leaves very little decayed, remains of turtle, &c. shewed that people had lately been on the isle. The hull of a canoe lay wrecked in the sand. They were now no longer at a loss to know of what trees they make their canoes, as they can be no other than these pines. They also found on the isle a sort of scurvy-grass, and a plant called by them Lamb's Quarters, which, when boiled, eats like spinnage- Having got ten or twelve small spars to make studding-sail booms, boat's masts, &c* and night ap- proaching, they returned with them onboard. The purJDose for which they anchored under this isle being answered, it was necessary to consider what was next to be done. They had, from the top- mast head, taken a view of the sea around, and oo- served the whole, to the west, to be strewed with small islots, sand-banks, and breakers, to the utmost extent of their horizon. This induced the Captain to try to get without the shoals ; that is, to the southward of them. Next morning, at day-break, the 30th of Septem- ber, they got under sail. The wind continuing at S. W. W.S. W-and west, blowing a fresh gale, and now and then squalls, with showers of rain, they steered to S. S. E. without meeting with any remarkable occurrence till near noon on the 6th of October, when it fell calm. In the afternoon, they had a boat in the water, and shot, two albatrosses, which were geese to them. They had seen one of this kind of birds the day before, which was the first they observed siijce they had been within the tropic. Cca "i H 310 CAPTAIN COOK'S In the evening of the 8th, Mr. CooTper havmg struck a porpoise with a harpoon, \t was necessary to bring to, and have two boats out, before they could kill it, and get it on board. It was six feet long ; a female of that kind, which naturalists call dolphins of the ancients, and which difters from the other kind of porpoise.inthe head and jaw, having them long and i)omted. This had eighty-eight teeth in each jaw- The haslet and lean flesh were to them a feast. The latter was a littje liverish, but had not the least fishy taste. It was eaten roasted, boiled, and fried, .first soaking it in warm water. Indeed, little ait was wanting to make any thing fresh palatable to ; those who had been living so long on salt meat. They continued to stretch to W- S. W. till the tenth, when at day-bi'eak they dicovered land, bear- ing S- W. which on a pearer approach they found to be an island of good height, and five leagues in cir- cuit- It was named Norfolk Isle, in honour of the < iioble family of Howard. After dinner a party em- barked in tvvo boats, and landed on the island with- out any difficulty, behind some large rocks, which lined part of the coast. They found it uninhabited, and were undoubted- ^ iy the first that ever set foot on it. I'hey observed many trees and plants common at New Zealand; and, in particular, the flax plant, which is rather more luxuriant here than in any part of that coun- try ; but the chief produce is a sort of spruce pine, •which grows in abundance, and to a large size, many of the trees being as thick, breast high, as two men could fathom, and excedingly straight and tall. It I js a good deal like the Quebec pine. For about two hundred yards from the shore, the grouRd is cover- ed so thick with shrubs and plants, as hardly to be K penetrated farther inland. The woods were per- fectly clear and free from underwood, and the soil seemed rich and deep. They found the same kind of pigeons, parrots, and paiToquets, as in New Zealand, rails, and some 9>mall birds. The sea fowl are white boobies, gulls, terns, Sec which breed undisturbed on the chores, |ind m U'C cliflfs of tih^ rcck&j. SECOND VOYAGE. 311 On the isle is fresh water ; and cabbage-palm, t^ood-sorrel, 8ow-thistle» and samphire, abounding in some places on the sliore ; they brought on board as much of each sort as the time they had to gather them would admit. The approach of night brought them all on board, when they hoisted in the boats, and stretched to 3S.N.E. After leaving Norfolk Isle, they steered for New Zealand, intending to touch at Queen Charlotte's Sound, to refresh the crew, and put the ship in a condition to encounter the southern latitudes. On the irth, at day -break, they saw Mount Eg- mont, which was covered with everlasting snow, bearing S. E. half E. Their distance from the shore was about eight leagues. On the 18th, at eleven o'clock, they anchored be*- fore Shi[) Cove ; the strong flurries from off the land not permitting them to get in. In the afternoon, as they could not move the ship, the Captain went into the Cove, with the &eine, to try to catch some fish. The first thing he did aftey landing, was to look for the bottle he left hid when last here, in which was the memorandum. It was taken away, but by whom it did not appear* Two hauls with the seine producing only four small fish, they in some measure made up for this deficiency, by shooting several birds, which the flowers in the garden had drav/n thither, as also sonje old shags, and by robbing the nests of some young ones. Being little wind next morning, they weighed and warped the ship into the Cove, and there moored with the two bowers. Here the forge was erected, and the ship and rigging repaired. The Captain gave orders that vegetables (of which there were plenty) should be boiled every morning with oat* meal and portable broth for breakfast, and with pease and broth every day for dinner' for the whole crew, over and above their usual allowance of salt meat. In the afternoon, as Mr. Wales was setting up bis observatory, be discovered ^at jsev^ral tre^ ■Hi 312 CAPTAIN COOK'S ■which were standing when they last sailed from this place, had been cut down with saws and axes. It -was therefore now no longer to be doubted, that the Adventure had been in this Cove after they had left it. i ; Nothing remarkable happened till the 24th, when. In the mornnig, two canoes were seen coming dowa the sound ; but as soon as they perceived the ship, they retired behind a point on the west side. Alter breakfast they went in a boat to look for them ; and as they proceeded along the shore, they shot several birds. The report of the muskets gave notice of their approach, and the natives discovered them- selves in Shag Cove by hallooing to them. The moment they landed, they knew them. Joy then took place of fear ; and the rest of the natives hur- ried out of the woods, and embraced tliem over and over again, leaping and skipping about like mad- men ; but it was observed that they would not suffer some women, whom they saw at a distance, to come near them. After they had made them presents of hatchets, knives, and what else they had with them, they gave in return a large quantity of fish, which they had just caught. After a short stay, they took leave, and went on board. Next morning early, the inhabitants paid them a visit on board, and brought with them a quantity of fine fish, which they exchanged for Otaheitean cloth* &c. and then returned to their habitations. Oil the 26th, the natives brought a plentiful sup- ply of fish. On the 28th, a party went a shooting to West Bay, and came to the place where they left tlie hogs and fowls ; but saw no vestiges of ihem, nor of any body having been there since. In. their return, having «isited the natives, they got some fish in exchange for trifles which thev gave them. As they were coming away, Mr. Forater thought he heard the squeaking of a pig in the woods, close by their habi- tations; probably they may iiave those they left vith them when last here. In the evening, they got pn board with about a dozen and ah^Ut'of wild fowUi rSECOND.VOYAGIf- SIQ Aftgs, and sca^pies. The sportsmen who had been cut in the woods near the ship» were more success- fal among the small birds. On the 6th, their old friends having taken up their abode near them, one whose name wau Pedro, (a man of some note) made the Captain a present of a staff of honour, such as the Chiefs generally carry. In return, he dressed him in a suit of old clothes, of which he was not a little proud. He had a fine per*- son, and a good presence, and nothing but his colouf distinguished him from an European* Havmg got fcim^ and another, into a communicative mood, he began to inquire of them if the Adventure had been there during his absence ; and they gave him to un« derstand, in a manner which admitted of no doubt» that, soon after they were gone, she arrived ; that she staid between ten and twenty days» and had been gone ten months. t- After breakfast, he took a number of hands» ia order ta catch a sow that had been there for some time (her companion having been killed) to put^het* to the boar, and remove her to some other place ; but the^f returned without seeing her. Some of the natives badt been there not long betore, as their fires were yet burning i and they had undoubtedly taken her away. . . '^ ' ■ Tlie 8th, they put two pigs, a boar and a^ sow, on shcire in the cove next without (Cannibal Cove ; so that it is hardly possible all the methods the Caj)- taiii hsLS taken to stock this country with these ani- Kials should fail. On the 9th, the natives having brought a very large and seasonable supply of fish, the Captain be- litoWed on Pedro a present of an empty oil-jar, ivhich made him as happy as a prince- In the afternoon, a party went on shore into one of the coves, where were two families of the natives variously etnployed ; some sleeping, some making mats, others roasting fish and fire-roots» and one girl ■was heating of stones- As soon as the stones were kot, s^e took them out of the fire and gave them to fia old womaDf who was sitting in the hut She placed I P"iii^iHP 3U CAPTAIN COOK'S them in a heap, laid over them a handful of green celery, and over that a coarse triat* and then squat- ted herself down, on her heels, on the top of all; thus making; a kind of Dutch warming-pan, on whicli she sat as close as a hare on her seat. The Captain says he should hardly have mentioned this operation, if he had thought it had no other view tlian to warm the old woman's back' 'de. He rather supposes it was intended to cure some disorder she might have on her, which the steams arising from the greea celery might be a specific for. rnt BOOK III. '**• From leaving' Kevj Zealand to their Return to pnglani^ . .»■■ ON the 10th of November, tliey weighed and ' stood out of the Sound, and steered for Cape Campbell. At four in the afternoon, they passed the Cape, at the distance of four or five leagues. The next morning the wind veered round by the west to south, and forced them more to the east than they had any view of going. The Captain's intention now was to cross this vast ocean, so as to pass over those parts which were leit unexplored the preceding summer. On Saturday the 17th of December they made the land, extending from N. & by N. to E- by S. about six leagues distant. On this discovery, they wore and brought-to, with the ship's head to the south ; and having sounded, found seventy-five fathoms water, the bottom stone and shells. The land now before them could be no other than the west coast of Terra del Fuego, and near the west entrance of the Streights of Magalhaens. This was the first run that had been made direct- ly across this ocean, in a high southern latitude. The Captain savs that he never made a passage, any where, of such length, where so few interesting SECOND VOYAGE, 315 circumstances occurred. For, the variation of the compass exsepted, he met with nothing e'se worth notice. Here they took their leave ot the South Pa- cific Ocean. • . On the 18th of December, as they continued to range the coast, about two leagues distance, at eleven o'clock they passed a projecting point, which ivas called Cape (iloucester. It shews a round sur- face of considerable height, and has much the ap- J)earance of being an island, distant seventeen eagues from the isle of Landfall. After passing the two islots, they steered E. S. E. crossing the great bay of St. Barbara. " On the 20th, at noon, they observed York Min- ster, then distant five leagues. At ten o'clock, a breeze springing up at E. by S. they took this op- portunity to stand in for the land to recruit their stock of wood and water, and take a view of the country. In standing in for the east side of York Minster, they had forty, thirty-seven, fifty, and sixty fathoms •water. Upon gohig in farther, it shallowed, and they anchored in thirty fathoms, the bottom sand and broken shells. Here was found plenty of wood and water, and here they set about doing what was necessary to the «hip, the outside of which was become very foul. The Captain was now told of a melancholy accident •which had befallen one of their marines- He had not been seen since eleven or twelve o'clock the preceding night. It was supposed that he had fal- len over-board, out of the head, where he had been last seen, and was drowned. On the 23d, Mr. Pickersgill was sent in the cutter to explore the east side of the Soui.d, with an intent to survey the island under which they were at an- <:hor, and which the Captain called Shag-Island About seven in the evening he returned, and in- formed the Captain, that the land opposite to their station was an island, which he had been round; that between it and the east head lay a cove, in which "were many geese; one only of which he got, be- sides some young goslings- pli CAPTAIN C00K*3 This information induced them to make up two shooting parties next day ; Mr. Pickersgill and hi» associates going in the cutter, and the Captain and the botaniste in the pinnace. Mr. Pickersgill went by tlie N. E. side of the islarid above kwentioncd, which obtained the name of Goose Island ; and the other boat went by tlie S. W. side, and presently found sport enough ; for in the south side of the island were abundance of geese. It happened to be the moulting season ; and the most of them were on shore for that pui^pose, and could not fly. There being a high surf, they found great difficulty in land- ing, and very bad climbing over the rocks when they were landed ; so that hundreds of the geese es- caped, some into the sea, and others up into the land. They, however, by one means jr other, got sixty- two, with which they returned on board all heamily tired ; but the acquisition they had made over bal- anced every other consideration, and they sat down ^ith a good apoetite to supper on part of what the preceding day had produced. Mr Pickei*8gill and his associates had got on board some time before with fourteen geese, so that they were able to make* distribution to the whole crew, which was the more acceptable on account of the approaching festivals ; for had not Providence thus singularly provided for ihem, their Christmas cheer must have been salt beef and pork. The next morning, the 25th, some of the natives paid them a visit. They are a little, ugly, half- starved, beardless race ; not a tall person appear- ed amongst them. They were almost naked ; their clothing was a seal-skin ; somr had two or three sewed together, so as to make a cloak which reached to the knees : but the most of them had only one skin, hardly large enough to cover their shoulders ; and all their lower parts were quite nakt ed. The women cover their nakedness with tlie flap of a seal-skin, but in other respects are clothed like the men. Two young children were seen at the breast entirely naked ; thus they are inured from their infancy to cold and kardship?* They had with. ■ wi^ . ** •• » ' SECOND VOYAGE. (hem bowtand arrows ; and darts, or ratherharpoons, made of bone, and fitted to a staff. Perhaps they were intended to kill seals, and fish ; they mar alsa kill whales with them, as the Esquimaux do. They» and every thing thejr had, smelt most intolerably of train oil. The women and children remained in their ca* noes. These were made of bark ; and in each waa a fire, over which tne poor creatures huddled themselves. They do n(^ carry a fire in their ca- noes for this purpose only ; but rather that it may be always ready to remove ashore wherever they land. They likewise carry in their canoet» large seal hides to shelter them when at sea, and to serve as covering to their huts on shore ; and oc*" casionally to be used for sails. They all retired before dinner, and did not wait to partake of their Christmas cheer* Indeed no one iovitedthem, and for good reasons ; their dirty per- sons, and the stench they carried about them, were enough to spoil the appetite of any European, and that would have been a real disappohitment, as the. ship's company had not experienced such fare for some time. Roast and boiled geese, goose-pye, &c. was a treat little kndwn to them, and they had yet some Madeira wine left, which was the only article of provision that was mended by keeping ; so that their friench in England did not, perhaps, celebrate Christmas more cheerfully than they did. Next day the natives made another visit ; and itbe* ing distressing to see them stand trembling and nak- I ed on the deck, the Captain humanely gave thena some baize and dd canvass to cover themselves. On the 27th, every thing was got off the shore, I so that they now only waited for a wind to put to sea. The festival, which thev celebrated at this place* occasioned the Captain^s giving it the nam^ |of Christmas Sk>und. , The refffeshments to be got here are precanou^, they are chiefty wild fowl, and may probably lever be found in such plenty as to supply the crevf )faship. They consist of geese. duQk8,4i»ca-pi«a» 318 CAPTAIN COOK'S shags, and that kind of gull, called Port-Egmont hen. Here is a kind of duck, called by the sailors, race-horses, on account of the great swiftness with "Which they run on the water; tor they cannot fly, thf wings being too short to support the body in the air. The geese too are much smaller than English tame geese, but eat as well. . They have short black bills and yellow feet. The gander is all "white ; the female is spotted black and white, or gray* with a large white spot on each wing. The Captain says, of all the nations he had seen, these people seem to be the most wretched. They are doomed to live in one of the roost inhospitable climates in the world, without having sagacity enough to provide themselves with such conve- niencies as may render life, in some measure, more comfortable. Barren as this country is, it abounds with a va- riety of unknown plants, and gave sufficient em- ployment to Mr. Forster and his party. At four o'clock in the morning on the 28th they began to unmoor, and at eight weighed and stood out to sea, with a light breeze at N. W. They now resumed their course to the East, and the next day, at half past seven, they passed Cafit Horn, and entered the Southern Atlantic Ocean. It is the most southern extremity on a group of islands of unequal extent, lying before Nassau Bay, known by the nam-:; of Hermite Islands. From Cape Hons they steered E. by N. i N. and stood over for Success Bay, assisted bv the currents, which set to the north. Before this, they had hoisted their colours, and fired two guns ; and soon after, they saw a smoke rise out of the woods, above the south point of the bay, which was supposed to be made by the natives. As soon as the)[ got off the bay. Lieutenant Pickersgill went to see if any traces remained of the Adventure; but he saw not the least signs of any ship having been there lately. The Captain bad inscribed his ship's name on a card, I which he nailed to a tree at the place where the En- deavour ^atered. This wa9 done with a view cf giving Captain Furneaux ^ome information In case SECOND VOYAGE. 319 be should be behind them, and put in there. Mr. Pickersgill said the bay was full of whales and seals. In the morning, at three o'clock, they bore up for the east end of Staten Land, where they arrived next day in the afternoon. After dinner they hoisted out three boats, and landed with a large party of men ; some to kill seals; others to catch or kill -birds, fish, or what came in their way. To find the forrner* it hiattered not where they landed, for the whole shore was cov- ered with them ; and by the noise they made, one would have thought the island was stocked with cows and calves. On landing, they found they were a diff(^vent animal from seals, but in shape and motion exactly resembling them. I'he sailors called them lions, on account of the great resem- blance the male has to that beast- Here were also '■ the same kind of seals which they found in New, ' Zealand, generally known by the name of sea-bears ; • at least they gave them that name. They were in general so tame, or rather stupid, as to suffer them' to come near enough to knock them down with sticks ; but the large ones were shot, not thinking it safe to approach them. They also found on the island abundance of penguins and shags, and the latter had young ones almost fledged. Here were ^eese and ducks, but not many ; birds of prey, and a tew small birds, in the evening they returned on board their boats, well laden with one thing or other. Next day, being January the first, 177 5 ^ finding that nothing was wanting but a good harbour to make this a tolerable place for shjps to refresh at, which chance or design might bring hither, Mr.. Gilbert went over to Staten liand in the cutter, to look for a good harbour^ Appearances promised success in the place opposite the ship. The Cap- tain also sent two other boats for the lions, &c. tliey had killed the preceding day. After shooting a few geese, some other birds, anv. plentifully supply- ing themselves with young shags, they resumed S20 CAPTAIN COCK'S on board, laden with sea-lions, sea-bearsv kc The old lions and bears were killed chiefly for the «ake of their blubber, or fat, to make oil of ; for, ex* tiept their haslets, which were tole* ibie, the flesh vas too rank to be eaten with any degree of relish. But the young cubs were vt ry palatable^ and even the flesh of ^oni'e of the old lionesses was not much amiss ; but that of the old males was abominable* In the afternoon, some people were sent to skin and cut off the fat of those which yet remained dead on •chore ; for they had already more carcasses on board than necessary^ About ten o'clock Mr. Gil- be it returned from Staten Land, where he found a good port, situated three leagues to the westward of Cape St* John* It is almost two rniies in length ; in some places near a mile broad On the island vere sea- lions, &c. and such an innumerable quan- tity of ^lls as to darken the air when disturbed, and almost to suffocate the people with their dung. This they seemed to void in a way of defence, and it stunk worse than assafoetida, or, as it is common* ly called. Devil's Dung. The day on which this port was discovered, occasioned tlie Captain's call* mg it New- Year's Harbour At four o'clock on the 3d they weighed and stood «ut to sea. The animals found here are sea-lions, sea-bears, a variety of oceanic, and some land birds. The sea- lions are not of that kind described^ under the sama liame« by Lord Ansor ; but these would more pro- perly dese7ve that appellation ; the long hair, with ivhich the back of tiiehead, the neck, a^d shoulders, are covered, g;ving them greatly the air and aj)- pearance cf a lion. The other part of the body is covewid v.'i-a a sltort hair, little longer tlian that of n cow or a horse ; and the who'ie is a dark brown. The female \& not half so big as the male, and is covered "^^^ith a shoil: hair, oi- nn ash, or light dun colour. They live, as it were, in herds, >n the ^ock&^ and n^ar the sea slicie.' As this was the time for engendering as well as bringing forth their youn^, they saw a inale» with twenty or thirty fe» SECOND VOYAGE. 321 males about him, and always very attentive to keep them all to himself, and beating off every other male who attempted to come into his ilockc Othei s again had a less number ; some no more than one or two ; and here and there was seen one lying growling in a retired place, alone, and suffering neither males nor females to approach him ; they naturally sup- posed these were old and superannuated. The sea-bears are not so large by far as the lions, but rather larger than a common seal. They have none of that long hair which distinguishes the lion- Theirs is all of an equal length, and liner than ttiat of the lion, something like an otter's, and tiie gene- ral colour is that of iron grey. This is the kind which the French call sea-wolvey, and the English seals ; they are, however, different from the seals m Europe and North America. I'he lions may too, without any great impropriety, be called nvergro\^n seals ; for they are all of the same species. It was not at all dangerous to go among them ; for they t ither fled or lay still. The only danger was in going be-* tween them and the sea ; for if they took fright at any thing, they would come down in such nupibers, that, if you co'ild not get out of their way, you would be run over. Sometimes, when the people came sudderily upon them, or waked them out of their sleep (for they are a sluggish, sleepy animal) they would raise up their heads, snort and snarl, and look as fierce as if they meant to devour you ; but as they advanced upon them, they always run away ; so that they are downright bullies. The oceanic birds were gulls, te'^n. Port Eg- mont hens, and a large brown bird, of the iAze of aii albatross, which Pernety calls cjuebranthahuessas* The sailors called them Mother Gary's geese, and found them pretty good eating. The land birds were eagles, or hawks, bald- headed vultures, or what the seamen called turkey buzzards, thrushes, and a few other gmall birds. It is amazing to see how the dilTcrent animals, which inhabit this small place, are mutually recon-* iiled« They seem to havp entered ihto a k^gus 3 22 CAPTAIN COOK'S not to disturb each other s tranquillity. Tlie sea^ lions occupy most of the coast ; the sea-bears take up their abode in the isle ; the shags have post in the highest ehfFs ; the penguins fix their quarters where there is the most easy communication to and from the sea; and the other birds choiise more re- tired places. Captain Cook says, he has seen all these animals mix together like domeslic cattle and poultry in a farm-yard» without one attempting to aDolest the other. t Having left the laad in the evening of the 3d, as before mentioned, they saw it again next morning, at three o'clock, bearing west. On the 9th, wind at N. fi. attended with thick hazy weather, they saw a seal, and a piece of sea- weed. On the 14th, at nine o'clock in the mornmgv ^^v saw an island of ice, as they then thought ; but at noon were doubtful whether it was ice or land ; it turned oat to be the latter, and was in a, manner >vholly covered with snow. On the 16th they be*^ an to explore the northern eoast. And at two o'clock in the morning of the irth, they made sail in for the land* As soon as they drew near the shore, having hoisted out a boat, the Captain embarked in it, accompanied by Mr. Forster and his pirty, with a view of reconnoitring before they ventured in witli the ship, which they afterwards declined, as the inner parts of the coun- try were savage and horrible. The wild rocks rais^ ed their lofty summits, till they were lost in the oloudsy and tliv^^ valleys lay covered with everlasting snow. Not a tree was to be seen, nor a shrub even h\^ enough to make a tooth-pidk* Seals, or s^xa-bears, were pretty numerous. They were smaller than those at Staten L#and ; perhaps the most of those they now saw were females ; to the shore swarmed witli young cubs. They saw pone of that sort which they call lion^ ; but there were some of those which the writer of Lord An» {^n's Voyage describes under that name. M tUe imA bir^ tti»y sftw ^jm\»i vS^ f^ SECOND VOYAGE. .323 small larks ; nor did they meet with any quadru- peds* Mr. Forst^r, indeed, observed some dung^, which he j idged to come fro;m a fox or some sucl| animal. It must not, however, be understood that they were in want of provisions ; they had yet plenty of every kind ; and since their arrival on this coast, the Captain ordered, in addition to the common al** lowance, wheat to be boiled every morning for breakfast ; but any kind of fresh meat was pi^efer- red by most on board to salt ; for his part, he says, he was heartily tired of salt meat of every kind ; and thongh the flesh of the penguins could scarcely vie with bullock's liver, its being fresh was sufficient to make it go down. They called the bay they had beau \u Possession Bay. As soon as the boat was hoisted in, they made sail along the coast to the east, with a fine breeze at W. S. W^ for the space of eleven or twelve leagues, to a projecting point which obtained the name of Cape Saunders. Beyond this Cape is a pretty large bay, which was named Cumberland Bay- At two o'clock in the morning of the !2iQth, they made sail to S. VV. round Cooper's i?Und- It is a rock of considerable height, about five miles in cir* cuit, and one from the main. On the 20th they fell in with an island, which they f amed the isle of Georgia, in honour of his Majesty. 't extends S. E. by E and N. W. by W. and is thir- /-one leagues long in that diiection; and its gi-eatest breadth is about tea leagues- It seems to abound with bavs and harbours, the N. E. coast espt ally ; but tfie vast quantity of ice coast render them inaccessible the greatest part of the year. From the 2Qth to the 27th they had a continuation of foggy weather. I'hey now growing almost tired of high southern latitudes, where nothmg was to be iound but ice and thick fogs, stood to the cast till half past two o'clock, P. M. when the> fell in, all at once, with a vast number of large ice-islands, and a 9ea strewed with loose ice. l?or this reason thef tiiQkfd aod 9(Qo4 to the W6st| witb tJ^e wind at ngitb^ '^24 CAPTAIN COOK'S 4ft ^»j^ ^i- irr?i'«.A i.i i\} a'» / *, The ice-islands, which at this time surrounded tliem, were nearly all of equal height, and shewed a flat even surface. On the 1st of February, at four o'clock in the mornings they got sight of a new coast* It proved a high promontory, which was named Cape Monta- gu, but prudence would not permit them to venture near the shore, where there was no anchorage, and where every port was blocked or filled up with ice ; and the whole country, from the sumn>its of the mountains dov/n to the very brink of the cliffs which terminate the coast, covered, many fathoms thick, with everlasting snow- The cliffs alone were the only land I '"^ seen- ' - ^ ^ It was novv xessary to take a view of the land to the north, before they proceeded any farther to the east. With this intention, they stood to the north, having a hght breeze at W. by b. On the 3d they saw two isles. The day on which they were discovered, was the occasion of calling them Candlemas Isles. They were of no great ex- tent, but of considerable height, and were covered •with snow. On the 4th they resumed their course to the east, with a faint breeze at Sr S. E. and at eight o'clock the wind shifted to the south. About noon they met with several ice-islands and some loose ice, the weather continuing hazy with snow and rain. The risk run in exploring a coast, in these un- known and icy seas, is so very great, that no man, the Captain says, will ever venture farther than he has done ; and therefore the lands which may lie to the south will never be explored. Thick fogs, snow storms, intense cold, and every other thing that can render navigation dangerous, must be en- countered ; and these difficulties are greatly he'ght- ened by the inexpressibly horrid aspect of the coun- try ; a country doomed by nature never once to feel the warmth of the sun's rays, but to lie buried in ^everlasting snow and ice. The ports which may be on the coast, are, in a manner, wholly filled up with frozen snow of vast thickness ; but if any should be ^g far open as to inylte a ship into it^ she Yf puld run wmm SECOND VOYAGE. 325 fi risk C5f being fixed there forever, or of coming out in an ice island. The islands and floats, on the coast* the great falls from the ice clifis in the port, or a heavy snow storm, attended with a sharp frost, would be equally fatal. After such an explanation as this, the reader will not expect to find them much farther to the south. It wa , however, not for want of inclination, but for other reasons. It would have been rashness to have risked all that had been done during the voyage, ia discovering acoast, which, w<*en discovered, would have answered no end whatever, or have been of the least use, either to navigation or geography, or in- deed to any oGxer science ; and besid^ ail this, they were not now in a condition to undertake gteat things ; nor inf^ed was there time, had they been ever so well provided. These reasons induced the Captain to alter his course to the east, with a very strong gale at north, attei^ded with an exceedingly heavy fall of snow* The quantity which lodged in their sails was so great, that they were frequently oMiged to throw the ship up in the wind to shake it out of them, other- wise, neither they nor the ship could have supported the weight. On the liOth the wind freshened and veered south ; ft was attended with showers of sleet and snow till day-light, when the weather became fair, but pierc- ing c^d, so that the water on deck was frozen, and at noon the ^lercury in the ihermooieter was no higher than 34^. On the 22d of February, a« they were within two degrees of longitude from their route to the south, when they left the Cape of Good Hope, it was to no purposrj; to proceed any farmer to the east under this psirallel, knowing that no land could be there^ They had now made the circuit of the Southern Ocean in a high latitude, and traversed it in such a manner as to leave not the least room for the pos* Bibility of there being a continent, unless near the pole, and out of the reach of navigation. By twice visiting the tropical tea^ they had not cmly settled mmm 336 CAPTAIN COOK'S the situation of some old discoveries, but made there xnany new ones, and left very little more to hi* dmt jn that part. Thus the intention of the voyage has, in every respect, beeti fully answered ; the southern hemisphere sufficiencly explored ; and a final end p u to the searching after a southern continent, which na», at times, engrossed the attention of some of the mi^ritime powers, for near two centuries past, and been a favourite theory amongst the geographers of all ages. Their sails and rigginpj were so much worn, that something was giving way every hour } and they had ^nothing left, either to repair or replace them. Their provisions were in a state of decay, and yielded lit- tle nourish uent, and they had been a long time "without refreshments. The sailors indeed were yet healthy, and would have cheerfully gone wherever they were led ; but they dreaded the scurvy laying; liold of them, at sf time when they had nothing left to remove it. It would however have been cruel to have continued the fatigues and hardships they *were continually exposed to, longer than was abso- lately necessary. Their behaviour, throughout the "whole voyage merited every indulgence which it was possible to give them. Animated by the conduct of the officers, they shewed themselves capable of surmounting every difficulty and danger which came in their way, and never once looked either upon one or the other, as being* at all heightened, by their se- paration from their consort the Adventure. On the 8th of March the mercury in the thermome- ter rose to 61, and they found it necessary to put on lighter clothes. On the 12th they put a boat in the water, and shot some albatrosses and peterelSy whichi at this time, were highly acceptable. Every one was now become impatient to get into port ; this induced the Captain to yield to the general wish, and to steer for the Cape ot Good Hope. At day-light, on the 16th, they saw two sail in the N. W. quarter standing to the westward, and one of thenrt shewing Dutch co- lours* At ten o'clock they tacked and stood to the SECOND VOYAGE- 32? west also. The Captain demanded of the officers and petty officers, the log-books and journals they had kept, which were delivered accordingly, and sealed up for the inspection of the Admiralty. He also enjoined them, and the whole crew, not to di» vulge where they had been, till they had their Lord- ships' permission so to do. In the evening of the 17th they saw land in the. direction of E. In. E. about six leagues distant ; and, during the* fore part of the night, there was a groat, fire or light upon it. At nine o'clock, next day, having little or no wind, they hoisted out a boat, and sent on board one of the two ships before mentioned, which was about two leagues from them ; but they were too impatient after news to regard the distance. Soon after three sail more appeared in sight to windward^, one of which shewed English colours. At one, P. M. the boat returned from on board the Bownkerke Polder, Captain Cornelius Bosch, a Dutch Indiaman from Bengal. Captain Bosch very obligingly offered them sugar, arrack, and whatever he had to spare* They were told by some English seamen on board this ship, that the Adventure had arrived at the Cape of Good Hope twelve months ago, and that the crew of one of ner boats had been murdered and eaten by the people of New Zealand.. On the 19th the English ship bore down tothem.„ She proved to be the True Briton, Captain Broadly, from China. As he di8 not intend to touch at the Cape, the Captain put a letter on board him for the Secretary of the Admiralty. The account which they had heard of the Advert^ ture was mow confirmed to them by this ship. They also got. from on board her, a parcel of old news- papers, which were new to them, and gave them some amusement ; but these were the least favours they received from Capt. Broadlyf With a generosity peculiar to the commanders of the India Company's ships, he sent them fresh provisions, tea, and other articles, which were very acceptable ; and deserve this public acknowledgment. In the afternoon thqy parted Company. The True Briton stood out %q 6i» CAPTAIN COOK'S t--A.^ fica, aiid diey In for the land ; having a frcah rafe at •west. Next day at noon, the 21st of March, the Table Mountain over the Cape Town bore N. E. by E» distant nine or ten leagues- The next morniiig, being with them Wednesday the 22d, but with the people here Tuesday the 21st, they anchored in Table Bay, where they found seve» Tal Dutch ships i some French ; and the C^res, Cap- tain New te, an English East-Iiidia C^oropany's bhip, from China, bomid directly to England, by whom they sent a copy of the preceding part el" thie jour« lud, some charts, and other draM^ngs, to the Admi- ralty* Before they had well got to an anchor, the Captain dispatched an officer to acquaint the Governor with their arrival, and to request the necessairy stores and refreshments, which were readily granted. The Captain now karned that the Adventure had called here, en her return ; and he found a letter from Captain Fumcaux, acquaintmg him with the loss of his boat, and often of his b^st men, in Queen €harlotte*& Sound. He afterwards, on his arrival in £ngland, put into Captain Cook's hands a complete narrative of his uroceedmgs, from the time of their second and hnal separation > an account of which vill be found in the foUowiag pages. ji Com/iendhtis jitcouni of Cafitidn Fwmeaux'A ^farratrve of Mb Proceedrngs^ m the Adventure^ Jrom the Time he was aeharated from the Meaolu^ tion^ to Ma Jirrwal in Mtigiand; including Lieu^ tenant Burney'a Refiort concerning the Boaf» Cren»t who wtre murdered by the MuManta of Queen ChmrtQt(e^9 Sound- IN October, 1773rthey were blown oftthe coast of New 2iealand ; in which Ume they ps^ted com^ painy with the Resolution, and never saw her after-' ^uip^ Thty €omlMiti|^ idtknt storms till the 6tk SECOND VOYAGE. S^ of November ; when beingto the north of Cape Palli-*.^ ; 5er, the wmd at S. W. and blowing strong, they bore^ away for so me buy to complete their water and wood, being in great want of both, having been at ^ the allowance of one quart of water for some days * past i and even that pittance could not be come at,^ above six or seven days longer. They anchored irt » Tolaga Bay. Wood and water are easily to be had^| The natives here are the same as those at Charlotte j. Sound, but more numerous ; and :hey have plen- j ty of cray*fish, which they bought of them for n.iUs. ^' beads, and other trifles, at an easy rate. In one of j' their canoes they observed the head of a woman ly- |k ing in state:, adorned with featliers, and cthei' orna- !J meats* It had the appearance of being alive ; but» on examination, they tou d it dry,, being presei veil with every feature perfect, and kept as the relic oij Rome deceased relation* ,.^ Having got about ten tons of water, atid somq wood, they mailed for Charlotte Sound on the 12th ^.3," but violent weather oblig^-d them to return to t^3^.^ Bay, where they arrived next morning. They no\// r began to fear ihey should never join the Resolution^ havng reason to believe she was in pilx^i lotte Sound^^ and by this time ready for sea* ' : .^y They sailed again on the 16th, and arrived ia^ Charlotte Sound on the 30th. lliey saw nothing of^ the Resolution, and began to doubt he,, safety ; but ' on going ashore, they discerned the place where • she had erected her tents : and, on an old stump of a tree u-x the garden, observed these words cut out^ *' Look onderneath*' There they dug, and sooa** found a bottle corked and waxed down, with a letter in it from Captain Cook, signifying their arrival on the 3d instant, and departure on the 24ih, and that they intended spending a few days hi the entrance of the streighis to look for them. They immediately set about the necessary repaira of the ship, which employed them till the 16th cj-* December. ^ On the 17th they s6nt their large cutter, with Mf- d^hipmiui, and the boat's cxew^ VOL. I, Ee 330 CAPTAm COOK'S ■wild greeh8 for the ship's company ; with orders to return that eveninpj, as they intended to sail the next morning^. But on the boat's not returning the sanrte evening, nor the next morning, the second Lieutenant, Mr. Burney, in the launch, manned with the boat's crew and tun marines, went in search of her. Mr. Inirney returned about eleven o'clock the same night, and informed them of a horrible scene indeed, which cannot be better described than in his own words. " On the 18th, we left the ship ; and having a light breeze in our favour, we soon got round Long Island, and within Long Point. 1 examined every cove; On the larboard hand, as we went along, looking •well all around with a telescope, which 1 took for that purpose. At half past one, we stopped at a beach on the left hatid side going up East Bay, to boil some victuals, as we brought nothing but raw meat with us. Whilst we were cooking, 1 saw an In- dian on the opposite sliore, running along a beach to the head of the bay. Our meat bemg drest, we got into the boat and put off; and, in a short time, ar- rived at the head of this beach, where we saw an Indian settlement* '* As we drew near, some of the Indians Came down on the rock, and waved for us to be gone ; but seeing we disregarded them, they altered their notes. Here we found six la ge canoes hauled up on the beach, most of thenn double ones, and a great many people ; though not so many as one might ex- pect from tiie number of houses and size of the ca- noes. Leaving the boat's crew ia guard the boat, I stepped ashore with the marines (the corporal and live men) and searched a goodm.\ny of their houses, but found nothmg to give me any suspicion. Three or four well-beateti paths led farther into the woods, where were many more houses ; but the people con- tinuing frienaly, I thought it unnecessary to continue our search. Coming down to the beach, one df the Indians had brought a bundle of Ife/iatoes, (long spears) but seeing I looked very earnestly at him, he put them on the ground* and walked about with seeming unconcern. Some of the people appearing SECOND VOYAGE. 331 to be frightened, I gave a looking-glass to one and a large nail to another. From this place the bay ran, as nearly as I could guess, N- N W. a good mile, where it ended in a long sandy beach. I look- ed all around with the glass, but saw no boat, canoe, or any sign of inhabitants- I therefore contented myself with firing some guns, which I had done in every cove as 1 went along. " I now kept close to the east shore, and came to another setth^ment, where the Indians invited us ashore. I inquired of them about tiie boat, but they pretended ignorance. They appeared very friendly here, and sold us some fish. Within an hour after we left this place, in a small beach adjoining* to Grass Cove, we saw a very large double canoe, just hauled up, with two men and a dog- The men, on seeing us, left their canoe, and ran up into the woods. This gave me reason to suspect I should here get tidipgs of the cutter. We went ashore, and search- ed the canoe, where we found one of the rullocfc- ports of the cutter, and some shoes, one of whicih was known to belong to Mr. Woodhouse, one of our midshipmen. One of the people, at the same time, brought me a piece of meat, which he took to be some of the salt meat belon.2:ing to the cutter's crew. On examining this, and smelling to it, 1 found it was fresh. Mr. Fannin (the master) who was with me, supposed it was dog's flesh, and I was of the same opinion ; for I still doubted their being cannibals. But we were soon convinced by the most horrible and undeniable proof. ** A great many baskets (about twenty) lying on the beach tied up, we cut them open. Some were full of roasted flesh, and some uf fern-root, which serves them for bread. On farther search, we found more shc^es, and a hand, which we imme- diately knew to have belonged to Thomas Hill, one of our forecastle men, it being marked T. H. with an Otaheite tattow instrument. I went with some of the people a little way up the woods, but saw nothing else. Coming down again, there was a round spot covered with fresh eartli aboqt four feet diamet^i;*3 333 Captain cook'S iwherc Botnething had been buried. Havinc^ no spade nye begiin to di with a cutJass ; and in the mcun time I I'.iuncUed the canoe with intent t<^ destroy her; but seeing t great smolte a>cending over the near- est hill, 1 got all the people into the boat, and made vhat habte I could to be with them before sun-set. •• On openin^ the next bay, which was Grass Cove, we saw four canoes, o?ip single and three double ont*s, ftncl a great many people on the beach, who.on ourap- pr«)ach, retreated to a small hil!, within a ship's length of th(» water side, where thev stood talking to us. A large fire was on the top of the high land, beyond the woods whence, all the way down the hill, the place was thronged like a fair. As we catne in, 1 ordered a musketoon to be fired at o!)e of the canoes, suspect- ing thev niight be fall of men lying do- n in the bot- tom ; for they were all afloat, but no body was s^en in them. Fhe savages on the little hill still kept hallooing, and making sgns for us to land ; howe- ver, as soon as wc got close in, we all fired llie first volley did not seem to afF^'Ct them muc , but on the second, they began to scramble away as fast as they cnuld, some of them howling. We continu- e^} firing as long as we could see the glimpse of any of them through the bushes. Amongst the Indians w»re two ver* stout men. who never offered to move till they found themselves forsaken bv their compan-* ions ; and then they marched away with gr at com- posure and delil)e ation, their pride not suiffering them to run. One of them however got a fall, and cither lay there, or crawled off on all fours. 1 he other got clear, without anv apparent hirt. I then land (l with the marines, and Mr, FaAnin stayed to guHrd ^he boat- *' On the beach were two bundles of Celery, which had been gathered for loading the cutter. A broken oar was stuck upright in the ground, to which the natives had tied their canoes ; a proof that the at- tack had been made herer 1 then searched all along at the bick of •the beach to see if the cutter was there. We found no )>ivu, but instead of her, such ^ fthocfcing scene ot carnage and barbarity, as can SECOND VOYAGE. 333 npvcr be mentioned or thought of but with horror ; tor the heads, hearts, and iungs of several of our peo*- pie were seen lying on the beach ; and at a little dis« tance, the dogs gnawing their entrails, | •* Whilst we remained ahnost stupified on the spot, Mr. Fannin called tons that he heard the sav- ages gathering together in the woods ; on which I returned to the boat, and hauling along-side the ca- noes, we demolished three of ihem. Whilst this was transacting, the lire on the top of the hill dis- appeared, and we could hear the Indians in the woods at high words; I suppose quarrelling whether or not they should attack us, and try to save their canoes. It now grew dark, I therefore just stepped out, and looked once more behind the beach to see if the cutter had been hauled up in the bushes ; but seeing nothing of her, returned and put off. Our whole force would have been barely sufficient to have gone up the hill ; and to have ventured with half, (for half must have been Lft togu^rdthe boat) would have been fool-hardiness, ^ ** As we opened the upper pait of the sound, we saw a very large fire about three or four miles high^ er up, which formed a complete oval, reaching from the top of a hill down almost to the water-side, the middle space being inclosed all around by the fire, like a hedge. 1 consulted with Mr- Fannin, and wo were both of opinion that we could expect to reap no other advantage than the poor satisfaction of kill- ing some more of the savages. At lertving Grass Cove, we had fired a general volley towards where we heard the Indians talking ; but by going in and out of the boats, the arms had got wet, ^nd fouu pieces missed fire. What was still worse, it began to rain ; our ammunition was more than half ex-r pended, and we left six large canoes behind us in one place. With so ntany disadvantages, I did not think it worth while to proceed, where nothing could be hoped for but revenge. ** Coming between two round islands, situated t Cook returned each salute with an eq\ial number of guns. At day-break in the morning of the 15th of May^ they savy the island of St. Helena at the distance ot fourteen leagues; at midnight, anchored in the road before the town on the N. W» of the island. Governor Skettowe^ and the principal gentlemen of the island, received and treated the Captain, during his stay, with the greatest politeness, by shewing him every kind of civility in their power. Whoever views St, Helena in its present state, and can but conceive what it must have been origi- nally, wiU not hastily charge the inhabitants with ■want of industry ; * tliough perhaps they might ap- ply it to more advantage, were more land appropri- ated to planting of corn, vegetables, roots, 8iC, mstead • In the account §»ven of St Helenn, in the Narrative ofc* Captain Cook's forraei* Voyage, there were some mistakes. |U inhabitants are far horn exercising a wanton cruelty over Iheir slaves ; and they have Ui4 whe^) Qariiag^'S anU ^)crlev'^ t^QU for many yc^^rv- fiECOND VOYAGE. 337 of being iaid out in pasture, which is the present mode- Within these three years a new church has been built ; some other new buildings were in hand ; a commodious lauding- place tor boats has been made ; and several other improvements, which add both strength and beauty to the place. During their stay here, they finished some necessa* ry repau's of ihe ship, which they had not time to do at the Cape. They also filled all their enripty wa- ter-casks ; and the crew were served with fresh beef, purchased at five pence pt- r pound. Their beef is exceedingly good, and is tlie only refreshment they had worth mentioning. On the 21st of May in the evening, the Captain took leave of the Governor, and repaired on board* Upon leaving the shore, he was saluted with thir- teen guns; ind upon getting under sail, with the Dutton ill Company, he was saluted with thirteen more : both of which he returned. After leaving St Helena, the Dutton was order- ed to steer N. \V. by W. or N. W. by compass, in order to avnd falling in with Asc* nsion ; at which island, it was said, an illicit trade was carried on be* tween the officers of the Ii » Company's ships and some vessels from N(.rth /i vica. They kept company with this ship till the 'z- when after putting a packet on board her for the Admir dty, they parted ; she continuing her course to the N. VV. In the morning of the 28th, they made the " land ; and the same evening anchored in Cross Hay on the N. W. side, in tenf ithrms water. They remaii ed here till the evening of the 31st, and notwithhta .ing thev had several parties out every night, they got but twentv-four turtles, it being rather too late in the season ; however, as they weighed between four and five hundred poimds each, they were pretty well off. They might have had a T>lentitul supply offish in general; especially of that son called Old Wix'es ; but the catching of them was not attended to^ the object being turtle. 538 CAPTAilT COOK'S The island of Asc nsion is about ten miles in lenw, to settle its situation ; but as they found the wind would not let them fetch it, they steered for the island of Fernando de Noronha on the coast of Brazil, in order to determine its longitude. In their passage to Fernando de Noronha, they had steady fresh gales between the S. E. and E^S. E. attended with fair and clear weather. On the 9th of June at noon, they made that place, distance six or seven leagues. It appeared in de- tached and peaked hill«, the largest of which looked like a church tower or steeple. Whpn they arriv- ed in the road, a gun being fired from one of the forts, the Portuguese colours were displayed, and the example was followed by all the other forts. As the purpose for which Captain Cook made the island was answered, viz. to ascertain the longitude, they stood away without landing, with a gale E. S. E* This road seems to be well sheltered from the south and east winds. One of the seamen had been onboard a Dutch India ship, who put in at this isle in her way out, in 1770. They were very sickly, and in want of refreshments and water. The Portu- guese supplied them with some buffaloes and fowls ; and they watered behind one of the beaches in a lit- tle pool, which was hardly big enough to dip a buc- ket in. At seven o'clock in the evening on the 18th the calm was succeeded by a breeze at east, which, the next day, increasing and veering to, and fixing ,at N. E. they stretched to N- W- with their tacks on 340 CAPTAIN C00K*3 board. They made no doubt ih^it they had now p;ot the N. E. tr:ide wind, as it was attended with fnit "weather, except now and then some light sho^^e^s of rain ; and as they advanced to the north the wind Increased, and blew a frtsh top-gallant gale. On the2i:it of June, the Captain ordered the still to be fitted to the largest copper, which held about sixty -four gallons. 1 he fire was lightened at four o'clock in the niornin,^, and at ?>>l<edding, clothes, &c. constantly clean and dry. Equal care was taken to keep the ship clean and dry, betwixt decks* Once or twice » 344 CAPTAIN COOK'S, uc. Vfetk she was aired with fires ; and when this couM not be done, she was sn)6ked witli giin*powder, mixed with vinegar or water. They had also, fi-e- quently, a fire made in an iron pot, at the bottom o£ the well, which was of great use in purifying the air in the lower purts of the ship. To this, and to cleanliness, as well in the ship as amongst tiie peo- ple, too great attention cannot be paid ; the least neglect occasions a putrid and disagreeable smell below, which nothing but fires will remove. Captain Cooic concludes liis account of this his second voyage round the world as follows : *• It doth not become me to say how far the prin- cipal objects of our voyage have been obtained^ Though it hath not abounded with remarkable events, nor been diversified by sudden transitions of fortune ; though my relation of it has been njorc employed in tracing our course by sea, than in re- cording our operations on shore; this, perhaps, is a circumstance from which the curious reader may in- fer, that the purposes for which we were sent into the southern heqiisphere, were diligently aiKl effcc* tually pursued* Had we found oiit a continent tliere, we might have been better enabled 'to gratify curi- osity ; but we hope our not having found it, aftej* all our persevering researches, will leave less room for future speculation about unknown worlds remaining to be explored. " But whatever may be the public judgment about other matters, it is with real satisfaction, and with- out claiming any merit but of attention to my duty,* that I can conclude this account with an observation, which facts enable me to make, that pur having dis- covered the possibility of preserving health amongst a numerous ship's company, for such a length of time, in such varieties of climate, and amidst such continued hardships and fatigues, will make this voyage remarkable in the opinion of every benevo- lent person, when the disputes about a Southern Continent shall have ceased to engage the attentioOi And to divide the judgment of Pliilosophers." BNP Of CAPTAIN COOK'S SiECOND YOYAOB. m cooM iwder, 0, ti'e- tom of ig the uul to e peo- e least amcU }fc. . ^.i-s* bis his e prin- itained. irkable tions of n njorc [\ in re- ps, is a may ia- ;nt into A efi'ec- ittliere, [fy curi" aftei* all 00 m tor main'mg nt about nd with- i\y duty,' ervationt Lving dis- amongst length of ;dst such ^ake this / benevo- Southern attention, m^ % U-: J: '/ •■•• ^*,i. ->> ; .1 (, '??;,^.vii. >--«w, '.,.!( :W i'i H' m:: itrT^^ ,^^. "/ * . f =?.■ -ffc-.i'ct :^'>^*■ ^^|¥- '^ -,* f' ;j?**" k h QZ»